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Tous les autres exempiaires origlnaux sont filmfo en commengant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la derniire page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparattra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ► signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbols ▼ signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent fttre filmte A des taux de rMuction diffAirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour fit a reprodult en un seui ciichi, II est fiimft A partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nicessaire. Les diegrammes suivants iliustrent la mithode. ita ure, : 2X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ■■v^ 7 " f \ i S i ^.: a 3 i»-w-^|B .jB(0®*^e ''=>UJc\»jK»^'^ METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL AND REPORT i BELATIYE TO THE Ot" THAT POBTION OP THE -: m LOWEE ST. LAWRENCE FOBMma THE STKAIT OF BELLE-ISLE. SECOND EDITION. COMPILED BY CAPT. D. VAUGHAN. QTrnSBC: PRINTED BY JOSEPH DARVEAU, No. 8 MOUNTAIN HILL. •'i^Xjnnc.^^'XN^m<=.,^'Sg>^««c^>^'^^N^r«c>'<3g^ m "•eQ©0«^'~>eQQQ«^*'*^^e900«r' IB J 5 \\ ^ I \\ IT..VV ■iiW mm Vv ^n f lU ■■i'.)" ^1 if 'xlf -> V .'I t ■ r >. ^3 'v' ^m^m^m METEOROLOGICAL 77 ^ ^ JOUENAL AND REPORT RELATIVE TO THE i ■M \ OP THAT PORTION OP THE I LOWER ST. LAWRENCE FORMma THE STRAIT OP BEllE-ISLE. SECOND EDITION. COMPILED BY CAPT. D. VAUGHAN. QUBBBC: PRINTED BY JOSEPH DARVEAU, No. 8 MOUNTAIN HILL. "'>*-»*" ■ ^"St ?•: r PREFACE The establiBhineut of direct steam communication between Canada and Great Britain greatly accelerated the improvement of the St. Lawrence navigation. Previous to 1854, the first year of the subaidisinff of the Montreal Ocean Steamship Company there were only eight lighthouses from the entrance of the Gulf to Quebec, while now there are sixteen, besides a large increase in the number of buoys to mark the dangerous shoals and rocks which fill the Gulf and River. Amongst the lighthouses established by the government of this Country, none was more required, and none has proved of more real value to the commercial interests of the Province, than that which forms the subject ofthe following pages. Before the publication of Captain Bayfields valuable report on the Gulf and river St. Lawrence, issued in Loudon in 1843, by order of the Lords Comraia- sioners ofthe Admiralty, what was known of Belle Isle was extremely vague and unsatisfactory. Even that work threw little more light on the subject, inasmuch as the compiler acknowledges to have had no opportunity of surveying it, and states unreservedly that liis report of it was derived from the statements of " Canadian and American fishermen who had chanced to visit it, and from his own observation at a distance." Notwithstanding that our author claims to give the first really reliable information concerning this island, it is but fair to add that five years actual residence on the spot only tends to confirm the general accuracy of Captain Bayfields observations and conclusions. In 1860 that portion of this report contained on the first ten pages was published by Captain Vaughan and met with a reception, in the scientific world, far beyond his laost sanguine expectations. The then honorary directors of the Royal Observatory of Liverpool presented our author with a valuable marine Barometer and Sykes' Thermometer, " as a mark of their appreciation of his valuable contribution to meteorological science." Capt. Orlebar, R.N., commanding the Admiralty surveying schooner " Gulnare " also forwarded him various valuable charts ; while the commanders of the Montreal Ocean Steamship Company's vessels, almost without exception, have from time to time communi- cated in most flattering terms their indebtedness to Capt. Vaughan for the