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.TERNATJi.;:.'.' ^O'.AR ExPF.IHTION.

REPORT

• ■V THE

PktKi.i,,

hUxithlStatkI-xpedition

I.A!)V riv'-

!!,\V. (.KIXXHLL LAND,

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' ".) I S C, VON:

^ , I N '. 1 K r I CE.

I S .S 8 .

International Polar Expedition.

REPORT

ON IHE

Proceedings of the United States Expedition

LADY FRANKLIN BAY, GRINNELL LAND,

ADOLPHUS W. GREELY,

First lieutenant, fifth cavalry, acting signal officer and
assistant, commanding the expedition.

VOLUME I.

WASHI NGTON:

GOVERNMKNT I'RINTING OFFICE.
1888.

i^^ndi^i^^^a^.A>

(

In the House of Representatives, yune 17, 1886.
Resolved by the House of Representatives [the Senate concurring, That 4,500 copies, with the necessary
illustrations, be printed of the Report on the Proceedings of the International Polar Expedition to Lady
Franklin Bay, Grinnell Land, by First Lieutenant A. W. Greely, Fifth Cavalry, United States Army, Acting
Signal Officer; 1,250 copies of which shall be for use of the Senate, 2,500 copies for use of House, and
750 copies for distribution by the Signal Office to foreign libraries and Arctic explorers.
(II)

CONTE NTS

(V01.UME I.)

Reporter the commanding officer . . . — I

APPENDICES.

1. War Department order assigning Lieutenant Grcel/ to command 97

2. War Department order organizing the expedition - -. 97

3. Instructions from the Signal Office reganling the etpedition 98

4. List of commissary subsistence stores, with rcmarlts thereon 108

5. Records left at and taken from Southeast Gary Island, August, 1881 109

6. Lieutenant Kislingbury's report of trip to Life Boat Cove no

7. Records taken fr n and left at Washington Irving Island, August, l88l ,_ no

8. Records obtainr at Discovery Harbor, August I, 1881 in

9. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on Water-course Bay, August, 1881 _ n>

10. Lieutenant Kislingbury's re(|uest to be relieved, with Lieutenant Greely's indorsement na

1 1 . Orders No. 5, relieving Lieutenant Kislingbury and ordering him to report to the Chief Signal Ofticer nj

12. Orders No. 6 amending Orders No. 5 nj

Ij. Lieutenant Kislingbury's request for modification of Orders No. 6 . n4

14. Onlers No. 8 modifying Orders No. 6 n4

15. Lieutenant Lockwood's n!port on exploration of St. Patrick Valley n4

16. Sergeant Brainard's report establishing Depot B near Cape Beechey ns

17. Sergeant Jewell's meteorological report in connection with trip establishing Depot B 117

18. Sergeant Gardiner's report of trip to Cape Murchison n9

19. Sergeant Linn's report on moving Depot A to Cap* Murchison n9

20. Orders to Dr. Pavy for overland journey to Lincoln Bay 120

21. Report of Dr. Pavy on trip to Lincoln Bay 121

22. Report of Lieutenant Lockwood on journey to the Bellows 124

23. Orders to Dr. Pavy on exploring Archer Fiord . . 126

24. Report of Dr. Pavy on attempted trip down Archer Fiord . 126

25. Report of Lieutenant Lockwood on sledge journey to Depot B near Cape Beechey 127

26. Report of Sergeant Rice on sledge journey to Depot B, near Cai>e Beechey ■ 129

27. Onlers to Dr. Pavy to proceed to Cape Joseph Henry . 130

28. Report of Dr. Pavy on trip towards Cape Joseph Henry _ 131

29. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on St. Patrick Valley 133

30. Sergeant Rice's report on camp equipage 134

31. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders to attempt crossing of Robeson Channel 134

32. Lieutenant Loclcwood's report on attempted crossing of Robeson Channel 135

33. Dr. Pavy's orders for journey to Wrangel Bay 138

34. Dr. Pavy's report on journey to Wrangel Bay ..., 139

35. Dr. Pavy's supplementary report under Appendices 27 and 33 141

36. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders for preliminary journey to Cape Beechey . . 14a

37. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on journey ordered in Appendix No. 36 . ... 143

(HI)

JV APPENDICES.

38. Lieutenant Ixickwood's orders for journey to Thank God Harl)or 144

39. Lieutenant Lockwood'i report on journey ordered in Appendix No. 38 . 144

40. English records obtained at Thank Gud Harltor .. . 149

41. Dr. Pavy's orders to carry provisions to Greenland coast 156

43. Dr. Pavy's report on journey ordered in Appendix No. 41 156

43. Sergeant Brainard's orden to move boat to Greenland coast 158

44. Sergeant Brainard's report on trip ordered in Appendix No. 43 . 159

45. Sergeant Jewell's report on trip to Lincoln Bay while supporting Dr. Pavy 163

46. Dr. Pavy's orders for journey northward over Polar Ocean 165

47. Dr. Pavy's report on journey ordered in Appendix No. 46 166

48. Sergeant Rice's report on detached trip from Lincoln Bay to Fort Conger and return 178

49. Private Long's re|K>rt on trip into Archer Fiord - 179

50. Sergeant Israel's report on trip into the Bellows 181

51. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders to explore north coast of Greenland i8a

52. Supplementary instructions for exploration of north coast of Greenland 183

53. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on exploration of north coast of GreenLind . 185

54. Report of Private Biederbick's trip into Black Rock Vale . 233

55. Sergeant Linn's report of trip into Black Rock Vale — 233

5O. Lieutenant Lockwood's report of launch trip up Archer Fiord .. 234

57. Lieutenant Lockwootl's report of launch trip up Chandler Fiord 236

58. Dr. Pavy's orders to proceed to Carl Ritter Bay 237

59. Sergeant Elison's reiwrt of trip to Carl Ritter Bay 237

60. Sergeant Brainard's report of trip to Carl Ritter Bay 239

61. Orders establishing day of "Thanksgiving" 242

62. Dr. Pavy's letter of March 8, 1883 242

63. Lieutenant Grecly's answer to Dr. Pavy's letter of March 8, 1883 243

64. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders for preliminary journey northward, 1883 243

65. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on journey ordered in Appendix No. 64 244

66. Sergeant Jewell's report to Lieutenant Lockwood relative to journey ordered in Apjiendix No. 64 246

67. Orders to Lieuten-int Lockwood for exploration of Greenland, 1883 247

68. Sergeant Rice's orders for journey to Thank God Harbor 248

69. Dr. Pavy's orders for journey, as surgeon, to Thank God Harbor 248

70. Lieutenant Lockwood's rejxjrt on trip to North Greenland . 249

71. Sergeant Jewell's report on tidal and meteorological observations made on trip to North Greenland 255

72. .Sergeant Rice's report on trip to Thank God Harbor 259

73. Dr. Pavy's medical rejiort on trip to Thank God Harbor ... 264

74. Orders for Sergeant Jewell for tidal observations at Cape Beechey . 264

75. Rejiort of Sergeant Jewell on tidal observations at Cape Beechey ... 264

76. Orders for Sergeant Gardiner for tidal observations at Cape Baird , 265

77. Orders for Sergeant Israel for astronomical observations at Cape Baird ,. 266

78. Report of Sergeant Israel on observations ordered in Appendix No. 77 266

79. Rcixjrt of Sergeant Gardiner on tidal and ice observations at Cai)e Baird 268

80. RejKirt of Sergeant Jewell on paleocrystic ice . 268

81. Orders to Sergeant Jewell for tidal observations at Cape Beechey . , . . 269

82. Report of Sergeant Jewell on tidal observations at Ch\k Beechey 269

83. Sergeant Brainard's report on journey to Cape Cracroft 270

84. Sergeant Gardiner's report on journey to Cape Cracroft 272

85. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders to cross Grinnell Land . 274

86. Lieutenant Ix)ckwood's report on the crossing of Grinnell Land 274

87. Orders to Dr. Pavy relative to natural history data . 297

88. Orders to Dr. Pavy relative to botanical specimens 297

89. Orders to Lieutenant Lockwood to relieve Dr. Pavy as naturalist 298

90. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on natural history specimens received from Dr. Pavy 298

9 1 . Lieutenant Lockwood's letter and report on natural history specimens, June 30, 1 883 300

92. Sergeant Brainard's report on Lieute.iant Lockwood's trip towards the United States Mountain range 317

93. Orders to Lieutenant Lockwood to receive medical stores from Dr. Pavy 319

94. Letter of Dr. Pavy asking the detail of Steward Biederbick 320

95. Reply of Lieutenant Greely to Dr. Pavy's request for detail of Steward Biederbick 320

96. Letter of Dr. Pavy's, dated July 18, 1883 320

97. Answer to letter referred to in Appendix No. 96 . . . . . . 321

98. Dr. Pavy's refusal to turn over his diary . „ . . ...... -...........-., ...,,.... 321

APPENDICES.

Pao-

99. Letter tniumiiting chargcx to Dr. P«vy 3JI

100. Letter limiting br. Pavy's bounili while in arrest 333

101. Order for the abandonment of station at Fort Conger... 333

loj. List of lubsistence stores abandoned - 333

103. Medical reports . .... — . 334

104. Record left at Cape Baird 350

105. Records left in abandoned boats ........ ..................... 3$l

106. Records found on Urevoort Island (deposited by Lieutenant Uarlington and Trivate Beebe) 351

107. Plan of winter quarters, Camp Clay I'acc jiage 354

108. Sergeant Frederick's report of November journey to Cape Isabella........ 354

109. Lieutenant Kislingbury's letter, February I9, 1884...... ...... . . 356

no. Private Long's journey into Hayes Sound . . . 357

111. Sergeant Frederick's report of journey to Baird Inlet, April, 1884 . 358

112. Lieutenant Kislingbury's letter, April 22, 1884 361

113. Letter of Dr. Pavy's, April 25, 1884 361

114. Letter of Dr. Pavy, April 27, 1884 _ 36a

115. Lieutenant Greely's certificate to Dr. Pavy . 363

Ik6. General certificate to Dr. Pavy 363

117. Letter of Lieutenant Greely on Dr. Pavy . 363

118. Order for Private Henry's execution . 363

119. Report of Private Henry's execution. . 363

120. Letter of Secretary of War approving Lieutenant Greely's course regarding execution of PrivaK Henry 364

131. List of deaths 365

122. Order relative to Private Henry, dated June 5, 1884 365

123. Lieutenant Lockwood's journal from August 3, 1883 366

124. Sergeant Brainard's journal from besetment 441

135. Portion of diary of Private Roderick R. Schneider, found on bank of Mississippi River, in Missouri, and corre-
spondence relating thereto with Mr. J. A. Ockerson 529

126. Description of drift-wood 534

1 27. List of photographs and description of Eskimo relics in photographic plates 535

128. List of maps and charts . . 536

Index to Vol. I... 537

ILLUSTRATIONS.

(Volume I.)

FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS,

(Engraved by the Moss Engraving Company from photographs by Svrgt. (ieorge W. Rice, photographer of the Expedition.)

Our house at G>nger (west side), March, 1882 Frontispiece.

Face page.

Godhavn, Greenland, July 19, 1881 -. 1

Ritenbenk, Greenland, July 21, 1881 2

Proven, North Greenland, July, 1881.. 4

IJanish Eskimo at Proven, North Greenland 4

Site of Polaris House, occupied in 1872, at Life Boat Cove, July, 1881 6

Proteus in ice, entrance to Discovery Harbor, August 12, l88r._ 6

Musk-cattle killed on Ml. Cartmel, near Conger, August 12, 1881 8

Head of musk-ox killed near Conger 8

Coal mine. Water-course Ravine, with reflected image 12

View of ice from Cape Murchison, looking towards Thank God Harbor, June, 1882 29

Musk calves, October, 1882. Captured near Conger, June, 1882. Uy Seigeant Frederick 30

Floeberg in St. Patrick Bay, June, 1882 44

Pressed-up Floelierg, Breakwater Point, I^dy Franklin Hay, June, 1 882 : - - 44

Chandler Fiord, looking westward; Ida Bay to extreme left 236

l*aleocrystic ice in Robeson Channel 246

Tide-gauge at Cape Baird (from a sketch by Sergeant Gardiner) 268

Eskimo relics found in vicinity of Fort Conger. PI. I 536

Eskimo relics found at junction of Lake Hazen and Ruggles River, June, 1882. PI. II 536

Eskimo relics found at and in vicinity of Basil Norris and Sun Bays. Pi. HI 536

Eskimo relics; greater number found south side of Lake Hazen, June, 1882. PI. IV . 536

Eskimo relics found at Cape Baird. PI. V 536

Modem Greenland and ancient Eskimo sled. PI. VI 536

Arctic Highlander from Cape York (from a photograph by Relief Expedition) 536

Arctic Highlanders from North Star Settlement, Saunders Island (from a photograph by Relief Expedition) 536

ILLUSTRATIONS GROUPED IN PLATES.
(Engraved by the Moss Engraving Company from sketches by Lieut. James B. Lockwood.)

Pl. I. — Cape Britannia 188

Victoria Inlet, from near Cape Britannia . . 188

>v Beaumont Island, from near Cape Britannia 188

Stephenson Island, from Cape Britannia . 188

Beaumont Island, from Cape Britannia... . 188

Pl. IL — Elison Island _ 188

View looking into Chipp Inlet , . 188

Cape Alexander Ram'ay . ... 188

Shoe [Mary Murray] Island ....... 188

Farthest Point beyond [to the east] Shoe [Mary Murray] Island .......,.,..._...,,....... 188

(VIM

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Plate 1 1

Fig.

Fic.

Plate II

FU!.

Fic

Plate III:

Fic

Fkj.

Fic

Fin.

lO.

Plate IV:

Fic

II.

Fic

12.

Fic

13-

Fig.

14.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Vim page.

Face of glacier above Emma Bay (from tent), April 30, 1883 278

Flank view of same, from southeast comer, May i, 1883 .. 278

M»r<leGlace," Chinese Wall," just west of "Divide," looking east (at Lake Harry), May 18,1883 ^7*

Mer lie Glace, " Chinese Wall," where first approached, just east of Camp XI, May 10,1883 ^7^

Glacier " Floebert;," head of Greely Fiord (Antoinette Bay), May 13, 1883 . 278

Offshoot of the Mer de Glace (the same as Fig. 8), near head of lake between Camps XII and XIII,

May 12, 1883 278

(JUcier " F"loel)erg," at glacier at head of Greely Fiord, May 13, 1883 .. 278

Glacier entering valley. May 12, 1883 278

I.ake, glacier, and mountains, from west end of lake, C.imp XIII, May 12, 1883 278

Glacier and cliffs, from east end of lake, May 12, 1883 278

View to the west from head of fiord. May 13, 1883 278

Vii V to the west from " Farthest," May 14,1883 278

Farthest land on South Side, May 15, 1883 __ _ 278

Head of fiord from "Farthest", May 14, 1883 ^ 278

ILLUSTRATION? IN THE TEXT.

(Engraved by the Moss Engraving Comiiany from sketches.)

P«ge.

Coast of fiord easi of .Stephen-son Island. (From a sketch by Lieutenant Lockwood) . . 202

Coast ahead from camp beyond Britannia. (From a sketch by Lieutenant Lockwood) . 203

"Farthest," from the west. (From a sketch by Lieutenant Lockwood) 207

Next Point beyond "Farthest." (From a sketch by Lieutenant Lockwood) 208

Parhelia. (From a sketch by Lieutenant Lockwood) 210

Floeberg, at Cape Baird, showing stratification. (From a sketch by Sergeant Gardiner) 273

Section of face of glacier. (From a sketch by Lieutenant Lockwood) 282

Plan of winter quarters at Camp Clay. (From a sketch by Lieutenant Greely) . . Face page 354

Plan of winter quarters at Camp Clay. (From a sketch by Lieutenant Ixickwood) 394

Orift-wood; limb of a cedar. (From a .sketch by Lieutenant Greely) 534

Drift-wood; branch of c pine. (From a sketch by Lieutenant Greely) 534

LIST OF MAPS AND CHARTS.

Face page.

Map of country immediately surrounding Fort Conger . 10

Map showing ift, travel, and exploration of the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition from besetment, August 26, 1883,

until rescued, June 22, 1884; showing also discoveries in Buchanan Strait 58

Chart of North Greenland coast, accompanying re|K)rt by Lieutenant Lockwood of sledge journey, April 3 to June I,
1882, showing discoveries and route from Fort Conger to Ix>ckwood Island and return ; also showing the route of

preliminary journey in March 186

Chart showing excursion of steam-launch La<(i' Greely during the summer of 1882 236

Chart showing route of sledge expedition, March 27 to April 12, 1883 . 253

Map of Grinnell Land ... . At end of volume.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

REPORT OF THH COMMANDING OFPICI-R.

Washington, D. C, ///«<• 30, 1885.
The Chief Signal Officer of the Army:

Sir: I have the honor to make the following report of the proceediujjs of the Lady
Franklin Bay expedition, which I had the honor to command:

The station on the shore of Lady Franklin Bay was established for work of scientific
observations and exploration, inider the provisions of the acts . '" Congress approved May i,

1880, and March 3, i88r. In its scientific work it formed one of the circnmpolar international
stations, which grew out of the exertions of Lieut. Cliarles Weyprecht, Austrian Navy, and
which were finally determined upon by the International Polar Conferences of Hamburg,
Berne, and St. Petersburg. Eleven nations participated in this great work, and fourteen
stations were occupied, three of which were in the southern hemisphere.

I was assigned to the connnand of the Lady Franklin Bay expedition by the Honorable
the Secretary of War, March 11, 1881, in accordance with the instructions of the President.
(Appendix No. i.) The formal order under which was organized the expedition to establish
the station, was General Orders No. 35, War Department, A. O. O., April 12, 1881. (Ap-
pendix No. 2.) In accordance with that order the steam sealer Proteus, having been inspected
and favorably reported on by Lieut. J. F. Merry, U. S. N. , was hired for the transportation of
the party from St. John's, Newfoundland, to Lady Franklin Bay. Second Lieut. Frederick
F. Kislingbury, Eleventh Infantry, and Second Lieut. James B. Lockwood, Twenty-third
Infantry, were detailed for duty with the expedition, and twenty-one enlisted men, who were
either selected volunteers from the Army, or specially enlisted, were also ordered to report to
me. The surgeon. Octave Pavy, M. D., who had been contracted with for a similar expedi-
tion in 1880, was to join the party in Greenland.

Lieutenant Kislingbury with two enlisted men sailed from New York about June i, 1881,
to superintend the proper .stowing of the cargo, which wa.s to be done in accordance with
special instructions given him by me. Lieutenant Lockwood sailed from Baltimore June 14,

1881, in charge of the greater number of the party, taking with him the steam-launch which
had been kindly furnished the expedition through the courtesy of the Honorable the Secretary
of the Navy.

I sailed with the scientific observers on June 21 from New York, and the entire party
assembled at St. John's, Newfoundland, June 27, except Sergeant Rice, the photographer,
who, having been sent through Canada with the expectation of obtaining additional foot-gear
for the expedition, was delayed until July 2. On July 4 the party took quarters on board
the Proteus, which dropped her anchor in the harbor awaiting certain necessary stores.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

The expedition at that time consisted of the officers and men named in Appendix No. 3,
except Private Roderick R. Schneider, who replaced Corporal Grimm, a deserter. The
general scientific and other instnictions for the pariv are to be found in the same appendix
(No. 3).

Ample field supplies and medical stores had been furnished by the Surgeon-General, and
a stock of regixlation clothing and camp equipage through the Quartermaster-General. A
liberal and excellent supply of arms and ammunition, both service and special, was provided
through the courtesy of the Chief of Ordnance. The Chief of Engineers furnished such
scientific instruments as he could spare, and these were supplemented to a certain extent by
loans from the Superintendent of the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey. Subsistence
stores, well packed and of excellent quality, were furnished for .sale by the Commissary-
General of Subsistence. These connnissary stores were furnished under the supervision of
Maj. John P. Hawkins, in accordance with the special instructions of the Comniissar>'-General
of Subsistence, and I have deemed it my duty to submit in Appendix No. 4 a list of the
articles, with comments on their quality and condition.

Less than $6,000 of the original appropriation remained after the charter of the vessel,
with which to supplement the supplies of the expedition with articles indispensable for Arctic
service, which were not within the province of the regular supply departments of the Army. ^
While the stxni was insufficient to provide the articles requisite for complete comfort and sat-
isfaction, yet careful consideration and rigid economy enabled me to purcha.se everything
absolutely essential to health and success. Boats, total supply of coal, spirits, and lime-juice
formed no inconsiderable part of these indispensable purchases. The expeditionary supplies
were in almost inextricable confusion on my arrival at St. John's, and to have re-.stowed
them would have entailed an expense of money and time which could not be spared. It
was also a.scertained beyond a doubt, that the boiler of the navy launch was entirely unsuited
to use in salt water, and it became necessary to replace it at St. John's, at the expeditionary
expense, by a boiler of another pattern.

During our enforced stay at St. John's, this expedition, like its predecessors, was indebted
for valuable a.ssistance and advice to Mr. Thomas N. Molloy, United States consul.

The last stores came on the morning of July 7, and at noon we pa.ssed the narrows of St.
John's, to remain for three years without direct communication from the outside world.

The harbor of Godhavn, Greenland, was reached 9 p. m. July 16. The voyage was made
in the face of continual adverse winds, with cloudy or foggy weather. Two strong northerly
gales were experienced, during which the ship behaved admirably. No ice was .seen south of
Cape Farewell, except a few icebergs off the east coast of Newfoundland to the north of Funk
Island. A thin pack of stream ice was fallen in with off the Greenland coast the evening of
July 12, in 61° 30' N., 53° 30' W., and was passed through in about four hours. A second
|)ack was met with the next day in 62° 30' N., 53° 15' W., and was passed through in an
hour. Neither stream of ice offered atiy obstruction to free passage, or caused the slightest
delay. Both packs consisted of ice-floes varying from one to eiglit feet above the water.
These floes originall\- formed part of the Spitzbergen Ice Stream, a portion of which, after
reaching Cape Farewell from the east coast of Greenland, is carried by the southerly current
into Davis Strait. Along the lower Greenland coast only occasionally icebergs were seen,
but in Disco Bay over a hundred were in sight at one time.

The expedition received at (iodhavn official and personal courtesies from Herr Krarup
Smith, royal inspector of North Greenland. He delayed for a day his departure on an official
inspecting toiir to Proven and Upernivik, in order to ascertain what he could do for tlie expe-
dition. Hcpromi.sed all possible aid and assistance from the other Danish officials. I learned
from him that the winter of i88o-'8i, except a brief period of cold in March, had been one
of marked and unusual mildness in Greenland.

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§?

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

The expedition procured at Godhavn twelve dogs and a large quantity of dog-food and
some seal-skins. A auantity of mattak (the skin of the white whale, a valuable anti-scorbutic)
and a few articles of fur-clothing were obtained by barter — the only possible manner. The
wife of Inspector Smith and Mr. Fleischer, the chief trader at Godhavn, were of material
assistance in this matter. The remains of the house purchased in 1880, which was stored at
this point, were taken on board, as also some 3,000 pounds of Hudson Bay pemmican, which
had been placed at my disposal by H. W. Howgate.

One set of time observations were obtained at the only hours during which the sun shone
while the vessel was at Godhavn.

On July 20, Dr. Octave Pavy, having reported, was contracted with as acting assistant
surgeon of the expedition.

The usual courtesies were shown the expedition at Godhavn and other Greenland ports.

The Proteus left Godhavn the morning of the 21st and reached Ritenbenk, Greenland,
the same day. At this point nine dogs, dog-food, seal-skins, and other minor articles, which
had been collected for the expedition through the energetic efforts of Dr. Pavy, were pur-
chased. Here also Mr. Henry Clay joined the expedition, in the position of Signal Service
employ^.

A fog delaying our departure. Lieutenant Lockwood, with a party, was sent for birds to
Arveprins Island, near by, where he obtained sixty-five guillemot {Alca arra).

The spring of 1881 at Ritenbenk had been the most forward one for years.

The Proteus left Ritenbenk the afternoon of July 22, and, passing through Waigat Strait,
anchored on the 24th at Upernivik, having been delayed by fog nearly ten hours just off the
harbor.

To my disappointment, skin-clothing could not be obtained at Upernivik, except by a
delay of ten days or two weeks. Fortunately, ten suits which had been made by order of
the Danish Government for the use of the observers of the proposed international station
at Upernivik, in i882-'83, were on hand, and were purchased through the intervention of
Inspector Smith. The two Eskimo who were recommended for service with the expedition
were living at Proven, some fifty miles to the south, and in consequence it was necessary to
put the steam-launch Lady Greely into the water for the trip. A severe storm prevented
her immediate departure; but before it had entirely abated, Lieutenant Lockwood started
southward on the 24th, taking a circuitous route next the mainland and inside the many
islands, in consequence of the heavy weather. He was accompanied by Mr. Elberg, the chief
trader of Upernivik, in whose district Proven was situated.

On the 24th and 25th, Lieutenant Kislingbury, with a party, was sent in the whale-boat
to the loomery near Sanderson's Hope. They obtained four hundred and twenty guillemot
which were dried for use at Discovery Harbor.

Lieutenant Lockwood returned on the 28th from Proven, bringing back, for service with
the expedition, two Eskimo, Jens Edward and Frederik Thorlip Christiansen. They were
formally contracted with the same day. He reported that the launch behaved admirably,
both as a sea-boat and when under steam. He killed one hundred and twenty-seven guillemot
during his trip. He also succeeded in securing a considerable quantity of skin-clothing, part
of which, though second hand, was very serviceable. Sergeant Rice accompanied the party to
Proven and made several negatives at that point.

Fortunately for the interests of the expedition, Inspector Smith was again met with at
Upernivik, and it was through his marked interest and kindly influence that the service of the
natives and so good a stock of all needed articles were secured. He informed me that the
winter of i88o-'8i at Upernivik had been very mild, and the spring a very forward one;
in fourteen years Upernivik had never been so green. Reports from Tasiusak were to the
effect that the ice had broken up very early and had entirely disappeared.

4 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Ten dogs, addUional dog-food, sledge-fittings, dog-harness, and seal-skins were bonglit
from Mr. Rlberg, at Upernivik. The dogs so pnrchased proved to be diseased, and through
contagion from them two-thirds of our draught animals eventually died.

At 7 p. m., July 29, the pilot was discharged about three miles west of Upernivik. After
running northward a few hours, I decided to take the "Middle Passage" across Melville Bay,
as there was no ice in sight except a few .scattered berg.s. Land was sighted at 4 a. ni. of the
31st, and at 7 a. m. the engines were stopped, as the dead reckoning placed the ves.sel six
miles south of Cape York. Dense fog prevented any land from being .seen until an hour
later, when, the fog lifting a few minutes, land was found to be about five miles distant.
Nothing in the shape of a pack was encountered in Baffin Bay, but in alwni 75° N., 64° \V.,
ice was seen a considerable distance to the westward, but whether it was a close or open pack
was uncertain.

Of all favorable passages across Melville Bay, this is the most remarkable; but thirty-six
hours from Upernivik to Cape York. The y1/rr/ ran acro.ss in seventy-two hours, the Polaris
in forty hours (from Tasiu.sak), and the veteran whaler, Capt. William Adams, in 1873, as
early as June 9, crossed in seventy-two hours. Though the Middle Pack is much feared by
the most experienced navigators, yet its terrors have been much diminished since the use of
steam. There seems to be but little doubt it can be pa.s.sed without trouble alnmst any year
late in July or August. The wlialers passing Melville Bay in June necessarily follow the
land ice.

A polar bear {Urstis maritimus) and a seal {Phoca barhatd) were killed on small detached
floes in Baffin Bay. The vessel lay-to July 31 on account of foggj- weather. Several soundings
and serial temperature observations were made, which, together with others made during the
journey north, form Appendix No. 104.

AUGUST, 1881.

The fog lifted the iflorning of August i, at which time wc were off Petowik Glacier,
.southeast of Cape Atholl. Along these shores were small patches of snow, of a dirty reddish
color, which were without doubt the reddish snow of the "Crimson cliffs" of Sir John Ross.
We took a course westward from Wolstenholnie Island, and sighted the Cary group at 3. 10
p. m. A party landed on the southeast island at 6 p. m. to examine the cache made by Sir
George Nares in 1875. With Lieutenant Lockwood, I examined the provisions, and found
them in generally good condition, except a certain portion of the bread, which was eatable,
though somewhat moldy. The whale-boat was in serviceable condition. The cache evi-
dently had not been disturbed since it was landed, six years before. At the same time. Dr.
Pavy obtained from a cairn on the summit of the island a record left by Sir Allen Young in
i875-'76. A copy of the records obtained and left form Appendix No. 5. Sergeant Rice,
with considerable difficulty, obtained a photograph of the cairn, which is at the very summit
of the island, some five hundred feet above the sea.

On the island was found a worn oar and a number of other pieces of drift-wood, among
which was a charred piece of ornamental work (possibly of the figure-head) of a ship which had
been burned. The whaler Xanthns was burned about five miles north of Tasiusak in 1880.
If, as is probable, this was from the Xanthus^ it is interesting as showing a southeast surface
current to extend occasionally that far to the north. Such a current from the southea.st was
experienced by us all day of July 31 off the coast, near Cape Dudley Digges. This fragment
was of an old vessel, as the original red and yellow paint had been afterwards overlaid with
a coat of white.

Cape Alexander was passed about 10 a. m. of the 2d, and at i p. m. we anchored south of
Littleton Island. A careful and exhaustive search was made by me for seven hours, before

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THE LADY FRANKMN BAY EXPEDITION. ' 5

the Arctic mail on IJttlctoii Islam), landed by Sir Allen Yonnjj, in 1H76, for the Kn^lish exjje-
dition, was fonml. The seven packages of mail were later sent back by the l^olcus^ to Ik*
returned throngh the proper channels to ilie Admiraltv in I<ondon. Dnrin^; the search a large
nnmber of cairns -.vere fonnd, all of which were empty, except two, which contained records
from the steani-whalcr /:>/<•, Capt. J. B. Walker, dated June 20, 1876. The cairn erected
by Sir (Icorjje Nares was found open and empty, and had probably Ix'cn plundered by the
Eskimo, as part of the London Standard^ of an unknown date in 1875, was fonnd by me in
the snow on the west side of the island.

While I was engaged in searching for the mail, Lieutenant I,Kx:kwood with a party landed
over six tons of coal as a depot for fuel for possible future use. It was on low grotmd alxiut
twenty feet above the sea, on the extreme southwest side of Littleton Island, in sight of Cape
Alexander.

Lieutenant Kislingbury, with Dr. Pavyand a party, visited Life Boat Cove to communicate
with the Etah Eskimo, if any could be found, and to examine the Polaris winter qttarters of
i872-'73. The transit instrument was fonnd alwut twenty feet from the cairn in which it was
originally deposited. Nothing remained of Ihlan's house, but the ground was covered with
various articles of iron and other metals, which are well shown by the photographs taken by
Sergeant Rice, who also made several other negatives in the neighlwrhood. Lieutenant
Kislingbury's report forms Appendix No. 6.

None of the Eskimo had lx:cn .seen in our northward journey, although a close watch had
been kept on the coast from Cape Dudley Digges to Wolstenholine Island, and from Cape Chalon
north. It was evident that none had lived at Life Boat Cove within the year, and probably
not within three or four years.

The wheel of the I^otcus needed some repairs and delayed us until 1 1 p. m. of August 2.
The weather on leaving was fair with no ice in sight, and in consequence I did not dare to
sjjend time for the examination of the two hundred and forty rations at Cape Sabine, but
ordered the captain to make direct for Cape Hawks, which was reached 9 a. m. August 3.

The /Vfl/*7/j lay-to just north of Cape Hawks, while I with Lieutenant Kislingbury exam-
ined the English depot of 1875, and sent Lieutenant Lockwood and Dr. Pavy to Washington
Irving Island. The jolly-boat was found in good condition, and was taken by me, as I was short
of boats. It was named the Valorous^ from H. M. ship to which it originally belonged. Two
barrels of pickles, two barrels of stearine, a barrel of preserved potatoes, and two kegs partly
full of rum were found in excellent condition. There was a large quantity of bread, some of
which had evidently moulded owing to the casks being left in a depression of the rock where
melting snow collected in summer. Three cans of potatoes and a keg of piccalilli, and the
part of keg of rum were taken, and the remaining stores were placed in the best possible
condition to resist the weather. Sergeant Rice made several photographs of the surrounding
country during our brief stay.

Lieutenant Lockwood found oti Washington Irving Island Sir George Nares' record of
i875-'76, which with his own notice forms Appendix No. 7.

Cape Hawks was left at 11 a. m., and at 3 p. m. Cape Frazer was passed. Washington
Land was sighted at 4 p. m. through the fog, which had just set in. To this time no pack
had been seen, and Kane Basin was evidently freer from ice than Baffin Bay. Only a few
rotten floes of very limited extent were at any time visible. The only paleocrystic floe-bergs
seen were four large ones near Cape Frazer.

The eightieth parallel was cro.ssed at 5 p. m., and half an hour later the vessel was abreast
of Cape Collinson ; but increasing fogginess deterred me from examining the sledge rations
there, for fear of serious delay in my northward progress. Scoresby Bay was filled with
harbor ice, apparently unbroken that year, and already a fringe of new ice extended out-
ward a mile or more into the sea. The dense fog retarded our progress considerably, and

!! i

6 THE LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

about lo p. 111. it was necessary to lay-to until the morning of August 4. About 10 a. m. we
obtained a sounding some eight miles southwest of P*ranklin Island, with no bottom at one hun-
dred and thirty fathoms. Carl Ritter Bay was reached at 2 p. m., and a small depot of about
two hundred and tweuty-fi\e rations of bread and meat were cached on the extreme northern
shore of the bay. Cape Lieber was iieared, and a heavy pack against the land was passed by
a detour to the eastward.

At 9 p. m. August 4 the vessel was stopped for the first time by the ice in the extreme
southeastern part of Lady F'ranklin Bay, only eight miles from our destination. The pack
was a very heavy one, extending in a semicircle from Cape^ Baird to the Greenland coast, near
the mouth of Peterinann Fiord. It consisted of paleocrystic floes ranging from twenty to fifty
feet in thickness, which were cemented together by harbor ice from two to five feet thick.
The Proteus was made fast to the southern edge of the pack to await further movements of
the ice.

On the 5th the cliffs of Cape Lieber were thoroughly examined by Lieutenant Lockwood,
Dr. Pavy, and myself, and a cairn was erected on the highest peak. No signs of a previous
cairn or any other indications of an earlier visit were noted. From the summit of Cape Lieber
the ice to the northward, in Hall Basin and Robeson Channel, was seen to be heavy and almost
continuous.

During the 6th, 7th, and 8th of August it was found neces.sary to frequently change the
position of the vessel in order to avoid besetment, but every opportunity was improved to hold
as much ground as possible. Immeiise fields of ice passed southward during this time.

On the 8tli a nip appeared probable, as the fields driven to the south packed together and
formed a wide barrier, which apparently caught between Hans Island and the Grinnell Land
coast. A strong north wind at the same time was forcing immense quantities of ice south-
ward from Hall Basin. Preparations were made for a nip and the screw and rudder made
ready to be unshipped instantly. The condition of the ice improved, however, at the turn
of the tide, but the vessel was forced slowly southward to withiu some five miles of Hans
Island, having lost about forty-five miles of latitude.

A southwesterly gale with snow set in on the lotli, which continued during the nth,
starting the whole pack to the northward. When the snow cleared on the morning of the
nth, open water was visible along the west coast as far northward as the eye could reach.
At 7.30 a. m. we ran to the northward, and by 2.30 p. 111. had crossed Lady Franklin Bay
without detention from the ice. Water-course Bay was entirely filled with pack-ice, jammed
against the shore, which extended to the southward, but a narrow lane of water between
Distant Cape and Bellot Island permitted the vessel to enter Discovery Harbor, where she was
moored to the ice inside Dutch Island. Fast harbor-ice about eighteen inches thick covered
Discovery Harbor, as well as the western l:alf of Lady Franklin Bay.

Lieutenant Lockwood was sent to examine Water-counse Bay and the coal seam, while I
visited the winter quarters of H. M. vS. Disanrry. The records found by me form Appendix
No. 8. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on Water-course Bay forms Appendix No. 9. He
considered the place an excellent one for the station, and reported that the bay, which was
evidently a shallow one, was partly clear of ice, and that a vessel could probably approach
within some two hundred yards of the shore. The situation of the bay was such that, while
discharging, a vessel would necessarily be unprotected against the moving pack, 'r conse-
quence I decided to establish the station at "Discovery" winter quarters. The decision was
a wi.se one, for Dr. Pav\', from ground overlooking Water-course Bay, found it full of pack-
ice on the I3tli. Immediately on landing we succeeded in killing fourteen niusk-cattle, which
furni.shed an excellent and abundant supply of fresh meat for the first winter.

On the 1 2th the Proteus broke her 'v.^y through nearly two miles of heavy ice, and
anchored on the holding ground of H. M. S. Discovery, within one hundred yards of the post'

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THB LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

office cairn of Captain Stephenson. The party was divided into gangs for unloading the
stores. The general cargo was discharged in sixty hours by 4 a. m. of the 14th, and one hun-
dred and forty tons of coal were landed by the evening of the i8th. The station was named
Conger in honor of Senator Omar D. Conger, who had taken a deep interest in the expedition.

On August 14, my surgeon, first through an officer and later personally, expressed to me
his intention of breaking his formal contract and leaving the expedition unless Mr. Henry
Clay, with whom he had quarreled, should be ordered from duty with the party. The situa-
tion was trying in the extreme. If on one hand it seemed quite impossible to face without
a regular doctor two years' isolated, Arctic service, it would on the other hand certainly be
destructive to discipline and success if the commandingofficer thus yielded to^iictation from his
subordinate. Dr. Pavy was immediately informed that such threat could receive neither
consideration nor concession, but that he must submit to the judgment and decision of his
commander. Dr. Pavy yielded. Mr. Clay, unaware of the question, later requested to be
relieved in order to promote harmony; and I so ordered, having in my mind determined that
such procedure was necessary, on the same grounds as actuated Mr. Clay's request.

The surgeon reporting Corporal Starr as unfitted for stay, owing to asthma, he was ordered
to return in the Proteus.

To facilitate the departure of the vessel, and at the eu.nest request of her captain, she was
formally discharged at 6 p. m., August 18, although our coal was ten tons short, which ^ras
thought could be obtained from the adjacent mine. The expeditionary force landed at 7 p. m.
and took up temporary quarters in tents.

The Proteus left her anchorage about 5 a. m., August 19, but being stopped by heavy ice,
which late southerly winds had accumulated at the northern entrance of the harbor, returned
to anchorage off Proteus Point. This name was given to a point off the east shore of Discovery
Harbor, nearly midway between our station and Dutch Island. The steam-launch under
Lieutenant Lockwood's command attempted to follow the /Vo/«/j when she left her anchorage
on the morning of the 19th, but, owing to the heavy floes, found it not only dangerous but
impossible to do so. The Proteus made several attempts to leave the harbor but was unsuc-
cessful until the evening of the 26th. Private Ryan was sent on board the 22d, under orders
to return to Washington, on account of an epileptic attack.

On August 26, Second Lieut. F. F. Kislingbury, dissatisfied with the expeditionary regu-
lations, requested to be relieved. He was immediately relieved and ordered to report in person
to the Chief Signal Officer. The Proteus got under way just as Lieutenant Kislingbury was
leaving the station to board her, and he was consequently obliged to return. He was at first
notified that he would be regarded as awaiting orders at the station, but subsequently, at his
own request, the order was so modified as to consider him awaiting transportation in order
to report to the Chief Signal Officer of the Army. He remained at Fort Conger perfonning
no duty, and no further requirements were made of him than that he should conform to the
police regulations of the station. At no time did he ever request to be returned to duty as an
officer of the expedition, and his assignment to duty on April 9, 1884, at the time of Lieutenant
Lockwood's death, was made on my own responsibility, as being required by propriety, if not
by the exigencies of the service. It may here be said that Lieutenant Kislingbury at various
times contributed by his skill and assiduity as a hunter to our stock of game, and thus to our
comfort and health. The orders and correspondence in his case form Appendices Nos. 10, 11,
12, 13, and 14.

By almost incessant work the house was covered in so that the cook-room could be
occupied on the 21st, and by August 31, although not comfortable, the house was habitable.
The general stores having been secured and the house well advanced, attention was turned to
field work. Lieutenant Lockwood started with two men on the 29th to ascertain the best
route for inland travel to and around St. Patrick Bay. He returned on the following day

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

having killed a musk-ox during his absence, and also frozen (fortunately only superficially)
his foot. St. Patrick Bay was found to be fringed on its southern shores with precipitous
cliffs, at the head of and overlooking the bay, of about nine hundred feet elevation, which
could be passed only with great difficulty. His report fornv'^ Appendix No. 15.

Acting Assi.stant Surgeon O. Pavy and Sergeant Rice, the photographer of the expedition,
having volunteered their services for an overland trip, were sent northward August 29, with
instructions to proceed as far as practicable towards Cape Joseph Henry, and .search for traces
oi i)\c Jcannclte. Lack of snow forbidding sledges, and heavy running ice the use of boats,
they were obliged to carry food, bedding, etc., on their persons. Sufficient provisions were
taken to last as far as the English depot at Lincoln Bay, where they could be renewed.
Sergeants Ralston and Linn accompanied them one day's journey, hauling supplies on a
wheeled conveyance to form depot A at the most convenient place, which proved to be the
top of the precipitous cliffs overlooking St. Patrick Bay.

Visiting Dutch Island the 30th and finding that Robeson Channel was clearing of ice, I
decided to attempt the establishing by boat of a depot to the northward. Stores and a whale-
boat were hauled over the ice to Dutch Island, and on the 31st Sergeant Brainard and five
men left with stores for depot B. Instructions did not permit them to proceed farther north
than Cape Beechey. If threatened seriously by ice, the boat was to be secured above tide-water
and the party return on foot to the station. Sergeant Brainard was sent in command of this
party owing to Lieutenant Lockwood's temporary disability from frost-bite.

During the month one ptarmigan, a hare, and sixteen musk-cattle were killed.

On the 23d a permanent bench-mark was established, in order that any subsequent
expedition could determine any elevation or depression of the land which might meanwhile
occur. The earth was excavated several inches below permanent frost, and a brick pier set
in cement was erected. A bar of iron, half an inch square, projected two inches above the
brick pier, into which it was firmly set. Its top is 24.5 feet [7.5'"] above mean .sea-level ; it
has a mark (xx) on its south (true) side.

A temporary tide-gauge was erected on the rSth, and a permanent one on the 23d, from
which latter date hourly readings were made. Hourly meteorological observations were
discontinued on the Proteus at 12 p. m. August 18, and commenced on shore an hour later.
These readings gave a mean pressure(8th to 31st) of 29.842, and a mean temperature (5th to 31st)
of 33.30° [.7° C.]. Extremes of 45.9° [7.7° C] and 15.6° [—9.1° C] were noted; the latter
being the lowest August temperature on record, until exceeded during our retreat. in 1883.

By the morning of September i the entire harbor was frozen over, and the young ice was
4->^ inches thick.

The health of the command at the end of the month was excellent.

SEPTEMBER, 1881.

Sergeant Brainard returned with his party on the 3d, having walked overland from the
foot of Motmt Beaufort, near Cape Beechey, where depot B had been established. The inci-
dents of his journey were as follows :

Leaving Dutch Island the forenoon of August 31, the boat had experienced mtich difficulty
from young ice. After incurring imminent danger from large moving floes, they reached Cape
Beechey, but were obliged by the difficult ice-foot to land four miles below the cape, where
heavy ice came down as they were unloading. Drawing up the boat and pitching the tent,
they waited thirty-six hours for an opportunity of returning by boat. Finding that the ice
remained packed, they .secured everything and returned to the station across a very rough
country, passing St. Patrick Bay over the new ice. The detailed report of Sergeant Brainard,
together with that of Sergeant Jewell, forms Appendices 16 and 17.

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THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Sergeant Ciardiner and Corporal Salor were sent tlie Otli to examine how far westward
from Cape Murchison the foot-hills of St. Patrick Hay were practicable for loaded sledjjes.
They reported the ronte possible on land, only a mile beyond and northwest of Cape Mnrchison,
where precipitous cliffs, at the month of and overlookinjj St. Patrick Hay, would necessarily
cause any .sledge party to take the ice-foot or main pack. They found an eight-man sledge, a
pickax, a cooking-lamp, and a twelve-foot cedar boat, with paddles. Only slight repairs were
needed to make the boat serviceable. Hoat and sledges were evidently abandoned by sledging
j)arty from H. M. S. Discovery^ in 1876. Sergeant (iardiner's detailed report of this journey
forms Appendix No. 18.

September 7, Sergeant Linn was sent with a small party to remove depot A from the
cliffs overlooking St. Patrick Hay to a point in the .southeast corner of the bay, where a party
traveling north would naturally pass it. It was located a mile northwest of Cajie Murchison.
Sergeant Linn found in Water-course Bay a cart left by the Kngli.sh expedition, 1875-76.
His report forms Appendix No. 19.

September 7, accompanied by three men and taking dog-sledge A)itoinctti\ I started
westward to ascertain the condition of the ice in Archer Kiord, to examine the depot which
Lieutenant Conybeare, R. N., was believed to have left in Sun Bay, and to gather such infor-
mation as would be valuable in case of a sledge trip inland toward the west coast of (irinnell
Land. The western shore of the large bay forming the extreme southwestern parts of Dis-
covery Harbor was reached that afternoon, and while the party were slaughtering a herd of
musk-oxen, I visited alone Sun Bay and Stony Cape. The ice in Archer Fiord, of recent
formation, was found in perfect condition for traveling. Searching two hours over rocky
points for the depot, and .seriously injuring my knee by a fall among sharp rocks, I was
obliged to abandon the search. Two cans, one each of rum and alcohol, were the only articles
found. Possibly the rations may have been left in bags and been eaten by animals, a wolf's
lair being near. Eleven musk-cattle were killed, the remainder of the herd being spared by
my orders, to guard against their extermination. Twelve eider ducks were killed in the
southwest part of Discovery Harbor. A considerable quantity of drift-wood, apparently conif-
erous, as a rule, was gathered along the shores, some pieces being about three feet in circum-
ference. The detailed description forms Appendix No. 126,

Dr. Pavy appeared at the station at 4 a. m. September 9, and reported that Sergeant Rice,
suffering from an attack of inflammatory rheumatism, had been left that night in the ravine
north of St. Patrick Bay, about ten miles from the station. Sergeant Brainard was at once
sent to him with needful medicines and provisions, followed by four men with a sled and an
improvised stretcher. Five men being unable to bring him up the high, steep cliffs bordering
St. Patrick Bay, six others were added to the party, whose united efforts were required for
nearly an hour and a half to get him up the cliffs. During their absence a northeasterly gale
set in, and the temperature fell to +8° [ — 13.3° C.]. A number of frost-bites resulted, for-
tunately none severe.

Dr. Pavy had reached Cape Union September 3. He traveled from F'ort Conger across the
country, around St. Patrick Bay, striking the coast at Cape Beechey. Following thence the
shore as far as Black Cliffs he was compelled by precipitous crags and open water to turn
back, and reached Wrangel Bay by a detour inland. From Wrangel Bay to Cape Union the
coast had been followed. The English depot at Lincoln Bay was carefully examined. The
bread an'd many of the groceries were found to be spoiled. The preserved beef, rum, and
stearine were good. Several boxes of meat and potatoes were missing, possibly blown into
the"channel by some violent storm. The serviceable groceries were packed in one cask. From
Cape Union the Greenland coast was visible. Dr. Pavy said, as far as Cape Britannia. The
Polar Ocean was covered with the ordinary pack; no paleocrystic floes, and but few water
lanes were seen. In Robeson Channel a water lane, about two miles wide, extended northward

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

and southward al(»njj the (iriiinell Land sliore as far as the eye could reach. vSave a few
j^ronndcd berjp, no paleocrystic ice was seen at any time. No traces of \.\\k JranutUe were
found.

Tlie condition of Serj^eant Rice precluded progress beyond Cajx; Union. Having;; broken
through the young ice in Wrangel Hay, he had been troubled with rheumatic pains the 3d.
On the 4th his joints were .so .swollen that he could not draw on his boots without difficulty.
Although suffering with acute rheumatism, he traveled fifty-five out of seventy.-one hours after
leaving Lincoln Bay. When reached by the party he could move no limb e.\ccpt by great
effort. The severity of his sufferings nuiy be estimated from his losing twenty-four pounds
of flesh during his journey. His pluck and endurance, as Dr. Favy rcjnarkcd, were wonderful.
He recovered speedily, and on the 19th was again in the field.

Dr. Pavy found at the head of Lincoln Bay several .small hunps of coal, but was unable
to locate the vein. A fish about seven inches long was .seen in Becchey Lake. A hare was
shot, and nine musk-cattle seen during the trip. Dr. Pavy's orders and detailed report form
Appendices Nos. 20 and 21.

On the loth, reluctantly realizing that winter had come, advantage was taken of a very
high tide, augmented by a northerly gale, to haul ihe launch Lady Grccly up on the ice-foot,
where, undisturbed, she could securely pa.ss the winter.

September 11, Lieutenant Lockwood, with Sergeant Oardine' and Eskin'.o Christiansen,
started with dog-sledge to explore the "Bellow.s," a valley Icadiig northwestward from the
southwest part of Di.scovery Harbor. Lieutenant Lockwood fo'lowed the valley for about
twelve miles beyond the farthest of Lieutenant Archer, R. N. li. the last dozen miles the
valley narrowed rapidly, changed its direction to the northward, and apparently terminated in
a narrow gorge a mile or two beyond Lieutenant Lockwood's farthest, through which a dis-
tant snow-covered mountain was seen.

The latter part of his outward journey was on foot, he being compelled, as was Lieutenant
Archer, to leave his sledge behind, it being nearly worn out by the sharp, flinty stones with
which the bed of the valley was covered. A great deal of lignite coal in small pieces was
.seen between Black Cape and Devil's Back, but it could not be found /;/ situ. This coal
was evidently seen by Lieutenant Archer, R. N., who "found the bottom of the valley to
consist of * * * shingle * * * mi.xed with some hard sut ♦^•>*'ce very much like
charcoal." This coal resembled very much in appearance that of thf vein near Water-course
Bay.

About two and a half miles from Black Cape, at an elevation of nearly one hundred and
fifty feet [46'"] above the sea. Lieutenant Lockwood found a piece of knotty pine, three feet
long and eight inches in diameter, in the frozen earth. Breaking his hatchet handle in an
attempt to cut it out, he was unable to obtain the stick. Two musk-oxen were seen, but in
accordance with my orders were not killed. Lieutenant Lockwood's report forms Appendix
No, 22.

Dr. Pavy, with two men and two dog-sledges, left September 15, with orders to proceed
down Archer Fiord and travel overland westward from Mount Neville as far as his provisions
would permit. He returned the following day, reporting that the late storm had broken up
the new ice in Archer Fiord, and that progress beyond Sun Bay was impracticable. The
written report rendered by Dr. Pavy and the orders for his journey form Appendices Nos. 23
and 24.

September 16 I started with two men for three days' inland journey towards the United
States Mountains, but was myself compelled to return the same day, my knee not having
sufficiently recovered from its injury the week previous. A man replacing me, the party con-
tinued onwards, but were driven in by a heavy storm the i8th. Sergeant Brainard verbally

f-*«iP!>n«^Wt

Map of Country immfdjately SuRROUNni\r. Ft. Cont.er.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

reported that they had traveled twenty-five miles to the northwest, and had reached a high
"divide," from which they believed water drained westward, althongh a thick snow-storm
prevented any view.

Dr. Pavy started on the 2ist with supplies for depot B, and was unable to round Dista*it
Cape. Later in the day, with Sergeants Braiuard and Rice, I got the sledge around the cape
to the entrance of Water-course Bay, where, a runner breaking, the load was left luitil the next
day, when Sergeant Braiuard moved it to the north shore of St. Patrick Ba

On the 24th Lieutenant Lockwood started with four men to haul supplies to depot B (near
Cape Beechey). In returning 'le brought from near the head of St. Patrick's Bay a section of
a large coniferous tree, probably pine. It was found just above the tide-water by Privates
Connell and Chri&.iansen, September 9, at which time the largest end was cut off for fire-wood
for the relief party. The section from the center was of nine and a half inches diameter.
When found, the tree was thirty f^ct in length. I,ieutenant Lockwood's detailed report is
appended. No. 25.

Sergeant Rice, on the 25tli and 26th, with dog-sledge, added supplies to depot B. His
report forms Appendix No. 26.

Sergear ts Braiuard and Jewell examined the ice towards Cape Lieber September 26. It
was found to be quite rough and evidently liable as yet to open during the tides or strong winds.

During the month a hare, four wolves, twelve eider-ducks, and eleven musk-cattle were
killed. The wolves were of a pack which, eighteen in number, crossed the harbor-ice near
the station September 17. Two others of the pack were badly wounded.

Stars were first visible midnight of September 9 and 10. Sets of time, latitude, and
azimuth observations were made during the month. From the 17th to the 19th, inclusive,
hourly observations of magnetic declination were made, and observations for inclination and
horizontal intensity. In addition to hourly tidal observations, the high nd low waters were
observed as to time and height. Hourly meteorological observations were made. (As the
hourly observations mentioned above have been regularly made, they will not be referred to
in detail each month.)

Mean pressure, 29.800 [756.9"""] ; temperature, + 10.92° [ — 11.7° C.]. The mean tem-
perature (4.7° [2.6° C] below Nares, Floeberg Beach, 1875) has been surpassed as regards cold
only by 9.74° [ — 12.4'' C] of Kane, Van Rensselaer Harbor, 1853.

Extremes of temperature, +30° [ — 1.1° C] and — 11.9° [ — 24.4° C.]. The minimum
is the lowest on record for September. A minimum of — 14.5° [ — 25.8° C] was experienced
by field parties the night of the 24th and 25th.

The new ice was fifteen inches thick at the end of the month. Snow fell on nine days ;
amount melted, '^23 inch.

The issue of an ounce of lime-juice to each man, which had been made on alternate days,
became daily from September 21. The health of the command continued excellent.

0CT0BP:R, 1881.

The .<!tate of the ice permitting sledge travel. Dr. Pavy left, October 2, with Private
Whisler, Eskimo Jens, and two dog sledges, under orders to proceed to Cape Joseph Henry,
en route for drift-wood or other possible traces of ihcjcaiiiutfe. In addition to his search,
he was to lay out uortluvard such depots as would facilitate spring iravel along the cost of
Griiniell Laud. He returned the 9th. He had been obliged to reach Wrangcl Bay from Cape
Beechey by an inland route, and was stopped by open water and failure of ice-foot, south of
Lincoln Bay, at the cliffs of Cape Frederick VII. Very heavy ice was found from that point
southward to Wrangel Bay. Two small depots (C, in Wraugel Bay, and I), at the foot of Mount
Parry) were established. His orders and report are to be found in Appendices Nos. 27, 28,
and 35.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Liontenaiit Lockwood (3d to 5th) explored the \alley north of Si. Patrick Bay. About
a milt and a half wide at the ba>', it extends six miles to the northwest (true) and terminates
in a narrow ravine, the bed of the river. His report, with a map of the valley, forms Appendix
No. 29.

I <amps became necessary midday of the 8th. On the 5th, nth, and 13th, parties were
sent to the sonthwest jxirt of I)isco\ery Harbor to brinjj in the mnsk-cattle killed September
7; the eleven f'irnished twenty-six hnndred pounds of dressed meat. The report of Serj^eant
Rice (Appendix No. 30) is of interest in connection with tlie equipment of the parties.

Lieutenant Lockwood, havin<j ascertained on the 9th that the ice in that direction was
practicable, on the 12th and 13th establis)ied a small depot of provisions at Cape Baird, for
possible emergencies. Hudson Bay sledjjes were used for the work and proved satisfactory.

The sun was last visible from the station October 14, not to be seen again until February,
one hundred and thirty-.seven days. Stars were visible at noon (local time) October 22.

October 18 a party was sent to mine coal in Water-cour.se ravine, and on the 19th, 20th,
24th, 26th, and 28th, parties were engaged in hauling it to depot A (Cape ^lurchison), where
a ton and a half was accumulated to serve as fuel for sledge parties. A small quantity .was
hauled to the main .station.

Lieutenant Lockwood, October 23, proceeded with i party to depot B, near Cape Beechey,
and constructed a substantial snow house. A small stove and four hundred poinids of coal
were hauled from depot A to dejiot B. He ascended Mount Beaufort October 26, and saw
Robeson Channel open in all directions. The only ice to be seen appeared to be small. No
floe-bergs, .save a few grounded ones, could be di.sccrned. He was of the opinion that an Arctic
vessel could Iiave steamed with but little if any trouble from Cape Lieber to Repulse Harbor.

October 9 an anemometer and self- registering thermometer were exposed on Mount
Campbell, Bellot Island, at an elevation of about 2,100 feet [640""]. Magnetical, meteorologi-
cal, and tidal observations were continued as usual.

Mean pressure, 29.891 [759.2"""] ; temperature. -9.22° [ — 22.9° C.]. The mean temper-
ature is the lowest recorded for October, except at this station (Stephen.son), -9.79° [ — 23.2"
C], 1875. Kxtremes of temperature, -I-9.6" [—12.4° C] and -34° [—36.7° C.]. The
maximum is the lowest recorded by over 6° [3.3° C.]. A lower minimum has been recorded
only by .Kane, Van Ren.sselaer Harbor, 1854 — 37-8° [ — 38.8" C], and at this station,
Stephenson, 1875 (-39.0°) [-39-4° C.].

vSca temperatures were observed and the new ice measured every fifth day. Ice, November
I, twenty-seven inches thick.

A case of antcmia, which yielded readily to treatmeni, put Private Long off of duly for a
short time; otherwise the health of the connnand was excellent.

«li(|

NOVKMBKR, 1S81.

Winter may be considered as having commenced when the sun left. The beginning of
the long Arctic night found the expedition in excellent spirits and full of hope and confidence
as to the spring work. The autumn work on the (irinnell Land coast was successful beyond
anticipation. Four depots had been established to the northward; the condition of the stores
at Lincoln Bay ascertained ; points i)rcviously unknown reached toward the interior ; and
practical information gained as to the conditions governing field work in high latit"des.
The only drawback was our inability to cross Rol)eson Charncl in order to tran.sport caches
of provisions, and to ascertain the quantity and condition of the stores at Thank (iod Harbor.
During vSeptcmber, young ice had ])rcventcd any attempt to cross the chainiel, and at the
end of October, although the weather had been unprecedentedlj' cold, the straits could not be

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THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

considered as safe for sledges. Lieutenant Lockwood, however, proposed that a crossing be
attempted near Cape Beechey, at the narrowest part of the cliannel. While sensible of the
very hazardous nature of such an attempt, I consented, having full confidence in Lieutenant
Lockwood's prudence, and feeling assured that his good judgment would cause him to abandon
the effort at the proper time. Leaving the station November 2 with eight men, who had
all volunteered for the duty, he returned the 8th, having made two unsuccessful efforts on
the 4th and 5th. The channel was found covered with heavy ice, some of which was in
motion, and several miles from the shore a channel of open water four or five hundred yards
wide was found. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders and detailed report fqnn Appendices Nos.
31 and 32.

Dr. Pavy, who had left with two dog-sledges, November 3, to add stores to depot C in
Wrangel Bay, returned to the station the same day as Lieutenant Lockwood, No\'ember 8.
Dr. Pavy's orders and reports form Appendices Nos. 33, 34, and 35.

These trips, ending twenty-three days after the sun had left us, terminated the autumn
work at an unprecedentedly late date, the high latitude being considered. The expedition
then settled down to winter quiet.

A tri-weekly school was commenced during the month and kept up through the winter,
with benefit to the men attending. Of the educational qualifications of the expedition it may
be said that every man of the party but one could write, and he acquired the attainment during
the winter. A semi-monthly newspaper. The Arctic Moon., continued for four numbers, excit-
ing interest and affording amusement.

The 24th was appointed as a day of thanksgiving and praise. Selections from the Psalms
were read in the morning. Amusements of various kinds, races, rifle-sliooting, etc., filled up
the day pleasantly and added zest to the excellent dinner which followed.

November 24 the obser\'er commenced taking daily samples of the air, in accordance with
instructions furnished by Prof Edward Morley. Other observations were continued as usual.

The thickness of the new ice December i, was thirty-one inches.

Means: pressure, 29.760 [755.9""° ] ; temperature, — 24.53° ["~3i"4° ^-l- Extremes of
temperature, — 3.0° [ — 19.4° C.] and — 46.0° [ — 43.3° C.]. The mean temperature is the
lowest on record of any expedition, being 2. 15'' [1.2° C] lower than that of Kane, Van Rens-
.selaer Harbor, 1853. Only one lower maximum is known: Kellett, H. M S. Rcso/iiii; near
Melville Island, 1853 (by 5°) [2-8° C.]. There are two lower minima: Parry, Melville Island,
1819 (—47.0°) [—43.9° C], and Kane, Van Rensselaer Harbor, 1853 (—47.9°) [—44.4" C.].

The health of the party remained excellent. No symptoms of scurvy appeared, and no
other sickness occurred.

On the 30th Sergeant Gardiner broke his left leg while making a tidal obser\'ation. No
complication followed in his case ; his general health remained good, although the bone united
slowly.

DECEMBER, 1881.

December passed slowly. About the loth, if at any time, a few of the men gave indica-
tions of being affected by the continual darkness, but such signs soon disappeared, and cheerful
spirits returned. The Eskimo appeared to be the most affected. On the 13th Jens Edward
disappeared, leaving the station in early morning, without mittens and without breakfast.
Sending two parties with lanterns to describe a half-mile circle around the station, his tracks
were soon found, leading towards the straits. He was at once pursued, and was overtaken
about ten miles from the station, near Cape Murchison. He returned to the station without
objection, and in time recovered his spirits. No cause for his action in this respect could be
ascertained.

TDE LA.DY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Sergeant Rice, while assisting in the pursuit, fell on the ice-foot in the straits and seriously
injured his shoulder. He was sent back in charge of Private Whisler. The latter had left
the station in zeal, without orders, and was too thinly clad. Although the weather was mod-
erately warm ( — 29°) [ — 33.9° C] yet over exertion, followed by reaction, so affected him that
he would have perished from cold had it not been for Sergeant Rice's judirlous and persistent
efforts. These efforts were the more creditable that Sergeant Rice's right arm was useless from
his fall. This exposure affected somewhat Private Whisler's faculties, and it was several hours
after his return before he was entirely in his right mind.

Eskimo Christiansen two days later gave decided signs of following Tens' example, saying
that the men intended to kill him. In this connection it should be said that the men always
treated the Eskimo in the kindest and most considerate manner, carefully avoiding any
pleasantries with or allusions to them. This course had been enjoined on them by me as the
result of Inspector Smith's advice regarding them, and from my knowledge of the experiences
of previous expeditions. The affair gave me much unea.siness until the returning sun and
commencement of spring work engaged their attention and rendered them more cheerful.

Christmas was celebrated as elaborately as our surroundings would pennit. The kind
thoughtfulness of friends of the expedition, some personally unknown to any member, had
done not a little to contribute to our pleasure, by providing a gift for everj' member of the
party. I am certain that the heart of more than one man was deeply touched by these
contributions.

The usual observations were regularly made during the month. Means : pressure, 29.709
[754.6"'"'] ; temperature, — 32.01° [ — 35.6° C.]. Maximum temperature, — 10° [ — 23.3°
C.]; minimum, — 52.2° [ — 46.8° C.]. Lower means and extremes of temperatures have been
observed but twice in December.

The health of the command remained good. No .signs of scurvy were detected. A few
cases of indigestion and anaemia, not interfering with duty, were reported.

JANUARY, 1882.

The event of January was a storm of great violence on the i6th. The barometer sank
to 29.020 [737.1"""] (0.86 inch in sixteen hours), while the temperature rose to — 9.5° [ — 23.1°
C] (21.4° [11.9°. C] in seven hours). The wind attained a registered velocity of northeast
sixty-five miles per hour, when the anemometer spindle broke. Without a doubt a velocity
between eighty and ninet> miles per hour was reached. For nearly an hour I was fearful lest
the house be torn in pieces, and I doubt not it would have been destroyed but for its double
embankment of earth and snow.

Although six of the most active men devoted their energies to the observations, yet one
tidal and three temperature observations were missed. The entire solid covering of ice moved
perceptibly in the harbor, a swell of several inches appeared in the tidal hole (inside a snow-
house), and the tidal rod was bent and displaced.

Pendulum observations were commenced on the 6th and ended on the 29th. Forty-eight
separate swings were obtained, on sixteen days, with corresponding time observations. Ser-
geant Edward Israel, Signal Service, a graduate of Ann Arbor University, observed the transits
and made the time observations. He is entitled to much credit for attention and devotion to
his work, whi^':, as every Arctic observer must know, was of a trying character. The mean tem-
perature of the sixteen days on which he observed averaged more than 40° below zero [ — 40°
C], and the time observations were made with the temperature of the observatory 56° below
zero [ — 4f/ C.]. It is, perhaps, superfluous to add that he suffered .somewhat from frost-bites.

The detailed iiendulum observations, with records of corresponding time observations,
have been transmitted, for reduction and publication, to the Superintendent of the U. S. Coast

TITE LADY PRA^JKLIX BAY EXPEDITTOlf.

and Geodetic Survey, at who.'ic initiative and expense the work was done. The instructions
of Assistant Charles Peirce, of that service, were followed as closely as practicable, and fortu-
nately no accident or mishap occurred in the course of the observations. The penduluni
itself was brought back in good condition, so that further comparable observations may be
made with that instrument.

Other obseivations were made as usual.

Means: Pressure, 29.717 [754. 8"""'] {temperature, —38.27° [—39.0° C.]; maximum, — 9.5°
[ — 23.1° C.]; minimum, — 58.2° [ — 50.1° C.]. Several expeditions have experienced lower
extremes and means.

Slight symptoms of scurvy appeared in the case of Jens Edward, Eskimo, who had been
in a very despondent mood, but by the beginning of February he had entirely recovered.
Scurvy symptoms occurred in no other case. Marked anaemia in one case put a man oiTduty
for a few days. From the 15th there was a general improvement in the spirits and health of
the whole party. ?

FEBRUARY, 1882.

The beginning of the month was marked by verj- cold and unusually clear weather. At
mid-day of the 2d the thermometer on the floe could be read without artificial light. The
increasing evidences of the returning sun were closely noted by all, and naturally afforded
universal gratification. The minimum temperature of the winter was observed on the 3d; the
standard in instrument shelter (corrected from freezing mercury at — 37-9°) [ — 38-8°C.],
read — 62.1° [ — 52.3° C. ]; substandard on harbor floe (correc.ed), — 63. 1° [ — 52.8° C.]; uncor-
rected, -67° [-55° C.].

On the i6th terminated a period of cold probably unparalleled for its duration and inten-
sity. Pure mercury remained frozen sixteen days and five hours, while the corrected mean
temperature on the floe was — 54-6° [ — 48.1° C.]. Kane's period of greatest cold for sixteen
consecutive daysgavea mean ofbut — 43-3° [ — 41.8° C.]. At thisstation, Stephenson, 1876,
the mean for fourteen days was (uncorrected) — 49° [ — 45° C.].

Lieutenant Lockwood, with two men and a dog-sledge, was sent on the 19th to examine
the ice from Cape Beechey towards the Greenland coast, and determine what route should be
followed in crossing Robeson Channel as soon as the sun should reappear. They returned the
22d, having traveled several miles eastward from Cape Beechey and found good ice. Although
mercury was frozen during their entire absence, and the temperature as low as — 52.1°
[ — 46.7° C], the party experienced but slight frost-bites. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders and
reports form Appendices Nos. 36 and T)]-

Washington's birthday was duly celebrated. Out-of-door amusements with a mean tem-
perature of — 44° [ — 42.2° C] were not much in favor. Races and target-shooting were par-
ticipated in, however. Parties were occupied the 23d and 24th in mining coal, and in hauling
it and other supplies to Cape Murchison.

On the 28th the sun, after an absence of one hundred and thirty-seven da>s, was seen for
a few minutes.

Experimentstodetermine the velocity of sound were made at temperatures as low as — 55°
[ — 48.3° C] and — 61° [ — 51.7° C.]. More careful experiments were made the second winter,
which, with deductions, form Appendix No. 137.

A hare waj .shot on the 15th, and later in the month two others.

The greater part of the month was employed in active preparations for .spiing traveling.
Insufficiently equipped originally for sledging work many articles had to be improvised. The
ingenuity of the party proved equal to all demands made upon it. Pri\ates Bender and
Frederick were entitled to especial credit for special devices and improvements ; the for uer
in cooking and the latter in foot and tentage gear. Sergeants Elison and Cross succeeded
admirably in the construction of sledges after the Greenland and Hudson Bay models.

■ %

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY BXPBDITrON.

The new ice at tlie end of tlie month was fifty-three and a half inclies thick.

Mean pressnre, 29.765 [756.0"""] ; tetnperature, mean, — 46.47° [ — 43.6° C] ; maximnm,
— 10° [—23.3° C.]; minimnm, — 62.1° [—52.3° C]

Lower minima have been reported only by the expeditions of Kane, Van Rensselaer
Harbor, 1854 (—66.4°) [— 54.7° C], and Nares, Floeber^ Beach, 1H76 (—66.5°) [—54.7° C.].

The mean temperature was nnprecedentedly low, not only for Febrnar}', bnt for every
month. Tlie nearest Febrnary mean, Nares, Floeberg Beach, 1876. was 8.5° [4.7° C]
hijflier.

Tlie coldest month previonsly reported by an Arctic expedition was by McClnre, Mercy
Bay, January, 1853, mean (unofficial and uncorrected) — 43.^7° [ — 42.2° C.]. Against this
may fairly be placed the mean of our floe thermometer, for P'^iruar)', — 52.13° [ — 46.7° C]
uncorrected, — 48.23° [ — 44.6° C] corrected. Our floe thermometer was properly protected
from radiation, and was a sub-standard, reading with the standard under similar conditions.

The health of the command was excellent throughout the month. This subject since the
previous October had naturally engaged the most earnest and especial attention of Dr. Pavy
and myself Special stress was laid by me on the following points: Thorough and frequent
airing of beds and bed-clothing to insure perfect dryness ; regular bathing ; change and va-
riety in diet ; and innocent amusements. A course of lectures was commenced in January
and continued throughout the winter. lYesh bread of excellent quality, canned fruit, musk-
meat or birds, and canned vegetables were all issued on alternate days. An ounce of lime-
juice was taken daily by each man. The entire party was medically examined each week.
This subject is treated more fully in the medical report, which forms Appendix No. 103.

MARCH, 1882. . .

The sun having returned, all thoughts and energies were turned towards spring traveling.
Lieutenant Lockwood, with three men and dog-sledge, left March ist for Thank God Harbor,
on the Cireenland coast, to ascertain what serviceable provisions could be drawn from that
point for the North Greenland sledge party. A second sledge, under Private Long, accom-
panied him as far as depot B, near Cape Beechey, carrying additional supplies to that point.

Lieutenant Lockwood returned on the nth, having found the traveling generally good,
although in places very bad. His route outward was via Capes Beechey and Lupton; inward
he traveled overland to Newman Bay and around Cape Sumner. Although the roof and a side
were gone, the observatory building at Thank God Harbor was found yet standing, and the
stores fairly protected from weather and animals. In quantity and variety the articles in no
way agreed with the list in the Polaris narrative. The records of the English expedition and
their store-book were brought to Fort Conger. They form, with Lieutenant Lockwood's
orders and report. Appendices Nos. 38, 39, and 40. The graves of Hall, Hand, and Paul were
visited and were found in good condition. The English twenty-foot ice-boat was apparently
in good order. The whale-boat at Polaris Boat Camp was found, with materials at hand with
which she could be made serviceable.

The experiences of this sledging party had been looked forward to by me with consid-
erable anxiety. The journey, latitude and sun considered, was the earliest extended one on
record, and was made in the worst month in the year. The party experienced a severe storm,
and for ten days the temperature never rose higher than — 30° [ — 34.4° C.]. They traveled
once in — 55.5° [ — 48.6° C] with a light wind, and again in a storm at — 40° [ — 40° C.];
experiencing in the latter case frequent, but not severe, frost-bites. The trip thoroughly tested
foot-gear, cooking apparatus, sleeping-bags, and sledges which were, to a certain extent, expe-
rimental. While several slight defects were discovered, yet the general experience inspired

r <

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

confidence and reliance during the main spring work which followed later. The exemption
from severe frost-bites at such extreme temperatures were guarantees of the caution and help-
fultiess of the several members of the party.

It is but justice to Lieutenant Lockwood and his party to notice, in connection with this
remarkably .successful journey, that the distance from Thank God Harbor to Cape Stunnct,
was pas.sed over in three marches. It is no disparagement to Captain Hall, that over the same
road and distance from Thank God HarJ)or to Cape Brevoort six marches were necessary
during his journey.

Sending on the 2d to Water-course Bay for the meat of two musk-cattle, which had been
su.spended on a tripod, it was found that drifting snow had enabled wolves and foxes to reach
it. It was our only loss of meat during the winter, and was unimportant, our supply being
ample.

Dr. Pavy, with Sergeant Linn, Jens, and dog-sledge, left, March 5, to establish depot E
on the Greenland coast for Lieutenant Lockwood's spring traveling. His own supplies, except
such as were to be drawn from the English depot at Lincoln Bay, had been cached the
preceding autumn. The journey was made under trying circumstances. They traveled
with the temperature as low as — 54° [ — 47.8° C], and cro.ssed Robeson Channel during a
northeast gale; temperature, — 38° [ — 38.9° C.]. The only frost-bite was that of Eskimo Jens
Edward, who, thinking Sergeant Linn sick, slept outside the bag rather than disturb him.
Although the temperature sank that night to — 44.7° [ — 42.6° C] he had but one toe frozen,
and that not severely. Dr. Pavy's orders and reports form Appendices Nos. 41 and 42.

March 14, Sergeant Brainard, with seven men, started with the boat Discovery (which
had been hauled as far as Water-course Bay on the 7th) and additional sledging supplies,
which were to be cached on the Greenland coast. They returned on the 20th, having left the
boat and part of the supplies at depot E, in the Gap. Sergeant Brainard was unable to take
all the supplies across Robeson Channel, or move depot E into Newman Bay, within the time
fixed for his return, owing to his party being weakened by the loss of two men, one of whom,
attacked with rheumatism, was necessarily seut back with a comrade to depot B to await the
return of the party. In addition to stormy weather the party experienced extreme cold, trav-
eling in a temperature of — 50° [ — 45.6° C], and having a minimum of — 61° [ — 51.7° C.].
The successful i.ssue of this journey under such trying conditions of the weather and tempera-
ture, bears strong testimony to the successful management of field details by Sergeant Brainard,
and also evidences the hardy endurance of the members of the party. Sergeant Brainard' s
report forms Appendix No. 44, and his orders No. 43.

On March 19 Dr. Pavy, who had volunteered his services for that special geographical
work, started for Cape Joseph Henry, whence he was to attempt the discovery of land to the
northward, over the Polar Ocean. He was instructed to keep a sharp lookout for drift-wood
in order that no chance for discovering the fate of i\\e Jeatinclic should be lost. His party
consisted of Sergeant Rice, Signal Service, the photographer of the expedition, and Jens
Edward, driver of the dog-sledge Lil/a.

The Antoinette, under Sergeant Jewell, Signal Service, was sent as a supporting sledge as
far as Lincoln Bay. Sergeant Jewell returned to the station March 30. He had, after leaving
Dr. Pavy at Lincoln Bay, transported two loads of supplies from depot B near Cape Beechej-,
to depot E in the Gap, on the Greenland coast. Private Ellis, who had left the station on the
23d to assist in this work, had unfortunately wet his feet from tidal overflow, while en route
to Cape Beechey, from which somewhat severe, but superficial, frost-bites followed. Ellis,
however, displayed great endurance in the affair, cro.ssing Robeson Channel twice after his
injury, and then returned on foot alone from Cape Beechey to the station. Sergeant Jewell
was entitled to great credit for his energy and endurance. During the time he was in the field
the mean temperature was — 35.2° [ — 37.3° C.]; and, on five days, temperatures ranging from
H. Mis. 393 2

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

■f !

•

; 1

— 50° to — 53° [ — 46°C. to — 47° C] were recorded. His field work was done without tentagC
except when he chanced to lie at Cape Beechey. Serjeant Jewell's rejxjrt fonns Apjxjndix
No. 45.

March 19, continnons daylight practically commenced, Arctnrns being the only star
visible at midnight.

The jolly-boat I a/orous wsai taken to Dutch Lsland on the 31st, and hauled up on the
adjacent shore, convenient for use when the straits should open.

Four hares were the only game added to our larder during the month. A large quantity
of musk-meat, and over seventy guillemots from Cireenland, were yet on hand at the end of
the month.

On the 7th an anemometer and on the nth a minimum thermometer were exposed at
Dutch Island for the purpose of comparison.

The usual observations were uninterrupted during the month.

Mean pressure, 29.738 [755.3°""]. On the 29th the barometer touched 28.988 [736.3"""].

Temperature: Mean, — 29.94° [ — 34.4° C] ; maximum, — 7° [ — 21.7° C] ; minimum,
— 46.8° [ — 43.8° C.]. The mean and minimum temperatures were ver>' high for the latitude.
This was the fifth consecutive month during which the thermometer remained constantly be-
low zero [—17.8° C.].

The black-bulb solar thermometer, which was scaled only down to five degrees above
zero [ — 15" C], first registered on the loth.

On the 19th the ice on Lake Alexander was fouhd to be eighty inches thick, against
fifty-four inches in the harbor a few days later. On April i the harbor-ice was fifty-five
inches thick.

APRIL, 1882.

The early days of April were fully occtipied with the final arrangements for the party
selected to explore the north coast of Greenland. This work had lately been intrusted to
Second Lieut. James B. Lockwood, with general instructions which empowered him to perfect
the necessary field detaiLs. Sergeant Brainard and nine men, dragging the Hudson Bay sledges
Beaumont^ Hall,, Hayes,, and Kane,, left April 3, followed the next day by Lieutenant Lockwood
and two men with the Antoinette, dragged by eight dogs. In the interest of this journey of
exploration, a large depot of provisions had already been established under my directions near
Cape Beechey, and a second one on the Greenland coast near Cape Sumner.

The force employed consisted of thirteen ; main party, Lieutenant Lockwood, Sergeant
Brainard, and Eskimo Christiansen, with dog-sledge Antoinette ; supporting parties, four
sergeants, a corporal and five privates, hauling four Hudson Bay sledges.

By the 13th four men had returned to the station ; two. Privates Henry and Whisler,
though physically sound, had proved unfit for arduous field work at such low temperatures ;
Private Connell had been incapacitated by a superficial frost-bite (the party having had
temperatures as low as — 49° [ — 45° C.]) which temporarily lamed him, and Private Bieder-
bick had been attacked by a bladder trouble which caused Lieutenant Lockwood to consider
his return advisable. The latter two men returned reluctantly. Lieutenant Lockwood re-
tu.ned to the station on the 14th, and left again the same day. He came for a spare set of
runners to the Antoinette^ as the old set showed signs of weakness. His party and rations
were then at Polaris Boat Camp, and he reported that, although delayed by violent storms, yet
the progress of his work was not at all discouraging.

At 8 p. m. of the 3d, Sergeant Rice, Signal Service, the photographer of the expedition,
appeared with Eskimo Jens Edward, bringing with them the iron shoe of one of the runners of
Dr. Pavy's sledge, which had completely broken down on the morning of the 2d at Cape Union.
This sledge had beeu brought from Greenland, and was hardly made of as choice material as

% •

TOE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

sledges of the same pattern which had been constnicted at Conger. Sergeant Rice had
immediately offered to return to the station for a runner, and half an hour after the acci-
dent was on the way to Conger with P^skimo Jens. They arrived at depot li, .south of Cajie
Beechey, at 2.30 p. m. the same day, after journeyings which maybe considered as among
the most remarkable in Arctic annals. They had been thirty-six hours without sleep, a!ul in
nineteen hours had traveled at least forty mile.s, over a rough pack in which much nibble ice
was interspersed. The temperature, which was — 42° [ — 41° C] at starting, fell during their
match to — 56° [ — 49° C], and was — 32° [ — 35.6° C] on their arrival at Conger. Leaving
Fort Conger April 4, Sergeant Rice reached Lincoln Bay the 6th, having with Jens carried the
ninner (which weighed twenty-five pounds) from Cape Beechey, to which point it had been
taken on Lieutenant Lockwood's sledge.

Other than this accident, reports from Dr. Pavy were ver>' encouraging. His team was
in good condition, and, except the load on his broken sledge, all his supplies were at Black
Cape. No heavy ice whatever could be seen from that cape, and traveling ahead appeared
good. Previous to the accident he had expected to leave the coast at Cape Joseph Henry by
the nth of April.

Jupiter was last seen on the 2d, and continuous daylight commenced although the sun
sank a few degrees below the horizon until the nth.

On the 8th the temperature rose to 1.2° [ — 17.1° C], after having remained rontinnou.sly
below zero [ — 17.8° C] for one hundred and sixty-five day.s.

Sergeant Cross and Private Bender were sent on the 19th to Sun Bay with additional
supplies for that depot. Their orders further required them to travel as far into the Cony-
beare Bay as could be done in half a day's march, in order to ascertain the condition of the
ice, and to report on the general outlook of the countiy to the westward of that bay. This
journey was ordered with the hopes of obtaining information as to whether that route
afforded any chance of a successful journey to the westward. On their return (the 22d) they
'nfonned me tliat they had gone as far as opposite the west end of Miller Island. Travel
was heavy, and thick weather prevented any view to the westward.

In view of our ignorance concerning the interior of Grinnell Land, I had long been
impressed with the importance of penetrating it, and had not doubted the practicability of such
a journey. Although imbued with the idea that an Arctic .commander's place is at his ship or
station, yet in default of an officer, and feeling secure as to the condition of the parties to the
northward, I started on such a trip April 24, to be absent not exceeding twenty days.

The route determined on was from Archer Fiord via Conybeare Bay. Five men and two
Hudson Bay sledges were taken, two of the men to be a supporting party for but two of the
marches. Only indispensable articles of the lightest possible character were taken, from the
kn -iwledge that even moderate success must depend largely upon light equipment. A single
rubber blanket, a dog rent, and two double sleeping-bags provided shelter and bedding. Our
cooking-lamp and table furniture weighed but six pounds.

April 29, a puppy team of eight, born at Fort Conger in November, and trained by Private
Schneider, hauled their first load, 355 pounds. They were worked continuously and judiciously
from that time, and, with others bom later, contributed by their labors most materially to
our geographical success. Without such recruits, the remnants of our original teams, which,
spared by contagion, were necessarily overworked, would have surely failed us.

A hare, a fox, and a ptarmigan were obtained during the month. Two wolves were seen
near Cape Beechey. A snow-bird was first seen on the 14th. To our siirprise, an eagle was
seen on the 4th, and again on the nth.

The thickness of the ice remained nearly constant, being 50.5 inches at the beginning,
and 1.5 less at the end of the month.

The usual observations were made throughout the month.

TilE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Mean pressure, 30.150 [765.8"'"]. The barometer at 2 p. in. April 9 reached 31.000
[787.4"""], a rise of 2.012 inches [51.1"""] (from 28.98H [736.3"""], March 29) in eleven days —
a change possibly nnparallcled in Arctic or other observations.

Temperature-. Mean, — 8.58° [ — 22.5° C] ; ma.ximum, 15° [ — 9.4° C.]; minimum,
— 42.1° [—41.2° C.].

Though one of the coldest Aprils on record, it has been three times exceeded: 1861, Hayes,
Port Fonlke, — 1 1.01° [—23.9° C.]; 1855, Kane, Van Rens.selaer Harbor, — 14.0° [—25.6° C.];
1876, Stephenson, this .station, — 17.27'' [ — 27.4° C.]; and Nares, Floe-ljerg Heach, — 17.96°
[ — 27.8° C], respectively. Lower minima, however, were observed only in 1876 at the two
latter station:?, — 42.5° [ — 41.4° C. ] and — 46.5° [ — 43.6° C], resjjectively.

MAY, 1882.

Dr. Pavy unexpectedly returned May 3 from his sledge trip to the northward. The fol-
lowing summary covers the important details of his journey:

He left March 19 to .search for land north of Cape Jo.seph Henry, and had been particu-
larly instructed to keep a careful lookout for drift-wood, and to bring to Conger all such, in
view of possible tidings of the Jiattnt/Zt', accompanied by Sergeant Rice, »Signal Ser\'ice (the
photographer of the expedition, who had volunteered for the trip). The dog-sledge A/i/o/'/nZ/c,
under Sergeant Jewell, Signal Service, was taken as a supporting sledge as far as Lincoln
Bay, which point was reached in four days. Visiting that depot to take it up, it was found
that the provisions cached at Mount Parry the previous autumn had been visited by a bear,
which ate .seventy pounds of the pemmican, evidently at a meal. Sergeant Jewell, supporting,
left the party March 23 to return to Fort Conger, with the dog-sledge Li7/a and Eskimo Jens
Edward.

On April i, while en route to Black Cape with their last load, a sledge-runner broke at
Cape Union, which involved a delay of five days. Sergeant Rice and Eskimo Jens, making
a remarkable journey (as mentioned in the April proceedings) to Fort Conger, returned on the
6th with a new runner. Starting on the same day, despite bad ice and loss of three days by
stormy weather, all the supplies had been brought up to Cape Joseph Henry, and that point
left by April 20. The ice to the northward appeared to be of the rougliest po.ssible character,
and the course of the party was directed towards Cape Hecla, with the intention of making
a depot there and of traveling thence directly north.

Early the morning of the 22d a violent southeast storm set in. It subsiding, the party
moved towards Cape Hecla, and about 8 a. m. reached a channel of open water. The lane,
as then seen, extended from Crozier Island around Cape Hecla, as far to the northwestward as
could be seen from a high floe. Towards Cape Hecla the lane was a mile in width. A harbor
seal {PAoca hispida)^ much to the excitement of the Eskimo, was seen in open water. By
11.35 a. m. the channel had increased to two miles in width, while the floe moving north-
ward opened out the land to the west of Hecla, so that the three capes — the farthest pre-
sumably Cape Columbia — were seen.

As it seemed probable that open water did or would extend to Cape Joseph Henry, a retreat
was then decided on. Returning immediately to that cape. Dr. Pavy found that his party
was adrift on a pack in the Polar Ocean. Open water for nearly a mile intervened between
them and the nearest land. Nothing was possible except to watch and wait. Fortunately, on
the morning of the 23d a northwest gale set in, and the pack drifting eastward touched Cape
Joseph Henry about 8 a. m. Abandoning their tent, and all but their most essential articles,
they hastened to the land and started southward. Occasional lanes of water with moving
pack were seen until Black Cape was reached ; thence southward only solid ice was met with.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPKDITION.

The party were in a state of licalth durinjf their entire trip of forty-six days.

TeniiK-ratiires of --30" [ — 34° C], and below, were common in the first twenty days;
the lowest hein^j —52" [—.\(^-7" C] March 30, and —56.2° [—49'' C] March 24. On the
former occasion a severe snow-storm followed, (hiring which the temperature in a few hours
rose from — 52° [ — 46.7° C] to — 8.5° [ — 22.5° C.]. The tcnii)erature rose first above zero
[—17.8° C.J the same day as at the station, April 8, 8 p. m. (-1- 4.5°) [— 15.3° C.]. Stormy
weather was frequent, but, as the party traveled when it was in any way possible, only four
days were lost from that cau.sc.

Traveling was excellent from Fort Conger to Cape Heechey ; thence hummocky ice, inter-
sfx^rsed with rubble and occasionally covered with snow, was fomid, which near Wrangel Ray
gave ])lace to large floes and excellent level ice, affording good traveling until at the end of
Lincoln Hay, where the worst kinds of hummocks were met with. From Lincoln Hay
towards Black Cape there was an ice-foot fairly good as far as Cape Union, but beyond exceed-
ingly rough in many places. From Cape Union to Black Cape no large paleocrystic floes
could anywhere be seen, and at Floe-berg Beach, where H. M. S. y-Z/rr/ wintered, 1875-76,
no heavy ice nearer tlian one and a half miles in the offing. From Cape Sheridan to View
Point continuous paleocrystic floes afforded, as a rule, fair traveling. From View Point to
Cape Joseph Henry new level ice was found, which caused Dr. Pavy to travel directly north-
ward instead of crossing Feilden Peninsulaand James Ross Bay to Cape Hecla, as recommended
by me. Dr. Pavy's detailed report, supplemented by Sergeant Rice's account of his detached
trip, ami by his own instructions, forms Appendices Nos. 46, 47, and 48.

May 5, Private Schneider left with puppy team to haul additional supplies to depot B,
near Cape Beechey ; he returned the next day.

On the 7th J returned from the interior of Grinnell Land, having in twelve days (fifteen
marches) traveled two hundred and forty miles with a loaded sledge, besides seventy miles of
separate journeys, making a daily average of twenty-one and a half miles. The route was via
the southwest part of Discovery Harbor, Sun and Conybeare Bays.

The results may be briefly summarized as follows:

Conybeare Bay does not terminate ten miles inward, as supposed by Lieutenant Aich-.r,
R. N., but proves to be a fiord, which I have called Chandler Fiord. Extending from Stony
Cape to the southwest. Chandler Fiord terminates in that direction, about thirty nii.cs inland,
by a bay (Ida Bay), about four by si.x miles in extent. Near Ida Bay the fiord proper turns
iharply to the north-northwcb^: and continues about twelve miles farther.

At the end of Chandler Fiorcl was found what at first sight appeared to be a glacier — rn
almost vertical wall of ice, fifteen feet high and about a mile wide. It proved to be the ice-dam
of a river, from which fresh water oozed in small quantities. Following the river, its very
tortuous course was in general first north and then west-northwest. It was found to have its
source in a lake (Lake Hazen) of remarkable extent. The junction of Lake Hazen and the
river was in latitude 81° 46.5' N., longitude 70° 30' W. Five miles before reaching Lake
Hazen we were extremely astonished to find the ri\er open. The appearance in April at this
latitude of a clear running stream made a marked impression on us, which was not diminished
by a bird (neither snow-bunting nor ptannigan, but of an unknown kind) suddenly flying by.
The open river was about forty yards wide and two feet deep, with ice-walls about ten feet
thick, which, gradually decreasing in thickness, totally disappeared at the edge of the lake,
into which open water extended about a quarter of a mile. It was evident that the stream
flows the entire year, and that at its source it rarely, if ever, freezes. Thin ice, along the
borders of the junction, shows that in extremely cold weather a thin coating of ice forms, which
must very soon be destroyed by the current. Its rapid current (the average gradient of the
river was about twenty feet per mile) and a water temperature of 32. 6° [o. 3° C . ] account for the
stream remaining open.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Lake Hazen was estimated to be nearly sixty miles long and six miles wide. Its general
direction is from east-northeast to west-southwest (true). Its southern shores are bounded by
ranges of low hills, not entirely snow-clad, which extend far to the southward, with no prom-
inent peak visible. Parallel with the northern shore extends a range of mountains, partly
snow-clad, which were called the Garfield Range. Through the valleys of this ra'jge could
be seen occasional peaks of those mountains — covered with eternal snow — which I have called
I \e United States Mountains, retaining the nomenclature, although their location has been
radically changed from that originally given them.

In Lake Hazen several very smai^ ?.'=^ were seen, and along its shore ptarmigan and
hare shot. About a dozen musk-cattle were seen, and evidences were found of exi-^nsive
herds wintering in the adjacent valleys.

The thickness of the ice on Lake Hazen could not be ascertained, owing to the loss of
our ax. Tht surface of the lake was covered with snow from one to two feet deep.

The saslnigi {i. e. , bands of drifted snow) on Lake Hazen indicated plainly that the pre-
\ ailing winds of the past winter had been northeasterly.

Following the shore-line about eighteen miles to the southwest, I crossed the north side
of the lake and visited a large glacier (Henr'^tt?. Nesmith Glacier). This glacier was found
to discharge into a small bay, some four miles deep, and to have a convex-shaped front of
three miles extent. The perpendicular front, which at first had appeared to be of insignificant
size, towered up in an imposing manner on near approach, and proved to vary from about
one hundred and twenty-five to one hundred and seventy-five feet in height. It was lowest
where one of five surface-discharge brooks had worn it down, in the very center. Its extent
inward could not then be determined, as no view reaching more than three or four miles
distance could be obtained, although I ascended the side of an adjacent mountain, which
bears north by east (true).

Knowing tliPt our rations could not carry us farther than we had already explored to the
westward, and fearing the entire breaking up of the river, I returned to Fort Conger, caching
our surplf stores at the river, for the use of a future party. The general health of my party
was excelltiit. I had the misfortune to badly bruise my left foot in rough ice while in the
drag-belt the third day out, and Private Connell twisted his knee in sight of the station when
rettirning; but neither injury was serious.

The ice traveled over was in many places remarkable. For some eight miles in Chandler
Fiord and twenty on the river it was free from snow and so smooth that the sledge and load
could have been drawn by a child. Not over forty miles of really bad ice were met with
during the journey. The weather was perfect and no temperature below — 14° [ — 25.6*^ C]
was experienced. Privates Bender, Connell, and. Whisler endured most cheerfully the pt i va-
tions and hardships incident to the trip, and my success was due to the great endurance and
energy shown by these men.

On May 19 Sergeant Jewell, Corporal Salor, and Private Frederick (one of Lieutenant
Lockwood's supporting parties) returned. They had accompanied Lieutenant Lockwood as
far as Cape Bryant, from wh'ch point he had sent them back, their Hud.son Bry sledges being
in such condition as to render them of no further assistance to him. Sergeants Linn, Ralston,
and Elison had remained at Polaris Coat Camp to await Lieutenant Lockwood's return, in
order to assist him in managing the whale-boat should Robeson Channel in the !nean time
break up. The entire party had been in excellent health during the whole trip.

Lieutenant Lockwood on April 29 was at Cape Brjvint, acro.ss the Polar Ocean, about to
start for Cape Britannia with Sergeant Brainard and Eskimo Christiansen, with the dog-sIeclj;e
Antoinette and twenty-five days' rations.

Thinking it advisable that the party at Polaris Boat Camp should be visited, Pi. Pavy
was sent by me to them on the loth, taking with hin; a small supply of special provisions for
occasional change of their diet. He returned on the i6th via Thank God Ha'.bor, from which

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

place lie brought one Irindred and ten pounds of pennnican, a j^rindstone, and three books
belonging to the f-nglish Arctic expedition. The books were abandoned at Fort Conger. No
written report of this trip was made by Dr. Pavy.

May 15, Privates Long and Whisler started down Archer Fiord to examine the English
depot cached there. They reLurned the 19th, having gone with the Hudson Bay sledge below
Keppel Head, whence Private Long had reached, on snow-shoes. Hillock Depot, where eighty-
four rations were found in good order except the bread. This short journey was made at the
request of Private Long, who was desirous of field service, but was debarred from the longer
journey.'" owing to the advice of the surgeon. Long's report is to be found as Appendix No. 49.

Twc men were occupied the 21st, 24th to 26tli in hauling coal from the mine to the ice-
foot on Water-course Bay. May 24, a garden was dug and planted, which totally failed, owing
probably to alkali or other salts in the earth at the selected spot.

Sergeant Edward Israel, Signal Service, the astronomer of the expedition, and Private
Council left on the 25th to follow up the Bellows and ascertain whether it afforded a practi-
cable route to J^ake Hazen. They returned on the 30th, having reached the end of the valley.
Sergeant Israel determined the position of several points during his absence. About Ihirty-
six musk-oxen were seen and three killed; no more being slaughtered for fear the men.i. would
spoil. Sergeant Israel's report is to be found in Appendix No. 50.

The temperature at 9 a. m. of the 28th rose to 32.5° [0.3° C], after having been continu-
ously below the freezing-point of water two hundred and seventy-two days.

On the 29tli I v" sited Lake Alexandra. May 31, "Decoration Day," was celebrated by
decorating, as far as our means would pennit, the head-stones of the dead of H. M. S. Dis-
covery. The initiative in this matter was taken by the enlisted men of the expedition.

May 31, Sergeant Rice (photographer) was sent with the dof-teams to the Bellows to make
some negatives and bring in the musk-meat. He was accompanied as far as Sun Bay by
Private Biederbick, who was ordered to make half a day's march into Black Rock Vale to
deterini:ie its extent and general direction, with reference to further exploration of the interior.

Game near the station was very scarce ; one hare only was obtained. Two ptarmigau
and two hares were shot on the shore of Lake Hazen. A snowy-owl {Nyctea scandiaca) was
seen on the 8th, and a burgomaster-gull {Larus glancus) on the i4tli. Five square-flipper
seals {Phoca barbaia), weighing in the aggregate 2,717 pounds, were killed.

The harbor-ice attained on May 31 its maximum thickness, 59^ inches, being zoy'^ Miches
thicker than observed by H. M. S. Discovery in the same harbor, 1876. Oil the 31st the ice
in the straits (Robeson Channel, Hall Basin, and Kennedy Channel) appeared as firm and
solid as ever; no water except from tidal cracks was anywhere visible.

The usual observation,- were uninterrupted during the month.

Mean pressure, 30.133 [765.4°""]; temperature +17.41° [ — 8.1° C.]; extremes of tempera-
ture, +33.8° [i.oC] and +1.3° [ — 17.1° C.]. No expedition north of Smith's Sound has
before experienced so warm a May, and none other even in that sound has recorded a May
minimum above zero [ — 17.8° C,]. No temperature below zero [ — 17.8° C] was recorded
by either of Lieutenant Lockwood's parties, but on a single occasion it was noted by me in-
land on Lake Hazen.

The health of the command continued excellent.

JUNE, 1882.

On June i Lieutenant Lockwood returned from tin- exploration of North Greenland
and the discovery of Hazen Coast. The general features ai.d results of the trip are here given,
but correct details are to be found in the very interesting iid excellent report made by Lieu-
tenant Lockwoodj v/hich forms, with his instructions, Appendices Nos. 51, 52, and 53.

T; Ji LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION,

The parties, as before stated, left Fort Conger April 3 and 4. Their energies were first
devoted to accumulating at Polaris Boat Camp, Newman Bay (which place had been fixed
on as the base of operations), stores cached at various depots. Very low temperatures and
a succession of violent gales not only delayed this work, but, entailing on the men severe
physical sufferings, necessarily impaired their strength and energies. The temperature fell
on two days below — 40° [ — 40° C.]; and as low as — 48.8° { — 44-9° C] was recorded. Four
men suffered to such an extent from this work (one from frost-bite, fortunately superficial),
that i* was thought their further continuance with the party would not be conducive to ulti-
mate success, and they were consequently ordered back to the station.

On April 16, however, the party started from Boat Camp for Cape Bryant with 300 rations
for the men and about 350 for the dogs. Over 2,000 pounds were dragged — sledge Antoinette,
hauled by eight dogs, 743 pounds; Hudson Bay sledges Hall, Hayes, and an extemporized
sledge, Narcs, dragged by seven men (Sergeants Brainard, Jewell, Ralston, Linn, and Elison;
Corporal Salor and Privt te Frederick), i, 276 pounds. Average weights, 93 pounds per dog and
182 pounds per man. The route followed (via Gorge Creek and Lost River) left the Cap
Valley of the English to the west, and brought the party out on the shores of the Polar Ocean
somewhat to the eastward of Repulse Harbor. The journey from Boat Camp to Stanton
Gorge was tedious and tr>'ing in the extreme, snow falling the greater part of the time, and
the temperature falling as low as — 40° [ — a^S C.]. Bad traveling made doubling tip (/. e.,
advancing only half the load at a time by the w''.ole party) necessary; and a runner of the
Antoinette breaking caused the abandonment of the Nares. Lieutenant Lockwood's per-
severance <ind energy (he traveling often three times over the same road) continually inspired
the men to renewed exertions, and on the 27th the party, with all its supplies, was at Cape
Brj'ant. The coast line had been closely followed, the party being driven to the floe only
at Black Horn Cliffs. Forty rations cached in 1876 at Stanton G rge by Lieutenant Beau-
mont, R. N., were taken to Bryant; they proved barely eatable.

The rough ice encountered had so damaged the sledge Hayes that it was abandoned, and
feaiing that //i?// would be totally disabled by further advance, Lieutenant Lockwood decided
to send back all of his supporting party and continue onward with the dog-sledge Antoinette.

Lieutenant Lockwood spoke in the highest praise of the extraordinary pluck and energy
displayed by his supporting party, and also of their expressed desire to continue to the north-
ward of Cape Bryant. The trials and sufferings of a party traveling in the fiel'-'. under such
conditions, with temperatures at times below that of freezing mercury, are such that only men
who possess marked mental determination and fine physical powers can ever hope to endure
them.

On April 29 Sergeant Linn and party started on their return to Polaris Boat Camp, while
Lieutenant Lockwood left for Cape Britannia with Sergeant Brainard and Eskimo T. F.
Christiansen. He took twenty-five days' rations, which, with other weights, made a total of
783}^ pounds, or 98 pounds per dog.

Cape Britannia was reached May 4, in six marches, during four of which soft snow, some-
times to the knees, made traveling so bad as to necessitate doubling up. The cape proved to
be in somewhat lower latitude than had been expected; its position is 82° 44' N., 49° 41.5' W.
Lieutenant Lockwood ascended the headland, elevation about 1,930 feet [588"'], which com-
mands an extensive view. He says :

"We were apparently on an island ; its most northern limit ended in a bold headland, a
half dozen miles c'.istant. Away to the northeast (or a little to the Kc^uth of it) was a bold
headland, some fifteen or twenty miles off, the termination of a promortory or an island
stretching to the north. Iietwecu it and me were the projecting capes of three similar bodies
of land further to the right, all separated by great fiords stretching to the south, and over-
lapping one another so that little could be seen to the south of them but a confused mass of
snow-covered peaks.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

"Towards the north and we&i: the eye rested on nothing but the ice pack, till Beaumont
Island was reached ; after that the mountains near Cape Bryant. Stephenson Island is evi-
dently an island, for the opening of a fiord that separates it from Cape May can be seen, and
on its east is an immense fiord running to the south. The two fiords are (to all appearances)
connected. No land is visible at the hej^d of the large one. To the east of this the coast
trended off towaiJs the southeast, forming, with the south side of die Britannia coast, an
immense funnel ending in a fiord. All to the south is an indistinct mass of snow-covered
mountains.

"A cairn was built and a record deposited."

At Cape Britannia were cached five days' provisions for their return, and also every other
article which could be spared, as extra sledge-runner, snow shoes, etc. In starting, May 5,
Lieutenant Lockwood \v .^ thus enabled to travel without doubling up. Following the coast,
which trended first to the north-northwest, Cape Frederick was rounded in latitude 83° 51' N.
and the course then changed to northeast from headland to headland, across fiords and bays.
Fair weather, which had prevailed since leaving Cape Bryant, gave place to wind and snow on
the 7th and 8th, bat the party continued marching, and on the latter day Low Point, temporarily
named Cape Ben^t, 83° 07' N., about 47° W., was reached. Thenceforward Lieutenant
Lockwood had the gratification of traveling on land situated farther ^o the north than had
ever before been known.

The northeast trend continued to Cape Alexander Ramsay (Cape Surprise), beyond which
point it changed to the ^^^. ..o far as Cape Mohn, 83° 10' N., 43° W. (nearly). In one march
more beyond this point to the northeast, made under trying circumstances with high wind
and drifting snow, Cape Hoffmeyer (Storm Cape) was passed, and Mary Murray Island (Shoe
Island) reached — the latitude 83° 19' N., longitude 42° 21' W. Here the storm, which had
alrer.dy continued four davs, attained such violence that further travel was impossible, and
they camped there sixty-two hours. They could ill afford such a delay, and, to counteract
its serious effects on the success of their journey, they decided to eat as rarely as possible, and
permitted intervals of sixteen, twenty-four, and seventeen hours to pass between successive
meals. As the Arctic sledging ration means just enough food to maintain life and vigor, this
resolution on their part shows how strong was their determination for utmost success.

At 12.30 a. m.. May 13, the northeast storm, though continuing with snow, had yet abated
to such an extent that travel was possible, and Mary Murray Island was left to the south-
ward. At noon of that day "The Farthest," an Island, was reached.

This island, the most northerly that man's foot has ever trod, I have named I<ockwood
Island. It is in 83° 24' N., 40° 46' W. Of this point Lieutenant Lockwood' s report says:

" Presently, the weather clearing, a large, wide inlet, with cliffs and mountains on its farther
side, opened up to view, forming a grand panorama, the most remarkable yet observed. To
the right oblique the line of cliffs ended in a cape, from which the coast turned abruptly to
the south, and then ran in a curve toward the southeast, forming from the western shore of
the inlet. Directly ahead was a pyramid-shaped island (Brainard Island) of considerable alti-
tude, which seemed to touch the line of cliffs back of it. This line of cliffi ran almost north
and south, ending in a cape to the northeast of our position (Cape Kane), and, on the other
hand, gradually curving back to the southeast and forming the eastern side of the inlet (Wey-
preclit Inlet). A little to the south of the island refenod to is another, apparently of a cone
shape. The land to their rear towered up to an enormous height, and formed a mountain
cp'-^'inly not less than four thousand feet [1,219"'], completely dwarfing the islands and cliffs
beneath. ' '

Only sufficient food remained to cover the time required by instructions to be spent at
"The Farthest," to determine accurately its latitude and longitude, and to obtain botanical

THE LADY FKANKLIJf BAY EXPEDITION.

and geological specimens. Sets of circiini-nieridian, subpolar, and time observations were
made. These observations, worked up by Gauss's method, give latitude 83° 2.^.8' N., longi-
tude 40° 46' W.

Vegetation was somewhat scantier than to the southward. Quite a number of plants
(saxifrages, grasses, and the poppy) were obtained. Numerous geological specimens were pro-
cured, principally schistose slate. Traces of hares and foxes, feathers of a ptarmigan, and
tracks of a lemming were observed, and snow-birds seen. A lemming was caught near
83° 79'. Musk-oxen and bears are occasional visitors in this locality, traces having been
seen on the coast just north of the eighty-third parallel.

May 14, Lieutenant Lockwood ascended the cliffs overshadowing his camp — elevation
upwards of two thousand feet [616*"]. There the national ensign was given to tlie breeze
in the highest latitude ever reached by man, and on land farther north than any which had
ever before met his vision. For the first time in two hundred and seventy-five years another
nation than England claimed the honors of the farthest north, and the Union Jack gave way
to the Stars and Stripes.

Lieutenant Lockwood, in describing the prospect from the mountain, says:
' ' It commanded a very extended view in every direction. The route of our last journey
laid very distinct. Beyond (Mary Murray Island) Shoe Island lay a dark cape (probably Cape
Alexander Ramsay), but I could not exactly identify it. It bore northwest (mag.) by pocket
compass. Between the cape this side and my position lay the broad fiord last crossed (Wild
Fiord), extending in a curve to the southeast, its course shut out by the high mountains south
of me. To the northeast (about) projected another rocky headland (Cape Kane); to the north
and at its foot I could perceive a low shore projecting out and forming another cape (Cape
Washington) some distance beyond, doubtless separated from the first by a fiord (W. B. Hunt
Fiord) as the first was from the promontory on which we stood. The fiord (Conger Fiord)
jmt to the east extended south until shut out by the mountains south of us, but it presented
every appearance of connecting in that direction with the fiord last crossed. The horizon be-
yond, on the island side, was concealed by numberless snow-covered mountains, one profile
overlapping another, and all so merged together, on account of their universal covering of
snow, that it was impossible to detect the topography of the region. To the north lay an un-
broken expanse of ice, interrupted only by the horizon. Could see no land anywhere between
the two extreme capes referred to, although I looked long and carefully, as also did Sergeant
'Jrainard. Delayed on top twenty minutes. Left a short record in a small tin box under a
few small stones (there were no large ones)."

The most northerly land seen. Cape Washington, was estimated to be in 83° 33' N., and
the most easterly land in longitude 38°.

At the northeast point of Lockwood Island was erected a large cairn, about thirty feet
(9'") above the sea-level, in which were deposited a record of the journey and a minimum
thermometer, which registers to — 65° [ — 54° C.].

Starting May 15, on his return. Lieutenant Lockwood reached Cape Britannia in five
marches and Cape Bryant in nine. Four of these marches were made in stonny weather.
There being but eight days' rations, no delay was practicable. The return rations were ex-
hausted at their last camp, before reaching Cape Bryant. At Cape Bryant one day was given
to the tides, but unfortunately no reliable observations were obtained :

" One cause of want of success seemed to be a tide or current which inclined the rope to
the right (east), and wlien the stone was raised and lowered several times in succession it
seemed to take a different level on each occasion. The divisions on the rope were made with
string tied around it. Several crustaceans were brought from the bottom with the stone.

"Tlie depth of the sea in tidal crack about half a mile from shore was one hundred and
three feet [31'"]."

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

About half a mile inland, and some distance east of Cape Bryant, Lieutenant Beaumont's
cache was found, but no cairn. Quite a number of articles, Enfield rifle, etc., were visible
on the mound, but iio tent, pemmican, or spirits of wine, which, possibly left below the
mound, may have been covered by snow which lay there several feet deep.

Caching all extra supplies at Cape Bryant, for the use of future parties, Lieutenant Lock-
wood left May 26, and passing Repulse Harbor on the 28th, discovered and opened Lieutenant
Beaumont's cairn. The weather being very bad and documents long, he took shorthand
copies and redeposited the originals.

Polaris Boat Camp was reached May 29, and Sergeants Linn, Ralston, and Elison found
in good health. The supporting party had reached the camp. May 5, in six marches. Ser-
geant Jewell, Corporal Salor, and Private Frederick had left May 6 for the home station.

The party remaining had, during their monotonous stay of twenty-five days, experienced
almost constantly violent wind-storms. Two bears had visited the encampment May 17,
while the party were asleep. These animals came from Newinan Bay and went south
along the coast via Cape Sumner.

All extra stores were cached by Lieutenant Lockwood in the whale-boat for future use.

Leaving, May 30, Robeson Channel was crossed in one march ; Cape Beechey, about
thirty miles distant, being reached in thirteen hours' travel. Their course could be deter-
mined only by compass, as a violent northeast snow-storm prevailed. Snow-blindness attacked
three of the party, from which they suffered during the two succeeding marches.

The work of this sledge party extends our knowledge of North Greenland eleven degrees
of longitude to the east, and nearly a degree of latitude to the north.

The new coast — Hazen coast — trending to the northeast, is a succession of high, rocky, and
precipitous promontories, probably the north projections of islands in many cases, with
intervening inlets. Immense fiords extend inland long distances, while the interior of the
country is a confused mass of snow-covered mountains.

A most remarkable feature along the coast was what is termed — in default of a better
name — "The Tidal Crack." This "crack" extended from Cape May to Beaumont Island,
thence to Cape Frederick; and from headland to headland, with gentle curves southward across
the fiords, to Lockwood Island. Whenever the party was driven from a floe to the headland,
it was necessary to cross it, and then a narrow practicable place was readily found, although
the width of it was at times several hundred > ards. Lieutenant Lockwood opines, in which
I concur, that the crack results from the almost constant motion of the Polar pack.

At about 82° 40' N., and 51° W., a sounding was made. Eight hundred and twenty feet
(250"') of line and thongs — everything that was available — were used, but no bottom was
found. In 83° 20' N., 63° W., Commander A. R. Markham, R. N., in 1876 found bottom at
four hundred and thirty- two feet (130™).

The ice-foot was slight and illy-defined north of Cape Bryant. The fiords and bays were
immense expanses of level snow, their regular surface rarely broken by hummock or floe-
berg. This to me seems to indicate that Victoiia inlets are but entrances to a fiord, not to a
strait, and that the interior country is the mainland of Greenland.

The most gratifying feature of this work has been its entire freedom from sickness. One
trifling case of frost-bite and a few slight cases of snow-blindness comprised the list of ailments.

In accomplishing this work, Lieutenant Lockwood displayed remarkable energy, courage,
and perseverance. His success, which I cannot judge as otherwise than as grateful to the
country, was won only by great endurance and much physical suffering on the part of himself
and his party. I cannot but especially invite the attention of the War Department to his
work, and commend his memory to the favorable consideration of his superiors. His labors
in extending northward the limits of Greenland, and later in determining the western outlines
and the interior conditions of Griunell Land, resulted in important additions to our knowledge

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

of the physical features of that part of the Arctic circle. His work reached from Cape Wash-
ington 38° W., to Arthur lyand 83° W., thus covering above the eightieth parallel one-eighth
of the circle of the globe. He worthily upheld the honor of the American for courage, energy,
and perseverance. If his tragic fate awakened the sympathy of the world, none the less
should his successful work receive recognition. He unfortunately did not return for merited
promotion. Under similar ci rcnmstances it would have seemed grateful had my death and
services been announced to the Army in General Orders, and such tribute I trust may yet seem
proper to Lieutenant Lockwood's memory.

Sergeants Linn, Ralston, Jewell, Elison, Corporal Salor, and Private Biederbick were,
separately and collectively, commended by Lieutenant Lockwoc 1 for their energy and the
spirit of determination, alacrity, and willingness shown by them under all difficulties. Al-
though Liun was troubled with snow-blindntss at Cape Bryant, and Frederick had a sprained
knee, both were anxious to go farther. I cannot forbear adding that their excellent conduct
in the field was but in thorough keeping with the general chardCters of all these men. The
Eskimo F. T. Christiansen showed himself attentive, willing, laborious, and very reliable.

No one who is without a practical experience of Arctic field service can fully appreciate
the extraordinary energy and determination which these men must have put forth to accom-
plish so successfully the task put before them. The healthfulness and adaptability of the
different members of the party is shown by their return in perfect health, though, of course,
physically exhausted, despite the fact that the greater part of their marches and encampments
were made without the supervision of an officer.

Of Sergeant Brainard Lieutenant Lockwood says :

"Sergeant Brainard, both when commanding a supporting party and afterwards as one
of the advance partj', showed on all occasions such good judgment, energy, cheerfulness, and
willingness to promote the expedition, that I cannot commend him too highly."

It is justice to add that Sergeant Brainard was, of necessity, repeatedly assigned by me,
in connection with the work of the expedition, to an officer's command, and that his con-
duct was imiformly such as to win commendation. Apart from his valuable services in the
field, I belic'e that he possesses qualities which merit reward, and which would render his
promotion to the grade of second lieutenant in the Army most suitable. I "most heartily and
earnestly recommend such promotion.

On June 2 Sergeant Rice and party returned. Private Biederbick's trip had been successful
and i^roved that inland travel was practicable. He went sixteen miles up Black Rock Valley,
the general direction of which is west-northwest (true). A lake, f ve miles long and nearly a
mile wide, was discovered, which I, at the time, called Lake Heintzelman. Private Biederbick's
report forms Appendix No. 54.

Additional supplies were sent by dog-sledge, under charge of Private Frederick, to Sun
Bay on the 3d. The same day Sergeant Jewell and Corporal Salor were sent to Cape Baird
to examine the depot established the previous autumn. They returned after twenty hours'
travel, being unable to find the tent, which must have been blown down — probably ditring
the violent storm of January 16 — and later covered with drifting snow.

On the 5th Private Connell discovered at Proteus Point, near the station, traces of previous
Eskimo habitation. Search resulted in a number of relics: toggles for dog-traces, spear-
heads, etc. Quite a number of other remains were found along the shore of Discovery Harbor
and near Discovery Cape, which proved the possession by these natives of dogs, sledges, lamps
(stone), wood (in small quantities), the porous bone of the whale, walrus, and narwhal ivory.
One piece of bone-work was especially neat, ingenious, and delicate. Sergeant Brainard later
found numerous traces of summer encampments on the shores of the southwest part of Dis-
covery Harbor and Sun Bay (about sixteen to eighteen miles from Conger). Numerous
remains of hunting implements, dog and sledge gear, etc. , were found. While indications

,i «.

i i

I I

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

o
O

■s E

were in general of summer encampments, one hut, about five feet square, of flat stones,
seemed a habitation of more than transient character. It had sides about one and one-half
feet [.457'ii] high ; the roof had fallen in.

Sergeant L,inn and Private Bender were sent, the 5th, to explore Black Rock Valley, and
ascertain its practicability as a wagon or sledge route to Lake Hazen. They returned the 9th
and reported that the lake could be reached with wagon, but only with great difficulty. They
had reached a point where water drained inland, and whence what was thought to be the eastern
end of Lake Hazen could be seen. A large glacier, which divided into four streams, coiild be
seen, and two small lakes were discovered. Sergeant Linn's report is Appendix No. 55.

On the 8th samples of water were obtained from eight different strata of a paleocrystic floe-
berg, which was about thirty feet (9'") in thickness and above the ordinary ice. These
samples were necessarily abandoned at Fort Conger.

June 9, Sergeant Gardiner and Private Schneider were sent with the dog-team to Cape
Beechey to secure depot B against summer floods, while Sergeant Rice accompanied them to
depot A, Cape Murchison, for photographic work. They all returned on the nth and reported
both depots to be in good condition.

June 10, Lieutenant Lockwood with Sergeant Brainard and ^"kimo Christiansen — all of
whom were but nine days returned from the Discovery of Hazen coast — left with the dog-sledge
AnloiiH'tte on a tentative trip down Archer Fiord. As the snow was melting freely when
they started — temperature during the day as high as 38° [3.3° C] — it was not to be expected
that much distance could be made. Lieutenant Lockwood reached Hillock depot in a march
and a half, whence, as the water on the ice was from ankle to knee deep, he returned, bringing
to Conger the pemmican, bacon, and compressed tea — articles useful for future work. During
the trip three musk-oxen, two geese, and three hares were kiljed. He reached Conger the
morning of the 15th. He found at Hillock depot only eighty-four rations in cases. There
were no signs of the one hundred and twelve rations in bags, nor of the notice relative to them
left by Lieutenant Archer, R. N.

Near the station two musk-cattle were killed on the rath and seven on the 13th; the latter
on the very summit of Uie Sugar Loaf, a very precipitous mountain, eighteen hundred feet
[549™] high. Among this herd were four musk-calves — two bulls and two heifers. They
were captured and brought to the station, and in a few days were tame, tractable, and thriving.
These calves were successfully raised, largely from the efforts of Privates Long, Frederick, and
Connell. It was my intention to send them to the United States by the relief vessel of 1882,
but three of them dying late in October I found it necessary to kill the fourth.

The 13th was marked as being the first day on which the temperature had not fallen below
freezing (0° C.) since August 17, ten months less four days. Taking advantage of the spring
tides from the 17th to the 19th, the launch Lady Greely was moved into a tidal crack. She
had remained safe and undisturbed on the inner ice-foot since September.

On June 24, leaving Lieutenant Lockwood in charge of the home station, I started on a
trip inland into Grinnell Land, taking four men, two of them as a supporting party.

By the i8th all snow had disappeared from the ice in the harbor. From the 28th to the
30th the straits showed large lanes of water, and occasionally fields of ice were in motion.
On the 30th a party — with difficulty, and for the last time during the season — reached Bellot
Island over the ice.

On June i a purple saxifrage {Saxifraga oppositi/olia\ June 2 a willow {Salix antua\
June 5 a sorrel {Oxyn'a tmi/or>nis\ Time 11 a cochlearia {Cochlearia officinalis)^ were found
in flowers. Other plants followed in rapid succession.

Game was more plentiful than in May. One seal {Phoca harbata\ eight hares, two ptar-
raig- • two geese, twenty dovekies, twenty-two ducks (eider, king, and long-tailed), and four-

I i 5

)!l

TOE LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

teen musk-cattle were killed during the month. Two dead wolves— evidently poisoned the
previous winter — were found, (ieese — the first sign of Arctic sunnner — were seen on the 3d,
and on the 4th water ravines were running freely.

The regular magnetic, meteorological observations, and tidal readings were continued
through the month.

Means from hourly observations: Barometer 29.930 [760.2°"°]; temperature, 33.12° [0.6°
C.]; ma.ximum temperature, 53° [11.7° C.]; minimum temperature, 13.2° [—10.4° C.]. The
maximum is the highest ever observed in June by any Arctic expedition north of the seventieth
parallel, while the minimum is the lowest of any known June in or north of Smith's Sound.
The mean is not noticeable, but is 0.6° [.3° C] higher than that noted by H. M. S. Discovery
in 1876 at Discovery Harbor, Fort Conger.

The harbor-ice remained stationary at a thickness of fifty-two inches [1.321'"] from the
1st to the 2ist, but afterwards, with astonishing rapidity, diminished to twenty-nine inches
[•737'"] by J"ly I.

The health of the command was excellent during the month. Sergeant Rice sprained
his ankle on the 25th, but recovered rapidly.

:ii

JULY, 1882.

At 00'' oo", Gottingen time, July i, magnetical readings were commenced, conformable
as far as one instrument would permit, to the programme drawn up by the Hamburg Inter-
national Polar Conference. The readings made were as follows :

Daily observations each hour for declination, five readings at intervals of a minute being
made as recommended by Weyprecht ; on the ist and i5tli of the month five-minute readings
of declination, with twenty-second readings for the selected hour; intensity obser\'ations were
necessarily made on the 2d and i6th, there being no duplicate instrument.

The Kew dip-circle furnished, being unsuitable for use in that locality, prevented at first
observations of that character, but later it was so arranged that one end of the needle could be
read. To avoid any niisaiiprehension in this matter it seems best to state that a dip-circle was
made esjiecially for work at the Lady Franklin Bay expedition, with transverse instead of upright
standards. The late Superintendent of the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, Carlile P.
Patterson, directed that this instrument, which Iwd accidentally been sent to the Coast Survey,
should be sent me, but on opening the instruments at St. John's, Newfoundland, it was found
that some error had been made and an unserviceable instrument forwarded in its place.

Hourly meteorological readings from July i included complete observations except as to
humidity and rainfall, which were noted every fourth hour, six times daily. Hourly tidal
readings were necessarily discontinued after the end of the first year, but the time and heights
of high and low tides were regularly observed the second year.

The ice in the harbor showed signs of breaking up on the ist, at which time it was but
twenty-nine inches [. 737"'] thick.

Corporal Salor and Private Whisler, supporting party to Lieutenant Greely, returned on
the 3d. The same day Sergeants Elison and Private Long visited Lake Alexandra, where
but little open water was found.

The 4tli of July was celebrated as fully as circumstances permitted, by the display of flags,
shooting matches, base-ball, races, etc.

On the 5th, owing to continued warm and wet weather, the musk-cx meat killed that
summer commenced spoiling, and over fifteen hundred pounds had to be fed to our dogs.

On the 6th Private Biederbick returned, having been sent back from Very River by
Lieutenant Greely. Privates Long and Kllis were sent to depot B for a pair of small oars on
the 7th, but finding on the shore of vSt. Patrick Bay a pair, which had evidently been aban-
doned by the English expedition of i875-'76, returned with those.

If' I

3 5

n
•«

THE LADY FUANKLIX BAY EXPEDITION.

On the morning of the 9th the ice in the harbor commenced breaking np. Steam was
got up on the launch Lady Grtily, and she was run a short distance in the harbor. ( )n the
loth slie was run twice to Dutch Island.

Lieutenant (ireely and Sergeant Linn returned in the midst of a snow-storm from the
trip into the interior of Grinncll Land the afternoon of the loth.

The general outlines of my journey were as follows :

Left Fort Conger June 26 with four men, an improvised cart being our means of trans-
portation. Traveling on ice to the southwest part of Discovery Harbor, I followed up the
Black Rock Vale, and, striking across the country, made camp No. 3 on Lake Appleby, in
sight of and about eight miles from Lake Hazen, latitude 81° 55' N., longitude 68° 06' W.,
magnetic variation (observed) 103° 30'. This, with Lake Rogers and others, forms a chain
which drains a considerable section of the country inland to Lake Hazen. Lake Rogers has
the greatest elevation, about eighteen hundred feet [549"']. This lake although only about
two miles distant from Lake Appleby, is about five hundred feet [153"'] above it. In one lake
several fish, over an inch long, were caught, and on its shores a piece of lignite coal was found.

Striking Lake Hazen, the party traveled about fifteen miles westward to the junction of
a river, by which the lake discharges into Hall Basin, via Chandler Fiord and Lady Franklin
Bay. Over the frozen surface of this river Lake Hazen had been reached the previous spring.

At two points on the lake, east of the river, Eskimo relics were found, indicating at least
summer encampments, but at the junction of the river and Lake Hazen, on both sides of the
stream, were found the remains of habitations which evidently in previous ages had been
permanently occupied. A wooden sledge (nearly complete) shod with bone, parts of hunting-
gear, portions of dog-harne.ss, skinning-knife with iron blade, combs (two ornamented) com-
prise the major part of the list of articles found. Narwhal and walrus ivory, porous bones of
the whale, and wood were the principal substances. Bones of the musk-ox, wolf, fox, and
hare in abundance, a piece of reindeer horn, and the bone of a lish were found.

Quite a collection of reindeer horns was made from various poir'^' along the shores ot
the lake and adjacent valleys. From this place my supporting party ^^Corporal Salor and
Private Whisler) turned back, leaving me yet Sergeant Linn u 'i Private Biederbick. About
twenty miles farther the wagon, before frequently disabled, broke ^^(Avn completely. The
tent, and everything not indispensable, were abandoned, and we started on ; the men carrying
on an average seventy pounds, and I thirty-one and occasionally seventy pounds.

Two marches brought us to camp No. 8, Very River, on July i. Private Biederbick,
who had overtaxed his strength in his zeal, here showed signs of sickness from overwork, and,
though willing to proceed, I deemed it best for him to return to Fort Conger. It was a
doubtful question whether I should send him back alone a distance of one htnidred and
twenty-five miles; but to have decided otherwise would have entailed the entire abandonment
of the jouniey. On Biederbick's pressing representations that he could make the journey
safely I finally decided to send him, directing him to stop at one of onr caches in case he grew
worse. He reached Fort Conger safely July 6. In consequence of Biederbick's return a por-
tion of our provisions was necessarily cached. On leaving camp No. 8, Sergeant Linn carried
sixty-four pounds and I forty-seven pounds besides my sextant.

Following the southeastern side of Very River, which stream was nowhere fordable, the
eleventh camp was made in latitude 81° 21' N., longitude 74° 04' W., magnetic variation
(observed) 1 14° W. Just before making this camp snow was met with for the first time.
Starting the next day. July 4, but finding the country covered with from one to three feet of
snow, underlain with water, a few hours convinced me that much farther progress was im-
practicable. Our boots, too, were nearly worn out by the rough traveling. To settle the
question, I decided dropping everything but the glasses and compasses, and to climb a high
mountain about four miles distant We started at 9 a. m. for the mountain, and at i p. m.,

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

after most stretmous exertions, I reached the summit in a thoroughly exhausted condition.
Sergeant Linn, owing to a lame knee, had been unable to proceed farther than the base of
Mount Linn, an adjoining mountain of much less prominence. The elevation of the mountain
ascended by me was forty-five hundred feet [1,372"'], seven hundred feet [213'"] higher than
any other knoivn peak in Grinnell Land. I have named it Mount C. A. Arthur. From its
summit all Grinnell Land seemed stretched out bd'ore me. Fortunately, after four days of
clouds and rain, the weather was clear and the atmosphere in a state of visibility. Except a
narrow pencil of clouds to the southward, which veiled the immediate land in that direction,
while disclosing the summits of certain snow-clad peaks, scarcely a cloud was visible. No
mountain beyond Mount Augur, the most westerly of the Garfield range, had before been
seen. To my surprise, a second range (Conger Mountains), partly snow-clad, extended west-
ward about fifty miles, and appeared thence to gradually trend northward. These mountains
were separated from the Garfield range by a valley of considerable width. Between Conger
Mountains and the United States Mountains (I comprise under the latter name all mountains
entirely snow-clad) there was a valley which apparently widened to the westward. This valley
appeared to drain into Lake Hazen by the break between the two moimtain ranges, some eight
or ten miles west of Lake Hazert. No glacier could be seen in that direction.

North of the Garfield range there was a valley visible north of Mount Augur [Mount
Biederbick], but it soon closed to the eastward, and the range appeared to crowd closely against
the Snowy range. The United States Mountains covered the noithern horizon fr ,i\\ about
northeast (true) to northwest, an immense area of mountains, entirely ice-clad, about sixty
miles by twenty. Their northe-n limit as seen could not average much less than sixty miles,
as beyond Henrietta Nesmith Glacier, which was over forty miles distant, the range could be
seen for twenty miles at least. These mountains resemble rather snow-clad, gently rounded
hills, tl'.'^re being no dist'nct range, but merely a confused mass of mountains beyond mount-
ains. They must have been of lower ele\'ation than Mount Arthur. From west-southwest
(true) to southwest a slight depression of Hie intervening bare hills disclosed a range of mount-
ains, partly snow-clad, which could not possibly have been nearer than seventy-five miles. I
thought it probable they were farther distant, and that they vere situated not in Grinnell
Land but on an island or land westward. Lieutenant Lockwoot's discoveries in the follow-
ing year leaves no doubt that the mountains seen were those to the south and westward of
Greely Fiord, possibly including the high land seen by him on Arthur Land.

From northwest to southwest, within a radius of seventy miles, could be seen nothing but
low hills, entirely free from snow (except within ten or fifteen miles of Mount Arthur), which
were intersected with numerous ravines. Their appearance was identical with that presented
by . ,e parts of country traveled over from Lake Hazcn. Due south was a prominent mountain
peak, and southeast a second mountain, probably a peak of the Victoria and Albert Mountains,
and nearly east what I took to be Mount Neville, with a peak just north of it. Intennediate
between Mount Arthur, Lake Hazen, Chandler and Archer Fiords, only low hills, /. ^., from
fifteen hundred to twenty-fivc hundred or three thousand feet, 457 to 76c or 914 meters (which
were all bare, a patch of snow being exceptional), were visible. The summit of Mount Arthur
was an expanse of level snow, half a mile in diameter. Trying the compass on the s'low io
obtain bearings, I found eve.y mountain disnppcar from view, and standing I was unable to
obtain any satisfactory readings All bearings were determined approximately from tlie sun.

My stay on the summit: of Mount Arthur did not exceed twenty minutes, as I feared
perishing, owing to my exhausted condition, the prevalence of a strong, cold north wind, and
the absence of any sensation in my feet.

Rejoining Sergeant Linn, a small cairn was erected at the base of Mount Linn, in which
a record was placed. Swollen ice-cold rivers to be forded and no sun to dry our clothing, was
the story of the return. F'or five days we were without dry clothing, and were obliged to

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXrEDITION.

get 'jtich rest as was possible from a blanket of single thickness, on moist gronnd, with ice
freqnently forming around ns.

In crossing the deep river in Black Rock Vale Sergeant Linn was carried off his feet by
the current and escaped only by swimming. I was soaked to my breast in crossing, and only
saved note-book and chronometer by holding them above my head. We nearly perished with
cold after this bath while traveling to the depot on the southwest shore of Discovery Harbor,
three miles or more distant. The temperature was less than two degrees [i.i° C] above the
freezing-point [o° C], and a high wind blowing, which rendered progress difficult and be-
numbed us with its cold.

Some difficulty was experienced the next day in crossing Discovery Harbor to Fort
Conger, the ice having partly broken up. At times it was necessary to wade waist deep
through channels and brooks which covered the surface of the floe.

The important result of the journey was the discovery of the main topographical features
of Grinnell Land. The existence of an interior lake of such dimensions as Lake Hazen (which
covers probably three hundred square miles), shows with what rapidity the numerous ravines
must drain the country, and explains why the entire country is not ice-capped. Glaciers were
seen only where the Garfield range pressed closely against the United States Mountains, evi-
dently offshoots of the enormous ice-cap which covers the northern moiMitains.

The vegetation of Very Valley was remarkable for its amount. At least a hundred musk-
oxen were .seen in it, and on adjacent hills. That valley, for some miles up, was several miles
wide and resembled many which I have seen in our territories. The valleys of the tributary
rivers seemed to closely resembk the main valley. It was a matter of regret that none of them
could be reached. Very River not being then fordable. This river in the lower valley was
half a mile wide, with a moderate current; in the upper valley though rarely over one-eighth of
a mile wide, it ran with great rapidity. Vegetation was also luxuriant on the hills and in
the valleys bordering Lake Hazen, though occasionally barren hills were found. The vege-
tation at Discovery Harbor, though luxuriant, seemed somewhat scanty after my return,
suffering from comparison with that of the inland country.

Near camp I, on Lake Heintzelman, were found, about thirty feet [9'"] above the lake, the
trunks of two large coniferous (pine?) trees, partly embedded in the hill-side. One was with
difficulty dug out, and proved to be ten feet [3-048"'j long and sixteen inches [.406'"] in
diameter ; there were yet attached the remains of two large branches. Although partly de-
composed, it served fairly as fuel. The second was too deeply covered to permit its removal.
The portion seen was si.x feet [1.829"'] long and twelve inches [.305'"] in diameter. These
trees were more than two hundred feet [61'"] above and nearly seven miles distant from tide-
water. The presence of trees and small shells, which to that point were common, shows con-
clusively that the interior valley had been at no distant day washed by the sea.

The energy and endurance of Private Henry Hiedcrbick, and uspecially of Sergeant David
Linn, insured the marked success of this inland journey. Sergeant Linn traveled for the last
four marches outward with an injured knee, and when he reached the home station his ankles
were so injured from rough travel that they were over a month healing. The exceedingly
rough and trying conditions of this overland travel were such as to completely wear out all
our boots, although they were new at starting.

From the western part of Lake Hazen to Discover)' Harbor, over fifty miles of very rough
country, Scrgea. t Linn and I carried on our backs, in addition to our camp outfits, about fifty
pounds of Eskimo bone implements. T' ese relics, associated with the farthest wanderings in
the past ages of the most northerly people of the world, were necessaril)' abandoned at Fort
Conger, but photographs of them were saved and a ;. herewith reproduced.

The farthest reached, the summit of Mount Ardiur (elevation 4,500 feet) [1,372'"], was in
latitude 81° 14' N., longitude 74° W., and to reach that point at least 175 miles outward
travel from Fort Conger was necessary.
H. Mis. 393 A

THE LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

The magnetic variation observed at the farthest camp, about seven miles north-northeast
(true) of Moiait Chester A. Arthur, was 114" W. At the mouth of Cobb River (a temporary
name given to the small river directly south of Henrietta Nesmith Glacier) on the south side
of L,ake Hazen, the variation observed was 108° W.

On July 20, in accordance witli his request, the renewed contract of Dr. Pavy, as acting
assistant surgeon of the expedition, contained a clause giving him transportation, on fi. al dis-
charge, to Saint Louis, Mo. The new contract was for at least one year, and its terms were
identical with the original contract. The oath of service was formally administered by me
to Dr. Pavy on that day.

Thin ice formed on pools near the station early in the morning and late in the evening of
the 12th. From the 13th to the 15th 0.76 inch [19"""] rain fell.

Sergeants Brainard and Cross reached Bellot Island by boat on the 17th. On the 22d Pri-
vate Ellis reported seeing a walrus off Distant Cape. If a walrus was seen, it I'lust be con-
sidered as a certain indication that the straits below to Kane Sea were unusually free from
ice, a condition which, without much doubt, existed.

Sergeant Brainard and party started on a hunting trip to Cape Beechey on the 23d, and
returned on the 27th. They killed eight musk-cattle, twenty-two geese, and two goslings.
Privates Henry and Whisler, absent at the same time at the entrance of Black Rock Vale fur
Eskimo relics cached there, killed a hare and two musk-cattle. Game near the station was
found in fair quantities. One hare, nine ducks, twenty-four geese, and ten musk-cattle were
killed. Not \ncluded as game, may be mentioned four ermines killed and thirteen young
owls captured. Two foxes were wounded but none secured.

Additional Eskimo remains were found near the station on various dates.

The ice in the straits naturally varied with every tide. From July 16 there had been
but a few days on which a vessel reaching the southern entrance of Kennedy Channel could
not have rounded Cape Lieber and entered Discovery Harbor. On the 28th a heavy gale was
experienced. During its continuance (but not at its height as indicated at the station) the
wind on Cairn Hill blew at a velocity of forty-eight miles per hour [21.5™] per second.

Magnetical, meteorological, and tidal observations were regularly made.

Means (from hourly observations) : Barometer, 29.714 [754-7"'"]; temperature, 36.82°
[2.7° C.]; maximum temperature, 53° [11.7° C.]; minimum, 29° [ — 1.7° C.]. While the mean
temperature is 0.4° [.2° C] lower than any recorded by any expedition in or north of Smith
Sound, the extremes agree closely with others in that latitude.

The health of the command continued excellent. The garden, I regret to say, proved a
total failure despite all care.

AUGUST, 1882.

Preparations were made in the first days of the month for the arrival of the expected
relief steamer. I'roperty returns were brought up to date, and copies made of all ob-ervations
taken during the preceding year.

During the first few days the ice broke up rapidh-, and on the 4th I was able to send Ser-
geant Brainard and a party with the whale-boat i the southwest point of Discovery Harbor,
to bring in the musk-cattle which had been killed there.

By the 7th Hall Basin was so free from ice that I decided to visit Cape Cracroft in the
laimch, with the hopes of seeing a steamer to the south. That point was reached without
difficulty, and from an elevation of over two hundred feet [61™] a fine view was had to the
southward. The eastern half of Franklin Island could be plainly seen, and no ice was visible
to the southward except very rare floc-bcrgs of small dimensions. The sky to the southward of
Franklin Island was carefully examined with glasses, and was free from any signs of an ice

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION

^*?

blink. Kennedy Channel was in effect freer from ice than we had found it in 1881. While
examining the ice to the southward, Sergeant Gardiner discovered fossils to be very abundant
in the rocks and a fine collection was made.

No signs of a vessel aijpearing, on August 12 I ordered Lieutenant Lockwood to visit the
head of Archer Fiord with the launch, and he left on the following day. His orders required
him not to be absent exceeding seventy-two hours, and during that time he was to acquire
such knowledge as would be valuable in connection with the proposed crossing of Grinnell
Land. He left on the 13th and returned the i6th. His report of the trip forms Appendix
No. 56. During his absence he killed twelve musk-o.xen, three hares, and about sixty birds,
which supply of fresh meat contributed materially to our health during the second winter.
Tventy-eight other musk-cattle were seen on the south side of the fiord but the launch being
short of coal Lieutenant Lockwood did not delay for them.

On the 19th, having but faint hopes of a vessel. Lieutenant Lockwood was ordered into
Chandler Fiord to make a survey, and Dr. Pavy at the same time was ordered to examine
Daly Peninsula for an overland route from Cape Baird southward to Cape Defosses or Carl
Ritter Bay. Lieutenant Lockwood left on the 30th, but being unable to cross Archer Fiord
to land Dr. Pavy at Cape Baird, was obliged to return, but left the following day, landing
Dr. Pavy at Cape Baird and proceeding to Chandler Fiord, whence he returned on the 23d.
He was unable to reach the extreme end of Chandler Fiord owing to the large amount of
heavy ice )'et in it. He succeeded, however, in surveying the eastern half of the fiord, and
Sergeant Rice obtained two excellent photographs, showing the fiord to the eastward and to
the westward. Lieutenant Lockwood's report forms Appendix No. 57.

Sergeant Brainard was ordered, with five men, on August 25, to bring the whale-boat from
Cape Beechey, where she had been cached the preceding year. The party returned with the
boat on the 27th, just after Lieutenant Lockwood had left in the steam launch for Cape Baird
to bring back Dr. Pavy and Sergeant Ellison.

Dr. Pavy found that the valley near Cape Baird extends to the ' ' divide' ' at a point about
five miles from Cape Defosses, from which point another broad wide valley of easy grade descends
to Kennedy Channel. The valley near Baird was filled with a river which I named Pavy River.
The river at four points enlarges into lakes of moderate size. From an elevation of seven hun-
dred feet [213'"] at Cape Defosses, no ice could be .seen in Kennedy Channel, or as far south
as the eye could reach, a distance of about thirty-five miles. The farthest point reached was
our depot in Carl Ritter Bay. No written report of this trip was made by Dr. Pavy, but a
report from Sergeant Ellison forms Appendix No. 59 and Dr. Pavy's orders. No. 58.

On August 28 I gave up all hopes of the ship, and ordered Lieutenant Lockwood to pro-
ceed with the launch to the head of Archer Fiord for exploration, and to leave the ■whale-boat
with a depot at Cape Lieber, en route. A southerly gale with snow prevented his koving on
the 29th, and the large amount of ice which filled the straits on the succeeding day decided
me to countennand his orders. On the 31st the harbor was filled with pack-ice, and as young
ice had commenced forming slowly, I decided to lay up the launch at Dutch Island.

The party was very successful in obtaining game during August. Thirty-three musk-
cattle were killed, twelve of which had been obtanied by Lieutenant Lockwood in Archer
Fiord, as already stated, and eight killed by Sergeant Long in St. Patrick Valley. Eleven
hares, two fiord seals, thirty-seven ducks, thirty-two ptarmigan, thirteen dovekies, and about
seventy-five smaller edible birds were also obtained.

The mean temperature, 35.3° [1.8° C], was unusually high for an Arctic station, and
remarkably so considering the latitude of Fort Conger. An unusually high maximum, 47.8°
[8.8° C], was recorded on the 21st, and a mininunn of 22.8° [ — 5.1° C] on the 3i3t. The
temperature fell permanently below 32° [0° C] on the morning of the 29th, one day earlier
than the preceding year. Observations were continued during the month with the customary
regularity.

TUK LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

SEPTEMBER, 1882.

On September i it became necessary, in view of the non-arrival of a relief ship, toarranpje
for a second winter in accordance with e.\isting supplies. Vegetables, milk, sugar, and flour
had been previously used at pleasure and without limit. To insure equitable distribution
through the coming year the following weekly allowance was necessary : Vegetables, forty-two
ounces; milk, nine ounces; sugar, twenty ounces; flour, cornmeal, etc., forty-seven ounces.
Bread, salt meats, molasses, apples, and other fruits in natural juice, butter, pickles, preserves,
jellies, and many other articles remained in sufficient quantities to render their limitation for
the second year unnecessary.

On September r we camenear losing our launch owing to its having been anchored in an
insecure position near Dutch Island. I fortunately visited her early that morning, to inspect
her condition, and succeeded in obtaining assistance in time to save her; however, some small
stores were spoiled through her partly filling with water.

On the 2d I commenced sjstematic work ; arranging my reports and obser\'ai"ons in such
a manner that complete records could be easily transported in case a boa. ;.,.irney in 1883
should be necessary. This work was continued unremittingly until August 5, 1883, and
thereby the complete scientific observations were reduced to such condition that they were
ultimately brought in safety to the United States.

On the 3d the sun set for the first time, and on the ensuing day preparations were made
fbr winter by replacing the inside windows.

The launch was secured fov the winter during the spring tide of the 17th. On this day
Sergeant Israel while skating broke through the ice and came near drowning. He was
rescued with some difliculty, suffering, however, no harm from his immersion.

Lieutenant Lock' 'jod on the 24th was sent, at his own request, up Black Rock Vale with
dog-sledge, to ascertain whether autumn travel was possible inland. He returned on the 27tli,
bringing a musk-ox killed by Christiansen some three miles above Lake Heintzelman. That
lake was found covered with clear smooth ice already a foot [. 305"'] thick. The trip showed
the general impracticability of sledging to Lake Hazen overland.

During the month one musk-ox, two hares, three seals, and three ptannigans were killed
and two foxes captured. By the early part of the month all birds had departed, except our
regular habitant, the ptarmigan, and an occasional owl or raven. The station was visited on
September 30 by a bear, which was not seen, iK^wever.

The mean temperature was 18.1° [ — y.y° C], with a maximum of 27.4° [ — 2.6° C] on
the 5th, and a minimum of o°.7 [ — 17.4° C] on the 21st. The minimum occurred on the
same day on which the temperature fell below zero [ — 17.8° C] in 1881. The early part of
the month was unusually warm, the first eight days being three degrees [1.7° C] warmer
than for the corresponding period in 1881.

A great deal of open water was seen in and around the harbor and in Robeson Channel
until aftt r the 20th.

OCTOBER, 1882.

On October 2 Sergeant Linn was reduced to the grade of private for disrespectful lan-
guage. Save this indiscretion. Sergeant Linn's conduct was irreproachable during his entire
service, and a year later I reappointed him sergeant.

On the 2d a bear was seen, which had several times visited the station, but escaped
although pursued. In coiniectiou with his appearance, restrictions were for the first time
placed on the men's movements, and for absences for greater distances than a third of a mile

TUK LADY PKANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

verbal authority was required. No other bear appearing, the limits were increased to two
miles late in January, the sergeant on duty, however, to be notified when going further than
three-quarters of a mile.

The temperature was observed below zero [ — 17.8° C] on the 4th, for the first time that
autumn. Auroras were frequently noted during the month. The sun left us on the i6th
and darkness increased so rapidly that Jupiter was visible at local noon of the 24th, and four
first-magnitude stars on the 28th.

In view of the evident inclination on the part of many of the men to keep their beds
excessive hours, an order was issued forbidding the use of the beds on week days between 8
a. m. and 3 p. m. , except in special cases.

As soon as the ice around Distant Cape would bear, which was the i.ith of October,
parties visited Cape Beechey and St. Patrick Valley to bring in the musk-meat cached at
those points. Unfortunately an entire ox had been eaten at Cape Beechey, probably by bears
and foxes ; and fully half of the meat in St. Patrick Bay had been devoured by foxes, which
had effected an entrance into the stone huts which had been built to protect it.

The firstoccultat] k: obtained was observed on the 24th. It was theoccultationof (y/V>f/«w/.
The immersion took place at S"* 27™ 29.9', by chronometer (Bond & Son's) No. 198, which was
fast of local sidereal time 4'' 32" 24.7'.

On the 26th systematic observations were commenced of the temperature of the surface
sea- water, with a view to ascertaining whether the temperature of the flowing tide varied from
that of the ebbing tide.

The health of the party continued excellent, and at the end of October but two men were
taking medicine — one for a slight attack of indigestion, and the other, iron for his blood.

I inaugurated a series of lectures for the winter, and was assured co-operation from Dr.
Pavy and Sergeant Israel, my astronomer.

On October 22 Dr. Pavy, at his expressed desire, was ordered to proceed as far southward
as practicable along theGrinnell Land coast to look for caches or any signs of a visiting vessel.
He was accompanied by Sergeant Brainard and Eskimo Jens.

The harbor-ice increased a foot [305'"'"] in thickness during the month and was 23^
inches [59711111] thick on November i. The fresh-water ice on Lake Alexandra, however, had
attained a t? ickness of thirty inches [762™'"] by the 25th.

No game was killed during the month, though a ptarmigan and an owl were seen on the
I2th. The bear on the 2d was the only one seen at Conger, although tracks were noted
occasionally on the shores of Robeson Channel. Three of the musk-calves, kept with great
trouble by us, died during the month, and a fourth one was killed. The cause of their death
was attributed by me to lack of exercise, caused by their being necessarily penned up the
greater part of the time to protect them from the dogs.

A .series of observations on the velocity of sound at low temperatures was commenced
during October, and continued during the entire winter. Observations and results form
Appendix No. 137.

On October 15 observations of high and low waters were commenced on fixed tide-gauge
No. 6, which was located for winter observations.

The mean temperature for the mouth was — 7.8° [ — 22.1° C], with a maximum of 14°
[ — 10° C] on the ist, and a minimuiu of — 23.5° [ — 30.8° C] on the 19th. The temper-
ature fell permanently below zero [ — 17.8° C] on the i^th; sixteen days earlier than in the
preceding year. The month v.as e <treinely cold, lower means having been noted only on
two other expeditions; one of which was at the same station in 1875.

THE LADY FEANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

NOVEMBER, 1882.

On the ist a meteor of a blue color was observed about 10.40 p. m. A heavy detonation
was heard upon its disappearance. At i a. m. November 14 a remarkable meteor was noted,
which must have been visible at least five minutes. A list of meteors observed during the
two years at Fort Conger fonns Appendix No. 138a.

On the 5th, Dr. Pavy and his party returned. They had gone as far as Carl Ritter Bay,
traveling overland from Cape Baird to Cape Defosses, thence along the coast. Heavy ice
was found in motion in Kennedy Channel ; and south of Carl Ritter Bay water-clouds were
visible for some distance, and to the south there was an ice blink. A musk-ox was killed by
Sergeant Brainard on the ist near Cape Defosses. This was the only game procured during
the month except a fox, and harbor-seal of twenty-eight pounds (which was killed in the
tide-hole), although a number of hares were seen. A detailed report of this trip by Sergeant
Brainard fonns Appendix No. 60. No written report was made by Dr. Pavy.

Auroras were frequently noted during the month. The most remarkable displays occurred
from the nth to the 18th, attended between these dates with heavy magnetic disturbances.

On the 24th the light of the full moon was determined at 9 p. m. , by a grease-spot pho-
tometer, and found equal to the light of an adamantine star-candle at a distance of 49^
inches [1.257'"]. -^^ 10 p. m. the thermometers in the inner instrument-shelter were read by
moonlight, and diamond type was read with ease. My astronomer's opinion agreed with my
own, that such clear light had never been noted by either of us in lower latitudes.

November 30 was designated by orders (Appendix No. 61) as Thanksgiving day, and
was celebrated as elaborately as our means would pennit.

During the magnetic storm of November 17 five-minute readings were continued until
9 p. m. (Washington mean time) November 18. The range of the needle during the 17th
was considerably over nineteen degrees. At 8.35 a. m. (Oottingen mean time) November 17
the needle had moved 20° 28.2' to the westward and stood at 113° 19.8' W., the largest
recorded magnetic variation within my limited knowledge.

The health of the party at the end of the month was excellent. Besides geese and hares,
a pound and a half of fresh meat was issued on alternate days.

The harbor ice increased a foot [305'""'] in thickness during the month.

The mean temperature for November was — 28° [ — 33.3° C], with a maximum of — 1.1°
[ — 18. 4° C] on the 15th and a minimum of — 46° [ — 43.3° C] on the 29th. It was the coldest
November experienced by any Arctic expedition. The mean temperature for the first nine
days was — 23.4" [ — 30.8° C], or 11° [6.1° C] below that for the same period the previous
year, which was the coldest November on record. Frozen mercury was first noted on the

9th, as against the 14th in 1881.
mercury has been noted.

This is probably the earliest date in a winter on which frozen

DECEMBER, 1882.

The aurora was noted daily from the ist to the 17th, inclusive, with exception of the
13th. During these displays the magnet was generally quiet, but a heavy disturbance occurred
on the 19th, at which time the weather was overcast. It may here be noted as a general
result of our observations, that our magnetic disturbances were generally co-existent with
displays of aurora which showed prismatic colors and during which marked and sudden changes
of form occurred. On the other hand the magnet remained quiet during the prevalence of
colorless aurora which was slow-moving as regards change of position or tuichanging in shape.

An electrical self-registering tidal-gauge was devised by me and ptit in operation during
the month with excellent results, showing the possibility of such an apparatus for use in high
latitudes. The records were too bulky for packing and were left at Fort Conger.

IHB LADY FRANKLIN BAT EXPEDITION.

By the early part of the month the outer wall, built as a protection to th.» house, was
completed. It consisted of an ice-wall about a foot thick [305°""'], running^ to the craves, and
the space between the ice-wall and house was later filled in with dry snow, so that the entire
thickness of the protecting wall ranged from a base of seven feet [2.134'"] to an apex of two
[610™"'].

On the 8th we experienced a touch of the Greenland foehn; the barometer rose a quarter
of an inch [6"""] during the day; from 10 a. m. to 2 p. m. strong southeast to southwest wind
puffs were experienced ; the temperature rose thirteen degrees [7.2° C] in a single hour, and
later in the day fell as much in two hours.

Christmas was celebrated in the usual manner, but was hardly as great a success as that
of the previous year. The health of the party at the end of the month was good.

The mean temperature was —27.8° [ — 32.2° C], with a maximum of +5.5" [ — 14.7° C]
on the 26th and a minimum of —43.9° [ — 42.2° C] on the 31st. This month was one of the
rare instances in Arctic observations when the mean temperature of December has been above
that of November.

No game was killed during the month, but ermine and hare tracks were seen, and on
two occasions the howling of a wolf was heard.

The sea ice increased eight inches [203°""] in thickness against one foot [305"""] in No-
vember, and was forty-five inches [1.143'"] thick on the ist of January.

JANUARY, 1883.

Auroras occurred frequently during the month, unaccompanied, as a rule, by marVaH
magnetic disturbances.

The temperature being very low, on the ist and 2d many of the thermometers were tested
in freezing mercury [ — 37.9° F.]. On January 4 the carelessness of the observer caused
a slight fire in the officers' quarters, which fortunately did no damage, owing to the self-
possession and prompt action of Lieutenant Lockwood.

On the 26th an order was issued for the exact guidance of the observers in meteorological
and magnetical observations, the general substance of which had been the habitual practice
of the observers.

During the early part of the month the launch was slightly injured by the movement of
the ice during a storm, but the damage was such that it was easily repaired.

On the i8th light snow fell at a remarkably low temperature for precipitation, from
-38° [-38.9° C] to -39° [-39-4° C.].

During Januarj' no game was killed, but hare and ermine tracks were observed.

The health of the party was good during the month. A little over thirteen ounces of fresh
meat was used per man daily. For a few daj's an extra allowance of fresh meat was '^iven
Private Biederbick for rheumatism, and to Eskimo Jens Edward on account of his small
appetite, which was attributed by the doctor to home-sickness. This was the first special
diet prescribed by the doctor during our service of nearly a year and a half at Fort Conger.

Several hourly magnetic readings were missed through breakages of the suspension-thread
of the magnetometer.

The mean temperature of January v.-iis — 35.8° [ — 37.7° C], with a maximum of — 18°
[ — 27.8° C] on the 5th, and a minimum of — 30.6° [ — 45.9° C] on the i6th. The barom-
eter touched 29.122 [739.7°""] on the 25th.

FEBRUARY, 1883.

I decided on the propriety and necessity of commencing the establishment of a depot of
provisions at Cape Baird, for use during retreat in case the relief vessel should not reach Lady

THE LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Franklin Bay, and on the ist of the month Sergeant Brainard with Kskimo Christiansen and
(log-team commenced the work. The surgeon of the expedition officially and professionally
objected to it, on the ground that any work in the field was exceedingly dangerous at such an
early period of the year. The work, however, was carried on at various dates throughout the
month, without injury from frost-bite or in any other manner, and the stores thus accumulated
were of primary importance later in the year.

An observation of the movement of the harbor ice, on the 7th, showed thai the flo'. had
moved since the middle of October twelve and one-half feet [3.810'"] in a straight line to
the south-southwest, which was offshore. During its irregular movement, however, the en-
tire movement must have been aboui twenty feet [6.096°'].

But few stars could be seen on the 7th at local noon, and thermometers were n ^.1 lor i.iree
hours without artificial ligh* m the '^i';. The upper limb of the sun was, astronomically,
'%ove the horizon on Mie 25(1',, ')U! .' . i u . ;eon at the station until the 27th, after an inter-
\;il of one hundred i...d thirty-scv i' ojs . '.ince its last appearance. Auroras were occasionally
observed during die nioutl-

A hare was killed on the 9th, ,.\d anci ■ seen on the loth.

Corporal vSalor was discharged for exijirutio 1 of term of service on the 22d and re-enlisted
on the 23d. His warrant as corporal was continued.

The national holiday of the 22d was celebrated as fully as possible.

The verbal weekly reports of the surgeon during the month showed the health of the
party to be excellent. A special allowance of fresh meat was issued for a short time to Pri-
vate Long. To the general party nearly a pound of fresh meat was issued per man daily.

The mean temperature for the month was — 38.9° [ — 39-4° C], with a maximum of — 5°
[ — 20.6° C] on the 21st, and a minimum of — 56.5° [ — 49.2° C] on the 27th. The colde.<^t
day was the 28tli, with a mean temperature of — 51.2° [ — 46.2° C], the maximum being
— 45.6° [ — 43. 1° C.]. The monthly mean is one of the lowest on record.

On the 14th tmusually marked and sudden changes of the temperature took place, with
light winds from easterly quarters. The temperature rose 12. 3° [6. 8° C] degrees in one
hour, and fell 8.7° [4 ''" C] in fifteen minutes. Although the temperature rose to — 32.9°
[ — 36.1° C], the mercury thawed in none of the thermometers, even the most delicate. On
the 19th the barometer touched 28.968 [735.8"""], the lowest recorded at the station. On the
28th excellent sound experimenls were made, with the temperature at — 54° [ — 47.8° C.].

MARCH, 1883.

As was natural, the first daj-s of spring brought a sense of relief that the second winter
had ended, and the entire party was lu strength and health. The knowledge that no expe-
dition had ever before passed a second winter in such a high latitude, added to the forebodings
repeatedly expressed by the surgeon of the expedition, had caused me great uneasiness, and
been a serious mental trial through the late Uionths.

The February re^jort of that oflficer, received on the 3d, stated that the health of the men
was good, with no signs of scurvy, and but two men. Long and Bender, on a special diet.
During the early days of the month the depot at Cape Baird was supplemented by additional
supplies of food as opportunity presented. The weather, however, was trying, as up to the
7th of March the sun had been visible but three hours.

Lieutenant Lockwood was oixlered to prepare for the continuation of the exploration of
the North Greenland coast, in which it was believed he would be able to reach, unless unfor-
tunate, the eighty-fourth parallel. The trij) to be made early in March was with a view to
establishing special depots for the final journey.

On March 9 I received from the surgeon of the expedition what appeared to nie as a
remarkable letter (Appendix No. 62), which practically recommended the abandonment of

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION,

all work of exploration. My own views at the time are shown in jny answer (Appendix No.
63), in which I declared that the abandonment of field work throngh a fear of possible contin-
ii[encies seemed to me dishonorable and tnimanly. Owing to the death cf Dr. Pavy, I have
no desire t) add furthci to my letter of March -o, 1883, than to say 1 '. the spring journeys
of that year were fruitful in geographical results of great importance nv value, and that such
work was '''. mc without accident or injury, and that it in no way int. 'it -ed with our arrange-
ments fo" subsequent retreat by boats.

Ueutenant Lockwood, with Sergeants Brainard, Jewell, and Private Long, with two dog-
teams and drivers, left on the loth of March and returned on the 17th. Lieutenant Lock wood's
orders and report form Appendices Nos. 64 and 65. He succeeded in laying out a practical
sledge route from Cape Beechey to Cape Sumner, and near the latter point a cache of about
thirteen hundred pounds was established. Sergeant Jewell, who remained in the field one day
longer than Lieutenant Lockwood to perform certain work, met with a misfortune at depot B,
which delayed him several hours, and might under other circumstances have proved a very
serious matter. His dogs during the night stole and ate all the harness and whip, which had
been secured in an empty tent instead c hpir own. His report to Lieutenant Lockwood
forms Appendi.x No. 66.

This preliminary field work was p. -*orn' n the most satisfactory manner, and without
any accident apart from the great discrM;" -t.; aiising from sledging in very low temperatures. .
Sergeant Elison, wl;o started with L ..on;, .t Lockwood, was taken sick the first day out, but
feeling better the next morning he conti , ;ed on until the 13th, when Lieutenant Lockwood
sent him back by a sledge to depot F tiear Cape Beechey, whence, as he had recovered strength,
he persuaded Sergeant Jewell to pc' it lum to return to the station on foot. The pluck and
courage .shown by Sergeant Elison on tnis occasion was only in keeping with his entire field
.service in connection with the expedition.

Lieutenant Lockwood and party left on the 27th for their final journey on the north coast
of Greenland. My letter of instructions forms Appendi.x No. 67. Sergeants Brainard and
Jewell, Private Ellis, the two Eskimo, and two strong teams, of ten dogs each, accompanied
him. Ellis was detailed on the doctor's recommendation, he insisting '^n the retention of
Sergeant Linn, who was originally selected for this duty, at the station. Private Schneider
accompanied them with the pnppy team to Water-course Bay. The party was thoroughly and
carefully fitted out, and they left more perfectly equipped than in the preceding spring. While
in the field they had fresh musk-meat for half their meat ration and the cooking and sleeping
gear were so arranged that one, two, or three men could trav el together or be safely left alone.
The plan contemplated the return of the supporting party with Jewell's sledge on the 23d of
April, and that Lieutenan*^^ Lockwood himself should turn back from the north by the 19th of
May, and reach the shore of Grinnell Land by the ist of June. The dogs of Lieutenant Lock-
wood's team averaged 70 pounds in weight, and the members of the party in traveling dress
about 175 pounds each. The cons/a/ii weights of the advance sledge were estimated at 312
pounds, and the supporting sledge at 280 pounds. The estimate of the entire weights to be
hauled by the teams when leaving Cape Sumner were based from my observations of the pre-
ceding spring that a good dog-team can haul a load amounting to 150 per cent, of its weight.
In consequence, the party were to start from that point with aboixt 2, 100 pounds, including
sledges.

On the 28th all meteorological and tidal observations were taken, for the first time that
year, without artificial light.

Prom the 17th the puppy-team, driven by Private Schneider, had been employed as far
as possible in hauling coal which had been mined the preceding autumn, and piled on the
shore of Water-course Bay. Nearly five thousand pounds of this coal were hauled to the
station during the month.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

■ L

March was not a fortunate month for game, only three hares and a lemming being
obtained. Two ptarmigan were .seen on the 23d, and two wolves on the 27th. That the
foxes remained in the country during the winter was strongly evidenced by reports, early in
the month, that the pemmican cached at Wrangel Bay, and also that at Cape Beechey, had
been eaten by them.

The weekly reports of the surgeon indicated the continued good health of the party.
Only minor ailments developed, and but three of the men, Cross, Bender, and Long, were
named as being unfit for field .service.

On the 28th the surgeon was ordered to furnish, by April 30, a general report, treating in
detail the health of the command to June 30, 1882; and by July 10, with a second report
covering it to June 30, 1883. These reports were required so that the entire subject of health
might be treated fully while the data were fresh in the doctor's mind, and that our experiences
might be on record and so available, in case of any disaster, for the information of future
expeditions. Indeed, one central thought the last year was to insure the rendition to our
countrymen of the fruits of our two year?" labors.

The mean temperature for March was — 17.9° [ — 27.7° C], with a maximum of -\-g.g'^
[ — 12.3° C] on the 8th, and a minimum of — 49.1" [ — 45-i° C] on the ist. The monthly
mean temperature was the highest on record in connection with the various expeditions in
Smith Sound.

On the 8th a storm of unu. ual violence prevailed. The wind attained a velocity of about
sixty miles per hour (26.8" per second), and the temperature rose to +3.3** [ — 15.9° C] at 7
a. m., a change of 11.8° [6.4° C] in an hour. It was the first time in seventy-one days that
the temperature was observed above zero [ — 17.8° C.]. During the height of the storm a
heavy swell of from four to six inches high [101.6 to 152.4""] was observed in the tide-hole,
thus indicating that the gale must have been an exceedingly violent one on the open straits.

On the 15th the temperature was extraordinarily high for March; being above zero
[ — 17.8° C] for fourteen hours during the day.

The ice increased in thickness only an inch and a half [38.1""] during the month, being
56 54^ inches [1.429"] on the ist of April.

On the 23d and 23d remarkable changes of the barometer took place, unaccompanied by
high winds until the end of the fluctuations. The barometer rose .054 inch [1.4""] in
one hour, .168 [4.3""] in four hours, .822 [20.^""] in twenty-six hours, 1.030 [26.2""] in
thirty-one hours, and 1.123 [28.5""] in forty hours.

Experiments made during the month, over a measured course, showed that our Eskimo
dogs with light sledge, could rarely travel more than five miles an hour, and with a loaded
sledge about lialf that distance. "

• APRIL, 1883.

On April 5 Sergeant Rice was ordered to prepare for a sledge trip to Thank God Harbor
for the purpose of bringing to the station the twenty-foot [6.096"] ice-boat, left there by
Lieutenant Beaumont, R. N., in 1876. His orders form Appendix No. 68. In connection
witli this trip, Sergeant Rice examined the ice from Distant Cape eastward into Hall Basin on
April 6, and visited Cape Murchison on his return.

Sergeant Rice with his party of ten men left, April 10. Lieutenant Kislingbury accom-
panied the sledge party a few miles into the strait. Dr. Pavy was not assigned to the command
of the party on account of his expressed unwillingness to assume any responsibility in con-
nection with this work, claiming that his duties with the expedition were strictly those of
a medical officer. He accompanied the party as a medical officer in accordance with his own
wish and earnest recommeudntion. The instructions to Dr. Pavy form Appendix No. 69.

THE LADY FRANKLIN TIAY EXPEDITION.

On April 12 I was surprised by the return of Lieutenant Lockwood and his party, all of
whom were in excellent condition. They had been compelled, by open water and the disin-
tegration of the polar pack near lilack Horn Cliffs, to return to the station. In an attempt to
round the cliffs Lieutenant Lockwood, Sergeant Hrainard, and P'skimo Christiansen came very
near being set off into the Polar Sea by the movement of tlie pack. Their trip to Hlack Horn
Cliffs had been a remarkable one, having been made from the station in six days against
twenty-two to the same point in 1881. The entire sledging outfit was found to be perfect,
and only the unfortunate breaking up of the polar pack prevented the party from attain-
ing a remarkably high latitude. The journey, however, could not be considered fruitless, as
Sergeant Jewell obtained at BiackHorn Cliffs, Repulse Harbor, and Cape Sumner, sets of
extended tidal observations which must be of marked value for determining the co-tidal
lines of thePolar Ocean and Robeson Channel. The formal report of Lieutenant Lockwood
forms Appendix No. 70, and that of Sergeant Jewell No. 71.

On the 14th Sergeant Brainard left with dog-team to assist Sergeant Rice in bringing
in the English ice-boat, being accompanied by Lieutenant Kislingbury, who, desiring to be
of use, volunteered for the trip. Sergeant Rice returned on the 15th, having made a most
successful trip, and brought the ice-boat in perfect condition. His detailed report forms
Appendix No. 72. The medical report of Dr. Pavy forms Appendix No. 73, and is different
from what was expected after his strong verbal representations of the absolute necessity of
a doctor accompanying the men to watch over their debilitated physical condition. The
result of this journey shows the excellent physical condition of the party. The twelve men
engaged therein were but an average of the party, and a round trip of nearly ninety miles
in six days was made by them, subjected to a mean temperature of — 21° [ — 294 C], and
with no higher temperature noted than — 13° [ — 25° C.]. The ice-boat was later moved
by Sergeants Gardiner and Cross, Private Schneider, and Eskimo Jens, with dogs, to Cape
Baird, v/here she was secured for possible use during the coming autumn.

Lieutenant Lockwood was extremely anxious that I should permit him to attempt again
the exploration of the North Greenland coast. After a thorough consideration of the subject,
I decided against tlie advisability. A different course would have been followed if the party
had intended wintering another year at Conger, or there had been any certainty of the arrival
of a vessel. I, however, decided to send him southward into Archer Fiord to attempt the
crossing of Grinnell Land to the western ocean, and issued the orders on the morning of the
24th. Lieutenant Lockwood, accompanied as usual by Sergeant Brainard and Eskimo Chris-
tiansen, left at 8 o'clock that evening with two teams of ten dogs each. The second team was
under the charge of Sergeant Elison and driven by Eskimo Jens. Sergeant Elison returned
on the 29th, accompanied by Privates Connell and Henry, who had visited in the mean time
the Bellows and Black Rock Valley for game, of which no traces were seen except rabbit and
wolf tracks. Sergeant Elison had accompanied Lieutenant Lockwood an hour's travel on the
third day, turning back when about five miles from Depot Point.

Nine thousand five hundred pounds of coal were hauled from the mine in Water-course
ravine during April, being within one-third of a ton of the amount consumed at the station.

On the 5th, owing to the limited amount of fuel, the fires were allowed to die down in
the quarters of the officers and men between the hours of 9 p. m. and 6 a. m. The temper-
ature, however, rarely sank below +30 [ — i.i'^ C.]. This slight reduction of fuel caused no
inconvenience or sickness, and is only alluded to by me as the surgeon of the expedition ver-
bally protested against it, prophesied resulting sickness, and made it the subject-matter of
official mention in his medical report of May 5.

The ice increased i>^ inches [38.1"""] in thickness during the month, measuring nearly
58 inches [1.473'"] o" M^Y i. at which time the ice on Lake A.cxandra (fresh water lake) was
found to be 79.8 inches [2.027"'] thick, at a point where a sounding gave 33 feet [10. 058"°].

THK LADV FUANKLIN IJAV KX PEDITION.

The mean temperature for the moiitli was -14.8" [ — 26° C], beiiijj nearly as cold as the
preceding; month of March. A nuiximum of 6.6° [ — 14. i" C] was noted on the 29th, and a
minimum of —37.3° [ — 3^-5° C] on the 3d. It was the coldest April on record except 1876,
on the same coast. The severity of the weather is shown by the fact that the temperature did
not rise above /ero[ — i7.8o°«C.] until the 27th, except for a siiifjle observation on the 22d.

The month was an unfortunate one for K^me, only two hares and four ptarmijjan beinjf
killed. A snow-bird was seen on the 25th, ten days later than in 1S82. Nearly a pound of
fresh meat, however, was available daily per man, and the health of the command continued
good.

MAY, 1883.

On May 6 a party was sent to Cape Reechey under charge of »Sergeant Jewell, and a
second to Cape Haird under Sergeant (lardiner (Appendix No. 76), to make a series of simul-
taneous tidal -readings in connection with the readings made at Fort Conger.

On May 23 Sergeant Jewell again visited Cape Heechey, and a second set of simultaneous
readings were made at Cape Heechey, Distant Cape, Dutch Island, and Conger. These ob-
servations were deemed by me of special importance for determining the co-tidal lines of
Robeson Channel and Ha;! Basin. Sergeant Jewell also made observations for latitude and
longitude, which, reduced by my astronomer. Sergeant Israel, showed Cape Beechey to be in
latitude 81° 52' 29" N., and longitude 00'' 07'" 22.3' (in time) east of Fort Conger. Sergeant
Jewell's orders and report form Appendices Nos.74 and 75.

Sergeant Israel, the astronomer of the expedition, visited Cape Baird on the 9th, to
determine carefully the latitude and longitude of that point. The latitude, determined from
a set of circum-meridian observations, was 81° 32' 27.7" N., with a possible error of plus or
minus 0.9". The cape was 00'' 00'" 57.5' east of F^ort Conger (in time). This determination
makes the latitude of Cape Lieber about 81° 28' N. Sergeant Israel's orders and report are
Appendices Nos. 77 and 78.

During his trip to Cape Baird Sergeant Gardiner, in accordance with his instructions,
made careful and extended observation of the many floe-bergs grounded at that point, with a
view to determining if their structure was a stratified one.

I had previously examined all floe-bergs easily accessible from the station, and especially
those which had split since grounding. The angles of cleavage were almost invariably per-
pendicular and extremely regular. In examining the interior of recently split floe-bergs
plainly defined strata were visible in every case. The upper part of the ice was somewhat
more opaque and of a whiter color than that below. Many of these paleocrystic floe-bergs
resembled very closely in color and structure the recently fallen ice from the Henrietta Nes-
mith Glacier, on the north side of Lake Hazen, which was examined by me in May, 1882.
Sergeant Jewell reported seeing a very large floe-berg on the North Greenland coast in April,
1883, which had thirteen very marked and clearly-defined strata. He examined it very
closely, in accordance with my general instructions on that point. Sergeant Gardiner's
observations at Cape Baird showed stratification to be general and it is probably universal.
His instructions and report form Appendices Nos. 76 and 79, and Sergeant Jewell's, bearing on
the same subject. Appendix No. 80. Sergeant Jewell visited Cape Beechey May 21-24, for
tidal and time observations (see Appendices Nos. 81 and 82).

Simultaneous tidal readings at Capes Beetiiey, Baird, Distant Cape, and Conger developed
peculiarities which appeared to render further observations necessary, and on the 28th Ser-
geants BrainardandCiardiner, with dog-team, were sent to Cape Cracroft to make simultaneous
observations in connection with Distant Cape and Fort Conger. These observations with
preceding tidal readings have been transmitted to the Superintendent of the United States
Coast and Geodetic Survey for reduction and discussion. During these trips Sergeant Gard-

(n ^

Ilf

►n
f

THE LADY' FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDrTION..

4lfi^'

iner made, under tr}-ing circiimstauces, a sijecial examination and collection of the fossils at
Cape Cracroft. The collection of fossils was very extensive and complete, but was necessarily
abandoned at Conger, as well as the fossils at Cape Baird. »Sergeant (iardiner's report on this
subject forms yVppendix No. 84; Sergeant Brainard's general report, Appendix No. S3.

Sergeant Brainard';; report is particularly interesting from his account of fossil trees, over
a foot [305"""] in diameter, found bj- him, at an elevation of .some eight hundred feet [244"'] on
Judge Daly peninsula, .several miles south of Cape Baird. vSergeants Gardiner and Mrainard
are entitled to much credit for the success of this trip. The trip was a dangerous one owing
to the advanced season of the year and the decayed condition of the ice. Its execution would
not have been directed but for my unwillingness to allow an apparently vexed scientific (pie.s-
tion, which could be determined by direct observation, to remain unsettled on the ground that
the performance of such duty entailed danger.

On May 26 Lieutenant Lockwood returned from an exploration westward, after an ab-
sence of thirty-one days. The party was iniierfect health and excellent spirits. His journey
had been remarkably succe.ssfid. He explored the valley at the head of lUla Bay, and find-
ing no practical route in that direction proceeded to Beatrix l?ay, and from that point suc-
ceeded in cro.ssing (irinnell Land, reaching the salt watci from the I'olar Ocean at the head of
a fiord named by him in the field Greely Fiord. He traveled down the fiord some twenty-five
miles and reached a point in 80° 48' N., 77° W. After waiting three days on less than half
rations for fair weather, he noted on a clear day the apparent termination of Grintiell Land,
on the north side of Greely Fiord, in Cape Brainard. To the southwest, at a distance of some
sixty or seventy uiiles, a projecting point of high land could be seen, which apparently was
.separated by a wide fiord from the southern part of Grinnell Land. It .seemed jjroper to
me to name this point Cape Lockwood, in honor of its discoverer, and to designate the new
land as Arthur Land, in honor of Chester A. Arthur, then President of the United vStates. In
addition. Lieutenant Lockwood discovered that the southern half of Grinnell Land is covered
by an immense ice-cap, which extends from the head of Klla Bay to the .southern shores of
Greely Fiord. A marked peculiarity of this ice-cap was its unbroken and perpendicular front
which ranged from one hundred and twenty-five to two hundred feet [38 10 6i"'] in height.
Such was its abrupt character that but two places, in a fifty-mile journey along its front, were
observed where it would have been possible to scale it.

During this journey Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brainard displayed energy,
endurance, loyalty, and pluck, which were hardly second to their record of the previous year
on the shores of the frozen Polar Sea. For nearly a week the entire party lived on less than
half rations in order to render as complete as possible their work of exploration and discover)-.

Lieutenant Lockwood's loyalty in connection with this journey impressed me with par-
ticular force. He deemed the crossing of Grinnell Land an impossibility, and in starting out
had entreated me to permit him instead to examine the glacial s)stem of I^ake Ilazcn. His
persistency, energy, and fidelity in attempting the route from Beatrix Bay after failing in Klla
Bay, evidenced most strongly his determination that his commanding ofiicer's idea of the prac-
ticability of the cro.ssing of Grinnell Land should not fail through him. This trip, in common
with all our extended journeys, entailed marked privations and serious hardships, to wliich,
in the interest of their work. Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brainard voluntarily added
a serious reduction of rations for .several days.

Lieutenant Lockwood'.'-, full and very interesting report, with his instructions, forms
.Appendices Nos. 85 and 86. Sergeant Brainard's share of this work showed the .same ster-
ling qualities evinced by him the previous year, and in eoiLseiiuence he was reeommended by
me in 1882 for a commission in the Army.

On IVIay i Dr. Pavy, who was serving as the naturalist of the expedition, was directed to
furnish, by May 31, a;; complete a report concerning the natural history of the expedition as

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

was possible. A description of all specimens on hand was to be given, and ^uch notes made
as wonld facilitate the speedy rendering of a report on the retnrn of the expedition, or as
would secnre similar resnlts if their abandonment should be necessary. This order was
deemed essential to prevent the entire loss of our labors in case of a contemplated retreat by
boats. He was also ordered to furnish, by May 6, six complete sets of botanical specimens, so
arranged that they could be securely transported and duplicates be intrusted to each officer of
the expedition. Instructions on this subject form Appendices Nos. 87 and 88. The collection
of plants was not delivered tnitil May 22. The collection was an exceedingly poor one and
was inisatisfactory in its condition and necessitated a new collection that summer. The
lichens were not furnished initil the 25th, and only after repeated applications for them. The
provisions of my letter of May 2, requiring a report by letter regarding certain deficiencies in
the specimens and their arrangement, were never complied with by Dr. Pavy. On June i, my
written orders of May i having been entirely disregarded, it became necessary for me to order
Lieutenant Lockwood to relieve Dr. Pavy of his duties as naturalist. (See Apnendix No. 89.)
The small amount of work done by Dr. Pavy in nearly two years, and the unsatisfactory con-
dition of the specimens whet) transferred to Lieutenant Lockwood, are shown by Appendix
No. 90. In extenuation of my re^jponsibility for such a condition of affairs, I should say that
Dr. Pavy's repeated verbal reports to me led me to believe that the specimens obtained had been
properly preserved and that full and complete notes had been made regarding them. Many of
the gaps in the natural history notes were subsequently filled by extracts drawn almost entirely
from my private journal and that of Sergeant Rlison.

During this month we lost nearly three hundred pounds of fresh meat, which had become
ainted in its interior though perfectly good externally. The month was hardly to be called
a good one for game. Eleven ptarmigan, two seals, seven hares, and three musk-cattle were
obtained. A musk-ox was killed by Lieutenant Lockwood during his western trij), and the
t\v "I others on the 30th of May by Private Cotniell, who had been sent with Eskimo Jens and
dog-sledge hunting to Black Rock Vale.

The health of the command during May was good, though probably a number of the men
who disliked the seal meat suffered somewhat by their abstention from that part of our diet.

The thickness of the harbor-ice on June i was 54.4 inches [1.382"']; a decrease of only
about 2.5 inches [63.5'"""] during May.

The mean temperature for May was 14.8° [ — 9.6° C], with a maximum of 32.3° [o.2°C.]
on the 22d, and a minimum of — 13° [ — 25° C] on the ist. The severity of the weather
during the month may be imagined from the fact that but for one hour was the temperature
above the melting-point of ice. The sno .v'-storm of May 27 and 28 was noticeable as being
the longest continued snow at the station ; it lasted for sixty-two hours.

The 30th of May was considered as a holiday, and in hoiuir of our "Decoration Day,"
and in fortunate default of any graves of our own, the head-boards of the Arctic dead of the
English expedition of i875-'76 were decorated. The initiative in this matter, as in the pre-
ceding year, was taken by Privates Frederick and Long. These marks of appreciation and
honor for the foreign dead must be considered of greater value as coming from the rank and
file of the expedition than if they had been suggested by the ofRcers.

JUNE, 1883.

On June 8 Ih '"'Vyi ^- '••'' own request, was sent with the dog-sledge to Cape Paird to
examine the petriiactiuns and fossils in that neighborhood}. He returned on the 9th., having
been unable to fad li-rui. No \M"itte)'. repot' was made by hiui of the trip.

The ('>':r- ileu(.e uncur S<.vgt aiit Linu \'as .sent to Cajje Murchison on the loth to bring
in some suppu-is ki.ied{:d for ll.c party.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Private Connell was sent with Eskimo Jetis's sledge to the Hcllows on a hunting trip on
the 17th. He returned on the 20th with three hundred and eighty-five pounds of meat. He
had found a herd of sixteen cattle at the head of the Bellows, eight of which he killed, very
judiciously sparing the rest, owing to the slight chance of the meat being brought to the sta-
tion. Privates Schneider and Ellis were sent later, each with a dog-sledge, and succeeded in
bringing in over six hundred pounds of meat. These trips were made with great trouble, as the
river in the Bellows Valley was very high and was forded with great difficulty ; owing to rapidly
melting snow the stream was ilsing with stich rapidity at the time of the last crossing that it
was useless to attempt another trip. This meat was a great lienefit and satisfaction to the
party, and \/as especially a boon to those who disliked seal-meat.

During the month other game was killed in considerable quantities. A seal, two haica,
twelve brent-geese, forty-two ducks, twenty-one dovekies, fifteen ptannigan, ar.d many other
smaller birds, were obtained.

The first flower, a purple saxifrage {Saxifrnga oppositifolid)^ was fotuid in blossom June
4, three days later than in the preceding year. The list of flowers found, with their dates of
blossoming and other information, forms Appendix No. 130.

The first brent-geese appeared on the 5th of June ;'.'.id the ducks on the 6th. An authen-
ticated egg of the knot {Triiiga caniitus) was procured on the 9th; the first authenticated
specimen ever known. The longer axis of the egg was one and one-tenth inch, and the
shorter about one inch. The ground color was a light pea-green, closely spotted with small
brown specks about the size of the head of an ordinary pin.

Steep ravines, with southern exposure, commenced discharging freely on the 4th, while
those of a lower gradient and other location were yet frozen.

Hunting near the station was followed almost daily, but the only distant trips, besides
that of Private Connell, were made by Private Biederbick, who alone visited the Bellows and
St. Patrick Valley. While hunting near Distant Cape, Private Ellis discovered on the 26th
the remains of an old Eskimo sledge. It was about four feet long [1.219™], of wood, ap-
parently pine, shod with the bone of the whale, and was found about forty feet [12'"] above
the sea.

vSergeant Erainard visited Cape Baird on the i6th to examine the ice to the southward, and
to obtain game if possible. The only water visible on the 19th from the summit of Cape Lieber
was a narrow lane to the northward of Joe Island and an open space near Distant Cape and
Cape Murchison. Sergeant Brainard brouLdit in a fine and large collection of fossils and pet'
rifactions, gathered near Cape Baird on D

On June 30 Lieutenant Lockwood s

arranged. It should here be stated, that, during
.on. Lieutenant Lockwood carefidly and systemati-
collection of this and the previous summer, num-
and packed them in the best manner (except the
plants, which were in my own chargeV .md had the cases so arranged that they could have
been loaded in an hour on the rel- <• earner. The specimens as packed will remain many
years uninjured by weather or anim s. Sergeant Elison, by his habits of application and
tmtiring zeal, added many fine specimeu> of birds ready for mounting, and Sergeants Brainard
and Gardiner contributed remarkably fire collections of fossils, while I obtained very many
marine specimens and a large number < > fossils from the shale at the coal mine. To Sergeant
Elison's interest and skillful handliii'^ was also due the excellent condition of the botanical
specimens brought back, most of which were gathered by me, but all of which were beautifully
pressed and dried by him.

The list of birds seen during the t ^■; years, and notes thereon, form Appendix No. 131.
A similar list as to mannnalia forms Appendix No. 129.

collections in natural history, classified n
his brief service as naturalist of the expei 1
cally brought together in order the lariic
bered and labeled all specimens, arrang

Peninsula,
iiitted, with Appendix No. 91, an inventory of

III

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

The party were in good health at the end of the month. Over a pound and a tentli of
fresh meat daily per man had been tiscd. liconomy in fuel had been practiced during '.he
month by the discontinuance of fires, except in one room, 1)et\veen 9 p. m. and 5 a. m. ; so
that six tons of coal remained on hand at the end of the month. The rotten condition of the
sea-ice forbade hauling any more by sledge from the coal mine.

A heavy northeasterly gale occurred on the 24th, during which the wind rose to a velocity
of forty-two miles per hour [18.8'" per second]. The first rain of the season occurred on the
26th, but the first month of summer ended with a touch of snow.

The harbor ice decreased 16.5 inches [418.39"""] in thickness, measuring 38.9 [998.08"""]
on July I.

The mean temperature of June was 32.4° [0.2° C], with a maximum of 39.6° [4.2° C]
on the 17th, and a minimum of 22.7° [ — 5.2° C] on the 2d. June 23 was the first day on
which the temperature did not fall below 32° [0° C.].

JULY, 1883.

On July I Sergeant Brainard was sent, with Kskimo Christiansen and dog-sledge, to Cape
Lieber to examine the channel southward. He returned on the 3d, and reported the ice to
be solid both north and south of Cape Baird, except occasional water-lanes and an open space
aromid Distant Cape and Cape Murchison. The new ice surrounding the heavy floes, how-
ever, had melted or broken away, and he was confident that the next heavy gale would break
up the main floe in Hall Basin and Kennedy Channel.

Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brainard Avere sent into the interior on July 1 1 for a
trip towards the northwest in order to acquire a knowledge of the physical conditions of the
country, and to ascertain definitely the topography between the northeast end of Lake Hazen
and Lincoln Bay. They returned on the 14th. Privates Biederbick and Henry accompanied
them one day to assist in carrying their packs. Lieuteiio.ut Lockwood succeeded in pene-
trating about thirty miles to the northwest. From his farthest point a very large glacier
could be seen about fifteen or twenty miles distant from them to the northwest. PNcecdingly
bad traveling caused them to return, as another day's journey would have added litt.'e or
nothing to their information. Lieutenant Lockwood, by permission, delayed making his
report until he could finish a map of the surroundings of Fort Conger in conjunction with
this trip. Owing to his death the map and report were not made. In lieu thereof. Sergeant
Brainard's report, the materials of which have been drawn from his own and Lieutenant
Lockwood's journals, forms Appendix No. 92.

On July 9, having been informed by Acting Assistant Surgeon Octave Pavy of his deter-
mination not to renew his contract for the year, v/liich he considered as ending on July 20,
he was directed to turn over, before lea\ing the United States service, his property, official
diary, and collections in natural history, to Lieut. James B. Lockwood. These articles were
to be delivered packed, boxed, and addressed to the Chief Signal Officer. The orders to Dr.
Pavy, and the correspondence had with him in this connection, form Appendices Nos. 93, 94,
and 95.* On July 19 Dr. Pavy not only positively refused to transfer his diary, but, although
his contract did not expire until the succeding day, declared that he was out of the service,
that my orders were not binding upon him, and he refused to obey the formal order of arrest
until a file of men was called to enforce my authority. Formal charges and specifications
were furnished him on the 19th, previous to the expiration of his term of .service, and he was
held in service to await the action of the War Department in his case. The charge and
correspondence of these dates form Appendices Nos. 96 to kx), inclusive.

*'riie directions for Dr. Pavy to turn over his diary was in acco'dancc with tho orders of thn War Department organizing
the c :pi'(lition, which left me no discretion. These instructions read:

" '^acli member m' the party will be furnished with a diary, in which he will record all such incideiUs as sjiecially interest
him. 'I'liis diary will not lie open t > inspection until delivered to the Chief Signal f iftlcer for his sole use in compiling the full
record of the expedition."

it»#

THE TiADY FRANKLFN RAY EXPEDITION.

Every consideration was shown Dr. Pavy in connection with his arrest ; limits of a mile
in any direction from the station being granted him. He broke his arrest, howe\ er, on the
26th of July, as well as on other occasions, bnt owing to onr isolated condition I did not deem
it advisable to place him in close arrest. It shonld be said to the credit of Dr. Pavy's
hnmanity that he continned to give medical advice to snch members of the party as requested
it, although when jjlaced in arrest he positively declared that he would not render such service
in the future to any one of the expedition. I deem it my duty to call attention to the fact that,
contrary to Dr. Pavy's written statement that his diary consisted of letters to his wife, a trans-
lation of his notes in the office of the Chief Signal Officer since my return shows this statement
to be erroneous. No domestic or family matters were alluded to, and instead of letters only
disjointed and disconnected data without sequence of dates or subjects were found, which were
devoid of scientific or even medical comment.

On the 28th the launch was tried under steam from Dutch Island westward in the harbor,
and everything was found to be in good working order. Stores and supplies were gradually
carried to Dutch Island during the month for the purpose of facilitating the prospective retreat
by boats.

On July 29 the abandonment of the station was announced in orders (Appendix No. loi)
to take place on August S, or as soon thereafter as practicable.

Sergeant Brainard was directed to make an inventory of the stores on hand which were
to be abandoned, a list of which forms Appendix No. 102. Sergeant Brainard during the two
years' scr\'ice at Fort Conger has served as orderly-sergeant and as connnissarj-scrgeant of the
expedition. In filling these thankless and difficult positions he had shown as much tact,
equable temper, and good judgment as he had energy and determination in the field.

It was with great reUictan:e ihnt I decided on the abandonment alive of our dogs. In
case we were inisucccssful in c 1 luav journey, as had been Hayes, and Kane (in his first trip),
and returned to Conger, these putient, willing laborers would be indispensable to obtain fuel
and meat. Several barrels of pork were itnheaded and all the barrels of oil opened, so that a
couple of months' food could be reached with some difficulty.

The ice broke up gradually during the month; the upper part of Kennedy Channel broke
on the 24th. The harbor-ice may be said to have broken up on July 30.

On Jtily 8 Sergeant Cross discovered a coal seam above the old coal mine in the bed of the
same water-course. It had long been evident that a seam of such kind must exist, as very
large pieces of coal had been seen at many points a long distance above and at a much greater
elevation than the old mine. The surface of coal exposed was reported to be about twenty
feet [6""] high and twenty feet [6'"] long.

The month was not a good one for game. Only three hares, two geese, thirteen ducks,
and several small birds were procured. Our last musk-meat was eaten on the 24th, but suffi-
cient bones remained for soup until August i. The game being scarce, but one meal from
game was had during the last week of the month,

Private Long was discharged for expiration of term of service on the 23d, and re-enlisted
on the 24th.

The party remained in excellent health, with the exception of Steward Biederbick, who
was troubled with rheumatism.

On the 30th Lieutenant Kislingbury turned over to me, as a personal contribution for the
expedition, two large tea-cans full of lichens. He had devoted much of his leisure time dur-
ing the two years in searching for lichens and mosses, and this collection must have been verj'
complete and \'aluable. He took a strong interest in making it complete, and showed his good-
will by his tender of it. Unfortunately it was necessary to abandon this with other bulky an-l
weighty collections.

H, Mis. 393 4 -

I.!'

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY KXPKDITION.

The month ended in southerly gales, which did ninch to break up the harbor ice in Hall
Basin and Robeson Channel. Unfortunately the ice in Archer Fiord remained fast, and no
possible chance of crossing it appeared. Every preparation, however, had been made for the
abandonment of tlio station at the earliest moment. With this view, five thousand pounds of
carefully screened and selected coal had been bagged and cached on Dutch Island, for use in
the launch during the retreat.

The mean pressure was 29.865 [758.6"""] for July, and the mean temperature of the month
was 37.2° [2.9° C], with a very high maximum of 52.4° [11.3° C] on the 12th, and a mini-
muni of 28.8" [— 1.8° C] on the 6th.

The reduced magnetical observations for the first year form Appendix No. 139^. The
other magnetical observations have been transmitted to the ITnited States Coast and Geo-
detic vSurvey for redtiction and publication. ^Meteorological observations for the two years
form Appendix No. 138.

AUGUST, 1883.

By tliL 3d the records of the expedition had been packed and arranged for retreat. These
records, weighing about fifty jiounds, were packed in three tin boxes, which were soldered up
and thus made water-tight. One box, to be in my charge, contained the originals of reports
and field journals, which had been filed with me in connection with the various work of
exploration, and also my completed journals. A second box contained the original sheets of
magnetical and meteorological observations and other official papers. The third box, which
was to be in Lieutenant Lockwood's especial care, contained letter-press copies of all mag-
netical and meteorological observations and records of the pendulum transits, the star-sheets,
and the official collection of plants.

Of necessity, all property, papers, and records, not indispen.sable to the history of the
expedition, were abandoned, as well as all private property. All the standard thermometers
were luxed carefully for transportation, and the pendulum, carefully soldered up in its water-
tight case, was also boxed, in order to render its carriage in jn uninnned condition certain.

The condition of the party for the coming retreat was of general health and strength,
despite their arduous labors for two years amid nuequaled cold and darkness. Of the .seven
hundred and twent_ -one days spent at Fort Conger, two hundred and sixty-eight had been
marked by the total absence of the sun. On two hundred and sixty-two days one or more
sledge parties had been \bsent in the field, on journeys entailing from two to sixty days' absence,
and some three thousand miles had been traveled by such parties; an unequaled latitude to
the north had been attained; to Greenland over a hundred miles of new coast had been udf^ed;
and to the westward Grinnell Land had been crossed, its exterior surveyed, its physical geog-
raphy determined, and the contours of its northern half fixed with considerable certainty.

This geographical work had been done without disaster, without physical injury to any
one, and for its prosecution no part of the scientific work for which the expedition was formed
had been neglected or abandoned. It seems proper to make these statements in view of the
many assertions that all Arctic work is of necessity unduly dangerous or fatal. 'J'he pn^-
gramnie of international observations had been carried out as fully as instruments and circuui-
stances would permit, and during the two years there had, on an average, been made and
recorded daily full five hundred observations.

A selected party was told off on tiie ist, with orders to be in readiness for prompt departure
for Cape Baird, as I intended sending to that point at the earliest practicable moment the launch,
loaded witli coal, provisions, and all the most important collections and records, leaving the
main party to follow, when ever\thing important had been transferred. The journal;^ of the
men were, as a rule, turned in, sealed, and addressed to the Chief Signal Officer. They were

THE LADV FRANKLIN HAY KXPKDITION.

packed witli forty-ci^lit pIioto<j;raphic ucjLjativcs in a small box, which weighed about seventy
pounds. A supply of nu-dicinc-s, the list of wliich Iiad l)cen furnished by Dr. I'avy early in
July, was carefull\" ])acke(] and boxed by {Steward IJiederbick.

A .small fiord seal was killed by lyieutenant Kislinj.(bury on the 4th, which jjavc us ^re.sh
meat for a couple of days.

The ice was watched closely from the ist of the month, but up to the morninj; of the 9th
no possible chance of crossinj^ Archer Fiord presented itself. About 10 o'clock a. m. the ice in
Archer Fiord, thouj;;h not navijjable, from its movements appeared to presaj;je more favorable
conditions, and, in order to avail myself of any possible changes, the station was ordered to
be abandoned at 1 p. ni. of that date. The launch left Dutch Island at 2.30 p. m. and ran to
Proteus Point, meeting the small boat from the station, which brought our dinner partly cooked.

The eastern entrance being completely blocked with ice, we.were compelled to attcnjpt
a western passage, and with great difficulty reached .Sun Peninsula, at the western entrance,
about 10 p. m. The passage acro.ss the strait appearing possible, we started into Archer Fiord
about midnight, but the ice commencing to move towards the shore the launch was badly
nipped, and was only saved from loss by strenuous exertions. On the morning of the 10th, at
the turn of the tide, we were able to run southward into Archer Fiord and pass around the
heavy ice which separated us from Cape Raird. A heavy gale prevailing made it impossible
to proceed southward that evening, but everything was put in readiness for instant move. A
cairn was erected at Cape Baird, in which was deposited a record (Appendix No. 104).

On leaving Cape Baird we had fift}-five hundred pounds of coal and abt)Ut fifty days of
provisions, with small caches at Carl Ritter Bay and Cape Collinson, which were relied on to
carry us to Dobbin Bay, where I at least counted on a vessel. Our means of transportation
were the steam-launch, the whale-boat Nai-i'/ia/, the Fjiglish ice-boat Bcauviont^ the English
boat Valorous^ with a small Whitehall boat for special use. The crews of the three boats
were told off, so that each would know where he belonged in case of an accident to the launch.

Wc left Cape Baird at 11. 15 p. m. of August 9, and were delayed between Capes Lieber
and Cracroft nearly eight hours, by a huge paleocrystic floe, which, by estimate, was over
fifteen miles long. -Passing southward the morning of August 11, a depot of corn-beef at
Cape Cracroft was taken up by the small boat, but one hundred and twenty pounds of bread
were left for lack of room, the launch and boat being badly crowded. The weather was ex-
ceedingly foggy during the day, so that we moved southward .slowly and with great difficulty.
The fog was so dense in the afternoon that for a time we were uncertain of our position, and
were obliged to run to tlie shore and follow it southward. Several shoal places were found
which interfered with oi*r progress, and near midnight we stopped, as I felt that the distance
made was not commensurate with the coal consumed. The point where we stopped later
proved to be some five miles north of Carl Ritter Bay.

On the morning of the I2th, while the party was j^reparing breakfast, the launch was
allowed to touch the shore on a falling tide and was grounded. Careful instructions had been
given to avoid this. Sergeant Cross, who was specially in charge of the launch, was evidently
intoxicated, probably from the fuel alcohol. It was onl)- by the most cnei jjetic and laborious
exertions that the launch was finally released, after a loss of two hoars' time.

The daj's run was a slow and difficult one, owing to tiie large quantity of ice and the
prevalence of foggy weather. Serious nips were frequently threatened, and at times we were
obliged to draw the snuiU boats Vip on the floe. In consequence of the unfavorable conditions
we were obliged to wait .some distance above Carl Ritter Bay rmtil the weatlier cleared, when
we ran south and picked uji the cache of bread and meat at Carl Ritter Bay. To avoid a
long detour along the shores of this bay I ran direct from the cache to Cape Von Buch, which
was passed without difficuUj',

TEIE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPKDITK)??.

The launch was stopped about 2 a. iii. of the I3tli, in latitude 80° 52', by an apparently
unbroken pack of very lar}j;e floes. A jjood harbor was found for the boats, and we were obliged
to camp until noon, owing to the very unfavorable reports of the reconnoiteriug parties. At
noon the tide loosened up the ice a ver\' little, but progress being possible I started south,
despite tlie snow and foggy weather, and ran for three hours until forced by repeated nips to
camp. Lieutenant Kislingbury, during the run, shot a small harbor-seal which was cooked
for supper and relished by all.

During this run Sergeant Cross was insubordinate and disrespectful and everything went
wrong with the launch. His .services as engitieer being thought indispensable, prevented any
further action than cautious and well-considered reprimands.

Our position was then 80° 44' N., about 68° W., some twelve or fifteen miles south of
Carl Ritter Bay. A severe northeasterly gale packed the straits with ice, and the storm being
followed by low temperatures new ice formed to such an extent as to delay us at that point
until the evening of the i8th.

Lieutenant Ki.'ilirgbury and Eskimo Christiansen went hunting inland, without success,
during our stay. Lieutenant Kislingbury reported the existence at that point of a narrow,
desolate valley, devoid of vegetation, which ran at right angles with the coast for a couple
of miles, and then, turning at right angles, trended to the northeast parallel to the coast for a
distance of seven or eight miles. Two small permanent lakes were passed, and a depression,
indicating a third large lake, was seen. A small stream, probably springing from the inland
ice-cap, fed and connected the lakes and then drained them into Kennedy Channel near our
camp. I have attached Lieutenant Kisliugbury's name to the valley. The shore had been
closely followed since leaving Carl Ritter Bay, and at the beginning of the gale the launch was
at the ice-foot. Owing to low temperatures, on the 15th, as a matter of precaution against
being frozen in, I moved the launch and boats with great difficulty a mile or two from the
shore, within some two hundred yards [183'"] of the moving pack, to a point, however, where
they would be fully protected from the grounded bergs.

The immilitary and insubordinate conduct of vSergeant Cross, the engineer of the launch,
culminated at this time. When the launch was beset in the worst kind of ice possible, my
orders to the engineer were so indefinitely carried out as to endanger the safety of the boat.
At the most critical junction I learned that Sergeant Cro.ss was intoxicated, probably from fiu^l-
alcohol, a fact which escaped my notice as he was hidden from view by the covering of the
launch. I instantl}- relieved him from duty, and substituted Private Frederick as engineer in
his place. The critical and trying situation" of the party made such conduct as Cross's ex-
tremely reprehensible, but the circumstances permitted none of the usual methods of dis-
cipline. This misbehavior was in keeping with Sergeant Cross's previous and subsequent
propensity to appropriate rum or alcohol whenever possible.

Private Frederick on assuming charge reported that the boiler was in such condition that
if it had been neglected a few minutes longer it would have become entirely useless, e\tn if
it had not exploded.

The next day the boats were moved as far as possible towards open water. The precau-
tion of quitting the shore was a wise one, for when the northeasterly gale ceased young ice
had formed to such an extent inshore that it would have been impossible ever to have extri-
cated the launch.

During our stay at that point the temperature was observed above 32° [0° C] but once,
and sank as low as 23.2" [ — 4.9° C], undoubtedly an unparalleled low temperature for the
17th of August.

On the i8ththe condition of the party was critical. The low temperatures, heavy snows,
and inactive condition had been exceedingly trying, physically and morally, to the party, who
were sheltered only by the canvas of the boat. On that afternoon, the pressure of tlie moving

!SS»-«»««»*

TIIK LADY KUANKLIN HAY KXI'KDITION,

pack against the fast ice (limiiiishinjj; somewhat, I (kcided to try and rcacli the moving ice,
preferriiijr to take the chances of makinjf onr way alonj; tlie niovinj^ pack to reniaininj^ ice-
bound in tliat bay. Several hours' labor had no results, as the one hundred and Hfty yards [ 1 37'"]
of ice between the launch and the niovinjf pack consisted of larj^e floes cemented together
by new ice, then two or three inches [50.8""" or 76.2"""] thick. Our efforts were renewed a
few hours later, without much hope of success ; but ultimately, by extraordinary exertions,
the launch and the boats were at the outer edge of the fast ice before midnight.

We met much moving ice, but h.ad a fine run until about 4 a. m. of the 19th, when,
stopped by adense, heavy pack, a secure harbor was found l)etwcen two grounded bergs. At
that point the tides were very heavy, evidently from twelve to fifteen feet [3.7"' to 4.6'"] in the
springs. We were then about eleven miles mntheast of Cape Lawrence, aiul, an opportunity
oiTering at the turn of the tide, about three-qtiarters of an hour's run was made without
nuich advantage ; and to avoid wasting coal, there being much ice, we stopped seven miles
north of Cape Lawrence to await more favorable conditions. About 9 p. m., being Sunday,
the psalms of the day w^re read, and then Sergeant Urainard and Eskimo Christiansen were
sent along the coast as far as Cape lyawrencc in order to examine the pack southward, which
frcMU our position seemed den.se and impracticable. They were accompanied by Dr. Pavy, at
his own recpiest.

At the turn of the tide on August 20, some open water showing up, and a heavy south-
west wind prevailing, I immediately started south with the boats and took up Sergeant
Brainard with his party three miles north of the cape. As he reported an impenetrable pack
extending from the very point of Cape Lawrence eastward to Cape Jackson, with no water in
sight, I thought it best to make a very secure harbor which Sergeant Brainard had observed
a couple of miles north of the cape. While a meal was being prepared I visited Cape Law-
rence, and from an elevation of about two or three hundred feet [61'" or 91'"] saw much water
with broad lanes opening up in the midst of the heavy ice .southeast and south, while to the
southwest Rawlings Bay was evidently, though slowly, clearing under the influence of the
southwest wind. The launch started immediately, but, after rounding Cape Lawrence and
running a couple of miles into Rawlings Bay, I was obliged to make the shore, partly on
account of the strong adverse wind and tide, but more especially owing to the dense fog over
the surface of the bay. I walked up on the north side of Rawlings Bay to the point over-
looking Radmore Harbor, and from a considerable elevation saw an immense paleocrystic
floe of many miles extent moving out of the bay, leaving clear water behind it, between the
northern shore and Cape Joseph Good. I hastened back to the launch to find her just
grounded, although exact and stringent orders had been given to keep her clear, and two
men had been detailed for <.hat specific purpose. The strength of the entire party was inad-
equate to clear her, and we were delayed nearly six hours for the next tide. In extenuation
of the failure of the watchmen, it should be noted that the range of this tide was between
thirteen and foivrteen feet [3.962"' and 4.267'"], and that at times the water must have fallen
about an inch [25.4"'"'] a mintite. In 1876, in this same bay, and under similar circumstances,
H. M. S. Alert, crowded near shore by a floe, was caught by a similarly falling tide.

At Rawlings Bay ivory gulls and several seals were seen, and traces of the fox and musk-ox,
that of the latter being very old. Vegetation along the northern shore of the bay was very
luxuriant for the latitude, and resembled very closely that in the vicinity of Fort Conger.
Just north of Cape Lawrence two small glaciers were seen oy Sergeant Brainard, when trav- <
cling along the .shore, and a skeleton of a yotnig reindeer was found, which Christiansen
thought had been dead about two years. I hazard the opinion that a detailed examination
would show the vicinity of Radmore Harbor to be the most northerly point frequented by
the reindeer of Grinnell Land. The vegetation of the adjacent valleys is sufficiently lux-
uriant for reindeer and musk-oxen, and in 1876 Major Feilden, R. A., discovered near Rad-
more Harbor a recently picked skeleton of a reindeer.

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.,■%

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

' I

The launcli was afloat at 8. 30 p. in. , and the bay was crossed in two honrs. Clear water
was found by a long detour inward, which carried us nearly up to the point behind whicli
Radmore Harbor is situated. A dense fog and a strong adverse tide drove us just south ot
Cape Joseph Good to an insecure harbor; but our situation was materially improved later, as
opportunity offered, by moving our anchorage a short distance south. At the first harbor, we
came near having a bad nip from an immense paleocrj-stic floe, which, moving northward, was
set well in toward shore by the heavj' tide and pressure of the dense pack which filled the
straits. At the second harbor, despite our exertions and owing to the very heavy tide, the
launch grounded a short time at extreme low water.

The Whitehall boat was here broken up and used for fuel. She had leaked badh-, been
a heavy drag, and was only of occasional use. She had been kept by me, contrar\' to advice,
until we should have crossed Rawlings Bay. For the previous few days it had been necessary
to bail her hourly. She was so easily handled by two men, however, that I Lad thought
it important to keep her as long as possible. After the breaking up of the lx)at the kayak
remained, with which either Eskimo would be able to perform services previously attended
to by the use of the boat.

Sergeant Jewell was sent along shore to Cape Wilkes to examine the ice. On his return
he reported open water to the south in Kane Sea, and also on the south side of Richardson
Bay. Shortly after an oppoitunit}- of reaching Cape Wilkes presented itself. Water opened
up to the next point of land, and the entire pack, under the influence of the southwest wind,
moved slowly and steadily offshore. We had, however, gone scarcely half a mile when the
main pack set violently in towards shore and nearly destroyed the launch and boats. There
was scarcely any wind at the time, and the movement of the ice probably resulted from tidal
currents, which doubtless are ver>- marked in the season of spring tides in that vicinity of the
junction of northern and southern tides. It being low tide the boats caught between the
moving pack and the perpendicular ice-foot, some ten feet [3"'] in height. There were no
available breaks in the ice-foot where we could seek shelter, and, in consequence, the launch
was jammed and we barely escaped losing her. The other boats were slightly injured, but to
no material extent, as the\- leaked no more after the nip than before, though they had been
necessarily much strained. One of the boats was pulled out on the moving pack, but the
other two were finally secured along the ice-foot.

During this severe and unexpected nip the entire attention of Lieutenant Lockwood and
myself was necessarily devoted to the launch, the most important boat, leaving the others
to .secure their own safety. Sergeants Brainard and Rice and Private Connell, who were in
charge of the respective boats, justified the confidence placed in them by their excellent conduct.
Lieutenant Lockwood was of material assistance to me in coiniection with the launch.

By watching closely and taking chances I managed, despite the heavy pack and great
jam of ice, to get into the extreme northeast point of Richardson Bay just after noon (August
22), and with only a couple of hours' delay succeeded in crossing the bay, though with great
difficulty. Very much to my disinclination I was obliged to make a long detour westward
into the bay, as the passage through the moving pack to the southerly point of the bay would
have been extremely hazardous if not impossible. ,

We found in crossing near the head of the bay that young ice had formed to^such an
extent as to cement together the small floes, and was thus sufficiently thick to prevent at times
the progress of the launch, even when the boats were cast off. The difficulty of penetrating
young ice was evidenced by our experience in passing through three hundred yards [274'"] at
one point, where it required an hour's efforts and entailed at times the necessity of dropping all
the boats. It was a useful experience, and in that as in many other matters only experience
is of value. On reaching the south side of Richardson Bay it wasdiflicult to determine which
point was Cape Collinsou. In order to make certain of the English cache the nearest laud

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

was made, and the coast was searched to the nearest point to the westward by Lieutenant
Kislingbury and Private Henry, while others examined the first point east. No sign of the
cache was found at either. Private Henry picked up to the northwest a small piece of pine
wootl, and found ancient traces of Eskimo.

While we were endeavoring to reach Cape Collinson, the flowing tide brought from the
north .such immense quantities of heavy ice that we were driven to harbor in a small bay near
a wasted ice-foot twelve feet [3. 7'"] high, where we were .sheltered by three large grounded floe-
bergs. From that point Sergeants Brainard and Jewell, sent out to .search the coast, succeeded
in discovering the English cache, from whicli all the rum and a barrel of bread was mi.ssing,
as well as the tobacco, sugar, and tea.

We were unable on account of heavy and jammed ice to move until the change of the tide,
about 2 a. m. of August 22. The tide being in the springs rose .some fourteen feet [4.3"'], which
enabled us to get the small boats inside the ice-foot, and thus protect them from heavy ice,
but the launch, of necessity, remained oi.tside. The three grounded floe-bergs which had
been relied on for protection floated at high tide and came near destroying the launch. As
soon as the falling tide grounded the bergs, and the pressure of the heavy pack was some-
what relieved, we ran eastward to Cape Collinson, and about 5 a. m. took up the cache. It
consisted of two hujidred and forty rations of meat, stearine, alcohol, salt, pepper, onion-pow-
der, and one hundred- and twenty rations of bread.

When rounding Cape Collinson a strong southwest wind was met, which with an adverse
ebbing tide forced the launch to harbor. In making shore the collar of the feed-pipe, which
had several times before been injured, was again broken. This necessitated a delay of two
hours, which stay was improved by cooking a warm breakfast.

During our stay Lieutenant Kislingbury visited a point whence he was able to look into
Joiner Bay, the chances of crossing which he reported to be unfavorable owing to the great
amount of ice. Snow, fog, and winjj in the mean time prevailed, but during a temporary
clearing up I started south and determined to try the channel by the outside passage through
the pack. This dangerous attempt proved successful, though fog set in during the run.
About II a. m. we reached an excellent harbor just north of Cape McClintock where the boats
were moored until the weather should clear and the ice conditions improve.

From the summit of the grounded bergs it was noticed that even during the rising tide
the strong southwest wind was setting large quantities of ice out from Scoresby Bay, and as
soon as the wind lulled slightly, I ran into Scoresby Bay a couple of miles and reconnoitered
from an adjacent hill. I discovered that the bay was full of immense floes, but could be ciossed
by running inland. A long detour was necessary, but fortunately clear water was found the
entire distance, and I succeeded about 6 p. m. August 22 in reaching a point just south of Cape
Norton Shaw, where an immense quantity of pack slush-ice, with occasional pancakes, made
such a tremendous jam as prevented further progress.

The water opened a little to the south once, but a paleocrj'sti? floe moved in just ahead
of us, and, jamming between some grounded floe-bergs and the shore, cut us off from the
south. I later made about three-quarters of a mile, but poor shelter for the boats obliged me
to give way several hundred ySrds to await further developments. My astronomer there
got an observation which he thought the meridian, and whicli made our latitude 79° 51',
two miles south of my reckoning. It transpired later, however, that the sun was off" the
meridian, and that my reckoning was correct.

About noon the jwck commenced moving .slowly inshore, and I was obliged to scatter
the boats for shelter. P*or a time we were jammed against the ice-foot by the pack, with
prospects to the .southward very unfavorable on accoinit of the large quantity of den.sely packed
rubble and small ice, which had no motion during the change of the tide. It seemed possible

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

to me then as we were near Cape Frazer, where the tides from the north and south meet, that
this jam was caused by its location with reference to the tides.

My journal at that time shows my uneasiness that no ship had been sijjhted, and that I
realized our unenviable position if none was found at Capq Hawks, with late season, but little
fuel, and an uncertain suppK' of food.

Shortly after high water, at the first chance of progress, I started south and made an
hour's run over a tortuous course, and was finally beset in a pack of sludge-ice, with jjn
occasional small pan-cake, while making shore a half mile distant. During this ebbing tide
we drifted at first northeastward a little as would be natural from a tide flowing from the Polar
Sea ; but a short time afterwards the drifting was changed to the south by an immense floe-
berg which was carried south evidently by an under-current. It was probably the drift of
this floe which packed the sludge-ice in which we were beset. We reached a small pancake
floe, where the boats were entered, to be drawn up at a moment's notice. The floe-berg, which
at first was nearly a mile north of us, was only some two hundred yards [182.9'"] distant at
slackwater. On the morning of the 24th we succeeded in reaching the ice-foot, where a very
poor shelter was found, affording protection for only two boats. About 9 a. m. a northeasterly
gale set in, when we juicceeded, by extraordinary exertions and with great diflicnlty, in moving
the launch and one boat five hundred yards [457.2"'] to the .south, where an excellent shel-
ter was obtained, which had been inaccessible at the time of our first reaching the ice-foot.
This movement of the boats was made in a dense pack, which, driven inward by the heavy
wind, ground along the ice-foot, and which came near utterly destroying our boats. Two
boats being in a somewhat sheltered position remained behind owing to the great danger
attending any movetnent under such conditions. The boats which took the chances and
moved fared better, however, than those left behind, which received some slight injuries that
were easily repaired. The general opinion was that we had escaped easily in not losing some
of the Ijoats. Kog varied by occasional snow .set in, wetting everything and making the con-
dition of the party thoroughly uncomfortable.

Sergeant Jewell was sent along the coast to Cape Frazer, and on his return reported
unfavorable conditions to the southward, the ice being heavily packed as far as he could see.

The tides were exceedingly heavy near Cape Frazer and caused me great anxiety during
our enforced stay, which, owing 10 the unfavorable condition of the weather, was for the rest
of the 24th.

The ice loosened somewhat just after the turn of the tide on the moining of the 25th, and
permitted an hour's run over a very crooked route, as the heavy pack obliged me to closely
follow the ice-foot. Stopped by ice for two hours, I succeeded about 9 a. m. in making a little
southing, and moored to a flat-top floe-berg which was grounded a mile from the shore. In
this run the collar of the feed-pipe was again broken, and was with great diflficulty repaired
by the engineer. Private Frederick. The boiler put in at St. John's was unfortunately
insecurely fastened in -he bottom of the boat, and, consequently, acted like a ram against the
engine when any direct shock came.

Christiansen shot a seal that morning, which was a welcome addition to our supplies.
Our noon okservation placed us in 79° 45', just north of Cape Frazer.

A strong southwest wind set a number of large floes against our grounded berg and on the
rising tide it floated it off" to the northeast, and compelled ns to seek shelter behind some grounded
bergs near shore. I waited for eight hours, under the cover of bergs, patiently watching for a
large lane of open water, which, under the influence of strong southwesterly winds, made slowly
to the north all that time. At 6 p. m., seeing that the shore ice was crowding in, and, owing
to the increased foggiuess, might finally cut us ofl" from a run, I determined to force our way
through a mile of moving pack to ojien water, though sensible of the danger of besctmeut.
With great difficulty the launch succeeded in reaching clear water, and ran southward for

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXrEDITION.

a short time till a dense fojj drove tis to shore at Hayes Point, north of several j^roundcd floes.
During the preparation of supper I ascertained • from personal observations that open water
prevailed a half mile south. The fog breaking ver}- slightly an hour later I ventured out
into the strait, around a number of grounded hergs, and reached good water. The fog
remained thick, but during occasional l>reaks the tops of Cape Louis Na])oleon and adjacent
mountains presented them.selvcs, and enabled me to run until lo p. m. At that time I moored
to an immense grounded iceberg, from the summit of which a good view to the southward
was had during a break in the fog. The ice in that quarter consisted of verj- large floes and
numerous lanes. It offered a perfect passage for an Arctic vessel, but with my small launch,
the prevalence of the fog, and our pro.\imity to Cajx; Hawks I did not think it advisable to
take any chances. This grounded floe was about a mile from land, and running to the shore
I found us cut oflf from open water, near Cape Napoleon, by a miserable corner of a grounded
lierg, which laid again.st the ice-foot. I set the party to work to try to cut away this barrier,
which was only twelve feet [3.658"'] across and three feet [.914'"] thick, in the hopes that the
rising tide would permit an inside passage. In the meantime Sergeant Jewell and two men
were sent on to Cape Napoleon with orders to look into Dobbin Ray, where I hoped for a
vessel.

At 3 a. m. on the 26th the watch -sergeant awakened me with the report that the changing
tide had opened the ice, so that an outside route was practicable to Cape NajMjleon. We got
under way as soon as possible and reached Cape Louis Napoleon about 4. 15 a. m., having
picked up Sergeant Jewell and his party en route. He reported that owing to heavy fog
Ca]x; Hawks had not been seen, and that Dobbin Bay, to the southwest of Cape Naix)leon, was
filled with large floes separated by occasional lanes of water.

The dense fog compelled me to remain at Cape Napoleon until 10 a. m., when a large
amount of open water, seen during breaks in the fog, induced nie to attempt an outside passage
to Cape Hawk.s. The fog was exceedingly thick and the run was made under difficult and
dangerous circumstances, but we finally reached the English cache near Cape Hawks about
2. 15 p. m., having run in from Kane Sea to the northward of Washington Irving Island. The
route from Cape Napoleon had been a very tortuous one owing to the ice, and probably
involved traveling twice the direct distance.

Sergeant Rice, with the whale-boat, was dropped as we passed Washington Irving Island,
with directions to examine the cairn, bring in any records found, and leave a notice of our
ujovements. He was also specially directed to note and report on the condition of the ice to
the southward. On his return he reported that the cairn had not been touched since o\n
visit in 1881. He left a brief record, which .set forth our movements past and contemplated.
He reported the ice to the southward, as far as the eye coiild reach from the summit of Wash-
ington Ir\'ing I.sland, to be in such a condition that any well-provided vessel could easily run
through it.

While Sergeant Rice visited Washington Irving Island I found the English depot with
some difficulty and took it up. A foot or more of newly fallen snow covered Washington
Irving Island and the land around Cape Hawks, and rendered the discovery of the cache
difficult. The depot consisted of three hundred and fort\ -two pounds of stearine, one hundred
and sixty-eight pounds of preserved potatoes, about six gallons of rum, and some two hundred
and fifty pounds of bread. Fully nine-tenths of the bread had .spoiled since otir previous
visit, and owing to the grave iincertainty of the ftittne the entire amount was carefully
examined for such as was serviceable, and a considerable quantity of that taken was so
moldy that it was barely eatable. In connection with subsequent events it may, jierhaps, be
properly stated that, not exceeding a hundred ])otuuls of bread could jiossibly have been
selected from the unserviceable amount left, and that all of this was permeated and covered by
a slimy, green mold which rendered the bread unfit for any one, and eatable only by a starving

THE LADY FllANKLIN BAY KXPEDITIO^J.

man. To supplement our small amount of coal, then reduced to about four hundred pounds,
all the casks at Cape Hawks were broken up hud taken on the launch, to be used for steaming
purposes.

We left Cape Hawks at 4.25 p. m. and ran southwest nearly an hour, finding the old ice
increasing in amount and in places cemented thickly together with young ice. My judgment
at the time, of the situation, is best shown by a literal quotation from my journal of that date :

'* I cannot but feel that we are now in a critical situation, not knowing what can be
depended on. Since no vessel reached this point in i882-'83 (to this time), we must all feel
an uncertainty as to the parly for our relief being at Life lioat Cove. The ice to the south-
ward, as far as the eye coirld reach from the summit of Washington Irving Island, is now in
such a state that any well provided vessel could easily run through it. If no party is at Life
Boat Cove, our situation is exceedingly dangerous. We have, jx-rhaps, sixty days' provi.sions,
except sugar, and beyond that we must depend uijon the resources of the country, which are
of the most precarious character. However, we shall do as we have done, our utmost, and
by some possible chance we may reach Cary Islands."*

We had, unaided, successfully made our way for over two hundred miles of latitude
(involving over 400 miles of travel), despite a remarkably early autumn, and through ice of
such character as must be seen for a just appreciation of the dangers and difficulties con-
nected with its successful navigation. Scarcely fifty miles south of us were the cliffs of Cape
Sabine, which looked southward to the open Nt)rth Water, and though unconscious that five
weeks before the Proteus had sunk in the sea before us, our minds were filled with appre-
hensions and forebodings as to the future. The condition of affairs seemed alarming ; it was
evident that no relief vessel could be depended upon ; the temperature, which had been for
some time below the freezing-point, then stood about 25° [ — 3.9° C], and the appearance of
the young ice foreboded trouble. We had reached a latitude where the sun now set; and
the clear sky indicated a decided fall in temperature the coming night. The launch was
off Allman Bay, the surface of which consisted of water substantially fresh, derived from John
Evans Glacier. Only four days later in 1876, with a similar temperature, newly formed ice
had been found in this bay by Sir George Nares, from one to three inches [25.4""" to 76.2"""] in
thickness. Through this ice the Discmwry had forced its way only with difficulty, and its
passage bj' a small launch would be manifestly impossible. But four hundred pounds of coal
remained for steaming purposes.

In consequence of these conditions, it seemed imperative for me to keep off the coast
and endeavor to reach by a direct course Victoria Head, only about eighteen miles, or four
hours' run, distant. Lieutenant Lockwood was consulted before deciding the question, and
his views agreed with mine, that it was the best, indeed the only, course to follow. The
responsibility of this decision, however, rests, as did that of all orders in this retreat, entirely
upon me, as I nc\er considered the counsel of any of my subordinates as in any manner

* It lias been sugt;esteil lliat in the spring of 1883, onlers or no onlers, I should have withdrawn tlie command, or at least a
'irtof it, to Littleton Island to facilitate rtlief, Slrani^e as it may sccni, there are those who do not realize what a disjjrace it
would have been for an American otlicer to abandon seientilic work and assigned station which the lumor of his Clovirnment
was pledt;ed to maintain until Au(;ust I, lS8j. Such may yieUi, however, to coyent facts, which disprove the j ossibilily and
utility of such retreat. Had honor, orders, and sound judgment all permitted sending a party southward what would have
occurre<l ?

I'irst. Such party (even of three men) would have stripped, for the subsistence of themselves anil dogs, the de|)ots between
Capes l.ieber and Hawks, and exhausted the provisions, which late, gave twenty live men a chance of life, and eventually saved
seven.

Second. The parly could not liave reached Littleton Island. This is based on the fact that in the only htinvn years, 1861
and 1872, the southern part of Kennedy Channel was impassable for sledges.

Third. Ciranli'il - an im|«issiliilily — Ihat lillliMon Islaiul was reached. As Ihe route is direct from Cape Hawks, any eflect
un Lieutenint (larlington was impossible, fur that ollicer did nut land at Littleton Island but passed by to Cape Sabine.

|i '

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

relievinp iiie from the responsibility which, properly, devolves upon every commanding
officer. In order to avail myself of the best nantical experience of the expedition, Serjjeatit
Rice, who was in charge of the whale-boat, was called forward to steer and assist in nuining
the launch. He was a man of excellent jndgment, accnstomed to Ixiats from his boyhocjd,
and had experience for over a year in the management of coasting vessels.

After leaving the coast the ontside ice opened .somewhat and considerable progress was
made to the south and eastward. We were finally stopped by two small floes cemented to-
gether by young ice, through which, unfortunately, we could not force our way, and so moored
our boats to await the next tide. It was the opinion of Sergeant Rice and the acute Kskinio
Jens, that if we could have advanced a mile farther to a large floe-berg, we could have gone
southward without difficulty.

The temperature fell that night to i8° [ — 7.8° C], and young ice fonned between the
floes of sufficient thickness to bear a man in places. The morning of the 22d found us be.set,
beyond a doubt, in about longitude 73° 30' W., and 79° 21.5' N. I stated to the party that at
the worst we could reasonably expect within the next thirty days to drift into Smith Sound,
and in .so doing must pass within eight or ten miles of the coast. A tripod, twelve feet [3.658'"]
high, was erected on the floe on which to di.splay a signal, and al.so for a lookout to the south.

On the 28th a proposition was made to ptit the party on reduced rations, which I tliQiiglit
unadvisable until such action was imperative, in view of the depressing effect it would nat-
urally have upon the party.

The temperature sank to 1 2.5° [ — 10.8° C] on the night of the 28th and to 10° [ — 1 2. 20 C. ]
on the morning of the 30th, the lowest temperatures ever recorded in .\ugust. The temper-
ature may be said to have gone permanently below the freezing-])oint on August 25, for during
the remainder of the month a higher temperature was noted l)Ut a few .scattered hours.

On the 3i.st we were in about latitude 79° 19' N., our position indicating a slight move-
ment of the pack to the southward.

An inventory of stores the preceding day showed that we had provisions for fifty days,
except tea and coffee for forty days. The men at that time were generally well, although
suffering much discomfort from their inactive condition and continued cold weather. .An
issue of three-eighths of a gill of rum was made that evening, and was continued on alternate
days thereafter, when thought nece.s.sar)'.

Lieutenant Lockwood approached me that day (August 31) in regard to our future move-
ments, and was informed by me that September 10 was the latest limit to which I was willing
to wait the action of the .spring tides and heavy winds to break up the floes. I moreover
stated my intention of abandoning all boats but one, expecting to find a ])oat at Cape Sabine
and believing that a second boat could not be hauled. Lieutenant Lockwood then concurred in
the unadvisability of waiting longer than September 10, but urged a second boat being taken.

SEPTEMBER, 1883.

On September i the young ice was broken up by the strong tide during calm weather,
and the movement of the floes, catching the launch, raised her entirely out of the water (for-
tunately without injur)'), where she remained for several hours. The ice showed a tendency
that evening to separate, and con.siderable open water was seen as far as the fog would permit —
some three hundred yards [274"'] — which unfortunately ran east and west. I was advi.scd to
attempt a movement, but considered it insanity to attempt to change the position of four boats
in such a dense fog, with the heaviest tide of the month coming on. The prudence of my
decision was shown a couple of hours afterwards, at the change of the tide, when the pack
closed suddenly and violently and lifted the launch bodily out of the water three or four
different times. When the morning came not a pool of water could be seen.

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY KXF'KDITION.

Two small seals were killed on the 2(1 and 3d, affording a welcome change of onr diet.

On the 3d the meridian observation placed ns in 79° 15.6' N., near Victoria Head. The
decreasing latitude nmch encouraged the party. Karly that morning the ice loo.sened up
sufficiently to allow our moving the launch and boats to a larger and more desirable floe,
which was a little over a mile square. The triixid was kept up, from which the condition
of the ice could be seen for about five miles, and an ensign was kept flying to attract the atten-
tion of any party or vessel at Cape Sabine.

On September 3 I was obliged to notice and reprimand an injudicious and ill-advised
discussion of Lieutenant Kislingbury and Lance Sergeant Council on our situation, and to
forbid a recurrence to such a demoralizing course.

Deeming it a proper occasion, I concluded to ask the opinion of the officers and the two
most experienced sergeants as to future movements.

Lieutenant Kislingbury first advised the immediate abandonment of the launch and to
attempt to reach over the detached floes Bachc Island with two boats and five hundred pounds
of selected baggage, thence to pass aroinid Ihichanan Strait, which he believed to be a bay.
He thought Cape Sabine could be reached by the time our rations would be exhausted, say,
from fifty to sixty days. Dr. Pavy's opinion concurred with Lieutenant Kislingbury's, except
he advised delaying a day, but he thought Cape Sabine could be reached in a month. Lieu-
tenant Lockwood counseled inaction for the present, believing the drift would assist us, and
that the pack could not be crossed at that time with all our baggage. Sergeants Brainard and
Rice concurred substantially in Lieutenant Lockwood's opinion, with the addition from Rice
that, under Lieutenant Kislingbury's plan, he felt but one boat could be got to Cape Sabine.

I then announced that my plan was to uniformly and persistently follow up with the
boats any opening which would carry us either .south or towards land. I stated my belief
that Bache Island could only be reached T>y extraordinary exertions, and that the crossing of
Buchanan Strait, .some twenty miles wide, would be extremely difficult if not impossible. I
further stated that if our drift carried us to the .southwest the nearest land could be made by
.sledge, after young ice permitted traveling, or if to the southeast, I should attempt to reach
the Greenland coast. Our ration of bread, meat, potatoes, and fuel was considered to be suf-
ficient to last until November i.

On the 4th, Private William Whisler, who had been di.scharged the day before for expira-
tion of term of service, was re-enlisted.

A harbor-seal was killed on the 4th, and another on the 5th. Preparations were com-
menced on the latter day for the proposed abandonment of the launch on the loth. A large
paleocrystic floe was visited, but to my great disappointment no signs of a ship were visible
from its summit, but only occasional narrow lanes of water, which seemed general to the north
of us.

Late in the afternoon the ice loosened up somewhat, and it appeared possible to reach
Cape Albert. The boats were innnediately put in water and the launch taken in tow until
she could get up steam ; for during this time the small amount of fuel had rendered it necessary
to permit the fires to die out. We succeeded only in making a mile to the southwest, and
were driven by the closing pack to take refuge on a small paleocrystic floe, about one hundred
and fifty yards [137. 158"°] square and some fifty feet [15.240"] thick.

A heavy northeast gale set in during the night of the 4th, and drove us rapidly at first to
the south, but later our movement stopped, showing evidently that there was no water of any
extent between us and the south side of Buchanan Strait; During the gale the launch received
many nips from the dense, heavy ice, but fortunately escaped unharmed. On the 5th we were
obliged to commence melting ice for cooking purpose, there being no floe in reach from which
fresh water could be obtained.

THE LADY FRANKMN BAY EXPEDITION.

Our noon observation of the 5tli was an agreeable surprise to us, being 79° 0.6'; we were
then equidistant from Capes Caniix-rdown and AUxfrt, beinj^ three miles frotn eacli. Cape
Albert bore four degrees south of west, showing that the south eoast of Hache Island was laid
down wrong or else the magnetic declinatitm had changed materially since 1H75- 76. Victoria
Head had agreed with our previous observations, but Cape Alln-rt had been out all the tiin«'.
It was very encouraging to know that we were only seventeen or eighteen miles frojn Cajic
Sabine, and eleven or twelve from Cocked-Hat Island.

Owing to these discrepancies I ordered siK-cial observations for magnetic declination, which
were made by my astronomer, .Sergeant Israel, on the 6th. The variation was found to be
105.9° W. This correction made our bearings more in accord with the Knglish chart, although
not entirely agreeing. Cape Camperdown was then due west, and so was in our latitude,
79° 0.6', which is some two miles farther south than is shown by the British map. The trend
of the south coast of Hache Island was apparently correct, as we could not then see the Wcy-
precht Islands.

In the early morning of September 8 the temperature sank to — 0.8° [ — 18.2° C], the
lowest I have ever known so early in the .season, zero [ — 17.8" C] being reached twelve days
earlier than at Conger in 1881, which was unprecedentedly early.

I visited on that day a large floe-berg, which was half a mile long and a quarter of a mile
wide, with an average elevation of eighty feet [24.384""]. An excellent view to the south
showed only densely packed ice, except a narrow lane, probably about four hundred yards
[366'"] wide, running south a few Imndred yards from Cape Camperdown. The natives de-
clared the ice to the ,west, in Buchanan .Strait, to be that of the previous year, and that it
had never broken up. With a glass I examined the ice carefully for sledging, and the best
route seemed to coincide with the direction of the nearest land, Cocked-Hat Island.

On September 9, our latitude having been unchanged since the 6th, I called together the
officers and Sergeants Rice and Brainard, and notified them that we would start with sledge
the next day for Cocked-Hat Island. I stated that two boats, all the provisions, all records
and scientific instruments would be taken. The .second boat was taken in deference to the
opinion of the officers who thought a movement with a single boat dangerous. I was unset-
tled as to abandoning some three hundred pounds of stearine and shot-gun ammunition, but
finally decided to take them. I informed the party that including .sledges we had sixty-five
hundred pounds or more to haul, so from the first we must travel three times over the .same
ice. The officers and sergeants advised no further delay. Dr. Pavy recommended abandon-
ing one keg of lime-juice, which was done. The best shot-gun, marine-gla.ss-, and telescope
property were taken, the remaining ones being abandoned, as was all private and public which
was not absolutely indispensable to us.

The pendulum being a heavy and cumbersome instrument, I informed the men that
while the saving of it was much to be desired, from the value of subsequent comparative
observations, yet it could not weigh against the chances of any man's life, and that whenever
any one thought his life endangered by hauling it or any one insisted on its abandoinnent I
would do so. To the credit of the party no man ever hinted at the abandoinnent, and most
of them were outspoken for its retention to the last.

Prepared records were left in the launch Lady Grcely and the jolly-boat \ 'a/orons, setting
forth our condition and our intention of reaching Littleton Island, and possibly Cary Islands,
if practicable, a copy of which record forms Appendix No. 105.

September 10 broke with a northeasterly snow-storm, which delayed our moving until
afternoon. Sergeant Brainard suggested that one man should select the route in advance,
which was carried otit, on this as well as on other days, with excellent results. The party started
with three sledges, the first, the twelve-man sledge, dragged by my.self and thirteen others ;
Lieutenant Kislingbury with five men dragged the six-man sledge; Sergeant Jewell and three

THE LADY FBANKMN HAY KXPHDITfON.

others the fixtr-inaii slcdjje. Duriiij^ this retreat I iK'rfonned the same work in tlie dra^j-ropes
r.s any private in the party and tlie officers all did the same. Holh the small sledj^es broke
down the first day, and the four-man sledj^e was abandoned. Tlie six-man sledj^e was repaired
and used subsequently.

At startinjj, the estimated distance of Cocked-Hat Island was eleven mile.s. On the first
day we made jjood one mile of that distance, which involved nine hours traveling, or almost
fouiteen hours from breakinj; to coinplctinjj camp. In campinj;;, Lieutenant Lockwood and
myself with ten men slept on the floe, sheltered by a tepee made of canvas, Indian fashion;
and under Private Frederick's siii)crvi:ion Lieutenant Kislinj^bury and si.\ others slept in the
whale-boat, and vSerjj;cant Hraiiiard with six others in the ice-boat In/oroiis. The weaker and
ailinjj of the party, Israel, Hiederbick, Council and Lonj^, were assij^ncd by me to the boats,
which were more comfortable than the tepee.

On the 1 1 til we made about a mile and a lialf good, leavinjj; us about cijjht miles and a half
from Cocked-Hat Island. Dr. I'avy and Serjjeant Brainard visited a very larj>c floe-berg about
two miles distant and brought back very di.scouraging reports. Towards Cocked-Hat Island
new thin ice a quarter of a mile in extent was seen, and then rubble, from young ice, towards
the island, with no floe;'.. I called the officers and sergeants together and informed them of
the condition of the ice towards Cocked-Hat Island, and stated that the spring tides would
come in about four days, aiid asked their opinions as to future movements, particularly as to
our advisability of venturing on the new ice. Lieutenant Kislingbury advised moving to the
berg (which would entail about two days' work owing to deep snow in that direction) and await
there the spring tides; Dr. Pavy and Sergeants Brainard and Rice substantially agreed with
Lieutenant Kislingbury's recommendations, though Sergeant Rice thought it possible, per-
haps, to move to the westward; Lieutenant Lockwood advised moving ahead but to the cast
of the floe-berg, and thence examine practicable routes by parties.

I decided to examine the ice thoroughly in all directions before moving, in order to avoid
exhausting the strength of the party by useless efforts, and .so delayed five hours w:hile the ice
was being examined by a party under Dr. Pavy to the southeast, and by Lieutenant Kisling-
bury to the southwest. This short rest ser\-ed a good purpose in allowing sleeping-bags and
clothing to be partly dried. This was on the morning of September 12, at which date we
were in latitude 78° 58.9'.

Lieutenant Ki.slingbury's reports were very discouraging as to the ice to the southwest.
Dr. Pavy and Sergeant Rice reported the route to the southeast practicable and advisable, and
I decided to inove in thit direction. As we were about moving off" with the first load, the
three officers and two sergeants came to me and strongly and unanimously recommended the
abandonment of the whale-boat, fearing it would break down our sledge and compromise our
ultimate safety. I at once concurred in their opinion, being satisfied of the necessity, and
ordered the abandonment of the boat. It had been evident to me, as shown by Lieutenant
Lockwood's journal of August 31, that a second boat could not be taken by us with any hopes
of successful traveling, and it had been ordered retained by me in abandoning the launch, only
in deference to the unanimous opinion of all the officers and most of the men.

We made good about two miles due .south on the 12th. At noon of the 13th wo were in
latitude 78° 56. 9' N., with extremely divergent opinions as to our distance from Cocked-Hat
Island; it being variously estimated from four to ten miles by the party; the astronomer and
I believed it to be about eight statute miles. By the map we were six miles of latitude to the
north of the island and nine miles due north of Camp Clay.

On the 14th our latitude was estimated anywhere from 78° 54' to 78° 56'. But to our
dismay, after a hard day's work, a marked movement of the pack towards the northeast was
discovered in the afternoon, cau.sed by a southwest storm, which set us off" to the northeast.

I— M. ■■ ■ ' . < « . ' ■ ■ H I jwLL^^i.Wj^.i.iLWT Tr

TUE LADY FRANKLIN l»AV KXI'KDITION.

At noon of the 15th we were in 79" i.S' N., over a iiii'- :)rtli of the Intitnde in which
the launcli was abandoned, and at a greater distance from laiid than we had cvir been. Tlie
sonthwest jjale had driven ns into the middle of Kane Sea, to a jjoint twelve to fifteen njiles
east of Cape Albert. On the evening of the T5th we were seventeen miles northeast of Cocked-
Hat Island, on the Littleton Island meridian. On the i6th the jjale abated and at n(H>n we
v^ercin 79° 0.7', with onr meridian nnchanj^ed, havinj; K''""*^*^ •' '"'1^' '1"*^ sonlh in the day.

The ice was carefully examined to the .southeast by Lieutenant Lockwood and party, and
to the southwest by Sergeant Rice. My iutentions then were to reach the (Jreenland coast,
if any chance presented itself. We were at that time thirty miles from Cairn Point and nine-
teen from Cape Sabine, and apix^ared to be drifting to the .southeast. To reach Cairn I'oinl in
our southerly drift but five or s'x miles easting was necessary, while to reach Sabine fully three
times that anioiint would be required. An inventory tlutt day showed forty da\s' remaining
rations, and that evening two small harlxjr-seals, aggregating about three hundred pounds
gross weight, were killed.

At noon of the 17th we were in 78° 56', having drifted three miles to the west aiul four
to the .south. This marked change in the drift altered my intention of attempting to re:i(li
the Greenland coast, which would have been my route if the drift had been .south or eve'i
south-southwest. During our enforced delay the two sledges, badly worn and injured by
rough ice, were repaired.

We started at i p. m.,aud when the darkness came at 10 p. m., had made about three
and a quarter miles to the southwest. Some of the party then estimated land as three or four
miles distant, but it was nearer eight.

On the i8th the cooks were up at 5 a. m., and the party at 6. We worked steadily until
9 p. m., with a short delay for tea at 7 p. >ii. The day's work was exceedingly tr\ ing; .several
lanes of water had to be crossed where three loads were necessary, and con.sequent separations
of the party entailed. On the moving pack such .separations were dangerous, but absoluleh'
essential to progress. When darkness came we were about four miles from shonj, with an in-
tervening open pack. The party were so exhausted that no shelter was erected that nigiit.

September 19 was a critical day for the party. A southwest gale connnenccd shortly
after midnight, and was so violent during the day that pemmicau and water was served to the
men in their bags for breakfast and supper, no cooking being possible. The wind was to')
violent for a latitude observation at noon. At 5 p. m., our bearings indicated that we we
again in the middle of Kane Sea in 78° 52' (or 53'), from twelve to fourteen miles cast of '' ._
Sabine, and about seven miles west of Cairn Point, and on the meridian of Cape Alexander.
The land which the night before had been in ea.sy reach, w;is now lietween fifteen and twenty
miles distant. A consultation of all the officers and two .sergeants was had, at which they
were asked to express their opinions as to future movements. They all believed that there
was a chance of reaching the west coast, if we drifted by Cape Sabine.

I stated my opinion that the proper course would be to abandon two thousand pounds
weight, and take our records, instruments, and twenty days' rations, start acro.ss the open pack
for the Greenland shore, twenty-three or twenty-four miles distant. By such abandonment, 1
said, the party could haul everything at a load, transferring by boat in two loads, which vould
ensure our making nearly three times the distance as by our past method. I po ;i!;<.d out that
theGreenland coast with the Etah Eskimo was the only quarter where positive rcU' could be
expected, that Cape Sabine presented nothing certain, and that I considered it almost im-
possible to make twelve miles westing in nine miles southerly drift Our previous experience
had shown that in three days we had made but four miles westing in twelve miles southing,
or one- third of a mile westing to each mile soutliing. Towards the (ireenland coast wc h»4
to make but two miles easting to reach Littleton Island, thirty -one miles to the south.

THE LADY FUANKMN BAY EXPEDITION.

Owinp to the unaninions opinion of my officers I decided to delay until the 2otli to ascer-
tain the drift, annonncinjr, however, my intention of movinji; towards the Greenland coast
the next day, nnless remarkable chanjjes resulted from our drift in the mean time. During
the next day the dense fog and occasional snow prevented movement in any direction. I
sho'-ld certainly have moved towards (Ircenland, had land been visible in any quarter so
iis to show our exact position.

During the aotli and 2ist four .seals were killed, which added materially to our food
•suoply. Snow fell on the 21st and prevented any nu)vcment. On the 22d we were in latitude
7b'' 52.6', on the meridian of Cairn Point, our latitude l)eing slightly iincertaiu on account of
the lowne.ss of the sun. The abandoned whale-boat was seen two miles .southwest of us, and
an attempt was made to reach it, but it was nn.sncce.ssful owing to the packed slush-ice, which
would not sup]K)rt a man or permit the pas.sagc of a l)oat.

On the night of the 22(1 and 23d snow prevailed, and a heavy gale, probably from the
east, drove us again very near the EUe.smere lyand coast. At noon wc were about nine miles
distant from Cape Sabine and the same from Cocked-Hat Island.

( )n the 24th the ice to the westward was examined and reports were made by vSergeant
Brainard and Private Schneider, showing its impracticability. Later, I .sent lyientenant
Lockwood, with several men with a boat, to visit the adjoining floes to the west and sotithwest
in the direction of the w'lale-boat. The floes were found to be of last year's ice, and .so rotten
that traveling over them with a load was impossible. This party returned to us with serious
difficulty, owing to rubble and .slush-ice, and unfortunately lost in so doing our only .shovel.

Tiie cooks were called at day-break, 4.30 a. m., on the 25th, I being determined to move
in some direction. A .severe northeast gale with snow, however, prevented it. The violence
of the gale and tlie pressure of heavy ice split uj) our paleocrystic floe. Its original size was
about half a mile .square and from thirty to forty feet [9'" to 12'"] thick. We were left upon a
piece, the area of which amounted to about three acn .s. ( )ursituation was then extremely crit-
ical, as the northwest gale was .setting us .slowly, but certainly, oflshore towards the ccjiter of
Smith vSouud. At 6 p. m. we were crowded against a large paleocrystic floe to the west, from
which huge nias.ses of slu.sh and rubble ice .separated us for an eighth of a mile. Chri.stiansen was
sent across to test the ice in the hope that we might reach this fioe. He reached it with great
difficulty, but in returning nearly broke through in .several places, .showing its utter imprac-
ticability for a heavy load. The party doubtless could have reached Cape Sabine at this time
on foot by abandoning all provisions, records, and supplies ; and, indeed, shore could have fre-
quently been reached at such expense.

At 8. a. m. of the 26th we were half a mile ea.st of »Stalknecht Islatul, with open water to
that j)oiut. vSergeant Rice and Private vSchueider, the nu)st experienced sailors, examined the
pool ami reported it as utterly impracticable, owing to the heavy .sea and the thick slush-ice,
through which a well-nuinned boat could hardly move, even without a load. Possibly a
j)ortiou of the party might have landed at that time, abandoning the rest to its fate. Such an
attempt was strongly recommended by Dr. Pavy.

At I p. m. two large paleocrystic floes pressed us so badly that our own floe was cracked,
and, despite the violent northerly gale and a drifting snow, we were obliged to seek refuge on
a .second floe where shelter was obtained with difficulty. Our old floe eventually broke in
fragmeiits.

I'Vom the afternoon of the 26th until the morning of the 28th the most violent iu)rth-
westerly gale exj)erienccd by us during our retreat prevailed, accompanied by drifting snow.
During this time it was impos,sible to cook but once, and a portion of the men for forty hours
were unwilling to leave their sleeping-bags even for food.

On the morning of the 28th we di.scovered that vSmith Sound was so densely packed with
iee that we had .scarcely moved a mile .southward since the preceding day, and that to the west-

nPWS

TllK liADY FKANKLIN I1A\ EXPEDITION.

ward of us a second palcocrj-stic floe was cauj>^ht fast. The water space to the westward was
closely watched, and tlie moment the sea had decreased, so that it was passable with small loads,
the crossin)j[ to the floe to the west conuncnced. We succeeded in reaching that nijjlit by
extraordinary eflbrts a point where land seemed a certainty. Durinj^ that day ai;d the follow-
inj; one we were oblij^ed to cross several lanes of water, which neces.sarily entailed repeated
separations of the party, but at 5.20 p. m. the first boat, in charjje of Lieutenant Kockwood,
reached shore, followed by the last party under myself two hours later. The land appeared to
be a point immediately .south of Lefiert (Uacier, several miles above Wade Point. It received
from me the name of K.skimo Point, owinjj to the discovery of permanent habitation in pa.st
years of this point by the K.skimo.

On the 30th I .sent Corporal Salor and Eskimo Chri.stiansen to visit the cape on the .south
%i(\c of Ros.sc Bay, which they were unable to reach, owinjj to a lane of water, half a mile wide,
off the cape. They were once on the movinjj pack and escaped with difficulty. Antic'palinjj;,
however, that Corporal Salor would reach the cape, orders were issued to Lieutenant Lock-
wood to prepare for a trip with the twelve-man sledfje to Cape Sabine on October i, but Cor-
poral Salor's report, showinji; sledpe travel to be impracticable, compelled me to countermand
the order. Serjjeant Rice llun volunteered for an attempt to reach Cape Sabin^- on foot, taking
Jens and a one-man sleepinji;-ba^, into which the two could crowd. Records were prepared
for the cairn at Hrevoort Island, and detailed instructions were ji[iven to him for this trip. He
cros.sed to Ro.sse Bay over Alfred Newton Glacier, which was discovered to be practicable by
Lieutenant Ki.slinj^bnry while hnntiufj.

On October 2, a site havinjj been .selected just .south of Alfred Newton (ilacier for build-
ing, the party was moved over and the work of •"nter quarters commenced, it being too late
in the sea.son to delay longer, as the sun would quit us in about three weeks.

Every effort was made to obtain game, four of the party being detailed as hunters, but in
the twelve days we were at that point only one .seal was obtained.

On the 2d we had rations remaining for thirty-five days, ba.sed on an allowance of ten
ounces of bread, sixteen ounces of meat, and two ounces of potatoes daily. After a general
consultation, I decided to make thes? rations last fifty days. This measure was decided on
contrary to the advice of my surgeon, who would not commit himself to the reconnnendation
of any definite reduction. This course, while perhaps a wi.se one for a medical officer, on strict
profes.sional grotmds, was exceedingly embarrassing to the commanding officer.

On October 3 the building of three winter huts commenced. The covering of one house
was to consist of our boat and two lots of canvas. The boat was dispo.sed of by choice and
fell to the lot of Sergeant Brainard's party. Lieutenant Kislingbury's party was allowed to
have first choice of the canvas, so that the remaining lot fell to the party which quartered with
Lieutenant Lockwood and myself By October 8 the huts were in habitable condition, the
roofs having been covered with moss, and a considerable quantity collected for the beds.

On the 4th, in accordance with the doctor's advice, the ration was increased slightly, to
four ounces of pemniican, eight ounces of bread, and one and a half ounces of potatoes, which
was continued until the extreme hard work connected with the building of the .stone huts was
through with.

The general conduct of the party dtiring the exhausting labor necessary in constructing
stone huts, as well as during our dangerous drift on the ice-pack, was exceedingly creditable.
It was but natural that great physical sufferings from lack of proper shelter, continued exces-
sive work, and insufficient food should react on the mind and cause murmurs and discontent,
which at times broke into indiscreet remarks and reflection.s. This impropriety was only on
the part of few members, and as detailc<l in the attached journals of Lieutenant Lockwood
(written in shorthand at the time) and {Sergeant Brainard. P'ortunalely the party as a whole
was never otherwise than subordinate and united. Such subordination and united action had
H. Mis. 393 5

TBE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

been our safety in live hundred miles travel, which had ended in our party of twenty-five
landing in health and strength, with records and instruments safe, on the barren coast of Elles-
niere Land. This courage, good behavi<~r, and loyalty may seem theoretically a matter of
course in the connnon interest, which could be subserved only by unity and harmony, but
when death, starvation, and great continued suffering impend, the temptation for the strong
to appropriate all and sacrifice the weak is certainly verj' great.

The 9th of October was an eventful day to the party ; Sergeant Rice returned, bringing
us !:ows. He brought the record of Lieutenant Garlington, dated July 24 (Appendix No. 106),
which informed us of the sinking of the Proteus on July 23, and that Lieutenant Garlington
and her crew had gone to the east coast to communicate with the U. S. S. Yanlic or a Swe-
dish steamer. Rice discovered three caches — the English one of two hundred and forty rations,
the Beebe cache of two hundred and forty rations (aggregating four hundred and eighty rations),
and the wreck cache, which, from Lieutenant Garlington's report, contained five hundred
rations of bread, sleeping-bags, tea, and a lot of canned goods. The record further said : ' ' Cache
on Littleton Island and boat at Cape Isabella." The words "two hundred and fifty rations"
contained in Lieutenant Garlington's copy as furnished to the Proteus co\xx\. of inquiry, were
not in the original record.

The modification of Lieutenant Garlington's record is referred to, as the record left had
an important bearing upon my subsequent action. The record informed me of the disaster to
the /V<Vr«j and of Lieutenant Garlington's positive assurance that ''''everything ivithin the
pozcer 0/ man to rescue^'' my party "would" be done. His declaration that he left for the east
coast to endeavor to open up communication, and pointed out that if the Yantic failed him a
Swedish steamer was possible, were construed as conveying to me in the strongest terms his
fi.xed detennination to return to Cape Sabine if either steamer was fallen in with, and that I
could look to him for relief. Two courses, only, were open to me ; one to proceed to Cape
Sabine, await possible assistance thus promised, and if it did not come to cross to Littleton
Island by sledge as soon as the channel should close.

Those who are inexperienced in the varying phases of Arctic ice conditions cannot clearly
understand why Smith Sound, crossed in whale-boats during July, should be impas.sable for
similar boats in October. In July, with its ever present sun. Smith Sound is generally an
open sea free from ice, but in October, 1883, it was filled with floes and ground-up ice, contin-
ually driven about by heavy tides and severe storms, while the scant six-hour sun of October
loth disappeared entirely for the winter only sixteen days later.

Our experience of the previous thirty days had shown the impossibility of then crossing
the upper part of Smith Soixnd, owing not only to the large quantities of heavy ice moving
southward, but particularly on account of the prevalence of rubble and slush ice, among
which young ice was continually fonning, which would neither permit the passage of a boat
nor bear the weight of a man.

Our experiences had been somewhat similar to those of naval expeditions under like con-
ditions. The drift party of the Polaris had been unable in that channel, and in sight of that
very spot, to make land, but a few miles distant, failing, says the official narrative, "despite the
most persistent efforts." On the east coast of Greenland the crew of the Hansa, in January,
1870, had been unable to reach shore, but two miles distant, although their lives appeared to
depend on their success. *

*The following extracts from the report of celebrated and successful Arctic travelers, Sir John Richardson, Dr. John Rae,
and l.icut. Sherard Osborn, R. N., are added, as illustrations of Arctic boat experiences under conditions by no means »<< iles-
perate as the crossing of Smith Sound in October, 1883.

Richardson, in 1848, with Rae, was unable to cross Dolphin Slrait, and thus comments (page 178, Arctic Searching Voyage) ;

" It (the young ice) did not exceed an inch in thickness, but * « * did not crack readily, while * » » it was hard
enough to cut the planks of the boats through, rendering them scarcely seaworthy, though we had strengthened them on the
water-line with sheets of tin beate. ^ut of the pemmican cans. In dragging ihem over the floes they were much shattered.

iZsmmmnm

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Two months before, to a day, a powerful vessel of the navy had been forced out of the
lower and less dangerous position of this sound, owing to the dangers of its navigation. By
extraordinary exertions and fortunate circumstances we had been able to make land twelve
miles off without sacrificing as did one of these parties their entire scientific collection.

In consequence of this condition of affairs, a movement to Cape Sabine meant a permanent
camp txntil relief could come by vessel that autumn, or the straits freezing over pennit crossing
by sledge. The second course was to turn our faces homeward, and, taking the second boat at
Cape Isabella, push southward to Clarence Head along the west coast, and from that point
attempt the Cary Islands, where we would be safe, or, the ice conditions precluding that
course, in desperate strait push still southward in the hopes of being able to cross Jones and
Lancaster Sounds and reach Pond Inlet.

Smith Sound from Isabella southward opens like a fan, so that necessarily the ice spread-
ing in early fall leaves large water spaces, which freeze over at a very late date, if at all.
During our stay at Eskimo Point the ice had frequently opened up so that a voyage could
have been made by boat to the southward, and by ship across Smith Sound to the eastern
shore. As far north as Cape Isabella, Smith Sound was navigable for ships most of the time
until after November 4. In short, the ice was a pack, changing with every wind and tide,
which was fringed with young and slush ice, though in general not of a very heavy character.

The prevailing sentiment of the party plainly favored a movement to Cape Sabine, where
all possible help was pledged, and I decided, on my own responsibility, to move to that point,
reluctantly turning my back to the southern trip which might have involved the entire
destruction of the party or have secured its ultimate safety. Had I been plainly told that
harmony did not prevail in the Proteus party, that there were no rations for a winter at Lit-
tleton Island, and that the Yantic was a fair-weather ship, not equipped for an Arctic winter,
I should certainly have cached my instruments and records and chosen the dangerous journey
to the southward. Going to Cape Sabine necessarily rendered tlie four boats within our reach
of no benefit to us, but in the southern trip they would have been invaluable. Sergeant Rice
further reported that Cape Sabine was on an island separated from the mainland by a strait,
which I have named Rice Strait.

" At noon" (after only half a day of such experience), continues Richardson, " findini; that we could not advance farther
in the present condition of the ice, without pulling the boats to pieces, we encamped."

Then, after consultation with Mr. Rae, Richardson abandoned his boats.

Elsewhere (page 178) he says: ** It was on this cape (Krusenstern) that Mr. Rae spent a month of the following summer
(1849), anxiously watching for an opening in the ice, by which he might cross to Douglas Island (ten miles distant) and Wollaston
Land."

From Dr. Rae's report (pp. 31 2, 313). same volume, we learn that he (Rae) waited twenty days (from July 30 to August 19,
1849) at Cape Krusenstern (68° 25' N.) for an opportunity of crossing Dolphin Strait to Wollaston Land. On .Vugust 19 he had
water to within three miles of Douglas Island, " when," says Rae, " we came to a stream of ice, so close packeii and so rough
that we could neither pass over nor through it." Rae, after twenty-four days waiting, abandoned the attempt as impracticable.

This inability of two great Arctic travelers, in two successive years, in the month of August even, to cross a strait only half
as wide as the narrowest part of Smith Sound, speaks for itself of the almost insuperable character of boat navigation after new
ice begins to form.

Sir George Nares, R. N., in his testimony on Arctic matters, ((uoted, in no captious spirit, Rae's experience.

Lieut, (afterwards Admiral) Shcrard Osborn, R. N., who commanded an Arctic searching ship (|)agc 3, " Stray Leaves
from an Arctic Journal), says: "On the 5th (October, 1850), Lieutenant Aldrich returned from his journey. He had not been
able to go beyond Somerville Island, the sea between it and Lowthcr Island \x\'cvg^cos'atA\<\\}ci broken, packed ice, half -frozen
sluJge, and young ice."

The italics arc Osborn's, and evidence his opinion that boat navigation under such conditions (identical with those which
existed in Smith Sound October, 1883) was impossible.

Capt. Sir John Ross, R. N,, in 1832 abandoned, as ho|>cless, the crossing of I'rince Regent Inlet on September 24, although
the lives of his party ajiparently depended on it. This inlet, as diflicult of crossing by boat as Smith Sound, is over two hundred
and fifty miles to the south of Cape Sabine.

This note is added, not to appease that worthless criticism which every official must expect from persons unqualified by
• experience though always ready to pass judgment on any topic, but to satisfy the intelligent, thinking men, who naturally desire
to leant what success men who are sailors by pro''ession have met with under similar circumstances.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

The whale-boat, abandoned September 12, had with its floe drifted down and caught be-
tween Cape Sabine and Brevoort Island, where it was safe and uninjured.

Fast-falling snow on the loth prevented the party moving. Sergeant Rice volunteered
to go with Eskimo Christiansen to Cape Isabella, to ascertain whether the Yantic had left
supplies there for us. Most of the party believed that she must have done so, asserting that
no Navy vessel would have returned to the United States without leaving something for the
party on this coast. The record at Cape Sabine indicated that no other party had visited that
point since Lieutenant Garlington left, and I was necessarily forced to the conclusion that the
Yantic had never succeeded in reaching Littleton Island, and consequently I was reluctant to
send two of the party on a dangerous and trying journey to verify my impression that one
hundred and forty-four pounds of English meat only were cached at Cape Isabella. However,
I finally decided to send them, and they started October 11, at the same time that Lieutenant
Lockwood and party moved northward with a portion of otir load to be hauled across the bay,
over the new route discovered by Sergeant Rice on his return from Cape Sabine. Lieutenant
Lockwood returned that evening, and preparations were made for the abandonment of the
camp at Eskimo Point the next morning.

On the morning of the 12th the entire party started with all our supplies hauled on two
sledges, the temperature being — 8.5° [ — 22.5° C.]. The only things left behind were the
English ice-boat and two paddles, in perfect condition so as to be available for further use
if needful. After seven hours' road work we camped at the point reached by Lieutenant
Lockwood the previous day. Our load was so heav\-, and the party so weak, that all were
thoroughly exhausted on reaching camp.

The surgeon and Lieutenant Kislingbur>' recommended, at that pohit, the abandonment
of everything which could not be hauled at one load, predicting that the party in their en-
feebled condition could not do the work and reach Cape Sabine at that time, and that the load
could be brought up later in the season, and also advised urgently a very large increase in the
rations to forty-two ounces solid food. I refused to abandon either records, instruments, or
any part of our provisions until their ultimate safety was secured, by caching them on the
island where the three provision depots were situated. I, however, slightly increased the
ration, making it twenty-seven and a half ounces of food, of which sixteen were meat.

On the 13th, in ten hours' work, eight of which were on the road, we succeeded in cross-
ing Rosse Bay, although two double trips were necessary. The day then was very short, and
owing to darkness we could travel more than six hours only with difficulty. On the i4tli, in
eleven hours' time, we succeeded in moving our entire loads to the north end of Rice Strait,
about five miles from our previous camp, and had the satisfaction of seeing all our supplies
on the island. This day's work entailed more than fifteen miles traveling, and thoroughly
exhauste 1 the party. We had now (October 14) lost the sun for the winter, owing to the high
land south, though it rose a few days longer above the horizon at noon.

On the morning of October 15, caching about twelve hundred pounds, we started for the
wreck cache cove. I preceded the party with Sergeant Gardiner and Jens, to visit the cache
and determine the point at which it would be best to establish our winter quarters. I reached
the cache in about two hours' travel, and examined its contents as far as it was possible. I
was exceedingly disappointed in the contents, there being scarcely a hundred rations of meat,
instead of five hundred, as I hoped, from Lieutenant Garlington' s record. The record was
vague on that point, saying: "There were five hundred rations of bread, sleeping-bags, tea,
and a lot of canned goods; no time to classify." The last clause caused me to think that
there must be a considerable quantity. The record stated, however, that Lieutenant Garling-
ton had been unable to reach these articles of food again after caching them.

I found the NcptiitircAc\\e of 1882 undisturbed, and went within a mile of Cape Sabine, exam-
ining the coast for a good camp. A careful survey of the entire coast made it evident that no

Uw«SP

THE LAUY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

better place for a camp existed than the neck of land near the wreck cache. The sledge party
reached camp about 2 p. m., having been delayed over two hours by the breaking down of
their sledge, which necessitated its repair and reloading.

Sergeant Rice and Christiansen surprised me, an hour after camping, by their return.
Rice reported that he had visited Cape Isabella, that no whale-boat and only one hundred and
forty-four pounds of English meat could be found. The spirits of the party were generally
depressed by this announcement, as the greater number of the men had been confident that
some stores must have been landed at Cape Isabella by the Yantic. I, however, had been
determined since landing on the coast to base our future only on provisions actually within
reach, considering that stores or game, which we might afterwards obtain, whether by our
own exertions or from others, would be extra guarantees for our ultimate safety.

The rest of October was passed in collecting at our camp the different caches along the
coast, and in hauling in the two whale-boats. The bacon mentioned in Lieutenant Garling-
ton's record of August 12, and the barrel of beef stated in his record of July 26 to have been
left at Cape Sabine, were never found by us. It is certain that the barrel of beef could not
have been safely rolled above tide-water. Lieutenant Garlington's order, of which we found
a copy, directed him ' ' if possible to examine them (caches) and replace any damaged articles
of food," and although his record said he had not visited the English cache, yet I hoped against
hope that he had somehow assurances of its good condition and that it would prove to be
entirely serviceable. On bringing it in, the rum and alcohol were found to have entirely leaked
away or evaporated, the groceries spoiled, and the four hundred and fifty pounds of bread and
dog-biscuit all moldy. Seventy-two pounds of the latter, only a mass of green mold, was
entirely unser\'iceab!e. Dr. Pavy emphatically declared that these slimy biscuits were not only
valueless as food, but that their use would be absolutely injurious to health, an opinion in
which I fully concurred, and so ordered them thrown away. However, as I subsequently
learned, the ravenous condition of some of the party was already such that, despite my pos-
itive order and earnest entreaties, they were all eaten. The canned meat brought in was
good, but the bacon rancid, though all of it was eaten by us later.

A portion of the party were engaged during this period in erecting permanent quarters
on the chosen site, about half a mile from our first camp. I btiilt on the only possible place —
a little neck of land between a fresh-water lake, fed by a glacier of the island, and a cove mak-
ing up from Buchanan Strait about half-way from Cape Sabine to Cocked-Hat Island.

There were many loose rocks which could be cut out of the ice or pried up, and so were
available for btiilding purposes, while near by were large snow-drifts from which snow blocks
were obtained. The house built by us was twenty-five by eighteen feet [7.6'" by 5.485'"]
in the clear, and its ridge was formed by an inverted whale-boat, which rested at its ends on
the walls. The party could just crowd into it while in their sleeping-bags, each man perforce
touching his neighbor. One could stand erect only in the very center of the hut. The com-
missary stores were placed in a snow-house abutting against the main hut, and could be reached
only by leaving our quarters. A plan and description of the hut is in Appendix No. 107.

This work of collecting the supplies and building the house was of the most trying char-
acter. The party, half-starved and indifferently clad, were subjected almost daily to temper-
atures at or below zero [ — 17.8° C], from which frequent slight frost-bites resulted. The
ration on which this hard work was done and severe exposure undergone consisted of a pound
of meat, eight ounces of bread, and one and one-half ounces of evaporated potatoes. The
detailed conditions of this work are briefly set forth in Lieutenant Lockwood's diary. During
this time Private Long and the Eskimo, detailed as hunters, were in the field, at the north end
of Rice Strait, covered only by canvas.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

i !

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At the end of October I decided that oiir
of the smallest living ration. An inventor)'
November i:

Pounds.

Roast beef 125^

English beef 212

Corn beef 72

Seal 115

Pemmican 222^^

Bacon . 232

Ueefextract 50

Butter 93

Lard 50

Soup (forty-eight 2} [wund cans) 120

Bread (very moldy) ...1,395

Rice . 30

Peas (27 cans) 42^^

Com (24 cans) . 374

Carrots (13 cans) 201^'

Tomatoes (24 cans) 60

Raisins 40

only chance of safety consisted in the adoption
showed that the following stores would be left

Pounds.

Onion pickles 80

Cloudberries (46 cans) —

Milk 42

Coffee, extract 86

Chocolate, extract . 61

Chocolate, English (moldy) 15

Potatoes 76|g

Sugar 15

Tea 6SA

Tea, English (moldy and wet) 74

Salt.... li

Pepper , }

Onion powder l|

Blubber (between 200 and 240 pounds) —

Sealskins (2) —

Stearine (fuel) 125

Dog-biscuit (all moldy) 152

In consequence, I announced to the party that I had decided on the following ration, which
would carr>' us to the ist of March, 1884, and leave ten days' rations on a more liberal scale for
the crossing to Littleton Island.

The ration per man, each day, consisted of the following :

Ounces.

Meat 4

Extract of lieef . 0.26

Evaporated potatoes 0.4

Soup 0.6

Tomatoes 0.3

Peas 0.2

Corn 0.2

Carrots o.l

Bread 6

Dog-biscuit 0.8

Ounces.

Butter 0.5

Lard 0.26

Rice 0.1

Raisins 0.16

Tea 0.3

Extract of coffee 0.44

Extract of chocolate 0.3

Pickled onions 0.4

Milk 0.2

Aggregating 14.48 ounces (omitting beverages).

For occasional use as medicine or antiscorbutics the only allowance was: Mulberries,
two-tenths ounce weekly; lime-juice, small quantity weekly; rum, one-half gill weekly; and
one-fourth of a lemon weekly.

I requested that before I ordered this ration to be carried into effect, I might know the
opinions of the various members of the party. Dr. Pavy objected very strongly to the ration
fixed, stating that he would vouch his medical reputation that the party could not possibly
live upon it until March. Most of the party, however, either concurred in my views regarding
the matter, or expressed their willingness to be satisfied with my decision. The opinion of
iny medical officer, put in such strong terms, was exceedingly embarrassing ; the more so as
he declined to give a medical opinion as to the smallest amoutit on which the party could exist.
I felt, however, that it was a case in which I must exercise my own judgment, as the responsi-
bility rested solely upon me; and with this feeling I ordered the ration to be fixed at the figures ■
given, from November i, except in case of any sledge party, when a slightly increased allow-
ance should be granted. The soundness of my judgment was best proved by the fact that no
member of the party died of starvation until six weeks after the date fixed for rations to last,
which was the time planned for our crossing Smith Sound, March i, 1883.

Near the end of October, I reluctantly decided that it would be advisable to send to Cape
Lsabella for the hundred and forty-four pounds of English meat cached there. This meat, if

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

obtained, would add two-thirds of an ounce to our ration, which might mean life. Sergeant
Elison endeavored to construct a Hudson Bay sledge from the whale-boat, but was unsuccessful,
but later, cutting down the six-man sledge to a four-man, I sent Sergeant Rice and three others
on the trip. They were equipped as thoroughly as our means would permit, the rest of the
party contributing ever>"thing in their possession, in the way of clothing, foot and hand gear,
which was needful to comfort. They left on November 2, the temperature at that time being
nine degrees below zero [ — 22.8° C.].

The mean temperature for October was 0.96° [—17.2° C] and of pressure 30.041 [763.03°"»].
These means are drawn from observations broken and irregular consequent on our situation, but
they are substantially correct.

NOVEMBER, 1883.

On the ist of November the party was necessarily divided into two messes — one under
Lieutenant Kislingbury, and the other under the commanding officer. This arrangement con-
tinued during the entire winter, the commanding officer never interfering with the internal
arrangements of the mess of the other party, except on a few special occasions, when authori-
tative intervention seemed necessary in the interest of the expedition.

Bread and meat were issued daily to each mess, and all other supplies weekly. The
quantity of bread and meat to be eaten daily was determined by the commanding officer, but
the arrangement in which other articles should be served out were left to the individual
messes. Each "Issue day" came on Wednesday of each week. On Friday a slight increase
in meat was made, and on Sundays the largest meals of the week were served. Sunday was
furtlier marked as a feast day by the issue of one-fourth of a lemon, a half gill of rum, and
about two ounces of mulberries. These arrangements were planned by me with a view to
breaking up the monotony of the situation, and to divert the men's attention from a rou-
tine which necessarily lasted for over four months. Beneficial results followed from such a
scheme, and during our months of suffering no two days were exactly alike. The cooking,
for the greater part of the winter, was done on a stove constructed by Private Bender from the
sheet-iron sheathing of the launch.

During the early days of November Lieutenant Kislingbury suffered much from a rupture,
received from a fall while engaged in helping to haul in our supplies by sledge. To make
him more comfortable, Lieutenant Lockwood and Dr. Pavy loaned him the mattress which
had fallen to them by lot. The second mattress, given me by common consent as command-
ing officer, had been loaned by me to Sergeant Gardiner who was ill, and later was given to
Sergeant Elison, and so was never used by me.

On the 4th of November regular barometric observations were commenced, being made
from a barometer abandoned by Lieutenant Garlington at Cape Sabine. These observations
were made every four hours from 7 a. m. to 7 p. m., until the instrument was broken, about
three weeks before the final rescue of the party. Gaps in the record necessarily occurred
towards the latter part of the time, owing to the diminishing strength and deaths of the
observers. During i.he winter months of total darkness the thermometer was rarely read,
except at II a. m., as I was unwilling to subject any member of the party to unnecessary
exposure, even in the scientific interests of the expedition.

The messes alternated in their order of cooking, the party which cooked first one day
being the last the day following. The cooks of the messes necessarily worked together, and
the most complete harmony between them was essential to economy of fuel. Privates Fred-
erick and Long did the greater part of the cooking. Steward Biederbick and Private Schneider
also served efficiently at times ; the former never neglecting while cook his arduous and exhaust-
ing services as steward. The greatest credit is due Frederick and Long for the manly, effi-

I ; {[

THE LADY FllANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

dent, and thorough manner in which they performed this onerous and thankless task. Their
skill and efforts not only contributed to the comfort and satisfaction of the party, but also
eked out in a wonderful manner the scanty store of fuel. Private Long did not assume the
duties of cook until after November 8, when he returned from Rice Strait; his equipage and
meat being hauled in by Lieutenant Lockwood and eight others. Long had been in the field
at Rice Strait with Christiansen and Jens for over two weeks, and they had succeeded in
killing four seals, only two of which were secured, which weighed about two hundred and
fifty pounds gross. The service of this hunting party was arduous in the extreme. Covered
only by canvas, and without fire or sufficient rations, they had been subjected to temperatures
as low as — 30° [ — 34.4° C.]. On leaving Fort Conger Private Long had been under medical
treatment, and was regarded by the surgeon as one of the weakest men. His services then
and afterwards showed a remarkable physique as well as evidencing great patience, endur-
ance, and determination.

On the evening of the return of Lieutenant Lockwood's party with Long's outfit, an
extra allowance of rum was issued to the men who had been in the field. Private Schneider,
charged with the duty of issuing, took a quantity without authority, which visibly affected
him. He quit the hut while his supper was cooking, he being the cook, and, not returning,
was sought for and detected coming out the storehouse. A number of articles had been pre-
viously taken, and the general sentiment implicated Schneider in the past thefts. Whether
he entered the storehouse in a responsible mental condition or not, his taking the liquor with-
out authority was equally reprehensible. Schneider was severely reprimanded, and impera-
tive orders against any man entering the commissary storeroom were issued.

On November 9 Lieutenant Lockwood discovered, concealed in an old snow hut, a can of
milk, opened but not disturbed. Marks on the can showed that it had been opened by a
knife belonging to Schneider, but which was at that time in Private Henry's possession, having
been loaned him shortly before. The impression prevailed that Henry was the guilty party.

I was awakened at midnight of November 9 and 10 by footsteps, which proved to be
those of Sergeant Rice, who informed me that Sergeant Elison was dying. I gathered from
his statement that three days' traveling had carried his party to the neighborhood of Cape
Isabella, and that, leaving their bags and rations in camp, they visited Isabella and brought to
camp the one hundred and forty-four pounds of English beef On reaching their bags and
rations it was found that Sergeant Elison was seriously frost-bitten, resulting from his con-
tinued eating of snow, in handling which his hands had become wet and frozen. After two
days' efforts to bring both Elison and the meat in. Sergeant Rice perceived that it was im-
possible to do so, and, in consequence, the rifle and meat were abandoned in Baird Inlet, while
Rice, Linn, and Frederick succeeded in getting Elison to our old camp at Eskimo Point. To
save his life it became necessary to cut up a part of the English ice-boat for a fire. With
great trouble Elison was thawed out, and as soon as he appeared able to travel they left Eskimo
Point for Camp Clay. It was discovered, however, that Elison's powers of resistance to cold
were gone, and he froze immediately on the slightest exposure. On reaching the ridge be-
tween Baird Inlet and Rosse Bay, they were unable to haul Elison over it. A violent stonn
prevented them from cooking. Rice and Frederick decided that the only chance of safety was
in Rice returning to Camp Clay for assistance, while Frederick and Linn remained in the
sleeping-bag to thaw out Elison by the heat of their bodies. Rice had come through from
Eskimo Point to Camp Clay in one march and without food, except a bit of frozen meat eaten
on the way. He was almost entirely exhausted on his arrival. A detailed report of this
remarkable trip, made by Sergeant Frederick since our return, forms Appendix No. 108.

Sergeant Brainard and Christiansen started at 4.30 the morning of November 10, with
medicines and stimulants for Elison's relief They were followed at 6. 30 by Lieutenant Lock-
wood, Dr. Pavy, Jens, Sergeant Jewell, Privates Ellis and Schneider, with the twelve-man

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY liXlMODITION.

sledge. On the evening of the nth Linn and Frederick arrived, reporting Hlison yet alive.
Linn was completely broken down, but Frederick, though greatly e.xluuisted physically, wa.«
in a wonderful condition considering his privations. It may be .said here that Sergeant Linn
never recovered, mentally or physically, from the effects of this trip, and to his sufferings on
this arduous journey I ascribe his early death.

Sergeant Brainard on reaching the bag found Frederick, Eli.son, and Linn frozen in. He
was unable to extricate them from the bag, and fed them in it. On lieutenant Lockwood's
arrival, a few hours later, the men were frozen .so solidly in the bag that it became necessary
to cut it to pieces with a hatchet in order to release them from their imprisomnent.

Lieutenant Lockwood and party arrived with Sergeant Elison about lo a. m. of November
12, having made but one camp during their aksence. Their march was a most extraordinary
one, considering the previous condition of the men, the complete darkness, and the state of
the ice. Lieutenant Lockwood's account will be found in his journal.

This half-starved party of eight men made a round trip of about forty miles, in total dark-
ness and over rough and heavy ice, in forty-four hours, with temperatures ranging from
— 19° [ — 28.3° C] to — 34.5° [ — 36.9° C.]. The remarkable work done by this party appears
the more astonishing, in that this was their third winter within the Arctic circle, that they
had been on short rations for over two months, and had been utterly inactive for the previous
ten days. In the most willing manner, without a murmur, these men ventured their lives on
the mere possibility of rescuing a comrade whom they expected to find dead.

The return of the party completed all sledge work, and winter routine commenced.

The connnissary storehouse had been finished about the 15th, and our stores of food
were under lock and key, which was a great relief to me. While the stores were accessible
to every one, it was not to be wondered at that some few of the men, suffering from terrible
hunger, had been unable to resist the temptation to take a piece of bread or some other food.

On the 20th the meat and bread rations were reduced a fraction of an ounce, which was
done in order to grant an extra allowance to Sergeant Elison. The recommendation of my
surgeon to increase Elison's food very largely could not be complied with in justice to the
rest of the men. I, however, set aside several cans of milk, and nearly all of our sugar, for the
sick man's benefit, and gave him daily ten ounces extra of bread and two ounces of meat ;
counting on five pounds of extract of beef in the medical supplies to eke out this extra
allowance. A' ' -gh this extra allowance, granted by me as commanding officer, gavQ Elison
twice the food . any other man received yet no demur or opposition was ever made to
my action. The feeling seemed general that Elison's helpless condition, having been brought
about in our interest, should of right claim certain sacrifices on our part.

Several foxes were shot during November, and others later during the winter. Twenty-
four in all were killed at Camp Clay, which gave us about ninety pounds of extra meat during
the five months, and just about coimterbalanced the loss in subsistence supplies which resulted
from the unfortunate issue of the expedition to Cape Isabella.

To break the monotony of our winter routine I commenced on November 17 daily
lectures on the physical geog-aphy, the history, the resources, etc., of the United States in
general and the States in detail. The natives of any State generally supplemented my own
knowledge. This arrangement occupied about two hours daily, and was continued throughout
the winter, being omitted only on days when some other means of diverting the mind were
adopted for a change. Readings were given nearly every evening, which lasted from one to
two hours. Although illy able to spare the small quantity of seal-oil needful for the miserable
light used at such times, yet it is impossible to doubt that in no other way could so much benefit
come from it to the party. Later in the winter Dr. Pavy gave many very interesting lectures
on various subjects, physiology, etc.

t
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THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

November 29, the last Thursday in the month, was set apart as a day of Thanksgiving and
Praise. It was celebrated by the addition to unr scanty ration of certain stores reserved by
nic for the day. High spirit:, and general goo<l frcling prevailed throughout the day, and
Sergeant Eli.son, for tlic first time I think, took a new interest in life.

November ended with a storm and a temperature of +3" [ — 16. i°C.]; the first time
above zero [ — 17.8° C] in the month. The party at that time were in good health, though
several had suffered much from constipation.

By the last of the month the party had a full realization of what an Arctic winter, of four
snnle.ss months, in a miserable stone hut, with inadequate food and clothing, meant. The
disposition to bear their ills without discontent was particularly noticeable in the party. The
ice had already covered the inside of our roof, frost several inches thick had formed on the
interior of the walls, and our sleeping bags, without exception, were frozen to the ground.
Consequently there was great and continued suffering from cold, which made .sleep difficult
and so intensified our miseries. Equital)le distribution of the blankets and other coverings
had been made, but several complained bitterly. I deemed it needful for example, to strip
my own sleeping bag, and, later, that of Sergeant Rrainard, for the benefit of others.

The mean temperature of the month was — 21.8° [ — 29. 9°C.], with a maximum of -1-3°
[ — 16.1° C] on the 31st, and a minimum of — 43.5° [ — 4i.9° C] on the 27th.

Tlie mean pressure was 29.803 [756.99"""].

DECEMBER, 1883.

December passed ver\' much as did November. It was marked, however, by the preva-
lence of severe gales, which were extremely trying to us, not only physically but morally
owing to the certainty that Smith Sound must necessarily remain oj)en during the prevalence
of such high winds.

The water-hole in the lake was kept open with extreme difficulty, and on two occasions
I fotnid it necessary to assist in opening it. In general, the manual labor of obtaining ice,
removing slops, etc., was spared me, owing to mental work and trying responsibility.

Sergeant Elison's condition improved very much, and at one time the doctor believed
that both feet would be saved and a part of his hands. On December 29 we commenced
melting ice, over the blubber lamp, for the dressing of Elison's wounds.

After the 2ist of December had passed, the spirits of the party seemed to improve, although
they never could be called bad at any time.

Christmas was celebrated in the same manner as "Thanksgiving Day," by the addition
of certain supplies specially reserved by me for that day. The day was marked by a feeling
of kindly fellowship and an exhibition of Christian spirit which was wonderful.

The most unfortunate experience of the month for me was the detection, on December 3,
of Dr. Pavy purloining the extra food of Sergeant Elison. The detection occurred when the
party were asleep and in total darkness, and Dr. Pavy was ignorant that I knew of his action.
That a phy.sician should treat a helpless patient thus would be trying, but to feel that the
surgeon of the expedition should so fail in his duty to the men and his commanding officer
was exceedingly depressing, and gave me great mental anxiety. I communicated my knowl-
edge of this fact only to Lieutenant Lockwood, as my successor in command, and to Sergeant
Brainard, feeling that an open charge would only result in a denial and bitter discussion. The
importance of the doctor's services to us at that time was manifest to the entire party. Nearly
every one but myself had been treated medically since reaching Sabine, and the demand for
medicine and medical treatment was continually increasing. Whether right or wrong, I felt
the necessity of pursuing conciliatory methods entirely with a man from whose skill and
knowledge was expected such alleviation of the party's miseries as our medicines pennitted.

TUB LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

The mean temperattire of the month was —21.2° [—29.6° C], with a maximum of
F5° [—15° C] on the 5th, and a minimum of — 39.5° [—39-7° C] on the 27th.
The mean pressure was 29.903 [759.53"""].

JANUARY, 1884.

January i was the earliest day on wliich any marked signs of weakness were evident to me.
Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Cross both showed to me on tliat day signs of failing. On
the 2d Elison's right foot was cut off, or rather the shreds which held it to the ankle were
separated. Sergeant Elison remaining in ignorance of the loss of his foot for several months.

On the 2d three pounds of seal-blubber was used for a nnich-debated experiment for cook-
ing — the only blubber used for the purpose.

On the 3d Sergeant Brainard reported to me that the roof of the commissary had been cut
and a small bit of bacon taken, and on the 7th the discovery was made that a hole had been
made in a barrel of bread, on the outside, and a pound or more taken. About this time a
small piece of bacon was taken from the general mess-stores of Lieutenant Kislingbury's
party, and I learned that during the night somebody had been in the habit of scraping out the
seal oil and eating it. All efforts to discover the man guilty of these practices were fruitless,
but every one, Mrithout exception, deplored and condemned them. This state of feeling evi-
denced the general desire for equitable division, but also showed that starvation had such a
hold as to render the resistance to the temptation to take a bit of food almost irresistible.

Elison's birthday was celebrated on the 12th by an allowance to him of an extra half gill
of rum, which cheered him greatly.

The doctor that day reported the mouths of Cross, Schneider, Linn, and Ellis as indica-
ting a possible touch of scurvy, and, in accordance with the surgeon's recommendations, I
forbade the smoking of tea or other substances than tobacco.

Our first death was on the i8th when Sergeant Cross died; he was buried on the 19th.
The burial service was read in the house to save long exposure to low temperature, the
mercury being frozen, and later I accompanied the body to the grave. Lieutenant Kisling-
bury and six others dragged the body, covered by the American flag, to the summit of an
adjoining hill, where the grave was prepared. No salute was fired, as it was thought advis-
able to save the ammunition for hunting. The cause of Cross's death, as announced to the
party, was water arotmd the heart. The fact that this was induced by insufficient food, and
that he had very marked signs of scurvy, was known only to a few.

Lieutenant Lockwood's condition during the month gave me a great deal of anxiety, it
being evident that he was in a very critical state. He was very feeble, quite frequently saw
everything double, and was in an extremely weak condition of mind, which at times bordered
very decidedly on childishness. In accordance with the doctor's instructions he was forbidden
to smoke, on the ground that tobacco injured him.

On the 15th the water from the lake gave out. A hole ctit with great difficulty to the
bottom of the lake gave but a small quantity of sea-water. For some time we had tried to
delude ourselves with the idea that the water obtained from the lake was fresh, but were finally
forced to the conclusion that the lake was largely supplied from the sea, and that we were
drinking sea-water slightly ireshened from ice and snow. The necessity of melting ice obliged
me to reduce the quantity of tea one-half. This deprivation was a great one for many of the
party and depressed them somewhat. For the benefit of others who suffered, I occasionally
melted ice in a rubber bag by the heat of my body, and urged others to do the same.

Sergeant Brainard's private reports as to how the estimated bags of bread were running
enabled me on the 19th to increase the bread half an ounce daily. This announcement in a
manner counterbalanced the depressing influence of Cross's death.

THE LADY FUANKUN BAY EXPEDITION.

I i

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On the 22d Urainard discovered that twelve cans of milk hadl)een stolen, undoubtedly in
November, before tiie lock and ke> was put on the commissary. Tlierc was an intense feeling
nmon^ the party over this news. To counteract the depression caused by the loss of the milk,
I increased the issue of seal-blubber slijfhtly, so that thereafter the weekly ration for each
man was eleven oimces of blubber and fifty-seven of bread. This action had an exceedingly
good effect upon the party, and produced almost incredible joy and pleasure.

On the 22d Privates Henry and Bender v;ere insubordinate and insolent in their language,
the first instance of such a spirit on the part of the enlisted nien.

Gardiner's birthday on the 22d and Biederbick's on the 25th were celebrated by an allow-
ance to each of a half gill of rum.

On the 22d the mattress which Lieutenant Lockwood had nearly three months Ix'fore
loaned to Lieutenant Kislingbury owing to illness, was returned to Lieutenant Lockwood on
account of his weak condition.

On the 26tli I forbade the party eating tea-leaves, as the doctor thought such habit inju-
rious in our condition; but few of the party had persistently indulged in the practice.

Kxtra rations commenced on January 26th for Sergeant Rice and Eskimo Jens, to strengthen
them for their proposed trip to Littleton Island to ascertain the condition of the ice and obtain
assistance from the party suppo.sed to have wintered there. They were given sixteen ounces
daily of bread, sixteen of meat, and four ounces of .seal-blubber. Private Frederick com-
menced on the 28th to enlarge a single-man sleeping-bag and put it i:i co!nfortable condition
so it could be used by Rice and Jens in crossing. The last days in January w{ re occupied by
me in copying our meteorological records and in writing letters to Lieutenant (.iarlington, the
Chief Signal Officer, and others, to be carried to Littleton Island.

