r IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) W^O w ^ t f^r 1.0 I.I l^|2£ 125 lAo mil 2.0 1.8 L25 lliu IIIIII.6 - 6" ixi Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEbSTER.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 tkiiei ^ « <\ '^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductlons / Institut Canadian de microreproductlons historiques 1 Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. □ Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I j Covers damaged/ D Couverture endommag^e Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurde et/ou pellicuide Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ D D n Cartes gdographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur □ Bound with other material/ Relid avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ Lareliure serree peut causer de i'ombre ou de la distorsion le long de la marge int6rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajout^es lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela dtait possible, ces pages n'ont pas M filmdes. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppldmentaires: L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'ii lui a 6X6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mdthode normale de filmage sont indiqu6s ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ D D D D D D Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes Pages restored and/ur laminated/ Pages restaur^es et/ou pelliculdes Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages d6color6es, tachetdes ou piqu^es Pages detached/ Pages d^tachees I I Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Quality indgale de I'impression Includes supplementary materit Comprend du materiel supplementaire r~~| Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totaiement ou partieilement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 film^es d nouveau de facon dk obtenir la meilleure image possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmd au taux de reduction indiqud ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 12X 16X 20X 26X 30X \7] ¥. 24X 28X 32X I i i itails i du odifier - une mage }rrata to pelure, n d The copy filmed here hes been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Library of Congress Photodupllcatlon Service The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with c> printed or illustrated in^pres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol — ► (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: 1 2 3 L'exemplaire film6 fut reproduit grdce d la gnndrositd de: Library of Congress Photodupllcatlon Service Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettetd de l'exemplaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprim^e sont filmds en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmds en commengant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaltra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ► signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Stre film6s d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Stre reproduit en un seul cllch6, 11 est filmS d partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mSthode. 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 \ \ "T PALMS AND PYRAMIDS. ^ \ \ LARGER OUTLOOKS it^ ON /S^(s> MISSIONARY LANDS Descriptive Sketches of a Missionary Journey through Egypt, Palestine, India, Burmah, Malaysia, China, Japan, and the Sandwich Islands K^ ats*- a BY .>--Z Rev. a. B. SIMPSON ly/ri/ OVER TWO hundred illustrations NEW YORK S^/^f^ J THE CHRISTIAN ALLIANCE PUBLISHING CO. 692 Eighth Avknub \ \ Entered Recording to the act of Congress, in the yea. .893. by A. B. SIMPSON, I „ the office of the Librarian of Congress, at WaBhingtoB. Atl. RIGHTS RESERVED. > THB ALt-IARCB PBBSa TRINTrBS 134 WKST 2&TH 8T., H"W TO»K PREFACE. Thk following pages contain the substance of a number of missionary letters, written from the East in the winter and summer of 1893, with careful revisions and considerable additions. These letters were written in the course of a very rapid journey ; and, while they had the advantage of the freshness and inspiration suggested by the immediate presence ot the scenes and incidents described, yet they may bear the marks of haste, and they make no pretension whatever to literary merit. Under ordinary circumstances, their publication in per- manent form would scarcely b"vo been justified ; but in this case, a large constituency oi .xrsonal friends was kind enough to insist upon the privilege of preserving, as a perma- nent memorial, those messages from abroad, which they were pleased to value at the time with an appreciation which we cannot help crediting to their personal affection for the writer, and their deep interest in the mission fields and work described in these letters, rather than to any pre-eminent value in the papers themselves. . , .^.*.MiwM*ii jfiJ liiUlmtillU'miW^ ' f 4 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. With a profound sense of this feeling on their part, the author and publishers have endeavored to set these sketches in as attractive a frame work as possible, and they sincerely- trust this volume will be accepted by thousands of hearts, as a loving memorial of the affectionate prayers that sustained the author in his long journey with an intense and delight- ful consciousness of a fellowship in Christ, stronger than the barriers of space and time ; and that it will be con- sidered a grateful acknowledgment of the loving co-operation which these dear friends are still giving to him in the great object of his life— to hasten the evangelization of the world and the preparation of our Lord's return. To promote this great end v as the object of his journey abroad and the purpose which inspired these pages If the reading of these sketches and the examination of the many beautiful pictures accompanying them shall inspire a deeper interest iu heathen lands in the hearts of even a few, and shall lead the people of God to a more intelligent, self-deny ing and heaven-baptized consecration to the one great desire of the Master's heart, and the special work for whose ac- complishment His coming waits— the world's immediate evangelization— we shall greatly rejoice, and feel that the labor bestowed on this modest message has not been in vain. Once, it is said, a desert wanderer found a crystal spring of surpassing freshness. The water was so pure that he felt unworthy to drink it himself, and, after barely satisfying his thirst, he filled a leathern bottle with the crystal liquid and bore it across the desert as an offering to his chief. PREFACE. fc, the itches ;erely Is, as ained light- than I con- ration great world urney If the many leeper iT, and -deny desire se ac- ediate it the L vain, spring lie felt nghis d and Days passed beneath the desert sun before he reached the palace, and when he brought in his offering and laid it at the feet of his master, it had become corrupted and putrid. But the king would not let his faithful subject oven imagine that the water was unfit for use. He tasted the water with expressions of gratitude and delight, and sent back the loyal heart filled with joy and gladness. After he had gone, the princes asked to taste the water, and expressed their intense disgust and surprise, that the king could even pretend to enjoy it. "Ah"! said the king, "it was not the water I tasted, but the loyal love that prompted the offering, and made it a most delightful draught, from the heart's crystal spring." So our offering, like all that man can do, is marked by a thousand imperfections ; but we believe our Master accepts the motive, and we trust that He will make this message a draught of blessing to His household. At His feet we dedicate it, and to His name be all the glory I CONTENTS. Thb Winter Sea Days in England On The Continent I. IL HI. IV. On The Blue Mediterranean V, First Impressions of Egypt - ■ VI. First Glimpses op Palestine VIL Days in Palestine vni. Under The Shadow of The Pyramids IX. IsMAiUA to Bombay Our Work in Berar X. XL Berar to Nellore and Madras XIL Madras to Bombay XIIL Bombay to Benares ... XIV. From The Himalayas to The Hooghly t 15 28 83 40 50 60 103 123 151 167 188 204 230 ■ • 11 CONTENTS. XV. Leaving India - XVL Calcutta to Bubmah • • XVII. Among The Malays - XVIII. First Impressions of Southern China XIX. Missionary Work in Southern China XX. Shanghai and its Missionary Work XXL On The Yangtse XXII. Down The Yangtse . XXIIL To The Northern Capital XXIV. Last Glimpses of China XXV. The Missionary Outlook in China XXVI. First Glimpses of Japan - XXVII. Across Japan by Rail - XXVIIL Last Days in Japan XXIX. The Situation in Japan XXX. Home Coming XXXL The Missionary Outlook 353 274 294 81T 346 864 376 394 418 452 467 485 504 529 543 565 675 ass 294 817 846 864 876 894 418 452 467 485 504 529 643 565 675 ILLUSTRATIONS. FULL PAGE ENGRAVINGS REPRODUCED FROM ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHS AND FOREIGN PAINTINGS. Palms and Pyramids Port Said and the Northern End ok the Canai.. Ships ok the Desert. ... Jakka krom the Sea. Donkey and Veiled Lady. ... Calvahy. --.•-- Jerusalem and the Mount ok Olives. Bethany. -...-- Gethsemane. - . - - - Bethel. - - - - • The Nile and the Pyramids. The Sphnix. . . . . - Interior ok Moslem UNivERi^iTY ok Cairo. Victoria Street, Bombay. A Groups at Igatfuri. Frontispiece. O})pa0«. 40 la (A Kodak Photograph). - 45 50 - 58 70 .. 72 7<^ - 78 82 III 116 118 144 155 L \* ^,~i ' i.^^^^r*m f J ■^?r I ^ IV. ILLUSTRATIONS. The Girls' Orphanagk. The Christian Alliance Convention, Akola. A Roadside Scene. - - ^ ' r\. j!^Kjn.uz, ^^ Kodak Photograph). Mr. Simpson and Coolie Cart. ^ - .' lYiK. vjx™ .:. ^^ Kodak Photogfraph). Bangalore. - - ■ " * On the Road to Mahabalashur. - VJJN 1 nn J>.w ^^ Yio&aii. Photograph). On the Road to the Ghauts. ^ . ' Kjss i.B.j^ >■ (A Kodak Photograph). The Gospel of Healing, in Marathi. - John iii: i6, in Marathi. In the Garden of the Taj^^^ ;,„,„,„;,, Side View op the Taj. ^^ ^-^^^ p,„,;^,p,, " The Taj, Agra. - - * * T?TioNT View op the Taj. ' ,.» * " TROWl Viivvy (A Kodak Photograph). Benares. - - - - Darjeeling. --"'*' Palms in Royal Botanical Gardens, Calcutta. The Image of Gautama, Rangoon. ShwEE-da-gone Pagoda, Rangoon. Shwee-da-gone Pagoda. . - - • A Malay Coffee Plantation. The Traveller's Palm. . - - A Malay Village. . - - - SBC ! i IV. ILLUSTRATIONS. The Girls' Orphanagk. The Christian Alliance Convention, Akola. A Roadside Scene. - " ^ . Ix ri. ivw^ .3 ^^ Kodak Photograph). Mr. Simpson and Coolie Cart. ^ - .' i»ijx.. wxi a (A Kodak Photograph). Bangalore. - - " ' * On the Road to Mahabalashur. - ^^ (A Kodak Photograph). On the Road to the Ghauts. ^ . * ^ ^^ * (A Kodak Photograph). The Gospel oe Healing, in Marathi. - John hi: i6, in Marathi. - - ' In the Garden of the Taj. - - J.IN ixi« v^ (A Kodak Photograph). ^TDP View of the Taj. - " ^v ' OIDl!, V liiw wr J ^^ vioAt^V Photograph). The Taj, Agra. - - ' " I^RONT View op the Taj. - • r KU« ± V i» ^^ Kodak Photograph). Benares. - " " ' Darjeeling. - - " ' ' Palms in Royal Botanical Gardens, Calcutta. The Image of Gautama, Rangoon. Shwke-da-gone Pagoda, Rangoon. Shwee-da-gone Pagoda. - - • A Malay Coffee Plantation. The Traveller's Palm. . - • A MalavVillage. ILL USTRA TIONS, A MAI.AY Family. - . • • Hong Kong. . - - - Thk Temple of Five Hundred Gods, Cantow. Chinese Lady Embroidering. - - ^ Reproducedfrom a Chinese Painting. Chinese Priest and Temple. - - Reproduced from a Chinese Painting. Gate of Woosung Fort, Shanghai. Chinese Idols, Shanghai. - - Pagoda, Shanghai. . - - • A Group of Chinese Missionaries. Temple at Hankow. - - - • The "Little Orphan," Yangtse River. Rafting. Ching Kiang. Reproduced from a Chinese Painting. Chinese Buffalo Carts. - - (^ « ir< nao u Reproduced from a Chinese Painting. The Temple of HEA^^N. - Chinf.se Sawing Lumber. - " . ., * V-tn« r.OD w. Reproduced from a Chinese Painting. A Chinese Family. - - ■ Interior of a Mandarin's Apartments. Chinese Punch and Judy. - - ^" Reproduced from a Chinese painting. Japanese Travelling AT Night. - • J fYrft.« iw Reproduced from a Japanese Painting. Image of Kuradani, Kyoto. Temple of Three Thousand Gods, Tokio. • 3" 321 329 335 340 365 367 368 379 386 396 411 416 432 438 448 456 460 462 504 495 509 Hi LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS \ ■- WMlWttJ-'W WI^ ii 1 ii .L. THE WINTER SEA. IT would not have seemed quite consistent if the "Servia" had started on time. So she sailed half an hour behind time, and our friends were critical enough to say it was because we were on board. For more than a month we had been getting ready to go away, and in order to gain a little on the already full schedule time, we had been obliged to work from sixteen to twenty hours a day. The last few nights we had scarcely dared to trust ourselves to a good sleep, and so it was a strange sensation to find ourselves oo the "Servia" with an hour, nay, a week, perhaps, of actual leisure. We cannot thank the Master enough for the delightful courtesies amid which we were permitted to begin our lonely journc> . The. farewell meetings in the Tabernacle were full of the Spirit of God and the simple, hedrt-felt kindness of His people. Thinking of twelve years ago, we felt like Jacob, when he said : "With my staff I passed over this Jordan ; and now I am become two bands." We were permitted to leave quietly, only about a dozen \ .- ' ^ f^/ asTgii/^if?*r*'tf^i«i_'-' ,". ■7'ii' '(■-^ r ."■ «-.»*,»',K^;W»^»-V<-' -r- lO LARGER Ol Tl.OOk'S ON MISSIONARY LANDS. friends breaking through our request and accoinpanyiug us to the ship. We felt the sharp strain of many thousand heart- strings, but a eweet sense of God's approval and the unity and sympathy of all our dear friends in the purpose of our journey. We left New York amid bitter cold, and our ship cut her way all the way down the Bay through thick and heavy ice. But when we got out to sea, we found the waves still and calm, and a mighty Presence seemed walking on the waters. It is blessed to go forth encompassed by such a cloud of prayer. Before twenty-four hours had passed, however, we had a taste of the winter sea ; and our second night on board was so rough that the trunks went crashing in all directions in the tossing ship, and few slept much. It was the effect of an old storm that had passed ere we came to sea. For twenty-four hours the sea ran very high, and we all kept quiet. By the evening of the third day the waters calmed, and we were able to do some work again. On Wednesday we sailed into the Gulf Stream, and Thursday was almost like a summer day— the south wind laden with balm, and the sky clear and bright. Most of our passengers are English people. It is a good school for character study. How comfortable and self-com- placent some people are ! It was refreshing to see a middle- aged Englishman knock his head against the hanging frame full of wine glasses, and smash some of them, and then summon the steward, and ask, with immense dignity, how \ THF. LISTER SEA. IX « this extraordinary thing could have happened.' We shoiUd have been covered with confiiwon and apologies, and ready to pay for the broken glasses ; but this comfortable gentle- man seemed to expect an apology from the steward, and even from the wine glasses for hitting his head, or being there at all. Well, there are people and people. How some people waste their time ! What would they not give at the end for a Uttle ? And yet they throw years away at the be- ^'°The fai-ther we get from the hallowed influences of home, the more do we feel the need of Christian fellowship and prayer, and the more do we thank the blessel quickly, quickly, All around the -world. With early dawn on Sabbath morning, Jannary 21, we sighted Fastnet Lighthouse, Ireland'H first landmark. We had sailed along an invisible pathway across tlu» unmarked Bea and the unerriug compass had guided us within an mch of our aim. The navigator's faith had located that promon- tory there, and lo ! the vision of actxial sight found it real. So our faith in God should sail in trackless waters and find the soUd reality answer to our trust. We had scarcely come abreast of the shore line when the fog-whistle began to soimd, and we were enveloped in a cloud as sudden as it was dense. But it lifted as quickly as it came, and in a hour we were steaming up to Queenstown Harbor in a blaze of warmth and sunlight worthy of the na- tional character. It seemed as if old Ireland was smiling all over in token of the welcome she was giving to the pastor and associate of some of her children in America. A loveher day we had never seen. After the cold winter sea it was indeed most cheering, and our inmost spirit kept whispering all day, "Then they are glad because they be quiet, so He bringeth them to their desired haven. ' We just caught the " Etruria" in time to send our mails back to New York by her. Had we been an hour later our friends would have had to wait a week longer for their letters from us. , X ^ We waited at Queenstown only long enough to send 14 I..iNUl:h- Of n.OOhS i>.\ J//XV/OA /A')- f.AMKS. urthore » '^-w i>usHengers, and wvon hundred mail bags from all wenteiu lands, including a great lot from China and Japan, and then we steamed away to LiveriK)ol. ( )ur own guoenstown mail brought uh kind letters of welcome from England and Sweden, with enough invitations to kw'p u« from feeling lonesome in London. Midnight brought us to Holyhead. Long and late .ve lingere^v men. 8 from la and tens of tatioiiB ate W6 i lights perfect yellow, 1 differ- er for a n quick linutes ; ten sec- he very 8 shore. , 80 dis- heaven on life's 36 lights abscura- lore em- ir dark- ather in 11. DAYS IN ENGLAND. MONDAY uioiuing, quite early, we wove sent ushoiv Liveri)ool, on the Cunard tender. We werr met the dock by our kind and attt'iitive English agentb and they showed us every courtesy, helped us through the custom house, sent off our telegra ns and letters, and saw us to the train for London. Mr. Mili^ gave us very interesting information about our, recent missi niary parties. He spok- especially of dear Clara Stromberg of the Congo party, and h(.w she had endeared herself to niMiy friends in Liverpool. Her face and voice were the last and brightest memor- ies of the large party that had saileci out of Liverpool last summer for the Congo. Dear Clara swept swiftly tluough her heavenly orbit, but it was a ver. bright one, and now she is shining and singing over yonder Liverpool was thick with fog as Q leenstown was bright with sunshine. We asked a young mai in the hotel if it was often thus. He said he had not seen the ^un for four months ; bat he added, with a cmel bit of selfish omfort, it was noth- ing to London. It was Dean Ramsay, e believe, who told of the Scotchman who, when asked by disgusted traveler "if it always rained thei-e," good naturedly answered: "Na, na ; it sometimes snaws." (.S l6 LARGER orri.OOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. Well, rain or snow, beautiful England is beautiful all the same ! Here, in January, as we ride through the valleys and l)lains of Derbyshire, the fields are almost as green as sum- mer ; the farmers are plowing, the sheep and cattle are graz- ing in the pastures, the ground is covered with crows ; there is no frost nor snow, and even the hedges have just been pruned, and are waiting to send out their fiist buds and branches in a little while. What causes all this general f ruitfulness ? We are far north of the latitude of New York. It is the Gulf Stream from the tropics, that bears a perpetual tide of balm and blessing to these ocean isles. Oh, if our spiritual lives could only abide in the great Stream of Life and Love that comes flowing down from the Summer Land beyond the unseen sea, what a temperature we should enjoy, what fniitful lives we should have ! " There'd be no sorrow in our song, No -winter in our year." We reached London on exact time, and found friends waiting to welcome us. The home of dear Mr. and Mrs. Brodie is a home indeed, and has been the hospitable resting- place of all our outgoing missionarios. Words cannot express the obligations of the Alliance for the kindness of these dear friends, who combine the second and third epistles of John in very deed, and are the Gains and the Elect Lady of our precious work. We found that dear Peter Scott had left and passed us on the way, returning on the ' ' Germanic. " 1 1 '■'• ~-U~. DA YS /jV ENGLAND. 17 1 all the leys and as sum- ire graz- 3 ; there 1st been uds and 3 are far Stream aim and ,res could it comes B unseen tful lives i friends and Mrs. e resting- )t express hese dear s of John dy of our d left and We found our friends in Jjondon had arranged to make the most of om- time, and we are having a busy and blessed week. Monday night we had the pleasure of addressing a meet- ing at the Friends' Meeting House, and met some choice spirits. Tuesday found us in the City, busy enough, at our agents, our shipping office, and many other places. We were per- mitted an interview with the Honorable Secretary of the Church Missionary Society, and obtained some most valua'-;l'. information i-especting the Soudan, and especially the Niger and Binnue Rivers. We were able also to make satisfactory arrangements with Messrs. John Snow & Co., Ivy Lane, London, for a full supply of our Alliance books, tracts, and weekly papers to be kept in London. In the evening a very kind reception had been arranged for us through the courtesy of Miss Gurney and others. The meeting was held at the Hall, Adam Street, Strand, and was attended by many of the Christian workers of London, and those especially who had become interested in our work. It was a touching surprise and we trust a blessing to many. The Lord ""/vras present in great power, especially in the after meeting for prayer, which was one of the most blessed and solemn we have ever felt. The Lord permitted us to speak a little of the work, and more of Himself, and we were con- scious of a delightful sympathy and fellowship of heart. Among those present were Miss Gurney, Rev. Evan Hop- kins, Rev. F. B. Meyer, Rev. Mr. Mantel, Mr. and Mrs. \ 'l-'^?^^*l^»£=!''^"«^ -ITB*'..-. l8 LARGER orrLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. Eeader Harris, Mrs. J. Hudson Taylor, Mr. and Mrs. Brodie, Prof. Bartlett, Miss Fannie Gregson, of Ceylon, and many others. Their loving sympathy was a breath of cheer on our long, lonely journey to the East. We have just heard from our Swedish party, and they will be here to-morrow, 7). T., on their way to Southampton and China. We had the pleasure to-day of calling at Fins- bury Square, where our India party of missionaries stayed, and we were rejoiced to hear the gracious words of the Super- intendent and others respecting the blessing tbey left behind them. They are now on their way to India, and the last section will arrive about February 1. Wednesday morning fomid ns at our business agents, our bankers and the Foreign Office, arranging for passports, vises, etc., in order to be able to go to Egypt and Palestine. In the afternoon we went to Bethshan, and met many dear old friends. We felt the cloud of blessing as we turned the corner, and we knew God was still there. Mrs. Baxter was there, and led the meeting. Mi-s. Boardman was also ]»resentwith her quiet, triumphant spirit, after all the changes and trials of eight yeai-s. Mrs Brodie has also become a reg- ular worker at Bethshan, although this afternoon she was called out to attend a meeting of Jewesses in another room. Miss Murray is at present in Sweden, although she still re- tains her relation to the work. The Wednesday meeting is regulariy kept up at Bethshan HaU, and God still owns the work and testimony by His healing power. But the Bethshan Home has been changed, and is now ■f 1.1 7W. re. Brodie, and many eer on our , and they ithamptou g at Fins- ies stayed, the Super- eft behind id the last 3SS agents, passports, I Palestine, met many , we turned [rs. Baxter n was also the changes come a reg- 3n she was •ther room. 3he still re- meeting is U owns the and is now DA YS IX ENGLAND. 19 used not for gu^ :mauuJiiJ^4i. | |i. Hn 1 1 . ■ irty, and he wisest it move- nder and 3ses itself y profita- the calls 5f prayer, ire cannot 'ew busy, ew, D.F., was a real I Geneva, t was very ; of meet- ir, at Bale, , the Medi- ays, if the lie. Some I at break- lary candi- were glad grapher — a in the city id we were DAY'S IN ENGI..\Xn. 23 We cannot sufficiently praise God for the wonderful help given us in our very short visit to London, in enabling us to meet every one of the engagements we had counted upon, and accomplishing so much that was upon our heart. Even at the last moment He graciously interposed to prevent our missing our train. We had got through all our work and left in good time, with twenty minutes to spare, at the Cannon Street Station; but, unfortunately, our kind agents, who had taken such constant trouble with us, and arranged everything so satisfactorily about our tickets and passages, had sent us to the wrong station, and we found, at twenty minutes to three, that we had yet to go all the way to Channg Cross, in the West End, more than two miles distant, or miss our train, and with it our steamer at Brindisi, and lose a whole week. Our kind friends who were with us thought it impossible, but we lifted our heart to God in a quiet prayer, and told our driver to rush to Charing Ci-oss, promising him an extra shilling if he got us there in time. We felt at rest, and knew that if we missed our train God would have something better. To make it more evident that God always loves to use the weak and foolish things of this world, our hoi-se was old and stiflf, and even the prospect of an extra shilling did not seem to put much new life into him. But God was equal to the emer- gency, and we got to Charing Cross with just three minutes to register our baggage for Italy, get our ticket stamped, hasten our things on board, say a hurried but loving good-bye to dear Mr. and Mrs. Brodie, and get off with an infinite sense of His quiet and loving care, while we learned with sorrow^ 24 LARGER OUTLOOKS OS MLSSIOXARV LANDS. that a dear lady was left behind notwithstanding the impor- tunities an.l entreaties of her friend, who only got the answer : *' We are going all the way to Sidney, Australia, and we can- not stop for anyone." English officials in such an emergency are invaluable. There is a man with brass buttons for almost every conceiv- able thing you want, and a sixpence will accomplish wonders. Upon the whole, the railway service of England and Lon- don is most excellent and convenient. Constant express trains run on all the leading railways, and, if you know the city, you can go almost anywhere in a very short time. Om- nibuses go everywhere, and for a penny you can ride a long distance. There is no better way to enjoy the streets of Lon- don than from the top of an omnibus. But the hansom is a convenience and luxury too little known in America. For a shilling you can go anywhere within reasonable distance at a very quick pace, for they all drive fast, and their simple form enables them to thread streets and crowded passages where a carriage could not go. Then, you can find one al- most anywhere. We saw the number 15,000 on one, and there are more even than that number in London. For a few shUUngs one can accomplish more business a a day in London than you could do in New York in two. As if to enable us to see much in a little, we had the opportunity of seeing a real London fog the day we left. There was much of what we would call fog every day ; but when we asked our friend if that was a London fog, he smiledatourinexperience,andsaid,"Whyno,thisissM>w/itne." s. D.I ) .V /A' ENGLAND. 25 e impor- answer : I we can- valuable. conceiv- wonders. and Lon- b express know the ne. Om- ie a long bs of Lon- nsom is a !a. For a istance at 3ir simple passages nd one al- i one, and For a few in London ii*ii4^»'.'fi»*ii'. 38 LARGER OUTLOOKS OiV MISSIONARY LANDS. The second night we sailed past the Grecian Isles in glorious moonlight, and the following day we were nearly all day long within two or three miles of the coast of Crete. Candia is its modern name, but to us it has a sweetci nterest as the parish of Titus, the friend of St. Paul, and one of the early scenes of Apostolic Christianity. Its long western shore is bold and barren looking, and but few human beings seem to live on this rock-bound coast ; but, we doubt not, be- hind these naked hills is many a sweet valley, and many a throbbing human heart. The Cretianb did not have a very high reputation when Paul wrote his letter to Titus, and they have not improved it in modern times. But it is one of the places we have claimed for Him who made all these scenes for Himself, and shall yet cover them with his grace and glory. The blue Mediterranean is, indeed, as blue as it can be painted or described. We have been wondering what could possibly give these watei-s their exquisite hue. But we have found the cause : it is as simple as it is beautiful, and it is full of instruction. It all comes from the clear blue sky above. It is just the reflection of the heavens above from the calm bosom of the sea below ; and as these skies are clearer and bluer than in our murky West, so these waters, likewise, give back the glory they receive. Surely, we need not interpret the figure. Would we have in our lives the heavenly glory we must also receive it from above. Our holiness is just the reflection of His Face. The Mediterranean is nearer the central zone and under the more II NDS. ian Isles in re nearly all at of Crete. }tei interest one of the ng western man beings mbt not, be- and many a have a very lis, and they I one of the these scenes 8 grace and 18 it can be what could Jut we have ul, and it is ar blue sky ove from the J are clearer 3rs, likewise, ould we have eive it from i Face. The ier the more ON THE BLUE MEDITERRANEAN. direct reflection of the 8un and sky, and so it receives the light of a brighter sky. And so the nearer we come to the very centre of His Presence, the more richly will we give back the glory of His life and light May God keep us "beholding, as in a glass, the gloiy of the Lord, to be changed into the same image from glory to glory, even as by the Spirit of the Lord V. FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF EGYPT. THERE are moments which we never forget. Such a moment was that in which we caught the first glance of the lighthouse at the mouth of the Nile. It seemecl to bridge over forty centuries, and to bring us into touch with the days of Abraham, Joseph, and the exodus of ancient Israel. Right over yonder we could almost see the young slave lad going down to the house of Potiphar, the little baby floating among the reeds of the Nile, and the holy Babe and mother passing down from Bethlehem to Egypt, very much as we have seen the peasants to-day, traveling along on their little donkeys or on the backs of their camels. There are things that speak to the heart beyond the power of words. There are realizations of things that no amount of reading can ever give, and these two short days in Egypt have photo- graphed upon our hoart and soul the strange life of this unchangeable East, as first impressions are indelibly photo- graphed, and as no words of ours, we fear, can reproduce them to others. The first Ught was Damietta, and, about two hours later, the flash light of Port Said burst upon us, and an hour or two afterward, we steamed in between the great bi'eastworks that run two miles out into the Mediterranean, and were 40 3t. Such a I first glance I. It seemed into touch IS of ancient » the young le little baby ly Babe and , very much ong on their There are 3r of words, reading can have photo- life of this sUbly photo- 1 reproduce hours later, an hour or breastworks a, and were 42 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. anchored in the midst of a dozen other great ocean steam- ships, in the mouth of the Suez Canal. It is about a quarter of a century since this stupendous triumph of modern engineering skill was opened, and it has revolutionized the trade of the East. It cost about one hun- dred million dollars, but is worth it. It has brought India within little more than a fortnight of England, and the vol- ume of trade that has already poured through may be esti- mated by millions. The man, to whom more than any other its success was due, was M. De Lesseps, of France, who, to- day, stands before a Paris ti'ibunal with a sullied reputation, and charged, along with others, with the grossest dishonesties in connection with the Panama Canal enterprise. He was backed in his enterprise chiefly by English gold, and the British government has made this, in part at least, the occasion for the military occupation of Egypt, as a guar- antee for the payment of the interest on the enormous national debt which has been increased by this and other great public works. In fact, Egypt is almost in the position of a British colony. This was made very plain the other day, when the young and headstrong Khedive got angry with his cabinet, and dismissed them summarily, without consulting the English minister. He was requested by the British government to reinstate them again in twenty-four hours, and a contingent of British troops, within a few hours, had landed at Suez to follow up the demand, if necessary, by prompt action. The only concession made to him was to allow him to appoint a new premier, but all the other members of the 'DS. an steani- bupendous md it has b one hun- ght India d the vol- ly be esti- any other !, who, to- sputation, shonesties jlish gold, b at least, 15 a guar- enormous and other 8 position other day, y with his consulting 16 British Durs, and a lad landed )y prompt allow him ers of the FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF EGYPT. Egyptian government, we believe, wei-e replaced. In fact, most of the chief officers of the Egyptian army are English, and England intends to hold the country with a strong hand. The little breeze has already blown past, and the tone of public opinion seems to be with England. The only Egyptians we have talked with have condemned the Khedive as a foolish and hot-headed young fellow, who needed the sharp lesson he received. We found on reaching Port 8aid, that we should have to wait two days for our steamer to Jaffa, and so we resolved to take a quick trip up the canal to Ismalia and Cairo, leave our heavy baggage there and return in time for the Saturday steamer. This has given us an opportunity to see a little of Egypt in passing, and on our return we shall have a few days more to wait, in which we shall hope to see much more of this wonderful old land. Wonderful, indeed, it is, a world as different from ours, as if it were another planet ! Here we are steaming slowly up the canal, while the half -naked children are running along the bank keeping up with the steamer, caUing out for "backshish," and picking up. with eager delight, the oranges and pennies the people throw to them on the sand-banks. The blessed children are the same everywhere, — simple, happy, and beautiful ! The faces of these little bronze Egyptian boys and girls are most interesting, and some of them quite handsome, especially the boys. They have learned the art of smihng to perfection. When they want to sell you something, or get some "back- shish" from you, they will look in your face as if you were the 44 LARGER OVTLOOKS OX MISSIOXARY L^NDS. dearest friend they had on earth. Sometimes you will stop and look hard at a turbaned fellow who is smiling as if he had known you for years, and you will stare at him and wonder where you have met him before ; but, as you fail to respond with something more substan*' xl, he will pass on, with a look of disappoint- ment, and tiy his fasci- nating manners on some one else. Yesterday at Ismalia, in the west quarter, wo saw a butcher standi' j beside a sheep he haa just dressed and hungup in the shambles, and it was a perfect study to see his face, as he stood rubbing it down and pat- ting it all over, and with eyes lifted up to heaven, was calling out "Allah, Allah," and telling the crowd what wonderful meat it was. He seemed quite overcome with his emotions, and we could hardly tell whether he was smiling or weeping, so deeply moved was he about the quality of that sheep. His fine acting was not thrown away, for the old women were gathering round, and, as we left, he was beginning, with much con- EQYPTIAN BOY. \ v/ys. 1 will stop ig as if he it him and you fail to ill pass on, disappoint- p- his fasci- ;rs on some at Ismalia, juarter, wq ir standi! Bp he hiia nd hung up bles, and it :t study to as he stood fu and pat- r, and with to heaven, ut "Allah, telling the imed quite hardly tell )iy moved fine acting gathering much con- SHIP OF THE DESERT. FIRST IMP/? ESSIOJVS OF EGYPT. 45 descension, to cut off little pieces, and let them have some of that celestial mutton at exorbitant prices. Here is a caravan of a dozen camels, with half a dozen families, the women on the backs of the camels, the men walking in stately fashion beside, and the children trotting along behind. There, on our left, is a company of Arabs and camels, starting out from Kantarah along the road that leads to Syria. Here again are flocks of millions of birds, flamingoes, ducks, geese, literally covering the water. Here are stately palms as high as our forest trees ; and, on every side, are great iieaps of desert sand, and away to the right and left the great billowy desert, as far as the eye can reach. We never saw such a color in the clouds. It seemed a sort of reflection from the desert sand. And the sunset over these western sand plains has a iniddy glow and a lingering glory we have not seen before It took our steamer nearly twelve hours to steam slowly up from Port Said to Ismalia. There we disembariced in a steam launch, and the ''Masiiilia" sailed on to India and Australia, while the dear missionaries stood waving their handkerchiefs from the deck in loving farewell, imtil we should meot again, if the Lord will, in China. We had a few hours at Ismalia before the train left for Cairo, and we took a long walk through the town. The long avenues of acacias were very solemn and beautiful. The house of M. de Lesseps was here, and the headquarters of the canal works. But the Arab quarter was the most inter eating. The kind and obliging dragoman of Messre. Cook & 46 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. Son took US through the narrow streets and bazaars, and we got a good view of genuine Arab life which we shall not for- get. There are three or four thousand Arabs in this quarter of the town, and among them were almost all other nationali- ties, and, on very familiar terms, numerous families of goats, donkeys, dogs and camels. These people live just as they did in the days of Abraham. One gets a very vivid realiza- tion of Patriarchal life by looking at them. Here are the earthen pitcher, and water pots ; here are the people with their beds of mats spread on the sidewalk, and sleeping all night on the pavement, and in the morning taking up their bed and going their way. Here are a. hun the trav- i/io ^ of infinite inconvenience and trouble. We heard to-day of an ridependent Englishman, who declared he could *laud ^'t Jopj A for a franc, and refused all Cooks' services. The re- H'llt W'-vd, that before he got his baggage through the CiPioms *.ad at his hotel, he declared it had cost him several pounds. They, certainly, are very kind and obliging, and although we have only used their tickets for landing and short jour- neys, aside from our main route, they could not have been more courteous and attentive if we had given them thousands of dollars. Well, after we once got ashore, we were repaid for all our trouble. Our first act was to get alone in our room, and on our knees thank God for His great goodness, and then ■claim this glorious land for Christ. Then, after breakfast, it was a perfect luxury to sit down in the garden, back of the hotel, and take in the whole situation. Here, in midwinter, we were sitting in air as balmy as May, with flowers of every tint blooming all about us, acres of orange groves heavy with their Langing ripe fruit just over the walls, birds singing in the branches, and a strange ineffable sense of sweetness and sacredness all around ; and ^^H^'* MUD I T E RMA N EAUT , SEA 54 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. over all else, the delightful consciousness that this was the laud where He lived and died, and to which He so soon was coming back again. It was like a delight- ful dream. The morning ser- vice in the English Church called us from these thoughts to worship God, for the first time, in Pal- estine, and it was a great privilege to be able to do so even in this special form of prayer. In the afternoon,, we took a walk ta call on a friend in. the Enghsh Hospital, and met a number of delightful Christian ladies there, and had an opportunity to see this well-managed Institution where quite a number of Syrian and Arab patients were becom- ing acquainted with the humane side of Christianity, and opening their hearts to Christ. EQyPT AND THE HOLY LAND. ..,...->• lis was the o soon was (ack again. :e a delight- 1. oming ser- ihe English called us se thoughts ip God, for ;ime, in Pal- id it was a vilege to be so even in ;ial form of afternoon^ a walk to a friend in ish Hospital, a number of il Christian ere, and had tunity to see ell-managed on where svere becom- stianity, and tmmm FIRST GLIMPSES OF PALESTINE. 55 One of the workers told us that there was a real move- ment among the Mohammedans of Syria and Palestine toward Christianity, but few of these had the courage to come out boldly, as the persecutions were very bitter, some being liable to ass-ssination by their friends, others to be drafted into the army and thus got out of the way. She said they were, however, laying a train of powder under the enemies' walls, and, some day, the great explosion was coming to this r stem, and then their work would tell. We found, in talking with the intelligent dragomans and others, that there is a universal dislike to the Turkish govern- ment, which is the one obstruction to the progress of this glorious land. The Turk simply holds it to extort money from the people. The taxation is so heavy that it hardly pays to attempt any industry. An English lady lately offered $180,000 to bring pure water from Hebron to Jerusalem, but the Turk only tried to get her money, and she was wise enough to refuse it unless she was permitted to construct the works, and this was refused. Jerusalem and Palestine are trodden down of the Gentiles, but the iron heel is lifting, and the day of deliverance is surely nigh. We next went, of course, to see the house of Simon, the Tanner, and climbed up to the roof where Peter saw the vision from heaven and got his Jewish prejudices broadened. The building i^, probably, no older than the time of the Crusaders ; but the site is most likely the same as Peter's real home. We found it a good place, at least, to look up to the si;:.me heavens whence God gave him the first commission of iy\ 56 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. the gospel for the Gentiles, and on this, our first Sabbath in the Holy Land, ask for a renewal of our commission to give the gospel to the Gentile world. Walking through the thronging streets, even on this holy day, we could not help seeing the strangest scenes. The bazaars were crowded with every sort of ware. The market- place was a living swarm of Arabs, Turks, Syrians, men, women, children, fowls, eggs, vegetables, fruits, and every sort of ware and vender. As we turned to go down to Simon's house, a long funeral procession was just coming out of the Greek Church. It was most striking. A young man of wealth and influence had just died. The young men of the town were carrying the bier on their hands, high up above their heads, and chant- ing a plaintive cadence, about his goodness and his loss. The women were robed in pure white and were following close behind, screaming in a wild, piercing way, that almost sounded like acting. We were told by our attendant that they were not hired mourners, but his sisters and friends. As we came back, half an hour later, they were gathered around the grave in the cemetery, still making the same strange cries intermingled with the dirges of the men. We waited awhile, and the sad, wild notes still went on. We felt sad for the hopeless sorrow of the world. We asked our guide, who was a Greek Christian, if there was any hope in it, and he said, "No," — it was all sorrow and gloom. He said, in Syria, they often kept up the mourning until some of the relatives died of grief within a few days after. BM NDS. Sabbath in lion to give on this holy 3enes. The ?he market- rians, men, , and every jse, a long 3ek Church, ad influence »re carrying \, and chant- is loss. The owing close hat almost Bndant that ind friends, re gathered g the same } men. We at on. We We asked as any hope gloom. He until some ter. F//?ST GLIMPSES OF PALESTINE. 57 As we turned homeward from this scene, we overtook a Moslem marriage procession. A little girl was walking in front carrying a long wax candle, to be presented by tbe bride to the bridegroom. A lot of women in white, heavily veiled, were walking behind, chanting, or rather screaming, some bridal song. But the notes and tones were just the same as the ciies we had heard at the funeral procession- shrill, feminine shrieks, in a high key, and we could only hope that this was not a specimen of the tones in which the hride was to address her husband for their future life. Here our attendant told us that the marriage ceremony would be performed that night by tbe Sheik, and this taper would be kept burning all ni>i-ht while the wedded pair would sleep all the first night with s -(;rd and a copy of the Koran between them, separating them first unto Allah, before they should he united to each other. What absurd scenes meet one at every turn ! Here is an Arab whose horse is running away. The Arab is sitting on liis back, without bridle or rein, pulling fiercely at the horse's mane and trying to stop him, while he is calling out pite- •ously, oce, oce, oce which means v/hoa ! whoa ! whoa ! and calling on everybody to stop the animal. But the hoise keeps on, leaping past the numerous Arabs that try to head him off, until he and his rider are lost in the distance in a cloud of dust. The Arab seemed determined not to lose his horse even if he lost his life. Here is a little boy driving a donkey along the road. He is a very small boy and a very obstinate and shrewd donkey. 58 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. The boy is crying bitterly because the donkey won't go, but will insist on stopping at the nice bits of grass that grow by the hedge and having a leisurely breakfast. The boy is, evi- dently, afraid of the donkey, and the donkey, evidently, knows it. Every few minutes the boy, in a whimpering tone, goes up pretty near the donkey, tells him to go on, pre- tends to strike him, but keeps far enough off just to graze his tough back. And the donkey in the most amusing fashion just turns his hind legs in a threatening manner, which seems to say more loudly than words, " Now, you just look out ! " The animal does not mean to hurt him, for they are harmless little creatures not much bigger than sheep, but only to scare him, and this he has already done most thor- oughly. At last, the boy does the most sensible thing in his power, he appeals to a big Arab, who takes the club out of tho boy's hands, gives the donkey such a thrashing as he will not soon forget, and sends him on his way a more penitent and willing donkey than would have been possible any other way. Well, there is one thing we can all do when our enemies are too strong for us. If we have not courage to face them ourselves, we can call on One that is stronger than we or they. The devil is not afraid of us, but he is of Him. We have met some very excellent Christian people. Just before leading Port Said we called on the excellent mis- sionary of the Sailor's Rest, Mr. Locke, a former Salvation Army worker of Toronto: He is carrying on a work of faith, for the sailors of all nations, who crowd that port. \ I't go, but it grow by boy is, evi- evidently, 3ring tone, o on, pre- t to graze t amusing g manner, ir, you just n, for they sheep, but most thor- ling in his lub out of J as he will •e penitent any other ir enemies face them lan we or Jim. m people, lellent mis- • Salvation a work of it port. F/fiSr GLIMPSES OF PALESTINE. We met at the same place a brave pioneer missionary, who IS laboring upon Karak Moab. This is, perhaps, the ancient Ku-, mentioned so often in Isaiah. He is far beyond the hmits yet reached by other missions in Palestine, and is now on his way to a very bold, exploring journey, in com- pany with a friend, to cut his way through the heart of Arabia, from the Persian Gulf, and see if he can open a line for missionary work into that yet unoccupied land. We ha/e just met at Jaffa the Missionary Secretary of the Y M C. A. or England, who has been planting branches of the Y M. C A. at Gibraltar, Malta, Cairo, and other eastern points and has formed a fine branch in Jerusalem. So God is girdling the- earth with points of light, and preparing to gather His people out of all nations and kindred and peoples and tongues for His coming. VII. DAYS IN PALESTINE. THEY have not been many — only seven — but they have been memorable. We came from Egypt to Canaan, only a week ago, and now we go forth from Jerusa- lem, as the Lord may enable us, to the uttermost parts of the earth. This is surely the divine order ; may it be in the fullness of the divine blessing ! It never occurred to us, until we reached Jerusalem that we were beginnmg our visit to the heathen world at Jerusa- lem, exactly according to the apostolic plan. We are very glad it has been so arranged, in the wise and precious provi- dence of God, for it has enabled us to looh at the field, we believe, from the Master's standpoint, and from the true cen- tre of all Chrislian work. We left Jaffa for Jerusalem on Monday, Feb. 6th, by the new railway. It seemed almost a desecration to hear the locomotive whistle among the sacred hills of Judah, but after one has travelled ten hours by carriage or horseback over a modern Palestine road, be will vote for the railway every time he has an opportunity. We are very glad to know that two more are under way, farther north, connect- ing Haiffa, Beyrut, Noblous, Damascus, and the Persian Gulf, and we pray that they may be hastened 60 • ■"I DAYS IX I'.tLKSnXE. 6l they have 5 Canaan, n Jenisa- ; parts of be in the ilem that it Jerusa- s are very )U8 provi- field, we true cen- th, by the hear the idah, but tiorseback e railway Y glad to , connect- Persian The new road to JeruHaleni leads across the famous and fertil(3 ])]ain of Sharon, where we gathered a few of the beautiful scarlet flowers, of the anemone family, that were out in carpets of bloom, and which some have called "the Rose pf Sharon, " 0'. LARGER OUT/ OOA'S ON MISSIONARY 1.., VDS. . 1 left we could see Bethhoron, where Joshua fought his great battle, and Gibeon and Ajalon, and wh. he commanled the sun and moon to stand still and prolong tht day, until his victory should be made complete. Th'^ ^ '"v.'^ows a natural wady or stream in the moun- tains, and really has no serious engineering difticultios to t;ontend with. It climbs the moimtains by an easy grade, twenty-seven hundred feet, to the level of Jerusalem. The valley through which it runs is a fine sample of thousands of others in this wondrous land, and the moment we saw it we understood the secret of ancient Israel's prosperity and teeming population. These hills have all, at oih' time, been terraced fr< ii val- ley to bi>nimit in narrow ledges, built up like steps of stairs, eacii little terrace supported by : wall of stone and covered above with earth, and then planted with vines, fig >, and olives In ancient times it must have been a 'beautiful sif'ht tt these lo , and winding valleys, reacn.ng away up to the clouds, and coveremmaiuled r, until his ;he moun- icUltit38 to asy j-^rade, lem. The rmsands of we saw it perity and fr( ii val- 1 of stairs, id covered and ohves. j;ht t( <\ up to the gre<^u aly the c. ily give the s apparn r hman that ould make ne. Many as washed be seen ; DA ys IN PALESTINE. fi- but one can see from the niins what the past must have lx)en. There is much desolation in this Innd ; tliousands of hills THF TO-VER OF RAMLEH. and valleys, once green ai). itful, are but heaps of stones ; >ut there is not as much desolation as we expected. Again an< again have we seen beautiful plains, like Sharon, fer- 0.4 I.ARUKR OVTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LAXPS. tile as a garden, lovely vineyards and olivj-vanla, like thewe of Ranialeh, Breroth and Hebrf)n, where \y>v acres, and al- most miles, there was nothing but luxuriant trees and plants, and the amplest evidence that, with proper industry i»nd cultivatinii, and the blessing of God, the laud could soon be restored to its former prosperity. Most of the numerous (Colonies planted in Palestine by Kothschild, Hirsch and others, have been completely success- ful. Many of them have to-day the most flourishing vineyards, oliveyards, orchards and industries of v; lious kinds, and are fully paying all expenses and a good d.al more. The oranges of Jaffa, the grapes of Hebron, and the tigs and olives of the whole land aie ecjual, if not superior, to any in the world. The rains are truly returning to the country. The very best authorities, pt rsons that have lived here for more than a quarter oL a century, have assured us that the climate is, in- deed, hanging, doubtless fronv the direct blessing of heaven, and partly irom the natural effect of increasing cultivation. The greatest hindrance is the wretched government. It does all it can to keep back western progress and improvement, and to hold the people down by the yoke of taxation and every kind of selfish, depressing [wlicy, Th effect of this is to discourage a people naturally indolent, apathetic and in- different. A more industrious, intelligent and aggressive people vsrould soon make Palestine a land of prosperity. One need only look at the roads where travelling is dangerous from the heaps of stones that, 1 tally, lie piled on every path, when a very trifling amount of labor would clear the tracks V/AS-. , like these •leH, and al- and plants, idustry ;iiid lild Hoon bo *ale8tiiio by ely success - ^ vineyards, ids, and are The oranges lives of the e world. . The very more than a imate i&, in- j of heaven, cultivation. snt. It doe» iprovenient, axation and ft of this is letic and in- l aggressive jerity. One gerous from every path, r the trackii /'./)-.v /A' r.u./:sTf\/:. \S and make splendid macadami/cd roads, for the foundations are ius solid m rocks, ever since the days of the Honuins who built them. Many of tlie helds are just as bad, literally [Kicked witli rocks, and yet a lazy Moslem will go in with liis crooked stick tbat ho calls a plough, and scratch up the soil a little, and throw in some grain among the rocks, and let it come up and grow the best it can, and he calls this farming ; while a little farther on, a thrifty (J reek oi- foreigner lias gathered out the rocks, built a nice fence with them along the side of the field, and has a beautiful and bountiful harvest. But we have reached the suburbs of Jerusalem. On our left is the German colony, which has been growing \i\) for fifteen years, and now looks like a prosperous city by itself, with its new well-built stone houses and good streets. A few scattered houses stand in other directions, and in the distance a straggling point or two of mosque and minaret tell us that over the edge of yonder hill lies— Jerusalem. Wo step from the car. Our dear friends. Miss Robertson and Miss Dunn, are waiting to welcome us; and, indeed, it feels like home. Of course, we walk to their home. This first vision of Jerusalem must not be shut out by carriage windows. And so, giving our baggage to an Arab, and send- ing our dear sisters on by the short road home, we accept the kind invitation of a good missionary brother to walk with us aroun I the wall, homeward, and get, at least, a partial view of the City of Ages. Ah ! there it is at last. We have reached the brow of the hill, and, lo ! it lies at our feet. rrr- 66 LARGER OUTLOOK'S OX MTSSIOXARY LANDS. That is the valley of the Gihon, running into the valley of Hinnoni, just below us. Right across it is the height of Zion and the tower of David. Farther away, on the other side of the City, the great valley of Jehoshaphat runs down to meet Hinnom, and about where they meet is Aceldama ; GROUND PLAN OF JERUSALEM. and then it sweeps on, away down to the Dead Sea and the valley of the Jordan, whose great, black, rocky walls rise yonder at the end of Jehoshaphat's Vale, apparently only two or three miles away. Across the valley of the Jehoshaphat is another mountain with a tall tower on its summit; that is ..,,ii HjF;jp:i JNDS. the valley le height of 1 the other runs down Aceldama ; ea and the walls rise rly only two ehoshaphat nit; that is DAYS IX PALESTINK. 67 — Olivet. Farther to the right is the Mount of Offence, and away to the left are the white houses of crowded Jerusalem. We walk through the Jaffa Gate and the Street of David, and through a lot of dark, overarched lanes thronged with Arabs and their children, and their sheep, and their dogs, and WAILINQ PLACE OF THE JEWS. their wares, past great ecclesiastical buildings and streets, and sc-enes that call up a thousand associations, out the Damascus Gate on the north, and on through the new city that has grown up outside its northern walls, untir We reach an iron gate and a pleasant house front. We cross the thres« f !s;J>^ iVAj I- # SijsE 68 LARGER Orri.OOk'S ox MISSrONARY LAl^'DS. hold, and we are at home in Jerusalem, in the house of our dear Martha p id Mary, only both are Marys ; and the Lord is also there. They were days like a dream, — busy, bhssed, sacred, useful we trust — God-touched we know, and impossible to describe or reproduce to our readers we fear, but never- to be- forgotten days in dear Jei'usalem. The least part of the interest and blessing of those days was the opportunity of seeing the city and the land. And yet this was a great pleasure and opportunity, even in the limited time we had, and we were enabled to see much, and understand and realize what years of study, at a distance, could never have made so real. Of course, the time at our disposal would not pemiit our going to Northern Palestine, and so we confined ourselves to a few of the chief scenes of interest within twenty miles of Jerusalem. Jerusalem must ever be the centre of interest for every Christian traveler in Palestine. There are many things there which chiefly interest the antiquarian and archaeologist. For us, there were three or four spots which overshadowed all else. We cared little for the Church of the Holy Sepul- chre, for we were quite sure it was not the scene of our Sa- viour's death and resurrection, and all its clouds of incense, priestly mummeries, and splendid decorations only wearied and disgusted us. We took no interest in the mosaics and carvings and splendid stained glass windows of the Mosque of Omar, and only wanted to see the place where Abraham offered his sacrifice, and David and Solomon reared the Tem- Wsmmm w mma& b'f'wnSW*'! INDS. ouse of our ul the Lord sed, sacred, iipossible to never- to be- l those days land. And even \i\ the ( much, and a distance, time at our n Palestine, ef scenes of 3t for every things there rchaeologist. ershadowed Holy Sepul- 3 of our Sa- j of incense, nly wearied mosaics and the Mosque sre Abraham •ed the Tern- JO LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. through which most probably He passed that Wednesday night as He went out to Bethany, and delivered His predic- tions respecting His second coming. John xiv ; xv ; xvi. We were interested, of course, in visiting the tower of David and the place of his tomb on Mount Zion, and seeing POOL OF BETHE8DA, JERUSALEM. in one of the deep excavations some remains, probably, of the very masonry erected by the Jebusites, from whom Joab captured the stronghold, three thousand years ago. Many a Greek and Latin and Armenian structure we saw commem- orating some supposed scene of sacred history, the Via Dolo- ■flwufrar^Mi »imA% ■ ^mtMK\ m ii ■ ,1 „».''l« * # " >i VDS. fVednesday His predic- :v ; xvi. le tower of and seeing )robably, «>f whom Joab o. Many a V commeni- e Via Dolo- DA YS IN PALESTINE. 71 rosa, the Judgment Hall, the Pool of Bethesda ; all these were interesting in their way. But there were three places that were all-absitrbing. The first was "the place called Calvary." At a glance it was evident that it could not have been the spot where Greeks, Latins and Armenians have contended for centuries for preeminence, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, for that is far inside the walls of Jerusalem, and must ever have been so. But outside the Damascus Gate, or rather St. Stephen's Gate, "There is a green hill far away, Beside a city wall," and even a glance impi-esses one almost instinctively that this must have been the place. It is the -very shape «»f a skull, as Golgotha was. And right beside it is a garden, and under its brow an unfinished tomb, where only one seems ever to have lain, and where can be dimly traced a sign of tht .ross ; and here the enlightened scholarship of the last few yeaxj has almost unanimcrisly located the scene where J'3sn.^ died and rose again. It iT no-v\ a Moslem burial place, covered with tombs. There is one great rock in it, all torn to pieces, as if by a vio- lent earthquake. There are no offensive Greek and Latin churches and superstitious rites, but all is simple, natural, plain, and indeed bare, and almost desolate-looking, as be- fits the true significance of His cross. We lingered awhile, looked into the locked tomb, where, perhaps, John had once gazed, gathered some hyssop from the wall, and ]»assed on. 72 r.ARCr.K Of/V.OOA'SOX .VfSSIOXARV LANDS. Our heart was not as deeply touched as it was later. He was not there. Every instinct pressed us forward to a more sacred si)ot. A little walk took us to the Kedron and the gardens that cover quite a considerahle area around tlie place where He must have crossed. The Latins have enclosed one of these spaces and called it Gethseniane, and all around these walls have set up their graven images and painted representa- tions of the various scenes. They have also a chapel of the Virgin,and her tomb. There are many olive trees, and one that is at least one thou- sand years old. We got a few leaves from it through the kindness of the monk in charge. We could but wish that some of the more quiet i)laces around were the trut places. The English Christians are fond of going a little farther out to an unmarked garden and praying there in remembrance of His night of agony. But our hearts were not able to rest even here. On- ward with our guide, a Christian gentleman and a mission- tl^lL TOMB OF mBSALOM. later. He to a more rdens that where He le of these [i called it ne, and all hese walls up their nages and I'epresenta- ,he various Ihey have ipel of the i her tomh. many olive I one that i one thou- s old. We iw leaves large. We ices around ire fond of ,nd praying here. On- a mission- 74 LARGER OUTLO KS MISSIONARY LANDS aiy, residing in Jerusalem, we passed near where He had passed, up the side of nin t, which we found much n arer thau we ha'.l supposed, not hal > mile awa} Half way up the mountain we got a grand vew of Jerusalem, wlr '> is the best point of view by tar. Absalom's tomb Rtan I sed on untii w<- reached the summit of the Mount, o. i climbed the hij^ tower, from which we could see the whole land and the d* valley of the Jordan, and the Dead ^-a .a the west. Prom the Greek Church near by a distinguished funeral procession was passing. We paused a little and still pressed on,~on to Bethany, which lay round the mountain on the north side and beyond a second little hill-top. It was to this our heart was pressing forward— the Mount of Ascension. Yes, this was the cUmax of all our journey, and all His, too. " He led them out as far as to Bethany, and He lifted up His hands and blessed them. And it came to pass, while He blessed them, He was parted from them, and carried up into heaven." There on the rocky hillside we sat down, with the little town at our feet, and the higher mountain top above us, just hiding the great city from view, and a deep divine, imspeak- able sweetness fell upon cfur spirit. We were so glad there fftp.'i re He had iich I arer alf way up a, whi li is » fltan«l- ill irees, anr% ii 1.0 I.I 11.25 IB Kb 6" 12.2 2.0 1.8 1.4 IIIIII.6 V -^^^ 78 I.AKGKR orTLOOKS OX MrSSfOXARV LANDS. Another English lady, Miss Atley, has also a mission home and work on the sunmiit of Ohvet. Our limited time did not permit us to meet her, hut we had very delightful fellowship with her excellent father, who usually resides and lahors with her, hut whom we met at Jaffa, where he is at present supplying a post of service temporarily. The walk home took us along the Jericho road, and the veiy route, no doubt, that Jesus traversed when He came down from Bethpage and Bethany, on the little colt, and met the multitude, and afterwards entered Jerusalem in the triumphal procession. There is a point where the road makes an abrupt turn around the mountain, and the city comes fully into view. It was here that Jesus wept over Jerusalem, and predicted its speedy and utter overthrow. Luke xix : 41-4-i. . We reached our home about two o'clock, having lived vears in one brief, eventful morning. The afternoon was 'spent in visiting many objects of deep interest i«i the city, and the evening found a dehghtful company of Christian workers and missionaries gathered together at the home ox our dear hostesses to welcome us, and h.ar some message from the Master, whose presence seemed so near. Blessed "City of our God, and mountain of His hoh- ness Beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth, is Mount Zion, on the sides of the north, the City of the Great King Walk about Zion, and go round about her ; tell the towers thereof. Mark ye well her bulwarks, consider her palax^s ; that ye may tell it to the generation following. WDS. a mission imited time y delightful ■ resides and fieve he is at sad, and the 3n He came tie colt, and saleni in the re the road md the city IS wept over • overthrow. having lived 'ternoon was t in the city, of Christian i the home of ome message ir. 1 of His holi- rhole earth, is ' of the Great i her ; tell the , consider her ion following. J) A YS IX PALESTINE. 79 Hh will be our Guide For this is our God foiever and ever even unto death." Nay rru)r.. : •• For they that trust in the Loi-d shall he as Mount Zion, which cannot he removed, hut ahideth forever." '•As the mountains are round about Jerusalem, so the J.ord is round about His people from henceforth, even forever." Psa. xlviii : 1, 2, 12 U; cxxv : 1, 2. One very pleasant day of our short stay in Jerusalem was spent in a horseback journey to the North. Rising be- fore daylight, a party of four started as soon as we could get off, along the road that leads up the hill of Scopus, and out towards Nablous, Tiberias and Damascus. The first point of special interest was the old town of Anathoth. It had for us an intense interest as the home of Jeremiah, and the scene of that beautiful incident, Jer. xxxii: 8 .. where the prophet, in Jerusalem's darkest days, when the Chaldeans occupied the land and the city was about to fall, was commanded to take a bold, and apparently unreasonable step of faith, by investing his money, perhaps all that he had, in a field in Anathoth, as a guarantee that the land was coming back again to the people of God. Often has the old story taught us the secret of faith, and the ne- cessity of stepping out in advance of all seemings, and tnist- ing God in the dark. It was very interesting to stand for a little on the echo- ing hill-side tHat looks down upon the deep valley of the Dead Sea and the Jordan, and hear across twenty-six cen- turies the echo (for that is what the word Anathoth means) 8o LARC.r.K 01 TI.OOKS OS MISSIONARY I. ASPS. of the same old faith, which has ever heeu the watchword of God's host ; and, we tnist, we were enabled to echo back again the words, "I will trust." Returning to the main road, we passed on by Mob, tj\ >xry. e were glad ary journey lid we could >e felt in all ord this pre- ;re shall be mountains ; tliey of the Psa. Ixxxii : company of IS at Bethel ;, and as we ister's heart were all re- is, and Epis- 3sented. On the following evening we were invited to meet the workers in another Home, and here we had the i)leasure of meeting with a still larger company, including several of the ministers and missionaries of the Church Missionary Society, the oldest society and the largest in Jerusalem ; also some from the Moravian and London Jews' Society. The spirit of loving, humble and most brotherly unity was most cheering, and we were so glad that our dear workers had come into this pleasant atmosphere so soon. In many hearts there was a real longing for deeper spiritual life, and the baptism of the Holy Spirit. Of course there Avas not quite the freedom that we so happily enjoy wheie all restrictions are removed ; but theie was much more than we expected, and we believe God is preparing a little company in Jerusalem, in many of the missions, through wliom He can accomplish much for the Avorld. The two leading societies are the Church Missionary So- ciety and the London Society for the Jews. The former has seven central stations and forty outstations in Palestine, and the latter is also doing an extensive work. The Moravians have also a special Mission to the Lepers, and a Home for them. We had a special commission given us for this class, and we have met many of them on the road to Olivet, and endeavored to fulfill our truct to the best of our ability. We foimd many of them professional beggars, and not the most honest people in the world. But their cries were distressing and their need great. They are still outcasts — without the city gates. But the government has provided a Home for X a -u : 90 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSL ' VARY LANDS. all who will go, and the Moravians have anotlier, and there is no need that any of them should be in utter distress. The cry for "backshish" is one of the nuisances of this land, and the mendicants are often unworthy. One old ras- cal met us in rags at the Jaffa gate with outstretched hands, TOMB OF RACHEL, ON THE ROAD TO HEBRON. and our guide told us that he owned one of the finest estates in the country, "We spent one pleasant day visiting the country south of Jerusalem. Abraham removed from Bethel to Hebron im- mediately after his separation from Lot ; and so we also' passed on the following day from Bethel to Hebron. Theie INDS. 31', and thei'e istress. ances of this One old ras- tched hands, finest estates itry south of 1 Hebron ini- 1 so we also bron. There D.ns I.X r.lf.ESTINE. 91 is a fine carriage road, and the distance from Jerusalem is eighteen miles. It is a ride of about five hours each way. The road leads near to Bethlehem, and passes directly through the valley of Eschol It was there that the spies found the enormous grapes which two men had to i;arry on a pole. The valley is still highly cultivated and filled with vineyards, and the grapes are said to be as fine as ever. Hebron is a fine city of eighteenthou- sand inhabi- tants . It seems to be most prosper- ous. We saw them making the famous skin bottles out of goat skins, which are tan ned and sewed together so that they look exactly like a stuifed goat. We looked into one of the Moslem schools, and saw the dominie sitting in the corner cross-legged, on a plank, which one of our party called the school Board, and a dozen little Arabs around him repeating and reading, from a tin slate, passages of the Koran. We tried to buy one of the slatep» but they said it was a sin, as the Koran was written on it. ABRAHAM'S OAK, HEBRON. 92 I.ARG/:/^ OCTLOOKS OX MISSfOX.IRY L.IXPS. However, money always prevails with an Arab, and a six- pence secured an old cne, which we have for our missionary HEBRON, AND MOSQUE OVER THE CAVE OF MACHPELAH. museum. The Pool of David was there, and the tomb of Abraham and Sarah, in Machpelah's cave. The plain of Mamre is there, and an oak, at least one thousand years old, , and a six- missionary .he tomb of le plain of i years old, /?./)'.v /x r.u.f:si/\j-:. 93 no doubt just like the one where Abraham sat with the angels and the Lord. The hills are there tliat Caleb won for his in- heritance from the Anakim. We found two dear missionaries there who are working MISSION HOUSE, HEBRON. in sympathy with the Alliance, and are members of the "Bible Correspondence School," in New York. They are Mr. and Mrs. Murray, worthy Scotch people, and are doing an excellent work, and have much access to the Mos- lems, often being permitted to sit for hours in the vine- yards and read to them the Word of God. We also had the 94 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY LANDS. great privilege of assisting in the opening of a new Mildmay Mission and Hospital at Hebron under the cliarge of Mrs. Bowie of England and other workers ; and it was very sweet to sit th(!r(> with a little company of about a dozen, and read the old story of Caleb and Hebron, and claim a great blessing upon the work. There seems to be a l)etter opening in Hebron at this time than in any i)art of Palestine. One reason is, jnerhaps, that the Greeks and Latins have never got into the place, and the Christians are not (mis) represented by them as they are in so many other ])laces. On our way home we stopped at Bethlehem, looked at the Shepherd's Plains, the well of David, and the little limestone cave in the Church of the Nativity, Avhich is probably the birthplace of the Lord of glory. At least it spoke to our heart, in the Sj .rit, as Calvary and Bethany had done, and we are glad it was the last holy place we should have time to see in Palestine, for it left, as our last thought— that which Avas our Christmas message, and has become more and more the sweet watchword of our simple life—" as a httle child." How much there is in this wondrous land that speaks of the Master and the Bible ! The little sparrows are still here, of which He taught. The birds of the air are here that one can still see devouring the seed as it falls by the wayside. The flowers are everywhere, and they grow without care where nothing else will live. The children are still sitting in the market place ; and how one little fellow on Olivet did re- mind us of the Master's words, "We have piped unto you, I INDS. ew Mildmay irge of Mrs. s very sweet ^n, and read reat blessing 1 at this time erhaps, that aco, and the they are in •oked at the lie limestone probably the poke to our id done, and have time to —that which re and more ittle child." at speaks of re still here, lere that one the wayside, vithou't care till sitting in •livet did re- d unto you, />.ns y.v /'.