assistance they have frequently derived from his Journal and lieports, in their passage ofthe Strait. Gratified with such valuable testimony ofthe appreciation m which his humble contribution to meteorological science is held, and in order to meet the numerous applications for copies of his first edition, now entirely exhausted, he ventures to place a second before the public. This, it is to be hoped, will be found more systematically arranged, and better adapted for meteorological conclusions, as it includes Capt. Yaughan's Journal for a period of over five years. In addition to his observations on the currents of the Strait of Belle Isle — the unerring indications of the marine Barometer, and its consequent utility to nautical men, and the necessity for a larger use of Bellbuoys and the best and most economical mode of placing them — there are also appended two lithographic cuts shewing the usual position and dimensions of the icebergs which are to be seen in the Strait almost all the year round. The author is aware that to the general reader the contents of his pamphlet may not prove very attractive, but to the ptudent of meteorological science, and more especially to the masters of vessels sailing to the St. Lawrence he trusts they will be of some slight utility and value — if only for occasional ref«reuce. Tub Editor. . .J! > !■ •♦He • iuif ■' -»"i ; ;;' ►1; Hi,; 9t.- -/f^.f f«rwp"*»nvi, ,,.ijii»pi, ni|iii ijiM I* ^ r** ^#» >««.«« 'ft'i jj^ •■■<-* ^ -.4 ^« >«il«^'» '.i*- »-*-w'»Jf CAPTAIN VAUGHAN'S REPORT ON THE CURRElNrTS OP THE y STRAIT OF BELLEISLE. ^^^^^^^^^^^k^^P^^^^^^^^N^^^^N^«^^^^«^«^^^^«^«^^^«^^^ , Belleisle, May 1st, 1800. l^cmnrks on the winds, currents, ice and icc-berf!;8, frgs, &c., in the strait. Tlio fiurrcnts in tlic strait and coast arc very irregular, more particularly to the southwest of this island, and along the Newfoundland coast,, and much influenced by the winds. There is a constant current running down the middle of the strait, from Forteau Light House on tlio west end of this island, ai>.d setting out in an easterly, and east by south direction from the liglit house to the sea, carr;ylng with it out of the strait, the greater portion of the icebergs. Thia cnrrent is much stronger from the 1st of April to the middle of July, than at any other season of the year ; and this must be owing to the great quantity of water from the numerous rivers along thd North Shore that set down into the strait. In the spring of the year, this current runs out of the str.iit from two and a half to three knots an hour. When the ice conunences to liroak up in the spring, it takes from three to four days to clear the field ice out of the strait, with the wind from the west blowing a smart top-gallant breeze. "Should the wind be from the east, or from any of the points having easting in them, with a strong breeze for a day or two, the ice will be perceived st.itionary, but with no inward set of tho current up the middle of the strait. At the east end of the island there is a bank laying off, bearing N.E. beetween two and three miles, with from live to seven fathoms of water on it, and three small rocks — two of them from six to eight feet above water. I have been told lately, by fishermen from Quirpon Harbour, that there is a portion of this bank which has only two and a half fathoms of water on it. The current sets in from the N.E. very strong, and divides on the bank and the east end of this Island, and a portion of it sets across to the southward, and along the south side of the island until it meets the downward current at the S.W. point where the light-house stands. There are two ripples, one from the bank, and the other from east end of the Island, ' ich are very perceptible at times, in calm weather, and more so with a fresh breeze. These ripp. s run fully three miles to