An occasional extraordinary allowance of half an ounce of bread or meat was i.ssued to
the party towards the end of the month, always with marked benefit to eacU mentally, if not
physically. The month ended with the party in excelletit spirits. Lieutenant Lockwootl was
ver>'weak, Ellis and Jewell very despondent, and Eskimo Jens complaining.

The mean temperature of the month was — 28. 3° [ — 33- 5°]i with a maximum of — 6°
[ — 21.1° C] on the 31st and a minimum of — 42.0° [ — 41.1° C.J on the 19th and 20th.

The mean pressure was 29.831 [757.70"""].

FEBRUARY, 1884.

On Febniary i, owing to Lieutenant Lockwood's weakness, I decided to issue him daily
an ounce of bread extra and an ounce of meat, and also increased the allowance of the party
generally, by a half ounce of bread daily.

Bender, on the ist, evinced an insubordinate disposition and refused to obey my orders,
when I interfered to stop an extremely violent and bitter discussion between him and another
of the men. In consequence he was ordered out of the hut, with instructions not to return
until he was willing to comply with my orders. An hour's exposure in the cold air of the
outer passage was scarcely sufficient to conquer his unnily spirit.

On February 2 Sergeant Rice and Eskimo Jens left for Littleton Island. They had re-
ceived for the previous week twenty-six ounces extra of solid food, and announced themselves
to be in good condition on leaving. They had six days' rations, on the .scale of one pound of
pemraican, one-fourth pound of blubber, one three-fourths pound of bread, two ounces of rum,
and six ounces of fuel alcohol. A small cooking-lamp had been made by Private Bender,
and the outfit of the two men was remarkalily complete, considering our circumstances. The
thermometer was read by twilight at noon for the first time, and the increasing moonlight was

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY KXPKDITION.

counted on as beinj; of great assistance in the crossinj^. Serjjeant Hniinanl anil I-lskiino
Christiansen carried their packs about a mile and returned much exhausted. Serjeant Kiee
had about forty pounds to cai.-y and Jens al)out thirty-five.

The party in general believed that Lieutenant CJarlington was at Littleton Island with
ample supplies from the Yatttic^ and consequently they CDunted on certain hel]>. I, however,
distinctly announced my belief that Lieutenant Garlington did not land on his way north, as
his record of departure from Pandora Harlx)r and his arrival at Payer Harbor could not have
given him time. There was much di.spute regarding that ix)int, as Lieutenant ' ..irlington's
record, while assuring us of a cache at Littleton Island, did not .say that he examined it or
whether it was large or small. The same notice a.ssured us of a whale-boat at Cape Isabella,
which, nevertheless, could not be foimd. After the Isabella affair I was more than ever lui-
willing to count on anything not immediately under my hand.

On February 3 the allowance of bread was increased about an ounce; and on the same
day two ounces extra of lard was issued, it having been decided that it was not possible to
use it all for dressing Sergeant Klison's wounds.

About this time I learned that some of the men had been eating scraps of cocoanut-
stearine, remaining from making caudles. As these bits were generally covered with verdigris,
I forbade, positively, any such thing in the future.

On the 4th, by the doctor's advice, I ordered the men to keep their heads outside of the
sleeping-bags during the day, and especially enjoined the party to obey strictly all instructions
given by the surgeon regarding the methods of eating their food. The doctor assnatl nie of
Sergeant Elison's final recovery and safe transportation to Littleton Island, under ordinary
circumstances.

On the 4th and 5th Brainard, who had nearly broken himself down with hard work, was
reported by the doctor to be in a dangerous condition. His kidneys and ch';st were much
troubled, and exposure to cold or severe work would endanger him.

On February 6 Sergeant Rice and Jens returned about 2 p. m., well, but thoroughly ex-
hausted, especially the Eskimo. Sergeant Rice reported that open water extended from ten
miles off of Wade Point, and a mile off of Brevoort Island, as far north into Kane Sea as the
eye could reach. At no time was the Greenland shore visible. There was much moving ice
with dense water-clouds along the edge of the fast ice. He thought he reached a point as far
south as Littleton Island, and about ten miles distant. The two men suffered very much, as
might be supposed; the temperature being from — 18° to — 36° [ — 27.8° to — 37.8° C], with
one severe stonn. The party, strange as it may seem, did not appear much depressed by the
unfavorable report.

The ration was increased slightly on the 7th to counteract the effect of Rice's return; the
increase coming from our scanty stock of lard and blubber. This increase was for mental
influence, however, and a couple of days later I reduced the ration of bread slightly, and in-
formed the party that on that scale we had enough to last ns until the 6th of March, with a
residue of fifteen days for crossing the straits, on a ration of twelve ounces of bread and ten of
pemmican.

On the I ith a number of the men expressed a strong desire for water, as it was over a month
since any of the party had had drinking water. I was able to furnish Lieutenant Lock wood
a little from ice melted by the heat of my body, and encouraged others to obtain it in like
way. On the same day the preparation of foot and hand gear for crossing the strait was com-
menced. I being determined to have everything in order for crossing in case of Smith Sound
freezing over by the loth of March. Private Frederick, though still the cook, took general
charge of the work, assisted by Private Schneider and Jens. One of the men said he did not
believe we would ever reach Littleton Island, the first remark of that kind that was ever heard.

[I '

I -\

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

The rum was found short the evening of the nth; the calculation being based on the
ganger's certificate. I was somewhat worried about the matter until, on Sergeant Israel's
suggestion, I was satisfied that the deficit was caused by the rum being issued in an Eiiglish
measure, which is sliglitly larger than the American. In consequence of the shortage, rum
was issued after that day only medically on prescription, instead of regularly on Sundays.

On the 1 6th Dr. Pavy requested two ounces extra meat on alternate days to Sergeant
Elison, which I ordered with reluctance owing to previous circumstances.

February 17th the sun was above the horizon for the first time in one hundred and fifteen
days. Several, including myself, had not seen it since October 13.

Sergeant Rice visited the summit of the island on the i8th and saw much open wattr
with many large floes, which to the east appeared to touch and afford a possible passage. The
straits were doubtless wide open, though we tried to delude ourselves with the idea that they
were not. Private Long made his first trip for game on this day, but saw only fox tracks.

The 19th Privates Bender and Schneider quarreled in their sleeping-bags and came to
blows — the first struck in the expedition ; Bender being the aggressor. I reproved both men,
however, and forbade such a condition of affairs again.

On the 20th Privates Lotig and Frederick went hunting, but saw nothing except a raven;
our first bird — possibly our neighbor who left us in November.

Sergeant Ralston was troubled at this time with a felon ; Sergeant Jewell and SHward
Biederbick had been similarly affected. Sergeant Gardiner's finger, which had been disabled
from a felon nearly ail winter, was well.

Sergeant Rice on the 21st visited the summit, and reported that the ice had apparently
formed a bridge some five or eight miles wide from Cape Sabine to the Greenland coast. To
the north some water spaces were seen but to the south nothing but open water. A horse-
shoe cur\'e near Cape Napoleon indicated solid ice aear that point. The spirits of the party
were visibly improved by the gratifying report. T'le English sledge was got out that day and
put in order for crossing.

On the 19th Lieutenant Kislingbury transmitted to me (Appendix No 109) a communica-
tion recommending the abandonment of my plan of crossing with the entire party, and that
he with the strongest be allowed to cross to Littleton Island for game or assistance, leaving
the weak behind. This proposal struck me as an abandonment to their fate of the weakest
of the party. I brought it to the attention of the men and informed them that the party
could not be divided with my consent, and, as long as my authority remained, no one should be
deserted or abandoned luitil we had thoroughly exhausted all efforts. A careful estimate
of the outfit showed that we would have a ton and a half weight to haul in crossing the
straits, without counting Lieutenant Lockwood who was unable to travel. Heavy gales con-
tinued for several days immediately after, which tried me very much mentally, as I realized
the utter futility of hoping for the straits to freeze over during such storms.

The barometer rose 1.50 inch [38. 10"""] in twelve hours on the 26th, and water in large
quantities, indeed a veritable sea, was to be seen to the north of us. Conflicting opinions were
offered as to the prospect towards Greenland; some thinking that a bridge had formed by the
ice catching and others not.

Private Henry's twenty-eighth birthday was celebrated by giving iiim a half-gill of rum.

On the 29th the small four-man sledge was brought into the house and lashed for crossing.
We were trying very hard to delude ourselves with the idea that we should have an opportunity
for using the sledge and foot and hand gear, which had been put in order for crossing Smith
Soimd to Littleton Island.

The mean temperature of the month was — 21.2° [ — 29.6° C], with a maximum of -|-13°
[ — 11.1° C] on the 19th, and a mitriinirn of — .|2° [ — 41.1° C] on the 12th.

The mean pressure was 29.712 [754.6/"""].

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

MARCH, 1884.

The ist day of March brought the date fixed the previous autumn for crossing Smith
Sound. We had lived to that time on a ration declared to be impossible for the sustenance of
life, only to encounter other misfortunes. Smith Sound was open for miles from Krevoort
Island to the eastward and northward, and the party were in such diminished strength from
five months' fasting, that the boat could not be moved from the roof of the building by our
united efforts. My purpose still held to attempt the crossing by sledges if an ice-bridge only
formed, but my hopes in that direction weakened, and later in the month I publicly aban-
doned all hope '•'*■ the Sound freezing over.

Spring opened with twenty-four living, of whom twenty-two were yet in health, though
very materially reduced in physical strength from the small ration. Sergeant Klison's wounds
had healed much, and suppuration was substantially arrested. Lieutenant Lockwood was
very weak, and, according to the surgeon's report, his mind was yet affected.

Two ounces extra meat were issued to Elison on the ist, and a similar amount on occa-
sional dates during the month.

On the ad the last milk was used for Sergeant Elison, and our variety of food was very
materially reduced by the exhaustion of the various articles, which had been arranged so as
to last until March i.

The 3d I informed the party that we could live on present supplies until the early days of
April, and that up to the 16th we would still have sufficient food io eiTect a crossing.

Steward Biederbick was sick on the 4th, the illness resulting from his extremely arduous
labors in caring for Sergeant Elison and the other sick men during the few weeks previous.
The care of Sergeant Elison's wounds had fallen almost entirely on Steward Biederbeck, who,
throughout the entire experiences of the expedition, was most unremitting in his attention
and devotion to the sick and dying of the party. No work was too arduous or nursing too
exacting to lessen his zeal or attention.

From the 6th our ration consisted of only four ounces of meat and eight of bread. That
day Private Henry complained of chest troubles.

Private Long, though still cook, went hunting on the 7th as far as Brevoort Island, but
saw only two fox and bear tracks. Sergeant Rice saw two ptarmigan that day, b'lt unfor-
tunately was without a gun. Lieutenant Kisliugbury, while hunting on the stranded floe,
being about three-quarters of a mile distant, unluckily broke through the ice and wet his feet.
He saw some bear tracks only.

On the 9th Sergeant Rice and Private Frederick volunteered their services to attempt the
recovery of one hundred poinids of English meat, abandoned in order to save Sergeant
Elison's life the previous November in Baird Inlet. I was then unwilling and declined to
allow such a dangerous trip to be undertaken.

Sergeants Brainard and Rice hunted ptarmigan on the loth, but saw none. Brainard
had a fine view of the straits from the summit of the island, and reported inimcu' e quantities
of ice to the eastward, which increased the chances of crossing, though my opinion held that
it would more probably be changed by the first heavy tide or high wind.

March 9, I judged the chances of crossing to Littleton Island substantially gone, and so
decided to send Private Long and Eskimo Christiansen to Alexandra Harbor in search of
game, which should be found in that quarter, according to the observations of Sir George
Nares in 1875, which showed the undoubted presence of occasional game. Sergeants Brainard,
Long, and Frederick prepared Long's outfit on the loth, and they started on the nth, a clear,
* calm morning, the temperature — 19. 1° [ — 28.4° C ]. Rice and Ellis hauled Long's sledge to
Cocked-Hat Island, and returned much exhausted by their exertions. Long and Christiansen
were fitted out as thoroughly as was possible. They were allowed as a field ration eight

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

I!
i {

'I
ft

11 ill

ounces of meat, eight of bread, and six of fuel alcohol, and a small r-iantity of rum and
ammonia for medical purposes. They were given three ounces extra f - ;d for their breakfast
before starting. I was sanguine of some success from this trip, owing to the many signs of
game seen by Nares in 1875, and felt that if the valley was of sufficient size to affiird winter
pasturage for musk-ox and reindeer, our party would be saved, as I well knew Long was certain
of securing game if he ever saw any.

The variability of spirits and the indomitable courage of the party were evidenced by
Sergeants Israel, Jewell, and Brainard volunteering to go into Hayes Sound for geographical
exploration in May, in case Long succeeded in obtaining game, and later the doctor added his
name. I talked much of sending a party into that Sound in May for the purpose of explora-
tion, more to encourage the men than for any other purpose, and such discourse and planning
appeared to have borne good fruit.

On the i2th the sun struck our hut for the first time. It was the first day in five months
that the entire party could have seen it. During the day. Sergeant Brainard hunted as far
as Cape Sabine, but saw only a fox track. Dense water-clouds prevented any extended view
of the straits. Sergeant Rice saw ptarmigan tracks on the 13th, and Lieutenant Kislingbury
followed them up without result.

Private Long returned unexpectedly at 7.15 p. m. of the 13th from Alexandra Harbor,
both he and Christiansen being very much exhausted. They saw no game except a raven,
and no tracks save of a fox. They examined thoroughly the valleys of Alexandra Harbor,
and Long visited the western side of Mount Carey, and, with his field-glasses, looked farther
westward into Hayes Sound than had ever been the good fortune of any previous explorer.
He discovered three new capes on the north side of the Sound, the most westerly of which I
named "Cape Francis Long," in his honor. Apparently the Sound was closed some twenty
miles to the westward by land, on which I have since placed the name of Commodore Schley.
On the south side I have placed the name of Sergeant Israel, as a slight testimony to the
courage, fidelity, and ability of my late astronomer.

Long reported that Bache Island terminated some distance to the southeast of Cape Baker,
and that a high, rocky island, similar in appearance to Cocked-Hat Island, was situated just to
the westward of Bache Island. Several small, unimportant, rocky islands were discovered
along the shore between Rice Strait and Alexandra Harbor. Long examined carefully the
whole of Alexandra Harbor, passing over the edge of the Twin Glacier, and was positive that
no game was to be found in that section. From Mount Carey no signs of game could be seen
to the westward, but he thought it possible that in the vicinity of Cape Long or Cape Baker
game might be procured. Their sleeni iig-bag froze up so badly that they were unable to get
into it, except up to their breast, and Private Long, taken ill with cramps, suffered greatly,
and was only able to travel after being revived by a mixture of ammonia and rum. The
account of his trip, as abridged and entered in my journal from his account at the time, forms
Appendix No. no.

On March 14 I announced to the party that we could live at on- present camp four weeks
longer on substantially the same ration we were then eating, and while such an arrangement
would leave nothing for crossing Smith Sound, it would insure our safety if a party at Lit-
tleton Island should reach us. The same day Sergeant Brainard succeeded in killing a ptarmi-
gan, the first game obtained since a fox early in February. Sergeant Rice, hunting, cro.ssed
the island into Rosse Bay in three hours, and visited the grounded bergs in that bay, hoping
to find seals, but saw no traces of them. He returned via Payer Harbor much exhausted,
having seen no game but a raven. He reported considerable ice to the northward in Kane
Sea, but there was much open water to the south of Cape Sabine.

On the 15th the doctor reported Gardiner's finger, which had troubled him since the 29th
of September, as entirely well, and Ralston's finger better.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Sergeant Brainard killed three ptarmigan that day; Jens hunting saw no game. Lieu-
tenant Kislingbury visited the grounded berg and saw five dovekies in winter plumage, and
tracks of a bear, followed by a fox.

The i6th, at a temperature of — 35° [ — 37.2° C], Long and Christiansen went with the
kayak to the water pool for dovekies, and succeeded in killing four. They weighed a pound
each, and were yet in winter plumage. A seal of several hundred pounds weight was seen in
the pool, but was unfortunately missed at short range by Christiansen.

Saint Patrick's Day was marked by a reduction of bread to five ounces weekly. Lieu-
tenant Kislingbury, hunting, saw a seal and got no shot, but Jens killed a ptarmigan.

Sergeant Brainard on the 17th found ten ounces of English chocolate, which, covered by
the snow, had been overlooked in the storehouse. The party were very much pleased at this
discovery, but I thought it best to set aside the chocolate as a lu.xury for Sergeant Elison, very
much to the poor fellow's gratification, and without objection from any one as far as I could
then infer, I regret to state that later in the month the chocolate was stolen ; all circum-
stances pointed to Private Henry as the offender.

On the i8th the surgeon reported that Christiansen was affected by dropsical effusion,
similar to Sergeant Brainard's late attack, and considered it advisable for the native to refrain
from hunting and exposure. His trip with Private Long nearly broke him down physically,
as did that of Jens with Sergeant Rice.

Private Long hunted on the 20th but saw only two dovekies. Private Henry saw three
owls or falcons flying northward, and Sergeant Rice saw a raven while hunting shrimps ; an
occupation just commenced by him. The idea was advanced by me the previous autumn, but
at that time was impracticable ; he succeeded in getting only a couple of ounces the first day.

Our wood was gone on the 20tli, leaving only stearine and alcohol for fuel unless we
should touch our whale-boat, which remained to that time intact.

On the 2 1st Lieutenant Kislingbury was sick, and fainted of pain from a carbuncle. Jens
was troubled with dropsical effusion, but on account of the exigency I was obliged to send him
and Christiansen to hunt on alternate days. On the same day Sergeants Rice, Gardiner, and
Frederick succeeded in devising nets and rakes for catching shrimps and dredging sea-weed,
and over a hundred pounds of shrimps were caught by the end of the month. These shrimps
were what are known as sea-fleas, and were so small that over thirteen hundred were required
to fill a ^i7l measure.

On the 23d, as Lieutenant Lockwood enters in his diary: "Lieutenant Greely announced
this morning that we could run along on the present ration until April 6, and the*" by cutting
down to three ounces of meat per day, without bread, we could exist to May i. ' nis is most
encouraging."

The entire party nearly perished on the 24th from asphyxiation from alcohol fumes result-
ing from cooking without opening the chimney, which was close^ nights. Several of the
party became unconscious; and those that were able went into the open air. The cause of our
trouble was discovered bv Sergeant Gardiner. Sergeants Brainard and Israel and Steward
Biederbick were for a time apparently dead. Sergeant Brainard and one or two others were
slightly frozen by exposure to the outer air, and my own hands were frosted above the second
joints to such an extent that for several days they were utterly useless, and it was nearly two
weeks before I could use them without great suffering. The temperature at that time was
about twenty-five degrees below zero [ — 31.7° C.].

Private Henry improved the confusion resulting from the helpless condition of his com-
rades to steal a piece of bacon from one of the messes. The evidence against Henry was
positive, and after a thorough investigation every man without exception voted him guilty.
Proposals to use violence were promptly overruled by me, but Private Henry was relieved
11. Mis. 3!»3 G

11!

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

from duty and |Sat under surveillance, until the diminished strength of the party rendered it
absolutely necessary to release him and permit him to do his part of the work.

Sergeant Brainard killed a fox on the 25th, but other daily hunting had no results until
the 27th, on which day Private Long killed thirty-eight dovekies; thirty-three of which Jens
secured by means of his kayak. These birds were killed in open water, which was about two
miles distant from our hut. On the 28th Christiansen shot a ptarmigan, and Long killed
fourteen more dovekies, to which Sergeant Rice added another ptarmigan on the 29th. Al-
though a small seal and some other dovekies were seen during the month, no opportunity of
shooting them presented itself. This early game apparently insured our safety.

From the 2otli to the 31st a slight increase of food was given to Long and Jens daily, for
lunch while hunting. Christiansen was worse at the end of the month, and Lieutenant
Lockwood in a very weak condition. Frederick, for a wonder, was sick on the 31st, and
Biederbick was relieved from cooking on the 26th owing to his suffering from anaemia.
Contrary to the doctor's advice he had insisted on doing the cooking for a considerable time,
in addition to his nursing and other trying services as steward in caring for Elison's wounds,
and in administering medicines to Lieutenant Lockwood and others.

The mean temperature of the month was — 16.6° [ — 27.0° C], witha maximum of +3.0°
[ — 16.1° C] on the 31st, and a minimum of — 35.2° [ — 37-3° C] on the ist.

The mean pressure was 29,823 [757.49"'"]-

APRIL, 1884.

Private Long and Jens hunted indefatigably from the ist to the 5th, during which time
Long killed eleven dovekies and two ptarmigan and saw several seals. Sergeant Rice and
Corporal Salor continued catching shrimps by nets, bringing in from twelve to thirty pounds
daily, until the 7th, when Corporal Salor broke down and Sergeant Brainard was obliged to
temporarily take his place.

Christiansen was given daily four ounces extra food from the ist, but the increase proved
of no avail and he died on the 5th of starvation; his body showing, however, a few signs of
scurvy. The industry, loyalty, and fidelity of this Eskimo were undoubted. His death, the
first one from starvation, naturally had a depressing effect. It determined me to send Ser-
geant Rice and Priv^ate PVederick after the English meat in Baird Inlet; a course I had hesi-
tated over, despite their tender of services and their declared certainty of success. They were
fitted out as thoroughly as possible, and, contrary to their wishes, they were given an extra
allowance of food, amounting in all to six ounces of pemmican and six ounces of bread, daily,
while in the field. This slight increase was deprecated by them as they wished to attempt their
work on the regular ration, which was plainly impossible. They left on April 6, the day on
which Sergeant Linn died.

Linn's early death resulted, without much doubt, from the severe mental and physical
shock arising from his privations in November, 1883. He was a faithful, hardworking man,
an excellent and subordinate soldier, whom, in nearly three years' services, I had never but
once found reason to complain of

I commenced issuing four ounces extra meat to Lieutenant Lockwood on the 6th of April,
which continued until his death, which occurred on the 9th. I have elsewhere in various ways
alluded to the success and importance of Lieutenant Lockwood's geographical work, and as to
the qualities displayed therein. As to his personal qualities they were such as invariably com-
manded respect, though his quiet, retiring disposition did not tend to make friends quickly.
Slow in forming an opinion, his judgment was excellent when matured. He was loyal, brave,
true,and his whole character was based on virtues of which gentleness and Christian charity were
essential parts.

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Burial services were read over Lieutenant Lockwood, Sergeant Linn, and Eskimo Chris-
tiansen, and as much formality and care were exercised in their burial as the weak state of the
party would permit.

In consequence of Lieutenant Lockwood's death I felt constrained to formally order
Lieutenant Kislingbur>' to duty with the expedition, although he was at the time mentally and
physically disqualified for duty of any character. In assigning Lieutenant Kislingbury to duty
I publicly complimented him for the marked energy and efficient manner in which he had
labored toward collecting stores and building the house the preceding autumn, whereby he had
injured himself by overwork and straining.

Steward Biederbick had informed me on the 9th of Dr. Pavy taking Elison's bread,
and that four entire cans of extract of beef, entrusted to the surgeon as medical stores, had
been consumed by the doctor. Though Dr. Pavy denied ever having the cans, yet later Steward
Biederbick found three of them empty under the head of the doctor's sleeping-bag. On the
loth I felt obliged to officially inform Lieutenant Kislingbury of Dr. Pavy's improper actions
relative to Sergeant Elison, so that in case of my death he might know what to expect.

On the nth Sergeant Brainard, who, owing to Corporal Salor's sickness, had taken upon
himself the duties of shrimping in addition to the issuing of supplies, came in utterly exhausted,
and reported that a bear was coming up the ice-foot. Private Long and Eskimo Jens went
out and following hiin nearly two miles, succeeded iii killing him within thirty feet of the
open water. Lieutenant Kislingbury started out b,. vas unable to go more than a hundred
yards. The bear was hauled in by the strongest oi" the party and appeared to promise our
future safety, as it was believed game could be readily obtained after the ist of May. Private
Long's success in killing this bear (for Long's shot killed him after Jens had simply struck
his leg) showed the same nerve and skill which had made him the acknowledged hunter of the
expedition. To Long's great patience, iron endurance, and reliable marksmanship were due
part of the seals of the previous autumn, the birds of the early spring, and this great addition
to our food, which undoubtedly saved the remnant of the party. As some reward I ordered his
promotion to be sergeant, and transferred him to the Signal Corps, vice Sergeant Jewell, who
died at that time. It seemed to me then imperative to ultimate safety to insure some definite
reward for such extraordinary services. In this as other similar cases my action could not be
confirmed, as it was decided to be beyond my authority to so transfer, except by application
to the War Department.

Sergeant Jewell died of starvation on the 12th. Burial services were read in the hut as
usual, and he was buried on the hill. Sergeant Jewell proved himself a most efficient and
conscientious observer, and, despite his apparently weak physique, performed for the expe-
dition very effective bcn^ices in the field. He crossed Robeson Channel on sledge trips more
frequently than had any of his comrades or predecessors.

Private Frederick returned at 2 p. m. of the 13th, reporting Rice's death from exhaustion
the previous Wednesday in Baird Inlet, some six miles from our old camp at Eskimo Point.
The remarkable energy and excellent judgment displayed by Private Frederick in his trying
trip, is modestly but incompletely shown by his report, which forms Appendix No. in.
Private Frederick distinguished himself during this disastrous journey, and brought in the
entire load hauled out by the two; and, remarkable to say, did his work on the scanty ration of
six ounces of meat and six of bread, not availing himself of additional increase authorized by
me in case of extraodinary circumstances. His extremely valuable services, as one of the
supporting party to the " Farthest North," as engineer at the critical point of our retreat, as
cook during the terrible winter, and as hunter and general worker in the more disastrous spring,
all showed the stamp of no ordinary man. As some reward an order was issued promoting him
to be sergeant, and transferring him to the Signal Corps, as of date of Sergeant Rice's death.
These orders were not confirmed by the War Department, as being beyond my power. Private
Frederick's report merits careful reading.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

ill

Sergeant Rice was a young man of decided pronise. A skillful and enthusiastic pho-
tographer, he had also fitted himself for law and had been admitted to the bar. Clever,
cultivated, and amiable, he endeared himself to his comrades at Fort Conger. In addition to his
excellent work as photographer, his manly strength and aptitude for field work liad also been
e-xercised in valuable services for the expedition, particularly during our retreat. He was
ever ready to venture his life for his comrades, as shown by his extraordinary trips to Cape
Sabine, to Cape Isabella (twice), and towards Littleton Island. He volunteered for the fatal
journey, conscious of the dangers, but was impelled to do so owing to our desperate straits,
and in hopes of saving his starving comrades.

The bear killed by L,ong and Jens on April 1 1 added so materially to our supplies, that
I commenced on the 14th issuing to each man a pound of meat daily. In addition to this
pound, eight ounces extra were given to Sergeant Elison and to the hunters and shrimpers —
Private Long, Eskimo Jens, and Sergeant Brainard.

The doctor informed me that my heart was in a very bed condition and death might
result at any time. Lieutenant Kislingbury was then suffering from mental weakness, and,
owing to the condition of affairs, I felt constrained to order the issixe of four ounces extra
pemmican and two ounces of bread for that day to myself. This measure had been urged
on me by Sergeants Brainard, Israel, Ralston, Private Frederick, and others, but although
I had freely ordered extra supplies for other urgent cases, I felt a natural delicacy to do so
for mjself. The few days on which these issues were made should be found noted in Ser-
geant Brainard's diary. Extra rations of eight ounces of meat daily were issued from the 12th
to Sergeant Israel, owing to his failing.

Sergeant Gardiner was very poorly on the 15th, and the doctor stated he would die next.
Owing to his depressed condition, I gave him half a gill extra of rum.

(3n the i6th I relieved Ralston as cook in our mess ; some of the party asserting that
he did not fairly divide our scanty food. This was the first time in five and a half months of
extreme suffering, that, despite the constantly morbid and distrustful conditions of our minds,
such complaint had been made in our mess. One or two similar complaints had been made .
in Lieutenant Kislingbury' s mess, but after investigation by ihat officer they were considered
by him and the majority of the party to be not well founded.

In connection with this division of food it may be proper to evidence the general good
behavior of our cooks, and the general spirit of confidence and fair dealing by the rest of the
party, by contrasting our conditions with those experienced by McClure's party in Mercy Bay.
McClure's force of men was for months on reduced rations, which aggregated, however, nearly
three times as much solid food, with infinitely superior shelter, than our own ; and yet Dr.
(now Sir) Alexander Armstrong states that in the officers' mess they alternated as carvers, and
to insure fairness each selected his piece of meat, leaving the last to the carver. This same
plan of division, at the solicitation of the cooks, was offered by me to my own and to Lieu-
tenant Kislingbury's mess. My own mess persistently refused to adopt it, but Lieutenant
Kislingbury's mess, for a week or so, alternated in distributing portions, but regretted doing
so, and ultimately returned to our method of trusting the cook.

The doctor, on the i8th, made a detailed report of the party, stating that Lieutenant
Kislingbury, Biederbick, Israel, (xardiner. Council, and Whisler were quite weak. He stated
I was improving very slowly : and in consequence no extra food was issued to me.

On April 19 Long detected Dr. Pavy drinking part of Schneider's rum. On the 21st
Israel's allowance of eight ounces extra meat, which had been issued since the 12th, was
discontinued. The doctor .said if it was continued he would be obliged to recommend it
equally for Lieutenant Kislingbtiry, Biederbick, Gardiner, and Ellis.

In con.seqnence of no game being obtained the meat allowance was reduced from si.xteen
to ten ounces, depressing naturally the spirits of the party. The day following, Dr. Pavy and

CgilUBji"-

tHE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Lieutenant Kislingbury (Appendix No. 112) recommended an increase of meat to one pound,
which would have entirely exhausted our provisions Ly the ist of May at the latest. I could
not consent to their recommendation, but finally conceded some change, and ordered an increase
of twelve ounces from the 24th.

On the 22d the great trouble with my heart, doubtless augmented by my mental anxiety
over the arguments about the daily rations, seemed to indicate the near approach of my own
death. In consequence detailed instructions were given to Sergeant Brainard as to the course
to be pursued in case of my sudden death, and he was informed that a letter written some time
before would be found on my person, which ordered him to assume command in case of my
death; as Lieutenant Kislingbury was unfit either mentally or physically to do so.

Private Schneider, the cook, refused to prepare supper that evening on the plea of inability,
although reported by the surgeon to be physically able, and, in consequence, I insisted on
replacing him by myself as cook, hoping to overcome his disinclination by personal example.
It having no effect, however, I informed him the following morning that if he did not cook
he could not eat; which had the desired effect. The man's mental condition was pitiable,
but necessity demanded he should do the work he was able to.

On April 23, as fuel failed. Privates Bender and Henry commenced tearing out the inside
of the boat, which had a depressing effect upon the party, as its destruction seemed to foretell
the fate of the entire party. It was necessary, however, as the last stearine was used for cook-
ing on that day, and the seven gallons of alcohol remaining would serve a better purpose as
food, and of eking out our meat, bread, and other supplies, of which we had about three
hundred and fifty pounds including shrimps.

Dr. Pavy that morning requested to be relieved from feeding Sergeant Elison, and Sergeant
Ralston assumed the duties by my orders. Dr. Pavy alleged the effect of smoke upon his eyes
as the reason, but Sergeant Elison later reported that he had detected Dr. Pavy appropriating
his bacon while feeding him the night before, and Elison requested that I should note the fact
in my journal. The opening of the boat admitted light so that one could see for the first
time in six months what was being done. It is evident that Elison's food had all these months
paid regular toll to Dr. Pavy.

To show the general spirit of unselfishness, it may be stated that Sergeant Ralston spilled
his stew and Private Schneider his tea the same morning, but others contributed from their
meager portions to replace that lost. In previous cases of loss of food or drink by accident,
some of the party invariably contributed or offered their mite to replace it. Four ounces extra
meat each was given to Sergeants Israel and Gardiner.

On the 24th I put in practice Dr. Pavy's recommendation to withhold the eight ounces
meat to Brainard for shrimp hunting, and do the work by detail {:jm the strongest of the
party. Dr. Pavy, Sergeant Brainard, and Private Schneider alternated in the work for three
days, with the result that the»doctor got nothing and Schneider about ten pounds or so. As
a result, a pound of meat was saved and from thirty to forty pounds of shrimps lost, and
Private Schneider injured by a bad fall. In consequence I returned to the former plan and
issued eight ounces extra meat to Sergeant Brainard. While shrimping on the 25th Brainard
shot two ptarmigan, which made up his extra allowance of meat for four days.

Sergeant Israel's and Gardiner's daily allowance of four ounces extra meat continued
until April 29, except that on the latter day four ounces went to Steward Biederbick instead
of to Sergeant Gardiner.

In deference to Dr. Pavy's expressed and reiterated medical opinion, I commenced, the
25th, to issue half a gill of diluted alcohol to the hunters. Fearing the influence of alcohol
on the nerves of a half-starved man, I had opposed issuing it before they went out, believing it
should be taken by the hunters on their return. April 26, the first day's hunting after the issue

i 4

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITIOIJ.

of alcohol, Jens, from behind a screen at his own selected point, fired at an Ugsnk seal and
missed him inside of a distance of forty yards [37™].

Abont that time Dr. Pavy submitted two written reports (Appendices Nos. 113 and 114),
the suggestions of which I could only adopt in part.

On the 27th Private Henry took advantage of my illness, and of others being in their
sleeping-bags, to prepare the diluted alcohol, and took extra liquor to such an extent as to
intoxicate himself. His condition was first discovered by lyieutenant Kislingbury, who lay
next him. The disgust of every one at such baseness was excessive, but he was spared again.

On the 29th Jens and Long went hunting, as they had done every suitable day during the
month. At 2.30 p. m. Private Long returned and reported that Jens was drowned about noon,
by the cutting of his kayak by young ice. The kayak and our only reliable rifle, the Army
Springfield, were lost. Long, at a very great ri.sk, endeavored to reach the body and the kayak
during the time it remained near. The death of Eskimo Jens caused great sorrow, not only
on account of our critical condition, but for the strong affection all had for his great heart-
edness, unvarying truthfulness, and strict integrity.

On the 30th Lieutenant Kislingbury was in a very depressed condition and showed such
signs of mental derangement that I wrote out a second letter ordering Sergeant Brainard to
assume command in case anything went wrong with me, having destroyed the first at a time
when Lieutenant Kislingbury' s mental condition had temporarily improved.

Sergeant Brainard caught during April (from the 7th) four hundred and sixty pounds of
shrimps and two pounds of sea-weed.

The mean temperature of the month was — 0.95° [ — i8.3°C.], with a maximum of -1-19.8°
[ — 6.8° C] on the i6th and a minimum of — 24.0° [ — 31.1° C] on the 12th.

The mean pressure was 30. 136 [765.44"'™].

. '. - ' \ _

MAY, 1884. i

The first days of May I was dangerously ill from excessive constipation and incipient
inflammation of the bowels, which yielded but gradually to Dr. Pavy's skillful treatment.

On the 3d Pri vate Long* made an exhausting trip of fourteen hours to Rice Strait and
killed a seal, which sank after it had drifted within a few yards of him — a sad loss for us.

On the same day Private Whisler was detected taking about a pound of bacon from the
storehouse, the door of which had been forced. Privates Henry, Bender, and Whisler were
outside the hut, having left in the order named. Whisler claimed that the door must have
been forced by Bender or Henry, as he saw it open on passing out, and, looking in, his
terrible hunger overcame his principles. About two pounds of bacon and a half poimd of
pemmican, besides what Whisler was detected with, were missing, which, with other circum-
stances, pointed to the truthfulness of Whisler's confession, which he continually asserted to
his dying moments. Private Whisler moreover expressed his willingness to be killed or meet
any other fate the party might award, but deplored his mental weakness which caused his
sinning. I believed the man's confession and in his deep repentance, which he manifested to
his dying day.

On the 5th Dr. Pavy urged a largely increased issue of shrimps, of which some sixty
pounds over the current issue had been accumulated by Sergeant Brainard's indefatigable
exertions. As we had but a week's meat I refused.

On the same day after this refusal Dr. Pavy made trouble by uttering publicly false
statements on three different points, regarding his medical reports made to me daily in French.
An acrid discussion followed, and, to avoid demoralizing influences, I ordered him four times
to stop the discussion, and finally told him that were he not the doctor I should kill him for
his present and past behavior. Private Bender then joined in the matter, and, despite repeated

ih 1

laE LAl3V FRANKIilN BAY EXPEDITION.

orders, would not be quiet until I attempted to jjet Private Long's gun to shoot him. It is
appropriate to state here that this was the only occasion durinfj our eijjht months at Cape
Sabine that I was oblijjed to resort to violent threats to insure the execution of my orders.
The only other occasion on which direct orders were not obeyed has been referred to in case of
Private Bender, who was put out of the hut for an hour, and Private Schneider, who pleaded
inability to perform his work. When reiterated orders jjiven to a party in such extremities
are not obeyed, it is evident that unless they are enforced at all hazards all bonds of discipline
are at an end, and threats of force to insure obedience are fully justifiable.

Privates Long and Frederick hunted long and diligently through the month without prac-
tical success, though Frederick saw white whales and many seals, and succeeded on the nth
in killing in a water pool an Ugsiik seal, which unfortunately sank before reaching the edge of
the ice. Long saw many seals, but had no possible chance of killing one. Sergeant Brainard
continued regularly obtaining shrimps and dredging sea-weed.

Sergeant Israel's extra allowance of four ounces of .meat stopped on the loth. On the
same date my journal notes the entire freedom of the channel from ice, as it had been for a
few days previous; and also my positive opinion that there could be no party at Littleton
Island, or we would ere this have seen them at Cape Sabine by boat.

On the i2th, after consultation with Sergeant Brainard, I ordered the issue of our last
meat and tallow, which included rations for the 15th of May. After the experience of May
3 it appeared barely possible that one of the worst men of the party might break into the
storehouse and appropriate the small quantity of remaining food, hoping thus to save himself
at the expense of the others.

The issue of our last regular food leads me to speak of Sergeant Brainard' s services in
that connection. F'aithfully and fairly for all our service he issued food and all other supplies.
In his equity and even justice all had full faith. Personally he made all issues, kept all
accounts, and reported to me weekly or otherwise as ordered. His safe and careful estimates
of unknown weights of bread and meat were of incalculable benefit in the spring. The scores
of pounds which these estimated supplies overran were sure testimony as to what I firmly
believe, that in all that terrible winter no ounce of unauthorized food passed his lips. In less
loyal and more unscrupulous hands these gains would never have been reported. That a
starving man for months could handle daily such amounts of food and not take for himself
speaks volumes for his moral courage.

On May 12 Dr. Pavy urged that I give him, for his wife's satisfaction, a certificate of gen-
eral good standing. I declined to do so; but later, after persistent urging, and to insure con-
tinued medical attendance for the dying men, I gave him as full a certificate as I could con-
scientiously, confining it most rigidly to strictly professional duties. Later, on May 21, I
learned from Sergeant Israel that, under stress from Dr. Pavy, he had copied for him and
signed a certificate of good behavior. I append both the certificates, and my letter on learn-
ing of this remarkable action (see Appendices Nos. 115, 116, 117). These men were slowly
dying, and looked for medical assistance and relief to the man who penned this certificate.

Lieutenant Kislingbury, on learning Dr. Pavy's request, insisted on a complimentary
certificate in writing, which I refused, saying he had no right to demand such. An acrimo-
nious discussion followed, in which I used improper and ungentlemanly language towards him,
for which I afterwards openly and publicly apologized, both to him and the party. I look
back on that personal episode in the three years' experience as the only one for which I have
an abiding regret. Though my statements were strictly accurate, I should have remembered
Lieutenant Kislingbury' s weak mental state and enfeebled physical condition. I can only
plead in extenuation great physical pain, and resultant mental condition froin my severe ill-
ness of a few days previous. Lieutenant Kislingbury and I were fully reconciled prior to his
death.

'I 4

ill

.» ■:'.

' I'

! ■

11 ' '■ f

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXt>EDlTION.

On the 13th, during the night, abont five ounces of Sergeant Elisou's bacon was taken by
some unknown person, and a couple of days previously an ounce of pemmican was stolen from
the hunter's lunch. The bacon entrusted to me had been placed for safe-keeping between the
sleeping-bags next to Sergeant Israel's head. I have full faith that it was not touched by Israel.

On the 17th the last alcohol, except a small quantity for medical purposes, was issued, x
also ordered Steward Biederbick to issue the lard remaining for medical purposes, which gave
each one about three ounces. Dr. Pavy objected, however, both to the issue and division.

On the morning of the i8th I heard a raven, and called Long, who killed him.

The i8th, one of the verj- weak men was brutally reviled by one of the party, and on
the 23d a similar case occurred. All the parties concerned are dead, and this mention of a
lack of kindly feeling is made, as it was the only evidence of it in all our months of suffering
and privations. It is touched on, not to bring reproach to the guilty men, but to show how
very free the party was from unkindly and inhuman feeling, despite continued and agonizing
suffering, which had been endured for months.

May 19, Frederick, going in early morning for ice, discovered a bear near the house. He"
and Long immediately started after him, but returned after six hours' chase, entirely ex-
hausted. Their weakened condition was such that the bear easily out-traveled them, and they
were unable to get a shot at him.

Private Ellis died during the bear hunt and was buried on the 20th, services being read
as usual. His death was very depressing, as it was the first one from starvation in nearly six
weeks. On the 20th, to give Sergeant Israel a last chance for life, and on the doctor's urgent
recommendation four ounces of raven were issued, our only meat.

On the 2 1st a purple saxifrage {Saxifraga oppositifoUd) was seen in blossom in a very shel-
tered place. We commenced that day mixing saxifrage with our shrimps and sea-weed, with
doubtful advantage, as in general that plant was but faintly tinged with green.

r*'.! the 20th I was obliged to commence feeding Sergeant Ralston, who slept with me, and
on the 22d he became unconscious in my arms and died early the following morning. He
had proved himself an excellent observer and an efficient man in the field.

The doctor expressed the opinion that we would all die in a few days unless we succeeded
in moving from the hut, where melting snow saturated our clothing and kept us continually
cold and wretched. The strength of the party was consequently devoted, on the 22d, to pitching
the wall-tent, about three hundred yards [274""] southeast of the winter hut, on a level, gravelly
spot, where we could have the benefit of the ever-present sun's rays. The tent was able to
hold but a portion of the party, and the strongest were directed to sleep for a time in the hut; but
the whole party messed together at the tent. The weakest moved to the tent the afternoon of
the 23d. Private VVhisler managed to walk to the tent alone but became unconscious that
evening. Sergeant Israel walked half-way, and was hauled the rest of the distance. I suc-
ceeded in reaching the tent with great difficulty, carrying my Afghan sleeping-bag.

The barometer was broken removing it to the hill, a great misfortune, as I had hoped to
continue obser\'ations until the last man died. The rapidly diminishing strength of the party
at that time compelled the discontinuance of certain observations, which had been made reg-
ularly till May, but other observations were kept up.

Private Long saw a skua (robber gull) on the 23d, and Brainard got only ten pounds of
shrimps — less than our daily ration.

Private Whisler died on the 24th, and burial services were read over him. A man of
strong physique, he had always worked hard to advance the objects of the expedition.

On the 24th it was surmised that Schneider was not dividing our shrimp stew fairly, by
giving out much soup and retaining a disproportionate quantity of solid shrimps in his own
portion. Observations on the 25th confirming this suspicion, Private Frederick was ordered
to relieve Schneider as cook. That day, to supplement our wretched diet of shrimps, sea-

THE LADY FUANKLIX 1»AY EXPEDITION.

weed, and saxifrage, we commenced stewing the seal-skin tliongs, of which we arranged to
have one stew daily.

Sergeant Israel weakened gradnally, and on the 26th I was obliged to feed him. On the
27th he died very easily. .\ yonng man of some fortune, a graduate of Michigan Tnivensity,
a promising astronomer, with a bright future before him, his death was parti ciilarly sad. He
had been a most valuable man to the expedition in its scientific work, and had earnestly
desired field service despite his slender and weak physique. He endeared him.self to the entire
expedition by his kindness, consideration, and unvarying equanimity.

On the 26th and 27th Long killed four dovekies, which fell in the water beyond reach.

On the 27th, in consequence of their extraordinary services in our behalf, and to encourage
the party, Frederick and Long were assigned to the Signal Service, vice Ralston and Israel
lately died. This action, made subject to confirmation, was not approved by the Secretary of
War, on the ground, I understand, that, even under such extraordinary circumstances, I ex-
ceeded my authority. It would .seem to me that the danger of a precedent in authorizing
such action would be less dangerous to the service than to put forth the idea that even in
extraordinary circumstances an officer camiot safely step out of the well-beaten path of routine.

On the 27th Dr. Pavy took all the remaining iron from the medicine chest during my
temporary absence. He was also accused by Steward Biederbick, Sergeant Elison, and others
of previously taking, medicinally, nearly all of our Dover's powders. He had lately failed to
issue iron to the party as promi.sed, and I immediately ordered him to return it to the chest.

On the 28th Private Long saw two dovekies and secured one. I divided it between him
and Sergeant Brainard, who were feeding the party at that time.

A violent gale occurred on the 29th and 30th, and we were without food or drink for
twenty-eight hours, and on the 31st another violent gale kept everybody in the bags for
twenty-four hours.

Sergeant Brainard, by systematic and indefatigable exertions, obtained during May no less
than four hundred and seventy-five pounds of shrimps and eighty-one pounds of sea-weed.

The mean temperature for the month was +iy.o°[ — 8.3°C.], with a maximum of
-1-36.0° [-J-2.2°C.] on the 21st, and a minimum of — 4.0° [ — 2o.o°C.] on the nth.

The mean pressure (ist to 23d, inclusive) was 30. 123 [765. 1 1 """].

JUNE, 1884.

Lieutenant KisHngbury died on the ist, and the usual burial service was read over his re-
mains. He was an earnest, hard-working officer, and had attained an excellent reputation, partic-
ularly for detached service in the field in connection with Indian scouts. The qualities which
insured success there, perhaps caused him to chafe under restraint incident to service where
his work and actions were strictly limited. He was a successful hunter, a man of very fine
physique, and never spared himself any personal exertion which would add to the personal
comfort or pleasure of others. He worked hard and manfully during our retreat and sub-
sequent life at Cape Sabine.

On the ist Long killed a dovekie, which I ordered divided between him and Brainard.
Similar disposition was made of one on the 2d, except that the intestines were put in the shrimp
stew for the general party.

Corporal Salor became slightly delirious on the 2d and died on June 3. He was always
a patient, reliable, and hard-working soldier, and, as a member of the supporting party to
Lieutenant Lockwood in i88c, he contributed in no small degree to our geographical success.

Dr. Pavy was very weak on the 3d, and evidently slightly delirious. He appeared in
better mental condition on the 4th, and that .afternoon, while I was outside the tent, took from
the medicine chest the bottle of ergot and probably drank all of its contents, some three
ounces. Steward Biederbick examined the chest after Dr. Pavy left it, but did not notice the

THE LAOY FRANKLIN BAY KXPEniTIOK.

absence of the ergot bottle, as it was a medicine which was not used. The doctor died at 6 p, m.
of the 6th, his death possibly hastened by his takinjj erjjot, probably by mistake.

Dr. Pavy was a man of fine education, jwlished manners, and fjreat Arctic ambition. To
his credit I have to record the restless energy which marked his physical exertions in l)ehalf
of the party dnring the last month of his life at Cape Sabine. His medical skill, in my
opinion, was great, and contributed much to the general welfare of the party the last winter.
It must lie added that his changeable moods and previous Hohemian life luifitted him for duty
when his actions were subjected to restriction or limitation from others.

On the 4th Long succeeded in obtaining one dovekie out of .seven killed. I ordered the
dovekie to be issued to the hunters, who could barely walk. Hciider begged, with tears, for his
twelfth, which I finally gave him, though some of the ])arty urg»"d strongly that he should not
have it. There was some feeling over this point after Mender's allowance was given him. I
iufonned Hendcr that the hunters must be kept on their feet, and unless they were kept in
such condition as to obtain shrimps and game the party must inevitably perish. I al.so
informed Sergeant Long that in case he feared trouble over the division of any bird brought
in he had best retain and eat his share of the game, as his strength must be maintained.

Private Hender became weaker on the 5th and died on the 6th. He was an ingenious,
hard-working man, who had done good .servicf.' in various ways during the two years at Conger,
and in improvising articles at Cape Sabine.

On the 4th Henry was detected taking shrimps, and Schneider and Bender were also
suspected.

June 5th I had a conversation with Pt.'vate Henry, in which he admitted his many
offenses and promised to deal fairly in future. h\ default of moral feeling I appealed to his
sense, pointing out the certainty that the few remaining could survive only by unity and fair
dealing, and that otherwise everybody would perish ; and I cautioned him of his coming to
grief if he did not act properly. I felt doubtful of his sincerity, however, and consequently
gave written orders (Appendix No. 122) to watch him, and, if found stealing, shoot him. On
the 6th Frederick, while cooking, detected Henry taking shrimps from the general mess-pot
when his back was turned, which Frederick reported to me. Not being armed at that time
he could not comply with my orders. Later Henry made two trips to our winter hut, and,
after the second, passed me, and on being questi. .,^d admitted that he had in a bundle on his
shoulder some seal-skin thongs, and had elsewhere concealed seal-skin. An order (.\ppendix
No. 118) was issued, directing his execution. Owing to Henry's strength, which was greater
than that of any other two men, the necessity of caution to prevent general disaster was
obvious, and arrangements were made accordingly. Shots were heard about 2 o'clock, and
later the order was read to the general party. Every one, without exception, acknowledged
that his fate was merited. Considerable quantities of seal-skin were found in his clothes-bag,
and also a pair of my seal-skin boots, loaned to the hunter and stolen from him a few
nights before, though Long thought they had blown away. On Henry's person was also found
a silver chronograph, which had been packed and left by me at Conger and stolen by him
on leaving the station.

Private Long brought in a dovekie on the 6th, which was divided between the hunters
and the cook, although some remarks were made concerning it.

On the 6th we commenced eating a great deal of tripe de rochc (a large black lichen),
which the doctor had said was injurious ; and on the 7th Biederbick, Council, Frederick, and
I commenced collecting, systematically, reindeer moss, tripe de roc/ie, and saxifrage, while
Long hunted and Brainard caught shrimps. These lichens proved very palatable and nutri-
tious, and were regularly gathered thereafter. Gardiner, Schneider, and Elison were then
hejpless. I could only drag myself fifty yards (46") from the tent to rocks where I could hunt
these lichens. Biederbick and Council could go farther, though very weak and feeble.

The lady franklin hay bxemiditiox.

•t

On the morning of- the 7th all the shrimps on hand were eaten for breakfast, the first
time we were withont a snpply of them, and we commenced that eveninjj on seal-skin stews,
from boot-soles.

On the 8th a bnnch of pnrple saxifrage was found in full bloom, the first specimen since
May 21. I<ou>>; was sick on the gth — his thirty-secoml birthday — and coidd not hunt. A
spoonful of our last gill of brandy was given him for his birthday.

.On the loth a dovekie was brought in, which went to the hunters, although there were
some unpleasant remarks about it. I urged that the end should be met decently.

About that time in Sergeant Gardiner's ca.se inflammation of the bowels set in, owing to
excessive constipation, and on the 12th he died. A young man of excellent habits and dispo-
sition, with ambition and application, he had been a valuable man to the expedition and had
endeared him.self to his comrades. His strong wil', and iuten.se affectionate desire to return to
his wife and mother, doubtless did much to prolong his life.

On the 1 2th of June a distre.ss-sigual was erected by Sergeant Krainard on the adjacent
cliffs, it being, as my memory then .served me, the average date of the whalers reaching North
water. The 13th Steward Biederbick was formally discharged, for expiration of term of service,
and re-enlisted on the 14th. The gth he had promi.sed to fulfil his contract to the (iovernment.

On the 13th my .seal-skin jumper, reserved for shrimp-bait, was divided between the party
and eaten roasted; and the oil-tanned covering on my sleeping-bag was cut off and divided
between the party on that and the following day.

On the 15th the hunters, who had been eating such lichens as they could gather while
out, owing to comments, decided to put in the general mess all they collected. The .same day
Private Schneider piteously begged for opium pills to end his life; but Steward Hiederbick
concealed them, to avert any possible con.sequenccs.

On the i6th Sergeant Brainard found minimum thermometer No. 590, which had been
blown away by the gale of December 2. The day following Sergeant Brainard collected his
last shrimps, his nets being carried away by the ice breaking up. The amount collected in
June had only been forty-four pounds.

On the i8th Schneider, who had gradually become weaker and been helpless for some-
time, died. He had done good .service at Conger not only as a clerk but also in raising and
breaking the puppies, withont which our geographical work would have been limited.

It is not in the province of this report to dwell on the remarkable energy and daring dis-
played by Captain Schley and Lieutenant Emory in pushing their ve.s.sel through the dangers
of Melville Bay, and thus snatching the remnant of the party from death. When found, we
had experienced the violence of a heavy gale for two and a half days, and for one and a half
had been without food or water, save an ounce or so of half-boiled or roasted oil-tanned seal-
skin, which each man had by him. Our tent had blown down and the heavy canvas piimed
Sergeants Brainard, Long, and myself to the ground. Connell was but half-conscious, and a
day later would have seen the death of several. Steward Biederbick' s first action was in
keeping with his previous conduct, showing his thoughtfulness and unselfishness. The two
table-spoonfuls of rum which remained in his charge were poured out immediately. One was
given to Coptiell, and the last offered me, but, on my refusal, went with its fellow.

It seem'-'d then to me impossible that the relief ship should venture on that coast in such
a gale, whici. was yet so violent that although under the lee of and protected by the high cliffs
we were transported to the .ships with difficulty. It evidenced most strongly Captain Schley's
appreciation of the exigency of the situation. From the officers of the relief .squadron we
received the most careful and considerate kindnesses, not such as come in the mere line of their
official duty, but such as spring from men's hearts when moved by pity and compassion.

In mentioning Captain Schley, Lieutenant Emory, and Chief Engineer Melville in this
respect, I must add that none were second in good offices to those named. The watchful skill
and unceasing attentions of Doctors Green and Ames insured the building up of the faint

ri i

@i THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

spark of vitality which remained in us. Less firnincssand attention might easily have proved
fatal.

Sergeant Elison died July 8, 18S4, at Godhavn, consequent on secondary amputation,
which was absolutely necessary, though with a faint chance of success. For over seven and a
half months his indomitable will-power and naturally fine physique had kept this man alive,
although he lost both hands and both feet by natural amputation. That during this time he
was fed, nursed, and cared for by starving men, his comrades, speaks for itself as to the
humanity of the Lady Franklin Bay E.xpedition. Sergeant Elison was an honest, faithful
man, who never spared himself pain or trouble when he could advance the interests of the
expedition. He was equally serviceable in the workshop, in the field, as botanist and natural
history collector, or as carpenter or sledgeman.

As to our return home and subsequent receptions, the public press have heralded those.
The grateful words of thanks from the President, in behalf of himself and the nation, the elo-
quent message at St. John's from the honorable the Secretary of the Navy, together with public
receptions and invitations which have come to me, are most highly valued, not personally,
but for the recognition, through their chief, of the living and the dead of the Lady Franklin
Bay Expedition, and of that which their hands wrought, their labors accomplished.

I have felt it necessary in the preparation of this report to enter more fully into details
connected with the retreat and our subsequent experiences at Cape Sabine than perhaps seems
called for in a general report. I have touched on many disagreeable points, and ignored none
of importance, solely because if they were neglected it might seem as though the many exag-
gerated and erroneous statements, put forth in general terms as to the misconduct of certain
members of the expeditiv^n, 'vere correct and justified.

The attached journals of Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brainard speak for them-
selves (Appendices Nos. 123 and 124).

Lieutenant Lockwood was a man of unvarying truthfulness, good judgment, and Christian
charity. His journal was written in shorthand, in a method but little known, and its complete
translation (from leaving Conger to his death), without omission, is found herewith. Though
Lieutenant Lockwood' s mental powers were necessarily affected for several months prior to
his death by his extremely enfeebled physical condition, yet such weakness never revealed
itself in the shape of severe and unkind comments, even in matters disagreeably affecting
himself The tone of this journal indicates the character of the officer who penned it.

- Sergeant Brainard's journal covers the period from our besetment in the pack until our
rescue. Its contents, in a like manner, speak the man. His journal is used because he is
the only one of the survivors who kept a regular diary. Thus the story is told by a dead and
by a living witness.

In regard to the general conduct of the expedition during the year after leaving Conger,
any impartial critic must speak of it in terms of commendation. Courage, patience, and
fortitude characterized all, both living and dead. If, in a few cases, impatient spirits gave
expression to indiscreet and insubordinate utterances, yet such feelings vented themselves in
words, without demoralizing the party or weakening the bonds of discipline which united us
as a whole. To .say we were always a command, never a mob, epitomizes the record.

As to cases where men were guilty of appropriation of the food of others to themselves,
I bear in mind, now as then, the great temptation which slowly starving men must necessarily
experience when food is within their reach. The spirit of conciliation and forbearance which
I .so long exercised, while such a policy .seemed possible without fatal results, was followed by
the execution of Private Henrv, which the exigency of the case demanded. I attach herewith,
as appropriate appendices, the orders in the case, as well as the previous report to the honorable
the Secretary of War, and his reply, approving of my course in the matter. (See Appendices
Nos. 118, 122, 119, 120.) It was only after repeated thefts that this terrible retribution felt
upon Henry. The execution was regarded by me sim ply in the light of a self-defensi for the

. ' y M W***'-'^ ''

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY KXPEDITiON.

re nnant of my party and myself. While deeminp^ the ptinishment merited, I appreciated fully
the tremendous temptation it was to a man like Henry (who was, as lie acknowledjjjed himself,
devoid of mouJ principles) to take that which was liefore him, and which would, in a measure,
satisfy him physiraily.

As to other matters which have engajjed an undue share of public attention, while hav-
ing no official knowledge of the facts in the case, yet the respoiisil)ility of i,!' action in con-
nection with such an expedition rightfully and properly rests upon the commanding officer.
In assuming the entire responsibility in that connection, I 'now of no law, either human or
divine, which was broken at Cape Sabine, and so do not feel called on as an officer or man to
dwell longer on such a painful topic.

In Appendix No. 121 will be found the dates and causes of death of the various members
of the expedition.

I should be unjust to the dead did I not call attention to their arduous labors, heroic
endurance, and unriiiiching determination which advanced the national ensign to an unpar-
alleled latitude, carried out the programme of international scientific observations, increased
perhaos in an unequaled degree in this century our knowledge of the physical characteristics
and configurations of polar lands, and who, !nore than all, in perhaps the most successful
Arctic boat journey of the age, brought safely, at the price of great bodily suffering and dimin-
ished chances of life, through a dense polar pack, their records to a point whence they would
eventually reach the world. They died for that end, and should not be forgotten.

It would be equally unjust not to mention the services of the living. The lack of pre-
cedent forbade the War Department from confirming appointments and promotions made by
me in the exigencies of my position. The necessity of maintaining the dignity of the service
likewise interfered to their detriment when public interest was in a way of rewarding them
with moderate fortunes.

Two of these men. Hospital Steward Henry Biederbicl' and Sergeant J. R. Frederick, have
been discharged from the service, on surgeons certificate ( ♦ disability, and, in a maimed con-
dition, are adventuring the gain of their livelihood. The three remaining are now members of
the Signal Service, on application of the Chief Signal Officer. As a reward in some way com-
mensurate with the successful work done by them, and the extraordinary suffering entailed
through no fault of their own, I respectfully recommend that their Arctic services ina> be
considered as rendering all these men eligible for appointment for the retired-list of the Army,
as of the grades of signal-sergeants and hospital-steward.

I am conscious of the many defects in this report, which could have been remedied if
longer time and better health had been mine. It has been rare that Arctic commanders, re-
turning in health, have been able to make a formal report of their experiences in a shorter
time than that occupied in the prosecution of the work itself The great public interest shown
in the fortunes of the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition seems to me a valid reason why no
longer delay should be had in this matter.

Until authority can be obtained from Congress for the publicatlc/U of this report, with its
complete appv ndices, I shall, with your permission, occupy my time in perfecting and arrang-
ing the scientific observations, and in deducing such results as may be possible in that limited
period.* .

I attach hereto, as convenient for use and reference, a list showing the number of ap-
pendices and the title of the subject-matier on which they dwell.
Very respectfully, your obedient .servant,

A. W. GREELY,
• First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and .Assistant,

Commanding Lady Franklin Hay Jixpedition.

* This work has been carried out and the observations have been os fully discussed as means and opimrtunity have per-
mitted.

!PJI

LIST OF APPENDICES FILED WITH THE FOREGOING REPORT.

1. V/ar Dcpariment order assigt\ing Lieutenant Greely to

command.

2. War Department order organizing the expedition.

3. Instructions from the Signal Office regarding tlie expe-

dition.

4. List of commissary subsistence stores, with remarks

thereon.

5. Records left at and taken from Southeast Cary Island,

August, 1881.

6. Lieutenant Kislingbury's report of (rip to Life Boat Cove.

7. Records taken from and left at Washington Irving Island,

August, 1 88 1.

8. Records obtained at Discovery Harlror, August, 1881.

9. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on Water-course Bay,

August, 1 881.

10. Lieutenant Kislingbury's request to be relieved, with
Lieutenant Greely's statement.

SI. Orders No. 5, relieving Lieutenant Kislingbury and or-
dering him to report to ihe Chief Signal Officer.

12. Orders No. 6 amending orders No. 5.

13. Lieutenant Kislingbury's recjuest for modification of or-

ders No. 6.

14. Orders No. 8 modifying orders No. 6.

15. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on exploration of St. Pal-

rick Valley.

16. Sergeant iirainard's report establishing depot B nearCjpe

Becchey.

17. Sergeant Jewell's meteorological rei)ort in connection with

trip establishing deyml B.

18. Sergeant Gardiner's report of trip to Cape Murchison.

19. Sergeant Linn's report on moving depc . A to Cape Mur-

chison.

20. Orders to Dr.'Pavy for overlanil journey to Lincoln Bay.

21. Report of Dr. Pavy on trip to Lincoln Bay.

22. Report of Lieut. Lockwood on journey to the Bellows.

23. Crd'rs to Dr. Pavy on exploring Archer Fi' ;d

24. Report of Dr. Pavy on attempted trip down Archer Fiord.

25. ReiKirt of Lieutenant Lockwood on sledge journey to

depot B near Cape Bcechey.

26. Rcix)rt of Sergei:nt Rice on sledge journey to depot B

near Cape Beechey.

27. Orders lo Dr. Pavy to proceed to Cape Joseph Henry.

28. Reiwrt of Dr. Pavy on trip towards Cape Joseph Henry.

29. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on .St. Patrick Valley.

30. .Sergeant Rice's report on camp e(|Hipage.

31. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders to attempt crossing of

Robeson Channel.

32. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on attempted crossing of

Robeson Channel.

33. Dr. Pavy's orders for journey to Wrangel Bay.

3''. Dr. Pavy's report on journey to Wrangel Bay.

35. Dr. Pavy's supplementary report under Appendices 27

and 33.

36. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders for preliminary journey to

Cape Beechey.

37. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on journey ordered in Ap-

pendix No. 36.

38. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders for journey to Thank God

Harbor.

39. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on journey ordered in Ap-

pendix No. 38.

40. English records obtained at Thank God Harbor.

41. Dr. I'pvy's orders to carry provisioi s to Greenland coast.

42. Dr. Pavy's report on journey ordered in Appendix No.

41.

43. Sergeant Iirainard's orders to move boat to Uieenland

coast.

44. Sergeant Brt'inard's report on trip ordered in Appendix

No. 43.

45. Sergeant Jewell'i report on trip to Lincoln Bay while

supporting Dr. Pavy.

46. Dr. Pavy's orders for journey northward over Polar ocean.

47. Dr. Pavy's report on journey ordered in Appendix 46.

48. Sergeant Rice's report on detached trip from Lincoln Bay

to Fort Conger and return.

49. Private I.o.ig's rejiort on trip into Archer Fiord.

50. Sergeant Israel's report on trip into the Bellows.

51. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders to explore north coast of

Greenland.

52. Supplementary instructions for exploration of north coast

of Greenland.

53. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on exploration of north

coast of Greenland.

54. Report of Private Biederbick's trip into Black Rock Vale.

55. Sergeant Linn's report of trip into Black Rock Vale.

56. Lieutenant Lockwood's rejxjrt of launch trip up Archer

Fiord.

57. Lieutenant Lockwood's report of launch trip up Chand-

ler Fiord.

58. Dr. Pavy's orders to proceed lo Carl Ritter Bay.

59. Sergeant Klison's report of trip to Carl Ritter Bay.

60. Sergeant Brainard's report of trip to Carl Ritter Bay.

61. Orders establishing day of "Thanksgiving."

62. Dr. Pavy's letter of March 8, 1883.

63. Lieutenant Greely's answer to Dr. Pavy's letter of March

8, 1 88 J.

64. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders for preliminary journey

northward, l88j.

65. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on journey ordered in Ap-

pc.idix No. 64.

OB •

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

M U !

66. Sergeant Jewell's report to Lieutenant Lockwood relative

to journey ordered in Appendix No. 64.

67. Orders to Lieutenant I.ockwood for exploration of Green-

land, 1883.

68. Sergeant Rice's orders for journey to Thank God Harbor.

69. Dr. Pavy's orders for journey, as surgeon, to Thank God

Harbor.

70. Lieut. Lockwood's report on trip to North Greenland.

71. Sergeant Jewell's reiwrt on tidal observations made on

trip to North Greenland.

72. Sergeant Rice's reiwrt on trip to Thank God Harbor.

73. Dr. Pavy's medical rejxjrt on trip to Thank God Harbor.

74. Orders for Sergeant Jewell for tidal observations at Cape

Beechey.

75. Report of Sergeant Jewell on tidal observations at Cape

Beechey.

76. Orders for Sergeant Ciardiner for tidal observations at

Cape Baird.

77. Orders for Sergeant Israel for astronomical observations

at Cape Baird.

78. Report of Sergeant Israel on observations ordered in Ap-

pendix No. 77,

79. Re|X)rt of Se.gcant (Gardiner on tidal and ice observations

at Cape Baird.

80. Report of Sergeant Jewell on paleocrystic ice.

81. Orders to Sergeant Jewell for tidal observations at Cape

Heechey.

82. Report of Sergeant Jewell on tidal observations at Cape

Heechey.

83. Sergeant lirainard's leport on journey to Cape Cracroft.

84. Sergeant (Gardiner's report on journey to Cape Cracroft.

85. Lieutenant Lockwood's orders to cross Grinnell Land.

86. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on the crossing of Grinnell

Land.

87. Orders to Dr. Pavy relative to natural history data.

88. Orders to Dr. Pavy relative to botanical specimens.

89. Orders to Lieutenant Lockwood to relieve Dr. Pavy as

naturalist.

90. Lieutenant Lockwood's report on natural history si)eci-

mens received from Dr. Pavy.

91. Lieutenant Lockwood's letter and report on natural his-

tory specimens, June 30, 1883.

92. Sergeant llrainard'.s reirart on. Lieutenant Lockwood's

trip towards the United States mountain range.

93. Orders to Lieutenant Lockwood to receive medical stores

from Dr. Pavy.

94. Letter of Dr. Pavy asking 'he detail of St :ward Bieder-

bick.

95. Reply of Lieutenant Greely to Dr. Pavy'j request for de-

tail of Steward Biederbick.

96. Letter of Dr. Pavy's dated July 18, 1883.

97. Answer to letter referred to in Appendix No. 96.

98. Dr. Pavy's refusal to turn over his diary.

99. Letter transmitting charges to Dr. Pavy.
loo. Letter limiting Dr. Pavy's bounds while in arrest,
loi. Order for the abamlonment of station at Fort Conger.

102. List of subsistence stores abandoned.

103. Medical re])orts.

104. Record left at Cape Raird.

105. Records left in abandoned Imats.

106. Records found on Brevoort Island (deposited by Lieu-

tenant Garlington and Beebe).

107. Plan of winter (|uarlers, Camp Clay.

108. Sergeant Frederick's report of November journey to Cape

Isabella.

109. Lieutenant Kislingbury's letter, February 19, 1884.
no. Private Long's journey into Hayes Sound.

111. Sergeant Frederick's report of journey to Baird Inlet,

April, 1884.

112. Lieutenant Kislingbury's letter, April 22, 1884.

113. Letter of Dr. Pavy, April 25, 1884.

114. Letter of Dr. Pavy, April 27, 1884.

irS. Lieutenant Greely's cfrtlficate to Dr. Pavy.

116. General certificate to Dr. Pavy.

117. Letter of Lieutenant Greely on Dr. Pavy.
n8. Order for Private Henry's execution.

119. Report of Private Henry's execution.

120. Letter of Secretary of War approving Lieutenant Greely's

course regarding execution of Private Henry.

121. List of deaths.

122. Order relative to Private Henry dated June 5, l8.'i4.

123. Lieutenant Lockwood's journal from August 3, 1883.

124. Sergeant Brainard's journal from besetment.

125. Portion of diary of Private Roderick R.Schneider, found

on bank of Mississippi River in Missouri, and corrc-
f ix)ndence relating thereto with Mr. J. A. Ockerson.

126. Description of drift-wood.

127. List of photographs and description of Eskimo relics in

photographs.

1 28. List of maps.

129. N.itural history (Mamn^alia).

130. Botany.

131. Ornithology. -^

132. Medusie.

133. Kchinodermata, Vermes, Crustacea, and Pteropod Mol-

lusca.

134. MoUusca.

135. /Vstronomical observations.

136. Hydrography.

137. Sound experiments.

138. Meteorology.
1 381;. Meteors.

1 39. Magnetical reductions by U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey.
l39(/.Magnetical reductions l88l-'82.

140. Tidal observations.

141. Pendulum observations.

APPENDICES.

Appendix No. i. — IVar Department order assigning Lieutenant Greely to command.

Special Orders
No. 57.

Headquarters of the Army, Adjutant-General's Office,

Washington, March ii, i88i.

[Extract.]

2. By direction of the President, First Lieut. A. W. Greely, Fifth Cavalry, acting signal officer, is hereby
assigned to the command of the expeditionary force now organizing under the provisions of the acts of
Congress approved May i, 1880, and March 3, 1881, to establish a station north of the eighty-first degree of
north latitude, at or near Lady Franklin Bay, for the purpose of scientific observation, &c., as set forth in
said acts.

During his absence on this duty. Lieutenant Greely will retain station at Washington, District of Columbia.

By command of General Sherman.

Official:

R. C. Drum,

Adjutant- General.

H. C. CORBIN,

Assistant Adjutant-General.

Appendix No. 2. — War Department order organising the expedition.

General Orders » Headquarters of the Army, Adjutant-General's Office,

No. 35. S Washington, April \2, \^^\.

The following order, received from the War Department, is published for the information of the Army:
In order to carry into execution the act approved May i, 1880, and so much of the act approved March
3, 1881, entitled "An act making appropriations for sundry civil expenses of the Government for the fiscal
year ending June 30, 1882, and for other purposes," as provides for "observation and exploration in the
Arctic seas, for continuing the work of scientific observation and exploration on or near the shores ^^ Lady
Franklin Bay, and for transportation of men and supplies to said location and return, twenty-five thousand
dollars," it is ordered :

I. First Lieut. A. W. Greely, Fifth United States Cavalry, acting signal officer, having volunteered for
the expedition, shall take command of the expeditionary force, now organizing under said act, to establish a
station north of the eighty-first degree of north latitude, at or near Lady Franklin Bay, for the purpose of
scientific observation.

n. Lieutenant Greely shall have authority to contract for and purchase within the limits of the appro-
priation the supplies and transportation deemed needful for the expedition ; and the appropriation for this
purpose, made by the act approved March 3, 1881, shall be drawn from the Treasury and disbursed, upon
proper vouchers, by the regular disbursing officer of the Signal Service, under the direction of the Chief
Signal Officer.

H. Mis. 393 7 W

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

in. The force to be employed in the expedition shall consist of two other officers, who may volunteer
t'vjir services ; twenty-one enlisted men, who may volunteer from the Army or be specially enlisted for the
purpose ; and one contract surgeon. The latter to be contracted with at such time as he may be able to join
the party.

IV. The commander of the expedition is authorized to hire a steam sealer or whaler to transport the
party from St. John's to Lady Franklin Bay, for a fixed sum • '^r month, under a fcrmal contract that shall
release the United States from any and all responsibility or claim for damages, in case the steamer is injured,
lost, or destroyed. The said contract shall include the services and subsistence of the crew of the vessel,
and shall require that the said crew shall consist of one captain, two mates, one steward, two engineers, two
firemen, and seven seamen — not less than fifteen in all. Such steam sealer or whaler shall not be hired
until it has been inspected by an officer to be detailed by the Secretary of the Navy for that purpose, and
found by him fit for the intended service.

V. Ihe expeditionary force shall be assembled at Washington, District of Columbia, not later than May
15, and at St. John's not later than June 15, 1881,

VI. During their absence on this duty Lieutenant Greely and the other officers of the Army accompa-
nying the expedition will ret.iin station at Washington, District of Columbia. The enlisted men who may
volunteer or be specially enlisted for this duty shall receive the pay and commutation allowances (except com-
mutation for quarters and fuel) that accrue to men detached for duty in Washington, District of Columbia.

VII. The several Bureaus of the War Department will furnish, on requisitions approved by the Secretary
of War, the necessary subsistence, clothing, camp and garrison equipage, transportation to St. John's, New-
foundland, and return, medicines, books, instruments, hospital stores, arms, and ammunition. The subsistence
stores to be furnished as above directed are for sale, not for issue, to the officers and men of the expeditionary
force.

By command of General Sherman. ' -

•i R. C. Drum,

Adjutant-General.

Appendix No. 3. — Instructions from the Signal Office regarding the expedition.

Special Orders \
No. 97. )

War Department, Office of the Chief Signal Officer,

Washiiij^ton, D. C, yunc 17, 1881.

I. By direction of the Secretary of War, the following-named officers and enlisted men are assigned to
duty as the expeditionary force to Lady Franklin Bay:

First Lieut. A. W. Greely, Fifth Cavalry, acting signal officer and assistant;

Second Lieut. Frederick F. Kislingbury, Eleventh Infantry, acting signal officer;

Second Lieut. James B. Lockwood, Twenty-third Infantry, acting signal officer;

Sergeant Edward Israel, Signal Corps, U. S. Army;

Sergeant Winfield S. Jewell, Signal Corps, U. S. Army;

Sergeant George W. Rice, Signal Corps, U. S. Army;

Sergeant David C. Ralston, Signal Corps, U. S. Army;

Sergeant Hampden S. Gardiner, Signal Corps, U. S. Army;

Sergeant William H. Cross, General Service, U. S. Army ;

Sergeant David L. Brainard, Company L, Second Cavalry;

•Sergeant David Linn, Company C, Second Cavalry;

Corporal Daniel C. Starr, Company F, Second Cavalry;

t Corporal Paul Grimm, Company H, Eleventh Infantry;

Coqioral Nicholas Salor, Company H, Second Cavalry;

Corporal Joseph Elison, Company E, Tenth Infantry;

Private Charles B. Henry, Company E, Fifth Cavalry ;

Private Maurice Connell, Company B, Third Cavalry;

* Re-enlisted at Fort Conger under a name slightly different in spelling, viz, David Lynn, which accounts for the want of
uniformity in the spelling of his name in this rei«)rt. .

t Deserted and replaced by Private Roderick R. Schneider, Company A, First Artillery.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Private Jacob Bender, Company F, Ninth Infantry;
Priv.'Ue Francis Long, Company F, Ninth Infantry;

• Private WiUiam Whisler, Company F, Ninth Infantry;

• Private Henry Bierderbick, Company CI, Seventeenth Infantry;

• Private Julius Fredericks, Company L, Second Cavalry;
Private James Ryan, Company H, Second Cavalry;
Private William A. FUis, Company C, Second Cavalry.

II. In accordance with special instructions from the Secretary of War, Lieutenant Greely will contract
at Disco, Greenland, with Octave Pavy, M. D,, who will thereafter remain on duty as acting assistant surgeon,
U. S. Army, with the expeditionary force.

III. First Lieut. A. W. Greely, Fifth Cavalry, acting signal officer and assistant to the Chief Signal
Officer, is hereby assigned to the command of the expedition, and is charged with the execution of the
orders and instructions given below. He will forward all reports and observations to the Chief Signal
Officer, who is charged with the control and supervision of the expedition.

W. B. Hazkn,
Brig, and Bvt. Maj. Gen., Chief Signal Officer, U. S. A.

Instructions I War Department, Office of the Chief Signal Officer,

No. 72. J Washington, D. C, yune 17, 1881.

The following general instructions will govern in the establishment and management of the expedition,
organized under Special Orders No. 97, War Department, office of the Chief Signal Officer, Washington,
D. C, dated June 17, 1881.

The permanent station will be established at the most suitable point north of the eighty-first parallel
and contiguous to the coal seam discovered near Lady Franklin Bay by the English expedition of 1875.

After leaving St. John's, Newfoundland, except to obtain Esquimaux hunters, dogs, clothing, &c., at Disco
or Upemivik, only such stops will be made as the condition of the ice necessitates, or as are essential in order
to determine the exact location and condition of the stores cached on the east coast of Grinnell Land by
the English expedition of 1875. During any enforced delays along that coast it would be well to supplement
the English depots by such small caches from the steamer's stores of provisions as would be valuable to a
party retreating southward by boats from Robeson Channel. At each point, where an old depot is examined
or a new one established, three brief notices will be left of the visit — one to be deposited in the cairn built or
found standing, one to be placed on the north side of it, and one to be buried 20 feet [6'"] north (magnetic)
ot the cairn. Notices discovere 1 in cairns will be brought away, replacing them, however, by copies.

The steamer should, on arrival at the permanent station, discharge her cargo with the utmost dispatch,
and be ordered to return to St. John's, Newfoundland, after a careful examination of the seam of coal at that
point has been made by the party to determine whether an ample supply is easily procurable. A report, in
writing, on this subject will be sent by the returning vessel. In case of doubt, an ample supply must be
retained from the steamer's stores.

By the returning steamer will be sent a brief report of proceedings and as full a transcript as possible
of all meteorological and other observations made during the voyage.

After the departure of the vessel, the energies of the party should first be devoted to the erection of the
dwelling-house and observatories, after which a sledge party will be sent, according to the proposal made to
the Navy Department, to the high land near Cape Joseph Henry.

The sledging parties will generally work in the interests of exploration and discovery. The work to be
done by them should be marked by all possible care and fidelity. The outlines of coasts entered on charts
will be such only as have actually been seen by the party. Every favorable opjiortunity will be improved
by the sledging parties to determine accurately the geographical positions of all their camps, and to obtain
the bearing therefrom of all distant clifTs, mountains, islands, &c.

Careful attention will be given to the collection of specimens of the animal, mineral, and vegetable
kingdoms. Such collections will be made as complete as jiossible, will be considered the property of the
Government of the United States, and are to be at its disposal.

• These men reenlisted at Fort Conger under names slightly different in spelling, viz, Wi nam Whistler, Henry Biederbick,
Julius Frederick, which accounts lor the want of uniformity in the spelling of their names in this report.

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100

THE LADY FEANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Special instructions regarding the meteorological, magnetic, tidal, pendulum, and other observations, as
recommended by the Hamburg International Polar Conference, are transmitted herewith.

It is contemplated that the permanent station shall be visited, in 1882 and in 1883, by a steam sealer or
other vessel, by which supplies for and such additions to the present party as are deemed needful will be sent.

In case such vessel is unable to reach Lady Franklin Bay in 1882 she will cache a portion of her supplies
and all of her letters and dispatches at the most northerly point she attains on the east coast of GrinncU Land,
and establish a small depot of supplies at Littleton Island. Notices of the locality of such depots will be
left at one or all of the following places, viz. Cape Hawks, Cape Sabine, and Cape Isabella.

In case no vessel reaches the permanent station in 1882, the vessel sent in 1883 will remain in Smith's
Sound until there is danger of its closing by ice, and, on leaving, will land all her supplies and a party at
Littleton Island, which party will be prepared for a winter's stay, and will be instructed to send sledge parties
up the east side of Grinnell Land to meet this party. If not visited in 1882, Lieutenant Greely will abandon
his station not later than September 1, 1883, and will retreat southward by boat, following closely the east
coast of Grinnell Land until the relieving vessel is met or Littleton Island is reached.

A special copy of all reports will be made each day, which will be sent home each year by the returning
•vessel.

The full narrative of the several branches will be prepared with accuracy, leaving the least possible
amount of work afterwards, to prepare them for publication.

The greatest caution will be taken at the station against fire, and daily inspections made of every spot
where fire can communicate.

In case of any fatal accident or permanent disability happening to Lieutenant Greely the command will
devolve on the officer next in seniority, who will be governed by these instructions.

W. B. Hazen,
Brig, and Bvt. Maj. Gen., Chief Signal Officer, U. S. A.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE COMMANDING OFFICERS OF THE INTERNATIONAL POLAR STATIONS

OCCUPIED BY THE SIGNAL SERVICE.

I. General.

1. Regular meteorological and other observations will be maintained uninterruptedly, both at sea and at
the permanent station, in accordance with instructions issued to Signal Service observers and those contained
in the accompanying extract from the proceedings of the Hamburg Conference, to which special notes are
appended where needed.

2. The original record of these observations will be kept in the blank books supplied for this purpose,
and a fair copy of the corrected and reduced results will be made upon Signal Service and special forms, as
supplied in bound volumes.

3. At sea a daily record will be kept, by dead-reckoning and astronomical observations, of the latitude
and longitude of the vessel, by which the positions at the times of meteorological observations will be de-
duced, and on arriving at the permanent station the local time and longitude will be immediately deter-
mined, whence the Washington and Gottingen times will be found by applying the correction for longitude.

4. All meteorological and tidal observations will be made at exact hours of Washington civil time (the
longitude of Washington Observatory is 5'' 8" 12.09* west of Greenwich). The regular magnetic obser-
vations will be made at even hours and minutes of Gottingen mean time (Gottingen is o'' 39'" 46.24" east of
Greenwich, or 5'' 47° ^8.33' east of Washington ; whence 12 noon, Washington time, is simultaneous with
5'' 47™ 58.33" p. m. Gottingen time, or 6*" 12'" 1.67* a. m. Washington time is simultaneous with 12 noon
at Gottingen).

If hourly meteorological observations of all these phenomena cannot be taken, then if possible, takebi-
hourly observations at the hours i, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 a. m. and p. m., or at least six observations at 3, 7, and 11
a. m. and p.m. On xio account will the meteorological observation at 7 a. m., Washington time, be omitted.

5. Upon arrival at the permanent station the local time and longitude will be determined at once,
without waiting for the erection of permanent shelters, which will be built for the meteorological, magnetic,
and astronomical instruments according to the plans and material as specified.

,1 {iii

THE LADY FRAiiKLlN BAY EXPPJDITION.

101

The meteorological and astronomical observatories will be located conveniently near to the dwelling of the
observers, but that of the magnetic observatory will be determined by the consideration that these instruments
must be removed from all danger of being affected by the presence of steel or iron, including galvanized and
tinned iron. If needed to keep oflf intruders, a guard or fence should surround the magnetic observatory.

6. The observation of tides will be made as complete as possible in summer by a gauge on the shore,
and in winter through an opening in the ice, according to the instructions furnished by the Superintendent
of the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey. The necessity for observing the tides will suggest that the dwelling-
house should be located as near the sea as is safe and convenient.

7. In addition to the ship's log and the official journal of the party, to be kept by the commanding
officer, and the official record of observations, to be kept by the meteorological, magnetic, tidal, and astro-
nomical observers, each member of the party will be furnished with a diary, in which he will record all such
incidents as specially interest him. This diary will not be open to inspection until delivered to the Chief
Signal Officer for his sole use in compiling the full record of the expedition.

8. Accurate representations, either by the photographic process or sketching, will be made of all phe-
nomena of an unusual character, or of whatever is characteristic of the country.

9. Carefully prepared topographical maps will be made of as much of the surrounding country as is
practicable.

II. Detailed Instructions concerning Observations, Instruments, and Time, by the Interna-
tional Polar Conference, Hamburg, October i to 5, 1879.

[Translated at the office of the Chief Signal Officer, with added notes in italics.]

■ f. OBLIGATORY OBSERVATIONS IN THE DOMAIN OF METEOROLOGY.

No. 17. Temperature of the Air. — The mercurial thermometers should be graduated to two-tenths
degrees centigrade, anil the alcohol thermometers to whole degrees, and both verified at a central meteoro-
logical station to within one-tenth degree centigrade.

The thermometers furnished are j^raduated to Fahrenheit ; they have been compared with the Signal Sen'ice
standard, and are provided with correction cards.

No. 18. The instruments should be placed at an altitude of between 1.5 and 2.0 meters (5 to 6 feet),
and it is recommended that they be exposed in a double shelter of lattice work, according to Wild's method.
The outer shelter to be of wood, the inner of metal. The observations of minimum thermometers can be
made under various conditions.

The shelters furnished consist of an outer wooden louver work and an inner galvanized iron shelter, both
framed so as to be easily set up. The minimum temperatures at various altitudes above ground will be observed,
and under such various conditions as circumstances suggest.

No. 19. The alcohol thermomctcs ought to be compared at the station of observation with the standard
mercurial thermometer at the lowest possible temperatures.*

No. 20. Sea temperatures should be observed, whenever possible, at the surface and at each 10 meters
(about 33 feet) of depth; as instruments, proper for this observation, the following may be specified: Deep-
sea thermometers, as manufactured or invented by Ekninnn; Negretti & Zambra; Miller-Casella; Jansen.

While at sea the temperature of the surface-water will be observed hourly, with the Signal Service water
thermometer, by the ordinary methods, and the temperature at each 33 feet of depth, whenever practicable; for
greater depths, one of the above deep-sea instruments will be used.

No. 21. The point 0° centigrade [32° Fahrenheit], for all the thermometers^ should be determined
from time to time.

The testing of thermometers will be made quarterly, according to the usual Signal Service rules.

No. 2 2. Pressure of the Air. — At each station there must be at least two well-compared mercurial barome-
ters, a reserve barometer and an aneroid.

No. 23. The standard barometer ought to be compared or read once each day.

* For notes on special thermometers, prepared for the Signal Service stations, see Section III of these instructions.

102

THE LADY FUANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

Several mercurial and aneroid barometers are furnished, and all regular ohsen'ations tvilt be made from a
mercurial barometer, selected from among them, which will be compared, once each day, with the standard barom-
eter. All barometers 7i>ill he fully compared with the standard once each month; such comparative readings will
be entered on the regular Signal Service forms for this purpose.

No. 24. Humidity. — The psychrometers (/. e., dry and wet bulb) and hair hygrometer will be used with
Regnault's dew-point apparatus as a check, according to Wild's instructions.

Comparative readings, with these instruments, will be frequently made and carefully presented for future
study.

No. 25. The Wind. — The wind-vane and Robinson's anemometer are to be read from within the house
(see the method of construction of the apparatus of the Swedish station at Spitzbergen), at the same time;
the force of the wind will be estimated according to the Beaufort scale and the wind-direction to 16 compass
points, referred to the true meridian.

The points of the compass on the wind-dial will be adjusted to the true meridian as is ordered for all Signal
Service stations/ self-registering instruments, of the Signal Service pattern, for the velocity and diiection of the
wind to B points will be used. A record of wind-force on the Beaufort scalt (o to 12), and wind-direction to 16
points will also be kept and will be entered in the special column.

No. 26. To aid in deciding the question wliether the Robinson's anemometer, with large or with rmall
cups, should be used for determining the force of storms in the Polar zone, it is recommended that both
such be subjected to preliminary experiments.

Anemometers of the Signal Sen-ice pattern, having small cups and short arms, are the only ones that it is
convenient to furnish. For comparative purposes keep two of these in permanent daify use, exposing them in dif-
ferent but good localities. The extra anemometers should be compared with theie during 24 hours on the first
Monday of each month, and a full record be kept of such comparisons.

No. 27. The Clouds. — The amount of cloudiness and the direction of the movement of all clouds
should be observed to 16 compass points.

/// addition, the kinds of clouds will be noted, and the record kept in the usual Signal Service form.

No. 28. Precipitation. — The commencement and duration of rain, snow, hail, &c., and, when possible,
the amount of j)recipitation is to be observed. As to the amount, however, this is not obligatory in winter.

There xoill be recorded regularly, and if practicable hourly, the amount of precipitation, measured if possible,
otherwise estimated.

No. 29. The Weather. — Storms, thunder-storms, hail, fop, frost, dew, &c., and the optical phenomena
of the atmosphere ought to be recorded.

I M
■I

2. OBLIGATORY OBSERVATIONS IN THE DOMAIN OF TERRESTRIAL MAGNETISM.*

No. 30. Absolute Determinations. — For declination and inclination it is necessary to attain an accuracy
of i.o minute, for horizontal intensity of o.ooi. The proper instruments are, for example, the portable
theodolite of Larr.ont and the ordinary dip-needles.

No. 31. The absolute observations must be executed in close connection and synchronous with the
readings of the variations instruments, in order to be able to reduce the data given by the latter to an abso-
lute normal value, and to determine the zero point of the scales. The determinations must be made so
frequently that the changes in the absolute value of the zero point of the scales of the variations apparatus
can be accurately checked thereby.

No. 32. Obsen'ations of Variations. — These ought to include the three elements and be made by means
of instruments, with small needles, in contrast to the apparatus of Gauss. In order to obtain an uninter-
rupted reciprocal control, two complete sets of variations instruments are desirable, and recommended, in
order to avoid any interruption of the observations, by reason of breakage, derangement, &c.

One set of these instruments is now provided, but a second set may be sent in 1882.

No. 33. The horizontal intensity in one, at least, of these systems should be observed with the uniiilar
apparatus. Because of the magnitude of the perturbations to be observed, the scales of the variations
instruments must have at least a range of 10 degrees, and the arrangements are to be so made that the
greatest possible simultaneity of the readings may be achieved.

* For special instructions in magnetic work, furnished by the Superintendent of the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Scrvey, see
Section IV of these instructions.

liL

THE LADY FKANKLIN HAY EXPEIJITIOX.

103

No. 34. During the entire period of occupancy of the station the variations instruments will be read
hourly, It is desirable that two readings be made; for instance, just before and after the full hour, with an
interval of a few minutes between.

No. 35. Weyprecht presented the following separate note on this point :

" Since it appears to me that in these regions of almost perpetual disturbances, hourly readings, made
at moments not well defined, are insufficient to establish mean values accurately expressing the local pertur-
bations for a given epoch (which data ought to serve as a means of comparison with other localities), and
in consideration of the slight increase of labor which will be caused by taking readings at precise moments,
I cannot agree with the views of the majority of the Conference.

" I state that at least the expedition conducted by myself will take readings hourly of all three varia-
tions instrument at 58'"'" o"'; 59>"i>' o"''; 60™'" o""; ei"'" o""; 62°''n o*"; Gottingen mean time.

" VVevprecht."

Observations will he taken as specified by Weyprecht.

No. 36. As term days, the 1st and 15th day of each month will be observed from midnight to midnight,
Gottingen time. The readings will be taken at intervals of 5 minutes, always on the full minutes, and the
three elements are to be read with all po.;sible rapidity, one after the other, in the following order: 1. Hori-
zontal intensity ; ■?. Decnnation; 3. Vertical intensity.

No. 37. For these term days, the plan of magnetic work should comprehend continuous readings; for
instance, readings every 20 seconds, throughout one whole hour, even though only one magnetic element
be observed. It is the o]iinion of the Conference that the observations should begin so that one of the
hours of observation shall agree with the first hour of the ist of January, and that during the entire period
of magnetic work the hours devoted to this continuous observation should be changed on each successive
semi-monthly term day.

No. 38. The accuracy of the magnetic observations should be such as to give the declination to the
nearest minute, and the horizontal and vertical intensity in units of the fourth decimal place.

No. 39. On the term days, observations of auroras are also to be made continuously. Moreover,
auroras are also to be observed from hour to hour throughout the period of magnetic observations, and
e-pecially in reference to their form and momentary position in altitude and true azimuth. The intensity of
the light is to be estimated on a' scale of i, 2, 3, 4.

No. 40. Isolated auroral phenomena must be made the subject of thorough observation, in connection
with which the various phases are to be noted simultaneously with readings of the magnetic variations
instruments.

Those of the party not engaged at the magnetic instruments will observe and record auroral phenomena.

No. 41. Since the greatest possible simultaneity in the readings is a point of the highest importance,
the determinations of the location and of the time are to be made with instruments having firm foundations
(such as the universal instruments or astronomical theodolite, the vertical circle, zenith telescope, astronomical
transit, &c.); this, however, does not exclude the use of reflecting instruments of a superior class. By all
means, therefore, must efforts be made to determine the geographical position and especially the longitude
of the station as soon as possible after it has been occupied.

The first approximate longitude of the station, as determined by chronometers, will be checked as frequently
(■:." possible by lunar distances, occultations^ &'c,, and the value adopted in the daily work of the station will be
revised as often as necessary, preferably at the end of each quarter. The details of the magnetic observations ivill
be regulated according to the instrtictions published by the Superintendent of the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey.

3. ELECTIVE OBSERVATIONS.

No. 42. The Conference recommends the following observations and investigations most earnestly to
the consideration of all those to whom is intrusted the preparation of instructions for an expedition or who
t lemselves are assigned to such work.

No. 43. Meteorological. — The diminution of temperature with altitude, the temperature of the earth, of
the snow, and of the ice at the different depths should be determined.

The forms of the snoiv-crystah should be n corded by earful drawings; the amount of hoar-frost accumulated
on some well-exposed object should be measured by the use of the scales furnished by the medical department.
Apparatus is ordered to be provided for the preseiralion of air and of air-dust for future analysis.

104

THK LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Il '^:

No. 44. Observations uf insolation (or solar radiation) are to be made, us well as obsi , vations on
spontaneous evaporation, which latter can be made during the winter by weighing cubes of ice, and during
the summer by the evaporometers.

A shallinv, circular vessel of water, whether fluid or frozen, exposed to the open air and sunshine, should
have its loss of weif^ht determined, daily or oftener, by delicate scales.

No, 45. Miignetical. — From time to time absolute simultaneous readings of all three elements of terres-
trial magnetism must be made in order to accurately determine the ratio between the simultaneous changes
of the horizontal and those of vertical intensity.

No. 46. Galvanic Earth Currents. — Observations are desired of earth currents in intimate connection with
magnetic observations and the auroral phenomena.

Telegraph lines of well insulated loire extending a short distance N. and S., and also K. and W., and
furnished with resistance coils and deflection needles are supplied, and every effort should be made to carry out
these observations.

No. 47. Hydrographic Investigations. — Observations of the direction and strength of the ocean currents
and the movements ot the ice.

No. 48. Deep sea soindings and observations upon the physical properties of the sea water; for instance,
determination of the temperature, specific density, gaseous contents, Ike, and these objects should be espe-
cially kept in view in the selection of a vessel for the expedition. Observations on tides, when possible,
should be made with the self-registering apparatus.

IVith regard to tidal obsennitions, the instructions published by the United States Coast and Geodetic Sun>ey
are to be followed. Glass-stoppered bottles are provided for preseiving specimens of sea water to be brought back
for examination.

No. 49. Parallax of the Aurora. — Determination should be made of the altitude of the aurora by means
of measurements, made, for example, with the meteorograph, which must be made by small detached parties of
observation, having also, if possible, one party observing simultaneously the variations of magnetic declination.

Particular attention inill be paid to determining the apparent position in altitude and azimuth of bright
meteors and shooting stars and of definite portions of the aurora borealis and to drawings of the appurtenances
presented by the phenomena as seen by observers situated as far apart (say one-half to five miles) as possible,- in
these drawings the auroral phenomena should appear in their proper positions relatively to the horizon, meridian,
fixed stars, dfc, and to that end each member of the party, without exception, will learn the names and config-
urations of the stars shown upon the map of stars furnished you. A supply of these maps is furnished, sufficient
to allow of using them as base charts upon which to enter the obsen<ed phenomena in special cases. Attention is
called to the points of inquiry suggested in the Annual Report of the Chief Signal Officer, 1876,//. 301-335.

No. 50. Observations of : 1, atmospheric electricity; 2, astronomical and terrestrial refractions; 3, length
of the simple second's pendulum; 4, observations on the formation and growth of floating ice and glaciers.

Attention is called to the observations on the formation of ice made by Nares and other explorers. The
pendulum observations will be made in accordance with special Coast Survey instructions.

No. 51. Observations and collections in the realms of zoology, botany, geology, &c.

The instructions given by ProJ. Spencer F. Baird to the naturalist will be followed by him.

No. 52. There will also be made special observations relating to the whole Polar problem, such as the
flight of birds, presence of drift-wood, and from what direction it came, and other matters as may suggest
themselves from time to time and be found practicable.

III. Special Instructions relative to Care and Use of Special Thermometers.

(See paragraph 19.)

The construction of the minimum standard designed for the Arctic stations, having been intrusted to
the Thermometric Bureau of the Winchester Observatory of Yale College, the astronomer in charge of that
institution furnishes the following special instructions, which will be carefully followed :

"GENERAL REMARKS AND DIRECTIONS CONCERNING THE SIGNAL SERVICE MINIMUM STANDARDS,
NOS. 1 TO 12 INCLUSIVE, CONSTRUCTED BY THE WINCHESTER OBSERVATORY OF YALE COL-
LEGi:, J. AND H. J. GREEN, MECHANICIANS.

"New Haven, May 30, 1881.

"Materials. — The alcohol, carbon disulphide, and ethyl oxide used, are as pure as the chemical processes
will admit. For thermometiical purposes they may be assumed chemically pure. There is no more air

TlIK LADY FRANKLIN BAY KXPEDITION.

105

above the li(iui(l columns than is accidentally admitted in the process of sealing the tubes. In this respect
these standards are different from the ordinary spirit thermometers. It is probalile that the great purity of
the alcohol will render it nearly as valuable for temperatures below— 80" F. as the carbon and ether ther-
mometers.

"Directions for carriage. — It is highly desirable that these thermometers should be kept, as nearly as
possible, in the same condition as on leaving the observatory. For this purpose they have been carefully
packed in a vertical position, and care must be taken to see that they are so repacked, with the bulb down.
Owing to the low boilingiioints of the ether and carbon disulphide they are not (probably) accurate at
temperatures above -|-6o^ F., hut they will remain clear and limpid at temperatures below zero, at which the
alcohol thermometers may (but hardly probably) show viscidity. It is desirable, therefore, that preference be
given to these standards over any other standards for extremely low temperatures, and in establishing the
meteorological observatory at which the greatest cold is expected, special attention should be given to the
ether and carbon disulphide thermometers.

"Suggestions in their use. — Before mounting these thermometers in their stations, they should be care-
fully swung or jarred so that no spirit can be detected (with a magnifying glass) adhering to their upper ends.
They should be inclined (with the bulb end nearest the ground) as far as it is safe, and have the index stand
in its place by its own friction against the side of the tube, so that the drainage may be as perfect as possible. •

"Ail readings should be recorded in millimeters, and it should be remembered that the accompanying
tabular corrections (see the correction cards) are meant to give only approximate temperatures. A careful
comparison of all the thermometers from 1 to 1 2 has been made between o and 90° and Nos. i, 5, and 9 have
been kejit by the observatory for experiments at temperatures below o" F.

" These are probably the best thermometers ever sent into the Arctic regions, and special care should be
taken to insure the safe return of the records and, though less important, the instruments."

'va

IV. Spkciai. Instructions prei'areh itv thk United States Coast and Geodetic Survey for
Observations in Terrestrial Magnetism at I'oint Marrow and Lady Franklin Bay.

These instructions will be applied, when suitable, to thr obsen'attons outered in preceding pages, but they
will also furnish a guide to the minimum number of observations to be taken in case of accidents ociurring to pre-
vent full compliance with the plan proposed by the International Polar Commission.

As soon as the (luarters of the expedition have been fixed upon, a magnetic house will be erected, in
which the regular magnetic observations, as described below, will be made ; other observations will be made
when on boat or sledge trips.

Instruments. — For use at the magnetic observatory, there will be provided a magnetometer, for absolute
and differential declination and for horizontal magnetic intensity, to be permanently mounted on a stone
pier. In connection with this instrument a meridian or azimuth mark will be established, a short distance
off the observatory and visible from it through an o|)ening in the wall. The astronomical bearing of this
mark will be carefully determined by means of an alt-azimuth instrument and solar or stellar observations.

In the same house, but on a separate pier, will be mounteil a Kew dip cir-le, and, in the case of Point
Barrow, a third instrument, a bifilar magnetometer, will also be permanently mounted on its pier. At Point
Barrow the magnetometer (or unifilar) and the bifilar instruments will be mounted in the magm-tic meridian
and at a distance of not less than 12 feet [3.6"'], and the di]) circle will be mounted e(iuidistant from these
instruments, forming an equilateral triangle. At Lady Franklin Hay the two instruments will be mounted
in the plane of the magnetic prime vertical, and not less than 1 2 feet [3.6'"] apart. No iron is to be used in
the construction of these buildings, and they should not be nearer than 50 yards [45.7'"] to any other building,
or double that distance to any large mass of iron. Special reading-lamps (of copper) must be provided for
use with the instruments, and they must be tested to make sure that they do not affect the position of the
magnets. The use of candles stuck into wooden blocks is preferable to using lamps.

When on boat or sledge journeys the party will carry a chronometer, a small alt-azimuth instrument,
with circles of about 3 inches diameter (as constructed by Fauth & Co., of Washington, or by Casella, of
London), provided with a magnetic needle or compass, mounted over its vertical axis, and a dip circle.

V'i

*This method conforms to that followed at all signal stations with minimum thermometers, except as to degree of incKna-
tion, wherein these suggestions should be most carefully followed.

100

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Obser-t'atious at the permanent station. — Hourly observations will be made, for declination and diurnal
variation, with the magnetometer, on three consecutive days about the middle of each month. Besides these
observations, extending over seventy-two hours, there will be made at any convenient intermediate time each
day (of the three) one set of detlections, followed immediately by a set of oscillations for the determination
of the horizontal intensity. At Point Barrow the bifilar will be read immediately after the unifilar. There
will also be made at any intermediate time eaeh day (of the three) a set of dip 'j'jservations. In connection
with the declination the mark will be read once each day ^unless the instrument should accidentally be dis-
turbed), but it suffices to determine the magnetic axis of the declination magnet on one of the three days.
The instrumental constants of the magnetoui 'er will be determined before leaving Washington, and the
observers will use the Coast and Geodetic Survey magnetic bUink forms for their records, or, in case no
special forms are provided, they will use small octavo note-books. They will also -ompute, as soon as the
observations are completed each month, the magnetic mean declination, diurnal range, and turning hours;
also, the liori/.ontal force in absolute measure (English units) and the dip, tabulating the results for each day.

Kxtra observations on other than the three days, about the middle of each month, will be made during
all occurrences of auroral displays; but, as they are likely to be very numerous at Point Barrow, observers
there may confine tlieir extra observations to the more conspicuous displays only. On these occasions the
declinometer (and the bifilar at Point Barrow) will be read, say, every ten minutes, or at shorter or longer
intervals, as the state of the neeille '"n v appear to demand, the object being to establish a connection between
the appearances of the aurora and the motion of the magnetic needle.

When landing on a boat journey or during a sledge journey, at suitable stations (not less than ten or
fifteen niiles apart), the time, latitude, and azimuth will be determined by the alt-azimuth instrument, and
the declination by the same instrument (the hour and minute of the observation is to be noted, in order that
the diurnal variation may be allowed fur). The dip will also be observed, and, in case time is pressing,
reversal of circle, reversal of face of needle, and reversal of polarity may be dispensed with, but the needed
correction to the result, from tht single position of the.instrument, must be ascertained at the permanent
station. Observations of deflections (vith magnetic needle and with weights) will be made with the dip
circle, as arrangeil for relative and absolute total force, the data for the latter to be supplied at the perma-
ne'it station.

It is higiily desirable, especially in the case nf the Lady Tranklin Bay party, that all stations within
reach and formerly occupied by other parties for magnetic purposes be revisited, in order to fi .nish material
from which to deduce the secular changj during the interval; l)esi('.os, ali opportunities shoild be taken
when landing, on the way up, to secure observations for declination, dip, and intensity, the latter best by
oscillations of the intensity magnet. The winter quarters of the late English expedition should be connected
magi.etically with the present quarters.

.-/// magnetic obsenmtions wiU be made on CiHtingen time, as prcnndeit for by the Hamburg conference.

All magnetic records will be kept strictly in conformity with Notes on Measurements of Terrestrial Mag-
netism, Ignited States Coast Survey, Washington, 1877, and other records in connection therewith should
be ecpially clear and complete., and all computations should be made by the observer in separate books.
Duplicates of all records will be m..de, compared with the original, and the latter returned, annually, if prac-
ticable, to the C'hief Signal Officer, for the Superintendent of the Coast and Geodetic Survey, Washirgton,
I). C. The observers should also provitle themselves ivith copies of the Admiralty Manual of Scientific
Enepiiry, the Arctic Manual and Instructions, 1 875, and .\urora;, their characters and spectra, by J. R. Capron,
i88o; also with Terrestrial and Cosmical Magnetism, by E. Walker, k<66, and any other work they may
re(iuire for their Information

V. AnniTioNAL Special In.stritctions.

The rules prescribed in Instructions for the Expedition toward tiie Nortii Pole, as published (in i)am-
l)hlet) by authority of the Hon. (ieorge M. Robeson, Secretary of the Navy, and those contained in Sug-
gestions Relative to Objects of Scientific Investigation in Russian America, both of which are furnisheil,
Will be followed as closely as circumstances permit.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. 107

VL Memorandum of Outfit.

LIST OF APPARATUS TO BE FURNISHED TO I-OINT BARROW ANP, WITH SOMK EXCEPTIONS AND ADP'TIONS, TO LADY

FRANKLIN BAY.

Geographical and astronomical apparatus. — One surveyor's compass and tripod ; one loo-feet [so.s""] chain or steel t>.pe ;
one prismatic compass; one set of pins; one meridian transit, alraut 2 or 3 inches [51 to 76'""'] aperture; three
se>itants; three artificial horirans; eight marine chronometers — mean time; one marine chronometer — sidereal; two
pocket chronometers mean time. (If practicable these will be rated at various temperatures at the Ilorological
Bureau of the Observatory of Yale College.)

Magnetic apparatus. — One complete magnetometer — Fauth & Co. — unifilar declinometer— catalogue No. 70, price $400,
extra light needles and mirror for auroral disturbantos; one Kew dip circle, larger si/.e.

Pendulum apparatus. — Pendulum apparatus will be carried and used by a special ten-porary party from the United
States Coast and Geodetic Survey. ,

Deep-sea sounding. — (Will be left to the United States Coast Survey.)

Meteorological apparatus.- -One instrument shelter of open wooden louver work, made in sections, (see plan) ; one inner
thermometer shelter of open giilvaiii/ed iron louver work, made in sections (see plan) ; twelve mercurial thermoni
eters, ordinary stem divided ; twelve spirit thermometers, onlinary stem divided ; six mercurial thermomclers, nuix
imum stem divided ; six spirit thermomclers, minimum stem divided ; six special minimum thermometers, from
Yale College; four p.sychrimieters, mercurial, wet bulb; one dew-jxiint apparatus, Regnault's ; six water thernuini-
eters and three cases. Signal .Service pattern, for surface temperatures; two mercurial marine barometers; four
mercurial cistern barometers (Green, Signal Service pattern), Lirge bore, rer\ding to thousandths; three aneroiil
barometers (Casella's make) ; two hair hygrometers; two self-registers, one double and one single, for anemometers
and anemoscopes (Signal Service jiattern. Gibbon ur Eccard) ; six extra attach'' merniometers for barometers ; six
extra barometer tubes for barometers; fc-r rain-gauges, two copper and two galvanized iron; six divided sticks
for measuring rain and snow ; ten pounds pure mercury ; four iinemometers (Robinson's) ; four arms and eups and
, four spindles, for Robinson's anemometer, for repairs; two vanes, small ; one large vane, complete ; one Kccanl

contact (interior); 10 battery cells (Kagle) and supplies for same for three years; two thousand y.ards [i.SsS'"]
insulated wire ; four telephones and two nil bells ; one galvanometer for observations of ground currents ; one hun-
dred feet [30.5"'] cable, for the double self-register ; four liox soifnders.

Signal apparatus, — Two Grugan's heliographs ; four sets signal kits complete ; six signal .>ile cards.

Blank botis and forms. — Twelve diaries for 1881. 1882, and 1883, respectively, one to be kept by each man; two
hundred and fifty books for original record <>.' .iieteorological oliservations ; lifty Manl^ books for daily journal, for
miscellaneous observations; fifty volumes Kor.n 4, for copy of original record; three hundred star cliarts, for
auroras, &c. ; one hundred forms for comparison of barometers ; eight hundred forms for anemometer register.

Books. — Instructions to Observers, .Signal Service, U. S. .-V. ; Annual Reports of tlie < iiicf Signal Officer, from 1873 to
1880. inclusive; Looniis's Treatise on Meteorology; Huchan's Handy Hook of Meteorology; Smithsonian Miscel
laneous Collections, Vol. I.; Guyot's Meteorological and Physical Tallies; Loomis's Practical Astronomy; Church's
Trigonometry; Chauvenet's Practical Astronomy ; Bowditch's Navigator; Bowditch's U-seful Tables; l.ee's t'ol-
lection of Tables and Formula; American Nautical Alnian.ic for iSSi, 1SS2, and 1883; Admiralty Manual of
Scientific Incpiiry, 4th ed.; Admiralty Manual and Instructions for Arctic l!xpedition, 1875; Nares's, &c.. Reports
of English Arctic Kxpedition; Nares's Narrative of Voyage to Polar Sea, London, 1S78; ('harts, I'liileil Slates
Hydrographic Office, No. 68, and British Admiralty, Nos. 593, 2i'>4, 243^. liremiker's edition of \ ega's l.oga-
rithmic Tables ; Barlow's Tables; Coast Survey Papers uu Time, Latitude, Longitude, Magnetics, and Tidal
Observations; Everett's Translation of Deschanel; Sigsbee on Deep Sea Sounding, &c. (U. S. Coast Survey
Rejiort); Markham's Collection of Papers Relating to Arctic Geography, l.omlon, 1877; Schotl's Reduction of
Observations of Hayes aiul Sontag, of Dr. Kane, and of McClintock; Manual of Military lelcgraphy ; Myer's
Manual of Signals; J. R. Capron, Auronv: their characters and spectra; Pope's Modem I'laelice of the Electric
Telegraph; Instructions for the Expetlition toward the North Pole, from lion. George M. Robeson, Secretary of
the Navy ; stationery, as ordinarily supplied ; drawing paper and instruments.

All officers and observers of the expetlition are chargetl to at once familiarize themselves in detail with
these instructions, and in the practice of the duties they prescribe, together with a tl.i rough knowledge of
the instruments and their use; and commanding officers are specially charged to see tli;i* these retiuirements
are observed.

Official memorandum to accompany instructions No. 72.

W. B. Hazkn,
Brig, and Bvt. Maj. Gen.., Chief Signal Officer, U, S. A.

; !l

.:!i

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■M

108

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION,

Appendix No. 4. — Lisi of commissary subsistence stores taken with the Lady Franklin Bay

Expedition.

Packages.

Articles .ind quantities.

Remarks.

42 barrels _ .

6 boxes

23 barrels . .
36 boxes

5 Iroxes .. .
147 barrels . .

42 barrels pork

3, 000 pounds bacon

23 barrels salt beef

120 2-poun(l cans corned beef
1 20 2-pound cans roast beef _ _ .
17,899 pounds hard bread

7 boxes

5 barrels

24 boxes

2 bairclf

2 l)arrels

8 boxes

10 boxes

19 boxes

2 packages

I package

25 half-barrels .

6 barrels

17 boxes

4 boxes

7 sacks

3 boxes

9 boxes

1 box

19 boxes

5 boxes

2 Ixjxes

4 Ikjxcs

3 half-barrels .
42 boxes ._

2 packages _ _ .

8 l)0Xci

I box

4 boxes
6 boxes

30 casks

4 barrels . .

10 boxes

2 boxes

6 boxes

13 boxes

2 boxes

5 packages
2 boxes

40 boxes

11 boxes

13 boxes

1 box

40 boxes

4 boxes

6 boxes

5 boxes

2 boyjs

4 bo>:';

8 boxes

10 kegs

as kegs

2 boxes

980 pounds commeal (tinsl

I, 264 pounds white beans

I, 395 ]X>unds black beans

576 3-pound cans baked beans

420 pounds split peas

S95 pounds rice

I, 120 pounds hominy (lo-pound cans)

522 pounds cheese

1,900 pounds Rio coftee, roasted and ground

200 pounds green gunpowder tea ._.

48 pounds l)lack Oolong tea

56 pounds English breakfast tea

3,060 pounds suj.'!", -A"

269 gallons vi'.iigar _..

510 pounds ..andles

240 pounds soap

I, 568 [Kiunds .salt

75 pounds pepper, black

108 pounds ye.ist-powder

5 pounds allspice

456 3-poiind cans apples

60 i-^allon cans n.pples

100 pourJs evaporated apples

96 cans asparagus

242 pounds breakfast bacon

3, 024 pounds Top Ocan butter

204 pounds McCobb's chocolate

200 pounds liaker's chocolate

5 iKninds cinnamon

24 2-pound c^ns clams

5 potinds noves

19? pounds Java coffee, roasted and ground

144 cans green corn

24 4-ounce Irottles lemon extract

24 4-ounce bottles vanilla extract

6, 450 pounds family flour ,.

50 packet". Swinl)urn's gelatine

50 packets Nelson's gelatine.

10 pounds ginger

729 pounds sugar-cured ham

100 pounds ho|)S

48 2-pound cans blackberry jam

144 cans currant jelly '.

780 pounds lard (5 -pound tins)

48 cans lobster (2-pound cans)

500 pounds macaroni

288 boxes safety matches

1,920 cans milk _.

198 pounds mustard

5 pounds nutnjcgs

I, 720 pounds o.itmeal (tins)

12 bottles olive oil (I.ucca)

960 cans onions (2'/^ll). cans)

96 cans oysters (2-lb. cans)

144 cans pe.iclies (3-lb. cans)

250 pounds evaporated peaches

48 cans pears (2-lb. cans) ..

96 cans green peas, American

10 pounds Chili Colorado pepper

96 bottles chow-chow pickles (([t. bottles)

100 gallons onion pickles ... ..

250 gallons cucumber pickles.

48 cans pine-apples (2-lb. cans)

Fair.

Excellent.

Poor ; very lean.

Ciood.

Excellent ; much larger quantity needed.

Excellent; less proportion required, as fresh bread is

preferable.
Very good.

/ Very good ; should have been two-thinls white and
\ one-third black.

Very good ; excellent for short field journeys.
Excellent ; much larger quantity needed.
Very good.
Excellent.
Very good.
Excellent.

Excellent; but cheaper grades.liHed better.
Excellent.
Good.
Very good.

Do.

Do.
Good.

Do.
Excellent.

Very good, " . , »

Excellent.

Do.

Do.
Kxcellent; other vegetables more valuable.
Excellent.

Do.
Fair; powdered, cake better.
Excellent.

Excellent; too much by half.
Excellent ; very much larger quantity needed.
Excellent; too much by half.
Excellent.
Excellent ; larger supply needed.

Do. Do.

Excellent.

Do.

Do.
Excellent at first but deteriorated.
Excellent; too many by three-fourths.
Excellent; larger supply needed.
Fair; better replace by other .sweets.
Excellent.

Do.

Do.
Not suitt<l f(u' Arctic service.
Excellent.
Excellent ; too much by three-fourths.

1 )o. .

Do.
Fair.

Excellent.

Fair; replace by clams or other shellfish.
Excell.-nt; much larger supply needed.

Di.

Lu.

Do.

Do. ■

Excellent ; very much superior to cucumber.
Fair ; should have been onion or chow-chow.
Excellent.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. 109

List of commissary subsistence stores taken with the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition — Continued.

Packages.

I 1X)X

I box

\ IX)X

52 l)Oxes

6 boxes .

5 boxes

I package .

I package

4 packages . . .

I )arrel

42 boxes ..

I l>ox .

I box

1 box ...... .

2 boxes

10 taxes

II l)oxes

10 iMJxes

2 boxes

10 half-barrels..

3 half-barrels .. _

2 box-is ..

I box

25 boxes

12 boxes

I Ikjx

40 boxes

I 1k)x

5 boxes

6 l)oxes

I l)OX

I box

2 boxes

21 Iwxes

2 boxes

3 boxes

8 boxes

6 half-barrels..

8 boxes

i81iJf-barrels..

42 boxes

2 boxes

I l)OX

5 boxes

Articles and quantities.

48 pipesbriarwood, No. 2

48 pipes briarwood, No 3

120 pipe-sterrs, cherry

120 pipe-stems, weichsel

I, 248 cans potatoes (2j^-lb. cans)

144 cans preserved damsons

244 pounds prunes

15 ^ -boxes raisins, I,. L

50^ pounds raisins, Sultana

96 cans s.ilmon (2-lb. cans) ...

95 bags table salt

1,008 cans sauce, cranberry

12 lx)ttles Tobin's Chili sauce

12 bottles Worcestershire sauce

72 cakes Castile toilet soap

96 cakes glycerine toilet soap

24 cakes lettuce toilet soap .. .

48 cakes No. go toilet soap

48 cakes CJuimauve toilet soap

240 cans oxtail soup

264 cans mock turtle soup

240 packets vegetable soup

40 pounds corn-starch

1,063 pounds granulated sugar

96 gallons sirup

12 gallons maple sirup

25 pounds tapioca

1,000 pounds plug tobacco

Remarks.

300 pounds Durham tobacco

25 pounds Lone Jack tobacco

960 cans tomatoes (3-lb. cans)

140 pounds cracked wheat

120 cans Lima beans (2-lb. cans)

144 2-lb. cans beef extract

24 4-0Z. bottles celery extract

24 2-lb. cans mutton extract

48 2-lb. cans crab meat

504 cans condensed eggs

280 pounds farina (tins)

180 pounds figs ..

192 cans gooseberries (2-lb. cans) . ..
192^ gallons New Orleans molasses.

96 jars preserved peaches

12 bottles Tobasco pepper

18 ^-bbls. pickles, sauerkraut

1,008 cans rhubarb

48 3-lb. cans nuinces

48 cans shrimps

200 pounds salt-water soap

Excellent.

Do.

Do.
Excellent ; for field service ".n additional supply of evap-

t^rated needed,
.excellent.
Lvcellent; much larger supply needed

Do.
Excellent.

Do.

Do.
Excellent; more needed.

Do.
Poor.
Excellent.

Do.

Do.
Ex "ellent ; much more needed.
Exc.-llent.
Excellent; more needed.

Do.

Do.
Excellent; could well have replaced 100 pounds by

Durham and other varieties.
Excellent.

Do.
Excellent ; much more needed.
Poor.
Good.

Poor; standard quality needed.
Good.

Poor ; standard <(uali!y needed.
Excellent ; more needed.
Fair ; many cans poor, but others excellent.
Good; finer quality preferred.
Good.

Do.
Excellent ; men prefer sirup.
Excellent ; prefer canned, with light sirup.
Excellent.

Good at first; soon spoiled.

Excellent ; should prefer three-fourths other fruits.
Excellent.

Excellent ; much more needed.
Excellent.

Appendix No. 5. — Records left at and taken from Southeast Cary Island^ August^ 18S1.

International Polar Expedition to Lady Frank. in Bay, fitted ouf by the War Department under tiie super.

vision of General W. U, Hazen, Chief Signal Officer, United States Army, and commanded by

First Lieut. A. W. Greely, Fifth Cavalry, Acting Signal Officer and Assistant.

Left, in the steamship Frotcus, island off Upernivik, 7 p. rn., July 29th, 1881; and at 7 a m. July 31st,

stopped by fog about 6 miles south of land supposed to be Cape York. Middle passage taken and found

to be entirely unobstructed by ice. Landed at southeast island of Cary Group at 5.45 p. m., Aug. i. British

provision depot and boat of 1875 found ii: good condition. Old records taken and new records left at

depot and cairn. All well. This notice deposited August ist, i88r.

[NoTK. — The English records referred to are not printed, having been returned, through the War Department, to the English
Admiralty.]

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Appendix No. 6. — Lieutenant Kislingbury' s report of trip to Life Boat Cove.

On Steamer Proteus, off Littleton Island, A..gust 2, i88i.

Sir: I have the honor respectfully to report, as directed, that in obedience to your verbal directions of
this date, accompanied by Dr, Pavy, Mr. Clay, Photographer Rice, and the two Eskimo, I proceeded in
the whaleboat to Life Boat Cove and to place in that vicinity occupied by the crew of the Polaris after the
wreck of the same. The place has been visited by some persons, probably Eskimo, since Captain Nares was
there, as nearly everything mentioned by him as being there at the time has been taken away.

Also visited tiic cairn built by the people of the /l)/am, and, with the exception of some scattered frag-
ments of books, nothing was found. The stones of which the cairn was built were scattered. Some distance
from the cairn, behind some rocks, I found the different parts of a transit instrument with the frame-work
complete but damaged. The glasses and micrometer had been taken and, evidently with care, unscrewed.
I brought everything pertaining to the transit on board, together with many other articles, thinking you
might desire them as relics. Have turned them over to Dr. Pavy, who will keep them together and can give
list if required.

The boxes, carpenter's tools, files, needles, and skin boats, mentioned by Captain Nares, had all been
taken away. Not a piece of wood of which the house had been built was left. A broken cooking-stove,
several pieces of rusty stove-pipe, ship-pulleys, broken ^jarts of instruments, broken compass-frame, broken
tools, broken part of steam-engine, hose-pipe, broken hinges, several iron hooks with broken pulleys attached;
in fact, all sorts of odds and ends were strewn about the place where the house had been built. But every-
thing showed evidence of having been overhauled. No Eskimo were seen, and no signs of any having
recently been in the neighborhood were noticed.

Mr. Rice took negatives of the place and of Life Boat Cove.

T shot one snow-gull, four eider-duck, and one small auk. Saw eleven walrus in the vicinity of Life
Boat Cove, sporting in the water, and had a somewhat exciting time with one, a female. Mr. Clay and
myself put two shots into her, one in the head and one through the neck, and hit her three times afterwards,
when she started towards the boat with her head raised, mouth open, and a determined, wicked look. We
waited until she was within about 20 feet [6'"] of us, when we put two shots into her head. She went down
immediately, which was the last seen of her. A young one that climbed over her after the poor creature was
wounded, was shot by Mr. Clay, and sank at once. I am convinced from this experience that it will be
almost impossible to get a walrus after killing it in the water, because they sink soon as dead. With a har-
poon, however, lodged in the walrus after he is wounded, the trouble of dispatching and keeping him from
sinking would be lessened. An ax or strong hatchet would also be a useful thing to have at hand. The
best manner of killing and securing them I think would be to catch them on the land or ice, some distance
from the water, and creej) ui) close enough to send a ball with force into his head, and from an examination
of the skull I believe the only i)lace a ball could etfect an entrance would be in the eye.

Coming back we were able to use our sail, but in going we had hard rowing as the wind was brisk and
dead against us.

T am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

Fred. F. Kislingbury,
Second Lieutenant, Eleventh Infantry, A. S. O.

First Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Lady Franklin Bay Expedition, «

Appendix No. 7. — Records taken from and left at Wasliington Irving Island, August, 188 r.

International Polar Expedition to Lady Franklin Bay, fitted out by the War Department, under the super-
vision of General W. B. Hazen, Chief Signal Officer, United States Army, and commanded by
First Lieut. A. W. (Ireely, ('"ifth Cavalry, Acting Signal Officer and Assistant.
Left, in steamship ProteuH, island off Upernivik 7 ]). m., July 29, 1881, and at 7 a. m. July 31, stopped
by fog about 6 miles south of land sujjposed to be Cape York. Middle passage taken and found to be

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Ill

entirely unobstructed by ice. Landed at southeast island of Gary Group at 5.45 p. m., August i. British
provision depot and boat of 1875 found in good condition. Old records taken and new records left at depot
and cairn. Reached Littleton Island 1 1.30 a. m., August 2d. Found and brought on board mail for H. M.
S. ..^.V and Discovery, left by Sir Allen Young. Left Littleton Island 10.45 p.m., August 2d, and rer.ched
Cape Huwkes 8.45 a. m., August 3, 1881, running at full speed from Littleton Island and encountering no
pack or, indeed, other ice of slightest importance.

[NoiE. — The English records referred to are not printed, having been returned, through the War Department, to the English
Admiralty.]

■I

Appendix No. 8. — Records obtained at Discovery Harbor^ August r, 188 r.

The original records were forwarded to the British Government, through the War and State Depart-
ments, December 5, i88i.
No copies were retained.

Appendix No. g. — Lieutenant Lockivood'' s report on Water-course Bay, August, 1881.

FoR-^ Conger, Lady Franklin Bay, Grinnell Land, August 15, 1881.

Sir: Pursuant to your verbal instructions I have the honor to rejjort, that on the nth instant I pro-
ceeded ashore from the steamship Proteus, and after a walk of some hours over the intervening high land
separating our present position. Discovery Harbor, from Cape Murchison, found with some difficulty the
coal seam referred to in the report of the British expedition of iSys-'yG.

The coal is soft and Hes: apparently in two deposits, which are probably connected and form one seam.
The largest is exposed for about a hundred yards fgi'"] along the bed of the stream, its front vertical and about
20 or 25 feet [6 or 7™] high by perhaps 4 [i""] deep, covered on top by a mass of slate. The second seam is
much smaller and probably 100 yards [gi""] farther down-stream; the coal lies in thin strata, some of which I
readily pulled down by hand. The banks of the stream at this point, and for a mile or more above, are (luite or
so nearly vertical as to be impassable ; the stream also runs in places through natural tunnels of snow.
Below and near the straits, which are about three quarters of a mile distant, the banks become much lower,
offering places where a sledge or other vehicle could attain the river bed though with more or less difficulty.
The bed of the stream itself has a very slight grade to the sea, and when frozen and covered with snow, but
only then, furnishes an excellent outlet for the coal.

Water-course Bay is a mere indentation of the coast and is wholly exposed to all winds from the north-
east to the south. The shore is very shallow, where observed, small floe pieces being aground 50 yards [45.7'"]
from the beach. At the time I visited the place the straits were filled with ice moving rapidly north before
a southwest wind; but there was quite an extent of open water between the two capes forming "the bay"
and extending out a hundred yards [91'°] or more from shore. The coast slopes gradually down to the bay in
a terrace-like formation from the divide a mile to the rear; all points are exposed to the same winds as the
bay. This slope offers a very good route for wagon or sledge; crossing the intervening ridge the short
descent to the creek becomes somewhat steep, but thence to our present location the grade is exceedingly
slight, being up one wide level valley and down another; in short, the route across is quite practicable and
very good indeed-
Very respectfully, your ot edi int servant,

J. B. LOCKWOOD,

Second Lieutenant, Twenty -third Infantry^ A. S. O.
First Lieut. A. W. Greely,

Fifth Cavalry, A, S, 0. and Assistant, Commanding Expedition.

•

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112

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Appendix No. io. — Lieutenant Kislingbury s request to be relieved^ with Lieutenant Greeiys

statement.

Fort Conger, Lady Franklin Bay, August 26, 1881.

Sir : In conversation at breakfast this morning you said, in effect, that if I could not agree to certain
ideas of yours I " had better go." This I take that my services are no longer desirable to you as a member
of this expedition.

After receiving such a suggestion or invitation to go, from my commanding officer, because, possibly, I
expressed myself too freely, the only thing I feel left for me to do is to ask to be relieved from duty as a
member of the expedition and ordered to report to the Chief Signal Officer of the Army. On other occasions
you have seen fit to find fault with me over matters in which I may have been lacking, or which might have
been annoying to you but of no practical importance, and from your final request of this m< -"> g, already
•stated, it will doubtless be better that I go.

You and I disagreed this morning because I differed from you in the matter of early breakfasting, I
objected to being compelled or required to breakfast so early. You would have me breakfast when the men
do, at 7 a. m. I would nu* agree that the officers should be required to rise at the same time and breakfast
at the same time with the men. You then said tb:it I " had better go " unless I saw fit to do as you required
in such matters. If I had been accused of anything of a serious nature, warranting you in telling me this
or anything tending to a necessity for a severance of my connection with the expedition, I would act differ-
ently in this matter — would, doubtless, resist being relieved ; but if such a trivial matter as this morning
causes you to express such a wish as you did — so readily — I cannot but feel that the comfort, peace, and
harmony, and even success, of the expedition may be jeopardized if I remain. It is possible that I am
at fault, but, if so, it can be only because I have been too candid.

The sacrifices I make in parting from the expedition will be in every way of a serious nature. Pecu-
niarily, I place myself in a very embarrassing position. The year's pay and allowances, paid me in advance
by the Government, has been nearly all absorbed in the liquidation of my liabilities, which would have been
settled from month to month had I not come on this expedition, but which were paid by me before I left,
knowing, of course, that there would be no opportunity to negotiate money matters during my absence.

But the many personal sacrifices I make are too numerous to particularize. I have also been put to
no inconsiderate expense in the matter of personal outfit for clothing suitable for this climate, and inci-
dentals occasioned by changing station such a distance, which were not by any means covered by allow-
ances received from the Government. I shall therefore expect the Government to be at least lenient
to me, or thoughtful, considering my pecuniary matters, in some manner that may suggest itself during the
ensuing nine months, until I have reimbursed my advance pay and allowances and can commence again to
draw my regular monthly pay.

It is hardly necessary to say anything further, ji?/ I shall leave the expedition in sorrow. I am become
fond of Arctic life. I see many bright hopes ahead. Physically I feel myself competent to endure the pri-
vations, hardships, and depressing influences incidental to life here, and contemplated working hard for the
success of the expedition.

But I must be in the way or you could not have told me what you did this morning, and rather than
be the slightest bar to the present or future success of the expedition, I abandon all my bright expectations,
and feel that it would be better that I go before it becomes too late for me to do so.

The Proteus is still within reaching distance. With the assistance of enough men to help me take my
things off to ship I can reach her over the ice. As there is a probability of the vessel being obliged to
winter in the Arctic, I would ask that enough subsistence and antiscorbutics sufficient to last me until next
season be furnished me.

I would also ask that you furnish me a letter to hand to the Chief Signal Officer of the Army explain-
ing this matter and the state of my pecuniary aftairs.

I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

Fred. F. Kislingburv,
Second Lieutenant^ Eleventh Infantry, Acting Signal Officer,

First Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Fifth Cavalry, Acting Signal Officer and Assistant,

Commanding International Polar Expedition.

p L ^y . ep yj'r 1! I J' llflf lB IWt

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

113

Fort Conger, Lady Franklin Bay, Grinnell Land, August 26, i88i.

Respectfully forwarded to the Chief Signal Officer of the Army.

Lieutenant Kislingbury has been relieved, in accordance with this request. In connection with my
finding fault with him on previous occasions he doubtless alludes to a reprimand given because for several
days after landing, while the men were working 16 hours daily, Lieutenant Kislingbury rose only at hours
ranging from 10 a. m. to i p. m., and when sent for at i p. m. was in bed. This reproof was received with
bad grace. This morning breakfast was delayed half an hour, and I deemed it necessary to say that the
officers must rise for breakfast when the men did. Lieutenant Kislingbury said that he would not rise, but
would first go without his breakfast. I said that he must conform to the rules and rise whether he ate or
not. He said he would do so, only if it was insisted on. I said that when an officer required orders to be
insisted on, his usefulness as a member of the expedition was destroyed. I declined further argument.

Previous to issuing this order Lieutenant Kislingbury was informed, in the presence of Lieutenant
Lockwood and Dr. Pavy, that he could not base his request on any wish of mine to lose him, but that it
must rest entirely on the question of heerful subordination to expeditionary regulations, and that his status
was not such he should so state. He so acknowledged, reiterating his unwillingness to conform to post
regulations which he deemed obnoxious. Such an assertion shows his unfitness to remain here longer.
While admitting his peculiar fitness for field work, and regretting his loss on that account, I cannot retain
him.

As regards the reasonableness of the regulation as to breakfast, it should be borne in mind that the
meal is at 7 a. m., Washington mean time (7.50 mean time), and that one man, necessarily unaided, cooks for
four officers and twenty-one men. Lieutenant Kislingbury has been furnished with subsistence slores asked
for. As to his pecuniary matters I have no recommendations.

A. W. Greely,

Fi'-st Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding International Polar Expedition.

Appendix No. ii. — Orders No. 5, relieving Lieutenant Kislingbury^ and ordering him to

report to the Chief Signal Officer.

[Orders No. 5.]

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, August 26, i88j.
Second Lieut. F. F. Kislingbury, Eleventh Infantry, Acting Signal Officer, is at his own lequest relieved
from duty as a member of this expedition, and, returning by the steamer Proteus to St. John's, Newfound-
land, will report in person without delay to the Chief Signal Officer of the Army at Washington, D. C.

A. W. Greely,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. 0. and Assistant,

Commanding the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.

'mm

imI

fiU

Appendix No. 12. — Orders No. 6, amending Orders No. 5.

[Orders No. 6.]

Fort Conger, Grinnell LAtio, August 2^, 1881.
The execution of Orders No. 5, current series, from these headquarters, being r'^ndered impracticable
by the departure of the steamship Proteus, its provisions are so far modified as to direct Second Lieut. F.
F. Kislingbury, Eleventh Infantry, Acting Signal Officer, to proceed from this place to St. John's, New-
foundland, by the first visiting steamship. In the mean time Lieutenant Kislingbury will be considered as on

waiting orders at this place.

A. W. Greely,

First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Second Lieut. F. F. Kislingbury, Commanding the Expedition.

Eleventh Infantry, Acting Signal Officer. . .

H. Mi8. 393 8

114

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Appendix No. 13. — Lieutenant Kislingbttry' s request for modification of Orders No. 6.

Fort Conger, Grinnell \,MiTi, October 2\,\^%i.

Sir: It has occurred to me for the first time within the past week that my status, " waiting orders," may,
by some possible construction of law, affect my pay.

My fears may be groundless, but in order that there may be no doubt in the matter I would respectfully
ask that the clause following the word " steamship " be stricken from Orders No. 6, which I enclose.

The orders would still have the same effect without this clause, because Orders No. 5 relieved me from
duty with the expedition ; and if the words " waiting orders " arc omitted from the orders any question
regarding my pay could not then be raised. In any event I shall feel easier in mind if this is done.
I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

Fred. F. KisLiNonuRV,
Second Lieutenant, Eleventh Infantry.
First Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Actin,^ Signal Officer an./ Assistant, Commanding; United States Expedition.

V . •>•

Appendix No. 14. — Orders No. S, modifying Orders No. 6,

[Orders No. 8.]

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, October 24, 1881.
The final paragraph of Orders N'l. 6, current series, from this station, reading, " In the mean time
Lieutenant Kislingbur^ will be considenjd as on waiting orders at this place," is amended so as to read :
" In the mean time Lieutenant Kisiingbury will not be considered as a member of this expeditionary force

but as temporarily at tliC station waiting transportation."

A. W. Greely,
First Lieut., Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Expedition,
Second Lieut. F. F. Kislingbur\,

Eleventh Infamiy, Acting Signal Officer.

ft ;■

Appendix No. 15. — Lieutenant Lockwood''s report on exploration of St. Patrick Valley.

Lady Franklin Bay, Grinnell \.MiD, August xi, 1881.

Sir: I have the honor to render the following report of my journey to St. Patrick Bay, made in
obedience to your wriuen instructions of the 29th instant :

With Sergeants brainard and Cross the party stnvted on foot at 9 a. m. of that date and took its course
along the valley or low land '.o the northeast of our present position, lying between the "hogback," as
called on the English map, and the range >f high hills or mo mtains running parnliv.1 and to the south of it.
The only grade of any importance, as regards steepness, lies between our stat'on and the gap to the west of
Mount Cartmel. Even this may be obviated by starting hence directly north, instead of northeast through
the gap, though by so doing the route would be sensibly lengthened. liy following our trnil, however, the
route selected is not difficult, and on attaining the elevation of the gap, which is quite considerable, the
course taken, when covered witli snow, as it was at the time of my trip though not very deep, is direct and
quite easy all the way to St. Patrick Bay. The grade is hardly more thaa perceptible for the greater part
of the distance, except as interrupted by slight undulations in the ground caused by the few water-courses
like 'prairie-draws," whi'h take their courses from thi; mountain ranges on either side. The route will be
much better after a vhile when the snow has entirely covered up the sharp litde hills, a foot or so in height
and very close together, wliidi the frost or sonu other action of the elements has created. This character
of the ground, however, exists only in places. Pursuing our course between and generally parallel to the
ranges referred to, we came to the bay about i o'clock. One hour was occupied en route in skinning and
cutting up a musk-ox which I killed, making the time in crossing three hours.

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

115

Feeling not quite assured of the identity of the bay, on account of various discrepancies in the map, I
proceeded with party in a northerly direction along what forms the eastern slope of the "hogback," very
steep and rocky but affording a good view of the country to the north and east intersected with numerous
deep canons. We proceeded in this direction about a mile, and then turning eastward and climbing down
a very steep descent crossed the wide deep bed of a very insignificant river coming from the northwest —
insignificant and yet larger than any hitherto seen in these regions. We followed up its bed, which is at
least half a mile broad, for perhaps a mile, and then taking advantage of a break in the wall on the further
side, climbed our ascent to the eastward for almost three hours, when we gained an altitYide from which
could be seen the straits and the coast beyond. We were opposite, I think, Newman Bay. It was now
6 o'clock in the evening, and feeling well satisfied that the little arm of the straits first met with (though
seemingly entirely too small and otherwise "out") must be St. Patrick Bay, I retraced my course to the
river-bed and followed it down to the bay. We found it necessary to climb the continuation of the steep,
rugged ascent, already referred to, between the river and the "hogback," which took an hour, and it being
then too late to proceed to the south, as I had originally intended, we returned to the station, which we
reached about 12.30 a. m. The site selected for the depot is a good one, excepting more or less difficulty
which will have to be encountered in reaching the level of the bay; the feet of the whole party being very
cold and wet I left this for more complete examination on some other occasion.

I shot one musk-ox, as already stated, and saw another in the distance, up the river; we saw a good
many tracks of foxes and hare, but these were all the an . ils and signs of animal life observed.

Better to illustrate the subject, I have the honor to append a small maj)* or plan showing the route
taken. The country to the west of St. Patrick Bay is a copy of the English map; that from the nGrlli is
from my recollection of it, and, of course, only represents it in a very general way.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

J. B. LOCKWOOD,

Second Lieutenant, Twenty-third Infantry, A. S,
Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Fifth Cavalry, Acting Signal Officer and Assistant,

Commanding United States International Polar Expedition.

Appendix No. 16. — Sergeant Brainarcfs report on establishing Depot B, near Cape Beechey.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, September 4, i88i.

Sir: I have the honor to submit the following report of a boat journey to Cape Beechey for the purpose
of establishing a depot of supplies for the use of northern exploring parties during the coming spring:

In conformity with your instructions of August 30, 188 1, the whale-boat was hauled to the open water
near Dutch Island and placed in a secure position for the night. The following morning the boat was
launched and loaded with the stores brought from the station by the party, under your charge, the same
morning. Owing to the unsafe condition of the newly formed ice, considerable difficulty was experienced
in transferring the supplies from the ice to the boat. It was accomplished, however, without accident, and
the start made at i o. 1 5 a. m. My crew consisted of Sergeants Jewell and Cross, Corporal Salor, and Private
Connell. We rounded Dutch Island in comparatively clear water, but the moving ice in the distance warned
us that caution was necessary.

Soon after leaving Dutch Island we encountered stream ice, and as we approached Distant Cape the
ice became more compact, the lanes less frequent and narrower, necessitating extreme caution in pushing our
boat through them. The floes were moving about in the eddy at this cape with such velocity that we almost
despaired of effecting a passage. We were prepared at all times to unload the boat and haul her on a floe
if essential to safety.

On several separate occasions, notwithstanding our watchfulness, we narrowly escaped being crushed
between floes moving in opposite directions. Had not the crew retained possession of their presence of
mind, keeping constantly on the alert, and using their strength to the best advantage when a new danger
menaced them, our boat must have been crushed to atoms. Our situation was deplorable in the extreme.

*Not reproduced.

mm,

|l ill

116

THE LADY FRANK LIN BAY EXPEDITION.

A new danger arose in the shape of young ire which (ormeil quickly between the floes, hut was no par-
ticular hindrance to their movements. Its dangers to us were twofold— the dithcuity experienced in i)ushing
our boat through the new ice while endeavoring to elude whirling floes which threatened us with destruction,
and the danger of having our boat cut through at th'_ water-line by this ra/.orlike formation of ice. In many
places this ice was found to have attained a thickness of over an inch [25"""] and our channel was necessarily
made by breaking the way with axes. Underneath this covering debris, or .sludge-ice, was found to have
accumulated to the depth of six inches [152"""] and through which it was with the greatest difficulty that our
boat could be moved. At 4.30 p. m. we cleared the j)ack and rounded Distant Cape, keeping well out, in
order to take advantage of the lanes which appeared larger and more numerous as we receded from the
shore. In crossing the entrance to Water-course Bay, at 6 p. m., the ice appeared to have scattered some:
what in the direction of its northern termination. Steering towards shore, we found that not only did this
condition exist, but the new ice was much less troublesome than before.

Between this point and the north shore of St. Patrick's Bay very little ice of a formidable character was
met with. At 7 p. m., just north of this cape, our further progress was checked by new ice which had
closed all lanes. Not wishing to venture too far into the channel with the heavily laden boat, I tied to the
ice-foot to await the result of a change in the tide. During the time we remained inactive, coffee was made
and a light lunch partaken of. The evident curiosity of a young seal having prompted it to approach quite
near our boat, it was killed by Connell and taken on board. A large fragment of the ice-foot, becoming
detached from underneath, struck the keel of our boat with great force on rising to the surface, and raised
the stern far out of the water. No damage, however, was done, except that a box containing articles of
importance to our equipment was thrown into the water and everything contained in it lost. Appendix A
forms a list of the articles thus lost.

A brisk northerly wind springing up at about 8 o'clock, the floes were once more set in motion, and the
young ice disappeared as if by magic. At 9 o'clock we again resumed our course and arrived opposite
Mount Beaufort at 12.30 a. m., September i. Owing to the fringe of floebergs which lined the shore in the
form of a huge wall as far northward as the clitTs of Cape Beechey, no landing could be made at this point.
Turning the boat southward we moved slowly down the coast, examining carefully every place at which we
thought a landing could be effected. At i a. m., about i mile south of Mount Beaufort, we found a small
gap in the ice-wall, through which we had very little difficulty in transporting our supplies.

We had barely time to haul the boat to a place of safety after unloading before an ice pack from the
north, driven by a high wind, passed down the channel. The pack was supplemented at intervals during the
day by other detached masses from the Polar basin, all of which appeared to choke the channel not far to the
southward.

I detailed a man for the purpose, and at all times a strict watch was kept of the movements of the ice,
in order that the first favorable opening which occurred might be taken advantage of. I frequently visited
the high ground in the vicinity of the tent, but could discover no lane of water by which we could escape.

A suitable site for the tent was found on the low bench land, about 20 feet [6'"] above high tide and
100 yards [91"'] from the water. The stores were carefully packed inside and securely covered with a
rubber blanket to protect them from dampness and the drifting snow.

Low and dense fogs prevented any accurate bearings being taken during the day with the prismatic
compass.

On the morning of September 2 Sergeant Jewell and Private Connell went to the summit of Mount
Beaufort with instructions to take bearings of all prominent points and headlands, and to erect a cairn in
which a record would be placed, stating the locality of the cache, and the date of deposit. They were also
instructed to inspect and report on the condition of the channel to the southward. On returning to camp
they reported the ice firmly massed between Cape Murchison and our position, and that the existing circum-
stances extended no possibility of escape by boat.

In view of the damage already sustained by the whale-boat in pushing through the new ice, I consid-
ered it highly injudicious to again venture into the pack without having a suitable sheathing placed on her
sides as a protection from the ice.

At 3 p. m. we beached her at the base of the bench land contiguous to the depot, and deposited all
her gear in a place of safety. Immediately after this we turned our faces towards Fort Conger, each man
carrying a bundle on his shoulders, consisting of overcoat, shoes, &c., weighing from twenty-five to thirty-five
pounds.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

117

Not deeming it necessary or advisable to follow the tortuous course of the coast line, we took an over-
land route towards the head of St. Patrick Bay. Arriving at 7.40 j). m. on the shores of this bay, we
crossed on the new ice to its southern side and ascended the abrupt bluH througii a fleep ravine with steep
rocky sides to the hills above.

Fort Conger was reached at 1.15 a. m. on September 3, the party very tired, lame, and foot-sore.

Relative to the feasibility of a sledge route across the head of St. Patrick Hay, I would state for your
information that the bluffs on either side are too hi^h and rugged to admit of their being used as u crossing
place for sledges. However, a lightly laden sledge could possibly be lowered down the abrui)t sides with
ropes and hauled up the other in the same manner, but this mode of traveling would not only cause great
labor and loss of time but the probable destruction of the sledge. A list of the [iroperty and commissary
stores left at the depot, being in addition to the regular depot, forms Appendix U.

I cannot commend too highly the excellent behavior of the men under my ( harge, who, under trying

circumstances, exhibited nerve, coolness, and a strict observance of discipline which could scarcely have

been expected of those who were unaccustomed to the lurking dangers of the Polar pack.

I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

n. L. Brainark,

Sergeant, Company L, Second Cavalry,
Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Fifth Cavalry, U. S. A,, Acting Sii^nal Officer and Assistant,

Commandiuj^ Lady Franklin Hay Expedition,

Appendix A. — Articles inteml,\l for the depot, -^hich were aedJentally tott from the boat.

2 can openers.

1 minimum thermometer.

2 papers carpet tacks.

I gimlet.

1 tablespoon.

2 fable forks.

too rounds of ammunition.
I can condensed milk.

Appendix B. — List of the property anj commissary stores left at the depot, heiiii; hi addition to the rei;ul,ir depot.

I whale-boat and rudder.

4 oars.

I mast and sail.

1 water-bucket (paper).

2 rubl)er waler-lxittles.
2 knapsacks,

I axe.

1 tin cup.

2 bread bags (Navyl.
I water-breaker

I coffee -jiot.

I tablespoon.

I monkey-wrench.

I signal flag and staff.

1 recruiting flag.

2 (lonnds chocolate.
15 pounds bread.

2 '•^ (xiunds sugar.
I y^ pounds coffee.
li pound butter.
I can corned beef.

Ill

Appendix No. 17. — Sergeant JewelP s meteorological report in connection xvith trip establishing

Depot B.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, September t„ 1881.

Sir: In compliance with your instructions for me to join the boat party under Sergeant D. L. Brainard
(sent out for the purpose of caching provisions, at or as near Cape Beechey as possible, and to take and record
meteorological observations, nature and extent of the ice, and any other physical phenomena worthy of note)
I have the honor to make the following report :

Owing to the new ice, formed during the past few days in Discovery Harbor, it was necessary to convey
the boat and provisions over the ice by means of sledges to the open water, which extended but a short dis-
tance inside of Dutch Island. We got under way about i o. 1 5 a. m., August 3 1 , following the most favorable
water-leads for reaching Distant Cape.

We found no difficulty in making a nearly direct course for about a mile, as the ice was in small packs,
and with no apparent movement. This apathy of the ice did not long continue, as an inward movement
was discovered about 1 1 a. m., the pack bearing down upon the boat from the eastward.

(!'

118

THE LADY FUANKLIN BAY KXPEDITIOX.

Having cleared ourselves from this danger with great difficulty, we took advantage of a largi lead that
opened to the eastward. Hut this was soon closed by the ice coming from the shore. Irom this time until
4.30 p. m., when we rounded Distant Cape, there was a continual movement from all ilirections, and we
were driven over a mile from the shore by the moving ice.

The currents between Dutch Island anil Distant (ape appear to be entirely under local influences, and
apparently governed by no fixed laws, except that at the time of high water, which occurreil between 3 and
4 p. m., they were much stronger than at any other time.

The cause of this diversity is probably on account of the prominent headlands in the vicinity, consisting
of Cape Lieber, .south ; Distant Cape, north, and those projecting from Bellot Island, at the entrance of
Discovery Harbor.

After passing Distant Cape we found an open lead that extended a long distance to the north. With
the exception of new ice, that greatly retardeil our progress, the lead remained open until 8 p. m. At this
time the ice began to move again, and it was ileemed advisable to make a landing on the ice-foot, where we
remained until 9.20 p. m., at which time we again got under way.

The ice-foot began to increase rapidly after we pas.sed St. Patrick Bay, extending, in places, at least
one fourth of a mile from the shore. The currents run from northeast and southwest, parallel with the coast.
From the former with the flood, and the latter with the ebb tide.

In order to make any progress toward the north it was necessary to follow the leads that inclined to-
ward the eastern coast, and at 1 1 p. m. we were at least four miles from the shore. In the mean time the
temperature began to fall, and the new ice to form rapidly, and it became a serious matter as to whether we
could reach the shore through it. We, in consequence, made no more northerly, but bent our entire energies
upon reaching the open water near the western shore, opposite Mount Beaufort.

We arrived at this point at 1 2.30 a. m., and found it impossible to land on account of the ice-foot. Seeing
that there was no hope of landing any farther north, and realizing that, as the northwest wind had increased
to brisk (force 5 to 6 [about 2.5'" per second]), it would be expedient to land as soon as possible, we accord-
ingly made a landing about one mile south of Mount Beaufort at i a. m. In less than half an hour after
we had landed everything on shore, and beached our boat, the ice began to come down in heavy packs,
completely filling the channel with moving ice.

The wind diminished during the early morning, but as the day advanced increased to a gale, with occa-
sional snow and dense cumulo-stratus clouds covering the coast line, so that your instructions relating to
the angular measurements of the adjacent points could not be carried out. As the ice showed no .sign of
breaking up it was decided on the morning of the 2d to leave the boat and return to Fort Conger by land.
At II a. m. I, accompanied by Private Council, made the a.scension of Mount Beaufort, on the summit oj
which mountain we erected a cairn. I was enabled to measure the following angles, viz; Depot B of Lady
Fmnklin Bay Expedition, N. 220° E. ; Cape Lieber, N. 191° E. ; and Cajie Sumner, N. 88" E. The eleva-
tion, as .shown approximately by an aneroid barometer, was 675 teet [206'"] above the sea.

We arrived at the cache at 2.30 p. m., and at 3 p. m. started on our return, arriving at St. Patrick Bay
at 7.30 p. m. Here we found the ice strong enough to allow our crossing on it, and arrived at F'ort Conger
at I a. m. The route taken on our return would be an excellent one for sledging, were it not for the pre-
cipitous cliffs on each side of St. Patrick Bay. These I consider insurmountable for a sledge, and would
recommend the shore-line instead.

You will find inclosed herewith the meteorological observations, which are incomplete owing to the
loss of my thermometers; the minimum having been lost overboard while we were moored to the ice-foot,
and water thermometer broken while taking an observation.

W. S. Jewell,
Sergeant, Signal Corps.

Lieut. A. W. Greely,

Commanding Lady Frank'in Bay Expedition, ■

Smt.. — The rejrular meteorological ol)ser\'ations are omitted here, as they are incorporated in the detailed field ol)servatioiii
elsewhere (Appendix No. 138). — A. W. Grekly, Lieutenant.

1! i

TUE LADY FKANKLIN ItAV EXPEDITION.

119

Appendix No. i8. — Sergeant (iarditier's report of trip lo Oipe Murchison.

\ Fort Comikr, Grinnk.i.i, \,k^i\ Siplem/>fr G, i88i.

Sir; I have the honor to make the following report its obedience to instructions, dated Fort Conger,
September 4, 18S1, directinc; nie to proceed, accompanied by C'lrporul N. Salor, to the south shore of St.
Patrick Uay and examine the "cliffs," also the country between th.U bay and this "post," and report is
to the jtracticability of a route for loaded sledge and party.

Leaving this post at 7.40 a. m., September 5, 1881, accompanied by Corporal Salor, I proceeded to the
northward along the valley between the "hogback "and the mountains nearer the coast. After reaching the
"lakes" I took a northeast course and ascended the mountain close to the shore of St. Patrii k Hay. I he
route to the foot of this mountain would be good traveling for a sledge. Hut it is imj)racticable any farther
on .account of the cliffs bordering the bay being very high and steej). Descending the mou .ain we found
that we were on the south shore of the bay and op|)osite Cape Heaufort.

Up to this time, i p. m., a dense fog had obscured everything from view, anil at times so ilense that
objects ten yards [9"'] away could not be seen distinctly. The fog now rising allowed us to see objects
around us more clearly, and I examined carefully, with the glass, all the north shore of the bay for three-
(juarters of a mile from the mouth, but failed to find any point that would be accessible for a sledge party
to land after crossing the bay on the ice.

On the south shore, and opposite Cape Beaufort, I found a small boat containing two oars and t^o
paddles; boat was twelve feet [4"'] in length and in fair contlition. It was marked with the word " Dis-
covery" on the stern-post. I searched in the immediate neighborhood for records but did not find any_
About half a mile to the southe.ast of the boat and about ten feet [3"'| above high water I found a large
sledge about ten or twelve feet (3 or 4'"] in length and three or four feet [914 or i,2i9'""'| wide; also one
large spirit-lamp, one pickax, and one small smelting ladle; and small piece of lead about one pound in
weight. Everything was in good condition with the exception of being a little weather stained. Here we
also searched for records but found none. The sledge wis marked " H. M. Sledge Disitnrry."

Resuming our route around Cape Murchison, we found good traveling on the ice-foot and lower parts
of the shore. We followed the shore of Robeson Channel ':> Water-course Hay, thence through the valley
from the coal mine to this post, arriving at 5.30 p. m. after an absence of ten hours, and having traveled
about twenty-five miles.

I would respectfully state, as the result of : 'v ohserv.iiions during the trip, that the only practicable
route for a party and sledge traveling from this post to cro:,s St. Patrick Bay, is by way of the valley lead-
ing to the coal mine and Water-course Bay, and thence to ibllow the coast around Cape Murchison, cross-
ing the bay to the outermost point of Cape Beaufort, which is low and much the same in character as Cape
Murchison, and is the only i)oint accessible on the northern shore.

I would respectfully refer you to inclosed map* of the country, and the route by which we traveled.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

H. S. Gardiner,

Sergeant, Signal Corps, U. S, A.
Lieut. A. W. Greely,

First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, U. S. A.,

Commanding International Polar Expedition.

Appendix No. 19. — Sergeant Limi's report on moving Depot A to Cape Murchison.

Fort Conner, Grinnei.l Land, September 10, 1881.

Leaving Fort Conger at 8 a. m., September 7, 188 1, we arrived at the end of the ravine, A (see inclosed
map),* at 10.25 a. m.

The arm of the axle was bent going over the rough ground and the wagon worked badly. Took the
II o'clock observation: Barometer, 29.63 [752.59'""']; thermometer, 21 [—6.1° C.];clouds,i'^„ cumulus; wind,
NW., moderate. B, here we found that spokes in theluibhad broken, and we strapped the wheel. Started

*Map not reproduced; see map of Fort Conger and vicinity.

120

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

again and made next stoppage o" small lake, near Musk-ox Meat on Triangle, C ; time, 1 1 ,45 a. m. Arrived on
beach at Water-course Bay, i p. m.,1), odometer registering 3, riSg revolutions (6.02 miles). Followed the beach
in hopes to get ice-foot, and in doing so discovered wagon, E, near high-water mark. Took off forward
wheels of. newly found wagon and put on our load. Looked at odometer of old wagon; 3,409 revolutions
(6.26 miles). Started again but had to abandon wheels, F, on account of steep hill. Time, 2.30 p. m.
Divided load and proceeded to destination, only stopping to take 3 p. m. observation. Result: Barometer,
29.45 [748.02"""]; thermometer, 19.5° [—6.9° C.]; wind, NW., blowing fresh; foggy and snowing light.
Found sledge, G, at 4.45 p. m.; dropped our loads and searched for the boat, H, which we found at 5.15
p. m. Turned over boat and discovered several cracks in her bottom ; two men can handle her easily.
Followed shore on southern side of St. Patrick Bay up to 'J', where we climbed cliff; arrived on top of
cliff, 7 p. m. Took observation: Barometer, 28.76 [731.00"'"']; thermometer, 21.5 [ — s.8°C.]; thick fog,
but no wind. Kept near edge of mountain in sight of bay and reached tent, K, at 10.25 P- ™' Rested
here awhile and took 11 o'clock p.m. observation: Barometer, 28.36 [720.33"'"']; thermometer, 19 1 —7.2° C.];
dense fog; wind, NW., moderate.

Made cairn, containing a box, letter, and 12 hardbreads, and then started to a ravine which we followed
down toward the creek at the head of St. Patrick Bay, L; it brought us within 1,000 yards [914"'] of the head
of bay. Took the ice from there to almost the place where we climbed the cliff, T, before mentioned. The
ice here growing too thin we followed our old track as near as possible. Took 3 o'clock observation :
Barometer, 29.86 [758.43'""']; thermometei, 20 [— 6.7°C.]; wind, NW.; fog lifted some. Reached sledge
at 5 a. m., September 8, 1881, and erected tent, G. Rested and cooked c ifee, and at 9 a. m. started again
with the sledge. Arrived at Water-course Bay at 12 m., having only stopped on our way to take 1 1 o'cIock
a. m. observation; result: Barometer, 29.83 [75767"'"']; thermometer, 16 [— 8.9°C.J; wind, N., quite fresh.
Here vre stopped long enough to get forward wheels of newly found wagon and abandoned the day before,
F, and brought the same back to its old place, E. We now tried to bring .vagon and sledge both to Fort
Conger, but it proved too much for us, and we started with the sledge and the old wagon on top of it. Took
3 o'clock observation on lake, C; result: Barometer, 29.02 [757.41"'°']; thermometer, 19 [ — 7.2° C.]; wind, N.
moderate; clouds, cumulus. We here tried to get water, but without success; after having dug three holes
in different places, and striking dirt every time, we gave it up. At the head of caflon, near coal mine, we
saw what we supjiosed to be water, and on going there found it to be true. We drank some, this being our
first water that we had since we left camp, and then [roceeded on our journey.

Arrived at Fort Conger 6 p. m. Sledge pulled 1 eavily and cut through light snow all the way.

Respectfully submitted.

David Linn,

Sergeant in diarge.

Appendix No. 20. — Orders to Dr. Pavy for overland jottrncy to Liticohi Bay.

Fort CoNCiER, Grinnei-i, Land, August 29, 1881.

Sir: Accomp.anied by Sergeant George W. Rice, you will proceed northward along Robeson Channel
as far as you deem prudent, with the vi jw of ascert.iininp whether any traces of yeannctte are to be found
to the northward. While absent you nill also note the best route for sledge travel during the coming autumn
and sjjring, and will .ascertain the condition of the depot of 1,000 rations established by Sir George Nares,
on the north side of Lincoln Bay. V'ou will examine carefully all cairns ."iid will bring back with you such
original record"; .is are found, leaving in their stead copies thereof, and also such records of the present
expedition .is are furnished you, as well as a statement of your own trip. Copies of such records will be
ret.nined for my information. At the most northern point reached, you will, from the highest practicable
ground, exai ine most carefully with your telescope all laiul and routes to the northward, that nothing may
escape your notice.

You will be accompanied during one day's march by Sergeants D. C. Ralston and D. Linn, who will
transport one common tent and other cquii)age and supplies, which will be left at your first camping place
for the convenience of further parties traveling along the coast. In going north to St. Patrick Bay you
will take the route to the westward of Mount Cartmel, and on your return will, if your party is in fit condi-

TOE LADY FRANKLIN «AY EXPEDITION.

121

tion, and the weather good, endeavor to ascertain whether Wrangel Bay can be reached from Lincoln Bay
by an interior route. Meteorological observations will be made when practicable at 7 a, m., 3 j). m., and 1 1
p. m., Washington mean time. Your experience in travel within the Arctic circle, as well as your long study
of the proposed work, cause me to trust wholly to your judgment and iliscretion, as to the details of the
journey.

I am, very respectfully yours,

A. W. Greely,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavaliy,
Actin)^ Signal Officer and Assistant, Commandinf^.

Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Paw, U. S. Army.

[Inclosures, two; record ami list of provisions carried by supporting party.
Washington Irving Island (see Appendix No. 7).]

Record a duplicate of tliat deposited on

It;

Appendix No. 21. — Report of Dr. Paxiy* on trip to Lincoln Bay.

Fort Cqnoer, Grinnei.i, Land, September 14, 1881.

Sir: I have the honor to inclose the report of my cerland journey between the dates of the 29th
August and the 8th September.

The 29th August, at 7 p. m., accompanied by Sergeant Rice, we left Fort Conger, Discovery Harbor.
Our baggage .md provision including two haversacks, two blankets, and a shelter tent, was strapped on our
shoulders. At 8 p.m. we caught up widi the party send \sic\ ahead. Following then a northwest diret'tion
(true), at 1.30 a. m. we camped on the top of the cliffs that form the south side of St. Patrick Bay. During
the march, at 10.30 p. m., we met with the party of Lieutenant Lockwood.

At 1 1.30 a. m., August 30, we cooked breakfast. Sending back Sergeants Ralston and Linn with the
empty wagon at i p. m., accompanied by Sergeant Rice, I followed until 4 p. m., at the height of 1,500 feet,
[457'"] in a western direction, the high cliffs of St. Patrick Bay. The walk was very tiresome; at 4 p. m. we

saw a 1 to the north. From 4 p. m. to 5.30 p. m. we descendeil precipetious \sie\ cliffs. From 5.30

J), m. we followed the valley towards the north, finding numerous fresh tracks of musk-o.xen on ihe snow.
From 7 p. m, to 11.30 p. m. we ascended a mountain, over 2,000 feet [610"'] high, bearing southwest (true)
from Mount Buford [Beaufort]. From its sutnmit the view extended to the south [?| over the snowy peaks
of the United States range ; at our feet to the north over a extensive valley.

To the northeast we could see the s'lmimts only of the mountains of Polaris Promentory \sic\, the sea in
that direction being covered by fog. Until 12 p. m. we descended, when we camped, in the expectation
that the fog would raise \sic\ in the morning.

August 31, awoke at 8 a. m. The fog was sti'.i vei/ thick, but at 11 a. m. it raised fjvVJ. At 11.30
a. m. started. Descend \sic\ very steep. At i p. m. reached the valiey leading north, but soutinvest of Cape
Beechey. Walked until 3 p. m. ; saw numerous traces of musk-oxen and foxes. Weather beautyful [v/VJ,
At 3 p. m. ascended a small hill and halted. Left there the first cache for the returning journey. When
building a small cairn for provisions saw nine musk-oxen. Rice went in persuit \sic\\ fired two .shots with
the revolver without success. From this point ascended several hills and walking over several hills in a
northeast direction (true).

Arrived at the lake, 1 1.30 p. m., when, breaking the ice for water, Rice saw a stnall fish six or eight inches
[about 178"""] long. From the lake ve reached the coast and followed it on the ice-foot to a point south
of the black cliffs. P'inding it impossible to pa.ss, on account of the absence of ice-foot and the almost jjcrpen-
dicular cliffs, we returned to a j)oint south, where, at 1.30 a. m., September i, we struck ...imp. September i,
at 11.30, broke camti, climbed by a very steep ravine on the plateau of a mountain, i.^oo feet [457"'];
followed its as(;eniiing grade in a northward direction. Wind blowing a strong gale, witii drifting snow.

* All the re|x>rts of Dr. Pavy, for ovious reasons, have been reproduced literatim. Ilracketed parts are interpolations.—
A. W. G. I Omission in original. -A. VA Ci.

r; '■

I !■ >■ !»

''; 1 1

122

THE LADY FKA^^aiIN BAY EXPEDITION.

This days walk very disagreeable. Reached Wrangell Bay 12 p. m. Struck camp close to water-course, 200
feet [6i'"| above the level the sea. Many traces of musk-oxen and seal. September 2, broke camp at 11
a. m. ; weather very fine; followed the west and north shore of the bay on the ice-foot. Took the coast
northward from the ice foot, which in places is formed by very heavy ice. Here and there pools of fresh
witer prove that this ice has not melted this year. Have seen very few pieces th u I would call paleochris-
tique [paleocrystic] ; none at all in the straits. The ice was in motion under the influence of the tide.

Reached Cape Frederick at 9 p. m. Here the pressure of the ice upon the coast is great. At the
head of the bay found traces of coal. Here crossed on the ice to the northeast shore ; ascended its very
steep grade. Saw a lake about a mile and a half in extend f ^/V] ; mistook it for a bay, but was obliged to
ascend the hill once more. Walked then towards a bold cape, that I take to be Cape Constitution. Then
returning to the southwest, were we had left our sacks, followed the coast, and found, at 10 a. m., August 3,
the depot of 1,000 rations left by Sir George Nares in 1875. August 3, at i p. m., put up tent. We have
walked 22 hours, on a few bisquits \sif] and a cup of chocolade [sic]. Rice complained of his feet paining
him considerable. At our fartherst north I have seen no traces of the yeanette. expedition.

From where I write now, 1,000 feet [303'"] above the level of the sea, with an horizon as clear as it can be
possible to find, I can follow the line of the Greenland coast to the northeast from Cape Brevoort to Cape
Bryant; then in indentation, and another point that I take to be the land of Cape May. Further north two
other spots of land, seperated \sk\ by two lines of horizon and of different shade, can be clearly seen. The
fartherst of these I believe to be Beumo:it [Beaumont] Island, the other, more to the east, Cape Brittania
[Britannia], or Stevenson [Stephenson] Island.

To the south, on the Grinnell Land coast. Cape Frederick the Seventh barr \sic\ all view of land. On
the Greenland coast I can see as far as Kennedy Channel. To the east the ice is closely packed on the coast.
To the north the sea is, as far as the view extends, as a white sheet, dark only in few places by pools of
vater. On the Grinnell Land side, from south of Cape Frederick the Seventh as far north as I can see, there
i;i a broad channel of open water extending at my feet, about 2 miles from the coast. September 4, at 8 a. m.,
called Rice. He suffers extremely of his swollen feet ; can scarcely put on his boots. We descend from the
summit of the hill to the depot of provisions, placed about 75 feet [23"'] above the level of the sea. The
weather is beautifull \sic\.

Worked all day in opening and closing barrels. Difficult work for men that are not coopers. Of the
provisions, as I have before stated to you, 1,200 pounds of canned meat are still good. All the bread is
spoiled; the chocolade [w], stearine, and rum are good; part of the tea, potatoes, and tobacco is spoiled.

At 6 p. m. broke camp. One mile from camp. Rice, with a revolver, killed a white hare. I added its
weight to my own. The skin and skeleton is \sic\ worth its earring \su\. We crossed the bay on the ice, 2
miles from its head. Followed the same route as the clay before, and after 16 hours of walk struck Wrangel
Bay at lo a. m., September 5. Rice is exceedingly tired. Broke camp at 6 p. m., and following again our
old track in the fog, on top of the plateau, we reached the most northeasterly lake of Beechey Valley, 3 p. m.,
September 6. Rice is exhausted; cannot eat. Left knee consider.ible swollen as well as both wrists. The
pulse beat 112. He told me that several times he has been affected with accute rheumatism. I admire his
endurence [j/r] and pluck. It would be difficult to find a better man to travel with. At 7 p. m. woke up
Rice. Started, 9 p. m. ; he can scarcely walk.

At 9 a. m., September 7, arrived at our first depot on the journey. Put up tent. Ate roast-beef and
chocolade [«Vj; but Rice having no appetite. His articulation \sic\ seems t«. be swollen. Tht situation is
critical. He wants me to leave him there and return to Fort Conger for a relief p.irty, but be "ore I leave
him we must reach the other side r ! St. Patrick B.iy. It is impossible of thinl;ing of leaving him here.

At 8 o'clock, September 8, broke camp ; follow slowly the valley to the west of Mount Buford [Beaufort].
Ascend the mountain, on top of which we had cam])e(l 3 nth August. Partly lost our way in the fog, and came
down in St. Patrick B.ay VjiUey, following a cliff formed by rock slide, which I think I would be afraid now to
climb. The energy .and endurence \sh\ of Rice is \su\ wonderful. At 9 p. m. we arrived in the v.illey of the
end of St. Patrick Bay. I'ut up the tent. Left Rice at 10 p. m., and reached Fort Conger at 4 a. m.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant.

Octave Pavy,
Acting Aishtant Surgfotiy U, S. Army.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

123

Lists brought from Lincoln Bay,

(No. 5.)

This cask contains :
Chocolate: 2 parcels; cakes marked in ^ -pound squares ; 5

squares = 1 man for 20 tlays.
Sugar for chocolate : 1 2 parcels ; each parcel = i man for 20

days.
Tea and sugar {mixed): 12 parcels; each parcel = i man for

20 days.
Tobacct : 4 parcels ; each parcel contains ^ -pound packets; I

packet = I man 8 days.
Salt : 1 2 parcels ; each parcel = I man for 20 days.
Pepper : 12 parcels; each parcel = i man for 20 days.
Potatoes : 1 2 parcels ; each parcel = I man for 20 days.

Onion pcruider: 4 Imttlcs of y^ pound each; yi ounce = i

man for 20 days.
Matches: 4 Ixjxes, each box containing ainut 75 matches.
Sparc wick : 10 feet.

Stearine : 4 jjarcels, each cake divided into j^ -pound S(|uares.
12 men, 2j( jmunds := allowance for I day.
8 men, i yi pounds = allowance for i day.
2 men, i |x>und =: .lUowance for I day.
Tin opener.

In the kilderkin will be found 22^ pounds of stearine in
i^-ix)und packets.

G. S. N. [f;jX3R(;E S. Nares], July 28, 1875.

1,000 Ramons Dei'ot.

(A layer of bread-bag
• betweeneveryi7 '/^pounibi,
or I man for 20 days.)

Preserved meat, 1,375 pounds:
375 |iounds, in lieu of bacon.
37 cases and 4 tins in No. 5 cask.
Biscuit, 875 pounds :

375 pounds in No. 12 cask ; not divided.
35 pounds in No. 7 cask.
87 li pounds in No. 4 cask.
87 ^ pounds in No. I o cask.
87^ IK)undsinNo. iicask.
^TA IMunds in No. 8 cask.
60 i)ounds in No. 3 cask ; not divided.
35 pounds in No. I cask ; divided.
20 pounds in No. 13 cask; not divided.
Preserved potatoes, 1 25 pounds :

30 ])ounds in No. 6 cask. 1 In packets of 2% pounds each,
30 imuiids in No. 5 cask. ' or one man for 20 days.
50 pounds in metal cases; 15 pounds in metal case.
Kum, 23^ gallons, in cask :

8 g.allons, in lieu of spirits of wine and stearine.
Chocolate, 62 J^ pounds:

15 pounds in No. 6 cask, 15 pounds in No. 5 cask, 32^
pounds in No. 3 cask; divided into % pound squares,
5 s<iuares being I man for 20 days.
Sugar for chocolate, 31 j^ pounds :

7^ ]K)unds in No. 6 cask ; 7 !^ pounds in No. 5 cask ; lb%
pounds in No. 2 cask.
Tea, islg pounds; Sugar, 47 pounds; mixed:

15 |x>unds in No. 5 cask; 15 pounds in No. 6 cask; 32
pounds 5 ounces in No. 2 cask.
Stearine, 165 pounds;

60 pounds in No. 5 cask, 60 pounds in No. 6 cask ; divided
into ^ -pound squares.

22yi pounds in No. 7 cask, 22|^ pounds in No. I cask;

in packets of i >^ pounds each, or 8 men for i day.
12 men, allowance for I day = 2% pounds.
8 men, .illowance for i day = lyi pounds.
2 men, allowance for i day= i [xaund.
Tobacco, 31 % pounds :

TYi in No. 5 ca.sk, 7}^ in No. 6 cask, 16^ in No. 2 cask ;

in packets of '4' -pound each.
% IMHind = 8 men for i day.
Salts, 1\% :

I [xiund 14 ounces in No. 5 cask, l pound 14 ounces in
No. 6 cask; in packets, i man 20 days; remainder in
No. 2 cask.

/V/A'-. 3r,i :

34 pound in No. 5 cask, J pound in No. 6 cask ; in packets,
I man for 20 days ; remainder in No. 2 cask.
Onion poivder, 16 bottles :

4 l)ottles in No. 5 cask, 4 bottles in No. 6 cask, 8 1 )ttles
in No. 2 cask; each bottle J^ pound, 2'/^ ounces = i
man 20 days.
Ciirry paste, I jar of 4^ )X)Unds :

\% ounces = l man for 20 days.
Matches, lo boxe: :

4 boxes in N). 5 cask ; 4 lioxes in No. 6 cask ; 2 boxes in
No. 2 cask.
Spare wick, 30 feet :

10 feet in No. 5 cask; 10 feet in No. 6 cask ; 10 feet in
No. 2 cask.
Tin opener in No. 2 cask.

G. S. N. [George S. Nares], August 30.

i\ '■ H

124

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION,

Appendix No. 22. — Report of Lieutenant I^ckivood on journey to the Belloivs.

Fort (Jonoer, Lady Franklin Bay, C'iRinnei.i, Land, Si-ptemher 19, 1881.

Sir : I have the honor to n nder the following report of my expedition to " The Bellows," made in pur-
suance to your instructions of t.ie 9th instant.

Accompanied by Sergeant Gardiner and the Eskimo Frederick, I left here at ic o'clock a. m., Sep-
tember 1 1, with a dog sledge and oight dogs.

Weight of load as follows : •

Pounds.

Provisions (four days for three men) 51

Dog food 31

Two sleeping-hags (sheepskin, 34, and dogskin, 16) 50

Shotgun, pistol, and ammunition, &c., spirits wine, hatchet, and rubber blanket 50

Total 182

The ice of Discovery Harbor afforded a good straight route, the ■"•w being light and the hummocks
few. We reached French Cape at 12.30 and the west side of the harbor at 1.40. Here, however, we were
stopped by a sheet of water extending along the shore for several hundred yards, which seemed to cover a
sheet of ice a few feet below the surface, doubtless due to the action of the tides. After some reconnoitering

we got started again at * and turning to the north reached shore, which we traveled along over a very

poor route till we reached Bleak Cape at 2.50. Near the sliore I noticed two pieces of drift-wood which I
placed on a rock till my return.

Bleak Cape is a long, low point stretching out into the valley known as " The Bellows," and seems to
be formed from the debris from a very high, rocky, and steep cliff, which rises abruptly and forms with the
" Knife edge," on the west side, the termination of the valley and also the two principal landmarks of thi.s
section of country. At Bleak Cape one sees — looking north or rather to the west of it — a wide valley, prob-
ably two or three miles wide and quite level, walhd in by high and steep cliffs and mountains ; its apparent
termination is probably seventeen miles distant and bears north 34° west (true), according to the reading I
took with a prismatic compass,

I started up the east side, following the bed of a small water-course. The traveling was difficult on
account of the number of small stones and the want of snow. Along this water-course, and about one
hour's travel, or 2^ miles from the cape, I found a piece of drift-wood, apparently a knotty sjjccies of pine,
firmly frozen in the sand; it was about 8 inches [203"""] in diameter and 3 feet [914"""] long.

After several ineffectual efforts to get it up by means of a knife and hatchet I left it till iny return, not
wishing to add to the weight of the sledge. Here one of the dogs became sick and unable to travel and
was left behind. Shortly after this I crossed a low, narrow ridge and found myself in the bed of another
creek, one that runs the whole length of the valley. After following it up some distance we camped, at 6 p.
m., just below a mass of jutting rocks known on the English map as the " Devil's Head."

Monday, September 12. — We got up at 7 a. m. and started at 9; traveling still difficult. In fact, except
on the ice of the bay, we walked during the entire trip, frequently having to help the dogs. At 11 o'clock
I stopped, intending to leave the sledge and push on without it; but finding some good snow ahead, about the
same time, we continued on till 12.30, after a half hour's rest, and there turned to the right and went to the
creek a little way off. We cut through the ice, about 8 inches [203"""] thick, and got water, in so doing break-
ing the hatchet handle. After a slight lunch, thinking I could now walk to the end of the valley and back
without the sledge, Sergeant Gardiner and I started at 2.30 p. m. We reached the " apparent end," before
referred to, at 3.45, and took a compass sight back to Bleak Cape, which was quite distinct. Ahead another
point shut in the valley some distance off ; its bearing was north 2j^° west (true). At 4 we started and
reached the point referred to at 5. Here the trend of the valley is still more to the west, the next "cape"
bearing North 57^2° west. Reaching this, the most distant point bore north 30° west, which we reached
about 6 o'clock, and at 6.25 were about a mile distant from a point where the valley assumes the dimensions
of a narrow gorge or caiion. The valley becomes rapidly narrower from the point referred to as the "apparent
enil." At our farthest it was but a few hundred yards wide, though just below it widened out into a plain
a mile or more across. At other places I judged it to be from )^Xo y^ mile across. Sergeant Gardiner

* Omission in original. — A. \V. G.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITIJN.

125

had difficulty in keeping up with me on account of his knee, and I judged it best to return. Accordingly
we started back and reached camp at lo p.m. Through the gap at the end of the valley I could see just
one high peak covered with snow from our farthest up the stream.

September 13. — We arose at 7.30 and were oflfac 9, on our return. We took a more direct course than
when coming up by following the main creek to a great extent; this creek keeps rather to the west side
of the valley. Between Devil's Head and Bleak Cape I noticed a good deal of what seemed to be a very
soft bituminous coal, a specimen of which I brought back with me. This coal had evidently been washed
down the creek, but from where I could not ascertain. We reached Bleak Cape at 2 p. ni. Though the
sledge was badly worn, and the road ahead would make it worse, still I determined to go over to the
canon to the southwest to get some of the musk-ox meat left there by yourself. We were not successful in
finding it, and Sergeant Gardiner being unable to keep up with the sledge, and on oth"r accounts, I left this
part of my orders, and the bringing back of the drift-wood, till another day, and turned towards home,
starting from the shore-ice at 3.45 and reaching the station without event at 8.15 p. m.

The only game seen during the trip was two musk-oxen in the opening near the head of the valley. I
approached them quite close but did not attempt to kill them. The only tracks noticed were those made by
these animals and some wolf or fox tracks farther up.

in the accompanying itinerary I have used the English map as far as it goes. Having no means of
measuring distances traveled I have allowed a certain rate per hour, based on the time occupied in returning,
in estimating the length of the valley.

Hours of Travel, Stops, &'c.

September ri. — 10 a. m., started ; 1 1 a. m., opposite Musk-ox Kiiy. 12.30 p. m., passed French Cape. I p. m., stopped 10 minutes
to make skclcli. 1.40 p. m., met with water; slopped. 2.10 p. m., fairly started on land again. 2.50 p. m., I31eak
Cape ; stopped 10 minutes. 4 p. m., met with drift-wood ; dog sick ; slopped 10 minutes. 6 p. ni., arrived at camp.
81'-lh=7h.

September 12. — 7.10 a. m., got up. 9 a. m., started. 1 1 a. m., stopped for lunch, &c., 55 minutes. 12.30 p. m., stopped at creek.

3h30"._55n>=2h35'n.

2.25 p. m., started on without sledge. 3 p. m., stopped 8 minutes. 3.45 p. m., reached " apparent end " of Bellows ; slopped
12 minutes. 5.05 p. m.,stopi)ed 5 minutes. 6. 10 p. m., stopped j minutes. 6.25 p. m., stopped at farthest till 6.30 p. m.
3^ hours, 10 ]). m., reached camp; no slops.
September 13. — 7.30 a. m., got up. 9 a. m., started on return. 2 \>. m,, reached Bleak Cape; stopped 5 minutes. 3 p. m., near
Bellot Harlmr; stopped 15 minutes. 3.45 p. m., on ice some little way from land. 8.15 p. m., reached station,
iih 15m — 20'" =10'' 55"".
Going out, 13'' 7'" ; coming back, 14'' 25"'.

1 5r i|

Readings of Thermometer and Barometer.

Date.

Hour of day.

Thermometer.

Barometer.

Fa/ir.

Inches.

mm.

Sept. II...

3. 00 p. m.

16.2

- 8.8

29-39

746. 49

7.00 p. m.

•35

10.3

29-36

745- 73

12.00 p. m.

17.0

- 8.3

29.40

746- 75

Sept. 12...

7. 10 a. m.

20.0

-6.7

29.47

748. 52

11.00 a. m.

22.

- S-6

29.38

746. 24

I. 20 p. m.

19.8

- 6.8

29.36

745- 73

3. 00 p. m.

21.

— 6. I

29.32

744-71

6. 25 p. m.

9.0

-12.8

29.11

739- 38

10. 30 p. m.

4.0

-15.6

29.44

747- 76

Sept. 13*..

7. 30 a. m.

-IS- 8

29- S5

750- 56

II. 15 a. m.

8.5

->3-«

29-52

749- 79

3-45 pm.

II.

-II. 7

29.80

756.91

r.l

* Minimum thermometer during the night, -\- 1° [ — 17.2° C.].

Very respectfully, your obedient .servant,

J. B. LocKwoon,

Second Lieutenant, Twenty-third Infantry, A. S. 0.

Lieut. A. W. Gr.EEi.v,

Fifth Cavalry, Acting Signal Officer, and Assistant to the Chief Signal Officer, Commanding.

I f

J I

i I

IM '

1 26 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Appendix No. 23. — Orders to Dr. Pavy on exploring Archer Fiord.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, September 14, 1881.

Sir: You will leave September 11;, weather permitting, for a sledge journey southward through Archer
Fiord to Beatrix Ray, thence overland to the westward as far as practicable. You will take with you Private
W. Whisler, Eskimo Jens Edward, two dog sledges and sixteen dogs, with six days' rations. The object of
your journey is to determine, if possible, the existence or non-existence of the sea or other water to the west-
ward or southward of Mount Neville. It seems to me quite probable that such water exists at no great
distance. Lieutenant Archer, who, viewing the country from an elevation of 3,800 feet [i 1 58™], writing on this
point, says that "no single hill or mountain was visible at any great distance to the westward, while mountain
ranges extended northward from bearings 70° N. and southward from 72° S." Sir Edward Belcher found
islands about 300 miles to the south-southwestward of that point. Lieutenant Aldrich, in 85° 33' W., found
that the coast of Grinnell Land trended south as far as could be seen. These facts, in connection with Sir
J. I). Hooker's discovery that "the vegetation of this meridian of the polar area is entirely Greenlandic,
showing no more relation than does Greenland itself to the floras of the American Polar islands to the west-
ward of it," argue a land, and to the westward especially, of limited extent.

During the journey you will keep as complete a sledge journal as practicable, and will make a detailed
report within a reasonable time after your return. I inclose a chart of the country, traced from Lieutenant
Archer's map, and such notes in connection with his journey as may be useful to you. You will carefully
examine Hillock and Simmonds Bay depots on your westward trip, as on their contents may perhaps depend
the safety of your party. A correct list will be made of all articles found in good condition and of all used
by you. At your farthest a cairn should be erected, in which will be placed a record to be furnished you,
with such additions as you may deem proper. Similar records will be left at the cairn at Record Point, with
a copy of Lieutenant Archer's record, the original being brought back with you.

As far as Beatrix Bay, travel will not be sacrificed to observations, as journeys thus far made show the
correctness of Lieutenant Archer's map. Beyond this point as many observations will be taken as possible
of bearings of prominent points, of courses traveled, &c. Observations will be made when possible at 7, 1 1,
and 3 a. m. and p. m., Washington mean time, of barometer, thermometer, wind and v/eather. Near your
farthest you will, if the weather is fair, ascend the most prominent hill in order to examine carefully all
points beyond, the bearings of which should be most carefully determined. All points of prominence
should be given temporary names only.
I am, most respectfully yours,

A. W. Greelv,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A, S. O. and Assistant.

Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Pavy, U. S. Army.

(Two inclosures.) .

Appendix No. 24. — Report of Dr. Pavy on attempted trips dozen Archer Fiord.

Fort Concjer, Grinnell Land, Lady Franklin Bay, September 2^, i88i.

Sir : Having received orders to proceed to the southeast extremity of Archer's Fiord, the 15th of Septem-
ber, at 9.35 a. m., I combine by Private William Whisler and the Greenlander Jens Edward, with two sledges
and sixteen dogs, I left Fort Conger.

The ice being very good and the snow hard, at 1 1.15 a. m. we passed Musk-ox Bay, arriving at 1.30 p.
m. at the southwest extremity of Bellot Harbor, where you had previously left a small depot. After lunch-
ing I took the provision and travelled overland for an hour, reaching the ice of Archer Fiord at 3 p. m.
Tlie land that we crossed is low, not rising above an altitude from 30 to 35 feet [9"' to n'"]. Traces of
wolfs [sif] were seen, The travelling would have been good but for the ground being barely covered with
snow in many places. As soon as we reached the ice, open water could be seen in the middle of the liord.

[ then followed the coast as far as the last point north of Stone Cape; but the ice being to |«V] thin for
the weight of the sledges, at the suggestion of the Eskimo Jens, we halted (3.30 p. m.j, and advanced abouL

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

127

200 yards [ 183'"] to sound. In places, at the first tocke, the tocke went throug'i. This ice, that c^uld scarcely
bear the weight of a man, and certainly not to be sledged, extended about 401.' or 5c j yards [366'" or 457'"!,
getting thinner until it ended in open water, extending from the middle of the fiord to the foot ol Stony Cape.
During the time that we were examining the state of the ice I had sent Private Whisler to the shore to hunt
for the provisions left there by the English expedition, i875-'76.

Leaving then the two sledges on the edge of the old ice, we proceeded towards Stony Cape, over a
very broken and rough ice-foot, being, in places, ol)liged to take the side of the hill. From the Cape, at the
elevation of about 400 feet [122'"], I could see open water extending northeast as far as the view could reach.
To the east the water in the fiord was entirely free of ice. On the west coast, where I was standing, the ice
in the bay between Cape Clear and Stony Cape was solid. From the top of Stony Cape I could see that
from its base to Kepples Head the ice described an arc of circle, having about the middle of Miller Island
for centre. It being impossible to pass the cape we returned to the sledges, and at one-fourth of a mile
from tlie unsafe ice I struck camp at 6.15 p.m.; the thermometer adjusted 20° [— 6.7°C.] above. .Vfter
cooking supper and feeding the dogs their allowance of walrus meat, we retired for the night in our dog-skin
sleeping-bags (9 p ni.).

September 16, we awoke at o a. m., having passed a very comfortable night. The minimum temper-
ature had been 10° [ — 12.2° C.]; .".nd at the time (6 a. m.) was 12° |— 11.1° C.J outside, and 40° f-f 4.4° C.j
inside of the tent. After breakfast 1 made two caches among the rocks of the coast, above the ice foot, one
at the place where we had found the depot of the English expedition and another about one-fourth of mile
north.

At 9 a. m. our sledges were running homeward, reaching at 1 1 a. m. the place where the previous day
we had taken lunch.

Following your instructions, I then proceeded with one sledge, overland, to the spot where musk-oxen
had been killed. Loav.jd four hind (juarters, and at 1.40 p. m. reached the ice again, ^.topping twenty min-
utes to cook and eat dinner; then resuming our travel, we reached Fort Conger at 5 p. m.

OCTA . '.VV,

Acting Assistant Surgeon, U. S. Army,
First Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Fifth Cavalry^ U. S. A., A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.

i vk

Appendix No. 25.-

-Report of Lieutenant Lockwood on sledge journey to Depot B near Cape
Dccchcy.

Fort Conner, Grinnell Land, September 28, 1881.

Sir : I have the honor to render the following report of operations, in pursuance to your instructions of
the 24th instant, setting forth marches, &:c., as recorded in my journal, for the sake of greater brevity and
clearness.

September 24. — At 9.18 a. m., left station with English 8-man sledge, drawn by Sergeant Ralston and
Privates Biederbick, Ellis, Frederick, and myself. Weight of sledge, 126 pounds; weight of load, 20 1^^
pounds; consisting of four days' rations (51^ pounds); Sergeant Rice's photographic ai)paralus (40
pounds), &c. At 10 a. m. passed Dutch Cape, At 11.15 reached ice foot about middle of blutf.

At 11.47 reached cache of provisions near Distant Cape, consisting of four bags hard bread, one can
pemmican, one can alcohol, one ax, and one ice-chisel, weighing 386 pounds total. Stopped eight minutes
and started again, stopping again shortly aflcrwaids about fifteen minutes to rearrange load, the ice-foot
along here being very narrow and the way difficult, necessitating the cutting down of some masses of ice and
carrying the sledge boilily over others and over masses of rock which obstructed the route.

At 1.55 p. m. carried first sledge and then load over a mass of rocks, about one hundred yards [91'"], in
view of Water-course Bay. Stopped forty-two minutes for lunch.

At 4 p. m. stopped fifteen minutes by English wagon at Water-course Bay. The route since lunch was
much easier, though being constantly (jn ami off the ice-foot made a good deal of hard work.

!''

'S'

mnmmmmtm'mt^

128

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

At s p. m. reached Point of Rocks, from which consideriiblu stretch of coast to the north can be seen ;
should ciiU it the first cape beyond Water-course Hay.

\t 5.55 p. ni. reached tent at Cape Murchison, depot A, and stopped for the night. I found r ,leep-
ing-bag here (though with a hole in the foot) and five blankets. Spent a tolerably comfortab: 'i(^t,
though the lamp was unsatisfactory, catching fire below as soon as the metal became heated, rende; ',' the
boiling of chocolate difficult, and also the thawing out of beans ^nd drying inything in the wa^ of t othes
almost impossible. The weather during the day was fine; the farther side of the straits (juite dis'! t. I
saw great quantities of ice moving south all along the coast, and got two or three glimpses of opo.. vater.

Siflrm/ier 25. — At «.2o a. m., got u[); thermometer, — 9.5° [— 23.1° C.J ; mi.imum durii', night,
-i4.s°[--'5-8''C.].

At 7.35 a. m. resumed :oui ey along coast to the northeas^ Traveling good. At 8.45 a. m. left saw
near farther sid' r.f St. ! ^. k B. v. Slopp'l three m lUtcs.

.1 f;..5 a. :.;. f.'.vhvi caciie v)f provisions beyond St. Patrick Bay. E.xchanged a bag of hard bread
for a sleeping-bag ■-M.t.Ti!, £i;c;i' ; stopped eleven minutes.

.\t 10.45 ... m. i '. . a' ii!;i"e?i minutes to catch some shrimps in the water about middle of bold range
of hills forming a kinii of cape

•Vt 12.35 P- •"• stopped thirteen minutes in a bay south of two promontories, the north one of which
is Cape Heechey.

At I p. m. crossed head of bay ; stopped about ten minutes before doing so while I hunted a crossing ;
this bay is much encumbered with great num!)ers of floe-bergs and ridges of snow and ice, making traveling
very ilitficult and the route anything but direci

At 2.55 p. m., at depot J5, an A tent pitched on a slight rise, about 100 yards [qi"*] from tide-water.
Here we deposited the provisions, ax, &c. The whale-boat is about 30 yards [27'"] from the ten'. — as far as could
be seen, in good order and condition, turned bottom up. The seal lies underneath, buried in a low-drift.
The coast traveled along to-ilay was lined with great nuniDers of floe-bergs, some of them 30 feet [9"'] or more
high and as many wide. They had evidently been forced ashore by the immense pressure of the ice-pack
in the straits. The ice and snow along the shore furnished a good route, except as interfered with to some
extent by the rise and fall of the tide. We kept the coast except when crossing St. Patrick Bay, and a
slight indentation, this on the north side of the last cache of provisions and the bay alluded to, which the
men named Sunday Bay I got a glimpse of open water once during the day — ibout the neighborhood of
St. Patrick Bay — but th^j land on the farther side of the straits was hid from view by masses of clouds or
mist extending upward 10 or 15 degrees, and which I took to indicate the presence of open water in that
direction. The sun was particularly beautiful, exhibiting almost all the phenomena peculiar to his appear-
ance in these regions. As this was equally seen by yourself from the station, I shall not further allude to it.
Spent the night at Depot B; having a good sleeping-bag and six blankets beside a rubber blanket and spare
tent, which we laid on the ground, the party slept more comfortably.

September 26. — At 8.05 a. m. started back to last cache for provisions there, taking only empty sledge.
At 9.57 a. m. stopped to rest eleven minutes. At 11. 17 a. m. reached cache. Stopped thirty-one minutes,
and started on return, with 'oad weighing 483 pounds. At 1.25 p. m. rested fifteen minutes.

At 4.1 7 p. m. reached depot. Found it pretcy hard work even pulling the empty sledge — comparatively
speaking. At about 5 p. m. Sergeant Rice joined us at the depot, having brought some bags of pemmican
from the station. There not being room in the tent he and the Eskimo Jens slept in their sleeping-bags by
the boat.

September 27. — Sergeant Rice left on return about 6 a. m. ; his dogs disturbed the seal under the whale-
boat during the night, but only slightly.

At 7.50 a. m. started back on return to station. At 10.20 a. ni. rested fifteen minutes at old cache.
.\t II a. m. reached place where saw was left. Rested five minutes; then, leaving Private Biederbick to
continue on to depot A, between two and three miles, with the sledge antl i)repare some lunch, I started up
St. Patrick Bay with the rest of the party to get a specimen of the drift-wood at its head, walking very fast.

At II. 53 a. m. passed inner cape on west side of the bay.

At 12,15 p. m, reached tide water. The tree lies at the present tide level, a short distance to the west of
this point and about fifty yards [46"'] from foot of hill. I was misled by one of the party, who had been to the
place, and taken some distance beyond it, so that it was not till 12.43 p. m. that we reached the tree. The

\ 1

TDB LADY FKANKLIX BAY EXPEDITION.

129

tree, a section of which I have brought back with me, is ajjout tliirty feet [9"'] long, and in apjjoarance does not
vary materially from the specimen now before you. Its smaller end measured 661^ centimeters in circum-
ference. The men there before me had cut off a portion of the larger end. The section was taken off just
above the marks of the ax. The tree lay half embedded in ice / snow. It was carried, beyond all doubt,
to its present position by the currents and tides. There were 1,0 inches.

At 1.38 p. m. started back with the log. At 3.20 p. m. re 1,1 the sledge at depot A. Here we rested
and took something to eat.

At 4 p. m. left depot A with sledge and party. At 6.37 p. m. left ice-foot at Distant Cape. At 7.50
p. m. reached Dutch Island. At 8.34 p. m. reached the station and end of journey.

I found the passage round Distant Cape much more difficult than on the 24th, our outward tracks
being carried away by the water in many places. It was necessary to raise, lower, and carry the sledge in
many places. The day was overcast — snowing slightly at the start.

The articles taken to depot 13, besides those enumerated already (which were found at Distant Cape),
are three cans pemmican, one can potatoes, one can alcohol, one box chocolate, one bag pemmican, and
one sleeping-bag; also an a\ and ice-chisel.

I sent back to station, by Sergeant Rice, from depot B, two haversacks and one small iron alcohol stove
and left there remains of ratio* . " mrty, /. <•., about 10 pounds hard bread and about 10 pounds of lime-
juice pemmican. We consum*.:! t\< '.larts alcohol out of one of the cans, and about quarter-pound butter,
half-pound coftee, and half-) -.nd ■ ilate — remains ol rations of Sergeant Hrainard's party.

At depot A we used .!.o iVj piiits alcohol, one can chocolate, one pound hard bread, and opened
one can corned beef but ; v. rioi se it.

. Very respectfully, y. i obedient servant,

J. B. LOCKWOOD,

"ccond Lieutenant, Twenty-third Infantiy, A. S. O., in command of Party,

Lieut. A. W. Oreki.y,

Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant, Commanding.

■i I

!■ I!

Appendix No. 26. — Report 0/ Sergeant Rice on sledge journey to Depot B, near Cape Beechcy.

Fort Conger, I/Ady Franklin Bay, Grinnell Lanp, September 27, 1881.
Sir : I have tlie honor to report that, in accordance with your instructions, I left the station at 8 a. m.,
September 26, to convey ■^45 pounds pemmican and 20 cans extract of beef to depot B, near Cape
Beechey. I was accompanied by the Eskimo Jens, with team of ten dogs and sledge; Private C. B. Henry
assisted as far as Water-course Bay. Reached Cape Murchison at 12.30 p. m., and were compelled to
remain until 1.15 p. m. for tide, which had overflowed ice-foot, to subside and allow us to pass. After
leaving Cape Murchison we traveled without interruption until 5 p. m., when we arrived at our destination.
Found Lieutenant Lockwood and party in camp at the depot, and learned that they had just arrived
with the load of provisions that had been cached at St. Patrick Bay by Sergeant Brainard and party. Jens
and I were compelled to spend the night in sleeping-bags without the tent, owing to its crowtled state.

Depositing the pemmican and extract of beef, we started at 5.30 a. m., September 27, to return.
Reached depot A, Cape Murchison, at 8.30 a. m., to breakfast. Resumed our journey, and arrived home
at station at i p. m.

■ Geo. W. Rice,

Sergeant, Signal Corps, U. j. A.
Lieut. A. W. Greely,

Commanding International Polar Expedition.

P. S. — The following articles were, at request of Lieutenant Lockwood, brought back from depot B:
I boat-stove, i monkey-wrench, 2 knapsacks.
H. Mis. 393 ^9

\ '

130

Trii: LADY FUAXKIilN BAY FAPKOITION.

, I

1 )ati

Diir.

ISaiimie
liicha.

cr.
mm.

Thermometer.
/•ahr. C.

Remarks.

1 88

Sept.

■S

p. m.

2<). 63

752. .w

-ss

— 20.8

p. III.

29,62

752- 33

—8

—22.2

Sept.

a. III.

29.70

754- 37

-6

— 21. 1

Minimum temperature iliirinn
lli^;htl)f24tll, — 14.5[— 25.S°6'.].

a. 111.

29. 63

752.59

— 17.2

p. III.

29. 62

752- 3.i

-19.4

Sept.

2(>

a. III.

29. 62

752.33

-4

— 20.0

Minimum temperature during
iiij,'litoi'2Slli, II [— 23.9°C.].

1 1

a. ni.

29. 68

753- «f'

Tliermonicter left at Mount Beau-
fort.

]i. ni.

29. 63

752. 59

p. 111.

29.60

75'. 83

-3

—19.4

Lowest temperature during clay,

—9 [— 22.8°6'.]

Sept.

a. 111.

29- 55

750. 56

—17.8

Minimum temperature during

a. 111.

29.50

749- 29

night of 26th, —5 [— 20,6°('.].

p. 111.

29.48

748. 78

AppEITDIX No. 27. — Orders to Dr. Pavy to proceed to Cape Joseph Henry.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, Septemlier 29, 1881.

Sir: You will prepare for a sledj^e journey to Cape Joseph Henry, leaving, weather permitting, at 8 a. m.
September 30. You will be accomiianied by Private Whisler and Jens Edward, and will take two sledges
and all the serviceable dogs. Rations for fourteen days will be taken from this place, and such other depot
stores as practicable. Depots A and 15, and that of the English e.\pedition at Lincoln Bay, will be drawn on
as you may require. Although your recent trip to Cape Union precludes the hopes of any tidings from the
'ycaniuttt-., you .will make particular search for drift-wood, which [lossibly would have come in this direction
if the vessel had been lost. During your absence you will lay out for your spring journeys such depots as
the state of the ice, and the condition of your party permit. The Alert winter quarters. Depot Point, and
Wrangel Bay are indicated as suitable points, but you are at liberty to use your judgment in the selection.

Inclosed you will find for your information charts showing the coast-line from Cape Beechey to Cape
Joseph Henry, with the tracks of the English expedition along the coast. On these charts will be entered
your track and camps daily. This will accompany your sledge report to me. A careful sledge journal will
be kept, showing all details of the trip. The condition of the ice in Robeson Channel and the Polar Sea
will be closely observed, antl carefully noted. All bearings taken, and astronomical observations made, will
be reported in full. From the Alert winter quarters will be brought any records found, substituting therefor
copies and the inclosed documents, to which will be added such notes as you may deem proper. A copy
of any addition will be retained and furnished me.

Meteorological observations will be made, when practicable, at 3, 7, and 11 a. m. and p. m., Washing-
ton mean time, as well as on all suitable and important occasions. The minimum thermometer at Cape
Betchey (depot B) will be read and reset, both on your outward and return journey.

On your return trip you will bring as much preserved meat southward from Lincoln Bay as may be
practicable, part of which will be left at Wrangel Bay and the remainder at depot B. A list of all articles
taken, with their respective weights, will be furnished me prior to your departure, and a similar list will be
made of all articles brought bac'- to this station, within a reasonable time after your return. Your sledge
journal will be submitted to me, and later a detailed report.
1 am, very respectfully yours,

A. W. Grf.ei.y,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, Acting Signal Officer and Assistant, Commanding.

Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Pavy, U, S. Army.

lli>ii)iiIiMiTrT"'^T^"'''

THK LADY FIIANKLIX UAY EXI'KDITIOX.

131

ApI'ICN'DIX No. 2^.- -Report of Dr. Pavy on trip towards Cape Joseph llcnry.

FoKT CoNfiER, Gkiwf.LI. Lani>, February 17, 1882.

Sir: According to your orders, tliu 2(1 of Octol)er, at 9 a. m., I left Fort Conger, accom[)anied by William
Whistler and the Isskimo Jens, with the two dog sledges, AnltHiwtti' and Lilla.

Arriving at Cape Murchison at 1 1.30 a. ni., we crossed St. Patrick I!ay. Following the ice-foot we
reached the tent at Mount Beauford [Beaufort] by 4.30 j). m., pitched our own [tent], cooked supper, fed tiie
dogs, and at 7 p. m. went into our sleeping-bags.

The 3d of October, rising at 6 a. m., we broke camp, added to our stores the supplement of provisions
necessary for the journey, and started at 9 a. m., traveling on the ice-foot towards Cape lieechey, that we
reached at i a. m.

So far the ice formed on the level beach of Shift Rud<ler Hay, where the hummocks and paleocrystic
floes cannot ground, was excellent. North of Cape Heechey we fell in with an ice-foot, narrow, broken, and
obstructed in many places by heavy pieces of tloebergs, thrown evidently ashore by the last storms ; for since
I had passed iiere with G. W. Rice the state of the foot has partially changed.

For an hour and a half we travelled through the winding paths of piled up masses, and at a very good
rate, considering the condition of the ice. But by 12.30 p. m., the foot coming suddenly to an end, our
progress was stojjped at the formidable Black Cliffs, where, in my previous journey, I had been forced by
open water to ascend the cliffs and to travel over table land.

r.cfore me stood steep, precipitous cliffs, dark and ragged at their summit; at their feet, nearly perpen-
dicular, 'i'here lay catati(|ue [chaotic] masses of ruble frubblc|, not in motion at tiie time, but seperated \sic\
by small streaks of water, and resembling, in their pointt<l forms, to so many enormous stalagmites. This ice
lined the coast as far north as I could see; to the cast it formed a band, stretching about two miles in the
straits. Farther still to the east and southeast the pack, or rather floes, small and large, of all shapes, and of
all dimensions, from the rounded bowlder to the tall, paleocrystic floe-berg, were majestically floating to the
south.

To embrace a larger field of observation we climljed from the ice-foot to the top of one of the highest
agglomerated masses lining the coast. The scene was magnificent in its desolation; but we were in the im-
possibility to advance a step.

I then retraced my course towards Beechey Vulley to hunt for tlie overland route, of which Cajjt. Sir
George Narcs iia\c \sic\ fijreseeii the existence. At 3 p. m. we entered tlie dry beil of a .liream, half a mile
from the tent. Its direction being northwest towards a lake where I had camped in September, I followed its
course, in the belief that if any valley existed the lake was certainly the receptacle for its spring waters.
The bottom of this creek, full of pepples [pebbles] and rocks scarcely covered by snow, was so bad for
travelling that we reached the lake, a mile and a half distant, at 5 p. m., with only half of our load. At 7 p.
m. we camped. I spent the morning of October 4 in earring provisions at the top of a steep hill overhang-
ing the lake, and about 1,000 feet [305'"] high. On the other side, to the north, stretches a valley 8 miles
long by one-half mile wide, turning in the distance to the northeast. The tent remained pitched on the lake.
The travelling was so hard over ground, bare of snow, that at 6 p. m. only we reached camp again, very tired,
and having only advanced part of our load three miles in the valley.

October 5, the tent and the rest of our baggage was packed on the sledges, and for the last time we
ascended a steep hill. By small advance I reached the extremity of the valley at 5 p. m., being then at an
altitude of 1,750 feet [533'"].

The 6th of October, at 7 a. m., with half of our entire load we descended by a very steep ravine in a
lower valley running nearly at the level of the sea, and opening by a narrow gulch into Wrangell Bay. There
we saw two ptarmigan (for me the last of the season), of which Jens killed one with a revolver. Then for
four hours we travelled at a rapid gait over a frozen stream, and reached the sea-coast on the northeast side
of Wrangell Bay. Tliere the ice was solid, but extended only a short distance from the north and south
capes. After caching our load of provision i)ehind a large eratique [erratic] block we returned to the tent
that had remained pitched in the upper valley, reaching there at 4.30 p. m.

The night 6th to the 7th of October having been very stormy, with light but steady fall of snow, I
waited until 9 a. m. before venturing to start. At 3 p. ni., the wind still blowing hard, I j)assed around the
north cape of Wrangell Bay and followed the ice-foot, on which in places we were all three obliged to hitch

i III

\ 1]

■'I 'I'J

132

TUE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXI»ED1TU)N.

to the sledge and pull between enormous blocks of paleocrystic ice, or haul with arms strength over hum
mocks and ruble [rubble] ice. Here Whistler was ot" excellent assistance. At 5 [). m., being scarcely able
to pick out any more our way, on account of the dimness of the light thrown by the moon, I halted to canii).
The place was certainly not good; ten yards [9'"] of ice-foot, sijueezed to the right by the piled up and over-
hanging blocks of paleocrystic ice, and to the left by the high cliffs, from the ragged summits of which we
were at every instant threatened by the fall of rocks. Numerous debris around us jjroved of the unsafety
of the spot.

But here was the best, even the only camping spot. To raise the tent in the teeth of a northwest wind,
blowing, I should think, at the rate of 20 miles an hour [S.9'" per second], was a dithcult work. Nevertheless,
at 7 p. m. supper was cooked; then, trusting to fortune, we got into the bags.

Like symphonic [symphony] of nature in such a far away place I shall never forget ; and for a long
time the noise of the howling winds and the grinding of the tloes, twenty feet [6'"] from my head, will remain
impressed upon my memory.

I was sleeping, when, at i p. m. [1 a. m.J, Whistler woke me by rushing out of his bag towards the door
with the announcement that the ice under the tent was moving. Happily the alarm was false. The concert
of nature had confounded his thoughts and misled his judgement. The case was realy a pardonable one.
Nevertheless, we kept awake; at 2 p. m. j 2 a. m.] cooked a hasty breakfast and waited until 4 p. m. [4 a.m.].
The light of the moon then shining more brightly, we packed the sledges and proceeded north. But an hours
drive through heavy paleocrystic ice brought us again to a stop. It was a repetition of the scene of the
Black Cliffs, but on a larger scale.

About half of a mile north of Mount Parry the narrow foot fornjed by the heavy ice, piled up by
tremendous pressure against steep cliffs, had been broken anil washed away. We stood there looking, but
once more powerless to act.

The wind still blowing had nevertheless abated. In the straits all the ice was in motion, not as a pack,
but in broken floes, small and large, covered or bordered by gigantic floe-bergs. When two of such pieces
came in contact it seemed as if a fight of titants [Titans], rendered more terrible by prolonged crashing and
roaring sounds, and that from every direction of the strait.

Pushing further was out of the (juestion until a new piled-up ice-foot would be formed, and that by
pressure, against the steep cliffs that were now grinded by floating floe-bergs. It must have been a similar
scene that Commander Markham witnessed in his fall journey of 1875.

With reluctance I decided to return home, convinced now that it must be very rarily possible to reach
the Alert winter quarters in the autumn by travelling with sledges and along the coast. Nearly at the foot
of Mount Parry I cached my provisions. Then, at the great satisfaction of Jens, who seemed anxiously
watching the repeated assault of the floe-bergs against a narrow strip of ice-foot that we had to cross, I gave
the order of retreat.

With our nearly empty sledges we hastened t-nvards Wrangell Bay, reaching there at 9 a. m., with driv-
ing snow .and cutting wind. At 9 p. m. we once more slept on the lake of Beechey Valley.

The 8th of October camj) was broke at 7 a. m. ; at 9 a. m. we passed the tent in Shift Rudder Bay and
arrived at 12 m. at Cape Murchison. At 4 p. m. we entered Discovery Harbor, unsuccessful in our attempt
to reach Cape Joseph Henry.

This journey has taught me the fact that if for spring journeys provisions are to be carried at Cape
Henry in October, it must be by travelling overland in valleys similar to the two lately discovered. Captain
Nares advised to look for this inland route that, says he, "must exist, and would put in communication
Lincoln with Wrangell Bay." -

I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant.

Octave Paw,
\ Acting Assistant Surgeon, U, S. A.

[Address omitted.]

TUB LADY FltANKLIN BAY KXI'KDITION.

133

Fort Conok.k, Grinnkii. T.and, Fibruary jo, 1882.

Sr.EDOE JOURNAL To WRANCKI.I. HAY.

Octohfr 2, 1881. — Left Fort Conj^er, accompanicil by Wliislcr and Jons, witi) thf two (!<)({ sledges.
Arrived at (.'ape Murchisonat 11.30 a, in. Reached Mt, Beauford [He:iii(<)rt| l)y4.30. VVent into sleeping-
bags at 7. p. m. •

October 3, 1881. — Rising at 6 .i. m. wo started at 7 a. m.; we reached Cape Reerliey at i a. in. North
of Cape Hcechey fell in with broken ice-foot, obstructed by heavy pieces of lloe-bergs. Tin; fool has par-
tially changed. We travelled for an hour and a half; at 12.30 p. m. our progress is stopped at the Itlack
Cliffs. Caholicjue [chaoti'J masses of rublf ''rubhlej and ice, \:c. We climbed from the ice-foot to the to|)
of agglomerated ice. Magnificent scene, impossibility to advance. Retraced towards Heechey Valley.
Reached lake at 5 p. m,, with half of the load.

Oiloher 4, 1881. — Spent in caching provisions in a valley, 8 miles long by \i mile wide, 'i'ent remains
pitched on the lake. Travelling hard. Advanced part of the loa<l 3 miles in the valley.

October K^, 1881. — Packed tent and baggage, and by small advances I reached the extremity of the
valley at 5 p. m., altitude 1,750 feet [533"'].

October 6, 1881. — Starte<l at 7 a. m. Reached Wrangell Bay at 12 m. Ice solid, but extends but
short distance from the capes; we returned to the tent that had remained pitched in the upper valley, reach-
ing there at 4.30 ]). m.

October -J, 1881. — Night very stormy, with light but steady ftill of snow. Started at 9 a. m. ; at 3 p. m.
(wind blowing hard) I passed the west cape of Wrangell Bay. Followed the ice-foot. We were all three
obliged to pull the sledge in places. Enorma [ous] blocks of paleo> .ystic ice. At 5 p. m. we halted to
camp in a bad place; wind, 20 miles an hour [8.9'" per second]. At 7 cook^ ' supi)er, October 7 cocked
breakfast at 2 p. m. [a.m.]. Packed at 4 p. m. [a. m,]. Brought to a stoi) at 5 ]>, m, [a. m.]. Repetition of
the Black Cliffs. All the ice in motion. I repeat reaching Wrangell Bay at 9 a. m., .'iid the lake o'' Beechey
Valley at 9 p. m.

October^, 1881. — Broke camp at 7 a. m., arrived at 12 m. at Cape Murchison, and at 4 p, ni. entered
Discovery Harbor.

Respectfully submitted.

OcTavk Paw,
Aitiiti^ Assistant Surgeon, U. S, A.

First Lieut. A. W. GRF.Et,v,

Fifth Cavalry, A. S, O. nnii Assistant, Commanding,

rl'i

Appendix No. 29. — Lieutenant Lockwood^s report on St. Patrick I a /ley.

Fort Con(;i'.r, Grinnkm, Land, October 6, 1881.

Sir: I have the honor to make the following report of a short excursion to the valley to the nortli of
St. Patrick Bay in the immediate vicinity of this station.

I left here in the forenoon of the 3d instant, at 10.40 a. m , with the iron sledge drawn by the party,
consisting of Sergeant Linn, Corporal Salor, Private Henry, and myself We took the overland route and
found it very difficult for the lack of snow, especially the ascent from here to the "gap," which occupied
over an hour. The steep and rocky bluffs bordering St. Patrick Bay were reached at 3.30 p. m. The
work of descent was very arduous and occupied two hours when, on reaching the level of the bay, the tent
was pitched and I went into camp.

I broke camp and got off '0 tho ni(i: ning at S o'clock and reached the dry bed of the stream in the
valley referred to half an hour afterwards, but fcun I on reaching it so many stones and so little snow that
I gave up the idea of draggiiij; the sledge up the valley, more especially as the unironed sledge-runners
were already very badly worn. So I started viOi the party up the valley leaving the sledge and load
behind. The valley, propv, ly -pe.iking, is, I sVu/.il., judge, from a mile to a mile and a half wide, measured
between the steep, precipitou: bluffs or niotmtaiiis hemming it in. It has two levels, .so to speak, that of the
stream above mentioned aiui that of lev;;! mesa lands, from fifty [15"'] to a hundred feet [30'"] high, above the
general level. These seem to hv. washings from the valley's lofty sides, and project out first on one side, then

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\ !

It :

134

TDP] LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

from the other, like the mud flats of a river. I continuctl on with the party for three liours; that is, till 1 1.30
a. m., and there found myself, at the northern extremity of the lower level referred to, probably 6 miles from
the bay. Asccr.'iing a rocky ridge, about midway between the sides of the valley, I took a compass reading
to St. Patrick Bay, which gave the trend of the valley thence to this point 139'' from south, or not ([uite
northwest. This agreed within 9° of a reading up the valley as far as could be seen; that is, to this locality,
t.aken at 9 a. m. A sight un-siream gave the continuation of the valley as north, within 2 degrees. I could
see no valhy to the north from my elevation — nothing but a narrow ravine inclosing the stream-bed, and
the whole party suffering very much from a cold north wind, I retraced my course southward, down-stream.
In following the dry bed we passed through a narrow gorge about 30 feet [9"'] wide by 50 to 100 1 1 5'" to
30'"] high, its sides vertical in many places. It illustrates glacier action at some jjast period, the rocky sides
being deeply worn and furrowed. A narrow stream from the west comes in just above this place. Much
fatigued by our walk over rocks covered with snow, we reached tiie sledge at 2 p. m.. and continuing with it
down the bay reached depot A at 5.15 p. m.

The following liay we got off at 9 a. m., leaving spare provisions, &c. at thi depot, and on reaching the
English wagon dragged it to the south side of Water-course Hay, leaving it on the shore convenient to the
ordinary route to the coal mine. The party reached the station at 2.05 p. m.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

J. ]?. LocKwonD,
ScconJ Lifiifiiiiiii/, Tii'iiity-thirtl Infantry, Acting Signal Officer.

First Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant to Cliirf Signal Officer, Commanding,

Appendix No. 30. — Sergeant Rice's report on camp equipage.

Fort Conc.ku, (iRiNNti.L Land, October &, iS^i.

Sir : I herewith respectfully submit transcript of readings of thermometer. Beck's Minimum, at the
"Bellows," made October 5, 6, and 7.

\\c arrived at Bellows 3.40 p. m., Wednesday, October 5 ; thermometer was set. At 7 p. m. it registered
-18 [ — 27.8° C.]. Thursday, October 6, at 7 a. m., —24 [—31.1° C.J; .at 4 p. m., —18 [ — 27.8°C.]; at
4.20 p. m., —20 [ — 28.9° C.j; at 7 p. m., —25 [—31.7° C.]. Friday, October 7, at 7 a. m., —25 [—31.7° C.J.

A high northerly wind prevailed during the whole time, which, in conjunction with the low temperature,
affectetl us very unpleasantly when exposed to it. The faces of Sergeant Brainard and myself were partly
frozen. Sergeant Brainard's s';veral times.

The buffalo sleeping-bag was hardly given a fair trial. Being disai)pointed in our expectations of finding
rubber blankets at the " Bellows," we were comjielied to pl.-ice the sleeping-bag on the bare ground, with
nothing intervening between it and the snow. We were, the'efore, atlected by the cold from the ground.
Under other circumstances, we think the bag would give satisfaction in every res] ict. It might, perhaps, be
improved by covering the outside with canvas or sealskin dressed.

The new Hudson Bay sledge, used in transporting the musk-ox meat to the ice, gave perfect saiisfaction.
It became considerably worn by being dragged over bare ground and rocks, but we do not know of any
other sledge that would have suffered less under tlie san.e circumstances.
Very respectfully.

Lieut. A. W. Greely,

Commanding Polar Expedition.

CiEO. W. Rice,
Sergeant, Signal Corps, U. S. A.

Appendix No. 31. — Lieutenant Lockzvood'' s orders to attempt crossing of Robeson Channel.

Fort Conner, Grinnei.l Land, November i, 1S81.
Sir : You will proceed, weather permitting, on Wednesday, Novemlier 2, to depot H, near Cape beechey,
and attempt crossing Robeson Chaiuiel at an early day. .Seven men, hauling the eight-'.nan sledge, will

TUB LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

135

constitute your main party, while Sergeant Rice, with Jens Kdward and a dog sledge, will accompany you
to (-'ape Beechey, and will be at your disposal until you can spare then), when they will reijurt to Dr. Pavy
at that place. Ten days' rations will be taken (except certain articles largely in excess at depot II). from
this point; and on leaving the coast twenty full days' supplies will he carried. The food to he used will he
left to your discietion, except that enough lime-juice must be taken, either frozen or in pcnimican, to allow
an ounce daily to each man. However, the ration to be consumed after leaving this coast will not exceed
the following, or its equivalent: 14 ounces pemmican, 2 ounces bacon, 12 ounces bread, 2 ounces milk, 2
ounces cranberry preserves, 3 ounces potatoes, 2 ounces butter, 2 ounces sugar, i ounce chocolite, ^ ounce
tea, -j^B ounce pepper, y^ ounce salt. . If stores are found at Thank God Harbor this amount can be increased
from such store.; at your discretion.

In crossing you will take, if open water is visible, the whale-boat now cached at dcr-ot 13. The boat
on your return must be brought to this coast and safely cached.

On reaching the Greenland coast your permanent camp will be made at the most convenient spot. A
party will be sent by you to examine the boat, tent, and stores about i}^ miles east of Cape Sumner, while
you, with a second party, will visit the observatory at Thank God Harbor.

A list of the stores left by the Polaris in 1871 is herewith inclosed. You will please verify its correctness,
add to it any other articles found, and note their condition as well as that of the whale-boat left by tlie
English exped'tion of 1875-76. In case time permits, the condition of the shore ice around Cape Sumner
and towards Gap Valley should be noted, but for this special purpose no favorable opjiortunity of recrossing
the straits should be lost.

A set of oignal equipments will be taken, and from November 5 a party will daily attempt to communi-
cate with you from Distant Cape, between 2 and 3 p. m., during which hours you are to keep, if i)ossil)le, a
watch on that point.

As you fully understand, a journey across Robeson Channel is at all times full of dangers, which are
greatly increased at this period of the year, when the sun has long been absent and new ice tlaily forminj,'.
Although this is a later date than any party has e\er trav.led, even liy land, in such high latitudes, 1 fi:cl
confident that your sound judgment and prompt action will bring about all po.ssihle success, wliile knowing
that no reasonable chance of crossing will be lost. I count, too, on your discretion, whicli will constrain you
to take no unusual or unnecessary risks, but rather to retui ,\ here. 1 atn ipiitc aware of the possibility of such
return without success, and should not be surprised at such result.

If you succeed in crossing you will on youi return leave all articles of food and equipments, not deemed
by you indispensable, properly cached on the Greenland shore for your s|)ving vvork.

Meteorological observations will be taken, when ]iracticable, at 3, 7, and 1 1 a. ni. and p. m., Washington
mean time. The maximum and minimum thermometers, pr()|icrly set. will l)e Id'i by you on tlie Greenland
shore. I inclose an approximate list of the ti.i es of high and low water and ranges thereof, from the id to
the isth, inclusive.'

Wishing you and your party good health and success, I trust your speedy return will allay any uneasi-
ness on my part.

A. W. Greei.v,

First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant, Commanding Expedition.
Second Lieut. James B. Lockwood,

Twenty-third Infantry, A, S. O.
(Two inclosures.)

Appendix No. 33. — Lieutenant LockwoocV s report on attempted crossing of Robeson Channel.

Fort Conger, Grinnki.i, Land, Novemlter 10, 18S1.

Sir: In pursuance of your letter of instructions of the 1st instant, 1 have tlu' honor to render tlie fol-
lowing report relative to an attempt to cross Robeson Channel, or rather a recoiuiaissance with tliat object
in view.

The l-arty consisted of Sergeants Brainard and I, inn, Corporal Salnr, and Privates Cumell, liicrderbick,
Fredericks, ;md Kllis. The luigiish sledge used w.is loaded with about fifteen days' rations, tents, sleeping-
bags, and the usual eciuipment and a variety of miscellaneous articles required to provide against contin-

ffi I

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: I''

i^l

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«M>)'

136

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDIIION.

i ■

gencies in getting across, or to make the snow-house at depot B more habitable — an itemized list of all of
which, with weights, I have already furnished you. The iiotal weight (sledge and load) was 1,050 pounds,
a trifle more or less, perhaps, 131^ pounds per man.

November i. — At 1 o'clock p. m., the party left the station and pulled the loaded sledge to a point very
near Distant Cape, where, leaving it, at 3.15 p. m., we started back and reached here at 4.30 p. m., where we
passed the night.

Novemfier 2. — We got off at 8.45 a. m., and, picking uj) the sledge where left, proceeded rapidly on the
way; everything satisfactory except the light, the gloom being greater on account of the thick overcast state
of the sky.

At 2 p. m. we reached Cape Murchison, or rather depot A, near by. This place I consider ten miles
from here or half-way to the snow-house.

Sergeant Rice, with the Eskimo Jens and the dog team, overlook mt a half hour before, and here we all
made a halt often minutes, drinking some chocolate, brought along for the purpose, and filling up two bags
of coal. This coal, about 440 pounds, I put on the sledge, but the additional weight being very burden-
some I threw it off again in a few minutes. The hauling across St. Patrick Bay was tedious and laborious
as usual on account of the snow which, by cor.cealing the trail, made it necessary to "break out" a new
one or rather follow the one made by Sergeant Rice whi. preceded us. We were two hours, less ten minutes,
in crossing. At 6.30 p. m. we reached a point on the south side of Shift Rudder Bay, about three miles
from our destination, and, the men seeming much fatigued, I took tlie Hudson Bay sledge and about 200
pounds (what was needed for the night) and continuetl tluis to depot B, very much to the disajipoinlment
of most of the men who were ambitious to pull through with the entirj load. But thi. indentation of the
coast here is very similar to St. Patrick Bay, as regards hauling, and I judged it more prudent to send back
for the rest of the load in the morning. We reached the snow-house at 8 p. m., and found that Sergeant
Rice had preceded us by about one-half or three-fourths of an hour.

Private Ellis complained of his foot hurting him a good deal and of his being "played out" thereby.
He tells me he injured his foot by a fall some years ago.

A'ovember 3. — At 10.40 a. m., I left with Jens and the dog team (seven dogs), and at i p. m. reached the
coal thrown off yesterday — about 100 yards [91'"] from the tent. While Jens loaded the two bags and started
on return, I walked C ing the ice-foot, up the bay, about a mile, to examine the small boat left by the Engli.sh.
I overtook Jens ■ rcssing the bay. Finding the load very heavy for the dogs, and having decided it imprac-
ticable to tai ." two bags of coal across the straits, I left one of the two at the old cache on the nouh side
of St. Patrick Bay, and continuing on to the snow house reached it at 4 p. m. While I was absent. Ser-
geant Brainard and the party had brought up the English sledge and load left yesterday and placed the
whale-boat thereon, and I made some other pre[)arations for the next day.

November 4. — About noon, having everything in readiness, the whole party, except Ellis, whose foot
disabled him, left the snow-house, with whale-boat, equipped and rationed for u|)war(ls of twenty days, and
"headed" towards Polaris Pron.cntory. I could ilistinguish nothing in the gloomy twilight but a long
stretch of hummocky ice, and so left the small stove and coal and other things behind tJiat I had intended
taking along had there been more water. The boat being 28 feet [8.5'"] long and the sledge 1 1 [3.4'"], the
bow and stern projected far beyond the entls of the lat'er and made a very unwieldy load as well as a very
heavy one. Our progress on the smooth, level floe next the shore was correspondingly slow and unsatisfac-
tory. Every little unevenness in the ice lirought us to a halt. A small piece of " rubble ice," about 2 feet
[0.6'"] high, over which we did not succeed in pulling our load by united and repeateil exertions, convinced
me that it was impracticable to go farther, except by making a broad, level road all the way across as we
went. An undertaking of this nature, in the daily increasing darkness and cold, was not to be thought of
without urgent necessity. Accordingly we returned to the snow-house after an absence of two or three hours.
Shortly afterwards Sergeant Rice, with the dog-team, returned from Cape Murchison with the small boat
which I had sent him for in the morning. About 6 o'clock Dr. Pavy, accomi)anied by I ieutennnt Kisling-
bury, came along. There were twelve in the snow-house at supper and eight slejjt inside. This structure is
now quite comfortable. I occupied .some time after returning from the ice in adiling to the height of the
roof and the thickness of the sides, and making some other imi)rovements — putting slats under the canvas
roof, &c. The sides are nearly vertical and about 6|^ feet [2"'] high; the diameter oi the HoOi" is about 11
feet [3.6'"].

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

137

November 5. — The I'orenooii was occupied in preparing for another attempt in the small 12-foot [s-G™]
boat brought up. Oakum and white-lead were stuffed in all visible cracks and openings. Doubtless we passed
over others concealed by ice and frost. My plan was to have the whole party — excepting Kills, sick — draw
tlie loaded boat on the sledge to open water, if such there was, or at least as fiir as those to be left behiml
could prudently go, and, having found the craft seaworthy, to make an attempt with three of the men.
F.verything was prepared accordingly, baggage and rations being cut down to the lowest limit; the latter
weiglied 1 14 pounds. We started a few minutes after noon and made satisfactory progress (seven men drag-
ging) till we reached tlie hummocky ice. The sky was overcast and everything indistinct and gloomy.
Floundering through the snow and over the ice-cakes we got many falls. Soon we heard very distinctly the
grinvling of moving ice like a distant roar or the monotonous drone of a fly-wheel. Some of the men said
they could see distant floe-bergs moving. In the distance, towards Polaris Promontory, perhaps two miles
off, we all saw a dark, indistinct line, which evidently was open water. I left the rest straining at the load,
and proceeding ahead over some very rough places, crossed some wet " sludge-ice," about fifteen or twenty
yards [14'" or 18"'] wide, and found myself on a comjjaratively level floe. I had not proceeded more than
a few minutes on this towards the dark line referred to when I became aware that tlie ice I was on was in
motion. I imagined the "sludge-ice" crossed over to be water, and, thinking my retreat cut off, made all
haste back, but found the '-sludge-ice" still intact and the moving floe pressed close against its edge. It
seemed to be the boundary line of the fast shoreice. I found on further examination that water aj)[)eared in
this "sludge," somewhat of the consistency of melted snow, and I could readily thrust my boat-hook down
into the water beneath almost anywhere. I brought the party and their load to this place. The capacity
of the boat and the ecpiipment admitted of but four men. It would have been a laborious task for the seven
to get her over this i)lace. It was evidently dangerous for a man alone to walk over this sludge, and I did
not know that the boat w.is seaworthy, but the chief consideration which made me forego any furtlier attempt
to ])roceed was the increasing gloom which made near objects indistinct in the extreme. The men seemed
heartily glad when I told them we should give it up.

At 2 o'clock I displayed the two signal torches from the top of an adjacent floe-berg, 15 or 20 feet
[4.5 or 6'"] high; they continued burning for thirty-five minutes. I could see no lights at Distant Cape, and
doubted ours being seen. The snow-clouds obscured everything. In returning, the darkness offered a greater
obstacle than ever, though we followed our outward trail. Ellis hod built a fire on shore, by my order, which
was (piite an aid when any difficulty in following the trail occurred.

Nin'emberd. — Accompanied by Sergeant Rrainard, I walked ou, to the moving floe of the previous day; it
occupied just twenty-five minutes, walking briskly. Instead of the iloe we found open water stretching from
the direction of Cape Beechey obli(iuely down the straits, varying in width from 50 to perhaps 400 yarils
[46 to 366"'], these distances constantly changing according to the contour of the moving pack on the farther
side. The "sludge" still adhered to the fast ice, though there was not so much of it. To-day, as well as
yesterday, the ice was moving north when we observed it. The few hours of light were occupied in this
walk and by the party generally in extending the tunnel of the snow-house and moving the tent and stores
alongside. I also constructed a snow pedestal on the little bluff adjoining, near tlie former position of the
tent, and fitted the telescojje on top, thus making observation with it uj) and down and across the straits
more satisfactorily.

In the evening I made arrangements to travel north next morning, along the ice-foot, with a view to
gaining something by insi)ecting the straits and the land in tliis direction. Ellis was to be lel't beliind, as his
foot still pained him. All this in the event of the weather jToving favorable.

November 7. — The wind blowing and tlie air filled with snow-clouds, I decided to return to the station.
Ellis determined to do his share, notwithstanding iiis painful foot, and stuck manfully to the drag-rope till
we reached home.

At 10.35 ^- "^- ^^'S B"^' ^^1 'li'^^gi'ig tilt-' small boat on the English sledge, and, leaving behind rations
and other things, I thought better to keej) at the deiiot. Our day's work was a hard one. The soutii wind,
aided by a high tide, had flooded the ice-foot to the very edge of the steep, rocky slope that marks the coast
line. The new ice-foot had not yet frozen hard enough to bear, and we constantly broke in, often at every
step and sometimes to tlie knee. It was but seldom jiossible to avoid this by traveling on tlie slope to our
right, on account of tlie alternate dce[) snow-drifts and exposed rocks. I cautioned the men against frost-
bite, and we ke|)t on, our progress slow, though our load could not have much exceeded 650 pounds. At 3

1 1

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138

THE LADY FKANKLIN DAY KXPEDITION.

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p. m. wc reached the north side of St. Patrick Bay and hghted the signal-torch to find a way off the ice-foot.
It was not of much use afterwards except when in among the hummocks, for our old trail was obliterated
and the driving snow made very indistinct even the nearest of the high bluffs along here. It was impossible
to see across the bay till probably half-way over. Some of the men complaining of their wet feet, I halted,
and most of them changed their foot gear. At 4.50 p. m. we reached depot A. I pitched the tent
adjoining the one there, and, with the little stove brought along, we soon had a good fire from the supply
of coal here. Private liierderbick had changed his socks early in the journey and afterwards I believe, and
had kept on land, generally where the icefoot was weak, and yet on arrival at camp his big toe was found
severely frozen, giving liim a good deal of j)ain; everything was done that suggested itself, and he was put
in a sleei)ing-bag. Sergeants Brainard and Linn and Private Connell, and perhaps someot the rest, suffered
from frost-bitten toes, but none seriously.

November 8. — We had breakfast at 5 a. m. and were off at 6.30. It was found necessary to carry
Bierderbick in the boat. Here, wrapped in a sleeping-bag, he remained till we reached the station. The
ice-foot was extremely good, and we got along very well, except when we left it, on two occasions, at Water-
course liay, antl floundered around in the hunimocky ice, unable to see our way. We also encountered a
like difficulty in the long stretch of snow between Distant Cape and Dutch Island. The bare rock, which
marks the eastern extremity of tiie vertical cliffs forming this cape and over which the sledge route lies, we
reached at 8.55 a. m. At 9.50 we were on the ice opposite the cape and at 11.50 at Dutch Island. Here
we were hajipily joined by Private Whisler, by whose ready help we got to the station and ended the jour-
ney at 12.30 p. m.

I regret to say that I recorded but few meteorological observations. Being out so much, and finding
much dilficulty in getting accurate readings, jirincipally on account of the darkness, I gave it up. At 9. 15
p. m., of the 2(1 instant, the thermometer stood at — 12 \ — 24.4" C.]. The lowest registered since my visit
in October was — 28 | — Z2>-'i' C.J- During my stay at depot B the thermometer ranged, without an excei)-
tion that I recall, from — 11 to — 20 [ — 23.9^ C. to — 28.9° C.J.

The sledge route between here and depot B is very good. The high tide referred to has improved it
very much, though it ruined it at the time. High, rocky, precipitous bluffs follow the general contour of
the coast line or ice-foot with but few exceptions. These exceptions are changes from bluff or cliff to the
gradual sloping mountain sides. The latter topography exists only at Water-courso Bay and in tlie neigh-
boriiood of Shift Rudder JJay. Sledge parties always cross these bays and St. 1 atrick Bay through the
hummocks, in order to avoid long detours. The floe ice is also taken between here and Distant (ape. It
may be said that sledging or transportation of any kind is ini])ractirali!c along this roite at any time, except
on the ice-foot or the surface ice outside. The debris from the cliffs forms an inclined plane, extending from
al)ove to the edge of the sea. Though the slope of this plane is occasionally such as to allow traveling
thereon, the alternate surfaces of bare, uneven rocks and snow-drifts make this traveling laborious in the
extreme, even where it is possible at all

Very resj'ectfully, your obedient servant,

J. B. I.OCKWOOD,

Second Lieutenant, Tuenty-tliird Infantry, A. S. O,
First Lieut. A. W. Gref.i.y,

Fi/t/i Cavalry, A. S. 0. and Assistant, Commanding.

Appendix No. 2)Z- — ^''- Pnvf s orders for journey to IVrangel Bay,

Fort Conger, Grinnell \^MiV), Nov. mtirr 3, 1881.
Si I : Vou will proceed, on November 4, to depot B, Cape Beechey, taking the dog-sledge Antoinette. At
d( pot B, Sergeant Rice, with the dog-sledge Li//a, will report to you, as soon as he can be spared by Lieu-
''■11,111' Loi.kwood. You wil then proceeil to lay out a depot for the work of exploration northward beyond
Caj.e Henry '". the comii;; spring, for which you have tendered your services. This depot will consist of peni-
m^tan. li.ird bicad, milk, and butter. Such ipiantities of these articles as are needed to insure full loads from
Cipc Bexhey norfhwar 1 will betaken from tlepot li. The new depot, to be known as C, will be at the
m ■-'■ no'i!ieil) ■xiut you can attain without endangering your safe and speedy return. You will also leave

h i

TUE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXrEDlTION.

139

at depot C any articles of your c(iuipments which, not intlispensabic for your return, may be useful the
coming spring. Meteorological observations will be taken, when ])racticable, at 3, 7, and 1 1 a. ni. and p. m.,
Washington mean time. The minimum thermometer at depot IJ must be read and reset, both in going and
returning. While at depot B no alcohol will be used, but all cooking must be done with coal. A list, with
the weights of all articles taken, will be furnished before starting. A copy of your sledge journal will be
transmitted to me within a week after your return.
I am, very respectfully yours,

A. W. Gref.i.v,
First Lieutfiiani, Fifth Cavalry, A. S, O. and Assistant, Commanding.
Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Pavy, U. S. Army.

Appendix No. 34. — Dr. Pary^s report on jaurncy to Wraiigcl Bay.

Fori Congkk, Grinnell Land, February \ith, 1881 [2].

Sir: According to your orders, Friday. Nov. 4tli, at 7.30 a. m. I left Fort Conger, accompanied by
Lieut. Kislingbury and driving my:;c!*" the dog sledge Lilla. Without any difficulty we turned Distant Cape,
and followuig the ice-fot t, reached Cape Murchison at 11.30 a.m. Since my last journey, the general
appearance of the floes in Water course Bay is not changed. On the north side of St. Patrick's Bay, after
having passed over excellent travelling ice, we fell in here and there with hummocks ; but alltogether the
road could be considered as very good. At (1 p. m. the snow-house (in Shift Rudder Bay, at the foot of Mt.
Beauford [BeautortJ) was reached, and we found assembled the party of Lieut. Lockwood, who had returned
the previous day from an unsuccessful attempt to cross tlie straits. During the night that I jjassed very
comfortably under the tent the wind blew hard, and the grinding of the ice could be heard in the distance.

Tliis confirmed my belief that Robeson Channel closes, but very late in the fall or at the best in the
beginning of winter.

Saturday, 5th November, I started at 9.30 a. m., leaving Lieut. Lockwood's party busy at work preparing
a boat that they expected to use in a second attempt to cross the straits.

Following your instructions, I took with me C. W. Rice and the Eskimo Jens to drive the dog sledge
Antoinette. When travelling in the bed ol the watercourse that em[)ties from the lakes of Beechey Valley,
the little fox-dog Gypsy, ol the sledge Antoinrtte, began showing symptoms of maternity. Being then but
a mile and a half from the snow-house, I tried to drive her back, but without success. Neither coaxing or
whi[)ping being of any effect, I was obliged to let her run with the team, but unhitched.

Now the steep hill, non
without unloading.

The snow being comp
the bottom of the valley (;i
the ground was swept bni

From two p. m., hu
(about half-way betweei

of the lake, that gave me so much trouble to climb in October, was ascended

ivelyhard we succeeded by double manning each sled. But before reaching
other side, men and beast had gone through hard pulling over places where
its snow. Nevertheles:; travelling was better than in October.
t which we entered the valley, to seven fifteen p, m., when we pitched the tent
angell Bay and Mt. Beauford [Beaufort]), the weather become cloudy and cold.
At nine p. m. the s, or was eaten and every one had turned in his bag.

November 6th, S a. m. we woke up with the news that Gypsy had increased our canine stock with
three heads. Rice li ving implored mercy for the innocents, we dug a hole in a bank of hard snow and
left the family well supplied with i)emmican.

At 9.30 a. m. we were travelling; and at 12 m., after passing one of my encampments of last month, we
entered the lower valley n a vertiginous descent ilown a steep ravine.

At 4 p. m. we reached Wrangell Bay aiul encamped, in a snow-storm, the wind drifting in our flice.
Monday 7th November, the gale that was blowing all night had scarcely abated, arid tlie moon was yet
too cloudy to travel by.

We remained in tlu b.15 until 12.30 p. m.; when, hitching up one team, I started with Jens to carry
the provisions across ti;.' bay, to tlie northeast side, wl- -re I had lielbre started a depot. From this sjiot
close to the northeast entrance of the bay, I could scc, it a very short distance ahead, the line of deniar-
kation between the ice and the open water, extending as far as the misty weather could allow the view to
reach.

i. 1

!ii 'if

140

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

The sea, at the time, must have been washing the feet of the two foremost capes.

I may therefore venture to say, that, where I had found last October a solid sheet of ice, the waves
were now rolling. I think, moreover, that if my purpose in this trip had been to reach Lincoln Bay, it would
have been frustrated once more.

This storm, the winds of the past month, or the floating massing of ice, that have been tossed through
and fro in the channel, must have undoubtedly broke the ice-foot in many places between Wrangell Bay and
Lincoln Bay.

The i)rovisions, well secured behind a large erratique [erratic] block, I at once returned to the tent,
having been absent for about an hour. At 1.30 p. m. we began our homeward journey, reaching the snow-
house of Shift Rudder Bay at 10 p. m.

On the way, we stopped at our camping place in the upper valley, to take the dogs on the sledge.

November 8th, by a dark and disagreeable day, at 12 m. we left the snow-house and sighted Fort
Conger at 5.50 p. m., having accomplished the object of the journey.

I have but to express my satiesfaction \s/i:\ for the manner in which G. VV. Rice has done his duty.
I am, very respectfully, your oht. servant,

Octave Pavy,
^ef. Assist. Surgeon, U, S, A,

This report was received by me, February 17, 1882, after five formal requests for it and as many as i
dozen personal ones.

It comes in an incomplete and discreditable rJiape. Dr. Pavy has been informed by me that his reports
could be made in French if he so wished. I have not deemed it proper to correct the errors of English
therein.

Being defective otherwise, I have (February 21) written officially for a supplementary report. I deem
this indorsement necessary to show that I have in no way countenanced such gross neglect.

A. W. Greely,
First Lieut., t,tfi Cav., A. S, O. and Asst., Cowdg. Expdn,

Feby. 21, 1882, Fort Conger, Grinnell Land.

ist Lieut. A. W. Greely,

A. S. O. and Asst,, Commanding !

Fort Conger, Gr. Land, Ft'by, 20, '82.

SLEDGE JOURNEY TO WRANGELL BAY.

November \ih, '81. — Left Ft. Conger at 7.30 a. m., accompanied by Lieut. Kislingbury. Reached
Cape Murchison at 1 1.30 a. m. At 6 p. m. reached the snow-house.

November ^th, '81. — During the night the wind blew hard; the grinding of the ice could be heard. Took
with me Sergt. Rice and Jens — Gypsy symptoms of maternity — ascended without unloading the hill north of
the lake. Pitched tent about half way between Wrangell Bay and Mt. Beauford [Beaufort]; weather cloudy
and cold.

November 6tli, '81. — At 8 a. m. news of Gypsy ; dug a hole in a bank for the innocents ; at 12 m. we
entered the lower valley. At 4 p. in. reached Wrangell B.iy and encamped ; snow storm.

November "jt/t, '81. — Gale abaied. Remained in bags until 12.30 p. m. Left depot. Open water
extending as far as the view could reach. At 1.30 p. m. we began our homeward journey, reaching the
snow-house of Shift Rudder Bay at 10 p. m.

November it/i, '81. — Left snow-house at 12 m. and sighted Fort Conger at 5.50 p. m.

Respectfully submitted.

Octave Pavy,
Aetg. Asst. Surg,, U . S. A.

Previsions left by Dr. Pavy at Aft. yrt^r)'.*— Ijo Hi. pcmmican ; Jo lb. bread.

Precisions left at IVmnj^vt Bay.* — 100 lb. penimican ; 50 lb. bread ; 7 cans milk; 3 cans butter; 4 cans extract beef.

* As per list handed nie by Dr. I'avy a few day.s after Iiis return from Mount Parry. — A. W. Greki.v, I.l.

mmsiamm*K m.i m ma mtim,»i.'i>tmnj»

Ill

THE LADY FllANKLIN 15AY EXPEDITION.

Appendix No. 35. — Dr. Pavy^s supphtiunlary report under Appendices 2y and jj.

141

Fort C'oNr.F.R, Grinnfi.i. Lanp, Fcbrtiary 28///, 1S82.
Sir: I have the honor to submit to you the supplementary information bearing on my journey of the
3d of October and 4th of November.

Journey of the 31) of Octorkr.

In this journey I have cstabhshed two depots. The farthest one north (yet unnamed) is nearly at the
foot of Mt. Parry.

The coast being in this neighborhood of very uniform appearance, T couhl'only, to my jircvious indica-
tion, add that the i)rovisions were cached l)ehinil a very prominent erraticpie [erratii:] block that can certainly
not escape the observation of any party travelling along the shore.

This deiiot contains bread, 100 [50] lbs.; |)emmican, over 100 [150] lbs.; snowshoes, i pair.

At Wrangell Ray, the other depot (depot C") is again established bchinil a large block of stone on the
northeast side towards the entrance of the bay.

I can again adil that no travelling ])arty can mistake the location. The bay is comparatively small, and
the rock that marks the spot is the largest, and really the only prominent one, 'I'he depot consists of pem-
mican, 1 20 [100] lbs. ; [bread, 50 lbs., A. VV. G.j ; butter, 3 cans ; milk, 7 cans ; extract of beef, 4 cans ; snow-
shoes, 2 pair.

The list of provisions that were to be taken from depot B was made before leaving Fort Conger, • vi .3
in your possession.

On my return at Shift Rudder Bay I left at dei)()t B three quarters of a gallon of spirit (.f wine, ten to
twelve pounds of lime-juice pemmican, and a 15 lbs, can of English potatoes, from which a very small
quantity had be n tnl.o.

At depot I; ::!> mi.'imum self registring thermometer, set by the previous party (registered minimum)
read minus 15" [ — 26.1° C.j the 3rd of October.

I will add that during this journey at no time and at no place I have seen Robeson's Channel in any
favorable state of navigation.

Meteorological observations, October.

\ II

Dale.

Hour of
day.

Temperature .

Wind.

Fahr.

7 p.m.

10°

-23- 3°

NE.

7 a. m.

— 10.8

-23.8

NE.

7 1). m.

-•5

—26.1

t'aliii.

7 a. m.

-12.4

-24.7

Calm.

6 p. m.

— II.

23.9

8 a. m.

-'3S

—25.0

NE. blowing.

7 p. m.

—10. 2

-234

NE. blowing.

6 a. m.

- 3-5

-19.7

NE. blowing.

8 p. m.

+ 1.9

-16.7

NE. blowing.

Magnetical bearings correspond with the stations marked on the map.*

At station A, B reads 289"; at station B, station A reads 108" ,station C reads 295°; at station C, station
B reads 117°, station D reads 343°; at station D, station C reads 162°.

Journey of November 4TH.

List of articles left at depot C : Pemmican, 100 lbs.; bread, 60 lbs.; butter, 8 cans; milk, 8 cans.
The 7th of November the minimum thermometer read at the snowhouse, in Shift Rudder Bay, ■
[—37.2° C.]. [At that time so reading — A. W. G.]

35°

•Map omitted as being unimportant, being traced copy of English map furnished by me to Dr. Pavy. — A. W.G., i^/.

142

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

In this trip at no time the straits were navigatable.

Having not aquired yet enough practical experience to write about the contested question of the formar

tion of paleocrystic ice, I thought judicious, for the present, to dismiss the subject from my report.

I am, very respectfully, your obt. servant,

OcTA/E Paw,

Act, Asst, Surgeon, U. S. A.

Lhi of pravhions at depot B , Nin\ "jth, 1881.

1 box potatoes.

2 cms potatoes.

I box l>akeil beans.
18 cms IjakccI licans.

1 box corned beef.
36 cans Cornell l)eef.

• I sack for llrcenlaml coast.

*l bag, contents as follows : ColTco, 7 lbs.; chocol.-Uc, 7 lbs.;
salt, 6 lbs.; pepper, I can; wicking, J lbs.; corned beef,
locan; roast beef, 4cans; condensed milk, f 16 can; baked
beans, 16 can; potatoes, 12 can; cranberry, 10 can; but-
ter, 5 can; soup, 5 can; sausage, J can; sugar, 48 lbs. ; tea,
2 lbs.; con. eggs, j cans; damsons, j cans.

Box containing tea, i^ full.

4 boxes cartridges, cal. 45.

2 boxes pepper (y) ? pajier pack.ige [leather. — A. W. G.]

I bag containing extract beef and chocolate (packages .//DiD/rt/c,
broken for l-t. Lockwood.)

1 can coffee.

I box alcohol (used from).

I box (can-coff«e).

I box alcohol.

I iirl. i)ilijt brea<l.

7 barrel bread [.said to be one barrel. — A. W. G.].

5 bags bread.

1 box alcohol.

I box onions.

I sack plain pemmican.

4 cans lime juice pennnican.

I bag small, louse pemmican, estimated 15 lbs,

I barrel sugar, partly full.

1 2 cans butter.

I coil rope.

I piece leather.

I sack bird bread.

V 1

Appendix No. 36. — Lieutenant Locku<ood\% orders fo- preliminary journey to Cape Becchey.

Fort Coxcer, Grinnell Land, Fihiuary 18, 1882.
Sui, You will proceed at 8 a. m., February 19 (unless the temperature sinks below —50" [—45.6" C.| or
the wer> Ji t i.s threatening), to depot B, near Cape Becchey, to ascertain if the condition of the ice in Robeson
Channel \. ill permit 1.)^ a speedy and satisfactory crossing to the Greenland coast. You will take the dug
sledge Antoiiuttt, with its team, and will be accotiipanied by Sergeant Brainard and the Eskimo Frederick.
Food for the dogs for five days will be carried, and such extra supplies for the de])Ot as can be taken without
seriou.sly impeding your progress. Any jjortion of supplies so taken can be cached en route at your dis-
cretion.

In case of fresh wind being experienced this side of depot A, you will return at once to the station, as
such exposure, with the present low temperature —43" [ — 41.7' C], with the sun yet absent, is deemed too
dangerous to be encountered except in an emergency. The details of the trip, otherwise than as above
mentioned, are left to your discretion,

A brief sledge journal will be kept, and a copy thereof submitted on your return, with such other reports
as you find necessary.

The minimum thermometer at depot B is to be read on your arrival, and both the actual and regis-
tered temperature noted. The thermometers will be read at even hours at such times as are convenient,
and will be set on your leaving the station.

Care will be taken to avoid over exertion, and to remedy any frost-bites in their incipiency. The foot-
gear must be changed nightly, especially if circumstances oblige you to camj) at depot A.

A. W. Greely,
Fi^st Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A, S. O, ard Assistant,

Commanding Expedition,
Second Lieut. James B. Lockwood,

Twenty-third Infantry, A, S. O.

*[l.t. T/Jckwood states that the contents of the above sacks comimse the same articles,
t[lS in original memorandum. — A. W. G.]

., are dujilicatcs. — A. W. G.]

m i twi i 'rt i ■***■*

THE LADY FRANKLIN ]?AY EXPEDITION.

143

Appendix No. 37. — Lieulenant Lockwood'' s report on joiiyury ordered in Appendix No. j6.

Fort CoNr.r.R, Grinnei.i, Land, February 24, 1882.

Sir: I have the honor, in compliance with your letter of instructions of February 18, to render the
following transcript of journal during my recent trij) to depot I>, made for the purpose of insi)ecting the ice
of the straits in that vicinity, with a view of finding a satisfactory crossing to Greenland. The party consisted
of Sergeant D. L. lirainard, the Eskimo Frederick, and myself, a dog sledge and eight dogs, rations, dog
food, &c., for five days, as per memoranda already submitted. No tent or sleeping-bags were taken, as each
night was to be spent at depot IJ.

February 19. — Party left station at 8.30 a. m. Reached depot A, near Cape Murchison, at 1 1.30 a. m.,
and dc[)ot 15, near Cape licechey, at 2.40 p. m. Weather during the day clear and cold, very little wind, or
none at all. The ice-foot from station to ilepot IJ, and the traveling generally is excellent. The snow tliis
side of Distant Cape, at Water-course, St. Patrick, and Shift Rudder Hays, where the route is on the ice-tloe
instead of the ice-foot, is packed hard and has few inequalities. The low temperature just now causes a
good deal of friction, making the sledge drag with difficulty; it was quite noticeable to-day. The lent at
depot A is down; otherwise everything there seems /;/ itatu ijtio. The snow at depot 15 has formed :i drift,
reaching from tlu' toj) of the little bluff just north of the snow house to some ilistance to the sou'h of it —
perliaps fifteen or twenty yards [14 or i8"'j; consecpiently the snow house and boat were comi)letely con-
cealed; the tent the same, excepting the ridge and a foot below it. There is at least 2 feet [■(•"■'■] of snow
on the roof of the snow house. In digging for the entrance of the tunnel through this snow, packed like slate,
the thermometer was unfortunately broken before it was discovered. Some snow found inside of tiie snow
house, having drifted through the small orifice adjoining the stovepipe. No tracks of wild animals noticed,
and none evidently had visited the jjlace.

Februaiy 20. — We all slept late this morning. I myself passed a cold night, ow ing jtartly to the bed-
ding and i^artly to the hole in the roof adjoining the stovepipe. This last has been remedied now. Breakfast
at II, after which Frederick was sent back with sledge to vicinity (jf St. Patrick Hay after bag of coal left
there since la?.t fall. At 12.30 Sergeant Ikainard and I started out on the ice of the straits and walked in a
general direction towards Polaris Promontory till 2.. 20, when we retraced our steps and reached the snow
house a little after 4. The ice hummocks and rubble-ice, covered with snow, extends from the shore some
distance through; beyond it level floes exist as far as can be seen. I did not feel satisfied with it as a route
for sledge,

February z\. — Breakfast at 8 o'clock. At 9.^0 Sergeant Brainard and I started again on the straits,
taking a direction from the snow house more to the north. We encountered the level Hoe-ice sooner, but
from ai)i)earances a better crossing seemed to be ofleretl from Cape Heechey ; so, on my return, taking Fred-
crick and his team, we proceeded to that place, reaching it in an iiour and ten minutes, i. e., at 12.10. We
got a good view from the sloping side of the cape, and then started out on the straits. After traversing a
distance hardly more than 200 yards [about 180"'] in a straight line the level tloe-ice was encouTitered,
On its hard covering of snow we traveleil along (juite rapidly till we were an hour's ride from the land
(directly across). From the toj) of a hummock a good view ahead showed the same ciiaracter of ice as far
as could be seen, and assured me that the best crossing of the straits is from Cajje Beechey. Od our return
we found it very cold. We reached the snow house again at 3.30 p. m.

February 22. — Left the snow house at 10 a. m., and reached the station, without event, at 2.45.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

J. 15. Lockwood,
Second Lii uienanf, Tiveuty-third Infantry, A. S. 0%
First Lieut. A. W. GreelYj

Fifth Cavaliy, A, S. 0. and Assistant, Commanding.

P \

)! i

1H I

ii!

* I

144

THE LADY FKANKLIN JiAY EXPEDITION.

Appendix No. 38. — Liculcnanl Lockivood^ s orders for journey to Thank (iod Harbor.

i I

tf ■

Fort Conger, Gkinnki.i, Land, February 28, 1882.

Sir; Weather permitting, you will leave this station at 8 a. ni., March i, for a trip to the Greenland
coast. You will take the dog-sledge AnloiiictU and will be acconiiianiud by Sergeants lirainard and Jewel!,
and the Eskimo, Frederick T. Christiansen. Private Long, with dog-sledge Lilla and F.skimo Jens Edwards,
will leave at the same time with sui)plies for depot 1$, near Cape Ileet hey, and will be under your orders
until directed by you to return. Ten days' allowance of provisions, fuel, and dog food for your party will be
taken from here, which will be supplemented by such addition from dej^ot IJ as can be carried without
materially impeding your progress across Robeson Channel.

Your first duty on the Greenland coast will be to visit the observatory at Thank God Harbor, in order
to ascertain exactly what supplies are available for sludge parties. A list of articles left !)y the J'<>/(iris
expedition has already been furnished you. It is important that the boat camp, in ravine about one mile east
of Cape Sumner, be visited, and the condition of the whale-boat be noted.

While it is very desirable that the condition of the ice from the boat camp across Newman l!ay to Gap
Valley should be examined, and that you should return to Cape IJeechey and di.ect from Cape lirevoort, it
is left to your judgment to abandon this part of the trip should adverse circumstances arise, or should you
think time could be gained for your spring work by so doing.

Points shouUl be selected with reference to the establishment of depots during the coining month.

On your return you will leave on the Greenland coast all suj)plies not indispensable to your com-
fortable and safe return to Cape Beechey.

As Sergeant Jewell will probably be charged with the support of your party during the spring, you
should communicate to him freely your views as to the best route and methods to be followed in such work.

Meteorological observations will be made on even hours, Washington mean time, when practicable.
In all cases the minimum temperature must be noted.

A brief sledge journal must be kept, which must show the hours of travel and rest, the hour of winding
the chronometer, daily comparisons of watches, and any matter of importance.
I am, sir, respectfully yours,

A. W. Greely,
First Lieutenant Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Expedition.

Second Lieut. J. B. Lockwood,

Twenty-third Infantry, Acting Signal Officer.

'i 1

Appendix No. 39. — Lieutenant Lockwood' s report on journey ordered in Appendix No. j8.

Fort Conger, Grinnei.l Lank, March 13, 1882.

Sin: I have the honor to render the following report on my late trij) to the Greenland coast, made
pursuant to your letter of instructions of the 28th of February.

The party consisted of myself, Sergeants Brainard and Jewell, the Eskimo Frederick, and his dog team
(eight dogs) and sledge. Private Long, with the Eskimo Jens and his dog team, ?cconipr>nied me as far as
Cape Beechey. A tent, one 4man sleeping-bag, ten days' rations, &c., all weighing three hundred and fifty
pounds, constituted the equipment, a list of which, with weights, I have already furnished you.

For the sake of convenience I embrace pretty much everything under the several dates of my sledge
journal.

March i. — At 8.10 a. m. left the station with Long, Jens, and the latter's team. The rest of the party
with the other sledge got off at 8 o'clock. Caught up with them near Distant Cape.

At 10.30 a. m. reached depot A. Here I put on Jcns's sledge a bag of coal, about one hundred and
fifty or two hundred pounds, and on the other the "signal can" of alcohol, about seventy-five pounds. Just
north of St. Patrick Bay I found the hag of pemmican and a box of alcohol and added them to the loads
of the two sledges.

THE LAUY FUANKLIX HAY EXPEDITION.

145

At 1.30 [). m. reached sikjw house, depot B. Frederick's sledge got in about one-tiuarter hour before
Jens's. Here I stopped for the night.

March 2. — At 6 a. ni. Long got up and cooked breakfast. At 8.13 a. ni. party got otit'. Yesterday's
load was diminished by the bags of coal anil penimican picked up en route. They were left at the snow
house. Packed on Jens'-, one of the bags of rations made up for Greenland, the contents of which you have.

At 9.30 a.m. arrived at Cape lieechey. Assured myself of the identity of Promontory Point as the
I)oint as laid down on the map as being the nearest. It bears S. 60 E. (true).

At 10.15 ^' "'• ''"''1 sledges were through the rough ice (extending scjmething less than one-(iuarter mile
from shore), and, everything being transferred to Frederick's slerlge, Long and Jens witii sledge started back
while the rest of tiie party jiroceeded. The load on one sledge must now have been about seven hundred
pounds.

At 11.28 a. 111. reached a hummock of the ancient ice-floe (the farthest of my tri[) with Sergeant
Urainard in February), betw een four and five miles from the shore. Ik'ing fearful of the sledge breaking down,
and knowing little of the route ahead, I here left the bag of provisions, [ilacing it conspicuously on the top
of the luininiock. It is on or (juite near a line from Ueechey to Promontory Point, by which I designate the
bold headland first below the gai) on the opposite coast. Delayed here ten minutes. This delay, with
fifteen minutes added, includes all the stops made in crossing. The character of the ice to this point is very
good indeed, the route being over a paleocrystic floe which is (piite level. The same may be said, with
some few exceptions, of the route for the next two hours, when it changes to an undulating surface with
deeper snow under)) ing a weak crust. However, the route is quite practicable and, on the whole, good.

At 3.05 p. ni reached rubble ice but got through and along quite readily; at 3.55 reached Greenland
shore at Promontory Point and ])itched tent on an ice-foot extending along shore a few hundred yards.

Miircli 3. — At 6.30 a. m. got up anil cooked breakfast; Sergeants Brainard, Jewell, and I do the
cooking in turn.

At 8,45 a. ni. started south. Inspection yesterday afternoon and this morning before starting con-
vinced me that no ice-foot exists along this coast. Later in the day I left the sledge on several occasions
for the same purpose but always with the same result. A snow slope exists here and there, but is often
interrujited by the Hoe- bergs, &c. We availed ourselves of level floes to a great extent, which sometimes
approach close to the shore, and made fair progress though not without the occasional use of the ax. The
travelii'g was found easier by keeping well out from the coast. Passed by three points, each of which we
t(jok for Cape Lupton as we approached it. On passing the last a wide plain came in view, extending
back from the coast a long way. We discovered a black object in the distance, and at 2.17 p. m. reached
the observatory and the wintering place of the Polaris. Passed the night in a hole dug in a snow-bank on
the beach, which made a warm, comfortable sleejiing place.

March 4. — The forenoon was occupied in taking an inventory of everything found. The list will be
found appended. Hall's grave is in good condition, the original wooden headboard and the Biitish head-
board being in position, and everytiiing apparently as when left. From a cairn near by 1 took a record
left by the English. The grave of Hand, of the English expedition, was seen, and is in good condition. The
range of hills which sweep in a circle from Cape Lupton to Lookout Mountain, and the range of mountains
to t'le south which extend from the strait to Newman Bay, were easily iilentified. The plain is (juite level
but covered by such a thin layer of snow in most places that the rocky, stony surface of the ground is much
exposed. Everything considered I thought it would be best to proceed from here to the mouth of Newman
Bay via the plain anil the head of the bay.

At 12.25 P- "1* went south down the coast with F'rederick and team and empty sledge, in order to find
the best place to strike in to the eastward. The want of snow threatened to prove a serious difficulty, I
had in mind also Lieutenant Beaumont's route acrosf After proceeding an hour and a half I found a small
ravine which promised to furnish a route, for some distance at least, off the coast.

At 2.50 p. m. got back to observatory. At 6 p. m. went to bed.

March 5. — At 6.15 a. m. called cook. At 10.10 a. m. got off. Left the telescope behind in the snow-
house constructed. I followed my tracks of yesterday, and at 1 1.30 got away from the beach and took an
easterly course. Had little difficulty on account of the want of snow, to my surprise ; though thin it seemed
packed hard on the ground, and with a little care we avoided the bare ground. I soon found another ravine
which enters the straits lower down. This became deeper and the country more broken until we emerged
H. Mis. 31)3 10

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TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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II, ■' ■■

146

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

on what is probably the water shed, an extensive plain stretching to the cast as far as could be seen. We
found this little broken by any deep watercourses, though the absence of snow was surprising. The
thermometer registered —55.5 [—48.6° C] and there was (juite a perceptible breeze blowiiig in our faces.

At 3.55 p. m. reached some deep snow in a shallow ravine west of an apparently isolated mountain,
towards which we had been traveling for one or two hours. Here we dug a hole through in 3^ or 4 feet
[i o" or 1.2"]. The ground was uncovered, the tent and poles were placed over it and snow over them, and
here we passed a warm night, though very much cramped for room.

March 6. — At 4.45 a. m. called cook ; at 9 a. m. got off, after digging out of our lodgings through the
snow. A heavy snow-storm had prevailed during the night. It was still snowing, and the nearest land-
marks were so obscure that traveling was by no means easy. The character of the country remained pretty
much the same, the wdter-courses, like prairie drains, running to the east.

At 11.15 a. m. reached what I took to be Newman Bay, a perfectly level expanse, covered with snow,
extending to the east, with nothing to break the surface but a group of rocks, which I thought might be an
island. But the driving snow did not allow us to see very far. The isolated mountain of yesterday seemed
to be the west extreme of a range of hills, the eastern end of which was to the north of us, and which I
thought must mark the west shorff of the bay. This point I made for, but soon discovered it was earth under
my feet instead of ice, and on reaching it found mountains to the northeast of us and the undulations of
land to the east.

Took from here a northeast direction.

At 1.05 p. m. strong wind and snow, making frost-bites frequent and traveling in its teeth very severe
work. I determined to burrow into a good snow-bank near by. It took two hours and ten minutes to build
our abode.

March 7. — The temperature being very low, and much wind, we remained in snow-burrow all day.

March 8. — Weather still very bad, but started out at 8 a. m., notwithstanding, to make an attempt. Frost-
bites became so frequent that I returned in the course of an hour. Observation of temperature of snow
house, opening (door) uncovered, no lamp, outside, —33° [—36.1° C.]; on floor, 6 feet [i-8"'] from door,
■\-^ [—16.1° C.]; 2)4 feet f.76'"] above floor, +31° [— o.6°C.]; roof, between five and six feet [1.5 and
1.8"*] high, temperature, when lamp was burning, +36° [+2.2° C.j only. Just previous to this, however,
a hole was cut in the roof and a piece of canvas placed over it to serve as a window, candles having been
forgotten, and none brought on trip. The temperature, doubtless, afterwards got much higher than this.
These experiments were performed just after return of the party.

March 9. — At 3.35 a. m. cook arose; at 5.15 a. m. breakfast; at 6.45 a. m. got off, and followed a
slight surface drain, which gradually became a wide and deep ravine, leading us in a generally northeast
direction (very winding). In this ravine, not far from the bay, four ptarmigan were seen. Here also I shot
a hare.

At 9.20 a. m. on shore of Newman Bay ; Reynold's Island not to be distinguished. I think we must
have been some distance up the west coast. The whole bay is smooth and level. The snow on its surface
hard. We traveled along very satisfactorily, though all had to walk. Yet the load consisted of little else
than tent and sleeping-bag. The low temperature seemed to cause great friction. On little patches of ice
met with, the sledge moved along very smoothly indeed. We walked almost continuously during the entire
trip. There is no ice-foot along this coast.

At 3 p. m. reached Boat Camp. Found readily the whale-boat and the canvas boat. The former has
one-half dozen oars by her side. Did not turn her over for want of time, and not regarding it as necessary.
These boats are substantially as described in the English reports. The hole in the bottom of the whale-boat
is hardly larger than one's hand ; otherwise the boat seemed in good order and condition. Examined the
bottom carefully.

At 4.15 p. m. reached a point at or quite near Cape Sumner, when we pitched the tent. The route
from the Boat Camp here lies on a snow slope behind a row of heavy floe-bergs. The route could be made
practicable for loaded sledges, only with several hours' work, I exercised my discretion and did not go
to Gap Valley or Cape Brevoort. I think the depot should be cither at the former or at the Boat Camp
and both are inside the rough ice which crowds into the mouth of the bay from the straits. All inside of
this line the ice is smooth and level. There seems to be a good route over some level floes which extended
from the straits into the bay about midway between the two capes. Between the Boat Camp and Cape
Sumner, extending some hundred yards from the shore, the ice is of the roughest description.

THE LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

147

March lo. — Last night was cold and unconafortable in the extreme. Tlie sleeping-bag was unrolled
with difficulty, and with as much labor we wedged our way in between the frozen folds.

At 3 a. m. cook arose. I deposited the tent and poles, sleeping-bag, one spade, one shovel, one snow
knife, and a piece of cooked musk meat (about ten pounds) on the side of a small ravine or break in the
cliffs, about too yards [91*"] west of Cape Sumner, or at least west of my camping place, and in a con-
spicuous position.

At 6.55 a. m. left camp and took a direct route for Cape Beechey. For some hours we traveled over
level floes; then we encountered the undulating surface of paleocrystic floes, and afterwards made slow and
laborious progress through rubble ice ; then for an hour or two we traveled over a perfectly smooth, level
floe. It coming on to blow and snow, so as to shut out even the nearest land, I inclined more to the right,
and, after about an hour through bad rubble ice, at 3. 15 a. m., reached the Grinnell Land shore, about a mile
above Cape Beechey, traveling principally over a snow slope.

At 3.45 a. ra. passed our outward tracks at old crossing.

At 5.20 a. m. reached snow house (depot 6). The level floes which I speak of as encountering in the
morning, seemed to extend south in a course nearly parallel to the coast, and probably as low as the Gap.
I think that the best route to Cape Sumner lies in my original tracks across tRe straits till, perhaps, two hours
from Promontory Point and the Gap, and then in taking advantage of the level floes which I have men-
tioned as extending south from Cape Sumner. My trail from Cape Sumner to Cape Beechey is not practi-
cable for loaded sledges without much work with the ax.

March 11.— At 8.30 a. m. called cook; at 11. 10 a. m. got off; at 2.05 p. m. passed depot A; at 5.15
p. m. arrived at statjon.

Appended will be found the meteorological report of Sergeant Jewell, as also the list of stores at Thank
God Harbor.

Very respectfully,

J. B. LOCKWOOD,

Second Lieutenant, Twenty-third Infantry, A. S. 0.

First Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

J'i/th Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding International Polar Expedition.

'1 • '»'

List of stores at Thank God Harbor and their condition.

yi barrel wheat, apparently good.

2 Enfield rifles (1862), apparently good.

^ canister gunpowder, small grain, in 100-pound canister,
serviceable.
900 rounds Springfield cartridges, metal, cal. 50, apparently
good.
1,000 cartridges, center primed, Nary pistol, cal. 50, apparently

goo<l.
1,000 cartridges, center primed, Navy pistol, cal. 50, apparently

good.
1,000 cartridges, center primed. Navy pistol, cal. 50, apparently
good.
8 brass hinges, 4 brass rowlocks, 6 brass castings, 8 brass

castings, 2 brass hooks, good.
I steel fox-trap, good.
I pickax, without handle, good,
a saws, carpenter's, good.
^ hatchets, good.
I shovel, good.

3 shovels, bad.

I box farina (about 30 or 40 pounds), Polarii, apparently
good.

I barrel cornmeal (of yellow color), gocu. (?)

6 cans pemmican (45-pound cans) for men to eat, good.

I hammer, machinist's, good.

I mattress (single), much worn.

1 S-nian tent. (?)

^ barrel lime juice, good.
}i barrel pork (mess), bad.

2 water-breakers (iMjats), good.

I grindstone (lietween 1 2 and 20 inches diameter), good.

1 bag tea (in liarrel), spoiled.

3 shovels, bad.

2 dozen lead in straps, good.
I 12-man sledge, good.

I 5-man sledge, good.
10 barrels hard bread. (?)
I small box minie-ball cartridges and caps, apiiarently good.

3 coverlets, felt, good.

I wateq>roof floor cloth (for s-man tent), serviceable.
3 35-pound bags No. 2 shut, good.
I 25-puund bag No. 3 buckshot, good.
3 volumes " Punch," bound, good,
I book (— — ), good.

148

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

List of stores at Thank God Harbor and their condition — Continued.

I book (Eulalic) good.
I book (Koul riay), good.

1 book (Albert Nyanza) by Baker, good.

About 3 dozen panes gla^.., about 8 x lo, 8 x 12, &c., good.

2 snow knives, good.
I tent brush, good.

I 1k>x shotgun cartridges (center primed), apparently good.
I 20.root ice-boat (complete), apparently, as well as could be

a.scertained without turning her over (she lays bottom

up), excellent.

I .<itove (cog-wheels and spindle), apparently good.

I coil insulated wire on large iron cylinder. I can rum

(English can al>out si/e of signal can and has about 3

inches in bottom), excellent.

1 sledge trough, serviceable.
II crowbars (iron), good.

3 blue scar|>s, good.

2 cooking-lamps, good.

It should be added that as thorough an inspection as desirable of everything was not obtained, a cold
wind with snow making such work very severe.

The observatory -has three sides standing; the floor is also all right; the roof is gone. There are
several planks and other debris scattered around, which probably once formed part of the observatory.
Enough of these remain, I think, to complete the building once more. All stuff in the observatory was
moved out and afterwards replaced and covered as well as practicable. Covered the barrels of hard
bread with old canvas; their heads are all out.

Date.

! Mar. I
I Mar. 2
Mar. 2
I Mar. 2
i Mar. 3

Mar. 3
Mar. 4

Mar. 5

Mar. s

Mar. 6

Mar

liar

Meteorological report of sledge party to Cape Sumner,

Time.

p. m.
a. m.
a. m.
13 p. m.
a. m.

p. m.
a. m.

a. m.

29. 68'

i m.

29.50

p. m.

29.42

p. m.

29.50

a.m.

29-57

a. m.

29.52

p. m.

29.50

a. m.

29.42

29.28

p. m.

29.29

a. m.

29.41

a. m.

29.69

lSp.m.

Marumetcr

No. -.

In.
29.65
29.36
29.04
28. 96
29.03

29- 54
29.65

753 -'o
745-73
737-<H>
735-57
737-35

753-86
749 29
747 25
749.29
75'-o<'
749-79
749.29
747 25
743-70
743-95
747.00
754.11

Thermometer
No. I.

Fahr.
—18.0

-36. o
-35- o
— 37-0
—36.0

750.30 —25.0
753- 'o — 37-0

—SO. 5
—55- 5
—52.0
5'o
-36. 5
—49-5
—44.0
-42.

-35.
30.

"33'

—34.

-39

—40

C.
-27.8

-37 8
-37-2
-38.3
-37-8

-31 -7
-38.3

-45.8
-48.6
-46.7
—46. 1
38<i

45-3

- 42.2

41 . 1

-37 2

—34-4
—36.4

-36 -7

-39-4

—40.0

Wind.

SE. Brisk.
NE. I Light.

NE.
NE.
NE.

NE.
NE.

NE.
S.

NE.
NE.
NE.
NE.
NE.
NE.
NE.
NK.
NE.
NE.
NE.

Light.
Light.
Light.

Brisk.
Eresh.

Light.
Light.
Light.
Light.
Fresh.
Fresh .
Brisk.
Brisk.
Brisk.
Brisk.
Brisk
Light
Light,

o
I

Lt. snow
Clearing
Fair .„
Fair .,.
Cloudy .

Fair

Fair ...

Cloudy .

Lt. snow
! Foggy.
1 Clou<ly
I Cloudy

Minimum
thermometer.

Fahr,

-38
—45

-37

— 5«

-52

-38-9
-42."8'

-38.6

— 46. 1

46.7
•07

-43
-35

-41.7
-37-2

Remarks.

At depot B.

Do.
On the straits.

Do.
On Greenland coast,
north of C.Lupton.
Thank Go<l Ha ' ■ ir .
Thank God I ■ K>r.
Early ofthe morning
of the 4th a heavy
gale prevailed at
Thank God Harbor,
and also during the
night of the 5th.
East of Hall's Rest.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.

Newman Bay.

f,.-'*i

THE LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

149

1 I

Appendix No. 40. — English records obtained af fhoiik God Harbor.

[Arctic Expedition. H. M. S. Di%ccn<ery at Bellot Harbour. Lat. 81° 44' north, long, 65" 3' west. 31

March, 1876.]

This paper is deposited by a sledge party, under Lieut. R. Archer of the Discm<ery, who came over to
see the state of the provisions in depot here. I'he things seem to be good and serviceable. The following
things were found here :

1, i

1,125 pounds pemmican (two-thirds sweet).
1,152 pounds preserved meat.
24 barrels of bread.
3 casks of pork.

2 casks of hams.

3 bags of bread.

We crossed straight over from Bellot Harbour to Cape Lupton and found the ice better in the middle
but difficult travelling at the sides.

RoHKRT H. Archer, Lieut.

2 cases farina.

2 casks of lime juice.

I cask of molasses.

An observatory rather dilapidated, some few arti-
cles of clothing, two stoves, and a few other
sundries.

Start, on our return to the ship, to-day, Ap. 2d. We leave m the observatory 10 rations of bread and 45
rations of stearine.

R. H. A.

PRINTED RECORD. .

[H. M. S. Discovery, winter quarters, Bellot Harbor. Lat. 81 44 N., long. 65 3 14 W.]

On the 15th July, 1875, H. M. S. A /ert and Diseorery left Disco for Rittenbenk, arriving there on the
16th. Left on the 17th for Proven, passing through the Waigatt Channel. Anchored at Proven on the
19th. Embarked Hans Christian; left on the 21st, steaming inside the islands of Upernivik on the 22d,
left again the same evening by the northern entrance, experienced dense fogs until discharging the native
pilot of? Kingatok on the 23d. Then shaped course to the northward of Brown Island, which was abeam
at 4.30 p. m.; weather fine, clear, and calm. At 3.10 a. m. of the 24th ran into the middle pack ice of
Melville Bay, lat. 73° 30' N., long. 60° W., approx., patent log showing 63 miles frotn Brown Island. Ice
from 2 to 6 feet [.6 to 1.8'" J thick, but much decayed. Steamed thiough the bay in 36 hours without diffi-
culty, A/ert proceeding to the Carey Islands and Discmery to Cape York ; the two ships joined off the Carey
group at midnight of the 26th. By 6 a. m. of the 27th, both vessels were on their way to Port Foulke,
passing between Hakluyt and Northumberland Islands. Anchored in Hartstene Bay on the 28th. Cap-
tain Nares visited Littleton Island. Left Hartstene Bay on the 29th for Ca[e Isabella, v^/^-r/ erecting a
cairn south of that cape, and Discwery proceeding to Cape Sabine, where we were detained till the 4th of
August (Smith Sound being completely blocked up with ice) ; rounded Cape Sabine and j roceedcd up
Hayes Sound, intending if possible to pass to the westward of Henry Island} finding no passage we retraced
our steps on the 6th, and secured to the Ice in Franklin Pierce Bay on the 8th. Left again on the 9th, and
made fast to floe under Cape Prescott till the nth. Cut into dock in Dobbin Bay on the 13th.

Rounded Cape Napoleon on the 15th, and experienced great difficulty in getting to Cape McClintock,
which was not reached till the 20th, lat. 80° 3' N., long. 70° 37' W. On the 21st observed open water in
midchannel ; we took advantage of it until reaching Joe Island, when a barrier of ice extending from Cape
Moreton to Grinnell Land stopped further progress. Anchored in Bessell's Bay on the 23d. Left again
on the 24th, unable to get to the northward of Newman Bay. We closed the SE. corner of Grant's L.nnd,
entering a large and deep bay on the north side of Lady Franklin's Strait named Bellot Harbour, the winter
quarters of H. M. S. Discin<ery. The Alert left on the 26th, having embarked Lieut. Rawson, with 7 men
and sledge complete, from this ship. The Diuoi'ery was frozen in on the 5th of September; no autumn
sledging to the northward in Robeson Channel, or Lady Franklin's Strait to the westward, in consequence
of water along the shore, as well as the sludgy state of the ice, which rendered it impracticable for either
boat or sledge to make any progress.

\ -\

. <•!? !

1 ^ fli ,

'-, %

, i

I Si

ill

150

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

We lost the sun on the i6th Oct., 1875, until the 29th Feb., 1876, making 135 days absent.

The winter was passed pleasantly and cheerfully, with very little sickness. The country abounds in
musk-oxen, hares, ptarmigan, snow-bunting and lemmings, with two sorts of seals in the bay, so that we
have had a liberal supply of fresh meat. The weather has been very cold but fine and calm. Our position
is so well sheltered that we have only experienced two heavy gales. We have heard nothing of the Alert
since August, 1875. Expect news before the ist of April (1876). Intend visiting Hall's Rest when prac-
ticable.

All well up to this date.

|H. F. Stephenson], C<///<M«.

2sth March, 1876, received news, .^^/zfr/ wintered in lat. 82 27 N., long. 61 22 W. All well. Parties

from Alert exploring north coast of Grinnell Land, and due north over Polar pack. Parties from Discin>ery

exploring North Greenland and Peterman Fiord. Lady Franklin Straits is a deep sound bearing S. W., 60

miles, terminating in two small bays. All well to this date.

H. F. Stephenson, Captain.

10 May, 1875.

Lieut. Fulford and Sub-Lieut. Conybeare, with 18 men and 2 ice-boats, arrived here at 2 a. ni. of the
1 2th May, 1876, having left H. M. S. Discovery at 8 p. m. of the 7th inst.

Capt. Stephenson, Mr. Hart (naturalist), Henry Petty, and Hans Christian (Esquimaux), with dog-
sledge, arrived at 2 a. m. of the 12th May, having left Discin<ery at 8 p. m. of the 10th inst.

Dr. Coppinger, with Geo. Emnierson and 8 men in two sledges arrived herefrom "Refuge Harbour"
at 7.30 p. m. of the 15th May, 1876. Dr. Coppinger parted company with Lieuts. Beaumont and Rawson
on the 5th May, at Cape Stanton, their party being all well. Geo. W. Emmerson left H. M. S. AJertaX
Floe-berg Beach on the 2d inst., in lat. 82° 27', long. 61° 22' W.

Capt. Stephenson, Sub-Lt. Conybeare, Mr. Hart, and party of 27 men, left this harbor at 8.10 a. m., of
the 17th May, 1876, for H. M. S. Discovery, Discovery Bay. All well.

Lieut. Fulford, accompanied by Dr. Coppinger, 2 men, and dog-sledgfr, leave at 10 a. m., this day, the
17th May, for Newman Bay, with depot for Lieut. Beaumont.

R. B. Fulford, Lieut., R. N.

Polaris Bay, May 17, 1876.

June yd — Lieut. Rawson arrived, with party of 4 men, having left Lieut. Beaumont about 40 miles along
the coast, N. E. from Repulse Harbor. Lieut. Rawson was sent back from the advance party with J. J.
Hand, A. B., suflfering from scurvy, who died the night of his arrival here.

yune ith. — Lieut Fulford, Dr. Coppinger, and party returned from Peterman Fiord ; they advanced to a
distance of 30 miles, but were eventually stopped by glacier ice.

yune 22//. — Lieut. Rawson and Dr. Coppinger, with dog-sledge, proceeded in search of Lieut. Beaumont
and party (due at Hall's Rest, Polaris Bay, June 15th); Lieut. Rawson met the party in Newman Bay June
25th, the whole of them being sick with scurvy, 4 having to be carried on the sledge.

yune 29M. — Dr. Coppinger, with Wm. Jenkins, Car Ute, and Chas. W. Paul, A. B., on dog-sledge, arrived
at Hall's Rest at 12.30 a. m. ; Chas. W. Paul, A. B., died that afternoon at 5.15 p. m.

yuly \st. — Lieuts. Beaumont and Rawson, with remainder of party (two carried), arrived safely at Hall's
Rest, Polaris Bay.

yuly 12M. — Lieut. Fulford, with dog-sledge, proceeded to H. M. S. Discm'ery, Discovery Bay (Bellot
Harbor).

yuly igt/i. — Captain Stephenson, with party of 6, arrived from the ship.

yuly 2()th. — Intend leaving, with Lieut. Rawson and 7 men, for Discovery today. All invalids doing
well. Lieutenant Beaumont, with remainder of party, hope to follow in a week.

H. F. Stephenson, Captain.

July 29th, 1876.

Augt. 1th. — Start to-day for Discovery Bay, accompanied by Dr. Coppinger and remainder of party (7);

have waited since Ftiday (4th) on account of the very bad weather. Great quantity of ice has gone down

the strait during this last gale.

L. A. Beaumont, R. N., Lt.

TQE LADY FBAKRLIK BAV EXPEDITION.

151

[H. M. S. Discovery, Winter (quarters, Bellot Harbour. Lat. 8i 44 N., Long. 65 3 14 W.]

H. F. Stei'HENson, Captain,
Duplicate of /r/ ////•</ rftor^/ on page 149:

Match 28, 1876.

Received news oi Alert on 2sth March, '76. She wintered in the pack off the west coast of Robeson
Channel, lat. 82° 27' N., long. 61° 18' 15" W., close to the shore. "All well." Three sledgps will follow
the north coast of Grant's Land, now trending to the N. W., and this party endeavours to proceed to the
northward over the ice. Parties from the Discovery will explore the north coast of Greenland and Lady
Franklin's Straits.

H. F. S.

[Arctic Expedition, H. M. S. Alert, Floe-berg Beach, 82° 27' N., 61° 22' W., 30th April, 1876.)

MEMORANDUM.

The supplies of stores and provisions left in depot at Polaris Bay by the late American Arctic Expe-
dition may be used if retjuisite by any travelling party arriving there from the Alert or Discovery. The
commander of each party is held responsible that no waste or damage of either the provisions or fuel occurs
during his stay. He is to separate from the stores such supplies as may be re<iuired to place his crew on
the regulated scale of rations, and secure the remainder in the best manner possible. A book will be
left at the store in which the commanding officer is to note the date of his arrival at and departure from
the depot and the quantity of supplies he has used. He should also note any information in his possession,
relating to the stores or the neighborhood, which might prove of value to future visitors. A copy of eac'u
entry in the store book is to be given to his commander on the return of the party to their ship.

G. S. Nares, Capt. H. TV., Comdg. Arctic Expdn.

To Captain Stephenson, H. M. S. Discin<e>y, and all in command of sledge parties arriving at the
Polaris Bay depot.

Provisions in depot, 12th May, 1876: Preserved meat (?),• 926; American, 1,035; biscuits (all good)
1,990; tea, 356; hams, 570; stearine, 182; cask Indian meal, i; cask wheat, 1; cask of pork, 1 ; cask of
molasses, ^; casks of lime-juice, 2; cask of pickles, i.

R. B. FuLFOKU, Lt.

Depot left in boats, for Lt. Beaumont, consisting of 7 days for 1 7 men, or 1 1 9 rations, with the excep-
tion of pemmican, biscuit, tea, and bacon.

R. B. Fui.FORD, Lt.

Polaris Bay, i i May, '76, 2 a. m.
Lieut. R. B. Fulford and Sub- Lieut. Conybeare, with 18 men and 2 ice-boats, arrived from H. M. S.
Discovery, Discovery Bay, lat- 81° 44' N., long. 65° 03' (?) W. Capt. Stephenson arrived same time
with dog-sledge and 3 men. Issued, by his order, the following provisions to the party : Preserved (?) meat,
19; biscuits, 108 (?); tea, 2; stearine, 28; hams (?), 48; molasses (?), 4; pemmican (?), 85.

R. B. Fulford, Lieut.

I sM May, 7.30 /. w.— Dr. Coppinger, Geo. Emmerson, and C. Bell arrived from Repulse Harbour.
Issued, by Capt. Stephenson's order, depot for (?) Lieut. Beaufort: Biscuit, 42; tea, — ; ham (in lieu
bacon) 12; pemmican, 48; stearine, 9.

Additional provisions, issued by Capt. Stephenson's order: Preserved meat, 25; biscuit, 16; tea, — ; pem-
mican, 12; ham (in lieu bacon), 6.

Crawford Conybeare, Sub-Lieut.

Issued by order of Capt. Stephenson to Lieut. Fulford laying out depot isth May, '76: Pemmican, 20;

biscuit, 17^ ; stearine — ; preserved (?) meat (?), 6.

R B. Fulford, //.