//. /•;.s/7.\7-; 95 and y<' have not danced ; wo have mom-ncd unto you, and ye have not lamented." The little Arab wanted backshish very ba^2v ^tWl 'am\ If m^^^lm^^^. BETHLEHEM FROM THE EAST. could speak Arabic, tried to reason him out of it as a bad thing for good boys. He became very good all at once and followed us half an hour without opening his mouth. But, ( 96 L.lh'(./:h' OITLOOKS OX M/SS/OX.lh'V J..IXDS. as lio Hiiw this did not bring any backshish, h«! began to " pipe " to us. Ho went througli the gi-eatt'st lot of tricks and antics, laughing, dancing, and telling us how ho loved us. This was all unavailing. And then he b(>gan to mourn to us ; ho showed us hifi ragged clothes, ho wailed most piteously, h(^ entreated, implored, until at last, after ho had walked half round 01iv(>t, wo relented, and we gave him a little coin, not mu happy, and, as our friend said— spoiled. Hero are men plowing in the field, contrary t(^ the Mosaic law, with a donkey and a heifer. And they all liold the little crooked stick of a plow with one lutiid, and the oxgoad with the other. It is just as Ho said, " He that put- teth his lidiid to the plow and looketh l)ack is not tit for the kingdom of God." There is only one hand at it, and it must uever lot go or the woi-k is ruined. Here are the two women grinding at the mill, for the big . millstones are too heavy for one. One pushes the crank halt round, and then the other pushes it the rest of the circle. Here are the sandals, the waterskins, the little gate, called Needle's Eye, and a thousand things that bring one into the very atmosphere and native element of the Bible, and make one feel what a marvelous teacher Jesus was, to fit His para- bles and discourses so wondrously into the conuuon life of the people, and make them alive with the images which ex- pressed their daily life and experience. What is the actual condition of Jerusalem and Palestine, and the so-called Jewish movement ? There is no doubt Lvns. nto "pipo" 1 and iiutics, s. This was to us ; lio )itoously, lie walked lialf ;le coin, not and, as our •ary to the hoy all hold id, and tlm lo that put- } not lit for at it, and it I, for the big . B crank hak" f the circle, gate, called )ne into the }, and make fit His para- niion life of )S which ex- id Palestine, is no doubt />.i }s /.v /'. //./;.s//,\7f. 97 that there is a inovetnent, a forward movement, and a re- markable one. Uf coui'se, compared with other counti'ies, ralestin(! is yet, in many respects, a disappointment and a desolation. The land and ev«'n the roads are still cov«'red with barren rocks and desolati; ruins. But, compa'-^d with itself a quaiter of a century ago, or even fifteen years ago it is making extraordinary progress. Tliere is now a railway running from Jerusalem to Jaffa, and three more are under way in Northern Palestine. Jerusa- lem is a city of nearly 70,000 people, and Nablous,— ancient Shechem~-100,oOO, and both growing rapidly. Jaffa, Haiffa, Nazareth, Hebron, Beyrut, Damascus, are all prosperous. Inside of five years, the great mail route from P:ngland to In- dia will most probably pass through Northern Palestine, and will save over seven days on the time now occupied by the Sue/ Canal. We were not able to visit Galilee, but were told by gentlemen just from there that it is in every way far in ad- vance of Southern Palestine, and most of the soil good and productive. The Jewish colonies have been most successful, and the foreign capital and enterprise that have been invest- ed in the country have paid well, where wisely directed. What about the Jewish movement ? Undoubtedly it is making all the progress it can. There are 40,00o Jews, at least, in Jerusalem, several thousand in Tiberias, and a good m ny in the colonies and at other points. There would have been far more if they had been allowed. Just after the Russian persecution they began to arrive in whole shiploads. The Turks and others at Jerusalem became alarmed and sent 9» J.ARcr.K Ol'TI.OOKS OS MI.^^IOSARY I.AXPS, a |»elinon to the SuUan, ami tho whole movoment was i^wpped, ami no rnoi'e Jews jxTmif ted to land. Thin, |)oilia|»s, wfitf p/' 'deal ill, as such rniml"* '-^ would have hroiight plagiu' jiiid starvation if they had <'«>iitiniu'd. But they aro still coiniiig in, more '|ui(>tly. Tho Sultan has hitely passed a tirniiui forhidding Jinvs to huy any nuuv propei-ty in Palestine. Hut this cannot last. There was nuich destitution among the Jews in Jerusalem a year ago, and tliere still is among some of the ])oorer classes ; hut many of them are engaged in industry and trades, and whole streets are occupied with their shops. There is also a v(>ry large fund contrihuted hy Jews in all j)arts of the woi'ld for tlieir jmor hrethren in Palestine. What are \\w ])i'ospects of Christian work among them ? Much of the Christian work in Palestine is among the Mos- lems and Greeks, and the prospects among the former are more hopeful than in any other land. But there is also much good work among the Jews, and some result. We talked with a very earnest yoimg Hebrew at one of the meetings, who was just about ready to confess Christ, and seemed most sincere and intelligent. One of the mis- sionaries speaks of a movement even among the Rabbis. At least the door is open to give them the message, and this is our business,— the rest is the Lord's. L pon the whole, wo are much more favorably impressed with Palestine, with the spirit of the workers, and with the prospects of Christian work there than we expected to *>'. We looked for greater desolation than we found, and \vt. r..ixns. lovement was This, |)»>rhMi>s, havt' hrouKht But tlioy are iddiug Jews to s cannot last, n JcriiHalcMn a )()orer classes ; 1(1 trades, and There is also 1 parts of the among them ? long the Mos- he former are e is also much rew at one of onfess Christ, e of the mis- e Rabbis. At ;e, and this is ibly impressed and with the icpected to bo. bund, 'tnd we n.ns fx r.iLiiSr/XE. 99 found much greater signs of life and progress than we ex- pected. Let us pray mightily for tlH> breaking of the Turkish yoke, the influx of a new population, and the i)reparati(.u of the way for the return of the best classes of the Jewish i)eo- ple, the true "Kings of the p:ast." And, above all, let us plead for *' the Spirit of grace and POOL OF DAVID, HEBRON. supplication to be poured out upon the house of David and the inhabitants of Jerusalem," and a bap' ism of heavenly power in the Holy Ghost on all who labor for the Jews. When we were at Hebron they showed us the Pool of David, and remarked that it was full this year, and there would be a good and piosperous year, for the rains had been abundant, and the crops would be good. The Pool of David Avus the criterion of the rainfall and prosperity of the country. .1 1 ■■ . in T-'t - ICX) LARGER OUTLOOKS O^^ MISSIONARY LANDS, There is another pool,— the hlessed Holy Ghost, 0, when that is full in every heart, and every mission field, the harvest of the world will be all right. That is the need of Jerusalem, of Palestine, of the heathen world, of the churches and land at home. For this, let us cry "until the Spirit be poured upon us from on high, and the wildernesa be a fruitful field, and the fruitful field be counted for a forest." Isaiah xxxii : 1"). ZION'S AWAKING. Awake, awake ; O Zion, Arise, Jerusalem ; Shake olT thy chains and sackcloth. Put on thy diadem. Thy night is almost over, Thy dawning draweth near, Thy day of Promise basteth,— Thy King will soon appear. Long hath thy midnight lasted, Hard hath thy bondage been ; Cruel the shame and anguish Thy weeping eyes have seen ; But lift thine eyes, O Israel, Forget thy Wailing Place ; Once more thy King is coming In glory and in grace. Thy sons are crowding to thee, Thy wastes are tilled once more, Thy latter rains returning. As in the days of yore ; Thy vineyards and thy olives Once more the mountains crown. And 'neath their vine and flg-tree Once more thy sons sit down. '}' LANDS. /KDS /.V I'AI.rSTlXE. lOI Holy Ghost. 0, mission field, the at is the need of I world, of the us cry "until the id the wilderness je counted for a 1, wn, y~rrz'sr"^^;m>" Once more the grapes of Eschol In Hebron's vale are seen ; Onoe more the plain of Sharon Ih clothed in ricliest fjreen ; The orange groves of Jaffa Hang rich with harvests rare, And hill and valley blossom With flowers sweet and fair. Thy streets and walls are spreading With many a structure fair ; Thy thoroughfares are crowded With tranic t'verywhiM-e ; Thy limits stretching northward Fulfill the sacred sign, And soon thy walls will cover The Prophet's measuring line. And many a town and hamlet Is growing o'er the land, The harbinger of progress. And brighter days at hand. And many a little circle Of Israels sons has come, And In thine ancient valleys 11 as found a prosperous home. And now the engine's whistle Is heard on Sharon's plain, And Judah's mountains echo The rushing railway train. Yes, and o'er Syrian railways. They tell us soon will ixmr The trade of western nations To India's distant shore. The messengers of Jestis Are gathering at thy gates, And many a faithful watchman In Zlon works and waits ; I I02 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. Once more from Zion's threshold The stream begins to How, Whose deeper floods of blessing To all the lands shall go. From many a crue' nation Thy suffering children flee, Not knowing God is planniug To drive them home to thee. Thy strange, pathetic story, Men cannot understand ;— A land - without a people,— A race— without a land. But Israel shall be gathered. From every race and clime, On Zion's holy mountain In God's apiKjinted time. But first, the chosen "remnant" Their Saviour mutt receive. The "firrit fruits" of the nation The gospel must believe. And then, from Gentile nations The Lord mutt bring His own. And "unto ever creature The witness be made known. Then, He hath surely promised. The glorious end shall come ; The King shall come to Zlon An I Israel gather home. We hail that glorious morning ; All things in « arth and sky, And even in scatter* d Israel Proclaim its advent nigh. Awake, awake ; O Zion, Thy day begins to dawn ! Lord, haste its glad appearing,-- Help us to speed it on. VIII. UNDER THE SHADOW OF THE PYRAMIDS. ALTOGETHER we have spent a week in Egypt, and al- jr\^ thongh yet it has been mucli broken, it has been enough to give a very vivid, and perhaps fairly correct, impression of tliis oldest country of the world. Three days have been spent in Cairo—which is not only the centre and capital of Elgypt, but, in a sense, a miniature of the world, for almost all nations and religions are represented in its curi- ous and motley crowds. Our business at this time is not sight-seeing, but the higher business of the Master. We ha\ e had time, incidentally, to read many pages from that mar- vellous book of time and history, which so strangely empha- sizes and confirms in every line the grander Book of Ood, Cairo, even as a modern city, isi ntensely interesting. It is the second city in the Turkish Empire, and the largest in Africa. It has a population of nearly 400,000, of whom L'O,- 000 are Europeans, and the rest are Egyptians, Abyssinians, Arabs, Turks, Syrians, and re])resentatives of almost every country in Western Asia and Northern Africa. The streets around the new hotels and the ICsebekeyah Gardens are quite modern and very handsome. Three or four of the hotels are very fine, large and fashionable; and, at this season, are over- crowded with English and American travellers. The most interesting portion of Cairo is the older city, which dates back to the time of the Calii)hs and Saracens. 10.1 I04 LARGER OVTLOOk'S ON MISSIONARY LANDS. Its streets are very iian-ow, crociked, and crowdcMl with l){vzaars of every kind, where every ten feet an Arah, or Turk, or some other curious-lookin^i? man is sitting cross-legged at a little hole in the wall, like a little prairie dog at his den. and surround- ed hy his special wares. Most of them hav(> factory and warehoiise all in one small space. In Cai- ro each trade has a separated )azaar, and so you will find the shoemakers and slipper vendoi's on one alley making and selling theii' wares at the same time. A little farth- er on is the hrass hazaar, and there you can find the workers in hrass, making and chasing with their fine tools their vases, coffee pots, candlesticks, urns, and all sorts of hrass goods. The goldsmiths have a (luarter, the rug and carpet dealers, the silk emhroid- A STREET IN CAIRO. AKDS. •owdod Avitli ral), or Turk, is-l«^ggo(l at a liolc in the like a little (log at his lul siui'ound- his special Most of them factory and Diiseallinone space. InCai- 1 trade has a tehazaai', and I will find the iiakers and • vendors on dley making selling their at the same A little farth- is the hrass 1-, and there 3an find the srs in brass, es, coffee pots, 'he goldsmiths silk einbi-oid- VNJ)/:A- TIIIC SHADOW OF -1 III-: PYRAMIDS. 105 erers, the dealers iu prints, etc., and one's eyes are dazzled and bewildered by the most glaring colors, and his ears al- most deafened by the jargon of many tongnes and ci-ies of eager vendors and bargain makers. If you want to pnichase CAIRO. anything you may always count on a reduction of from 50 to jou have it for Io6 LARGER OUTLOOKS OiV MLSSIONARV LAXDS. that low price, anrl then you may l)e |»r('tty suit", in most cases, that he has the hest of the har^ain. The view of Cairo from the citadel i« surpassingly beauti- ful. The elevatiou is quite high and commands a wide and striking panorama. All around you is historic ground. The balcony on which you are standing is i)art of the most beau- tiful moscpie in Cairo, perhaps in the world, the Mosque of Mohammed Ali, whose graceful minarets and magnificent dome are but indexes of the exquisite interior, surpassing, we think, except only in its windows, the interior of the Moscpie of Omar at Jerusalem. At our feet Cairo lies spread, a brilliant panorama of houses, streets, minarets and domes. More than three hun- dred mosipies are in the picture, a forest of graceful spires and minarets, imequalled for striking beauty of design by anything in the world. At night the tops of many of these minarets are lighted all round the narrow windows which sur- mount their graceful summits, and they look like lamps suspended from the skies. To the left, lies old Cairo. Away in the distance the Nile runs, like a silver thread, as the western boundary of the modern city. Across the Nile rise the massive Pyramids, about five miles distant. Fring- ing lines of acacias and palms stretch giacefully along the river, and fields clothed in living green spi'ead away off to the right — down to the luxuriant Delta,---vvhile beyond the Pyramids to the west, the sandhills and plains of the desert stretch out till they meet the distant horizon.. Looking up the Nile to the left you see the outlines of other pyramids, sharply cut against the sky — about ten or lie, in most it<;ly beauti- a wide and •ouiul. Thn } most beau- Mosque of magnificent [•passing, we the Mos(iue •anorama of three hun- iceful spires >f design by any of these s which sur- like lamps airo. Away read, as the ss the Nile ant. Fring- jfully along away off to beyond the f the desert the outlines about ten or uxi)/:r rm: snAimw of thi: rvRAMins. 107 twelve miles away. Tliis is Sakkara, the site of ancient Memphis, once tlie capital of lower Egypt, and the seat of the Pharaohs, where still arc to be seen many wonderful monum<'nts and tombs. You are looking on tlie relics of fifty centuries. The well beside you is called the well of Joseph ; the pyramids AN ANCIENT EGYPTIAN TEMPLE. before you were there when Abraham entered the land. The little island of Roda, yonder beside old Cairo, is said to be the place where Moses was found, but this is more than doubtful. But yonder ruins at Memphis doubtless mark the site of the splendid court where he might have reigned ; and had he not refused to be called the son of Pharaoh's daugh- " io8 LARCER orr/.OOh'S ox MISS/O.WIRY L.ixns. tor, his muniniy W(»ul(l probably to-day lie foiin«l in tbo royal company that stand hi a row in the famous nuiscuni yonder that wo visited to-day. WoU, Moses had a grander tomb on Nt'bo's lu'ight, and he stands to-day in tlio glory Avliirli shone out for a jnonient on the Transfiguration night, Avitii a body wliich pool' old Rameses would give all Egy])t to jtosaess and beside wliich all the obsolete grandeur of Mem- l)his, Thebes, Zoan, Luxor and Karnak are poor and con- temptible indeed. Of course we went to the Pyramids. It is a delightful drive of about two hours, over a splendid road built by old Ismail Pasha, the Khedive Avho gave Egypt nearly all her Avondorfnl imi)i()vements ; and, in oi-der to do it, loaded her with the enoi-mons debt that has brought in the English army of occu])ation, to guarantee the interest to the English capitalists who hold the bonds. This has reduced Egypt to the condition, i)ractically, of a British jirovince. It is said, the old Khedive, after visiting Paris, resolved to make his fair capital a second Paris ; and so he went on cutting boulevards, laying out gardens, planting avenues, building ])alaces, and rearing mosques, until he had realized his fond ambition, and, at the same time, reduced his country to udnkrupt(-y, as the price of his beautiful dream. The road to tht^ Pyramids is lined with fine acacia trees, and thronged with long lines of loaded camels, donkeys, and women coming into market. The camels carry more than half a ton on their immense backs ; the donkey, about one- sixth of the size, has nearly half as big a load. After seeing V7).S". 11(1 in tho s iimscum a grander 11)0 glory tion night, 11 Egy])t to V of Mem- r and con- del iglitfnl •uilt by old rly all her loaded lu'r lie English ;he English fl Egypt to It is said, ake his fair )oulevaids, alaces, and lition, and, toy, as the nacia trees, nkeys, and. more than about one- fter seeing r'NDF.K Till': siiAPow or i iii: rvkWMins. 109 the donkeyy of Palestine and Egypt, we shall never again joke nor Hiiflfer others to joke about the noble ass. Our horse in Palestine stumbled and fell on us ; but our donkey in Egyi)t carried us about Avilh luxurious ease, and all the arts of horsemanship wen; (juitf* unncc<'ssary. You have only to sit in the c(Mnfoitable saddle, and let him trot or c£inter along as he jileases, while your donkey boy runs behind, goading and guiding liim whither he will. He always manages to go right, and gets through i)laces no other creat- ure ever could. He can go on stony jjaths or mountain passes, or crowded thoroughfares, or narrow passages, with perfect coolness and safety ; and stands with a patience, which many a Christian might well imitate, hardships and cruelties which have often made us feel ashamed of the master and jiroud of the soulless hrute. They beat him, sometimes they half starve him, tliey load him down till his knees fairly tremble, and he just goes on his way fulfilling his useful course with a i)atience worthy of a higher nature. Some one in Palestine asked an Arab how long a donkey would live. "If you feed him," replied the Arab, " he will live forever." One would think so, when you see how long they live with their present treatment. No Moslem nor Arab ever feels insulted when you call him an ass. You can hardly pay him a higher compliment. But there is another burden bearer in the train. It is the Egyptian woman. Everywhere you can see her with her big basket .or earthen pitcher on her head, walking erect as a statue, and carrying it without a quiver, and without even no LARCEK Ol'TLOOKS OX MlSSfOXARY /..tXPS. w touching it with one of licr lingi'is. Wo saw ji woman yes- tenhiy trying to take up a hurdi-n wliich sho could not Hft to licr licad, but liad to get a nuui to lielpher to load it up ; hut, when onc(> she got it on the littlo cushion upon thu crown of her head, she started olT as ciisily as if sht> liad only an ostrich feather there. Most of their faces are coveied, except Ine eyes and brow, and a great many wear a hideous brass ornament be- tween their eyes, that gives them an outlandish exjjression. The one thing lacking in all these scenes is the face and pres- ence of a true woman. One sees the dear children every- Avhere, in all their simplicity, fi-eedom and real beauty, but we look and long in vain for the women we ai'c accustomed to see in our Christian civilization. Woman is left out of oriental society, and life is withered and blighted by the un- natural omission. The higher classes are shut away in idle, luxurious isolation ; the lower are almost beasts of burvlen for their lords and mastei-s. The softening, refining, elevating influence of woman's society is wholly lost. Some of the missionaries told us what a surprise it was when they invited Moslem gentlemen in to spend a social evening, to find they could sit and talk on social terms with women. It was to them a new, and, we are glad to believe, to many a delightful world, and gave them an attractive view of the sweet, human side of Christianity. Little does w^oman know what she owes to Christianity, and little does man realize how much w^oman's elevation has Senefited him, and lifted up his life and happiness. I.\7)S. woman yes- Id not lift to :1 it np ; but, [>e crown of ly an ostrich lie (ivcs and rnamcnt bo- exprcssion. ,ce and pios- dron every- boauty, but accustomed left out of 1 by the un- vvay in idle, f buivlen for g, elevating pi'ise it was ■nd a social terms with to believe, ractive view :loes woman ) does man }d him, and a: > u I H S < cc I Immmn ijiMHi i » i n-. ' aii» i i w 111 U I ^- o z < 1) a s < UJ I rxn/:K rm: sii.inow of the rvK.iMnis. I II Olio boautinil picture we must give. It was on that Hame road to the I 'y nvinids Among many others, wo met a woman carrying a great load upon lier liead. But in her arms nho also lu'Id a babe ; and we noticed that she liad hotli her arms about lier child, and trusted the burden to her skill and strength, but held \wv ])recious child in a mother's loving arms. It was the mother heart triumphing over even the thought of her material interest. It reminded us of Him who carries the government upon His shoulders, but He holds His children in His arms ! But we have got to the Pyramids. Yes, there they are ! "These mighty Pyramids of Htone, That wedgelike ch'ave the deMert aire, When nearer seen and better known Are hut gigantic steps of stairs. " But what enormous stairs they are ! Four hundred and seventy feet high, and twice ns> wide at the base. And the steps are great stone Ijlocks, about a yard high, so that you have to be pulled up by thi'ee stout Arabs, and coming down, held by a long turban tied around your waist to keep you from falling down headforemost. We n'jed not stay to give their history. They are great tombs built by one of the oldest of the Egyptian kings — Cheops — before the time of Abraham. The interior consists of a long passage downward, for a while at an angle of forty- five degrees, and then upward, followed by a level passage, ending at last in a lai-ge gallery, called the King's Chamber, under which is a smaller one called the Queen's Chamber. 112 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON AUSSIONARY LANDS. Here were found the sarcophagi and mummies. Tlie passages are ventilated by air shafts from above. 0, what a waste of toil and treasure for a transient tomb ! In keeping with this was the skill and expense bestowed upon the embalming of the dead. The Egyptians built the houses of the living of perishable brick, and the houses of tlie dead of enduring granite. Was it the fear of death that made them struggle so hard to resist its ravages ? Was it the idea of immortality that made them long to keep the very dust from perishing ? Or was it their strange idea that while the body lasted, the spirit continued to exist in Para- dise ; but if the earthly frame should vanish, the spirit-life would forever fade away ? Poor things ! how vain their tre- mendous fight with death ! How ghastly and ineffectual the triumphs of all their splendid mortuary architecture ! How easily faith leaps at a bound from yonder open grave at Jeru- salem into the glorious reality which all these mummies, tombs an 1 pyramids only shadowed faintly and afar off ! Oh, how we thank Him who "has abolished death and brought life and immortality to light through the Gospel." Many of our readers know that a very elaborate effort has been made by such writers as Piazzi Smith, Dr. Seiss, and others, to prove that the internal passages and chambers of the great Pyramid are prophetic of the future ages. They have found in the scales of measurement, and the relative di- mensions of the passages, and many other most interesting particulars, a sort of diagram of the course of time up to the Lord's return; also they believe that the "pillar on the HHIMMHipi LANDS. . Tlie passages ^'hat a waste of pense bestowed ptiaiis built tbe he houses of tlie • of death that vages ? Was it )ng to keep the trange idea that > exist in Para- 1, the spirit-Ufe .V vaiu their tre- 1 ineffectual the litecture ! How sn grave at Jeru- hese mummies, Y and afar off ! shed death and 1 the Gospel." elaborate eifort mith, Dr. Seiss, BS and chambers ;ure ages. They i the relative di- most interesting f time up to the "pillai* on the UNDER THE SHADOW OF THE PYRAMIDS. 113 border of Egypt," mentioned by Isaiah, is nothing nlse than this old Pyramid of Ghizeh. The argument is certainly very plausible, and the coinci- dences strange; but to many it is probably somewhat strained, and, at best, a system of very extraordinary correspondences. Happily, we have "a more sure word of i)rophecy "' than old Pharaoh's necropolis. The Arabs, donkeys and camels were almost as interest- ing to us as the Pyramids. They (the Arabs) had a great fight for half a piastre, which one had failed properly to share with the others. There were screams and blows, and, for a while, nearly all the crowd took a hand in it, but nobody was, hurt. The coin in question is only about three cents. The Sphinx is wonderful. It stands ({uite near the great Pyramid. The actual view of that face of stone is very touching. The expression of calm repose and gentleness is not imaginary. It seems Hke old Father Time, looking down on one hundred and fifty generations of his children, and smiling at "Their clalmH of long descent" What children we all are under the shadow of that face of nearly five thousand years ago ! But even thou, ancient Sphinx, art but a shadow of the "Rock of Ages,'— that Blessed One who is "the same yesterday, and to-day, and for- ever,' with whom " a thousand years are as one day, and one day as a thousand years," and whose heart has been "our dwelHng-place in all generations." The most wonderful Museum in the world now stands 114 LARGER OUTLOOK'S ON ?TISSIONARY LANDS. midway between the Pyramids and Cairo. It is the famous Museum of Egyptian antiquities, establislied through the labors and researches of Mariette, Brugsch Bey, and other Egyptologists, and contains nearly all the best results of the explorations and discoveries of the past few years. It was formerly at Bulak, but has now been removed to the old pabce of the Khedive. The building is most magnificent, and the gardens luxuriant beyond description. One gets some idea, from looking at this palace and grounds, of the selfish indulgence of oriental despots. Grottoes, fountains, walks, bridges, hanging gardens, sum- mer houses, trees, shrubs, flowers of every kind, make it like a dream of beauty. The very walks, for miles, are mosaics of inlaid stones, and the garden walls are built of stucco and coral, with niches in the masonry for the trees and flowers, and all so wound together as to look like natural rocks and pine -covered terraces of tropical luxuriance. And all this was supplied by the toil and suffering of a whole nation for the indulgence of one selfish man, and, perhaps, three or four hundred poor women, whom he held in luxurious slavery in this and half a dozen other similar palaces. What a farce the government of this world is, and how we long for the true King ! The interior of the palace is still more splendidly deco- rated. But it is now put to a better use, as the repository of the treasures of Egypt's tombs. The only defect about it is the lack of proper i)rovision in case of fire. A single hour might destroy, by sudden conflagration, treasures which could not be bought for hundreds of millions. LANDS, UNDER Tirr. SHADOW OF THE PYRAMIDS. "5 is the famous [ through the 5ey, and other results of the years. It was red to the old i magnificent, is palace and mtal despots, [gardens, sum- 3, make it like are mosaics of of stucco and 9 and flowers, iral locks and And all this lole nation for 3, three or four ous slavery in hat a farce the y for the true Dlendidly deco- le repository of ect about it is A single hour es which could We were informed that no less than one million dollars we^e offered hy some parties in the United States for the privilege of exhibiting the mummy of old Rameses in the United States for a short time. Of course, it was refused ; and many millions could not buy it. We were surprised at the great number of monuments that are preserved from the fourth and fifth dynas - ties, — long before the time of Abraham. The amount of costly and t xquisite jewelry found on the mum mies, and preserved in tbe Museum, shows how advanced the fine arts were in the ear- liest periods. Of course, the great object of our interest, and the centre of at traction to all the visitors, wa^ the great Central Chamber where the royal mummies are on exhibition. There the centre of interest was the great Rameses II., the oppressor of the Israelites, and his face and head were even more ex- RAM eses II. ^\ Il6 I.ARGliR OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. pressive of character and forco than even the excellent photograph that most of us have seen. There was ^his father Scti, and most of his successors for a long time, with the strange exception of his son and successor, Meneptah, the Pharaoh of the Exodus. Where is his body ? Why do we not have his mummy ? Will it yet be found, or is it in the bottom of the Red Sea 'i Strange, the i-evenges of history and Providence ! We should think that every Jew would like to go and look at that hdlpless face. The man that cast little Mosea into the Nile, and ground the lives of three millions of people to the dust, is not terrible now. The humblest Hebrew caa look in his face and laugh him to scorn. So will all our terri- ble foes be some day. Only wait ! The story of the finding of these mummies was very won- derful, and was surely one of those providences which are so strangely making the ages meet in the last age of time, and causiuj^ the recoi'ds of nature to confirm God's Holy Word in the face of man's proud infidelity. It was this : Up at ancient Thebes, which was the faA-^orite capital of old Rameses, they had his tomb and the tombs of many of the preceding and succeeding kings, and there was no doubt of the identification ; but they could not find the sarcophagus or the mummy. All the tombs, indeed, were empty. They searched in vain, and it seemed as if the mystery woidd never be unsealed. But, one day, it was found that an Arab was selling some costly relics that evidently belonged to these tombs. Mr. Mariette, one of the leading Egyptologists, \NDS. le excellent cro was his • g timo, with eneptah, the Why do we is it in the f history and :e to go and I little Mose& )ns of people Hebrew can. all our terri- asvery wou- which are bo 3f time, and [oly Word in te capital of 1 of many of 'as no doubt sarcophagus iipty. They would never an Arab was ged to these gyptologists. UNDER THE SHADOW OF THE PYRAMIDS. 117 learned of it, and found him out. A large sum was demanded for the secret— $2,500— and it was instantly granted ; and, indeed, was but a fraction of the real value— millions would "be given to-day. And the secret was divulged. A secret passage was found, which this man had accidentally discov- ered, leading down to a large subterranean <;hamber, very plain and simple, to which, in a time of threatened war and danger, the care-taker of the tombs had removed all the royal munmiies for safety. And there, in that lone gallery, Ram- eses and his family of kings were found lying in silence and obscurity, waiting God's hour for them to come forth and attest the truth of His ancient story. No wonder that the great Brugsch Bey, when he stood in that royal chamber of the silent dead, raised his hands and said, "Have I lived to see this day if " The interest and profit of our visit to this Museum, even for one brief afternoon, was greatly increased by the presence of a friend who resides in Cairo, one of the American mis- sionaries, who had given much intelligent study and consid- erable research to this most interesting field. One of our most interesting and memorable visits was to the great Mohammedan University of Cairo, the famous Mosque of El Azhar. It is the largest university in the world, and the principal Mohammedan school. Of course, we had to get a permit, and <;p enter the sacred enclosure with sandaled feet. They used to require the Chris- tians to put off thoir shoes, but now, by a sort of whitewash- ing process, they put on a ])air of holy sandals over your shoes — foi- the consideration of a few piastres. Il8 LARCUR orTLOOKS ON AriSSrON.IR) f .'1NDS. We have seldom been more touched than by the scene in this old Mosque. In a vast enclosure, filled with pillars and corridors, were scores of groups like the classes of a great Sunday School, all sitting crosslegged on the door, each group gathered round a teacher, who was sitting' among them and teaching them with all his might something from the Koran. They are said to teach everything here ; not only Moslemism and the Koran, but also other branches. What touched us was the intense earnestness of both teachers and students. The adults v/ere all men, and they seemed to be men of one idea. Many of the teachers wore the green turban, showing that they had been to Mecca and had accomplished the Pilgrimage so sacred to Moslems. There are said to be 10,000 to 12,o00 students in attendance always at this school, almost all preparing for missionary work throughout the world. We saw no such number as this, but there were a good many hundred. We saw enough, however, to let us realize the intense earnestness and power of this system based on one book, and interweaving that book with all their higher and lower education, and making it the chief text book in all their schools. If Christianity had treated the Bible as Mohammedanism the Koran, it would long ago have become the religion of the world. There is one thing of which we need have no doubt— and that is, the intense and entire satisfaction and enthusiasm with which Moslems regard their rehgion, and the contempt with which they regard all others. They look upon Christi- anity as a religion from which tliey have taken all that is '1NDS. the scene in I pillars and s of a great [•, each group ig them and [1 the Koran. r Moslemism ness of both en, and they eachers wore o Mecca and to Moslems. II attendance r missionary h number as saw enough, ;s and power ing that book uaking it the istianity had ran, it would o doubt — and i enthusiasm the contempt upon Christi- an all that la y^v.y>^fa^naaa^ 120 LARGER Ol'TI.OOKS OX MFSSrONARY LANDS. worth keeping, and have addea the lugher lovelation of Mo- liammed. Tliey have heen through Christianity and got be- yond it. 'J'liey accept Abraham, Moses, Christ, hut Moham- med is beyond them all, the last and greatest of thi^ ])r()phet8. Our dragoman said to us yesterday, in the Moscpie of Mo- hanuued Mi, "They teach us in the miiversity that (iod is one, only one. He has no Father, no Mother, no Son." And lie looked as if he had a self-evident truth. They regard all Christians as believing that Mary is the Mother of God, and they hate it. Nothing has so hindered Christianity in the world and in the East as the absurd cari- catures of the Roman and Greek Churches. During our visit to Cairo the Roman Carnival was ob- served. The whole day was given n\) to processions and pan- tomimes, just like the Mardi (Iras of New Orleans. The Avhole thing was a lmrles(iue and a farce. But everybody went out to see it, and the day was a public holiday. It was considered by the Moslems as the beginning of the Oiristian season of fasting and i.rayer, and the missionaries were con- gratulated all round on the Christian feast, and wishes ex- tended to them for a year of blessing. What but the power of God, and a real and living Christianity, can ever meet and counteract this awful caricature ! Unfortunately too many of our English and American Christians leave an influence but little better. But few of them ever find out the missions or the missionaries, and their influence among the natives reminds one of the prayer of the little Sunday Schoolgirl in Brooklyn, one night, just as l^DS. UNDER THE SHADOW OF THE I'YRAMIDS. I ,'I ,ion of Mo- uld v^oi be- lut Moham- et ])r()pyiet9. (jiu" of Mo- :luii (iod is Son." Aud Vlary is the so hindered ibsurd cari- val was ob- )ns and pan- leans. The t everybody lay. It was le Christian (s were con- 1 wishes ex- t the power er meet and d American But few of ouaries, and F the prayer light, just as they were preparing to go to the coimtry for tlie summer vacation. Slie knelt down at her little cot-side, and was lieard to say, "Dood-bye, l)()d, wc's goin' to the country." But there is a most excellent missionary work being done in Kgypt. The pleasantest incident of our visit to Cairo was our visit to the American Mission coimected with the United Presbyterian Church of this country. We were most cour- teously received, and foimd tlu; Mission in a most flourishing condition. There are now stations in all the f^gyptian prov- inces, and a large and growing work is going forward. There are over :?()(» pupils in the .school in Cairo, and nearly 4.(MK» communicants in all Egypt. There are a few Moham- medan converts, but the work is chit^fly among the Copts, the old National Christian Chuich of Egypt, but one that has more degent>rated than perhajjs any of the oriental churches. AVe hear, however, of important changes that are taking place, and some look forward toward reform. We cannot too highly express our api)reciation of the kindness received from some of the members of the Mission- ary Home in Cairo, and oiu* gratitude to God for the work that has been acconii)lished. But little work is done by any other Society. The Churcli Missionary Society of England lias a few laborers. And yet, after all, the Egyptian nation with its millions of Moslems has been but lightly touched, and we need to pray much for Egypt. How wonderfully God has fulfilled prophecy in this old ■I ^^BSI^mKs-i^iiO^ m^" 122 LARGER Orri.OOKS OX MfSS/ON.lRY f.ANPS. laud 1 It is, indeed, " the basest of kingdoms," and the pres- ence of English soldiers evcuywhero makes one feel how truly God has remembertid His ancient word r(>apecting it, and held it in a place; of subjection and humiliation. But there is hope for Egypt yet, in the same prophetic Word. The plan of the ages has linked Egyi)t with Israel in the promises of the Millennial Age. Lord, hasten that longed-for day 1 IVPS. nd tho pres- 10 feci how specting it, »n. o prophetic with IsriK'l lastc'ii that IX. ISMAILIA TO BOMBAY. AVPiRY slow and tcnHous railway lido of soveii hours, which, according to tho schedulo time, should only havo hoeu three hours and a half, took us from Cairo to Ismailia ahout one o'clock in the morning, and at five -we were awakened hastily to meet our steamer for India. Our Aral) attendant had promised exuberantly, tlu; night before, to awake us an hour before the time for starting, but when the morning came, he forgot to call us until tho tender was about ready to start ; and we got a gooil illustration of the necessity of being " always ready " for the Master's call. Wo were glad we had everything packed tht^ previous night and had not nuich di-essing to do. "VVo found tho "Oceana" a very fine boat, (pn'tc equal to car best Atlantic steamers. Down the R< ' a slm has made faster time than the "Servia" did, attaining about 375 miles a day. We have a most deiigiitful party of passengers, including quite a number of ministers and missiouari(?s going to the East. Every mv uing at ten thej'o is a daily prayer-meeting, which is a time uf refreshing, and there is less drinking than we have yet seen on any steamship. The second class saloon accommodation is sub'^<;uitially t»3 124 LARGER OrTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY LA jYDS. as good as the first class on the Atlantic steamers. Tliis is not true, however, of niany of the steamers. We are sorry, in one sense, that we have to leave her at Aden and take a smaller steamer for Bombay, as the "Oceana" goes on direct to Culombo and Australia. But we shall keep a few of our passengers, who are going also to India, and, we doubt not, our dear and mindful JMaster has prepared even better things for us there. His good- ness to us in this whole voyage is be- yond the power of words to express. We have been con- scious every mo- ment of a cloud of ceaseless prayer en- compassing us, and His Presence has been real, restful and comforting as never before. Truly He has tra\elled with us all the way, and we love to commend Him to lonely hearts. Like a little child we go on, not knowing AN ARAB DHOW. LAjXPS. ISMAFLIA TO IWMnAY. 125 mei's. Tliis is ;o leave her at nibay, as the ?ana" goes on t to Colombo \.ustralia. But iiall keep a few Lir passengei's, are going also iidia, and, we t not, our dear nindful ]\Iaster prepared even ■r things for us ;. His good- to us in this e voyage is be- [ the power of Is to express, have been con- is every mo- t of a cloud of iless prayer en- n real, restful s has tra\elled imend Him to , not knowing much before, and we find all the way prepared, and are ever conscious of His interposing and protecting love. On our journey in Palestine from Jerusalem to Bethel our horse gave a sudden spring, and the next moment he was down on his side, falling on our right leg. It seemed inevit- able that we must be injured. But we rose and walked along awhile to get our joints adjusted, and looked up to Him with thanks and trust, aud found, that beyond a little sprain in one hand, a scratch on the other arm, and a little bruising of the muscles of the leg, we were not injured at all, and even the little touch of pain He quite took away — in a little while. Our friend urged us to exchange horses and let him take ours ; but we felt it would really be distrust, and would look like depending on the other horse rather than upon God, and so we simply watched our pony more carefully, and kept look- ing to the Lord^ and got through the day delightfully. The next day, as we were driving to Hebron, our Arab driver got very cold, and jumped from the seat, and ran be- hind the carriage awhile to get warm. The carriage blinds were down, and we did not see him or know exactly what he was doing, when, suddenly, we heard a cry, and found the wheel had gone over a steep embankment ; the carriage was just holding by the axle, which was fiat on the ground. We leaped out and thanked the Lord for keeping us from going over. Then we helped the poor fellow, who was white with fear, to draw the carriage back on the road by turning the team across the road, and pulling hard ; and we went on trusting and watching. We do not mean at all to encourage II ''S^S^K' SSI'S 126 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MrSSfOXARY LAXDS, carelessness. We endeavor to be wise and watchful, but all our watching cannot anticipate the ten thousand perils that are ever around us, and it is so blessed to know and con- stantly find that He is, indeed, our Keeper, and v-hal He never slumbers nor sleeps. We find the sun in this Eastern world has a strange and dangerous power. Even when the air is so chilly that you have to keep on a heavy overcoat, you must not let the direct rays of the sun strike your head, or you are conscious of a very curious sensation, and would soon become ill. We are fitted out with pith hats, and learn to use white umbi^llas The promise has a very real meaning: "The Ijord if thj Keeper ; the Lord is thy shade on thy right hand ; the sun shall not smite thee by day. " The Arabs all cover their heads, both from the cold and heat. Their turbans consist of a very long piece of muslin folded over and over again, and, although they look so hot, they really shield the head from the sun, and keep it in a wholesome perspiration. In the cold- est weather the Arab's feet and legs are usually quite bare ; but, if he can get his head muffled up, he feels quite com- fortable. How the customs of the country constantly speak to us about the Bible ! For example, riding the other day through the crowded streets of Cairo, with our donkey boy running behind us, we did not need to think about our road, so long as he was silent, but just went on without anxiety ; but when we heard his voice we knew there was something to be done — either a turn or a halt. How it recalled the words : ' LAXDS. atchful, but all land perils that know and con- ', and v,hal He s a strange and chilly that you ot let the direct i conscious of a ne ill. We are hite umbi'^llas he liord if th^ hand ; the sun ver their heads, QS consist of a ver again, and, e head from the 1. In the cold- ally quite hare ; 3els quite com- bly speak to us er day through By boy running r road, so long b anxiety ; but omething to be lied the words : ISM AIL [A TO DOM DAY. 127 "Thou shalt hear a voice behind thee, saying, This is the way, walk ye in it, when ye turn to the right hand and to the left." It is only when we have to turn, that we may need to hear the voice. God is not always speaking to us, but we may be sure we shall hear it when we come to the crisis IRRIGATING ON THE NILE. hours of life, and need to turn round or take any serious new step. When we have His silence and peace, let us go on with simple trust and confidence. Then we noticed that the voice was always b^hind us. And so God leads us and speaks to us out of the quiet moments of recollection, when we take time to hear His gentle voice. 128 LARCER OUTLOOKS ON M/SS/ONARV LANDS. The skies and sunsets of this land are wonderful. The after glow that follows sunset is beautiful and glorious After the sun goes down over the desert, full-orbed and almost crimson-hued, you can see the stars in the zenith in a few seconds. Last night we saw the first star less than three minutes after sunset. And then begins, on the horizon, the most beautiful series of metamorphoses. First, there ia usually a moderate glow in the East, reaching up, perhaps, twenty degrees from the horizon, and rather deeply tinted in amber and gold. But this soon fades, and in the west, right over the place where the sun went down, there hangs a halo of many-tinted glory for some time, changing its varied and blended hues, from pink to crimson, lilac and gold, and at times making you really feel that you are gazing at some superb illumination. The other night in Cairo, more than an hour after sun- set, when it was perfectly dark, and all the stars were out ia every part of the sky but this, the fiery cloud hung for a long time, and we felt, for a time, that there must be a great fire in the city. But it gradually faded away, and we knew that it was just "the after-glow." Last night, over the shores of the Red Sea and the mountains of Abyssinia, it lingered until, at least, three hours after sunset, making one think of the glory that followed the setting of the Sun of Righteousness, and the light that is shining still over the place where He died and rose again, and ascended to shine in other skies, until He shall return some brighter morning, and we shall see in yonder East the Aurora of the Eternal Dawn. clerful. The id glorious d and almost ith in a few than three horizon, the :st, there is up, perhaps, leeply tinted in the west, here hangs a ng its varied nd gold, and zing at some ir after sun- j were out ia I hung for a •e must be a way, and we t night, over Abyssinia, it making one f the Sun of itill over the 3d to shine in morning, and ternal Dawn. ISMAILIA TO liOMllAY. 129 But we have a gladder, grander pleasure even than this. We have just been permitted to see the beginning of the skies of the southern hemisphere, and the beautiful Southern Cross, which is to the sailor of the southern seas very nuich ON THE SUEZ CANAL, what the Pole Star is to the navigator of the north— the Pole star of his sky. To us it was the much more beautiful and significant symbol of our blessed Redeemer. All nature was made for Him and speaks for Him, and, surely, the four crimson stars which form this celestial cross may be permitted to bear wit- Mi 130 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. iiess to Him Avliom His own disciples have so little made known to these southern lands. As we, on the Red Sea, watched its appearence for the first time, we had no interpreter but the voice in our own heart. The hour was late, the passengers were asleep, and we seemed to feel that we had God all to ourselves on this side of the world at least, for, on the other, our blessed Friday meeting was at that very hour going on, and about reaching its close. Up to this time we had been too far north to see this constellation. But now we felt we must be near the ])lace of its appearing, and so we sat upon the deck, in the balmy air that floated over from the Arabian plains, and Avatched the south-eastern sky, as star after star that we had never seen before slowly rose from the sea, floated over a low curve, and sank again into the sea a little farther west. We need not tell our readers that the stars on the southern hori- zon describe a very short course till they disappear. At last a cluster appeared, of about a dozen, out of which gradually we were able to frame a cross, by picking out the brightest and not seeing the others. For a while this seemed to us to be the famous constellation. But it appeared too large, the stars were too mixed and there were too many stars around it that did not form the cross, to satisfy us, and we waited on until it had begun to fade away to the west. Then there came another c(jiistellation, composed mostly of great patches of nebute brighter than the milky way, and looking like a great procession of lamps before some royal pageant. And then there began to rise from the sea three LANDS. SO little made arence for the ce in our own 3re asleep, and rselves on this blessed Friday ibout reaching ir north to see st be near the 18 deck, in the ian plains, and :ar that we had ated over a low ;her west. We ) southern hori- )pear. m, out of which picking out the nile this seemed it appeared too were too many ) satisfy us, and ^ to the west, omposed mostly milky way, and Eore some royal n the sea three SSS^S^K^ ISMAILIA TO IIOMBAV 131 stars of ruby tint, that formed the head of a cross, much smaller than the first we had seen, and, as it rose and rose, the fourth star at length came up below, and lo ! the cross was complete ! There could bo no doubt about this ; it was the tnie Cross— the other but a counterfeit, that had gone before. It had far fewer stars in it. Indeed, all but these four were smaller stars ; these were of the first magnitude. The figure was almost perfect. The right hand horizontal bar was a little higher and shorter than the left, but, with this excep- tion, it was a real cross ; and, as it rose higher and higher, it stood out with bold outline and brilliant glory against the sky. It was but a fancy, a correspondence, but it spoke to us of much. The first cross lepresented the false religions that nave gone before and perplexed and deceived mankind. The nebulae that preceded the true Cross were fine illustrations of the light of proi)hecy and promise that ushered in the great redemption. And the ruby stars (as the astronomers tell us they appear in the telescope) that formed that simple cross proclaimed the precious blood by which we have been redeemed, and the plan of salvation through the sacrifice of Jesus, that bears its own evidence and vindication to all who are willing to look at it fairly. One thing more we noticed. When it first arose, the cross was slanting, as if ready to fall ; but, as it moved on, it grew erect and passed out of view with its glorious head lifted up to heaven, telling surely of the glorious gospel which be- i'': 132 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSLOXARY LANDS. gan ill weakness, but is marching on to its full meridian glory, when " the head that once was crowned with thorns" shall wear the glory of all lands and ages. And yet once more. Looking a second time at this cluster of stars, wcuioticed that by putting together the smaller stars, they formed a second cross that seemed to lie back of the other, and in a horizontal position. How it spoke to us of the cross Avhich Christ has laid down at our feet for us to take up and carry ! He had His cross, we have ours, too ; and the very badge of discipleship is to be willing to carry it gladly for His dear love. And so we turned away from the glorious sky, willing to be numbered among the star-gazers, too, if through these jewelled windows we may but see a little more of the beauty of our wondrous King, in His crimson Cross and His coming Glory. It was two o'clock. A blessed company were just retir- ing from their hallowed meeting in the Tabernacle, at C P. M. ; their day was ending, -and ours ? And we lay down and slept for six blessed hours within the arms of His love, and prayers of His people, and the very curtains of His holy hab- itation. And when the morning dawned our vision of the night before had become a little song, which we give to our readers on another page. We have some comic things, too, and the Lord lets us have an innocent laugh, many a time. While we were lying at anchor for half-an-hour in Suez to receive the mails- and some other things, a lot of Arabs came on board with :.ir-nfniin "' tXDS. ull meridian with thorns" it this cluster inialler stars, hack of the oke to us of .^et for us to ve ours, too ; iig to carry it ky, willing to hrough these of the l)eauty (I His crmiing ■re just retir- •nacle, at C P. lay down and His love, and His holy hah- vision of tlie e give to our [;he Lord lets ^hile we were ;eive the maili* on hoard with JSA/.I//./.1 JO nOMJl.lY. 133 their various wares. Among them was a conjuror, who seemed to he in the special employment of the devil. Ho had a little rahbit, some tin cups, eggs, etc., and at once seated himself on the deck in the centre cf a group of passengers near us, and began his tricks. He proceeded to bleat for TXM*!^, a time like a goat, and then uttering a sort of invocation to the devil, " Come on, debble, come on, debble," and then his arch-master having come to his aid, he began to do the most extraordinary things. The people laughed and won- dered, and, as long as their money continued to flow, he went on. We stayed long enough to see that he was in the devil's fl 134 /..■ia'(7/:a' o/t/.ooa's ox A/issfox.iA'V f.ixns. business, and then we tui lu'd awjiy as iar as we could, but could n()tosca[)o noticing the sequel. Suddenly the ship began to move, and the Arab started to get off, but he was too late. His dhow or hoat was off a buiidred yards, and all the tenders had moveS. ve could, but Arab started out was off a iway; then a sweat rolled the stern, ushed franti- ) to stop, but ebblo" could all at once to of the niagi- povver. Fort- 'ter a little in inute or two, himself over 1 below as he panting and 3 friends, and lead or alive, we ever saw, 9 between the he Hegira and f this canal is the deep, aiid omev.here on lighted up the ISM A I LI A TO HUM HAY. 135 darkness of the night, as this sunset glow now shines along the West. Soniewliere over yonder ar«! Marah and F.lini, Rephidini and Sinai. Perhaps no one yet knows. Unigsdi Bey suys, the site of the crossing is away down at Kantara on the other side of Isniailia. Hut this can hardly 1m?. It is too far from Goshen and Kameses, which have been identified near Tel-el-Kebir. The old tradition says -Sue/. Hut this seems too far on this side of Kameses. A good many have located it at Slialouf, a few miles abovc^ Suez, and they believe that the Red Sea then reached nnich larther north, and took in the present Bitter Lakes and Lake Timsah on which Is- mailia stands. This is, perhaps, most probable. We saw, a short distance to the East, the probable site of EUm, still known as the Wells of Moses, where we could see the palms growing around a few houses on the oasis. Away beyond stretch the desert sands where they wandered, and in the distance, rise the peaks of Horeb and Sinai. Many a weary journey has been made to trace their footsteps. We have little interest in the mere processes of anticpiarian re- search; we are content to accept the b' A, results, and get as quickly as possible to the practical lessons of their history. For us they trod these wastes and lived and died, and failed to enter in, that we might escape their failures and inherit their promises. " Let us, therefore, fear lest, a promise being left us of entering into His rest, any of us should seem to come short of it." The Red Sea looks like a narrow strip on . -ur maps, and one would almost expect to see from shoi-e to shore. But •, < '^^^^:^^^^^^^i^x\ 136 LARGER nr'T/.OOkS OX M/SSmX.I RY LANDS. wlien yoi! got upon it you tiiid a great sea moiv than a thou- sand miles long, and over two luindn'd bioad, down which it takes a swift steamer between three and four days to sail. Its waters have been like a summer pool. In the wak(> of oui- ship, flash the i)hosphorescent creatures that might be called t he glowworms of t]\o deep. An army of scores of im- mense sluu ks swam past us to-day. The Southern terminus is the strait of Bab-el- Mandeb, and the town of Aden, a Brit- ish possession, commands the entrance to the canal, and is an Arab town of less than •?(»,()<)(» peopl(>. Across rises the high coast of the Somali Country, where a few brave Swedish mis- sionaries ar(^ laboring. Arabia is yet an unevangelizedland, only one or two work lug chiefly in British territory. Some efforts are about to be made to enter it. In His Name we will claim it for Christ iu His own mighty way. How little is all that we can do against this great host ! But He is All-sufficient, and, in tliose days, as wo realize moi-e than ever the immensity and difficulty of the field, wo are falling back on Him, and giving ourselves more than ever to prayer, not only for a blessing on our own work, but, infinitely beyond it all, for His own infinite, direct and almighty working. A foolish dance is going on upon deck this evening, and, driven from our usual walk, we have just spent a very pleas- ant hour with the chief cook on the lower deck, and he has told us the story of his wonderful conversion, six years ago, on this ship, through one of the China Inland Missionaries. He is one of the stalwart sort of Christians, and stands alone than a thou- lowii which (lays to Hail. the wake of at might be scoroH of irn- Mii terminus \.{Vm, a Brit- al, and is an isos tlu) high >W(>(lish iriis- 3r two v\'i )i'k 3 about to be for Christ in n do against 1 those days, difficulty of ng ourselves ; on our own itinite, direct vening, and, a very pleas- and he has X years ago, Missionaries, stands alone ISM A I LI A TO BOM HAY. m on this ship against all the mixtures and compromises that so dishonor Dirist, and confound Christianit} with more worldliness. It i.s refreshing to find once in a while such hid- den ones in all sorts of unexpected (piarters. But wo have just passed the lights of Perimand the Strait of Bah-el Mundob, and must get ready to tranship for Uom- bay. ADEN. The approach to Aden is wild and grand. It stands upon a rocky peninsula, whose jagged cliffs must lise at least 2,000 feet above the sea. It is situated about eighty miles east of the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeh, and commands the entrance of the Red Sea. It is an English colony, strongly fortified, and of immense strategic importance, giving Eng- land the command of this mighty gateway to the East. The town lies back from the harbor a few miles, and has a popu- lation of about L'(t,000. w i'li»*^fe«isWi^ ; like a black isoon season, ^hest sailing ISM AIL 1. 1 TO nOMIiAY. 141 in the world, and the sailors and officers told us how in the last monsoon, the chief officer of the " Assam," one of the two steamers that sail between Aden and Bombay, was swept off the deck by a great wave, and never seen again. This, however, is the calm season and is unusually calm. All our stewards are Hindus, and the Post Office clerks also. Most of them speak English perfectly, and, but for their brown faces, you would take theni for Enghshmen. The crew are all Hindus, and it is a sight not to be forgotten to witness one of their meals. Last night we watched them at supper. A great tin pan of rice, about a yard in diameter, and holding at least five gallons of boiled rice, was brought by one of them to the forecastle deck, and then nine or ten of them squatted round it, k:;ving first all carefully washed their hands. Then they began to squeeze the rice to make it s-^ft and sticky, any or all of them sticking in their hands at \, •.. re, until they had worked it up to the proper consistency. Then a little basin or pot was brought, containing some curry sauce, and this was poured over the rice, and again their hands were plunged in and the rice and curry mixed up until it had become properly colored and flavored. The process of eating then began, and each one, with his hands, plunged into the great dish until the dish was empty. Then he would look round at some other httle company, and, if there was another dish not yet finished, he might join that party. They were all squatted around these dishes, and looked not unlike a little pen of animals getting their rations in a trough. But they are gentle, inoffensive, quiet people, good servants, and ~m~ T- ', :<'^;'^i^^^^^^^^^^mifm^^fmmmmm^mm^^$^^mmt^M4-^& s- 142 LARCRR OUTLOOk'S 0\' MISSIONARY J.ANDS. like simple, happy children. They are rather timid, and bear in thoir faces and manners the marks of a subject race. We reached Bombay about ten o'clock on Saturday even- ing, February 25. The harbor is large and fine, and is guarded by bold, high shores. We had just got our baggage on the steam launch of the P. cSc O. Company, and were arranging to go to a hotel, when our good brother Fuller arrived, with a cordial welcome, and took us to a delightful Christian household, where we remained during our stay in Bombay, and met some lovely Christian friends. We remained in Bombay until Tuesday morning, and then left by train to visit our dear missionaries in Berar. We shall speak of them and our missionary work later. Our first act on stepping upon the shores of India was to get alone on the landing, and, while our friends were having our baggage attended to and securing a carriage, we just looked up into the skies and heavens, beyond the glorious stars, and claimed this place, on which the sole of our feet at length rested, for Christ and His gospel. And we believe that He gave us more than our eyes shall <^ver see at this time, for the evangelization of this wondrous land and mighty people,— the most open and interesting mis- sion field in the world, and the great inheritance and trust, not only of the British nation, but also of all the English- speaking people of the world. One of our first impressions of India was the noises of the night. The air was literally wild with the cries of innumer- able birds, especially crows, which were flying about all the night, lighting upon our window sills and impudently put- ther timid, and ■ a subject race. I Saturday even- e, aud m guarded baggage on the were arranging er arrived, with ;htful Christian 5tay in Bombay, Ve remained in left by train to II speak of them of India was to ds were having rriage, we just ud the glorious le of our feet at II our eyes shall this wondrous nteresting mis- mce and trust, .11 the Enghsh- he noises of the 3s of innumer- ; about all the apudently put- 1? ISM A 1 1. 1 A TO nOMBAY. 143 ting their noses and their noises into everything. As the Hindu does not believe in killing anything lest he might haply kill his grandfather in some new form of transmigration, it is the paradise of birds, beasts and insects. Our next decided impression was made by the American BOMBAY. mosquito who was here in force. Fortunately, if they do not kill him they fence him off, and so we got under our bar as speedily as possible, and stayed there till daylight cleared the air. Everybody in India keeps doors and windows open, and the word draught is unknown in this land. We found the nights cool and pleasant, and the days hot, but not nearly so hot as we expected at this season. *J '^ffvf^ 144 LARChR OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. Perhaps our next impression was the dress or rather un- dress of the people. The men und women of the lower cla^-ses dress ahout alike. The limhs are scarcely covered, one gar- ment being fastened around the loins, and anothrr usually- over the shoulders. 'J'he turban is always to bo seen on th- elaborate. The men, and is very women gracefully a corner of the loose the shoulders. These carry i tig great l)ur- their heads. i t almost to tears to among rough meii borers on the public- the mortar for the carriers. As we saw bodies trembling hods and babkets of we asked what wa- aud they told us : "In cents a day — in the And for this these day in the hot sun, HINDU WOMAN. throw over the head robe, that falls ovei- won)eu can be seen dens constantly on touched our heart see them engaged as the lowest la- buildiugs, carrying masons like on r hod their frail, half- dad under these gieat brick and mortar, ges they received, Bombay about eight country much less." women toiled all and went home to feed themselves and their children on a little lice and curry, and often this was a luxury they could not afford. We thanked God for what the Gospel had done for our Christian womea, and we longed that our redeemed sisters might be awakened to do more for the toiling and de- ANDS. )r rather un- lower cla; >-(?s red, one g \r- >thf !• usufi'iy seen on th • rate. Th.> )ver the head lat fills ov.?i- L can be seen Dnstanily on i our heart urn engaged i lowest la- gs, cariying .like our hod ail, hah-; lad these gieat ind mortar, ey received, y ahout eight ,^ much less." toiled all mt home to le rice and not afford, lone for our emed sisters ing and de- z s m H CD O z > < ■"WM ISM. 1 1 I.I.I TO iio.un.iv. 145 graded wonu'ii of India. Many of tlu'se toiling woni»ni woif young girls of liftwn to twenty, and many of th.-m nioth.-is with children. Think of then), girls and mothers of America ! The first sunrise we saw in India was upon (Jod's h(dy day. We found many friends waiting to welcome us to the vineyard, and we were only too glad to respond. We liad the privilege of preaching throe times on that day : at 11 A. M., and and 8 P. M. The first two services were in the Ameri- can Methodist Episcopal Churcli, where we found a large and earnest English congregation, consisting largely of Europeans in India, and English-speaking natives. The later services were held at the Sailor's Rest, where we found a nice com- pany of Scotch and Enghsh sailors, and we heheve that sev- eral precious souls were saved. The Superintendent of the Mission is our dear hrothei-, Mr. Madden, lately of New York, who, with his dear wife used often to attend our Tabernacle services in >'ew York, and called upon us there less than three years ago, to consult about entering upon foreign n)issionary work. We were glad to hear from many quarters that this work is most suc- cessful, and he is very highly esteemed among our Christian workers here, and beloved by the sailors. The Pastor of the M. E. Church, where we also preached, is a successful Amer- ican Pastor who has recently come to India from a western city, so that we feel a good deal at home in such congenial surroundings. The spirit of many of the workers was most earnest, simple, catholic and aggressive. This is one of the self-supporting churches founded by Bishop Taylor many ?B«Krt«SJ*s^SSS^SS?R?MSS3K^-! m 146 LARGER OLTLOORS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. years ago, and is, indeed, n mcmument to Iub zeal and wis- dom. It is a blessod cHUtie ol ii 'ly Christinn life and wurk. On Tlonday mui viwMr v, - It -d tlie pleuHuro of breakfasting witli M •. Dyer, jti iprietor of the BomUwj (fuanlinn, and meeting other diar friends there. He has been most kind to all our outgoing missionaries, and has usually given them a pub- 1 ic wel- MAP OF SOUTHERN ASIA. come at his home. We did not f o r g e t t o call at the homeof our«lea" f rit nd now in New York, I^Iiss Helen Richardson, rind had the pleasure ol sc^eing two of her assistants and some of her work. One of them is Miss Carter, of Brooklyn. Miss Eid . rdson is laboring for the unfortunate girls of ludia, especi .11^ those who have been m- veigled into sin after coming from other lands, by bad men. Her work is a much-needcr. vne, and we :n-e sure h.r return wiU be the occasion for renewing it with fresh courage and power. LANDS. •» zeal and wis- I life and work, of breakfasting (fuanlian, and most kind to all en them a pub- 1 ic wel- c o m e a t his ISMA/L/A ro nOMIlAY. 147 3 ot seeing two One of them is ? laboring for the tio have been in- by bad men. Her 3 her return will irageand power. In the evening we were invited to take part in the first public meeting of the Woman's Christian Temperance Union, in Bombay, and it was a good and spirited meeting, and the work is beginning with a lot of live and loving women be- hind it. Most of Monday was spent, very busily, in Bombay, vis iting business offices. lo< ik- ing for our mail, finding about sa. ing «)f steamers, aul seeing a httle of this great an wond"^fui city a nd. We ^ 'iall not at this time, a, aii to describe it further than to say that Bombiiv is the commercial metropoHs of India, and the setond city in the British Empire. It is worthy of its high position, at least so far as appearance is concerned. It re- minrthy of the imuket gave th of natural the northern 8 of tropical cannot even Id. And her great inheri- snsely on our other hearts privilege and leglected niil- [3 last time, to iSMAiLiA TO r.o.\rnAy. But I have Iuok«f nejflected 'J'o make the uiehHa^e known ; But God haw huiij? thy Signal, To tlaHk It from the Throne. They say its stars are tinted Like Oalvary'H criuiHou hue ; The very heavens confesH Him Who died for me and you. The Southern Cross is hang^in^ Low in the Eastern sky ; I almost long to grasp it And lift it up on high. But there's a cross, () Master, That e'en our Imnds can bear, — We can lift up Thy gosiiel And tell it everywhere. 149 mm I50 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. Yon glorious constellation Ts slowly travelling on, And lo ! erect it standeth, Long ere the night is gone. Yes, and the Cross of Jesus Is rising evermore ; And soon its light and glory Will shine from shore to shore. Amid yon starry cluster Two Crosses I can see : One is the Cross of Jesus, And one— is left for me. One stands erect to Heaven ; 'Tis His, who suffered there, And one is prostrate lying For us to take and bear. I lift Thy Cross, O Jesus, O'er every heath* n land ; And mine I take and carry At Thy divine command. X. OUR WORK IN BERAR. ■ *^ WE spent a delightful week with our missionaries in Berar, and had a season of much mutual blessing. The Province of Berar lies directly north of the Nizam's Dominions and the large District of Hyderabad. It begins about three hundred miles east of Bombay and extends about one hundred and seventy miles from east to west and one hundred and fifty from north to south. It contains a popu- lation of nearly three millions of people. It lies in a vast plain, and is bounded on the north by a long range of hills called the Sappuro Hills. It is one of the richest agricultural districts of India, and is especially noted as a cotton producing district. There are large cotton mar- kets all along the railway, and many cotton gins and presses with some cotton factories. During the American war a great impetus was given to this trade. The soil and climate seem especially adapted to it. It has very dense population, averaging in some districts two hundred and fifty to the square mile. Its principal cities are Amraoti, Akola, Ellichpur, and Bassim, but there are a 151 I r#i^s«aM^»,i^>^jSs*ss*ss?