the south. Vessels making for the strait coming in from sea, in thick weat acr, will very often notice these rip- ples when they cannot see the island, and masters of vessels may not know the cause of them unless ^^-ell acquainted. There are no other ripples round the island worthy of notice. In many instances the sea breaks on this bank, and in the finest weather, with not an air of wind out of the heavens, I have seen six or seven seas which would ibunder a large vessel, rise up to a fearful height and break ; in a few minutes after the sea became quite smooth for the remain- ing part of the day. The fishermen tell me that when the sea rises and breaks in this way, it is generally before a gale of wind from the eastward ; and this statement is correct, for I have seen it and taken notite of it myself. There is deep water between this bank and the island. The current to the north of this island, and along the north shore, sets in from the N.E., about two knots in the spring and summer months, and is much stronger in the fall. It is seldom there ia any current setting out of the strait to the north of the Island, in the middle between this and the Labrador coast, unless it is when the wind is strong from the west, for a day or two, and then it is scarcely perceptible unless close in shore. The current, at high water, sets out of the strait for about tour hours, and extends fonr miles off the land. In fine wealher I can see from here the dif- ferent sets of the currents by the icebergs, as the large ones generally ground, and all the smaller The greater portion of the icebergs pnss iuto the strait to the north of thi'? Island, i id nearly all pass out to sea to the southward of the L' iiid with the downward cuireiit.s and westerly winds; many of them ground on the different bank and remain the greater part of the sumnier. Tlio strait is mostly clear of these in the fall and during the winter moatha. Some winters a few may remain aground ; and those that do, increase to a considerable height with the heavy falls of snow and sleet. The latter generally follow after snow storms, and often cause icebergs to increase as much as from 40 to 50 feet in height during the winter. The greater number of them ground between this Island and the Island of Qiiirpon, more than any otlier part of the strait during the spring of the year. I have also noticed some of them aground on a bank, outside in tlie offing, from twenty to twenty-five miles from here. This bank seems from hero, to cross from C;ipe St. Louis about .south. Several of them ground on a bank abreast of Red Bay. about five miles from the north sho"e, and run down in a parallel line with the north side of the Island, to a .shoal water bank that lies off about three or lour miles The li.-ihcr- men inform mo that there are only iive or six fathoms on some parts of the bank; it lies about N. from Lark Island. 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It is not the case. For the ten icebergs that eater the Strait, there are fifty pass 35 to the southward, in the locality of the Banks of Newfoundland and Cape Race, and in the track of vessels bound to and from the St. Lawrence, and other North Americai. ports. And these ice- bergs that drift to the southward, are much the smallest, for the banks in the offing, outside Belle Isle Island, intercept the largest of them. I have seen as many as a hundred at a time, aground on this bank, in the month of May, and some of them half a mile long, and fully four hundred feet above the level of the sea. And there is every reason to believe that many of the number of missing ships, that wo hear of every year, are lost on these icebergs, in the vicinity of the banks. I would, in all instances, recommend vessels bound into the Strait, after the 15th of June, to pass to the north of the