*Only letter- press copies of these records brought back, which, having been wet, are in places illegible. A. W. G.

i ■•■\'

Wli

11 r

: M

[■

152

THE LADY PRAKKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Provisions, depot, —th May, '76: Preserved meat, 367; pemmican, 955; biscuit, 1,925 (?); tea, 30 10^;
ham, 258; stearine, 160 (?); cask wheat, i; cask molasses (?), i; cask Indian meal, i; kegs lime-juice, 2;
pickles, I.

17//4 May, 1876. — Issued by order of Capt. Stephenson: Preserved meat, 28; ham (in lieu bacon), 12;
tea, 23 oz; stearine, 84.

Crawford Convbeare, Sub-Lt.

Lt. Fulford, Sub-Lt. Conybeare, with 18 men and 2 ice-boats (20 ft. and 15 ft.), arrived here 2 a. m. of
the 1 2th May, 1876, from H. M. S. Discorrry, having left the ship 8 p. m., 7th inst. Captain Stephenson,
Mr. Hart (naturalist), Henry Petty, and Hans Clnistian (Esk.), with dog-sledge, arrived at 2 a. m. on the
i2th May, 1876, having left Discovery 8 p. m., loth.

Dr. Coppinger, with Geo. Emmerson with 8 men and 2 dog-sledges, arrived from Repulse Harbour
at 7.30 p. m. on the 15th May, 1876, the former having left Lts. Beaumont and Rawson at Cape Stanton on
the 5th of May. All well. The latter from H. M. S. Alert at 1 1 p. m., on the 2d inst., Floeberg Beach,
lat. 82O 27' N., long. 610 22' W.

May ijtA, 1876. — Capt. Stephenson, Mr. Hart (naturalist) Sub-Lt. Conybeare, and 27 men left at 8
a. m. this day for H. M. S. Disctwery, Discovery Bay. All well. Placed, by captain's orders, record 20 ft.
magnetic N. of Hall's grave.

Lt. Fulford, accompanied by Dr. Coppinger, 2 men, and dog-sledge, leave at 10 a. m. this day foi; New-
man Bay with depot for Lt. Beaumont.

May 2is(, 1876. — At 2 a. m. I returned with Dr. Coppinger and 2 men with dog-sledge from Newman
Bay, having laid depot of 48 rations on the south side of that bay, about 40 yards from the ice-foot and
marked by a flag. This on the west side of a small gully. Dr. Coppinger and his sledge came up.

May 22Hif, 1876. — Took from depot: Pemmican, 220 lbs.; stearine, 15 (?) lbs.; hams, 32 lbs.; pre-
served meat, 6 lbs. ; molasses, i ; lime-juice, 2.

. I intend leaving at 9 p. m., the 22d of May, 1876, with 16 days' provisions, to explore Petermann's Fiord.

Reginald B. Fulford, Lt. R. JV., H. M. Sledge Faith.

yune 2nd, 1876, 9 a. m. — I .arrived here with O'Regaii and Rayner walking, having come in to fetch
provisions, only being . . . and Hand and Bryant about 2 miles to the south. Have carried Hand
on sledge (with scurvy) since May 19. Bryant has not been able to pull from on May 10. All well. Have
taken pemmican, 4 lbs.; preserved meat and vegetables, 4 lbs.; biscuit, 4 lbs.; rum, 2 gills; ham (t).
About one-half lb. lime-juice, frozen.

Am going back at once to sledge, which I hope to bring up to-morrow, but snow is very heavy, and my
men are (?) at (?) her (?) done (?), so I may not be here till the 4th. I left Repulse Harbor May 20th.

WvAiT Rawson, Lieut. R. N., H, M. SUdge.

yune 5 (?), 1 87-, \p. m. — Arrived here with sledge Discovery Ham'l (?), Bryant, and Regan.

WvAiT Rawson.

yune, 187-. — Took from depot : Biscuit, 29 lbs. (?) ; stearine, 9 lbs. ; teas (?), i y^ lbs. ;
lime-juice, — lbs.; preserved meat, 14 tins, or 32 (?) lbs.

-, 16 lbs.

WvATT Rawson, Lt,

\ i;

THE LADY FRANKLIN IJAY EXPEDITION.

153

yune 7, 6.30 a. m, — Lieut. R, R. Fulford, arcompanicd by Dr. Coppinger, L., and 8 dogs, arrived with
H. M. sledge Fai/A from exploring Peterman Fiord.

WvATT Rawson.

j^unf 14, 1876. — Provisions drawn : Preserved mgat, 84 ll)s. ; ham, 2 ; biscuit, 14 lbs. ; stearine, 1 1 lbs. ;

molasses, 1 2 lbs.

WvATT Rawson.
I

yi/rtf 21, 1876. — Provisions drawn up to this date from depot: Preserved meat, "jfi lbs. ; biscuits, 56
lbs.; stearine, 6^ ; hams. 2 ; molasses, 4 gallons; tea (?), 2 (?) lbs.

WvATT Rawson.

yi/ne 22n/f, 1876. — I intend leaving, in company with Dr. Coppinger, for Newman Hay, to meet Lieut.
Beaumont and party, who are only provisioned for the 27th of June. I am takmg Hans and H dogs and
16 days' provisions.

Have drawn from depot: Pemmican (sweet), 180 lbs.; pemmican (plain), 45 lbs.; biscuit, 42 lbs.;
stearine, 20 lbs.; molasses, 16 lbs.; tea, 3^ lbs.; lime-juice, 4^3 pt. (?); rum (for medicinal use), 3^ galls.

WvATT Rawson.

Provisions remaining in depot 3rd July, 1876: Preserved meat, 529 lbs.; pemmican, 466 lbs ; stearine
82 lbs. 4 oz,; tea, 20 lbs. 10 oz.; lime-juice, i^ carbs (?); molasses, (nearly) yi cask (?).

y^'/n^ 28, rt/ 1 1.4s p. m.: Dr. Coppinger arrived with an 8-man sledge and dogs, .iccompanied by Hans,
carrying two of Lieut. Beaumont's sledge crew, with scurvy, C. I'aul, A B., L. Jenkins, carpenter mate.

Reginald B, Fulkoru, Z/.

1st yit/y, 7 a. m. — Arrived at Hall's Rest. Lieut. Beaumont, Alexander Grey and

930, arrived, Lieut. Rawson, accompanied by Hans. They brought in the 8-man sledge drawn by the
dog , on which were Peter Craig.

Kxpendea besides (?) used (?) 3 July .md 12 : Preserved meat, 2 lbs ; stearine, 2 lbs.; biscuit, 100 lbs.;
tea, I lb. I oz.i pemmican, 93 lbs.; lime-juice.

Between 21 June and 3 July, 1876: Preserved meat(?), 98 lbs. ; American meat (?), 40 lbs.; stearine,

8 lbs.; biscuit, 53 lbs.; tea, i lb. i^ oz.; ham, i lb.; lime-juice, 3^ galls.; molas.ses (?),

R. B. FuLFORn, Lt.

Expended between July 12 and July 19 — i, from depot (?) : Preserved meat, 1 20 lbs. (4 lbs. bad) ; biscuit,
70 lbs.; tea, 2 Ib.s.; ham (2), 24 lbs.

In depot, July 20; Preserved meat, 316 lbs. ; pemmican, 371 lbs.; biscuit, 165 lbs. ; tea, 17 lbs.; ham_

9 (108 lbs.) ; preserved meat and vegetables, 4 lbs.; molasses, 4 doz. (?) casks (?).

Provisions drawn, up to July 27, 1876 (?): Pemmican, 30 (?) lbs.; jjreserved meat, ic6 lbs.; biscuit
106 lbs. ; stearine, 20 lbs.; tea, 4 lbs. ; ham, 4 (hams), 48 lbs.

Provisions, in depot, July 28: Pemmican, 340 lbs.; preserved meat, 2r8 lbs.; biscuit, 1,545 lbs.; tea.

13 lbs. ; hams, 5 (60 lbs.); molasses, very Utilf..

L, A, Beaumont, L(,

, ,

.il;l

I I'll

Stowed in the house, August 4, 1876 . 14J4 ca.sks (?) of bread. American; 3/^ cask (?) of meat, Amer-
ican ; i/^ cask (?) of meal, Indian coin (?), Amerijan; i case and 6 packets (?) (1 lb.) farina, American (?),
(56 lbs.); 9 tins preserved meat, 68 lbs ; 6 cans (?) pemmican (35 lbs. (?), American, + 10 lbs.), 28 (?);

10 lbs. tea; 2 6-men tents, with gage (?); 2 (?) cooking-stoves, complete, but (?); 2 lamps, i

stearine and i spirit (?) ; 3 pemmican-choppers ; 6 water-bottles (?) (out of repair) ; i saw ; 5 (?) snow-knives;

I' b

164 TUK LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

3 shovels; ami i spoon; i ladle; i pickax (no (?) handle); i hammer (American); i pair of shoes

(?) and I ohl (?) hoot (?), (American) (?) ; i case of pistol ammunition (?), American ; i Sharps rifle ; i mag-
azine; — bags of shot (American) ; 7 oilskin coats; i 8-man triangle; 1 8man bottom (?).

Provisions from Disuwery: 1^ galls, rum (in 3-gall. tins (?)); 5 lbs. of sugar; 12 lbs. of stearine; 3
boxes matches (right-hand corner window).

'lent furniture: 2 Lower robes (5-man); i coverlet (s-man); i waterproof (5-man) ; i canvas floor-cloth.

Miscellaneous articles: 2 Punches (vols.); 3 books, Foul Play, Eulales (?), Albert Nyanza; i box

English ammunition, 45 Snider and 24 gun; i box — : soap, with , &c.; 2 8-man-tent guys; 2

8-man-tent spreaders; i box gla.ss fla.sks (American); empty spirit can; 2 (?) galls; 2 (?) galls; i No. 9 flag;

1 old drawing-block, few leaves; 1 g. (?) trap, good working order; i cxtrang (?) old pair Aa. (?) boots;

2 Snider rifles.

Outside house, west side: i cask lime-juice (American); 1 barrel of pork; 2 provisions breakers
(American) ; 3 cork cushions; old iron, assorted; 3 rolls bar lead; i roll insulator wire; 4 dredges; crowbars
at/ libitum.

South side: 12-man sledge (with boat bottom); 5-man sledge (trough and bottom) ; 4 8-man (?) cushion
bottoms; 2 12-foot oars (t 5-foot ice-boat); 2 paddles; 2 sail, (la-man and 8-man, new); 5 8-man bottom ;

3 hatchets.

North side : 1 20-foot ice-boat, complete.

L. A. Beaumont, ZA, R. N.

[Her Majesty's sledges Stephenson and Alert, 12 May, '76, at Boat Camp, south shore, Newman Bay.]
The above-named sledges, with party numbering ten, arrived here at 10 a. m., Wednesday, the loth May,
1876, having crossed the Brevoort JV-ninsula from Repulse Bay via the (Jap Valley, having visited and
removed record from Hall's cairn.

Newman Bay on the way. Bound for Polaris (?) Bay via Newman (?) Bay and the south overland
route. Been (?) snow (?) bound up to the present time. We have examined the boats an<l tents left here
by the U. S. North Polar Exjiedition, and are about transporting with us to Polaris Bay such instruments
and documents as we can carry. We can find only 7 lbs. oatmeal, i in the tent by the mouth of the ravine,
20 lbs. of biscuit in the lockers of the whale-boat which lies on the shingle. We find that the whaler can
easily be repaired so as to be a good, serviceable boat, and we leave attached to the cylinder a box of copper
tacks, with the aid of which and a piece of canvas or oilcloth or hide (all available), the damaged part in
the bluflf of her starboard bow can be made good. We cannot discover more than one seat. From this
cairn the tent bears S. by W. about 400 yards [366"'], the whale-boat SW. by S. about 100 yards [91""], the
canvas boat SW. by W. 20 yards [18"']. We find the 6 oars of the canvas boat. We removed the oars and
placed them on the SW. larboard side* of the whale-boat, not being able to find any oars belonging to
whale-boat. We hope to start to-day for Polaris Bay. H. M. S. Alert has been wintering at Floe-berg
Beach, lat. 82° 27' N., and H. M. S. Diswery at Bellott Harbor, in lat. 81° 43'.

R. W. CoppiNGER, M. D., Surgeon.

[31 Mch., 1876. H. M. S. Discovery at Bellot Harbor. Lat. 81° 44' north, long. 65° 03' W.]
This paper is deposited by a sledge party under Lieut. R. Archer, of the Discovery who came over to

see the state of the provisions in depot here. The things seem to be good and serviceable.

The following things were found here: 1,125 lbs. pern mican (yi sweet); 1,152 lbs. preserved meat ;

24 bbls. bread ; 3 casks pork ; 2 casks hams ; 2 bags bread ; 2 cases farina ; 2 casks lime-juice ; i cask

molasses.

An observatory rather dilapidated. Some few articles of clothing. Two stoves and a few other

sundries. We crossed straight over from Bellott Harbor to Cape Lupton and found the ice better in the

middle but diflicult travelling at the sides.

RoBT. H. Archer, Lt.

Start on our return to the ship to-day, April and. We leave in the observatory 10 rations of bread

and 45 rations of stearine.

R. H. A.

yuly, 1876. — [Letter-press copy illegible.]

1 !

THK LADY FttANKLiN BAY EXPBDITIOK.

155

Atarch, 1876. — [F-etter-prcss copy illegible.]

Lieut. Fulfonl and Sub- Lieut. Conybeare, with 18 men and two ice-boats, arrived here at 2 a.m. of the
12th May, 1876, having left H. M. S. Disawery at 8 \^. ni. of the 7th inst. Captain Stephenson, Mr. Hart
(naturalist), Henry Hetty, and Hans Christian, Ksquimaux, with dog-sledge, arriveil at 2 a. m. of the 12th of
May, having left Disanrry at 8 p. ni. of the loth inst.

Dr. Coppinger, with Goo. Kmmerson and 8 men, in two sledges, arrived here from Refu^e Harbor
at 7.30 p. m. of the ijth of May, 1876. Dr. Coppinger parted company with Lieuts. Ikaumont and Rawson
on the 5 May at Cape Stanton, their |)arty being all well. Geo. W. Emmerson left H. M. S. Adt^t at l-'loe-
berg Ik'.ich on the 2nd inst., in lat. 80"' 27' N., long. 61° 22' \V.

Captain Stephenson, Sub- Lieut. Conybeare, Mr. Hart, and party of 27 men left this harbor at 8. 10 a. m.
of the 17 th May, 1876, for H. M. S. Disanu-ry, Discovery Bay. All well.

Lieut. Fulford, accompanied by Dr. Coppinger, 2 men, and dog-sledge, leave at 10 a. m. this day, the
17th May, for Newman Bay, with depot for Lieut. Beaumont.

R. B. Fui,K)Ri», Lieut,, R, N.

Polaris Bay, May 17, 1876.

yune yi. — Lieut. Rawson arrived, with party of 4 men, having left Lieut. Beaumont about forty miles
along the coast, NE. from Repulse Harbor. Lieut. Rawson was sent back from the advance party with
J. J. Hand, A. B., sufTering from scurvy, who died the night of his arrival here.

"yune 7, '76, Lieut. Fulford, Dr. Coppinger, and party returned from I'eterman Fiord ; they advanced
to a distance of 30 miles, but were' eventually stopped by glacial ice.

yune 22. — Lieut. Rawson and Dr. Coppinger, with dog-sledge, proceeded in scirch of Lieut. Beau-
mont and party (due at Hall's Rest, Polaris Bay, June isth). Lieut. Rawson met the party in Newman Bay
June 25th, the whole of them being sick with scurvy, 4 having to be carried on the sledge.

yune 29///. — Dr. Coppinger, with Wm. Jenkins, Car Ute, and Chas. W. Paul, A. B., on dog-sledj.' ■
arrived at Hall's Rest at 12.30 a. m. Charles W. Paul, A. B., died that afternoon at 6. 1 5 p. m.

yuly ist. — Lieuts. Beaumont and Rawson, with remainder of party (two carried), arrived safely at
Hall's Rest, Polaris Bay.

yuiy 12M. — Lieut. Fulford, with dog-sledge, proceeded to H. M. S. Discmrry, Discovery Bay (Bellot
Harbour).

yuly \^th. — Captain Stephenson, with party of 6, arrived from the ship.

yuly 29///. — Intend leaving with Lieut. Rawson and 7 men for Disiorcry to-day. All invalids doing
well. Lieut. Beaumont, with remainder of party, hope to follow in a week.

* H. F. Stephknshn.

ilrl;

^';i

Aug. 1th. — Start to-day for Discovery Bay, accompanied by Dr. Coppinger and remainder of party
(7); have waited since Friday (4th) on account of the ice and bad weather. Great quantity of ice has
gone down the strait during the last gale.

L. A. Beaumont, R, N., U.

March 28M, 1876. — [Letter-press copy illegible.]

H. F. SXEPHENSOf.

March 28t/i, 1876. — Received news of Alert on 2sth March, 1876. She wintered in the pack off west
coast of Robeson Channel, lat. 82° 27' N., long. 61 ^ 18' 15" W., close to the .shore. All well. Three sledges
will follow the north coast of Grant's Land, now trending to the NVV., and this party endeavours to proceed
to the northward over the ice. Parties from the Discovery will explore the north coast of Greenland and
Lady Franklin's Straits.

H. F. S.

' .

156 THK LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

* Appendix No. 41. — Dr. Pavy^ s orders to carry provisions to the Greenland coast.

Fort Concikr, (iKinnell Land, March 4, 1882.

Sir: Von will leave this station March 5, at 8 a. m., or as soon thereafter as the weather will permit, to
lay out a depot (K) on the Greenland coast.

Sergeant David Linn will accompany you, and you will use fur this purpose the dog-sledge ////<;, with
Eskimo Jens Edward for driver. The details for the trip will be arranged by you, but a list of all dead
weights must be furnished prior to your starting.

There will be taken, from this station, one case cranberry sauce, one case milk, two sacks hard bread
(126 pounds), one box containing butter, pepper, roast and corned beef, and, if your <leid weights allow,
a sack of pemmican. At depot U the sack of pemmican will be left and as much bread taken in its place
as you judge can be carried.

The depot will be established on the Greenland coast as far north towards Cape Sumner as can be
reached in one day's march from depot B. The <lepot will be left on land at such place as can be seen
readily by a party traveling along the coast, and a red Hag will be planted on a prominent point near it.

In returning, you will leave at depot E all dog-food and rations which shall not be indispensable to your
safe and comfortable return to depot )A.

The dogs may be fed, going and coming, from dejjot B. Hard bread, baked beans, and tea can be used
therefrom, but no other articles except in case of necessity.

I inclose a map. which will be returned, with your route from Cape Beechey and the locality noted
thereon.

The sledge journal, with a brief report covering rJl essential points, will be transmitted to me within
forty-eight hours after your return.
I am, sir, respectfully yours,

A. W. Greki.v,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Expedition.

Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Paw, U. S. A.

Appendix No. 42. — Dr. Pavy^s report on journey ordered in Appendix No. 41.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, March nth, 1882.

Sir : In accordance with your orders, the sth of March, at 7.45 a. m., I left Fort Conger. Sergt. D. Linn
and the Greenlander, Jens Edward, accompanied mc; the last named driving the dog-sledge Lilla.

At 1 1.45 a. m. we reached Cape Murchison. (Temperature at the time, —49.4° [—45.2° C], the mini-
mum marked, since the last setting, —52.2° [—46.8° C], and at 12.30 before leaving the Cape, —54'"

1-47.8° C.])

At 4.4s p. m. we were at the snow-house of Shift Rudder Bay. Temperature at 7.35 p. m., —35°
f— 37.2°C.]. Wind SSE. ; stormy, with snow.

The next day, the 6th of March, being stormy, I did not deem it prudent to travel, and, therefore, remained
in the house. During a part of the time, to save coal, I used my Eskimo lamps, and obtained a temperature
of -f 26° [—3.3° C], when the glass outside marked —34° [-36.7° C.]. At 3.20 p. m. my chronometer had
stopped. I then set it by the watch of Sergt. Linn.

Temperature of the 6th of March: Minimum during the night, —36° [—37.8° C.]. At 7 a. m., —28.6"*
[—33.7° C.]; wind NNE., blowing a gale. At 12 m., —34° [—36.7° C.]; wind NNE., blowing a gale. At 7
p.m., —36.3 [ — 37-9°C.]; wind NNE., blowing a gale.

The 7th of March I woke up at 4 a. m. At 7 a. m. we started, and at 10 a. m. we left the ice-foot oft
Cape Beechey. From the shore, to about J^ of a mile in the straits, the ice is of a very heavy kind, com-
posed of boulders, hummocks, or rubble debris superposed or raised on their edges. Since last fall the ice
of this locality has changed. At 10.35 '''■ "i- ^*'^ ^^ve clear of these difficulties, having reached an extensive
floe ot paleocrystic ice over which the travel was excellent. When about 2 miles from the shore left track
of the sledge Antoinette and took an easterly course towards Cape Sumner. At 12 m. (travelling still excel-
lent) we stopped for the purpose of melting ice, but. to my great annoyance, I discovered that the gallon tin

THE LADY FUANKLIX HAY KXPEIHTIOX.

157

can containing alrohf)! had leaked, and that the reserved oni. nad slipped from between the lashings of the
sled at some point of the journey, that we were in the impossibility to prec isi.-. Jens walked ba( k for about a
mile, but was unsuccessful in finding the lost s|iirit of wine.

Shortly after i |). m. we resumed our march, travelling over small palcocrystii floes and hummo< ky ice
of this year's formation. Until 3 p. m, the travelling may be said to have been fair. After 3 p. m., when
about 6 miles from the Greenland coast, the floes became smaller and the hummocks heavier; in a wonl.the
travelling more difficult. Two hours more of working and hard i)ushing behind the sleilge brought us to
about 2 miles from the coast, where we raised the tent ami camped at 5 p. m. 1 was then just in view of a
large gap in the cliffs at the point marke<l on my maji.

This locality will easily be found, being distinctly visible even from Cape Bee< hey. Durini; the day
at no time I could .see (on the (Irinnell Land coast) further north than halfway between Wrangcll Day and
Lincoln, and that at times only through a misty atmosphere. To the south we could see the coast as far as
Cape Lieber.

On the Greenland side the view could only embrace Polaris Promentory [su\, with Cape .S'ltnner to the
north.

Temperature of the day : Minimum during the night, —40.7 [ — 40.4° C.]. 7 a. m., —35.3 f— 37.4^ C.| ;
wind, NK. 12 m., —28.0° [—33.3' C.]; wind, NK. 5 p. m., —38.5 [—39.2" C.J; wind, NK. Wind blow-
ing a gale all day.

March ^tli. — In wakening up in the morning I found that my chronometer and the watch of Sergt. Linn
had stopped. The weather was thick, with a sharp breeze. Assuming the time to be si.x o'clock I c ooked
breakfast, and at 8 a, m., leaving the tent pitched, we started with a load of provisions to be deposited on
the Greenland shore.

At 9 a. m. the strength of the wind had increased to fifteen to twenty miles per hour [6.7 to 8.9'" per
second]. VVe were in a storm of drifting snow from the ENK.

At 12 m., after having travelled over very heavy ice, we reached the coast at the gap above mentioned,
deposited the provision, except the sack of ])cmmican (with the addition of 2 cans of beef, 2 cans of beans,
and 2 of milk from my own stores), behind a large eratic \sh\ block about midways between the sides of the
gap. This block, elevated about thirty or forty feet [9 or i2"'| above the ice foot, is of a bright yellow color,
forming a striking contra.st with the slaty, devonic limestone of the neighborhood.

Over the depot I planted the signal flag, and with the emjity sledge returned to the locality where the
tent had remained pitched.

The weather was so thick that when on the coast we could scarcely see further than about a (|uarter
of a mile.

The storm at 3 p. m. had abated some. We then packed our sledge, and, following th ■ u'c

the preceding day, we arrived at 7 p. m. at about three miles from Cape Heechey.

My intention was to reach the snow-house that evening, but Sergt. Linn being too tired t; proceed
further, i camped.

Temperature of the ilay : Minimum during the night, —42.0 [ — 41.1 ' C.J. 7 a. m., —33.4 [ — 3(>.3 C.j ;
wind NE. 2 p. m., —28.2 [— 33.4°C.]; wind NK. 7 p. m., —37.0 1—38.3" C.j; wind NK.

March c^th. — The grey dawn was just breaking, and I had slept very comfortably all night, when a
sensation of heat against my back woke me up. At first I thought that one of the dogs had crawled in the
tent; but I soon found out that the heat proceeded from the body of our driver Jens, who, by kindness,
thinking that Sergeant Linn was sick, had preferred to sleep out of the bag without any covering than to
discomfort him. The good man escaped with only one toe frost-bitten, and that bv a temperature —41.7
[-40.9° C.J.

Not being able to cook breakfast we started at 6 a. m., and at seven reacht' ' le ice-foot of Cape
Beechey. At 9 a. m. we entered the snow-house after feeding the dogs and cooking breakfast; at 12 m.
we resumed our homeward journey, reaching Fort Conger at 6.40 p. m.

Temperature : Minimum during the night, —41.7 [—40.9° C.J. At 1 2 m., —31.0 [—35.0° C.j. At Cape
Murchison the minimum had been —35.0 [— 37.2°C.j. At the time we passed, 3.30 p.m., —31.0 J— 35.o''C. |.
The assistance rendered by Sergt. Linn during this journey has been of great help to the a( complish-
ment of the undertaking. The services of Jens are invaluable.
I am, verv respectfully, your obt. .servant,

Octave Paw,
Act. Asst. Surgeon, U, S. A.

' I.!!!

• Ji:

'er

158

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

yournal of a s/eiige Jotirmy to carry prm'isions to the Gretnland coasi.

Reached Cape Murchison at 11.45 •"*• '"•> •■>"i' ''i*^ snow-house

When burning

Miinh t,tfi. — Left Ft. Conger 7.45 a.m.
at Shift Rudder Bay 4.45 p. ni,

Manh 6. — Wind blowing. Remain all day in the house. Chronometer stojiped.
Eskimo lam|)s temperature raised to +26° [—3.3° C.J; glass outsiile — 34" [—36.,'"' C.J.

March 7. — Woke uj) 4 a. m. Started at 7 a. m. At 10 a. m. left ice-foot off Cape Heechey. Ice
changed since the fall. At 10.35 clear of the difticulty and travelling on a good paleocrystic floe. At
12 in. stopped; found one can of alcohol leaking and the reserved one lost. At 3 p. m., at about 6
miles from tiie Greenland shore, floes bad. Raise the tent at 5 p. m., about two miles from the coa.st.
To-day wind blowing hard.

March 8. — Chronometer and watch stopi)ed. Weather thick ; wintl blowing. At 6 a. in. cooked
breakfast. At 8 a. m. left the tent pitched and started with provisions. Ice exceedingly rough ; very
heavy storm all day. After 9 a. ni. storm very heavy, 1 5 to 20 miles per hour [6.7 to 8.9'" per secondj, from
K. N. K. At 1 2 m. reached the coast and left depot ; returneil to the tent at 2.30 p. m. At 3 p. m. were
travelling homeward. At 7 p. m., about three miles from Cape Heechey, camped on the ice.

starch f)th. — Jens has slept out of the bag. At six a. m. we started without cooking breakfast. At
7 reached the ice-foot at Cape Heechey. At 9 arrived at snow-house, fed dogs, and cooked breakfast.
Started at 1 2 m. Arrived at Fort Conger at 6.40 p. m.

OtTAVK Taw,
Jet. Ass/. Surgeon, U. S. A.

Appkndix No. 43, — Sers^eatit BrainartVs orders to moir boat to Greenland coast.

Fort Conukr, Grinnki.i, Lank, March 13, 1882,

Sk.rc.kant: Weather permitting, you will leave this station at 7 a.m., March 14, to establish dejjot E
in Newman Hay. Sergeants Linn, Kalston, and Elison, Privates Hiederbick, Connell, Schneider, and
Whisler will form your party. The English eight-man sledge, with the boat Discovery and its contents, will
be hauled from its present location near Distant Cape, together with such stores for depot E from this station
as may be furnished you.

At depot B two sacks of pemmican will be left, and in its place will be taken the bag of sup|>lies cached
about three miles east of Cape Heechey. You will travel <lirectly east across Robeson Channel until ne.ir the
Greenland coast ; then, inclining to the northeast, you will deposit the boat in the " gap " where depot E is
now established. The su[iplies, forming old de|)ot E, will be taken, and will be deposited with all others in
hand at a place to be selected by you in Newman Bay. In case you enter Newman Hay near the center it
will be best to proceed to the land near Gap Valley.

At the point where the depot is established a snow house will be built or excavated from a snow-bank,
and a flag left flying over near the depot. Six days' rations will be taken on leaviiiL; depot H. Bread,
cotVee, butter, beans, and corned beef can be used from ilepot B.

Meteorological observations, as usual, will be made by Sergeant Ralston.

You are cautioned particularly against traveling in stormy or windy weather. You must frequently
(juestioii your party as to their condition, and avoid overwork. A four-man sleeping-bag will be taken from
here, one two-man bag from depot A, and also one from depot H; these bags must be returned to their
respective stations. A careful sledge journal will be kept, which, with a detailetl report, must be submitted to
me, in writing, two d.iys after your return. The time of all halls and starts will be noted as well iis the character
of the ice passed over in the interval. All watches will be compared daily, and the result noted. The men
will serve in turn as cooks, and but sixteen ounces (one pint) of alcohol will be allowed for each meal. AH
articles of food which you can spare on your return will be left at depot E, ami the wall-tent will be left
carefully cached at Cape Beechey. 1 trust your speedy and safe return may be soon noted. You must
bear in mind that you start in a temperature ol about —40" (—40° C.J, and at a;i almost unparalleled early

season of the year.

A. W. Gkkki.v,
Fiiif J.ieiif., I'iflh Cavalry, Acting Signal Officer and Assistant,
Sergeant I). L. Hrainard, Commanding Expedition,

U, S. Army.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

[.ist of sfoKS for lii-poi /.'.

159

6 cans extract of lieef (to lie obtained at depot II).

1 can of desiccatvil jxitatoes (to t>c obtained at de|)ol li).

5 |tain Iar|;e snow-shoes (three to lie obtained ut (K'|H>t II).

2 45-lb. cans lime-juice, jieniinican (one to be obtained at de|iot

H).

6 cans extract of mutton,
34 cons milk.

10 ,;-ll>. cans butter,
50 lbs, bacon.

1 Iki^ l.t. I.ockwood rations (to be obtained ,< miles vast of

fajie Ik'i'chey).
24 rranlieiry suiicc. )

4 '4-lxi\es lilack peiipcr.
12 liKiuiidcins corned licef.

2 lijiK" ''read (126 lbs).
4 2-|Miund cans ro:ist beef.
12 ,; pound cans oi Imtlor.
2 oars for boat (to be obtained at Ca|ic Becchey)

I'u be obtained at dv|>ot K, in gap
4 miles SW. of Cape .Sunmcr.

Appendix No. 44. — Sergeant Hrainard'' s report on trip ordered in Appendix No. yj.

Fort C()N(;kr, CiRinnki.i. Land, March 21, 1882.

Sir: I have llie honor to submit to you the following report of a sleilge journey, (lerforined under my
direction, for the purpose of placing the boat Discorcry, together with a few supplies, on the (ireenland coast
in the vicinity of Newman Bay.

In compliance with your instructions, dated March 13, 1882, 1 left the station at 6.25 a. in. the follow-
ing <l.iy, accompanied by Sergeants Linn, Ralston, and Klison, Privates IJiederbick, Connell, Schneider,
and Whisler.

We reacheil the large Knglish sledge containing the Dnawcry at Distant Cape, where it had previously
been |)laced, at 8,07 a. ni., and loading the supplies brought us by Sergeant Rice with the dog-team, were
again on our course at 8. 1 5 a. ni.

Although our load scarcely exceeded one hundred and twenty-live pounds to each man, yet so great
was the friction of the broad runners on the crisp snow, that it was advanced only with t!ie greatest ditlu ulty,
with freipient and repeated halts for rest. Our progress became so slow and unsatisfactory that I dc< ided
to cache the two sacks of jiemniican at a point on the coast about one-half mile north of Water-course Hay.
The sacks were carefully covered with snow and a small cairn left to indicate the spot. We reached depot
A at Cape Murchison at 1 1.15 a. m., and halted for a few moments to .secure the sleeping bag and to jiar-
take of a light lunch. Soon after crossing St. Patrick Hay some of the men began to show signs of the
excessive strain to which tncy were being subjected, and to which they were unaccustomed, but to stop was
impossible, as we had sleeping accommodations for only six men ; the other bag for the party being at Cape
Beechey.

The snow-house (depot B) was reached at 6.05 p. m. Tiie party was nearly exhausted front the
severe toil of the day, and all complained of lameness in their lower limbs. The snow was (juite deep and
just strong enough to break under our weight when we thought it was going to sustain us. On the whole,
however, I considered the traveling fair. Minimum temperature, —53.5 [ — 47.5" C.j.

The following morning (March 15) found us again in the traces by 7 o'clock. We continued up the
coast to Cape Beechey, where we entered on the floe at 1 2,30 p. m. In the belt of rubble-icc near the shore
we were detained for a few minutes in relashing our boat to the sledge from which it had bee ome
loosened.

The traveling was wretched, the cold intense, and our load dragged heavily. The men iiecanie so
tired that whenever a halt was called they would at once (|uit the drag-ropes and prostrate themselves on
the »now, notwithstanding the low temperature. Halted at 4. 1 5 p. m., and pitched our tent under the lee
of a large floe-berg, which extended i>roniises of protection from the wintls which were liable to spring up
during the night.

Schneider complainetl bitterly of soreness in his joints, together with rheumatic pains, which cau.sed me
no little anxiety iluring the night. Minimum temperature, —61.0 [ — 5i.7'C,J. The next morning (March 16)
his condition was greatly aggravated, lie could scarcely walk, and his gums were badly inflameil and
swollen. Fearing that these wee scorbutic symptoms, I directed Hiederbick to accomi)any him back to
the snow house at depot H, and to there await our return from tiie (Ireenland coast, meanwhile using such
stores as were, in his judgment, necessary to improve Schneider's condition.

)■:*■

K
IS

•5;

:. (11
1 ; (:■

160

THB-LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

As only six members remained to the party it was necessary to relieve ourselves of a portion of our
weight. So cacheing 90 pounds of pemmirpn, 48 pounds of milk, and 14 pounds of desiccated potatoes, we
were again on the road by 9 o'clock. The sufferings of the men from the effects of thirst became so great
th:it I oiJercd a halt at 12.30 p. ni., for the purpose of melting ice. This consumed forty minutes, but the
party felt so greatly refreshed, and worked so cheerfully and vigorously, that I believe the halt was economy
ratiier than waste of time. Snow began falling at 2.15 p. m., and the Greenland coast was obscured in con-
sequence. From this time we shaped our course by the compass attached to the small aneroid barometer.
The storm increasing in density and force I decided to camp at 3.40 p. m. We had traveled over new ice
the greater part of the day, but had also encountered a few i)aleocrystic floes. The latter were a great im-
provement over the former m jjoint of traveling. The snow at all times was deep and soft, and our utmost
strength was required to move the sledge forward. Frequently a tangle of rubble wjis met with, which
would be so rougli and uneven that a road or canal had to be cut before the sledge could pass. Minimum
temperature, —44^ [— 42.2°C.].

On the morning of the 17th March the snow had ceased falling and the abrupt cliffs of Polaris Prom-
ontory were again visible, and apparently not more than five miles away. 1 wat. in a dilemma. Your verbal
instructions, limiting my time on the floe to five days, were explicit and imperative. If I went to Newman
Hay, in accordance with your written instructions, I know, from former experiences in sledging, that four days
more at least would be recjuired to complete the journey. If I left my tent pitched where we were then in
camp and made the journey to the Gap, depositing the provisions and boat, and returning to the tent the
same night, 1 could probably reach depot B with my party within the time specified. After a careful con-
sideration, I decided to adopt the latter course, and adhere strictly to your instructions. Leaving the tent
standing, with all our baggage inside, we started at 7 a. m. The party, although lame and sore from the
eft'ects of their severe labors, were m excellent spirits. It being St. Patrick Day, the only Irishman in
CJrinnell Land (Connell), assisted by two or three others, warbled joyously the Irish melodies which are
popular and approjjriate on such occasions.

During the night some of the men thought an animal could be heartl walking stealthily about the tent
outside, and in the morning it was unanimously agreed upon that our only weapon, the revolver, then on
the sledge, should in the future be kept in the tent as a protection against wild bea;-, ,. A careful examina-
tion of this weapon, however, revealed the fact that it had not been loaded for weeks, and that the ammu-
nition intended for its use had been left snugly stowed away in the snow house at Cape Heechey.

We ploddeil slowly along through the deep snow, finally reaching the t>ap at 11.20 a. m., where the
supplies comprising depot K were readily found. We placed the boat above the ice-foot and piled boxes
about it in such a manner as to secure it from harm. On making an examination of the condition of the
boat before leaving, it was found that the strain to which she had been subjected had made several large
cracks along her keel. These are unimportant, however, and may be repaired easily.

We began an excavation in a snow-bank, but fearing that our tracks would be obliterated by the
northeast wind, which had risen suddenly, we immediately started back, reaching the tent at about 3 j). m.
Several received frost-bites about the face during the homeward march. In a short time the wind rose to
a velocity estimated at twenty-two miles per hour \g.8"' per second], and the air was so densely filled with
drifting snow that it was impossible to distinguish objects more than one hundred yards [91"'] distant. Mini-
mum temi)erature, —43° [ — 4i.7°C.].

March 18. — The men suffered greatly during the night from the intense cold. Sleep was out of the
cpiestion, and the cook was only too glad for an excuse to get up at 4 o'clock. The trials of this functionary
can only be appreciated by those who had performed the same duties under similar circumstances. Without
patience and fortitude none can hope to succeed in cooking a breakfast when the temperature is below
minus forty. We were ready to start at 6 o'clock, but were delayed by a brisk wind until nearly 8. No
event worthy of note occurred during the march. We camped at i p. m., four miles from Cape Beechey.

The bag of provisions which Lieutenant Lockwood and i)arty had left near this place, was hauled to
the tent, which I decided to leave standing, rather than cache at Cape Beechey. The stores which we had
abandoned on our outward tri[) were also hauleil and deposited there. Towards evening the wind died
away and the sun siione brightly. Minimum temperature, —43.2' [— 4i.8''C.].

The next morning (March 19) the cook got up soon after i o'clock, to avoid the tortures which our
wretched sleeping-bags inflicted. The large buffalo bag was frozen so hard that it resembled sheet-iron in
point of pliability. Not a man of the four who occupied it slept for a moment during the long dreary night.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

161

They were not able to get into it at once, but were, from necessity, compelled to thaw their way in gradually
by first inserting their feet. A northeast wind, which had prevailed during the night, delayed our start until
5 a. m. We left the tent pitched in the shelter of a large floe-berg and placed the provisions inside. It
was then carefully closed, and a small, red flag planted on the summit of a floe-berg, about 1 5 feet [4.5"'] above
the main floe, which serves well to mark the spot. It is due east from Cape Beechey, and distant about four
miles. Cape Beechey was reached at 7 o'clock and the snow house at i o a. m. We were greatly rejoiced
to find that Schneider had greatly improved in health under the skillful treatment of Biederbick. The latter
informed me that he had experienced considerable difficulty in getting him to the shelter of the hut, and
that his care of the sick man until our arrival had been unremitting.

The remainder of the day was spent in clearing away the snow which had formed in great drifts about
the hut, and under which lay many of the tools left here last autumn. All the instruments thus covered,
with the exception of one shovel, were found. The Hudson Bay sledge, which we left here last autunm, could
not be found.

Dr. Pavy, Sergeants Rice and Jewell, and the two Eskimo drivers arrived from Fort Conger at 3.30
p. m., en route to Cape Joseph Henry.

We left depot B at 3.45 a. m., March 28, and reached depot A at 9 o'clock, where we halted for a
short time for lunch. Schneider had walked along ahead of the sledge during the morning, but at his
earnest appeal I allowed him to take his place in the drag-ropes, with the understanding that I was to be
informed if the old symptoms returned.

Arrived at Fort Conger at 3.30 p. m. The party, as might be expected, were very tired, but all returned
in good health. A few superficial frost-bites of the fingers and about the face are the only accidents which
I can record. Considering the unprecedented low temperatures in which we traveled, from the first to the
last day, it is certainly marvelous that more serious cases of freezing did not occur.

Sergeant D. C. Ralston was indefatigable in his efforts to secure meteorological data. His report of
the same will be found appended.

One of our two watches stopped some time during the first night, and, in consequence, no comparisons
were made. I found the allowance of four ounces of alcohol to each man per day, for cooking purposes,
to be insufficient during extremely cold weather. At all times one-third more was required ; once double
the allowance was used.

I cannot speak too highly of the admirable behavior of the party under my charge during our absence
from Fort Conger. The courage, zeal, and fidelity which they displayed in the performance of their duties
is highly commendable.

Trusting that the course which I adopted — . .nough not in strict accord with your instructions — will
meet with your full approval, .

I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

• D. L. Brainard,

Sergeant, Gctieral Service, U. S. A,

Lieut. A. W. Greely,

Fifth Cavalry^ U. S. A., Acting Signal Officer and Assistant,

Commanding Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.

H. Mis. 393 11

■ liiw'

•Ill

! i

162

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Report of obserrations nuule on sledf^e journey to the Greenland coast under char^^e of Strgeant D. L. Brainard,
leaving this station March 14, 1882, and returning A/arch 20, 1882.

t i!

Date.

Mar. 14

Mar. 15

Mar. 16

Mar. 17

Mar. 18

Mar. 19

Mar. 20
Mar. 20

Time.

II. 15 a. m.

00 p.m.
00 p. m.
00 p. m.
00 a. m.

00 a.m.
00 a. m.
00 p. m.
00 p. m.
00 a. m.
00 a. m.
00 p. m.
00 p.m.

4. 00 p. m.

00 a. m.
00 a. m.

00 p. m.
00 p. m.

Barometer.

Inches.

29.62
29. 6'3
29.63
29.95

29.72
29. 69
29.72
29.70
30.02
29.95
29.96
29.98

752- 33
752-59
752- 59
760.72

754- 87
754- « I
754- 87
754- 37
762. 49
760. 72

71 ""'■97
761.48

30. 02 I 762. 49

30.31 I 769.86

30.27 768.84

30- 27
30.38

768.84
771.64

Observed tem-
perature.

Fahr.
_44.o»

.44.0
-46.0

-53-5
-50.0

— 390

— 40.5

— 41.0

— 43-5

— 39 o

— 35°
-35- 5

— 33- 5

— 330

— 350

— ■il<^

— 35-5

C.
— 42. 2*

— 42. 2

— 43-3

— 47-5

— 45.6

— 39-

— 40.

— 41.

— 39-

— 37-

— 37-
-36-

-36.1

— 37-2
-36.1

-37-5

Minimum tem-
])erature.

Fahr,
-49-8»

— 6i.o'

44.0

43- o

C.
•45-4

.51.1'

— 42. 2

— 41.7

Weather, direction
of wind, &c.

Calm and clear . .

Calm and fair

Calm and fair . . .

Calm and fair

NE., light, clear..

NE., brisk, cloudy
NE., brisk, cloudy.
NE., light and fair.
SE., light snow..

Calm, light snow .

Calm and fair

NE., fresh and

cloudy.
NE., brisk, cloudy.
N E. , brisk ,* cloudy

Air filled with drifting snow, and im|K)ssible to distinguish objects

■41.8

00 a.m. ] 30.35

00 noon
00 p.m.

5.00 a. m.

00 a. m.
00 a.m.

00 a. m.
38 a.m.

i.oo p. m.

00 p. m.
00 a. m.
05 a. m.

30.23
30.22

30.25

30. 22
30. 23

30.23

30. 45'

30' 43
30.38

770. 88
767.83
767. 57

768.34

767. 57
767- 83

767. 83

773- 42*

772.91
771.64

— 41. o

-34-5
-3«-2

-28.5

— 40. 6
36- 9
•35- «

43. 2

— 28.0 —33.3

— 27.0 —32.8

• 26. 8 — 3?. 7
37. 5* -38.6*

33- o

37- o
-370
-28.0

-36.1

-38.3
-38.3
-HI

36.0

- 57- o*

38.8
■43-8

-37-8

- 49- 4'

-393
42.1

100 yards [9
NE., fresh..
NE., fresh..
NE., light and fair.

SE., light and

cloudy.
SE., light, cloudy.
SE., fresh, light

snow.

Calm and fair

Remarks.

•Min. ther. No. 560
exposed at Cape
Murchison, P a r -
tially exposed to sun.

Min. ther. set at 7 p. m.

•Index point in bulb
and below scale
reading, viz, — 60
[— 5l.l''C.]. Esti-
mated one degree
below[— 5i.7°C.].

Min. ther. set 4.45 p.m.

began 2.15

Lt. snow

p. ni.
I.t. snow ended 4.30

p. ni.

Min. ther. set 3 p. m.
* Estimated 22 miles
per hour [9.8'" per
second.]
] distant.

N., fresh and fair.

N., light and fair..

Min. ther. set at
p. m.

2.30

Lt. snow began 6.30 a.
m.; snow ended 9.20
a. m., wind subsiding
same time.

* Min. ther. No. 560 at
Cape Murchison, as
read by Sergeant
Jewell.

♦Inside ice-house.
Outside of ice-house,
after 5 mins. ex|X)s-
ure to open air,

30.33 [770.37"""]-
At I p. m. temp, of
ice-house, farther
side from stove,
party of 8 men in-
side and coal lire
burning, -f- 39.3
[+4.i''C.].
Min. ther. set 7 p. m.

Min. ther. No. 560 at
Cape Murchison.

Instruments used during trip: Aneroid barometer No. 6, minimum thermometer No. i.

D. C. Ralston,
Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, March 21, 1882. Sgt., Signal Corps, U. S. A,

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

163

Appendix No. 45. — Sergeant JeweW s report on trip to Lincoln Bay, while supporting Dr.

Pavy.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, March 30, 1882.

Sir : I have the honor to make the following report of my sledge journey to Lincoln Bay, made in
compliance with your orders of March 15, to support Dr. Pavy and party on their expedition of discovery,
to the north of Cape Joseph Henry.

The party, consisting of Dr. Octave Pavy, Sergeant George VV. Rice, Signal Corps, U. S. A., Jens
Edwaid, driver of dog-sledge Lilla, and Sergeant VV. S. Jewell, Signal Corps, U. S. A., with Frederick Chris'
tiansen, driver of dog-sledge Antoinette, left Fort Conger, March 19, at 9.40 a. m., arriving at Cape Murchison
at 12.38 p. m. Upon our arrival in the straits the wind increased to a fresh breeze from the NE.

The temperature at depot A was — 30.5 [—34.7° C], which made the traveling particularly disagree-
able, although the fog, which had all the morning been hanging over the channel, began to clear away, and
when we reached depot B the Greenland coast was plainly visible. We here found the party under Sergeant
Brainard, who had been sent across the strait on the 14th instant with a boat and supplies to be used in con-
nection with the Greenland exploring party under Lieutenant Lockwood. The accommodations at this
place being too limited for so large a party. Sergeant Rice and myself built a snow house of sufficient size to
accommodate our whole party, in which we spent a very comfortable night. I awoke at i a. m. and found
the temperature to be one degree below zero [—18.3° C.]. The minimum temperature for the night (open-
air exposure) being —41° [—40.6° C.].

After completing our loads from the supplies at this depot we started at 10 a. m. (20th), finding the
traveling good until we reached Cape Beechey at 11.45 *• ™"' where huge masses of ice had been thrown
across the ice-foot, completely blocking our passage. Here our trouble began, for, owing to the unusually
high tides prevailing, it was with considerable .trouble that we succeeded in getting on the firm ice. This
was of that character known as " rubble-ice,' with an intermixture of floe-bergs, and so rough that an ax had
to be in constant use making roads, in order to make any progress at all, and even then requiring the united
strength of the whole party to get the heavily loaded sledges over some of the rough places.

This tiresome monotony was only relieved once, when, about three miles from Cape Beechey, we found
an ice-foot which we were able to use for about a mile, after which we were again obliged to take to the
ice. When first crossing the ice-foot the exclamation of " Nanook," from Jens, the Eskimo, drew our
attention to the tracks of a polar bear. They were very plain, and showed him traveling to the south. At
7 p. m. we crossed to the ice-foot, found a snow-bank, made a dug-out, and retired for the night. Distance
made good during day, 10 miles. Minimum temperature, from 7 p. m. (20th) to 9 a. m. (21st), was —22°
[-30.0" C.].

We started from the snow house at 11. 15 a. m., and found no improvement in the traveling, being a
continual fight with the ice until we reached Wrangel Bay, at 5 p. m., where we were obHged to halt for the
purpose of relashing the sledge Lilla, which had become weakened by the rough ice. At 5.30 p. m. we
began crossing the bay, getting about half-way, where we camped at 7 p. m. The tent being too small to
accommodate the whole party, I found a snow-bank in which I made a dug-out just large enough lor Rice
and myself to crawl into.

During the day I observed several fine specimens of paleocrystic floe-bergs ; on some of them the strata
were very plain and well defined, apparently from eighteen to twenty-four inches [457 to 610"""] in thickness,
and in numbers varying from five to twelve, accordmg to the size of the berg. The difference in the forma-
tion of the strata was well marked, some being purely crystal, and others of a whitish or milk color, indicating
the presence of snow in its construction. Distance made good, six miles. Minimum thermometer, from
7.30 p.m. (21st) to 7 a. m. (22d),--24'' [—31.1" C.J.

At 9.30 a. m. we began the day's march, and found a great improvement in the ice ; for as soon as we
got clear of Wrangel Bay we reached a floe of new ice which extended above Mount Parry. At this point a
cache was made last year by Dr. Pavy, consisting of hard bread and pemmican. As we crossed the ice-
foot we again discovered the tracks of a bear, the farthest north that evidences of a living one have ever
been seen. Upon investigating the cache we found that he also had discovered it as there was but a small
amount of the pemmican left, while the bread bags were torn in shreds. But we were able to save most of
the bread as he did not appear to relish this article as a diet As the snow then covering the cache was

I
? A

164

TUB LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

undisturbed, it appears that the visit must have been made some time ago. After leaving the new ice we
found some large floes ou which the traveling was good. These extended to Lincoln Bay, and good time
was made until within about two miles of our destination where some rubble-ice was encountered, which,
however, caused but little delay. We reached the end of our journey at 5.20 p. m., and selecting a suitable
bank built a snow house. Number of miles traveled, 12. Minimum temperature from 5.20 p. m. (22d) to
8 a. m, (23d), —40 [—40.0° C.].

After visiting the English depot at this place and receiving from Dr. Pavy 164 pounds of canned beet
4 pounds tobacco, 5 bottles onion powder, and i can curry paste, I left the party at 12.30 p. m., accom-
panied only by Christiansen with the sledge Antoinette. We made good progress, arriving at Wrangel Bay
at 4.30 p. m., and at the same house occupied by us on the night of the 20th, at 8.30 p. m. Distance trav-
eled, 18 miles. Minimum thermometer from 8.30 p. in. (23d) to 7 a. m. (24th)— 53° [— 47.2°C.].

Started at 7.30 a. m. for depot B. We left the ice at 1 1 a. m. about one mile north of Cape Beechey
and reached our destination [depot B] at 1 p. m., where your order of March 2 1 , assigning me to duty under
Lieutenant Lockwood, was received from Corporal SaloV. Meteorological observations were taken and re-
corded, the report of which you will find on accompanying form.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant.,

W. S. Jewell,
Sergeant, Signal Corps, U. S. A.
Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Expedition.

Meteorological report of sledge trip, from March 19 to March 30, 1882.

Date,
1882.

Time.

Barometer,
aneroid,No. 10.

Thermometer
No. 1.

Wlirfi

Minimum thermometer.

State
of weather.

Locality.

Direc-
tion.

Force.

Reading.

Time.

Mar. 20

22
23
24

25
26

7 a. m.

10 a. m.
Sp-m.

9 a.m.

11 a.m.
7 p.m.
7 a.m.

I p.m.

7 p.m.

8 a.m.

8 p.m.

7 a. m.

7 p.m.
5 a. m.

7 a.m.

tl a. m.
11 a. m.

1 1 p. m .

Inches.
30.20

30.04
29.87

29.71

29-67
29-Si
29-33

29.22

29.15
29.21

29.32

29-43

29.58
29-65

29.61

29.56
29.60

29.61

mm.
767.07

763-00
758.68

754- 62

753-60
749- 54
744-97

742. 17

740. 40
741-92

744-71

747-5"

75'- 32
753- «o

752.08

750. 81
751-83

752. 08

Fahr.
-3»

-27
—20

—10

— 10
—20
—20

-36

-35
—23

-37

-45

-49
-48

-46

—40
-36

-32

C.
-35-

-32.8
—.28.9

-23- 3

-23-3
—28.9
—28.9

-37-8

-37-2
—30.6

-38.3

—42. 8

-45-0
-44-4

-43-3

—40.0
-37-8

-35-6

E.
SE.

SE.

SE.
SE.
E.

Calm.

E.
E.

Calm.

SE.
Calm.

Calm.

S.
Calm.

SW.

Light.

Light.
Brisk.

Light.

Fresh.
Light.
Light.

Fahr.
—41

C.
—40.6

7 p. m. to
7a.m.

Lt. snow.

Lt. snow.
Cloudy.

Cloudy.

Fair.

Fair.
Fair.

Cloudy.

Clear.

Clear.
Fair.

Foggy on
straits.
Clear.
Clear.

Cloudy.

Depot B.

Do.
Between Cape
Beechey and
Wrangel Bay.
Do.

Do.
Wrangel Bay.
Do.

3 miles south of
Cape Frederick.
Lincoln Bav.
Do.

Between Cape
Reechey and
Wrangel Bay.
Do.

Depot B.
Do.

Do.

Cape Beechey.
Depot E.

Depot B.

— 22

—30.0

7 p.m. to
9 a.m.

-24

-3<-''

7 p.m. to
7 a. m.

Gentle.
Light.

—40

—40.0

7 p.m. to
8 a. m.

Fresh.

-53

-47.2
—46. 1

8 p.m. to
7 a. m.

7 p. m. to
5 a. m.

Light.
Light.

-5«

■-46.V

II p.m. to
■ I a. m.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION. 165

Mfteorological report of iledge ttip, from March \f) to March yi, xi&z — Continued.

Dale,
1882.

Time.

Barometer,
aneroid.No. lo.

•

Thermometer
No. I.

Wind.

Minimum thermometer.

State
of weather.

Locality.

Direc-
tion.

F'orce.

Reading.

Time.

Mar. 27
28

29
30

II a.m.

3P«n.
7p.m.
5 a.m.

II a.m.
7p.m.

7 a.m.

3pn>-
7p.m.

ip.m.

Inches.
29- 57

29.56

29 57
29.56

29 -47
29.44

29.21

29.01
28.91

29.38

mm. \Fahr.
751.06 -29

750.81 —27
751.06-31
750.81 -43

748. 52 — 12

-33- 9

-32.8

-35-
-41.7

-35- 6
-43-3

-33-3

-36.1
-45.6

-29.4

SW.

SW.
SW.
Calm.

S.
SW.

NE.

NE.
SE.

SW.

Fresh.

Fresh.
Fresh.

Fresh.
Gentle.

Fresh.

Fresh.
Fresh.

Fresh .

Fahr.
-40

C.
— 40.0

1 1 p. m. to
II a. m.

Fair.

Fair.
Fair.
Clear.

Clear.
Clear.

Cloudy.

Fair .
Fair.

Cloudy.

Depot B.

Do.
Do.
Do.

Cape Beechey.

Floe five miles
from Cape
Beechey .
Do.

Depot E.

Floe five miles
from Cape
Beechey.

Depot B.

-45

-42.8

7 p.m. to
5 a. m.

747- 76

741.92

73^-84
734- 30

746. 24

-46

-28

-33
-50

—2!

-SO

-45.6

6 p.m. to
7 a. m.

-50

-45-6

1 a.m. to
I p. m.

W. S. Jewell,
Sergeant, S. C, U. S. A.

Appendix No. 46. — Dr. Pavy's orders for journey northward over Polar Ocean.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, March 14, 1882.

Sir : Having tendered your services in the field to command a party for the purpose of discovering
whether land exists to the northward of Cape Joseph Henry, I have the honor to advise you that you are
assigned to that duty, provided that the prospective health of the command will, in your opinion, permit of
such absence, and to direct that you leave this station for your trip (weather permitting) on March 18, 1882.

Sergeant George W. Rice, Signal Service, and Jens Edward are assigned to duty with you, and the dog-
sledge Lilla, with team of nine Eskimo dogs, will be taken.

Sergeant W. S. Jewell, Signal Service, and Frederik T. Christiansen, with the sledge Antoinette and
its team of seven dogs, will be at your disposal from this point to the English depot at Lincoln Bay, beyond
which point they must not be allowed to proceed.

On reaching that place. Sergeant Jewell will be furnished with 200 pounds preserved meat, six cans
onion powder, a few pounds of tobacco, and will be directed to return with dog-sledge Antoinette to depot B.

The details of your journey, and the route to be followed northward from Lincoln Bay, are left to your
own judgment and management. I deem it, however, important to invite your special attention to the route
over Fielden Peninsula and across James Ross Bay to Cape Hecla.

While travel overland is usually objectionable, the experience of the English expedition of i87s-'76, as
well as that of our own, indicates that traveling is thus facilitated when the party can avoid any consider-
able distance of the polar pack. 9uch route would probably give you the not inconsiderable advantage of
leaving the coast at Hecla in less time than Cape Joseph Henry could be reached through the rough ice-
pack on its eastward side.

Should you follow tjiis route the cairn on Crozier Island will be visited, the record there found taken
by you, and copy thereof be left, together with one of the record blanks furnished you. Similar action will
be taken regarding the records in cairn at the Alert^s winter-quarters.

You are to bear in mind that in no instance must your party be separated, that the exact .location of
depots must be made known to each member of the party, that no advance must be made beyond such
time as on full allowance one-half of your provisions have been consumed, and that in case of any consider-

■II ■

166

tllE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Mi!

Ill

ll!

! I

1 ;

able movement of the ice, or on the appearance of any lanes of open water, you must at once seek the
mainland. You are quite as well aware as myself of the hazardous nature of a journey without boats into
the central expanse of a frozen ocean.

In case land is seen to the northward your efforts will be devoted to reaching its shores, and in follow-
ing that coast which trends most to the northward. In case no land is reached, one day must be devoted
at your most northerly i)oint to determining, with the greatest care, your position, and in obtaining detailed
information as to the depth of the sea, the temperature of the water, the tidal currents, the thickness of the
new ice, and any other available data.

Whenever you are obliged to rest your team a day, similar observations should be made. In c.ise new
land is re.iched you will erect a cairn at a prominent place .ir.u deposit therein the exjjeditionary record
furnished you, with such additions briefly detailing your discoveries.

A cojjy of your sledge journal, which must be as full as possible, will be submitted within /loo 7iwAf
after your return and a full report within one month.

Data regarding the depot at View Point, and the sketch of the coast to Cape Joseph Henry, are already
in your possession.

A careful lookout will be kept for drift-wood, and if any fragment that could possibly have belonged to
a ship be noted, it must be brought to the station unless of great size, when the piece best calculated for
identification will be secured. It is possible that thus some tidings of the jfeantietU- may be obtained.

In accordance with your wishes no sjjecial anxiety will be felt for I lie safety of your party until June i.

Trusting that your earnest enthusiasm for polar exploration, united to your practical experience, cover-
ing two winters of dog-sledging, will insure your party all possible success, and wishing, beyond all, your
safe return —

I am, respectfully yours,

A. W. Greelv,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. am/ Assistant,

Commamiiii}; Expedition,

Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Paw, U. S. Army.

Appendix No. 47. — Dr. Pavfs report on journey ordered in Appendix No. 46.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, ,•

1882.

To the Commanding Officer, L. F. B. Expedition :

Sir : In compliance with your orders, I have the honor to submit to you the report of my sledge journey,
from the 19th of March to the 2d of May.

The 19th of March, accompanied by G. W. Rice and the Eskimo, Jens Edwards, I left Fort Conger.
My team consisted of nine excellent dogs, and the constant weight on the sledge amounted to f lbs.
To the provisions that I carried were to be added the rations cached last fall at Wrangel Bay, and part of the
depot left by Capt. Nares at Lincoln Bay. Moreover, you had, as an auxilliary [sie] sledge, put at my disposal
the Antoinette to support me as far as Lincoln Bay. This was accompanied by Sergt. Jewell (the Eskimo
Frederick Christiansen acting as dog driver), and pulled by eight dogs.

At 3.40 p. m. we entered the snowhouse in Shift Rudder Bay, temp. —34° [—36.7° C.J, where was
assembled the party under command of Sergt. Brainard. The very temperature to which the men had been
exposed in the straits had somewhat chilled their enthusiasm and slightly frost- bitten fingers and noses.

The house being already crowded, a deep hole, large enough for our party, was soon dug in a snow-
bank; the bags were spread out, and at 10 p. m. all of us had turned in. During the night the thermometer
inside registered -1° [—18.0° C], while outside the alcohol was falling to —39.0 [—39.4° C]. Distance
travelled in the day in straight line, 16 miles. Hours travelled, from 9.40 a. m. to 3.40 p. m.

March 20. — Temp, min.— 39.° [ — 39.4° C.j; obs. t.

We started at 10 a.m., the weather not being very cold, but rather gloomy and disagreeable. At 12 m.
we passed Cape Beechey, and followed the" coast for about two or three miles ; but the icefoot becoming

♦Original undated. Received July 23, 1882.— A. W. G., Lt'eut.
f Omission in original. — A. W. ().

) '

THK LADY FRANKLIN BAY HXPEDITION.

167

much encumbered with large paleocrystic bergs, we were compelled to take to the ice, notwithstanding its
bad and hummocky character. At the place where we had left the shore, we had found cncrusti.'<l in the
snow the footprints of a fully grown bear, evidently on his perigrination towards the south. These tracks
were not of very recent origin.

The travellmg was exceedingly tiresome and the headway made very small. At no time could we find
a quarter of a mile of good ice. It consisted of an aglommcration [sic\ of small hummocks, amalgamated
with rubble ice, and separated by holes, covered in many places with soft snow.

Despairing of making Wrangel Bay that night (being half-way between Cape Bcechey and the bay),
at 6.30 p. ra. we stopped, and again Rice and Jewell dug a house in a snowdrift of the icefoot. With Jens
and Frederick [Christiansen] I fed the dogs and afterwards cooked supper.

Distance travelled, 9^ miles.

Hours travelled, from 10 a. m. to 6 p. m.

T7ie 2\it of March. — The weather was comparatively mild and the travelling, although bad, was, never-
theless, better. For several hours we toiled over large floes and less rubble and hummocky ice, and at
7.30 p. m. went into camp on the ice, at the entrance to Wrangel Hay, having marched since 1 2 m. With
Jens and Frederick [Christiansen] I slept in the tent. Rice and Jewell burrowed a hole in a snowdrift, under
the lee of a berg, where I am satisfied they passed a wretched night, half exposed to the cold wind and
without a door to their igloo.

Distance travelled, 5 )^ miles. ?

Hours travelled, from 12 m. to 7.30 p. m.

March 22nd. Temp., min., — 24.0 [— 31.1" C] ; obs., 9.30 a. m., — 20.0 (— 28.9° C.J ; obs., i p. m.
- 36-0 I- 37-8° C.]; obs., 5 p. m., - 30.0 [- 34.4'' C.J.

We started at 9.30 a. m., procee<ling towards the small depot at the foot of Mount Parry, and without
disturbing the cache made in the fall at Wrangel Bay. With the loads already on the sledges it was
not possible to carry at once the provisions of both caches. After an hour's march, when out of the bay,
we travelled over excellent level ice. It consisted of a band extending fi-om the shore to two miles out
in the strait, and to the north about four or five miles. On the coast the foot was the same as I had
found it in the fall. More to the east the straits were hummocky ; this band of young ice proved,
evidently, that the floes must have been in motion until late in the season, cementing togetKer by calm
weather.

At the foot of Mt. Parry, when crossing from the ice to take up the depot, to my astonishment we
again found the tracks of our bear. The cache had been plundered, a sack of bread torn open and
untouched, but the pemmican two-thiius eaten up. The snowy bruin had made a lunch of 70 lbs!

We '" '^d on the Antoinetle the bread, and about 30 lbs. of pemmican left, and resumed our course.
The abse if icefoot north of the point where I had been stopped during the fall, and the accumu-
lation of gigantic floebergs in other places, satisfy my mind, that this coast could not have been travelled
at all. I am rather inclined to think with Capt. Nares, that, unless an internal road exists between Wrangel
and Lincoln Bay, no autumnal travelling in this neighborhood can generally be successfully undertaken by
sledges.

In the uncertainty in which I now stood about the state of our cache at Wrangell Bay, and unwilling
to detain Jewell longer than we had expected, I decided for the present not to return to the bay, but to
proceed north.

At one p.m., for the first time, we drove over paleocrystic floes; these afforded good travelling and were
identically of the same nature as those over which I had passed early in the spring. Undulating surfaces
that can be compared to rolling prairies, they are if at all large and not fortified at their edges by walls of
rubble and bastions of bergs incomparably superior for sledging to the ordinarily hummocky ice formed by
the disintegration of the pack in the conflict of autumnal storms. At 3 p. m. we were again stumbling over
the worst kind of hummocks, and had to wind our way towards the north shore of Lincoln Bay, where we
landed about a mile north of the British cache at 5 p. m. Again the tent was at once pitched; our builders.
Rice and Jewell, dug in a snowbank for a house; the Eskimos fed the dogs, and I prepared supper; after
which we all moved under our dome of snow. Distance made, 8^ miles.

Hours travelled, from 9.30 a. m. to 5 p. m.

March 2yd. — Temp., inin., during night, — 40.0 [—40.0° C.j. Obs., 12 m., — 23 [ — 3o.9°C.]; 7 p.m.,
-39'S[-39-7°C.].

1' ..

! ;«

sir- !

Ii '"^

168

TUB LADY FEANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

The 23rd, in the morning, we overhauled the prov isions of the English depot that we found to be in the
same state as we had left them last September. In the afternoon Jewell departed, carrying with him 150
(164, Jewell.] pounds of preserved meat. We passed tlie remainder of the day busily arranging our stores^
and making more comfortable the house that was to become our headquarters, until the last load could be
trai.jported around Black Cape.

March t^th. — Temp., min., during night, — 56.2 [ — 49.0° C.]; obs., 6 a. m., — 45.0 [ — 42.8° C.]; 8 a.m.,
-43.0 [-41.7° C.]; II a. m., -39-° [-39-4° <-'•]; 6 p.m., -36.5 [-38.1° C.].

On the 24th we advanced as far as Cape Union, where we were compelled to gp into camp by a south-
east breeze blowing since noon, but at the time (5 p. m.) increasing to a velocity of about 15 miles per hour
[about 7"' per second). The tent was pitched on the ice under the lee of a berg, and, about 100 yards [91'"]
from the foot, in this place, a perfect chaos of hummocks, bergs, and rubble. From Cape Union northward
the coast stretches for a long distance as a wall of high and black cliffii, inclining to the sea at a very sharp
angle, really in places too perpendicular for dogs to travel, and in others impassable for men sledges.

Here again I do not think the coast to be generally a practicable route for fall travelling. Three times
in the day we had to leave the foot; and once we were compelled to unhitch the dogs, and with main strength
to lower the sledge over a perpendicular wall of the foot.

Fortunately between these places the ice, when it could be travelled on at all, was level, but not abso-
lutely good, as the very thin crust of snow, mixed with hardened, salty effloresences, over which a fierce wind
must have raved in the early part of the winter, rendered the traction exceedingly laborious.

Between the northern end of Lincoln Bay and Cape Union, at the entrance of several deep ravines, can
be seen large circular and oblong hills formed by glacial drifts, that at a certain period of the earth's history
must have been the moraines of small glaciers.
Distance travelled, 1 1 miles.
Hours travelled, from 8 a. m to 5.30 p. m.

March 25th.— Temp., min., during night, —38.0 [—38.9° C.]. Observed, 3 p.m., — 27.0 (— 32.8°C.],
12 a. m., —38.0 [—35.6° C.J.

The storm has blown all night and was increasing so much at our usual starting hour that I delayed
our departure until 3 p. m. Now the band of young ice, free from hummocks, that had at times offered us
comparatively good travelling, and which did not extend in width more than a quarter or half a mile from
the coast, ended a couple of hundred yards above our camp. Then again a chaos of rubble and large hum-
mock hug the high and perpendicular wall of the foot (in places over 15 yards [about 14"']), burinating with
the tide its polished surface in thousand grooves, that under the rays of the sun glistened like engravings on
Persian shields.

The foot was of a terribly broken up and for a long distance double, as if last season, or for many sum-
mers, the oldest ice had not been disagregated. Over the slippery and uneven surface, about 100 yards
[9 1""] wide, we had to carry to the snow slope of the cliffe our load — article by article — dragging the heaviest
that could not be shouldered. The sledge and the dogs were taken across the last and separately.

Then for four hours came a difficult and tiresome walk. To the mind, I will say the most perplexing
and arduous struggle. Whoever, once, has cast his chances of success on the solidity of a thin plank, will
understand the anxiety of an Arctic traveller when the least false step or a too precipitous descent can, in an
instant, reduce his highest expectations to a most regretted failure. Happily our sledge upset but once.

It is useless to state that Rice, as he has always done, showed himself in every way the man for such
emergencies. As to Jens, his services cannot be too much praised.

I will further say that, to my belief, the Eskimos are indispensable for extended sledge journeys. Their
experience in managing dogs, and the apparent facility with which they can drive at once over difficulties
where the best of their inexperienced Caucasian pupils will fail, or labor for long hours, put the usefulness of
their services out of the question. Moreover, their endurance to cold will allow them to perform the many
duties of a driver with bare hands and in half of the time that it would freeze ours.

The history of the Arctic work, from Wrangel to this day, will bear witness to the fact that all dog sledging
expeditions that have used natives as drivers, or perhaps their best substitutes, (I mean men trained for years
to the work) have succeeded with comparative ease. I think that Sir George Nares, on his homeward bound
journey, must have reflected more fully on the usefulness of dogs and their drivers.

Three miles north of our camp the road became better, being still in places rough and dangerous. We
were at last, for the present, out of the labyrinth of bergs and hummocks. At 8.20 p. m. we reached Black

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

169

Cape, where, instead of building a snowhouse and proceeding a day or two forward, as it had been planned in
the morning, we made a cache and returned to our tent on the ice, where we arrived at 1 1.30 p. m. with a
gale blowing in our faces. Between Cape Union I'eak and Black Cape the coast, still falling at steep angle,
is formed of black slate and cut in many place by deep ravines, some of which must lead to interior valleys.

The ice, as far as the view could reach, presented the asjiect of a frozcn-up sea of hummocks, with very
few patches of young ice. To our astonishment, since we had turned Capo Union we coultl not detect in
Robeson Channel a paleocrystic floe of any considerable dimension.

From Black Cape, by a beautiful and cloudless evening, on an horizon tinted with the tender colors of
the soft, Arctic light, we saw, far in the north, what appeared to us as the faint but extensive outline of the
coast. Had we been, as the members of the " Polaris" expedition, the first to cast eyes over this apparition,
we would have certainly pronounced it land. The too beautiful illusion was but a bank of fog — one of
the thousand fancies and alluring deceits of mirage. Distance travelled, 8 miles. Hours travelled, from
3 p. m. to 11.30 p. m.

March 26///. — Min., during night, —37.5 [ — 38.6^ C.]. Observed, 10.30 a. m., —33.0 [ — 36.1" C] ; 5 p.

m-. -345 [-36-9" ^J-

The 26th of March, leaving again our tent pitched, we returned to Lincoln Bay and slept. The wind

on the 24th was blowing from the southeast, with but little intermission, temj). being as low as —39.0

(— 39.4°C.]. During the night of the 23rd to 24th, the thermometer had registered — 56.2 f— 49.0'' C]

Distance travelled, 11 miles. Hours travelled, from 10.30 a. m. to 4.30 p. m.

March 27M. — Temp., min., dur'g night, —44.0 [—42.2° C.]. Observed, 10 a. m., —23.0 [—30.6° C.];
3p. m., —20.0 [-28.9°C.]; 4 p.m., -21.5 [-29.7"C.J; 6 p.m., — ii.5[-24.2"C.J.

We started for the tent by fair and calm morning, the thermometer gradually rising, 10 a. m., —23°
[—30.6° C.]. The barometer showed an extraordinary fall.

The sledge being heavily loaded our progress was slow and tedious, without any more charms of
novelty. At noon a fresh breeze sprung from the northeast, and when we entered the tent its velocity
had reached about 30 miles per hour [about 13" per second].

Temp, at 6 p.m., —11.5 [ — 24.2°C]. Distance travelled, 11 miles. Hours travelled, from 10 a. m. to
3.30 p. m.

March zWi. — Temp., min., during night, —25.0 [ — 31.70 C.]. Observed, 6 a. m., — 15.0 [—26.1° C.];
7a.m., —20.0 [— 28.9°C.]; II a. m. in sun, —5.0 [ — 20.60 C.J; 11 a. m., in shade, —18.0 [—27.8° C.J; 8
p.m., —25.0 [-31.7° C.J.

During the night, the wind having abated in the morning of the 28th, we took a second load of pro-
visions to Black Cape and returned to the tent. Our mythical northern line had disappeared.

Distance travelled, 8 miles. Hours travelled, from 8.30 a. m. to 8 p. m.

March 29M — Temp., min., during night, —43.0 [—41.70 C.J. Observed, 10 a. m., —33.0 [ — 36.1 C.J;
3p.m., —29.0 [—33-9° C.J; 7 p.m., -36.5 [—38.10 C.J. ^

We proceeded again to Lincoln Bay, with empty sledge, and, in places, riding in turn. The wind had
ceased blowing and the atmosphere was remarkably clear. For the first time the influence of the sun upon
the snow, glazing its surface, while the temperature stood as low as —36.0 [—37.8'' C.J, was observed. When
on the march the weather seemed too warm to wear sealskin jumpers; we discarded them and travelled in
guernseys. From the foot of Cape Union I could, for the second and last time, see to the northeast the coast
of Cape Brittania [Britanniaj, Beaumont Island, and some of the adjoining land. To the south the faint
outline of Cape Constitution evoked reminences [reminiscenses] of "The good Christian knight, Elijah Kent
Kane," and set my mind pondering over the now old and nearly forgotten fable of an Open Polar Sea. I
was standing on the extreme point reached by the poetical vision of Hayes, at the threshold of a once great
mystery, that in younger days had so profoundly moved my imagination. Instead of a promised sea I could
view nothing but the stern and cold reality of a impenetrable ice pack.

Distance travelled, 1 1 miles. Hours travelled, from •

March jfith. — Temp., min., during night, —52.0 [—46.7" C.J. Observed, 12 m., — 15.0 [— 26.i"'C.];
3p. m., -8.s[-22.s''C.J; 7 p. m., -io.s[-23.6°C.].

I decided that the day would be one of rest for the dogs, with an extra allowance of food. Our decision
proved wise as the day turned out stormy. The snow drifted with such abundance in the vestibule of our
igloo that Jens and Rice were several times obliged to use the shovel. The double ration had been a God-

* Omission in original. A. W. G.

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TUK liADY FUANKLIN HAV KXl'EDITION.

send to uur poor animals, curled up and covered with snow. 1 would willingly add the word chilly, if after
our experience of last winter it was not still doubtful in my mind if an Kskimo dog really ever suHers of cold.

The temperature from —520 [—46.7° C.J during the night had raised to —8.5 [ — 22.5° C.J. We over-
haided our baggage, and Jens dried and mended our boots and gloves. At 6 p. m. the storm was still raging
with fury over our .snow-bank, where inside, cosily muffled up in my sleeping-bag at the light of an Kskimo
lamp, I wandered with an interesting traveller through the deserted halls of the ruined |)alaces of the once
imperial Delhi, under the warm and blessed sun of old India. Rice read, lying on the top of his bag, until
midnight. Jen.s, or the little man as he is generally designated with us, is perha|)s dreaming of a rich land
of seals and blubber.

March ^isf. — Temp., min., during night, —15.0 [ — 26.i°C.|. Observed, 6 a. m., —12.5 [ — 24.7° C.J;
8 a. m., —14.0 [ — 25.6° C.j; 1 p. m., —17.0 (—27.2° C.J ; 4 p. m., —27.0 [—32.8° C.|.

In the morning the Kskimo was obliged to ilig his way out of the house ; the weather was clear, the
atmosphere calm, .-ind the temperature mild. At 8.jo a. m. we started, reached tlie tent at .; p. m., and at
3.30 p. m. were back at Lincoln Bay.

Distance travelled, i2|^ miles. Hours travelled, from 5.30 p. m. [8.30 a. m.J to 12 a. m. [3.30 p. m.J.

////-/■/ ij/. — Temp., min., during night, —35 [— 37.2''C.|. Observed, 12 m., —30.0 [—34.4° C.J; 4 p.
m., -38.8 [-39.3° C.J.

I decided now to begin night travelling, on account of the snow being in places so .soft during the day
as to render the pulling of the sledge very laborious. The work had lately been so trying on the dogs, that
last night, notwithstantling another extra ration of food, some of our brutes had entirely devoured their
harness. Since this date the lashings of the sledge were at night carefully covered with snow, the traces
taken in the tent, and the dogs unharnessed so the noses of the worst delincjuents firmly secured with a thong
of sealskin. At 5.30 p. m., after a last visit to the Knglish cache, we started. 'I'he weather was calm, clear,
and cold —38.8 [—39. 3° C.J. The snow had hardened and, notwithstanding a very heavy load, our ilogs
were walking at a brisk pace.

Kverylhing seemeil to be complying with the best of our wishes, when at a (juarter of a mile south of
Cape Union, at a |)lace where to double the cape we had been obliged to leave the foot, and where we
])assed so many times without considering any extra care to be necessary, the right runner of the sledge
broke longitudinally through the line of holes bored for the lashings. I will certainly not try to describe
my feelings, but will briefly state that Rice on the spot offered gallantly to start for home after a new runner.
I at first objected, but it being impossible to mend the sledge we afterwards agreed that he would take Jens
and make his way to Ft. Conger the same night.

A/>ri/ 2tid. — Temp., min., dur. night, —56.0 [—48.9° C.J. Observed, i a. m., —42.0 [—41.10 C.J.

The sledge being lightened of nearly all the provisions, and the broken runner temporarily fastened
with a rope, we returned to the snow-house. At i p. m., after eating, but without taking any rests, my brave

traveller started. The thermometer registered • , and fell during the night to —56.0 [—48.9° C.J. They

were to be absent four or five days. Left alone and without a watch (my chronometer, affected by cold, had
stopped since the 21st of March), it needed the greatest vigilance on my part to keep record of time. In
the emergency the bold Cape of Frederick VII became a rough sort of sun-dial.

April yd. — I climbed the high hills and mountains that overlook the surrounding country and marched
for 20 hours. My object was to see if an inland route could not be found allowing a party to travel in the
fall from Wrangel Bay to the Alert winter quarters. At the highest point reached, that I estimate to be 2,000
feet [6io'"J, I had a magnificent view especially overland. From the end of Lincoln Bay several v.alleys could
be seen, which, succeeding to each other, appeared to lead towards Wrangel Bay. In another direction (NE.)
I could distincdy see a succession of sloping hills, cut with ravines and valleys, by which I think it is possible
to reach the coast at the entrance of some of the numerous openings near Floeberg Beach.

The weather was magnificent, and for the first time this year I could see the sun disappear but a moment
behind the long and snowclad line of the United States Range. Between these and a lower chain of hills,
closer to the coast, the distribution of light and shade showed plainly that a large and extensive valley must
exist, running from NE. to SW.

On my return clouds had gathered in the east and south, and masked to the view the Greenland coast.
I had foreseen the approach of the storm, and making haste I reached my burrow just as the snow was drifting
so thick as to hide any object 100 feet [3o'"J ahead.

*Umission in ori(,ii.al. A. W. G.

THK LADY FUANKLIX HAY KXPKDITION.

ifs

April Glh, — Tem|>fraturc ohservcil 9.30 p. m., —30.0* [— 34.4»C.l. In the morning of the <itli Jens and
Rice returned, carrying a new sledgc-runncr. They had a remarkable but tiresome march of •— — hours

going and of • hours returning, by a temperature of, at one time, —56.0 [— 48.9"!, making; at least •

geographical miles.

Among the thousand and one items of news brought from home was a letter, in which you instructed me
to look for a depot of 90 lbs. of pemmican left by t'ommander Markham near View Point, anil to siijjplymy
party with the amount that I would judge necessary.

Th!s unexpected help de< idcd me to leave behind the cache of Wrangel Hay that, on his return, Rice
had visited and found in good order. At 9 |i. m., my two travellers having rested all d."-, we left Lincoln Hay
•nnd made the tent at 4.30 a. m. Distance travelled, 1 1 miles.

April -jlh. — Temp., min., during d.ay, —26.5 [ — 32.s"'C.]. Obs., 5 a. m., —26.0 [ — 3a.2° C.|; 8 p.m.,

-26.0 [-32.2" C.].

(We now generally travel during the night.) To guard the sledge against any accident we divided our
heavy cargo into three small loads, and with two crossed over the roughest part of the ice-foot lo Va\tc
Union, but the strength of the wind, at times 25 to 30 miles per hour f 1 1 to 13"' per second], conipelled us
to return into camp 'at 3 a. m.

Distance travelled, 8 miles. Hours travelled, from •

April ?>lh, — Min., dur. rest, —13.0 [ — 25.o°C.]. Obs., n.30 a. m., —12.0 [ — 24.40c.]; 4 a.m., —14.0
[ — 25.6° C.]; 7 p.m., —4.0 [ — 20.0° C.]; 8 p.m. +4.8 [ — 15.1° C).

It was only at 7 p. m., of the 8th, that (the wind having abated some) we could start. The part of the
load that was intended for a third trip, the iireceding evening was transported at Cape Union IVik. We
returned again at 10 p. m., took the tent, sleeping gear, etc., and started for the hast time from Cape Union.
The fact that we had, in places, to carry all the articles, to unhitch the dogs and drag the sledge, will show
what must have been our labor and the difficulties that encumbered the road. The previous day the sledge
had upset but once. At Cape Union Peak, having passed the worst i)art of the ice-foot, we increased our
weights considerably, leaving behind about 400 lbs. of English beef, reserved for dog food. The wind, that
since the morning of the 7th had not ceased, was then blowing such a gale, perh-'.ps 36 to 40 miles ( 16 to
18'" per second] that in places, over good ice glased [«V] by the sun, it jjushed the sledge faster than the dogs
could run, and, at times, threatened to break it against the hummocks of the road. Two of us only could
keep behind and steer; the other followed, being often compelled to stop and sit down to save himself from
falls or slides. We alternated with Rice, and reached HLick Cape April 9th, at 3 a. m,, having managed to
escape with only half a dozen falls.

Distance travelled, 5 miles. Hours travelled, from 8 p. m. to 3 a. m.

April ^th. — Temp., 7 a. m., +6.5 [—14.2° C).

The temperature was about zero [ — 1 7.8° C], but the strength of the wind made us fully appreciate the
advantage of a colder weather with a calmer atmosphere. It was with difficulty that we could pitch the tent.
As I was cooking supper — or breakfast — (we now could never agree on the order of our meals). Rice com-
menced digging for a house. The wind blew all night with fury, shaking so much our tent that we scarcely
slept. Up early, I prepared breakfast in haste. Rice and Jens finished the house, and when in the very act
of moving in our new quarters a last gust of the gale blew the tent parUy down, scattered many of our
goods, and, as an immense arrow, lifted the sledge and buried the front part of its runners in a snowbank
fully 500 yards [457'"] distant. It was then 3 a. m. of April loth.

April lot/i. — Temp. 5 a.m., 0.0 [ — i7.8''C.].

At 5 a. m. we started, the wind still blowing a strong gale. As we could but with difficulty pass around
Black Cape, for the accumulated pieces of berg, we took to the ice, notwithstanding its hummocky appear-
ance. At 8 a. m. we were again on the foot, and at 10 a. m. at Cape Rawson, were [where] we found

ourselves detained for • hours by the violence of the storm, blowing now at least at the rate of 45 miles

an hour [20"" per second]. It was not only dangerous, but nearly impossible, to proceed further. Just at
the Cape, 40 feet [12"] above the sea level, and badly sheltered behind blocks of paleocrystic bergs, we
entered the sleeping-bags, and, drawing the flaps over our heads, stood very comfortably the assaults and
drifts of a most terrific gale. Velocity of the wind, 45 to 50 miles [20 to 22"" per second].

Distance made, 5^ miles. Hours travelled, from 5 a.m. to 10 a. m.

Aprilwth. — Temp. 3 a. m., -|-io.o[— i2.2°C.]; i p.m., +12.0 [— ii.i°C.]; 2p. m., + 17.0" [—8.3 C.].

* Omission in original.

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THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

At 3 a. m., having been with Jens to look at the state of the ice, and finding it really worse than the foot,
we carried our load, \nece by piece, for a distance of over i,ooo yards [9i4"'J' After taking a cold lunch
(made out of some English pemmican, found the preceding day at the cape), we started. The sky was
cloudy, the drifting still heavy, and the wind blowing with a velocity of 30 to 35 miles [13 to 16"' per second].
From Cape Rawson the coast slopes more gently to seawards, and from Flocberg lieach to Cape Sheridan,
and perhaps to Harley's Spit, can always be travelled by the bays in the fall. At six p. m., we turned around
a small jioint of the coast and descended from a snowy slope on the shore of Flocberg Beach. The storm
had ceased since an hour, leaving in its stead the weather uncomfortably warm. A heavy lead-colored sky,
contrasting fearfully with the whiteness of the fresidy drifted snow, lent to the surrounding landscape a
gloomy appearance. From a distance we could see a large cairn on the top of the Alert's lookout, and
lower, on the brow of a smaller hi'l, some dark object that at first we took for a cache, but was soon found
to be the tomb of Petersen. Ben ith the large stone that covers the remains of the Danish interpreter a
hare had taken up his residence, strangely associating the fact of his presence with the words of the epitaph
engraved on a copper plate at the head of the tomb: "He shall wash me and I shall be as white as snow."
From this hill our hopes of finding a sea free from paleocrystic floes, had vanished. About a mile and a
half from the coast, against which was j)ressed the thickest agglomeration of hummocks that we had yet
seen, and as far as the view could extend (by somewhat thick weather), perhaps ten or twelve miles, the ice
was nearly of the same character as the pack described by the officers of the Altit. Few days later we were
unfortunately destined to make a closer acquaintance with these unmerciful floes. The comparatively
narrow band of heavy and tightly pressed hummocks, of which I have just spoken, bordered the shore from
(.'ape Rawson to Cape Sheridan.

Certainly, in this neighborhood the floes had been broken up and the coast perhaps navigable at
some time in the summer or fall, but at what risk, and with how much danger, it is difficult to say. A ship
tossed by a northeast storm on this exposed shore, without a harbor, and pressed between such piles of ice,
will run great risks.

Captain Nares, somewhere,-speaks of a line of grounded bergs that served as a harbor and shielded
their ship from the pressure of the pack and perha;>s from total-destruction. This spring no floe-bergs could
be seen around the place where the Ahrt must h ve dropped her anchor in 1875. No signs of paleocrystic
ice [were observed] closer than about a mile and a ualf from the coast. After taking a good survey of the
neighborhood we resumed our march. The weather seemeil so warm that when travelling, even in shirt
sleeves, our foreheads were wet with perspiration. Along the coast we found many indices of the British
stay — here an cmiily barrel, there a piece of wood stuck in the ground, and, near Cape Sheridan, the hoops
forming the binding of a flower corbeille showed the spot where their garden had grown. We were struck
by the abundance of snow that covered the surrounding country.

At Cape Sheridan three barrels superposed, and a small boat-mast, to which was still attached a halyard,
marked the place of the highest flagstaff from which had ever floated a Union Jack. Here we left the shore
and travelled towards Harley's Sjjit over apparently continuous paleocrystic ice.

Distance travelled, loi/^ miles. Hours travelled, from 3 a. m. to 1 p. m.

April \2II1. — Temp., min., during rest, —2.0 [— i8.9°C,]; i a. m., -{-3.5 [— i5.8°C.]; 6. a. m., 0.0
[- 17.8° C.]; 9 a. m., + 4.0 [-i5.6°C.].

The 1 2th of April, the weather having been clear in the morning, we had a good, but distant, view of
Cape 'lenry, Rawlins Bay, Marco Polo Bay, and Depot Point. At 2.45 a. m., leaving the tent pitched, we
started for Black Cape after another load of provisions. Tiie Aleri quarters were passed at 6 a. m. and the
snowhouse of Black Cape readied at 9 a. m.

During our absence, the storm that at Cape Rawson had drove [driven] us to our bags, must have
raged here, blockading the entrance of the house and scattering our ehect'. and provisions nearly 500 yards
[457"'J ffom behind the rock where they had been cached. The icefoot was covered with large and small
stones falling from the clifls. At the very same place where our tent stood laid several heavy blocks of slate.
From Cape Union to Floeberg Beach jjarties travelling by windy days are continually exposed to the fall of
projectiles from these ragged and desingragated [disintegrated] tops. The weather was now really so mild
and so pleasant that Rice and Jens slept outdoors in their bag; I still remained faithful to the snowhouse.

Apl. \2,th. — Temp., 11 a. m., + <J'S [— 14'2° C.].

At 10 p. ni., April 1 2th, [13th] we left Black Ca|)e for 1 larley's Spit with a lighter load than the one we
had previously carried. ^Vhen at Floeberg Beach, we ascended the Alerts lookout to take copy of the

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXrEDlTlON.

173

British record and to deposit our own. This cairn, a solid mass of i)iled up stones, ten f^et (3"'] high by
eight [2.4'"] wide — that will stand the storm of many winters — is of an imposing aspect.

About five feet [1.5'"] from the ground a large, iron cylinder, sealed probably by the engineers of the
ship, and in which are secured the documents of the British expedition, is so firmly hold by an enormous
weight of stones that it would be necessary to tear down half of the monument to get at its contents, Heing
wanting in tools to cut through thick iron, and scared at its probable weight, we contented ourselves with
leaving our record in an air-tight rubber mat<h-box well secured by heavy rocks on the side of the Knglish
document.

Distance travelled, 16 miles. Hours travelled, from 2 45 a.m. to 9 a. m,* ,

April \\th. — Temp., 3 a. m., 0.0 [—17.8° C.J ; 2 p. m.,— 5.0 [ — 20.6° C.J ; 3 p. m.,— lo.o [ — 23.3° C.J;
7p.m.,-i3.s[-25.3°C.I.

Oui nours of travelling had been lately so much interverted by bad weather, few long marches, and some
oversleeping, that the 13th of April we were again travelling during the day. The weather was beautiful,
the temperature high, and not a breath of wind was stirring. From Cape Sheridian to View Point, the ice
was a real paleocrystic pack, extending as far as the view could reach. Until 10 a. m. the travelling was fair,
but afterwards it became so tiresome, through deep and recently fallen snow, already softened by the sun,
that at I p.m. we stopped, and, without pitching the tent, waited until 9.05 p. m. to start again. At 12 a. in.
the hauling of the sledge being still too hard on the dogs and the progress made very small, we unloaded
half of our cargo, and then, making better time, at 3 a. m., April 15th, we camped on the ice at View I'oint,
half a mile from the coast, where Lt. Aldrich, on his return journcv, with a scurvy-stricken party, in June,
1876, had abandoned a depot of provisions.
Distance travelled, 16 m.
April iit/i, — Temp., i a, m.,-f-io.o [— i2.2°C.].

From Harley's Spit we had travelled nearly in a straight line to View Point. Rice and Jens returned
lor the complement of our stores. I marched to the foot of Conical Hill and hunted over the whole neigh-
borhood for the cache of pemmican left by Commamler Markham, It was in vain! The depot must have
been removed, as it could not possibly have escaped my careful search. The cache of Lt. Aldrich consisted
of 174 lbs. bacon and pemmican. In the uncertainty in which I had stood concerning the state of these
provisions, I was now, even without the help of Commander Markham, more fully supplied than I had
expected to be when leaving Ft. Conger.

Distance made, 16 miles. Hours travelled, fromt .

April 16//1.— Temp., 6 a. m., 0.0 [ — 17.8° C.J ; in the tent,-f 29.0 ( — 1.7" C.J.

I sent Rice and Jens to Harley's Spit to bring a load of alcohol and preserved mr.^t that we had been
unable to transport on the 1 4th, and that I expected to leave behind haii 1 found the cav he of Commander
Markham. During the absence of the sledge I explored again the neighboriiood, returned to Conical Hill
where I observed numerous traces of muskoxen and on the snow abundant fresh tracks of lemmings, i)tar-
migan, hares, and foxes.

From a high hill of Fcilden Peninsula I could see into James Ross Hay. The ice there did not appear
to be very rough, but from where I stood the view was faint. The bareness of the ground in many places,
overland, and the softness and depth of the .snow in others, decided me to travel around Cape Henry. In
the country over which I pas.sed near View Point, I had found numerous signs of animal life and also proof
of more abundant vegetation than at any other place north of Discovery Harbor. Except the foot-prints
of our bear at Wrangel Bay .and few tnacks of foxes, hares, and lemming, we had reen since March no
indices of anim.il life. Rice travelled 32 miles.

^//v/ 1 7///.— Temp., 12 m., +8.5 [-13.1° C.J; 7 p. m., + i.o [- 17.2° C.J.

Starting the same day, at 7.05 p. m., wc carried our provisions in two loads to about the northern ex-
tremity of Conical Hill, from where, traveling over a good and continuous sheet of level new ice, we reai bed
to about a mile south of Cape Joseph Henry. The ice of this floe was paleocrystic, but to us of a yet un-
known nature, differing in character from what we had travelled over between Harley's Spit and the south
side of Conical Hill. Between the two last-named places the pack was composed of floes, circular and nearly
level but not of great dimension, the largest being perhajw a mile and a half in extent.

At the edges of these was a fringe of bergs an 1 hummocks. Between them were ditches or crevices,
from five to twenty [about 4 to i.H"'J or even fifty yards [46'"J wide, and which must have been at some time
♦Perhaps belongs under April I2th; see that <lnte,— A. W. G, fUmission in original,— A. W, O.

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174

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

filled by young ice. These hollows, originally from three to seven feet [.9" to 2""] deep, were now shallow and,
in places, nearly filled by a mixture of fresh-water ice and frozen snow. Thr -reastwork of hummocks that
once must have made their access difficult, had lost of its height, and liki the edge of the ice itself was
considerably smoothed. Under the powerful influence of the sun of several summers the union of the pack
presented a more even and a better route for travelling. In every place where the recently fallen snow had
blown off the ice was fresh and good for cooking.

From Cape Sheridan to View Point there is a complete absence of last year's ice, and also of tide
marks. In presence of these facts I think it logic to conclude that these floes have been leveled by the thaw
and rain of at least a summer.

The sea was then closed to navigation last fall or perhaps for several years. The fields of young ice, on
which we camped at about ten or fifteen feet [3 or 5'"] from the tidal line of the foot, extended in width
to about two miles from the coast. At a very short distance north it united with the paleocrystic pack
and as a very narrow strip ran along the coast to the west.

The young ice, inchased [sic] to the northeast and south by century floes, proove \su\ again, that, during
fall, the and under the same atmospheric influences than the coast below, perhaps at the same time the
sea must have been open.

Time travelled, 9.40 p. m. to 7.40 a. m. Distance travelled, 8 miles.

/l/>n/ lith and i()th. — Temp., i8th, 10 a. m., —5.5 [— 2o.8°C.]; n p. m., — lo.o [—23.3° C.J. April
19M, all day occillating between — 10 and — 12 [ — 23.3C. and —24.4° C.J.

We passed the i8th and 19th in our tent, being unable to travel on account of a storm. The 19th
one of our dogs died. To the last cheerful and warm days had succeeded a cold and stormy weather. Again
condensation of moisture was deposited on the walls of the tent, and when the dogs, to shelter themselves,
laid against the canvas, we were deluged by cold showers of snow.

April 20th. — The 20th the \vind was still blowing with force, but leaving the tent at 3 a. m. we ad-
vanced a load of provisions about four miles from our camp and two miles on the pack north of the cape.
We returned to the tent at 1 1.30 a. m.

Time travelled, 3 a. m. to 11 a. m. Distance travelled, 8 miles.

April 2 If/. — The day of April 21st opened bright and with a clear sky. The wind was blowing from
the south only at a velocity of 3 or 4 miles per hour[i.3 or 1.8"' per secondj. We started at 1.15 a. m.; on
the way took our load of provision and stopjied at 7.30 a. m., camping on the pack four miles from the coast
and about five from Cape Henry. As I prepared supper Rice and Jens started for a part of our load that
had been again left behind. At 1 1 a. m. they returned, having been caught in a violent storm from fhe
SP2. The previous day when north of Cape Henry, at the spot where we deposited part of our load, and
from the top of some high floebergs, we had an excellent but discouraging look at the pack.

West of the line of young ice, that bordered the mass Cape Henry, the Polar Sea was of such rough
appearance that no sledge, even lightly loaded, could have made any progress over its discorded surface.
It was notliiiig but an inextricable maze of huge bergs and of enormous hummocks piled up in a similar
manner as when travelled over by Con.rnander Markham, who, I am glad to say, has certainly not exag-
gerated his hardships or cloaked his description with romantic colors. If such was the ice over which the
British dragged heavy loads and cumbersome boats, instead of being astonished at the small distance daily
travelled, I, on the cositrary, sympadiize with them in their sufferings, admire their perseverance, and applaud
heartily their pluck and gallantry.

Directly north of Cajjc Henry, and at a certain distance from us, perhaps three or four miles, the con-
fusion of the ice was the same ; discouraging in its compactness. To the northeast this line of thick-ribbed
ice lowered, and due north of Cape Hecla seemed to be of a less ponderous character. It was there that
the 2ist of April we had decided to take a northward course; stumbling over a less dense pack we could
add the advantage of establishing a depot for our return, and of getting a good view from the summit of
the high cliffs of Hccla.

The ice over which we travelled since we hail left the young floe at Cape Henry, for not being so bad
as the floes in the offing, was nevertheless in many places of a very difficult access. It differed from what
we had found between Harley's Spit and Conical Hill, in the fact that here the edges of the floes were cut
at sharp angles, and that the hollows, some of which measured a depth of seven feet [2"'J and a width of
from <^o to 100 yards [46 to 91 ""J, had not yet been partly filled with the melted snow of previous seasons.

THE LADY FRA.NKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

175

Some were fortified with fringes of high hummocks, between or over which we passed with difficiiUy. Others,
like immense pieces of flat and broken crystal, offered a perpendicular ascent and descent from and in deep
snow.

Smaller and treacherously concealed cracKs, in which dogs often disappeared and men sank to the waist,
were numerous. ,

Time travelled, from i a. m. to 7.30 a. m. Distance travelled, 10 miles.

April 22(f, '82. — The 22A of April we were up at 3 a. m., the night having been exceedingly storny.
Wind from SE., about 40 miles per hour [about 18'" per second]. At 5 a. m., the tent remaining pitched,
we started for " Cape Hecla." To the stormy atmosphere of the night had succeeded a calm and warm day,
streaming with light, but without shadows, and enveloping everything in a tiresome uniformity. The pack,
covered in places with deep snow and rough ice, appeared to us as an even float over which the tops of
the highest bergs alone would project. A few yards ahead of our sledge we could scarcely detect the un-
evenness of the ice, and occasionally, at our feet, we were obliged to look or to feel if to raise or to lower
the step. Our sense of vision was disagreeably confused. The horizon appeared clear, and everything
showed distinctly except in our immediate neighborhood. To the left the high mountains of James Ross
Bay detached vividly their ice clad peaks from the cloudless background of a pale blue sky, as to the west
Crozier Island its summit, bald of snow, over the fringes of bergs and hummocks that bordered our horizon.

We were advancing since two hours, and the deceptions of the nearing had ceased. Some black spots
in the unfractuosity of the cliffs of Cape Hecla were showing with enough distinctness to already attract
our attention, when suddenly Jens exclaimed, "Water"! After a careful search over the horizon, failing to
perceive anything, and thinking that perhaps he meant a tidal crack, we proceeded; but half an hour's march
told the tale. The unmistakable signs of water had struck the keen vision of the Eskimo.

We stopped the sledge in the center of the paleocrysticiue [paleocrystic] float on which we stood and at
once advancing about a quarter of a mile we climbed to the top of a high marginal wall of rubble and bergs.
At our feet a band of hummocky ice, of a more recent forn-ation, extended for two or three hundred yards
[183 or 274'"!; then to the coast. Cape Hecla, a channel was open a mile wide, in which floated to the SE.,
and at a velocity of about two miles per hour [.g™ per second], small and rare pieces of ice. For three or
four miles, as far as the perspective allowed, the eye could follow them. Here, on account of the convexity
of the floes, the line of water seemed to close at the entrance of James Ross's Bay against a margin of ice
and about by the meridian of Crosier Island. To the west this oi)ening, increasing in width, passed Cape
Hecla, extending as far as we could see from hummocks thirty feet [9'"] high. From the side of the i)ack
wheie we stood, following the edges of our floes and several larger ones above, it took a more northerly
direction. Here again, as to the SE., a convex curve of the j)ack, the deception of perspective, and in the
ofting high fringes of hummocks closed to the view its northern extension. When at first .ascending to ')ur
place of observation, the heart of Jens was tenderly moved by the appearance of a fiord seal. . Smacking
his lips and winking, our Eskimo, in an extraordinary quick oration, interrupted I - sighs and mixed with
expressions of the deepest epicurian love, paternally addressed the amphibio^.s anim.il. Thinking that
perhaps with a change of tide the pack would move towards the coast, we decided to return to our camp
and bring the rest of our baggage.

When starting it certainly appeared to us that the ice had pivoted more to the north, taking Feilden
Peninsula as base of evolution. The comp.ass having been left in the tent we drove in the snow an extra
cross-piece of the sledge and took sight at Cape Hecla. When we returned, I't 1 1.35 a m., the pack still
moving in the same direction had considerably shifted to the north, opening to our view new lines of coast
and three capes, of which I took the farthest to be t'ape Columbia. The channel had now wiilened at least
one mile between us and Cape Hecla. An opening, large enough for a dozen ships to steam, extended in
the direction of the farthest promontory from which r.aised dense clouds, indicating, perhaps, the presence
of more extensive water. Far to the north, beiiind the convex band of our floats, and still at a greater dis-
tance to the E. and NE. of Cape Henry, the experienced eye of Jens detected again in liie sky faint but
unmistakable signs of water. Still the current or tide was setting to the SE. As the channel of water
seemed there not to extend at the most farther than the coast of Feilden Peninsula, wc supposed that the
pack must still bear on Cape Joseph Henry. But this conclusion was drawn, with the protest of Jens, who
afhrmed seeing water along the coast of James Ross's Bay and Feilden Peninsula. To proceed north was
now out of the question.

A .. m

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THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

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] :

Dark water-clouds, thick to the west and to the north and northeast, distinctly seen by our Eskimo,
showed that water, of an extent that certainly it had been difficult to determine, must be open on the pass
laid before us. The whole pack, or at least extensive floats, disaggregated, probably, by the numerous and
violent storms of April, and perhaps set in motion during the gale of the previous night, had broken from
the margin of young ice that must have bounded the coast from Conical Hill to an unknown distance. As
it was impossible to successfully perform the task for which we had perseverently labored, we decided at once
to reach Cape Henry.

Dividing in haste our load, and taking of our effects what was indispensable, with enough provisions to
sustain ourselves and the dogs for several days, we at once started over the road previously followed. In
the evening, at 4.30 p. m., we arrived opposite Cape Henry, where we found a large channel of water extend-
ing from the edge of the pack to the ice-foot of the cape, about J^ to a mile in extent. Once more the cor-
rectness of Jens' observation had not been at fault.

As our retreat was now entirely cut off — and as for the present, out of a hundred means of escape no
good one could be planned — we decided to remain here, six or seven hundred yards [549 or 640'"] from the
water, on a large and heavy paleocrystique [paleocrystic] floe, surrounded and protected by thick armor 01
compact ice. As we would soon have to keep a continued watch. Rice turned in his bag to rest, and I
started with Jens and the team after the load left near Cape Hecla.

At 8 p. m. we were once more at our place of observation, where again we saw the seal. The water-
clouds had expanded into blnck vapors, and the channel from the edge of the float to the cape [HeclaJ was
at least three miles wide. To the N. and NE. the clouds first detected by Jens were now very distinct. Still
the current or tide was floating pieces of ice towards Cape Herry. The sledge once packed, I waved the
" Stars and Stripes " and started east, being at a latitude of 82° 56' N.

My design was now, if possible, to transport my provisions on the ice-foot of Cape Henry, and to follow
the coast as far as fifteen days of full rations would allow us, preserving 10 days for the return.

A/iri/ 23//, '82. — I reached the camping-floe at 3 a. m., April 23d, having experienced a heavy northeast
snow-storm, blown, evidently, from the open water. During our march the floe had shifted to the east.
Tired and sleepy, and for the present condemned to inaction, we entered our bags, leaving Rice on observa-
tion at the top of a berg nearly 30 feet [9'"] high. At 7 p. m., having slept only few hours, the watch called
me. The pack was shifting to the east, opening now to the view the south coast of Feilden Peninsula as dn
as Conical Hill. To seaward, for about 3 or 4 miles south and 6 or 7 east, floats were broken and in motion.
The wind had again changed its direction and was blowing from the SE. To the west deep and prolonged
roaring proved that the pack must be now grinding against the coast.

Without discussing on what could have happened if we had stayed on the float, I will say that we
decided to load at once with our most indispensable effects, and with food enough to reach Harley's Pit (SpitJ.
Leaving behind all our provisions, and the tent still pitched, we drove to the foot of Cape Henry. The
pack was here grinding against the perpendiculer wall of a high ice-foot about 40 feet [12'"], and in places
pressing up large pieces of rubble from the fringes of the paleocrystique [paleocrysticj floes. Large blocks of
ice, of great solidity, and which had been wedged between the foot and the pack, were split under such
pressure and raised in succession to fall again over the tidal line.

Rice, in whose judgment and decision I would implicitly trust, advised to cross here, but, knowing the
peevish disposition of the Eskimo dogs, and their obstinacy when crossing over loose ice, I hunted for a
better |)lace. lieing unable to find any we returned to the cape, and after clearing the traces we pushed
the (logs where Rice had first suggested to |)ass. As l)y magic, at the very instant in which we advanced
the jiack stopped. It had reached the moment when the contrary impulse lately given by the south wind
contra acting the impulse from the preceding NW. gale, produced immobility. The dogs began to fight,
and Jens, quite stunned, busied himself with details ordinarily very appropriate in driving, but for the present
out of season. I pushed to the sledge as hard as ever I have pushed, while Rice, unhitching a dog, led the
way. At the wall of the foot we unloaded, and, having hoisted our brutes with a sealskin lash, we pulled
up our articles and afterwards the sledge.

Once out of the lion's jaws, we felt that it would be unwise to return on the pack. The deep groans of
the ice proved that the motion had not entirely stopped, and that at any moment the floes could be set again
in motion, and perhaps seperate [sic] us from parts of our provisions. Moreover, the ice, as far as we could

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

177

see to the east and south, through an atmosphere overcast with water-clouds, was broken up and still drift-
ing south. To us it was probable that Robeson Channel was open, and the greatest haste was necessary.

If the ice had broken between Cape Henry and Cape Sheridan, we would have been obliged to follow
the indentation of the coast around numerous bays, depending for our subsistence on three or four day's
rations. After melting ice and eating a handful of pemmican we started, followed by the grinding noise of
the pack, similar to the spasmodic breathing of gigantic tugboats.

At the foot of Conical Hill, where we had previously taken to the young ice, the paleocrystic pack, that
I thought had withstood the decay of last summer, was still firmly fastened to the shore.

April 2\th, '8?. — At 12 m., April 24th, '82, we camped at View Point. From this day we were obliged
to sleep in our bags without the shelter of a tent. Distance made, 5 miles.

April 25, '82. — At 8 a. m., April 25, '83, we deposited a record in the old EngUsh cairn, and travelled
all day in the worst and the thickest snow-storm that I have ever encountered.

We reached Harley's Pit [Spit] at 6 p. m. Distance travelled, 16 miles.

April id, '82 — 9 a. m. , — 3.0 [—19.4° C.J; 9 p. m., — lo.o [—23.3° C.]. At 9 a. m., April 26, we were
again on the road and following our outward tracks which, in many places, could yet be found ; at 7 p. m.
we reached the snow house of Black Cupe. From Cape Sheridan, south of the paleocrystic pack, the ice
was broken, in motion, and in places separated by large lanes of water. To the north and northeast the sky
was dark. Distance travelled, 16 miles.

April 27. — 10 ::. m., —5.5 [—20.8° C] ; 8 p. m., — ...o [ — 20.0° C.]. The 27th of April the wind blew
from the south and opened between the solid ice of I. son Channel and the loose floes above, a space of
about a mile wide, and of which the transversal end Oisappeared two or three miles from the coast in brown
vapors of open water. This day we travelled over solid ice to Lincoln Bay. Distance travelled, 1 5 miles.
Time travelled, from 8.30 p. m. to 5 a. m.

Aptil 28 and 29 — 28th, 7 a. m., —5.0 [ — 20.6° C] ; 7 p. m., —6.5 [ -21.4° C] 29th, 3 a. ni., —7.0
[— 2i.7°C.]; 9 p.m., -lo.o [-23.3° C.].

The 28th and 29th of April we searched for an inland route between Lincoln and Wrangell Bay, but
being led to \sic\ far to the west and north we returned to the coast, having travelled about 30 miles.

April 30, '82 At 4 a. m., April 30, we camped at Wrangell Bay. Hours travelled, from 9 a. m. to 4

p. m. Distance travelled, 8^ miles.

May I, '82. — 9 a. m. +1.0 [—17.2° C.]; 9 p. m., +13.0 [—10.6° C.].

The first of May, at 6 a. m., we were once more at the fastly decaying snow house at Shift Rudder Bay.
Distance travelled, 14^!^ miles.

May 2d, '82. — The 2d of May we entered Ft. Conger, having been unsuccessful in the main object of
our journey, but having determined the important fact that last fall open water could have been found as
far as Cape Sheridan, and from Conical Hill, perhaps, to Cape Columbia. Moreover, our experience confirm,
to a certain extent, that of the Polaris, and prove that even in so high a latitude the pack may be in motion
at any early period of the year, perhaps at any time. I am firmly convinced that, but for the misfortune of
finding open water, we could have, without yet distancing much Commander Markham, reached, perhaps,
the latitude of 84° N. Although I had been stopped by water, where I expected to travel over ice, I,
nevertheless, disbelieve the existence of an open polar sea. "A myth to the ignorant and a wonder to the
wise." Notwithstanding a careful lookout kept by our party, no signs of the presence of the 'yeanette
could be found. We returned in excellent health. Daily rations of lime-juice had been issued during the
outward march. Rice has showed himself to be of the greatest assistance. His natural intelligence, accom-
panied with his education, his sound judgment, and his great perseverance, recommend him as the best of
companions and as a man fit in any way to command a party.

I add here the list of Government stores taken from caches, and those left on the polar pack north of
Cape Joseph Henry:

Stores taken from Wrangell Bay : 14 lbs. of pemmican ; i can of butter; i can of milk; i can of extract
of beef.

Stores from Mt. Parry : 30 lbs. of dog pemmican (70 lbs. were eaten by a bear) ; about 7 5 lbs. of bread ;
4 cans of butter.

Provisions left on the float : *

^\ ''

* This list of provisions was not given in the original, in which half a page was left blank evidently for the purpose of enter-
ing them. A. W. Greely, Lt.

H. Mis. 393 12

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THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

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1 1

Respectfully submitted to ist Lieut. A. W. Greely, sth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Asst., commanding the
Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.

Octave Paw,
Acting Assistant Surgeon, U. S. Army,
This report, incomplete in many respects, has been received only at this late day (July 23) after repeated
orders and requests for its prompt rendition.

A. W. Greely,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant, Commanding Expedition.
Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, yufy 23, 1882.

Appendix No. 48. — Sergeant Ricc^s report on detached trip from Lincoln Bay to Fort Conger

and return.

Fort Cokger, Grinnell Land, yuly 24, 1882.

Sir: In accordance with your wish, I hereby submit a short statement of the main features of my
uneventful tramp to the home station (to procure sledge-runner) while a member of your northern sledge
party m March and April of this year.

As you will remember, we left Lincoln Bay for the North at 6.30 p. m., April i ; and the false start resulting
in our misfortune at Cape Union, and return to the snow house, occupied five and a half hours. Another
hour was passed in waiting for the pannikin of tea for you and us, and in making our preparations, after
which, at 1 a. m., April 2, 1 started, accompanied by Jens. We took with us the shoe of the broken runner,
as you thought it would expedite the work on a new one at Fort Conger.

Our outfit was extremely simple, consisting of a small spirit lamp, a little spirits, and sufficient preserved
meat and chocolate for a lunch. We also carried large knives with which to dig for ourselves a burrow in
the hard snow should we be overtaken by storm or accident before reaching our first possible resting place,
thesnowhutat Shift Rudder Bay. The thermometer .stood — 42° [— 4fi° C] when we started ; thesunwas
just appearing above the icy horizon to the north, pouring a flood of light down the straits, coruscating and
glistening on the hummocks and ice-points in our rough path in a manner that caused us to lose sight of the
beauty of the scene in the discomfort of the effect upon our eyes. It was difficult to wear our goggles as the
condensing moisture obscured them and rendered our steps uncertain.

Thinking we could effi;ct a shorter route by foot over the bay than that necessarily taken by the loaded
sledges, we struck directly across for the bold point of Cape Frederick VII. We soon found ourselves com-
plef.' ly beset by hummocks and snow-drifts; and were glad to find the original path indicated by the marks
of tlic sledges. We traveled rapidly, checking our pace only when we alternated in carrying the shoe; and
examined our faces, which sometimes required the application of a warm hand to efface the white seal set
upon us by the slight breeze that was storming. Considerable elation was felt when our tenting place in
Wrangell Bay, representing one day's march while outward bound, was passed. We experienced much
difficulty in progressing through the great confusion of hummocks and rubble ice at the entrance of the bay.
We soon after fell in with our bear tracks ; and, inadvertently following them for a short distance, found the
traveling so much improved that we unhesitatingly followed them through the intricacies along the ice-foot,
and had no cause to regret our choice. Bruin's admirable ice pilotage partly condoned his offense in eating
our pemmican.

We began to weary about the time Cape Beechey was doubled ; and the remaining four miles around
the long curve of Shift Rudder Bay was not made with ease. My companion, who before had always a re-
assuring smile and shake of the head to my "Tired, Jens ?" now began to reply less confidently, and soon
answered with a strong affirmative; though he still cheerfully reminded me that it was his turn to carry the
iron. The walking from Cape Beechey to depot B was very tiresome, though smooth, as the frosty, sandy snow,
resting on the ice, furnished a very unstable foothold, our polished moccasins slipping back half the stride
which was already short enough.

Despite our strong desire to move on, progress without occasional rests was not easy to make, and a
line of small, decayed hummocks skirting our course furnished us with resting places. As soon as we would
touch the icy seat I would find myself dozing, and would discover Jens with his head nodding to his breast,
or stretched at full length on the snow fast asleep. When near depot B Jens wished to stop and rest awhile,

THE LADY FRANKLIN IJAY EXPEDITION.

179

but I induced him to proceed to within a few hundred yards of my destination. I then leff him and went
on to the hut, intending to look to him so soon as a f..o was started. He joined me in about fifteen minutes.
Doubtless Jens's exhaustion was due to the greater exertions he made and worry he had undergone in
getting the dogs, with broken sledge, back to Lincoln liay, for T am sure that Iiis powers of endurance are
greater than my own.

We reached the snow house at 2.30 p. m., altogether nineteen hours, and covering at least forty miles.
It is difficult to state exactly the distance traveled, as our ])ath through the rough ice was very tortuous, and
a long detour had to be made in getting out of Lincoln Hay. We turned in the sleeping-bag, after a hasty
meal of baked beans, which we gave hardly time to thaw. I intended resuming the march in a few hours —
as soon as we had been rested — but did not succeed in waking until 8 o'clock the next morning, .^pril 3.
We had trusted our toot-gear to the influence of the stove, but after rising were compelled to return to the
warm bag and nurse it (our foot-gear) into flexibility. We started for the home station at 1 1 a. m., and arrived
there eight hours later. We attempted several short cuts, but, with the exception of the one across Brenta
Bay, fared worse than if we had followed the old track. The weather was very pleasant, compelling us to
doff our lemiuks [hooded seal-skin jackets] and suspend them to our belts.

Our sudden and unexpected reappearance at Fort Conger caused considerable excitement and appre-
hension for the safety of our party. On reporting to the commander, he at once ordered the carpenter to
begin making a new runner, and he worked on it until midnight. We learned that the large Greenland
party had just departed, and had missed meeting us by proceeding around Distant Cape while we Avere
cutting across land from Water-course Bay.

On Tuesday, April 4, after another good meal, surrountied by the comparatively luxurious appoint-
ments of Fort Conger, Jens and I started back to join you again. The sledge-runner was completed, and
Lieutenant Greely made the arrangement so advantageous to us that he would follow us to depot B with
Lieutenant Lockwood, who was to start in a few hours with Jewell, Frederick, and dog-sledge, to join the
main party. We reached depot B at 11.30 j). m., finding the Creenland party just arrived from depot A.
Lieutenant Lockwood, with dog sledge, came in at 3 a. m., next morning. •

Wednesday, April 5, at 3.30 p. m., we bid "good-by " to the Greenlanders, who had entertained us so
kindly, and moved on northward. We carried the runner by supporting part of its weight, only allowing
one end to drag. We assumed the burden alternately and made very good time. The temperature when
starting was only —22 [— 30.0° C], but the cold increased perceptibly, although we had no means of measuring
its intensity. We entered Wrangell Bay at midnight, and, keeping inside the line of our hummocks at its
entrance, visited the cache on the north side, finding everything in good condition — nothing disturbed by
the bear. After stopping long enough to melt a little ice we continued on around Mount Parry.

The morning of Thursday, April 6, was bright and clear, and we entered Lincoln Bay in a dazzling
blaze of light. On nearing the snow house, Jens was received by more than three cheers from his dogs, and
a few moments later I was giving you the latest news from Fort Conger. It was 6 a. m. We had traveled
the distance from depot B, including the stops at Wrangell Bay, in about fifteen hours.
Yours, respectfully,

Geo. W. Rice,
Sergeant, Signal Scn'ia: U. S. Army.

Dr. Octave Pavy,

Acting Assistant Surgeon, (J. S. A.

Appendix No. 49. — Private Loitj^\s report on trip into Arc/irr Fiord.

Fort Conger, Grinnei.l Land, May 20, 1882.

Sir: In compliance with your order of May 14, directing me, with Private William Whisler, to proceed
to Depot Point, in Archer Fiord, and examine the provisions at that point, I have the honor to make the
following report :

We left Fort Conger at 12.05 ^- '^•> ^^V '5' ^^'^^^ Hudson Bay sledge Pol/y, arriving at tent in Basil
Norris Bay at 9.30 a. m. At this point I left Private Whisler at 7 p. ni., and proceeded ahead on snow-shoes,
directing him to follow with the sledge and await my return at Keppel Head.

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THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

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I arrived at the latter point at 2 a. m., 16th. From here proceeded to Depot Point, where I arrived at
11.30 p. n»., and found the depot in good condition, except a portion of the hard bread, which had become
mouldy from exposure.

The depot contained the following provisions :

Articles.

Amount.

Condition.

I'enimican ...

84 lbs

21 lbs.

71 ll>s

Good.

Do.

Moldy.

Good.

Do.

Kacon

Hard bread. ...

Chocolate

51/ lbs

Sucar

10 '4 lbs . . ..

I'otatoes

lo"^ lbs

2M lbs

Tea

Salt

10^ oz

Pepper . . . _

A>4 0/.

Onion powder

Rum

10',^ OZ _ . . .

1 gall, and 10 gills ..

2 calls. (?)

Spirits of wine . .

Tobacco .

2 lbs. 5 OZ .

A considerable <|uantity of stearinc was found, which had melted and
run over the hard bread.

I left at 12.45 *• ""m ^1^^> meeting Private Whisler at Hare Point. He had left the sledge at Keppel
Head. We arrived at the latter point on our return at i p. m., and made camp. I had been on the match
for thirty hours with no refreshment except at Depot Point. We left Keppel Head at 9 p. m., reaching the
tent at 7 a. m., i8th. We broke camp at 8 p. m., and arrived at Fort Conger at 2.15 a. in.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

Francis Long,

Lieut. A. W. CiREELV, Bivate, Company F, Ninth Infantry.

First Lieut., Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Co>nmanding Expedition,

appf:ndix.

I was unable to find the depot of 192 rations — as given on the map of the English expedition — at Hil-
lock's Depot. I made a thorough search, but concluded that the cache was covered with snow, which was
very deep at this point.

Note. — Depot visited by Private Long proved to be Hillock's Deiwt. The 112 rations left in bags
could not be found, nor notice left by Lieutenant Archer, R. N., regarding them. As Depot Point had 84
rations, the error was natural to Private Long, who found (as did' Lieutenant Lockwood subsequently) 84
rations, and 84 only, at Hillock's Depot. — A. W. G.

Depot for 12- man sledge for 7 days = 84 rations.

Pemmican (one 56; one 28 lb. tin) ..84lbs. o oz.

Bacon (one 20 lb. tin ; i lb. bacon in ])Otato tin) 21 lbs. o oz.

Biscuit (50 lbs. in India-rubber case; 23 lbs. 8 oz. in potato can) 73 lbs. 8 oz.

Chocolate 5 lbs. 4 oz.

Sugar. 2 ll)s. 10 oz.

Tea 2 lbs. 10 oz.

Sugar_. - 7 lbs. 14 oz.

Potatoes 10 lbs. 8 oz.

Salt olbs. \oyi oz.

Pepper olbs. A'A oi.

Onion powder olbs. 10^ oz.

Rum I gall. 10 gills.

Methylated spirits.. I gall. 10 gills.

Stearine 15 lbs. 12 oz.

Tobacco ........ 2 lbs. 10 oz.

Robert W. Archer.

THK LADY I'ltANKUN HAY KXlMiDITION.

Appendix No. 50. — Sergeant Israefs report on trip into the Hellows.

181

Fort Conger, Grinneu, Land, yutie 16, 1882,

Sir : I have the honor to make the following report on my trip to the Bellows Valley. I left the station
on May 25, at 1 1.25 p. m., with Private Connell. We took with us the light Hudson Bay sledge Polly, five
days' provision, spirit lamp, snow-shoes, pocket sextant, artificial horizon, prismatic compass, an aneroid
barometer, maximum and minimum thermometers (Beck's), a rifle and ammunition. We reached Musk-ox
Bay at 1 a. m. of the 26th. From this point we kept the ice-foot as far as French Cape, finding pretty fair
traveling; reached the tent at head of Basil Norris Bay at 6.20 a. m. At 7 a. m. the exposed thermometer
read +7.5 [ — 13.6° C.]; aneroid barometer, 30.23 [767.83"""]; attached thermometer, 30 [ — 1.1° C.]. Wind,
calm. Clouds, upper, cirro-stratus, ■^, moving from the north slowly.

During our march we saw numerous wolf, fox, hare, lemming, an<l musk-ox tracks ; also saw several
musk-oxen on Sun Peninsula moving eastward. Breakfasted at 7.10, and then retired and slept until 6 p. m.
The meteorological instruments read as follows: Thermometer, exposed, +14.0 [ — lo-o'C.]; min., +7

[— i3.90°C.J; max., +2o[— 6.7°C.]; bar., 30.16 [766.05' ]; att.ther.,31 [ — o.6°C.j. Wind, NW., light.

Clouds; cirrus, T%, calm ; no lower. Weather clear.

Left the tent at 7.25 p. m., and after an hour and a (piarter's hard pulling, over partially bare ground,
we reached Bleak Head. As seen from this point the Bellows was entirely bare of snow for a distance of
about six miles. I therefore thought it best to leave the sledge at this point to devote the night to an
exploration of the Black Rock Vale, and after a rest to go up the Bellows as far as possible without sledge.
At 8.45, bar., 30.16 [766.05"""] ; att., 39 [ + 3.3" C). Compass bearing of entrance of vale, 203° 30'. To
reduce compass bearing to true bearing E. of N., add 77° 50', the magnetic variation being 102° 10'.

After half an hour's walk we came to a creek bed filled with snow ; this induced me to change my pur-
pose and go back for the sledge, which we reached at 9.40 p. m. Temperature of air, 4-23." [ — 5-o" C.].
After about an hour's hard pull over bare ground we reached the creek bed and followed this up the Bellows.
The snow soon got so deep that we put on our snow-shoes at 1 1.20. Made camp at 12.20 a. m., of the 27th,
on the east side of the valley about i^ miles below Devil's Head. At this camp we found a considerable
quantity of coal and some pieces of wood among the sand; also numerous pieces of substances resembling
resin. The valley in the vicinity had been recently crossed by a herd of musk cattle, there being numerous
tracks crossing the valley diagonally NE. to SW. Bar., 30.05 [763.26"""]; att. then, 36 [+2.2'' C.j; exp.
ther., 34 [-|-i.i°C.]. Wind N., light. Clouds, upper, cirro-cumulus, ^q, calm, no lower. After supper
Connell found the skull of a musk-ox, of apparently great age. Retired at 1.30 a. m. At n.30 a. m., bar.,
30-05 [76326"""]; att. then, 40 [+4-4° C.J; exp. then, 35.0 [+1.7° C] ; min., 30.0 [—1.1° C.j; max., 45.0
[-1-7.2° C.]. Wind S., .noderate. Upper clouds hidden; lower, stratus, 10, calm.

- Left Camp II at 12.20 p. m. At Devil's Head, 1.15 p. m., ban read 30.00 [761.99"""]; att. then, 38
[-(-3.3° C.]; exp., 34.5 [-|-i4° C.]. Made camp at 3.50 p. m., about four or five miles btlow what seemed
to be the end of the valley, or a sharp turn in it. At 5 p. m., ban, 29.95 [760.72"'"'] ; att. then, 36 [4-2.2° C.];
exp., 32.9 [-1-0.5° C]. Wind S., strong. Upper clouds hidden ; lower, stratus, 10, calm.

We made our camp in a ravine on the west side of valley, about three-eighths of a mile above a point
of low land extending over half-way across the valley from the west.

May 28. — Got up at 12.00 midnight. At 12.02 a m., ban, 29.96 [760.97"""]; att. then, 32 [0.0° C]; exp.,
29.5 [— 1.4° C ]; min., 29.0 [—1.7° C.]; max., 42 [ + 5.6° C.]. Wind S, light. Upper clouds hidden ; lower,
stratus, 10, NE. C). Started to climb a mountain on the west side of valley, but after ascending about 100
feet [30""] we saw a herd of fourteen musk-oxen asleep just above our camp. We then returned, and Connell
shot two cows and a yearling. After driving off the rest of the herd we skinned these. Had breakfast at
3 a. m.

The sun having in the mean time broken through the clouds I took six sights for longitude and six for
magnetic variation. Deduced longitude west of Fort Conger 6™ 10.4" [in time] ; <p 81° 47.7'. Magnetic
variation, 102° 10' W.

While taking these observations Connell saw a wolf or fox on the mountain to our west. Placing our
instruments on the sledge, we started for the end of the valley at 4.50 a. m. and arrived at the turn at 6.50.
The valley here turns to the north and narrows rapidly, the mountain on the west being high, while on the
east the land slopes up very gradually. At 6.55, ban 29.85 [758.18"""] ; att. then, 37 [-|-2.8° C.]; exp., 31.5
[—0.3° C.J. I sent Connell up the mountain on the west while I proceeded up the valley Jbr about three

I:,'

< »

182

TDK LADY FltANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

miles. The valley at this point is about 30 rods [about iso"] wide and splits into two narrow ravines, one
extending up a mountain side for about a mile, and the other terminating in the same manner alter extend-
ing to the north about three miles. As there is no turn in either of these passes, there can be no doubt that
the valley ends here instead of communicating with another running in from the east, as I first thought, I
returned to the sledge at 8.50, and Connell aniveil about ten minutes later. He re|K)rted that the lai. \ was
a high plateau as far as he could see ; his view was partially obscured by low clouds. He identified several
peaks, the bearings of which he took. At 9.05, aneroid, 29.86 [758.43'""']; att. ther., 42 [-(-5.60 c.]; exp.
ther., 33.1 [-f-o.6'' C.]. The barometer at top of mountain read 28.30 [720.84'""']. Took a set of circum-
meridian altitudes, twelve sights. Deduced latitude 81° 53.9'. Longitude, by dead-reckoning from Camp
III, 7™ 44.4" [in time] W. of l-ort Conger.

Compass bearings: Center of valley, N. 395° 00' SK. 70 30°'. C?amp III, 75° 55'.

Arrived at Camp III at 2.15 p.m.

May 29. — Breakfast at 3 a. m. At 3.30 a. m., bar., 29.78 [756.40"""] ; att. ther., 36" [-f 2.2° C.]; exp.
ther., 31.9° [—0.1° C]. Two sun dogs 22° from sun. Left Camp III at 4.15 a. m.

Compass bearings: I-'rom Camp III, jjlace wliere observation was taken, 265° 45'; point of lowland,
distant ^ of mile, 69° 30'; from jioint of lowland cairn erected near the meat (256° 00'); Camp III, 256°
00' ; along center of valley SE., 80" 1 5' ; along center of valley N \V., 257° 30' ; point at the turn of Bellows
on east side, 262° 30'.

Stopped at 5.20 a. m., about three miles above Devil's Head, to take measurements of width of valley
and height of cliffs. Width, 4,280 ft. [1,304'"] ; height of cliffs, west, 1,999 ft. [609"']; east (1,325 ft. [404""])
[?]. Arrived at Devil's Head at 7 a. m. Aneroid, 29 94 [760.46"'"'] ; att. ther., 34° [-f i.i° C.]. Arrived
at Camp II at 8.35 a.m. At 8.50 a. m., bar., 29.91 [759.70'"'"]; att. ther., 46° [7.8° C.j exp., 40.8°
[-1-4.9° C.]. Upper clouds, cir. strat., -,i„, calm, no lower.

Compass bearings: From Devil's Head, center of valley, 259°; north entrance of Black Rock Vale,
92° 5'. From Camp II, Devil's Head, 287° j'; south entrance of Black Rock Vale, 97° 5'.

Took set of circum-meridian sights for latitude of Camp II. Sun obscured after 5th sight. Approxi-
mate latitude, 81° 45'.6. Left Camp II at 1 1.36 a. m. ; came to low ground about one mile and a half NE. of
I eak Head. We found it impo.ssible to pull the sledge, antl had to carry the greater part of our load on our
backs, and come back for the sledge. We finally found some snow when within a mile of the tent, which
we reached at 4 p. m. At 4.30 j). m , bar., 29.95 [760.72"'"']; att. then, 42 [+56° C.J; exp. ther., 36°

[-1-2.2° C.].

Afay 30. — Got up at 6 a. m., but turned in again as it was stormy; it had snowed all night. Got up
again at 9 a. m. As the weather was not improving I determined to delay no longer, although it had been
my desire to determine the position of the tent. Before leaving took an inventory of the provision, &c., at the
tent. At 9.50, bar., 30.10 [764.53"""]; att. then, 44 [-1-6.7° C.]; exp., 27 [ — 2.8° C.] Wind, E., strong.
Upper clouds hidden, lower, nimbus, 10, calm. Snow.

Left tent at 10.15 ^' "'• Arrived at P'ort Conger at 5.15 p. m.
I remain, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

Edward Israel,
Sergeant, Signal Corps, U. S. A.
Lieut. A. W. Greely,

First Lieutenant, Fifth Cai^alry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Lady I'ranklin Bay Expedition.

liii

li 1

Appendix No. 51. — Lieutenant /.ockn<ood\s orders to explore north coast of Greenland.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, March 21, 1882.

Sir: You are hereby charged with the full control and arrangement of the most miportant sledging
and geographical work of this ex|)eiiition, the exploration of the northeastern coast of Greenland.

In assigning you to this duty I am not unaware of the difficult, if not embarrassmg, position in which
you are necessarily ])laced, from our inability to lay out suitable depots to the northeast during the past
autumn, from the limited number of your supporting parties, and from your working with a wide shait,
covered with the roughest ice, between your base of supplies and field of operations.

1 J

TIIK LADY FUANKLiN »AY KXl»Kl)ITION.

183

„

The enterprise, energy, and discretion displayed during your attempt in November last to cross Robeson
Channel in furtherance of this work, united to your en<iurance and experience (shown by nearly 200 niiii's
field work this season, with temperature hjwer than ninety degrees below the freezing point [ — 50° C.|), give
me strong assurances that lack of success will be through no fault of yours.

There will be at your disposal for this work : Sergeants Urainard, I. inn, Ralston, Jewell, Klison,
and Corporal Salor; Privates Biederbick, Connell, Frederick, Whisler, and one other to be selecteil. I'<>g-
slcdge Antoinette, with its team of eight dogs, and its driver, Frederick T. Christensen, are placed at your
disposal, with such Hudson Hay sledges as you wish. These men dragging the supporting sledges will be
used in such manner, and for such length of time, as you deem best. The details for the trip will be
arranged by you. Memoranda showing the location of all supplies to the northward of depot A, and the
sledging ration, will be at once furnished you.

The object of your work will be to explore the coast of Greenland near Cape Britannia. Should you
be fortunate enough to pass beyond that point you will proceed in such direction as you think will best
carry out the object of this expedition — the extension of knowledge regarding lands in the polar circle.

At your farthest, whether by land or sea, at least one day will be spent in determining accurately your
position, in ascertaining the thickness of the ice, the dejith and teMi[)erature of the water, and such other
observations .is arc jiracticable. It is particularly to be desired that the period and character of the tides
be noted, if any way possible. From the farthest land, specimens of th:j various rocks, vegetation, &c.,
should be obtained. During any day spent in rest similar observations and collections should be made. A
careful watch should be kept for drift-wood, and if any fragments be seen that could have possibly formed
part of a ship, they are to be brought to this station, unless of too great size, when such piece as is best calcu-
lated for identification will be selected. It is possible that in such manner some clue to the yeannette may
be obtained.

While it is desirable that Lieutenant Beaumont's cairns be visited, you are to make no considerable
detour for such purpose. Map and data showing his route and work are already in your possession. In
case such cairns are visited the usual instructions will be followed.

In establishing your farthest cairn you should add to the customary record as full and concise an
account of your journey and, if possible, a skeleton map of your route and discoveries, if any. Depots
should be carefully noted and secured; each member of the party should be shown the exact location, and
attention invited to neighboring landmarks.

Your attention is invited to the danger of pursuing your journey beyond such point as your provisions
are half consumed, and to remaining or venturing to any distance from the main land after lanes of water
have once shown themselves.

Instructions to any returning party must be in writing, to avoid any possible error, and their tenor and
importance should be fully understood by the non-commissioned officer to whom given.

The date of your departure from this station should not be later than April 4.

Wishing you the fullest success, and, above all, desiring the safe return of your party,
I am, sir, respectfully yours,

A. W. Greelv,
Pint Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Expedition.

Second Lieut. J. B. Lockwood,

Twenty-third Infantry, A. S. O.

Appendix No. 52. — Supplementary instructions for exploration 0/ north coast of Greenland.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, March 22, 1882.

Sir : I have the honor to herewith transmit, for your information, list of stores cached north of depot A,
all of which are at your disposal for the trip toward Cape Britannia. You can rely on depot B being replen-
ished during your absence. I also inclose memorandum fixing sledge ration. The proportion of pemmican
and mixed meats may be changed by you until such time as the first supporting party leaves you, after
which it is deemed necessary, in the interest of the men's health, that it should be carefully adhered to :

18 ounces pemmican (every other day); 18 ounces bacon, (once in 10 days) ; 22 ounces raw beef (one
day in six); 18 ounces corned beef (one day in twelve); 2j ounces preserved meat (one day in ten); 18

III?

1; iU

184

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

ounces sausage (one day in twenty); u ounces hard bread, a ounces chocolate (one day in three); "^
ounce tea (2 days in three); 2 ounces sugar, 1 ounce cranberries, 4 ounces dried beans, i ounce desiccated
potatoes, I ounce lime-juice (on days when hme-juice pemmican is not eaten); ^ ounce salt; % ounce
pepper; yi ounce onion powder; 5 and 4 ounces (5 ounces to include April 30; after that date, 4 ounces)
fuel alcohol.

I am, sir, respectfully yours,

A. W. Greei.y,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry^ A, S. O- and Asssitant,

Commanding Expedition.

Second Lieut. J. B. Lockwood,

Twenty-third Infantry, A. S. 0.

1 ■'

" > t

«#

REPORTS ON EXPLORATION OF NORTH COAST OP (IREENLANI).

Appendix No. 53.

Lieutenant fMckwood^s letter of transmittaL

Fort Conger, Grinnf.ix Land, yuly 31, 1882.

Sir : I have the honor to submit sledge journal of my late expedition on the north coast of Greenland
and a chart of same, showing route, &c. To this I have added an abstract, and appended various data
necessary to make the record more complete.

The journal contains many details, which make it voluminous, and which are, perhaps, superfluoc.s. I
inserted them mainly because they exist in the original. I regret that, notwithstanding its size, the journal,
and the map also, are incomplete in many respects. This must be ascribed mainly to the Joss of my com-
pass, the continuous bad weather, &c.

The men did well, and, on the straits particularly, endured many severe trials. It is easier to state than
to appreciate what it is to drag a Hudson Bay sledge, with the bottom all splintered and broken, as ours
soon became; the friction is enormous. Sergeant Brainard, both when commanding the supporting party,
and afterwards while serving as one of the advance party, showed on all occasions such good judgment,
energy, willingness, and cheerfulness to promote the object of the expedition that I cannot mention him too
highly. Of Sergeants Linn, Ralston, Jewell, and Elison, Corporal Salor, and Private Frederick, who com-
posed the supporting party, after leaving the Boat Camp, it is difficult to speak individually. I believe
that each one did his best, and certainly they all showed a spirit of determination and alacrity, under
difficulties, which, despite the breaking down of the sledges, got a large amount of rations to Cape Bryant,
and would have enabled the dogsledge to start from a more distant base had their desire to go farther been
the only requisite, though at this time Sergeant Linn was suffering from snow-blindness and Private Frederick
from a sprained knee. Sergeant Jewell, whenever he camped with me, voluntarily took on himself the whole
labor of cooking, and also assisted Christiansen and myself in pitching the tent, &c., which, after a long
march at the drag-rope, must have been very severe. Sergeants I,inn, Ralston, and Elison elected to
remain at the Boat Camp, and there endured twenty-five days, awaiting my return, which, in such u place,
was worse, in many respects, than actual traveling. Of Privates Connell, Henry, Biederbick, and Whisler, I
can only say that they did very well as far as they went, and were unfortunate in being able to go no farther.
Private Connell showed great determination in going on aftek he had become actually disabled.

Frederick Christiansen, the Eskimo, I mention last, but he should be among the first. He did his
work well, and performed everything required of him with alacrity and the stoicism of a philosopher. He
proved himself very reliable.

I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

. J. B. LOCKWOOL),

Second Lieutenant, Twenty-third Infantry, A. S. O.

Lieut. A. W. Greely,

Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant, Commanding,

186

I!'

186

THK LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Lieutenant I^Kkxvood'' s abstract of sledge journey on the north coast of Greenland^ with

general remarks on the same.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land.

The expedition consisted of thirteen men, including myself and the driver of the dog sledge (Frederick,
Eskimo), with one dog-sledge and four Hudson Bay sledges. It was originally contemplated that two of
the small sledges and five of the men, with myself, should constitute an advance or main party, the others
forming two sui)porting parties, but, owing to circumstances, this arrangement was never carried out. The
route selected was via Cape Beechey and a point near the Gap opposite to Cape Sumner and thence along
shore, about i y^ miles, to the Polaiis Boat Camp, which was to be made a depot or base of supplies, and all
rations collected there before proceeding farther. Nearly all the necessary rations had previously been
accumulated at the two depots this side of Cape Beechey, at the Gap opposite, and on the ice of the straits
intermediate. Beyond the Boat Camp the expedition was to cross Newman Bay and the Brevoort
Peninsula, and, arriving at the northern coast, follow it along to Cape Bryant, whence the route to Cape
Britannia and beyond, was left to circumstances.

Sergeant Brainard, with nine of the party and the four small sledges, left the station on the evening of
April 3. I followed on the evening following with the di(g-team and Sergeant Jewell. As a general rule,
we traveled by night and rested during the day. In crossing the straits (Robeson Channel] two of the men
broke down and had to be sent back. We encountered a severe storm but were not much delayed thereby.
Sergeant Brainard and party reaching the Boat Camp, 50 miles from the station, on the loth, and I, with the
dog-sledge, on the 8th. The time from now to the 16th was occupied in accumulating here the rations at the
Gap and on the straits [Robeson Channel]. Shortly after arriving two more of the men broke down and had
to be sent back. We were prevented from doing anything for a day or two by a continuation of the storm
referred to. ATter this a runner of the dog-sledge being broken and the other sledges almost worn out, I
returned with dog-team to u.^ station for new runners, iVc, leaving on the 13th and getting back on the isth.
On the evening of the 16th we left the Polaris Boat Camp with the following organization and equipment.

I. One dog-sledge, Antoiiiettr, and team of eight dogs, Christiansen and myself. " Constant weights,"
253 pounds (including weight of sledge), with load of five sacks of dog penimican ; total, 753 pounds.

II. One large sledge called the Nares (improvised at Boat Camp from old sledge-runners repaired
and pieces of plank), drawn by Sergeants Brainard, Ralston, and Corporal Salor; estimated amount dragged
by each, 217 pounds.

III. One Hudson Bay sledge, //<?//, drawn by Sergeant Jewell and Private Frederick; ijo pounds
dragged by eac h.

IV. One Hudson Bay sledge, Hayes, drawn hy Sergeants Linn and Elison ; amount hauled by each,
150 pounds.

The other two Hudson Bay sledges, the Beaumout and Kane, were abandoned as unserviceable. Thc-
dog-sledge was now to be the advance sledge and the others to act in its support. The rations taken (all,
at the start, on the man-sledges) were estimated at 300, and weighed about 900 pounds.

The route taken across the Brevoort Peninsula was up a narrow ravine, leading us in a northeast
direction, then north across a "divide" or plateau, and thence through another ravine running northwest,
which brought us out at Repulse Harbor, a litde east of which, on the coast, we all camped together, April
22. Previous to this I generally camped independent of the supporting party, which was under Sergeant
Brainard. Afterwards, till Cape Bryant was reached, we camped together. From Repulse Harbor to this cape
we followed the coast line, only leaving it to travel on the floe for a few miles opposite the Black Horn Clifts.
From the Boat Camp to Stanton Gorge the supporting party found it necessary to "double up" {I.e.,
divide the sledge loads and draw forward half at a time), the entire distance. I found it necessary all the
way to Cape Bryant, sometimes going five times over the same road. Near Repulse Harbor a runner of
the dog-sledge broke, and having to take one of the two belonging to the Nares, it v.as necessary to abandon
that sledge, which was done after getting along with a patched runner as far as Drift Point. At Stanton
Gorge I found the forty rations of Lieutenant Beaumont, and took them on as far as Cape Bryant, which we
reached April 27. It is about 75 miles from the Boat Camp by the route traveled; the dog-sledge made
eight intermediate camps, and the supporting party ten.

At Cape Bryant a careful inspection of the two remaining man-sledges satisfied me that they could
proceed no farther. However, one was mended suflicieitly to return. Having left in cache, en roitte^ but
four days' rations, a considerable quantity still remained surplus. Of these I took twenty-Ave days, or

v^i

70-

a a

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r.,.- ■'■""«, v^-*««T V -'^"

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le

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It

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IKLIN HAY EXPEDITION

— 1881-84.

Commanded by
It. A. W. Grcely, U. S. A.

IT OF COAST OP

>r«

.r";

GREENLAND

rt by Lt. J. B. Loekwood, U. S. Arirnj,
ley, ,1/tril ,1(1 to Jiuw Isf. ISSJ.
ifc cf firi'livii niirij JDitrwy in Mnrch.
May is itih'ii from Lt. Beaumont's Map.
/

■ -- Outward track.

— Bcturn.

I'relimiiuiry journey.

lOUNDINQS IN FATHOMS.
HEIGHTS IN FEET.

-fci-i-f*''

«V.\T

P^i^'^d.o^^-

j^i:y^^^

k:*, _

"•Sftinr iN'-iy

i!^\X^i^'

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Is.

C.Tl|iHin.iiin^»L

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^T^ ■-• t":M"y,---v-<S-^ •'■♦xK^^^i". ..^^^^_a--^-^^^-

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VJm »n. iy JFyrti J). OtrcTV.

as"

ill

i i

I, '

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

187

severtty-five rations, for my further advance, and left most of the remainder in a cairn near by. The equip-
ment of the dog-sledge now consisted of, radons, 230 pounds; dog-food, 300 pounds; "constant weights,"
176 pounds, which, with weight of sledge, 80 pounds, made 786 pounds, or 98^ pounds per dog.

On the afternoon of April 29 Sergeant Linn, with the supporting party, started on return, and shortly
afterwards, with Sergeants Brainard, Frederick, and the dog-team, I started forward. The first journey 1
traveled towards Cape May, but after that proceeded as direct as possible for Cape Britannia, over the ice
of the Polar Sea. Cape Britannia was reached May 5, after six journeys, the last a very short one. The first
day's (or rather night's) journey was towards Cape May, but after that I proceeded as direct as possible towards
Cape Britannia, passing the former cape about five miles from shore. It was on'y the first day or night that
we got along without "doubling up," excepting a very few miles. En route when opposite and when on a
line with Beaumont Island and Cape May, we crossed a remarkable tide-crack (?) and let down the deep-sea
lead 840 feet [256'"] without finding bottom. In drawing it up the line parted and the lead, &c., was lost.

From the top of the mountain, 2,050 feet [625"'], which forms Cape Britannia, I got a good view all
around. Towards the northeast lay a succession of headlands and inlets as far as I could see — some 15 or
20 miles — and this was the character of the coast beyond as far as I got. The tide-crack extended from
Beaumont Island from one cape to another the whole distance. I estimate Cape Britannia as 60 miles
from Cape Bryant. We left Britannia after only the usual delay in camp and proceeded, without any more
doubling up, in a general northeast direction till May 13, when, the rations being exhausted, I reached my
farthest at the sixth camp 95 miles beyond Cape Britannia. En route we remained sixty-two hours at
Shoe [Mary Murray] Island, detained by a storm.

From the top of the height [Lockwood Island], just back of the headland [Cape Christiansen] (the
farthest reached), I could see to the northeast two more ])rojecting points [Capes Kane and Washington], with
intervening fiords [Conger Inlet and Hunt Fiord], the farthest [Cape Washington] perhaps 15 miles distant.
No land could be seen to the north — nothing but the vast expanse of the Polar Sea. To the south and east
lay a maze of snow-covered mountain peaks.

After a delay till the isth [May, 1882] in taking observations, collecting specimens of rocks and
vegetation, &c., we started back. Cape Britannia was reached (May 20) in five marches and Cape Bryant
(May 24) in four more, without particular event. At the latter place I attempted to get some observations
on the tide, but without success. On reaching Repulse Harbor I continued along the coast till I reached
the Gap Valley of the English by which I crossed the Brevoort Peninsula and reached the Polaris Boat
Camp on the 29th instant, the fourth camp from Cape Bryant on return. Here Sergeants Linn, Ralston and
Elison were awaiting my return, having arrived on the 5th May. The others, by my direction, had returned
to Fort Conger after a day's rest. The party which remained had (while asleep) been visited by two bears
and experienced several storms, but otherwise the time had been uneventful. We started the same day for
the station, which we readied (June i) in three marches.

The weather after leaving the station was often stormy and bad until about the middle of the month;
during this time the coldest was experienced (April 6) — 48.8 [— 44.9° C.]. After leaving the Polaris Boat
Camp it was alternately good and bad until Cape Stanton was reached, after which until beyond Cape
Britannia we had fine weather. But then it commenced to blow and snow, and so continued, with few
exceptions, until Britannia was reached on return. Thence to Bryant it was mild and foggy, and thence to
Boat Camp generally calm and clear. In crossing the straits [Robeson Channel] again it v : s very bad.

1882.

Thermometer

Numl)cr

of obser-

Mean temj

vations.

Fahr.

~'S-77

- 7-36

1- 9-9'

-I-I2.34

I'ort Conger to Boat Camp, April 3 to 16

Hoat Camp to Cape Bryant, Ajiril 16 to 29

Cape ISryant to Cajie Britannia, April 29 to May 5
Cape Britannia to Farthest, May 5 to 15.

These means are given for what they are worth. The observations were taken every day but at very
irregular hours, most of them when in cam[). No observations w<'re taken on return, the thermometer being
left in cairn at Farthest and the barometer having been broken.

Barometer.

Numlier

ature.

of obser-
vations.

Mean height.

Infltts.

Htm. 1

-26.6

29. 74

755- 38 1

21. 9

29. 09

73«- S7 !

12.3

29- 43

747- 5 « i

-10. 9

29-39

746. 49

- -

•ii

I'lii

!l!

188

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

The coast line near the Boat Camp, both on the straits and the shores of Newman Bay, consist* of a
series of high, precipitous chfTs. Between Cape Sumner and Boat Camp was a steep snow-slope which I found
necessary to follow on account of the very rough ice outside. On the north side of the bay the shore slopes
at a varying angle to the plateau or water-shed above, the highest elevation of which is much nearer the
bay than it is to the coast to the north, thus making the streams on the north side much longer than those
on the south. On the seacoast a line of cliffs extends fro'.. Gap Valley to Repulse Harbor, but beyond
they lie well back from the coast or rather merge into a range of hills, leaving a low, sloping shore which
extends to the snow-slopes near Drift Point and the Black Horn Cliffs beyond. From the last-named cliffs
the coast line extends along the base of a series of hills and mountains which at Frankfield Bay again run
off inland and leave, thence to Cape Bryant, another 'ow, shelving shore. Beyond Cape Bryant to Cape
Britannia and beyond, as far as I traveled, the coast line, if such it may be termed, presents a great similarity
of appearance, a series of high, rocky, and precipitous promontories, probably the north projections pf
islands in many cases with intervening inlets. It was not till near my farthest that I met any shore lying in
the general direction of the line of travel, our route almost invariably being from one point to another across
the openings of these inlets. It was very seldom that I could say whether these inlets were bays or chan-
nels connecting with larger bodies of water to the south. There was no visible land at the heads of several
of them. They were very much like immense canals, and gave tlie whole coast the appearance of the
Greenland coast between Upernivik and Proven, and Disco. From the top of Cape Britannia I saw one
that extended off towards the east and seemed to make islands of all tlie projecting promontories to its
north.

There was every appearance of a fiord on the south side of Britannia, thus making that land an island;
this was noticeable from either side of Britannia. " Stephenson Island," also, is undoubtedly an island, and
the fiords on each side of my farthest [Lockwood Island] seeme<l to connect a few miles to the south, thus
making that land an island also. Owing to continual bad weather my view of the interior was mainly con-
fined to what I saw from the two elevations ascended ; and, owing to their comparative lowness, the maze
of mountain peaks with their universal covering of snow merging and overlapping one another made it very
difficult to distinguish the topography at all. The interior land seemed very high, and on this account the
farthest that I couhl see could not have been very many miles removed. I could see [from Britannia and
Lock woo. 1 Island) no glaciers that I recognized as such, though from the floe while traveling I saw a very
large one, and one or two quite small. From my farthest I saw mountains to the east, perhaps twenty or
thirty miles distant, and a high, mountainous country doubtless exists all along this coast for some distance
to the south, the shore lines of the fiords invariably being at the base of steep cliffs and mountains. No
land was ever seen to the north. There was a very noticeable abundance of snow everywhere.

The most singular phenomenon along this coast was the tide-crack, extending from headland to head-
land as far as I got. I could only understand it on the supposition that the outside polar pack had con-
stantly more or less motion. At North Cape [Cape Frederick] and bejoiid we heard alow, grinding sound,
as of moving ice, which tended to confirm that impression. This " crack " — that is, the space between the
solid floes on each side — was sometimes upwards of a hundred yards [91"'] wide, the intervening space being
composed of young ice and lanes and pools of water. It generally inclined in a curve to the south between the
different promontories, and its whole course was marked by a wall of hummocky ice, pressed up in the utmost
confusion, sometimes on one side, sometimes on both. At the several capes this pressure was especially
noticeable, and along short extents of coast line which lay parallel to the general direction of the crack.

As with one exception we traveled inside of the crack, little was seen of the main polar pack beyond,
except iit long intervals. It seemed a vast expanse of floes, crossed at many angles with many ridges of hum-
mocks, with masses of rubble-ice here and there. When we crossed the crack we traveled on ice but lately
formed apparently, and made good progress, except when masses of rubble-ice were encountered; but outside,
whenever noticed, the main pack looked very rough. Traveling over it would no doubt be slow and difticult.

To the south of the crack, from shore to shore and up the fiords, as far as could be seen, the ice
was covered with a smooth, level exoanse of snow, seldom broken by even a solitary hummock. In the
neighborhood of the tide-crack, however, the surface was often more or less undulating, but still presented
the appearance of great age, excepting across some of the inlets beyond Distant Cape, where we trav-
eled over more or less blue-top floes. At North Cape [Frederick], extending out some distance from
shore, was a good deal of smooth, level ice, with very little or no snow on it — last year's ice. This was
also met with just beyond Hummock Cape and near the coast west of Shoe [Mary Murray] Island. My

Tlic I.aily I'ranklin Hay Kxpedition, \'iil. I.

Plate

CM'F. Hkitannia.

TF^'^i^mmrnmrn'^mm:

\li IMKIA l.M.l.r lKi)M M-.Ak ("aI'K liKIIANMA.

[\;irc.s I.aiul to left and Steplienson IsUui'l to rij;lit.]

liKAlMciM Nl.AMl IKOM NIAK CaI'K BKHANNIA.

STKI'UKNSDN 1^1. ami IKOM C'aIK liKII\NMA.

liKAUMONT Island i hum Cai'f. liiuiANNiA.

The l.ailv I'ranklin Hnv l'.x|iL'iMti.in. Vol. I.

Ki.isdN Island,

\ u.u l.iioMNc, iNio c'mii- Im.i r.

I ,.;

CaI'I. ALIXAMirU Ra.m^w.
[l-'roiM |cui-ll Iiilut. lieaiin^ KV. ]

Plate II.

I '

SlU)K [Mary Mi'Rray] Island.

l'"ARTiii;sr ToiNT iiivoND [tu tiil Kast] Sikh: [Mauy Mtruav] Islanu,

jij M

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

189

course when not on the ice of the inlets was on the steep snow-slopes and ice-foot rouml the capes. These
"ice-foots" were almost always covered with snow, more or less deep, lietween Dome Cape [Cape Wij-
kanderj and Shoe [Mary Murray] Island, however, were often many hundred yards of clear ice between the
foot of the clitTs and the wall of hummocky ice lining the coast. The reason of this difference was not ap-
parent. The ice-foot of the Grinnell shore l)elow Cape Heechey, which remained clear late in the fall, and
was so found early in the s])ring, had considerable snow on it in April. The snow on these fiords was quite
frequently soft and deep, on some particularly so. It was of this character from Cape Uryant nearly to
Britannia, and generally so beyond as far as Distant Cape. Afterwards, till I had nearly reached my
farthest, it was moderately firm, but in the fiord beyond Hummock Cape it was extremely soft and deep.
It was thus on almost all the snow-slopes.

Mv tidal observations at Cape Bryant were not successful, but a deflection of the line to the east, very
frequently noticed during the twelve hours of my observations, seemed to indicate a current (perhaps a tide)
in that direction. No such deflection was noticed at the crack south of Beaumont Island, but this crack
was hardly more than two fcet [.6"'J wide at this i)articular point. On the shores of Cape Britannia Island,
and the whole distance beyond, the appearance of the ice seemed to indicate a very small vertical motion
(rise and fall) of the tide. The chasm between the fast ice on shore and the floating ice adjoining and the
debris formed by the two edges working pgainst each other, so noticeable in the straits [Robeson Channel],
was generally entirely wanting. Sometimes we passed from the floe to the ice-foot or snow-slope without
any change whatever of the surface ; sometimes a few small cracks were seen, as though the ice worked on
a hinge, as it were. A bear track at Black Cape, and a great many fox, hare, and lemming tracks were
noticed. Traces of musk-ox were found at Cape Britannia, anci a ptarmigan shot. Beyond this the only
birds or animals seen or obtained were a hare and some ptarmigan at Rabbit Point [Cape BenetJ, a lemming
at Shoe [Mary Murray] Island, and another just beyond, and some snow-birds at the Farthest [Lockwood
Island].

The only drilt-wood found was near Repulse Harbor. But little vegetation was seen, on account oi
the snow, &c. The rocks were (piite the same in general appearance and formation as what is observed in
the neighborhood of the station. The cliff forming the farthest headland [Cape Christiansen] reached con-
sisted of a very friable slate, of several colors or shades, and also what I took for " indurated clay," a very
pretty rock, of various shades of brown, red, and yellow. Specimens of the rocks and vegetation from here
[Lockwood Island] and elsewhere have been submitted.

The health of the party remained good. A few cases of frost-bite and snow-blindness (not serious)
were the only exceptions after leaving the Boat Camp.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

J. B. Lockwood,
Second Lieutenant, Twenty-third liifantty, A. S, O.

Lieutenant Lockwood'' s Journal of Sledge Expedition on north coast of Greenland {April ^ to

June /, 1882).

First march, Station to Snow House, Depot B.

April 4. — At 8.45 p. m. left Fort Conger with Sergeant Jewell, Christiansen (Eskimo), dog-sledge
Antoinette, and eight dogs, equipped, and load weighing about £00 pounds. At 10.13 P- ro- reached depot
A ; took on two sacks of dog pemmican ; three other sacks added to load at a cache about one-half mile west.
Took also from depot eight cans corned beef and oneof beans, making quite a heavy load, which I found it
necessary to transfer by hand over a crack on reaching St. Patrick Bay.

April 5. — At 2.40 a. m. reached snow house (depot B), where I found Sergeant Brainard and the main
party, also Sergeant Rice and Jens (the Eskimo), on their way to rejoin Doctor Pavy. Just before reaching
there, I saw on the south side of the first bay or indentation of the coast to the south, seated on a floe-berg,
what I took for an eagle or owl — a large, white bird ; it flew away to the south before we could get within
range. At depot B all were asleep. They filled up the snow house and snow-burrow; so Sergeant Jewell
and I slept in the store tent and C;hristiansen in the tunnel or entrance to snow-house.

Time en route, 5 hours 55 minutes; time actually traveling forward the first time, all delays deducted,
5 hours 30 minutes; distance traveled, 18 miles; distance , made good, i8 miles.

190

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Second march, Snow-housk to Tent on Straits [Roheson ChanneiJ.

Some hours before sMrtinn were ot(ni|)ic(l in cooking breakfast on the little stove for the whole party
and in getting ready rations, iVe. (enumerated elsewhere), which were added to load from this place — the
loads of the several sledges being rearranged before starting. At 8.50 p. m. Sergeant Jewell, Christiansen, and
1 got off. Sergeant Itrainard, with the Hudson Hay sledges, left about ten minutes earlier. The dog-sledge,
Antoimitf, very heavily loaded ; weight dragged, about 800 pounds. Kach man with the Hudson Hay sledges
dragged about 1 16 pounds. The ice-foot had more or less snow on it, and hence the traveling along here not
so good as heretofore. I overtook the other sledges soon after starting and |)as.sed ahead. At 10.52 p. m.
reached Cape Hcechey; the other sledges some distanie back. Here it was necessary to double up
(take in two loads) through the rubble-ice extending out about one-<iuarter mile from shore. After this we
traveled over old tloe-ice, /. c, ice with an undulating surface covered with deep snow.

April (t. — At 2.25 a. m. arrived at tent on Robeson Channel (about 4^ miles from shore). Delayed a
few minutes ancl then went back part of the w.iy to shore and assisted the last of the Hudson Bay sledges to
the tent, having decided to camp there. This occupied a little more than an hour; it was rendered necessary
by Whisler's break; g down and Connell and Hierderbick being unable to drag the sledge without help. It
was very cold on rtachin^g c.imp, the thermometer registering 45° below zero [—42.8° C.|. Sergeant Jewell,
Christiansen, and I took possession ol the wall tent already pitched here. The others pitched their own tents
two in number.

Time en route (dog-sledge), 6 hours and 45 minutes ; actual time traveling forward, less delays, 5
hours; distance traveled, 13 miles; distance made good, 9^ miles.

Third march. Tent on Straits to Floe southwest of the Gap.

While Sergeant Jewell was trying to cook breakfast on our little 2-man lamp I went to the tents of the
others. I found that Private Connell had his foot badly frost-bitten on the last inarch and that Private
Hetiry was suffering from rheumatism; the latter thought he would have to be hauled back if he went any
farther, so I directed him to return to the station, and he left shortly before the others proceeded forward.
Private Connell thought he was able to go on — was willing and anxious to try, at any rate.

At 10.10 p. m. started with dog-sledge, about i^ hours after the others ; this was occasioned by the
lamp being unable to bring the water to a boil. It was very cold at this camp, the minimum reaching —47.50
[ — 44.2° C.J. About 1^ miles from camp I overtook Private Frederick dragging a sledge alone, and a
little farther on, the others, who had halted for a rest. Connell had fallen out of the drag-rope, he being
hardly able to get along at all. He reluctantly agreed to going back. I detached Sergeant Jewell from
service with the dog-sledge, and from here on he worked with the others. Leaving the main party to proceed
I left my load and took Private Connell to Cape Heechey, going along myself as far as the tent on the
straits, where I awaited the return of the sledge. Connell thought he could get by himself from Cape
Beechey. On the dog-sledge rejoining nie 1 proceeded after the others, and picking up the load where left,
continued on. Progress with such a load, however, involved so many delays and so much work, on account,
of the heavy snow, that some time after this I threw off about half.

April 7. — At 5.30 a. m. arrived at a spot just southwest of the Gap, where I found the main party
already in camp. Pitched tent, &c., while Christiansen went back for the rest of the load. He returned in
the course of an hour. We got supper in the 6-man tent.

Advanced 8 miles; corresponding time, about 5 hours; total traveled, 24 miles; corresponding time, 8
hours and 30 minutes. See note to tabulated statement appended.

Fourth march. Floe southwest of Gap to \rolaris\ Boat Camp, nearly.

At 8.45 p. m. left camp w ith dog-sledge and half-load, the main party preparing to move. Traveled for
some time over level floes crossed by ranges of hummocky ice — taking a direction for Cape Sumner, but after
some hours' traveling, a storm of wind and snow, which had set in some time before, made everything so
obscure that I suddenly found the sledge "stalled" in a mass of rubble-icc and deep snow. It blew a gale
from the southwest. After several ineffectual efforts things looked so discouraging that I began to think of
taking refuge in a snow-burrow — unable to pick out a route on account of the driving snow. However,
some time after this I succeeded in finding a floe and getting the sledge to it, with Christiansen's willing aid.

THE LADY FRANKLIN DAY EXPEDITION.

191

April?!, — At 2.10 .1. tn. iirrivcil at Cape Sumner, and, getting through tlic rougli ico near shore, gained
the snow-slo|)i' l)etween the foot of the cliffs and the hne of iniiuense bergs ami huninicx ks wiiith line the
coast. Here, instead of the protection I had anticipated from the Muffs, we eniountereil a series of blasts
and wliirlwinds of snow, disagreeable in tlie extreme, and making it difficult to keep the sledge from sliding
sideways into the pits, Inrmed by the snow, adjoining every mass of ice.

At 3.50 a. m. rea( hcd an immense snow-drift, aliout one-half mile from Boat Camp, which extends at a
stce|) angle from the luj) to the bottom of the ( liff; it was not an easy place to pass. Christiansen and I left
sledge and went ahead to rcconnoiter. We could hardly keep our feet. We returned, and I thought it best to
camp here; so in the course of two hours we had dug a small hole in the snowbank and crawled inside,
and, having got everything necessary in, stopped up the entrance. 8.10 a. m.,su])per finished. (^)uite dark in
here, having no candles. We had no light excejjt from some cracks which closed and opened continuously,
through some unknown agency, occasionally new cracks forming. This movement was acconipanied by a
noise which was rather alarming until I found that our abode did not decrease in size thereby.

Advanced \2]A miles; time, less delays, 6 hours; traveled, 12^ miles; time, including delays, 7
hours and 5 minutes.

ARKIVKO Al \ri>lans\ ItOAT CA.MI'.

April ty — How long, exactly, we remained at this place I don't know; I was glad to leave even before
the storm had ceased. 'J'he entrance had become entirely snowed up. Cutting our way out, vv; found it
still snowing anil blowing, but not so hard. The dogs were almost concealed from view by the snow which
had drifted op. them.

At about I p. m. arrived at Boat Cam]), and, it seeming im])ossible for a tent long to stand, we set to
work and dug another snow-burrow at the conjunction of the coast-line of cliffs and the ravine. It was
imi)racticable to do anything more.

.\t 8.10 p. m. left snow-burrow to proceeil down the straits [Robeson Channel] for remainder of load,
and also to see what had become of the main party, for whom I began to feel some uneasiness. A cold
wind was blowing from the southwest.

At n.io p. m. met the main [larty en route to Boat Camp; all well. They hail encountered so much
difficulty in their march, shortly after my departure, Uiat they had taken refuge behintl a large tloe-berg on
the straits.

April 10. — At 12. 10 a. m. reached remainder of load (400 pounds jiemmican, dog-food), anil started
back; at 9.10a. m. arrived again at Boat Camp, where I found the main party at sup|)er. . Their two tents
were [titched at the foot of the snow-drift, but the violent gusts of wind threatened every few minutes to
blow them down. The wind here blows in sudden gusts, first from one direction, then from another, swee[)-
ing the stony ground completely bare, except at the snow-drift at the foot of the cliffs.

Traveled 26 miles; time, 13 hours.

April II. — At 1.10 a. m. got up, to find ourselves snowed in and the air so close that a match was
lighted with difficulty. After getting something to eat we cut a hole through the top or roof of our abode, and
got out ; found the two tents had disappeared, and their inmates buried in two small snow-burrows. Spent
the greater i)art of the forenoon in closing uj) the top of my abode, enlarging it, and constructing a tunnel.

At I p. m. went to bed again, the weather preventing us from doing anything else.

At 9 p. m. got up. Found that the main party had had an extremely uncomfortable rest, and were all
suffering from bad air, i"v:c., owing to the drifting snow. I'rivate Bierderbick was suffering from continence
of urine, and Whisler from a pain in the lungs attended with the spitting of blood. I thought it best to
send them back, and they started about midnight direct for Cape Beechey.

\Polaris\ boat camp to iiai', ktc, and hack.

At 1 1.55 p. m. Sergeant Brainard, and those remaining, started, with three Hudson Hay sledges, for the
Gap, to help bring up rations at that place.

April 12. — At 2 a. m. I left with Christiansen and dog-team for same place ami purpose. The traveling
between Cape Sumner and the (lap, about 7 miles below, is the best met with on the straits. A smooth, level
floe of clear ice extends all along except at a place about i>4 miles below the cape, where it is interrupted
by several hundred yards of rough rubble-ice, difficult to get through. This route was not fully discovered

192

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

till this occasion. I overtook the main party about two miles from the Gap at 4. 1 o a. m., about ; their sledges
had become much split and worn in the rough ice of the straits, and they found it fatiguing even pulling
them empty. I put their sledges on the dog-sledge .mil went on in advance.

At 4.45 a. m. reached the Gap. Found the little Knglish boat on the ice-foot and very badly broken
up, as reported. Took the boat to land and hung her on the bowlder which marks the jilace where the
provisions were left. A good meal was tlien cooked for every one in the snow-burrow adjoining, the lamps
having been brought along for this purpose. In the mean time I sent Sergeant Jewell with dog-team,
accompanied by Christiansen, of course, out on the straits [Robeson Channel] to get a few articles that had
been left by the former about a mile .'^'m shore. At 7.41; a. m., leaving the rest to take to Moat Camp all they
could haul, enumerated elsewhere, I started with dog-icam for cache made by Sergeant Jewell (about 325
pounds) in March, 1882, five miles or more from shore, towards Cape hiechey.

At 9.32 a. m. reached cache. At 12 noon got back again to the (iap, and was delayed thirty minutes in
adding to load everything that had been left. Found it an enormous load, and after |)roceeding, on return
to Boat Camp, about a mile, 1 dropped off liie Greenland bag and a large box of canned meats, &c.

At 6.10 J), m. reached Boat Canij); dogs very much exhausted. Found that the others had got b^ck
about I '4 hours before me.

At 10.10 p. m. went to bed. The lamj) is very small, and being without the funnel arrangement the
meat and tea have to be -'■'f^ki'd sejjarately ; hence, the long time occupied on this occasion, .is well as before
and afterwards, until I used one of tlie larger lamps.

Traveled 25 miles; time, 16 hours and 10 minutes.

April 13. — .At 8.30 a. m., about, was up and out. Jewell slept in the snow-burrow with Christiansen and
myself last night and ate with us, turning over again to Christiansen his single dog-skin bag, and occupying
the two-man buffalo- bag with na-. This l:e continued to do thereafter, whenever we camped together, till C'ape
Bryant was reached. I found that the Hudson Bay sledges were very much worn and split; one almost
entirely useless and another almost as bad. One runner of the dog-sledge became split across the horn
some days ])revious, .ind, though lately mended by Sergeant Klison, as well as possible, I regarded it best,
everything considered, to return to station for a new runner, iVc. The forenoon was occupiijd in mending
sledges, digging out whale-boat* (wiiich was embanked in snow) and placing her on her keel, j)roperly secured
with stoiu's. I left directions to iiave all extra rations pKaced therein and the articles left on the ice near
the boat to be brought uj). I'",verythintj being prepared .Sergeant Brainard was .als-, directed to leave with
party, on the i6th, for Gap Valljy, if I were not b.ack t)n the 'Sth.

I "M

IIOAT CAMl" TO FORT CONdEK

At 1 2.25 p. m. (13th) Started for station with Christiansen and dog-tcain ; sledge empty, excepting an ax
and spade on it. We were half an liour in reaching Cape Sumner, whence I followed first- made trarks,
which took me well out from shore. At 4.50 p. m. teiiched cross-roads, one fork running to Gap, the other
to Cape Sumner. From here to station and back Christiansen and I took turns in riding. The tlogs kept up
a trot all the way. \X. 5.45 p. m. reached tent on straits. At 6.35 p. m. reached Cape Beechey. At 7.50
p. m. reached snow housv, (depot B). Cooked something to cat here and g.ave the dogs a rest ; was afraid
of overworking t'lem. Ai 1 1.55 p. m. left snow house for station.

April \\. — .\t 2.03 a. m. reached dei)ot A. \\. 4.15 a. m. reached Fort Conger. Weather beautiful
during the journey; some wind on straits, as usual. At station I got new slats for sledge and a pair of
runners off another 'ledge, retaining the old ones, however, i'he dogs were well fed on walrus meat.

i raveletl 48 miles.

HKTIJRN FROM KORT CON(iK.R lO 11()»T CAMl'.

At 9.55 p. m. left Station ; at Dutch Island in twenty minutes, following the ice-foot newly formed
close along shore.

Aprtl 15. — At 12.12 a. m. reached depot A; thermometer there,t 116 [ — 13.2° Fahr.; —25.1° C.]. At
2.30 a. m. arrived at depot I!. Cooked a meal for ourselves ami fed the dogs with meat brought from the
station. Made an attempt to discover lo aiiof, of the Hudson Bay sledge '.^uried in the drift here, both by
digging from the tunnel laterally and also from the .surface of the snow, bi'.t without success. We were too

* 'I'liis WHS a wlialc-lwttt iibniiduncd anil cac'icil by II. C. Cliestcr, u' \\\z IVuitis, in July, 1872. This boat gave the name
ti) llic camp. A. W. (I.

t Vale tliermonictcr, arbitrary scale.

THK LADY FHANKLIN HAY KXPKDITION.

193

tired to attempt much. Cliristiani-fn jjot a slinrl nap; I rcmainal up. At 8.45 a. m., liaving given tlic dogs
a good rest, wc left depot, taking a few arti( les of food. Having already se' 'il articles on tlir sledge we
now had a little load, a very small one. At 1.55 p m. reached smooth lloe just below the (;a[), and in
half all hour got through a mass of ruhlile-ice with the usual amount of work and annoyance and were
opposite da]). At 5.30 p. m. arrived at Hoat ('amp. Weather during the day very line indeed.

'I'ravelcd 48 miles.

During the remainder of this day (the 15th), and that following, two of the Hudson liay sledges were
made serviceable by means of tin which 1 had brought over for the pur|)ose, and other means at hand.
The sledges were so worn and broken that freiiuent relashings of their loads had become necessary, and the
friction was great even on smooth, hard snow. It was thought best to ..bandon two of the Hudson Hay
sledges (they seeming almost beyond repair), a. id to substitute a sledge made from the old ilog-sledgc run-
ners, with cross-slats contributed partly from the dog-sledge but mostly improvised from old pieces of plank.

The various ac :idents to men and sledges had rendered a new organization necessary from that origi-
nally contemplated, so that we left the IJoat Camp (the depot of supplies), with sledges and eciuipment as
follt)ws :

I. One iUi{;-slc(l(;e, .■In/oinft/f, haiilcd liy team of citjlit iloys, acconi|)anic<! by Christiansen (Kskinio) ami myself, with loail
and «rei);hts as follows :

Pountls.

Three clothing bags, almul 24

One " catch-all '' (stove, and cook's ba(j) 7'^

One sheltei lent and poles, 10 ll>^. ; one two-man

bnip, l}4 II" liji

Se.il thong, rope (logshoes, iVc 10

Kive sacks do[; pemmican 500

Total

742^4

I*()unf1ii.

One dog-sledge, .'/«/(»i'«<'//c So'i

One A tent, 20 lbs.; poles, 12 lbs,; ami pins,

2 ll>s -^ 34

One two-man sleeping-bag (Imfialo) 82,'4

One single sleeping bag (dog skin) 14

One ndiber blanket ._ 6>4

One " fnnnel " lamp (complete) 5^'-^

One ax, 6 14 lbs.; .shovel, S lbs.; s>'.onr-kr,ife, l}4

ll's- ti'X

One pistol, 3)^ lbs, ; sextant, &c., 6^ lbs. ; tele-
scope and compass, 4^.^ lbs 14

In .iddition to this there was generally on the dog-sledge two or three days' rations.

H. One large sledge, A'dirs, drawn by Sergeants lirainani and Kalslon and Corporal .Salor ; estimated amount drawn by
rach man, 217 |)<mnils (on starling).

III. (hie Hudson Hay .sledge, //,)//, drawn by Sergeant Jewell and Private Fred';rick ; ettimalcd amount dragged by each,
150 |H)Mnds.

IV. One Hudson Hay sledge, /Ayr.f, dragged by Sergeants I.inn and l'".Iison; estimated amount dragged by each man
150 |iounds.

The loads of the sledges tlrawn by the men comprised the following "constant" weights and rations:

Pounds.
One six man tent, 27 lbs.; poles, 15 lbs.; jiins, 3

ll>s -- - 45

Two three-man sleeping-bags (bulTalo).... 67

One rubber blanket 10'^

One funnel lamp (complete) 6'i

One ax, one spade, one snow-knife 13

Pounds.

Ove shotgun, >ne pistol 11

I'ivc pair snow shoes 17'i

Six clothing bags, about 30

Store-bag, cook's bag, and medicine, al)oul .. 25

Total 225,'^

About joo rations.

Pounds.

IVnimican (liu'e j'lice) lOy

Ilac<Mi 20

Hecf:

corned 28

Knglish 8,S

nuisk-ox (raw) f'S'j

Sausage ._ 28

llread , 225

Chocolate 12

Tea 6

Onion (lowdcr 2 '4

Cranberry sauce 19

i^i'unr 38

H. Mis. 393 — 13

Iteans :

liost<M> baked ...

dried, roasted, and ground .

Potatoes

I.inic-juice (frozen in small cakes)

Alcohol (in il-|>uund s<|uarc tins)

Pounds.

•).S
3.S
"4
9
94

Total 900 '4

Weight of large sledge, about 70 pounds; two

Hudson Hay sledges, Ko 150

Aggregate (amount drawn by seven men) 1,276

Average drawn by each i8j

194

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

; I

I :

; 1

All tins were removed from tlie several articles of food (excepting the cranberry sauce), and they were
sewed up in light bags. The dogs got at the meat packed on the Hudson Bay sledges at the Hoat Camp and
ate up about thirty pounds of bacon and corned beef. For this reason and others I didn't adhere strictly
to the proportion of the several kinds of meat, as originally contemplated. Nor while at the Boat Camp
did we strictly adhere to the sledge ration. For \> ^nt of time, &c., I didn't compare amount of stores
actually accumulated here with the estimated inventories; there was one can of lime-juice pemmican miss-
ing if nothing else.

Fifth march forward,* [Jh/aris] Boat Camp to Rocky Gorgk Creek.

/f/>ri/ 1 6. — At 10.24 P- m- left Boat Camp with whole party and took a course for what I supposed to
be Gap Valley, a ravine across Newman Bay, almost directly east and on the north side of the e^t.'nsion of
the bay to the south. It is also at the end of a line of cliffs, and is the only water-course, excep'"''g some
nsignificant gullies, hardly noticeable on that side of the bay. For some distance from shore we traveled
over a smooth surface of ice mostly. This was succeeded by snow, very hard and level, and uninterrupted
by the smallest eminence until perhaps half-way across, when the surface became somewhat soft. Notwith-
standing the very heavy load the dog?; made good time, and soon left the othor sledges far to the rear. We
stopped twice to relash sledge-runner, involving about forty minutes' delay.

^/>ri/ 17. — At 3.10 a. m. arrived at ravine, at upper end of Little Delta, some one-half mile inside of
ice-foot. Leaving the «' jdgv' and Christiansen here, I walked up the bed of the stream about a mile and found
the grade easy and "^hc travelin ~ good, except in two or three places where the stones were exposed ; mounted
a side hill some hundred feet, and saw that the narrow valley debouched from a rocky gorge a little farther uf.

At 4.30 a. m. returned, and, detaching the dogs, sent Christiansen back with them to bring up Narc^-^
following after myself. Sergeant Brainard had found it necessary to concentrate the whole party on two
sledges at a time. The dogs continued on the track and were divided between Ila/l and JJaycs, which were
a long way behind. I assisted in bringing in Nars, At 6.30 a. m. the whole party together in camp where
dog-sledge stopped. The dragging over the last lalf of the route was not found easy. Weather very fine.

Advanced 10 miles in 4 hours; traveled 14 miles in 8 hours 4 minutes.

Sixth march, from Mouth to Head of Rocky Gorge Cheek.

At 10.35 P- "!• "1^'" party started, leaving behind Nares and concentrating on the other two sledges.
At 10.50 p. m. left V ith the dog-sledge; dropped one-half of the load after proceeding a few hundred yards.
We soon par.sed the others, and a little beyond my farthest of yesterday came to the narrow gorge referred to.
Its vertical sides were but a few feet apart; underfoot the stones were exposed. Passing this the stream-bed
widened and ran between sloping hills, but we encountered at the same time deep, soft snow. This was
the general character of the traveling — ravines with soft snow, \.aried by gorges, at intervals, with exposed
stones and fragments of rocks. The stream is very tortuous, but the grade very slight its entire length,
except when interrupted here and there by low banks of drifted snow. Its general course, as near as I could
judge, is southwest.

April 18. — At 2.20 a. m. reached a sudden widening of the ravine, when, from the low elevation of the
adjoining hills, I was satisfied we were near its head ; the traveling for the last two hours or more through
deep, soft snow. At 2.45 a. m. sent Christiansen back aft^r rest of the load, and continued ahead by myself
to reconnoiter. After half an hour's walk I ascended a bill to my left, but saw nothing of note excejjt New-
man Bay, &c. In another hour I was back again, and, after some delay, continued on down-stream, hoping
to meet the main party, but only met the dog-team slowly returning. (Camped.) At 7 a. m. reached open
place again, and 8.30 lighted lamp for su[)per; 10 a. m. supper finished.

Advanced 6 miles; time, forward, less delays, 3 hours and 30 minutes. Traveled 17 miles; time, in
route, 8 hours, 10 minutes.

Seventh march, Gorge Creek to lower part of Lost River.

At 5.40 p. m. got up; at 6.55 p. m, lighted lamp ; at 7 p. m. breakfast of sausage, bread, and tea. No
beans, potatoes, or sugar; used a little more than the allowance of meat, on this account. At 10.12 p. m.
started with half-load, the traveling somewhat better. In an hour we came to a fork of the ravine coming

*The journeys back and forth on the straits [Rolieion Channel], after crossing the first time, are not counted . —J. B. L.

*sis^/^

THE LADY FRANKLIN KAY EXPEDITION.

195

in from the north, the first branch of the main stream which seemed to offer a practicable route to tne north.
One or two had been passed, but they were so narrow and steep, mere gullies, as to forbid the assumption
that they formed part of Lieutenant Beaumont's route. It was the route of this ofticer, as laid down on
his map, that I was endeavoring to follow. However, I continued on, but when a few hundred yards, seeing
the stream bearing decidedly to the east, I left the sledge, and, ascending a low slope to the left, soon found
myself on a "divine," very similar to the divides on the Western prairies. To the north the "breaks" of
water-courses, running in that direction, could be s een. On the sloi)e alluded to I saw what Christiansen
gives the Eskimo names for eagle [Nektoialik an i iertersoakj; was unable to get a shot.

April 19. — At 12.12 a. m. back again at the ()rominent ravine referred to above. Built a cairn as a
guide for the others and then followed it up with the sledge. After proceeding forty minutes the ravine dwin-
dled down to the proportions of a shallow "prairie draw," one miniature valley running north, anodier — the
main one — bearing off to the east. Dropped my load here and went back to last camp for what was left.
^.30 a. 111. back again with entire load thus far. Left half of load and, proceeding north, soon found myself
on level ])lain, its broad expanse stretching out for miles all around. The weather was overcast, threatening
snow, but I cou'd see the "breaks" to the north anil, an hour's traveling, reached them — the snow affording
very good traveling — and found myself in a watercourse, quite broad and offering a very good route; the
snow was generally hard and kvf stones exposed. The general course of the stream seems northwest; it is
very pictures(jue.

About 7.15 a. 111. I came to what looks like a gateway, opening into the street, a canon running east
and west and so level that it was with many doubts i concluded to the left wasdown-stream. At 7.30 a. m.,
seeing no signs of the expected sea, I pitched tent, ahd, leaving everything in it, after forty minutes' delay
started back for rest of load. 10.15 arrived on plain, and at 1 1 a. m. loaded up and '•n route back to tent.
' . .45 ]). 111. reached tent, very tired. At 6 p. m. supper finished and Christiansen and I in sleeping-bag.
I'"elt a good deal of uneasiness at not finding the sea (or some signs of it) which I expected to reach long
before this. Felt no assurance that I was going down stream and not up. Could only convey my ideas to
Christiansen by signs, and he was equally willing to agree to either proposition.

Proceeded 10 miles; time, 5 hou/s, 15 minutes. Traveled 30 miles; time, 16 hours, t,2> minutes.

April 20. — To Repulse Harbor and back with empty sledge.

At 6.30 a. 111. got up and proceeded to jirepare breakfast; morning fine. At 10.30 a. m. started down-
stream with empty sledge, resolved to find out something definite. After proceeding half a mile the canon
changed into a wide valley bordered by sloping hills which, at a little distance back, assumed the propor-
tions of mountains. Passing the point of a hill, which hid the view ahead like a cape, the valley was seen
to continue on in a direction a little north of west until closed up entirely, apparently, by a low range of
hills. At 1 1.4s a. ni. we reached this ]'lace and found a narrow gap. I here delayed thirty minutes and as-
cended a hill, but could see little but another valley-like expanse ahead, which seemed to turn to the north.
In half an hour more we were opposite this opening to the north, and saw the floe-bergs lining the long-
looked-for coast. On our right and left were low, sloping points about half a mile distant from each other;
behind us was a semi-circle of hills and mountains, a good way off, and before us a level delta of bare stones.
A few feet more in the elevation of the Polar Basin would make a bay of this place ; it was doubtless the
bed of one sometime in the past. 1.15 p. m. reached the sea after a walk of about a mile over the "delta''
referred to, having left the sledge back. About one-half mile from the coast I found an old piece of drift-
wood about 6 feet [i.8"'J long, 6 inches ^152"""] wide, and 4 inches [102""" | thick, p'ne or fir. apparently split
from the body or branch of a tree. It was partially buried. A sample preserved. While on the coast I
perceived, several miles to the west and quite near the coast, a lark«pot that loot^ed like a cairn, but having
been often deceiveil in cairn-like rocks, and not wishing to delay, I didn't visit it. At 2 p. m. started back
with sledge, and in i.3<( hours of rai)id traveling reached camp. Fo\ tracks noticed cii route. 6.35 p. m.,
after a luncii, Christiansen and I started up-streanr.

At 6.35 p. m., after a lunch, Christiansen and I started up-stream again with cmjjty sledge to find main
party and help them along. At 8.15 p. m. arrived near head of stream and found main party in camp just
about to eat breakfast, in which we joined them, and also replenished our own store of rations which had
run out entirely. .At 10.40 p. m. started down-stream again with a load from the man-sledges.

April 2\.—^\. 12.40 a. in. reached camp and went to bed. Weather cold but clear and bright. At
Sergeant Brainanl's camp it was —39.0" [—39.4° C.|.

Traveled about 25 miles; time en route, 14 hours, 10 minutes.

196

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

I )J

[Ml

Eighth march forward, Los:' River to Skaco'.st.

At 6.55 p. m. started from camp, taking half of the impeiliinenta now on hand, which made a very heavy
load. At 8.34 p. m. we reached the camp of main party, who had passed my camp anil continued on down,
till just above the Gap. The upper part of this wide valley had some soft sr.ow and tl)e lower part a good
many bare places where the stones were exposed, so the traveling was bad. When I reached here a strong
wind down the valley had become a very disagreeable snow-storm. After rehashing sledge Christiansen went
back after rest of load ; I turned over to the main party that part of theirs which I hail brought thus far.
I found the men all asleep. All were well, though a good deal worn by the hard work. At 11.35 P- '"• ''^'^^
with the main party to assist them till the Antoinette (the dog-sledge) overtook me. We left one of the
small sledges back and advanced JViires some distance below the gap or gorge. In passing this place on
return for other sledge I met Christiansen and joined him again.

A/iri/ 22 — The storm made traveling exceedingly uncomfortable, especially on return for second half of
load. One could hardly open his eyes or see anything when they were open. In course of time, however,
we got the first half-load to the east side of the entrance to the valley and reached it again with the other half
at 4 a. m. We were now near the coast, and the traveling seeming very good, I put on everything and started
ahead. We followed the tracks of the main p-irty, who, in the mean time, had passed by me, and, with the
storm at our backs, were getting along very well, when, all of a sudden, the sledge-runner broke down. It
had cracked from end to end. We were able, however, to get along with a few articles, having now a clear
ice-foot. At 6.30 a. m. reached a floe-berg ahead, in the lee of which the main party were endeavoring to
pitch their tent, by means of guy-ropes, a heavy banking of snow, &c. Despairing of making the A tent
stand, Christiansen and I pitched the little shelter tent and then got supjjer with the men. At 1 1.30 a. m. in
sleeping-bag with Christiansen, the little tent made, smaller yet by the snow piled all around it, almost to the
top. While at supper some of the dogs thought it a good place to rest, and we returned to find the bag
covered with snow. Remained in the sleeping-bag the remainder of the day, missing supper prepared in the
large tent. The storm continued to rage till early in the morning of the 23d, when the wind ceased.

Proceeded 10 miles; time, about 6 hours. Traveled about 25 miles; time, 11 hours and 35 minutes.

Ninth march, along Coast to Snow-slopes.

A/'/i/ 23.— At 2.30 a. m. got up and crawled out. Woke those in the large tent. The dogs ate up
all the bacon left, about 20 pounds, and about half as much F^nglish beef during our sleej); it was packed
on the JVa/rs and out of their reach, it was thought. I then sent Christiansen back for what was \fft l>ehind
yesterday. During his absence we built a cairn and left in it two days' rations for the entire party and one
day's dog-food (a list ajipended).

At 7.15 a. m., Christianstvi having returned, I started with the dog-sledge. The main party left at 7
o'clock. The broken runner had been patched up before starting, but I felt sure it had seen its last day.
However, we got along for an hour when it gave way again. Leaving almost everything I proceeded ahead
and overtook the Mires, Hall, and Hayes. 1 exchanged runners with the first-named sledge (its load was
lighter than miwej and lefi it to the ingenuity of Sergeant Elison to again patch up the broken runner,
if possible. All this occupied some time and then the men started ahead while Christiansen started back for
load and I awaited his return. On his return, everything was put on the dog-sledge and we proceeded en
route. At and beyond Drift Point the snow-slopes and soft snow were met with, and it became necessary
to " double ui)," /. c, advance by half loads. Some distance beyond the Point I overtook the men, brought
to a stand-still by the mended runner giving way completely, beyond all redemption. I considered several
expedients, and finally, as the only alternative, lashed the two Hudson Hay sledges together and packed on
them the load of the A^airs in addition to their own, the seven men combining on this one vehicle. I added
to the dog-sledge the old runner thus made.

At 2.45 p. m. reached a place where it was impracticable to go farther except on the floe. As this
involved some work in the rubble ice adjoining, I sent Ciuistiansen back for rest of load, while I went back
to help the men. They only got along with great eflbrt; the two sledges, lashed together and so loaded,
dragged like a harrow. We reached the place just referred to and went into camp, about the same time
cutting a route through the rubble-ice near by. Our position was about a mile west of Plack Horn Clifls.
The traveling this march was as already described, except that between Camp and Drift Point the route lay
over an ice-foot covered lightly with hard snow.

Advanced 5 miles; time, about 4 hours. Traveled 15 miles; time, 8 hours, 30 minutes.

tHE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITIO]^.

197

Tknth march, Sn«jw-si.opes td Black Horn Cluks.

Apr:! 24. — lireakfast, 6 a. m. At 8 a. m. all started, each sledge leaving behind half its load — llic
two Hudson Hay sle<lges separated from each other. Shortly after starting we encountered rul)l)le-ice which
recjuired more or less road-making for half a mile. Opposite Hlack Horn Ciliffs, and extending a short dis-
tance this si<le, was a clear, smooth Hoe of ice (formed last year I suppose), over which, with a heavy wind
on our backs, we made rapid progress. When opposite the farther end of the clifts, and some distance from
shore, further advance was stoppeil by a considerable mass of rubble-ice. Unloading in the lee of a hum-
mock I sent men and sledges back for what remained at last cam]), and went forward alone to find a route
to the shore and also examine a ravine some distance ahead which I thought might be Stanton (lorge. I
found a route, somewhat circuitous, to the shore without much difficulty, and continued nn over a smooth,
level floe (last year's), which extended half way to (iorge. 'I'he other half of the distance a good route was
found on a hard, gently sloping snow-slope inside the line of bergs and hummocks which here commenced
to fringe the shore. I saw two ptarmigan in winter plumage along here. I found no cairn or provisions,
though I went half a mile beyond the (Jorge. The violent wind made my return slow and very uncomfort-
able. At 3.30 \). m., got back to the hummock, ...id found Sergeant Brainard, Christiansen, and uog-sledge.
The others had not yet returned. At 6 p. m. got everything to shore, the two Hudson Hay sledges coming
up with our last load. The men had encountered a good deal of difficulty in walking back against the
head-wind, though I sent their sledges back on the dog-sledge. Pitched tents close to cliff and got to bed
about 9 or 10 p. m.

Advanced 6 miles; time, about 5 hours. Traveled 18 miles; time, about 10 hours.

Elevknih mar(H, Black Horn Clikks to Rkst GoRfiK.

At 4.40 a. m. Sergeant Jewell got up to cook breakfast. Christiansen (Eskimo) complained of being
sick, and ate no breakfast; he certainly looked so. I understood by his signs, in a vague way, that something
was the matter with his stomach. I delayed somewhat on his account, but then concluded to move on to
the gorge and there go into camp, delay twenty-four hours, and then send him back if still sick. At 9 a. m.
started off; snowing. Christiansen managed to han<lle the whip, but had to ride on the sledge whenever it
was possible. We had some trouble in getting through some rough ice before reaching the snow-slope, but
reached the Gorge in about an hour, about 2 «/^ miles. Pitched my tent and put Christiansen in sleeping-bag ;
a drink of whisky was the only medicine I gave !'.im. Taking Sergeant Brainard I returned with dog-sledge
to our last camp and brought up the pemmican and after that another load, which, with what the Hudson
Bay sledges brought up, left nothing more. The two sledges, Hayes and Hall, were now almost worn out
and very hard to drag. Shortly after starting this morning the sun came out bright and warm and so con-
tinued; we took advantage of it to dry our clothes, &c. In the afternoon I sent Sergeants Ralston and
Jewell ahead to try and find the English cache at Stanton Gorge. They were fortunate enough to find
it ; the cairn stands on a hill of some elevation some distance back, and doesn't " show up " from the western
approach.

Advanced 2^ miles; time, i hour. Traveled 7^^ miles; time, 3 hours.

TWKLKTII MARCH, ResT GoRGK. TO FrANKIIKLI) BaV.

April 26. — At 2.30 a m. woke Jewell. Before starting we built a cairn here and left one day's rations
for entire party and one foi che dogs, also everything in the way of clothing, foot-gear, &c., that could be
spared. This was cache No. 2. Christiansen expressed himself as well and able to travel, though he didn't
eat much. At 6.45 a. m. entire party left camp. At 8 a. m. I reached Stanton Gorge with dog-sledge in
advance of the others. Sent Christiansen back for rest of load, and the others soon coming along Sergeant
Ralston showed me the cache upon a hill or shoulder of the mountains, about a hundred feet [30"'] high.
'J'his cache consisted of 40 rations, 56 pounds sweet pemmican, 10 pounds bacon, ami a metal box contain-
ing the hard bread, jjotatoes, iS:c., also a can of rum which Sergeant Ralston had brought down to Rest
Gorge the previous day. I built up the cairn again and left a record of my movements to date, and took
the rations to the ice-foot convenient to the dog-sledge on its return, for I thought it desirable to take them
on to Cape Ikyant. I then sent the main party on. At 10.40 a. m., Christiansen coming up, we continued
on with all the dogs could haul, reached Cape Stanton, crossed Hand Bay, and at 2.15 p. m. overtook the

198

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXrEDITION.

other sledges. I told the sergeant to continue on a certain distance, and, then camping, to return here for
my load, which I there took off, and went back to Stanton Gorge tor what was left there, taking Sergeant
Ralston along in place of Christiansen who complained of his head. ^Vt 8.15 p. m. got back to camp of
main party, which was near Frankfield Bay opposite Mount Lowe. A beautiful day, calm and bright. The
route from last camp led us as far as Cape Stanton, inside a line of floe-bergs, on a snow-sk)pe quite steep
in places but generally hard on the surface, and offering fair traveling. As an exception, however, it should
be stated that there is an ice-foot for some little distance at Stanton Gorge. The traveling over Hand Hay
was also quite good.

Advanced 9 miles; time, 5^ hours. Traveled 27 miles; time, 13 hours, 30 mirtites

Thirteenth m.iRch, Mount Lowe to Cape Bryant.

Apil 27. — At 7 a. m., about, breakfast. Before starting I left one day's rations for entire party in
cache. At 8.25 a. m. started with dog-sledge, leaving half-load behind. Main party started at same time.
Traveling rather heavy (over snow-covered ice-foot). At 9.25 a. m. reached east shore of Frankfield Bay.
On the bay the snow was generally hard and good. From here the only route, or at least the best route,
forward was over the foot of a hill, the ascent rather steep and the slope quite so the snow on it had packed
hard and smooth. Continued forward till 9.45 a. m., when reaching the ice-foot, Christiansen and I threw
off load and started back for remainder met the men a few minutes after reaching the bay, and at 1 0.45 were
at last camp, getting back again to first half of load at noon. At 1.42 p. m. I reached farther side of an
indentation of the coast, which really deserves to be named. Here I sent Christiansen back again for first half
of load, and the men coming along one-fourth hour afterwards, I joined them and helped to pull; continued
with them about two hours, and then went back to where load was thrown off to await Christiansen's arrival
in order to haul tent, &c., brought on, for 1 knew that when we reached Cape Bryant it would be too late
to go back without rest. I had told Sergeant Brainard to keep on till he reached the cape. I walked back
in just a'uout one-third the time occupied in moving the sledges forward. I waited an. hour before the dog.
sledge arrived. At 5.40 p. m. started en route again. Some hours after this I saw four ptarmigan and killed
three with the shotgun, Christiansen had some time before when by himself killed two with the pistol.
(This pistol had a wooden stock, similar to a gun's, fixed to it, and we habitually carried it on the sledge.)

At 8.30 p. m. reached Cape Bryant. The others had not been in long. Sergeants Brainard and Ral-
ston had been suffering from snow-blindness, and Private Frederick from a hurt knee. At 10,30 supper,
and an hour afterwards in sleeping-bag.

The traveling since leaving Frankfield Bay has been along a low fore shore, excepting two or three
indentations of the coast, where we crossed old floes. Along the shore we traveled over a snow-covered
ice-foot, or what is generally called an ice-foot, sometimes gooti and sometimes Ixtii; never veiy bad. • Over
the floes referred to, it was generally quite fair. Weather very fine.

Advanced 15 miles; time, 6 hours, 2 r.mutes. Traveled about 36 miles; time, 12 hours, 5 minutes.

at cape hrvant.

At 10.40 a. m. got up. After breakfast Sergeant Jewell and I ascended the hill or ridge just to the
south and got a good view of the country. Cape Britannia was dimly visible; later in the day it was (juite
distinct even from near by the tents. The view is so well re[)resented in Lieutenant Beaumont's journal
that I will not attempt to describe it. Sergeants Brainard, Ralston, and Elison went along the coast to the
south to look for Lieutenant Beaumont's cache or cairn, but were unsuccessful. They ascended a high cliff,
some five miles distant, and got a good view of the floes, and reported that the route ahead looked very
good. I made no further efforts to find the cache, principally for want of time. I had kept a good look
out en route here, and felt pretty sure that no cairn could be found readily. After my return from the hill
the rest of the day was spent in making prei)arations, fijc, for further advance. Late in the day I sent
Christiansen back for what was left behind yesterday

ji/>ri/ 29. — Personally inspected the two Hudson Bay sledges, and was confirmed in the declaration of
all the men that they were entirely unserviceable for further use. One 1 cut up and made slats of for the
dog-sledge, the other was repaired sufficiently to carry the constant weights of Sergeant Linn's party on
their return to Boat Camp. After this I built a cairn on the slope of a hill, perhaps a quarter mile from the
shore, and deposited inside the forty English rations, all our own that were surplus, the gun, &c., and every-

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

199

thing I thought we could do without. I also left a record. Sergeant Brainard suffered severely from snow-
blindness during the day, and had to remain in the tent. During my stay at Cape Bryant a strict adherence
to the ration was not observed. I gave Sergeant l.inn a dozen pounds of the English beef and some sugar,
tea, iV'c, fearing the rations left in cache (four days) might not be sufficient. Moreover, the meat left in
cache consisted entirely of lime-juice pemmican (very much disliked by all). The dog-sledge being now
the only means of ailvance, I selected Sergeant Brainard to accompany Christiansen and myself, and made
up a list of seventy-five rations, sufficient for twenty-five days' absence from Cape Bryant, viz :

founds.

- '7

-- - «9

I'emmican (lime-juice), 35 rations ..

Musk meat (frozen in tins), 25 rations

Canned meats (sausage and English beef), 15 rations .

Heans, lioston, ba' ed

I'otatoes, e vaiKjrated

Cranberry sauce (3 cans) ..

Tea, 30 rations ...

Chocolate, 25 rations

Sugar

I.ime-juice (fro/en in cakes)

Hard bread

Milk

Alcohol

4'A

3
10

^'A
29

Total 227^^

The constant weights, I'^ic, consisted of i A tent, poles and pins, 2 sleeping-bags (i buffalo and i dog-
skin), I cooking lamp, i rubber blanket, i ax, i spade, i hatchet, i pistol, i sextant, i sledge-runner (extra),
I shelter tent, i small cooking lamp (extra), 2 pair snow-shoes, i catch-all bag, containing ammunition, cups,
plates, spoons, sounding line and lead, brush, record cases, tin funnel, measure-cup, chopping-board, &c.j
3 clothes bags (individual weights given elsewhere) :

Pounds.
Total constant vcights 176

Dog-pemmican (3 sacks), 300 pounds ; weight of sledge .^m/o/W//^, 80 pounds . 380

FOURTKENTH MARCH, LEFT CaPE BrVANT, OPPOSITE TO St. GeORGE'S FiORIJ.

At 4.18 p. m. (29th) Sergeant Linn and party left on return to Boat Camp. I gave him written orders
to return there, and thence .send three of his party to Fort Conger to report my progress while he awaited
further instructions. At 4.47 p. m. I left with dog-sledge, Sergeant Brainard and Christiansen (F.skimo)
taking a course towards Cape May. The weather continued delightful. Found the floes ijuite hard and
levei, interrupted only by occasional low, detached hummocks over which the drifted snow made our pro-
gress very satisfactory. When nearly opposite Dragon Point, however, the snow crust seemed to weaken
and the sledge fretjuently sank to the slats, requiring our united exertions to move it.

A/>ri/ 30. — At I a. m. camped opposite Dragon Point, the dogs being much exhausted by such a heavy
load. The clearest day I have yet seen; no wind. Temperature lower than usual. At 4 a. m. finished
supper. At 4.20 a. m. thermometer, —1° [ — 18.3° C.J; barometer, 29.35 [745.48"""]. Halts during march
for relashing, &c., about thirty minutes in all. Lieutenant Beaumont's sketches and descriptions of this
section very good, as well as I could judge by the eye. At 4.50 a. m. went to bed.

Advanced 16 miles in 8 hours and 13 minutes. Traveled 16 miles in 8 hours and 13 minutes.

Fifteenth march, opposite Beaumont Fiord.

At 1.05 p. ni. thermometer, —6° [—21.1° C.j; minimum, since last read, —14° [ — 25.6° C.]; barom
eter, 29.40 1746.75"'"']. Weather very fine; 10.05 'i* "!•' lamp lighted; 2 p. m., breakfast. At 3.40 p. ni.
thermometer, —0.5° f— 18.1° C.J; barometer, 29.4° [746.75"'"']. At 5.22 p. m. started with full load.

From 6.07 to 6.25 p. m. stopped to double up, /'. <•., left half of load. From 7.45 to 7.55 p. m. stopped
to rest; it requires our united exertions to get along. At 8.56 p. m. level floe; stopped by hummock; sent
Brainard and Christiansen back for rest of load while I proceeded to take a number of compass sights ;

200

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results very unsatisfactory, there being differences of lo" in the same bearing. Judging that when sledge
returned it would be time to camp I pitched tent an<l made preparations for supper ; i c p. ni., thermometer,
24°; [—4.4° C.J; barometer, 29.38 1 746.24"""]; thermometer in tent, 26^ [-3.3° C.j.

Af(iy I. — At I a. m. thermometer, 21° [—6.1° C. I ; barometer, 29.47 [748.52'""'] ; sky somewliat cloudy,
at 1.05 a. in. dog-team returned; at 3.10 a. m. supper; thermometer, 15° [ — 9.4° C.|; barometer, 29.47
[748.52"""]. Weather pleasant during jjast twenty-four hours; overcast but only moderately so. The drag-
ging very heavy and fatiguing; snow sometimes knee deep, the sledge coming to a stand-still repeatedly. On
these occasions the dogs com])lacently sit on their haunches and observe the operation of pulling it out,
which falls to us. After dropping half the load the traveling seemed to improve, due, possibly, to a slight
change of direction, which brought us on a line with Cape Britannia. Sergeant Brainard is almost or
(juite over his snow-blintlness. We found the lime-juice j)emmican very unsatisfactory and eat it only with
great reluctance. Cape Britannia very distinct ; due, ])robably, to the remarkable refraction of the almos-
j)here. Beaumont Island pre- ented the appearance of an island on top of another, the first inverted. At
4.15 a. m. turned in.

Ai'vanced 6 miles in 3 hours and 34 minutes. Traveled 18 miles in 7 hours and 43 minutes.

Sixteenth march, arrived opposite Cape Mav.

At 1.30 p. m. cook (myself) arose, English beef for breakfast; 2.45 breakfast ready; the cooking
occupied i hour and 10 minutes. Used more by half than the ration of alcohol. At 3.20 thermometer,
29.5° [ — 1.4° C.]; barometer, 2i;.46 [748.27"""]. Slight breeze from SW. ; sky clear; at 4.25 p. in-
started from camp with e\cr)Uiing; 4.43 to 5.04 p. m. stop|)ed to double up after repeated "stalls"; 6.18 to
6.30 stopped to rest. Sent Brainard back to await return of sledge. At 7. 11 to 7.27 stopped at an old floe-
berg and, tak ng off load, sent sledge back for remainder. Character of the ice better, so that I determined
to try hauling everything ac once. The floes in sight very large, broken at long intervals with ranges of low
hummocks, iscl.»ted mounds scattered here and there, all covered with snow. The floes in places are slightly
undulating; at 7.48 p.m., thermometer, — 1 '[ — 18.3'' C.]; barometer, 29.375 [746.1 1"""]. In sun ten minutes
later, thermometer, 7.5 [ — 13.6 C.]. Light wind from NK. ; weather clear. At 9.40 p. m. thermometer,

— i°[— 18.3° C.]; barometer, 29.32 [744.71' ]. Very slijjht breeze ; a little overcast; at 10 p. m. sledge

returned with rest of load ; i}4 hours in coming, and twenty-iwo minutes afterwards we started with every-
thing. Proceeded thus till 11.23, when it was necessary to throw off h.iir the lo.id. Left Brainard behind
with it.

Afar 2. — At i a. m. reached an immense unbroken floe opposite Cape May. At 2.51 a. m. reached
line of low, hummocky ice extending across my route, and at 3.13 Christiansen, having assisted me in pitching
the tent, started back, I during his absence preparing su])per. At 6.35 a. m. ting-sledge reached camp with
second half of load. At 9 a. m. thermometer in tent, 25° [— 3.9° C.J; barometer, 29.40 [746.75"""]. The
traveling mu jh better than yesterday; weather fine, bright and calm. We are hardly more than five miles
from Cape May. The large floe last referred to extended north as far as I could see. Sup])er consisted
of tea, lime-juice peniinican, hard bread and a stew (?) of beans and cracker dust; the a!lnw:u.ce of alcohol
only sufficed to melt tiie ice and varni the water; t' •; stew was cold. .Vi j.15 n m. turned i;i.

Advanced 12 miles in 6 hours and 45 minutes. Traveled 30 miles in 14 hours and 10 minutes.

Skvkntkenth march, o\ Fi.ok. west o;' Stephenson Island.

At 3 p. m. Brainard got v.p to cook breakfast. At 4 p. m. breakfast. The alcohol not sufficient; tea
only warm and stew cold, the t;a gave each i^'/i pints, thermon.cter, —4.4 [ — 2o.2°C.]; in sun, 22°
[ — 5.6° C.J. Minimum since Irst read, 9' [-12.8' C.J. Baromet r, 29.35 [745.48"""]. Weather calm and
clear. Ditln't sleep much; Brrinard had the same experience. The Eskimo invariably snores tw.i minutes
after composing r.imself for rest. At 5.35 p. ni. thermometer, 8.5° [ — 13.1° C] ; barometer, 29.32 [744.7 1"""].
Ha/y and cahr. Too'; a number of compass bearings of ])roni'nent points, very carefully, and was dis-
appointed to find t'le instrument no better than 'lefore. I had sjient some time yestenhi) in trying to mend
it. There seems to be a want of magnetism. At 6.52 p. m. started with full lor.'l b'roin 8.09 to 8.20 p. m.
stopped to rest — 20 standing hauls since starting. Erom 8.57 to 9.10 p.m. stopped to double up. Dogs
very tired. Brainard remained behind with half-load, from 10.16 to 10.38 stopped to rest. Attempted a

fHfi LADY FRANKLIN HAY KXI'EDITION.

201

sketch of Stephenson Island — an island to all a|)pearance from here. Saw wolf and fox tracks going north
some distance back. Noticed a line of hummocky ice extending from lieaumont Island in the direction of
Cape May. Doubled up just in time, the traveling since, up to tiiis sjiot, being soft and deep, sometimes
nearly uj) to the knees. At 10.45 p. m. came to a crack in the i( c which seemed to follow the line of huni-
mocky ice referred to. This crack when first met was the length of a tent pole in width, and full of free water
and sludge about 2 feet [Oio"""|, as I remember, below the level of the edge of the it e. Following it south
a few hundred feet we found two or three cracks to cross, but only 2 feet [6 10""" J, or a little more, wide, so
there was no difficulty in crossing. This place was at the intersection (approx.) of a line from Ca])e Britannia
to Cape Bryant witii another between Cape May and Beaumont Island. At 1 1.05, this being a good oppor-
tunity to get the depth, I sent Christiansen back for Sergeant Brainard and the load, the lead and line not
being with nie.

May 3. — .At 1.07 a. m. dog-team back again. The dogs always travel much faster going back or
forward over a trail. Selecting a good spot I gave Sergeant Br.iinartl the line; it ran out its full length with-
out touching bottom. I then attached, in succession, four coils of seal thong, a long piece of rope, andi
finally, Christiansen's whip — all with the same result, no bottom. Having nothing now left but the traces of
the dogs we began drawing the line back, while considering if these should be risked. I hatl attempted to
measure: it exactly by arm-lengths as it went df>wn, but found this inconvenient, and decided to wait till we
got it all out. We drew out the whip and p:. t of the rope, when the latter suddenly parted, and, of course,
the rest was lost. The rope was about one-half inch [13"""! in diameter, and would hari'ly bi.- ijujugiit the
first part of the line to give way. The approximate length of line below surface is as follows; Rope, in-
cluding whip, 148 feet [4S"'J; 4 coils thong, 240 feet [73"']; 4 ])ieces twine — each 108 feet [33'"] = 432 feet
[132'"]; total, 820 feet [250'"]. Weight of lead, 6 pounds. Thus, besides the loss of the line, all further
attempts at sounding were prevented.

At 2 a. m. proceeded en route with half-load. In the course of one-ipiarter hour crossed a narrow line
or belt of low hummocks seemingly parallel to that by the ice crack. After this was an immense level iloe
which extended to the right and lef. and ahead as far as I could see; it was ditlicult to see the smallest
break or unevenness in its great expanse. At 3 a. m. met a little mound of snow-ice which, as it saved the
melting of snow for water, I camped alongside of, and twenty minutes afterwards Christiansen started back tcj
Sergeant Brainard and rest of load. At 4.46 a. m. dog-sledge returned. At 7.25 a. m. thermometer (in
tent), 36.5° [2.5" C.]; outside, 26.5" [—3.1° C.]. Barometer, 29.43 [747.51"""]. Very clear, with slight breeze
from south.

Advanced 8 miles in 4 hours and 7 minutes; traveled 20 miles in 9 hours and 54 minutes.

ElGHTEENlH MARCH, ON Fl.flE SOUTHWEST OF CapE BRITANNIA.

At 4.15 p. m. the usual trouble with the alcohol; used a little extra. Have changed the order of lime-
juice pemmican and meat, and will have the latter after getting into camp (supper), the former at breakfast
hereafter.

Bearings from this camp: Beaumont Island, SSE.; Cape Britannia, SE. by S. ; Stephenson Island,
S\V. by S.; Cape May, NW. by W. (all magnetic). At 5.30 j). m. thermometer, 19^ [-7-2' C.]; barometer,
29.47 [748.52"'"']; moderate wind from west. At 6.10 p. m. started with full load.

From 7.30 to 7.42 p. m. stopjjed to rest; snow very soft. F'lom 8.28 to 8.35 p. m. stopped again at a
line of very low hummocky ice, which sweeps in a curve to the northwest on one hand, and on the other to
the southwest, toward Cape May. The floe we now saw before us was an unbroken expanse of level snow,
and seemed to continue thus and occupy the whole sp.ice between Beaumont and Stephenson Islands and
Cape Britannia, reminding me very much of the plains of the West. Crust quite hard and firm, enabling
us to carry everything at once. At 9.35 p. m. intersection of route with a line between Beaumont and
Stephenson Islands. From 10.07 1° 10.28 p. m. stopped to rest; snow soft. From 11.05 to 11.20 stojjped
to throw off half-load. Sergeant Brainard remained behind.

i\fay 4. — At 2.55 a. m. hoped to reach Cape Britannia this march, but it coming on to snow, and the
dogs being very tired, I stopped and pitched tent. At 3.09 a. m. Christiansen started back with empty sledge.

At 4.30 a. ni. thermometer, 8.5' I— i3.i"C.]; b.arometer, 29.57 [751.06'""']; overcast with light snow.
At 7 a. m. thermometer, 27° [ — 2.8°C.]; barometer, 29.62 [752.33"'"'].

;

202

THE LADV FKANKLIN HAY KXPEDITION.

,i!

! :;i

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At 7.10 liRliteil lam|), seeing sleilge approat hing. At 8 a. m. sledge arrived. Alcohol insufficient again,
and again encroached on the small surjilus brought along to make up for leakage or accidents. At 9.55
a, m. turned in.

Advanced 14 miles in 7 hours and 51 minutes; traveled 30 miles in 13 hours and 50 minutes.

NlNETEKNTH MARCH, REACHED (-'AF'E UrITANNIA.

At 3 ji. m. called IJrainard to cook. At 4.45 p. m. breakfast; temperature in tent, 40° [4.4° C.]. At
5.45 p. m. thermometer (column separated); barometer, 29. 46 (748.27"""]; very calm and j)erfectly clear.
The dogs, during our sleep, got at the pemmican, which was buried as usual under the sledge, and ate two
and one-half days' allowance. At 6.20 p. m. started with everything. 'I'he traveling very good over hard
snow and near shore over small, undulating surface of ice.

At 7.53 p. ni. reached Cape Britannia. 'I'he line of demarcation between the floe and the shore ice
was very slight, and only indicated by one or more indistinct cracks. After pitching the tent on the ice-foot
we proceeded to build a cairn 20 or 30 yards [18"' or 27"'] above, on the side of a little ravine, just below the
clitf. The cairn is about 7 feet [2"'| high. In it I depositeil a record of my journey to date, also five days'
rations, three days' dog-fooil, the e.\tra sledge-runner, shelter tent, little lamp, and the two pairs of snow-shoes.
The last three articles were brought along in case the snow east of Cape Bryant was too deep to allow the
dog-sledge to travel at all, &c. After ascending the cape I judgedVe could get along without them. After
this I took an observation for latitude. 'J'his anil subsequent observations for latitude are to be found
annexed. Christiansen came in with a ptarmigan; it had commenced to change its plumage; some of the
feathers were black.

Co.-ist of fiord east of Strphensnii Id.

May 5. — I a. m., thermometer, 2° [—16.7° C.]; barometer, 29.52 f749.79"""] ; calm.

Sergeant Brainard and 1 started for the top of the cape, or mountain it might properly be called. We
followed the water-course referred to ; the ascent was quite steep, with several intermediate crests or ridges,
each seeming from below to be the top. At 2.31; a. m. reached the summit. At 2.43 a. m. thermometer,
14.5 [ — 9.7° C. I ; barometer, 29.32 1744.71"""]. Windy. We were apparently on an island ; its most north-
ern limit ended in a bold headland a half-dozen miles distant. Away to the northeast, or a little south of
it, was a l)old headland, some 15 or 20 miles oflf, the termination of a promontory or island stretching to the
north. Between it and me were the projecting capes of three similar bodies of land farther to the right, all
separated by great fiords stretching to the south and overlapping one another so that little could be seen to
the south of them but a confused mass of snow-covered peaks. Glancing round towards the north and
west the eye rested on nothing but the ice-pack till Beaumont Island was reached. After that the mount-
ains near Cape Bryant. Stephenson Island is evidently an island ; for the opening of a fiord that separates it
from Cape May can be seen, and on its east is an immense fiord running to the south. The two fiords are
(to all ai)pearances) connected. No land visible at the head of the large one. To the east of this the coast
trends otif towards the southeast, forming, with the south side of the Britannia coast, an immense funnel ending
in a fiord. All to the south is an indistinct mass of snow-covered mountains. We built a cairn on the
summit and deposited a record ; 'cairn about G^^ feet [2'"] high. Height of cape, as indicated by barometer,
1,950 feet [594"'|. Ciot back to camp at 4.50 a. m. At 5 a. m. thermometer, 12° [ — 11.1° C.) ; barometer,
29.48 [744.18"""]. Saw several hare tracks on side of the mountain. At 5.50 a. m. turned in.

Advanced 4 miles in i hour, and 30 minutes. Traveled 4 miles in i hour, and 30 minutes.

Twenty-ninth march, from Cape Britannia towards Black Cape.

Bearing of bluff farthest ahead by little compass, E. (mag.).

At 7.05 p. m., breakfast finished and everything ready, we started, traveling at first over ice-foot of clear
ice, afterwards on level floe near shore, the undulating " blue-top " ice of which was exposed in many places.
The traveling excellent ; everything at one load. .Saw some fox and hare tracks. At 9.08 p. m. reached the

THE LADY FltANKLIN 15AY EXPEDITION.

203

cape farthest to the north [Cape Frederick], ami < amc in sight of tlic distant licadland seen from sununit.
Stopped to relash runners. We traveled at a trot almost all the way here, at least 3^ miles an hour.
During the delay of the sledge I went out on the tloe to the north to take hearing of the l.eailland just
referred to, hut ten (10) observations with the ])risinatic comiiass diflered so widely that I derided to depend
altogether on my pocket compass. The hearing hy this was SI'',, (mag.). While out here I saw the tide-
crack, evidently a continuation of the "Wi: crossed west of Cape Itritannia. My attention was first .ittrac ted
to it on stopping the sledge, when we ail heard a low, ilroning sound as of moving ice. No ice in motion
was seen, however. M 10 p. m. sledge mended, and we startetl again. In rounding the (ape we had excel-
lent traveling on last year's ice ; it < onlinued some distam e htjond and reachec! to the north several hundred
yards from shore. From \<jrth ('a|)e |('a[)e I'Veileric k] the tide-crack continued towards lllack Ca|)e, ( urg-
ing to the right iii roiil<\ It was |)lainly marked liy a line of heapedui), hummocky ice, and hy heing the
line separating the smooth anti generallv level floes inside from the rcnigh pack without. 1 took a course a
little to the right of Black Cape, towards Ridge | I'.lison ' Island, and soon finmd m\self on an old tloe with
a gently undulating surface. 'I'lie crust at first was (piili hard hut afterwards became soft, and progress slow.
All inside the ice-crack seems one unbroken tloe of smooth, livel snow assuming an imdulating surface in
most places near the ice-crack, caused by ranges of hummocky ice covered with snow-drift.

Coast alicad from c;imp bcyniul UritaimLu.

May 6.— At 10.12 a. m. camped among the hummocks. At 12.50 thermometer, 7.5° [ — 13.6° C.];
barometer, 29.37 [74S-9^"""1' ^'^dm and clear. Heard the noise as of moving ice again. Clinstiansen went
out to tide-crack, where there was a large j)cjol of open water, to look for seal ; he s.iw none. " Ritenhenk "
ate up the ptarmigan shot at Cape Britannia, ('ape Britannia is evidently on an island. What appeared
to be a i)oint indicating a c:hannel on its south side was cpiite ])l,iin. The fiord at whose mouth we camped
ran to the southeast or south an immense distance ; no land visible at its head. Jn this dii' < tion, but
hardly more than 10 miles off, a fiord ran — or seemed to — in a direction generally jarallel to our course and
to make islands of the land on the right of our course. At 2 a. m. supper, and after an observation all
turned in at 3.20 a. m.

Advanced 11 miles in 4 hours, 13 minutes. Traveled 5 hours, 5 minutes.

?'?

Twenty-first m.arcii.

TO RAiiiiiT Point [Cai'f. Bkn^t.]

At 9.45 a. m. got up and went out to take observation. At 11.30 breakfast ; morning very bright and

clear; some wind. At 1.20 p. m. thermometer, 22.5° [ — 5.3° C.J; barometer, 29.37 [745.98 J. Light

wind from south. At 1.40 p. m. started with everything. At 2.18 p. m. saw some jiools of open watc?r at
tide-crack, which we now found ourselves cpiite near. Stopjied ten minutes. The crack is here over 50
yards [46'"] wide and covered with new ice, except where broken by these jiools or lanes. From 3.38 to
3.41 stopj)ecl opi\)Site north end of Ridge [Klison| Island. Its west side extends NW. and SK. From 4.54
to 5.09 ]). m. .stopped to make hasty sketch. At 6.10 ]>. m., opposite Snow jMarkham] Island; a narrow
fiord seems to separate this island (?) from the land to the east of it. F'rom 7.15 to 7.24 ]>. m. reached
shore under Blue Cape. Saw Ibx tracks, liearing of coast to the south WSW. (mag.), and of Black Cape
ENF>. (mag.). Continued on towards latter, and in.stead of having a short distance, and that along coast
another bay or fiord was found to intervene. Blue Cape is evidently ])art of an island. From 8.35 to 9.03
J). 111. reached IJlack Cape and stopped. A great many tracks of foxes, hares, and lemmings along here.
We also discovered some old marks on the ice-foot, which Christiansen said were "narsook" (bear). Ice
very much piled up, indicating great pressure. Ahead, and slightly to the north of a line joining North Cape
[Cajie Frederick] and Black Cape, stands out another dark headland (Distant Cape). Intermediate, but
more to the ritjht, are several channels or fiords. Towards the first of these we traveled on an ice-foot, first
through deep, soft snow for some distance, but afterwards on almost clear ice. Following the .slight inden-
tation of the coast we passed a dark, rocky bluff, and at 10 p. m. reached the first opening, which, to all

'I ('.

iiu

N :

JiL

1:04

♦rUli LADY I'UANKLIlJ IlAY EXI'EUlTIOiJ.

aiipcaraiiccs, is ;i bay about as ilfc|) as wide. At 1 1.20 p. m. reached east side of l)ay, resting live inimites
fn loiile; travelinjr fair, and at 11.33 p. in. reached Rabl)it Cape [Cape Henet), where we camped. Had
intended canipiiig at Distant Cape, l)ut it still looked as distant as ever, or rather as near, but no nearer, and
was sei)arated from us by a wide tiord. Shortly after getting to camp Christiansen v.ounded a hare, but it
re(|uire(l a vigorous chase of all hands to cat<h him; there was no more ammunition at hand.

J/rfi' 7. — At 2.10 a. m. sujjper finished; 2.515 a. ni. thermometer, 22.5 ' [ — 5.3" C.|; barometer, 29.30
[744.21"""]; clear and fair; slight wind from the west. At 3 a. m. turned in.

Ailvanced 17 miles in 8 hours, 43 minutes. Traveled 9 hours, 53 minutes.

'rWENTY-SECOND MARCH, RaMHIT ToINT [CaPE HkN^.I ) TO I.OW I'OINT.

At 6 p. m. cook arose. Sergeant liiainard, who ilid all the cooking after leaving Ca|)e Britannia; Chris-
tiansen and I helping in cho])ping ice, \c.; 7 p. m., breakfVist. I had intended getting up at 9 for meridian
observation, but it commenced snowing during our sleep. Determined there to remain in camp and institute
a habit of starting just before midnight (Washington time) in order that the observations would not inter-
fere with sleep. At 9 ]>. m. thermometer, iO° [—8.9° C.J; barometer, 29.28 [743.7o"""[; minimum since
last oi)servation of thermometer, 10° [— i j.2° C.j; snowing; no wind; 1045 p.m., thermometer, 15.5°;
[ — 9.2 C.]; barometer, 29.28 1 743.70"""]; calm; still snowing. Built a cairn near shore; left in it three days'
rations and dog-food (scarce one day's alcohol). .Saw two ptarmigan, and hit one of them but it escaped.
At 1 1. 15 p. m. broke camp. In a few minutes we found ourselves beyond the hummocky ice which seems
heajied \\\t against all these capes, and on the level surface of another bay or channel [Mascart InletJ, which
of the two could not be determined on account of the falling snow.

Aftiy 8. — .\t 12.15 '" '-•-5 '1- '"• stoi>[)e(l alongside of a solitary hummock to rest; snow soft and deep
and traveling laborious. This hummock or berg looks as though it had been there for ages. Between 1.30
and 1.45 a. m. reached farther shore some ways up the tiord. Snow deeper than before, and near shore, under
the ice, were cracks in which I would every now and then plunge, thigh deep; the worst traveling experienced
.since leaving the Ikevoort Peninsula. I Witlked ahead of the sledge to encourage the dogs. We were disap-
pointed in finding a route inside the hummocky ice near shore, and had to keep on the outside for some
distance, when, getting over this barrier with a little more than the usupI amount of pulling and pushing, a
practicable route was found inside, though the snow was deep and there were several bad places, steep
grades, I'vrc. We rounded the cliffs at 3.10 a. m., and saw Distant Cape still ahead and another inlet inter-
''ening. The snow on this was quite ;.;ood. I presume this to be a bay, though, like all these bodies of
water, there were so many overlapping points at its southern extremity that I couldn't be sure. At 3.52
a. m. reached farther side and traveled along a good ice-foot (juite rapidly, and at 4.06 a. m. reached Distant
Cape, a grand headland of dark looking rocks forming a huge cliff. Fat in advance in the same general
direction, loomed up another headland, for which we started at 4.33 a. m. At 4.25 thermometer, 17,5°
[ — 8.i''C.]; barometer, 29.32 [744.71"""]. Snowing lightly; sun dimly visible through clouds. Immedi-
ately before us was another inlet, and at the extremity of its eastern coast a dark cliff (apparently a pro-
montory), bearing S. (mag.). Just to its left was a low point of land, very obscure on account of the snow;
5.47-56 a. m. readied farther shore near the clift referred to. Snow so thick as to blot out the land left
behind. The inlet just crossed sirmnl a bay, as well as I could judge from what I saw of its shores. The
surface was hard, much of it what we call "blue-top" floe, and afforded good traveling. "Ask-him," one
of the dogs, seemed (|uite lame.

At 6.17 a. m. reached a low, shelving point of land (Low Point). The traveling from the cliffs here,
which we thought would be good, proved just the reverse; deep snow all the way, interrupted only by stones
on which the sledge-runners grated ; everything obscured or hid by the snow. Could see no land beyond
the fiord which we had now reached, and, being very tired, made an early camp. Shortly aft'T this
Urainard sudilenly exclaimed that he saw an island. I went up on the hill near by and saw to the imuh-
east, apparently off the farther side of the fiord, a detached cliff (seemingly detached). My little pocket
compass gave its direction S. 60° L. (mag.), estimating the degrees. Distant Cape NNW. (mag.). At
8.30 a. m. thermometer, 28° [ — 2.2 C.j. Barometer, 29.42 [747.25"""]. Supper just finished. We ate half
the rabbit in a siac; sujjposed to be cooked, but quite cold and raw. It was very palatable, however.

THE LADY FUANKIilN IJAV EXI'KDITION.

205

nrainanl and I very tired after tliis iiiarih; \vc I oth remarked a freiiuciit (eelinjj of lassitude and weakness ot
late, due proliaMy to tiie warn> weather. At n.-jo a. in. turned in, after takin^; an ohservatiim for laiitude.
Advanced 12 miles in f> luuirs, 1 minute. Traveled 7 hours, 2 minutes.

'I'wKMV-imui) .MAiu II, Low I'oiNr 10 I'm KKi I!av.

At 6,30 p. in, cook arose (Sergeant Brainard). At 6 p. m. thermometer, 10 | — i,!.j t'.|. Itarometer,
29.40 I 746.75"""]. Weather overcast, with wind from the west and slight snow. Sum dimly visible.

At 7. 25 J), m. breakfast of doj; iieininiian, after which I took an observation, or rather attempted to,
At 10.50 p. m. cloudy, with wind from the west and drifting snow. At 1 1,20 p. m. left canij).

A/(ir 9, — The traveling over the inlet [Jewell Inlet] was i|uite good, there being nuK h hanl snow aixl
blue-top ice. Delayed eight minutes about the middle of the bay to catch a lei'Miiing that was running
along on the surface of the snow, .At 1.53 a. m. reached farther side of bay — if bay it is — and at 2.15 a. m,
reached Cape .Surprise [Ramsey]; a little beyond we stopped twenty-four minutes for lunch of lime-juice
pemmican. The land trended more and more to the south again, aixl on farther side was another jioint
[Cape Wijkander] bearing SK, by S. (mag.), ajipearing from present position like a (lome-capi)ed island.
Intermediate was another bay or channel, which of the two I could not determine on accdunt of the snow.
The traveling and its surfiice was fair. At 4.15 a, ni. reached farther side under a line of high, graml c liffs.
Was delighted to find an ice-foot of smooth ice, clear of snow, on which the dogs drew the sledge at a trot.

At 4.50 a. m. stopi)ed to take observation, but after spending some time in fruitless ende.'.vor, 011 ac-
count of the heavy wind and drifting snow, I gave it up in disgust. The coast we were following seemed to
trend so much to the south that I feared we were going up some fiord, and so resolved to camp and await
the t:learing up of the weather — in the mi an time getting a meritlian observation if possible. Walkeil ahead,
opposite a break in the cliffs which lets in a little bay, to find a jilace where the tent would stand.

At 6 a. ni. the sledge came up antl we camped. At 8.30 a. m. su|)per finished. We traveled all day.
(or night rather) in the midst of a high, we.->t wind and driving snow-storm e.xtremely disagreeable. At 9
a. m. thermometer, 12" [—11.1' CJ. Uaromet'^r, 29.46 [748.27"'"']. High wind, with snow, bun invisible
altogether.

Advanced 17 miles in 5^4 hours; traveled 6 hours, 40 minutes.

TWENTV-FOURrH MARCH, PoCKKT H V Tl) SHOK [ MaRV MlRRAV] IsI.ANn,

At 8.50 p. m. attempted an obscrvai' 'V but tl-.i, sun looked like a grease spot, and I succeeded poorly.
Some time was thus occupied, and afterwards in breakfast, straining mercury, iVc. .Morning c!.. iy; the
wind greatly subsided. " Ritenbenk " stole rabbit out of tent while we were asleep (the remaining half), but
I woke up just in time to get out doors and save enough for a meal. He was lying down, eating it very delib-
erately, the other dogs looking on.

May 10. — At 1.05 a. m. left camp, and, reaching farther side of Little Bay, followed along untler the
cliffs on a very good ice-foot; from 1.55 to 2.20 a. m. stopped and built a small cairn on a low, flat piece
of ground between ice-foot and a line of hills some distance back. Traveling very good, but we;'.ther bad. '
The coast-line was pretty straight, but had a general trend to the right (south).

From 3.25 to 4.18 stopped and took observation, the sun being dimly visible. Ahead, some miles
along the coast, was another cajie [Mohn], sloping back to a mountain [.Mt. H. S. Gardiner]. To the
left obli(iue, dimly visible, was a cliff bearing southeast (mag.). Nothing could be seen between the two,
and, shortly after starting, the clift" ahead disappeared and I had to resort to the compass — no unusual thing
in crossing these fiords, but annoying as one is never certain of his course. However, the traveling -vas
gooil, and at 7.15 a. m. we reached the cliff [Cape HoffmeyerJ which formed the entrance to the fiord |^De
Long Fiord], bay, or channel we had just crossed. From 7.20 to 8.06 a. m. stopped for a lunch of pemmi-
can ; built a cairn under the grand line of cliffs, and proceeded along over a very fine ice-foot, everything
very much obscured by the driving snow. From 8.47 to 8.55 a. m. sutldenly saw a small [Mary Murray!
i.sland to the left oblique, bearing SE. ^mag.). Ahead the line of cliffs seemed to end or turn at a vapc
[Cape Neumayer] bearing S. (mag.). There was no riilge of ice between the ice foot and the floe, and
leaving the latter we traveled half-way across very fast, over blue-top ice, with a strong wind from the west.
From 9.15 to 9.45 a. m. saw the sun very indistinctly through the clouds and stopped for observation,
getting down in lee of the sledge. Proceeding again, we traveled over hard snow. The island had dis-
appeared from sight, but presently reappeared, and at 10.15 a.m. we reached its northwest end. The

ilhi.

i I

200

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY KXPEDITION.

island [Mary Murray | i:; a narrow, rocky ridge, projecting a few lumdred feet above the level of the ice, its
lop inai icssiblc hut in a k\v ])laces. Followed down farther side of island, but co"l(l see no land in any
direction, that we had left having also disappeared. At 10.30 a. ni. reached southeast end of (Mary Murray]
island, which lay like a sliip at anchor with res])ect to the wind. Here we were much ])rotected from the
wind, and there being no chance of proceeding farther we pitched tent and camped. At 10.38 a. ni. lamp
ligiitei! for supper; at 12, noon, sujiper. -Determined to lie over here till the storm moderateil, fnuling it
very severe to travel in, and to eat at as long intervals as possible in order to save rations. At 3.07 p. m.
went to bed.

Advanced 22 miles in 6 hours, 41 minutes; traveled 9 hours, 25 minutes.

^T SlIOK [mAKY MUKRAY] ISLAND.

Afiif II. — .\t 3.15 a. m. got up. Tiierniometer, 9" [— i2.8''C.]; barometer, 29.42 I747.25"""] (both
in tent). \\'e:Ulier still stormy, and nothing can be seen nor anything done. At 4.10 a. m. breakfast. 'J'her-
'uometer, 10' [—1 2.2'' C.\ ; baiometcout of order. Tl'.e wind, in gusts, first on one side and then the other,
threatened to blow down the tent. At 9.20 ;.. m. thermometer, 6" | — 14,4° C] (in tent).

f^/irv 1 2. — At 2.45 a. m. still blowing and snowing without. JSrainard and myself, as well as t'hristiansen,
sufiered a great deal from cold feel, something unknown since early in April, and (piite unaccountable. It
int(.'rfered a great deal with our slee[', and nothing wo could do seemed to help matters much in this respect.
At 3.55 a. m. breakfast or sui)per; thirty-five minutes in cookimr. At 5 a. m. Christiansen and 1 went out to
feed d;)gs. I saw one of them swallowing a lemming as I went out; saw land to the east an(l northeast,
an<' a very higli mountain in the former direction; a bold cliff [('a|)e Christiansen] to the north of it, tern>i-
naling the UhhI in that direction, bears SIv by S. (mag.). Some time occupied in taking an observation for
latitude, the sun being dimly visible, aiitl afterwards in filtering mercury. At 1.30 p. m. took observation
for time, the veather dealing up. Got good view of the coast to the northeast. A litth; to the left of the
first cape was another [Cape Kane], and then beyond that a third |Cape Washington], a long way off .seem-
ingly, continuous land to the south of Shoe | Mary Murray] Island. At 2.30 p. m. turned in ; at 8.45 p. m. got
up. Intended getting up at 6 and starting on, but we oversle|)t ourselves. It was just as well, for the sun
again disappearcil, and the sto:in seemed to have returned as bad as ever. At 9 ]). m. thermometer, 9"
f— 12.8' C. I; baroir.eter, 29.39 [746.49'' '"]. Lamp lighted for "skollin;"* cooking occujiied twenty minutes.

'rWECNTV-lli-lll iMAKClI, SH()|'. [iMa'^V MuKKAV] IsI.AND K) I'^AKTllKSI' [LocKWOOD IsLANI)].

JAy 13. — At 12.30 a. m., thermometer, 11" [ — 1 1.7" C.]; barometer, 29.30 [744.21"""]; northwest wind
and snow, but the ca|)e ahead [Cai)e NeumayerJ could be seen, and anything preferable to cold feet endured
for sixty-two hours. At 1.45 a. m. started from camp after building a small cairn near by. The cape disap-
])eared from view shortly after starting, but the traveling was very goo<l near shore over blue-top thje, and
at 3.45 a. in. the ca|)e was reached. Here, and along the line of clifis beyond which it terminates, immense
masses of bergs anil hummocks were j)ressed so close to the foot of the cliffs that it was necessary to get
outside on tiie lloe. A tortuous way was found to the to|) of this icewall anil the sledge then lowered by
means of the traces some 15 feet j.ibout 5'"] or more. For some distance then we worked our way slowly
through a mass of rubble-icc, with the constant use of the a.\, and crossed two or three small lanes of water, and
then tra\eled for a few lumdred yards on a clear lloe of last year's ice, when, at 5.30 to 6.15 we were stopped
by another lead or lane of water. The sun being discernible I too!; an observation, and at same time sent
Christiansen to find a crossing. One being found we continued over a Hoc of last year's ice at (|uite a rapiil
gait on a line generally parallel to tlie cliffs on our right, which ran, 1 judged, a little south of east. Pres-
ently, the weather clearing, a large, wide inlet [W'eyprecht Inlet], with the cliffs and mountains on its farther
side, opened up to view, forming a grand iianorama — the most remarkable yet observed. To the right oblitpie
.he line of cliffs ended in a cape from which the coast turned abruiitly to the south and then ran in a curve
towards the southeast, forming the western shore of the inlut. Directly ahead was a pyramid-siiaped island
jiSrainard lsland| of considerable altitude, which seemed to touch the line of ditVs [Lockwood Island] back
of it. This line of clifls ran almost north and south, ending in a ca|ie to the northeast of our position, and
on the other hand gradually curving bai k to the southeast and forming the eastern side of the inlet [W'ey-
precht Inlet|. A little to the right of the islanil [lirainard Island] referred to is another, apparently, of a

* Tcnii used liy iJuiiisli Mskiiiio fur fowl. — A. \V. O,

THVi LADY FBANKLIN BAY KXI'EDJTION.

207

cone shape. The land to their rear towered up to an enormous height and formed a mountain certainly not
less tlian 4,000 feet [1,219'"], eompletely dwarfing the island and thfts l)eneaili. The tide-crack, wliich we
were now on the outside of, ran in a great curve lietwcen tlie two <apcs, forming the extremity of the inlet.
It was marked i)y a wall of ice hummocks. Inside was a level surface of snow covering a floe which ex-
tended from shore to shore, and outside alternate masses of rubhle-ice and smooth tloes of last year's ice,
or what i judged to be such. 'I'aking a lourse for I'yrainid Island [Hrainard Island] we (rosseil the tide-
crack without trouble, and, the snow inside being generally hard, made good time, l-'roin 8.15 to 1S.37 reached
the island and stepped to rest. What was taken for aii island soutli of it appeared to be only a peculiar
formation of the land of the main coast. Followed along the shore of tin? island [lirainard Island] to the
north and came to a wide stretch of snow separating it from the shore. The snow had now got very soft.
01)li(|ued to the right towards the main coast [l.ockwood Island], hoi)ing to find better traveling, but were
disappointed in this. From 9.49 to 9.55 stop])ed to rest The traveling after leaving the island | IJrainard
Island] very laborious through deep snow at every step. Sun like a grease spot in the sky ; blowing, snowing,
and drifting —im])()ssible to take any observation for latitude. From 10.10 to 10.40 a. m. attempted an ob-
servation; very severe work and doubtful of any value. After this the snow got worse, till we found omselves
sinking to the thigh at every step, the dogs to the belly, and the sledge above the slats. It was only for a
short distance thus, and the snow light and loose, or it would have been impossible to get along at all. At
11.30 a. m. reached the end of the coast line [l.ockwood Island] — the traveling very bad — and continued
on, turning gradually to the east till the cape, stricily speaking, was reached at 1 1.4.S a. in. I''n)m here the
coast trended to the south again and another fiord [C!onger Inlet] appeared. At 2 p. 111. attempted observa-
tion, but gave it up — sun too obscure and weather too bad. .At 3.40 p. in. su|.per; forty minutes occupied
in cooking it. hearing of farthest ])oint ahead [C,"a|)e Kaiiej .SIv by I'",, (mag.). At 5 p. m. turned in.
Advanced 16 miles in 8 houru, 15 minutes; traveled * — miles in 10 hours, 3 minutes.

sketch of " Farlllfht" fioni the west.
AT FARTHEST [LOCKWOOU ISLANn[.

Miiv 14. — At 7 a. m., as f awokj, I saw the small piece of i)enniiican (dog-food) remaining slowly
moving out of the lent. On further investigation I found that " Ritenbenk " had burrowed a hole under the
canvas, and had in.serted his head far enough in to lay hold of a corner of the sack. He got inside the tent
at the last camp, but was as unsuccessful then as "ow. At 8 a. m., breakfast; the cooking occupied forty
minutes; tea only warm and stew cold. Stiil blowing and aiowing; no sun visible. Last night it seemed
as if the tent would be blown down. The rations being almost exhausted, I decideil to make this cape
[Cape Christiansen] my farthest and devote the little time we could slay to determining accurately my i)osi-
tion, if the weather would allow it. It seemed very doubtful. At 10 a. m. the sun became visible but had
j)assed the meridian. I feared the high cliHs here would obstruct the observations, and so moved tent, i"\:c.,
about one-half mile to the west where they were lower and the last liord jU'eypri'chl Inlet | opened a view
to the .south. 7i« >vu/c we stopped and built a large, (ons|)icuous (aim, about 6 feet |.2"'| high and
same in width at base, on the lower of two shelves or benches. It is about 30 feet [y"'j above the level
of ice-foot and alxnit the same number of yards <listant from it, and just this side of a pi( tiiiesipie mass of
rocks which crowns the cliffs. In the cairn I afterwards deposited a record of i,.y journey to d.ile, and also
the thermometer (mininunn-registering). I regret that the instrument only reads to —(<^.o" [ — 53.9° C.J.
It was set at -f 14.0" j — 10.0' C.]. .Alter repitching tent Sergeant lirainard and I leliiriied to cairn and
collected in that vicinity .spe'imens of the rocks and vegetation of the country, the .sergeant making alino.st
all the collections. The w aher had now < leared up beautifully, the sun bright and dear, and the atmos-
phere calm and mild. Most of the time from now till midnight was taken up with observations, iVc.

*Omi>siun in ori(;inal.— A. W. (J.

208

THE LADY F14A^'KL1N BAY EXPEDITION.

May 15. — At 12.05 a. m. sui)|)t'r, thirty-five minutes cooking; that is, before tlie alcohol was exhausted.
Stew only warmed; chocolate, ditto; two \i\\\\. cui)s ])er man. In order to he awake and get observations
nl proper times Hrainard and 1 took turns in sleeping; 8.30 to 10.30 a. m. occupied in taking circum-merid-
ian observations for latitude.

At 11.45 "• '"• breakfast. At 2.45 p. m. started with Sergeant Hrainard to ascend the cliffs (opposite
the tent comparatively low and sloping). We ascended without difliculty to a small fringe of rocks which
seemed from below to form the toi), but found it only a kind of terrace of the main elevation which lay be-
fore us. The ascent, at first very gradual, became steeper as we went up, but we had no difficulty, as for
some distance below tiie summit the surface is covered with small stones as uniform in size and position, \:c.,
as those of a macadamized road. Reached the top at 3.45 p. m. and unfurled the American flag (Mrs.
Greely's) to the brce/.e in latitude 83° 24' N. (acc:ortling to last observation).

The summit is a small plateau, narrow but extending back to the south to broken, snow-covered heights.
The barometer being out of order was not brought along, so I didn't get the altitude. It commanded a
very extended view in every direction. The route of our last journey lay very distinct. Beyond Shoe
[Mary Murray) Island lay a dark cape ||)robably t'ape Ramsay |. but I could not exactly identify it. It
bore N\V. (mag.), by pocket compass. Between the cape this side and my position lay the iiroad fiord
[Weyprecht Inlet] last crossed, extending in a curve to tlie southeast, its .source shut out by the high mount-

Next point hcyuiul K.trtln--^t.

ains south of me. To the northeast (about) projected another rocky headland [Cape KaneJ to the north,
and at its foot I could perceive another low shore projecting out and forming another cape [Cape Wash-
ington] some distance beyond, doubtless separated from the first by a fiord [Hunt [''iordj as the first was
from the jiromontory on which we stood; the fiord [Conger Inlet] just to the east exteniling south till shut
out by the mountains south of us, but it presented every appearance i/f connecting in that direction with the
fiord [\\ eyprecht Inlet] last crossed. The horizon beyond, on the land side, was concealed by numberless
^now-covered moimtains, one profile overiajiping another, anil all so merged together on account of their
umversal covering of snow that it was impossible to iletect the topogra[)iiy of the region. To the north lay
an unbroken expanse of ice, interrui)ted only by the horizon. Could see no land anywhere between the two
extreme capes [Washington and Ramsay] referred to, though I looked long and carefully as also did .Sergeant
Brainard. Delayed on toji twenty minutes. Left a short record in a small tin box under a few small stones
(there were no larger ones), and then returned to tent, getting back at 4.50 p. m.

RETURN TO FORT CONGER.
First march, Farthkst [I.ockwood Island] id Cai'K h vond Shoe [Marv Murrav[ Island.

At 3.50 J), m. (i5'!i) started on return. Found traveling better, partly on account of the late storm
and partly on accouni of taking a direct course to Pyramid Ishiml [Hrainard lsland|; the load also con-
sisted of hardly anytliing but the lonstanl weights; still we eiicoimtered a good deal of soft snow. At 9.40
to 10.15 ]!. m. reached Rubble ("ape, and hauled sledge up by hand after unloading. Shortly after starling
the weather became overcast, .inother storm threatening.

Miiy 16. — .At 12.19 a. m. reat lied Shoe [Mary Murray] Island; stopped about ten minutes to leave
record in (aim. .At 1.40 a. in. reached first cape west of island and we;it into cim]) ; 4 a. ul, supper finished.
.\ly eyes began to trouble me a gutxl deal, exidcntly strained in sextant observatior.s when the sun was
obscured. The two iidets [Weyprechl Inlet and Wild Fiord] passed to-day seemed of immense extent and
have many lateral brandies. I'lie last [Wild Fiord | partit ularly runs a long way into the interior; I could
not see the head of it, due, perha[is, to the state <jf the atini)s|)here. \ long ivay up is an island.

Advanced 20 miles in 7 hours, 25 minutes; traveled 8 hours, 10 minutes.

.VO

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

209

Second march, Cai-e wkst ok Shoe [Makv Murray] Isi.anij to Cai'k [RalstonJ wkst ok Dome

[WijkanuerJ Cape.

At 3 p. 111. breakfast. Tea only warm and stew cold. At 4.50 p. ni. started from camp; at 5.41 [>. m.
reached inlet [Cape HofTmeyer, De Long Fiord] and took compass course. Ik'ing unable to see any*''::ig
we got ui) the fiord too far. At 9 p. m. reached shore [Cape Mohn] on west side; 10 p. m. reached little
cairn anil deposited record. I also deposited a record in cairn [near Cape Hoffmeyer] met about half an
hour after leaving camp. At 1 1 p. m. reached Pocket Hay, and at 12 ni. reached Dome Cape [VVijkander].
The fiord [Gardiner Hay] here appeared closed in like a bay, but I could not be certain on account of the
weather.

May 17, — At 1.30 p, m. reached cape [Cape Ralston] on farther side of bay or channel [Gardiner Hay]
last crossed and went into camp. At 4 a. m. finished '•skoffin"; the chocolate so cold as to be undrinkal)Ie;
the stew with hnnps of ice in it. This march positively has been the most uncomfortable to me since leaving
the Hrevoort Peninsula. Wind and snow directly in our face; eyes painful and, strange to say, cold hands
(the latter I have been very free from while on the ^0). The dogs ate up my seal-skin mits some time ago;
30° or 40" below zero [—34.4 or —40.0" C], without wind, is preferable to this weather.

Advanced 27 miles in 8 hours, 25 minutes; traveled 8 hours, 40 minutes.

Third march, Cai'e [Ralston] to Rabbit Cape [Cai-e Henet].

At 5.15 p. m. left camp. From 5.50 to 6 p. m. reached first fiord to the west and, being able to see
Distant C^ape, made directly for it. From 8.04 to 8.20 p. m. arrived about opposite Low Point antl stopped
to observe what looked like a glacier [Huys-Haliot Glacier] some distance inlanil to the east of it. Tiiis
glacier had all the appearance of a mound-shaped hill covered with snow, with a continuous wall of green ice
all along the side towards the sea. The wall must have been of considerable height, though at my stand-
point it looked ijuite low; all around were snow-covered mountains except on the north side, where a
uniform and rather low sloping surface came down to the coast. Distance of the wall from the coast, 4 or
5 miles, or much more perhaps.

At 9.40 p. m. reached coast near Distant Cape, and in one quarter of an hour had rounded cape and
reached small bay on farther side. At 10.35 '*^ '°44 l'- ii- opposite side reached ; rested. At 1 1.35 p. m.
left the ice-foot on west side of this cape [Cape Payer], Rested ten minutes in crossing this large fwd
[Mascart Inlet].

May i8.-— At 2 a. m. reached farther coast and cairn at Rabbit Cape [Cape IJenet] and went into camp.
The weather to-day variable, thick, with west wind in the morning; afterwards it improved. Traveling
quite good, on the whole, especially when compared with the outward journey. The late storms have madV;
the snow much better, but still it is very laborious across the large fiord [Mascart Inlet] just to the east.
The three inlets crossed seemed rather bays than channels — impossible to say positively. The rations left
here found untouched. Two ptarmigan seen, but Christiansen was unsuccessful in getting either. Fox and
hare tracks numerous. At O.30 a. m. retired to rest.

Advanced 19 miles in 8 hours, 10 minutes. Traveled 8 Lours, 45 minutes.

F'ourth march, RAiiiiiT Cape [Cape Ben^t] to ki.oe east ok North Cape [Cape Frederick].

At 2.50 p. m. woke up and called Hrainard. At 4 p. m. breakfast;, very windy last night. At 6.12
p. m. left camp. At 7.30 p. m. reached opposite side of bay [l.inn Hay]. At from 8.25 to 8.45 p. m
reached Hlack Cape; stopped to rest; built a small cairn. At 9.53 p. m. reached Hlue Cape; stojiijcd about
fifteen minutes for lunch.

May 19. — At from 1.13 to 1.20 a. m. stopped opposite Diamond Island |Ca[)e Salor, I'',iison Island].
A warm sun, and trudging through this soft snow, occasioned frequent stops for rest. At 2.20 .1, m. went
into canip on floe opposite floe on east siile of Cape Britannia Land. Weather beautiful. The traveling
better than it was outward bound, the wind having hardened the snow crust, but still i[uite laborious. The
ilogs still continued to look well, though pulled down in flesh more or less, excepting Ritenbenk (the king),
who for some days had been under the weather — going along with his head and tail down, and not pulling
at all. The mountains in sight all covered with snow; the fiord [Nordenskirid Inlet] opposite could be
seen to run a long distance iidand, straight as a canal; no land visible at its liuad.

Advanced 17 miles in 7 hours, 25 minutes. Traveled 8 hours, 8 minutes
H. Ml8. 393 U

■i\

i:iO

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Fifth march,

TO Capk Britannia.

At 6 p. m. left camp. From 9 to 9.10 p. m. slopped not far from North Cape [Cape Frederick].
General trend of tii.' eastern coast is SW. by S. (mag.). Weather clear. Ritenbenk seems lame as well
as sick. From 9.27 to 10.05 !>• '"• stopped; circum-meridian observations.

May 20. — At from 1.27 to 1.46 a. m. readied cairn at Cape Britannia, found cache untouched. Put-
ting the rations on the sledge, and snow-shoes, and leaving the extra sledge-runner and small lamp at the
cairn, we continued on, on the lloe. At 2 a. m. went into camp a few hundred yards from shore. The sun
bright and clear, but a south wind blowing (juite strong. At 6 a. m. turned in, after taking an observation.

Advanced 12 miles in 6 Jiours (about). Traveled 8 hours.

Sixth march, between Cape Britannia and Cape Bryant.

At 5 p. m. got up. We all seemed to sleep very heavily nowadays. After breakfast I went ashore
with Sergeant Brainard and collected specimens of the rocks and vegetation. Traces of musk-oxen (drop-
pings) found, but quite old. Saw some snow-birds. At 9 ;o p. m. started on march.

May 21. — At 5 a. m. sun very bright and warm ; calm. A singular phenomenon existed several hours
this morning ; a dense fog obscured the horizon so that no land could be seen, yet not extending high enough
to dim the sun. Difficult to keep a straight course and avoid bad ice under such circumstances. At C.01
a. m. camped on level floe. One hour's delay in all on march. At 9 a. m. supper finished. Everything
singularly bright and clear, the sun having disappeared. Shortly after starting this morning I put on the
snow-shoes. Regrets at leaving tliem behind haunted me every day while beyond Britannia. It was my first
attempt, but, notwithsianding, the relief experienced was wonderful. Sergeant Brainard soon followed my
example, and we wore them continuously thereafter till Cape Bryant was reached, and most of the time
afterwards. There was now no difficulty at all in one of us keeping ahead of the dogs to encourage them
and pick out a rouie. The snow was not very soft or deep, but still sufficiently so to be very fatiguing when
prolonged through several hours. The dogs seemed to stand it well, and drew the sledge seemingly without
much effort, but the sledge was now very light.

Advanced 16 miles in 71^ hours (about). Traveled 8 hours, 17 minutes.

Seventh march, between Cape Britannia and Cape Bryant.

At 8.21 p.m. left camp. From 9.31 to 9.41 p.m. stopped at a low ridge of hummocks. Beautiful day;
clear and calm. Sun very warm, and traveling hard on the dogs. Sergeant Brainard and I experienced no
trouble on account of having the snow-shoes ; 9.55 to 9.58 p. m., reached tidal crack ; wanted to get thickness
of the ice but the crack was frozen up at this place ; 1 1 to 11.10 p. m., stopped to rest.

May 22. — At from 12.04 to 12.25 a. in. stopped for lunch of pemmican and hard bread; 2.12 to 2.34
a. m. stopped to view a remarkable parhelia, somewhat as follows :

At 4.15 a. m camped. Weather a little cloudy and slightly overcast, threatening snow; 6 a, m., supper.
*Iy eyes somewhat painful ; Ritenbenk all right again. Two of the bitches are with pups; Christiansen
says, " White koony, 16 days."

Advanced 16 miles in 7 hours (about). Traveled 7 hours, 54 minute.s.

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THE LADY FEANKLIN BAT EXPEDITION.

Eighth march, between Cape Britannia and Cape Bryant.

211

At 8 p. m, overcast and snowing; no land visible; air cooler than yesterday. At 8.40 p. m. broke
camp and started. From 10.17 to ^°-3° rested. Fox tracks from the northwest seen half an hour previous;
fox tracks also here, going north. Land entirely obscured. From 11.57 to 12.26 stojjped for lunch. Two
more fox tracks going south seen about an hour before stopping. About i o'clock the fog lifted, so that
Dragon Point could be seen indistinctly.

May 23. — From 1.32 to 1.42 a. m. rested ; still snowing but not so foggy. Compass course to-day has
been NW. (mag.). From 2.47 to 3 a. m. rested. Sergeant Brainard or I always ahead of the sledge.
In this way the dogs travel much better and there is Ic s difficulty in taking the right direction. At
4.40 a. m. camped somewhere about opposite Saint George's Fiord. About one day's more rations is all that
is left; several items exhausted some days since. The wind started up after getting into camp. Traveling
to-day very heavy. The snow seemed to fall en masse as the sledge passed over or rather through it, a
section immediately round the sledge Hilling all together and taking a lower level ; this was accompanied
by a cracking sound. This phenomenon was noticeable every day. At 8.15 a. m. turned in.

Advanced 16 miles in (about) 7 hours. Traveled 8 hours.

Ninth march.

TO Cape Bryant.

At 4.4s p. m. got up. Weather calm, but snowing and everything obscure. At 8.40 p. m. started from
camp.

Mi/y 24. — At 12.08 a. m. reached shore about three-quarters of a mile southeast of Cape Bryant;
continued along the coast and pitched tent near old camp. The rations in the cairn near by were found
untouched. Some time was occupied in visiting this cairn, in trying to find a tide-crack along shore (in
which we were unsuccessful), &c. My left eye being quite painful I remained in tent and at 6.15 a. m.
sent Sergeant Brainard and Christiansen out to look for Beaumont's cache, and also to find a tide-crack
where we could make tidal observations. At 11 a. m. Sergeant Brainard returned; he had been along the
coast to the west, some 2j4 miles, but was unsuccessful in finding the cache. Coming back he found
a tide-crack opposite the tent but some distance from shore. At 2.20 p. m., after a. hearty meal, we all
turned in.

Advanced 12 miles in (about) 3^ hours. Traveled 3 hours, 52 minutes.

at cape BRYANT (RETURN).

At 11.20 p. m. (2<ith) got up.

May 25. — At 12.20 a. m. breakfast (a fine one), musk-meat, bacon, potatoes, and tea, which I got from
the cache. An hour afterwards I went with Sergeant Brainard to the tide-crack about half a mile from
shore, and, selecting a place, let down a rope with a stone attached. The depth was 103 feet [31'"]. This
was the only arrangement that suggested itself of getting a record of the tide. The weather was overcast,
with snow, and the crack concealed from the shore by several intermediate ranges of hummocks, so that
each observation occupied twenty-five minutes out of the hour. We commenced at 2 a. m., and continued
the observations till noon (each taking alternate tours of four hours), when I became convinced that our
record was worthless, and so stoppetl the work. One cause of want of success seemed to be a tide or
current which inclined the rope to the right (east), and when the stone was raised and lowered several times
in succession it seemed to take a different level on each occasion. The divisions on the rope were made
with string tied around it. Several crustaceans were brought up from the bottom with the stone.

The dog'i during our operations visited the cairn on the hill und ate a few pounds of hard bread, the
only thing tl.ey could gel at. Supper at noon. At 3.40 p. m. returned from cairn with Sergeant Brainard.
We rebuilt the cairn, secured the rations to be left in it, &c. (a list appended). We are both made miserable
again with our eyes. They were made worse, of course, by the tidal observations, as it was necessary to
have them uncovered in walking back and forth. After this we all turned in to sleep.

Ti;ntii march, Cai-e Bryant to Hanh Bay.

At 10 p. m. arose, and in about an hour had breakfast. Beautiful morning; calm and clear; temperature
a little lower.

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212

TUE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Af(jy 26. — At «2.49 a. m. left caniii; at 2.35 a, ni. stopped. Sergeant Brainard, who was walking on
snow-shoes along the slojie some distance to the left, called out that he had found Beaumont's cache. The
sledge was ojjposiit.- a v.at'T-rniirse, which forms a delta, reaching to the ravine, perhaps a mile inland. On
a small, bare hillock, or mound, about 150 yards [137'"] from the coast, we found an old Knfield rifle, a pole
shod with iron, cross-piece of a sledge, three or four articles of underwear, the wooden sole of a shoe, some
cartridges and the loose balls of others, a thimble, sewing-thread, \'c. The tent, sjjirits of wine, pemmican,
coverlet, Arc, which we expected, were not to be found. Around the foot of the little bluff (or mound) lay
several feet of snow, which n)ay, however, have concealed these articles. No cairn, or trace of one, could
be found. Abundant fox and hare droi)pings were about. Some distance farther on I shot a ptarmigan on
the top of a very large floe-berg. It was only by climbing a snow-drift that Christiansen got tiie bird down.
'I'his floe-berg was (juite a remarkable one, by its size and the regularity of its shape. Its height, above the
sea, was .ibout 30 feet [9"'] by about 50 feet [ 1 5'"] long and broad ; its form was s<iuare ; an undulating surface
on top covered with snow. Sn// icicles hung from the south side. The ice composing it was very homogeneous,
apparently. How such a mass could be pressed up till it touched the ice-foot is a mystery. At 8.50 a. m.
reached cache No. 3 ; took the rations from it and conti.iued on. At 10.42 a. m. camped on the east shore
of Hand Hay ; at 12 m. sui)per. Brainard and 1 have worn snow-shoes all day. Traveling generally heavy,
and {i\r inferior to what it was on the outward journey, especially on Franktield Bay and the indentations of
the coast to the east of it. The influence of the sun on the snow and floe-bergs quite perceptible. Sergeant
Brainard suflered a good ileal with his eyes to-day, and had to keej) them bandaged. My own eyes very
sensitive to the light. The bufiido sleeping-bag is almost too warm such weather as this. A great many
fox tracks seen during the day. Tu/ned in at 2 p. m.

Advanced 12 miles in yj^ hours. Traveled 9 hours, 53 minutes.

El.KVliNlH MARCH, HaND Bav TO DrIKT PoINT.

At 8.55 p. m. Sergeant Brainard rose to cook breakfast, which we ate fifty minutes afterwards. Weather
more iileasant, being cooler and somewhat overcast. Kipped open the upi)er end of seam of sleeping-bag
during the night and found it much more comfortable. At 11.22 p.m. broke camp and started.

M(iy 27 — At 12.42 a. m. reached west side of Hand Bay. From 12.47 to 1.15 a. m. stopped at Cape
Stanton; traveling across Hand Bay quite good; the Grinnell Land shore very distinct. Cape Joseph
Henry visible, or what I took for that cape. The ice to the north of us seemed very rough ; rubble-ice in all
directions. At 2 a. m. reached Stanton Gorge; a good many fox tracks l)etween here and Cape Stanton.
Lieutenant Beaumont's cairn very conspicuous from aj)proach on east side. At 3.0 to 3.37 a. m. reached
cache No. 2 and stopped to put the rations on sledge. The traveling from Cape Stanton here along a
snow slope; the constant effort to avoid slipping down hill makes it very fatiguing. Saw a great many fox
tracks. At 4.30 a. m. reached Black Horn Cliffs. Found tracks covered up. Considered whether to make
a wide detour aroiind the rubble-ice made in April, or to follow cliffs. Decided on the latter. Got along
without much difficulty for some distance, but then encountered the mass of rubble-ice and hummocks antici-
j)ated, and had to use the ax constandy. At 6 a. m. reached west end of Black Horn Cliffs, traveling over
the intermediate floe of last year's ice quite rapidly. At 1.05 to 1.15 a. m. reached end of this level floe,
about half a mile farther, and stopped to rest. Here the old tracks ran close to shore and I was able to
follow them through the rubble-ice without difficulty, but, in a few hundred yards, lost them again. The
sledge-runners requiring rclashing I proceeded ahead with the ax and selected a route for the sledge, making
u road as I went. Found the place where we had taken to the floe on the outward journey, but could hardly
identify it, the whole character of the floe-bergs having changed; found the snow-slopes practically impas-
sable. So followed along on the floe, making a road where necessary, till, at the end of the snow-slope, I
found a good landing. Returning, and meeting sledge en route, we reached this place at 8,05 a. m.
Stoi)ped to fix traces. The changed appearance of the ice, especially the floe-bergs, a subject of daily
remark. Well known floe-bergs were so much dwindled down in si'.e as to be almost uiiecognizable. At
from 8.50 to 9.02 a. m. reached the remains of the broken sledge (the Nans). Pulled it up the hill a little
distance, away from the shore. At 9.20 a. m. reached Drift Point and camped. At 11,20 ^. m. supper. At
J 2.40 p. m. turned in.

Advanced 221^ miles in (about) 7^ hours. Traveled 9 hours, 58 minutes,

tHB LADY FRANlvLlN I'.AY EXPEDITtOi^.

Twelfth march, Drift Point to Gap Vallky.

213

At 8.20 p. m. Sergeant Brainard got up to cook breakfast. Bad weather again ; strong west wind with
snow. At 1 1.54 p. m. broke camp and started, after delaying some lime for the wind to motlcrate.

May 28. — At from 12.50 to 1.04 a. m. reached cache No. i. tlie site of our first camp on this coast;
the i)Iace hardly recognizable; the large piece of hummocky ice, behind which the tents were pitched,
hardly half its former size. Found the ice-foot clear of snow most of the way from Drift Point. At 2.15
a. m. reached place on coaot directly opposite the flats of Lost River. Having decided to return via tlie
true Gap Valley, \i I could find it, we kept on without stopping. The dark object, noticed to the west from
here in April, soon recognized as a cairn, and soon afterwards espied a small indentation of the coast, which
I knew must be Repulse Harbor. At 2.30 a. m. reached east shore of the harbor, near mouth, and striking
directly across found good traveling over undulating ice and hard snow; reach opposite shore at 2.54 a. m.

At from 2.57 to 4.45 a. m. stopped near cairn. P'ound quite a number of documents at cairn. A chilly
wind blowing I took shorthand copies and left the originals in cairn (a copy of these appended). Con-
tinuing down the coast over an ice-foot covered with good, hard snow, we reached, in fifty minutes, a narrow
gorge, and stopped twenty minutes to make sure it was not Gap Valley. At 7 a. m. reached a wiile, straight
valley, running almost due south and ending in a ravine, plainly seen about 2^ miles distant. Felt confident
that this must be Gap Valley. After getting a little way in, the traveling was found anything but good, the
sledge frequently grating on stones, even where the snow was comparatively deep. At 9.09 a. m. reached the
ravine running south after delays aggregating twenty-five minutes, on account of drag-rope breaking, &:c.
Here we entered a narrow, winding canon. At 11. 13 a. ni. camped in the ravine near its head after several
more deh^'s. My eyes hurt me a good deal. Hardly enough ration;; left for two meals. The dogs
having been on short allowance some time were very ravenous, and even tore open the bag of geological
specimens to see if the stones were good to eat ; 3 a. m. turned in..

Advanced 17 miles in 8 hours, 18 minutes. Traveled i i hours, 19 mmutes.

''il

Thirtf.knth march. Gap Vai.i.ey to [/'i>/i/ns\ Hnxr Camp.

At 11.15 p. m. Brainard arose to cook breakfast. Weather overcast, with wind from south.

May 29. — At 1.55 a. m. left tent standing, and, with Sergeant Brainard, started out to reconnoiter beforri
advancing the sledge. We soon came to a plain (the divide), and, following the shalhnv surface drain, saw
first the high cliffs of Polaris Promontory and then Newman Bay and the neighboring landmarks. Con-
tinued on till we reached a depression running south, which, we could see, changed into a gorge, or ravine, a
short distance aiiead and evidently very soon found its wayto the bay. Leaving Sergeant Urainard I
leturnetl, and getting in sight of Christiansen who had packed up everything in the mean time, I waved to
him, and at 3. 1 1 a. m. he started with the sledge. In thirty-five minutes reached the south side of divide, and
shorUy afterwards made a steep descent on the side of an immense snow-drift. Shortly after this the ravine
narrowed to a gorge, and we encountered several delays in getting over stones and down stee[) snow-drifts.
At the last of these was a wonderful snow-cave, its floor formed by the bed of the gorge. It was upwards
of 100 feet [30'"] long, about 10 feet [3"'] wide, and high enough to walk through upright. Its inside resem-
bled, somewhat, the inside of an immense smokestack, the joints being represented by a ribbed apjiearance
of snow. Stopped here about twenty-five minutes in examining this place and lowering sledge down the
slope by traces. In seven minutes more we reached Newman Bay (5 a. m.). I built a cairn on the edge
of the gorge, about 150 yards [137"'] back from the ice-fool, and started on again at 6.03 a. m. The
traveling across the bay was excellent; a light coat of snow, liard and smooth. The gully just left is the
fourth from Cajje Brevoort; from which, to Gorge Creek, is about two-thirds the distance. Gorge Creek
is the sixth water-cojrse from the cape.

At 8.03 a. m. reached ice-foot near Boat Camp (delaying about ten minutes in crossing Newman Bay),
and five minutes afterwards were at the Boat Camp itself, where we saw the 6-man tent [litched near the
whale-boat, and inside Sergeants Linn, Ralston, and Elison asleep. While we were pitching our tent they
woke up and came out. Sergeant Linn and party arrived here, without event, May 5, their intermediate
camps being; (1) Between Frankfield and Hand Bays; (2) cache No. 2 (near Stanton Gorge) ; (3) Lost River,
near seacoast; (4) on Divide; (5) mouth of Gorge Creek; (6) Boat Camp. Sergeant Jewell, Corporal Salor,
and Private Frederick left on the 7th for Fort Conger. (J>n the nth Dr. Pavy came over with dog-team,

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214

THE LADY FltANKLIX HAY EXPEDITION.

til I I

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bringing some rations, and returning the day following. On the 17th they woke u[) to find that two bears
had paid them a visit during their sleep. The animals came fi-om Newman Hay, ani. ifter meandering
about the camp and going close to the whale-boat, they departed down the straits via e Sumner ; their
tracks were followed thus far. As the party had only a pistt)l, the near approach of th> • bears created a
little sensation. With these exceptions, their monotonous stay of twenty-five days nt lii' IJoiit Camp had
been only broken by the sight of some ptarmigan, a fox, and constant gales of wind, wh- i made it difiu i.it
to secure their tint. The general health of the party was good. After we had all e;u 1 a goo ' breakfast
together I directed Sergeant Linn to make a careful inventory of everything to be leK 1. cache, and then
Sergeant Urainard, Christiansen, and I turned in at i p. iv JJefore lone;, however, liie wind, which ever
blows here, gav; us ' specimen of what the other parfy had expericin'cd, by partially blowmg the ;nt (K tvn,
an(' :\ hand •■•'•e 0. uipied a h;''f-hour or '>iore in securing it with pins, stones, r jpes, iVc.
i'vdvsin. .. ! iu iiks in 4 hours, about. Traveled, 5 hours, 24 minutes.

Fourteenth marcHj [Poi.arisJ Boat Camp to Cape Heechev.

Got up to find u Slewing — and of course blowing — and everything very obscure. 1 had decided to
take everything — except what was to be left in cache — on dog-sledge, and while this bulky and very heavy
load was being packed, &c., we biiilt a large cairn near by. In it I deposited a record. At 11.25 left
camp with whole party (6). (Inventory of everything left, appended.)

Afay 30. — At 12.10 a. m. reached ice-foot at Cape Sumner. Having so many to help we got the heavy
load along the snow-slopes with or.'y a few short delays. Met with a great many little pools of water in
the rubble-ice below, an<l had several shoit delays; otherwise the general character of traveling was the same.
I took the route along shore to the Gap, which we got opposite at 3.30 a. m. At 5.30 a. m. stojiped half-
hour for lunch, the traveling anything but plt;asant, as only the Polaris Promontory c iild be seen, ami this
not distinctly ; wind and snow from the northeast. Took a compass course for Heechey, but inclined too
much to the right and got in a mass of rubble-ice, which gave us a great deal of trouble and vexation of
spirit. However, after a while the west coast loomed up, and by inclining to the south we got out of the
rubble-ice, and at 10.35 ^- "^' reached the tent on the straits, 4j^ miles from shore. Sergeant Linn and party
had had no sleep since my arrival at the Boat Camp ; this, and their long inaction there, made this march very
fatiguing. V'ishing to reach shore, I suggested to Ralston anil Klisr;i to rcniaiii o;rr at the tent and come
in after taking a good rest, but they would not hear of it. After three-fourths hour delay we continued on
and reiched Cape Beechey at 1.^0 p. m. The day's march was a hard one, and could not have been much
short of 30 miles. At 3.40 p. m. all turned in, in the 6-man tent.

Advanced 25 miles in i2j^ hours, .about. Traveled 13 hours, 55 minutes.

Fifteenth march, Cape Beechey to Depot A [Cape Murchison],

Miiy 31. — At 2.30 a. m. called cook (Sergeant Elison), who cooked some tea, which, with crackers, was
ad we had. Ac 4 a. m. breakfast. Beautiful morning; clear and calm. Sergeant Ralston much used up
with stiff joints ; his eyes, also, quite painful. Elison also under the weather. Shortly after breakfast 1 sent
Sergeant Brainard with Christiansei and team out on the straits to bring in the tent, and some time after-
wards Ralston and Elicon started for the snow house to await my arrival there. Sergeant I'Mison took the
lamps along in order to cook breakfast for us. Dog-sledge returned at 8.14. On its return I deposited in
cache, about 150 yards [137'"] below, the wall tent brought in, a rubber blanket, .and box of medicine. At
9.13 a. m. left with sledge and load, and reached snow house [Depot BJ in two hours. Here I found Privates
Ellis and Whisler, who had come out to look for us, &c. I delayed here 2 hours and 50 minutes, during which
we had a substantial meal, fed the clogs, &'c. At 2.25 p. m. left snow house with some articles put on here in
addition to my load. Ralston, accompanied by P'.llis, proceeded on leisurely some time before my departure.
I overtook them on St. Patrick Bay, going along very slowly. Ralston's snow-blindness was so bad that he
had not opened his eyes since leaving S\mday Bay. Sergeant Linn's eyes were almost as bad ; he held on
to the upstander of the sledge constantly. At 6.40 p. m. reached depot A, and we all put up in the wall
tent here. We all found ourselves suffering more or less with snow-blindness (excepting I-'rederick, l'",llis,
and Christiansen, the Eskimo), and all the opium was speedily used uj) on bandages, At 9.30 p. m. went
to bed.

Advanced 14 miles in C hours and 15 minutes. Traveled 9 hours and 27 minutes.

TUB LADY rP\NKLIX 15AY EXPEDITION.

21 f)

Sixteenth march, Depot A [Cai-e Murchisonj to Fort CoN(iKR.

yune I. — At 6 a, -n. cook aros>'. Private lislcr came along during our sleep, about 2 a. m., but,
there being no place for him to sleep, he contin'u>'l • to the station. IJreakfast at 7 a. m. At 8.10 Sergeants
Ralston and I,inn left for station, led by Serg. 'lii F-lison aiTll KUis. At 9.45 a. m. I left with Sergeant
Rrainard, Christiansen, and dog-sledge. Reach'. Water-course Bay in about an hour, and there met Lieu-
tenant Clreely, whom Whislcr's arrival in advance had informed of our near apjiroach. After about ten
minutes' delay we all continued on together. On reaching the bare rock near Distant (!ape, it being neces-
sary to relash the sledge, Lieutenant Greely and I continued on and reached the station about 1 p. m.
The sledge arrived about an hour later.

Advanced 9 miles in (about) 4 hours. Traveled about 5 hours.

Sergeant Iirainar(P s hller of tra)is)»itt(xl.

KoKI' CONOKR, (IRINNKI.I. LaNI), yuh 4, 1882.

Sir : In ci.. pli;. • with your request, I have the honor to herewith transmit an abstract of uiy sledge
journal, from ^nril .\pril 29, 1882, inclusive.

These V'<^ ; i.r^: i^ icrord of the daily experiences of the sup])orting sletlge party, which I commanded,
until it tur'i '>ai.r rit Cape Hryant, where I joined your sledge.

I have en<' T .;jred to herein record such events as may be of special interest to you, and which will
best describe the jharucter of our labors.

I am very respectfully, your obedient servant,

I). L. Urainari),

Sergeant.
Lieut. J. P. LocKwooD,

U. S. Army, A. S. O.

Sergeant lirainard^ s abstract of sledge journal.

April ■X,, 1882 — In accordance with instructions from Lieutenant Lockwood, I left Foit Conger at 6.20
p. m., with sledging party of ten men, assigned as follows to the Hudson Bay sledges : llaxis. Sergeants
Brainard, Ralston, and Private Whisler; Kane, Sergeants Linn and Klison ; Beaumont, Corporal Salor and
Privates Biederbick and Connell ; Ifali, Privates Henry and Frederick.

The amount hauled by each man, including the weight of the sledges, was about 75 pounds. 'I'he
unfortunate members of the i)arty, who, from physical defects or otherwise, were debarred from i)articipating
in these expeditions, showed their encouragement and appreciation of this work by giving us three heivrty
cheers (with a "tiger"), and by firing a salute as we moveil away from the station. The commanding ofVicer
and Lieutenant Lockwood accompanied us as far as Dutch Island. We found tlvj traveling excellent, and
by 10.55 p. m. we had reached Cape Murchison (depot A), having made but two halts since leaving the
station. The men not feeling at all hungry, turned into their respective bags without preparing supper.
Temperature, —32.0° [ —35.6" C.].

April \. — The cook (Connell) was called at 12.45 p. m., and soon after 2 o'clock we partook of a
substantial meal of stewed corned-beef, hard bread, and tea. The party appears to be in excellent spirits,
although several complain of their inability to sleep last night, owing to the too ihorrugh ventilation of their
sleeping-bags. The sudden change from our well-heated quarters at Fort Conger to a minimum temperature
of —41° [—40.6° C] in tents and sleeping-bags will probably account for the absence of sleep last night.
We increased our loads to 90 jiounds each and resumed our march towards Cape Heechey at 3 p. m. The
traveling across St. Patrick Bay was excellent. Tlie late storm has blown oft" all the snow, leaving a thick,
smooth crust, over which the sledges glided easily. On reaching the north side of the bay we encountered
a fresh northeast wind, accompanied by light snow. When about two miles north of this bay the traveling
became very heavy, in consequence of deej) snow. At Brenta Hay, however, it was somewhat better. We
reached depot B at 8.45 p. m., the party feeling very much fatigued after their tramp through the deep snow.

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216

THE LADY FItANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

Supper was eaten at lo o'clock, and we bc^.m immediately afterwards to prepare the provisions in the depot
for trans|)ortation across Robeson Cliannd to the Greenland coast. Wind increased in velocity at 10-30
]). m. Rice and Jens arrived from the station at 1 1.30, with a sledjje-runner to replace the one broken on
their sledge near Cape Union several days ago. 'remperature, —29.0" {—ii-'f ^'-J-

yl/ri/ c,. — Having completed as nuich of our work as c:oi;ld be accomplished at once, we retired to our
sleejjing-bags at 1 2.30 a. m. Four of the party occupied the small snow house recently constructed, and
eight the large one built last autumn. Lieutenant Lock wood, Sergeant Jewell, and the driver, Christiansen,
arrived with a loaded dog-sledge at 3 o'clock, having left the station at 9 last evening. At 2.30 p. m. dinner
was served to all. Rice and Jens left soon after for Cape irniop, taking with them the large sledge-runner.
The wind has been increasing in velocity, and I am afraid their tri]) may result disastrously. The tin cases
■ were removed from preserved meats, which are now solidly frozen, and other preparations made for the
start. Botli parties left the depot at the same time (8.25 p. m.), and journeyetl up the coast together towards
Caj)e Heechey. 'J'he loads were increased to about 130 pounds per man. Traveling fair.

April 6, — Arrived at Cape lieechey and crossed the ice-foot to tlie tloe at 12.05 a. m. The time occu-
j)ied in traveling over the same route iluring my former trip to this place, with the Knglish 8-inan sledge
and hauling 100 pounds each, was four and one-half hours. The conditions of traveling appear to be about
the same as they were at that time, but our loads are thirty pounds heavier than before ; iience, this would
seem to indicate that the Hudson Hay sledges are to be preferred for this work. Whisler comi)lained of
feeling !" soon after leaving the Cape, but insisted on retaining his jjlace in the drag-ropes, although his
presence was obviously detrimental to the others. He grew rapidly worse, and, as we moved but slowly, I
sent him forward to the wall tent which I had left pitched on the floe last month, and at which Lieutenant
Lockwood now was. A light wind from the northeast, together with the temperature of —49.0" [ — 45.0'^ C.J,
rendered the traveling anything but agreeable to any of us. Camped, at 3.15 a. m., at the wall tent. Sup-
per served at 5.30. The regulated scale of rations for i)arties in the field took effect this morning, and with
rather disagreeable results, which, however, were not wholly unexpected. The allowance of alcohol was
not nearly sufficient to bring the chocolate to the boiling j)oint, and our stew of corned-beef and hard-bread
crumbs was just barely warm. The regulation ///// of fluid was not at all satisfactory, neither is it suflicient
for the tired, hungry, and chilly men who have been laboring and perspiring incessantly for hours in this
temperature.

P. ^f. — Aroused the cook (Ralston) at 5 p. ni., and breakfast was served to us at 7 o'clock. The
cook's duties were made very irksome and painful this morning owing to the low tem])erature and his tender
fingers, which were repeatedly frosted. Henry is complaining of rheumatic pains, and asserts that one of
his knees is sprained and that he cannot proceed farther. Lieutenant Lockwood ordered him to return to
the station, and he accordingly turned back at 8 o'clock. Started with the sledges at 8.25 \\. m. Traveling
fair. Connell, having unfortunately fro/en one of his great toes in the sleeping-bag last night, was urged by
some to go back at once, but, with characteristic pluck, he took his usual place in the <lrag-ropes, although
limping painfully. He hobbled along for some time on his blistered feet in this manner, but was at last
com))elled to fall out and turn back to Fort Conger, Lieutenant Lockwood taking him with the dog-sledge
as far as Cajjc IJeechey. Fresh wind from the northwest, but as it was not directly in our faces we were
inconvenienced very little thereby. We left the main road at 11.25 !'• '"■ '^"'' shaped our course directly
towards Cape Sumner. AMiisler is now cpiite well again.

A/>ri/ 7. — After changing our course we encountered a broad, rolling floe, with very little snow to ob-
struct the sledges, and, taking advantage of tiie opportunity here offered, pusiied forward at a rattling pace
for four miles, when the floe terminated abruptly, and we were floundering almost helplessly about in a tangle
of rubble-ice. To add to our embarrassment the sledges were being continually overturned, and often nearly
buried in deep snow-drifts. After very slow and laborious i)rogress we .it last emerged from this execrable
j)ack, and traveled over a floe which was nearly as smooth as the one first mentioned. 'l"he men all felt
greatly fatigued at 3.45 a. nn, so I de<ide<' to cauij) at that time, selecting for that ])urpose a large berg
which extended promises of protection from the high winds whiih have prevailed all day. Lieutenant
Lockwood arrived in camp with the dog-team at 5 o'clock, and supper was served soon after. All were in
their sleeping-bags at 6.

/'. .)A — The cook arose at 5.10 p. m. and disc overed that the dogs had forced their way into the tent
during the higiu and had stolen the meat intended for our breakfast. While eating our stew of hard bread

Tim LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

217

an<l water (without moat), soon after, many threats were made against the faithful brutes who had unwit-
ting;!)' deprived us of a breakfast. 'I'Linperature, — 27.0 (— 32.8'C. |; brisk wind from the southwest. Started
at 9.55 p. m. The travehng is growing worse, instead of better as we had expected.

Aprils. — The stqrm increased in violence to such an extent that I deemed it imprudent to travel
longer; so, calling a halt, we camped at 12.30 a, m. I selected a position close beside a huge floe-berg, with
high vertical sides, as a very desirable place to locate our tents. The full force of the storm cannot reach
us here. Through some misun<lerstanding on their part, Hiederbick and Salor had been separated from us
during the progress of the storm, and I now began to feel alarmed regarding their safety. Taking one of
the revolvers, to be used as a means of signaling, I started out in search of them, first instructing tliose in
camp to re|)ly to any shots that they might hear, in order that I could find my way back to the tents should
I get bewildered or should my tracks become covered by the blinding drift. Choosing a direction whicli I
thought would leail me across their trail, I followed it by coni|)ass for about a mile, when I found their tracks.
These I followed eagerly for some time, occasionally losing them where they were either blown out of exist-
ence or covered by the drifting snow. At last I found them, but their condition was even more pitiable than
1 had anticipated. They hinl burrowed in a snow-bank, with the aid of a small sheath-knife, and had noth-
ing but a rubber blanket to protect themselves from the chilling winds. I guided them back to camp,
taking with us their sledge. We are greatly concerned about Lieutenant Lockwood, who parted com])any
with us this morning, but there may be no occasion for serious apprehension, as he carried tent and sleejiing-
bag in his e(|uipinent. Supper at 3.45 a. ni. At this time the wind is increasing in velocity, and the air is
so filled with drifting snow as to prevent us from seeing the other tent, which is only a few yards away. We
retired to our sleei)ing-bags at 4.15 a. m. Every one is feeling wretched from the effects of the severe toil
of the day. At 8.45 p. ni. another meal was served to us. As usual, the tea did not boil, and the last drop
of fuel was consumed before the stew had fixirly thrown off its chill. The storm had increased to a gale
during the day and yet rages with undiminished fury, threatening each moment to tear down our tents and
carry them bodily away. There is, evidently, no chance for a move to-day. The temperature is rising.

April 9. — There is no indication at present ( i a. m.) of a subsidence of the storm. Despite the protection
afforded us by the friendly floe-bergs, we were at all times expecting the tent to be torn from its fastenings, but
to our surprise it has bravely stood the great strain to which it has been subjected. It has, I think, become
materially strengthened in consequence of the huge drifts which have formed all about us. Although these
drifts afford greater security to the tent, they are, nevertheless, very inconvenient to us, as they press in the
sides of the tent in such a manner as to render our position both cramped and awkward. The full force of
the storm cannot be felt here in our sheltered position, but, notwithstanding this, the observer estimates the
full velocity at 60 miles per hour [26.8'" per second ' The barometer is slowly rising, and we are hopeful
of good results.