*!ftsa.itfii3^^saBWS!;r; 1^2 LARGER OI'/LOOKS OX MISS/OXAR) I.AXDS. great many towns of from five to ten thousand inhabitants, aiTd, at least, four thousand smaller towns and villages. It is not a district much visited by strangers and travel- lers, for it has no romantic scenery nor striking histoiic asso- ciations. And it has been strangely neglected y\ the occupa- tion of India by missionaries. For fifteen or t.venty years a few pioneers have been i)reparing the way : Mr. Ward at Ellichi)ur ; Miss Sisson, Miss Drake and Miss Wlieeler at Bassim ; and later, under her new name, Mrs. Moore with her good husband, Brother Moore, and our own dear Mr. and Mrs. Fuller at Ellichpm-, Akote and Akola. Much faithful work Avas done, much suft'ering endured, and nauch prayer stored up in heaven by these lone laborers, and at last the harvest has begun to appear. A few years ago Miss Bates and Miss Dawlly, from our own work, joined them at Akola, and, about the same time, Mr. Eogers from America began to found the Industrial School for the training of native boys in mechanical and skilled work. Miss Ca&e and Miss Walker followed about a year and a half ago. Gradually these links drew the older workers into closer contact with the Alliance, and the result was the consunmia^ion of a union which has led to the send- ing out of the four parties that have so rapidly followed each other during the ])ast six months, making an aggregate of forty-thr6e Alliance missioiiaries now on the field. To visit these beloved workers was one of the chief ob- jects of our journey to India. As soon, therefoi-e, as we could get off from Bombay, we were on our way to Berar, by the 4XDS. inhal)itants, illages. \ and travel- tiistoiic asso- I the occupa- enty years a Ii-. Ward at Wheeler at ore with her ear Mr. and ^ucli faithful iiuch ])rayer [ at last the ily, from our i same time, le Industrial c'hanical and wed about a ew the older id the result to the send- oUowed each aggregate of d. ;he chief ob- ;, as we could Berar, by the OL'R irOK'K IX BERAR. 153 great railway which leads through the Central Provinces from Bombay to Calcutta. We met the first section of our mis- sionary party at the mountain village of Igatpuri, sometime before we got to Berar. Here, at the summit of the western Ghauts— the literal "Gates" to the great central plain of mmsm?^m:^^~^im^:^: THE QHAUT RAILWAY. India, —we found eight of our dear friends very pleasantly set- tled, and faithfully studying the hnguage ard getting ready for work. We need not say it was a joyful meeting, and we found them all exceedingly well and happy, and looking better than warn ^mi ,i?i. :n^ LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. ever. They had aheady made very fair progress with the language, and were carrying on a Uttle woi'k in the native village close by. One had given hei- first little message to the natives in Marathi the previous Sabbath, and they were all much encouraged. There are many Europeans and English-speaking natives at Igatpuri, which is a great railway centre, and we had the great pleasure of preaching in the evening to an excellent congregation in the Methodist Chapel, and pressing upon them the claims the heathen have upon the native Chiistians of India, When we got home we were glad to find a line young fellow who had been at the service, and was under deep con- viction of sin and wished to talk with us. He was a native and an employe of the railway. We had a blessed season of prayei', and thanked God for fruit from our first missionary meeting in India. He went away professing to give himself fully to the Lord, and promising to attend the meetings at the Mission Home. Igatpuri is only a temporary residence for our workers while studying. It is already occupied by other missionaries, but was an excellent place to receive, and, for a time, settle part of our large company, till they could be permanently lo- cated ; and it is a cool and delightful summer home, quite high, and, except in the rainy season, more pleasant than Berar. In the monsoons, ho\ ever, from June to September, the rainfall on all the mountains is enormous, reaching some- times several hundred inches in a single season. Taking both househo! '- along with us, to attend a Con- vns. 58 with the the native jsage to the ley were all :ing natives we had the ,n excellent ; upon them hiistians of tine young 1" deep con- as a native i season of missionary ive himself tings at the lur workers lissionaries, time, settle lanentiy lo- liome, quite ;asant than September, Aing some- end a Con- 's -Kfi ?'".Tassss3?«s S^?ISWia'ffia3^'^«TSS3SS?}WpS3^- GROUP OF MISSIONARIES AT IQATPURI. A "Kndak" photograph taken by Mr. Simpson. X .^' OUR WORK i.\\nr:R.iR. 155 vention of all our workers, which had heen called for Thurs- day and Friday, March 2 and :;, we found most of the others there n our arrival the next afternoon, and we liad a very joyful welcome, and felt very much as if we had got home again to the old Tahernacle meetings. We had feared that the large parties of new mission- aries, who had come out in succession since last September, would greatly strain the accommodations our friends were able to count upon, and we hastened our journey in order to assist in getting our friends settled. But we found to our surprise that everything was already arranged in the most quiet and satisfactory manner, and every one was happy and contented. The Lord has very wonderfully aided our dear friends in this whole matter, and given His own wisdom and grace to the Snperintendent and all the missionaries in a very special manner, so that we found them not only thankful for all the people that had come, but glad to welcome still more, as soon as the way was clear to send them. We were met it the Akola depot by all the missionaries and most of the boys x t ' .le Mission. We found the approach to the city very imposing, the Enj, .ish quarters being hand- somely laid out with broad avenues and lines of handsome shade trees. It is a city of about tweuty-fr-'e thousand in- habitants, and consists of two tow„js, one European and the other native. It ic the capit-d of one o "' the five districts of Berar, and the residence of a number of English offit^ials. There is an English church aiad chaplaincy, and there are a number of handsome bungalows on the main avenue, where I -smmmim 156 LARGER orr/.ooKs ox i\r/ss/oxARy lands. HINDU WOMEN. they live. The Mission bungalow is in the English quarter, and is a substantial building with a fine approach. There is also on the ground another excellent house, N/)S. :w:> sh quarter, ent house, r CO •0 I > z > o m > O IIR Mt^KK IX lll.RAK. 157 whit;h Miss I tuvs 11 .'rected fur thtMnpluinage work m (here. The two togethtM ;iccommodate about seventeen persons. ThiMi there are the girls' and the boys' Home on the same site, w'hr i, and another nttle missionary had joined the family circle. It was, indeed, wonderful 1 ^ Ood had carried her through the double strain, and we nev her so bright, victorious and happy. It is enough to say Uiat Brother Fuller was '^as aforetime ■,"' and so we expect ever to find him till the Master comes. Two of the dear ones were unwell, but improving. On the following morning we gathered together at eight o'clock for the first Convention of the Christian Alliance in India. It was a season forever to be remembered by us all. As some of us looked back ten years in America to the begin- ning of the work there, and others to the lonely days of wait- ing in India, and saw this company of more than fifty work- ers gathered, in one spirit, in this field, there were feelings too deep and full for utterance. There were a few others present with us, besides our own missionaries, but all were of one heart to win Berar for Jesus. Our Bethshan friends from London have taken the city of EUichpur for a centre, and several of them were present. 158 LARGER orrrooRs ox nr/ssroxARV /..txns. Mr. Moore, from Hassim, rpprosenting an independent work (•(•nnected with Dr. Cullis, was present with Pliihp, hisevau- gehst. The P'ree Metliodists luive also a mission at Yeotmal, in the south-west of the province, and their two missionaries were present. There is only one other mission in the prov- ince, and that is the Scotch Mission at Amraoti, hut they have no European missionaries there, and were not rt^pre- sented in the conference. We might truly say that all the foreign Avorkers in Berar were represented. Our dear sister, Miss Hattie Bruce, from the American Marathi Mission, was also present. It was a season of great spiritual blessing. It is enough to say that the mornings were spent in the study of the Scriptures and i)rayer, the afternoons in looking at the work and the field, and hearing reports from the workers, and the evenings in services of a moie general character, fitted to in- terest tlu' natives, many of whom attended. All the missionaries were heard from, and all had grown very much since we last saw them. The one sentence, "I am so glad I am in India, and I have not had a.i unhappy or lonely day since I lauded," came to be expected as the intro- duction to almost every testimony. Of course, very much in the way of work or results could not be expected in the short time they had been here, but it was wonderful how much they had accomplished. All had learned something of the language. Almost all had been at work, selling books in the bazaars, singing Marathi hymns, which most of them had already learned, and speaking in broken sentences or reading RM.. &m ANDS. eiulcnt work lip, *iis ovan- at Yeotmal, missionaries in the [)rov- )ti, but they e not repre- that all the f dear sister, Mission, was It is enough tudy of the at the work ers, and the , fitted toin- 11 had grown entence, "I unhappy or IS the intro- ery much in in the short 1 how much thing of the books in the )f them liad )8 or reading i g;?g!tS»" ' %isi fi! ^<.fifj!^? ^ *^a J^..^ . "^"^"^ %^'" «meSi£S£^'t ■' ■■ -Llr^ '.1* i .^ ^A ^ % ^ \\ y CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de k.iicroreproductions historiques I o I en > Z > r r > z o m o o z < in z o > > o • III in'' : , i i , . : V ' ' ,. i> ' ! I Hi; ■^ ■ it ■i '! •i ! tmm i OL'Ji! irOA'A' LV BERAR. 159 simple texts in the language. Some of them had most inter- esting reports to make of how God used their hroken efforts, and how some precious souls had already been won. Of course these results have to be proved, but one could not fail to see how mightily God had indeed, already been working and using the weak and foolish things to confound the wise and mighty. There are several remarkable testimonies of God's healing, especially among the native children, some of them very clear and striking. One of the greatest privileges we had was the opportu- nity of speaking to the educated natives. We received a very courteous invitation from a number of influential Hindus, in- cluding lawyers, physicians and public officials, all able to underst.*. ' English, requesting us to lecture to them in the Public Library. This we gladly consented to do on Saturday evening, March 4th. There was a violent storm at the time, which prevented some from coming, but the hall was full, and after we had answered a few questions about education in America, ar he Ik^uor traffic, on both of which we had to speak with oii me, we frankly talked to these gentle- men about Jesus. We took as our theme the cry of the Greeks : " Sir, we would see Jesus," and we endeavored, in the power of the Spirit, to tell these men of a crucified and a living Christ. As we looked into those noble faces, our heart was filled with love, and "we were willing to impart to them not only the gospel of Christ, but our own souls also." We believe many were touched and blessed, and one of the lead- ing gentlemen afterward sought a personal interview with us. I ': l6o LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. There are great difficulties in the way of these men ; but God is working on their hearts, and when they break down, there will be a great break. We can now understand how Mr. Pentecost and Mr. Varley have been able to preach to large audiences of them for weeks in Poona, Madras and other places. We could wish for no higher joy, for a time at least, than to be able to spend six months among them tell- ing them of the hving Christ. The lives of our missionaries among them during the past ten years, here in Akola, have made a profound impression upon them, and, at the close of our address the other night, the Chairman let out the secret by saying that a religion which could produce such lives could not be a had religion. On Sabbath afternoon we saw the great weekly bazaar in the public market. There must have been, at least, ten thousand people present from all the country round, selhng their various wares, in all the costumes you could miagine. This is the time our missionaries got out to work among them. It was an interesting sight to see Brother Fuller, Brother Phihps and a lot of our missionaries, standing in the centre of a great crowd, and preaching to them in Marathi with an animation not usual in English, and, as one and another would reply from the crowd, the missionary would turn the tables on the questioner until he was glad to retire. The faces of the people showed deep interest, and the audi- ence lasted as long as the speaker had strength to speak. Betwoen the addresses the stirring Marathi hymns would be sung to their beautiful melodies, and the people seemed always glad to hear them. ■ANDS. ese men ; but y break down, derstand how- to preach to Madras and , for a time at ig them tell- missionaries 1 Akola, have t the close of ut the secret ce such lives i^eekly bazaar , at least, ten :ounfl, selling •uld imagine, work among other Fuller, anding in the n in Marathi , as one and ionary would lad to retire, and the audi- th to speak, ins would be (ople seemed ROADSIDE SCENE, BERAR. A "Kodak " photograph taken by Mr. Simpson. OCR WOUK IN liERAR. I6l This delightful Convention closed with a conununion ser- vice on Sabbath afternoon, and an anointing service on Sab- bath night, in which the spirit of the old Tabernacle meetings seemed to fall upon all ; and at length we parted in the very fullness, joy and victory in the Holy Ghost. We need not add that the children were as happy as any other members of the party, and little Georgie Fuller is one of the best gospel singers and preachers in Marathi that go to the bazaars. On Monday we started with Mr. Fuller to visit the vari- ous towns of Berar, partly to see our missionaries in theix* homes, and partly to look over new fields, with a view to the placing of other missionaries. In most of these towns we have found a number of people who can speak English, and have had several pleasant and profitable services in English. Among others, we visited the capital of the province, Am- raoti, a fine city of thirty thousand inhabitants, and found it without a single English missionary. It is a very interesting place. There are many English officials at the camp, about two miles outside the town, and an English chaplaincy with a native pastor of a little branch of the Free Church of Scot- land ; but in the heathen city of Amraoti itself there is no English or American missionary. We got a tonga and irse to drive around the city, and we had a most interesting t me. It would have been a fine subiect for a sketch to see us two missionaries on that cart, trying t(» go forward and see the town, and in front of us the native driver, and a wicked little horse that would only go in one direction, and that was backward. Sometimes the m^mmmm 1 62 LARGER OUTLOOK'S OX AfLSS/OXARy LAXDS. driver would beat him, but it only mad«! him go a little faster the wrong way. Sometimes he would pet and pat him on the back, l)ut it only made him stop and refuse to go at all. Sometimes Mr. Fuller would assist by poking him vigorously with his umbrella, but it made no impression— except on the umbrella. Sometimes the driver would get in front and pull liim along by main strength, and sometimes he would get behind and push the cart and horse forward in spite of his resistance, until we were reminded of the man that ciarried his horse to town. Sometimes the pony would vary the performance by kicking backward with all his might, but fortunately the bottom of the cait was iron. Occasionally he would take a notion and go a little way, but he always stopped when he came t<» a temple, and insisted on going exactly contrary to the way the driver wanted him. The street boys laughed at us, and we laughed at oui-selves until we were tired. Finally, when he had backed us arouna for about two hours, we liappily came upon another driver, and gave ours up amid the i)rotestations of the driver that he would be all right now, and took the other. As we drove out to the camp with the second pony, which was an excellent one, our former driver followed us and passed us at a springing i)ace, to let us see that his horse was all right. And so indeed he was. It must have been his dislike for missionaries, or perhaps the low price at which his master was carrying ns. Two can ride nearly a whole day for two rupees or about sixty cents. We got more than the worth of our money in a real honest I' LAXD.S. go a little faster md pat him on use to go at all. him vigorously — except on the 1 front and pull s ho would get d in spite of his an that carried )erformance hy fortunately the e would take a opped when he ctly contrary to )oyp laughed at tired. Finally, two hours, we ) ours up amid lid he all right ) the camp with me, our former ing jjace, to let indeed he was. , or perhaps the I \i8. Two can ut sixty cents. a a real honest OUR WORK W BERAR. 163 laugh, and would have given a good deal for a photograph of the scene. Wo witnf'sned in one of the great temples of Amraoti no GROUP AT nAILftOAD STATION. A "Kodak '• photograph taken by Mr. Simpson. less than four child marriages. In one of these the bride was about eight and the groom twelve. Both were very handsome. The pecuUarity of the ceremony was the tymg mn^ ' im n mmvmmmK^mmam^mmmmm mm- ' Ami^m-iw mi^^ 164 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX .V/SS/OXAA')' L.tXPS. ot their robt's toKetlior in a knot, and then the Hinearin^ of a yellow and crimson powder over both of tlienj. Tlic rest of the ceremony was inside the sacred portion of the temple, which we wero not permitted to ' ter. Poor, little, pretty thing ! if she sbonld become a w idow how sad her fate wonld be, and there are millions of such widows in India. We trust ere long this fine old city will be the scene of a gladder sjjectacle, and that many a littl« one shall be wedded, within its walls, to that husband who will never cause her heart a sorrow. We trust that it will be opened as a mission station of the Alliance before the close of the year. We found some Christian people here. The presence of English-speaking people and C hristian natives in so many of the cities of India is a wonderful preparation for the Gospel, giving a nucleus for the work in each place, and not unlike the little companies of Jews the apostles found wherever they went. Then there are excellent roads, and, in most cases, fair houses can be obtained. Besides, there is a strong English government, affording the best protection to life and property. In most towns there is a public inn at the depot, maintained by the government, where the traveller can get comfortable shelter. The roads are superb, and the best of public conveyances can almost always be obtained, and a little money will go a great way. Railway travelling is very cheap. Money is worth more than twice as much as in America. A coin, the sixth part of a cent, will buy a good deal. And a rupee, thirty cents, is pmctically woith nearly a dollar. Roast beef i^riFrifrifiT iteififtnr •f-t^lWInfiili ^ liiii^giSliiii^ le 8mearing of lem. The rest of tho toiuple, r, littlo, pretty sad luM- fate WH ill India, the scene of a lall be wedded, 3ver cause lier id as a mission year. lie presence of in so many of 'or the Gospel, nd not imlike >und wherever and, in most ;s, there is a fc protection to iblic inn at the 3 the traveller ic conveyances oney will go a ip. Money is . A coin, the And a rupee, r. Roast beef Oth' IIOA'A' /X /.'AV./A'. 165 costs three cents a pound, and oranges much superior to ours half a cent apiece. The land is most wondrously prepared for the gospel. It is lying at our feet, for us to go in and occupy it, and it will be an everlasting shame if all its villages and hamlets are V^^ WTfi A NATIVE VILLAQE. not taken possession (»f foi- Christ by the end of the nine- teenth century. And yet what have we done ? Let this one province of Berar speak for others. Until six months ago, out of twelve great counties in the district which we have taken as our field, containing a population of about two million v^^pl©* ^J^^ ^^ I 66 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX M/SSIOXARY LANDS. least twenty-five thousand villages, only one city had been permanently occupied by any English missionary. For nearly two hundred miles you pass along the great railway line between Bombay and Calcutta, from Bhusawal almost to Nagpur, through scores of cities which are great cotton marts ; cities that are in the centre of dense populations ; cities that iiave English officials and residents, and every ac- companiment of modern civilization, and yet in all this great stretch of country, until six months ago, there was but one city, Akola, which had a single voice to tell of Jesus. God has laid this great land, out for us, and crossed and recrossed it with a thousand open ways. We have scarcely begun to occupy it yet. Our present force will be distributed along one hundred miles of this railway line by the end of I his year ; but it will still take thousands to occupy the rest of India even as )nuch as this, with a station every ^wenfcy- five or fifty miles. We do thank God for the glorious beginning we have seen. In eveiy way it far exceeds our expectations. But, in eveiy way, the need that still remains as far exceeds our highest conception hitherto. Let us send a thousand mis- sionaries to India in the next five years. 3ESISS355 LANDS. city had been issionary. For e gieat railway sawal almost to e great cotton ie populations ; i, and every ac- in all this great ■re was but one I Jesus. ind crossed and ) have scarcely 1 be distributed e by the end of )ccupy the rest every ^wenty- inning we have ctations. But, 'ar exceeds our thousand mis- XI. BERAR TO NELLORE AND MADRAS. TWO more days were spent in visiting our stations west of Akola. Wednesday we went to Khamgaon, a beautiful town of about ir>,0(M) inhabitants, lying a few miles south of the main i-ailway line, and reached by a little branch line. We have seen few mission fields in India as accessible by railway as the Berar country. It is easily reached from Bom- bay by missionaries on their arrival, and almost all our prin- cipal stations are on the great trunk line of railway which runs from Bombay to Calcutta, and has several trains daily. And even towns like Amraoti and Khamgaon that lie off the main line are reached by branches. After one has travelled over land in a cart fifty or a hundred miles, as many of our missionaries have to, to reach their field, they fully appreciate this advantage. Khamgaon is among the prettiest of the Berar towns. Its people are of the better class, its streets are cl«^au, its stores and bazaars have quite a city look, and everybody seems to have a certain amount cf leisme, and to be in easy circum- stances. wim * i68 LARGEk OUTLOOKS OX ISIISSIONARY LAXDS. We drove about the town in the afternoon in the bullock cart, and visited the Public School and High School, and had a very interesting talk with the principal and several of the teachers, one of whom is the pundit or teacher of some of oui missionaries in the study of the language. We found thoni very friendly, and willing to talk freely. They are Brahmins, representing the highest caste. But they did not hesitate to say to us : " The caste superstition is dying out," and when we called their attention to the remark, they did not try to explain it aAvay, but repeated the same remark a little later. In the evening we had a meeting in the Educational Hall, attended by a considerable number of the educated natives. There were over sixty present, with a few Euro- peans. \>'e spoke, with great freedom, of the power of the gospel, and pressed it home upon their consciences and hearts in the consciousness of the Holy Spirit's power and working. We saw much of the same feeling here that we have already refened to at Akola, a very frank and open spirit and a dis- position to listen to the gospel with interest and fairness. Many of them seem to be under deep conviction, but none have as yet broken through in full decision for God. It will cost them nuich to do this, for behind them lies not only the awful bond of caste and the certainty of being henceforth out- casts from all they love, but also a network of sin and wrong which it would w^reck every earthly prospect to confess, and take all they possess to rectify. \ LANDS. in the bullock ;hool, and had several of the er of some of B. We found ly. They are t they did not is dying out," lark, they did ime remark a e Educational the educated a few Euro- power of the ces and hearts and working. e have already lit and a dis- and fairness, ion, but none • God. It will 5 not only the enceforth out- sin and wrong J confess, and DERAR TO NRLLORE AXD MADRAS. 169 The nucleus of tlie future chui-ch at Khamgaon, at pres- ent, consists of two native Christians, — Lakshan and Sarah — a husband and wife, the family servants of the Missionary Home. It was very interesting to sit down at night and hear from them the story of their conversion, and commend them, and all that shall yet be gathered with them, to the blessing of GROUP OF HOUSEHOLD, KHAMOAON. A ' ' Kodak ' ' photograph taken by Mr. Simpson. the great Shepherd, who already knows them all by name before they are born. » The next morning we left early, in Miss Bates' bullock wsm 17 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MTSSIONARY L^NDS. cart, for Shegaon, eleven miles distant. On our way we passed the grave of Mr. Scott, a faithful missionary, who came out in connection with the work of Dr. Cullis, and laid down his life for Jesus here, eight years ago. We love to recognize the worth of those who have gone before, and to believe that much of the blessing, that is now coming upon this fair city, is in answer to the dying prayers of this servant of God and othei*s who have labored here before. We have a beautiful missionary home circle at Kham- gaon, and could oiu- friends at home look for a few moments at the sweet picture that met our eye in the bungalow, with dear Carrie Bates in the midst of the little household, they would not think it such a melancholy thing to be a. mission- ary. They all accompanied us to Shegaon, and theirs were among the last faces we saw as we left Berar. God bless the little flock at Khamgaon ! We found the friends at Shegaon waiting to receive us. We all had breakfast together and found the little bungaloAV fairly comfortable, but not quite so suitable as some of the others. It was the very best that could be obtained under the circumstances, and Mr. Fuller was only too glad to get it in the pressure of the large arrival of missionaries. But the house is too far from the native village, and not suitable for the permanent Missionary Home. It will be difficult to ob- tain a good house here, and if oui work is to be continued in this important centre we shall have to build them a little Home. After breakfast we went out and saw the town and \ ■ yj t J ■ 'j W W WB M l W g J rLVDS. our way we isionary, who lUis, and laid We love to )efoie, and to coming upon •f this servant :\e at Khara- few moments ngalow, with usehold, they be a missiou- 1 theii's were God bless the to receive us. ttle bungalow 1 some of the )tained under glad to get it •ies. But the t suitable for ifflcult to »jb- } continued in them a little ;he town and ■«?» \ BERAR TO XELLORE AXP MADRAS. 171 the site that had been suggested for a Home, and by faith we took possession of it. Shegaon is an important city on the G. I. P. Railway, the principal railway in India. It is about forty miles west of Akola, and an important cotton market. We visited an im- mense cotton press here that gives employment to a large number of people. It is a County Seat, and is the centre of about one hundred and fifty thousand people, who must re- ceive the gospel from this centre. Our friends will see that we have already our mission- aries stationed at four important centres in Berar, viz., Akola in the centre, Badnera in the east, and Khamgaon and She- gaon in the west. Besides these there are seveial other im- portant County Seats where we hope to have stations planted before the close of the year, and Mr. Fuller is already arrang- ing for buildings. If these points can be occupied during the present year, the province of Berar will be as fully occupied by missionary centres as any district of India, and the gospel may be preached to all its people before the end of the century. But, after this is done, there is still a long chain of cities on the same railway for one hundred miles west of Berar, unoccu- pied. These are all Marathi people, speaking the same lan- guage as the people of Berar. The total Marathi population of India is not less than 15,000,000, and it is doubtful if one- half of them are yet within reach of the gospel. There is a great Marathi population in Khandesh and the western part of the Nizam's Dominions, which can be easily '"nH . 172 LARGEH OCTLOOk'S OX MISSIONARY LANDS. reached from our present centres in Berar, and there is an equally large population in the northern and north-eastern ]»art of this Dominion, where there are yet no missionaries, speaking partly Marathi and partly Telugu, and these can be reached from our eastern Berar stations, so that we have yet room in connection with the Berar Mission to send out at least one hundred more missionaries before this field can be even fairly occupied in its great centre of population. With this force we can reach about eight millions of people who are still without the gospel. We finally left our friends in Berar on Thursday, March 9th, just twelve days after landing in India. It was a little like leaving home as we looked into their dear faces once more, and thought of the years till we should meet again. We were so glad they were all photographed on our heart and His. We almost envied our brother Fuller — with that blessed company. Accompanied by Mr. Fuller, who has kindly given us his precious time for a fortnight, to look over the larger field in the interests of our common work, we started again on our journey. Indian railways are not like American. There are no sleeping cars, and a continuous journey of two or three weeks is not a perfect luxuiy. You take your travelling rug and pillow with you and just lie down at night on your seat, if there is room, and the car is not too crowded. Every two or three days you can stop over somewhere long enough to get a good bath, and you feel that whatever water is in other countries it is a necessity of life in India. \ ««> SESm AMDS. 1 there is an loith-easfern missionaries, these can be we have yet send out at I field can be ition. Witli people who •sday, March t was a little ir faces once meet again, )n our heart r — with that jr, who has , to look over )n work, we rhere are no wo or three ravelling rug )n your seat. Every two g enough to er is in other BRRAR TO X EI. LORE AXD MADRAS. 175 The first i)oint we desired to reach was Nellore, the head- quarters of the Telugu mission of the American Baptist Mis- sionary Union. This is the wonderful work whi.h (Jod has so greatly honored in the past ten years by the ingathering of tens of thousands of souls from among the heathen. Our journey took us through Ahmednagar, the seat of TEMPLES AT NASIK. the American Marathi Mission, and a portion of the Nizam's Dominions. As we approached the east coast we found quite a different climate and country. While Berar was almost in midsummer and all the fields were withered and the crops harvested, the country near Madras was yet in much of the freshness of spring — the jewaree and rice were wiving in the rich, green fields, and the country was in many places very B^' 174 LARGER OUTLOOK'S; ON MLSSTOh'ARY LANDS. lovely. The eastern rains come later than the western, and the vegetation is two months later. Nellore, the seat of the Telugu jnission, is a district ahout as large as Berar, lying north of Madras, on the coast. The Telugu people are a Dravidian race numbering about as many as the Marathi—1 0,000,000 people. The student of Indian missions should understand the languages of India or he will never be able to iniderstand its mission work. In the north and west of India there are seven great Aryan languages ; viz., the Hindi spoken by one hundred million, the Bengali by about eighteen millions, the Punjaubi by twelve millions, the Marathi by fifteen millions, the Sindi by about three millions, the Oria by five millions, and the Gujerati by about six millions of people. In Southern India there are four principal languages be- longing to the Dravidian people, an inferior race, who were pushed south by their Aryan conquerors. These are : the Telugu, spoken by sixteen millions in eastern India, near Madras ; the Tamil, spoken by twelve millions, on the south- east coast, below Madras ; the Cannerese, spoken by seven millions, in Mysore chiefly ; and the Malayallin, spoken by about three millions of the people of south-western India. Our work is among the Marathi people, and the Baptist work among the Telugus. The mission was planted in Nellore, about fifty years ago, by Drs. Jewett, Day and other pioneers. But for a long while it seemed so fruitless that the Board was again and again on the eve of abandoning it, and many a prayer went up to the Throne, and many a tender .ANDS. western, and is a district on the coast, •ing about as iderstand the nderstand its dia there are poken by one I millions, the teen millions, five millions, e. languages he- .ce, who were hese are : the a India, near on the south- icen by seven n, spoken by tern India, d the Baptist s planted in Day and other fruitless that bandoning it, nany a tender MR. SIMPSON'S COOLIE CART, ON THE ROAD TO RAMPATAN. A "Kodak " photograph taken by Mr. Simpson. 'mnt^mfvmmmm JIER.IK TO KEI.LORF. AND MAHRAS. 175 N. appeal for tlie "Lone Star Mission," as it was called. At length the showers of blessing began to fall, and in the last twenty y«'ars more than thirty thonsand have been baptized and gathered into the various churches in and around Nell- ore, Ongole, etc. We need not say that it has been a great joy and blessing to us to visit this blessed work, even for a single Sabbath. We reached Xellore at noon on Saturday, March 1 I , and, after a kind welcome from the dear missionaries there, and a visit to the various homes and schools, we determined to go out, if possible, to Ongole for the Sabbath ; and if not, at least to Rampatam the seat of their Theological Seminary. Our journey was quite a romantic one, and a very labo- rious one. Ongole was seventy-three miles distant, and there was no railway or even mail-coach. Horses could not be obtained anywhere, and bullocks would take days for the journey. So we accepted the advice of the missionaries, and took not a mail coach, but literally a mule coach ; that is to say, we engaged a dozen Hindus, called Coolies, aiid two ox- carts, and our Coolie boys just harnessed themselves to the carts and started off at a springing pace. After running ten miles they would stop on the road and shout awhile at a country village until a dozen new Coolies gathered, and these were engaged as. a fresh team for the next stage, and the others walked back. We gave each of them about a cent a mile, and they considered it good pay. The carts were pretty rough, and had no springs nor seats ; we just lay down on the bottom on the straw covered with a mat and a rug, and were pretty well shaken up by morning. 1 I BPi^ l Myj.r''Wipi|R44J:-#}:v;J:-%|l#li^^ ^^?w^^.. T76 J.ARai'.R OUTr.OOk'S ON .VISSIOXAKV LANDS. And so we started off, Mi- Fuller ui one cart and we in the other, and our ("ot)lit' bos: inad hmtrs, and bo, ;oo late for tlie nearly lose our at Ram pa tarn, ies up the lane e the beautiful ;gs and his kind e »ad been old vn&\ almost as Ongole. ■uing, and lieurd he close of the e would preach he said a few [lence upon the •ed to receive a 'hearts, for just e of their most nr.KAR TO NELLOKE AND MADttAS. 177 JiiWM*- i^M i ta t maMi 111 * 11 I B ji ,j l u iii COOLIE CART AND PARTY UNDER f ANVAN TREE, NELLORE. A " Kodak " photograph taken >y Mr. Simpson. earnest teachers and also physician nd one of their leading men, came over to the bungalow, and, with a face streaming with tears, and a look we shall neve forget, asked us all to pray for him that he might receive i e baptism of the Holy- Ghost. Never shall we forget that fa e and the cry that fol- J'lr' ff" 178 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MLSS/ONARV LANDS. lowed, as, with liis face on the floor, he begged God to give liim His greatest gift. We spoke a few words and pointed him to the precious promises in the beginning of Isaiah xliv., and he went away comforted. '"* We found that a most remarkable movement had just broken out in this Mission, from which greater results are lioped than even the revival of the past ten years. It seems that the more earnest missionaries have been feeling very anx- ious for some time lest the work among great masses of their people should prove shallow and wholesale. There has been much j:>rayer for a deeper Christian life among the people, and especially the preachers. God has begun to answer the prayer in a very strange way. A few months ago one of their most prominent native preachers,— indeed, the man most honored and trusted for piety and abiUty,— publicly confessed to many things in liis life since becoming a Christian, that deeply touched the whole Mission, and then with deep humil- ity he asked God's mercy, and gave himself n.p for a deeper consecration, and the baptism of the Holy Spirit. Since then he has been used of God to lead many of their people into a similar experience, and the mission is going through a blessed breaking uj) that would alarm many if they did not under- stand God's way of convincing His own people of sin that He may wholly sanctify them. For ourselves we cannot but regard this as a most hope- ful divine movement, intended to teach both missionaries and people the absolute need of a deeper work of grace, if the converts are to retain even their first blessing. The coming iMHtaMa|PHi«-l "^y LANDS. ;ged God to give /ords and jwinted igof Isaiaii xliv,, vement had just eater results are years. It seems feeling very anx- it masses of their There has been long the people, m to answer the s ago one of their [, the man most )ublicly confessed a Christian, that with deep humil- iip for a deeper pirit. Since then eir people into a ;hrough a blessed y did not under- )le of sin that He i as a most hope- missionaries and : of grace, if the ig. The coming ' l ! gl f5a LJi gM BERAR TO NELLORE AND MADRAS. 179 of this dear physician to us was just in this line. In the evening service we tried to speak to these dear people through the voice of Dr. Boggs. and although we felt the awkward- ness of not being able to touch them directly in their own tongue, yet we believe there was much blessing, and at the close every hand was raised to ask and receive this blessing, and Di-. Boggs announced a continuance of the services on Monday evening. We left them claiming a gi-eat outpouring of the Holy Ghost upon these people. We had a blessed English sei-vice afterwards with the missionaries, and all our hearts together received a great uplift. Many precious hours were spent during tb;* «iay in blessed converse with these dear servants of Christ, whose spirit was more tender, humble and full of holy unction than we have often met, and we learned much respecting the work of God among the Telugus, and the yet unoccupied regions where they are scattered. We left at 10 P. M. for the return journey, and reached Nellore in twelve hours, and found our dear missionary friends waiting breakfast for us. After breakfast, most of the members of the Nellore Church were gathered in the church to hold a service for us here. We both spoke to these dear people through an interpreter, and then theii- native pastor asked them if they had any message to send back to America. Never shall we forget the dignity and the tender- ness with which Julia, one of the oldest converts of the mis- sion, arose and said : "I want to thank the dear friends that have spoken to mammmam 4 l8o LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. US to-day, and to ask them to thank the dear friends in Amer- ica that have sent us the gospel which has saved us from oin* heathen idolatry, and brought us cleansing through the pre- cious blood of Jesus, of which we have heard to-day. I was one of the first converts of the Mission and know of the labors of Mi\ Jewett, Mr. Day and others, who stood firmly BAZWADA, IN THE TELUQU COUNTRY. by us and urged the Board to stand by us in the discouraging^ days when they were tempted sorely to give it up. Remem- ber us to all the friends in America, and ask them to do all in their power to send the gospel to our perishing people." This is a little of what Julia said, and said in as good grammar as we have used and almost in these very words. But no words could express the fervor and earnestness with. am mSSm 4Nns. ids in Amer- us from our jgh the pre- ■day. I was enow of the stood firmly ■ i«0 discouraging^ ip, Eemem- m to do all in )eople." id in as good 3 very words. lestness with BERAR TO NELLORE AND MADRAS. x8i wmmf^mmammr, which she stood there and spoke for the 30,000 Telugus that have given their hearts to Christ in the past twenty years. We can give our readers no better idea of it than by reminding them of one of good Mrs. Bruce's testimonies in the Taber- nacle at some of the Friday meetings. She was followed by he»- husband, also an old convert of the Mission, and his re- marks were most dignified, sensible and earnest. Could our friends in Am- erica have seen these dear peo- ple, they would have felt re- paid for even years of wait- ing and work- ing for mis- sions. The native pastor also spoke very well and told us that he was now entirely sus- tained by his own church. His native membership exceeds seven hundred. One can scarcely realize the joy with which we grasped the hands of these dark-skinned Telugus, and saw in them the types of the precious ones we yet expect to greet from our own work in Berar and elsewhere, "if we faint not." Among our pleasant surprises at Nellore was our meet- ing with Seetama, a dear Hindu woman whom we had met CATAMARANS, MAORAS. W*^ l8a LARGER OUTLOOKS ON .mSSTOXARY LANDS. in New York in the Tabernacle a few months ago, and who, while studying in America, had often come to our church. It seemed like home to see the "Alliance" on her table, and we were delighted to learn that she is the wife of Veras- wamy, the native preacher whom God is using so graciously in deepening the spiritual life of the Telugus. We left Nellore in the afternoon and reached Madras early the next morning. We found ourselves in a grand Oriental City, nine miles long, and containing a popxilation nearly as great as Bombay. It has a much more Oriental look than Bombay. It is widely spread out over a vast area. We had occasion to make some purchases and went to two or three of the largest stores. As we drove in at the splendid gateway we found ourselves in a magnificent com- pound like the grounds of a villa ; and back from the streets, like an elegant mansion, stood the store, a vast establishment like Arnold's or Macy's inside, but outside just hke some aristocratic residence and grounds. The Elphinstone Hotel, where we stayed, was like an old paliace with an appearance of faded grandeur. The residences of the wealthy Europeans are usually very pretty bungalows, with large verandahs surrounded by rich and luxuriant grounds full of magnificent tropical trees and plants. The colors of the houses are gen- erally quite rich— pink, blue and white, with much decora- tion. The Hindu quarters have all the squalor of other India cities. The streets are picturesque with all colors of dress and all kinds of people. B« 'm^Mxim^tif^si igo, and who, ) our church, on her table, wife of Veras- 8o graciously ached Madras js in a grand a population more Oriental t over a vast s and went to ove in at the ;nificent coni- m the streets, establishment ust like some nstone Hotel, m appearance thy Europeans 'ge verandahs )f magnificent 3uses are gen- much decora- of other India olors of dress BERAR TO .\ELLORi: AND MADRAS. 183 The women of eastern India are much less dressed than in the west ; but they make up for it by brilliant colors, usually wearing a bright red scarf, loosely thrown over one shoulder and gathered closely round the loins and reaching to the knees. The women of the western and central provinces carry their robe over the entire body and throw it, also, very MAORA& gracefully over the head. The eastern people are nuich darker than the western, but they have the same European features, and the children are all beautiful. Here in Madras we saw, for the first time, the Coolies drawing the ox-carts in the streets, and acting instead of oxen or draught horset; in canying most of the freight and merchandise through the city. It seems so strange to see sit: |S4 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS, men, barefooted and almost naked, drawing a great cart filled with bales of goods, perhaps a ton in weight, along the street. Prices are extremely low. For a few shillings we got a carriage for a whole day and 8a^■■ a great deal of the city. There are fine gardens and an excellent museum, containing specimens of the animal and vegetable life of the whole coun- try, and especially of Southern India, and also many inter- esting works of art from the ancient temples. There was a tremendous tiger, and one could well believe that the strong- est lion is a plaything before his superior strength. These lordly and dangerous brutes are still sometimes met with, even by our missionaries, in the hills, and we have heard already some personal testimonies from missionaries here, of their providential escapes. There were endless varieties of monkeys and other animals, and plants and trees in great variety. One of the most touching sights of the day was a drive to the place of burning, where the Hindus cremate the bod- ies of their dead. It is a great cemetery, where we saw pile after pile on which the mounds of earth and ashes of calcined bones were still smoking. As we came out we met a funeral procession just entering. The father was carrying his dead baby in his arms. A lad was going before, whistling through a shell the most weird and mournful dirge. There was a little company of boys and men following behind. There were no women. They were at home. That father would lay that little body on one of these 1 ANDS, reat cart filled ht, along the ings we got a 1 of the city, m, containing 9 whole coun- ) many inter- There was a at the strong- jngth. These les met with, e have heard laries here, of is varieties of trees in great f was a drive nate the bod- 3 we saw pile les of calcined met a funeral ■yiug his dead tling through There was a jhind. There one of these T BERAR TO NELLORE AND MADRAS. I8S mounds, on a pile of wood, then they would heap up over the body a pile of sticks and dried manure (their fuel here), and then they would set it on fire and sit and watch till a loud re- port proclaimed that the skull )iud burst and the work of dis- solution was begun. Then they would go home to their TOWER OF SILENCE, MALABAR POINT, BOMBAY. cheerless hut without a ray of our glorious hope. We turned away so sad and yet so glad ; so sad for them, so glad for Jesus and our hope in Him. The Parsees have a yet sadder funeral rite. At Bombay they take you to their "Towers of Silence," where they ex- lJillJ)liaUUI ' 4.W.!»i l '--'MfatWJlj^JHt.« '< — ail i86 LARGER OVTLOOKS (hV .AflSSlOXARY LANDS. pose the bodies of their dead to be dev.nu-ed by the vultures and other birds of prey. They worshi]) the elements — air and fire - and they believe that the decomposing bodies of the dead defile them. And so they carry them to a lone tower, where the priests receive them and carry them aloft while the friends return to their homes. Tlie vultures are always waiting; to do their dreadful work. Think of these sad sights, beloved Christians of America, and while you thank God for the light and love that Christianity has gathered around the toml) — pray— 'pray — pray for poor India, We saw a few of the missionaries and learned something of the Christian work of the city. We dined at the American Baptist Mission, meeting three of their dear workers who are engaged respectively in the English, Telugu and Tamil work in Madras. We took afternoon tea with the good missionary of the Methodist Church and his good wife. We found them in the midst of a precious revival. We were glad to learn that our dear brother, Kev. Henry Varley, of England, had just closed his special services in the Tent formerly used by Dr. Pentecost, amid great blessing, the audiences having in- creased up to the end. We found, as we expected, two das^ os of missionaries and two kinds of work. The one is spiritual and evangelistic and the other educational, secular, conservative, and not un- like the worldly element in the church at home. We have been glad to find much more of the former cla!;s than we ex- pected, and to find it most catholic, humble, earnest, hungry for a deeper spiritual life ; and aggressive and evangelistic in its work. We have come less in contact, as might be ex- \. iMaai ANDS. " the vultures ents — air iin«l esof the(l«'H(l tower, where lie the friends 5^8 waiting to ghts, beloved for the light 1 the toml) — ed something :he American kers who are I Tamil work •d missionary ^ found them glad to learn ^^ngland, had iierly used by es having in- missionaries 1 evangelistic , and not un- e. We have I than "we ex- •nest, hungry vangelistic in might be ex- BEPAK TO XF.I.r.OR/-: .l.\'/> M.WRAS. 187 pected, with tlw other element, but have heard mueb alxnit it and its injurious influences upon the missionary work «>f India. It is represented in Madras by the ( 'hristiau College. This is a splendid Univei-sity, presided over by a minister and f(»r- mer missionary of the Seotch Presbyterian Church. It has nineteen hundred students, not only from European families but the leading Hindu families. It easily leads all the educa- tional institutions of the East in its high literal y standing. It is tlu^ development of the educational work which the Scottish church has always made so prominent, and in which such gi-eat and good men as Drs. Duff and Wilson labored so suc- cessfully. But what is it doing for Missions ? It is purely secular, teaching the liible. it is true, but only as a literary work, and carefully guarding against anything that could give offense to its Hindu c;onstituency. It has even been said that the con- version and i)ublit; confession of one of the students would be regardi'd as an embarrassr .ent, ^<\. might break up the con- stituency that supports it. Its aim seems to be to bring the Hindus into European culture, and then hope that by a sec- ond stage— .sometime later— they may come into Christianity. One of the missionaries characterized it as ''non-sectarian and non-relujiovs:' This is not a high compliment for a Christian College. Thank God, this is not the work for which Christ has sent our missionaries to India. And thank Him still more that this is not the purpose and work of very many of ihe best missionaries of India, li:| \ XII. MADRAS TO BOMBAY. THE Hist iinpulso that comes to you when you look at a hoautiful or interesting object is to shaio your pleas- ure with some one else. How often have we wished, since we have been in India, t^iat we could take all our friends along with us I A thoroughly satisfactoi-j visit to India and its mission- aries would require at least a year. A rapid journey of five weeks through a country as large as the United States^ east of the Mississippi River, can only include its larger cent'-es, and enable oven the most attentive observer to form first im- pressions. But, I'ke true instincts, these have a certain value that later study and observation will only confirm, especially if we have learned to look at things in some measure with the Lord's eyes and with reference to His work and His gloiy. Leaving Madras at sunset we awoke next morning in the beautiful cantonment of Bangalore. This is considered tlie most beautiful city of Southern India. It has many English residences, and is full of handsome bungalows occupied by wealthy army officers and other for- eigners. These bungalows are built in thoroughly Hindu style, ^Mmwmii mm you look at a le your pleas- ve we wished, all our friends d its inission- ^urney of five id States, east irger cent"es, form first im- i certain value rin, especially measure with vork and His lorning in the '■ of Southern I of handsome nd other for- r Hindu style, m u IE O _l 4 lil 3 z 2 MADRAS TO fiOA/BA >'. i8g with low, tiled roofs, wide verandahH, colossal ])illais, rich colors on walls and roofs, ii.ngnillccnt a|){)roaclu'S through Bplendid {^rounds lillod with palms, hanyans, mango troos and all tho affluence of trojjical flowers and i)lants. The po[)ula- tion of the city is nearly 200,000, hut it covers n great space. The streets are wide and tho private grounds around tho va- rious hungalows are spacious. The Government offices and the Rajah's Palace are very handsome huildings. Bangalore is tho chief city of Mysore, a large independ- ent state of India. There are several of these great native states. Their rulers were loyal to the English during times of trouhle in tho past, and they have been allowed to retain the sovereignity of their states under the oversight of an English resident, who exercises somewhat tlie same relation to the native Government that the British Resident does to the Egyptian Khedive. Among the largest of these native Principalities are Hyderabad, the Nizam's Dominions, Mysore, Baroda, Guzerat and Rajpootana. Mysore is a very fine country. Its popu- lation cannot be less than eight or ten millions. Its chmato is very fine. It is never very hot xt Bangalore, and, of course, it is never very cold. We had very fine raspbomes for breakfast at the Baptist Mission at Bangalore, and we be lieve they have them all the year round. The altitude is very high, the whole plain being several thousand feet above the sea. "We got into touch with the Christian work of the city. We visited the Methodist and Baptist Mission and saw the \ MHi g^. immmmmmx-mKmmr, 190 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. Baldwin Boys' School which had over one hundred hoys in attendance ; also the Girls' Home, presided over by Mrs. Baker. We met several missionaries at the American Bap- tist Mission, including Mr. and Mrs. Armstrong, of Maul- main, whom we had met on the way. Dr. McLaurin has charge of the Baptist work, and especially of the Literary and Publishing Department. We need not say that we met the same large-hearted Christian hospitality here which we had already experienced at Nellore and Rampatam. At the home of the English Baptist missionary we had the pleasure of meeting again our dear brother. Rev. Henry Varley, of England, who had just closed his special services in Madras, and was beginning similar meetings in Bangalore. He had been much encouraged with the results of the Mad- ras work. The tent formerly used by Dr. Pentecost had been crowded every night, and much deep and spiritual interest had been manifested. Many of the students had come to talk with him, and some of the wealthy Hindus had contrib- uted toward the expenses of the meetings in such a way as to show their deep interest. He hopes to return next year and continue his work. His meetings are attended by many Europeans and Eurasians, and also by many Hindus. There is among the educated natives a very great willing- ness to attend Enghsh meetings, and it would not be difficult at any time in many of the larger cities to get several hun- dred of them to come together for many nights, to listen to an interesting speaker on the truths of Christianity. Nor can there be any doubt that they are often much moved, and many of them very seriously considering the claims of Christ I ' MJliji i u^i-iia-aJMii. ,-li..l!.l^iS '.AMDS. adred boys in over by Mrs. Lmerican Bap- ong, of Maul- McLaurin has e Literary and t we met the which we had onary we had r, Rev. Henry pecial services in Bangalore. 5 of the Mad- jcost had been 'itual interest had come to 3 had contrib- ;uch a way as u'n next year aded by many indus. great willing- lot be difficult several hun- s, to listen to jtianity. Nor ;h moved, and lims of Christ vm&imiis:S !m& MADRAS TO liOMBAY. 191 upon their own hearts. In a few cases they have yielded to the strong considerations which God has been pressing upon them, and come out unreservedly on the side of Christ, bear- ing to the end the heavy cross which it involves for them. A NATIVE FUNERAL. But, notwithstanding all this, the fact remains, as an old missionary said to us this week : " The solid wall of Hindu- ism has not yet been even shaken." Most of the converts have been from the outcast races, the Pariahs of India. The great castes have not been broken KaeE^BaHBSi»3^^^@aM!ia«iia£^;5|f?^ 192 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. through, or to any great extent brought under the influence of tho Gospel. But Mr. Varley's meetings have reached many of these people with a kind of truth they have not very often heard. They are quite familiar with Christianity as a religious system, and have heard much of its principles and philoso- phy. But we are glad to say that Mr. Varley is meeting them in quite a different fashion from the average lecturer and literary writer. With the boldness of a true minister of Jesus Christ, he is telling these proud men to their faces of the supreme claims of the Son of God, and ridicuHng the idea of, for a moment, comparing them with the unholy pretensions of their so-called Incarnations of the Deity. He is bearing down upon their conscience with the great ques- tions of sin and accountability, and presenting the living truths and facts of evangelical Christianity in the power of the Spirit, and many of them are, no doubt, deeply im- pressed. We believe God will send many more sach messengers to the people of this land, and that there will yet be a breaking down of great numbers which will fill the hearts of God's pray- ing and believing children with great joy. What the people of India need most is spiritual power. There has been much intellectual work, and they can match our culture with cul- ture, too. But they cannot resist the power of conscience and the Holy Ghost, the living facts of a holy life, and a tes- timony which carries with it the conviction of divine reality and power. From Bangalore we passed through the Mysore country \ wmm LANDS. the influence have reached have not very as a rehgioua and philoso- ey is meeting ;rage lecturer le minister of their faces of ridiculing the 1 the unholy le Deity. He le great ques- ig the living the power of t, deeply im- nessengers to be a breaking Df God's pray- at the people as been much ure with cul- of conscience fe, and a tes- divine reality '^sore country l ll i lK W WiiiiWiBgaWliillia i MMI^^ a^ I mmmea Sr!?=*.«jr^' SCENE ON ROAD TO MAHABELASHUR. A " Kodak " photograph takeu by Mr. Simpson. ^mm iiiffiifja'; MADRAS TO ItOMIiAY. ^93 and then up through the South Marathi country to Watiar, a station in the Krishna Valley, ahout one hundred miles south of Poona. Here we left the train and took a pony tonga for forty miles up into the Western Ghauts, tor the purpose of visiting some dear friends at the lovely mountain retreat at Mahabelashur, which the American ^')ard has selected as a summer home for all their missionaries during the hot season. This delightful spot is situated at the sum- mit of the Western Ghauts, about 5,U00 feet above the sea. In the hot season of India, which lasts three months— from the middle of March to the middle of June, — it is a very de- lightful residence, the temperature seldom rising above SO degrees, and the air being most bracing and invigorating. We cannot agree, for our work at least, with the policy of planning for a regular suspension of w^ork every hot sea- son, and surrendering to the heat on merely natural princi- ples. We believe the power and life of Christ can carry our dear workers, who trust Him, through hot weather as well as other trying circumstances, and we feel, while not criticis- ing the action of other missionaries or societies, that, for our workers, feeling and believing as they do, it would be losing a great blessing to make up their minds to the necessity of a vacation every hot season. At the same time we should have some cool and quiet place where, in special cases, those who really need it and are not able to i*ise above the pressure, can go for a short time. We' found the drive to Mahabelashur very delightful. We started at 4 A. M. from the railway station, and, as the li'l 194 lARCER OUTLOOKS OX MISSTONARY LANDS. suu rose, we crossed the beautiful river Krishna, and looked down a long line of temple spires lining its banks, and telling of the idolatry of heathenism. We found, on calling at the home of the missionary who occupies this field, that it was, indeed, the very stronghold of Brahmanism ; but the light of the Gospel is beginning to penetrate some of the homes. As we ascended the Ghauts, the vegetation grew more and more luxuriant. Tlie wild ioses grew in great festoons along the roadside and climbed up over the trees, hanging in clusters of a dozen together like great bouquets of pink and crimson. The highest point is quite thickly wooded with very beauti- ful trees, and the views are superb. Our friends took us out to Sidney Point, and we found ourselves on a narrow promontory of naked rock running out like a sharp tongue several hundred feet, and not more than tv/elve wide at the point. On each side was a deep gorge at least 2,000 feet deep, and on one side it was a perpendicular cliff; on the other it was almost perpendicular. It made one's head dizzy to look down those almost fathomless gorges. We could easily understand how the story might be true that a young and foolhardy Englishman once presumed to drive his dog cart out on that narrow ridge one day, and the horse, be- coming nervous, dashed over the precipice with his reckless driver into the abyss below. On a clear day you can see the Indian Ocean across the plain which is about fifty miles wide. We found our dear friends, the Bruces, in a very pleas- ant home, and spent some very delightful hours with them. Mr. Bruce, besides having charge of the great district of Sat- wmmmimmif!!'B9sa!SSis'9Bimrm A')- LANDS. fishna, and looked banks, and telling on calling at the 1 field, that it was, I ; but the light of >f the homes. As iw more and more estoons along the -nging in clusters pink and crimson, with very beauti- nt, and we found rock running out id not more than LS a deep gorge at 5 a perpendicular ir. It made one's ithomless gorges, light be true that 3umed to drive his ind the horse, be- with his reckless T you can see the t fifty miles wide. , in a very pleas- liours with them, it district of Sat- 8CENE ON ROAD TO THE GHAUTS. A " Kodak " photograph taken by Mr. Simpson. '- fBKES^fflC i^SKf^: - M.IDRAS TO JlO.VliAy. 195 tara, with a million souls in it, has also a special work of pub- lication on hand. He has issued many excellent tracts and books, and has been especially happy in his series of Gospel leaflets in Marathi. We hope to give our friends, later, a sam- ple of one of these. It is the verse John iii : 16, in Marathi, and our missionaries are indebted to him for many thousands of these, which they distribute freely, as well as many other tracts and illustrated leaflets which he gratuitously distrib- utes. Miss Bruce is assisting her father in this and other liter- ary work, and is now about to undertake a fiu-ther task in connection with a monthly Sunday School paper in Marathi, connected with the work in India. We were delighted to find her hands and heart so full of bright and blessed work for God. In addition to her ordinary work, she has just com- pleted, with the assistance of a friend, a translation of the "Gospel of Healing " into Marathi. We found a number of other missionaries also at this place of rest, and in the evening we had a i^leasant and profit- able missionary meeting. There were ten members of the Presbyterian Marathi Mission from the Kolapur field, includ- ing some old friends. Miss Jefferson, late of the City Mission at home, and Mr. W^ilder, who is so well known in America among the Student Volunteers. He has been working among the students of India and is now in infirm health and resting at Mahabelashur. We had a blessed meeting and many re- ceived new inspiration for life and work. There was much conference respecting the needs of the ^x4JMftM|M| t »at»CV.'ylTS-^'OJ»Cl.-;Uifc:£lta..^i^«--^ '''^^^'fnimJI ?if?? 'f^ ^5^"^/ ^irt"? %HT} ^Jirflif 3Jr4l ^I'nfti w^ ^tRJifru: s^iRT ^i4»WM 3rnn^ jijw ^ »Tw'?if vjfri^n''^ of Marathi people in Western India, at least one- half are yet beyond the reach of any means of hearing the Gospel, and we fear this is true of almost all other parts of India. We left this lovely mountain top on Saturday morning at daylight, and after a tonga ride of seven houis and a rail- way journey of seven more, we reached the beautiful city of Poona on Saturday evening. We were met at the depot by Mr. Robinson of the Methodist Episcopal Mission, and Mrs. Fuller who had come on from Akola for one more season of fellowship and conference before we left South India. Mr. Robinson welcomed us most kindly, and we had the pleasure of addressing his English congregation morning and evening, and the Native Church in the afternoon through an interpreter. The Native Church is under the charge of Mr. Fox, a veteran missionary, and the Boys' School under the charge of Rev. Mr. Brewer. Mr. Robinson has also charge of the Wm. Taylor School for the education of English children, and is, besides, Presiding Elder of the District. He has a fine English congregation, and the Native Church is very inter- esting. It was a gi-eat joy to preach the Gospel to these Hindus and to see some souls decide for Christ. 1:1 I9& LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. There are two or three other missiotiH in Poona, th«f Eng- lish Church, the Free Church, and the EtitahUshed Church of (Scotland ; hut the great heatlien city w still but lightly touched. It is a city of 12<>,0()<' people, and has many EnghMli residents, besides many natives who understand Englisii. Both Mr. Pentecost and Mr. Varley held meetings here for Bome time which were well attended and nmch interest shown. Our time did not permit us to meet the native jhjo- ple, but we were assured that it would not be difticidt at any time to obtain a good audience, willing to listen to an earnest address on the Gosi)el. Poona was the home of one of our former missionaries. Miss Helen Dawlfy. Many of our friends will remember that Miss DawUy came out to India in connection with the Alliance about five years ago, and carried on for some time an Orphanage in Akola. She was a woman of very strong and simple faith. When she left Buffalo for India, she bad only enough money to take her to Liverpool, but she had her trunk labelled " Bombay," and before she left New York no less than two people were competing for the privilege of sus- taining her in India. About t wo years ago she removed her home to Poona and resolved to carry on her work indei)endently of the AiJJANX'E as a work of faith. She did this in the kindest spirit, and wa.s always on the most friendly terms with our missionaries. But she felt the Lord was leading her to tru'^l Him directly for her means of support in the work. During her residence in Poona she endeared herself to very many, 8l4iujU»M|iua,ltS;< l iBiWfei-»g -^''^^HI BUi LANDS. )onsi, tho Eng- hotl Church of II but lightly many Eiighvsh >taneople, that a score of missionaries might come out of that company, and that all the rest might live such lives that from them would " sound out " the Gospel to all the heathen multitudes of Poona. We left Poona by daylight Monday morning, and by eleven o'clock found ourselves once more in Bombay. The day was spent very busily in getting through a two weeks' mail, and preparing for another journey that night to North India. After the days' work was over, and we had taken Mrs. Fuller to the train for Akola, and once more said " Good-bye " to our Berar work through her, we had an hour to spare before sunset, and so we drove along the shore to the famous Malabar Hill where the wealthy Bombay merchants reside. This is the most magnificent drive in the world. For two or three miles it skirts the Indian Ocean, and then follows the crest of the hill which is a high peninsula between two arms of the sea, so that it is constantly exposed to the breeze and never can be hot. The view from the hill, out upon the sea, ssss LANDS. late, and, like oreigners. It, with wide act eristic fea- ;lish-speaking ' to know the >se multitudes spoke to these onaries might st might live " the Gospel ling, and by ombay. The a two weeks' ight to North i^e had taken 36 more said ? had an hour e shore to the ay merchants rid. For two 3n follows the en two arms e breeze and upon the sea, "IT, *msME^^^ mmmm tummuM >!Hi«M«ll| l lllM! >l<>i»WWWWB!BljHpw ;j]t,,,.^... -.-..4-^1 j MADR.IS TO BOMBAY. 201 across the harbor to the Colabba, and theli across tlie plain over the great city with its superb buildings and its forests of acacias, palms, banyans, i)lantains, and a wealth of lux- uriant vegetation, crowded with picturesque houses and teeming with moving human beings of almost every nation, and dressed in almost every hue cannot be surpassed by anything which we have ever seen or expect to see. As we drove dow n the hill on oiu* way back to the city, we passed the " Towers of Silence,*" where the rich Parsees expose their dead, and as we remembered liow much of the wealth of Bombay is in their hands, and then realized their end, and saw the very vultures sitting on the trees around ready for their prey, we felt how little all the pomp and grandeur of the world was worth without God, and the pre- cious hopes of the gracious Gospel. We found the missionary circles in Bombay deeply stirred with a great controversy. In P*^ > . 'ler last the Decennial Missionary Conference of India was ..leld in Bombay, and attended by several hundred missionaries from various parts of India. At that Conference much disappointment was felt because the leaders of the meeting managed to prevent the Confer- ence from passing any bold or positive resolutions protesting against the three most crying evils of the land, viz., the Liquor Traffic, the Opium Traffic, and the Licensing of Social A'ice. Meetings were held of an informal character to show the facts respecting these glaiing evils, but the Convention ■P " ! nxmm 202 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MfSS/CNARY LANDS. was not allowed to record any definite protest under the pre- text that these subjects were not included in the programme laid out at the beginning, and, also, because it was under- stood that no subject should bo presented about which there was not perfect unanimity of opinion. By some skillful par- liamentary management the Conference was led to decline, THE SACREO COW OF INDIA. by a vote of 105 to 102, to pass any resolutions or express any opinion upon these questions. Their action has awakened a storm of criticism all over the Christian world, and the missionaries of India are feeling themselves betrayed into a false position, and a great deal of strong feeling is being expressed on every side. *mmmm hVDS. der the pre- program me was under- which there skillful par- te decline, express any 3ni all over I are feeling reat deal of GARDEN OF THE TAJ. A "Kodak" photofrraph taken by >lr. Simpson. .yfAPR.lS TO liOMliAY. 203 Mr. Dyer, the editor and proprietor of the Bombay (fuar- dian, was one of the advocates of a bold and uncompromising stand at the Conference. Wo beUeve the storm will clear the air, and compel all true men to speak out on these and all such questions with a voice which will be felt at the very throne of India and Enj;- land, and in the heart )f every missionary that is afraid of offending man more than God, if there l)e such in India, which may God forbid ! But if there is any difference of opinion among the mis- sionaries of India on either of these three great questions— the Liquor Traffic, the Opium Traffic, or the Licensing of Social Impurity in India, the sooner it is known by the churches at home the better. We need not say there is no doubt about tiie attitude of our dear missionaries on these (piostions, or of any other mis- sionaries we have met in India. XIII. BOMBAY TO BENARES. "^"^ jTK were able to spend the last two weeks of our brief W visit to India in the Northwest and Northern Prov- inces. One object was to see a fesv of the ancient and characteristic cities, such as Delhi, Agra, I^ucknow, Cawnpore and Benares, and another was to see something of the mission work in which God has been so marvelously pouring out His Spirit in these northern fields. We selected the western route through the independent states of Baroda, Guzerat and Kajpootana, passing through the famous cities of Ahmedabad, Baroda, Ajmeer and Jey- pore. As we got farther north we found the season much later than in Central and Southern India. The fields were green with waving harvests of wheat, and other grains, and the reapers had only begun, in a few instances, to cut down the grain. The air became cooler and the nights, indeed, cold, so that the heaviest covering was needed. Tlie fall of snow in the northern mountains has been unusually heavy, and in the whole of India the hot season is a month later than usual, so that we have almost entirely escaped the oppressive weather we expected. We cannot sufficiently thank God for 204 of our brief •thern Prov- the ancient , Lucknow, amething of marvelously independent ing through er and Jey- \'ison much fields were grains, and o cut down lits, indeed, The fall of ally heavy, h later than 9 oppressive ink God for w ;''.P''-^^^ ^m&g^.. ■V SIDE VIEW OF THE TAJ. A " Kodak photograph taken by Mr. Simpson. -^■^m' His extraordinary goodness in thus answering prayer, and enabling us to accomplish so much work without hind- rance. ^»' ;^,, MM(SiJ'.''