Island, and keep the north shore aboard, until clear of the Strait, as the fogs ge- nerally come on so quickly along the Newfoundland coast. As I have stated, in my former report, that fully half the time of th6se fogs, up to the middle of the Strait and along the south coast, it is clear along the north Shore, and I have been told by fishermen from Newfoundland, that the fogs are more prevalent during the summer months on the banks and locality of Cape Race than along the Ijabrador coast. The most essential places for lights, in the Strait, would be, one on South Battle Island, and one on Cape Norman, on the Newfoundland coast. Each of these light-houses, as also those on the coast, should have fog-whistles attached to them. The fog-whistle is much superior to the gun, as I have often, during my time on Belle Isle, beard the fog-whistle of the Mail-steamers quite distinctly, and could scarcely hear the report of the gun fired by them at the same time. If these fog-whistles were adopted, and at the difierent light-houses, beaconS and entrances to tho harbors along the Labrador coast, they would save many lives and a great deal of property After heavy gales of wind from the Eastward which very often last from four to six weeks in the fall and spring of the year, the water is forced up in the straits, gulf and river, that tides do not ebb more than half its ordinary fall, in moderate weather as it does during the summer months. And the moment wind shifts to tho W, or those points having westing in them the current comes down with great force and is influenced by the wind, through those different estuaries ; — should the wind above mentioned come from the " North West " or W.N.W. the current sets much stronger on the south shore both in the straits of Belle Isle and the gulf of St. Lawrence, I would therefore recommend to ship masters, in the trade, to make allowances in their course, either in, or outward bound, taking notice of the above remarks. I would also remark that during my time on " Belle Isle," I found the compass very much affected by local attraction, as there is a great quantity of iron ore on the island. This I mentioned to Captain Olebar of the R. N. when surveying round the Island in 1859, he said he found I was correct, at ^he same time said it was the first time he ^ad landed on the Island although he had been round the Island with Admiral Bayfield during the summer they were surveying on the coast of Labrador, but never landed on Belle Isle. As in many instances, masters of vessels have not much time to look over their charts or book of directions, in thick blowy weather, I will now give them the course and distance N latitude and W longtitude of the Labrador coast from Cape St. Lewis to the light ship in the Traverse, as also froni St. Paul's Island up the gulf to the said Lightship taken correctly from Admiral Bayfield's chart and book of directions. Any shipmaster who pays proper attention to his marine barometer, is certain some hours before to get positive indication of an approaching change in the weather in sufficient time to liorten sail. During my residence of 5 years on the Island, I found this unerringly to be the %iaP; p. S. — It was neglected in the proper place in this report to state that on the east end of Red Island, nior? perhaps than at any other point of the St. Lawrence a Bellbuoy was required. Here more lives have been sacrificed and more property lost annually than in any other part of the river. 36 Ik o O 87 ifi CO «s © CC CO (X> o e^ CO CO e<5 CO 00 o» o e CO CO CO CM co Tj. CO o >n o> •♦CO CO CO CO ^ CO o -* 00 C CO ^ o 0>1 o to e^ CO o C4 CO OS 05 CO OS 05 CM o o 00 -^ oc o» Oi o 00 CO 00 o> "cs o»"" t-H 05 OJ O OS OS OS o OS 00 O OS I— I CO OS OS OS (M o o O CO OS OS o OS OS OS OS oi O O) OS OS o OS 00 OS o OS CO OS OS OS CO OS OS OS OS OS OS >n OS OS O 'It OS OS OS OS o ua CO OS OS C« Oil OS CO oi C<1 OS o O T)< OS OS o OS OS B o e9 CO tX) c 'S IB ID 0) e (V o -a to £ o o 13 CO -a a S3 .to "C a 0) a O 08 to .5 o »— * P5 u