The barometer is now (at 8 p. m.) stationary, and the temperature has risen to +2.0" [—16.7" C.].
Supper was served at 8.05 o'clock. The wind had now abated somewhat, and our spirits rose at the thought
of speedily leaving this miserable place, which has failed to furnish us with one moment of comfort since our
arrival. We have been in our damp bags for about forty-five hours, and during that time we have been sur-
rounded by discomforts that are indescribable, and can be apjjreciated only when one has passe<l through a .
similar experience. At 9 p. m. we again started with our sledges; a brisk wind blowing against our backs
was of material assistance in driving along the sledges, although occasionally upsetting them. We met Lieu-
tenant Lockwood not more than two miles away from camp, with Christiansen and his team. On com-
paring notes we learned that he had reached Cape Sumner about the time the storm began, on the evening
of the 7th, and that he had hastily built a snow house for himself and Christiansen, under the face of the
cliffs overlooking Newman Bay, and had remained there until this morning. He went back to bring up the
loatl which he abandoned on the floe at our second camp southwest from here. The sun dipped nearly to
the horizon at midnight; then, lising again slowly, began its circuit aljout in the heavens. This is the first
time this year that the sun has been above the horizon at midnight in this latitude.

April 10. — We reached Cape Sumner at 4.30 a. m., and the boat camp of the Polaris expedition, on the
southern sliore of Newman IJay, at 7 o'clock. The snow-slopes between the cape and this camp were very
abrupt and difficult to pass over. The party uas nearly exhausted on entering camp, but were in good
spirits. The .sledges were in rather a dilapidated condition in consetjuence of their encounters with the
sm.dl i)ieces of rubble-ice. Bfiuiiiuyiit, especially, is badly broken ; its bow is crushed in such a manner as to
render it entirely useless for all further work in rough ice. It Could, however, be used for a few days on

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218

THE LADY FKAXKLIN BAY FA'PEDITION.

smooth ice, or in ilecp snow. Our camp is in a windy ])lace, near the mouth of a large ravine, down which
the wind ruslies in gusts and whirls with such velocity as to occasionally upset the tent. In the melee of
till- cknionts the ridge -pole of our tent was broken and everything thrown into confusion. I discovered
llie tent left by the /'>/iiris party, at the entrance to a small ravine not far from our camp, 'i'hcir boat is
lying bottom u|) in our immediate vicinity. The tent was blown down and contained nothing but a few
rounds of rille anuiumition, old clothi's, tin ware, boots, itc.

IJrcakfast was served to us at lo a. m., and immediately afterward we crawled into our comfortless
sleeping bags for a few hours' rest, feeling in our minds that the tent was perfectly secure. Our slumbers
were rudely disturbed at 5 p. m. by one of the violent whirlwinds, which again broke the ridge-pole of our
tent and brought the lanvas down on the sleeping forms inside. We endeavored to repair the damage, but
in vain ; the fury of the storm would not again jjcrmit us to erect the tent. The alternative left us was to
build a snow hou^e in the huge snow-slopes near by. This was comi>leted at n.15 j). m. 'I'hc work of
excavating the sno>v-bank was not iiccomplished without great hardships and disagreeable results. The
storm raged worse than at any previous time, the flying snow completely blinding those who were working
on the outside entrance and forcing them to abandon their work at intervals. An attem()t had been made
to cook su|)per in the wreck of our tent, but in the confusion the lamp was overturned and our ration of
alcohol lost. As no allowance is made for wasted fuel we consoled ourselves for the loss of a warm meal
ly partaking of a lunch of frozen meat and hard bread.

A/ri/ 1 1. — Creat difficulty was experienced in transferring our effects from the tent to the snow house.
Slec|)ing-bags, rubber blankets, cooking apparatus, and other camp paraphernalia were wrenched away from
the strongest men and carried rapidly along the ground by the wind towards the ice-foot, being jxirsueil by
a crowd of anxious men who realized that their comfort and perhaps their safety depended upon the reten-
tion of these articles. A few articles of tin-w.arc of minor importance were the only things lost; the others
were rescued at the ice-foot three hundred yards [274"') from the tent. An ordinary .■\ tent, used by Sergeant
I. inn and his three companions, was torn from its fiistenings and carried away bodily by the wind. Several of
the large iron pins were drawn from the fro/en earth, and great seams were opened in the lower edge of the
canvas. The occupants were shnnbering i)eacefully in their bags when the shock came, and, standing at a
distance, we saw the tent when it began its pilgrimage across the country. Before the confusion had subsided
their heads began ])0[)ping up from the depths •f their sleeping-bags, and the look of consternation depicted
on their faces, while their eyes were turned /ougi^t;/)' in the direction of the rapidly retreating tent, was most
ludicrous. It now became their turn to dig a snow house from the bank near the clitTs.

Breakfast was served in our new quarters at 3 a. m. The tea was weak and the stew of lime-juice
])emnii(an was cold and unpalatable; consefjuently it was rejected by all except one (Whisler). This is
rather consoling lo us, having fasted for nearly twenty hours, during which time we have been performing
severe labor in keen, bracing, outside ai"-, and are very hungry.
In sleei)ing-bags again at 3.30 a. m.; the wind still high.

.\t 7 p. ni. Wiiisler is com|)laining with soreness and severe |)ains in his chest and is also spitting blood.
Biederbick has done all in his power to alleviate his sufferings with our slender stock of medicines, but his
condition is still precarious. He fainted as soon .is he came in contact with the cold outside air, but he
recovered in a few minutes and crawled b.ick into the hut. Bieilerbick is also in a critical state. I found
him lying on the dog-sleilge near the entrance to the hut, vomiting and apparently in great pain. All were
similarly affected with the exce|)tion of fainting. These conditions are probably due to improper ventilation,
an<l the absence of oxygen in the snow house. The cooking-lamp refused to burn, and the matches died
out immediately after being ignited, although free from dampness. The sleeping-bags were so damp and
cold that none of us could obtain the sleep or rest which we so greatly desired. The wind apjjcars to be
gradually dying away.

April 12. — Lieutenant Lockwood directed Biederbick and Whisler to return to Fort Conger for medical
treatment. The former begged hard to be allowed to .accompany us, but the necessity of his immediate return
to the station w.is obvious to all. The storm has subsided somewhat, but a brisk wind is still blowing. The
men feel weak from their ex])erience of last evening, and become exhausted after the most moderate exertion.
At 12.15 a. m. we left with the sledges, en route to the (lap for provisions, the sick men accompanying
us as far as Cape Sumner, where our roads diverged. Lieutenant Lockwood soon foUoweil us with the dog-
sledge. We returned to camp at 4.30 p. m. ; Lieutenant Lockwood arrived at 6.15 o'clock. Not desiring
a repetition of yesterday's experiences in the snow house we had again pitched the tent and loaded down

TIIK LADY FIIANKMN HAY KXIMCDITION.

219

the corners with rocks aii<l j;r.ivi'l, in addition to the strong; lariats whicli form a. network over tlie lo|) anil
sides. The wind haviii); fallen soniuwiiat a good iiij;ht's rest was proniised us, without fear of haviiij; the
tent knocked down over our iieads. Sujiper was served at 8.30, and at 10 p. ni. we turned into our sleeping-
l)ags, twenty-eight hours having elapsed since we left them last night to prejiare for tlie trip to tlie Ciap.

////// 13. — I called the ( ook at 5 a, ni., and lireakfast was announced at 7. It was a great relief to us
to get up this morning, as none had been able to sleej) owing to the frozen state of our sleeping-bags. .So
far as comfort was concerned we might just as well have been iniased in iron lings as in those we oi cupied.
The alhuiance of alcohol w.is not salisf.ictory at all for the morning's meal. The stew was <old, and an
occasional lump of ice was broii; ht up from the bottom of the dish to remind us that we could not expec t
the comforts of a civili/ed life in these regions. I.ieutvn.mt l.ockwood left willi the(h)g-team at i2..\e, \). 111. for
I'ort Conger, for the purpose of exchanging the unserviceable sledge-runners now in use on the dog sledge
for another .ind stronger pair. I left for Cajie Sumner with the jiarty, hauling Hudson Hay sledges, at 1 2.45
!>. m., to transport the provisions cache<l at that |ioint to our camp at this place. l'',ach sledge hauled two
loads, the last being completed at .|. o'cloc k. We exposed our sleeping-bags and damp clothing to the sun
and wind to-day, in order that their excessive moisture might, in a measure, be evaporated. The cook called
us to Slipper at 7.30 p. m., and at 10 o'clock we retired to our bags,

/l/iri/ 14. — The wind again rose during the night, and, ns before, our slimibers were abru])tly disturbed
by the ridge-pole of the tent breaking and falling u]ion us. We made temporary repairs, but did not attempt
to sleep again for fear of a similar accident. Ikeakfast was served at 7.30 a. m., and was greatly enjoyed,
owing to the satisfactory result produced by the ration;. '«f fuel. I left camp with the party at 9 a. m. for
the (lap, taking two Hudson liay sledges, with which to haul u,. 'he remainder of the supjilies left by us at
that place. Klison was instructed to remain in camp to expose and ci.v the slee])ing-bags, and to look after
matters generally during our absence. Soon after rounding Cape Sumne i southwest g ;le was encountered,
which was so strong as to almost render our advance impossible. We wet '. fre(piently lorced backward, and
dozens of times we were brought to a dead halt. U'e soon discovered tint the only manner in which we
could travel at all was to bend the body forward until it was nearly horizontal and then jiush forward witli
all our strength and energy. Huge rocks, started from the precipitous cliffs by the wind and slight thaws,
came crashing down on the ice-foot in our immediate vicinity, greatly endangering our lives and warning us
that traveling in close proximity to the shore was altogether too dangerous to be persisted m.

At 12.30 ]). m. we reached the cache, and started on our return at i o'clock. Our greatest difl'iculty
now was to avoid the sledges, which were fretpiently driven on our heads by the wind when passing over
the surface of a smooth floe. While j)assing one of the numerous ravines in Polaris Promontory we dis-
covered a beautiful snow cascade, which we at first mistook for a small volume of water. It was formed by
the wind, which, rushing down a narrow, rocky cut in the face of the abrupt cliffs, carried with it a small
volume of snow, which, leajiing from rock to rock in its descent, reminded me of the beautiful silver cascades
which I have seen in the National Park of the Yellowstone. Reached camp at 5.15 p. m. Klison reports
that high winds have prevailed all day in camp, and that his patience as well as his jjowers ot tr.durance
were sorely tried in endeavoring to prevent the tents and sleeping-bags from blowing away. The bags were
torn from the rocks which had been placed on their corners and sides to hold them down, and were rolled
away to the ice-foot, where they were finally rescued by this indefatigable individual. Supper was eaten at
7.30, and within the next half-hour all were (piictly slumbering in their bags.

y1/>n/ 15.— We were called to breakfast at 9.30 a. m. As there are no provisions to be hauled from
the Cap we remained in camp all day, preparing rations for our trij) to the northward. Among other
things done to-day, the tin cases were removed from the preserved meats, alcohol cans were filled, and the
hard bread put in small bags, each bag representing a certain number of rations for the entire party. At
7.15 ]). ni., and only a f w nnr.uiMs after v.e had finished supper, Lieutenant l.ockwood returned Irom l''ort
C^onger with the entire [KAt .)! ruiniers. li.' also brought a few articles of wearing apparel which our friends
were thoughtful enough to send. A v'y oigh southerly wind has been blowing all day. We received
several letters from lu; friends at Fort t o" ;,or, per the Arctic mail. Retired at 9.20 p. m.

yl/nV 16. — Tl.(. ( ')ok was calKd .:l ^30 a. m., and breakfast was finished at 8.15. High winds pre-
vailed .all night; otca-.ionally a whidwinu vvas introduced, by way of varii ty, which caused great ajiprehension
regarding the safety of our teni. Immediately after breakfast I turned out all hands to repair the sledges.
Jiiaiimoiit was found to be hojielessly b'oken ; Kant- was also rejected as unserviceable. Hall is still in good
condition, and, with a \:w repairs, Ifayc will yet do excellent service. The extra runners which Lieutenant

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220

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Lockwood brougiit from Fort Conger, were fitted with cross ties or slats and named the Nan-s. At 3.30
p. r.i dinner was served to us by the indefatigable cook, and immediately afterwards the work of packing
the sledges began. All tents, sleeping bags, and provisions not absolutely required for the journey were
packed carefully p.way in the Polaris whale-boat for our return.

A light lunch was serv^.l at 9.15 p. ni, ; the tents were then taken down and placed on the sledges, and
at 12.24 we started. We shajied our course diagonally across Newman Hay towards the small opening in
tlie hills which we have decided is (jap Valley, the sledges in the following order : Lieutenant Lockwood,
with Christiansen and dog-sledge .•///A'/«(7'/ir' ,• Sergeants Brainard and Ralston and Corporal Salor, sledge
Xiiiri:, with about 220 pounds each; Sergeant Jewell and Private Frederick, sledge Hall, 150 pounds
each; Sergeants Linn and Elison, sledge Hayes, with 150 pounds each. The traveling is excellent.

April 1 7. — The temperature fell to — 9 | — 22.8" C. ] at midnight. At 3 a. m. N^airs dragged so heavily
over the small drifts that it became necessarv to employ Linn and I'Viison in the drag-ropes in order to
advance it at all. This left only Jewell an.! Frederick to advance alternately the other two sledges until we
should return to tiieir relief. Lieutenant Lockwood, having preceded us to the entrance of the valley with
the dog-team, now returned with it to our assistance. At 6.30 a. ni. we reached the entrance to the vall-.-y
and at once prepared to make ourselves comfortable for the night. Retiied at 9.30, having been out of
the bags for twenty-six hours. The cook was awakened at 6.30 p. m. Breakfasted on lime-juice pemniican,
hanl bread, and tea. We had an excellent night's rest, probably the most refreshing and satisfactory that
we have experienced s'-ice leaving Fort Conger. Calm, light snow falling, and the temperature, —3
[-19.40 C.].

Left camp with N'arcs at 10.15, having five men in the drag-ropes. Hall followed closely with two
inen. Hayes was left standing in camp to be returned for later. The traveling was heavy, and great
<iuantities of gravel were occasionally met with, which would re(piire standing pulls. At one point the
valley became quite narrow and the cliffs on either side very high and nearly vertical. From this place we
returned for Hayes, meeiing the two men with Hall, struggling along slowly and laboriously through the
dirty and sandlike snow. This method of alternately advancing the sledges was continued all day with
particularly favorable results. Snow ceased falling at 11.30 p. m.

April 18. — At 3.30 a. m. we met Christiansen, who was returning by the direction of Lieutenant
Lockwood to our old camp for the remainder of his load. He brought a note to me from the lieutenant
which stated that he had advanced for four hours, that the traveling was very heavy, and that he was of the
opinion that the diviile was not far away. I called a halt at 6.30 r m. and made camp under the shelter-
ing point of a ledge of rocks, where we were, in a measure, i)rote(:led from the <Iirect force of the winds.
High, northeast wind which drifts heavily. Everyone is very tired. 'I'iie highly arduous duties of cook
fell to my lot this morning, and I at once distinguished myself by burning the stew. 'J'he cook is the only
one who is compelled to remain out in the cold; the others re|)air to their slcejiing-bags as soon as the tent
is pitched and banked, thus |ireventing any uii'.'.'cessary exposure. When the meal is ready, (he men are
aroused I)y the cook who hands each one his cup of tea or chocolate and his i)late of hash. They always
sit upright in the sleejjing-bag w.ih the lower extremities covered vi ,iile i)artaking of their meals.

Temperature remains about stationary at — lo.o" 1—23.3° ^-l-

J\ M- — Left cam|) at 10.35, f'''^l advancing Nares, with the entire i)arty in the drag-ropes. The (jther
sledges were tiien advanced for a considerable distance, when we again returned for Nans, which was
advanced alternately with the .smaller sledges, as yesterday. The traveling is much worse than at the point
of entrance to the valley; the snow is much deeper in places, and great patches of bare ground are often
encoiuitered, over which our sledges must be hauled at a great exjiendilure of human power and energy. A
strong southerly wind blows di.ectly in our faces when we return for the rear sledges, and the snow, falling
in small, round pellets, ranles against our benumbeci faces like pigeon-shot, causing a smarting and i)ainful
sensation, which does not tend to i-'ijirove our temi)ers, already sorely tried.

Apriil 19. — Lieutenant Lockwood's camp of yesterday was passeil at 2.45 a, ni. with the two small
sledges, and Nares was brought to the same spot at 4 o'clock. I fnul that wx- have been thirteen and one-
half hoiMS in traveling over the .same route which Lieutenant Lockwood traveled with the dog-team in
only four hours. The traveling has improve<l somewhat, but it is still fir from what we should like. A crust
covers the surface of the snow, which is neither strong enough to bear our weight when hauling, nor weak
enough to break easily at the appro;;ch of the sledge-.nmners. Camped at fi. 35 a. m. on a large drift in the

THE LADY FJIANKLIN I5AY KM'KDITION.

221

river-Iicd. T-iglit, southeast wind, ami tuiiipeialuie of —13.0" [ — 25.0° C.J at tlic time. Snow ceased falling
at 8 o'lloek- hum, who olViciated as cok this morning, served us with a meal of raw peunuiean, hard
bread, and tea. Owing to the preseiu e of the sharp, acrid, and uni)alalal)le limes in the pennuiean we fmd
it utterly iniijossihl J to make use of it in any manner excei)t in its raw state. When prei)ared in the form
of ^, stew tiie vile nature of the limes ( oiilained in this ])emmican is so pronounced that it is rejected l)y all.
Several complain tluit their mouths ha\e been made sore by eating this incongruous comj)ound.

/'. .1/. — Breakfast was finished at 8.30 o'clock. Snow had fallen iluring the time that we were sleeping,
and continued to fall moderately all day. Calm; temperature, - 14.0° [— 25.6° t'.J; minimum recorded,
— 15.0" [— 26.1" C.]. Several complain that they were unable to sleep last night owing to the damp
and fro/.en stale of the sleeping-bags. Mefore entering, it reipiired the united strength of three men to
unroll them, and then we could 01, ly gel U) their lower extremity by thawing them with the warmth from
our bodies.

Started at 9.30 p. m. and moved the sledges forward alternately as before. 'The snow was very deep,
and the sleilges dragged their slats on tiie drifts almost continuously. We have occasionally found the valley
so narrow that the tops of tiie cliffs nearly meet over our heads while passing between them. At a. point
where the canon diverged we found a small cairn erected by Lieutenant Lockwixjd to indicate to us the
direction which he had taken. We are evidently quite near the divide now, as our barometer denotes that
our altitude is considerable.

/i/<n7 20. — There is evidently some mistake about the length of Ciai) Valley being only ten miles, as
we have already traveled more than that distance now, and have only just reached the ilivide or water-
shed at this hour (2 a. m.). Passing over the summit we traveled down a gently rolling alupc for two miles
and entered the ravine or valley leading lo th" coast. The Uaveling is superior to any that we have had
since entering the valley. Made camp at 5.30. Jewell shoulil have been cook, but as he ajipeared very
nuu;h exhausted, and com|)lained of sore feet, I relieved him from the uniileasant task and detailed Klison
instead. Temperature at 6 a. m., —19.5° [—28.6° C.J. (Jeased snowing at 8 o'clock.

P, M. — Called the cook at 6.30, and breakfast was eaten at 8 o'clock. About this time Lieutenant
T ;/ckwood arrived from his cani[), which is about five miles from this point and seven from the coast. We
have yet twelve miles to travel before we can leave this execrable valley behind us. Lieutenant Lockwood
left us at 10.30, taking a large load with the dog-team from one of our sledges, which will enable us to
proceed without the necessity of doubling. Teni[)erature at 1 1 o'clock, —39.5° [ — 39.7° ('.J. Mininnim
reconled, —40.0° [—40.0° C.J. Started at 11.15 !'• 'H-i 'i"'l »i"ved the three sledges forward at one time
without doubling. It is generally conceded that this is not (lap Valley.

April 2\. — AVe traveled cpiite rapidly and succeeded in reaching Lieutenant Lockwooil's camp at 4.45
a. m., where we remained for a few minutes only, then again proceeded on our way. The valley, which here-
tofore had been a very narrow, rc;ky, and tortuous one, now expanded into a broad and undulating plain,
about five miles in length by three in width, and shut in on all sides by high, rugged nunmtains. On fust
entering this valley the traveling was good, the slight drifts running at right angles to our course facilitated
rather than retarded our movements, but the last half of the ilistance was accom|)lished oidy with the severest
labor, on account of the gravel beds from which the snow had been swe|)t clean. l'"re([uently we were
compelled to resort to standing pulls, and occasionally all the men were recpiired on the large sledge.
Wind from the northeast has been blowing for some time with a velocity of eighteen to twenty miles per
hour [8.0 to 8.9"' per second.j. At 8.30 a. m. we made camp at the lower extremity of the valley, having
traveled 9)3 hours, 'I'hc cook, Salor, served supper at 11.45 a. m. J''^' temperatme at that time was
—6.0" [—21.1° C.J, a change of 34" [18.9° C.J in twelve hours. Everybody is very tired this morning, and
hungry as well. (The latter condition is chronic.)

P. M. — Lieutenant Lockwood reached our camp this evening wliile we were partaking of breakfast,
about 8.45 o'clock. He remained with us, sending Christiansen back for the remainder of his load. We
will again take the load advanced by Lockwood this morning, it being the same that he relieveil us of
yeslertlay. The high northeast wind continues. Temi)erature, —7.0' [ — 21.7" C.J. Left camp at 11.15 with
Narcs and one of the small sledges, Lieutenant Lockwood assisting in the drag-ropes for a short distance.
The creek bed becoming im|>assable made it necessary for us to drag our sledges over the execrable snow-
slopes. After a great ileal of hard work this was accomplished, and all tl -• sledges were then advanced
together. IJy this time the wind had increased in velocity to a moderate gale, and the Hying snow, driving

f !

' IJ #

1 1

I ;

(I-

oo')

TlIK LADY FUANKlilN IJAY liXI'KDITlON.

iliri'i lly ill our I'mi I's willi li'iiiCic Cdii i', iviitli'li-'d pronR'ss ;ilmusl iiii|H)ssilili'. Wc sliiin^ltd mIoiih slowly,
liowi'vi'v, tor M short (iislMiiif wlicii ;iii ill nil j! Iiirii in tlu' v.ilky iMoiif;lit our li.uks to tlif wind, ,iiid tliin
wo tli'w ;llon^ on tlu' sinootli siiilMit' with ;ilniost iiK rcdihlc s|)i.'i'd.

.///// .'>•. — Tlu' j;;ilc' h;id Mssunicd siu h iiroporlioiis :is to riiisc siTious approhfiisions for our sal'i'ty ; the
l■l^ud of llyilif; snow would not piiuiit us to si'o tlu' \ aliiy lor niori' lli.in tifty yards | |(i"' | in atUain i', and we
kipt our (oursf only liy liiliii}; our way aloii}; tlu' inai>;iii tl ihc it c in tiu' i riok lu'd, At ^45 •'• '"■ "*-'
wen- highly gratitii'il by riMi liing tlu- i(H' loot on the loasi in ilu' vicinity of ki'iiulsi.' jlarlior. Tlu' snow

up anain wiili tlir sIimI^i's.

Ill-Ill;; \ I'ry ilv'i'|

) and soft alonu tho icc loot it

iL'iaiiK' iK'Ci'ssary ti> itoul)

As till' storm showed no si^;ns of aliatiiig, and as the iiii'ii wi're woll iii!;li i-xhaiisU'd, I dci idod to < amp al
(i.;,c) a. 111. on tiic k'r side ol a larj^c Hoc Ik-ij;, which 1 coiisidcii'il im|ioilant in protci tin^; us from tlu- lilmd-

drift. At 7. JO the lic-utcnant avrivi'd with his sk-dj

(.> Iiaulv lirokcn and camped m (uir imiiu-i

liali

\ ICIIIII

or uioic III. Ill two iioi

lis wf slnij^gk-d with llu- l>-nl before we < oiild m'l 11 fastened down to our

satisfai tioii ; it was co\eieil with an intricate network of lariats and lashing lines to iire\enl il Iroiii bal-
looning and blowing away. Si'\eiai host -bites ix ciiried w hik- this work was being dcute. Supper w. is
ser\eil at 10. 11; a. 111. and minu-iliately afterward wetiawled into our siet-ping bags with our wet clolhing
clinging about our sliiveiing lorins. The heat emanaliiig Irom our bodies is always utilized at night in
di\iiig our damp garments, Tiie tent is being badly shaken . and threatens to take llight in the imreasmg

storm.

/'. .1/. — 'I'lie cook announced breakfast at 10.15. The slonii continues with unabated violence, and

■lu(k-s am tiicuights of a move Irom lu-

re to d.iv. Tl

le snow forming in drifts ag.iilisl the sides of the

teiil has caused tlu d to iiearh meet, thus pri-\entiiig us from exteiuling 0111 limbs tolheii full length. The
\i-loiity of the storm is estini.ited at lorty miles per hour |i7.i>"' per secondj. Teinpi-rature, -<-iS.o'

l--.Krt'.|.

.Ipri/ i\. — At 1 a. iii. the storm li.id ab.ited suiruieiitly to en.ible lis to make preparations to resume
our joiiriu-y. The lull in the sioiiii was almost imnu-dialely followed by .i heav) tall of snow, which, how

evi'i, ( I'.ised a

t 6 a. III. .\ small < .liiii was constructed on llu- hillside above our camp, in which w.i

IS 1 ai licit

u- sledges 111 the usiia

I Old

el.

a lew rations for our icluiii to llu- Ho. it ('am|i. We sl.iited al 11.15 with I
I .ieuteiiaiit {.ockwood o\i-rtook us in a short time and desired to excliangi.- Ins broken sledge runnels lor
those on .ViiiiS, linder the shelter of the high ice wall the change was soon effected, and we again resumed
our journey.

.\llei passing hrift I'oiiit wi- encountered the much die.ided snow slopes so vividly described b\ lieaii-
mont. lie had lert.iinly made no e\aggi-i.iiion in his aicoiml of the dilfu ully experieiiced in siirmouiiliiig
llu III. ( >iu e we liied skdging on the line, but on ai 1 ouni o| the rugged ch.iiai lei of the ice wi- wen- forced
to lesiniu- our original course o\er the slopes. The piepondei.liii i- lA the load n.ilui.illy l.illing on the lowi-r
runner of the sledgi- (wliiili iinloilnii.ilel)' was the ileli-ili\e one oblained tioiii Lieutenant l.ockwood this
morning), it was in a short time a total wreck. Il was immedi.ilel\ ab.indoiud, .mil the lo.id pl.iced on the
two lludson liay sk-dj es lashed logellier lor the purpose. The great lesisi.iiiie ollered b)' the broad sin
laces of these sledges would iiol periiul of their being hauled by the entile Ion e (seven ineli), so we advanced
the loads singly and 111. Ilk- double liiiis. Made camp on llu- line al llu- west end of 111, 11 k I loin ('litis .it
.;. m p. 111. While the cooks were prejiaring supper the rem. under of the p.iil) cut a loa.d ihroiigh the hinge
ol shore hiiiiimocks for to niorrow's si irt. Oui supper (oin|)rised musk ox ine.it (raw and ho/en), a slew

I be, Ills, anil h.ud bie.id and choci

ale. Triiipeiatuie, -f I !•

' lo.o I

f'lesl

I sonilii-.isi w nil

■II,

,lio has occupied .1 plai e m my tent since le.iving Newm.in l!,i\, leluiiicil In Luiilen.inl l.oikwiiod's tent

tins i-\eiiiii

.■//■/// J |. — I 1 .1 lied the I 00k ,il | a. 111. .\ strong w ind has been sweeping dow n o\ei tin now .--lopes
to our impiolei led tent all niglil. Its velocity was eslim.ited a I eighteen to tweiits Iw o niik-- [ii-r hum |.S.i) lo

I li.dl ol our eflecls; the rcii

i)..S"' pel secoiiil|. .Starling al 7,50 a, 111. we advanced with onl) aboul li.ill ol ourellecls; tlie rem. under w.is
tl- be bi ought up l.ilei. ( 111 the w hole, the lra\ cling is beller ill, in we li.id expei t' d ; si ill, the ice .it this pl.u e
is far from w hat we w isli it lo be. .St-vei.il l.iige paleocryslic I'oes .ire ol the greatest impoil.iiu e in expediling
our inogiess with these lie.ivy loads. The spaces inter\'eiiiiig between (hem is lilleil with nibble, which lie-
ipienlK upsi-ls the sledges, producing ,1 burst ol iighleoiis indigiialion from llie Uiiloiiuii.ite one whose lliiii
it is to go b.ick and jilace it right side up ag.iin. W'l- h.illeil at ii.j

o a. III. on the lloe

about half ,1 mile

from the line of cliffs, and, deposiiiiig our loads, retuiiied for the lemaiiider. I .leiilen iiit I .ockwood assigned
me to tiu dog-ic.im during the .ilteinoon wink- he went up the coast to se.iii h lor lieauinoiil's cache al

TIIK I.ADY KltANKLlN HAY HXIM^DITIOM.

223

StiiiUon (iolm'. Wo iilUTw.inls liiinsrcrred cvrytliinn to a point luanT the slioif, wIutc wi- 1 amiitd at 6.30
|t. Ml. Ili};li "ii"l ''-'^ ''^'''" l'l"wiiiK :i" ''">■• '"'^' ti'in|K'iatuii' lias hi'i-ii siilfu iciitly liiuli to null llic snow
on llu- (lark siniacc of tlu' Hoc, l)Ut l)ctoiv ivliring lliis ovi-ning llii; ti'niiiciatinv had talk'ii a^ain ; the llicr-
Mioini:ti.T indicated +1 1.0" [— 1 1.7' ('. J. Supper at .S.30. In slccping-bans at y o't loi k. Snow lalhnK at
dial tiuif.

.7/I//V -'5. — The cook aix>sf at i a. ni. and Ijfuakfasl was announied at (> o'clork. We started at S.

Clirisliansen, coniphiininn ol' ilhiess, was caiiied on the sledne

1 assisted l.ieiitenant l.oikwoud «ilh th

team while I. inn liiouuhl iij) the Hudson l!ay sle(l^;es with the remainder ol the party. I'he illness of
Cinistiansen, our failhtul driver, rendered it imperative lor us to camp soon alter leaving; the lloi'. This we
did at the enlraiu e to a lari^e ravine, southwest, about two miles from Stanton Ciorye. One ol Our lints was
I'rerted at oik e and the sick man tenderly tared Cor. The best sleeping liag was given him aiui a hlieral
(|uanlily of hot hrandy prcserilied. We soon heard tiie sound of deep and prolonged snoring issuing Irom the
tent, and ioik hided that our remedy was elVieaeiousaiid that his (cindilion must he impidving. Two more
trips with tiie dogs were made to our old (amp. the last load lieing lirought in at 2..\^ p. m. Ralslon and
lewell were diie( ted l>y l,ieutenant l,o( kwood lo proeeed up the <()asl in sean h of l.ieiiUnant I'leaumont's
eat 111'. They relumed at ij.jo p. in. in high sjiirits, hringiiig with them a can of rum wliii h was loimd in
the I ai he with other articles. The depot is in good (ondilioii, and, as far as they traveled along tiie loasl,
the condition of the road is ahove the average. Tracks of hare, foxes, lemming, and iitannigan are repoi leil
l>y them as being numerous along the ice-foot. I took an inventory of our provisions this evening. The

result alloids universal satislaction. ('aim, clear weather. Temperature at 7 p

••!3-'J

.///// 2(1. — 1 (ailed the (ook at 2 a. in., and breakfast was eaten .it .}.,?,S' ^^'*' coiistriu led a large (aim,
in which were plai cd provisions for our return, together with all articles of ilolhing and e(|uipinent not aliso
lutely essseiilial to the (ompletion of our journey. Temperature at (> a. in., — .'.o j — i.S.(/' C.j: maiimum
recorded, — I. |.o" 1 — 25.6 |. Christiansen .says liial he has entirely recovered from liis illness, and tiial he
considers hot brandy the fust of all remedies. I'lverything being in readiness we started <>.\o a. m., reat hmg
.Sianton (lorge at <S..>o, where we were detained for some time in securing the cache and rebuilding llu' i .lini,
in whiili I.ockwood iilaced a re(()r(l of our journey.

At I I a. 111. we rounded C'ape Stanton and eiKced Hand Itay. We Ibiind the traveling to be e\( client
on this bay, and at 1 .jo p. in. we

had

1 bed t

le K

e loot on the northern side. Lieutenant l.oi kwnod o\cr

took us at J o'clock, and lea\iiig his load turned back with the dog team to bring up llie rem.iinder lell at
Stanton Clorge. Christiansen, still feeling weak from tl.e elTects of yesterday's illness, went w ilh my jiarty
to camp, while Kalston took his place as driver of the dogteam. On aiii\ing at the point of land whi( h
embraces I'ranklield Hay (Ui the west went into (amp (,5. .15 p. m

.\(ler

pit( hing the lent we reluin

to bring up the load left by I. (k kwood near Hand May. I lell the oiok in (amp to prepare supper diirii
our absence. At 6.45 we relumed with the loads, having been in the drag ro|ies lor twelve hours, and
that time we have performed the hardest work that we have ever

•t b

leell called upon Ic do

Supper at 7.,?0- "i^-" ration of alcohol lor fuel did not sullic e to prep. ire cun meal prupeily. Tiie c hoc-
olate was not brought to the lioiling poiiil, and the slew, when eaten, was apjiaii iiti) down to /ero | — 1 7.1S 'C.|.
I.ieulenant I.ockwood and K.dston arrived at 8.15. A ((uarter of an hour liter and we had retired lo our
bags. Temperature, —15.0 |— 26. r (', |.

///;■/'/ .'7. — 1 (ailed the ( ook at .\.2o a. m,,an(l at 6.30 we had rinished incakfast. Fresh, westerly wind;

-.M.5"|-,VX.S'C.|.
died lor bie.ilvlasl, li

■> .i|)

e siidcleii c ii.inge in

dear weather, and temperature at S.^^o, — 17.0" | — i^.i" C.| ; minimum ii( urdi d,
few of the party laii boast of li.uiiig slept last night, and this morning, wiuii i
peaied as weary and hea\y-e)((l as yesterday evening after the long 111. nch. Th
we.ilher has fro/en our sieeiimg bags as still as bo.ucls, and a tliic k coating of Irosi having lormed inside dumig
tiie day they were about as w.irm and comfortable when liiey were uiiii>lli(l ,it night as a uliigei.ilm would
li.ive been. A ca( lie of provisions was made on Itreakwaler I'oini suliic ieiit to enable us lo icliiin lo Ke

lour brougiil lis lo

pulse

llaii

lor, alter w

hid

1 we resumed our course up ilie (oasl.

.'\ tr.ini

p of ha

l''raiikfiel(l l!ay at (j o'c ioc k, and alter a steady mau h of one hour's duration \\c leai hed liie o

At this |)()int we ascended a sik ( essioii of

iposite shoie.

lopes, whic h wcie nut ( rossed without gieat dillii iilly .11

Ireiiuent oMiliuiiillgs of the sledges. We passed many small bays and indeiilalions, whidi l.ieulenani lieau-
nionl evideiiliy did not consider of sullic ieiil impiirlailce I

o honor u illi iianu"

laps of liie I'.nglish,

luiuever, are niodeis of aic iiracy and beauty, every important point, mounl.iiii, and indenl.ilion being fault-
lessly delineated.

\i \

¥i

I :<

224

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

At 7.40 i>. m. wc readied Cape IJryant and went into camp at once. We bad been traveling for eleven
hours and ten minutes, and were very tired from the effects of the severe strain. The traveling was fair,
Lieutenant Lockwood arrived at 8.30 witli the dog-team and a portion of his load. The remainder was left
back near Frankfield Hay, where he will send for it later. Temperature at the hour of entering camp was
— 15.0" f — 26.i"C.]. A fresh southwest wind was blowing at the time, and the i'mgers of Frederick were
baiUy frost-bitten in endeavoring to lash the broken ridge-pole of our tent.

Lieutenant Lockwood shot five ptarmigan this evening just before entering camj). The sledge Hayes
lias borne up bravely under trying circumstances, but it is now a hopeless wreck; the runners are entirely
worn off and its bottom has been repeatedly punctured by short pieces of ice.

Supper at 10.45. ^^ usual in these low temperatures, our ration of fuel was consumed when the meal
was not more than half cooked, and we were forced to console ourselves for the hard work just completed
by a meal of frozen food. Crawled into our sleeping-bags at 1 1.15.

April 28. — I called the cook at 9 a. m., and breakfast was announced two hours later. The frozen state
of the bags and the low temperature again prevented us from obtaining much sleep. This is a very pleas-
ant morning; clear and calm weather, and an apparently high temperature. On investigating, iiowever, it
was found to be —14.0° [ — 25.6" C.|; minimum recorded, —16.0° [ — 26.7'' C.j.

I left cam]) with Kalston and Klison and proceeded along the coast of Saint (Seorge Fiord to the south-
ward in search of Ueaumont's cache, which was made in this vicinity. After a long and unsuccessful search
we asceni.'.ed the promontory (Cape Fulford) projecting into the fiord about six miles from Cape Bryant, and,
erecting a cairn on its summit, deposited in it a record, in which was stated the date and object of our visit.
From our lofty i)osition on this promontory an excellent view of Cape May, Dragon Point, and Mounts
1 looker, Copjjinger, anil Farragut, as well as the fringe of stately, snow-capped mountains along the western
shore of this fiord, was obtained. 'I'hey all stood out boldly, and did not appear to be as far away as they
are represented to be on the map. Cape Britannia and Stephenson and Beaumont Islands could not be seen
distinctly owing to the hazy atmosphere, but dark, shapeless masses, barely discernible, indicated to us thu
jiosition of the land which we so much desire to attain. We returned to camp at 6.30, having been un.nic-
cessful in our search for the depot, but having seen several ptarmigan and tracks of foxes, hares, and lemming,

We are greatly encouraged by the appearance of the ice in the fiord looking towards Cape May, and
shall look for good results in our sledging in that direction. Ralston, Linn, and myself are suffering greatly
from the effects of snow-blindness, notwithstanding the fact of our having worn the goggljs at all times.

April 29. — The cook was called at 7 a. m., and at 9 the breakfast was passed to the men sitting in their
bags. It is a beautiful morning, but the i)ainful condition of my eyes renders me incapable of enjoying it.
Temperature, —14.0^ [ — 25.6° C.J; minimum recorded, —23.0" [ — 30.6° C.].

Ralston's eyes are imjjroving slowly ; Linn's are no better than they were yesterday. Sleep was ban-
ished last night on account of the torture which this snow-blindness has inflicted on our eyes.

We built 1 large cairn, in which all provisions and articles of our ec]uipment. not absolutely necessary for
traveling, were stored for future use. I have been detached from the supporting party, and will accompany
Lieutenant Lockwood on his journey to the northeast. Sergeant Linn will conduct the supporting jiarty
back to the Boat Cam]), where he will remain with two men, sending the other three to Fort Conger. They
( annot accom])any us farther owing to the dila])idated state of the sledges. Linn started back with the
jiarty at 4.18 p. m., using the sledge Hiill to transport their provisions antl effects. Half an hour later
Lockwood, Christiansen, and myself started with the dog-team and twenty-five days' provisions, shai)ing
our course in a northeasterly direction across Saint (ieorge Fiord.

Our loail weighs about 700 pounds, or nearly 90 pounds each to our dogs.

Respectfully submitted.

P, L. Bkainaki),

Serjeant,

THE LADY KRANKI.IN BAY EXPKDITIOX.

225

Record left by Lieut. L, A. Beaumont^ R. A''., at Stanton Ciorgi:

Stanton Goroe Dkpot, yum- t,, 1S76.

This depot was left by the Greenland party for their use on the return journey, on May 5th, the day
on which Dr. Cop[)inger left to return to the Ah-yt.

Tt was visited by Lieutenani Rawson on May 15th, on his return with James Hand, who was suftering
from scurvy, and hatl to be detached from the advanced party.

Lieutenant Rawson took 40 out of the 1 20 rations, or 8 days for his 5 men, which was sufficient to enable
him to reach the Repulse Harbor Depot.

This depot was lasUy visited by Lieutenant Beaumont, in command of the Citeenland exploring ■ arty
on his return journey on the above date.

Lieutenant Rawson left Lieutenant Beaumont on the nth May, for the reason stated above.

Lieutenant Beaumont reached his (iirthest on May 21, and after waiting two (2) days for fine weather
started on liis return journey, chiefly in conseoueiice of the appearance of scurvy amongst the remaining 6
of his crew.

Since that the weather h;':. been very unfavorable, and a great deal of snow has fallen, making the
traveling very heavy. Tliree of the crew have become worse, and, though just able to walk slowly, are
i jlpless ; their names are William Jenkins, Peter Craig, and Charles Paul. Two more show symptoms of it.
Wilson Dobing (considerable), and Frank Jones (slight). Lieutenant Beaumont and Alex. Gray (captain
of sledge), are well. The i)arty takes 40 rations, as their quicker return and the sickness of the men has
enabled them to economise provisions.

Forty rations are thus left at this depot, and these are comj)lete in every respect.

The party starts to-morrow for Repulse Harbor across the floe.

L. A. Beaumont,
Lieutenant, R. N.^ IL M, S. Discovery,

Records left at Repulse Bay by British Arctic Expedition^ i8j^-j6.

H. M. Sledge Alert, at Repulse Bay, Afay 7, 1876.
The above-ni iitioned 4-man sledge arrived here at 4.40 a. m. of the 7th May, having parted company
with Lieutenant Beaumont i<)% miles to the northeast on the coast, and 2}^ miles on this side Cape Stanton
on the sth May. All well, but experiencing slow and very laborious traveling.

I meet here H. AL Sledges Stephenson and Clements Markham, I start to-morrow for Polaris Bay with
die Stephenson and Alert. The adjoining depot contains 92 rations.

The letter to eutenant Beaumont, herewith contained, gives full information regarding depot, and
can be read by an> rson visiting cairn before his arrival.

R. W. COPPINGER, M. D.,

Surgeon.

H. M. Sledge Discovery, Saturday, May 20, 1876.

DEPOT-CROSSING BAY.

Above I'L-ntioned sledge arrived here. May 19th, having left Lieutenant Beaumont on the loth, about
40 miles aid, the coast. I was sent back with J. Hand, one of Lieutenant Beaumont's sledge crew, who
has got siurw; we have had to carry him the last day. Lieutenant Beaumont all well, and going on
with six men. From the top of a peak the day before I left him, three large fiords were di.scovcred, and a
large island. 1 start for Polaris Bay to-day. Bryan, one of my party, has got a had leg, but I hope he
will soon be all ight. I take 20 rat'ons from this depot, including a few loose ones, which are in the wooden
box with the provisions I have got. 1 shall be provisioned up to 30th May. 1 also take pick-ax and boat-
swain's bag, which both belong to my sledge.

Wyatt Rawson,

Lieutenant, y. M. Ship Discovery, Depot-crossing Bay, North Greenland.

yfay 20. — We jiassed Cape Chase. No big hummocks were seen near Cape Chase. Any person can
read my letter to Lieutenant Beaumont.

( I'o Lieutenant Beaumont:) 1 an. taking on your cooking-stove as far as 1 can.
H. Mis. 393 15

UU1

7« .
j

1 !

'" If"

'.'■

226

THE LADY FKANKLIN HAY KXPKUITION,

Ri'.PiisK Hariior Di.rnr, \\.t,o it. m, yinn- lo, 1876.

l.ieutcnanl Ik-auinont, in coininanil of sledge Sir Juhvani J\inj And G men, arrived lierc on the aliove
dale.

Tlie ])arty, after leaving Lieutenant Rawson on the iith ultinui, reached its farthest point on the 19th
May, in latitude 82" 15' N. and longituile 49 , ajiproximately, having exi)erieiuetl very heavy traveling for
the three previous days — across snow, soft underneath and from 3 feet |.9"'J to 4 feet 9 inches li.4"'J deep.
This not only chockeil their further advance, hut brought out the scurvy in two of the crew, who, in conse-
(jUence of the want of proper remedies, became steadily worse from that <late. 'I'hey first suffered in the
thighs and at the back of the knee, but after being much discolored and very much swelled, the pain has
mostly settled in the joints.

'I'he party waited for two days at the last camp in iiopes of being able to ascend Mount Karragut, but
it remaining thick, and snowing the whole time, the state of the provisions as well as tiie increased sickness
of tiie crew necessitated their return.

According to orders a cairn was built at the north end of Reef Island, a small island northwest of the
last lamp, and thus the farthest land attained, and a record left in it containing a brief account of the
e.\i)eilition and the work undertaken by it this year, but considering how unlikely a phae it was ever to be
revisited, the skeleton chart supplied for the pur])ose was not left in that lairn, but was reserved for another
cairn in a more prominent and accessible position. That the ascent of some high i)eak on the lan<l that
terminates in Mounts Hart, Parr, and May, was not accom|)iished is much to be regretted, since it leaves
undecided whether Nares Land and Stei)henson Land are islands separate, or together form jiart 'A the
mainland. This was deemed an important question, but untoward circumstances prevented its solution.
One clear day enabled Lieutenant Beaumont, from the top of Mount \Vindham Hornby (3,900 feet 1 1,189"']
high) to see unich, but left the case of the islands still in doulrt, as the same land obstructed the view.

An etVort was made to reach Mount Parr, as originally intended, by a forced march by the sound
j)art of the crew, but it had to be abandoned in conse(|uence of strong westerly winds, the continuous fall
of snow threatening heavier traveling, and the increaseil necessity tor a s[)eedy return. Just lielow Mount
Windliaiu Hornby, on the shoulder of Dragon Point, which forms the eastern corner of St. (ieorge Fiord,
a cairn was l)uilt, ojien from Cajic Archer through north to C'aj)e Cleveland. In this cairn was jiut a record
in most respects similar to the one at Reef Island, ami the sk'.leton chart, filled up as well as time would
permit, was put with it.

l''rom the 25th ultimo the two sick men have not l)een able to assist in ]iulling the sleilge, but have
walkeil along, holding by the drag-ropes. On the 28th Charles Paul, who had shown syin[)toms of ajiproach-
ing scurvy, was ([uite disabled, and from that time, like the other two, has not been able to assist in anything.

On the 30th we deposited as much gear as we cjuld at Old River Point, the ciiief weight being fifty-six
pounds pemmican, two gallons s])irits wine, two kna])sacks, lower robe, rifle, iS;c., estimated at one hundreil
and seventy pounds. The weather, with very few exceptions, has remained most unfavorable; a considerable
amount of snow has fallen, and so wet that it has rotted the harder and older snow underneath, and made
traveling much more laborious.

The party, thus reduced to four working hands, reached the Stanton Oorgc Depot on the 3d June, by
which time William Jenkins and Charles Paul were only just able to crawl along slowly, the sledge having
to stop and wait for them. Took forty rations to complete w ith, and started same evening, Paul, w ho was
unable lo stand, having to be put on the sledge. \\'ith the extra load the four men w ere unable to take the
sledge along the snow-sloijes. We now, therefore, took to the ice aiul followed the line of Hoes along the
Plack Horn Cliffs, eentually coming into the outward bound tracks and reaching the shore at the same
place where we had left it on the ist ALiy. The next day, June 7, Jenkins failed completely, and had to be
])ut on the sledge. This increased weight, as well as the dillicully of jjassing the Snow and Drift Point slopes,
made it necessary to make two journeys each time, the first to carry the weights and provisions, the second
to bring up the tent and the sick. Snow I'oint was thus passed, but the second trip around Drift Point was
made liy the tloe, having failed to get the sledgo over the point the first time.

The wet snow which aas been falling ever so h.ng is making the traveling hea\ ier and heavier, aiii! f )r
the last two days Craig lias not been able to kee|^ up w iih the sledge, although going ipiite slowly. (Jn
two occasions the four men have not been able to move the sledge through the deep, wet snow and had to
unload to extricate her.

H 1

B >

i5.3S3iV6t-

THE LADY FKVNKIilX BAY EXPEDITION.

227

The party reached tiiis depot after a long, but necessarily slow, march of twelve hours. Out of seven
men forming the whole party, two, William Jenkins and Charles Paul, are absolutely helpless, having to be
dressed and carried to and from the sleilge. Another, Peter C'raig, is just al)Ie to walk very slowly. Wilson
Dobing is gradually approaching the stage when he will no longer be able to pull, and Frank Jones, though
he has uiunistakable signs of the same disease, has not become worse until the last few days. Severe work
made the stiffness a little more felt; the two last, together with Alex. Cray and Lieutenant Heaumont (who
as yet is well in healtli), are the four w(jrking liands upon whom tiie burden of tlie work falls entirely. lU)th
Uobing and Jones are working with great spirit and determination; Craig has shown much courage in
holding out so long, and all have done their best.

'i"he party proceeds to-morrow, the nth June, across the straits, to H. M. Ship Alert, in preference to
overland to Polaris Bay, for the following reasons:

(i) Because the distance from Repulse Harbor to Black Cape, about twenty-three miles, is less this
way and known, while to Polaris Bay is greater, and that way unknown. At Black Cape assistance can be
obtained from the Alert.

(2) Because with three sick, and only four to pull, land traveling has become more difficult tlian on llie
ice, while the probability of one more having to be carrieil and one less to pull will make the gentlest slopes
in this snow impassable to the already overworked three.

(3) F.ven arrived at Polaris Bay without any change for the worse in our conditini. C, : .vMition to the
l)arty would consist of two more sick, James Hand anil Cieorge Bryant, and four sound -jiies. Lieutenant
Rawson, Dr. Coppinger, and two men; for Captain Stephenson, in his letter to me, says that Ur. Coppinger
will be left at Polaris Bay with Hands and the dogs, (^nly thus there will be, at most, 8 mey to manage
two sledges and a 2ofoot [6"'J ice-boat, and take care of five sick and helpless men at the very time when
the ice 's breaking up.

y) ii.i ving seen no signs of any movement in the ice, as yet, and taking the collapsible boat to use as
a last 's'.iource, there is reason to hoi)e that the crossing may be effected without mishai), and thereby the
safety and welfare of the party insured, and assistance to the few now at Polaris Bay more shortly rendeied
than could be the case by the adilition of so reduced and weakened a crew.

'II

I, Lewis A. Beaumont, who wrote the preceding record, having weighed over very carefully the whole
matter, an<l firmly believe that, to the best of my belief and knowledge, I have taken the right course, and
hopefully trust, with Cod's help, to carry it out.

It is my intention, immediately on reaching the Alert, to procure assistance for those at Polaris Bay
(believing that they are too few to manage the 20-foot [6"'J ice-boat) either from that shi|) or the Dhun'cry.

If any of them reach this de[)ot in search of us they will ])lease take a copy of this record and slate
ment for the purpose of eventually taking it to Ca|)tain Stephenson, and they will be able to judge from
the condition of this de[)0t what is the best course to pursue with regard to their own return and the chance
of assistance reaching them through our means.

L. A. Beaimont,

//. M, Sliif- Discovery.

Junk 12, 1876.
I am sorry to state, for a great many reasons, that we are obliged to abandon our intention of goid'g
across the straits to \\\ti Alert. We have been out on the ice, and, after having successfully ])assed the
shore hummocks and the first fioe, we came to o|)en water and last year's ice decaying fast. Thougii we
could have got round it I didn't feel justified in running so great a risk .as it would be to arrive on the
other side eight days later with three helpless men and more open water; so, having no choice left, we are
starting for Polaris Bay immediately.

• L. A. Bkaumont, Z/Vv//.

Repulse Harbor Depot, yune 13, 1876.
Three of us have returned from the camp, half a mile south, to fetch the remainder of the [irovisions.
Dobing has failed altogether this morning. Jones is much worse and cannot last more than two or three
days. Craig is nearly heli)less ; therefore, we cannot hope to reach Polaris Bay without assistance. Two
men cannot do it; so we will go as far as we can and live as long as we can. Cod hel[) us.

L. A. Beaumont.

ii!l|!

ril

■; 1: ■

:i|!'

228

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

[Kxiract fmin Captain Stejihenson's Idler to Lieutenant Keaumont.]

You will find a hook at Polaris Bay with a ineinoranduin from Captain Nares, in which he desires all
officers will carefully enter any provisions removed or used from the American depot, which is equal to 1,000
rations. He wishes 30 pounds tea and 250 pounds ham to be left, which is eijual to 1,000 rations, and the
remainder of those two articles conveyed to the Disomi-ry, so that should you find anything more of those
two items, and can bring them over, to please do so.

L. A. Beaumont, Lieu/.

On reailing Cajjtaiii Stephenson's letter I find that three men will be left with Dr. Coppinger, and not
Hans only, as 1 first supposed, but this will not alter my plan, for the other good reasons.

L. A. B.

0/'siTt\i/ii>>is ttiki'n on North Greenland sledge jiiiniry.

Locality.

Date,
1882.

Time. liarometer. Temperature. Weather.

fanip L Cape A])r.
Murchi.son. |

.Apr.

Camp n, <leix>t 1! Apr.

Apr.

On the march .Apr.

Camp in, on the ' Apr.
Mrait. I

Apr.
On the march Apr.

i
Camp IV, on the Apr.
birait.

Apr.

I til Ai's. ; WW. I

3 I 2 inM'yt 2<). »3 757. 67

I . ' '

4 1 3 p.m. 2;. 65 753. 10

4 8.45 p.m ,

412 m'd'gt 2(). 62 752.33'

5 ; 3 p. -.1. 29. 78 756. 40

5 12 md'gt 29.62 752.33

J ill

6 4.20a.m. 1.. I

I I I

6 6 a. m. 29. 62 752. 33

8 p.m, 29.5s 750.56

On the march

Camp V, on the
strait.

On tht ni.irch

Camp VL I'olariii
Boat Cam]).

Apr.
Apr.
Ai)r.
.\pr.
Apr.
Apr.

Apr.

.\pr.
Apr.

On the march, : Apr.
Newman Hay.

I z m u gi
3.30 a. m.

75-=-3J

7 a.m.

29.67

753-60

8 p. m.

29. 80 756, 91 '

12 m'd'gt

29.82

757.4.,

8 I 9 p. m. 30. 47 773. 92
91 I a.m. 30.55 775.96

9 : 9 a. m. 30. 80 782. 31
9 I 8 p. m. 30. 78 781. 80
9 i2mM'Kti30.62 777. 73

II 12 m'd'gt

6 a. m.

13 8.30 a. m.

14 8 a. m.

15 I 8 a. m.

I I

29. 25 ' 742. 94

I I

29.02 737.09
i
16 1 9 a.m. 28.881733.54!

I6 I 8 p. m.

28. 83 ! 732. 27

Fahr,

32.0

-32.0

—29.0

-28.5'

22.0

-27.0

-',6.0 .

—40. o

330!

-29. o ,

-20.8!

-25-5
-19.5
-17.8
4- 10. o

f 2.0

I- 9-5
+ 3.5

I • I

;- 6.0,

-"!

f- 8.0

+ •0.3

+ «2.3'

V 3.0

-3'5'6

-35.6!

-33- 9

33-6

-30. o

-43- 3 I
—40.0

-36. 1 '

-ii- 9 I

-29. 3

I
-3«.9

-28. 6 1
-27. 7

-12. 2

""i6.y
-12.5
-15.8

-21. 1
—19.4

-12. 1

-10.9
16.1

Minimum tern-
])trature.

Remarks

l.t. snow.

Lt. snow.
NW.fair.

Fahr. I C. \
—41.0 — .40.6

-29 5

Calm and

fair.
IC. It. fair.
SK. brisk,

clou<ly.
SW. brisk.

SE. fresh,
fair.

SE. fresh,
It. snow.
SW. gale.
SW. gale.
SW. gale.
SW. brisk.
.SW. fresh

-48. o

-34.2

-44.4

-28.0-33.3

Calm and

clear.
Fair.

Min. Iher. set at 10.55
p. m.

Min. ther. .set at 8
p. m.

Min. ther. .set at 6
a.m.

Min. ther. set at 4
a.m.

1612 m'd'yt ; 28. 76 730. 49 - 9. o -22. 8

SW. fair. 70 —21.7

— -, f 7-2, -13-8

NE. brisk. ' f- 3.81—15.7
E. It. and
fair.

E. It. and
clear.

Min. Iher. set at 8.30

a.m.
Min. ther. set at 8

a.m.

Mean thermometer

15.8 [— 26,6C.].

Number of ob.'i., 32.

Mean bar. 29.74

[7S5-38"""]. N'""-
ber of obs., 21 .

TUB LADY FUANKLIX I5AV EXPEDITION.

229

all

ise

i f'i

Obsfn'iitivns taken on North Greenhmd sledge journey — Continued.

Locality.

Date,
1882.

(;am|. VII, llre-
voort I't'iiiiisul.t

Time.

liarometer.

Temperature.

1 iHcktt. mm. Fakr,
Apr. 17 9 a. m. 28. 85 732. 78 -t 1 1- o

On the march

Camp VIII, nrc
voort I'eniiisiila.

Apr. 17 ! ijp.m. 28.93 734-81—3.0

1 ' ! '

Apr. 17 I2m'(l't;t 28.88 733- S4 — 9- S

Weather.

— 11.7 ' Calm and

I fair.
— 19. 4 (lalm. It.

SHOW.

-23. I Calm anil
I fair.
Apr. I.S 7 a.m. 28.74 729. 98 — 3.8 —19.9 Calm and

I I I clear.

Apr. 18 lop. m. 28.75 730- 24 — 9.0 22.8 Calm andi— lo. o

I ■ cloudy. I
On the m.irch Apr. 18 J2 m'd'gt 28.70 728.97—8.0 —22. 2 ' Calm, It.

Minimum
teni|jeratiire.

Fakr.

Remarks.

19.4

Camp IX, lire
voort I'eninsula.

.\pr. 19 7 a.m. 28.62 726.93 —13.0-25.0

On the march.
Summit Divide.

Camp .\, Hre-
voort I'enin.sula.

Camp XI, Bre-
voort I'eninsula.

Camp XII, coast
near KcpuUc
Harbor.

Camp XI II, snow
slopes.

Camp XIV, Hlack
Horn ClilVs.

Camp X\', .South
Cape Stanton.

Camp XVI, north
side Hand Bay.
South side
Kranklield Hay.

Camp XVI I, Cape
Bryant.

Apr. 19 , 9 p.m. ' 28. 73 ^ 729. 73 j— 14. o| —25.6; Calm, It. —15.0
I j : j I snow.

.\pr. 20 2 a.m. j 28. 45 < 722. 62 ! — 14.0 — 25. 6 I Calm, It.

snow. I

Calm, h.

snow.
Calm and j — 40. o

clear.
SE., brisk
clear.
3.0^—19.4 SE., brisk
cloudy.

Apr. 20 6 a. m.

Apr. 20 j II p. m.

Apr. 21 9 a. m.

Apr. 21 II p. m.

Apr. 22 I 8 a. m.

Apr. 23

4 a. m.

.\pr. 2^1 6 p. m.

Apr. 24 j 8 a. m.

Apr. 24 6 p. m.

Apr. 25
Apr. 25
Apr. 26
Apr. 26
Apr. 27
Apr. 27
Apr. 28
Apr. 28
Apr. 29

28. 60 ' 726. 43 ! —19. 5 : —28. 6

I i i

28. 60 726. 43 I —38. o -38- 9

29. 25 742.94!— 5.0—20.6

28.98

736. 08

+ 8.o;-i3.3

29- 35 745- 48 + 8. o

•3.3

7 a.m.
12 noon

6 .1. m.

7 p. m.
7 a. m.

29.57 751.00 .fi4.0|-lo.o
29. 17 740.90! + 6. 5 I— 14. 2
29. 25 742. 94

29-43 747- S'

29.45
29-53

748. 02
750. 05

H1.5 — 11.4

+ »4-5J— 9-7
•f 3. o ] —16. I
— 5.5 — 20.8
— 14.0 — 25.6

29-55

8 p. m. j 29. 55
12 noon ! 29. 45

8 p. m.
8 a. m.

29-47
29-53

750.56 — 17.0 —27.2

750. 56
748. 02
748. 52
750. 05

■ 14.0

i
-14.0

-25.6
-25.6

SK.,l)risk,

fair.
SK., fresh,

It. snow.
Calm, It.

snow.
Calm and

fair.
Calm and

clear.

—23- 3

-26.1

—40.0

- 7.0

+ 7-0
+ 4-0

-16.0 — 26. 7
-IV 5 --24. 2

N., clear..
.SVV., cl'dy

Calm and

clear.
Calm and

clear.

+ 9-0

-'SS

-23-5

-16.0

21.7

-•3-9
-15.6

—12.8

—26. 4

-30. S

-26.7

.30.0

Min. ther. set at 9
a. m.

Min. ther. set at 7
a. m.

Min. ther. set at 6
a. m.

Min. ther. set at 9
a. m.

Min. ther. set at 8
a. m.

Min. ther. set at 6
p. ni.

Min. ther. set at 6
p. m.

Min, ther. set at 12
noon.

Min, ther. set at 7

p. lU.

Min. ther. set at S
p, m.

Min. ther. .set at 8

p. m.
Mean ther., — 7.4

[— 2l.9°C.]; No.

observations, 39.

Mean bar., 29.09

[738.87"""] ; No.

obs., 25.

ill'

H-

1 ; , !:

lili

k;l

! ?

230

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Tabulated sttilemeiit of liistame travrlcii

i/ii/ time (

onsiti/irit.

Uiitance (^engrnphical

miles).

Time

(hours).

E ■

3 V

1882.

■6

•d

;

■^

■3

-C!

-3

**;

-t;

;<:

Out.

//. OT.

//.

/;.

//.

III.

y»///«.

Kurl ron(,'er In Unal Camp

•57

224

21 ^O

«5

2.23

Hiial t\im|i lo StM Coast

3'''

III

18 4S

5**

1. 92

Sta Coasl lo Tape Hrvaiil

37 'i

•03' J

"5^'

21 30

"•74

Cape liryanl lo Cape liiilannia

60 iiS

118

32 00

1.87

Cape liiilannia to I'arlliesl

95 1 95

39 40

....

2.39

Total (oiil)

276,1/i

4(>9'A 1 194

063>4

133 as

223

29s

•5

2.07

Jia.i:

-— —

— __

—

Farllu'sl lo Cape lirilaniiia

37 20

4«

2.54

Cape liiilannia to Cape liryanl

(K3

fio

24 45

.1.42

Cape liryanl to Itoal Camp

b\}i Oi'4

(,i>i

27 30

sf-

2. 23

Ifuat Canii) lu Kent Coiiyei ....
Total (Lack)

48 1 48

22 45
112 20

28
'34

20
40

2. II

264,'i

204,!^ i

2l>4'2

134

2.32

-'^k'gfegate (out and back)

541 ,

734 194

928

24s 45

357

429

2. 19

Agyregate in statute miles

623»i

1,069^^

The word "advanced," lioth here .ind in the journal, refers to the simple distance from camp to camp and the actual time
occupied in niakin); that distance, all stops deducted.

'I'ho word "traveleil" includes tola' nund)er of miles traveled, the numliur of miles advanced adiled to those traveled in
(joinj; back and forth in "doubling up." The time corresponding refers to the whole time from leaving one camp to arriving at
the ne.xt, all slo]>s included.

The "additional miles" refers to incidental journeys not numbered as marches.

The rate per hour is the rate of "advance," computed from the lime and distance a<lvanceil.

The whole statement is conlined Xo the dog-sledge.

List of ilothhii^ on pt-rsoH and in /uii:; on

having Fort Con^

'er.

Articles.

I
1

"rt
Pi

I
I

3
2

•0

3
1

Cloih caps

Seal-skin trousers* .,__

Woolen troufsers (Government)

3
I

Canvas frocks .

3
2

3
2
I
I

I
2

I
I
2

2
2
I

2
I

I
I
3

I
I

Flannel or woolen shirts

Drawers pairs..

(iuernseys

Seal-skin tcmiaks .

Sealskin milleiis .,

Woolen mittens

2
I

4
2

I
I
I

2
I
I

Dog-skin mittens ..

Seal-skin boots

■

---

Canvas shoes

Huck-skin moccasins pairs..

Woolen socks pairs. _

lilanket wrappers . ..

5
I

6
2

4
2

3
2

Dog-skin and deerskin tcminks .

Deer-skin stockings .. .

Coats (wfH)len) ._

Ulankel vests ...

■

....

■<«

* Mostly exchanged afterwards for woolen trousers.

This li.st w.is subseipiently changed somewh.it. The clothing bag of each man w.is limited lo 8 pounds in weight on
leaving I'ort Conger. ( )n leaving Hoat Camp everything imssilile was left there. Many of the alxjve articles were made by the
men themselves out of blankets.

=-«l"B«*«liP*«f"

TUE LADY FUANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION,

231

Report of proicidings by Sirgcaiil Ji'~ii'cU ichile dclaihcd.

Fort Concf.k, (iKinnki.i, Land, March ^o, 1882.

Sir: In compliance with your orders of Marcli 21, rcceivcil at depot 1! upon my return to tiiut point
from Lincoln liay, 1 have the honor to submit the following report.

At 7 a. m. March 25, accompanied by Private Ellis, who by your order joined mo yesterday, anil
Frederick Chri> lansen, left depot 15 at 9 a. m. with the load of provisions, composed of the following, vi/.,
I bag pemmican, 2 cans alcohol, 3 boxes English beef, 2 bags bread, and 2 cans of lime-juice pemmican^ In
addition we carried two sleeping-bags, with cooking utensils, &c. Finiling that this load was too great for
the ilogs, upon my arrival at Cape Beechey, at 1 1 a. m., I lightenetl it by caching one (an alcohol and one
box English beef. We here left the ice-foot, and after crossing the rubble ice near the shore reached a large
tloe that continued to within about 3 miles of the (Ireenland shore. In conseipience of the dogs becoming
very tired I left the other can of alcohol at this place, and after several hours' hard work reached depot E
at II p. m. We then built a snow house and retired for the night. .Minimum temperature, from 11 p. m.
25th to 1 1 a. m. 26th, 51° below zero [ -46,1° C.J.

Afiur/i 26. — 1 learned a lesson last night, or rather this morning, that hereafter in using a snow house
I shall heed. I noticed when 1 retired that the candle burned very dimly, but thinking nothing of it went
to sleep. This morning I felt as usual and ate (juite n hearty breakfast. But upon going into the fresh air,
I was taken with a dizziness in the head and sickness at the stomach, so severe that at one time I could see
nothing at all. The other men were equally as bad off as myself, and for some time it looked very serious,
as the temiycrature was 36° below zero [ — 37.8° C.j. liut after half an hour's brisk exercise it gradually wore
away. 'I'he cause of this was doubtless foul air caused by insufficient ventilation.

This morning I examined the depot already established and found everything in confusion, the result
probably of a severe gale, as the boat was found on the ice-foot completely wrecked, and snow-shoe:; and
other articles scattered all over the ice, some being at least a quarter of a mile from the ilci)ot. Ellis, w ho
had frozen his foot coming from Fort Conger to depot B, became worse and I left for the latter place, at
which point 1 arrived at 7.35 p m. We found the traveling quite severe owing to a brisk wind,

I gave the dogs a rest on the 27th as well as delaying operations, in order to ascertain as to whether
Ellis would be able to continue his work.

The next morning (28th) Ellis's foot being much worse, I concluded to take him to Fort Conger, for
which place I started at 7.20 a. m., but after walking a short distance he, with a fortitude that does credit to
him, insisted upon going alone, so that I could return and continue my work. In consecjuence I returned
and at 8.45 a. m. started for depot E with i can alcohol, i bag pemmican, 2 bags bread, and 2 boxes lime-
juice pemmican. We reached Cape Beechey at 10.40 a, m., and taking on the alcohol and box of English
beef left there, startetl across at 1 1 a. m. We arrived at the tent at i p. m., and within about 3 miles of the
Greealand shore at 4 p. m. I here left my load and returned to the tent, arriving at 5.40 p. m.

I left the tent at 8 a. m. (29th) with the provisions previously left there, consisting of i largt; bag of
canned goods, 2 boxes pemmican, and i box potatoes, and on my way over also added 2 cans alcohol left
on the ice, reaching the depot at 3 p. m. Started back for the tent at 3.30, and reached that point at 7
p. m. Upon examining my barometer I found it very low, 28.91 [734.30"""]. The temperature at the time
being 51° below zero [ — 46.1" C.J, the conditions were all favorable for :i severe storm, and not wishing to be
caught on the straits, we prepared and ate our supper, fed the dogs, and at about 9 p. m. left for depot 1>,
at which point we arrived at i a. m.

At I [). m. of the 30th I started for Fort Conger as I knew that, owing to the storm on the channel, it
would be two or three days before I couIq .jross again. I met with a very high wind, especially in crossing
St. Patrick Bay, and around Cape Murchison, arriving at 6.40 p. m.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

W. S. Jkweli,,
Siri^earif, Sii:;nal Corps, U. S, A,

Lieut. J. B. LocKWooi),

Commanding North Greenland Sleitge Party.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

S^A
^4^

^ ^

1.0

I.I

11.25

ly
u
us

140

■H
2.2

2.0

Hiotographic

Sciences

Corporalion

•ss

•*
<^A

23 WIST MAIN STMIT

WBBSTM.N.Y. MStO

(716)l72-4503

•^

ri(

iff

23d laH LADV FBAKKLIN BAt FXPBDITIOK.

Memoranda of stores cached at Cape Bryant and Polaris Boat Camp.
Memorandum of Rations and Stores left in Cache at Cape Bryant May 24 and 35, 1883.

Poundt.

Pemmican (English), eatable, but not good 53

Pemmican (lime-juice) . 45

Bacon (English), a little musty 7

Hard bread ( English), stale and musty (40 rations) . 30

Hard bread (United States), about 17

Alcohol, 2 bags l02oz.,and i can 190 oz _. i%%

Dried beans, 2 bags i8)4

Pounds.

Chocolate, about 4

Tea l'4

Tea (English) —

I snow-knife.

I havenack with medicines.

1 5 rounds breech-loading shotgun (12 gauge) ammunition.

40 English rations of stearine.

Memorandum of Rations and Stores left in whale-boat at Polaris Boat Camp May 30, 1882.

Butter, 3-lb. cans cans.. 10

Corned beef, 2-lb. cam . do.. 3

Extract of beef do.. 6

Extract of mutton do.. 6

Condensed eggs do.. 3

Cranberry sauce do.. 3

Potatoes do.. 2

Baked beans do.. 7

Soup do.. I

Milk do.. 18

Hard bread pounds.. 70

Tea do.. \%

Dried beans do 90

Salt ...do.. 8

Eng. potatoes, i box ...... „ do.. 14

Sugar. . pounds..

Chocolate do_.

Pemmican (lime-juice) ..do..

Lime-juice quarts..

Alcohol gallons..

Snow-knives 4

Rubber bbuiket i

Blanket wrappers pairs.. 4

Spade I

Snow-shoe (odd one) i

Canvas shoes pairs.. 4

Wicking lalls.. 10

Splints (medical) 4

"Repair-box" forboat „ I

Several pieces of tin.

Copy 0/ records left in cairns at Lockwood Island and elsewhere.
Records left in cairns at Farthest, worded as follows:

I. I left Fort Conger, Discovery Harbor, April 3, 1882, with party of twelve men and equipment consist-
ing of one dog-sledge and teams and four Hudson Bay sledges. Four of the party broke down in crossing
the straits and were sent back. Two of the sledges also became useless and another, a large sledge, was
substituted for them. Thus equipped the party left the base of supplies (which we had in mean time estab-
lished at the " Boat Camp," Newman Bay) April 16 and reached Cape Bryant April 27. Near the Black
Horn Cliffs the large sledge referred to broke a runner, and at Cape Bryant the two remaining Hudson
Bay sledges were unable to go further, being worn out. Here the rest of the party turned back while I
continued on with the dog-team, Sergeant D. L. Brainard, general service, U. S. Army, and Frederik
Christiansen (Eskimo).

Cape Britannia was reached May 4 and this cape May 13 [1882]. Here I turn back, starting to-mor-
row the I sth inst. All well at this date.

J. B. Lockwood,
Second Lieutenant, Twenty-third Infantry, U. S. Army,

n. Shoe [Mary Murray] Island and several intermediate points between that and Cape Britannia, each
giving a brief summary.

III. Cape Britannia, brief summary.
JV. Cape Bryart, brief summary.

V. Polaris Boat Camp, brief summary.

VI. Repulse Haibor, brief summary.

mam

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

233

Appendix No. 54. — Report of Private Biederbick^ s journey into Black Rock I'ale.

Fort Conger, Grinnkll Land, yune 2, 1882.
Sir : In compliance with your instructions, for me to proceed to Black Rock Vale and take meteoro-
logical observations and magnetic bearings of prominent points, I have the honor to submit the following
report.

I left Fort Conger May 31, at 12.30 a. m., accompanying Sergeant Rice's party to the tent in the
Bellows, at which point we arrived at 2.15 a. m. Barometer reading at 5.15 a. m., 30.36 |77'''3"""];
attached thermometer, 30° [-1.1° C.]; 7 a. m.. barometer, 30.38 [771.64 "•"•]; att. then, 32° |o.o° C]; at 4
p. m., barometer, 30.34 [770.62"""]; att. then, 27.5° [ — 2.5° C.]. I left the tent at 4.4° P- ni., arriving at
Knife Edge at 6.50. Barometer at 7 p. m., 30.31 [769.86"'"'] ; att. then, 27.9 1—2.3° C.j. Magnetic bearing
to point A, on accompanying chart, 201 ; to Bleak Cape, 356. I left this station at 7.20, proceeding up the
valley until 8.05, when I came to a lake, from 3 to 3>4 miles in length, and varying from 200 to 800 yards
[183 to 732""] in width. Picked up some shells. Reading of barometer at 8.05 p. m., 30.30 [769.61"'™ ) ;
thermometer, 28° [ — 2.2° C.]. I arrived M point A at 9.35 p. m. Barometer, 30.30 [769.61""" j ; thermom
eter, 31° [—0.6° C]. Magnetic bearing forward to point B, 255. Arrived at end of lake at 10.40 p. m.
Continuing up the valley, I arrived at point B at i a. m. June i. Barometer, 30.13 [76s.29'""'|; thermom-
eter, 29.9° [ — 1.2° C.J. Bearing to point C 229, and to point 0215. From here I began the ascent of a
high hill on the west side of the valley, but owing to fatigue gave up the attempt, and started on my return
to the tent at 2 a. m. Barometer reading at 4 a. m., 30.25 [768.34"'"'j ; att. then, 23° [ — 5.0° C.j.

I arrived at the tent at 10.15 a. m.- Barometer upon arrival, 30.30° [769.61"""]; att. then, 29.8" [—1.2° C.J.
At 2 a. m. June 2, barometer 30.15 [765.80"'"'] ; thermometer, 28° [ — 2.2° C.J. Left tent at 2.15 a. m. and
arrived at Fort Conger at 6.15 a. m.

I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

Henry Biederbick,
Private, Company G, Seventeenth Infantry.
Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

First Lieut., Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Expedition.

Note. — A piece of coal was found above the lake [HeintzelmanJ. — A. W. G.

Original map of Private Biederbick not reproduced, but its features have been incorporated in general
map of Grinnell Land. — A. W. G.

Appendix No. 55. — Sergeant Linn^s report of journey into Black Rock Vale.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, yune 13, 1882.
Sir : Pursuant to your instructions, dated June 5, 1882, 1, accompanied by Private Bender and by F. T.
Christiansen, with his dog-team, left this station on the jth, at 1 1.30 a. m., for Lake Hazen. Arrived at tent
at 3.40 a, m. on June 6, cooked supper, and slept until 1 1 a. m., when, after cooking breakfast, we left the
tent at i p. m., taking the dog-team farther up, for about a mile, and then sending it back to the station.
Arrived at mouth of Black Rock Vale at 2.45 p. m.. Bender taking bearings, and then proceeded up the
vale. Traveling, on account of water from the side hills mixing with the soft snow, was made almost
impossible with the extemporized wagon. Arrived at head of lake (Biederbick's discovery) at 6 p. m., which
I judge to be about 3 miles long and 1,000 yards [9i4"'| wide. Camped at 7.10 p. m., cooked supper, and
slept until 8.40 a. m. June 7, when we started again, following the valley, and taking five days' rations,
leaving the rest with tent and wagon at camp. We passed a gap on our left which runs S\V. (true), and at
2.17 stopped and saw two peaks. Ascended the hill and found that the peaks seen were undoubtedly of
the United States Range. Camped at 3.30 p. m.; ate supper; slept until 10.05 P- •"• I-^ft the valley at
10.55 P- ™'» climbed hill to summit, and saw a small lake, 1 mile long and 300 yards [274""] wide. Crossed
the lake, ascended another hill, and at 12.05 a. m. we saw the United States Range and four glaciers, and
the northeast end of Lake Hazen. Camped at 1 2.30 a. m.

234

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

yutu 8. — Arose at 1 1 a. m. and got breakfast. Bender taking the necessary bearings, started at 11.30
a. m. on our return to station. Saw in the valley five musk-oxen and five geese. Camped at 9.15 p. m.
at lake [Heintzelman].

At 4.15 a. m. June 9 arose, cached remainder of rations, and started at 4.55 a. m., bringing wagon and
sleeping-bag to the tent. Arrived there at 9.15 a. m., cooked tea, and at 10.15 a. m. started for the station,
where we arrived at 5.15 p. m.

The following bearings, with prismatic compass, were taken by Private Bender:

Date.
1882.

Hour of
oUservation.

Observa-
tion.

Rearing.

Harometer.

Dtt;rtts.

Imhel

mm.

June 6.

2.4s p.m.

First

20s

29.78

756.40

4-3S pm.

Second...

200

29.01

752.08

June 7.

8.41 a. m.

Third....

210

29.64

75284

11.34 a. m.

Fourth ...

270

29 52

749-79

12.31 P' m-

Fifth ....

259

29.52

749-79

2.17 p. m.

.Sixth

26s

29.28

743-70

330 p.m.

Seventh ..

2ri

29-35

745-48

lo.SS p. m.

Eighth...

243

29.78

756.40

June 8.

1 .20 a. m.

Ninth

220

29.78

756. 40

Bearings for mountaiits and glaciers: First, for mountain
SW., 181 ; second, mountain in center, 2jo; third, mountain on
NK. end, 205. F'irst glacier, SW., 230; second, center, 265; third,
NVV., 20s .

I am, very respectfully,

David Linn,
Sfrgeant, General Service, U. S. A.

To the Commanding Officer, Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.

Appendix No. 56. — Lieutenant Lockwood'' s report of launch trip up Archer Fiord.

Fort Conof.r, Grinnei.l Land, Oitober d, 1882.

Sir: I have the honor to submit the following report of a trip in the steam-launch Lady Greely, niadt
August 13 to 16, pursuant to your letter of instructions of August 12, 1882.

August 13. — The party consisting of myself, Sergeants Brainard, Ralston, Cross, and Linn, and Private
Frederick left the station in the launch at 8.30 o'clock in the morning, taking in tow the English boat
Vitlorous, with Sergeant Rice and a party for Musk-ox Bay. We reached this bay without event or delay
and took the party about half-way to its head when, dropping the boat, the launch proceeded towards
Archer Fiord via the western entrance. The ice was in small, detached pieces, much scattered and we
made a straight course. Outside the ice was much the same and a straight course was taken for Keppel
Head ; however, when off Miller Island several large floes were encountered, which made necessary a detour
to the right towards the island. Above Keppel's Head the fiord was found almost entirely clear of ice, and
in the upper part it was rare to meet with even a small piece. Seeing no ice in front I inclined to the left
towards the southern shore, and in two and a half hours we were quite near it, not far from opposite Hillock
Depot. I took this side on account of game. The north shore is at the foot of a continuous line of steep
cliffs, while that along which we now continued up the fiord is a grassy slope, rising gradually to the hills
some miles back from the water. In places, however, these hills approach the shore, and here and there the
mountain streams have formed great gaps and declivities. We soon saw a herd of half dozen musk-oxen,
but though we approached the shore very cautiously and used a good deal of strategy after landing, they
made off before any of us got within range. A few miles farther on we got two musk-oxen and twenty ptar-
migan, and soon afterwards seven more musk-oxen; these last allowed themselves to be shot down without

■■■

THE LADY FRANKLIF BAY EXPEDITION.

235

resistance. They were a mile from the coast and thus involve 1 a great deal of hilrjr and delay. The meat
was left till our return. A good many seal were seen — the entire length of the fiord — but we were unsuc-
cessful in getting any.

August 14. — Reached Bulley's Lump at 5 a. m., after several hours of very squally wind and rough
water; the launch shipped several seas. The steep cliffs we now steamed along, within a few yards of,
strange to say, hardly seemed to screen off any wind ; it seemed to come down vertically, and in one place
where we shot a number of geese on and close to shore, several were blown out of sight before they could be
got ; yet the wind was from the south all the time. Klla. Bay is walled in on both sides by steep and high
cliffs, which, extending inland, form a valley at its head two or three miles wide and quite level ; this valley
obliques to the right a few miles from the bay, and the view above that is thus cut off. We reached the
head of the bay at 9.30 a. m., and thinking the water deep enough I ran the launch ashore at the mouth of
a considerable stream which runs down through the valley. Just before this two musk-oxen were seen, and
I sent off two hunters after them. By noon we were all asleep on the shore. During our sleep it rained.

August 15 Got up at i a. m. to find it still overcast, with the launch high and dry, and the tide

ebbing out. Out from shore a large shoal extended, which at low tide was bare for one-tjuartcr of a mile out.
Feeling stiff, antl also uneasy about the launch, I went inlanti but a short distance; starting out alone after
getting something to eat and going as far as a rocky height on the north side of the valley. I wjis disap-
pointed, however, in seeking the prolongation of the valley from this point. I saw a lake of some extent
some distance off and a few miles from it the glacier (quite a large one) which is evidently the same laid down
on the English map. I got back in two hours. The two musk-oxen referred to, were got, and this morning
another ; also three hares and some birds. A large bone of some mammal* was also found. The sun was in-
visible at noon and before and after, so that no observations were possible. At 1 1 a. m. the launch was got
afloat (it being high tide), and being limited to three days' absence from the station, steam was got uj) and
I prepared to return. We started at 1.20 p. m., and proceeded some miles to the mouth of a water-course on
the south shore of the bay where 1 had observed a large piece of drift-wood; this was put on board. Here
and at the head of the bay traces of Eskimo were observed. I stopped at Record Point and left a short notice
of the trip and took Lieutenant Archer's record. A small glacier was noticed in Beatrix Bay, a little way
off. I next touched at Depot Point, but failed to find the English cache of rations though we found the
place where there apparently had been a cache (/. e., a cavity in the rocks in which was a gunny sack, and
outside some fragments of tobacco); we found nothing more though we examined the locality from the
launch pretty well, running close along shore to do so. The " Point " is a mass of bowlders lying thick and
in great confusion on the surface of a steep slope. I stopped but one-quarter hour as there was a doubt of
our having enough coal to steam back with. On this account also I proceeded direct to the musk-ox meat
on the south shore and thence straight for Bellot Island.

August 16. — Off Miller Island the ice was found crowded pretty close, and some delay was experienced
in getting through. Conybeare Bay seemed full. After this we proceeded without difficulty via the west-
ern entrance and the north side of Bellot Island, and reached the station at 5.08 a. m., the coal just sufficing.

Game brought back. — 12 musk-oxen, 24 geese, 20 ptarmigan, 3 hares, 36 turnstone, 6 knots, and 3 terns.

Memoranda from Journal. — August 13, 8.30 a. m. left station ; 9.15 a. m. off east cape of Musk-ox Bay ;
9.30 dropped boat in tow; 10.30 on line with SE. end Sun Peninsula and Keppel's Head; 1.53 p. m. op-
posite Keppel's Head; 4.20 to 5.38 and 6.30 to 9.00 p. m., stopped for musk-oxen; 9.15 to i a. m., August
14, stopped for musk-oxen; 5.05 a. m. reached Bulley's Lump.

Going out twenty-five hours ; less stops, about seventeen hours. Coming back fifteen and three-quarters
hours ; less stops, fifteen hours.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

J. B. LocKwoou,
Second Lieutenant, Twenty-third Infantry, A. S. O.

First Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Fifth Cavalry, A, S. O. and Assistant, Commanding.

* Tills was evidently the bone of a whala; it was brought to Fort Conger by Lieutenant Lockwood.— A. W. G.

236 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Appendix No. 57. — Lieutenant Lockzz>ood^s report 0/ launch trip up Chandler Fiord.

Fort Concer, Grinnell Land, October 7, 1882.

Sir : I have the honor to make the following report on my trip in the steam-launch Lady Greely to Ida
Bay, pursuant to your orders of August 19, 1882 :

The party, consisting of myself, Dr. Pavy, Sergeants Israel, Rice, Cross, Linn, and Elison, and Pri-
vates Frederick and Schneider, left the station at 8 a. m. August 19 and reached the western entrance with
little or no <lelay, and then made an attempt to cross Lady Franklin Bay in order to leave Dr. Pavy
and Sergeant Elison on the south shore, as contemplated and arranged, but after many delays in working
through the ice we were brought to a standstill not far from shore. Seeing no prospect of proceeding I
steered for Bcllot Island, and getting a good view saw so much ice in the sound [Archer FlordJ as induced
me to return. \Ve were not able to reach the station, the ice having shifted its position in the east end of the
harbor, but landed at Proteus Point. Some hours afterwards the launch was enabled to reach the station.
We brought back six geese and a duck, shot near Bellot Island.

Au^uit 21. — Started again in the launch at 4 o'clock p. m. with the same party. The western entrance
was reached in an hour (the usual time), but I had to make a considerable detour towards the west before
an opening in the ice enabled the launch to be stoered direct for Red Bluff (a bluff on the opposite shore
about 5 miles from Cape Baird). When well out in the fiord we found open water, perfectly free from ice,
but on nearing the southern shore we again met the floes. However, we were not stopped, though delayed
by the detours necessary, but more especially by a strong head wind, and Iieavy sea which frequently came
aboard. This existed for two or three miles — between the ice last referred to and the shore. Red Bluff
was reached at 8.30 p. m. After landing the Doctor and Sergeant Elison, I steered direct for Miller Island.
We encountered no ice at all in the fiord, but the strong south wind raised a considerable sea ; the island
was reached at 11.30 p. m.

August 22. — We continued along the south side of Chandler Fiord. About opposite the west end of
the island a musk-ox was seen, but Sergeant Israel, Frederick, and Schneider, who went ashore after him,
were unsuccessful in getting within range. We now encountered more or less ice, but made good projjress,
the pieces being small and widely separated. After discussing the objects of the expedition with Sergeants
Israel and Rice, I decided to land at the mouth of a conspicuous valley off to the right oblique (on the
north shore). Here a good (in fact the only) base for triangulation offered itself, and a good place to get a
set of observations for latitude and longitude, &c. After a rest here I intended going on up the fiord. No
satisfactory standpoint for a photograph yet offered itself. We landed accordingly at 1.30 a. m. ; several
hours were occupied in killing and bringing down a musk-ox several miles up the valley. This morning the
measurement of the base line, the several series of observations, and sleep occupied the time till 3.30 p. m.,
when the launch again started, steering for Ida Bay. We had more and more trouble with the ice, and soon
were obliged to work our way very slowly close to the north shore — brought to a stop every few minutes.
In this way we reached very near the north arm of the fiord when progress became so difficult that I thought
it unadvisable to attempt to go farther — indeed it was hardly possible. To the south and west extended an
immense floe of old ice with an unbroken surface. Sergeant Rice and others thought it had formed here.
We had been working our way between the edge of it and the shore. Sergeant Rice took a picture of the
view towards Miller Island. After this still seeing no prospect of advancing I turned back. We get out of
this cut lie sac with difliculty and then proceeded to the mouth of a ravine on the south shore, about oppo-
site the base line established on the north shore. Here I found extensive traces of Eskimo — perhaps two
dozen " meat caches " and several old bone implements. Here a number of angles were taken with the
transit and we then proceeded to the west end of Miller Island to complete the survey. The ice was found
pretty much as before till we got here ; but here a large floe or series of floes stretched from the island a
long way towards the northern shore. We were able, however, to start pretty direct for Stony Cape by
hugging the north shore of the island — delayed at only one or two places. But we encountered consid-
erable delay some distance further on.

August 23. — I desired to take observations and a picture at Stony Cape, but the sun was invisible and
the weather by no means favorable for either, so I ran up to the head of Sun Bay to take a rest and await
better weather. We cast anchor at 12.20 a. m. and slept on shore. I walked over to the Bellows, but saw
nothing. It rained during our sleep, and when we got up, about noon, the weather was still bad. At 2.25
p. m. started for the station. Fifty minutes were occupied in reaching Cape Clear, after much turning and

vwnnK^nn

!■■

MuMk ftr Bag\

Chart siiowinu ExcuRsroNS of

Stbam Launch "Lady Greely," during

THE Summer of 1882.'

To Cape Cracrufi, Aug, Tih.

To Ella Bay, Aug. lSth-16th.

Acro» Sound and up Chandler Fiord, Aug. Slit— 38d.

To Red Bluff and C. Baird Depot, Aug Mth— aTth.

J. R LOCKWOOD,

ad Ueut.2gdInr.A.S.O.

10 miles (geo).

OcogrspMcil Milei

I I I I I I I — ' ■ ■ '
» 10

if.

^IFWiil

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

237

twisting among the floes. Here we got in heavy ice which, moving in o|)|)osite directions quite rapidly, threat-
ened to crush the small boat towed behind, and farther along the coast the large, rapidly moving floes
threatened the launch herself. However, in two and one-half hours, by keeping close to shore, and after
many stops, we reached the western entrance, and after more of the same kind uf navigation (though with-
out risk) we reached the station at 7.30 p. m.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

J. B. LocKwoon,
SfconJ Lieutenant, Twenty-third Infantry, A. S. O,
First Lieut. A. W. Greklv,

Fifth Cavalry, A, S, O. ami Assistant, Commanding.

Appenuix No. 58. — Dr. Pavy^s orders to proceed to Carl Hitter Bay.

Fort Conger, Gkinnell Land, August 19, 1882.
Sir: You are hereby ordered with Sergeant* Klison to examine Judge Daly Promontory for an overland
route from Cape Baird to Cape Defosses or Carl Ritter Bay.

Such provisions and equipment as you may designate will be furnished. Lieutenant Lockwood has
instructions to lanil you from the launch Lady Greely. In case of any delay provisions in depot at Cape
Baird will be available as per inclosed memorandum.
I am, respectfully, yours,

A. W. Grkei.v,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant, Commanding.

Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Pavy,

U. S. Army.

Appendix No. 59. — Sergeant Elison's report of trip to Carl Ritter Bay.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, Nor'ember 2, 1882.

Sir: In accordance with instructions received from you, I herewith respectfully submit the following
report taken from my diary :

August 21, 1882. — Doctor Octave Pavy and myself left station on st<;^m-launch under command of
Lieutenant Lockwood 3.55 p. m., to be landed on south side of Lady Franklin Bay; landed about 5 miles
west of Cape Baird at 8.35 p. m. This is our starting point for an overland trip to Carl Ritter Bay; made a
cache at this point of our extra clothing and provisions. At 9.10 p. m., with about 25 pounds strapped to
our backs each, our march commenced. We ascended a steep, rough ravine to the summit of the first hills,
elevation about 600 feet [183'"]. From here we took a westward course for about three-quarters of a mile,
then nearly due south for about 3 miles. Here we found a valley leading southwest ; so far we had to
travel up and down hills. At this point, about 4 miles from the starting point, we saw 5 musk-oxen; 3 took
to flight on our appro.ich. A cow and calf stood facing us. I killed the cow and calf, dressed the calf and
took the entiails out of the cow; it took us about one hour. At 12.30 a. m., August 22, we started again
traveling through the valley in a southwest direction ; traveling good. The valley is nearly level and from
50 to 400 yards [46 to 366°'] wide. A small river [Pavy river] is running through this valley about 10
inches [254"""] deep on an average, and from 5 to 10 yards [4.5 to 9"'] wide. Went in camp 3 a. m. August
22, distance traveled about 1 1 miles, weather clear and pleasant. During our march we noticed a large
break in coast range, apparently leading to Cape Cracroft.

August 22, — Got up at 9 a. m., took breakfast, consisting of corned-beef, and hardbread with good
cold water. At 9.30 a. m. we started again, traveling in about the same direction. Mountain range along
the coast is high; some mountains attain the height of about 2,000 feet [610"']; we also noticed very high

'Corporal in original, as Elison's promotion to sergeant was not then officially known. — A. W. G.

238

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

land to wcstwani of valley ; mountain tops covered with snow, At 10.30 a. m. we struck a small lake about
500 yards [457"'] long by al)out 200 yards [iSj"'] wide; the lake is oval in shape, water clear, free of ice and
apparently deep, banks steep; had to travel over the hills to get around it. At 1 1.45 a. m. we got to another
lake of al)out the same dimensions as the former, banks also steep. At 12.45 P- '^'- ^'^ K<^' ^^ another lake,
which is the largest of the three. It is iibout one-half mile [805™] long and .^00 yards [274*1 wide; it
narrows somewhat toward each end. 'I'his lake had a belt of ice in its center about 25 yards [23"'] wide,
extending nearly its whole length; water very clear, banks steep. Alwut 4 miles northwest of Cape Dcfosses
we got to the divide of the valley. From here out the valley turns to e.ist by south, and the decline is quite
rapid, but could be traveled by sledges during winter and early spring. We traveled on the east side of the
last lake, struck a wide valley about 2 miles west by north of Ca|)e Uefosses. Judging from the amount of
water flowing in three branches, there must be a mountain stream from the norths est to furnish this supply
of water. Went in camp at 3,30 |). m. August 22, about 2 miles inland from Cape Defosscs.

AHfiiisI 23. — dot up at 1.30 a. m. Left camp at 2 a. m, ; the opening at Cape Defosses is about 1 mile
wide. From here out we traveled along the coast ; traveling fair, but tiresome ; there is loose gravel along
the beach. Went in camp 10.10 a m., distance traveled about 15 miles; it snowed several times during the
day. (fot up at 6.45 p. m. Left camp 7 p. m., traveling about the same, went in camp 1.30 a, m. August
24 got up at 7 .a. m., took a drink of water and started, leaving our traps behind. Arrived at Carl Ritter
Bay 8.15 a. m. .\ugust 24; found cache undisturbed .and in good condition. Doctor Fnvy deposited a
record. It Wtis cloudy when we arrived here, and we only could see about 5 miles to the south ; the channel
is free of ice from Cape Lieber to here, and as far south as we could see. On our way here along the coast
we could see numerous flocks of dovekies, perched on grounded floebergs near shore; I counted 22 on one
berg. Saw musk-ox tracks at Carl Ritter Bay. Vegetation is very scarce around here. The coast has
numerous bends and sharp projecting points, which could not be passed at high tide. At C.a|)e Back we
had difliculty in crossing at low tide. Made camp 3.50 p. m., having made a good day's march. Got up
at 3.30 p. m., started at 9, arrived at Cape Defosses 3.15 a. m.

Aii}^tst 25. — Went in camp 3.45 a. m. Got up 9.15 a. m. Started 9.30 a. m., traveling in the valley.
In going around the last lake on our w.ay back, we went down a r.avine, trying to get in the valley, but we
got to a cascade or small w.atcrfall, which late in the season freezes and then forms a gl.acier on a small
scale- We rolled our knapsacks down ; I then attempted to slide down myself. I made holes in the ice
with a large knife. I went down about 3 feet [0.9"'] when all at once, while I was digging a hole, I slipped
anil went down about 30 feet [9'"] quicker than I can describe it. Doctor Pavy concluded it would be
safer to go around the clifls. I got off" with a slight bruise. Went in camp 4.45 p. m.

Aiigiisf 25. — Got up 9.1 5 p. m. Started 9.30 ; saw 2 musk-oxen .ibout 400 yards [366""] off .about i a. m.
August 26. Arrived at our cache of meat 1.30 a. m., where we made a fine meal of musk-ox veal. We
carried 2 empty beef-cans and some willows for about 15 miles, but we were amply repaid for our labor, as
this is our first warm meal sint:e we left station. The sly Arctic lox visited our meat while we were gone
and nothing would do him but tenderloin. We took about 25 pounds of the meat with us, the rest we
covered with rocks. Arrived at our starting point 4.30 a. m. August 26; made some tea and took a lunch.
We rested a few hours ami at 7.30 a. m. started again for the tent near Cape Baird, at which place we
arrived 9.30 a. m. August 26. Found tent blown down, we pitched it and are (juite comfortable now. I
got up at s p. m. and started toward Cape Lieber across the hills. I found a wide valley here about i
mile north of Lieber, leading to westward. Judging from the way we traveled, I came to the conclusion
that this must be a part of the valley we traveled through. I estimate the distance to where we struck the
valley from 5 to 6 miles; I must state here, that at the point where we first struck the valley on our way to
Carl Ritter Bay the valley turns to east by north. Steam-launch arrived 11.30 p. m. August 26, arrived at
Fort Conger 5-40 a. m. August 27.

Respectfully submitted.

Joseph Elison,
Sergeant, Company E, Tenth Infantry, U, S. A,

First Lieut. A. W. Greely,

Fifth Cavalry, A. S. 0. end Asiistant, Commanding Expedition.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY KXPKDITIOX.

Appendix No. 6o. — Sergeant lirainanVs re/nirl .>/ trip to Carl Ritler Hay.

239

OnicE Chief Signal OrKicKK,

iriisAifijfton, D. C, yutu 25, 1885.

Sir: In accor«lance with your verbal instructiotis of this date, I have the honor to submit the ToHowinK
report of a sicdye journey from Fort Conger to Carl Kilter Hay, during the autumn of i88j, by Dr. I'avy,
Jens Kdward (Kskimo), and myself. This trij) was undertaken for the puriwse of ascertaining the condition
of the ice in Kennedy Channel; to investigate, if possible, the causes of the non-arrival of a relief vessel, and
for general observation :

We left Fort Conger at 7.30 a. m., October 27, 1882 (eleven days after the departure of the sun), with
provisions and ccjuipment for ten «lays, hauled on one of the heavy sletlges by eleven dogs. Temperature,
— 14.0' [—25.6° C). After passing Breakwater Point we shaped our course for Cape Baird, long tletours
being frequently necessary to avoid obstructions in the form of heavy masses of paleocrystic ice, which we.e
founil to have attained great elevations fiom the .ffects of pressure to which the exposed position of the bay
subjected it. Our progress was very slow and difficult. In passing over an unusually rough ])lace the rear
cross-tie of our sledge wiis broken, and we were detained in conse<|uencc for some time. Jens finally repaired
it in a nnjst skillful manner, and we resumed our course. To our great embarrassment we discovered late in
the afternoon that our watch had stopped at 2.40. Judging it to be about three hours later, the time-piece
was set accordingly.

Reached the depot tent near Cape Baird at 7.30, and after a hearty meal proceeded on our journey.
In following the ice foot around the cape we experienced great difficulty in advancing our sledge, owing to
the huge blocks of iue which had been crushed against this point by pressure from the northern pack. 'I'he
gloom and darkness of an Arctic night added to our embarrassment in the selection of a route through the
rough places. Assuming that the route by Cape Liebcr was impracticable owing to ojicn water, we (Wided
to take advantage of the valley explored by llr. Pavy and Sergeant Elison in August, 1882, which extends
diagonally through Judge Daly Peninsula from Cape Baird to Cape Defosses. Moving for a short distance
up this valley, we camped at 1 1.15 p. m., very much fatigued from the eflects of the severe toil of the day.

Oitol'cr 28. — Clear and calm weather, temperature, — 1 7.0° [ — 27.2° C.J. We passed a very comfortable
night so far as the colil weather was concerned, but the dog-skin sleeping-bag furnished me by the doctor
was decidedly too short, and the cramped position in which I was compelled to lie was anything but pleasant
to me. Starting at 7.30 a. m., we at once entered a narrow, tortuous, and reeky gorge with almost vertical
walls and a rough, stony bed which was far from agreeable to travel over. I'he valley soon widened some-
what, and its sides, no longer precipitous, sloped gradually away, ending in low hills. About twelve ^ <l°«
from its entrance at Cape Baird the valley suddenly opened, spreading out in a broad plain at least fi-c t
wide. Reaching the first lake, we found the traveling on its surface to be the best that we had exp-': .... .u
on the trip. The incessant trotting of the dogs, the bright moonlight, and the exhilarating air tended :o
elevate our spirits and render the journey a pleasant and exceedingly interesting one. At 4.15 p. m. we
camped on Lake No. i, near Elison's Slide (so named from his having fallen from a small glacier in the
vicinity), and obtained an excellent supply of fresh water by cutting through 33 inches [838"'"'] of ice.
During the day we had met with many fresh tracks of hares and foxes, and one of the former was seen and
pursued but not captured. When it was observed by the team they at once gave chase under full cry, and
carried us along the rugged course of the valley at an alarming rate of speed. The doctor, who was holding
on to the upstanders, made desperate and gigantic strides to maintain pace with the unruly team, but finding
his efforts unavailing, he loosened his hold at an unfortunate moment and was plunged into an adjacent
snow-drift.

On the 29th the weather was calm and cloudy; temperature, —14.0" [ — ss.CC.j. S'arting at 6.30
a. m. we all rode after the racing dogs over a surface of unparalleled smoothness to the end of the lake.
Owing to the dim and uncertain light we made a mistake by taking a branch valley leading to the west-
ward, and two hours of the best light were unavoidably lost. Having retraced our steps to the proper valley,
we passed two small and two large lakes, and reached the divide at 10.30 a. m. A quick drive of four miles
brought us to the coast just south of Cape Defosses. The narrow ravine which we entered soon after leaving
the divide opened out into a valley of considerable extent, but again narrowed to a rocky gorge until it
was scarcely wide enough to admit the passage of the sledge. Reaching the ice-foot at 12 m., we passed

240

TBB LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

r:h

through a chaotic mass of hummocks and rubble ice, emerging on a smooth floe of newly-formed ice which
Jens said \vas not more than two or three days old. But being over 4 inches [loo'""'] in thickness, we Iclt
perfectly secure, and, jumping on the sledge, the dogs bounded away over the mirror-like surface of the floe
at the rate of six miles an hour. Our course led us across the wide indentation of which Cape Defosses is
the northern, and Cape Back the southern, termination.

The exhilarating and exciting ride in which we had been indulging for son;e time was suddenly brought
to a close by the runners of the sledge breaking through the floe. After much difliculty the sledge was
extricateii, but not until several articles, including sleeping-bags, were thoroughly saturated with water. The
doctor's feet were also wet, but Jens and myself escaped by having our trousers tied tightly down over our
boots. The ice was very thin and not capable of sustaining great weight. It moved with a wave or undu-
lating-like motion under our tread in passing over its surface. We were a mile from shore and in an
extremely hazardous situation. A wrong step, a careless movement, anil we would have been plungetl into
ilie dark, forbidding waters beneath us. Working carefully tow.ards shore, we soon encountered a belt of
rubble ice, in which we found a small paleocrystic floe, on which our tent was pitched. Dark clouds were
overhanging the channel [Kennedy Channel], indicating to us that it was entirely open. The clouds were
of the greatest density and intensity of color in the direction of Cape Lieber. South of Cape Back, how-
ever, the condition of the sky denoted that ice had accumulated there m great quantities.

The weather on the 30th was clear and calm, the temperature only — 2.0° [ — 1 8.9" C.]. This rise of twelve
degrees in the temperature since the night before we attributed to our close proximity to the open water.
Starting at 5.15 a. n: , we at once left our friendly floe and again ventured on the new ice, which Jens pro-
nounced perfectly safe ifter the addition of another ni^iu's frost. The (Greenland coast was visible and
well defined throughout the day, or while the light remained good. Not far from our camp the new ice
terminated in a large pbol of water, which compelled us to take to the ice-foot. Good traveling was alf.irded
here, but in many places the passages were so narrow that we were forced to clamber along the steep slopes
above. Near Cape Back the channel was open to the Clreenland coast and filled with a restless and resist-
less pack, which moved about subject to the c.iprice of the winds and tide. At aboui noon we were sur-
prised to observe a musk-ox (juietly grazing on the gentle slope above us. Taking one of the dogs (which
I was compelled to drag after me), I started in pursuit, but the ox disappearing up a narrow ravine leading
to the interior, I concluded to abandon the chase. While returning to the sledge I found circles of stones,
about 10 feet [3'"] in diameter, on a low tableland overlooking the channel, which had once secured the
summer tents of a wandering tribe of Eskimo. I found no bones which bore evidence of having been
worked among tlie numerous specimens strewed about in the vicinity of these circles. Just north of Cape
Back we saw two cubical-shaped blocks of ice which closely resembled, and without doubt were, icebergs.
They were of the greatest interest to us because of their being farther north than any that we had observed.
We rei;rctteil that lime did not permit us to investigate more fully the structure and origin of these remark-
able blocks of ice. The sky clouded early, and the darkness forced us to camp at 1.15 p. m., on a narrow
ice-foot within a few feet of the water. We had seen numerous tracks of foxes and hares during the day.

On the morning of the 31st the weather was cloudy and threatening. Light westerly wind prevailed,
and the minimum temperature was —4.0° | —20.0° C.]. Light snow fell during the early morning, but ceased
before we were ready to start on our march. Above our camp the clitfs rose in beautiful castellated towers
to a height of over 3,000 ftet [914"], and .it their base was the accumulation of debris which had been
falling from their sides for ages. Starting at 5.35 a. m., we found very good traveling for the first two
hours. At that time we were halted by a formidable wall of ice, which had been heaped along the shore
through the agency of the pack. As it would require hours of constant and patient toil to efl!ect a pauaage
nere for the sledge, we resolved to leave it here in chjirge of the fiiithful native and proceed on foot to Carl
Ritter Bay. After walking along the icefoot for about three miles, we reached the depot und found it in
excellent order. We had been trying to delude ourselves in the belief that we would find triicesof the relief
vessel here, and had pictured to ourselves the surprise and delight of our comrades at Fort Conger when we
returned to thenj with mail fresh from their homes, but nothing to indicate that others h.td visited this spot
was found. The bay was frozen solid from cape to cape, but outside the pack was moving up and flown
the channel under the influence of the tide. To the southward a strong ice-blink was visible. Depositing
.1 record, we returned to the sledge and traveled homeward until 1.15 p. m., when we camped on the narrow
icefoot, not far fiom our previous camping place.

THE LADV FItANKLIX BAY EXPEDITION.

241

We rose on the morning of November i lame, tired, anil unrofrcshed. The creaking and doleful sounds
occasioned by the grinding pack, which was but a few feet away, ilid not tend to proihice sleep- Weather
was cloudy and the temperature —3.0" [ — 19.4^ C]. Started at 5-30 »• nu, facing a strong northeast wind,
which produced disagreeable results. At 10 a. m., while passing the place where we sav the musk-ox on
our outward trip, we were greatly surprised to find another standing in exactly the same place. He w.ns
speedily shot, and a few choice pieces, together with the liver, were taken away. I think the presence of
this animal in that high latitude, and at that season of the year, dissipates completely the theory of the
migration of animals to a lower and more congenial latitude during the winter monlii--. At 2 p. m. we
camped at the entrance to the valley near Cape Defosses. For a long time we had been traveling in almost
total darkness, and in pitching the tent we were compelled to grope about the sledj;e at random for the
articles which were desired. Our dogs had grown very weak uniler the diet of dried t'ish while performing the
hard work which the wretched traveling had imposed on tfiem. These fish, it appeared, were not adapted
for these animals while they were undergoing prolonged exertion.

During November 2 the weather was cloudy, and the wind continued to blow from the northeast as
it had ilone the day before; temperature, —7.0° [ — 21.7° C.J. We started at 5.10 a. m., and reached the
divide at 10 o'clock. By barometrical measurement the altitude was found to be about 450 feet [137"').
At our old camp on the lake we halted to refresh ourselves with a drink of water and a light lunch. Snow
began falling at noon. Our dogs became very weak, and unwilling to advance. We literally pushed the
sledge through the snow without material assistance from them. One of their number (Haby) became ex-
hausted and had to be carrieil on the sledge. Our discomfort was augmented by the snow-storm, which
jjroduced darkness prematurely, and forced us to travel at random. After struggling along through the storm
and darkness until 2 p. m., we acknowledged that we were lost, and went into cami) to await better weather.

Although cloudy on the morning of November 3, the weather was greatly improved over the day
before. Light snow fell at intervals, and the temperature stood at — 8.0" ( — 22.2'' C). Haby was found
dead and stitfly frozen lying near the tent. She was 1. 1 jn with us for future use. Starting at 7.10 ii. m., we
were fortunate enough to "find ourselves" by running across the outwaril tr.ick, which we continued to follow
so long as daylight permitted. The dogs were so weak that we hail intended to travel only to the two musk-
oxen killed by the doctor and Eli.son during the previous August, and endeavor to restore their strength by
giving them a good meal. Hut, on reaching the place, it was found that foxes had stripped every particle
of flesh from the bones of these animals, .so nothing rei lained for us to do except to continue the march.
In order to save the dogs as much as possible, we went ahead of them by turns and selected the best route
jiossible. Camped at i p. m. near the northern entrance to the valley. The amount of snow which had
fallen during our absence was considerable, and the traveling rendered very heavy in consequence. Four
of the dogs were practically useless, and it was with the greatest difficulty that the remainiler drew the
sledge to camp. Baby was cut into sections with an axe, and the pieces thrown to the now half-starved
brute.s. The flesh was greedily devoured by her comrades, apparently without the slightest pang of regret
for the late departed.

Clear weather during No\ ember 4, temperature, —17.0" [ — 27.2° C.J, A brisk northeast wind added
much to our discomfort by frequently fio.sting our faces. Left camp at 4.35 a. m. The dogs appeared but
.slightly better after the feast which the death of poor Haby had furnished them with. No remains of that un-
fortunate animal were found except a fragment of the lower jaw, with a tooth protruding. We reached the
depot tent near Cape Baird at 9 a. m. In view of the wretched condition of the dogs, we decided to
remain here until the following day, to allow them to recuperate their lost strength. Clear weather, and
light westerly winds during November 5; temperature, —34.0° [ — 36.7''C,J. Started from Cape Haird at
6 a. m., the dogs apparently in good condition. We shaped our course diagonally across Lady Franklin
Htiy to the western entrance of Discovery Harbor, in order to avoid, if possible, the rough ice which
we encountered on our outward trip near the eastern entrance. We found the ice eijually as rough, if
not worse, than on the outward journey. Tracks of a large wolf were seen near the southeastern point
of Hellot Island. While passing through the western entrance of Discovery harbor the light became so
uncertain that progress through the broken pack was attended with the greatest danger and difticulty, as
the numerous bruises on our limbs could testify, llniler certain conditions during the Arctic night the light
is such that all outlines and shadows of the hummock ice are lost, and the roughest ice-field presents the
appearance of a perfectly level floe.
H. Mis. 393 10

242

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

We reached Fort Conger at 5.30 p. m., having traveled eleven and one-half hours without halting for
an instant. We were in excellent condition, and could record no accident to ourselves of a more serious
nature than a frosted nose and slightly blistered ears.

I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

D. L. Brainard,

Sergt., Signal Corps, U. S. A.
First Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Fifth Cav., A, S. O, and Asst,, Comdg. L. F. Bay Expedition.

Appendix No. 61. — Orders establishing day of Thanksgiving.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, No7'ember 27, 1882.
(Orders No. 7.)

Thursday, November 30, 1882, being without doubt the appointed day of National Thanksgiving, is
hereby designated as a day ot thanksgiving and praise.

Exemption from death and disease, success in scientific and geographical work, together with the
present possession of health and cheerfulness, may well be mentioned as special mercies for which this com-
mand has reason to be devoutly thankful. , ^

A. W. Greelv,
First Lieut., Fifth Cav., A. S. O. and Asst., Commanding the Expedition.

Appendix No. 62. — Dr. Pavy's letter of March 8, 1883.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, March 8, 1883.

Sir : I have the honor to respectfully submit to you a few considerations that I value of high impor-
tance as concerning the future health of, at least, a part of the command, and therefore aliable [liable] to
influence the chances of success in a retreat that you consider inevitable.

As exposure and labor, at an early period of the season of 1883 may result in grave impairment of the
health ; as also, in case of accident of a serious nature, the patients would probably not have recuperated in
August, becoming then an encumbrance, threatening to compromise the safety of all, by rendering the depart-
ure impracticable, (as in the case of Dr. Kane) I should earnestly recommend that no work entailing expos-
ure of more than a night or two in the field should be undertaken during the month of March.

My personal experience, and the risks run last year by our early parties, with the examples of Dr. Kane
and Sir George Nares, satiesfy [satisfy] my mind as to the dangers to be apprehended from sledging during
the month of March.

As medical adviser of the expedition, I consider it my duty to state, that although the health of the
command has been better this winter than the previous, it will nevertheless not be submitted with impunity
to as much hardship as in 1882. If temporarily, it withstood, it would certainly be at the expense of vital
energies that I think of the highest importance, perhaps of necessity to husband, in view of the future work
of the fall, in which we will have to contend with contingencies that defeated the efforts of Sir John Ross
and the detached party of Dr. Kane's expedition.

I will also, respectfully call your attention while it is still time to the important question of coal ; as it
would be probably injurious to the general health of the command, even perhaps dangerous, in case of
sickness, that we should be left without fuel during the three months previous to our departure.

As to the very important question of foot-gear, I should earnestly recommend (considering the insecure
state of the mocasins \sic\ and Labrador Esquimaux boots) that each man employed in any work entailing
exposure for several consecutive days should be provided with an extra pair of boots or moccasins, the only
appropriate foot-gear at our disposal.

I have the honor to be very respectfully your obt, servant.

Act. Ass. Surgeon Octave Pavy,

To the Commanding Officir.

wiamimmm

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

243

Appendix No. 63. — Lieutenant Greelfs answer to Dr. Pav/s letter 0/ March 8, /8Sj.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, March 9, 1883.

Sir : I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt this day of a communication from you regarding
the future operations of this command.

The letter was undoubtedly called forth by the prospective departure, on March 10, of a party of sixi
with dog-sledges, to establish depots on which depends the success of our geograpuical work in North
Greenland.

You recomme.id therein that the energies of this party be devoted to ensuring such conditions as would
facilitate a retreat by boats — a possible contingency, but not inevitable as you state it.

The grounds upon which you make this remarkable recommendation are but in part medical, and depend
largely on future contingencies, /. e., " the fortunes of war," which may disable some member of tbe party and
so encumber out possible retreat.

You admit that the health of the party has been better this winter than in i88i-'82, • • • •

This expedition was planned and fitted out solely for the purpose of increasing our knowledge of the
Arctic regions. While I have the honor to command it, and as long as I am fit for duty, I shall continue to
pursue the object in view.

In assuming charge of this work I considered it important and dangerous. As an American soldier I
have yet to learn that any prospective dangers or accident should deter a man from pursuing to his utmost
any end which is in the line of one's duty, and instead prepare for a prospective retreat.

To practically abandon it and think only of personal safety, especially at a time when there seem pos-
sible discoveries which would be valued by the world and creditable to my country, would be difficult for
me even under the most adverse circumstances, but now, under favorable circumstances, would appear dis-
honorable and unmanly. Could I for a moment listen to such a recommendation, your mention of Kane's
name evokes to my memory such an example of perseverance under trying and adverse circumstances as
would render such action impossible.

Your recommendations will not be followed in this respect.
I am, sir, respectfully yours,

A. W. Greelv,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S, O. and Assistant, Commanding.

Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Paw, U. S. Army.
[•••••♦••A line and a half wl

ii cannot be made out from the letter-press copy.]

Appendix No. 64. — Lieutenant Lockwood'' s orders for preliminary journey northward.^ iSSj.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, March 8, 1883.

Sir : I have the honor to direct that you continue this spring in North Greenland the work of explora-
tion which was pushed by you in 1882 to Hazen Coast with so much, energy and success. In connection
with the work there will be under your full control three selected men, the two Eskimo with sledges, and
the best twenty dogs.

As has been previously understood the work looks to a preliminary trip to Greenland via Lincoln Bay
the first favorable weather, and subsequently an extended journey of fifty to sixty days' duration, in which
the second sledge will accompany you as far as it can be useful. About 400 pounds of supplies at Polaris
Boat Camp, and 150 pounds at Cape Bryant, cached by you in 1882, will be used during the trip. Dog-
food and other supplies are largely cached at depot A, B, and C, and at Lincoln Bay ; the quantity and
kind at each point you are familiar with.

Your recommendations regarding the sledge ration are in general approved, and when once in the field
it will consist of butter, two ounces ; bread, ten ounces ; sugar, two ounces ; tea, one-half ounce, or choco-
late, two ounces; milk, one-half ounce ; salt, one-third ounce; pepper, one-twentieth ounce; alcohol, sijc

i l1

244

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

ounces j lime-juice, one ounce ; meat, two ounces : one-half the meat will be fresh, and the remainder
divided between sausage, pemmican, bacon, and English beef. The arrangement and carrying out of the
necessary details are left to your judgment and discretion.
I am, respectfully yours,

A. W. Greely,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S, O. and Assistant, Commanding.

Second Lieut. James B. Lockwood,

Twenty-third Infantry, Acting Signal Officer.

Appendix No. 65. — Lieutenant Lockwood'' s report on Journey ordered in Appendix No. 64.

Fort Conuer, Grinnell Land, March iq, 1883.

Sir : I have the honor to render the following report of a preliminary sledge trip to the Greenland coast,
pursuant to your letter oi instructions of the 8th inst.

The outfit consisted of two sledges — Antinnctte and Adola — and teams of ten dogs each ; myself. Ser-
geant Brainard, and Frederik Thorlip Christiansen (Eskimo) with one, and Sergeants Jewell and Elison, and
Jens Edwards (Eskimo) with the other. Rations and dug-food on a liberal basis, for ten days, and also extra
dog-food, &c., for use of the contemplated exploring expedition.

The party left Fort Conger March 10 at 8.40 a. m., and proceeded north along the coast. Depot A
(Cape Murchison) was reachc<l about 12 m. Here additional dog-food, &c., was taken on, making the
draught weight of each team about 930 pounds. The sheep-skin sleeping-bag and rubber blanket were also
taken from here. Continuing on I reached depot B (5 miles south of Cape Beechey) at 4.05 p. m. Ser-
geant Jewell with the second sledge came in half an hour later. The traveling thus far was never better.
We camped here for the night, occupying the depot tent and one of the two tents brought along. The two
sacks of pemmican left here last fall were not to be found. Traces of foxes were found in the tent and
around, and these animals had doubtless eaten the pemmican. Sergeant Elison got sick on the road up,
complaining of pain in the legs, fever, &c. Could do nothing for him but make him as comfortable as pos-
sible in the depot tent where we had a little stove and fire. Weather fine; thermometer very low.

March 1 1 . — Sergeant Elison said he was all right and could go on. Wooley, one of the dogs, was
quite lame and weak, and I left him behind tied to a stake in a hole dug in the snow — leaving him some
hard bread for food. We started at 10.30 a. m., and reached Cape Beechey without event. Here but one
sleeping-bag could be found, of the two 3-man bags left by me last spring. The rubber blanket, two tents
and poles were found. I sent Sergeant Jewell and his sledge back for the two sheep-skin bags left at depot
B and continued on. From an elevation of a hundred feet [30'"] or more, so much rubble-ice was seen in the
straits on a direct line with my objective point, Cape Brevoort, that I decided to continue along the coast
via Wrangel Bay, and possibly Lincoln Bay, with the double object of obtaining the pemmican and meat
expected at those places, and of finding a better route across the strait. In the first object I was partially
disappointed, and in the latter entirely. There was no ice-foot above Beechey, and the straits parallel with
the coast presented little else than heavy rubble-ice. We made slow progress and had to work continuously
with the ax. At 4.35 p. m. we were half way between Beechey and Wrangel Bay. Wishing Sergeant
Jewell to catch up I pitched the tent and sent Sergeant Brainard back with team for half the load which had
been left behind a mile or more. He returned with it at 6 o'clock, and with our help Sergeant Jewell got
up with his team and load at 6.30 p. m. Weather clear but cold.

March 12. — I got up at 7 o'clock and cooked breakfast, and we got off by 9.45 a. m; the traveling
very bad ; floes few and small. We encountered rubble-ice in great quantities all day. Got into shore and
followed along the foot of the high cliffs some distance, but most of the route was some distance out in the
straits. Reached the south cape of Wrangel Bay at 2.30 p. m. The rubble-ice in the bay and to the'north
looked so rough that I determined to proceed hence direct to Cape Brevoort and visit the caches at
Wrangel and Lincoln Bay on my return, when the loads on the sledges would be inconsiderable. I changed
my course accordingly and pursued a laborious way with the constant use of the ax till 5.10 p. m., when the
men being very tired, we camped on the edge of a mass of rubble-ice.

■'Siamimim

MB LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

245

March 13. Sergeant Brainard arose to cook breakfast at 5.30 a. m. Shortly afterwards Sergeant Elison

was reported sick; he had something the matter with his stomach, and had no appetite; felt too unwell to go
farther, but thought he could walk back to depot B by himself. He was evidently too sick for the latter and
I sent him back on the second sledge, giving him a drink of hot rum before starting. Leaving the two
tents standing, I went forward at 8.20 with the first sledge. Sergeant Brainard and Christiansen raking a load
of 600 pounds. After proceeding through the rough ice about i ^ miles, we came to a level floe of new ice,
which was succeeded by an immense floe of ancient ice, gently undulating like a prairie, and affording excellent
traveling. A severe wind from the north acted as an offset to this, however, and frostbites were frequent.
At 2 p. m. we were more than half-way ticross the straits, and leaving the load we returned to camp, reaching
it at 4. 30 p. m. Sergeant Jewell returned about an hour later.

March 14. — At 8.45 a. ;n. the two sledges started forward with everything. On reaching the large floe
referred to, I transferred both loads to Christiansen's sledge and detacht l Sergeant Jewell and team to visit
Lincoln Bay, the traveling thence from this place seeming good, and on his return to visit VVrangel Bay;
directing him to leave what he found in cache at the south cape of the latter. About three quarters of
an hour after passing the rations brought forward yesterday, we came to rough ice -gain. Towards Cape
Brevoort the prospect looked very discouraging, but better farther to the south. Everything considered, I
thought it best to oblique to the right towards Newman Bay. We struggled through some very rough ice
till 5.30 p. m. and then camped. A noticeable feature in the rough ice on both sides the straits was the
snow-drifts running north and south, created and packed hard by the late storms. Thus our course was a
series of zigzags, and the difficulty was in getting from one ridge to another.

March 15. — During the night it blew violently from the south, but the tent being well secured withstood
the storm. At 8.45 a. m. I sent Sergeant Brainard with sledge and driver back for pemmican, &c., remain-
ing behind, and some time later started myself to find a route into the smooth ice of Newman Bay. Inter-
vening, some good floes existed, but between them was rubble-ice, of the worst possible description, entirely
impracticable. It evinced, to my mind, strong currents and heavy pressure. In about one and a fourth hours
I reached the Boat Camp and satisfied myself that the cache in the whale-boat remained intact. I then
proceeded along the foot of the cliffs to Cape Sumner; along the land-foot and snow-slopes there was a sledge
route, but not very good. Between Cape Sumner and the tent I found a good route. Reached the latter at
1.20 p. m. and found Sergeant Brainard just returned. The time till 5.30 p. m. was occupied in transporting
everything to the land-foot, half a mile east of Cape Sumner. The tent was then pitched on the ice opposite
the latter, and then Sergeant Brainard and I walked to the Boat Camp, about i^ miles away, and made a
further inspection. Returned at 8 o'clock, and at 10.30 went to bed. The cache left near Cape Sumner
consists of 175 pounds rations, 804 pounds dog-food, alcohol, rifle, shotgun, field glasses, medicines, &c.

March 16. — I inspected the route direct to Cape Beechey from an eminence at Cape Sunmer, and
determined to return direct, having only constant weights on the sledge (about 100 pounds). We got off
at 7.45 a. m., traveled over smooth, slightly rolling floe-ice for about 7 miles, crossing but two belts of
rubble-ice. After this a succession of the two was met with till near Cape Beechey, but the floes largely
predominated, and the journey from shore to shore occupied just seven hours. Off the coast near Cape
Beechey, and above and below much rubble-ice exists. We reached depot B at 4 p. m. Here I found
Sergeant Jewell and team. Sergeant Elison had left for the station with the lame dog Wooley.

March 17. — We suffered a good deal from cold at night during the trip, though the temperatuie was
high, except for the first day or two. We suflFered especially so last night. Lamp lighted at 3.1 5 a. m., and
at 7 a. m. we were off. At depot A Wooley was found and brought in on the sledge. Privates Schneider
and Whisler, with pup-team, were met near by. Fort Conger was reached at i p. m. One sleeping-bag
(2-man) and a rubber blanket were left at depot B.

The report of Sergeant Jewell is appended.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

J. B. LOCKWOOD,

Second Lieutenant, Iwenty-third Infantry, A. S, O,
First Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Ju/th Cavalry, A. S, O. and Assistant, Commanding.

i (

I-'

^46

Appendix No. 66.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITIOJT.

-Sergeant JczoeW s report to Lieutenant lAKkivood relative to journey
ordered in Appendix No. 6<f.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, March 19, 1883.

Sir: In compliance with your verbal instructions, for me to visit the English cache at Lincoln Bay
and to procure the meat left there, I have the honor to state that upon being detached m ith my dog-team
(Jens Edwards, driver) from your party, at 11.15 a. m. of the 14th instant, I shaped my course as nearly as
the nature of the ice would permit for Lincoln Bay, the point of starting being about 10 miles to the
southeast of Cape Frederick VI I.

The ice for the first few miles consisted of large paleocrystic floes, fringed with heavy hummocky ice
forced up by pressure. As I approached the, Grinnell Land shore these floes became smaller and I was
obliged to make a detour to the south of my direct course. When within about a mile of the shore, I
noticed one floe that was Hground, as shown by the tidal action around it, this indicating much shallower
water than is usually attributed to Robeson Channel, or a much greater thickness to this ice. Not having
the facilities for sounding, I was compelled to forego the elucidation of this very interesting question. By
hard work I reached the cache at 4.15 p. m., having had much trouble to get inside of the heavy ice.

During the night I experienced a heavy gale (southerly), with a brisk wind continuing until morning
(iSth). After breakfast I visited the cache of Dr. Pavy, where I found two boxes of beef; returning with
these, I broke camp at 10.15 a. m., and, thinking that I could improve on my route of the day before,
made more directly for Cape Frederick VII, but soon became badly entangled in very heavy ice that had
been piled up against the cape, which I finally reached at 1 2 m., and then shaped my course along the
coast. But instead of. the smooth new ice I found along this coast a year ago, everything indicated an
immense ice irruption, it being piled up to a great height along the coast to Wrangel Bay. At places I
tried to use the ice-foot, but owing to floe-bergs that had been thrown across it, I found it unreliable, and
considered it to my advantage to travel through the rubble-ice, using the large floes when possible.

I arrived at the cache in Wrangel Bay at 5.45 p. m. but could find no traces of the pemmican left
there in the autumn of 1881. I found one shovel, some canned goods, and the frame of a pair of snow-
shoes, the net-work of the latter having been eaten out by foxes or some other animals. I broke camp at
8.15 a. m. (i6th) and found comparatively easy traveling through the bay. This being noticeable in com-
parison with the character of the ice in Lincoln Bay, the pressure in the latter filling the bay, while in the
former the line of heavy ice was very well marked, extending from one point of the bay to the other.
Caching the meat near the southern point of the bay, in accordance' with your instructions, I followed our
former road to depot B, where I arrived at 2.15 p. m., and was joined by yourself at 4 p. m.

In accordance with additional instructions I left depot B at 8.15 a. m. the next morning (17th) for the
meat cached at Wrangel Bay, reaching that point at 11.30 a. m. ; and, returning again, cached it at the cairn
near Cape Beechey, arriving at depot B at 3.20 p. m. Before retiring I placed all the dogs' harnesses and
lashings inside of one of the empty tents, but the next morning I found to my consternation that the dogs
had got at them, and nothing remained but a few pieces of ivory and the whip-stock; these being spared
by them on account of their indigestible qualities. I, however, found a piece of leather in stock at depof B,
and having a small coil of lashings left, the dexterous fingers of Jens soon fitted us out with eight complete
harnesses. I left the depot at 1.30 p. m., arriving at Fort Conger at 6.10 p. m.

The only animal life seen during the trip was an ermine, about one mile south of Brenta Bay.

Inclosed herewith you will find a report of meteorological observations.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

W. S. Jewell,
Sergeant, Signal Corps, U. S. Armv.

Second Lieut. J. B. LocKwoon,

Commanding North GreenlamJ Sledge Party.

I'AI.EOCKYSTIC It K IN KolllMlN CllANNKI..
(Krom II pliDlograph.)

TUB LADY I?RANKLIN BAY EXPEDITIOK.

247

Rtportofnulforolo^icalobienations taken on

trip to Lincoln Bay.

Date,
1883.

Time.

12 m.

6 p. m.
9 «.m,
8 a.m.

7i .m.
1 I'.m.

Barometer
No 16.

Thermometer.

Wind.

Place of obier/ation.

Obierved.

Minimum.

Direc-
tion.

Force.

Mar. 10.

Mar. 1 1 .
Mar. 12.

Mar. 13.

Mar. 14.
Mar. 15.

Mar. 16.

Mar. 17.

Inchts .
30.10
30.15
29.73
30.00

29.62

mm.

764 53
765.80

7SS-I3
761.99

752-33

Fahr.
-39-1
-43-0
-44.0

"C.

-39-5
—41.7
—42.2

Fahr.

NE...
NE...

NE...

S..

Light.
Light.
Light.
Fresh*

Fresh.
Fresh.
Fresh.
Fresh,
t Brisk.
Light.

'Brisk']

t Fresh.

Light .

Fair.
Fair
Fair.
Fair .

Fair.
Fair.
Fair .
Fair.
Fair.
Fair.
Fair.
Fair .
Fair.
Fair.

Deiwt A .
Depot B.

Do.
Between Beechf y and

Wrangel Hay.
Off Wrangel Bay.
Depot B.
Ofl^ Wrangel Bay.
Lincoln Bay.

Do.
Wrangel Bay.

Do.
Depot B.

Do.

—48.0

—44.4

NE...
NE...

NE...

sw ..
Calm .
NE-
SW ..
s

-35

-37-2

-48. of

—44-4

7 p.m.

8 a.m.
7 p.m.
7 a.m.

3 P-m-
7 a.m.
Sp.m.

29.48
29 -53
29-85
30-10
30.21
30.21
30.10
29.99

748.78
750-05
758-18
764 53
767-32
767-32
764-53
761-73

Warm .
-24.0
-24.0

Warm .
— 3« •
— 3« «

Warm .

* Heavy wind during night.

f Since 9 a.m., nth.

X Onle during night.

Appendix No. 67. — Orders to Lieutenant Lockwood., for exploration of Greenland., iS8j.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, March 23, 1883.

Sir: I have the honor to furnish you with the following instructions for guidance in your contemplated
sledge journey in North Greenland:

Except from unfavorable and unforeseen delays in your return, you will be at Polaris Boat Camp
(Newman Bay, Greenland], not later than May 31st. Should any of the following circumstances arise, you
will return immediately to this station:

If at any time you think you cannot go beyond Lockwood Island, your farthest of 1882;

If the polar pack shows signs of disintegration ;

If you are personally incapacitated for rapid travel;

If any member of your party is badly injured or shows signs of serious illness.

In case o< ""■ ♦emporary disability in the party of the supporting sledge, the disabled man will be left
in a snow-house sufficient bedding, food, and fuel to insure comfort and safety; a second man should

be left with him Ony in case of illness.

You are recommended to watch carefully the condition of the ice in the many fiords you will neces-
sarily cross, and to select only such spots for caches as will certainly be secure and accessible.

Regarding observations, collections, &c., you are referred to the instructions of last season.

Full record and maps will be left in cairn at your farthest. Cape Bryant, and Polaris Boat Camp.

A careful watch will be kept from this point on the condition of the ice in Robeson Channel, and a
sledge will be sent to Polaris Boat Camp late in May. The small boat will be hauled to Cape Murchison
[during your absence], so as to be readily available in case of an emergency, and such other precautions
will be taken as you may suggest before your departure, or in letter by return of your supporting sledge.

The dangers attendant on your trip are obvious and serious. I shall not feel free from anxiety until
your return. While reposing great confidence in your judgment and discretion, I cannot refrain from
cautioning you against more risks than can be possibly avoided. You are the only line and executive
officer on duty with this expedition, and to you the party look in case of accident or disability in my own
person.

Wishing you a safe return, and feeling certain of great success, if favorable circumstances are commen-
surate with your energy and perseverance,

I am, respectfully yours, A. W. Greely,

First Lieut., Fifth Cav., A. S. O. and Assistant, Commanding.

Second Lieut. James B. Lockwood,

Twenty-third Infantry, A. S. O.

248

THE LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Appendix No. 68. — Sergrant Kice's orders for journey to Thank Cod Harbor,

Fort Conner, Grinei.l Land, Af»il 5, 1883.

Sergeant; You are hereby directed to leave this st.ition about April 10, with ten enlisted men and a
dog -ledge, for the purpose of bringl^ig to this point the ao-foot [6"'] English 'ce-boat now at Thank God
Harbor.

In connection with this work you will examine with dog-sledge, April 6, the state of the ice off the coast
between Distant Cape and Cape Murchison, in order to select the best route toward the Greenland shore.

It is expected that the dog-sledge will move your constant weights, and.the energies of your party will
be devoted on the outward journey to making suitable roads for the heavy load of the returning sledge.

The boat will be hauled on the 1 2-man Knglish sledge to be found with it ; lashings for boat and sledge
will be taken from this side. In addition to the boat the three tins of pemmican will be brought to this
point.

Piovisions for ten days will be furnished for your party.

Dr. O. Pavy will accompany the party to look after the health of the men, and his instructions touching
that particular province will be carefully and promptly followed.

You will understand, however, that you are fully charged with the command of the enlisted force, and
that you are responsible for the practical details and successful issue of the journey.

You understand how very important it may be to the interests of this expedition that the boat be safely
and successfully transferred to this coast.

A detailed report, with copy of your sledge journal, will be transmitted me within five days of your
return.

I am, respectfully yours,

A. W. Greely,
First Lieutrnant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O, and Assistant, Commanding Expedition,

Sergt. George W. Rice,

Sif^nal Sendee, U. S. Army,

(Copy respectfully furnished for A. A. Surgeon O. Pavy, U. S. Army.)

Appendix No. 69. — Dr. Pavf s orders for journey., as surgeon., to Thank God Harbor.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Lasd, A/>n7 $, 1883.
Sir: I have the honor to Jidvise you that the sledge party to Thank God Harbor, which you ure to
accompany, will leave this station about April loth, 1883.

The enlisted force will be under the direct command of Sergt. Geo. W. Rice, Signal Service, who has
been ordered to carry out any instructions touching the health of any of the party you may communicate
to him. A copy of his orders is herewith enclosed.

It ap|)ears proper to here note that your anomalous position [results from your] particular report. You
explicitly stated to me that your services would be of use during this trip fon] medical [grounds, and]
that you were unfamiliar with the work to be carried out, and that you would unwillingly assume both medical
and executive responsiMlity,

A full written report will be made within three days after your return.
I am, sir, respectfully yours,

A. W. Greelv,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cav., A, S. 0. and Asst., Commanding,

Actg. Asst. Surgeon O. Paw, U, S, Army,

(One enclosure.)

(The partial illegibility of the letter-press copy renders occasional words doubtful; such words are
bracketed.— A. W. G.)

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

249

Appendix No. 70, — Lieutenant luhkivood^s report on trip to North Greenland.

Fort Concer, Gi^innell Lanh, ApHt 14, 1883.

Sir : I have the honor to render the following report on the operations of the sledge ex|)edilion on the
north coast of Greenland March 27 to April 12, directed by you with the view of continuing the work of
exploration in that quarter.

The ecpiipment consisted of two dog-sledgi s, ten dogs each. With the advance sledge Antoinette,
were myself, Sergt. D. 1,. Hrainard, and Frederik Christiansen (Kskimo). With the supporting sledge Aiiola,
Sergt. W. S. Jewell, Pvt. William A. Ellis, and Jens Edwards (Eskimo). The details of the rations and
e(|uipment are appended.

Afttrch 27 (Fort Conger to Cape lieechey), — At 8.30 a. m. the two sledges (carrying 600 jjounds) left
the station, accompanied by Lieutenant Cireely and pup-team as far as Watercourse Bay. Two wolves were
seen near Distant Cape making their way south. Traveling excellent. Depot A reached in ly^ hours. .\
ptarmigan seen some time before reaching there and several fox tracks near the tent. A fox had entered
the tent since my last visit. Took the two seals from the tent and continued on over an excellent road,
generally speaking, reaching depot A at 1.40 p. m. Here we were delayed forty minutes in adding to the
sledge loads the twO tents left standing since last trip, sixty pounds of hard bread, some chocolate, &c.
Numerous fox tracks around. We reached Cape at 3.55 p. m. and went into camp. Weather overcast
with light south wind threatening snow. Pretty much all of us stiff from the last trip, and we found the
Beechey march not an easy one. Supper finished by 5.30 p. m.

(Hours en route, * ; distance, • .)

March 28 i^Cape Beechey nearly to Cape Sumner). — Sergeant Brainard, cook, arose at 5 a. m. Break-
fast over at 6.10. Found it snowing fast and the Greenland shore invisible. Took on the English meat,
seventy-two pounds, left here ten days since and broke camp at 7.30 a m. Proceeding along the land-
foot a short distance, we crossed the ice wall bordering the shore, and after chopping more or less through
upwards of one-half mile of rubble-ice, gained a level floe and took a direct course for Cape Sumner, inclining
somewhat to the right as we proceeded. The route lay over old-floe ice mostly of great extent, separated
by patches of rubble-ice of a few hundred feet or yards in width generally. The loads being light the dogs
got through the last quite readily after a route for them had been selected, and on the old floes kept up a
trot most of the time. At 4.05 p. m. we were about three miles from Cape Sumner, and all being ([uite
tired I determined to camp. Private Ellis complained of a pain in his side, and he and Sergeant Jewell,
who suffered from a pain in his hip, rode on the sledge over parts of the route. Supper over at 6. 1 5 p. m.

(Hours en route, * ; distance, • .)

March 29 {from off Cape Sumner into Ne^vman Bay^^Kx 5.23 a. m. I got up to cook breakfast. A good
deal of wind during the night, which still continued to some extent. At 6.20 breakfast ready. Weather
overcast. At 8.17 started off, after a delay of about half an hour, on account of several of the dogs being
led off by two of the bitches in heat. The last four dogs were caught one half hour after starting. At 10
'\. m. reached Cape Sumner, after some toilsome work in rubble-ice, in consequence of inclining in towards
shore too soon. The supporting sledge overturned twice. A route was found parallel with the shore, but
some distance out, and the Boat Camp reached in forty-five minutes, after some chopping with the ax.
After ten minutes' delay at the boat we continued on, and at 11.55 ^' •"• stopped on Newman Bay, some
miles onward, towards the Gap Valley overland route, the one selected. Pitching the tents and unloading,
I started back to the Boat Camp, leaving Ellis behind to prepare supper for the i)arty. At the bont I left
Sergeant Brainard to prepare the rations to be taken from her, and continued on along shore to the cache
made 15th March near Cape Sumner. Found the snow slopes much worse since my last visit. Fox tracks
were seen near by, but fortunately the cache remained untouched, having been pretty well concealed by us
with ice and snow. We contimed on to Cape Sumner with the contents of the cache and returned to the
Boat Camp via the floe. Here, taking on the rations prepared, we all returned to the tents at 4.42 p. m.
The ice of the bay up to this point consists mostly of old floes (many with blue tops), separated by narrow
belts and ridges of hummocks and rubble-ice. The last, as usual, is abundant near shore. On the floes
themselves was little snow and the traveling was excellent. Some time after supper was spent in taking
meats out of cans, &c., and issuing to the supporting sledge sixty rations, which would enable them to be

* Omission in original. — A. W. G.

250

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

:i Ii

absent 3o clays from the Boat Camp and allow the advance sledges 48 days' absence, with 144 rations
remaining'. The small seal, weighing twenty-eight pounds, was fe<l to the two teams, but strange to say the
dogs did not take to the meat very naturally.

Afanh 30 [from camp mar Boat Camp to Iirevt>ort PeniiisHia). — At 5.07 a. m. Sergeant Brainard got
up to cook Ijreakfast ; ready in an hour. Morning clear overhead, but cloudy around the horizon. A light
snow falling; Jewell and Kllis feeling stiff. At 8 a. m. started /•// route with everything, about 1,100 pounds
to e:'<:h team. We got through two or three patches of rubble-ice with little difhculty, and then came to
the smooth, new ice oi the bay, covered with only a little snow. At 9.50 reached mouth of gorge, and each
sledge, throwing off half its load, i)repared for the toilsome journey through this narrow cafion. This gorge
has steep snow-drifts, from twenty to fifty feet [^i to 15'"] high, up three of which roads were nia<le with ax
and shovel, and the whole force concentrated on one sledge at a time, pulling and pushing inch by inch.
A road-bed was cut around the flank of the fourth, it being notliing but a deep pit, probably 20 feet [6"')
deej). The height of the others was about the same, except the one at the end of the gorge, which was
two or three times that, but the incline not so steep. The roof of an ice grotto was cut through. A large
grotto, occupying the whole bed of the stream, was found beyond it. At 2.25 p. m. the tents were pitched
on the divide, out of the gorge, and the empty sledges started back with every one, except Sergeant Jewell,
to bring up the remainder of the loads, 'i'he mouth of the gorge was reached in just twenty-five minutes,
and at 4.40 p. m. we were at the tents once more. The locality not looking in all respects familiar, I walked
to an elevated ridge, some three miles to the north, after supper. From here I could see the north shore
and set at rest all doubts. The barometer gave me an elev.ition of 500 feet liss""] above camp; the latter
is about the same above the sea-level. Got to bed at 9 p. m.

Manh 31 {from divide to mouth of Gap I'alliy), — Called Sergeant Jewell at 4.20 a. m., and got up
myself an hour later to cook breakfast. I directed Sergeant Jewell to leave his tent standing and send
Jens with empty sledge back to last camp for a can of lime-juice pemmican he had accidentally left behind.
Morning fine, clear, and calm. At 7.35 a. m. advance sledge started down the valley, carrying its entire
load. Traveling very good on hard snow. After ))roceeding i y^ hours we were obliged to double up
through the narrow gorge into which the valley had here diminished. Soon after we entered the head of
the witle da]) Valley, proper, and were able to haul everything at once to the sea-coast. Reaching the latter
at I o'clock we turned east and proceeded one-fourth of a n.ile, when we were stopped by the close approach
of the ice wall lining the sea-coast, to the foot of the cliff forming the east cape of Gap Valley. Here, for
the eighth of a mile, a great deal of labor was expended In cutting through. By 3 p. m. we had got the
sledge and half-load through this place, and Christiansen and I continued on with it upwards of two miles,
finding the traveling very good. Got back at 4 o'clock, and stoppetl for the night. The supporting sledge
arrived half an hour later. Sergeant Jewell and YX\\% suffering a good deal from pains in the groin and
side, respectively. Noticed a good deal of new ice along shore.

April I {Gap I alky to Black Horn Cliffs). — At 5.20 a. m. Sergeant Brainard got up to cook break-
fast. Both sledges off by 8.08. As the advance sledge had half its load already through the cutting, we
parted company again with the supporting sledge. Reaching the half-load advanced the day before, we
continued on with everything, but were delayeil fifty minutes, just before reaching Repulse Harbor, by
having to relash the sledge. Just north of the Knglish cairn at the latter place, we found the location of
the English depot of rations, and in it a sextant, flag, cooking lamp, old articles of clothing, &c. After a
short delay the advance sledge started on. The supporting sledge had, in mean time, come up, but delayed
to relash. It was necessary to follow round the shore of the harbor. The traveling from here on to the
Black Horn Cliffs was excellent. The snow of the snow slopes about Drift Point was hard, and slopes
easy. Along this coast the wall of rubble-ice and floe-bergs is not generally so high and imposing as last
year. Outside a great deal of smooth, young ice was seen and many leads, apparently lately frozen over,
stretched to the north and northwest. One running northeast was in particular noticed, which seemed
several miles long. Fox tracks seen in several places along the shore. From the elevation of Drift Point
was seen a continuous belt of young ice, a hundred yards [91™] and more wide, between the Polar pack
and the shore. Many water-holes and small cracks were seen in it. Thick water clouds were seen to the
north. The separate floes of the Polar pack were often fringed with walls of "pushed-up" rubble-ice whose
shining green sides and edges indicdted recent pressure. At 4.45 p. m. we camped just beyond mouth of
gorge, the first to the east of Drift Point, the steep slope at the foot of the bluflfs which here mark the west
end of the cliffs, making further progress by land impracticable. This is the usual place for taking to the
floe. The supporting sledge came up three-quarters of an hour later.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

251

April 2 {at Black Horn Cliffs). — Arose at 4.50 a. m. and lighted lamp. Breakfast in an hour. We had
but little sleep on account of .he cold. A little before 7 o'clock I started with .Sergeant Urain.iid and Chrisi-
tiansen, without sledge, to find some way of j^etting on the outside floe or of following along the foot of the
cliffs. First we examined the young ice bordering shore and found that a stone woulil go through almost
anywhere and that the space of open water along shore was continuous. We then followed along a steep
incline covered with stones, and finally were obliged to climb along the top of the ice wall. We got about
a mile from camp, when we encountered a very steep drift sloping from a break in the cli'i^ overhead to the
water at the foot. Beyond this the route seemed even worse. We here made an attempt to as< end the
cliffs, but after gaining a considerable elevation by cutting steps w; the snow I gave it up, principally on
account of the certainty of falling into the water should one of us slip. A route along the foot of these cliffs,
if possible at all, was certainly impracticable under the circumstances, and in any event would have involved
many days' hard work and great risks. Sergeant Brainard pronounced it entirely im|)ra<ti(:able. It was
impossible to get round the cliffs as done last year. To follow along their base seemed almost eiiually so.
After returning to camp and drinking some tea, I started out again with Sergeant Brainard to dibcover, if
possible, an overland route. During my absence Sergeant Jewell was tlirccted to make tidal observations
by means of the rod brought along for the purpose. The gorge at whose mouth we were encamped pre-
sented the only inlet into the interior. This we followed up, meeting a high steep snow-drift and a variety
of smaller drifts, rocks, &c., for three-quarters of an hour, when we came to a branch stream, a tleep, narrow
ravine from the southeast. Following up this three-quarters of an hour we came to what seemed its end,
at a glacier-like formation of ice, over 100 feet [jo""] high, covered with snow, and very steep. The green
edges of the ice cropped out in several places. The only means of ascending it would be by cutting steps
for the purpose. We climbed up the rocky side to the north and found ourselves on a stony plateau.
Proceeding about lyi miles east we gained an elevated ridge 1,300 feet [396'"! high by barometer. The
main stream-bed we had ascended continued south till lost in a chain of mountains running cast and west
probably a half dozen miles from the sea. The branch we had ascended apparentiv ended in the little
glacier referred to. To the east of the last was an undulating plain sloping gently north and south, and
forming a surface drain which gradually narrowed to a gorge, and after continuing e.ist some miles then
turned north, and apparently met the sea at " Rest Gorge " east of the cliffs, and where ! camped April 25,
1882. A huge formation of ice or snow could be seen at the bend of this stream, to the north. From the
hill the appearance of the ice was much the same as observed from shore, only more extensive — a series of
floes separated by what seemed new ice and fringed with " pushed-up " rubble-ice. One clearly defined
lead ran northwest towards Cape Joseph Henry. Misty clouds all along the northern horizon. Reached
camp by a direct course and found every one walking vigorously vn and down to keep warm. Air clear
and calm but very cold. Supper at 6; turned in at 7 p. m. Sergeant Jewell continued his tidal observa-
tions till midnight and declined assistance — an extremely severe oril^al under the circumstances.

April ^ {at Black Horn Cliffs)., — At 5.10 a. m. called Sergeant Brainard, cook. Breakfast at 6 a. m.
Morning overcast, light wind. At 7.50 a. m. started up the gorge with' Sergeant Brainard, Christiansen, and
Ellis. On reaching branch ravine, the only one this stream seemed to possess, I sent Sergeant Brainard
forward with Christiansen to examine the glacier more closely, and to examine the country beyond, could any
way be found of surmounting the glacier in any reasonable time. With Private Ellis I continued south,
hoping to find some other opening towards the east. My course led me directly south till, not far from the
mountains, I gained an elevation on the west side which commanded the ravine as far south as the moun-
tains. Not an inlet of any kind presented itself from the east. The stream broke through the mountains
from a southwest direction, and its bed was full of many large snow drifts. En route back I met Sergeant
Brainard who reported that he had ascended the glacier by cutting one hundred and fifty-two steps in the ice,
that beyond it the branch ravine still continued, but a wall of ice some 12 feet [3.6™] high would have to be
surmounted, and that on getting out on the divi'de he found a stone covered plain some quarter of a mile
across. He regarded advance in that direction so impracticable that he went no farther. He thought it
would take two weeks at least to get everything round to Rest Gorge (if it were possible at all); Christiansen
fixed on ten days. In this ravine several ptarmigan and fox tracks were seen. The bed of the stream seemed
to be a mass of ice, as shown by a grotto we met and seeing ice in other places. Returning to camp, all
difficulties of advancing seemed to be set at rest by finding the young ice getting thicker rapidly and prom-
ising to bear in the morning. I went out a hundred yards [gi"] from shore and it easily bore my weight.

'f^

252

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAT EXPEDITION.

111

though bending in places and readily giving way to a single blow of the ax. Later in the day Christiansen
])ronounced it all right, and an approach was cut thiough the ice wall below camp for the sledges in the
morning. Weather very cold; difficult to keep warm. Supper at 6.30 p.m. and in bags by 8. Sergeant
Jewell up for several hours later, making tidal observations.

/1/ri/ 4. — At 6.50 a. ni. I lighted lamp for breakfast. At 9.45 a. m. I took all five sacks pemmican on
advance sledge, leaving the supporting party packing up. Feeling uncertain as to thickness of the ice, the
tent, &c,, was left behind. The crack near shore was slightly wider, but by throwing in masses of ice the
sledge and load went readily over to the new ice. We got several hundred yards out from shore, and
towards the east, when Christiansen saying the ice was " all right," I directed Sergeant Brainard to proceed
ahead with the ax ; while the pemmican having been thrown oH", the empty .sledge returned to camp for the
rest of the load. When almost ashore two or three of the dogs went in the water, and I suddenly perceived
that the ice was moving off short . Leaving Christiansen to find a route ashore, 1 started after Sergeant Brain-
ard, but was speedily overtaken by the dog-team, which went at once on a galloi> after Sergeant Brainard.
About 100 yards [91'"] from our crossing a small cake of ice was jammed by the moving ice close against a
little promontory of rubble, the only place where there was not several yards of open water already. Here
I climbed out and up, and brought the dog-team wlien it arrived a few minutes later. The ice moved up
the coast (east) as well as out, and holding the little cake in position, the sledge, dogs, one by one, and
j)emmican were saved. The last sack of the latter went in the water, but was afterwards fished out as it
floated. Soon there was a belt of open water 100 yards [91"'] ami more in jjlaces along shore, and in two
hours the ice had moved 200 yards [iS2"'J to the east. A hummock which I had sighted April 1, a mile or
more distant, had changed its angle considerably to the east. A seal made his appearance in the open
water. Seeing little chance of getting overland, the loaded sledges were turned westward, and at 12.30 we
started back, but at Drift Point met so severe a wind from the south, with drifting snow, that the tents were
again pitched just beyond. Several slight frost-bites occurred.

A/>ri/ J. — In tents storm-bound all day,

April 6 (from )icar Drift Pohit to Gap Valhy). — During the storms I determined to attempt the over-
Kind route, discouraging as it seemed, t.iking the sledge to pieces and carrying it and the load up the glacier
and over the stony ground and other obstacles bc/ond by hand. The storm continued during the forenoon,
but then tlying away we packed up, after forty-^ hours in the .sleeping-bags, and took up the march to the
east again. Shortly after this, seeing a wide k';ul of open water to the west, I halted to survey the .scene.
The pack was .separated from the shore up and down, as far as the eye could r^ach, by the belt of ojjen water,
perfectly clear of ice, which, from 200 yards [182"'] to half-mile [804'"] wide, extended to the west in the
direction of 1 .incoln Bay, and expanded into a witle sea from three to five miles wide. The ice to the south
seemed to make a straight boundary on that side, but on the north to curve round in a great circle as it
neared the CJrinnell shore and then to stretch northward. I looked at it attentively through the fielil glasses,
and it had every appearance of extending all the way across the straits. The [main | pack was moving rapidly
to the east, as was plainly apparent on aligning any part of it with an object on shore. To the north several
large leads of water were seen in the distance and smaller leads nearer to us. Dark, misty clouds hung
about the northern horizon. Under the clause of my orders regarding "signs of disintegration in the Polar
pack," 1 did not feel authorized in making any further attempts to proceed, and so reluctantly turned about
to return to this station. In that vicinity we noticed and examined a large floe-berg, with very clearly defined
strata. A dozen parallel lines were counted, ranging from the top half-way down. The berg was about 40
feet [n'"] high, and about the same in its other dimensions. On reaching Repulse Harbor the sextant, flag,
&c. [cached in 1876 by Lieutenant Beaumont, R. N.], were put on the sledge; a record deposited in the
cairn. The open water here was wider, leads to the north still (juile plain, water clouds, &:c. The open
water crossing the straits seemol to take more the direction of Black Cape. Reached mouth of Clap
Valley at 6 o'clock and camped, Ellis complaining of pain in his side again.

April 7 [in camp at mouth of Gap ralliy). — Tiie rod was set in a low place in the ice wall opposite
camp and the day devoted to tidal observations, some hours' work being first performed to clear a place.
The rod both here and elsewhere was thus fixed : At low water the ice was cut away from the crack as low
down as could be reached readily. A sledge slat was then inserted horizontally in the ice wall, and at such
a heiglit that full ti<le nearly touched the slat. To the end of the slat thus placed the rod was lashed some
half-dozen feet [about 2"'] above its lower end (/. <•. about midway). It was held thus perfectly fast. The
top of tiie rod was aligned with two objects on the ice wall, either on the plank or in rear, to give warning

i4l

M -0

Chart showing

Route of Si.kikje Exi-edition,

Mar. 27 TO Ai'R. 12, 1883.

Scali- uf Mik's

■ '

t 10 13 to

M"_a)

im^MijiiMiW ^a

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

253

of any movement in the ice wall itself. This was a hardly necessary precaution. At 8.25 a.m. I sent
Sergeant Brainard and Ellis with the two sledges to advance the heaviest halves of our loads as far as possi-
ble. The sergeant reached Newman Hay in four hours and returned in two (/. c. at 2.25 j). m.). A cold
wind with drifting snow sprang up in the evening niakiiig Sergeant Jewell's observations most trying, especially
as he could hardly walk on account of the pain in his groin.

April 8 {iiorth end of Gap Valley to Cape Siininer), — Got up at 6 a. m. and called other tent at 7 o'clock.
An ice hummock sighted yesterday some distance from shore has since moved to the right several degrees.
A large, dark mass of vapor observed up the coast to the east, looming up like a huge cliff. At 9.43 a. m. got
off. Found it necessary to carry Ellis on sledge part of the way. Sergeant Jewell very lame. Reached top
of divide in 2^^ hours, and Newman Bay at i.io p. m. Here the loads advanced the day before were
taken on. At 5.30 p. m. went into camp off Cape Sumner. Some time spent before and after supper in
cutting away the ice for tide rod. Got to bed at 1 1 p. m.

April g (in camp at Cape Sumner), — Some more cutting early this morning finished the tide hole, after
which, leaving Sergeant Jewell in camp, the rest of us proceeded to the boat camp and took from the boat
pretty much everything except the sails, oars, &c., and turning the boat bottom up before leaving deposited
a record in the cairn. Sergeant Jewell saw a white owl fly overhead towards the east. The tidal observa-
tions continued during the day.

April 10 [Cape Sumner to camp on straits). — At 5.50 a. m. got up and lighted lamp. Did not call the
other tent till after 6 o'clock., Sergeant Jewell having been up till after midnight of the 9th taking observa-
tions. At 9.35 a. m. got off; Sergeant Brainard ahead with the ax; both sledges very heavily loaded. On
this account we worked through the rubble-ice, only with great labor. We were fortunate in being able to
follow trail made coming out. Encountered a very cold south wind. Camped at 3.35 p. m.

April II [camp on straits to depot B). — Got little sleep, and Seigeant Brainard arose and lighted lamp
at 3.50 a. m. Off at 7.20, following old roads. The dogs did very well to-day in the rubble-ice, and we
traveled, as yesterday, without "doubling up." At 12.20 p. m. advance sledge was inside the ice wall just
above Cape Beechey. Snow on this coast much increased in depth and. quite soft. Beautiful circle around
the sun and mock-suns observed. At 2.50 p. m, reached depot B, and pitched tents. Sergeant Jewell and
Ellis almost worn out.

April 12 (depot B to Fort Conger). — At 5 a. m. I got up to cook breakfast, whicii was ready in an hour;
off at 8 a. m.; at 11.40 a. m. reached depot A and stopped twenty-five minutes; numerous fox .and hare
tracks about; traveling by no means good — in soft snow; reached Fort Conger at 3.42 p. m.

I would respectfully state in conclusion, that the conduct of those under my orders was all that I could
wish. Sergeant Jewell and Private Ellis, though suffering daily from strains incurred during former trips or
during this trip, bore up manfully. Sergeant Jewell's zeal in tid.al observations in low temperatures and cold
winds call for my hearty commendation. Sergeant Brainard showed himself as energetic, zealous, and intel-
ligent as ever, and was my main stay. The two Eskimo I would also call to your favorable otice ; Chris-
tiansen in particular showed himself willing, capable, and energetic.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

^ B. Lock WOOD,
Second Lieutenant, Twenij third Infantry, A. S. O.

First Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Asst., Commanding.

I if

254 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

APPENDIX. - ,.

Distance traveled.

Geographical miles.

Fort Conger to Cape Beechey 23

Cape Beechey to Boat Camp 25

Boat Camp to north side Newman Bay 7

North side Newman Bay to Repulse Harbor IS

Repulse Harbor to Black Horn Cliffs 9

On return 79

Total (doubling up and foot journeys rtot included) 158

Constant weights, advance sledge.

Pounds.

A tent, poles and pins, 36 pounds ; rubber blanket, 9^ pounds ; lamp, 5 pounds ,. 50^4^

Buffalosleeping-bag (two-man), 23ji pounds; dogskin sleeping-bag (one-man), 12^^ jwunds. 35^
• Ax, 6^ pounds; spade, 5)^ pounds; sextant, 3 pounds ; artificial horizon and mercury, 6^

pounds ~. 2'^

Telescope, 3^ pounds; field glasses, 3 pounds; compass, i pound T)^

Rific, 1 1 iK>unds ; ammunition, 4 |x>unds ; two pairs snow-shoes, 6 pounds ; tide rod, 4^

pounds 25)^

Extra lashings, 4^ ixjunds ; medicine, 5 ix>unds 9^4

Three clothing bags, 36 pounds; cook's bag, 16^ pounds; store-bag, 18^ pounds 70^^

220>^

Weight of sleiige 109

Constant uieights, supporting sledge.

Pounds.

A tent, ]X)les and pins, 36 ]X>unds; buffalo sleeping-bag (three-man), 38^ pounds 74/4

Rubber blanket, 6^ ])Ounds ; one lamp, 6^ [Kmnds; one small lamp, \^ ]X>unds 14^^

Ax, spade, snow-shoes (one pair), 13^ pounds; shot-gun .md ammunition, 12 ]X)unds. ^S/i

Extra lashings, 4^ [rounds; three clothing-bagi., 36 pounds; cook's bag, 11^ pounds 51^^

I6SJ<

(Medicine, 5 pounds) ; sledge _ ._ 109

274^
Many of these weiglits would have b en reduced by leaving en cache as we proceeded.

Two seal-skin temiaks not included in above.

Dog-food.

Pounds.

Salt pork (taken from station) 85

Two seals (taken from depot A) 78

Dried meat, .seal, and musk-ox, from cache near Cape Sumner 225

Pemmican, five sacks, from cache near Cape Sumner 579^

Lime-juice pemmican, from whaleboat at Boat Camp . 40

Pemmican, English, and lime-juice, to have been taken from Cape Bryant 100

1, 107 >i
Consumed all except that at Cajie Bryant and the five sacks brought back to station. Amount consumed, aoj
|x)unds.

Taken out of whale-boat at Boat Camp, March 29.

Pounds.

Corned beef, one can _ 2

Beans, one can 2^

Potatoes (English) 14

Sugiir (all) _ _. 14

Alcohol . 63

Butter, eight cans 24

Bread, one bag ..... .... 60

Six balls wicking, and one English snow-knife. Total..... .. . '79^

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

255

One ration equals —

Ounces,

Musk-ox meat, sausage, English beef, corned beef, bacon — 22

Butter - ■ a

Hard bread lo

Potatoes, beans - 4

Tea (or chocolate, two ounces) o^

Sugar — 2

Milk -.. 'oyi

Salt -. - oy^

Pepper t^s

Alcohol . 6

Total ration 47U

Appendix No. 71. — Sergeant JewcW s report on tidal and meteorological observations made on

trip to North Greenland.

Fort ' viiER, Grinnell Land, April 15, 1883.

Sir: I have the honor, herewith, to transmit report of itaal observations taken by me at the following-
named points on the Greenland coast, viz: Near the southwest extremity of the Black Horn Cliffs, April 2
and 3; about 5 miles southwest of Repulse Harbor (at the northern entrance of Gap Valley), April 7, and
at Cape Sumner, April 9 arid 10, and meteorological observations made during the journey.

The series taken at the first-mentioned station, on the 2d, although showing the flow, are not definite
as to the high and low tide, but, as the range disagrees with that afterwards observed, I am led to the con-
clusion that there was a movement in the gauge that influenced the readings. Upon taking the 8 p. m.
observation of that date I found the gauge had been forced up by a piece of ice from below. I then
enlarged the tide hole, cleared il from ice, and froze the support to the gauge solidly into the permanent ice
wall. The readings thereafter were perfectly satisfactory.

The readings at Gap Valley were without a flaw, the gauge being frozen into the ice wall as at first
station, and its position was carefully verified at short, intervals by means of two points bearing on it, and no
movement detected.

The exposure at Cape Sumner was as good as could possibly be obtained, the gauge being at the
extreme point of the cape, secured as at the former stations, and its position verified as explained above.
The readings were carefully made and the results all that could be desired. I would state that the greatest
care was taken with these observations, especially for at least an hour before the tiun of the tide, at which
times the gauge was under constant surveillance, and all changes noted.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

W. S. Jewell,
Sergeant, Signal Corps, U. S, A

Lieut. J. B. LocKwooD,

Commanding North Greenland Sledge Farty.

256

THE LADY FRANKI IN BAY EXPEDITION.

Tidal observations, southwest extremity of Black Horn Cliffs.
[Date, April 2, 1883.]

!li

Wasliint^on mean

Washiiigt

on mean

1
1

Washington mean

Wasliingt

in mean

time.

Gauge.

1 time.

I
(jauge.

time.

Gauge.

time.

Gauge.

Observed.

(^orrecteU.

Iiithcs.

Observed.

Corrected.

Observed,
r. M.

Corrected.

Observed.

Corrected.

A. M.

r. M.

I'. M.

Inches.

1'. M.

Inches,

P.M.

1'. M.

Inches.

11.5s

I'SS

28.7

1.00

1. 00

27-S

4-3°

430

27.1

730

7-3°

28.3

1.30

27.2

445

44S

27.2

8.00

27.8

12.00

28.6

2.00

27.1

5.00

27.2

8.26

26.8

1'. M.

' 2.30

2.30

27.1

51S

5 'S

i7.2

8.45

25.8

12.02

28.5

3.00

273

5-30

530

27-3

9.00

25.6

12.06

28.3

' 3-3°

3-30

27.0

6.00

27.8

9.15

9>S

25.0

12. 10

28.0

4.00

26.8

6.30

28.1

9-3°

24.4

•2.4S

«245

27-7

! '^'^

4«S

27.0

7.00

28.4

[Date, April 3, 1883.]

■ 1*

A. M.

Inches.

A. M.

Inches.

P.M.

p. M.

Inches.

P. M.

p. M.

Inches.

7.10

7. 10

31-8

925

9- 25

32.2

1.30

239

327

22.9

7.20

32.0

9-45

3'-8

1.45

1-45

235

3-37

22.9

7-25

32.5

10.00

l^l

2.00

23.2

4.00

23.0

7.3«

32.7

10.15

Tfil

2.10

23.0

4.22

233

7-47

32 -9

10.30

30.2

213

2.13

23.0

4.40

24.0

753

330

10. 45

10.45

29.7

2.17

22.8

5.00

24.6

8.00

tH3

33 I

ii .00

11.00

29.5

2.20

22.8

5 -.30

530

255

8.05

li ^

11.15

29.0

2.25

22.7

6.50

29 -3

8.10

33'

11.30

28. 5

2.30

22.6

7-3°

730

30-9

8.17

•7

33-2

II 45

11.45

28.0

2-35

22.6

7-45

3'-3

8.22

li-7,

2.41

22.7

8.00

31.8

8.27

.«-3

12.00

27.3

2-45

2.45

22.8

8.08

32.0

8.35

33-4

p. M.

P. M.

2.51

22.8

8.15

32.0

8.39

ili

12.15

2b. 7

2-57

2.57

22.8

8.21

32.1

8.42

33-2

12.30

26.4

305

22.7

8.27

32.2

8.47

33-2

12.45

25.6

3.10

22.7

8.32

32.3

8.51

33-2

I .00

1.00

24.9

3'S

315

22.8

8.39

32.2

8.54

33'

I 15

• IIS

24. s

3.20

22.8

8.45

31.8

9.07

32.8

Rkmarks. — The gauge consisted of the three joints of a signal-staff, graduated in inches. This was lashed securely to a
hardwood slat of the dogsledgc. An excavation was then made in the permanent ice wall, in which the opposite end of the
slat was inserted, and secured by weighting with ice, the end of the rod passing into the water through the tidal crack, which was
al)out 15 inches [380"""'] wide. There was no known disturbance in the position of the gauge until 8 p. m. of the 2d, when it
was found to have been disturbed by a piece of ice from below lifting it slightly. The end of the slat was then frozen solidly
into the ice wall, and no other disturbance took place during the series. At the place of observation there were no coast indenta-
tions or other local influences liable to affect the free flow of the tide.

i I

■■^;'p:^yihfM-i:aT|'iTilhVlttffligg;tgS

THE LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

257

Ttdal obsavations, Notth Greenland coast, about five miles southwest of Repulse Harbor {^northern entrance to

Gap Valley).

[Date, April 7, i88j.]

Washin^lon mean

Washingt

on mean

Washingt

on mean

Washingt

on mean

time.

Gauge.

time.

Gauge.

time.

Gauge.

time.

Gauge.

Observed.

A.M.

Reduced.

Observed.

Reduced.

Observed.

Reduced.

Observed.

Reduced.

A. M.

Inches.

A.M.

Inchts,

r. M.

I'. M.

Inches.

V. M.

1'. M.

Inches.

6.45

6.46

45.8

11.04

11.05

83.1

4.00

4.01

369

6.00

6.01

30.9

7.10

7. II

49.2

II. 14

II. IS

82.8

4-15

4.16

34-7

6.30

6.31

32.8

725

7.26

5'-7

11.30

11.31

81. s

4.22

423

34- •

7.00

7.01

35.8

7-45

7.46

550

1 1. 45

II .46

80.1

430

4-31

11-^

730

7-3«

39.0

8.00

8.01

57-9

1'. M.

4-35

4- 36

32.6

• 8.00

8.01

45.2

8. IS

8.16

61 .0

12.00

12.01

78.7

4.40

4.41

32.2

1 8.30

8.31

50.9

8.30

8.3«

64.0

I'. M.

4-45

4.46

31.8

1 9.00

9.01

57.8

8.45

8.46

67.0

12.15

12.16

76.7

4-5°

4-5«

3'S

930

9.3«

63.8

9.00

9.01

69.8

12.30

17.31

74-4

4-55

4-56

7>^i

10.00

10.01

70.0

9'5

9. 16

72.8

12.45

12.46

71.8

500

5.01

31.0

10.30

10.31

74-5

930

9-3«

75-2

I. 00

1. 01

68.8

5.05

5.06

30.8

11.00

II. 01

78.7

9-45

9.46

78.7

I. 15

I. 16

65. 7

5.10

5. II

30.6

: 11.05

11.06

79.0

10.00

10.01

80.0

1.30

I3I

62.6

5'S

516

30.6

j 1 1. 10

II. II

79.2

10.15

10.16

81.6

1-45

1.46

60.0

5.20

5-21

30.6

II. 15

11.16

79.5

10.25

10.26

82.1

2.00

2.01

S7.I

525

5-26

.30.5

11.20

II. 21

79.8

ip.30

10.31

82.3

2'S

2.16

54.8

5-30

5-3"

30-5

11.26

11.27

79-8

'0-3S

10.36

82.8

2.30

2.31

SI. 6

5-35

536

30.6

II. 31

11.32

799

10.40

10.41

83.0

2-45

2.46

48.9

5.40

5-41

30.6

"•35

11.36

79-7

10.45

10.46

83.2

3.00

3.01

45-5

5-45

5 46

.30.7

11.40

11.41

79-7

10.50

10.51

83.2

3'5

316

43-7

5-50

551

30.7

11.45

11.46

79.6

>o-5S

10.56

83.1

3-3°

3-3«

41.2

S-5S

5-56

30.8

11.50

11.51

79-3

11.00

II. 01

83.0

3-4S

3.46

389

Remarks. — The gauge consisted of the three joints of a signal staff graduated in inches. This was ex|X)sed on shore ice
suspended on a strong hard-wood slat (from dog-sledge) to which it was securely lashed. This slat was frozen solidly into the
permanent ice walls. The |X)sition of the gauge was verified by the observer constantly by means of two fixed points bearing
on the gauge. I'o.sition of the gauge on straight line of coast free from all indentations. At 5.25 p. m. a light swell was noticed
in tide hole which continued during the rest of the observations, caused by a strong southwest wind acting on a body of open
water lying between Repulse Harbor and Lincoln Bay.

Tidal observations, extreme point of Cape Sumner, North Greenland coast.
[Date, April 9, 1883. Latitude, about 81° 55' N. ; longitude, about 60° 45'' W.]

Washington mean

time.

Gauge.

time.

Gauge.

time.

Gauge.

time.

Gauge.

Observed.

Reduced.

Observed.

Reduced.

Obser>'ed.

Reduced.

Observed.

Reduced.

A. M.

Inches.

W M.

p. M.

Inches.

p. M.

1'. M.

Inches.

p. M.

V. M.

Inches.

^■ii

8" 34.5"'

60.0

12.09

I2''I0.5'n

100.6

3.30

3''3>.5'"

66.9

6.41

6'>42.5m

40.6

9.05

9 06.5

70.1

12.12

«2 135

100.6

345

3 465

63.6

6.44

6 45.5

40.7

9.30

9 31.5

76.4

12.14

>2 15 5

100.5

4.00

4 01.5

59.7

6.47

648.S

40.8

10.00

10 01.5

82.7

12.19

12 20.5

100.6

4^«5

4 16.5

55.6

0.51

6 52.5

40.9

10.30

10 31.5

89.8

12.21

12 22.5

100.6

430

4 3'. 5

530

6.53

6 54 ■

41.0

10.45

10 46.5

92.1

12.24

«2 25. 5

100.5

445

4 46. 5

50.0

730

7 31 .J

43.0

11.00

II 01.5

94.7

12.27

12 28.5

100.4

5.00

5 01.5

47.2

8.00

8 01.5

47.4

11.15

11 16.5

97.0

12.30

«2 315

100.3

5^'5

5 "6.5

8.30

831.5

52.0

11.30

" 31.5

98.7

12.35

12 36.5

99.9

525

5 26.5

44.0

9.00

9 01.5

58.8

"35

II 36.5

99.0

12.45

12 46.5

99.2

5.35

5 36. 5

43.5

9.30

9 31.5

64.9

11 .40

" 4t.5

99.6

1. 00

I 01.5

97.8

5.4s

5 46.5

42.1

10.00

10 01.5

73-5

"45

II 46.5

99.8

'••5

I 16.5

95-6

5-55

5 56.5

41.5

10.30

«o 31.5

80.1

11.50

" 51.5

99.9

1,30

« 3« 5

93.3

6.00

6 01.5

40.9

11.00

II 01.5

88.5

"•55

II 56.5

100. 1

I 45

I 465

90.9

6.06

6 07.5

40.8

11.15

I. 16.5

91.8

1". M.

2. 00

2 01.5

88.2

6.12

6 13.5

40.7

11.30

" 31 5

95.0

12.00

12 01.5

100.2

2.15

2 16. S

85.6

6.19

6 20.5

40.4

"45

II 46.5

98.6

P.M.

2.33

2 345

81.6

6.26

6 27.5

40.6

11.50

" 5«.5

98.8

12.02

>2 03.5

100.3

24s

2 46.5

78.8

6.30

6 3«.5

40.6

11.55

II 56.5

99S

12.04

12 05.5

100.6

3.00

3 01.5

75. 3

6.35

636.5

40.6

m'n't.

12.07

12 08.5

100.6

3-iS

3 '6.5

7'. 5

6.38

6 39. 5

40.6

12.00

H. Mis. 393 17

258

TlIK LADY FRANKLIN IJAY KXI'KUITION.

Tidal obsen'aHons^ cxtume point of Cape Sianni-r, North Greenltinil coait — Continued.

[Dale, April lo, 18S3.]

\Vasliin);tc>n mean
time.

( iau);e.

htthes.
iao.2
100.9

lOI . I

101 .5
101. 7
102.0

Washington mean
time.

Gauge-

Inches.
102. 1
102.3
102.5
102.7
102.9
103.2

WasliiiiUldii iiican
time.

Gauge,

IllilllS.

'03 -3
103.4

'"3-5
'03-S

Wa.sliin|>t()n mean
time.

Gauge.

huhes.
'03 -S
'03 -4
103..-;
103. 1
102.7

< H)sened.

Re<luce<l.

C)l)served.

A.M.
12.22
12.25
12.28
X 12.31

'2-33
'2-37

Reduced.

A. M.

1 2'' 23. 5'"
12 26.5
12 29.5
12 32.5

'2 34-5
12 38.5

Observed.

A. M.

12.40

'2.43
12.44
12.49
12-53

Reduced.

A. M.
I2''41.5"'
12 44.5

'2 45-5
12 50.5

'2 54-5

Olwerved.

Reduced.

A. M.

i2'>57.5"'
I 00.5
I 02.5

' 05-5
I 14.5

A. M.

A. M.
1 2'' 01 .5"'
12 06.5
J2 II. 5
12 14.5
12 16.5
12 20.5

A.M.
12.56
'2.59

I.OI

1.04

'•'3

12.05
12. 10
12.13
12.15
12.19

Kkmakks. — The gauge consisted of the three joints of a signal st.ifT graduated in inches. This was ex|x)Std on shore ice,
suspended on a stnmg, hardwood slat (from dog-.sleilge), to which it was securely la.shed. It was exposed at extreme point of
Capo Sumner. The ])ositi<in of the gauge was verilied by the observer cunslantly by means of two lixed points bearing on the
gauge. No change in its position coultl be detected during the series of observations. Tide-hole entirely free from ice or any-
thing that could interfere with its position.

Meteorological observations during the journey to North Greenland coast.

Thermometer No. i, ivory \V

nd.

scale.

1 )ate.
1883.

Time.

liarometer
No. 11.

Weather.

Locality,

Direc-
tion.

Velocity.

Observed, j Minimum.

Inches.

mm.

h'ahr.

C. Fahr.

Mar. 27

4. 00 ]). m.

29.90

759-45

— II

—23.9!

1 sw.

Light..

F-iir

Cape lieechey.

7. 00 a. m.

29.92

759-95

— 9

-22.8

—12

- 24. 4 Calm.

I.t. snow .

Do.

5.00 p. m.

29.96

760.97

- 7

-21.7

Calm.

■

Lt. snow .

kobeson Channel, near
Cape Sumner.

7. 30 a. m.

29.91

759. 70

- 7

-21.7

-23-3

»Hrisk._

Cloudy

Do.

7. 00 p. m.
7.00 a. m.

29.91
29.99

759.70
76'- 73

— 21 .7

SW.

Kresh

Threat'ing
I.t. snow .

Newman Bay.
Do.

—22.2

—12

—24.4

sw.

light..

7. 00 ]). m.
7.00 a. m.

29.22
29.09

742. 17

—24.4

Calm.

Fair

On divide, in Gap Valley .
Do.

7.38. «7

—33-3

-36

-.37.8

Calm.

Clear

5 .00 ]).m.

29.71

754-62

— 22

-30.0

sw.

Light..

Fair

North end of (jap \'alley.

Apr. I

7 . 00 a . m .

29.50

749-,29

--30

—34-4

—34

-36-7

Light..

Clear ...

Do.

7.00 p.m.

29.61

752.08

-40

— 40.0

Calm.

tKair

Near IJlack Horn Cliffs.

7 . 00 a . m .

29.61

752.08

— U

-.?8.3

sw.

Light..

Fair

Do.

1. 00 p.m.

29.68

7.53-86

-28

-33-3

..^ _

NK.

Light..

Fair

Do.

2.00 p.m.

29. 65

753- 'o

— 1?

-36.1

-45

—42.8

NK.

Light..

Fair

Do.

3.00 p.m.

29.71

754-62

--S6

-S7-8

NK.

Light.

Fair

Do.

4 . 00 p . m .

29.72

754-87

—42

—41.1

Calm.

Fair

Do.

5 . 00 p . m .

29.72

754-87

—42

-41-'

Calm.

F'air

Do.

6.00 p.m.
7. 00 p. m.

29.71
29.60

754.62
75' -83

—40

-,8

— 40.0

Calm.

Fair... .

Do.

--38-9

NK.

Light..

Fair

Do.

9. 00 p. m.

29.61

752.08

—42

41. 1

Calm,

Fair

Do.

S. 00 a. m.

29. 68

753-86

—30.0

-S2

-46.7

NK.

Light.

Clou<ly

Do.

1). 00 a.m.

29. 69

754"

— 22

-30.0

NK.

Light..

Cloudy

Do.

1 0. 00 a . m .

29- 58 ,75' -32
29. 62 1 752.33

-19
20

-28. 3
-28.9

NK.

Light..
Light.

Cloudy

Do.

11 . 00 a . m .

NK.

Do.

1 2. 00 m.

29.01 T^ii.oS

—30.0

NK.

Light.

Cloudy...

Do.

1 . 00 j; . m .

29. 63

752.59

-31. 1

NK.

I .ight . .

Cloudy...

Do.

2. 00 ]>.m.

29.61

752.08

-34-4

NE.

Light..

Fair

Do.

3. 00 p . m .

29.60

7S'-83

.(4

-36.7

NK.

Light..

Fair

Do.

5.00 |i.in.

29.41

747.00

-37-2

NK.

Light..

F'iiir

Do.

7. 00 p.m.

29.57

751.06

- 38.9

Calm.

Cloudy

Do.

10. 00 a.m.

29.51

749-54

- 10

—23-3

-4{

-41.7

SW.

Light..

Cloudy

Do.

12. 00 in.

30.05

763 . 26

LI]

SE.

Gale..

AlKjut 4 miles from Re-

pulse Harbor.

* High winds during the night, f W'ater clouds over imrlliern sky. \ At I )). m. of the 4th overtaken by a severe SE. gale
while passing over the snow-slopes; went into camp, where we remained for over forty hours. Gale abated early morning of
the 6th.

au^e

'iitfi
10.5 5

IOJ.2

103.1

102.7

tore ice,
jioint iif
jT on the
or any-

;1, near

) Valley.
\' alley.
Cliffs.

Irom Rc-
br.

L SE. t;ale
luurning of

THE LADY FKANKMN BAY EXPEDITION.

Areteorological ohsfrt'titions liiiring the journey to North Greenland <-twi/— Continued.

259

Karonieter
No. II.

Thermometer No. I, ivory
scale.

Observed.

Minimum.

Wind.

mm.
762 . 24

762. 49
765. 29
756. 6s
754. II
754-62

755-89
756-65

756. 9«
756.91
757.16
756.65
759 70
759-95
761.73
757-4«
753-86

753- «o
752- 59
752-33
752-33
752.08

751-83
75'-57
752.08

752.33
752.841

752.33
754-62

Fahr.

760.72

- 7
—24

- 10

- 6
—12

-«3
-14

->s

-16
-14
-14
-14

— 12

-29

— 12

-'3

— 9

— 10

-•3
-16
-18
-16
—14
—18
—24
-32
-3'
-30
-24
-29
-24

-21.7

3«-«

-23 -3

-21.1

-24.4
-25.0
-25.6
-26. 1
-26.7
-25.6
-25.6
-25.6
-24.4

-33-9
-24.4
-25.0
-22.8

-23-3
-25.0
-26.7
-27.8
-26.7
-25.6
-27.8
-3«-«
-35-6
-35-0
-34-4
-3>-'
-33-9
-3'-'

Fahr.

—32

-35-6

-30

-34
-45
-36

-34-4

-36-7
— 4V.8''

'-3y.8

Uirec-
tloo.

SK.

SK.
8E.
SVV.
NE.

sw.
sw.

sw.
sw.
sw.
sw.
sw.
sw.
sw.
sw.
sw.

SE.

SW.

SE.

NE.

Calm.

SW.

Calm.

NE.

NW.

Velocity

Ciale.

(iale..
Kresh . ,
Light.
Light.
Light.
Light.
Kresh .
Fresh .
Brisk .
Hrisk .
Urisk .
Brisk .
Brisk .
Brisk .
(Jentle
Light.
Light.
Light.
Light.
Light.
Light .
Fresh .
Light.
Light .

Fresh .

i.ight";

Light.

Weather.

Cloudy

Fair

Cloudy.
Snow . .
Snow ..
Cloudy.
Snow . .
Snow ..
Cloudy.
Cloudy.
Cloudy.
Cloudy.
Cloudy.

Fair

Cloudy.
Fair ...
Cloudy.
Cloudy.

F'air

Fair

Cloudy.

Fair

Fair ...
Fair _ .
Clear . .
Clear . .
Clear ..

F'air

Fair ...

Locality.

About 4 miles from Re-
pulse Harbor.

Do.

Do.
Cape Sumner.

Do.

Do.
Robeson Channel .

Do.
Depot B.
*Do.

•Strong SW. wind blowing while crossing Robeson Channel.

W. S. Jewell,

Observer.

Appendix No. 72. — Sergeant Rice''s report on trip to Thank God Harbor.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, April 20, 1883.

Sir: I have the honor to report that in accordance with your instruction.s of April 5, I examined on
the following day, with dog-sledge, the ice on this side of Hall's Basin, with the view of selecting the best
route towards Thank God Harbor, and decided on Distant Cape as the best starting point.

On April 10, at 8.25 a. m., I left station for Thank God Harbor with a party of 10 men, and accom-
panied by Dr. Pavy. We were supported by a dog-team driven by Private Schneider. We reached Distant
Cape at 10.20 a. m., and picked up tent and turned off into Robeson Channel at i i.io a. m. A field of
new ice carried us some distance; a fringe of hummocks, with soft snow, then intervened; after which a
paleocrystic floe furnished good traveling to about three miles from shore. The travehng then became
very rough and it was found expedient to put six men on the small sledge and reapportion the loads
between the sledges. The remainder of the party were engaged in road-making. More time was occupied
in improving the road than was necessary to insure the passage of the dog and man sledges outward
bound, as we expected to profit by it when returning with the heavy boat. Many detours were made to
connect the small floes and avoid the rubble-ice and snow-drifts, and also in picking a route through the

) !

' ^1

ill

260

THK LADY FKANKLIN BAY KXPEDITION.

hummocks. The snow between the floes and among the rubble-ice was soft and deep. We encamped
on a paleocrystic floe at 5.15 p. ni. I estimated that wc were then 6 miles from Distant Cape, 12 from home
station, and had traveled at least 14 miles to make good the distance. Weather fine ; temperature at 6 p. m.,
-18° [-27.8° C.J; at 6.30 p.m., -25° [-31.70 C.]; and at 7.30 p. m., -32° [—35.6° C.J.

On Wednesday, \[)t\\ i i, we broke camp at 5.30 a. m. The cooks had been calle<l at 3 a. m., at . "ich
time the temperature was —28° [ — 33.3° CJ. I cached a portion of our provisions, to be used returning,
and marked the pLice with a small flag. After picking a way through some rough ice and soft snow a short
distance from camp, a large undulating floe opened u|), over which we maile good time, as the traveling vvas
excellent. The floe w.as the most part bare, and where the snow lay it was jiacked sufficiently hard to
support the sledges. The snow appeared to decrease in quantity as we left the shore of Grinnell Land.
Other floes of like character presented themselves from time to time, and our progress was altogether satis-
factory, although the route was not always direct, as detours were still necessary to secure the best floes and
avoid the hummocks between them. About 1 2 ni. a heavy haze or fog settled down upon the Greenland shore
and completely hid the coast. By noting a line of hummocks before the land was entirely shut from
view, we were enabled to continue traveling in a direction nearly correct. A wind was blowing all day,
lightly at first, from the SW., veering afterwards to NE., and increasinf; at i p. m. to about 18 miles per
hour 1 8'" ])er second |, with drift. The faces of most of the party now suffered frost-bites, and several were
(juite tired, and affected by the weather. We could no longer see our course nor pick out a route; and
at 2 p. m. were forced into camp under the lee of a line of hummocks. I considered 12 miles to have
been made good this date, although the shore could not be seen to assist us in judging. We traveled at
least 17 or 18 miles. Temperature at 4 p. m. —5° f— 20.6'' C.J.

After camping the storm increased, and at times the tents were so violently shaken by the wind that I
feared for their security. They were enveloped in a blinding drift. It was 11.45 p. m. before the weather
had sufficiently moderated to admit of a move being made. The cooks were then called ; wind still blow-
ing 6 or 8 miles an hour [about 3 or 4'° per second].

At I a. m. April 12, the temperature was —10° [—23.3° C.J. I cached the small sledge and all our
p'-ovisions, except one day's rations, and at 2 a. m. we moved on towards Thank God Harbor, still ap-
parently 6 or 7 miles distant. Light wind still blowing. The floes continued to favor us, but appeared
heavier, and rather more broken up. The snow banks were also more plentiful. As before, we were com-
l)e!led to make some concessions to distance in selecting the best traveling, and kept up our road making.
The best floes led us towards Cape Lupton where the ice appeared smoother. At 7 a. m., when within
i^^ or 2 miles of the observatory, we halted and unloaded from the ilog-sledge everything but the lashing
and tools required for the fitting up the boat and sledge. Four men were left behind to pitch the tents, with
directions to follow us when that was done. With the remainder of the party I proceeded to the observa-
tory, still the most prominent object in Thank God Harbor, where we arrived at 8 a m. We found the
12-man sledge partly covered with snow, but all its parts complete, although one runner was detached,
and the lashing of the other loose. While it was being relashed, the snow was shoveled off" the contents of
the observatory, which is roofless and was drifted full, but all of the articles I was instructed by you to bring
from there could not be found. The stearine and stearine lamp were missing. We, however, brought
away the pemniican and sundry small articles. The boat was found to be in good condition, and her
fittings and gear all complete.

After preparations for leaving the place had been maile, we all repaired to the grave of Captain Hall,
over which the stars and stripes were draped, while about it were silently groujied the whole party. The
deportment of everyone was subdued, decorous, and respectful, and in every way befitting the occasion.
All seemed impressed by the contemplation of this isolated resting [jlace, so far removed from the haunts of
man, amidst a desolate surrounding of snow and ice.

The graves of the two British seamen, who peri.shed in the discharge of their duty with the F.nglish
expedition of i875-'76, were then visited and the ceremonies repeated in the same respectful and sympa-
thetic manner. We found the head-stones of the latter graves thrown down by the wind and broken, the
fragments lying on the mounds. As you did not anticipate this, we were, of course, unprovided with the
means of replacing them.

We left Thank God Harbor at 1 2.30 j). m. Found the boat more easily handled than we expected,
even over the ice-foot. We reached our tents, pitched on floe, at 2 p. m. Weather very pleasant; tempera-
ture, at 4 p. m., —5° [ — 20.6° C.J.

H^i^i: ::i^^di^

THE LADY KKANKMN BAY KXPEDITION.

261

Friday, April i,^. was dull and cloudy with light breeze from the northwest, and snow and frost flying
in small particles. Wc pulled out of cani|) at 3 a. m., the cooks having been calleil at 12.45 •'>• '"• 'Y^rn-
perature at i a. m., — 13.5° ( - iS'3° C.]. At 1 1.05 a. ni. we reached the cache last deposited and went into
camp. Several of the party suflereil frost-bites. . We found that the boat rode well, but pulled heavily,
especially over the snow-drifts and hunimocks, as her bows had to be elevated to a great height before the
center of gravity was attained and she coulil be made to descend again. At times it retjuired at least three
of us out of the diag-ropes to ease her down or guide her between Inimmocks.

Temperature at 12 m., — 95'' [ — 23-1° C.]; weather growing worse, cloudy and snowy, with raw wind.

At 2 |). m. wind had increased to at least 28 or 30 miles per hour [about 12"' per second] from the
north, accompanied with heavy drift. The weather was carefully wat( hed with the object of breaking (amp,
but not until 6.20 o'clock of the next morning was it sulFu icntly unproved to warrant calling the <()oks,
arlthough life in the sleeping-bags for so long a- lime — already nineteen hours — was exceedingly tiresome,
and traveling preferable.

Saturday, Ajiril 14, at 9 a. m. we were again on the march. Temperature at 8 a. m., —14° [ — 25.6 C.| ;
wind still blowing 8 or 10 miles an hour [about 3 or 4'" per second], with snow-drifts. After getting through
the first rough ice, we, at 10 a. m., made sail on the boat and found it a great help. With excci)tion of
about half an hour, when the sail was taken in to cross a line of hummocks, we utilized it all day. Our
course gave us only a side wind ; a fairer breeze would have enabled us to dispense with the drag-ropes. It
is a fair estimate to state that the sail did the work of at least five men all day. We carried in the boat all
her gear, oars, tkc, also cooking-utensi s, tent-poles, one tent, one sleeping-bag, and a few small articles
and the small sledge. Everything else was carried by the dog-sledge, which was heavily loaded. Private
Biederl)ick had his foot frozen on the march, but it was strijjped and circulation soon restored.

At 12.30 p. m. we were met by Sergeant Hrainard, with dog-team and small party. We learned that,
the North Greenland i)arty having returned, you had dispatched him to meet us and assist in moving some
of our constant weights and eiiuijiment. We placed on his sledge everything carried in the boat, and added
part of the load of our dog-sledge. With the advantage of this assistance, in addition to the .sail, I decided
to make the first camp of our outward journey, so as to leave Lut one day's travel before us. We camped
near first cache at 5 p. m. The dog-sledges had preceded us, and tents were already pitched. Party con-
siderably exhausted, as we had traveled fast.

Temperature at 6 p. m. —16.5° [ — 26.9° C.J; at 7 p. m., —18" [ — 27.8" C.j.

Sunday, April 15, at 7.45 a. m. we had breakfasted, packed up, and were again ready to start. The
two dog-teams moved on ahead, hauling all our constant weights, provisions, and equipment, leaving us
only the empty boat. They soon distanced us. The traveling was very rough, and it took us five hours to
reach Distant Cape. At this place we were met by Sergeant Brainard, with fourteen dogs and native driver.
By preconcerted arrangements he had returned, with your permission, after having conveyed his load to the
station. The road in from Distant Cape being smooth, the dogs were attached to the boat-sledge, and we
were soon at Dutch Lsland, where the boat was left. Party reached Fort Conger at 3 p. m.

I estimate that the distance traveled each way by us between Distant Cape and Thank God Harbor
was 36 miles, to which may be added, both going and returning, the 6 miles between Distant Cape and
home station.

I desire to acknowledge the assistance of Dr. Pavy, who performed arduous work each day with the
dog-sledge, and was untiring in his solicitude for the comfort of the men when in camp. I wi.sh also to
state that the conduct of each member of the party was exemplary, and the exertions of all very praise-
worthy.

Very respectfully,

Geo. W. Rice,
Strgeafit, S/\'mi/ Coifs, U. 6", A.

Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Fifth Cava/iy, Acting Signal Officer and Assistant,

Commanding Lady Fianklin Bay Expedition.

Accompanying this please find transcript of sledge journal kept during trip. — G. W. R.

262

Tin: L\U\ KHANKMN HAY KXI'KIHTION.

Slfiwe Journal or trip wi in pamtv h)k iioat lo TfiANK God Hariior, /Vprii. ioto 15, inclusive, 1883.

T)iesiitiy, April 10, i.S8j. — Left Fort Conger at S.jj a. ni. Missed jxiles of six-n)an tent wlien near
half-way between Dutch Islami and Distant Cape. Sent S<hnei(ler back for them with <log-teain, transfer-
ring ilogs from large to small sledge, which we unloaded. I'ut full force of men on large loaded sledge and
proceeded. Reache<l Distant C'ape at 10.20 a.m. Picked up cached tent at 11. 10 a.m. New ice for
some distance into the straits, then a fringe of hummocks with soft snow between. A paleocrystic floe then
took us some distance from shore (3 miles). Dog-sledge overtook us at 12.15 p. m. Traveling now rough.
Apportioned the loads between man and dog sledges. Six men pulling the small sledge, the rest of party
road-making with axe and shovels. Compelled to take serjjcntine route to pick the best w.-iy. Snow be-
tween floes and rubble-ice very ileep and troublesome.

Went into camp at 5.15 p. m. on paleocrystic Hoe. We are about 6 miles from I)istant Cape, 12 from
home, and have traveled at le-tst 14 miles to make it good. 'I'raveliiig looks more promising for to-morrow.
Weather fine. Temperature at 6 p. m., — 18° [ — 27.8° C.|; at 6.30 p. m., — 25° [— 3i.7''C.] ; at 7.10 p. m.,
— 320 [ — 35.6° C], estimated [being below scale |, but marked on thermometer case for verification.

Wednesday, April 11, 1883 — Ca'led cooks at 3 a. m Temperature at tinie, —28° [ — 33.3° C.]; at 5
a. m., — 25° [ — 31.7° C.J. Cached axe, some provisions and dog-food, and marked place with tiag. Broke
camp at 5.30 a. m. Klison and I went ahead to pick out a road. I put I iim to assist doctor and Schneider
with dog-sledge, as it worked heavily yesterday. Picked a way through rough ice and snow-drifts surround-
ing camp, when we struck good floes and made excellent time. Had to make detours to keep the floes and
avoid the fringes of hummocks. About 1 2 m 'lie (Ireenland shore was completely hiilden by fog. Uy noting
hummocks ahead we were able to keep on 01 r way, guided partly by the wind. W ind blowing all day, first
SW., afterwards veering to NK. At i p. m. wind increased to 18 mfies per hour [S"' per second], with drift.
Faces of almost all the party frost-bitten. Ni/ able to see our way, and several of the party tired, and all
aflTected by the wind ; could not do otherwise thai camp. Have pitched tents under the leo ol a line of hum-
mocks, that break the wind somewhat.

I think we have made good 1 2 miles to-day, although we cannot see either shore. Have traveled at
least 18 miles. Temperature at 4 p. m., —12° [ — 24.4° C.].

Looked out at 10 p. m. and again at 11 p. ni. with intention of calling cooks, but weather too bad to
admit of start. Storming very hard, shaking the tents violently and threatening to dislodge them. The
condensed moisture was showered continually on the sleeping-bags. At 1 1.45 p. in. called cooks. Weather
moderated, but wind still blowing 5 miles an hour [2.2"' per second].

Thursday, April 12, 1883. — Temperature at i a. m., —10° [—23.3° C], Cache all our provisions and
dog-food but one day's rations. Also leave bchini ' small man-sledge, and carry everything on the dog-
sledge. Break camp at 2 a. m.; wind still blowin ; 2 or 3 miles [about i'" per second] an hour. Hall's Rest
appears to be 7 or 8 miles distant. I went ahead with small party to select and build the road. Several
were left behind to help the heavily-laden dog-sledge along. Floes carried us into Thank God Harbor,
although detours were nece.ssary to avoid hummocks and snow-banks. Our route wound us up around Cape
Lupton, which we passed close to. Several of the men aijpcir very stiff this morning; I suppose it will wear
off" after traveling some distance. At 7 a. m. unloaded sledge on small floe about \}4 or 2 miles from the
observatory. Left Gardiner behind with three others to pitch the tents. Reached the observatory at 8 a. m.;
and Gardiner and his companions soon joined us. The observatory is roofless and only three sides of the
wall standing. Found the twelve-man sledge partly covered with snow. One runner detached, but the parts
all complete. Frederick, and Flison at once commenced relashing the whole sledge and putting it together.
In the mean time others of the p.irty were at work shoveling the snow off" the contents of the observatory,
which was drifted full. Cannot find all the articles I am instructed to bring to Fort Conger. Had the
embankment cleared away from boat and turned her over. Found gear all complete and boat in good con-
dition. The whole party then repaired to the grave of Captain Hall, over which we displayed the national
flag. Afterwards visited the graves of Hand and Paul and repeated tokens of respect. Relics were picked
up near all three graves and preserved by members of the party.

Deposited expedition record in cairn near Hall's Rest. Lashed boat on sledge and turned our backs
on the observatory; reached Thank God Harbor at 12.30 p. m. We brought away the three tins ot
pemraican, some small articles, and three empty cans; also some packages of farina and a few pounds of

I '4

TUB liADY FKANKLIS HAY KXTKIHTION.

2r.3

graham hrcad for our own use. Rcarhed tents on floo at 3 p. m. Tlu> Iioat riili-s well, l)tit hauls heavily.
Men all in good spirits and enc oiirageil, as the boat is handled more easily than they expected. Temperature
4 P- ni., —5' [-20.6' C".].

/h'</(/»'. ///*/■// 13, 1883.— Called eooks at 12.45 '"*•'"• Temperature at i a. m , — 13.S'' [ — 25.3° C.|.
I'ulled out of camp at 3 a. m. Weather < loudy and dull, with light iiree/e from the northwest and light snow
in the air. Made our eai he — about 7 miles from 'I'hank (Jod Harbor — at 11.05 a. m. H.id to follow the
windings of the ro.id made going over, wliich took us over a good deal of ground; but road reciuired no
improvement. Sledge and b(jat haul heavily over snow banks and hununocks, as they have to bo elevated
to a great height on one side before they can descend on the other. I have placetl I, inn and Henry —
two of our lari.est men — in the hindmost belts and at all difficult jilaces they drop out and grasp the bows
of the bo.-it to ease her down. Whenever the traveling is rough I stay behind with the boat to guide her.
We carry in the boat all her gear and oars; .also coo.Jng gear, tent-poles, i tent, i sleeping bag, and other
small articles. All else is carried on the dog-sledge which is heavily loaded, and doctor and Schneider have
to work hard; the dogs are working admirably, following our tracks. Temperature at 12 ni., —9.5"
[— 13.1° C.]; weather disagree.able, cloudy, and snowy, with raw wind. At 2 p. m. winil increased so as to
endanger the tents. At 10 p. m. I got up and went outside. Weather would not admit of a start. Wind
was blowing 28 or 30 miles an hour [about 13'" per second] from the north, with blinding drift.

Satiin/ay, April 14, 1883. — VV'eather has been carefully watched, with intention of moving so soon as
it moderated. Gardiner was out at 2 a. m. and reported the weather still very bad. At 6.20 a. m. it had
improved ; called cooks. Temperature at 7 a. m., — 13-5° [ — 25.3° C!.J. We pulled out of camp at 9 a. m.
'i'eniperature at 8 a. m., — 14° [ — 25.6° C.]. Wind is now (9 a. m.) blowing 8 or 10 miles an hour [about 4'"
per second] with some drift. After getting through first rough ice we — at o a. m. — made sail on the boat,
and found it a great heli). Took in sail at 10.30 a. m. to pass through hummocks. Reached large floe and
made sail again at 1 1 a. m. Carrieil away step of mast, but lashed it to do temporary duty. Elison will
re; air it to-night. Carried sail all day, I, inn and I steering. At one time whole party were out of drag-ropes,
and wind was sufficient to move the sledge along. We were sailing too near the wind — it was NNK. — to
receive its full benefit. At 12.30 p. m. we were met by Sergeant Brainard with dog-team and Kskimo Fred-
erik. Lieutenant Kislingbury accompanies him. The North Greenland party has been turned back by open
water and Lieutenant CJreely sends Brainard to assist in moving part of our load. Receive a letter from com-
mander to that effect. Brainard takes everything out of boat, and part of Schneider's load. I conclude
with this help to reach first cache to-night, so as to arrive home to-morrow. Camped a short distance from
cache at 5 p. m. The dog-sledges traveled l.aster than we, and tents were pitched by the time we came up.
Most of the party much exhausted, as we traveled very fast. Gardiner had a sick stomach in the morn-
ing and vomited his breakfast, but stuck manfully to the drag-ropes. Biederbick had his great toe frozen
on the way, but circdation was speedily restored by the application of warm hands.

Temperature at 6 p.m., —16.5° [ — 26.9°C.]; at 7 p.m., —18° [ — 27.8°C.]. There arc many calls
made on Brainard's tent, after supper, to learn the particulars of the northern trip.

Sunday, April \t^. — Cooks were called at a little before 6 o'clock. The men were very wakefullast
night and wished to have started earlier. All ready to start at 7.45 a. m. The dog-sledges go ahe.ad and
carry all our constant weights, provisions, and etpiipment, leaving us tlie empty boat. Lieutenant Kisling-
bury volunteered to stay with and assist us. Traveling from here to Distant Cajjc is very rough. Sent
word to the commanding officer, suggesting that Brainard should return to meet us at Distant Cape, with
large number of dogs, to haul this boat in to Dutch Island. Stopped on the way a short time to melt some
ice to quench our thirst. Reached Distant Cape in five hours, at 12.45. ^^^ here met by Brainard, at this
place and time, with Eskimo Frederik and 14 dogs. Dogs hauled tne boat to Dutch Island, over the good
road, with eas'.. Reached Fort Conger at 3 p. m. I am much pleased with the conduct of every one on
the trip. All 'WX the very best they could.

Respectfully submitted with report.

Geo. W. Rice,
Sergeant, Sigiuil Corps, U. S. A.

;

■i

tiiiiii

:?!

264 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Appendix No. 73. — Z)/-. /Irr^'j medical report on trip to Thank God Harbor.

Fort Concer, Grinnki.l Land, April 2oih, 1883.
Sir; I have the honor to report to you on the health of the men during the trip to Thank God Harbor.
The sanitary state has been good, and the party returned without accidents.

The powers of endurance to cold and fatigue have sensibly decreased, even in the best men of our party.
The detachment has moved with remarkable zeal, energy, and discipline, and Sergt. Rice has directed
his work with the greatest of skill.

I will mention Pvt. Schneider, driver of my sledge, whose exertions and labor are very creditable.
I am, very respectfully, your obt. servant,

Octave Paw,
A. A. Surgeon, U. S. A.
To the C0M.MANDING Officer.

Appendix No. 74. — Orders for Sergeant Jewell f^r tidal observations at Cape Beechey.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, May 3, 1883.

Sergeant: — You are hereby directed to proceed to Cape Beechey, Robeson Channel, in order to
make tidal observations at that point.

The observations will cover nine successive tides, and you will leave this station at such time on May
6 as will enable you to observe the first low tide of May 7, which is expected about 10.50 a. m. (Wash-
ington mean time).

The following tidal re" .'.:^<rs will be made:

1. On the even hour of Washington mean time.

2. Each even minute (W. M. T.) for twenty minutes at one toiir, commencing each set exactly six
hours after the preceding high or low water. In case the tide has not changed appreciably at the end of
twenty minutes the readings will be continued until such ])hase has been noted.

In case Medusa or Annelida are seen they will be carefully observed, if not captured, to enable you to
identify them subsequently.

Great care will be taken to injure the security of the gauge to that part of the ice-foot which is immov-
ably attached to the shore. A reference point should be established so as to enable the gauge to be replaced
in case of accident.

You will be accompanied by Sergeant Connell, and Private Schneider with his dog team. Sergeant
Connell, when not needed, will occupy his time in hunting. Private Schneider will assist you in making
the readings.

A. W. Greely,
J'irst Lieutenant, Fifth dwahy, A. S. 0. and Assistant, Commanding.

Sergeant W. S. Jewell,

Signal Sen-iie, U. S. Army.

Appendix No. 75. — Report of Sergeant Jewell on tidal observations at Cape Beechey.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, May 12, 1883.

Kir: — I have the honor to report that, in compliance with your orders of May 3, I left this station at
6.45 p. m., May 6, f( r Caj)e Heechey, for the purpose of taking tidal observations at that point.

I was accompanied by Ssrgeant Connell and Private Schneider. We arrived at our destin.ation at 2.20
a, m.. May 7, and selecting what appeared to be a suitable tidal crack, began the tidal hole, but, after going
down about four feet f 1.2'"], I abandoned it and began another further from shore. After sinking this to a
depth of about five feet [1.5'"] the water began to percolate through the ice, and before we could get low
enough had become so deep that it was impossible to work. I then selected another site, and after follow-
ing the crack down about seven feet [2"'], found water that extended from one side of the tidal hole, which

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

265

we sank below tht water-level at low tide, and then allowed it to flow in. The permanent gauge was com-
pleted aboui ^.14 p. n. The high tide at 10.54 a. m. having been taken on a temporary gauge erected for
that purpose.

The gauge was secured to a shelf projecting from a grounded fl(n' berg, beinj; lashed to a board that
was solidly spiked into the ice. The position was frecjuently verified by two fixed points bearing on the
gauge, and no change could be detected. I continued the observations until after the p. m. low tide of tin
9th, and then started to return, leaving there at 7 p. m. Stoppii,, it depot ]{ and pii king up what remained
of the cache, excepting the tent, sleeping-bag, and one blanket, arrived at Fort Congei at 2.30 a. m.,
May 10.

I found upon making a comparison of my watch, that it had lost 15 minutes, caused, doubtless, by the
minute hand getting loose and moving back. 1 think this happened during the forenoon of the 8th, as after
that time I noticed the minute and second hands did not agree.

Private Schneider a. sisted me in making the observations, and Sergeant Council, in accordance with
your instructions, spent his time in hunting, only succeeding in getting one hare.

Enclosed* you will find a report of tidal and meteorological observations. The latter having been
taken hourly.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

W. S. Jkwell,
Serf;eant, Signa/ Corps, U, S. A.
Lieut. A. W. CiREELV,

Ftrsl LieuUnant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. ami Assistant,

Commanding Expedition.

Appendix No. 76. — O/ders for Sergeant Gardiner f r tidal observations at Cape Baird.

Fort Con-(;er, Grtnnei.l Land, May 3, 1883.

Sergeant : You are hereby directed to proceed to Cape Baird, Lady Franklin Bay, in order to make
tidal observations at that point.

Tue observations will cover nine successive tides, and you will leave this station at such time on May 6
as V ill enable you to observe the first low tide of May 7, which is expected about 10.50 a. m. (Washington
mean time).

The following tidal readings will be made :

1. On the even hour of Washington mean time.

2. Each even minute (W. M. T.) for 20 minutes at one tour, commencing each set exactly six hours
after the preceding high or low water.

In case the tide nas not changed appreciably at the end of the twenty minutes, the readings will be
continued until such phase has been noted.

In case Medusa or Annalidte are seen, they will be carefully observed, if not captured, to enable you to
identify them subsequently.

Great car .vill be taken to insure the security of the gauge to that part ot the ice-foot whicii is immov-
ably attached to the shore. A reference point should be established, so as to enable the gauge to be
replaced in case of accident. You will be accompanied by Gergei\nt Elison and Eskimo Jens Edward, with
his dog-team. The team will be sent back on Monday and will return for you on Tuesday.

A. W. Greei.v,
First Lieutenant, F'ijt/i C.walry, A, S. O. and Assistant, Ccmmanding.
Sergeant H. S. Gardiner,

Signal Sriviie, U, S, Artny.

•The meteorological observations are to be found printed uvAkt /leU oljservations in Appendix No. 138; the tidal obser-
vations in Appendix No. 140.

- {
' M

! i •

M
■ i'

260

THE LADY FRANKLIN^ BAY EXPEDlTIOIf.

Appendix No. 77. — Orders for Sergeant Israel for astronomical observations at Cape Baird.

Fort Conger, Grinnei.l Land, May 7, 1883.
Sergeant: You will proceed by dog-sledge to-night to Cape Baird for the purpose of determining tht
latitude and longitude of that point.

On your return a brief report, in which are to be embodied your observations, will be made.

A. W. Greely,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A, S. O. and Assistant,

Commandin)^ Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.
Observer, Sergeant Edward Israel,
Signal Semice, U. S. Army,

Astronomer, Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.

Appendix No. 78. — Report of Sergeant Israel on observations ordered in Appendix No. yj.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, Tuesday, May 15, 1883.

Sir : I have the honor to make the following report on the trip to Cape Baird and observations made
there by me, in compliance with your order of the 7th.

I left the station, with Jens Edward and dog-sledge, at 11.35 P- "^-j Monday, May 7, taking with me
the English sextant, four boxes of provisions, and one of ammunition. I further added a barrel of hard
bread to my load at the cache on the flue. Arrived at the tidal station iiear Cape Baird at 4.45 a. m.. May
8, and took the foUotving observations during the day:

(For longitude: Equal altitudes of sun.)

Cover.

I.imb.

Time a.m.

2 ait. 0.

Time p.m.

Index corrections.

h. m. s.

On arc. Off arc.

1) ©

5 >7 55

35 "o

4 57 38

[li 07 46.5] Rejected.

19 OS

56 40

525

20 14

55 26

50.0

21 22

54 20

Si-o

(•26' 30'' 37' 00"

22 29

53 '7

53-

a.m.- 26' CO" 36' 10"

23 35

52 "1

54-5

-IS' 10"

25 44

34 40

49 53

48.5

'26' 20'/ 36' 30"

26 40

48 5.)

52.5

p.m. 26' 20" 36' 30"

27 50

47 55

52.5

+5' 05"

2S S4

46 49

5«5

30 10

35 00

45 37

53-5

3' IS

44 25

50.0
II 07 51. 8-1-0.36

Equation of equ
t'orrection for _
Kq. of time

il altitudes

- I 44-5

—0 00. s

1 3 40- I

1 1 09 46. 9

Watch time of n

oon .

■

Ah= — 2.". Harometer, a. m., 30.62; p. m., 30.61. Thermometer, a. m., -f 10.5° ; p. m., -|-lo.o°.
The errors of the watch on Fort Conger time, based upon similar sets of equal altitudes, are:

h. m. 8. 8.

Watch slow on Fort Conger, May 6 6 48 59.3^0.26

Watch slow on Fort Conger, May 9 . 1.. 6 49 28.0-l-0.31

Watch .slow on Fort Conger, May 8, noon 49 18. a

Watch slow on Cape Baird, May 8, noon S" '3-I

Longitude of tidal st.itlon o' 54.9" east of Fort Conger.

Extreme point of cape, 600 ya ds [549""], east of tidal station 2. 6" east of tiilal stption.

Cape Baird o' 57.5" east of Fort Conger.

THR LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

267

(For latitude : C'rcum-mcridian altitudes of sun.)

Combination to

Combination to eliminate

Cover.

Limb.

Time.

2 alt. ©.

Am.

Q f ff

eliminate faulty
diameter.

error of cover and gradual
change in index correction.

h. m. 8.

II 1

m. 8.

lo 57 09

5° 35 20

— 10 4

3«

64 25 84

f4i.o

58 40

35 30

8 33

Cover D J ^^" 5

II 01 59

s« 40 30

5 '4

^ "" 31.0

03 II

40 so

4 02

«9

■ I29.S

64° 25' 26.8"

04 36

40 50

2 37

f 150

26.2

06 08

41 00

I 05

«9

Cover R i ^^'^

n.9

07 II

50 36 50

—0 02

4>^

i_over n. < ^^^

22.3

08 12

36 so

-jo 59

1.12.5

09 36

37 30

2 23

64° 25' 24. 5"±o.9"

R
R

10 40

11 59

37 20
SI 41 r-o

4 46

04
07

21
12

v= 00.4
#=.- 17 07 02.8

*CJ

13 J8

41 00

6 05

^= 81° 32' 27.7"io.9"

14 43

40 50

7 35

•0

16 16

40 40

9 03

17 17

SO 36 30

10 04

3«

19 25

35 5°

12 12

* Recorded on lower limb by clerical error.
Index correction.

Before.

On arc. Off ar>..

26' 40" 37' !0"

2(/ 30" 37' lu"

+5' 18"

After.

On »rc. Off arc.

27' 30" 36' 00"

27' 30" 36' 10"

' +4'' 18"

Mean, +4' 48"

Barometer, 30.57; thermometer, -f 5.0°.

The distance between Fort Conger and Cape Baird is therefore 12.4'.

On the gth I assisted in taking the tidal and meteorological observations. Returned to Fort Conger
with Sergeant Gardiner and party at 4.35 p. m.

I remain, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

Edward Israel,
Sergeant, Sif^nal Corps, U. S. Army,

Astronomer to the Expedition,
Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Lady Franklin Bay Expedition,

if I

268

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EX rf:iDITION.

Appkndix No. 79. — Report of Sergeant Gardiner on tidal and ice observations at Cape Baird.

Fdrt Congkr, Grinneii. Land, May 14, 1883.

Sir: I have the honor to inclose herewith Record of Tidal and Meteorological Observations,* made at
Cape Baird, (Irinnell Land, from May 7 to 9, inclusive. Also to make the following report:

1 left Fort Conger at 7 p. m. of May 6, 1883, accompanied by Sergeant Elison and Jens Edward with ,
dog-team and sledge. At the cache on the road to Cape Baird I picked up one barrel of hard bread, which
I carried to Cape Baird and cached together with five cans of pemniican, one box of corned beef, and one
box of baked beans, which 1 carried from Fort Conger.

I arrived at Cape Baird at 12.30 a. ni. of 7th instant. We found a strong gale of wind blowing, which
prevented work until 2 a. m. Having made camp about 600 yards [549'"! inside of Cape Baird, we imme-
tliately commenced fitting up the tide-gauge. The gauge was finished at 6.45 a. m., and commenced
observations at 7 a. m. The gauge was located on the seaward side of a large floe-berg, which remained
stationary at all times. At i p. m. Jens Edward returned with the dog-team to Fort Conger.

Sergeant Israel, with Jens and dog-team with supplies for the cache at this place, arrived at 5 a. m., 8th
instant. During the day Sergeant Israel took observations for latitude and longitude.

At 2.30 p. m. I attempted to communicate with Fort Conger by heliographic signals, but was unsuc-
cessful. At 1 1 p. m., May 8, Sergeant Elison went to Cape Lieber to examine condition of straits to the
southward. He returned at 6 a. m. of 9th instant, and reported the channel closed and no water in sight.

In regard to the stratification of floe-bergs, I observed eleven bergs in which strata were clearly defined.
These bergs consisted of wide layers or strata of clear or semi-opacjue ice, separated one from the other by
smaller layers, the latter being also divided into smaller layers or strata of clear ice or snow laid alternately.
The largest strata were from 6 to 10 feet [1.8 to 3'"] thick; the smallest layers were from 2 to 4 inches
[51 to 102"""] in thickness, and five or six of these smallest layers comprised one of those which divided the
largest strata. No medusa2 or annelidie were observed.

At I p. m. of 9th instant, having comjileted the series of observations .according to your instructions
dated Fort Conger, May 3, 1883, 1 closed the station and started for Fort Conger, where I arrived at 5 p. m.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

H. S. Gardiner,
Sergeant, Signal Corps, U. S. Army.

To Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

First Lieut., Fifth Car., U. S, A., Commanding Polar Expedition,

Appendix No, 80. — Report of Sergeant feivell on paleocrystic ice.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, yune 9, 1882.

Sir : I have the honor, in compliance with your instructions for me to proceed to Distant Cape and
procure samples of diffeient strata of-, paleocrystic floe-berg grounded at that point, to report as follows:

Upon my arrival, I, with the assistance of Private Frederick, found tne berg to face to the SW. 26 feet
[7.9""], to the S. and SE. 24^^ feet 17.4."]. I- 35 fi^i^t [10.7'"], and then rounding from E. to NW. i8i/^ feet
[5.6'"], and NW. 48 feet [14.6"']. The berg was 2? 'eet [8.5"'] in height [above the sea or main floe|, sloping
gradually from near the western side of it until it reached the ice-foot at its eastern extremity. The samples
were procured from the NW. side and were taken from over three feet [about i"'] from the inside of the berg,
so as to get beyond the atmospheric influence from without.

The specimen in vial No r was procured 3^] feet [i.i'"] from the top, and 5^ feet [1.6'"] from side;
color dark blue.

No. 2,. three feet [-9'"] from side in a stratum ?.(> inches [.66"'J in breadth; color a shade lighter
than No. i.

No. 3, forty-two inches [1.06'"] from side. Strata 24 inches [.6"'|; color same as No. 2.

No. 4, three feet [.91'"] from side. Strata 12 inches (.3'"]; color same as No, 2.

* The meteorological observations are to be found printed yxnAtx field observations, Appendix 138; the tidal observations
in Appendix 140.

iTAVl6NARY

Tide-gauge, Cace Baird.

a. Water.

h. (iauge-rod.

c. Support fastened to large berg.

^**«««a.

TFIE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

269

No, 5, three feet [.gi""] from side. Strata 22 inches [.56"'!; color same as No. 2.
No. 6, three feet [.91'"] from side. Strata 18 inches [.46"'] ; color shade lighter than No. 2.
No. 7, three feet [.91"'] from side. Strata 15 inches [.38'"! , color same as No. 2.
No. 8 w.as taken below the last stratum and about 3 feet [.91"'] from the ice foot; color same as No. 2.
'I'he strata were well defined on the surface, and were quite discernible three feet [.91"'! from the outside.
The berg appears to be grounded. The base measurements were made about 3 feet [.91"'] above the
base; /. e., main floe.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

Lieut. A. W. Grkelv,

First Lieiitinant, Fifth Cavalry, U. S. A.

W. S. Jewell,
Sergeant, Signa/ Corps, U. S. A,

S. O. and Assistant,
Commanding Expedition.

Appendix No. 81. — Orders to Scrj^eant Jewell for tidal observations at Cape Beechey.

r'ORT CoNdKK, CiRINNKI.I, LaNI), Miiy 1 9, 1 883.

Sergeant: You will proceed on Monday, May 21, with Private Schneider and do^-slcdge to Caps
Beechey, for the purpose of making special tidal reailings at that point.

You will determine the time of nine high and low waters, beginning with that expected about 5.45 p. m.,
Washington mean time. May 21.

The gauge will be read on the even horr (W. M. T.), at which time the meteorological observation
will also be made.

Readings on the even minute (VV. M. T.) will be made for not less than 20 minutes around each iiigh
and low water.

Such assistance as can be rendered without interfering with your observations will be given Sergeant
Rice, the ])hotographer of the expedition, who will proceed to Beechey with you.

A. W. Greelv,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O., irnd Assistant,

Commanding Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.
Sergt. W. S. Jewell,

Signal Semite, U, S. Army.

Appendix No. 82. — Report of Sergeant Jewell on tidal observations at Cape Beechey.

Fort Conckr, Grinnell Land, May 25, 1883.

Sir: I have the honor to forward herewith a report of observations* taken at Cape Beechey, in ccjni-
pUance with your orders of the 19th instant.

I left Fort Conger with dog-team at 8.10 a. n. of the 21st, accompanied by Sergeant Rice, the expedi-
tion photographer, and Private Schneider. Owing to the recent storms the traveling was very bad, and
slow progress was made through the deep snow. A short distance beyond Distant Cape we encountered
large cracks in the ice, which necessitated our taking to the ice-foot around Water-course Bay. These cracks
are the results of tl'.e strong current tha't flows around the cape. Small pools of water were encountered
farther up the bay and also on St. Patrick Bay. But no signs of a general disruption were seen except
water-clouds visible in the north from Cape Beechey. We arrived at our destination at 4.35 a. m.

7'idal oliseirations, — As soon as the hole, used in taking our former series of observations at this place,
was cleared d the accumulated snow and slush, the gauge was got into position and observations began, as
shown by accompanying report. They were continued until the high tide of 11.50 p. m.. May 24.

Meteorological observations t were taken each hour as per instructions, except when the minute tidal
reading interfered.

*The tidal observations are to be found printed in Appendix No. 140.

I The meteorological observations are to be found printed wnAetJiM observations in Appendix No. 138.

i'l'

1*1

270

TUE LADY FUANKLIN BAY EXI'EDITION.

I also took double altitudes of the sun for time, which showed my station to be 7™ 22.3» east of Fort
Conger, and a circummeridian altitude for latitude, placing nic in latitude 81° 52' 29.1" north. Inclosed
you will find the results as computeil by Sergeant Edward Israel, astronomer of the expedition.
A sounding in the tidal hole showed a depth of 44 feet [13.4'"] high tide, with gravel bottom.
We started for home station at 12.15 a. "'■ -4''i> "arriving at Fort Conger at 6.40 a. m.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

W. S. Jewell,
Sergeant, Signal Corps, U. S. A.
Lieut. A. W. Grkklv,

First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. anil Assistant, Commanding Expedition.

Appendix No. 83. — Sergeant BrainarcTs report on journey to Cape Cracroft.

Fort Congkr, Gkinneli, Lanh, yune 5, 1883.

Sir : I have the honor to report that in compliance with verbal instructions received from you on the
evening of May 28, 1883, I left the station at 1 2. 1 5 a. m. the day following, accompanied by Sergeant H. S.
Oai diner, Signal Corps, U. S. A., and Eskimo driver Frederik Christiansen, with dog-team and provisions
for five days, for the pu.pose of taking tidal observations at Cape Cracroft, and to make a collection of the
fossils which you last August discovered to abound in the cliffs at that point.

To Cape Baird the traveling was better than we had reason to expect after the recent snow-storm of
long duration. The road was in all places visible and quite hard, the last snow which covered it to a depth
of 4 inches [102"""] so soft that our progress was scarcely impeded. Halted for a few minutes t the depot
to get a sleeping-bag and other articles to complete our equipment and then proceeded, keeping well out
in rounding Cape Baird to avoid the heavy masses of ice which had accumulated near the shore in its
vicinity. A crack in the ice 6 or 7 feet [about 2'"] wide was observed to extend from the cape northwaid
for a distance of 400 yards [366"'], The movement was evidently recent judging from the attenuated ice at
its borders. From this place the enow was so deep and soft that we frequently sank to our waist and the
sledge to its slats. We were prevented from wearing snow-shoes by the rubble-ice, which was of the worst
possible character for sledging. Occasionally, however, small floes of ancient ice were met with, which
proved of incalculable benefit, and after our hard struggle through the snow were always hailed with delight.

Water several inches in depth, which had been forced up through the fissures in the ice, was frequently
found in ilepressions of the floe; more particularly in the immediate vicinity of heavy ice, which, if possible,
was always avoided. In some instances the presence of the pools was probably due to the melting of the
snow. There was often no distinguishing feature in these places, and we would have no intimation of their
proximity until we had broken through the slight covering of snow and found the chilling water pouring
over our boot tops. Camped at 8.30 a. m. 2 miles north of Cape Lieber, having traveled 22 miles; made
good 18. Started again at 6 p. m., and for the first two hours found the traveling unchanged from the
latter part of our first march, except that water pools became more numerous as we approached opposite
to Cape Lieber. An old floe of considerable extent furnished us with excellent traveling for some time;
and from this we found the ice to be of an entirely different character, being new and evidently formed at
a late period last winter; its surface perfectly smooth and, except an occasional floe-berg stranded near the
shore, entirely free of heavy ice. Reached Cape Cracroft at 10 p. m., and in seven minutes had the gauge in
position and a reading taken, a tidal crack 3 feet [.9"'] wide rendered chopping unnecessary, Traveled 12
miles ; made good 10. Our progress during the last two hours of travel had been much retarded by a high
southerly wind.

During the 30th and 31st we were employed on the tides, only high and low water being observed.
In order to secure the most satisfactory results we began by taking minute readings half an hour before, and
continued taking them for nearly half an hour after the change in the tide. But this method was soon
discontinued and only each change of o.i inch [2.54"""] was recorded. A high wind, often accompanied by
driving snow, prevailed during our stay at the cape. At times it was very violent, the velocity estimated
at 30 to 35 miles per hour [13 to 15'" per second].

THE LADY FRAXKMN BAY EXPEDITION.

271

On the 31st I sent Frederik Christiansen down the coast for the purpose of hunting. He reported
on his return having entered the valley south of Cape Cracroft, where he killed a hare and saw tracks of two
musk-oxen which had visited the excellent grazing grounds at the coast and then returned into the interior.
I questioned him closely with reference to the practicability of the valley for sledging, with a view of
returning by that route to look for the musk-oxen. He did not consider the valley feasible, owing to a
rocky creek bed and the scarcity of miow. From an elevated position could discern no open water to the
southward. He saw four small seals during his absence, but owing to the smooth surface of the floe he
could not approach near enough for a shot. From an elevation of 500 feet [152'"] I could ('etect no material
change in the nature of the ice to the east or south.

Sounding taken in tidal crack at the gauge, which gave us 40 feet [12"'] of water and a rock bottom.
Juiiging from the movement of the line at this stage of the tide (ebb), it would seem to indicate a strong set
of the current to the northward.

During occasional lulls in the storm and the intervals between observations, we made a collection of
fossils, wliich comprised several specimens of each of the diflerent species observed by us.

On the morning of June i we returned to Cape Baird, having completed the series of nine observations
at I a. m. of that date. Several dangerous-looking cracks in the ice, which we had noticed on the outward
trip, extending from the ice-foot in the direction of the Greenland coast, had visibly increased in width. I
think an early disruption of the ice in Kennedy Channel may be exjiected this season. Off Cajjc l.ieber
we fell into a treacherous fissure, by the giving way of a thin d.ift which concciled it from our view, and
narrowly escaped a ducking by getting quickly on the floating sledge and leaping to the firm ice. Our
clothing, however, was thoroughly saturated above our knees and our boots filled with water.

I decided to remain at the Cape Baird depot for a day for the purpose of hunting but our eflbrts were
not crowned with much success, although we hunted indefatigably. Only one hare was shot ; another hare, a
seal, ptarmigan, and pair of turnstones were all the game seen. The tracks of one fox only were seen. 'i"he
cliffs east of the tent I found to contain several species of fossils, a few of which are in our collection.

While hunting along the shore of Archer Fiord, about 4 miles southwest of Cape Baird, I ascended the
first of a series of low receding hills, the summit of which was about 800 feet (244"'| above and one-half
mile [804 '"J from the fiord. Its formation was of black sandstone, very brittle, and easily crumbled between
the fingers. By attrition of the wind and weather the rocks had been reduced to a fine sand, through which
stratified ridges, of the same general character, occasionally protruded for a few inches.

Near the summit of the hill I discovered the trunk of a petrified tree, about 7 feet [2"'J in length and 5
inches [i27n>"'] in diameter. It had broken into sections of from 4 to 10 inches each [102 to 254"""], but no
piece was missing from its place. The diameter of the piece was much lessened by the loss of successive
layers under action of the elements. It originally must have been at least 10 inches [254"""]. A section of
this tree will be found in the collection, marked No. i. Further search revealed to me the existence of eleven
trees in the same state of petrifaction within the limits of 100 yards fgi"'] square. The trunks of several of
these trees were embedded in the sandy soil, and portions varying from i to 7 feet [.3 to 2"'J protruded above
the surface. Not having any instrument with which I could make an excavation, I had no means of ascer-
taining the length of the bi-ried portion. In one instance, however, it must have been considerable if the
length was commensurate with the diameter. Only 3 feet [.9'"] of the body was exposed above the surface,
and the diameter was about y by 16 inches [229 by 406'"'"], its end being of an oval form, and bore evidence
of having been subjected to considerable pressure. This was the largest trunk seen, and was of a firmer
structure than any of the others. The next in size was about 1 2 inches [305"™ | in diameter, of a very friable
and britde nature. Of this I brought away a small specimen (No. 2). I also brought a specimen of sand-
stone (No. 3), which exhibits the general formation of the hill; and other similar pieces of rock (package
No. 4) bear impression of fossil twigs, leaves, and stems.

The entire surface of the hill was strewed about with small fragments of the petrifactions, many of which
were crystallized. I subsequently discovered other specimens of fossil wood at the base of the cliffs, 2 miles
from Baird, but, being already heavily loaded with specimens, I did not feel equal to the task of climbing a
thousand feet [305'"] up the steep incline to discover their origin.

Starting at i o'clock on the morning of May 3, we reached this station at 4.30 a. m. same date. Only
TYz hours were occupied in making the return trip from Cape Cracroft, this being 4>^ hours less than the

272

THE LADY FRANKLFN J»AY EXPKDmON.

time consumed in making the outward trip. The difference .in time was due to the improvement in -the
traveling made by the storm whiih prevailed during our stay at Cape Cracroft.

Sergeant (lardiner rendered me every .assistance in his power, and Christiansen fully sustaineil his previous
reputation as an energetic and indefatigable driver.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, *

U. I-. Brainari),
- SfrgeaiU, G, S,, U. S. Army.

First Lieut. A. W. Creei.v,

Fifth Cavalry, A. S, O. and Assistant, Commanding Expedition.

Appenpix No. 84. — Scrtrcaut Gardiner'' s report on journey to Cape Cracrofl,

Fort Coniskr, Grin.nkii, Land, yune 5, 1883.

Sir: I have the honor to make the following report in regard to si)ecimens of fossils collected while at
Cape Cracroft, Grinnell Land, during the 30th anil 31st days of May, 1883;

All of the specimens were found in a bed of black fragmental rock, which, when struck with the hammer,
broke into rough slabs or sometimes lumps. It was of exceedingly f.ne grain and could not be examined
thoroughly without the aid of a microscope. The bed was at the base of the clitis extending along the
sea level. It was traversed vertically by narrow seams of (juartz.

The cliffs were 2,000 feet [6io'"J or over in height and very bold, showing the stratification in long
waves though sometimes much contorted and bent at sharp turns. It appeared to be composed of numerous
layers of sandstone many feet in thickness, interspersed near the top by some lighter bands of rock.

With the aid of Dana's Manual of Geology I have been able to approximately determine most of the
iossils as belonging to the Ui)|)er and Lower Silurian Periods,

Specimen No. 2 is similar to F'ig. 362, page 202, Dana's Geology. The specimen was broken during

transjwrtation. When complete it measured 7 inches [178"""] in length and 3 inches [76 | in width. It

is of a white substance about 1^4 inches [44 ] in width, forming a core from which jirojccts a number of

spines extending to the edge where they are bounded by a very narrow edge or rim of white. There is a
small indentation in top.

Specimen No. 3 is apparently similar to M. beliicihcta. Fig. 346, page 201. It is a portion of a conical
shell. When complete the shell was probably 5 or 6 inches [127 or 152'""'] in length and 3 inches [76"""]
in diameter.

Specimen No. 4 consists of a portion of shell being a horizontal section, showing the curve, and was
about 2 inches [51"""] in diameter. It is similar to Fig. 349, page 201.

S[)ecimen No. 5 is similar to Columnaria alveolata. Fig. 318, page 199. I observed many specimens
of this fossil, some of which were a foot or more in diameter.

Specim.Mi No. 6 is of a honey-combed appearance, and is very much similar to Fig. 408, page 224,
Chcctetes. A si)ecies of coral.

Specimen No. 7 is sunilar to No. 6, and also to C/icetetcs lyccperdon. Fig. 320, page 199.

Many specimens were observed, some of which were 3 or 4 feet [.9'" or 1.2 '"J in diameter and a foot
[,3'"j in thickness. In shape they were nearly flat on the bottom ami rounded on top, being highest in the
center.

Specimen No. 8 is similar to Fig. 355, page 201, Ormoceras tenuijilum. Many of this species seen, but
it was difficult to obtain a good si)ecimen. One which I observed was the length of a gun-barrel. It was
prob;d)ly much longer, as the ends were broken or disappeared in the rock.

Specimen No. 9 is 8 inches [203"""] in length and i^ inches [32"""] wide at the broadest part, from
which it gradually tapers to the smaller end. It appears to be a white core from which projects spines
along the sides at spaces of one-fourth inch [6"""].

Specimen No. 1 o is a confused mass of small round pieces of coral rock, one-fourth inch [6"""] in diameter,
and some of tlie jjieces (may be incomplete) 2 inches [51"""] in length. These pieces have a small black
core through the center.

THK LADV FKANKLIN HAY KXrKDlTlON.

273

jruvious

I observed severni sncrimens exactly similar to Fij;. 477, pa^e 24^1. Thoy were one -half to i inch

[u.7to 25.4 J in diameter, consisting of a narrow liand or rim of white, from wliicli ntinieroiis spines

projected towards the center. During my stay at Cape Cracroft, tht' vioieiil wind-storm wliit h continued
during tlie whole of the time was an efre<'lual drawback to a (lose examination of the higher stratification.
The rocks were falling continually, making it dangerous clitnLing along the face of the cliff.

Floeberg at Cape Baird, showing stratificaUon. (MeiRht of floeber^, about 35 feet above main pack.)
[From drawing by Sergeant (iardiiier.)

Duplicates of all the fossils were obtained, and I have picked from the number a represent -stive speci-
men of each kind. They have been i)acked separately and marked according to the foregoing list, and
returned with this report.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

If. S. Gardinkr,

Sergeant, Signal Sendee, U. S. Army.
Lieut. A. W. Grkely,

First LieuUnant, Fifth Cavalry, U, S, Army, Commanding Polar Expedition,
H. Mis. 393 18

274

TIIK LADY FRANKLIN HAY KXPKDITION.

Appendix No. 85. — l.iculcnant Lockivond^ s orders to cross Grinnell I md,

?'oRT Conger, Grinnem. Lanii, ^//-//24, 1883.
Sir: You will leave this statiun on or about April 35 for the purposes of inland exploration to the
southwcstward via Archer Fiord. You will especially endeavor to reach such an elevated point inland as
will enable you to judge conclusively if the mountain range seen to the southwcstward from Mount Chester
A. Arthur in July, 1882, is on a land separate from Crinnell Land. It is possible that Mount Jeffers ma^
b« reached by striking the high land to the southwest of Klla Hay.

In addition to the dog-sledge taken, a supporting sledge will accompany you two days' march from
this station.

In case you are turned back before May 1 by the impracticable nature of the country, you ran, in your

discretion, visit the extreme northern end uf Lake Hazen in order to determine the discharge points of the

several glaciers which lying northward of the lake are yet apparently separated from it by a range of hills.

You will be absent not exceeding thirty days, and the arrangement of the details of the journey are

intrusted to you.

I am, r, respectfully yours,

A. \V. Greely,
First Lieutenant, Fijth Cavalry, A. S. 0. and Assistant, Commandirig,

Second Lieut. James B. Lockwood,

Twenty-third Injantry, A. S. O.

Appendix No. 86. — Lieutenant Lockwood\<! report on the crossing 0/ Grinnell Land.

Fort CoNi.ER, Grinnell Land, yune 21, 1883.

Sir: I have the honor to render the following summary of my last sledge journey to the west, occu-
pying from April 25 to May 26, 1883.

The outfit consisted of Christiansen's team (ten dogs) and sledge, and thirty days' rations, &c. To this
I added the small "hand-sledge," shelter tent, two knapsacks, &c., to provide against all contingencies as
far as possible, for I hardly expected to get much farther than the head of the fiord with the la rj^e sledge or
to be able to proceed many days beyond with the small one, and expected to use the knapsacks before turn-
ing back. The route proposed was to the head of Archer Fiord and thence inland by the valley beyond
Ella Bay in a general west or southwest direction until the rations gave out, if it were possible to travel so
long.

With Sergeant Brainard and Christiansen, the Eskimo, on the evening of April 25 I left the station,
accompanied by a supporting sledge. Sergeant Elison and Jens (Eskimo), for the first two marches. The
travel in the harbor proved extremely bad on account of deep soft snow. Beyond, however, it was better.
We camped at Stony Cape. After this the travel continued to improve till E^lla Bay (at the head of the
fiord) was reached. When the supporting sledge turned back on the morning of the third day's journey we
were able to get along with everything, about 970 pounds, very well.

The fourth march out took us to the head of Ella Bay and of the fiord, about 67 miles from Fort
Conger, according to the report of Lieutenant Archer, R. N., who explored this fiord. The valley beyond
has a general trend to the southwest and is walled in by grand heights and cliffs on each side ; its lower part
is occupied by a small lake. One short march took us up the valley as far as we could go, about 10 miles,
elevation 150 feet [46""]. Latitude, 80° 59' 42.5", longitude, 70° 41', observed.

Here the terminal face of a large glacier stretched from side to side, and a very short survey of the
scene made it evident that nothing could be done in this direction with either of the sledges. On further
examination an advance by means of the " pack outfit " seemed almost equally unpromising.

We remained here two days, thirteen hours of which were spent by myself and Sergeant Brainard in
ascending the precipitous cliffs to the left, gaining an altitude of [•] feet.

The weather was not very good, and the view from the top somewhat disappointing. The cliffs to the
north and east also obstructed the view. To the south lay a maze of cone shaped mountain peaks, separated

♦Omission in original. — A. W.G.

THK LADY FKANKI-IX HAY KXI'KDITION.

275

Irainard in

l)y deep and narrow valleys, and the whole covered witli ii e and snow. Scvor.il nla< iors were seen in this
direction. To the west and southwest many isolated suniinits wire .ilso notii ed, but they seemed mostly
great dome-shaped heights, rather than peaks, rising hke wines on the liori/on. A peak, however, of the
ordinary kind was noticed at a f;reat distance, prohahly 75 miles. It Ixire S. 60" W. (true). To the north
and northwest sections o I" the (lartield Range, and United States Mountains lieyond, were ([uite plain, their
profiles projecting up like true sierras.

Heyond the opposite side (north) of the valley, in whi( h lay our c.imp, cnulil be seen several glacier-
like formations, and the country to the west and south was apparently iie cap|)ed. At tiiis season, however,
it is very difficult to dislinguish at a distance between ice and snow. The oi\ly sure test is the sight of a
glacier "wall" or break in the surface. These walls almost always have a greenish tint. 'I'he valley above-
camp continued to trend to the southwest for about 20 or 25 miles, when a prominent pyramid shaped
mountain terminateil it. The glacier occupied its whole extent, and may have a continuation to tiie south.
A branch glacier came in from the north just above camp.

The whole surface of the country, in every direction, had a great elevation. Nothing like an extended
plain or wide valley of any extent was anywhere noticed. The fa( e of the gl.acier, or width of the valley,
near camp was 1,600 yards [1,463'"], found by ji.acing the distance otT, and the "wall" was 150 feet [\0"\
high per sextant angle 100 yards [91'"] c///. Latitude 81009' 50", longitude 70° 31', observed. Having
taken numerous observations for latitude and longitude, we turned back to VWa. IJay and thence proceeded
to the head of the northern arm at the head of the fiord, Beatrix liay, making two marches of the distance,
about [•] miles. Having abundant rations I took it (piite leisurely. The difls around these bays are i)ar-
ticularly grand, rising almost vertically 3,000 feet [9<4"'] or more. I measured those on tiie south side of
Klla Hay, and made them 4,097 feet [1,249"']. They are all prob.al)ly ice-capped. Miniature glaciers were
observed hanging over the edges in places.

We lay over a day at Beatrix Bay to find the best way to proceed. Two or three narrow ravines from
the west looked so unfavorable that I finally started up the main valley leading in a NNW. direction. The
valley is from 2 to 3 miles wide and is walled in by the most imposing cliffs, very steep and f)f immense
height. A marchof 9 miles brought us to its head, and it being hardly practicable to ])roceed farther with the
large sledge, we again lay over a day to reconnoitre. FLlevation of camp, 700 feet [213"']. Base ; latitude
81" 16' 59", longitude 70° 46', observed.

An adjoining mountain, 2,900 feet [884'"], was ascended to get an outlook. The most conspicuous
object was a line of cliffs about a half dozen miles to the north, seemmg to mark a large valley or lake
extending towards the east and west. The view at some few miles in either direction was cut off by
intervening heights. Between this valley and camp lay an elevated depression, forming a divide between
the two water-courses. Much of its surface was occupied by a small lake. We had crossed this in
ascending. The ice, where exposed in places near shore, was so transparent that stones could be seen on
the bottom. The lake apparently drained both north and south. The Garfield and United States Mountains
were quite prominent, and in the midst of the former the Henrietta Nesmith glacier was soon perceived.
The intervening country seemed comparatively low and of rather a mountainous aspect. The depression
occupied by Lake Hazen was readily seen. The compass bearings of a number of peaks and elevated
" domes" were taken, some of which correspond nearly with the positions of Mount Arthur and Mounts Augur
and Russell. Two or three branches of the valley referred to were traced towards the southwest several
miles. Towards the horizon between southwest and southeast the country seemed greatly elevated and had
every appearance of being ice-capped. Off towards the south about 10 miles was an ice wall, doubtless the
flank of the branch glacier to the north of our camp in the Ella Bay Valley. Many of the dome-shaped
heights, " hogbacks," in this direction must be over 5000 feet [1,524"'] in altitude. Several remained visible
from every elevation for several days afterwards.

A ravine to the southwest offered a route, though a difficult one, but I decided to make a reconnaissance
to the large valley referred to, to the north. After a rest we started accordingly, taking the dog-team and
small empty sledge. An hour's fast traveling brought us to the heights overlooking Musk-ox Valley and
another hour was occupied in getting down a rocky gorge to the river bed. It was seen to be a valley
trending off towards the WSW. on one hand and the NE. on the other. Two hours' journey in the latter
direction proved that w a were going down stream. The valley is 3 or 4 miles wide on an average, probably

*Omission iu original. — A. W. G.

ii !'

I! i;

ilil i!'

Jill

.'t!

276

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION,

bounded on the north side by clifts and on the south by great heights, but not so precipitous. The extent
of it seen during the day was about 1 5 miles in a straight line. Hefore returning to camp we saw four musk-
oxen and shot one for dog-lood. A better route out of the valley was discovered on our return, to the east
of the rocky gorge referred to.

This valley offered the best means of advancing west, but it was necessary to take the little sledge and
shelter-tent, and to reduce all weights to the lowest possible limit. The si^dge-runners were very much worn
by this preliminary journey, anil twelve days' absence was all I thought it well to attempt, expecting towards
the close to have to resort to the knajisacks. i"\:c. 'J"he outfit, consisting of eleven days' rations, 1 13 [lounds
l)emniican (tor the dogs), &c., weighed by estimate, 328 pounds. We left our base of sup[)lies (the big tent
and sledge) at 12.15 a. m., May 8, and, reaching the valley to the east of the Rocky Gorge, traveled about a
half-dozen miles ui)-stream and went into camj). Camp 1. Latitude, 81 ' 18' 25", longitude, 71° 01', ob-
served.

The next day's march took us to what bad seemed the end of the valley or height stretching directly
across. Here two hours or more were spent in a reconnaissance. The stream came out of a canon to the
south and apparently terminated in a glacier, the walls of which were distinctly visible at 8 or 10 miles in
that direction. The general course of the valley was continued in a narrow gap just north of the heights
referred to. It was very unpromising, being full of rocks r.nd stones, but the caiion referred to seemed
the only other resort. The sleilge had overturned shortly after sta.ting on this day's march, the uprights of
one runner being all broken short off in the mortises, but were mended "after a fashion." Now the runner
" flopped over" so continually that it was necessary to camp anil " fix it," after proceeding a few miles up
this gap. The march was a short one conse(iiiently — about 8 miles. Camp H. Latitude, 81° 15' 35",
longitude, 71° 46', observed.

A cache was made here of rations, and, on account of the mishap to the sledge, the snow-shoes, ax, &c.,
were left behind.

This gap is about 4 or 5 miles in extent. At its western end the stream-bed occupies the middle of a
long plain-like valley, spreading out into a lake of some size about liie middle. On each side runs a low
range of hills, and at its end towards the WSW. is a mountain which appears to close it in, about 15 or 20
miles from the gap. The wall of a glacier apparently runs along the south side of the valley, just back of
the low range of hills on that side, and the country behind it seemed one continuous glacier surface. All
this was seen from the heights near the gap. TIk; next march, the third from our base, took us WSW.,
beyond the mountain referred 10 and close to the glacier wall — the " Chinese wall," as I called it. We had
been gradually ascending, and now the barometer showed an elevation of [*] feet. The wall here per sex-
tant angle and distance paced off was 143 feet [44"'] high.

We now followed along the wall, gaining a greater altitude in every hour's travel, keeping the same
general direction, till we gained the top of what is doubtless the water-shed of (Irinnell Land. A detour of
a mile or two to the north gave a slightly greater elevation, the barometer showing [•] feet above the sea-
level. The view to the south was cut off by the //irr dc ^^lacf a few miles from the wall. Its gently undu-
lating surface formed the horizon in that direction. The course of the last three marches, however, was
plainly visible — the mountain ascended near our base of supplies, and a few degrees farther to the right
(ENE.) .several lofty domes, evidently ice-clad.

The view to the north was restricted by the extension in that direction of the ridge on which we stood
to the distant mountain ranges. Off towards the northwest several miles a large lake was discovered, prob-
ably 10 miles across. A streamlet extended southeast from it to the "Chinese wall " and occupied a depres-
sion, for"iing a wide, sloping valley. Beyond this valley, and extending from the lake to the prolongation
of the wall to the southwest, the country was broken and mountainous. A line of cliffs was seen, extending
in azimuth from SW. io WSW., marking the valley we di-scended the ncxt day. A mountain peak appeared
to the north, which, from its bearing and distance, I think must have been Mount Arthur. The ground
adjoining the great wall, on either side of the divide, had a gradual slope to the north. I was surprised to
see no continuous ravine or noticeable water-course which served to drain the melted ice to the east and
west. Many lakes were seen and crossed along the wall, and in places narrow, ditch-like gulches, washed
out evidently by the water, but the glacier 'aco extended U])hill and downhi". across the country in a very
arbitrary fashion.

•Omissi(/n in original — A. V. C.

^im^

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

277

Some miles beyond the lakc-glacier stream referred to, the wall inclined more to the southwest and I
left it ..nd obli(iued to the right. We soon gained a considerable elevation near a smai. lake surroun<lcd
by mountains (elevation [•] feet). It seemed to tlrain both east and west. Proceeding west down a narrow
ravine we soon came to a steej) snowbank, an almost vertical fall of 60 feet [>8"']. Camp IV. Latitude,
81° 05' 10", longitude, 74° 41, observed.

We descended this at the next march, the 5th, and proceeding down a narrow gorge, with towering
mountains all around, in three-quarters of an hour lost a thousand feet [305'"! of altitude and came out
into a deep, narrow valley. The route taken seemed to be the only one by which the descent could have
been accomplished. .Some miles down this valley we.ame to a branch from the left, filled by a large glacier
and discharging into a large lake. Another glacier entered the lake from the south at its farther end
and, beyond the line of cliffs marking the soutli side of the valley or lake, obliqued to the right and was
lost to view. We gained the end of the lake and camped. Camp V. Latitude, 80° 56' 27, longitude,
76° 13', observed.

A few miles farther the next day (the 6th Ma>ch) and we discovered salt water and the he.id of a fiord
named Greely Fiord. The last glacier here iiischarged. \ few miles farther west a large twin glacier came
in from the south. Bear tracks were here seen. We proceeded about 26 miles down the fiord and camped
(the Farthest, May 13, sixth camp) in a heavy snow-storm at 12.30 p. m.

lly making a long fast of nineteen hours, and then cutting down the dog-food and the rations still on hand
for part of the homeward journey to the lowest limit, we were enabled to re'- ain here till the storm abated
and the weather became quite clear at times. Complete sets of observations for hititude and longitude
were obtained and many compass bearings, iVc. The cliffs on the south side were ascended by Sergeant
Brainard anil myself and a point readied 3 or 4 miles farther to the west. From this elevation a good view
was obtained, except of the mouth of the fiord, which a suddenly rising storm shut out. Later, however,
from a position on the fiord itself, several miles from shore, the extreme capes of the fioril were clearly seen.
Caretul examination with the telescope, from here am\ from camp, on many occasi ns, failed to reveal any
land between. Distances and bearings are all by estimate and compass sights, it being impracticable to do
any satisfactory triangulating on account of the \v" ther, the deep soft snow uniformly coverin<^ the fiord, iS:c.

The fiord is between 60 and 80 miles long, the south shorf! being considerably longer than the north.
Whether ihe farthest cape on the former side was on the farther side of an intervening branch or on an
island, could not be determined. The fiord near its heatl may be said to be 10 miles wide and 15 or more
at its mouth. The whole shore-line is bounded by steep, high cliffs, broken by ravines, valleys, and a few
branc h fiords. At the head it forms two bays, the one to the north, like the other (which we traversed),
being probably the outlet of a long valley or lake. Beyond the shore-line in every direction the country is
very elevated. Thirty or 40 miles beyond the north shore and extending east and west was a conspicuous
mountain range. Off towards the northwest, somewhat nearer, was a large glacier. From the clitVs ascended
the country to the south appeared more uniform in appearance — a series of immense ire-cappeil unilulations
of great elevation. A glacier w.as distinguished some 20 miles to the south, apparently another offshoot of
the " C;hinese wall," the face of a gr .."at //ur i/f ;^/air being traced a few miles towards the east and west.
Fossil remains were found on these cliffs — of wood and fishes seemingly. It was impracticable to get any
tidal observations in this fiord, having no ax or sp.ide along, nor anytliing that could be used as a rod.

The position of the " Farthest," as since deduced, is latitude 80° 48' 39"; longitude, 78° 26' .vest;
magnetic variation, 116° 35' ± 1° 3'.

We started on return at 8.15 a. m., May 16, camping at the same places as on the outward journey and
reaching our base in six m.'rches. At the second camp on return-it was necessary to u.ll one of the dogs
for dog-food. The traveling generally and on the fiord especially was rendered much wo.se by the storm.
The homeward route was the same, except tliat I went to the head of Simnionds Bay (of Archer Fiord)
and thence with the little sledge exjjlored the valley beyond. This valley is mostly occupied by a long lake.
After proceeding about 15 miles in a N N W. direction we encountered, as expected, the prolongation of
Musk-ox Valley trending off towards the northeast and west. I had imagined its outlet was Sinmionds
Bay, but think now it must be Ida Bay (of Chandler Fiord). Further down Archer Fioril Christiansen killed
a harbor seal, a large one of the kind, weigli |)robably 200 pounds.

*Ojnissiou in oiiulmil. — A. \V. (j.

j78

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

lii

The snow in Discovery Harbor was found worse than before. " Howler" gave out and was left behind,
and has since been found dead. The large sledge was dropped, and we came in with the small one, reaching
Fort Conger at noon.

May 26. — The great mcr de glace discovered on this trip extends, I think without any doubt, continu-
ously from Archer to Greely Fiord. From a mountain near second camo on return the wall was seen
trending cff towards the southwest a distance J estimated at 40 miles. It was also seen in other places
besides those mentioned in the foregoing pages. And the general aspect of the country to the south seemed
to confirm the idea.

Of the extent of the mer de glace to the south of its northern face it is hard to form an opinion. Ice
was often clearly discerned for a half-dozen miles or more, and the prospect towards the south was always
white and apparently that of an ice clad surface, very high. On account of this elevation I could seldom
see much farther directly south than this, even from mountains ascended. Judging from this i.he mer de glace
must be of enormous depth just back of its face, unless its base rises in altitude towards the sc iin, which the
slope of the ground to the north would seem to oppose.

The height of the wall bears a very small proportion to the elevation back of it ; that at the head of
the valley above Ella Bay was 160 feet [49'"], and at camp near "divide" of Grinnell Land 143 feet [44'"].
I think, however, the latter was exceptionally low. Both were determined by sextant and distance deter-
mined by pacing. The " wall " in some places was evidently much higher. The wall is lined all alonp its
foot by blocks and fragments of ice constantly broken from the face above. The noise was often noticed.
No moraines or foreifr'' matter of any kind were observed on the surface, and crevasses were extremely few
and insignificant, e -cept ci the offshoot above P^Ua Bay and the two above Greely Fiord. The surface was
often noticed to have a mottled appearance, probably due to slight depressions in its gentle undulations.
Of moraines along the wall there were very few or none at all, and only noticeable in one place where
a low ridge of earth anil stones ran parallel with it a few feet out. This wall was generally of a uniform
white color; the glacier face above Ella Bay was distinctly marked, green above and white below. In one
or two places a few feet in extent the mer de g! ne sloped down to the ground, and here might have been
ascended apj/rr'-ntly. Elsewhere the wall for icd a continuous vertical plane. The ground to the north
of it, especially on the divide, &c., had a singularly smooth appearance, as if it had once formed the base
of this mass of ice.

Many small icebergs were seen at the head of Greely Fiord in both the bays [temporarily named Ad^hi
and Aiitoiiietle], as well as an occasional stray one farther down. They were as far as I could juilge entirely
similar to the ordinary floe-berg of the straits and the north coast of Greenland, varying like the latter in
shape, height, &c. Tho.se in the southern bay or arm of the fiord were close to the glacier and were un-
doubtedly detachments from it. The others must also have had the same origin. This glacier had great
numbers of transverse crevasses near its end, from which it would seem that these bergs break off and fall,
rather than become detached by their buoyancy. Similar crevasses were noticed at tiie end of the glacier,
discharging into the lake just to the east. There was no noticeable difference in the character of the ice
of Greely Fiord from that of Archer Fiord, &c. There was very little snow in Musk-ox Valley and also
on the "divide"; tlie absence of it was very noticeable on the latter, the small stones with whicli the ground
was covered being continually exposed in small areas.

Tracks of game were tjuite abundant, but not much game was seen, four musk-oxen, seals on botli fiords,
a few ptarmigan, and one hare being all. Of these one musk-ox, one seal (Archer Fiord), two ptarmigan,
and one luire (Ella Bay Valley and Musk-ox Valley, respectively) were shot. Bear tracks were seen in two
places at the head of Greely Fiord, and fox tracks also, but tracks of small game were extremely scarce
beyond Camp IV. Very old musk-ox droppings, however, were seen in the valley just beyond. Fresh
musk-ox tracks were seen on the divide as well as to the east of it, also along the shore of Ella Bay.
Numerous lemming, ermine, and ptarmigan tracks weie seen daily. An owl was seen one day and snow-
birds wete ([uite numerous. Wolf tracks were seen about Sun Bay and Miller's Island.

With regard to a sledge jjarty (with dogs) goiag overland and exploring the western coast with the
vicinity of this station as a base, I think it would hi feasible, at least for a short distance by following
the vdl-'y north of Simmonds Bay and thence taking my course. The journey would be very laborious.

I ap|)end to this some trat ings (the outlines) of sketches made during the trip. The details ot my
journey, iS;c., may be found in my sledge journal.

^ ■■ 'niirmrtiii''-^

■*

The I. ally Kranklin May Kxiiciliiiun, \'ol. I.

Plate I.

od was left behind,
mall one, reaching

ny doubt, continu-
the wall was seen
en in other places
) the south seemed

an opinion. Ice
south was always
m I could seldom
lis ilie mcr de f^liue
esc.4in, which the

lat at the head of
nd 143 feet [44'"].
id distance deter-
lined all alonf its
vas often noticed,
ere extremely few
The surface was
entle undulations,
one pKice where
ally of a uniform
: below. In one
might have been
jnd to the north
: formed the base

ily named AJfla
Id judge entirely
like the latter in
ler and were un-
;lacier had great
ak off iind fall,
of the glacier,
acter of tiie ice
Valley and also
hich the ground

on both fiords,

wo i)tarmigan,
ere seen in two

tremely scarce
leyond. Fresh
of Klia Hay.
day anil snow-
coast with tiie
e by following

laborious.

details ol my

'■*-'-' ^" ?. .» -r" ^."'

"''*•_- ■-'•'. "^j •» ■ .'■^^r^u.Mi-

I'li;. I. r.\i 1. ul' CJI.ACIKK AliuVK li.MMA IJAV (1 Kll.M 'll-.M). Al'Kll. JO, iSSj.

I'll.. J. I'l.ANK \'|IAV HI SaMK IKciM SK. CuKNKK.

May I, iS8j.

I'u;. 3. Mi.R i)K Gi.ACic '•t'niM.M-; Wai.i." irsr
Wkstok "I)ivii)k",I,o()K1no L\st (ai I.akk
IIauuv;. Mav iS. iSSj.

;'i

I (

Tlic Laily Iruuklin Hay lixpcilili.in, \oI. I.

Plate II.

6i@[J!jjgLirir

i'-'"-"^''

Fk;. 4. Mlr uii tJi-Aci; "CIhinks!-. \Vai.i." wiir.ur. iirst Ai'i'Ku.uiiiai, jis:' Last hk

Camp XI. M.w 10, iSSj.

Kic. 5. (ii.Acii u " I'l.oKiii.ui;," Ili.Ai) 111- (iKKr.i V Kmuii
^.Vniuimi'ik liAV). May 13, 1SS3.

l-'n;. 6. ("i|-i'siiiKir nv \\\v. Mkk hi: (iiAii-. 'I'lir.
Swrr. .\,s l-'ii;. S. 'rill'. Illi.i.-sini s (in iiii, l.i i r

OlKKKSI'ilNli. Xl.AK III Ah i«l' l.NKI', 1:1 IWIl.N

Cami'.sXII am>\III. May u\ 1SS3.

riic l.iiilv I'ruiiklin Hay Kxpfcliticin, \'(j1. 1.

Plate III

llli. 7. (il.AinU " I'l.ill.l;! Kil " AlCllAllKK Ar lIlAlinl CiRI l-,| Y I'loKh, M\Y IJ, iSSj.

l-'li;. S. (.il.AUl.U IC.MKKl.NG XaI.I.i .. TllK (Mils K 1 llll: RlLlH \K\. AT lllK lll-.Al) HI' 1111. FluRl)

(Anioini iTi: l!\v). May 12, iSSj.

l''li;. I). l.AKI . OlAill-.K, AMI Mm NIAINS I KdM Wl.sl' I '.Mi HI l.\M , (AMI' .Mil. Till. Km II. 1.1 IS lllKC)l:i;il

1111; l''oui.i;K(ir.M> 111' iiiK Ski nil in ilii: Diuici ihn ii|- iiii: .\kkii\v-iii.\i>. M w 12, iSS;.

I'U;. 10. lil Aill.K AM" Cl.UlS I KiiM V.\-,l K.Ml dl' I,.\Kl:', C\M1' .Mil is in lliK Klillil'

I'uKWMuuM). May 12, iSSj.

I ;i

• :|f

! ,1

{

!l!

1^ I I ll' '(I— ll-^

i'bu Laily Imnklin Kuy Lxpeililiuii, \'i>l 1.

Plate IV.

l''l(i. 1 I. \'|K\V ID I III \Vl ^l I KiiNI III Ml III I'liiKli, Till- ("M'l 111 illl- 1 I I- I M AKKS WksT
EXI'KI.MI. Ill' llW Al IIl.Ali III' (iKI.I.l.V I'liilU). MaV Ij, iSSj.

KlU. 12. N'llAV 111 1111^ \Vi ^1 IIUIM l-AKlUKal. -MaV I4, iSSj.

-"^"^

vmRiF^^Rn

?T^r;?trt^««**^;

I'lli. 15. l-ARIIII.sr l.AM) UN SoCTII SlDK (IRUM (HT rRUM SlIOUK SdMK Mll.IvS). TlllC AUKllW

"A" Marks a Skuminc Hrancii Fiord ur C'iianni;i. ; "li." A I'Rijuaiu.b Urancii I'uiru.
May 15, iS,S3.

I'"l(;. 14. lll.Al) 111 FluKU IRliM I'AKTIIl.sl. CAMI' X 1 1 1 LU.S L.MUJi TllL ARROW. .MaV I4, 1SS3.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

279

In conclusion I would say that Sergeant Flrainard displayeil liis wonted energy and discretion during
the trip and merits my most favorable notice. Christiansen also showed himself reliable and willing, and a
good dog driver in every respect.

I remain, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

J. B. LOCKWOOD,

StWHt/ Lifuteiumt, Tiventy-thmi Infantry^ A. S. O.
First Lieut. A. W. Greely,

J<)//A Cavalty, A. S, O. and Assistant, Commanding,

Sledge journal of exploring trip to the west toast of Crinnell iMnd^ April 25 to May 26, i88j.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, J^une, 1883.
First march. Fort Conger to Sionv Cape.

April 25. — At 8 p. m. left the station with the two dog-teams, ten dogs each. Sergeant Brainard, Chris-
tiansen (Eskimo), and myselfwith advance sledge; Sergeant Klison and Jens (Eskimo) with supporting sledge.
Rations for thirty days. Total weight on the two sledges about 1,000 pounds, including the hand-sledge
and Hudson Bay sledge packed with the loads. Course taken for the northwest extremity of Bellot Island.
Found the snow soft and deep, but still the dogs traveled on a trot and good progress was made, though it
was extremely fatiguing. We traveled on an unbroken expanse of snow for about the first hour, when hum-
mocks and rubbleice were encountered, till, opposite the Western Entrance, the large floe of ice formed last
fall was gained. The dogs were quite satisfied to relax their pace. Soon after this, snow softer and deeper
than ever was encountered in the midst of rubble-ice, in wlii( h the sledge went down over the slats and
"stuck" incessantly. With much work we managed to gain the shore of Sun Land and got along quite well
on an ice-foot, till, leaving it to cut across to Black Nob Point, this execrable snow was again met with.
Beyond this, however, in Basil Norris Bay, the traveling became good, and finally excellent.

April 26. — At 1.40 a. m., temperature — 14° [ — 25.6° C.]; weather very fine.

Reached the depot tent, which was found down ; repitched it. Left the Hudson Bay sledge and a few
other articles intended for the hunting party. Delayed perhaps a half hour, and then turned towards Sun
Bay. The snow overland found soft and deep, but on the bay pretty good. At 3.50 a. m. reached Stony
Cape and camped ; all much fatigued. Frequent short halts made during the march for rest. Fox tracks
seen in two or three places and fresh wolf tracks near present camp, apparently from up or across the fiord
and going north. Elison and Jens sleep in the shelter tent and eat with us. Supper at 5.30 a. m., and
about 6.30 turned in.

Time en route, [•]. Distance traveled, [•].

Second march, Stony Cape to beyond Hillock Depot.

At 4.20 p. m. Brainard lighted lamp. Breakfast at 5.30; p. m., temperature, -f 1° [—17.2° C] ; calm and
cloudy.

At 7 p. m. started en route. At 8 p. m. reached Cape Straight of Miller Island, and in two hours more
Keppel Head. A light crust on top the snow and the rapid pace of the dogs made it necessary to rest at
times. The traveling near Keppel Head rather better, and beyond that place much more so. Two hours
more in getting to Hillock Depot. The dog-food expected evidently eaten by foxes. The metallic case
and rubber box and contents put on the sledges, and we continued on for two hours.

Aprils"]. — At 3.05 a. m., temperature — 1°[ — 18.3° C.]; overcast ; no wind. Camped by a broad snow -
coveted shoulder, with gulch just beyond it. Stranded hummocks near by. Several wolf tracks seen during
the day and a seal-hole (small) between Miller Island and Stony Cape; fox tracks near the island, and
ptarmigan tracks at Hillock depot. Under these high cliffs we traveled in the shade. Barometer, 30.20
[767.07"""].

* Omission in original. — A.W.G.

280

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

*• \

Two days' rations left at tliis camj) (excepting alcoliol), the iJiKlish metal box coming in very conven-
iently for the purpose. All this part of the tionl is new ice, covered with snow, and extending ilown thus
probably as far as, or below, Keppel Head. IClison cooked. At 6.30 a. m. turned in. 'I'emijerature +5.5
[ — 14.7° C.j. Signs of a coming storm.

Time [•]. Distance (• J. Delays en rouk, nearly or about an hour.

Tmun MARCH, fkom Ant)VE Hillock Dkhdi- 10 di'pdshk Dki-ot I'niNr.

At 5.20 p.m. I lighted lamp; 6.40, breakfast. At 7.30 p, m. temperature —5.5 [ — JcS^C.]; sky over-
cast with broken bands.

At 8 p. m. both sledges started forward. At 9.15 p.m. the supporting sledge turned back after twenty
minutes delay and reached the depot tent in seven hours. The load on the advanced sledge was now 970
pounds, less food consumed and cached to date. 'I"hc traveling was very good and continuing to imi)rove.
'I'he dogs drew the heavy load readily, tlie snow being vry light. It was a great relief to go at a walk,
wliich the heavy load now obliged. St(jpped a few minutes in e.ich hour to rest, as breaking through the
snow crust made it fatiguing. Several fox tracks seen.

A/irilii. — At 2.55 a. m. camped about the middle of the fiord; 3.30 a. m., temjierature —5° [ — 2o.6o{".|.
Weather very fine ; bright and clear. The course for tlie pa i four hours has been directly towards Record
Point, Traveling excellent; 6 a. m. turned in. At 6 a. m. temperature —5° [ — 20.6° C.J.

Time [•]. Distance [•].

Fourth march, from opposite Depot Point to head of Ella Ray.

At 4 p. m. Ikainard lighted lamp for breakfast. .Vt 6 p. m, temperature —1° [— 18.0° C] ; clear and
calm.

At 6.25 p. m. left camp with everything. Traveling excellent ; snow light with moderately hard crust.
In three-quarters of an hour reached cajie of BuUey 's Lump, nearly opposite Depot Point. Here we delayed
half .an hour, and two bones showing Eskimo workmanshi]) were found ; they were very old.

April 2C). — At 12.15 'i-'ii- reached head of Ella Hay. Traveling to the west of Hulley's Luni]) not so
good; snow soft and deeper. After threeijuarters of an hour delay in pitching the tent, &c., I proceeded
with Frederik Christiansen and empty sledge up the stream betl. Found it would be practicable to pro-
ceed tomorrow with the load in this direction, and then returned to the tent at 2 a. m. Tracks of foxes,
hares, lemming, ermine, i)tarmigan, and musk-oxen seen in the vicinity. The last indicated the.se animals
making their way along the shore towards Record Point, and were ipiite fresh at about three d.ays old ; 5 a. m.
supper. Ice obtained from a hummock which had floated up here from the straits. .Sergeant Brainard did
all the cooking from this time forth. At 5 a. m. temperature +2° [—16.7° C.J; 6 a. m., barometer 30.425
[7 72. 78' |. Sky partly foggy and overcast.

Time ['J. Distance (to head of bay) ["J. Delays rn route \*\.

Fifth march, Ella Bay uv Valley to (Ilacier.

At 6 p. m. breakfast. Temperature —3° [—19.4° C.J; 7 p.m., barometer 30.50 [774. 69"""J. Disap-
pointed in not getting equal altitudes, the high cliffs Iiiding the sun. One day's dog-food and two day's rations
left here. At 8 p. m. broke camp and started. My intention was to follow the valley known to exist southwest
of the bay to the glacier at its head, thence continue inland towards the west or southwest as circumstances
allowed. We found it difficult to follow the ice of the stream-bed; stones and deep snow also made the
traveling laborious for some distance, bat after about an hour winding around several of the little hillocks
and " mesas " so common in the water-courses of this country we found ourselves at the near end of the lake
seen by me last summer. Before us to the southwest lay a straight level valley about 2 miles wide, walled
in on the south side by high, steep cliffs and closed at its end by a glacier about 10 miles distant. Along
its north side extended a rather low ridge, becoming higher as it ran inlanil. After traveling on the lake
some distance I ascended this ridge with Sergeant Brainard at a place where its altitude by barometer was
only 400 I'eet [i22°'J. It separated the lake from a rather wide ravine running into the b.ay. Beyond the
ravine were extremely high snow-covered heights. Saw the tracks of the three musk-oxen again j also hare,

*(Jiiiis^i(>ii ill iiri(jiiial. — A. VV. G.

THE LADY l-'UANKI.IN WW KXIMIDITION

281

fox, lemming, an<l ptarmigan tracks. I ostimated tl-. lak<; as \ miles long; it occiipiwl the breadth of the
valley and was < ovfred with snow, lieyond tiiL lake the ground was covercil with ice and hard snow
and the dogs traveled rapidly. The glacier face or wall se- med about lo feet [3"'| high. I'he glacier back
of it rose at an easy grade many times the height of the face, but it looked feasible to scale the wall and
travel on the surface beyond.

April 2,0.— \t 1. 10 a. m. reached the face of the glacier, having left the team with Christiansen back about
one fourth mile. An irregular bank of snow, or more probably a snow-covered moraine, varying in height,
but perhaps f)n an average one-third the height of the wall, lay against and hid its toot. .Sergeant Itrainard
and I walked to the top of this and were able there to touch the wall. Standing on the toj) of this bank
Sergeant Hrainard from below estimated the height above my head as twenty-five times my own height. I
saw no means of proceeding farther — at present at Ij.ast — and so returned to sledge and p ched tent. At a
a. m. temperature —95° [ — 23.i°C.]. At 3 a. m. barometer 30.325 [770.24"""]. Sky clear. Noticed a
decided fall in the temperature, due to our proximity to the gKacier. The face of the aneroid barometer
indicated .an altitude above the bay of 150 feet [46 "J- Latitude 80° 59' 42.5", longitude 70° 41' west,
observed.

Time [•] ; distance [•] ; delays en route [•].

AT GLACIER.

At 5.45 p. m. (30th), breakfast. At 6 p. m. temperature 4-4.5" [— 'S'3°C]. At 7.30 with Sergeant
IJrainard I left camp to reconnoiter, with the hope of fmding some w ay to the top of the glacier or up the
valley by its flank. In forty minutes we were at the south extremity of its front, but here the wall was seen
to exist all along the flank or almost or quite as high, a grand precipice of ire running close to the sleep
incline forming the pedestal of the huge cliffs. The incline for many hundred feet up was a mass of immense
rocks and bowlders with treacherous cracks between full of loose snow. The angle between the wall and
the incline was full of large fragments of ice, lately parts of the wall itself, making progress along the flank
so diflicult that we took to the bowlders. By asing both hands and feet we gained a considerable elevation,
and were able to overlook all the lower part of the glacier. The glacier apparently occupied the whole bed
of the valley and got higher and higher towards the southwe: t, till it was lost in the mountain peaks which
seemed to wall in the jnd of the valley some 20 or 30 \iiiles off in that direction. As the valley api)ar-
ently narrowed little or none in width I assume ! that its .gradient remained the same, and that the glacier
attained an immense depth. Very conspicuous .^as what seemed a branch glacier breaking throug'
a gap to the west but a few miles distant. Near the convex flank of the " branch " its surface had a very
sleep slope much broken up by lateral crevasses. The general surface seemed undulating and furrowed,
and covered in places only with a light depth of snow, but near the edges it sloped down very rapidly. After
.seeing all this I determined to gain the top of the cliffs for a more extended view, thinking the distance
r.ather a short one. We started, but more severe labor I never experienced. The mountain side was exceed-
ingly steep and appeared interminable. At* — a. m. barometer 27.65 [702.30"'"']. When the b.aronieter
showed an elevation of 2,550 feet [777"'] I found myself on a ledge of rocks from which for some time I
could get neither up nor down. From here I could see what seemed a lake in the midst of a glacier, and
just beyond the junction of the branch glacier referred to ; its level was far below that of the glacier sur-
face on each side ; it occupied nearly the whole breadth of the valley and was round in form. Apparently
it separated into two parts what I had hitherto regarded as one entire glacier.

May I. — At 2.50 a. m., barometer 26.15 [664.20'"""], reached what had long seemed the summit; but
before me lay a gradually rising ice-capped dome. However, progress was now comparatively easy, and
Sergeant Brainard appearing said the top was about a mile away ; he had already succeeded in reaching it.
At 3.45 a. m., barometer 25.25 [641.34"'"'], we reached it together, and stopped thirty-five minutes to take
bearings, &c. We had reached a great height, but still there were other of these peculiar dome-sh.aped
heights as high or a little higher within a few miles, one to the east and another to the north, which cut off
the view partly; the sky also was somewhat cloudy. To the south, and extending from what seemed our
feet to a distance of 15 or 20 miles or more, occupying perhaps 15 or 20 degrees on either side of the
meridian, was a maze of cone-shaped mountains with many deep canons between filled with glaciers.

[*(Jmission in original. — A. W. G.]

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282

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

The whole triangular rrea thus observed was of a uniform white color, hardly broken by a sinf^le pro-
truding rock. The unbroken snow and ice so merged mountains and valleys together that 't was difficult lo
distinguish anything, more especially as our elevation was by no means exceptional. The snow covered the
face of the country in every direction, but appearances seemed to indicate more of it and of ice to the south
of an east and west line than to the north. The Ella Bay Valley seemed turned from its original course by
a noticeable mountain some 2o miles distant, which from its shape I called Pyramid Mountain. There
the valley and glacier may extend south, but the view was cut off by other elevations. A deep depression
just south of us extended in the same general direction as the valley. Near its western extremity was a
large lake or glacier. The Garfield Mountains and several peaks were conspicuous.

Took the following compass bearings (magnetic):

Degrees.

Pyramid Mountain (15 or 20 miles distant) . ... . ....... 156

Mount A (a little to the right, about same distance).' 180

Mount C (lofty and snow-clad peak, perhaps 70 miles off) 166

Mount I) (estimated at 20 miles) loi

Mount E ^large " hog-back " mountain, ;.ear glacier or bke) 140

Mount F (twin peaks, probably 50 miles). 142

Garlield Mountains (west end) 259

("larlield Mountains (their extension In the east tarthcr than this cut off) 288

"Hills" (a ran(;e of hills on near side of Garfield Mountains) . 234

Point west of camp ■ .. 250

Cliffs norlheas'. side of Simmonds Bay . , 318

The elevation we were on, which was a " hog-back," the barometer made 5,050 feet [1,539"'] above sea-
level and ne:;rl) that above tent. On the way up I heard a very loud crash, and looking back thought I
saw the place where a. large section of the glacier face had fallen in.

Returned to cani]) by same route, following a steep icy ravine .along its side. Observed the incessant
fall of rocks and stone to lower levels. At 8.45 a. in. reached the tent, and after supper and making obser-
vations turned in at 12.40 p. m. Christiansen shot two ptarmigan during our absence.

At 8.45 a. m., '..arometer 29.85 [758.18"""]. At 12 noon, temperature -}- 3.5" [ — 15.8° C] ; barometer,
29.85 [758.18"""]. At 5.50 p. m., brea!cfast.

Afiiv 2. — I sent Sergeant Hrainard to intert,c>ction ot glacier face and valley on north side. He advanced
one and a half hours, and found route along flank of glacier (piite pr.acticable for soine distance, but no way of
flanking the glacier or attaining the surface. Compass bearing north side of BuUey's Lump, 333°.

Approximate height of face per angle and distance paced off, 160 feet [49°'].

ca_

StctioH 0/ fact of glaciir.
• a. Rilgc n( top, oTerhan|;lnf; in places, as it appeared </. Apparent snow-bank, but probably moraine covered
from below. with snow.

t. Pure ice of n beautiful Krcen color. t. Level of valley, scattered bowlders and lumps of let.

c. Ice, white and chocolate color, full of small stones and
streaks of mud or earth.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDTTTON.

283

Remained in camp all day, occupied with observations, &c. A 1 1 2.30 a. m., temperature + 1° f — 1 7.2° C] ;
barometer, 29.60 [7 5 1. 83 """J; sky overcast. At 8.40 a.m., temperature +11° [—11.7° C] ; barometer, 29.58
[75'-32"""]. At 12 noon, temperature +65° [—14.2° C.]; barometer, 29.57 [751.06'""']; at 2.20 p. m., tem-
perature + 1° [— «7'2° C.]; barometer, 29.04 [752.84"""].

Sixth march, Glacier back to Ella Bay.

At 8 p. m., temperr.ture zero [ — 17.8° C.]. At 8.20 p. m. broke camp and started. There appeared
nothing to do but try the valley of Beatrix Bay or Simmonds Bay. The valley between the glacier and
lake is generally very level and covered with small stones ; it was once probably covered by the glacier.
Several ravines on the left were examined c/i route, to find if they afforded a practicable route for sledge or
pack, but they seemed very unf;ivorable. Fox and hare tracks seen.

May 3. — At 12.35 '^* '"• ^^"^"^ '"'° camp near old camp. One of the dogs ate up a piece (several feet) of
Christiansen's whip. At 3,30 a. m., turned in. At 3.30 a. m., temperature —1 1° [ — 23.9° C.|; barometer,

3°-°S [7'^3-26"""J'

Time, 4 hours, 15 minutes : delays, 50 minutes; distance, 10 miles.

Seventh march, Ella Bay to Beatrix Bay.

At 5.30 p. m., breakfast. Weather bright and clear e>.cept to the west, where fog and clouds still remain.
Took some angles for height of immense cliff on south side bay; height, 4,097 feet [1,2 1.9'" |. At (■> ji. m.,
temperature —4" [—20.0° C.]; barometer, 30.17 [766.30"""]; sky sliglitly overcast. Broke camp and st.nrted.
Stopped at Record Point and left a notice in the F^nglish cairn. Several hare tracks here.

May 4. — Found the snow in Beatrix Bay nuicli harder. Near head of bay is a floe of [)aleorrystic ice.
Immensely high clilTs on all sides, their summits covered with snow and ice; a miniature glacier in one
place. At 1.25 a. m. reached head of bay and camped. Christiansen saw a ptarmigan at Record Point flying
overhead. At 5 a. m. turned in. Marches short and taken leisurely, as when we abandon th-; sledge, whether
for the small sledge or packs, there will be more rations than we can take along.

At 1.25 a. m., temperature —8° [ — 22.2° C.]; at 2.25 a. ni., barometer 30.09 [764.27"""]; at 4.40 a. m,,
temperature —13.0° [ — 25.0° C.|. Sun shining brightly, calm. Latitude, 81' 09' 50", longitude, 70° 31' \V.
(observed).

Time, 5 hours, 25 minutes. Delays, 40 minutes. Distance, 13 miles.

At Beatrix Bay.

At 5 p. m., barometer 30.22 [767.57""]; clear .md bright. At 5.30 p. m., breakfast. At 6 p.m..

temperature —2° [— i8.9°C.]; at 6.45 ]>. m., barometer 30.22 [767.57 ]. At O.jj I started with Sergeant

Brainard to reconnoiter the valley, leaving sledge, &c. We walked ui) about four miles to a projecting
"shoulder," a long ridge extending nearly across the valley, and sloping from nearly the top of the clifls to
a level witii the sttt!am-bed. These shoulders are very common in this country; this was the third from
cami) on the north side. The valley Is .nbout one and a half or two miles wide and walletl in on each
side by precipitous, gigantic cliffs; it should ratl'.er be called a canon. Raised " beaches" were very notice-
able, and one at the mouth of a gorge to tlie south was very wide. Between the " shoulders" and beaches
tlie stream-bed followed its winding way. These beaches are covered with small stones very evenly laid,
the slioulders with large angular rocks. Bordering the stream-bed in one place were several miniature
"mesas" composed of fine dirt about the height of the beach at its lower edge, or 20 to 30 feet [6 to 9"'|.
Could only identify Mount Neville .as the elevated "hog-back" back of the cliffs about two miles up the
valley. Elevation of stream-bed four miles from bay 300 feet [91'"]. Saw fox.ermine, and ptarmigan tracks,
but no hare tracks; saw one ptarmigan. From the shoulder reached, the valley was seen to run in a north-
west direction to a don.e-shaped elevation, where it api)arently eiuled, nine or ten miles from the bay. This
I afterwards called Mount Easy, Reached hut on return, after taking several com|)ass sights, at midnight.
Am still feeling ([uite stiff and sore frc n the effects of Mount Oilticult. Christiansen went hunting but without
success,

Mav 5. — Eighth march (to Mount Easy).

At 6 p. m., breakfast. At 8 p. m. broke camp and started up the valley. Foimd ice under the snow
in the stream-bed ami made good progress. Just beyond farthest reached yesterday we traveled over a lake

lilt

! !■-

! J I

Ul i

ii:

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284

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

about a mile long. At 10.30 p.m., when about two miles from Mount Easy, the valley suddenly narrowed to
about one-quarter of a mile, and for 400 yards [366'"] was covered with large rocks. It was necessary to
•'double up,",and we were an hour getting everything to the farther side. Beyond the traveling was good,
but we shortly came to the end, and after working up a steep ravine full ot rocks for some distance, went into
camp at 1 1.55 p. m., it being hardly pr.icticable to proceed farther. Elevr tion of camp 700 feet [213'"].

At 3.30 a.m., temperature —11.5° [ — 24.2° C.]; barometer, 30.22 [76/. 57"""]. At 6.40 a. m., tempera-
ture — 5.5° [ — 208° C.]; barometer, 30.27 [768.84"""]. At 11.35 a.m., temperature o°[— 17.8° C.]; barome-
ter, 30.22 [767.57"""!.

At 7 p. m., temperature —2° [ — 18.90 C.J; barometer, 30.22 [767.57"""]; clear with light wind down
thevalley. At 11 p. ni., temperature —2.5° [—19.2° C.]. Weather clear, but windy. At 12 midnight, tem-
perature — 12° [ — 24.4° C.]. Latitude, 81° 16' 59", longitude, 70° 46" VV. (observed).

Time, 3 hours, 55 minutes. Delays, 55 minutes. Distance, 9 miles.

May 6. — Ascent of Mount Easy.

At I a. m., temperature -1-2.5° [— i6.4°C.]; barometer, 29.41 [747.00'"""]. At 3 a.m., temperature -|-i°
[— 1 7.2° C.J ; barometer, 29.48 [748.78'""]. With Sergeant Urainard I left at 3 a. m. We ascended a '•ocky
height on west side of the ravine and saw before us to the north what seemed a water-shed or divide, a level
plain much above the elevation of the tent, bounded on the east and west by high mountains and to the
north by a line of cliffs, the top of which only could be seen, evidently indicating a wide valley or lake.
Traveling in this direction we soon came to a lake occupying the farther side of the plain. Crossing this
obliquely to the left we reached a long, gently sloping ridge, which promised an easy ascent to the mountain.
The barometer (4.15 a. m., 29.00 1736.59"""]) made the elevation of the lake above sea-level about 1,100
feet [33S"'J. I estimated the lake as aljout four miles long and one and a half or two miles wide; in places
wliere the ice was exposed near shore it was so transparent that the stones could be seen at the bottom
through tlie ice, 7 or 8 feet [about 2'"J in thickness. The surface of the ridge or shoulder by which we
ascended the mountain comprised many nv/irs moiitouiies or rocks of that appearance. Summit reached at

6.05 a. m. Barometer, 27.25 [692.14 J. Elevation per barometer, 2,900 feet [884"']. Compass bearings

(magnetic) as follows:

Degrees.

Fii-st shoulder above Beatrix Bay . 63^

Very lii^h dome shapeil mountain, 20 miles or more di.stant, and doubtless south of fiord 62^

" Hoj; back," al)()ut 10 miles distant 118

Distant dome-shaped mountain, just above horii^on, about 40 miles away 206

South extreme chain of mountains 211

Between this and former a very distant peak; two dark-looking cliffs, probably 40 miles 224

From this point to 304° extends a continuous mountain chain, lost at either extreme by swell of horizon.
In this chain at 262° appears what is doubtless a large glacier, and beyond glacier, seen through a depression
and much further away, what I take for the United States Range. In same chain at 247° are two or three
conspicuous jjeaks. Towards Klla Bay the country had a very glacial appearance — a glacier wall seen in
that direction. At 8 a. m., barometer 27.22 [691.38'""']. Returned to tent through a ravine on south side
after two hours spent on the summit. Reached tent at 9.50 a. m. ; temi)erature, -f 10° [—1 2.2° C.]; barom-
eter, 29.55 [750.56' ]. Sui)perat 11.15 a. m. ; turned in at 12 noon; temperature, -f- 12° [—11.1° C.]. Sky

clear; north wind.

PRELIMINARY JOURNEY TO MUSK-OX VALlEV.

The cliffs seen to the not' 1 from the lake coula be seen from the mountain to mark a long valley or
lake exten<iing ajiparently east and west. This and tlie ravine soutli of the mountain each offered a way of
getting west by using the small slcilge. I decided to make a preliminary journey to the former before,
adojjting either route. At 10.45 !'• '"•' breakfast; 11. 15 p. m., temperature -|-6° [ — 14.4° C] ; barometer,
29.60 [751.83 ].

May 7. — At 1 2.10 a. m., putting the dogs to the litUe sledge, with no load at all, we started from camp.
Reached the "plain" after about a mile tiirough the rocky ravine above camp, and soon came to the lake
and took a course north. The lake appeared to drain south. After we had crossed it we entered a water-
course flowing from it directly to the valley. Traveled very rapidly, and in one hour from camp reached

,U-.-tl ..WJM

THE LADY FRANKLIX BAY EXPEDITION.

285

within one-half mile of the valley. Another hour occupied in getting down. It was necessary to take the
dogs out and partly carry, partly pull the sledge through and over the great bowlders filling the gorge, Avhich
was here very precipitous. The course of the valley to the left was (approximately) S. 66° W. ; to the right
N. 35° E. (true), this for a distance of 5 to 10 miles in either direction. The valley appeared about 3 miles
or more wide ; cliffs and precipitous mountains walled it in.

Turned to the right and proceeded for two hours what proved to be down the valley. In this time,
which was equal to about 7 miles, its elevation fell about 120 feet [36"'). The water evidently covers a wide
surface; in some places very shallow, but in others we traveled over small lakes and ice 7 feet [2'"] or more
thick, very transparent. Musk-ox droppings (old) were observed continually. A snow-bird was seen, several
hares, and a great many fox tracks, &c. At the farthest reached, the valley obli(iues to the right a few
miles, then to the left around a high cliff, and is lost to sight. Here four musk-oxen were seen. One,
which proved to be a female containing a well-developed calf, was shot, and the others driven off. The
meat put on the sledge, and, after the dogs had stuffed themselves, we turned back.