!j«B'a'B''*' "'^' ' '*»*! 206 LARGER Ol^ri.OOKS OX Mrss/ON.IRV LANDS. Tho Native Princen of India are very st lict in their laws for the protection of animals, in some cases jirohihiting the shooting of game and oven the slaughtering of animals for food, and so, throughout the great State of Iiiij[)ootana, ani- mal life was very abundant and interesting. Scores of mon- keys weie hanging from the trees or gamboling over the ground. Many beautiful birds were constantly appearing, "i'^x ■ >ii^.. THE FORT, AGRA. wild peacocks with magnificent tails, great cranes and adju- tant birds as tall as a man, green parrots, pelicans, jiigeons, beefsteak birds, immense buzzards, and many pretty little birds of bright plumage. We saw many herds of deer, and, occasionally, a wolf or a fox, on the great plains. Our first considerable stop was at the old city of Agra. mem-'-'^tm^: LANDS. in their laws roliihiting tlio •f Jiiiinials for jpootana, ani- cori'8 of nion- ling over the ly ni)pearing, les and adju- ans, pigeons, pretty little of deer, and, city of Agra. jioArniY TO lu-y.tK'Ks. 207 ThiH wuH one ..f the feet high. To our eye it is more im- l)ressive than the Pyramids, and very beautiful in its design and execution. There is a stair- _ > - -- way leading to the top and the view is very fine. In the even- ing we drove ve r all the scenes of the Indian Mu- tiny. Wo stood on tlie famous ridge where the British siege lines were posted. We entered the Cashmere Gate, where the storming party of English soldiers broke through the walls and planted the flag of victory, where fifty out of every seventy-five fell bleeding and dying under the murderous fire of the foe, and the noble leader, Gen. Nicholson, was carried back to die just as he had won the costly victory which saved India. We gazed on the splendid CHANONI CHANK, MAIN STREET, DELHI. •I 314 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. monument coinmemomting these lieroic achievements, and tolling how nion th.m :],0o(> brave men fell m this desperate struggle. And we thought how much it Juid (;o9t England to gain India, and how greatly the obligation wart enhanced to make the mont of this great trust for God. In the same circle of ( ities we also in- ( 1 u d e d Cawnpore and Lucknow. Both the^ cities have a pathetic interest in connection with the Mutiny. Cawnpore was the scene of the most awful tr.igedy of modern war. viz., " " las- sacre of th< I'liish garri ' by the in earn ohend Nann MEMORIAL AT CAWNPO; SahlU, aft ^i" had surreudereU « hi.' issuranr of protection. After he had mi dered all the men, he took the women and chil en capti i' f ' ir a fate more cruel than death, and when he found that tli' city was about to Ic recaptured, he murdered them also, and cast the bodies ANDS. vements, aud this desperate (^ost England ^•art enhanced ike the mont 8 great trust id. le same circle 38 we also in- e d Cawnpore icknow. Both cities have a jic interest in ition with the y. Oawnpore the scene of most awful [y of modern n-i.., ''^" las- >f tht i'iiish by the in e hend Nana afl 'i8y irrendercu dered all the >r a fate more ity was aboiit ast the bodies liOMIiAY TO lit: S ARKS. 2^5 of the dead and the living together into a great well, where a Memorial now stands with this inscription : "Sacred to the perpetual niemory of a great conjpany of Christian peo- pie, chiefly women and children, who near this spot were cruelly massacred by the followers of the rebel, Nana Sa- hib, and cast, the dying with the dead, into the well below, July 15, 1857." Lucknow stands about seventy miles north of Cawnpore. It is the largest city of Northern India, except Calcutta, and well called —"Beau- tiful Lucknow." It is, indeed, a most charming city. The English section, known as the "Residency Hill," is very handsome, and even the native city is pretty and picturesque. Seen from the old Residency Tower, it is a great sea of green trees and fields set NANA SAHIB. 2i6 i.ARai.R orri.oois ox ynssioxARv lands. with white «lome8, roofs, and iiiinaiots, fur miltvs and niiloB. U is full of niosqiu.'H and tempi. h. But -aftor its MisHionH— its most interesting s,ene8 are those connected with the Mu- tiny. ( )ur kiii.l friends took us over all th. ground, so familiar to us in our boyhood, thirty six years aj^o, when these events PALACE ON THE QUMTI, LUCKNOW. were thrilling our hearts, where Lawrence, Havelock and Sir Colin Cam pl)ell so nobly fought for the "K.w out of survived e heroes, eroes ? If us not be Dmething 1857. It larters of ; so won- past four ,rker and [.)ortunity )d has so We have nary sys- The sys- as a cer- lich may 'ho is in- to learn r general BOMBAY TO BEXARES. 219 ^^^^^^ilA'fM^^^^ RUINS OF THE SIEGE OF LUCKNOW. overseer of the whole field. Then over each District is a Pre- siding Elder, who exercises a more special superintendence over all the workers in that field. Under him, the various American or English workers have their respective depart- ments. Some are Pastors of the P^nglish Church in the Dis- 2 20 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. trict. Some are Superintendents or Professors in the Train- ing College or Seminar3^ Some are teachers in the High School for boys or girls. Some have charge of an Orphanage or a Home. And some are evangelists, at large, to preach the gos])el in ^'arious places. But each has a special depart- ment. And .vhen they are scattered about in various cen- tres, one of them is usually local Superintendent of all the work in that city and section. Then come the native workers. And this is the right arm of the Methodist Mission. There are, comparatively, few American workers even in the great Provinces of Oude and Rohilcund and amongst a church of more than fifty thousand native Christians. Most of the work is done by hundreds of native brethren, and the American worker is chiefly a superintendent. There are several classes of these native workers. One or two have been found worthy to be made Presiding Elders. Many of them are Native Pastors, having charge, in almost all cases, of the native churches. Some of them are Evangelists, preaching the gospel in the villages. The Native Pastors receive a moderate salary of about |r)0 to ^75 per year But there is another class of native workers which more than any other seems to us to be a recovered link in the great chain of personal work, and this is the agency to which more than any other, it seems to us, that, under God, the extra- ordinary success of this Mission is due. They are what they call " Pastor teachers," a sort of intei'mediate link between the Native Pastor and the heathen people. They are hum- STTSS? NDS. I the Train- n the High Orphanage !, to preach cial depart- .^arious cen- t of all the s the right iparatively, es of Oude than fifty is done by worker is es of these jrthy to be i^e Pastoi's, ! churches, spel in the e salary of i^hich more n the great v'hich more the extra- vvhat they k between T are hum- BOMRAV TO IiEXAR/':S. 221 ble men, of limited abiUty and experience, but sincere Chris- tians full of zeal and new-born love. And they are set to work in hundreds of places, with a very small allowance of 115 to -«^20 a year, as teachers in hundreds of little country villages. The place they hold their school in is a little hut (and we saw some of them), that can be rented for a mere trifle. It has, per- haps, no windows and only a clay floor and mud walls. But in this place the teacher opens a lit- tle school for the boys and girls, and begins to teach them all he knows He is not very far on, but he is a good way beyond them. And his principal class is the Bible, and the Gospels. And so he teaches, and when he can get some of the parents to come in, he preaches to them, and his simple kindness wins the confidence of old and young, and before long there are in- quirers, and conversions, and baptisms. GATEWAY, LUCKNOW. 222 I./IJ^aER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. This simple network of schools and native evangelists has gradually spread over all the Northwest Provinc! o^ the LTof :f "' 'l"" """ """^ •"*" ^^^»- «Pi-"«aliCo «.e part of the workers, and a very real outpouring of the Holy Ghost on many hearts. The result is that during the pas two or three years there has been a great ingatheringo uls and more than fifty thousand have been added to the church by baptism. The additions have not been so sudden Zlu\ ""t ™"«" '^^•'^' ""' t"" -™^- ha" fs like^t!'™ '" " T ^""'' '™ *" '"'^''^^"-^ -- that it s hkely prove, not a special and sporadic movement, but IZ : r'^f"""""""'^'' "'^'^ ™^ agencies 'th^ are hkely to contnme bnnging forth sue,, fruit without in- rrupfon. We were glad to find that similar revivals IZ still gomg on m many of the churches Another interesting feature of this Mission is the impor. t^t,on of the Camp Meeting into the heathen field. ZZ .t was here before, but they have consecrated it to a higte and hoher use. The heathen a.. ve,y fond of holding whl they cab Malas or rehgious festivals, and gathering iL.'a crowds ma g™ve to celebrate the p^ses of some god The m,ss>ona„.s have be.n holding their ^a^o., too, and as many as two thousand people have sometimes attended them t cudmg many heathen, and there have been great numC of conve:.,o„s, just as in our g..at meetings ft home Wl were very much pleased to find these simple, troe and agJL B.ve methods in this good work, and we ax^e sure thaTfTb work must be blessed and can only pray that God m2y ^^ tiply it more and more. ^ ^•5K»aflK||m^iiaM^""*'' -~WP: ANDS. ^Q evangelists Provinces of spirituality on During of the it during the igathering of added to the 3n so sudden imbers have 8 are that it )vement, but tgencies that '> without in- evivals were s the impor- Id. Indeed, i to a higher olding w^hat ing in great e god. The nd as many 'd them, in- at numbers lome. We ind aggres- 3 that such 1 may mul- BOMBAY TO BENARES. 223 Of course, these friends have the advantage, that we do not yet possess, of a strong force of native converts to draw their workers from. This is the result of an experience of more than forty years. Until we can raise up this force from among our own converts, we must depend chiefly upon our American missionaries as pioneers ; but, as their work is blessed, we are sure that they will not be ashamed to copy the example of our friends in their grand use of every kind A native material, even the very humblest. While we hope to see the churches of America still pour thousands of vi'orkers into this land, yet the real work of v^inning and holding India for Jesus must ultimately be done by the people of India themselves. We spent a deligatful day with Dr. Parker and the mis- sionaries at Lucknow. We learned much of the history and geography of the field, and the methods of the work. We saw most of the leading workers at Lucknow, and more de- voted and large-hearted men and women we do not know. We visited the excellent High School and College. We had the pleasure of addressing the English Church in their com- modious building, and meeting Rev. Mr. Osborne, who was holding revival services there. Mr. Osborne is a native of India and a man of much spiritual power. On the following Saturday and Sabbath at Bareilly, we saw still more of the work. At the hospitable home of Dr. Scott, we learned much from his experience as an old pioneer on the frontiers of the field. We met the students of the Theological Seminary of vrhich he has charge, and were de- 224 I-ARCER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. lighted with these sixty-five native young men who reminded us so much of our own work at home. We visitt-i tlie girls' Ori)hanage and Schools, and hrighter, sweeter faces we never saw than these two Imndred dear Rohilcund girls. We had the joy of preaching the gospel through an in- HOU8E8 IN RAJPOOTANA. A ' ' Kodak " photogrraph taken by Mr. Simpson. terpreter, and of seeing two souls come out and receive bap- tism. And on Sabbath evening, our last Sabbath in India, we spoke once more for the Master to the English congrega- tion in Bareilly, and although the company was not a great one, the Lord was present, and souls were, we beUeve, blessed and brought very near to Him. It was a blessed day, indeed \ IJVDS. lo I'eininded f '1 the girls' es we never ceive bap- i in India, congrega- ot a great re, blessed ly, indeed BOMBAY TO BExWAfiliS. 225 a blessed series of days— our visit to the M. E. Mission of Lucknow and Bareilly. Nor must we forget Delhi, or the dear missionary that came to see us and spent an hour wuth us before wo left, and told us with mutual joy of the five hundred souls that he had been permitted to gather from among the heathen during the past year. We were so glad to leave our India work and our brother, Mr. Fuller, in touch with this blessed Mission, and we were also much gratified to be able to gain much valuable informa- tion respecting openings on the frontier of Nepaul and Thibet —one of the chief objects for which we had come to North India. But we shall speak more fully of this again. It was a disappointment not to meet our dear friend and former guest, Miss Anna Buddin, but her field is so remote, on the frontier of Nepaul and Thibet and six days' journey from Bareilly. that there was not time for her to get down ; but we heatd many cheering things of her brave and blessed work, and had a very kind telegram from her. We were glad to be assured that should we be led to send our workers to these frontier fields, the old standard bearers at <^he front woukl be gli>,a Ic greet them and cheer them on their way. There are other excellent Missions in Northern India. Tht Presoyi;iiiians are in the Punjaub and Rajpootana. But i; -u as impossible for us, in the short time at our disposal, to go there also. We left Bareilly for Benares early Monday morning, and spent most of the day in the old capital of Hinduism. Be- \ ■ I, ' h^i ■ 4 Ir- -- -- nOMBAY TO BENARES. 227 :>m^^:.- v-C < z UJ (0 nares is the ancient home of the founder of Buddhism, and the Sacred City of the Hindus. We had read niuch of the Gauges and its temples, and we expected nmch that would, at least, interest us. But never did we meet with a more heart- sickening disa])pointment. Some one has said tlie place to read "The Light of Asia" is Benares. We should think it is. If any one v/ishes to see the hoUowness, fool- ishness and filthi ness of Hinduism and heathenism, let him look through the Ben- ares temples on the Ganges. There are hun- dreds of them, and we saw the most of them and the hest of them but they were all disappointingand disgusting. The first was their famous " Golden Temple," but it was full of filthy mosque of aurunqzub, benares. 328 LAfiGiiR orn.ooKs o,y uissioiv.i/^y lands. cows, and naked prio^ts, and obscene images and foi ! Brnell*?, and the wtr.Hjts arouj I i( were crowded with bazaars BolUnJ thousands of objects of re ious worship, that n< lecent man or woman could touch or 1< )k at. The next was th. famous ^^ ikey Temple, ai 1 it was Httle bntter. The god and i^fviipss at the ontrui. ; are obj(cifc, of terror, and the monkeys that (tirouged it and fed on the weetmeats ( iTered the worslsippers were by far best looking best dressed people around. The next was the Nepaulese Tem- ple, the gift of a Prince of Nepaul, and the carvings were too vile and obscene to look at, far less describe. The cattle were al- lowed to frequent THE MONKKY TEMPLE. '..INDS. <1 foil fimells, azaars selling o decent man 0, ail it was better. The id gf) ""'less at ntran* (3 are > of torror, le monkeys thronged it ed »n the leats oifered worsliippors :)y far ooking essed people 3 next was )aule8e Tem- gift of a of Nepaul, le carvings oo vile and to look at, 3 describe, le were al- io frequent noMn.iY TO iU':N.iA'f-:s. 229 the temples a i objects of worship, and even the manure that pollutrd 1 1 -loor was treasured as a satred thing. The l^eople were bathing in the Ganges, but, side by side, others were wasliing their dirty clothes in the same stream they worshipped. The river front did not even have the merit of architectural beauty. It is an old tnmble-down atlnir. with a f'"^' striking old towers and spires. i t this - duistn. whole down was vi- this VI. vvor- ing down. Pilgrims are tinually t o nable shrines, men, women are worship- themostinde ON THE GANGES. a tyi)eof Hin- g 1 a d the is breaking alas ! there deuce that ship is break - Thousands of coming con- these abomi- Millions o f and children ping as divine cent and ob- scen(> things. The very instincts uf nature seem to have been perverted and destroyed, and they take pleasure in things that seem to us to have no interest or charm, but are utterly depressing, revolting and hideous. This is the saddest thiu^ about heathenism. It is so lost that it does not even know how lost it is. Well, we are glad we saw Benares and Bareilly. One is the heaven side of India, the other the side that takes hold on hell. God help us speedily to lift this sunken laud from liell to heaven 1 XIV. PROM THE HIMALAYAS TO THE HOOQHLY. LKAVINO Bonares at sunset, a n,l„ „f WKhteen hours took „„ „„w„ the valley of the (iangex to Sahehgange fl„„f ?' " ™''^ *""""''"' "*■• ""'' '«• «» through th„ finest cou„t,.y «■„ have yet see,, i„ l,„„a. The whole fandl irr.^te,l, and it looks like a tropical gai-den. The fields a,e cut up into little sections about flftv feet square ,epa,-ated by a little ridge of sand to hold th, wate^ btr^il'TV''™^' '■''''"• ''*™'"*'"''-«-'^"'- gold Some of the harvests were while and wavinst like great baune,,ot gold. Many were green and of ever; sha Th,ckly dotted .n every di,-ection, and often clustered in pi u,esque groups, we.« myriads of ,„ango fee.,, their foliage so nch and dense that no sunbea,n can .strike through, i^! ests of the hnest palms waved on every side U. H*^"*r '"' ™"" "^ * -nagniflcent banyan .spreading wide ft^t ,« • " ""T'^ ""■"'«'>' "P '"'» "•« "«» Bky with Its tuft of wav,ug b,anches gathered at the ton. It is 1 St th '! °' "' '"'°^™- '" «"- "o""- with the ^nt nght^u, the boson, of its vast t,.nnk, the banyan liteLly tL: 30GHLY. igliteen hours ) Haht'hgange. H through th.- whole land is )out fifty feet d t ho waters ; ;reat chocker- >f greon and waving Hke every shade, tered in pic- their fohage "ough. For- reading wide nk a stately lue sky with op. It is a th the pahn 'an literally .._ .rfjlB*- ^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) ^ f/. e Z. s-j 1.0 I.I Ui|2£ |2.5 L50 '"^ 2.2 us ■u ■a |4 2.0 1.8 L25 IIIU I .6 > V ff /2 HiotDgrapJiic Sciences Coiporation %^"^ '^%^' 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ ''I ,.<;' <; ;^ ! ? ! J^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. ^ Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques i Jh'OM l III: HI. U. ILA) AS TO THE IIOOCIIL Y. 2 3 1 throwing its arris around it and embracing it in its bosom— a sublime tigure of loveliness in the arms of strength, or gen- tleness combined witli power. The shade trees of India are made for the climate. Then- foliage is impenetrable by the fiery sun, and every field has its natural protection from the deadly stroke of that heat which no one can understand who has not felt it. The ban- yan is one of the finest, and often sends down its branches to form dozens of new trunks and take fresh root in the soil. The mango is not only a tree of sur p a s s- ing beau t y and g r a c e , very much like our rock A LANDING PLACE ON THE GANGES. maple, but much finer ; it also bears a splendid fruit— the typical fruit of India, and one unsurpassed by any in the world, combining, perhaps, the best qualities of the psi^ch and the pear, but much richer than either. The fig tree grows everywhere, especially on the hills, and the fruit is now in its perfection. One variety of it is " The People Tree," which is worshipped everywhere. Then there are plantains, guavas and scores besides, bearing excellent fruit. 232 j.ARaF.n orri.ook's ox j\/rsswxAF?y lands. The bananas of India are much superior to ours. The small ones have a i)fculiar flavor as if tliey had been cooked and sweetened, and liave none of tlie dryness and harshness of the American fruit. But the queen of India's trees is the palm, Tln-ee varieties grow heie. The date palm is quite common. The cocoanut palm is seen in considerable quantities in Bombay, Madras and elsewhere. The most common is the Palmyra palm, which the natives tap to make an intoxicat- ing drink called toddy. You can see an earthen pot hang- ing from the to]) of most of tliem, and a native climbs the tree night and morning to gather and replace the pots. The tree is always beautiful and makes almost any scene a picture of grace and loveliness. At Sahebgange we left our train and sailed up the Ganges for an hour or more, to connect with the train run- A HIMALAYAN PASS. A'ns. FROM Till-: IIIMAI.A Y IS TO THE liOOCIII. Y 233 The small cooked and larshness of queen of ?es is the ee varieties The date te commcn. lut palm is ■onsideiable in Bombay, I elsewhere, common is yia palm, natives tap 1 intoxicat- \k called )u can see pot hang- the top of lem, and a lbs the tree morning to >^s beautiful 1 loveliness, led up the train run- t iiing northward to our destination in the Himalaya :iTo'tn- tains. It was an interesting sail on the ancient river, with its sandy shores audits broad expanse, diversified here and there by the strangest looking old ships we ever saw, drawn by Cooli(>s on the banks by means of a long rope from the mast- head. At length Ave disembai'ked and took the train north- ward to Siliguri at the base of the Himalaya Mountains. Then began an eight hours" journey which we shall ever remember with intense vis^idness and !)leasure. It was the ascent of tlie Himalayas by rail. It was not a long ride, only fifty miles, but it took us all day to go these fifty miles, and, at no time, could the engine exceed seven miles an hour. In these fifty miles we ascended nearly S,(»00 feet, or more than a mile and a half, and the grade, at some points, was as steep as one foot in twenty. We have had a good many mountain climbs and mountain \iews, the Alps, the Kes- wick liills, Ben Lomond and the Scottish Mountains, the Whi+e Mountains, the peaks and passes of the Itockies, the '■■ .rras, and the beautiful Coast Range, and yet more lately the terrific gorges of the Ghauts at Mahabelashur and Sidney Point,— and we have often accepted the old refrain as indis- imtable : " Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains ; They crowned him long ago On a throne of rock 'noath a dome of cloud, With a diadem of snow." But Mont Blanc must yield the diadem to Kinchin junga, and the old Himalayas claim the unapproachable i)re-emi- "ip^ 234 LARGER OUTLOOKS OS' MISSIONARY LANDS. nence. Never before have we been quite satisfied with a mountain view. It has always been to us a httle less than our ideal. We have always been looking for something that was really above the clouds. But as we stood the following morning, nearly 8,000 feet MOUNT EVEREST, FROM OARJEELING. above the sea, at Ghoom, and looked down into the abyss a mile and a half below us, and then up to the snow-crowned peaks that towered /our w?7e.s' aftore even the heights where we were standing, we were satisfied ; imagination and mem- ory had fovmd a resting place at last for the vision of earthly majesty. Some day we hope to gaze upon the Hills of God and the Throne above the clouds, but earth can have few YDS. led with a 5 h'ss than Jthing that ' 8,000 feet le abyss a w^-crowned ;hts where and meni- of earthly :ills of God have few FROM Till: IllMAL. I )'- /> TO Till. IIOQi.lll Y. 235 suLlimer visionH than these majestic depths of mist, and domes of eternal snow. Kinchin junga and Everest, the two highest peaks visible from Darjeeling, are about 'J!>,()0() feet high, or more than two miles liigherthan Mont Blanc, or the peaks of the Rocky Mountains— or even the Sierras. The most remarkable featuie of these vast mountains is the abrui)tness of their rise. You are approaching the; Rocky Mountains for miles, and when their peaks come into view you are already 5,000 feet above the sea, and they are only about 10,000 above you. But the Himalayas rise like a great perpendicular wall directly from their base. You travel along a level plain right up them, and their great, huge shoulders begin to emerge from the horizon before you have reached an elevation of 50O feet. Ghoom itself, which is nearly S,000 feet high, is not twenty-five miles in a straight line from the plain, although it takes fifty miles of winding through the valleys to reach it. The objective point of our journey was Darjeeling, a hill station, and the terminus of the Darjeeling and Himalayan Railway. It was built as a military station and summer health resort, and is removed far above the heat of the India sum' 'r. The railroad has been open for ten years and it is a marv. 1 of engineering skill. It is interesting to watch its windings around the hills and its zig-zags up the mountain sides. Sometimes it runs round the same hill in a spiral, as- cending course several times ; sometimes it reverses and switches back and then forward several times in a zig-zag course up the hill-side. Talk of the famous " Horseshoe 236 /../A'o7;a' 0/ 7 /.(>() a:s ox m/ss/ox.ia')' r.A.vns. Ciirvt)" of i\w Allf'ghcnies. why, this little track somotimes runs round a i)orf»'(;t circle of loss than a hundred feet, and (losses itself, until the front and rear cars form a semicircle. The ganj;(! is only two feet wide and twists about like an elastic little sei-jjent. Of course, the views as you ascend are vtny fine. Often you look down a pei'ijendicnlar cliflf into a gorge one thou- sand feet dee]). N'alley after valley si)reads out before you as you a s- cend, and the d i 8- t.int plain and the rive r w i n d thro ugh it until all are lost in the dim distance ; while above you new heights tower up, and each elevation is only a foot-hill for some grander peak. Tlie vegetation is very fine. After we had got uj) a few hundred f(>et we got into the first forests we had seen in India. The thing most noticeably absent in this land is forest tree^'. There are plenty of small trees, but the great giants of the forest— trees from sixty to one hundred and fifty feet high— we have nowhere seen, except in the Himalayas. But here they are in all their glory, vying with the hills for immensity,— A HIMALAYAN PEAK. yps. FROM THE HIM ALA YAS TO THE HOOGHL K 237 : Koniotimos (1 foot, a!ul 8eniicircl(i. imfc like an ine. Often s one thon- ifoie you as y o 11 as- cend, and i iii: inn x.iii. y. 239 and tlu' wliite zig/Jig i)aths cut ihiough tlwui up and down llu' mouiitaiiiK, whilf hove and tliut of the Scotch Mission, and his excellent wife, and also Mr. and Mrs. lirown, in charge of the Union English Church. We liad a good view of the beautiful town of Dar- jeeling, and next morning went over to Ghoom to see tho SWEDISH MISSIONARIES AT DARJEELINQ. A " Kodak" photograph takeu by Mr. Siiupsou, ladies of the Mission. The gentlemen accompanied us, and we spent two blessed hours at the feet of Jesus, putting down the soles of our feet vei-y firmly upon Thibet, and feel- ing very sure that God has given it to us. As we came down from the mountain we felt that our /../.was: iihiill, Suporiu- Uciit wife, and Union J'^iiglisli il town of Dar- )om to st'c the panied us, and Jesus, putting ibet, and feel- felt that our Fh'^)^r I III'. iiiM.u f y. is to riir. iioociii. v. 249 A-isit to India was about linished. In a most veniaikable mannei- God liad led us to the places that had been laid on our hearts, and made them mean much more to us than wo had over hopcul. The seeing of the country itself has had little interest to usapai't from its connection with the Master's work and kingdom. QOVERNMENT HOUSE, CALCUTTA. Twenty-four hours brought lis to Calcutta, and although we had a little while to spare in that stately capital of the great Indian Empire, and felt impressed with its superb mag- nificence as we drove through the spacious streets and al- most boundless parks and gardens, yet we felt that we were not needed here, and were glad that we wei-e to pass on so mmm 'Tr !i I H 250 /.AHaiiiA' oi'TLoohs o.Y A//ss/o.\\iA'} /..i.vns. BANYAN TREE, ROYAL BOTANICAL GARDENS, CALCUTTA. soon to other lands, where God is bidding us lift up our eyes on the liarvests that are white also. We called at the beautiful Methodist Parsonag*^ and heard of the good work of our brethreii in the oity ; also of the Woman's Union work, and several English and S(X)tch Soeie- ties. 1 -.~:F^^^^S!'~-iiJf^:iV>tl AND6. r¥- *f\ E^C^-I/'^ FA. b up our eyes ig(>uM(l lieard ; also of tlio Scotch Socie- FROM riiE HIM. If. I » /> /<> i">' Hoo<;in. v. 25 1 Wo went to tilt' Itoyal Hotiiiiicnl (^aniens, four iiiilrs below the <-ity ..11 the other side of the Hooglily, Juul saw the wondeiful Hanyan Tree of which every school hoy has read, which cov«'rs with its hram^hes a space of L'C.o fe«!t in diam- eter, or ino.e than a whole city block. We walked down th.» double avenue of palms which stand twenty feet a]. art, a double line of glorious lullars along an avenue r.uO feet long. It was the grandest piece of architiM'tnre we ever saw. THE HOOQHLY RIVER. Straight as an arrow, unifoim in size and height, these glo- rious white columns rose for fifty feet, and then all, at pre- cisely the same height, terminated in a crown such as no architect could carve. This garden, a mile long, contains, per- haps, the finest collection of tropical vegetation in the worM. On our way home we took a boat and had a genuine sad on the Hooghly. It would have made our readers laugh till they cried if they could have seen us. The boat was big enough to hold fifty nuui, but it was the smallest we saw on the river. They are all great, monstrous, outlandish lookmg t!|i 252 J..-iR(;rR or-r/.noA-s ox .vrssrox.wy a^ixdm: tliiiip;.s. It has a givat h'n^ cabin covrivd with a pjeco of Lamhoo inattiiiK, as a roof, ami, of coin-se, m-raiigcd for ('vory ono to Hit croKHlcggcd on the floor, thn only way a Hindu knows how to sit. Well, wo got in tho old rickoty thing and Kit down, and then two half-naked Coolies la^gan to propel it, whilo one stt'cn'd. But tho i»ro|HHing apparatus ! Well, it consisted of two long haniboo poles, about thirty feet long, which they stuck down inlo iln bottom (.f th(> river, one on each Hide, and pushed the boat with, and when they had pushed tho boat's l(>ngth they would race forward, stick the judo down, and give another long push, and so back ward and forward these two half-naked Coolies trotted, pushing us along tho shallow edge of tlu* liver until tho sun went down over Calcutta, and the lanij/s flashed out along its avenues and streets. Our last view of India life Avas siu-ely an original one. But every day and hour brings otTt 'some new side of their siniple and primitive life. Poor tinngs ! Without Christ their life is very bmall, and we were wondering, to-day, whether they or tlie birds that flutter about them have most to live for. •^ iiil r..i.\'ns. »'ith a piece of iiiK<' miles by rail, and more than 300 by carriage or cart. We have spent twenty-one nights on railway trains and only fourteen nights in a bed. And the railways of India have no Pullman sleepers, but you just lie down on the seat in your clothes and cover yourself with your rugs and go to sleep. But we are as fresh and well as when we began our journey, and the Lord has kept us from exhaustion and harm. We have, also, l)e«m permitted to see a good deal of the country. We have i; a veiled through a considerable portion of each of tiie three Presidencies : Madras, Bombay and Bengal, and also the Northwest Provinces, and even touched the Punjaub We have passed through the native states of Hyderabad, Mysore, Baroda, Guzerat, Rajpootana, and the borders of Nepaul and Bhotan. We have had the privilege of seeing something of the greatest cities of India, — Bombay, Calcutta, Madras, Bangalore, Poona, Baroda, Delhi, Agra, Cawnpore, Lucknow, Bareilly, Patna. We have seen some of India's rivers— the Ganges, the Nerbuddah, and the Hooghly. And we have crossed or climbed some of its famous mountains — the Ghauts, the Vindhyas and the Him- alayas. We have been able to visit a few of the Missions, and have had the jirivilege of meeting personally about one huu- dred and fifty of he missionaries. Especially do we thank God that He has permitted us to caiTy out most of His plans -mmit ' LAXDS. the amount of In thirty-five (1 more than 300 yr-one nights on bed. And the )ut you just He 'r yourself with esh and well as s kept us from ood deal of the iderable portion ,s, Bombay and id even touched native states of ootana, and the ad the privilege ndia, — Bombay, a, Delhi, Agra, have seen some iddah, and the led some of its as and the Him- e Missions, and about one huu- Uy do we thank lost of His plans j./:.irixi; /.\7>/.i. 255 ig, and has not which were laid u[K)n our heait before coniii disai)p()inted us in any way, or permitted us to miss a single rail- way connection, or fail to reach a single appointment. We liave had the joy of visiting those Missions, especially where God has so wonderfully poured out His Holy Spirit and we INTERIOR OF A NATIVE STORE. have been enabled to see some of the best results of modern missionary work, as well as some of the most destitute and neglected heathen fields. We have had much to thank God for in the companion- ship of our dear brother, Mr. Fuller, in these rapid journey- ings. His knowledge of two languages of India, the Marathi iKrrsu'SSS!F??»r5'5.-cT.-5,r'^" ffffl"^'" IMHI 256 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MLSSLOXARY f.AXPS. and Hiiidustaiii, lias carried us almost cvcrywliere, and hi* experience of the country has greatly facilitated all our plans ; while, on the other hand, he has gained a knowledge of the country, and an extended acquaintance among the Missions, wliich will he of the greatest value t<> liim in directing our work in India. Wevvisli, also, to thank our missionary friends in the various Missions for their hospitality and kindness every- where. We have found it very difficult to get to a hotel any- where, and the simple hospitality of Christian homes in India cannot well he exaggerated. Besides, one can see and under- stand the country so much hetter under the guidance of those who live in it. Our object in coming to India was threefold, viz.: first, to see our own missionaries, cheer and counsel them in their work, and find out new openings for the further extension of the work in other parts of India ; secondly, to visit other missions, especially those that have had the marked seal and blessing of God upon them ; and thirdly, so far as time and opportunity allowed, subordinately to these first two objects, to see and learn as much as possible about India and its people. < Reversing the order of these points, we will now endeavor to STimmarize the results of what we have learned. First, as to India and its people. Cut out of the United States the country east of the Missouri River, and multiply its population of about 40,000,000 by 7 and you will have the size and population of India. These people all live in cities, towns /..I.V/)S. vhevo, and his- 'dull our plans ; owledj^e of tlie g tho Missions, 1 directing our friends in the dndness over)'- ; to a hotel any- honies in India see and under- idance of those Fold, viz.: first, :\ them in their "ther extension , to visit other larked seal and XV as time and •st two objects, t India and its 1 now endeavor •ned. of the United md multiply its ill have the size in cities, towns- /./r.//7.\v,' rxnr.i. 257 and villages. Tliere are no farm houses in India. There are, at least, a score of great cities with over 1()(\0(hi inhabitants. There are twice as many between 5<),00(> and loO,000, and there are, probably, a quarter of a million smaller towns and villages scattered all over the land. In many cases the popu- THE HIQH COURT, CALCUTTA. latlou is as high as three hundred to the square mile. Of India's 283,000,000, at least 50,000,000 are Mohammedans, and most of the balance are Hindus. The Hindus are of various castes. The Brahmins are the Mghest, and they are very proud and exclusive. There are, Hi 25'S [.ARi:i:R OCTLOOKS ox MfSSroXARY LANDS. nominally, four {;i'eat castes, but leally they are much more numerous. The lowest caste, is, perhaps, the sweepers — really the scavengers of the cities and houses, and how low this work is only one can understand who has lived in India, But the lower one's caste is, the more rigid is he in sticking to it; and making the most of his little hit of self-import- ance. Politically, India is divided into a few great sections for the purpose of government. The most populous is the Ben- gal Presidency ; next, the Madras Presidency ; then, the Bom- hay Presidency. Besides the three Presidencies there are several other sections not included in them, viz., the Central Provinces, the Northwest Provinces and Oude, the Punjaub, Sinde, and Assam. Over each of these there is a Lieutenant Governor, and suj^reme over all — a Viceroy or Governor General. Besides, there are a number of independent native states under British protection, such as Hyderabad, Mysore, etc., aggregating about 60,000,000 of people. In each of these there is a British President, an officer representiiftg the Eng- lish government, who holds a sort of supervision over the affairs of tlie state in conjunction with the Rajah or native prince. The government of India is probably the most perfect in the world. It is an absolute monarchy, but it moves like a great machine, and even the natives acknowledge its infinite superiority to anything they ever knew. One is overwhelmed at the thoroughness of this enormous piece of machinery. In every District is a little army of officials representing every de- LANDS. are much more ;he sweepers — 3, and how low lived in India, he in sticking of self-import- eat sections for lous is the Ben- then, the Bom- ncies there are iz., the Central e, the Punjaub, is a Lieutenant y or Governor ipendent native ;rabad, Mysore, w each of these intijftg the Eng- vision over the Rajah or native most perfect in I it moves like a edge its infinite is overwhelmed machinery. In anting every de- LEAVING INDIA. 259 partment of administration, the government providing every- thing to the people— judiciary, water sui)ply, irrigation, telegraphs, roads, medical attendance, police — everything. THE PARK, GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CALCUTTA. Every fruit tree is numbered and registered, so that if a man should cut a branch off one, it would be reported in the sta- tion that a branch had been cut from tree No. — , and the t; SKSissBiassES'-^ajEsta "m 11 if ill 260 LAPcr.R outlooks: ox missionary 1.1 xns. oflfcnder would he traced to the remotest corner of India. Every palm tree is taxed by number, every man, woman and child is known and registered, and every government official is listed in a published volume, and all the steps of his record in the public service are printed in the public register. So exact and inflexible is this system of absolute oversight, that Dr. Norman McLeod said, when he saw an official cutting a number in the bark of a tree : "o India, the very hairs of thy head are all nimibered ! " There are splendid government roads in all directions, and at most towns public houses of entertainment provided by the government. And yet this immense system of admin- istration is carried on at one twenty-fourth what it costs per head to govern France, one-twelfth that of England, and one- sixth that of Russia. It is difficult for corruption to get in, for every part is so arranged as to be a check on every other part, and nothing can escape detection. The public officers are paid large salaries, and are expected to be men of the highest capacity, and after twenty-five years' service are pen- sioned on an ample allowance. We have seen or heard of nothing that compares with the thoroug^ness of the admin- istration of this great Empire of more people than Cyrus or Cajsar ever ruled. God Himself has arranged it as a frame- work and preparation for the preaching of the Gospel in every part of this land. The people of India speak about fourteen regular lan- guages in the various districts, and about half as many ab- original dialects. The regular languages are Urdu or Hin- i j i - uiiMJwiiwmijsiiBiaMwiBm i H \ r.ANDS. / r.u/xc fxnrA. 261 1*116 !• of India. 11, woman and •nmont official s of his record il)li{; register, lute oversight, official cutting the very hail's all directions, nient provided teni of admin- lat it costs per ;land, and one- )tion to get in, 311 every other public officers be men of the tirvice are pen- en or heard of of the admin- than Cyrus or [ it as a frame- rospel in every n regular lan- f as many ab- Urdu or Hin- i ^it^^i^iiii^ijmt'miamKmiA^.iih-n dustani, Hintli, Bengali. Nciiaiili, I rya, Maratlii, 'I'diigu, Guzerati, Punjaubi, Sindi, 'raniil. Malayalliii, ('anarese and Singalt>se. About one-fourth of the pcopU' are farmers. Many more are simply laborers, and a good many have various trades It is interesting to see them in the bazaars working at their trades— in brass, blather, weaving, etc. The chief product of India is cotton. Tben oplo is carried ou their persons in precious gems. Perhaps the chief cause of their poverty is their ignorance of skilled labor. The best carpenters in the country are Chinese, they g(!t four or five times the wages of a Hindu Coolie. One of the best things our Missions can t(>ach their converts is skill in industrial work. The seasons in In- dia are three. There is, first, the cool sea- son, lasting from Nov- ember to March, when the climate is very pleasant, at times cold, and the cold, es- pecially at night, is more penetrating than in America. We have actually suffered in Egypt and India, from piercing cold, when we had to have an um- brella over us to pro- tect our head from the fiery sun, and yet our A HINDU RELIGIOUS BEGOAR. ^ody aud fect wero HNMWMa /..t.WDS. blacksmiths in is carried on chief cause of jor. The best j(>t four or five he best things sions can teach )nvert8 is skill strial work. i seasons in In- three. There , the cool sea- ting from Nov- o March, when iniate is very t, at times id the cold, es- ' at niglit, is nietrating than irica. We have f suffered in md India, from ; cold, when to have an um- WGV us to pro- • head from the m, and yet our nd feet were /./■:. n'/\(: /a/'/./. 263 Jiching with cold, even un]) them indoors in I lie lioat of tho diiy. Thti niorninj^ begins about <• o* clock with a single cup of tea and a slice of toast, which they call *' Chota hazry " or •' little breakfast. ' Then they work till breakfast time. This is the best |)ait of the day. Tile Publico S(!hools begin at gation at 7.;'t» A. M. Then comes breakfast, usually about 10 to 1 1 o'clock, compelling people to stop and rest. After breakfast the time is spent indoors for several hoius. The midday sun is very hot and dangerous. Dinner usually closes the time of rest, at, i)erhaps, 4 o'clock, and then the cool evening is free. With others there is a Titlin or lunch at 2, and then after an hour's re.st an evening of work till 7.150, when dinner closes the day. The natives take their principal meal «•( I night. Many of them work all day on an empty stomach, chewing the betel leaf, or a little pai-ched grain, and coming home at night to ])repare a little curry and rice, or, if too poor for ritie, some cheai)er grain, and then go on with nothing else till tho next night. Their homes are very poor. We were in a good many of them. They are built of clay or mats. There is one room - soriieiimes an extra one for cooking. There are often no windows. The fire is kindled of dried manure in a little open space in the corner, and the smoke disappears somewhere as best it can. They all lie on the floor. Their beds are carried with them. They are mats and cheap rugs. They all lie down togetner on the floor, wrapjied up in their luigs. JjJ.flM,i!IBUII, ' JlllUW>J)l^, i llUji.tt!R-W ' . f \'A4 ' ,, LANDS. lie out of their most depress- othing attrac- The temples litectual gran- ie, everything 'he gods are all • rather than ect of worship 111 fi'om doing •m. Think of I, and a cholera ! to b«^ jjropiti- sed. The idea 8 unknown. a good many ipers, but they id oppressed us uiess, andenip- performance. r would go in to wake up the I walk seven II. Tilt? priests ent ou getting rcises are very rinkle manure I.E. wise ixniA. 267 over the crowd, and every one is eager to get under the filthy shower. At Benares we saw cows living in the temples and turning the house of the gods into a beastly and filthy stable. On the Ganges many corpses were lying with theii- feet in the sacred river, and priests were vaking the half-burned bodies of the dead into the sacred stream where others were bathing in holy ecstasy. There is a filthy god to whom mothers often devote their baby girls, in return for some great favor, and the service of this god is a life of promiscuous shame for this poor child, in which even she has no right of choice, but is the common property of the abominable temple and all its worshi])pers. Little children are brought up from their infancy in hor- rible familiarity with all kinds of evil. There is no privacy in the home and no reserve in the talk of the family. The little ears and eyes are i)olluted before they know the difference between right and wrong. Unnatural crimes and vices are not uncommon, and men are often lower than the beasts. And yet, upon the whole, the Hindus are a far more promising race than we expected to find It is a wonder that heathenism has not left a deeper blight. Even the present generation is a thousand times worth saving. They are a civilized people. They are an affectionate people. They are a bright, intelligent people. They are our own race and have our own features and hearts. They make beautiful Chris- tians. They are Christ's peoplt? for whom He died. 0, let us go to save them ! But we must pass from the country to its Missions. 268 J.ARCIIR OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. What has been done to evangelize India? In ITOO, mission- ary work was begun in the Madras Presidency by Schwartz and others, and in isiio, Carey went to Serampoor, near Cal- cutta. The evangelization of Western India b(^gan in LSI;?. To day there are nearly one hundred missionary societies laboring in India with seven hundred male missionaries and over twelve hundred foreigJi laborers altogether, counting botli men and women. The Bible is circulated in all the lan- guages of India, and the missionaries have ])enetrated every province except Nepaul and Bhotan in the extreme north. In nearly all th(! leading cities missionaries aie ])laced, and there arc, ])rol)ably, half a million communicants in the vari- ous Missions, and, perhaps, two million native adherents al- together. It would have been a great pleasure to visit all these Mis- sions, but it would have taken a year to do so. As it was, we visited a few of those that God has most signally blessed in recent years. We saw a good deal of the Methodist and Bap- tist work, and something of the American Board and Pres- byterian Missions. We met, ])ersonally, more than one hun- dred of the missionaries of other societies than our own, and we made very careful incjuiry respecting many that we could not visit, and we are glad to say that we have a very high opinion of the missionaries and the mission work of India, upon the whole. When we think how very little has been done by the churches at home, we can only wonder that God lias made so very nmch out of it already for India. There are two sides to the missionary enterprise. One is LANDS. ItOO, rnission- y by Schwartz poor, near Cal- l)('gan in 1S1,'5. )nary societios ssionarios and thcM', counting in all the lan- netrated every xtrenie north, ire ])laced, and its in the varf- I adherents al- it all these Mis- As it was, we ally blessed in lodist and Bap- )ard and Pres- than one hun- our own, and ■ that wo could ^^e a very high k'ork of India, ittle has been >nder that God idia. ri)rise. One is /./-:. 1 17\(' /.\7)/.i. 269 the home side and the other is the foi-eign ; and we must say --as representing the fonner,--that it is very far Ixihind the other. We have not sent our missionaries to India to teach the other workers, far less to criticize them, but to help them, to supplement them, and to vie with them in holy service. It is true there are two classes among the missionaries of India, as there are tvt-o kinds of Christians at home, and the proceedings of the late Conference have given much cause for regret that there was not a bolder and more evangelical tes- timony. But we are glad that we have met the other typo of men and women, and there are enough of them to bring a great blessing to India, and to encourage the church at home to uphold their hands and reinforce their numbers as never before. But after all that has been done in and for India, the fact remains that there is still only one foreign laborer, including both men and women, to 300,000 people ; and while the great cities are, in a measure, occupied, yet there are immense spaces between them, extending sometimes to even hundreds of miles, where there are no laborers. We can count thou- sands of towns and tens of thousands of villages where the Gospel has never been preached. Besides, very much of the work of the other Societies in India is either educational or the raising up and training of native evangelists. Most of the American missionaries in nearly all of the fields we visited are simply superintendents of work. They expect the natives to do the evangelistic work and to go out as pioneers and jn-eachers. This is, no doubt, fn !, H 270 LARGER our LOOKS ON MfSSION/tRV LANDS. an excellent plan— if only we had native preachers enough. But there are no more to be had, and unless we send out men and women from America to do this work of evangeliz- ing, it will not be done. In this respect our missionaries are undertaking 0. work that is but little done by foreigners in India, and a work in which there is room for thousands more, the work of preach- ing the Gospel to the present generation before it shall have passed away. We have taken pains to collect exact information respect- ing the unoccupied fields of India, and we believe that wc shall find that more than half the population of the land is yet beyond the reach of the Gospel. But much of our interest in India must, of course, be in our own missionary work. W ha, e already spoken very fully of it, and it is only necessary for us to sum up a few general conclusions. 1, God has given us, in India, the most open field in the world. It is a civilized country under an excellent govern- ment, with railroads and highway leading in every direction, perfect security for life and property, and enough English- speaking people to open our way to every place in the land. 2. It is the most economical field in the world. The pur- chasing power of money is three or four times as great as in most other countries, and our missionaries can be sustained on less than one half what it must cost in Japan, South America and other fields, and, we believe, much less than even in China and Africa. S^ea^^^^^^^^^^ww^^^^ LANDS. LEAVING INDIA. 271 icheis enough. IS we send out c of evangeliz- taking work and a work in '^ork of preach- 3 it shall have nation respect- elieve that wc of the land is )f course, be in >ken very fully a few general ten field in the lellent govern- jvery direction, ough English- ) in the land. 3rld. The pur- as great as in n be sustained Japan, South \ less than even 3. Its languages have been thoroughly acquired, and an amj)lo Christian literature can be obtained and distributed in all of them, at a low price. 4. God lias given us an adroirable field for our work. The great province of Berar lies all along one of the leading railways of India, is easily rearbod from Bombay, has but one language, and is left for us, unoccupied by other Societies — a precious inheritance of faith and service. 5. The field has been long prepared. For twenty years faithful pioneers have been going over it preaching, praying and preparing for the harvest, and winning for oin* workei-s in the leading towns a kindly welcome and an open door. 6. God has given us an invaluable Superintendent, a man of God, who thoroughly understands the field and has labored in it for ten years, who is in perfect sympathy with aU the principles of our work, who stands in the kindest relationship with other Societies and missionaries, who has the confidence and love of our missionaries, and who has, also, an intelligent and large-hearted view of the whole neighboring field, and is able to give a most necessary and valuable ojiprsight of all our work in India. v. And God has given us as the nucleus of our future vfork a most blessed band of missionaries, men and women of entire consecration, zeal, faith and power in the Holy Ghost, and whose spirit of unity and devotion must exercise a great and permanent influence on all others who may join them, and upon all other missionaries who come in con- tact with them. i--^s^-L ' "*£ ^^^~K.e^iJi.^'^%1■;:;i(i,,^i^^^|^^:^^ _L. (';•,! M f 272 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSLONARY LANDS. What are some of the results that we trust havf5 hoeii gained for our work hy these five weeks in India ? 1. We liave gained a conception and realization of the field, the woik and its needs, which nothing else (;ould give, and we trust to be able to reproduce it upon the minds and hearts of our ])eople at home. 2. We have found room to place in India as many more missionaries as we can wish to send for the next two or three years, at least. 3. We have been able to settle nmtually and in perfect harmony the methods and principles of the work with re- .-pect to all the unsettled points, relating to the distribution of the workers, the erecting of new buildings, and the re- ception and training of the missionaries in the field. 4. Our missionaries on the field have received a mighty inspiration for their work, in the blessed Convention we have been able to hold together. 5. We have learned very much of the best methods and results of mission work by our visits to the other Missions. G. Our work has been brought into very blessed relation and the most affectionate fellowship with all the ^ ighboring Missions and with some of the best Missions in other parts of India. Y. Through Mr. Fuller's visits along with us, he and our missionaries in India have come into touch with several other Missions among the most advanced and successful in India, and the relationship thus formed will be of the greatest value to our work in India, and, we trust, not without correspond- ing blessing to these Societies and workers. \ ' LANDS. rust liave Iw'eii (lia ? ilizution of tlie E?lso could give, the minds and as many more le next two or ' and in perfect work with ra- the distribution, gs, and the re- i field. ■civcd a mighty rention wo have- (st methods and ;her Missions, blessed relation the m ighboring n other parts of us, he and our ith several other :essful in India, e greatest value out correspond- LEAVING INDIA. 273 8. We trust that our simple messages to the native Chris- tians, the heathen, the various theological si uools addressed, and the companies of missionaries we have met, have not been without fruit, and we have nuicli cause to believe tiiat many have been stimulated to holier, stronger service for Christ and India. 9. Besides our work in Berar, God has shown us, we be- lieve, some new fields for the extension of our work in Cen- tral and Western India, where hundreds of laboiers, starting from our common centre, can occupy new and unoccupied ground in two new languages for Christ. 10. And more precious, perliaps, than any other purpose that He has been pleased to lay upoii our heart. Ho has, we believe, shown us a door to Thibet, for the evangelization of which our Alliance was originally formed. So that if we had seen nothing else come out of our long journey, we have been amply repaid for the 17,000 miles of travel we have already had over land and sea, by the blessed results which we trust are to come for dear India. And now, India, dear old India, for the present — fare well. Thou art ever lying a living picture, with thy hun- dreds of thousands of Christless villages, upon our heart. God engrave thee upon the heart of His dear people, and some day lot us see thee covered with the light and glory of the Gospel, and crowned with the harvests, whose early seeds we have humbly helped to sow ! XVI. CALCUTTA TO BURMAH. IT WOULD not have been for our highest good if we had been permitted to leave India, after five weeks of unin- terrupted blessing, without some trial of our faith and patience. And so, when we reached Calcutta, and prepared to embark for Burmah, we found that our trunk, and also a valuable parcel, which we had left to be shipped at Bombay so as to meet us in Calcutta, were not to be found. On mak- ing inquiry we found that they had been shipped from Bom- bay by a freight train and might not arrive for a week or two. This was somewhat serious, as we were now on our way, "by rapid stages, by a number of different steamship lines, and it would be hard for our baggage to overtake us. But we felt that it was, doubtless, one of our Father's ways of proving His all-sufficient grace to us, and giving us some new testi- mony for Him. And so we drove to the freight office and asked the company to telegraph for it, and have it sent on by a passenger train if it could be found, and forwarded after us by the next steamer to Rangoon in the hope that it would overtake us during the four days we were to wait there. And so we went to the bazaars and got a few necessary arti- cles of apparel, and went on, minus our baggage. 374 J— CALCUTTA TO BURMAH. 275 st good if we hact re weeks of iinin- of our faith aud itta, and prepared trunk, and also a lipped at Bombay found. On mak- lipped from Bom- for a week or two. } now on our way, oamship lines, and :e us. But we felt 3 ways of proving 18 some new testi- freight office and have it sent on by forwarded after us ope that it would Bre to wait there, few necessary arti- iggage. The next steamer came in while we were waiting at Ran- goon, but our things wore not on board, but a dispatch came instead, telling us that they would be on the next boat, nearly a week later, and would be sent on to Singapore. It seems l)robable that we shall have to leave Singai)ore before that steamer can arrive, and so the ])rosent prospects are that we may not receive our trunk before we reach Hong Kong or Shanghai, nearly a month hence. But, with perhaps a little lonely feeling, we just trusted our Father again with it all, and felt that He would take care of it. And as we told the little story of our trial and our Master's grace for it, wo found that it did the missionaries more good than anything else we said ; for it is in just these little things that our faith and love and joy break down. And we are glad to be permitted to triumph even in this. It may seem a small thing at home to lose a trunk, but 15,000 miles away it is like the loss of a companion ; and, besides, it is not always easy, in these circumstances, to get the things you need in native bazaars. But the dear Lord has arranged everything, and in due time we shall, doubtless, meet our old companion, and, no doubt, get many blessings out of it all. Our reason for taking the route from Calcutta to Singa- pore was that we might have the opportunity of visiting Bur- mah, and seeing a little of the wonderful work which God has wrought among the people of that land through the American Baptist Mission. We took passage on the "Pentakota," of the British India Steamship line. We had a nice and a good captain, 376 LAPcnn outlooks o.v MfssroN a /.n- /..txns. but some very frivolous passengers on board, like too many of tbo English and Americans that wo meet abroad. Tho only themes of conversation were races, dances, dresses, and lotteries ; and we felt more truly alone than among the heathen. Our Sabbath was si>ent lying at anchor at the mouth of the Hooghly Kiver, waiting for the tide to take us over the dangerous sands, but there was no reUgious service or recognition of God, and we found our way to the "little sanctuary" which He has promised to be to us in far-off lands, and there we met with Him and the divir ones at home, and had .. peaceful and blessed day. The navigation of this river is very dangerous. There is an immense amount of sand carried down the stream, and bars and quicksands are always forming, so that pilots have to be most careful in entering and leaving tho port of Cal- cutta There is one point where vessels have been known to strike the bar, and then be swept over by the strong current, and Pink in the quicksands, disappearing utterly m a few minutes. , . ., au We got safely out to sea, and after two days sail on the Ba> of Bengal, which was smooth and pleasant, ^^e cast anchor iu the mouth of the Irrawaddy, and again waited for the tide to take us up to Rangoon. This was also providen- tially arranged, and on AVednesday morning, a little after sun- rise, we sailed up to the landing jetty of the capital of Bur- The view of Rangoon from the river is very attractive. A good deal of luxuriant foliage and many fine buildings line )■ L.'ixns. CALCUTTA TO nrRMAIt. 277 il, liko too many ut't ahrojul. The ices, dresses, and than among the at anchor at the le tide to take us ► religious service way to the "Uttlo J to us in far-off the dear ones at hvngerous. There n the stream, and a that pilots have ; the port of Cal- Lve been known to ;he strong current, ; utterly in a few o days' sail on the pleasant, "vv^e cast d again waited for was also providen- g, a little after sun- :he capital of Bur- very attractive, A r fine buildings line the river for two or three miles, and, in the backgiound, immbers uf Burmese pagodas, with that jjeculiar and striking form that you see nowhere else, giv»; the whole scene a most ])i(;tures(iuu appearance. Kangoon is a largt^ commercial city of over It »i»,()00 inhabitants, and is full of Fnglish merchants and stores, and has a more English appearance than any RANQOON. other city we have seen in the East. The streets are very wide, the buildings large and far apart, and there is an ai)i)ear- iince of great spaciousness and considerable style. Burmah is now a province of the Indian Empire-, and has a population of about eight millions, including I' pper Bur- mah and the other dependencies. Our readers will i-emem- ber that a few years ago the ruler of Upper Burm.ih, old 278 r .1RGF.K OCTLOOKS OX MfSSrOXAKY LANDS. Thebau, hccatim ho outrageous that England sent an army, captun'tl Mandalay, hist cai»ital, and annexed liis territory. He is now a royal prisoner in Katnagary, a British tort south of Bombay. Ho was a modern Herod, and when he came to the throne he killed all his relatives. They tell strange stories of his brutality. His wife, however, seems to have been the nding spirit, and the Jezebel and instigator of his crimes. They tell a grim story of her : that while she was confined —a state i)risoner in Madras, a nunvber of people wont to see her, as a public curiosity. Among them were some ladies who laughed very heartily at some things she said and did. This so annoyed her Majesty that she siunmoned the oflicer of the prison, and said very excitedly to him : "Take those women out and cut their heads ott'." This was, evidently, her old way of settling annoying people, and she could not see why the English authorities should object to it. Burmah is a rich countiy, and is (piite distinct frotn India in many of its features. It is, largely, a rice producing country. They call the raw grain " paddy," and tb.wi hie delta of the Irrawaddy is one immense "paddy iicld." In the wet season the whoU- land is flooded, and the people travel about on elevated roads, which are built about four feet above the ground. As soon as the ground is wet enough, they turn in with their buff aloes and rude plows, and work up the mud. about three feet deei), and ihey then j)lant the rice in these mud fields, and the water remains till it ripens, and then dries up and allows them 'o harvest it. Wo went out into the country and saw these paddy fields. It was the dry y f.ANDS. soiit Jill army, d bin U'lritory. ritisli fort Houtli i^lu'U ho camo to II strange stories havo been the r of his crimes, le was conflned people went to kvere some ladies le said and did. oned the officer : "Take those 1 was, evidently, d she could not t to it. itinct from India rico producing " and th(- whole »addy ueld." In and the people built about four id is wet enough, iws, and work up lMi plant the rico ill it ripens, and ■,. W«? went out It was the dry cAi.crrrA rn m rmaii. 279 Btmson and the rico had all been harvested, and the land was one plain of cracked and dusty clay. The houses are all built on posts about foui- feet above the ground, so as to escape the inundation. Burmah is, nlso, a groat timber country, and the teak tree grows here in its perfection. It is a most valuable and ELEPHANTS MOVING LUMBeR IN BURMAH. beautiful wood, hard and enduring as oak, and coloring fine- ly to the tint of black walnut. We have never seen prettier wood carvings than the natural teak wood after it has sea- soned They do not even oil it, but it grows nearly as black as ebony and it lasts for centuries. The inside woodwork of their houses is very pretty in simple teak wood. The trees lii lUm Ji ''i^ 280 LARGER OrTLOOk'S ON MISSIONARY LANDS. of Burmah are much larger than in India, and the vegetation looks more luxuriant. The rai)is come a month earlier, and the liot season is sliorter and more moderate. As we sailed up the river, the native boats were very- pretty. They have a very picturesque shape, with a high, ])ointed prow, like the point of a Turkish slipper, and the stern is round and nicely carved. T li e hoats are about the shape of a mason's trow- el, with the point raised very high. The boatman stands and rows hy push- ing his oars and propelling the boat in front of him. We found ourselves at once among a new race. These were not Hindu faces. They are much I'ounder and flatter, and have a distinct Mongolian touch. Many of them are quito •^ood-looking. They are much better dressed than the HinduSo The men and women dress very much alike. There is a very bright and pi-etty skirt, usually of brilliant checked A BURMESE BOAT. LANDS. CALCUTTA TO PARMAH. 281 the vegetation til earlier, and its were very , with a high, pper, and the r race. These ler and flatter, f of them are essed than the 1 alike. There ■illiant checked or tartan cloth or silk, tied around tlu^ waist and reaching to the feet, and, over this, a jacket, usually white ; the head dress is a pretty hand of pink or scarlet tied around the brow and hanging loosely behind. Their dress is quite picturesque, and at least decent, winch people have a Hh^B^^HI^I W^^^^\ inde- pendent and ^^H|P^|3|^|^B ^^^P^^'^^^^' ^^'^^' There none ^^^^pi^^B^HH| <>f the appear- pov- HHB^^^^^^l ^^'^^' ^^"^^ caste here, and |^^i^^fl^^B| "" lower o r- more' money HH^^H^^H ^^^^'^' "'^'^^^^ ^^'^ or three other H^B^^BI^^^H ^^^^'^ "^ ^^^^' m a h — t h e Hf^^^^^^^^^H ^^^'^"^' ^ ^^ ^ eral others, H^^PJH^M^^B who are abo- riginal people, * ^"■'""^^ '^°^- somewhat like our Indians, and like the hill tribes of India, and on these the Burmans look down, and formerly i)ersecuted them. The Karens number over half a million, and the other tribes about half as many. It is among these aboriginal tribes, as we &,,-.^- — ^■1 BBH LARGER OVTI.OOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. shall immediately see, that the Gospel has achieved its grand- est triumphs. 'rhe Burmese are Buddhists. At once one is impressed with the entirely different character of their religious woi- ship and buildings. Here you see none of the hideous and disgusting found in temple, but there is but peated in ten forms and marble, a la- brass and ways the harmless, tured, rather little like a who is won- er she is a girl It is old Gua Burman Bud- has no other tion ho certainly is decent and harmless, a great improve- ment on the l)estial and devilish forms of the Hindu temples. Everywhere he is enshrined in fine pagodas, and both he and the pagodas worshipped devoutly. These pagodas are not temples, but monuments and shrines to Guatama. An image of him is at the base of each pagoda ; indeed, usually a A BURMESE WOMAN. idols to be every Hindu every where one face re thousand place s -i n baster, wood, gold, but al- same quiet, g o o d - n a- insipid face, a dreamy girl deringwheth- or a woman, tarn a, the dim, and if he recommenda- •-•''*4si hXDS. id its grand- s impressed 'ligious wor- hideous and lols to be vevy Hindu very where ne face re h o u 8 a 11 d lace s— in aster, wood, old, but al- amo quiet, ; o o d - n a- asipid face, a reamy g i i' 1 eringwheth- r a woman, a ma, the [ha, and if he ecommenda- ;at impx'ove- ndu temples, and both he pagodas am latama. An )ed, usually a ■f f*}|!M^SSi«g^fe¥SS*^WKieg»S«ii«SS»t^^!«»a»^'-i^^ t.jSt/fegg^vrgin^l^ya'; CALCUTTA TO BURMAH. 283 DISTANT VIEW OF SHWEE-DA-OONE PAGODA. great number of images. Some of them are of immense size and finely carved. The pagodas are often very fine. The great one near Rangoon known as Shwee-da-gone, is over three hundred ^'eet high, and jnore than one hundred feet in diameter at the base. Tlie sbape would be very hard to "''''wwi!^ aSjM!teHMt^"'^*^^ '^y^^sa^8^^'SBg^^ss^at^fa; o o D CALCUTTA TO BUR M AH. 287 have, evidently, touched tlu* Jewish people at some point in their history. They liad, also, a tradition that some day- teachers were !<' come to them from the West, and so, when the missionaries canu) to them from Western lands, many ac- cepted the Gospel, and whole villages, in many instances, embraced Christianity. It was a great pleasun^ to be permitted to visit this inter- esting Mission. More tlsa;. one Imndred American Mission- aries, including ladies, mc i.itoring in Burmah, and over two hundred native preachers. We si)ent nearly five days among them, and had the privilege of meeting no less than thirty- seven of the American Baptist missionaries, besides a number of workers in other Societies, and a few of the native preach- ers. We were invited to address a number of meetings among the missionaries, and found a deep spiritual hunger and an earnest longing for more of that blessing which God is pouring out upon the Telugu Mission through the Holy Ghost. We could not have been more cordially received by our own workers than we were by these dear friends. Several of them we had known in America, and there were not a few whom God has been calling for a good while very near to Himself, and fitting by a special anointing for great useful- ness. We were the guest of Prof. Gilmore, son of a very dear friend in the ministry in the United States ; and he and bis beloved wife and baby made our stay a real taste of home. A number of the workers came in from Maulmain, Bassein and other points. The season was a little unfavorable, being 1""^ '% u m ags'- ' fej^^jfe'^-j^!^'-''''''** ' '''* 288 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. the vacation time in all the schools ; but we saw most of tho teachers and school premises, and got a very good conception of this part of the work. Our most interesting experience, and one which our friends planned for us with special thoughtf ulness, was a visit to a Karen village in the country. Riding out by train to the station of Mhawbee, v.'e were met by the Karens with their carts, and driven across the paddy fields to their villages in the jungle, where we spent a day and a night, and saw them in all the simplicity of their native home. The good pastor gave up his house to us, and wo just took possession, bringing our own provisions and cook, and making ourselves at home. Every missionary in India, who travels in the jungle and goes out itinerating, has a serv^ant who is accustomed to this sort of cooking. And you would have been surprised at the nice dinner and breakfast our "boy" gave us. G e one of these natives a little rice, a chicken and a few spl^e/.,..a,nd it is amazing how many dishes he will \ o you. KAREN GIRLS. ■ .AMDS. CALCUTTA TO BURMAH. 289 w most of the 3od conceptioa lie which our ess, was a visit k^illage ill the 3g out by train of Mhawbee, by the Karens ;s, and driven ,ddy fields to in the jungle, nt a day and a them in all the their native lastor gave up s, and wo just 1, bringing our , and cook, and Ives at home, lary in India, the jungle and istomed to this urprised at the s. G e one of ^ splv.e:f.,..a,ndit ou. After breakfast we were met in the chapel where the people had assembled to greet us. There was a congregation of over seventy, notwithstanding the short notice. We, of course, were invited to preach to them, and we did, the best we could, through a native interpreter. We have found that the only way to reach these people is to give them simple illustrations. They hstened .ery attentively, and when we . ,ot through, they came up, one by one, and began to respond. One after another they would squat down, Indian fashion, in front of us, and looking up into our face like very children would talk out all that was in their heart. Oue of their preachers made quite a speech, asking us to thank the American Christians for sending them the Gospel, and saying how poor and weak they yet were as Christians, and not able to understand all the deep things of God. This was one of his simple illustrations : "One hen," he said, "can cover ten chickens with her wings, but ten chickens cannot cover as much as one hen. We are the ten chickens,, the American Church is the hen." Several of them brought us money, but, of com .