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M'¥ ill '"iff j rv i,,V , ) . . > \ , ■' iJO I) ^! ■ l''h: . - '■ lb} .J :•-'■. •< ^4.I»I»ETVr>IX Shewing the Lat, Long, and distances from one headland to the other ; from St.Panls to Quebec ; as also from the East entrance Strait of Belle Isle, along the Labrador coast, to Quebec. The western en+rauce oi the Strait between Greenly Island and point Zcrollc, is nearly 21 miles wide, the ftoint bearing from the island S.S.W. the course and distance tbrouyh the strait is S. 54 W. true or according to the mean variation W. J S. 65 miles. Greenly island lies li miles S.S.W. from Grand point which is on the northern or Labrador side of the entrance of the gulf of St. Lawrence through the strait of Belle Isle, the coast which will form the subject of this chapter lies between that island and the Southmakcrs' lodge, near Cape Whittle from the south* point of Greenly island to the Southniakers' ledge, tho course is S. 56 W. true or nearly W. ^ S. by compass and the distance is 128 niles, this line, however, could not be safely run upon at night, or in foggy weather because it would take a vessel too near the Murr rocks, and the black reef and would pass just within the St. Mary rocks. The safe coarse to be steered from Greenly island, by a vessel bound up the St. Lawrence, would be, W. by S. which would cl"-ir all danger up to the east end of Anticosti, bearing from the south point of Greenly island S. 52 30 W. true 218 miles. ANTICOSTI ISLAND. This island situate in the entrance of the N.W. or in the gulf of St. Lawrence is 122 miles long, 30 miles in extreme breadth, and about 270 miles in circumference, following the coast from point to point across the bays. Course from St. Paul to east point of Magdelene is N.W. :J- W., distance 56 miles and to Entry island N.W. by f W., distance 33 miles, and from the north Bird Hock to the lighthc^use on the f:' W. by compass 134 miles, the east point of Anticosti or W. ^ E. by compass 80 miles. Course should be steered along course from S.W. point to W. end, the coast, so as to pass 8 or 10 miles to the southward and westward of Cape Henry and west point N.W. ^ N., will be a safe course at night, or in thick weather. From the west point of Anticosti to the south extremity of point De Monts, bears W. ^ N. by compass, distance 110 miles. From the south extremety of point De Monts to north side of Biociuette island, bears S. 48 W. true, or W.S.W. by comjass 79 miles, and the south point of the Manicoungon shoals S. 84 W., by compass 33 miles. Having made the light on point De Monts, and being 3 or 4 miles off it to southward with usual eusterly winds, nearly, or right up the Estuary, steer A\' by S. by compass, until up nearly as high as the Manicoungon shoals, then keep half a point more to the southward, W'S.W. ^ W.. These are safe courses with either ebb or flood, and if the vessel has left point De Monts at, or near, the commencement of ebb tide, will usually bring her into soundings off Metis, where 30 fathoms, over sandy bottom, will be found 3 miles off shore, and 50 fathoms 5 miles off shore, and on the edge of tho bank from the north side of Bic((uctte island to the lighthouse on Green island, which shows a fixed light, bears S. 44 W. trur, or S.W. by W. ^ by compass, distance 30^ miles, and the light can be seen in clear weather from distance of 17 or 18 miles, course t om Green island to Brandy pots, bears S.W. | W., the whole distance from Green island lighthouse to the light vessel at the Traverse is u4 miles ; from Traverse to Quebeo 56 miles. 