Took several compass bearings in the valley. Got out of the valley by a ravine about 2 miles to the
west of the one by which we had entered it. The ascent was much longer, but the rocks and stones were
comparatively few. However, very deep snow was met in a surface drain on top. The meat was left in
cache in the valley. An immensely high 'hog-back" lies just east of the lake; this we skirted around in
returning. The tent was reached at 10.30 a. m. — four hours returning. At 3.30 p. m., turned in, after
making all arrangements for forward trip with little sledge.

At 2.3s a. m., barometer 30.10 [764.53"""]; 4.30 a. m., barometer 30,22 [767.57"'"']; 11.30 a. m., temper-
ature + i5.5°[— 9,2°C.]; barometer, 29.83 I7S7.67"'"']; 3 p. m., temperature +11° [—11.7° C.]; barometer,
29-83 [757-67"""J-

Ninth march (small sledge, shelter tent, &c.). Mount Easy to Musk-Ox Vallev.

May 8. — .\t 12,15 ^- m., breakfast. The outfit consisted of small .sledge (weight 25 pounds), shelter
tent, sleeping-bags, snow-shoes, &c,, and knapsacks for proceeding without sledge, if necessary, 1 13 pounds
pemmican (dog-food), and 1 1 days' rations cut down to lowest limit, on which I contemplated advancing six
days; total weight on sledge, 330 pounds. The A tent was left standing by large sledge. The sledge-
runners had been so much worn the previous day, and the prospective rocks were so many, that I was afraid
of attempting more.

At 3 a. m. started from camp ; the dogs in excellent condition. Got up to the plain without very much
work. From the farther side of the lake I sent Christiansen to reach the valley by the detour of yesterday,
while Sergeant Brainard and I kept straight on by the outward route and reached valley at 5.30 a. m., but
after going up stream some distance, seeing nothing of the sledge, we returned. It was nearly two hours
more before the sledge came in sight and reached " Rocky Gully." Christiansen had shot a hare, and
also added to the load tiie shot-gun and the musk-ox meat left in cache. We all proceeded westward. We
traveled at times over very thick, clear ice, and at times over large areas of stones covered lightly
with snow; it was difficult to exactly follow the stream bed. Many t-rrace formations, "raised beaches,"
along route. The tributary water-courses to this stream are narrow ravines or gorges, some very pre-
cipitous. At 9 a. m. stopped to camp about six miles from " Rocky Gully." A mountain about ten miles up-
stream seems to close the valley in that direction. Abundant musk-ox droppings (old) seen; also the fresh
tracks of two or three animals. One quarter of meat cached here, with rations and the hare, two fed to
dogs, and the fourth, cut from bone, to be taken along. At 12.45 P- '"• turned in.

At 5.35 a, m., barometer 30.20 [767.07 "'"]; 7.25 a. m,, barometer 30.18 [766.56"'"'] ; 9.30 a. m., temper-
ature, +9° [- 12.8° C.]; barometer, 30.J0 [764.53"""]; ir.45 a. m., temperature 13.5 [—10.3° C.]; barometer,
30.10 [764.53], Weather very fine; sun bright and no wind. Latitude, 81-' 18' 25", lon^'^itude, 71° 01' W.
(observed).

Time, 5 hours, 55 minutes. Delays, 30 minutes. Distance, 12 miles.

Tenth march, up Musk-ox Valley.

May 9,— At 12.15 ^' "!•) the sledge being packed, .Sergeant Hrainard and I started from camp. Chris-
tiansen started to follow shortly afterwards, but as he did so, the dogs going on a gallop down the little

I'f;

286

THE LADY FRANKLIN 15AY EXPEDITION.

1 I

I I

terrace made such a short turn on its steep slope of hard snow that the sledge overturned and rolled over
and over till it reached the river-bed. The knapsacks seemed the only alternative now left, the upriglits
of one runner being broken short offin their mortises. It was patched up, however, and after half an hour's delay
we proceeded again, We followed the stream for upwards of two hours, moving very ftist for some time
over little lakes of smooth, clear ice, when we came to the mountain last r-'ferred to. A narrow, stony gap
between it and the lorth bank of the valley offered a route for some distance at least farther towards the
west, but what seem ;d the main valley turned off in a canon towards the sojtli. Spent over two hours in a
reconnaissance and concluded to take the gaj). The canon seemed to end at a large glacier and to drain
the ice-covered mountains towards its source perhaps eight miles or more away. I took numerous compass
bearings. After a delay for Christiansen who had got on the track of a hare, we proceeded. Great
numbers of fresh tracks of all kinds (except musk-ox) seen, and many oUl traces 'if the latter. A good
deal of grass, &c., in the lower part of the gai), but beyond this the bed was of large rocks, between which
one's foot would sometimes go up to the thigh. After an hour's travel Sergeant Hrainard, who was ahead of
the other, reported to me that the sledge-runner could hartlly be made to stand, flopping over continually;
so at 6.40 a. m. we camjied. The runner was fixed as well as could be. Saw a snow-bird near tlie canon.
Not much snow in the valley, comparatively. Turned in at i p. u .

At »2 30 a. m., temperature 4.5° [— 15.3° C.j; cold west 1. At i a. m , barometer 30.08 1764.02"""];

8.15 a. m., tem])erature +5° [ — 15.0° C.J; barometer, 26.62 [752.33"""]; 12 noon, temperature 12.5° [—10. 2"
C.]; barometer, 29.60 [751.83"""]. At 10.30 [). m., breakfast. At 1 1.15 p. m., temperature +7° [ — 13.9° C.];
barometer, 29.38 [746.24"""]. At 12 p. m., temperature +4.5° [ — 15.3° C.]. Clear and calm. Latitude,
8i° 15' 35", longitude, 71° 46' W. (observed).

Time, 6 hours, 30 minutes. Delays, 3 hours, 30 minutes. Distance, 8 miles.

Eleventh march, fro.m Gap to Glacier.

May 10. — At 12.20 a. m. broke camp and started. Left stream-bed, but followed its course on snowy
..lope on south side. After traveling about 2^4 miles stopped and made cache of two days' food; also left
the ax and snow-shoes. Sledge-runner apparently still very weak though mended at camp. Left Sergeant
Brainard to continue with sledge while 1 ascended the heights to the left-oblique. Gained a con.sideiable
elevation and had cpiite an extensive view. Took compass bearings. Mount Easy and the great " hogbacks "
in that direction recognized and the farthest reached down the river. Towards the southeast and south the
land was very high and appeared ice-capped. The "south branch" glacier was quite distinct. To the
southwest the horizon presented a series of ice-capped domes with the ice wall of a glacier running about
east and west and marking the northern limit of immense areas of ice. Farther to the right extended from
my present position towards the WSW., for perhaps twenty miles, a long, narrow plain or val'ey, bounded on
each side by low ranges of hills. It seemed to be an extension, beyond the gap, of Musk-ox Valley. Its end
was closed in apparently by a mountain; above and beyond this mountain was an elevated "swell" of the
horizon, in a de|)ression of which I could see what I took for a snow bank. To the right of this the sector
of the circle seemed to embrace a low country, comparatively, covered with snow but not ice. Joined sledge
at 1.50 a. m. at west end of gap. At 1.50 a. m., barometer 29.18 [741.16"""]. Sergeant Hrainard had
encountered rocks and stones and then met a small lake. The valley before us was evidently the continua-
tion of this stream. The "snow bank" made the objective point and we proceeded. Valley about two
miles wide; large areas of it very level and showing a surface of small stones through the snow. The dogs
traveled at a rapid trot, very satisfactory but very tiresome. Old musk-ox droppings and traces of hares and
foxes seen. Farther west we traveled on a lake several miles long. "Raised beaches" observed, but not
particularly prominent. At 5 a. m. came to a break in the low hills on left flank and saw a long glacier wall
evidently connected with wall previously seen; it seemed to extend parallel with the valley and just south of
the " hills." The end of the valley was a few miles to the front. Turned to the left, following the streambeil
and, getting well in towards the glacier wall, again turned to the right.

At 7.15 a.m. camped a few yards from wall ami about on a line with last camp and "snow hank."
Fresh tracks of five musk-oxen seen just before camping; tracks came from the north anil the animals
])rol)al)ly on their way east. Approximate height of glacier wall here, per angle and distance paced, 143
feet [44'"]. At I p. m. turned in.

THE LADY FRA.XKLIN BAY EXPKDITION.

287

At 2.50 a.m., barometer 29.12 [yjQ.ej"""!; 3.35 a. m., 29.10 [739. i3'""']; 8.10 a. m., temperature 17.5"
1-8.10 c.|; barometer, 29.73 [7S5.i3"'"'J- Latitude, 81° 08' t^', longitude, 73''4i' W. (observed). At 12.30
p. m., temperature +17.5" [—8.1° C.]; barometer, 28.73 [729-73'""'J- Very strong west wind blowing for
some liours.

Time, 6 hours, 55 minutes; delays, 45 minutes; distance, 21 miles.

Twelfth march, over "divide" of Grinnei.l Land.

May II. — Breakfast about i a. m. Two of the dogs got at the pemniican under the sledge during our
sleep and ate about a dozen pounds of it. Cached one day's dog-food here. At i.35 a. m. broke camp and
started, following along the foot of glacier wall. Wall varies little in height. The route gradually ascended.
About three miles from camp crossed a small lake; stream running into it from north. Musk-ox tracks
observed, apparently from the north and going east. At four miles from camp we were opposite " snow bank "
of yesterday — simply the wall with snow bank at its foot. At the lake the wall is lost in one place, the glacier
sloping down to the ice of the lake; some apparently submerged sections of the former rise above the surface
like the ice off an " ice-foot." The glacier could here have been ascended, apparently. There are also one or
t*o places a few miles farther on where the wall exhibits this peculiarity — short spaces of a few yards. From
position at 4 a. m. (about a mile north of "snow bank"), on the side of an elevated " hog-back," took the
following bearings:

Degrees.

Clift' at iiUerseclion of gap with Musk-ox Valley j... 356

Elevated "hog-back" to lelt of Mount Easy _ i

Mount Ea-sy... .- ---- 359

High snow or ice-cappeddome, somewhat farther ofl' 2

Another to its right 3

Two long "swells," very high ; still farther to the right:

First 22

Second 24^

(These are at least 50 miles distant.)

Right extreme of clilTs 177

Left extreme 163

Immensely high, white, dome-shaped mounfoin top, just seen above horizon, perhaps 75 miles distant. 148^

From this position the ice-cap to the south seemed to extend to the east and west indefinitely ; a few
miles to the south it formed the horizon, rising to a greater elevation than ourselves. To the west fifteen or
twenty miles distant was a line of cliffs running apparently N\V. and SE., and seeming to indicate a valley
or lake. To the north could be seen only a few hundred yards. Walking in this direction a couple of
miles, the barometer fell to 27.36 [694.93'"'"]. A large lake made its appearance to the northwest, somewhat
of a round form, probably ten miles across. Two or three canon- like inlets or outlets connecte'.l with it on
the north and west; also one to the south connec'ing it with the glacier. The view to the .soiuh simply put
the ice-bound horizon farther away. All to the north of the glacier seemed simply gromv! covered with a
light depth of snow. That on which we walked was very hard, and ice in small jKitches showed itself, but
stones were all around. The surface was very smooth. Christiansen, with the sledge, followed the general
direction of the glacier, and having got to the west of Sergeant Brainard and myself, waited till we came up.
At 6 a. m., about six miles from camp, observed a mountain, triangular shaped, bearing 255°; it was east of
the large lake a short distance ; thought it possibly Mount Arthur. An hour later, after traveling rapidly
down hill, we found ourselves on a small lake by glacier wail. This lake is connected with large lake by a
small stream. Fresh musk-ox droppings and tracks seen here and, also, some distance back.

Two or three miles farther on we reached another small lake with large cake's ind blocks of ice on its
surface here and th'jre, doubtless detachments from the glacier wall. Here the wall inclined towards the
south for some n-iles. Reaching the end of the lake we turned to Uje rightoblinue in order to gain a
particular cliff seen through a depression from the " divide." The lake-glacici ,,tream forms the middle of
a wide valley and we now commenced the ascent of its western side, following a shallow but steep ravine
full of deep, sofl snow. At its source, in the depression referred to, was another lake forming a basin in a
seeming mountain range. At the west end of this lake we found a ravine leading directly towards " the
clip, ' and apparently draining it in that direction. Followed this some time, till it became a gorge and a

V\)

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111

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288

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION,

very steep snow bank, 60 feet [18'"] down by measurement, stopped farther advance. Made some exami-
nation of the locality, and then retracing steps a few yards, camped at 9.50 a. ni. A snow-binl seen on the
" divide." At 3.45 p. m. turned in. More or less deep snow on all the lakes crossed, &c., but generally the
traveling during the march very good.

At 12.30 a. ni , t.-mpcratiire 15.5° [—9.2° C.J; barometer, 28.71 [729.22' ]. At 7.15 a.m., barometer

28.52 [724.39"""] ; 8.10 a. m., 28.35 [720.08"""]. Latitude, 81° 05' 10" N., longitude, 74° 41' W. (observed].
At II a. m, temperature 16.5° [ — 8.6 C.| barometer, 28.47 [723.12"""]. Weather fine. At 12.30 p. m., tem-
perature, 17.0° [ — 8.3° C.]; barometer, 28.43 [722.11 ]. At 3.15 p. m., temperature 18.5° [—7.5° C] ; ba-
rometer 28.43 [722.11"""].

Time, 7 hours, 15 minutes; delays, i hour, 45 minutes; distance, 13 miles.

Thirteenth march, from Snow Bank to near Fiord.

May 12. — At i a. m., breakfast. At 2.15 a. m., temperature -f 21° [—6.1° C.|; barometer, 28,375
[720.7 1"""(. Calm, cloudy. At 2.45 a. m. started from camp. The sledge was readily lowered down the
bank (with load) by means of the long seal thong, and the dogs pushed over after it. Helow this the
ravine was quite steep and full of ice and hard snow, so that for half a mile one of us guided the sledge
while the other two held it back by means of the long line. It finally got away with the guide and went
several hundred yards by itself. At 4 a. m., barometer 29.37 [74S.98"""]. We got down a thousand feet
[305"' I '" I'^ss than an hour, and at 4 a. m. were in a narrow valley walled in by immense high and
precipitous cliflfs. The route seemed to be the only possible one by which the descent could have been
accomplished. Two other ravines entered this valley or canon here, but they contained precipices of snow
extremely high. The valley came from the north, but its continuation in that direction could be seen only
a few miles; cliffs down stream, indicating its mouth, lay in a southwest direction. Its gradient was quite
small. At 4.40 a. m., temperature 25.5° [—3.6° C.j ; barometer, 29.56 [750.81"""].

After some delay we started down-stream at a rapid pace, the dogs with difficulty being prevented from
going on a gallon all the time. The view was continually shut out by great "shoulders" projecting from
the heights on either hand. At 6 a. m., temperature 17.5° [—8.1° C] ; barometer, 30.04 [763.00"""]. After
proceeding a half dozen miles we came to a glacier, meeting the valley at an acute angle. It filled (juite a
wide canon or valley coming from the east ; towards its source it had a great elevation. We passed it on
a terrace between its flank and the cliffs to the right. In a few miles farther, at 6.50 a. m., reached the end
of a glacier and the shore of a large lake, going down a steep gully before getting ofif the terrace. The
glacier surface describes an arc where it abuts on the lake, and is broken by great numbers of transverse
crevasses ; its Hank on the valley forms a wall. No stones or moraines observed on its surface. At the
farther end of the lake could be seen another glacier coming in from the left, and over and beyond it a turn
in the lake or valley to the right oblique. After a short delay for rest, bearings, &c., we started on the lake.
Found the traveling very fatiguing on account of a snow crust just hard enough >io( to bear; the dogs how-
ever traveled very rapidly.

At 11.15 •^- "1- reached end of lake and went into camp. The lake ranges from two to five miles in
width, and is twelve or fourteen miles long. On each side are high, stee[) cliffs broken in places by ravines.
In two or three of the ravines on south side and some miles back glaciers were perceived. Country generally
to the south ice-capped and much resembling that seen from "divide." All these glaciers probably offshoots
of the " Chinese wall glacier." A few musk-ox droppings, fox, hare, and lemming tracks seen in the valley,
]yd below a marked scarcity. Vegetation seemed very sparse. This valley may be a mile wide, though
the stream-bed is but a few yards and is the only part that has not a steep lateral slope, excepting a few
" raised beaches," &c. The glacier by camp has the same general appearance, and occupies same relative
position with the valley as the ])revious one. Little seen of it from tent on account of a narrow ridge, a few
hundred feet in height, lioubtless a moraine. At 5 p. m. turned in. Latitude, 80° 56' 27", longitude, 76°
13' W. (observed).

At 7.45 a. m. on lake; temperature 26° |— 3.3''C.]; barometer, 30.10 [764.53"""], cloudy At 12.20

]). m., temperature 17.5° [—8.1° C] ; barometer, 30.18 [766.56 ]. At 4.40 p. m., temperature 14.5

[—9.7° C.]; barometer, 30.18 [766.56"""].

Time, 8 hours, 30 minutes; delays, i hour, 45 minutes; distance, 12 miles.

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THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY KXPEDITIOX.

289

[ade some exanii-
-l^iril seen on the
but generally the

a. ni., barometer
i' W. (observedj.
12.30 p. m., tem-
[-7.5° C.J; ba-

irometer, 28.375
wereil down the
Helow this the
lided the sledge
guide and went
I thousand feet
lense high anrl
:ouid have been
cipices of snow
id be seen only
client was quite

prevented from
projecting from
;-oo'""'J. After
ft filled {piite a
'e passed it on
ached the end
terrace. The
of transverse
rface. At the
syond it a turn
1 on the lake,
the dogs how-
five miles in
es by ravines,
iitry generally
bly offshoots
in the valley,
wide, though
cpting a kw
anie relative
ridge, a few
igitude, 76°

At 12.20
;rature 14.5

Fourteenth march, from wkst end ok Lake down Fu<kI) to Fariheht.

May 13. — At 6.50 a. m. broke camp and started, proceeding along between the ridge or moraine referred
to and a wide, gentle slope lying along the cliffs to the right ; this little gap was from 100 to 400 yards [91 to
366'"] wide and presented a surface almost level. After traveling nearly an hour quite rapidly we came to
the farther end of the moraine and beyond it, having the same relative position to the glacier, a line of what
seemed " floebergs." There was no /(7r<y>//7Vf difference in any respect ; they were detachments Irom the
glacier. Little or nothing could be observed of the latter itself from here. A wide break in the cliffs
beyond it to the left oblique was noticed, however, and I sent Sergeant Jkainard to a small elevation on the
right to observe it. He reported another glacier and finite a large one, or rather two. They formed one
at the cliffs. He could s<;e back about eight miles ; width at cliffs about three miles.

After taking bearings and drawing the outlines of some of the bergs we i)roceeded. Soon after (5 a. m.)
we came to an immense berg, and at its base open water had flooded the ice, coming up through a crack.
Here I susi)ected for the first time our pro.ximity to the sea. The water was salt ; tidal action evident. It
seemed about high tide [a litde after]. Just beyond this (5.15 a. m.) reached the head of a wide fiord (Greely
FiordJ and the end of the glacier. A tide crack stopped us a few minutes, but we Hanked it by going along
shore. The tracks of a ucav were here seen. The cliffs seen from the lake across the front of our course
formed the south shore of the fiord; they apparently terminated in a cape about 20 miles distant; the shore-
line evidently here made a bend. Took a course for this cape. The north shore trended off to the right
oblique and terminated in a distant promontory. Just beyond was a bay or fiord, and there was seen the
north shore trending off towards the west and terminating at a small angle to the right of the 20-mile cape,
apparently — but the weather was now very bad and nothing could be seen distinctly.

The ice was cc. .-ed with deep snow with a light crust; traveling extremely fatiguing, the snow-shoes
having been left behind, but the dogs made excellent time notwithstanding. The su'; . remarkably level.
None of the long swells of the paleocrystic ice, so common off the coast of Grc .Wand and the straits,
observed. About eight miles from the lake we passed through some low, oval-shaped mounds of ice, a foot or
two [.3 or .6'"] high, not exactly resembling anything seen before. About two miles farther on crossed tracks
of a bear going up fiord; a fox had evidently followed in his wake.

It was now so foggy and snowing so much that all land was at times shiit out almost completely
Many fox tracks seen and crossed. Some time before this a very high, snow-cap])e(l dome observed above
and beyond the twin glacier referred to. We passed the cape towards which we had been traveling and
shore-line trending more to the left. The snow and fog and a constant succession of points or capes pre-
vented tracing it any distance. The south shore as well as tiie north was seen to be formed everywhere of
long lines of steep, high cliffs. The ice along this shore was much broken by cracks; the ice-foot hardly
improved the traveling. Having passed several points — only to find, in each case, another a few miles
ahead. At 12.05 ^^^ ^^^^ 'be shore and proceeding out in the fiord a quarter of an hour went into camp;
all much fatigued and suffering more or less from snow-blindness. Singular as it may seem, snow and
fog have a worse effect in this respect than a clear sky. Estimated the width of 'he fiord at tlr's point
about 10 miles. Got a view of Land's Knd [Cape BrainardJ on north side of fiord about forty miles off.
At 6 p. m. turned in to sleep as long as we could, or until the storm abated.

At 2.15 a. m., breakfast. At 3.20 a. m., temperature 18.5° [ — 7.5° C.J; larometer, 30.02 [762.49 J.

Snowing lightly; light northwest wind; sky hidden. At 6.30 a. m,, temperature 25° [—3.9° C.|; barometer,
29.40 [746.75"""|. Sky hidden, snowing and very foggy. At 1^.45 p. m., temperature,29° | — 1.7° C.]; at 2
p. m., barometer, 29.87 [758.68"""] ; at 6 p. m., barometer .?9.83 [7S7.67"""J. Magnetic variation from fourteen
observations, 116° 35' ± 1° 3'. Latituile, 80° 48' 39", longitude, 78° 26' W. (observed).

Time, 8 hours, 40 minutes. Distance, 2C miles.

At FAKiHEST (Camp on ice of Greely Fiord).

Afav 14.— At 8 a. m., temperature 25° [-3.9°C.]; barometer, 29.97 [761.22"""]; snowing and blowing,

wind west. A few miles of the south shore up and down is all that can be seen. At 9 a. m., breakfast, after

nineteen hours fast. Tea only warm on account of the reduced allowance of alcohol. By cutting every-

thmg down to the lowest limit. Sergeant Brainard estimates that four more meals can be had before starting

H. Mis. 393 19

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290

THE LAUY FliANKLlN BAY EXP;:DIT10]S.

back. On account of depth of snow on the fiord, the bad weather, obseivations, iVc, decided reliictanily
not to attempt advancing farther, especially since we could not liope to reach the mouth of the fiord. The
day spent in taking observations (the sun being faintly visible), comjjass bearings, &C. The general direc-
tion of the fiord is WSW. ; it grows wider on approaching the sea. That we saw tl .a we were long
before this quite sure, no land being visible to the WSW., even after many sights tin .^h the telesco[)e.
'I'he fiord ended to the east in two bays [Antoinette and Adola| or arms; on the nort'i ide many breaks,
marking water-courses, and two or more indicating branch fords. The country beyonf' to the north v try
much broken and very elevateil. The surface of the fiord presented one unbroken e:.i. »nse of i':ep snow.
At 7.15 p. m., supper. At 10.3 turned in.

At 10 a. m., temperature 30° f— I.I C.J; barometer, 29.94 [760.46"""]; wind light '.om west. At 10.41;
a. m., tcmi)erature ;^2° [0.0° C.]; barometer, 29.97 [761.2:!"""]. A; li 301; m., tcm])eraturt 34" [ l-i.i" C.j;
barrrjieter 30.0 [7C .99"""]. At 1.45 p. m., teniper.iture 34° [-fi.i° C.]; barometer 30.02 [762.49"'"']. At
3.2'- ! . m.. ' I .rat' e 37° [4 -'•8° C.]; uarometer, 30.00 [761.99'""']. At 4.20 p. m., temperature 3^5°
[+!..■> C. j hicomttcr 30.02 [762,49"""]; snowing all day. At 6 p. m., temperature 27.0" [ — 2.8° C.];
biiroi."frV^!' 3.i;'. ,'762.49"""]; light east wind clouds breaking up.

Ai(i-j i ;, — 'Thu rr. rning v as promising, and at 7.35 a. m. I left camp with Sergeant Brainard to ascend
the cliffs to the so." We got up by means of the ravine before referred to. Before long, however, a
storm began to form in the east, and soon the driving snow shut out everything and prevented a view of the
mouth of a fiord. Previously, howev >r^ a lofty range of snow-clad mountains was observed on the north side
of the fiord, extending generally parallel witli it, and estimated at about fifty miles distant. In these mount-
ains a large glacier was seen. To the south, about twenty-five miles off", is another large glacier, probably an
offshoot of the " Chinese wall glacier." The whole face of the country in that direction seemed ice-capped.
We continued along the edge of the cliiTs for about four miles. Here the barometer gave an elevation of
2,250 feet [686'"]. To the west the cliffs appeared to trend back much more towards the south, the fiord
becoming wider. Several deep valleys run in a gener.1l north or northwest direction to the fiord. Beyond
all these was to be seen obscurely what looked like a line of cliffs, having a northwest direction, and marking
a branch fiord, probably much nearer than " Land's End " [Cape Brainard], the west e.xtreme of north
shore.

After half an hour's delay started back. Jin route Sergeant Brainard discovered fossil remains on the
mountain top and soon we had quite a collection. One was a shell and the others what we took for petri-
fied wood, fish, &c. A few specimens of gra.sses, &c., were also collected. A ptarmigan was seen. Reached
tent again at 5.35 p. m. Sergeant Brainard stoj)ped b.ick to build a cairn and deposit record at the mouth
of the mvine. Spent the afternoon in observations, &c. At 8.45 p. m. we all started out on the fiord with
the dog-team and traveled for an hour towards the opposite shore. After getting out some distance another
point b'gan to make its appearance beyond the one hitherto farthest seen on the south side ; this latter I
judged 1 en or fifteen miles distant, and the former twenty-five or thirty. Between the two seemed a fiord, the
same disclosed from Fossil Mount (2,140 feet [652"' high]), doubtless, and a few degrees in azimuth farther
to the right the land seemed to end in a bold promontory. The atmosphere became much clearer before
turning back, and Sergeant Brainard and I examined the mouth of the fiord carefully with the telescope,
which, after somt time, brought out very faintly a cape [Cape I-ockwood, Arthur Land] still farther to the
west, projecting a degree or two beyond the e.ist and estimated at sixty miles distant. Between this and
" Land's End " [Cape Brainard] was quite distinct. At 1 1 p. m. turned in.

At 5.15 a. m., temper.Tture, 14° [ — 10.0° C.]; at 5.45 a. m., barometer, 29.98 [761.48'"'"]; west wind.
At 7.10 a. m. temperature 17° [—8.3° C.]; barometer, 29.93 [760.21'"'"]. At 10.35 »• m, barometer 27.42
[696.46™"']. At 1.35 p. m., temperature 20° [ — 6.7° C.J ; barometer, 29.73 [755.13'""']. At 5.20 p. m., tem-
perature 25'5° [—3.6° C.J ; barometer, 29.80 [756.9r""'J. At 6 p. m., temperature 20° [—6,7° C] ; barometer,
29.77 [756.14"""]. At 10.05 p. m., temperature 19° [— 7.2°C.]; barometer, 29.75 [755.64'""'].

Fifteenth march (on return), Farthe.st to Lake.

Afay 16. — At 7 a. m., breakfast, and at 8.15 a. m. we started. The snow soft and very deep and trav-
eling very bad. In two and a quarter hours reached " 20-mile Cape." Some time beyond two seals were
seen on the ice, the harbor se.il " Natsik." Made an unsuccessful attempt to get them. Reached head of
the fiord [Greely FiordJ at 5.15 p. m., and the old camp at end of lake at 6.50. The little sledge went fre-

TUB LADY I'KANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

291

:ci(leii reluctantly
^f the fiord. The
rhc general direc-
■ja we were long
f^h the telescope,
ide many breaks,
to the north Vtry
ise of ('.'ep snow.

1 west. At I0.4S

34"! -I.i't:.,;

I [762.49' |. At

sniperatiire 33*5°
7.0" [-2.8° C.];

•ainard to ascend
long, however, a
ted a view of the
on the north side
In these niount-
cier, probably an
;med ice-capped.
e an elevation of
; south, the fiord
; fiord. Beyond
on, and marking
xtreme of north

1 remains on the
took for petri-

Iseen. Reached
at the mouth
the fiord with

listance another
this latter I

lied a fiord, the

azimuth farther

clearer before

the telescope,

farther to the

ween this and

J, west wind,
irometer 27,42
20 p. m., tem-
.] ; barometer,

eep and trav-
wo seals were
ched head of
dge went fre-

quently .ibovc the slats. Journey extremely fatiguing. The dojrs begin to show the effects of short rations.
There >vas now nothing to give them. Of our own rations ' ree meals of sausa;3C were made to last six,
which with seven ounces of hard bi ;ad (short weight), was t ely insufficient. On leaving the large sleilge
thrce-iiuarters pound of bacon was brought along as a 'av . ration for the three of us. At 9.45 p. m.
turned in.

At 7.25 a. ni., barometer 29.84 [757.92 ]. At 7.45 a, .i ., temperature 11.5° [ — ji.4oC.]; barometer,

29.85 [758 i8"""J. Strong west wind; sky clear. At i p. m., b.arometer 29.87 [758.68"""). At 9.45 p. m.,
temperature +3° [ — 16.1° C.J; barometer, 29.92 [759.95 ']. Clear and calm.

Time {en route), 10 hours, 35 minutes.

Sixteenth march (from end hf Lake to Snow-Bank).

j^tiy 17. — At 8,45 a. m. started from camp. Traveling over the lake much improved. Four hours in
crossing the lake. Found the ascent of the ravine very arduous, especially near its head, on account of the
deep soft snow. The tlogs seemed very weak. Arrived at the snow bank; the dogs climbed to the top, and
by means of a long seal thon? pulled the sledge up from below with everything on it with our assistance;
the ascent occupied but fift ', . ■•".tes. At 5.05 p. m. pitched tent at place of ohl camp. The only signs
of animal life during the ui"! -h v. . .: the droppings of a hare. Killed one of the dogs, "Button," for dog-
food. At S p. m. turned ■ .

At 7 a. m., temperaiur-, I-r^^' [--10.0° C.]; barometer, 30.03 [762.75"""). Bright and calm; east end
of lake, barometer r >_, [71 : 75"""). At 5.10 p. m,, temperature 17° [—8.3° C.]; barometer, 28.25
[717.54'""'). At 7.30 •). ni. jnijierature 10.5° [—11.9° C); barometer, 28.30 [718.81'""'].

Time, 8 hours, i. minutes.

Seventeenth march, across Divide.

May 18. — The carcass of " Button " was completely devoured during the night. At 5.20 a. m., leaving
Christiansen and sledge I ascended with Sergeant Hrainard a height to the south (barometer, 27.82 [7o6.6.'"""|)
about two miles distant and got a good view of the surrounding region. Took the following compa.ss sights ;

Decrees.

Continuation of gUcier-%vall and break in the rolling upland 147

"20-mile Cape" 180

First iceeapped "hog-back" 140

Second ice-rapped " hog-biick " I3i

Third ice-capped "hog-bacli" 126

Fourth ice-capped " hog-bacli " 118

Fifth ice-capped " hog-back" go

Approximate po.sition of next camping place to the east 359

The great wall referred to above could be clearly seen to trend oft" to the southwest, and where lost sight
of in the distance I estimated at forty miles. To the left (east) of it, but much nearer, fifteen miles about, were
the ice-capped domes or "hog-backs" referred to. The glacier at the head of the lake was clearly seen to
issue from the great me r dc glace ; the point of confluence was only about a half dozen miles distant. 'I'he
whole surface of the country to the south of " the wall" seemed nothing but ice. After forty minute.s' delay
(baromett-r, 27.75° [7''-'4-84"'"')), I started north towards the little lake, Sergeant Brainard returning to camp
and bringing on the sledge, iSrc, when we continued on the old route together. Reaching the glacier wall
I followed close along it, instead of inclining to the north as on the outward journey, and took the following
barometer readings in order to get the altitude of the wall (the foot) at the summit: 10.05, ^'^ Lake Glacier
River, temperature 13.5° [—10.3° C.j; barometer, 28.51 [724.14"""]; 11.05, temperature 15° [—9.4° C.];

barometer 28.05 [712.46"""); farther on, 27.75 [704.84' J! 27.65 [702.30""") ; 12.10 p. m., gicacest elevation

of w.all, temper.ature 16° [—8.9° C] ; barometer, 27.60 [701.03"""].

A small lake discovered near by here. A strong, cold west wind was blowing, making traveling uncom-
fortable. Sergeant Brainard and I suffered a good deal with our eyes. At 2 p. m. went into camp at old
place. A snow-bird seen near divide and hare tracks some time before. The late snow-storm has com-
pletely changed the character of the traveling. The snow lies soft and deep everywhere. I had intended
ascending the glacier near the divide at tlie only place where such a thing was possible, but on account of
the state of our eyes and the strong wind blowing, &c., gave it up.

292

TnU LADY FliANKMN liAY EXPEDITION.

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-I '

At 3 a.m., icinpcraturc 7.5° [ — 13.6° C.J; 4.40 a. m., temperature 4.5° | — 15.3°^".]; barometer, 28.37,

[720.58 ]; sky dear, light east wind. At 8.25 a. m. (on lake), temperature 14° [ — lo.ooC.]; b.irometer,

28.25 [717.54"""]; bright and clear. At 2.30 i).m., temperature 18.5° |— 7.5" C.]; barometer, 28.60 [726.43'""']
clear and calm. At 4.30 |). m., temperature 18.5° [ — 7.5° C.]; barometer, 28.62 [726.93""'].

Time, 6 hours, 30 minutes.

Eighteenth march, down Musk-ox Valley.

Aftry 19. — Got little sleep during the night. One of my eyes hurting consider.ibly this morning. At
2.15 a. m., breakfast. The ilogs eat the whip, foot-gear, and seal skin in any form they can get hold of.
At 3.45 a. m. started from camp. On reaching about the miilille of the valley and the Kike I stopped the
sleilge three-ipiarters of an hour, and Sergeant lirainard and I ascendeil the low heights to the north and south
respectively, with litde gain as far as the sergeant was concerned, as farther off and higher elevations cut
otT the view to the south. I had the same experience in attempting to see the north, but to the south beyond
Sergeant lirainard, I could see " the wall ' and trace it along for several miles to the east and west. At 1 1
a. m. went into camp a little beyond cache near old camp. When the lamp was lighted at noon the heat
in the little shelter tent, even with the sides and ends rai.sed, must have been above 90°. One or two fo.x
tracks seen during the march, but nothing more. Several snow-birilsseen and heard. "The wall " seen again
up a ravine to the southeast just before reaching camp, and the mantle on a neighboring "hog-back" was very
distinct. Have got down to almost the last pipe of tobacco; it is harder than short rations. Have now
near._ full allowance of the latter — left at the cache here.

At 3.20 a. m., temperature 16" [ — 8.9° C.]; barometer, 28.58 [725.92"'"]; clear, with light west wind.

At 12 m., '.em|)erature 20° [ — 6.7°C.], barometer, 28.82 [732. 01 J. At 2 p. m., temperature 23° [ — 5.0° C.J;

barometer, 28.82 [732.01"""]; clear and calm. At 10.30 p. m., temperature 24° [—4.4° C.J ; barometer, 28.74
[729.98'"'"]; light west wind.

Time, 7 hours, 15 minutes.

Nineteenth march, down Musk-ox Valley.

J/(iv2o. — Breakfast a half hour before midnight of the 19th; 12.25 a. m., started from camp. ^^^^ many
fresh fox, hare, lemming, and ptarmigan tracks in the "gap," and also an owl Hying overhead. Reached the
old cache near the first camp in this valley in three hours, antl continued on for about three and one-half miles
farther, camping at 4.50 a. m. near the " Rocky Gully " by which we first entered this valley. The traveling
during this march and the preceding rendered easier by the snowfiiU. Sergeant Brainard still suffering a
good deal from snow-blindness. Turned m about 9 a. m.

At 5 a. m., temperature 16° (—8.9° C.J; barometer, 29.65 [753.10"""]; at 7.20 a. ni., temperature i6°
[—8.9° C.J; b.Trometer, 29.62 [7S2.33'"'"J; 9.20 a. m., temperature 22'' [ — 5.6° C.J; barometer, 29.57
[7Si.o6"""J.

Time, 4 hours, 25 minutes. ■

Twentieth march, from Musk-ox Vali.kv to head of Beatrix Bay Valley.

At 4.40 ]). m., breakfast ; no bread, sugar, nor tobacco ; rabbit stew, the piece of meat being stolen by
" Howler." At 5.40 ]>. m. started from camp. Got out of the valley by means of a gorge a little west of the
" Rocky Gully" referred to above. It was very steep, and one mass of stones and rocks. At first it seemed
impossible to get up, but the ascent w.as accomplished in one hour. On the heights above the tr.icks of
inu.sk-oxen — two or three (one a calf) — were seen, going east, and beyond, fox, hare, and ptarmigan tracks.
The travel on- the lake was very poor. Reached old camp at 9 p. m.; found the tent blown down, but the
rations in it antl everything about the large sledge were undisturbed. At 11.15, s"l*pcr.

■At 3.30 p. m., temperature 28° [ — 2.2° C.J; barometer, 29.50 [749.29"""J; 4 p. m., temperature 30°
[ — i.i° C.]; barometer, 29.50 [749.29"""J; clear and calm. At 5.15 p. m., temperature 23° [ — 5.0° C.J;
barometer, 29.48 [748.78"""J ; 9.15 p. m , temperature 25° [—3.9° C.J ; barometer, 29.00 [736.59"""]. Cloudy
with light north wind.

Time, 3 hours, 20 minutes.

'P
M

TUB LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

293

; barometer, 28.37,
.ooC.]; barometer,
!r, 28.60 [726.43"""]

i ]•

this morning. At
y can get hold of.
lake I .slopped the
lie north and south
;her elevations cut
J the south beyond
; and west. At 1 1
d at noon the heat
'. One or two fox
e wall " seen again
og-back" was very
tions. Haive now

:h light west wind.

; barometer, 28.74

imp

id.

Saw many

Reached the

one-half miles

I'he traveling

still suffering a

temperature i6°
jarometer, 29.57

LLEV.

being stolen by

ittle west of the

U first it seemed

the tr.acks of

;armigan tracks.

down, but the

emperature 30°
[-5.00 C.];
S9"'"'J. Cloudy

TWENTV-FIRST MARCH, DOWN VaI.I.EY TO BEATRIX BaV.

Afiiy 21, A very strong south wind during our rest whicii threatened to blow the tent down. At 9.30

a. m., breakfast. At 10.10 a. m. left camp with original outfit. Found the travel much improved by the
late snow and wind. Reached bay in three and a f|uarter hours ; delayed here a half hour, and then pro-
ceeding, went into camp at 4.30 p. m., three-quarters of an hour from the cape, where the bay bends to the
north, nearly opposite Record Point. The snow on this part of the fiord [Archer Fiortl] very thin ; the
ice fast melting. Got water for first time without melting ice. Supper at 6 o'clock and turned in at 7.30.

At I2.4S a. m., temperature 28° [ — 2.2° C.|; barometer, 28.95 [735.32' "']; weather fine. At 7 a. m.,

temper.iture 33° [ + 0.6° C.j; barometer, 28.98 [736.08 [; strong north wind. At 1 1 a. m., temperature 36°

[2.2° C.J ; barometer, 28.98 [736.08 j ; light north wind, getting stronger and blowing all d.iy. At 5 p. m.,

temperature 37.5° [i;.i° C.]; barometer, 29.70 [754.37"""1> ^^ ^-45 !'■ "i'. temperature 28° [ — 2.2° C.j; barom-
eter, 29.75 [755-<'4 \< ^^'"'l northeast.

Time, 5 hours, 20 minutes.

Twenty-second march, down Archer Fiord to Simmonds Bav.

Mav 22. — At 4.30 a. ni., breakfist. At 5.50 a. m. started from camp and traveled rapidly, reaching
head of bay in about two and a quarter hours. Pitched tent at 8.15 a, m. with the intention of proceeding
up the valley with little sledge, to explore it, having had an idea that Musk-ox Valley came out here.
" Howler," being unwell, was left behind. With the rest of the team and Sergeant Brainard and Christiansen I
left at 9.50 a. m., taking the small sledge. The mouth of the valley is closed in by two immense " shoulders,"
like huge walls, which separate just sutticiently to form a narrow gap, like a gateway, in which the stream-bed
lies. Through this we passed, and passing around several "shoulders," now projecting from the right and
now from the left, after passing over several small lakes reached a large one, over which we traveled for two
hours, when we reached the end of the valley, a low divide about 200 feet [61"'] altitude in the middle, per
barometer, above the lake. The lake is from one to two miles wide, and the valley a mile or more wider and
probably fifteen long, and walled in on each side by immensely high cliffs, which slope back and gain a greater
elevation beyond their crests. From the top of the divide we saw what is doubtless Musk-ox Valley, a valley
like it in every respect, extending to the right and left about a half dozen miles, and at about a right angle
with the general course of Simmonds Bay Valley. The "divide" is hardly two miles wide, and presents a
curious feature in the topography of the region. Several sledges of smooth, polished rocks crop out on top.
The lake is about twelve miles long, its north end obliquing to the left from where we left it, and eri'Hng
about one and a half miles beyond. After taking compass sights, &c., we proceeded back. No game or
tracks were seen. Reached camp at 5.15 p. m. The dogs tr;.veled very fast going and coming, the ice
being smooth and hard, little or no snow at all. The ice on the lake very thick an d quite clear. At 8. 1 5
p. m. turned in.

At 5 a. m., temperature 32° [0.0° C.]; barometer, 29.79 [756.65"""]; calm and foggy. At 5.45 a. m.,
temperature 27° [ — 2.8° C.J; barometer, 29.79 [7S6'65"""]; clear overhead, but foggy around the horizon.
At 8.30 a. m., temperature 31° [—0.6° C.J; barometer, 29.73 [7S5.I3'""']; calm. At 5.30 p. m., tempera-
ture 27° [ — 2.8° C.J; barometer, 29.63 f752.59"""J. At 7.35 p. m., temperature 23° [ — s-o'' C.J; barometer,
29.68 [753.86"'"'J; calm and clear.

Time, 2 hours, 25 minutes.

Twenty-third march, Simmonds Bay down Archer Fiord.

May 23. — At 4 a. m., breakfast. At 5.15 a. m., started from camp. At Depot Point we stopped and
examined rocks for the depot, but, like last summer, were unsuccessful. Shortly after this we esi)ied a large
harbor seal, and Christiansen neariy succeeded in shooting it. At 9.30 another was seen, and this time
Christiansen was more successful — killing it. It was of the same kind, and weighed probably 200 jjounds; a
very large one. It was skinned, and the meat and blubber taken along. The snow along here w.as rather
soft and deep, and traveling slow. At 1 1.30 a. m., went into camp. Supper at i p. m. The liver of the
seal W.1S delicious. At 2.30 p. m. turned in.

At 3 a. m., temperature 21° [—6.1° C.j. At 3.40 a. m., barometer 29.68 [752.59"""J. At 4.45 a. m.,
temperature 28° [—2.2° C.]; barometer, 29.63 [7S2.S9"""J; calm and cloudy.

Time, 6 hours, 15 minutes.

II I ■

■4

' '

i '

iti!

1 i

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294

TUE LADY FllANKLIN HAY EXrEDlTlON.

TWENTV-KOURTH MARCH.

Afity 24. — Breakfast at midnight. At 1.30 a. m. broke camp ami startal. Many of tlic ilogs tlisgorge<l
themselves of the b'ujjber of which tliey had eaten too much, and traveled badly in <onse(iiR'nie. Stopped at
place of old camj) (liie sixonj out) and put on cac lie left there. About a (piarter of a mile be\ond we crossed
a singular crack in the ice, extending from shore towards the opposite shore as far as the eye ( ouhl reac h.

AVater appeared abo.it afoot [304 | below the ite surface; crack about fifteen inches [about 380""") wide.

At 9.20 a. m. went ii to camp about three miles below Hillo< k Depot, at a conspi( uous point. At 1 1 a. m.
supper of fried seal meat, which was f()un<l excellent. A few fox and hare tracks seen during the march,
and one or two seals. At 1 2 noon turned in.

At I a. m., tem[)eiature 25.50 [ — 3.6' (;.J ; barometer, 29.79 [756.65"""]. Overcast; threatening snow.
At loa.m. temperature 27 [ — 2.8 C.J; barometer 29.84 [757.92'"™!. At 12 noon, temperature 28 [ — 3. aC.j;

barometer, 29.84 (757-<,)2"'"'|. At 4 ]>. m., barometer 29.89 (758.94' J. .Snow-storm from the east raping.

At 9 p. m., temperature 23 | — 5.0'CJ; 9.30 ji. m., barometer 29.93 [760.21'"'"]. Snowstorm from the
east. At 10 p. m., bre.-.kfast. Stew of seal meat. At u ]). m., temperature 22^ [ — 5,6^^ C.) ; barometer,
29.89 [759. 19'"'"]. At I.' midnight started from camp. .\ strong east wind, with snow and fog.

Time, 7 hours, 50 m nutes.

TWKNTY-KI»TH MARCH, TO IIeLLOWS.

Afiiy 25. — Sergeant Hriinard and I wore snow-shoes during the march ; one of us always ahead of the
dogs. The snow was very deep and travel slow. At 6.55 a. m. we reached the depot tent at IJasil Norris
Bay and stopped to camp. The snow overland, as well as at times before, came up over the slats. 'I'he dogs
did well. At 9.15 a. m. supper, and at 11.45 ^' '^* turned in.

At 7.17 a. m., temperatu.e 22 [ — 5.6- C] ; barometer, 29.88 [758.94"""]. At 11.15 •''• "!•> temperature
24' [—4.4'-' C.]; 11.45 ^' "'•> barometer 29.84 [757.92'""'].

Time, 5 hours, 55 minuter.

TWENTV-SIXTH MARCH, 1 ROM BkLLOWS TO FoRT CONCER.

May 26. — At 1.30 a.m., temperature 19.5'^ [—^-'f ^"'li barometer, 29.87 [758.68""" ]. Snowing. At
1.45 a.m., breakfast. One of the dogs ate all the net-work out of one of Sergeant Hrainard's snow-shoes;
the latter, however, replaced it with seal thong so that it answered very well. Several feet of Christiansen's
whip were also quickly swallowed, the whip being laid down for ,1 moment. At 4.10 a. m. left camp and
proceeded towards Fort Conger via the south side of harbor. The traveling was abominable, worse than
ever. Wearing snow-shoes it did not particularly affect nie, but Christiansen would frequently go up above
the thigh in the deep soft snow. " Howler" gave out ojjposite the "west entrance," and had to be left. At
9 o'clock, ojjposite the northwest corner of Bellot Island, I abandoned the large sledge and, transferring what
was nece.s.sary to the small one, reached the station thus at 12.10 p. m.

Time, 8 hours.

Tabulated statement of distances.

Locality.

Stony Point

Fiord

Ella Hay

(llacier

Klla Hay

Heatrix Hay. ...
Head of valley.
Musk-ox Valley

(iap ..

Glacier

Snowdrift

Lake

Hours

en roit/i'.

h. m.

7 50

I 00

8 05

65!

5 S'>

5°

5 '"

I 20

4 •;

5 ^f

3 55

5 5.^

6 3t

3 3°

1 1

6 55

7 '5

I 45

8 JO

« 45

■ 60

10
10
'3

9
12

8
21
13
22

Loc.ility.

Farthest

Lake :

Snow-drift

(i lacier

Near Gap

Musk ox Valley .

He.ad of Beatrix Hay Valley

Fiord

Siinmonds Bay

Fiord

Do...

H.isil Norris Hay

!''ort Conj;cr

Hours

<•« runtf.

•— >

h. m.

8 40

I 00

>o 35

I 00

8.5
6 30

30
30

•3

7 '5

I 00

4 25

3 20

5 20

2 25

6 15

• (?)

7 50

2.5

6 55

8 00

I 00

-•

Tilli LAUY FUA^KLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

295

\c clogs disgorged
lue. Sti>inicd at
cyond \vc irossed
vyc lould reach,
out 3So"""J wide,
lint. At 1 1 a. m.
hiring the inarch,

threatening snow,
re 28'^ [-2.2 C.|;
n the e.ist raging,
rt-storm from tlie
^ C.J ; barometer,
nd fug.

ways ahead of the
;nt at Jbsil Norris
e slats. The dogs

MilM.

DiiWnce traveled out (604-144). ao4

iJiiUnce IraveleU back (O4 j 104) iWJ

37a
Kecunnaissances, &c ^i

Total miles traveled .... . .-.• . 437

Distance tietween heatls ufGreely ami Archer Fiurdii (about) 85

Allttiiilfs hy barometer (reduced).
[Above lea-level.]

Locality.

Mount Diflicult...

('ani)i VIII (near Mount Easy).
Mount ICsy .................

I.ako Carolyn

Mouth of Kocky (iully

Camp IX (in valley)

Camp X (yap)

Lake Nan

Camp XI (near glaciei wall) ..

Feet.

Meter*.

4.444

1.354

680

207 1

a. 730

83a '

i.ios

337

340

104 ,

420

12S

685

209

920

280

1,240

378

Locality.

Feet.

Diviile: ,

At foot of glacier wall ' 2,210

Two or tliree n\iles noilli . . 2, 610

Lake Harry 1 1,320

Lake Ites»ie ^ l.'ijo

Mount Hulton. , a, 008

Camp XII (near Mount Hutton).' 1,528

Lake lieyond.. *o

Fossil Mount (near Z'^'thest).. 3, 140

Meters.

674

795
402

497
612
466
»o
652

a. m., temperature

]. Snowing. At

ard's snow-shoes;
of Christiansen's

m. left camp and
able, worse than

ently go up .ibove
ul to be left. At
transferring what

Sledge ration.

Ounce*.

Meat (English cortied beef, bacon, sausage, or musk-meat) ....... 33

Butter 3

Bread lo

Beans or jwlatoes 4

Tea or chocolate, avemge aliout . I

Sugar . 2

Milk yi

Salt ^

Pepper A

Alcohol 6

Total food . 42

Total ration ..... . . . 48

ours

route .

h. m.

8 40

I 00

10 35

I 00

8 15

6 30

7 '5

I 00

4 25

3 20

5 20

25 ! 9

2 25

6 '5

I (?)

7 50

(,4

<> 55

8 00

I 00 J

Outfit (Icavitig Fort Conger).

Pound*.

Tent poles and pins, 36 ; rubber blanket, 6^^ ; ax and shovel, 12 54^^

2-man bulTalo sleeping-bag, 22 ; dog-skin sleeping-bag (1 -man), 12 34

Lamp, 5 ; 2 pairs snow shoes, 6 ; sextant, S:c., 9I2 20^

Telescope, field glasses, and compasses 8

Shotgun, rifle, and ammunition, 27 ; medicine, 4 31

Cook's bag, 1 2 ; clothing-bags, 30; extra lashings, 5 ............ 47

Sledge.

'95
109

304

Little sled, 25 ; shelter ieii', poles, and pins, 10 ■ lo,::>, l|i ; 2 knapsacks, 6 42^^

90 rations (3 men 3od.-,i |. 3/0 lbs. less 40 lbs H ( hllock Depot 230

3 sacks of |>emmican 'li ig- cjodj . ..... 385

Total.

961 >^

* Assumed.

I ■

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! M

III M

■I

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296

TUE LADY FRAXKLIN 15AY EXrEDITIOX.

O/////'/ <>/ little slcilf^e {May 8, 1883).

Shelter tent, 10; sleepingbaKS, 34; lamp, 5 ; ax, 6I4 ; sextant, 2 57!^

I lorizon, I ; me'Cury, 2 ; telescope, j '4 ; compasses, 2 ^%

Shotgun, S-i^' ; amr'niition, ('4 ; extra lashings, J ; medicine, 2 16

Cook'.T i)at;, 6; _{ clothiiif; hags, () ; iiibht'i- hlankcl, O'j . 21 1^

RecordhaH and Hags, j; spare slat, 2 5

108 li
Small lami), knapsacks, and snow-shoes . 13)^

II days' rations for 3, at 45 ounces* (7 ounces hread instead of 10) 92;'+

I sack penr.iiican (dogfoodj I'J'i

Total 1,^^%

J. 15. LOCKWOOI',

Second Lieutenant, Twenty-third Infantry, Acting Signal Officer.

Washington, n. C, yune 30, 1885.

Sir : In compliance with your instructions of this date, I liavc the honor to submit tlie following report
relative to tiie discovery of fossils, &c., on the southern shore of dreely Fiord, in latitude 80° 48.5' N., longi-
tude 78° 26' W., the farthest western point attained by Lieutenant Lockwood and myself during the spring
journey of 1883.

The cliffs at tliis place presented a broken and formidable front, and were so abrupt that we could not
scale them directly. However, by following a deep and rocky ravine, we managed finally to reach the
summit of the cliffs. I quote from Liv.atenant Lockwood's journal : " These clitVs have an altitude, per
barometer, of 2,140 feet [652'"]; almost a vertical fall of that immense height. • • • En route we
found a number of fossils of what seemeil to be trees, snakes, fish, &c. IJrainard was the first to notice
them."

Lieutenant Lockwood doubdess intended to say that the altitude of the mountain back of the cliffs,
instead of the cliffs projier, was 2,140 feet [652'"]. Remarking on this journey to the summit, my notes say.

".Vfter a hard climb for over three hours we reached the high oiintry back of the line of cliffs by means
of a deep ravine, which o|)ens near our camp. By barometric mcisurement the summit was found to be
2,250 feet |685"'| above the sea-level.

"On the top of the mountain, as well as along the edge of the line of cliffs, we found fossilized marine
animals and petrified wood and coral in great quantities. The most remarkable iliscovery of this character
was the stump of a petrified tree firmly embedibul in the frozen earth, its protruding roots so perfect and its
structure so complete that, in cur minds, no tloubt existed as to i's original growth where it then stood. It
was about 10 inches [about 250"""] above the groumi, and in diameter about 6 inches [about 150"""]. Not
being able to extricate it, we contented ourselves with a small fragment, which we broke off by striking the
stump sharply with a large stone."

'J'liis remnant of a tree was located in the ravine through wliich we asceni'ed the mountain, and, as I
recollect, was at an elevation of about 1,500 feet (about 450'" |, or near the top of the cliffs, along which we
found in the greatest profusiov, pieces of petrified wood anti the fossil remains of shell-fish, snails, &c. I do
not remember that anything if a similar nature was found below this altitude, and the fact that the ground
was covered with sncw to a dejjth of several inches along our route to this point would seem to entitle this
opinion, although formed at a late ilay, to considerable weight.
I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

I). L. Hkainakd,

Sergeant, Signal Corps,

First Lieut. A. W. (Ireely,

Fifth Cavalry, U. S. Army, Acting Signal Officer and Assistant.

*. Should lie 43;^ ounces, as alcohol was reduced to 5 ounces and no inUk was taken along.

:ilU>

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

297

Appendix No. 87. — Orders to Dr. Pary relative to natural history data.

Fort Conger, Grinnki.i. Land, May 1, 1883.
Sir: I have the honor to request that you furnish nie not later than May 31, 1883, with the following

infoimation:

I. A list of all plants collected since August 11, 1881

I'his' list will show the generic and specific
names when :.nown. Plants unknown will he referred tc under the numbers given them, as directed in a
communication of this date. The earliest date on which the plants were known to be in blossom will he
given. If this is not known it will be stated in each case. In rases of rare plants, the name of the collector
will be given.

2. A list of all birds procured since August ii, 1881. In case of stuftcd specimens, there will in all
cases be given its numlier, its sex, the locality and time obtained, and the name -if the collector. Unknown
birds will be referred to with reference to their numbers The ilate of each bird's ai)i)earancc will be given,
or if not known the record will so set forth.

3. A list of all insects (adding spiders to this list) with data therefor, similar to that required for lists
I and 2.

4. 5, and 6. Similar lists of mammalia, fishes, and moUusca.

7 and 8, List of all Eskimo remains and driftwood which arc in your ciiarge, with full and clear data
as to the character, the time and place, and by whom obtained. Where specimens have been transferred to
the commanding officer or other person, you will so state.

9. A list showmg, with their numbers, all other collections made, but which do not come under the
heads above enumerated.

It is desired that you add to tlicsc lists such other data or remarks as will facilitate the speedy descrip-
tion of these collections on the return of this expedition, or as will secure similar results if it becomes neces-
sar3' to abandon them. Such assistance, clerical and otherwise, as is necessary for this work w ill be furnished
you, on your request, between the hours of y a. m. and 3 p. m. dailj.
I am, sir, respectfully yours,

A. W. Greelv,
First Lieut,, Fijih dm, A, S. 0, and Assisttint, Commanding-

Acting Assistant Surgeon 0. Paw,

U. S. Army.

Appendix No. 88. — Orders to Dr. Pavy relative to botanical specimens.

Fort Concf.r, Grinnei.i, Land, JA/r 2, 1883.

Sir: I have the honor to request that you deliver me not later than May 20, 1883, six complete sets
of plants obtained by this expedition since August 11, 1881. These sets are to be separate, and in their
arrangement should be made as light anil compact as possible to admit of being easily stowed in case of a
retreat by boats. It is intended that each officer of the expedition shall be charged with duplicate sets in
case of such retreat, in preparation for which these sets are needeil. One set will be numbered from one
upwards in order for easy reference iiereafter.

If reasons exist why certain specimens (such as fungi) cannot be so arranged, you will state by letter
giving their number, and, when known, their generic and sjiccitic names.

Lichens and friable .specimens will be arranged in light pasteboard boxes.
I am, sir, respectfully yours,

A. W. Grfeiv,
First Lieut., Li/t/i Cav., A. S. O. and Assistant, Commanding.
Actnig Assistant Surgeon O. Paw,

U. S. Army.

\- 1 1

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298

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITIOlir.

Appkndix No. 89. — Orders I0 Lieutenant Lockivood to relieve Dr. Pavy as naturalist.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, yune i, 1883.

[Orders No. 2.]

Second Lieut. James B. Lockwood, Twenty-third Infantry, A. S. O., will relieve Acting Assistant Surgeon
O. Pavy, U. S. Army, of the duties of naturalist of this expedition. Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Pavy, on
receipt of this order, will transfer to Lieutenant Lockwood all collections and specimens in his charge
[* with] an inventory [thereof]. He will also furnish as fiir as practicable such data as will enable Lieutenant
Lockwood to make the written reports required by communications from the commanding oflicer to Dr.
Pavy under date of May i and 2, 1883. Lieutenant Lockwood will make the report required by the above-
mentioned communications within five days from the completion of the inventory of specimens.

You are advised that at lease six hours daily will be given to this work until the completion of this
transfer.

The portion of the collections made by Dr. Pavy which he may desire to keep as personal, and which
are not needed to perfect the official collections, can be retained by him, awaiting final approval by the
Chief Signal Ofiicer of the Army.

A. W. Greely,
First LifiifeHaitf, Fifth Cwaliy, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Cmnmandini; the Ladj Franklin Bay Expedition.

Appendix No. 90. — Lieutenant Ljjcktvood'' s report on natural history specimens received from

Dr. Pavy.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, yune 10, 1883.

Sir : In reply to your communication of the 8th instant, I have the honor to transmit herewith a copy
of the "list of specimens" turned over to me by Dr. Pavy, which is the only written data received from him
pertaining to the transfer or to the reports required by you, and is substantially the only information elicited,
either written or verbal. My efforts to obtain anything more Iiave been unsuccessful.

The "condition of the sjiecimens" I can best state in detail, though, as there was no complete itemized
list of any portion, it was difficult to know what was of the collection and what not. All the mounted
plants were in your possession ; the others in vials with alcohol, in small boxes or bags, or in tlie large tank
with birds, &c. The stulTed birds were, with a few exceptions, wrajjped in paper and packed in boxes; those
not stuffed were in vials with alcohol or in the tank referred to. The insects (all much covered with dust)
were on cork, in two small boxes, one open and the other nailed up, also in many small match-boxes, vials
&c. The two ermines and hares were in the box with the birds ; most of the other animals in vials with
alcohol, as were alsr • 'he various water organisms, fishes, &c. The Eskimo relics were mostly packed in one
large box, together with most of the fossils, shells, &c. Most of the deer antlers were in a box together.
The musk-ox skins were on the roof of the house, and the skeletons on the tripod or under the ice in the
water. None of the skeletons are yet prepared. The only specimens regularly packed in boxes were the
stuffed birds and animals (with perhaps a few exceptions), some of the insects, and most of the Eskimo relics,
fossils, deer anders, iVc. The appended list embraces, with a few exceptions, all of the specimens labeled,
but many were found without any descriptive data attached, and few or none with such data complete. The
Eskimo relics almost wholly wnnted any data by which they could be identified. The specimens were found
in and outside of three wall tents, occupied also by medical stores and the |)ersonal effects of Dr. Pavy.
The collection generally was very much confused, and no attempt at arrangement according to classes,
numbers, or otherwise, or at keeping it separate and distinct, was apparent.
Very respectfully, your obeilient servant,

J. T?. LocKWoon,
Second Lieutenant, Ticenty-tliinl Infantry, A. S. O.

First Lieut. A. W. Gkeklv,

Fifth CaTulrv, A. S. O. and Assistant, Commanding.

^Braclieted words doulitfuf owiiiij to illcgibifity of letterpress Copy.— A. \V. G.

'U.

THE LAI>Y FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

299

naturalist,
'une I, 1883.

\ssistant Surgeon
;eon O. Pavy, on
ns in his charge
nable Lieutenant
ing oflicer to Dr.
ed by the above-
mens.
ompletion of this

sonal, and which
approval by the

LY,

ssistauf,

V Expedition.

s received from

iue 10, 1883.
: herewith a copy
eceived from him
brmation ehcited,

omplete itemized
All the mounted
in the large tank

in boxes; those
ivered with dust)
atch-boxes, vials^

als in vials with
;ly packed in one
a box together,
ler the ice in the

boxes were the
le Kskimo relics,

ciiuens labeled,
complete. The

ens were found

ts of Dr. Pavy.
ding to classes,

Avonn,
i. S, O.

Fort Conger, Grinnei.l Land, yung 1, 1883.
Zisto/ /lints from yuly, 1881, to August, 1882. Box Nos. i aiht 2.

No. 503.
504.

50S'
506.
44.
507.
508.
509.
510.

S'«-
512.

in-
514.

5'5-

5.6.

517-
518.
SI9.

522.

523-
526.

524.

527-

528.
529-
530.
S3I-

532.

533-

1882.

Black r.uillemot, Creenlaml, July, 18S1.
I-aras Claucus, Discovery Harbor, June 4.
Hernicla lireiila, Discovery Harljor, June 2,
Hernicla Brenta, Discovery Harbor.
Snow bunting, by Drainard, Cape Bryant.
Turnstone, Discovery Harl>or, June 8, 1882.
(iuillemots, near Littleton Islantl, July, 1881.
Saniliiiper, Discovery llarlxir, June, 1882.
Turnstone, Discovery Harbor, June 8, 1S82.
Sandpiper, Discovery Harbor, June, 1882.
Dovekie, Discovery Harbor, June, 1882.
Dovekie, Discovery Harbor, June, 1882.
King duck (male), Discovery Harl)or, June 18, 1882.
King duck, Discovery Harlmr, June, 1882.
Long tailed duck (female). Discovery Harlwr, June,

1882.
Long taileil duck (male), Discovery Harbor, June,

1882.
Long tailed duck (male). Discovery Harbor, June,

1882.
niacus [Claucous] Ciull, Discoveiy Harbor, June,

23, 1882.
King duck (male), Discovery Harbor, June 30, 1S82.
Eider duck (male), Dutch Island, July 2, 1882.
Skua, Discovery Harl>or, July 10, 1882.
Sabine gull, shot by Schneider, Discovery Harbor,

July 8, 1882.
Kider duck. Discovery Harbor, July 10, 1882.
Skua, Discovery Harbor, July 10, 1882.
Turnstone, Discovery Harbor, July 10, 1882.
Turnstone, Discovery H.irbor, July 20, 1882.
Krmine, shot by Henry, Discovery Harbor, July 22,

1882.
Ermine (male), shot by Jewell, Discoveiy Harbor,

July 26, 1882.
Eider duck, shot by Long, Di-scovery Harlx)r, July

27, 1882.

534. Claucus [Cilaucous] gull. Lake Alexander [Alexandra]
Council, .Vug. I, 1882.

521. Hare, by Lt. Lockwood, Greenland Coast, Rabbit I'niut.

ip Boxes 3. Lichens.

No. 10?. Samples of driftwood from pieces found at St. Pat-
rick's Kay and Discovery Harbor. Descrip-
tive li.st in the hand of commanding ollicer.
Mark on samples : (l — 2 — X — II — NC

— 4 'l.V r. — VIH V— .\I (11)

-Vll 3.

I Box containing Eskimo remains. To identify these speci-
mens it will be better to be provided with a
photograph.

1 set of deer antlers from Lake Ha/en.

Inbox. Skull of Eskimo, and one se.il from Littleton Island.
Box I. Eggs collected in neighborhood of Ft. Conger, .\ug.,

1882.
Barrel I. Containing old .skull of musk-ox found at ( 'aj e

liaird by Hrainard.

2 skins, seal, small and large, collected at Distant Cape and

Discovery Harbor, 7th of June and Aug.,
1S82.

(p 3 sets of lichens in lliree boxes (given to connnniuling
oflicer).

(p Fungi and plants in alcohol (Fungi cannot e.isily be trans-
ported without being crushed).

cp sets 3, mounted plants.

(p sets I complete, consisting of 62 plants collected around
Discovery Harbor and vicinity; and in which
are I fern (No. 9), 5 grasses (No. 54, 40, 39,
35 and 41), E(|uisetace [F.i|uisetaceLi] (No
56), 3 mosses (No. 18, 19 ami 51).

I'Lint (No. 55) is an Erica from Lake Hazen, of which the
species is not found around Discovery Harbor.

Skeleton to be prepared.

Foxes, Polar Hear, liircl, Wolf, Musk-ox heads.

A part of these specimens will need to have the lluid changed.

OcTAVK. Paw,
A. A. Su>xi-i'u, U. S, A.

Fort Concer, Grinnei.t, Land, yuvf i, 1883.

List of specimens from yuly, 1881, to August, 188.1

No. 45. Cape Delano, fossils, Feilden I'cninsula, (Irinnell
Land, 1882.

80. Annelida;, Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.

81. Annelid;e, Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.
79. CnLstacciV, Discovery Harl)or, July, 1882.

72. Annelid;e, Discovery Harbor, June, 1882. .

73. Meilus;v, Discovery Harbor, April, 1882.

70. Annelid;e, Discovery Harbor, June, 1882.
75. Annelid;e, Discovery llarlior, June, 1882.

71. Annelida;, Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.

66. Medusa-, Discovery Harbor, June, 1882.

62. Molluscoida', Discovery Harbor, .Xugust, 1882.

67. Annelida-, Discovery Harbor, July, 1S82.

No. 69. Annelida, Discovery Harbor, July, 18.S2.

74. Amieli<la', Discovery Harbor, .\ugust, 1SS2.
65. Molluscoida (BrachioiKxhf), Discovery Harbor, July,
l88«.

63. Molluscoida", Discovery Harbor, .\ugust, 1882.
68. Medus.a-, Discovery Harbor, May, 1S82.

64. Annelida, Discovery Harbor, .\ugust, 1882.
109. Mol'uscoida', Discovery Harbor, July, 1SS2.

105. Molluscoida, Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.

106. Rocks, Bellows.

88. Fish, Discovery Harbor, August, 1882.
82. Annelid.r, Discovery 11 irbur, .\ugust, 1882.
108. Rocks, llellows, 1882.

»! ■

^'1

■'ii:

300

No. 107.
ICX}.
lOI.

104.

98.

94.

III.
112.

114.

MS.
116.
117.
118.
120.
124.

127.
126.
121.
125.
123.
136.
129.
138.
122.
130.
til-

134-
133-
132.
106.
no.

'35-
140.

145-

146.
141.
90.

77-
78.
76.

143-

144.

'39-

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Rocks, Bellows, 1882. No. 84.

Shells, Bellows, 18S2.

Rocks, Bellows, 1882. 87.

Plants, Lockwood Island, 1882.

Metlusie, Discovery Harbor, June, 18S2. 8g.

Crustacx- [Crustace;i], I )iscovery I I.irlior, July, 18S2. 149.

Sand Star, t'arl Hitter K.iy, August, 1882. 14S.

I lemming, Discovery Harbor, .August, 1887.

I lemming. North Cireenland Coast, by Lieutenant 147.

Lockwood. 142.

Bird, July, 1882. 156.

Sounding near Littleton Island, July, 1882. 157.

Red .snow, Carey Island, July, 1882. 158.

Egg of skua. 175.

Sounding, Discovery Harbor, September 6, 1881. 83.

Knto/a [ento/oa] of seal Melville Bay, July, 1881. 91,

Egg of benta [brenta]. Discovery Harlior, August, 86.

1881. so.

Cryptogamia;, Cairn Hill, July, 1S81. 83.

Ku'tus [fiit.-xl] hares. Discovery Harbor, July, iSSl. ISI

Alg;t, Discovery Ilarljor, July, 1881. 173.

Skua. IS3.

1 egg. Discovery Harbor, July 2S, 1882. IS4.

2 eggs. Discovery Harbor, .\ugust 2, 1882. 93,
S turnstones. Discovery Harljiit, August 2, 1882. 102,
Cryptogamiie, Discovery llarlrar, July, 1882. 95.
4 ducks. Discovery Harlior, July, 1S82. 96.
Rocks, Black Rock Vale, 1882. S^'
Rocks, Black Rock Vale, 1882.

Shells, Bellows, 1882, 43.

Rocks, Bellows, 1882. 174.

Shells and t)ones from Eskimo camps, Bellows, 1882. 1 7 1

Rocks, Bellows, 1882. 163.

Annelida;, Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.
Fish, Cape Joseph Henry, April, 1882.
Rocks and fossils, Cape Delons [Delano], April,

1882.
Rocks and fossils. Cape Delons [Delano], April,

1882.
Rocks, shells, and rosin, Bellows.
Rocks, shells, Lincoln Bay, April, 18S2.
Crustacx> [crustacea;]. Discovery Harlior, July, 1SS2.
Molluscoidie (gaslero). Discovery HarlKir.July, 1S82.
Annelida;, Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.
Molluiicoidiv (gastero). Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.
Shells, Lincoln B.iy, April, 1882.
( Box) S cruslacx' [orustaceiv], collect id by Sergeant

Brainard, St. Patrick Bay.
Cruslacu' [crustacciv], Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.

"Omission in original.— A. W

Molluscidie [niolluscoida;[, Discovery Harbor, July,
1882.

Molluscidiv [molluscoid.e]. Discovery Harbor, July,
1882.

Fish, Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.

Crustacx' [crustace;v]. Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.

Crustacoe [crustaccv] and shells from stomach of
seal. May, 1882.

Crustac;e [crustacex], Discovery Harbor, June, 1882.

Medusa;, Upernavik [Upernivik], July, 1881.

Medusa;, Discovery Harlior, February, 1882.

Sand stars, Carl Ritter Bay, August, 1882.

* from Carl Ritter Bay, August, 1882.

Molluscoida", Upernavik [Upernivik], July, 1881.

CrustaCit [cnistace;v]. Discovery 1 larbor, .\pril, 1 882.

Crustaciv [cru.staceie], Discoveiy I larbor, April, 1882.

Mollu.scoid;v, Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.

Crustaca; [cru.stacea;]. Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.

Crustacff [crustace;e]. Discovery Harbor,June, 1882.

Insects, Discovery Ilarlwr, June, 1882.

Medusie, Discovery Harlior, April, 1882.

Sand stars, Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.

Medusa; collected at head of Archer's Fiord .

Crustaca; [crustace.t] , Discovery Harbor, July, 1882.

Crustaca; [crustacea;]. Discovery Harbor, May.

Annelida', Discovery Harlior, February, 1882.

CrustaciE [crustacea;]. Discovery Harbor, iMay, 1882.

I'arosites [parasites] of ptarmigan, Discovery Harbor,
1883.

Rocks from Cape Britannia.

Rocks from Lockwood Island.

Plants from t^ape Britannia.

Plants from L<ickwoo<l Island.

box (Nos. I and 2), (Masse [class] Insecta: Hymen-
optua [Hymenopteni], I.eiiydoptua [Lepidop-
tera] ; Diptera, Heniiplera; Anopura, Arach-
nida.

I box reindeer bones, Discovery Harlior, 1882.

3 ermines.

I glass jar, salmonidn [salmonida:]. Lake Alexandra,
August, 1882.

;■ glass jars, water from palcocrystric berg, 18S2.

3 specimens of musk-oxen.

3 kegs, rocks. Watercourse Bay and Discovery Har-
bor, 1882.

I barrel, coal and fossils from Watercourse Bay.

Petrilication (Brainard), Discovery Harlmr, 1882.

Petrilication of whale, Archer's Fiord, August, 1882.

Large log from Archer's Fiord, August, 1882.

.G.

1' a i I

1 1

Appendix No. 91. — Licutciiaitt LockwooiVs letter and report on natural history specimens.

Fort Conger, Grinnki.l Land, June 30, 1883.
Sir: Tn coi jiliaiice with your instructions of tlic ist and 8th instant, I have the lionor to sul)niit tiie
iifronipanyiii; inventdry of collectidns in iKitura! liistory, i'lassified and arranged, as far as practicable
a^i-ording to )our directions and embracing all the data on the subject in my possession.

THE LADY FllANKLIN WAY EXPEDITION.

301

All adililions to the collection receiveil since I have been in charge are iDidrrscoird, and shown gen-
erally at the end of each list. Si)ecimens dated prior to June i, 1883, or without date, were collected before
the transfer of these articles to my custody.

Some birds and a few skeletons, hides, i\:c. (articles in the course of i)rei)aration mostly), yet remain to
be added to this inventory, it not being convenient to put tiiem on at present.
I am, very respectfully,

J. ]?. Lock WOOD,
Srcoiii/ Lieutenant, Iweuiy-tliird JiiJ'antiy, A. S. O.
First Lieut. A. W. C'iRKPlv,

Fifth Cava/ry, A, S. O. am/ Assistiuit, Comniandii\^.

Indosurc to Appendix No. 91. — Jnvento-y of colleetwns in natural history,

INDEX.

I. Plants (incluiling fungi) 302

II. Birds.. 305

III. i... sects (including spiders) J08

IV. Miimmalia 308

V. Kishes 308

VI. Mollusca((?), Crustacea(i''), Annclida((), Medusa(r/), Star lisli(.) (<■ includes soundings and dredging specimens) 309

VII. Kskimo remains 311

VIII. Drift wood 313

IX. Rocks, shells, fossils, and petrifactions 314

X. Horns, Imnes, and skeletons 315

XI. Hides and skins ' 315

XII. Miscellaneous (eggs, &C.V Game killed in 1883 316

Box

Barrel

Small barrel

Keg

Barrel _

Keg

Box

Barrel

Box

Barrel

Crate

Small box

Barrel

Small box

Barrel ._

Box

Barrel

Box

Small Ixjx

(-'rate

I'ackage .

.Small box

Box

Small box

Do...

Box

Do...

Log

Small box

A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.

J-

1>.

<^
K.
S.
T.
U.
V.

X.
Y.
Z.

AA.
BB.
CC.
DD.

EE.
FF."

Eskimo remains (mostly).

Birds (stuHed).

Pelrilicd tree.

Coal from coal mine.

Rocks, fossils, &c.

Rock crystals.

Reindeer horns.

Rocks and fossils mostly.

Muskox skull, hare skins, salmon, trout, &c.

Seal in alcohol, 19 ([Uarts alcohol to 4 quarts water.

Stufl'ed birds.

Do.
Drift wood.
Bottles and vial.'- with specimens in alcohol.

Do.
Insects, plants from 83° 24', &c.
No. 229, lichens, mosses, &c.
Stuffed birds.
79«. 793. 794, hides.
Bones of bear and musk-oxen.
Stulfcd birds.

8-IO, 811, 816, musk ox calves' hides, and 814, musk-ox bull hides and skull.
Chielly coal from coal mine containing fossils.
Deer antlers and sledge from Distant (.'ape.
651, niannnal bones from Klla Bay.
Few plants in bottle of alcohol .n oil can.

> Skill's of ^2 doien musk-oxen, skeletons ol wolf, owl, and fox.

(85 eggs.

Can containing birds in alcohol.

Tank U. S. Fish Connn'ssion, containing birds in alcohol.

Lichens, by Lieutenant Kislingbury (in two tin boxes).

(671) F.llaliay.

Moss collected near station, summer 1883.

I
i

ill

' i i

j :i

* lit

!lJR

III

t I

! 1

11,1'.

1 I

302 THE LADY FliANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Inclosure to Appeiuiix No, 91. — Inventory of collections in natural history — Continued.

•I. -Plants.

i
"A

St
I

tit

6
'A

4
6
6
6
6
6

3
5
8

6
2

3
C

9
10

II
12

'3
•4
«S
16

17
18

'9
20

21
22
23

27
28

29
30
3«
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40

42
43
44
45
46

47
48

49
50

Name.

li.

(,'.

Remarks, shosviiif; |.;cniis and species
and name ol' collector of rare speci
mens.

2
2
2
2
2
2

2
2
2

2
2

2
2
I
2
2

■•

Mounted pUinls.^

Found in blossom June 23, I883.
Found in blossom June 8, 1883.

Compositie. In hlosssom June 25, 1883.
In l)lossom June 14, 1883.
Oppositifolia, noticed in bloom lune

I, i8S2,Jun.;6,i,S83.
Ranunculus, no.'iced in bloom June 19,

1883.
CompositiC. In blossom June 23, 1883.
Inlilossom June 13, 1883.
I'apaver alpinum. lu blossom June

17. 1883.
Compositit. In blossom June, 1SS3.
Crucifenv (in bloom). In blossom June

16, ICSS3.
Crucifenv (in seed).
I'edicularis cuspilala or nelsonii.
In blossom June 6, 1S83.

In blossom June, I883.

Salix .irctica, noticed in bloom June 2,
1882, June 6,1883.

Cruciferne. In bloom June 8, 1S83.
In bloom June 17,1883.

In bloom June 22, 1883.
Kammculus. In bloom June I7, 1883.
Noticed in bloom June 5, 1882, |une
6, 1S83.

In bloom June 23, I883.
In bloom June 8, 1883.
In bloom June — , 1883.
In bloom June — , 1883.

In bloom June 22, 1S83.
In bloom June 14, 1883.

----

- ■

2
2
2

...

....

---

...

I'liiplc saxifrage.

...

. j

2
2

I
2

\'cllo\v noDDV '

...

....

...

4
6
8

2
8
2
6

4
4
6
6
S
5
9
S

4
4
4
S
7
4
4
3
I

S
2
I
'>

I
I
2

4
I

I
I

I
I
I

2
I

.....

2
I

...

Mo.ss

....do

Willow '

2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2

2
I
2
2

2
I

...

... 2

...

....

2
2
2

...

.....

...

— -

.....

3
2

I
2

2
2
3
1

.!.

f jrass

---

•

...

(Irass .

<lo

... <lo

---

....

Muss

I
I

...

* Data as to plants f ruiii Lieutenant Grcely'.s notes and diary.

t All found In vicinity of Fort Conyar, G, L. ; exceptions noted.

r s I'll

■'WP'S^

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

303

itinued.

Inclosure to Appendix No. ()i .—/nvenlory of collections in titj/um/ /lis/ory—ConUnued.

I. — Plants— Continued.

IK genus and spiciis
ullcctor of nin' spcci

11 luiic 2J, I8S3.
11 June 8, 1883.

lossom |une2S, iSSj.

14. 1883.

liced in liloom June

i, 1S83.

:ed in lilooiii June 19,

lossom June 23, i88j.

13. »883-

. Ill blossom June

)Iossom June, 18S3,
111). In blossom June

:1).

ata or nelsonii.

5, 1883.

I883.

:ed in bloom |une 2,

jom June 8, 1883.
I883.

1883.

lom June I7, 1883.
June's, 'S82, June

ISS3.

1X3.

1SS3.

1883.

883.
S83.

a
u

e
1

d
'A

I
I
I
4

4
2
I

id
1

.I"

a
a
3

ss
sf

57
58
59
60

61
62

Name.

■s.
S

Keiiiaiks, slio« inn K^'""^ •"""' species
and name of eullector of larc speci-
mens.

Moiiiih;/ /■liints —
Cnnlinucd.

Krica from Lake I la/en.
Eipiisclaceie.

Saxifr.ajja tlaj^ellaris. In bluom June

ly, 1SS3,
Composite. In lilooni Jum' 27. I883.

In bloom June 20, 1SS3.

_ - _-

—

— -

I
I
I

—

MOUNTED PLANTS COLLECTED AND MOUNTED JUNE

TO JULY 25, 1883.

Kceptions noted.

M f'No.of
No. of,

, . speci
plants. ' _

2
3
4
5
6

7
8

9
lo
II
12
«3
«4
"5
16

'7
18

'9
20
21

22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30

3«
32

33
34
35
36
37
38

12
12

1 6
•5
•4
•3
»4
16
12
14

47
•3
«4
12

14
14
'3
'5
• S
12
12
12
12
12
12
'3
14
14
12

Name.

Woodsia ilvensis .

Sa.xifraya oppositifolia

I'apavcr alpimnii

Taraxaeuni, Dens leonis

No. 12 in seed

I'ediculuris, Nelsonii

Moss

...do

Salix arctica

Saxifraga tricuspidata

Ranunculus nivalis .

Lycopodium selago ,

Colpodium latifolium .

„ r No.of
No. of I

P'''"'^- mens.

39
40

4«

42
43
44
45
46

47
48

49
50
5>
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59

60
61
62

63
64

65
66

67
68
69
70

Name.

12
16 ,

9 ! Identity doubtful.

«3
12

I No. 4 going to seed

I Suspected to be No. 20

8 i Moss .

12
12

«4

«5
12

12
12
12
12
12
"4

F'.rica .

Ki|uisetHm varieg.ituni ._

Suspected to be leaves of No. 21

Found by Lieutenant Greely; identity with
No. 59 doubtful.

Suspected to be variety of No. 2.
I'ound by Sergeant Cro.ss

Found by Lieut. Greely; variety of No. 15

I'robably variety No. 23

Found by Henry

Horsetail found liy Sergeant Elison. Ec|uise-
tuni arvense.

Found by Cross; variety of No. 23

Found by Klison; variety of No. 23

Found by Ralston

Founil by Elison ; not mounted

!«

3' !•)♦!

1 *

i 1

■ i
1 \

■9}>s

^'.

304

THE LyVDY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Inclosure to Appiudix 91. — Inventory of coUectiotts in natural history — Continued.
MOUNTKIi I'l.ANTS COLLECTED AND MOUNTED JUNE — TO JI'LY 25, 1883-Continued.

No. of

plants.

.speci-

mens.

«4

12 '

Name.

Cochlearia ofticinali.s ; found in bloom June 1 1,

1S82.

I'ound liy Klison ; variety of \o. 27

Kound l)y Lieulenanl (Jreely

.lo._.

I'ouiid by Elison

.lo

l'ossil)ly No. 30, in whicli c.i.se No. 39 would

bear resemblance to N'o. 81. Doth found,

1883, by Lieutenant Greely.

w f'No. of
No. of I

,,lant.s, *l"^"-

83
84
85
86

87
88
89
90

IS
12

Name.

Found by Lieutenant (Ireely.
do

Very cominnn; fouml by Lieuten.int Greely

I'ound by Scrjjeant Klison

Kound by Lieutenant Greely

.Also I sheet, 21 bunches mosjes.

I. Plants — Continued.

No. of tag.

N
()

N
N

— -

—

Name.

When found.

Where found.

Remarks showing genus and species,
collector of ran specimens.

name of

188
189
191
192
193
194

196
197
573
198
199
200
*576

*585
*587
*2o6
*io4
*2os
229
748

573
849

844
864
852
845

"879"
884
887
888

J'hin's in aliohol.
Mushroom order

DitTercnt kind ; many specimens.
Different kiml ; many spccimeiis ; al
Several different kinds.

2 specimens, one kind.
Many specimens, different kind.
One kind.
Many specimens.

In bag in box with plants from
83° 24' N.

Sn\all lree(?).

Grasses, saxifrage, iVc.

(irasscs, saxifrage, iVc, in box 206.

Do.
With a few mosses ; in barrel H.
Chielly water plants.

Small paper box.

In jars with alcohol.
In alcohol.

....do

so fungi.

.. -| - -

I
I

Mushroom order.

do _..

Erica _

Mosses, grasses, saxi-
frage, &c.
Willow

May, 1883

1882
May, 1883
May, 1882

do .

Fossil Mountain . ..

Discovery Ihrbor..
Musk ox Valley , ..
Lockwood Island, _

....do..

Cape Hritannia

Vicinity Ft. Conger.

latitude

P
P
H

w
w
w

z
/.
I

Root or knot

1 box of plants

I bag of plants

1 Ik)x of lichens

Plants .

Mushrooms, S:c

Fort Conger

Diseased willow

1883

Mushroom, &c

1883
1883

Fort Conger

Moss and lichens

Kungus

Moss and fungus

Moss and licliens

Fungus

June, 1883

1883
June 30, 1883

Near st.ition

....do

....do..

Miscellaneous plants .
do

Summer 1883
do

Near station \

... do /

Not in alcoboL

m '

lll:N|||::f
J

ued.
L'ontinued.

ly-

.ieutenant (Ireely

ly:::::::::::::;

n<l .species, name of
sjiecimcns.

cimens.

cimeiis ; also fungi.

kind.

nts from latitude

)ox 206.
•el H.

THE LADY FRANKLIN RAY EXPEDITION.

Inchsure to Appendix No, 91. — Inventory of collections in natural history — Continued.

II. — Birds.

305

503

504

505

506

507

508

509

SIO
5"

S'2

5'3
5'4
5>S
S16

S'7
518

519
S40
538

536
539
537

522

523

526

524
527
528

529
530

533
534

707

705
700

699

698
697
712
715
71.5
716

711

K
\\

B
B
B
P

B
B
P

B
B
L

K
K
K
B
«
K
■

B
P
K

K
B
B
P
B
1.
JJ

K
K

K
K
K
K
K
I,

Name.

When found.

Where
found.

Sex.

Date of—

Remarks.

Appearance.

Dis-

ip|>ear-

ancc.

Stuffed.

Puffin

Glaucous gull

Brent goose

...do...

Snow bunting

Turnstone

Guillemot.

Knot

July, 1881
June 4, 1882

June 2, 1882
July. 1882
May, 1882
June 8, 1882

July, 1881

June, 1882

(jfcenland

Mormon Arcticus.

I.arus Glaucus, reported as
seen by Sergeant Cornell,
Distant Cape; also, l.urus
Leutoptetus at same time.

Bernicla Brenia
Do.

By Sergeant Brainard.

Reported st»'.i by Sergeant
Brainard a'. Ca le Baird.

Bruennich's Guil emot ( i 'ria
Bruennuhii, Cape Sabine).

( X:ria Crylle, L.)

By Private Biederbick.
Do.

By Private Schneider,

By Private Long.
By Private Connell.

By Private Biederbick.

By Sergeant Ralston.
By Private Long.

By Dr. Pavy.

Lieutenant Kislingbury.
Eskimo F'rederik.

Do.
By Sergi int Ralston.

Do
By Private Long.

Do.

Discovery
1 larlxir.

...do

June 5, 1883
June 6, 1883

Cape Bryant
Discovery

Harbor.
Near 1 .ittle-

April 24, 1883
June 2, 1883

ton Island.
D isc overy

June 9, 1883

Turnstone

Harbor,
do

Knot.

do .

....do

Discovery
Harbor,
do

June 8,1883

.1.,

King duck

Ix)ngtaiiduck

....do.

...do.

June 18,1882

June, 1882

....do

...do

....do

...do .

Male..
Female
..do...
Male..

June 17, 1883

June 6,1883

..do...

Glaucous gull

June 2 J, 1882

.\ugust, 1882

Near F'ort
Conger.

Turnstone

Knot

King duck

Eider duck

Skua

August, 1X82

June 30, 1882

July 2, l8S2

July 10,1882

July 8, 1882
July 10, 1882
..-do ...

Near Fort

Conger.
Disco very

Harbor.
Dutch

Island.
Disc overy

Harbor,
-.do.. ..

Male..

..do

June 26, 1S83

Sabine gull

Eider duck

Skua . ...

-..do

...do

Male..

Turnstone ..

..do ... .

.do

....do.

Eider duck .

Glaucous gull

Knot

July 20, 1882
July 27, 1882
.\ugust I, 1882

June 9,1883

...do

Lake Alex-
andra.

Near F'ort
Conger.

Distant

Cape.
Near F'ort

Conger.

Male..

....do...

Female
..do...

Dovekie

Ptarmigan

....do

June 8,1883

June II, 1883

June 12,1883
do

..do...

Male..

l.ongtail duck ...

Knot

Turnstone

Brent goose

.—do

.do

...do

F"emalt
Male..

..._.dv,

June 13, 1883
June 1,), 18H3

....do

Distant

( »|K-.
...do

Male..

Female

H. MiH. 303 20

■ - lima

iMj

If
( •

ri ^

4 i

1^1

; 1 !

i'.

; I

"•■vlJlll^

306 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY KXPEDITION.

Inclosure to Appendix No. 91. — Inventory of collections in natural history — Continued.

II, Birds — Continued.

704

703

7«4

KorL

706

702

Korl.

7'7

69s

694

693

701

709

710

693

701

709

710

693

729

721

733

726

730

73>

742

732

737

741

734

736

727

740

744

743

735

78s

790

792

77^

780

779

7S2

781

72S

78.,

Name.

^///^Cf/— Cont'd.
Lon^lail duck ._

...do

Dovekic

...do

Glaucous gull

...do ._

King duck

Diver duck

Snow l)unliiig._

...do

King duck

Diver .

Snow bunting.

...do

King duck

...do

Tern

King duck

Plialaropc.

King duck

Turnstone .

Dovekie

...do

Owl

King duck .

When found.

June 14, l88j

....do

...do

....do

... do

June 15, 1883

June 17, 1883
...do

-do ...

lunc 16, 1883
.— .do .. ...
June 17,1883

....do

...ilo .
...do .

...do ,

l.ongtail duck .

I'tarmigan .
Kider duck.

Tern

l.ongtail duck ..

Tern

...do.

Longtail duck ..

Tern

Phalarope . _

King duck

Tern

King duck

June 16, 1883

....do

June 17,1883

June 20, 1883
June 19, 1883
June 21, 1883

June 26, 1883

...do

June 22, 1883
June 24, 1883

....do

June 26, 1883
June 25, 1883

....do

June 26, 1883

....do

.do
.do

June 29, 1883
June 28, 1883

June 29, 1883
do

June 26, 1883

July I, 1883
July 2,1883

....do

July 1,1883
....do

Where
found.

Distant
C-'ape.

...do

..do

Near Kort

Conger.
...do

Distant

Cape.
Near Cape

I .icber.
Fort Conger

...do

Distant

(,'ape.
Near Cape

lielier.
Fort Conger

...do

Distant

Ca]ie.

...do

Near station
Cape Mur-

chison.
Distant

Cape.

...do

.Station

Distant

Cape.
...do

Station

lireakwater

I'oint.

...do

Distant

Cape.

..do

...do

Breakwater

I'oint.
Cairn Hill..
I.) i s t a n t

Cape.

Station

Distant

Cape.

Station

...do

Distant
Cape.

Station

Cape Haird.
...do

Station

lireakwater
I'oint.

Sex.

Male.

Female
..do.

Male.
Femal
Male.
Female

..do.

Date of-

Appearance.

Dis
appear-
ance.

Male.

Male

Femah
Male..

Male.

Female

Male

Female
..do...

Male..

Female

M.ale..
..do ..
..do...

..do..
Male I

F'emalc
..do.

Male.
..do..
..do..

Female
..do.

. ilo.
M.ile

.do.
.do.

l''emale

..do..
._do...

M.ile..
Female
..do...

June 17, 1883

Remarks.

Hy Private Long.

Do.
Do.

By Private Biederbick.

By Private Long.
Do.

By Sergeant Brainard.

liy Lieutenant Kislingbury.

By Long.

By Brainard.

Lieutenant Kislingbury.

By Long.

Do.
Wliisler.
Biederbick.

Lieutenant Kislingbury.

Long.

Bender.

Long.

Do.
Found dead by Cross.
Biederbick.

Do.
Long.

Lieutenant Kislingbury.

Long.

Biederbick.

Cross.

Lieutenant Kislingbury.

Long.
Brainard.

Long.

Do.
Lieutenant Kislingbury.

Long.
Brainard.

Do.
Long.

Do.

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

307

inueii.

JndosiiiY lo If'peiulix No. <)\.— Inventory of collections in natural history— ConXmue^,

II. UiRDs — Continued.

Remarks.

e Long.

e Biederbick.
e Long.

\i\< Hi.iinard.
Niaiit Kislingbury.

ir.1.

It Kislingbury.

it Kislingbury.

»d by Cross.

Kislingbury.

786

787
78.1
831

828

799
802
806

805
807
821

125
129

122

187
187

Name.

When luund.

StuffiU—ConiW.
Longlail duck . . .

550

770
770

770
788

796 1

797/
798
883

IT
U
U

U
I
I
I

I
I

N
N

N
N
N
N
Tank.

I Tank.
I Tank.
' Tank.

! Tank.

I
lank.

Tank.
Tank.

Tank.
Can.

Tank.
Tank.

Can.

Can.
(.)

Wliire
found.

June 26, 1883
1883

Brentgoose j J"ly 2,

do ..I do

Longlail duck ...[ July 3,1883

do do

Skua July 9,1883

do ' do

King duck July 8,1883

...do.

I'tarmigan
Knot

/h ahohol.

Skua .

Turnstones (4)

. ..do

(uly 14,1883

j»iy

Eider (lucks (2).. July,

Turnstone

Duck

Turnstone

Ptarmigan (2) .

August, 1882
1882

Small birds (4).

Raven

Dovekies (2) ..

Knot

Turnstones (2).

Turnstone

Owl

June, 1883

....do

June 22, 1883

June 2^, 1883
1882

I'tarmigan !| June 25, 1883

Lnngtail ducks (2)' June 26, 1883

Sex.

Distant;

Cape.

Station

...do

Distant ,

Cape. I

St.ilion |,. ..

...do... , Male..

. . .do .. I Female

Hreakvviiter 1 Male..

Toinl.

Female
Male..

Dali! of—

Appearance.

Dis-
appear

...ilo ..
Station .
...do...

Disco very

Harbor.
...do

Distant

Cape.
D iscovery

Harbor.
Near Fort

Conger.

...do

.Snow bunting (3).
King duck

June 28, 1883
July 2,1883

Longtail ducks (2) June 25, 1883 j
Snow bunting (3).' June 28, 1883

Skuas (2) j July 5,1883

King duck J"'y 9> '883

j Snow bunting July 11, 1883

.do.,
.do..

...do

Breakwater
Point.

M a 1 e I
and fe-
male.

Male
and fe-
male.

Male.
..do..

Fort Conger F'cmale
...do

..do.
..do.

Female

Remarks.

By Lieutenant Kislingbury.

By (lardiner.
lly \Vhi.skr.
By Long.

By Lieutenant Lockwood.

By Saliir.

By Long.

By Biederbick.

By ICskimo Frederik.

By Lieutenant Kislingbury.

Also two lemmings, all young.

By Lieutenant Kislingbury
(put in tank June 26, 1883).

By Long.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

UilM |25
>ttlM |22
Z 1^ 12.0

IL25 i 1.4

|L8

iJ4

HiotDgraphic

Sciences

Corporalion

23 WIST MAIN STRUT

WiBSTM.N.Y. UStO

(716)172-4303

#^ a\ ^r\\

■■\ H

f !

808 THE LADY KBANKLIN BAT EXPEDITION.

ImlosHre to Appendix No, 91. — Inventory 0/ collections in natural ^/j;/([;rv— Continued.
III. — Insects (including spiders).

No. of
lag.

Box.

No. of
speci-
mens.

Name.

When found.

Where found.

Remarks.

'55
159
«5i
153

330

190

568
569

S70
571
572
233

745
746

N
N
N
N
P

Fly

A great many.
Do.

One box containing 17 bumble-bees, 29 butter-
flies, 10 millers, 8 spiders, 19 flies, and 7
dragon flies.

Four cocoons, caterpillars (a great many), and
a half dozen very small insects.

Two minute red insects and 1 yellow.

Lepidoptera, &c. ; tmall paper parcel, several
boxes within containing 1 1 caterpillars, &c.,
5 cocoons, and a bee and several insects.

Small pasteboard box containing i)umerous
vials.

A number in a tin box.

Butterflies, dragon flies, bumble-bees, &c. (in
box 8$ I with eggs).

(Like a spider.)

Caterpillars ...

Insects

June, 1883
June, 1883

Discovery Harbor. .

Parasites of ptarmigan
Insects

I
I
3

Ant „ ..w...

Discovery Harbor. .
do

Worm

....do

Caterpillar..

Ants

Insects

. do

....do

Caterpillars

Cocoons..

Miscellaneous

883

I
I
5

Crustacea

Humble-bees

Dragon flies

July 23, 1883
July 14, 1883
do

Dutch Island

Station

....do

IV. — Mammalia.

No. of
tag.

Box.

Name.

When found.

Where found.

Sex.

Remarks.

53«
53»
Sai

535
III

113

126

187

"878

B
B
B

N
N
N

Stuffed speciineni.
Ermine

July 33, 1883
July 26, 1882
May 7,1882

Discovery Harbor

By Private Henry.

By Sergeant Jewell.

By Lieutenant Lockwood.

Two specimens.

By Lieutenant Lockwood; specimens.

Foetus, 3 young hares and 1 fish.
One specimen.

Also duck and 1 unknown bird.
By .Sergeant Connell and Jens.
Lieutenant (ireely.

....do

Hare

Cape Ben^t, north coast
of Greenland.

Male ..

....do

/m alcohol.

Lemming

Two hares

Aug. — , 1882
May 9,1883

DiKovery Harbor

Taylor Inlet, north coast

of Greenland.
Discovery Harbor

Lemming

Two lemmings

One seal

June 20, 1883
July 15,1883

Discovery Harbor

Lemming

Station

—Fishes.

No. of
tag.

Box.

No. of
speci-
mens.

Name.

When found.

Where found.

Remarks.

'il

201

126

N
N
I
N
N
N

Unknown fish

....do

Salmon trout

Apr., 1882
July, 1882
Aug. 22, 1883
Aug., 1883

Cape Joseph Henry

Discovery Harbor

Cape Alexandra

Discovery Harbor .1...

By Sergeant Rice.

Caught in net.

In box with fictal hares.

Very small.

Very small; in milkcan with Crustacea.

Skeletons

^-L

THE LADY FEAKKLlN BAT EXPEDITION.

308

ttutosure to Appendix No. 91 — fttvenlory oftoUecHons in natural history — Continued.

VI». — MOLLUSCA, &c.

No. of
tag.

Box.

No. of
speci-
mens.

Name.

When found.

Where found.

Remarks.

109

los

•75
86
307
209
211
863

fs'

859

"&
867

N
N

N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N

7
I

Mollusca....

Aug., 1882
July, 1882
Aug., 1882
July, 1882

-—do

.—do

July, 1881
July, 1882

Discovery Harbor .

....do

Upemivik

Discovery Harbor .

Brachiopoda.

Shelb.

Gasteropoda.

Two kinds.

One soft, also I annelida and I star-fish.

Nucula postlandica, in shells.

Soft.

Also Crustacea, &c.

Annelida, &c.

Caught near house, July 27, in dredge.

...do

....do

.—do

..-do

....do

.--.do

.-..do

Shells

June, 1883

....do

..-.do

.—do

Soft mollusk

Soft mollusk, Crustacea,
annelida, starfish, &c.

VP. — Crustacea.

No. of
tag.

Box.

No. of
speci-
mens.

Name.

When found.

Where found.

Remarks.

79
94
90

'39

93
102

8S
144

81
208
212

226 i
8SS

N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N

"n"

N
N
N
N
N

N
N

N
P

4
I

I
14

July.

do .

....do.
....do.
do .

1882

Discovery Harbor..

. do

....do

-..do

....do

And shells from a seal's stomach.
Two kinds.

By Sergeant Brainard (in box).
Fragments.

( Fragment of a large one, and 3
complete (dry) in milk can
i skeleton.

Shrimps caught in tide hole.
Henry— Nymphon grossipes (?).

small ones
with fish

. , . .-. -

May,
June,
April,
June,

July.

do.

1882
1882
1882
1882
1882

Discovery Harbor..
do

I
2

4
1

3
5

I
10

Many

do.

May,
..-.do.
April,

1882
'r88V

....do

„..do

....do

1882
1882

St. Patrick Bay

Discovery Harbor..

July.

June,
July 23

1883
.■883

Dutch Island

310 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Inclosure to Appendix No. 91. — Inventory of collections in natural history — Continued.

VI«. — Annelida.

■

No. of
tag.

Box.

No. of
speci-
mens.

Nane.

When found.

Where found.

Remarks.

7a
70

75
7«
67
69
74
64
82

no
78
84
87
95
29

207

"59
214
767
86s
869

N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N

'n'

N
N

1
I
2
1
2
I
1
I
I

3
I

I
2
I

3
I

Many

July, 1882
June, 1882
do

Discovery Harbor.,
do . .

By Lieutenant Kislingbury.
In bottle with 4 mollusks, &c.

Annelidae, soft mollusks, &c.
Front of house, in dredges.

July, 1882
do

....do

August, 1882
do

... do

. do .. .

....do

July, 1882
do

....do

... do

Feb., 1882
July, 1882

.. do

....do

June, 1883
do . .

Annelida, medusa

....do

July 24, 1883

VId

— Medusa.

No. of
tag.

Box.

No. of
S|)eci-
mens.

Name.

When found.

Where found.

Remarks.

73
66
68

98
142
156
173
>54

'I^
210
213

219

858
866

N
N
N
N

N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N

I
2
I
3

4
S

April, 1882
June, 1882
May, 1882
June, 1882
July, 1881
Feb., 1882
April, 1882
August, 1882
Jan., 1883
May, 1883

Discovery Harbor..
.. do

I specimen by Schneider from Cape Beechey.

. do.

.-..do

Upernivik

Discovery Harbor.,
do

Ella Bay

2
I

Fort Conger

....do

. 1883

VI*.— Star-fish, &c.

No. of
tag.

1.3

'57
«53
207
8s6

"5
118
ISO
843

Box.

No. of
speci-
mens.

Name.

When found.

Where found.

Remarks.

N
N
N
N

N
N
N

3
3

2
I
I

Asteroidea .. ..

August, 1882
-- do

Carl Ritter Hay

2 kinds,

In bottles with mollusks and annelida.

....do

.....do

July, 1882

Discovery Harbor..

Asteroidea

June, 1883
July, 1 88 1
Sept., 1 88 1
July. 1882
June and July

Discovery Harbor..

Littleton Lsland

Discovery Harbor..
do

Soundings _.

do .

Dredging specimen ..
.Sea porcupine

....do

(THE LAIJY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

311

Inclosure to Appendix No. 91. — Invontory of collections in natural Ais/ory—Continvied.

VII.— ESKLMO REMAINS.

No. of
tag.

•3*

6521

653/
656)
657 [

588

591
596 1
597/
595
47 \
"79 J
178

5981
604/

599

166

6001

608/

607

611
170

16S
612
605

601
602

606

615
610
617
618
619

620

621
622
623

624
62s

492

216

164

182

162'

593

Kox.

II
II

H
A

No. of
.speci-
mens.

2
3

Designation.

When found.

1882
1881

1881
1882

1882
August, 1882

....do

Where found.

Remarks.

Shells and bones.

Jaw bones (Max)

Skulls of Eskimo*

Pointed bone

Bellows

By Lieutenant Lockwood.
By Private Henry.

By Sergeant Brainard ; round, and evi-
dently some implement; about 12
inches [305"""^ long.

By Sergeant Brainard; a score of frag-
ments; lichens, covereel ; mostly bone ;
" worked ; " found on " raised beach,"
alxjut 20 feet [6""] altitude.

By Lieutenant Lockwood.

■ Forming one old Eskimo sledge, com-
plete; made of wood; found at Cape
Baird, August, 1882, by Sergeants
Brainard and Israel; pliotogr.'i|)h and
descriptive data in lands of com-
manding ofticer.

Bowl of stone; found by Sergeant Brain-
ard.

By Sergeant Brainard.

By Sergeant Brainard; from narwhal
horn.

Oak.

Found floating in the straits 8 or to feet
[about 2 or 3"'] from shore; found by
Sergeant Brainard;

Bone; by Sergeant Connell.
Do.

Eskimo lamp, birch back and worked
wood ; by Serge.mt Connell.

By Sergeant Brainard.

Found about 200 feet [61'"] above sea.

Bone.

Bone; found by Dr. Pavy.

In valley southwest end of lake by
Lieutenant Cireely.

; 2 Iwne combs, fragment of bone

and wood; found at intersection of
Lake Hazen and Ruggles River.
Do.
Do.

By Private Biederbick; found at inter-
section of Lake Hazen and Ruggles
River.

By Private Whisler; found at intersec-
tion of 1 .nke Hazen and Ruggles River.

By Lieutenant (Ireely; foum at inter
section of Lake Hazen and Ruggles
River.

By Sergeant Brainard.

1 By Lieutenant (Ireely; bone; 4 pieces;
\ runners complete.

1 By Lieutenant Greely; bone; a pieces;
y runners complete.

Littleton Island

Xear Kittenbank..
Littleton Island ..

Unknown

»fear Fort Conger..

Basil Norris Bay...
Chandler Fiord

Cape Baird

Kone ami wood (great
many .specimens).

Spear head and bone...

Sledge runners "|

Part of sledge ...

Upstanders

Slat

Part of sledge

Forming one slat

Lower i>art of 179 ...
Part

A
A

A
A
A

A
A

Fragments

Oxjking lamp

Stick of bone

Spear

....do

Cai)e Baird

Piece of woml

Duplicate of 6ii_.

Top of powder-llask...

Dog "toggle"

1882
1882
1882

1882
1882
1882
1882
1882
June, 1882

....do

-...do

....do

Cayte Beechey

Proteus Point

Knife iiundle

Fragments. . .. .

Near Fort Conger..

Distant Cape

Near station ..,

....do

Lake Hazen

.-..do

....do

Sun Bay . .

A
A
A
A
A
A

A
A
A

A
A

Fragments of sledge

Part of sledge runner. . .
Fragments

Plate

Reindeer hair

Fragments...

Piece of bone lance

Knife, &c

Fragments of l)one

Comb, dog toggle, &c. . .

Piece of wood . .

Pieces of sledge runner
do

....do

... do

I^ke Hazen

....do

* Descriptive lags on each.

312 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Inclosurt to Appetutix No. 91. — Invntory of collections in natural history — Conlinued.
VII. — Eskimo remains — Continued.

No. of
tag,

161 >
168

616 1

92/

37
169

59*

227-1

228/

184I

394/

176

181

6«3
626

614
627

628
629

633
221
491

53
494

58
493
494
661

554

771)
to [

777 J

Box

No. of
spcci

Designation.

Pieces of sledge runner
Upstanders ...

Bone upstanden

Whalebone sledge slat
do

Whalebone sledge runner

Whalebone spear

Bone sledge slat

Part of same

Part of upstander

Fragments of bone and

wood.

Parts of deer horn

Fragments of bone and

wood.

Fragments

do.

When found.

June,
....do.

1882

.do.

-do.
.do.
-do.

.do.

-do.

Old skull

Piece of sledge runner.

Fragments

Piece of reindeer horn..

Piece of wood

Wood

Reindeer horn

Lignite and petrified

wood.
Fragments

r Eskimo sledge, wood; -I
I very old. /

-do.

-do....

.do....

1882

June, 1882

1882
1882
1882
1882
1882

K882

1882
1882
1882
1882
1882.

1882

June 26, 1883

Where found.

Cape Baird ..
Lake Hazen .

.'lo.
-do.

.do.
.do.

.do.

-do.

-do.
.do.

Sun Bay.

Archer Fiord.

.-.-do

Lake Hazen -
Near station
Archer Fiord.
Bellows

Lake Heintzelman.

...-do....

...do

Junction of Lake
Hazen and Rug-
gles River.

Distant Cape.

Remarks.

{Forming with 593 and 30 two runners
rompTete.
Wood; intersection of Lake Hazen and

Ruggles River.

/ Intersection of Lake Hazen and Ruggles

\ River.

Do.

{Intersection of Lake Hazen and Ruggles
River; pieces at same place; large
pine runners were found.
{Intersection of Lake Hazen and Ruggles
River.
Do.
Do.
Woo<l.
Wooden spoon, pieces of sledge, &c.

Mostly unworked.

Bone and wood.

By Sergeant Lynn.

Musk-ox or seal.

About I j^ feet [.45""] long.

Wood ; from elevation of about 700 feet

[213"].
Bone, wood, stone, and teeth; found

near Eskimo huts.

By Private Ellis; 772, 774, runners;
77'. 773. 775. wooden slats; 776
and 777, bone upstanders. Found
about 40 feet [12'"] above water-
level. Runners, x}^" by 6^" by
4' and 4' 7" [44'"™ by 140'"™ by
1.2'" by 1.4"'].

Ill i

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

313

Tuchiure to Appendix No. 91. — Inventory of collections in natural history — Continued.

VIII. — Dkikt-wood.

No. of
tag.

No. of

^Box. sjjeci-

mens.

671

«97

198

6
670

680
674
676
688
687

683
690

677
691
672

673
669

678
685
692

718

719
720

681

9
682
684
689

67s

- 679

757
754
5«7
585
495

Designation.

Large log

Drift-wood ..
Pieces of log.

When found.

August, 1882

Pieces

.do.
.do.

April, 1882

1882
1882
1882

Where found.

Ella Bay .

f Discovery Harbor.
(.St. Patrick Hay...

Near Repulse Har-
l)or.

llellows ..

....do

....do...

.do.
.do.
.do.
.do.

St. Patrick Bay..

Bellows

....do

Small piece .

Sample

.do.
-do.

..do.

Small piece .

Root

do....

Branch

Few small pieces ,

1881

1881-1882

-do.
.do.
.do.

.do.
.do.

...do

Bellows .

Near Ft. Conger..,

June 20, 1883
June lo, 1883

Sept., 1881

Remarks.

7/ 10" by 10" [239"' by 254™"']. Trunk
of tree; pine.

> Samples,

Descriptive data of log given command-
ing officer.

2' 9" by 6' [838""" by lS2n'm] root,

cedar, length and diameter.
2' 3>/2" by — » [egS-" by — *] root,

cedar.
2' 1 1" by 4" by 2" [889'""> by 102"'™

by 51"""] piece of branch, pine.
2' 3" by S" [686"™ by 127"""] branch,

pine.
I' 7" by i^" [483""" by 38"'"'] pine.
About 30 inches [762"""] sawed off the

large tree; diameter, 8|^" [216"'"']

pine.

Sun Bay

Littleton Island ...

Basil Norris Bay...

.. .do

....do...

....do

Bellows

....do

{Probably Basil f
Norris Bay. 1

Proteus Point
Near station .

i'9"l'y-»[533"

"> by — *] knot with
1 by 102"""] branch,
' by 102"""] branch.

moss on it, pine.
2' 9" by 4'' [838'"

cedar.
2' 4" by 4'' [7 II'"

cedar.
Branch 3^'by 7 j4" [ 1067""" by 190"""']

pine.
3/4' by 7" [1067"'"' by 178'""'] sample

of log, pine.
2' 5" by 4^" [737"'"' by 1 14"""] pine.
2' S'A" by 4" [749"'™ by 102"'"'] root,

pine.
2' SVi" by 6" [749™"' by 152'"'"] knot,

cedar.
2' 1 1" by \yi" [889""'' by 38"""] pine.
4' 9" by yyi" [1448""" by 82'""'] pine.
'•°B 5/^' '>y 6" [1980""" by 152""']

])ine.
•-°6 5 /^ ' l^y 6" [ 1 980"'"' by 1 5 2"'"'] pine.
2' ^Yt" by — * [749""" by — *] knot,

cedar.

I' 5" by 2yi" [432"'"' by 64"'"!] pine.

I' \" by lyi" [330"""' by 38"""] pine.

East shore Discovery IlarlHir, several

hundred feet above sea ; perhaps left

by the English. 2' 4X" by 3"

[yiyiniii by 76"'"'] pine.

Sawed off 670 disc, 3" by 9" [76"'n> by

229"'"']. ,

I' by y [305"'"' by 76"""] cedar.
«' 3k" by i{" [393""'" by 19"""] piece

of pine molding.
2' 7" by4" [787""" by 102"""] root,i)ine.
1%' by 2" [457""" by 51"'"'] pine.
It" by 2" [279""" by 51'""'] pine or cedar.
II'' by y/j" [279"'"' by 89'""'] pine.
18" by 3" [457"'"' by 76'""'] pine.

wYz" by 2" [282""" by 51 '] pine.

3|^' by n" [1067""" by 102"'"'] pine.
2>i' hy 2yi'' [762"'"' by 64'"'"] pine.
2^' by 3" [762"'"' by 76"""] pine.
2' 8X" by ~* [819""" by — •] cedar

knot.
Sergeant Brainard.
Lieutenant Greely. Piece of willow.
Do. Do.

Do. Do.

• Ominloo In original— A. W. G.

•1

314

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Incloiure to Appendix No, 91. — Inventory 0/ collections in natural history — Continued.
IX. — Rocks, shklls, fossils, and pktrikactions.

No. of

lag.

Box.

Xo.of
speci-
mens.

Designation.

When found.

Where found.

Remarks.

45
106
108
107
100
101
'30
'3«
'34
■33
«32

140
•45

146
141
«43

202

Kog.

Keg.

203

204

574

575
577

578

581

582

583

589
590
630

f'31
632

643

646 1

467

648

650 J

Keg.

666

549
663

36
552
S5>
49'
667

53
66s
658
755

756
760

'847"

A
A
A

A
A

A
A
A
E
K
I)
C
E
E
A

E
E

E
E
E

A
A
A
A
A
A

F
11

11
II
II
II
II
II
H
II
II
11
I'

I-
1-
W
W

Fossils

1882

Feilden Peninsula..
I3elluws ..... ...

2 kinds.

A few lichens on some of the rocks.

And rosin.

By .Sergeant Brainard.
I bag.

Several kinds.

Of tree and fish; altitude, 2,2(to feet
[67o>"].

Sergeant Braina^d; altitude, alwut 800
feet [244'"].

Sergeants Brainard and Gardiner; alti-
tude, 0.
Do.

.Sergeant Brainard, 800 feet [244"'].

.Sergeants Brainard and Ciardiner, repre-
resenting all the kinds in 581.

By Sergeant Rice.
Lieutenant (Ireely and [rarty.
Private Frederick.

In 3 small lots, one with a piece of rosin
by Private Frederick.

By Sergeant Brainard.

One keg full.

Sergeant Connell ; found " all along the

valley."
C:asteroi)od.

Coal, bones, wood, shells, and rocks.

By Sergeant Brainard.

Christiansen.
By Private Frederick.
Small box nearly full of coal.
Sergeant Brainard ; altitude, 800 to 1,000
feet [244'n to 305'"].

Rocki

....do

Shells

1882
1883
1882
1882
1882
1882

...do

....do

Ulackkock Vale..
do

Hcllows

....do

. .do

Kocks and 2 shells

Rocks

Shells

kocks

Kocks and fossils

Cape Delano, I

View Point,

Feilden Penin-

[ sula. J

Dellows

Rocks and shells

Shells

Apr., 1882
do

Lincoln Hay

Rocks

May, 1882
....do

Cape I<rit.innia

Lockwood Island..

Coal mine

Discovery I larbor. .

Lincoln Bay

Discovery Harl)or..
Fo.ssil Mountain

Near Cape IJaird ..

Cape Cracroft

....do

("ape Haird

Cape Cracroft

View Point

Fort Conger Creek.
Uellows.

.do.. . ..

Coal

Petrified tree

1882
Apr., 1882

Rocks

Fossils

Fossils and petrilied wood

Fossils

May, 1883

....do

June, 1883

...do

I'etrilied wood

Fossils

....do

1882

1882
June, 1882
Aug., 1882

1882

Rocks

Lignite

Fo.ssils

Caiie Cracroft

Hellows .

Lignite, &c

Shells

Fossils and petrifactions.

Rock crj'sfals

IJgnite, shells, and rosin.

Shells

June, 1883

1882
June, 1883

1881

Cape Haird

Vicinity Ft. Conger.
Bellows.

Upernivik

Lake Iia/.en

Bellows

Hlack stone

Fragments

Lignite .

do....

Stone and rock

Lake lla/.en

....do

Hone

Rocks

Lincoln Bay

Bellows

Coal mine

Pieces of coal and a bone.
Fossils .

Shells

June 14, 1883

June 20, 1883

|une, 1882
July. 1883

East shore Discov-
ery Harbor.
Bellows .

Coal

Lignite

Coal fossils

....do

Coal mine

Cape Baird

Fossils

TUE LADY PKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

315

Incloture to Appendix No. 91. — Inventory of colUctions in natural history — Continued.
IX. — Rocks, shells, fossils, and i'etri factions — Continued.

No-fBox.
tag.

Designation.

When found.

Where found.

Remarks.

860 '
870

W
W
VV

w
w
w

.... Slate..

July. 1883

do...

....do

Station

Sergeant Brainard; 1,000 feci [305™]
alH>ve tiile water; showing scratcjies,
as of glacial action.

Gathered at various times.

Piecesofrock

Stone

Cairn Hill

Mount Cartmel

Cairn Hill

....do

Station

Piece of rock

June, 1883
ilo

July 24, 1883

June,July,l883

....do

.... .Shells

X. — Horns, bonf-s, ani» skeletons.

No, of
tag.

659
660

655
224
225
654
662
64
651

724

739

722 1
723/

Box.

H
Y

T
AA

725 ! T

79S

833

837

836

83s
834

839

No, of
speci-

15
I

Name,

Skull of seal

Skull of musk-ox

Skull of walrus

Deer antlers

Musk-ox jaw Iwne

Walrus lower jaw

Seal and walrus Imnes.
Piece of reindeer horn.
Hone of large mammal

Musk-ox (hind legs) ..

Foxes

Polar hear

Wolf

Mvisk-ox head

Bird

Owls

Lower jaw of musk-ox
Reindeer antlers

do ._

When found.

1881
1882
18S1
1KS2
1S82
1881
1881
1882
August, I

882

1882

1881

1882

1882
July 20, 1883
July 20, 1883

1882
June 20, 1883
July 21,1883

Where found.

Littleton I.sland

Cape Uaird

Littleton Island

Discovery Harlwr.

Remarks.

Littleton Islan<l

Cairn Hill

KllaBay.

Uy .Scrgt. lirainard.

I specimen from lake Hazen,

Lf. Lockwood, Probably whale ; found on
west shore. Head of Archer Fiord.

Baffin Bay 1 ' 1 1 . „.

Vicinity house... [ ^'^'^''^to"*

Mt. Cartmel.
....do

St. I'atrick Bay ..
Watercourse Bay
Mt. Cartmel

Connell.
Rice.

Brainard.

Biederbick ; alraut ^ miles north of coal

mhie.
Jens.

XL — Hides and skins.

No. of
tag.

Box.

No. of
speci-
mens.

Name.

Remarks.

2
2

I
I
I

Musk-ox

Being prepared.

Small and large; collected at Distant Cape and Discovery Harbor June and
August, 1882.

Three of them in good order and condition.

Tank

Fox

Seal

Ermine

Hare skins

769
793
791
794

"i"

s
s

Seal hide

Musk-ox (bull)

Musk-ox (calf)

f'J

316

THE LADY FUANKLIX BAY EXI'EDITION.

Inclosure to Appendix No. 91, — Invtntory of coUecliom in natural history — Continued.

XII. — Miscellaneous.

Box

8S1

766

Nc). of
speci-
nieni.

Name.

. .

EggSy &'

Skua ...

Ilrent (;oose

Turnstone

Brent goose

Skua .

Turnstone .

Eider duck

Longtail duck . .

Unknown

Skua

Unknown

Ptarmigan

Turnstones

Brent goose...,

Turnstones

Snow buntinc .
do......

.do.

.do.
-do.
.do.

Nest

Red snow . ..

Entozoa of seal

Cryptogamia;

AlgK

Cryptogami* .

Unknown

I'cnisof white fox

{Ptarmigan head
Ermine head and tail.
Ptarmigan head

Eggs of dovekie

Eggs of knot

When found.

Aug., 1883
July 25,1883

June II, 1883
June 25, 1883
June 19, 1883
do

iune 34, 1883
une 32, 1883
une 24, 1883
une 20, 1883
June 28,1883
do

...do

iune 17, 1883
une 20, 1883
Tune 38,1883
July, 1881
do..

1882

July.

....do

Aug., 1882

June 8, 1883
June 10, 1883

Gizzard of knot

Egg of knot

Eggs of ptarmigan

Kggs of turnstone

Testicles of knot

Wool of Brent goose

Nest of lemming

Fcetal eggs (unknown) .

(iizzard of king duck

Ki etal eggs of tern

Fittaleggsof snow bunting

Firtal eggs of king duck

Kcttal eggs of diver

Ftctal eggs of glaucous gull.

Plant, &c

Fcetal eggs of Brentgoose.
Gizzard, iVc

Foetal eggs of Brent goose.
Ftetal eggs of ptarmigan
Shells

English record cases

Miscellaneous articles .

...do

.. do

...do

1882

1883
June, 1883

...do

June 12, 1883
June 20, 1883
June 17, 1883
do

Where found.

Discovery Harbor
.. ..do........

Near Fort Conger

...do

....do

...do

North Valley

Station ..

...do

....do

....do.

....do

Carey Island

Melville Bay

Cairn Hill

Discovery Harbor
North Valley...
Carl Ritter Bay.

Discovery Harbor
...do

...do

.do.
.do.

June 14,
June,

1883
1883

June 14, 1883
June II, 1883
June 22, 1883

Water-course Bay

Near station

Cape Baird .

Vicinity of station
...do..

...do

.do.

Remarks.

In alcohol.
Do.
Specimen added to 136.
In alcohol.

24 eggs in a box.

In alcohol.

Snow bunting ? Specimens broken.

With nest.

Do.
In alcohol with chicks inside.

Do.

Snow bunting.

Three kinds.

Female. I

i- In alcohol.
Male. J
(Fcetal eggs.)
(Fcetal eggs) and gizzard with contents ;

female.
And testicles ; male.
Broken by shot, found inside the bird.
Taken from the bird.
Do.

Found with 4 eggs.

In alcohol ; female.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
In alcohol.

Do.
In alcohol ; gizzard and contents (shrimps,

&c.) ; female ; longtail duck.
In alcohol.

Do.
Found in gizzard of male king duck.
Coppinger's [from Boat Camp]: Archer's
(from head of fiord), and I unknown.
A few small shells, fossils, pieces of drift-
wood, dog toggle (586), &c. ; each ar-
ticle labeled.

THK LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

317

Incloiure to Appfndix No. 91. — Inventory tif coltfctions in natural history — Continued.
Xn. — MiscKLLANEOL's — Continued

No. of

8j8

758
758

850

881
874

877
873
868
871
876

87a

IJox.

Name.

tlggit iS''f.— Continued.

Miscellaneous articles .

Frrlal eggs of ptarmigan..
Contents of gizzard king

(tuck.

Red snow . _

Salt formation

Shells

Liquids (vials I, 3, 4, 6, 7,

10, II).

Whisky

Brandy

Alcohol , medical

Alcohol, expedition

Discolored ice

.do.

When found.

Where found.

June II, 1883

June, 1883
July, 1883
June 17, 1883

Distant Ca|>e .

Station

...do

Remarks.

Small Imx containing 23 small vials of
flies, cater|>illars, bumble bees, cocoons,
worms, small insecU, \c., contents of
gizzard of king duck,m()ss'likc forma-
tions, sea iiorcupines,rcmainsof head of
lemming, lichens, fungi and moss, piece
of rosin— all labeled with date, &c.

Gardiner.

Found in gizzard of male king rluck.

I Lii|uids exposed at instrument shelter to
low temperatures.

Specimen by Private Schneiilcr, Scptcm
l)er, 1882, from berg near Dutch Island,
1S82.
Do.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land,

June 30, 1883.

J. B. LocKwoon,
Seconil Lieutenant Twenty-third Jn/antry, A. S. O,

Appendix No. 92. — Sergeant Brainard'' s report on Lieutenant Lockzvood'' s trip tmvards the

United States Mountain range.

Wa.shin(;ton, D. C, yune 27, 1885.

Sir : In compliance with your verbal instructions of this date, I have the honor to resjiectfully submit
the following report of a journey made by Lieut- J. B. Lockwood, Twenty-third Infantry, and myself to the
interior of Grinnell Land, in July, 1883.

Under orders from you to make a journey to the north and west of Fort Conger, to determine more
accurately the topography of the country in that direction, Lieutenant Lockwood and myself, with Privates
Henry and Biederbick as auxiliaries, lefl the station at 8.30 a. m., July 1 1, 1883.

Our equipment consisted of two blanket sleeping-bags, one rubber blanket, an alcohol lamp, snow-
shoes, and a revolver, together with provisions for six days; the whole weighing 99 pounds. These articles
were divided into four packs suitable to carry on the shoulders, and assigned to the party as follows: Lieut-
enant Lockwood, 23^ pounds; Biederbick, 24^ pounds; Henry, 261^ pounds, and myself 25 pounds.
Shaping our course in a NNW. direction, we passed between the large and small Sugar Loaves, and
ascended the high ground forming the divide between North Valley and Lake Alexandra, to an elevation
of 2,700 feet [823'"] above the sea. This divide or "hog-back," as it is frequently called, extended in the
direction which we were traveling, and owing to its great elevation our survey of the surrounding country
was greatly facilitated. Along the crest, and far down on either side, it was covered with snow to a depth
of from one to four feet [.3 to 1.2'"]. This being soft, and holding in suspension large quantities of water,

■.7jA

'■'%

', ili

' i i

318

THK LADY FRANKLIN HAY KXl'KDITION.

our |)rogrcss was rcndcrud slow and cxircmely laborious. Those o( thu party who wore no snow-shoes
would frc({uently sink to their waists in crossing places where the snow was particularly deep and ahunilantly
su[>i>lied with moisture.

The course of North Valley is i>arallel to the "hog-hack," along which we travele<l, and appeared to
terminate in a small ravine alM)ut ten miles from Discovery Harbor. This fact, however, was ascertained by
the small party under my charge, which made an excursion up this valley in September, 1881, by your orders.
Another valley, considerably larger, and separated from the head of North Valley by a narrow divitle, drains
the country to the north and discharges its waters into St. Patrick JJay. This valley was also entered by
myself and party in the autunm of 1881 and traversed for a considerable distance towards its source. In
my verbal report to you at that time, I stated substantially the same as above, but after Lieutenant Lock-
wood's return from a short trip up St. Patrick Hay Valley the same season, he (juestioned the correctness,
of my observations and conclusions regarding the course of this stream. During the last journey, however,
of which this is a description, he was convinced of the accuracy of my report and concurred fully in my
opinion, as the following extract from his field notes will testify: "North Valley Creek runs in this direction
a few miles, but soon runs out, and a stream discharging into St. Patrick Hay occupies what seems to be its
prolongation."

At 5 p. m. the lieutenant decided to camp. We had tramped fourteen miles, ami were well nigh
exhausted front the exertion of wading through the deep, soft snow.

.Selecting a bare spot among the rocks, an oasis in the desert of snow, we rolled away a few of the
largest stones and si)read down our sleeping-bags. A cup of strong tea and a few morsels of hard bread
and meat refreshed us, and with our damp clothing clinging about our shivering forms v/e retired to our
bags to secure a few hours of much needed rest.

The next morning (12th) Lieutenant Lockwood directed Henry and Uiederbick to construct a large
cairn and then to return to the station, leaving their sleeping-bag behind them for our use on the return trip.
We reduced our loads also by caching the rubber blanket, snow-shoes, and sufficient provisions to take
us back to the station. Starting at 9.45 a. m., we traveled north towards a spur or elbow-like point of the
llnite<l States range of mountains containing a large and conspicuous glacier. For the first three miles we
tramped through the deep, soft snow, alternated occasionally by mud and stones. After this the snow
became deeper and softer than before and the traveling in conseciuence w.is more difficult than ever. About
this time we crossed two deep, rocky gorges which conveyed a considerable quantity of water to the east-
ward into the main course. Climbing the north side of the last of these two gorges we gradually ascended a
dome-shaped and snow-clad mountain or "hog-back," about 3,000 feet [914'"] in elevation. Pushing on a
few miles farther wc reached the apparent termination of the divide, and descending along its slippery, rocky
sides for 1,000 feet [305"'], we w.ided knee deep across a large stream flowing from the northwest. Passing
down this stream for a short distance we reached the main water-course, the flank of which we had been
following, and camped at 4. 1 5 p. m. The distance traveled was estimated at twelve miles. In the vicinity of
our camp we found abundant traces of foxes, hares, lemmings, musk-oxen, and ptarmigan. The traces of
the musk-oxen were not recently made. We also saw several snow-buntings and heard the peculiar call of
a knot. On awakening the following morning (13th), we were startled to observe that the sky was obscured
and that the barometer was rapidly falling. Starting at 8 a. m., a brisk walk of two hours carried us to the
summit of a high ridge four miles north of camp, where we obtained a good view of the country beyond.
From this point Lieutenant Lockwood decided to return to the station, and an attempt was made to accu-
rately establish our position by a meridian altitude, but this we found impossible to do owing to the cloudy
weather which prevailed. A few sights, however, were made with a prismatic compass, and the bearing of a
few of the more important peaks as well as the glacier were obtained. These observations will be found
recorded in s/wr/ hand in one of Lieutenant Lockwood's volumes of field notes.

Iktween our position and the United States range of mountains (which was about fifteen miles away),
the country was undulating but generally level and of great elevation. The large glacier previously men-
tioned is .in offshoot of the sea of ice which appears to cover the summit as well as the eastern slope of this
range. The peaks protrude through the ice-cap, if it may so be called, and show to a considerable height
above it, in many places devoid of snow. With the powerful telescope which we carried with us we were
enabled to scan closely the face of the huge glacier, and to determine its size and peculiarities with a toler-
able degree of accuracy. At the point of entrance to the valley its front was at least six miles across, and

«dir<^-

THE LADY FIIANKLIN BAY EXI'EDITION.

319

the vertical wall or face from loo to 300 feet [30 to cji"'| hij{li. I iKaitate in making the above assertion, as
it seems almost incre(lil)lc, but in justice to Lieutenant Lockwood I think this fact shoulil be stated. We
agrred on the height of this wall only after lon^ and careful scrutiny. A dark line extending alonj; the base
of the wall we surmised to be its terminal moraine. One | eak taller and more < ()nsi)i( uous than the otiiers,
and standing alone in the mrr lic f^lacr, was named Mount Arthur Kugene. 'i'he elevation of this range is
very great. Tiie ridge on which wc were standing was about 2,500 feet [y^JJ"') above the sea, and the
summit of the range towering above us must certainly iiave been as much more above us.

The country to the eastward of our |>osition was irregular, and much broken by ravines leading into
the main water-course. To the west, for a ilistance of about ten miles, the country appeared about the
same as to the northward, but beyond that point high ground (up|)arently a table-land) obstructed our
view.

Building a small cairn in which a record and our remaining provisions were deposited, we started back
at 11.45 *• "'•' retracing our steps to the last camp for our sleeping-bag.

Rocrossing the large stream or river of which I have previously spoken, and ascending its precipitous
bank until near the snow-line, we halted for luncii and a few hours' rest. Abandoning the slecjiing-bag and
provisions, nothing was left for us to carry except the spirit lamp and instruments. With this comparatively
light load we pushed towards our first camp as rapidly as the nature of the route would permit. At 8 p. m.
we reached the camp and found the etiuipment and provisions which we had cached in excellent order.
Dark, threatening clouds had rolled u|) from the eastern horizon, indicating that an unusual atmospheric
disturbance was in progress in that direction. No storm, however, followed, although one had been clearly
indicated. This was a great relief to us as we had no protection against the elements except such as could
be furnished by a thin blanket sleeping-bag.

On the morning of the 14th we started homeward at 8.50, first caching the snow-shoes, sleeping-bag,
and a few cans of fresh meat. We reached Fort Conger at 2 p. m. in good health, but greatly fatigued
from the severe exertion which we had undergone.

I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

D. L. Brainard,
Sergeant, Signal Corps, U. S, Army.

Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

/"///// Cavalry, U. S, A., Acting Signal Officer and Assistant,
Commanding Lady Franklin Bay Expedition,

Appendix No. 93. — Orders to Lieutenant Lockivood to receive medical stores from Dr. Pavy.

Fort Cdwger, Grinnell Land, yuly 9, 1883.

(Orders No. 3.)

Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Pavy, having officially declared his unwillingness to renew his contract
with this expedition, will transfer to Second Lieut. James B. Lockwood, A, S. O., the medical stores
and supplies for which he is responsible. He will also turn over to that officer, not later than July 19, 1883,
in a sealed package, his diary. By diary will be understood all notes and observations made durinc; this
expedition, as well as memoranda of current events. Similar action will be taken regarding ui collections
of any kind made since July 20, 1881, which will be packed, boxed, and addressed to th*; (,' !ef Signal
Officer. Clerical and other assistance will be furnished as needed.

A. W. Greely,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavolry, A. S. O., and Assistant,

Commanding the Expedition,
A. A. Surgeon O. Paw,

U. S. Army,

Appendix No. 95.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Appendix No. 94. — Letter of Dr. Pavy asking the detail of Stcivard BiedcrMck.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, yuly 9, 1883.
Sir: I have the honor to respectfully request that for a week, beginning the loth of July, the help of
my hospital stew^nl (or of the man that, since the beginning of the expedition, has been chosen to perform
that duty) .should be allowed to me, for the complete and detailed inventory of my medical stores.

1 will also respectfully recjuest to be officially informed if it is or not the privilege of a surgeon serving
with a military command to be, on his demand, furnished with the assistance of his hospital steward, or of
the enlisted men detailed for that duty.
I am, sir, respectfully yours.

Octave Paw,
Actg. Assf, Surgeon, U. S. Army.
To the Commanding Officer.

-Reply of Lieutenant Greely to Dr. Pavy''s request for detail of Steward
Bicdcrbick.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, fuly 9, 1883.
Sir : I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of this date, asking the undivided
services of Private Biederbick for a week from July 10, to make an inventory of your medical stores.

You are advised, as you have already been verbally, that Private Biederbick is under orders for two
days' field service, and that he will he at your command from the \i.*\\ instant.

The inventory of your stores cannot possibly require more than two days' labor, if they have been
jtroperly cared for, and I cannot see that your [• interest will] suflfer by the postponement.

As you are to officially abandon this expedition within ten days, I see no reason why your question
shouUl be answered, particularly as it bears ["and improperly] on my action in this matter.

I have only to invite your attention to the fact that there is no hospital steward connected with this
expedition, nor have you ever requested one. Private Bieder bick has .issisted you in that capacity iox two
years without interfering with his other duties, and the interests of the service ['do not demand a change].
1 am, sir, respectfully yours,

A. W. Greelv, '

First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O, and Asst., Commanding Expedition.
Actg. Asst. Surgeon O. Paw,

U. S. Army,

Appendix No. 96. — iMter of Dr. Pavy''s, dated fuly 18, i88j.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, fuly 18, if S3.
Sir: My second contract, expiring on the 20th of this month, I wish to respectfully express my desire
not to have it renewed.

As I do not intend to remain in the service and, as (according to your view) our work will, in the
short space of a month or two, be virtually ended by the arriv-il of a ship in Discovery Harbor, or by
our reaching her in Kennedy Channel, my action is of minor importance.

As a matter of course I offer my services to the expedition, and declare myself willing and ready to
perform the same duties as in the past; slill devoting myself entirely to the wellfare {sii\ and success of
our undertaking.

It will be well understood by me, that I shall not consider the Department as being indebted for any
remuneration, .and that all expenses incurred by my living will remain to my charge.
I .1111, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

Octave Paw,
Act. Asst. Surgeon^ U, S. Army.
To the CoMMANDiNo Officer.

* Inteqjolations from letter press copy.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Appendix No. 97. — Answer to letter re/erred to in Appendix No. g6.

321

Fori- Concier, Grinnki.i. Land, yuly 19, 1883.
Sir: I have the honor to acknowledge tlie receipt of your communication of July 18, wherein you
reiterate your unwillingness to renew your contnact as acting assistant surgeon, U. S. Army. I cannot concur
in your opinion that such action is of minor importance.

Whether this expedition remains a month or a year without an official medical adviser, timf is unim-
portant, the moral aspects important. Ship or no ship, retreat or no, you joined this expediton under a
moral obligation to serve during its continuance, and you well know that the Surgeon-Cieneral never would
have sanctioned your contract had he [• surmised] even the possibility of your quitting, under any circum-
stance, a command situated without the confines of the civilized world.

I have the honor to advise you that should you at any time consent, I should deem it my duty to renew
your corttract as before.

I am, sir, very respectfully yours,

A. VV. Greelv,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O., and Assisrant,

Commanding Expedition.
Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Paw,

U. S. Army,

Appendix No. 98. — Dr. Pavy's refusal to turn over his diary.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, yuly 19, 1883.

Sir: In conformity with the order of July 9th, I h; * transferred my medical property and the specimens
of natural history gathered by myself and addressed to the Chief Signal Othcer.

As you are aware, all my private gathering (except the flowers) were, in the first days of June, turned
over with the general collections.

As to the question of diary, etc., I will say that to the best of my ability I have furnished you with all my
personal views and official opinions by reports, when desired.

My journal, destitute of any official value, is a mere record of events, hypothesis, and reminscences
[si(], closely mingled with personal and intimate thoughts synthetised [sic] from detached notes and
reduced into letters of an entirely private character, for the only use of my family, but on our return to
the United States, if any personal opinion concerning events, or even my appreciation of physical, natural,
medical, geographical, etc., etc., phenome:ia are of any interest to the Chief Signal Officer, I will consider
myself honored to be allowed to put at his disposal any extracts of my polar journal and Greenland notes,
as well as any of the general Arctic information collected by myself during sixteen years of continued
Arctic studies.

I am, sir, respectfully yours.

Octave Pavy.

To the Commanding Officer.

Appendix No. 99. — Letter transmittinir charges to Dr. Pavy.

Fort Congep, Grinnell Land, yuly 19, 1883.

Sir : I have to herewith transmit to you copy of charge and specifications this day preferred against
you, and to inform you th.it the originals have been forwarded to the Adjutant-General of the Army.

The legal results of this action prevent the termination of your term of service with this day as con-
templated by you, but retains you in the Army awaiting trial by a general court-martial.

I am, respectfully, yours,

A. W. CJreelv,

First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Lady Franklin Bay E.xpedition.
Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Paw, U. i>. Army.

• Interpolation from letter-press copy. — A. W. G,
H. Mis. 393 21

322

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Charge and specifications against Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Fa,vy, U. S. Army.

Charge. — Disobedience of orders.

Specification ist. In this that he, Acting, Assistant Surgeon O. Pavy, U. S. Army, having been directed
by orders No. 3, dated Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, July 9, 1883, to turn over to Second Lieutenant James
B. Lockwood, Twenty-third Infantry, A. S. O., his diary, did fail and refuse to obey such order.
This at Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, July 19, 1883.

Specification 2d. In this that he. Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Pavy, U. S. A., having been verbally
ordered by First Lieutenant A. W. Greely, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant, commanding, to turn over
within two hours his diary to Second Lieutenant James B. Lockwood, Twenty-third Infantry, A. S. O., did
positively refuse to obey said order.

This at Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, July 19, 1883.

Specification ^d. In this that he, Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Pavy, U. S. A., having been ordered in
arrest by First Lieutenant A, \V. Greely, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant, commanding, did refuse to
obey said order, and so refused until Lieutenant Greely called for a guard to enforce it, when he. Acting
Assistaiit Surgeon O. Pavy, said : " I accept the arrest physically but not morally."
This at Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, July 19, 1883.

A. W. Greely,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.
Witnesses :

First Lieutenant A, W. Greely,

Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant.
Second Lieutenant James B. Lockwood,

Twenty-third Infantry, A. S. O.

Appendix No. 100. — Letter limiting Dr. Pavy^s hounds while in arrest.

Fort Conoer, Grinnell Land, yuly 19, 1883.
Sir: Your order of arrest this day made will confine you 10 your private quarters except the times
needful for meals, personal offices, and such exercise as you judge requisite for health. Exercise will be
taken within one mile of the astronomical observatory.
Very respectfully, yours,

A. W. Greely,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant, Commanding the Expedition.

Acting Assistant Surgeon O. Pavy, U. S. Army.

Appendix No. ioi. — Order for the abandonmeut of station at Fort Conger.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, yuly 28, 1883.
Orders No. 5.
In case of the non-arrival of a vessel by August 9, 1883, this station will be abandoned and a retreat
southward by boats to Littleton Island will be attempted.

Sixteen pounds of personal baggage will be allowed to each officer and eight pounds to each man.

A. W. Greely,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,
. Commanding the Expedition,

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

323

Appendix No. 102. — List of commissary subsistence stores abandoned at Fort Conger^ Grinnell

iMndy August 9, i8Sj.

Articles.

Apples, 3-lb. cans cans.

Asparagus do.

Allspice lbs.

Bacon do.

Beef, salt. bbls.

Beef, extract of, 2-lb. cans cans.

Hard bread lbs,

Beans, black. do.

Beans, baked, 3-lb. cans cans.

Butter lbs

Corn-meal, 14-lb. tins tins

Coffee, Rio lbs

Coffee, Java do.

Chocolate, McCobb's do.

Chocolate, Baker's do.

Cinnamon do.

Cloves . _do.

Eggs, condensed cans.

Extract celery bottles.

Gelatine, Swinburn's packets.

Gelatine, Nelson's do.

Ginger lbs.

Hominy (tins) do.

Hops 1 do.

Currant jelly cans.

Lard, 5-lb. cans lbs.

Milk, i-lb. cans cans

Mustard.. lbs

Quantity.

30
•3

1,079

114

9.514

688
116

33
8

7SO

57
u6>4

'5 i

2 I

aK 1
104 \

7 I

50 !

«3

375

176

Articles.

Moloitses . galls.

Mutton extract cans.

Nutmegs ozs.

Oatmeal lbs.

Onions cans

Pork bbls

Peaches, evaporated lbs.

Peaches, preserved jars

Pepper, black lbs

Pepper, Chili do

Pepper, Tobasco bottles

Pickle.s, s.iiir-kraut, ^-bbl-kegs...kegs

Pickles, onion.s, io-g.ill. kegs do

Potatoes, 2j-i-ll). cans cans.

Preserved ilamsons, 2-lb. cans . . .do

Rhubarb do

Salt lbs

Salt, table, 3-lb. bags bags

.Sauce, cranberry, 2-lb. cans cans

.Soup, ox-tail do

Soup, mock-turtle do

Tea, green, gunpowder lbs

Tomatoes, 3-lb. cans . . cans

Vinegar galls

Tobacco, plug lbs

Castile soap cakes

Pipe-stems, Weichsel .No

Quantity.

160

42
"43

2im

75
26

3>i

4
II

710

>.277i«

45
281

70
"5

'5
174
360

ill !>

il l!
- I '

1.1

I! ill

324 THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Appendix No. 103. — Medical Reports.

Fort Congkr, Grinnei.l Land, March 4, 1882.

Sir: I have the honor to submit to you the substance of my weekly verbal reports regarding the health
of the command, since its arrival at Fort Conger.

August. The health has been excellent during the month of August.

After landing, lime juice has been issued to the men at the dose of half an ounce three times a week.

September. During the month of September the health has been very good, excepting the case of Sergt.
Rice, who when travelling with me, from Lincoln Bay, was seized with inflaniatory \su-\ rheumatism and re-
mained under my treatment for ten days.

During this month the use of lime juice has been gradually increased to the dose of one ounce daily.

October. In the month of October the health of the command was very good, and no signs of scurvy
had been noticed. *

Pvt. Long (cook since we landed) was relieved from duty the 7th, antl during two weeks remained
under treatment for animia [an?emiaj.

During the month daily doses of lime juice were issued.

November. Except a case of frost-bitten toe, and a few minor complaints, the health has been good.

l>aily doses of an ounce of lime juice were issued.

No signs of scurvy have yet appeared.

December. During the month of December I have not found any symtoms \su\ of scurvy, but cases of
animia [aniemia] & dyspepsia came frequently under my care ; otherwise the health has been good.

Sergt. Gardiner has met with an accident (contracted in line of duty) which resulted in a fracture of the
lower extremity of the left leg.

From the 15th to the middle of January we have issued daily rations of can-fruit [.t/VJ, which I think,
with the use of iron and tonics, have produced good results.

yanuary. From the middle of January the general state of the health has improved. During the
first two weeks in the month I have found in one of the observers signs of great animia |am£mia| borilering
perhaps on scurvy. But after a week, he was able to resume his work.

The only positive but slight premonitory symtoms \sic\ of scurvy observed this winter were in the case of
the Eskimo dog driver Jens Edward, who since December was laboring under a great despondency of mind.
At the beginning of February he had entirely recovered.

The daily dose of lime juice was issued during the month.

February, In February the health of the command was excellent, and signs of animia [anaemia] and
dyspepsia were less numerous than in the previous month.

Lime juice has been regularly issued.

No signs of scurvy have been noticed.

During the winter the use of fresh beef, can-fruits \sic\ and vegetables have been instrumental in the pres-
ervation of our health.

I would call your attention to the fact that the command is generally affected (of dift'erent degrees) with
chronic bronchitis.

I would therefore respectfully advise, that, as soon as possible, measure \sk\ should be taken to prevent
the escape of deleterious gas from the stoves from both rooms.
I am, very respectfully, your obt. servant,

Octave Paw,
Act. Asst, Surgeon, U. S. A,

[•To the Commanding Officer.]

*A(Ulrcss omitted in original. — A. W. G,

*^*immmimmmmm

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

325

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, February 28M, 1882.
Sir: In answer to your request oJ the 26th of February I will respectfully say, that with three excep-
tions the enlisted men of this expedition are to-day physically fit for spring sledging, if properly clothed and
if not overworked and not exjjosed to the evil effect of too low temperature.

The three enlisted men excepted are Ser^^t. Ganiingr— convalescent from a fracture of the left leg.
Serg/, CVww— easily affected by cold feet.

J^if, Bender — lungs are liable to be affected by exposure to cold.
I am, very respectfully, your obt. servant.

Octave Paw,
Act, Asst. Suri^eon, U, S. A.
[• To the Commanding Officer.]

C. _ ' - ' .

Fort Conoer, Grinnei.i. Land, March 4, 1882.
Sir : In answer to your letter of the first of March, I have the honor to submit to you my advise \sic\ as
to the nutritive value of the aliments that arc to compose the sledge rations.

I believe, the quantity and nature of the food, that you have mentioned in your letter, to be very healthy
for the sledging parties, that you intent [sic] to sent[^/<] out in the spring.

The only suggestion that 1 could make would be to replace the 24 oz baked beans by 12 oz baked
beans and 12 o/, of meat or jicnnnican, as a ration.

I am, very respectfully, your obt. servant,

Octave Paw,
Act. Asst. Siirf;eon, U. S, A.
[• To the Commanding Officer,]

Fort Concer, Grinnell Land, March \ith, 1882.
Sir: In answer to your letter of the i6th of March, in which you have given me my instructions for
a journey over the polar sea, north of Grinnell Land, I have the honor to state, at your request, that the
health of the command is now good, and that we have no reason to anticipate sickness.
I am, very respectfully, your obt. servant.

Octave Paw,
Act. Asst. Surgeon, U. S. A.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, August 1st, 1882.
Sir : Since my last sanitary report the health of the command has generally been gooil. No symptoms
of scurvy were detected, but cases of animia [an.'emia] and derangement of the digestive organs have at
times been noticed.

In the first days of March, Pvt. Bender was confined to the bed with broncho pneumonoia [pneumonia]
and Pvt. Long came under my care for haemoptysia [hasmoptysis], (spitting of blood). At the end of March
Pvts. Connell and Ellis suffered of superficial frost bites.

In July G. W. Rice sprained his left foot, but at this date he has resumed his work.
During the spring the command has suffered but little of [from] snowblindness.
Since February a daily dose of lime-juice has been regularily taken.
I am, very respectfully, your obt, servant.

Octave Pavy,
Act. Asst. Surgeon, U. S. A.
To the Commanding Officer.

,t- if

*A<ldress oniittetl in ori(;inal. — A. W. G.

■ 3 I

li I

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" ! ■ »

ini

326

THE LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Ft. Conger, Grinnell Land, Se//, 20th, 1882.
Sir : During the month of August the health of the command has been good, except in few instances,
where I have found derangement of the digestive organs and signs of animia [anaemiaj. The daily dose
of lime juice has been regularily [regularly] issued.
I am, very respectfully, your obt. servant.

Octave Paw,
Act. Asst. Surgeon, U. S. A.
To the Commanding Officer.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, October 6th, i88a.
Sir : During the month of September, with the exception of a few minor complaints, the health of the
command has been good.

In answer to your order of Sept. 30th, 1882, " to submit at the earliest practicable moment a detailed
report as to the health of the individual members of this command," I will state that, at this date, the
health of: •

Sergt. Israel is good at present, but may need special attention at times.
" Rice, health good.
" Jewell " good.

" Ralston's health is good at present, but may need special attention during the dark days.
" Gardiner. On this date the health of Sergt. Gardiner is good, but will certainly need special
attention this winter, as scurvy would, in his case, in all probability, be accompanied with disunion of the
fracture sustained last December.

Moreover, he lias since a long time been periodically under my care for anoemia [anaemia] and derrange-
ment [derangement] of the digestive organs. Since I mentioned, in his case, the necessity of exercise, I have,
with satisfaction seen him take (what I consider the best and healthiest of exercise) a daily walk.
Sergt. Brainard, health good.
" Connell " good.

" Cross. The health of Cross is apparently good, but I would recommend that he should not be
sent in the field this fall and winter.

health good.

good. '

good. y

good,
good,
good.

good. . .

good.

Long and Bender. — The health of Long and Bender is at present comparatively good. Since early in
the fall of 1 88 1, they have both been repeatedly under my care, one for debility and the other for weakness
of the lungs. 1 have verbally informed you, last spring, of ray desire to see them sent home, had a ship
reached Discovery Harbor in the summer of 1882.

I will strongly reiterate the recommendation made last spring that, unless absolutely necessary, these
two men should not be sent in the field this fall.

Pvt. Ellis. The health of Ellis is good, but he has repeatedly complained of being unable to perform
long marches on jiccount of an injured foot. The man must certainly, at a time anterior to the departure
of this command, met with some accident which has altered the shape of the left inferior extremity. But,
how far the effect of the injury, can now, at times, and under prolonged or violent exercise, be still manifest,
I am unable to answer.

Corp. Saler [Salor],

" [Sergeant] Ellison [Elison],
Pvt. Henury [Henry],

" Frerick [Frederick],

" Linn,

" Schneider,

" Whistler,

" Biederbick,

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

327

Jens (Esk.), health good.

Frederik, " " jiood.

Such is, at this day, the state of the health of this command.

As to the prospects, in the future, I cannot foretell. We are only on the threshold of a second winter;
and our situation, without precedent, has been concidered [«V], by eminent medical aut^lorities, as one of
great uncertanty [sk] and danger.

Moreover, as our dietetic condition must, by necessity, be different from what it was the previous winter,
the prospects are thereby far from favi^rably increased.

The variety of our diet is reduced ; we are (com|)ared to the original plan) already under reduced rations
of some articles highly conducive to health; and to a great extent deprived of preserved fresh vegetables.

I ha.e mentioned .ibove, the few special cases in which it would be advisable to put some restriction
as regard to the field duties. If similar measures become necessary for other members of the command, I
will advise you when they arise.

In regard to "the points of sanitary precaulion," 1 will state that the change of stove pipes has been
highly beneficial, by stopping the emenation [emanation | of deleterious gas, exceedingly injurious during the
past winter. I should recommend that, as far as j)racticai)le, a moderate temperature should be kept in oui
room; also, that a quit [quietj place of repos |repose| siiould bee [bej chosen for the observers who have
been on duty during the night. To obtain, in the men's ([uarters, during the day, (juitness f(juietness] suffi-
cient for the rest of individual members, woulil be taxing too heavily the general mterest, and thereby inter-
fere with the expansion of moderate merriment, an element so necessary to the promotion of health.

I think it advisable that, in view of a retreat so far considered by you as certain, the men, specially
those employed this winter and fall in field work, should be well clothed and that special attention should
be paid to appropriate foot and hand gear. Serious accidents would perhaps, as in the case of Dr. Kane,
encumber and even endanger our retreat.

I should now suggest the propriety of having the leather boots set aside.

I could not /CO stron^^ly recommend that, without it being ordered except in special cases, the habit of
daily walks (with all due restrictions dictated by prudence) should be encouraged during the last days of
light. The heavy outside work is happily of rare occurrence or necessity. Compulsatory exercise, in my
opinion is certainly not as profitable to the health as a voluntary and recreative one.

The general hygeianic \sic\ regulations established last winter are appropriate and can be with advantage
maintained for the present. If I discover in the future any points to be changed, I will at once inform you.

At this date, I have no case under my care for which special diet is required.

During the month of September daily doses of lime juice have been issued.

The last paragraph of your communication orders, that " in case even of a suspicion of scurvy a full and
detailed report will be made at once in writing." Scurvy being a disease of very insidious nature, and its
primary symptoms resembling closely those of many arctic complaints as anoemia [anaemia] rheumatism,
etc., etc., differential diagnostic need, " in initio," some reserve. In many instances I am convinced that
arctic scurvy is a condition incident to an aniniic [antemic] condition, in which it is difficult to state the
precise time at which it assumes characters distinctive enough to be called scurvy. You can therefore under-
stand, that a suspicion, being only a mental process of investigation entirely personal to the mind nf the
investigator, no practicioner [practitioner] will found an opinion on it alone. My attention is unremittingly
on the qui vive; and as soon as in any case I will have grouped enough symptoms for a diagnosis of
incipient scurvy, I will at once advise you by writing.

I cannot answer to the paragraph of your order refering [i/V] to the " names of all men for whom a special
diet is considered desirable," before all the fresh meat is secured at the post. I will also be oblige \sic\ to ex-
amine the list of commissary stores remaining, so as to be able to decide on what I can at present recom-
mend without taxing the future. I deem it of the highest importance, even of absolute necessity to be
informed of your project concerning our future stay in the arctic, as well as your plans and means of escape.
My stock of medicines (very incomplete and even absolutely deficient in essential drugs) is very much reduced
specially in stores that, in the future, I may be called on to use the most often. Your plans will be in this
emergency entirely my ^i^uide as to my divers expenditures at present and my reserve ibr the future.

I am, very respectfully, your obd. servant,

Octave Pavy.
To the Commanding Officer.

Above report received open by the hand of Pvt. Schneider. — A. W. Greelv.

I '

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328

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.
H.

Fort Conoer, Grinnei.l Land, December ^th, 1882.
Sir: During the months of October and November without exception, the health of the command has
been excellent.

No signs of scurvy or of any epidemical diseases have been detected. *

The customary dose of lime juice has been regularly issued.
t have the honor to be, very respectfully, your obt. servt..

Octave Paw,
Act, Asst. Surgeon, U. S. A.
To the CoMMANDiNc. Officer.

I-

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, yanuary \th, 1883.
Sir: During the month of December the health of the party was generally good.
The loss of appetite has been more or less general, but especially with Linn, Frederick, and the two
Greenlanders.

Bender was again under my care for pain in the chest ; Long and Frederick for slight soreness of the
mouth, and Biederbick for rheumatism.

Lime juice has been regularly issued, except on Christmas eve.
No signs of scurvy or of any epidemic disease have been noted.

I am, very respectfully, your obt. servant, '

Octave Pavy,
Act. Asst. Surgeon, U. S. A.
To the Commanding Officer.

Ft. Conoer, Grinnell Land, February t,th, 1883.
Sir: Thehealthof the command during the month of January, has been generally good. No disease of
any contagious or epidemical character have [sic\ made their \sic\ appearance and no symptoms of scurvy
have been detected.

Daily doses of lime juice were issued.
Sergt. Israel, health good.
" Rice,

" Jewell, " "

" Ralston, health apparently good, but this year seemed to be very easily affected by cold.
" Gardiner, health good.
" Brainard, " "
" Connell, " " but often complains of rheumatism.

" Cross, health good.

Corp. [Sergeant] Ellison [Elison], " "

" Saler [Salor], " "

Pvt. Fredericks,

" Ellis,

" Henry, " " but at times complained of rheumatism.

" Linn,

" Schneider,

" Whistler, «i «

" I

health

good

((

i; ::

***«■

TUE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

329

Pvt. Riederbick, frequently under care for rheumatism.

" Hender has l)een in the beginning of January sufficiently affected to be carried on the sick list.
Complying with your instruction I would state, I was in need during the month of digitalis, cod liver
oil, and generally of tonics.

I am, very respectfully, your obd. servant,

Octave Paw,
Act. Asit. Surgeon, U. S. A,
To the Commanding Officer.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, March j^rd, 1883.
Sir: During the month of February, with the exception of a few cases of muscular rheumatism, the
health of the command has been good.

Pvt. Render has been at times under my care, but at this day his health is relatively good.
Pvt. Long has recovered from an attack of rheumatism with effusion in the knee.
The ordinary dose of lime juice has been regularly issued. No symptoms of scurvy have been detected.
I am, very respectfully, your obt. servant.

Octave Paw,
Act. Asst. Sutgeon, U. S. A.
To the Commanding Officer.

Fort Conger, Grinnell LMiv, Apn7 3rd, 1883.

Sir: During the month of March, the general health of the command has been good; but as I have
stated in my communication of March 9th, our powers of endurance (compared with the previous spring)
have, I believe, decreased.

Sergt. Gardiner. — During the last days of March Gardiner has suffered with slight tenderness of the
gums, but without any symptoms of scurvy.

Sergt. Ralston. — The general state of the health of Kalston has not been very good during the past
month. His po'""' '^f endurance seemed to have been less this winter. He has also suffered of tenderness
of the gums, but out symptoms of scurvy.

Corp. Saltr [Saior]. — Since the first days of March, and for two weeks, Saler [Salor] has been under
my care for general debility.

Corp. [Sergeant] Ellison [ElisonJ. — Ellison [Elison] started in the field the loth of March, his health
being apparently good, but returned the 14th, affected with general debility and derangement of the digestive
organs.

Pvt. Bender has again at times been under my care.

Pvt. Long\as,, in the first days of March, been relieved from duty for a few days an account of inflamation
\sic\ of the throat.

I should recommend that unless absolutely necessary Sergt. Cross, Pvts. Long and Bender should not
be send \sic\ in the field.

The daily doses of lime juice have been regularly issued.

No symptoms of scurvy have been detected.

I am, very respectfully, your obd. servant,

Octave Pavy,
A. A. Surgeon, U. S. A.

To the Commanding Officer.

330

THK LADY KItANKLIN BAY KXI'KIHTION.

Ft. CoNr.F.R, GRiNNEt.i. Land, April yith, 1883.

Sir: In answer to your request of March aStli,* I liave tlie honor to state that tlie health of tl»e com-
niand for the fiscal year ending June 30th. 18S2, has l)eiii as follows.

In August the health was excellent.

!n September it remained very good, except in tlie caseofSer^t. Rice who suffered with inHammatory
rheumatism and remained under treatment for ten days.

During Octoher the sanitary state was very good.

In November the health has been good with the exception of a few minor complaints. In this month
Sergt. (lardiner met with an accident of a serious nature, (fracture of the lower extremity of the leg).

During December, .aniemia [an;vmiaj and derrangement [derangement | of the digestive organs as well
as lironchities [l)ronchitis] have been frecpiently observed. Sergt. Rice was incapacitated for duty the 13th,
having met with a severe contusion of the left shoulder.

From the middle of January the general state of the health has improved.

During this month I have found in Sergt. Ralston signs of gre.at antemia [an.tmia) bordering perhaps
on scurvy.

The only positive but slight symptoms of scurvy observed this winter were in the case of the F.skimo
Jens Kdward, who since December, was Laboring under a great desjOTudency of the mind. Me has not
been incapacitated for duty.

In February the health of the command was good, and the signs of dyspepsia and anoema [anaemia |
were less numerous than in the previous month.

During the winter, and especially at its end, the command was generally affected with chronic bron-
chities [bronchilisj. Until the end of the fiscal year of 1882, with the exception of individual cases of
anoemia [ana;mia| and derrangement [derangement [ of the digestive organs, the general health of the party
has been good.

In the first days of March I'vt. liender was confined to the bed by a slight attack of broncho pneu-
monia and Pvt. Long came under my care for s|)itting blood. Pvt. KIlis was relieved from duty in March
for su|)erficial frost bite of the foot, and in April Sergt. Connell, for the same cause.

Pvt. Biederbick was confineil to the bed for general debility in tlie month of April.

During the spring the command has suffered but little of snowblindness.

The stores furnished by the Medical Department have generally been found of excellent quality ; the
supply of instruments very complete, but for the books, I should like to have been supplied with more recent
editions.

As requested by you, I give a list of some of the drugs generally indispensable in the practice of med-
icine, and of which none has been furnished me.

For the deficiance [deficiency | of medicine generally considered useful or necessary to practice, the Med-
ical Department at home can from invoices form her own judgment.

List of medicines generally considered as indispensable.

Cod liver oil,
Hyoscyamus,
Strychnia,

Digitalis,
Nux vomica,
Veratrum viride.

List of men that have been incapacitated for duty.

Rice, inflammatory rheumatism. Sept, 8th; relieved for 10 days; contusion of the left shoulder Dec. 13th

returned to duty Jan, 3rd.
Ralston. — Ancemia [anaemia] Jan 6th ; relieved of duty about one week. Conjunctivitis Jan. 8th; relieved

one day.

*The order requiring this report is referred to on page 42.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION

331

Gardinet. — Fracture of the lower extremity of the left leg, Nov. 30th.

Conntll, — Rheumatical attack Sept. nth; relieved for one day. Anccmia [anaemin] Dec. 8th: relieved

three days. Frost bitten foot Apl. 7th ; relieved until Apl. a 5th.
Ellison [ElisonJ. — Face burned by explosion of gasoline Nov. loth ; relieved for five days.
Ellis. — Uiarrh(JBa March igth ; one day relieved. Frost bitten toe Mch. asth ; returned to duty April 23rd.
Whistler. — Affection of the sexual organ Oct. 12th; relieved four d.iys. Frost bitten toe .Sept. 1 1 ; rtiievid

for two days.
Biederhick — Frost-bite Nov. 7th; relieved for twenty days. General debility 25111 Apl.; returned to duty

4th May.
Schneider. — Sore throat Nov. 29; relieved two days. Bronchities [bronchitis] with dyspepsia 1 )«•<:. 6lh ;

relieved two days.
Long. — Spitting of blood March 4th ; relievefl three days. Anoemia [ansemia] Oct. 9th ; returned to duty

Oct. 1 6th.
Bendep .—Oct. 22nd, relieved untd Oct. 30th, for pain in the chest. Burn of the hand Jan. 17th to 19th.

Broncho pneumonia March ist to 6th.
Henry. — Attack of rheumatism April 6th; resumed duty April nth.
I am, very respectfully, your obt. servant.

Octave Paw,
A. A, Surgeon, U, S. A.

To the Commanding Officer.

;( i

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, May 5, 1883.

Sir: During the month of April the general health of the command has apparently been good.

The inconvenience derived from the need of fires during the nights was felt, and if it has not been the
cause of sickness it has certainly not been conducive to health. Any hardships that can be dispensed with,
or any comfort that can be procured is in these latitudes (especially after a second winter) eminently influ-
ential in helping to keep the state of the health at or above par.

The experience of our party this spring has confirmed the general rule, th.at after a second winter spent
in a high northern latitude, men are less capable of withstanding the hardships of arctic work; physical
strength is notably reduced, and the body, far from becoming endured [inured] to cold and exposure, is on
the contrary, less prepared to resist its effects.

The ordinary doses of lime-juice have been regularly issued during the month. No symptoms of scurvy
have been detected.

I will ask to be allowed (the 20th of this month or about) to undertake a journey in the interior and
around Lake Hazen. I think that it would be interesting to study there the effects of glacier action, past
and present, as well as the geological formation of this range of mountains.

Although I am doing the functions of naturalist I do not lay any claim to the title, but years ago in
the Alps and in Greenland during my stay of i88o-'8i, I have studied this question practically.

Moreover, the journey would perhaps contribute to the advancement of arctic zoology in our efforts
to establish the fact, or to disprove the belief concerning the wintering of musk-oxen in Grinnell Land, and
especially at or in the neighborhood of Lake Hazen.

During this trip musk-oxen could probably be killed, as the neighborhood of the lake has been con-
sidered by us as the best resort for game.

I am, very respectfuV.y, your obt. servant,

Octave Paw,
Actg. Assl. Surgeon, U. S. Army.

To the Commanding Officer. ♦ v

* ,

832

TlIK liADV KKANKIiliV HAY KXI'KIUTION.

Fort Conoer, Orinnf.i.l Land, yi/nf 4/,), 1883.

Sir: With the exception of indivichial cases durinj; the month of May, the health of the party has
generally been good, but (leranj^enients of the digestive r)rgans have been more freipient and more general
(not of a serious character) than at any time since the reappearance of the sun.

Sergt. Ralston. — During the winter the health of Sergt. Ralston has fiequendy needed to be under a
course of tonic treatment. Since the spring it had improved, but after our supply of musk-ox meat had
been exhausted • it began to fail.

The 29th of May my attention was directly called to him for soreness of the moUth and gums, com-
plicated with ragged purple patches at the time, small, but having tendency to enlarge; the functions of the
digestive organs were below par, and the bowels were relaxed. Out of door exercise of any length caused
exhaustion.

My diagnosis in this case is anccmia [anaimia] find general debility, verging on scurvy, with slight pre
monitory symptoms of the tlisease.

He has been i)ul under anil [an] internal treatment of iron and (piinia [{piininc], with local washes of
sulphate of zinc. A daily allowance of fresh musk ox meat (reserved for the sick) has been issued to him,
and out door exercise prescribed. The daily dose of lime juice, 1 ounce, has not been increased.

At this <late, I already see an improvement in the state of his health. Ralston, with Linn and Biedcrbirk,
is among the men, who have dislike for seal meat.

Private Jiii-tkrhUk: Tenderness of gums and soreness of the pal.ite; signs of anrcmic [an.xmic] state.

Privare Linn: Has been under care for dispepstia [dysjiepsiaj and rheumatic ])ains.

Private Ellis : Was relieved from duty for a day. Derangement of the digestive organs and bowels.

Private Whisler : Relieved from duty for three days. Severe case of snow blindness.

During the month of May the customary dose of lime juice has been regularly issued.
I am, sir, respectfully yours,

Octave Pavy,
Actg. Asst. Surgeon, U, S. Army.

To the CoMMANDiNu Okfickr.

Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, jfuly 3d, 1883.
Sir: During the month of June, the health of the command has been good.

For several days during the month Sergt. Brainard was relieved from out of door duty on account of
a slight inflammation of the gums, caused by the extraction of a tooth.

Sergt. Ralston has rapidly recovered and at present his health is very good.
The customary dose of lime juice has been regularly issued.
No symptoms of scurvy have been detected during the month of June.
I wm, sir, respectfully yours.

Octave Pavy,
Aclg. Asst. Surgeon, U. S. Army.
To the Commanding Officer.

*This statement is inexact and mislcacliiig, ami iIdbs not accord with Dr. Pavy's own words ten lines later, where he refers to
reserved musk-ox meat. l)ii May 20 a seal weighing over live hundrcil |K)unds was killed, and as a large quantity of musk-ox
nieat was found tainted inside a. few days before, I decided to issue seal meat, and reserve musk-ox meat, hares, &c., for the sick.
Sergeant Ralston unfortunately had an aversion to seal meat. Over five hundred pounds of musk-ox meat was obtained May
29, which enabled me to issue it regularly. Until a few days prior to the retreat in August, 1883, the expedition was never
without musk-ox meat. — A. W. Greely, Zieul.

THE LADY FRANKLIN J*AY EXPEDITION.

333

Fort Conukk, Grinnell Land, yuly lo, 1883.

Sir : I have the hiiuor to re pectfully transmit to you my yearly report for the fiscal year ending June
IjothJ, 1.SH3. During the months of July and A igust, i«Xj, the health of the conmiand has generally b«en
good, with the exceptions of occasional cases of derangement of the digestive organs and signs of anu:mia.
|anxmiaj.

I'vt. Lynn, from the loth of July, was relieved from ordinary duty for a few days on account of soreness
of one of his feet, contracted in walking during your western journey. From the middU ■ f the same
month I'vt. Biederbcck has began to be affected with muscular rheumatism, which have [hasj si.ice troublcil
him from time to time.

The general health of the command has continued ;o be good during September, October, ami
November, '82, without any signs of scurvy.

Through December, '82, or even from the end of November, the appetite has in many cases failed, and
symptoms of an aniemic [anxmicj state have been shown.

Nevertheless the general health was good.

During January, '83, the sanitary state of the party has been good, with the exceptions of cases ot
impaired appetite and dysiK-'psy \sic\. During this month Hender has at divers times been under my care
(from the 6th to 13th) as well as Long, who remained under treatment, and was relieved from duty during
eight days, for inci|)icnt, dropsical effusion in the right knee.

Ill February, '83, the health was good, with the exceptions of a few coses of muscular rheumatism.

During Mi'.rch, although the sanitary state of the party appeareil good, our jiowers of endurance
compared with the previous spring were on the decrease.

Pvt. Lyim, whom I considered as one of our men the best fitted for endurance, was obliged to be
excused from early sledge work on account of rheumatism.

Sergts. Ralston and Gardiner suffered from slight tenderness of the gums, although without any symptoms
of scurvy. The health of Ralston has not been good during the whole winter and spring ; his powers of
endurance to cold were below par.

At the beginning of March, '83, Copl. Saler fSalor] remained for two weeks under my care, being in a
debilitated state, and therefore exemjited from any heavy work ; occasionally the corporal spat \sic\ blood.

Copl. [Sergeant] Elison started into the fiulil the loih of March in apparently gooil health, but returned
the 14th, in a state of debility complicated with derangement of the digestive organs; he was relieved from
duty from the i sth to the 2otli. In the beginning of March Pvt. Long was exempted from work for five
days on account of inflammation of the throat.

In April the health'has generally been good, but the party has felt at times the need of fire during the
night.

During the last part of May the health of the command was good, Acept among some of the men who
had dislike for seal meat and were in consequence dejirived of fresh aiiiiiuil food.

Sergt. Ralston in the last days of the month came under my care, being in an ancemic [anKmicJ state
verging on scurvy. He was not relieved from duty, and promptly recovered under a treatment of fresh
meat and tonics, without any addition of preserved vegetables and lime juice.

In June, with the exception of Sergt. Braiiiard, who from the 7th to the loth has been relieved from
out of door duty, on account of an inflammation of the gums, caused by the extraction of an ulcerated
tooth, the general health of the party has been good.

During the whole of the winter the health of Bender has often been, as during the previous year, bad.
Again, from February loth to 14th, he had been dispensed [excused] from duty.

Our experience this year has confirmed the generally established fact that the powers of endurance in
high arctic latitudes, decreases for each successive year.

As our supply of preserved vegetables was less during the winter of 1882-83 than during' the previous
one, and as the variety of uur diet was also considerably less, I can only attribute the better state of our
health this year, to the increased rations of fresh meat and the suppression of the injurious emanations of
deleterious gas from the stove pipes during the winter of i882-'83.

•A

ill

334

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

As it is impossible to foretell what prospects this summer will bring, I consider it to be my duly to
recommend that a certain amount of preserved vegetables should be kept in reserve. Piuing another
winter, without an abundant supply of fresh or even ilricd musk-ox meat, the prospects of this command
would certainly be gloomy and perhaps its fate disastrous.
I am, sir, respectfully yours,

OcTAVK Paw,
Actg. Ass/. Surgeon, U. S. Army.
To the Commanding Officer.

Fort Congf.r, Gr. I and, Fehuary id, 1883.
Sir: I respectfully acknowledge t le receipt of your letter of the 2d inst., and will state that it is diffi-
cult for me to designate the best men 1 r standing cold.

Personally I know tiiat Sergt. Hrainard, Copl. [Sergeant] Klison, and Sergt. Rice (if the last named was
not of a rheumatic disposition) are well fitted for that purpose.

1 have also conlidence in the power of endurance of Copl. Saler [Salor], Pvts. Lynn and Frederick.
The last named is, without being placed on the sick list, under my medical care.
Very respectfully, your obt. servant.

Octave Paw,
A. A. Surgeon, If. S. Army.
[• To the Commanding Officer.]

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Afedkal report of Hospital Stcivard Bicdcrhick.

Washington, U. C, /Jftrw^*-/- 8, 1884.

Sir : Having acted as hospital steward on the " Lad/ Franklin Bay Kxpedition," and being now onlered
by you to re|)ort on the hygiene and care of the sick ' ■^iiig said expedition, 1 do so herewith as well as my
limited knowledge will permit.

We left St. Johns, Newfoundland, on July 7, 1881, on the steam sealer l^ota'%, commanded by Capt.
Richard Pike, with a crew of twenty men. Our officers and the sergeants of the Signal Corps were quartered
in the cabin of the ship; also the captain, mate, first and second engineers. The third engineer and the
ship's cook slept in a small addition to the galley, where Schneider, one of our nuiiiber, took his quarters,
i'he rest of the siiii)'s crew and members of the expedition slept in the forecastle, the ship's crew single ; the
cxpetlilionary members by twos.

Dr. Octave Pavy and Mr. Henry Clay joined the expedition at Ritenbenk, Greenland, and also took
their (luarters in the cabin, and in Ui)ernivik we were joined by two Greenlanders hired in Proven as hun-
ters and dog drivers, who were quarteretl under the forecastle.

No other than sea-sickness was experienced on the voyage excepting on August 3, when Julius R.
Frederick suffered from an attack of colic.

Our food on board the ship, though not dainty, was fairly good and substantial.

Cleanlii jss of body, clothing, and quarters, was enjoined from the beginning.

We arrivcnl in Discovery Harbor, Laily Franklin Hay, latitude 81° 44' north, on August 12, and the
work of unloading the vessel comnunced at once, both ship's crew and members of the expedition being
divided into two parties which worked alternately four hours each. The erection of the house was commenced
at once by the car|)enters, the unloading of the building materials taking jilace first. \\y August 18 all our
stores were landed and our baggage moved on shore, where we pitched tents for temporary abode.

Corporal Starr was relieved from duty and ordered back to Washington August 18, on account of his
suflering from asthma. Private Ryan was seized with an epileptic fit on August 22, on account of which he
also was ordered to return to W.ishington by the JYolfus,

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♦Address omitted in original. — A. W. G.

THE LADY FHANKLIN HAY KXPEDITION.

335

By 'Xugiist 23 our house was so far finished that it permittetl us sheher. Its dimensions were: Length,
65 feet [19.8"']; widtli, 21 feet [6.4"']; and was divided into two rooms, a kilv lien and a small hallway.
t)ne room occupied by the olVuers asijuarters was about lO feet [al)OUt 5'"] by about n feet [6.4'"], and the
other occupied as quarters by the men about 40 feet [ i2"'l by about 21 feet f6.4"'|, the kitchen was about 14
feet |4"'J by 8 feet 1 2.4'"]. and the hallway about 7 feet [alunit 2'"] by S feet [2.4'"]. In order to assure warmth,
the liouse was bi'ilt with double walls, tlie outer one being covered on insicie and outside w ith tar paper.
Metween the walls was an empty s|)ace about fifteen inches [about 380'""'] wide for the free circulation of air.

The officers, Sergeant Rice, and the two Mskiino slept single, while the rest slept two together. The
bunks in the men's (piarters were so-called double-deckers, two slee|)ing in the lower and two in the upper.
The bedding consisted of straw sacks, blankets, and a bufValo rolie for each bed.

During the winter, ice and snow walls were built around the house, antl with constant fires the (luartcrs
were always kept in a comfortable tem|)erature.

Hut little si.itable clothing for tl.at extreme climate had been procured in (Greenland, and everybody had
to be his own tailor, making clothes out of blankets, of which wo fortunately had a gotnl supply. Our foot-
gear, especially, was extremely sparse, consisting of heavy cork-soled shoes — which did excellent service arounil
the (piarters, keeping the feet warm, if suitable stockings were worn, but which were too heavy for work
away from the station — a small number of Indian moccasins, ami a few ("ireenland Kskimo boots. We had
besiiles a number of seal-skin boots, made by the ICskimo on the Labrador coast, but these were too small,
and had all to be altered before they were worn. In order to su|)i)ly this want of fool-gear, shoes were
improvised out of heavy canvas and were worn by sledging parties in the sjiring of 1882; whereas in the
spring of 1883 heavy German stockings were soled with heavy seal-skin and they remlered very efficacious
services.

Our food was varied and of the best, including in the canned supplies all the principal fruits and vege-
tables, which kept in excellent condition to t!ie last, and not enough can be said of them in |)raise.

During our two years' sojourn at l''ort Conger 103 musk-oxen and tpiite a quantity of smaller game, such
as ducks, geese, hares, \:c., were killed, the fresh meat of which, in c:onjunction wild the varietl kinds of canned
vegetables and fruits, was at all times conducive to preserve the health of the party, as was the case at our
station during the entire two years.

During the spring and summer months the party passed most of their time out of doors, those not
exploring doing light work around the house, hunting and botanizing; while for the winter months an order
was issueil that everybody had to take at least one hour of outdoor exercise daily, and no man was allowed
to occupy his bed between the hours of breakfast aiul dinner, exce|)ting the observers on night duty, this oider
being adhered to during both winters.

Maths were used freely, at least one a week l)eing reipiired.

Our amusements were varied. \Ve had an excellent library, and the gieater part of our spaie lime was
passeil in reading. (.James of earils, chess, checkers, dominoes, vvc, were iiululged in. In November, 1881,
a small bi-moiillily newspaper, the "Antic Moon," was started, but the interest in it lessened considerably
after a few months' existence, and its issue was distontinued. A few jirivate theatricals were also indulged
in, but, as tiie talent among us for such enteitaininents was very limited, interest in these was soon lost.
Lieutenants Oreely and Lockwood, Dr. I'avy, and Sergeant Israel delivered interesting lectures. Lieutenant
(ireely es|)ecially persisted in his elVorts to entertain and amuse his party during the long arctic nights, when,
perchan<;e, one or more would show signs of depressed spirits.

A ration of one-half gill of rum was issued to each man every Sunday evening, and an extra allowance
for holidays and the birthday of eadi individual. Only little lit|uor was carried on exploring tii|>s, but that
did excellent service ; when < oming into camp cold, tired, and worn out, a little liquor would at once revive
the spirits and give aclivity to niiiul and body and thus enable us to change our foot-gear, a precaution
strictly adhered to, and to retire into the slee|)ing-liag.

Beginning with August 22, 1881, a daily issue of lime-juice of 1 ounce for each person was made, which
issue was kejit up till our abandoning the station on August 9, 1883.

The sjjirits of the party during the dark winter months were sometimes a little depressed, but never very
low. Loss of ajipetite and a general feeling of lassitude were quite common complaints, always successfully
treated with tincture of iron, taken after eadi meal, and an extra iliet of raw meat. In some few instances
extra allowances of cranberry sauce were also given.

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336

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Some cf the party suffered extremely from snow-blindness while on sledging trips; a solution of sul-
phate of morphia, 2 grains to i ounce of water, did very efficacious service in such cases.

The general health of the party was very good, .ind I do not know of a single case of cold having
occurred. There were two or three very light attacks of tonsilitis. Bender ve often complained of pains
in left side and chest, always accompanied by a light cough, and in a couple of .nstances he even spit blood
and was very feverish.

Two cases of simple fracture occurred. On November 30, 1881 , Gardiner broke his left leg while going
to the tide-gauge for an observation, and on December 13, 1881, Rice fractured his left shoulder by falling
against a projecting piece of hummocky ice while searching for Jens Edwards, the Esquimo, who had in
his depression of spirits taken it into his head to desert and had wandered away into the dark, dreary arctic
night to seek his death. Both cases were bandaged by Dr. Pavy and recovered rapidly.

Frost-bites occurred frequently, but were mostly very slight ones. The nose being the organ most
exposed suffered most frequently, the fingers and feet next, but none need special mentioning except the
few cases enumerated hereafter. On November 8, 1881, I froze my right foot while crossing St. Patrick
Bay, returning from Cape Beechey ; the tide overran the ice-foot and our feet got wet. The great toe
especially was much injured, but got well without needing amputation, which was feared at first. Sergeant
Brainard, Corporal Salor, and Private Connell also froze their feet slightly on the same trip. On March
28, 1882, Ellis returned from Cape Beechey with both feet frost-bitten, but recovered soon. On April 8,
1882, Connell froze his right foot in the sleeping-bag, while on northern journey, and had to return in con-
sequence to the station.

Whisler came near freezing on December 13, i88i ; he had gone out after the runaway Eskimo, with
insufficient clothing, and got so chilled that he partly lost his consciousness. Rice had a hard time to bring
him back to the station, where he arrived stiff and unable to move, but was around again in a few hours,
uninjured.

Toothache was a common complaint, and several teeth had to be drawn frcm different members.
Rice, who had been to Lincoln Bay with Dr. Pavy, carrying packs, was suffering from inflammatory
rheumatism and was unable to return to the station. He managed with difficulty to reach St. Patrick Bay,
from whence the doctor came home to the station for aid on September 9, 1881. A party of five started
first, but as they were unable to carry Rice up the steep hill which borders the southwest shore of St.
Patrick Bay, more help was sent for, and then he was carried up the hill and there placed on a sledge and
carefully removed to the station, where he recovered in a few days.

In July, 1883, I suffered greatly from rheumatism, and had to go to bed on the 20th and remain there
for a few days. My right knee was very much swollen and I felt pain in all my limbs; I had been suffering
somewhat since July, 1882. I recovered so much that I was able to walk with the aid of a stick by August
9, the daiC on which we started on the retreat; after that I steadily imp:oved, but the rheumatism never
entirely left me. Lieutenant Greely, Sergeant Linn, and Privates Connell and Henry, also suffered at dif-
ferent times from rheumatism.

Other complaints during our sojourn at Fort Conger were: September 16, 1881, Lieutenant Greely
started for the L'nited States Range, but had to return on account of pain in his injured knee. November 10,
1 88 1, Sergeant Elison burned his face with i;,«oline while filling a lamp. January 6, 1882, Sergeant Elisonhad
a boil on his neck. March 15, 1882, Schneider cx)mplained of pain in his knees while crossing the straits and
had to return to Cape Beechey, where his knees and face were found to be swollen and his gums were red
and spongy; but he got well when we reached Fort Conger, a few days after. April 10, 1882, I was struck
in the right side with a tent pole, while trying to pitch a tent in Newman Bay, and suffered much pain. I
suffered from retention of urine during the night, on account of which I was ordered back to Fort Conger.
On my way back I suffered from incontinence of urine. Whisler at the same time complained of pains in
liis chest and had also to return to the station. On July i, 1882, while in the interior of Grinnell Land with
Lieutenant Greely, I suffered from a bilious headache and vomiting and had to return to the station. July
19, 1882, Lieutenant Greely was sick in the stomach. March 8, 1883, Linn complained of rheumatism and
general weariness, March 15, 1883, Sergeant Elison returned from Wrangel Bay on account of sickness in
stomach. May 3, 1883, Schneider sprained his right foot slightly.

We abantioned our station at Fort ("onger on August 9, 1883. We had a steam-launch and three
small boats besides a little dingey. We carried about sixty days' provisions and our sleeping gear — the
latter consisting of four single dog-skin, and the remainder of three-men buffalo-robe sleeping-bags. The

THE LADT FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

337

officers were allowed sixteen pounds each and the men eight pounds each of extra clothing. During the
retreat we spread our sleeping-bags over the oars laid lengthwise in the boats, excepting a few times when
we slept on shore and on the ice. On August 26 we were beset in the ice, and on September 10 we aban-
doned the steam-launch and one of the boats; the dingey had been cut uj) and used for fuel during the
retreat. On September 12 we abandoned another boat and tried to reach Cape Sabine over the ice, carry-
ing one boat on the sledge, but the next night a heavy wind from the southwest broke up the ice ami we
drifted into the straits on the piece of ice on which we »vcre encamped. We made several hard attempts
to reach land but were unsuccessful, till we fortunately drifted into Baird Inlet on September 27, against a
high southwest gale, and >ve succeeded in making land on September 29, on north side of Haird Inlet.

During our drift in Smith Sound a good many of us suflTered from diarrhea, probal)ly caused by txpos-
ure and eating fatty substances, as seal blubber, and from the use of salt water in cooking.

Sergeant Cross froze his left foot while camping on the floe, and Gardiner suflfered with a falon on the
first finger of the left hand. Both cases remained sore till the death of the respective patients in January
and June, respectively.

At the time we abanddhed the launch we made a shelter out of the sails, in the fashion of an Indian
" tepee," using the oars as poles, and as soon as we landed we commenced at once the building of stone huts
for winter quarters. Rice and Jens went to Cape Sabine to see what supplies had been left at that place
for us. They returned on the 9th day of October with the good news that there was a cache of 240 rations
left by Mr. Beebe in 1882, and another cache of 240 rations left by Sir George Nares in 1875, besides about
500 rations of bread and a small quantity of canned mutton, lard, vegetables, raisins, rice, and about sixty
pounds of tea left by Lieutenant Garlington and party after the sinking of the Proteus in July, 1883. We
had at this time about ten days' rations left, and there was no possible chance of crossing over to Littleton
Island, as young ice was already forming in some places along the shore, and the ice in the middle of the
channel was running so fast that it dispelled all thoughts of crossing through it. We had besides only one
boat, which was insufficient to hold the whole party in untiuiet waters. Our rations hud been reduced for
some time, and this with the exposure and hard labor had reduced oui strength considerably.

Rice and the Eskimo, Christiansen, made also a trip to Cape Isabella, but found there only 144 pounds
of beef left by Sir (ieorge Nares, in 1875.

As it was easier to move our few rations and our sleeping gear and the records of the expedition to
Cape Sabine than to bring the articles from there to our camp, we abandoned our partly completed huts on
October 12 and reached the little cove where the cache from the wrecked Frotcus was, about midway
between Cape Sabine and Cocked Hat Island, on October 15. We commenced at once the building of a hut
for winter (juarters, occupying at first a shelter built of snow blocks and covered with canvas. The hut was
built with a wall of rocks 4 feet high [i.2"'j and covered with the boat laid lengthwise over in the center,
and canvas stretched over them. Around the wall of rocks we built another one of snow blocks, leaving a
space between the two of several feet, which was filled up with loose snow. Later the fall and drift of snow
covered the whole hut and so excluded all draft. For a door we used a piece of tarpaulin Si tched over a
wooden frame. From the door we built a long passage of snow blocks, in front of whicii we stretched a
piece of sail. A hole was cut through the top of the boat and a small chimney improvised out of empty
tin cans; but this was kept closed except during the hours of cooking. Th hut was 25 feet [7.6'"] long
and 18 feet [5.5'"] wide. We slept with our heads to the walls, and in the miudle was a passage also used
for cooking, &c.

By November i all the stores fiom the different caches had l)een brought to our cp.mp, and as there
was no fOrther manual labor of any moment to be j)erfonned, our rations were reduceil to four ounces
of meat, six ounces of bread, and a small cpiantity of vegetables and butter. These rations remained
the same, with very little change, till the first of March. It was so managed that we had at least a little the
better meal Sundays. On Thanksgiving and Christmas days we had the little rice that was found in the
cache of the wreck boiled, together with some raisins and a little milk and lard, as an extra meal. After
March i our rations were still further decreased, the vegetables, butter, &c., having been used up before that
date. On April the nth a small bear, and on the 13th a seal, was killed, which gave a little increase for a
few days. Later, when all our sup|)lies were exhausted and no game came in, we were forced to cat our
seal-skin lashings, boots and clothing, and coverings from sleeping-bags. The lashings and tanned leather
were eaten boiled, while the hairy clothing was roasted over the coals. Slirimps, or rather sea-lice, were
H. Mis. 393 22

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THE LADY FRANKLIN BAT EXPEDITION.

caught in little nets and helped greatly to feed lis. Sea-kelp and a little saxifrage formed also articles of
food. During the latter part of May, and during June, we gathered rock lichens {/ri^e dc roc/w) and ate
them, mostly boiled, but some were eaten raw. They were to our palates good tasting, but caused in the
beginning a little diarrhea. The small allowance of food and the insufficient protection against the cold
and dampness told at once on the party. Their spirits were remarkably good, considering the circumstances,
and only in a very few cases became dejected and sad. But notwithstanding their good nature some one
or the other would at times become irritable and unreasonable, but generally be penitent shortly after.

Sergeant Cross died January i8, 1883, at 1.45 p. m.. from scurvy and dropsical effusion of the heart. He
had been complaining some time previous, but his case took a more serious turn only a few days before his
death. The death of Cross had a somewhat depressing influence on some of the party, as Lieutenant
Lockwood, Sergeants Linn and Jewell, and Private Ellis, all of whom showed slight sigirs of .scurvy, and
daily needed the help of Dr. Pavy and the rest of us to keep them up. The weakness of body showed
itself also in mind, some of the party being at times very petulant and childish.

On March 24, while cooking some tea over an alcohol lamp, we omitted to draw out the plug that
filled up the chimney through the boat, the only place for ventilation in our hut, and the impurity of the air
caused by unburned carbon, produced asphyxia in some of us; others felt extremely unwell, but only partly
lost their consciousness. As soon as this state of affairs was noticed, the plug was drawn out and a rush
was made for the door to get fresh air and some fainting outside came near freezing. Israel and myself
fainted first, and only for the help of those that kept their consciousness, who helped to bring in those out of
the cold and revived those inside, a number would undoubtedly have perished. Ur. Pavy, fortunately, was
one of those that kept the power of their senses and materially aided the sick. Lieutenant Greely while
fainting oustide froze his hands quite severely. It was during these terrible hours that Private Henry was
first seen stealing the rations, for the repetition of which crime later he was executed.

The Eskimo, Christiansen, died at 9 a. m. on Apiil 5, from exhaustion, He also showed signs of
scurvy. Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeants Jewell and Linn were very weak at this time.

Sergeant Linn died on April 6, about 7 p. m. ; and Lieutenant Lockwood April 9, at 4.20 p. m. ; both
from exhaustion caused by insufficient nutriment. Rice died on April 9, about 7.40 p. m., in liaird Inlet,
where he had gone in company with Julius R. Frederick to recover the English meat abandoned there in
the fall previous; Jewell died April 12; Ellis died May 19; Ralston, May 23; VVhisler, May 24; Israel,
May 27, about 3 p. m.; Lieutenant Kislingbury, June i ; Bender on June 6, at 5.45 p. m.; Dr. Pavy, June 6,
at 6 p. m.; all from weakness caused by insufficiency of food.

Private Henry was shot by order of Lieutenant Greely for persistently stealing food.

Sergeant Gardiner died June 12, at 5 p. m., ixqfa weakness; his death was hastened by inflammation of
the bowels. Schneider died June 18 ; he showed strong signs of scurvy.

Eskimo Jens was drowned while out hunting on April 30, 1884.

The date of death of Corporal Nicholas Salor,* who also died of weakness caused by insufficient nour-
inent, is not recorded in my diary.

Sergeant Elison died on July 8, at 3 a. m., on the U. S. Steamship Bear, in Disco Harbor, Godhavn,
Greenland. Sergeant Elison started early in November, 1883, in company with Sergeants Rice and Linn
and Private Frederick, for Cape Isabella to bring the 144 pounds of meat left there by Sir George Nares in
1875. On this trip he froze his feet and hands, and was brought into camp about November 11 in a very
bad condition. His feet were frozen up above the ankle, and both hands and his nose were also frozen.
There was at first little hope of his recovery, but with assiduous care and by giving him from our allowances,
pitiful as they were, extra food, his vigorous nature improved remarkably, considering the poor quarters we
could, with the best will, give him. The hut dark, cold, damp, and poorly ventilated, was but a pitiful
hospital. Were a drop of water spilled on the blankets, it would freeze at once, making a not very inviting
sick-bed ; besides, this patient suflered during the first few months after his mishap considerably from incon-
tinence of urine. The extract of beef taken with us in the medical stores, besides a few cans of condensed
milk, were set aside for his sole u.se; besides, the commanding officer in consultation with Dr. Pavy would fix,
from time to time, the extra amount of food to be given him; this varied according to the state of the patient
and the amount and kind of provision on hand. As we could not attempt an amputation, owing to our
poor facilities and the want of instruments, we had to allow the diseased parts to slough off, helping as much

♦Salor died June 3, 1884.— A. W. G.

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY KXIMODITION.

339

as possible with a pair of small scissors and a small scalpel. The wounds were dressed daily with vaseline
at first, and later, when our limited supply of it was exhausted, with lard mixe<l with a litUe salicylic acid.
As we had but a very limited amount of lint and bandages, I had to take the fio/en underclothinj; out of
the wreck cache, thaw them in the sleejjing-baj; and on my cliest, and im|)rovise dressing material out of
the same. On June 22, the day of our rescue, Elison was yet lying helpless on his mattress; his feet had
both sloughed off through the ankle joint and his fingers were dried u|) with the exception of one, which
had been taken off.

Respectfully submitted.

Henrv Hiei>i;riiick,
First Lieut. A. W. Grf,ki-v. Jlospital Steward, U. S. A.

Fifth Cavahy, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.

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lAciilcnanl Grccly^s supplementary report on hygiene.

The monthly and annual reports of Acting Assistant S'>i);i.on O. I'avy, the surgeon of the expedition,
are appended in full (pages 324 to 334).

Five weeks were occupied by the surgeon in making the first annual report and ten days the second.
These reports were recjuired in order that the subject of health should be treated generally and fully, while
there was ample time and the data at hand, and in order that in case of disaster our experiences might be
on record for the benefit of others.

However meager are these reports they could not have been made more complete had the surgeon
lived, except from memory, for his diary contains absolutely no medical notes or data apart from that con-
tained in these monthly and annual communications.

Since the return of the expedition, Hospital Steward Henry Biederbick, a very faithful and devoted non-
commissioned officer, has rendered a report covering his knowledge of the health condition of the party. It
is given in full (pages 334 to 339).

To these reports I deem it necessary to add, in consequence of repeated inquiries from medical men
and others, a record of such hygienic precautions and preventives as fell within my own action and province.
In so doing few if any references can be made to strictly medical matters, as I am not competent to pass
judgment thereon.

It should be borne in mind that Dr. Pavy was .in Greenland when the expedition was fitted out. In
consetjuence it became necessary for me to arrange the quarters, clothing, medical stores, provisions, ami
general outfit. For the manner in which the expedition was fed, clothed, housed, and lived generally at
Fort Conger, be it good or bad, I am alone responsible.

The limited appropriation, the very few days allowed for estimates, and the brief time elapsing between
the order for the expedition and the date of its sailing, interfered with the completeness of the outfit, but
fortunately, as it proved, to no injurious extent.

In regard to the medical supplies, the commanding officer being entirely ignorant of what was needed,
the quantity, (luality, and character of them was left to the Medical Department, United States Army, which
acted with liberality, if not indeed with judgment.

Dr. Pavy, however, made an official statement that the selection was discreditable to the Medical
Department, and that even the simplest and most indispensable drugs were wanting. He repeated this
statement in a more guarded form in his report dated October 6, 1882, saying that his stock of medicines
was " very incomplete and even absolutely deficient in essential drugs."

He was requested to mention such deficient drugs as were actually needed in practice any month.
Cod liver oil and digitalis were the only medicines ever specially mentioned as needed.*

*To meet the want of cod liver oil the entire Stock of olive oil was placed at the surgeon's dispo^iil, and a small part of it
was used medicinally.

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These deficiencies, at all events, proved practically immaterial, as the expedition enjoyed such health
that every man but one (who is yet living) was for full duty on leaving Fort Conger, August 9, 1883.

The clothing for the expedition was largely of the kind issued to the Army by the Quartermaster's
Department, which was supplemented by purchases of thick underclothing at St. John's, Newfoundland. The
foot-gear proved insufficient in (juantity. Sergeant Rice was sent into Canada for an exjjected su[)ply of
moccasins which I had written for, but failed to obtain. Later all possible skin boots and clothing — no large
amount, however — were purchased in (Ireenland, but a large (luantity could not be obtained without a much
longer stay than it was possible to make.

When foot-gear for field work became scarce. Sergeant Frederick succeeded in making from oosook
skins, that I had purchased in Greenland, skin boots which answered the purpose admirably.

No i)erson, however, suffered from lack of clothing at Fort Conger or during any of the various sledg-
ing expeditions, a conclusive proof that skin garments and Kskimo clothing are not essential to safety, if
indeed to comfort, in Arctic travel.

The comparative value of woolen and skin garments was acknowledged to be a mooted question, but
far the greater number of the expedition found woolen garments the best for general use, as skin garments,
easily wet by persi)iration, were dried only witii difficulty by the heat of the body at a great draught on the
vital energies, and with great discomfort.

The (juarters provided for occupancy consisted of a wooden building, which was originally planned to
be 68 feet |.!0.7"'J by 18 feet [5.5'"] in the clear, but the loss of a portion of the lumber, which carried as a
deck load was more or less broken, compelled the shortening of the building about 3 feet [.9'"]. The lost
space was taken from the officers' room, which, in the nortii or coldest end of the building, was about 18
feet [5.5'"] scjuare. The men occupied at the' southern end of the building a space about 40 feet [i2"'J by 18
feet [5.5'"] in the clear, leaving a kitchen 9 feet [^.7'"] by 12 feet [3.7'"], and an entry into which opened
four doors from kitchen, officers' room, men's quarters, and the outer door (facing west).

On the north and south ends of the building were additions or han-los, 20 feet f6"'] by 10 feet [3'"] in
size, which communicated by a door, in the center of the north and south ends, with the quarters of officers
and men, respectively, and also had doors opening outwards.

To suit the peculiar climate the building was double, with an air space of 14 inches [356™"'] between
the inner and outer walls. The outer walls and roof were simply rough inch boards laid as closely together
as possible, and covered with thick tarred paper which was secured by battens nailed over the joints. (The
black tarred paper absorbed much heat during the presence of the sun, and contributed not inconsiderably
to comfortable inside temperatures during several months.) Thinner tarred paper was tacked against the
inside studding, before the inside wall of tongued and grooved boards was put on. The lumber being
slightly damp when used shrunk some the second year, when the cracks were papered over.

The floor and ceiling, of single inch boards, were also tongued and grooved, so that they were almost
air-tight the first winter, but were more open the second.

The rooms had a studding of 8 feet [2.4"'], and trap-door ventilators opened into the garret, which,
formed by the pointed roofs and containing over half as much space as the lower story, afforded excellent
opportunity for storing such articles as would deteriorate too much from exposure to extreme cold.

In winter the outer doors of the lean-tos were closed, the whole house banked almost to the roof
(entirely so the second year) with snow and ice, while all entrance and exit was through the west door.
Over the western entrance was also erected the second winter a large lean-to covered with canvas, in which
was stored a supply of fuel each week.

In winter the doors and windows were double with ample air sj)aces between, and close shutters were
also affixed outside the latter.

Eighteen of the men occupied double-tier bunks, two men sleeping in each bunk, excepting the Eskimo,
who had single bunks, while the astronomer, photographer, and a meteorological observer had their (juar-
ters in a corner of the men's room, where chronometers, chronograph, barometer, and other scientific instru-
ments were in position. Generally the bunks were movable.

The men were amply provided with blankets, buffalo robes, buffalo overcoats, and slept on mattresses
filled with straw or excelsior.

The four officers occupied the one room, which .served both as dining and sleeping apartment.

TDE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

341

The quarters were heated by three stoves (counting the cooking range), one in each apartment. The
chimneys were made of double terra-cotta pipe, the smoke passing into a 6-inch [152"""] joint which was
built up inside a 12-inch [305"""] one. This plan not only tended to guard against fire by lowering the
temperature of the chimney adjacent to wood work, but als > by leaving an air space, which had an aper-
ture into the rooms, facilitated ventilation of the separate rooms to a considerable extent.

The stoves provided were not suited to burn Cape lireton coal, and they gave much trouble at times
with gas and smoke, and never gave out heat commensurate with fuel consumed. As there was no money
to ])urchase heating stoves these had to be taken. The cooking range, however, was an excellent one, fully
provided with furniture and well adapted to our needs.

It goes without saying that an e(iuable temperature could not be maintained throughout the entire
room, such conditions being almost impracticable under most favorable circumstances in lower latitudes.

For nine months in the year water froze on the floor, and it is probable that the average temperature
at one's head was not far from 80° (76.7° C).

The readings of the attached thermometer of the barometer, 3 feet [.9"'] above the floor, show how
remarkably equable for an arctic house the temperature was. The first ten tlays of February, 1882, the
mean temperature of the outside air was —51.6° (—46.4° C), while the mean temperature by the attached
thermometer in the men's room was -f 50.1° (10.1° C), a difference of 101,7° (S^-S" ^■)' ^''*^ mean inside
tem|)erature from 7 a. m. to 1 1 p. m. for that time was 52.4° [1 1.3° C], and from 1 1 p. m. to 7 a. m., 45.2°
[7.3° C], the coldest night being 42.5° [5.8° C.j. The quarters were therefore fairly if not well heated, as
well so as many military quarters in the northern part of the United States during winter months.

During April and May, 1883, it became necessary, on account of scarcity of fuel, to allow the fires to
die down after 9 p. m., and for several weeks the mean temperature at night was at or slightly below the
freezing point, and on one occasion a single temperature of 22° [—5.6° C.J was noted. These temperatures,
although the men were amply supplied with blankets, bufildo sleeping-bags, &:c., were considered by the
surgeon injurious to the health of the men.

In the men's quarters and next the kitchen was built a bath-room, that was almost always of a com-
fortable temperature from two chimneys which were within its limits. The bath-room, except in summer,
was used for ordinary ablutions, but was never used for washing clothes.

It is thus seen that the (piarters, for arctic quarters, were unusually large, well ventilated, and afforded
unequalcd facilities for personal cleanliness.

The cubic air space per man was very high. On the main floor the space measured 9,360 cubic feet;
the air spaces between walls, 1,592 cubic feet; and the attic room, 5,265 cubic feet, aggregating 16,217
cubic feet, or 649 cubic feet per man. The almost constant absence of an observer raised the average space
to 675 cubic feet, which the reductions for the space occui)ied by the bodies of the men and the various
articles in quarters could hardly have brought below 600 cubic feet per man.

The living-room, air spaces between walls, and the attic are included in this computation, as they were
so arranged that all contributed to the air supply. Uesides, two men for several months slept in the attic.

The lean-tos, which aggregated 3,000 cubic feet of space (4,500 cubic feet the second winter), have been
neglected in this calculation, for, though they were thrown into communication with the living-rooms fre-
(juently between 6 a. m. and 1 1 j). m., yet from 1 1 p. m. to 6 a. m. such conditions existed but twice an
hour, when the observer (piitted and entered the main building.

The quarters consequently afibrded 600 cubic feet of s|>ace to each man, which is the regulation space
allowed in the barracks of the Hritish army. The cubic space allowed for quarters to each teaman in the
British mercantile service is 72 cubic feet, which really amounts to 144 cubic feet, as one-half the crew is
constantly on watch.

A minimum of 857 cubic feet of air space per head, which has been assigned by one authority, has
never been possible in an Arctic expedition. The cubic space on the living deck of Arctic ships, given in
admiralty reports, shows that in H. M. S. Resohiti' there was 182 cubic feet per man ; on H, W.'ft. Discovery^
216 feet; and H. M. S. ^Av/, 280 feet. This makes no allowance for the greater proportional space allowed
ofticers nor for the air displaced by the men and their outfits. It appears that on the Alert and JJiscotiety
the space for each man, after all deductions, was under 200 cubic feet, or less than one-third the space had
at Conger. In the Swedish Arctic Expedition, 1872-73, the men on ship-board had only 80 cubic feet, and
those on shore 154 cubic feet per man.

■

I ; :

;?!

; ! ' '

i i :

342

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

The dryness o! the quarters was insured by the air spaces between the walls anu oy the attic, which
served as a condenser. As events proved, the moisture in the warm air which ascended into the attic must
have largely j)assed out between the floor and eaves, for not more than sixty to eighty gallons were precip-
itated during the first winter (and much less the second) in the shape of frost, which we easily removed
before high temperature came. The quarters were so dry that, in the weekly inspection of bedding by me,
frost was found only on two occasions, at the head of a bed occupied almost continuously by observers, and
at the head of my own bunk, which was very much exposed. Frost occasionally formed in small quantities
in extremely severe weather on the mop-boards, caused by the fact that turf had been filled in at the bottom
of the air space while building.

The bath-room was always of a comfortable temperature, .ind, warm water being plentiful, there was no
neglect in complying with my orders that each man must bathe weekly. On the contrary two baths weekly
were not infrequent, and one officer bathed daily for many months.

The commodious, warm, dry quarters and excellent bathing accommodations doubtless exerted a bene-
ficial influence on the general health. It seems to me advisable, on the score of health, that all future polar
expeditions should take temporary (juarters, to be erected on land.

The dietary list was made up by me after an examination of those of preceding expeditions, particularly
of Nordenskitild and Nares. It was modified somewhat by my personal opinion that, while the diet of a
man serving in the arctic regions should be enlarged in the direction of fresh fatty substances, yet it should
also include as far as possible such articles as the men have regularly eaten in lower latitudes.

In .addition to the usual ship stores common to all expeditions, the following variety of other provisions
was also included. The amounts given are weekly allowances.

Canned vegetables (tomatoes, potatoes, onions, asparagus, green corn, lima beans, carrots, turnips,
squash, beets, okra, and green peas), 52 ounces. Enough dry vegetables were taken for soups to raise, in
etjuivalent, the amount to 56 ounces. Canned fish and shellfish (salmon, oysters, clams, shrimps, crab meat,
and lobsters), 2.8 ounces. Soup, 5.7 ounces. Fruits and berries in natural juice (apples, peaches, pears,
pineapples, gooseberries, blueberries, quinces, cherries, and grapes), 15.7 ounces. Cr.inberries and rhubarb,
1 7.9 ounces. Preserves and fruit butters (damsons, ginger, tamarinds, marmalade, blackberries, peach, plum,
quince, and pear butters), 44 ounces. Milk, 9 ounces. Butter, 14 ounces. Macaroni, 2.2 ounces. Cheese,
2.5 ounces. Dried fruits and nuts (dates, prunes, evaporated apples, cherries and peaches, figs, raisins,
cocoanut, and brazil nuts), 7 ounces. Fresh lard, 3.5 ounces. Dried eggs, 2.1 ounces.

The pickles were of various kindsj including a large quantity of sauerkraut, and the cereals embraced
tapioca, corn starch, oatmeal, corn meal, farina, cracked wheat, hominy, and flour.

The foregoing list shows that har Uy any article of common use was absent from our dietary list, and
so complete was the supply that the hospital stores were not drawn on for the occasion.il sick.

A proper criticism of the foregoing allowance is that the vegetables (tomatoes, onions, and potatoes)
should have been increased at least five ounces weekly, while rhubarb, cranberry sauce, and berries could
have been reduced to the same extent.

In 1 88 1 I asked that enough vegetables be sent me in 1882 to raise the weekly allowance to 63 ounces.

My surgeon was pleased in 1881 to commend the list as being substantially perfect, and, in a written
communication with the other officers, had no additions to make, even by the expected steamer of 1882,
except a little canned poultry.

The return of three men in i88r, and the percentage of damaged provisions (for which a liberal allow-
ance had been made) being very small, enabled me to increase to a considerable extent the allowance for the
first year of vegetables and canned fruits, while the regulation allowance for the second year was carefully
retained in case — as happened — no visiting steamer reached us with additional supplies in 1882.

The fixing of the bill of fare was a duty I deemed so important that I retained it in my own hands,
except for perhaps two months, when absent in the field or otherwise pressingly engaged, when it was
.issigned to the surgeon or Lieutenant Lockwood.

The rule of no set routine was followed, and, except the cook and myself, no one knew what would be
the dinner for any day. The cook w.is frequently changed, monthly as a rule, which gave variety to the
methods in which the foo'l was prepared. In fixing the bill of fare the cook was often consulted and asked
to suggest new dishes in the making of which he might be skilled.

TOE LAUY FRANKLIN HAY KXPKDITION.

343

Officers and men ate the same food, and only rarely did any delicacy appear on our table which the
men did not share. A considerable stock of delicacies had been selected originally by me for the officers'
mess, but later I ileemed it best to throw these supplies into the general mess.

In case of even slight ailments the surgeon was re<piested to recommend special diet for the men. Such
recommendations were very rarely made, but in all cases were invariably authorized and enforced.

The food actually consumed per man daily, during the two years at Fort Conger, was as follows;

Articles.

Fresh musk meat ..

Krcsli hinls and hares

C'aniit'il meats, soups, iVc

Caniieil fish

I'emmicaii

I'nrk, bacon, and salt beef

lliittcr ..

Lard

Ham

Milk

Condensed egjjs

Cheese

Total meat, &c

Canned vegetables

Sugar (white)

Sirup

Total saccharine

Ounces.

16.0

o. «
1.6

o-S
0.4
^.6

2-3
0.6
0.6
1.6
0.4
0.4

27.8

10.8

3-5

i.S

Articles.

Flour. ..

( )atmeal and cornmeal ... _

Hani bread ..

Macaroni. ...

Farina, corn starch, &c

kice and hominy

lleans and pease

Total farinaceous

Canned apples ..

Other canned fruits

Cranberry sauce and rhubarb

Total fre.sh fruits

Pried fruits .

Preserves (including fruit butters)
I'ickles

S-3

Ounces.

2-3

3»

0.4

0-3

0.4

IJ.O

1.2

2.0

0.8

l.o

1. I

:<-'\\

i2,

This aggregate of 64.3 ounces would doubtless be increased by coffee, chocolate, tea, spices, condiments,
&c., to nearly 70 ounces per man. The waste was very small, far less than in any ordinary family, and this
amount may reasonably be assumed as the quantity of food necessary for the maititenance of a man's
health in a latitude where the mean annual teinperature is —4° ( — 20° C.).*

Table linen and crockery of good quality were provided, and three courses at dinner were always served
the men at the tables — soup, meat, with vegetables and desert. There was no exception to this in the two
years. On four days a week the dessert was fruit or berries of some kind, and on four days a made one,
both kinds being served on Sunday.

Breakfast was at 7 a. m., and dinner at 4 p. m. At 11 a. m. and 9 p. m. a lunch, consisting of
unlimited coffee, tea, hard bread, and butter, was set out for such as desired.

The musk meat contributed in my opinion to the health of the party. Some 20,000 pounds were
obtained, of which we probably lost two thousand by foxes and bear, and nearly a thousand pounds spoiled
early in July, 1882. Nearly a thousand pounds of birds were brought from Greenland, and at least five
hundred pounds more of fresh meat was obtained from seal (a few were eaten) and small game birds and
hares. Unfortunately game was abundant at the season of the year when meat was least necessary, and the
proportion eaten during the summer months was unduly great.

An attempt to equally distribute the meat throughout the last year failed through the loss by foxes of
cached meat which was thought safe.

'ITie following data from my diary show the musk meat eaten after September i, 1882: September about
1,000 pounds; October, 1,122 pounds; November, 543 pounds; December, 755 pounds; January, 1883,690
pounds; February, 630 pounds; March to May inclusive, 1,616 pounds; June, 831 pounds; July, 609 pounds.
Total for eleven months, 7,696 pounds. In August, 1882, the amount could not have been far from 1,400
pounds, which, with birds, seals, &c., made the fresh meat of the last year aggregate at least 9,500 pounds.

*The convicts at hard lalrar in England have Hfty-one ounces daily, including milk and molasses.
l875-'76, had a ration of forty-six ounces of solids.

The British expedition,

' i

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t ^1

344

THE LADY FRANKLIN MAY EXPEDITION.

Drinking and cooking water was obtained by melting ice from the palcocrystic floes in the harbor,
except for two and a lialf montiis in summer, when the running brooks furnished a better supply. The water
from the tloes always containeil a certain amount of salt, too great a ([uantity to allow of its use for photo-
graphic purposes, but care in selection of ice preventeil the water from being brackish to the taste.

The absence of sunlight (at Conger four and a half months each year) had effect on the men according
to temperament. In general there was largely increased irritability of tem|)er, a disposition to sleep (or at
times wakefulness) a decrease of api)etite, somewhat impaired digestion, lack of energy, apparently (kv .ase
in talk, and tlepression of s|)irits. Otlicers anil men were alike affected.

The skin assumed gratlually a deathly pallor, a waxy yellowish appearance not unlike that of a corpse,
which disappeared rapidly ;<fter the return of the sun.

The ailments at Conger have been enumerated by the surgeon, but it was always a source of surprise to
me that colds were never contracted. Coughs and some bronchial troubles occurred through the emanation
of coal gas the first winter, but I recall no genuine influenza from <Iraughts or exposure. This is the more
remarkable as the men fretpiently rushed out of doors, bareheaded and in slippers, when the outer temi)era
ture was —50° (—45.6° C.) or lower. The f;ict has elsewhere been pointed out that the temperature of the
air around the hea<l was (juite regularly 50° (28° C.) higher than at the feet.

[During the boat journey conditions favoring colds were even more marked. Excessive exertions caused
perspiration freely, while clothing and feet were constantly wet from work in ice and water. For days the
clothing of the men was never dry, and the slee])ing-bags were in like damp condition. On one occasion
Sergeant Rice, breaking through rubble-ice, changed his drij)ping garments on the floe in a brisk wind with-
out apparently suffering from the exposure. Rheumatic jiains which had troubled many at Conger disap-
peared and did not return save in special cases at Camp Clay.]

Hunting and walking were always encouraged at Fort Conger, and every attempt was made to promote
indoor amusements, so as to fill up the long night of four and a half months.

Bagatelle, chess, cards, rifle-matches, i\:c., reading, lectures, and the editing of a paper were resorted to.
No indulgence rc(iuested or suggested by either officers or men was ever refused. Kvery possible plan was
followed to induce cheerfulness, confidence, and harmony, conditions in arctic service which are not only
essential to health but to success.

Discipline was relaxed as far as was possible, never being of a severe stamp, and the general ch.aracter
o. the men was such that I had rarely reason to regret such a course.

The men were required to keep regular hours and were obliged to go to bed at 1 1 p. m., unless their
duties fell in night hours. In the second winter, except night observers, no man was allowed to occupy his
bed between 8 a. m. and 3.30 p. m. This restriction appeared necessary to promote sleep in regular hours
for strange as it may appear there was the same disinclination to go to bed or to rise regularly in the long
arctic night or full polar day as is sometimes noticed in lower latitudes.

An ounce of lime-juice was issued daily to each man, which was omitted whenever cider was drank.
The lime-juice was discontinued for a few days on occasions when the surgeon recommended it. Only one
or two members of the party ever attempted to ev.ade taking this valuable antiscorbutic.

Exercise was never enforced for itself, but whenever a man was found too much inclined to avoid it, he
was given such duty as required exertion in the open air. As a rule it was urged that one hour a day should
be spent in exercise or outdoor work. The men were generally fond of hunting, walking, &c., and but
little trouble was found on that score.

No ration of spirits was ever issued as such. Generally a quart and a half of New England .urn was
divided between the party on Sunday evening. As two or three rarely drank rum, it gave a little over a
half gill to each man. The birthday of each man was duly celebrated by a dinner which he selected, and
by a present of a quart of rum. Holidays were similarly marked. A small personal stock of wine (port,
catawba, and sauterne) was distributed by me about etpially to the officers and men on special occasions.

About one gill of rum weekly and one-third as much wine is the average amount of spirits drank by
each man during the two years at Conger. I cannot now recall a case where spirits were ever prescribed,
although possibly there were a few instances.

THK LADY KUANKI.IN «AY EXrEDlTION.

345

For sledge parties the following daily ration was fixed:

Articles.

1882.

1883.

Nares,
i87S-'76.

Otinees.
20

Articles.

18K2.

1883.

OuHCfS.

N.ir«'»,
•875-'7<i.

Meat

Outires.
22

2
10

Otinrts.
i

Butter

Toliacco

Bread

14 !

Salt

Milk

I'euuer ..

.Suiiar .

2
{ *

* )ni(>ii iH)W(Ier

Tea

Curry paste

Chocolate

Lime-juice

Kum

48,'.,

47 J*

Alcohol fuel

*()r beans.

NoTR. — I recommend as a suitable field ration for an American expedition the following: Pemmican, 11 ounces; lioiled
l)acon, 3I ounces; fresh meat, b} ounces; sausage, if ounces; tot.il meat, 22 ounces. Butter, 2 ounces; broad, 10 ounces;
milk, I ounce; sugar, \\ ounces; tea, compressed, I ounce; jxitatoes, evaporate<l, 4 ounces; salt, \ ounce; pepper, ^',1 ounce;
curry ]iastc, ,',, ounce; tolal food, 41 ,'•'„ ounces. I.lme juice, i ounce; alcohol fuel, 6 ounces ; total ration, 48,<, ounces. Beef tea
and coffee or chocolate might each well replace tea one meal a week, and a ration of ^,1 ounce of eva)K)ratetl apples or peaches
might be beneficially added.

Lime-juice pemmican was most distasteful, and like all objectionable food is exceedingly dangerous in
the field. Chocolate, when drank in the morning, induced thirst in many cases. Tea is by all means the
arctic drink, and in our exi)eriencc stimulated the most with the least apjjarent reaction.

On leaving Fort Conger August 9, 1883, the entire party was in health except Hospital Steward Henry
Biederbick, who was suffering from inflammatory rheumatism, and Private (now Sergeant) Francis Long,
who complained of chest pains, but still performed duty. It is notable that these two men, whom the sur-
geon and I thought would possibly be unable to do any hard work during the retreat, not only did all that
fell to them, but are now living, despite the fact that Long, a natural and remarkable hunter, never spared
himself in the pursuit of game up to the storm before the rescue, and Biederbick was equally prodigal of his
strength and energies in caring for the sick and helpless. Although some of the party suffered from diarrhea
during the drift in Kane Sea, yet every man was for active duty on landing at Eskimo Point, September 29,
1883, except Sergeant Cross, who had frozen a foot slightly, and, though able to do other duty, could not
work in the drag-ropes for a few days.

The excessive hardships, unremitting work and short rations from the beginning of September told, how-
ever, on the health and strength of the men by the time we formally went into winter tjuarters near Cape
Sabine the last of October, 1883.

The building of temporary quarters at Eskimo Point, an apparent necessity at the time, was not only a
task which taxed to the utmost the physical strength of the party, but it also wore out hand and foot gear
and bruised badly hands, &c., which did not heal with facility. Fully half the party froze slightly their feet
during the march from Eskimo Point to Camp Clay, owing to more or less tidal overflow and the salty
efflorescence which, melting readily even at low temperatures, saturated the foot-gear.

Our quarters for winter at Camp Clay were a stone hut covered with canvas and a whale-boat. Snow
blocks were laid on the roof and piled around the hut, and as winter advanced the whole structure was
gradually and completely buried by the drifting snow.

The entire supply of loose rocks was exhausted in erecting the walls to a height of 4 feet [i.a""] at sides
and ends. The hut was 25 feet [7.6™] by 18 feet [5.5""] in the clear, and in the center under the boat was a
little over 7 feet [2.1'"] high.

The fioor was coarse gravel, on which was spread canvas to protect the sleeping-bags from the ground.
It was of little avail, for within a few days the bags, canvas, and sand were frozen solidly together. Snow
brought in on the person and condensing moisture from cooking speedily rendered the inside of the bags
more or less damp, and whenever quitted by the occupants the inside of the bags froze as solidly as the
low»;r portions.

^l!i

346

TIIK LADY KUANKIJN HAY KXPKDITION.

In the seven months durinj^ whi<h this wretched hut was occupied tlie temperature when we were tying
never rcacheil the freezing point of wnier, and rarely ilid the thernionicter of the barometer, two feet [.6"'
from the cooking stove and two feet [.6'"] above the ground, show such a temperature.

The cubic space per man was 94 ^j feet, which was probably reduc ed to 80 feet by the bo(hcs of the
men, sleeping-bags, \'c., nearly half the cubic spa<'c per man on the AUit and Jhsioiriy, and ecjual to or
greater than that of the sailors of the Swedish Arctic expedition of 187J-73. A tin can in the roof served
as a ( hiinney for smoke and as a ventilator al other times. The high winds which prevailed the greater j-art
of the winter served to< liange the air rapidly (too rapidly we often thought) thiough the ventilator, and the
crevices between the boat and the canvas roof, so that the party suffered little if any for air. The condi-
tion of the air was ftir the worst during the cooking of the two meals. At such times the dense smoke and
the vapor from the cooking food rendered it impossible to see even the light a few feet distant. The air was
so bad then that but few could remain upright in theii bags. To remedy this as far as jjossible the door
was opened, which, as the air ranged from —10° ( — 23.3° (-'.) to —40" (—40° C), chilled every one. It
was sur|)rising that the cooks were ever able to prepare the hot drink and food, and it was nothing un-
usual for them to be thoroughly exhausted from cold, smoke, and work. It is yet more sur]>rising that the
two men (Frederick and Long) who suffered most from these unfavorable conditions are yet living.

During the winter no more exertion or exercise was taken than was necessary to perform indispensable
work, that being one point on which my surgeon and I weie agreed. In certain cas'.'s the medical officer
professionally advised exercise, which was enforced as far as possible. The results of physical exertion or
of abstention therefrom are in doubt. Council, Gardiner (who died only ten days before the rescue), Henry,
Elison, and I did substantially no physical work. Hrainard, Uiederbick, Frederick, Rice (who died of
overwork and exhaustion), and Long ilid collectively seven-eighths of all the physical work.

The minor office of nature was performed ii. the hut, a tub being provided for that purpose, which was
much frequented, as the cold appeared to weaken the kidneys greatly, and in several incontinence of urine
occurred at times.

The more important function gave great troui 'e owing to exhaustion arising ftom physical efforts to
assist the torpid bowels ami also from the exposure X'\ the weather. Some perfornicd two or three times
each week, but the average movement was weekly, and in several instances there was no office from fourteen
to seventeen days.

The ration during October ranged from twenty to thirty ounces of solids each day, but on November
I it was necessary to make a very material reduction to insure any chance for life.

The ration from November i, 1883, '.o March i, 1884, was fixed as follows :

Article.

f)unce.s..

1
4.0 1
0. 26 1

0.4 1
0.6 i

0.3 '
0.2
0. 2
0. I
6.0

Article.

Ounces.

0.8
o.s
0. 2<i
0. I
0. 16
0.2
0.4

14.48

Meat

Extract of beef . ..

nog-biscuit

Hutter

l-ard

Kice.

Kvaiwratcd ])otatoes ..

Canned soup -, _

Tomatoes

Kaisins

Conden.scd milk

I'ickled onions

Total solids

Canned peas

Canned corn

Canned Ciirrots

Bread

For beverages was allowed each man daily extract of coffee, 0.44 ounce ; extract of chocolate, 0.3
ounce ; tea, 0.3 ounce.

There were issued weekly as antiscorbutics and luxuries: Mulberries, 0.2 ounce; rum, i ounce; lime-
juice, 0.3 ounce, and one-tpiarter of a lemon. The very small amount of pep])er, salt, onion powder, and
sugar were reserved for special occasions, but eventually a considerable part of them were set aside for
Elison's exclusive use.

Tlie above ration assumed that the canned goods were full weight. It was evident that this was not
true of the extract of beef nor of any vegetable. The dog-biscuit was all moldy and unfit for food. It is
a liberal allowance to estimate its nutritive value at half of what it wfis originally. About one-eighth the
bread was somewhat moldy and another eighth had been wet and frozen, for which increased weight no
allowance was made in issues. Some of the potatoes and chocolate were moldy and part of the bacon

TIIK LADY I'UANKLIN IJAY KXI'KDITION.

347

rusty. The lard was not issued during the winter, lieinK set aside for Kli^on's licnetit, as were several cans
of ntilk, sou|), and a (|uanlity of butter. 'I'en pounds of milk and eight ounces of chocolate were stolen.
In issuing seal and fox meat no allowance was made for bones.

Sergeant Hrainard, the issuing clerk, made it a rule in his week's issues to retain in favor of the general
stores any fraction of ounces, and tiiat his improvised scales, as was surmised, gave scant weight, was shown
by small surjiluses on March i. It also became necessary to provide for an extra day, the 29th of Kebruary,
as it escaped my notice in making cal< ulations that 1 H84 was a leap year. < )n the other hand, about seventy
pounds of fox-meat were a<lded to our supplies, anil two fresh seal-skins were boiled and used in soups.
Seal blubber, to a certain amount, was issued extra.

The following table, in whi( h allowances have been made for damaged food, &c., gives more «:orrectIy
the <laily ration on which the party (whi( h had been already on a half-ration or less for over a month) sub-
sisted for one hundred and twenty-one ilays:

Articles.

soLins.

Meat ._

Kxtract of beef

F.vnimratcd |>ntatoes

Caniicil soup

Canned tomatoes

Canned peas

Canned corn

Canned carrots

I'ickled onions

bread

]>og-blsci)it

Itutter

Condensed milk

Rice

Raisins

Total

t)unces.

Articles.

4.1

0.2

0.5

0.25

0. IS

o.oX

0.4

55
0.4

0-45
0.15
0. 10
CIS

HEVERACES.
Kxlmcl of coffee

Kxtract of chocolate

Tea

Kiiin

MF.DICINAI..

Cloii(ll)erries

Limejuice ... .

•

12.88

Ounces.

0.40
n.2S
o. 2$
o. 14

0.03
0.04

If this amount of solid food could have been issued daily after March i, 1884, I doubt that any man
would have died from lack of food. A reduction of one-third was, however, necessary after Man:h i, and
the <fiet was restricted entirely to meat, bread, and tea, averaging probably ten ounces in all, on which diet
no deaths occurred for five weeks longer.

Care has been taken to make this statement of our ration as accurate as possible, "on the assumption
that the medical fraternity would concur in the opinion of my surgeon, that no man could live four months
on such a diet. That the party, with one exception, lived far beyond March i, the time originally fixed
as the limit of probability, seems a striking illustration of the endurance and possibilities of selected men.

After the middle of March the bread ration was gradually reduced to two ounces, and about the same
time the paity commenced eating shrimps, or sea lice, which were caught with great difficulty.

In April the tips of the purple saxifrage (Saxifraga oppositifoUa) commenced to show green, and many
ate of it in quantities, and several times a considerable amount of it was stewed for the party. Opinions
differed as to its affording any real nutrition, but in my own case it afforded a feeling of fullness which
at least alleviated the gnawings of hunger to some extent.

The effects of hunger were continuous, and at no time in nearly ten months was I personally free from
an intense desire to eat. It was, however, the greatest when food had just been taken, and greater when
we ate fifteen oun'^es a day than when we had ten.

The favorite diversion to distract us from our ills w.-is the elaboration of fanciful bills of fare. It was
noticeable that t.i.'l: of food waxed and waned according to the ration issued, there being the least talk when
the food supply was at its minimum.

The killing of a bear, in Ajjril, and of occasional birds, at intervals, afforded opportunities of increasing
and varying the diet. Later in the season a (|uantity of reindeer moss (Clationia ratigi/erina) was found from
time to time, and the buds and flowers of saxifrage were eaten.

I !

348

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

!| i

h I

There was quite a plentiful growth of lichens on the rocks, which a number of men ate as early as
Apriljbut tliesiirgeoniliscouray;e(l the use of them on the ground that the experiences of Franklin, Richardson,
Hayes, and others proved the danger of diarrhea resulting from the use of tliem. Any disease, in our
enfeebled condition, he thouglit would be fatal. Early in June, however, the remnant of the party gathered
all tliat they could of these lichens, which were, or appeared to be, very nutriiious. When > tewed they had
a slightly sweetish taste and gave out a gelatinous matter which made the water resemble thin mucilage.

Besides shrimps, sea-weed, saxifrage, reindeer moss and such lichens, resort was had to soal-skin, first
the skin without hair on, which was boiled, later the skin with hair on, which was roasted, and lastly to oil-
tanned scn.l-skin. The last remnant of our regular supplies was issued May 1 2, six weeks before our rescue.

When regular food failed and the ]iarty had recourse to sea shrimps, sea-weed, etc., the change of diet
caused relaxation in some, with attacks of diarrhea, while in others the constipation was excessive. In my
own case inflammation of the bowels was threatened, and Gardiner's death was hastened by that c;'use.
Over exertion and exposure induced in some cases marked deposits of albumen in the urine.

During the winter a small quantity of lime-juice was issued once a week, and iron was given occasionally
as the surgeon saw proper.

The cases of frost-bite during the autumn, not at all serious under other circumstances , did not heal n adily.
Frost-bites were not infrequent in the hut, and in more than one case the fro/.en limb never healed.

Steward Biederbick has well said : " The weakness of body showed itself also in mind, some of the
party being at times very petulant and childish." Two officci.i and four men displayed, on various occasions,
mental weaknesses wliich were undoul)tedIy owing to weakness of body.

The deaths, except of Jens, Rice, and Henry, were the result of starvation, though the verbal report of
the surgeon, in the cailier cases, was action of water on the heart. Cross had marked signs of scurvy, and
Christiansen less evident ones. Possibly a scorbutic taint existed in most, if not all, cases. Inflammation
of the bowels hastened Sergeant Gardiner's death, and the taking of nearly four ounces of tincture of ergot
caused Dr. Pavy, I presume, to die a day or two earlier than he otherwise would.

In nearly every case temporary wandering preceded death, which was always easy and painless, and
generally so quiet that t'' . -"act hour of dissolution was not known. Consciousness was changed to the
stage of coma with almost startling rajiidity, as in several cases the m.an commenced to eat his food with
ai)parent zest, and would pass into the unconscious state before the meal was ended.

The large numbers of letters I have received bearing on the use of spirituous liquors and tobacco in
the polar regions, indicate a wide-spread interest in the subject. My own observations are personal, having
no such weight as would those of a trained medical man, being simply those of an intelligent, unprejudiced
layman, whose perceptive faculties were sharpened by the fact that the health of the men under his charge
(and incidentally tlie success of the sledging parties) was, in a measure, affected by the use or disuse of
tiiose articles. It may be remarked that personally I do not use tobacco, and very rarely touch li(piors
except the light wines, and those not regularly.

The question of tobacco is the easiest to dispose of. Its use in moderation appeared to have no
injurious results, but, in quarters at least, conduced to quietude of mind. One of the i)arty, who used for
months (iver two ounces daily, largely in smoking, informed me that he had once been attacked by aphasia,
and tliat ])remonitory symjitoms at Conger obliged him for a time to use tobacco with greater moderation.

At least one man discontinued smoking whenever serving in the field, and all indulged in it sparingly
for one reason, perhaps, that tobacco had !o be carried on the person and not as a part of the regular rations.
It was noticed by Sergeant lirainard with one party,' and by me with another, that tobacco chewers in
the field suffered more from tliiist than others. When tobacco failed at Cajie Sabine, the men almost
invariably sullered for a time from mental tlv-pression. It h.is been commented on that four of the six non-
tobacco users in the expedition are now living, but it should be remembered that they were also temperate
men of good habits.

As to the use of rum, a small quantity of it, in ([uaiters at irregular intervals, served an excellent pur-
pose in breaking the monotony by stimulating tiie mental faculties. Some of the men would have done as
well without it, olhevs would not. It was never used regularly in the fielil, but on very few occasions when
taken during work, or in cases where it was surreptitiously obtained and drank during the day, it appeared
not only to diminish the man's power lor work, but to impair his resistance to cold, and even to interfere
with his appetite for sulid food.

During the retreat, rum was frequently, but not invariably, issued with beneficial results. Its use
appeared to greatest advantage when given just after the men entered their sleeping-bags, following an

laarr^^Ti^ >' j-fuM^lU U^

V^l^

THE LADY FRANKIilN BAY EXPEDITION.

349

xhausting day, during which matters ha<l gone badly. It then caused a mental stimulus, excited a
leeling of warmth (which with me seemed to come from iiicieaseil circulation), and also appeared to have
narcotic properties, for it induced drowsiness and greatly pnunoted sleep. Half a gill was issued at such
time, but where ui'jii received on special occasions a gill, they stateil that its beneficial results were but
slightly if at all increased.

At Camp Clay, nearly pure alcohol, diluted witli two or three times its weight i.. water, was used as
food in our dire necessity, each man receiving daily perhaps a ([uarter of an ounce of alcohol. Its cHect
was the same as described above, though acting witii greater fMrce. The general, as well as my own,
impression was that it supplemented food, and had a marked alimentary value.

It was the general opinion of the men, expressed at Cajjc S.abine, that spirits ought to be taken after
the day's labor, and not during hard work. Nearly every one, including my surgeon, who urged it in 1881-82,
' jlieved it shoiiid be a constituent of the Arctic ration. My opinion holds now, as then, that in small (pianti-
ties it is very beneficial, and shoukl be carried by all expeditions and sledge |)arties, but I think its /vyw/ffr issue
would be deleterious rather than beneficial. No sledge party ot mine ever went without spirits ; none ever used
it as a ration ; aad in the exhausting, trying journeys of tvi^o years, ranging Iroiu ten to sixty days in length, no
man ever broke ilown piiysically.

In short. Dr. iMivall, who served with Norilenskitild in Spitzbergen, expresses my opinion when he said:
" I believe s|)irituous licpiors to be of great use in small anil moderate ijuantities, but exceeilingly mischievous
and pernicious in case of the least excess."

In connection with the subjei't of scurvy, attention is invited to the fact that the dietary at Cami) Clay
was very like in its character to that at Conger. The first marked signs of scurvy were noted in tiie case of
Sergeant Cross, only a few days prior to his death, in January, 1884. The parly thus remained free from
scurvy two years and five months, and the first man, though with a constitution impaireil by free living,
only succumbed after four months' slow starvation, whereby his weight had dc( leased fully twenty-five per
centum.* The second person, Kskimo Ciirisliansen, ilied after seven months of insufficient food, having
decreased as much in weight as Cross. lUit in Christiansen's case scorbutic symptoms were scarcely detected
prior to his death, and the tlisease had made no great progress.

These points are brought forward as having a certain bearing on the iiuestion of scurvy and its causes.

The party at Cape Sabine had fresh meat, canned vegetables, ln.itter, milk, lime-juice, cloudberries, and
a less depiivation (by twenty days) of sunlight than at Conger On the I'oiUrary, it was subjected to cold,
used very great (juantities of salt water in its food, was compelled to live in a far less pure and much tlamper
atmosphere, to subsist on a ration so insutficient as to fail in repairinj.' physical waste, and to undergo the
continuous physical torture of starvation, and the eiiually great mental trial arising in many or most from
brooding over the grave uncertainties of the future.

Despite all these disadvantages at Camp Clay, no man died of scurvy alone, and practically the expe-
dition was free from the disease (hiring its three years of active service.

These exoeriences to me as a layman seem to favor the idea that scurvy, while fostered by dampness,
cold, over-exertion, and darkness, is a disease which can be obviated by proper dietary precautions ; in other
words, that it is strictly preventable, ''"his is in consonance with authoritative opinions if one may judge
from the general practice in late years, which has intrusted the outfitting of important Arctic expeditions to
committees composed of medical and ex;)erienced Arctic officers.

If it happened that health abided with the Lady Franklin Hay Expedition, and its surgeon had no
occasion to e» nnse his medical skill, save in trivial ailments cited in his reports, it is, I believe, largely
owing to strict compliance with hygienic rules laid down by moilern medical science, and to its diet com-
posed of articles approved, as peculiarly suited for arctic aliment, by the leading disciples of thnt science.

If such be the case, and hygiene is so definitely and clearly elaborated that a layman may apjily its
rules successfully, even under such disadvantages as arctic service entails, it is only anotiier instance of the
spirit and triumph of modern medicine, whicii, self-denying and generous, prefers first to instruct men how
to avoid discatie, and then, its advice contemned, to repait as best it may the neglect of the unheeding.

A. \V. Greei.v,
First /Jcultftaut, Fifth Cavalry^ A. S. O. tiiiif Assistant,

ComiiKinding I,. F. li. Fxl^edition,

* The first two cases of scurvy in the British expedition, 1S75, '76, hkewisc occurred in men " addicted to an immoderate
use of alcohol."

^^^.

350

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Api'KNDIX No. 104. — Record left at Cape liaird.

Fort Conger, Grinnei.i, Land, Mnn/i 26, 1883.

General health of party second winter better than the first. All are well at present. Following jjrin-
cipal journeys made in 1882 : Dr. Pavy's attempt to discover land' north ot Cape Josfiph Henry failed, he
being obliged to return by sea opening just, north of that cape, by which his jjarty were adrift on the i)olar
pack for a day.

Lieutenant Lockwood, accompanied by supporting man-sledge party to Cape Bryant, rouniled North
Cape [Cape Frederick] NNVV. of Britannia, and followed Hazen t oast to the NE. (true), until compelled by
want of provisions, to return, after attaining the highest latitude ever reached. He reached his farthest
(Lockwood Island, latitude 83° 23.8' north, longitude 40° 46' west). May 13, and returned to Fort Conger
June 2, 1882. Land was seen as far as 83° 33' north and 38° west, but none to the north. A photographic
map of his discoveries is herewith inclosed.

The commanding officer in April, 1882, made trips inland via Chandler Fiord and Ruggles River to
Henrietta Nesmith Glacier, which discharges into Lake Hazen, a body of water about 600 feet [183™] above
the sea, and covering an area of some 500 square miles. A second trip via Black Rock Vale in July [1882]
carried him to the summit of Mount Chester A. Arthur, whence, from an elevation of 4,500 feet [1,37 '?'"],
land was seen on a very clear day as far as vision reached. A range of mountains was seen through depres-
sion of country to the southwest which possibly was part of a land west of Grinnell Land. Photographic
map of discoveries herewith inclosed. In August [1882] the commanding officer visited Cape Cracroft in
launch Lady Grec/y, and with same boat Lieutenant Lockwood visited the head of Archer's Fiord and pen-
etrated some 12 or 15 miles into Chandler P'iord. Dr. Pavy visited Carl Ritter Bay on foot in' August and
by sledge in October, [1882] both trips overland to Cape Defosses from Cape Baird. Kennedy Channel and
Smith's Sound open as far south as could be seen in August, but Robeson Channel never clcnrcd of ice north
of St. Patrick Bay. No vessel visited station in 1882. Arrangements are being gradually made to retreat
southward by boats early in August in case no vessel arrives. Lieutenant Lockwood starts soon (probably
to-morrow), to continue his discoveries beyond Cape Robert l^incoln [Washington]. Taking two dog-sledgcs,
one as a supporting sledge, he will return about May 25, [1883].

The following are results of meteorological observations ;

tl i I

Time.

1881.

August

Se|)teml)er

October

November

December

1882.

January

Kcbruary

M.irch .

April

Miiy

June

July

Yearly means .

1882.

Aufjust

September

October .

November

December

1883.

January .

February

Mean barometer.

Inches.
29 . 842
29.802
29.891
29.760
29.710

29.717
29-754
29 738
30.151

30.130
29.930
29.714

29.845

29.810
29.741
29 -737

29 '.JS**

30 '34

29-875
29.590

757-97
756.96
759-22

755-89
754.62

754.80
755-74
755-33
765 83
765.29
760.21
754-72

758.05

757-16
755-41
755-3"
760 92

765-39
7S'-S7

Tempcratur*.

Mean,

Maximum.

Minimum.

"F.

433-3
+ 10.9

— 9.2
-24.5
-32.0

--38-3
—46.5
—29.9

— 8.6
+ •7-4
+33- »
+36.8

°C.
+ 0.7
-n.7

—2?. 9

-3«-4
-35-6

-39-«
—43-6
—34-4
— 22.6
— 8.1
+ 0.6
+ 2.7

—4.95 —20.53

+35-3
-I- 18. 1

- 7-8
-28.0
-.17.8

-35-8
-389

+ 1.8

- 7-7
— 22. 1

—a -3

—33-2

—37-7
—39-4

°F.

+45-0
30.0

-I- 9-0
+ 3-#
— 10. o

— 10. o
— 10. o

- 7.0
-1 14.0
(-36-0

I53-0
+50 o

+53-0

"C.
+ 7-2

— I.I
-12. 8

-16.1

—23-3

—23-3
—23-3
-21.7

— lo.o
4- 2.2
+ 11.7
-fio.o

°F.
-f 16.0

— lO.O

—31.0
-43.0

—52.2

—58.0
— 62.0

—47.0

— 42.0

4- i.o

+ '3-o
-1-30.0

-f48.o

+ 8.9

+ 27.0

— 2.8

H >40

--10.0

- 4.0

—20.0

+ 6.0

-14-4

-18.0

-27.8

- S-o

— 20.6

-I-II.7 —62.0

-f23-o

+ 1.0

—24.0
— 46.0

-44.0

-51-0
-56.0

°C.

- 8.9
-23-3
-35 -o
-41-7
-46.8

-50.0
-52.2

-43-9
-41 -I
-17.2
-10.6
-I.I

-52.2

- 5
-"7
-3'-
■43
-42

46. 1
-48.9

Rainfall, 188i-'82, 3.91 inches [99-3"""].

A. W. Greelv.
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant, Commanding,

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

351

This record is left by First Lieutenant A. W. Clrcely, U. S Army, who leaving Fort Conger, August 9,
1883, retreating soulhwaril with \)a.ny of twen'y-livc (:!5), all well, reaeheil Cape Uaird August 10, and
propose leaving for Littleton Island (and perhaps later Carey Islands) at 11 tj. ni., August 10, 1883, with
steam-launch and three boats.

Three photographic maps siiowing discoveries inclosed.

A. W. Gkekly,
First LieHlfnaiit, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant, Commanding,

Appendix No. 105. — Rccon^'^ left in abandoned boats.

Record left by Lieutenant Greely, conmianding I'olar Kxpedicion, en route to Littleton Island, with ultimate

intention of reaching SK. Carey Island.

I abandoned Ft. Conger, G. L., August 9, 1883, at 3 p. in., with party of twenty-five — all well. Reached
Cape Baird Aug. loth and left same evening at near midnight, launch Lady Grei-ly towing boats Valomiis,
Bniumont, and whale-boat. On board 5,500 pounds coal and over 40 days' rations.

Took.up enough at Cape Cracroft to make 45 days' rations. Had foggy weather with snow and met
some ice. Reached Carl Ritter Bay about 10 p. m. Aug. 12, and took up cache, leaving at once with
about 50 days' complete rations. Stopped by floe about 80° 43' N. morning Aug. 13th. Took up depot
of 240 rations at Cape Collinson Aug. 22d, and at i p. m., .''.ug. 23d, we tied up to ice-foot about 2
miles south of Cape Norton Shaw, stopped by dense rubble ice which exteniled as far si' :th as could be
seen. All well at that time. Reached Cape Hawkes Aug. 26th; took up 168 pounds potatoes, in pounds
pickles, 250 pounds bread, 342 stjarine. Left same afternoon and were beset that night in about 73" W.
79° 22' N. in an attempt to reach Victoria Head by direct course. All well Aug. 27, 1883. No shij)
• T sign of a ship or of depots for us have been seen, although the shore has been carefully followed and
watched. A NFl. gale forced us down to 79° 00.6' N. (obs.) 74° 45' \V (D, R.) when temperature fell
Sept. 8th to — o°.8 | — 18.2" C], freezing in the party. It is my intention to abandon launch Lady Greely and
one boat Monday Sept. loth, and reach Cape Sabine by sledge, with two boats via Cocked Hat Island.
Party all well and in good spirits at date. Have about 40 days' complete rations.

Sunday 2 p. in., Sept. 9, 1883, 79° 00.6' N., 74° 45' W.

\. W. Gkeelv,
First Lt., c,tli Car., A. S. O. and Asst,Comd'i; Expedition.

Copy of above left on steam launch and in Valorous.

It is my intention as soon as se[)aration shall be safe to send an officer and two men to Brevoort Island to

obtain reconl which shouUl be there ot" the movement of ships and location of depots this year. If boats

have been left there it will greatly facilitate our movements and increase our chances of safety.

[A. W. G.j

;ri|

; ;i

Appendix No. 106. — Records found on lircvoort Island (deposited by Lieutenant Garlington

and Private Beebe).

U. S. Relief Expedition, Cape -Sabine, 24/// fuly, 1883.
The steamer Frutew was wrecked in the ice pack midway between this point and Cape Albert on the
afternoon of the 23(1 inst., while attempting to reach Lady Franklin Bay, She stood the enormous ice press-
ure nobly for a time, but had to finally succomb \sic\ to this measureless force. The time from her being
beset to going down so short but few jjrovisions were saved. A depot was landed from floe at a point about
3 miles from point of Cape Sabine as you turn into Buchanan Straif. Here were i)ut 500 rations bread,
sleeping-bags, tea, and a lot of canned stuff — no time to classify. This cache is about 30 feet [9'"] from
water-line — 12 feet [3.6'"] above — on west side of little cove under a steep difi". Rai)idly closing ice pre-
vented its being marked by flag staff or otherwise. Have not been able to land there since. A cache of
240 rations in same vicinity left by expedition of '8i — visited by me and found in good order except boat

352

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

I;- 1'

broken by bears. There is a cache of clotliing on point of Cape S.abine opposite Brevort [su] Island— in
jamb of rocks — and covered with rubber blankets. English depot on small island in damaged condition not
visited by me. Cache on northern point Littleton Island, boat at Cape Isabella. All saved from /'/v/ei/s.
The U. S. Steame*- Yanli- is on her way to Littleton IsKind, with orders not to enter ice. A Swedish steamer
will try to reach Cape Yjrk during this month. I will endeavor to communicate with their vessel at once,
and everything in the power of man will be done to rescue the brave men at Fort Conger from their peril-
ous position.

The crew of J'ioteiis consisted of Capt. Pike and 21 men; my own party, Lieut. J. C Colwell, U.
S. Navy, Acting Assist. Surg. J. S. Harrison, 5 enlisted men of the line, 2 Sig. Serv. men, 3 Newfoundlanders,
and two Eskimo.

It is not within my power to express one-tithe of my sorrow and regret at this fatal blow to my efforts
to reach Lieut. Greely. I will leave for east shore just as soon as 'tis possible and endeavor open com-
munication.

E. A. Gari.ington,

ist Lt; "jth Cav., Comiig.

2 Siderial [sk] chros [chronometers] 1692 & 1693 and 2 Station Barometers in casche [cache].

I I

f .

I ■

S. S. Neptune, L. F. Bay Supi'lv Expedition,

"LviNG-To" Harhok, Cape Sabine, August 18, 1882.

The Neptune, under orders from (leneral W. B. Hazen, Chief Signal Officer, U. S. Army, and conveying
supplies and men to Lieut. Greely, Discovery Harbor, Grinnell Land, arrived here at one o'clock this morning
and dropped anchor in 14 fathoms.

We left St. Johns, N. F., July 8th; Disco, July 20th, and Pandora Harbor, where we had lain ?,t anchor
since the 29th July, awaiting an opening through the barrier extending across the Sound from Cape Inglefield
to Rosse Bay, on the morning of the 7th inst.

Having penetrated as far Northward as Lat. 79' 19' (Long. 73^^ 20' VV.), the ship continued closely
beset until yesterday morning, the 17th, when we worked free and stood across to the east side, where we
found the ice heavy and close in shore.

Since our arrival at Pandora Harbor, strong southerly and S. westerly (true) winds have prevailed, keep-
ing the ice firmly closed above us. We will remain in this vicinity as long as the season will permit, awaiting
an opportunity to resume the voyage.

In the event of failure to reach Lieut. Greely's party, depots will be established at the northernmost
points attained on the west side Smith Sound or Kennedy Clhannel, and on Littleton Island. A whale-boat
will be left at the northmost depot, and one at Cape Prescott.

This morning Captain Nare's Record, dated August i, 1875 (a cojjy of which is enclosed), was found
in the cairn on the summit of Brevoort Island.

The original will be forwarded through the Chief Signal Officer, U. S. A., to the Secretary of the
Admiralty, London.

All are well.

W. M. Bebee, ]x., [Private], G. S., U. S. A.,
In charge 0/ Expedition.
Freu'k II. Hoadley, M. D.,

• A, A. Surgeon, U. S. A.
William Sopp,

Capt. Neptune.

S. S. Neptune, Paver Harbor (Cape Sabine), August 23, 1882.
Sir: The Neptune, with men and supplies for your party, sailed from St. Johns, N. F., July i8th, and
reached Godhavn on Hie 17th, having been detained for forty-eight hours off Cape Farewell by heavy
field-ice. Excepting the sleeping-bags and matak, all the supplies required from Greenland were secured.
Through the courtesy of the officials at Godhavn, four (4) sleeping-bags (their individual property) and a
small quantity (47 lbs.) of matak were obtained.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

353

Leaving Disco on the 20th, we were beset for forty-eight hours oflf Cape York, and on the morning of
the 29th were stopped by an impenetrable barrier, exteu'iing from Cape Inglefield to Rosse Bay, across the
Sound. A strong S. westerly gale compelled us to ieW back to Pandora Harbor for anchorage, where
we remained until August 7th, when we succeeded in reaching a position off Bache Island, where the ship
was again caught and beset for nine days.

On the morning of the 17th, taking advantage of a slight opening, we worked our way clear and stood
across to the east side; but finding no channel, returned and anchored in this bay — between Cape Sabine
and Brevoort Island.

In a cairn on the summit of Brevoort Island, Captain Nare's record, dated August ist, 1875, was found,
and on a long, low island lying near to and nearly due west (true) from Brevoort Island, a small depot left
by Captain Stephenson of the Discovcty, with a record dated July 30th, 1875. This depot, which has been
disturbed and scattered, apparently by animals, was restored as securely as possible, and marked by placing
upright in the rocks two oars found there with the remains of a skin boat. The stores, consisting of five
casks, containing biscuit, chocolate and sugar, tea and sugar, stearine, wicks, potatoes, onion powder,
tobacco, matches, salt, pepper, and two tin cans of bacon (40 lbs. each), were found in fairly good con-
dition. Three small spirit casks were leaky and empty. Coming from the northward, and Brevoort Island
fairly opening, this small island can be plainly seen between Cape Sabine and Brevoort Island.

We leave this harbor immediately, in the hope of reaching at least as far north as Bache Island, when,
if we can get no further, I shall establish your depot "A", and leave the second whaleboat at Cape Prescott.

I prepare this record now in anticipation of having little time to land and establish the depot, as the
winds which have prevailed for the past two weeks from the SW. render position in the ice precarious.

20 Miles due East (true) from Bache Island, August 2%th.

Every effort to reach land on this shore above Cape Sabine has thus far proved utterly unsuccessful,
and as the new ice is forming every night faster than it disappears during the day, I fear that I cannot
establish your depot "A" as high up even as Bache Island, nor can I get a whale-boat to Cape Prescott.
To-day I will run across and land stores and lumber at Littleton Island, and then wait until compelled
by lateness of season to fall back, in effort to establish depots and land whale-boats where they will be of
value to you.

Unless the northmost depot shall be in sight of Cape Hawkes, I will return your mail to the States,
excepting papers and periodicals, which will be left at Littleton Island.
All your friends were well when I left Washington.

I cannot express my regret at the failure of all my efforts to reach you, or to carry out fully your
instructions of last year.

Trusting that you may be providentially protected, and return in safety,

I am, very respectfully, your obt. servant, *

W. M. Beebe, Jr.,
\PrivcUe\, General Service, U. S. A,,

In charge of Supply Expedition,
To Lieut. A. W. Greelv, U. S. Army,

Commanding Lady Franklin Bay Expedition. " .

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♦ ■ S. S. Neptune, Aug. 29, 1882.

Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Comdg. Lady Franklin Bay Expedition: ' -

The Neptune has been in Smith's Sound endeavoring to reach you since July 29th, but unable to pen-
etrate the ice. Strong winds and gales from S. W. have prevailed, but have not freed the shore. Highest
latitude reached, Aug. 10th, 79° 20', with eight (8) miles of impassable ice between us and land (Bache
Island).

We land a boat here with great difficulty. Shall hold on until compelled by lateness of season to fall
bsick, in the hope of carrying out your wishes regarding depots and whale-boats.
H. Mis. 393 23

354

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

A party of nine (9) natives were found on Cape Ohlsen yesterday while looking for a place to cache
supplies on Littleton Island. If they are still there when we return, I think best to cache supplies on north
side (true) of Littleton Island, opposite Mt. Carey Island.

Your mail will be returned to the StateS; as directed in your letter of last year. All your friends well
when I left Washington.

I shall recommend and earnestly urge that next year's relief ship may leave St. John's as early as the
middle of June.

I am, very respectfully, your ob't servant,

W. M. Beebe, Jr.,
\Private\, G. S., U. S. A., in Charge of Exped'n,

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Appendix No. 108. — Sergeant Frederick's report of November journey to Cape Isabella.

Washington, D. C, Noiiember 25, 1884.

Sir : I have the honor to respectfully submit the following report of a journey made by Rice, Linn,
Elison, and myself, under your orders, for the purpose of securing 144 lbs. of meat left on Cape Isabella,
in 1875, by Sir George Nares, commanding the English expedition.

November 2, 1883. — We left Camp Clay about 8 a. m. Our equipment was as follows: A light sledge,
one four-man sleeping-bag, one tent-fly, one Springfield rifle, an ax, and 8 oz. of bread and 8 oz. of meat
per man per day ; lamp and pot for cooking, with alcohol for fuel. The morning being very hazy, making
traveling very hard for the first few miles; but, as we approached Cocked Hat Island the day cleared up
and traveling was very good, and as we reached Rice's Straits it began to get dusk again, but about one hour
later, when we stood before the hunter's camp and cast our eyes on a beautiful plump seal, weighing about
80 or 90 lbs., I am sure it was good cure for sore eyes, for we imagined that we could see a mile farther.
We could see in the distance Long coming to meet us. The poor fellow was covered with frost, but he
smiled just the same as he would if he was in the land of plenty, and told us that his rations were gone
and that the Eskimos was discontented. I told Long that he had better go in, as the days were getting
so dark and the temperature so low that it made it quite dangerous to stand over a seal-hole all day, and I
also told him that the commander expected him. We then bid our dear companions good-bye, and we
plodded along for a few miles farther and went into camp. After taking a light supper we retired to cur
bag and was soon in the land of dreams.

November 3, 1883. — Broke camp at 7.30 a.m. Very dark and foggy, making traveling very hard.
About 1 1 o'clock we reached a small lake on the divide between Elison Bay and Rosse Bay, where we
halted for a few moments. Dropping down in Elison Bay we found traveling good. We reached Eskimo
Point about 6 p. m., very tired, but every one feeling that we could make Cape Isabella to-morrow.

November 4, 1883. — Broke camp about 6.30 a. m., every one feeling good after their night's rest, and
also believing that they would be able to reach their destination before night ; bat about 10 a. m. we found
our traveling growing worse every step we made to the south. About 12 m. we found Elison eating snow
and ice, and Rice spoke to him, but of no avail. We led more to the west for an easier route, but
it seems no matter what way we headed the traveling was all the same. About 3.30 p. m. Linn and Elison
complained of being tired and wanted to go into camp, but we kept on until it got so dark that it was
impossible to travel any longer. So we camped about 6 p. m., every one so tired and worn out that it was
impossible to move our limbs. How far or how close we was to Cape Isabella or the coast line was unknown
to us, owing to drifting snow, which had completely obscured the surrounding country.

November 7, 1883. — Broke camp about 7 a. m., the weather fine and clear. We got a drink of tea and
started for Cape Isabella. We took our sledge and equipment with us part of the way, and then the
only suitable place that we found to drop the equipment was on the summit of a glacier where we intended
to camp the coming night. We then went on with the sledge only, as our track was very tortuous, and,
moreover, we had not a foot of level traveling. Huge masses of ice, from 20 to 40 feet [6 to i2'"J in height,
were heaped together, around which the fierce winds of winter had piled the drifting snow. In crossing these
ridges our sledge would frequently capsize and roll over and over; sometimes the sledge would be half buried
in the soft snow, mto which it had fallen, in which case its liberation would be attended with great difficulty.
We reached Cape Isabella about 2 p. m., and, after ascending about 1,000 feet [305'"], we found the meat.

Appendix No. 107. — Plan of winter quarters at Camp Clay.

Stone Init about 25' ><; 17'. Wall 3j^ feet high. lioat extended from one end of wall to tlie other, and allowed one to
stand up between thwarts, in passage way. Oars inserted in liolos cut in gunwale and ends resting on side walls allowed house
to be covered with canvas, which was also partly supported l)y interwoven ropes. .V and 1!, upriglu su[i]i()rls to boat : on A, lamp
for light and melting ice; on li, barometer. Cooking done in center of ]iassagc. Twelve men Iiad space 6' X 2' l" for
sleeping and living iiuarters; thirteen, owing to Elison's condition, had only l' 10" x 6' for sleeping and living (juarters.

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THE LADY FRANKLIN 15AY EXrEDITION.

355

We picked up the cache at once and started for the sledge, which had been left at the extreme point of the
capp. Rice and myself was the first ones to reach the sledge. We started back at once to help Linn and
Elison down with their load, and we started back as' soon .is time would allow us.

As you see from my writing that our road was rough, but the sky was clear and the moon was shining,
and from the elevation to which we had ascended — 1,000 feet [305'"] — we saw open water to the southward
as far as the eye could extend. Waves with white caps came rolling in to the very cape [Isabella] itself; a
vessel could have navigated here without difficulty, and even at this season, could we have embarked at this
point, I have no doubt but that we all would have reached our homes in safety. We were in hopes that we
should reach our camp all right, but remember that we traveled all day on a small cup of tea and worked
hard and had to face strong western wind, and we found to our sorrow after traveling 12 or 14 hours, on
reaching our camp on the glacier, that Elison had frozen both of his hands and feet. Now, it must be
remembered that we had no shelter of any kind, nor were we able to light a match or to keep the lamp
burning, and without a mouthful of warm food we retired to our frozen sleeping-bag, which was no more
nor less than a sheet of ice. Now I took one of Elison's hands and placed it between my thighs, while Rice
took the other, and this is the way we drew the frost from his poor frozen limbs. The poor fellow cried all
night with pain. This has been one of the worst nights that I ever spent in the Arctic.

November 8, 1883. — We got up about 7 a. m. without having slept during the entire night. Elison
looking very bad, we got some warm food, picked up our traps and started on our homeward journey. The
morning was very hazy, making traveling very bad. Elison got along very nice for the first few hours, but
when he began to weaken, his steps grew slower, and the result was that his hands and feet both frosted.
Now it became unsafe to let him travel behind the sledge alone, and so I took the poor fellow on my arm
and had almost to carry him, for his legs became as stiff as sticks of cord wood, and he was unable to handle
them. This is the closest I have ever been hitched in my life. If there is anything that will try the mettle of
men it is to put them in soft snow and hummock ice and a nie-radily over their shoulders; but nevertheless
we stood it like men and I never heard a murmur of discontent. We traveled on till about 5 p. m., when
It became so dark that it forced us to go into camp. We unloaded our frozen sleeping-bag and then put the
frozen man into it. Rice and Linn wedged themselves on each side of him and I stepped out to prepare
some warm food for them; it was as dark as pitch. A strong breeze from the northwest. The air was filled
with snow and it was with the greatest of difficulty that I got some warm food for my poor starving and frozen
companions. Had we a little shelter only, our work would not have been so trying, but to halt and lay
your sick on an open field of ice and nothing to shelter them from the Arctic breeze, that has a fair sweep
over this open plain, was trying to us indeed.

Nwember 9, 1883. — I got up this morning about 7 a. m. to prepare some warm food for my comrades,
which they enjoyed very much, and after Rice and Linn got uj), we found that Elison was altogether help-
less, and to save Elison's life it became necessary to abandon the meat which we had labored so to save, and
marked the place well with a Springfield rifle. We got along very well for the first few hours, but as we all
grew weaker every hour with a helpless man on our hands, you can imagine our progress; but after battling
along for about 9 or 10 hours we reached Eskimo Point, where we camped for the night. We com-
menced at once to cut some wood from the ice-boat to thaw Elison out with and to dry his clothing, which
was a perfect sheet of ice, and in the mean time we cooked our supper, though the poor fellow suffered when
his feet, hands, and face began to thaw from the artificial heat. It was enough to bring the strongest to
tears. Rice and myself did not retire until about i a. m. We tried to get everything in shape for the fol-
lowing day.

November 10, 1883. — Broke camp about 8 a. m., Elison looking much better. The morning being
very cold we started Elison out at once to keep from freezing, but we found that he could not keep on the
track; so Linn went with him while Rice and myself packed our traps on the sledge and followed. When
we caught up we found that Elison bad frozen his face and hands again. Traveling was very heavy and
Linn had to come and help to drag the sledge. Now we tried to keep Elison in front of us, but of no avail.
He would stagger off to one or the other, but it seems that every moment the frost would eat its way deeper
in the poor man's flesh, and we stood helpless at his side.

The load was too heavy for two men to drag, and it was impossible to let poor Elison travel by him-
self. So we fastened a rope to his arm and then to the sledge, and the three of us took to the traces and
tried to make time, but every few rods the poor fellow would fall, and then sometimes before we could see
him we would drag him for several feet. There is no person that can imagine the way that poor man suf-

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356

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

fered. Now when we got in Elison Bay, wind blowing a hurricane, and it getting very dark, and we saw
that there is no earthly hope to try to drag along, for wc see that poor Elison would perish on our hands
before we could get him to Camp Clay, so here we went into camp. I was to remain with Klison and
Linn in the sleci)ing bag. Rice and myself tried to make a fire or light the lamp to warm some food, but
as the wind was blowing so hard and we could find no shelter, we both frosted our fingers and had to give
it up, and poor Rice took a piece of frozen meat and started for Camp Clay, which was about 15 miles. As
Rice bid us good-bye with tears in his eyes, we clasped his hand and wished him speed. Now I took the
ax and cut a small piece of frozen meat for my comrades, and then got in the sleeping-bag to put in the
wretched night. Linn laid on one side of Elison and I on the other trying to keep him warm, but as we
laid here helpless and shivering with the cold and poor Elison groaning with hunger and pains, so you can
imagine how we felt lying powerless at his side. Linn was a strong and able-bodied man, and he was very
weak and helpless by the mental strain caused by the suffering of Elison. In fact I was afraid that his
mind would be impaired. At one time I had to use all my persuasive powers to keep him in the sleeping-
bag. We were but a very few hours in the bag when it became frozen so hard that we could not turn in it,
and in the one position we had to lie for about 18 hours, and to our great relief and joy we heard Brainard's
cheering voice at our side. There was nothing more welcome than the presence of that noble man who had
come in advance of the party with some brandy for Elison an<l some food for Linn and myself. After pre-
paring some warm food and making some warm tea and giving it to us he said that he would return to meet
Lieutenant Lockwood and party and return as quickly as possible. Brainard was accompanied by Fred-
erik [Christiansen], the Eskimo.

Now we felt much better to know that Rice had got back all right and that a relief party would soon
be here. ' It was not long before Brainard returned again; he gave us some more warm food and in about
2 hours Lieutenant Lockwood and party were with us. It was a Godsend to be released from this prison.
It was impossible for them to get us out of the bag the way we got in, so it became necessary to chop the
top of the bag off with a hatchet to release us. We were unable to stand alone; our clothing was as stiff
as boards ; our companions helped us to dress and gave us dry gloves and stockings to put on. Linn and
myself began walking around to limber up. Now as we were no use to the party they wanted us to go in,
as they had to move very slowly with the frozen man on the sledge. Linn and myself started for camp, and
we got along very well until we reached Buchanan Strait, where I broke through and got my feet wet. I
noticed shordy after that Linn was eating snow and his steps became much slower. I was frightened that
it would be another Elison case. I spoke to him about it and showed him the importance of abstaining
from eating snow, and in a few hours we brought up at Camp Clay. I am sure that there is not a reader
of this report that could find a parlor half so inviting in his city as this small ice hut was to me. As we
entered we found our companions with stretched arms to welcome us, and our commander ordered the
hospital steward to give us rum, and then Biederbick took off some of our wet clothing and gave us dry ones
to put on, and after getting some warm food I assure you that I felt much better, and I will never forget the
kindness that was bestowed on me by my comrades on that eventful day.

Respectfully submitted.

Your obedient servant,

Julius R. Frederick,
Sergeant, Signal Corps, U. S. A.

Lieut. A. W. Greely,

Commanding the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.

Appendix No. 109. — Lieutenant Kislingbtiry'' s letter, February ip, 1884.

Camp Clay, February 19, 1884.

Lieutenant : Ten days ago I agreed to give you certain suggestions in reference to our preparations
for changing to Greenland side, and I beg permission to submit the following in reference to that subject,
and our circumstances generally :

The course I would then have suggested has already been adopted — that of placing in the management
and supervision of making hand and foot gear, and repairing of sleeping-bags, Private Fredericks, who,
from his former excellent work in these matters, and past week's successful efforts, is, I think, the best possible
arrangements

THK JiADY FUANKMX HAY FAI'KDITIOX.

357

Without going into details, circumstances different to what we ex|)ected have so changed the original
plans decided upon at the time of entering on reduced rations, that the original intentions (crossing to
Littleton Island the first of March, for instance), need, I feel, reconsideration. You have doubtless nicely
considered and arranged everything satisfactorily, and as well as can be for our future, but notwithstanding
this, I feel it my duty to make my ideas at this time matters of record, and beg you will not consider me
as interfering in your prerogatives as commander. The open water at date permits no communication with
Littleton Island, and we cannot reasonably expect relief from, or to cross to, that point on the ist March,
as before arranged.

There is no certainty as to the time we can expect the channel to close, and although we have every
reason to congratulate ourselves on our present favorable condition, considering our probably unprecedented
experience, we have, at date, two invalids, both of whom will probably have to be hauled by sledge, and
there are several others of the party whose strength cannot be safely cotinted ujjon even to walk across.
Briefly, I do not believe it possible for the party, on our present means, to ever expect to cross as a party at
one time, and I ^ee no other way than to arrange and hope to get relief by a party from the other side, or
to prolong our lives by extending food longer than we first intended.

With this end in view, I would advocate no further increase of our food. Finally, if relief from the
Greenland coast does not reach us, I see nothing left to do, soon as we find water space closed, but for a
few of the stronger of us to go to Littleton Island with one of the sledges, get supplies or game, as we can
there, and bring to those here who are too weak to cross; expecting, of course, to open communication and
get help from the Eskimos. One at least of our natives should go with this party, and feeling myself to be
one of the strongest, I would expect to be sent in charge of the same.
Very truly and respectfully,

Freu. F. Kislingburv,
Second Lieutenant, Eleventh Infantry, A. S. 0.

Lieutenant A. W. Greelv,

Commanding Expedition,

Appendix No. no. — Private Long^ s journey into Hayes Sound.

[* Extract from the journal of Lieut. A. W, Greely, referring to discoveries made by Private Francis Long in Hayes Sound during

March, 1884.]
*««« * * « « «

March 14, 1884, Friday. — Private Long returned at 7.15 p. m. last night, having seen during his three
daya' absence no signs of game, except a fox track which had been made across his trail in Rice's Strait
during his absence. He was driven in by not having been able to get into his sleeping-bag during his
absence. Leaving Camp Clay at 9 a. m. of the 12th, lie overtook Sergeant Rice and Private lillis hauling
his sledge at the east end of Cocked Hat Island. Saw a raven, but was unable to get a shot. At 11.30
a. m. took sledge with Christiansen at the west end of Cocked Hat Island and started towards Alexandra
Harbor. Reached Cape Rutherford at a p. m. and found that its apparent end was an island, about 800
yards [732""] distant from land. This island was crossed by him on his outward trip. About two miles
southeast (true) passed a very low island, which was about i V2 miles distant from land. Just before reach-
ing Cape Viele he saw u valley, which, sloping gently upward, appeared to furnish a route towards Twin
Glacier Valley. He concluded to take the valley, as the snow along the ice-foot was becoming deep. The
ice to this point was all smooth and appeared to be new ice. The ice in Buchanan Strait was as far as
could be seen smooth and favorable for traveling — level floes and few or no hummocks. Before reaching
the valley above mentioned he reached a camp on west side of the small island southeast of Viele ; at 7
p. m. cooked supper, and at 8 p. m. attempted to turn into bag. Found sleeping-bag frozen up so badly
that, after three^ hours' exertions, was able to get into bag only up to breast. There being no winci, con-
cluded to sleep out. Unable to get any sleep and freezing out about 2 a. m,, March 13, concluded to get
up and go on, which was done without cooking anything. Got to point near Viele, when tea was made,
some bacon being eaten on the way.

* This account, having been written in full from Sergeant Long' 1 statements at the time, presents the discoveries more
accurately than can any present or elaborate statement, — A. W. G.

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THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXl'EDITION.

At about 8 a. m., Marrh 13, sf:irtc(! up the valley near Cape Vicle, taking some hard bread and pem-
inicai) ill their pockets, leaving sleiige and sleeping bag ai\(l cooking apparatus anil rum at (imp. 'look
medicine, however. Siar<:cly any vegetation in valley, 'i'raveieil up about three or foi' miles when he
struik tiie iie — a regular glacier — the north one which terminates in 'I'win (ilacier Valley. H id no trouble
crossing the glacier. Found that the whole country around was ice cap])ed, there being only a small piece
of high land visible between the Twin (llaciers. Found that the ice-cap ran down to the southeast, evi-
ilently forming the glacier which ends in Rosse May. From the highest point east of I'win (ilacier Valley
had an excellent view to the northwest, and carefully examined the country with his glasses. Uache Island
terminated in low land, and to the southwest of it w.is a small rocky island resembling in its structure very
much that of Cocked JIat Island. Princess Marie H.iy ap|)eared to conned with Hayes Sound.

All of the western end of Uache Island is low ground, rendering it dilKicult to say just where the lanil
ended and water commenced. Some distance in rear of Capes Maker and Stephens the land rose gradually,
and a range of low mountains or very high land was seen, which however presented to his view no particu-
larly prominent peaks. Could see the entire west side of Alexandra Fiord, but the valleys or gaps were fdled
with snow and no signs of game anywhere visible. Followed the ice-cap around and descended to water's
edge near the head of the (iord. A large glacier terminated the head of the fiord, and about a mile and a
half from the glacier was a low island at right angles to the hea<l and nearly extending across the fiord.
Climbed up the we • side of fiord anil attempted to cross the country between Mount Carey and the mount-
ains to the southwest. Met very stee|) cliffs of some 2,000 feet (610'") elevation, which prevented his jiassage.
To the southwest tl e country w.as ice-cappod and afforded no chance for game. After nine hours' steady
travel he reached a point north (true) of Mount Carey, from whence he w.is able to look to the westward
into Hayes Sound. Fiom Uache Island, commencing with Cape Stevens, he counted five capes on the north
side of the Sound. On the south side the land was very high, with valleys filled with snow or ice running
into the sound. About twenty miles to the westward high land was visible, and the coast line trending to
the northwest, the sound appeared to terminate and the two coasts (north and south) to unite, but of this
he could not be certain. The weather was then clear to the west but somewhat ha/.y towards Cape Stephens.
W hile the high land to the westward appeared to thus shut out the sound, yet the distance was such that
he felt no certainty about it. Owing to the F'.skimo being somewhat demoralized by the prospects, he con-
cluded to return to the bag, which was doiic as direct as possible.

Reached Cape Viele at 10 p. m., having; been absent fourteen hours and having had only four ounces
pemmican and a few ounces of hard bread during the time. Cooked some tea and a;tem])ted to turn in.
After tea, as F^skimo wished to return at once to station, he concluded to start on. Traveled an hour and
then went into camp, /. <■., bag. Tried to get into bag, but could only get in up to breasts. After being in
bag about threeijuarters of an hour, Long was taken sick with cramps and was much exhausted. Christian-
sen got out, heated some rum, and gave it to Long, with some spirits of ammonia. The medicine soon set
Long right. Christiansen remained out of bag and i)ulled flap over Long. Christiansen made tea, and after
that and eating four ounces bacon started about 5 a. vn. for Camp Clay. At Cocked Hat Island, 2 p. m,,
being very much exhausted, stopped and had tea and four ounces pemmican. Reached Camp Clay at 7.15
p. m., March 13, quite exhausted, but in no wise injured or frost-bitten.

Appendix No. hi. — Sergeant Frederick'' s report of journey to Baird Inlet ^ Aprils 1884.

WASHiNGTpN, D. C, December 2\, 1884.

Sir : I have the honor to respectfully submit the following report of a voluntary journey made by Ser-
geant Rice and myself in the month of April, 1884, for the purpose of recovering the F.nglish beef aban-
doned by us the fall previous.

About the middle of March, Rice and myself volunteered our services for this trip to the commanding
officer, who, seeing the dangers that would attend such a journey, would not at first consent; but as Rice
and myself kept on talking about it daily, and most everybody thought it would add to our chances of life
if we could recover this iiieat, Lieutenant Greely reluctantly gave his consent about April i.

TIIK hAUY FRANKLIN HAY KXrHDITlOS.

359

life

In justice to the heroic dead and living;, I must state that Rice and myself were not the only ones to
volunteer, but every one else expressed his willingness to go; but as Rice and myself hail been with the
party that was compelled to abandon the meat in the fall, and as our health, if not better, was at least as
good as any one else's, it was thought that our chances of success were the best.

Sergeant Rice and myself left the camp about lo p. m. on April the 6th. Our outfit consiste<l of one
small sledge, one two-man sleeping-bag, and one Remington ritle with ammunition, one ax, one alcohol
lamp and pot for cooking, and alcohol for fuel ; our allowances of rations were six ounces of pemmican and
six ounces of bre.id daily. We carried besides a small ({uantity of brandy, some pills, and a small vial of
aromatic s|)irits of ammonia for m':dical purposes.

Lieutenant Kislingbury, Sergeant Urainard, Ellis, and Whisler had during the day pulled our equip-
ments to the brow of the island, a distance of about 4 miles, from where they relumed very much exhausted.
The good wishes and prayers of all the party went with us, and three as hearty cheers as their weak condi-
tion would allow, followed us through the narrow entrance.

A fresh wintl was blowing, which increased to a perfect gale by the time wc reached the sledge. We
went down the hill very fast and took a good many tumbles till we reached Rosse Hay. We were com-
pelled to stoj) traveling about 8 a. m. on account of wind and ilrifting snow. We unrolled our sleeping-bag
on the ice, and after partaking of a piece of fro/en pemmican crawled into it, and were compelled to remain
motionless for 32 hours during a raging snow-storm.

^/>n/ 8. — We dug our way thr )ugh the snow drift that had formed around our sleeping-bag. About

6 a. m. started at once, as we were too cold to sto|) and cook. After about an hour's travel we found our-
selves sufficiently warmed up to stop for some warm food, which revived us very much. The traveling was
good, only a fresh breeze blowing and light snow falling, which made it hard in our weak condition. About

7 p. m. it became so dark and blustering that we were compelled to draw our sledge up between a large ice-
berg and the foot of a glacier near Eskimo Point for shelter.

April q, left camp about 7 a. m. The morning was calm and the sky clear, the traveling was very good,
and we reached Eskimo Point in about an hour. Here we abandoned our slee|)ing-bag, hoping to be able
to travel so much faster with the lighted sledge. We searched closely for the tracks of the previous fall, but
were unable to see anything of them. Aftei passing into Elison Bay yesterday we found that in places
where the ice was smooth in the fall it was now very rough, and vice versa. Evident signs that it had been
broken up since our last journey. ' We found pools of open water between the grounded icebergs, which
threw us out of our course sometimes as much as a mile. Our feet got wet and froze when we stepped on
dry ice or snow. To add to our misfortunes a heavy wind sprang up from the northwest about 1 1 a. m.
with a thick snow drifting, so that we were unable to see any distance, and at 3 p. m. we thought that we
were at the place where the meat was abandoned the previous fall, but notwithstanding an extended and
very careful search, we failed to our great disappointment and sorrow to discover any tracks or traces which
would go to indicate the spot where it had been left. At this juncture I proposed to Rice to up-end our
sledge and return to our sleeping-bag for the night and resume our unsuccessful search on the morrow. But
Rice thinking that the weather would clear up, thought that our best chance of success would be to remain
on the spot.

I discovered about 4 p. m. that Rice was weakening. I therefore reminded him of the agreement made
before leaving Camp Clay, that in case either of us should show signs of exhaustion his comrade should tell
him, in order that necessary steps might be taken to prevent disaster, and I again urged upon Rice the
necessity of returning to the sleeping-bag for rest and shelter.

But he said that he was only a little tired, and would soon recover by traveling a little slow. After a
short time, however, I could plainly see that Rice was weakening rapidly, and observing an iceberg about
1,000 yards [914'"] to the west of us, I urged upon Rice to reach it in order to obtain at least a partial shelter.
We fortunately accomplished this. By this time he was almost completely exhausted. 1 gave him some
brandy and spirits of ammonia, which seemed to revive him. I now lighted the lamp and prepared some
warm food for him ; after having eaten it and drunk a cup of warm tea I endeavored to start him, in order to
keep him from freezing, but it was all in vain. His condition was becoming alarming. He was too weak
to stand up, and his mind seemed to be taken up with recollections of his relatives and friends at home, of
whom he spoke, and he also kept talking of the diflerent meals he would eat when he should have reached
home. He seemed to realize his critical condition, for he asked me, in case he should die here and I were to
survive, to send his manuscripts to the New York Herald, and his personal effects to his relatives. We

III

360

TUE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

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remained here on this desolate piece of ice, with the wind blowing a hurricane, for two hours or more, after
which time ir.y poor heroic companion lost consciousness. 7. did everything for him that my limited means
permitted. I wrapped him up in my temiak in order to keep him as warm as possible, and remained on the
sledge amidst the drifting snow with my unconscious friend in my arms until 7.45 p. m., when poor Rice
passed away. My situation can be easier imagined than described. Here I was left alone with the body
of my friend in an ice-bound region, out of reach of help or assistance. The death of my companion under
these circumstances made a deeper impression on my mind than any experience in my whole life. As here I
stood, completely exhausted, by the remains of poor Rice, shivering with the cold, unable to bury the remains,
hardly able to move, I knew that my chances to reach Eskimo Point, which was about 7 miles to the
north, were small indeed. I was completely disheartened ; I felt more like remaining here and perishing by
the side of my companion than to make .-nother effort, but the sense of the duty which I owed to my country
and companions and to my dead comrade to bear back tho sad tidings of the disaster, sustained me in this
trial. I stooped and kissed the remains of my dead companion, and left then; there for the wild winds of the
Arctic to sweep over,

I traveled to the north, and after 7 hours of hard travel I reached the sleeping-bag completely ex-
hausted. I found the bag frozen stiff as a piece of cord-wood, and in my weak condition I was unable to
unroll it, and I thought surely that I should have to perish here; but, as fortune would have it, I found in my
pocket a small vial which contained a few drops of ammonia, which 1 took. This revived me so that it ena-
bled me to get into the bag, where I lay until the following morning. I then hustled out, about 8 a. m. ; got
some warm food, and starter^ back to bury the remains of my companion. This morning being very bright
I found the traveling much easier than last night. When I reached the gloomy spot where lay the remains
of poor Rice, thinking that he might have something on his person which ought to be returned to his relatives,
I searched his clothing, and found several small articles, which I delivered to the commanding officer.

I then began the difficult task of digging a grave for the remains of ray poor friend, which was
accomplished after hard labor of several hotirs. I had no shovel, only an ax, and the loose ice I had to
remove with my hands, and it is here, on a paleocrystic Hoe, that I laid the remains of one who was so dear
to me. Here, in this icy grave, I leave my comrade, and will endeavor to carry back the sad news to our
companions. After a few hours I again reached Eskimo Point, where I camped for the night.

Now it became a question of vital importance to me how I was to reach Camp Clay in my enfeebled
condition. I was unable to travel eight or nine hours in one sLretch, for after the first three or four hours,
I should move so slow that I would freeze in my tracks. I therefore resolved to take the alcohol which we
carried for fuel, dilute it with water, and take ,1 small quantity of it whenever I lay down, sv • I would go to sleep
at once.

April 10, 1884. — I broke camp about 7 a.m.; picked up all my traps, and started for Camp Clay.
After pulling, hauling, and stumbling for about four hours, I became so tired that I had to go into camp. I
turned my sledge upside down, and stretched the sleeping-bag between the runners, and took a small drink
of diluted alcohol. I was then soon in the land of dreams, and after lying here for about three or four
hours, I woke up completely chilled. I then picked up my traps and traveled until I was thoroughly warm,
when I stopped and prepared some food. By the time this was done and the scanty meal eaten, I was
chilled again. I would then start again and travel until I was thoroughly warm and tired out; then I would
go into camp and repeat the Jose of alcohol. When I arrived at the divide between Elison and Rosse Bay
I found that I was not able to drag my load over it. I therefore fastened a rope to the sleeping-bag and
drew it over first. I then went back for the sledge in this tiresome and laborious way, and in my weak
condition, I worked my way back towards Camp Clay, from the 9th to the 13th.

When I reached Camp Clay I met Sergeant Brainard at the entrance of our small ice hut; he at once
asked for P.ice, and when I informed him that Rice had peiished he exclaimed: " My God! It is too bad;
for we have just killeti a bear, which would liave enabled us all to pull through. I am very sorry; " and
with a broken heart he entered the hut and reported the disaster, which brought one and all to tears.

The commander ordered rum for me, which was given to me by Biederbick. I then told them of the
trials and hardships and the death of poor Rice ; I never have seen any party take anything more to heart
than this disaster. After having listened to my narrative they gave me the sorrowful news of the death of
Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeants Jeweli and Linn, who had perished in my absence. My pen is
inadequate to describe the scene in that miserable i,now hut, when, after an absence of seven days in the

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THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

361

fruitless search for stores abandoned in the ice, I had to report the failure of the expedition, the death of a
rherishec' and brave companion, and to be informed of the death of three as good and brave men as ever
faced the dangers and privations of arctic coUl and darkness in the exertion of their duty to tiieir country.
If presenting this report I beg to express my regret that I have not been able to dc >at an earlier date.
You will, I trust, excuse both the delay and the deficiency.
Respectfully submitted.

Your obedient servant,

Julius R. Frederick,
Sergt,, Signal Corps, U. S. A.
Lieut. A. W. Greely,

Fifth Cav., A. S. O. ami Assf.,

Commaniiing L. F, B. Expedition,

Appkndix No. 112. — Lieutenant Kislingbury^s letter^ April 22^ 1884.

Camp Clav, ^/nV 22, 1884.
My Dear Lieutenant; Dr. Pavy has officially .advised me of his recommendation to you not at
present to reduce the allowance below one pound of meat per day, and that you could not sanction his
recommendation. You have again placed the daily allowance of meat at ten ounces. Our hard bread is
two ounces per day. The shrimp allowance is ample, but I fear from our rec'> it and present weakened con-
dition, depending so much as we have on them, that they do little more than relieve the direct pangs of
hunger, and give little strength, nourishment, or warmth to our poor we.ikened systems. The party, on the
whole, were gradually gaining on the one pound of meat, but are now again losing strength, and I fear lor
the result if the decreased allowance continues. You are, I know, doing everything for the best, and I have
but one desire, to help you all I possibly can in this trying ordeal through which your responsibilities as com-
manding officer carry you. We cannot enter into the nuestion thoroughly now. Your sufferings this
morning and weakened condition alarm me. Our stronger men are gradually \,eakening. The increase
to one pound will make but a fe»v d.ays' differenr" in the shortening of the time our present supply would
subsist us. I have well considered the matter, and as your second officer I strongly urge that the meat
allowan :e be agairt increased to one pound per day. This will, I believe, carry us along gradually improving,
and before our present supply is exhausted we should find ourselves safely passed through the coldest weather
and at a time when seals and birds will be more numerous and more readily procurable.
I am, truly, your obedient servant,

Frederick F. Kisunohurv,
Second Lieutenant, EltTenth Infantty, A. S. O.
First Lieutenant A. W. Greely,

Commanding Expedition,

Appendix No. 113. — Letter of Dr. Pavy,^ April 2^^ 1SS4.

Camp Clay, F.llesmere Land, April 25, 1884.
Sir: The health of the command at this time at the morning inspection is as follows: Very weak, and
even shows no improvement in the condition of parties under increased rations. I have respectfully recom-
mended in my oral report, i:,t, that Schneider should be relieved for the present of t 1? duties of shrimper
and allowed a few days to recuperate, having since a month greatly exerted himself. ""X, that the rations
of the two hunters, to be as equal as possible to the work accomplished, should be re-established at what
they were after the killing of the last game — one pound and the extra of 8 oz. 31!, that, contrary to my
previous recommendation, that one shrimp-catcher should be put again to the increase of 4 o/.. daily. 4th,
that Israel and Gardiner should for the present be kept under the 4 oz. increase.
I am, respectfully, your obdt. svt ,

Octave Pavv, J/. /?.

To the Com'd'g Officer of U. S. Arctic Exp't'n.

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362

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Appendix No. 114. — Letter of Dr. Pavy\ April 2 j., 1884..