% we handed it over, with a little added to it, as a contribution towards the new chapel they are about to erect. After the meeting wo had some hours of leisure, and walked through their jungle and a neighboring village. The men and women all smoke, and we got some of the girls to f sent us two or three of their cigars as specimens. They ^.i made of corn husks, very thick and large, and many of them a fo-'HUong. What would you think of your 290 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS, young lady friend taking from her mouth something like a small stick of timber, and then deliberately sending in your face an immense cloud of tobacco smoke ? Well, at least they are consistent in letting the women smoke, for if it is good for the one sex it is surely as good for the other. They only laughed merrily when some of us attempted to raise the ques- tion of the right and wrong of smoking. They had not got this far yet. Later, we visited the neighboring Burman village. It was a long, winding "^treet, with houses on both sides, and about three dogs to a house ; and as we passed along, these wolfish-looking dogs watched their chance, on each side, to dash at us with a yell and a snap, and only the vigorous use of some stout bamboo rods kept us from their teet^. In pro- portion to the density of its heathenism, we found, is the number, the meanness and the manginess of tb« dogs a Burman village possesses. The native pastor of the Karen village went with us around the country villages. We found him a very remark- able man. He is the pastor of a church of three hundred members in this and several other Karen villages in the vicin- ity. During the past year he has baptized one hui ired and twenty persons, and is to baptize thirty more next Sabbath evening. The American missionary who superintends the Karen work in the Rangoon District was along with us, but he has one hundred churches and six thousand members to oversee, and he can only give a general supervision, and has to trust all the details to these men. Such native pastors are ' LANDS. totnething like a sending in your /"ell, at least they for if it is good ther. They only to raise the ques- hey had not got man village. It both sides, and ssed along, these on each side, to the vigorous use r teef^. In pro- ive found, is the s of tb" dogs a e went with us J a very I'eniark- »f three hundred iges in the vicin- me hui ired and re next Sabbath mperintends the mg with us, but md members to jrvision, and has ative pastors are CALCUTTA TO BUR M AH. 291 of great value, and they have been the chief instruments in the, great work which God has done among the Karens. We slept that night in the jungle, and heard the "tok- ter" calling near our bed through the night, with his loud call, " tok-ter." He is a great lizard, morq than a foot long, with a voice louder than that of a frog. But we let him call, for they told us he kept away the snakes, and there are some of them in Burmah's jungles. But we slept in peace, and awoke in safety, to find men and women, indiscriminately, walking in and out of our room in perfect innocence of the fact that we had to make our toilet. We looked out on the village street, and the men and women, indiscriminately, were taking their morning bath. They did it in the most in- genious way. A woman would take a pail of water from the well, and with her thin fold of cotton around her, would pom* i^ ovp>^ her head, again and again, and then she would dex- tvii. \j slip a dry robe over her head, and let the old wet one drop off, under the other, and she was dressed for the day— no need of towels or looking-glass. And another would come along and take n similar douche, and the dirty water would iust soak down and back into the well again, and the dear pe. pie would draw it up in buckets and drink it ; as in- nocent, as a babe just born, of all our modern notions about sewers and filters and civilized sensitiveness. The good native pastor could not understand < n<' use of the filter we brought with us. He thought it was it of drinking cup. We found one very pure and rein -,hing drinking cup about which we need have no qualms. It was 393 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LAND^ the great bunch of cocoanuts the good people brough'j us, just ready to pour out their crystal draught of aci^-ulous water. Upon the whole we greatly enjoyed our Karen visit, and felt we had a glimpse of primitive life that few visitors to Burmah or India ever get. Above all, we saw, with all its simplicity and crudeness, what God is able to do for heathen souls, and in it we beheld the promise of the harvest which is surely coming to our own field. Judson labored six years in Burmah before he saw the first convert, and, to-day, there are tens of thousands. Praise the Lord for what we yet hope to see ! On our return to Rangoon, we had the pleasure of meet- ing, at lunch, the president of the Karen Theological Semi- nary, and also his excellent and accomphshed wife. He told us that ho had one hundred students in training for the min- istry, and a graduating class of nearly twenty. This is the best hope of the Karen churches. We also visited the yet unfinished Memorial Hall, which the Karens are erecting at their own expense, as a monument of God's goodness to their people. It is one story high, as yet, and covers a large area, and when completed will be one of the most striking missionary buildings in the world. Their means are hmited, but their hearts are large, and, we trust, they mry soon be able to complete this most interest- ing memorial. Many American friends will be glad to know that God is greatly blessing and using our dear sisters. Miss Ranney and Miss Phinney, whom many of our people will remember ^'^u^i^: .ANDS. CALCUTTA TO BVRMAH. 293 I brought us. of aciaulous r Karon visit, it few visitors w, with all its lo for heathen liar vest which ored six years , to-day, there it we yet hope asure of meet- lological Semi- .vife. He told g for the min- yT. This is the al Hall, which s a monument story high, as ted will be one in the world, large, and, we most interest- meeting at Round Lake and the New York ' Tabernacle, besides many others whom we should be glad to name if it were proper. But we must leave Rangoon and Burmah. God bless this land and this .vork ! Here, too, wo have placed " the sole of our foot," and c'iaimed it for Christ and His coming. Our Baptist friends have nobly pieempted it and very fairiy occupied it. At least, we believe that ere long they will occupy the entire field, and it would seem to be a pity to divide the thougJit of these simple people, who know nothing of sectarianism, by sending any rival churcli there. But there is need, even iu Burmah, for one hundred more mis- sionaries. May God r.;)eedily send them from the Baptist churches of America to ihe unoccupied villages of Burmah ! It was very hot in Burmah -a real taste of tropical sum- mer. And it was a relief to stand onco more on tlie cool deck of the "Pentakota" r.nd cai! down the coast of Arracan in tlie face of the old Southern Cross, and toward the shores of Sumatra and Singapore. 3W that God is ss Ranney and vill remember ■iKm9m!(^ifitji^^yn^!SmimuiKid Km XVII. AMONG THE MALAYS. i r. YC THING could have been more delightful, so far as '^ physicTil conditions are concerned, than the sail down th .' Bay of Bengal, from Rangoon to Singapore. It occupied seven days, and followed the coast of Burmah, Tanasserim and the Peninsula of Malacca. The weather was extremely pleasant, with a hot sun, but a delightful breeze night and day. We had few passengers and plenty of v om, and lived on deck both night and day, only going down to the cabin long enough to take our meals. At night the steward made our beds on deck and we slept in the cool breezes until he brought us our " chotahazry," or cup of tea, at G A. M., and awoke us for our salu water bath and simple toilet. We were able to do unbounded literary work through the long hours of the breezy day, and to conic somewhat near overtaking an enormous mass of accumulated correspond- ence and other writing. It certainly was not a pleasure sail, although a very pleasant one, and, like all our other days abroad, we asked the Lord to let these days, which He made so calm and still, count the very utmost for His work and kingdom. \. AMONC THE M.U.A VS. 295 tful, so far as t the sail down Singapore. It t of Burmah, The weather t a delightful 5rs and plenty ly, only going als. At night ipt in the cool or cup of tea, ith and simple work through omewhat near 3d correspond- a pleasure sail, ur other days hich He made His work and As we got farther south, and nearer the equator, the Pole Star sank lower and lower, until at last, a good while before we got to Singapore, it disappeared altogether, and, at the other side of the heavens, the Southern Cross rose higher and higher toward the zenith with a great train of glorious new constellations behind it, making the midnight sky a galaxy of glory. t ^ 1 The climate underwent the most marked change. Instead of the long dry season of India, we soon sailed into the zone of showers. Every night the horizon would be illuminated by brilliant lightnings, and nearly every day there would be rain, frequent and heavy, although short showers, much like our American summer thunder storms. Along the equator it rains all the year round, and the hottest day is almost sure to be cooled by a few hours of moisture. In consequence of this the vegetation is most luxuriant, and every island and shore was wooded to the water's edge and rich with glorious forests and flowers. Animal life, too, began to grow exuberant. Our cabins swarmed with red ants, and they walked over us at all hours of the day and night without asking leave before they lunched off us. Their bite is not as bad as that of the mosquito, but it is not a tropical luxury. One morning we found a colony of them in one of our pockets whei-e something edible had attracted them. Occasionally, one would hear a female scream, and the disturbing cause would usually prove to be a great, and, perhaps, hitherto unknown species of cock- roach or beetle. Our good-natured Scotch cp.ptain told us B HiaMuawt'-t ■■ ■ ' ims^ s ^sm^ii^isiiXiui^mimiiiiii^ NEAR MALACCA. that his cockroaches swarmed Sundays and Wednesdays, and then came out of the recesses of the sliip to exhibit. We are afraid, however, that ours did not always keep regular hours. 'i^ttjjk'-" i;'. 1 Wednesdays, o exhibit. We rs keep regular ,IA/0\(' THE MALAYS. 297 Oil our way down tlir l».iy w«' jtassed far to the west the Andaman Ishiuds, which form the Penal Colony of India, and where the worse criminals are transported for life. The natives of these islands are said to he the most degraded type of human beings on the face of the globe, and nnich lower i'veii than the aborigines of Australia. We stopped a day at the Island of Penang, which is an English Colony and part of the Straits Settlements. We had time to land at the pretty city of Georgetown and send off about fifty letters by the India and English mail, just leaving. Then, in the afterno^n, we took a jinriksha and rode out several mil(^8 through avenues and forests of palms to the B(jtanical (lar- dens and the waterfall which comes down from a mountain about 2,500 feet high. We found ourselves not only in a new- British Colony, but surrounded by new- laces. The Chi- nese were everywhere and the Malays now began to appear. We will not stop to speak of the beauty of the ride or the Gardens, (>xcept to observe that it was a scene, all the way, of tropical luxuriance. The grass grows here as, of course, it cannot in India, especially in the dry season ; and the ground was one rich carpet of verdure covered with a luxuri- ance of palms, banyans, plantains, and many etpially beauti- ful trees covered with orchids and other parasites in profu- sion, and, often, richest bloom. The Gardens, with the orchida and fern houses, must be seen to be realized. Many beautiful islands surround Penang, and the city is most picturesque as seen on entering and leaving. We reached Singapore two days later, and here found \ f iimsmmfsmMmm . T} u.$ S B),^mM*m!»jm--mfAh'^,-^» ,K- KviKmrn- -' ' •-."fi'r J 298 LARGER Ol TLOOKS OX MfSSIONARy LANDS. IN THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. ourselves in tli metropolis of English Malaysia, and all that we could say u. other poi its can be still more truly said of LANDS. '|;^ , lia, and all i at re truly s;i of Jtm "^ .iMox(.- ri:i: .u.i/.ns. 299 this. The appronch through the "NewHarhor" is exceed- ingly pretty. The straitH are (piite naiiow, and many beauti- ful and tliickly wooded islands dot the lovely harbor, while ships of all nati .us, . iid war vessels hearing many different 'flags, lie at anchor in tlu quiet waters. We were met at the wharf by our dear hrother, Mr. Lela- cheur, and were glad to find him looking exceedingly well after a year of heavy pressure both in toil antl suffering. Most of our readers know that, accompanied hy M ' . Anderson, he came out to Hong Kong and Singapore f(« th. nurpose of finding an ni)i)r()ach to one of the group of islands in the South Seas, vvheri! God seemed to be leading us to attempt to plant a Mission, tiie island of Yai», th«^ most western of the Caroline Islands. After reaching Singapore it was found (hat Mr. Ander- son had left New York, without the knowledge of the Board, in a somewhat advanced stag*? of consiunption. In this damp climate it developed very rapidly, and Mr. Lelacheur found himself under the necessity of devoting nnich of his time to the care of his suffering hrothei-, and deferring his journey to the Islands until this great responsibility should, in some way, be relieved. Meanwhile, however, ho gave as much time as possible to the study of the Malay language, and with so much success, that, already, even at his age, our brother can speak it fairly, and has already given some ,1 J. :-es to the natives. . few weeks ago Mr. Anderson's illness terminated in hh> u.;ath, and Mr. Lelacheur had the satisfaction of know- 300 I. AUGER OUJ LOOK'S OX MfSSIONARY f.ANDS. ing— a satisfaction in which wo all deeply shar*' -that noth- ing was n('jj;lerte(l that fis necessary t<» the comfort of our dear young hrother. During our stay in Snigapore, we visited Richaid Anderson's grave in the English cemetery, and took a few leaves from thohorder of ])retty flowers grow- ing around it ; and we gave orders for the erection of a sim- ple stone to mark the sacred spot where another precious life is laid on tlie great altar of Moriah, as the phulge of another land for God, through our dear Alliance. Many such graves are already on the Congo, and many in the dark Soudan. Surely there niust be a mighty harvest from such a costly sowing. Two moic are on the Yang-tse River ; one lies in loneliness at Kobe, in Jajjan ; one sleeps in btnvutiful Poona ; one, beneath the ])alms of Singapore, claims the Malay Peninsula for Jesus. Dear young Richard Anderson was worthy to be a mis- sionary martyr. He was a bright and earnest young Scotch- Irish lad, whose call we remember v/ell. He had begun to succeed la his httle business in New York, when the Lord came to him and asked for all his heart, and then called him to be a missionary. A few of us knew how much he sacri- ficed to be able to affoi i to attend the College ; and when it was found out that he was living in a cold and cheerless room, and doing without the necessaries of life that he might gain his object, it was no longer allowed, but measures were taken for his assistance. He gave a very bright, and, indeed, brilliant address at the College Commencement in May, just a year ago, and was selected by the unanimous ^ AMONG THE M 'AYS. 301 r i.ANns. are— that noth- comfoit of our Sinj^apore, we iiglisli cometory, ty flovvtu-a grow- roction of a sirn- her precious life Itulgo of another any such graves 10 (lark Soudan, ni such a costly vor ; (juo lies in eautiful Poena ; inis the Malay •thy to ho a rais- 3t young Scotch- [e had hegun to , wheii the Lord then called him ' much he sacri- ge ; and when it id and cheerless fe that he might d, but measures '^ery bright, and, mmencement in the unanimous vote of his fellow students for this honor. A good deal was expected from his bright, young mind, his heroic and en- thusiastic spirit, his deep piety and (Consecration, and his stirring faith in Ood. But (Jod calls some to the plow and some to the altar. The motto of the Knglish Baptist Mis- sionary Society is an ox standing between an altar and a plow, with the words inscribed on a scroll, "Ready for either or both." Before he passed away, Richard Anderson said to his brother and companion that ho believ(ed that (Jod had re- ceived from his life all the service for which He had called him ; and, although he could not understand all His deahngs with him, he could fully trust. The only mistake he made, it seems to us all, was in not frankly telling us his actual condition of health before he al- lowed us to send him away to such a cUmate. Had we known it we should not have sent him. Another case came before us at the same time that he was appointed,— a lady who de- sired to go to India but was physically unfit to go. She desired, however, to trust the Lord for her healing, and she was accepted on condition that she should be actually healed, and be really in a condition to go before the time came. She was in a far worse condition than our broOier, but she took the Lord for it, and months before she needed to snil she was thoroughly healed, and is now one of our healthiest, happiest, and most promising missionaries in India. We trust that our candidates will always be perfectly frank with us, and enable us to counsel and help them, and avoid all needless risks. g'7-ji i^»'p^-i»*^ --*■., 5 «.-^4?rtl M ^ .i j' j ar . ' !.' gr*! ?r:Pivy yyw' f y i.k ■ ■ ' jj-u^« t i'(M-"jg<]^ ' i^*J4 '* y.*»H' !i g. ' ^- ' y^ ' i ii!i :!!! 302 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSLONARY LAND^ We know that Mr. Anderson was perfectly sincere and can did in his purpose. He really meant that, trustinj^ God for his healing, he should not recognize the disease or symptoms. It is true that we should steadily believe above our symptoms, but it is also true that these symptoms should be actually re- moved before we go to the field, and will be if we steadfastly trust God. Faith in God is not only a " make believe," but it also brings direct and definite results, and if God wants us for a field He will surely give us the strength to go in such a sense and measure as t(» satisfy every reasonable inquirer. We spent three very pleasant days in Singapore, and saw a good deal of the city, the people, the Christian and mission- ary work of the country and, above all, the needs of the field and the work to which the Lord is calhng us theie. The first day was a Sabbath, and we were permitted to preach in the Presbyterian and Methodist Episcopal Chapels, and on Monday evening again in the latter place. The M. E. Church of America has a Mission here, chiefly educational and English, but with a work among the Chinese, and a Pub- lishing and Printing Department, which has a Malay Branch. We had the pleasure of meeting good Bishop Thoburn here, whom we had missed in Calcutta. We saw a good der.l of him, and thanked God for the wise, humble and thoroughly earn- est, practical and capable man whom they have in charge of their great work in India. It is a shame if such a church, with such a work and such a leader, does not back himself in a manner compared with which all they are doing now is but as child's play. tOtm lincere and cau rusting God for iseor symptoms. 3 om* symptoms, d be actually re- if we steadfastly ke believe," but if God wants us 1 to go in such a ible inquirer, gapore, and saw ian and mission- leeds of the field there. ere permitted to •iscopal Chapels, ace. The M. E. efly educational aese, and a Pub- a Malay Branch, p Thoburn here, ;ood der.l of him, horoughly earn- ave in charge of I such a church, back himself in ioing now is but o o ■n m z H > H O _z S > r > -< T3 m z HJUIJ.U ' l ' ilU.I'H ' V"g" AMONG THE MALA YS. 303 We also met about a dozen of the missionaries ^f the Methodist Episcopal Mission, and found them all busy for Christ. They have several fine schools, a good English con- gregation, and an excellent work among the Chinese. The brother in charge of this, Dr. Luring, has given much assist- ance to our missionaries, and is a man of rare gifts and char- acter. He is a fine scholar, knowing Sanscrit, Malay, and Chinese, besides other languages, and has the greatest sim- plicity and singleness of heart. He has already translated some of our Alliance tracts into Malay, and thus enabled Mr. Lelacheur ^o preach to the Malays with our literature. Be- sides the Presbyterian and Methodist Episcopal work, there are no other missionaries here except our own. On the following days we saw something of the city and country. Singapore is a large and flourishing commercial city, with a population of over 100,000, and an immense ship- ping trade with all the world. It is just half way round the world from New York, the difference in time being twelve hours and ten minutes. It stretches out its arms in one direction to xndia, Burmah, England and Europe-in another to Australia and the islands, Borneo, Java, Sumatra, Celebes, New Guinea, the Phihppines, and the thousands more which cover the Archipelago, with their immense trade in all tropi- cal productions ; and, in yet another direction, the trade reaches away to Hong Kong, Saigon, Bankok, Shanghai, the whole China Coast and Japan. No city in the world has such a central location as Sing- apore between East and West, as a sort of rendezvous for the i Ill* 304 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. ships of all nations. It is full of English and Scotch people, and they are merchant princes, and live in great luxury. It is full of Chinese, and their houses and stores crowd hun- dreds of streets. And it is surrounded by Malays, the real natives, of whom we shall speak shortly. There are great numbers of Hindu Coolies from Madras and Bengal. There are Dyaks from Borneo and from Celebes, and people from all the Islands. And there are a good many Germans and Dutch, who are the lords of Sumatra, Java, Celebes, and Borneo, and have much trade passing through Singapore. The climate is peculiar. Lying on or very near the equator, it has, of course, the direct rays of the sun, and a» you hold up your umbrella at noon, the shadow falls directly at your feet and covers your whole person. We did not dare to look up to see that fiery sun, which no European eye can defy with impunity. But it is not nearly so hot as Northern India, thirty degrees farther north, is in the hot season. It is seldom one hundred degrees— indeed, rarely above ninety- five in the shade. But it is always warm. There is no win- ter, autumn or spring, but one everlasting monotony of heat, just like our July weather continued forever. And then it is moist heat— we would call it sweltering weather. The air is saturated with vapor. It rains almost every day, and you are in a steam bath all the time. We do not remember an hour in Singapore when we were not in a profuse perspi- ration. The rainfall is between sixty and seventy inches a year, and in Berar, only between thi-ty and forty, notwith- standing the heavy Monsoon rains in the lattei place. Such. V LANDS. id Scotch people, ;reat luxury. It )res crowd hun- Malays, the real There are great Bengal. There md people from ly Germans and a, Celebes, and ;h Singapore, very near the the sun, and as ow tails directly We did not dare iropean eye can. hot as Northern hot season. It. y above ninety- riiere i» no win- >notony of heat, And then it is her. The air is Y day, and you 3t remember an profuse perspi- eventy inches a forty, notwith- Bi place. Such •~.u.»i*«».»^»«*'=^ ; . imauw wwwgg ^Tgi.iiaf.'v a < Z CO IT UJ -I Ul > < AMOXG THE MAL^. VS. 305 a climate produces glorious vegetation, but involves a heavy strain upon human life. Cholera and small- pox are frequent visitors, and the former v^as very bad at the time of our visit, and we had to take the Lord to guard us from its breath. It had just car- ried off the leading judge of the island, and we saw two graves in the English cemetery where a husband and wife had lain down within a few days of each other. Dear Brother Lelacheui had a fierce attack of it while worn with waiting on Mr. Anderson, and only the power of God carried him through the great struggle. And yet Singapore is not an ex- ceptionally unhealthy place, and, as compared with any oriental city we have seen, it has some peculiar attractions. The drive to the Botanical Gardens was very pleasant! Perhaps nowhere in the world is there to be found such a col- lection of tropical vegetation in its own native soil. Here they are all classified and named and can be studied at leis- ure. For example, in one section there is a group of all the varieties of palms. Our readers w ould scarcely realize that of these alone there were more than a scoix* wholly distinct. We had alreaiy become familiar with the date palm, the cocoanut palm, and the Palmyra palm ; but here were many new ones. For example, we saw, for the first time, the *' Travellers Palm," the most beautiful object ni a tropical garden. It is just an immense fan, the handle growing up about twenty or thirty feet, and then the branches spreading out flat, like a great fan, often twenty feet in diameter, and beautifiil beyond description. The leaves form a lot of little _ii»o"jffi>K?it}:a!}a; I 306 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. cups, and are always found full of water, so that ^''e tired and thirsty iwlgrini always rejoices when lie hees a 'i .reveller's Palm. Then the Sago Palm is not only most beautiful but in- valuable. They cut it down and split it open, and make out of the pith and fibre a nourishing and delicious article of food. A single tree will produce sago enough to feed a man a year. There is another palm whose stems are of the most brilliant crimson, with leaves of green, and it is a most picturesque object. Many of the trees are covered with orchids. They climb and creep over the tree in every direction, and hang with the most lovely blossoms. A visit to the orchid house in the Gar- dens revealed hundreds of varieties. They have a strange peculiarity in Singapore. All the orchids of a certain variety bloom on the same day. The day of our arrival we saw great quantities of a beautiful white blossom shaped just like a white dove. Our friend told us it was the " Pigeon Orchid," and every one of them on Singapore Island was blooming to- day, and to-morrow there would not be one to be seen, — until, perhaps, two months later, when the next blooming day would come, and so on all the year around. Then, he said, in Java all the orchids of a certain kind would have their day of bloom, and so, all over the Archipelago, on every island, they had different days to bloom, and then the forests would be hanging with their bright streamers and festoons. There was no end to the niaf2;nificent ferns, the leaves of some of them being nearly two yards long. Indeed, days Si^l'^li^iaa L RV LANDS. SO that *'ie tired e sees a '1/'- seller's , beautiful but in- en, and make out ous article of food. Peed a man a year, the most brilliant , most picturesque ;hids. They cUmb and hang with the I house in the Gar- ey have a strange 3f a certain variety rrival we saw great shaped just like a i "Pigeon Orchid," i was blooming to- one to be seen, — next blooming day id. Then, he said, )uld have their day JO, on every island, 1 the forests would d festoons, ferns, the leaves of ong. Indeed, days A.VO.\'(; Tin: MALAYS. 307 might have been spent in studying the curious and beautiful works of God in this rich clime. In one corner of the Gar- dens we found a collection of English roses, c a V n a t ions, ])inks and ver- benas ; but they looked lonely a n d miserable, and seemed like exotics and exiles far from home, and wo were sorry to see such a carica- ture of our humble and welcome vis- itors placed in such humili- ating contrast with their gorgeous Southern sis- ters. TROPICAL FOLIAGE, MALAY PENINSULA. m 30S LAKcr.R ocTr.ooKS OX Mfssrox.iK r..4.\'h Bu • want to speak of tho Mulu> ^ i)l»'. Wo had visited tli. liom* of a new rac" Wo need not toll our readers that the Malay po -plo form the fifth of tFi races >f mankind, and aro essentialiy different from tao Mongolian, the Cauca- sian, the :..'; .. id the Tndian. Thin vi\v\', with its various fan\ii)i'S, numhers, we beliove, about til irty inillionn, and ofcnpioa the Peninsula of Malacca, and the • In- mLs lying south and east. They are usually su))- posed to include th( Papuans or people of New Guinea and the Australian Islands. They ai-e nearly all Mohammedans, although 801. of them are of a niud*n-at.^ type. They speak a good raanv difporent iguages ; thi; Sumatrans, the Javan- ese, the Dyaks of Bo.ueo, the people o^ Celebes, the inhab- itants of the Phihi)i ■ nes, Timor and N(- inea, each having their distinct d riled. The Malay language proi)er is spoken on the Malay Peniu ula, and the small islands lying contigu- ous, and by many Malay villages that have been planted along the shores of many of the larger islands. Wo drove out into the country a few miles to see a genu- ine Malay village. We had often heard of these people, and of the strange way they built their houses over the water, but we had always supposed a Malay village meant a filthy, swampy settlement, where no one else could live in the damp, unhealthy atmosphere. It was a genuine surprise to find that a Malay village is constructed on the most perfect sanitary principles, and may be the healthiest place in the world. They select the side of a stream washed by the tide, and thev build their houses on posts, about four feet above the ground. f.AXlK (pU». W(> had tell our readers ceH of I mankind, Ian, the Cauca- ers, we beliove, lula of Malacca, ire usually suj)- Few Guinea and Mohammedans, )e. They speak rans, the Javan- ebes, the inhab- lea, each having .roper is spoken s lying contigu- .^e been planted 3. Bs to see a genu- hese people, and over the water, meant a filthy, ive in the damp, prise to find that perfect sanitary ;e in the world, iie tide, and they bove the ground. I •^'. " a- ,i -. , JW ii. op, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1^ !■■ mil 2 2 ^ U£ 12.0 11.25 1.4 III: 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 A^ ^^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques AMONG THE MAL^DS. hi^h 309 enough to be al)Ove floor is soniewliat sweepings and © r j n s t high tide. The open, and all the drainage just fall ^|p^^^H^^H ii^^<^> the water be- low. And then ^B^^SflH|^^| tAvice a day, wheir the tide rises, Old ^^,- \^^^^^K Neptune comes, witliout the sliglit- ^^Hlpi^'^^^^H est ex]>ense to the family. and washes ^^^' '^^^^^^ all the filth and re- fuse away and ^^B ^^jK^^^^R leaves the neigh- borhood as sweet ^^I^^^^^^^H ^^^^ clean r... the strand. ^^K^^^l^l^l ^^^^' walked a- I'ound a lot of these ^^^^^^^HIH houses at low tide and found the ^^|^^^^^^^H ground clean and dry, and covered ^^^^^|^^^^| All the ^^^^^^^^BIh houses of the ]age are connected H^^^H||H^| ^.V P^^uk walks or X)osts as high as the a Sumatra woman. houses, so that you can walk from house to house even at full tide. In short, it is a sort of Venice in miniature. Our local friends told us that it was decidedly the best way to build a house in a Malay town, and that they would recommend our missionaries always to live in just such houses. A very fine Malay house of this kind, of native materials, and with I'oom for three or foui' persons, can bo built for less than S'200 in gold, which is certainly very cheap, much cheaper than anything we can build in India, even with its low ])rices. We were informed by Dr. lairing, who has given much study to the people who speak the Malay language propor, 3IO LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSION ARY LANDS AMONG THE MALAYS. there fa at present no missionary work whatever unto a ftXlnt sUty. The Methodist work in Sn.gapore .s not IJXDS. XCs'Ti ^'hatever under a L Singapore is not ./j/OAv/ '/■///■; .y.ir.ivs. ,11 among thoni, but is confintMl to Englisli and Chinese. The (German and Dutch societies are laboring on Sumatra, Java, and Celebes, but these people do not speak Malay, but a local dialect. And so this great people and tongue are wholly r.eglected at the present time, and calling to ns to send them the Gospel. It is true that Malacca has been a Mission centre. It was here that all the Chinese societies began. But it has always been a centre for points beyond itself. It was the base of operations where the missionaries learn(>d the Cliinese language, and then, on the opening of the Chinese ports, poured their workers into China, and left the Malays; still unevangeli/.ed. This really does seem to be an open and a needy field. Our dev. biotlier, Mr. Lelacheur, has learned this language and has this people nuuh upon his heart. He and Dr. Lur- ing told us of many points that could at once bo occupied at very moderate expense. There are three Malay villages a few miles from the city of Singapore. There is a cluster of Malay villages • ut fourteen miles down the Straits. Then there is th(^ lar^. - '■ v,^ state and city of Jahoreo occupying, perhaps, two hnndred miles along the gulf, and whose Sultan is a graduate of a Missimi school, and friendly to Missi.ms. This whole state- which is under British protection, and the chief ofUcerof which is himself a Christian, is without a mis- sionary. These are but some of the Malay openings in the immediate vicinity of Singapore, while on Sumatra and the other islands, there iire many Malay-speaking villages that have no voice to tell them of Jesus. hv :iT2 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX .V/SSVOX.IRV f.AXDS. This does seem to us, after prayerful consiaeration, to be (.ne of the fields to which we should send u few Avorkers very isoon. Tlien, from Singapore, it is but a short distance, with direct comuuxnicatiou by steamer, to the great Kingdom of Anam with its twenty millions of people without a single nussionarv. Singapore is the natural centre for this, also, at l)i'csent at least. We weiv repaid for our whole journey by learning, we think without doubt, that Anam is really open for our missionaries. A young Spanish colporter has recently sold Bibles along the whole coast, and has stated that he has the fullest liberty to labor within the whole kingdom. V7e trust that as little time as j.ossible will be lost in getting even a small beginning in Saigon, the capital of Anam. But what about the Islands of the Sea, and especially the Caroline Islands, which were the direct goal for which we went to Singapore ? Well, this has not been lost sight of, and. we l)elieve, will also be reached from Singapore. Our brethren Avere hindered by Mr. Anderson's illness from attempting the long voyage necessary to reach these Islands: but, meanwhile, careful investigations have been going on. and it is believed that a direct line of monthly steamers has been found from Siugapti-e to the Sulu Islands, from the Sulus to Mandinao. and from Mandinao to Yap, which is the island we have aimed to reach. But in reaching it, we niay also be able to reach two other groups near to it, and that are as destitute and uuevangelized as Yap is. Mr. Lelacheur has had an excellent local work in Singa- ration, to be vorkers very- stance, with Kingdom of out a single tliis, also, at e journey by s really open has recently [1 that he has ngdom. We st in getting Anani. especially the foi- which we lost sight of, ,pore. arson's illness o reach these IS have been e of monthly Sulu Islands, iinao to Yap, ut in reaching ups near to it, Yap is. vork in Singa- i > AMOXa THE MALAYS. 313 port' among the En^lisli-speaking people. His life and testi- mony among tlie English Christians and missionaries have heen true, manly, and most hlessed. He has won for himself and (jur work the respec;t and conftdenee of all the other workers. Amid trying circumstances he has stood consist- ently and bravely, and (rod has given us in him a leader of tried faith, deep convictions, practical wisdom and experi- ence, and fearless courage, such as we cannot always find, and greatly n(>ed in such new fields. He has had a most excellent work among a luimher of young men and women, who meet with liim in evangehstic street meetings, and are doing glorious work for God. The need of English work is very great in Singapore. Our friends took us one night down Malay Street, and we would not dare to describe too vividly the scenes we saw, and yet it is good for us to know something of this world's dark side. Every house in the long street, on both sides, was crowded in the open fronts with abandoned women of every nation under heaven, and they not only stood and sat on the open verandas, but swarmed in the middle of the street, taking hold of every i)asser-by, and, literally, almost drag- ging them to their der They were in all the costumes of all the races, and they »!. oated and shrieked, in nearly all the languages under heaven, their calls to the passer-by And up and down, and in and out, were passing hundreds of Euro- pean men— sailors and soldiers, officers, low and even high, without shame or eifort at concealment. On this street our brother holds a Gospel meeting every 314 LARGF.K OUTLOOKS OX MrSSfO.XAHV LAXPS. week u.ul with his voice of thun.l.r he pvoclai.ns the Wor.l of God to these wicked men, and points his finder at thcnv m the Bight of all the people, as the men that are nuikin^ th. name of Christianity to he .Icspised among the heathen. He tedls lis that the street is usually .leared within a few nun- utes after he hegins, an,l these scou.ulrels are glad to get away from the sound of his voi.-e. G..dhlesshim n. lushravu and dithcult work, and let not a morhid sensitiveness make us afraid to see and meet these awful needs. But we saw a sadder sight in 8ingapon> than evn Malay Street. Our good nussiouary friends t..ok us to see the Chinese opium dens. En- tering an onhnary slio^) door, we were ushered into a room, ahout thirty feet long and tifteen feet wide, with a long tahle on each side running the whole length of the room, and a iJassage hetvveen, ahout a yard wide. Th«>s(> long ta- hles were covered with cheap mats, and <.n these the China- men win'e lying- snmking or sleeping. Our friend could talk to them in Chinese and we got a very good idt>a of the way these poor fellows felt ahout it. They were (piite A CHINESE PEDDLER, SINGAPORE. ^-? V7J6. AMONG Till. MALAYS, 315 s the Word ■at thorn in iiiiikiiit; the athcn. Ho ji few iniii- ^l:i(l tit gft in hiH bravo eness luako B than even V us to see 1, SINGAPORE. willing to talk, and received us kindly, and i>tfercd ns tea. They seemed to re-spect him very nmeh, and let him talk freely to them. W(* asked them many (|ueHtinns through him, and they were jierfectly frank and opt'ii in their an- swers. Here are some cjuestions and answers: " How nuichdoyou siM-nd on opium ;" •" Ahout seventy cents a day." " How much do you earn C "\ sj.-nd all [ earn ! " Another said he earned thirty cents a day. and spent forty on opium. Another, who spent all his income on it, said he did not save anything for food. We asked him if he was married. He said he had a wife and fanuly Ikmv. He did not make any provision for them. Wt> asked another if it mado him luqtpy. He laughed bitterly and said -''No," he could not afford to huy enough to make him happy. He was just able to drown a littl<; of his misery. He asked them how long they stayed in tli.'se places. They said, "All night."' They just smoked till they fell asleep and then lay there till morning, often they awoke in the night, and had to get more, so they had to stay there whei-e they could get it. We asked them if they would like to give it up, and they all said " Yes,' if God would give them the power to do it, l)ut they did not have the courage. Our friend jireached the Gospel to them, and they listened with earnest, kind faces, that made our very hearts bleed, and when we got through they just went on smoking again, and seemed to sink back into di'spair. We asked him how many of the Chinese of Singapore indulge in this habit, and r I.ARCI-K OCTl.OOh'S OX MrSSlOXARV I..1XDS. lu. Hiiid at least oighty out of I'vevy huiuliod. We were iippnlUHl. And w«» fi'lt that tlu' do- ^ was an awful master, and tho power of Omnipotence alone could break this chain. Many of the men hlamed our governnjent for providing opium, and their feeble voices were but echoes of God's tn'm.'ndous judgment, when some day the ([Uestion shall be asked, " Who sU'W tliese souls t" \V(> looked at their emaciated bodies andgaimt faces, and thought of hou- it would all end. and we asked them how it was going to end. And they said they believed they would go to heaven, for fhvii ahraijs imid for the opium then used! Poor, lost, human souls ! Oh, let us pray for the heathen. How we wislu'd we could speak to tliein ! How we longed to take them in our arms, and make them feel the love and ].ower of the One that alone can save the slave of opium and the captive of Satan. And this is only the beginning of China. Away beyond these stretch the mighty plains, where four hundred millions of these bright, strong, capable minds and hearts are bound in yet stronger chains of darkness and despair. Lord, hel)) the heathen ! Lord, haste Thy coming ! XDS. Wo were fill master, tliiH cluiin. • pioviding ?8 of God's ion shall bo XVIII. FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SOUTHERN CHINA. it faces, awd lu'iu how it thoy would I thci/ used ! he heathen, ve longed to he love and oi)iuni and way beyond Ired niillions ;8 are bound ning ! WK HAVE just spent about ten days in Southern Cliina, chiotly in llong Kong, Canton and vicinity, and have met many of the missionaries and a number of other persons interested in and a((|iiainted with this field. Wo have given mu' li careful study to this vast region, with its distinct dialect, its numerous great cities and its three provinces, containing a population of over ;}i»,O0U,- U()0, and we are beginning to have some adequate conception of its needs as a mission field, and its claims upon the church of Christ. We had a slow and somewhat tedious voyage of nearly a week from Singapore on one of the oldest ships of the P. & 0. line. They only run their best ships, as a rule, to Bombay and Colombo, and transfer their passengers for China to in- ferior boats. We had n good many passengers, including some very pleasant Chiistian friends, among others Kev. Dr. Ridgeway, President of the Methodist Episcopal Theological Seminary, Evanston, and his wife, Col. and Mrs. Waller, of India, and Rev. Dr. West and family, of Singapore Metho- dist Episcopal Mission. We had a daily Bible reading in the ct*bin and Sabbath 3«7 ^iS LARGER OrTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY LANDS. services. On Sabbath e%-ening we had the opportunity of ^])eakir,g a few words for Christ, and at the close of the ser- vice we got a good introduction to a class of men wliom we had met a good many times already in the East, raid who form a verv distinct and influential class in the seaport towns of China and Japan. They are the English abroad, and, we are sorry to say, that many of them are the worst people m the East, and the worst enemies of Christianity and Chris- tian Missions. We had spoken H- i ■n'^ Ibd.yl^ STREET IN HONQ KONQ. streets, presenting a line appearance. The architecture is well adapted to the climate and scenery. Government House is half way up the hill, and the Botanical Gardens, with some fine trees and plants, a little higher up. There is a tramway leading almost to the summit, and the view from the Peak over the harbor and islands is superb. The view from below, nT IJ 322 J.Ah'CI-.l'! OfTl.OOKS OX .irfSSfOWl RV r.AXDS. at night, Avheii tiers upon tiers of light encircle the gigantic hill almost to its sunnnit, is extremely grand. The population is about i;40,000, of whom H,5(Kiare Euro- ])eans and Amei-icans, and ll(),f)Of» Chinese, and the rest of them Asiatics. The trade is enormous, exceeding ^-JoOjOOO,- 000. The ])oimlation has increased one-third in the last ten years, and the business of the place is evidently extremely prosperous. Its shipping and telegraphic conmiunications touch almost every part of the world, and, like Singapore, it is a sort of rendezvous for the commerce, l)oth of the eastern and western nations. It is the eastern boundary of Great Britain's wonderful Empire, and one of her most beautiful and prosperous colonies. She has held the island since 1841, and it is the base of hei- military and naval movements in the East, and the point from which she is able to enforce upon the haughty Ch.inese the observance of their treaties, and the rights of British and other foreign citizens abroad. Hong Kong, while not directly a missionary field, at least in the same sense as Canton, is a missionary centre, and the headquarters of many of the missionary societies for South- ern China, especially the Church Missionary Society, the Basil Missionary Society, and the London Missionary Society, some of which we had the privilege of visiting. But our objective point was not Hong Kong, but In- terior China. And so, the day following our arrival at Hong Kong found us on board the fine steamer, " Hankow," sail- ing through a multitude of beautiful islands at the mouth of the Pearl River, and then up that fair river to Canton. The i*i. ! .- ^i^MHWnti-anjii) ■ L.tXDS. I 8,5(H)aroEuro- and the rest of edinj? ,^-J<)(»,000,- 1 in the last ten ently extremely c^ommunications ike Singapore, it ,h of the eastern mdary of Great r most beautiful sland since 1S41, il movements in able to enforce )i their treaties, itizeiis abroad, ary field, at least y centre, and the lieties for South- ary Society, the issionary Society, ng. ig Kong, but In- r arrival at Hong "Hankow," sail- ; at the mouth of to Canton. The FIRST IMPRESSrOXS OF SOCTIIEh'X CHINA. 323 picture was a pretty one. The islands and shores were clothed with ridiest green — the finest shades we have seen in the East. The entrance is through the Tiger Pass, be- tween two promontories which the Chinese have crowned with tw(j i)ag()das to keep tlie strong current of the river from carrying the good luck it bears from the interior out to the sea, and so losing thes(! jjrecious influences to the country. Undulating plains and distant hills, with many intersecting canals and streams, and waving fields of young rice of the most brilliant green, spread out on either shore. Here and there a handsome pagoda rises, some as high as nine stories ; and, occasionally, a sfpiare tower is seen, de- signed to bring good luck and success to the literary candi- dates from this village or neighborhood. Myriads of graves cover many of the hillsides, every one being located on wliat the Chinese oracles had pronounced a " lucky " spot ; for to be buried in "a lucky grave,'' and to be worshi])])ed by his children and posterity, is one of the highest ambitions of a Chinaman. The scenery of the Pearl River from Hong Kong to Canton is not unlike the Hudson, and in some respects is quite as pretty. A sail of eighty miles brings us to Canton. An immense forest of masts ; miles of small boats of every size and shape, roofed over with matting and filled with families of women and children, who live in them all their lives ; a great expanse of low-roofed houses stretching along the river front and reaching back to the hills beyond ; one or two English - looking church spires ; a lofty native pagoda in the distance ; .rur"' 324 I..IR(;/:R O/T/.OOAS ox M/SSfOXARV LANDS. a few nine-story, sciuare buiMings, ovoi-topping the rest, anrl standing out all over tin; city like the new Chicago castles in the air ; and there, at the landing, a great swarm of Chinesci men, women and children, and one familiar face, waiting on the jetty to w(>lcome us -this was our first view of Canton, the capital of (^uan-tnng Province, the metropolis of Southern China, and almost the largest le kitchen in the rear, a little cabin in the front, where the family live and die, eat and deep, and find both their residence and means of livelihood. The front cabin is a sleeping place at night, and during the day a place for passengers to sit while they are ferried l)y the Chinese family, for a few cents, across or up and down the river or canals. These boats all have a i)lace to moor at night, and this is theirs by right, and the only local habitation they ever know. They may go ashore to labor, and the father often does dur- ing the day, but they nuist live on the water. The little girl that is born on the water must die on it. She dare not marry a shoreman, or ever leave this class of river people. She may, and indeed does, many some Chinaman, but it must be a river man, who will take her to live on some other little boat. The female members of the family do most of the row- the rest, antl >castlosintlie Chinosii men, Liiting on the I Canton, the of Southern ncse Empire, curutc'ly tell. 3 it at between iilways on the with matting, , a little cabin and Bleep, and h1. Tlie front lie day a place - the Chinese n tho river or ,lit, and this is ley ever know, ften does dur- The little girl laie not marry pie. She may, t it must be a ther little boat. 5t of the row- FfRST lArPRKSSfOXS OF So/ ■/•///: A'X I7//X.I. 325 .^^^■■i^ ."." . ■i^l-,.:.-.. ,;-'^- 1 -^-v ■r:::% ing AN'e had to cross on these boats inany times whihMii Canton, hut it was seldom that we could j;<'t a man ; usually an old woman stood in the stern and worked the scull oars, and two or three young girls in front pulled tho other oars, ■while two or three of us sAt in the cabin, and watched tlu>ir pleasant faces and firm muscles as they jmlled the oars with the strc^ngth of men. Thousands— yes, tens of t h o u s a n d s — of these boats line the shores of the river and its numerous canals, and a high official told us that perhaps one-fourth of the peoi)le liv(>d in them. It was a great pleasure once more to meet our dear nus- sionaries, Mr. and ]Mis. Keeves, and their native assistant, Fung W5n, and to find them well and happy in their new field. We spcnit nearly a week in their hosjiitable little home, and had manv hallowed sea.sons of conference and BOAT GIRL. 326 LARcr.R orr LOOKS ox AffssroxARV i.Axns. prayer respecting thi' great Wi.rk for which th.'y luul come, and also many opportunities of nu'.'ting the other mission- aries in Canton, and of seeing the city an.l surroumUng country. We sluill tirst give a few sketches of th(! country and people, and then refer to the missionary work. • Our first visit was to the foreign quarter. This is a FOREIGN SETTLEMENT, CANTON. pretty little island called " Shameen," which is detached from the native city and assigned io the English, French, Ameri- cans and other foreigners for their residence. It was fitted up hy the Chinese Imperial authorities at a cost of nearly a quarter of a million dollars. It is very neat and pretty, and free from the odors- and other disagreeahle things that infest all Chinese citi(>s. Here are the foreign consulates and th.^ homes of most of the Missions, including our own. We had the u'y hiul come, )th<'i- niission- l smroundiiif; 9 country and er. This is a mletachcd from French, Anieri- ■. It was fitted ;ost of nearly a and i)rotty, and ings that infest isulates and tht^ wii. We had the /■//,".s •/■ /.i//7.7;.W(^\.s- <>/■' .sof ////■AX < /// \ . '. 327 pleasure of meeting tlio American Consul here, a gentleman who haH Hpent tt-n years in Canton in olVuial service, and whoso removal at this tini.' wnnld 1... deeply rcKiott.'d l.v .dl th«i missionari(>s. It is a most critical time in China. The reckless course of the American Congress in their Anti-Chinese legislation is at length heginning to react in China, and only a few days ago, here in Canton, a native pai)er holdly advocated tli.' policy of retaliation, and proposed that if America expelle.i the Chinese, China should undouhtedly expid every American from her shores. At such a time it is easy for a popular dis- turhance to arise at any moment ; and, therefore, the pres- ence in China of an American representative of Mr. Sey- mour's experience and high standing with the Chinese officials, is of much more value and importance than any question of political expedienc-y incident to a change of par- ties at the White House. Our next visit was to the native city. The first impres- sion a stranger has of the streets of Canton is the thronging crowd. What myriads of human heings, i)ushing, jostling, shouting, tramping on-on-<.n, with their curious, various loads and costumes and faces, through those narrow, c-rowdi'd passages evermore. Go where you will, it is ever the same dense, teeming crowd. You can gather a moh of thousands in any part of Canton inside of three minutes. You have but to stand on the street, and they are around you so thick that you can scarcely move. You have hut to enter a store, and you have a score to witness youi' bargain and in^p(>ct /..if?f;/-A' orn.ooks ov .VAsvArv.//.-)' /..;.v/'.9. your punlmsc. Vnlan.V. iuid v<)ic«w aie ■aurt. "Do you riowd 1 ]U'Vii ith a liuly iii- Diiio* a watiT Kilaiic**! (»n a lor man. with ico fat (loK ill ley are for the ih. Hore are I haskot, hung ;o (lashing on, 'ay, and t-vcry thjic Nvt^ wont 1 our runners le tuined asido lid said, one to OH wo walked wly fix tlieni- ets. Wo have lut novor suoh not inoro tlian hoolod vehicle, through these Tlicro are re- II FI k'ST IMPh'ESSIOXS OF SOITIIERN CHINA. 329 liginus smells, from inct'iise tapers and burning papers, and there are the most vicious odors conceivable from foul ac- cumulations and fetid markets, and decaying fish and veget- ables, and crowded shops and tenements. And yet the worst 8t]'eet in Canton is a i)aradise to one of the temples of Benares. CHINESE TEMPLE, CANTON. Of course we went to the " Temi)le of the Five Hundred Gods," and saw the coarse and jovial-looking deities in brass ; images which looked much more nKw a crowd of jolly Dutch- men in a lagor beer saloon than anything divine or even Chinese. Two of the five hundred wore near the entrance, and they had their arms full of babies, and they seemed to I ill I 330 I-ARGili: OITLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. be the favorites, for their shrines were full of burning in- cense, pl.'uxMl there by their worshippers. At the "Temple of Longevity" there were several huge deities in brass, who nuist have lived a long time to grow so big, but they all had the same jovial look of coarse animal enjoyment, showing the Chinaman's liighest ideal of a supe- rior being in a very humbling light. At this temple the crowd was very rough, and two of us received slight blows from some young rascal in tho mob, but no serious injury. We had a lady with us, and she was the occasion of most of the excitement and curiosity. For a lady to appear publicly on the streets of C'l.ina is very unusual, and the fi-eedom of Europeans always attract;: much attention. The "Temple of Horrors" is also one of the sights of Canton. It contains a number of representations t)f future punishment, that are vivid enough to make even a Chinaman sober. Each little chapel contains certain representations of the torments of the dannied. In one they are being boiled in oil, in another encased in a hollow tree and sawn asunder down the whole length of the timber, and so on through a dozen different progressions of every conceivable torture. In each scene the god of the lower world is represented in some horrible form, and the poor culprits who are waiting for their turn are standing in the background with nuich con- cern and terror depicted on their faces. This temple is farmed out every year to a speculator who pays a large rent for it, and receives all the offerings of the worshippers m re- turn, and, it is said, always makes a fortune out of it. The HIH(.i41»JifS . LV/)S. ' burning in- sov(3ial huge le to grow so oarse animal ;al of a supe- ple the crowd t blows from . injury. We f most of tlie ir publicly on le freedom of the sights of ons of future n a (Hiinaman esentations of > being boiled sawn asunder vn through a le torture, lu iented in some e waiting for th nuich cou- 'his temple is ys a large rent ■shippers in re- .utof it. The F//^sT i.vrR/:ssio\s ( >/■• sorrHr.h'X c his A. 33 1 practical Chinaman is not unwilling tonmke money even out of a subject so horrible. The place was full of nmney cha.^'ers'and various professions and offices, and seemed a strange mixture of sordid avarice an ^ ghastly superstition. The public execution grounds were not much less revolt- ing Here is an open triangular piec ; of vacant ground, with a number of large crosses leaning against the wall, where not less than three hundred persons every week, on an average, are publicly executed. One of the execution- ers, a brutal-looking creature, wanted to show us the swords they use, but we c(Hild not stand this. Here, men and women are tortured to death at the rate of ir),<'(>o a year, in the name of justice. They are sometimes fastened to thes(^ crosses and hacked to pieces as they hang there ; sometimes sliced into a dozen pieces and slowly tortured to death, and sometimes more mercifully beheaded or strangled at once. In China anv man may be arrested on suspicion and lodged in jail, and when hi. trial comes off there is no lawyer to defend him ; lawyers are unknown in China ; but he must plead his own cause before a magistrate, who is always open CHINESE MODP, OF PUNISHMENT. iii T^T,! i.ARcr.R (wn Diik's OX .u/ssrox.iRY L.ixns. to luibeiy, and from wlioso docisioii Ihoic is no appeal. Every accused i)Oison is l>(>uiid to prove his innocence, and, milike English law, is assujninl to he jiuilty, unless he can do so. Unless an accused ])erson has money he rarely escapes (ondenniatiou. Tliousands of innocent i)ersons languish in ])riso;i without a hearing, or die on the execution grounds as hrutes, and there is none to help or i)ity. and the great crowd rushes on and misses them not. If Solomon had seen Canton lie could not liave given a h(>tter account of it than his sad refiaiu over human wrongs : '"So 1 leturned, and considered all the oppi-essions that are done under the sun : and behold the teai'S of such as Avei-e op])ressed and th(^y had no com- forter ; and on the side of tlieir oppressors there was power, ])ut they liad no comforter. Wherefore, I praised the dead whicli ai-e already dead, more tliau the living which are yet alive." Our circuit led us out througli tlie city gate to a lofty lull on which stands tlie Five Story Pagoda, and from the top of this we got a good view of the great city below us, Avith its almost countless houses, apparently built in one solid ma.ss, with just a nai-row path between them. These high buildings, that I'ise here and there to eight or nine stoi'ies, are the pawn shops, and in their ui)per stories are the accumu- lated pledges of years, on which money has been loaned at exorbitant interest, and, in almost every case, they become at last the property of the money lender. These men are the millionaires of China, and in these odd tower-like places are treasiu'es of great value. I a!JWIUllli,l.>(llWIULJt.JJW.i » • lA'DS. /■VA'SV /.U/'A'/.SS/O.VS (>/' SiU-f/f/.hW < /f/\.i. 1 '^ -^ no appeal, ocence, and, !ss ho can do ri'ly escapes laiif^uish in a j^rounds as great crowd seen Canton ;han Lis sad d considered : and behold had no com- ) was power, ed the dead liich are yet te to a lofty from the top low us, with in one solid These high 16 stories, are the accuniu- jen loaned at they become ! men are the ke places are Yonder, in the distance, is the Roman CathuUc church, with two great spires ch^aving tlic sky. wliich have been a constant offence to the C'liinese, vvlio hate any sharp point in the air, because, they say. it obstructs the Dragon as he flies, and makes him angry. Tliey would have torn down the old Cathedral long ago had it not been for foreign i)rotection. Here, just under us, are far-extended hillsides covered with the graves of many generations. On several of them we can see the fires burning where incense has just been offered, and ])aper money burned, that it may go to tliem in smoke and become^ currency for them in the other world. On others there are great offerings of rice, or sometimes a fowl or a piece of meat, whicli the poor Chinaman really needs for himself, but offers instead to his deceased father, and expects the spirits to carry it off that night, and give it to him. It usually does disappear before morning, but it is into the mouth of some hungry Chinaman or wandering Pariah dog. They also burn over the graves suits of ])aper clothes for their departed friends to wear. You can buy these suits in the stores, but you nuist not be surprised if the trousers have only one leg and the tunic one side. As it is only a spiritual transaction, the Chinaman believes that half a coat will rep- resent a suit as well as a whole one, and there is no harm in saving even that nuich tissue paper. Indeed, they have an idea that they can cheat the gods ; and so we heard, the other day, of a little girl that had a boy's name, and the mother said in explanation, "You know the gods don't like little girls, and so we want tliein to think this is a little boy, and 334 I.ARCr.R Ol -I LOOKS OX M/SSIOXANV I.AXJhS. they won't know the difference." Poor, groping heathenism, —strange they will not consider ! As we afterwards passed more leisurely through the nar- row streets, we had a hetter chance to see the shops and stores. Some of them are rather fine, with a good deal of costly carving and gilding. They are all on the same pattern witli a counter on one side and a set of nicely- carved seats or benches on the other side for the customers to sit down ; for bargaining is a leisurely business in China, and the merchant wall take any a- mount of trou- STREET IN CANTON. KHJl-'.'i.-J-'i'fflfJH ' J ' 'J' ' Ml ■««!eu"«'!JLiij!i». m- 1-"' ) 1 ?^, i » l- JjL- - j.^;b J- " :^. 'i! ,-.,■ J l}.i ^ .A.XDS. f lieatheuism, •ough the nar- lio shops and itores. Some )f them are rather fine, tvith a good Seal of costly- carving and gilding. They are all on the same pattern with a counter on one side and a set of nicely- carved seats or benches on the other side for the customei-s to sit down ; for bargaining is a leisurely business in China, and the merchant will take any a- mount of trou- LADV EMBROIOERINQ. Kipiociiiclioii Inini m Chinese I'aiiUitijj. ■^ir' w m . i nn I mmmmm j'lh'ST fMPh'/ class of goods to he soon is very ordinaiy and exceedingly monotonous. There is little of the ex(iuisite fancy work and infinite variety of novel, ingenious and attractive things to ho seen in a Japanese store. One can walk the streets for hours, in Canton, without s<>eing anything that he c-ares to huy, even as a novelty. The Chinese mind is intensely practical and rather common place. Their finest work is emhroidery and silk weaving. We went through one of i\w silk factories. We saw the whole i)roit'ss, from the spinning of the silk thread to the completion of the weh. Every part of it was hy liund, and our surprise was to see the heautiful and perfect work that came out of such crude machinery. The hand looms are very simple, hut the work was perfect, and the long pieces of pure white silk shone with almost metallic splendor. We asked the j.rice, and found it was sold wholesale at thirty cents a Chinese foot, which would he less than fifty cents a yard in English measure and money. The silkworms are produced in great quantities in the silk country, which is only a few miles southwest of Canton, and is the wealthiest and most anti-foreign district of the Province. The fan palm country is adjoining, and myriads of fans are also to he seen in the stores of the dealers ; for everyhody here deals in specialities, and you have to go to one store to get your paper, another to get your ink and pens, and a third to get your books. The writing is all done with a camel's hair brush, on rice paper and with India ink, made in long ■iflf 336 L.IRCr.R OfTLOOKS iK\ .VfSSfOX.IRV L.IXDS. In I. i il Sticks like scaling wax. There is also much lacquer work to be seen, and a great deal of jade-stone jewelry, which is the national ornament and very costly, singl.^ sets selling for hundreds of dollars, hut showing little artistic beauty Tlu; comnsh.ns are very numerous, and men who can altord it payimm. use sums for aconiuof certain kiudsof wcod which are especially "lucky." But the restaurants and butcher shops are the most characteristic. Here we find all numner of creatures, dead and alive. Here are fish ana creeping things for sale, junks of pork and other kinds of meat, live rats hanging by the tail, and here are the cats and dogs we met on our j(jurney,- all ready for lunch. The black cat is a special luxuiy. And there is one restaurant where they keep nothing else, and where you can see on the signboard this tempting bill of fare: ''Nice, pure, black cat always ready inside." The signs are great,' long boards, hanging down perpendicularly from the second story in front of the stores, with great red characters running down in columns, proclaiming the adver- tisement of the goods inside. These hang so thick along the narrow street that you can scarcely see anything else as you pass along. We spent a day in a country village up the river, and saw something of the raral or village life of the people. A small party of us got a boat, and up the interminable creeks and ^•^nals they rowed us until we were quite out into the coun- tiy. Southern China is the city of Venice multiplied by one hundred. It is a collection of tens of thousands of cities II .IXDS. [•qiior work to , whicli is the t^H selling for beauty- Tho can altoi'd it lit wcod which are tho most features, dead 'or sale, junks in^ by the tail, • journey,- all luxury. And hing else, and nipting bill of inside." The lerpendicularly with great red ling the adver- hick along the ng else as you ) river, and saw ople. A small ible creeks and into tho coun- ultiplied by one .sands of cities /••/A'.s /• /.I// 'A7;.s.s7( >\s ( >/■ .sv >/ ■/■///■• A'A' < /f/\. I. 337 towns and villages, all built on tlie water. Creeks and cnnals run everywhere. Kven as you sail up and down the great river, you can see boat-sails all over the country, windingabout among tho network of wateiy j)a.ssages that go in all direc- tions. Vou can reacli almost any place by water. We found ANCIENT BRIDGE NEAR CANTON. g" the country almost wholly covered with young rice, growin in the water, and looking wondi-ously beautiful with its tints of light, brilliant green. Every few hundred yards we came upon another village. Th(;se villages have from five hundred to five thousand people in them, and tliey form an almost continuous city over the whole land. There are no isolated ■" 52t=3!^ ^i?KE^-"« -r^ 338 }.AKc:r.R orri.ooKS ON .vrssfox.iRV i..i\J)S, houses in China ; all tlio people live in villagos, and g" to the tields to work l.y day, retiu-ninK to the adjoinit.K village at night. As we lauded at one of these villages, ahoiit six miles from Canton, wv. weiv astonished to find that wo were as strange to these people as if we had eoujo from another world. The children ran screaming into the houses, and tho jnothers were afraid to let ur. look inside lest we should " frighten the children " It war; evident that some of them, at least, had never seen a foreigner before. Soon, however, they began to crowd around us, and erelong we were march- ing through the town with more than five bundled men, women and boys i.i our train. Aft<'r we bad scattered a few bits of sugar-cane in the crowd, which is their favorite sweet, they considered us (juitesafe, and perhaps even popular, and they showed us around. Tho great sight of this village was the duck house. Here the ducks are incubated by artificial heat, and we saw great •trays and boxes full of thousands of duck eggs in all stages of hatching. When tho ducks are old enough, they are taken out to feed in great flocks. A duck boat is quite large and will hold numy thousands of them. They simply sail up a little creek, and lay a plank to the shore, and the ducks just march out at call, and scatter in little companies over tho nee fields, and spend the day in feeding on all the bugs, worms and insects to be found. They are very welcome visitors, for they destroy the pests that injure the crops, and the farmers and ducks are great friends. When evening comes, the duck jMnn^iii mm y /..t.\7>s. m, aw\ go to the oinitig villayt' at about nix miles liiit wo wcro as 10 from another J houses, and the lest we should \t some of them, Soon, however, ; wo were march- e hundred men, d sfuttercd a few if favorite sweet, (ven popular, and lick house. Here lud we saw great ;ggs in all stages gh, they are taken i quite large and r simply sail up a nd the ducks just anies over the rice the bugs, worms Icome visitors, for s, and the farmers ig comes, the duck F//!Sr /A/PA'/iSS/OXS or SOCTllF.RX CIUXA. 339 shepheid calls in his flock, and they come , and they say tluu'e is great excitement when the ducks come to end)ark, for they know that the tardy ones and the last one will get a thrashing, and so they .scramble and scream to got in first. The first tiling we saw at every village landing was the ancestral tenijile, or hall, where worshij) is ivgidarly j)aid to the i)arents of the '.arious hf>us(>holds. Indeed, we found that usually each village belonged to a single; family, all being rt latcil to one another and bcariu!"; the same name for count- less generations. The village we landed at was La, and all were the children of La and successive Las, and so all assem- bled at the same shrine and burned their tajiers to the same ancestors. We went into the temple and saluted the score or two of head men and others that were there, and as we looked at the countless tablets with the names of all their fathers, we began to feel something o.^ the age and conserva- tism of China. In one of the villages opposite Canton we went into a number of Chinese flower gardens, and laughed again and again at the odd sliapes into which they had dwarfed and twisted every sort of plant and tree. Some were like drag- ons, others like men, women and gods. Some were comic, others religious ; others, again, beautiful imitations of moun- tains, valleys and landscapes, with grottos, jiagodas and hi -40 LARGER Ol'TLOOk-r, OX MISSIOXARY LANDS. houses here and there on the mountain side. But all were in miniature. Here were orange trees with fruit and flowers, and the trees were less than a foot high ; forest trees, many years old, as big as rose bushes ; boxwood plants cut to look like a great fat Buddha, or brother Jonathan, tall and lank, PAVILION NEAR CANTON. with an umbrella in his hand and his hat on one side of his head. c w f In another village was a gieat Buddhist temple full of lazy priests and sacred pigs and hens. Here is a regular pig- pen with gigantic swine, so fat that they can scarcely move, which some one has rescued from the butcher's hands and dedicated to the gods, and here they are fed by all the ■■npaiMPi LANDS. But all were in lit and flowers, [•est trees, many- ants cut to look I, tall and lank, Q one side of his ist temple full of •e is a regular pig- an scarcely move, tcher's hands and re fed by all the CHINESE TEMPLE. KipiiuliictiDii Iniiii :i Cliim.-se I'aiuUnj; ii FIRST /MI'h-l-:SS/OXS ( '/■• SOI T/lEh'X CJ/IN. I. 34 1 pious worshipptns who come, until their troughs are run- ning over with rice and onions, and tliey are ready to die of corpulence. Here they live in peace till they die of old age— worthy types of the bestial degradation of blind and Christless heathenism, or Matthew Arnold's "Light of Asia."' But the saddest sight we saw that day, and tlie one that will live longest in our memory as a sort of Monograph of heathenism in its cruel horrors, was a httle dead baby girl, floating with downward face on the water of the canal. All around were hundreds of boats, little family boats, full of men and women and children rowing and paddling about in the canal, but no one seemed to notice or care for her. Not a yard away was the boat from which, perhaps, she had fal- len, but her little heli)less hands had been stretched out to them in vain, and her little cries had been stilled by the waters of death ere they resi»onded. She V((,s onli/ a girl! It was ''her fate'' to fall over, and why should they inter- fere ? So our friends told us the Chinese really believed and acted. They assured us that if we were to fall into that canal, probably not a single hand would be moved to save us. It was our business, and why should they interfere ? If we chose to drown, they were not going to hinder lis ; and if we chose to swim, why— all right. Indeed, the captain of our river steamer told us that only a few nights ago he heard a splashing in the water near his ship as she lay at the wharf. There were mt>n around, but nobody moved, and he could not possibly have got near without going ashore, and taking ten minutes to get round i 342 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. A CANAL IN CANTON. the pier to the spot. Next morning he asked one of the men, who had been standing by, and he said it was, a China- man who had fallen in, and they let him die. It was his business,— why should they interfere? And there, sure enough, when the tide went down, lay his dead body in the low water, and the people came down all day to wash their — !fHE V LANDS. isked one of the 1 it was, a Chimv- die. It was his ^nd there, sure dead body in the lay to wash their hiNST iMrRFSSioxs OF sorTH/:/^.