6T VTRGIN ROCKS IN APPROACHING CAPE RACE 29 LEAGUES S.E. | E. Latitude N. 46 26 30 Longitude W. 50 51 30W NOVA SCOTIA AND SOUTHERN COAST. Sable island N.E. end , 43 59 59 47 The southernmost point 43 56 60 The west end 43 57 60 15 Halifax 44 39 63 33 Sambro lighthouse 44 28 30 63 32 40 30 ^^ NEW BRUNSWICK WESTERN COAST. Fort Cumberland 45 49 64 8 Cape Envagee 45 36 64 28 Quako lighthouse 45 18 65 27 Patridge Island 45 14 66 1 City of St. John 45 15 30 66 ...... 1 Frederickton 45 57 66 39 Campo Bello head 44 57 66 56 NEW BRUNSWICK EASTERN COAST. 30 15 30 Cape Rosier 48 Cape Gaspe 48 Bqnavcnturc Isle 48 Cape Despair 48 Richibacto 46 Cape Tourrintine 46 Picton Harbour 45 Picton Isle 45 Gutof Canso N. L 45 51 ... ... 45 .... 64 ... ... 11 ... ... 48 45 ... ... 10 .... .... 64 ... ... 9 ... ... 22 29 ... ... 30 .... .... 64 ... ... 9 ... ... 21 25 ... ... 30 .... .... 64 ... ... 18 ... ... 32 40 ... ... .... .... 64 ... ... 37 ... ... 7 ... ... 38 .... .... 63 ... ... 37 ... ... 43 40 ... ... 44 .... .... 62 ... ... 38 ... ... 10 47 ... ... 52 .... .... 62 ... ... 33 ... ... 25 43 ... ... .... .... 61 ... ... 29 ... ... PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. East point 46 27 61 45 North Cape 47 4 63 51 Cape Traverse 46 12 63 28 Point Prim, Hiloborouu Bat. Charlotte Town 46 Bear Cape 45 .... 14 59 Breton Island and Magdalen Island. Louisbourg Lighthouse 45 Scatari 46 Sydney Harbour 46 Cape North 47 Island of St. Pauls 47 54 1 18 3 14 .... .... 62 ... ... 56 ... ... .... .... 62 ... ... 16 ... ... 30 .... . .. 39 ... ... 55 ... ... 30 30 .... 69 ... ... 40 ... ... 15 .... .... 68 ... ... 8 ... ... 30 .... .... 60 ... ... 20 ... ... 20 .... .... 60 ... ... 8 ... ... 17 62 % » I !.-h Magdalbn Island. Entry Isle E. P 47 Diadman Islet 47 Amherst Harbour 47 Coffins Island 47 Northern Bird Island 47 Byron Islet, E. P 47 Coast of Labrador, the East End. Cape St. Lewis, S. E 52 St Charles Island 62 Belle Isle, S. W. point 61 Do N.E. point 52 Battle Island, N. E 52 York Point 51 Bed Bay 61 Loup Bay 51 Forteau Point 51 Bradore Hills 51 Greenly Island .' 51 Bradore Harbour 51 Mistanogue Isle ^ 51 Mecattina Point 50 Cape Whittle Isle 50 Natashqnan, R 50 Mingan Island 50 Seven Island Bay 50 Trinity Bay 49 Point Demonts Lighthouse 49 West Point of Anticosti, West Point 49 S. W. Point Lighthouse 49 East Cape.. 49 Maincougan Point 49 Quebec 46 Montreal 45 South Shore of the St. Lawrence Cape Rosier 48 Cape Chatte 49 Bamaby Island 48 Bicquette Lighthouse 48 Brandy Pots 47 Pillar Lighthouse 47 4 ; Latitude N. Longitude W. 46 26 30 50 51 30W 17 .. .... .. 61 40 ... ... 30 16 .. •■•• o .. 62 12 ... ... 20 14 .. .... 28 .. 61 49 ... ... 21 37 .. .... 30 .. 61 23 ... ... 51 .. .... 2 .. 61 9 ... ... 10 47 .. .... 58 .. 61 24 ... ... 30 Iast End. 21 .. .... 24 ..^55 38 ... ... 23 12 .. .... 48 ... 55 24 ... ... 32 54 .. .... .. 55 26 ... ... 3 1 .. .... 16 .. 55 16 ... ... 16 15 .. ....44 .. 55 32 ... ... 19 68 .. .... 1 ... 55 52 ... ... 51 43 .. .... 55 .. 56 25 ... ... 24 31 .. .... 35 .. 56 48 ... ... 60 25 .. .... 37 ... 56 56 ... ... 25 35 .. .... 11 ... 57 11 ... ... 60 23 .. .... 19 .. 57 10 ... ... 34 27 .. .... 38 ... 57 14 ... ... 6 15 .. .... 61 .. 58 12 ... ... 7 44 .. .... 10 ... 58 58 ... ... 65 10 .. .... 44 .. 60 6 ... ... 46 7 .. .... 6 .. 61 47 ... ... 43 12 .. .... 56 .. 64 7 ... ... 61 13 .. .... 7 .. 66 24 ... ... 7 23 .. .... 47 .. 67 18 ... ... 12 19 .. .... 23 .. 67 22 ... ... 2 52 .. .... 20 .. 64 32 ... ... 8 23 .. .... 53 .. 63 35 ... ... 47 8 .. .... 25 ... 61 39 ... ... 69 6 .. .... 13 .. 68 12 ... ... 1 19 .. .... 8 .. 71 13 ... ... 30 .. .... 34 .. 73 31 ... ... 49 flWRENCE. ■ 51 .. .... 45 .. 64 10 ... ... 48 6 .. .... .. 66 46 ... ... 19 29 .. .... 43 .. 68 32 ... ... 2 25 .. .... 17 .. 68 25 ... ... 14 52 .. .... 36 .. 69 40 ... ... 47 4 .. .... 30 .. 70 31 ... ... 22 1. -I'y \ Welcome 2560. Belle-Isle 846. r