Camp Clay, Ellsmere Land, Afrit z-jt/!, 1884.

Sir: Sin.ce my report of the 2sth inst., I have found no improvement in the general condition of the
party, but a constant decrease in its general strength. A slight improvement is perceptible in the cases of
Gardiner and Israel, but not great enough to allow the stopping of increased rations. Ellis is rather better,
but Biederbick was, and is, fastly [sic] getting weaker. 1 he general atonique [atonic] state of the bowels, ar J
the constant increa-^ing obstinate constipation, compel nr to call to your attention a few recommendations,
hoping, for the welfare, perhaps even for the safety of the m.ijority of the party, that they will be received
favorably. First, that as the state of our bowels is critical, and the general weakness fastly [sif\ increasing, the
following change of diet for the next ten days is necessary: 4 oz. of bacon, altemr.ting with pemmican, in
the morning (raw in the plate), with one pint of tea and one of stew consisting of shrimps, and i oz. of blub-
ber and I oz. of fresh meat, and the usual amount of bread until exhausted. In the evening, one pot of tea
and two of stew with shrimps, the ordinary amount of bread, and 7 oz. of meat. This proposed pl.ir. cf
diet would call but for an increase of i oz, only of blubber, and the daily use of bacon and pemmican, v ''ich
would now be of the highest necessity in the present state of the party. I have detected, this morning, a
decri. ase in the strength of the two hunters, and a change unfavoritble in their health. I could renew my
recommendation of the 25th for an increase of ration, and that in pemmican and bacon. Earnestly hoping
that these important, perhaps necessary, rer.ommendations should be favorably received, for the safety of the
remaining members of the command.

I am, very respect., your obdt. svt..

Octave Paw, Af. D.

To the Com'd'g Offic.k of the U. S. Arctic Exp'd.

Appendix No. 115. — Lieutenant Grcely' s certificate to Dr. Pavy.

May 14, 1884.
Genfral Hazen: Dr. Pavy ivishes, for the satisfaction of his wife, that I should write you ac to his
performance of professional duties during the past terrible winter. His medical skill has contributed to a
very great degree in preserving the lives of the party as now constituted, and he has spared himself no
physical pains or trouble in carrying out his arduous and trying duties. This, notwithstanding his opinion
that he was not legally bound to perform these duties.

A. W. G.

Appendix No. 116. — General certificate to Dr. Pavy.

. ■• Camp Clay, May 19, 1884.

To whom it may concern :

We, the undersigned, members of the Lady Franklin Bay Polar Expedition, desire to take this means
of expressing our acknowledgement of the devoted zeal and professional skill displayed by Dr. Octave Pavy
in discharge of his medical duty during the full length of the expedition. During the past winter, 1883-84,
his medical skill has contributed in preserving the lives of the party to the present day.

Fred. F. Kislincuury.

C. B. Henry.

Jacob Bender.

E. Israel.

Roderick R. Schneider.

Chemnitz , Saxony.
Nicholas Salor,

D. L. Brainard.
J. R. Frederick.
Francis Long.
Maurice Conneil.
Henry Biederbick.
H. S. Gardiner.
D. C. Ralston.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

363

Appendix No. 117. — Letter of IJcuteuant Grcely on Dr. Pavy.

May 21, 1884.
General Hazhn : Learn to-day that Dr. Pavy has drawn up and had copied by Sergeant Israel a state-
ment as to his skill, f:c., this winter. Every man is now on the verge of the t;rave and under the hands of
Dr. Pavy, who is the strongest of us all, and we are all at his mercy, so to say. The value of such a cer-
tificate is evident. I have sworn evidence of five men that Dr. Pavy has stolen at various times bread from
his crippled patient. Sergeant Elison, and also evidence that he has stolen extract of beef from medical stores.
He will probably survive. I have no hopes for myself. I close this book to-day to try and secure it to you.
Good-bye, general.

A. W. Greelv,
Lieutenant, Commanding.

Appendix No. 118. — Order for Private Hcnry^ s exenition,

Nkar Cape Sabine, fiine G, 1884.
Sergeants Brainard, Long, and Frederick : Notwithstanding promises given by Private C. B. Henry
yesterday, he has since acknowledged to me having tampered with seal thongs, if not other food, at the old
camp. This pertinacity and audacity is the destruction of this party if not at once ended. Private Henry
will be shot to-day, all care being taken to prevent his injuring any one, as his physical strength is greater
than that of any two men. Decide the manner of de.ith b/ two ball and one blank cartridge. This order
is imperative, and absolutely necessary for any chance of life.

A. W. Greelv,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and As.i^Uint,

Commending Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.

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Appendix No. 119. — Report of Private Henry^ s execution.

Portsmouth, N. H., August 11, 1884.

Sir: I have the honor to report that on June 6, 1884, at Camp Clay, near Cape Sabine, Grinnell Land,
it became necessary for me to order the military execution of Private Charles B. Henry, Fifth Cavalry,
for continued thieving. The order was given in writing on my undivided responsibility, being deemed
absolutely essential for the safety of the surviving members of the expedition Ten had already died of
starvation, and two more lay at the point of death.

The facts inducing my action were as follows: Provisions had been stolen in November, 1883, and
Henry's complicity therein was more than suspected. March 24, 1884, the party nearly perished from
asphyxia. While several men were unconscious and efforts were being made for their restoration, Priv;'te
Henry stole about two pounds of bacon from the mess stores. He was not only seen by Eskimo Jens
Edwards, but his stomach being overloaded he threw up the undigested bacon. An open investigation was
held and every member of the party declared him guilty of this and other thefts. A clamor for his life was
raised, but was repressed by me. I put him under surveillance until our waning strength rendered his
physical services indispensable. Later he was found one day iixtoxicated, having stolen thf, liquor on hand
for general issue. A second time his life was demanded, but I again spared him.

On June 5 thefts of provisions on his part having been repcrteu to me, I had a conversation with him,
in which I appealed to his practical sense, pointing out that union was necessary to our preservation. He
l)romised reformation, but, distrusting, I issued a written order that he should be shot if detected stealing.
On June 6 he not only stole part of the shrimps for our breakfast, but visiting, unauthorized, our winter
camp, stole certain seal-skin reserved for food. I then ordered him shot. On his person was found a silver
ciironograph abandoned by me at Fort Conger and stolen by him. In his bag was found a large quantity
of sealskin, and a pair of seal-skin boots stolen a few days before from the hunter. Suspecting complicity
on the part of several, I ordered his execution by three of the most reliable men, After his death the order

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364

THK LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

was read to the entire party, and was concurred in by every member as being not only just, but as essential
to our safety. To avoid public scandal, I ordered that no man should speak of this matter until an official
report was made of the facts. I have the honor to request that a court of inquiry be ordered, or a court-
martial convened, shculd the honorable Secretary of War deem either advisable in this _ase. I have thought
it best not to ask the written statements of the surviving members of the party for appendices to this report,
lest I might seem to be tampering with them. I have not asked since our rescue — ^June 22 — whether
their opinions concurring in my action have changed or not, leaving such questions to your action, if
deemed requisite. I necessarily regret that circumstances imposed such a terrible vesponsibility upon me,
but I am conscious that I would have failed in my duty to the rest of my party had I not acted promptly
and summarily.

I am, respectfully, yours,

A. W. Greelv,
J^irst Lieutetiant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.
Adjutant-General of the Army,

(Through the Chief Signal Officer, Washington, D. C.)

Appendix No. 120. — Letter of Secretary of IVar, approving Lieutenant Greely^s course

regarding execution of Private Henry.

War Department, Adjutant-General's Office,

> Washington, November 14, 1884.

Sir; Referring to your letter dated August 11, 1884, reporting that on June 6, 1884, at Camp Clay,
near Cape Sabine, you had ordered the military execution of Private Charles B. Henry, Fifth Cavalry,
a member of the expedition under your command, giving details of the cause of such execution, and asking
for the appointment of a court of inquiry in the matter, I have the honor to inform you that upon con-
sideration of your report, in connection with extracts from the diaries of the several members of the Lady
Franklin Bay Expedition, and also in connection with the diary of Private Henry himself, the Secretary of
War entertains no doubt of the necessity, and the entire propriety of your action in ordering the execution
of Private Henry, under the circumstances and in the manner set forth in your report.

The Secretary therefore does not consider that the appointment of a court of inquiry to investigate the
matter is required by the public interest.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

R. C. Drum,

Adjutant-General.
Lieut. A. W. Greelv,

Fifth Cavalry, Aciivg Signal Officer,

(Through the Chief Signal Officer of the Army.)

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THE LADY FRANKLIN BAT EXPEDITION.

365

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Appendix No. 121. — List of deaths.
List of deaths in the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.

Name.

W.H.Cross

F. T. Christiansen (Esk
imo).

David Linn

George W. Rice

James B. Lockwood

W.S.Jewell..

Jens Edward (Eskimo) .

W.A.Ellis

D.C. Ralston

William Whisler

Edward Israel

F. F. Kislingbury

Nicholas Salor

Charles B. Henry

Jacob Bender

Octave Pavy

H. S. Gardiner .

R. R. Schneider .
Joseph Elison . . .

Rank.

Sergeant

Sergeant ,
.—do...

First lieutenant, A. S. O . .
Sergeant

Private

Sergeant

Private

Sergeant

Second lieutenant, A. S.O.

Corporal

Private

...do

Acting assistant surgeon
Sergeant

Private. „
Sergeant

Regiment.

General Service ,

Company C, Second Cavalry, U. S. A
Signal Corps, U. S. A

Twenty-third Infantry, U. S. A

Signal Corps, U.S. A ...

Company C, Second Cavalry, U. S. A

Signal Corps, U. S. A

Company F, Ninth Infantry, U. S. A.

Signal Cor),.., U. S. A

Eleventh Infantry, U. S.A

Company H, Second Cavalry, U. S. A
Co^npany E, Fifth Cavalry, U. S. A..
Company F, Ninth Infantry, U. S. A
United States Army

Signal Corps, U. S. A.

Company A, First Artillery, U. S. A.
Company E, Tenth Infantry, U. S. A.

Date
of death.

1884.
Jan. 18
Apr. S

Apr. 6
Apr. 9

Apr. 9
Apr. 12
Apr. 29
May 19
May 23
May 24
May 27
June I
June 3
June 6
June 6
June 6

June 12

June 18
July 8

Cause of death.

Scurvy.

Incipient scurvy (prob-
ably) and starvation.
Starvation.
Exhaustion during

storm,
otarvation.

Do.

Drowned.

Starvation.

Do.

Shot by order.

Starvation.

Starvation ; hastened

by narcotics.
Inflammation of the
bowels and starva-
tion.
Starvation, and prob-
ably incipient scurvy.
Effect of frost-bite.

A. W. Greely,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.

1.1

Appendix No. 122. — Order relative to Private Henry., dated June 5, 1884.

JIear Cape Sabine, yune 5, 1884.
To Sergeants Brainard, Frederick, and Long: Private Henry, having been repeatedly guilty of
stealing the provisions of this party, which is now perishing slowly by starvation, has so far been condoned
and pardoned. It is, however, imperatively ordered, that if this man be detected either eating food of any
kind not issued him regularly, or making caches or appropriating any article of provision, you will at once
shoot him and report the matter to me. An) other course would be a fatal leniency, the man being able to
overpower any two of our present force.

A. W. Greelv,
First Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

Commanding Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.

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LIEUTENANT LOCKWOOD'S JOURNAL. FROM AUGUST 3, 1883.

Appendix No. 123.

Philadelphia, April 6, 1885.
I, Mary S. McCalla, stenographer, do hereby inake oath that the translation of the fourth volume of the
stenographic notes of Lieutenant Lockwood's journal of the Greely expedition is a correct, perfect, and full
copy of the same, no omission having been made, and no changes made cither in substance or sense.

Mary S. McCalla,

Stenographer.
State of Pennsylvania, \
Philadelphia County, ) '
Subscribed and sworn to before me this 16th day of April, 1885.

C. Howard Schermerhorn,

Notary Public.
|C. Howard Schermerhorn, SEAL, Notary, Philadelphia.]

SS:

Affidavit.
State of Pennsylvania,
County of Philadelphia,

I, William B. Mann, prothonotary of the court of common pleas of said county, do certify that C.
Howard Schermerhorn, esquire, before whom the annexed affidavit was made, was at the time of so doing
a notary public in and for the county and State aforesaid, duly commissioned and qualified to administer
oaths and affirmations, and to take acknowledgments, &c., and to all whose acts as such full faith and credit
are and ought to be given, as well in courts of judicature as elsewhere, said court being a court of record;
and that I am well acquainted with the handwriting of the said C. Howard Schermerhorn, notary public,
and verily believe his signature thereto is genuine, and that said affidavit pUrports to be taken in all respects
as required by the laws of the State of Pennsylvania.. In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand
and affixed the seal of said court this 17th day of April, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred

and eighty-five.

William B. Mann,

Prothonotary,
Court of Common Pleas,

Philadelphia, Fa.

Friday, August 3, 1883. — Still no ship. Kennedy Channel is reported as having a good deal of loose
ice drifting south. The ice this day is very much as usual. New ice forms every night, and to some extent
during the day, but the loose ice drifting about with the tide keeps it from attaining any thickness. One of
the pups (Castor or Pollux, I do not know which) followed me along the shore this evening to North Valley
Creek. I was afraid of getting lost. This evening Frederik* [Frederik Christiansen] went out in the

*Tliis word, as in other cases, being misunderstood by the translator, is followed by the correct word bracketed, — A.W. G.
366

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

367

kyak after a seal on the ice, about half a mile in front of the house, but the sly seal took a header and down
he went before Frcdcrik [Christiansen] got near. We ate the last of the flour this morning at breakfast,
and now have only hard bread and cornnieal. The fresh meat has been gone some lime, and now pork and
canned corned beef comprise the meat. The latter is not good, being dry and tasteless, and the former is
worse than the latter. We have a little canned roast beef (a few cans), which will be used going south, with
pemmican, pork, &c.

Saturday, August ^. — Foggy and overcast this morning, but later in the day the fog lifted. This evening
it is snowing lightly. Lieutenant Greely and several men were on Mount Cornhill [Cairn Hill]. The straits
seem to be packed closer than hitherto — between Dutchland [Dutch Island] and Cape Baird especially so.
Kennedy Channel seems to have a good deal more ice. No ship, and no chance of a ship as things are
now, nor any present chance of our leaving, though I think Lieutenant Greely will make the attempt even
with a very poor prospect, and though the ice remains in statu quo for weeks yet. Personally I would rather
take almost any chance that offered than stay here another long winter night. Lieutenant Kislingbury and
Jans [Jens] got a small seal early th" morning in front of the house ; weight, 47 pounds. Await more seal
to-morrow. "Rit" and "Askim" ["Ask him"] had a terrible fight this morning. They are rival lovers.
"Askim " ["Ask him "] got " Rit " down onc*^. They had several rounds. I think it will end by "Askim "
["Ask him "] being king and " Rit " going about with drooping head and tail, like that d ;based monarch,

Old H I Howler]. I should rather say would end thus under ordiraiy circu;. .stances, bit when we leave

here — if in boats, as probable — the dogs will be shot, or perhaps left with a few days' lood against the
possible event of our return. Of course, in the latter event (barring our return), they would soon starve to
death.

Sunday, August 5. — Fine day ; warm, sunny, and calm. It is singular we have no wind. Wind is what
we want now. Whisler and Ralston report smoke, as of a steamer, down the straits. They were on Corn-
hill [Cairn Hill], It has elicited a good deal of discussion, I doubt it being anything else than fog or
clouds, and I judge they more than half think so themselves now. The ship is the only subject of discussion
now among the men. 1 say little o; nothing, being satisfied to wait. I do not much believe in fine-spun
theories all depending on the ice, the movements of which can be put as much faith in as that of the wind —
indeed, hardly so well. We had seal for dinner. It was equal to the last ; it tasted oily and fishy — a black,
soft kind of flesh, without much fi.'ier. Ralston told me he could not keep it down. Oh for a musk-ox or
two! I have read "Put yourself in his place" a second time, and am now galloping through some other
stories. I think that if we had lots of fresh meat and a few hundred good books I could survive another
winter here; under the circumstances I do not. I shaved off my side whiskers on the 2f.\; they reached
behind my neck ; wear only mustache now.

Monday, August 6. — The ice is about the same. I went on Cornhill [Cairn Hill] this evening. I have
had a neuralgic pain in head all day. The whale-boat took some things down to Dutchland [Dutch Island],
The ice in the harbor is quite loose.

Dtesday, August 7. — Took a walk by the creek to the east. Several men have been on Cornhill [Cairn
Hill], and a good deal of open water is reported in Kennedy Channel. The ice at this end of the harbor
is very much scattered and drifts about constantly. Several old paleocrystic floes and hummocks have made
their appearance. I suppose they have come in through the western entrance. Yesterday or day before
Sergeant Brainard suggested to Lieutenant Greely having the small boat and going across to Baird to get
a look down the straits, but the latter would not allow it on the score of danger. Some of the men seem
to contemplate a hard winter here.

Wednesday, August i. — It has been blowing all day, reaching twenty-five miles [per hour, or about 11"
per second] or thereabouts from the south. It has made great changes in the ice, so much so that operations
have been on float since noon to get oflf should the opportunity occur. Kennedy Channel is clear or almost
clear of ice, and two leads from Baird and the western entrance almost meet. There is a good deal of open
water opposite Baird and Lieber and also in Hall's Basin. We may be able to get cif to-night. Every one
is on the qui vh't; and the last touches are being put on the operations. However, we are not off' yet, and
I won't believe we are en route until we get to Baird. A lookout has been kept up on the ice all or almost
all of the day. The sky is overcast with dark flying clouds, and the air ;i chilly and disagreeable, I do not
feel as if I was going away, much less south and on a journey such as this may.be, I have felt much more
stirred up the day before the sledge journey.

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368

THE LADY FKANKLFX BAY EXPEDITION.

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KETREAT SOUTH.

T/iiirsii)ty, An):;ust 9. — We all went down to Dutchland [Dutch Island] and started out — the launch, the
whale-l)oat, and the English boat, and the fmall boat. Proceeded to Preston's [Proteus] Point and left there
at 3 p. m. with Lieutenant Greely and everybody. Reached Bellot Island without much trouble, but after
that encountered a good deal of ice and worked very hard. Rice fell overboard.

August 10, p. m., went ashore on snow [Sun] peninsula. Started again, and about 2.30 a. m. got
nipped in the ice — everything on the floe. Then turned in and went to sleep about 4 a. m. 8.30 a. ni.,
was waked up by Rice ; boats laid up again. 8.45 a. m., started west. Here we proceeded some distance
and then stopped, while I went with Sergeant Gardiner and .-iscertained that open water existed all the way
across the fiord. Stopped at 10 o'clock, and the launch started again in about an hour. Crossed the
fiord nearly opposite Sun Bay. Found plenty of open water on the south side, extending; out from the
shore probably two or three miles. Shipjjed a good many seas. Reached the tent near Depot B [at Baird]
at about 2 o'clock. I have hardly slept, and eaten almost nothing since we started, nor sinco we started until
now have I had anything to drink bi't water. T did not succeed in sleeping at all, and very few of the men
were able to get to slee') ; 1 1, 15 {,. m., started with four bu.its for the south.

Aiij^iist II, p. m., reached bluff about a mile below Lieber, where further progress was stopped.

Weatl.er foggy and snowing. Remained here a few minutes .md then started for the shore, which we
reached at the mouth of the ravine (the same where Lieutenant Greely, Whisler, and I ascended mountain
in i88i). At 2 o'clock got in a prot'jcted i)lace and waited for the ice to move out. I went to bed early on
ihe shore. Snowing. 8.30 a. m., left the vicinity of Cape Lieber and proceeded south along the coast. Saw
fighting narwhals one or two miles below. V/eather still overcast but calm.

12 ni., ran into a fog above ("ape Davis, B. W. (or P. W.) [barometer] 29.75 r7SS.'J4"""]. 3 p. m.,
le.iched C. [Carl] Ritter B. [Ba/j jhoa' extending out from shore. Low plain alongshore here. Very
foggy; cannot see much. Left c;.che near Cape Cracroft at 10.30 a. m. 4.20, started out again down
straits for a mile. Hunter found a shoal about six inches [about 150"""] long on the bar under the water
near the place we stopped at. Just back of the level water or plain, and at the top of the cliflf, are two
sister peaks, maki'"; a i)rominent landmark. After starting again at 4.20 p. m. we soon afterwards encoun-
tered a dense fog, and after wandering around among the ice, and staring in every direction, we made next
stop only a few miles below last slopping place at 6 o'clock p. m. (first new ice met — that at 5.15 p. m.); con-
tinued close along the shore. 11.15 P- '^'■> stopped along the ahore to rest. Ice moving north though the
tide is running in. Seemed more clear. Very toggy during most of the journey. Do not know where we
are. We were stopped by ice for half an hour along shore a half miK"; back, rurned in on shore and went
to sleep.

August 1 2. — 7.50 a. m,, got up. Boats aground. 9.20 a. m., started off down south. 1 2 m., stopped on
shore to reconnoiter. 2.30, stopped again to reconnoiter. A great deal of ice nu t with. We are still above
Carl Ritter Bay. 4 p. m., started again ; foggy, snowy, and SE. wind. 4.30 p. m., stopped by ice again,
exactly opposite small island. Had coffee here. Corporal [Sergeant] Elison went down coast and found
one of his old canps. He says we .^re four and a half miles from Carl Ritter Bay. It is now snowing and
very foggy. Watch reported clear water; so at 8 o'clock ah hands were called, and at 8.30 p. ni. we got
off again. 9.40 p. m., reached Carl Ritter Bay; took on the stores left there. Reached south cape of bay
in fifty minutes. When pressing over 'bund little ice, an 1 gradually became le^ and '"ss for some hours. It
has been blowing and snowing and very disagreeable must of the day. Aiier crossing Carl Ritter Bay we
kept on, encountering very little ice indeed.

August 13. — 1.45 a. m., reached ice barrier extending across to the south as far as eyes could reach;
about ten niile^ below Carl Ritter Bay stopped over and went to bed. 7.15 a. ni., called again for break-
fast. At 8 o'clock I went with Jans [Jens] on foot down the coast about one and a half miles, and should
say saw about a mile farther than tliis. There was a dark passage clc e along the ice field. Outside all was
ice, ice, ice. Got back at 10 ./clock, ii.io a., ra., started again with the launch. All hands steamed down
'.he coast about a mile, where we were stopped again by ice r.t 1 1.30 a. m. It is now snowing and very foggy.
There is a small bay just below here. The ice extends to the east and southeast as far as can be seen. We
are 12 or 15 miles, probably, below Carl Xitler Bay. 4 p.m., nil hands called again and we proceeded.
Met with a great der.l of hard ice. Weather, snowing and very foggy. 7 p. m., reached the shore a few

THE LADY FRANKLIN liAY EXPEDITION.

369

miles below last [)lrtre, near the little hay, and canijjed here. Small seal shot near here, which we had for
Slipper. It was very good indeed. Wind changed and now blowing a little from the south. Hail supper
here and turned in at lo o'clock.

Aii^^int 14. — Hreakfast at 8 o'clock — pemniican stew. Wind from the northeast, and the ice very much
the same. Slept on shore last night as usual. I sle|)t without any protection except that of the bag. Some
of the men went hunting last night, but got nothing — saw nothing. Remained iiere during the 14th. tiot
meridian observation at noon by Israel. Made latitude 80 deg. 44 niin. Turned in at 10 p.m. The
weather is clearing up, and the wind begins to blow a little from the north. Supper consisted of a bifd-
stew, cofl'ee, and hard bread.

////^"//.f/ 1 5. — Very tuie day, bright and clear, with light wind from the N K. The ice has hardly changed,
though it is drifting south slowly. New ice formed near the sliore during the night. A danger of open
water pool out in the straits opiiosite camp. There is a marked absence of paleocrystic ice in the straits.
It all seems to consist, except a berg here and there, of ice formed in the straits. Not many « iter leads
visible this morning. Ice, ice, ice in every direction. 8 a. m,, breakfast — peinmican, hard bread, and coffee.
Slept on shore last night, as I do always. Pretty much every one now as well sleeps on the shore when
the op|)ortunity occurs.

Aii'^iist Fs- — VV^ind from the northeast all day. Got up to a good breakfast, and Lieutenant C.reely
thought that the new ice enlarged and danger of freezing us in, and determined to move the launch and
boats off shore a half mile to some ground bergs. We started al)out 9 o'clock and employed all hands,
and managed to get the launch out with a great deal ■ labor through the old and new ice at 3.30 p. ni.
Then all hands returned to shore, and at 5.30 p. m., after supper, I started with the men and boats. T i'"!
tenant Clreely and some others remaining on the launch. Got the boats and their loads out to a ground[ed]
berg just north of the launch in about two hours. Young ice has formed quite thick and has become very
threatening. The ice has been moving down the straits very fast all day. Sergeant Cross was apparently
drunk on the launch while we were getting her out from shore. At one time he looked out on the deck and
said the launch was going to be crushed; all the time it was none of his business. He showed his con-
dition by his appearance, his manner, and neglecting to obey orders promptly. Finally Lieutenant Greefy
sent him ashore and put the engine in charge of Frederick. Cross has been assigned to the whale-boat
(Rice). I took a drink of rum, rum being shared to all.

August 16. — I slept on the berg last night, laying my sleeping-bag on top of th.e spare sheep-skin one,
and thus slept quite comfortably. Rice and his crew slept on the berg, but the rest in the boats. Breakfast
this morning about 8.30 a. m. The northeast wind still continues, driving the ice down the straits in one
confused mass. No open water can be seen anywhere. Hreakfast consisted of coftee, hard bread, and
corned beef. Affairs do not look very auspicious. We have 50 days' rations from Carl Ritter Hay. g.30
p. m., on board launch. I have come over on a visit. It seems palatial here compared with the berg where
I have my sleeping-bag and my present bed. One can get from there here by traveling in a semicircle
around some intervening bergs. I discovered this route myself. This evening Hrainard, in endeavoring to
get over directly across the wind [pack], got in the water up to his waist. Ice, ice, ice, everywhere round, and
still extending; a narrow lead of some length which extends from the cape above obliquely down the straits.
The ice in the straits seemed to be crushed and broken uj). The fires here on the launch are kept up night
and day; Frederick says he burns about 80 pounds per day. Rice and the crew of the whale-boat have moved
from the berg down to the boat itself. I am the only one now left on the berg. To-day I gave Brainard,
Ralston, Linn, F^lison, Jewell, Salor, and Frederick memoranda of my [indebtedness] to them, /. c, to the first
$112, $64 to the next three, and $48 to the last three. At full tide this evening, at about 10 o'clock,
noticed a large paleocrystic floe .about a mile from shore, going north, and outside of it ice near mid-channel,
going south.

August 17. — Beautiful morning; bright, clear, and calm. Breakfast at 8 o'clock. After breakfast I
went over to the launch, and we moved nearer to the berg where the boats are without using steam. The
young ice is now quite thick, but in many places is constantly broken up by the tides and action of the ice.
Slight breeze from the west starting up in the afternoon. Ice may be still noticed going south, though very
slowly. A small lane from the cliff .above us, stretching oblicjuely down-stream, is all the open water visible.
Open water seen along the Greenland shore last night, stretching up and down some distance. Such a day as
this seems heavenly compared with the weather we have had to endure for some time past. No game. We
obtained water from a small pool on the berg, but have to break through young ice to get it. It snowed
last night.

n. Mis. .m? 24

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370

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXrUDlTION.

This evening Lieutenant Greely sent for the spare sheep-skin slccping-bag which I hail been using under
mine. I cannot continue to he on the berg ; this necessitates my removal to one of the boats where I now
am, on board the Valorous. This boat and the " I'halarope" [Jhniinwnt], as the men call iicr, and the whale-
boat all lie gathered in a little harbor formed by three icebergs, all protected from the wind and ice. There are
five of us on this boat; six on each of the others. 'I'hc sleeping-bags are arianged on the masts and sides in
some way or other, and we manage to make out. How tiresome and dreary this life is, it is ditVicult to ex-
press. 1 went on land this afternoon. The whole east side of the straits seem to be clear of ice, and op|)osite
Franklin Island there is open water for half-way across. Down the straits in mid-channel no ice can be
seen at all in a certain direction. Yet from the berg here all seems to be ice as far as can be seen. The
open water does us no good as it is at present, as we cannot reach it. Oh, for a west or southwest wind !
We had snow last night. Long fell through the ice into the water near the berg to-night. I'emmican and
coffee for supper.

Augiisl i8. — A heavy weight of snow has been falling all day. It commenced in the night. This morn-
ing we were all covered. Boats managed to place the sails so as to form part protection, 'i'his afternoon
one of the bergs just by split in two; it created (|uite a commotion in the waters, and raised a little tidal
wave. This berg is about 15 feet [4.5"'] high. The watch reports a good deal of open water, and some men
have been sent for by Lieutenant Greely this afternoon to man [move] the launch, but just where or how far I
do not know. Everything is wet and damp, cold, and dreary in the extreme. Nothing can be done but lie in
the sleeping-bag, or go out on the berg and pace up and down in the storm. The wind is now from the south-
east, but there is not much of it here. Breakfast this morning of corned beef, beans, one-half can of each ; that
is, half a pound of the former and about ten ounces of the latter. The ration of hard bread is a pound ; i)em-
mican a pound. The launch succeeded in getting the other side of the berg to which she was attached to
about one or two hundred yards [about 90 or 180'"] of open water. The ice has been Hoating both north
and south. Its chief direction seems to be south. 'J"he wind seems to have more effect than the tiile. 'I'he
straits are still comparatively free of ice some distance outside. Things look rather gloomy at times. Tlie
snow falls constantly, and everything is wet and dreary. The men seem to be in pretty good spirits, most
of them, but there are many gloomy forebodings. Living about a boat all day in this way the blood
becomes chilled, and it is haul to keep warm. 8.30 p. m., call from the launch to bring the boats, accord-
ing to which we started and with little difficulty reached the launch in half an hour. In one and a half
hours more we had got the launch to open water, by the aid of all the men. 1 1 p. m., we started with boats
in tow. Resumed my place on the launch and started. Lieutenant Greely fell off the launch overboard.
Kislingbury and I got him by the arm as the float returned and hauled him in. Farther on we ran between
two rapidly moving floes, which presented danger of a nip. It stopped snowing by the time we left.

Augiiil 19. — After a good run through open water, encountering very little ice except in small pieces,
much scattered, we went into a little dock formed by two bergs along the ice-foot, at 3.30 a. m. Four and
a half hours on the run; distance probably 15 miles, and perhaps 7 or 8 miles from Caije Lawrence. The
weather is clear, being beautiful, and the day bids fair to be fine. No wind of any account. Launch
slightly aground at low water at present place. The rise and fall of the tides here is tremendous — from the
foot of an ice-foot, probably ten or twelve feet [about 3 or 3.5'"] high, over and above it two or three feet
[.6 or .9"']. 7 a. m., breakfast, before and after which I got a little sleep, a couple of hours in all. At
10.10 a. m., a lead showing itself to the next headland down the coast, we proceed. Passed this headland,
and got some distance beyond in the course of an hour — probably three or four miles — when the ice closed
up, and for an hour and a half we worked to get through, succeeded in reaching it, passed above the head-
land referred to at 1 2.40 p. m. Weather fine, bright and clear. General character of the ice seems loose
and broken up with a great deal of sludge. Made the boats and launch fast along shore. The ice outside
runs north like a mill race. Some machinery broke down while we were in the moving ice, but it was fixed
temporarily until we reached shore. Has since been made all right again. 5.15 p. m., started again and
got along with the thickly packed sludge until 6.15 p. m., when we went into shore again. We are still
above Cape Lawrence.

8.IO p.m.. Sergeant Brainard with Frederik [Christiansen] started out for Cape Lawrence along
the shore. The straits seem full of great masses of broken up ice, which are now floating south with the
flood-tide. Full moon came out to-night. Several seals made their appearance near the launch and were
unsuccessfully shot at by Lieutenant Kislingbury. It is now (9 p.m.) quite calm and clear; that is, the

i^»iil^i^,.;-;S»fl^.

TDK LADY FRANKLIN 1»AY KM'KDITION.

371

air is clear, tliough the sun is not shining. Lieutenant Greely intended going out into the pack with the
launch and boats, after suii[H'r, and drift south with it, but gave it up on account of the ice packing against
the projection below here, I slept on shore to-night.

.iiigiist 20. — Waked up at 4.30 a. ni. Much open water ajjpeared ahjng the shore. 4.40, started
otT. Sergeant Urainard iiad not returned. We got along cpiite readily. Discerned Seri;eant lirainard,
Frederik [C'hristiansen|, and doctor above, on shore near I'ape Lawrence, and took them <>n board. Ser-
geant {{rainard had been to the cape and found i';e. Reported a pack stretching from Ca|)e Lawrence
across to Ca|)e Jackson. Weather very fine; light wind from the soutliwest. 6.55 a. m., stopped just
south of Cape Lawrence, and the men had breakfast. Breakfast on the launch sjme little time before —
penimican, hard bread and butter, and tea. Lieutenant IJreely wati hed along the shore some distance.
10.15 ''^' '"•' st'ifti-'d again. Encountered little ice until off Rawlins l!ay, when a great deal of sludge was
n>et with. The pack stretches to the left along shore here, and probably extends in a series of tloes of different
sizes all the way across. The mouth of this bay appears to be occupied by broken up sludge ice. 11.15
a. m., sto[)i)ed again on shore, on north side of Rawlins Bay near its moutli. Sky to the southwest very
thick and foggy, and threatening snow. Several seals seen to-day. They are of tlaily occurrence. Saw
also a gull, called an '' Ivory" by Lieutenant Greely. Some birds near our stopping place last night made
a great noise; Rice and others thought they were falcons. 4 p. m., ihe launch was found aground, and
it was impossible to get her off. The top of the ice-Hoe is now on a level with her smoke-stack ; she lies
alongside of a precipice of ice. Lieutenant Greely intended starting this afternoon, having seen from the
heights open water across the bay in one place. It is now contem[)lated to start as soon as the launch
floats. Several seals fired at. Wolf, fox, and ermine ti.icks, and dung of musk-oxen seen near hereby
Lieutenant Greely. Vegetation in this vicinity very niui h resembles that about Fort Conger.

8.30 p. m., started again. Had to make (juite a detour to get across Rawlins Bay. Several paleo-
crystic floes were inside of it. Afterwards encountered a good deal of rubble-ice and also more open
water. Crossed the bay in two hours.

Aiii^iist 21. — 12.20, reached cape some few miles farther on, and camped for the night after a vain
endeavor to get farther against the ebb-tide which had just commencetl to run north. Left this harbor and
went up the coast a (juarter of a mile and moored the vessels between two bergs. Weather during the last
run extremely foggy, making it most difficult to find a route. Near bay^ very indistinct, anil distant bays
quite invisible. The tides along this coast are more rising, and falling sonu- 12 or 15 feet [about 3.5 to 4.5'"].
The ice-foot may be put as at about 10 feet [3'"] vertical height usually. On account of the moving ice
and the rise and fall of the tides, &c., it is about as difiicult to find a suitable place for the launch as it would
be for a large ship.

7 a. ni., tried to sleep on board launch last night, lying on my sleeping-bag in the stern, but hardly
got two hours' rest. Got up again at 4.30 a. m. and found a large paleocrystic floe bearing obliquely in,
being pushed by a large floe behind it. The berg saved us. We were pushed a little, however, so that we
took the ground slightly. Weather overcast, cold and dreary. A good many dovekies seen every day. We
started about 10 a. m., after allowing the best opportunity to pass in waiting for Sergeant Jewell, who had
gone off on the heights to take a look. I lay down to get some rest while Brainard did the starting. After
ruuning about an hour through much ice I was suddenly called, and on getting up and going out found
that the risk of a nipping all over imminent. The whale-boat got a nip which sprained some of her timbers
and just managed to get the other boats out in time. Likewise there was much difficulty with the launch.
Large cakes of ice and sludge were running rapidly north. We stopped about a mile from Cape Wilkes.
Then walked down to the cape to gef a look for a better harbor than our present place affords. The straits,
except a few leads, seem full of sludge ice, with here and there a large floe, though I saw a lead running
across Richardson Bay.

P. m., left stopping place near Cape Wilkes and foumi very good traveling for some distance into
Richardson Bay. There, however, we got into several blind leads and had to make several long detours.
The ice was so thick that it stopped the launch even after all the boats had been dropped, and great efforts
were necessary to get through. However, by perseverance we finally accomplished it and crossing open-
water spaces, and winding through pools we finally got through and made the shore on the south side of
the bay, some distance from its mouth, in a few hours. We examined this vicinity for the English rations
left by Nares at Cape Collinson, but without success. Stopped here an hour and then continued on to the

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372

THE LADV THANKLIN HAY KXl'EDITION.

ia|)e at the south side of the hay at its mouth. No rations were found licrc. We reached this place at 7
o'clock, about. Serjeant Urainard widi Uendcr sees |noes| to the west (ape, ilistant almij; shore i>erha|)s four
miles. Weather overcast hut clear. 'I'he straits are lull of slud^;i' and Hoes small and large. There is no
wind of any account. Got to bed on shore about 9 p. m.

.lux'H.'i/ 32. — Was wakened up at 4.15, and about 4._^o we got off. Proceeded aloiif,', and alter various
stops and delays rcache<l Joiner Hay about 9 a. m. Here we slopjieil some time, while 1 went along the
coast and found a harbor about three-fourths of a mile farther on. doing l)a< k anil reporting this to Lieu-
tenant (ireely, the launch and boats started and went into a little natural dork formed by three bergs and
fully protected from the ice and wind. At Cape Collinson we took on the 240 I'jiglish rations. The bread
had been partially eaten by foxes, but the rest (about half) was all right. Weather during the day foggy
and drizzling at times. Launch ran afoul of a small <ake of ii e while Lieutenant (ireely was dire( ting her
course and <lisarranged some of the machinery. Seals and dovekies seen during the day. We are now
about latitude 80°.

Kemained in little ice dock. Lieutenant (Ireely and some others got some sleep, but I got none, as
I could not get ashore olf the berg except by boat. The men arranged sails over the boats, and most of
them slept. The weather was drizzling and raining, with a dull southwest wind — very disagreeable. 3 p. m.,
the ice openctl up along shore and lay scattered out in Scoresby Hay, so we started and ran up the hay a mile
or two, when we turned to the right and went ashore to get a look at the condition of the ice. A lead was
seen running across the bay, though much filled with broken ice. About this time Frederick discovered that
the pump of the engine leaked. About half-way across the bay we got through the ice entirely, and entered a
vast e.xpanse, covered, however, with a thick fog shutting out the land. Found a i)ack of paleocrystic ice
on the south shore and rounded it near the farther cape. Saw here two very large bergs aground a long
way from shore. 5.45 p. m., reached Cajie Norton Shaw and found the water along shore very clear of ice,
though the pack lay outside heavy as ever. 6.15 p. m,,came to a place after floating along shoie and came
in close, and we were unable to go farther. Selected a harbor near by and stoppe<l.

Aiii^iist 23. — (lot up at 8 a. m. after a very satisfactory sleep on board launch, one of the few good rests
I have had on this trip. It w.is too low water, and a good deal of o|)en water along shore. 8.30 a. m.,
started and ran up [down] the coast for a half hour, .ibout one and a half miles, I suppose. We then came
to a projecting point, against which ])ack was crowded so close as to stop farther progress. The boats
were moored along shore a few hundred yards to the south, but it w.is not a good |)lace, and after awhile the
pack from above came moving down-stream against boats, and they escaped narrowly being nipped. The
red boat [ Va/oroiis] was forced to fly up to the point referred to before fmding a safe place. At this place a
considerable space of open water exists by reason of a number of bergs aground near shore, forming a kind
of breakwater. The sun shines overhead but it is very foggy around the horizon for some distance in alti-
tude, so that nothing can be seen beyond a half mile. The men have put their sleeping-bags out on shore
to dry, and are sunning themselves on the beach. It is only on the beach, and other few places here and
there, that there is not a great deal of snow. Latitude of this place, by meridian observation by Israel,
79 deg. 51 min.; high tide at 2.15 p. ni.

3 p. m. the ice opened up, and we started again and ran through open water for thirty minutes. It
gradually took us out from tlie shore a little ways, and at the end of that time we again encountered pack.
It was foggy and snowy; could not see very well. Lieutenant Greely proposed leaving the boats attached
to the fioe, but afterwards, at my suggestion, decided to attempt running into land. We worked our way
through dense masses of sluilge ice until about 4 o'clock, when we were ."ible to gei no farther, and moored
alongside of a little floe about 25 by 35 yards [about 23 by 32'"] dimensions. The fog became thicker
and heavier. We are still here antici])at:ng a nip, but have had none. The boats are parti.illy pulled up on
the floe. Things look somewhat gloomy. Thick sludge ice all around, and no open water now in sight.
A slight air stirring is from the northeast. There may be a very .slight motion of the floe out from the land,
but it is almost imperceptible. The surrounding ice is mostly small pieces, with sludge in between. One
very large and another smaller berg are off to the south a few hundred yards. We are now about a mile or
so on the north side of the projecting headland, which is prob.ably Cape John Barrow. Steam is kept up
all the time and has been on the whole trip, tiie fire going out but on two occasions, so Linn says. About
So pounds a day are necess.iry for banking. The wood of the small boat recently broken up is being used
to-night for banking, as we have but a half box of coal left, hardly enough for a d.-iy's run.

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12 o'clock luidDi^lit. I have boon on watch, I/iLMitcnant {Irecly sleeping. Tlic Ico has chaiitied hut ;i
little. 'I'lic Hoe we are attac hed to seems to liave moved out somewhat f:i)m land, and also very slightly
to the south. Certain movements in the ice have at li' .cs ciuiseil me some apprehension, and the " I'hala-
rope" [/i/rrM;//('///| was])ulled uj) higher, the ice pressing ai,ainst her. Kvery once in a while the i< c moves
slightly, wit!) a low grinding noise. It is dithcult to expl.'in.

August 2:^. — 1.30 a.m. Lieutenant Oreely < anie on deck and sent me below for some sleep. I did
not wake up until after wc had reached land. It seems that about 6 o'clock the ice loosened up sufiu;iently
to get under way, and in the course of twenty minutes we were aliK; to get in to the ice-foot. We drifteil
about ii mile. Weather very foggy and snowing; wet, dri/./ling, and generally disagreeable. 9 a.m., our
little indentation along the ice-foot alTorded poor shelter. The ice moving rapidly to the south threateneil to
(rush the boats, all of which could not get into tiie little place. As a choice between two evils, I recom-
mended dropping down with the tide to a better harbor about a (juarter of a mile below. This we accord-
ingly did with the launch and the /h-diiniont, the two other boats remaining. We work I through the
sludge and small floes and pieces with some risk, but accomplisiied it subseiiuently. The wind is now from
the northeast. There is a body of ojien water some distance otV shore to the ncrtheast, but elsewhere the
ice seems heavily jiacked. We are now at the north cape of .Maury Day. Sergeant Hrainard returned at
II a.m. from the farther side of this bay. He reached what is doubtless Capt.' Fra/er. Could see little
ways beyond. Found ice heavily packed. 11 p. m., we are still here. The launch and boats have been
moved in between some grounded bergs and the ice-foot, in a very secure position. The rise and fall of the
tide here is immense. At high tide we were on a level with the top of the adjoining berg. Now we .'•re
way below it. The weather is very foggy, and thick and drizzling — ilisagreeable in the extreme. However,
in the launch here we are pretty comfortable, uniler the turtle back. The ico has open^ up somewhat, but
still there is no ojijiortunity of leaving. The fire.s under the boilers are kept banked with odd pieces of
wood, lockers of the launch, &c. Pemmican, tea, and hard bread is our staple article of diet.

August 25. — 4.40 a. m. started off, the ice being loose enough and forming small lanes and pools of
open water here and there. More or less fog all the time. Light breeze from the southwest made it quite
uncomfortable for me at the rudder. Passed two small hays. 7 a.m., stojjpeil. unable to go farther. There
is a large bay ahead, with high, precipitous clift's on the farther side. I think it must be Dobbin Hay. Used
about entire load of coal in the run this nu)rning. The ice is moving slowly north with the ebb-tide. I
think we have just passed Point Hayes. 12 ni. Still here awaiting a break in the ice, which has rounded
up somewhat, but still keeps together too close to make farth :; progress to the south. We are moored to
a large, sloping berg. Israel made the latitude 79 deg. 45 min., out expressed a good deal of doubt as to the
accuracy of it. This woulil place us opposite Cap. ^'"'•azer. I w.as out also with my sextant, by Lieutenant
(Ireely's wishes, but did nothing, the marker being too dirty. F'rederik [Christiansen] shot a seal about 11
o'clock ; we got him before he sunk. It is clear overhead, at times the sun shines, but arounil the horizon
very foggy. Some of the men drank the blood of the seal — IJender, Israel, &c. Bender, Biederbick, and
Long reached their convalescence.

5.40 p. m. Open water reported some time previously, and at this hour we started. Got through the
broken pack-ice in ten minutes and came to what looked like an open sea. But, unfortunately, a dense fog
set in. However, ice was seen ahead, and, after an hour's run, we ran in near shore and stopped by some
grounded bergs. Had supper here of the seal shot. A very hne natural dock near by, and basin with
ice-foot running all around, and an outlet through a narrow gateway. F'rom the top of the berg open
water was seen again beyond this ice, which ran out from the shore like a tongue, projecting into the strait a
couple of miles out to a large iceberg. .\t 7.25 p. m. left again and went around this tongue; encountered
a dense fog and lost sight of land for awhile; continued on down the coast, very dense fog continuing. In
two and a half hours met ice again, extending out from shore indefinitely; could not get by and ran into
shore, reaching it at 10.05 p. ni. Jewell, Ellis, anil Frederick were sent down to Cape Louis Napoleon,
some few miles ahead of us. Some of the men went to work on the tongue of the Hoe projecting against
the shore, which seems to form the principal obstacle to our progress. It has now cleared up slightly. I
went to sleep about 10.30.

2 a. m. Was wakened up and we started. It was found impossible to get along the shore, but a lead
had been seen out from shore by the iceberg, and we took a course in this direction. Stopped at the berg
and took a look. Reached shore again by making a long detour around tlic floating pack. Continued on
through dense fog, rendering it necessary to hug the shore very closely. 4.10 a.m., reached Cape Louis

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THE LADY FUANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Napoleon. Hear tracks seen in the snow on shore. Got to bed about 4.30 a. m.; got up about 9 a. m.
Jans [Jens] shot a big seal alongside the launch, but ho sank. 9,15 a. ni., left Cape Lnuia Napoleon. It
was very foggy and the opposite coast rould not be seen, but we took a course southwest by the sun, went
ahead some time until ice .ippeared ahead pretty thick, when we turned to the right and took a course by the
bay. Got near the other shore, but could not get in on account of the ice. Went down the bay again, keeping
near the east shore. Exceedingly foggy. Found nothing at all could be seen in any direction. 1.15 p. m.
reached Cape Hawkes ; came by the west side of Washington Irving Island. 4.25 p. m., started from Cape
Hawkes, having found the English depot of rations. We got five boxes of hard bread, keg of rum, 12 cans
of potatoes, &c. Weather very fine ; calm and clear. Steamed from Hawkes for some time in the open
water, but after a few miles came to floating ice, which gradually became thicker. Boats took the launch
in tow for awhile, Frederick having something to repair about the engine. 9.30 p. m., stopped in the floe
in Princess Marie 15ay, it being thought unadvisable to attempt going farther.

August 27. — 7 a. m., got up after a good sleep on my sleeping-bag on the floe. Sky overcast and foggy.
No land in sight-. Israel makes our longitude 73 deg. west, latitude 79 deg. 22 min., assumed. Temperature
possibly about 22 degrees [—5.6° C] last night. There are a great many dangers in being out in the straits in
this wet [way], but probably it is better than the other alternative. The English had great difficulty in crossing
AUman Bay, having to wade through young ice fcur inches thick [102"""]. This they managed to accom-
plish, but of course, the little kunvh could never get through any such ice. There must be some outlet drift
here, so mat even if we are held here sevi.'ral days we ought to make several miles south. I blame myself
a dozen times a day for leaving my seal-skin coat behind; it would be just the thing here; but it was left
under the understanding that no surplus clothing was to be brought A rule which has not l)een held to by
every one. I find tilat one of my seal-skin boots is too short entirely. I have nothing besides bu' an old
pair of moccasins. We now have what coal remains in the bunkers. Indeed, one of them is not half full.
However, we got a good many barrel staves, i\;c., at Cape Hawkes, and with any kind of luck ought to be
able to reach Littleton Island with the launch. It is much to be desired. I feel no confidence in finding a
ship at Littleton Island, but if we could get there with the launch, the coal left there in 1881 would probably
enable us to reach dv; Carey Islands, where we could live on the English cache until next spring. Failing to
find stores or a ship at Littleton I.sland, or to reach Carey Islands, our position would be deplorable in the
extreme, and oui —jry existence would depend on being able to find a living with the Eskimo above Cape
York and that region. Of course, reaching Littleton Island is now sine qua iwn. 9 p. m. The sky cleared
off in the afternoon and the coa.st became cl;\ar. Result of compass observation by Isiael seems to show a
slight motion of our floe towards the west anci north.

Compass bearings from floe, Cape Hawkes, 312, 311, 311. North Cape, AUman Bay, 253, 255, 256.

August 28. — 8.15 a. m. got up. 9 a. m., compass bearings, Cape Hawkes, 309, 310, 311, 312 (305 ^.)
Compass bearings. Cape X, 254;4:, 260, 252^, 252)4;, 2481^, 257, 257, 251^. West end of big berg, 92, 109,
107, 99, loi. Weather clear and perfectly calm. Young ice thicker. No apparent change in our position.
A tripod of masts has been erected on the floe, from which we can get an outlook. A proposition was made
to Lieutenant Greely to reduce the rations, but he thinks it is not necessary to do so. Green tea and
pe.iimican are the staple articles of diet. The tea has very little sugar and is very bitter. The potatoes are
used to some extent. It was two or three hours last night before 1 got to sleep, owing to cold feet. I have
nothing under my bag between it and the snow, and it gets very damp. Several seals made their appear-
ance last night, but none were shot A guil ^burgomaster) also came near.

9 p. m. turned in. I have gjt the small s.iil of die " Phalarope" [licdumout], which put under my bag
renders it much more comforiable. The sky has cluiided over, a sign perhaps of the much hoped fi)r wind.
The most of the men have been walking on the floe this evening, singinr. liiis floe is about 1 50 yards [137'"]
ac.oss in its widest part. The young ice grows thicker. Weaie in a very precarious position, Thus beset, with
only 30 days' rations, is n serious matter. There is no wind at present. The temperature last night fell .ns
low .IS + '3 <legrees [—10.6° C.[. The comjjass bearings, as well as lineaments of objects on shore, seem
to establish a slight eastern [northern ?J as well as westerly movement. At the same time, Lsracl's observa-
tions t i-day gave us 79 deg. 23 min. latitude, which mokes farther north than yesterday. The time passes
very monotonously. As for me, give me risks and dangers of action rather than this dead calm. If there is
help awaiting us at Littleton Island, we are probably all right. If not, I am afraid, very much afraid, and it
will be almost impossible to reach the Corey Islands unless we get out of this sound very soon. Time is
precious.

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tHE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

375

Aiif^iist 29. — 7.15 a. in. breakfast — pcniniicaii and coffee. The coffee very weak and witliout milk
or sugar whicli one can detect. Sky overcast but no wind. Young ice looks thicker. The whole day
passed after l)rcakfast in sitting beside the engine in a very crowded position. The stern sheets occupied by
Greely and others in the sleejiing-bags. Some of the men have made use of water found on the ice near
by, to wasli. I am one of those who remain unchanged and about as black as a sweep. 9.30 j). m.,
turned in. Tlu; sun set behind tl\e clifis to the west about 9 o'clock. Overcast, though clear most of the
day. This evening the sun has been shining brightly. Spent the last two hours in promenading the floe,
thinking a litde of everything. Wind, wind, wind is what we want. We seem to have drifted somewhat
to the south during tlie nay, liut hardly more than a mile, if that. The pickles obtained at Cape Hawkes
were oi)ened for supper. The young ice lies all around. The spirits of the men seem (juite good, consid-
ering our position. The sij.',nal flag flies from the io\i of the tripod. Thermometer today not so low. It
has been decided to let the '."ire on tlie launch go out altogether. Barrel staves and one bunker of coal is
now about ail we Ivive in the way of fuel. Bender is sleeping out on the floe to-day in Lieutenant Grcely's
sleeping-!)ag. Some open water i)0(j1s were noti('ed to-day in the distance. Cape Hawkes bears north
ZT, (leg. east.

Allium/ 30. — Still in the same place. 7 a. m., breakfast — sour tea and pemmican stew. The lowest
temperature last night was + 10 degrees | — 12.2° Cj. Morning clear and calm ; sun shining brightly. Our
floe seems to have drifted out from shore a little farther, but hardly approachable to the south. Walked the
floe until 9 o'clock and then got in my sleeping-bag. Fre lerik [Christiansen] crossed a small pool near the
launch on the young ice. At the present rate it will soon be thick enough to bear. Meridian observation
by Israel to-day makes our latitude 79 deg. 22 min. even. An inventory of the rations was taken to-day.
It seems we have 1,140 pounds of meat and i,ioo pounds of bread — about 50 days' rations of bread and
meat, inclmr ig some souj). There are also some potatoes, stearine, cranberries, and a little sugar.

8 [). m., turned in, after tramping tlie floe for n(;arly two hours. Sky overcast, with slight air starting
from the south. Council has been looking towards Cape Sabine, in which direction he thinks he saw a
smoke or something like one. This life is worse than anything. This daily inaction is more trying to me
than want of sleep and any amount of risks. The longitude, as found Ijy Israel in the af:ernoon, was 73
deg. 45 min. Sup|)er to-night c:ooked with stearine. Tea boiled in half-hour. The air is just cold enough
to make it uncomfortable unless on the move. It is a constant effort to keep one's feet and hands warm
unless exercising. Three gulK [burgomasters ?| seen to-day. The red signal flag flies from the top of the
tripoil. All around is a vast expanse of ice and snow, broken on the west by the rocky cliffs and the snow-
covereti mountains behind. Hearing of Cape Hawkes to-day north 17 deg. E.

Aii):;iist 31. — lireakfast at the usual hour. Morning c'oudy, snowing, with light wind from the north.
The boats put up their sails as coverings. I returned the small sail I had been using and went aboard the
launch with my bag. Lieutenant (Ireely, Isiael, and Hiederbick slept in the buffalo sleeping-bag, I in my
seal-skin bag, and Mender in Lieutenant Greely's bag, stretched on the bunk by the engine; I-inn and Fred-
erick forward, as usual. The ice remains apparently in statu quo. All land is invisible. 9.30 p. m., tem-
jjcrature 28.8 [—1.8° C.[. It has been 32 deg. [0.0° C] (iiU'ing the day, and perhaps higher. This rise in
the temi)erature has made a percc[)tii)le different'e on the ice. There is a good ileal of sludge on the bare
spots on the floe where the snow has not .ippearetl, and which have formed our promenades. The young ice
recently formed also looked rotten. Fredenk [Cliristiansen] says it won't bear now. The other day I walked
across the small pool near the launch. It has been cloudy all day, and we had a light north wind, but very
light, and it made no percc])tible difference in our surroundings. The American flag now floats alongside
the signal flag from the top of the tripod. Lieutenant Creely to-day approached the subject of our stay here,
provided, of course, the young ice forms thick enough to bear. He mentions the loth of September as the
limit of time it would be advisable to stay waiting for the wind to break up the floes so that we can proceed
by boat. In this regard I agreed with him. He [jropo^es, howeve.*, to take along but one boat, in case we
sledge it over the ice, thinking we could not take more than one. We only have one pair of runners. I
said 1 thought it a ver/ serious matter to ])roceed with one boat only, and we ought at least to attempt to
take two; to make tliC attempt at least. In case of our departure with one boat, our situation would be
terrible should we meet with a wide jad of open water, or even a comparatively narrow one, with fog and
snow ; and in case Littleton Isla. A were reached and no help found there, our situation would be again
extremely critical with but one boat, knowing of course but half of the party ctnild be transfjorted at a time
in this way. We have now two recourses of escape. One is by boat as heretofore, which is contingent on

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THE LADY FllANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

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the ice breaking up. The other is over the ice, which is contingent on the young ice getting thick enough
to bear. Rice told me to-day that when on Washington Irving Island he thought a ship could have got up
to that piece. It makes it more unexplainable why we have seen no ship, and to my mind makes it
extremely douL'<"il of our seeing a ship or meeting any help at Littleton Island.

This morning it snowed and I brought my bag in the launch. The stern has been hitherto occupied
by Lieutenant Greely, Biederbick, and Bender, and now myself. Fred^ i -ck and Linn sleep forward.
Bender made use of some expressions to-day on account of which Lieutenant Greely made him move on to
one of the boats, or rather insisted on his doing as he threatened to do. Israel announces a slight drift since
yesterday towards the east and south. I feel some doubt, however, as from bearings on shore, though we
have got farther towards the east, I cannot see that we have gone south any. Reading matter is scarce. I
brought along a few Shakespeare pamphlets and the Nineteenth Century. We have Kane, Hayes, and Nares
on the launch, and the Arctic Papers (English) of 1876. The stearine does very well, though it makes a disa-
greeable smoke.

September i, Saturday. — Breakfast at the usual hour, 7 a. m. Morning overcast, but clear. No wind.
Slight movement to the east during the night. During the night two walrus were heard near by. The
Eskimo said they were walrus. (Mean memorandum of) [minimum] temperature 26 deg. [ — 3.3° C.J. Tem-
perature at this hour a degree or two higher. I did not get to sleep until about 3 o'clock this morning
owing to the cramped condition of my body, heat of the sleeping-bag, &c. Meridian observation made our
latitude 79 deg. 19 min., probably correct within half a mile. A small seal was brought in by Frederik [Chris-
tiansen] and Jans [Jens]. They got him on the ice a mile or two oft", having to cross a few recently frozen
lanes en route. Cape Hawkes bears north 14 deg. E. 8.30 p. m., fog around the horizon; island con-
cealed. Clear overhead, however. At 2.35 p. m. the ice all around in every direction suddenly commenced
to move, and the young ice was speedily crushed. The ice adjoining began to make an attack on the launch
and boats. The boats were readily hauled out of the water on the floe. The pressure on the launch pushed
her up until there was danger of her going over altogether. However, she rose beautifully until the pressure
was relieved, and thus remained for many hours. Everything was hastily thrown out on the floe, as we did
not know at what moment she might be on her beam end. The ice all around continued in motion, one
floe moving one way and another another. We all stood and stood around surveying the scene. About 6
o'clock p. m. the pressure was relieved with the ebb-tide probably, and the launch righted herself. Since
the nip the horizon has been quite foggy, so that the amount of drift cannot be determined. The sun shone
during the afternoon and was warm and comfortable. Frederik [Christiansen] shot a seal to-day, and we
had supper of seal, liked very much by every one. Several pools and lanes of open water have appeared at
different times, and the ice all about seems quite loose. There is a chance of our being able to get away
to-night and the boiler has been refilled with water. Frederik [Christiansen] and Jans [Jens], who went
out after the seal about the time the commotion in the ice occurred, had some diflficulty in getting back to
the floe, but accomplished it by means of the kyak. I did not get to sleep until 3 o'clock this morning.
This evening Lieutenant Greely, Israel, [and] Biederbick are sleeping in the three-man bag on the floe. I
have the stern of the launch to myself. Frederick and Linn are also on board. Jans [Jensj shot a small
seal shortly before midnight.

September 2. — .\t midnight last night we had another nip. The launch was lifted bodily up until she
was completely out of water, and raised on an even keel. I got up during the commotion, but turned in
again. The launch is besides much washed by the loosening in the ice an hour or so afterwards. The coni
motion continued at intervals during the night, but I got to sleep abv;ut 2 o'clock and 1 now of nothing
more. 8 a. m,, got up to breakfast. Seal meat very good. The sky completely hidden except around
the horizon, where it is clear ne.-^rly to top of the cliflfs. The ije is now practically quiet. -The boats are
all on the ice and most of the men in their sleeping-bags. Lowest temperature during the night 16°
[—8.9° C.J. Cape Hawkes now bears north 15 deg. E. We have probably made a good deal of southing
during the last twenty-four hours. Victoria Head looks much nearer. All the seals shot have been small
harbor seals. It is cohl and disagreeable, and the only way of being at all comfortable is to lie in the sleep-
ing-bag or promenade the floe. The former seems to be the most popular, i o'clock p. in., waked up
after nap. Foggy, cold, and cheerless. All around is ice, A few pools of water filled with sludge here
and there. Between the floes the sludge is pressed very close; in some jilaces almost conqiact enough to
bear one's weight. Every once in a while the ice alongside niakes a movement with a slow grinding
noise. The launch is now again being raised by the jiressurej though not much as yet. I have got used

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

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111

to this "'n a manner, and lie and listen to it without rising, unless the commotion is violent. I wonder what
they are doing at home. How often 1 think of the dear ones there. The dangers and uncertainties ahead
of us are not alleviated by the thought of the concern felt on my account by those at home. Most of us,
I think, have given up the idea of getting home this fall. I dread another winter in this country more than
1 <lo anything else. The late commotion in the ice has separated from us a small adjoining tloc on which
was a little basin of fresh water. This floe is only a little ways off, but at present we are cut off from our
supply of water. Light south wind blowing. The ice groans and creaks against the launch as point after
point of her bilge gives way before the pressure. 9 p. m., turned in. The nip first referred to raised the
launch until her keel was almost on a level with the floe. She remained some time thus and then gradually
settled as the pressure was relieved. We had seal again for supper — the one killed by Jans [JensJ. It is
cooked with bacon, &c., and is very good. The ice remains pretty much in stitlii i/iio. It opened up some-
what about supper time and several pools of open water appeared, but they resulted in nothing. Our floe
was evidently formed in the stnaits and is not ])aleocrystic. A search was made after supper for a larger ;
but though a larger one is near it does not possess any more advantages. Meals are now cooked altogether
with stearine. 1 1 p. m., moved the launch and boats to a large floe about a (juarter of a mile to the south-
west, adjoining our old floe.

Siptemher 23 [3d]. — 8 a. m., breakfast, seal meat. Morning overcast. Sun visible at times through the
clouds. A bearing of Victoria Head makes that cape south 86 W. The ice around has been (juite quiet.
The boats are pulled well up on the floe, entirely out of the water. The launch is moored to the ice near
by. I suffer a great deal in my hands; very extremely sensitive, more so I suppose than any one else in
the party. It is calm with slight air as starting from the south. A meridian observation by Israel makes our
latitude 79 deg. 15.6 min. The sun to-day, as on many odier occasions, was just visible at noon. Whis-
ler re-enlisted to-day. Our old floe has got ahead of us, and is now some hundred yards to the south. This
afternoon, while lying on my bag, I heard the words "Give up," and presently heard Lieutenant Greely
call out to Lieutenant Kislingbury and call him to account for criticising his actions with the men ; he said
that such conduct was but one step from mutiny, as it fomented discontent, &c. Kislingbury denied having
said anything that could be so considered, or wishing to cause any dissatisfaction among the men, &c.
Sometime afterwards Lieutenant Greely called the doctor, 1-lice, Brainard, and Kislingbury in the launch, and,
commencing with Kislingbury, asked each their opinion as to what ought or ought not to be done, stating
that our situation was certainly very grave, that we were working for our lives, and he would be glad to have
the opinion of each of them. Kislingbury recommended abandoning the launch and making the shore
with one or two boats, and "gang [going] around" 15uciianan .Strait, which beseemed to think was a bay,
and thus coasting along shore until we reached Cape Sabine. The doctor's plan was to abandon evcry-
tliiii}; but one boat, make the shore, and thus get along. I recommended starting in a day or two. Rice, lirain-
ard, and I were of opinion that it was best to leave matters /'// statu i/uo, drifting along as at ])resent, and
making no immediate move, leaving circumstances to shape our course afterwards to a greater or less extent.
This last is, I think, about what Lieutenant Greely intends. So many obstacles and tlifficulties ])resent them-
selves in the face of any course of action, that it is extremely difficult to make up one's mind, but they
decided for the present that we cannot do better than to remain just i s at present. There may be help for
us at Cape Sabine, and I think our best course is to make Littleton Island via that place. liy doing this
we have rations (250) at Cape Sabine, and an opportunity of remaining iliC.e till the ice gives us a chance
to get across. Lieutenant Greely seems to have an idea that after a while the young ice will form and cement
the floes together, so that we can get along by sledge and one boat, in which case he thinks of going directly
for Littleton Island. I doubt, however, if we are ever able ti do this. During the months of September
and October 1 think the ice will be always broken up and in motion. Lieutenant Greely tells me we have
rations at the present rate of allowance to last to November i —that is, bread, meat, jjotatoes, and fuel. J
go on watch from 10 to 11 p. m., in order to make a kind of "dog watch." Breakfast hereafter is to be
at 7 a. m. Our present tloe is about half a mile in diameter and near circular in shape. A blubber lamp
is kei)t burning for the smokers. The smokers had two and a (luarter pounds of tobacco promised to be
shared to them on the 1st.

September 4. — Breakfast at <S, We have drifted several miles since yesterday, though Israel did not suc-
ceed in getting observation at noon, it being very cloudy. Victoria Head at that time bore one and a hall
degress north of west. A large berg that has l)een near us for several days seemed nearer this morning, and Con-
nell, with Frederik C. [Christiansen] was sent over to it ; shortly afterwards I went over and joined them at the

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berg. The distance is about a mile as you have to travel. Two large floes intervene between us and it. I saw
several leads and pools of open water from the top of the berg, which is probably loo feet [30'"] high, to
the northeast and the northwest, I'vrc. Tletwecn the berg and shore was a good deal of open water also, or
what might be called very loose ice. I saw nothing, however, which offered an opportunity for us to \iro-
ceed. This berg had a kind of valley about its center, in which were a number of stones. Connell said
there was fresh water in her. Young ice immediately around the berg, but thick enough to walk on. One
of the floes we crossed was moving, its edge grinding against the next. This afternoon Jans |Jens] shot a
small seal. This makes the fourth. He got the usual reward, a drink of rum. ."novving this afternoon.
The sii|)plies were taken out of the launch to-day and work on the sledge begun. It is to be a small sledge,
not one able to carry a boat. Some of the sails were also cut up in order to make a tent. It is round in
form like a Sibley tent. The su])ports are formed of a number of oars, like the lodge poles of an Indian
lodge. 9.30 p. ni., a lead 0[)ening up towards the south, the boats were launched, and we started in that direc-
tion, pushing the launcli along as best we could. Steam in the mean time was got up. Proceeded about one
hour, wlien about the time we were ready to use the steam we came to the end of the lead and moored to a
small paleocrystic floe of berg. Leads made their appearance further on, but at present there is no chance
of reaching them. The lead referred to seems to describe a semicircle, about the mi<ldle of which is in a
line tow.irds the south from here. Comp.ass bearings of Victoria and Altert Heads from here give for the
former 8}4 degrees north of west, and the latter S. 34 degrees \^ . "'his afternoor from our former floe
Victoria Head bore ^j.^ ilegrees north of west, and Albert Head S. 34 W. In the afternoon the tbrmcr was
3 degrees north of west, and the latter S. 34° west. The same as seemed here. Warm enough, so got up.
We are probably one and a half miles from our former position. The ice at the present hour, midnight, is
sfiueezing in on us slowly. The boats are hauled up on the floe. The floe has a low mound in the center.

Siptiinber 5. — Remained up until about 2 o'clock a. m. trying to soften my moccasins; or, rather,
they aie seal-skin soles. My seal-skin boots are about played out. Besides the sole of one being too short,
tlie material is rotten. My one consolation is that I can manage to make out .about as long as we have rations
with us, provided there is no sledging over the ice and there is no snow, for in that case I do not know
what I should do. Got up to breakfast — coffee and pemmican, hard bread and butter. Sky clear and
weather very fine, the sun sliining brightly — a great boon in this God-forsaken country. Meridian observa-
tions by Israel makes our latitude 79 deg. 8.6 min. We are not very far off Albert Head ; it looks quite
near. After breakfast I slept until about noon. The fire under the boiler has been allowed to go out. The
American Hag is displayed at the top of the long pole from the top of our ice mound. The ice crowded
against the launch somewhat last night, but there was no particular pressure that I know of. Temperature
this evening 13 degrees [—10.6° C.J. Cle.ar and cold. The cooking is still done on the snow. We seem
to be drifting along quite rai)idly. It is hard to keep warm. Little to do but remain in the sleeping-bag.
It is terribly monotonous. I have .abandoned my seal-skins, but not yet succeeded in getting my moccasins
in working order. They are much ripped and torn. Jans [Jens] went out in his kyak to get a seal, but
did not g>H him.

September 6. — Breakfast of seal meat, as at supper last night. Compass bearings by Israel about 9
o'clock : Victoria Head, 29 degrees north of west ; Albert Head 2,Z degrees south of west. We seem to drift
a little north with the ebb-tide generally, though sometimes remain stationary. Morning overcast ; air clear.
Temperature 23 degrees [ — 5.0° C.J. Snowed last night. A lead upwards of a mile long made its appear-
ance, which would have enabled us to proceed towards the south, but not enough to make it worth while
tfi cast ofT from our floe, so it was considered. Biederbick has gone to the boats to sleep for the last two
nights, so now Lieuttenant Greely and Israel and myself are the only ones who sleep in the stern. My moc-
casins are very ragged, and will recpiire much sewing to make them serviceable. The soles are intact. It is
their uppers. Meridian observation makes our latitude 79 degrees 6.9 min. A slight wind has recently
started in from the north. Dead calms, and southerly breezes have been the prevailing winds. 3.30 p. m.
snowing. The tent has been erected over two boats. The other h.as sails. Long shot a small seal (harbor
seal). Jans [Jens] brought it in by means of his ky.ak. 7.30 p. m., supper. Cold north wind blowing quite
fresh. Our neighboring berg seems to be moving along faster than we, and at one time it looked very much
.as if it were going to come in against our floe.

September 7. — i p. m., latitude by meridian observation 79 dog. 0.6 min. A gale from the north and
northeast has been blowing since yesterday, accompanied at times by snow. The wind has been moderating
somewhat, but still we arc going along southward, as is shown by sights on shore. The wind has crowded

TUB LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

379

the ice together very niucli, and no opun water is to be seen in any ih'rection. Our neiglilioring berg is
now very close, hardly more than 50 yards [46'"] distant, and apparently will get closer, and perlui|)s come
in contact with our floe. Our floe is about 200 yards [183"'] across. Almost circular in form. It is
undoubtedly very thick and would stand a good deal of pressure. Quite a number of seals intimate their
appearance at different times, but only one has been shot so far. We have jiassed C'ajie Albert, and are
now about opposite Cape Camperdown. We have moved in quite close to the land. Probably it is not
more than three miles distant. The coast from Cape Sabine to Alexandra Harbor is (piite distinct. Last
night the Greenland coast in the neighborhood of Cape Inglefield was quite plain. Last night we were in
danger of a nip at various times, but escaped, fortunately; i)robably the tongues of ice under water projecting
from the floes saved us. Temperature this afternoon 22 degrees [ — 5-6° C.],.ind now 23 degrees [ — 5.0° C.J.
Barometer 29.38 [746.24"""]. It is now going up. Cape Sabine bearings at noon 353^ degrees I'',. Ik'ar-
ings as tested by Israel this afternoon 105 deg. 09 min. Bearings b.therto assumed no [degrees], according
to Knglish map. The wind went down during the afternoon to almost a calm. The sun came out and it
was clear and fine.

9 p. m., thermometer 5 <legrees [—15.0° C]. Clear and calm. ]?ender made my spoon. The men
have got a walk four feet [i.2'"| wide around the little hill and running near tlie floe. 10.15 1'- "i- retired
to rest after a run aijout the floe for exercise. It is now perfectly calm. There is some danger of our being
froxen up. The situation looks more serious.

AV//(7///'(7' 8. — Thermometer rose during the afternoon to 12 degrees [ — 11.1° C.[. Calm and per-
fectly clear, and no wind. The sludge became frozen together during the night, and this morning l''red-
erik [Christiansen] went over to the berg. I went shorUy afterwards, and was shordy joined by Lieutenant
Cireely and Rice. The berg is about 100 y.ards [.about 90"'] off. A compar.atively broad lane of open
water or young ice extends from Cape Camperdown two-thirds the w.ay toward the Alexandra Harbor, and
except thus no open water could be seen. The ice is very rough and extends in every direction. There are
floes, and some of them are large and many very sni.ill and separated by a good deal of sludge. All this
is now fro/.en together, and the sledges are being got ready for our dei)arture on the ice. We have the
English twelve-man sledge, and a small one made from the seats of the launch. The runners are formed
from the bands which encased the packing around the boiler. It is now intended to start day after to-
morrow, or perhai)s to-morrow night. The berg I visited is about a ([uarter of a mile or more across,
broken up by several little valleys. In these v.alleys are several bowlders and stones. This berg is probably
75 or 100 feet [about 20 or 30'"! high. There are sever.al other bergs around, one of tliem very large,
almost like an island in its dimensions. It is proposed to take two boats anil abandon one and the launch.
The thermometer went below zero [ — 17 8° C] last night. Bearings on shore indicate that we have moved
none at all, or very little since yesierday. With die ice in its present condition this is not at .all surprising.
Latitude by meridian observation 79 deg. 0.6 min,, the same as yesterday. A walrus was seen last night
and shot at by Connell and odiers. They say he came within three feet [.9"'], and though repeatedly hit
the shots seemed to have no efiect. After awhile a walrus was heard blowing and breaking through the
ice near by. Perh.ips it was some [same] one. 7.30 p. m., supper. We had the last of the seal. Thermom-
eter went up again to 19 degrees [ — 7.2° C.j. Connell says they fired a great many shots a the walrus,
and none of them seemed to do him any harm. No less than seven shots took effect. Ri:m to-night and
night before last.

September 9. — 12 m., lowest temperature last night 8.5 [ —13.1° C] degrees. Cloudy. This forenoon
it has been blowing somewhat fresh from the northeast with snow. Still we do not move app.arently. 'I'he
young ice grows thicker, and preparations aie under way to abandon the launch to-morrow. A council
was called this morning, and the doctor, Kislingbury, Rice, Brainard, and myself, with Lieutenant Greely, and
suggestions asked and given with regard to the details of our sledge trip. Two. or three miles a day are
undisputed. There ave seven three-man sleeping-bags and four single bags. An extra bag brought thus
far (sheep-skin) is being cut up for sleeping socks and soles. Many of the men are witliout sleeping-socks.
Lieutenant Creely e:itimates the total weightto be hauled, including the two boats, at 6,500 pounds. We have
one Knglish twelve-man sledge, one Eskimo sledge, imi)rovised here, pretty much the same as an ordinary
dog-sledge, and ".iso one little hand-sledge about three feet [.9"'] long. The launch is to be left chained to
the floe. Steam is got up on the launch to-day in order to blow the boiler dry. All are well of the jjarty
so far. Biederbick is perh.aps an invalid, as he complains of rheumatism. Bender and Long are not

' 1 1

\\\

380

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

strong, and are liable at any time to break down, but at present they seem all right. Our course is to be
to or in the vicinity of Cocked Hat Island, and on reaching sliore several things will be left in cache, it
being thought advisable to take everything thus far and there abandon them.

{) '

i 1

SLEDilE TRIP.

Se/>(einf>er 10 {ist iH(in/i). — Snowing off and on all day. Lieutenant Greely had determined to start
to-day but postjioned departure on account of the storm. Shortly after noon, however, it cleared somewhat
so that the coast near Cape Sal)ine could be seen. 1.45 p. ni., everything being ready, we started with
ti English boat /ieaiiinoii/, or " I'halarope," as the men call it. Reached camp about one and a rjuarter miles
distant from the launch at 7.15 p. m. It took one and a ijuarter hours to move the J^'<<iii>h<»i/ iind load
(total with sledge about 1,700 pounds) this distance, hauled by fourteen men. After getting this boat
up we went back for the whale-boat. It required two hours to move the whale-boat up. Total weight
about 2,100 poun<ls; 700 pounds arc allowed for each boat in this case. Uoth the small sledges impro-
vised broke down, but the larger of the two was repaired so as to haul one load to our cam[). After
getting in the whale-boat I went back with a dozen men and hauled in the balance of the stuff" which had
been moved from tlie launch a short distance by the improvised sledge referred to. Snowing all the after-
noon and very foggy, so as to conceal island and the nearest shore (Cape Camperdown, &:c.). The launch
[Li7/fy Gire/v] and tlie red boat [ Vu/droiis] were abandoned. A record was left on the launch. In the tfpce
improvised twelve men sleep. Lieutenant Greely, myself, Israel, Dr. I'avy, Frederick, Henry, &c. The rest of
the men sleep in the two boats, our sails forming protection. The " turtle-back " of the launch has been cut ui
])ieces to go under the sleeping-bags in the /(•/ec. The traveling to-day has been through heavy snow, with a
few small lakes of level ice, but so few as hardly to deserve notice. Cooking was done in the UJ>cr for all hands.

September 11 {id march). — 7.15 a. m., breakfast. Morning overcast and calm with very slight breeze.
I did not go to sleep until after midnight. Lieutenant Oreely thought at first he would not start on account
of the weather, but afterwards it cleared somewhat. 8.35 a. m., started off Made about one and a
([uarter miles. Probably two miles of latitude have been made during the last two days. Started off"
witii the Beaumont, which we hauled to the second camp in one and a half hours. Then returned and
brought on whale-boat in one hour, and a third load we had everything in one and a quarter hours. It took
an hour to get back to the old camji. Reached camj) with the last load at 3 p. ni. I went over the route
as yesterday five times. Lncountered several bands of rubble-ice, but got through without much trouble.
Our general course since leaving the launch has been for Cocked Hat Island, l-'or several hours during
the march the island was invisible, and it snowed very heavily. Afterwards, shortly after we had returned
to camp, it cleared somewhat. The route ahead seems very good. A very wide |)aleocrystic Hoe with many
small lakes of young ice in the surface. We have found water at every camp and jjlenty also on the road.
Noticed a great difilerence between the little lakes of fresh water and the surface of exposed ice with .salt
water underneath. On the latter the sledges moved very hard. Over the former they go with more ease.
After getting in we had a lunch of tea and stew saved from breakfast. A half gill of rum was also served
out. The traveling to-day has been through heavy snow nearly knee deep, varied in ii^w places by little
lakes of smooth ice nearly free of snow. During the afternoon Sergeant Brainard and the doctor went over
towards Cocked Hat Island and gained a large berg in that direction. The floe we are now on ends about
two miles from here. The traveling over it Brainard reports as through dceji snow, though lor some dis-
tance from camp here there are several little lakes which offer a good route. lieyond this floe Brainard and
the doiior report great masses of rubble-ice which extends all the way to the shore apparently. Brainard
and the doctor feel sure that they heard dogs bark ofT in the direction of Cape Cain|)erdown or to the south
of it. They heard them three times in succession. After coming back a flag was displayed from a neighbor-
ing hummock, and a rifle discharged six times. The oudook at present is rather gloomy. However, if there
is help at Sabine we are all right. Indeed, if there is help at Littleton Island we ought not to despair of
reaching it, working as w'j are for our lives. Another council of war to night, the result of the report of the
doctor and Brainard. Most recommended moving on to the berg ahead, I among the number. However,
the decision arrived at is to stay here. Rice with Jans [Jens] goes out in the mor.iing to reconnoiter. Fred-
erick with Cress went back to the steam-launch and got a box of matches left.

Septemlier 12 {la^ over). — Breakfast at 8 a. m. Air tolerably clear, though the sky is overcast. Rice
with tho kyak, doctor, and Jans fj ens], left at 8^4 o'clock. Thermometer, 17 degrees [ — 8.3° C] (mean
memorandum) [minimum]; last night, 17 degrees [—8.3° C.]. It seems now tiiat we have ratiouK enough

THE LADY FRANKLIN liAY EXPEDITION.

381

at the full rate to last forty days more, so Lieutenant Clreely said last night. Men'.Iian observation, 78 degrees
58.9 min. Sight not very satisfactory, but probably not more than two-tentlis [of a mile] out. Sun came out
very bright and warm at about 10.30, but afterwards became obscure again. Rice, doctor, and Jans [Jens]
are out; also, Kislingbury and Connell. Hung sleejiing-bag, ike, out to dry.

I p. m., Kislingbury returned. Shortly after him Sergeant Rice, iVc. Kislingbury rejiorted sees mass of
rubble-ice under the young ice, and saw little chance of ])roceeding beyond through present tloe. His
report was very unfavorable. Shortly after this Rice came along. He an<l Rice [Pavy] said that to the east
of the berg, or rather to the east of Cocked Hat Island, the rubble-ice on the floe joined close on to the
floe we are now on, and here the young ice lake narrowed to a mere crack. Crossing here anil going through
upwards of a mile of rubble-ice, they came to a small floe, or it seemed a series of floes, which extended
towards Sabine, or to thi west of it, into land ap|)arently. Lieutenant Kislingbury, the doctor, Rice, and
myself recommended tint the whale-boat be abandoned, which was accortlingly done. We expect to fmd
boats at Cape Sabine. Lieutenant (ireely gave the order to start ; 2.10 p. m., we started with the Htaitmont,
and in one hour and twenty minutes reached the end of the floe, where, meeting rubble-ice and a tidal
crack, it was decided to go no farther. The small sledge improvised the other day brought up about 500
pounds. Returned, and the load came in fifty minutes, and took the rest of the load to the advance camp
again in one hour and fifteen minutes, or at 6.15 p. m. J [ere we camped. Last share of sugar made [issued |
this morning at breakfast. Hear tracks seen to-day on the floe; also fox tracks. Traveling to-day very
good comparatively, as of there being a series of small pools or lakes of ice on the surface of the floe.
These were covered with about two inches [about 50"""] of snow. Course winding, but (juite easy, over
these places. Retired to bed about 9 o'clock. Rum to-night ; also last night and the night before.

September 13. — 7.30 a. m., started. Hreak through the young ice, frozen after starting; no damage
done. Much rubb'e-ice. Latitude of camp by meridian observation, 79 [78] deg. 56.9 min. Hearing with
Cape Sabine, S. 12 degrees; Cocked Hat Island, S. 35 degrees W. Much rubble-ice encountered with small
floes. Sledge broke through young ice twice. Bender went through and got wet. * . 1 over the route five
times, first advance occujjied one hour and fifty-five minutes; second return sixty-five minutes; second
advance one hour and twenty minutes ; third advance one and a half hours. Saw a walrus. Broke through
ice within 35 yards [about 10'"] of sledge. Narwhals seen last night, or rather their holes. Fresh bear tracks
seen to-day by Brainard ahead of our camp. Sun shone during the afternoon for a few hours. The land
now begins to look (piite near. The distance from here to the island is put vaguely at from four miles to
ten miles. Got in the camp at 3.15 p. m.

September 14. — 7.45 a. m., started from camp. Encountered a great deal of rubble-ice. First half-mile
very much indeed. Made two trijjs, going over the road three times. The small sledge broke tlown while
going on the second time, and it was nece.ssary to send small .sledge back for it. I did not go back. First
advance this morning occupied 3 hours; it took one and a half hours to get back for the second load and
then two and a quarter hours to bring the load on. \Valrus seen to-day by Brainard while in advance.
Large sledge reached camp at 3.35 p. m. Violent SW. gale came on shortly after noon ; blowing big guns.

Lieutenant Greely and the doctor had rather a hot argument about supper time. The substance of it
was that the doctor said if his advice had been followed he would be at Fort Conger now. This Lieutenant
Greely denied. He also said that he had heard Lieutenant Greely give Sergeant Brainard orders this morn-
ing to take a direct course for Cape Sabine. Sergeant Brainard, on bemg call'jd on, said that Lieutenant
Greely ordered him to go ahead to the nearest shore, and, other things being ev;ual, to take a route midway
between Cocked Hat Island and Cape Sabine. The discussion got quite warm, and criminations and recrim-
inations ensued. The doctor suddenly left the tent. The small sledge broke down and diti not get in till
5 p. m. Walrus seen to-day. Since the gale we seem to have drifted to the north or northeast, accord-
ing to report. Distance traveled to-day about two and a quarter miles. Grin<ling noise of the moving pack
heard all day to the east. Brainard ano Jans [Jens], who went ahead selecting, and saw evidences of ice
to the south towards the shore. The wind died down altogether about 8 p. ni. Our course to-day has
been a little to the east- of Cocked Hat Island. Tiie issue of pemmican and corned beef commenced
to-night.

Latitude by meridian observation, 78 deg. 54.8 min. Water at this camp. We are fortunate in being
able to find water at all our camps so far. It has been readily got by cutting through the surface of the
little lakes that lie about on the surface of these floes.

382

THE LADY FKANKI.IN BAY EXPEDITIOy.

St-ptemlh-r 1 5. — 7.30 a. 111. Cooking is being done in here this morning ; four lamps. It is still blowing a
gale from the soutliwest. \Ve are now opposite the cape near Albert Head, where we left the launch, &c.,on
the lotli instant. We are evidently a good deal farther oft" from tliis land. It blew, with slight intcmissions,
all 'light. I see nothing to do but wait for the storm to go down. We have failed in making the < iid, and
the end and consetpience of that may be terrible, as we have only one boat. At the same time, > nay not
amount to iiiiiih. Clouds are now hurrying to the northwest, 'i'he sun shines through them fail,, ' . The
only land visible is the head of liuchanan Strait, Cape Albert and \'i»t()ri-,, anil th'' coast to lie n rth, but
the la.st faintly. Water clouds to the north and west only. Latitude at noon, 79 deg. 1.8 min. . le south
wind kept up during the day, blowing fitfully [frightfully]. 'J'hermometer ranged between : ; degree.^
[—3.9° C.| ami 30 de:.riees [— i-i" C J. We ilrifted a long ways to the NE. or aNK. TIk '.ireenland
shore came in sight. We are now this evening, according to compass bea'i'i-s Sabiio, S. 12 deg. W.;
Cocked Hat Mand, S. 46 VV. Dr. Pavy moved his sleei)iiig lag from die A/« to the sledge to-night. This
leaves in the Li re. jnt ireely, ni)- elf, lirain.i.il, Frederick, Henry, Schneider, Whisler, and the two

Ebi Mii^^, ele\ t.i v.. .\\\.

Siptiini r j'i, .-Mcii,; :;n observation 79 deg. 0.7 min. A beautiful day, calm with sun, the thermometer
high. Comj/ass J.'v':'.tiaj,b m 'kt our position due north of Littleton Island. IJrevoort Island clearly visible.
.\dvantage is taken of the wea'ii. Tdry out the sleeping-bags and clothes. Council called this morning again.
The doctor advised starting with us little delay as r,ossible to the SW. The rest pretty generally favor
doing nothing for the present until the direction of the drift, i\:c., are determined. Rice, widi Jans [Jensj,
was sent out to recomioiter. I went also liy myself to the south. Found two large floes extending in a gen-
erally eastern direction, which would afford (juite good sledge traveling, comjiaratively safe. The ration is
now somewhat cut down, and we eat corned beef entirely. We are now 30 miles from Cairn I'oint and 19
miles from Sabine. Lieutenant Greely informed me that his present intention is to take a course for the
(Ireenland coast at about Cairn Point. He anil I talked over it for some time. The siaiation is very crit-
ical and \vhether I ever live to write out these notes remains to be seen. Hotli coasis are |)' nly visible.
The inventory taken to-day of rations. A\'e have 4c' days of meat, bread, and [lotatoes, and near that
amount of tea. That is, on the basis of one pound meat. 1 1 ounces bread, and two ounces of potatoes. Jans
[JensJ and Frederik [ChristiansenJ each shot a seal about 9 p. 111. in a water pool about three-quarters of a
mile distant. Kach seal weighs about 150 pounds. Frederik [Christiansen] goes into his bed whistling on
an emuty cartridge shell, and the kyak was taken out.

Scptcmhir 17. — Bright, calm, and clear. Slight fog around the hori/on, but the Ellesmere shore very
distinct. Thought to be about 10 miles distant. Our drift has been southwest since yesterday. Greenland
shore very distant, and scarcely visible. Our late sledge tracks now point towards Cape Sabine, and the
floe seems still to have a fast, rotary motion. This, or we are drifting very fast. Preparations are being
made for starting after noon for the Ellesmere shore. Many things more have to be abandoned.- Weights,
as figured by Ilriinard, exclusive of things to be abandoned, 2,737 pounds. Counting our 40 days' ration,
at two pounds each, makes 6,700 pounds. Frederik [Ciiristiansen] shot another seal — smaller one. Latitude
at noon, 78 deg. 56 .uin. (Mean memorandum) [minimum] thermometer last night, 2.5° [—16.4° C.]. Rapid
rotary motion of the fice. Our old tracks now (i p. m.) point towards Lrevoort Island. Our drift since
morning has been towards Cocked Hat Island. We have drifted about two miles since morning. 1.05 p.
111., started with the sledge toward Cocked H.i't Island. 2.05 ji. ni., stojiped and went back for rest of load.
55 minutes occupied in returr.'iig, and one aid a quarter hours in second advance. Bear tracks seen in two
places. The old trail near last rami) n^oved 15 degrees in three hours, so Israel reports. After a second
advance we moved forward with the boat to a small pool of open water, and got the boat to the edge of
it. Left the boat and went back quarter of a mile for supiier. After supper advanced rest of the loads across
the doe to the edge of the new floe. Cot across with every diiiig about 10 p. m. Fine moonlight night.
Full moon. Other bear tracks seen to-day. Calm and dear. Biederbick, Henry, and some others com-
plaining. Must lia\e made upwards of three miles to-day. Encountered a great deal of very bad rubble-
ice. Looks very close, apparently not more than three or four miles distant. The floe we are now on par-
takes of the rotary motion, but it is not very fast.

Sfpti-mlhr 18. — 8 a. m., started. Stopped for supper on paleocrystic floe at 5.30 p. m. Day calm and
clear. Very tiresome — a succession of floes and open water. Hauled sledge for a few hundred yards, and
then took the boats. Reached a paleocrystic floe, and then had supper. Rice fell in the water. We have

THE LADY I'llANKIIJN JIAY EXl'KDITIOK

383

drifted far to the east, and now (supper time) the land to the south of Cape Sabine opens out very inu( h.
Started again at 7 a.m. fp. ni.], after a supper of seal meat, and hauled the loads across the paleoc rysti( lloe
about three-ijuarlers of a mile. Reached edge of open water at /■30 |p. m.J and again at 9 [>. ni., when we
fmini! w! had drifted farther from shore in the mean time. being too dark to proceed, we stoppetl fur the
night. Two or three walruses seen (juite near our last caiiip • st before starting to-day. liear tracks i>assed.
Our situation is very critical. Latitude at noon 79 [78J deg. o. min. Crossed five leads of open water to-ilay.

September 19. — We got within two miles of shore lasl 1 :ht, when unable to go farther. Waked up tliis
morning and found ourselves drifted away to the northwest [northeast]. We have not gone as far north as
we went before, and there is great danger of our being drifted, when the wind subsides, outside of Sabine and
down the channel. The floe we are on is entirely surrounded by water, except perha|)s on the soutii side.
The tipcf w.as not pitched last night, and to-day we lay on the ground [ice]. Our situation is more critical
than ever, and our chances of pulling through with our lives depends almost altogether un cham e. IJre.ik-
fast ♦' is morning consisted of pemmican and water. There was no cooking done. The sun has been shining
brightly all day, but the severe south wind blowing has kept every one in the sleeping-bag. Another council
held this evening. The general opinion was to remain in statu quo until the direction of the ilrift assures
itself

Siptcmbi-r 20. — Got \\\ 6 o'clock. Cramps in the legs prevented me from sleejiing. Morning was
very fine. Hoth shores vi.-. ic. ould make little or nothing of our position, except that we were a good

ways from land. It clou'ed ur 7.25 a. m., or rather became misty around the horizon, so we could see
nothing. About the sai. '''"ii.; ., .t wind si)rang up to the north. The (mean memorandum) |minimum|
thermometer is report' ' '* \ i'^;g [ — 1 1.7° C.j last night. Young ice formed all round the tloe. No land
can now be seen. Tn..-, a-''>'' jon Frederik [Christiansen] shot a large seal 8^i feet [2.5'"] long and weigh-
ing probably 600 pounds, it v,.is got out of the water by means of Jans' [Jens'J kyak. It reciuired seven
or eight men to haul - anmial in. No land has been visible since this morning except lirevoort Island,
and Cape Albert inu. ■I'icdy for a few minutes. Drank half a cupful of seal blood. It had very little
taste. Lieutenant Greely thought it tasted like raw eggs. Had a stew of seal liver blubber. Snowing all
night. Ate some fried blubber just before supper and found it very good. liearing obtained by Israel of
what he thought Brevoort Island in the afternoon was, 12 deg. S. of W. I assumed our latituile as [78"] 50'.

Si-plimbcr ix. — Wind and snow all night. Wind Irom the NW., as well as could be delerniined.
Supper cooked by stearine in tlie tipee. It raised the temperature considerably, but the smoke of the
stearine was extremely trying to the eyes, and when the lamps were blown out the fumes were intolerable.
It afiected Bender's lungs, and Lieutenant Greely sent him to the boat and had him replaced by Connell.
This morning there are a great many complaints of the sleeping-bags, which are very wet and unjileasanl.
The turtle-back of the steam-launch is far inferior to rubber blankets for this purpose. Our prospects look
gloomy enough to me. I think we are doomed to drift down the straits and out into liaflhi's Bay like the
Polaris.

1 2 noon. Still overcast and snowing. All land invisible. Cape Sabine show'ed itself indistinctly for a
few moments and bore about SW., but most of the time even the sun's position has been unknown. All inside
the ttpce is wet, damp, and uncomfortable. Schneider is working on boots — cutting off the tops and uppers
and sewing on canvas in the shape of a bag which is drawn tight by means of strings. They answer the i)ur-
j)ose arounil the camp very well. Unfortunately I have no boots. Rice, &:c., are building a snow house.
The party in the boat are decidedly the most comfortable. The thermometer ranges somewhere above 30
deg. [—1.1° C.]. Cross got his foot frost-bitten some days ago. To-day it is much worse and he can
hardly walk. The doctor dressed it. Jans [Jens] shot three seals this afternoon — small ones. Connell is
suffering with diarrhea, and has been transferred back to the boat. Corporal Salor takes his place here in
the teper. This evening the sky has cleared up somewhat and the snow stopped, and Kllesmere ',and and
Bache Island became visible. Cocked Hat Island bears 10 deg. S. of W., which, assuniin^' •.!:.; distance at
2o miles, makes our latitude [78"] 53 min., whicji is encouraging. The snow house built is secured with
uprights, the top of it a sail. It is yet too mild to plaster the holes with sludge. Jans [Jens] shot another
seal about nine o'clock in the evening, but he sunk before he could be gotten.

September 22. — Cot up to find the snow had ceased, and the sky comparatively clear. Cocked Hat
Island and the adjacent coast, also Bache Island, became more or less distinct. Israel made our position
by compass bearings [78°] 54 min. and directly north of Cairn Point. A little before 10 o'clock Bender spied
the whale-boat on the floe to the south of us, on the other side of a large space of open water, about three-

"Mi

884

Till-: LADY FI^ANKLiN HAY KXPKlilTlON.

quarters of a mile across. Rlcu with tliu party in our remaining; lioat (luiikly went after it, l)Ut they found
on crossing the watir tliat tlie whale l>()at was still aliout a half-mile off, and on ai count of the <lense masses
of sludge ice whii:h would not bear, it was impossihle to net at it. This was a great disa|)|)ointmeiit. On
their return it was |iractically settled that our boat would hold all, 25 of us. It briuj^s her <|uite low in the
water, but still in a smooth sea we could carry our whole party and some few days' provisions. Meridian
observation by Israel makes our latitude [7'S"| 52.6 min. Observation somewhat uncertain on account of the
low latitude of the sun. A few seals seen around this morning. They are now of daily oci:urrence. ( Ireen-
land coast invisible. Sleeping-bags in the t<pif very wet, some of them wringing wet. 'I'here was a pool of
water under that occujiieil by Cross and the two Ivskimo. Tif'fc changed t" a better place this morning.
The snow house is ([uite c(jmfortable. (Juite calm, but foggy arountl the horizon. Tlic latter can be seen
only in a few [)laces. 'J'he laundi could not be seen tnis morning — jirobably crushed, or <lrifted off from
moorings. It came on to blow and snow during the afternoon. \\'ind from the northern cjuadrant, though
there is some difference of opinion as to ilireclion. Thermometer 8° [ — 13.3° C.].

Siptcmbcr 23. — lireakfast about 7.30 a. m. Snowing hard and all land invisible. Air very thick.
'I'emperature has rim low. It must have gone down near to zero [ — I7.8°C.] last night. AVind and snow
all night. Wc are now on allowance of hard bread. Pretty much all the hard bread is in the shape of
powder. Each mess has its allowance <lealt out at night for supper and for breakfast. Those sufilering from
diarrhea had corned beef mixed with their seal meat for supper and for breakfast. Impossible to say where
we are now. A good deal of new ice is forme<l. The oil canvas we have under ttie sleeping bags keeps out
the wet and cf Id very imi)erfectly. I lay awake for several hours tills morning with cold feet. Thermom-
eter at 9 a.m. 17° [—8.3° C.J. (Mean memorandum) [mininum)] 8° [—13.3° C".]. |Barometer] 30.02
1762.49""]. Israel comes in anil rejiorts the result of compass bearings from Kllesmere Land and Hache
Island, which have loomed up indistinctly. ^Ve arc about three and a half miles cast of the meridian of
Sabine, and about ten miles distant from it. The wind during the night, Israel thinks, must have been from
the nortlieast. The whale-l)oat is reported in sight again. F.verything is wet and cold and monotonous.
Those troubled with diarrhea have recovered, or nearly so, but Cross's foot is worse.

.SV/A'w/vr 24. — Coflee and seal meat with five ounces of liread and toast for breakfast. Light wind
from the north all night, and still from that (piarter, though Lieutenant (ireely thinks it blew from the south-
west for some time during tlie night. It has cleared off somewhat this morning. ^Ve are getting near
Sabinc-as well as Cocked Hat Island. They were reckoned some time ago as from 6 to 8 miles distant.
The whale-boat can still be seen this morning about two miles in the direction of Alexandra Harbor. A
wide pool of recent open water, but now very young ice, extends in a general north and south direction to
the vest of our present floe, and only a few yards distant. Rice thinks it inadvisable to attempt doing
anything, and Hrainard otfers little or no encouragement of being able to make any distance to the west on
account of sludge ice, oiien water, &c. A little before noon a council was held, and it was thought advisable
to reconnoiter the situation to the westward; this was advised to be done by means of the kyak. It was
decided, however, to send the boats acro.ss the water pool to the west of us. I went with Sergeant Urainard
and seven men. We jiroceeded over a floe of last year's ice towards the west, and toward the whale-boat,
whose mast was distinctly visible. I sent Jewell with Ellis off to the southwest. After traveling a mile I
came across a crack and some open water and left Bender to give the alarm in case the crack widened so
as to injure our return. Bender signaled to us after we had proceeded two or three hundred yards [about
180 or 270"']. AVe returned immediately after having reached the whale-boat, the commotion of the ice
making advance very dangerous. Saw a considerable mass of rubble- ice off between us and the whale-
boat. This Brainard thought impassable. Had to cut through considerable young ice in crossing the lead
near by. AVe must have drifted to-day, .according to bearings by Israel, a mile to the south and about a
mile to the east. AVe were in latitude [78 deg.] 50 min. and about a mile east of the meridian of Brevoort
Island about three o'clock. The whale-boat is about two miles distant. Wind from the northwest now
and for most of the day. The tea ration has been still further reduced. The temperature is low but still
above zero [—17.8° C.j.

September 25. — Noon, our position by bearings [78°] 45.8 min., 1.4 miles east of the meridian of Brevoort
Island. It has been blowing all day from the northeast very strong. Breakfast this morning at 6 o'clock.
About I o'clock the floe we are now on split in two and left us on a small piece, the west end, a few acres
in extcnc. A great commotion in the ice [)receded this. This masses [mass] of rubble many feet high being
pressed up on the edges of the floe and those ailjoining. Our drift is somewhat to the south. What

TIIK LADY FUANKIilN HAY KXPKUITION.

385

appears like land-locked ice lias appeared in tlie direction of Cajie Sal)ine, but not very far <iistant. The
situation of atlairs is very j;looiny, and our i)ros|)ects will l)e either very much worse or much better in the
next twenty-four hours. (lod only knows what is awaiting us. The wind continues blowing violently and
shaking down showers of snow here in the tciit. Temperature about 12'^ [ — ii.i°(".|. 5.30 p. m., position
•ibout half a mile more to tlie east since suppei, wliicli we ha<l at 3 o'( Iik k. We are now, according to
Israel's bearings, three miles north of Brevoort Island and two miles east of it. We are very close to a
large floe north of Sabine, which appears to extend all the way to shore. We are separated from it by great
masses of sludge anil rubble-ice pressed tojjether by enormous pressure in the greatest confusion. Fred-
erik [Christiansen] crossed this to the floe referred to awhile ago. It is only about two or three hundred
yards [about 180 or ayo'"] across. The wind has changed aroimd to the northwest, just the wrong direction.
It has not blown so hard however as before, but the sky is thick and the night looks stormy. Kverything
appears against us. Our little floe is now surrounded by a fringe of rubble and hummocks pressed up on
its outer edge. The commotion in the ice has recommenced in the last few minutes. God knows where
tomorrow morning will find us. Our jjrospects are gloomy enough. Our fresh water is near by, fortu-
nately, and was not on that part of the floe which was detached. Seal meat, weak tea without sugar or
irilk, and a little hard bread constitutes our meals. Cross has found another fof)t frost-bitten, and the doctor
dressed it this evening.

Septi-inher 26. — Not many of us slept last night. The northwest wind continued all night and drove
us around Cape Sabine. Considerable o])en water made its appearance to the north. Itreakfast between
5 and 6 o'clock. After breakfast there was some discussion as to the feasibility of reaching shore. Open
water apparently extended all the way, but to get to it we had to pass through nearly a mile of sludge ice
and it was judged im|)ossible to do it. .\bout noon our little floe again cracked, and the rubble began i)iling
up on the edges very near the tent. At the same time or shortly afterwards we found ourselves near
a large paleocrystic floe to the north, but it was judged best to cross over to it. This we accordingly did,
meeting a severe northwest gale with snow. It was a severe journey, but the two tloes held together and it
was made all right. We are now on a large paleocrystic floe, and continuous ice api)arenily extends to the
shore. No fresh water has yet been discovered on this floe. Cross was barely able to walk ; could do no
work at all, both feet being frost-bitten. The northwest gale at this hour (about 4.30 p. m.) still continues.
We are apparently immovable just now, are jjrobably packed and jammed in ice somewhat, (lod knows
what the end of all this will be. I see nothing but starvation and death. The spirits of the party, however,
are remarkably good. Rum this evening. Our little floe has had another crack just before starting. It
was very wise that we got off it when we did. The gale has continue<l during the day. Thermometer 15
degrees [about —9.0° C.J or thereabouts.

September 27. — 5 p. m. Blowing and snowing still furiously. The gale has continued. We seem to
be some half dozen miles above Cape Isabella. Breakfast this -norning consisted of hard bread and without
anything to drink. An attempt is being made to-night to cook. Kverything is covered with snow, and we
are miserable.

Seplemkr 28. — 7 a. m. Gale still continues, though moderated a good deal. We are reported about
a mile from shore, above Cape Isabella, wedged in a bay or indentation up the coast. We seemed to have
moved little or none since day before yesterday. There is a prospect of getting ashore by crossing a lead
of open water. Our old floe was visited by Schneider this morning and is all broken up. Rice's party have
had an extremely trying time during the gale. Those in this boat fared the best. In the tepee the bags are all
wet and covered with snow. The canvas shakes incessantly, and everything is miserable Rice and (larty
took breakfast in the tepee. 9.25 a. m. started toward shore for a small island, or what looked like an island;
brought everything up to a lead of open water about a cpiarter of a mile from camp. This lead is about
half a mile wide. Got everylhing across the lead in four loads by boat. Wind blowing heavily and a con-
siderable sea. Got everything across by 12 o'clock. Found ourselves on a large paleocrystic floe upwards
of a mile across. Started across this with boats, &c., to its farther end. Made up a load from here of pro-
visions, sleeping-bags, &c., and reached a large berg, perhaps grounded near land, in 70 minutes. Returned
in 45 minutes and brought on next load in 65 minutes, reaching cami) at 6.05 p. m. The party with small
sledge are still out, bringing on some things. The boat is still on the near side of the large paleocrystic floe.
Fighting walrus seen on the ice near present camp. Bear tracks near by. We are on the north side of Baird
Inlet, and probably half a mile from land. Some new ice Um weak to bear, prevents us from going out to-night.
The northwest wind still continues, but is quite moderated now. Sky clear. No snow. Cross was able to
walk, but that was all.

H. Mi8. 393 25

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386

THK LADY FKANKLLN I5AY KXI'KIHTION.

Srptfmhfr iry. — Made the land. Startcl at 7.40 a. m., and went back one and a half miles after the boat.
This morning the small slcdgi- went on townnls laml. Kctiirned to (amp with the boa! in the course of two
hours, and then continued tm towards land. I made two visits by boat o\ er leads. Found a great many
small bergs, probably from the nipping ghu iei. Made l.mcl at 5.»o p. m. at a ro< ky promontory, whic h
they thought at first was an island. Several walrus seen to-day, Men com|)lain of being \ery tired. Last
half-mile sledging over some good ii e, but after that we encountered a great deal of rubble. Wind from the
north until this evening. This evening from the s.ime direi tion, but it has moderated, with very slight
breeze. Jt blew last night strong from the north. The two I'.skimo ha\e been enileavoring to shoot seal
or walrus during the day, but without su( cess. .Slejil and rooked among the rucks. All very thankful to be
on land once more. No icefoot along here.

St/iltitil<ir T,o. — Wiml changed to the south or southwest and blows lightly. We are said to be about
13 miles in a straight line below Cape Sabine. We are on a rock formed like a promontory between two
glaciers. Position not exactly known yet. Went on top the i)romontory this morning. Saw ohl bear
tracks and old Kskimo meat cache. Leave in the morning with nine men for Cape Sabine. Sky over
cast and everything dreary. We ( amped on the rocks last night. Cor])oral Salor returned with Frederik
[Christiansen] just before supper lime, and reported that he got about half a mile from the cape, from thence
passing over here from the north (which is probably the south cape of Rosse Hay), and there he got on
moving ice and encountered open water, and was unable to proceed farther. Saw open water also in the
direction of shore, and does not think a sleilge could go to Sabine as things jfreat jjresent. This broke up
the arrangpment contemplated of my going to-morrow. Rice suggested that he an<l Jans |Jens| could
probably make the trij) without taking any sledge, the two using Lieutenant Kislingbury's sleeping-bag.
They took no lamp, but some rum and water mi.xed, also a little |)enimican and bread — ("our days' rations
in all. This is accordingly the present arrangement. Ri( e and Jans | Jens| are tn start in the morning. No
suitable place for a winter resident e has yet been found, The rations we have on hand will last probably
25 days longer. Nothing shot today, and nothing seen but a few seals. Cross saw two snow-buntings. Oui
situation is forlorn.

Monday, Octoher 1. — Rice and Jans [JcnsJ and two men to accom])any them a short distance left at
8.45 a. m. Kxpect to be l)ai:k in six marches. Lieutenant Rislingbury returned late last night, He went
over the glacier the next to the east, and fouiul th.it it would be necessary to travel over land to reach Cape
Sabine, on .iccount of open water near shore and no ice-foot. Wind changed to the south this morning, and
the ice in the straits is moving south again — a good deal of open water near shore. Cardiner sutfering a
good deal with the felon on one of his fingers. Long saw a great many walrus to-ilay in the water in front
of our camp. He shot one, but the animal sank. Had no kyak at hand. 1 went to the farther side of
the south |)romontory to examine ground for huts. The doctor, Kislingbury, Hrainard, an<l I decided that
this side of the glacier is the best place. All the men were consulted to-day as to the reduction of rations.
We have about 35 days here, and count on 10 or 12 at Sabine. Most all the men thought the rations should
be made to last (these 356 [rations]) for 45 or 50 days. A fox came in close to camp to-day and was shot
at and wounded. We still get fresh water from a small paleocrystic floe.

Oilober 2. — Two foxes came around early this morning, but were not gotten. In the evening Brainard
and I found a route to the place selected for the huts. It is about a mile to the north, nearly to the ghu ier.
Moved most of the things over in two loads, leaving most of the things packed to be brought up another
time. Got in with the last load at 3 o'clock. A desolate, forlorn place of rocks and stone. We.ather over
cast but calm. The weather continues very mild, probably between 2o'[— 6.7°C] and 30" [— i.i'^ C.J
The ice is very wet and sludgy. Rations cut down this morning to 10 pounds [six and one half ounces to a
man] of bread a day for the whole party. Two and a (juarter pound of potatoes and twelve ounces of meat.
This is still farther reduced after we get in the huts.

<9("AV'cr 3. — Commenced buildinghuts, and found a great many Eskimo meat caches. The place selected
is near the shore, a half mile north of the north promontory. Three huts decided on. The boat is to form
the roof of one of the huts. Fach hut is to be built of stone with a wall of ice around it. Several old
walrus and a whale bone found. We have been out every day. The hunters designated are the two
Eskimos, Long, and Kislingbury. Day overcast with light snow. Light breeze from the north. Great deal
of open water.

Octolu-r 4. — Colder and tolerably clear. Ration increased by advice of the doctor, commencing this
evening, to fourteen ounces of jjemmican, eight of hard bread, and one and a half of potatoes. Hunters
brought in nothing to-day. Long met a great many walrus out in the straits in the open water. We have

THK LADY I-KANKFilN BAY KXl'KIHTION.

387

been at work on the houses all ilay. llrDu^'hi a ln.iil Irmnthe cache left at last cam|>. Tht'rmi)n\ctcr about
lo degrees [— i2.2°C.], The houses have an outer wall of ice, and an inner wall of rot k, and wrap roof
with canvas. f)ur tea is now extremely weak. This is a niinerahle existenc e, only ])referal)le to death. CJet
little sleeji at night on account of hard slee[)inn ha^ and the cold.

Oitohi'i- 5. — Occupied huilding huts from y until .', wiien leaving two men continuing the work on each
hut, the rest of us went to the old lauip ami hrougiil hack the last remaining load of provisions, iVc. Cross
shot four ptarmigan this afternoon. The birds alighted near by. Weather dull and overcast, chilly and
dreary. There is a great deal of open water in the straits. We now ha\e three chances for our lives: The
chance of finding American cache sufficient at .Sabine or at Isabella, 'i'he chance of crossing the straits when
our present rations are gone. The chance of being able to shoot sutVuient seal and walrus near by here to
last us during the winter. Our situation is 1 . . lainly alarming in the extreme. Lieutenant (ireely is sleep Jig
out with Jewell and some one else in the three man bag, Gardiner occupying his bag in the lef^fe here. We
find it very severe work building these huts. We are all weak, and the rocks are of granite and very heavy,
and noteasily obtainable. The ice walls of the " whale-boat house " (the one I belong to) are finisheil, and
the stone walls were also almost completed to-day.

October 6. — Moved into the hut to-day : Rice, Jewell, Gardiner, Elison, Ellis, Lieutenant Greely, and
myself. Rice has not yet returned. Weather overcast and foggy, as it has been jiretty nnich every day
since we got here. There are three huts. IJrainard's party have the boat as a part of their roof; also the
cover of the steam-launch. The other hut and ours have canvas on the roof. A seal shot to-day by Fred-
erik [Christiansen], weighing about 150 pounds. Entrails and everything are to be saveil. We are to keep
a blubber lamp burning in the huts all the time, exce|)t when cooking or sleeping. The fumes from the
stearine are intolerable — very trying on the eyes and throat alike. Anothc. eal was shot, but could not be
got before he sank. Several walrus out in tliv open water of the straits.

October 7. — (.Mear, but no sunshine. All working on huts all day. Sergeant "onnell reduc I to the
ranks, to date from September 29, for intemperate language. Lieutenant Greely infoi ns me he shall prefer
charges against him, if we return to America, for mutiny; also against Dr. I'avy and Lieutenant Kislingbury
on the same charges. The " Phalarope" \liciUim(mt\,\o which they all belong, is a place by no means
pleasant. A great deal of criticism has been indulged in by those named which -is extremely prejudicial.
Long and Frederik [Christiansen] shot a walrus to-day, but the animal has just life enough left to crawl into,
the water after being shot. The issue of tea was stopjjcd last night. We had coffee for breakfast, however,
and to-night we are to have the grounds boiled over again. Rice and Jans [Jens] are expec ted back to day
but have not yet arrived at this hour, 2,)''2 P- ni. Ellis and Whisler have been sent out a few miles to look
for them. F'rederik [Christiansen] shot a ptarmigan this morning.

October 8. — .\ dismal day, generally overcast and cold. We have been working on the hut all day.
Got the moss on the roof and also several bagsful under the sleeping-bags. We had Hudson Bay pemmican
for breakfast, and liked it very much. Rice not yet returneil. Lieutenant Greely intended to send me for
him to-morrow with a sledge and party, but it seems a sledge cannot get over the glacier, so nothing is to be
done at present. Frederik [Christiansen] shot two .seals to-day, but they both sank before the kyak could
be got to them. Fox came in camp last night and stole three-quarters of a pound of bread.

Octohi-r 9. — My birthday — occupied in gathering moss chiefly. Rice returned with glorious news of
rations and help. Protein wreck — Rice brings a register of 1883, by which it seems I am promoted to be
first lieutenant. Rice discovered a strait connecting Ro.sse Hay with Cocked Hat Island; visited Sabine
and Cocked Hat Island. Rations reduced to-day to 12 ounces meat, 6 ounces hard bread, i)/^ ounces
potatoes, with weak tea or coffee once a day. It has been decided, however, to move up the coast, so now
the ration will be increased some again. We all feel now in excellent spirits by the news Rice brought in.
The prospect since landing here has looked forlorn indeed, and death by starvation the most probable end
to our existence. Now all seems cha^iged. Oi^r huts are almost completed. This one has the moss on
the roof, and is now tolerably comfori.i!)lc. Lin'.i. has bv.°n made a sergeant, beginning to-day, to date from
the lirst instant. Rice got a fo.- Rice discovered time caches — the English cache of 240 rations, the
cache left by the Neptune in 188;', '.nd the cajhe brc.igli. off the wreck of the P)-oteiis in 1883.

October 10. — Intended to fct;iit this morning, hv< \\ ; snowing hard. In the afternoon it cleared off, but
it was decided too late to start. I>.iy overcast, d.iuvi., >aid cold. In the huts we a e troubled with cold,
darkness, and the dense volumes of smoke from the stearine. Considerable complaining at times. We are

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388

TllK LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

all now in comparatively high spirits, and look forward to getting back to the United States with a great
deal of certainty. We sliall have to live on half rations or less until April, and conteniiilate shortness of
fuel. Many hanlships are obvious, but we all feel sound again.

Oiio'rr II. — (Mean memorandum) fniiniinum| last night —7° [—2i.-]°C]. At 6.30 p. m., —4"
[ — 20.0° C.J; 6.45, started with sledge and load of things which will not be needed for some days. Lieutenant
Kislingbury, myself, Sergeant Hrainard, Jans [Jens], 14 of us in all. Lieutenant Cirecly went along for a mile
or two. Rice left abrut the s.i..ie time with Frederik, l'!skimo, for Cape Isabella to see if there is any
American depot there. We hauled load to the east side of Rosse Bay, reaching a projecting point of rocks
at 11.30. After a quarter of an hour delay in making the cache we started back and reached huts at 2.50
p. m. It proved clear but cold. Cold wind blowing from the northeast, but not experienced until we
passed the Norton [Newton] glacier. This is the first real clear day we have had. Traveling to-day very
good. Cross has taken aib-antage of our absence to get into the rum, and is rejiorted as more or less under
the influence. Seal shot to-day about the same size as the last, 150 pounds uncleaned. 'l\vo foxes came
around this morning and they were shot at, but v.idiout success. This makes the third or fourth.

Octobfr I ». — 7 a. m. (mean memorandum) [minimum] last night, —12.5 [ — 24.7° C.]. At |)reseiit, —8.5
[ — 22.5°C.]. Clear, caim, and cold. 8.15 a. in., started for Rosse Hay. Small sledge started about an
hour before us. Lead very heavy, though the route got smooth generally. 2.,?5 p. m., reached cache left
yesterday and went into camp. Overcast and threatening snow. Ration increased to i pound meat, 10
ounces bread, i^ ounces potatoes. The doctor recommends full English sledge rations. Distance trav-
eled about 6 miles. Water found near this camp.

October 13. — Crossed Ro"- .^ Bay and came out south along Rice Strait, distant about 5 miles. Brought
two loads. Advance first load 3 hours — returned in 2 hours and brought seconil load in the same time as
the first. Day overcast, snowing lightly. Got into cam]) .at 5.20 ]). m. Antici|)ate having to make two
days ciossing this bay. Sleep to-night on the rocks. Light wind blowing. Dark, foggy, cold, and chilly —
miserable.

October 14.— 5 a. m., cooks called. 7.50 a. m., break camp to march to the north end of Rice Strait,
distant about 5 miles. Cold stew fur breakfast. Reached the camp with second load at 3.45 p. in.
First advance, 2 hours 25 minutes; return, 2 hours. Second advance, 2 hours and 40 minutes. Second
advance had to pull sledge and load over the ice-foot on account of open water in the straits reaching to
the west shore. Day foggy and overcast, with light wind from the north at times and snow most of the
day. Weather dark, dreary, and miserable. Jans [Jens] shot at seals in o[)en water, but ili<l not get any.
Water found near present camp. We are to make a cache here to-morrow and advance with one load to
the place of our winter quarters. Cocketl Hat Island is about one am' a half miles to the east of us.
Slept little last night or the night before on accoun* of the cold. The alcohol allowance is 4 ounces, but it
won't C{A)k the stew e.vcept when we find water, and then with difficulty.

October 15. — 4.70 a. m. cooks called. 7 a. m., Lieutenant tlreely left with (iardiner and Jans [jens| to
visit the caches; 7.25 a. m., the rest of us started witli the sledge. Traveling pretty good for soiiu; time,
but gradually we got into rubl)le-ice. At 9.30, when riL>out two miles east of Cocked Hat Island, the sledge
broke down, the runner si)litting. 1 1.45, got started again. In about one and one-half hours met Lieutenant
Oreely on return. Reached place of wreck cache left by Proteus at 2.11; p. m. Not so many rations found
as anticipated. Hard to say how we will be able to pull through this winter. Rice and Frederik, Fskiino,
returned shortly after we got into camp. Our winter (|uariers decided on at this [ilace. Day cold, but clear.
The sun now rises very late and sets very early, and never gets lar ajjove the hori/.on. We left behind ai
last camp about 1,200 pounds of stuff to be brouglit up after awhile. Snowing lightly this evening. Every-
thing dark and dreary.

Octol'er 16. — Went back with .Jeven men t(j the cache lel'l last night. Tlie return occupied two
hours and fifty minutes, I presume. Returning left camp at 8.10 a. m. and reached cam]) again at 1.20
]). m. ; moving ice, many cra-ks along shore. Some of the ])arly went down in the cache below us; tem-
porary shelter ])Ut here. Northeast wind and driving snow-storm during the day, making travel very
disagreeable. Teini)orary shelter made with snow blocks covered with canvas.

Octo/irr x"]. — Cooks called about 5 o'clock; breakfast of cinned mutton and coffee; last night we
had clio(()late. These drinks are jireiKiied with milk and sugar, and are much liked. The rum is also much
liked, being Bedford [Medfoid] — different IVoin th.it we had at lH)rl Conger. After breakfast most of tin;

TIIK LADY FRANKLIN I5AV KXI'KDITlON.

38y

liii

two

1.20

tulil-
vcry

l)arty wont iVtwn to the ciicIk' alxjiu ;i mile below here. The wliale-hoiU was hauled over land alioiit 500
yards [about 450'"!, and thence to this place on the sle<lt,'e. Afterwards some fourteen of us brought up the
■est of the cache, arriving liere at 2.30 p. ni. I'ay overcast and logf^y, with snow and north wind — ('old and
disa 'leeable in the extreme. Several of the party have frost bites on the Angers, vVe. Long was complaining
this mo; ning of suffering i)ain in the > Iiest. We fnid water in a lake near by here. Water has been found
at a inunber o',' camps between here and l\skim<) I'oint. We are now in a tem()orary hut. The whale lent
is pitched near by, and is used for the kvaks, anil also by one three-man slee|iing-bag. A crow or a raven
has been seei around for several days, following us from camp to cami). 'I'he men left beh.ind to-ilay started
the foundation of (un' pirmanent ipiartcrs. It is about two miles from here.

Oiliiber iS. — Day ovti ast aiK' fogg\' ; cold wind blowing and snowing; very disagreeable and trying.
We ha\e be 'u working on winter (piarters all <lay. (lot u]) the walls of the building. We are all to live
in one building. I'Vederik |t'hristiansen| slu . a blue fox tb.is morning. I'he ice along the coast is thrown
up in the most inextricuible fashion. We have rum issued every day after work. Several of the men have
frostbitten lingers. Tem|)erature this morning 1 degree [ — i 7.2" f. |. (,\[ean memoranilum) |minimumj
- 6 degrees [—21.1" ( '. |.

(h/(i/>i-r I (J. — 'I'he whale-boat was mf)ved up and |)ut on the walls of the house this morning, after
which the snow wall was built around the walls of stone. The spaces between these two walls are fdled in with
snow and gra\el. Cold northwest wind blowing; vcr)- disagreeable. All complain of being chilled through.
We ;ire unaMe to stand the cold by reason of sliort rations. luiglish sledge-nnmer broke to-day, or rather
the shoe. Long and the two Ivskimo went hunting, but got nothing. This life is miserable in the
extreme. We work from about 9 till 2.30. It grows dark now very soon. 'I'he sun has not been seen
since we came here. l''ound carrying heavy box of gravel 200 yards [about 180'"] to the wall of the house,
in the face of the wind, very severe. Sleep at night much broken by cold feet and general discomfort,

Oitoher 20. — Moved into winter tpiarters at rivUiis cache. Day miserably stormy, with drifting
wind and snow from the northwest. \\'e started between 8 and 9 o'clock. The cooks were called about
5 o'clock. Started to haul s;ind, but gave it up on accou..,. of the storm, b'ind hut (piite warm, compara-
tively speaking. The boat is in a place along the center of the hut. Hut 18 by 24 feet [5.5 by 7.3'" |, built
of snow und rock, with a snow wall outside. Lamps started for sujjper at 2 o'clock. Fresh water from the
hike near by.

October 21. — Thermometer below zero [— 17.8° C! this morning. At 8 o'clock started with thirteen,
Rice, Mraniard, iVc, an<l went to Rice Strait for the load left behind there. Found the ice along the coast
entirely changed and very rough. Had a hard time making our way through it. Found ice in sight of
Cockerl Kat Island much the same. Reached cache at 12 o'clock. We took up on the F.nglish sledge,
whale-tent and four days' rations for Long and the two I'",skimo who go up there hunting. The hunters
started about the same time as we, but reached cache about an hour before us. Pitched the whale-tent for
hunters, and started back at 12.20, and haub:l load homeward I'or three hours, when at 3,20 we dropped
the sledge and made for the hut without it, reaching hut at 4,25, all much tired. Rum tf)-night as usual
during the working days. To-night the messes have been reduced from three to two, and the cooking done
on three ounces of alcohol. The rations are now i pound of corned beef, 8 ounces hard bread, and i|^

ounces potatoes. The meat is now merely [uiuleciph"iable word] or hard bread left out of a

stew, and we have a slight addition to the coflee, or whatever it is. To-night we have coffee. We are now
in oiT hut; but it is not yet finished, and is cold and uncomfortable. Our constant talk is about something
to eat, and the different <lishes we have enjoyed or hojie to enjoy on getting back to civilization. Ilowot'ten
my thoughts turn towards home and the dear ones there. We all suppose Cjarlington and party are at
Littleton Island, but yet doubts will arise as to it. We have found out some s'-raps of news from slips of
ncws|iapers wrapped around the lemons. Ivich man had a lemon to-night. We are all hungry all the time.
Hlubber lamp burning to-night for the first time. Lieutenant dreely, Israel, Hieilerbick, Whisler, Mender, and
(lardiner arc on the invalid list to-day with sore feet, cramps, &c. — minor ailments. It was snowing hard
and very thick by the afternoon. Hy 3 p. in. it was very gloomy.

Octol'ii- 12, — 7 a. m.. Rice, with l'',llis, Whisler, and Linn, went down to the ( lothing (-ache near Cape
Sabine, to bring up as much clothing, \'c., as they could carry on their backs. 8 a. m., I started with thir-
teen others to bring ii|i the sledge lo.id left behind vesterda)-. Walked back in an !iour and got in at 11.30.
The only ones left in the cami) were Lieutenant Creely, Cardiner, and liiederbick. After icurning we hauled

■£1

390

THE LADY IMIANKLIN BAY EXPEDITFOX.

'] r

f. \i\

i I

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sand for the huts, and the sikiw wall was completed. Knocked oft' work at 2.15. This evening being Ellis'
birthday, we are to have somethiii},' extra (or siijiper. ISiederbick is making a punch of rum, lemons, and
cloudberries, which is to be wanned u[) by expens^^ of two ounces of alcohol. Day overcast and thic'k with
light snow at times. It is yet so cold in the hut that it is dilhcult to keep one's fingers warm. Everything
is uncomfortable and miserable, (lardiner's finger has taken a turn for the worse. Bender is complaining,
but the others are all pretty well. Rice and i)arty returned at 4.25 j). m., having left the clothing cache at
2.15. They brought considerable clothing. Kound newspaper article by Clay. Rice brought back — found
with the lantern near the cache— a newspaper slip by .Mr. Clay, written May 13, 1883, from which we infer
the loss of the Jeannette and tiie alarming view which must be taken at home of our situati(jn. We all
think that our friends regard us as lost. Rice read the pa[)er aloud this evening, and it has excited a great
deal of remark. We all think Clay's pa|ier is almost prophetic, except, of course, our "lying down under
the (piiet stars to die." The article gives me pain in reflec'tion of the great alarm and sorrow felt by my dear
father and mother and sisters on my behalf Should my a.nbitious hopes be disai)pointed, and these lines
only meet the eyes of those so dear, may they not add to ny many faults and failings that of ingratitude or
want of aftection in not more frecjuent allusions to them and my thoughts surrounding [concerning] them.

Oilohi-r 23. — Cooks called at 4 a. m. At 7.10 a. m., started with Rice and others, some twelve of us in
all, and went to the cache at Cape Sabine. Ice very good for the first two miles, but after that extremely
rough — great areas of rubble, the roughest or as rough as I ever saw. Constant labor with the axe
required. Morning very dark and tlreary, with cold northwest wind blowing. Reached Sabine in three and
a half hours, and continued on to English cache at south side of Payer Harbor, reaching there at 11.50.
Left there the records of the expedition, and a pendulum in a cairn which 1 constnuted. I'ut the English
cache on sledge and started on return, after delay of one hour and ten minutes. Blustering ami cold north-
west wind with driving snow. Extremely uncomfortable. Left sledge and load at C'ape Sabine at 2.15 p.
m. and continued on, carrying nothing to our winter (juariers. The most of the men reached here in two
hours from Sabine, but Islison and I dropped behind to look after the doctor, who hurt h.is foot. Night
came rapidly on and we lost the way. Stumbled and llouiulered among the rubhle-ite, and reached the
hut at 5.15 p. m. extremely tired and hungry. Mutton stew and tea for supper, and hard bread — in all
about one-fourth as nuich as would satisfy the a|)i)etite. Rice read some newspaper scraps in the evening.
Fine stew of dog jiemmican this morning. To-morrow we go back for the load. Much open water seen in
lialf niiie or more water from shore. In Payer Jlarbor saw open water and one or two seals.

Oct 't-r 24. — 4 p. m. |a.m.J, cooks called, 7.30 a. m., sledge ])arty with myself left for cache at Cape
Sabine. Had a very hard tramp along the roc ks and along shore. I''oimd that I had hurt my foot yesterday,
and got along with difficulty. Weather \ery much the same as yesterday. Wiiul from the northwest, with
driving snow. Dark and dreary. Reached cache and allowed the men to eat the moldy bread out of one
of the bags. We ate ravenously. 1 1.40, started back with load consisting of two of the barrels of the Eng-
lish cache, cvc. Fifty mimites in crossing from the ice-tbot to the shore, a distance of about 50 yards [about
45"']. Farther on, the old part of the sledge, whic h had been rei)airecl, came out of place. A\'e started on
^fter lashing it. It came '-a dark and clreary,and everything was \ cry obscure. Reai hed huts at 5'j p.m.
Wind increased to-night. Suffering all day a great cleal with my knee. Could harcll\ walk. To-morrow
it will be necessary to stay in cami) ^" re[)air sledge. (Ireat discussion to-night on the subject of liking of
food, especially jiemmican.

October ^^. — X >z\)' little wind to-day though overcast and snowing lightly, as usual. There are three loads
remaining' clown in Sabine, but the sledge reiiiaiiKil in c amp to-day to be mended. I have remained in bng
all day on account of lame knee. l!lo( ks of snow were laid 011 the niofaiid in ike a jierceptible difference in
the temiierature, though it is still colj' and iinciomfortable inside here. We burn blubber lamp, but it gi\cs but
little light and no heat. The discomforts of t'lis life are iimiiiiierable, .lud would be very hard to picture.
Long returned this evening with the two I'.skimcj. Hiederbick shot one seal — about 75 poiiiuiN of meat
dressed — total weight of seal about 150 pounds. Dog biscuit examined today; found mostly molciv , a
great disappomtinent to us. Long f mnd very fair weather and saw half a dozen seals in all. Rum issuecl
to-night, as every night since October 15.

Octdlu-r iG. — 4 a. m., cooks called. 7 a, in., 1!. |l!arometer| 29.82 [757-4i"""]. Thermometer below zero
[ — 17.8° C.j during the night. 7 a. m., party started out lor Icjad. I remained in the hut with a lame knee.
The party reached cache at 9.30 and started back at 10.30. 1.30 p. m., party suoted [got?] back. They had
crossed the ic:e-foot and reached within about two mile> of camp when the sledge broke clown. The runner

s ■$«»■■ n'l

THE LADY KKANKIilN HAY EXPEDITION.

391

gave way (that is, the steel shoe). Klison thinks it can be repaired to-morrow. Day overcast, with little or
no sun. Long and the Kskinio went out, but liave not yet returned, Teni|)erature in the hut this morning
after lighting lights rose to 31.8" [ — 0.1° C. |. During the day it wa , iy° ( — 7.2°C.l at one time. Lieutenant
(Ireely thinks of making the rations last until March i, and then crossing the straits with 10 ounces of bread,
10 ounces of pemmican and tea. In the meanlune after the sledge parties return, which will be about the
end of the present month, t'le rations will be between 6 and 7 ounces bread, 4 ounces of meat, or a little
over, and some vegetables; between 1,3 ami 14 ounces in all. It remains to be seen whether we can exist
on so little. Tliere is a scarcity of everything, fuel as mucii as anything else. We hail to-night a very
animated, not to say warm, discussion on the subject of rations. Lieutenant dreely announced his intention
to try and make the rations last until Marcli 1. 'i'his is l)ased on the su[)position that the 13 ounces
referred to will support us in (-onsiderable and tolerable health. 4^3 ounces of nieat, between 6 and 7 of
bread, and tne vegetables we have, and other things distributeil. The butter and lard are not included
among tiie meats. {.*-'ee inventory of October 25 at end of book.) The doctor urged that a great objec-
tion to the reductions of ration was that our strength might be reduced and disease, scurvy, i^rc, brought on,
and when too late we would find it impossible to recover. I remarked that the general view taken by the
parly, as far as I could get at it, was tlial our rations should bo reduced to the very lowest limit, but afterwards
increased enough, if necessary, rather than the contrary. So it seems to be fixed upon that we are to try to
make out on our food until March 1. 'i'hen we shall try to cross tlie straits on 10 ounces ])emmican, 10 of
bread and tea included. A great deal was said on the subject generally, confineil at first to Lieutenant
Clreely, the doctor, an<l myself, but afterwards Rice, Jewell, Mrainaril, and others joined in to break the gloom
and throw a more cheerful light on the subject. Rice read newsjiaper scraps in tlie evening from the
"Critic," &c. liy tliis we liave gleaned a good many items of news. We are all in remarkable sjjirits con-
sidering our circumstances. Rice i)rouglU l)ack the Army register, and to-day the sledge party came across
a book all frozen up and snow-covered, which seems to be the new Army Regulations. Long and the
Kskimo saw several seals to-day but got none.

Oitoher 27. — Cooks called 5 a. m. 6.40 a. m., thermometer 33" [ + 0.6" C.] in the hut; U. [Harometer],
30.05 1763.20"""!. 'I'lie men worked on tlie snow wall aroun<l the house for some hours — the outer wall
about four feet 1 1.2"'| tVom the inner. The intervening space 1> to be filled with snow. Corporal [Sergeant)
Llison and Schneider went down and fixed tlie sledge. The sledge party started out about 10 o'clock. I
started some time after them. We returned with the sledge and lead al)out 12.30. .\te ravenously of mokly
dog-biscuit this morning; suriirised myself by the manner in wliicli I ate that which would be at any other
time almost repulsive. 58 pounds of good biscuit have been found in a barrel of 1 10 i>ounds. The second
barrel of the two, which is bread, it is thought may be good. 50 i)ounds of tliis 58 remain on hand. The
sledge to-day brought up two barrels of the Luglish cache and a lot of < lotliing. .\moiig other things is
the coat of a lieutenant in the navy, which 1 have taken possession of. Weather to-day overcast and foggy,
and ([uite cold and dismal. Among the clothing are two mattresses, a pair of army pants, bloose, shirts,
drawers, &c. Also a number of miscellaneous articles of dress (supposi'd) tiirown ashore at the time of the
wreck of the Proteus. To-night we have mutton aiul two cans of salmon for supper — about a third of what
would be nece-ssary to satisfy the appetite. Tiiis constant hunger is a m-serable feeling, and goes not a little
ways to make our circumstances more dismal. Still the parly all reni.iiii in good spirits. 1 dread next
month, however, when we commence a still farther reduction. How often my thoughts winder liomoward
to the dear ones there. ' I went along to-day ami helped to drag back the sledge, my knee being better.

Oitohi'r 28. — Cooks called at 4 a. m. 7 a. m., li. |ilarometer| 29.88 | /58.y4"'"'|. Thermometer 38
1+3-3° ^'l- Pledge jjarty left at 7.30. Morning very dark antl overcast, with heavy fall of snow and light
wind. The high temperature this morning was while the lamps were burning. The usual height during tlie
day was about 29° | — 1.7° C |. .At noon the outside temperature was reported at — 2" [—18.9° ('.|. The
(mean memorandum) |mininuimj list night was — 17.5" |— 27.5" C.|. I did not accompany the sledge party
on account of my knee. Some of the jiarty came in at 3.15, and the rest about 15 minutes later. Tlie sledge
i)roke ilown again about three miles from here. The party encountered violent wiiul, with heavy snowfall,
which, with the darkness, made their trip very trying. The whale boat at Sabine (the .Wirwluil) has been
broken up fi)r fiiel, ami part of her w.is brouglil in lo-ilay. 'I'he remain<ler is all that iiow remains to be
brought up fnjni Sabine. t)tlier setlions of the sledge gave way. This life is miserable. We have insuffi-
cient sup])ly of everything. Kven the blubber will support but one poor light, and that hardly for the winter.

i il

• 1)

i ■!

392

THE LADY FKANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

We must rely on the whale-boat anil the barrel staves mostly for fuel, the alcohol being mostly exhausted.
Cold, dampness, darkness, and hunger are our portion every day and all day. In the hut here one has to
grope around in the darkness to find everything laid down. I.ong went out to-iiay as yesterday, but witli no
success. To-day he found so violent a wind and snow storm that he and the two Eskimo came back.
Henry read "A Bad Hoy " last night, and Rice finished the news|)aper scraps. To-night we have Clay's
letter again and some more reading.

October 29. — Hreakfast at 7 a. m. of boiled meat, hard bread, and tea. This roast beef is liked very
much, which is more than can be said of tlie corned beef. The Castine mutton is full of bones, and has
excited the indignation of every one. When issued we have been getting 6 ounces of it each, and it is very
trying, when getting so little, to find a large fraction of it small bone. The barometer at 7 a. m. this morning
was 30.03 [762.75"""]. Last night the roof dropped [dripped] somewhat. Cor[)oral [Sergeant] Klison
engaged for several hours in mending the sleilge. Most of the rest occupied a couple hours in i)ringing
sand to jiut under the sleeping-bags. Two mattresses and old clothes, a few buffalo coats, blankets, iVc,
were distributed around. I drew for trie second mattress, for the doctor and myself, and got it. 'i'here are
only two. Lieutenant (ireely has the otlier. Ciariliner is using it at present, as well as liis sleeping-bag.
Occupied some time this morning in scratching like a dog in the place where the moldy dog-biscuit were
emptied. Founil a few crumbs and small i)ieces, and ate mold and all. Weather overcast antl snowing
lightly. Long and Frederik | Christiansen] went out to hunt to-tlay, but got nothing. Long fell in the water.
Ellis went out afterwards also for seals, but got nothing. Many seals have been .seen, but they are a great
ways off, and there is a great de.al of o|)en water. Cold, damiiness, darkness, ami hunger are our ilaily and
hourly jjorlion. We now get about one-fourth what we could eat at a meal, anil this limited allowance is
to he much farther reduced as soon as the sledging is done, which about November i.

Ocli>l>(-r T,o. — ("ooks called at 4 a. m. 7 a. m., barometer 29.81 [757.16' ]. 8 a. m., sledge party

started for whale-boat, twelve of us in all — Mrainard, Rice, and myself, iVc. We had eacii issued two rations
of lime-juice pemmican for hreakfast — those of the party. Fmmd high tide, but got along very well.
Morning gloomy ami overcast, and sky obscured by luow clouds, witli a brisk wind from the west, ^\'e
could hardly see the way; lost it in several places. Old route covered up with simw-drifts. Reached the
whale-boat in two and a half hours, and delayed three-quarters of an hour in breaking her up and loading
her upon the sledge. The doctor joined the |)arty after starting back — also Hrainard. Came along home
very well. Reached ipiarters at ly^ p. m. Rum issued after getting in. Hereafter we shall have it only
on Sundays. After getting in spent half an hour in scratching in the snow for the crumbs of moldy dog-
biscuit. This (log biscuit, the moldy, has a bad effect ui)on me. 'J'his evening Mender killed a blue fox
near the house. He struck him over tiie head with his fist. Breakfast tiiis morning consisted of 4 ounces
01 sausage, 4 of hard bread and tea, and 2 ounces of pemmican for tiic sledge party. This is about double
what the ration is to be reduced to in a few days. Kven now we arc always hungry, with a constant long-
ing for food. Supper to-night consisted of 4 (junces of pemmican anil four of hard breail and tea — two
cups.

Tile following is tiie schedule of daily rations proi)oseil until March i next: 4^ ounces of meat, con-
sisting of roast beef, corned beef, seal, peiumic.in, or bacon, {j^^^ of extract of meat, ii,**,,- butter, ,'0% lard,
j-JV soup, 6,\ bread, ^%q rice; 12 pounds are ke[)l over for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Peas, ,'-„-j, ; corn,
iVii ; carrots, -i^jf ; raisins ,-';,",. I'lxlra allowamc Thanksgiving and Christmas. Pickles, ,yj, ; ,',|^j,- milk ; ex-
tract coffee, //„ ; tomatoes, |J„'u ; exiracl chocolate, i',;', ; potatoes, 3-,';, ; dog-biscuit, i**,, oz. This for 120
days from November r.

4.25 -f 1.01=5.26 "meat." .09 + .22 -|- .19 -f- .40= .90 "vegetables" (life sustaining). 6.4 -]-.8 [ = ]
7.20, bread.

5.26
.90

.64

6.99 -|- 7. 20=13. ro ['4-'9|-
Lor.;; nd tie a 1 natives went up again to Ri< c Strait.

(IfoOer 31. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.82 1757.41"""], Fox came round this morning at 7 a.m., but it
was 100 dark to sho^i with the riHe, and the siiot-gun is not in order.

'•Wf ■

Jit!

TUF, I.ADV FHANKLIN HAY KXPEDFTTON.

393

Sledge party got off at 7.50 a. in. Readied load just beyond tide crack, in two and a iialf hours; got
back at 12.10 J) 111. Clear and moderately calm, 'riiermometer after breakfast + 2 [—16,7° C.|. (\[ean
mem(/raiidum) |mininuim| —40 | — 40.0° C'.|. \'ery high tide to-day. To-morrow our reduction of rations
commences. Whether we can live on su< h a driblet of food remains to be seen. We are now constantly
hungry, and the constant thought and talk run on food, dishes of all kinds, and what we have eaten, and
wiiat we hoiie to eat when we reach civilization. I have a constant longing for food. Anything to t'lU nie
up. (lod! what a life, A few crumbs of hard bread taste delicious. One imagines one thing and another
another. I spend much time in thinking (>( bills of fare, ('orpoiaj | Sergeant] P^lison is to have a Hudson
Bay sledge made by to-morrow, and Rice, l.inn, Klisfjii, and Frederick are to start on it afterward for fape
Isal)ella for the four boxes (144 pounds) of English preserved meat there. Tiiey are to have an increase
of rations during their absence, which Rice puts at eight days. The huntinr; \y.\iij l.c^c a slight increase of
rations during their absence. I hope to (lod they have got sometliing. How ol"ten my thoughts wander
home, and 1 recall my dear father, mother, and the family generally — then comes the family dishes of all
kinds. Numb fingers an<l want of light — 1 can write no nior<;. The sledge is to be niade out of the timbers
of the boat. We now iiave everytliing from Sabine and vicinity, and are very glad of it. No sledging any
more, exce))ting Rice's trip, until spring, should we live to see it.

Thursday, Noviiiiber i. — (^ooks calle'! at 5 a. m. Breakfast consisted of a handful of pieces of hard
bread and a piece of butter ab;v.:i- as big as one's finger. About as hungry after as before eating.

7 n. m., barometer 29.^17 [753.60"""] (anerriik) [aiKjroid]. Temperature inside about 30 | — i.i°('.].
Sky overcast with heavy snow clouds as usual, with light wind from the northwest. This miserable weather
we have had since our arrival here — not one clear calm day. Hudson Bay sledge a failure, and P'.lison has
been working all day on the small sledge, which has been made narrower and shorter. This is the sledge
that the men call the man-killer. I'rejiarations under way during the day for the departure of the party for
Isabella to-morrow. They are to be gone eight days and expect to bring back at least 100 pounds of the
144 pounds of meat there. About noon I went out and walked around for one and a half hours. About
five pounds of English potatoes are found moldy and unfit for use. I tilled my stomach with these, bad
as they are, and take the risk of their making me sick. Feel a constant longing sensation for food. C'lod !
what a miserable life. One's hand and feet are constantly cold, and we live in darkness and danijiness.
A white fox shot this morning by Schneider. We ate the entrails as well as everything else of the animal.
Lamps lighted for supper at 2.30 p. m. Supper consists of chocolate and a small piece of roast beef, with
a handful of crackers.

Noveml'cr 2. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.71 [754.62"""]. Day like all the rest since we have been here;
sky hidden, with snow clouds with light northwest wind, dark and cold. Rice, Finn, Flison, and Fred-
erick got off with the sledge and load about 8.30 a. m. for Isabella. We trust they will be fortunate and
get the meat, and thus iii' ease our poor driblet of food. Some time after breakfast Hrainard went down to
the landing about half a le from here and shot a blue fox, weight about ^y, pounds. Some time after
\var(!s Ralston shot a wl fox quite near the house, weight 5 pounds. Lieutenant Kislingbury was very
sick last night and in gr . pain, so as to nearly make him faint. It was a strain of the private parts, brought
on by colli and sledgiiv -^p. We now eat much of our meat cold, having nothing hot but the tea. 'I'he
stoves were put in use Inr the first time and proved ijuite satisfactory. Only half a barrel stave was used
up by the two stoves. i a little pine wood for kindling. It will be necessary to use wood for the next
three months. We h but little alcohol left. It is decided, however, 10 use but one stove hereafter, each
mess cooking in ti The stove consists of a simi)le cylinder of sheet iron, tlie pot being placed on tup.

We have had read, g so far every night. "A Had lioy,'' " Two on a Tower," anil the Bible have been read
so far. We have I'i kvvick, and I have some books of " McCarthy's History of Our Own Times." We
also have NordenskioM, Kane, Hayes, and Nares, with which we are all quite familiar, however. (Mean
memorandum) [minim im reading] of the thermometer, between yesterday afternoon and this afternoon,
—9.2° ] — 22.9°C.| (outside). Most of as took an hour or more exercise to-day, mostly in cutting and
carrying snow blocks.

NpTfiii/'i-r ^. — 7 a. ni., barometer 29.67 [753.60"'"']. We got through breakfast at 7 a.m. The other
mess cooked first and \, • afterwards. Very little wood vised. Indeed, nothing was cooked but a cu[) of tea
to each man. Sup[)e: 1.; ,t night consisled of tea, a little bread, and some i)ieces of canned roast beef. Break-
fast this morning of a few mouthfuls of h;ird brear. and a little piece of butter, about as large as one's finger.
I had some moldy potatoes, which I had at my breakfast. They are spoiled and moldy all the way through.

( I

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394

THE LADY PKANKLIN BAY KXI'KDITION.

but anything that fills the stomarh is grateful. Cut out and brought in some snow blocks to-day, as yesterday,
for exercise; they are to build our house. Long returned about noon, by himself, with the joyful news that
the hunters had got another seal; this one, shot by Long, must weigh about lo pounds more than the last,
or about 70 ])ounds of meat. Thermometer to-day, at 1 o'clock, —13° [ — 25.0° C.J; (mean memorandinn)
[minimum! S'l'ii'i-' yesterday the same. Clear sky to-day for the first time, with alight northwest wind. Our
constant tojiic of conversation is food — what we have eaten, and what we expect to eat when we get b.ick
to America. Fingers and toes cold nearly all the time; tem|)erature here in the house about freezing
point [0.0" C.| all the time. God! this miserable existence cannot be conceived of by any one but ourselves.
Constant thoughts of home and dear ones there. Long saw two fresh bear tracks near his tent; they came
from Hache Island. Sup|)er to-night consists of one cupof tea, 4 ounces of corned-beef, and about the same
of hard bread. Smoke from the stove is intolerable, the only outlet being a small hole in the boat overhead.
We shall jjiobably improvise some kind of a chimney or stove-pipe.

Niivi-mhcr \ [Siiiii/ijy). — Harometer 29.61 [752.08"""] Long went back this morning, starting about
8 o'clock. Breakfast of hard bread, stew, and tea. For dinner we have a seal stew and tea. These dishes
taste deliciousl) ; the only trouble is there is not enough. To-day being Sunday, we have a half gill of
rum each, and a ijuarter of a lemon. Some work done on the snow house for the commissary. It is just
south and adjoining our hut. Sky clear this morning and now. Afterwards it came on fogg)'. Dinner
consisted of a stew of fox, seal cracklings, onion, onion i)ickles, and,?, little hard bread, in all aboiit a quar-
ter as much as one could eat. We all pronounced it excellent, <lelicious, and something ])articulatly nice.
Oh! for all the turkey and bread we could eat! In the evening we had a general discussion on the subject
of the proposed dinner in Washington on our return. The dinner is not to cost more than .$5, and i>r.
Pavy, Rice, and Schneider are named as the committee to make the bill of fare, iS:c. A French restaurant,
possibly Hayes' Hotel [opposite Willard'sJ, is the place named.

Novemhei 5. — 8 a. m., barometer 29.60 [ysi.S-j"''"]- To-day a canvas finally was fixed above the
stove, but it is not perfect, and the stove still smokes. Temperature this afternoon —9 [ — 22.8° C.j.
(Mean temperature) [minimum j since yesterday, —.20° [ — 28,9° C.j. Calm and clear most of the day. It
is getting darker daily; sun disappeared October 25, and reappears l'"ebruary 16, but being on the north
side of a high ridge of rocks, its actual disappearance will be much longer. A good deal of fi>g all day.
The party seem in excellent spirits; conversation mostly about food and dishes. Hreakfast this morning
consisted of a little piece of lard, and a few spoonsful of hard bread. Sui;per to night of tea, 4j/jf ounces of
pjiglish meat, and a little hard bread. The hard bread is issued for n'glu and for morniig, and it is with
great difticulty that one restrains himself from eating up his morning bread at nij:!'!. Temperature in tiie
hut, during most of the day, about 30 to 32 [ — 1.1° to 0.0° C.]. The commissary store-house was finished
to-day, built of snow covered with canvas.

___

'^\

./■

It
* II,

a. Wail of snow blocks.

l>. Spate liiled with snow.

( . Wall of sno^v bliicifs.

(/. Wall of rocks.

e. Rice's ':leeping-bag.

/. Sleeping-bag ot Israel. Jewell, and Gardiner.

g. Sleeping-bag of I.ieuteriant Greely.

h. Sleeping-bag of ( toss. Hemler, and Schneider.

I. Sleepinp-bag of llrainard, Frederick and /. I. inn, Ellscn, and Ellis.

\\hislcr. y. Aisle.

J. Lieut. K. [Kislingburyl, I'rederik, [Chris- r. Rear.

tiansen]. Jans I/ens], and |in| s. <'oniniissary store-house (i and r built of

/. Ralston, Connell. and liciiry. snow).

w. Dr. I". [Pavyl. si. Stove.

II. |l.ieut.| 1. -d ll.ockwood], Salor, Bie- j:k. Hlubber-lanip.

ilerbick, and Long.

The building is 18 by 24feet [about 5.5 by 7.3"'| in the clear. The space (> is about four feet [1.2°'].
Over (/ extends the whale-boat, from each side of which to the wall the space overhead is covered with
canvas; over all light blocks of snow. Oars, «S:c., a.xtend from the boat to the ^^'all and support the can\as,

THK l-ADY FRANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

395

&c. The stove seems to burn at the rate of two barrels a week. Most of the weeks, however, nothing is
cooked but the tea, or coffee, or chocolate. Breakfast this morning about 7 o'clock, and supper at j.
Breakfast has been a little earlier heretofore. Reatling every evening for about two hours — that is, from
about 5 to 7 — when we go to sleep.

AWembi-r G. — 7 a.m., barometer 29.69 [753.86"'"']. Brisk wind from the northwest. Noon, ther-
mometer observation —11° [ — 23.9° C.]. (Mean meniorantlum) [minimum] since yesterday, —21°
[ — 29.4" t'.J. To-day the commissary store-house was finished, and the vestibule or tunnel roofed over. I
occupied all the forenoon in sewing on my sleeping-bag. I did not go out to work, and only took a run of
a few minutes for exercise. Stew this morning of tomatoes and this evening of seal meat. Animated con-
versation all Cdy on the subject of food, various dishes, &c. The doctor recommends a cheap dish of egg
tripe made of hard-boiled eggs, 1 oz. butter, cream, flour, pepper, and salt. We have a constant longing for
food. A little blubber was put in the stew this evening. We could all eat blubber now aU libitum, entrails
of any kind, or anything else.

November 7. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.72 [754.87"""]. Cold wind blowing this morning. Breakfast, tea
and stew of carrots, hard bread, and potatoes. Supper of roast beef, tea, and hard bread. Hard bread is
issued for night and morning, and it requires great self-restraint to refrain from eating up the morning allow-
ance. Some work done to-day on the out-house, but the wind was so cold that it was very cold work. I
carried a dozen snow blocks. About 12 o'clock Frederik, Eskimo, came in, and when first seen we had
many fears of accident to the parties out; but he came immediately with the message from T or.<T to the
ertect that he would come in to-morrow, there being no chance of getting seals. We start u, '• o.orrow
with the sledge (eight of us) to bring in the tent, &:c. Supper about 3 o'clock. Stove lighted ai 2i-< every
day now. The two messes cook in turn, each cook alternating in cooking first. Brainard found to-day, by
actual weighing, that we have 290 pounds of seal blul)bcr on hand. This is very gratifying. We are all in
excellent spirits and get along very well so far on starvation rations. It is quite surprising. I cut up my
small allovvfance > f bread to-night and i)oured a little tea in to soften it. The meat I heat up in the same
way. The ( ■ii'^ of meat are tiiawed out by being kept in the sleejjing bags during the day.

Xovcmber S. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.87 [758.68"""]. (J!ooks called at 4 a. m. Tarty started for straits
at 7.10 a. m. Light northwest wind. Very severe trip, buffered severely during the day from cold hands
and feet. Thermometer during my absence, —25 to —31 [ — 31.7 to —35.0° C.J. The party who went up
consisted of myself, Brainard, Dr. Pavy, ^Vhisler, Ellis, Jewell, Salor, and Frederik, Eskimo. Three and a
half hours occupied in going and four and a quarter in returning. Reached hut again on return at 3.15
jj. rn. Sledge traveling on rations reduced like ours is a very serious matter, but we stood the trip well.
Long and Jans [Jens] cauie back with us. ^\'e brought tent, sleei)ing-bag, &:c. Long only shot one seal
on this last visit. Shortly after our return, and after our mess had finished su[)per, Biederbick called attention
to some no^se heard outside. We thought it was a bear. It was called aloud to find out who was outside,
and Schneider was the only one out. Biederbick then went out, and in going on said that he saw some one
going out of the commissary store-house, and that the covering of the door was removed. I and others
immediately noticed this on coming in. Schneider is suspected of being the man, and has done nothing
but his simple denial to prove the untruthfulne.ss of the charge. Most of the party seem to think that
Schneider is the guilty one. Supper to-night of tea, half a biscuit, and half the 8 ounces of English meat
allowed the sledge party this morning. Weather overcast and threatening snow all day. Those who wished
It were issued the Sunday rations of rum to-night. Those of the sledge party thus got two rations, one gill;
those of them who wished it.

Ntn'cmber () — Cooks called at 6 a. m. 7 a.m., barometer 29.95 [760.72"""]. Calm and somewhat
clearallday. Some little work done outsuie. At noon observation, temperature — 23.5 [ — 3o.8''C.]. (Mean
memorandum) [minimum] since yesterday ncjon, —30 [ — 34.4°C.]. Lowest observations in the hut to-day,
+ 14.5 [ — 9.7° C], which was when the cook got up this morning. In the afternoon before dinner it was
+ 24 [ — 4.4° C.j. It is so cold in here tiiat one cannot expose his hantls without discomfort. Tiie hut is
not yet (juite finished, the outer walls being incomplete. Rice and party have not come, though dinner was
put off until 3.30. For dinner we had tea. a spoonful of English meat, and a handful of hard bread. Break-
fast was chocolate, a little piece of butter, and a little bread. One is more hungry when he gets through
these meals than before. To-day 1 tbund in the old commissary storehouse a milk can opened, though none
of the contents were gone. It was hidden in the corner, bender identified the knife used as that of
Schneider's. Uid some sewing on my slecping-ba;; to-day. 1 he conversation is constantly (jn the subject

1 il

■1 I

390

THK LADY FUANKLIN I5AV KXI'KDITION.

of food. l.ieutLMiaiU Circcly read McCarlliy's liistor) l.isi nij^Iu instead of myself; I was tired and felt indis-
posed. This maj^azine, with liililc, Pickwick, and Peek's Pad Piov. now coniiirise our nightly reading.
Among our many discomfort:; we are afllic led at ea< h meal with dense \nhnnes of smoke nearly suffocating,
and very trying on tlie eyes.

Hill of I'ari- for nucl: coiiiiiii'iiiini; A'lirriii/iri- A'.

Nov. S. lircakfast, rice and tea; dinner, corned lieef ami lea.
Nov. 9. lireakfa.sl, butter and hard hread ; dinner, Knj;lisli lieef ami lea.
Nov. lo. Ilreakfast, ve^elable simp, exlrael meat, and lea; dinner, seal slew.
Nov. II. lireakfa.sl, slew n( hard bread, raisins, l^ird, and niilK ; dinner, roast heel.
Nov. 12. Ilreakf.ist, chocolate, hnller, anil bread; dinner, I'.nnlish meal.
Nov. I \. Iireakfast, vej;elable .slew with meat exlrael; diiiiier, seal sUw .
Nov. 14. Breakfast, colTee, bread, and lard ; dimier, Knjjiish meal.
Three ijuarter ounces bre.ad; the three ounces lo make up the 7 '4 ounces beinj,' put in the slew.

AWrm/'cr \o. — Rice came in suddenly about midnight, or a little hetore, last night. He reported
different disastrous news: That he and the party, Klison, I, inn, and Frederick, had got along (|uite well for
some days, but that Kliscjii suffered a great deal from cold, crossing from Eskimo Point to Cajjc Isabella,
and soon showed signs of giving out. However, they kept on, reached Isabella, got the 144 i)oimds of meat
and started back. On the way l);ick ]'',lison became worse and was unable to drag, and hardly ai)le to walk.
They let him walk along behind, but Kli.son became worse and worse, and soon froze his feet, hands, and
nose. On reaching the snow slope between Rossc l>ay and the little bay on the other side of tlu' neck of
land, they were unable to pull their sledge up the grade, and Rice came f)n for assistance, leaving the other
three men behind — Elisoii very bad. A relief party was immedi:itely organized; myself, Or. Pavy, IJrainard,
Jewell, Fllis, Schneider, and the two Fskimo. Hrainard starteil with Krederik [Christiansen | and a suj)-
ply of liijuor, &c., at 4.30 a. m. We had breakfast shortly before, and at 6.20 a. m. the main party started.
It was very dark ;uid we floundered in the snow for some time, losing the trail several times. Reached
Long's Point at noon, and kept on down Rice Strait with a severe gale blowing. Reached our old camp
at the farther side in three hours more. About here 1 '.'xpecteil to meet JJrainard and I'"rei!erik [Christian-
sen] with the two well men on their way back, but seeii.^ n.ithing of them we kept on in the increasing
gloom. It blew hard and was very cold. In aiiout two iiours we perceived Prainard and Frederik
(Christiansen) coming to meet us. They reported that the three men were unable to do anything for them-
sc'v IS, and were lying under iheir canvas sail with little or nothing to eat — that Elison was in a very l)ad
way. Rice had reported Eli.son unable to live, and I was surprised to find him still alive. He could not
hola 'fiis water and urinated constantly in his sleeping-bag. We kept on until 6.10 p. m., when, having
visited the old camp on the farther side of Rosse Pay, we halted and pitthed the tent, and after rum, bread,
bacon, and tea were served, got into the sleeping-bags. We had three three-man slee|)ing-bags on the
sledge and a single-man Iiag. We got to bed in the darkness as best we could — Prainard, Jewell, and I
slept in one bag, the doctor in the single bag, and the othei- four in the other bag — about 9 o'clock p. m. We
had a little piece of cr.ndle, but it only sutficed for sii|iper.

November 1 1. — 4 a. m., got breakfast in the darkness as best we could, and then hail a most uncom-
fortable time in trying to get up frozen foot-gear. About 5.30 a. m., Prainard ami Frederik [Christiansen]
got off for the jjarty ; we followed at 8 o'clock, leaving the tent standing. Reached the poor fellows one
hour afterwards. Prainard had got some breakfast ready for them, using our rations. We had only brought
along some two days' rations for eight men. Here we had to feed eleven men. Just got Elisor, in the sand-
bag and put him on the emjjty sledge and started on return at 9.30 a. m. Brainard cooked between two
rocks protected from the wind. Reached the tent with our sick men in about an hour, and at 10.40 had
the tent packed and started again on return, (lot along quite well, eight of us pulling. Linn and Frederick,
much broken up, had started for the hut at 9.30 to go through by themselves. They soon got ahead
of us. Reached the farther side of the bay in ;d)out three and a half hour.s — very tired. Kej)! on up the
strait, and at 5 o'clock p. m. stopped at Long's Point and i)itched tent and ate supper of b.icon, hard
bread, and tea. The rum was almost all i;one — had leaked out this side. Our meat consisted of bacon and
English roast Iieef. No jjotatoes nor anyihing else. At S p. m. got started again, .and the moon shining
brightly we got along very well.- Our meal exhauslL,! our provisions, and we had nothing left. Elison was

TIJK LADY FUANKLIN I»AY HXPBDITIOX.

397

suffering ^ruatly, and I'vcrytliing induced me U> try ;ind make the luit without stujiping over. We had a
lung, Mvere trip to tlie hut. W lien near it I went ahead and roused up tiie main party. Ciut in with EUson
at 2.20. 'remperature — found it after {getting in — 34.5° 1—36.9° ( .|.

Novi'inlifr 12. — (ISarometer at S a. m., ."(j.yS | — 75().4o"""|). '.20 a. ni., relief party got in. We pre-
ledeil them aljout ten miiuite.s. We were all e.xhausled and are still ijuite tired. I, inn and I'Vedcrick got
in about 5 or 6 p. in. on the iith. Teniperature this at'ternocjn, —24 |— 31.1" ('.|. s\'e encountered no
wind after leaving the strait. Nothing new during djsen<e. Ate ravenously at"ter getting in. Ate morn-
ing and evening allowaiK e of liread, and had no bread for dinner. |)inner at 2 p. m. ((insisted for me only
of a mouthful of English meat ar.d tea. (iod knows yet whetiier l'!lison's feet will iiaxe to be cut off or
not. He is now suffering a good de;'l and his condition is desperate. I sent word by I, inn that I would
try and make Long I'oint and come in to-day, and so, though a hel|)ing [larty was organized, and were to
start by moonlight for our assistance, no one had started out. \'ery hard tri|i, and but one instance of what
men can do when necessity comjjels.

NoTcmbrr 13. — Kind myself (|uite stiff to-day and my iieel strings very sore. Have remained in the
sleeping-bag all day. Breakfast this morning of iiard bread and rice made into a stew, with tea. Supper
to-night consisted of a stew of fox, seal blubber, seal hide, llavored with o::ion. It was very nice ai'.vl ([uite
tilling, comparatively speaking. 'I'emijerature about noon, — 27 |— 32-8° C.|; (mean memorandum) |mini-
mum], -'^}, \ -3(^.1° C.]. It is yet unknown whether Klison will hjse his feet or not. If tl;e) lu've to be
am[)Utated it will probaiily end his life, as a small pocket case of instruments is all the d(i( tor has, and of
course our miserable surroundings would jjut tiie case in its most luifavorable light, liiedeiimk shot a fox
to-day — fne and a half pounds dressed — white, 'i'hese fo.xes are e.\tra, and this one gives us fox for Thanks-
giving Day. Eating and dishes form the chief subject of conversation. Breakfast in the morning consists
of lard, hard bread, and coffee. I have saved all my night's hard bread, though with great ctil'ort,

November 14. — Breakfast of hard bread, lard, and cofilee. I saved all my hard bread issued last night
for two meals, and so feel somewhat satLstied this morning. Supper of tea, hard bread, and English beef.
The tea only was heated. One tries everything to make these meals seem to go farther. The stew, when we
have one, generally comes before the tea. Sometimes I eat my cold meat at once, with or w ithout the bread.
Sometimes I keep them until tht; tea comes. Sometnnes I [lour hot tea on my cold meat or bread or on
both. All of no avail. V'ou cannot make a mouthful of food fdl the stomach. Our talk is incessantly
about food or dishes, 'i'hermometer at noon, — 1<; |— 28.3"C;.); (mean memorandum) |minimuinj, —30
[—34.4° C^.J. I'oor Elison's feet are turning dark. Tlie S|)irits of the party keep \\\> wonderfully. Smoke at
every meal almost iiisui)portable | insufferable |. It is blinding, and hides everything. We are getting used
somewhat to the dim light of the ICskimo lamp. All look forward eagerly to Thanksgiving.

Novcinhcr 15. — Very cold. Thermometer at noon, —33.5 1—36.4° C.J; (mean memorandum) f mini-
mum], — 38.3 1—39.0° C.J. Tem|ietature inside at noon was -I-32 [—0,0° C.J. The wall of the com-
missary store-house, and the vestibule ailjoining was plastered today with sludge, lireakfast this morning
of soup and tea, and for dinner corned beef and tea. Oh! this everlasting hunger— it is a terrible feeling,
and I hope ne\er t(j re[)eat it — this feeling of never having enough to eat. Our talk is incessantly about
food anil dishes, restaurants and hotels, ainl everything in connection with eating. How we watch the cook
and speculate on the ( hances of getting a good or |)oor share. This we sjieculate to ourselves, for we all
admit that the cooks are as lair as they can be. I went out to-day and worked with the rest. Lieutenant
Greely goes out but for a few minuiijs during the course of the day, and does no work. He is particularly
sensitive to the cold. I felt so weak to-day that a small block of snow felt like a weight of lead. To-night
we had i.ssued our allowance of butter for two days. That Is lof to-morrow morning and for Monday morn-
ing ; also, bread as usual for night and morning. It .vas nith dilHculty 1 sa\ed a little of my morning's
bread.

Nmrmlhr 16. — Overcast and dull. Thermometer at neon, —12° ( — 24.4" C.J ; (mean memorandum)
IniinimuniJ, —31 [—35.0° (!. J. Worked outside on the vesti'iule. Talk all day about food. Everyone
talks constantly about it, antl the subject is tlie one absorbing one, for we suffer a great deal from hunger.
The straits ap|)arently closed for the [i.ist i^^w days. Many of us ,ue suffering from frost-bites. Our small
allowance of food makes us extremely sensitive to the cold. Elison's case not altogether hopeless. He gets
a slight increase of ration.

!i'

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398

THK LADY FRANKJJN PAY KXIMODITION.

Memorandum : Arme Rittcr, tripe, eggs, Boston baked beans, and brown bread at (iodfrey's ; Hamburg
beefsteak.

N. Vi'inher 1 7, — 7 a. m., haroincter J9.62. Noon temperature, — 1 1 [ — 24.4° C] ; (mean memorandum)
[minimum], —28 [—33.3° C'.j. line seal stew for sujiiJcr. For breakfast vegetable stew. Day overcast,
with a light wind. Roof put on vestibule. Talk all (la\ on the subject of food. Lieutenant (!reely made
some remarks in the afternoon on the physical geugrajihy of the I'nitfil States. Lieutenant Kislingbury
much better. Uiederbii:k has got something like a felon. C'ro.ss and Henry suffering from frost-bites.

Memorandum : Cocoanut ])udding (alternate layers of crackers and cocoanut) ; apricot paste; English
plum [ludding. \'ery high tide to-day.

Novi-mhir iiS. — Hreaktast at 7 o'clock. Harometer, 29.50 [749.29""'!. Noon thermometer, — 12
[— 2^4° C.j. (Mean memorandum) [minimumj, — 14 [ — 25.6° Cj. I have not been out of doors all day.
We hail a line stew this morning of hard l)rea<l and raisins and coffee, two plates three-quarters full for each.
The meal was (piite tilling. .Sup|>er: Hard bread, roast beef, and tea. 'I'alk during the day about food, as
usual; fruits, nuts, and everything eatable; restaurants, hotels, and everything in connection with food. It
is really amusing how this subject absorbs everything. Lieutenant Clreely spoke for an hour in the after-
noon on the subject of the United States climate, pnviucts, \c. Hiederbick's finger is better, and bids fair
to get well without forming a felon, as feared, Kislingbury is still on the sick list. Henr)', Cross, and others
are suffering from slight frost bites. Dinner at 2.30 p. ni. We have fre(|uent talks about I'"ort Conger and
the food enjoyed there. Oh! the dear ones at home, how 1 long to see them. Brainard plants a pole on a
neighboring rock to-day, to attract the attention of any jiarty from the other side. Last night Connell and
Henry related personal reminiscences of their lives.

Nm^emher 19. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.55 [75°-S^"""]- Noon thermometer, — 32 [— 35.6° C.]. (Mean
memorandum) [minimumj, — 34 [— 36.7° C.]. Jans [Jens] shot a blue fox this evening, quite a large one.
This is for Christmas. The entrails of this fox go to the other mess; the rest of the meat is divided ecjually
between the two messes. Day overcast. Bread reduced now to 6 ounces a day, and meat to 4 ounces.
This is on account of increased rations issued Elison. He gets 10 ounces bread and 8 ounces meat. Ate
a lot of moldy dog biscuit to-ilay, about enough to make p starved dog sick. Feel ravenous, and could eat
anything now in the shape of food. Fill up with tea leaves when any are left over, there is quite a de-
mand for them.

Memorandum: Puffery Auflauf [Puffigcr Aufliiufer, puflfy cake]. Sives [Chives] with scrambled eggs.
Molasses and butter mixed.

Lieutenant (Ireely made some remarks this evening on the grain products of the United States. Last
evening we had " I'ickwick," " Two on a Tower," and the " History of Our Own Times." 1 have handed the
book over to Henry; he has a louder voice. Went out and took a little exercise to-day. About 10 pounds
of this barrel of dog biscuit are utterly worthless. There were two barrels in all. Talk this evening all on
the subject of eating. This is a fast day; bread and butter for breakfast, and chocolate; and for sujjper
English preserved meat. The English preserved meat goes but a little ways, and satisfies less than any of
the rest. Smoke, smoke, smoke at every meal. A canvas chimney has been put up, but only partially
carries away the smoke. Another fox shot — blue one. Weight of these two foxes 31^ and 4 pounds, dressed.

November 20. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.92 [759-95'" j. Noon thermometer, — 16 [— 26.7° C.]; (mean
memorandum) |minimuni], — 32 [ — 35.6° C.]. Day overcast, straits apparently closed. Took ten round
trips up and down the lake for exercise about noon. Every time I venture out I ;, t my feet so cold that it
is hours before I get them warm again. We now have a fox for Thanksgiving and another for Christmas.

Memorandum: Fromage de Brie — Mcfiruder's [Magruder's], New York [Avenue]. Liquors at idem.
Kra'.ts (baker), Catawba wine, $1 per gallon. Scubana [.Scupiiernong] wine.

Elison, Biederbick, Henry, and Cross suftering from frost-bites. Our talk ccntinuvs constantly about
food, dishes, confectionery, cakes, cheeses, iVc. General remarks on American products by Lieutenant
Greely this morning. Many arguments about what we shall like when we get back — of fox, .seal, &c., that
we eat now with so much avidity.

Memorandum : St. John's biscuit (at St. Johns); Canton ginger root ; cut oranges and grated cocoanut.

Our spirits remain gooil, and we manage to get along with our dole of food with resignation. Brainard
is to visit at the house when we return, and get some of our Maryland dishes, preserved peaches, &c., &c.,
and see my folks.

Memorandum; D[B]eschamel sauce; Mayonnaise sauce.

ti*<

■"Ubu,

THK LADY FlfANKMV HAY KXI'KDITIOX.

399

Nm'embfr 2\. — 7 ;i. m., baroineter 30.00 [769/)i"""]. I )i y ovt-nast and fo^ny. It is now ^I'tling i|uite
(lark. Noon thermometer, — t4 [ — 25.6" (!.|. (Mean memorandinn) [minimum], —23.5 [—30.8" ('.|. I did
not go out to-day. The convcr^iati()^ has taken a new turn. Most of the men are talking of going into
business. Wliisler has been singing the praises of Indeiiendence, Kans., and we are going to liave a client
|colonyJ there. Long is to set uj) a restaurant at .Ann Ilaibor [Arbor] Mich., and Frederick is to start a
saloon at Minnea[)olis, Minn. Jewell is going to start a grocery at Independence.

Memorandum: .Nhiple molasses (Whisler) ; ]iuin])kin butter.

Another fox is around. Allowance of lard is to be reduced this ( oining week, on a< count of some
issued for Klison's frostbites. No reading last night. Ameiican mineral products discoursed on by Lieu-
tenant (Ireely this niorninj. Ne.vt week there is to be a slight addition of the butter, milk, and raisins.
(Jod! what an experience is this I am going through. Such an exjjcrience is er.ough for one's life. How I
long for the time to pass. We are all in good spirits and seem to be getting along well so far, but what
three more months of this will bring it is impossible to say. An issue of half an ounce of blubber is to be
issued instead of the reduction of meat.

November 21. — 7.45 a. m., barometer 29.97 [761.22"""]. Spent the day in the hut. My feet cold in
the morning. Feeling bright to-night. Lieutenant (Ireely made some remarks on the geography of the
United States in the evening. Conversation during the day as usual on the subjei t of eating Mutton-pie
[larties organized for St. John's on our return. Urainard, Linn, Ralston, and myself are to go in a hack to
Topsail's, and in another, at the same time, Connell, Biederbick, Salor, and I'illis. On our return we are to
stop at-P'itzpatrick's for ham and eggs. Long shot another fox this morning (blue), three and a half ])ounds.
We take very little or no exercise; it gives one an increased appetite, and I only go outside with an effort;
it is dreary and dull and very dark.

Memorandum : Jewell is to give the c [indecipherable word] party chicken crotjuettes and oyster

patties for breakfast. \\'e still fmd fresh water in the lake, but it is necessary to dig the hole every day.
Every imaginable article in the form of food has been iliscussed to death. We all look forward to the
" son-of-a-gun " on Sunday and Thanksgiving ; after that ['I'hanksgiving] when we are to have an extra allow
ance of food. The " son-of-a-gun " is chiefly made of hard bread.

Memorandum : Sugar-house molasses.

Frederik, Eskimo, shot another fox late this evening, a blue one ; weight, when dressed, three and a half
pounds.

Nmiember 23. — Noon thermometer, —24 [ — 3i.i°C.]; (mean memorandum) [minimum], —41
[— 40.fi°C.]. Thermometer inside house about this time, +32 [0.0° C.]. Long shot a blue fox to-day ;
Frederik, F'skimo, also shot one. These foxes weigh generally three and a half or four pounds. We now
have foxes to take us up to the third week in January, 1884. They are issued extra. Breakfast this morn-
ing consisted of butter, chocolate, and bread. rfupi)er, seal stew and tea. Remarks in the morning on ihe
State of Maine, by Lieutenant Greely and others. Conversation during the day about dishes of all kinds,
and desserts, soups, &c. We never seem to weary of this subject. The straits are apparently closed as
well as we can judge, i have brought up all the dishes, desserts, &:c., we have at home. Chewed up the
foot of a fox this evening raw. It was altogether bone and gristle.

Memoran<ium : Pie of orange and cocoanut. Told them to-pight we have at home a blanc mange of
a blue cok»;, but no one could tell why it was blue.

Novtmler 24. — Breakfast at the usual hour, or a little later. Thin soup of string beans. Dinner of two
dog-biscuit and a little English preserved meat. This English meat is very unsatisfactory ; it is thin, and
goes but a little ways. The tjuality and flavor is [are] good enough, but we like our mite of meat as lean as pos-
sible. I cut my finger to-day, and I noticed how thin my blood was. Suflering a great deal to-day with
cold hands and feet — especially feet. These short rations make one feel the cold dreadfully. It is a cortstant
effort to keep one's hands and feet comfortable, or comparatively so. I find my spirits first up and then
down. Sometimes, when I think of the months bef j us of this life of misery and suffering, I do not see
how we can possibly pull through. At other times 1 leel much more hopeful. This is a life of inexpressible misery.
Lard is to be issued daily for Corporal [Sergeant] Elison, who has also an additional allowance of bread,
meat, &c. This all takes from our portion. Noon thermometer, —24 [ — 3i.i''C".]; (mean memorandum)
[minimum| —26 [ — 32..'^ C.]. Weather overcast and dark. I went out to-day for two or three minutes,
the first time for three days. I put on an extra shirt. My clothes now consist of five flannel shirts, two
vests, one of them made of double blanket, and the soldier blouse. I have my moleskin coat, but do not

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400

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

wear it now indoot . Talk to-night on home and our families. I live now for tomorrow morning, when
we have the hard-bread stew or "son-of-a-gun." My two dog-biscuit to-day were slightly moldy, but they
tasted better than the most delicious morsel in civilization. How often I think of hmiiL' and my dear father,
mother, and sisters. God! how I wish I were witii them. I pray (iod they are all wt.ll. We watch the
cooks, as they divide and <lish out our food, like hungry dogs. We all feel that the cooks are very fair and
that we all share alike. The bread is issued by Brainard for the two messes to the cooks, who divide it up.
The other things are issued weekly.

Norember 2tj. — 7.45 a. m., barometer 30. 15 [765.80"""]. Noon thermometer, 23 [ — 23 ( — 3o.6°C.)];
(mean memorandum) [minimum] 25 [—25 ( — 31.7° C.)|. Day windy and disagreeable. We had a fine break-
fast of a "son-of-a-gun" (hard bread, raisins, milk, and a little blubber). A little lenum peel was put in, but
was hardly perceptible. It was very filling, comparatively, and came near satisfying the appetite. This
evening we had a very nice soup of seal meat and fox. These stews, as we call them, are mere soups, being
very thin. None of them satisfy the appetite, and for this reason probably seem so delicious. I never in
my life enjoyed my food as I do now, A little hard bread seems delicious. To-morrow is a fast day. We
have only a little piece of butter in the morning .-uid English preserved meat for supper. Rum and lemon
to-day.

Memorandum: Duff a /« /Vy/««, pork fritters, ribs of pickled pork or bacon cooked in corn-meal, &c.;
coffee cake, molasses candied, cooked in flour dough.

We now look forward to Thanksgiving for the next good meal. A good deal of conversation to-day
on the subject of food. The spirits of the party are surprisingly good.

Memorandum: Oatmeal muffins.

Never will I .ngain expose myself to the dangers and the miseries of famine. How often I think of
home and picture to myself old familiar scenes. I have intended writing a letter recounting my experience
since leaving Fort Conger, but the discomforts of this life have prevented me so far. It is difficult to get
the blubber lamp for more than a few minutes during the cUiy, or not at all. The lamp is blown out every
evening when we are ready to retire, which is generally about 8 o'clock. Last night Frederick entcrtaineil
the party with personal reminiscences of his life. Saturday night had been set apart for personal reminis-
cences. Another fox shot to-day by F'rederik, I'^skimo. lilowing pretty heavily.

NmH-mber 26. — Have had cold feet all day and been miser.able. Spent several hours this afternoon

and evening in putting tongue in sleeping bag. 7 a. m., barometer 30.25 [768.34 j. Noon thermometer,

— 34.5 [—36.9° C.]; (mean memorandum) [minimum], —36.5 [—38.1° C.]. Straits apparently frozen over.
Day has seemetl very long. Most of us ate all our bread last night and have nothing for breakfast but
chocolate. With many others, I ate all my bread at supper this evening. Supper consisteil of bread and
tea and F^nglish meat. It is singular how much more comfortable one is after eating. .\ little food acts
like fuel. Talk during the day mostly about cakes and pies.

Memorandum: Vienna Coffee House, Broadway and F'ourteenth street. New V'ork; large assortment
of cakes, bread, and i)astry; fine chocolate, omelettes, and biscuit j:,ltHe.

We have discussed every dish under the sun, and all forms of vegetables and desserts of all kinds.
The temperature inside here during the day from +29 to -I-31 [ — 1.7° to —0.6° C.|.

No-eemher 27. — Cooks calleil at the usual time, 6 o'clock a. ni. 7 a. m., barometer 30.35 [770.88"'"'].
Noon thermometer 32.5 [ — 32.5 ( — 35.8" C.)] ; (mean memorandum) [minimum] 43.5 [—43.5 (—41.9° C.)].
Talk during the day about all dishes, s])ecially desserts and cakes.

Memorandum: .^o«/ir(/<j, Charlotte Russe, Tories \'r(>ilen\ (Vienna Cafe, New York), roast sucking
[)ig, Irish stew.

Got soup to-night of seal meat. This morning we had a stew of i)ieces, \-c. Weatlier clear and cold.
Another fox around. I have been sewing on my sleeping-bag all day. Most of the i)arty get down in their
sleeping-bags and cover up during most of the day. We are looking forward with much interest to Thanks-
giving.

Memorandum: Omelettes at the Vienna Cafe. These can be sent for by express from this pl.ace; prices
moderate.

Some of us eat all of our bread at night, and many are the ways to make our pittance of food seem
more satisfactory.

Omelette soufte.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

401

(1,

.•ir
<s-

Nin'ember 2?,. — Noon thermometer observation, — ii [ — 23.9° C.]. (Mean memorandum) [minimum]
— 34 [ — 36.7° C.]. Day windy with drifting snow. Day passed very much as usual; conversation same as
usual. I have eaten up all my bread at night for the pjist few days. I find I sleep better anti warmer in
this way, though generally I regret it at breakfast time. Fox was fired at, but escaped. Very dark now.

Memorandum: Things to be kept in my room at Washington for midnight lunches: Sardines, potteil
ham, smoked beef, smoked goose and eel, shrimps, anchovy jjaste, spiced oysters, stuffed olives, Boston
pilot bread, buttered crackers, Albert and Arundel crackers, soda anil water, ditto ginger, nuts and cakes,
can of butter and condensed milk, preserved peaches, strawberries, I'^-c, and blackberry jam, fromage tie
Brie, and Schweitzerkiise, sugar, beer, ale and porter, and cider, and liqiwurs, and Virginia seedling wine,
mustard, vinegar, pepper, salt, \'c., and Maryland biscuit, black cake.

Mnriiifn-r 29. — Cooks called at 6 a. m. 7 a. m., barometer 29.78 [756.40"""]. Noon thermometer, —5
[ — 20.6° C.J; (mean memorandum) |minimum|, —15 [ — 26.1° C.J Breakfast consisted of the usual ration
of bread and double quantity of ox-tail soup, with some rice in it. It was really a large meal, comparatively
speaking, but my anticipation led me to finish with a sense of dissatisfaction. Day passed in conversation,
&c. Psalms read in the afternoon, followed by sin .;ing " My country 'tis of thee," &c. During the afternoon

1 wrote at dictation bills of fare of different members of the party to be eaten at our next birthdays, at which
each one is to invite all the rest of the party who may be at the same place. (See end of this book.) At

2 o'clock the couking of the day commenced. First, seal stew, or rather soup of seal meat and fox meat,
with 8 ounces of bacon for our mess. It was large in (|uantity comparatively, but I must confess a sense of
dissatisfaction the same as in the morning. Just before this, 7 ounces of hard bread were issued, and our
butter for three mornings — Friday, Monday, and Wednesday next. With the hard bread issued was the rum,
it being issued on account of Thanksgiving; after this came a pudding ot rice, raisins, and some seal blubber.
Each one had a plate full, and this was cooked on the alcohol lamps instead of stove. Got through this a
few minutes ago, about 5.30 p. m. I feel nearer satisfied than I have for many weeks. Hut still I could
eat two or three pounds more of such food without being fully satisfied. The rice was six pounds and the
raisins 5 pountls, milk three cans, divided among the two messes (25 men). Two-thirds of the milk was
put in the pudding, and the rest goes in the punch, which is to be made this evening. This punch is one
gill of rum to each man, and one dozen lemons in all. The chocolate we are yet to drink, (^uite a number
of the party are asking to see and each seeking to prove that this pudding was the best rice pudding of
many eaten at Fort Conger or ever eaten. It is, of course, the effects of hunger. Day cloudy and winily.
Straits look as if they were ojjcn, judging from the water-clouds. I ate to-morrow morning's and Monday
morning's allowance of butter tonight. We had a double allowance of cloudberries to-day. The best part
of the day, a hot rum punch, is yet to come. The dinner to-day, which we had in lieu of oysters, turkey,
vegetables, |)ies, cakes, and all the delicacies of the day in civilization, consisted of about 7 ounces of meat,
7 ounces of bread, and about two ounces of rice per man. We kept up our committee [conversationj on this
small dole of food from about noon when the cloudberries were issued, to about 10 p. m. when we had the
chocolate. Kept up a continuous talk all this time on little else than the subject of food. Then we had the
rum punch, v hich proved very good indeed, and a few songs. About midnight most of the party were asleep.
Had cold feet all day until the evening. How often, oh! how often my thoughts have wandered home
to the dear ones there.

Nin'cmbcr 2P' — Noon thermometer, +3 [— iC.i° C] ; (mean memorandum) [minimumj,— 5[— 20.6° C.J.
Day cloudy, with snow falling and drifting. Breakfast about 7.30. We all feel quite well after our feast
of yesterday. Israel alone is a little out of sorts. Leaking inside here to-day. Am very much annoyed by
cold feet. It seems to be due to bad circulation, owing, I suppose, to the small ration.
^ Memorandum : Tn-roii/aiUs of ham, chicken, &c. How often I picture to myself the old, familiar

scenes of home! How I long to know that all are well, and trust their anxiety for me is not too great. I
jiicture to myself where my sisters are living, and the family scenes and conversation at the old roof-tree in
the evening.

Decembir i {Siitunitty), — Breakfast of tomato soup; very good. Noon thermometer, — 6 | — 21,10 (",J ;
(mean memorandum) [minimumj, —7 [ — 21.7° C.J. It h.isbeen drip|)ing all day in the hut. Thermometer
generally stands about freezing-point [0.0° C). Thanksgiving cooking and the high rise in the temperature
has produced a very disagreeable drip. Was kept awake last night, ofiand on all night, by cold feet. My
feet and hands seem to alternate in suffering from coKI. This evening we hail English beef and two dog-
biscuit each. These jireserved meats are thawed out in the cans by being put in the sleeping-bags, and then
H. Mis. 393 20

\ ■

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!•'!

402

THE LADY FBANKLIX BAY EXPEDITION.

divided without any cooking. I hash up my meat fine, and also the dog-biscuit, and keep them until I get
my tea, and then pour some tea on this hash, or whatever it might be called. We try all sorts of expedients
to make our little dole of food feel more satisfactory, but one feels hungry all the time — nothing can prevent
it. In the morning we have a good stew of the bread, with a little blubber scraps and a few raisins in it.
Blowing very hard to-night from an unusual direction — the east. Snow drifting very fiercely against the
house. Conversation during the uay on the subject of eating. This is the usual subject, varied by discus-
sions on farming and other occupations, which the men, or some of them, intend to adopt on their return to
America. Linn is to be a farmer; also Ellis. Jewell is going into the fancy grocery business. Long is going
to keep a restaurant at Ann Harbor [Arbor], and Frederick is going to set up' a saloon at Minneapolis.
Last night I told the narrative of my farming experience. It excited much interest, and every one thinks
there is a bonanza in the farm. To-night Bender is giving a general descri|)tion of Germany.

December 2. — The storm from the east last night continued until noon to-day, blowing with great
violence during the night, and occasioned some uneasiness. The entrance to the house was entirely snowed
up, and several hours' work were necessary to-day to dig us out. The west side of the house became heavily
banked with drifted snow. On the east side a good deal of snow was blown off. I am to eat a cold roast
turkey with Linn down at the farm on my return — turkey to be stuffed with oysters and eaten with cran-
berries. With Ralston, some hot hoe-cakes. With Ellis, spare-ribs. With Long, pork steaks. With
Biederbick, "buffers," old regiment dish. With my other neighbor, Connell, I am to eat Irish stew. Connell
is to cook this himself. With Bender, a roast sucking pig. With Schneider, tenderloin. With Brainard,
peaches and cream. With Frederick, a black cake, to be cooked by one of my sisters, with preserves. With
Salor, veal cutlets and lettuce salad. With Whisler, flap-jacks, with molasses. With Jewell, roast oysters,
on toast. With Rice, clam chowder. With Israel, hashed-up liver. With Gardiner, Virginia Indian pone
(hotj. With Elison, Vienna sausage. With Dr. Pavy, pate defois gnis. With Henry, Hamburg beefsteak.
With Kishngbury, hashed-up turkey, chicken, and veal. With Lieutenant Greely, Parker House rolls and
cofTee, cheese, omelet, chicken curry, and rice, and preserved strawberries. The Parker House rolls are
to be baked at his house, and I am to furnish the preserved strawberries. For supper to-night we had seal
stew ; very filling.

Memorandum: Charlotte russe.

With Cross, I am to eat Welsh rarebit, with eggnog and black cake.

December ^. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.32 [744.71"""]. Breakfast this morning consisted of chocolate and
I ^ ounces butter — no bread, for I ate all my bread last night. Many of us eat all our bread at night, and
many try to save and manipulate their dole of food in a dozen ways to make the mite of food seem more
filling. I have saved from yesterday some scraps of sealskin, and after Long was through I put the can
over the remnants of the fire for a few minutes and the scraps became quite soft. I ate them hair and all.
This skin has little on it but the hair, the blubber and meat being cut off as clean as possible. Last night
Bender finished his travels in Germany as a journeyman tinsmith. It w.is ((uite interesting; it kept us awake
until 10 o'clock. Today the canvas of the vestibule at the door was put back and the effects of the late
storm removed as well as possible. I was out about fifteen minutes pickmg up pieces of wood scattered by
the wind. It is now very dark. Our small rations make it very difficult to remain out even a few minutes
without suffering much from cold hands and feet, &c. We all look forward now to Christmas, and count
the days to the winter solstice — the darkest day of this dreadful winter. Had a bad nightmare last night,
caused by getting the air m the bag cut off, so that I coukl hardly breathe. Remarks on the States by
Lieutenant Greely each morning now. After he gets through, the state is generally spoken of by those
of the party who know anything. We are now on New York State.

Memorandum : Potato cake.

December 4. — It has been blowing strong from the west to-day, and very few of us have been out. I
have suffered from cold feet to-day; found it impossible to keep them warm. It makes this miserable life
still more miserable. What would I not give to be away from here — anywhere away from here — anywhere
out of the darkness and cold, where there is plenty of food to eat. Have been in low spirits during the
day. At times it seems impossible that we can get through such an existence. If we entirely escape scurvy
during the winter, as we have so far, I shall always regard it as something almost miraculous. This evening
the spirits of the party seem higher, and we have indulged in some singing — singing is something rather rare
with us. Thermometer to-day outside, —8 (—22.2° C.]. We have mentioned every vegetable, meat, fruit,
and dishes of every kind until the subject is worn out, and yet still it forms the staple subject of conversatiotl.

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

403

Our minds dwell continually on food. Our rations, commencing Thursday (for seven days), issued to-day,
consist of two cans of English beef (4 pounds each), two cans of soup, two cans of peas, two cans of cofiee,
three of chocolate, one can and four ounces of corned beef, and half a can of milk. Besides this, hard
bread and a little blubber. Besides this we have some rice, &c., to be issued to-morrow.

December 5. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.55 fTSo-S^'""']' Violent storm from the east during the night. It
blew with great violence and threatened the destruction of our hut. Early this morning it changed and
blew from the west, and continued until afternoon. Vestibule and commissary storehouse filled with snow.
House is now well banked up by the action of these storms. The straits must be undoubtedly open. Got
very little sleep last night, as well as r;ight before, on account of cold feet. To-day my feet have been
warm, much to my joy. Cloudberries issued to-day. Lime-juice is issued twice a week, and cloudberries
once. No one out to day excepting a very few. Reading last night of the Bible, [Army] Regulations, and
Pickwick. My dress now consists of blouse, double blanket vest, leather vest and five flannel shirts, and
three pairs of drawers. Thermometer rose to-day [to] about +4 [ — 15.6° C.].

December 6. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.53 [750.05"""]. Thank God! another day has passed. Had nice
warm feet last night, but to-day about noon the circulation left tl-.em, anil since then I have been miserable.
Life in the most miserable " dug-out " in the West seems a paradise in comparison with this life. Ther-
mometer fell today to — i o [—23.3° C.]. We have had a severe west wind during the day. Very few of us
out — the cooks, Ralston and Ellis, and a few others have been the only ones. Most of us take no exercise
to speak of during the day. Nature calls us out, but at long intervals — of some as long as two weeks at a
time. Pennsylvania was the siibject of discourse this afternoon, and since then food, dishes, and restaurants
have been the chief subjects of conversation. We still get water out of the lake, but have more or less
trouble with the hole now. Open water is rejjorted close to the shore now, and the straits are open beyond
all doubt. We have frequent speculations about food on the other side and party every tlay, and their
probable movements in the spring. Would to God the spring was come. We look forward no to Sunday
morning bread pudding, or " son-of-a-gun ". Next week we are to have, on Wednesday, three and a quarter
ounces of bacon. Next comes our Christmas "feast". We have frequent discussions as to Fort Conger,
dishes, &c. Schneider reads our bills of fare over, corresponding to these months. My dinner or supper
to-day consisted of corned beef, hard bread, and tea. The bread and meat I cut uj) finely. Put gunpowder
on, and when I get my tea pour considerable of it on them, which makes a warm hash and soaks the hard
bread. After this I drink my tea. A can of hard bread was found here, and we use it extensively instead
of salt, of which we have a little. Israel reports to-night the wind is blowing about 25 miles an hour [about
11"' per second]. A fox shot to-day weighing three pounds — a blue fox.

December T. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.55 [7S°'S6"""]' Noon thermometer, —21 [ — 29.4° C.]. Wind
died away about noon until it nearly stopped. We had consider.ablc trouble getting water to-day. The
hole was dug ouf until it was between 3 and 4 feet deep [about i"'], but it was not until about •^ p. m. that
we got water. At one time it looked as if the water for supper would have to be made from ice. A fox
was heard last night on the roof, but we did not get him. Two or three are known to be around.

Memorandum: Pumpkin butter. Model Coffee House, Philadelphia, established by Quakers. Fisk and
Gould Cafes, New York, Chatham street. Litde Pacific House, Chicago. All of these are cheap eating
places, where you can get food, vegetables, &c., at 5 cents a dish. Tenderloin cooked between two ordinary
beefsteaks recommended as particularly good. Curry paste and chickens.

We had to-night a very good stew, or soup moie j)roperly s[)eaking, of seal. Breakfast consisted of coffee,
bread, and butter. Elison gets along much better than expectecL There is a chance of his pulling through.
Reading last night of Bible, Pickwkk, and History of our Own Times. Talk all day mostly about res-
taurants and dishes of various kinds.

December 8. — 7 a.m., barometer 29.80 [756.91"'"']. Noon thermometer, —24 [-31.1° C.]. .\bout
this time temperature inside +29 [ — 1.7° C] by thermometer two and half feet [.75"'] from the fire, and by
another thermometer, about five feet [1.5'"], high hung on the gunwale of the boat, [nearly over the cooking
stove] -I-31 [— o.6°C.]. Suffered from cold feet all day until supper time. This constant misery from cold
feet is worse in some respects than the cokl. Breakfast this morning, soup of peas, &c. To-night we had
two dog-biscuit and a mouthful of English beef I ate my bread and meat together, and then waited for the
tea. Of late have generally kept my bread and meat until the tea was ready, but no expedients make much
difference. There is never enough. Bill of fare these seven days same as last week. Our issue week com-
mences on Thursday. Roar from the moving ice in the straits quite loud to-day. We do not like to hear it.

taa

!■■■

;^!

404

THE LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

[Lieutenant Grcely talked on] Pennsylvania this afternoon. Fine " son-of-a-gun " in the morning. We have
been looking forward to it all the week. Both messes cook now on one stove, alternating each morning.
Smoke in great quantities every day. We have frequent discussions and hot arguments as to what stews,
&c., are the best; also frequent arguments as to our fare at Fort Conger, and what we liked there.

Memorandum: Hulled corn. I mentioned to-day the hot cakes eaten at dinner with sugar and wine.
It seems a new dish to every one.

All the well ones of the party except Lieutenant Greely, who does no work and goes out only when
absolutely necessary, went out to-day and did some work on the vestibule, digging out, &c. A can of alcohol
was unfortunately struck with a pick and about one pound lost.

December 9. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.90 [759.45"'"']. Fine "son-ofa-gun" for breakfast, to which we
looked forward all the week past. Thermometer at noon, —19 [ — 28.3° C.]. Four foxes were shot last
night, two by Brainard and two by Long. Weight, 2 pounds 10, 3 pounds, 3 pounds 2, and 4 pounds 10.
This means dressed. We have felt better satisfied to-day than for a long time.

Memorandum : Fig pie.

Rum and a quarter of a lemon to each one as usual. Talk to-day much the same as usual, mostly about
food. I have been in the sleeping bag all day — feet alternately cold and warm, but moderately warm. The
foxes shot of late have generally been heard on the roof of our hut overhead, thus giving warning of their
presence. We feel confident of getting a bear yet. I managed to save half my bread stew this morning, and
kept it till this evening and ate it with my lemon. I feel particularly filled tonight. This bread stew, as thus
eaten, contained blubber, raisins, and lemon — a terrible mixture for any one but a man on (juarter rations in the
Arctic. Three of the foxes shot last night were blue and the other half blue and half white. How often my
thoughts wander home to the family scenes there — my thoughts, I must confess, are generally accompanied
by thoughts of the table. In fact I can think of nothing but eating. For breakfast we have bread, butter,
and chocolate. The bread I have mostly eaten— all but three small pieces. The butter I put in the choco-
late. Frederick gave his railroad and other experiences last night. To-night Rice gives reminiscences of a
trip to the West Indies, and also to the Newfoundland fisheries.

December 10 (Monday). — Temperature, —27 [ — 32.8° C.]. Strong westerly gale blowing pretty much
all day, with drifting snow; very severe. It was my turn, and I went out at 4 o'clock ami cut out the water
hole. Saw a blue fox. This is blue Monday. Breakfast: bread, butter, and chocolate. Supper: English
beef and tea. Lieutenant Greely and Rice have agreed to [alternately] give each other all their Sunday
morning bread stews next Sunday and the one following. One will give that [go without] and the other
have double allowance.

Memorandum : Guava jelly, pineapple. Raw meat and onions minced and eaten together. Mashed-
potato cakes, fried, with a layer of sausage between and a poached egg served on top of each.

We drink our tea without sugar or milk. I have now gotten quite used to it. The tobacco of many
of the parly is gone, and they are miserable. Maryland was the subject of remark this morning. I made
a few remarks. The messes still cook in turn. We count the days to December 21 and ('hristmas. I
have moderately warm feet to-day for a wonder. Slept through last night without getting up. Generally
wake up several times, and have to get up two or three times during the night. Another day gone, thank
God ! Oh ! for the time when we shall have all we can eat, and have light and health.

Memorandum: Parker House rolls.

December 11. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.88 [758.94""']. Thermometer at noon, —20 [ — 28.9" C.].

Memorandum: Vienna sausage at Vienna Cafe, New York. Stuffed pancakes.

Clear and calm to-day, mostly. Canvas roof of vestibule put on which was blown off lately by the
storm. Most of the party went out to help a few minutes. I passed a miserable night last night, having
cold, icy feet all night; thought they would freeze. Got no sleep until just before breakfast this morning.
Did not go out to-day. Supper to-night of Proteus bread and 3^ ounces English cooked bacon. I
minced up my bread and bacon and poured some tea on it, but it got cold before I was ready to eat.
Experienced a sense of dissatisfaction. Oh! bow glad I shall be when no longer necessary to try to cheat
my stomach in this w-iy. A few issues only of this Proteus bread left. After that we have only American
hard bread and the English. Breakfast hours continue as usual. Fire lighted at 6 a. m. for breakfast and
2.30 p. m. for supper. It smokes now less than formerly. We count the days until the solstice, Christmas
and New Year. The time passes fast. Biederbick says that the line of demarkation in Elison's hands and

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

405

feet is now quite plain. In the former it is just below the ankle anil in the latter through the fingers.
Elison seems in good spirits, however. I try all kinds of expedients to keep my feet warm, but almost
without any success. It is thought water may last until February.

Dectmbcr 12. — 7 a. m., barometer 30.00 [76 1.99"""].

Memorandum : Hot porter with nutmeg and sugar.

Fine day with bright moonlight, calm and clear. Thermometer — 25 [—31.7° C.J. I went out in the
afternoon and worked a few minutes, doing some work on the vestibule, which is now about finished. Find
myself very weak. I have concluded it best to eat all my bread and cold meat when first dealt out, which
is generally half hour or more before we get our tea. The two messes alternate in cooking first. Oh! this
wretched existence, where a few crumbs of bread are as highly prized as the most delicious delicacies. For
breakfast this morning we had ox-tail soup and rice ; and for supper, Bjiglish beef, cold, and hard bread. I
have saved two small pieces of my bread for breakfast in the morning. We lie in our sleeping-bags pretty
much all the time. There is no room in the alley-way, it being occupied by the cooks and by Cross, who
daily saws and splits wood for the stove. Only nine more days to the solstice. It is wonderful that we all
remain in such good health. To-morrow commences issue week. For our thirteen men we get two cans
of coffee, two of chocolate, two of English beef, one of soup, one of butter, one of tomatoes, one of green
corn, one can corned beef, and one can milk. Some of these are slightly in excess of the ration, and a small
fraction has to be carried over. Vice versa, a small fraction is still due to some. The English beef cans
contain (or are supposed to) 4 pounds each. Milk, one pound; corned beef, two pounds; soup, two and a
half; tomatoes, the same ; green corn, 25 ounces; 16 ounces of the last are allowed only. Onecan (25 oz.)
extract meat are allowed for three weeks.

December 13. — 7 a. m., baiometer 29.80 I756.91"""]. Thermometer, about noon, —23 [ — 30.6° C.].

Memorandum: Cranberry jelly.

Last night I ate two fox paws raw. They are little else than bone, but I chewed up the bone and every-
thing raw. In the evening, after supper, the other mess had something to say about their cook, Frederick.
The doctor, Henry, Whisler, Cross, Bender, Connell, and Sclineider testify to having seen several things
which looked very suspicious, all looking towards favoritism towards Hrainard or towards Frederick, gettitig
himself more of the stew, &c., than his share. It seemed the matter had been talked over before privately
among themselves, but nothing said publicly up to this time. Among other things, a Proteui biscuit fell out
of Fredei ick's pocket, some days ago, when he drew out his watch to look at the time. On another
occasion, the stew of seal meat helped to Brainard was heavier than any of the rest received. After those
mentioned had related the facts, Frederick made an explanation which was generally thought to be ipiite
satisfactory, and so the matter stands. Frederick still goes on cooking. To-day we have had a good deal
of wind. Breakfast this morning of ox-tail soup ; supper of corned beef and tea. Nobody out to-day but
the cooks, and a few of the men who went out called by nature. Some have not been out for certain
purposes since fifteen days. We have reading every night generally — Pickwick, McCarthy, Bible, &c.
Sometimes the blubber lamp is blown out about 7.30, and sometimes we manage to keep awake, often up
until 9 o'clock. Brainard is to come to supper at my home, on reaching Washington, and I have promised
him sally- lunn, stewed oysters, smearcase, slip, and preserved strawberries with cake. After supper a smoke,
and then wine and cake, and some singing by Mary Murray. I have invited Frederick and Long to come
to the house and eat some preserved strawberries and black cake.

December 14. — 7 a. m,, barometer 29.91 [759.70"""]. Thermometer at noon, —17 [—27.2° C.]. Fred-
erik, Eskimo, shot a white fox this afternoon ; weight, 4j^ pounds. This gives usafox forthe whole party each
week until the last week in February. North Carolina formed the subject of discussion during the forenoon to-
day. Many of the men are getting out of tobacco, and smoke tea leaves and the bark of the birch. The
other mess had a growl tonight about their soup — got it cold, they said. Bender, as usual, had the most
to say, and made it unpleasant for us all for half hour or so. We count the days from one Sunday to
anoth.r, and to solstice and Christmas.

Memorandum : Leaf dough biscuit (same principle as the pie crust eaten hot at home).

December 15. — 7 a. m., barometer 30.12 [765.03"'"']. Noon thermometer, —17 [—27.20 C.]. Day
clear and calm ; we still have the moon. There is a great difference in the amount of light between here
and Fort Conger. We had considerable trouble to-day with the water hole, and it was three o'clock before
the fire was lighted for supper. Those who go out to work now are all but Lieutenant Greely, the doctor,
Israel, Henry, Elison, Cross, Biederbick. Cross saws the wood in the house here, and Biederbick has a sore
finger. The cooks are fully employed otherwise.

i I

406

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Memorandum : Bootees opposite Atlantic House, St. John's, S5 ; same as those advertised in the Manu-
facturing Journal. Pickled eggs (hard boiled).

Breakfast this morning : stew (or soup rather, for we call them all stews) of tomatoes and rice. It
consisted of the usual amount of English beef, cold, and of dog biscuit one and a half ounces e.ich. We
look forward to to-morrow for the "son-of-a-gun" with great interest. We watch the operations of the cooks
with great interest. North Carolina was dealt with this morning. Gardiner made some interesting remarks
on the pliintation life there, &c. Our most const.ant subject of conversation is food of all kinds. We have
exhausted the subject, but it assumes new phases every day. Sewed a piece of blanket to my sleeping-bag
as a flap. Sewing is here a severe ordeal. Cold, darkness, and all sorts of obstacles to overcome. I have
not been out to-day.

December 16. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.82 [757.41""']. Noon thermometer, —21 [—294° C.]. Heavy
wind last night, which continued until sometime to-day. This morning we had a fine bread stew " son-of-
a-gun," hard bread, raisins, blubber, and lemon, a mere taste of everything, however, but bread. I bor-
rowed a dog-biscuit from Biederbick last night, and adding it to this morning's allowance of bread, or rather
what was left since last night, was enabled to save part of the bread pudding until to-night. To-night we
had a fine seal and fox stew or soup. I feel better satisfied than I have for two months, hardly excepting
Thanksgiving. I feel indeed somewhat uncomfortable. Our stomachs, I suppose, have contracted under
the small allowance, and I am satisfied an ordinary meal would make us feel badly. It is a noticeable fact
that the conversation slackens after these " full " meals. More is said after these sparse ones. It is only on
such occasions as the present that my mind reverts for any length of time to anything but food. Five days
more to the top of the hill. Thank God !

December 17. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.42 [747.25"""]; thermometer, — 13 [—25.0° C.]. A fox has been
seen near the house several times, but is very wary. However, we expect to have him yet.

Memorandum : Castle Garden for good servants. Hog's m.irrow eaten on bread with pepper and salt.

This is blue Monday. The tobacco of several is gone and they are in misery. Tea leaves and birch
bark are used by some. I am pinching myself to make mine go as far as possible. Last night Lieutenant
Greely and Rice had some unpleasant conversation, brought about by the discussion of the relative merits
of Indian corn pone. The other mess now have one of their number to hand around the food after the
cook has divided it and put it in the plates. We place implicit confidence in Long. Got my feet nice and
warm last night by sitting on the stone on which the fire is built. Last night we kept awake until 10 o'clock.
I have invited Rice, Brainard, Jewell, and Linn to go down to the farm, see it, and spend the night in the
kitchen on the farm, and, by the light of an open wood fire eat some roast oysters, peaches, and cream, &c.
My pictures seem to give great pleasure. My feet were nice and warm all day yesterday, and last night I
slept through for the second time without waking up. I generally wake up a number of times, and have to
get up to use my can three or five times or more, all the effect of the cold. It is singular how provoked
now I feel at any dish I have had the chance of eating in civilization and have neglected. The roof and
walls of the house are all now heavily coated with frost.

December li, — Thermometer at noon, —17 [ — 27.2° C.]. The day has seemed to pass rapidly. We
had a stew of corn, &c., for breakfast and fine seal stew for supper. Talk all day about food — what cakes,
preserves, and various dishes we prefer.

Memorandum : Suit of Scotch tweed at Halifax can probably be purchased for about $18. Try oranges
and pineapple cut up together and eaten with grated cocoanut.

Fine clear night this evening; calm. My thoughts are constantly on food, and my mind dwells con-
stantly on my childhood dishes at home. Oh ! my dear home and the dear ones there. Can it be possible
I shall some day see them again, and that these days of misery will pass away ? My dear father, is he still
alive? My dear mother and sisters, Harry, and my nieces and brothers-in-law. How often I think of them.
Only three days more to the top of the hill.

December If).— 1 a. m., barometer 29.85 [758.18° C.]. Stormy and windy to-day, blowing hard. The
thermometer this afternoon, — 2 1 [—29.4° C.]. I have been in rather low spirits to-day; yesterday my spirits
were pretty high; thus they alternate. This unsatisfactory English beef for supper. I ate it just as it came.
Cloudberries about i o'clock, meat about 1.30, and bread about 2 o'clock, tea about half-past 2. I always eat
my bread regretfully. If I eat it before tea, I regret that I did not keep it, and if I wait until tea comes and
then eat it, I drink my tea rather hastily and do not get the satisfaction out of the cold bread and meat I

TBE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

407

otherwise would. What .1 miserable life, where a few crumbs of bread weigh so on one's mind. It seems to
be so with all the rest. All sorts of expedients arc tried tocheat one's stomach, but with about the same result.
The issue week commences to-morrow. Provisions issued to-day: One can soup, two and a half pounds;
two cans corned beef; three cans coffee, 16 ounces each ; two cans chocolate, 12 ounces each ; one can milk;
one can of eggs, and one can of pease. Some of these cans are a little above and some a little below.
Thus this week we get an extra can of coffee. The conversation on food now often assumes an argumenta-
tive form. Dishes are almost exhausted. Thank God! day aiter to-morrow marks the increase of light.
The time seems to pass very fast, but does not equal our impatience. A good deal of trouble with the
water-hole to-day. The small hole at the bottom froze up, and was only opened by finding the ice-chisel,
which had been lost. Working in the storm was a great job. I did not go out. I feel an apathy and
cloudiness almost impossible to shake off. We are all very weak. Clouiil)erries come on Wednesdays
only, rum on Sundays; lime-juice issued twice a week. It is a great difficulty we have every night to know
just hdw much hard bread to save for breakfast the next Qiorning — hunger to-night forces hunger to-morrow
morning. The cooks use more or less salt water every day.

December 20. — 7.30 a.m., barometer 29.80 [756.91"'"'); noon thermometer, —25 [—31.7° C.]. Calm,
clear day. A good deal of talking going on, and every one apparently in pretty good spirits. Alabama
and Tennessee remarked on this morning by Lieutenant Greely. These remarks are generally supplemented
by any of the rest of us who know anything particular about the States. A fox was heard on the roof last
night several times, and two or three times Long went out, but without success. This afternoon Frederik,
Eskimo, shot a white fox — another one — weight, 4^ pounds. The straits arc apparently closed as far as we
can judge.

Memorandum : Metzworst sausage, blood pudding, doughnuts stuffed with preserves ; tart forms from
Vienna Cafe, New York, to be filled at home.

I have commenced mixing tea leaves with my tobacco to make it go farther. We now frequently
amuse ourselves in improvising dishes of different kinds. Reading last night of the Bible, Pickwick, &c.
In anything we read, any mention of food or dishes is always commented upon by some of us.

December 21. — 7 a. m., barometer 29.60 [751.83"'"']. The top of the hill — the most glorious day of
this dreary journey through the valley of cold and hunger — has at last come, and now nearly gone.
Thank God, now the glorious sun commenced to return, and every day gets lighter and brings him nearer.
It is an augury that we shall yet pull through all right. Exchanged bags with Jewell during the afternoon,
and paid Lieutenant Greely and his neighbors a visit. Had a good fox stew this evening. By a great
effort was able to save one ounce of my bread and about two ounces of butter for Christmas. I shall make
a vigorous effort to abstain from eating it before then. Put it in charge of Biciierbick as an additional safe-
guard. Brainard shot another fox last night, a blue one. We now have a fox for every week up to the end
of February and an extra one for Christmas. This makes the twentieth fox killed. Louisiana spoken of
to-day. I added to it by recounting my trip from Baltimore to Texas, and then on return to New Orleans
and up to Cincinnati.

December 22.— 7.10, barometer 29.80 [756.91"'"'] ; thermometer, 29 [—29] [—33.9° C.]. Calm and clear.
I was out to-day to cut out water-hole ; worked on it some time and finally was helped by Connell. Found
myself very weak, and could hardly lift the water I brought in.

Memorandum : Citron preserves.

Fox seen to-day, but not shot. The Eskimo got a small piece of tobacco on [for the] shooting of each
fox. I am now smoking tea leaves mixed with my tobacco. It is now very dark, but not so dark as at Fort
Conger. We look forward to to-morrow and Christmas. I had no bread this morning, and only one dog-
biscuit to-night (one and one-half ounces). I offered to give any one a roast turkey on reaching home for
a single dog-biscuit now, but found no takers.

December 2^. — Barometer, 29.85 [758.18™"]; thermometer, — 24[— 3i.i''C.]. Have had clear, calm day
till this evening, when it has commenced blowing. Connell's turn to open the water-hole. He went out, but
did not succeed. Several otliers went in turn until every one but the invalids had been out. When Whisler
went out he managed to get the ice-chisel stuck in the lower part of the hole, so that before continuing the
work it was necessary to get it out. Supper time passed and it was necessary to cook with ice. We had
only about half a cup of tea, though a good fox stew, a great deal of smoke, and every one felt miserable.
Latter part of the day has been wretched. It is quite an ordeal to go out in the cold. One invariably
gets cold hands and feet, and it is difficult to get warm again. Good stew for supper. I saved nearly all

i 1

408

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

my hard bread for Christmas, though I need it sorely. Mreakfast this morning for me consisted of the
" son-of-a-gun " only, but it was very thick— the proportion as large as lo ounces, including seal blubber,
raisins, iVc. I hope very much we are not to lose our fresh water. It will be a sad loss and necessitate a
reduction of our hot drinks and the few soups we have hot. I hope Christmas will be better than to-day.
Our requests wander homeward to the roast turkeys, mince pies, doughnuts, iV:c. I ottered to give any one
a roast turkey on my return for a single di)g biscuit, but could get no takers. A fjx has been seen around
to-day, but could not be shot. Uy a tremendous effort I managed to go without rum to-day, in order to
have it on Christmas. I shall then have it in addition to the punch. Oh ! this ilreary life. How often
my thoughts wander homeward to the tlear ones there.

Memorandum : Pumpkin butter.

December 2^. — HarometL-r, 29.72 [754.87"'"']; thermometer, —24 [—31.1° C.]. Water-hole not opentd
until about 9 o'clock, when Kislingbury and Urainard finally succeeded in bringing water after a long sjjell
by Kllis. KIlis came in and fainted from the effe( ts of the cold and exposure. It took almost double amount
of fuel to cook our sujiper last night. The trouble with the water-hole seemed to throw a damper over the
party and all were ijuite tired. By a great effort I man.iged to save my bre.-id and my Sunday rum ; also
nty piece of lemon. So my breakfast this morning consisted of nothing but coft'ee, without anything else.
Kvery one seemed ijuite tired tluring the day and there has been little conversation until this evening, when
we commenced to talk of what is going on at home. 1 re.ad over the bills of fare of the birthdays of the
party this evening. My supper consisted of tea, Isnglish beef, and a few small pieces of bread. I put by
half of my bread for to-nmrrow, for I am determined to have a good day's allowance to-morrow. I
made a little hash to-night of my bread and meat. Added salt water and gunpowder, and got Long to warm
it on the top of the top funnel. To-night is t!liristmas F.ve, and my thoughts are turned towards home.
God ])reserve me to see this day next year, and enjoy it at home with those I love. To-morrow is to be
pretty much a repetition of Thanksgiving. I have saved up my bread and rum. To-day has been clear
and tolembly calm. I think of the children at home, the Christmas tree to-night, and the toys, &c. But
my fingers are too cold to write more; and I have the extra lamp, and cannot burn it long on an ount of
our short allowance of blubber. Kvery spoonful of blubber oil used is so much off our food. I picture to
myself my dear father and mother, sister>, Harry, my nieces and brothers-in-law, all sitting around the table
to-morrow. Turkeys and mince jjies are strewn [strewed] on the table. Many thoughts are turned towards
me, and where I am at this moment.

December 25. — Barometer, 29.93 [760.21'""']; thermometer —35. 5 [—37-5° C.].

Christmas. We have all been talking and waiting anxiously for the hour, and now it is here, and (5 |). m.)
nearly gone. Breakfast consisted of the soup of pease and carrots, with a little blubber and some spoon-
fuls of potatoes. This we had at six o'clock. Cloudberries served out (two cans to each mess). At 1.30
]). m. Long lighted up for the event of the day — dinner. Dinner consisted of a fine, rich, thick stew of all
seal meat, with onions, a little blubber, potatoes, and bread crumbs. After this we had, in the course of an
hour or so, a fine, rich stew with raisins, a little blubber and milk. These were pretty much the same as
Thanksgiving, but the cooks made a great deal that day, and the meals seemed better. The cooks are now
preparing some fine chocolate, and that will be followed by a jjunch of one gill of rum to each man. The
party have been in fine spirits to-day. Cheers were given after breakfast for Lieutenant Greely, Corporal
[Sergeant] Elison, Rice, and the two cooks. It was agreed that we should give each of the two Eskimos
fifty cents from each member of the expedition, to be kejit for them till next Christmas.

December 26. — 5 j). m. Yesterday has passed, but I find my notes of yesterday very imperfect. The day
was a great success. We all had enough, or nearly enough. I had about eight ounces extra, which I had
saved up, about one ounce of butter besides, and the rum of the Sunday before. It was agreed early in the
morning that nothing shouUl be said to mar the ple.xsures of the day. Many kindly thoughts were expressed
for those at home, and oh ! how often we spoke of what w.-is going on at our several homes. Many of the
party gave the bill of fare at their homes. Of course, I did not forget to mention roast turkey, cranberries,
and mince pics. Reminiscences of home. Invitations to future Christmases — arrangements for future
Christmas meetings — jjaleocrystic, and to the Ann Harbor [Arbor] Hotel. The reading of the records.
Some songs in all languages, including French, Cierman, Danish, and Greenland. The birthday bills of fare
were read by me. Six pounds rice, three pounds milk, two pounds coffee, two and a quarter chocolate,
five pounds raisins, twelve and a half lemons, twelve and a half pounds bread, six and a half pounds bread
toast in the stews, two pounds lard, three ])ounds blubber, eight pounds cloudberries, one pound sugar, 25

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY KXPKDITION.

409

ounces carrots, 50 ounces jicase, 6 ounces extract of beef, 1 j 10 14 ounces seal meat, 4 ounces of rum to each
man — somewhere alK)ut 36 ounces of soliti food to each man. The supply in the morning was pretty nuich
as usual, but the seal stew was voted by all as delicious and extremely satisfactory. I'he ri( e was the same,
and many were the praises given to each. The punch was extremely fme. Chocolate about 7 o'l lock,
and by this time most of us were too full for utterance, and the conversation gradually slackened oH', and
with the songs the day ended.

To-day, thermometer —34.8 [ — 37.1" C.]. We have all been feeling extremely well all day, nice anti
warm and comfortable in the extreme. Several of us ate loo muth yesterday, but only so nun h as to feci
a little uncomfortable, but we all slept well. The cooking was a great ordeal to the cooks, on account of
the smoke, there being very little wind, but the cooks were given an extra half-gill of rum. They diil nobly.
Bender relieved Frederick to-day, his eyes hurting him a good deal. Our talk this morning was of home
and our families. Dr. I'avy, Rice, Israel, Hrainard, and others, expressed themselves of having lonceived a
very high idea of my father, from what they had heard from Lieutenant (Ircely and from me at ilifferent
times. I have invited them to come to the house particularly. 1 have extended a general invitation to all
the members of the expedition. I spoke this morning of the reunions of my family, and how enjoyable they
were. The remarks about my father brought tears — the first time 1 have shed tears in this country, if 1 except
the occasion at Kskimo Point, when Rice returned with the (larlington records— the only lime, i spoke
also of my sisters and of Mary Murray, whose many virtues 1 eulogized highly. Breakfast this morning was
late, consisting of a soup made of seal blubber, which was very good. I did not feel very hungry. Supper
of English beef, &c. I had a few bread crumbs, salt water, and gunpowder, which Long warmed over
the lamj). We spoke a good deal to-day of the prospects of getting across the straits in the spring ; of Rice's
preliminary trip, of the chances of finding food there, itc. The day has been calm. We count on 240 ra-
tions as (juite certain, and the coal. Kislingbury was kind enough to make for each of the party a cigarette.
Many of us are now out of tobacco entirely, and have succumbed to the inevitable. A fox has been seen
around during the day, but our efforts to shoot him not successful sn far. The talk this evening is all about
food, desserts, &c.

December 27. — Thermometer, — 39.5 f — 39.7° C.]; barometer, 29.22 [742.17"""]. Calm and clear.
I exchanged places with Whisler during the forenoon — he occujiying my bag and I his. Had very cold
numb hands all the forenoon, but now the circulation .seems to have come back, though it has run out of
one of my feet. This coldness of the extremities is due evidently to the short rations, and .shows how food
is fuel in this country. Kentucky spoken of this morning. Jewell made some remarks in cf)nne( tion with
horse breeding in that State. Last night (lardincr commenced a book on American shipping, found in the
cache here. We gleaned from this that the Navy Board, ordered before we left, recommended the establish-
ment of a formidable navy, and that the President brought the same and the subject of American shipping
before Congress. It is singular how we thus pick up little strips of information. Rice read .some on Mc-
Carthy's book, and thus the evening w.is prolonged until g^i p. m. I have amended my breakfast or hnuh
with Lieutenant Greely. He is to send to California for the recipe of the Chinese way of making curry
and rice with chicken. This is to be substituted for the tenderloin steak. With Cross I am to eat Welsh
rarebit, black cake, and egg-nog. I am to take to his house the cake — he furnishes the other arti( les. We
count the days to New Year. Brainard shot a blue fox last night — weight 3 jiounds 2 ouni!es. He followed
the animal some time, but found him dead. This gives us an extra fox next Sunday. How impatiently
we watch the cook as he divides out the bread and meat, each one fearing he may get a little less than his
share. The other mess now have one of their number to put around the plates, but we still trust to Long.

December 28. — Barometer, 8 a. m., 30.00 [761.99"""]. Thermometer, —35 [—37.2° C ]. Calm day,
with light wind from the west. Nothing new. Rope brought in and cut up for fuel this evening.

Memorandum : Rice flour.

The house has been e.xceptionally quiet to-day, and most of the forenoon passed with pretty much
every one down in the bags — little or nothing said. No particular reason for this ijuiet. Breakfast this
morning of chocolate, bread, and butter. For supper we had fox stew, which our mess found very satis-
factory. The other mess found theirs unsatisfactory, for some reason or other, and a good many growls
came from that side. When we have these stews or soups eight pots arc boiled, four to each mess, two of
stew and two of tea, or whatever other drink it may be. The rope this evening made a very bad smoke,
extremely disagreeable. This evening a question about the fuel brought up the sum of the time it will last us.
It seems we have some sixteen hard wood barrels on hand. Several expressed the opinion that there was

410

TUB LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

lil

nothing to fear particularly on this score. Long said his experience in cooking with seal blubber showed it very
satisfactory; so that if we killed seal here, by which we can prolong our stay, the blubber will furnish fuel.
Lieutenant (ireely seemed obliged lo look on the dark side of the subject, and directed Sergeant Urainard
to issue 10 pounds of blubber for experiment on the subject. This is unfortunate, as it will diminish our
food by that much blubber. 'I"he water still holds out, but there is no knowing when we will have to melt
ice. 'i'he two messes alternate in cooking first. I am now eking out my tobacco with tea. To-day I found
two or three small pieces of raw fox— mere scraps on the floor — and, brushing the dampness off, ate them with
great satisfaction. Ohio dwelt upon to-day.

D((rml>er 29. — Barometer, 30.15 1765,80'""'], Thermometer, —31.5 |— 35.3° C.J.

Memorandum : Cold breast of veal stuffed. Got Rice's list of dishes.

Heavy blow from the west Ki.st night, but the wind went down to-day. To-day has been a market day,
every body trading rations, bread for butter, meat for bread, bre.id for soup, iVc. A great deal of talking done,
but not very many solid trades made. I traded about half of tomorrow morning's "sonofa-gun" for about
eight and a half ounces of bread — this was with Hiederbick and Salor. 'I'hen 1 gave Urainard about one
and one-half ounces of butter for two dog-biscuits (3 ounces). I do not believe in this trading, and do not
think I shall make any more. Michigan was dwelt upon to-day. 'I'here is now a perceptible difference
in the amount of light. Only two more days of this year, thank God! The rope burns very well. Got
through supper about 3.30 o'clock. Kislingbury protested to-day against the experiment ordered by Lieu-
tenant Grcely lo ascertain the amount of blubber necessary to cook our tea. 1 took occasion also lo
express my disajjproval. We do not know yet that the wood will not last through, and the experiment can
be as well made when the time comes as now. Cross's feet are worse, and Schneider sawed the wood today
and chopped it. Bender did the sawing and splitting yesterday.

Decemher 30. — Barometer, 30.00 [761.99"""]. Thermometer, —21 [ — 29.4° C.]. Last night's " market-
ing " was continued late into the night, and much impatience was expressed for this morning with its " son-of-a-
gun." Schneider with some one else struck up a bargain at 3 o'clock this morning.

Memorandum : Beef h la mode.

This morning came at last. Some had a good deal more than they could well eat with comfort, and some
had much less. The result of my bargaining was that I had something more than one third of my plate of
the "sonofa-gun," and one-fourth of my coffee; but then 1 had also about 12 ounces of bread and i ounce
of butter. I ate only four ounces of bread and have brought the rest over. This evening got issued
me about four ounces hard bread for the night and morning (the rest going in the fox stew), and this I have
not touched, finding the .stew sufficient. Thus I will have plenty for New Year's day. Biederbick had so
much " son-of-a-gun " as the result of his bargain that he overate himself, and is suffering from stomach ache.
1 saved to day's rum for to-morrow night, when I shall probably remain up to see the old year out. The
"son-of-a-gun" this morning was particularly fine, and the stew this evening equally so. Very little con-
versation, and but little to-day on the subject of eating. F'ull meals seem to have the effect of inducing
silence, the party lying down and enjoying comfortable repose. It is singular how warm and comfort.ible a
good meal makes one. Came on blowing to-day about noon, and a storm is now raging from the east.
The rope makes lots of smoke, but it is owing a good deal to the heat and the time occupied in cooking.
This morning the smoke was dense and blinding. This evening much belter, on account of the wind. I
am suffering with my eyes, which seem to have been affected by the smoke.

Memorandum: Cracked wheat with honey and milk.

December j,\. — Barometer, 30.02 [762.49"""]. Thermometer, —21 f — 29.4''C.]. Thermometer yesterday
morning at i o'clock inside the house, •+• 24 [ — 4.4° C. |. Storm raging all Lost night and all day to-day from the
east. This evening it seems to have stopped. About 10 a. m. it was discovered that the water hole was
frozen up, and a new hole nearer the .shore was commenced. We worked at the new hole from this time
until 4.15 p. m., when Brainard succeeded in striking water. It was very severe work. The wind blew in
gusts very hard. All the well ones went out except Lieutenant Greely. Those who did not go out were
Lieutenant Greely, Klison, Jewell, Gardiner, Henry, the Doctor, Biederbick, Crojss, Bender and Whisler,
and the two Eskimos; also the two cooks. The two cooks and the Eskimos and the doctor, and Biederbick,
do not take part in keeping open the wafer hole. Whisler was occupied in cutting up the wood. This
evening was fixed upon for trying the blubber to cook by, but it has been postponed. The water used by
the doctor for dressing the frost bites was warmed up to-day for the first time over the blubber lamp. This
might have been done right along. Instead about three ounces of alcohol per day have been used. Break-

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXPKDITION.

411

fast this morning consisted of ox-tail soup and supper of Englisii nic. My rum issued yesterday 1 will
drink to-night, as I want to sit up and see the old year out. Supper was delayed until about 5 oVloek liy
the work on the water hole. We all got cold feet by going out. My own became painfully cold, and are
still very cold. It is discomfort in the extreme. How glad we all are that the end of the year lias been
reached again can hardly be exi)ressed. Rice expects to start across about the end of January. We ha«l to
cut down through about four feet [i.im] of ice to reach water.

yiinutiry i, 1884 (Tuesday). — Daypassed in bag. Lieutenant Greely came over and paid mc a visit shortly
after breakfast. He told me that the doctor had made overtures with him to make allowance — [alliance] «le-
fensive and OiTensive [owing to] remarks some time ago — but lliat he had declined. He told me also that some
time ago he feli certain that the doctor was eating up, during the night. Corporal [Sergeant] Klison's allowance
of bread. Was within two and a half feet [.76'"] of the doctor at the time, and would swear to the fact before
a court. He thought it right *o mention the fact to Hrainard, but had said nothing to any one else about it.
That this, as well as former matters, he should make th-; subject of report to the projjer authorities on his
return, to pet upon as they chose. He told me that Klison's hands and feet were soporating [suppurating] fast,
and that the line of demarkation was becoming clearer ; that amputation would evidently have to be pe.
formed, but th.it nothing would be attempted here, but at Littleton Island. All this seems to have bi-en gained
mostly, or altogether, f;om Hiederbick. He [Lieutenant C'lreely] told me he would do all in his power t<i aid me
in getting a staff appointment on my return. That, if I desired, I could have three or four weeks on my return
nominally on duty, but with little or nothing to do particularly, at the Sign.al OITic.c, and that, if I desireil,
there would be no trouble in getting three or four months' leave of absence. Salor went out to-day and cut
out water hole without trouble. I ate to-day a good breakfast of rice and tomatoes with some bread. At
noon I ate three dog-biscuit with butter, and a little later we had cloudberries and rum anil lemon. Supper
consisted of tine seal meat stew. While eating this I had the misfortune to spill my bread, and in jiicking it
up spilled the bast drop of my tea. Very kindly. Lieutenant (Jreely, Long, and Hiederbick g.ive me a little, so
that the cupful was almost regained. Before I got my stew, Schneider offered me seven dog-biscuit and next
Sunday's scanty addition of the " son-of-a-gun " for my stew this evening, but afterwards changed his
mind. When Ellis perceived I had spilled my tea, he offered to trade me h.ilf a cupful, but as he took
advantage of my misfortune I declined. We have all been feeling remarkably high-spirited to-day on the
coming of the new year, and this evening all seem hopeful. We now speak fretpiently of going home this
ye.ar. We are all in high hopes. I go over to-night and take Jewell's place in Lieutenant Oreely's bag,
with the latter and Israel. The condition of the party is far superior to anything I expected, and the future
bids well to come out all right. How my thoughts wander homeward to the dear ones there ! Are they
thinking of me ?

yaniinry t. — Barometer, 30.63 [777.99"""]; thermometer, —28 [—333' C.|. After supper la.st night
I went over to Lieutenant Greely's bag and spent the night there, Jewell taking my jjlace here. My hea y
feast of food warmed me up like a stove and I slept well through the night, waking up only at 4 o'clock
this morning. I remained in the bag until some time in the afternoon, and then got up and cut open the
water-hole and emptied slop bucket. It was a fine morning, and I perceived considerably more light than
for some time past. Calm and clear. About noon I came back to my own bag. Jewell took a chew of
my tobacco, telling me of it, however. I did not like the thing very much. Michigan talked about this
morning. Lieutenant Kislingbury told us all about Detroit. The blubber lamp, a butter can, forms
the lamp. The issue week commences to-morrow; v.e get an issue of American bacon (raw) Monday
night. Issue supplies: 3 cans coffee, 2 chocolate, 2 English meat, i corn, i extract of beef, 2 cans jjcaac,
I can carrots, i can milk, 52 ounces bacon, 6j4 pounds fox, 3^ pounds seal, 72 oujjccs of dog-biscuit,
8 ounces rice, 14 ounces raisins, 38 ounces onions, 35 ounces potatoes, 13 ounces English f ',!;colate, 31
ounces tea, 91 ounces blubber. The marketing [bargaining] still goes on, though not [amoi lj , -iiny. I
do not like this thing. It resembles gambling, and I think the tendency is bad. In our hun^.r we are
apt to take advantage of the cravings of those about us. Some trade meat for bread. I have trade<l
as yet only what I did on Saturday and Sunday last. Our stew last night consisted of seal, fox, blubber,
potatoes, hard bre.id, and onions, and a half can sausage, and was very fine. The result of the experiment
to-day is that one pound of blubber will raise to the bo'ling-point two and a half gallons of water, and
leave one-eighth of its weight in cracklings. The tea boiled over and put the fire out after the first pot
was boiled. The first pot occupied forty minutes in boiling. Supper was cooked afterwards with the
wood. Soup this morning and English meat to-night. New water-hole started to-day, so as to be on the
safe side.

Si ,

'illi

412

TOE liADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

'J-ixiiiiary T,. — naromcter, 30.50 [774.69"""]; thermometer, —31 [— 35-0° C] about noon. Clear and
ralm. New moon Illinois discussed during the forenoon. Frederick had a good deal to say about
Chicago. Pea soup and tea for breakfast this morning. Pease, potatoes, onion powder, blubber. For
supper to-night, corned beef. I gave my bread for the night and morning, and also about one-third issue
of butter, for an extra four ounces of corned beef. I thus had half a pound of meat for supper. This
I got Long to warm up slightly on the stove. Felt a little disappointed that I did not eat it cold. I
gave Bender h.alf my butter, and promised him one of the two dog biscuits I got Saturday night for his pea
soup in the morning. Tlie issue of butter for the issue week made to-day. I have left about three-
([uarter ounces. Brainard shot at a fox this evening and drew the blood, but did not j^ct the animal.
Had very cold feet, which made me miserable all night. Since I have taken my half pound of meat
this evening my feet have become warm and comfortable.

yaniiivy 4 — Barometer, 30.10 [764.53""']; thermometer, —34 [ — 36.7° C.j. Day clear and pretty
good until this evening, when it is somewhat windy. New ice-hole was started yesterday, to be ready for
the present one closing up. Brainard reports that footsteps were found around the commissary leading up
to the west side, and a slight cut in the canvas of the roof. On further examination he found that a!)out a
(piartcr of a pound of bacon had been bitten off a piece which was at hand inside. As the bacon was all
right last night, the thing must have occurred to-day some time. New stove, or rather one of the two old
ones, started to-day. Eight minutes occupied this evening in boiling first pot of stew, and seven minutes
for the second pot. This is better than the old stove. This morning I enjoyed a fine jjca soup from the
other mess, and this evening we hau a particularly fine fox soup or stew. I have rather preferred the soups,
though only our canned soups are gener.iUy termed soujis. Several trades were made to-day. I traded
Sunday's "son-of-a-gun" with Jewell for two issues — 8 ounces — corned beef, which I [will] give him next
week, and in addition his allowance of bread to-night — about 4^3 ounces. Afterwards I agreed to give Fred-
erick, the cook, my "son-of-a-gun" the following Sunday for his this coming Sunday, and in addition I give
him one <log-l)iscuit. Connell bet on a shot made by Brainard at a fox to-day, and lost his Sunday's half
gill of rum thereby. We are all still in excellent spirits and good health, and look forward with much con-
fidence to getting home this coming summer. We count the days. I have pretty much made up my mind
to stop this trading. Lieutenant llreely read some geographical statistics this morning, which is all the
geography we have had to-day.

yaniiary 5. — Barometer, 29.60 [751.83"'"']; thermometer, —35 [ — 37.2° C.]. Breakfast this morning
ox-tail soup with rice; very good. My supper consisted of regular issue of English meat, one dog-biscuit,
and three small pieces of hard bread. We had tea at both meals. Brainard shot a black fox last night. I
won half a gill of rum from Connell on it. Three other foxes were seen during the day, and some fired at.
I w.as offered by Jewell about one-half of his "sonof-a-gun" to-morrow morning for the two half gills of
rum, but withdrew, objections made against the bargain by Lieutenant Greely. I have since swapped this
rum for Connell's butter issued next week— about 2>V\ ounces. Brainard found another slit in the canvas
covering the commissary storehouse. No trace as to who the thief is. To-morrow's "son-of-a-gun" I give
to Jewell for eight ounces of meat and 4 ounces of hard bread. Frederick gives me his "son-of-a-gun"
to-morrow morning and I give him mine the following Sunday. 'I'lie "son-of a-guns" are great favorites.
'I'here is now a decided sentiment against this trading, and many of us think of stopping off to-day. Elison
seems very hopeful. Wind is now blowing from the north. I was out to-diiy a little while down at the
new water-hole. One cold foot to-day, and to-night both are like ice, which promises a bad night's rest.

yanmiry 6. — Barometer, 29.40 [746.75'""']; thermometer, —24 [—31.1° C.]. Another day past and
another Sunday nearer Rice's departure and the end of this misery.

Memorandum: Pare pine-apple slices, covered with sugar, and a hole cut in the middle of each — then
replaced and the core filled with sugar, and port wine jioured in.

Long got too much s-ilt water in the "son-of-a-gun" this morning. I found Frederick's "son-of-a-gun"
very fine. Jewell ate two "son-of-a-guns" and made himself half sick. Several others stuffed themselves
without much more benefit. Day has passed rapidly, though I have been in somewhat low spirits. Con-
nell enjoyed my rum, but now it is all over and I have his butter to look forward to. There has been no
trading to-day, and the business is to be abandoned or will die a natural death. I do not think I shall do
any more. Fine soup or stew to-night of fox, bread, i\;c. I was able to save a good deal of bread for next
Sunday and to-morrow morning. The days draw near toward Rice's departure. We all sufier a good deal

THE LADY FRAXKLrX BAY EXPEDITION.

413

from cold feet, &c. To-night Rico, Brainard, and I are to read our hills of fare for the breakfast to be given
by Jewell. Day tolerably calm with the moon now shining. Conversation ai)oiit dishes somewhat slack
now and more given to our departure for Littleton Islaml and expected help.

Memorandum: Cream cakes, look like eggs.

Some of the jiarty do not go out for certain purposes for a week or more. Seventeen days has been
the longest thus far any one has gone without a passage.

Memorandum: Cranberry piL\

We now have a fox for the two messes, half to each, until the middle of February ; and un the last two
weeks, when we shall need more food, we shall have two foxes. 23 of these animals killeil to date. How
often I think of tiiosc at home. Oh, God! what a dream it secnis to think of seeing them once more. Oh!
my dear father, mother, and sisters. One lai.ip (blubber) burns constantly, and at times we have one or two
extra ones, as is needed.

yii/ii/a'y 7. — Harometer, ; thermometer, —31 [— 3S'0° tJ.]. Breakfast— soup of string beans^

eggs, and hard bread, with chocolate. Day somewhat windy from the west. SutTered with cold feet all day.
Bowels rather loose. Minnesota dwelt upon to-day by Lieutenant Greely, with some remarks made by
Kislingbury. Last night Biederbick kept us awake until 10^ by a very good description of home life in fon|
his father's farm in Walden. Supper this evening — raw American bacon, bread, and tea. The bacon eaten
cold and very much enjoyed by every one. Some warmed it up in their tea. Tiiis is the first issue of this
meat, which is to be continued on Mondays hereafter. This evening Brainard rc[)ortcd some more discov-
eries. Some one has left a second deposit in a can in the vestibule, as we call the passage way. Brainard
reports also that some one has taken a (piarter pound of bacon left in the stearine pot by the cook. The
loss will fall on their mess. Some one also scraped up the oil out of the blubber lamp. Some one has also
recently made a hole with an axe in a barrel of bread and taken about a pound or two. All these acts are
doubtless by the same individual, and many are the execrations called down on his head. This morning
Whisler, in endeavoring to carry out a tub of urine for Lsu.el, whose duty it was to do this as well as open
the water-hole, had the misfortune to stumble and spill half of the contents on the three-man bag that Brainard
and Frederick sleep in. This will not ilry and will increase the misery of their life during the rest of our
stay here. I have felt chilly and cold to-day and in low spirits. To-night Lieutenant (ireely is reading out
of his diary for 1883. Oh! how I long for the time when this life shall enil. Only those now leave the
house during the day who have to. Most of the party keep i>rctty well down in their bags, only getting up
at meals and a few other times. No trailing to-day. It is to be hoped it will die out. A great deal of frost
is now overhead. Brainard reports about 18 pounds of American bread frozen — not so much as he expected.
This can readily be used in the s'.ews.

yaiiuary 8. — Barometer, 29.05 [737.86"'"']; thermometer, — 28 [ — 2)2)-^ ^•J- ^--ilni during the morn-
ing, but about noon commenced blowing, and blew (juite strong from the west — still continuing. Breakfast —
pea soup, extract mutton, anil tea. The extract was tainted a good deal, but we ate it all the same. Dinner
consisted of a very thin seal stew, in which we were all much disa])pointed. That 1 got had liardly a bone
or piece of meat in it. The day has seemed very long. I have been cold and chilly all day, with very cold
hands and feet. Feel very much down at [inj the mouth. So it is always — sometmies my spirits are pretty
good, and sometimes very bad. I, however, went out to-day to work at the ice-hole, and dug away at the
old one, which shows signs of giving out. Slept poorly last night. Last night we had reailing — Regulations,
History of Our Own Times, and Koningsbee (?) fConingsby]. It kept us awake, mostly, until 10 o'clock.
Iowa was discussed this morning. There is a great abatement on the talk of food. Cold worries me now
more than hunger. God ! how glad I shall be when this existence comes to a close. We all count the days
and weeks, and try to make time fly faster by anticipation. Rice will start on the 2d proximo ; he will
have a pound of bread, a pound of meat per day for a week before he starts — this in addition to the vegetable
soups, I believe. Jans [Jens] has the same ration. I feel an inertness that makes anything like action of
every kind very distasteful, and it reiiuires a great effort to do anything. Frederik, Eskimo, thinks the
straits are frozen up and all right. Jans [Jens] expresses some doubts, I understand. Beautiful moonlight
now. The light is increasing fast. We had a discussion on English history last night; also the President of
the United States. The party are all about the same; no signs of scurvy as yet have shown themselves.

Memorandum : Cranberry pie.

yaniiary cf. — Barometer, 29.31 [744.46"""]; thermometer, —29 [ — 33. 9°C.]. The average temperature
in the house here is about +30 to +32 [—1.1° C. to 0.0° C], at times, when the stove is lighted, or just

ill

(fi

ill

^ li

414

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

1 .11 i

afterwards. At other times it is about +26 [—3.3° C], or thereabouts. Fine day. All day calm and clear,
with beautiful moonlight. Breakfast of seal-skin soup and coffee; English beef, with tea, for supjier. We all
notice a saltiness in the tea, &c., now, which is only to be accounted for by supposing the sea water to find
itself into the lake in some way. At high tide there is very litde difference. I went out to-day for a few
minutes and worked on the new water-hole. Some of the rest went out. It is going down slowly. Missouri
talked about to-day. I said something about St. Louis during the riots, and also of Kansas City. Cold hands
and feet alternate with me and with the rest, with few exceptions. When not cold in the hands or feet it is
generally my body. Ralston gave a very interesting description last night of his early days on a farm in
Iowa. I^escribed country dishes and customs, &c. I go out sometimes in the alley-way and get my feet
warm by sitting on the doctor's medicine-box, with my feet on the stone used by the cooking stove. The
stove is a mere cylinder, somewhat smaller at top than [atj bottom, about as large as a good size bucket. It
has a door. It is cold and chilly in the alley-way during the ilay, and one is in the way of the cooks at that
time, or in the way of Whisler, who is sawing the wood. We commence on the barrels about the 11th inst.
Cross, Schneider, and Bender keep down in their bags more than any one else.

Memorandum: Mrs. O'Shea's figs.

Bowels opened — took a dose of opium, which the doctor managed to spare. We are so short of med-
icine that I have had difficulty in getting openers, and had to use salt water, &:c. The health of the party
and our spirits are surprising. I am now smoking a mixture of tobacco, tea leaves, and birch bark. We
are discussing notes to-night, and have now got on tlie subject of pigs for broiling. Visions of Fort Conger
and everything left behind there in the shape of food freiiuently come up. Time flies fast.

yaiuiary 10, — Barometer, 29.97 [761.22"""]; thermometer, —28.5 \—Z'h'^^ C.J.

Memorandum : St. Louis, between 4th and 5th streets, opposite City Hall, large establishment, where
very fine pastry, fancy cakes, iS:c., may be obtained. Olive street, between 4th and 5th, sugared fruits, place
kept by Italians. 6th street, corner of Pine — Silver Moon, quite a cheap restaurant; fine dinner, 50 cents.
7th street, corner of Pine, fine bakery, where excellent bread and something fine in the way of tapioca and
cocoanut pies may be obtained.

Very fine day to-day, almost perfectly calm. Moon very bright. Dr. Pavy spoke of St. Louis, and I ot
Kansas City and St. Louis. Other notes of Missouri finished uj) this State. Corporal [SergeantJ Elison had
both feet taken off at the ankle within the last few days. They were in such condition that it s>'f;ms it was
done without his knowing it. A temporary separation was only attempted. Another and regular amputa-
tion will have to be done at Littleton Island. Two fingers were also taken off. All this was done without his
knowing it. The doctor drew some pretty pictures last night of farming life in Missouri, and gave his fish-
ing experience, &c. We find a taste of salt in our tea and have come to the conclusion that the salt water
finds its way in the lake. Will have to melt ice if this thing continues. New hole progresses slowly.
Breakfast this morning of seal-skin soup, tea, and bread. Supper to-night — corned beefand bread. Issue of
butter made for to-night. Got 8 ounces of corned beef from Jewell, in addition. My own supper con-
sisted of 4 ounces of corned beef, all my bread, and about two ounces of butter. I now have for Sunday a
half a pound of corned beef, three and a half ounces butter, about half pound of bread, in lieu of the "son-
of-a-gun," which 1 gave to Frederick. No fox seen around for some days. Was not out to-day. Bowels
loose to-day. 1 have stopped my trading and the rest of the party have done very litde. Intermittent talk
on the subject of food and dishes during the day. I dreamed of home last night. Gardiner's fingers slowly
improving. The frost bites of various ones get well very slowly. I will have to stop smoking tea leaves and
the bark. It seems to have had a bad effect upon me.

January 11. — Barometer, 30.03 I762.7S"'"']; thermometer, —21.5 [ — 29,7° C.]. Day clear and
tolerably calm. Day passed very much as usual. Eating all my bread last night, I had nothing for break-
fast but a cup of coffee and a little butter. Found a salty taste, however, which spoiled it to a great extent.
I felt some pain about the bowels during the day ; to-night as well as usual. Our spirits remain good,
though some at times complain of feeling badly. Elison's feet are off, and some of his fingers. There is
now a perceptible difference in the amount of light.

Memorandum: Nova Scotia homespun, Halifax.

Supper to-night — fine fox stew. I have not touched my bread or butter to-night. I have saved enough
for a "pat" for myself Sunday. I will have bread, meat, and butter. Kansas s[)oken of to-day. Not very
much said about the State, however; at least not as much as expected. Reading every night, nearly, or
some personal experience.

['t'V

t ■

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

415

Memorandum : Meerschaum pipe, Halifax.

yanuiiry 12. — Barometer, ; thermometer, —18.5 [ — 28.1° C.]. Sick; diarrhea jjiis evening.

Smoking of anything but tobacco forbidden by Lieutenant Greely. Cross's, Schneider's, and Linn's moutlis
looking badly. I went out, but tlid not have time to get out (juick enough; had a very hard time. 1 used
butter can in the vestibule ; threw it outside then.

yanuary 13. — Barometer, 29.86 [758.43'""']; thermometer, —21 [—29.4° C.J. Bread ration increased
half ounce. Party generally in better spirits. I found myself feeling so badly after breakfast that I told
Connell, the next in turn, he would have to go out and cut the water-hole. The salty taste to the water
in the lake still continues, and to-d.ay ice was tied over the blubber lamp and more or less water melted out
in diis way. It makes a vast difference in the taste of the drinks. We use with the stews more or less salt
water, anyhow. Felt very weak and badly all day. My breakfast consisted of my savings, &:c., and was
quite large. I had one "son-o'f-a-gun," but had two cans of hard bread (probably 12 or 14 ounces), one
issue butter, less that saved by cook to go into the "son-of-a gun," (3^4 ounces), .and two issues (8 ounces) of
corned beef. These were all mixed together and made me a good stew, and, with the chocolate, a good
meal. I ate part at the time and i)art at about noon. We had a good stew for supper of about two-thirds
seal meat. The doctor has forbidden my smoking any more for the present. I got from him two ounces 01
rum, though he would not give me any rum to day, the regular issuing day. I got some yesterday, however,
feeling very cold and badly. One oak barrel cooks, at the average, thirty-nine pots. This will give us at
the rate of one barrel every three days. We have a slight margin over the first of March.

yanuary 14. — Barometer, 29.86 [758.43'""']; thermometer, —18 [ — 27.8" C.j. I have been in the
sleeping-bag all day ; am quite weak. Could hardly stand yesterday. I have been in with Lieutenant
Greely and Israel since yesterday, exchanging with Jewell. The doctor has shut down on my smoking
for the present. I find it a great deprivation. Trouble again with the water-hole ; it threatens to freeze
up entirely. It is wonderful that we have been able to get water so long.

Memorandum: Eels {Matelote d' Angiiille), French, well recommended by the doctor.

We now have bacon every Monday, besides we are to have it Thursdays. It is very filling. Some,
indeed most of us, cut it up and eat it with the tea. The tobacco of most of the men is now gone. Tea
leaves and birch bark have been discontinued, the doctor recommending their disuse; they seem to have
a bad effect. Breakfast this morning consisted simply of coffee, bread, and butter. The bread after to-ilay
is increased half ounce. When we have stew or soup the following morning the cook retains part of this
to mix with it, and there are some pounds also thus used which come m the form of toast. There seems
to be salt water in the lake for some unexplainable reason. It is very perceptible in our drinks. We have
commenced melting ice over the blubber Lamp, and thus mend matters to a certain extent, though the
most of the water still comes from the lake. Day dull and :'ilm. With the diarrhea, widi which I have
been suffering, I had some affection of the eyes. My bow,, s seem, in part, to be recovering, and I am
getting my strength again. Frederick has been lying in his bag for many days, and to-day was forced
to get up and sit in his bag for some time. He also sawed some wood. Whisler has been doing this
last for some time. We are now burning old leather boot-soles. Last night Long told us some western
experience. To-day Nebraska was talked about. I had something to say for Nebraska.

yanuary 15. — Barometer, 30.02 [762.49'"'"]; thermometer, —27.5 [—33-1° C.]. I am still quite
weak. I find it difficult to move in the bag from a lying to a sitting position. The doctor has stopped
my smoking or [and] chewing, which is quite a serious deprivation. The water in the lake gave out to-day.
Another hole, the other which has been under way for some time, was then finishetl, but gave no water.
We are to try ancther hole to-morrow, to make sure, but there is little hope of water. We had one pot of
tea to-night, which gave half cups to each man. The seal stew was made up altogether of salt water.
Breakfast this morning consisted of corn and extract of meat. It had a delicious flavor. We are to have
American bread hereafter on Wednesdays, instead of English, .and bacon on Mond.ay and Thursd.ay
evenings. This bacon is raw. The English bacon comes cooked in the cans which preserve it. Indian
Territory was dwelt upon this morning. The spirits of the party are good, though a trifle below what
they have been, perhaps.

yanuary i6. — Barometer, 29.72 [754.87'""']; thermometer, —21.3 [ — 29.6° C.|. Breakfast consi.sted
of seal-skin stew, very good indeed, and half cup of chocolate. The lake has given out, and now we are
reduced to half a cup, thougli the cooks think that when we have no other hot foods they will be al)le to
have something over just half a cup. We came to the conclusion to-day that there was no more water in the

416

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

I 4

.1 1

lake, thougli to-morrow another hole is to be started as a last trial. The American bread to-night very
good, and much i)referred by us all. I ate all mine, and also two pieces of English bread I had saved over
from last night. English meat to-night. Found myself so weak last night, on getting up, that I could
scarcely stand, and came near falling down. The bread ration was increased from to-day a half ource. This
is due to overestimates, and probably also to much of the bread being damp and wet. Foxes seem to have
left — none heard of for some time. I have spent the day in sleeping-bag. Something has been the matter
wi>'i my eyes, but the doctor seems to think they arc getting all right. I take a smoke of tobacco to-night.
The doctor has at length restored this priceless boon. Spirits of the party have seemed a litUe down for a
few days, but are now better. We count the days forward and back. Rice made some jjreparations towards
getting his sleei)ing-bag ready to-day. \Vill have increased rations for a week before starting. Cloudberries
to-day. Lime-juice yesterday. Storm this evening.

yamitiry 17. — Barometer, 29.56 [750.81"""]; thermometer, —36 [—37.8° C.J. The two messes now
have two pots of tea, one melting the ice over the blubber lamp during the day. This gives a half cupful
to each man. This is founil quite satisfactory. We have no salt in our drink, which is a decided improve-
ment. The party has been rather dejjressed for some ilays, owing to exactly what I do not know. To-night
we are in better spirits, but still not in as good sjjirits as two weeks ago. Some singing to-night, the first for
some time. The talk during the day has been less than usual. I can hardly rise from a lying to a sitting
j)osture, or from a sitting posture to a rising posture. Considerably more light is now apparent. We now
chop ice from the lake. Four and a half days on one barrel, which is very good. I have not written the
letter to the dear ones at home, and circumstances may prevent altogether. Our uncomfortable circum-
stances must be my excuse, if circumstances should be such as to prevent me. Clod only knows I think
enough of those at home. Dakota was i ut up [talked of | to-day. We all suffer a good deal from cold feet
and hands. I find it extremely tlilficult to keep warm. We count the days from one " son-of-a-gun " to another.
This double sight still troubles me, though it is not so bad. I am very nervous. The doctor has stopped my
tobacco since I have been taken thus, but yesterday and to-tlay has allowed me one smoke each day. Cross
has been lying very close in his bag, and is a good deal demoralized and very weak. To-day he was put in
the single bag, next to Hiederbick, to be watched. He is made to get up every day and saw a little wood.
Jewell is still in my bag, but has moved by Lieutenant Clrecly's orders next to the bag occupied by Schneider.
Henry now occupies part of this bag. We are talking a good deal of food this evening. The doctor
promises this evening some description of a Spanish bull-fight.

Memoranilum : Tomato i)ie, made of green tomatoes. ■

Most of the party are comparatively well still. Elison does not know of the loss of his feet yet. He
is in Bood spirits. Breakfast this morning — ox-tail souj), tea, and bread. Dinner — American bacon and
bread. The issue of butter for to-morrow morning and next Monday was made for our mess this evening.
Many eat a little butter, however, at each meal. "American Shipping" was finished yesterday. Ljeutenant
Greely also read "Regulations" in the morning; also this morning. American bread issued last night.
To-night we have English bread.

ydniujiy 18. — Barometer, 29.52 [749.79"""]; thermometer, —40 [ — 40.0*^ C.J. Cross died to-day
about 1.30 p. m., of dropsical ctTusion of the heart. My attention was first called to him last night, Jewell,
who sleeps ne;'r him, giving the alarm. He was found insensible by the doctor, but this morning rallied a
little, though he did not regain consciousness. He was given brandy and soup to-day, but it was with
tlifficully, I believe, they were gotten down. He has been moaning all day up to the time of his death. It
seems that the doctor told Lieutenant Creely some time ago of this effusion of the heart that Cross had;
that his constitution was broken down, &:c. His long course of intemperance, both at Fort Conger and
before he came up to this region, is the cause of his constitution showing so little reactionary power. His
foot that was frozen still remains [remained | unhealed. Yesterday he was up for a short time sawing wood,
in order to give him exercise. He will be buried to-morrow on die little neck of land between here and the
jilace where we first landed — that is, at tiie other end of the lake. Lieutenant Greely made .a few remarks
after his death as to the cause of it, and said that the rest of us should have no occasion for ilepression, nor
allow his death to depress us. Day very fine, clear, and bright. We had a very fine seal stew for supper.
Henry has taken Cross's place in the other mess, for the present at least. Cross's body will be sewed up in
coffee sacks and canv.is. Cross has l)cen a little out of his mind for some time. More talk about food
to-day, and dishes have been discussed.

Memorandum: Sconi [Scotch scones] Bannock cake. Pudding of green com.

THK LADY FRANKLIN HAY KXI'KDITIOX.

417

Owe Cross's heirs for twenty pieces of clothing washed hy Cross. 'I'he ]>arty arc in very good spirits,
everything considered. I am now taking medicine prescribed by the doctor. I find myself still very weak.
I am a little better, however, within the past few days. Smoked only once to-day, by the tloctors orders.
Cold feet to-day. We had a full cup of cliocolate for breakfast this morning, with bread and butter.
Thermometer inside to-day, about ii a. m., +30 [ — 1.1° C.j. Yesterday I noticed it at +23 |— s.o°C.],
inside, the lowest I have seen it. How often, in these dreary days, I think of those at home. How I should
like to write out a family letter, as a safeguard against what may yet hnp[)en. Will the dear ones appreciate
my reason.s, should anything prevent me from returning to my native land?

yaiitttvy 19 (Saturday) — Rarometer, 29.69 [754.11"""]; thennonictcr, —40 [—40.0" C], below .scale.
Breakfast — peas and rice and a good cup of chocolate. Cross was buried today at the otlier end of the
lake. Lieutenant Kislingbury, Hrainard, Rice, Israel, Whisler, and Salor attended the body to the grave,
which was dug about a foot [.3"'] deep, and sand and gravel and a few rocks hea|)ed on top. After awhile
more rocks will be added, and also a head-board. The body wa<i sewed ui) in canvas antl buried in the
American flag. Several of us did not go out on account of frost bites, and the others on account of the lack
of foot gear, the number of Arctic overshoes being very limited. Cross was forty years old to-day. This is
also Gardiner's birthday; he is twenty seven. lie had a drink of rum and our good wishes. Those of
Cross's clothes worth anything, have been, or are to be, divided uj) among the party. A few trinkets were
found in his pockets, &c. The daily ration of bread was increased from to-day half ounce, which makes
the total daily allowance 7.8 ounces, inclu<iing tlie dog-bread. Rice is to have one ])ound meat and 12
ounces bread in crossing the straits. The thermometer is below scale, which only registers down to —40
[—40.0° C.J. It is clear and calm out of doors and there is indication of the straits being all right. The
burial service was read here in the hut over the remains of Cross before they were taken out. I made a
few remarks on Cross, all that were made. I could say little in his favor. Of course I said nothing in
detraction.

Memorandum: Lemon butter.

We are all in pretty good spirits, and look forward pretty sanguinely to pulling through. It is thought
that the wood will last until the first of March. We have five days of stearine after this, besides alcohol.
Rice is to start on the 2d February. Our usual routine l-.as been interrupted pur|)osely as little as [)ossible by
Cross's death. To indulge in sadness, &:c., would have a very bad etilect upon the living.

yaiiiKvy 20. — Harometer, 29.71 [754.62"""]; thermometer below scale. Day calm and clear, but
very cold out of doors. Unfortunately the low-reading thermonKter is lost, and the one left only registers

42 [—41.1° C.]. Fine " son-of-a-gun " this morning, which had the usual effect of putting many to sleep.

Piece of lemon and a half gill of rum shortly after noon, and a fine seal .stew diis evening. Jewell was
transferred to the other me.ss this morning, though he takes still two or th.jc meals with our mess, to equalize
rations. I came ba(-k to my old place to-day, and Jewell resumes his place in the bag with Lieutenant
Greely and Israel. Hoth of these moves aie much to his disgust. I did not find it comfortable in that
bag, rendered more so by my extreme weakness, which still continues. I seem to mentl very slowly indeed;
I do not understand it. I can hardly unilerstand it and can hardly stand up. Very cold feet ever since
last night. Our good meals to-day seem to have a good effect. What is to be the end of this remains to
be seen. I hope to pull through all right. If I do not I hope the dear ones at home will ai)preciate the
circumstances. Oh! for the conveniences to write a good letter to them. How often my thoughts |)icture
up the family scenes at home. Every moment I use the e.xtra l)lul)i)er lamp to write these lines, with colil
fingers, is so much off our supply of light as well as rations, for blubber is rations. To-night the Escpiimaux
sang some songs, as well as the others. Henry is now next to the south of me. Some squabbles to-day.
Tried to introduce sound to-night, but only got it half way in. Tiiis is the first time I have made the
attempt since leaving" Fort Conger. I find I have a contraction of the and think it is due to this.

yanuary 21. — Barometer, ; thermometer, —34 [ — 36.7° C.j.

Memorandum: Lemon butter.

Calm and clear. Last evening passed very pleasantly, antl conversation was kept up until 9 p. ni. I
sat up in the darkness till midnight trying to get my feet warm, and, by rubbing them, partially succeeded.
To-day my feet have been warm and comfortable all day. I still find myself very weak; was unable to lift
myself U|) to a sitting posture this morning until I got hold of a stra|) overhead. I do not imderstand this
weakness. In view of my fiiilure last night, however, conclude it might be due to a closing up of the urethra.
I went to Lieutenant Greely this afternoon and told him I had been growing weak for several weeks pre-
H. Mis. 393 27

418

TDK liADY FIJANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

vious and am breaking down, but had kept silence about it on account of the effect it might have on the
party. I urged that, if I find myself in this condition when the time comes to leave here, I be left behind
with my share of the rations, anil be sent back for on the i)arty reaching Littleton Island. He said that it
was something he would never think of for a moment, the idea of leaving any one behind. I gave him and
the i)arty generally a better idea of my condition and my extreme weakness. Saw the doctor, and he stoijped
my tobacco altogether, and has told me to stop using the sound. Hrainard took an inventory to-day and
found 12 cans of milk stolen. This is quite a serious loss, and the thief gets not a few imprecations. Some
of the party seem to have suspected Cross. Cross was found, on examining his bag, to have brought along
a number of articles, among others Lieutenant Greely's epaulets, &c. Some slight additions are to be made
in the rations notwithstanding. The blubber is increased to 1 1 ounces per week jier man, hard bread to 57
ounces. The extra seal meat we have been getting on Suntlays is to be carried to the end of February, so
as to make an extra stew. The party in very good spirits this afternoon and evening. It is now much
lighter in the day ; the light is increasing i)erceptibly. Breakfast this morning — bread, butter, and chocolate;
this afternoon — .\merican bacon (raw), hard bread, and tea. I have not yet found out the best way of eating
my bacon. Some of us i)ut it in our tea, and thus get it a little more tender. I try all sorts of ways of
making my meals feel more satisfactory.

'yitiiiiiiiy 22. — Barometer, 30.00; thermometer, —^7 [— 32.8°C.]. I got very little sleep last night;
my feet felt as if packed in ice, so cold were they. I took a short nap this forenoon, something very
unusual. Lieutenant Greely spoke on California. Breakfast this morning consisted of soup of peas and
carrots. We had a fine seal-meat stew for supi)er. The doctor is giving me iron every day since yesterday
or day before ; also quinine, though I do not know how long it is to be continued. The invalids are now
Elison, Gardiner, Henry (frost-bitten toe), and myself. I feel stronger to-day, and so I hope we may all be
considered as on the convalescent list. I find total deprivation from tobacco a great hardship and very
hard to bear. Fox tracks seen near by to-day. 1 now have a mattress under nie.

y^iinuary 23. — Barometer, ; thermometer, —21 [ — 29.4° C.J. Waked up this morning at 3

a, m. with cold feet ; have been miserable ever since with feet icy cold, so much so that I am not quite sure
they are not frost-bitten. Total deprivation of tobacco to-day has gone a great ways towards making me
feel more miserable. I got up this afternoon and stayed a little too long. It made me so weak that I could
not get back to the sleeping-bag without the assistance of Frederik, Eskimo, who helped me. Breakfast — seal
soup and chocolate; and dinner — English meat and tea. I have cup of drink in each case. Had American
bread for supper, and are to have it three times a week hereafter. There is to be a reduction in English
meat, but we are to have bacon, &c., instead. This is a very great change, as English meat seems to go a
very short ways. Strong west wind all day. Discussion to-night as to how many barrels we have burned.
It is not settled whether we are running ahead or behind on the wood question. This is very important.
I am very weak, though a litde stronger than of late. Lieutenant Greely spoke of San Francisco this
morning. He also read some from a book on agriculture and commercial statistics. Increased rations
for Rice and Jans [JensJ will begin on Sunday next. One pound of bread and meat for each until they
leave, and three-quarter pound of bread and one pound of meat while crossing. Rice is to take six days'
rations. Reading every evening, and conversation generally on food, &c., keeps the blubber lamp burning
until 8.30 or 9.30, or thereabouts. After that go to sleep. After midnight until six a. m. there are constant
questions as to the time. I gave Frederik, Eskimo, to-night a memorandum for $25, which I promised
him on the spring trip of 1882.

January 24. — Barometer, 30.00 [761.99"""]; thermometer, — 20 [-28.9" C] Breakfast — ox-tail
soup, bread, and tea (half cup as usual). Supper — American bacon, 9^ ounces to-night, and in the morning
American bread and half cup of tea. This additional bread has been saved by the cooks. American
bread is to be issued hereafter on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, and dog-biscuit on Saturdays. On
the mornings when we have nothing but bread, butter, and drink, we are to have a full cup of drink. The
bread loomed up in the plate to-night in a most comfortable appearance. Slept well last night, having
revived the circulation of my feet on the stove stone, and afterwards got Frederik [Christiansen] to rub
them. Frederik [Christiansen] also loaned me a pair of socks, so that I had on under my sleeping boots
four pairs of socks. These socks only go to the ankle. Felt well to-day; much better than yesterday. The
spirits of the party have been higher to-day, and the talk a good deal on Rice's departure and hopes of
soon having news of assistance from the other side. Good deal of conversation in the afternoon on history;
chronology table suggested by several important historical dates. Dr, Pavy gave personal reminiscences

THE LADY FUANKLIN BAY HXPKUITION.

419

on a pedestrian tour in Switzerland. I too made a few remarks on common mistakes in F-nglish t;rannnar.
Kane's book was commenced last night. To-day generally calm and pretty clear. We all suffer a great
deal from cold hands and feet. +14 [ — 10.0° C.J is the lowest temperature observed in the Iwnse u,) to
date. Since the banking and the tunnel, the lowest has been -\-ig [ — 7.2° C.]. All of us are on the
convalescent list at present, though recovery from frost-bites, Ike, is very slow. It is a great elTort for me to
expose my hands long enough to write this journal. They soon get cold and numb. Anything like sewing
re(iuires a great effort. Lieutenant Greely urges at least a little exercise every day — sufficient at least to
get the party out of their bags to take a few steps in the aisle.

yamiary 25. — Barometer, 29.85 [758.18"""]; thermometer, —32 [—35.6° C.|. lireaKfast — coffee,
butter, and bread. Supper — fine seal soup with some American bread jiarticularly cris|) and palatable. It
was quite demoralizing to know how to manage our sup[)er. Whether to make paji out of all or part of
the bread, or put all the bread in the soup (or stew as we call it), or whether to eat tlie bread ilry. Or, if
we have any butter left, to eat some butter, or all, or none, is very harassing. The butter is shareil for
Monday and Friday mornings, when we have nothing else but bread and drink, but some save little or nothing
for these mornings, finding it impossible to overcome the tem|)lation in the meantime. Hiederbick's birth-
day to-day — 25 years old. He got a drink of rum. Lieutenant Greely read more or less out of a statis-
tical book, and we went over all the chronology dates that could be thought of Kane, &c., was read last
night. Conversation to-day also more or less on food. Rice commences his increased rations to-morrow
morning.

Memorandum : Bread with intermixed dried fruit.

I have had icy cold feet all day, which have made me miserable. They commenced to get cold last
night, though I was not wakened by them until just before breakfast. We discussed now a good deal our
hopes concerning Rice. May he get over safely and find and bring relief, is my prayer. Life of St, Patrick
read a little last night. Windy this evening ; everything pretty much same as yesterday. Bender made
some molds to mold the few pounds of stearine remaining into candles. In this way it is proposed to be
able to use the blubber, or most of it, for food.

yii/iitaty 26. — Barometer, 29.92 [759.95"""]; thermometer, —26 [ — 32.2° C.]. Breakfast — fine flavored
soup of rice and tomatoes, and tea. Supper — English meat and dog-biscuit, with tea. Day passed very
much as usual. My feet have been warm to-day, and I have felt (piite comfortable. The spirits of the
party seem much higher. I am getting strong, I am glad to say. I am taking iron now every day. 1 was
able to save half of the bread of last night until to-night. Extra rations issued to Rice and Jans [Jens| for
to-night and the morning. They will leave February 2d. Statistical book read from to-day by Lieutenant
Greely, and chronology table. Kane read every day now. Koningsbee [Coningsby] will be finishetl this
evening. We shall have no milk in to-morrow's "son-of-a-gun," but a little more blubber than usual. Our
conversation often turns on Fort Conger and the cooking there — as to which of the cooks did best, iVc.
Many think that Long's bread was the best they ever ate. One curious phase of these days of fasting is
that the mind can hardly recall any di.sh of food ever tasted with an actual sense of having disliked it. We
have a full cup of drink now, when we have only drink, bread, and butter. I gave Jans [Jens] written
memorandum of indebtedness to him for $4, which he says is the amount of my bill for washing. Frederik
[Christiansen I helps me in getting in and out my sleeping-bag, &c. I give him a little tobacco each day,
and have also promised him some turkey or bird [pork or bread] when we reach B [Proven], provided I can
get the article. Increasing daylight is often remarked. Kane's sufferings, starvation, &c., are often con-
trasted with our own.

Memorandum : Macaroni pudding.

yanuary 27. — Barometer, ; thermometer, —28 [ — 33.3].

Memorandum: Instead of cream and sugar for fresh fruit, try cream, sugar, and white of eggs, beaten
to a froth.

Another Sunday gone, Rice's last, and but two more for the party before the sun reappears. Break-
fast — " son-of-a-gun." We miss the milk which gives the " son-of-a-gun " sweetness, but had a little more
blubber, which made it more filling. Supper to-night, a very fine seal stew, made thick with bread dust —
almost thick enough for the spoon to stand upright. Rum and a fourth of a lemon shared this evening. I
managed to save over my three dog-biscuit from last night, and so, with my bread, this evening fare very
well. Conversation to-day on many subjects. Dr. Pavy and Lieutenant Greely said something about
traveling in Switzerland and France. We all show a decided disinclination to going out of doors. Got up

420

TUE LADY FJtANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

I >

r -;

• )

ii;!

^ f: ;i:^

about noon, but, strange to say, found myself very weak — more so than usual — and so got back again into
my bag, after bciiij; uj) a few minutes. Frederik, Kskinio, helps me in these operations. I told him to-
night I would give hiui some tobacc^o on reaching U \ Proven]. I would rather be seriously ill and sick in a
land of civilization than thus indisjjosed in this place. How heartily I should be thankful when I get out
of this, as I hope to. Lieutenant Greely ordered tea grounds to be thrown away after this, several of the
men showing great reluctance to giving up their use, though recommended by the doctor to do so. We
are all in good spirits, and feel (|uitc sanguine of finding substantial assistance at Littleton Island. Calm
today, and those out noticed much increased daylight. Our ice is now cut very fine, so it is much more
quickly melted. It is partially melted over the blubber lamp. Chocolate for breakfast this morning,
and tea to-night at supper. I still have most of my rum, which I will drink later. Also about half my
night's issue of bread. Farming seems to have dropjjed off into the shade. Long seems to be the cnly one
man who still .sticks to his original plan, that of opening a restaurant, ''wo fo.xes seen to-day ; it shows they
have not altogether deserted the country, as feared. Much discussion is devoted as to the best way of
eating our meals, rum,&c. Bache Island and the country to the north was reported quite distmct today at
noon. Old leather boots have been cut up; with the rojjc they add considerably to our fuel. 'I'here is
great difference in the burning of the stove, as there is little or no wind.

yanitary 28. — Barometer, 29.92 [759.95"""]; thermometer, —:s^]i 1—38.9° C.J. Breakfa.st — tea,
bread, and chocolate. Su[)per — bacon, tea, and American bread. Hereafter we are to have 7 ounces of
bread on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, 9 on Fridays, and 8 on .he other two days remain-
ing — jy ounces in all. Rice gets 4 ounces of blubber per day up to the time m' his leaving. Conversation
ushered in this morning by many remarks regarding Cross, showing very bad habits, and a lack of principle
on his part. It seems to have been Cross who took the milk. The day has passed very quickly. Chrono-
logical table this evening. During the evening Brainard gave the particulars of his Indian fight. Good deal
of conversation to-day on the subject of Rice's ileparture, and what we may e.xpect, &c. We all feel quite
sanguine. I felt quite strong this morning on getting up, though 1 hail little appetite for my bread. On
s|)eaking of this, I was directed to eat it at once. It is quite astonishing not to have a voracious appetite at
all times. I did not lose mine by any means, but simply lost some of it this morning, I have felt in good
spirits all day, however; slept well last night until 2 o'clock this a. m. Every day we count the days for-
ward to different days ahead. I suppose the subject of food and dishes will never die out until we have all
we can eat. It is the subject to which we all recur with most interest. We blow out blubber lamp every
night at about 8^ to 9^4, or thereabouts. Koningsbee [Coningsby] was finished last night. We find Kane
possesses a new interest in the light of our ])resent experience. A number of stearine candles have been
made. Fox seen to-day, but Brainard's gun would not go off — it is the shot-gun.

yanitary 2C), — Barometer, 29.88 [758.94"""]; thermometer, —32 [— 3S.6°C.].

Memorandum: Try wine with sauce for fruit mentioned on the 27th inst. Try coon, porcupine,
opossum, &c.

Breakfast — soup of corn, extract meat, potatoes, tea, and bread. Supper — fine seal stew with a good
deal of bread in it, FJiglish bread, and tea. Chronology table to-day; also remarks by doctor on the
stomach, &c. Several wordy disputes during the day; among others one on the difference between coon,
'possums, hedgehogs, &c., this afternoon. We ha\ e a good many of these wordy disputes, which often start
off without any one fully understanding what any one else means. One this afternoon consisted of whether
rock candy ever came in sticks or not. Rice commenced his operations for departure yesterday on his
sleeping-bag. He and Jans [Jens] take a single man bag, one found in the wreck. It has been enlarged
for them. It was discovered to-day that the tobacco found in the English cache was gone. Fox seen to^
day, but it seems impossible to get at him. Slept very well last night, and without waking up until 2 o'clock
this morning. One of the annoyances of this life is the difficulty we have in trying to cheat the stomach and
make our dole of food seem more than it really is. We have more than a half-dozen ways of combining
and intermixing our bread, meat, and tea. It is pitiable the value one puts on a miserable little piece of
hard, coarse, hard-bread. Calm this morning, but blowing this evening. The wind makes the stove bum
quickly and without much smoke, however. The other side of the straits — Bache Island, &c. — are now
plainly visible. Rice is to leave on the 2d inst. Of course his coming departure and what he may find
are constant sources of conversation. I trust God he may find all that is expected, or at least not miss
finding, at the very least, the cache of 240 rations. Rice says to look for his return between the 14th and
15th inst. He will not come back if there is any one there to senil. Lieutenant Greely counts on nothing

^Jl

TIIK LADY FUANKMN HAY KXPKDITIOS.

421

more llian the cache of 240 rations. Most of us hope to find Ciarlinnton over there. I get tip for a walk in
the aisle two or three times every day. I tind myself stron^jer, but still very weak, and reijuirinj; aid from
Frederik, Kskimo, every time I get up. I take iron now every day. We have a very small supply. Ri( c
and Jans [Jens] also take iron.

jfiiniiitn' ^o. — Harometer, 29.64 [752.84 '|; thermometer, —34 [ — 36.7° C.|, and —36 |— 37.8"C.|

later. Mreakfast — seal-skin soup. Dinner— corned beef, and American bread, and tea. Day fine and
calm. I had a fine sleep last night. Last night Dr. I'avy made some interesting remarks on \'cnice; after-
wards Ralston read sonie from I'ickwic k. Klison is getting on <|uite well. Me will lose most of his fingers.
Cloudberries today. 1 am getting stronger, but very slowly. Today I was in<lisposed with cramps, and
I had to get Whisler to help me up. 'i'he doctor has forbidden me smoking and chewing of toba< co and
chewing tea leaves. Hiederbick must have rei>orte<l to him that I was (hewing tobacto, for he accused me
of it to day. I have stopped smoking and chewing, but may have a little mite in my mouth. 1 give
Frederik, Kskimo, a little tobacco every day. We are now burning candles made of stearine. Spirits of
the party very good. Mine have been somewhat low for the past two or three days. The doctor made
')me remarks on the stomach this morning.

yuniM/y^i. — Barometer, 29.61 [752.08"""]; thermometer, -6 f— 21.1° C.|, [and] —2 [—18.9° C] at 8
p. m. Breakfast — ox-tail sou]) an<l chocolate. Supper — bacon, American bread anil tea. The weather has
turned cloudy, and with a light wind from the west. Dense smoke at supper, and the pots were a long time
in boiling. Rice engaged during the day in pre|)arations for his dei)arture. He takes a shee|)-skin bag along
covered with the oil-skin of his old bag. Rice estimates his rations, iVc, except the sleeping-bag, at 45
pounds weight. The bag will probably weigh 16 pounds. He takes six days' rations along, some little
niedicine, alcohol, small lamj) made to-day by Bender, lime-juice, rum, Ike. I believe I am getting stronger
slowly, but very slowly indeed. Frederik, Kskimo, heljis me u]) two or three times every day, w lien I take a
little promenade in the aisle. I have not felt in very good spirits to day — rather down at [in| the mouth. I
can assign no particular reason. The party are all very anxious for the news expected by reason of Rice's
trip with Jans [Jens]. There are saiil to be some suspicious looking clouds over the east.

Felmiaiy 1 (^Friday). — Barometer, 29.47 [748.52"'"']; thermometer, —15.5 [ — 26.4° C.J. Breakfast —
bread, butter, and coffee; full cup of last. Supper — fine stew of seal meat, 3 ounces per man, 3).:^ ounces
brea<l per man, i ounce lime juice pemmican. This is the first time we have had pemmican. We are '.o
have it hereafter three times a week — one stew of pemmican entirely, and an ounce of pemmican in the
others. The bread is to be slightly increased — 64 ounces per week per man hereafter, without including the
dog-biscuit. With the latter it will amount to 70 ounces. The bread is issued differently for the different
days of the week, according to the other food during the day — the amount withheld for the stews, &c. Rice
and Jans [Jens] get off in the morning. 'I'he cooks will be called at 5 o'clock instead of the usual hour of 6
o'clock. 'I'his is provided it does not storm. I have not been feeling well to-day, and was very weak when
I got up this afternoo "?lt better this afternoon, but one foot very cold. A gn it deal of attention paid,
of course, to Rice's pn tions for departure. I trust Cod, Rice will find the necessary help over on the
other side, I do not take it as a matter of course that the straits will be found dosed, though as every one
else seems to, I say nothing about my fears. How often I think of and long for the dear ones at home. I
trust Cod they are all well.

Fihnuity 2. — Barometer, 29.43 [747.51'""']; thermometer, —27.5 [ — 33.1° <-•■], and —19 [ — 28.3° C]
in the morning. Kane and Hayes read, but I fell asleep anil missed them both. Many times during the
early morning hours inquiries were made for the time. The cooks were finally called 20 minutes before 5
o'clock. Breakfast — soup of rice and tomatoes — about the finest flavored soups we have — and chocolate.
Rice and Jans [Jens] went to work after breakfast to complete their preparations, and finally got off at 20
minutes before 9 o'clock. Rice and Jans [Jens] were given a quarter pound a piece of extra meat for the
morning's meal, and went oft" in fine spirits, feeling very hopeful. The sky has been slightly overcast and
hazy, and very little or no wind during the day. Brainard and Frederik, Eskimo, went along with the
party half way to the P | Beebe] cache. It is unnecessary, of course, to give the many hopes that go with
them. Rice carried about 38 j)ounds, and Jans [Jens] about 35. Their sleeping-bags weigh about 30
pounds, and the gun — Kislingbury's — about 9 pounds. I made an attempt to go out of doors to-day, with
the assistance of Ralston, but only went as far as the alley-way, feeling too weak. Supper at 2.30, the usual
hour, of English meat, dog-biscuit — 3 — and tea. I find myself very weak, and getting stronger extrenuiy
slowly. The new moon made her a|)pearance to day.

Memorandum: Cup biscuit. Forms for filling with preserves, iS:c.

i j

422

TIIH LADY FRANKLIN BAY KXTKDITION.

FibnMry 3. — Haromutcr, 29.47 [748.52"""]; ihonnomctcr, —19 [ — 28.3° C.J, and —26 [ — 31.2° C.J
about 8 J). 111. The day has been hazy and cahn. A fox was sliot early yesterday morning ; one of those
little blue and whiie. Itrainard thinks he will weij{h abou^ three pounds dressed. We have had two fine
meals to-day. "Son-of-a-gun" this morning was very thick and satisfactory. "Son-of-a-gim" this morning
consisted of 7 ounces American bread, 20 ounces lard, 4 ounces blubber, 11 ounces raisins, and between 5
and 6 oun<es butter. For supper to-night the stew consisted nf j ounces seal meat and 1 pemmi( an, 3
ouiK es brea,: per man, 4 ounces blubber, iVc. It was a very fine stew ; very salisfariory. I saved a milk
can of my "sonof-a-gun" this morning, and ate it about 10 o'clock. y\bout noon I went out of doors for
the first time since I have been sick, with the assistance of Frederik | Christiansen]. I find a great dift'er-
ence in the amount of light. I am getting stronger very slowly. The slight increase in the rations will
help me rapidly. The doctor gave me iron and (juinine to-<lay. He orders me to take my rum to clay,
half at noon and half after supper. The full meals to-day have the usual effect ; they lay us all out, and many
go to sleej) and conversation flags. It is strange such should be the effect. Several of the men have been
eating little scraps of stearine ; this jiractice has been forbidden. Iwery one almost now go [goes] out a
little every day. Jewell fainted to-night after sup[)er, just after coming in from outside.

Fi-hiiiiXiy \. — IJarometcr, 29.79 |7S''.f'5'""'| I thermometer, —24.5 [—31.4° C.|. IJreakfast — chocolate,
bread, and butter. Supjier — tea, English bread, and roast beef. Day overcast. We had considerable winil
last night. Orders issued this morning that no one hereafter was to cover up his head in the sleeping-bng
iliiring the day. Wc have been very much in this habit. The doctor pays more attention now to the men
going out a little to take exercise. Wc now have to melt ice each day. Jirainard indisposed to-day and
examined by the doctor. Our meals are now better, and the slight increase is (juitc perce[)tible. I think I
am getting better slowly. My feet arc very much swollen. Many of the men arc troubled in the same way.
The skin is very thick and callous. Elison is getting along well,

February 5 — li.irometer, 29.90 (?) [759.4s'""']; thermometer, —23 [—30.6° C.J. Day calm without
wind. IJreakfast— stew of pease, iVc, breail, and tea. Very fine and satisfactory stew of pemmican, American
bread, and tea. Stew to-night consisted of 1 ounce lime-juice pemmican, and 3 ounces Hu<lson IJay pem-
mican, 2i ounces bread, and blubber, &c. The amount of bread issued in plates was f^^ ounces. Each
man gets per week one pound blubber. Ralston is making very good stearinc candles, and thus a good deal
of blubber is saved for eating. I am ordered by the doctor to divide my bread eriually between night and
morning. To-night I ate some of my bread cold ; then when the stew came on dumped the rest in the stew.
The tea overtook me before I had finished the stew, so I then placed the remains of the stew in a can, which
I will keep warm in the sleeping-bag, and went to work on my tea. Brainard is now under the weather
•^oniewhat. The doctor has discovered albumen in his urine, from which, with certain indications of the
chest, he thinks firainard in some danger. I got up myself to-day, and managed to get out of doors without
the .-assistance of Frederik [ChristiansenJ, but fell down in the alley-way coming back, and also fell down on
getting inside here. I am getting stronger, though, daily. This week is to be a feast. Our meals are fine.
Smoking is pretty much stopjied. I have some tobacco left, but cannot use it. Statistics to-day by Lieuten-
ant Greely. We do not talk so much now about food. My feet are all puffed up and half numb. This is
the condition of the feet of many of the men. We think and talk a great deal of Rice, and hope for aid.
It is now getting daily lighter. Connell was on the hill today and says he saw all the way across to the
opposite side of the straits without finding anything like open water.

February G. — Harometer, 29.96 [760.97"'"'] ; thermometer, —21 [ — 29.4° C.J. Rice returns.
Fine stew in the morning of ox-tail soup, bread, and tea. Supper — English meat and pemmican in the
hot stew, with tea and bread. The stew had 3 ounces English meat and i ounce lime-juice pemmican.
The party very quiet during the day, the usual result of good feeding. Weather cloudy from the west and
also from the east. Statistics to-day by Lieutenant Greely, and remarks by Dr. Pavy on ancient history.
Last night the doctor spoke for some time on Alexander the Great. Last night we also had Kane, Hayes,
and The History of Our Own Times, &c. Rice returned to-day at 1.15 p. ni. with Jans [JensJ, both alive
and well, though a good deal broken up by the trip, which they found very trying.

Rice did not get across, but thinks he got ten miles out from shore. Here he found open water up
and down the straits as far as he could see and as far as he went in the two directions. It seemed to extend
north and south indefinitely — moving ice in it and dense water-clouds marking its progress. He does not
think he saw the Greenland shore at any time during his ab.sence. Saw old bear tr.icks but nothing else,
and no game. Thinks he traveled 50 miles in all, and would have been acros before this, probably today,

■.-^.^-■^rJHBca^ggB

THE LADY l-'UANKLIN HAY KXPKDITION.

423

but for the open water. Jans [Jens] showed signs of fatigue and exhaustion a day. or two after his depart-
ure, and frecpiently expressed himself as being no gooil. He was weai<. Koth of them got extremely
little sleep and many falls in the darkness. I'ho drinking cup got a hole burned in it, ami they suffered a
great deal for lack of water. Rice and Jans [Jens] returned in pretty good condition. Of course we are
all very much disappointed. Our rations have been counted on to extend to the loth of March, the ten
days of March on a ration of 1 2 ounces bre.id and 10 of meat for ( rossing the straits. So here is the upshot
of affairs. Our bread is now 64 ounces per week every man. The |)arty take a hold front and are not
wanting in spirit. If our fate is the worse I do not think we shall disgrace the name ol .Vnuricans and of
soldiers. I feel stronger to-night. To-day I have been in low spirits, and alternately feverish and (hilly.
Singular my spirits have raised this evening.