\ < II IS A. 343 rice and fill their water vessels-right beside him and no one noticed or seemed to care for that pooi', lif(>lessforni that died because there was none to help. And so our little baby girl lay fioathig in the river, and no one lifted her out or s<.ught for her a binial robe <>.• * ' lucky grave. ' * There she would lie till she lloated out with the tide to the dt^ep sea, or the river shore, to b .evoured by the fishes or the dogs. If she had been a little boy, perhaps more would have been done for her, for we noticed that all the little boys on the river-boats had life preservers, ma< more, Even a child (lan do ; Anoo persons. Canton, itself, has anywhere between one and two mil- lion people ; and, only fifteen miles farther up the river, the city of Fat-Shan has 5n(i,(iti(» people, and between the tw.. cities there are many villagers. We went ui) among these villages five or six miles, in boats, and they seemed endless. It is°probable that within a limit less than the distance from New York to Yonkers, there is a i)opulation in and around T^A^ l.ARCr.R OUTLOOKS OX MISSIOSWRY LANDS, Canton nearly as j^ivat as tlif city of London, whih^ in many otlicr parts of tlio i)iovinc«* you still find tlu* sanm teeming crowds around other centres. The accessihility of this vast population is one of the peculiar H'atures of this i)art of the country. The whole coiuitry is one inteiininahle network of rivers and canals, and nearly every place of inipoi'tance in these two pi-ovinces is citiier on a river or else within a few hours of it. These rivers ai'e traversed hy hoats of every description. There ar<> a few steam launches ^'oin^' regulaily to several points in tlu- interior, and a still larger numher of native " l)assag(^ boat?," going almost everywhere and carrying great lunnhers of passengers, but these are so uncomfort J)le for Europeans that few missionaries use them if they can go anv other way. The most comfortable way is to take your own boat. If you are in a great hurry you can take a "Slip- per boat," the "Chinese express," a boat that looks just like a slipper, and is propelled by four strong rowers, and can make, under ])ressure, from seven to ten miles an hour, it is said. If you wish to go more slowly and cheaply, the ordi- nary "sampan" can be had, with crew, for about a dollar a day. The most comfortable boats are the House boats, with acconmiodatiou for several people, where a missionary party or family could live for months if necessary, and preach from l)lace to place along the numerous streams. The boatman can be got for about twenty-five cents a day, and the river is a much safer i)lace in the event of a mob than the land. In- wmmm A'DS. lilo ill many nie toeming (tne of the Tho wliole and canals, \ro provinces it. description. y to several er of native Trying great iforl .ble for they can go to take ycur akea "SHp- loks just like LM's, and can xn hour, it is [)ly, the ordi- )ut a dollar a i boats, with nonary party ])reach from T\w boatman id the river is he land. In- ,1//.V.S7().\. //>'»■ //"A'A- /\-.SV'/ //// AV\ <7//.V./. 349 deed the great n.aj..rity ..f those thirty millions of p.-ople ,ould be evangelized, at least, so far as the rapi.l pubhcati.m of the (Jospeliscomvn.e.!. by passing up and down these stnan.s, and spending a few days at ,-..h point, and then passin- ..n. Of «ourse. this is not all that needs to be done, but tlds would be s..mething; it would b.- nmch, and the planting, of eours.-, would ne,..l t.. hr afterward caretuUy watered and husbanded. Let us look for a moment at the river system of these prov- inces. First, we have th(> Delta of tho Pearl Kiver. This begins about one hundred miles from its mouth, a little above Canton, and spreads o u t toward the sea like a A NATIVE BOAT. great fan about fifty miles wide at the wide or c - .a end. This section is cut up by many rivers and canals, and is a re-ion of great wealth, and containing, literally, scor.'s of grea't cities and many millions of prosperous and enterpnsmg people This is the region of the silkworm a.ul the fan palm ; and the anti-foreign feeling is so strong, that in many of the towns missionaries cannot yet enter. But the most avadable centres have been already occupied by the Presbyterians and others. 350 J.AKC.r.li OV ri.OOKS OS MrSSTOXANY LAXIiS. Next is tlu' liver HyHtem of tlu* interior. Some distance above Canton, tho P.-ail Ilivri' begins to spivad ont into its numorous fet^bTS or brandies. Tb(^ piiiieipal of tliese are tbo East Kiv(M-, ilio Nortb Kiver and tbe West River. 'Pbe P'lst Kiverwateis (be country nortli-east of Canton, and its valleys are tbiekly populated and oecupied by some of tbe most sucn-essful mission stations in tbe whole prov- ince. Tbe Nortb River runs down from tbe mountains tbat border Hunan and Kweicbow, and it fornis a waterway for tbe whole northern section of tbe i)rovince. The country at its beudwattsrs is said to be most beautiful ; and tb(> mountain scenery of IJencbow, a t;ity near its headwaters, is said by those who have travelled much to be unequalled by any iu the world. The West River is the longest of the three, and drains tbe most extensive country. As we ascend it, we find it branching out into three great lines, and sjnvading over the whole of West(;ru Quantung, and most of Quangsi. One branch nms up north to Kweic;bow, the capital of Quangsi. Another stretches away many hundreds of miles through Central Quang'-i till it reaches the mountains of Yunnan. And another sweeps down to tbe south of that province and Jlows on a fine, navigable stream, with cities and towns all along its shores— to the western border. Such, then, is the i)bysical frame of this great field. Along these water lines God has distributed tbe people and taught them to use them as the avenues of connnunication. And along them the Gospel must be carried to their teeming millions. J.IXDS. Somi^ distance 11(1 out into its 1 of thew! are River. ast of Canton, iipicd by some le whole prov- jountains that I waterway for rho country at \ the mountain ters, is said by \\V'(\ by any iu •ee, and drains it, we find it ading over the (^uangsi. One bal of Quangsi. miles through ns of Yunnan, it province and 's and towns all his great field, the people and communication. ;o their teeming MISSIONARY U JA'A' fJV SOL'rm:A\V (///.VA. 351 To a ci'itaiii extent this has been doiir for eighty-six years. Eighty six years ago, a solitary missionary sailed in an Anujrican sliip from New York to tho port of Macao, for tho j.urpose of preaching tho Gospel to the Chinese. As ho started on his new and apparently hopeless mission, a scepti MACAU. cal \raerican said to him : "So you expect to convert the Chinese, do you ? " " No," he answered. " I expect God to do that." That man was Robert Morrison. He waited seven years before he saw the first Chinese convert baptized, and twenty-seven more before he saw China opened to allow tho preaching uf the Gospel in Canton and other ports ; but could he look down from heaven to-day he would see over 352 LARGER OrTI.OOk'S OX MISSIONARY LANDS. G,0()(i (converted Clvineso in the province at whose gates ho spent liis hfe, apparently in vain, and nearly 4(t,000 more scattered all ovei- China. His work was foundation work, and every other mis- sionary has reaped the fruit. He translated the Scriptures into Chinese, and prepared a dictionary of the Chinese lan- guage, hotli of which great works were the hasis of all the literary work that has since improvtMl upon his ditHcult but valuable b-:-ginning. In 1S41, the treaty ports of China were thrown open to foreigners and missionaries, and inmiediately a number of the leading missionary societies began operations in Canton. Gradually, during the past forty years, these operations have been extended over the province, until now there is a force of nearly 100 European and American laborers, nearly 200 native laborers, and over 7,000 native Christians in the prov- ince of Quantung. In the extreme northern corner of the i>rovince, the city of Swatow is the centre of the work of the American Baptist Missionary Union, where Dr. Ashmore, Miss Fielde, and many others have been laboring successfully for many years. Miss Fielde's work for women, through native Bible women, has had phenomenal success, and, although she her- self has returned to America, her work is still going on suc- cessfully. Here, also, the English Presbyterians have a good work, founded originally by that apostolic man and missionary, William Burns, of Scotland, and still bearing tlie seal which %m ANDS. I lose gates ho r 4(»,000 more ■ry (^th(;i' rnis- tlu; Scriptures 3 Chinese lan- isis of all the ■s ditUcult hut brown open to a numher of 3ns in Canton, perations have :here is a force ?rs, nearly 200 ns in the prov- ivince, the city lerican Baptist ss Fielde, and illy for many y\\ native Bihle liovigh she her- going on suc- e a good work, nd missionary, tlie seal which Mrss/ox.ih'v iioA'A' /.v so r 77/ /■: A' y dffx.i. 353 his devout and lofty spirit left upon it. We had the pleas- ure of meeting, in Shanghai, dear Mr. McKenzie, one of their oldest missionaries, and a sweeter, humhler and more Christ hke spirit we have rarely met ; and some of tlie incidents he mentioned of the working of the Holy Spirit among the native people reminded one of the df^ys of the founding of Christianity. In Canton and vicinity the strongest force of workers is connected with the Presbyterian Mission, whi( ;. is well-organ- ized and manned, so far, at least, as the forces at its com- mand will allow. The venerable Dr. Happer is now in Amer- ica, but he has succeeded in obtaining a large endowment for the Chinese Christian College which is in contemplation for the higher education of Christian boys. Dr. Henry is the best known of the workers in the field, and his two remark- able books, "The Cross and the Dragon," and "Lingnau" (among the very best of the many volumes we have read in China), not only give a most clear and vivid view of Southern China and its Mission work, but also afford a striking glimpse of the aggressive spirit and missionary labors of the man. His work is entirely evangelistic and ini&oionary, and i:i the course of his intensely active life he has penetrated almost all portions of the province, and explored and opened to the world the interesting island of Hainan, which is now tha scene of one of their most successful Missions. Mr. Fulton is also engaged chiefly in itinerant, evangel- istic work in his missionary boat. He spends weeks along the rivers of the interior, and has had the honor, we believe> ' ■I 3S4 LARCHK Orri.OOKS Oy MrSSlOXARV LANDS. of being driven out of the West River country, wliich we have ah-eady refarred to as the field our workers hope to oc- cupy. In this department of missionary work there are several chapels in Canton, and elsewhere, where daily evan- gelistic services are held, and the floating crowd ever surg- ing by, drop in, one by one, to hear the Gospel. No man ever had a more honored and successful min- istry in this connection than Mr. Preston, of Canton, who for more thai, a quarter of a century preached from day to day, in this great city, and was permitted to sow seeds in tens of thousands of hearts as they passed by from all parts of the country, many of whom have since, from time to time, come out into full confession, and told how they received their first impres- sions through his words. He is now in a better world, but we had the pleasure of meeting his daughter, who is the wife of a missionary in Canton, and is still carrying on his good work. Her husband, Mr. Wiesner, is in charge of the Boys' School, which we visited, and which is the nucleus of the Chinese Christian College about to be established or i-e- CHINESE SHOEMAKER. Reproduced frota a Chiuese Painting. ii :!(Hil r LANDS. ntiy, wliich we ;ers hope to oc- work there are here daily evan- rowd ever surg- "11 E SHOEMAKER. )ta a Chinese Painting. L a better world, ighter, who is the ill carrying ou his 8 in charge of the 1 is the nucleus of 3 established or i-e- MISSIOXARV U'ORh: /.V SOCTHERy CHINA. 355 modelled. Rev. Dr. Noyes is the Superintendent of the The- ological Seminary where a number of Chinese are preparing for the ministry. There is a very well organized hospital and medical work in connection Avith this Mission, under the charge of Dr. Kerr (now in America), Dr. Swan and Dr. Niles. Through the extreme kindness and hospitality of Dr. Swan and the other workers, we saw much of the work, and have reason to believe that great numbers of the natives are reached and in^ terested in the Gospel while coming in touch with the hos- pital. Tens of thousands of persons visit the hospital every year, and while waiting for treatment as out-patients, or re- maining under treatment in it, they always hear the Gospel, and more or less impression is made upon them. As they return to their homes they have a grateful and friendly feel- ing toward the missionaries, and are used by God to open doors in th. c -,. lor. The Presbyterians have a strong medi- cal work, wuich, we believe, they are honestly using as a handmaid and auxihary to direct missionary work, and we have not met a more true or earnest missionary spirit than Dr. Swan, the gifted head, at present, of the Canton Hospital ; but we are sure that he and others feel that the greatest need to-day is more time and men to do the direct missionary and evangelizing work for which the other is merely preparatory, and without which it would only be simply a waste of time and a perversion of money, which is given not for scientific or humane, but directly missionary purposes. We believe that i!"*!! 356 LARGER orri.OOh'S O.V MISSIONARY LANDS. there is opportunity in Southern China for some medical mis- sionary work, but we are sure that even the medical mission- aries recognize the necessity for direct evangeUzation as par- amount. Among the many whom it was a great joy to meet, and whom wo cannot stop to name, was Dr. Ceattie, of Toronto, and his dear wife, who were about to open a new station in the western part of the province, south of Canton, and who are well known to many of our dear students and friends from Toronto, and are in full sympathy with our work. We had the opportunity of visiting the Girls' School, un- der Miss Cutler and Miss Lewis, and seeing some of the little Chinese women of the future. Over a hundred bright girls are here preparing to be native Bible women, wives of native preachers, and the wives and mothers of the native Christians in their various callings. A certain amount of educational work seems to be neces- sary, as the native schools compel their i)upils to learn and practice heathenism, but the aim of the missionary church will have to be, as soon as possible, to lay this upon the native Christians themselves, and not require the home church to maintain in China an expensive and gratuitous system of secular schools. This the Karens have already done in Bur- mah, and this the Southern Baptists have, in a measure, done in Canton, where they have a boys' school for the higher education of native Christians, initiated and carried on by the native Christians themselves, aided by the missionaries, and working successfully. ' LANDS. lie modical niis- ncdical niission- elization as par- oy to meet, and ;tio, of Toronto, a new station in Canton, and who ents and friends 1 our work. Hrls' School, un- lonie of the little idrcd bright girls. , wives of native native Christians aenis to be neces- jpils to learn and lissionary church ay this upon the ) the home church tuitous system of jady done in Bur- a a measure, done lol for the higher carried on by the missionaries, and jV/ss/ox.ia')' iroA'A' /.y sorri/Ek'S c//fx.i. 357 Time and space will Jiot allow us to follow our Presby- terian brethren through their interesting work down the Delta and uj) the North Kiver to Lienchow. We met several of their native pastors, and attended one of their native ser- vices, on Sabbath morning, conducted by a brother, who came to Canton from among the Chinese in California. The men sat on one side and the women on the other, with a high board i)artition between, which Chinese etiquette requires. Had not this wall been there the same rigid eticpiette would have prevented the men or women being allowed even to look across at eacli other. This is one of tlie things that our young missionaries are slow to realize, and sometimes try to ignore and disregard ; but the free intercourse of the sexes, as it would be innocently regarded with us, is impossible here not only among the natives, hut also the nxissionaries. The time will doubtless come, when the native Christian -community will be strong enough to establish more simple and natural habits and customs ; but, at present, it would be an unwise struggle with long-established customs, and would turn the thoughts of the people to a mere side issue, and awaken prejudices and suspicions which we may easily avoid by a little prudence and self-denial. We saw in the Canton Hospital a specimen of foot-bind- ing. The patient had come for treatment, and was sulTering from her feet. She was very unwilling to let us see them, but Dr. Niles kindly insisted, and unbound tlie poor crippled lumps of twisted bones and muscles, and wf? saw the cruel mutilation which every Chinese woman who expects to be 358 /,./av;/;a' ory/.ooAS ox .i//.v.s7rJ.v./A'>- /../.v/^.v. fashionable must endure. There is nothing' more sad than to see the poor laboring women who have submitted to this cruel custom, in their r hearts, <>i- mon; open doors, than among the missionaries abroad. We had the i)rivilege of meeting about forty of the workers in Canton, and deem it a great i)iivilege to know these dcnir standard-bearers and be counted as fel- low workers with them. Our own work, we need hardly say, had only begun, but already, through the modest worth and wisdom of our dear workers, it had become established in the atf ection and con- fidence of other nnssionaries. We believe the time has come when we may send ai)artyof workers to reinforce our friends in Southern China. Tbey went to this part of the Empire chiefly to see what openings there were still unoccupied in this oldest of the China Mission fields. But they found such destitution and need that we could easily employ hundreds (jf laborers. After nmch careful and prayerful inquiry, we believe the Master would have our AlHance endeavoi' to occupy the neg- lected i)rovince of (^uangsi. It lies just west of Quantung. It has a population of eight millions of people, and, with th«^ exception of one or two little stations, recently planted by the Southern Baptists on the West River, is entirely unoccu- pied. The Presbyterians attempted to occupy it a few years y..'liL. /..i.yps. )n Saljbiitli wo icl'resbytfrian iiinutions were rvice to many Even niission- vve have never lan among the meeting ahont great ]>rivilege counted as fel- )uly begun, but 3m of our dear ction and con- ! time lias come orce our friends of the Empire unoccupied in hey found sncli iploy hundreds , we beheve (lie 3ccui)y the neg- t of Quantung. e, and, with tlie iitly ])lanted by entirely unoccu- ly it a few years M/ss/ox.iAT ;/'(M'A'/.v .s< >/•/■///; A'.v <7//Av;. 361 ag(.. l)ut were driv(>n out; but tli.> Baptists persevered, and have a small but solid footing, and rei)()rt that the pe(»ple have beanne more friendly ; and now the Presbyterian brethren, we believe, regret that they hav(^ not the force to occupy it at ])resent. This is siu'ely the "regions bt^yond " of Southern China. With (me exception— Hunan— it is the most unoccupied and destitute field in the Empir(>. T.. reach it is an .uubition worthy of the bravest heart. To claim its eight millions for Christ w^ould be to our hearts an inspiriug hope if we were ourselves free to go. Most of its people live along the shores of the great river that flows past Canton, and its various tributaries and headwaters. Every pai-t of it can be easily approached from Canton by boat. A party, if need be, could live in a boat for months and evangelize along the river shore. We wish there was a score of siuai (lospid boats along the rivers of guangsi, and we be- lieve there will be, ere long— at least, we hojie there will be- at least half a score of i)ioiieers ready to go before the close of the year and take this region for Christ. But let no one think that this is a work that can be done by inexperienced enthusiasm. No held so much iuhkIs the best men as this. A false step in China may easily pi'ove fatal to all the work. China is not India, a land all open to the (lospel, and a people who meekly give place to the Eng- lishman. In China you are the inferior, and you enter and stay only on sufferance. Undoubtedly, the secret purpose of the Chinese nation is, as soon as they can afford it, and can manage it, to get rid of the foreigner. 362 LARCER orri.OOK^ ox MISSIONARY LANDS. You cannot ko where you like or .lo as you pleaso l>.«rr. You ran do nothinj,' without their goo.l will aiul confidence. Every sl.'p you take you will I.e watched hy a suspicious crowd. They cannot holieve that you have conu^ then^ with- out some selfish and mt r.^enary motive. If you go otT alone, it is ivported that yov. have gone o(T to find some fal.l.'d golden pig that is concealed in a cave in the valley, and that you are carrying <.«' the good fortune of the place with you. If you put up a Chapel, you are sure to get some corner of it wrong, so that it hinders the progress of the dragon as he flies through the air. In Swatow the missionaries had to give up the property they had secured, hecause it was found, on consulting their oracles, that the land was located right ou the dragon's tail. Only a few weeks ago, tlu^ Baptist Chapel, in this very i)rovince of Quangsi, was ahout to be torn down because they said it was keeping back the rain ; and if the Christians had not prayed, and the Lord sent the rain within four days, the Mission would, undoubtedly, have bee; I expelled. If you are going to Quangsi you must go expecting, per- haps, to be stoned and driven out after you have spent months in establishing your work. What are you going to do about it \ Why, as a good missionary said m Southern China lately : " Just go back again and if they drive you out a second time go back once more, and they will respect you for it." And when they see that you have decided to stay they will let you alone, as they have done already more than once in the case of noble, indefatigable men, who counted not thci' lives dear unto themselves. il! )U|t .mns. il conlidtnice. a suspicious \i\ tluM-o with- i go off aU)ii<', some fabh'd .h?y, and that ace with you. )m(' corner of dragon as he naries had to it was found, located right 3, the Baptist ,s about to be l)ack the rain ; Lord sent the oubtedly, have ?xpe(tting, per- iu have spent 3 you going to id in Southern yr drive you out ill respect you lecided to stay iady more than 1, who counted If then> are such m.'u in Auierica waiting for a call, Quangsi is tlu- place for them, espe.-iuily if they will take the Lord to give them His wisdom, courage anpen the eyes of Home of His loved ones who are wasting their lives at home, <„■ oidy getting Go.Vs Better instead of God's liest for the solenm, precious life that each of us can only live but once ! k XX. SHANGHAI AND ITS MISSIONARY WORK. WK saik'd Iroiu Hong Kdu- to Shangliai on "Tho Km press of India," of th(^ Canada racific Itailway Company. She is on«^ of throo great "Empress" steanisiiips, which are, dou\)tless, the finest in Eastern Avaters, and only surpassed, perhaps, by the new Cunard liners, recently placed on the Atlantic. The others are " The Empress of CHiina" and "The Empress of Japan." They are painted pure white, and in contrast with the black hulls of most ocean steamships, present a most queenly appear ance on the water. The young Canadian colony has good reason to be proud of her vessels. We had expected to con- tinue our journey on them all the way, at a later date, to Vancouver, but found afterwards that it would be necessary to part witli our tickets and leturu from Japan, via San Fiancisco, in order to be home in time for the Old Orchard Convention, of whose earlier date we bavc^ just heard. We cannot speak too highly of the comfort of the-e great steamships, and the courtesy of their ofiicers, as well as the exceptionally high class of passengers who usually l)at)onize them. They make the voyage from Japan to America in twelve days, and reduce it, almost, to an Atlantic passage. .164 4JJ. /ORK. ini on "The v\i\c Kiiilway "Empress" in Eastern now Ciinard icrsave "The I pan." They 10 black hulls xMily appear my lias good )ected to con- lator date, to be necessary pan, via San > Old Orchard J hoard. I fort of theie fticers, as well 5 Avho usually oni Ja]ian to to an Atlantic s/rA.\(;ir.ii axp its missions RV n'ORK. 365 On the way we had the privilege of meeting the vener- able Bishop Burden, of Hong Kong, and learning mn.h from him about Quang-si. We also met sonae other faithful missionaries and esteemed acquaintances. On the third morning we entered the vast mouth of the Yan--tse River, and were soon anchored at Woosung, and a little^ater, steaming up the river in the launch to Shanghai, fourteen raile^^ further up. We were not prepared for our first view of Shanghai. We expected a foreign settlement-a number of^ streets, banks and English stores,-but this splendid and imposing foreign ci.y, stretching for miles along the river with is parks, gardens, splendid warehouses, offices and hotels quite took us by surprise, and made us wonder if we were not in Calcutta, Rangoon or Bombay. Shanghai is, indeed worthy of comparison with any of the great foreign capitals of the East ; and we found afterwards, as we often traversed its fine Uvements, and passed up and down its magmficent streets, that our impressions were not disappointed There are three distinct quarters, all succeeding each other, on the river front, viz., the American, British and French, but the British is the most substantial and imposing^ In these Concessions most of the foreigners live, and most of the missionary and business houses are erected. Back of this lies the native city, which has a population of about 125 000, densely crowded into its close and narrow streets, very much like any other Chinese city. The foreign popula- tion of the European Concession in Shanghai is between 366 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS 4,000 and 5,000, and the native population about 200,000 in the foreign city, and 125,- xtO in the native— or a total of 829,000 altogether. The trade of Shanghai exceeds $1,600,000 annually, and the actual value of property in the foreign city is $70,000,000. We were kindly welcomed and most hospitably enter- tained by our dear brother, Mr. Stevenson, at the China Inland Mission Home, Woosung Road. Here we met a num- ber of the missionaries of this model society, and realized much of the spirit of their work. We felt very much at home among these dear young hearts who reminded us of our own young people in America at the College Home. The Shanghai Home is a beautiful and commodious building, ac- commodating, we should think, nearly one hundred persons, and is, we believe, the gift of one of their own workers. The spirit of the Home is most hallowed. Every meal is closed with prayer, and every day has its special fields for prayer and intercession. The Missionary Man is part of the decoration of the wall, and as the places are called out for special prayer, the long pointer moves along the map and all eyes and hearts meet over the place where some lone heart is standing as a witness for Christ. The work of the China Inland Mission covers the whole Empire, and it is most in- spiring to realize the grasp of China which God has given this great missionary movement, after the toils and trials of thirty years, comprehending so many of the strategic points of this mightiest Empire on the globe. At the missionary prayer meeting it is usual to read ex- ^^^ ANDS. mt 200,000 in or a total of eds $1,600,000 n the foreign spitably enter- at the China ve met a num- , and reahzed very much at nded us of oxu* 3 Home. I'he 18 building, ac- ndred persons, workers. Every meal is ecial fields for is part of the called out for he map and all >me lone heart : of the China it is most in- d has given this I trials of thirty c points of this 3ual to read ex- "1' CHINESE IDOLS, NATIVE CITY, SHANGHAI. k^ SHANGHAI AND ITS MISSIONARY WORK. 367 f :Mi ei,)smsmmmtiimiv tracts from the letters that are ever coming from the field, and telling of the triumphs as well as the trials of the work. We are so glad to say that the former were far in the ascen- dent at all the meetings that we attended, and that many of the incidents that were given from Yunnan and Kwcichow, from Kiangsi and Szchuen of the things that had been hap- pening the previous week, were thrilling and truly apostolic. God is working to-day, especially in North China, in the hearts of the Chinese, and especially through many of the native preachers, in a way that fills our hearts with hope and joy. We had the opportunity of witnessing for Christ on Sabbath morning and evening to large English audiences containing many missionaries, and we were the recipients of many personal kindnesses and courtesies. Among these were not a few old workers and missionaries. It was a great pleas- ure to meet dear Anna More in her Presbyterian Home, and to find a little More added to her life and happiness, as well as home circle. Her husband. Rev. Mr. Silsby, has an excel- lent work at South Gate, Shanghai. Mr. and Mrs. Evans are doing a good and useful work in their Missionary Home and Agency. Mr. and Mrs. Fitch are connected with the Presby- terian Publishing House. Dr. Farnham is in Mission work in Shanghai. Miss Fannie Smith has become Mrs. Dr. Woods, and is up on the Grand Canal in her husband's field. Mr. Ferguson, of Nanking, who was the host and friend of some of our early missionaries, was in Shanghai. We also met Dr. Corbett, of the Presbyterian Mission in Chefoo, which God ■ UW' .i-A. 368 L.ih'cF.R or'Ji.oohs ox i\f/ss/ox.ih'y /..i.\/)S. has so richly blessi;'i, dear Mr. McK<)izie, of Swatow, with whom we had hallo ved foUowsliip, ami a good many whom we had previously ksiovii or wnh wltoin we had some special ties. Ou Tuesday afternoon a large gathering, including most of the missionaries in Shanghai, and a number who happened to be in the city at the lime, assenibled in the chapel of the China Ir lind Mis.' ion to extend to ris a welcome in behalf of our missionary 'Aork. This v/as an unexpected kindness, and it was most courteccsly and heartily given. It was in response to an invitation from our host and friend, Mr. Stev- enson, whose kindness wo canno"^ too gratefully acknowl- edge. After the usual English cup of tea and sandwiches, we were glad to hav* the opportunity of explaining the object and plan of our work, and laying it upon the hearts of th'^se dear workers for China. There had been some misunder- standings, especially in connection with the sending out of so great a number of Swedes at one time. It was feared by many that so largo a number could not well be received and properly located at one time, and that any mistake in this direction might unfavorably affect missionary work in other parts cf China. As our readers kuow, we had already antici- pated those dangers before leaving England, and since our arrival in China had been very busy arranging the details of this great undertaking, and we were able to assure om* missionary friends that every precaution had been taken, and still would be, to guard against anything that could "m^ Swatow, with I many whom ,(1 some special ncluding most who liappenocl 3 chapel of tho ne in behalf of 3ted kindness, en. It was in end, Mr. Stev- ully acknowl- andwiches, we ling the object hearts of th'^se )nie misunder- iding out of so was feared by )e received and nistake in this - work in other already antici- and since our ing the details ) to assure our id been taken, ling that could ip ■, ; ' &e sir.ixcir.ir AXf> its .v/ss/ox.ia'v uork. 369 inimTil this work or i.tejuako the work of utlu-rs. We were also glad to tell our f-iends of the profound nussionary movement which God was stirring up in the hearts of so many at home, and the enlarged hopes lie was givn>g us of the evangelization of China and the world in this g.nerat.<,n At the close of the message W(> receivinl a very kn.d wel- come in the name of the missionaries present, from the ven- eral.le Dr. Muirhead, of the London Missionary Society, the senior missionary in Shanghai, and the companion and suc- cessor of Dr. Medhurst, and the early founders of nnss.onary work in China. We were deeply touched as this dear old man recalled his early experience, and reminded a later gen- eration of the changes which he had seen in China, and then welcomed us to a share in its mission work and told us hat it was the great mission field of the world, and one which would repay, in ahundant measure, all the efforts expended ""^'"it^was a great privilege to meet this great hody of men and women who had been standing face to face with the needs of China, some of them for more than forty years ; and we were encouraged in the name of the Christians of Anwica to take a new hold with them for the evangelization of China, in the remaining years of this century. There was an attend- ance of more than one hundred and fifty, of whom the large proportion were missionaries. We have been impressed with the earnestness of the missionaries in Shanghai, and their catholic and united spirit. We had the pleasure of meeting at this gathering, Epis- ■*-« .-sr" 370 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS, copal (li.ujnitaijos, nity has a j^ood local work, and a nun'ber of laborei The Northern Presbyteriu, '^'hurch ha- a number of lab-ters in hanghai, and a large printing and publishing depart men. Mi .no luudred employes, under the superintendence ot our be- u)ved brpe for tho pro- ven years. There the Holy Ghost, I diina aro look- \i blessing which r represented in avu t lieir receiv- es for the enor- and supplying a . parts of China, iary missionary neties, have their mg iud vlevoted •y So< jfity has a The Mt)rthem ei-s in 'Shanghai, Irnen, *h aie lemo of Ushment, at home. The Venerable Arch- Church of Amer- SHAN^HAf AA'P ITS MISSION A R V n'ORK. ^^l ica l.y Vonerahle Archdeacon Thompson. Tho Southern Baptists, the American Church of tl. IMsciplos and the Seventh 1 )ay Baptists have each several laborers in Shanghai. The Woman's Union Missionary S- doty of New York, found- ed by Mrs. Dorenms, has an excellent h.' pital and Bov.>ral missionaries. There is a Chinese Tract Society, a Seaman 8 Mission, a Mission for the ^ Japanese, a V/oman's ' ^^^ ' Christian Temperance Un- ion, and a Christian Vernac- ular Society. There are two Union Churches, with services in English, one meeting in Masonic Hall and the other in the Union Church edifice. " The Chinese Recorder " is pub- lished monthly by the Pres- byterian Tress, and the "Chinese Messenger" by- Rev. Timothy Richards. The first two parties of our Swedish Missionaiies had already arrived, and through the wonderful goodness of God, bad been provided for and coudu t* d safely on their way, wiih- PAOODA NEAR SHANGHAI. ...-sT" 372 l.ARCER orn.OOKS OS MISSIONARY t.AXDS. out any w-rious luisadveutuiv. P.iit l.aas<)n. it wcmM Iimvo Ix^eii attemkd with nericus (lithculty and inconveuience, and would have been theocasiou of miieh concern on the i>art of other missionaries. We cannot thank Govith their superintendents, over fifty, have gone to Northern Shansi, and are preparing for nnssion- ary labors in Northern China, under the most hopeful aus- spices. Tins alone is a very lar-o body of missionaries, as large, perhaps, as the nuniber of any other society in China, except the China Inland Mission. Their training will engage the utmost -are and capacity of their overseers, and their nund)er will be sufficient to occupy very fairly the large and populous district assigned to them. As soon as they shall have been properly introduced to their work and assigned to their stations, and their uccess shall have shown the entire practicability of the arrangements here, another party can follow them with the opening of next season,— a larger party if the circumstances justify it ; and fVo work can be indefi- nitely multiplied, if the Lord shall continue to provide the means, agencies and openings. It is simply a debt of justice and an obligation of the barest courtesy to say that we owe very much, indeed, of the facility with which the transit and location of our Swedish friends has been effected, to the kindness and wise coopera- tion of Rev. W. I. Stevenson and the China Inland Mission. LANDS. larger luunber of several ad- ild havo l)(!eii ivt'uien<-<>, and )ru on tho part • wliat has and forty-tivo now ents, over fifty, iiig f(ir mission- st hopeful aus- niissiouaries, as ociety in China, ling will engage ■seers, and their y tho largo and )n as they shall and assigned to iiown tho entire other party can ,— a larger party k can be indefi- 3 to provide the obligation of the 3h, indeed, of the of our Swedish ,nd wise coopera- % Inland Mission. .^aiiiiiftywM - SHANCUAI ASn ITS MISSION AR V WO 'h 373 Tli<" Suporintendent of tho Mission is Mr. l-lniaruiel Ols- sen. Mr. Ulssen is tho son of a proniin-'nt Swedish gentlo- nian, and has gladly devoted himself to a self denying mis- sionary life for his Master's sake. He has bee.i in China bo- t\v(H>n two and three years, and has ac(iuired the language and become a((|uaint(«d with th(> peoi>le. He is very nnuh encouraged in his work, and already the Lord has put His seal upon it in Northern China. The field they havu taken is Northern Shansi. It lies outside tho great wall, and is occupied by a vast population of simple, agricultural i.eople, who are very kindly disposed toward them, and a good many already are in(iuiring into the Gos])el. The field reaches tho borders of M(mgolia, and sonie of them, no doubt, will be led of the Lord to that great people, among whom, there is, asy^t, no single voice to tell of Jesus and salvation. We thank God for the hopeful connnencemont of the Alliance Mission North Shansi- -and commend it to God and tho prayers of His i)eople. This movement, if wisely directed, will become a great blessing to China and prove tho beginning of a wide-spread system^of evangelization on simple and deeply spiritual linos. These dear people have a simplicity of faith and capacity for self.lenia], hardship and endurance which are much needed in China, and will prove a most helpful inspiration foall the other workers. There is no sort of doubt about their being able to live and do good work in Northern China if j^ 374 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. for the modest sum which they themselves have proposed. We feel sure that both they and their leaders are men and women of deep piety, and filled with the Holy Ghost, and that they will have the direction and blessing of God and the constant prayers of all our people, and that ere long the first stage of their work will be so fully established that the way will be open for sending them larger reinforcements. Hit -TS-^-i— ? , T'" ".ISfi ' LANDS. ave proposed, are men and )ly Ghost, and •f God and the long the first that the way aents. XXI. ON THE YANGTSE. FIVE great rivers compete for the queenship of the waters,— the Nile, the Mississippi, the La Plata, the Amazon and the Yangtse. Two of these we have not seen, hut certainly none of the others pour such a volume of water to the sea as the noble Yangtse. ^Xq have spent three weeks upon its hosom, passing up and down, and it grows upon us day by day in its immensity and impoi Wnce. More like an inland sea than a river, in many places, so broad is its tide that our ship rolled and pitched in its current like a vessel in the ocean, as far as three hundred miles f re m the sea ; and even at Hankow and Wuchang, six hundred miles from its mouth, so rough were its waves the day we left Hankow that it was deemed scarcely safe, one part of the day, for the large ferry boats to cross, and they told us that they were often upset in the heavy sea and swift current. There, even, it is p mile wide, and the great tea-ships, drawing nearly thirty feet of water, were lying at anchor in its waters ready to start to London direct with their first fresh cargoes. Up and down its teeming waters pass thousands of Chinese boats, ]>lying their busy trade, and the ships of all nations can be recog- nized at the vario" is ports. 375 376 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIOXARY LANDS. Several lines of fine passenger steamers run from Shang- hai to Hankow, and there are sometimes two or three daily. They look just like our American river boats, and while owned by Chinese companies, are run by European officers. Above Hankow there is r(>gular steam navigation several times a Aveek, nearly four hundred miles farther to the city of Icliang ; and above Ichang, the river is navigable for steamboats for six hundred miles farther, all the way up to Chung King, the metropoHs of Sz-chuen ; but the Chinese authorities, with their usual conservatism, have, as yet, re- fused to allow the foreigner to run liis engines up these sacred channels. As a sample of their ridiculous policy of obstruc- tion, it is seriously reported that when the question of allow- ing steamers on the upper Yangtse was referred, some time ago, to the Mandarins, they reported gravely that it would not be well to attempt it as the monkeys in the gorges of the Upper Yangtse were exceedingly fierce, and would throw stones down upon the ships and injure them. This part of the river is now ascended by cargo boats, which are pulled up the strong current by trackers, who walk along the bank. At this season, when the current is strong and the river high, it takes our missionaries a month lo go from Ichang to Chung King, a distance which can be accom- l^lished down the river in two days, so swift is the descending tide. No wonder they hope and pray for the day when the fear of these dreadful monkeys will be overcome, and the whistle of the engine will be heard in the Yangtse gorges. Dur time woidd only allow us to go as far as Hankow. ■PP ANDS, 11 from Sliang- or three daily. its, and while opean officers, gatioii several ler to the city ]iaviji;able for the way up to ut the Chinese ivc, as yet, re- Li]) these sacred icy of ohstruc- jstion of allow- red, some time { that it would le gorges of the 1 would throw hy cargo boats, ;kers, who walk rrent is strong a month lo go 1 can be accom- ; the descending e day when the rcome, and the Ligtse gorges. Far as Hankow. OX 77 n- VAXGTSn. in It would have required a month or two longer to penetrate the heart of Sz-chuen, and so we could only look upward from the mouth of the Han, and borrow the eyes of others whom we met, who had traversed these upper streams and explored the vast interior of China. ABOVE ICHANQ. Although this river ])asses through the most densely- populated section of China, yet there is little sign ui.on its shores of the teeming myriads that cover all these regions as thickly of ien as seven hundred to the square mile. In Amer- ica such a river would be lined with bright and busy towns. But here all is loneliness. A few cities appeal- upon the 378 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. banks ; with some striking landmarks, such as Wuhu, Ku- kiang and Hankow, with their foreign houses standing out in bold relief ; but most of the native towns are so low and flat, or surrounded with dead vvjills that are scarcely noticeable. And so we passed such world- renowned places as Nanking, without anything unusual to attract our attention, and Wuhu was really the first point of striking interest, at which we touched and tarried. The approach to Wuhu is quite picturesque. A good many hills overlook the town, and a number of foreign build- ings stand out in bold relief. The most imposing of these is the Methodist Episcopal Mission, on a high promontory over- looking the river, and about a mile above the town. The British Consulate, the Commissioner of Customs and the Eoman Catholic Mission occupy prominent and elevated situ- ations. Wuhu is a Treaty Port, and a place of considerable commercial importance. It is said to have the largest export, trade in rice in the Empire. The population is about 100,000, and it is altogether a place of much more importance than we supposed, ra^^king with any of the river cities, except Shanghai or Hankow. It is the chief city in the Province of Ghanwhei, and its river system connects it with most of the inland towns very easily and directly. The province had, be- fore the rebellion, a population of about thirty millions, equal to one-half the United States, but it is now much reduced. It lies north and south of the Yangise River, in a very central position, and is very thicky settled. Almost all the land is capable of cultivation and is fully occupied. LANDS. IS Wuhu, Ku- tanding out in ) low and flat, ely noticeable. s as Nanking, ion, and Wuhu I, at which we ;que. A good foreign build- Qg of these is montory over- le town. The ;toms and the I elevated situ- if considerable largest export about 100,000, iportance than cities, except he Province of ;h most of the ovince had, be- millions, equal ich reduced. It a very central all the land is m-r~rr-"W*j ' ; 3 X < z g (0 10 i I o ■\m ON THE YANGTSE. 379 We found our dear missionaries at Wuhu waiting for us on the hulk where the steamers land, and we had a joyful meeting They were all there except Miss Murray, who is temporarily at Nanking, and Mr. and Mrs. Johnston, who are at Tatung, about fifty miles further up the river. They were all well, and we spent two or three days with them m much conference and prayer respecting the work. The party at Wuhu consists, at present, of four ladies and ten brethren. They are hving in three houses ; the ladies in one, and the gentlemen in the other two, in a sort of Bachelor's Home style. , , 1 • 1 While at Wuhu we were the recipient ot much kmdness from Dr. and Mrs. Stuart of the M. E. Mission. We also had the pleasure of meeting Mr. and Mrs. Longden, of the same Mission. Mr. Drysdale, of the China Inland Mission, proved a valuable friend in some important business transactions, in which his Chinese experience was very generously placed at our service. We had several public services, which were attended by a good many of the foreign residents, and we believe o«<^ or two r-ecious souls were led to fully decide for Christ. We found our young men carrying on a good work an ong the English and American oflkials of the Customs .P ^Ice After a few days' stay, we hastened on up the river, intending to complete our visit here on our return. Half a dav's sail brought us to the pretty town of Tatung, on the same side of the river. Here Mr. Johnston was waiting to welcome us, and an hour's sail from the landing, in a sampan. 380 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MISSIOXARV LANDS. brought us to his house. Here we met liis wife and two childreu, and another missionary laboring with him at pres- ent, and we tarried two days looking over the field with him, and endeavoring to plan for the best interests of the work. Mr. Johnston left the Tabernacle in New York ten years ago, to prepare for missionary work, and about six years ago came to Cliina, in connection with the C. I. M. Three years ago he left their service, and, one year later, he joined our Mission. Tatung seems to be a very promising field. Oppo- site Tatung is an island, containing a large city of nearly 'JO,- OOO peoide, and Tatung, itself, has nearly as many people. They are very friendly, and almost all seemed to know Mr. Johnston, and to look upon him quite kindly. It was the only place in China where even the dogs did not once bark at us. And this is a very fair sign of the friendly disposition of their masters, and their familiarity with foreigners. Mr. Johnston has an excellent native worker, and carries on a constant chapel service every day and evening, and has some hopeful inquirers. There seems to be a fine opportunity for work here. Back of the town is a hill commanding one of the finest views in China, which would make a beautiful site for Mis- sion premises, and all around is a large, unoccupied country, accessible by the innumerable waterways of Central China. Mr. Johr ston has a fine command of the Chinese language, and gets on well with the people. He wears the Chinese costume, and we havo no doubt ■that this is, by far, the best way for interior work. In the lite mm .- liffliiro'iBjfCTffl — LANDS. ^vife and two 1 him at pros- icld with him, )f tlio work, fork ten years t six years ago Three years , he joined our y field. Oppo- r of nearly 20,- \ many people. 1 to know Mr. y. It was the :)t once hark at \f disposition of gners. ier, and carries '^ening, and has 'or work here, e of the finest All site for Mis- cupied country. Central China, inese language, havo no doubt r work. In the ox rnr. vAXcrrsr.. 38T treaty ports it does not make much ditference, and we have, as yet, no rigid rule on the subject. But, in the interior, it is, no doubt, much preferable in every way. If there was no other reason, the difference that it maker, in the ex- pense of travelling on the river steamers woubl bc> sufficient to decide the question. By wearing this dress one can travel in Chinese style, which is not at all uncomfortable, as we can testify from a little experience. You can got a cabin on the upper deck by a little management, and a seat at the private table of the compador or Chinese steward, and thus have a fair measure of privacy. And the dif- ference in price is simply out of all proportion to the difference in comfort. A regular English passenger will pay about $30 f^'om Shang- hai to Hankow, and the fare in Chinese cabin, is less than %,3. As to the comfort and convenience of the costume, there is great disparity of opinion. Our unbiased ju^S-ent is that most of those not wearing this costume dislike it And the great majority of those who wear it, prefer it for all purposes. A CHINESE RAIN COAT. , Jl,J-,;,i,,i_4y^i-ja>i!Jy-nB»»ili!"«!«-.-" ! jajlW!.;J.;m:'v-:.;jarfkt«!.^..fk,*w'A^ 382 LARGER Ol LOOKS ON MISSIOXARY LANDS. It has some disaava.itagc for lamrient. lUit many now n-ear liats with it. The shoes are also rather uncomfortable, and the shaving of tbe head is an av kward necessity for ni-ii. But, upon the whole, it is -asx , cemtortable, very gra^ etui and liandsome, cool in sum <'r. i id in winter .susceptible of any amount of padding and \. armtli. We would not advise any lady to go to China for interior work who is not prep. 1 red < wear this costume without ob- jection or prejudice, and those who ' » not wear 1: should, as a rule, stay in the older cent res \ work on the more conservative hues of the older Mi sions. It is not, ' 'uy means, contined to the China Inland Mission, but is ^' '^y many of the Presbyterian, Lo.id*, , and other missionaries in their interior work. From Tatung we went on up the river to Gangking, the capital of the province of Ghanwhei. This is the seat of the China Inland Receiving Home, where the gentlemen who come out as missionaries remain for six months studying the language, and getting their first introduction to Chinese life. This home is under the care of Mr. Bailer and wife, and it was a great privilege to meet these choice spirits, and td spend a day with them and nearly twenty of their students. It is needless to say that they are pecuharly adapted to their work. Mrs. Bailer is a born mother, and no young man there is allowed to feel that he is far from home, and she is just as able, with her tender, spiritual wisdom, to minister to their souls as to look after their darning and their dining. ON THE YANGTSE. 383 LAM>S. provision for irnate, ;ui shall speak again, tho Taii)iiigs hud captured tho city, and iimi(lered all who would not accept their rule and creed. And afterwards, when tho IniiJerialists reoccupitMl it. they beheaded all who had been rebels, so that between tho two lir(-s the poor Chinaman had a hard chance for his life. We left Gangking at sunset, and our friends escorted us outside tho city walls, and then returned, as the gates had to be shut at night. In a little native inn, on tho river bank, Ave waited for our steamer till three o'clock in the morning- alone. It was a little taste of life in tho interior. It would have been nothing if we had known the language. But we could not speak a word of Chinese, and they could not speak a word of English. But wo got on very well and did not feel a touch of lone- liness or fear. We had a single native Christian with us and he kindly helped us to i^nbark, although he knew not a word of English. But his face shone with holy intelligence. At length the steamer came along and stopped out in the river, till our native boat took us out, and they tumbled us and our baggage on board and we steamed away to Hankow. Our old native Christian parted with us with much afl\'ction. A party of seventeen soldiers also came on board with a poor prisoner in charge, whom wo went down, with the cap- tain, the next day to see. He was a pitiful sight. His hands and feet were chained, and around his neck was a great ox- chain fastened to a straight bamboo pole at his neck. The heavy chain crushed his neck. His posture was most pain- ful, and his face was white with fear, as these seventeen sol- 'jmMH "mj' i'lipi './IXDS. captured tho tlicir rule :uul i rcoccupieil it, t between tlio a for liislife. ids escorted us 10 gates liad to river bank, we tbe morning — rior. It would [uaj^e. But we ould not speak I toucli of lone- iau with us and new not a word itelligence. At it in the river, bled us and our Hankow. Our h afV<'ction. »n board with a n, with the cap- ght. His hands »vas a great ox- his neck. The was most pain- \e seventeen sol- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V. /. ^y -<♦ 1.0 I.I 1.25 M 2.2 1.8 U 11.6 1. Photograpnic Sciences Corporation ^v i\ ^ 1j •sj <^ r ,<-*'^ \ ^^% C^ -P-^u- 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 /716) 872-4S03 ^ s CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CiHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut canadien de microreproductions historiques '.m ON THE YANGTSE. 385 diers stood around him with spears poiuted and carbines loaded. He was charged with being a member of the pohti- cal society known as the ^^ Ko-loa-ivhei,^'' which is said to have incited the riots of two years ago. They are taking him up to Wuchang before the Viceroy, for trial and execu- tion, but we could not help asking God somehow to spare the poor fellow's life, and we trust in eternity to find that it was not in vain All along this rivei-, at that time, from Ichang to Nan- king, it was a time of terror and danger. Wuhu was the chief centre of violence, and there the Roman Catholic build- ings were destroyed and all the missionaries compelled to flee. At the peaceful little town of Wusui, near Hankow, an English missionary, Mr. Argent, was murdered, and a Cus- tom's officer cut to pieces. At Wuchang a rising was ex- pected, and the foreign gunboats were ready at a signal to shell the town if it was attempted, and a place upon the walls preconcerted where the missionaries should meet incase of danger. Very few people now believe that there was any political society back of these riots, or anything worse than the crookedness and meanness of ihe Mandarins themselves, who are said to hate the foreigners, and, while professing friendship, are really the secret inciters of many a disturb- ance and the greatest obstacle in tho way of sending the Gos- pel to the interior towns. No one who has not lived in China can understand this official crookedness. The Chinese Mandarin is said to be a man with a mask. In the same city will be often seen a 386 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. public proclamation against foreigners anonymously circu- lated by the runners of the Official, and, at the same time, another proclamation signed by the Official condemning all these anonymous proclamations, and declaring that they are circulated by bad and unworthy people. The former is to promote anti-foreign feeling, the latter to keep up an appear- ance of uprightness and good behavior. At the same time we feel it due to say that while this was the general opinion among the missionaries of the older soci. eties in Central China, we have heard some very different statements from the most experienced workers of the China Inland Mission in the interior. Indeed, they have assured us, and shown us letters to prove that often the Mandarins are their best friends, and honestly endeavor to protect them, and do the very best thing they can for them in the face of the strong anti-foreign prejudices of the scholars and gentry. Upon the whole, we have concluded that the shield has two sides, and both statements are true, under varying circum- stances. We reached Hankow on Saturday morning, and spent "three days in this great metropolis of interior China. It is a very fine city indeed. Its foreign Bund or settlement is only less imposing than Shanghai. The native city is three times as large, and much finer in every way, while two other great cities— Hanyang and Wuchang— lie right across the Han and Yangtse rivers, whose waters here meet. The three cities together have over a million inhabitants. Wuchang is the capital of the two Provinces of Hupeh RY LANDS. onymously circu- t the same time, il condemning all ing that they are The former is to eep up an appear- hat while this was of the older soci. me very different •kers of the China ly have assured us, ihe Mandarins are protect them, and n the face of the olars and gentry, he shield has two r varying circura- orning, and spent ior China. It is a settlement is only city is three times ile two other great ; across the Han meet. The three nts. rovinces of Hupeh H m ■0 > Z o IHI ox THE YASGTSE. 387 and Hunan, and a fine city of more than a quarter of a million people. Its houses are of a better class that any city we have seen in China. It is largely inhabited by official people. Hanyang is the smallest of the three, and lies between the two , on the promontory formed by the meeting of the Han and the Yangtse. Hankow is the commercial capital, and has many fine streets and stores,— that is, for China. It is the Empo- rium of the trade of nine great provinces, containing among them two hundred millions of people. It is, in a word, the Chicago of China, while Shanghai is the New York of the Empire, There are several strong Missions here ; the oldest and strongest is the London Society. Rev. Griffith John is its oldest and best-known representative. We had met him in America, and were sorry to find that he was absent in the country on a tour, but we received the greatest kindness from his family, and from all the other members of the Mis- sion. We had a good opportunity of seeing their work, and a good and substantial work it is. Its methods are conserv- ative and careful, but its results are solid, if somewhat slow. We saw two of their native congregations on the Sabbath, and it was very inspiring to see that body of two or three hundred native Christians, mostly men, and to remember that they had been gathered, one by one, from heathenism. They have three chapels in Hankow, where daily services are held, and a few stations in the country, in the vicinity. They have about a dozen English and as many native mis- sionaries. This is the result of thirty years of hard and 388 j.APnnm orri.ooKS on missionary lands. faithful work. When we asked one of their workers about the prospect of multiplying their workers, this was his answer: "If our Board wei-e to send us seven or eight more missionaries, we should welcome them ; if they were to send us twenty, we should not know what to do with them." This well represents the conservative method of Missions in its best and most successful form. No wonder we asked, " When are you going to reach all the millions of China at this rate?" And no wonder missionaries, who see no larger possibility for China, are led to believe in a 'larger hope," and some second chance for these lost millions in a future world. Thank God there is a better way. Notwith- standing the wise and honest convictions of such honored workers, we believe there is room in China for not only twenty more, but for men enough to occupy all her centres of population before the close of the present centuiy. And we believe that, by the gra^^e of God, it shall be done. We spent some pleasant hours with Mr. and Mrs. Arnold Foster, of the London Mission, in whose home Miss Stowell, of Boston, once associated with our Alliance, spent two years. We had one very interesting hour in the Hankow Hospital with Dr. Gillison, witnessing his treatment of thirty or forty outdoor patients, and seeing some samples of Chinese dis- eases, and the nature and value of Medical Missions. We had the privilege of teaching a Chinese Bible class through an interpreter, and seeing their bright, responsive minds. We were permitted to preach to the English congregation on Sab- bath evening, and trust the Lord was pleased to bless Hi» Word. V LAATDS. ON THE y.liYGTSF. 389 ir workers about rs, this was his 19 seven or eight sm ; if they were what to do with ative method of )rni. No wonder ill the millions of iionaries, who see lievein a ** larger lost millions in a r way. Notwith- of such honoi-ed ina for not only py all her centres^ nt century. And ill be done. .'. and Mrs. Arnold ome Miss Stowell, ;, spent two years. Hankow Hospital j of thirty or forty >8 of Chinese dis- cal Missions. We Jible class through onsive minds. We Qgregation on Sab- leased to bless Hi» We visited the two Swedish Missions, respectively in Han- kow and Wuchang, and also met the workers of the China Inland Mission, who have a business station here for the sup- ply of all their interior stations, and are now erecting now premises for stores and offices. We crossed the rough river to Wuchang, and visited several of the Missions there, and looked at some premises with a view to opening a station here for our own future work. This is, necessarily, the point of transition for all interior stations, and, if we are going to go farther West, it will be necessary for us to have a branch of our work here. It is, especially, tl>.e starting point for Hunan, the great unoccupied province of Central China, and sustaining the same relation to it as Qnangsi to the South, and Thibet to the West. So far the Hunanese have suifered no foreigner to settle in their province. Many have visited it, but only to be treated harshly and driven out. But God is working for Huuan, and it is soon to be opened to the Gospel ; if not by foreigners, at least by natives. Of late there have been many remarkable tokens of a rising of the native Christians to evangelize their own land. While we were calling at the Londor ^.'ssion in Hankow, we were delighted to meet two natives who were just returning from a missionary tour through that province. We had their story translated to us, and it was thrilling in its simple, apostolic interest. One of them is an old man, a voluntary evangelist, who receives no salary and is under no Society, but simply a mem- 390 LARGER orrr.ooKs ox mtssioxary r..txns. ber of tlie Wualeyaii Mission. The other is a coolie, who was called by the Spirit to accompany the other and carry his books and baggage, and who went without pay. Each re- ceived liis call apart from the other. Both had l)een praying for Hunan, in their homes—about nine miles apart. After praying awhile, the Spirit said to them, " What is the use of your i)raying unless you do something yourself to answer your prayer ? Why don't you go to Hunan ? " They thought of their weakness, and the difficulty and danger of the field, but God told them that He woidd be their Strength and Pro- tector ; and so they told the Wesleyan missionary, Mr. Warren, of their plan, and he and his people approved it, and had a meeting to send them forth, and gave them a collection of $8.00; and, with this as their capital and outfit, they started on foot for the capital of Himan, and when we saw them they were just returning from their first missionary journey. It was not unlike Paul's, in some ways. They had many perils and persecutions, but God had graciously de- livered them and used them, and they were now going home, with glad and grateful hearts, to tell the story of His good- ness, and go forth again with more books and ti-acts for a more extensive tour. The older man was a fine sample of a native worker, full of deep, solid earnestness and holy simplicity, and the rough, uncultured country coolie v.-as just as interesting, his face fairly shining as he told how he had been taken to the "Yamen," before the magistrate, and forbidden to sell any- more of these books or preach the Gospel, and how, when be 1. r.txns. coolio, who was • and carry his l>iiy. Each re- 1(1 been praying !s apart. After iiat is the use of iself to answer They thought ger of the field, length and Pro- nissionary, Mr. approved it, and liem a collection Lud' outfit, they d when we saw first missionary i^ays. They had I graciously de- ow going home, ry of His good- uid tracts for a tive worker, full , and the rough, (resting, his face n taken to the Iden to sell any id how, when he ox Tin-: YANGTSE, 391 got hack to his friend, they went on as before, and the Lonl had preserved them, and the very men who had opposed and cursed them became their friends and b :>ught their books. This is but a typo of the great movement which C'hina needs for its full evangelization, and which God is already preparing. Let us pray, let us work, let us believe, and wo shall see the glory of God. It seemed like a voice from heaven to us to meet this incident at the very moment of our arrival in Central China, and we conunend our two dear brethren, Chang-I-Tzu and Li-Quang-Ti, or, as we might ab- breviate it, Chang and Li, to the pi-ayers of all who love to remember China. We would have been glad to go up to Ichang, the head of steam navigation on the Yangtse, but it would have taken a week longer and our time was already overrun. So we con- tented ourselves with a good talk with our friends who had been there, and especially Mr. Broomhall, who had just re- turned from Ichang ; and then, amid the kind leave-takings of many dear friends who " accompanied us unto the ship," we started down the great river for Wuhn, Nanking and Shanghai. Just before we sail let us take one ])arting glance up these two mighty rivers to the vast fields that lie beyond. Soufl of us lies the Province of Hunan, with a pop- ulation gieater than all the Atlantic States combined, without a single missionary ; and north, lies Honan, as large and nearly as needy. Up the Yangtse we might travel thiity days and reach Chung King, the commercial capital of Sz- 392 LARGER OVTLOOKS OX MISSrOX.IRV I.AXPS. ast few years. A month still lartlu'rupthosanic river, lies Chontau, tho provinc- ial capital of Sz-chuen, where our old friend, Mr. Hart, and a lunnhcr of other missionaries have recently oi)enod stations. It takes these dear workers two mouths from Shanghai to ON THE UPPER YANQT8E. reach their fields, and three months to get their letters from home. Still farther from Chung King to the southwest, is the beautiful and mountainous province of Kwoi-chau, v^here the China Inland Mission have i)lanted a few pioneer stations. Up the Han to the northeast lie Shensi and Kansuh, with /. ;.v/>.s. ox Till-: YANGTSE. 393 'i-anco, and just few years. A uu, lIjo provinc- [r. Halt, and u ijH'iK'd stations. m Shangliui to leir letters from iuthwest, is the chau, v'here the )ionoer stations, i Kansuh, with. tea millions of people most friendly and open, and with lum- drcds of cities that are not yet entered, and where living is fio clieap that one smiles when they hear the fiKures at which houses can he rented and |)rovisions hought. And in these vast jyrovinces, as yet only a little handful cf jtionee'-s have placed the soles oi' their feet. There are empires of glorious ()i)poi- tunity waiting for Faith and Courage to contiuer. Were we youngcn- and freer, how our heart would spring to claim them 1 Comi)ared with them, how trifling the great- est Held at home ! Ai'd we wonder that even the niis- eionary ahroad can he wil- ling to settle down on some comfortahle preserve, pre- pared hy the toil and suffer- ings of another, content tc "build upon another man's foundation." and not reach out to these " regions beyond " where Cod is waiti)ig to give him a kingdom of sovds that shall he forever, through the grace of Jesus, all his own. Let us go forth, beloved, and claim our kingdom while we may. The possibilities of Mission work in interior China are immense, imperial. Millennial, and glorious indeed. PAQODA ON THE YANQT8E. XXII. DOWN THE YANGTSE. il • THE journey down the great river is much more rapid than the ascent. The swift current adds, at least, five or six miles an hour to the tune the steamers make going down. And so we reached Wuhu, from Hankow, in about thirty hours. We were in Hankow in the height of the tea season. It is the great mart for China tea, and so the river was full of tea ships, loading and leaving for London. These are splen- did steamers, great ocean racers which compete for the quick- est passrvge and the earliest cargoes of fresh tea for the Lon- don market. One was just leaving with eleven million pounds on board, -a cargo worth several million dollars. The tea from all the surrounding country comes mto Hankow, and here it is assorted, packed and shipped. The tea business employs many hands, and a specific profession, known as ' ' tea-tasting, " has grown up, which affords a lucra- tive business to many foreigners. The " tea-taster " usually receives a very large salary for his services during the tea season, of about two months, and is a gentleman of leisure for the rest of the year, residing at Shanghai or London or wherever he pleases. His business is to test the teas that are 394 ;h more rapid s, at least, five iteaniers make 11 Hankow, ia tea season. It 'er was full of lese are splen- > for the quick- afor the Lon- eleveii milium on dollars. :ry comes into shipped. The ific profession, affords a lucra- ;aster" usually during the tea iman of leisure i or London or he teas that arc DOWN rm: yangtse. 395 offered, and they are assorted and hranded according to his inspection. The tea production of China is quite different from that of India Here it is all raised on small farms, by the natives, and brought to market in small iiuantities by innumerable sellers ; whereas, in India, it comes in large quantities from great estates, which are all carried (m by English planters. The Hankow teas are usually black, and are of a superior quality, although we are disposed to think that they are in- ferior to the best India teas. The tea u aiy drunk in China by the natives is green tea. Tea-drinking is universal. The tea houses are every- where, and, for less than a cent, you can always get a cup of tea, in Chinese fashion. They put a few grains of tea in the bottom of your cup, and pour boiling water over them and then cover the cup and let it infuse. After two or throe min- utes it is fit to drink. To put cream or sugar in it would seem as strange to a Chinaman as it would to a Scotchman to put sugar in his oatmeal porridge. They drink this univer- sally, and think it very delicious and wholesome. A Chinaman never drinks cold water, and thinks it strange and dangerous for Europeans to do so. It is a great mercy that this is so, for the habits of the people are so filthy that were they to drink the raw water of their ponds and rivers, the whole population would certainly be swept away by cholera and other epidemics. The boiling of the water, in the form of tea, is certainly a wise and providential arrange- ment. As to the deliciousness of the tea, our experience was ! i 306 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. too brief to reach a favorable conclusion. Our friends told us we should soon come to prefer it to all other, but for the pres- ent, at least, we have about the same opinion of it as we should have of the Scotchman's porridge without the sugar. We were not surprised to learn that the China tea trade is suffering frt)m the competition from India. But it is still an immense business, and has made Hankow a great city, its trade last year, through the foreign customs, reaching nearly $50, 000, 000. We passed through some very beautiful scenery below Hankow. The hills of Wusui are quite pretty, and the "Lit- tle Orphan" is a picturesque island standing alone in the river in romantic loneliness. The hills at Kui-Kiang, over- hanging the Poyang Lake, and rising four or five thousand feet high, are rather fine, and afford a superb location for a summer hill station. The heat in July and August is said to be very great, and some of the workers occasionally need a change. Most of the missionaries find their best vacation in their country touring. A trip in a house-boat among the country villages, would be our favorite summer vacation. So far as heat is concerned, we have, so far, found none in China, and have suffered more from the cold than the heat up to this date, the beginning of June. But the sun is very strong, we believe, in the later summer, although bearing.no sort of comparison with India. We reached Wuhu on Wednesday morning, and spent three days with our brethren of the Alliance Mission in very important sessions for conference and prayer, and when we 1 ^ LANDS. f friends told us )ut for the pres- iou of it as we lout the sugar, ^hina tea trade But it is still w a great city, tonis, reaching [ scenery below r, and the "Lit- [ig alone in the Lui-Kiang, over- )r five thousand rb location for a lUgust is said to asionally need a best vacation in oat among the ler vacation. So found none in id than the heat b the sun is very ough bearing.no ning, and spent Mission in very jr, and when we r DOWN THE YANGTSE. 