Fifiruary 7. — Uarometer, 29.61 [752.08"""]; thermometer, —27.5 [— 33.i°C.|. I'inc ox-tail soup with
bre.id, \'c., for breakfa.st. My appetite fallen off somewhat, and I kept over some of the bread until late
in the afternoon. Supper tonight, a very fine one, of 3 ounces of Knglish meat and 1 of lime-juice pern-
mican, with 9 ounces of brc.ul in the plate, besides a little in the stew. Shortly after breakfast Lieutenant
Greely announced to the party that there would be no harm in trying to live like canary birds' appetites,
and that after thinking over the subject he had concluded to make some slight reductions in the rations,
enough to allow us 15 days to cross the straits — that is, we can st.ay here until the 6th of March, and then
have 15 days to cross on 12 ounces bread .and 10 of pemmican. The jiarty are very much <lisa|)p()inted, of
course, but show wonderful spirit in the face of the terrible death that now stares us in the face. We cannot
count on getting game here, and it is idle to do so — that is, until April sets in, if then. I think I am myself
getting a little stronger every day. It is hard work under such depressing surroundings. I get the use of
this light I am now using grudgingly. Lieutenant Oreely gave us some statistics to-day. We had conversa-
tion on foo<l. At times my s|)irits have been very low, I must confess it. Should I leave my bones here,
may my dear father, mother, sisters, and Harry, and all know how often they have been in my thoughts, and
hosv often in the late year it h.is been a source of gr^-at regret that I have not been a kinder brother, or a
more dutiful or affectionate son. Hut aw.ay with these gloomy thoughts ! The dear ones at home shall yet
see me, and see me as 1 would wish to be, not as I have been. IJlowing to-day in gusts. Very few of us
went out. Rice started on the return here Monday noon.

Fchruary 8. — Barometer, 39.82 [7i;7.4i"'"'| ; thermometer, —36 [ — 37.8''C. |; below scale at i o'clock.
Breakfast consisted of coffee, butter, anil hard bre.id. I made a very good meal. Supper to-night — very
fine stew, consisting of one ounce lime-juice pemmican and our last fox. It was very fine with the hard bread
and very satisfactory. Our bread expected for Sund.ay. Bender taken sick last night and i:alled on the
doctor; some affection of the side. The Kskimo was moannig, Schneider said crying

Brainard is better this morning, and I feel stronger and can now get u|) without .assistance. F went
out to-day and walked the length of the lake — fell down once. It distresses me a great <leal that I, who
regard myself .as among the strongest of the party, should seem to be among the weakest. Ciariliner and
others report the Greenland coast .is distinctly visible to-d.ay, and between here and Cairn Point a|)parently
no water — that is, no water-clouils. Our situ.ation is deplored [deplorable]. W^e are hardly able to take our-
selves along, and yet will undoubtedly have sick ones to carry. Rice [iroposes to start out again by himself,
and witl.out sleeping-bag, &c. it will be pitiable if this party, after lighting short rations, cold, iVc, all winter,
is (loomed to die in the .spring. Poor Elison I am afraid will never survive. How often I think of the dear
ones at home, the Sunday evening reunions, and .ill the bright and happy pictures that ])resent themselves.
My dear, good old father, may he look with charity on my many shortcomings. My dear mother and sisters,
and Harry, brothers-in-law, and nieces — I trust God they are all well and ha|)])y, and if I do not pull
through this, will le.irn to look on my memory kindly. Hayes' book [" Open Pol.ar Sea"] w.as re.id last night,
and also McCarthy's history.

February (). — Barometer, 30.01 [762.24"'™]; thermometer, —36 [ — 37-8° C] to — 38 [— 38.9° C.j.
Breakfast — rice and tomato soup with chocolate. Supper — American bacon and English bread and te.a — 4
ounces of b.acon and lY^ of bre.ad- Also I have some butter yet remaining from the last issue; so made a
very good meal.

At noon to-day I ate two dog-biscuit saved from this morning. I find I have not so much appetite as
I used to have — especially in the morning. I had to go out immediately after breakfast this morning.
Was .assisted by Brainard, but got thoroughly chilled through. I find it hard to overcome the apathy and
indifference engendered by my present condition and the poor prospects ahead of us. Windy this morning.

424

TIIH hADY I'UANKLIN HAY KXPKIUTION.

hut not so much so later in the il.iy. \Vc < m remain here until about the lotii of March, so Lieutenant
(Ireely says, anil thi'ii have 15 days t'or crossini^. It will be ne<'essiiry to make some small reduction of ratiiuis
to do this. Nordenskiiiid was read last nij^ht and also Hayes, \t. 'I'o-day we had some personal reminis-
(■en( es from Rii e and otiiers, but the day has passed without very uuich life.

/•'i/irutiry 10. — llanimeter, J9.80 [7i;6.9i"""| ; thermometer, — 3.^ | —36.1'' ('.|. Mreakfast — fme"son-of-
a-jjuii," very satisfu-tory, and chocolate. Supper — fme stew of seal meat, blubber, and lime juice pemmican,
with American bread and tea. I climbed over to Lieutenant (ireeley's bag this eveninfj, Jewell tiikiiig my
place. I shall j;o bar k and spend the night at home. 1 have not been feeling very well today — have
taken no exercise. Weather «'alm ; moon shining brightly. Very little conversation during the day, the
full meals having the usual elTect. The temperature inside here n(.\»' during the day is on the average about
+ 23, or +24 | — S-o or — 4.4" t,'.| during the evening, .md about +-•'* ( — -■2° ^'-l during the day. The
last of the seals comes with stews next Sunday. The last of the fox went on Kriday. That one made the
24th fox.

luhnuxry 11, — Harometer, 29.74 f7SS-.^8"'"'] ; thermometer, — 36 f — 37.8" C.|. Made a satisfactory
meal this morning of chocolate, Americ.m bread, and butter. .Supper to-night consists of 7J/J ounces of
bread, 4 of bacon and tea. Mv a|)petite is now somewhat small, ami [ get along ipiite well on the rediu ed
allowance. My face is very thin — my legs like broomsticks; I am getting stronger slowly, but it is very
slowly indeed. I can hardly rise from a sitting posture on my haunches to an erect position To' fmd
myself in this condition is very depressing to my si)irits. Hr.iiiiard opened rum barrel to-day, and found a
deficit of about several gallons in the rum keg. There will be no more issued except medicinally. 'I'here
was an overhauling of several boxes to-day to get out frozen clothing, ^'c, underneath. Frost everywhere,
above, below, and around. Schneider made a confession this morning of having made away with some bread
at difterent times, but denied being < oncerned in the loss of the milk. It is now (|uite light in the middle of
the day. Weather to-day calm. The spirits of the party are very good notwithstanding the fact that six
weeks may find us on this siile of the straits, with no possible way of crossing on account of open water, no
food, and nothing but death before us. Whisler expressed the o|)inion that we shoultl never reach Littleton
Island, but this is the first occasion 1 have heard anything of the kind said. Personal reminiscences last
night.

Fihniary 12. — Barometer, 29.71 [754.62"""!; thermometer below scale. Breakfast — pc.ase stew with
blubber, bread, and tea. Supper — stew consisting of one ounce lime-juice pemmican, 3 of American roast
beef, .Vmerican bread, and tea. We have 57 ounces of bread per week now. i have not very much appetite
now. I went out on the lake to-day with the assistance of Kskimo Frederik, and [am| very weak and very thin.
Day tine, though very cold — calm. Roar of ice heard out in the straits. Rice says this moving ice extends
uj) and down indetinitely. Well, it must close up and allow us to cross over in the course of a {ti.\s weeks
or more, or our days are numbereil. Smoke, dirt, cold, hunger, and every discomfort. I shall be glad when
the end comes, whatever it is to be. I was in very low spirits for some hours after breakfiist, but after-
wards felt better. My mouth is very much parched with the hot tea. The membrane seems very weak.

Memorandum: Lieutenant (Ireely has a pocket pistol of mine, nickel-plated.

Some preparations are under way for crossing the straits when the ice allows.

Ftl'iuary 13. — Barometer, 29.82 [757.41"""!; thermometer, —34 [ — 36.7° C.j. Dense water clouds
out in the straits, running north and south, and a noise of moving ice heard during the day. It is a very
ominous sound — our rations ex])ire before long. Breakfast this morning a stew consisting of i >/^ ounces of
bacon and 2 of bread, besides a little extract meat — very little. Supper — one ounce lime-juice jjemmican and
3 of F2nglish meat in a stew. I have felt out of sorts during the day. The feelings of the party do not seem
to be what they were, though they remain very high considering our deplorable prospects. We now live
from one meal to another. Little is said about the (juick ap|)roach of the .sun. I did not go out to-day .as
there was too much wind. Get chille<l through very easily now. Lieutenant (Ireely turned over to me my
))oc.ket pistol. Rice spoke of the Campbell family during the day. His remarks were (juite interesting. We
are all extremely dirty and greasy.

Ffbniatj 14. — Barometer, 29.64 [752.84"'"']; thermometer, —28 [— 33.3''C.] (at noon), —17 [ — 27.2° C]
afternoon. Breakfast — ox-tail soup. Supper — pemmican and English meat; 3 ounces of bread per man in
stew, and 6 in pl;'.te. We had considerable wind last night, but during t!ie day the weather has been very
good, calm, and bright. Kvidences of ojien water seem to have disajjpeared to a great exten t. The noise of
moving ice could not be heard. I went out to-day a liiile ways oii the lake, but soon came back; a little

TIIK liADY KUANKMN IIAV KXPKDrTION.

41';")

.-ry

tie

exercise is very exhausting;. Talk all ilay on the siihjei t nl' food and dislies. After sii|)|)er Lieutenant
(ireely came over to my i)eil awhile to make ini|uiries almut my health, iVc, He is pulling thrDunh \ >ry
well. He retains his slrenj;th ami tlcsii very well, and also his spirits. We arc all very dirty; my hands ami
face are actually black in color. All our clothes arc « overed with grease and dirt. .Sonic li^ht |ire|iarations
are noinjj; on towards our hoped-for departure for (Ireenlaiid. I liope, almost against hope, that if we are
fortunate enough to find the channel closed, I shall he well enough to get along without hel|».

luhnutiy 15. — Itarometer, 30. oj; [7^1^.75 | ; thermometer, —25 [ -31.7° ('.|. More or less wi<d from

the west. I diil not go out to-day. llreakfast — American hread, coflfee, and liutter. .Supper — • w of 1
ounce lime juice pennni( an, roast beef, bread, and tea. The i:onversation to-day has been kept up very
well. I do little talking, fmding it dilhcult to raise my voice. I fmil myself pursued by iiinui, aimlessness,
apathy, and inditfercnce, produced by luinger, cold, gloom, dirt, and all the niiseries of this existence. 1
am very weak, both physically and morally, and fmd it impossible to shake these sad thoughts olV. How-
ever, to-day my spirits have been better than usual. .\ '.)ri;^ht glow on Itathe Island reported to-day. Hay
after to-morrow the sun will be visible above the hori/on, though not to us here, as the hills will kejp it off
our house for some time to come. We now burn stearine candles unite regularly. 'I'hc .s|)irits of the party
remain very good indeed.

Fibniitry 16. — liarometer, J9.62 [752.33"""]; thermometer, — 18.5 ( — 28.1° C). llreakfast — sou|> of
corn and pease. Supper — bacon, Knglish bread, and tea. I feel almost as hungry now as before supper.
More or less wind to-day froni the west. I went out and took a few steps on the lake, with the help of
I'rederik [Christiansen]. Feel very weak, extremely so, though in other respects |)retty well; though my
condition does not conduce to make my spirits very high. Open water is reported close to Cape Sabine.
There is no noise of moving ice, however. It w.as very bright to-day, and the rcllection of the sun was seen
on Itache Island. The sun does not make us enthuse very much, however; we are too near tlie end of our
rations, with .\ very poor prospect of incre.ising them at Littleton Island. Personal reminiscences to-day by
Lieutenant (Ireely, and mythology by the doctor. Not much talk on the subject of the future. We all
look forward to the fme "son-of-a-gun" and stew to-morrow. Sunday is a re<l-letter day in o^t calen<lar.
My hands are numb with cold, and it is extremely dilHcult to write with dirty hands in this poor light. I
sec no prospects of the straits being closed at the end of the month. To my mind we must fmd game here,
or else receive help from Littleton Island. It will soon all be ilecided, thank Cioil. (lod bless the dear
ones at home, who, I am sure, think and talk daily of me. How often my thoughts wander to ihein and
to the familiar scenes. Oh! would that I had the f.icilities of writing a letter to them.

Fil'iiiaiy 17. — Harometer, 29.42 [747.2 5"'"'[ ; thermometer, — 15 [ — 26.10 C.]. A fme " son-of-a-gun " for
breakfast, thoug)i it had no milk — cracklings, lard, and American haril bread. Supper tn-n ight — fine seal stew
— our last — very thick and filling, comparatively, and American bread. I say filling, though one finishes
the best of these dishes with a great longing for more. During the day Schneider gave some personal remi-
niscences of the coast trade along the New England co.ist, and a general conversation was ke|)t U|) during
the day. Roar of moving ice heard in the straits, and open water reported extending up and down the
straits indefinitely. Sky somewhat overcast, so that we do not see the sun. It is necessary to go up on
Carlington [Bedford PimJ Island to see the horizon to the south. I have remained in the sleeping-bag all
day, my feet being very cold, and I am feeling out of sorts. Nordenskiold's book was reail List night anil
the night before.

Frbniary 18. — Barometer, 29.49 [749.03"'"']; thermometer, noon, —6.5 [ — 21.4° C] ; (later, —2
( — 18.9° C.]). Breakfast — coflfee, bread, and butter, and two ounces of roast beef; this last w.is an extra
issue. Supper to-night — American bacon, bread, and tea. I went out to-day on the lake. Find my.self a
little stronger, but very, very weak still. It was (juite calm. Over the top of the rocks to the south the sky
was a beautiful rose color. Long went out to the northeast for about four miles, he says, taking his gun.
Saw no seals nor .any signs of game, but tracks of one fox. Reports about the ice to day rather contradictory,
but there seems to be more or less open water oflT in the straits. Rice returned from the top of Carlington
[Bedford Pim] Island, as it has been called, where he went to get a look-out. He did not succeed in getting
very good view, on account of the weather turning cloudy, iS:c. He reports top sandy and quite level in
most places. Where it is not so, the little dejjressions are full of snow. Rice reports a great de.al of open
water; could see about eight miles, he thought. Our American bacon, F^nglish meat, corned beef, carrots,
j)ease, i\:c., arc now gone. We are drawing nearer the end of our rations. The prospect of getting more is
rather dismal. We are all very hopeful, however. We won't say die till die we must.

426

TUB LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPKDlTlOlt.

i i

liVt^

February 19. — Karomcter, 29,58 [751.32"""]; thermometer, -|-2. 2 [—16.6 C.]. Hreakfast — ox-tail soup,
bread, ami tea. Supper — stew of one ounce of lime-juice pemmican, three of American roast beef, besides
blubber, and bread. The wind blew (piite hard last night, and during the forenoon to-day. In the afternoon
the wind died away and the day became fine. Hrainard went on the heights and reiiorts open Polar sea
extending up and down, just outside of Sabine, and out as far as the water clouds would allow him to see.
Heard ([uite a roar of the moving ice. The thermometer has ranged to-day as high .is +8.5 [— 13.1° C],
and from that to — 3 [— 19.4° C.|. This evening it is above zero [—17.8° C.J, and we have (juite a drip in the
liut. We now look forward to our meals. We are afraid to look any farther. Ralston seems to be getting
a felon on his finger. (,)uite a number have sore fingers. The [)resent issue-week is a red-letter one. 'I"he
following is a memorandu'.ii of the bread issued: Saturday, 6=6. Sunday, 8=3. Monday, 7 = 7. Tues-
day, 10=6=7. Wednesday, 7 = 7. Thursday. 9=9. Friday, 9=6^4 = 2 '<j. The first number of each of
these, after the days of the week, shows the tot,' amount. The second, the amount in plate. The third,
the amount in stew. Last night Ralston gave us his army experience. Frederick is doing something on the
foot-gear, .and some other preparations are going on slowly in the w.ay of socks, &c., for our Iioi)ed-for de-
parture to the other side.

February y.o. — Harometcr, 29.92 [759.95"""]; thermometer, — 5.5 [— 20.8° C.]. Some wind from the
west to-day. At one time it blew (juite hard. Thermometer at 8 o'clock, — 1 1.2 [ — 24.0° C.]. Ureakfast —
ox-tail soup and chocolate ; and su|)per — lime-juice pemmican (1 ounce), and 3 ounces of meat. The straits
are open, and I see no prospects of their being frozen up so that we can get across. Of course I hope to
the contrary. Of course this means death unless we can find some game here. Long went out hunting
with Frederik, Isskimo, this morning, but saw nothing. Hrainard was up on the hill again. No game nor
tr.acks of game seen except our raven of last tall. It has been dripping badly in here to-day. We live
from one meal to another and look forward to these miserable feasts. The Knglish hard bread, hard and
moldy, tastes better to-day than the Vienna bread I got at the Centennial. The sjjirits of the party are
good and we bear up finely against adverse fate. Our spirits are generally best about meal time.

February 2\. — Harometer, 29.44 [747.76"'"' | ; thermometer at noon, —3 [— i9.4"C.]. Thermometer
has ranged during the day from near zero [— 1 7.8° C. |, to 7 below | — 2 1.7° C. |. Hreakfast — soup of rice and
tomatoes. Supper — lime-juice pemmican and canned meat. Rice went on the hill-si<le to-day and came
back about supper time (2.30 p. ni.), reporting that continuoi. seemed to exist between Sabine and the
opposite cc ist, needing only cold weather to afford a passage acrcws. The spirits of the party visibly aflected
by the news. I was out to-day for a turn on the lake. I find myself a little stronger, but .cry weak. I am
very thin, (lot out my moccasins to-day from under the sleeping-bag. Ralston has a very bad finger, some-
thing like a felon on it. C'onversation during the day on food, dishes, I'vrc. Remarks by Dr. I'avy on
French History. Reading last nigiit of Nordenskiold and McCarthy's History — the last is being re-read.
The sun has not yet been seen, but the sky looks beautiful, and the reflection on liache Island is (|uite <-on-
spicuous. It has been drip[)ing in here to-day and especially to-night tearfully.

February 22. — liarometer 29.51 [749.54"'"']; thermometer, —6 [ — 21.1° C). The range of the ther-
mometer during the day has been about half a dozen degrees, from that near to zero [—17.8" ('.[. lireak-
fast — "son-of-a-gun" and coffee, Sujjper — stew of all pemmican — 4 ounces per man. At noon we had
cloudberries — 2 cans to each mess; but the two hardly made one can, as they had been punched with holes
in some way and were nearly dried out. Our friend of last fall — the raven — lias been seen around again.
We arc waiting to shoot it for fi)od. The "son-of-a-gun" this morning had 20 ounces of lard and about
the same of blubber. The blubber tastes deliciously. In fact, it would be hard to say what does not t;,ste
delicious now. Our food is slowly increased now in some respects — that is, we get a stronger kind of meat.
We watch the cooks, however, in dealing out, like hungry dogs. One never has enough. I went out on the
lake to-day and walked the length of it. 1 am very weak, and have not gotten much stronger since yester-
day. Thank (lod! the end of thi'-; comes l)efi)re very long. It must come to a head one way or another
before very long, Ralston has a coming felon en his finger. Day overcast, but sky clear. Hache Island
and the island to the north of it ipiite visible. Cod protect and take care of my dear father, mother, and
those at home. It dri])s very much inside here of late. The thermometer inside ranges just below zero
[C-entigrade|, and a little above at meals. My feet are all puffed up.

February 23. — liarometer, 30.07 [763.76'"'"]; thermometer, —4 j— 20.0" C.J. The temperature has
ranged just below zero [ — 1 7.8° (.!.| during the <lay. Last night we had a very fierce wind from the east,
which continued this morning, ilrifting consiiierable snow. The storm went down in the afternoon.

„,! J/j::;:^;--::^:^^—

TlIK LADY FRANKLIN HAY KXPEDITION.

427

None went out except the men to cut the ice anil the Kskinio who bring it in. Hreakfast — soup of extract
meat and corn. Supper to-night — KngUsh bacon, 4 ounces, anil hard bread. Sliortly -ifter breakfast this
morning Lieutenant Greely said that he had had a conununication from Lieutenant Kislingi)ury, the suiistance
of which was that the latter ailvised making arrangements to send to Littleton Island, just as soon as an
opportunity offers, the four strongest of the party to get assistance. Lieutenant Kislingbury saw great jieril
in tlu' |)arty proceeding as a body, and thought that four of the best men could go and bring back aid in
the shape of provisions, ^rc. Lieutenant Greely did not endorse his opinion on the subject, and it did not
seem to meet witii favor with any one else. Lieutenant (Ircely announced that his arrangements and prep-
arations simply anticipated starting with the party just as soon as the straits formed a bridge by which we
can get over — the great risk and danger in such an undertaking is, of course, recognized. No reduction
of rations is entertaini';', as what we now get is barely enough, and yet, on the other hand, the rations can-
not well be increased. Our prospects are not good. We now live from one meal to another, and t':e count-
ing of days to dates ahead has stopped completely. A great deal of talk to-day on tlie subject of food.
We discuss every phase of it. I find myself still very weak. I have not been out of the sleei>ingbag to-day.
I am extremely weak and thin, and any effort requires great exertion. It is now ipiitc light. It has been
drii)|)ing inside .all day in a very b.ad way. It kee|)s everytiiing wet and damp.

/'W'/iM/y 24. — Harometer, 29.99 [761.73"""!; thermometer, —13 |— 25.o"('.|. Yesterday's storm con-
tinued until late in the aftqrnoon, blowing and drifting with great violeme. breakfast this morning — a thick
and filling "son-of-a-gun," to which we looked forw.ird ever since that on Washington's birthday, on the 22d.
Sui)per to-night consists of a real feast of e^y^ <ninies of jjcnunican j>er man, 3 > inces of blubber, and 3 of
bread; it will make a grand stew. No bread is issued this evening. Wc have tc.i. I managed to rei)ri'ss my
appetite, and saved two American hard-tack from last night, and a few spoonfuls of " son-ofa-gun " from break-
fast this morning, so as to have a real meal to-night, i ate half of the latter, however, to-day at noon. It is
amazing how pitiable these efforts are to cheat the stomach. I was out this morning for a few minutes. Light
shar[) wind from the west. Somewhat hazy. Barometer falling. Some of the party went on the hill, and
llrainard reports the tlreenland coast very clear to view, and a great deal of open water in pools lies in niid-
ciiannel to the north of Cape Sabine; none was apparent directly between Sabine and Cireenland. I am
gaining strength very slowly indeed. This morning 1 could hardly get u]) from off my haunches when out of
doors, and had to call on Frtderik [Christiansen] for assistance. The spirits of the i)arty remain very good —
wonderfully so considering. We have a little reading e\ery night. It is generally kept up until about <)
o'clock, though many of the party drop off to sleep before that. My feet, as well as those of i|uilc a nundicr,
are all puffed up and swollen, the skin very thick and callous. Dripjiing inside here is pretty mm h stopped
to-day. The doctor is now making some remarks on French history.

Memorandum ; Charlotte of ajjples.

Ralston has a felon.

February 25. — Barometer, 29.45 [748.02"""!; thermometer, —14 [ — 25.6" C.]. Breakfast — S ounces of
American bread, chocolate, and butter yet remaining from last week. Supper — 7 oimces of .American bread,
4 ounces of bacon, and tea, with some butter yet remaining. The meals today have been very fme. The
English bacon this evening was very much liked .ind could not be enough praised. All sorts of extravagant
statements arc indulged in regarding it, though I hold that our situation renders us incapable of judging.
A good deal of wind to-ilay with drifting snow. Blowing all last night. The straits are evidently all open.
We are making |)rcparations, of course, however, in the way of getting fool-gear, I've, ready, but the time
approaches when we shall be out of rations, and then, unless wc get seal, we arc done for, in my private
opinio:\ for I see no chance of crossing the straits on the ice, though in this I hope I am mistaken. I have
been ui) 'wice to-day for exercise, though I did not go out. 'i'herc is now a good deal of light, though
the sun ha 1 not been seen directly. How often I think of those dear ones at home, and my own familiar
table of sirs of the past present themselves. My spirits were low all this morning, but are much better this
evening. This ile[)ression seems to accompany my loss of physical strength. The range of the thermom-
eter inside !tere to-day has been about 40; from about -I-13 [—10.6° C'.| to -I-40 \.\..\" ('.]. Outside it. has
been from - 10 [ — 23.3° C.J this evening to —37 [ —38.3° C! this morning.

Fibrutiry id. — Barometer, 29.81 [757.16"""!; thermometer, —13 [—25.0" C.J. 1 missed the reading
last night. Have gone to sleep shortly after the supper several tii ics of late and slept through. Breakfast —
ox-tail soup with extract meat. Supper — fine slew, consisting of 3 ounces roast beef, 1 of lime-juice pcmmi-
can, 3 of bread, some blubber, potatoes, &c. We had 5 ounces of bread in the plates to each man. It was

'128

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

"i I

■ ;l '

only wanting in the usual respect — not enough of it. We look forward all day to supper, and then to break-
fast the next morning. It is all we have to live for apparently. There is little talk uf our ' umeiliate future.
We all seem to dread it. In fact, unless we succeed in getting game on this side, we are • ry likely to share
the fate of Franklin's exi)edition. Day calm and cloudy. .\ great deal of water in the straits between here
and the opposite shore. I went out to-d.ay with the help of Frederik, F-skimo, and took a walk to tiie end
of the lake. I am regaining strength very slowly indeed. I am very, very weak. Well, every day brings
us nearer the end of this, whatever the end is to be, and I am glad of it. The conversation of the party i's
now constantly on the subject of food again, restaurants, iVc. The raven was seen to-d.ay. Would that I
could write a letter to my dear father and the dear ones at home, but it is impossible, under the present cir-
cumstances, to i)ut down more tlian these notes.

Fehnuvy 27. — Harometer, 29.90 [759.45"""]; thermometer, —22.5 [—30.3° C.]. The thermometer lias
since fallen as low as —27 [ — 32.8° C.]. 'I'he day bright and fine. The sky to the east very clear, and it
is thought that the sun migiit be seen from the hill, but those who went up tliere were dis.appointcd. lireak-
fast — soup of ij^ ounces bacon and 3 of bread, with ciiocolate. Supper to-night — 3^ ounces roast beef
and half ounce pemmican. Our canned stuff is gradu.ally going, and the variety of rations will soon be
gone. We now have the strongest left. We shall soon liave a shut-down, and I am not sorry for it. The
doctor made some remarks on French history to-day. I was out on the lake this morning.

Memorandum: The chronometer in my pocket is the one used on tiie trip to 83° 24', and on all my
trips in this region. My intention is to buy it, and in case I do not get back I would have it purchased and
kept in my family.

Ffbruaiy 28. — Barometer, 29.92 [759.95"""!; thermometer, — 26.5 [ — 32.5° C.]. Breakfast — ox-tail
soup and tea. Supper — roast-beef stew with 3 ounces of bread in it. iiread and butter issued to-night for
morning. Day calm and clear. Walked down to the end of the lake \\ ih Frederik [Christiansen]. Felt a
little stronger than usual. I got three pieces nearly whole hard-tack in my plate to-night, with some small
pieces, in all making about four hard-tack or less, and asked Lieutenant Cireely if this was siipposed to be
six hard-tack. My (piestion was misunderstood as a retlection on the cook or on Brainard. Conversation
on tlie subject of food to-day. F'.verybody here thinks himself a cook.

February 29. — Barometer, 30.01 [762.24' ]; thermometer, —31 [— 35.o°C.|. Breakfast — t^offee, bread,

and butter. Supper — stew of blubber, roast beef, lime-juice pemmican, and bread; 3 ounces of bread in
tlie stew and two dog-biscuit in the plates. These are the last dog-bis?:uit. Weather calm and clear, though
ha/y in the straits. It looks very much as if the straits were now bridged, but it is impossible to make out
the (ireenland shore as yet. The small sledge was brought in to-day and lashed. F'.lison is doing well.
The ends of the bones of the legs will have to be cut off. The canned stuff and many things are now giving
out. i)ur rations are getting near the end of the string. Was out to-day for a walk. Put on a pair of
.soldier pants instead of mole-skin. We burn about four barrel-staves to each day. Talk all about food,
&c., to-day. We are to have another grouj) taken on returning to Washington, to be taken on Sunday, and
we are to have a lunch of beans and brown bread at tlie photograpliii; gallery — Rice's.

I^farch I, Sa/itrtfdY. — Barometer, 29.92 [759.95' |; thermometer, —29.5 [ — 34.2° C.]. The thermom-
eter has ranged from —35 [ —37.2" C] to — 28 [ — 33.3° C] during tiie day. Weather, with more or less wind
from the west; hazy over the straits. Breakfast tiiis morning — ox-tail soup, l)read, and tea. Supper —
English bacon, bread, and tea. I have not been out to-day for exercise on account of the wind, but was up
for three-quarters of an liour in the alley-way. Doctor Pavy reported to Lieutenant Greely this morning
that I had resumed the use of tobacco. This is entirely false. Dr. Pavy came over and examined my
mouth before doing so. I gave up my tobacco at Lieutenant Greely 's reciuest, one piece to the latter and
tiie other to Frederik, F^skimo.

March 2. — Barometer, 29.69 [754.11"""]; thermometer, —24 [—31.1° C.J. Breakfast — fine " son-ofa-
gun," with a good deal of blubber in it; very filling; we have raisins for one more; coffee. Supper will
consist of stew of three and a half ounces dog pemmican and one ounce of lime-juice pemmican. 1 saved
a can of my " son-of-a-gun " and ate it at noon. Suffered with cold feet last night. To-day one of my feet
is extremely painful — all puffed up and very sensitive to the touch. It has been blowing hard all day from
the west. It is a matter of doubt how much this last storm has broken up the ice in the straits. We are
all very resigned, however, and take things ipiietly. Our supplies are gradually decreasing. Last of the
lemons issued to ■\xy and the last of the milk, i.\:c. Talk during the day on miscellaneous subjects, and
not altogether on the subject of food, as usual.

§ N'

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

429

iikI

.^fivrh ^, — Barometer, 29.79 [756.65"""]; tliermoineter, — 26 [— 32.2° C.J. Breakfast — l)rcacl, butter,
and cijfTce. Supper — English bacon, bread, and tea. It blew hard last night and has blown more or less
during the d.ay until near the present hour. Open water is reported as seen from the hill towards Sabine.
I think it .piite probable that it is all open between here and Littleton Island. I was over in Lieutenant
Oreely's bag for some time this morning. Lieutenant Oreely announced this morning that we could con-
tinue on present rations to the i6th instant, and up to that date still have enough to cross with. That we
were then, however, to make up our minds to getting rations here. We have enough rations to carry us to
the first week in April. Lieutenant Clreely proposes to send a i)arty uji to Alexandra I larbor towanls the end
of the month to hunt, and also some parties in the vicinity of Sabine. I shall be glad when the shut-down
comes, bring us what it may. I am getting stronger rapidly, I think. I have not been out to-day on account
of the wind. Our last cloudberries go next Friday. Three more issues of lime-juice. Many other things
are running out; our vegetable stews will soon be gone.

March \. — Barometer, 30.09 [764.27"'"']; thermometer, —22 [— 30.0° C.]. Breakfast — fine stew of
corn, blubber, potatoes, hard bread, &c. Supper — stew of pemmican and roast i)eef, mostly the latter. The
bread is to be reduced to fifty-six ounces, a reduction of about an ounce. Other small reductions in our
rations will be made. Our canned stuff will soon all be gone. Blowing and snowing to-day, and signs of
open water seen by Brainard indistinctly. It is cold and uncomfortable inside here, and a great deal of frost
comes constantly. Conversation on the subject of food all the time, morning, no(jn, and night. Thank
Goil! the day is fast approaching when we shall see the end of all this. The wood still holds out very well.
It is very fortunate, as we are enabled to have our food mostly heated.

March 5. — Barometer 29.95 [760.72"""]; thermometer, —23 [ — 30.6° C.]. Blowing very hard ])retty
much all during the night and during the day to-ilay, with drifting snow; very disagreeable, lireakfast this
morning — fine stew of corn, &c. Supjier to-night — stew of 2 ounces bacon, 2 J<$ lime-jui( e iienunican, and 1 ]^
of roast beef; 4 ounces in all. The bacon is rancid, but we enjoyed the tasie; hsst night it made Biederbick
sick at the stomach, and he threw up his sujiper. The wood holds out well. Last issue of butter, soup, and
extract of meat are made. The end of this month will be very critical. I am glad of it, whatever the end is to
be. 1 have no desire to postpone the end, if that end is a death by starvation. Thermometer inside the house
on rising this morning was +19 [ — 7.2° C.]. It has been very cold and (hilly inside here to-day, owing to
the high wind outside.

March 6, — Barometer, 29.56 [750.81"""]; thermometer, —22 | — 30.0° C.]. Blowing and windy through
last night ; it continued until about noon, when it gradually became calm. .\ great deal of wind [water] reported
in the straits by those on the hill, as shown by a heavy line of dark clouds running north and south, marking
the open water. There is no doubt tiiat the straits are oi)en, though how far tiiis open water is from Sabine,
or just how wide it is, is difiicult to say. Brainanl and Rice usually g(i out on the hill every day aiul take a
survey of the scene. I have not been out for some days, but get up and stump around inside lie- twii e a
day. I am gradually recovering my strength, but feel de|)ressed and in low spirits, usually iluring the after-
noon — a feeling I caniiot shake off. I suppose short rations and my convalescing condition have something
to do with it. Some work done to-day on the sledge and on the foot-gear, to prep; for our dcjiarture. I
do not think we shall have an opportunity of crossing, and I think the party are losing confidence. ( )ur
hopes nui-'l depend upon being able to get game heie. Conversation (hiring the day on the subje( t of food;
this is our constant theme. We have re;uling every night, anil occasionally something out oi" a book t)f
statistics.

Menuirandum : Stuffed eggs a hi Paris. " "*

Last of our soup (ox-tail) eaten this morning for breakfast. Supper to-night — bacon stew ; 1 ounces bacon,
\)/, of roast beef, and y^ ounce pemmican, with a few pieces of hard bread and a little blubber. ( )ur blul)l)er
is almost gone; b.acon rancid, and we eat the tallow in wiiich it ((jmes. lioih are very strong and spoiled,
but we eat them with relish. How often my thoughts waniler homeward to the dear ones there and the old
family scenes. Oh, Cod! how many years of my life I would give to be there.

March 7. — Barometer, 29.59 [751.57"""!; thermometer, — 16 (—26.7" C.]. Breakfast — 4)j ounces
bread, and our la.st chocolate. The bread consisted of two whole crackers, two halves, and some pici es aljout
ecjual to three-ciuarters of another cracker. At Fort Conger, 16 or 17 cr.ackers were considered lo ei|ual a
pound; here the bread seems to be very heavy. !■ upper — stew of bacon, |)emmican, and roast beef. Our
last cloudberries issued to-day. Day clear and calm; 1 went out this morning on the lake. Long went out
hunting to-day, and continued on down to Brevoort Island; he did ncjt get back until after Biederbick had

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

commenced to cook dinner in his place. He saw two old bear tracks, also fox tracks. Rice was on the hill
and saw two ptarmigan; sent for the gun, but the birds flew away. The sun was seen for the first time this
morning. The water in the straits is re|)orted somewhat different — closing in a litde, but accounts are con-
flicting. Clreenland shore is invisible. Heavy water-clouds hang over the middle of the .straits, running north
and south. Kislingbury went out to the ice-berg, about three-quarters of a mile from shore; saw some old
bear tracks. Found a heavy current under the ice, and the ice very thin in places; broke through, but <liil
not get wet. Our chances look rather poor at present, but with the increase of sunlight we ought to get
seals.

J/rt/-£'/< 8.— Baromvter, 29.48 [748.78"""]; thermometer, +3 [— 16.1° C] after breakfast. Breakfast —
rice soup (the last of the rife), tea, and 4^ ounces hard bread. Supper — bacon, 4 ounces, 4^ ounces of
bread, and tea. It blew with great violence last night, and a fierce storm has been raging all day, blowing,
snowing, and drifting. No one but Linn and the Eskimo [Jens], who went for ice, have been out of doors.
Conversation pretty lively to-day. Ralston has a carbuncle on his finger, but it is getting better. Henry has a
sore foot, (iardiner is nearly well, but still on the convalescent list. These, with Elison and myself, are the
only ones sick or unwell. I have been in jiretty good spirits to-day. Generally feel pretty low down in the
morning, after breakfast. Last night I had a lew unpleasant words with Lieutenant (Ireely about proposal to
change the stews. Both of us were rather fi.\ed. This constant hunger is very i)roductive of ill-temper.

March 9. — Barometer, 29.74 [7S5-38"""J; thermometer, —7 [—21.7° C.]. Breakfast — "son-of-a-gun"
without milk or raisins, but ijuite filling notwith.standing, with 30 ounces of Lard, some blubber, and a thin jthit
of chocolate. Suij[)er to-night is pemmican stew of 5 ounces, which promis'.'S to be very good. The issue for
lard for Monday, Wednesday, antl Friday next is to be % of an ounce for each day. This it has been deciiled
to carry over for the ".son-of-a-gun" next Sunday. Conversation all day about food.

March 10. — Barometer, 29.94 [760.46"""] ; thermometer, —8.5 [—22.5° C.]. Windy last night and during
the afternoon, but after that it cleared off and now bids fair to be fine weather. Breakfast — chocolate anil
bread. Supper — bacon and bread and tea. Long leaves to-morrow for Alexandra Harbor with Ivikimo
Erederik, to hunt for game. He takes six days' rations, at the rate of half pound of meat (pemmican and
bacon) 10 ounces of bread and tea, also a pint of rum. Rice and Brainard went out to-day and report water
in the straits near Sabine. Ai>parently (juite a narrow channel with ice in it. (Ireenlantl shore (juite distinct.
We need now very cold weather to have any chance of the straits freezing over. We have pretty much con-
cluded that the chances of the .straits freezing over are very poor. Bacon now on three afternoons every week,
cokl. Our fuel must be economized. (Jur rations will last about four weeks longer. After that we must git
game or tuni up our toes.

March 11. — Barometer, 29.99 [7^i-73"""]; thermoineter, —15.5 [—26.4" C.]. Breakfast — corn stew
(our last corn), 5 ounces bread, and tea. Supi)er — stew of 4 ounces of meat, 2 of b.icon, i^ roast beef, ^3
ounce ])emmican, 2^ ounces bread (i^^ in plate and i on the stew); also tea. Day very fine, calm and clear.
Long and Frederik, Eskimo, got off this morning before 9 o'clock. Rice and l-lUis started about 8 a. m. and
l)ulled the small sledge for them as far as Cocked Hat Island. 'I'he sun was seen to-day just over the hill. I
was out and went on the hill, the farthest I have been since November last; did not see the sun. The (Jreen-
land shore is visible to-day, and the land in other directions very clear. Ajjpe.arances indicate that the .straits
will be frozen over if this calm weather contiinies with cold temperature. The spirits of the party are high.
We have reading every night still. Many books have been read through.

March 12. — Barometer, 29.95 [yfJc.?^ j; thermometer, —22 [—30.0^ C.|. Breakfast — ^y, ounces of

hard bread and a pint of tea. Supper^4 ounces bacon, i^ of roast beef, and ^ ounce lime-juice jjemmiian,
maile into a stew. We have with this 2^'^ ounces of hard bread, i^ in the plates and the other ounce in the
stew. I took a walk to the hill to-day after breakfiist, and was up again in the alley-way just before dinner.
Weather ([uite calm about here, with only a slight air stirring from the west. Line of white clouds in the
.straits. Brainard walked down to Cape Sabine. Found a storm raging in the straits, and discovered a good
deal of open water. No game seen and no signs excei>t tracks of a fox. Lieutenant Creely came over this
morning and got into Biederbick's bag. Frederick was engaged in impairing that of his. Talk to-day on the
subject of food, bills of fare, dishes, i!v:c. (lermany and New Kngland we hear a good deal of in this respect,
through Hiederbick and Lieutenant Cireely respe(~tively. (lood deal of drip inside here of late, and also a great
deal ot smoke, Ti\c two together add greatly to the discomfort about meal times. I am getting stronger
slowly.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

431

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March 13. — Barometer, 30.01 [762.04"""]; thermometer, —16 |— 26.7° C.]. Breakfast — stew of i
ounce bacon per man, with a little e.xtract meat and the la.st of the hluhher, ami 2 oiiiuxs hard bread in it.
Supper — 4 ounces bacon and 5 of hard bread. All of our cotTee and <:iio< olale are now t;""i-'. ^I'ld canned
vegetables. We are reduced pretty much to peiuinic;an, bacon, bread, and tea. The breakfast stew had one-
third tea-spoonful of potatoes per man, which is the last of the potatoes. Weatiier to-day calm and clear. Sun
sliining brightly. It came out over the hill and was seen by those out at noon. Long and I'"rederik,
Eskimo, returned unexpectedly about 7.15 p. in. Long reported that they went to .\lexandra Harbor, but
were unable to get in the sleeping-bag, and had not had any sleep since leaving on Tuesday last. The bag
was found frozen hard. They were able to get their feet down up above the knees, but that was all. They
took little naps standing, one at a time. Saw no game whatever, and no tracks except those of one fox.
Buchanan Strait seemed to Long to be clo.sed up to the west by high mountainous land, but he could not be
sure. The distance accomplished and the trij) was most remarkable. Ptarmigan tracks seen near the house
to-day.

March 14. — Barometer, 29.92 [759.95"""]; thermometer, —16 [—.6.7° C.J. Mreakfast — pint of tea
and 4^ ounces of hard bread. Supper — stew of 5 ounces ICnglisli pemmican, 2)4 ounces of hard bread
(in plate), and pint of tea. Brainard went out to-day and shot three ptarmigan near the house. Their
tracks were first seen some two or three days ago. This looks like a good omen, and goes a little way as
an offset to the damper made by Long's want of success. I saw the sun to-day for the first time — the first
time since October 23 last. Some of the others have seen it a few 'i^s ago. Leads of open water in the
straits are reported freezing up, but the grinding of ice in tlie sti :' . is heard nevertheless. Lieutenant
Greely announced to-day that we could live here for four weeks incjre on substantially our present rations.
This of course would leave nothing for crossing. Our only hope lies in getting seal.

March 15. — Barometer, 30.10 [764.53"""]; thermometer, —22.5 [—30.3° C.]. Breakfast — stew of one
ounce bacon and 2^ hard bread, with pint of tea. Sufiper to-night — 6^ ounces bread and 4 ounces roast
beef. Our hard bread is to be cut down from to-day to 50 ounces per man per week. Kislingbury was
around to-day by a pool of open water some three miles from shore, and reports fresh bear tracks about
three miles from shore. He also saw five dovekies. Reports the condition of the straits is encouraging.
Appear.ances would indicate that a few days of cold calm weather will put them so that we can cross. The
weather to-day has been calm and bright, very pleasant for some time past. Rice went over to Rosse Bay
yesterday and returned by way of Cape Sabine. He found a practicable route over to Rosse Bay ; can go
over there in about the same time it takes to reach Long's Point. I went out to-day, but did not feel so
strong as yesterday. My foot has been hurting me a good deal to-day. I feel in the morning and after-
noon freiiuently a dreadful depression which I cannot shake off.

March 16. — Barometer, ; thermometer, —28 [—33.3° C], at i o'clock. Breakfast this morning —

fine " son-of-a gun," 6 ounces of bread, and 4 ounces lard per man, very rich and oily. Supper — stew of
5 ounces of meat, 3 ounces of pemmican, 2 of ptarmigan, and 2^ of bread per man. These three ptar-
migan shot by Brainard weighed 3^ pounds dressed — that is, with the entrails, bones, and feathers excepted,
though we ate everything. Some of the entrails were not entirely squeezed. Long and Frcderik [Chris-
tiansen] went out to-day to the berg where there is an open-water pool, and Long shot four dovekies with
the shot-gun. They are nice food. Their plumage is white, mostly white. They saw a seal, and Fred-
erik [Christiansen] shot at him, but missed the animal. This success raises the spirits of the party wonder-
fully, and tonight we are feeling very sound again. Long's want of success at Alexandra Harbor rather
threw a damper on us. I was not out to-day, but only up in the alley-way to stretch my legs. It now drips
very badly at every meal. The temperature inside here just before breakfast time, -f 28 or +29 [ — 2.2 or
— 1.7° C.]. The kayak was taken out to-day and the birds secured by means of it.

March 17. — Barometer, 30.10 [764.53"""]; thermometer, —22 [ — 30.0° C.]. Breakdist — 4j^ ounces
hard bread with tea. Supper — 5 ounces of bacon, 2^^ of bread, with the tea; 7 ounces of bread ilaily now.
All our coffee and chocolate is gone and all the canned stuff. Nothing now remains but pemmican, bacon,
and roast beef. Brainard found a large box containing 10 ounces of English chocolate. Kislingbury
went with Jans [Jens] out to the water-pool to-day and saw a seal, but got nothing. Kayak taken along
and carried back again. The four dovekies gotten yesterday weigh just one pound apiece. This morning
as Jans [JensJ was about starting out, he saw and shot a ptarmigan near the house — quite a fat bird and
weighs I ^ pounds. Sun shining brightly to-day. Wind in tlie straits, but nothing to amount to anything
here until this evening, when it blows from the northwest at about five miles [about 2"' per second]. I was

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432

THE LADY FRAXKLIJf BAY KX1M:IHTI()N'.

out to-day for a walk oi\ the lake and felt much stronger. Was up ia the alley-way for between two and
three hours. 'I'he spirits of the party are very good. All seem confident of being able to get seal meat, &c.,
and thus support life. We have about given up hope of the straits closing so as to allow us to cross. The
conversation is chiefly about food. Reading every night. Hayes' boat journey and the Challenger Expe-
dition have been read for some time. Hayes is voted a fraud.

Memorandum: Anne riUi-r, Citron jjreserve.

March i8. — Barometer, 29.75 [755.64' ]; thermometer, —13 [ — ^5.0° C.]. Overcast and somewhat

cloudy. Storm in the straits from the southwest. Breakfast — 5 ounces of hard bread and a pint of tea.
Supper — stew of 4 ounces of meat, ij<$ ounces bacon, i^/^ of roast beef, )4 of lime-juice jjemmican, and y^
ptarmigan. Talk all the day on the subject of food. There has been a constant stream of conversation ever
since breakfast. I saved about half of my bread this morning to sujjplement tlie stew to-night. This stew
has 2 ounces of bread in it; none issued in the plate. Did not go out of doors to-day. No one went
hunting. The raven came around to-day, but was loo wary to be shot. The straits all broken up; no
chance, in my mind, of our crossing. Frying in lard, compared with frying in bacon, was heavily argued
this morning.

March lej. — Harometer, 29.95 [7''0.72' |; thermometer, —10 [ — 23.3"(^.]. lireakfast — 5 ounces of

hard bread and a pint of tea. Of tiie haril bread, I saved most for supper. Supper — a stew of 4 ounces of
meat, 2 of iiemmican, ijj bacon, and j^ ounce of dovekie. It was stormy and windy lust night. Con-
tinued most all day with a good deal of drift. No one went out but the ice men, &c. A\'ind from the
southwest. Straits all broken u[). I took my e.xercise in the alley-way. I have felt in better spirits to-day
than usual. The talk now is incessantly .about food, dishes, and eatables. Thermometer this morning, just
before breakfast, inside the house, +25 [ — 3.9° C.]. Our wood \vill be gone to-morrow or the next day,
and we shall have then to burn stearine, the Utile there is, followed by alcohol.

.\[a>xh 20. — Barometer, 30.15 [;o5.8o"""J; thermometer, — 15 [ — zd.v C.]. More or le.ss win<l
to-day. Cold and chilly in the house. It is more uncomfortable inside here when the wind blows, though
witii a comparatively high temperature, than when the tem[)erature is low and calm. Long went out to the
water-iiool, but saw nothing but two dovekies — got nothing. Rice went out to the P [Beebe] cache with a
net, and came back at supper time with a few ounces of shiim[)s. We hope to be able to get shrimps
enough to help our rations. Breakfast this mornmg~r-our last morning stew. It consisted of i ounce of
bacon, 2j^ of bread, and tiie last of the i)()tatoes and thi; extract of beef. Supper to-night — 4 ounces of
bacon and 4^ bread. Tiie raven was seen to-day by Rice. Henry saw flying overhead what he thought
was an owl or falcon. Our fuel gives out to-morrow, all exceiit tlie whale-boat. We shall then commence
cooking with the alcohol. Schneider has made 222 stearine candles since February 16.

March 21.— Barometer, 30.08 [764.02"""]; thermometer, —19 [—28.3° C.]. Breakfast — \\-2, ounces
of bread with a cup of tea. Supper — fine stew or soup of \\^ ounces of American pemmican, v.ith 3 of
bread in it ; none in the jjlates nowadays in the evening, except on bacon nights. It has been blowing
and drifting all day, and the sun overcast most of the time; the air filled with a kind of haze. No one
has been farther than just outside the door. Brainard has been occupied in making a net to catch shrimps;
it is baited with part of a dovekie. Rice got a few ounces yesterday, but they are very small, and it will take
a good many to go any ways as food. Lieutenant Kislingbury has an inflamed finger, probably a felon
coming on. Ralston's finger is improving slowly, I believe. The time draws near when our group comes
to an entl. We look on it with e(iuaniinity, and the spirits of tlie I'arty, with this prospect of a miserable
death, is certainly wonderful. I am gkid as each ilay draws to an end. It puts us nearer the end of this
life — whatever that end is to be. How often I think of those at home, and of what they are doing. Oh,
Cod! that I could be with them for a few hours only. Would that it were possible to write down all my
thoughts here at length for the benefit of those at home, in case of the worst. The fuel, all except the
boat, is about gone — ends with to-morrow. We will then commence on alcohol. " Double-barrel " stew
to-night — that is, two pots which nearly fill the plates, and comes somewhere towards giving one enough to
eat. Fridays and Sundays we have two pots, and on other stew nights only one. Talk all the time on the
subject of food. It forms almost thi whole subject of conversation.

JAm// 22.— Barometer, 29.90 [759.45]; thermometer, 3.5 [ — 19.7° C.]. Breakfast — \)2 ounces hard
bread with tea ; supper — 5 ounces bacon, partly tallow, and 2)/^ ounces hard bread. Saved over nearly
half my hard bread from morning to-night. I find these cold meals of hard bread and bacon the most
satisfactory of the week — even more so than the Sunday evening stew. Quite a number of the j)arty have

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THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

433

the same experience. I sleep better and feel warmer. Waked u[) this morning at 2^ a. m., and slept very
little afterward. After a supper of bacon, frequently sleep through till after 5 o'clock, even when I dropped
asleep the night before very early. Long went out hunting on the ice to-day with Jans [Jens], but saw
nothing, and got nothing. He went out on the ice two or three miles from h.nd. Reports seeing noth-
ing but sludge ice and young ice extending as far as he could see. Saw no open water except at the berg.
Appearances would indicate a jam in the straits. Rice went down to-day to the creek near the P [Beebe]
cache, and got some half-dozen ounces of shrimps. These shrimps are very small. He got back just pfler
supper. Our talk is constantly about food, &c. One can fix his mind on nothing else. P'rederik, Eskimo,
and Jans [Jens] have swelled faces. I was out to-day on the lake. Some wind to-day, and the sky over-
cast And snowing at times.

Miinli 23. — Barometer, 30.00 [761.99"""]; thermometer, —10 [—12.2° C.J. Breakfast — 4^4 ounces
hard bread and tea. Supper — 'ine stew of 5^ ounces meat with 3 ounces bread in it. The dovekie
supplied about i ounce per man and pemmican in the rest. I brought over from breakfast a little hard bread,
as usual. This allowance of bread is a most insignificant amount. The hard bread weighs he.ivy, and one
cracker with a few pieces seem to make up the \]^ ounces. Lieutenant Greely announced this morning
that we would run along on the present ration until April 6, and then by cutting down to 3 ounces of
meat per day, without bread, we could exist, until about May i. This is more encouraging. Our present
ration is so small, however, that it remains to be seen what the effect of any further reduction will be. We
are hungry all the time. It is impossible to fix one's thoughts for any length of time on anything but food.
We have various seal skin articles of clothing, foot gear, some stearine, &c., which we now talk of eating.
Long and Frederik (Eskimo) went hunting to-day out beyond the berg. Saw nothing but one dovekie
and a bear track about two days old. Also a fox track. Long reports the ice moved out. Open water out
beyond Sabine. Brainard went down to Rosse Bay, but saw nothing but tracks of a fox and a ptarmigan.
Reports open water stretched from Cape Isabella towards the north. No open water around the bergs in
Rosse Bay. Traveling on the ice of the bay very good. Brainard started soon after breakfast and got
back to dinner. Rice went down to the P [BeebeJ cache after shrimps this morning, and again just before
dinner. He returned just after dinner quite successful. He got about three pints — that is, an English meat-
can — full of shrimps. These shrimps are very small — about one-sixth of the size of the ordinary canned
shrimps. Bender and Schneider made a dip-net for him to-day, and also some other implements to catch
them. Rice went down again after dinner to try to catch some more. We resumed cooking by alcohol to-day
at dinner; it takes longer than by wood. All the wood is now gone except the boat itself, &c. Bender
made a fish-hook to-day, and Connell is going to try fishing to-morrow. The temperature inside here, just
before breakfast this morning, was +29 [— i.7°C.j. Yesterday morning it was -f- 25 to-|-26[ — 3.9 to
— 3.3° C.j the morning before.

March 24. — Barometer, 29.97 [761.22™"']; thermometer, —16 to —22 [—26.7 to —30.0° C.]. Slept
well last night, not waking up until just before 5 o'clock. Alcohol lamps lighted at 6 o'clock. It was 7.30
when Biederbick's tea boiled, and he had issued the first cupful when he suddenly fainted. He was carried
to his sleeping-bag. Then Israel fainted, and Long and several others. We all began to feel the effects
of the alcohol fumes in the close house. Those able to, got out in the alley-way, and the rest were helped
out. Jewell, Connell, Brainard, &c., fainted as soon as they reached the cold air outside. I got out
to the end of the alley-way to help Jewell, when I found myself suddenly affected. I did not lose
consciousness, but became like one paralyzed. We gradually came back inside the house. Most, if not all,
of the party were given a mouthful of tea, and a drink of rum was isued all around. Biederbick and Israel
came near death's door, the doctor says. None of the oarty that were not more or less affected. Just
before dinner time it was discovered that some one had taken advantage of tiie situation this morning to
steal about half a pound of the bacon of Biederbick's mess, and deep are the curses which rained down
upon this brute. The allowance of bread has been increased slightly this evening. Breakfast consisted of
4^ ounces of bread; and supper, according to schedule, would be 2^ ounces. At supper this evening the
two hatches in the boat are kept open, and the door slightly, so no trouble is found. Henry is sick at the
stomach, but was affected before si-pper time, he says. Fine day to-day, as well as yesterday. Eight half
gills of shrimps to-day weighed 14 ounces. Fox tracks seen around to-day. Rice went down to the tide
crack at 3 o'clock this morning and brought back 2 pounds mor^ of shrimps. No one out to-day farther
than the lake.

H. Mis. 393 28

434

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

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March 25. — Barometer, 30.00 1761.99"""]; thermomct'.-r, —16.5 [ — 26.9° l'.|. Hreakfast — 5 ounces of
hard bread with tea; saved over about' 2 ounces for supper, as usual. Sup|)er — stew consisted of .^ ounces of
.shrimps per man, i^ of rancid tallow, and \'i ounce lime-juice, pemmican with 2 ounces hard bread, 'i'his
stew was i)ronounced excellent by every one, and many went into ecstasies over it, and thought it the best
thing in flavor we have yet had. We were all certainly very agreeably disa|)p()inted in the shrimps. Lieu-
tenant (Ireely estimates that 3 pounds of shrimps are e(iual to 2 pounds of meat. Last night Urainard killed
a fine fo.x wiiich ran over the roof of the house; white in color, weight j^ pounds dressed. The bre.id last
night at supper was incre;i.sed about 5 ounces for that meal, in consideration of the trials of the ilay. Rice
went out again this morning at 3 o'clock, down to the tide-hole and the iceberg, and set his shrim|> nets. He
went out just before dinner to-day, and returned just after dinner with some more shrimps, larger than the
others. Shrimps brought in, in all, by him to date, about 17 ])Ound.s. 'I'he baits used consist of seal-skin, old
bear-skin (socks of Corporal Salor, &c.), feet of ptarmigan, fox-skin, &c. Long and Krederik, Eskimo, went
down to Sabine to-day. Long saw two seal or walrus holes, and is confident of finding seals or walrus out
on the ice near by before long. Frederik, Kskimo, became exhausted and laid down, but fortunately Long
saw him and brought him in. Schnapps and ammonia brought him to all right. After breakfast this
morning pretty nearly every one gave some testimony concerning Henry and the stealing of tiie bacon
yesterday morning. Jans [JensJ testified directly that he saw him take the bacon otT the shelf. Henry
acknowledged that he was sick and threw up bacon, but declared it was after the bacon i.ssued to him
was eaten, and it was this bacon he threw up. Private Frederick testified positively to the contrary of
this, and tiie testimony of a number of us was directly opposite to it. Ii came out also that Henry, at Fort
Conger, opened and made way with canned stufil". Schneider tcstifieil to-day that it was Henry who stole
the milk. Every one of the party was asked his o|)inion, on hearing all the testimony, and every one, without
exception, of the white men of the party, declared his conviction of Henry's guilt. Henry has not been
allowed to leave the hut without a guard, nor to leave liis bag when no light is lighted. We are now using
alcohol. The daylight comes in through the holes above the two stov.es during the cooking, and is cheer-
ful. To-day, for several hours, we got along without candles. We are all confident now of pulling through,
and the spirits of the party are excellent. I was out for exercise to-day, and walked all the way down to
the old hut, the other side of the lake. It has been a beautiful day, bright and warm ; (juite calm. Lieu-
tenant Kislingbury's finger is doing very well. Elison is doing remarkably well. I suiTer a good deal with
swollen feet, which are alternately very cold and feverish, and painful with inflammation.

Afan/i 26. — Barometer, 30.00 [7(51.99"'"']; thermometer, o [—-17.8° C.j. Breakfast — 5 ounces of hard
bread. Supper — stew, same as last night, 1 % ounces of bacon, y^ ounce lime-juice pemmican and 3 ounces
of shrimps. Slept well last night, though several of the party complained of sleeping coUl. This stew has
a very fatty taste. Rice and Jewell went after shrimps this morning, at 4 a. m., but got nothing. The
shrimps do not seem to bite at night. During the evening it commenced to storm, and since it has been
blowing and drifting from the southeast in a very violent way. Fresh ptarmigan tracks seen by Rice on his
return this morning at breakfast time, and three or four went after the bird but did not see him. Brainard
got caught in the storm, and relumed to the hut with difliculty. It makes it particularly cold and uncom-
fortable inside the house; no one has been out of the house since. This morning it was discovered that 10
ounces of P'.nglish chocolate, found by Brainard the other day, and which were placed for the use of Elison
under the boat, were missing. Thorough search made, but it could not be found. Henry was standing, the
other morning, under the place where it was moved again, it seems. Circumstances all seem to point towards
him, but it is not certain. We burn two alcohol lamps. Linn started in, instead of Biederbick, as cook
this morning. Biederbick has certain symptoms of ana;mia, and the doctor thinks he hail better rest a few
days.

March 27. — Barometer, 30.08 [764.02'"'"]; thermometer, —8 [ — 22.2° C.]. The storm continued with
great violence until about midnight, when it ceased. Suffered a good deal with my feet, one of which was
inflamed and throbbed with pain all night. Very fine day to-day, calm and char. Long and Jans [JensJ
went out beyond the berg and hail wonderful success. Long shot 38 dovekies, 33 of which he brought in.
They were secured by means of tht* kayak. Five of them flew off" and could not be gotten. Long prom-
ised Lieutenant Greely something to-day in the way of food as a birthday present, and well has he kept his
promise. Rice went down to the tide crack, but only got about -)^ pounds of shrimps up to dinner time. I
was out to-day for exercise on the hill ; am regaining strength slowly. Party all in very good spirits over the
success of the hunters. Frederik, Eskimo, is on the sick list just now. Ellis somewhat sick from eating

THE LADY KHANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

435

"t5

stearinc. Hreakfast this morning — 3 ounces of bread and i ounce of tallow, and ,'3- ounce shrini|)s per man,
made in a stew, a very good stew indeed. Supper — 4]^ ounces bread and 4 ounces of preserved beef.

A/irnA 28. — Haronieter, 30.13 [765.29"""]; thermometer, X. Hreakfast — 4/j ounces of bread and cup
of tea. Sup[)er — fine stew, consisting of 6 ounces of shrimps, 3 of bread, 1 of tallow, and i-,\ of dovekic.
Rice got 12 pounds of shrim|)s yesterday and no less than 27 pounds to day. Long got 14 dovekies to-day,
and Freilerik, Eskimo, shot one ptarmigan. We all feel jubilant and sanguine of the future in the highest
degree. Long promises 10 dovekies every day, and Ri<;e as many pounds of shrimps. Long saw a smalt
jeal to-day. Jans [JensJ gets the dovekies in the kayak, which is carried out for this |iurpose. Weather
to-day bright and warm and calm. About 9 o'clock or thereabouts it was -{-2 [—16.7° C] in the sun,. and
— 20 [—28.9° C.J in the shade. Hrainard went down to Cape Sabine, but has not returned u\t to dinner
time. Rice went out to his nets at 2 o'clock, but has not yet returned. I was out on the rocks to-ilay near
Cross' grave ; am still weak, but getting stronger daily. We all hope great things from the double-barrel
"son-of-a-gun " this evening. Frederik, Kskimo, came in exhausted today — remained out too long, looking
for another jjtarmigan. The dovekies are all estimated at one pound each. Kllis and I picked birds this
morning for three or four hours. I got chilled through. The wings, heads, and feet of the dovekies are
used as bait for shrimps. Rrainard went to Sabine and found old Kskimo sledge.

Jfiin/i 29. — Harometer, 30.50 [774.69"""]; thermometer, +1 [— i7.2°C.]. Blowing and stormy all
day — wind from the east — snow drifting violently. Breakfast — no tea, but stew of i ounce of tallow, 6 of
shrimps, with 4^<C ounces of bread served separately. Pronounced very fine by every one. Supper — stew
of 1 1 ounces of shrimps, i '/; of dovekie and i ounce of tallow, with 2^^ of bread served separately. Rice
brought in 25 pounds more of shrimps late last night. To-day Rice brought in 12 pounds. On his way
down he saw a tlock of 6 ptarmigan, and returning for the gun shot one of them. Long went out on the
ice with Jans [Jens] and saw some dovekies, but it blew and stormed so hard he returned. Ciot none to-day.
I have not been out to-day. Slept very poorly last night. Suffered a great deal from my inflamed feet.
Meals to-day very filling and satisfactory. Stearine burned at supper instead of alcohol, and to be burned
hereafter for the present. Hrainard made some shot for rifle out of lead. Fox tracks seen.

March 30. — Barometer, 30.50 [774.69"""]; thermometer about noon, —3 [ — 19.4° C.]. Breakfast — 3^
ounces bread with tea. Stew — 6 ounces shrimps and i ounce of tallow. Supper — no hard bread, but tea, 4-,'3-
ounces shrimps, 4,\- ounces fox, i ounce of tallow, and i ounce of dovekie. The storm continued during the
night and continued during the day with great violence, blowing very hard from the east here to the house.
No one went out during the day except Whisler, whose turn it was to cut ice. After supper the wind died away
to a great extent, and promises to leave us with good weather. Conversation on the subject of food has fallen
off during the last few days, owing to increased food. Lots of water now in the straits. Thermometer this
morning in the house, +2' [ — 6.1° C.]. Very cold inside during the day. I exchanged places in sleeping-
bags with Lynn day before yesterday; returned to my sloeping-bag to-night. Biederbick is to resume his
original place to-morrow or next day as cook. Frederik, Kskimo, still under the weather. The rest of us
are doing ([uite well. Helped Ellis to-day to pick dovekies and jitarmigan. Salor sewed skins of dovekies,
heads and feet on a box for bait for shrimps. Large feed of rations shows itself in the opening of our bowels.
Shrimps or shells of shrimps noticed in the stools.

March 31. — Barometer, 30.50 [774.69"'"]; thermometer, +3 [ — i6.i°C.]. Breakfast — 3^ ounces of
bread in plate, a cup of tea, and 4 ounces of shrimps cold and raw. Supper — stew of 5 ounces shrimps, i
ounce bacon and i ounce dovekie per man. We all like the raw shrimps and find them palatable, though
most of the party prefer them in slew. If they are had in stew, however, the cup of tea is to be cut off in
the morning. Storm raging all day with a slight lull about noon. This storm commenced on the evening
of the 28th, and is the worst since the 27th of September last. Long went out to-day and brought in the
kayak. We were all very anxious for him. Jans [Jens] was out and shot some ptannigan, but could not
get any. We are using stearine to-night. This is the regular stew now. Frederick thinks 2)/^ pounds of
stearine to-day for both sides sufficient — evidently he is mistaken. The passage-way drifted u]) to-day. This
wind makes the cold inside the house more perceptible than when we have a low temperature. I moved
back to my bag this morning. Biederbick resumes his place as cook for our mess in the morning. Schneider
is cooking for the other mess this evening instead of Frederick, who complains of having taken a cold.
Frederik, Kskimo, is under the weather. He was given a drink of rum to-day and also last night. The
doctor recommends a slight increase of food for him. A slight increase is now issued Long and Jans [Jens].

436

THE LADY J KANKLIN «AY EXPEDITION.

»!:! 1

i i^

Long saw several dovekies to-day, some three dozen, he says. The open water is encroaching dose to the
I' [Heel)e] ( arhe. Long reports a great deal of open water in tlie straits. I have missed the usual amount
of my exercise during the past few days.

April I. — Maronieter, 30.40 [772.15 J; thermometer, +9 [ — ij.8°C'.J, Hreakfast — 4 ounces of

shrimps, j'j ouni es of bread, with i of bacon, all in the stew together; no le;i. Supper — (i ounies of
bhrimi)s, 1 ounce of bread, i ounce of bacon, i ounce ol dovekie, and a cuj) of tea. Rice brought in 20
pounds of shrimps before supper ; he goes down again after dinner. Long got 11 dovekies. He .saw a
nund)er of seals in the water, and a walrus on th.e i<e. Could not get at the last on account of the young
ice. 'i'he ojien water is now close in to P [Beebe] cache, lirainard went out with a rifle and saw two
ptarmigan. Shot at them with some shot-gun cartridges, improviseil out of rifle cartriilges and lead cut U|) in
pieces, but thougli he got close to them got none. We have all felt cold and chilly to-day, and a depres-
sion is hanging over the party — probably due tr) the short rations of the jiast few days and the indi( ation
had, and the late .storm. To-night Schnei<ler used stearine to cook with, and Uiederbick alcohol. The
stew and the tea of the former were cooked in 89 minutes, and of the last in 75 minutes. I took a walk \\\i on
the hill to-day. Find myself (juite weak. Sky hazy and air calm and clear. Greenland coast visible indis-
tinctly. \Ve feel confident now of getting a seal before many days. Frederick resumes his cooking in the
morning. This miserable life does not improve our tempers, and we are all more or less irritable. Rice is
to bring in some sea-weed, which we are to try as food. 80 pounds of stearine on hand tlie other day when
we commenced to cook with it. The dovekies are skinned and supply the baits for the shrimps. The feet,
heads, and tips of wings are useil also. The dovekies and ptarmigan are counted in weight as a pound eac h.

April 2. — Harometer, 30.63 [777-99"""J; thermometer, — 13 [ — 25.0° C.|. Hreakfast — stew of 7 ounces
shrimps, i ounce of bacon, i^ ounces of bread, and a cup of tea. Supper — stew of 8 ounces shrimps, i
ounce of bacon, 1 y^ ounces bread, 2j^ ounces of dovekie, and a cup of tea. The sky clear and the sun shining
brightly all clay, and wind from the west. Rice brought in 10 pounds more of shrimps last night after
supper, making 30 ])0unds yesterday. To-day he went clown but one e, accomi)aniecl by Private Frederick, and
got 32 |)C)uncls. These shrimps are very small, about the size of caiuied corn, which it very much resendiles.
The lieads, skin, i\:c ., of the dovekies are still u.sed as bait. I.c)ng and Jans [JeiisJ were out hunting to-day,
but got nothing. The ice is crowded in towards the shore and closed up the water-pool; better success per-
hajis to-nioriow. Long .saw several .seals yesterday. Cold and chilly in the house to-day. These shrimps
do not take the place of meat by any means. T was out for daily exercise on the lake. No wind is now
very trying. Was absent from 7 a. m. until supper time tiiis afternoon. 15rainard went out after the ptar-
migan, but did not see them.

Memorandum : Pear cider.

A great deal of talk about food all the time now. We have about exhausted our reading. Biederbick
reads a little out of Nordenskicild's book (expedition to Spit/bergen) every few evenings. We talk a great
deal about food. How often my thoughts wander homewards to the clear ones there. It is now very light
near all night. Connell is going to try fishing pretty soon. Frederik, Eskimo, still complaining and
confined to the house.

April 3. — Barometer, 30.67 [779.00"""] ; thermometer, —8 [ — 22.2° C.J. Breakfast — tea, 1 y^ ounces of
bread, i ounce of bacon, and 473 ounces shrimps per man in a stew. Supper — same as breakfast, with the
addition of ij^ ounces of dovekie, and ;-'i ounces of shrimps. Rice took Salor clown to teach him his way
of catching shrinips. Salor is to relieve Rice when the latter goes after the Knglish meat Sunday. They
are to have 8 ounces pemmican, 6 ounces of bread, and 6 ounces of alcohol per man per day, for six clays.
Jans [Jens] saw a bear track to-day. Long saw only a few dovekies. He got none of them, but two jitar-
migan near the house on his way biick. 15rainard went out to-day for ptarmigan, but got none. I have not
felt very well to-day; felt chilly and out of sorts.

I am losing my appetite for these shrimp stews. Biederbick and one or two others complain of the
same thing. Rice and Salor got 15 pounds of shrimps to day. \v'eather very fine to-day excei)ting light
wind from the west. During the forenoon at .several times the thermometer in the shade showed —8
I —22.2" C], and at the same time -f- 1 5 [ — 94° C. | in the sun. 'J"he (ireenland shore was very distinct to-day.
Brainard counted the rifle cartridges to-day and found 550 on hand and 75 shot-gun cartridges. We have
now on hand about 130 pounds of meat, all counted, excepting shrimps, and about 80 pounds of bread, so
Brainard tells me. About 40 pounds or thereabouts of stearine remains. Frederik, Eskimo, seems in
very low sjjirits. He says he will not get well. Snow in the vicinity of house packed very hard.

TUK LADY FUANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

437

ave
so
in

April ^. — Barometer, 30.59 \nf>')l"""\'> thermometer, —3 [—19.4° C], about. Breakfast — stew of
4 ounces of sliriinps, 1^'^ ouikcs of bread, 1 ounce of l)acon, with a cup of tea. Supper — stew of 5 ounces
of shrimps, i ]^ ounces of bread, 1 ounce bacon, i ;4 ounces of dovekie, and a cup of tea. Morning reported
fine in the niorninji, but chan>;ed suddenly, becoming overcast ; afterwards tlie weather got better. Long
and Jans [Jens] out fiir awhile; l)ut they got nothing. They saw a seal, however, i)Ut only three dovekies.
Sah)r was oilt in place of Rice and got 20 pounds of shrinjps. I find it takes an etibrt to get these shrimps
down, and from one meal to another I have a bad, fatty t.isle in my mouth. I have not felt ipiite as
well yesterday and to-day as before. 'This evening I have taken Kllis's place in the sleeping-bag. He
has mine. Brainard went down to Sal)ine tf)-day; saw a bear-track tpiite fresh and followed it to the broken
ice. Reports o|ien water extending up and down the straits- -north as far as Cape Napoleon. Frederik,
Eskimo, was given a slight increase of rations.

April t,. — Barometer, ; thermometer, —6 [—21.1° (!.]. Frederik Christiansen die<l today.

Breakfast this morning — 1^ ounces of bread, i ounce of bacon, 4 ounces of shrimps, and cup of tea.
Supper — s ounces shrimps, and i;ji ounces ptarmigan, otherwise sanie as breakfast. Salor brought in
to-day i2_}'^ pounds of shrimps. He only workefl one net to-day or he might have got more. Long,
Kislmgl)ury,and Jans [JensJ out hunting, but got nothing nor saw anything. The ice has moved up again
near shore, but there is .itill a great deal of open water. Very fine weather to-day, mostly calm, with a slight
wind at times. Sun shining brightly. Whisler put two windows in the boat to-<lay; it makes a great
difilerence ; everything seeming much more cheerful. One can now see something inside here.

Frederik Christiansen, Kskimo, died unexi)ectedly to most of us at 9 a. m. this morning. He was
taken suddenly worse last night, and everything done for him that suggested itself, 1 believe. He has been
failing for some time past, but still I did not think there was any danger of his death. He was a good man,
and I felt a great affection for him. He constantly worked hard in my service, and never spared himself
on any sledge trip. He was burie<l near Cross at i o'clock to-day. His death makes me feel very sorrowful.
I felt a great difficulty for some time past in eating shrimp stews, and had to force it down to some extent.
Fortunately, Jans [Jens] and I are the only ones affected in this way. 'I'o-day 1 had two passages — the last
of the nature of diarrhea. I find myself still weaker. 'I'o-morrow morning I may be cut off.

April G. — Barometer, ; thermometer, — 2 [— 18.9° C.]. Breakfast — the usual stew for the party,

but I had no shrimps issued to me, which in lieu thereof 1 had about 4 ounces of dovekie, \\\m\\ I ate raw.
Supper to-night consisted of stew of 5 ounces of English pemmican with the usual amount of bread. Tea
at both meals. We now have two windows in the top of the boat; it makes a very cheerful change. .Salor
got 15 pounds of shrimps to-day between noon and dinner time. The hunters shot two seals in the water
and two dovekies, but got nothing. I had a very loose passage this morning in the nature of diarrhea.
Poor Linn is worse to-day. He has been unconscious since about 1.30 p. m. It is now about 5 o'clock.
We are all doing our best to keep up our spirits. Rice and Frederick will leave this evening. We all
complain of being much weaker since eating these shrimps exclusively. I find myself particularly so; am
hardly able to rise without aid. 1 find to write these notes to-night requires a great effort. Brainard, Kis-
lingbury, Ellis, and Whisler went down this afternoon and pulled the small sledge to the top of the rocks or
hill to the south, so as to save Rice that much work. The doctor gives me iron and also opium to-day.
Our talk is constantly about food or the delights of home. Lights are done away with, now that we have
windows. Snowing slightly this evening. Day calm, tiiough slightly overcast. Jewell gave out to-d.-.y
and was unable to cut ice.

April 7. — Barometer, X; thermometer, —7 [ — 21.7° C.]. Breakfast — stew of 6 measure cups of
shrimps, i ounce of bacon, and 1%' ounces of hard bread, and a cup of tea. Supper — stew of 7 measure
cups of shrimps, i ounce of bacon, and i^ ounces of hard bread, and a cup of tea.

Sergeant Linn died at 7 p. m. yesterday. He was unconscious since 2 o'clock in the afternoon. He
was buried to-day by the side of Cross at 9^ this morning. It seems he felt his end approaching and gave
some direction regarding his last wishes. His death was a good deal of a surprise to me. His death has
cast a gloom on the party during the day. He was much liked and highly spoken of by all. The burial
service was read here at the hut by Lieutenant Greely, and then the body taken to the cemetery on the
sledge by Lieutenant Kislingbury, Brainard, Connell, Dr. Pavy, Biederbick, Schneider, and Salor. No vol-
ley was fired over the grave, as was done with Cross. Rice and Frederick left for Eskimo Point to get the
English meat in Baird Inlet at 9 o'clock last night. They took the small sledge ; expect to be back on

438

THE LADY FKAXKLIX UAV KXPEDIXrON.

Saturday. To-day has been overca.st and snowing, hut the teni|)eraturc high — no wind. I find njyself almost
as weak as ever again. I have not l>een out to-day nor yesterday. I took a little exercise in the hut
to-day. Had a few ounces of dovekie issued to nie hist evening and this morning in aildition to the regular
fare. The hunters have made slight addition. We all h.ad a tlrink of alcohol to-day, made up hy Hieder-
hick of 2 parts of water and i of alcohol, flavored with a little ammonia, the only thing Hiederbick had ti)
put in. Jewell is much weaker to-day.

Lieutenant Lockwood discovered Orcenland to be seen northeast for at least lo to 15 miles beyond
the highest point reached (Lockwood Island), latitude 8_^° 24', longitude 40° 45', thus attaining the highest
latitude ever made. Lieutenant Lockwood in 1883 failed to reach Cape Bryant, owing to open water in
Polar Ocean, and from same cause Dr. Pavy failed in 1882 north of Cape Henry. The commanding oft'icer
made important iliscoveries by two trips into the interior of (Ireenland in i88j. In 1883 Lieutenant Lock-
wood crossed (Ireenlanil, from Patrick Hay to (Ireely Fiord, and reached in latter fiord 80" 48' north, 78° 30'
west, anil saw land running south of west about 60 miles, ending in Ca[)e Lockwood. The north side ended
about 10 miles west, and from Lieutenant (Ireely's observation from Mount C. A. Arthur, 4,.i;oo feet [about
1,370"'] high, evidently crosses gradually to extreme point seen by Lieutenant Walbridge (?) [Aldrich, k. N.J.
The party all well and consists of 25 men, all confiden. of ultimate safety. Conybeare Hay opens into H
[Ch.'iniller] Fiord, and thence by R. [Ruggles] River io Lake Hazen, a body of water about 60 by 7 miles
in extent. (Ireenland [Cirinnell Land] is ice-capped lorth and south, except a band of vegetation about 30
[60] miles wide from sea to sea. Kskimo have permai ently lived at the junction of Lake Hazen and R.
[Ruggles] River and other ])oints. Musk-oxen in (juite large numbers found in this land. The ( oast northwest
of Cape Britannia (Nares Land) has been named Hazen Coast; the extreme jKiint north, tape Robert Lin-
coln [Washington]; and the range of mountains to the west of (Ireenland, Ciartield Land.

The mean temperature at Fort Conger, iSSi-'Sj, was —4.95 [ — .'o.s" C.j, the lowest ever known.
The temperature of —0.7 [—18.2° C.j was observed in August, 1883, u(f Hache Island.

Three further records may be looked for in Buvoort Island, and in coal pile in Littleton Island, or at
depot B, of 1882; latter the north side of island.

A. W. Grkk.lv,
Lieulenain, }<ifth Cavalry, Lady Franklin Expfdition.

B. — Copy of record for Cape Isabella.

Camped south side Newton CUacier, October 11, 1883. Notice left by Lieutenant Greely's party
retiring from Fort Conger. Left Fort Conger August 9, with steam launch. Lieutenant dreely, and three
boats. Beset, August 26, 1883, in 79° 24' north latitude, and about 74° west longitude, and after strenuous
efforts to reach land, reached shore here with boat and sledge and 35 days' rations, September 29th.

.Sergeant Rice visited Sabine, and learned that S. S. Protius sunk in Buchanan Straits July 23, 1883,
Winter quarters have been built here, but will be moved to wrecked [wreck] cache between (locked Hat
Island and Cape .Sabine, .is there are about 1,300 rations, except fuel, near there. Those rations will be
made to last until April i, 1884. If nothing is heard from Littleton Island by March loth, the |)arty will
cross 10 that point and depend on cache B and' hunting, or with the Eskimo below until relieved. Records
and pendulum will be left on Brevoort or Littleton Island, according to circumstances. Lieutenant (iarling-
ton and Proteus crew all saved; left Brevoort Island, July 24th, to communicate with the United .States
Steamer [Vantic], or British steamer. Sergeant Rice, who discovered Rice Strait, running from Rice Bay
to Cape Rutherford, making Sabine an island, will make a second dangerous trip to Isabella to .ascertain the
amount of F^nglish meat, and whether the American steamer has left anything, in addition, in 1882.

l\ I

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAV EXPEDITION.

430

C. — Order ticket by /.ienlettant Greely.

North SiUK Bairu I.Ni.ET, &//^«^r 30, 1883.
To Lieut. J. n. LocKWooD,

Tiventythird Infantry, Commtitidinir Second Officer:
Sir: You will proceed to-morrow morning with the Knglish sledge and nine men to Cape Sabine for
the purpose of bringing back the depot of 240 rations left there by Nares, i)rovided that this is the only dej)ot
there. In case other rations are found there, you will bring back only such few necessaries as we may
re([uire while moving the whole of the party up to that place. Vou will also have the records, itc, furnished
[cached] on the site of the Knglish cache. One of the two tin cylinders containing records will be left at the
English cache and the other in the Knglish cairn on the island of Brevoort.

D. — Memorandum^ September ig.

Sergeant Brainard thinks we should remain here until the first favorable opportunity.
Sergeant ki« e thinks that we can take greater chances of reaching the (Ireenland shore than we can to
reach Sabine, but at present sees no opportunity or encouragement to move in cither direction.

Minutes, September 24.

Lieutenant Kislingbury does not advise moving to-day, on account of the unsettled coniUtion of the ice,
the wind, and the lateness of the hour; and thinks it will be better to wait a few days longer in the hopes
of getting a lower temperature, and the ice pressing together.

Dr. Pavy recommends crossing the lead, with the Knglish boat, and reconnoitering, with a view of
reaching the whale-boat, owing to the great importance of recovering it.

Sergeant Brainard agreed with the doctor in the plan of reconnoitering.

Sergeant Rice thinks we all ought to be moving to-day, but that the lateness of the hour, and the
weather being unsettled, to agree that those who desire to get on the floe with the whale-boat, if possible, to
have the kayak sent out.

Lieutenant Lockwood advises moving at once, at least to the body on the floe next to the west, and
either reconnoiter with a view to reaching the whale-boat or doing something else.

E. — Memorandum.

Cape Isabella — cairn 700'. — Few cases i)reserved meat — 300' magnetic west of cairn. About 144
pounds of meat.

Minutes, September ig.

Question to Lieutenant Kislingbury : " If we miss Brevoort Island, do you think we can land to the
south of Brevoort Island?"

Answer: " It is a question I cannot answer with certainty."

Lieutenant Lockwood answered the same question, that he could not say ; it was a matter of chance
of the drift.

Dr. Pavy answered: "I will see after we are a mile from Cape Sabine."

Sergeant Braint*- ! replied to the same question that he thinks there will be some chance of reaching
shore south of Brevoort Island in case we find it within a mile or so.

Sergeant Rice (rinks there are some chances of reaching the shore ofi" Brevoort Island, as the coast
above Cape Isabella was reached.

Kislingbury amended his opinion that there are chances of making the west shore at the north of Cape
Isabella.

Lieutenant Greely: " If the party passes Brevoort Island, I think it almost impossible that Cape Isa-
bella — the most favorable point — can be reached."

Lieutenant Kislingbury advises making no move for the present, but wait for the floe to set in to some
fixed position.

Dr. Pavy's opinion is to remain here until something develops itself.

:'•

I"!

440

The lady franklin uaY E^tPEDixrojiT.

F. — MiHulcSy September 25.

Lieutenant Greely endorses reduction of rations, and thinks it would be best to wait a day or two and
see what the drift does, and in the mean time keep close Watch on it by examining the neighboring floes.

Dr, Pavy endorses reduction of rations. Thinks the Ice should be immediately examined, hnd thinks
that if the ice is found practicable we should move at cnce to the southwest.

Lieutenant Lockwood endorses the reduction of rations. Thinks we should wait a day or two until
some knowledge of the drift is ascertained.

Brainard and Rice are substantially of the same opinion as the last.

Sergeant Brainard thinks we should wait over the spring tides.

Lieutenant Greely thinks nothing should be done until the spring tides are passed.

G. — Miscellaneous Memorandum,

July 25, 1883. Pieces washed by Cross to date, per Mem. Book 20

July 24, 1883. Pieces washed by Jans [Jens] to date, per Mem. Book 67

Reward offered by me to Greenland sledge party : $450 in all, one-fourth to Brainanl, and four-sevenths of the remainder
divided equally between Ralston, Linn, and Klison; the remaining three-sevenths divided equally between Jewell, Salor, and
Frederik. I promised Frederik, Eskimo, 100 crowns.

Latitude SE., island, Carey group, 76° 42'. Longitude, 72^°.

Hakluyt Islands probably best pl.ace to take departure from. It is 34 iniles distant, about.

Sept. 15, 1883. — I wonder where I ^iiall be this day 1884 — if in this world or in another.

H. — Left behind at Fort Conger.

^eal-skin coat lined with doe-skin . 10

Old walking coat 15

One suit of chamois-skin 12

Seal-skin footstool 2

Musical instrument 10

Pair of shoes 2

Trunk 10

Suit of merino shirt and drawers 15

Several pairs of socks 3

Vest 6

Two blankets 8

Scents [cologne, etc.] 5

While shirts, cuffs, collars, &c 10

Hat. 2

Sleeping boots, &c. (should be paid for out o( signal appropriation) 10

Miscellaneous ..... 10

»30

SHRGKANT BRAINARD'S JOURNAL FROM BBRTMnXT.

Appendix No. 124.

Extract from the journal of Sergeant David L. Ihainant, from Aiis^iisf j6, rSSj, to fane sr,

yiS'cS'/) inc/asiz'e.

Sunday, An^^nst iG, 18S3. — Israel and Whisler, who were on watdi at tlie time (2 a. m.), roported a
movement in the ice highly favorable to our wishes. We immediately started, and, rountling Cape Louis
Napoleon without serious opposition, entered Oobbin Ray, where we found shelter In a snug little harbor not
far from the cape. The weather was exceeilingly cold and disagreeable, and here we were forced to remain
until 10 a.m., on account of a dense fog which obscured everything beyond our immediate vicinity. The
fog at that time was less dense, and our course towards Cape Hawks was shaped by the compass. The bay
was comparatively free of ice, and its southern limit at Cape Hawks was reached in about four l»ours' steamiiig.
After some difficulty the cache of English provisions was found by I,ieutenant Cireely and Connell. The
greater part of the bread was moldy and much of it was entirely ruined. The amounts collected in the
aggregate were about 300 pounds. Of other articles there were 168 pounds of desiccated potatoes, 3 gallons
rum, and i small keg of onion pickles. Rice, who had been dispatched to Washington Irving Island with
his boat, the A'limi/itit, to examine the cairn on its summit for records, returned with the discouraging report
that it had not been visited since August, 1881, when we passed up the coast in the jyo/iits. He left a
brief note in the cairn descriptive of our retreat from Fort Conger. He reported that the ice in the direction
of Cape Sabine .-appeared f;ivorable for being navigated by a ship. At 4 p. m. we resumed our course to
the southward. Rite being designated by Lieutenant Greely to act as steersman of the launch. He proved
more skillful in this capacity than any one who had preceded him at the tiller. It is but natural that our
mine'' should now be haunted by gloomy thoughts. Where is the ship which we have been looking for so
long, and which we confidently expected wouUl meet us ere this ? Siie is either lost in Melville liay or
else in this pack. If a naval vessel has been sei.t to our relief she would not dare to enter this ice, and she
is probably now at Littleton Island, awaiting our arrival.

After rounding C pe Hawks the coast was abandoned and our boats steered directly for C'ape Sabine,
which stands out boldly fifty miles to the southward. The lanes which we followed soon closed in conse-
quence of a general movement in the i)ack,and our boats thus che':ked were tied up to a floe, whiih had a
sluggish southerly drift. It is evident that very few storms have visited this locality during the summer, as
the absence of abrasion of the floc-edges is particularly noticeable. It has been a beautiful afternoon, with
a clear and cloudless sky and bright sun. The temperature fell to -|- 18 [ — 7.8°C.| this evening, an<l ice was
rapidly formed in consc(iuence. Snow has fiillen to a depth of two feet [.6'"] at Cajie Hawks this year.
Rice was again accidentally thrown from his boat to-day and was thoroughly drenched in the sea.

Monday, August 27, 1883. — The boats were firmly frozen into the floe this morning and covced with
a thick coating of frost. All our efforts to extricate them were unavailing. It was a beautifully clear
morning at 4 o'clock, but at 7 we were envelopeil in a dense fog which ajjproached us from the north. The
pack is firmly closed and no indication of its scattering is apparent. It appears,, however, to have a slight

441

442

THE LADY FUANKLIN IJAY EXPEDITION.

^i 3

! f

i!.;

■i : •-

: ^ II

northerly movement, but the change in our position to-day has been inconsiderable. The flowing tide
evidently overcomes the southerly current, and the direction of the drift is thus changed for brief periods
each day.

Our position, as determined by Israel, from astronomical observations, is in latitude 97° 22' north;
longitude, 73° 00' 05" west. Lieutenant Greely addressed the party briefly this morning, to allay serious
ai /prehensions of danger in our present situation, and to explain his reasons for leaving the land to enter the
T/ack.

Gardiner reports having seen several narwhals in a pool near our position. As the date of our escape
from this pack is now a matter of conjecture, I asked Lieutenant Greely to make a reduction in the issue
of provisions, in order that they should be extended, but he would not accede to my request.

We rigged a tripod on the floe this evening, on which a flag was placed. It can be ascended to a height
of fifteen feet [4.5'"], and will aflt)rd us an extensive view over neighboring floes. The ice formed over an inch,
[25.4"""] in thickness last night. On a small paleocrystic floe, not far from where our boats are hauled up
a small pool of fresh water has been found which will supply our party with an unlimited quantity for some
days, and in consequence permit us to economize in the use of fuel. A clear, beautiful evening. The tem-
perature fell to +12.5° [—10.8° C] at II p. m.

Tuesday, August 2^, 1883. — The pack in which we are imprisoned drifted slightly to the north and
east during the night. A southerly motion has also been detected, and we are now pretty well satisfied that
our n'ovements are subject to the caprices of the tides. The pack opened slightly last evening, but before we
could make any preparation for our departure it h.id closed again. If the ice is not broken, and the pack
thus opened by a gale cr by the tides within ten days, to facilitate our movements, we will be compelled
to seek safety in aoandoning everything except our provisions and the twenty-foot [6"'J ice-boat and make
a dash for Littleton Island. The new ice is now three inches [76.2"""] thick, and is strong enough to sup-
port Connell, who walked over its surface this morning. It has been a bright, pleasant day, and through
the clear atmosphere the coast of Grsenland to the south and east could be distinctly seen. A well-marked
drift to the south was observed during flood tide to-day. Adversity in its worst form would not, I think, be
suflicient to depress the spirits of our men. Our situation is tlesperate. Any moment this ice may crumble
beneath our feet and crush the entire party in its icy jaws; but notwithstanding this danger the men, while
on the floe exercising this evening, danced and sang as joyously as they would have done in their own
homes. They are indeed irrepressible in the face of all this uncertainty, perhaps starvation. The icy grasp
of winter is now rapidly encircling us. Something must be done soon.

llWnfst/aj', August 29, 1883. — The weather has continued cloudy and the temperature has remained
high allMay. The drift continues, but the progress southward is not percepuble to the eye alone. By the
aid of compass bearings, however, Israel places the approximate distance of our southerly drift at three
miles. Lanes opened out through the pack in the direction of Cape Prescott this morning, but we were
unable to get to them owing to intervening ice. The change of tide caused tiitm all to close again. Our
time is passed drearily enough in reading, sleeping, and eating. The sergeants in turn take tours of two
hours each to watch the movements of the ice. The others perform no duty except that of cooking. 'I"he
snow is from twelve to twenty inches [.3 to .5'"] in depth on the floe. I am fearful that we will find this a
serious impediment if it should become necessary for us to abandon the boats (except one) and travel across
the floe towards Cape Sabine. Jev/ell saw a small white fox prowling about the boats early this morning, but
before a gun could be secured the little rascal had sniffed danger in the air and disajipeared from view.
These little animals are often seen on the floe in this manner, far from land and with no apjxirent purpose.
They must secure a very precarious living on these desolate and l)arr>n ice-fields. I believe that the English
expedition of i875-'76 shot one on the i<e in this vicinity.

Thursday, August t,o, 1883. — The drift from midnight until 10 a. m. was about one mile to the north-
east. It then turned and drifted to the southwest for a distance of one and two-tenths miles in a short time.
At noon we were in latitude 79° 20' nortli, longitude 7:;° 45' west. The minimum tem])erature for last night
was -|-ii.8 [—11.2° C.j. No party has ever ex|)e."ienced so low a temperature in .Vugust. The day has
been clear and beautiful, but just before midnight clouds obscured the sky. Numerous water-spaces are
visible to the north and east of our camj), and the dark clouds overhanging the southern horizon indicate
also that there is an abundance of water in that direction. The cooks used the stearine lamps to-day for
the first time and found that they worked in a very satisfactory nanner. Tiie length of time required to
cook our meals with stearine does not vary .Materially from that consumed when alcohol is used for the same

U :;

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

443

purpose. I made an inventory of the provisions this evening and found that fifty-five days' supplies were
on hand. These can, however, be extended for seventy days. Lieutenant Greely ' ifornied me that he
would start with boats and sledges for Litdeton Island as soon as the state of the ice would permit, livery-
thing not useful to us, or in the least cumbersome, will of cours'j be abandoned here or at the place where
we make the fin 1 start. Before beginning the journey over the floe towards Littleton Islantl the pendulum
and records will be cached, if possible, at Victoria Head. Their safety is a matter of deep concern to us.

Friday, Au,i;/isf ^i, 1883. — The day opened cloudy and with a light northeast wind. At 8 a. m. snow
began falling, but about 2 o'clock in the afternoon it ceased. Temperature high for this season. Rain
began falling during the evening rendering it necessary for us to hastily improvise rude shelters, under v/hich
we found only a partial protection from the elements.

'I'he distance which our floe has drifted to the south during the last twenty-four hours, as estimated Iiy
Israel, is three miles. Very little inclination of the floe to the eiistward has been noted.

Saturday, Septemhcr i, 1883. — Cloudy weather prevailed during the morning, and d dense fog hung over
the coast with Victoria Head visible above it. During the afternoon, however, the weather was bright and
cheerful and the temperature comparatively high. We are still drifting gradually to the south. Our lati-
tude to-day, as determined by Israel, is 79° 19'. The longitude does not differ materially from that obtained
at the last observation. At 2.15 p. m. the northern ice-pack came charging down on our i-.nprotected floe,
shattering like glass the ice which opposed its formidable front anil heaping it in great quivering and groan-
ing masses about us. Our boats were hauled up, but none too soon ; a moment later and they would have
been nothing but a bundle of splinters. The relentless pressure openec^ wide seams in the floe on which
we were encamped and severely nipped Lady Greely, which was anchored to the ice near us. Sin did not
succumb to the measureless force as we had expected, but rose grandly as the pressure increased, and stood
upright high above the water in the cradle formed for her by the grinding ice. At 6.30 p. m. she gradually
settled i.ito the water again, the ice having slackened at the turning of the tide and the pressure in conse-
quence removed. About 11 p. m. she sustained another nip from a sudden movement in the floe, but as on
the former occasion she rose nobly undor the severe strain and remained uninjured. Dense water-clouds
of inky blackness are hovering over the horizon to the north and east. A great expanse of water is also
supposed to exist near the coast.

Our two natives, Jens and Christiansen, each killed a seal to-day. A good-natured spirit of rivalry in the
matter of hunting exists between these faithful fellows, It is suspected that Christiansen, whose blood has
been freely intermingled with that of the Danes, often takes an unfair advantage of his darker brother. As
an incentive for them to hunt, a drink of rum is given them whenever a seal is killed. Six other seals were
seen in a pool not far from our floe, but none were shot. No portion of these animals is lost ; even the
blood is now considered a luxury, and is eagerly sought for by ne.arly all of us, .and is swallowed without the
slightest feeling of repugnance. If drank wp.-m it is very palatable, and in flavor not unlike uncooked eggs.
It possesses excellent qualities as an anti-scorbutic. During the evening several individual lanes of water
appe.ared in our vicinity, but as none of them were connected with the pool in which our boats were lying
at the time, no attempt was made to reach them. It is observed that ice forms over these pools in an almost
incredible short space of time. Our boots are in a most wretched condition, and we refrain from walking
about as much as 've otherwise would on this ,'^cc;ouI.t. The greatest discomfort that we are called upon to
endure is the constant dam])ness of our feet because of this defective foot-gear. The only damage sustained
by our equipment during the confusion this morning was the crushing of two small alcohol cans, which very
fortunately contained none of the valuable fluid.

Sunday^ September 2, 18S3. — I went on watch at 4 a. m., at which time the launch had settled quietly
down in her bed through the loosening of the ice, and ap|)eared to be none the worse for the severe sipieez-
ing to which she had been subjected by the pack. The fog cleared away at 5 a. m., permitting us to obtain
a.i excellent view of our surroundings. Our southerly drift since yesterday has been estimated at over three
miles, 'i'he Lady Greely was lifted frequently in her bed to day by the spasmoilic pressure of the ice, but no
injuries were received. Our floe, which is only of one year's growth, is slowly but surely crumbling away
from beneath us by the tremendous pressure from the nortlicrn [jack, wliich is influenced by the currents
and tides. An opportunity occurred last night for changing our position a short distance, but it was not
taken advantage of. At 1 1 p. m., however, we moved to another floe, which is larger and thicker than the
first, and which we trust will withstand the disastrous effects of a gale. The barometer is falling rapidly.
Maximum temperature, -|-32-2 [-fo.ioC], mininuim, -f23.5° [ — 4.7°C.|.

S *"^ 'Ti

444

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Monday, September 3, 1885. — On rising for breakfast this morning, I was much surprised to observe the
remarkable progress southward which our floe must have made during the night and this morning while
the coast was hidden by a dcn;e fog. Such favorable results in our drifting always produce an upward
tendency in the '"social barometer" of the party. We do not, however, lose sight of the dangers by which
we are surrounded, nor the uncertainties of our position.

A meridian altitude placed us in latitude 79° 15' N. From compass sights taken during the afternoon
it was ascertained that we had drifted with the flood tide to the northward two miles in four hours. A few
water pools appear in our immediate vicinity, but to the north, east, and west the floe, to all appearances,
is firm and compact. A thick fog veiled the coast during the evening. Some sharp criticisms, which were
made by Lieutenant Kislingbury on our present inactivity, were overheard and objected to by Lieutenant
Greely. He (Lieutenant Greely) soon afterwards directed me to summons Lieutenants Lockwood and Kis-
lingbury, Doctor Pavy, and Sergeant Rice for a consultation as to the best method of proceeding to land.
I was also directed to be present. On invitation by Lieutenant Greely the following recommendations were
made: Lieutenant Kislingbury advised that we abandon the launch \Lady Greefy] and the English jolly boat
Fti/o/vi/s, and taking the two remaining boats move them across the intei'vening spaces of water, from floe to
floe, to Albert Head, and thence across Uuchanan Strait to Cape Sabine. Doctor Pavy would take one boat
and proceed in the same direction. He agrees with Lieutenant Kislingbury that the start should be made
to-morrow, or as soon thereafter as practicable. Lieutenant Lockwood was of the opinion that it was par-
ticularly dtsimble to reach the shore as quickly as possible, but was not prepared to pass judgment for final
action. I did not advise a movement in the present unsettled state of the pack, but would wait until the
end of the month, or until the floe had cemented sufliciently to admit of our traveling over it with our heavy
loads. In the meantime we woiild be drifting slowly to the south. When the retreat began I was of the
opinion that only one boat should be taken, and that the party should endeavor to reach Cape Sabine. If
no considerable quantity of provisions were found there, to divide the party, sending the strongest to Little-
ton Island with the boat. Rice made substantially the same recommendations that had been made by me.
As a result of this conference, Lieutenant Greely decided to remain here until the new ice had cemented
the floes together sufliciently to admit of our traveling with facility over them. In the meantime we would
take advantage of any and every opening in the ice which would permit us to move southward.
Whisler w.as dischargetl from the service and re enlisted to-day.

2'uesdtiy, Septemher 4, 1883. — Our floe continues to drift slowly to the southeast under the influence
of the currents. Snow has been falling steadily all day, rendering the condition of the party absolutely
wretched.

Frederick, Schneider, and myself, with the assistance of a few others who were to receive the benefits,
constructed a "te))ee," after the model of those used by the North American aborigines. By crowding
closely, it can be made to accommodate sixteen men. The other nine will find shelter in Connell's boat,
over which a housing will be placed. Jens was fortunate enough to shoot another small seal to-day.
While on duty this evening I observed a movement in the ice and saw a small lead opening. This I
at once reported to Lieutenant Greely who ordered the party aroused. Rice ascended the "lookout," and
reported the lead in favorable condition for navigation by our boats. Started at 9 p. m.,and after working
for a short distance through stream ice, we ent.,'red a lead which ran in the direction of Cape Albert. After
pushing ahead for little more than a mile, th,' lead closed and our boats were hiuled on the floe, and all
except the solitary watch retired at up. m. During the brief trip the launch was towed by the boats.
This was made necessary by the displacement of her fan (pi.jpeller), which occurred yesterday while under-
going the terrific ])ressure in the pack. Cross and Elison began work on two small sledges, with which, in
addition to the large English sledge, we will endeavor to make our escape from this inhospitable floe to a
more congenial region. The interior wood-work of the Lady Greely will be sacrificed for sledge-runners,
and barrel staves will be converted into >.u;ss-slats.

Wednesday, September 5, 1883. — k bright, beautiful day, just the opposite to yesterday's dreariness and
discomfort. At the breakfast hour we were just abreast of Victoria Head, but at dinner time we were far
to the south of it. Paradoxical as it may ap[)ear, we d '"ted southward during the flood-tide when we should
have been moving northward. Light southerly winds have prevailed all day. During the last few days the
temperature has been ranging from +30 [— 1.1° C] to 4- 11 [ — ii-7°C.]. No colder weather was ever
before experienced by any party, at this season of the year. At noon our position was in latitude 79° 8.6'
N. — a drift of six miles in two days, making all due allowance *br the distance gained by boat last evening.

TUE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

445

Jens amused himself, as well as the party, by firing shot after shot at a small seal which did not even apijear
frightened at the noise going on around it. I placed our flag on one of the long masts and planted it firmly in
the large knoll which rises from the center of our small palcocrystic floe. If friends are in our vicinity they
cannot help seeing this conspicuous signal. The conduct of the men since we have l)een in this unfortunate
plight is above all praise and compliment. They are to be highly commended fur their unselfislmess, and
for having the happy faculty of making the best of everything, even under the most trying circumstances.
When we were first imprisoned in this treacherous pack, I had expected to hear repinings and lamentations
without end, but, to my surprise, matters are just the contrary. Certainly an ill-temi)ered remark may
occasionally be heard, but where will we find any large party like ours without blemish? (iood-natured
chaff, hearty, ringing laughter, and snatches of song may be heard at almost any time from this irrepressible
little band. Most bodies of men placed in these circumstances would have become discouraged and
depressed, and probably would have lost all interest even in matters pertaining to the saving of their lives.

Thursday, September 6, 1883. — Cloudy weather during the morning, with fresh southwest winiis jjrevail-
ing. At 2 p. m. snow began falling, and the wind changeil direction to the northwest, and increased in
velocity almost to a gale. A small water space opened during the night, but as it did not extend more than
three hundred yards [274'"] from our position, and as nothing could be gained by moving that distance, I
did not disturb Lieutenant Greely, who at the time was sleeping. The Greenland coast, east of Cairn Point,
was visible, owing to the very clear atmosphere, at i a. m. The sun appeared for a few hours this morning,
and under its genial influence the temperature rose to + 13.2 [ — 10.4° C.].

Latitude at noon was 79° 6.9' — a gain of 1.7 miles since 12 o'clock yesterday. A very opportune issue
of rum was made this evening, when all were feeling the effects of the exposures and discomforts to which
we have been subjected since leaving Fort Conger, Although the (juantity issued was small, a stimulating
effect was neveitheless produced, and many attempts at singing were made by the lovers of the "ardent."
Long was fortunate enough to shoot a small seal this morning. The large iceberg which has been our
constant companion for several days, and in which as a protector we had all confidence, is now likely to
prove itself a treacherous friend. It is bearing down on our floe and may grind it to powder with its
resistless force. The chances are, however, that it will strike one side of our small floe and simply revolve
it without injury to us. We are ready to move at any moment. Shelters have been erected over the boats
with the spare sails and the "tepee" canvas.

Fiiday, September 7, 1883. — A northeast gale accompanied by snow was in progress from midnight
until I p. m. The sky then cleared and the sun shone brightly during the remainder of the day. The
gale of this morning has accelerated our drift greatly, and at the same time inclined us towards die land.
We passed abreast of Cape Albert at a distance of not more than four miles, but no means of escape
presented itself At noon we were in latitude 79° 0.6', a drift of six and tliree-tenths miles tluring the last
twenty-four hours. ^

I was somewhat surprised this morning when on looking at the original recoril, and tracing it back to
August 30, to find the barometer at that date standing at 30.17 [766.30"""!. To-day it indicates 29.22
[742.17"'"'], a fall of nearly an inch [about 25"'"'] in eight days. Since i a. m., however, it has been rising
slowly and steadity.

Since we have occupied this floe, fresh water from the surface pools has been obtained in sufficient
quantities to supply all our wants in that direction, but to-day the last of it was used or congealed, and the
melting of ice to furnish us with water was resorted to. At a late hour this evening, however, another pool
was found on an adjoining floe, which for the present will obviate the lavish use of fuel in melting ice. Our
southerly drift appears to have been arrested since yesterday noon. The reason assigned is that the pack
south of our floe rests firmly against the land, where it was driven by the gale this morning, and that the
intervening ice is so compactly pressed that no further movement is possible. The land near Cocked Hat
Island is evidently about fourteen miles away. I''rom five to six o'clock this evening the thermometer fell
ten degrees [5.6° C.j, and at the end of the following hour it had fallen four ilegrees |2.j"C.| more.

Saturday, September 8, 1883. — .\ beautiful morning, bright, clear, and cahn. Stars were seen last night
for the first time since last spring. The light was very dim and uncertain at midnight. Connell encountered
a walrus sporting in a pool not far from camp, and fired eight shots into him without effect. It appears that
t!ie Springfield bullet cannot penetrate their armor-like hide. Connell says that the balls glanced oft" his
skull as they would have done had they been fired against the rounded surface of a rock. 'I'he temperature
fell last night to —0.8° [—18.2° C], something quite unknown in these regions at this period of the year.

446

THE LADV I'ltANKLlN BAY EXPEDITION.

I !-

"> :'

It a

;!i

Our latitude is just the same as yesterday. This fact confirms the oi)inion which I expressed yesterday
in my notes that the pack south of us rested against the land in the vicinity of Cocked Hat Island, thus pre-
venting any further drift in that direction. Ice is forming rapidly about us; the pools are all covered, and
the floes will soon be cemented together so firmly as to render traveling feasible. By the direction of Lieu-
tenant Greely I had the sledges lashed together. There are three in number — the large twelve-man sledge
brought from Fort Conger, and the two small ones just constructe ' by Cross and Elisor.

Lieutenant Greely says he will abanilon the /.aify Greely and the Valorous, and, taking the other boats,
with sledges and supjilies, endeavor to reach the land in the vicinity of Cocked Hat Island. It is his inten-
tion, weather permitting, to start as early as day after to-morrow on this hazardous and diflicult journey,

I am going out to-morrow with Christiansen for the purpose of selecting a route for the sledges through
the broken and ruggi;d surface of the i)ack towards land and — safety. I expect this duty to be of rather a
dangerous nature, considering the treacherous condition of the pack, but with faithful Christiansen as a
companion and counselor, I fear nothing. An issue of rum was a welcome addition to our evening rations.
The ice in Buchanan Strait does not appear to have broken up this year. If we are not deceived in our
opinion in this matter, it is no wonder to us now — it is no longer a mystery — why the relief ship did not
reach us in August. This sort of ice would iireclude the advance of any vessel, no matter what her capa-
bilities were for ice navigation. Standing on the summit of a lofty iceberg, we had an excellent view of the
ice-pack to the south, and, as a result of our observations, concluded that the floes in the direction of Cocked
Hat Island offered greater facilities for traveling than those toward Cape Sabine.

A rough estimate of our constant weights place them at about 6,000 pounds. This includes provisions
and ammunition, as well as those articles of our equipment designated as "constant."

SuHiiay, September 9, 1883 — Nothing has been done to-day owing to the wretched weather. I did not
even start out as contemplated to select a road, on account of the hazy atmosphere which concealed the
coast from view. The temperature is ranging from -|- 17 [ — 8.3° C] to + jo [ — 12.2° C] and the barometer
has an upward tendency. Fresh northwest winds prevail, accompanied by snow. The large sledge was
completed to-day. Dense water-clouds were observed over and southwest of Cape Camperdown. This fact
leads us to believe that we were in error after all regarding the breaking out of the ice in Buchanan Straits.

Lieutenant Greely again held a consultation with the same commissioned and non-commissioned officers
as before, and as a result of this meeting he decided to start to-morrow morning. The principal reason for
calling us together is to get our ideas and opinions generally, but more particularly with reference to the
details of loading the sledges and handling the boats.

Monday, September 10, 1883. — The Lady Greely and the Valorous were dismantled and abandoned. A
brief record of the events of our unparalleled retreat to this place was deposited in each. The mainmast
of the Valorous w us placed in position, and from its top a signal flag was left fluttering in the wind to attract
the attention of relief vessels should they pass in this vicinity.

Lieutenant Greely conceived the idea of taking packs and endeavoring to reach Cape Sabine by travel-
ing over the floe. He selected Jens (Eskimo) and myself to accompany him on this perilous undertaking,
but before we were ready to depart the other officers came forward with objections to the proposed trip, on
the ground that the commanding officer should always remain with his party; they however were willing,
mdividually, to undertake the journey, but protested against the departure of the commanding officer. The
enterprise was finally abandoned as impracticable under the circumstances.

Owing to the unsettled state of the weather we did not start until 1.45 p. m. I went ahead and selected
a route through the hummocks, turning back after having traversed about one mile to assist with the sledge.
The small ice-l)oat Beaumont and about 700 pounds of stores were taken on the large sledge at the first
load. Following this came the two small sledges, four and six man respectively, at their drag-ropes. Before
proceeding far both these sledges broke down although their loads were comparatively light. After hauling
the first sledge about a mile, the load was deposited on the floe and the party went back for the whale-boat
Nanvhal and a few articles of baggage. The thirtl and last load with the large sledge comi)rised the re-
mainder of our property, including oars, nmnumition, arms, and provisions. The weights of the three loads
iiauled on the large sledge is as follows: F'irst load, 1,400 pounds; second, 2,000 pounds; and the third,
1,600 pounds. The small sledges were repaired by Cross and Elison after some difficulty, but they are still
of doubtful benefit to us.

The last load reached camp at 7.15 p.m. We traveleil five miles, but made good only one. The
snow is very deep, and, as predicted several days ago, the labor of hauling the sledge through it is very

Lh^asass

M««i»*sai»*— ^"™

THE LADY FRANKLIN JJAV KXI'EDITION.

447

severe. One of the runners of the large sledge broke through the ice, but tlie sledge was savei' without
serious difficulty. Officers and men worked alike, and without distinction, in the drag-mitcs. Rum was
issued after entering camp.

Tiirsiiiiy, Stptcinbcr ii, 1883. — The morning was stormy, and light snow has failLMi since yesterday.
Notwithstanding the disagreeable weather, we started out with the first load at 8.40 a. m. 1 again advanced
ahea<) of the party to select and prepare a road for the heavily-laden sledge.

Excessive thirst attends, and very naturally, the severe labors of the weary sledgers, but numerous pools
are to be found at this season of the year on paleocrystic tloes, over which we fre(iuently cross. At these
pools the party halt and partake of their refreshing waters, ^^'ere it not for these miniature lakes tt) provide
us with fresh water while traveling the sufferings of the party from ti)irst would be intense. Three trips
were made by the large sledge and about i J^ miles were gained. A heavy snow-storm setting in warned us
that it was useless to push farther to-day. We camped on a j)aleocrystic floe of great extent. \\. its southern
limit is a large grounded iceberg, which Lieutenant (Ireely directed me to visit with the view of noting the
conditions of traveling in that direction. Dr. Pavy accompanied me, by consent of Lieutenant ( Ireely.
Climbing to the summit of the berg, we could see a great expanse of new ice spread out before us, studdeil
here and there with small rubble. This ice was not strong enough to bear the weight of our sledges, and
it was, in consequence, pronounced impracticable for our purpose.

While standing on the berg and discussing the chances and probabilities of our escape from the pack,
a school of walrus came to the surface, breaking the ice with their heads, and after making the air hideous
with their discordant bellowing, disappeared from view.

We saw the tracks of a fox not far from the camp, leading in an easterly direction. While returning
from our visit to the berg we heard the barking of a dog, which was repeated twice, but, to our great disap-
pointment, saw nothing. The temperature ranges from -f- 14 [— 10.0° C] to +17 [— 8.3° C'.|.

It is my opinion that nothing can be done at present except to move to the edge of the floe and there
await the action of the spring tides, or for the new ice to strengthen sufficiently to enable us to travel over
it with our loaded sledges. On reporting having heard a dog bark, a gun was fired several times, and the
flag, placed on the longest pole, was planted on the tallest of the dome-shaped ice formations near camp.
A quantity of the matches having been left at the place where we aljandoned the boats. Cross and Frederick
volunteered to go back for them this evening.

Lieutenant Greely again held a consultation with the officers. Rice, and myself, for the jiurpose of
eliciting our views regarding the most prudent course to pursue. The general wish is to go to the berg on
the south side of this floe and there await the .action of the spring tides, which occur in a few days. If
the ice withstands the effects of the tides, it will certainly be strong enough to travel over, but should it
be broken, then an opportunity may present itself for us to escape to land in our two boats. Lieutenant
Greely favors a plan of traveling to the southeast by a series of floes which he thinks extends in that direc-
tion, and has directed Rice to make a reconnaissance of eight hours' duration in that direction to-morrow.
We will not move to-morrow — at least not in the morning. Snow ceased falling at i p. m.

Wcducsday, September 12, 1883. — Cloudy weather, light northeast winds, and a temperature of +17
[— 8.3° C], Minimum recorded last night, +9 [— i2.8°C.]. Rice started out towards the southeast to
look for a road at 8.15 a. m. He was accompanied by Jens and Dr. Pavy. They returned soon after noon,
reporting the traveling in that direction to be good. We at once began preparations for a move, and in a
short time everything was ready for the journey.

On the recommendations of the officers, together with those of Rice and myself, the commanding
officer ordered the whale-boat to be abandoned. The wisdom of this action is obvious, 'i'he sledge has
been broken and is daily growing weaker under the weight of the whale-boat, which is 29 feet [8.8"'] in
length. The sledge is not quite fourteen feet [4.2'"| in length, and it would be broken in pieces in anotlier
day. Such a calamity would prove a fatal blow to the party. Without a sledge we are helpless. In the
boat a record of our fortunes and misfortunes was deposited, and a signal flag nailed to an oar, placed in
an upright position, was left flying over it. After traveling two miles we reacJieii the edge of the floe, where
our first load was depo ited, and the other was afterwards brought up to it. A wide crack at the edge of
this floe does not augur well for to-morrow's work. A bear track was seen not far from our present camp,
and Jens saw narwhals, seals, and walruses in our immediate vicinity, but he was not enabled to get a shot
at them. A large lake of fresh water was foinid on this floe near the camp. Another -ouncil was called
this evening, in which the officers, Rice, and myself were represented. A guard was di tailed to watch for
the bear, which is liable to visit us at any time. Latitude 78°' 58' 9" north.

;||

^ 1

1 '

J ,'.,

.- ii

448

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY KXFKDITION.

Tlnosdijy, SifUmlh.- 13, 1883. — The morning was briglit and beautiful, but the afternoon was cloudy.
Minimum temperature, +17.0 [—8.3° (.".1. With Jens as a companion, I started out in advance of the
sledge to select a route through the hummocks. We saw several walrus and a few narwhals blowing in a
pool which \vc i)assed. We also saw the bear's tracks again. They indicated by their freshness that his
bearship had been prowling near the camp last night, evidently attracted by the odor arising from the food
being preparetl by the cooks. The first load started at 7.55 a. m. and advanced steadily for two hours.nvhen
it was unloaded, and the party returned for the second. Three loads were rerjuired to convey all our bag-
gage, boat, &c., the last one arriving in camp at 3.35 p. m. Estimated distance traveled, 7 miles ; made
good, i^ miles. Meridian observation places our latitude at 79° 56' 00" north.

The new ice is very thin and dangerous ; small rubble is scattereil over the surface which fiicilitates
rather than retards the progress of the sledge. Once the left runner broke through the floe, but a hearty
cheer from Rice, who was behind guiding the sledge, caused all who were in the drag-ropes to plunge sud-
denly forward, and with one great effort the load was safely landed on firm ice. In transferring a few
articles across the crack mentioned yesterday, Uender made a misstep and fell through the ice, wetting him-
self to the waist.

Friday, Scplcmhr 14, 1883. — While on guartl last night (lardiner saw a fox prowling about camp which
was evidently anxious to ascertain the quality of our bacon. Jens and myself again went in advance of the
first load for the purpose of selecting the best possible route through the broken pack. We were directed
by Lieutenant Greely to take the best route to land, no matter at what point we would touch it; but if any
two routes were etjual in point of smoothness, to take the more easterly of the two, w hich would enable us
to reach the shore in the vicinity of Cocked Hat Island.

The roar of the moving and grinding pack to the east of us, in the axis of the channel, is something so
terrible — so awe inspiring — that even the bravest among us cannot .ij)pear unconcerned when it is heard.
To add color to the scene of desolation on this floe, with the heaving and convulsive masses of ice abc'Ut us,
dark, portentous clouds are hanging over the horizon surrounding us, indicating that our floe is not con-
nected with the land, as we had deluded ourselves into believing, but is drifting helplessly in the open sea;
its movements subject to tlie caprices of the winds and currents. The small sledge broke down while cross-
ing a band of rubble-ice, and jjroved worthless to us the rest of the day. This necessitated an extra trij)
with the large sledge. Made good one and one-half miles. Walrus were observed during the day. Hy 9
p. m. we had drifted for a considerable distance in a northeasterly direction, into Kane Sea, in conse(iuence
of a southerly gale which arose just before we reached camp with the last load this evening. In the last
few hours we liave lost more than twice the distance that we had gained by the severe toil of the last five days.
Saturday, September 15, 1883. — On rising this morning we learned that we were still drifting, under the
influence of the gale, in a northeasterly direction. Cape Camperdown is nearly north of us now. Israel's
observations at noon yesterday placed us in latitude 78° 55' north, a gain of 1.9 miles in actual travel for
tiiat day. To-day we are in latitude 79° 01.8' north; a loss of nearly seven miles of our dearly-earned
ground. The severe labor to which we have been subjected in hauling the sledges over these almost inter-
minable ice-fields has been for nought. We are miles farther away from land than we were before, and
with no immediate prospect of regaining what we have lost! There is open water all along the coast from
Cape Sabine to Allman I?ay. It is the opinion of many that if we had followed our instructions closely, by
confining our line of retreat to the shore, we would now be safe with our four boats in that large expanse of
water, liut this of course is only conjecturing, for, on the other hand, we might say that if we had entered
Allman Hay for jirotection, in all probability our boats would now be frozen in there for the winter, and our
situation equally as deplorable as the present.

The gale subsided at 4 p. m., and our position, by bearings, was at once determined by Israel. We are
directly north of Littleton Island, and seventeen miles from Cocked Mat Island; consequently have lost
about fifteen miles. The meat ration has been reduced from sixteen to twelve ounces. The temperature is
quite high.

Sunday, Se/>tem/>er 16, 1883. — After the influence of the departing gale had ceased to be felt, the direc-
tion of our drill changed to southerly. We are now moving along in the midst of the polar pack, with the
currents, which have a strong southerly tendency at this place.

At noon we were in latitude 79° 00' 07" N. — a tlrift of i.i miles since yesterday, and that in opposition
to adverse winds and tides. We are about thirty miles from Cairn Point, and directly north of Littleton
Island. The drift during the continuance of the gale was about twelve miles, instead of fifteen, as stated in
my journal yesterday.

^mvmKnrs^

TUK LADY FltANKLiN IJAY EXPEDITION.

449

Rice and Jens went out this morning to inspei t the ice, and on rtturning reported it impracticable for
sledging just at present.

Another council was called by Lieutenant ('reely this evening for discussing oui situation. All those
who had previously attended were jiresent on this occasion. Dr. Pavy insisted that the only possible method
of escape was to push forward toCai)e Sabine at onceover the broken pack. The others (including myself)
recommended that no move be made just at present, but that we wait until after the spring tides — which are
now at their highest — and until the Hoe, on which we are now living, takes some definite direction. Lieu-
tenant Clreely expressed himself as willing to abandon the pendulum wlienever any member of the party
should announce himself dissatisfied with liaiiling it. In this no on^ would concur, but all thought that it
should be kept as long as possible.

I took an inventory of the jirovisions and found that full rations for forty days remained in store. The
hunters were out all day on the ice in search for game. They report having seen bear tracks, and tho» a
small seal was observed in a pool not far from camp. Christiansen shot a large seal this evening which will
net us about 125 pounds of meat. A lead passing not far from our floe, and about three-quarters of a mile
in width, extends two miles south of us. Its northern limit cannot be seen. Our floe is slowly but gradually
settling back to the southwest — its former position — anil at the same time it is revolving in the direction
opjiosite to the movements of the sun. Hereafter no member of the party will be allowed to know the
result of Israel's observations. Lieutenant Greely is of the opinion that the men would become discouraged
if they knew that they were drifting adversely, and has given Israel orders to impart no information to any
member of the party relative to our actual position, except to the commanding officer.

Monday, September 17, 1C83. — Christiansen shot another small seal this morning. Our floe revolved in
such a manner during the night that we are now facing in a direction just opposite to that in which we were
facing last evening; consequently the trail made by us through tiie s:iow on entering this camp leads towards
Cocked Hat Island instead of the north, as it did yesterday. Minimum temperature last night was +2.5
[ — 16.4° C.J. Our position at noon was in latitude 78° 56' north. During the morning Rice and myself
took an inventory of our rations and effects, and estimated their combined weight at 5,737 pounds. Several
articles, and in fact all that we could spare, such as telescopes, shot-guns, tin-ware, &c, were eliminated from
our equipment, and abandoned on the floe.

We started with our sledges at i p. m., as usual. I went ahead to prepare a road for their advance.
The last load was not brought into camp until very late. A large crack in the floe at the camping place
warned us that it would not be prudent to leave our load of stores on the opposite side while we went back
after the others, so they were deposited on the floe on the same side as our last camp. After hauling up
the last load, however, we carried everything across the crack and camped on the southern side. In the
event of the place opening during the night, we will not be inconvenienced by having to cross with our
boat. The two floes met with such force at this point that abrasion of their sides has heaped for a mile
long and six feet [i.8"'] high a ridge of pulverized ice. The traveling has been very good, considering the
late storm, which broke the pack badly.

After te.i hours of exhaustive physical strain (we did not retire until 1 1 p. m.), it is refreshing, indeed,
to lie down in our sleeping-bags — notwithstanding their dampness — and stretch our weary limbs. As the
bags are spread on the ice with only one thickness of canvas underneath them, our comfort can well be
imagined. This has been the brightest and most comfortable day that we have experienced since leaving
Fort Conger.

Tuesday, September 18, 1883. — We turned out of our bags at an early hour with the intention of making
a desperate effort to reach the land, which now appears to be not far away. We drifted slightly to the south
and east during the night. The crack over which we had passed last evening was found this morning to have
opened considerably, and walrus were sporting in the area of water thus formed. Minimum temperature
during the night was -fg [— 12. 8° C.].

We traveled over a smooth floe for about one mile, making rapid progress, owing to the absence of
snow on its surface. At this spot we found a wide lane of water with much brash ice drifting about, which
precluded our crossing without the aid of the boat. Our supplies were all brought to this spot, and the boat then
launched. They were then ferried over the lane and placed safely on the opjjosite floe. We soon discovered
that the pack had disintegrated, and that the small floes were being rapidly drifted about by the eddying
currents. We transferred from one floe to another as quickly as we were able, each man retaining his self-
possession, and working with desperation, and for safety. I cannot understand how it is that we were not
H. Mis. ;{0.T 29

. TUK L\I)Y FUANKLIN IJAY KXPEDITION.

separated, or thai iiur boat was not (rushed in that grinding mass. It is certainly miraculous that we
csiapcd alive. From 8 a. m. until 6 p. m. we havi- worked in this manner, expecting momentarily that our
efTurls, through no fault of our own, would terminate fatally. Latitude at noon was 78°5o', N. While cross-
ing a dangerous place Rice missed his footing and fell head foremost into the water. Dry clothing being
furnished jiim, a change of garments was effected there on the floe, in the low temperature and without
protection from the winds.

At 6.30 p. m. we reached a large circular floe about one mile in diameter, and halting on its edge for
a few minutes to obtain much needed rest; the cooks hastened to prepare sujjper in the interval. I had
previously been sent ahead by Lieutenant dreely to make an examination of the floe and the ice intervening
between us and land. I reported, on my return, that a lane of water on the ojjposite side of the floe
evidently extended to the shore, which was j)robal)ly not more than three miles away, and which we could
most likely reach by boat. I had examined the land carefully for some sign of trii)ods, signal flags, cairns,
or something that would tell us that our friends had visited this spot in search of us, but nothing was seen.
We crossed the floe to the water's edge, the last load arriving at 9 p. m., thus making thirteen hours of
severe labor in the drag-ropes. We bivouacked on the floe, spreading our bags on the uneven surface of the
ice, for a few hours' rest. The shelters were not put up, as it was thought to be unnecessary for our brief
stay here. We must make an early start in the morning. We have drifted considerably towards the east
to-ilay with the current, and Capo Isabella, with the adjacent coast, has been opened up to view. I think
the land is within our grasp at an early hour to-morrow, if we do not drift too far into the sound during the
night.

iVfiiiiesiiiiy, September 19, 1883. — Alas! we are again doomed to a most bitter disappointment. Mis-
fortune and disaster, hand in hand, have accompanied us along the entire line of this retreat, and were we
at all superstitious, we could readily believe that the end of our existence is not far off. The high hopes of
escape whicii we entertained last evening have all been dashed to the ground. We are again drifting
helijlessly in Kane Sea under the influence of a southeast gale, which sprang up about midnight, and drove
us farther than ever from land. Not having erected the "tepee" last evening, on entering camp this morn-
ing our bags were found driven full of snow, and saturated with spray from the huge waves which came
dashing against the southern edge of the floe. As nothing could be done in the gale, we spent the day in
our sleeping-bags, listening to the roar of the waves, the howling winds, and reflecting on our helpless situa-
tion in this restless pack.

To our intense relief the gale abated at 6 p. m., and Lieutenant Greely at once called a council of
those who had previously attended. The general feeling and wish was to remain here until the floe gets
settled in some definite direction. Lieutenant Greely, however, advanced views which differed materially
from those expressed by the other members of the conference. He favors an attempt to reach the Green-
;xnd coast by abandoning everything except twenty days' provisions, the records, the boat, and sledge.
Walrus were seen in an open space near us to-day; seals were also seen, but none were shot. The spaces
or pools about us are very extensive.

Thursday, September 20, 1883.— Cloudy and foggy weather, together with fresh northerly winds and a
low temperature, are about as disagreeable as anything that could well be imagined. Nothing but water
and debris ice in sight i.ow. To be sure, we cannot see far owing to the heavy snow-storm which has
prevailed during the evening, but this ice condition is most likely the same everywhere. Could anything
be more wretched than having all these troubles come at once? We are certainly bearing burdens of woe
sufficient to crush men of ordinary will-power, but it will be found that the texture of our party is of the
right sort, and that adversity in its worst forms will have very little effect on their spirits.

Christiansen shot a large "bladder-nose" seal this afternoon which will dress about two hundred pounds.
The natives say that they are very plentiful at Upernivik, but are never met with at Proven. The same
will also apply to the walrus in those latitudes. The English stearine is now being used for cooking pur-
poses in the absence of wood. Alcohol is far superior as fuel, it being equally as economical, and the disa-
greeable etifects of soot are avoided. Bender, who is suffering with lung troubles, thinks the irritation due to
the soot and gases arising from using the stearine lamp in the small "tepee" where our meals are prepared.
The lamp throws off a great column of smoke and soot, which almost stifles the strongest man in the party.
Bender goes to the boat to exchange places with Connell, who has been ordered to the "tepee." Our drift
ajjpears to be tending towards the Greenland coast.

TIIK FiADV FKANKLIN IJAV KX I'KDITIOX.

451

/•'rii/iiy, Si'pkml'i) 21, 1885. — Snow tell iR-avily diirinj,' tlu- night and at intervals li> day. On fl'c whole
the wcatlicr lu's been wretched. A northwest f^ale, whii li has been in i)r()nress for several hours, has not
tnateriailv altered our position. C»ur sleeping-ljags, from the effects of the drifting snow which melts as
soon as it lodges on or in them, are in the most wret( he<l < ondilion imaginable. We have been closely
confined io them all day owing to the inclement weather. Jens shot three small seals to-day, all of which
were secured. His dusky companion is not less indefatigable in his duties as himter, but he is less fortunate
in discovering game. Rice and those belonging to his boat crew have built an iie-house for protection
against these raging storms which sweep mercilessly over this unsheltered tloe. Connell and Ralston are
sutVering greatly with the flux. In consideration of his condition the former was sent back to the boat,
and Salor took his place in the "tepee." Ralston has been placed in charge of the ice-boat lieaumont.
Schneider has been adding canvas tops to our leathern boots, thereby eking out our scanty supply of foot-
gear to its fullest extt .t. The ration of hard bread has been reiluced from sixteen to ten ounces per day,
and the issue for this evening was made oti that basis. The weather cleared somewhat towards night, and
we were afforded an excellent view of Cape Sabine, Hrevoort Island, and the adjacent land. There is a
great deal of water visible about our floe, but no connecting lead towards land.

Saturday, Scptcmhcr 22, 1883. — The sun appeared for a short time this morning, but was soon obscured
b) heavy clouds and a dense fog bank, which drifted across his disk. At an early hour this morning liender
reported having seen tb.e mast of one of our abandoned '..oats, with the signal flag still attachcl, at a distance
iii not more than two miles west of our position. Lieutenant dreely at once directed I'avy, Rice, (lardiner,
Salor, Linn, Schneider, Christiansen, Jens, and myself to put off in the ice-boat and attempt to reach it, and
bring it back to camp. We crossed a lane about half a mile wide, and leaving the boat in the ( harge of
the others, Rice, Jens, and myself went across the floe in the direction of the whale-boat whicli we ha<l aban-
doned and which we thought w.is ere this in Haftin Hay. When within a few hundred yards of the boat we
were abruptly stopped by a lane of water and sludge ice which precluded our advance. The sludge woulil
not bear our weight, and a boat could not be pushed through it. It is formed by the abrasion and wearing of
the grinding floes, and is a very serious obstacle to the navigation of these waters by small boats. We
examined carefully for some opening which would admit of our passing through, but none being found the
enterprise was abandoned.

We transferred the "tepee" to a snow-bank for greater comfort. The snow is warmer than the ice, and
will not melt underneath us so quickly, or rather the body of snow below absorbs the moisture. Last nigh
a large pool formed under Cross' bag. and this morning his i:lothing was thoroughly soaked. It was so
disagreeable, in fact, that the natives got up long before morning to avoid the misery of lying in a pool of
water and went hunting.

Israel's bearings place us about 14 miles east of the meridian of Cape Sabine, and in latitude 78° 53.6'.
Jans shot a large seal this morning, which unfortunately sank before it could be secured. On our return
from the attempt to secure the whale-boat this morning, the whole party was ordered out and re(|uired to
enter the ice-boat in order that her buoyancy and capacity might be tested. We were all able to enter, but
to do so required some to lie down in the bottom, and others to sit in cramped positions on the thwarts,
room being reserved for two oarsmen. After we were all settled down ciuietly it w^as found that she couUl
carry about 1,000 pounds more in a calm sea, but not more than half the party in a heavy sea. The gun-
wale wa > only about three inches [76"""! above the water-line. ^^ ith this knowledge before us we feel fairly
safe in 0.1 r present position, and confident of reaching the shore with our boat if the direction of our floe carries
us anywhere near it.

Judging from the occasional glimpses which we have caught of the land, our position has not changed
materially during the last three days. The boat having been injured this morning by running it over broken
ice, was examined and skillfully repaired by Elison. The only shovel iti our possession was lost overboard
this morning by Jewell. The temperature has been falling all day; at 6 p. m. it was -fS.o*^ [ — 13.3° C.j.

Sunday, Septembt-r 23, 1883. — A cold, raw, damp and stormy day. A high southeast wind accompanied
by snow tends to make this day the most disagreeable one that we have experienced this season. Teii.i)er-
ature +8.0° [-13.3° C.].

We appear to be drifting slowly back toward our old position near Cocked Hat Island. At noon we
were in latitude 78° 52', and only about eight miles from the islaud. Our drift in this ilirection would seem
to indicate the presence of a current through Hayes Sound to the west.

452

TIIK LADY FUANKLIN HAY KXIMCDITION.

it i ?a - . ,

Dr. Pavy has a large corps o*" patients now wlio arc all down with the tlux. Sehneider has heeii ite ill
for several days, ^nd is now much worse. Lieutenant Cireely having «ut one of his fingers badly with a piece
of ice is greatly inconvenienced in consei|uen<e of its inllanied condition. Cross has frozen slightly the hall
of one of his feet and linijis i>ainfully in walking. U'e tan now jiartake of seal-hluliber without t'le lea i
feeling of re|)ugnanee or annoyance. In this matter we can compete very creditably with the blubber-eatmg
races of the north. Lieutenant (ireely directs nie to go out to-morrow to reconnoiter for tlie chaiu es ol
obtaining a foothold on the whale-boat lloe. To judge from the direction in which we are being ilriftetl, we
are impressed with the belief that a current exists to the westward through Hayes Sound and is gradually
drawing us in that diret tion.

A/iniiAn, S<fti-»i/>i-r 24, 1S83.— .Southwest wind at 4 a. m. At 6 o'< lock it i hanged to northwest, and
remained at this jjoint during the day. .\t 9 a. m. we were six miles north of Hrevoort Island, and at 4 p. ni.
we were in latitude 78° 49' north. We liad at that time moved slightly to the west against the northwest
wind, which is almost conclusive proof to our minds of the existence of the current mentioned yesterday ai d
the day before.

I went out this morning in accordance with the instructions received yesterday from Lieutenant (Ireely,
but was turned back not far rom camp by the lanes 01 .Judge ice encountered. No route was considered
feasible except by the lane to the west of our camp, which had been dosing slowly since early morning.
In the afternoon I accompanied Lieutenant Lockwood and a small party in the boat to the floe on the
opposite side of this lane. Leaving a i>arty to watch the boat, we took Jens and proceedeil towards the
floe on which the whale-boat was resting. We had not gone far in this direction before we heard repeated
calls from Hender, who had been left a short ilistance behind to watch a suspicious-looking crack in the
floe. His frantic gestures warned us that the matter was really a serious one, and we hurried back with all
possible speed. We were none too soon. The floe bent, crundtled, and broke underneath our feet with
that dismal and groaning sounti peculiar to the ice alone ;mi! which wil a|)|iall the stoutest heart. On
reaching the i)lace where Hender stood, we found the narrow (••ack, over whii h we had crossed but a few
moments before, to be rapidly widening. It was already several feet in width; a few im lies more and we
would be too late. The eye glanced hastily along the seam to select the most narrow plaie, and with a
ipiick running leaj), into which all our strength and energy was thrown, we landeil on the opposite side
safely.

The game is getting scarce in this vicinity; only one seal has been soen to-day, and it was not taken.
Light snow fell at about 5 p. m., and the wind changed to northeast.

Tuesday, Scptemher 35, 1883. — The northeasl wind which was blowing last night continued brisk and
in the same direction to-day. Minimum temperature last night, -|-io.o° \ — \i.2° C.J. Our position at S
a. m. was 78° 48' N. latitude, and about one mile east of hrevoort Island. We will probably drift down
past the island iluring the next twenty-four hours, if the storm continues to rage .so violently much longer.
Living on this floe is worse than jirison life. I wonder if we will esca[)e from it soon?

The pack all about us is in motion; it is grinding, crumbling, and piling in masses high around the
edges of our friendly floe. The terrific pressure finally became so great, th.at the small corner of the floe on
which we were encamped broke away from the main portion, and before we could transfer with our eflects
to the larger and more substantial one, we had drifted apart, and the intervening siiace was soon filled with
dc'ibris ice. The line of separation ran not far from our "tepee," in which several of our men were at the
time. Fast ice is seen between Hrevoort Island and Cape Sabine; the former is only about two miles away.
.\t 2 p. m. our sus|)cnse and agony of mind was increased tenfold by the sudden change of the wind to th
northwest, which soon increased to a g.ale, and under the influence of its great velocity we were driven down
at a frightful rate, ])ast Cape Sabine. During the last few days we have had no watch or guard during the
night, but, owing to the dangers by which wc are now beset, one will be iletailed this evening.

WcdiU'sday, Scptemlhr 26, 1883. — I can never forget our exi)erience in the ilarkness la.st night. The
suspense of the last few hours has been a terrible strain to our minds and nerves. \ wild and awful night
was passed in the driving storm; with the tlark waters foaming about us, we momentarily expected to be
engulfed by their relentless waves. Our crijjpled floe — already small from abrasion with others of greater
size — has been again broken, leaving us scarcely space on which to take refuge with our boat and stores.

The violence of the storm had formed a large pool letwcen us and the lanil, and the waves, unham])ered
by ice, came rolling against our crystal raft, throwing spray over those who had the temerity to approach its

TIIK i.ADY KHANKLIN HAY KXI'KIUTION.

453

borders. We ufro driven down jmsl Payer IIarl")r and Rossc li.iy at an alarming rate of speed, l)y the
velocity of the wiiiil acting f>n the surface of our floe.

The (ooks were railed to iirejiare bro.ikfast long before daylight, in oriler that we might be ready at the
first streak of dawn to take advantage ol the open water, and thereby reaih the coast. Itut when daylight
revealed to us the land it was fully six miles away, and for onethird of that distance the water was covered
with debris ii e through which no boat (nuld be pushed, and for the remaining distance the sea was a seething,
foaming ocean whi( h would have swamped our boat in a moment. I'lven had it been |iossible to have nav-
igated the clear water, when the sludge or debris ice was reacheil the boat would have had to turn ba<k.

At 7 p. m. we were in latitude 78 ' 37' N. _ Owing to the heavy jiack lying east of us we are being
driven almost directly south along theioast instead of southeast, as the direction of the storm woidd tend to
drive us. Should wejiass down into ISatVm Hay we are inevitably lost, except we make the (,'arey Islands,
which is the only thing that will save us.

Fully onethird of our number has the flux badly. Its presence is attributed to the <'onstant and
excessive use of salt water in cooking our food, and also the liberal use of fresh seal meat. 'The use of salt
water is necessary, as our supjily of salt has been exhausted for some time.

The pressure <if the park embracing our floe was so great this morning that the little floe was cnmibled
into fragments, and we were forced to retreat |)re<ipitately to another for safety. The storm was in progress
at the time and mercilessly drove the fme granulated particles of snow in our faces in such a manner as to
barely enable us to make the elforts necessary to elfe<-t our escape. The icehouse which Rice and his |)arty
had constructed was crushed by an overlapping floe. Had they occupied it at the time of disruption none
would have escaped ali\e. While retreating one remarked: " I don't care if I am not saved; I have suflered
untold agonies since leaving Conger, an<l can see nothing but suffering in the future."

T/iiiru/ity, S,p/riii/>fr 2-], iSSj;. — The weather is still wretclied in the extreme; the atmosphere is so
ihick and hazy that the coast cannot even be sighted; consecpiently we have no clefmite idea of where we
are, or whether or not we are yet drifting with the pack. We are certain only of one thing, and that is our
terrible sufferings. Everything else is indelinite.

Rice and his party have no shelter for their sleei)ing-bags, and their condition is necessarily miserable.
So great were their sufferings during the storm to-day that they not only refused to get up to supper, but
they also declined their ration of rum which Lieutenant (ireely ordered to be issued them. No breakfast
«:ould be cooked owing to the drifting snow, and our bags were tilled with tl'.e finer particles of drift; our
clothing was saturated, and everybody was feeling as if there was but little pleasure after all in this world,
especially if in |)ursuil of glory in these regions. New victims of flux were announced to-<lay. I am now
included in the list. We spent the most of the day in our sleeping-bags.

Friday, Si-/>teiii/>fr 28, 1883. —The gale abated somewhat towards evening, and accompanied by
Christiansen I traveled to the westward of camp to observe the condition of the jiack, with the view of
facilitating our escape from this floe. We found a lead of water not far from cam[) which was about half a
mile in width, and which aflbrded excellent advantages. Our floe, having been lodged against a grounded
iceberg, has been held in this position since yesterday. We are in the entrance to Uaird Inlet and near its
northern shore. Had it not been for the providential intervention of this berg, we without doubt would have
been driven into Baffin Hay, and our fate would forever have remained a mystery to the world.

As no movement had been detected in the ice while I was watching it, I hastened back to camp and
reported the favorable opportunity which was now offered us. The party was at once stirring; the sledge
was hastily loaded and hauled to the lane, where the boat was launched. While Rice with a small party
was ferrying over the first load the remainder of the party was hauling to the boat landing the remaining
articles of our equipment and provisions. The entire party, together with all our stores, were transferred
across this water-space in seven loads. The floe on which we were now landed was about one mile in diam-
eter. Passing to the opposite side of this floe, we were stopped by new ice, which caused us to go into camp
for the night. We are about two miles from where we started and a little more than a mile from the land.
Through the loss of a shoe to our small sledge to-day our progress was greatly retarded. The boat, which
was left back about one mile, will be brought up in the morning. A tenon of our large sledge was broken
just before going into camp, but Elison has repaired it as carefully as the circumstances will permit.

Gardiner is quite ill. He reluctantly gave up his place in the drag-ropes this afternoon from sheer
weakness. Cross is also an invalid and cannot work in the traces with the others. He is allowed to hobble
along after the sledges in the beaten path, in orde; that his frosted foot may be treated as tenderly as possible.

454

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

i-:.

: \.im

Satttniny, Septt-mbfr 29, 1883. — Shore at last! Safe on land once more. Early this morning when the
cooks were called, I was directed by Lieutenant (Ireely to advance toward the land with a view of select-
ing a route for the sledges. I found that we had been deceived last evening in our expression of opinion
that the land was only one mile away. We were then in reality over four miles from the nearest point of
land that we could reach. The conditions of traveling were found to be higlily favorable for our sledges,
and the start was made almost immediately after my return (7 a. m.). We found it necessary to ferry every-
thing over two narrow leads of water before land could be reached. The last load arrived at the shore at
6 p. m. Every one was conscious of our danger, and each one worked with energy amounting almost to
desperation. As might be expected all are fagg"d out.

Our camp was made on the cold, barren, and snow-covered rocks fringing the base of the high conical-
shaped hill which had been so conspicuous a land mark, and which we had used a." a guide in traveling
towards shore. Our sleeping-bags were spread on the rocks, no shelters being erected owing to the
v^.-iriness of the men.

Walrus and seals have been seen in great numbers to-day, but the hunters have been unable to kill
anything, although they have hunted faithfully since morning. The bark of a dog heard by Dr. Pavy and
myself a few d.iys ago could have been nothing more nor less than the hoarse bellowing of a walrus. Hav-
ing heard the sound so frequently to-day, I am convinced of my error on that occasion. Several ravens
and a br.-ice of ducks were observed flying about us during the march. Tht former are considered as birds
of ill-omen, and many remarks tending to the subject were made by some of the superstitious ones.

Lieutenant Greely held another consultation with his officers and Rice and myself this evening regard-
ing the future movements of the party. Cross, I am sorry to record, has again abused the confidence
reposed in him by his companions, by purloining rum from their stores while they were absent bringing up
supplies. Having been excused from work in the drag-ropes on account of a frost-bitten foot, he was left
on the floe to guard tlie first load while the party went back for the second. On returning, we found him
in a beastly state of intoxication. Ralston and Schneider were witnesses of his perfidy. That this man has
neither honor nor manhood, is the honest conviction of all. He has been trusted repeatedly, but in every
ins'ance l^is uncontrollable thirst for drink has led him to ignore all moral obligations, and even to defy
author cy.

Sunday, Si'/<t<'m/>rr 30, 1883. — I was detailed this morning, together with eight others of the party, to
accompany Lieutenant Lock wood to Cai)e Sabine, fir the j)urpose of ascertaining what is in "^tore for us
there. Lieutenant Greely directed Corporal Salor and Christiansen to reconnoiter in the direction of Rosse
Bay, to observe the conditions of the ice for traveling with sledges, and also to examine Leconte Point for
caches of provisions which may have been left there I)y relief vessels. They returned after an absence of a
few hours, Salor reporting that serious obstacles in the form of open water and drifting ice would prevent
traveling in that direction for the present. For the same reason, they were prevented from reaching the
land at Leconte Point. On learning that the route was not practicable for sledges. Rice at once volunteered
to go to Cape .Sabine by traveling overland. He would take Jens as his companion, and they would carry
their sleeping-bag and provisions on their shoulders. He was at once granted permission to make this
hazardous journey, and they will start to-morrow morning, taking rations for four days.

It is more than probable that we will be compelled to pass the winter in this place. I am not sure but
that it otiers superior .advantages in the matter of game, but great suffering must necessarily be experienced
in wintering in this locality, be game ever so plenteous. While the channel is filled with these grinding
masses of ice, which are whirled rapidly about the current of the sound, there is no possibility of crossing
to Littleton Island with our one miserable little boat. 1 have no doubt tl at just now (while the new ice is
forming) if the attempt were made, it would result in disaster to the entire party.

This afternoon Rice found a level spot about half a mile north of camp which offers many inducements
as the site for our winter (juarters. Whisler discovered three Eskimo huts of ancient origin, which were in
a very dilapidated state, and I found several lieai)s of stone under which the natives iiad formerly made
caches of meat. Henry traveled westward along the north shore of this inlet for a distance of five miles,
but saw nothing of interest. Lieutenant Kislingbury crossed the gl.icier to the north and looked down into
Rosse 15ay. He saw two ptarmigan and also the tracks of a fox and bear. The iatur is quite near our
camp, (lame is very scarce. The hunters have killed nothing to-day. We are trying to delude ourselves
into the belief that relief will yet come to us this fall. After having passed two ye".is in these regions, and

Ki ^i

THK LADY KUANKLIN HAY KXI'KDITIOX.

455

havinj; traveled this far towards home, it is hard to understand that we are tonipellod to remain for a third
year, aiul that vmder particularly distressing circumstances.

Miiiday, OdohiT i, 1883. — Weather cloudy. The sun has fallen so near the hori/.on thin Tsrael was
unable to get an observation to-day, and the sky being so cloudy as to obscure all the stars; our posi'-on
was determined only approximately by reference to the English chart and the points visible along the coast
in our vicinity. In accordance with the arrangements made yesterday, Rice started at 8.30 a. m. accom-
panied by Jens, the faithful native. Ellis and Whisler accompanied them to transport their p;.cks across the
glacier just north of camp, which can be surmounted only with the greatest difficulty. On returning this
evering they reported that good progress was being made by the travelers.

Long killed a walrus to-day, but before the Eskimo >vith his kayak could reach the animal it disappeared
from view. I shot and wounded a wretched looking specimen of the arctic fox this evening. I le was detected
among the bags of provisions nibbling at the stearine, und when wounded by my bullet went slowly up the
hill limping painfully and being pursued by Bender, who was not more successful than myself as a marksman.

In company with Lieutenants L )ckwood and Kislingbury and Dr. Pavy, I visited the spot indicated
yesterday by Rice as a most desirable place on which to iocate our winter huts. The place is well sheltered
from the winds and in every way perfectly adapted to our i)urposes. The Eskimo formerly had their winter
houses built on this very spot, and that alone speaks volumes in favor of its adoption. Ik-sides the stones
from the dilapidated huts and the meat caches in the immediate vicinity, great numbers can reatlily be
obtained from the adjacent hill. The beds of moss growing sparsely on the bleak hillside will also be used
as lining to the w.ills. The huts will probably be three in numbei, as this place is <"- .ored by nearly all the
party.

Under the intluence of a southerly gale the ice in Smith Sound has all disappeared except the small
raft over which we escaped to land day before yesterday. Lieutenant Kislingbury says that last evening at
5 o'clock the sound was entirely open to Littleton Island. Light snow fell at 6 p. m. Jewell, Eli on, and
Henry went out after the reindeer moss which grows nere in anything but abundance, and they obtained
very little ; neither did they observe any traces of game during their absence.

Tiirsi/iiw Oitohi-r 2, 1883. — The cloudy weather continues. I wonder if we will ev> r again be blessed
with pleasant weather! When Connell arose this nu,..,ing to perform the duties of cook, he doteiied a
small blue fox in the act of purloining food from the bags of provisions. He immediately fired at the
thieving rascal, !)Ut without ertect.

I took an inventory of the commissary stores last evening, and found but thirty-five (35) days full
rations of hard bread and meat remained. These rations, however, can be extended to fifty (50) days by sub-
jecting ouiselves to a greatly reduced <liet, but the suffering which this would entail would necessarily be
extreme in consetiuence of the low temperatures and the hard work which we will perform in building our
houses. Fifty days will carry us to November 15 even if no game be taken m tiie interval, and at tli.it
date we will be either on the Greenland coast or in Haffin Bay. Lieutenant Greely says he will atteiniit to
cross tjie sounil to Littleton Island when but ten <lays' provisions remaiii to us, despite the almost certain
d'struction to the party which would follow such an attempt. Of course if Rice finds abundance of pro-
visions, as we hope he will, at Cape Sabine, this plan will be willingly aliandoned for one less dangerous.

By direction of Lieutenant Greely, I-ockwood and myself selected a building site for our winter
habitation. We found a splendid place about half a mile north of our present encampment, which is well
sheltered by the promontory (Eskimo Point) on one side and tliM hills and glacier on the other two. The
buildings will face the sound to the southwest. In the afternoon we moved down the camp e(iuii)age and
sufficient provisions to last us five or six days. The ice is very wet and sloppy, and our feet were sub-
jected necessarily to great colil wwA dampness.

Long and C'hristiansen have been detailed by Lieutenant Greely as permaiu'iit hunter'-; they killed
notiiing to-day. The native is ot the opinion that game of all kinds has left the pools in the vicinity of the
grounded bergs and has taken refuge in the open water.

The ration of broad was reduc'cd to six (6) ounces, potatoes to one and one-half (ij^^), and meat was
again reduced to twelve (12) ounces. One ounce of extract of beef has been added to our ration to com-
pensate in a degree for the reduction.

Wednesday, October j,, 1883. — At the coun';il cy.Ued by the commanding officer this morning it was
decided to construct three houses for the winter juartj rs of the party. A division of the party for occupanc y
of these houses will be made as follows: Hon -j number i : Lieutenants Greely and Lockwood, Sergeants

- »

456

THE LADY FltANKLIN HAY EXPIiJDITION.

; m -i

?ii-

Rice, Gardine', J«?well, and Klison, and Privates Linn and Ellis. Number 2 : Lieutenant Kislingbury, Dr.
Pavy, Sergeants Connell, Ralston and Israel, C'orporal Salor, Acting Hospital Steward Biederbick, and
Private Long. Number ,3; Sergeants Brainard and Cross, Privates Bender, Henry, Frederick, Schneider
and Whistler. The two faithful natives, Christiansen and Jens, are aho to be quartereci in my hut. Three
ancient Eskimo i^i^/ocs furnished abundant material for building purposes, and when we discontinued work
this evening the stone foundations to our houses were well advan> cd. In order that the work may be
expedited, and that every nan may work to advantage and to his own interest, each of the three parties
confined their labors to their own building.

Light snow has fallen and high winds have prevailed all day, making our work anything but agreeable.
The hunters saw a few walrus but no seals. A solitary snow-bunting, evidently separated from its mate was
observed hopping about the camp, pecking the scanty crumbs and chirping mournfully. It did not remain
with us long, but soon took flight to the southward, probably in search of more congenial climes. Cross's
foot is improving; Gardiner's finger is also somewhat better. The channel is again filled with heavy
paleocrystic ice, which is moving witli the current at a rapid rate in the north water, being urged by the
pressure of the northern pack. With this the last hope of crossing to Littleton Island is gone.

Thursday, October 4, 1883. — It has been clear and beautiful weather to-day. This will be a great
.advantage to poor Rice and Jens, who are ever thought of in their lonely and toilsome journey through an
isolated and unknown region. A northeast gale threatened 'o relieve us last night of our shelter, the
«' tepee," but it stood up bravely against the wind's terrific force. The temperature is slowly falling; at 4
p. m. the thermometer registered +8.0° [" — ; 3.3° C.].

Our houses are progressing with ."stonishi. g rapidity and they will soon be in readiness to occupy. The
old igloos are of the greatest value in the supply of stones and mosses which they furnish. We discontinued
work on the huts at 2 p. m. to haul down a loud of the stores left at our old camp. 'l"he hunters saw a
walrus on the ice during the day, but it was found impossible to reach him, owing to an intervening lane of
water and debris ice. The roaring and grinding noise produced by the convulsive and rumbling pack is
fearful to hear; the channel is ("lUed from shore to shore with ice \\ !iich is being moved with irresistible force
by the tide and currents.

Dr. Pavy requested, or rather recommenced, that during the working days the corned beef be increased
to 16 ounces; pemmican, when used in lieu of beef, to 14 ounces, and bread to 3 ounces. This change
was adopted bv Lieutenant Greely.

Friiiay, Oi/olvr ^, 1883. — The day has been very foggy and somewhat disagreeable; temperature, +7.0^
[ — 13.9° C.l. The walls of my house were completed to-day, and the interior was filled with moss collected
with great labor and patience from the ridge west of camp. The walls are built of stone, and are about 3^
feet [about i"'J high. We contemplate building a large snow wall about the 'entire structure, which will
prevent the penetration of cold air from the outside. One man from each hut was selected to represent his
respective mess, and lots were drawn for the boat, which is to be used as a roof for one of the three dwellings.
Unfortunately for the other households the man representing the interests of my hut carried off the jjrize,
and it will be put up to-morrow. The dimensions of my house are 18 feet [5.5'"] by 8 feet 1 2.4111]. The
other houses are progressing well but not so f;ist as ours. The remainder of the stores were hauled up from
Refuge Point this afternoon. No game was seen to-day except a ptarmigan, which was shot by Cross.

Saturday, October 6, 1883. — The minimum temperature last night was -|- 12.5 [—10.8° C.]. We placed
the boat lengthwise over the hut to-day, and covered the remainder of th" space with the launch canopy,
which had been brought with us when the Lady Greely was abandoned.

Lieutenant Greely detailed several of the party who are to constitute a board to make a division of the
canvas, oars, and other material used in the construction of our huts. He had appointed me as one of the
members, but I asked to be relieved from acting in this capacity, owing to my position, and on considering
the matter he acceded to my wishes. Notwithstanding the fact that I refused lo have anything to do with the
division of these articles, 1 was afterwards accused by Israel of being the leader in a "grab game," as he
expresseu it, "and looking out," he said, "for the interest of my own party too well." I took him before the
commanding officer and stated the misrepresentations which had been ma le regarding my conduct. Israel
then told his .s^oiy and e.xplanalions followed which resulted in my vindication.

The houses were all covered to-day, and the messes moved into their respective abodes. Long and
Christiansen each shot a small seal, but only one was secured; the other sank before it could be reached,

mmmn^

THE LADV FHANKLIN HAV I^XPKDITION.

457

The one saved will weigh about 75 pounds. It has been intimated to nie that Israel was incited in wliat
he did by one of the noncommissioned officers who should have known better, but who has a special
aptitude for fault-finding.

Sundii\\ October 7. 1883. — This has been a clear and beautiful day; minimum temjjerature, +12.0°
[ — ii.i^ C.J. The (ireenland coast rose up proniinently before us, every ravine and irregularity along the
coast line being distinctly outlined. Mow we all desire to attain that coast — that land with its ]iromises of
abundance of game and salety to our i)arty. Notwithstanding the fact that this is the Sabbath the work of
construction was resumed this niorning and coniiinied all day. Rice is now due here. In anticipation of
his return, KUis and Whi&Mer were sent across the glacier to meet him, but while going over the crest a
dense fog rolled u]) from the sound which turned them back, iliey ha-. 'ng no (oinpass with which to shape
their course.

For alleged misconduct Connell was reduced from the rank of sergeant to the grade of jjrivate by order
of Lieutenant (Ireely; Linn was advanced from jirivate to sergeant. Israel c.ime to me this morning and
apologized in a n inly way for his unjust accusati.)ns of last evening, and said that he had been intluenced
to make the remarks by the representations of one of the men of his mess.

I accidentally learned this evening that a feeling of dissatisfaction existed in certain (|uarters because of
alleged partiality on my ])art in issuing bread to "a favorite few." 1 innnedi.itely reipiested Lieutenant
Greely to relieve me from the onerous and thankless chities of first sergeant, and also that some one else be
appointed to issue the provisions. He refused to relieve lae from these trying and irksome duties, and said
that he had perfect faith in my manner of issuing the jirovisions, aiid that he |)la(eil implicit conOdence
in me in every way, notwithstanding the slanderous remarks which were ipade in secret, and which h;id never
been brought to his notice. In the future I will endeavor to ]ierform the impon at duties |>ertaining to my
trust as I have i'' ^^'i "ast with impartiality ami a rigid adherence to justice. Hut it is hard to endure tl'.o- _•
reflections on my fairness when I have striven so hard to satisfy all. \Vith the confidence of my <onnnander,
however, I shall reijuire no other incentive to carry out the duties confided to my i are. The base insinuations
of the few of my comrades will be borne with that fortitude whicii all are displaying during this tiAingjuriod.

Bender and Schneider collected seven bags of saxifrage for our bunks, and the remainder of in)- little
mess gathered mos.s to cover the roof of our hut. Long and C'hristiansen shot a walrus on the floe, but
the creature had life enough left in its body to roll itself into the water, thus esca]'ing from his tormentors,
but leaving the ice and the water where he sank stained for yards around with his crimson blood. It ajipcars
as if we were being pursued by the worst kmd of ill luck; nothing goes right any more. The greater part
of the game killed thus far has sank belbre it could be reached by the hunters, and almost nothing is added
to our slender stock of provisions, which are slowly but surely diminishing. Christiansen shot a ]>tarmigan
before breakfast this morning, and saw a blue fox out on the floe, which he jiursaed but did not capture.

Monday, October 8, 188?, — The weather has been cloudy all day, and there are many indications of a
speedy snow-storm. Minimum temperature last night was -|-i2° [ — ii.r^ C.].

Rice has not yet returned to us. He is probably detained by young ice or a severe stonn; nothing
else could keep him. God grant that he may return in safety, as we cannot well spare such a noble soul
from our party just now. We completed the roof to our shanty and put the finishing touches on our bunks.
Bender has made me a pair of scales, vvhich, though rude, will nevertheless greatly assist me in weighing out
the scanty allowances of food to the several messes. A mischievous fox visited the camp last night and
succeeded in stealing ^ of a pound of meat, which had been placed on the roof of one of the huts to be
beyond the reach of these little thieves. The eflbrts of the hunters have again met ivith bad luck. Chris
tiansen shot two seals, but before he could sciuee/.e himself into his kayak and paddle out to them they had
both disappeared. It is indeed heart-rending to see this fi)od — which is oin- very life — sink befor*: our eyes,
and we powerless to save it.

Tuesday. October v), 1883. — ('lear and calm weather. Rice returned to us at 4 j). in., and reported
having found records at Cajje Sabine and vicinity, which placed him in pcissession of facts most unwelcome
and disheartening. The one redeeming feature in I.is re|)ort, however, is the knowledge of the different
caches at Cape Sabine which will aggregate about one thousand rations. The recordji which were taken
from the caches at and near Cape Sabine, and those taken from the cairn on Hrevoort Island, best tell the
tale. The first record stated that in the summer of iS8j the steam sealer Neptune, of St Johns, N. F.,
under command of Captain Sopp, had visited Smith Sound, and endeavored to reach Lady Franklin Hay,
but was repulsed by the impenetrable pack encountered near Victoria Head. They evidently returned to

458

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

1 i

St. Johns the same season, taking with them all supplies except a small depot of two hundred and forty
rations, which they left on the '-.oast just west of Cape Sabine, and a duplicate depot at Litt':ton Island.
There is nothing positive, however, known of the existence of the latter, as the depot had not been made
when the record v/as written. The expeditionary force was commanded by Major Beebe, a member of the
Signal Corps, and private secretary to General Hazen at the time we left Washington in 1881.

The second record was signed by Lieut. E. A. Garlington, Seventh Cavalry, U. S. A., and stated that
the Prolfus, while working northward through Smith Sound, was crushed by ice on July 2 jd of this year;
and that everything except a few rations and a few articles of clothing was lost. His own party of fourteen
men, with Captain Pike and twenty-one men, were to cross to Littleton Island, and would endeavor — as we
interpret the record — to communicate with this coast. He also states that the Yaiitic has orders to reach
Littleton Island, and that a Swedish steamer will reach Cape York some time during the latter part of July.
The record contains two passages which are particularly encouraging. The first reads as follows: "I will
endeavor to communicate with these vessels at once, and everything within the power of man will be done
to rescue the brave men at Fort Conger from their perilous position." The second: " I will leave for the
eastern shore just as soon as possible, and endeavor to open communication." With assurances such as
these, we cannot but feel that our countrymen are in some manner working for our relief. At the best, our
situation is a desperate one. There are twenty-five mouths to feed from the rations at Cape Sabine, anil
that amount cannot last long. If a party desires to aid us, they must come soon.

Rice discovered that Rosse Bay and Buchanan Straits were connected by a narrow strait; this strait
Lieutenant Greely at once named in honor of the man through whose heroism and devotion the discovery
was made. This discovery makes Cape Sabine an island. Lieutenant Greely has decided to abandon these
huts, and move the entire party to Cape Sabine, it being impracticable to bring the rations to this point.
We will take the first load to Rosse Bay to-morrow.

Wednesday, October 10, 1883. — A heavy snow-storm has prevented us from moving to Rosse Bay with
the first load of stores, as contemplated yesterday. The sledge, however, has been loaded, and we will
advance it at the first favorable opportunity. Rice, the brave fellow, has again volunteered for a hazardous
service — that of going to Cape Isabella to ascertain if any provisions were left there by Bebee in 1882^
when he landed the whale-boat. The temperature has been very high during this snow-storm, (iame
appears to be very scarce ; a few thieving foxes have been seen lately, but they always manage to maintain
a safe distance between themselves and our rifles. Several ravens have been observed during the last few
days. Two or three of these birds of ill omen flew over our huts to-day, uttering their ominous and dis-
cordant croaks as if in derision of our hapless condition.

Thursday, October ii, 1883. — The sky has been bright and clear to-day, and the spirits of our jjarty
naturally took an upward tendency. Minimum temperature last night, +7.0 1 — 13.9° ^"•J* ^''^*^ ^"^^ Chris-
tiansen started for Cape Isabella at an early hour this morning. The sledge party started at 6.45 a. m. for
Rosse Bay and returned at 3.15 p. m. On loaching Leconte Island it was found necessary to take to the
high ice-foot on account of the young ice outside, which would not support the weight of our sledge. On
arriving at the hut we found that Cro.ss had again been tampering with the rum can, and as a natural result
of his il'icit indulgences he was in .i mnudlin state of intoxication. I at once reported the circumstances
to Lier.ienant (ireely for hi.i nistructions, but he said, and very truly, that nothing could be done with him
except to resort to violent measures, and this he would not permit. " To do this," he said, " would bring
only reproach to the party ; the disgrace which this man has brought on himself would remain unchanged."
It is certainly discouraging to labor all day in the low temperatures while this man remains in camp doing
nothing except to satisfy an abnormal ap|)etite for strong drink at the expense of those who are trying to
save him. To-lnorrow we intend to abandon the huts and march to Cape Sabine, where, as soon as pos-
sible, new winter quarters will be constructed. Long shot a seal this evening which will weigh forty pounds.

Friday, October 12, 1883. — The canvas, ropes, oars, and poles from which the roofs of the huts were
constructed, were all removed and taken with us. The iceboat Beaumont was left on the skeleton walls of
my hut. The party started with the two sledges at 8 a. m., taking all the property and i)rovisions with tl em.
After seven hours of the severest labor imaginable, we reached Rosse Bay at the point where the load
of stores had been dropped day before yesterday. Here we halted for the night, and prepared to make
ourselves as comfortable as circumstances would permit.

This is a cold and disagreeable night, and my fingers are so nearly frozen that they can scarcely clasp
the pencil. Despite the raw and chilling winds which are sweeping over this desolate spot, our bags have

THE LADY FRANKLIN 1$AY EXPEDITION.

459

been spread down on the ity rocks, and without shelter or i)rotection of any kind we have prepared to pass
a wretched night. The issue of a small quantity of rum served to bright.n the feelings and render us less
sensible to .^ 'r sufferings. Owing to the friction caused by the roughly-shod runners on the small sledge, it
will not be used again, but double trips with the large sledge will be made instead.

Snliiniay, October 13, 1883. — We had left our sledge standing on the floe when we retired last evening,
and on rising this morning it was found to have been submerged by the overflowing tide. The bending of
the new ice under the weight of the sledge and a portion of its load, c;,used a depression in the floe which
was soon filled by water and the sledge completely covered. The sledge was secured only with the greatest
difficulty, one having to wade through the ice-cold water to attach to it a rope, with which it was hauled to
a place of safety. We slept very little, or not at all, last night, on account of the frozen bags and the un-
sheltered position of our camp. We crossed Rosse Bi^y by keeping close up to the face of the glacier, thus
avoiding a few of the many treacherous places where nothing but a thin sheet of ice separated us from
disaster and death. Notwithstanding our caution we felt it necessary at times to rely on chance, and so
traveled over places where the ice was so thin that it would bend and crack under the combined weight of
the sledge and party. Jens, who was selected to perform the important and dangerous duty of finding a
route over the young ice, did nobly, and not once did his unerring judgment in these matters serve him badly.

Camp was made on the north side of Rosse Bay at the entrance to Rice Straits, and the two loads
deposited here at the end of nine (9) hours from the time of starting this morning. The hauling was
comparatively easy, owing to the small lubble studding the floe, which caused the sledge to go dancing along
at a merry gait. When returning for the second load, a terrible crash was suddenly heard which caused us to
stop short with consternation and fear. Just in front of us the ice was torn asunder as by an invisible hand,
and a huge black "snout" forcing itself through this fissure protruded for many feet into the air, throwing
fragments of ice in every direction. Supposing that some mighty leviathan of the deep was aiming at ou,-
destruction, we proceeded to investigate the matter with extreme caution and alertness. Imagine our
surprise and disgust when the "snout" was found to be nothing more dangerous than a huge block of ice,
which, having been detached from the base of the berg close by, made its appearance at the surface in the
manner described. Occasional incidents of this kind are the only variations of the almost depressing
monotony which characterize our marches. We traveled 18 miles; the distance made good, however, was
only 6 miles. High wind; temperature this evening, +3 [—16.1° C.]. The alcohol allowance was not
suthcient this evening to prepare the supper.

Sunday, October 14, 1883. — High winds accompanied by snow are the worst features of the day. After
a frugal breakfast of raw dog-pemmican, we broke camp at 8.15 a. m. and began our toilsome march. As
Rice Strait was not entirely frozen over, we were forced to follow the western shore closely. In one
instance the water had encroached so near to the ice-foot that it became necessary for us to take to the
land. In many places the sledge seemed on the point of breaking through the thin and bending ice, but
fortune favored our cause and the impending duckings were escaped. Had the sledge broken through this
ice at any time it would necessarily have proved fatal to many of the men, and the sledge and its load of
stores would also have been lost. The current ran with such velocity through this channel that it would
have swept at once the party under the floe. The two loads were hauled to camp in about nine hours, and
the distance traveled was about the same as that traveled yesterday.

A fine hot supper of pcmmican was served us in the evening, and for a brief jteriod all our woes and
wretchedness were apparently forgotten. The last drop of our Medford rum was issued at the completion
of the march to-day, A small white fo\, which Rice and Jens had killed with their staff a few days ago,
was taken from the rocks where they had cirl'.ed it, and added to our larder. Henry reports having frosted
one of his feet slightly to-day. He was observed to eat with evident relish some of the raw seal intestines
containing shrimps. We camped on the south side of Buchanan Strait at the entrance to Rice Strait. The
bare rocks were our only l)eds, and our only protection against the bleak winds were our thin buffalo-skin
sleeping-bags. A small lake was found in the vicinity, which will supply us with fresh water for cooking
purposes.

Monday, October 15, 1883. — We probably passed tlie most wretched night of our lives in the howling
storm which rose soon after we had retired last night. Had we been under the shelter of tents it would not
have been such a serious matter, but without any protection except one thickness of hide, and that frozen as
hard as flint, is something that I do not care to experience again. Temperature this morning was — i .0°
[—18.3° C.]. Lieutenant Greely, Gardiner, and Jens started out in advance of the party to select a route

460

THE LADY FHAMKIilN HAY EXPEDITION.

! 11

1!* ' ■

II hi 1:1

through the hummocks along the coast. Oardiner, who has not worked in the drag-ropes on this trip owing
to illness, has nevertheless made himself very useful all along in selecting routes for the sledges.

The main party, with loaded sledge, left camp at 7.30 a. ni. and traveled along the coast past Cocked
Hat Island towards Cape Sabine.

Wc left a large cache of stores, which we do not require for our immediate use, at the cam]) which wc
have just left. The ice along the route was very rough and hummocky, our load very heavy, and, as a
sequence to our previous misfortunes, our sledge broke down. Much valuable time was consumed in making
the necessary repairs, and when they were comitleted we did no* dare to venture the entire load again, so a
portion was left on the floe where the accident occurred. We advanced with the remainder, reaching the
Proteus wreck cache at 2.30 p. m. This is probably about three miles from Cape Sabine. Lieutenant Greely
had already examined the cache, and he expressed niuch regret at the small amount of meats in coi lorrison
with the great quantity of other articles of lesser nutr'Mve value. Of vegetables, raisins, lemons, clothing,
boxes, mirrors, <li:c., there is a profuse display; there is also about twenty pounds of Durham tobat^co and
ten of plug. A portion of this was issued to the smokers ; the non-smokers received a (juantity of raisins in
lieu thereof. The latter were Lic'itenant Greely. Rice, Long, Hiederbick, Salor, Frederick, and myself

Rice and Christiansen arrived from Cape Isabella ^oon after we had encamped. They report having
found 144 pounds of canned meat at Isabella, which Sir George Nares deposited there in 1875; but they
were unable to finil any trace of the boat which Beebe was to have landed at that point.

Tiiisday, October 16, 1883. — The snow has been falling heavily all day, and a high wind greatly adds
to its disagreeable effects. A large party was dispatched under Lieutenant Lockwood to bring up the stores
abandoned yesterday on tlie floe where the sledge was broken. Lieutenant Greely, Rice, and myself went
to the Beebe cache to j)repare it for transportation to tliis camp, where we are to establish our winter quarters.
Lieutenant Kislingbury and Jens went to Payer Harbor to examine the clothing cache. We carried the wall
tent contained in tlie cache back to camp. Rice and myself afterwards returned to get a quantity of the
Medford rum for daily issue. The ])arty under Lieutenant I.ockwood returned at about 2.30 p. m., and all
hands were at once turned out to erect the walls of a snow house. The blocks were cut from a neighboring
drift and the walls built about three feet [-9"'| high. Tlie roof was made with oars and the spare sails. It
is a poor shelter at the best, but still it is better than none at all. The wall tent will be used by the cooks
as a kitchen.

Wednesday, October \i, 1883. — A strong northwest wind rose during the night, which sifted the snow
through the openings in the walls of our house, and thus rendering the already pitiable condition of our
party ten times worse than before. The sufferings of the party are extreme; Biederbick and Long are unable
to labor with the others, and Cross and Gardiner are liardly able to assist themselves. With our large party
to feed and the few rations at our disposal the prospect for the future is indeed a cheerle.ss one. The Beebe
cache, including the whale-boat, was moved up to this camp during the day. The boat is badly broken?
and we have nothing with which to repair the injury. Minimum temperature la.st night, —6.5° [ — 21.4° C.].
Thursday, October 18, 1883. — Cold, very cold, and the disagreeable snow continues to fall. Lieutenant
Greely consulted witli the party this morning regarding the jite for our winter (juarters. It was finally decided
to erect the hut on the west side of this point of land, and the construction of the walls was at once begun.
The dimensions will be as follows; Length of house, 25 feet [7.6'"]; width, 18 feet [5.5'"], and the height of
walls about 4 feet [t.2'"]. The walls were nearly completed this evening; the party to a man working well.
All our provisions will be hauled from this point (wreck cache) across the little divide to where the house
is being erected. Christiansen this evening shot a blue fox.

J'nday, October ig, 1883. — tMoudy, dismal weather; a fresh southwest wind and the temperature 9
degrees below zero [ — 22.8° C] are climatic conditions which are not at all conducive either to comfort or
hapi)iness. Comfort, in fact, is something of the past; it n<;ver greets us now, but in its place the most abject
misery reigns.

'I'he whale-boat has been placed lengthwise over the middle of the walls of our hut, and oars fastened
at the gunwale by one end sloping downward to the walls, thus serving as rafters. Canvas was drawn over
these rude rafters and securely fastened at the sides and'ends. C)ver this frame were placed thin blocks of
snow in such a manner as to exclude not only the light, but the wind as well. On the floor of the hut a
small {[uantity of sand was thrown to cover the snow and ice. AVe moved in during the afternoon, finding
these quarters much more comfortable than the battered old walls near the wreck cache. A small lake only

THE LADY FRANKLIN RAY EXPEDITION.

461

a few yards east of our new house will furnish us with an adequate supi)ly of fresh water during the coming
months.

Saturday, October 20, 1883. — The weather is cloudy and disagreeable. A high northwest wind caused
considerable drift and necessitated the discontinuance of work at i p. ni. Temperature, — 13.0° [ — 25.0" C'.].
The roof of our dwelling was completed this morning, and snow blocks were prejjared for the construction
of a protective wall outside and around the building. We are feeling comparatively comfortable in our new-
quarters, and are of the opinion that with proper food we could endure the cold and dampness very well.

The subject of our winter's schedule of provisions was this evening under discussion by invitation of
Lieutenant Greely. With two or three exceptions the entire party concurred in the opinion e.\[)ressetl by
Lieutenant Llreely, that with strict limitations we could extend our provisions to March 10, at which time
we hoped to be at Littleton Island. Dr. I'avy declared this to be an impossibility, and Lieutenant Kisling-
bury wanted the limit to l)e placed at February i instead of March 10.

Sunday, October 21, 1883. — Weather fair; light westerly wind and a temperature of —3.5° [—19-7° C.|
causes the day to be far from disagreeable. A party of sledges numbering fourteen, i ntler the command of
Lieutenant Lock wood, proceeded to the entranvC of Rice Straits for the cache left there on the 15th inst.
Long, who having volunteered with the I'lskimo to hunt at Rice Straits, was left in camp at that point with
the wall tent, sleeping-bags, &:c. We returned to camp with the load at a late hour this evening, rhorouglily
exhausted from our efforts. Everybody complains of eNcessivc weakness, aiid even *he stroti;;i;st of our
party may be seen to stagger while walking along. A lemon in lieu of lime-juice was issued to each man this
evening. The scraps of newspa|)crs in which the lemons were wrapjjcd have been carefully removed and dried
for future reading. It will indeed l)e a rare treat to again receive news from the civilized world. From these
scraps we have already learned that (jarfield died on September 19, 1881, and that Anhur is now President.
Lieutenant Greely, Jewell, Israel, Uender, Biederbick, and Whisler are on the sick-rtport and did not go
out to-day.

Monday, October 22, 1883. — Rice, with three men, was ordered to Cape Sabine, to bring up a few articles
of clothing. He was also directed by Li'^itenant Greely to place in the cairn on Brevoort Island a record
which the latter had prepared. This paper stated, in substance, where we may be found, and also how
destitute we are. The other members of the party who were able to work transferred the provisions from
our first canq) to our iiresent abode. High winds, accompanied by snow, have prevailed all day. Ellis
celebrates his forty-third birthday.

Tuesday, October 2^, i?,?,^. — Cloudy weather; wind blowing from the northwest; temperature, —16.0
[ — 26.7° C.J. We took the pendulum and records to Payer Harbor and cached them at the I'^-nglish depot
of provisions. We started to return with a portion of this depot, but our sledge broke down, and we were
forced to return without it. This accident made a very bad impression on some of the men, who are about
discouraged through these series of mishaps. Frost-bites are qu;te common; almost everybody is afflicted in
this manner. Ellis is quite ill. He was compelled to leave the sledge near Payer Harbor to-day and return
to the house.

Wednesday, October ia., 1883. — The snow is falling heavily, and a high northwest wind has been blowing
all day, causing a disagreeable drift; temperature, —5.5 [ — 20.8° C.]. Twelve men, incluiling myself, went
down to Payer Harbor to repair and haul in the broken sledge. Elison repaired it in a short time, but soon
after starting it was again broken and abandoned. The men were very tired and weak from their prolonged
exertions and the effects of a meager diet. Our sufferings in this disagreeable storm, while struggling to
secure this load of provisions, are such as were never before experienced in these regions.

Thursday, October 25, 1883. — Light westerly winds, accompanied by snow; temperature, —4.0
[ — 20.0° C.]. The sledge has been repaired by Elison in a most skillful manner, and this afternoon it was
hauled to camp without further accident. Work on the snow-wall about the house was resur.ied this after-
noon. The hunters returned from Rice Straits this morning, bringing with them a seal which weighed about
65 pounds. They left their tent and sleeping-bags at the cape, with the intention of t.''king an additional
supply of provisions and returning to resume their hunting.

Two barrels of dog-biscuit, weighing 1 10 pounds each, were found in the English depot on Stalknecht
Island. This afternoon 1 opened one of them and found a large percentuje entirely ruined. That which
was thoroughly rotten and covered with green mold was thrown on the ground, and was eagerly devoured
by the half-famished party. What, I wonder, will be our condition when we undergo a still greater
reduction in our rations ?

*ii

j>, <i:

!.!

tK t t" '

i lilt lot-
t UK'

462

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

The first of a series of very pleasant entertainments tooic place to-night. The scraps of newspapers taken
from the lemons were read aloud for fifteen minutes by Rice just after dinner. This will be repeated every
night until all are read. I observed an aurora this evening at an eirly hour.

Friday, October 26, 1883. — Biedcrbick observed an aurora this morning at 4 o'clock; tem[)erature,
— 15.0 [—26.1° C], Light westerly wind. 'I'he sun disappeared below the hori/on to-day, to reap, ear no
more until the latter part of February, 1 wonder how many of us will ever look on his glorious face again ?
We started for Cape Sabine at 7 a. m. On our return the sledge again broke down under the weight of a
bulky load. As it was growing dark at that time, no attempt was made at repairs, but the party at once
returned to the hut, where they worked for some time on the snow-wall. There is a vast expanse of open
water to the north, but very little can be seen in the direction of the Greenland coast. The hunters were
out at the margin of the ice all day, but saw no game.

Saturday, October 21, 1883. — The weather is again cloudy and disagreeable; and the lowest tempera-
ture yet experienced by us on these shores was recorded last night, namely, —22.0 f — 32.8° C.].. The
sledge was once more repaired, and the load which we abandoned yesterday on tiie floe was hauled to
camp. The temperature of the interior of Tie hut this morning was 1-33.0 [ + 0.6° C.J. The hunters were
not successful in their efforts to secure game to-day. The commissary store-house was broken into last
night and a small qu^'ntity of hard bread taken.

Lieutenant Giedy has decided to call this place "Camp Clay," in honor of Mr. Henry Clay, a fellow-
passenger on the Proteus in 1881 to Lady Franklin Bay, from which place he returned to St. John's. We
found a Louis\'ille Courier-Journal in one of these caches, which contains an article written by Mr. Clay
regarding our deplorable situation, and makiiig certain specific recommendations which, it is needless to say,
have not been followed by the Government. He predicts in this article our jjresent condition, and urges that
Cape Sabine (where we now are) should be jjiovisio; ed. Tobacco «as issued to the smokers this evening.

Sunday, October 28, 1083. — Temperature, —17.5 [—27.5° C.J; inside the hut it stood at +24.0
[—4.4° C.J. A party of ab lut twelve or fourteen of the strongest men went to Cape Sabine for another load
of the clothing, wood, &'c., there. On our return the sledge was again broken, but it was nevertheless hauled
into camp for repairs. The load, however, was abandoned at the point where the sledge became crippled.
This is indeed discou' aging. Worse, it is terrible! What are we to do? Every hope which we may have
entertained for relief this autumn, any mitigation of our hardships which we may have exijccled, have been
swept away in the last few days. While those of the civilized world — those who have forgotten us in our
hour of need — are enjoying the luxuries with which that land is teeming, this band of wretched, shivering
creatures are now fighting starvation, and are about to face the frosts of a third arctic winter. Owing to the
severity of the storm, the hunters did not go out to-day.

Mondcy, October 29, 1883. — The temperature has risen suddenly to +5.0 [ — 14.7° C.J. The barometer
has been placed in position so that regular observations of that instrument may be taken. The hunters went
out this morning as usual, but returned without having seen anything. Long, unfortunately, fell through the
ice to his hips. He reached the hut with some difiiculty, where he was subjected to a drying process before
he could again venture out. I made an issue of clothing to-day. The garments are covered with ice, and
as they are thawed and dried by being placed in contact with the warm body, the process is necessarily a
very trying and irksome one. The "ledge was repaired this morning, and another load hauled irom Payer
Harbor. The sledgers complain of great exhaustion after the sivere trials of to-dav, some are almost
prostrated. In consequence of being subjected to greater physical jirain, the strongi:st members of the party
will probably be the first to succumb to these pri' ations. Our ration has been again slightly reduced; those
detailed for sledging, however, will receive two ounces extra of food each morning before leaving the iiut.
In order that our minds nay be lifted from this mire of morbidness and prevented from sinking into a state
of torpor an hour or so is devoted each ev'.nlug to reading aloud. Gardiner reads the ISible; Lieutenant
Greely the Army Regulations; and Rice is ])erusing one of Hardy's novels, tiititled "Two in a Tower."
With the exception of Gardiner's Bible, '.hese books, together with several others, were found in the wreck
cache.

Tuesday, October 30, 1883. — The temperature has again fallen, the thermometer registering — 8.0
[ — 22.2° C.J. The indefatigable hunters. Long. Jens, and Eskimo Christiansen, went back to Rice Straits
this morning, taking provisions tor three days. Thirteen of us went to Cajie Sabine for a load of provisions;
we returned to the house at 3 p. m. Rice having volunteered to lead a party to Cape Isabella, to secure the
144 pounds of canned meat cached there by Sir George Nares in 1875, has been accepted for the duty by

/-^

THK LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

463

Lieutenant Creely, and a sletlge is being prepared by Klison for that purpose. Rice will be accompanied
on this hazardous journey by three men, who have not yet been designated. Bender made a platform of
stones in the middle of the passage, on wiiich the i ooking-lamps will be i)laced when in use. He also dis-
linguished himself this morning by killing a fox with his fist. The little animal was found with its head in
a small tin can, and its capture was easily eft'ected.

An estimate of the [jrovisions now on hand places the approximate limit of their consumption at March
lo. This is computed on the basis of an issue of about 15 ounces to each man per diem. Subjected as we
necessarily are to hard work, cold, and dampness, how long, we ask ourselves, can we exist on this meager
allowance of food?

U'fi/)ii'si/iiy, Oitohi-f 31, 1883. — Thank (iod ! the last of our supplies are now safely housed. The one
remaining load was brought into camp this evening. The whale-boat which we had abandoned on Septem-
ber 12 was found to have drifted ilown on tiie large floe on which it had been left, and to have lodged
between Brevoort Island and the main land (Cape Sabine). It has been broken up, and will be used for
fuel during the winter. To think of using it now (even were it in good condition) as a means of crossing
Smith Sound would bo worse than madness.

The rations, except bread and raw meat, will be issued weekly in bulk. Cloudberries were issued to
the messes this evening. The Swedish expeditions use these berries largely as an anti-scorbutic, and Nor-
denskiijld highly reconmiends them for use in arctic exploration. Dr. Pavy narrowly escaped freezing his
feet this evening. When crossing the ice-foot, on our return fr'"" Sabine, he fell into the water, and during
the long walk to the hut he sutfered intensely. Cloudy weather, light westerly wind, and temperature +2,0
I — 16.7° C.]. Lieutenant (Iree'y detailed Schneider for cook.

Tlmruiay, Nin'cmlxr i, 1883. — Weather fair; minimum temperature last night, —4.0 [ — 2o.o°C.|.
Lieutenant Kislingbury is (juite ill, presumably from the effects of overwork while assisting with the hst load
yesterday, i'avy thinks the strain may result in rupture; in any event it will be serious. He fainted twice
this evening while the doctor was making an examination of the injured parts. Poor fellow I he is entirely
hel|)less, and is dependent on his comiianions for assistance. Elison prepared the small four-man sledge
for the contemplated trip of Rice to Cajie Isabella. The rest of us did nothing but mope in our bags.
Frederick was detailed with Linn and Elison to accompany Rice. I issued them provisions for eight days ;
at the end of this time we hope to have them again in our midst. Schneider was fortunate enough to shoot
a white fox this morning which he espied prowling about our camp in quest of a portion of our scanty
supply of provisions. Bender has made a small sheet-iron stove on which our cooking will be done in the
future. The barrels and boxes found in the Proteus caches, together with our boats, oars, &:c., will be used
for fuel. Lieutenant Greely decided to reduce our rations, to take effect to-day, in accordance with the
following list :

Ounces.

Meat 4. 00

Bread 6.50

Beef extract .26

Lard .26

Butter .49

Soup .64

Rice .09

Peas . 22

Corn . 19

Ounces.

Carrots .. o. 10

Tomatoes .32

Rasins .16

Pickles .42

Milk . 19

Extract cotTee .43

Extract chocolate . 19

Potatoes 40

This makes but little more than 14 ounces of food daily per man, on which we will be compelled to
sustain life (if possible) after having endured the severest of trials.

Friday, Nrn'onber 2, 1883. — Cloudy weather; minimum temperature for last night, —9.2 1 — 22.9° ^-l-
Rice, Linn, Elison, and Frederick started at 8 a. m. for Cape Isabella, taking with them the large four-man
sleeping-bag and provisions for eight days. They will have no protection for their bag at night except what
will be furnished them by a wall-tent fly. I shot a blue fox this morning in the vicinity of our old camp ;
weight, 3J/2 pounds. Kalston shot a white one near our present habitation this evening which weighs 4^
pounds. Lieutenant Kislingbury is slowly improving in health. The cooks prepared our evening meal over
the small stoves made by Bender yesterday. The manner in which this work was performed speaks volumes
for the new stoves, and the result is highly gratifying to every one; and the amount of fuel consumed was

4G4

TllK LADY FUANKLIN BAY EXI'KDITION.

i i

»'> iff

^>i k»i.,. :l

small, and the time cmployeil in l)rint;in),' the stews to the boiling-point was only forty-eight minutes. If
strict economy in the use of our fuel is iiratticed the barrels should last us for over eighty days.

SiUiiniiiy, Ninrmber i, 1S83. — The weather has been clear and bright all day ; minimum temperature,
—9. J \ — i2.(f C.|. At 8 a. m. I,ong returned from Rice Straits for a fresh su|)|)ly of provisions with which
to continue his hunting operations. He reports having killed one seal of about seventy-five pounds weight.
Notwithstaniling the low temperature and his weak condition, the noble fellow is indefatigable in his efforts
to procure game with which to prolong the lives of his companions. Jewell is feeling (juite ill from the
ejects of the severe labor which he has performed during the last few weeks. His constitution is evidently
a weak one. Israel made an observation for latiluile, but deferred its computation. Our meager diet h.is
jiroduced anythmg but a salutary etiTect on the minds and feelings of our party.

Siiiii/iiy, Xovcmlur 4, 1883. — A huge hard-bread pudding for the morning meal made us all feel as
happy as possible for a few hours. The sense of repletion to the stomach after eating is something of the
dim jiast, and this terrible gnawing hunger which is ever present is fast driving us mad. I wonder if we
will retain control over our minds (certainly not over our tongues) throughout the trying period which seems
inevitable to us now. Long started back to Rice Straits at 8 a. m., taking with him provisions for five davs
more. At the end of that time we arc to go down with the large sledge and brin^ back his tent, sleeping-
bags, and game. Long saw the tracks of two bears, which had evidently been traveling together, when he
was walking yesterday between Rice Straits and Camp Clay. They came from the direction of Clarence
Head. As our hut is but imperfectly ventilated, the dense smoke produced while breakfast was being pre-
pared gave us all a severe headache. At the same time nearly every one complained of an oppressive
sense of dizziness from its efiects.

This being the Sabbath, the olil axiom, '"the better the day, the better the deed," was exemplified, as
fiir as lay in our power, by laying a foundation for tiie new commissary store-house. It abuts on the south
end of our house ; its size will be about 8 by 10 feet [2.4'" by 3.0'"), and the one enfance will be from the
outside alley or jiassage way. The old store-house is not at all secure, some one having again broken in.
I'oxes are ((uite numerous about our cncamimient; we partook of a stew this morning made from them,
.ind pronounced it excellent. Temperature, — 25.7 [—33.1° C.]. Weather clear and calm.

Monday, Ninrmhn- i^, 1883. — Clear and calm weather; temperature, —20.0 [ — 28.9° C.|. The tem-
perature inside the hut ranges from ■\-2\ to +36 [ —4.4° C. to +2'2°C.]. It reaches the latter point, however,
only when the meals are being prepared. This enables us to feel very comfortable (?) at all times. Our
room is illuminated during tlie day by a small blubber lam[), which emits a flame about half the size of an
ordinary tallow candle and about the same power or intensity. Lieutenant Kislingbury is recovering slowly
from the strain which he sustained a few days ago. All the members of the party are growing weak from the
effects of this slow starvation. It is perceptible, not alone in their wan, pinched faces, but also in their heavy
and uncertain gait. The construction of the commissary store-house was completed to-day, and all the
provisions, except the blubber and a few barrels of bread, were moved in. Bender modified the chimney or
ventilator so that the smoke could escape more freely.

Tuesday , Norf inhcr G, 1S83. — Clear weather, fresh northwest winds, and tem[)erature — 21.0 [ — 29.4° C.].
The snow-wall about the house is not jjrogressing as rapidly as I would wish, but as all have grown so very
weak, severe labor cannot in reason be expected from the poor fellows. I made an examination of the
mixed tea and sugar founil in the English cache at Payor Harbor, and discovered that it had greatly dete-
riorated from the effects of dampness and exposure. Our conversation now naturally turns on such subjects
as cooking; the good and indifferent restaurants that we have known, and the good dishes which we have
enjoyed. No person seems to remember that he ever ate anything which was not good. No foxes have
been seen for several days. One suggests, as a solution to their sudden disappearance, that they were
frightened by our dirty faces and disreputable looking clothing. An excellent stew of seal meat this evening
caused us to forget our i)hysical ills for a short time.

Wednesday, JS'in'cmbcr 1, 1883. — Christiansen returned from Rice Strait this morning. He was sent
in by Long, who recjuests that the sledge be sent down to-morrow to remove his eciuipments to Camp
Clay. His withdrawal from the hunting grounds before the date previously agreed upon is owing to
the prevailing high winds, which keep the game out of sight.

I issued tlic provisions for the coming week. I had estimated the weight of the blubber at two hundred
pounds, but by ai lual weight I find that it exceeds my estimate by about ninety pounds. Minimum temper-
ature last night, —20.3 [—29.1° C.].

THK LADY I'ltANKLIN BAY KXPKIHTIOX.

465

Thiirsifiiy, jYmYw/'i-rP,, 1 8S3. — T.ight winds from the south and a temperature of — 3 1 .5 [—35.3" ^'-l did not
tend to jiroduco agreeable iniiiressions on the men. Notwithstanding the severity of the weather, liowever,
a party under the leadersiiip of Lieutenant Lockwood, ( nmprisnig Dr. I'avy, Jewell, ISalor, Ellis, Whisler,
Christiansen, anil myself, started at 7 a. m. with the large sledge for Riie Strait. At 10.30 we had readied
the tent and were iomev.hat disappointed on learning that the seal rejiortcd some days ago by Long was
the only one killetl. Returning with thoir effects we reached Camp Clay at 3,15 p. m. In atldiliou to the
excessively hard labor of hauling a loailed sledge through the deep "snow, the men suffered greatly front
the effects of a burning thirst, and on reaching cam[) were well-nigh exhausted. An issue of hot rum was
made immediately on our return, and at no time within our recollei tion was it fwr more welcome than on
this occasion.

Schneider was detected in the store-house under very suspicious circumstances, and was openly charged
with having stolen provisions, He, of course, vehemently [irotested that he was innocent, but the fact of
his being intoxicated from rum surrei)titiously obtained, combined with other circumstances, rendered his
guilt only too obvious. (Ireat indignation is felt by the men, and their feelings have been expressed in
language somewhat emphatic. He has been relieved from the duties of cook and lieiuler detailed in his
place.

Friday, y<'rem/<er <), 1883. — Matters are growing worse and worse. It is said that honor exists among
thieves; if so, in our party, where every man is expected to perform his part with just and honorable motives,
no dishonest action should be noted. But it appears that hunger drives from the mind all the nobler attri-
butes that it may have jjossessed, and places it on the plane in < ommon v.ith the lower anituals. We do
not know whom to trust in this dire extremity, conse(iue;:tly none in the future will be trusted. .V can of
condensed milk was found by Lieutenant Lockwood in the old commissary store-house this morning. It
had been concealed by the thief under a large block of snow, and an attempt had been made to open it
with a blunt-pointed knife. The contents of the can, however, are intact. The marks made by the knife
in the attempt to open the can correspond perfectly with the saw-like edge of Schneider's knife. Whether
or not he used this knife for that particular purpose is a matter of conjecture among us. Susi)i(ion, however,
naturally points to him in consequence of his perfidy of yesterday. Clear weather; temperature, —50.0°
[-34.4° C.].

Sattiniay, Noi'ember lo, 1883. — Those who were lying av ake at midnight were startled by the sound
of approaching footsteps through the crisp snow. The next moment Rice entered the room, but from the
effects of exhaustion he was unable to speak for some time. At last, and in tremulous tones, the ominous
words: " Elison is dying!" brought all to an upright position in their bags. After receiving a small drink
of rum he stated how the party had reached Cape Isabella on the evening of the third day, ai)[)arently in
good condition, and hopeful of the successful issue of their undertaking. But on starting back Llison had
become exhausted, and in consequence both hands and feet were frozen, despite all the efforts of his lom-
panions. His limbs were placed in contact with the warm bodies of Rice and the otlicrs, but without avail.
He was carried in their arms, and when this became intolerable he was dragged on the sledge until Eskimo
Point was neared. Then Rice decided that the abandonment of die meat was necessary to insure the
saving of Elison's life. This was accordingly done, and one of the Springfield rifles was left standing upright
beside the cache to mark the spot. From Cape Isabella to this point they had make double trips. They
struggled slowly along until the little bay just west of Rosse Bay, and separated from it by a low narrow
neck of land, was reached. Here they halted, and after consulting with his comrades. Rice, the noble
fellow, had started without resting, to walk to Camp Clay. Nothing has passed his lips since yestertiay,
except a small piece of frozen meat, which lie took in his hands on leaving his companions.

At 4.30 a. m. Christiansen and myself started out with a few tempting articles for the ilying man and
his two suffering companions. The large sledge, with seven or eight men under the commantl of Lieutenant
Lockwood, was to leave camp at 6 o'clock. On leaving the hut Rice told ine that Elison would in all
probability have passed away before succor could reach him, and that 1 would most likely meet Linn and
Frederick on their way home with the sledge.

The darkness was intense when we started, and Christiansen and myself floundered about among the
hummocks and through the deep snow for some time without advancing very far. We stumbled frequently,
and often fell on the rubble, receiving serious bruises. The monotony of the tramp was sometimes broken
by my dusky companion, who uttered half suppresseil Englis'.i oatiis whenever he fell over a projecting
point of ice. About noon we reached the bay and found our three brave comrades huildled together in the
Jl. Mia. 393 30

466

TIIK LADY FUANKMN I5AY KXrEDITION.

r.i

liiilii'

one slcc'pir.^baj; in a scniifrozen state. P'lison was still alive and sonu-what better than when Rire bad
left him. l.inn and Frederick were very weak, and both hail frozen their fares anil extremities ((uite severely.
After much ditViculty I succeeded in making a fire in the rocks above them, and cooked a meat stew, which
they thoroughly relished. Later I made hot and tielii ious drinks, whi( h gave new life to their attenuated
frames, and in a measure restored the sluggish circulation. F.lison is a |)itiable sight, with his face distorted
and frozen, and his limbs ice like and useless. He repeatedly imiilorcd me to kill him that the others might
be saved. 1 tried to cheer him with the assuranc e that we would all escape from these inhospitable shores
and return to our homes together, but, shaking his head sadly he would rejjeat in a low, pleailing voice,
•' Please kill me, won't you ! "

I hail contemplated placing F.lison on the sledge, and with the assistance of l.inn and P'redcrick to
haul him back towards Camp Clay until the relief party under I.ockwood was met with, but on conununicat-
ing to them my intentions, they assured me that tliey could do tK)thing, in fact they did not believe that
they could walk without assistance. There was now but one course left for me to pursue, so making the
poor fellows as comlbrtable as possible I turned back with my faithful ally, Christiansen, to face the howl-
ing winds then blowing furiously. When near Rice Straits our eyes were gladdened by the appearance of
Lockwood and his party, of Pavy, Jewell, Salor, F.llis, Schneider, and Jens, who had been traveling hard
since 6 o'clock this morning. Christiansen and I took our places in the drag ropes and returned with them
to the south side of Rosse Hay, where we encamped at 6. lo p. m. The gale has been terrific in its velocity,
and considering their weak state it is surprising how the men have endured the severe strain while traveling
under its influence to-day. Just before leaving the trio in their frozen sleeping-bag near the head of F.lison
Bay, I observed a fox walk deliberately to the bag in which they ^^ere lying, and attempt to enter. I aimed
a blow at him with the axe which was close at hand, but missed ; before 1 could strike again he hail escaped
to the rocks above.

Sunday, Nmrmlxr ii, 1883. — We obtained very little sleep last night, owing to the low temperature
and the continuance of the gale. The cook was called at 4.30 a. m., and at 6 o'clock I started forward
alone to prepare breakfast for Klison, Linn, and Frederick, while the party was to break camp and follow
immediately with the sledge. The poor fellows had not slejjt during my absence, and when I reached them
they were shivering with the cold. It is almost surprising that the^ survived the cold of last night. They
were in a half-starved, balffro/.en condition, and the merciless storm had been incessantly beating down on
their unprotected covering of buffalo-skin. I stopped for a moment to contemplate the scene. Nothing
could be more utterly desolate, dreary, and forsaken than the spot on which those brave fellows were lying.
Without shelter save such as was aftbrded by a small tent-fly, their bag was lying on a narrow terrace only
a few feet above the ice-foot and the tides, where it was fully exposed to the fury of the winds. Above them
and extending to the summit of the slope was a chaotic wilderness of rocks, through which the winds had
carried great quantities of loose snow and heaped it about this place of refuge.

The alcohol lamp, with which I attempted to prepare their breakfast, refused to burn, and I next tried
the few pieces of boat which they had brought with them from Eskimo Point. With this i was rather more
successful, but my success was at the expense of my poor fingers, which were burned and frosted alternately.
At last the men were made comparatively happy by a plate of warm meat stew, which occupied their time
until the arrival of the sledge.

The sleeping-bag in which the three poor fellows were lying was frozen in such a manner that it had to
be cut from top to bottom with a knife before the occupants could be liberated. F.lison with much diffi-
culty was placed in a small dog-skin sleeping-bag and warmly wrapped in a large piece of canvas. Linn
and Frederick walked painfully about for a few minutes to stretch their stilifentd and frosted limbs, then
started to walk the seventeen miles intervening between them and the warmth and shelter of Camp Clay.
We turned homeward with the sledge at 9.30 a. m. At Rosse I5ay we stopped for a few moments to pick
up the tent and sleeping-ba^js which Lockwood had left in camp. All day long we tramped slowly but
steadily against a high wind. Occasionally a halt was made to change the position of F.lison, or to give
him a swallow of brandy, which was about the only thing he desired. At 5 p. m. we halted at the northern
entrance to Rice Strait to prepare some refreshment. The wind had been blowing in our faces while passing
up the strait, and in consequence every one was so thoroughly chilled and benumbed that we could scarcely
erect the tent. When it was finally secured L'.lison was taken inside, and, under the influence of hopeful
words and good-natured chaflT, regained something of his former cheeifulness of manner.

At 8.10 p. m. we again started with our sledge. On entering Buchanan Strait the wind subsided, and

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TIIK I-ADV KUANKMN ItAV KXI'IODITIOX.

467

the moon, having risci' about this time, shcil its soft li^ht over the l)arren ice fields, making the night one of
the most attractive that I had ever known. The iron houn<I <oast. the chaotic masses of |)uherixeti iie at
its border, and tiie weird si ene of desohition spreading hke a pal! about us on every side, heightened and
intensified the forbidding aspect of these inhospitable regions, whii h had never before seemeil so utterly
<levoid of redeeming i|ualities. A feeling of awe seemed to have taken possession of the [larty while it moved
forward with its half-i:onscious burden, slowly and in silenc e.

Momiiiy, XinvM/'i-r 12, i88,v— After plodding wearily along for hours, we at last reache<l Camp Clay at
2.10 a.m. Willing hands came to our rescue, and tenderly the sledge was lifted over the ice-foot and placed on
firm footing above. (Ireat was the rejoicing over our safe and speeily return. Never before had our
wretched hut assumed the bright and cheerful aspect which it now wore, and never before had rough-bearded
men evinced more sym[iathy in feeling an<! tenderness in action towards a crippled comrade than did our
party. Of the ( oiulition of the party on arriving, I can sjieak only of myself. I was probably on of the
strongest; ami at no time in my life were my i)hy.si( a! powers ever called u|)on to sustain a trial similar to
that of last evening. I'.ven my will-jjower was wavering, and in another hour I would have jirobably sui-
cumbed to exhaustion and the increasing cold.

Dr. Tavy considers the amputation of I'.lison's limbs as absolutely necessary, and fears that the process
will result fatally to him. .Assisted by the ever-faithful liiederbick and a corps of tender-hearted volunteers,
he worked for hours to alleviate the sufferings of the injured man. I. inn and Frederick arrived at 4 p.m.
yesterday, both badly broken down physically. Lieutenant Kislingbury has recovered sutticiently from his
accident to enable him to walk about in the alley of our hut. Temperature, — 34.5 [ — ^ft.cf" C.j.

Tucsilay, Novinibcr 13, 1883. — 'I'he sun is many degrees below the southern horizon, and i.s daily nioving
farther away; even at midilay the light which we receive from him is very feeble. The weather has been
clear, and the moon has shone brilliantly all day ; minimum temiierature, — 33.8 [—36.6° C.J. No work has
been ilone. The men of the relief party are resting quietly, and are entleavoriiig to recover from the effects
of their terrible exposure and hardships. Elison is in a very critical condition. Rice, 1 inn, and Frederick,
although lame and sore from frost-bites and their severe labors generally, w ill most likely recover under a
generous treatment. The others are doing well. Biederbick last evening shot a white fox, which weighed
5/^ pounds.

Wednesday, N<n'cmlict 14, 1883. — Clouily and disagreeable weather, together with a raw an<l biting
wind, have kept us confined closely to the house all d'y; teniperatun , —30.0 [ — 34.4° C.J. Nothing has
been accomplished to-day tending towards our comfort for the win'-en Naturally enough, consi<lering the
circumstances, all the energy has disappeared from our little band of sufferers. Our bread ration was reduced
one-half ounce to-day — from 6 oz. to 5^ oz. I issued the provisions in bulk for the ensuing week, liied-
erbick sits up with F)lison during the night and I'avy watches over him carefully iluring the day. He is
feeling somewhat better, but still there are no hopes entertained for his recovery.

Thursday, November 15, 1883. — Clear weather; fresh westerly wind, and a temperature of —38.2
[ — 39.0° C] caused us to seek the seclusion of the hut during the greater part of the day. We worked, how-
ever, for a short time this morning on the commissary store-house, plastering it with moiste ned snow, so as to
render the structure stable and unyielding to the gales which will probably visit us this winter. At 11 a. m.
the temperature rose to —33.5 [ — 36.4° C.J. Fllison appears to be improving slowly. There is evidence
this morning that some person entered the store-house last night without authority for so doing.

Friday, Novembei 16, 1883. — The wind howled dismally about our habitation yesterday and all of last
night. At times it blew with great velocity and threatened our destruction by well-nigh unroofing our house.
The barometer has fallen half an inch [i2.7o"""J in the last twelve hours, and a corresponding change in
the temperature has also taken place. The minimum temperature last night was — 22.0 [—30.0° C.j, but at
noon to-day it had risen to —12.0 [— 24.4*^ C.j. The spring tides overflowed the space west of the house
bortlering on the ice-foot, and the water rose several inches on the outside of the hut, but was prevented
from flooding us inside by the thickness of the snow-bank surrounding the buikling. We inclosed the vesti-
bule and put on a canvas roof, securing the whole with moistened snow or "mush," as it is called by some,
which, freezing quickly, renders the walls as firm as if hewn from solid ice.

Saturday, Ninriiibfr 17, 1883. — Cloudy weather, light westerly winds, and temperature —12.0
[ — 24.4° C.j; minimum, —28.0 [ — 33.3° C.J. I placed a wooden door at the entrance to the commissary
Store-house, and as an adilitional safeguard supplied it with a lock and key which we found in the Proteus
V^reck cache. This we hope will be an efliectual bar to all midnight marauders. The patients are improving

IfS

til

■I ' '

,1 I!)

468

THE liADY FRANKLIN BAY BXrEniflON.

slowly notwithstanding tlie small a"U)unt of food on which we are now living. We are doing better on
this low diet than my most sanguine hopes had ever anticipated. Our eyes and lungs are very much affected
by the thick smoke, which is unavoidable in cooking with damp wood and with a stove possessing no pipe
for conveying it away. Hiederbick is suftering with a swollen fmger, the nature of wliich is similar to the
felon on Gardiner's finger.

Lieutenant Greely entertained us this fliorning with a description of the physical conditions of North
America, in which he is well versed. In his remarks he confined himself principally to the United States.
This will be followed by lectures on astronomy by Israel, and on natural history, physiology, and the history
of France by Pavy. The evening's entertainment will be contributed to by all the other members of the
party, who will relate their early experiences, converse on various subjects, and read aloud from the few
books in our possession.

Siiiiday, NinH-mbcr i8, 1883. — Weather cloudy; light westerly '..inds; minimum temperature, —14.0
1 — 25.6° C.J. Rice and myself placed a flag (an old coat) on oui; of the sjiare oars and planted it on the
extreme outer point of this peninsula, where it may readily be seen by any relief party approaciiing from
Littleton Island. We pre still using water from the small lake southeast of the hut. The benefit accruing
to us through its use cannot be calculated, as it enables us to economize greatly in the use of fuel.

Momiay, Noi'drbcr 19, 1883. — Calm and cloudy weather; temi)erature, —35.2 [—37-3° C.]. I o[)ened
the remaining barrel of dog-biscuit to-dav and was agreeably surprised to find all e.xcept a few pieces in
good condition. An odor of nnistiness, howevr, pervades this entire barrel as well as all those found in the
English cache. It is in<leed hard to be compelled to subsist on food which an- well-bred dog would refuse.
If we could have even plenty of this kind we would not mind our situation so much, but the limited (luantity
on which we are now living is nothing more than an aggravation.

Long and Jens each shot a ibx to-day. Instead of being issued in lieu of our regular meat they will
be added to our Sunday evening meal. The intestines of these animals, and in fact everything of them
excej)t the skin, is used in oui stews and eaten by the famishing party without the slightest feeling of repug-
nance. The invalids appear to be tloing well; Klison especially appears in a cheerful frame of mind, consid-
ering his sufferings. Some person who did not fear the just vengeance of an outraged party was heard last
night fumbling about the shelf on whicli one of the breail boxes was kept. A match was at once struck,
but at the first intimation of a light the would-be thief slunk into his bag without being detected. Night
before last a large piece of chocolate was stolen from *h? mess stores of Long — the cook in Lieutenant
("■reely's nii;ss.

Tuesday, AWe in htr 20, 1883. — Calm and cloudy weather; minimum temperature, —16.0 [ — 26.7° C.J.
No work has been done on tlie house to-day owing to the feeling of lassitude so ])revalent in our party of
late. The sick are doing as well as can be exjjected, considering the gloom and dampness of the hut and
the impoverished state of their systems from insufficient nutrition. Insiile the hut the temperature ranges
from +14 to +?5 [—10.0° C. to —3.9° C.J; sometimes it rises above +32 [o-o" tl.J when the fire is lighted,
but falls imnu'diately when it is extinguisheil.

We experience the greatest discomfort from the cold and find it necessary at times to exert ourselves
by knocking the feet together in a most frantic manner to jirevent them from freezing. Our bags are frozen
firmly to the ground, and the hair inside is filled with frost. On lying down at night the warmth of our
bodies thaw.5 tiiis frost, and the moisture thus produced is absorbed by our garments, which are usually sat-
urated before morning. It is feared that this exposure will sow the seeds of disease which can never be
eradicated from our systems.

Jfh/ms/tiy, Nincmhr 21, 1883. — Cloudy and disagreeable weather; tempeuuure, —23.5 [ — 30,8° C.J.
A fresh westerly wind has been moaning dismally through the rocks above the hut, causing us to shiver
with discomfort and dread.

The daily routine of our lives in this wretched hut is about as follows : 'i"he cooks (Frederick and
Long) are callet' at 6 a. ni., and breakfast is usually ready at 7 o'clock, and is always eaten by all except
the cooks without leaving their sleeping-bags. When this is over, and while the cooks are clearing away
the refuse of the meal, the conversation becomes general. As might be expected, the favorite subjects for
discussion are cookery, and the good dishes that we remember to have partaken of in the past. Between
9 and 11 o'clock Lieutenant (Ireely discourses on tlie geography of the United States, both physical and
descriptive. I then go out and issue provisions to the cooks for the following day, and one of the others
goes to the lake to cut a hole throuijh the ice to provide the cooks with water for the next two meals. It

THE LADV FRANKLIN KAY EXPEDITION.

469

is also the duty of this person to empty the, contents of the large urinal in the alley. At 2.30 ]). ni. the
cooks light their fire for the preparation of dinner, and at about 4 o'clock the meal is served. We then
sit up and converse on all sorts of subjec-ts until 6 o'clock, when the readings begin. We retire usually
betvcen 8 and 9 o'clock. I issued provisions to-day for the coming week, exce])t the bread, which I issue
daily to avoid extravagance. '1 he list of those who are invalids is recorded as follows : Lieutenant Kisling-
bury, rupture ; is now convalescent. Henry, toe frost-bitten, very bad. Klison, both upper and lower
extremities frozen ; condition considered critical in the extreme, (lardiner, felon on forefinger; is improving
slowly. Linn, rheumatism, and system broken down from recent exposure ; mind also atVected. liiederbick,
felon on forefinger; condition doubtful. Salor, lame back, but is able to go out occasionally. Connell,
very weak from the reduced diet, 'v'ross, foot frost-bitten ; is improving. Uender complains fre((uently of
soreness in his chest and of lame joinfs. A bounteous repast was served this morning, with whic-h every one
was well pleased. It consisted of !,eal-skin and fox intestines, together with moldy dog-biscuit. Nothing
approaching food is ever wasted with us, and it is a notorious fact that the cooks are not over careful in
cleansing the fox intestines. A fox was seen to-day, but was too wary to ajjiiroach within reach of our
I'ady guns.

Tliiiisihy, AWcinl'f)- 22, 1883. — Long and Christiansen each shot a blue fox to-day. I walked along
the ice-foot bordering the peninsula in search of these little animals, but saw nothing. The sky has been
beautifully clear and cloudless, the weather calm, and the temperature —28.0 [—33 3° C.]. Standing on
the highest point of the peninsula to-tlay I could discern the darl: outlines of the distant (Ireenland coast.
To my intense satisfaction no water-clouds were anywhere visible in that direc'iion, and it is to be hoped
that this lo,; temperature, acting in conjunction with the slack tides, will close the sound early and provide a
bridge for our relief and deliverance from this horrible bondage. .Another stew serveil this evening was
thickened with the rotten dog-biscuit. I believe that the hungriest cur on the streets would refuse this
wretched apology for food.

Frii/tiy, \inr>ii/i<'r 22i, 1883. — Calm and cloudy weather; minimum tem])erature, —41.2 (— 4o.7°C.|.
Long and Christiansen each again shot a fox. Nothing worthy of note has been done except that another
hole has been cut through the reservoir, and water to the depth of nine inches [229"""] was found. This
will be sufh(;ient to su|)ply us for a long time with all the water needed.

Siitiiiiiiiy, /Vtnriii/>rr 24, 1883. — Calm and cloudy weather; minimum tcmi)erature, —26.0 [ — 32.2° C.|.
Ail manner of schemes for our future welfare are being discussed. Ralston is trying to ])ersuade some of
his companions that they should join him in establishing a colony at some place in Kansas. Rice and
myself are also discussing some schemes which as yet are only visionary, but which we trust will assume
some tangible form as soon as a favor.able opportunity occurs for their i onsideration. Krederic-k, or "Shorty,"
as he is more familiarly known, gave us this evening n i)rief but very interesting sketch of his life.

SiiH(/ay,Ntnrnil>(r 25, 1883. — Calm and cloudy weather; temperature, —25.0 [—31.7° C.|. No water-
cloutls in the direction of the Greenland coast being visible to-day, our confidence in the freezing over of the
sound at an early date has been restored. Should this occur, we will be enabled to etVeci our escape as soon
as the sun returns. Saturday evenings are set apart for the narration of personal adventures and experiences,
and are the most enjoyable and interesting evenings that we have. (!hristiansen shot a large blue fox which
weighed 41^ pounds.

Afomfiiy, Noreiii/uT 2C>, 1883. — Cle.ar; lij^ht westerly winds; temperature, — 36.5 [— 38. 1° C. |. Albert
Head, Cape Camperdown, and die remainder of Hat he Island, were distinctly outlined against the iiorliicni
sky at noon. Jens thinks that water-spaces exist near the middle of Kane Sea, but he is of the opinion that
Smith Sound is frozen over between Cape Sabine anil Cairn I'oint. I also went to the hill to confirm his
impressions, and, from my observations while there, ix)nsider the indications favorable for our release, if the
colli continues and no gales appear to break the ice.

Tiicsdity, AWniii'ir 27, 1883. — Clear weather; minimum temperature, —43.5 [—41.9° ('.]. .\ westerly
wind, which blew with a velocity of twenty miles per hour [8.9"' jier second], sprang up sudtleniy this even-
ing. I sent Christiansen to iiic little elevation above Camp Clay for the ])urpose of observing the <()nditiun
of the sound. He reported on iiis return that the ice, in his opinion, was firmly frozen across the channel.

IViiiiii-siiay, NiTcm/'i-r 28, 1883. — Cear weather, with light westerly winds; temperature, —34.0
|— 3f).7° C.|. 1 issued provisions to-day lor the ensuing week. We are all looking anxiously forward to the
royal feast which occurs to-morrow — Thanksgiving day; Rice, 3 pounds; raisins, 2! j pounds; lard, yf, pound;
milk, 1 can; extract of coffee, i can; and extract of chocolate, 1^^ cans, will be issued extra to-morrow to

470

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

celebrate the occasion. This Thanksgiving will indeed be a great change from others held in memory.
Where will we be next year at this time? I find that a bag of bread which I had estimated at 70 pounds
has exceeded my estimate by 46 pounds. A seal has also weighed 8 pounds more than my estimate had
placed on him. I hope that all our weights will come out aliead as these have done. Another fox was
seen near the hut this morning, but he escaped to the rocks before a gun could be 'irought. Jens has
been working on a trap for the capture of foxes.

Lieutenant Lock wood has made a proposition to the paity to this effect : Each person will make out a
bill of fare which he (the lieutenant) will record in shorthand. These bills will be consolidated, and a copy
furnished to each man. If we are fortunate enough to escape with our lives from this place, each member
of the expedition will be expected to adhere, as closely as possible, to his bill of fare on each succeeding
birthday, as circumstances may allow.

Thursday^ Ntn<emhcr 29, 1883. — Clouilv weather; light westerly winds; temperature, — 14.0 [ — 25.6° C.].
The day has been passed pleasently enougi; in fact I think I may say with ixrfect sincerity that it has
been one of the most enjoyable of my life. A double ration of coffee, which was served for breakfast, will
ever be held in grateful remembrance. At 2.30 p. m. a stew of fox meat and bacon was served ; following
this came rice pudding, chocolate, and seven ounces of bread. Twenty-five gills of rum and twelve lemons
were used by Frederick in making a punch. 'I'his was pronounced by all as being the best of its kind.
After the punch had been disposed of, songs and stories filled the interval until midnight, when we retired
feeling better and more hopeful of the future than we had felt for weeks. For the first ti!ne since we were
tlrifting in Kane Sea, we can feel a sense of rei)letion after eating.

On examination of the bags of bread found in the l^oUiis cache, I discover that one had been wet, and
is row ;overed with a blue mold. It will be used in small quantities to imjirove (?) the stews.

Friifay, A'iri'cmfvr 2,0, 1883. — The snow has been falling rajiiilly all day; temperature, — 5.0 [ — 20.6° ('.].
A disagreeable drip of moisture from the roof of the hut is the result of this hifi;h temperature. It falls like
rain on our sleeping-bags, and the resulting dampness inside renders our condition wretched in the extreme.
The paity is feeling somewhat dull to-day. This lethargic condition is jjrobably due to the over-feeding
of yesterday. If it should be proved that this is true, we may rest a.ssured that the complaint will not visit
us often.

Suiit/uy, Deciinhcr i, 1883. — Light westerly winds and clearing weather; temperature, —7.2 [ — 21.8° C.J.
During the evening the wind veered to the east and blew with great velocity from that direction. The
house was shaken to its foundation, and the flying snow was driven underneath the eilge of the boat into
the interior of the hut. The sound is now entirely open as far north as Cape Albert, and the roar of the
grinding pack is heard by us while Iving in our sleeping-bags. The high hopes which we had entertained
of escai)ing from this place by the frozen sound have, for the present, been dashed to the ground. The
drip from the roof still continues, and our sleeping-bags are now thoroughly drenched, 'i'he suffering
incident to this condition of clothing and bags in low temperatures is not within my jKiwer to describe; it can
be imagined only. The doctor thinks that the hands and feet of Elison will have to undergo amputation.

Sinii/ay, Dfii-iiiln-r 2, 1883. — The higli wind mentioned yesterday having increased to a gale during the
night, physical sufferings of the severest nature were thereby caused, ^\'e momentarily expected our only
l)rotection — the boat — to Ije carried bodily away by the storm, but it sustained its reputation for stability
and remained where it had been placed some weeks ago. The snow drifted in under its edges and covered
the six men, including myself, in my section of the house to a deptli of over a .''^ot [.3'"]. It was a most
miserable night, and one which I shall long remember from the sufferings which xere experienced. The
roof of the vestibule was blown away, an-' tlie space between the walls was filled with snow, and our only
door to the outside blockaded. The coni.nissary store-house was also filled with the drift. Several hours
had elapsed before onler was entirely restored and our house again in a habitable condition. We then
began to reali:?e how extremely weak this starvation diet had made us. The pieces of wood which we had
taken from the whale-boat were blown aw.iy,and the minimum thermometer — the only one in our possession —
was also lost. The hard-tack ])U(!ding (a mixture of salt-water and bread) is considered a most delicious
and satisf;ictory meal, and is one that is looked forward to during the entire week with anxiety and pleasant
expectation.

Afonday, Dfcember 2,, 1883. — A violent wind arose soon after midnight, but by breakfast time it had
entirely subsideti. During its progress the vestibule and store-house were again filled with snow, and the
greater part of the day was spent by "reliefs" in clearing this away and in repairing the dilapidated roo£

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXl'KDITIOX.

471

A portion of the wood which was so widely scattered yesterday was collected and secured. A prolonged
search by Ralston revealed no trace of the lost thermometer.

Tuesday, Dnrmber 4, 1883. — Brisk westerly winds have been howling over our house since yesterday ;
this evening they were accompanied by snow and heavy drifting. Hy the new thermometer, just exposed,
the temperature is —8.0 [ — 22.2° (".J.

If the dense, dark clouds hanging in the sky to the eastward are a correct index, a vast expanse of water
must exist in Smith Sound. Our chances of crossing to Littleton Island on the ice are narrowing slowly,
but we still retain slight hopes of being able to do so before April. The invalids api)ear to be mending
slowly. Our conversation, as usual, turns on the subject of food; it seems as if we can never tire of this ; it
is the one all-absorbing topic in which we are interested, and very naturally too, I think, when of all our
miseries hunger predominates. All our energy appears to have departed, but we ask ourselves, " Is one
supposed to possess enerj^y when the means of sustaining life has been withdrawn from him ? " I think not.
Notwithstanding the lack of energy for work, some have developed remarkable powers as grumblers, but
making all due allowance for our condition, little fault should be found with the free exjjression of these
minds, made morbid by long and continued suffering; besides, were these feelings to remain pent up, an
injurious effect might be wrouglit on the general health. A highly-flavored stew of fox intestines and seal-
skin was enjoyed and favorably commented on by all this evening.

Wednesday, December 5, 1883. — A gale broke suddenly on us at 3 a. m., but subsided at about noon,
the sky clearing beautifully. In the evening, however, the gale rose again with great fury and threatened
the destruction of our quarters. The tloor was snowed up, the vestibule blown down, and the commissary
house damaged to a considerable extent. Just before noon we were p.ot able to see more than thirty yards
[27'"] away on account of the blinding drift. Temperature at i p. m., +7 [— 13.9° C.|.

I issued nothing to-day except the necessary bread.

Thursday^ December d, 1883. — We are now having a series of gales which are doing great damage to
the ice, and prevents the sound from freezing over. The wind again rose this morning from the west, and
continued to blow without interruption all day. These storms have caused a disintegration of the tloe even
to the ice-foot in the little cove west of the hut. From the hill 1 observed numerous pools and lanes in all
directions, and dark water-clouds hover over Smith Sound to the southward and extend northward to Cape
Camperdown. The turbulent pack, grinding and crumbling as if conteniling for the supremacy of the waters,
produces a mournful rumbling sound, which strikes terror to the heart of the listener. Temperature, — lo.o
[ — 23.3° C.|. I discovered that two barrels and several large sections of the boat had been blown away in
the melee of the elements last night. After a long search they were found in various places in the rocks
above camp and alcjng the ice-foot, and were restored to their places. Long was fortunate enough to shoot
a three-pound fox just before breakfast. I issued the week's supply of provisions.

Fiiday, December "], 1883. — Brisk westerly winds; temperature, —21 [ — .'9.4° C.]. The moon made
her appearance this afternoon; the light shining through the clear atmosphere produced a very pretty efl'ect
on the desolate country adjacent to Camp Clay. The water-hole in the lake, having been neglected for
several days, was found entirely closed this morning, and great difficulty was experienced in getting it through
again. Rice and myself cut a large hole, finally reaching the water after great jxertion. Kvery one is weak,
and some are disheartened at the gloomy prospects before us. For several da):: \ I'.ave endeavored to in-
duce them to repair the damage done the vestibule by the late storm, but in vain; suttlcient energy tloes not
at present exist among us to do this work.

Sattuday, December 8, 1883. — Clear weather, brisk northerly winds, and a temperature of —24.0
( — 31.1° C.J. The pack appears to be in a great commotion again to day; there has been scarcely a
moment since morning but that it could be heard crashing against the rocky point of our peninsula, and
being tumbled about by the current outside. The party worked in the vestibule this morning, i learing and
shoveling away the snow and del)ris which had collected during the ])ast few days. A fox was observed near
the hut this morning, but lie scampered away just in time to avoid an introduction to a charge of shot.
Later than this, however (10 p. m.), I was fortunate enough to kill two blue foxes at the same time. This
is considered ratiier fortunate in view of the darkness and my indifferent marksmanshii).

Arguments are legion, but unfortunately there is often a tendency to acrimony in these discussions.
One suggests, as a solution to the presence of so much feeling in sinall matters, that we are being too well
fed. Our conversation today has been chiefly on the subject of food. Lieutenant Lockwood especially is
an earnest debater on subjects of this nature.

472

TDE LADY FUANKLIX BAY EXTEDITION.

Sunday, Decemhir g, 1883. — Clear wcatlier, brisk westerly wind, and temperature — 30° 1—34.4° C.].
Long shot two foxes this morning. These, together with the two killed by me yesterday, weigh 13^^
pounds. At the present rate of issue this game furnishes the meat ration for two days. A fine stew of hard
bread and sea-water was relished an' 1 enjoyed by all of us this morning. A stew of seal meat was served
for dinner, and thin and watery as it ivas, it wouhl have made us supremely hap))y had there been twice the
tjuantity. These hot drinks and warm stews appear to be the one source of life to us. Taken cold, their
effect in serving to resist the damjmess and frost would, to a certain extent, be lost.

Monday, Dfcember 10, 1883.— A westerly gale has been blowing all day, and our condition, both mental
and physical, has been rendered miserable in consequence. A fox was observed in the vicinity of the house,
but, unfortunately, he escaped before a gun could be brought from the interior of the house. The party
confined themselves closely to their slee]Mng-bags to-day, and discussed the latest incongruous combiiation
of hash. 'lemperature, —27.0 [—32.8° C.J.

Tuesday, December 11, 1883. — Temperature, —20 [ — 28.9° C], The wind subsided during the morning,
the sky cleared, and delightful weather followed, liache Island loomed up in the distance, sharply outlined
against the northern .sky. No water-clouds visible to the north or east. The vestibule was repaired to-day.
I worked nearly four hours on this structure, and just before its comjjletion was ovt /come with dizziness ; in
falling I was revived by striking against the sledge. Jens assisted me \x^^ ..le house, anc'. after a brief
])eriod of rest I feel all right again. The wind has risen this evening, and it is now drifting very hard out-
side. Several members of the party are entirely out of tobacco, and the deprivation is making a bad im-
jiression on their minds; some are even willing to exchange their food for it. I am grateful now, if never
before, that 1 care nothing for this weed in any form.

Wednesday, December 12, 1883. — 'I'emjierature, —25 [—31.7° C.]. C^lcar weather; light westerly winds.
1 issued the weekly rations to the cooks this morning. 'J'his is a most irksome task; my fingers have been
frost-bitten .so frequently in connection with these issues, that they are now very sore and tender. Standing
for so long a time in the low temperatures of the store-house and handling the brass cartridges which are
used as weighs ■, my hands and feet become benumbed and my body thoroughly chilled.

Accusations were made against Frederick, who is acting in the capacity of cook, by Dr. Pavy, Henry,
Hender, and one or two others, of unjustly dividing the food. Frederick has worked faithfully all winter,
and everybody except the few who prefer the charges believe him innocent. To avoid discord, however.
Lieutenant Greely has directed that other members of the mess make the divisions, but Frederick will still
do the cooking.

Thursday, December \2„ 1883. — Tem])erature, — 25 [ — 31.7° C.]. These disheartening winds still con-
tinue to blow with undiminished velocity. 'J'here was nothing done outside except such work as belongs to
the daily routine. Geographical sketches of the United States, by Lieutenant (Ireely, are given every even
ing and are highly entertaining.

Friday, December 14, 1883. — Weather clear and calm; temperature, —17.0 f— 27.2°C.]. The evening
is beautifully clear, and the angular cliffs of Hache Lsland stand out in bold relief against the sky. The
snow which was accumulating in the commissary store-liouse for several days past has been removed to-day.
Christiansen shot a 4^2 pound fox this evening. \'ery little energy is apparent in the party now, and very
little is expected under these circumstances. The condition of three members of the party would seem to
indicate the pre.sence of scorbutic symptoms.

Satu> day, December 15, 1883. — The beauty of the moon's halo to-day was doubly enhanced by the
hazy atmosphere through which we viewed it. Temi)erature, —17.0 [ — 27.2° C.]. A high westerly wind
sprang up suddenly during the evening, .ind light snow began falling about the same time. No water-clouds
were observed over the sound by the numerous visitors to the ridge. The water-hole in the lake was again
found entirely frozen up, but through the energy of Kllis it was recut, and an abundant supply of water
again furnished us. I visited the old camj) in search of foxes, but saw nothing. The flag i)lanted near the
spot by Rice and myself was found to have been blown down by the recent gales, and the staff broken. A
stew consisting of fox intestines, hearts, livers, lungs, iVc, together with a small quantity of seal-skin, furnished
us with a most satisfactory and '•(.'freshing breakfast.

Sunday, December 16,1883. Temperature, —21.0 |— 29.4<'C.]. High winds, which are causing a
blinding drift, make us feel posi /ely wretched, confined as we are to the limited space which our frozen
sleeping-bags afford. Dr. I'avy tells me that he can probably save one of Elison's feet; the other, and all
liis fingers, he will lose. 'J'he amputation, he thinks, will not be necessary until we reach Littleton Island in

THE LADY Fh'ANKLIN 15AY EXPEDITION'.

473

March. A hard-bread pudding, rich witli rice, raisins, and seal blubber, caused us to feci coniparaiively
happy. Ahhough 1 have never cared anytliing for smoking, the two cigarettes ])resented nie by Lieu-
tenant Kishngbury just after breakfast were nevertheless greatly enjoyed and ajipreciated. Regularly every
Sund.iy there is an issue to each man of ^ gill of rum and ^ of a lemon.

Monday, December 17,1 883. — t'loudy weather ; light ])recii)itation of frost this evening, and temperature
— 13 o [— 25.o°C.|. 1 cleared the snow from the vestibule this morning ; no one excejjt Kice was willing
to assist, lie is always as ready to do as much for others as for liimself. Long and J-'rederick are the
cooks for the two messes, and as such are not expected to perform any outside work. Unless some of the
men exhibit more ambition, we will never be able to save oui-selves from disaster in the contemjilated trip
across Smith Sound. I am very weak myself, but when the others comjilain so bitterly of the same condi-
tion, I cannot refrain from doing work which should be performed by others. This afternno.i, while working
outside, my strength left me and complete prostration followed. I was once so strong and self-reliant that
it seems almost incredible that my strength should have been diminished until it will scarcely etjual that of
a child. Tears spring unbidden to the eyes when I see the reflection of my emaciated features in our mirror,
and when I feel my shrunken and w cll-nigh useless muscles.

l^uesday, December 18, 1883. — The weather is clear and calm; temperature, — 17.0 [ — 27.2° C.]. This
is the mc i beautiful evening that I remember ever having seen. The stars gleam and si intillate brilliantly,
like diamonds in their setting of deep blue, impressing the beholder with a feeling of wonderment and awe.

One phase of our starvation diet is that during the discussions which arise freipiently in connection
with different articles of food, nearly every one rejjroaches himself for not having eaten more heartily when
he had the o|)portunity, and there is no person in the party who appears to recollect having dislikeil any
dish of which he has ever partaken, lender's chest complaints apiiear to have revived again ; the trouble
tends rather to irritate than to quiet his tongue.

Weihiesiiay, IMrmber 19, 1883. — High westerly winds have caused a blinding drift all day, which ]iie-
vented the party from going outside except for a few moments at a time ; temperature, —21.0 [ — 29.4"( .|.
I issued the rations this morning for the ensuing week. \\'hcn volunteers are called for to jjerform certain
odd jobs necessary to the health and comfort of the entire party, no one responds except Rice, Salor, and
occasionally Schneider. Cross saws and prepares the wood for the use of the cooks. AMien high winds
prevail the draft in the hut is increased, and the smoke from the stoves when the meals are being )>repared
passes out through the ventilators with facility and occasions us but little difticulty ; but on »alm days it
flows out sluggishly, and in consequence we are often nearly suffocated.

Elison's feet are black, shrunken, and lifeless; his ankles esi)ccially are a horrible sigbt ; the flesh has
sloughed away, leaving the bones entirely devoid of covering. He sufters much, but is very patient, and
bears his troubles with manly and heroic fortitude.

Thursday, December 2Q, 1883. — Clear and calm weather; temperature, —25.3 [— 3i.8°C.]. This has
been the most pleasant day that we have known for weeks. The atmosphere is so clear that I5ache Island
is distinctly outlined. The order of exercises for every day in the week except Saturd.ay and Sunday is
about as follows: The cooks (Long and Frederick) rise at 6 a. m. to prepare breakfast. Cross then jire-
pares the wood with which to cook the next two meals, and Lieutenant Oreely begins his instructi". e an<l
highly entertaining descriptions of the different portions of the United States which he has visited.. At noon
I make the daily issues of rations. One man in turn each day opens the water-hole at the lake and su|)-
plies the cooks with what they require. At 2.30 p. m. dinner is started, and from 7.30 to 9 o'clock the Hii)le
and other books are read. We usually retire at the latter hour. During the daytime the conversation
generally reverts to the subject of food, and many coi)ious orders are given from well-filled bills of fare, and
many an imaginary dinner eaten. We also speak of our future prospects and our present dej)loral)le con-
dition. Christiansen shot a white fox, which weighed 4^ pounds.

Another spring tide h.-.s just passed, and this time the ice in Smith Sound was probably not broken
up under its influence. There at le.ast is no indication of open water towards the Creenland coast. This
fact is rather chee; ing to us, an<l will serve to infuse new life and vigor in the half-torpid minds of the party.
There is considerable speculation on what may be in store for us at Littleton Island. 1 fm<l dial my
estimates of bread and iiieat were too low ; conseipiently the provisions will be extemld several days beyond
the limit assigned. 1 wond.'r if my scales have anything to do with this (liscre|)an(y ? In the issues this
week, instead of the usual se.d-skin for stew, the flippers and intestines of Lontr's last seal were used. These

■ ■ ii ''5 l\

1 i t

474

TnE LADY I'HANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

will be auymeiit-'il by tlic intestines of foxes killed from time to time, together with a small (luantity of the
moldy hard bread. IJcndcr apjjears to be improving.

Friday, Dtiimbcr 21, 1883. — Weather clear and calm ; temperature, —29.0 [ — 33.9" C.]. There is now
no indication of open water in Smith Sound. The natives are of the ojjinion that the ice is in a fiivorable
condition for traveling. The noble fellows mspirc us with hope for the future by assurances of plenty of
game when the sun returns.

Two events occur to-day, one of which is interesting to me alone. One is the winter solstice, and the
other the 27th anniversary of my birthday. At my home to-day they are most likely discussing our probable
fate, and Perhaps they mourn me as lost to them forever. Mow I wish I could tell them that I am in no
immediate lianger, so that tlieir minds might be relieved from the burden wliich thoughts of this kind must
bring. Lieutenant Kislingbury was kiial enough to give me a cigarette to pufi" while I drank my birthday
rum. This is a new kind of dissipation and one I regret cannot be intlulged in more frequently.

I shot a fox at 4 p. m., which weighed three pounds and twelve ounces. There are evidently two
distinct species of the arctic fox, as the white foxes weigh about two pounds more than the blue foxes. Some,
however, contenil that there is but one species, owing to the change which is gradually taking place in the
blue foxes, /'. r., the turning of blue to a dirty white or gray color. A strict account is kept of the intestines
of these animals and they are alternately issued to each mess. The heart and li\er, however, are the
perquisites of the hunter. As an incentive for the natives to be vigilant and watchful for game, an ounce
of tobacco is given them whenever they succeed in shooting a fox.

Saturday, Di-ifiiibcr 22, 1883. — The sky has been wondrously clear and bright, and not a breath of
air has been stirring to ruffle the serenity of our out-of-door promenade ; temperature, —29.0 [ — 33.9° C.].
We remained (juietly in our bags during the greater i)oriion of the d.ay, metlitating on the probable fate of
our forlorn party. Even the dire calamity which now confronts us is not sufficient to repress the exuberant
flow of good nature so conspicuous in our party. A stew of moldy hard bre.ad and one can of ox-tail soup
made a fine, comparatively rich, dish for our mess of twelve this evening. At Fort Conger ten cans of this
soup were required as an introduction to the dinner; now two cans serve to constitute the dinner for the
same number of men. Jewell is suffering with a sore fmger (probably a felon), which is similar to those by
whicli Gardiner and Hiederbick are afflicted.

Sunday, Dntmbcr 23, 1883. — Temjierature, —24.5 [—31.4° C.]. Clear and calm during the morning,
but as evening approached the sky clouded and a blustering wind arose, which caused much drifting and
much discomfort to the inmates of out wretched hovel. Several foxes were seen, but all proved too wary
for our weak and methodical hunters.

We are having considerable trouble with the water-hole at the lake. With his usual disregard for the
uture, Whisler broke the ice-chisel and left it, hopeless of recovery, fastened deep in the narrow hole which
he had made. Among those who turned out to rei>air the damage, Rice and Salor were conspicuous for
their energy. Ellis also came in for a fair share of glory in this respect, as he fell down in a fainting fit on
reaching the hut, after having worked faithfully for a long time. Lieutenant Kislingbury and myself were
the last to go out, and not until we had worked for three hours did we succeed in striking water. We were
greatly weakened and exhausted in consequence of this exertion Ice had to be melted this evening for tea,
the hole not having been cut until after 9 o'clock.

Pavy tells me that the prospects for the recovery of Elison are favorable. It is thought, however, that
he will lose all his fingers and both his feet. Many complain that their feet are sore and swollen to such a
degree that the/ are nearly deprived of their use. The frost-bitten feet of Henry and Cross are especially
bad, and they do not appear to improve very much. Ade(iuate warmth and nourishment will now do more
to infuse new life in the emaciated frames of our band of sufferers than anything else. The poor cooks
retired at an early hour this evening, both ill from inhaling the smoke caused by burning damp wood while
cooking. While the meals are being prepared our room is usually filled with a dense smoke, which nearly
suffocates us. All except the cooks can protect themselves somewhat by crawling down into their sleeping-
bags and covering the entrance closely. It is necessary for the cooks to stand over the fire, and, with their
fares close to the stove, blow like a pair of bellows in order to hasten the burning.

I exchanged half of my bread-pudding for half of that of another, to be given me on some future
morning. We fre(iuently resort to this method in order to secure a full meal. There is one tlrawback, how-
ever, to this jilan; it is necessary to go hungry to-day in order that we may feast to-morrow. Whisler has
been particularly disagreeable to day, and not at all choice in the language used towards his companion,^.

'^.t

THK LADY KHAN KLIN I'.AV EXl'EDITION.

475

None of his frequent invitations — issued jironiiscuously — to go out ;ind fight him liave heeii '.cieiJtcd lUit,
under the trying circumstances, I <k) not think lie siuuild be creihted witii too much l'!..me for wliat lie has
said and done, for we are more or less "cranky," and 1 only wonder that we are not all insane. We are
all inclined to be rather sullen, and at times even surly.

I wonder if we will survive the horrors of this ice-prison?

Monday, December 2\, 1883. — Weather clear ; light westerly winds; temperature, —22.5 [— 30.3° C'.|.
Foxes have again been seen, but, as before, escaped the guns of our vigilant hunters.

]5y direction of Lieutenant Greely I made extra issues for Christmas, as follows: Rice, 3 pounds ; raisins,
2^-2 pounds; blubber, 2 pounds; lard, 1 pound; bread-dust, 4 pounds; sugar, y, pound; milk, 1 '-^ cans;
extract of coffee, i can; extract of <:hocolate, xy^ cans; cloudberries, 1 can; rum, 12 gills, and 6 lemons.

Dr. Pavy is suffering with ne.vous chills, and we all feel greatly alarmed, for, without his professional
advice and skill, our situation would be most deplorable.

The new water-hole in the lake has proved to be a com])lete success, and the chisel broken by Whisler
has been recovered and repaired by Schneider. Salor is 32 years of age to-day.

Tuesday, December 2'^, 1883. — A merry (?) Christmas. Clear and calm weather; temperature, —35.5
[— 37.S°C.|. Lieutenant Kislingbury celebrates his thirty-sixth birthday. Foxes were seen about camp
to-day, but none were shot.

Our bill of fare has been substantially the same that it was on Thanksgiving, except an increase of
one ounce of bread to each man. The best of good feeling has prevailed and three cheers were given for
Lieutenant (Ireely, Klison, Rice, and the cooks.

The records from Ikevoort Island, which were found by Rice in October, were read again to the satis-
faction of all; the prophetic letter of our friend Clay was also again read aloud and many moistened eyes
were observe<l at its close. I have all along placed such implicit confidence in the ability and sound
judgment of Lieutenant Cauington, that I believe he is at Littleton Island and will cross to us during the
full moon in January. There are very few who share my rather sanguine exjicctations in il:'s -connection.
The ruin punch brewed by Long and Frederick was the i)est that f ha\e ever tasted (in C .ji Jhi)), and
our only regret is that the (juantity was not greater. Strange as it may ai)pear. every one felt satisfied
at the conclusion of dinner.

I replaced the broken flag-staff at our old camp. While crossing the ridge to visit this jilace, I had a
very good view of the sound, but could see no water-clouds in the direction t)f the Oreenland coast. This
fact strengthens our hoi)e of being able to reach the coast of (Ireenland during the month of ALircli, or tiiat
assistance may come to us from that side.

The evening, until after 10 o'clock, was devoted to songs, national and sacred, in which the two Kskinio
joined with their wild but sweet native melodies, and the Danish national hymns. The spirits of the party
are wonderfully exuberant and joyous in view of our prospect, and should they continue in this way there
will be no immediate danger of losing our minds. What a contrast is ours to the [larty of walrus huniers
who were cast away for the winter in Spitzbergen; and although having abundance of food, every man
perished in consequence of depression of spirits and from having eaten salt food instead of fresh, when there
was an abundance of the latter at hand.

Wednesday, December 26, 1883. — Owing to our ilissipation of yesterday no one awoke until 7 o'clock
this morning. Frederick and Long are not feeling at all well on account of the injury to their eyes, resulting
from the srnoke yesterday. In making the weekly issue to-day fox meat was used f(.r two days in lieu of
seal. If our supply of fuel and fresh water becomes exhausted, we can eat the seal )neat in its raw state.
We all enjoyeii a stew this morning made of seal-tail, or flipper, fox intestiiies, and rotten hard bread.
Near the hut this evening I shot a fox , which weighed three liounds and two ounces.

Thursday, December 2"], 1833. — Clear and calm weather; temperature, —39.5 [--39.7° C.|. A cold,
raw day.

Rice having volunteered for the hazardous duty of visiting Littleton Island in quest of information
regarding the relief expedition, we had a long discussion over the matter last evening. These long conver-
sations have a very beneficial effect on the mind, in engaging and turning it from the gloomy reflections
with which it is crowded. During this discussion many hopeful suggestions were '.nade, and at its close we
all felt better and more cheerful than we had previously. It is indeed singular how calmly and with what
stoicism we speak of the inevital)le result if relief does not come to us soon. When we consider tiie uncer-
tainty of the future — the ominous clouds of despair hanging over us like the sword of Damocles — it is

1 '\Vi

476

THE LADV FUANKMN WAV KXI>Kl)ITION.

inileed wonilerfi'.l to remark tlie bright, joyous spirits of the men. It certainly has no jiarallel or precedent
in the annals of arctic history.

It is t'le opinion of Frederick that p;iison brought on himself this dire disaster, of the loss of his limli.;,
througii his indiscretion in eating snow while on the journey to Cape Isabella. Linn also came nearly be.ij.,
a victim to the same injudicious act. 'l"he exhausting and clebilitating efilect of eating snow while travelii..;
in low temperatures is so well known to both I, inn and Klison.that I am surprised th.-". men of their int'-'lM'^enc
should have done just the thing wliich of all others should have been avoided.

Friihiy, Dficmbcr 28, 1883. — Jlear weather; light westerly winds; and temperature —35-0 [ — 37-2° (M.
To eke out our .scanty supply of fuel, we are now using a small (juanlity of tarred rope -U each meal, m
connection with the barrel-staves. It is tpiitc successful as fuel, but the d-nse smoke v liich i* cre:'lLS is
almost unbearable. The fox-n.vat . *ews are not at all satisfactory, owing to the great innnber of bones.
Their value is fully ; .. ; t^r cf.-.x ;^ ■, tl, n the stews of seal m it. Fearing that our fuel will not last as long
as our pro '-,10...!, I,iij-,t ji.inf t'Veel) !iai directed me to issue ten jjounds of blubber to the cooks for their
use in experimentin'::. Tn !hi, i -ne Lieutenant Lockwood objected, anil a very disageeable discussion
followed. I am ni. . iss uiv.; flK- fruzc bread which we found in the Proteus wreck cache.

Satiinfijy, J><ct»ii>fr 2(), [.'^83.— * >veather; temperature, — 31.5 [— 35.3°C.]. The wind changed to
easterly last evening, and blew with a velocity bordering or. that of a gale. 'J'his morning it had entirely
subsided, and pleasant weather prevailed all day. The greater portion of the day was spent in making
bargains for the exchange of difterent articles of (bod. There is now a regular system of marketing carried
on each day by those whose wits have been sharpened by trailing or swai)ping in earlier days. Cross and
Hender have been excused by the doctor from the performance of any duty. The frost-bitten foot of the
former is much worse, proud tiesh liaving appeared, i dug out of the snow the last piece of the whale-boat
Narji<hal, and it will be burned at once.

Sunday, Dfcember 30, 1883. — Cloudy and windy weather; in the evening the wind blew stronglv from
tiie east, and the temperature stood at —21.2 [—29.6° C.]. How secure and thankful wt should leel in
this strong house, miserable and cold as it is, where the howling storm outside caimot reach us.

In the marketing yesterday, I secured the hard-bread pudding of another which, together with my own
allowance, made <iuite a satisfactory meal, and placed me on better terms with myself than I had been for
some months. I have been lying in my bag nearly all day in a ilreamy, listless state, thinking of home and
friends, and wondering if this 'iving death, with all its attendant horrors, will ever end.

This day completes half the time that we expect to remain here; calculating from November i, the
day of the final reduction in rations. If, at the end of the next sixty days, the party is in as good general
health as it is to day, -.ve may expect to squeeze through until relief comes; but if we should be greatly
reduced, and no assistance should arrive from Littleton Island, all or the mo.st of us are doomed.

We are very fortunate in having this splendid lake of fresh water so convenient to the house; and, in
the absence of salt, we are also fortunate in being in close proximity to the sea, where its water may be
secured. We often substitute gunpowder for salt on our food ; five pounds of this article having been found
among the other stores in the caches. The natives carry all the water for the cooks, and are excused from
all other duties. Rum and lemon were issued as is customary on Sundays.

Monday, December 31, 1883. — The wind blew n ith great violence all night, and continued without
interruption to blow all day. Temperature, —20.5 [ — 29.2° C.]. The water-hole gave out again this
mornintJ, but another was at once begun, and by 4.30 p. m. was completed. Only three inches [76'""') of
water now remain in the lake. " Marketing" is still carried on quite extensively, and is productive of good
results. Three ounces of alcohol have been used daily to heat the water used in bathing Elison's wounds;
the same work is now performed by the blubber-lamp without any additional expenditure of fuel.

Will the hour ever arrive when we will be no longer restricted in the amount of food that we may wish
to consume? This craving — this constant gnawing of hunger is horrible. It brings with it visions of the
most temuting dishes, w hich to us are most tantalizing, as we have no means of gratifying the desires which
thoughts of this kind produce.

Tuesday, jfanuaiy 1, 1884. — Considering the unfortunate circumstances attending our situation, we
enter the new year under particularly favorable conditions. The health of the party is generally good ; the
spirits of the men are excellent, and the provisions are exceeding the estimates placed on them in every
instance. The sound appears to be firmly frozen over, as no water-clouds anywhere appear, and every one
feels hopeful of deliverance before our provisions are expended.

THE LADY FKANKMN HAY KXPKDITION.

477

Connell says that lie saw ilic (Ircenlnnd coast at noim. I visited the u\d caiDp to tlie east in scan h of
foxes, T fired at one, liiit unfortunately did not secure him. 'The short wall; left nie ;;reatly exhausted.

I made an e.xtra issue of a few articles for the least to-day whii

we have l)een lookuig anxiously lor-
vard to for .so lonj^ a time. The most of rs were awake at midnig o greet the New Vear. How are our
friends spending the day ? Do they helieve that we are yet livinjr ? ■ jse are questions which we frei|uently
ask ourselves. A clear, calm, and beautiful day; temperature, — ?.< [ — 35.6" ('. J.

l!'tt//irsi/<tv, yannary 2, 1884. — t'lear weather, lij;lu westerly \, ils; temperature, - ^S.o f — 3.V3" <".|.
Jens reports having heard the grinding cf the pack in lUichanan Strait this morning. I sincerely hope that
tlie disruption is not general. Another fox was seen" to-day ; tiiis time it was a white one. Klison's right
foot dropped off this morning without his knowleilgc. 'I'hc fact will be carefully concealed from him. One
of his fingers fell off a few days ago, ami several others will follow in a short time. Dr. I'avy thinks that
with warmth, comfort, and a generous diet he might jjossibly recover, but that the chances are against him.
Ralston is (juite ill. liiederbick having over-eaten yesterday now suffers with cramp in his stomach, lie
is doubtless consoled in his pain with the retlection that yesterday's feast will most likely be the last oppor-
tunity this winter of making himself ill by over-feeding. 1 issued the week's sui)ply of i)rovisioiis this after-
noon. Hacon for one meal in lieu of English beef is the great event of the week. In comparison with two
w?eks ago there is a marked diffe"; • a ''\ the amount of light furnished by the reflection of the tlistant sun.

'riiiirsday, 'yamiaiy 3, 1884. —t^le." . eather, light westerly wintis, and temperature —31.0 | — 3S-o" ^'-l.
My fingers were (juite badly fro^ 'atte: ,'le making the issues this morning. I shot and wounded a blue
fox this morning, but the cunn; I'j • c.d .-sc ipeil to the rocks above cani[) where he secreted himself. I find
that a seal from which we • .v bt. .1 using during the past month, and which 1 had estimated at sixty
pounds weight, exceeds the citinic, i)y eleven j.ounds. When the moon rose above the extremity of Caj)e
Sabine this evening it produi ';d a very i)retty elfect on the icebergs in tiiat direction.

FrUay, yiiiiuaiy 4, \i. ■ -f: ady weather, brisk westerly wind.s, and temjierature, — 34.0 (—36.7° C.J.
I shot at a blue fox this evening, but missed my aim. P'our others were seen later during the evening, one
of which I killed.

On entering the commissary store-house this morning 1 found a hole in the canva-i roof, evidently cut
by some sharp instrument, and about one-fourth jjound of bacon missing from the j)iece directly underneath.
Investigating further with the aid of a lantern outside, I found where the marauder had endeavored to break
through the roof in another place, but failing in that had cut through the canvas witli a knife.

Saturday, yaiinaiy 5, 1884. — Cloudy weather, brisk westerly winds; temperature, — ^5.2 |— 31.8° (_!.|.
This morning 1 discovered that another hole had been cut through the canvas forming the roof to my com-
mi.ssary store-house, and that it had been so carefully covered with snow-blocks as to cscajje my notice
yesterday. I think the depredator is one of the two men whom I have been watching closely for some days.
I gave notice thi.s morning that I had set a spring gun in the store-house, and that any man who entered or
interfered with the house in any way did so at his peril. I found so much trouble in setting tiie gun that I
finally abandoned the attemi)t. Of this fact, however, the party, except Lieutenant Creely, remained in
ignorance.

lilison's remaining fo(Jt ilroi)ped off tiiis morning. It detached itself from the stum|) when the limb
was lifted to be ilres.sed. 'i'he ;)ractice of exchanging food or " marketing," as it is called, is gradually iieing
discoiy.inued. This evening many debts contracted in that way were settled, and several remarked that they
would barter no more. I refilled the ruin can from the large cask, and found it the most wretched piece
of work that I had ever engaged in.

Sunday, yaiiuaty 6, 1884. — Clear weather, light westerly wind, and temper.ature —24.0 | — 31.1° C.J,

The cook in my mess (Frederick) reported that some person had been tampering with the bacon which
I had issued him on Thursday. On examination the m^irks of a knife were found on one side and a'lout
four ounces of the piece were missing. A fox-meat stew and a hard-bread |)U(.kIing made us cnmt%?.ratively
happy, both at breakfiist and dinner time. Through driving sharp bargains iluring the market days, Jewell
became the possessor of two dishes of pudding, or as \Vhisler expresses it, "a double-barrel stew," and in
disposing of both he made himself sick. I do not think it within the range of jiossibility to force ourselves
to eat these incongruous dishes were we not on the verge of starvation. That our taste is blunted is evinced
by the relish and keen enjoyment with which the most disgusting-looking dish of hash is devoured. Jens is
of the opinion that there is considcral)!e open water in Smith Sound.

■■%■■•

478

Till-: liADV 1-UANKLIN HAV liXPEDITION.

t ''

I i

Monihiv, y,i>ii/iirv 7, 1884. — Weather clear, light wintis from the west, anil temperature — ji.o

I made the discovery this morning that one of the barrels of I-'nglish bread had been broken into and
about five pounds of its contents extracted. The mark of an ax wlicre the staves were crushed in sliows
what instrument was used. A person wlio performed a certain piece of work in the vicinity of these barrels
a few days ago had this particular ax in his possession, so in my own mind there is no difficulty in locating
the thief, but more eviilence is necessary before an open accusation should be made. Re[)eated calls from
all portions of the room were made for the guilty party to come forward and acknowledge openly the
atrocity which he had comnntted, and as an inducement for him to do so, all the others would contribute
from their scanty store and feed him, that he might never again be tempted. We can hear the ice moving
in Buchanan Strait, but (."hristiansen says that the open space is prol)ably not extensive. The temperature
inside the house ranges from +24.0 to +i].o f— 4.4' C. to' —2.8' C".].

'DuSihyy yaituary 8, 1884. — Clear weather, light winds from the west, and temperature —28.0

In view of the irksome duties which I have to perform, Lieutenant Greely kindly offered to increase my
ration of bread one ounce ; but though weak and badly in need of it I declined on the grounds of injustice to
my comrades, preferring to take even chances with them in the struggle for life. A fine stew of seal meat
was served for dinner, which drove away all thoughts of care and trouble for a few hours.

W'idiicsilay, yaiiuar 9, 1884. — Clear and calm weather; temperature, —29.0 [—33.9" C.]. Rice
returned from a visit to the hill and reported the existence of a misty atmosphere over the sound, which
denotes the presence of oi)en water, although we su[)posed it to be entirely frozen over. Christiansen and I
later verified this rejiort, and saw evidence of the mischief done the floe by the late storm. The vajmr
was rising in dense clouds from the many fissures in the pack, and the startling noises caused by the moving
ice came distinctly to our ears. This is indeed a bitter disappointment, inasmuch as t!iis disruption may
prevent us from reaching Littleton Island as we haveantici])ated. Jens complains of illness. Dr. Pavy says
the noble fellow is suffering from mental anxiety rather than physical pain.

It is just five months to-day since we abandoned Fort Conger to begin the retreat, which through the
inexperience or incajjacity of others has resulted disastrously to us. If relief is to come to us this is a good
season for traveling, the moon being full. I was nearly paralyzed by the low tennieratures while making the
issues this morning. Our stock of tobacco has been nearly all consumed and birch-bark, willow and tea
leaves have been substituted. Christiansen drives us nearly crazy by smoking old rags and other jiromis-
cuous articles not noted for their delicacy of odor. Lieutenant Kislingbury is not feeling at all well; Gar-
diner is also ill, and all the others very weak, but during the last fifteen days I do not think any marked
change in the general tone has taken |)lace. At this rate we will j)robably live for some time.

Thursday, yaiiiidry 10, 18S3. — The weather is calm and cloudy and the temperature — 28.5 [ — 33.6° C.J.
A lunar halo was observed to-day. It possessed no unusual features. Ellis complains of extreme illness.
His speech is affected to such an extent that he is barely able to make himself intelligible. The doctor
attributes this to the excessive use of tea leaves and other substances in lieu of tobacco. The smoking of
these articles has been prohibited by Lieutenant Greely in the cases of Ralston and Kllis. Cross and Schnei-
der, who have been lying down almost constant for several days, except when meals were served, have been
directe<l by Lieutenant Greely to sit up for at least two hours each day. This state of mental, as well as
physical, inactivity has already made a serious impression on their health. Rice explained fully to Jens that
he is to accomi)any him on the hazardcnis journey to Littleton Island in February. The faithful fellow feels
tleeply touched that he should have been selected for this important and perilous duty. He, however, is in
excellent spirits and will do his level best for the party.

Saline matter, for several days past, has been noticed in the lake water, although we have been trying
to delude ourselves into believing that it is not so. This morning, however, the presence of the .salt was so
marked that there could be no longer room for tloubt. It is supposed that the tide percolates through to
the lake.

Friday, yaniiaty 11, 1884. — Weather clear; light westerly winds have prevailed during the greater part
of the day; temperature, —21.0° [ — 29.4°]. A slight improvement is noted in the mental condition of those
who are sick. As a gener.al thing there is a marked absence of energy among the members of the ])arty.
With the exception of Lieutenant Kislingbury, Rice, and Salor, they are reluctant to perform labor of any
kind. The cooks, of course, are not included in this category. After all, a person who lacks ambition under

"i ' V

TFII'} liAlJV FlfANKMN IJAY KXTKIHTIOX.

479

these circunistani OS should not be criticised or judgeil loo harslily. I'lacc yourself in a similar situation and
rote the result.

The water in the lake was found very nuich lower this morninfi and on testing we were surprised to
dis(-()ver that it had received another solution of salt. The < ooks hejjan using the barrel staves for fuel this
morning. There are sixteen barrels in all, and we exi)eet them to last forty-eight days.

Sii/iirii(i\\ 'y<iniMiy 12, 1884. — Weather clear; light westerly winds prevail; temperature, —18.5
[ — 28.1° C.J. I.ockwood is very weak; he has saved the greater jjortion of his bread and meat for several
days to enjoy a feast when a suthciency will be accimnilated. He freiiuently talks to himself about food, and
for h(nirs he stares at the dim Rskinx) lamp, without taking notice of anything ])assing on about him. Some-
times he reijuests that the lamp be kept burning during the night ; and in many ways his condutt is almost
childish. Iliederbic.k, who sleeiis next to him, is of the o|)inion that his mind is deranged — it certaiidy
is greatly weakened.

'i'his is liie tiiirty-fourth amiiversary of Klison's birthday. It is also just ivm months since we snatched
the brave fellow from the grave's brink and brought him to this abode of misery. He has womlerl'ul vitality
antl clings to life with a pertinacity worthy of his nationality.

Orders have been issued by Lieutenant Greely [)rohibiting the use of tea leaves as a sui)stitule for tobacco.
The excessive use of these leaves has had undoubtedly a batl elTect u|)on the general health of the party,
and the order is received as wise and necessary. We were all indebted to Klison this evening for a cigarette,
which he desired us to smoke in commemoration of his birthilay. Lieutenant Greely directed me to increase
the bread ration to 6 ounces per man per diem. It has been 5jj ounces. 'I'he ciiange tiiough slight is
nevertheless a welcome one.

A large vessel filled with ice is daily suspended over the blubber lainj). In this way nnicli of the water
usetl for our tea and coffee is produced.

Siiiiiiiiy, 'ydiiiuiry 13, 1884. — Cloudy and disagreeable weather; snow-storm in the evening, with fresh
wind; temperature, —21.0 ( — 29.4° C.]. l.ockwood is rather petulant, but with the best of reasons. He
talks to himself in a cpiiet way about his favorite dishes. Kllis, Limi, Cross, Ralston, and Jewell are also
greatly weakened in mind and badly broken in physical strength. They seldom leave their bags mdess
coerceil. Rum and lemon, with half ounce of bread, in addition to the regular ration, has made this a marked
day with us. We tind by actual test that one barrel will scarcely suffice for three day's fuel. .\t the i)resent
rate, however, we have enough for nearly two months.

Mniiiiiiy, yaiitiaiy 14, 1884. — Weather cloudy, and the wind blew i;liar|ily all day ; temperature, —18.5"
[— 28. i°C.]. Dr. Pavy tells me that Cross, Jewell, Linn, and Ralstan show symptoms of scurvy. They
were made to get up out of their bags for a short time this morning and were given some light employment,
which worked a beneficial effect both upon their minds and bodies.

Lockwood is in a more cheerful frame of mind than he has been for days, and in other respects also
he appears much better. Klison remains in about the same condition ; he is a model of patience anil forti-
tude. Considerable ice is being melted daily over the blubber lani|) to supply us with warm drinks. In
this way we manage to save a great deal of our fuel. An issue of four ounces of raw bacon for dinner was
greeted by all with favorable comments. Though the (juantity of food is small we nevertheless have a large
variety, and the distributior.s ordered by Lieutenant Greely are generally satisfai:tory.

Tiiisday, yaiiiuiiy 15, 1884. — Clear weather, with light westerly winds; temperature, —27.5 |— 33.1° C.|.
The doctor's patients are apparently somewhat better to-tlay. The supply of lake water gave out this
morning. We cut a new hole through where the lake seemed the dee[)est, but found gravel instead of water.
• Another hole was at once commenced, but it will be pursued with but slight hopes of success. Rice began
his i)reparations for the journey across to Littleton Island by making stockings from dog skin cut from I'avy's
sleeping-bag. In consequence of the failure of the lake to supply more water, our ration of tea at meals
has been re luced to one-half pint per man. For the present, however, the stews will continue as they are.
Cross has resumed his former work of sjilitting the staves for fuel. Henry assists him by sawing them the
proper length for burning.

W'cdiu'sday, yaniiary 16, 1884. — Light snow, fresh westerly winds, and a temperature of — 21.3
j — 29.6°C.] kept us confined closely to the house during the day. There has been no particular change
in our affairs since yesterday. This morning I made the usu:i' weekly issues of provisions except bread,
which, for obvious reasons, is issued daily. Cross is growing weaker very fast; since yesterday morning he
has failed to a mar'red degree in both mental and physical vigor.

480

TIIK LADY PKANKr,I\ BAY K\'PF<:iHT[()X.

Whisler repoits having dctectci! tlie doctor in llic ad of purloining brtail (roni Klison's rations. The
doctor sleeps hc.sidc his helpless patieiU and retains the latter's provisions in his charge.

Thursday, 'yiiiiiiary 17, 1884. — C'alni and cloudy weather; temperature, — 36.0 | — ^^y.S" (.'. |. Cross is
failing rapidlv. He resuniecl his work this morning, but was soon com|ielled to abandon it from extreme
weakness. Later he was assigned t^^ .a single sleeping-bag and placed where the faithful Hiedcrbick could
attend to his wants. He appeared to be delirious and talked incoherently of his luotiier, of his birthday
(whi(h occurs next Sun»lay, when he will be forty years of age), and of the returning sun. Jens is of the
opinion that the sound is broken, and that a considerable water s[tace exists in the axis of the channel.
The ominous water-clouds alone will denote this state of things to the observer. Lieutenant Cireely has
named February 3 as the day on which Rice and Jens w ill brave the elements by beginning their hazardous
journey to Littleton Island in ipiest of assistance.

The reduction in the (juantily of drink issued at meals is not .so great a deprivation as we hail imagined
it would be. I issued the weeklj' allowance of seal meat. This is always a very disagreeable task owing
to the frozen and Hintdike state of these animals after having been exposed for so long a time in the cold
storehouse.

Friday, yiviiuiry 18, 1884. — The weather is clear and calm ; the thermometer indicated a temperature
"*^ ~39-° I — 39'4° ^'l' ''"' ^'^ ''!•-' mercury was fro/en and our spirit thermometer lost, we ha'.e no means
of a.scertaining just how cold it has been to-day. The returning light is ([uite well marked, particularly on
the tlistant points of the coast line.

Cross declined rapidly during the night, and at 1.45 p. ni. he breathed his last, having passed quietly
away without a struggle. Since dinner yesterday he had been unconscious, but had talked a great deal in
a rambling and incoherent sort of way. He will be buried tomorrow at noon on the low gravelly ridge
separating Camp Clay from the Proti-iis wreck cache, As wood necessary to construct a cotfin cannot be
spared, I suggested wrapping him in a large gunny sack which I have in the commissary store-house. He
died from dropsical effusion of the heart, and had slight symptoms of scurvy. Disguised under the cloak of
obscure words, the cause of his death might be passed over by a casual reader without conmient, but to us.
w ho have sulit'ered with him, ii is a|iparent that the primary < ause of his ilealh was itaiTiition, In a few well-
chosen words Lieutenant Greely s|)oke of the past life of the deceased, and called attention to the fact that
our duty should now be to the living and not to the dead, and that this should be no occasion for depres.sion
of spirits. Biederbick was unremitting and indefatigable in his attentions to Cross during the last hours of
his illness.

While on the hill this morning I saw dense clouds of vapor rising from the waters of Smith Sound.
This is indeed unfortunate for Rice's contemi)lated trip in that direction. We are progressing splendidly on
our reducetl allowance of tea and other warm drinks.

Stitiirday, yaniiary 19, 1884. — Clear and calm weather; mercury is again frozen.

The remains of Cross were prepared for burial by 'Jiederbick and myself, and wrapped in the heavy
sack referred to yesterday. Lieutenant (Ireely read the beautiful and impressive Kpiscopal service while we
were yet in our sleeping-bags, and at about noon the solemn procession moved slowly across the lake and
up the gentle incline to the frozen grave. The body was covered with the stars and stripes, and borne to its
last resting-place on the small sleilge which already has a history in connection with the Elison disaster of
last autumn. We ranged a circle of stones carefully about the grave of our lost companion, it being the only
attention that we could bestow on him now. One cannot cone eive of anything more unearthly — more
weird — than this ghostly procession of emaciated and half-starved n.en moving slowly and silently away
from their wretched ice-prison in the dim and uncertain light of an arctic night, having in their midst a dead
comrade, who was about to be laid away in the frozen ground forever. It was a scene that one can never
forget. It will forever remain vividly pictured in my memory as the most awe-inspiring of any of the many
thrilling scenes experienced in this "Land of Desolation."

The bread ration has been increased to ly'^, ounces.

Sunday, yaiiuary 20, 1884. — Calm and cloudy; the mercury is again frozen, and it is probable that the
temperature is about — 50.0 [ — 45.6° C.]. It is to be deplored that we have no spirit thermometer with
which to record the extremely low temperature prevailing just now.* A splendid hard-bread pudding for

♦NiiTK. — All s|>irit thurnioniflers had liccii cacliud except the minimum .spirit thermometer which was blown away and
lost during a violent gale. It was found the following spring by lirainard. — A. W. G.

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXI'KDITION.

4S1

breakfast, ami a bountiful stew of seal meat for dinner, made tliis a marked d;iy ainonj; the otlurs. It no
longer appears strange to us that the mind can expel all high and ennobling thoughts, and dwell con-
stantly on subjects which are connected in son e way with food. We think scarcely of anything except <>f
eating, and what we have eaten; and the Sunday bill of fare is gloated over as if it were a least, u)st>'ad of
a wretched mess prepare<l from the vilest of compojnds.

Lockwood is growing weaker and weaker. He said to me a few days ago; "Tirainard, I have lost my
^ip" — meaning that he had lost the l:tst hope of life, (iardiner is sutfering with cranips in his stonuich.
Dr. I'avy is also suftering with a frost-bitten foot. Henry's feet are badly swollen from the etVects of c<»ld
and inaction.

I'salms were read this morning by Lieutenant Oreely, and the usual issue of rum and lemon was made.
Had Cross lived until to-day he would have been forty years of age.

Moudity, yaiiuivy 21, i?84. — ('lear weather, light westerly wind; temperature, — ,u.o |— 36.7''('.|
While taking a( count of provisions to day, 1 discovered that twelve cans of milk « ere missing from the stores:.
Tiiey were probably stolen before the supjilies were transferred to the building where they are now kept.
The weekly ration of blubber has been increased to eleven ounces per man. The bread ration has been
iiK reased to 8| ounces per man per diem, or 57 ounces weekly, (iardiner has recovered from his indispo-
sition of yesterday. I'avy and Henry arc better, but Lockwood is greatly depressed in spirits and has about
given up all hope of life. Tiie raw bacon issued for dinner was greatly relished by all; it appears to impart
warmth and conifort to our bodies, and in general it is much more satisfactory than any other food in our
stock of provisions.

TiicsiUiy, jfaniiarY 22, 1884. — Weather clear, light westerly wind, and temperature —28.8 [—33. 8" C.].
The temperature inside the hut this morning was -f 20.8 [ —6.2° C.J. The c(...'ition of Lieutenant Lock-
wood is unchanged since yesterday. Petulant and childish remarks, from those w" > should know better,
have produced acrimonious discussions that are ])articularly distasteful to many, and \\.,''h tend to rer'der
our sufferings more excruciating than ever. Owing to the light furnished by the rapidly-rc'urning sun, ^ery
few stars were visible at noonday.

]yi(/ntsi/(n\ yanuary 23, 1884. — A cloudy, windy, and stormy day; temperature. —20.2 [ — 29.0° C.|.
Inside the hut it was +190 [ — 7.2° C.]. I made the usual weekly issue of provisions. Thus far we have
been using the bread found in the English caches; but now our own bread will be issued four times
weekly. The seal-skin stew served for breakfast was an excellent one, and we regret exceedingly that there
is only enough remaining for one more issue. Dr. I'avy, who is an indefatigable talker on all subjects and
at all times, enlivened the evening by recalling reminiscences of his journeyings through Switzerland ami
adjacent countries. Kane's Arctic Explorations were also produced and read aloud.

T/iiirsi/ay, yiinmvy 24, 1884. — Clear weather, with light westerly winds prevailing; temperature, — 20.0
[ — 28.9° C.]. Inside it is +20.0 [—6.7 C.]. Lockwood appears to be in better spirits to-day. The gen-
eral health of the party appears to be improving slightly under the effect of the late increase of rations.
Tiie "social b.irometer" has certainly risen several inches in the last two days. Raw b.icon, or, as Whisler
terms it, " Prairie fish," was again issued this morning with beneficial results. A chronological table, intro-
ducing all the jirincipal events since the earliest history of the world, was read this evening by Lieutenant
Cireely, and p.c.ed of great interest to all. Dr. Pavy, who has a wonderfully retentive memory and an
abundant store of valuable information at his command, supplies many missing dates that we may want.

Friday, yaiiuary 25, 1884. — Weather clear, light westerly winds, and temperature —22.0 [ — ^;o.o° C.|
Nothing of importance has occurred since yesterday. I have closely watched the changes in the souud
all winter, and at the present date believe it to be open, I will not, however, sjjcak of it to my companions
who think it frozen, for fear it might cause them to feel depressed in spirits. It is better that their minds
should remain in a hopeful state. Biederbick i- I'venty-five years of age to-day. A fine stew of seal meat
served at dinner put us all in a cheerful \ya.v^v. of n.ind.

Saturday, yaiiuary 26, 1884. — C;li)i and clear weat'ie. : temperature, —26.0 [— 32,2°C.]. Inside the
house it is +24.0 [—4.4° C.]. Our ijm.er, consisting of t iglisli canned beef and dog-hiscuit, was greatly
relished by all. The increase of rti -n?, to Rice and }'- >,, to place them in good physical condition to
undertake the hardships which th"; w U e-counter on 'iici. contenii)lated trip to the Creenland coast, began
to-day. Christiansen celebrated his jyth birthday in the usual manner. The doctor's pitients are about the
same; no material change having taken place (iuring the last week. Jewell's conduct has been that of a
child instead of a man during the last. Rhv days. But, with hunger slowly consuming his life, the poor fellow
H. Mis. 393 31

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4H2

TUE LADV FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

» annot be blamed for saying and doing foolish things. A bag of English bread which I liad estimated at
7Q pounds, was found, on adding together the various issues, to have actually contained 153 [xnnids.

Dark water-clouds overlianging Smith Sound suggest to the mind the existence of a great expanse of
o|iC" water in that direction. In view of this fact I am fearful that Rice will meet with obstacles in the
form of leads of waicr, and will be compelled tc turn back to us without accomplishing his mission.

Siiiidtiy, 'yanudiy 27, 1884.— A beautitul day; the weather is clear and calm, and a glorious diffusion
of light in the souihern sky gives promise of the speedy return of the long-absent sun. On returning front
a visit to the hill, Rice reported the (ireenland coast visible and that no indication of open water anywhere
appeared. In order that they might be better able to withsiand the cftects of the low temperature anil the
fatigues of their long trami), Dr. I'avy subjected the feet of l-'.i(-e and Jens to a severe treatment of rubbing
and beating to restore circulation to its normal state. Three white foxes were seen during the day; tem-
perature, -36.0 [-37.8° C.J.

Monday, yaiiuaiy 28, 1884. — Clear and calm weather; temperature at 8 a. m., —36.0 f — 37.°8 C] ; at
noon, —38.2 [ — 39.o°C.|. I visited Lookout Hill during the morning, and nolwitiistanding the highly
favorable reports of yesterday regarding the condition of the sound, I still think it remains unfrozen. I saw
a white fox in the rocks above our camp while ascemling the hill. Through my inability to ilistharge the
gun — the low temperature having affected the lock — the coveted animal esca|)ed. Rice began work on the
sleepiiig-bag which he and Jens will carry on their trip to Litdeton Island. It is a one-man dog-;, kin bag,
and will be enlarged to accommodate two men. Frederick, in addition to his duties as cook, is sewing fur
Rice on this uag and on his fur garments.

Lieutenant Greely authorized me to make the following extra issue to each mess to-morrow : Bread
dust, 10 ounces; and blubber, 8 ounces. On days when English meat and bacon are issued Elison will
receive three ounces extra of each.

Lieutenant Greely stated in confidence that, in consccjucnce of the gready weakened mind of Lleutcn.
ant Lockwood, Lieutenant Kislingbury would assume the command in tiie event of incapacity to himself.
This he considered as only justice to the party, owing to ihe physical as well as the mental incapacity of the
second officer. Dr. Pavy said to-day th.at if Lockwood did not "brace up" he would never recover.

A new industry sprang up in our midst to-day — that of manufacturing steariiie candles, with Henry as
the director. It is intended to use these as a substitute for blubber in lighting our hut. By so doing we will
be enabled to increase our ration of the latter,

Tuesday, yainiary 29, 1884. — Clear and calm weather; temperature, —32.0 [—35.6" C.]. Inside the
hut at time of lighting the cooking-stove this morning the thermometer indicated .1 temperature of +24
[ — 4.4° C], but while the cooks were preparing dinner it rose to +38.0 [-f 3.3° C.|. Rice and Erederiiik
resumed work on their sleeping-bag this morning. Jens is sewing faithfully on dog-skin nnttens and stock-
ings, which will be used while on his trip with Rice to Greenland. Henry is still making candles. We are
now using the mixed tea and sugar found in the English cache at Payer Harbor. It has been greatly in-
jured l)y dami)ness.

Lockwood is weake;. We were provided with an excellent stew of seal meat this evening. This
a|)pears to be the greatest blessing -.vith which we are supplied. It does everything to im|)art warmth to our
bodies by replenishing the internal fuel, i:nd it is so palatable that the keenest enjoyment is derived in its
consumption. I went out gunning for foxes this morning, but saw nothing.

Wedihsday, yaniiaiy 30, 1884. — Calm and cloudy weather ; temiierature at 8 a. m., —36 [—37.8° C.| ;
at noon it was — 24 [—31.1° C] ; inside Init, +23.0 [ — 5.0° C.J. Lockwood is growing steadily weaker
and weaker; he talks but seldom now, and stares vacantly about. Christiansen is suffering with cramiis in
his stomach. Tiie noble fellow complmns but litfie of his condition.

Ralston relieved Henry this morning as foreman of the stearine-candle establishment, and he has
already made important imjirovements in die methods of manufacturing. Bender is working on a cooking,
lamp for Rice; he is decidedly disagreeable, coarse, aud insulting in his remarks. He accused me of being
more considerate of the welfare of others than of his own, bul l)rought no facts to sup|)ort his assertions.
Schneider may be considered in the same category, but, being more of a hyijocrite tlian the former, is not
so reckless with his insinuations. I issued the last of the canned peas to-day.

Thursday, jfaiiuary 31, 18^,4. — Weather is cloudy; light wind, and temperature, —6.0 [ — 21.1"^ C.|. 1
put U]) rations for six days for Rice and Jens to lake wilii them 011 their Greenland trip. The amounts were
as follows: Lime-juice pemmiean, 2 pounds; sweet pemmican, 2 [lounds; JMiglish boiled bacon, 2 [jounds;

TlIU LAUV KUANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

483

liro.ii], 9 potiiuls; tea, '^^ pound; alcohol (for fuel), f)6 ounces, and rum, 6 yills. Unikr the most trying
lirciiiiistances Mender has made an excellent lamp for fielii service, which Rice and Jens will take with then).
Lieutenant Greely has prepared a record for Rice to depofut on the summit of Littleton island in the event
of his failure to meet any one there. He has also made out a short list of provisions which he desires will he
hrought over by the relief i)arty — ])rovided, of course, a relief party is there; and Dr. I'avy has futnisheil a
list of the medicines must needed at this time, which Rice will also take with him.

A good piece of r:nv hacon, nine ounces of United States bread, and half a cup of hot tea jilaied us ah
on good terms with ourselves this evening. Lockwood, poor fello\.-, is not improving at all; 1 think I can
see death in his eyes.

Fiiiltn\ Fehniaiy , 18S4. — The weather is cloudy and disagreeable; a light westerly wind is causing
considerable drift ; tem,)erature, — 15.5 \~^(■>.\° C.|, Two foxes were seen to-d;i), bm neither was taken by
the watchful hunters. Rice's ei!ui|)ment for the dangerous journey to the (Ireenland coast is \\k<\\ complete,
and he will start to uiorrow m')rning if the weather is mild enough to permit him to ('o .-.o. I.iiulenani
Lockwood is no better. 1 wish he would be more cheerful; it would have such a beneficial ellect on his
condition, and every one else wt)uld fee! better in his iinprovement.

One of the tinest meals that we have ever ktiown ii> this place was served this evening. 1 1 was <-oni-
posed of seal meal and lime-juice petnniican; the latter imparting a thoroughly agreeable llavor which was
doubly welcome because it was a change from the every-day mess.

liender and Wlii; ler would make good subjects f(>i' discipline. Thev engaged in a serious i|uanel
and the former, refusing to obey Lieutenant Greeiy's orders to ilesist, was sent by him into the vestibule to
"cool off."

Saliiitiay, Fi-bniury 2, 18S4. — Cloudy weather; light westerly winds; temperature at 7 a. m., — 19.0
(-28.3" C-.]; at noon, -27.5 I -33.1" ('.].

The cooks were called at 4.45 a. m. to enable Rice and Jens to secure an early start. They left at 8. (5.
While at breakfist every one appeared in ''le best of spirits atid each one endeavored to imbue Rice uith
his own bright view of the future. Mut to a close observer, this appearaiu;e of cheerfulness was all tuned
and superficial, to give ourage and strength to the brave souls who were about to do battle with the elements
and face every danger known to the arctic regions, for us who remain inactive here, powerless to assist. There
lurked, deej) down in the heart of every man, a feeling of dread of the future — a pr(;scntimentof impending
evil. Christiansen and myself took their i)acks (averaging about 40 pounds each) and started ahead in
order to give them a "lift " in the begimiing of their journey, liefore we had gone far Rice and Jens o\er-
took us, and the rille atid packs were transferred to them. .\ tremulous " Ooil bless you, " a hasty ])re:;suie
of tiieir hands, atul we turned away in tears from those brave tnen who were daring and about to endure Mt
nr.ich for our sakes. We waited until their receding forms were lost to view in the bewildering coniusion of
the ice-fields, and then slowly retraced our steps to the hut. While watching their |)rogress 1 distinctly heard
the hoarse grinding of the moving pack not far away. Hut of this I said nothing to my companions on
returning to them, because of the depressing efVuct which such information was sure to produce on their
minds. It is my opinion that Rice will be turned back by open water ;ind his heroic efforts in our behalf
thus rendered fruitless. If he succeeds in reaching Littleton Islanil and should find no party there, he
will endeavor to procure assistance from the natives, and with their teams cross to this side, leaving Jens,
who will hunt until our arrival.

Alter the exertion of carrying the pack this morning I was prostrated with a nervous chill, but luive
been revived somewhat by aromatic spirits of ammonia and rum. Long was fortunate eiiuugh to shoot a
blue fox this morning, which will furnish us with nearly meat enough for one meal. Lieutenant (Irecly
ordereil the fi)llowing change in the issues of provisions, which went into effect yesterday : Bread, from 5,7 o/.
to 64 oz. weekly, per man ; blubber, from 1 1 oz. to ^lYi oz.

'I'he light was sulliciently strong at noon to admit of the reading of the thennometer uithmit using a
lantern. LockwooJ appears somewhat better this morning; he went out in the vestibule during the day
f(jr exercise, and seemed benefited by the change. Christiansen astonished us all by .iiiiiouiu iiig his intentimi
of committing suicide. He is prol)ably somewhat down-hearteil since the departure of his dusky brnthci.

Sunday, Fcbruaiy 2,, 1884. — Weather fair; temperature at 8 a. m., —.'6.0 [—32.2" C.|; at 11 o'< lo( k
it rose to — 18.0 | —27.8" C.]. A light wind was blowing from the west this morning, but towards evening it
increased in velocity to a moderate gale.

I'oor Rice! We are all thinking abyut him and his brave companion, Jens, exposed as they ar.; to the

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itili*!

484

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION,

fury of the slorm, which is probably much worse on the floe of Smith Sound than in this place. Jewell fell
down in a dead faint tiiis evening, and was revived by the doctor only after great dililiculty. Connell has
also been feeling unwell. In both cases Dr. Pavy attributes the difficulty to the blubber which was in the
stew uiis evening. The exposure and exertion of yesterday has left me in anything but an agreeable or desira-
ble condition. Having caught a severe cold it has settled in all my joints and muscles, and my face, hands,
and limbs are greatly swollen. Notwithstanding the orders of Lieutenant Greely prohibiting the eating of
stearine, Schneider was detected in the act of swallowing some of it to-day.

Monday, Fchriiaiy i„ 1884 — Cloudy weather, light westerly winds, and temperature —24.5 [ — 31.4° C.].
The thermometer was read at noon by the light from the southern horizon without the aid-of a lantern.
Snow began fiiUing during the evening. I feel no better to-day. The doctor seemed alarmed at my con-
dition, but I cannot imagine that it is so serious. Jewell anil Connell have recovered from their overdose
of blubbeHaken in the stew yesterdiy. Lockwood appecrs to be gaining in strength; he got up and
moved about the interior of the hut without assistance. L'jnder manufactured some candlesticks, and
Ralston molded a few stearine candles. Two more stews have been added to the weekly number. I am
afraid that this is more than our limited fuel supply can endure.

Biederbick is now apparently in excellent condition, although he has been a faithful and indefatigable
worker in the interests of the sick. When he left Fort Conger in August last he could scarcely walk with-
out assistance, so crippled was he in consequence of rheumatism. In the face of all this hunger, dampness,
and exposure, he has steadily improved in health.

Tuesday, February 5, 1884. — Calm and cloudy; temperature, —23.0 [—30.6° C.J. The Greenland
coast at Cape Inglefield was seen to-day for the first time.

Lieutenant Lockwood has improved greatly during the last few days; I also am much better. Tlie
doctor says my illness is the result of exposure and greater physical exertion than my weak frame is capable
of enduring. I issued a portion of the weekly allowance to make my duties lighter to-morrow. Blubber
has been increased to eighteen ounces per week. Whisler is particularly disagreeable ; he appears to be
growing more quarrelsome every day.

Wednesday, February 6, 1884. — Cloudy, fresh southeast wind, and temperature —20.2 [ — 29.o°C.|.
Snow fell at intervals, and the weather has been very disagreeable generally.

As I predicted on the morning of their departure, Rice and Jons returned, having met with open water
about two miles east of Brevoort Island. They followed along the water's edge to the southwaid until
opposite Baird Inlet, .vpecting to find some point where the sound was "bridged" over by the i( e, thus
enabling them to cross to Littleton Island. But on every side they met with bitter disappointments and
were at last compelled to return. Rice says the belt of shore ice is about ten miles wide at Baird Inlet,
but of the extent of the water he can form no opinion owing to the dense fog and vapor constantly rising
from its surface, which prevents an extended view. In this water-space considerable quantities of ice were
observed to be drifting with the tide. Last night both suffered greatly ; Jens frosted his fingers while in
the sleeping-b-Tt? and Rice thawed thei 1 out by placing them in contact with his own warm body. They
then get up and van abotit in the snow to keep from freezing until there should be sufficient light to enable
them to travel. Jens is badly broken down and Rice is but little better off. Their lamp for melting ice
proved ineffective, and for two days they had scarcely a swallow of water. Rice estimates the distance
traveled at fifty miles.