397 closed the conferences at the Table of our Lord on Friday night, and finally parted at the steamer hulk, on Saturday morning, we all felt that much had been accomplished, and that our Mission work in China was about to enter on the second chapter of its history, with nuich hopefulness and blessing. Our Mission in China has passed through peculiar trials, commencing with the death of Mr. Cassidy on his way to the field as its first pioneer and leader, and continuing from year to year, through some difficulties, chief of which has been the want of an experienced leader and a permanent organiza- tion. But we believe that God has carried our beloved friends safely through the early trials inseparable from every new work and that the Mission will now go forward, under well- matured plans and experienced leadership to sohd work and steady growth. We have now a party of sixteen American missicuanes in Central China, all of whom have more or less fully acquired the language and are ready to begin work. We have been able to arrange for their organization and distribution m such a manner as not only to provide for their highest usefulness, but also for the opening of the way for others who may fol- low them to the field in the immediate future. One of the very first necessities of the work is the ap- pointment of a capable and experienced Superintendent, not only for this field, but for all our work in China, and this has now been arranged to the satisfaction of all concerned ; and we rejoice tohope that henceforth our work in China will be, under 398 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY LANDS. God, under the direction of a wise and strong hand, able to give to it the care it requires and desires. Such leaders God has given us in all our other fields, and without the most compe- tent oversight on the field, our work in China cannot be carried on successfully. The success of the China Inland Mission is largely due, under God, to the wisdom, faith, and personal administration of men like Mr. Taylor, Mr. Steven- son, Mr. Bailer, and others whom God has specially fitted for these great trusts. The way is also opening for the distribution of our work- ers in a number of new stations. Two of our brethren are preparing to open a station south of Wuhu, and four of them have two new fields in view on the north side of Wuhu, in San-Ho, a city in the vicinity of Luchau-fu, on the Chow Lake, and Han-San-Hsien, a city farther east in the province. All these points have been visited by them and work begun, and they are most important centres of vast and yet unoc- cupied regions with millions of people. It would be premature to say that certain cities will be occupied ; for the opening of a new city in China is a very different matter from what it is in India. In the latter coun- try you can locate where you please, under British protection, and all you have to do is to go and rent or build a house. But in China it is a very different matter. You cannot go where you please. You cannot go anywhere without the good will of the people and the consent of the officials. You can visit a town and be well received, but when you come to rent a house, your difficulties begin. Many of the people might be 1 y LANDS. hand, able to give I leaders God has the most compe- China cannot be he China Inland isdom, faith, and lylor, Mr. Steven- ipecially fitted for ition of our work- : our brethren are , and four of them side of Wuhu, in -fu, on the Chow 5t in the province. and work begun, ast and yet unoc- ftain cities will be in China is a very In the latter coun- British protection, build a house. But u cannot go where hout the good will lis. You can visit ffou come to rent a le people might be DOWN THE YANGTSE. 399 willing to rent to you, but they are afraid. You might be turned out and the house destroyed by a mob. In some cases a man has been severely beaten by the Mandarin for renting a house to a foreigner. The present attitude of the Chinese officials is to allow as few stations to be occupied by foreign- ers as possible. Much tact, wisdom, and patience are neces- sary in opening new stations. The Canadian Presbyterians have been five years in get- ting two small stations opened in Honan, and in that time they have had several disturbances. The Swedes, near Han- kow, were escorted out of a city they had rented a house in, the other day. The Norwegians, on the Han River, had just been ordered to stop the erection of their new Mission house the week before we were in Hankow. The building of a foreign house in a new station is simply out of the question. It will be a great thing to get a native house leased, and we must not, therefore, be discouraged if our dear friends are a little while in getting settled in San-Ho, Luchau-fu and Han-San, and if they get marched out again more than once after they do get in. But they are going to put the sole o': their foot down on new ground, and we shall back them up oy our earnest pray- ers. The province of Ghanwhei, where they are settled, is a large and populous one. It is the least occupied by mis- sionaries of any of the Central Provinces of China. It had 34,000,000 people before the rebeUion, and may now have 20,000,000. It has five great Fu cities, of which only one, we believe, is occupied by missionaries. The Fu city is the 400 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. capital of a great provincial district. Next come the H'schien cities, like our country towns. Tliere are more than fifty of these in Ghanwhei, and not over half a dozen of them have missionaries. Besides, there are innumerable market towns of from ten to twenty thousand people, usu- ally the best places for a missionary centre. The field in Ghanwhei is about six times as great as the whole ])rovince of Berar, in India, and it will bo seen that there is ample room for many scores of laborers within it. The people are fairly friendly, and the means of communica- tion are very easy,— creeks and canals running past nearly all the towns, and enal)ling the missionary to reach the field and almost all his stations by boat. In this province we be- lieve God would have us concentrate for the present nmch of our China work, and aim, as in Berar, to occupy it fully, and provide for the speedy evangelization o'f all its towns and people. Wuhu is its principal commercial city — its best centre of operations. Here we shall have our headquarters, and from hence distribute our workers over the province. Here we propose to build a Receiving Home for new missionaries, where they may come immediately on their arrival, and spend six months in the study of the language and preparation for their future work. We were fortunate in being able, we believe, to secure a site for such a Home, and we trust, ere long, to have a plain and suitable building. Besides our work in this Province of Ghanwhei, the Lord has shown us that we must also prepare, on a moder- ^ i.A^ins. nou'.y THE vAscrsn. 401 '^ext comn the riiere are more er half a dozen ire innumerable ind people, usu- s as great as the nil 1)0 seen that borers within it. 3 of communica- ling past nearly reach the field province we be- present much of npy it fully, and 11 its towns and its best centre of arters, and from ice. ; Home for new idiately on their of the language e were fortunate r such a Home, luitable building. ' Ghanwhei, the )are, on a moder- ate scale, for future expansion to the interior and the farther West. God is very plainly loading some of our missionaries to the great closed field of Thibet, and Ho expects us iu faith and hope to begin to prepare a highway to that land, and all along that way to have a local work for China. Tlie way to Thibet, we believe, is two-fold : first, by way of Northern India, as we pointed out in our letter from Darjeeling ; and, secondly, through China, as recent events, which we shall immediately refer to, have perhaps shown. With a view to the opening up of work iu tlu^ West and the Northwest, and also of preparing a Une of communica- tion to the Western frontier, we have arranged for a station in Wuchang where the opportunity of securing a Home waa offered. Two of our brethren v/ill immediately occupy this great centre, and hold it for future developments. It is the natural centre of Interior China, and a grand strategic point, either for a movement westward along the Yangtse, toward. Shansi, Ichang or Sz-chuen ; or northwestward up the Han, toward Shensi and Kansuh, the great unoccupied provinces of the Northwest, and the hne of approach to Thibet ; or to the great province of Hunan in the South— the Gibraltar of China, and the one province in which no foreigner has yet been permitted to reside Our sisters in China will remain at Wuhu for the pres- ent, and engage in work for women. As soon as a country station shall have been opened, two of the young ladies have bravely decided to remove to it, and begin real evangelistic work. It is a little premature for many single ladies to go to China, until the way is somewhat prepared by men. "isr^ 402 LARCr.R OUTLOOKS ON MISSIOaWARY I. ANPS. At the nsk of seeming uncomplimentary, wo nniHt say- that we question whether many of our Atnerican young ladies are as well fitted for real pioneer work in new fields as their Enghsh sisters of the China Inland Mission, It involves very great privation and requires espc cial courage and train- ing to engage in tliis work, and the average Americriu woman is not equal to it, and will shrink from it when 8h(> gets to China. There are two kinds of work for lady missionaries in China,— one, in the treaty ports, where they can wear the European costume and live in European houses or good native ones, and have most of the comforts of life that they have heen accustomed to at home,— the other, in the interior, where they will he expected to wear the native dress, to travel native style, to sometimes eat native food, to face curious, impertinent and often rude crowds of men and boyc, and to live in houses where many of the odors are disagree- able, and such a thing as a fire in your room is unknown and impossible. We must say, from real investigation, that many of the ladies of the China Inland Mission do all these things, and undergo all these privations without complaint, and are con- sidered by those most f amiUar with the work of that Society, to be often the most successful and efficient pioneers in even the newest and hardest fields. All honor to these brave, self-denying women. We know they have been criticised, we know the wisdom of their course has been questioned by many, we know the com- wa ^ ifefe-. ' ■' I RV LANDS. ary, we must Bay American young rk in now fielda as ission. It involves courage and train- average Americnu from it when 8h<' dy missionaries in they can wear the ouses or good native hfe that they havo jr, in the interior, he native dress, to ative food, to face Is of men and boyc, odors are disagree- )m is unknown and I, that many of the ill these things, and plaint, and are con- ork of that Society, nt pioneers in even women. We know e wisdom of their kve know the com- DOn'N THE YANGTSE. 403 plaints of a few are often unjustly charged upon the many, hut after all we have heard and seen, we are satisfied that many of them are doing this sort of work and doing it well. But, at the same time, wo believe that no woman should at- temi)t it without fully understanding it, accepting all its con- ditions, and being specially j)repared for it and called to it. And we are bound to say that comparatively few of our American girls will be found equal to it, and none without a very real struggle and a very direct sense of the Master's call. The single item of winter fires will bring a test at the be- ginning. Many American girls are accustomed to a warm room heated to 00 or 70 degrees. The English girl is used to a cold room, and simply pads her Chinese dress a little thick- er and never minds. Then she is inured to long walks of miles, and can stand any amount of physical hardship to which her western sister has nevor been trained. These are, simply, facts that we have to look at either after we go to the field or before. At present our work in China is pioneer work. We are not far enough in to have many places prepared, so that our ladies can follow up the work of men. Our workers must go, like the men of Ephraim, into the thick wood and cut down for themselves. And, therefore, until we have opened up a number of new- stations and cleared the way for easier work by women for women, the great need of our work in China is men,— young men, unmarried men— men that love bold, aggressive work— men that expect to remain single, at least until they have cut their way through the earlier difficulties f 404 LAh'(.''f,* nf'TLOOK'S OX MfSSIOX.tny I.AXPS. f their field, and after, i)eihaiw, a fiw years' campaign have won their Jerichos and Hchrous, and Bucceeded in opening; u s. Uion on virgin soil ; not by "IniildinK on an- other man's fonndation," hut hy reaching out into "the regions heyond " and conijuering a kingdom all their own. These are the men wo want in China to-day. May God give us a hand of them ! And if there are any women, who, counting the cost, will dare to compete with them, and claim the honors ;uid prizes of such ])ioneer work, wo will not dare to forbid nor discour- age them. But we will frankly say that mdess they are pre- pared gladly and without (piestion to adopt the native dress, to forego many things that they have considered almost ne- cessities, and to press out into i)ioneor work as soon as they have acquired the language, they had better wait, or ask the Lord to lead them to India or some other field where the dif- ficulties in a woman's way are less formidable. There is another course, viz., to go out under one of the other Societies that are working in China, in older cities and centres, and have openings for woman's work, free from the disabilities and disagreeabilities which we have described. This is one of the temptations that will meet our girls on arriving in China. They will find many lady missionaries working for the heathen amid circumstances of comfort and social refinement, and they will wonder why they should be expected to fare differently. They may forget that there places of servif nxQ in old Missions that have been long opened bj the self-sacrifice and w • I./IXPS. years' campaign !i(l fiucceedod in building on an- ; out into "the I uU tlu'ir own. May God give ing tho cost, will onoi-s and prizes [bid nor discour- es9 they are pre- the native dress, dered almost ne- as soon as they wait, or ask the d where the dif- le. mder one of the I older ciuies and rk, free from the have described, noet our girls on lady missionaries s of comfort and y they should be lervii-o nre in old self-sacrifice and DOWN THE VANCrSE. 4^\S toil of oth 'S, Our work is not to go in and it up the fruit of their toil in the easy i)lacos. Our calling, as a S(»ciety, is to go to "the ri'gioi s beyond," "wIum' Christ bus m»t been named." And, unless we are prepared to face the risks of tbis kind of work, we are not W(»rthy of our trust. There- fore, we ai«4 calling for brave men who are willing to give themselves to this sort of work ; and, therefore, wo feel we should not impose it ui)<)n our sisterw, save in those excep- tional cases where a Deborah nrises to i^ut a Barak to shaine, and show that the weakness of (iod and of woman is stnug- «r than men. Sucha voman has just passed through China, and also America, on lier way to England. \^ o were two or three days behind her, and failed to meet h'>r personally, but we have heard her story from others who 1 ave had long inter- views with her. We had heard of her i lonths ago, at Dar- jeeling, and her friends then were expe( ting her to appear on the frontier of Thibet at the time w. were there. We refer to Miss Taylor, who has just emerged from Thibet aft.'r spending ten months in that long closed land. For many years this brave little Englishwoman has lad Thibet upon lier heart, as a great burden of faith and prayer, and she has felt that it never would be occui)ied until su-ae one had faith enough to " put the soles of their feet " upoi it and actually claim it in the name of Jesus. This she sas successfully done. , ni • Nearly a year ago. Miss Taylor passed th )Ugh Chma to 4o6 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. the Western border of Kansuh, one of the Northwestern prov- inces, and took her station on the border to watch her chance to get over into Thibet. Two or three times she was baffled by the vigilance of the authorities, but, hke a woman, she stuck to her purpose, aad, at last, one day, when the guards were sleeping, she slipped in. She was accon^panied by a Thibetan and a Chinese servant. She travels with these men as a female merchant, wearing the Thibetan costume. She found no difficulty from the Thibetans, whom she describes as very friendly, especially to the Enghsh. The only enemies she had to fear were the jealous Chinese officials, and, to a certain extent, the lamas or priests. Her purpose was to reach Lhassa, the capital, and pass through it into India at Darjeeling. This she thinks she might have done if she had not been betrayed by her Chinese servant, who, perhaps from fear of punishment in case she was detected, gave notice to the authorities of her character and plans, and a company of soldiers was sent to escort her back to China. But she had already succeeded in spending nearly a year in the country, and preaching the Gospel in many of its towns and villages. She believes that Thibet is open, and has just returned to England to raise a company of volunteer missionaries to go at once to Darjeeling, and prepare to enter from the side of India, which she agrees, with our formerly expressed opmion, in regarding it as the most hopeful side We trust our Thib- etan volunteers in America are getting ready, and that God will «oon give us also-as well as this brave woman-the de- sire of our heart. ^.-J 'Y LANDS. )rth western prov- ,vatch her chance s she was baffled ke a woman, she when the guards ccon^panied by a Is with these men m costume. She tiom she describes The only enemies officials, and, to a r purpose was to ;h it into India at VQ done if she had vho, perhaps from :ed, gave notice to and a company of ina. But she had ar in the country, owns and villages. s just returned to missionaries to go er from the side of expressed opinion, Nq trust our Thib- tady, and that God TQ woman — the de- DOWN THE YANGTSE. 407 Our two dear brothers, Messrs. Christie and Simpson, who came to China to prepare for entering Thibet, went down to Shanghai, and had a long interview with Miss Taylor. She encouraged them in their purpose to persevere in seeking to enter from China, while others, at the same time, are enter- ing from India. She strongly advised them to go to Peking and study Thibetan there, where numbers of Thibetans reside. We have encouraged them in this plan, and they will imme- diately remove to the capital, and with their fine knowledge of Chinese, will be able to do much good work, and, we trust, estabhsh a permanent station while spen(Mng the necessary time-about a year-in acquiring the Thibetan language. And so God has, in a most gracious and providential man- ner, fitted this also into our journey, and enabled us, in His light, to see light more and more clearly respecting His will for this great, closed land of Thibet, whose opening gates touch so clearly the portals of His coming. Praise the Lord ! Wo trust to find, when we reach home, that God has been speaking to some other brave and believing men about entering Thibet, both from the India and China side. We would be glad to have a score of the right kind of mission- aries, some for the India and some for the China baud. We have dwelt thus Trlly upon the plans and arrange- ments of our missionary work in China, that our dear people, who are our partners in all this work, may understand the situation fully, and be able to co-operate with intelhgence and profound interest, God is giving as five fields in this great land, viz. : first, 4o8 LARGER OrTLOOR-S OX Jtr/SS/OXARy LANDS. the great unoccupied province of Quangsi in the south; second, the large province of Ghanwhei, in the centre ; third, Wuchang as the point oi approach for tho west and the north- west ; fourth, Peking in the northeast, where oar sisters are laborii g ; and fifth, Shansi in the extreme north, where the Swedes are settling. And now, in connection with oui- Thib- etan work, we hope that the friends from Wuchr.ng and the friends from Shansi will yet meet, by converging li cs, away in distant Kansuh, and open two great highways, both from tlie west and the north, to the borders of Thibet ; liighwaya which w^e trust will yet be lined with Mission stations for the great cities of interior China all along the way. This is the vision. May the Lord Himself fulfill it, and hasten it in His time ! We took some walks into the coimtry around Wuhu. One of the first was to the little cemetery where William Knapp and Susie Beals lie sleeping, as pledges of China to Christ. It is a neat little enclosure, and we ordered two mod- est stones to be reared for those honored and loved ones. The whole country is one immense rice field. It is.extra- ordinary how much these Chinese get out of thtir land. They raise three crops a year off all their fields, and keep the soil literally saturated with manure. The cultivation of rice is very interesting. First, they flood the land, and while it is a great morass of mud and mire, they turn in their buffaloes and plows and harrows, and just mix it up into a perfect quagmire. Then the women wade in and plant the rice stalks, about six inches long, which had previously been '^ w i ijiJM! -WfB )' LANDS. i in the south ; ho centre ; third, >st and the north- e oar sisters are north, where the m with our Thib- i^'uchcng and the •ging h' GS, away ways, both from hibct ; highways n stations for the /^ay. This is the I hasten it in His Y around Wuhu. J where William dges of China to ordered two mod- d loved ones, fteld. It is.extra- thtir land. They md keep the soil ivation of rice is , and while it is a in their buffaloes up into a perfect lid plant the rice I previously been DOWN THE VANGTSE. 409 fi^.:tr-':. raised in a little nursery, and set them in rows in the mud, about six inches ai)art ; and so it grows until it ripens as the water gradually dn^s. A growing rice field has the most ex- quisite light green tint imaginable, and when the country is covered with these fields it is very pretty. As soon as the rice is harvested, they plant some other grain. Most of the rice fields we saw had been planted just after the har- vesting of their wheat and l)arley. We saw one very novel sight. It was a battle with an army of locusts. These pests are very numerous, and were as yet only half grown. As we walked through the fields we trod upon billions of them, as they literally strewed the ground and hopped about in clouds. They were about the size of small grasshoppers. The people were getting alarmed about them, and, one day, we saw a little army of men and boys stretched out in a long row, just like a regiment, and with long switches beating the ground before them, and moving forward in a solid line and CHINESE MODE OF iRRIQATINQ. ''I 5 si 4IO LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. driving the locusts in myriads in front of them. A httle distance in front they had dug a trench, and lighted a fire at the bottom of it, and into this trench the locusts were being driven where they would, of course, be burned to death. But it would take a great many trenches and great many- Chinamen to exterminate all the locusts we saw that day. Poor people, we pray God they may be saved from a locust famine this summer. We took a Chinese passage from Wuhu to Nanking, and some of our dear missionaries accompanied us. The accom- modation for Chinese passengers is very good and the fares low. We spent two very pleasant days in Nanking. It is the old Imperial Capital, and is great, even in its ruins. Its im- mense walls enclose a space more than thirty miles around, and two-thirds of this vast space is occupied by market gar- dens and graves. The present native city is not one-fourth its former size, although it is still a city of three hundred thousand inhabitants. Just beyond the city are the Tombs of the old Ming Dynasty, approached by an avenue of colos- sal elephants, carved out of single blocks of stone. Outside the gates also stood the beautiful porcelain pagodas, which were the wonder of Chinese architecture, but of which there remains scarcely a crumbling fragment. The city was, for thirteen years, the capital of the Tai- ping Ilebellion, and at the fall of that great movement, as well as at its inception, the destruction of human life was enor- mous. '•niii)»!ifc*; resorted to force in self-defence, and gradually gathering around him a band of enthusiasts like himself, ho boldly took up arms in defence of his claims, i^s his cause increased in strength, his fanati- cal claims grew more and more exalted, until, at length, he proclaimed himself the "Son of Heaven," and demanded im- plicit subjection to his authority as the official representative of God.' All who did not accept him and the new faith were put to the sword. Like a second Mohammed, he swept over Southern and Central China, and left behind him, everywhere, a track of blood and a holocaust of graves. He had a sort of Christian creed, and his armies marched to battle singing the Christian Doxology. His alternative was the Creed or the Sword. All who did not accent the Trmity, the Saviour and the Son of Heavon wore put to death. It was the strangest caricature of tho Glospel jh;Vu iV^e world ever saw. Ho alwayc professed ic be the frien<'' of the missionaries, and, again and again, beggod them to join him. One of thorn told us that when his army was encamped outside of Shang- liai, and his soldiers surrounded the mission property, and had free access to their deserted premises for weeks, not a thing was injured ; and on their return, after his troops re- tired, not even the smallest thing was missing. This extra- ordinary movement swept over all Southern and Central he doubtless truth, a great ions. Feeling 'on offered to ed to force in liim a band of 'nis in defence ;th, his fanati- I, at length, he demanded ini- representative lew faith were he swept over n, everywhere, [e had a sort of X\e singing the le Creed or the he Saviour and s the strangest w. e missionaries, >. One of them tside of Shang- property, and r weeks, not a r his troops re- g. This extra- a and Central DOir.V THE YANCTSi:. 4T3 China, carrying everything before it, and at length estab- lishiKl itself at Nanking, the old capital of a former dynasty. The imperial power was helpless before it, and to-day China would have been under its rule and have become a sort of mongrel Christian emi)ire, hud it not been for the great pow- ers of Europe which combined to suppress it, and especially for Chinese Gordon, who at last was the instrument by whom its power was broken and its capital was taken. Nanking bears the most tragic marks of the awful drama. It seems very strange, after thirty years, that half an empire should so quickly have recovered the doctrines of a Christianity which to-day it so detests. No doubt much of its success was duo to force. But that strange spectacle of the native accepting Christianity at the bidding of fanaticism is, at least, a figure and a foreglimpse of the day when China shall accept the Gospel at tnc invitation of the Meek and Ijowly One, the true Son of Heaven, whose only weapon is the Bible, and whose sole compulsion is the sweet constraint of love. Some have almost wished that the powers of Europe had not interfered, and that the Taipings had been allowed ta succeed. No, — God is wiser than men. A counterfeit Christianity would be worse than a blind and cruel Paganism. Christ can never accept a homage won by blood and tears, or a triumph gained by any other power than His own grace and love. The curse of Mohammedanism to-day is that it has incorpor- ated enough Christianity with its abominable fanaticism, ta seal the hearts of its votaries effectually against the Gospel. k^ if 414 LARGER or/ LOOKS OX M/SS/ON/I RY LANDS. Thank God, China has escaped the curse of a second Islam, and is still open to a pure Christianity. There is very much interesting and attractive Christian work in Nanking. It was opened many years ago by one of tho old veterans of the China Inland Mission, Mr. Duncan, who long lived and l:i')ored at tho most famous of its gates, tho Drum Towor. But this Mission has moved onto less- occupied fields, and the mission work of Nanking is all of a somewhat conservative type. We do not mean by this that it is not earnest, aggressive and thoroughly alive, for we have not met more congenial spirits and rr.oro earnest workers anywhere, but that it is of that type usually found in fields that have for some time been occupied, and where the work is carried on chiefly by the older societies and methods. Wo met with all the missionaries, visited several of their schools, hospitals and homes, and saw some of the native congregations. We listened vith delight to a rousing Chinese sermon by our dear brother, Mi. Ferguson, and felt it, if we did not understand it, and we could not fail to see the re- sponse on the faces of his hearers. We had the pleasure of preaching a little to them through ai\ interpreter, and we were permitted to address the missionaries on Sabbath even- ing, and to feel the deep response of their earnest hearts to our simple message about the supreme need we had of God Himself in all our life and work for Him. The Northern Presbyterians have an excellent work here, with a fine chapel and native congregation and several out stations. The Northern Methodists have also a beautiful Mm kU. y LANDS. a second Islam, •active Christian .rs ago by one of on, Mr. Duncan, lous of its gates, lovod on to less- nking is all of a lean by this that live, for we have earnest workers [y found in fields where the work d methods. \ several of their ne of the native rousing Chinese and felt it, if we ail to see the re- d the pleasure of erpreter, and we )n Sabbath even- sarnest hearts to d we had of God ellent work here, and several out also a beautiful nOirJV 77/A" VAXGTSE. 415 work, and our kind host and friend, Mr. FtTguson, showed us through their handsome now buildings, one of them the noble gift of our dear friend, Mr. Blackstone, and told us how his splendid school of more than sixty bright boys had all grown up in four short years. This Mission was once under the superintendence of Mr. Hart, at one time a si^cre- tary of our Alliance Mission. His pla(;e is now filled by Rev. Mr. Stevens, who has only been two or three years in China, and his success shows how a consecrated and judi- cious man, with a j)ractical training and experience at home, may be transplanted to the foreign field at once, and be greatly used of God in the administration of the work there, even in the absence of a long experience in the field. More and more we have learned, as wo have looked out upon the mission work of many fields, that a good superintendent i^ worth a score of workers, and is indispensable in any aggres- sive work. The Methodists have also a fine hospital under the care of Dr. Beebe and others. The Disciples have also a good work in Nanking, and our dear sister, Ella Saw, formerly Ella Funk, who has joined them, was there with her good husband to welcome us, and we found she made a very good little Disciple. She was happy in her home and her work, and had the same bright girl-face as of yore. God bless her, and make her a blessing to these dear brethren and to China I The Friends of America have also a Mission in Nanking under the care of Miss Butler — now in America. We felt at home as we saw the familiar face of our beloved brother. III P^BBBS'w«"t«»*''"=' • 4l6 I.ARCF.R OVTI.OOKS ON MISSION Aft Y I. IXPS. Asahol Hussey on tlio aviiU, and wore delighti'd to llnd that the beautiful building was bis noblo gift to the Mission. Our dear Bister, Miss Murray, was visiting ibis bomo at the tinio of our corning to Nanking, and bdping, temporarily, to till tbo place of Miss Butler. Wo visited ber large class of native women, and beard tbem repeat, witb astonisbing readiness, most of tbo fourteentb cbapter of Jobn in Cbinese. Tbeso Chinese bave astonisbing memories. Tbeir Bcbolara know- most of tbeir classical books by beart, and are astonisbed wben tbo missionaries cannot repeat tbo wbole Bible without the book. Altogether we bad a very pleasant visit at old Nanking, and were well repaid for our tramp of four or five mile» through the mud the next morning to reach our steamer for • Shanghai. The chief fault of Nanking is that it takes so long to get to it from the steamboat landing, and at this season, especially, there is almost constant slush and rain. On our way down we stopped at Chin-Kiang, the most beautiful city on all the river. Our stay was long enough to call on a dozen of the China Inland Missionaries at their Bweet Christian Home under the oversight of Dr. Cox, and also to meet some dear Southern Presbyterian brethren on their way to the interior. We could not help taking a long- ing look up the Grand Canal toward the distant home of our dear former student, Fannie Smith, now Mrs. Dr. Woods, but our time would not allow the long journey that it would take to reach her. But we were comforted at hearing from many old friends of her bright and blessed life in China, the / txns. ted to find that lO Mission. Our imo at tho time iiporarily, to ftU 50 class of native shing readiness, Chinese. Those V (scholars know are astonished lie Bihlo without at old Nanking, ur or five miles , our steamer for it it takes so long I at this season, 1 rain. Kiang, the most 3 long enough to ionaries at their of Dr. Cox, and rian brethren on lip taking a long- tant home of our kirs. Dr. Woods, ley that it would . at hearing from [ife in China, the '?S«i DOH'.V THE y.iyCTSE. 417 land, indeed, of her birth. Neither could ve tarry to visit the Ladies' Home of the C. I. M.. at Vangchow, as wo had hoped, but we received a kind letter, on our way down, from the lady in charge, and met at Chin-Kiang some of the dear girls with whom we had crossed the Mediterranean, five months ago. We have heard nuxrh of this hallowed place, and believe that to its influence is largely due, imder God, the wonderful vv ork which the ladies of this Mission are able to accomplish in the difficult fields of the interior. We took on board at Chin-Kiang some dear Norwegian brethren who came on with us to Shanghai, and with whorii we had Christian fellowship in the things of Christ and His work. Mr. Stevens, of Nanking, was also on board, and we had a short and pleasant sail under the care of the most ac- complished and agreeable Christian captain that we have met for many a day. And so, once more, we reached Shanghai, and were soon in the hands of hosts of friends and settled again in our little chamber in the blessed Home at Woosung Road, hurrying through our letters for the nett mail, and preparing for our next journey to the far North. We had been just three weeks up and down the Yangtse, and had got, at least, a glimpse of the great heai-t of China. XXIII. TO THE NORTHERN CAPITAL. OUK northern journey was delayed and almost pre- vented by an nnexpected detention in Shanghai through tlie serious illness and derangement of one of our Swedish brethren. We were glad to be there at this critical time, and that the responsibility was not left to fall wholly upon others, who had, perhaps, no right, save that of common discipleship and humanity, to bear it. The climate of Northern China is exceedingly trying to persons subject to nervous and brain diseases, and much care should be exercised in the selection of missionaries for this field. ' At length, after a delay of four days, we wore again at Be». in one of the many steamships that run between Shang- hai and Tientsin. We were on the Yellow Sea ; and, for at least a certain part of its course, it was worthy of its name. The outpouring of the Yangtse and the Yellow rivers have given its waters the tint of yellow mud, at least near the estuaries of these streams. It was moderately favorable weather, although bitter cold. We had some very congenial Scotch friends on board, missionaries of the China Inland Mission on their way to Chefoo, with their little children. One of the brethren was going to take charge of the excel- 418 JIWHBiJ.es r^-mm- TO THE NORTHERN CAPITAL. 419 *AL. md almost pre- )n in Shanghai mgement of one ) be there at this IS not left to fall ight, save that of it. jdingly trying to s, and much care isionaries for this Bve wore again at \ between Shang- Sea ; and, for at 'thy of its name, illow rivers have at least near the erately favorable ne very congenial ;he China Inland ir little children, irge of the excel- lent Boys' School at Chefoo, and the other, with his family, to take a season of rest at the China Inland Mission Sani- tarium there. We had a quiet Sabbath service together, and nmch i)recious Christian fellowship. Two days' sail brought us to the bold promontory of Shantung, and on Monday morning early we anchored in the harbor of Chefoo, and saw the pretty hills rising on every side of the lovely harbor, with many foreign buildings and missionary compounds and premises crowning their slopes. Away to the right we could see Temple Hill, the headquar- ters of the American Presbyterian Mission of North China, where Dr. and Mrs. Nevins has just invited us to visit them and their work, and whence Dr. Corbett had just returned to America to tell of the great blessing which God had been pouring out upon that most successful and substantial work. To the left was the hospital of the China Inland Mission, under the care of Dr. Eandall, formerly so well known to our people in New York. Just behind the bold hill, on the shore, were the Schools and Sanitoi-ium of the China Inland Mission. Their school boat, manned by a band of noble-looking boys from the school, was already coming oui to meet us, and soon our feet had touched the beautiful sandy beach and entered their hospitable doors. We had only time, while our steamer tarried, to sit down with a blessed company of missionaries to breakfast, and then to spend all the time we could with our two precious AlUance lambs,-Mabel and Bertha Cassidy, who are here at school. It was a mutual joy to meet them, and to find them happy, ^^^m^^^^f^m i^s^mmmm rr 420 LARCFR OUTLOOKS ON MrsSfOyARY LANDS. contented and making excellent progress in their studies^ while their record for good conduct was simply perfect. Mabel was as wise as a little mother, and Bertha was so like her own mother as to make the resemblance in her sweet little face almost anmsiug. Their dear mother is to spend her vacation with them here, and it will be a well-earned joy to all of them. This admirable school is a great privilege and advantage, not only to the families of the China Inland Mission, but to the children of all the missionaries in China. There are two distinct sections for girls and boys, and both are admirably conducted and highly appreciated by the whole missionaiy comnmnity. Chefoo is, probably, the healthiest place in China. It is a great summer resort for all the Europeans in the country. It is situated on a bold promontory, and open to the breezes of the ocean. It stands on a considerable elevation, and has pretty scenery and a beautiful sandy beach, reminding one of our of^ean resorts at home. Its native name is Yent-ai, and by this it is known on most of the maps. It is a treaty port, and famous as the place where one of our most import- tant treaties with China was signed. Its population is not large, perhaps 40, 000, and its foreign trade about $12,000,000 yearly. We were obliged to defer our visit to the Presbyterian and other Missions at Chefoo until our return trip from the North, and hurry again on board our steamer for Tientsin. Another day along the pretty shore of Shantung brought US to the mouth of the Peiho River. Getting happily over LANDS. TO THE XORTHERX CAPITAL. 421 I their studies^ simply perfect, tha was so like le in her sweet her is to spend well-earned joy great privilege le China Inland laries in China. hoys, and both ;ed by the whole the bar without delay, we had a seven hours' sail up the marrow and crooked river to the great Northern Port of Tientsin. There is a railway, the first in China, running be- tween Taku, at the mouth of the river, and Tientsin. But the ■oc(!rn steamers go up to the city, about sixty miles distant. The water is shallow, the channel is narrow, and the difficul- ties of navigation are very considerable. On our way down we ran ashore, and had to wait nearly half a day for the tide in China. It is in the country, to the breezes jvation, and has , reminding one lame is Yent-ai, It is a treaty ur most import- opulation is not bout 11 2,000, 000 he Presbyterian rn trip from the r for Tientsin, lantung brought ng happily over THE TAKU FORTS. to rise and hft us off. Sometimes the ships have to wait much longer. But the Chinese will do little to remedy these «vils. It was a great thing for them to suffer this much of a railway to be built at all, but very much of the trade still comes by the old and crooked river, and the difficulties in getting from the train to the steamer at Taku are so great that most of the passenger traffic comes through direct by steamer. Chinese railways are yet in a very immature in- 422 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON AflSSIONARV LANDS. ON THE PEIHO RIVER. fancy. There is one other being constructed on the Yangtsd by the Viceroy of Wuchang, to carry iron from a great mine, for the purpose of constructing railway ties ; and some day it is expected that a line will connect Peking with Han- kow. "H JO THE SORTHKKN ClI'I/.U.. 423 Notwitlistamling the many things that strike a foreigner as very far behind our Western Civilization, yet it must be recognized that this part of China has made gigantic- progress in a single generation. There is ahnost a daily line of ocean steamships between Shanghai and Tientsin, and many of them are owned by native Chinese merchants. There is one man in China who has given a greater impulse to Chinese progress than all others. That man is Li-Hung-Chang, the Vicei-oy of the Province of Chih-li, and the most inHuential statesman and business man in China. He is a very rich man, and owns large interests in all the ships and trading (!om- panies on the coast. He is the conti.lential adviser of the Emperor, and intimate with all the leading foreigners ia China. Li-Huug-Chang seems to be an enigma, like everythmg Chinese, and we have heard very opposite opinions about him and his attitude toward foreigners and Christianity ; but from all we have heard, we have no doubt that lie is an as- tute and most gifted Chinaman, who fully appreciates the value of foreign ideas and improvements, and desires to make all out of the foreigner he can for himself and his country, and at the same time give him as little power as he can help. By some who know him personally and intimately, we have been assured that he is not specially unfriendly to Chris- tianity, as he has been represented to be, and that Lady Li, so intimately Unked with the life and work of Dr. Mackenzie and Dr. Howard, in Tientsin, was undoubtedly at heart a sin- cere inquirer, and, it is believed by tlose who know her best, a disciple of Jesus Christ. ■ 31 i s 424 r.ARCF.R nr'Tf.ook's ox .v/.ssmx.tR}' /..ixp.'j. 1 1 P.ut wliile we liave been digressing and discnssing, we have got almost I'p the Peiho, to our destination. Yonder are the high, smoking (chimneys of Tientsin. Before we get there, let lis look about us, a moment, at the country through which we are passing. We are ascending a narrow serjten- tine stream, not more tliaii one or two hiuidred yards wide, and continually doubling on itself. Now it is north, now east, now south, and again due west, in its sinuous course. The country through which we are ])assing, is wholly differ- ent from anything we have yet seen. It is a purely farming district, strongly resembling a western prairie, when all the crops are gre?n. Oi-eans of verdure swee]) away to the hori- zon, millions of acres of wheat, barley, millet, Indian corn, beans, sweet potatoes, interspersed with peach trees in great profusion, and other foliage. It is really a pretty sight, and makes one think of home. The climate is very similar to that of one of our northern states, only a little hotter in sum- mer, aiad a little colder in winter. There aie thousands of villages all along the river bank, all neatly built of mud or brick, and usually roofed with tile. The people literally swarm, and they all have a fairly com- fortable look. The country peojjle of Shantung and Cbih-li, are usually a thrifty, industrious class of farmers, not un- Avortbv of comparison Avith the peasanty of many European countries. But here we are at Tienisiu, and again we recognize the foreign Bund, with the handsome European buildings, and its long front of business offices and warehouses. Probably /..I. YDS. (liscnissing, we ition. Yonder Before we get )untry through narrow Herjien- red yards wide, is north, now ft, Indian corn, h trees in great •etty sight, and very similar to hotter in sum- the river hank, oofed with tile. re a fairly com- ng and Chih-li, irmers, not un- iiany European e recognize the buildings, and ises. Piobably 'I CHINESE SLIPPER BOAT Reproduction from b Chiiiest I'iiiiiliiiK rl TO nil: .Si>Niiii:K.\ i .irrr.u.. 425 it ranks tliitd aftHi- Haiikou and Hhangliai as a Treaty Port and (toinnu'rcial contn!. . Its fonMgn trade, as estimated by tlie Customs' returns, amounts to ^:17,(>oo,0(K), and tlie vast native (ntv lias a population of 5oo,(mmi. It is the homo of Li-Hung-Chang, and wo passed his palace, which is simply TIENTSIN. a large collection of low, plain-looking buildings, enclosed behind a high wall. He is said to live in great simplicity, and requires his sons to do the same, while he has several luxurious apartments furnished in foreign style for his nu- merous visitors. 4^6 l.ARCER OI'TLOOk'S OX MfSSrONARV L.IXDS. We wore met by Mr. Clark, of the China Inland MiHHion, and very hospitably entertained. Wo shall lf>ng retain the roost delightful reiiollectiona of TientHin and its blessed mis- sionaries. We had a two-fold opixtrtunity of meeting them, both on our way to and from Peking. Ou these occasions we had two delightful publitt meet- ings with them, and several opportunities of seeing them I)er8onally, and we found much reason to tliank God for their spirit and their work. This is the business centre (»f the China Inland Mission for Northern China, and will have to be ours also if we are to carry on much work in the Northern Provinces. Tientsin in the North, and Wuchang or Han- kow in the West, are the natural headquarters and jjoints of departure for the great northwest, the most unoccupieuri)ose of hosi)ital improvement . It was found that Dr. Mackenzie had never secured proper papers conveyin- the i)roperty. and the Viceroy sue- ceeded in oatablishin^ his claim to it, although it was re- gariied as an act of great injustice and seltishness by many. It is still carried on as a Chinese Hospital under native phy- sicians employed In- the Viceroy. The London Society has built a new hospital, and we were glad to learn that a nmcli larger number of patients come to it than go to the native hospital across the street. Dr. Mfickenzie was a most remarkable man in every way, and the sweet savor of his life lingers in Tientsin on every side. He was an extraordinary physician, but a more extra- ■■'-358SWi'i' 428 LARGER OUTLOOKS O.V MLSSLOXARV L.lXns. ordinary missionary. His medical work was distinc-tly sub- ordinate to tlie great work which insi)ired his heart, — the evangehzation of China. We are glad to say that God has raised up a successor worthy of him. Dr. Koberts, of the London Mission of Tientsin, and the associate and successor of Dr. Mackenzie, is one of the most remarkable men we have met abroad. Surely he had found his predecessor's mantle, and he has filled his place, even in the estimation of those who most admired Dr. Mackenzie. Without dispara- ging any of the many devoted medical missionaries we have met in China, nor the higher value of the Lord's own heahng, we cannot help saying that the practical value of such a mis- sionary is beyond computation. His .gentle, humble spirit, his fervid piety and unction, his love of souls, his magnetic enthusiasm for the glorious work of missions, are far more noticeable than his distinguished ability as a physician, and he values his profession as an agency for interestin;; the Chinamen in Christ and the (xospel. He has a valuable associate in Mrs. King, of the same Mission, formerly so well known as Dr. Howard, of the M. E. Mission of America. It was she who attended Lady Li, iu lier illness, and she was as signally used in that remarkable providential opening, i>erhaps, as even Dr. Mackenzie. We were glad to have the opportunity of meeting this dear worker and spending a little time at her home. She is now the wife of one of the most prominent missionaries of the London Society. Mr. King, of Tientsin. We are so glad that her humble, self-denying piety and devotion are more l )' /..l.\7KS: ,s distinctly sub- l his lieart,— the lay that God has Roberts, of the ite and successor larkable men we liis predecessor's he estimation of Without dispara- iiouaries we have rd's own healing, ue of such a mis- e, humble spirit, uls, his magnetic ons, are far jnore ) a physician, and r intorostin;;^ the Cing, of the same oward, of the M. ended Lady Li, in 1 that remarkable Mackenzie. We leeting this dear er home. She is lit missionaries of We are so glad ievotiou are more TO THE SORTUh.RX C.lPfT.U.. 4291 conspicuous than even her professional success. She has en- tire charge of what is knowji as Lady Li's Hospital for Women, and this, we are glad to say, is still the hospital of the Mission, having been erected happily on Mission ground. We were glad to be able to ask her many things about the' distinguished family she had such opportunities of knowing, and it was a great gratification to hear her say that while Lady Li had not formally professed Christianity before she died, yet she expected some day to meet her in heaven. We had the opportunity of attending a Sabbath morning service in the London Mission, and saw one of the brightest and most interesting native congregations we have yet wit- nessed. We are afraid we looked more at the costumes of the ladies than we recommend our people to do at home, but the headdresses of the women were so different from any we had seen, that we must ho)je to be, at least, leniently judged. The girls, of course, as elsewhere, all have a braided cue hanging behind. But the married women have their hair tied in a knot behind, and then an extraordinary curved fig- ure, like a great sweeping plume, or more like the tail of a pheasant, sweeping behind and giving their heads the av>pef tr- ance of a splendid bird in flight. Brilliant rosettes or flowers, and a great profusion of jewelry, finished the picture, and made these women a sight sufficient to turn the head of an American daughter of fashion. We are afraid the daughters of Tientsin are not yet up to the apostolic standard on the dress question, but they say that a Chinese woman would feel as much disgraced if she went without her jewelry, as she would without her clothes. ■1! 430 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MLS'S/ONARV LAXDS. We had the pleasure of speaking a Uttle to this audience, through an excellent interpreter, and with a good interpreter we found that, by using a simple line of thought, and some striking incident or illustration, we could always be fairly understood, and meet bright, responsive faces and hearts. Among the other missionary societies represented in Tientsin are the American Board, the M. E. Church of America, and the New Connexion Methodist Church of Eng- land. We visited them all and were received with the great- est courtesy, and learned of nmch encouraging work in their midst. Indeed, the work in North China is in a more hope- ful condition than in any other section. Our space will not permit us to speak particularly of all. We were invited to meet with the missionaries of the various societies, and ex- plain the principles and methods of our work. There has been naturally much misunderstanding about our Alliance, and especially in connection with the large parties of Swedes that have recently passed through Tientsin on their way northward. W^e were glad to have the opportunity of ex- ])Ounding our principles and methods, and receiving the cor- dial assurance of their sympathy and co-operation. Rarely have we felt more unity of spirit or received greater kindness. When they found that we were to leave the following day for Peking, and had not yet secured a Chinese interpreter for the long overland journey which would be so difficult for one who could not speak a word of Chinese, two of the mis- sionaries at once offered to leave their work and come with us, and our business man offered to send his office boy. We !Ry LANDS. i to this audience, a good interpreter bought, and some always be fairly :es and hearts. es represented in M. E. Church of st Church of Eng- ed with the great- ging w^ork in their is in a more hope- Our space will not rVe were invited to } societies, and ex- work. There has ibout our Alliance, 3 parties of Swedes tsin on their way opportunity of ex- i receiving the cor- operation. Rarely (d greater kindness, eave the following Chinese interpreter d be so difficult for 3e, two of the rais- )rk and come with his office boy. We ro THE NORTHERN CAPITAL. 431 accepted the otter of one of these dear brethren, Rev. Dr. Bryson, of the London Mission, and we soon found what a *' friend in need, and a friend indeed," he was, and how well- nigh impossible it would have been for us to get on without him. Wednesday morning, at daybreak, found us on our way to Peking. Our outfit consisted of two Chinamen, four » CHINESE CAB. mules, two carts without seats or springs, a roll of bedding, and a basket of provisions for a two days' journey. That ride ! WeU, we will not be able to describe it. We had rid- den forty-five miles at a stretch, and as much back again the next night, in a Coolie cart in India. But that was on a road as smooth as a floor. But this Peking road was unlike any road we have ever known or seen described, or imagined. It led sometimes through great pools of water, up to the hubs, '■*SfeSW.SK.?!?>¥*'W** 432 LARGER OVTLOOKS ON MISSIOXARY LAXPS. and again over stone roads broken up into gieat lioles two feet deep, through which our cart tluimped and bumped like blows from a maul ; and yet again more f recpiently it was cut into deep ruts down literally to the hubs. It seemed as if all the generations of China had gone before us in these ruts. And with a strange fascination the driver would insist on always keeping the wheels right in the bottom of the rut. Often there was a smoother i)lace beside it, but -oh ! no, it would never do for a Chinaman to get out of the rut his pre- decessor had gone in before. We came soon to look on our mule driver and our journey as typical of the Chinese nation and Chinese history-C/i/na in a rut ! That is just what has been going on for four thousand years. China is doing what it always has done. The same sort of carts, with the same sort of mules, and the same sort of Chinamen, have been go- ing in the same sort of roads in the same sort of way since before the time of Abraham. The Chinaman never wants to change anything. If a bar is at the mouth of a river it must stay there ; if a house is abandoned it must be left to faU down at its pleasure ; if a man falls into the river he must not be disturbed or interfered with ; if a road was good enough for your father it is good enough for you ! Well, we started. There was nothing for it but to prop yourself up as well as possible with pillows in the bottom of the cart and try to find a Roft spot somewhere. And so it began to bump and thump, from side to side, until first our back seemed on the point of dislocation, and then our insides to be shaken like buttermilk in a churn, and then our head J' I.AXDS. "1 great lioles two and bumped like f reciuently it was bs. It ^5eemed as efore us in these river would insist )ottoni of the rut. t, but— oh ! no, it [)i the rut his pre- )n to look on our he Chinese nation it is just what has lina is doing what rts, with the same len, have been go- sort of way since lan never wants to 1 of a river it must ust be left to fall the river he must a road was good for you ! ; for it but to prop )ws in the bottom jwhere. And so it nde, until first our nd then our insides and then our head I BUFFALOS AND CART. KcprocUiclion IVom a CliilH'--t I'liinliiig s m ■Jll Tin: .VOKTZ/KK-V CA/'ITAI.. 433 that L c„v,l,l not think ,:lea,-ly. m„l th. .uu«- os "« " ' "^^ "^ of ,„„■ neck a,hea a» if th.y luul been V-^^'^^, '"^ ana, inde«,l, our whole sy.ten> felt exactly hke a .a n st feel after he had been shaken by a temer. lalk ot sea^^uk ;;:;! It is abed ,.f down to a Peking .cul and as„ell of .a.t "*"weU, we had twenty miles of it befo.e-' tiffin," and a .e,.ysmaUan.ountof cooking sumeed to -t.sfy onv ..^W ItoL-hs and then we had twenty .niles n.ore after t.Biu : tU w .'eached the Chinese inn about dark, .here wo were to dine and rest for the night. It w.« a very fa.v .nn much letter than we expected, an,l we got out our baske and infused our tea and cooked our eggs and nee, and ti.cdto el : r "ten ;orized dinner, and then lay down on our Te Iding on the Chinese benches they call beds. But oh -. the ::r„;:fingbraiu.andthe,,.— ^^^^ :tr;;:^d!::c^~urkrfot:ta^ rfon T lite And at length we fell .«leep praismg pmymg, gfonsuch journeys for twelve and twenty days at a fme into the vast interior. We were awakened, after four hom-s of sleep, at two o'clock in the morning, to begin another day of sundar travel^ "inf We got off a good while Wore dayhght, and about fou; o'Ick we were cheered by a glorious sunnse. All day 1 ' I 434 /..fAVVAA' Ol'TLOOk'S OX MrsS/ONARV /.AXDS. \\ %.>\^ U fi! if long we rattled on, btopi)ing only for lunch, until about sun- set we saw before us the gigantic walls of Peking, and knew that our long journey of eighty miles and thirty hours of cart traveUing was almost ended. The second day wo were not nearly so tired. Our system seemed to have got used to it, and we felt that after a few days, with a good deal of grace and patience, one could get inured even to a Chinese cart. But as we looked at that splendid Capital, we felt that it AVfxs an (Hitrage that the metropolis of tlie greatest Empire on earth should liave such an approach to it. The country through wliich we had passed was most interesting. It was puiely a farming district. But such farming ! We wish some of the fossil farmers of the west, who have worn out their land by ignorance and stupidity, could only come and see one of these so-called barbarians till the soil. Every scpiare inch of ground for miles, and hundreds of miles, is covered with the most beautiful and luxuriant veg- etation. Every sort of grain and vegetable is raised in the greatest profusion and perfection. Not a weed is to be seen nor an inch of waste or neglected ground. Between the rows of wheat and corn something else is planted,— melons, pumpkins, beans, sweet potatoes, or some other vegetable to come on when the other is cut down. Three splendid crops a year are raised even in this far northern climate — the lati- tude of our northern States -and yet the land is not exhaust- ed. It is all most carefully fertilized, and every crumb of manure is gathered and put back into the soil. The culture II \T f.ixns. li, until about sun- Poking, and knew lul tliirty liours of cond day we were ,0 have got used to ith a good deal of even to a Chinese ital, we felt that it e greatest Empire it. passed was most listrict. But such ■mers of the west, mce and stupidity, ailed barbarians till niles, and hundreds and luxuriant veg- ible is raised in the weed is to be seen und. Between the s planted, — melons, } other vegetable to liree splendid crops •n climate — the lati- land is not exhaust- rid every crumb of e soil. The culture TO THE AOKT/IER^' CAPllAL. 435 A CHI^JESe FARM HOUSE. is mostly by hand, and the whole land looks like a luxuriant garden We saw no trees except orchards till we reached the neighborhood of Peking, and then we began to find some groves of forest trees. There were a good many wild flowers along the wayside, especially daisies of many colors, a few prinxroses and a great many varieties of the dwarf convolvu- lus. in LAKCER Of^Tr.OOk'S O.V .1f/SS/0\'.fUV rANPS. Tho poasantry seemeg to assure our and that it -will ( man or woman hey are, at least, ). We went up, nd found the top ich you could go walls at ceitain •es, like massive xty feet above eat magnificence ranie and general and has about it '^ou get inside and ig all other cities, place in China, viz. : the Chinese, lowever, is hardly (Hached from the )uth side, enclosed tiaps, five by three uarter and half a TO THE SORTIII.KS' ( WPITAI. 437 million. The Tartar m\i's.-^'V^,'^'^*ft'nvr-^ ^1:1 ! 1^ 440 /-'A'6Y:A' m'Tf.oohs OX MfSsroxAh'v f.A.wns. cept to prayer \n the temples, and then all the cross streets opening into the line of his niarcli are boarded up that no eye^ may he permitted to desecrate his sacredness hy an un- hUlowed gaze. He has a lake and a steam yacht and a little railway to a.uuse himself with, and a great household who minister to his pleasure. They say he does not love his Em- press, and, perhaps, there are no sorer hearts in Chma than those that ache behin.i those Imperial walls. A veil of deep, impenetrable mystery surrounds him. Few foreigners now ever enter this Imperial City, and so we saw as much of it as most people ever will. We were glad we could look down lip ai it from above. We felt that day that we were a great way above that poor little sickly king and all his silly, sacred baubles. We found our dear missionaries waiting to welcome us. l^Iiss Duow had recently purchased the premises which she had been renting for some time. It certainly was a wise purchase. Think of getting an enclosure in the heart of Peking, containing nearly an acre of ground, and covered with many courts, buildings and chambers, with, at least, ov.>r twentv different apartments, for the sura of !i^l,400, land and all. We should have thought it ridiculously cheap at '$U,00«>, and in New York it would easily bring $1+0,000. They had fixed it up neatly and simply, and altogether it was as comfortable and suitable a Mission Home as we had seen in China. It was, formerly, the residence of the Epis- copal Bishop. Miss Funk had recently returned to America, but Miss yi£ ')■ f.A.\'DS. the cross streets aded up that no edness hy an un- yacht and a little it household who not love his Eni- ■ts in China than \. A veil of deep, w foreigners now V as much of it as could look down ■j we were a great all his silly, sacred ig to welcome us. remises which she tainly was a wise B in the heart of ound, and covered )ers, with, at least, sum of ^1,400, land iiculously cheap at ily bring $1+0,000. ^, and altogether it )n Home as we had idence t)f the F.pis- . America, hut Miss TO Till-: .\ORTlir.KS lA/'/T.ir.. 441 Duow, Miss Gowans and Miss Myers wciv well and happy. They I'lad all grown ptMce|)til)ly, and Miss Duow ai)peai-ed to great advantage with her former experience, her knowledge of the language and people, and the excellent business quali- ties which her responsible situation had required her to de- A STREET IN PEKING. velop. Tlie younger ladies had fairly acquired the language, and Miss Gowans was teaching an interesting class of girls, and having a meeting of women, both of which were hope- ful, while Miss Myers was taking charge of the Home, and doing what work she could in her leisure hours. Miss Duow \ •f?'\ ]("it is*;: 443 LARGER OVri.OOKS OX .VfSS/OX.I R )' LAX^S. has an excellent meeting of CJliinese v/onien, and we were re- joiced to hear that a lady-the wife of an official, and her daughter -had lately been baptized, and that another old lady desired baptism and she believed was truly converted. Even such fruits as these, in so short a time, mean a great deal in China. There is room for two or three more ladies in this work, and Miss Duow is an anging for their coming. Our dear friends are nmch respected and beloved by the other missionaries, and on the second evening of our visit we had the pleasm-e of meeting nearly all the missionaries of Peking in their home, and, after some pleasant social fellow- ship, of explaining to them our work and aims. This was especially necessary in Peking, as there had been a good deal of concern respecting the Swedish missionaries and nmch misunderstanding. We cannot thank God enough for per- mitting us to visit China at this very time, and enabling us to remove the most serious misapprehensions from the minds of the best of men, and bring our woi-k and workers into a place of the most blessed confidence and sympathy on the l»art of so many whose fellowship is so invaluable. Tlie Spirit of God was present in our meeting, ar.d all our hearts were touched and drawn together in Him, and we felt that God had given lis precious and lasting friends in that great Imperial capital. But, better far, we felt that together we were able to look out on all that vast Empire with one faith and one heart, and put down the soles of our feet upon it and claim it all for Christ, and that its evangelization should soiuehow be prepared before the generation should have passed away. • /..I. VPS. ind we were re- aflficial, and lier another old lady inverted. Even a great deal in •e ladies in this xnniiig. 1 beloved by the ^ of our visit we niissionarieg of mt social fellow- aims. This was been a good deal aries and much enough for per- and enabling us 3 from the minds I workers into a iynipathy on the Inable. eting. and all our Him, and we felt r friends in that felt that together Empire with one of our feet upon ts evangelization ;eneration shoidd TO HIE \oN ini:KS CAPirAi.. 443 In this little company were our dear brethren of the American Presbyterian Missica ; the Methodist Mission repre- sented by Dr. Lowrie, Superintendent; the American Board, represented by the venerable Dr. Blodgett ; and the London Mission- all the Societies laboi-ing in Peking. We had greatly desired to meet good Dr. Blodgett, the oldest missionary in this part of China, and were rejoiced ti> find him waiting for us on our arrival at Miss Duow's, and also to have the pleasure of spending some time at his own hospitable home the following day, and learning much that we could not otherwise have learned of Peking and Northern i^ IT inn We were able to mak.? arrangements for tlie coming to Peking of our Thibetan missionaries for the study of that language, and we found that there was a Thibetan temple at the North Gate, with a number of Lamas, among whom it would not be difficult to obtain a teacher. We had as much conference with our own beloved work- ers as the time would allow, and left much encouraged about their future work. It was but a brief day, but. like the Transfiguration hour, its light will linger all the days of toil and time, and when time and Peking, too, shall have passed away. , , , i The following morning found us up at three o clock, and after a loving leave-taking, on our way on two superb don- keys to the City gates. AVe found them open with the day- light, and we hastened on with our donkeys fourteen miles to Tung-chow. We had resolved to change our route return- 444 I.ARCKR OCTf.OOk'S OX /l//SS/OX.'1 AT L.hV/)S. ONE OF THE INNER GATES, PEKINO, ing,and take a boat at Tung-chow down the river to Tientsin, believing that with the downw-^ard current and the wind in our favor, we could make better time, and by travelhng day and night, reach Tientsin in time to catch the next morning's .steamer for Shanghai. Four hours brought us to Tuiig-choAV. As we passed out a>L >x river to Tientsin, ; and the wind in l)y travelling day le next morning's As we passed out TO THE XOKTIIEKX i.ir/T.U.. 445 of the Peking g-.tes we nu>t Imndreds of men hurrying in with their inuuense loads of vegetahles on their l)ac-ks, .larried in two great l)askt>ts halanet-d on a hamhoo pole. They were trotting along under their inuuense loads, and the sweat pour- ing down their faces. We felt they vvere, indeed, the sons of Adam and the children of toil. Little wonder that from such toil even " John Chinaman " sometimes shrinks, and that Pek- BRIDQE NEAR PEKINQ. ing is a city of beggars. We saw a bridal procession on the streets of Peking, in which three hundred beggars, dressed in gaudy robes of blue and crimson, over filthy garments and unwashed persons, were carrying magnificent presents, be- hind a band of music, to the home of a fashionable bride. They got a few cash for the occasion, and found it easier than honest work. A friend in Peking told us that a situation was obtained ^P;i 446 LARniiK OUTLOOKS OS' MrsSlOXANY LAMKS. for one some time ago, and he went to work for a few day at good wages, but soon after he was found back at his old station on the "Beggars' Bridge." When asked if he had lost his job, he said " No." He had given it iip ; and when l)ressed for the reason, he replied: -'I can stand cold and heat, I can bear luniger and rain, but there is one thing I can- not Jndure,and thatis-to be tired." It is said that 17,000 of them died of cold and starvation last winter in Peking, but so vast was the mnnber that they were not even missed. We reached Tung-chow at eight o'clock, and had the jdeas- ure of breakfasting with our friend, Dr. Sheffield, and meet- ing Miss Andrews, sister of one of our dear Alliance workers in Cleveland, Ohio-beside others. We received a very cor- dial note of welcome from Dr. Goodrich, another honored laborer of the A. B. C. F. M. here, who was absent at the hills We could not tarry to visit the college and other build- ings here, but were glad to hear of their great prosperity. We had to hurry on the way. And so, good Dr. Sheffield took us down to the river, where we found our baggage wait- ing US-sent on the previous day from Peking by cart, and a boat already secured. Making a bargain in Chinese style, and agreeing wi1;h our boatman to give him so much more if he got us in ahead of time, and requiring him to take on four extra rowers, we got into our little cabin, and clearing the shore, and saying "Good-bye," we were soon off on the Peiho River. Our boat was a small affair with a roof of mat tmg about six feet wide and twelve long, and just high enough to stand iL_i ■ - v»»«V?S*TiX*iM*'»'. ■^ oik for a few day lul back at his old X asked if he had 1 it ui> ; and when m stand cold and is one thing I can- said that 17,000 of ter in Peking, but , even missed. , and had the jdeas- leffield, and rueet- r AlHance workers ::eived a very cor- i, another honored was absent at the ;ge and other build- great prosperity, good Dr. Sheffield I our baggage wait- iking by cart, and in in Chinese style, m so much more if him to take on four , and cleai'ing the re soon off on the )of of matting about gh enough to stand 7< > Tin: M >h' rHEKX < . / /'/ /• / /. . 447 lip in But it was a good dt'al easier than oui I'ekijig cart. The current and thf wind were both in our favor. And ho, with our sail up we dashed on, sometimes at the rate of weven or eight miles an houi'. Hut the river was very crooked, so that a distance of sixty-five miles, in an air line, took us over one Inmdred and thirty miles by the river's tortuous course. ('onse(iuently. we often found ourselves running against the wind, and obliged to take down (»ur sail and get our men at the oars. Hut we really got on very well, and ac- corapli.shed a voyage, which usually takes two or three days, in twenty-tw«) hours, and we both felt that it was "the good hand of our God upon us.'" Chinese boats are always interesting. In Central China, especially those that come from Ningpo, they usually have two great eyes at the head of the bt»at, which is shaped like the head of a fish or dragon. The Chinaman's explanation in pigeon English is, " If he no have eyes, he no can see, he no can walk." Our boat had no eyes, but its captain and crew kept their eyes open and rowed and sailed night and day. A few extra cash will make a great dill'eience in the amount of work a Chinaman can do. It was very interesting to sit on the little deck that night, as the stars came out and the little boat swept down that lit- tle winding stream in Northern China, and listen to our friend as he talked to these simple-hearted men about the Lord. When the wind was favorable, and they did not have to row, they would sit, Chinese fashion, and listen with open mouths and eyes and ears, and expressions of w onder and de- ^^siyiff^ssET^—^-'^'- ' 1 m hARci'.R ofrr.ooh's ox .u/ss/ox.ia'v /..i.vds. Ijf'' « tc.ia them of th. Loi'l Tesus walking on the sea .