Thursday, Febnuvy 7, 1884. — Clear weather, light west wind; temperature, —27.5 [ — 33.1° C.]. Lock-
wood is better. He has been receiving an extra allowance of bread, but owing to his marki-d improvement
it was discontinued to-day. I am in better condition than yesterday. Rice and Jens are very sf)re and
stiff in their joints, but on the whole they are better than we had expected they would be under the cir-
cumstances. Poor fellows ! how they must have suffered while struggling along on their errand of mercy
across the rugged and barren pack. Lieutenant Greely ; .vys he will not start betbre Marcli 6 to cross the
channel to Littleto.i Island. If it (the channel) is not closed at that date there will be but little hope of
its closing this sc.ison, and we will be compelled to remain where we are. In this event our provisions can
probably be extended to some time in April, 'i'his is not a particularly cheering view of the future for men
who have lived thiough the worst part of a wretched winter, and now, when the hour of succor is at hand,
to die miserably by star\'ation.

FridiiY, February 8, 1884. — C'lear and calm weather. Tiie mercury is again fro/en, I)ut it has been a
beautiful day nevertheless. I think I have entirely recovered my health again, but my strength lias not yet

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

485

returned. I took an inventory of the provisions this afternoon, and found on calculating roughly that we
could remain here for 70 days if we restricted ourselves to 4 ounces of meat and 8 ounces of bread per day.

Notwithstanding the impracticability of traveling across the pack to Littleton Island next month,
l)reparations fcr that trip will go actively forward. Boards composed of members of the party have been
appointed by Lieutenant Greely to attend to all details in this matter. Rice and myself have been instructed
to estimate the weight of every article that we would take with us, and thus find the approximate weight of
our load. Lieutenant Rislingbury was directed to take an inventory of the foot-gear now on hand and to
make a list of what was wanted, and then submit his report to Lieutenant Clreely.

It is just six months since we left our comfortable quarters at Fort Conger for the uncertainty of meeting
a vessel on this coast. Bender was quite ill last evening, but he is somewhat better now.

Satun/iiy, February 9, 1884. — The weather is clear and calm. The mercury is again frozen to-day,
but owing to the absence of wind no one appears to mind the increased cold weather much. All the inva-
lids appear to be improving now. Lieutetiant Greely has decided to reduce the ration of bread on Monday
next to 8 ounces per day. •

Sunday, February 10, 1884. — Clear weather, light wind, and temperature —36.5 J — 38.1° C.J. Both
the morning and evening meals were very satisfactory to-day, and some of the men were almost hilarious
in consequence.

A reduction in our bread ration to 59 ounces weekly will take place from to-morrow. The weekly
ration of blubber has been placed at 1 3 ounces per man, and the meat ration has been increased i y^ ounces
weekly. On the authority of my inventory of provisions, we can remain here until March 12 on our present
ration, and then have full provisions for ten days with which to cross to Littleton Islar.l.

Monday, February 11, 1884. — Cloudy and disagreeable weather; light westerly winds; temperature,

-37-0 [-38-3° C.].

I visited the hill this morning and from its summit could hear very distinctly the crushing of the mov-
ing pack in Buchanan Strait. It sounded not unlike distant thunder, and there was much in this booming
noise to produce a feeling of unrest and dread in the listener. In our situation especially this feeling
would naturally result, as our lives depend on the quiescent state of the ice. The heavy water-clouds were
unnecessary to indicate to us the presence of much water; the deep moaning of the ice was sufficient to tell
the story. Are those portentous clouds an augury of our future? Cm we save ourselves from starvation
now in view of this? I fear not. Without firm ice on which to cross the sound to Littleton Island but
slight hopes for life can remain to us. The words contained in Lieutenant Garlington's record, written
after the crushing of the Proteus by ice, that "Everything within the power of man will be done to rescue
the brave men at Fort Conger from their perilous position," brought tears to tlie eyes of the strong men
who listened to the reading of the letter that night in October in our dimly lighted hut at Eskimo Point.
Situated as we then were his words inspired us with tiope, but months have [jassed without bringing the
j)romised assistance, and now I am of the opinion that his hopeful words were written without due con-
sideration, and without a full knowledge or appreciation of the difficulties to be encountered.

In estimating the weights of the necessary articles to be carried on our contemplated journey across
Smith Sound, Rice and myself find that they will aggregate about 1,600 pounds. Nearly every one joined
in a discussion this morning relative to our equipment for this trip. Lieutenant Greely directed me to issue
stofkings, mittens, &:c., to those in need of them, in order that they might have them thawed and dried
before the date fixed for our departure. I issued the last of the seal meat and also the remainder ol the
American bacon. The weight of the former exceeded the estimate by 17 pounds, the latter by 8 pounds.
In emptying the rum cask I found a shortage in its contents of about two gallons. The deficiency is
accounted for from the fact that all issues have been made with an I'^p.glish standarti measure instead of the
one in use in the United States, the former being the larger.

Tuesday, February 12, 1884. — Clear and calm; the temjierature is very low, mercury being frozen. We
judge the temperature to be about 50° bejow zero |about —45.0° C.].

Rice reports having had a good view of the sound from Cemetery Ridge, and says that a large space
of open water <-ould be seen. The noise made by the crushing ice can be distinctly heard in our camp. I
do not diink I am mclincd to look on the gloom)- side of the future, even after all the d -.ngers and hardships
by which we lia\e been beset; but if the state of the sound will not ])ermit us to cross before our ])rQvisions
are exhausteil, and no assistance comes from the other side, we are certainly doomed to die a wretched death
by starving.

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48()

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

I opened a new barrel of bread this morning, and found a few of the pieces slightly moldy. This was
rather unexpected as the barrel is one of those taken from the Beebe cache. The stew of roast beef (canned)
and pemniican prepared for dinner was well flavored and particularly liked.

Wednesday, February 13, 1884. — Clear weather, light westerly winds, and temperature —36.0 [—37.8°
C.]. I served some of the members with clothing, and issued the usual weekly sup|)ly of provisions. The
last of our rice went to-day. The provisions will extend to March 12, at the least calculation. Some have
suggested that my scales must possess the power of magic in order to extend the bread and meat ns they
have done. A stew of bread, bacon, and salt water was tried this even-ng, and was at once pronounced a
decided success. In our present ra\enous condition, I do not deem it possible that any dish could be intro-
duced here that would not be voted a success. Frederick has begun the irksome duty of repairing our seal-
skin boots; tlie work tries his wounded fingers greatly, but he is not one to succumb easily to triHes. On
overlooking the sound from Cemetery Ridge this morning, I was greatly surprised to fiml that the water
had encroached to Brevoort Island, and that it extended northward as far as the eye could reach.

Thursday, Fi/iniaiy 14, 1884. — Clear and calm weather; temi)erature at 8 a. m., — 17.0 [ — 27.2° C.J;
at 1 1 a. 111. it had fallen to — 28,0° [—^li-i" C.J. The water appears to be steadily encroaching on the ice
at Cajie Sabine. The clouds, however, which are produced by this increasing space of open water, are less
marked than yesterday. To day my hunger has led me to think and talk much about food; and all sorts
of incongruous combinations that could be suggested to the minds of hungry men were discussed. It now
cx'curs to us that this is St. Valentine's Day, but I think diat none of us expect to be the recipient c)f a missive
of that sort just now. A small jiiece of butter was found missing from a can kept in the whale-boat on the
same shelf with Henry's candle-molds.

Friday, February 15, 1884. — Clear weather; fresh westerly wind; tenii)eraturc, —25.3 [— 3i.8°(".|;
inside the house it ranges from -|-2i.o [ — 6.1° C.| to -I-25.0 [ — 3.9°C'.J.

Lieutenant Lockwood is better, but he does not gain as rajiidly as we would like. He exercised some-
what this morning. The sun will apjjear above the horizon to-morrow for the first time this year, if the
temperature should fall to —50.0 [ — 45.6° C.| in the mean time. We are not very enthusiastic over its
return, but each one thinks more than he cares to express in words. Schneider, Ellis, and Salor are sewing
on boots, stockings, mittens, and other articles for use on our contemplated trip to Oreenland. Frederick
and Jens jierforin the most ini|)ortant i>art of this work — that of [)re|iaring the soles of the boots.

The time is dragging wearily, but we try to keep up our spirits even imderthe most trying and discoiu-
aging circumstances. 'J'he few moments spent at our meals are the only pleasant ones that we know during
the entire day. The party appear to be doing very well on the present reduced ration. I am afraid that
Bender will render our condition absolutely wretched if he conjnues to develop the contemitible cpialities
with which he has regaled us (hiring the last few days.

Saturday, February \(i, 1884. — Clear weather; fresh west wind, and temiierature —22.5 1—30.3° (".].
Owing to the high temperature to-d.ay, we were not favored by seeing the sun above the horizon at noon;
neillier could its reflection be seen on Bache Island. I overhauled the shot-gun ammunition to-day and
made an inventory of the same. We have in all two hundred and sixty-five rounds, twenty-five of whi<h
are loaded with bullets suitable for killing seals or any larg(.' game.

1 ( annot refrain from again speaking of Bender's despicable conduct. He certainly deserves punish-
ment for the disresijeclful manner which he has assumed towards those in authority during the last few days;
but what can be done here ! We cannot resort to severe measures to ( orrect this evil, but moral obligations
and the manly spirit which all are supposed to possess must govern these things.

Sunday, February 17, 1884. — Clear weather; light westerly winds; temperatare at 12.30 p. m., —9.5
1-23.1° C.j; at 3 ]i. ill., -21.0 [ — 29.4-' C.J.

A' 'ord'ng to Israel's calculations, the sun must have been lo' above the horizon at noon. It was not
vi-:ili|i: ii us, b n ever, owing to the dark v/ater-clouds wiiich concealed the southern horizon at the point
whii, 1; would have ajipeared. It has now lieen absent from us for 115 days. Some intimate that it is
.liii iiit, n'ion to r'-main in the futi<re wlice the "gloricnis orb" may be seen at least once in every twenty-
'oii' hours

A \M(!e laiiv 01 water is vis .lie from the hill, and the ice is grinding fearfully in Ihichanan Strait. The
isuai Sunday .1. irning bi-cad j ,u Iding w.is jiartakcn of uitli greater relish tlian ever, and its exct'lleiit (juality
ei'Ci -.1 'n'lre thin liic customaiy praise, in rons('i|ucMii' nt the limitid (jiiantity of rum on hand, no more
wil. I ',)■<• c \t ;v iss-i, i\.

TOE LADY FHANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

487

Monday^ February i8, 1884.— Clear and calm weather; temperature at 7 a. m., —15.5 [ — 26.4" C.];
at noon, —5.3 [ — 20.7° C.]. The remaining portion of our corned beef, seal meat, mutton, American liacon.
seal-skin, peas, string beans, carrots, salmon, St. John's bread, bread from P'ort Conger, Mnglish chocolate
and tea, and onion powder have iiecn issued ; also, all our salt and pepper, cxcejit a small (piantity, which is
being kept for Islison. I walked down the coast a short distance in (piest of game, but was disappointeil in
finding not even a trace of animal lift;. The short walk left me very weak.

Rice climbed to the summit of the island and reported, on his return, that Smith Sound was an open
sea, with rafts of ice di'fting about its surface. Long went to ilie iceberg, and then traveled about four miles
farther in a northeasterly direction, not reaching, however, the open water. 'I'he fact gives him tiie imiires-
sion that no open water exists, notwithstanding the report of Rice. If the rc|)ort of Rice be correct (and
I believe it is), 1 think that we need no longer delude ourselves into believing that we will escape alive; but,
however horrible, the end, all are prepared to face it like men. One, however (Bender), would latlKr devour
all the provisions now, and die at once, than to prolong them as far as |)Gssible, with the hope of ultimate
re.scue. This person has done very little this winter towards the regular routine of duty, and he has made
many unreasonable complaints, which have gained him the contempt of his companions. To-day he com-
plained bitterly that his bread was not up to the standard weight, and although he admitted that no par-
tiality had been shown, and that he had the same quantity as the others, and that no injustice had been
done, still, for the sake of grumbling, he '•■It 'hat he must do something. Assuming that this attack was
directed towards me, I at once re(iuested tc be relieved from the duty of issuing provisions, but the com-
manding officer would not listen to my appeal.

Tuesday, February 19, 1884. — Cloudy weather. A southerly gale was in progress during the forenoon,
but at 2 o'clock the storm had subsided and the sky cleared; temiierature at 8 a. m., +8.3 [— i3.2°C.];
at 9.30 a. m., ■\-\i.o | — n.i° C] ; at 1 1 a. m., -I-22.0 [—5.6° C] ; and at 2.30 p. m , — i.o [— 18.3° C.].
At 5 p. m. the sky again became obscured by clouds and the temperature soon rose to -f 3.5 | — 15.8° C.J.
I went on Cemetery Ridge at 2.30 p. m., and my observations from that point confirmed the report of Rice
yesterday regarding the condition of Smith Sound. No ice of any description was visible in the ojjcn water,
and the waves and white ca[)s were rolling in against the edge of the fast ice with a dismal roar which
sounded in our ears like the knell of our impending doom. The water has encroached close to Cape Sabine
and extends northward in the direction of Cape Louis Napoleon, and eastward toward the Greenland coast
as far as the eye can reach. Thi-^ condition of affairs is a particularly bad showing for us with our stock of
provisions so greatly reduced. \i hat can we do to save the lives of our noble fellows? Frederick is still
working on the foot-gear of the party, repairing it the best he can.

Wednesday, February 20, 1884. — Cloudy weather, light west winds, and temperature at 8 a. m. —11. 2
[ — 24.0° C.J. At 5 p. m. it had risen to —2.5 [ — 19.2° C.J. On the whole the weather to-day has been very
disagreeable, and not at all cond: 've to cheerful spirits.

A raven was observed flyinj. er our camp this morning. Although it is considered a bird of ill-omen,
still its presence cannot affect us w. We have suffered and endured the stern reality of the worst pliases
of arctic life too long to give w to superstitious fears at this hour. Long and Christiansen attempted to
reach the open water this morn. ^, but they were turned back by the rising wii.d, which was found impossi-
ble to face. Bender repaired • alcohol can and one of our stew pots in a most artistic manner, considering
the materials at hand. On e anation I find that we have about 21 gallons of alcohol in stock at this time.
Notwithstanding the fact that a terrible fate awaits us within a few weeks unless " something turns up,"
we are making all sorts of" lans for the future. Rice and myself contemplate a lecturing tour through the
Western States, combiniii,^ inifit with pleasure. Others have similar projects. Nothing can repress our
expressions of hope of escape from this bondage.

Thursday, February 21, 1S84. — Calm and cloudy weather; temperature at 8 a. m., — i i.o f — 23.9" (.!.] ;
at II a. m., —3.0 [—19.4" ('. ; and at 4.30 p. in., — lo.o [ — 23.3° C.J. After a brief visit to the hill Rice
reports large water-spaces m imith Sound northeast of Cape Sabine. This is bad for us, but lie imparts the
cheering information that tbc ic:e has "bridge<l" across the sound farther to the south, and thiic means of
escape may yet be furnished us. The " mercurial temperaments " instantly rose several degrees at tliis
announcement, and care anv! M^ffering were for the moment forgotten. Cold, calm weather is now all that
is recpiired to assure our ulti: 1 . e safety by cementing fiimly this ncrtly- formed bridge of drift-ice.

I i.ssued the list of the fro/en bread to-da)' ; yesterday the remaining jiortion of the I'jiglish beef was
used. The large sledge has been shoveled out from the drift which hail formed over it, antl extensive re[)uirs

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488

TlIK LADY FRANKLIN HAY KXPEDITION.

on it are contemplated within the week. The temperature inside is now ranging from -I-30 to +40 [ — 1.1°
C. to +4.4° C.J, and the consecjuent melting of the frost from the roof renders our condition deplorable in
the extreme. The sun was not visil)le to us to-day, hut its reflection was seen on Hache Island for the first
time since last October. Dr. I'avy is entertaining us with a series of lectures on the history of France from
the eadiest authentic date to the present time.

Friiltiy, Fihniaty 21, 18S4. — Fresh westerly winds and cloudy weather all day; light snow fell during
the early evening; temperature at 6 a.m., — ii.o [ — 23.9° C.J; at 5.30 p.m., - 3.0 [—19.4° C.J. The
barometer lias been falling with alarming rapidity all the afternoon. From Cemetery Ridge I viewed the
ice-fields this morning, and find them in substantially the same condition as that reported by Rice yesterday.

The advent of the anniversary of the birth of Washington was hailed with delight by all because of the
proposed change in the matter of meals. In honor of the occasion Lieutenant Greely directed the cooks to
<le|)art from the usual routine and prepare a hard-bread pudding for breakfast, in which twenty ounces of
lard were useil by each of the two messes. This amount of fat rendered the dish both rich and agreeable
in taste. I'or dinner a stew of Knglish and lime juice ]ieinniican was served, which was pronounced the best
we had ever eaten. I issued the last of the Proteus tea this evening. Lieutenant Kislingbury sent a com-
municatidii to the commanding officer to-day relative to a change in the scale of rations.

SdtiinidY, Fel'iuaiy 23, 1884. — This is a stormy and disagreeable day. Winds have been somewhat
variable, but chiefly from the south. Light f;ill of snow, and temperature —6 [ — 21.1° C.J. The monotony
of our existence seldom varies from this apathetic state; we talk of food and long for news from our home
and friends. It is conceded by all that the most desirable thing that we could have just now would be a
"s(|uare" meal. Every one is very enthusiastic now over the flavor of the Wiltshire bacon found in the
English cache at Payer Harbor. To be sure it is slightly rancid, but this appears to improve its (juality.

Siniifay, Ftbniary 24, 1884. — Brisk westerly winds and cloudy weather; temperature, —16 1—26.7° C.J
About three inches [76"""J of snow fell during yesterday afternoon and evening. Owing to the high tem-
perature the annoying dripjiing of moisture from the roof of the hut still continues. The usual issue of
lemons was made to the party to-day, but no rum was served in view of the limited ([uantity on hand. It
appeared to possess almost life-giving qualities, and its absence is greatly dei)lored.

Considerable water was visible in the sound to-day. and the bridge whicli had formed a ^nw days ago
from shore to shore has entirely disappeared from view under the influences of the lake wind storms. This
is something not wholly unexpected, but at the same time it is bitterly disappointing, it bein.; the last faint
hope of escape which remained with us. I think, however, that we can bear pain anrl disajipoi'itmcnts with
a greater display of fortitude and resignation th.an ever before in our lives. Ralston is suflfering with a sore
finger, the aftection of which is similar in character to the fingers of Gardiner or Biederbick.

In a letter to the commanding ofl'icer, Lieutenant Kislingbury offers to conduct a small party across the
sound to Littleton Island to secure relief for those who are too weak to attempt the march. This to be
done in the event of Smith Sound freezing over. He also in the same letter objects to any further increase
in our meat ration until we have some means of augmenting our supply. For the information of the party
generally. Lieutenant Oreely stated that he would start lor Littleton Island at the first op|)ortuuity, but
would never divide the command.

Mmiday, February 25, 1884.— Light snow and brisk westerly winds, which have caused heavy drifting;
temperature at 7.30 a. ni., —16.1 [ — 26.7° C.J; and at 5 p. m., — lo.i [—23.3° C.|. Our cooking vessels
having beccjme somewhat dila])idated were skillfully repaired by Bender. Th<; barometer has been again
falling rapidly; another storm is brewing most likely. The last of the Wiltshire bacon was issued this
evening, and by all it was pronounced the best they had ever eaten.

Tuesday, February 26, 1884. — The nioning was cloudy and gloomy, but towards evening the sky
cleared beautifully p.ntl the stars appeared. The high wind subsided at 3 a. m., and in a short time a rise
ofhalfaninch fi2.7"""J in the barometer was noted. The temperature at 7.30 a. m. was — 1 0.0 [ — 23.3° C.J ;
at 5.30 p. m., — 16.0 [ — 26.7° C.J, and at 8 p. m., —19.7 [ — 28.7° C.J. About four inches [about ioo"""|
of snow has fallen during the last three or four days. The water-spaces in Smith .Sound appear to have been
considerably enlarged since yesterday. On examination I find that the blubber will suflice for only one
more regular i.ssue, and that will be a very small one.

Wednesday, February 27, 1884. — Clear and calm weather; temperature at 7 a. m., —22.0 [ — 30.0° C.J,
and at 5 p. m., —27.2 [—32.9° C.J. I passed around the outei extremity of the ]:cninsula this morning in
search of game, but saw ncMhing. This place appears to be entirely deserted by all animal life now. At

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TIIK LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

48U

noon for the second time this year the sun was seen reflected on Bache Island. Dense clouds of vapor are
seen ascending from tht; water-spaces in Smith Sound and Kane Sea. Tlie remaining portion of l)hil)l)cr,
onion pickles, dog-biscuit, extract of beef, and extract of cotilee were issued to-day. Henry celebrates his
birthday.

Thursday, February 28, 1884. — Calm and cloudy weather. The temperature at 7 a, m. was —23.0
|— 3o/i"CJ; and at 6 p.m., —27.1 [ — 32.8° C.]. \'esterday liiederbick reported Lieutenant Lo(kwoo(l
for having used tobacco despite the express orders of Lieutenant (Ireely and Dr. i'avy. He (Lo< kwood)
emphatically denied having used any, but circumstances elicit the truth of Hiedurbick's statement. It is
evident that Lockwood's mind is so weak that he lia<l forgotten both the orders and the lai t that he had
used tol)a<:co. He is not improving at all in health, and he is growing somewhat irritable in dis[)osition.

Friday, Ft'hruary 29, 1884. — t'lear and calm weather; temperature at 6 a. ni., —32.0 [ — 35.6" (".]; at
noon, —30.0 [ — 34.,)." C). Tile hori/on has been so hidden by dense vapors that the sun could not pene-
trate to us to-day. There has been a dec ''led improvement in the spirits of the men during the last week.
'I'he) api)ear as cheerful as if they were enjoying the privileges of civilization, rather than this state (if
barbarism.

Saturday, March i, 1884. — The weather has been clear, but the fresh westerly winds which have been
prevailing all day dri\e the snow about so recklessly that we do not care to venture out; temjierature,
— 35 I —37.2° C.|. The barometer is again falling. 1 had the natives unlash the large sledge, preparatory
to the repairs which will be made on it next Monday. Yesterday Hender and W'jiisler placed the small
sleilge in proper condition for traveling. The former, while cleaning the shot gun, lost one of the importa'.t
extra parts through neglect. The gun, however, can be used if due care is exercised in handling. 1 took
an inventory of the meat yesterday, and found that we still have 319 pounds on hand. Lieutenant dreely
said last night that if circumstances were favorable he would increase the ration on Wednesday next, and
start for Littleton Island on the following Monday. To judge from his appearance and conduct. Lock-
wood's mind must be ve!-. \\: 'k. Owing to the severity of the storm, no one visited the hill to-day.

Long tells mc the t iu ■n:,; little episode, which he considers a very good joke: On the evening of the
day of Henry's birthday, i.e (Long) neglected to add the allowance of tea while preparing diuTier, and did
not discover his mistake until after he had issued to each person a cup of hot water. As no one delected
the absence of the tea, Long of course did not care to acknowledge this omission, and has said nothing
about the matter until to day, when he related it to me in confidence.

Long and earnest discussions on the subject of food are now being made with greater vigor than
ever before. Frederick has at last completed the boots, and he is now working on the slee])ing-stockings of
dog-skin and blanket. Schneider is making stearine candles for use on the journey across to Littleton
Island. I prepared a large piece of tin, on which will be marked the name, age, and dale of the death of
L'ross, and be placed Oier his grave. We would like to use a portion of our boat to mark his last resting-
place, but cannot afford to do so owing to scarcity of fuel. In remembrance of our dead com])anion,
Sergeant Cross, Lieutenant Greely has named the little lake which so long supplied us with water. Lake
Cross.

Sunday, Match 2, 1884. — Clear weather and brisk west winds; temperature at 7 a.m., —22.5 | —30.3" C. |,
and at 5 p. m., —24.0 [ — 31.1° (J.J. The blinding drift outside prevents open-air exercise to-tlay. Of our
stock of lemons only two remain. They will be kept for use in the event of illness.

Lieutenant Lockwood appears to be improving in strength again, but his mind is greatly weakened.
He does not seem to possess the happy faculty of bearing up against adversity like some of the otlu-rs —
Llison, for instance — who is so brave and patient in his sufferings that his conduct elicits tlie admiration and
love of his more fortunate companions.

Monday, March 3, 1884. — Weather clear. A high westerly wind has been blowing all day, which
amounted at times to a moderate gale; temperature at 7 a. ni., —27.5 [ — 33.1° C'.J; at 2 p. m., — 25.0

|-3>-7°L".]-

Using my latest inventory of provisions as a guide, the commanding officer has made careful calcula-
tions for the future, and says that on the present ration we can live until the first week in .Aiiril. If no
ojiportunity occurs for crossing the sound to Littleton Islanil before the i6th instant, all hope of leaving this
place must be abandoned; and if we do not suc( ee<l in securing game, our end will not be far distant on
April 15. On my recommendation, the commanding officer ap|)ointed Frederick a sergeant \\\ the general
service, vice Cross, deceased. This is a fitting recognition, at this time, for his excellent services this winter.

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490

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY KXPEDITION.

Biederbick has been very ill with cramps, but he has now improved to such an extent that he is agairi
enabled to perform his duties as nurse and hospital steward. ) brought in one of the runners of the large
sledge, and W'hiskr began to make the necessary repairs. Mender's inventive genius appears to be limitless;
he has designed and constructed several candlesticks of an entirely new an<l original pattern, which may be
used for a double purpose. Schnieder is making stearine candles, and Frederick is still working on the
sleeping-stockings intended for our journev. Ralston's hand ajipears to be improving under the doctor's
careful treatment. Owing to the heavy drifting of the snow to day, we could not get a satisfactory view
of the water-spaces in Smith Sound. Temperature inside the hut, +21.5 [ — s.8°C.].

Titist/dv, A/(ir,/i .4, 1S84. — Cloudy ; the high westerly winds of yesterday have not yet abated, and snow
has been falling at intervals all day ; temperature at 7 a. m., —21.5 [ — 29.7° C], and at 5 p. ni., — 23.0
\—:^o.6'' C.]. Nothing has been done on the sledge to day in conse(|uence of the indisposition of Bender,
\ is to assist Wliisler in making the alterations and rei)airs. Lieutenant (Ireely made a redu(-tion in our
r 11 of bread, which will take effect to-morrow. It has been placed at eight ounces i)er man ]ier diem.
1 )e will increase the ration of meat slightly in a few days. The last of the blubber, Hudson Hay pemmican,
and American pennnican were issued this afternoon.

U'n/iicsifiiy, March 5, i.SS^. — ("loudy and stormy weather; temperature at 7 a. m., —22.0 [—30.0° C] ;
at 1 1 a. m., — 23.0 [ — 30.6" C. | ; and at 2 p. m., — 19.0 [ — 28.3° C. |. Tiie wind is blowing with persistent and
relentless fury. It continues with the same terrific velocity as yesterday, and confines us closely to the
interior of our dwelling. I, however, crawled out for a visit to Cemetery Ridge to look at the sound. The
water appeared to be farther away than before, but large s])aces still exist, as the somber water clouds on the
horizon will testify. CaDcs Hawks and Louis Napoleon, with the "delectable mountains" of Hayes in the
distance beyond them, were distinctly visii)le to the eye.

I issued the last of the corn, soup, tomatoes, and English evaporated po.atoes. Bender is ill again with
the ohl lung troubles. Bacon stews, with a large jtroportion of rancid tallow added, are generally liked. The
strong rancid flavor is something that a delicate stomach would at once rebel against, but to as it is agreeable
and palatable; it affords a welcome change from the ordinary routine by having a peculiar flavor which is
both distinct and pronounced in its nature.

Thursday, March 6, 18S4.— Clear weather ; temperature at 7 a. m., — 20.8 [—29.3° C], and at 5 p. m.,
— 24.5 [—31.4° C.J; the wind subsided at noon, but in the evening it again resumed its original velocity,
and in cors -fiucnce Iieavy drifting was experienced. I issued the last can of lard to the cooks this morning ;
a small qu:n ity will be kept to use on Elison's wounds.

On vibLJ ig the hill I saw the open water extending to the north as far as my eye could reach. On
account of its !iarrowness the lead res(^nibled a sluice-way ; and in view of its direct course to the southward
I am of the opinion that it is in the axis of the channel. On making a close examination of the left runner
of the large sledge I finrl two knees broken and one other greatly weakened. Frederick has completed his
work on the sleeping-stockings to the satisfaction of all.

Friday, March 7, 1884. — Clear and calm weather ; temperature at 7 a. m., —15.4 [ — 26.3° C], and
at 2 p.m., — 18.0 [—27.8° C.]. Rice saw the sun this morning for the first time since last October — nearly
five months ago. For t;iis glimpse of old Sol's rosy face he had to pay dearly, it being necessary to climb
the rugged sides of the island nearly to its summit. Long ascended Beebe Point, and, after taking a survey
of the floe, proceeded to the northeast to the open water which was about one mile distant from the point
named. F'ollowing along the water's edge to Brevoort Island, he found only a narrow belt of ice between
the water and the base of the island. Ascending to the summit of this island, he looked to the north, east,
and south, and within the range of his vision nothing but open water was observed. A few pieces only of
debris ice were seen drifting along with the current. He saw two bear tracks, one large and one small, and
the fresh trail of a fox. Kislingbury went out to the large berg just north of Camp Clay, and accidentally
breaking through the ice narrowly escaped being drowned. With great difficulty he returned to the hut;
his clothing having frozen so stiffly that it was almost impossible to walk. He reports the existence of con-
siderable water about the berg and says he thinks it will be a paradise for seals in a few weeks, or as soon
as the warmer weather approaches. Rice saw a !)race of ptarmigan on Cemetery Ridge, but before he could
secure a gun they had disappeared from vie'v.

Frederick intended to begin work on the sleeping-bags tiii.~ morning, but in consequence of their frozen
state his operations in that direction have been susj, ended indefinitely. Bender has been very aggressive in
his conduct to-day; he llatly contradicted Lieutenant ("ireciy. ai.il in addition made a very extravagant and
reckless use of profanity. 1 issuetl the remaining portions of the cloudberries and chocolate extract.

TIIH LADY FUANKLIN MAY HXI'KDITION.

491

Saturday, March 8, 1884. — A gale rose siKklrnly tVoin the southeast at about 2 a.m., and continued
without intermission during the entire day. It is without ilouht the severest storm that has yet visited us here.
Temperature at 7 a ni., — 3.0 1 — 19.4° C], and at i p. ni., —2.4 [ — 19.1° C.J.

The remainder of our rice and tomatoes were used for soup this morning. l'"redcrick transformed a
three-man sleeping-bag into one for the use of two men. The poor fellow suffers greatly with liis sore fingers
while working in the low tem[)erature of the interior of the hut, but he is indefatigable and never complains.
Whislcr completed the repairs and alterations needed on the large sledge, and it is now ready for the
Meld. Hender assisted him whenever his condition woukl |)crmit. I broke up another barrel for fuel to-day.
Two staves suffice to prepare a meal low, bit it may be necessary in the near future to reduce even this
meager allowance. Ralston's fin^^er is improving slowly.

For the first time this winter, hair-cuttiiig was extensively indulged in. The style of the cut was com-
fortable but scarcely artistic. Those wishing to reduce the length of their hair crawled on their hands and
knees to the foot of their respective sleeping-bags and held their heads in the passage, while the tonsorial
artist passed along the line armed with a huge pair of shears, and about ten seconds were devoted to the
removal of the superfluous burden of matted hair on each head. Mine was over six inches in length.

Siiiii/ay, Afan/i 9, 1884. — The full force of the gale was broken a; 4.30 a.m., but it blew, however,
with great violence at intervals all day; temperature at 7 a. m., — lo.o [ — 23.3° C.|, and at 3 p. m., —84
[ — 22.4° C.J; inside house, -i-26.0 \ — T,.i° C). The barometer, which has been falling for two davs, rose
ra|iidly this morning. Considerable disagreeable dripping from the walls and roof was experienced 11. :«
evening during the preparation of the evening meal.

Lieutenant Creely has decided to send Long and Christiansen with the small sledge and six days' pro-
visions to Alexandra Harbor, for the purpose of securing any game that may inhabit that region. I had
volunteered with others, and felt confident that I woidd be one of those selected for this journey. Owing
to our greatly reduced strength, this will be a journey of extraordinary danger and hardship.

Mom/ay, March 10, 1884. — The gale continued all last night with relentless fury, but at about noon it
abated to a fresh wind and blew steadily from the southeast; temperature at 7 a.m., —9.5 | — 23.1" C.j,
and at 2 p. m., — 6.5 [ — 21.4° C). On visiting the hill near Cemetery Ridge, I saw a narrow lane of water
just east of Cape Sabine, with ice beyond, which apiieared to extend to the fJreenland coast, which was
then plainly visible. Rice afterwards ascended considerably higher, and reported on liis return that the ice
ajipeared continuous from this to the Creenland const, but that it was badly disintegrated. .Should we be
fortunate enough to have calm, clod weather to cement this ice, our chances are yet favorable to reach the
opposite side of Smith Sound this month.

Riederbick has been detailed as cook in place of Long, who has been relieved to make preparations for
his trip to the westward. I issued to him bread and meat at the rate of ten ounces per day of the former
and eight ounces per day of the latter. He also takes suthcicnt alcohol for fuel to last eir.ht days; and, to
be used in the event of illness resulting to himself or Christiansen, a pint of rum and a small ([uantity of
aromatic spirits of ammonia will be included in his outfit. I followed along the coast to the westward for
a short distance to-day, but I saw nothing of the game of which I was in (juest — not even a trace of any
living thing. We are now burning stearine candles to light our hut, all our stock of blubber being ex-
hausted. More dissatisfaction occurred in our mess this evening, but Lieutenant Creely promptly settled
the matter by directing the cook to make divisions of the food according to the best of his judgment, and to
distribute the plates himself instead of having a second party pass them.

Tuesday, March 11, 1884. — Clear and calm weather; temperatuu- at 6 a. tn., — 19.1 [ — 28.4° C.]; at 5
p. m., —21.5 [ — 29.7° C.]. This is one of the most beautiful days that has visited us in this ])lnce, and to us
it ])robably seems brighter than any other, as the welcome rays of the sun flooded the exterior of our hut for
the first time. To facilitate Long's journey. Rice and Ellis hauled his sledge to the west end of Cocked
Hat Island. They say the traveling is good, but t!iat their excessive veakness would not permit them to go
far. They returned, however, in fair condition. A siiort time after thr: departure of the sledge Long and
Christiansen started on their hazardous journey, taking with them the kind-'st wishes of their less strong but
grateful companions, whose eyes would perhaps never again s.-e them in this world. A raven was seen
near Corked Hat Island, but it was too far distant to enable the siedgers to get a shot at it.

From the hill I saw that no apparent change had taken place in the ice-fields since yes erday. The
flreenland shore was still visiljle, and very little vapor could be dctec'ed in any direction. It ... but natural
that I should feel greatly encouraged with the prospect before us now. With a few cold nights, and with

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TMK LADY FKANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

an absence of liigh winds, we may expect to see the sound close sufficiently to admit of our crossing to the
opposite side. Without surh conditions — well, we must wait for the ship, I supjiose, or — starve! Our
rations will last till about the middle of April, and after that we have no hope except in game. The (|ues-
tion we are now anxiously asking one another is, "Will Long do something for us by securing game at
Alexan<lra Harbor?" I had Jens lash together the large sledge this morning, so that everything might be
in readiness for an immediate start at the |)ro|ier moment. I saw the track of a solitary i)tarinigan in the
snow near the house this morning. Our evening stews have been reduced from two to one kettle |)cr meal,
in oriler to save fuel. The solid portion of the stews is the same as formerly, and the reduction is but little
missed, and parli< ularly as the second kettle of stew was usually little more than salt wattr slightly warmed.
Our evening readings continue, and the days are sometimes passed in noisy discussions on the important
events of the day in Germany, and in preparing, in the imagination, elaborate combinations of that ever-
popular disli known a;; "hash." All our subjects for conversation a|)pear to have been pretty well ventilated;
and for hours at a time, even during the day, silence will reign sujireme.

Ilh/iiisi/tiy, AfttJi/i 12, 1884. — Cloudy weather with light snow occasionally falling; temperature at 6
a. m., —25.1 [—31.7° C.j; at i p. m., — 16.0 [ — 26.7° C.J; and at 6 p. m., —23.5 [—30.8° C.J. I tramped
through the soft snow in the direction of Cajie Sabine in search of game, but had not quite reached the cape
when I was compelled to turn back by the rising of a terrific storm, which came from the southward. Saw
the track of a fox. The last storm has broken into the floe to the westward of Cape Sabine, and the water
has encroached to the vicinity of Beebe's cache. No ice was observed drifting in the water, which was as
clear and tran(piil as in the month of .August. I followed northward along the margin of the floe, and
returned to the hut by the way of the large berg. About this berg are several |)ools, which are probably
kept open by the action of the tide. Owing to the absence of water-clouds over Smith Sound, I do not
think that water-spaces are as extensive there as in Kane Sea. Frederick resumetl work on the sleeping-
bags this morning. f^Iison's ration of bread has been reduced from sixteen to twelve ounces; his meat
ration, however, was increased three ounces.

ThursJay, Afanh 13, 1884. — Clear, calm weather; temperature at 6 a. m., —23.0 f — 30.6° C.J; at 2
p. m., —21.1 [ — 29.5° C.J; and at 6 p. m., —25.8 [ — 32.1° C.J.

Rice observed ptarmigan tracks near the hut this morning, and Lieutenant Kislingbury and myself,
thinking that they might still be near the camp, went out in search of them. A tramp of over two hours'
duration revealed nothing of their whereabouts, though they had visited every spot in our vicinity that pro-
duced vegetation. The channel looks more favorable now than ever before. The dark water-clouds have
entirely disappeared, and light, fleecy vapors have taken their ])lace. It is my opinion that the narrowest
part of the sound will " choke " with the drifting masses of ice, and if the cold, calm weather continues, this
l)ack will solidify and thus furnish us with a means of escape. 'I'he barometer has been vacillating greatly of
late, but it is now tpiite steady. Long and Christiansen are having excellent weather for their hunting expe-
dition, I have little conlidence in their ability to secure large game in that region at this season of the year,
but will depend mainly for existence on the seals, which will probably make their appearance in April, or on
the arrival of a relief party from Littleton Island, if the conditions of traveling will permit them to cross over.
Friday^ March 14, 1884. — Clear and calm weather; temperature at 7 a. m., —27.2 [ — 32.9° C.J, and at
7 p. m., —30.5 [—34.7° C.J. Owing to the presence of the sun the day has been bright and beautiful.

Long and Christiansen returned at 7 o'clock last evening very much exhausted and (piite badly frost-
bitten in several jilaces. They had been unable to get into their sleeping-bag together, owing to its frozen and
cast-iron like state. Cape Viele had been reached on the evening of their first day, and the next morning
they rounded the cajjc and entered Alexandra Harbor. Finding no traces of game in this place, they crossed
near the he .1 of the deep bay of which Alexandra Harbor is an inlet, reaching Mount Carey, which they
ascended for the purpose of observing the surrounding country. They had an uninterrupted view of about
JO miles on the north side and 20 miles on the south side of Hayes Sound beyond the most distant point
seen by the Knglish Expedition of i875-'76. Three capes, heretofore unknown to explorers, were discov-
ered by them on the north side of the sound, the most westerly one of which was named by Lieutenant
Oreely, in honor of its discoverer, "Cape Long." The sound apjiears to be the narrowest opposite VVey-
precht Island and the widest about 15 miles farther to the westward. After an absence of over fourteen
hours they returned to Cape Viele, where their sledge and equipment had been left, to obtain rest and recu-
peration, which their prolonged exertions and ex[)osure made necessary. While here Long w;is taken sud-
denly ill, and for a brief period he despaired of ever again meeting his companions who were so anxiously

TH1<: LADY 1-UANKMN ISAY KXI'KDITION.

493

awaitinj,' liis return. Only one at a time was enabled to occupy the frozen sleepinj;-l)a^', and then it was
necessary to lie in a cramped |)()sitiun. l-onfj crawled into it, and the faithful native walked \\\t and down
through the deep snow until his comi)ani<)n shoulil feel well enouj^h to resume the march. In < un^cipient e
of the low temperature, l.onj^ knew that he could nut lonj; survive unless something was sjieedily dune, so
taking a few drops of the ammonia in a liheral allowance of hot rum, he soon felt gready relieved, antl at
once started homeward. They reached us after having tramped for fourteen hours from Cape Vit;le. No
game was seen, and only one tra< k, and that a fox, was met with. This is a bitter disapixintment to us, as
we had reason to expect small game at least from Alexandra Harbor, wliic h the I'.nglish reports say was
teeming with game. Lieutenant (1 .ely is going to send out another party in a few days, which will consist
of Long and myself, I having volunteered for this duty several weeks ago. We will probably be absent for
eight days, and may cross liuchanan Straits to Uache Island, if there is suflicient inihu;emenl to do so.

I'',lison says the spell is broken and that we may ex|)ect to get i)lenty of game in the future. I shot
three ptarmigan this morning; hOncc his remark. No portion of these biids except the feathers was wasted.
Lverything else — feet, heads, legs, anil intestines — was thrown into our stews and devoured without the
slightest feeling of repugnance.

Rice went across the islands to selerl a route to Rosse Hay. He contemplates a journey to liainl Inlet
in a few days to look for the meat abandoned there last fall, and by going directly across the island the dis
tance will be greatly shortened. He returned at 7 p. m. and rejiorted the route practicable, doming bai k
by the way of Cape Sabine enabled him to obtain a good observation of the condition of the souiul. He
says that the ice is nearly closed on this side, but thinks that a considerable space of open water exists on
the (ireenland shore. He saw a raven.

Hiederbick was promoted by Lieutenant Greely to hospital steward to-day. I lis appointment, of course,
is subject to the approval of the Secretary of War on our return. (Jn recommendation of l)r. I'avy, Kli.son's
ration of bread has been increased to sixteen ounces and his ration of meat to six ounces.

Salnniity, Mtinh 15, 1884. — Clear, calm weather; temperature at 6 a. ni., —30.8 [ —34.9° C.| ; at 1 1 a.
m., — 21.0 [ — 29.4° C.j, anil at 5 p. m., —31.3 [ — 35.2° <-' |. 1 hunted along the coast in the direction of
Cocked Hat Island, but saw nothing except a few ptarmigan tracks made several days ago — probably by
the birds which I shot yesterday. 'I'hose birds, by the way, netted us three pounds and ten ounces.
Lieutenant Kislingbury went out to the open water towards the northeast, and saw a bear track which he
judged to have been made four days ago, and he also saw five dovekies sporting in the water. This is
cheering news to us, and the future certainly looks much brighter and more hopeful than it has for a long
time.

The bread ration has been reduced to fifty ounces per week to each man, and will take effect on Monday
morning. It may yet be necessary to send a party to Cape I lawks to secure the small (juantity of bread that
was left by us there; but I fear that the foxes have eaten it all. Moldy and rotten as it was, if we had it
now it would make a welcome addition to our scanty store and would be eaten with avidity to prolong our
lives. We can live on i ur present ration little more than a month longer. The sound looks still more favot
able to-day than it did yesterday ; the pools near tlape Sabine are evidently closed, but a large water-sjiace
is observed in Kane Sea. A very enjoyable and palatable stew served for breakfast was made of tallow, salt
water, and crumbs of bread.

Sunday, Manh 16, 1884. — Clear and calm weather; temperature at 6 a.m., —34-7 [ — 37.i°C.|, and
at 5 p.m., —31.7 |— 35.4°C.J. In the sun it rose to —19.0 [ — 28.3''C.|. The sound looks more favorable
than ever for crossing to Littleton Island. If it continues to improve during the coming week as it has
during the week just passed, I think escape by this means is most probable. Long and Christiansen went
out to the open water this morning, taking with them the kayak. They returned with four dovekies and
report having seen and fired at a small seal. The dovekies are small but i)lump, and are dressed in their
winter suits — white plumage with black tips. In addition to the birds killed, the hunters say that several
others were seen, but, owing to their timidity, all efforts to secure them failed.

Matters now appear to be in a favorable state for our ultimate relief and safe return to our homes. We
hope soon to leave behind us these desolate and inhospitable regions and find a haven of rest under more
congenial skies. If the game of the country tails us, which 1 think is inijirobable, we still have hope of
assistance from Lieutenant Garlington and party, who I think must be at Littleton Island or in that vicinity.
Hut if we receive no assistance from this source, we can retreat across the sound, if it closes, when on our
last legs. If the meat abandoned in Baird Inlet last autumn can be obtained, we can survive until about

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494

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

May I. Long's success this morning in hunting has had an excellent effect on the si)irils of the men. During
the last few days very few subjects have been under discussion excei)t they bore a direct relation to foot!,
or would suggest it in some way. No other subject appears to possess half the attraction for our poor
hungry fellows that this one does.

Lieutenant Greely contemplates sending Jens and mysell to Rice's Straits in a few days to look for
seals and other game. I volunteered also to go down to Payer Harbor in (juest of game, and to observe
the chances for future operations there. I proposed to Lieutenant Greely this morning that we make an
attempt to catch shrimps to eke out the slender stock of supplies in our larder. If possible, I will prepare
a net for that purpose to morrow and give the matter further thought. I exposed a tempting bait on the
rocks in the vickiity of our hut as an inducement for the raven to visit us that we may effect his capture.
While on the hill this morning to observe the condition of the sound the sun burst forth in all his radiant
splendor, and for a long time I lingered among the rocks to enjoy the warmth and comfort which it brought.
To use the apt expression of Dr. Kane, " It was like bathing in perfumed water."

Monday, March 17, 1884. — Cloudy weather; temperature 6 a. m., —25.0 [—31.7° C], and at 5 p. m.,
— 23.5 [—30 8° C.J. The barometer is falling slowly. There are indications that a severe storm is now in
progress in the Sound, and the newly-formed ice will probably he entirely broken under its influence, thus
tlestroying our last chance of escape to Littleton Island. The cold weather during the past week had
aroused our most sanguine expectations of escape from this place, and now to realise the tlowafall of our
bright anticipations is hard indeed to bear. Jens shot a ptarmigan this morning which weighed twenty
ounces. The dovekies killed yesterday average in weight about one pound each.

Lieutenant Kislingbury and Jens visited the open water this morning, but returned without having killed
anything. They, however, saw a seal, but it was too far distant to admit of being shot. I designed and
made an a])paratus with which to catch shrimps. Rice, having volunteered to act in the capacity of shrimper,
will take the contrivance to Beebe I'oint to give it a thorough test. I spent some time on th.- large sledge
this morning to prepare it for immediate use when required. New drag-ropes were also supplied to it.

In overhauling the stores in the commissary room I found ten ounces of English chocolate which had
been overlooked in the darkness and confusion of last winter. It will not be i.ssued to the general mess,
but by tlie direction of Lieutenant Greely it has been given to one of the cooks to i.ssue to Ellison from time
to time as he may desire. His ration is now more than double that of the others, but it is the wish of all that
it should be so, for none can forget the devotion which the brave fellow has showed us in the past. He
maintains a wonderful control over his feelings and is ever cheerful. The ration of the i)arty is now eleven
to twelve ounces each per day — no more. A large pool of water has opened near the berg, and I would
not be suri-Tised if we were shooting seals there in a few days if the weather should prove agreeable. 15risk
wind, causing considerable drift, began at i p. m.

Tuesday, March 18, 1884. — Cloudy and stormy weather. The snow is being drifted in a blinding sheet
by a high northeast wind. The high, rocky point between our house and the sea protects us somewhat from
the full fury of the blast. Temperature at 6 a. m., —16.0 [ — 26.7°C.j; at 11 a. m., —7.0 [— 2i.7°C.];
and at 2 p. m., —15.0 [ — 26.1° C.]. The barometer has been nearly stationary all day notwithstanding the
tumult of the elements. I went on the hill during the forenoon and saw that a terrific storm was in progress
in the sound, and that the ice was suffering greatly in consequence. Lcng did not make his customary trip
to the open water to-day on account of the severity of the weather. The raven was observed to be inves-
tigating the fox-skin which I had placed on one of the rocks near the house yesterday, but being very wary
he escaped the load of shot intended for him.

Wednesday, March 19, 1884. — Cloudy, stormy, and generally disagreeable weather. A brisk westerly
wind, which at times came in gusts, hurled the snow in every direction with great violence, and kept us
confined closely to the house. Temperature at 6 a. m., — 16.3 [--26.8° C] ; at 1 1 a. m., —9.8 [—23.2° C] ;
and at 5 p. m., — 12.0 [ — 24.4° C.].

Lieutenant Lockwood appears to be improving in health and strength. If our daily ration was only
half the amount that a man would ordinarily consume in these regions, how well we could live through the
winter to summer and — relief In consequence t)f the rising barometer we entertain strong hopes of an
improvement in the weather to-morrow. This storm has broken a large space about " Expectation Berg,"
from which we may hope to secure many seals during the warm weather which will follow soon. It also
has dam.aged the floe greatly in the vicinity of Beebe Point, where a great sea is now rolling. A few days
ago this same place was covered with a vast ice-field.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

d95

I find that the tallow contained in the English bacon cans is in excess of the forty pounds of bacon as
marked on the outside of the cans. The recent reduction in our rations has once more revived the old topic
of conversation — food — and many hours are passed quite pleasantly in telling one another of the bills of fare
that we would order if we were in a civilized land. It is pitiful, sad, and aggravating to hear these things,
but when the relentless wolf, hunger, is gnawing in this terrible manner at our very life, what are we to do
or say ? Try as hard as we may to think of other things — to concentrate our minds on subjects more
elevating and instructive — we cannot do it for five minutes at one time without reverting again to that old
familiar theme — food.

Thursday, March 20, 1884. — Clear weather; temperature at 6 a. m., —20.5 [ — 29.2° C.]; at noon,
— 14.0 [—25.6° C.]; and at 5 p. m , —19.0 [ — 28.3° C.]. The barometer is about stationary. Fresh west
erly winds have caused much drifting to-day and rendered outside work very trying and disagreeable. Not-
withstanding the wind, Long went out to the open water in search of game. He saw two dovekies, neither
of which was secured. Rice went to Beebe Point to test the shrimp net or trap which I made for him a
few days ago. He found a very good place to lower the net into the water not far this side of the point.
At low tide quite a large opening is formed between the floe and the ice-foot, thus enabling the contrivance
to be lowered without cutting a hole. He succeeded in catching a'^out two ounces of the minute crusta-
ceans, and says that, with slight modifications of the trap, this new industry can be prosecuted very success-
fully. This opens to us another avenue of escape — another chance for life. How eagerly we grasp at even
the faintest hope of ultimate safety, and how anxious are we to leave this horrible place Where we have suf-
fered so much, met with so many disappointments, and even now are standing face to face with Death !

An owl and a raven were seen to-day ; the former was taking flight towards the north, and the latter
was scouting about the camp for scraps, of which there are none. Christiansen is not feeling well; his late
trip to the westward with Long has doubtless exhausted all his energies, and despondency seems to have
overcome his usually happy disposition. Linn also is evidently losing much of his vigor of mind. Since
the terrible exposure which he experienced last autumn, when on the Cape Isabella trip, he has not been
himself, and probably never will again fully recover his faculties. The doctor frequently remarks the great
change that hits taken place in him. Lieutenant Kislingbury was unfortunate enough to pierce one of his
fingers with a needle a few days ago. The injured member is now greatly swollen and inflamed, and Kis-
lingbury suffers severely. At my suggestion Lieutenant Greely has directed that in the future the kayak
will be conveyed to the open water each morning by some member of the party not otherwise employetl,
and thus lighten the labors of the hunters, who are doing all in their power to procure for us the means
of sustaining and prolonging life. Long, Christiansen, and Jens are doing all the hunting at present.

Friday, March 21, 1884. — The weather continues cloudy, and the fresh we.sterty wind of yesterday,
which caused so much disagreeable drift, has not yet abated ; temjierature at 6 a. m., —19.8 [ — 28.8° C] ;
at noon, —13.0 [ — 25.0° C ]; and at 5 p. m., —22.2 [—30.1° C.]. The barometer has again taken a down-
ward tendency, and we may expect a storm at any time. I made a light dip-net for Rice's use in shrimp-
ing; and I also devised a peculiar hook with which we will attempt to catch some fish in a few days.
Gardiner ha.s invented and manufactured an apparatus for capturing floating sea-weed. We contemplate
using this vegetation largely as an article of^food if it can be easily secured.

Lieutenant Kislingbury fainted this evening while having his finger lanced by the doctor. He was
soon restored, however, but for some time afterwards he felt very weak and sick. Ut>th the natives are very
much swollen about the face and limbs. Dr. Pavy thinks the difliculty is similar to that which I experi-
enced a few weeks ago from over-exertion.

Saturday, March 22, 1884. — The weather continues cloudy, and fresh westerly winds prevail; tempera-
ture at 6 a. m., —14.0 [—25.6° C.J, and at 6 p. m., —12.0 [ — 24.4° C.j. During the afternoon the wind
changed direction to the southeast and light snow began falling. Long and Jens went out to where the
open water had existed a few days ago and found it entirely closed by debris ice, which, having drifted
down from the north, had lodged at this point and was now thoroughly cemented together. For three
miles beyond the point which they had previously visited while hunting no signs of open water appeared.
In returning to camp they passed the large berg about which the pools had formed, but saw nothing of the
seals which we expected would make their a|)pearance there at an early date.

Rice was quite successful in his shrimp fishing to-day; he secured about six ounces and expects to get
at least a quart as the result of to-morrow's fishing. The long pole with hooks, prepared by Gardiner yes-

496

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

terday to fish out sea vegetation, is not just the thing reciuired, but with slight alterations Rice thinks it can
be adapted to the purpose for which it was intended. He reports that it is necessary to do the fishing at
low tide, as the crack through which the nets are lowered closes at high tide. The maximum depth of water
here is about thirty feet [9'"], and while the shrimps are collecting on the baits the nets rest quietly on the
bottom. These little animals are only about the s'«e of a half-grown fly. Near the jjlace where his nets
rest on the bottom of the sea, is a long white object resembling the rib of a whale, but Rice thinks it possi-
ble that it may be the limb of a petrified tree.

If the weather is favorable to morrow I am going to visit Rosse Bay for the purpose of hunting seals.
Lieutenant Greely said this evening tiiat if no g une were secured by the first week in April he would re-
duce our rations to a basis that would enable us to exist until May i. I made two nets fur Rice this
evening, using foxskins in both for bait. The dovekie legs are also excellent bait, and will be reserved for
this purpose in the future.

Su/ii/iiy, March 23, 1884. — Clear weather, with light westerly winds; temperature at 6 a.m., —25.5
[—31.9° C.J, and at 6 p. m., —22.8° [ — 30.4° C.J. The barometer fell slightly at an early hour this mcrning,
but during the rest of the day it remained stationary. The indefatigable worker. Rice, went down to his
shrimp nets at 3 a. m., but he did not succeed in getting many in consecjuence of a broken net guy, which
caused the trap to upset, thus spilling the contents. At dinner time he went down again, this time catching
about four pounds. We could not refrain from giving the dear fellow a hearty cheer after this achievement.

As contemplated yesterday, I crosseil the island to Rosse Bay, making the ascent on this side by the
glacier, and descending to the bay on the other by a deep ravine. I examined carefully the face of the
glacier at the head of the bay, but could find no evidence of its having kept the ice broken during the
winter. I had expected to find pools of water near its front, through which the seals could crawl to the
floe .above. The ice, of course, had been broken by the steady advance of the glacier, but the pools of
water so formed must have closed immediately. On my return to the island I visited all the bergs and
places at which I thought it likely a seal or walrus would appear, but nothing of that nature was met
with. All the northern half of the bay is a level plain of new ice with an occasional small berg, while the
southern side is thickly studded with large icel)ergs and huge masses of paleocrystic ice. While on this floe
a high wind prevailed, which eddied about me with great violence. In following the tortuous windings of
the ravine to the summit of the island, I escaped the full force of the storm, but in crossing the diviile, I
was enveloped in a blinding drift, and could .scarcely find my way. At one time I thought of surrendering,
so dense was the cloud, and so weak had I become from the unusual exertion, but I made another eftbrt,
and in a short time was walking down the slope on the other side. In this struggle my nose, face, and
fingers were quite badly frost-bitten. I saw the tracks of a fox and ptarmigan in Rosse Bay.

Long went out to the open water, but he saw nhthing but one dovekie. Bender has covered himself
with glory by making a large fish- hook which possesses all the advantages of any that can be bought. The
use of wood for fuel has been discontinued, and all our cooking for the present will be done with alcohol.

Monday, March 24, 1884. — Weather clear; light westerly wind. Temperature at 5 a. m., —23.0
[—30.6° C.J, and at 2 p. m., —21.0 [—29.4° C.J. Exposed in the sun at 1 1 a. m. the thermometer registered
—6.0 [ — 21.1° C.J. Rice made three trips to the shrimping grounds to-day, which resulted in adding about
seven pounds of shrimps to our supplies. Nothing could be more gratifying to us than this success in fishing,
which gives us a firm grasp on the future.

A terrible scene occurred in our wretched hut during the morning. While preparing breakfast (tea)
the cooks had forgotten to remove the bundle of rags from the ventilators in the roof, and the fumes thrown
olTby the alcohol lamps, being confined to the small breathing space, soon produced asphyxia. Biederbick,
one of the cooks, was the first to succumb to its effects, and Israel immediately afterwards became insensible.
At the suggestion of Gardiner, all the rest of us rushed for the door, and the plugs were at once removed
from the roof and the lami)s extinguished. By prompt attention Dr. Pavy succeeded in reviving Israel and
Biederbick. Those who went outside were less fortunate than those who fainted in their bags. As soon as
they came in contact with the pure outside air all strength departed and they fell down on the snow in an
unconscious state. In consequence of the absence of all animation many of us were frost-bitten — Lieutenant
Greely and myself quite severely. The lives of several of the men were probably saved through the noble
efforts of Gardiner, who, though weak and sick, did all in his power to get us in the hut. Lieutenant Greely
said that when he came out and saw me lying on my back in the snow, with my face perfectly rigid and
white, and to all appearances stiffly frozen, he thought me dead. Gardiner said that I appeare 1 to suffer

THE LADY FRA.NKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

497

most, and that I fell not less than a dozen times. I would recover, stagger to my feet, and immediately fall
fainting again. Lieutenant Greely, Conneli, and myself were affected more than any of the others, although
all fainted except Pavy, Frederick, Elison, Salor, Henry, and the two Eskimo. The doctor and Frederick
worked like Trojans to assist those who were less fortunate than themselves. During the excitement of the
hour about half a pound of bacon was stolen from Lieutenant Greely's mess, and as soon as the fact became
known great indignation was expressed that in our midst lived a man with nature so vile and corrupt — so
utterly devoid of all feelings of humanity — as to steal food from his starving companions when they were
thought to be dying. A deed so contemptible and heartless could not long remain concealed from those
who had been injured. We were not disappointed in the discovery that Henry was the thief. He had lit-
erally bolted the bacon, and his stomach was overloaded to such a degree that, in its enfeebled state, it could
not retain this unusual quantity of food, and his crime was thus detected. Jens afterwards reported having
seen him commit the theft, and illustrated by signs his manner of doing it. Threats of lynching were pri-
vately spoken of, but no public accusations have yet been made against the perpetrator of this foul deed.
The conduct of this fiend Henry, who, clothed in the garb of innocence, deliberately appropriates to himself
the food belonging to his comrades, and at a time when he supposed them dying, is sufficient reason for me
to lose all confidence in mankind.

On account of our sufferings during the morning two and one-half ounces of bread were issued to each
man in addition to the regular allowance. A fox track having been seen near the house, Jens at once vol-
unteered to follow it. Near Cape Sabine he overtook the little animal, but it escaped. Fox, bear, and seal
skins (the latter oil-tanned) are being used for shrimp bait; seal thongs and dovekie legs are also used largely
lor the same purpose. I shot a white fox at 8.30 this evening, which weighed five pounds and two ounces,
net. The intestines were divided, as heretofore, between the messes. I can never forget this terrible day,
and how near we were to a horrible death.

Tueiday, March 25. — This has been a clear and beautiful day, with light westerly winds ; temperature at
6 a. m., —28.0 [ — 33.3° C], and at 5 p. m., —12.0 [ — 24.4° C.]. The thermometer, exposed directly to the
sun's rays at noon, registered —0.5 [—18.1° C.]. Rice and Whisler went down to the shrimping grounds,
and on their return set a net at the large berg. Owing to a movement in the ice the nets had been over-
turned and the baits lost, consequently no shrimps were obtained. In the evening, however. Rice caught
nearly four pounds. Schneider prepares the bait by sewing seal or other skins over large stones ; these
placed in the bottom of the nets serve as a weight to sink them and at the same time they form a surface on
which the little crustaceans can collect. Long and Christiansen went down to the open water, but saw no
game. They report, however, the existence of two " blow-holes " through the floe near Cape Sabine. Shells
and mollusks were scattered about the openings to bear testimony to the fact that seals or walrus had been
visitors there. If we had a few days of good weather it is more than probable that we would secure some
game. Christiansen, who accompanied Long to the open water to-day, returned greatly exhausted and
nearly unconscious, having been supported and half carried by the latter all the way from Cape Sabine.
Had it not been for Long's timely .assistance Christiansen must have perished from the effects of the low
temperature.

Henry opened his own case this morning by protesting his innocence, but he was at once confronted with
the evidence collected last evening, and all the disgusting details of his theft were brought out. Jens, in his
imperfect English, aided by signs, again illustrated to us the manner in which the act had been accomplished.
Biederbick and Frederick told how they had observed that he ate none of the ration issued to him yesterday,
and testified to having seen the large quantity of bacon which he vomited into a can last evening. The
testimony of others was now given, but that of Jens and the two others mentioned was sufficient to convict
him. Long saw him steal and drink an extra ration of the rum which was issued to us yesterday to coun-
teract the effects of our terrible exposure. Ellis now reports him as having stolen canned goods at Fort
Conger, and Conneli related how he had seen Henry in a very suspicious and compromising situation last
fall; and how he had afterwards observed an empty roast-beef can in his possession, long before any of the
roast beef had been issued. Rice stated his opinion very clearly, and suggested that violent measures would
be appropriate under the circumstances. Lieutenant Greely requested the individual opinion of each man,
all of whom, without a single exception, were unanimous in the expression of their belief that he was guilty
and that punishment should be meted out to him in. proportion to his crime. He then placed Henry in
arrest. He is not to leave his bag without permission, and in no case will he go out of doors without being
accompanied by some other member of the party. He still asserts that he is innocent of the charge brought
against him, but the evidence brought to bear on the case is conclusive and will admit of no doubts,
H. Mis. 393 32

1 .

498

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY EXPEDITION.

,'i

xmB

;IH

The shrimps are now mixed with pemmican in the stews, and are considered quite palatable. Bieder-
bick was relieved from the duties of cook this morning and I.inn was detailed to take his place. Last
evening Ellis recjuePted to be allowed to "fill up" by eating tea leaves. It is needless to say that this rather
extraordinary request was not granted by Lieutenant Gieely. This evening, in violation of strict orders, he
was detected in the "ct of taking a sly smoke. Lieutenant Greely's hands are frozen to a greater depth than
they were at first supposed to be; they are much blistered, and he can scarcely use them. My own, being
very sore, kept me awake a great deal last evening, but they will not interfere with my duties. The snow
has been removed in several places from the boat, and holes to admit the light cut through. Over the open-
ings thus made white canvas has been fastened, and we are now, for the first lime since entering the hut,
enabled to distinguish faces across the room without the aid of artificial light.

IVeifnes day, March 26, 1884. — During the early morning the weather was calm and cloudy; at 9 a. m.
a slight breeze from the west was perceptible, and snow began fallinf^. At 11 a. m. the wind changed
direction to southeast and increased to a gale. It was the most violent storm of the season, and we trembled
for the safety of our shelter. I was out hunting when it began, and so great w.^.s the velocity that I was
knocked down by the first shock. My weakness will probably account for my inability to stand up against
Its terrific force. Temperature at 7 a. m., — lo.o [—23.3° C.]; at 1 1 a. m. it had risen to zero [—17.8° C],
and at 4 p. m. it had fallen to —2.6 [—18.9° C.].

Rice reports having seen a ptarmigan track on Cemetery Ridge. He hunted unsuccessfully in that
vicinity for some time, as did Long and myself. Rice's efforts at shrimp fishing did not meet with flattering
success to-day, though success was deserved. With a total disregard for personal safety he went down to
visit the nets through the howling storm, and returned utterly exhausted. At the berg only a few speci-
mens of Crustacea were obtained, and ?t the main fishery nothing of importance was captured. Bender,
Schneider, and Whisler made for him a long spear with an attachment in the form of a hook, which can
be used for collecting sea- weed (kelp) from the bottom of the sound.

The English chocolate which I found a few days ago, and which had been reserved for the sole use of
brave Elison, was missed this morning from the place where it had been stored for safety. Circumstances
point strongly to Henry as the guilty party. It was discovered to-day that Ellis had been smoking roots of
saxifrage in violation of orders. Lieutenant Greely's hands are badly frost-bitten. Shrimps combined with
tallow make a very good stew. Lieutenant Greely publicly announced the appointments of Sergeant Fred-
erick and Hospital Steward Biederbick.

Ihiirsday, March 27, 1884. — Weather fair and calm; temperature at 7 a. m., —12.0 [ — 24.4° C ]; at
nodh, — lo.o 1—23.3° C.J, and at 3 p. m., —9.0 [ — 22.8° C.j. To our intense relief, the gale subsided at
midnight. Lieutenant Greely to-day celebrated the fortieth anniversary of his birth.

Long and Jens went out to the open water this morning accompanied by Salor, who carried the kayak.
The latter returned in about two hours with fifteen dovekies which Long had .shot, and which Jens secured
with the aid of his kayak. Lieutenant Kislingbury and Connell at once went out with more ammunition,
and soon returned with eighteen more birds. Long was the hero of the hour, and probably the proudest
moment of his life was when he threw these few birds at the feet of Lieutenant Greely as a birthday offering.
Cheer after cheer was given the hunters, and general good feeling prevailed. In value, each dovekie is
equal to about one pound of meat. This appears to be the turning point in our fortunes. Rice caught
about twelve pounds of shrimp, but to accomplish this result he made four trips to the fishing grounds. The
legs heads, wings, and feet of the dovekies are being largely used for bait.

Henry asked Lieutenant Greely to be allowed to perform some share of the daily routine in the hut,
and on being refused said: "You will kill me with injustice if you do not." Crocodile tears to create
sympathy came at his bidding, and flowed freely from the eyes which, a few days ago, looked on the
wretched condition of his companions without remorse or pity. He has been socially ostracized. Snow
began falling at 7 p. m. Jens was taken with a slight illness this evening, but speedily recovered under the
careful attention of Dr. Pavy, who administered aromatic spirits of ammonia and rum. Christiansen asked
to go out to the open water with Long to-morrow, but being refused permission on account of his enfeebled
condition, he worked himself into a towering passion, and cursed promiscuously in broken English. Ellis
was again d .'tected in the act of eating stearine, and to prevent a repetition of this violation of orders he
was placed under guard. His entreaties and promises were made with so much earnestness and sincerity,
that he was finally released.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

499

Lieutenant Greely has decided to allow Rice and Frederick to go to Baird Inlet to secure the meat
abandoned last autumn when Elison was so badly frozen. They have volunteered for the service, and will
probably start about April 8. Israel tells me that he detected the doctor in the act of stealing bread from
Elison's store. I took an inventory of the provisions this morning. The morning stew of 36 ounces of
bread, 12 ounces of tallow, and 7 ounces of shrimps, made a highly gratifying meal for us. The cooks arc
using 2]4 ounces of alcohol per man each day for fuel. Schneider is at present doing well, and trying to
redeem himself in the eyes of his companions for his misdeeds of the past. Lieutenant Clreely contemplates
sending out the wall-tent to be pitched near the open water. The kayak will be kept inside this tent to
avoid the necessity of carrying it back and forth.

FrUny, March 28, 1884. — A beautiful bright day, light westerly winds; temperature at 7 a. m., —24.0
[—31.1° C.J; at 4.30 p. m., —18.0 [—27.8° C.]. Exposed in the sun at noon the thermometer recorded
+ 5.0 [— is-o'C.]. I went down to Payer Harbor this morning by crossing over the island. I took an
aneroid barometer with me for the purpose of determining the altitude of the island ; this I found to be
1,900 feet [579""]. I experienced great difficulty in clambering down the abrupt cliffs overlooking the harbor,
but at last I accomplished it in safety, bearing with me, however, several bruises as mementoes. I found
many traces of ancient Eskimo encampments, and the remains of a broken sledge of bone with wooden
runners. These interesting relics were carefully placed together in a conspicuous position where they can
be found later. As it is Lieutenant Greely's intention to move camp to this harbor before warm weather,
I selected a site between two small lakes for our encampment. The record cache is in excellent condition,
no portion of the cairn having fallen.

There is a ?arge pool of water lying between Brevoort and Stalknecht Islands which was probably
caused by the swiftness of the eddying currents just at that point. I observed two small " blow-holes " in
the floe, which have been recently made by seals. From Brevoort Island I followed the open water to a
point just north of Cape Sabine and then turned homeward. The open water washes against the east side
of Brevoort Island. On the west side the ice is intact. During my tramp I saw several dovekies and fresh
fox tracks. The sledge tracks which we made across Payer Harbor last fall are quite distinctly marked in
the hard snow and easily followed. This fact gives me hope that Rice and Frederick will be able to follow
their old tracks in Baird Inlet to the place where they abandoned the meat. Jewell started out with the
kayak this morning, but being too weak to proceed with it Lieutenant Kislingbury relieved him of his burden.
Long shot fourteen dovekies to-day, and Rice, the persistent and tireless worker, captured twenty-seven
pounds of shrimps.

The tent was taken out of the house, but it is so full of ice that it will be spread on the rocks for a few
days with the hope that it may be made lighter by evaporation. Christiansen shot a ptarmigan on Cemetery
Ridge this morning. He returned immediately to the hut thoroughly exhausted with the exertion of walk-
ing. He seems very despondent, and says that he will never again return to his home in Proven. His
companion, Jens, is in excellent spirits and fair physical condition, and is very hopeful of the future. Lieu-
tenant Greely notified me that from Sunday next only four ounces of bread per man would be issued daily.
The meat ration, however, will be increased slightly. Lieutenant Lockwood appears to be growing much
stronger. The evening readings, which have been a source of so much gratification to us in the past, were
discontinued this evening owing to an inclination on the part of some to sleep rather than hear them.

While on the summit of the island to-day I had an excellent view of Smith Sound and Kane Sea. The
former is free of all ice near the channel except " brash", or that of a few days' formation, and any vessel
could steam up to Cape Sabine without difficulty or danger. The water touches Isabella and appears to reach
to the Greenland shore. I am of the opinion that next summer will be equally as favorable for navigating
the waters to Lady Franklin Bay as was the summer of 1881.

Saturday, March 29, 1884. — A gale rose suddenly at about 8 a. m., and continued without interruption
during the entire day. It was accompanied by a heavy fall of snow, and in consequence the drifting was
heavy. Temperature at 6 a.m., —4.5 [—20.3° C.]; at 9 a.m., zero [ — 17.8° C.J; at noon, +1.0 [—17.2° C.J;
and at 2 p. m., — 5.0 [—20.6° C.J. Our breakfast consisted of 4J4 ounces of bread, i ounce of bacon, and
6 ounces of shrimps to each man. No tea was served and its absence was not considered a serious loss.
For dinner we had each iJ^S ounces of dovekie, i ounce of bacon, 2^ ounces of bread, and 11 ounces of
shrimps. This made a most delightful stew, and its solid contents were rather more than we had been
accustomed to eat for both meals. Although this makes only three full (?) meals (with the shrimps), we are
already beginning to note a favorable change in our condition.

! ;

500

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Rice shot a ptarmigan this evening, and reports having seen five more on the hill near Cemetery Ridge.
He caught shrimps to the amount of twelve i)ounds, I^ong went out to the open water, hut the storm drove
him back withui an hour. He cached the kayak on a floe. We discontinued using alcohol as fuel and
substituted stearine, of which we have a moderate supply. Recently we have all complained of feeling
chilly, and some have suggested that it is due to the late change in our mode of living. Lieutenant (Ireely
says if we are successful in procuring game before May, he will send me out in command of a party during
that month to explore Hayes Sound and the adjacent country. Israel and Frederick have been named as
the two who will accompany me ; they, as well as several others, having volunteered for the duty.

Our bread ration has now been reduced to 3^ ounces per day. The rations of Long and Jens (the
hunters) have been increased to five ounces of dovekie meat per day. Poor suffering Fllison! This morning
he turned to the doctor and said: " My toes are burning dreadfully, and the soles of my feet are itching in
a very uncomfortable manner; can you not do something to relieve this irritation?" He little dreams that
he has neither toes nor feet; they having sloughed off in January,

Suiiitiiy, March 30, 1884. — The gale continued all last night with relentless fury, but at 4 p. m. a slight
lull occurred which enabled us to heave one huge sigh of relief, and then it began again as strong and hard
as ever. Temperature at i p. m., —3.0 [—19.4° C.]; at 5 p. m., —5.5 [ — 20.8° C] ; inside the hut, +20.5
( — 6.4° C.J. When the lull in the storm occurred this evening I started out in search of game, but was
almost immediately driven back to the house for shelter. The storm has broken all the newly-formed ice
in the vicinity of Cape Sabine, and the water has encroached considerably on Buchanan Straits. Great
an.xicty had been felt concerning the fate of the kayak which Long left yesterday on the floe near the open
water. To (juiet the fears which had arisen that it had been washed away, Long tramped down to the spot
and found it all right. The barometer is fluctuating greatly; in fact since the beginning of the storm it has
been very unsteady. Ralston's finger has improved so'much that he is now pronounced by the doctor to
be in condition for duty.

Monday, March 31, 1884. — The gale continued all night with terrific violence, but at about noon to-day
it lulleil for a little while. During this brief respite it seemed to gain additional strength, as the wind blew
with redoubled fury a short time afterwards. Temperature at noon, +3.0 [— i6.i°C.]. During the lull this
morning Long went down and brought the kayak nearer to the land. He reports having seen many dove-
kies, and that the white caps were rolling in and breaking over the edge of the floe. The water is gradually
encroaching on the floe, and is now opposite Beebe Point. No ice of any considerable importance was
observed in the water. Jens saw two ptarmigan, but could get a shot at neither.

Christiansen complained this evening of feeling faint and sick. A drink of rum was administered, which '
seemed to restore him somewhat. Frederick was also ill — too ill, in fact, to perform the duties o£ a cook.
Schneider very kindly volunteered to take his place for the present. The stew this evening was very thin
and unsatisfactory, but it was accejited with a very good grace by .ill. The temperature inside the house
this morning was +18.0 [—7.8° C.]. This is the lowest we have experienced since the house was banked
last fall. I suppose it is owing to the disagreeable weather. We have been very unsociable and unpleasant
towards one another to-day, and, to augment our trouble irritable remarks have been made by those wlio
should know better. The barometer has been steady, or nearly so, notwithstanding the storm.

Friday, April i, 1884. — The gale of yesterday continued until about 4 a. m., when it subsided. Weather
cloudy; light westerly winds; temperature at 5 a. m., —5.5 [ — 20.8° C] ; at 11 a. m., +6.0 [—14.4° C.];
at 2 p. m., -f 10. o [—12.2° C] ; and at 3.45 p. m., —2.5 [ — 19.2° C.J. Rice made four trips to the shrimp-
ing grounds, capturing thirty pounds of shrimps. Long killed eleven dovekies and saw four seals, one of
which he fired at, but unfortunately mi.ssed. He also saw a large walrus on a drifting floe near Cape Sabine.

Having reduced several rifle-balls to fine pieces, I reloaded them, with the view of utilizing them as
shot. Finding a brace of ptarmigan, I fired twice at only ten paces without injuring either. As a substi-
tute for shot-gun cartridges they certainly are not a success. During my tramp this morning I found many
meat caches and circles of stones, which indicated that the Eskimo — perhaps ages ago — had pitched their
tents on this spot during the summer month.s. I also found the skull of a walrus, which bore traces of great
antiquity, and also another bone, which I was unable to identify, owing to its friable and decomposed state.
It is very probable that the natives killed the walrus here only when it crawled to the rocks to bask in the
sunshine. Then it could have been captured easily by an expert native with his tried weapons of bone.

This is one of the worst days that I have passed in this place. I am so weak from the effect of our
long fast that I can do little better than reel along like a drunken man. Our wan, pinched faces and hollow,
lusterless eyes are turned wistfully towards the southern horizon in hope of succor. Will it ever come to

THE LADY FBANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

501

us, afler this long period of anxious watching and waiting ? I am afraid it will not. It is with the utmost
difficulty that we can persuade ourselves to move about or, in fact, to do anything requiring physical effort.
Even the moral powers appear to resist the employment of physical energies. No tea was served for break-
fast, a thin, watery stew being substituted.

IVfJnesiiay, April 2, 1884. — Clear weather; brisk westerly winds; temperature, —13.0 [ — 25.00 C.];
nearly stationary all day. Rice and Frederick remained at the fishing grounds for seven hours, and during
that time they caught thirty-two pounds of shrimps. The drift ice had crowded down again from the north,
completely filling the water spaces, and thus preventing the hunters from seeing any game. The great water
channel, which two days ago was entirely devoid of drift ice, is now covered by a grinding pack. The
absence of frost, smoke, or vapor, in this low temperature, leads me to believe that the sound is entirely
choked by ice.

Frederick was relieved from the duties of cook, and Schneider has been detailed to fill the ottice thus
vacatetl. During the entire winter Frederick has performed the irksome duty of cook with fidelity and
untiring energy, and he is deserving of more praise than is in my power to bestow. Christiansen has had his
ration increased to the same amount as that received by the hunteis ; still he does not improve perceptibly.
He acts in a very sulky and angry manner because he is not given more food; but he has always been so
faithful and so devoted to the interests of the expedition that we should not complain of him now, when it
is hunger and not the man that speaks.

Notwithstanding the fact that 3 ounces of dovekie, 2 ounces of bacon, 2^ ounces of bread, and about
12 to 15 ounces of shrimps are being consumed daily by each member of the expedition everybody is
ravenously hungry, and all are growing daily weaker. The shrimps are of very little benefit; they possess
little or no nutriment, and in fact they serve only to fill the stomach. In no case have they ever alleviated
the pangs of hunger. We are all longing for a thick, rich stew of the flesh and blood of a seal, to strengthen
and restore our reduced and emaciated bodies to their former vigorous condition. Food ! food ! is tlie
constant cry of the hungry — the continual topic of conversation among us! This gnawing hunger has
driven from our minds all other thoughts and feelings; and, like animals, we have little left except the instinct
for eating. Flven the passions peculiar to men in vigorous health are dormant and forgotten in our weakness
and the craving for food.

Thursday, April ^, 1884. — Clear weather; light westerly winds; temperature at 6 a. m., — 16.5 [—26,7"
C.]; at noon, — 90 [ — 22.8° C], and at 6 p. m., —14.0 [ — 25.6° C.]. At noon another thermometer,
exposed in the sun, registered ■^- 15.0 [—9.4° C.]. Rice went down at an early hour to the fishing grounds
and remained working faithfully all day. Owing to a scarcity of bait he succeeded in capturing only 15
pounds. Salor, who assisted him on this occasion, will hereafter take charge of this important work, to
enable Rice to make preparations for his contemplated journey to Baird Inlet.

Long and Jens again went out to their old hunting grounds. This time they found that the lane had
opened slightly, and in it they saw a seal, at which they fired, but unfortunately missed. They also saw
three dovekies and the tracks of a bear. While returning from the open water. Long shot two ptarmigan on
Cemetery Ridge. Lieutenant Kislingbury also went to the open water to-day, but he returned empty handed.

While hunting over the peninsula today 1 found several bones and another walrus skull, which denoted
extreme age. From the traces of the Eskimo which I have observed on this island, I have formed the
opinion that their visits here were made at a date some considerable time prior to their wanderings about
Discovery Harbor. Everything that we have found in this vicinity bears marks of greater antiquity than
any of the relics discovered in the vicinity of Fort Conger. Christiansen is now given half a dovekie each
day more than the others.

Friday, April ^, 1884. — At 5 a. m. the weather was clear and calm, and the temperature at the same
time was— lo.o [— 23.3''C.] In an hour the sky had clouded and the temperature changed to -f8.o
[—13.3° C.]. At the same time the wind rose and blew briskly from the west. Snow began falling at noon.
Long and Jens went as usual to the open water, aftd I tramped to Cape Sabine in search of game. During
the night the channel had cleared out again, and there is now an extensive water space between Cairn
Point and Cape Sabine. The storm was so violent that I turned back when in the vicinity of Payer Harbor.
I saw a bear track which was made not more than two days ago. This same track was also seen by Jens
and Long much farther north. The hunters also saw a seal and several dovekies, but they were not fortu-
nate enough to capture anything. With even an inferior bait, Salor was remarkably successful in catching
fifteen pounds of shrimps to-d^ay. I purpose to make a trip in a few days to the valley west of Rice Straits,
with the view of ascertaining if game may be procured there. Bender is again complaining with soreness

502

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

J « i^

of his lungs. The rations for Lockwood and Linn have been increased by giving each one-fourth of a
dovekie daily.

Saturday, April i^, 1884. — Clear weather and light westerly winds; temperature at 6 a. m., — lo.o
[ — 23.3° C.]; at 12 m., —6.0 [ — 21.1° C.]; and at 4 p. m., —13.0 ( — 25,0° C.]. Christiansen, who had been
ailing for some time, died at 9 a. m. The exposure incident to the trip which he made with Long to Mount
Carey last month is the immediate cause of his death, but the primary reason is patent to all — starvation
claimed him as a victim. On his return from the trip mentioned his system was so far reduced that his
meager ration was not sufficient to recuperate him. At 2 p. ni. his remains were interred on Cemetery Ridge,
and a military salute was fired over his grave. Jens, his dusky companion, did not display the stoicism that
is usually attributed to the people of his race, but, on the contrary, he manifested feelings of deep and heart-
felt emotion. The " Little Man," as he is called, speaks hopefully of the future, and recommends Eskimo
Point as a most desirable hunting-ground.

Although they worked faithfully, no game was seen by the hunters to-day. I worked nearly all day to
get Rice and Frederick ready for the field. They start for Baird Inlet to-morrow morning, weather permit-
ting. Their ration will be six ounces of bread, eight ounces of pemmican, and six ounces of alcohol (the
latter for fuel) each per day.

I fear that Lockwood and Linn will soon follow the faithful Eskimo who has just died. They cannot
or will not eat the shrimps any more, and, though they are given an extra > allowance of dovekie, it is not
sufficient to restore their depleted strength. Heaven help them, we can do no more.

Jens is to receive a double ration until further notice, which we hope may counteract to some extent
the gloomy impressions made on his mind by the death of his associate. The death of Christiansen was
very sudden and unexpected; he had wandered out of doors during the night and returned to his bed with-
out assistance; he ate his breakfast only two hours before he passed away, and no one thought him in any
immediate danger until a few minutes previous to this event. He w.is a noble and faithful fellow, and it is
consoling to know that his end was painless. Whisler cut two holes through the boat and covered them
with canvas. The light furnished by these openings will do us good, and it will also be the means of saving
much fuel. Salor caught twelve pounds of shrim[js with the skins and skeletons of two dovekies.

Sunday, Aprild, 1884. — Calm and cloudy weather; temperature at 4 a. m., — lo.o [ — 23.3° C] ; at
3.30 p. m., -|-2.o [ — 16.7° C.]; and at 7 p. m., —8.0 [—22.2 C.]. The traveling equipment intended for
Rice and Frederick was hauled this morning by Kislingbury, Ellis, Whisler, and myself to the summit of the
island on which we are living. The small sledge was used, and we were forced to ascend to the summit by
way of the glacier near the shrimping grounds, which, owing to its steep and slippery surface, made our work
very severe and laborious. We have never, until to-day, realized the full extent of our weakness. This trial
has fully convinced us of the utter hopelessness of escape to Litdeton Island, because of our reduced state.
Four hours and ten minutes of steady traveling were required to attain the top of the island, and one hour
and thirty minutes were consumed in returning to the hut. . Light snow fell during the morning.

The hunters were again unsuccessful at the open water ; they saw a seal and two dovekies, but unfortu-
nately took none. The bird of ill-omen — the raven — is now seen almost every day. We would consider it
a bird of paradise if we could introduce one of them in our thin stews. Salor caught fifteen pounds of shiimps,

Linn — our genial comrade, our tried and trusted friend — passed quietly away at 7 p. m. How indiffer-
ently we regard anything of this nature now ; what stoicism is shown when the skeleton hand of Death
removes from our midst one of our intimate companions. But could it be otherwise? Our own condition
is so wretched, so palpably miserable, that death would be welcomed rather than feared. During the winter
Linn had been rather petulant and irritable; but this was not, however, his natural disposition. It was
owing to the terrible exposure to which he was subjected while on the Cape Isabella trip in November last.
His sufferings there affected his mind to a certain degree ; but we will remember him only as he was when
at Fort Conger — a noble, generous-hearted, faithful man; a friend whom one could admire, respect, and
love. After his death Rice and Ralston slept soundly in the same sleeping-bag with the corpse. This fact
alone will demonstrate how utterly indifferent we are to the presence of death.

As contemplated. Rice and Frederick departed on their hazardous mission at 9.15 p.m. Farewells
were uttered with husky voices and tremulous lips; the silent prayers of those who remained went with them,
and eyes to which tears were strangers now became dimmed from emotion. Emaciated, weak, and
despondent, they take their lives in their hands and go out alone in the bleak, dreary wastes of an arctic
desert to suffer mental tortures indescribable, and to endure famine and to face the frosts of winter to save
or prolong the lives of their comrades.

THE LAnY FUAXKIJN HAY KXPKDITION.

503

Afoiuiay, April i, 1884. — Snow lias been falling heavily all day ; ralm weather; temiieratiiro at T. a.m.,
—8.7 [ — 22.6° C.]; ami at 1 p.m., +j.o [-16.7* C.].

Poor Linn was buried at 10 a. ni. Lieutenant Kislingbury s<oo|)ed out a j;rave for him on Cemetery
Ridge. After the first six inches 1 152"""] from the surface, the gravel was frozen as hard as marble, so the
grave was necessarily a shallow one. It was all that eight of us could do to haul the body to the ridge on
the large sledge. The weight of the corpse was trifling as < ompared with that of an ordinary si/cd num.
He was literally a skeleton.

I shot two ptarmigan this morning with one shot. I saw another binl which was Hying to the west-
ward over our camp uttering hoarse croaks as it went. The cry was not familiar to me. Hiederbick diluted
a (juantity of alcohol, antl with the addition of some slight flavoring made an excellent "moonshine" drink,
which imparted life and warmth to the poor fellows for a brief time at least. Lieutenant (Ireely contem-
])lates making jieriodical issues of this drink on the recommendations (jf Dr. Pavy. Owing to the severity
of the snow-storm the hunters ilid not go out; the shrimper alwj did not face the storni to-day. We fear
that Lieutenant Lockwood and Jewell will soon follow Linn; they are both very weak and are failing
rapidly. Jens is in good spirits and jjredicts success in hunting when we are blessed with warmer weather.
Several are writing their wills, as well as letters to their friends.

Tufiday, April 9,, 1884. — All of last night and throughout the entire ilay the snow has fallen heavily
and high winds have prevailed. In consequence of the great velocity of the wind, the drift was at times
terrific. Our brave companions, Rice and Frederick, must be suflering greatly from the eftects of this storm.
Temperature at 7 a. m., + 13.5 [—10.3° C.]; and at 3 p.m., —5.0 [—20.6° C.J.

Lieutenant Lockwood fell fainting in the passage-way this evening, and much difficulty was exjierienced
in resuscitating him. Jewell is nearly helpless, and his mind has lost much of its vigor; he will be a total
wreck in a few days. "Moonshine" was again issued to-day, and with an effect equally as satisfactory as
yesterday. Salor says that he is no longer able to walk to the shrimping grounds, and 1 have undertaken
to relieve him from his arduous duties. After dinner I went down through the howling storm to the fishing
|)lace, returning at nine o'clock with fifteen jjounds of shrimps. The mode of procuring these crustaceans
is as follows: An iron barrel hoop is placed inside the open end of a gunny sack, and such bait as we could
use was fastened in the bottom ; the sack or net was then lowered through the ice-hinge or tidal cr.-n k to
the bottom of the sea (about 20 feet [6"'] at low tide), where myriads of these minute animals collected on
the surface of the baits. A haul of these nets is made every few minutes, and amounts varying from two
or three ounces to as many pounds are secured each time. The fishing place is about one mile east from
Camp Clay, near Beebe Cache.

Wednesday^ April <), 1884. — The storm has not yet abated; temperature at 7 a.m., —7.0 [—21.7'' C],
and at 11 a. m., -fi.5 [—16.9° C.]. Lieutenant Lockwood became unconscious at an early hour this
morning, and at 4.20 p.m. he breathed his last. His end was painless and without a struggle. This will
be a sad and unexpected blow to his family, who evidently idolize him. To me it is also a sorrowful event;
we had been companions during long and eventful excursions towards the north and towards the west, and
my feelings towards him were akin to that of a brother. Biederbick and myself straightened his limbs and
prepared his remains for burial. It was the saddest duty that I have ever yet been called upon to perform,
and I trust I may never experience the like again. Jewell's condition is about the same as yesterday. Jens'
extra ration has been discontinued for the present. " Moonshine " was again issued to-day.

The order of August, 1 88 1, relieving Lieutenant Kislingbury, at his own request, from duty with the
expedition, was revoked to-day by Lieutenant Greely. On restoring him to duty Lieutenant Greely
eulogized him in the highest terms for his efficient assistance in the retreat from Fort Conger, and expressed
a wish that their future intercourse might be of the most agreeable nature.

I had Ellis prepare a shrimp-net with which Whisler attempted to fish at a small island near the camp.
Ellis was again detected eating stearine, and as a punishment for his offense his dinner was denied him.
He wept and begged in the most abject manner for a remission of his sentence, and Lieutenant Greely
finally modified it so that only half his tea was taken from him. Jens shot at a ptarmigan this morning, but
for some inexplicable reason the bird escaped injury. Owing to the excessive weakness of nearly all the
men. Dr. Pavy has volunteered to cut all the ice required for cooking purposes. Bender is again complaining
with chest trouble. I took an inventory of the provisions this morning with the following result: Meat of
all kinds, 156 pounds; bread, 70 pounds. We ask one another, " Can we prolong life until the loth of
May?" Although the answer is usually a favorable one, we know that many chances are against us.
Our future is dark and gloomy, and I doubt if arctic clouds are ever seen with a silver lining.

I
i (

504

TUB LADY FllANKLIX HAY EXPEDITION.

Ttiursday, April lo, 1884. — This severe storm which has been raging for four days, continued until about
8 p. m. to-day, when it abated to a fresh breeze and snow ceased falling. Temperature at 4 a. m., +2.5
[ — 16.4° C.]; at I p. m., —9.0 [ — 22 8" C.|, and at 7 p. ni., —14.0 [ — 25.6° C.]. Jewell is endeavoring to
rally from the stupor into which he has fallen, but the effort is a feeble one, and he is nut likely to succeed.
He neither relishes nor cats the shrimps any more, and his death by starvation seems inevitable. The last
sad rites were performed over the remains of our late comrade, Lockwood; and he was interred with the
others on Cemetery Ridge. I visited the shrimp fishery at 4 a. in. and at 8 a. m., and again during the
evening ; the three hauls aggregating twenty-two pounds. I have assumed these duties permanently in
addition to the work connected with the issuing of provisions.

Although Biederbick is r|uite ill, yet he nevertheless continues in wonderfully good s|>irits, and he does
all in his power to cheer his more despondent companions. Gardiner is gradually drooping, and Connell
and Ellis are beginning to feel, to a marked degree, the effects of this horrible life. Jens also is feeling far
from well. What could we do without his co-operation in hunting ? Nothing. Without him the kayak
cannot be used; and without the kayak no game can be taken.

Whisler made a most startling statement to Lieutenant Greely and myself, relative to the disloyal and
dishonorable conduct of Dr. Pavy during the autumn of 1881, when they were traveling together in the
attempt to reach Cape Joseph Henry for tidings of the missing yeannette.

The alcoholic drink was again issued, and pleasant results followed. I used the last of the bird skins
for shrimp bait this evening. I will now have to use their skeletons, and all the oil-tanned seal-skin that I
can find.

Friday, April 11, 1884. — This is the most beautiful day that we have had this month. The weather
has been clear and calm, and the minimum temperature, observed at 4 a. m., was —23.0 [ — 30.6° C.]. We
hope that this bright sunlight will have a salutary effect on the condition of all who venture out to enjoy it.
Long and Jens saw nothing at the water's edge except a walrus, which they could not approach owing to
intervening leads. Long had a narrow escape from being carried out to sea this morning. A piece of the
floe, on which he was standing at the open water, broke from the main body of ice and drifted out into Kane
Sea. Jens having tliscovcred Long's desperate situation, immediately paddled out to him in his kayak.
Long earnestly urged him, but in vain, to return to the fast ice and save himself. The faithful fellow dog-
gedly refused to go, and said in his simple way, " You go, me go too!" Fortunately the turning tide wafted
their ice raft to the fast ice, and they escaped.

Physically, Israel is completely broken down ; but his mental condition seems to be as vigorous as
ever. Jewell does not rally, except under the influence of stimulants. He became unconscious late this
evening. In consideration of my heavy duties in connection with the shrimping. Lieutenant Greely directed
me to issue to myself two ounces of pemmican daily, in order that my strength be kept so that I can work
for the others. He also directed that the daily rations of Israel and Jewell be increased four ounces. We
are all once more at work making imaginary bills of fare, and partaking, in the same way, of sumptuous
repasts.

Whisler volunteered to relieve me at the shrimp fishery this morning, and at 4 o'clock he made a trip,
returning with about three pounds. At noon after three hours' fishing I brought in eight pounds more.
After dinner I went down again, and while waiting for the tardy little crustaceans to collect on my wretched
bait, I walked up and down in the beaten path to keep from freezing, my mind being occupied with
thoughts of our deplorable situation and the particular dishes that I would like to partake of just at that
moment. Chancing to glance in the direction of Beebe Point, I espied a medium sized bear, not more than
two hundred yards [183"'] away, coming directly towards me with a shambling gait. My first impulse was
to secrete myself behind a hummock near the shrimping hole and to make an attack on the animal with the
hatchet and sea-weed spe.ar when he approiiched my place of conce.ilment. These weapons, however, did
not strike me as being particularly desirable ones with which to engage in morttil combat with a ferocious
and hungry bear, and especially when wielded by one whose strength was scarcely equal to that of a child.
It occurred to me that, under the circumstances, discretion was the better part of valor, so taking the bucket
containing the five pounds of shrimps which I had collected (I could not afford to lose both the shrimps and
the bear) I hastily decamped. Dodging through the belt of heavy ice lining the shore, I gained unseen the
well-trodden path leading to the hut. I have not the remotest idea of how I managed to reach the house,
but I do know that ages seemed to elapse while I was dragging myself over Cemetery Ridge, and that I

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY KXPEDITION.

505

discariloJ my heavy mittens ami shrimi) bucket near the house. Crawling through the entrant m my hands
and knees I pushed the door o[)en with my liead, and falling into the passage completely cn ..lUsted called
out, "A bear!" Long and Jens hastily madj i)reparations to start; in the mean time a quantity f)f diluted
alcohol had been given me, and as soon as I could speak my story was brielly told and some advice given
as to the best way to proceed to effoLt tlic ca|)ture, Lieutenant Kislingbury soon followed the hmiters, but
having ran to Cemetery Ridge, he returned in a few minutes completely exhausted and broken down. At
9.50 ]). m. the hunters were heard a|)proaching the hut, and a moment later they aiinoiiiK etl to their anxious
companions that the bear was dead, and that he was lying within a few feet of the open water about three
miles away. Daring the intc-val between the time we heard the approaching footsteps of Long and Jens
to the moment their success wa;; made known the suspense was terrible; our hearts almost ceased to beat;
our lives were hanging in the balance^-.hances for life or death were eipial.

Within twenty minutes iifter the arrival of the hunters the large sledge was made ready, and Dr. Pavy,
Long, Schneider, Henry, Whisler, Ralston, Salor, LIlis, and myself started with it towards the' open water.
Three ounces of bacon were given each man before starting, in order that iiis strength might be better main-
tained. The open water was reached at midnight, and with considerable difliculty the animal was loaded on
the sledge and securely fastened. The blood which had tlowcil over the ice from the bullet wounds was
chopped out with a hatchet and saved. This is Good Friday — so I am told — and it is also the last
"fasting" day that we are likely to experience in these regions.

Sd/un/iiy, April 12, 1884. — Clear, calm weather, and on the whole a brighter day even than yesterday;
temperature at 2 a.m., —24.0 [—31.1° CJ, and 7 p. m., — .-o.! [ — 28.90 C.].

We started back from the open water soon after midnight and reached the hut at 2.20 a. m., having
accomplished a most remarkable journey, taking into consideration our deplorable condition. Kllis did not
accompany us for more than a half mile when he became exhausted, and I sent him back to the hut. With
feeble cheers our still more feeble men hauled this glorious prize, the bear, through the passage to the middle
of the room, where he was turned over to Bender and Hiederbick to be skinned and dressed. Everything
connected with this animal will be utilized — intestines, lungs, heart, head, &c., will each be used in time.
The liver, wind-pipe, feet, and the stomach (which is nearly em|)ty) will be used by me for shrimp bait.
The blood will be used for thickening stews. We look on this fellow as the means of our salvation; with-
out him, in two weeks, Ellis, Connell, Bender, Biederbick, Israel, Gardiner, Salor, and Kislingbury would be
in their graves ; as it is, they are just snatched from its brink. What words are adeijuate to express the
rejoicing manifested in our little party to-night ? There are none ; words cannot express our feeling of happi-
ness and contentment. For days and weeks we have been expecting death at any time, and its ap[>roach
had been robbed of all its terrors by our sufferings. Life had seemed to us a vague something in the misty
distance, which was beyond our power to retain or control. The knowledge that it is now restored to us,
and that ere many months we will have returned in safety to our homes, is sufficient cause for tears among
the weaker members of the party. Life now seems ten times nweeter than at any former period of our ex-
istence; and we trust that this lesson will not be lost on us in the future. Jewell died at 10 a. m. to-day
without .a struggle. Biederbick and myself closed his ayes and straightened his thin, emaciated limbs. At
2 p. m. he was placed beside the others on Cemetery Ridge. Poor fellow ! he might, in all probability, have
been saved had the bear been killed twenty-four hours earlier.

Lieutenant Greely was kind enough to transfer me to the Signal Corps with my present rank. This
transfer, of course, is subject to the approval of the Secretary of War. Our meat ration has been increased
to eight ounces per day. The hunters and shrimper ( Long, Jens, and myself) are to receive in consideration
of our severe labor a double ration of meat. Elison also receives the same allowance as the hunters. Long
and Jens rested to-day while Bender repaired their guns.

Sunday, April 13, 1884. — Clear and calm weather; temperature at 7 a. m., —9.0 [ — 22.8° C], and at
7 p. m., —14.0 [—25.6° C ]. I brought up twenty pounds of shrimps immediately after breakfast.

A gloom was cast over our party to-day by the arrival of Frederick, who reports the death by exposure
of our beloved friend and comrade Rice, at Baird Inlet, on the 9th instant, during the progress of the severe
storm which raged at that time. Together they had reached Eskimo Point, where everything was cached
except the sledge, rum, fuel, and a few rations. They then proceeded out on the floe in search of the meat ;
but no trace of it could anywhere be discovered in the driving storm. Rice finally (3 p. m.) broke down
from exhaustion and weakness, and at 7.45 p. m. he breathed his last. He had drawn to the very last
moment from his mental and physical resources, and it may be truly said that he died while walking. With

• 5

'p!

506

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

cheering words, stimulating drinks, and all available means in his power, Frederick tried to revive his dying
companion, but in vain. Could one conceive of a saddsr picture than that of the nearly distracted survivor
lying on the sledge with his dead friend in his arms, miles away from any human being, and conscious that
no power on earth could extend him aid. The storm howling loudly about him, combined with the blinding
drift, added physical suffering to mental torture. He scooped a shallow grave in the snow, and in it the
body of his cherished comrade was placed. A few pieces of ice heaped over it was all that marked the resting-
place of one who was as brave and noble as any that the world has ever known. Frederick returned the
sledge and all the equipment as far as Cocked Hat Island, where he left it for the present.

Frederick has performed his duty nobly, and this trip in which he and Rice participated will always be
conspicuous as the most heroic effort ever made by any party in these regions. Frederick says that many
pools of water exist at Eskimo Point, and that a long lane of water has opened in Rice Straits, in which
he saw a small seal. He also saw a snow-bunting near that place, and a fox not far from this house. Long
shot a small seal at noon, and Whisler and myself hauled it in this evening. It will weigh about eighty-five
pounds including the blubber. Jens says he saw a white whale near Cape Sabine this morning. Lieuten-
ant Greeiy lias increased our meat ration to one pound daily. He promoted and transferred Frederick to the
Signal Curps, to fill the vacancy caused by the death of Rice.

Monday, April 14, 1884. — The weather here under the shelter of the island has been beautiful to-day,
but the hunters say that the wind has been blowing with great velocity at the open water, and that no game
was seen there. Temperature at 7 a. m., —15.0 [ — 26.'° C.]. After a long and tedious period spent at the
fishing grounds, I brought in twenty two pounds of shrimps. The hunters report having seen a bear track
near the open water. It w.is made recently. In a letter which Rice committed to the care of Lieutenant
Kislingbury before departing on his last journey, he appoints M. P. Rice, of Washington, D. C, Lieutenant
Kislingbury, and myself as executors, and gives explicit directions regarding the disposition of his property.
Connell saw a snow-bunting on the hill above camp to-day. Frederick has slept nearly all day, and he is
recovering from the effects of his late trip as speedily as could be expected under the circumstances. Lieu-
tenant Greely contemplates sending the hunters to Payer Harbor with the wall tent in a few days. Later
on the entire party will move down, and our effects, such as are not needed for immediate use, will be trans-
ferred by easy stages.

Lieutenant Greely has not been feeling well for the last few days. The doctor says that he is suffering
with an irritation of the heart. In view of the fact that all who were greatly reduced had received extra
rations, Lieutenant Greely felt justified in using a few additional ounces of bread and pemmican this even-
ing, and, as a natural result, he felt a decided improvement in his condition. Extra rations were issued to
Gardiner all of last autumn and about half of the winter; to Elison all winter; to Rice and Jens just before
starting to Greenland, and again to J jns only a few days ago; to Lieutenant Lockwood, Jewell, Israel,
Long, Linn, 1 cderick, Christiansen; and I also was directed to increase my ration by two ounces.

Tuesday, April 15, 1884. — Clear weather, light westerly winds; temperature at 7 a. m., — icS"
[ — 28.2° C], and at 3 p. m., —12.0 [ — 24.4° C.]. I caught fifteen pounds of shrimps to-day. Schneider
assisted me greatly by coming down and carrying my can to camp. His timely aid was more than welcome
to me, ;.o I was very weak and tired, having been reduced by severe labor during the last week. Ai the
open water Long and Jens saw three seals, one of which was shot by the latter, but it sank before the kayak
could be brought. Elison's bread ration has been reduced to four ounces ; the general ration is two ounces.
The issue of diluted alcohol will be continued until further orders. Lieutenant Kislingbury and Ellis are
quite ill from the effects of overexertion during the bear e.xcitement on the evening of the nth inst. Gardi-
ner fainted this morning, but this evening he says he feels much better. Lieutenant Greely has been troubled
with flux today, and he was feeling generally so much weaker than usual that he directed a small extra issue
of bread and pemmican for himself.

Wednesday, April 16, 1884. — A heavy snowfall with moderate winds from the west visited us to-day;
temperature at 7 a. m., +5.0 [ — 15.0° C.]; at 3 p.m., +19.8 [—6.8° C.]; and at 7 p.m., +2.0 [ — i6.7''C.].
During the morning's fishing I caught eighteen pounds of shrimps ; in the evening I again hauled the nets,
which resulted in taking twenty-three pounds more. In the future I will leave the nets down when I am
through fishing instead of taking them out of the water altogether, and will do my fishing at the low tides.
By this means the nets may be hauled in a few minutes, and I will thus avoid much of the dampness, cold,
and exposure which several hours' fishing in this place renders unavoidable. This hard work is rapidly
diminishing what little strength I have left, notwithstanding the eight ounces of meat which I receive in

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

507

addition to my regular ration. Owing to his extreine weakness, Israel's ration has been increased eight
ounces. Lieutenant Greely is feeling somewhat better than he was yesterday; he ate a few ounces of bread
and ptMTimican in the store-house while I was issuing provisions. Kislingbury and Ellis are in a very weak
state; the former talked in his sleep one or two nights ago. To give us a variety, the bear meat for the
evening meal was fried instead of being boiled. Ralston has been relieved from cooking in Lieutenant
Greely's mess, and Frederick has been detailed to replace him. Henry has been paroled for the present,
and the limits of the peninsula given him.

Thursday, April 17, 1884. — The weather was clear and calm during the forenoon. In the evening,
however, we were visited by a slight snow-storm. All the morning we enjoyed a da/.zling sunlight, which
cheered somewhat the many hearts that are weary of this interminable gloom and darkness. Temperature
at 9 a. m., + 16.0 [—8.9° C.J, and at 7 j). m., —5.0 [—20.6° C.]. Owing to indications of a storm in the
sound, the hunters did not go out to the open water. Frederick hauled the nets for me ot both the low and
high tides to-day, and brought in forty-two pounds of shrimps. I returned home late last evening in an
exhausted condition, and today I have been scarcely able to move about.

Whisler placed two more windows in the boat forming our roof, which considerably improves the
facilities for light. Almost every one appears to have been benefited by the return of the glorious sunlight
which now penetrates our miserable habitation. I overhauled the effects which belonged to Rice and
Jewell, and placed them in shape for transportation to their friends. Everything belonging to the former
was turned over to Lieutenant Kislingbury and myself as his representatives. In deference to the wish of
Dr. Pavy, Lieutenant Greely directed me to take charge of all notes, journals, or writing belonging to Rice,
and to carefully seal them. The blubber stripped from the seal shot by Long on Sunday last weighs forty
pounds.

Friday, April 18, 1884. — A terrific snow and wind storm has raged about us all day. Temperature at

7 a. m., — 1.5 [— 18.6° C] ; at, 1 1

, -f 12.0 [ — 11.1° C.j, and at 7 p. m., —3.0 [ — 19,4° C.]. I weighed

the seal this morning, and found the net weight of the animal to be seventy-eight pounds. This includes
the blubber. I caught eighteen pounds of shrimps. Of these animals we now have on hand aI)out one
hundred pounds. Jens is making a small sledge to support the screen which he will find necessary to use
while hunting the seal. Lieutenant Kislingbury and myself sealed the note books which belonged to Rice,
and, by Lieutenant Greely's direction, I assumed charge of them.

The light admitted through the canvas on the boat is not yet sufficient to enable us to read at all hours
without the aid of artificial light. The melting of the frost from the roof renders our condition positively
wretched. Our bags are covered with ice, and our clothing is thoroughly saturated with the moisture thus
I)roduced. The " moonshine," or diluted alcohol, which is still issued, has had a very salutary effect on all
the men. Every one appears better to-day except Biederbick and Whisler. The former did not get up on
account of weakness; he cannot eat the shrimps* any longer. Whisler is failing rapidly in strength, and he
converses but little now. I am feeling very weak, and have been without ambition since the trip to the
shrimping grounds this morning. Lieutenant Greely again visited the commissary store-house for a small
quantity of pemmican, which his condition justified him in taking. He told me that Ralston was relieved
from cooking on account of appropriating to his own use that which belonged to others.

Saturday, April ig, 1884. — Cloudy weather, light winds from the west prevail. A heavy precipitation
of frost has done much to obscure the sky to-day; temperature at 12.30 a. m., —17.0 [ — 27.2° C.]; at 8
a. m,, +5.0 [—15.0° C], and at 3 p. m , +3.5 [—15.8" C.j. The barometer is high and steady. Long
did not go out to the open water to-day, but Jens, however, was there as usual. He reports having seen a
sell and one dovekie. Gardiner related to me to-day the disgusting details of the "liglit-fingered" opera-
tions of Ralston, while the latter was acting in the capacity of cook a few days ago; also further facts rela-
tive to his duplicity while at Conger. In view of the fact that several members of the expedition, myself
included, are of the opinion that Lieutenant Greely's strength should be maintained, he again directed that
another small issue of pemmican be made him.

* In speakini; of the minute Crustacea caught in great quantities at this place, I have almost invarialily spoken of them a.s
shrimps. This designation, however, is not strictly correct, though in some respects, especially in action, they closely resemble
the shrimps in southern waters. The small Crustacea mentioned in this journal were from one-eighth to one-half of an inch in
length, consisting of about four-fifths shell and one-lifth meat, and about seven hundred of them were required to weigh an ounce
Among the whalers of the arctic regions they are popularly known a-s " sand-neas" and " sea-lice," — D. I.. U

508

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEIHTIOK.

Ellis is worse, much worse; he could not eat his breakfast of shrimps owing to nausea which their
appearance produced in him. His days of life are doubdess very few. Biederbick, the faithful hospital
steward, is better. Whisler broke down utterly to-day. He says he can do nothing more. The fact is, we
are all very weak, and it is difhcult to find men enough to carry out the necessary routine of daily work. I
hauled eighteen pounds of shrimpr.. The raven had visited the grounds some time during the day, and
judging from his tracks and the number of shrimp scattered about on the ice he must have made a
hearty meal off the refuse. The issuing of the fresh meat is the greatest difficulty that 1 have to contend
with; it is firmly frozen and h".^ to be cut with a handsaw. My weak state renders this duty both irksome
and trying, and I often feel like giving it up in despair; but thoughts of the future, which may yet have
something bright in store for us, nerves me to the task, and by sheer force of will alone I continue the work.
The frost and ice which during the winter formed in the boat and all other portions of the roof is now
thawing rapidly, and almost everything is saturated with the dripping moisture. We are removing this ice
by hand as fast as possible. We now have a sufficient quantity of shrimps on hand to admit of everybody
having all they may desire. These shrimps possess very litde nutriment, and if taken in large quantities they
have a tendency to nauseate.

Suttitay, April 20, 1884. — The barometer has been falling steadily all day; temperature at 7 a. m., — i.o
[ — 18.3° C.];at II a. m., +2.0 [—16.70 C], and at 3 p. m., —0.5 [ — iS.i'C.]. During the morning the
weather was cloudy and stormy, but towards evening the sky cleared beautifully, and the radiant sun ap-
peared At the open water this morning Long and Jens saw nothing but one seal. I caught fifteen
pounds of shrimps, Ellis was very weak to-day, and his condition was rendered doubly miserable by an
attack of flux.

A breakfast of hard bread and tallow was greatly relished by every one, but the dinner was the chief
event of the entire winter. The stew for this meal was composed of the trimmings of the bear and the seal
heads; their hearts, lungs, kidneys, &c., and a large quantity of the blood which had flowed from the bear
wlien he fell dyin^on the floe, Every ounce of this blood had been chopped from the ice and saved for
this purpose. It enriched the stew beyond the conception of any one unacquainted with its use; it supplied
it with a thick, delicious gravy, and imparted a delicacy of flavor which proclaimed it superior to anything
that we have eaten for months. Israel's extra ration of eight ounces of meat was discontinued to-day.
Dating from to-morrow morning our regular daily ration will be ten ounces instead of sixteen, as it is at
jjresent. Dr. Pavy reported to Lieutenant Greely that the extra meat issued to the hunters was almost
wholly without bone. Think of the absurdity of issuing bones to the men who are striving with all their
might to put food in our mouths! From this date the midnight sun cjin be seen from Camp Clay.

Monday, April 21, 1884. — Cloudy and stormy weather, with puffs of wind from the west; temperature
at 7 a. m., — i.o [—18.3° C.]; at 11 a, m., -|-i!o.3 [ — 12.1° C,|, and at 5 p, m., —2.0 [—18.9° C.j. I was
taken suddenly ill last night, and in consccjuence of subsequent exposure I was thoroughly chilled. On the
recommendation of Dr. Pavy, I did not go to the fishery to day. Long and Jens also remained in and
secured a few hours of much needed rest. Long was the only man strong enough to do the outside work
to day. He is a wonderful fellow, always jolly and good natured; and he is now doing all in his power to
improve the condition of those who, in a measure, are dependent on his skill as a hunter. Lieutenant Greely
is recovering slowly; he directed that another small issue of bread and pemmican be made him. Schneider
was accused of some irrt.gularity in the distribution of food to those in the mess for which he is cook, and
was taken to task by Lieutenant Greely, who admonished him that a repetition of this offense would be the
signal for the adoption of severe measures. One of our stew-pans has been burned so badly that it is prac-
tically useless. Jens, the happy, good-natured little fellow, whom everybody loves, and who is in excellent
S])irits, and full of hope for the future, says: "Me all same white man." Meaning, I suppose, that he is
willing to share and suffer alike with us. He is a noble, faithful fellow.

Ti'esday, April 22, 1884. — Cloudy and stormy weather; temperature at 5 a. m., 4-S-o ["'S-o" C.];
at II a. m., -j-io.o [ — 12.2° C], and at 8 p. m., + 15.6 [ — 9.1° C], During the evening the storm increased
to a moderate gale. Bender and Whisler tore out the lining of the boat this morning, with the view of using
it for fuel. \\e burned the last of the stearine in cooking the evening meal, and to-morrow the use of wood
for fuel will be resumed. Notwithstanding the storm, Long and Jens made their usual tramp to the edge of
the ice. The former space of open water has been entirely covered by debris ice since yesterday, and the
present opportunities for taking game are thus cut off The shrimps had completely stripped the nets of
bait, and in consequence I caught only six pounds, fo-morrow I intend to work the evening tide.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDIIION.

509

On account of the accusations made against him yesterday, Schneider refused to cook the meal this
evening. Lieutenant Greely thereupon insisted on doing it for him, with the view of setting an example,
but he was soon relieved by Jens. Seven and one-half ounces of bacon and one ounce of bread made a
welcome change for us. Dr. Pavy and Lieutenant Kislingbury recommend that our ration be increased
from ten ounces to sixteen ounces daily. Lieutenant Greely objected, on tcnal)le grounds, to this change,
but compromised by authorizing an issue of twelve ounces daily. At this rate our provisions will last but
twenty days only. With this stormy weather to contend against, and the end of our provisions not far off,
the future is certainly dark and cheerless. Dr. Pavy further recommended that my extra allowance should
be discontinued, and that all who are strong enough should assist in the shrimping without ailditional rations,
thus saving eight ounces of meat daily. In this, after some discussion, Lieutenant Greely acquiesced. To
the credit of my comrades, I will say that several of them offered to make good this amount from their own
scanty rations if I would continue to do the shrimping. This of course, in justice to all, I could not accept.
While strength remains I will work for the best interests of the party; and when I can do no more, I trust
and hope that some one will be found with strength enough to fill my place.

Lieutenant Greely is feeling no better, and he again ordered a slight increase to his ration. All others,
except Israel and Gardiner, are as well as usual. I issued to the mess the contents of the stomach of the
seal recently shot. This perhaps would be rather trying to persons blessed (?) with fastidious tastes, but
we would be more than happy if we could have even all of this that we desire. We have discarded the evening
readings for the present, owing to the scarcity of light and want of interest. Our conversation flags for
want of topics, and by 7 p. m. all are asleep. Perhaps it is better for us that our troubles are drowned in
sleep, so that the full extent of our misery may not at all times be apparent. Lieutenant Greely gave me
directions as to the final disposition of his effects in the event of his death. I also asked as a favor that
my personal effects be disposed of in accordance with the written direction contained on the fly-leaf of this
note-book. I advised that the ration of Long and Jens be increased to twenty-four ounces.

IVciliiesiiiiy, April 2^, 1884. — A clear, bright, and beautiful day; light west wind; temperature at 5 a. in.,
-I-5.0 [ — 20.6° C], and at 7 p.m., +2.0 [ — 16. 7° C.]. In the sun the thermometer indicated -I-45.0
[-f-7.2° C.]. Whisler made a trap-door in the roof (boat) above the cooking-lamp, which allows a free exit
for the smoke. Bender manufactured another stove, and the use of wood to cook our meals has been
resumed. The meat ration of Gardiner and Israel was increased four ounces each. Long and Jens did
not see any game to-day. The absence of it may be accounted for from the fact that there is very little
open water now. I placed the nets in the water before dinner, and in the evening went down and hauled
thirty pounds of shrimps. I staggered over to the point of land west of camp in search of game, but found
nothing — not even a track or trace.

This life is growing almost unbearable — it is horrible ! I am afraid that we will yet all go mad. ^V'hat
keeps us up ? Why do we retain our sanity of mind ? I cannot tell. One woi 1 su|)pose that an existence
not half so miserable as this would be sufficient to drive one to insanity and suicide. In my case the
thoughts of home, a bright future, the many enjoyments of life, and a feeling of responsibility for the poor
fellows, who, to a certain extent, look to me to provide them with food, do more to inspire me to work and
to fight the end than anything else. Whenever I think of faltering in my duty visions of the faces of my
family and friends appear to rise up before me as a reproach to my weakness, and thus all my thoughts of
giving up are dispelled.

Thursday, April 2\, 1884. — A clear and beautiful day; light westerly winds; temperature at 6 a. m.,
zero [ — I7.8°C.]; at 3 p. m., +3'8 [ — is.7°C.j. Barometer stationary. Doctor Pavy went down to the
fishery at 4 a. m. and put in the nets, in order that the shrimps might collect on the baits. I went down
immediately after breakfast, finding that Pavy had fastened the ropes so that as the tide rose the nets were
lifted and held suspended, consequently nothing was found in them. The shrimps will attack the baits
only when they rest on the bottom. He had also filled the nets with rocks and old discanled baits, and
even had they rested on the bottom of the sea there was nothing in them to attract the shrimps. When
asked why he had been so careless, he replied, " Oh ! I was thinking of something else." Schneider made
a trip to the nets at i p. m. and did fairly well, having caught eight pounds. He lost two pounds by falling
down, and he also lost my large ladle with which I remove the shrimp from the nets. At 5 p. m. I made
another trip, returning at 7.30 with twelve pounds. Long and Jens saw an Oosuk seal while hunting to-day,
but they could not approach sufficiently near to get a shot. They report that three " blow-holes " made by
seals were observed during their wanderings about the floe.

610

THP] LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Lieutenants Greely and Kislingbury are feeling much worse than usual. The former was again issued
a few ounces of pemmican. Israel and Gardiner, poor fellows, with characteristic unselfishness, did not wish
to take the extra four ounces of meat which had been ordered for them, but desired, though not permitted,
that it be turned over to me so that my strength might be maintained while acting as shrimi)er. Schneider
has been relieved from his duties as cook, and Bender has been detailed in his place. The former will assist
nie to catch shrimps.

Friday, April 25, 1884. — Stormy and disagreeable weather; a brisk westerly wind caused considerable
drift. Temperature at 7 a. m., +9.0 [— i2.8°j; at 9 a.m., +10.5 [—11.9° C.J. The barometer has been
falling since morning. In consequence of the wretched weather, the hunters did not venture out. Jens,
however, occupied his siiare time in the construction of a screen to be used in hunting seals. Schneider
caught ten pounds of shrimps this morning. He returned completely exhausted, and at once gave up. He
says that his strength is depleted, and that he can do nothing more for the party. I went down shortly
afterwards, and discovered that he had left the net suspended midway in the water, consequently I secured
only a few stragglers. I went down again after dinner, this time taking sixteen pounds. My legs are very
weak, sore, and considerably swollen. The extra eight ounces of meat which I had been receiving, to com-
pensate for my severe labors as shrimper, and which were ordered discontinued a few days ago, have been
returned to me again. By making three trips daily to the fishery, I shall endeavor to get all the shrimps
necessary for the maintenance of the party. I shot two ptarmigan on Cemetery Ridge this morning.

Gardiner is not feeling nearly so well as he felt yesterday, notwithstanding the recent improvement in
his diet. The spring tides have carried out a great deal of ice during last night, and the largest expanse of
water since last autumn is now to be seen in Smith Sound, 'ly actual count, it requires thirteen hundred
shrimps to fill the half-gill measure. Seven hundred weigh one ounce.

Saturday, April 2'^, 1884. — Cloudy weather with light snow at intervals; brisk westerly winds have
prevailed, and considerable drift has been experienced in consequence. I took ten pounds of shrimps at 2.30
a. m., and at noon went down again, but owing to the closing of the tidal crack by high water I was too
late to haul my nets. Frederick volunteered to go down for me at 6 p. m., and he returned with seven
pounds. I am having a new net made which I think will be superior to anything now in use at the fishery.
Every one, except Lieutenant Greely, is feeling better to-day. An extra ration was once more ordered for
him. Long and Jens saw a large seal drifting with the tide on a pan of ice, but the animal was far beyond
the reach of their rifles. They say the wind was much too high to-day, and that few seals were seen. The
present indications are that our food will soon be a matter of the past. We dwell almost continually on the
subject in our conversation. But it is no wonder that it is so, for this is a matter of vital importance to us
just now. Our barometer has been rising rapidly since morning; temperature at 5 a. m., -f 7.0 [—13.9° C.] ;
at II a. m., +10.0 [ — 12,2° C], and at 7 p. m., —2.0 [—18.9° C.].

Sunday, April ?7, 1884. — Clear weather; light west winds, and the temperature at 4 a. m., + i.o
[ — 17.2° C.J; at II a. m., +14.5 [—97° C.J. The snow thawed perceptibly on the dark surface of the boat
affording a southern exposure. The barometer has taken a downward tendency to-day. I went to the fishery
at 4 a. m., and by nine o'clock I had caught twenty-two pounds of shrimps. In the evening after four hours'
work I brought in fifteen pounds more. I now work both low tides, and remain at the fishery as long as the
tiilal crack will permit me to haul the nets. The new net and line were completed to-day by Schneider and
Salor. The invalids all appear to be improving except Lieutenant Greely. Jens complains of weakness in his
legs. Lieutenant Greely has directed that the ration of the hunters be increased four ounces each. The two
faithful fellows went out at an early hour this morning and did not return until late to-night. Twelve white
whales were seen by them, and Jens shot at a seal, but without effect. Henry made the issue of diluted alcohol
without authority to-day, and while doing so he stole enough of the precious fluid to make himself helplessly
and disgustingly drunk. He is a born thief; a man without conscience, principle, or heart— in short, a perfect
fiend. Doctor Pavy recommends the issue of four ounces of bacon and the same amount of pemmican on
alternate days, as the best means of improving certain conditions of the system. Long saw two snow-buntings
to-day.

Jens, who is a faithful and indefatigable worker, and who is gready reduced in strength, said in his honest,
pathetic way, " Flskimo no good." We are struggling bravely for life — how bravely the world will probably
never know, as none are likely to live to tell the tale of out trials and sufferings. Words written in these
journals are inadequate to express or describe the horrors of our situation, and I doubt if any intellect is equal

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

511

to a full comprehension of our circumstances unless having passed through a similar experience. At the
l)resent time, with the exception of the one who is branded with the tide of thief, all are doing their best to
prolong life and to live harmoniously together.

Monday, April 28, 1884. — Calm and cloudy weather, and at times very foggy; temperature at 4 a. m.,
—4.0 [ — 20.0° C.]; at 7 a.m. +5.3 [—14.8° C.]; at 12 m., +21.0 [— d.ioC.]; at 2 p. m., +8.0 [— 13.3° C),
and at 8 p. m. it stood at zero [ — 17.8° C.J. My tour at the fishery, from 5 a. m. to 9.30 a. ni., resulted in
taking twenty-five pounds of shrimps. I also caught a large quantity of marine vegetation with the long pole
which had been made for that purpose. Frederick went down in the evening and brought back ten pounds
of shrimps. The morning's fishing had left me so weak that I wa.s utterly incapable of making the exertion
necessary for another trip down there to-day, so Frederick kindly volunteered to take my place.

Biederbick and Israel are feeling much worse than usual; the former fainted away this evening in con-
sequence of a painful and abnormal state of his bowels. The same conditions exist with .ill, and it is fast
reducing our vitality. Lieutenant Greely is suffering with heart trouble. He was provided with a small
i.ssue of pemmican in addition to his regular ration. Gardiner is feeling better, and Jens is in excellent spirits.
Lieutenant Greely has promised the latter that he will give him a new kayak when we return to Proven ;
Israel will give him a watch; Lieutenant Kislingbury and Biederbick are to present him with a boat, and
many other similar assurances have been made him, and he consequently is in a very happy state of mind.
The hunters report that the pack has moved in against the fast ice, and that the water-space about which
they hunted is closed. The ration of diluted alcohol or " moonshine," which has been issued daily, has been
taken from Henry. He has been detailed to carry out and empty the tub every morning and night, and to
perform as a prisoner other menial duties.

Tuesday, April 29, 1884. — A clear, beautiful day; temiierature at 7 a. m., +6.0 1 — 14.4° t!.]; at 10
a. m., +9.0 [ — 12.8° C], and at 9 p. m., +4.0 [ — 15.6° C.].

By making two trips to the fishery I succeeded in t.iking thirty pounds of shrimps. Long returned alone
from hunting at 2.30 p. m., with the sad and dispiriting report, "Jens is dead." The faithful fellow had seen
a large seal on a drifting pan of ice which was separated from him by several intervening lanes of water. In
transporting his kayak over a projecting tongue of ice by pushing it ahead of him, a hole was probably cut
through the thin seal-skin covering by the sharp ice with which it came in contact. On re-embarking m
the kayak the water probably rushed in through the aperture, and he was soon rendered powerless by its icy
coldness. Long says that he saw Jens paddling very rapidly, and that while wondering why this unusual
effort was being made, he saw the litUe fellow spring upright and then fall forward without uttering a single
cry for assistance. His body floated for some time, and then sank slowly from sight forever.

While endeavoring to rescue the body of his dead companion Long neariy lost his own life. He then
tried to save the kayak which w.is drifting bottom up, but in this also failed. The Springfield rifle — our best
weapon — was lost. This is indeed a sad blow to us, and one I fear that may prove fatal to the safety of the
party. Without the aid of the kayak the seals that may be killed cannot be secured unless under very
favorable conditions of wind and tide. After this sad occurrence Long saw several seals in the water within
easy range, but as he had no means of bringing them to land after they were killed, he returned home with-
out firing a shot. Hereafter, Frederick will hunt during the night, and in the day-time Long will scour the
country for game. A terrific gale from the south burst on us at 7 p. m., and will probably be the means of
breaking the straits more thoroughly than before.

Wednesday, April -xp, 1884. — This has been a truly fine day. The gale subsided at i. a. m., and by 9
o'clock the sky had cleared to admit the radient face of old Sol. A light breeze from the west did not
detract fiom the enjoyable sun bath which many availed themselves of. Temperature at 7 a.m., +2.0
[—16.7° C.]; at 2 p. m., +12.0 [—11.1° C.]; and at 9 p.m., +7.0 [—13.9° C.].

Long tramped along the edge of the floe at the open water, reaching Payer Harbor. He reports hav-
" ing seen several " blow-holes " in the ice, and bear tracks that were recently made. I have devised and
constructed a rake of iron barrel hoops, with which I made quite a successful haul of sea-weed and vegeta-
tion at the fishery. If we are not fortunate enough to secure more game, it is quite possilile that we may
eke out a miserable existence on the shrimps and this vegetation until the arrival of the birds next month.
I hauled thirty-two pounds of shrimps by making two trips to the nets to-day. Lieutenant Greely is feeling
somewhat better; another slight addition to his rations was made in consideration of his almost depleted
strength. He informs me that a letter which he has written and placed between the leaves of his journal

512

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

directs itie to assume command of the expedition in the event of liis deatli. Lieutenant Kislingbury's
mind is in such a feeble state that he is wholly incapacitated to assume the responsibilities of the leadership
of this pai , . In the event of my death, Ralston, Gardiner, Frederick, and Long will follow as commanders
in tlie order named. Every one except Lieutenant Kislingbury ap|)ears to be holding firmly to life; he is
rapidly losing strength, and his mind also is on the decline. Turf, roots and the leaves of saxifrage are being
used quite extensively in connection with our other fuel, and is found to be a great advantage in extending
our supply of wood. Last evening I suggested that the bow or stern of the whale-boat, now used as a roof
to our hut, be cut off and converted into a skiff for use by the hunters at the open water. 'J'he end which
was cut could be made water-tight by the heavy painted canvas in our jiossession. This, however, was
deemed impracticable by some, and the matter was allowed to drop. Snow began falling at 6 p. m.

T/iiirsdiiy, May i, 1S84. — Snow has been falling slowly and steadily all day; temperature at 7 a.m.,
•4-9 o [—12.8° C.]; at r p. m., -f lo.o [ — 12.2° C.]; and at 11 p. m., -|- 1.0 [—17.2° C.]. With the exception
of Lieutenants Greely and Kislingbury, all say that they are feeling better to-day. The last of the lime-
juice pemmican was used yesterday ; the remainder of the English pemmican was issued to-day, and to-mor-
row the last crumb of our bread will be given out to the starving party.

This suspense is horrible! We are anxious that the end — either one way or the other — should come
soon. Will this last sad blow — the deatli of Jens — which has robbed us of the means of securing game,
prove fatal to us ? Something tells me it will not, although I can give no reason for such impressions.
After three years of incessant toil and arduous experiences in these regions, how can we die this horrible
death by starvation without first telling the world of the results of our really magnificent work, and enjoy
for a brief period the fruits of our dearly-bought success ?

Provisions for only nine days remain to us. We can scarcely realize that we are so near our end, and
all sorts of topics and plans for the future are being discussed. The subject of food, which of all others is
nearer the hearts of our men, of course excites the most interest. Were it possible to obtain the shrimps
and sea vegetation in large ([uantities, I have no doubt but that we could live yet for many weeks. But my
shrimp bait is nearly exhausted, and my strength is going so fiist, that to haul the heavy iron rake much
longer for the vegetation will be an impossibility. It does not seem that I could supply these articles to
eighteen persons for more than a week longer with my failing strength. As there is but little nutriment in
either of these articles, an immense quantity will be required to sustain life.

On returning from hunting to-day, Frederick brought in encouraging reports regarding seal-holes which
he found in the ice near Beebe Point. After fishing for six hours this morning, I brought in twenty-three
pounds of shrimps, and six pounds of vegetation. I made another trip during the evening, but this time
caught only two pounds of shrimps. When I retired at 1 1.30 p. m., on my return from this last trip, I was so
prostrated from my exertions that I feared I could never again make another.

Lieutenant Kislingbury's mind is .ilmost completely gone. Poor fellow ! it is only a few days ago that
he spoke so hopefully of the future, and the happiness he anticipated in meeting his young sons on his return.
Yesterday I saw him lying on the small sledge outside weeping like a child ; turning to me he said with a
half-smothered groan : "It is hopeless; I cannot fight this starvation longer; I am doomed to die here!"
Lieutenant Greely asked the individual opinion of every man with reference to the extension of our provisions
beyond the date already agreed upon. The majority were in favor of reducing them to the minimum.

Friday, May 2, 1884. — Snow fell all last night and until 2 p. m. to-day. After the sky had cleared
sufficiently to allow the hunters to discern game at a distance, Frederick went out towards the open water.
Long was out for a short time early this morning, but he saw nothing. Temperature at 6 a. m., -f-2.0
[—16.7° C], and at n a. m., +9.0 [—12.8° C.]. Salor has relieved Bender from the duties of cook in our
mess. The hitter is again quite ill from the eft'ects of lung trouble. I caught twenty-four pounds of shrimps
and seven of kelp. In dragging for the latter, I found that my rake w.is much too heavy for my strength, so
making a few slight alterations, I was pleased to note that it could be managed with much less exertion
and with greater success than before. In the stew last evening there was an excess of salt water, which so
nauseated nie that I could eat no breakfast this morning.

The future looks anything but promising, but I think that all are resigned to their imjiending fate, and
thai they look T rward to death as a welcome relief from their terrible sutTerings. The wan, emaciated faces
and the skeleton limbs of our poor fellows are truly a pitiable sight. A remark which one of the men made
this afternoon conveys a very good idea of our actual condition : " Our frames," he said, " are much too

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

518

thin and weak to make even a substantial hat-rack." Our rations have been reduced to eight ounces per
man, except for the hunters, the shrimper, Elison and Israel, who rective something extra. 1 discovered
to-day that some one had been tampering with the lock on the commissaiy store-house.

Saturday, May 3, 1884. — Clear weather, light west winds; temperature at 6 a. m., zero [—17.8° C.];
at 1 1 a. m., +12.0 [ — 11.1° C.]; and at 3 p.m., -|-6.o [ — i4.4"'C.]. The temperature is doubtless very low
for this season of the year, and we are therefore impelled to believe that even nature is conspiring against
us in our trials and acute sufferings. Will these days of misery and wretchedness never end? With thieving
men totally devoid of honor among us, can we endure this life much longer? It seems impossible, for their
dastardly acts not only take nourishment from our bodies, but add trouble to our minds.

Long went to Rice Straits in search of game. He did his work thoroughly, having been absent from
the hut for over fifteen hours. He killed a small seal in one of the open-water spaces of the strait, but before
it could be reached it sank. Frederick came in at i a. m. and went out again at 8 o'clock. During the
day he saw a flock of dovekies and no less than six seals. He broke through the i<e once, wetting his feet.
The floe about Beebe Point looks as if it would break ui) in a short time. Of shrimps to-day I took twenty-
five pounds, and of kelp six pounds. I am now using the bear's liver for bait, and am fairly successful with
it. During the next spring tides I confidently expect to get enough kelp to last us for ten or fifteen days.
I shot a brace of ptarmigan on Cemetery Ridge this morning. I^ieutenant Greely is very ill ; he has eaten
nothing to-day but three or four spoonfuls of stew, and we fear for the worst. He remarked, '' I think that
I am near my end." The saxifrage is doing good work for us as fuel. A large quantity of it was gathered
to-day by Henry, who is much stronger than any other person in the party. He is still a prisoner. Whisler
was detected by Bender this morning in the commissary store-house. I was away at the shrimp fishery at
the time, but immediately upon my return I was told about how Whisler had forced the lock on the door,
and when found he was eating ravenously of the bacon. A large piece (about two pounds) was also found
in the breast of his coat. Naturally enough, he is now penitent; but, in the performance of such an act at
this critical period, little or no sympathy is felt for him. Several have openly denounced him as the most
abject and cowardly monster that ever disgraced mankind with his presence. I know that it is uncharitable
to give way to such bitter expressions, but when the circumstances are so aggravating it is impossible to
conceal our true feelings, and we would act a lie were we to express ourselves differently. With the excep-
tion of Lieutenant Greely all have been improving slightly, but this action of Whisler's will probably now
cause a depression of spirits. I don't think any one will ever be able to wholly decipher these notes. They,
being rapidly written in semi-darkness and under very trying circumstances, I fear are illegible, disconnected,
and poorly constructed.

• Sunday, May 4, 1884. — A clear, beautiful day, with light westerly winds prevailing; temperature at 7
a. m., -I-6.0 [ — 14.4° C.j; at 11 a. m., + 11. o [—11.7° C.J; and at 3 p. m., -|-6.o [—14.4° C.]. For the
first time this year icicles formed on the rocks which have a southern exposure. I caught thirty pounds of
shrimps and two pounds of sea-weed. I am steadily adding to the collection of natural history specimens
which are being preserved in alcohol. To the relief and satisfaction of all. Lieutenant Greely is feeling much
better to-day. This morning, while hunting in the vicinity of Cape Sabine, Frederick saw a large walrus,
but he could not get within range on account of intervening lanes of water. Long started out at 4 p. m. on
his night tour of hunting.

Monday, May 5, 1884. — Cloudy and windy weather. At midnight the temperature stood at zero
[— i7.8°C.]; at II a. m., -+-15.5 [ — 9. 2° C.j; and at 5 p. m. 4-10.0 [ — 12.2° C.]. Light snow began falling
at about 6 p. m. Long returned from hunting soon after midnight, reporting that he had seen nothing.
The hunting tour of Frederick terminated with a like result. I caught twenty-eight pounds of shrimps and
raked up three pounds of kelp. Henry and Biederbick collected a considerable quantity of saxifrage for
fuel. Lieutenant Greely gave me full and exjilicit instructions for future action in the event of his death, as
well as several verbal messages to his wife, to General Hazen and others, all of which I have noted that
nothing may be omitted nor forgotten. Doctor Pavy tells me that my strength is failing fast, and that he
detects the existence of heart trouble, which is probably the result of my arduous labors.

Dtesday, May 6, 1884. — A southeast gale rose at 3.30 a. m. and continued to blow with great violence
until I p. m ; temperature at i p. m., -f- 14.0 [—10.0° C], and at 6 p. m., +20.0 [—6.7° C.]. The tunnel
or passage leading into the hut was drifted full of snow during the progress of the storm and the door com-
pletely blockaded. The men are feeling wretchedly. Half a lemon was used this morning to flavor the
H. Mis. 393 33

i ^i

514

THE LADY FRAMvLlX BAY EXPEDITION.

diluted alcohol. Only one and a half lemons remain of the large number found in the cache last autumn ;
these few constitute the only luxury in KUesmere Land. In conformity with his order, I issued Lieutenant
Greely one pound of lime-juice pemmican for his use for four days. Four ounces of Elison's extra ration
have been discontinued for the present. I repaired to the shrim|) fishery after dinner, and during the three
hours' work which followed I caught twelve pounds of shrim[)s and two pounds of kelp. A heavy snow-storm
was in progress at the time.

For a long time Dr. Pavy has been objecting to certain arrangements made by Lieutenant (ireely, and
particularly with reference to the distribution of [)rovision lias he made himself very obnoxious. To-day he
had a stormy discussion with Lieutenant Greely, during which the latter several times ordered him to " shut
up." Notwithstanding this order Pavy continued to pour out a stream of abuse which so exasperated Lieu-
tenant Greely that he excitedly exclaimed, "If you were not the surgeon of this expedition I would shoot
you ! " At this point Bender, who was a strong adherent of Pavy's, interfered, but he was informed that he
must preserve silence if he did not wish to receive the same treatment with which Dr. Pavy had been threat-
ened. Bender ignored this admonition and continued to regale those present with opinions, &c., when Lieu-
tenant Greely seized Long's rifle and was about to raise it, when I, in response to the entreaties of Connell to
" prevent a tragedy," interfered, and removed the weapon from his hand. Bender was now made to get into
his sleeping-bag, and in a few minutes order was restored and this episode forgotten, in the earnest considera-
tion of an imaginary bill of fare to which we had turned our attention.

Wednesday, May 7, 1884. — A brisk westerly wind created considerable heavy drifting; temperature at
6 a. m., +14.0 [ — io.c°C.]; at n a. m., +32.5 [+0.3° C.]; and at 3 p. m., -+-15.0 [— 9.40C.]. Many,
including myself, spent the greater portion of the day in inditing farewell letters to friends and relatives. I
also addressed one to the officer commanding the relief party, in order that he might find everything of value
without loss of time. Gardiner, Lieutenant Kislingbury, and Ellis are worse to-day. Owing to the stormy
weather the hunters did not venture out. A large section was cut from the side of the boat and the opening
thus made was covered with canvas to keep out the flying snow. The wood taken from the boat is needed
for fuel. At 2.30 p. m. the wind veered to the east and increased in violence to a gale. I started for the
fishery at 3 o'clock this afternoon, but being too weak to face the terrific velocity of the wind I was forced
to return to the hut. I was blown back several times from the crest of Cemetery Ridge, and had finally to
crawl upon my hands and knees to gain it.

Tuesday, Ma 8, 1884. — The wind subsided at n a. m.; a short time previous to this snow began to
fall heavily. This however ceased at 2 p. m., and the sun shone brightly through a cloudless sky. Tem-
perature at 7 a. m., +'6.0 1—8.9° C.J, and at 9 p. m., +6.0 [—14.4° C.]. At 7 a. m. I hauled the nets at
the shrimping place and fished steadily for five hours, taking in all during that time twelve pounds. After
dinner I caught twenty-two pounds more and about five pounds of sea vegetation. I felt very tired on my
return this evening to the hut in consequence of my unusual exertions to-day. The heavy rake with which
I haul the vegetation from the bottom of the sea is fast reducing my strength, and I feel that this work
must be discontinued in a few more days. The sound now appears to be entirely open, and the observer
is at once impressed with the opinion that a vessel could navigate its waters with perfect safety. Frederick
went out hunting at 4 a. m.

Friday, May 9, 1884. — Temperature at 7 a. m., +14.0 [—10.0° C.]; at 11 a. m., +13.0 [—10.6° C]
and at 4 p. m., -|-io.o [—12.2° C.]. Cloudy weather, with westerly winds prevailing. Frederick returned
at 1.30 a. m., reporting that he had killetl no game, but that he had seen several seals enjoying a sun-bath
on the drifting ice-floes. He also saw several gulls, and a bird with a long beak, which he could not identify.
A school offish which he saw in the immediate vicinity of Cape Sabine was probalily white whales.

The doctor thinks it highly probable that we can live on the shrimps and vegetation alone for some
time after the last of our provisions has been issued, [n view of the enervated systems of the weaker mem-
bers of the party, however, I cannot believe they will survive many days after the reduction in food takes
place. Ellis prepared several baits for my use at shrimping by covering small stones with bear-skin. Dr.
Pavy is doing wonderfully well at the present lime. He cuts all the ice for the cooks, attends assiduously
to the sick, gives lectures, and bustles about the hut and camp in the interests of all. I issued another
pound of pemmican to Lieutenant Greely to-day for his personal use. The daily issue of " moonshine" is
having a very wholesome and beneficial effect on the spirits and general tone of the party. Notwithstanding
the inclement weather, Long went early this morning in quest of game. He saw no birds, but a few seals
were observed in the water some distance away from the edge of the ice. Israel's extra ration of four

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY KXl'KIHTION.

515

ounces of meat was discontinued to-day ; Klison's ration has been reduced to four ounces per day. The
hunters receive twelve ounces extra on days when they work, and only eight ouni cs when they do not work.
The shrimper (myself) receives eight ounces daily. I took thirty pounds of shrimps to-day, after having
fished steadily for more than five hours. I lost my kelp-rake by the breaking of the rope with wiiii ii I
dragged it along the bottom. A cpiantity of the vegetation, however, was sc( ured with a long pole which
had previously been used by Rice for this purpose. Salor iind Wiiisler made tiicir wills to-day.

Saturday, May lo, 1884. — C!lear, beautiful weather; ligiu west winds, and temperature at 2 a. m. stand-
ing at zero [ — 17.8° C.]; at 3 p. m., +6.0 [—14,4° C], and at 9 p. m., +,vo [—16.1° C'.]. Frederick having
gone out last evening for the purpose of hunting, returned at 2 a. m. He had seen two seals and one white
whale, but none of which he had the slightest chance of shooting. After dinner he went out again for a few
hours. Long, who had hunted during the day, met with no better success tiian Frederick. I caught thirty-
six pounds of shrimps, and dragged up ten pounds of sea vegetation. This required over six hours of painful
toil, and, on returning to the hut greatly exhausted, the exertion of climbing the ice-foot caused the blood to
gush in a stream from 'ny nostrils. Sitti.ig down for a few moments to recover from the faintness which had
suddenly seized me, ti.- blood soon ceased to flow. Dr. Pavy tells me that this hemorrhage was probably
the result of too much exertion. I made a ml-.v r.ike today, which is a decided improvement over the old
one.

The Greenland coast looms up very plainly and distinctly to-night, and Smith Sound is open to Littleton
Island, and perfectly free of ice. Long said that, standing on the high ground back of Cape Sabine, and
looking to the north and to the south, no ice appeared in sight within the range of his vision. This state of
the sound is a very favorable indication for the arrival of relief vessels, or the party which I believe is at
Littleton Island.

Sunday, May 11, 1884. — A clear, beautiful day, and only the suspicion of a light breeze from the west;
temperature at 2 a. m., —2.0 [ — 18.9° C] ; at 3 p. m., +7.5 [— 13.6° C.J; and at 6 p. m., +1.0 [— i7.2°C.J.
Frederick returned at 2 a. m. from hunting, and reported having shot a large seal which sank before it drifted
to the margin of the ice where he was waiting to receive it. This is inileed a sad loss to us — almost a fatal
blow. After dinner we went out again. Long went to the open water after breakfast, returning at 4 p. m.
He had seen several seals, one of which he endeavored to shoot, but without success. Newly-formed ice
in great fields has been crowding down from the north all day, drifting with the current to the southward.
The remainder of the pemmican was issued this morning, also the last of the fresh meat, except ten pounds,
which Lieutenant Greely directed me to keep for the present. Gardiner is looking somewhat better; Lieu-
tenant Kislingbury and Private Ellis are worse. Biederbick made me a rake for the sea vegetation, which
is not so heavy as my own, and which works exceedingly well. I caught twenty-six pounds of shrimps and
ten of kelp.

Monday, May 12, 1884. — Calm and cl'^nHv weather; temperature at i a. m., -f 6.0 [—14.4° C.]; at 6
a. m., -4-9.0° [—12.8° C.|, and at 8 p. m., -f — 16.1° C.]. Frederick returned at i a. m., having seen one

seal and a gull. He also saw a ptarmigan on „emetry Ridge, but having to return to the house for the shot-
gun the bird was lost. I issued the last of our provisions to-day. The issue consisted of twelve and one-half
ounces of tallow and bacon to each man. Tiiis is sui)posecl to last for two days, but if desired it can be
eaten at once; each man having full control of his food now. In addition to the issue mentioned above,
six ounces of tallow for each man have been reserved for use in our shrimp stews during the next six meals.
The extra rations for the hunters and shrimper extend only to to-morrow. Heaven only knows what we
will do now. The present circumstances indicate that we can do nothing but die.

Israel is feeling greatly depressed in spirits to-day, and has made a verbal will or request, that in the
event of his death the effects on his person will be disposed of according to iiis wishes. We speak freely of
death, but it is more in a spirit of a business matter than with dread of its approach. I think that all feel
resigned to the inevitable, and I am sure that none fear death, even in its worst forms. Another large
section of the boat was removed to-day and canvas substituted to keep out tlie snow, Tiie canvas door at
the outer end of the first passage or tunnel was taken off to-day. This leaves only the short passage next
to the house, and this we hope to do away with in a few days more. Long saw nothing to-day except two
seals. He appeared very much exhausted on returning from his long tramj), and expressed some concern
regarding his strength. Frederick did not go out this evening owing to a severe storm which rose just after
dinner. I caught twenty-five pounds of shrimp and five pounds of kelp.

,*i,

516

THE LADY FRANKLIN HAY KXPEDITION.

Diesday, May 13, 1884. — A clear and beautiful day; no wind except previous to 9 a. m., when it was
very light; temperature at 10 a. m., +14.0 f — lo.o" C.|, and at 10 p. m., +5.0 [— 1 ^.0° C.]. All of us,
excepting Elison, were out to day to enjoy the warmth and brightness of the sun. This is the only privilege-
that we are permitted to enjoy — all others being denied us by the neglect of our couutrymen to provide
suitable measures for our n.iief . ilis will probably go in a few lays; lie fell helplessly in the passage-
way this morning, because of his inability to use his limbs. We all stagger and reel about like drunken
men when we walk, and it is only by a supreme effort of the will that we can persuade ourselves to walk
at all.

Long is quite ill to-day, consecpiently he did not go out. P'rederick, however, made his customary visit
to the open water. He reported that nothing but a raven and seal was seen. Marks or scratches were
observed on the margin of the ice, which indi( ate that a seal had recently made an effort to crawl up on the
floe. Schneider had to be released from cooking this morning on account of faintness. Henry officiated in
his stead during the remainder of the day. Some of the men have already consumed their last issue of food,
and they will now have to de|)end on the shrimps. I had Uender construct a dredge from a large bacon can,
with which I endeavored to secure a few molUisks by hauling it along the bottom of the sea. The apparatus
is either too rudely constructed, or else there is nothing to be secured ; at least I got nothing for my labors
but a handful of sand. I caught twenty-two pounds of shrimjjs and four pounds of vegetation. I convey
the shrimp in two large tin buckets which are swung over the shoulders by a broad leathern strap. It is very
exhausting to carry for a mile these heavy buckets of shrimps. I do not think my strength can hold out for
many more days. Frederick narrowly escaped being carried away to sea by the detaching from the main
floe of that portion of ice on which he was standing.

IVeiimsiiay j/i/y 14, 1884. — Clear weather until noon, when light snow began falling; temperature at
Sa.m.,+7.o[ -i3.9°C.]; at 8 a. m., + 12.0 f — 11.1° C], and at 4 p. m., +15.0 [—9.4° C.|. The hunters
went out together this morning, returning at 4 p. m. They saw a seal and two dovekies. The former they
could have shot without dilticulty, but without a boat or kayak it could not be saved. Uender made a screen
for the hunters, which they will carry before them in approaching game. Schneider is feeling somewhat
better; as a matter of precaution and business, he made his will to-day. Israel was very ill during the
morning, but towards evening he felt much better. Poor fellow! How bravely he faces the grim destroyer,
and how manly will be his end! But we are all going quickly, and there is nothing to do but to die without
a murmur, like men and soldiers, nt the appointed time. Lieutenants Greely and Kislingbury, and Private
Ellis, very much weaker than yesterday. During the early morning we all went outside to bask like seals
in the sunshine ; lying meanwhile at full length on a discarded slee[)ing-bag. These sun-baths are good for
both body and mind ; but on our wretched and shrunken bodies there is but little surface for the sun to act.

After five hours of hard labor this evening 1 succeeded in taking only about two pounds of vegetation
and twenty pounds of shrimps. My baits are now very poor, but I am utilizing every ounce so as to bring
the largest returns possible.

Thursday, May 15, 1884. — To-day the weather has been clear and cloudless, and light winds from the
west have prevailed ; temperature at 7 a. m., -I-9.0 f — 12.8° C); at 11 a.m., +16.0 [—8.9 C.J ; at 3 p.m.,
•+-22.0 [— 5.6° C], and at 10 p. m., + lo.o [— 12.2° C.]. In many places, on the dark surface of the rocks
the snow melted under the influence of the sun, and trickling down the sides formed in pools at their base.
Long endeavored to reach the open water this morning, but was attacked by vertigo, which necessitated
his immediate return to our wretched den. All are weaker; even the remarkable energy which Lieutenant
Greely, as a conversationalist, has exhibited during the winter is deserting him, and he has but faint hopes
for the future. Frederick returned at 3 p. ni. from his hunting trip with the discouraging report that he had
seen nothing. Dr. Pavy says that Gchneider has evident symptoms of scurvy. The last solid food will
to-night be eaten in a shrimp stew. It consists of one ounce of tallow to each man. All the future stews
will be simply shrimps and water. We surely cannot live long on these.

After working constantly for six hours I caught twenty-one pounds of shrimps and three pounds of
kelp. I am fearfully weakened and reduced from the exertion and fatigue incident to work of this kind. A
few more days, probably four or five, of this severe strain and all my energies will be exhausted.

Friday, May 16, 1884. — Clear weather; light west win<ls, and the temperature at 7 a.m., + n-o
I —II. 7 C.]; at 12 m., + 15.0 [—9.4° C], and at 5 p. m., + ii.o [—11.7" C.J.

TUB LADY FUANKLIN BAY UXi'liUlTlON.

617

During the last week snow-birds have l)een seen in great niiinbcrs in thi- immediate vicinity of the iiou^o.
To-day the hunters saw only one seal, and he was so far beyond the rea( h of their ritles tliat he escaped.
The baits which I use in my siirimp nets are so poor and so niuiii riddled that I took only 9 pounds of
shrimps to-day. Of kelp I secured 2 pounds. My strengtli is .scanely sufhi ient to drag the heavy iron rake
along the bottom for this vegetation. When I fail 1 iiope sonie one will assume my duties. 1 have changed
to the morning tide in order to stxure sunlight and iietter hours for working. Cunnell went to the westward
along the coast on the lookout for game, but after a brief absence he returned fatigue<l and disappointed.

The large wall-tent was hauled to Cemetery Riilge, and, with the assistan( e of some of the strongest
men, it was finally pitched. The extreme dampness of the hut makes this more necessary; in a few days
the party will have to abandon the house for tiie tent, where they will probably remain until the crisis is
reached. Lieutenants (Ireely and Kislingbury, Sergeant ( iardiner, and Private Kllis are much worse. Salor is
too unwell to cook longer. VVhisler broke down conn)letely this evening. He was not able to cut enough
wood to cook breakfast with. Schneider is the only one who says lie thinks himself improving, liender,
who was very disagreeable at different times last winter, is now doing fairly well; he came bravely to the front
to-day, and offered to cut the wood for fuel when Whislcr failed to jjerform this work, which had been
assigned him. Smith Sounil was to-day a rolling, billowy sea; it was entirely free from drifting ice, and there
was apparently nothing to prevent small boats from crossing liie sound to this place.

Sittuniay, May 17, 1884. — .\ clear, beautiful day; a light precipitation of frost did not to any extent
detract from the clearness of the atmosphere; light winds from the \yest. Temperature at 7 a. m., + 12.0
[— 11.1° C.]; at I p. m., + 25.5 [—3.6" C.J, and at 5 p. m., -)- 13,0 [—10.6° C.]. At noon a thermometer
exposed in the sun indicated + 400 [+ 4.4° C.]. Every time a bright day visits us we go outside and lie
down on a pile of old clothing, sleeping-bags, &c., to secure the benefits arising from sun-baths. I caught
sixteen pounds of shrimps and four pounds of vegetation. To say that after this exertion I was tired and
weak, will but feebly express my real condition. The hunters and the shrimper (the latter myself) will here-
after receive a double allowance of the thin shrimp stew to preserve their strength as long as possible.

A portion of a can of lard which had been retained as ointment for poor Elison's wounds, was to-day
issued in equal proportions to the party. The remainder of the diluted alcohol was also issued. Saxifrage
is now occupying a prominent place in our diet, but I cannot say that it will preserve our strength very long.
It does not distress the stomach, and it appears to possess nutritive qualities. The hunters now go out
alternately. Long, who went out to-day, saw one seal in the water, but he failed to get a shot at him.
Ellis is much weaker. Lieutenant Greely seems somewhat better than yesterday. We talk very little
now, owing to lack of interest in anything except that which pertains to food. All our subjects are thread-
bare, but imaginary bills of fare always possess much of interest to us. The snow thawed rapidly to-day on
the rocks above camp. Schneider has recovered sufficiently from his illness to be able to resume his duties
as cook.

Sunday, May 18, 1884. — Stormy weather; a southeast gale, accompanied by snow, has been in prog-
ress since early this morning. Temperature at 3 a. m., + 10.0 [— i2.2°C.], and at 11 a. m., + 18.0
[ — 7.8° C.]. Long shot a large raven at 5 a. m. I had attempted to secure this bird only two hours earlier,
but it unfortunately escaped me. It will be used for shrimp bait. Notwithstanding the inclement weather I
fished for shrimps all the forenoon, taking ten pounds. I also caught two pounds of vegetation. The
hunters did not venture out in the merciless storm to-day. The water has encroached considerably this side
of Cape Sabine, and it is rapidly working in towards Buchanan Straits. A vessel could have sailed to-day
in an iceless sea between this and the Greenland coast. To the excessive joy of all, three more issues of
alcohol were found in a rubber bag which had been mislaid in the boat. Ellis is much weaker.

Monday, May 19, 1884. — The gale which was in progress yesterday continued all night and until noon
to-day, when it abated to a fresh breeze. The snow has been swept from the floe in many places, and the
drifts which have accumulated along the shore are as firm and unyielding as marble. Temperature at 7
a. m., -I-21.0 [—6.1° C.]. Frederick who had been dispatched at 4 a. m. to cut ice for breakfast returned
in a moment greatly excited, but with the welcome inforr .ation that he had seen a bear outside. In the
twinkling of an eye he disappeared through the door, followed closely by Long, both bearing their rifles.
Loading the shotgun with ball cartridges I followed the hunters in a few minutes. After tramping for an
hour without seeing anything either of the hunters or the bear, I turned back to camp, not wishing to break
down my strength and thus compromise our only means of sustaining life— the shrimp fishery. Frederick

■ i i

518

THE LADY FKANKMX BAY KXl'BDITIOX.

came in from the pursuit at lo a. m., and Long returned about an hour later. Neither had been able to
get within range of the animal, although he was followed closely for hours. Becoming exhausted by their
arduous labors in the rough ice and the dee|) snow, the hunters turned back while they yet pos»essed suf-
ficient strength to enable them to return to Camp Clay. When the bear was first seen by Frederick this
morning he was standing but a few feet from the rear of the hut.

After fis ling steadily for several hours, I returne<l with fifteen pounds of shrimps and one pound ofkclp*
I do not feel that I can continue this work much longer. Kverything I do now is through sheer force of
will. Israel and (jardiner are worse; the former was not able to eat his shrimps this morning, and the
latter is very much weaker than usual. The large F.nglish sledge was to-day broken up for fuel. We hope
to extend this fuel for some days, and the saxifrage, of which Connell and Dr. Pavy have collected a con-
siderable quantity, will be used in conjunction with it. Ellis, who has been very weak and sick for several
days, iiuietly breathed his last at 10.30 a. m. No symptoms of scurvy were apparent, bul his death was due
solely to starvation. Frederick saw dozens of dovekies at the open water this morning, but he possessed no
means of securing them, even had they been within range of his gun. The hu>t issue of diluted alcohol was
made this morning. VVhisler broke down to-day from excessive weakness and lack of will power.

Tuesday, May 20, 1884. — Fresh southerly winds have prevailed all day, and slight drifting was in con-
sequence experienced. These winds have raised the temi)erature to +31.0 [—0.6° C], and the snow is
becoming soft. Weather cloudy. R;ilis was buried at noon on Cemetery Riilge. So weak have the men
become that we could scarcely find a sufficient number with enough strength to haul the remains of the dead
on the hill to their last resting-place.

Israel is much worse. Lieutenant Oreely directed me to issue Israel four ounces of the raven which
had been ke|)t for shrimp bait. Biederbick was unable to eat his shrimps this morning. They are not
palatable to any of us, and it is only with the greatest effort that we can persuade ourselves that they must
be forced down if we wish to prolong our lives. A small quantity of Medford rum, which we were keeping
for an emergency, was to-day issued to the party. Bender and Henry gathered a large sackful of saxifrage
which will be used to eke out the sleniler sup|)ly of fuel. The green shoots of this plant are used largely in
the shrimp stews by several of the men. This vegetation has no unpleasant flavor, and it materially assists
to fill the void in our stomachs, but I doubt if it possesses any particular nutritive value.

The late storm has broken for a long distance into the ice this side of Cape Sabine. There is so little
ice in Smith Sound now that a vessel could steam anywhere between Cape Sabine and Littleton Island. As
the gale was southerly we had expected that Smith Sound wculd be choked by the ice drivtn northward from
the north water. But the absence of ice in the sound is positive proof that the North water was and is also
free from ice. If our Government neglects to send a relief vessel with the whalers when they pass Melville
Bay in the early days of June, it will either be an act of criminal negligence, or else it will be because of
inexcusable ignorance on its part. We are striving hard to survive on the shrimps and kelp, but as I catch
but small quantities of these now, we cannot hope to live much longer. To-day I caught twelve pounds of
shriinps and two of kelp. Another bear or a large seal would save us all from a fate identical with that
which befell Franklin's expedition.

Hednesciay, May 21, 1884. — Calm and cloudy weather; temperature at 7 a. m., -+-29.0 [—1.7° C], and
3p. m., +36.0 [+2.2° C.J. In the sun the thermometer indicated +42.0 [+5.6° C.]. Snow-drifts have
become very soft, and in the immediate vicinity of any-dark surface they thaw quickly. Light snow has
been falling steadily since this morning. The hunters made their customary visit to the open water to-day;
their efforts, as usual, being rewarded by nothing. In consequence of the excessive dampness of the interior
of our house, we will probably move on the hill to-morrow. The tent was pitched there some time ago, but
it was blown down during the recent gale.

Dr. Pavy says that our food must be something more substantial than these shrimps, or none of us can
live long. I caught twelve pounds of these animals to-day, and one pound of marine vegetation. Returned
very much exhausted from this trip. Cannot last much longer. Medford rum was again issued. The snow
is being removed from the roof of our miserable hovel, in order that the boat may be used for fuel.

I had a long conversation with Lieutenant Greely this morning. He is anything but hopeful of the
future. Some of his papers have been committed to my care, and in the event of his death I will place
theni (if I survive) in the hands of the Chief Signal Officer.

To-day Dr. Pavy circulated a paper, written by hmiself, which certified to his medical skill, and to his
devotion to his professional duties. He solicited the signatures to this paper of several men, of the party,
myself included.

TIIK hADY KUANKIilN HAY KXI'KMITION.

519

T/iurs,/iiy, Afiiy 21, 1884.— l'U)iuly woallicr; lij<ht westerly wimls ;in<l a liigh tctnperaturc. No reading
of the tl\L'riii(>iiietcr w;ih iiuulc in tin- shade; in the miii, however, it ri'nistt red + (S.o | +S.90 C'.|. The snow,
\vlu« h is lieaped in a hii^e drift about tiie hoiisi', thawiil < onsideraiily lu d.iy, and the dri|)|)ing of the dnn)|i-
luss from the roof inside warned us that it was time to move if we wished to escape heinj; drowned out.
Aiiordinnly the tent was placed in position on .1 small plateau near ( emetery Rid^e, and five of the party
will sleep in it to-ni^ht. Owing to extreme weakness, (he hunters did not venture out to the open water.
I.on^ is (|uite ill from the cfiects of overwork on his reeent hunting trips. Lieutenant Kislinglniry, C'onneli,
Israel, and lliederl)i< k are much weaker. Ralston is delirious and is most likely dying now (4 p. m.). lie *
drank some rum only two hours ago, and iluring the forenoon he ale large i|uantitics of saxifrage, and at one
time he sang a song. Less than un hour ago. Lieutenant Cireely, in whose bag he is, fed him a portion of
his shrimp stew. 1 thought I heard the howl of a wolf to day, and lienry fantieil that he heard the peculiar
cry of a skua.

Dr. I'avy retjuested that the remainder of our stock of rum be issued only to those who are working
(himself exce|)te(l), but to this Lieutenant (Ireely would not :u ( ede. The latter stated that no issue would
be made uidess all shared alike.

FriiUiy, Mity 23, 1884. — Clouily weather, light westerly winds, and high temjierature. Light snow fell
during the afternoon and evening. With the exi eption of five nun the entire i)arty has moveil on the hill
where the ti;nt was pitcheil. This, together with a small shelter in front, accommodates all except the five
mentioned ; they .sleep in the old house where we spent the winter. Llison w as niovetl on his mattress, not
without dilliculty, but without injury or \n\\n to him. Israel was so weak that it became necessary to haul
him i)art of the way. Lieutenant Kislingbury and Private Whisler barely managed to drag themselves to
the summit of the ridge where the tent is located. They surely < annut long survive the horrors of thi.s scene of
indescribable desolation and misery. I caught only ten pounds of shrimps. My strength was not e(|ual to
managing the kelp-rake to-day. Long saw a skua at the open water, and heard the hoarse bellowing of
several walrus. Frederi( k has labored t;iithfully all day to erect the shelter in front of the tent, and in
making the sick comfortable. Ralston died at i a. m. His end to all ap|)earances w.is painless. The
remains were not buried to-day owing to the extreme weakness of some of our strongest men.

Saturday, A/ny 24, 1884. — A slight fall of snow occurred this afternoon and evening; temperature at
12.30 a, m., +19.0 [ — 7.2° C.J, and at 6 a. m., +24.0 [ — 4.4° C'.]. Dr. Pavy, Salor, Long, anil myself
slept in the old shanty last night. It is damp, cheerless, and pretty well dismantleil, being almost without
a roof. Frederick and Long workeil faithfully all day at this place to get sufficient canvas to complete the
annexed shelter to the tent. I overhauled the effects, including w ills, final statements, &c., of those of our
comrades who have died, and placed them in condition for transportation home. Later in the day I caught
thirteen pounds of shrimps and one pound of kelp. The water has broken into the tloe for a considerable
distance this side of the first rocky point south of the shrimjiing grounds, and Smith Sound is now an open
sea with scarcely a fragment of drifting ice in sight. Ralston's remains were committed to the frozen earth
this morning before breakfast. Whisler died at noon. Dr. Pavy asserts that his death was premature, and
that it was hastened through fear and dread of being carried otT by starvation. Could he have had an
ample supply of nutritious food throughout the winter, no cause for fear would have existed. Schneider's
face is quite badly swollen. This is probably the result of eating saxifrage, which now enters largely into
our diet as a substitute for the sea vegetation which I am no longer able to obtain. Owing to a great dimi-
nution of strength I have caught only a small quantity of kelp in the last week. Israel, Connell, Biederbick,
and Lieutenant Kislingbury are much weaker than yesterday. Israel cannot long survive the horrors of
this hated place, and the others will follow quickly if game is not soon taken. A skua was heard in the
rocks near the tent to-day. The doctor works like a Trojan in assisting the sick, and in doing various little
offices to improve the condition of those about him. Caterpillars are now quite numerous on the bare spots
in the vicinity of Cemetery Ridge. Yesterday Bender saw one of these animals crawling over a rock near
the tent, and after watching it intently for a moment he hastily transferred it to his mouth, remarking as he
did so, "This is too much meat to lose."

Sunday, May 25, 1884. — A southeast wind began blowing at 10 a. m., and during the entire day it
continued with great velocity from the same direction. In the evening it had increased to a moderate gale,
and with the heavy cloud of blinding drift, and the thickly falling flakes of snow, I was prevented from
making my daily journey to the shrimping grounds, though the demand and necessity for it was great. We
buried Whisler after dinner, when the storm was at its height.

520

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Four of us still sleep in the dismantled and abandoned winter house, which now aiTords but little pro-
tection against these severe storms, liut there is no remedy for the matter, as our strength is not equal to
the task of getting out the canvas necessary lor the construction of a shelter large enough to accommodate
our entire i)arty. My (lod, this life is horrible! it is burdensome, and it plunges one into the lowest de])ths
of despair. Will this continual scene of suftering and death never change? Will assistance never arrive?
But I will not succumb at this hour; while strength remains I will do everything that is possible to assist the
sick, and those who are less fortunate than I.

Seal-skin thongs cut into small jjieces were intro(hiced in the shrimp stew this morning. A small
quantity of this skin was also burned to a cinder on the lire and then ravenously devoured by the hungry
party.

Monday, Alay 26, 1884. — Soon after midnight the gale abated to a fresh wind, and throughout the
forenoon the weather was particularly enjoy.ible. The temperature this evening was +26.0 [ —^.2,° C.|; in
the sun the thermometer registered +46.5 [ + 8.1° (.".]. A\'ith the excej ion of Dr. I'avy and myself, every
one ai)pears in better condition than yesterday.

Schneider was detected in the act of stealing food (shrimps and tea), and he was also accused of making
unfair divisions in the issue of these articles. He was relieved from the duties of cook, and Bender, who
volunteered for the duty, has been given the place. 'I'he two messes were consolidated some time ago, and
one cook now does the work for both. For the tirst time this year, sufficient fresh water to jirepare a meal
was collected from the pools among the rocks.

Slopes having a southern exposure are in many places entirely devoid of snow. The sun is making sad
havoc with the drifts near by. The sea has again encroached, and is now within a short distance of the
shrimping ground. Smith Sound is entirely open. 1 caught eight pounds of shrimps and two pounds of
vegetation before breakfast this morning. I'nder ordinary physical conditions, I could have obtained a
much greater (piantity, but owing to excessive weakness, and a dull throbbing in my head, which produced
a feeling of faintness, I was forced to desist. In the evening, however, feeling somewhat better, I went
down again, returning at about midnight with twelve pounds more. The few inferior shrimp baits now in
use I will endeai'or to extend until June 1, but after that date, unless we get game, our only resource will be
kelp, saxifrage, and the small rock lichen [l)ij><- tie loi/n) which grows here in abundap-e on the rocks. A
few garments of seal-skin, boots of the same material, together with our oil-tanned sldning-bag covers, will
have to be used by us as a substitute for meat. To-day the soles from an old pair ol m .il-skin boots, with a
few shrimps, provided us with a breakfast and dinner. Long saw several king-ducks at the open water this
morning, but they were so exceedinglji timid that it was impossible for him to get a shot. He, however,
succeeded in killing two dovekies, both of which were drifted away by the ebbing tide. A thermometer
lying on the ground inside the tent registered +33.0 [ + 0.6° C], and one suspended four feet [1.2'"] above
the ground, +52.0 [+11.1° C.J.

Tiii'Sihn\ Miiy 27, 1884. — In the morning the sky was clear and cloudless; in the afternoon a southerly
gale set in, which continued until after 7 o'clock; temperature at 8 a. m., +24.0 [—4.4° C.| — the same
thermometer exposed in the sun soon afterwards, +55.0 [-f la-S" C.]. Israel, the youngest member of our
party, ])assed away just after midnight, dying very easily. After losing consciousness — about eleven hours
before his de.ath — he talked of food, restaurants, i\;c. Every one was his friend. He had no enemies. His
frankness, his honesty, and his noble generosity of nature had won the hearts of all his companions. His
unswerving integrity during these months of agony has been a .shining example; and, although his sacrifices
were lost to a few, still the effect has produced good fruit. For lack of strength we could not bury him
to-day.

The greater portion of the day was spent in erecting a shelter immediately in front of the tent, and to-
night we will all sleep together for the first time. After working on this structure for some time, I was too
much exhausted to go shrimping; so, weak and sore, I retired with the others to sleep away fatigue and
care. Long saw myriads of king-ducks on the floe's edge at the open water, but to secure them was an
utter impossibility, owing to their shyness. Water sufficient for supper .md nearly enough for breakfast was
obtaineil from the pools among the rocks near our tent. A heated di.scussion regarding the medical supplies
took place between Lieutenant Cireely and Doctor Pavy this evening. I have not the strength, interest, nor
inclination to record the details of this quarrel. The latter's mind is evidently somewhat clouded.

lVeJnestiay, May 28, 1884. — A cold, disagreeable day; light easterly winds and cloudy weather; tem-
perature at 2 p. m., -I-24.0 [—4,4° Cj. I caught nine pounds of shrimps, and Long returned from the open

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

521

water with a. dovekie. He had killed another, but it drifted away from him to the open sea. Many king
and eider ducks were observed. The dovekie, by general acclamation, was ordered to be reserved for Long
and myself, that our strength niight be maintained.

A large portion of the floe near the shrimping grounds was again broken off last night. The sound is
now as open and as free from ice as it was in August, 1881, when we steamed northward in the Protfus. If
there is a party .at Littleton Island why does it not come to our rescue while there is yet time to save a few
lives? There are now no obstacles to be encountered in crossing this expanse of water. At noon to-day
Israel was buried on Cemetery Ridge. The invalids are in about the same condition as yesterday. Doctor
Pavy thinks that a few have symptoins of scurvy. I shall never forget the delicacy of flavor of the dovekie
stew which I ate this evening. Delmonico's tempting dishes — of which we have frequent visions — were for-
gotten in the enjoyment of the moment.

Thursday, May 29, 1884. — Clear and calm weather in the forenoon, but at i p. m. the sky clouded, and
almost immediately afterwards a southeast g..ie burst upon us, causing a furious drift and defying all our
efforts at protection in this rude shelter. Inside the tent, however, they are screened from the full fury of the
blast, but still their lot is far from being a j)leasant one. The shelter in which several of us were lying was
first blown full of snowand gravel, and then the whole structure was blown down; the poles which had sup-
ported the canvas fell in such a position as to lie across our bodies. Long was driven from the etlge of the
ice by the appro.-ich of the storm, and joining me at the shrimping grounds, we returned together to the camp,
which we reached only after a desperate struggle. I had taken eight jwunds of shrimps and Long brought in
one dovekie. I went to the old hut for wood ; the storm meanwhile increased in violence and I was confined
within the walls of tiiat dreary prison for two long and weary hours. On returning to the tent Doctor Pavy
and Salor refused to admit me to their sleeping-bag, in which I occupied a place. Physically I could not
enforce my rights in this matter, my condition bordering on utter exhaustion, and wishing to avoiil any
unpleasantness I crawled into one of the abandoned bags lying outside as the only alternative. This bag
was frozen and filled with snow. Can my sufferings be imagined? They certainly cannot be described.

Owing to the severity of the gale we were unable to cook our scanty supper of shrimps, and in conse-
(juence nothing was eaten this evening.

Notwithstanding that I gave directions to the cooks yesterday that all scraps and pieces of seal-skin
were to be considereil public property. Bender was found eating some to-day. Me freely confessed his guilt,
but said in explanation that, owing to hunger, he could not resist the tem])tation. I told Frederick to collect
everything in the line of seal-skin that is eatable, so tiiat I could lock it up until it is wanted. Temperature
at 9 a. m., + 27.0 [ — 2.8° C.].

Friday, May 30, 1884 — Light westerly winds accompanied by snow have prevailed all day; tempera-
ture at 10 a. m., -f 29.0 [—1.7° C.J; and at 3 p. m., 4- 27.0 [ — 2.8° C.]. The gaic of ye.sterday, to which
I was exposed in one of the sleeping-bags outside, did not subside until after midnight. I passed a wretched
and awful night, unprotected as I was from the pitiless storm which howled about in all its wild fury. A large
snow-drift accumulated inside and about my sleeping-bag, and my hands, feet, and face were terribly swollen
in consequence of this unusual and uiuiecessary exposure. Suffering with rheumatism, and smarting under
the sense of wrong done me by my sleeping-bag companions, mental agony was added to physical torture.

Our breakfast of shrimps was eaten at 10 a. m.; we had fasted for twenty-six hours. To-day I caught .
six pounds of shrimps. The last piece of bait which I possess was placed in the net, but it will last for a
few days yet. 1 saw three brant geese, two dovekies, and hundreds of king and eider ducks, but they are all,
except the dovekies, beyond our reach. I cannot understand how we manage to survive on six to ten
pounds of shrimps per day, but I suppose the vegetables and seal-skin possess more nutriment than we imagine.
Those who are too weak to work seem to retain wonderfully well the little vitality they have left. Doctor
Pavy, Long, Frederick, and myself, are failing and weakening fast. A few days more and this struggle for
existence will be forever over. Our shelter was repaired to-day, and it is now much more substantial than
ever. A northwest gale began at 9. p. m.

Saturday, May 31, 1884. — A heavy snow- storm joined the gale of last evening, and both continued all
day with undiminished fury. Not only were we held close pri.soncrs in our poor shelter, but we were al.so
confined to our sleeping-bags on account ot the driving drift, which covered us to a depth of over a foot.
We were unable to cook anything, ami as no solid food had been prepared in advance, nothing has i)assed
our lips to-day — not even a swallow of water. Of all the days of misery and suffering in my life that I can
recall to memory, there are none which will compare with the tortures which I have oorne during the last
few hours. If, possessing the gift of divining the future, I should discover that I had yet another month of

522

TUB LADY FUANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

this terrible existence before me, I would at once end everything. When I shall have attained the age of
three score and ten years, if fifty years from the l)est portion of my life were offered me as an inducement to
endure again the agony of the past month, I would reject it as an insufficient reward.

In my daily journeyings across Cemetery Ridge, it was but natural at first that my reflections should be
sad and gloomy. There lie my departed comrades, and to their left is the vacant space, where, in a few days,
my remains will be deposited, if suffi';ient strength remains t(^ those who may survive me. The brass buttons
on Lieutenant Lockwood's blouse, scoured bright by the flying gravel, protrude through the scanty covering
of earth which our depleted strength barely enabled us to place over him. At first these dazzling buttons
would awaken thoughts of those bright days so joyously spent with him at Fort Conger, and of the half-
forgotten scene of his death and the universal sorrow that was felt at his departure; but later my Otvn
wretched condition served to counteract these feelings, and I can now pass and repass the place without
emotion and almost with indifference.

Sunday, yiine i, 1884. — The gale abated at i a. m., and immediately afterwards we turned out of our
comfortless quarters to remove the snow which had accumulateil to a considerable depth over us. The snow
had also penetrated to the interior of our sleeping-bags, and they were necessarily subjected to a thorough^
process of beating and shaking. Ureakfast consisicil of only three ounces of shrimps and a cup of tea to
each man. This, however, is a fair sample of OL.r daily fare. Just how we manage to exist on this meager
and almost worthless food, is a subject worthy of careful study. Hut we have no conception of what the
human frame is capable of enduring until put to the test. All are very weak and much depressed ; this
especially is the condition of those who were exposed last night to the fury of the storm in that wretched
shelter, and who, like the others, have fasted for tliirty-six hours.

Lieutenant Kislingbury became unconscious at 8 a. m., and at 3 p. m. he breathed his last. The
beautiful Episcopal service was read after his death, in accorilance with the custom established by Lieutenant
Greely upon the occasion of our first funeral. He begged piteously for a drink of water ju ' before he
became unconscious, but this the doctor denied him on tlie grounds of its injurious tendency. He then
sang the doxology in a weak but clear voice, and sinking back in his bag he was soon in the cold embrace
of death.

The sky cleared at 8 a. m., and the sun came out bright and clear. The weathei remained in this
way until 3 p. m., when the sky again clouded and light snow began falling. Temperature at 10 a. m.,
+35.0 [+1.7° C.]. Pools of water are forming among the rocks and in depressions of the ground near the
tent. A sufficient supply of water for two days' use was collected by the cooks this morning. It is very
fortunate that we are enabled to secure water without melting ice, as our fuel is fast disappearing. Frederick
relieved Bender from the duties of cook, owing to the illness of the latter. Long shot a dovekie to-day.
By the recoil of his gun one of his eyes was seriously injured, and it became necessary for me to lead him
home. 1 caught eight pounds of shrimps. The snow is so very deep and soft that of the seven hours which
we were absent five were spent in walking to the open water and in returning to the tent, leaving only two
for fishing. We were weak and faint from exhaustion when we returned to the tent. My knees and joints
are so stiff and so much swollen and inflamed that 1 am inca|)able of bending the knee, and while in the
act of walking it is necessary for me to swing my feet outward instead of lifting them directly from the
ground. Flocks of king, eider, and long-tailed ducks were seen by Long to-day. He also saw several
dovekies and a few gulls.

Monday, ynne 2, 1884. — A clear and beautiful day: a southeast wind sprang up at 8 p.m. The
temperature at the time was +35.0 [-f 1.7° C.j. The snow, which is already very damp and soft, is disap-
I)earing rapidly under the influence of the sun. The ice -foot was also percejjtibly diminished to-day. Water
in abundance can now be obtained from pools among the rocks. After an absence of over seven hours 1
returned with only five pounds of shrimps. My baits are almost useless for further fishing. Lieutenant
Kislingbury was buried this morning. Schneider is no longer able to work ; Bender is but little better off,
and Lieutenant Greely and Gardiner are very weak. Saior l)ecame delirious at 7 p. m. Long shot a dove-
kie. He saw very few ducks to-day. The large numbers seen yesterday were probably due to the southeast
gale, which drove them to this side from their favorite liaunts about Littleton Island. Vast fields of ice are
now moving down the sound. If these were to ciioke in the narrow part of the sound it might have the
effect of driving the birds and seals to this side of the channel.

Tuesday, yunc 3, 1884. — Fair weather; a moderate wind blew steadily all day from the southeast, and
the snow thawed considerably. Water •: ickled from the lieavy drifts on the hillside and formed near the
tent in large pools, from which we draw ample quantities for cooking purposes. Temperature at 8 p. m.,

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

523

4-31.0 [—0.60 C], Owing to windy weather Long did not go out to-day. I caught only six pounds of
shrimps. While absent this morning I heard a walrus bellowing near " Disappointment Berg." Salor died
at 3 a. ni. We were lying together in the same bag at the time, and having neither the strength to remove
the remains nor the inclination to get up myself I slepf quietly until 9 o'clock, when breakfast was announced.
There has been no material change since yesterday in the condition of the invalids. The three or four
dovekies which have been killed were divided between J.ong and myself, and we find thnt they have per-
ceptibly added to our strength, thus enabling us to pursue with fair success our respective functions as hunter
and shrimper.

Doctor Pavy talked rather incoherently this evening, and he also made some rather absurd prescrip-
tions. His mind is evidently somewhat obscured. For several days past he has eaten very little ; in fiict
at meals he has taken nothing except tea. For weeks past I have noticed that Linn's feet were protruding
from the gravel heaped over his frozen form. Day by day tlie elements have reduced this scanty covering
of earfh, until his lower extremities were exposed to the furious gales which sweep over the dreary solitudes
of Cemetery Ridge. I have often thought that I would replace that which had blown away, but my waning
strength impelled me to defer this from time to time, and now I am too weak to attempt it.

Wednesday yunc 4, 1884. — A beautiful day; temperature at 11 a. m., +32.0 [0.0° C.]. In the sun,
however, it rose to ■•■62.0 [-f- 16.7° C.]. The high wind of yesterday abated at 6 a. m., but it again sprang
up in the evening. The invalids are about the same as they were yesterday, except Doctor Pavy, who is rapidly
losing both his mental and physical vigor. I caught seven pounds of shrimps and Long shot a dovekie.
He also killed a king-duck and an auk, but both were lost. Frederick, assisted occasionally by Henry, is
doing all the work about the camp, which includes cooking, gathering saxifrage for fuel, and cutting wood
from the boat. Schneider manages to bring the salt water used in shrimp stews, but he can do nothing
more. Owing to their inability to move about. Bender and Connell are doing very little work to assist the
others. During the last few days I have eaten a great many of the dark-coiored rock lichens (tripe de roclu)
which abound here, and I have invariably found them ijuite palatable and not in the least injurious to the
stomach, the experiences of Franklin and Hayes to the contrary notwithstanding. Lieutenant Greely and
several others, including myself, are of the opinion that they possess considerable nutriment, and we seriously
contemplate using them as an article of diet in the near future.

Smith Sound is a beautiful sheet of water to-day; there is not a piece of ice in sight, and its surface is
as smooth as glass and as clear as a polished mirror. How easily we could be reacheil by a relief vessel, or
by a boat party from Littleton Island. Not feeling strong enough to make a grave for Salor in the gravelly
soil on Cemete.y Ridge, we placed his remains where they will be inaccessible to the wild animals — in the
tidal crack. I was very weak and faint this morning, but the feeling in a measure passed away before night,
and I was enabled as usual to go shrimping.

Thursday, yune 5, 1884. — Fair weather; light westerly winds, and temperature at 4 p. m., +34.0
[ + 1.1° C.]. Doctor Pavy is very much reduced in strength ; he refuses to partake of the shrimp stew, and is
kept alive by weak tea alone. I caught five pounds of shrimps. Long was not successful in his hunting
operations to-day. Reindeer moss, in small quantities, has been found in the immediate vicinity of the tent,
and was at once used to augment our stews. The vegetation of this place, comprising poppies, saxifrage,
grasses, &c., are looking quite green, and the patches of moss situated in damp places are growing rapidly.

The thievish propensity of Henry has again manifested itself, and to insure the safety of the few survive
Lieutenant Greely has deemed it necessary to issue to Long, Frederick, and myself an imperative order to
shoot him without delay if he is again detected in the act of aijpropriating to his exclusive use any article of
food belonging to the public stores. The following is a true copy of the order :

"Near Cape Sabine, ymic 5, 1884.
"To Sergeants Brainard, Frederick, and Long: ■

" Private Henry having been repeatedly guilty of stealing the provisions of this party, which is now
perishirg slowly by starvation, has so far been condoned and jjardoned.

"It is however imperatively ordered, that if this man be detected either eating food of any kind not
issued him regularly, or making caches, or appropriating any article of provision, you will at once shoot him
and report the matter to me. Any other course would be a fatal leniency, the man being able to overpower
any two of our present force.

"A. W. Greely,
" Lieutenant, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

" Commanding;; Ludy Franklin Bay Expedition."

524

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

Henry, who wns acting as assistant to Frederick the cook, had taken advantage of the absence of the
latter, and twice stole the greater jjortion of the dovekie intended for the hunter and shrimper. He was also
seen eating seal-skin lashings and seal-skin boots, botli of which were stolen from the public stock.

Ffiday, yune 6, 1884. Clear weather; light westerly winds; temperature at 3 p. m., +34.0 [+ 1.1° C.J,
and at 6 p. m., +30.0 [ — i.i^C.]. I fished for the tantalizing shrimps for more than seven hours, catching
only two and one-half pounds. My baits are almost woithiess now. What am I to do in order to con
tinue this, our only food supply ? I have tried everything at hand, but with no favorable result. I would
again drag for the sea vegetation, but my failing strength is not eiiual to the task; I can do nothing moie
than stagger down to the shrimping place and return.

In view of the fact that Henry has again made a bold and boastful admission of his guilty crimes (and
crimes they are) and was this morning detected in the act of perpetrating another. Lieutenant Greely has
caused the following order to be issued :

"Near Cape Sabine, yune 6, 1884.
" Sergeants Brainarp, Lono, and Frederick :

" Notwithstanding promises given by Private C. B. Henry yesterday, he has since, as acknowledged to
me, tampered with seal-thongs if not other food at tlie old camp. This pertinacity and audacity is the
destruction of this party if not at once ended. Private Henry will be shot to-day, all care being taken to
prevent his injuring any one, as his physical strength is greater than that of any two men. Decide the
manner of death by two ball and one blank cartridge. This order is imperative and absolutely necessary for
any chance of life.

"A. W. Greely,
" First Lieutenant. Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Assistant,

" Commanding Lady Franklin Bay Expedition."

Further explanation of this is unnecessary. The order was duly executed at 2 p. m., and later it was
read aloud to the assembletl party. Although deploring the necessity for measures of such extreme severity,
all were unanimous in the opinion that no other course could have been pursued.

Bender died at 5.45 p. m., and Doctor Pavy who had been weakening rapidly for several days passed
away at 6 o'clock.

Among Henry's effects were found seal-skin boots and thongs, and several large pieces of seal-skin
clothing, knives, ilvc, all of which he had stolen from the general stores.

Considerable ice was observed to drift southerly to-day along the Greenland coast; near Cape Sabine
however, and in fact all along the Ellesmere Land coast, the water is perfectly free from ice. Flies, large
and very numerous, are very troublesome about the tent during the warmest days.

Saturday, jfune 7, 1884. — Clear weather and light westerly winds; temperature at 7 a. m., +31.0
[-0.6° C.].

In addition to his duties as cook, Frederick is doing all in his powei for those who are ill. He cer-
tainly is a wonderful fellow. Long shot nothing to-day, and I took only two pounds of shrimps. The long
walks which we take daily are fast reducing our little remaining strength.

I gathered together all the seal-skin which we intend using for food. The oil-tanned skin (that from
which the hair has been removed) will be used in stews; the clothing on which the hair still remains will
necessarily be burned or roasted. I do not find as much of seal-skin as I had anticipated.

Schneider now confesses that Henry and Bender, in whose bag he was, ate large quantities of this
clothing at night, they having secretly burned it during the day. Biederbick and Connell collected a few
lichens and gathered a quantity of reindeer moss.

This evening dinner consisted of a stew composed of two boot-soles, a handful of reindeer moss, and a
few rock lichens. The small quantity of shrimps which I furnish daily are sufficient only for the morning
meal.

A small silver chronograph which was found on Henry's person was abandoned by Lieutenant Greely
at Fort Conger. Henry must have stolen it at the last moment before leaving the station. We dressed the
bodies of Doctor Pavy and Bender for burial, but for the lack of strength were unable to convey them to
their last resting-place.

Sunday, yune 8, 1884. — This has been the clearest, the brightest, and the most enjoyable day that we
have yet spent on these inhospitable shores; temperature at i a.m., +31.0 f— 0.6° C.]; at 11 a. m., +38.1^
f+3-3° C.]; at 3 p. m., +38.0 [+3.3° C.]; at 4 p. m., +40.0 [ + 4.4° C.]; and at 6 p. m., +35.0 [+ 1.7° C.|.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

525

A stew of less than three ounces of shrimps per man was issued for breakfast, and a thin, unpalatable dish
of seal-skin thongs was served for dinner. Schneider worked for a long time to-day burning the hair from
seal-skin clothing, so that it could be eaten. A portion of the garments so burned were divided and eaten
with the soup at dinner.

Lieutenant Greely worked for five hours to-day, and in that time he collected about two quarts of lich-
ens. Connell gathered a quantity of saxifrage, which is now in full blossom. These flowers are very sweet
and palatable, and will in the future be largely used as an article of diet. Biederbick and Lieutenant Greely
collected about equal quantities of lichens. Biederbick is quite ill this evening, having vomited copiously.
He made a discovery to-day which adds to the many contemptible acts of Henry — that of a small cache of
bear meat. Henry doubtless stole this more than a month ago, and concealed it in the rocks above camp
for future use. Long and I went down to the winter house and brought up a quantity of wood for fuel.
Our strength is fast diminishing. Even were we to kill large game, it would be impossible to bring it in
intact, on account of our weakness. I wonder how- much longer we can hold out on this meager diet of
shrimps and seal-skin ? Not many days, I am sure. If we are saved at all, the vessel which is to effect the
rescue must hasten — we have but few days to live.

Connell's gums are quite sore. This will verify Doctor Pavy's predictions, made a few days before his
own death, that Connell had symptoms of scurvy. Schneider's limbs are quite badly swollen, presumably
from the same cause.

Monday, yuiie 9, 1884. — Calm and cloudy weather; temperature at 9 a. m., +39.0 [+3.9° C.]; at 3
p. m., +38.0 [-1-3.3° C.]; and at 6 p. m., -1-38.5 [4-3.6° C.J. Our breakfast consisted of nothing more
than a few shrimps and the usual cup of tea ; for dinner, a few raw lichens, a piece of burned seal-skin, and
a cup of tea were served. Lieutenant Greely is indefatigable in his efforts to collect lich . Mr the general
mess. Connell appears quite strong, but he doubtless has incipient scurvy. He gathered a quantity of sax-
ifrage for fuel. Biederbick picked lichens. Schneider burned the hair from the seal-skin garments which
were eaten at dinner. Long shot a dovekie and a Brant goose; the latter drifted away by the tide and was
lost. I caught only one-half pound of shrimps. One of my nets was lost by the breaking of the rope by
which it was suspended.

Bender was buried in the tidal crack this morning, and during the evening the remains of Doctor Pavy
were lowered into a similar grave. The greater part of the snow has disappeared from about our camp, and
I now frequently observe traces of hares, and yesterday I found a bimch of musk-ox wool. The former,
however, were not recently made. I also discovered a few fragments of bone and wood, the latter bearing
evidence of having been worked by the Eskimo. All these relics recently found tend to strengthen my
former opinion on this subject, viz, that the Eskimo inhabited these regions previous to their migration north-
ward to Lady Franklin Bay. Among the other very interesting things found here is a piece of drift-wood)
which I found lying among the rocks fifteen feet [4.5'"] above the level of the sea. Long's thirty-second
birthday; he received a spoonful of rum in honor of the occasion.

Tuesday, June 10, 1884. — Weather cloudy until 4 p. m., when the sky cleared and the sun came out
beautifully; temperature at i a.m., -|-34.o [-}-i.i°C.]; at 8 a. m., -H32.8 [-^-o.4° C], and at 12 m., -f.40.0
[4-4.4° C.]. Gardiner is a great deal worse ; the others, however, are not visibly changed. Long and myself
felt greatly refreshed and strengthened by the portion of dovekie stew which was accorded us by the party
in consideration of the severe strain which we undergo in hunting and shrimping. For dinner the lichens
were prepared in the form of a stew, and I think they were generally well liked. After boiling them for a few
minutes they became greatly svvoUcn and the water soon assumed the color of tar and the consistency of
thick sirup. These will now become our staple article of food until the supply is exhausted. " Disappoint,
inent Berg " is now connected with the open water by wide lanes. Disintegration of the floe in Buchanan
Strait is likely to occur at any moment. The snow on this low point has entirely disappeared from the
rocks and from exposed places ; in the ravines and depressions, where the sun cannot penetrate readily, it
has become soft and slushy. Saxifrage is now in blossom and ready for pressing. The scanty tufts of
grass are looking (juite green.

To day I saw a bumble-bee flitting about among the saxifrage blossoms and was reminded that summer
had come at last. Its approach has been so gradual that we can scarcely realize that it is here. After
fishing for several hours, I gave up in despair, having caught only two pounds of shrimps.

Wednesday, June 11,1 884. — A clear, cloudless and beautiful day ; light west winds; temperature at 3 p.
m., +40.0 [-1-4.4° C.],and at 8 p. m., -I-38.0 [-f 3.3° C.J. In the sun the thermometer indicated a temperature

526

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

of +62.0 [+16.7° C.]. Long returned at 1.30 a. m. from the open water, bringing with him two fine guil-
lemots which he had killed. One of these was given to the general mess and the two other will be divided
among those who are doing the heavy work for their weaker companions. This evening a great misfortune
befell me. The spring tides have broken out the ice at the shrimping place, and my nets have been carried
away and lost; my baits, poor and miserable as they were, are gone also. It is anything but pleasant to
reflect that to-morrow morning we will have no breakfast except a cup of tea. It was cjuite late when I
returned this evening from shrimping, and everybody had retired. I did not have the heart to awaken the poor
fellows, but I let them sleep on quietly under the delusion that breakfast would await them at the usual hour
in the morning. How I pity them !

I made a flag, or distress signal, as it might be more properly termed, which I intend placing on the
high, rocky point just north of our tent, where it may be seen by any vessel passing Cape Sabine. Schneider
is not able to go out of doors to-day, and Gardiner is much worse than he was yesterday. Lieutenant Greely
is suffering with dysentery and could not go out as usu;H for lichens. Biederbick climbed the hill to gather
lichens from the rocks for our evening stew. He complained of faintness, but his indomitable will would
not succumb to physical weakness. We began using the compressed English tea this evening.

There is scarcely a fragment of ice in Smith Sound. Why do not the whalers arrive soon to rescue
from their perilous situation the few survivors who so anxiously await their coming ?

Thursday, yune 12, 1884. — The day opened clear and fine, with light winds from the west; tem-
perature at if a. ra., +36.0 [ + 2.2° C], and at 6 p. m., +36.0 [ + 2.2° C.J. We had nothing for breakfast
except a cup of tea.

I found a new shrimping place this morning not far from the tent. After working it thoroughly for
several hours I was forced to return with only two pounds. For dinner we had a few boiled lichens and a cup
of tea. Schneider is worse; Lieutenant Greely is better, and *he others are about the same as they were
yesterday. Connell's face is full, and he has the appearance of a man in excellent health, but the delusion
is due to bloat. To-day he surprised us all by expressing a wish to work, cook, and live by himself. This
request Lieutenant Greely refused to grant. Long, Frederick, Lieutenant Greely, and myself have a slight
attack of diarrhea, which we attribute to the use of lichens.

Gardiner died at 5 p. m., starvation being the primary cause of his death, but it was doubtless hastened
by inflammation of the bowels. Patience and fortitude have cliaracterized his sufferings during the last few
months. He clung to life with a wonderful pertinacity, and only succumbed when physical weakness had
crushed his iron will. At 2 a. m. he became unconscious, but for hours prior to this he had held the portraits
of his wife and of his mother in his hand, gazing fondly at their beloved faces, and when his spirit had
passed into another world the skeleton fingers still clutched the pictures of those whom he had loved.

From this date I shall expect a relief vessel to arrive at any moment. The water has broken the floe
to the rocky point near our winter house. I placed the signal flag in position on the rocky point facing the
sea. It can be seen for a long distance, owing to the combination of colors composing it.

Friday, June 13. — A southeast wind, brisk and damp, prevailed all day and prevented the lichen gath-
erers from pursuing their customary labors. Our supper in consequence was necessarily the simplest that
could well be imagined — a seal-skin temiak (Eskimo coat) which had been roasted or burned over a saxifrage
fire. We fared somewhat better for breakfast, however, having the results of last evening's shrimping,
together with a few lichens.

The physical condition of the little remnant of our party remains unchanged; mental vigor, however,
is fast ebbing away. Biederbick was discharged from the army to-day, his term of service having expired.
I caught only about one pound of shrimps this evening. 1 have nothing but the two guillemot's skins for
bait, and they are nearly consumed by the repeated assaults of the voracious shrimps. Notwithstanding
the high wind and the disagreeable weather, Frederick, the never-tiring cook, has been bustling about camp
all day. Owing to the unfavorable state of the weather Gardiner was not buried. My signal-flag has been
blown down by the wind; temperature at 8 a. ni., -f 32.0 [0.0° C], and at 9 p. m., +31.5 [— o.3°C.].

Saturday, yune 14, 1884. — High wind abated at 4 a. m.; the weather remained cloudy all day; tem-
perature at n a. m., -f4i.o [-fs.o° C.|, and at 5 p. m., -<-42.o [ + 5.6° C.J. Our breakfast, with its few
ounces of shrimps, was but a poor apology for a meal. When we went out this morning to begin the day's
labors, we were all very weak. Lieutenant Greely, Connell, and Biederbick gathered lichens for supper
to-day and breakfast to-morrow. Frederick performed the usual camp work. Gardiner was buried in the
tidal crack.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

527

I caught only one pound of shrimps. Long complains of indisposition, but this did not deter him
from going out to the open water, which is now quite near our camp. The floe ice is fast breaking away
from the siiore. " Disai)pointment Herg" is alreatly free from restraint; the ice, which had kept it a close
prisoner for so many months, has all disappeared. Connell saw a small seal and a dovekie in a pool not far
from the ice-foot. Neither was secured. I replaced the distress signal-Hag, which was blown down by the
wind yesterday. The lichens are now called — for sake of variety — " the arctic mushrooms."

Sumiity, ytitie 15, 1884. — Cloudy, stormy, and generally disagreeable weather. There are also indica-
tions of a very high wind on the sound; temperature, 7 a. m., +30.0 [— i.i°C.]; u a. m., +34-o l + i-'" C.]^
and at 7 p. m., +39 o [ + 39° C.]. Light snow fell during the forenoon. Long saw five walrus sporting
in a small pool near the ice-foot, and in adjacent pools he saw many others. They were all too far away
to be reached by the hunter. No game was killed to-day. The invalids remain about the same.

A small shrimp and lichen stew was prepared for breakfast, and for dinner we regaled ourselves on
plain raw lichens. The oil-tanned seal-skin cover to Lieutenant Greelys sleeping-bag has been removed
and divided equally between Connell, Biederbick, Schneider, and Ellison. To the remaining members of
the party will be issued the cover of Ljng's bag, which is identical with the one used to-day. Some dis-
tance out on the floe Long saw a fox, which was traveling northward. The little fellow was evidently in
search of food.

Schneider begged and implored that some one would give him opium pills in order that he could die
quickly and easily. It is needless to say they were refused.

All sense of the feeling of hunger appears to have left us. We eat simply because we think it necessary
to do so to insure the prolonging of our lives, and not from the inclination which a healthy hunger would
produce. All fastidiousness of taste has also departed. Crumbs of bread which are occasionally exposed
at our winter quarters through the melting snow are picked from heaps of the vilest filth and are eaten with
avidity and without repugnance. Henry at one time ate ptarmigan droppings; Bender ate caterpillars,
worms, &c.; saxifrage, lichens, and other vegetables, together with the intestines of birds and other animals
are considered epicurean dishes of the highest order. I worked for several hours in the raw, chilling winds,
but my efforts were not rewarded by any great degree of success, having caught but little more than a pound
of shrimps.

Monday, J^iinc 16, i884.^Temperature at 7 a. m., +37.0 | +2-8° C.J; at 11 a.m., 4-40.0 [+4.4° C], and
at 3 p. m., -f 38.0 [-1-3.3° C.]. The lichen gatherers were prevented from going out to-day in consequence
of a high wind. Owing to this unfortunate state of the weather we had a very meager breakfast of shrimps
and lichens, and for supper we had nothing at all. Our condition is indeed wretched and full of distress;
we are calmly waiting succor or the alternative — death. One or the other must visit us soon.

The minimum thermometer (No. 590) lost last winter in the storm was found to-day by me near the
winter hut, quite uninjured. No lemmings have been seen by our party on this coast, but to-day I found
tiie skeleton and head of one in the rocks near the Proteus wreck cache. The bones when discovered were
intact, but being extremely friable from great age they at once crumbled to dust on coming in contact with
my fingers. The shrimp fishery — our last resource, except the lichens — has failed for want of bait. For
full five hours I worked as faithfully and persistently as my remaining strength would permit, and during
that timj took only two or three ounces of these crustaceans. Even these I did not carry to the tent, being
barely able to crawl there myself without incumbrances. Walrus in countless numbers were seen in the
pools some distance out, but none appeared on the ice or in the water-s|)aces near land. " Disappointment
Berg," being relieved from its environment of ice, has moved silently away from the position which it occu-
pied for so long a time. The last of our tea was used for breakfast.

Tuesday, yuiie 17, 1884. — It has been a clear, beautiful day; a gende breeze from the west tempered
the warmth of the sun during the forenoon. Temperatures; Minimum, +30.5 [—0.8° C.J at 7 a.m.;
maximum, +38.0 |-|-3-3°t!-] -it u a. m. As a substitute for the Knglish tea a decoction of saxifrage was
served us for breakfast. It was very bitter, unpalatable, and slightly nauseating, and despite my earnest
eflforts to swallow this vile compound I was forced to give up in disgust. With the exception of a few
mouthfuls of roasted seal-skin left over from better days, this tea was all we had with which to break our
fist. For dinner a lichen stew was prepared. It was very small, however, and did not go far towards
satisfying the feelings of our starving men. I brought up an armful of wood for fuel from the boat which
formed the roof to our .abandoned hut. Being too weak to prepare it for burning this duty fell to Frederick.
He is also nearly broken down, but his iron will sustains him. Schneider is almost entirely helpless, and
his words evince great mental weakness as well. Many walrus are bellowing and tumbling about in the

''A
■ J

ill ni

528

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

i '9

si I

water not far to the northward of the extreme northern point of this island, but unfortunately we cannot
reach them without a boat. The sleeping-bags of Long and myself were stripped of their seal-skin cover-
ing and the pieces equally divided for consumption. This is the last and only material in camp which we
can use for food. When it is gone the party will not long survive ; we are already standing on the brink of
the grave, and when the last mouthful of food h.is been used death will quickly claim us for his own. VVu
will probably all die at about the same time, and none of those now surviving can expect to be accorded
the burial which our departed comrades have received.

This evening I repaired as usual to the shrimping grounds, but my labors meeting with about the same
result as yesterday, I concluded to abandon this work for the present and turn my attention to the collection
of lichens. Not a piece of ice was to be seen in the channel this evening, and its surface was as clear and
smooth as glass.

IVednesiiay, yune i8, 1884. — With the exception of a few hours in the morning the sky was cloudy all
day; minimum temperature, +30.0 [—1.1° C.J; maximum, +42.0° [ + 5.6° C], occurring at 3 p. m.
Saxifrage tea and boiled seal-skin comprised our breakfast. Having nothing to cook in the evening — the
saxifrage tea being voted a nuisance — no fire was maile. A few mouthfuls of boiled seal-skin which we
providently saved from the morning rneal was eaten for supper. Frederick says he is too weak to cook
more than one meal each day. What would seem very remarkable in our case is that we long for certain
articles of food, but at the same time the sense ol hunger is not felt. The fearful gnawing of hunger at our
stomachs which was experienced last autumn and winter has some time since disappeared. There has
been a perceptible diminution of strength in the party to-day. I was unable to go out until 4 p. m., when
I crawled and i-taggered — I scarcely know how — to the rocks a dozen yards away to scrape off a few lichens.
Soon after eating his breakfast Schneider became unconscious, and at 6 p. m. he died. It is just three years
to-day since he was detailed for duty with this expetlition. On his return from collecting lichens this even-
ing Connell complained of dimness of vision and inability to manage his limbs as he desired. Biederbick
very inconsiderately changed underclothing entire this morning. It now occurs to us that we have neither
changed clothing nor bathed since we left Fort Conger in August last, nearly eleven months ago. Long
shot two dovekies last night, but they drifted out with the tide and he got neither. He will now change
his hours for hunting from night to the daytime, the tide being more favorable at that time.

Thursday, yune 19, 1884. — The weather was clear during the morning, and westerly winds prevailed.
In the afternoon, however, the wind veered to southeast, and attained a high velocity; temperature at 7
a.m., +34.5 [-1-1.4°]; at II a. m., +37.5 [-f 3.1° C.J, and at 3 p.m., -|- 37.8 [-+-3.2° C.|. Long went out
during the night in search of game, and did not return until a late hour this morning — while Frederick was
preparing breakfast. Two dovekies and two eider ducks had been killel by him, but all were carried seaward
by the ebbing tide, before they could be secured by the long pole which he carried for fishing game from the
water.

I discovered a small piece of driftwood on the land thirty feet [9™] above the tide level. It bears marks
of having received rough usage in the ice-pack, and its appearance also denotes great antiquity. A few days
ago, on another part of the island, I found a similar piece which was not as far above the water as this one
by fifteen feet [4 5'"]. These facts alone would seem to be indisputable evidence of the gradual rising of
this land from the sea. The water is rapidly eating its way through the floe into Buchanan Strait.

The party is now yielding slowly but surely to the inevitable approach of death; a brief respite only
awaits them. The lichens are very scarce, and the absence of bait has rendered the discontinuance of
shrimps a necessity. What we will next do is a matter of conjecture. The lichens appear to possess con-
siderable nutriment, and had my recommendations regarding them been adopted others of this party would
probably have been living now. I ate a quantity several weeks ago, and finding them palatable and not at
all injurious to the stomach, I earnestly urged Lieutenant Greely to authorize them to be used in the mess as
a regular article of diet, and he probably would have done so but for the very emphatic and tenacious
professional opinion advanced by Doctor Pavy, who pronounced them not only injurious, but also extremely
dangerous to the system and directed, or rather advised, that they be not resorted to except in the last
extremity. Connell doubtless has symptoms of scurvy. I attribute my abnormally swollen face and limbs
to the same disease.

Our bieakfast consisted of a few pieces of charred seal-skin and a thin lichen stew. I found and
gathered a fine bed of reindeer moss, but was too ill to collect many lichens. Owing to the greatly enervated
state of the party to-day, Schneider was not buried as contemplated, but was moved a little nearer the ice-
foot.

THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXTKUITION.

520

Friday, yune 20, 1884. — A clear, beautiful morning, with light westerly winds; temperature at 7 a. m.,
-f 29.0 [- 1,7° C]; at II a. m., +33.0 [+o.6"> C], and at 3 p. m., +38.0 [+3.3° C] ; minimum, -{-26.8
I — 2.9'' C.]. Long went to his hunting grounds at 3 a. m., but saw no game. A high southeast wind, which
lose at II a. ni., continued all day. Biederbick and Connell are much enfeebled. The former, although
showing scorbutic symptoms, went out with Lieutenant Greely to gather lichens. Coniiell's mouth is very
bore.and decidedly worse than it was a few days ago. His badly swollen face and limbs, together with the
condition of his mouth, impresses us with the belief that he has the scurvy. He was incapable of leaving the
tent to-day. I brought some wood and salt water for Frederick, and collected a little reindeer moss.

While removing Schneider's remains from the tent on the day he died, it was noticed that his mouth
emitted an offensive odor which pervaded both the tent and the outside shelter. We are of the opinion that
it was produced by scurvy, of which he exhibited symptoms.

Saturday, yune 21, 1884. — Our summer solstice ! The wind continues blowing a gale from the south ;
temperature at 7 a. m., +3«'0 [— c.6° C ] ; at 11 a.m., +34.0 f-t-i.!" C], and at 7 p. m., -I-31.0 [—0.6° C.J;
minimum, +28.0 [—2.2" C.J. Tent in dilapidated condition; shelter barely habitable for Long and myself.
It is nearly down now, and if the storm does not abate soon it will be blown over. Snow squalls at intervals.
The water has worked into the ice of Buchanan Strait for a long distance, and the sea is running very high.
A meager lichen stew for breakfast, and a few pieces of boiled seal-skin for supper.

Connell is worse ; he says his legs are useless below the knees. Since day before yesterday E'.ison has
transferred his food to his mouth by a spoon which is tied to the stump of his frozen arm.

Appendix No. 125. — Portion of diary 0/ Private Roderick R. Schneider, found on bank of
Mississippi River in Missouri, and correspondence relating thereto with Mr. J. A.

Ockerson.

Office of Mississippi River Commission,
2828 Washington Avenue, Saint Louis, September 28, 1885.
Dear Sir; Yours of the 23d instant is received. I take pleasure in sending you the diary inclosed
herewith. I have taken great interest in it, and should like very much to have the leaves returned to me
after their contents have been duly noted. I retain a copy of them duly certified by Capt. Thos. Tuttle,
Corps of Engineers, to guard against loss in transit or otherwise.

I am investigating the details of the finding so as, if possible, to get a clue to the question of how the
diary came where it was found, and if you desire I will be pleased to inform you of the facts.

It was found some four or five miles below Point Pleasant, Mo., on the right bank of the Mississippi.
It was found by C. Brainard, then in our employ. He is in no way related to the man in your party of the
same name.

If not too much of a tax on your time I should be very glad to hear from you further in this matter,
and I would also solicit a copy of your report when published.
Hoping that the document may be of service to you, I am,
Very respectfully,

J. A. Ockerson,
U. S. Assistant Engineer,
Lieut. A. W. Greelv, '

Pittsfield, Mass.

«l

Newburvport, Mass., October 17, 1885.
Chief Signal Officer of the Army,

Washington, D. C. :
Sir : I have the honor to transmit herewith a portion of the original diary of the late Roderick R.
Schneider, of the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition, together with a letter from Mr. J. A. Ockerson, U. S.
Assistant Engineer, of Saint Louis, which exphiins how it came into my possession. I have to state that
I at first thought, with Captain Schley, that this diary, with other similar notes of Private Schneider's, were
accidentally thrown overboard with my sleeping-bag immediately after my rescue at Cape Sabine. Later,
H. Mis. 393 34

530

THE LADV FRANKLIN HAY KXrEDITION.

however, I had reason to believe that the iliary had been appropriated by some one of the seamen of the
reheving squadron. Captain Schley and Lieutenant Kinory, while not concurring in my suspicion that the
diary had been taken, made every effort to secure the safe return of these and other articles, which were also
undoubtedly appropriated by the seamen of the squadron. The impossibility of preventing such misconduct
on the part of the seamen is obvious to any one at all familiar with the excitement and confusion incident
to the rescue. I have the honor to request that this remnant of Schneider's diary and the accompanyini;
letters be attached to my report.

Mr. Ockerson has expressed a desire that the sheets should be finally returned to him, but I havfi
advised him that, in my opinion, the original should revert to Private Schneider's family.
I am, respectfully yours,

A. W. Greelv,
first Lieutenant, Fifth Cav., Acting Signal Officer and Assistant.

ipii
I i

Office of the Mississippi River Commission,
2828 U'lu/iington Avenue^ Saint Louis, N(n>ember ^, "885.

Sir: On September 28, 1885, 1 sent to Lieut. A. W. Greely, Pittsfield, Mass., a portion of the diary per-
taining to the " Greely Expedition."

On the supposition that it may be of some interest, I beg leave to submit the following account of the
time and place at which it was found :

It was found March 2, 1885, about three miles below Point Pleasant, Mo., on the right bank of the
Mississippi River, by C. Brainard, then assistant engineer in the employ of the Mississippi River Commission.
The leaves were separated and scattered along the bank for a distance of two or three hundred feet. They
had apparently been left there by the water, at a stage some three feet higher than when found. An exam-
ination of the gauge records fixes the date when they lodged there as about February 22, 1885.

Besides the record proper (which covers a period from June 6 to June 17, 1884, and begins "3 of us,
an order was published to-day that he should be shot "), there were three pages of mess account, giving the
amount of game, shrimp, &c., which had been caught, six blank leaves, and the leaves which were attached
to the cover, with a portion of the '•over.

A search was made for some distance above and below for other portions, but without success. The
outside leaves being intact, and the ragged edges of the other leaves, gave the impression that the missing
part had been torn out.

It came into my possession early in August last, and after carefully reviewing the published accounts of
the expedition and its survivors I became satisfied that it was Schneider's diary.

Before reporting the matter I attempted to solve the mystery as to how a diary, which was thrown over-
board in Greely's sleeping-bag off Cape Sabine, could have reached the place where it was found. I have
not arrived at a satisfactory solution of the matter.

About September 20 I wrote to Lieutenant Greely with regard to it, and he informed me that Schnei-
der's diary was missing and that he believed that it was stolen by some member of the relief squadron.

He also requested that it be sent to him at once, which was subsequently done. I retained the blank
leaves and also a copy of the diary in order to guard against possible loss in transit.

On its receipt Lieutenant Greely informed me that the diary was genuine, and that it had been sent to
your office to be entered on the official records of the expedition.

I had hoped to trace the movements of some ex-members of the relief party who were on exhibition

in this section in the fall of 1884, thinking that I might in that way get a clue to the former possessor of the

diary, and possibly learn whether it was lost or whether an attempt was made to destroy it. As yet I can

only say that their names as given here are Burke, Clarke, and Smith.

Hoping that the above statements, if not of any real value, may still be of some interest, I have the

honor to be,

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

J. A. Ockerson,

Assistant United States Engineer*
Gen. W. B. Hazen,

Chief Signal Officer U. S. A., Washington, D. C.

THE LADY FUANKLIN BAY KXI'KDITION.

531

Diary of Private Ji. H, Schneider , at Camp Clay, yune 6-17, 1884.

[G«me.]

Shrimps.

[Date.]

[Description.]

[Weight.]

[Collector.]

[Date.]

[Weight.]

1884.

IM. Ot.

1884.

Lht.

Mar. 14

3 ptarmigan..

3 "o

Brainard.

Mar. 19 to 25

Mar. 16

4 dovekies...

Long and Jens.

Mar. 37

Mar. 17

I ptarmigan..

1 4

Eskimo lens.
Brainartf.

Mar. 38

S«

Mar. 34

I fox

S »

Mar. 39

Mar. 27

33 dovekiei..

Long and Jens.

Mar. 28

1 ptarmigan..

Free erik (Eskimo).

Do...

14 dovekies..

Long and Jens.

Mar. 29

I ptarmigan..

Rice.

Apr. I

II dovekies..

Long and Jens.

Apr. 3

2 ptarmigan..

Brainard.

Apr. 7

....do

Jens.

Long and Jens.

Apr. II

1 ice bear ...

400

Apr. 13

I seal

Long.

Apr. 25

3 ptarmigan..

Brainard.

May. 3
May. 28

....do

Do.

I dovekie

Long.

May. 29

....do

Do.

une I

Do.

une 2

....do

Do.

une 4

....do

Do.

June 6

— .do

Do.

three of us, an order was published to-day that he should be shot.

Although this is a most terrible day every one is in very good spirits this evening, and Brainard and
Long are both at their respective work — the former shrimping and the latter hunting. Our only food now
consists of three ounces of shrimps daily per man.

Lichens and saxifrage and reindeer moss are eaten in the stew by those who like it. The stew and tea
both were reduced to one pot.

Among other things there were found some tea in Henry's effects, and he also took some shrimps out
of the stew pot this morning by Shorty [Frederick].

Brainard returned 10.45 p. m. with only 2^ pounds of shrimps, yet he had been gone since 4.30 p. m.^
but the baits are giving out. Long returned 10.20 p. m., very much fatigued; he had been able to succeed
in getting the dovekie which he had shot.

Brainard slept in the bag with me. •

During last night Henry was eating burned seal-skin and I asked him for some, yet he refused me it
positively.

Saturday, yune 7, 1884. — Clear, yet little wind from the west; Shorty [Frederick] is up cooking.
Brainard said that he spent very pleasant night and rested better than he has for many weeks.

Burial service was read over the dead before breakfast. After breakfast the bodies were tied up by
Brainard, Long, and Frederick.

Upon searching the pockets of the dead lots of burned and unburned seal -skin and thongs were found
on the doctor and Bender both, which showed how dishonest they was.

I was too weak to do anything to-day and received a dose of medicine from Biederbick. The evening
dinner consisted of seal-skin soles entirely, no shrimps being on hand, and the stew was enjoyed by all and
gave great satisfaction. I had a good stool in the evening.

Brainard and Long left camp at 8 p. m. It is found that only little seal-skin remains on hand to cook,
and that Henry evidently must have made a cache somewhere.

Although Henry has told before his death that I had eaten a lot of seal-skin, yet, although I am a dying
man, I deny the assertion he made against me. I only eat my own boots and a part of an old pair of pants
which I received from Lieutenant Kislingbury. Bender did not smell very well upon removal this morning.

Brainard and Long returned at * p. m.

* Omission in original, — A.W.G., Lieut.

532

THE LADY FRANKLIN BaY KXPKDITION.

Frederick done the cooking to-day. Hicderbick and Conncll were picking lichens and reindeer moss
for dinner. We are all getting very weak and Fredcrit:k s.iys he cannot stand it much longer. As far as I
can see we cannot exist but very iiitlc longer now. No more bait for shrimp catching, no chances to get
game, and only sealskin enough for a few stews more. I feel myseli going fast, but I wished that it would
go yet faster.

I moved into the tent to-day, and the commanding officer moved into Bender's single bag.

Although I stand accused of doing dishonest things here lately, I herewith, .is a dying man, can say
that the only dishonest thing which I have done is to have eaten my own seal-skin boots and the part of
my pants.

Sunday, yune 8, 1884. — Clear and warm. Hrainard and Long returned at i a. m., the former bringing
in about two pounds of shrimps, but Long had not seen any game. Both men completely exhausted. We
had shrimp stew for breakfast and seal-skin stew for dinner, together with roasteil pieces o{ Umiak, which I
prepared during the day. Although it i)roved very bitter food, yet it was eaten by every one of us.

Biederbick found a cache consisting of one pound of bear meat in a stocking and evidently stolen by
Henry; it was cooked in tlie evening stew and relished very much. After dinner I wrote up account of
Elison's trip of last fall after the English meat. Biederbick taken sick at dinner time. Iron was issued after
dinner and afforded great relief. Jkainard went to the shrimping grounds after dinner. Doctor's body
removed to the ice-foot by Brainard, Long, ami Frederick. The latter of these men does the cooking daily,
but the poor fellow is getting very weak. Long tried to go hunting, but had to give it up on account of the
work done by him during the day. Gardiner unable to do ci.ything. Commanding oflicer gathers lichens
and Connell gets saxifrage. Biederbick got lichens. Every one completely exhausted to-night; I and
Connell are suffering from scurvy. My knees are much swollen and I am unablf to walk any more.

Monday, yune 9, 1884. — Clear and warm. Brainard returned 1.15 am. vith two pounds of shrimps.
I roasted all the seal-skin after breakfast. Unable to walk, but crawled to the fire. Gardiner is very weak.
Commanding officer and Biederbick picking lichens for dinner.

Frederick cooks; had shrimp stew and remaining roasted sealskin for breakfast. Connell picking saxi-
frage to burn. We are on the point of starvation now, and every one is meeting their u.k* like men. Bender's
body was removed to a tidal crack. Long's birthday to-day. Every one of us much used up. The com-
manding officer about the strongest of us. Nothing except roasted hide and a cup of tea for dinner.
Frederick hardly able to arise and get breakfast. Dinner at 4 ]). m., and Brainard and Long leave camp
[after] dinner and returned 11 p. m. Brainard did not get any shrimps on account of ice having given way,
and Long had not seen only few ducks.

Tuesday, yune 10, 1884.— Cloudy and cold, with wind from the west. Elison expressed a wish that his
bones should go to the United States to some museum. Gardiner was taken sick with inflammation of the
bowels. Biederbick, commanding officer, and myself picked lichens for the evenin s^ew, which consisted
only of lichens and a cup of tea.

Long and Brainard left camp after dinner. The latter returned 1 1.30 p. m., with two pounds of shrimps.

Connell is picking saxifrage to burn. Tea leaves are boiled second time for tea. Every one is getting
weaker, especially myself. I am hardly able to crawl. Frederick is doing the cooking and work around
the camp, but he says he is falling fast. Biederbick does remarkable work.

Long returned i a. m. with Brainard; the former had killed a goose and a dovekie, but had been unable
to get only the dovekie, which was issued to them extra. Brainard only was able to get one pound of
shrimps.

Wednesday, J-une 11, 1884. — Clear, yet the light west wind goes through one. I had a stool, which
weakened me so that I was unable to pick even lichens. The commanding officer unable to pick any.

Long returned at 1.30 a. m. with 2 black guillemots ; one was ordered in to-night's stew, and the other
as extra ration for the hunters and cook. Biederbick alone is picking lichens. Connell got saxifrage. Long
and Brainard leave camp after dinner. The condition of Gardiner is very bad ; he cannot pass his bowels,
and Biederbick says he must surely die soon, and 1 feel that I must. Frederick is doing the cooking.

Brainard and Long left camp after dinner.

Thursday, yune 12, 1884. — Clear and warm. Long and Brainard returned at 12.45 ^* >"•> ^^ latter
had the bad fortune to lose his net by the floe moving out. Therefore we had only tea for breakf?.st and
nothing else. A flag was put up by Brainard on the hill. Connell and commanding officer in dispute over
lichens this morning; [Connell] showed disposition to gather food for himself.

THE T.ADY FIIANKLIN TUY KXPHDITION.

533

Poor (funliner died at ii a.m. from intlammatiun of the IkiwcIs and Btarvation; lie will be buried in
tlie ice-foot, as it is seen that the rest of the bodies are uncovering with every light wind, and are thus laid
\mt<: to animals.

Long did not get any game last night. I sewed on a shrimp-net to-day, but I had to lie helped up
in the bed. I feel myself going rapidly. The commanding otVuer, Hicderbitk, and C'onncll are gathering
lichens ; also, Long and Hrainard. Frederick is iloing the < ooking. Hrainard and Long went out after dinnor,
but they returned before 12 p. m., the former with only a few shrimps. He had to make a new shrimp pole.
Long dill not get any game. 'I'he lichens begin to give diarrhea to most.

Friday, yunt 13, 1884. — Great wind storm from the southward continued to blow all day. Diederbicic
was discharged to-day and received a certificate of the ilischargc owing to no blanks for finals [final state-
ments] and discharges are on hand. No one w.as able to go out to work. Frederick done the cooking; the
last fi-Hiiitk was cut to pieces, roasted, and divided. Long and Hrainard suflering from diarrhea. Hrainard
left camp after dinner in spite of the storm, in order to haul his nets, and returned 10 p.m. with about 2
pounds of shrimps. Long did not go out at all. I am getting very weak and can only move in my bag
under the greatest difficulty.

The flag-pole which poor Biederbick erected blew down during the storm.

Only little tea remains on hand now.

Saturday, yitne 14, 1884. — Cloudy, but warm. Commanding officer, Hicderbick, and Connell are pick*
ing lichens. Biederbick was re-enlisted to-tlay, and (iardiner was buried in tlic ice-foot by Hrainard, Long,
an<l Frederick. The latter is cooking and sawing the wood. Tiie Hag w.as erected again by Hrainard.
Flison's feet and hands were dressed by Biederbick. I am unable to get out today, anil am hardly able
to write my log-book up. A raven was heard around the camp, and a seal and walrus were seen by Con-
nell, but Long seems unable to go out on account of weakness. Hrainard was very much used up last
night, yet he is in good spirits and expects a ship every day now. The gale subsided about 3 a. m. this
morning. F^lison was able to make water by himself. Hrainard and Long left camj) after ilinner; the
former got i i)ound of shrimps, the latter nothing, but had seen plenty walrus near the shore. Both of
them returned at i a. m.

Sunday, yune 15, 1884. — Fair, but cold; temperature 7 a. m., +30.0 [—1.1° C], and some snow had
fallen during the night. Hrainard and Long returned i a. m. Connell made a remark this morning about
each one for himself now, which caused the commanding officer some uneasiness. Two of us, F^lison and
myself, are unable to do anything. We are living on only a few lichens and shrimps now, and only tea
enough for two meals more. Brainard and Long i)ick and turn their lichens into the general mess. The
guns are put out of reach of Connell, for he is very strong yet. The commanding officer, Biederbick, and
Crtnnell are all out after lichens. F'rederick is doing the cooking. Many walrus and seals were seen by
Long near the shore; the ice-foot is going fast and he expects to kill one of them on the beach. The sun
was shining quite bright at i p.m., but the temperature remained low; only ruse to +34.0 [+i.i°C.].
Brainard went out after dinner and got one pound of shrimps, but Long did not kill any game.

Monday, yune 16, 1884. — Wind blowing from the N. The last of the tea for breakfast. Nobody
able to get up except Frederick, who cooks. Minimum thermometer No. 590 found by Brainard to-day
and again exposed. Sleeping-bag cover roasted and boiled for supper to suit each one. No fluid for sujiijer
to-night, not even hot water. Iron was issued. Brainard left camp, but did not get any shrimps, there
being no more baits, and the shrimps will not bite on tanned seal-skin. He returned 12 p. m. Connell is
suffering from sore gums. I am only able to sew on boots and keep up the diary. Had to make my stool
in the tent by assistance of Brainard and Long. Every one is getting weaker. I had my [sealj skin
boiled; so did Connell and F^Hson. Frederick's strength is failing fast, too. Long is suffering from his
bowels, yet he went out, but could not get at the birds on account of the bad ice; he returned a few minutes
after 1 2 p. m.

Tuesday, yune 17, 1884. — Fair, but cool, yet the commanding officer, Biederbick, and Connell are
out picking lichens for six hours. Biederb\ck also dressed Fllison's feet and hands. I am unable to use my
legs, but after being helped up I sewed a patch on Braiiiard's boots. He will haul his nets once more, and
if unsuccessful, give it up after to-day and begin picking lichens with the others. Saxifrage tea was tried
for breakfast, but only appreciated by Connell, Biederbick, F-lison, and myself. Frederick is doing the
cooking again to-day and Brainard went to the hut after wood. The commanding officer picked two cans

634

THE LADY FEANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

of lichens to-day. The last of the skin was divided to day. The weather cleared up and it was very warm
in the afternoon. Connell is off a good ways picking lichens; he is very strong yet in his legs. Only one
meal is cookeil a day now, as Frederick is getting so weak ; yet it is remarkable how he keeps up at all on
this food with the work which he does.

Appendix No. 126. — Driftivood.

, ' -1

li! ! ,

No. I. Cedar; evidemly limb from tree, with bark:

Ft. Int.

Crcalest circumference, main limb.. 22^'^

Least circumference, main limb loj^

Extreme length, main limb 2 8|4

No. 2. Evide tly resinous \food, possibly jiine ; cither branch or the extreme lower part
of tree growing in rocky soil on hill :

Split surface ..... 21

Extreme length 2 II

Circumference, top I S

Circumference, l)Oltom I 3

Circumference, largest part a 1

No. 3. Poplar ? Bark and wood inodorous and tasteless ; frequent with heart split out
or gone;

Length .

Greatest diameter

No. 4. Pine? Dug out of sand about 200 yards [183'"] above high water level; altitude
20 to 30 feet f6 to 9 meters]; very much worn:
Circumference (not whole tree)

Length

No. 5. Pine? Fragment of tree or limb, with probably a diameter of 4 to 6 inches
[102'"™ to isa"™]:
Length

Vidtli .

No, >. Cedar limb:

Length

largest diameter .
Snulli X diameter .

No. 7. Pine; fi-agment from tree at least 5 or 6 inches [127""" or 152"""] in diameter:
Length

Width .

No. 8. Pine; fragiaint from limb about 2>^ to 3"/^ inches [64"'"' to 89°""] in diameter:

Length

Circumference

No. 9. Pine; fragment from limb or tree at least 6 inches [152"""] in diameter:

Length ..

Width '".'.'. '.'.".'. :'...

No, 10. Had large tufts of grass growing in alluvium which had collected therein;
main trunk of tree (cedar?):

Length _,.

Greatest diameter

Diameter below first limb

Diameter of top

571
267

82s

533
886

432
381
63s

914

5>i

130

18 V

462

i 4'/2

724

457

I 10

559

120

279

. 4>i

IDS

IO"4

267

81;^

a 9

838

fT4

437

xb}i

414

6'A

"55

THE LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

No. II. Only piece which has been worked; surface eaten into by worms:

Length . .

Circumference (uniform) . . . . ...

535

Ft, Int. mm.

2 6 76a

Appendix No, 127. — List of photographs and description of Eskimo relics in photographic plates.

Page.
Our House at Conger (west side), March, 1882.

(Frontispiece.)

Godhavn, Greenland, July 19, 1881 2

Ritenbenk.Greenland, July 21. 1881 2

Proven, North Greenland, July, 1881 4

Danish Eskimo at Proven, North Greenland 4

6, Site of Polaris House, Life-boat v 3ve (occupied in

1872), July, 1881 6

7. Proteus in ice, entrance to Discovery Harbor, August

12, l88i._. 6

Musk-cattle killed on Mt. Cartmel, near Conger,

August 12, 1881 8

Head of musk-ox killed near Conger 8

Coal mine, Water-cours: Ravine, with reflected

image 12

View of ice from Cape Murchison, looking towards

Thank God Harbov, June, 1882 29

Musk calves, October, 1882. Captured near Conger,

June, 1 882. Sergeint Frederick 30

Floeberg in St. Patrick Bay, June, 1882 44

9-
10.

II.

P»ge.

13-

14. Pressed up Floeberg. Breakwater Point, Lady

Franklin Bay, June, 1882

15. Chandler Fiord, looking westward. Ida Bay !.■ i-

treme left 236

1 6. Paleocrystic ice in Robeson Channel 246

17. Tide-gauge at Cape Baird 268

18. Eskimo relics found in vicinity of Conger. PI I.. 536
Eskimo relics found at junction Lake Hazen and

Ruggles River, June, 1882. PI. II. 536

Eskimo relics from Basil Norris and Sun Bays. PI.

ni -. 536

Eskimo relics. Greater number found south side of

Lake Hazen, June, 1882. PI. IV 536

Eskimo relics found at Cape Baird. PI. V 536

Modern Greenland and ancient Eskimo sledge. PI.

VI 536

Arctic Highlander from Cape York 536

Arctic Highlanders from North Star SeUlement,

Saunders' Island S3''

Trout caught in Lake Alexandra, about 8 miles

from Conger .. (vol. 2, face page 55.)

19,

20.

22.
23-

24.
2S-

26.

DESCRIPTION OF ESKIMO RELICS IN PHOTOGRAPHIC PLATES.

Plate No. i {beginning at left upper corner, and going
across).

1. Dog-harness toggle — appears to be of walrus-ivory, with

two rounded slots.

2. Piece of a " long " bone or antler beam, cut off square on

ends and slightly curved with a lanyard hole through

upper end; perhaps a knife handle.
Body of toggle-head of harpoon, point downwards. Of

the pattern common at Smith Sound, with the blade

slit at right angles to the plane of the barb.
Cylindrical rod of bone slightly expanded it lower end

and at the other tapered to a rounded tang, with a

couple of little lugs on it, not opposite. The foreshaft

of an arrow (?) or dart (?).
Small flat oblong piece of bone.
5*. Fragment (the bottom) of a stone lamp, which appei.rs

to have been nearly circular — an unusual shape.
Bow drill, made of a single tajiering piece of bone, largest

near the butt, which is tapered away to fit the .outh-

piece. Tip worked down to a slender drill point.
Stout tapering rod of bone, with one end sharp-pointed —

looks like an ice-pick.
Curved fragment of bone, apparently the tip of a rib.
Irregular broad long piece of coai^e Imne, perhai» part

of a sled.
Second row: Long flat piece of l)one, with an oblong

slot in one end, and the other worked into a small knob.

Probably |iart of a spliced lione Ixjw.
a. Irregular long, fragment of bone.

S"-

8.
9-

10.

11^. Flat oblong piece of bone, with a round hole through
each end and a transverse furrow across one end. A
"strap" for splicing tog-jther two pieces of wood, or
mending a broken article.

12. Oblong piece of bone, apparently a wedge.

137. Epiphysis of whale's vertebra, perhaps used as a dish.

131^. Wooden sheath for lance-head, in' two parts las'-cd to-
gether with thong or sinew.

14. Small wedge-shaped piece of bone, which looks as if it
might be a bone adz-blade.

15^. A square block of wood.

15*. Small wedge-shaped piece of bone.

ISC Piece of birch bark (?).

16. .Stout lx)ne " loosf! shaft " of harpoon.

17. Lengthwise across bottom of sheet : Long slender pointed

rod of bone, perhaps a seal detector.

18. Piece of a bore sled-runner, with rivet-holes.

Plate No. 2.

1. Canine tusk of walrus-calf, old and weathered.

2. Stick of wood apparently chamfered off at one end.

3. Rough bone Ixjdkin.

4. Bone or ivory marline-spike for sinew-working.

5. Tapering rod of boMc, sharp-pointed at lower end, with a

rough knob on upper, perhaps a.ho a marline-spike.

6. Short rod of bone, pointed at each end.

7. Rough slender rod of l)one, witli alxiut one-fifth of iti

length bent at right angles to the rest. Looks like
the handle of a small blubber hook.

536

THK LADY FKANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION.

'i|t|

Hllii

8.
9-

II.

12.

«3-
14.

'S-
16.

>7-

18.

•9

20.

21.

22.

23.

24.

25-

26.

27-

28.

7
8

9
to,
II

Blade of a snow-knife, of bone, broad and |x)inted.

Implement like No. 5.

Marlin-.-T^ike, flat, four-sided, and rather broad for
3'x}ut 01 e-tliird of its length, then rounded and taper-
'.ng to a blunt point ; bone.

Blade of small, straight, pointed Ixine knife, with a
broad tang pierced with a rivet-hole.

Short rod of coarse bone.

Third row : Short piece of .ded-runner with rivet -holes ;
lH)ne.

Piece of reindeer skin ironi belly or flank, with long,
coarse, white hair.

Short fragment of f.le 1-runner of bone, with rivet-holes.

Fourth row: Shoit cylindrical tube of bone. Cap for
sled upstander.

Bone tool, precisely the shape of the stone adies from
Point Barrow.
. Hair combs, essi ntially of the common Eskimo pattern.

Ulu or woman's knife, with iron blade and bone handle.
Of the shapr used by the western Eskimos and not
of the Gree'iland pattern.

Fragment of comb like 20 and 21.

Small spade shaped implemen', 'vhlch may be an unfin-
ished con b.
. Dog-hamejs and toggles, apparently of ivory.

Fifth row: Haft and part of blaue of wooden snow-
knife. Smith Sound pattern.

Fragment of sled-runner, with rivet -holes.

Long piece of hone, with a deep groove along middle,
from one end about ^/ of length. Perhaps a spear-
socket split in two.

Across bottom; Long piece of narwhal "horn;"
ends broken off. Probably part of a .spear-shaft.

Plate No. 3.

Short, sharp blade of bone, with broad flat tang. Per-
haps an ice-pick.

Bone "loose-shaft" of har|K)on.

Second row : Wedge-shaped i)iece of bone.

I'iece of bone resembling a whale-harpoon togple-
head i ody.

Appears to be a bone snow -knife.

2-barbed body of harpoon toggle-head.

Bone beluga (?) dart-head.

Oblong flat piece of bone, perforated for a rivet. Per-
haps fragment of sled-runner.

Tip of walrus-tusk, sawed off" and perforated in base.

Tip of walrus-tusk, sawed off and perfor.iled in base.

Wedge-shaped fragment of bone.

12. Third row: Angular iragment of bone.

13. Fragment of bone with a groove across it.

14. Perhaps a seal club.

15. Bone knob for staff (?).

16. Foreshaft of harpoon.

I'/. Fourth row: Irregular long fragment of Ixjne.with a
notch in one edge,

18. Oblong flat piece of kone with a groove across each

end. Part of a sled (?).

19. Bit of bone sled-runner, with rivet-holes.

20. I.arge fragment of sled-iunner (?).

Plate No. 4,

1. Unfinished sled-runner, whale's jaw.

2, 3. Bone sled-runners.
4, 5. Bo.ie snow-knives.

6. Piece of bone narrow at tip and spreading out at base

where it is perforated for rivets or lashings.

7. Piece of sled-runner.

8. Bone snow-knife.

9. F°lat stick, capped with bone at one end.

10. Snow-knife of bone with handle wedged into groove in

butt.
11,12. Bone sled-runners.

Plate No. 5.

1. Piece of shoe to sled-runner.

2. Piece of bone ; use unknown.

3. Eskimo lamp of steatite.

4. Probably point of a lance.

5. Probe to detect the presence of a seal at the breathing-

hole. (?;

6. Probably fragment of probe; use same as No. 5.

7. Piece of bone ; use unknown.

8. Probably butt of a bird-dart prong.

9. 10. Pieces of bone ; use unknown.
11-16. Pieces of shoe to sled-runner. '

17. Probably part of bucket handle.

18. Probably point of a lance.

Plate No. 6.

1. Sled of modem Greenland pattern, made of pine and

lashed with seal-thong.

2. Sled of ancient Greenland pattern, somewhat dilapi-

dated. Runners of driftwood, shod with bone.
See Nos. 11-16, Plate No. ij. Three cross-pieces of
wood and upstanders of whale-rib, lashed on with
thong.

Appendix No. 128. — List of maps and charts.

Page.

1. Fort Conger, Grinnell Land lo

2. Map showing drift, travel, and discoveries on retreat.. 58

3. Chart of North Greenland Coast 186

Page.

4. Chart showing excursion of steanla'.mchZai/cirrrt^. 236

5. Chart showing route o! sledge cx|)edition, 1883 25a

6. M.-.p of Grinne'l Laisd .. At end of volume.

The Lady Kranklin Bay Expedition, Vol. 1,

Plate I.

[

Eskimo Relics Found in Vicinity of Fort Conger.

(From a photograph.)

The L»dy Frtnklin U«y Bxncditlun, Vol. '

Plate II.

J'sKiMo Relics Found at Junction of Lakk Uazkn and Ruggles River, June, 1882.

O'"roin a photograph.)

The Udy Fraaklin Bay Bxpedition, Vul. 1.

Plato III.

Eskimo Relics Found at and in Vicinity ok Basil Nokris and Sun Bays.

(From a photograph.)

,'1

A :

E?
r<

o
B o

I §

a o

-g^ Cfr jjU^.^. ^ ^^»1""^'"P

pn
m
•/

s -
,. •/

3 n

o
r

- >

«j«p«wiiPT-ufflin(llw,>;v.5VTWja|

^f. ■ ''■

',1
11

V ijMtiii:i;ii«ii iiiiiiiniiiw IIVI13": I'" I '"I.

55H3i^^

>■

I ii

AKiTIc- llKilll A^lll.l<^ IKOM NciKlll SlAK SK H IIMINT, SAIMURS ISLAND.
(Krom a iihotograph by Reliel lixpcilitiun.)

INDEX.

Air, collection of samples, 13, 103.

Alcohol, value as food, 85-86, 349.

Alcohol fumes, asphyxir.tion by, 81, 338, 433, 496-497.

Aldrich, Lieutenant, cache at View Point, 173.

cited on coast of Grinnell Land, 126.
Alert, records obtained at Thank Go<l Harbor, 149-1 55.

traces and cairn at Floeberg Beach, 172-173.
Alexandra Fiord, 358.

Alexandra Harbor, trip to, 79-80, 430-431, 491-493,
Alfred Newton Glacier, location of quarters, 65.
Allman Bay, 58, 374-380.
Altitudes, Grinnell Land, 295.
Ames, Dr., skill and attention, 91.
Amusements, 335, 344.
Anemometers, instructions, 102,
Annelida, list of collections, 310.
Apparatus, memorandum of outfit, 107.
Appendices, list, 95-96.

Appropriation, amount available after charter of vessel, 2.
Archer, Lieutenant, cache at Hillock Depot, 29, iSo.

cited on topography of Grinnell Land, 126.

copy of records left at Thank God Harlx>r, 149-155.
Archer Fiord, 9, ic, 29, 32, 126-127.

report of trip into, and depot at, 23, 179-180.

report of launch trip, 35, 234-235.
Arms and ammunition, furnished by Chief of Ordnance, 2.
Arthur Land, 45, 290.
Astronomical apparatus, list, 107.
Astronomical observations, instructions, loo-ioi.

Cape Baird, 266-267.
Aurora, connection with magnetic disturbances, 38, 39.

instructions for observations, 103, 104.

Bache Island, geography, 61, 80, 358.

Baird Inlet, report of trip to, 82, 358-361.

Barometer, Garlington's abandoned, use and breakage, 71, 88.

instructions for comparison, 102.
Bears, 4, 36-37, 83, 88, 504-505.

most northern point reached by, 163, 167.
Beatrix Bay, 45, 275, 283, 293.

Beaumont, Lieutenant, caches and records left by, 27, 42, 43,
186, 198,211,212.

copy of records left at Stanton Gorge and Fepulse Har-
boT, 225-228.

Beaumont Island, 187 pi. i.

Beebe, W. M., relief-exi')edition caches and records, 66, 68,
457-458-

copy of records left at Brevoort Island by, 352-354.
Beechey Valley, 131, 139.

Belcher, Sir E., cited on coast of Grinnell Lu !, 1 26.
Bellot Island, 29, 34.
" Bellows," report on trip to, 10, 23, 124-125, 181-183.

position and magnetic bearings, 181-182.
Bench-mark, establishment, 8.
Bender, Private, 15, 19, 22, 29, 71.

insubordination, 76, 78, 86-87, 376, 483, 486, 487, 490,
5 '4.

de.^th and statement of services, 90, 524, 525.
Biederbick, Private, 23,28,30,31,33,39,47,51,90,91.

rejwrt of trip up Black Rock Vale, 28, 233.

value of services, 79.

recommendation of appointment on retired list, 93.

medical report as steward, 334-339.

promotion to hospital steward, 493.
Birds, flight to be observed, 104. '

lists of collections, 299, 305-307.
Black Cape, 20, 21, 169, 171.
Black Cliffs, 131.
Black Horn Cliffs, 43, 188, 197, 212, 250-251.

tidal observations, 256.
Black Rock Valley, 28, 29, 33, 36.

magnetic bearings, 181-182,233-234.
Bleak Cape, location and description, 1 24-
Blubber, value as fuel, 411.
Blue Cape, 203.

Boats, left near Cape Camperdown, 61.
Books, list of outfit, 107.
Botany, orders and report of Dr. Pavy, 45-46, 297, 299-300.

lists of collections, 299-300, 302-304.
Brainard, Serjeant, 11, 29, 34, 40, 48, 53, 54,55, 61,62,64,

72-73.75.79.86.91-

report on establishing depot at Cape Beechey, 8, 1 1 5-1 1 7.

report on atten)pted trip towards United States Moun-
tains, lo-ll.

orders and report on trip to Greenland coast, 17, 158-162.

value of services and recommendation for promotion,
28,45.47.49.87.

report on trip to Carl Ritter Bay, 37, 38, 239-242.

537

♦

538

INDEX.

p<y^'\

i: ill

Biainard, Sergeant, report on trip to Cape Cracroft, 44-45,
270-273,
report on Lieutenant Lockwood's trip towards the

United States Mountains, 48, 317-319.
advice for retreat from Victoria Head, 60, 377.
illness, 77.

instructions to, in case of death of commanding offi-
cer, 85, 86.
journal from August 26, 1883, 92,441-529.
letter and abstract of sledge journal on North Green-
land coast, 215-224.
report on trip to Carl Ritter Bay, 239.
report on fossils found at Greely Fiord, 296.
transfer to Signal Corps, 505.
Brainard Island, 25, 206-207, 208.
Brenta Bay, 215.

Brevoort Island, copy of relief-expedition records from, 351-
3S4-
Nares' record and Discovery depot, 353.
Brevoort Peninsula, route across, 186.
Buchanan Strait, 60.
Buys- Ballot Glacier, 209.

Cape Albert, position, 61.

Cape Baird, establishment of depot at, 12, 39-40.

topography, 35, 270-271.

astronomical observations, 44, 266-267.

tidal and ice observations, 44, 265, 268.

cairn and record left, 51, 350-351.
Cape Beaufort, 119.
Cape Beechey, report on establishment of Depot B, 8, 1 15-1 18.

reports of trips to, 127-130, 142-143, 156-157.

position, 44, 270.

orders and report on tidal observations, 44, 264-^65,
269-270.

list of provisions at Depot B, 142.
Cape Benit, 25, 204, 209.
Cape Brainard, 45, 289.
Cape Britannia, 24-25, 187, 188 pi. i, 203.

cairn and record left, 202, 232.

coast north from, c'escription and sketch, 202-203.
Cape Bryant, Beaumont's cache, 27, 212, 212.

failure of tidal observations, 26.

ice foot, 27.

coast north from, 188.

cairn and record left, 198-199, 232,

list of stores cached, 232.
Cape Camperdown, position, and abandonment of boats, 61,
379-380.

copy of record left in boats, 351.
Cape Christiansen, rocks and vegetation, 189.

sketch and position, 207-208.
Cape Collinson, Nares' cache, 54-55, 371-372.
Cape Constitution, 122.
Cape Defosse, 35, 238, 239-240.
Cape Cracroft, reixirts on tidal observations and fossils, 270-

273-
Cape Frazer, 55.
Cape Frederick, 25, 122, 188.
Cape Fulford, cairn and record left, 224.
Cape Hr.wks, English cache, 5, 57-58, 374,441.
Cape H;cla, 20, 175.

Cape Hoffmeyer, 25, 205, 209.

cairn and record left, 209.
Cape Isabella, English cache, 69, 70-71, 72, 354-356, 393,
396-397. 4<5o. 462. 465-467-

copy of record left, 438.
Cape Israel, 80.
Cape Joseph Henry, orders and report on trip north of, 17,

18-19,20-21, 165-178.
Cape Kane, 25, 26, 206, 207, 208.
Cape Lawrence, 53, 370-37 «•
Cape Lieber, 6, 238.
Cape Lock wood, 45, 290.
Cape T oT!g, So, 492.
Cape Lupton, 145.
Cape McClintock, 55.
Cape Mohn, 25, 205.

cairn and record, 209.
Cape Murchison, report of trips to, 9, 1 19-120.
C«po iv'apoleon, 57. ^

Capt. Norton Shaw, 55.
Cape Payer, 209.
Cape Ralston, 209.
Cape Ramsay, 187 pi. ii, 205, 208.
Cape Rawson, 172.
Cape Rutherford, 357.
Cape Sabine, plan for reaching, 60, 64, 67, 446, 449.

caches, 66, 68, 69, 351-352, 387-392, 457-458.

removal from Eskimo Point to, 68-69, 458-461.

quarters, description and cuts, 354, 394-395.

storehouse, 394, 464.
Cape Sheridan, 21, 172.
Cape Stephens, 358.
Cape Sumner, 41, 146-147, 191, 249.

tidal observations, 257-258.
Cape Surprise, 25.

Cape Union, coast northward from, 168, 169, 170.
Cape Viele, 357-358.
Cape Washington, 26, 205, 208.
Cape VVijkander, 205, 209.
Carl Ritter Bay, depot, 6, 51.

orders and reports on trips to, 35, 37, 38, 237-238,
239-242.

record left, 238, 240.
Cary Islands, Nares' cache, 4.

plan of retreat to, 67.

record left, 109.
Chandler Fiord, 21, 31, 32.

report of launch trip up, 35, 236, pi.
Chief of Engineers, scientific instruments furnished by, 2,
Chief of Ordnance, arms and ammunition furnished by, 2.
Chipp Inlet, 187 pi. ii.

Christiansen, F. T., Eskimo. See Frederik Thorlip Chris-
tiansen.
Christmas, 14, 39, 74, 408-409, 475. *
Clay, H., employment and subsequent relief, 3, 7.

recommendations for relief expedition, 462.

camp at Cape Sabine named for, 462.
Clothing, furnished by Quartermaster-General, 2, 98.

purchased at Upernivik and Proven, 3.

list for North Greenland exploration, 230.

report of commanding officer on, 335, 340.
louds, instructions for observations, 102,

INDEX.

539

Coal, traces and seams found, lo, 13, 31, 49, S>> 122, 125,
181,233.
amount on hand for retreat, 51, 58.
report on Watercourse Bay, III.
Coast and Geodetic Survey, scientific instruments furnished
by, 2.
pendulum, tidal, and magnetic observations reduced

by, 14-15.44.50-

instructions for magnetic observations, 105-106.
Cobb River, 34.

Cocked Hat Island, attempt to reach, 61-64, 380-383.
Commissary-General, stores furnished by, 2,98, 108-109.
Conical Hill, search for pemmican left by Markham, 173.
Conger, t). D., station named in honor of, 7.
Conger Inlet, 207, 208.
Conger Mountains, 32.
Connell, Sergeunt, 1 1, 18, 22, 23, 29, 47, 54, 60.

reduction, 387,457.
Constant weights, 24, 41, 186, 193, 199, 254, 317.
Conybeare, Lieutenant, search for depot left in Sun Bay by, 9.
Conybeare Bay, 21.
Cooking at Cape Sabine, 71-72.
Cross, Private, 15, 19,34,49.

intoxication, and relief from duty, 51-52, 369, 388, 454,
458.

death and burial, 75, 416, 454, 458, 480.
Crozier Island, 20.
Crustacea, list of collections, 309.
Currents, southeast, off Cape Dudley Digges, 4.

observations to be made, 104.

report on Cape Beechey, 118.

Daly Peninsula, 35, 239.

Deaths, list, with date and cause, 338, 365.

report of commanding officer on cause, 348.
Decoration day, observance, 23, 46.
De Long Fiord, 205.
Depot Crossing Bay, English record, 225.
Depot Point, search for English cache, 235.
Devil's Head, 124, 125.
Diaries, order to Dr. Pavy, refusal to comply, arrest and charges,

48-49. 3«9.3*«-322-
instructions relative to, loi.
copy of Lieutenant Lockwood's, 366-440.
copy of Sergeant Brainard's, 441-529.
extract from Private Schneider's, with letters on finding,

529-534-
Dip-circle, error in forwarding, 30.
Discovery, records from, 6, iii, 149-155. 353-

articles abandoned, 9, 1 19.

decoration of head-stones of dead, 23.

cache near Brevoort Island, 353.
Discovery Harbor, location of station, 6.
Distant Cape, 118, 127, 129, 138, 203.
Dobbin Bay, 57.

Dog food, amount consumed on Greenland trip, 254.
Dogs, purchased at Godbavn and Kitenbenk, 3.

loss from contagion with those puichoseil at Upemivik, 4.

puppy team, 19.

harness eaten by, 41, 170, 246.

speed, with light and loaded sledges, 42.

Dogs, abandoned at Fort Conger, 49.
Dragon Point, English cairn and record, 226.
Drift Point, 312-213, 222, 253.

Drift-wood, 9, 10, 11, 33, 55, 124, 128-129, 189, 195, 235,
525, 528.

instructions for observations, 104.

list of collections, 313-314.

list, description, and outs of specimens, 534-535.

Karth currents, instructions for observations, 104.

Edward, Jens, Eskimo. See Jen.s Edward.

Eggs, list of specimens, 316-317.

Eggs of knot, description, 47.

Elbcrg, Mr., diseased dogs purchased from, 4.

Electricity, atmosjiheric, observations to be made, 104.

Elison, Corporal, 15, 22, 28, 30, 41, 46, 71, 77, 78.

report of trip to Carl Ritter Bay, 35, 237-238.

value of services, 47, 92.

rescue and subsequent illness, 72-76, 355-356, 396-397,
465-467.

death, 92, 338. • ^

Elison Island, 187 pi. i, 2113.
Ella Bay, 45, 235, 274-275, 278, 280-281.
Ellis, Private, 17, 30, 47.

death, 88, 518.
Emory, Lieutenant, 91.

Envall, Dr., cited on use of liquors in Arctic regions, 349.
Eric, record found at Littleton Island, 5.
Eskimo Point, stay at, during retreat, 65-68, 386-388, 454-

458.
Eskimo relics, 28- .<9, 31, 33, 34, 47, 55, 65, 235, 236, 240,
499.500,501,525.

list of collections, 311-312.

list ind description of photographs, 535-536, pi. i-vi.
Eskimos, character and treatment, 14,

value in extended sledge journeys, 168.
Evaporation, instructions for observations, 104.
Exercise, 327, 335, 344, 346.

"Farthest North," 25-26.

description, sketch, and determination of position, 187 pi.
ii, 207-208.

copy of record left, 232.
Fire, in officers' quarters at Fort Conger, 39.
Fires, allowed to die down during night, 43.
Fishes, list of collections, 308.
Floeberg Beach, visit to English cairn and deposit of record,

21, 172-173-
Foehn, 39.

Fog, delay caused by, 4, 5 1 , 53, 54.
Food, weekly allowance for second winter, 36.

amount on hand for return trip, 51, 58, 59.

amount on hand on reaching Sabine Island, 65.

arrangements for division, 71, 84.

thefts of, 92-93.

list of subsistence stores taken, with remarks, 108-109.

report of commanding officer on, 342-349.

bill of fare November 8-15, 1883, 396.

See, also. Ration.
Fort Conger, abandonment, 49, 50-51, 322-323, 366-369.

copy of order for abandonment, 322.

540

INDEX.

E 'tsj

Fort Conger, list of stores left, 323, 440,
Fossils, 35.45.47.290.

report on Cape Cracroft, 272-273.
report on (ireely Fiord, 296.
list of collections, 314-315.
Foxes, wintering in Grinnell Land, 42.
Frankfield Bay, coast north from, 198.
Frederick, I'rivate, 15, 22, 28, 29, 46, 52, 56, 76, 77, 79.
value of services, 71-72, 83.
report on trip to Cape Isabella and rescue of Elison,

7*. 354-356.
promotion and transfer to Signal Corps, 83, 89, 489-

490.
report of trip to Baird Inlet, 83, 358-361.
recommendation of appointment on retired list, 93.
Frederik Thorlip Christiansen, Eskimo, 3, 10, 14, 18, 20, 29, 40,
48, 51, 6;, 6S. 69, 72, 79-So.
lllnLSS, death, and statement of services, 81, 83, 83,
437. 502-

Game, near Tort Conger, 34.

west of C;rinnell I.ind Di' ide, tfo.
Gap Valley, 188, 213, 221, 250.

lidal observations, 257.
Garden, failure, 23.
(jardintr, Sergeaiil, 10, 13,35,47.

report on trip to Cape Murcliison and routes in St.

Patrick Bay, 9, 119.
orders and report on tidal and ice observations at Cane

Baird, 44, 265, 268.
report on fossils collected at C.".pe Cracroft, 44-45, 272-

273.
death and statement of services, 91, 526, 53-;.
Gardinei Bay, 209.
Garfield Mountains, r 32, 275.
Garlington, Lieutenant, 58,457-458,475,493,

recor I and cache left at Cape .Sabine, 66, 68, 69.
copy of record left at Brevoort Island, 351-352.
Geographical \'ork, .summary, 50,438.

instructions, 99.
Glacier, description and cut, 278 pi. i-iii, 281-282,
Godhavn, purchase of dogs and stores at, 2-3.
Gorge Creek, 213.

Grcely, Lieutenant, commanding officer, report, 1-93.
trip to Sun Bay, 9.

attempted trip to United States Mountains, 10.
exploration of interior of Grinnell Land, 19, 21-22, 29,

3«- 34-
illncFs, 86, 506-510, 5, j.
or.ler assigning to command, 97, 99.
reixirt on hygiene of expedition, 339-349.
extract from journal showing discoveries in Hayes

.Sound, 357-358-
certificate to Dr. Pavy, and letter to Chief Signal Offi-
cer on same, 362-363.
report to Secretary of War on execution of Private

Henry, 363-364.
letter to Chief Signal Officer, transmitting diary of Pr:
vate Schneider, 529-530.
Greely Fiord, 45, 277 pi. iii-iv, 289-290, 296.
Green, Dr., skill and attention, 91.

Greenland coast, orders and reports on preliminary trips in
1882, 15, 17, 142-143, 144-148, 156-162.
orders and reports on exploration in 1882, 18, 22, 23-

28, 182-232 pi. i-ii, map.
orders and report on preliminary trip in 1883, 40,41,

243-245-
orders and report on exploration in 1883,41,43,247,

249-255 ch.
plans for retreat to, 60, 63, 77.78.356-357.382,422-

423-
vegetation, 189.

list of distances traveled, 230, 254.
report on tidal and meteorological observations, 255-259.
Grimm, Corporal, desertion, 2.

Grinnell Land, exploration of interior, 19, 21-22, 29, 31-34, 50,
orders, report, and journal of trip across, 43, 45, 48, 274-

296 pi. i-iv, 317-319.
argiirii'nt for sea west of, 126.
ta jle of distances and altitudes across, 294-295.
Grinnell Land Divide, 35, 276-277, 287-288, 291, 293, 317-
318.

Hall, Captain, visit to grave, 16, 145, 260, 262.
Hall Basin, condition of ice in summer of 1882, 34,
Hand, J., visit tr grave, 16. 145, 260-262.
Hand Bay, 212, 223.
Ilarley's Spit, 172, 173.

Hawkins, Major, super i^ision of commissary stores, 2.
Hayes .Sound, So, 357-358.
Hazeu Coast, 23-28.

Hcalth,monthly report of commanding officer, 8, 11, 12, 13, 14,
15. «6, 23.30.34.38,39.40.42,43.46,48,49,59,
74. 76, 82.

order restricting use of beds, 37.

hygiene at Fort Conger, 16.

letter of Dr. Pavy on early spring field-woik, with reply,
40-41, 242-243.

first signs of weakness, 75.

medical report on trip to Thank God Harbor, 264.

medical reports of Dr. Pavy, 324-334.

medical report of Steward Biederbick, 334-339.

report of commanding officer on hygiene, 339-349.
Henrietta Nesniith Glacier, 22,32.

Henry, Private, thefts of food, 72, 8:-82, 86, go, 434, 497, 498,
510,513,524,531.

insu'iordination, 76.

execution, 90, 9.1-93, ,i63-365, 523-524.

report of commanding officer on execution, with letter
from .Secretary of War, 36 , 364.
Hillock Depot, Lngli.sh cache, 29, 180.
Hoar frosl, ir.structions lor observations, 103.
Hooker, J. 1)., cited on vegetation of Grinnell Land, 126.
Howgate, Capt.iin, pemmican furnished by, 3.
Humidity .^hs(■; vatiuns, intructions, 102.
Hunt Fion;, 26, 208.
Hygiene, report of commanding officer, 339-349.

Ste, also. Health.

Ice, Greenland coast to Fort Conger, l88l, ?, 5, 6.

thickness at en'' f month, 8, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16,23,
30. 3'. 38. 39. 40, 42. 4^. 74-

INDEX.

541

Ice, time nf opening, 29, je, 31.

II til n.-ikin and Kennedy Channel, summer of 1883,

34-35. 36, 38.

Kane Basin, August, 1 883, 58.

Smith Sound, 1884, 78, 79-80, 87, 486-488.

rc|x)rt on paleocrystic, 44, 163, 268-269.

itiratification of floebcrgs, 44, 268.

mer ile glace in interior of (Irinnell Land, 45, 276, 277-
278 pi. ii, 281-282.

diflTiculty of crossing after new ice forms, 54, 66-67.

instructions for observations, 104.

character of Tolar Ocean, 173-174, 174-177.

character of North Greenland coast, 188-189.
Icebergs, 240, 278.
Iceboat, left at Thank God Harbor by Lieutenant Beaumont,

42.43-
Insects, list of collections, 308.
Instructions, general conduct of the expedition, 99-100.

scientific observations, 100-107.
Instruments, scientific, furnished by Chief of Engineers and

Coast and Geodetic Survey, 2.
International imlar conference, instructions for observations,

instruments and time, 101-104.
International iK)lar stations, origin and number, i.
Israel, Sergeant, 14, 36, 61, 88.

rejOTrt en trip into the Bellows, 23, l8r-l82.
illness, death, and character, 88, 89, 516-521.
orders and report on astronomical observations at Cape
Baird, 266-267.
"Issue-day," 71.

Jeannette, search for traces, 8, 10, 11, 17,20, 120, 122, 130,

166, 167, 183.
loss learned by expedition, 390.
Jens Edward, Eskimo, 3, 15, 17, 18-19, 39. 76-77.
disappearance and rescue, 13.
drowning, 86, 511.
Jewell, Sergeant, 20, 22, 2?, 54, 55, 56, 57.

reports on trips to Lincoln Bay, 17-18, 41, 163-165,

246-247.
report on tidal and meteorological observations in North

Greenland, 43, 255-259.
orders and report on tidal observations at Cape Beechey,

44, 264-265.
report on paleocrystic ice, 44, 268-269.
report on tidal observations at Cape Beechey, 44, 269-

270.
death and statement of services, 83, 505.
meteorological report on trip to Cape Beechey, 117-

118.
report on trip from Cape Beechey to Greenland coast,

231-
Jewell Inlet, 205.
Joiner Bay, 55.
July 4, celebration, 30.

Kane Basin, retreat beset by ice in, 59-65, 372-385,442-451.

plans and advice for retreat from, 63, 383, 439, 450.
Kennedy Channel, condition of ice in summers of 1882 and

1883. 34. 35. 38. 48.
Kislingbury, Lieutenant, i, 52, 55, 62, 71, 81, 86.

Kislingbury, Lieutenant, report of trip to Life Boat Cove, 5,
no.
relief and suhsecpient connection with expedition, 7,
collection of lichens, 49.

advice fur retreat from Victoria Head, 60, 377.
insubordination, 60, 377, 387.
letter recommending division of party, 78, 356-357,

427-
ordered to duty, 83, 503.

recommendation of increase of ration, 84, 85, 361.
re<|uest for certiticate, and discussion resulting, 87.
illness and death, 89, 512, 514, 522.
letters, statement, and orders in connection with relief,
1 12-114.
Kislingbury Valley, 52.
Knot, description of egg, 47.

Lady Franklin Bay, order for location ol station, 97.

Lake Appleby, 31.

Lake Ha^en, description, 22, 31, 32, ^y

route to, 29, 36, 233-234.

vegetation, ^^. ' • -

Lake Heintzelman, 28.
Lake Rogers, 31.
Lectures, 16, 37, 73, 335.
Lichens, collection abandoned, 49,

value as food, 90, 348, 523, 528, 533.
Life Boat Cove, report of trip to, 5, no.
Lime-juice, issue, II, 16, 324-334, 344.
Lincoln Bay, orders and reports on trips to, 9-10, 17-18, 120-
123, 163-165, 167-170, 246-247.

report on trip to Fort Conger from, 178-179.
Linn, Sergeant, 8, 17, 22, 28, 31, 33, 72-73.

report on moving depot to Cape Murchison, 9, 119-
120.

report on trip into Black Rock Vale, 29, 233.

reduction and subsequent reappointment, 36, 457.

death and statement of services, 82, 83, 437, 502, 503.
Little Bay, cairn built, 205.
Littleton Island, 4.

reply to criticism relative to withdrawal to, 58-59.

attempted trip to, 76-77, 483-487.

plan for reaching, 78, 356-357, 374-376.
Lockwood, Lieutenant, 1,4, 5, 8, 39, 62, 63. 64, 72-73.

report on Water Course Bay, 6, in.

report on SU Patrick Bay, 7-8, 1 14-115.

report on trip to the Bellows, 10, 124-125.

report on sledge journey to Cape Beechey, n , 1 27- 1 29.

report on St. Patrick Valley, 12, 133-134.

orders and report on attempted crossing of Robeson
Channel, 12-13, 134-138.

orders and report on preliminary trip to Cape Beechey,
15, 142-143-

orders and report on trip to Thank God Harbor, 16-17,
144-148.

orders and sledge journal on exploration of north coast
of Greenland, 18, 22, 23-28, 182-215 pi. i-ii, map.

value of geographical work, 27-28.

trip up Archer Fiord, 29.

report of launch trip up Archer Fiord, 35, 234-235.

report of launch trip up Chandler Fiord, 35, 236,

542

INDEX.

LockwiKxi, Lieutenant, ordjw ami report on iireliininary trip
on Nortli CJrecnland coast in 1883,40,41,243-245,

orders and report on exploration of Greenland in i88j,
4'. 43. 247. 249-255. ch.

orders and report on crossing of Grinnell Land, 43, 45,
274-29 «•

orders to relieve Dr. Pavy as naturalist, 46, 298.

letter, reimrt, and inventory of natural history collec-
tions, 47, 29S-3 17.

trip into ;h? interior of Grinnell Land, 48, 317-319

advice for retreat from Victoria Head, 60, 377.

illness and death, 75, 76, 82, 83, 4«7-4«8. 481-482,
503. 504-

character, 82.

journal from August 3, 1883, 92, 366-440.

orders to receive medical stores from Dr. Pavy, 319.

list of articles left at Fort Conger, 440.
Lockwood Island, description, 25-26, 206-208.

cairn and record, 26, 207-208.

nature of interior, 188.

.sketch of " Farthest " and next point beyoml, 207, 208.

copy of record left, 232.
Long, Private, 16, 29, 30, 35, 40, 46, 49, 69, 79, 82, 83, 86.

report on trip into Archer Fiord, 23, 179-180.

value of services, 71-72, 83.

trip to Alexandra Ilarlior for game, 79-80, 430-431.

assignment to Sign.1l Service, 89.

trip into Hayes Sound, 357 ~jO.
Longitude, special instructions on determination, 103.
Low Point, 204-205.

Magnetic apparatus, list, 107.

Magnetic declination at Cape Camperdown, 61.

Magnetic observations, 1 1 , 30.

instructions, 39, 100, 101, 102-103, 104. 105-106.

transmitted to Coast Survey, 50.
Magnetic storm, 38.
Magnetometer, breakage, 39.
Mammalia, list of collections, 308.
^Maps, instructions for, loi.

list, 536.
Markham, A. H., search for pemmican left at Conical Hill

by. 173-
Markham Island, 203.
Mary Murray Island, 25, 26, 187 pi. ii, 205-206.

record left, 208, 232.
Mascart Inlet, 204, 209.
Medical reixjrts of the expedition, 324-349.

See, a/so. Health.
Medical stores, furnished by Surgeon-General, 2, 98.

order transferring from Dr. Pavy to Lieutenant Lock-
wood, 319.

character and quality of outfit, 323, 330, 339-340.
Medicine, allowance at Cape Sabine, 70.
Medusa, list of collections, 310.
Melville, Chief Engineer, 91.
Melville Bay, remarkably favorable passage, 4.
Merry, Lieutenant, inspection of Proteus, I.
Meteorological apparatus, list, 107.
Meteorological forms, list, 107.

Meteorological olaervations, summary for month, at Fort Con-
ger, 8, II, 12, 13, 14. 15. «6, 18, 20, 23, 30, 34,
35. 36, 37. 38. 39. 40. 42. 44. 46. 48. 5°. 7«. 74.
75. 76, 78.
instructions, 39, 100-102, 103-104.
trips in Grinnell Land, 'I9-120, 125, 130, 134, 138,

141, 164-165, 181-182, 233, 234, 247, 279-294.
Greenland coast, 148, 162, 187, 228-229, 255, 258-259.
trip over Polar Ocean, 166-177.
results for i88i-'83, at Fort Conger, 350.
Eskimo Point and Cape Sabine, 390-437, 457-529-
Meteors, blue, 38.

instructions for observations, 104.
Mineralogy, list of specimens, 314-315.
Molloy, Consul, assistance rendered by, a.
Mollusca, list of collections, 309.
Moonlight, determination of intensity, 38.
Morley, E., instructions for air samples furnished by, 13.
Mount Arthur, ascent, elevation, and position, 32, 33-34.
Mount Arthur Eugene, 319.
Mount Augur, 32.
Mount Beaufort, 8, 12, 122.

ascent, elevation, position, and deposit of record, 116,
118.
Mount Biederbick, 32.

Mount Campbell, exjiosure of self-registering instruments on, 12.
Mount Carey, 80, 358.
Mount Cartmel, 114, 120.
Mount Easy, ascent, 284.
Mount Gardiner, 205.
Mount Linn, record and cairn left, 32.
Mount Neville, 32, 126.
Mount Parry, cache, 140, 141.
Musk-calves, captured and tamed, 29, 37.
Musk-meat, value as food, 243.
Musk-ox Valley, 275-276, 277, 284-286, 292. ,

Nares' expedition, cache at Cary Island, 4.

cairn at Littleton Island, 5.

record and cache at Washington Irving Island, 5, 57-58.

articles abandoned, 23, 30, 260.

decoration of graves of dead, 46.

cache at Cape Collinson, 54-55, 371-372.

cache at Cape Sabine, 66.

cache at Cape Isabella, 68, 69, 70-71, 72, 354.

list of stores left at Lincoln Bay, 122, 123.

copy of records left on Greenland coast, 225-328.

visit to graves of, at Thank God Harbor, 260.

record on Brevoort Island, 353.
Natural history, orders relative to, 45-46, 297.

formation and packing of collection, 47.

instructions for observations and collections, 99, 104.

report and inventory of collections, 300-317.
Neptune, copy of records left at Brevoort Island, 352-354.

cache at Cape Sabine, 387-392, 457-458.
Newman Bay, 145, 146, 188, 249-250.
Newspaper "Arctic Moon," 13, 335.
Nordenskiold Inlet, 209.
North Cape, 188.
North Valley, 318.

INDEX.

543

Occultation, d Pisrium, 37.

Ockenion, J. A., letlen transmitting diary nf Private Schneider,
and account nf finding, S'!>~SJ<>-

Organization of expedition, 1.

War Department orders, 97-99. '

lilt of ofiiccn and men, 98-99,
instructions from the Signal ('""xc, 98-107.

Osbom, Admiral S., cited on crossing young ice, 67,

Parhelia, cut, 310.

Taul, C. \V., visit to grave, 16, 260, 262.

Pavy, Dr., reported at Godhavn, 1, 3.

collection of supplies at Ritenbenk, 3.

proposal to leave expedition, 7,

orders and reports on trips towards Cape Joseph Henry,

8, 9-10, II, 130-133, 141-142.
orders and report on trip to Lincoln Hay, 9-10, 120-123.
orders and report on trip down Archer Fiord, 10, 126-

127.
orders and report on trip to Wrangel Bay, 13, 139-142.
orders and report on trip northward over I'ular Ocean,
^ 17, 18-19, 20-21, 165-178.

orders and reix>rt on trip to Grcenlarul coast, 17, 156-

IS8.
visit to Polans boat camp and Thank God Harbor, 22-

renewed contract, 34,

trip to Carl Ritter Bay, 35, 37, 38, 237.

letter on early spring field-work, with reply, 40-41, 242-

243-

general health rei)orts ordered, 42.

orders and medical re|X)rt on trip to Thank God Har-
bor, 42, 43, 248, 264.

orders relative to natural history data and botanical
specimens, 45-46, 297.

search for fossils at Cape Baird, 46.

relieved as naturalist, 46, 298.

refusal to renew contract, and orders to turn over prop-
erty, 48, 319-321.

refusal to turn over diary, arrest and charges, 48-49,
321-322.

advice for retreat from Victoria Head, 60, 377.

recommendation of increase of ration, 70, 84-85, 86,
361-362.

theft of food and medicine, 74, 83, 84, 85, 87, 89-90,
363,411,499,531.

recommendation of issue of alcohol, 85.

insubordination, 86, 381, 387, 514, 521.

certificates to, with letters from commanding officer to
Chief Signal Officer, 87, 362-363, 518.

illness and death, 90, 523, 524, 525.

character and services, 90, 514, 519.

instructions for contract with, 99.

failure to report promptly, 140, 166, 178.

list of natural history specimens, 299-300,

request for detail of Steward Biederbick, with reply, 320.

medical reports, 324-334.
Pavy River, 35, 237.

Payer Harbor, English cache, 390, 391, 464,
Peirce, C, pendulum instructions furnished by, 15.
Pemmican, obtained at Godhavn, 3.

Pemmican, value as fixKl, 345.

Pemlulum, arrangement for return trip, 50, 61,

Pendulum ap)>aralus, memorandum, 107.

Pendulum olmcrvations, 14-15, ■04-

Petersen, N.C., tomb, 172.

Petrifactions, 271, 296.

list of specimens, 314-315,
Photographs, list, 535.
Plants, lime of flowering, 29, 47.

re|)ort of Dr. Pavy, and lists of S|H.'Cimens, 45-46, 297,
299-300, 302-304.
Pocket Bay, 205.
Point of Rocks, 1 28.
Polar Ocean, orders and report on trip over, 17, 18-19, 20-21,

165-178.
Polans, report on winter iiuartir^i at Life Boat Cove, 5, 145.

records, observatory, and stores at Thank God Harbor,
16.
Polaris I)oat camp, 146, 188, 191.

cairn and record, 214, 217-218.

list of stores cached, 232.

record left, 232.

li.st of supplies taken from Knglish caches, 254.
Precipitation, instructions for ohservaliiins, 192.
Pressure, lowest reconled at station, 40.

fluctuations, 42.

instructions for observations, 10I-103. '

Princess Marie Bay, 358.
Promontory Point, location, 145.
Proteus, inspection and contract, 1,98,

delay for repairs, 5.

discharge and departure from Fort Tonger, 7,

caches left by, and lo.ss on relief expedition, 351-352,
387-392, 457-458, 460.
Pyramid Mountain, 282.

Quartermaster General, clothing and camp equipage furnished

by, 2, 98.
Quarters, Fort Conger, 7, 335, 340-342.

Eskimo Point, 65,393,455-456.

Cape Sabine, 69, 74, 337, 345-34<>, 354 (cut), 393,

394-395 (""). 460,
report of commanding officer on, 340-342, 345-346.

Radiation, solar, observations to be made, 104.
Radmore Harbor, 53,
Rae, Dr., cited on crossing young ice, 67,
Ralston, Sergeant, 22, 28, 84, 507.

death and value of services, 88, 519.

meteorological report on sledge journey to Greenland
coast, 162.
Ration, Cape Sabine, 65, 69, 70, 71, 75, 76, 77, 79, 81, 84,
337-338. 346, 347, 361-362, 463.

sledging, 135, 183-184, 199, 243-244. 255. 295. 325.

345-

Fort Conger, 343.

Eskimo Point, 391, 392.
Rawlings Bay, 53, 370-371.
Record Point, Archer's record, 235.

record left, 235, 283.
Records, preparation of scientific, 36,

544

INDEX.

Recnrdi, arranKemcnt for return trip, 50.

onlvrs for ile|MH>it, 99.

ex|ic-(liliiin, copies, iio-lll, jjj, 350,351.

KiiKlish, copicH, 149-155,225-228.

relief cxpcilition, ciipiex, 351-354.
Records left l>y vx|M:<litiun, lucatiuu:

Ca|H: Dairil, 51, 350.

Ca|)c Drilannin, 202, 232.

Cape Krynnt, 198-199, 232.

Cape Camperdown, witli boats near, 61,6a, 351.

Ca|>e Kulford, 224.

Cai>c HotTiiH-yer, 209.

Cnpc Isabella, 438.

Cape Molin, 209.

Carl Rittcr Ray, 238, 240.

Cary Ulandii, 109,

Kloel)erg lieach, 173.

Greely Kiord, 290, 319.

Lockwooil Island, 26, 207, 208, 333,

Mary Murray Island, 208, 232.

Mount licauforl, 116, 1 18.

Mount I.inn, 32.

Polaris boat camp, 214, 217-218.

Record Point, 235, 283.

St. Patricia Itay, 1 20.

Stanton Gorge, 197.

Thank God Harlmr, 363.

View Point, 177.

Washington Irving Island, 5,57, 110-111,441.
Red Bluff, 236.

Reef Island, English cairn and record, 226.
Refraction, observations to be made, 104.
Reindeer, most northerly point, 53.
Reindeer horns, found on Lake Ilazen, 31.
Relief expeditions, 34, 58.

caches at Cape Sabine, 66, 68, 69, 351-352, 387-392,
457-458.460.

rescue by, 91.

instructions relative to, too.

copy of records left at Brevoort Island, 351-354.
Repulse Harbor, visit to Beaumont's cairn, 27, 188, 213, 250,
252.

copy of English records from, 226-228.

record left, 252.
Rescue, 91-92.
Results of expedition, 92-93.
Return, order for abandonment of Fort Conger, 50, 322.

general conduct during, 92-93.

instructions for, 100.
Rice, Sergeant, I, 4, 5, 14, 17, 18-19, 23, 35, 54, 57, 59, 62,
63. 64, 65, 78, 79, 80.

trip towards Cape Joseph Henry, illness and rescue, 8,

9. «o-
report on sledge journey to Cape Beechcy, II, 129.
trip to Thank God Harbor, orders, report, and sledge

journal, 42, 43, 248, 259-263.
visit to English cache at Cape Isabella, 68, 69, 70-7 1,72.
attempt to reach Littleton Island, 76-77.
trip to Haird Inlet for English meat, 82, 83.
death, 83, 84, 359-360, 505-506.
character and services, 84.
report on sleeping bag and sledge, 134.

Rice, Sergeant, report on trip from Lincoln Bay to Fort Con-
ger, 178-179.
Rhc Strait, 80,458.

Richardson, John, cited on crossing young ice, 66-67.
Richardson Hay, 54.

Rilenlieiik, purcliase of dogs and supplies at, 3.
Robeson I'hannel, 9-10, 12-13, «39. M'. »4''.

attempted crossing, 12-13, '5. •34-'38, l43-«43-
Ross, Captain J., cited on crossing young ice, 67.
R,.s-,e Hay, 68, 388, 389.
Rum, issue, 59, 78, 344.

value in Arctic regions, 348-349.
Kyan, Private, relieved from expedition, 7.

Haint (icarge Kionl, 224.

St. John's, assembling |K)int of party, 1,98.

St. Patrick Hay, 7,9, 117, 118, 119,121.

rc|M)rts on exploration, 8, 12, II4-I15, 133-I34.

record left on cliffs, 1 20.
Salor, Coriwral, 9, 22, 28, 40, 65, 82.

death and services, 89, 523.
Saxifrage, value as food, 88,347,517,518,519.

use as fuel, 5 1 3.
.Schley, Captain, rescue by, 91.
Schley Land, 80.
Schneider, Private, 2, 19,21,41,47,64,71,72,78,85,88,509,520.

theft of food, 72, 395.465. S^o.

death and services, 91, 528.

extract from diary, 53'-S34-
School, 13.
Scoresby Bay, 55.
Scurvy, 15, 75. 82, 324-334, 348. 525. 528. S29.

re|K>rt of commanding officer on causes and prevention,

349.
Seal blood, value as foocl, 443.
Seal skin, use as food, 89, 90, 348, 520, 524-525.
Sea-water, specimens to be preserved, 104.
Secretary of the Navy, steam-launch furnished by, 1.
Secretary of War, letter approving execution of Private Henry,

364-
Shells, list of specimens, 3'4-3'5-
Shift Rudder Bay, 131, 138.
Shoe Island. See Mary Murray Island.
Shrimps, value as food, 434.

method of catching, 495-496, 503.
Signal apparatus, list, 107.
Signal of distress, erection, 59, 60, 91.
Signal Office, instructions to the expedition, 98-107.
Signaling, use, 135, 137.
Simmonds Bay, 277, 293.
Sledges, 12, 15, 18-19, 102, 193, 198.

reixirt on Hudson Bay, 1 34.
Sledging outfit, 295-296.
Sleeping-bag, suggestion of improvement, 134.
Smith, Krarup, assistance rendered at Godhavn and Upernivik,

2-3-
Smith Sound, retreat, 64-65.

navigable -n November, 1884, 67.

why impassable for l)oats in October, 66-67.

preparations for crossing in 1884, 77, 78.

condition of ice in 1884, 87, 486, 515, 517, 518, 520,

523.526.

INDEX.

545

Snow, peculiar phrnnmenon of, in.

Snow cr>'>laU, instriiclinn.s for ntmcrvalioni, I03<

Snowhmiso, ilescription, I j6.

nri'csnily for vcntilntinn, Ijl.
Siiimcl, ex|>criiiieiilH on vclocily, 15,37.
Soundings, 27, 2ul, 311, 270, 271.

iiiiitnictiim.s, 104.
Spirituous lii|U(irs, value in Arctic rci'ionH, 348-349.
St;ilkneclit IsKinil, (14.
Slanlon Ciorgc, Tleaumnnt cache, 34, 186, 197,212,

record left, 197.

cu]>y (>r record left liy Beaumont, 335,
Star-fiii)), list of collections, 310.
Starr, I'riviile, relieved from expedition, 7.
Steam lauiicli, ruriiished by the Secretary of the Navy, I.

iMiiKr replaced at St. John's, 3.
Stearine, eating firliiildcn, 77.

value as fuel, 450.
Stephenson Island, 35, 188 pi. I, 30O-3OI.

skct'di of fiurd, 303.
Stony Cape, 127.

Store house at Cape Sabine, 394-395.464.
Stores, furnished by CommissaryC.cneral, 3,98.

abandcmcd at Kort Conner, with list, 49,323.

list, on hand at Cape Sabine, 70.

list of expedition, with remarks, 108-IO9.

list, at Thank God Harbor, 147-148.
Storm Cape, 25,
Storms, 14,42,46.
Su(;ar Lo.if Mountain, height, 29.
Sun Hay, search for Conybeare's depot, 9.
Surgeon-Cieneral, field supplies and medical stores furnished
by, 2, 98.

Tea, smoking forbidden, 75,420,478,479.

Tea-leaves, eating forbidden, 76.

Temperature, winter of l88o-'8i, in Greenland, 2, 3.

remarkable means and extremes, 13, 16,30,34-35,38,

52. 63.

period of extreme cold, 15.

earliest date of frozen mercury, 38.

instructions for observations, loi. '

Temperature of surface sea-water, 12,37.
Terrace formations, 285, 286.

Thank God Harbor, orders and reports on trip to, 16-17,42,
43, i44-'48, 248, 259-263, 264.

articles from English Arctic expedition, 23.

list of stores, 147-148.

description of observatory, 148, 260, 263.

English records from, 149-155.

record left, 262.
Thanksgiving Day, 13, 38, 74, 401.

cop" of order establishing, 243,
Thefts of food, 92-93.

See, also, Henry; Pa/y; Schneider; Whisler.
Thermometers, instructions for use, shelter, and testing, loi,

104-105.
Tidal crack from Cape May to Lockwood Island, 27, 187, 188,

207.
Tidal observations, II, 30, 37, 44.

failure at Cape Bryant, 26.

Tidal )h»ervation», Black Horn riilTH, Repulse Harbor, and
Cnpc Sumner, 4), J56 25.S.

Cape lleechey, orders and report, 44, 264-265, 269-370^

Cape llaird, ordera and rC|K>rt, 44, 265, 2()8.

Capo Crucroft, orders and report, 44, 370-27 1.

transmitted to Coaxt Survey, 44.

instructions, lou, 101.

North (iii'tnl.ind coast, 189, 255-258.

methods, 252-253, 255, 264, 268, 269, 370.
Tiilegnuge, erection at Kort Conner, 8.

selfrenisterinj;, 38.
Tides, heavy, 53, 54, 55.
Tobacco, use in Arctic re^icms, 348.
Tn'»f,'<t 'iiniilns, description of egg, 47,
Twin Glacier Valley, 358.

United States Mountains, 22, 32, 275, 318-319.
Upernivik, clotliinK obtained at, 3.
departure from, 4.

Very Kivcr, 31,33.

Very Valley, vegetation and description, 33.

Victoria Head, 58,60.

plan for retre.it from, 60, 377-378,444.
Victoria Inlet, 27, 187 pi. i.
View Point, 21, 173, 177.

record left, 177.

Walrus, seen off Distant Cape, 34.

War Department, orders assigning Lieutenant Greely to com-
mand, and org.-inizing expedition, 97-99.
Washington Irving Island, Nares' recoril, 5.

record left, 5,57, 110-111,441.
Washington's birllid.iy, celebration, 15, 40.
Water, samples from paleocrystic ice, 29.
Water Course Bay, report in, 6, 11 1, 138.
Weyprecht, Lieutenant, internation.il stiitions 'xroposed by, I.

plan for m.ignetic ob' rvations, 103.
Weyprecht Inlet, 25, 206, 20S.
Whale, bone found, 235.
Whisler, Private, 14, 18, 22, 23, 34,6a

theft of food, 86, 513.

death, 88, 519.
Wild Fiord, 26, 208.
Wind, instructions for observations, 102.

direction indicated by sastrugi, 22.

high velocity, 14, 34, 48, 217-218.
Winchester observatory of Yale College, special instructions

for standard thermometers, 104-105.
Wrangel Bay, 9, 122, 167, 170, 246.

sledge journey to, 11, 131-133.

orders and report on trip to, 13, 138-142.

cache at, 140, 141.
Xanlhtis, drift-wood from, 4.

Yantic, 66, 67, 69, 352, 458.

Young, Allen, return of Arctic mail left at Littleton Island
by, 4-5.

Zoology, list of collections, 299-300, 305-310, 315.

H. Mis. a93 36

gglfj^l^

GRINNELL

FKOM DISCOVERIES M.^

INGLEFIELD, KANE, HAYES,

Tho interior and western coast of Grinnell Land,
ern extension of Hayea Sound, are from the exploratic
assisted by Lieut. James 15. Lockwood and the offict
Expedition. 18S1-1884.

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LAND

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lELD, KANE, HAYES, HALL, AND NARES.

>vestern coast of Grinnell Land, north of the 80tli parallel, and the west-
es Sound, are from tlie explorations of Lieut. A. W. Greely, U. S. Army,
imes 1>. Lockwood and the otHcers and men of the Lady Franklin Bay
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