^M HtmirK the tonipeHl . When th.' win.l wont .h.wn it was aiuuHing to h..ivi- thnn wlnstHng to it, Uke an Kngh^h tar, and trying to make it come, and when he explain., lo them that the wind rould not hear them, th.y listened and won- dered, hvit 8till kept whistling all the same. As we looked into their giv lact., ». r wished we could speak Chinese, and we asked that somehow they might he enahled to understand the (Jospel of Christ. But their minds are very dense ; the power of old super- stition is very strong, and it has to he "line upon line and precept upon precept. ' ' Sometimes these hoat journeys are very dangevou . < >nly this week a lady missionary told us how she and a friend hul lately been attacked by river pirates at night, and while a sword was hehl to .nich of their throats, their persons and trunks had been rifled and robbed .f all their valuabli ., and their lives had only l>een saved by complete and instant sub- mission. Most of the interior rivi'i s are infes* ' with pin. os. They seldom at ack a boat with foreigners in ii, as they fe foreign fire-arms ; but it usual for missionaries to an at nig!.t beside one of the nativ^. gunboats that, w are . ''1. are to be foun- all along the river shores. \ad ye« aese nicive gunboals are rather laughaM". They havJ only one gun, and it is a fixtui in the si m, so f^,r^ it has to be sighted by turning the boat round toward the object to bo aimed at, and holding it steadily by mea.is of the oars. Indeed, they say they seldom sh .t anythm^ more r /..IXVS. IkiuK on t>i<' sea »nt down it v« aH an Kngli^h tar, I)laim'' i(»theni skned and won- As we looked ?ak ChinjiHe, and ?d to \it\«l«'r8t;ind ver of old Hnper- 10 upon line and dangornly and a friend h.ul ght, and while a t,heir persons and Bir valnabii ;, and and instant sub with piruies. in u, as they f ea • ionaries to an .^ that, w<' are uoJd, rather langhahle. 1 in the si m, so lOut round toward mdily by mestiis of )t any thin tr more ;"'3fSSSS! •SWdB'- m f 11 ^i ui. ■ ■;Si^\«G9i£*e««!»-TiT™'«'^ TO TIN. XORTnihW (.triTAL. teriihlo than a l.i^^ liiv .ru.tker. 'I'lwy aiv. l.ow..vei-, very iiu inercniH, himI sullicimit to givu fair piutwtion to life and pro|)«!rty. 'I'iifouKli tlie protection of a Stroiigor Arm. we safoly rea(lu'' "-'y ~^j;«t' ana the ve., largest „. '^em^- ... ov„^^^^^^^ while Yunnan, ^i^'"^;^^"':^Z^,. .„,,0«.V.e0 a millions each. Upon the xMioit., wc very full estin.ate, and shall not u. future P-^f * f ^^^ ChL is, probably, Just about as populous as Ind.a, and not "^^wLchinaisstin..utherut,-'yetsheisget.n^ nf it Her progress in a single generation has been vei) ^el^L^fetwome^^hC^^Hoa.^^^ and the \ angise. j- ^^ ^^^^^ j.^. "- T' 'c:" r.,r.:.;»";.i..".«- from the mme to the m ei, ^^ Peking. The ^isfor a yet longer "'« ^^ "^^ ..^ I !.hv,«ly railway that now runs from iaRu ^fj^f^»^ 456 f.jh'ar.h' ofrr/.ooA's ox Ar/ssmx.iA'V /..ixns n\ being extended further north, apd will ultimately connect with the Russian lines, which are fast being completed to the Pacitic coast. Should this all come about, the entering wedge will have gone too far to recall, and it will not he long till it will open up the great western pi-ovinces, and give us direct railway communication from China to Loudon in twelve days. And yet it must not be supposed that any of these indi- cations of Chinese progress He very near the surface. It seems, indeed, to a general observer the slowest country in the woi-ld. It is dreadfully conservative. A map of China, prepai-ed and published by the Chinese, is the funniest sight imaginable. The Celestial Country occupies about two feet square. Then along the edges are little strips about an inch long and a quarter of an inch wide, representing the other countries that lie somewhere beyond "the Great Desert," or "the Great Sea." We tried to persuade a native a* Tatung that we had been traveUing east for five months, and after going on in the same direction about two months longer we should reach the point from which w^e started, and we explained it by the statement that the world was round. He looked at us with an amused expression and then turned away, as nmch as to say . " Well— you don't expect me to beheve that, do you ? " To one who is looking for the picturesque and beautiful it is very disappointing. There are places to be found ex- ceedingly beautiful, and even grand. But most of China is commonplace and monotonous. Even the pagodas and pretty )■ /..ixns iiniately connect completed to the ; wedge will have g till it will open IS direct railway ;^elve days, luy of those iiidi- the sui'face. It owest country in A map of China, he funniest sight s about two feet ps about an inch senting the other Great Desert," or ;ung that we had after going on in r we should reach splained it by the looked at us with ly, as much as to ; that, do you ? " que aud beautiful 5 to be found ex- most of China is jagodas and pretty i|:l!!, W. ' I I '■ -alL'^L. L.isrcL/.urs/:s of c///.v.i. 457 tea-houses you see in your picture books are few and far be- twe*; a China. Most of the teiuph^sare very ordhiary look- ing. And most of the cities are just great masses of low, •common looking buildings, so (;losely crowded together that a bird's eye view from a tower or a hill presents nothing but a mass of roofs. The chief interest of China is in its immensity, its an- tiquity, its vast natural resources, and its strange, unchang- ing, and strongly-marked people. For the people of China are, doubtless, the leading race of Asia. Wherever they meet the other Asiatic races on mid- dle ground they always come out in the ascendant. In India the Chinaman earns twenty-five cents a day, and the Hindu eight or ten. In Singapore and Penang he rides in his car- riage in the Gai'dens, and is the money-lender, the merchant and the millionaire, and the Malay fades befoi-e him. And in China he has stood for four thousand years like a colossal and immovable buttress against all the billows of Time and Change, surviving amid destructive conditions and influences which, surely, no other race could stand. The Hindu has <^ver been a conquered race ; the Malay and the Polynesian is a fading race. The Chinese, notwitlistanding poverty, over- crowding, poisoned water, filthy smells, unhealthy houses, extremes of heat and cold, and the competition for existence of as many, sometimes, as seven hundred to the square mile, and, above all other curses, the awful curse of opium, is tho most populous and vigorous race on earth to-day. If there ever was an illustration of the principle called mCZ" ^ ■I ! 458 i.AKt:iiH iirruwKs on Mi^sionmk^ i.jnds. " the suvvival of the tittesl, ' pert-.,.. y «re. The »t™K- de tor existem-e U so sharp that only th- «tro„Ke»t can sur Vive, and «> we see a nafon to-day "-^.f "-"Vlt t oxen, that can run with a "rik l.a l.ke h..„«., that > a Zr „p under suifenn^ a.ul pain Hke .to, ., and yet do all these things on a diet of ri,c and a (e^^ sr-vos. The women are as hanly as the ., 'i Mr. W alker gives it as his opinion that the rea»<,n the , ..«ans are dyj out is because the mother, have to work so hanl, and then offspring is stnnted and injur,.!. But the women of Oh ma ..o,k much harder in the fields and thebur. -n bearm, ot the roads. And even during n.atern.ty, it is .he.dtul 1 ■> they are neglectcl and expec.ed to keep up the,, ' J ""« ^ keep step with others in the dread march ot hi. o 1^ And yelthev stand it, and their children stand ■' a.d the race lives and grows, and l«,ks down with a hoary and .m- ^vearied age on the younger generations ot time. They a,e the most remarkable race on earth, phys.cally. We have o£ten looked at the " riksha" men of Hong K,,ng and Shang- tai their limbs like great trees or immense pdlars of stone, a'd they will run inthe hot sun for hours until U makes one weary to see them. mu^,r But these people are more than splend.d brutes. They are men of keen intellect and shrewd common sense. Ot^n have we listen«l to the talk of the common PeoL te ™ the boats, in the country, n> the inquiry meetmg, and had then ..ords interp>*d to us, and we hav,. been •'^''^h^l witMh^r keenness of observation, their discernment of character, ' UI. I.INPS. re. The strug- Mi^est <;an sur carry loads like lors^es, that an 'i«l yet do all . alkei' gi' sianH are "lying hanl. and their vonit'u of China 11 bearing of the ■ea/lful 1 '^ they gir 1 -, and to htt toil. And 7+ and the race hoary and un- time. They are cally. We have Konj.; and Shang- ; pillars of stone, intil it makes one ilid brutes. They non sense. Often ion people on the ing, and had their lelightetl with their jnt of character, LA SI c.i OF CHINA. 459 then 8ly humor, their ton ,-ss for talking, theirgoo. Even the l-^^t Coohe. before he drinks hiB tea or eats his n.e. will offer ,t to you, and we have often felt our Anplo-Saxon hluntness put to .hame hy the manners of these heathen. ,,..,,„„ Their poverty has often been referred to, hut beais no cnnparison to the poverty of the Hindu. True, .n fanune aisticts and seasons, they are often reduced to ahjeet des^^ tution, hut ordinarily you see no sueh want m Cluna a w^^ saw all .>ver India. Most China.nen can earn ten to t^«»ty- five cents a day. and buy all the rice he wants. Mdhc^s o^ Hindus never eat rice, and their average niconie ib ten dollars \' Chinese native house is, as a rule, far superior to a Hindu home, and we have seen many that are greatly supe- rior to the usual dwellings of the laboring classes m Europe What is the attitude of these people toward foreigners There is no doubt that it is most unfriendly. The lowest Chinaman is taught by every instinct and tradition that he is immeasurably superior to the highest foreigner. He looks down upon him as an inferior and an intruder, and it is counted a great thing by our missionaries, in the niteriois .hen the people l,egin to condescend to notice them upon the street, bid them good morning or consent to rent them a They don't want the foreigner, and would be glad to get rid of him if they could. This is especially true of the higher classes and the officials. Step by step the foreign i«i«aonary i -»#»'„' SH*^ , •aceful and dig e lowest Coolui, offer it, to you, untn«'SH put to ;o, l)ut iK'iirs no Tiut', iu famine i to abject desti- ; in China as we n ten to twenty- nts. Millions of nie ia ten doUai-s ar superior to a are greatly supe- !las8(!8 in Europe, ward foreigners 1 cUy. Tlie lowest •adition that he is signer. He looks itruder, and it is }, iu the interior, ice them upon the it to rent them a )uld be glad to get true of the higher toreigu miflfliouary r IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) '^ 1 // // /. % y ^ 1.0 I.I l^|28 |2.5 ^ m ^ 1^ 12-0 12.2 1.8 L25 11.4 IIIIII.6 PhotDgraptiic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) ?72-4503 inT-^-tiify--'.tt^.-!— U.x ^ ^ ^ <> C> CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHivVICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductlons / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 'n LAST GL/MPSES OF CHINA. 461 and trader han ^ot into city after city, and the treaties have established his right to stay, bnt there is, no douht, a fixed determination to Uniit this as much as possible, and to pre- vent it going any further. It is exceedingly difficult to get a house to rent in a new town, and to build a foreign house m the interior would be impossible until the people had become famiUar with the new comers by a few years' residence. It has been tried several times, but the building has been always pulled down and the owners turned out. The riots which break out from time to time are the best evidence of this feeUng. It is difficult to say whether the officials OB the common people are most to blame for this an- tagonism. The two provinces of Quangsi and Hunan are the most unfriendly, and in the latter no Protestant missionary has yet been allowed to .ettle. One reason for this is the fact that the Hunanese compose a large part of the Chinese army, and they had a very active part in putting down the Taipmg Rebellic u, which was nominally a Christian movement. Con- sequently the very name of Christian is especially odious to them But in all the provinc . i« exceedingly difficult to open a new station, and even since we have been m China there have been several outbreaks, and the work of the mis- sionaries has been stopped in several places. The church cannot too fully realize that China is the most difficult mis- sion field in the world, and only the very wisdom, patience, faith, and providence of God can open it fuUy to the Gospel. What are the chief obstacles to mission work m China ? Well, the first is the difficulty of getting settled at all in the interior. i'i ■■■■■■■■li 463 LARGER Or'TLOOK'S OA' MrsSIONARV LANDS. Then conies the prejudice and opposition of the people to the doctrine. The Chinaman is naturally opposed to any change. But to change from heathenism to Christianity is peculiarly unnatural. His old religion is bound up with all that is dearest to him. The strongest thing in Chinese idol- atry is ancestral worship. And this takes hold of everything that is strong and sacred in the human heart. To abandon this is an outrage upon every human feeUng. Then the Christian conception of God is hard for a China- man to grasp. To him either nature is God, and he cannot distinguish between heaven and its Creator, or there are many gods, in the form of deified men ; and he has no diffi- culty in accepting the deity of Christ, but how He can be the Supreme and only God, is all new and foreign. Besides, the whole structure of the Christian Scriptures is new and strange and unintelligible to hirn. Much has to be explained before he can even grasp the fundamental idea of the Gospel, and the missionary has to become a patient teacher, and "line upon line, precept upon precept, here a little and there a lit- tle," prepare the very elements of thought and gently lead him to grasp the primary truths of the Bible. For this reason, the Scottish Bible Society has recently issued, after much discussion, an annotated Bible for the Chineae, explaining such terms as God, the Sabbath, and many allusions and references which are absolutely unintel- ligible to the Chinese mind. What has been accomplished already in China ? Chinese missions are only two generations old, and yet much has 4 •-> ■.^v PUNCH AND JUDY. aE R(l)ri«Uu-tion from a Chinese I':iinliiiK- LAST GlJMPSIiS OF CHINA. 463 been done. Looking at it, nuniorically, it seems very Btnall to talk of 40,uu.! converts out of three hundred nnUion8,-one in 7 500 Still smaller do."S it look when you go into a vast city'like Canton, l>eking or Hankow and see the swarmnig millions on the Sabbath day, pouring out through the busy streets in pursuit of gain, and in ignorance of God, and then find your way to a little chapel or two, where a handful ot saved men and women are worshipping the true God amid this great mass of ungodliness. But there are other standpoints from which it appears anything but small. It is no small thing that, in all the great cities of China, notwithstanding the bitter antagonism of the nation, strong mission centres have been planted, and native congregations have been gathered, which stand continually before the eyes of the natives as demonstrations of the fact of a living Christianity and samples of its blessed character, influences and power, as well as distributing centres from which the truth is going out, not only from the Uving voice, but also from the printed page, to thousands. It is no small fact that, by dint of faith, patience and holy tact more thanone hundred great strategic points in the in- terior have been secured and opened in missionary centres, from which every province but one can be re. ; ed, and in fact at least evangelized. These are trains alonf, which the heavenly dynamite is boing scattered, but the laying of a train is often half the battle, and God may, in a single hour, flaah all along these lines the fire of His heavenly power, and 464 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON MISSIOXARY LANDS. encircle tlic cnipin; with His glory. The uiowt difficult tiling for a general is to get a good position, and in China it is a great thing to get any ])osition at all. But as we look over the map of China, we shall find that tlie hest centres in most of the provinces have heen given to the army of ('hrist dur- ing th(5 past (juarter of a century. It is hut a few years since more than half the provinces of China were wholly unoccupied. Within a little more than a decade the immense province of Szchuen, witli nearly thirty millions of people, has heeii occupied, in some of its i)rincipal centres, by half a dozen societies. The two provinces of Yunnan and Kvvei-chow, in the Southwest, have been occupied in a number of places l)y that brave pioneer Society which has done more than all others to open interior China, —the China Inland Mission. The same Society has pushed its sta- tions into Shensi and Kansuh, which constitute the North- western frontier of China, and now another society has joined them in Shensi. Within the same time Honan and Shansi, in the North, have been ])lanted, with several stations, and already we may say that that missionary army has been able to place its outposts on the salient points of all the Western provinces but Hunan. This is, indeed, a great deal, and only one who has been in China and seen the difficulties of getting a single outpost can fully understand it. Then it is no small matter that a native church has been gathered in many various centres, and has given to the world a loving demonstration of what the Gospel can <1() for Chi- nese men and women. The first Chinese convert that, after -^L fDS. LAST (./J.vpsj-s or r ft ISA. 465 cult thirty lina it ik a look over es irj most 'hrist dur- provinwR more than Lilly thirty ■4 principal Dvinces of n occupied ety which tiina, -the led its sta- he North- has joined lid Shansi, itions, and t l>een ahle e Western I, and only of getting 1 has heen the world for Chi- that, after seven years of waiting, n^warded the faith of Rohert Morri- son, was the pledge of all the rest. Tiie first forty thousand converts that, after two generations, have rewarded the faith of the church, ar«i the patterns and the pledges of the millions that God can as easily gather from the land of Sinini. When a man wants to manufacture a valuahlti machine, he first makes a mod(>l, and he takes a good while to i»erfect it. Years often are spent in tests and improvements, until at last his model is ready and his patent is issued. Then it is easy to multiply it hy millions. During these years God has been preparing His patterns in China. He has been waiting, piahaps, for a higher type of native Christians. And when He gets them He can easily multiply them by millions. In the churches at home we have often quantity enough ; what we want is (juality, — a higher, nobler, diviner type. Thank God, some of these have be«ni rising up in China. We have met some noble specimens of native Christians. There is an old man in one of the cities on the Yangtse, whose elder brother threatened to bury him alive if he did not conform to the native custom and have his mother buried with idolatrous rites. He stood firm, and told his family that it was a rare privilege to be permitted to suffer persecution for Jesus' sake. He would have stood unto death, had not God delivered \\h by laying His hand on that wicked brother and taking him us of the world. There are two men in China, who, a few months ago, when Mr. and Mrs. Turner were to be beaten in Western Sz- 11 RIlliPiiiiiPiliilliHi 466 r.ARGKR OVTI.OOKS OS MISSIONARY I.ANOS, chuen. t.> api>eaHe the l.«ople, offered to take the punishment theiuHelves, anX Hi punishment athy, they are whose Hii.iple housands, and tor Bhimhardt lUis in Boston, 3 Christians in of Dr. Kevins, Ood to cast out ilainied the de- Avor of God, as i;ea and posting uch with refer- B liave yet seen, He is about to evangelization XXV. THE MISSIONARY OUTLOOK IN CHINA. THE London Missionary Society is one of the oldest— in- deed, thi! oldest society in Cliina. Under its auspices, Morrison, Mcnlhurst and Marshman came as the first l)ionoers to the closed gates of Canton. It is still one of the strongest and most successful agencies in the empire. We had the plea.^ure of meeting its missionaries at their central stations in Canton, Shanghai, Hankow, Tientsin and Peking, •and seeing nmch of its substantial work. It is one of the most conservative societies in China, and believtis in doing good and solid work, and taking time to do it well. Its mis- sionaries are well paid and, as a rule, well qualifte best modes of working, yet much more depends upon the spirit of the worker, an.l a man full of the Holy Ghost and the hn-e of souls will be blessed with fruit under any St'riptural system. Undoubti^dly, the most valuable agency in China is the native woikers themselves. They can reacli their country- men as the foreigner never can. Especially in the strongly anti-foreign provinces like Hunan and (^langsi we must rely chietly upon them to introduce the Gospel. The great diffi- culty "is to procure them. God is slowly raising up a small army of native preac-bers who are of inestimable value. Money cannot obtain them-indeed. it often spoils them. God only can i)roduce an.l prepare them. Let us pray the Lord of the harvest to send forth many of these laborers mto His harvest. w fMI! ! :i 474 LARCKK OVTLOOXS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. Through all these various agencies, now having;;, perhaps, 1,500 foreign missionaries and twice as many natives, there are in the whole of China several hundred centres of Gospel influence and j (reaching, and about 4<»,000 members gathered into the various native churches. When we consider all the difficulties of the situation, this 18, as we have said, iimch, — very much. The points that have been occupied represent great centres of work, and great pos- sibilities of future expansion and great victories over almost insuperable difficulties. But when we compare even this with the yet iinoccupied field, we shrink appalled from the spectacle of China's desti- tution. If we take even the provinces that are most fully occu- pied, the yet neglected wastes are simply immense. Qnan- tang is the oldest missionary field in China, and is ordinarily regarded as a fairly evangelized province. And yet, within five miles of Canton, we visited villages where a foreigner was an absolute novelty, and Dr. Henry tells us in his volume that if he had them he could place more than one hundred missionaries along the lines that have been opened up by the Presbyterians alone in that single province. The province of Kiang-su. in Central China, is one of the best occupied in the empire. It is the province in which the great centres of Shanghai, Nanking, Su-chow, Hang-chow, Yang-chow and Chin-Kiang are situated with their strong missions. It is also one of the coast provinces, and not in the interior at all. The groat Yangtse River runs through JVDS. tig, perhaps, itives, there !S of Gospel ^rs gathered tuation, this its that have id great pos- over almost unoccupied lina's desti- fuUy occii- ose. Quan- s ordinarily yet, within a foreigner I his volume ne hundred d up hy the 8 one of the II which the rlang-chow, their strong and not in >ns throngrh ■n//-: .v/ss/OA-.i^'y ofr/.ooA- ix cnrsA. 475 it in one direction and the Grand Canal ,n anothe. And yet n^issionaries who have been through the ^^^^^^^ ince during the past year, told us o vdlage afte -Hag. and citv after city, and cities great and populous, too, that ha.l : fd ne/e'r have had a single voice to teU the.. ..Jesu. The great province of Ghanwhei is m the h(^art of China. The great highway of national travel runs through its midst T^:^ of acceL, lying on hoth sides .. the Yaiigts. and not more than four hundred miles from the coast. It had a population before the rebellion as large as France. It ha !ow nerhaps twenty millions. In it there are several great Tu^' dZ 'which'are capitals of districts, and there are nearly sixty walled county towns or ''H'sien^' eities. as they a e cllled, besides hundreds of great market towns and hcni- sands -yes, tens of thousands- .>f populous villages and yet, ut :; an this population and out of all tl-e ^^^'^^^^^^^^^^^^^ to-day less than ten separate points occupied in all tins prov nee and if our Alliance missionaries are counted out, there T'aW a dozen foreign missionaries, all told, among all the^p tens of millions. . And what shall we s..y of the „-eat interior pvovmce. Hunan, with perhaps fifteen millions of inhabitants, has not Tsing.; missionary. Kwei-ehow ami ^nnnan - the «.u h west have just a few pioneer stations of *« Chma In Cd Mission The same is true of Kansuh and Shensnn the "est. And Quangsi, in the south, is yet v.rgnr so,l In :S^hTna there 1 about ,,..>0 of these •■H's.en c,t,es o. f unty towns, and each of then, represents a population o£ mmm ■ iiiHv iiMittteaif>a-« I - 476 LARGER 01 r LOOKS OS' MISSIONARY LANDS. nearly a (luaitor of a inilliou souls. It is not too much to say that proljably l,40(» of them are yet without a niissiou- aiy. The »-^ •_, ;^ J:„ „t,Uo,«whKhth« China ment<.»ui.|.lom...itth.M,.u,lm « ^^ ''""f 4l"r a, ne.- agencies a,v concerned, and onr own 2. So «•" "' "*^'' /^ ^„„,e conditions peculiar to r' ':hrsrc!w.;a itthoiLihiiityoenn-itiplyingthe China, <"- «""^^ ^^„^.,. ,„„„tries. Wecannot send men forces as rap.dly >« ' "' „„^ ^ ,«„„ o£ money at will to any part of t hm. . " „„,t be -"'"rf::":: d try :r::":,«t fro™ Uesai. ^'T nel A net min without the language cannot ready opened. A .c« ^..^^ j,^^ ,^„. "'^""'':/n::\::cri o, lanewandanti-foreigncity. ,,ist or an "P"---— --::::;. ^^^ iX and prejudice, preach the (.ospu ^_^^ ^^_^^^ ^,«, a while secure premises. " '*«;j ^,„.^,^ ^3 J. * Ua firt^t, centres and its expen^""^" time to get its fitst centr ^ .^..^ion must neces- ::^7h:r::htgri:i.*x\he muUucationo.»pia.t PS. e hundred 1 the Chma (ry |)art of reinforce - ini\y rnain- ,he work of at it is not or HiB dear lid our own I peculiar to Itiplying the tot send men on of money ,vay must be 111 centres al- ;uage cixnnot A-ith the lan- .-foreign city. I native evau- j way, disarm >ll books, and mission some I workers and 1 nmst neces- tion of a plant '/•///; ;J//.s.s/(^V./A')- OUTLOOK IN CHINA. 479 from a single root. The more centres it can have the better, if they are sufficiently eonnected to secnr. united woi-kmg and mutual support. Therefore, we hav. planted already m China a nund.er of central stations in different sections, and in each of these we have begun to scatter the workers ^^^ parties ..f two, to their mM>arate stations just as fast as they lave the language and can obtain oiKunngs. In this ^v^ we are preparing posts for new recruits, and after a while we ZIZ. a doL>n <.r a score of centi.s, to each of which a ittle band of reinforcements can go, and from which hey. in their turn, can start new centres which shall, in their turn, nudtiply yet more widely until all the field is covered. In the province of Ghanwhei already there is room for at least, a hundred such centres, and each of these should have f om two to five missionaries. Wuchang, our latest centre looks out to the south, the west and the north on n ot than half a dozen great provinces, each of which needs at least, one hundred centres, and three hundred men as fas as the openings can be found and the men placed. Oui Swedish friends in Northern Shansi hope to «i;;-d -e long through Shansi and Kansuh, but the forty who have just gone ai. as many as can be profitably located now, and as ?hey become established they will move forwai^ and prepare the way for others. In Quangsi, in the south, a party o half a dozen can be immediately utihzed, and as they plant the soles of their feet upon the land, P-^^aps a dozen^^^^^^^^^ can join them, and they, in turn, can double until this Tglited field shall be planted with a hundred points of • 48o J.AKCKK OVII.OOKSO.-I MISSIO^AKY LAMPS. light It is thu« that the w„rk nuist «o on i.. ( lii.u., by a wise' proK., .>Bion, accrf.vating .s it «>•.,«», untU, ,„ a ej year, then, n,,-! be - a^ly any lin.it to t ... nu.nber of .Kencie, that may b,. .i, «rihute,I a..,l .•"M*)y«l- Of course, the ai,n of all ..ur foreign aKenaen .« to ra.»e • „,, an arn,y of native worke,. an.l train th,.,n to ,lo th.K work themnelve,. Bnt this ,,roce,s is -"■"•'«''»' ;'''"' •;"',' V™ present generation of China is to be evangeh/..Hl ,t ,n«st 1« Ey I'y foreign agency. Foreign . vangelism .« n.ore sue. ceLl in China than in n.ost other fields. In In.ha very Zy of the missionaries are chietly superintendents anU train the natives to do n.ost of the ,„oneer work. Bntm China the most successfnl „,ission,mes are »'-"-" persistent evangelists. Men like Dr. Henry, of Cant«D O if^th ..ohn, of Hankow, Dr. Corbett, of Si,antung, and many mo., sioh well-known ,.a,.u.s, with all the.r g,eat ex- Itive and litera.y ability, delight to go o„t a..,ong the ,«». pie on long and perilous evangelistic tours and ,,r^»h the Cl in their language fron. village to village a,„. house to houL And we are glad to be able to say that he C toese language is not nearly such a Je.icho as .t seemed. Ihl.gen toe Ilmost any diligent and faithful student can do much useful work within a year, and can do Bometh.ng ,n s.x Znths. It is not half so difRolt as Japanese a.,d we judge TrTt much harder than the languages of Ind,a ,n Burmah. F.^egn children pick it ..p more quicklv than Enghsh. Ite ;Lb »re as simple a..d monc«yllab.c. ■, ■ .■'. charaae,« II la KlJfSSfflS^ „j,„e5«t-S.»i'^S=«-**'^^'~"-"-' ^ ( hiiiji, by a il, in a ft'vv number of iH Ik to raise lo thiH work , and if the , it mxiBt ho is nu»ro suc- i India very eudents, and ork. But in ccessful and of Canton, lantung, and leir {^reat ex- iiong the peo- d preach the 1 and house to t the Chinese led. Diligent vsonably short b can do much lething in six , and we judge ia or Burmah. 1 Enghsh. lis jf'i characteiB ■nn: .^nssrox.ARy ocn.ooh' r.\' riirs'.i. 481 pictorial, giving a vivid and ocular image of the thing .h'tin.d Of course, it tak.^ . ^xny years fo acpiire perfect :hien. y ami accurate co.unnuul of the langu.g.. But no one need de- spair of oven this within a re,.Ho,uihle time, and -. kn.Avev.n young missionaries like Mr. Johnston an.l Mr. Stanley Smith, who siieak it with won.lerful froed..rn and ix)WPr. For our own work in e'hina, the innnediate if>eds that have been pressing upon our heart and mind during these busy months have been : " 1 A thorough organization and .ompetent superintend- ence of the whole field anrd and the power " Z might, for they wrestle not against flesh and blood but Slinst principalities and powers, against the rulers of the rrls'of this world ; against spiritual wicke.lness m hjgl nlaces " Put on, therefore, the whole armor of God that ylTay be able to withstand in the evil day and havmg LTall to stand. . . . Praying always wth all praye ^d supplication in the spirit, and with a" pe.-ver»c» fo. Ssainte" . . that all utterance may be given them to ^reir mouths boldly for the Gospel for which they are ambassadors in bonds. ^'-liL riNDS. mscendently son we have 5 have found, romen deeply on God. Let ;hren unceas- the power of nd blood, but rulers of the idness in high of God, that , and having ith all prayer rseverance for given them to k^hich they are XXVI. FIRST GLIMPSES OF JAPAN. WE had scarcely got out of the Yau^•tse when we no- ticed the extraordinary speed at which the steamer was going. Every fibre fairly quivered with tl^e strain of her tremendous engines. All that day and the next s c flirly Hew over the sea of Japan, until the spray dashed ^hc tairiy n^ slackened her pace in fine ram over our taceb, ana sne ue until at svu.set. the next night, we saw before us the high rocks that guard the entrance to the ^^-'•^^«^-^^^^;2^^;^ We soon learned the cause. We were flyn.g fro m a t) - phoon,one of those tremendous cyclones that strike the east- er "L in summer like a lightning breath, and m an mstant Lto nbbons the stoutest sail, and strong enough to enable he vessel to sail and steer by the bare mast, when even tha not torn away by the terrihc gale. Even the strongest lamship has all she can do even to hold her course m the te^h of the tvphoon. A friend of ours was caught m one 1 summer, h! one of the great ships of the French Mail Lme rurfmest/perhap., in the East. For three days he says they were all locked down stairs, while the great slnp was hterally lifted up and dashed down again -f^g^';- ^.^^^ f plavthing in the grasp of a giant, untd it would seem as if it 4^5 486 LARGER OUTLOOKS OX MISSIONARY LANDS. must be pounded to pieces, and at the eud of the storm they found that they had hardly moved a mile on their course And so it was a little exciting to know that a telegram had come to Shanghai that a typhoon had just left the for- mer port that day, travelling northward, and that we might get out of its course by swiftly speeding across the line of its march before it reached us. We saw no sign of its commg but we knew that these visitors come without notice, and that the sky, this moment bright and clear, might the very next be dark with the dreadful hurricane. But we quietly trusted and prayed, and the next night as we entered the harbor of Nagasaki, we knew that through God's goodness we had escaped it. The third day, as we sailed out of that harbor and rounded the coast to enter the Inland Sea, we were caught in its tail, and the slight shaking we got gave us a very faint idea of what its clutches would have ^''' These tremendous storms usually start at the Philippine Islands, and travelling in a narrow course with a revolving spiral motion, sweep on to Hong Kong and then up the Chi- nese coast, usually passing out to sea a little distance above Shanghai Thev mow a swath of desolation on land and sea, and many of th; hapless wrecks they leave are never known. The harbor of Nagasaki is said to be the prettiest m the Fast We do not consider it as fine as Hong Kong, which still remains, in our judgment, unapproached if not unap. proachable for picturesque grandeur. ,u,,„„h But the picture is exceedingly fine. You enter through FIRST c;Lnrps/:s oi-japax. 487 INDS. a storm they ir course. it a telegram left the for- lat we might Lhe line of its if its coming, t notice, and light the very te next night, ' that through y, as we sailed ter the Inland baking we got }s would have the Phihppine th a revolving len up the Chi- distance above n land and sea, 3 never known, prettiest in the ig Kong, which id if not unap- u enter through ure, hke a Scotch Uke ^ ^^ ^,, „„,,,,„„d. The 1" effeiive angles, by some pvetty Ughthou^e or hand- NAGASAKI. 1 of +Ho ViPfld of the little harbor, the native uty, w J ^ handsome bungalows, and green look like carvmgs and chasmgs on tne frame of the mirror that flashes below. ji^^i,w-"''i)riii ' n' wr^ 48« L.-IPCFP orTLOOKS oy MrSSIOXARY LAXDS. \mong these hillB are the rocks where, more than two hundred years ago, the Martyr Christians of Japan wei-e liurled to death. , In these waters, too, was found that wonderful copy of the Bible, a quarter of a century ago, that led a whole vdlage to Christ, and formed one of the beautiful providential Imk. in the oi.ening of niodern missions in Japan Monday morning we began coaling, and we had a good opportunity to study native character. The ^V^^- ^^^^ up alongside, and a great crowd of boys and gn-^s unloaded these into the steamer. It was a curious sight to see those long chains of mere girls, as they seemed, standing one above another up the ladders on the sides of the ship a..d dow to the holds of the coal barges, passing m and out the full and eniptv baskets, with songs and shouts of merriment. \\ hat a little people, and what a joyous and cheerful people they ""'^ A "riksha" ride through Nagasaki showed us the great Buddhist temple with its silly priests and performances, and V.retty stores and streets, so clean and so different from the nithy scenes we had just left in China. In the Afternoon we sailed out again, and after a little tumbling in the open sea, we entered, at length, the beauti- ful "Inland Sea," through which the rest of our voyage t« Kobe passed. The "Inland Sea" is the jewel of Japan. It has been compared to English, Swiss and Scottish lakes, and our own -Thousand Isles" of the St. Lawrence, or Lake George and r-IRST CI./MPSES OF JAPAK. 489 3 than two fai)au were •ful copy of hole village lential links had a good liaiges came rls unloaded to see those ig one above and down to , the full and iient. What 1 people they I us the great rniances, and lent from the a after a little ,h, the heauti- our voyage to It has been , and our own ke Geox-ge and TEMPLE OF BUDDHA, NAGASAKI its isle-adovned bosoni. It is a sea of islands much larger than any of these expaiisos, and combining many elements of interest thev lack. It is about three hundred miles long, and varies in width from five to fifty miles. A sheet of light green water, at least three hundred miles long inside the ocean breakwaters, its surface as rmt>th as glass, save when its fair face dimples at the touch 490 i.^/^^^^ orTLOOA-s ox .//.vv/oav/a'>- l.lxds. t Hu Umoni dotted with innuiner- able .sluiuls ">" S- y',;^ '^ ' ,„„, „„„„, »„„„ a tVw n,iU« and low, corneal a»^ '» ; ^ «,,^ „„ ,,,a,„t „„,, Vautiful •. and son.o '^ ^'^'^ /''',,'''„.,„, „£ Ught grey simd to ligl.t uptheu daik ^ue ^^^^ ^^^^^.^ ^^^^^ ^^,^^^ j^^^ into a ^^-";^-^^/"^;!°Jj,i^ islandB jewels cut by gigantic hands in many . .,,„^^,^.,gp,i ^itli iove^a with patches 0.. la... r«^ menaced '>-"^^;'^ jtjet^^ village nestling hy the green and »'";;;;, ,ig^,„„„,, with its snow white «ea ; here and the.. ^ P ^"^ ^ ^ ,,„„« ,„,Uy islet ; here tower and w.i.d.ng sta... """"""^ .„„^ a heautiful and thereaflshin. ^"^'^ZZ^Z:^^^"^'^ -Hh r^'^TiXlf e::r .' l-Tlnd „ers„eetive new a,.d tays »'\'" ^';. n,',' hU a ga.,len-everyMcagen» strangely heant.tul ■^■"^'y „ ,„,^^,„, s,a.- anOrtarL.e.^isthe~nd^-^^ and la,.ds elevated into ™>»"ta...s -.n la^ .at ^ . Lawrence widened into a ^^^^^ ^ a .ine-clad sho-es banks of the H-'-" -;;';';; '^X^.™'-'^ »'"^ -- of the Rhine c, ^M-' ;,:^^ ' ,l„uf as Wi,.der„.ere or s:::::— "^tLtsU^co...^^^^ -•--sr=:is:--u:::vnithen.. ^^^Wfi'^JOt^'^ :ds. I innuiner- iliuulrt high I few iniU'tf beautiful *, iinl to hght tht'ir fronts ey look like 118 -, islands persed with i „f lij^hter tling by tlio snow white T islet ; here , a beau tif til ulfutt'd with ve nev^ and ry isle a gem mdSea/' er and set in li their shores m-s of the St. It is the high le-dad shores anels and cir- rindermere or or Maggion;. ery charm as \ hold them all FIRST aLi.-irrslis of jAr.w. 491 nut together, with the Tlu.usand Isles and Lake George tlvtn n We sailed through it for thirty hours, and our on yU was that nua-h of its lovehness -- l-t -^^e veil of mist and clouds that rested upon M. But it was ;:etty enough to enable us to veali.e what .t nmst ho unde. a brilliant sun, and a clear, transparent sky. i;:^^4r*^S^ KOBE- Tuesauy night toma "» ''""»« '"'" t**" '''"■''"'' "' '^°'*' a„.., „e.xt moving, our good fnend Mr. GuUok c.me ou board early and took us ashore to breakfast at Mrs. BalUid , peasant missionary hon.e, just outside the town, under tho '"■^lotlsilhandson.o ci.y of ....>,"00 inhahitants, and mmmm. ^.^^^^^^^^tge^'WWF^^T,^: 492 /-tAv-v-A' orn.oo^-s ox >v/ .fOX-U-y i.axos. the Becona ..poH in Japan, .on.pHin. -ry Jauly^tl. Yokohan^afo.. the luvg. shippm, trade o ^^-^ '^^ J ^^ • 1 ia Tt is tiuelv Bituate.1 in an niegular frame ot lufca iBlauds It I. f "•^ y '^ ; ^,, ,,.,i, ,,„„„itH with terraced whi.h:u-.. |n'.-»l..-.' "? J='2'- " lil. a pointed rnlar. But ^ATi^' ' . 1 •^ t. i.4a#w| THE OREAT PINE TREE, JAPAN. tbe pine t,ve ..£ Japan, eithe,- bom natural habit or fiomlong tr^in ng, i» a spveadins ti«, giving low, and dwarf shaped, often nt ove' twenty feet high, and oxtendn,g U. w,de trchos out ou evevy side with thick and •"— "'- ^ often more than fifty or even a hundred feet. I'"''"!' "»;« i, one groat pine in Japan nearly twee as bmad a. he ;:l Banyan at Calcutta, whose wide extended branches ■ "^^s^»^m!^?SSS3h iron Avith of higli tiniaced ilinr trees and per lar. But FIRST <;/./.yrs/:s o/' j.iP.-ty- 493 r from long arf shaped, ig its wide iant foliage, ideed, there •oad as the led branches eo.cra.pa.-e of hu„,.ml« of f.^t i" ,lm„>..t...-, an,l ar. .«,- oorted by scores of artirtnul ]»oHts. •"' TL'efTect of the.e lot.,., fe^ U y-y «-• -^^ . green tints of tho hill™!-" ..■.• ".".■- vano,! th.u. - noticed anywhere else. . nuj^a and Mr,. Ballanl wa» fon,«,ly a n,isK,ona.T n> Ch na, and has -v most intulligunt and .'amest missionary «1> mt. H" horn; i-teat convenience to travelling misaionane,, ami a real centre of Christian hfe and love. We went to the cemetery dxuing the day, and found the wewennut f^Hu. Kiflt Or WihiamOvHHidy, CTaveofourfirstmi8SionaiTtotheh..i8t,iM ;,.„< five ^^Ilaid down his hfe at Kobe, on his way to Chuuv, just five t'Got nf died of --".-.'•—::;:: 'xCas ,o„me, across t- -i- -,c e — J^ ^^^ ,^ '-°«.'-"e:r:nX:*.^b;r:ni™wn nana, l».l bloommg «'« ■*;/'"'^;'''"^ vvrehope some of onr friends rrn^rnr.r-nlJotKer .nely ... o. ^';r.:t'":.n>.o«se near .y ^ purcW a «^ 494 A'^AT/TTA' OUTLOOK'S OX Af/SS/OX.IA-)' LANDS. vlantH, una hu.l the.n plant.-l over hi« lu-ad u.id foet. They ;,re pretty evergreens, and they will continue to speak of the love that is keeping his memory green by following up Lis laborn for the worLVs evangelization. Couhl he see he .ighty misHionaries to China and J apan that have followed m his train, he would n..t think that his life had been wasted or his death in vain. It was very ritlU . -: miii^ liM 496 LARCKR OUTLOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. equivalent to more than twice as much in Japan. We are sure that there is much room, even in Japan, for an example of missionary economy and simplicity of living, but it must not he pushed to an extreme which will cramp and cripple the woi-kers and drive them into secular teaching in order to eke out a living. We met our Scandinavian fiiends again at Kyoto and Tokio, and were glad to learn that already their work had begun to bear fruit. They are distributed in about ten cen- tres, and, during the past year, they have had over twenty conversions in their various stations. It is not necessary in Japan to wait until one has ac- quired the language before beginning work, but through a good interpreter a missionary may do much useful work from the very beginning. During our short visit to Japan we addressed more than a dozen native audiences, and, al- though it was, of course, far less satisfactory than the direct contact of the vernacular, yet it became much more «asf and effective than we had found it in India or China. There are some missionaries that have never acquired the language, but prefer to use an interpreter ; but this is much less com- mon than we had heard, and we are prepared to deny the statement which we have read in a high authority recentty published on Japan misMons, to the effect that there are ojdf about a dozen missicmaries in the countiy that speak Japan- ese feiently, and use it ordinarily in their work. Undi)lied hy foreign niissior. schools. They said the giils, were very hright. and really had to he held hack from study. In comiection M'ith this school a handsome and elahorate science hall was going up. which was to be fur- nished with superior laboratories and museum. All this was very lovely, and the missionaries who kindly showed us through the buildings were most gifted and sincere Christian workers, and enthusiastic in their work ; but we could not help feeling that the connection with the evangehzation of the world, and with C'hrist':^ last conmiission, was somewhat indirect and remote, and that it did not very materially differ from high school work at home. We, at least, should not feel at lilierty to invest missionary funds in such beautiful mstitutions as this, while the great masses and most of the lower classes of Japanese are yet unsaved. We have too much love for even the most indirect effort to evangelize the world, and too tender a regard for the be- loved missionaries we met abroad to be critical or severe, but we were pained to see so very nmch educational w ork in Japan engrossing the strength and time of foreigners whom the Loid could so well employ in direct missionary work. We heard of our dear friends. Dr. and Mrs. Ludlow, who had spent two or three years in Kobe, in connection with the Alliance, and, of course, we found that they had left a deep imi)ression by their Christian character and life on the com- munity. But we found no permanent lesults from their for- tNDS. schools only female edu- lools. They be hold back mdsonie and IS to be fur- All this was ' showed us jre Christian ;e could not gelization of IS somewhat ierially differ ;, should not ch beautiful most of the idirect effort ■d for the be- r severe, but nal AN ork in ^neis whom try work. Ludlow, who tion with the id left a deep > on the com- oni their for- j-VA'ST ^/./.^//'^/•'.v lder man. He has learned to wait on the Lord, and suffer in silence, and he knows the great secret of listening to His voice and trusting His word. He has been called the (4eorge MuUer of Japan, and his work has beer inspired to a great degree by the example and testi- mony of that venerable patriarch of faith. A few years ago Mr MuUer visited Japan, and the story of his work had a powerful influence in the heart of Mr. Ishii, who, at the time, was about to study medicine and become a physician. He was led to adopt a helpless child, and so to begin his great life-work. He has no less than two hundred and seventy five children under his care, fifty of whom are at another town - Nagoya- and so far they all have been cared for by the Lord without any direct human dependence. He has various industrial departments in connection with the school, and is multiplying them as fast as the means will allow He has a barber shop run by the l>oys, which makes a little money daily for the Orphanage. He has a printing establishment which turns out good work, of which we have some specimens. He has others learning to gin and spm and weave cotton, and if he had a few hundred dollars more he could purcbase a lot of spinning wheels and put a number more to work profitably. Everything is most simple and eco- nomical, and all the affairs of the Orphanage are open as the ,V-).V.VAvVtfi^l|l>S-^W^fe*ta iJl a spiritual ivity of tlic but has tlu^ has learned i knows the g His word. 11(1 his work le and testi- w years ag( > work had a at the time, ^sician. He ;in his great seventy five »ther town — by the Lord nection with e means will k\'hich makes IS a printing liich we have and spin and liars more he ut a number n])le and eco- e open as the /■VA'ST (.LfMl'SF.S OF JAPAN. 501 day. With great simplicity lit^ told the little ones, the day we were there, that they had begun the day with two yen, and the expenses had been nineteen yen, and just eighteen yen had come in, so they had just one yen to begin another day, and so they all were taught to look to the Lord together for their daily bread. Ho came over to see us the following week at Nagoya, and we had a long interview and became very deeply attached to the simple-hearted child-like man of God. He accM.pted most fully all the truths of the Fourfold Gospel, and told us that we should some day hear more fully from him, if God sj>ared us both, when he should have tried and proved more fully these precious truths. He told us, with great simplicity, that he had been hindered for a day in coming to visit us at Nagoya, by the want of means, but the next day a man called and brought him eight yen, saying that he waked in the night dreaming that Mr. Ishii needed eight yen and was in distress, and in the morning he obtained exactly this sum and brought it to him, and it proved to be the very sum he needed. This good man took a great hold of our heart, and we believe God is going to use him more than any other agency in Japan to teach His people true piety, and to begin through the Spirit of the Lord, and through the native people themselves, a spiritual and missionary move- ment which will reach all Japan with the true Gospel in its simple apostolic power. His young wife is in full sympathy with him, and his helpers, numbering twenty, aie all volun- teers, giving their time without compensation and in simple dependence upon God for all their needs. They all seem to •UPBBSW^ wmmmmisaai j)Oa LARGER OlfTLOOk-S OX MrsS/OXARY LANDS. be men and women of like mind with himself. Mr. Ishii has received into his branch Orphanage at Nagoya the little orphans wliom Miss Kinney had gathered as the nu(;leus of an Orphanage work in connection with the Alliance, and we had the pleasure of visiting them a few days later at the Home. Miss Howard very wisely handed them over to Mr. Ishii, as our Alliance is not called to this kind of work directly, and Mr. Ishii is much hotter able to care for it. We believe that many of our people will be led to take a personal interest in the work of this beloved brother, and to cheer him in his work of faith and labor of love, which is an object lesson for Japan of much more value than even its direct benefit to the many he'.|>ers or plans under his care. Our journey to Okyania, as also, later, to other pomts, was rendered very pleasant, and saved us from nnich incon- venience by the kindness of our good friends, Dr. and Mrs. Gulick, of Kyoto, who met us at Kobe and made most of the arrangements for our rapid visit to Japan. These dear friends have since undertaken the oversight of our missionary work in Japan, and we trust, in coming days, will become much better known to all our readers and friends. Dr. Gulick belongs to an honored missionary family, which has still several members in the mission field. Much of his life was spent in the Sandwich Islands. For many years he has resided in Japan, and has been chiefly engage.l as a professor in the government schools. He has just re- signed his position in the principal government college at Kyoto, and will now give his life exclusively to missionary [•. Ishii has , tho littlo nucleus of iau(e, and later at the Dver to Mr. rk directly, 'd to take a her, and to which is an an oven its his care, ther points, nuch incon- »r. and Mrs. ide most of F/J^sr cLr.\fi's/:s orj.ir.i.y. 503 work. He is widely known in Japan, and is univ«.isally re- spected and heloved as a humhle and devot.Ml Christian worker, and a leader in every earnest spiritual nu.venient. We trust his experience and high Christian (jualities will make him a groat blessing to the work, and that his dear wife may 1)0 richly hlessed and strengthene.l f<.r her fellow- ship of service. le oversight i, in coming readers and nary family, field. Much For many efly engaged has jubt re- lit college at 1 missionary XXVII. ACROSS JAPAN BY RAIL. TIIKRK ate already several thousuud iniU-H of railway in Japan, opening tip almost every part of the country by oasy conununication. The longest and most un^ portant of these lines runs from Kobe to Yokohama and Tokio. a distance of three hundn-d and sixty miles. First, we had to secu.e passports at the consul s office, l^nnitting us to travel in the interior beyond the Treaty ports -for scientific <.bservation or the beneht of our health •• We did not have to answer any questions on these 1 or we might have been embarrassed. Our passports had verv kindly been secured for us, and we accepted them without denmr. We suppose, had we been aj-^^-^^' T rid have said, with Miss Kinney, that it was for the ben ftt f ,.ur health to obey the Lord and go -^-e ^e s..t u. The truth is, as we learned from the authonties the leal !^i and interest of these passports is to prevent foreignex. ' oing into the interior to trade, and so long as tins is honest- iv avoided, the spirit of the Treaty is not infnnged ' We w^re sm^ised to find how much easier it is than we had supposed, to obtain passports, not only to visit but also Tveside in the interior, and that by a little tact every por- 504 .till : railway in ;he country lid moat ini- [ohama and nsul'H office, 1 the Treaty letit of our ions on these iir passports cepted them lestioned, we or the benefit ; He sent us. ties, the real ent foreignei-8 this is honest- ged. L- it is than we visit but also act every por- I EillK! ii i If i^i ■•jsi&ia" .icffOs.sj.^r.i.v ity hwii. 505 tion of tho interior nmy be viHited and .'vaiiKclizod ; h.kI, in- dml, there in Hcarcely a i)roviii(e whrie niiHsioiiaries are not now to he fnnnd, and whrre flourishing^ Htations are not growing np. 0»ir Hrst stop was at Osaka, the second city in Japan ni population, and the fhst in real wealth and commercial im- portance. It has a population of half a million, and it hears every indication of wealth and influence. We tried to count its lofty smoke sta<;ks as we entered, hut tlu-y numhered hun- dreds. Its hridges are said to exceed l,4.M», and they are very substantial and pretty, leading across the various branches of the rivers that intersect the town, almost hke anotluT Venice. The manufactures of Osaka are very extensive, and, its trade draws constant visit.n-s from every section of the empire. Its commercial nniseum is a vast and imposmg structure, containing samples of its various wares, and not unworthy of Glasgow or Liverpool. We were kindly entertained by the Kev. Mr. Gulick, of the American Board, and found a n)eeting arranged for us in the largest nativ- . unrh, Rev. T.^a Gowa, past.)r, Avhere we were expect. o preach to a native audience with the pastor asinterpivter. Thisgentlemanisoneof theleading ministers of the native chuich of Japan, and a very goo.l sample of an educated Christian native. He has a strong physique for a Japanese, and an expression of rugged force and strong exec- utive ability. His head is round and massive ; his beard thick and strong ; his shoulders broad and powerful ; his eye keen and his manner crisp and full of decision and energy. ^.SP' J'T^'^T'^'^rt 5o6 l.ARCr.R OUTLOOKS ox .V/SS/ON.-iRV LANnS. He impressed us as a man more keenly intellectual than deeply spiritual. He is said to be the best interpreter in Japan. When Joseph Cook was here he translated his lectures for him, and Avas able to reproduce whole para- graphs, five or ten minutes long, without omitting -n- muti- lating a shade of thought. He is the leading spirit of the Kumai churches which have grown u]» out of the missionary work of the American Board, and are pressing so strongly for an independent native church. The first part of the meeting was devotional, and he led it by the aid of a little hell, keeping time as sharply as Mr. Moody would have done. We spoke for about half an hour, and he interpreted for us with great facility. We notiiXHl that nobody in the audi- . ence looked at us, but all gazed on the flo succeeded > impression native con- ras entii'ely ?d, carrying .ICROSSJAP.I.y nv RAIL. 507 We also had the privilege ot meeting a numher of the EugUsh and American missionarifs at Osaka and speaking a few spiritual words about the Holy Ghost, tlie one theme on which we have almost always spoken abroad. There is a very pleasant Foreign Quarter in Osaka, wliere the mission- aries reside, and several of the great societies are well repre sented, especially in the American Board, the Northern and Cumberland Presbyterians and the Baptists, and the English Church Missionary Society. We were especially delighted to meet some of the workers of this latter society who were con- nected with Mr. Buxton's work, and to receive a very cordial letter of welcome from Mr. Buxton himself. This dear brother has lately come to Japan as the representative of a missionary spirit which will meet, we know, with a very cordial response in all our people's hearts. He is a descend- ant of an old and honored English family, Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton ; is possessed of ample means to sustain the Mission he represents, and yet is working loyally under the noblest of English societies, the Church Missionary Society. He is a thoroughly consecrated Christian, believing with all his heart in the Lord as a Healer and Sanctifier, and standing out in unoompromising separation from all the inconsistencies and follies of the religious world. So true is his testimony that even missionaries sometimes think him and his party of workers extreme. They have no time for receptions, picnics, Shakespearean readings and idle sight-seeing, and no heart for aught save the one thing the L(n-d has sent them to do. Their lives are simple, econonncal and elevated. They have ! J 5o8 I.ARC.ER OITI.OOKS OX M/SSVOXARr LANDS. gone straight to the unoccupied fields of the interior, and al- ready God has begun to greatly bless their work. Our f nends will be glad to know that it is among these good missionaries, and on the borders of the great unoccupied field they have entered, that we have decided to organize onr missionary work in the interior of Japan. Here we again received the same assurances which we had already heard at Kobe, of the strong independent move- ment 0,1 the part of the native churches, and their desire to throw off the foreign control and take the entire direcion of all the missionary work in Japan. We found nmch less of this in some of the other societies, and we believe it has been, for various causes, most decided in the churches of the Amer- ican Board. ,, . The Cumberland Presbyterian Church has an exceUent work in Osaka, and we had some V-cious fellowship w.th its good nussionaries,remindingusof the olddaysatlortWorth^ One of their lady evangehsts, now in America has been greatly blessed iu establishing a large circle of stations and thurcL in the vicinity of Osaka ; and, we believ-e, she was able to .10 all this excellent and substantial work through an interpreter and without speaking a word of Japanese From Osaka we next went to Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan. It is not as large as Osaka, numbering about a quarter of a million inhabitants. But it is a most beaiitiful city full of quaint old temples, and surrounded with a frame of picturesque hills on every side. This was for centuries the spiritual capital, where the Mikado resided in sacred isola- xcsaa ■■ r ep5. ior, and al- ;3ur friends lissionaries, [ they have missionary !S which we ident move- dr desire to direction of luch less of it has been, )f the Amer- au excellent ship with its Fort Worth, -a, has been stations and ieve, she was c through an anese. icient capital ning about a lost beautiful with a frame • centuries the I sacred isola- o (- o >- o o o 3 o I I- Ul Ul c I h- ACROSSJ.IPAX />'}' RAIL. 509 tion as tlie religious head of tJie nation, while, the Daimios or nobles ruled at Tokioand swayed the tenii)oral power hy mili- tary force. Forty years ago all this was changed, and Japan emerged out of Feudalism aud Superstition to become, in a single gen- eration, the most progres- sive of Asiatic and, almost, of modern na- tions. Since then the cap- ital has been transferred to Tokio, and Kyoto is but a monument of Old Japan. But for one who has time to study it, it is an interest- ing relic. We had neither heart nor leis- ure to spend more than a few hours in the bell tower, kyoto jIO L.'IRnF.N OVnOOKS OA' MtSarONARV LANDS looking .t tl,e must int«.«tin« , I' its anoieut te,n,.l.« and \22 S„n,.. „£ tl,e,» are ver, .ostly. tl.e.r altavs and brines iH-ing cove^d with gold and precions »tones and h " Uns nni„no and wholly Japanese. The s.tes of most then, a,.e s„„e,„. and tl.oi,- grounds spacons and finely nlauted as all gionnds are in Japan. The great Bdl o Ittm^le is 'one of the largest in the world and Us tone is singu- larly SWtM't and far reach- ing, sounding over the hill» for many miles. Kyoto is a city of magnificent distances, and the suburhs that reach on t on every side, along the slopes of the exquisite hills to a distance of many miles a r e covered with striking buildings. 1 EMPUE OF HACHIMAN, KYOTO. Bn vDS uipleB and altars and tones, and tes of most and finely ^at Bell of Id and its ACROSS J. IP. I. y /.)' /,•///,. 511 TO. ^^_£. - :^S£^ Tlitj (Tovciiuiiciit Cullej;(', wlicir oiii' host lias Ih'cii teach- ing, is a fine huilding with several hnndted students. To Americans the most interesting institution in Kyoto is the Doshisha nr Christian College, founded by Dr. Neeissima, who was, perhaps, tlie most gifted and distinguished native Christian that has arisen from the .Japanese church. The halo that his life has left beliind it, even y(^t in Tapan, gives evidence of the power of this gcjod man's life. He was a man of singleness of imrpose, nmch faith and a great force of character. His great life-work was to found the Doshisha, and leave it as a heritage to his beloved Japan. It is a strong and well-enuipi)ed colleg(N embracing a theological school, and designed to give a higher education under Christian in- fluence to the youth of Japan, and especially to train those of them for the Christian ministry who are willing to d(!Vote thetr lives to that high calling. Tliere are several hundred students in attendance, and we had the privilege of being asked to address them twice. We found them veiy bright and responsive, and took the opportunity to ))ress home upon their hearts the need of spiritual rather than ])urely intellec- tual culture as the true secret of power and the great need of Japan. Everywhere we go in this land we feel it inoro and more — the smartness of the people is their bane ; and their great need — the only thing that will stead)' them fully and give them jM'rmanence is spiritual depth and power. We tried, as best we could, through an interpreter, to impress upon them Paul's great argument, in I. Cor. ii., for the spiritual rather than the psycliical element in heavenly wisdom, illu- mination and power. And wliile to many it was no doubt r..,m;r^ ofTLOOJ^s ox M/ss/ox.iuy ixns. I L.p..h.™iW.., yet we ecu,,, see an,, ... that . , .""«=r f..i.n.ls may see hi.n .luring the suniiue.. He is .. lVa::™rla;;i..eaU.-M.>.t .„ t,™ta„ evHn.e,„.a,. — t;r:::^e.o„«,e^«,at.^.--K>™w •... „ll (1,P forei.'ii missionaries-about a h— ^''j';' ^ ^l J, ,he Hoiy Ghost uablo insight into the condition of I 1'"*™; \,„ ,.„„. his pi.cious «--j'j-7 " tow'l tdependence have met, he also sees the stionfc ^^^^ ^_^_j^_. iuthe native Church, -''j ■^''; ':'^,., ^„.„™,„, intel- .tands the ''-f ^^I'tf "^^^^.e have already referred r'"tr :: irrtu If hope for «« future, and to; but he is a ^^.^^^ ^^^.^^g^ yet been scarcely touched in this country. \'PS. ^,>o(\ tuany it America, ;v. He is a t vangelit-al, nt at Kyoto \ score, and }i (loliglitfii i^eived with the need of ,her tlian ho eived with a le friend and .!■ missionary > Holy Ghost IS much val- ork in Japan the others we independence ixn, he under- darism, intel- i-eady referred future, and true foreign r, and in hum- native Church, ;, who have as- ■Mpi ACROSS J. I P.I r itleasant and profitable ac- (luaintances or asso( iations of these three days in old Kyoto. We jvere sorry to learn afterwards that we had ])assed by the very room in the hospital in which our bel(>v<'d fellow tiav- eller, Kev. Dr. Kidg* vay, of rhi<;ago, was lying dangerously ill with tyi)hoid fever, and we knew not until we were one hundred miles from Kyoto that he was even there. We were glad, however, ere we left Japan, to receive a letter from his wife stating that he was much better, and we could not thank our own dear Father enough for the faithfulness and lovc! that had not permitted us to lose a single hour with sickness or pain during all the long months of our dangerous journey. Blessed be His dear and gracious name ! From Kyoto wo went on alone to Nagoya, about one hun- dred and tw(»nty miles farther east on the I'okaido or great road to Tokio. Nagoya is the fourth city in the empire, next in population to Kyoto, and a commercial centre of great im- portance. It is the great Buddhist metropolis, and their hos- tility to Christianity is very determined. Tt is also the cen- tre of the Earthquake District, and they tell very thrilling stories of the scenes of three years ago, when this whole sec- tion was devastated and many lives wei-e lost. The great rents in the ground are still to be seen in the country round Nagoya, where the earth was cleft asunder. It was just a I \ 5M J iKG/h' oiTf.oohs o.\' Ar/ss/i>\.iA'y / ixns. litth- after HUi..is....in.ltlM', pU- l.a.l nut y.t left tl.eir homes wlH.ii in a mcnont. tl.py lu-ar.! a slrauK'', cmshinK souml, and tlH> kind H.'(M.u'(l KiasiK-tl as in a ^'iaiit hand Jind as a wildb.'ast ^vould shako its i.rcy, till -tho houHes were Inulcd fiom thHr 1 oindations, tho tih-s came turnhhiiK fvom the NAOOYA CASTLE. roofs, and the i)eople lied from thcii- doors to he crushed by the faUing tiles and timber. The little children, now in Mr. Ishii's Orphanage, atN^go- ya, were mostly refugees, left homeless by that catastrophe. For nearl V a month afterwards there were constant shocks, bUt xns. Llu'ir honu's, hiuK Hoinul, d and as a were liuilcd g ftom tho e crusliod by age, at Nago- catastrophe. it shocks, hut U/^OSSJ.I/>,IX /.')• A'./// 515 after the fiiNt they were coniixifativfly h.iniih'ss. Kuith- qiiakos are V ry common in Japan, ankin the Japanese theaties in tlie face of a strong Buddhis: op{)o' }*-um. The Northern Methodists liave an excellent wo; k, uid u had the piivile^e of pn-aching in their large chap 1 i > u s ry good congregation of natives. There is also an ex. ■ Uoai young mission here from Wyckliffe College, Canada, carried on by a consecrated band of Cana- dian p]piscopalians, and having nmch of the best spirit of the Church Missionary Society peojde we have met abroad. Here, also, some of our own missionaries have settled for the present, and we sjjent two days in frecpient fellowship with our dear sisters. Miss Baines and Miss Howard, at their pleasant Japanese cottage in Nagoya. Miss Barnes is in good health and has made fair jjrogress with the language. She will remain in Nagoya for the sununer, and in the autunui will join Dr. and Mrs. Gulick in the interior. Miss Howard lias devoted herself chiefly to the orphans who were, for a time, under her special care, after the return of Miss Kinney, hut have been transferred to Mr. Ishii's native Orphanage. She feels led to return to America, and we have encouraged ,;i6 LARCKR OI'TLOOKS OX .V/SS/OX.Ihr LANDS. \wi; in view of all the present circumstances, to do so. Two very bright young Japanese ladies were also living and work- ing with them, Knoyesan and Shigimat/u, and a little Eurasian girl, named Mar- ion, whom Miss Howard has adopted. We had nmch earnest confereiice, - and learned from them the story of their trials and victories, and endeavored to counsel and help them all we could. We felt that Kagoya was too much occupied by other workers to need us, and our workers were only too glad to have the pros- pect of getting out and into the regions beyond. A good deal of the work at ^^agoya is educa- tional. There are two la- dies' schools, one under the Methodist and the other the Presbyterian Mission. The girls, as usual, looked verjr sweet and bright. It was Commencement Day in one of the P-hools, and we ]^eard their exercises and were struck with the grace and modesty of the graduates. We were asked to TWO NATIVE TEACHERS. .'INDS. lo SO. Two g and work- md a little ■»* ' %K HERS. looked very- in one of the e struck with were asked tiO ACh'ossj.ir.iy iiv rail. 517 address thcni. and we saw some tears in tlieif eyes as we talked of Jesus and His love. We had a pleasant visit at Nagoya, and received nuich kindness from all the other missionaiies as well as our own workers. But Dr. and Mrs. GuUck came on for us after the LAKE HAKONE, second day, and taking leave of our own and several • beauti- ful mountain, became a crown of glory upon its lot ty brow, teachiuK us that the things that often seem to hmder us, shall if we but trust and wait, not only be cleared from our pathway, but will leave a gUn-y and blessing which we could never have known if they had not come. Fujiyama is the pride of Japan. It is, indeed, a beau i- ful mountain, nearly 13,ooo feet liigh, about as high as the Rockies and ML Blanc ; and, standing in lonely isolation, with its perfec-t cone, is the chief glory of the Sunrise Kingdom, ard the beautiful cloud-capped signal, seen first upon her shores, as the voyager looks out from the long waste of waters for the first sight of land. Later we passed through the lovely Hakone country, with its soft green hills and its lake away up on the mountain side all reminding one bo much of the scenery of England, which Japan, indeed, so much resembles We reached Tokio at ten o'clock that night, and had a warm welcome from our host and hostess, Mr. and Mrs. Brand of the American Baptist Mission, two brave, true- hearted missionaries, full of faith and the Holy Ghost aiul standing for Christian whole-heartedness, Scriptural methods and aggressive missionary work in the midst of the many mingled currents of the religious life and work of Japan. The following week we returned a second time to their 1 1 for tho sky ven this 1 it- down, the tho beauti- lofty brow, hinder us, ed from oui" ch we could ed, a beauti- high as the olation, with se Kingdom, st upon her ng waste of country, with ,he mountain f of P^.ngland, ;ht, and had a Mr. and Mrs. ) brave, true- tly Ghost, and tural methods ) of the many of Japan. 1 time to their > z > o > lif 520 j.ARf'i'K orri.ooKs ox flrrssroxARV /..tyos. liospitable liome, to meet tlie missionaries of Tokio in their <;hapel, and dnring onr brief visit to Tokio we were much rheered by their fellowship and kindness. They belong to a class of missionaries which we rejoice to find increasing in the foreign field, and through whose closer fellowship and TOKIO. united testimony a deeper spiritual life and a stronger type of faith and holy character are yet to come to the workers abroad. We rejoice to believe that the movement ^ill be in- aiigurated to bring about an annual conference of those of like mind in some central place in Japan for mutual encour- VDS. io in their v^ere much aelong to a creasing in wship and Tonger type tlie workers it iJ^ill he in- > of tliose of tnal encour- ACROSS J. If. IX /{)' A\l/f.. 521 agemeiit and th.t; promotion of faith, hohnessand true spiiitual ])Ower on the ))art of both native anu foreign Chi-istian work- ers. During tJie two or three days spent in Tokio, we had the opportunity of seeing a httle of the great city and renewing many pleasant old ac(piaiutances as well as of forming some new ones. Miss Finch had spent several months in Tokio, and had already made excellent progress in the language, and enjoyed some opportunities of missionary service through an inter- l)reter. Vv e saw nuich of her both here and afterwards in Yokoliama, and were able to arrange with her the plan of her future work. She has had some severe trials, but the way is now clear and plain, and We are sure her work will be blessed, and Japan prove to her the field of the Master's choice. We called on our old friend, Mr. John Ballagh, of the Meiji Gaukin, or Presbyterian Collage, and we found that the term had just closed and the students scattered to their home.s. lie is ba])py in bis work, and surrounded by a new and bright family circle in his lovely home. He received us with nmch kindness, and came down afterwaids twice to Yo- kohama to show his brotherly interest in us, and at last to see us off. His old American friends Avill be glad to see him back in the United States next year. The college at Tokio is very nuich like the Doshisha at Kyoto— an educational estab- lishment for the higher training of the Christian yimng men of Japan, and especially for the theological training of candi- dates for the ministry. m m Mm 522 LARGER orri.ooKS OX M/ss/ox.i/^') /..ly/is: There arc not Meaily so many studeuts as at Kyoto- about two Imndied m all, we believe, and a l.tir i ropox'tii.n of these are theological students.- Tlie colletAL' buildings are very handsome and the site is superl). We found the same tendenry in Tokio that m- have al- ready referred to, looking towards (lieindepeudent c of the na- tive churches ; and it setriis prokibic that the foreigti workers in the college may be reduced. Indeed, som- of them have already gone t. America and may not return to .TiipuM. W.- had {.vieat pleasure in meetinj.^ Miss Anaa Perry, forme' v r-.r X.'vv York, and hearing some of the facts re- spectJnj.>; h>i j-tost ijitoresting and successful work. She has opened hi' own home for her meetings, and she told us how eagerly the peop\ U'urned by tlie mail timt icaduMl Tokio wliilc we were tlii'ir. that ht r dear sister, Miss Faiiiiy IN'ii y. ol' New York, so loii^ aftlictcd witli the most distressing of all diseases, had Ixrome jH-rfectly well. We had several very cordial iiivitations to visit tln' Metho- dist Conference in Tokio. which was just assend)ling as we left Japan, hut our time would not permit more than a brief dro|» in for an hour to hear Bishop Foster give a lectnre on astronomy at the opening u-ception. We did not (juite see the connection of the subject with the occassioii, although the lecture was a good one, and wehad no doubt the Conference would jirove a time of blessing. There are about twenty missionaries and as many native preachers in the Methodist Episcopal Mission in Japan. It is not on<' of the largest missions, but it is a good one. Wo met a nund)er of the missionaries and presiding elders, and found them good men and tiue, with hearts reaching out for deeper spiritual things. Dr. Daniells, whom we had known in America, had been spending a year in Tokio. and by his earnest preaching in the jiovver of the Holy Ghost, had been a means of inspiration and st in mission and Christian work, and throngh Ins connection with the consnlar office has rendered invaluahle service to all nnssionaries. He has fcndered nnu-h help to the Swedish missionaries, and is m deep sympathy with their hnmhl.', self-denying spirit and work. We leceived some useful snggestions (nmi him, and before we saile.l were glad to have a message from him com- mending to <.ur missionary consideration a great unoccupied field of islan.ls, Iving off the east coast of Japan. There are a great many missionaries in Tokio, almost one hundred, and almost all . arieties of methods are represented. The American Episcopal Church is at present .ei>iesented by liev. Mr. i'age. one of the sweetest spirits we hav met abroad The American V .tists have a strong work a ^ev- eral foreign lal.orers. Mr. and Mrs. lirand's work, especially, U much bl.'ssed, jind constantly re, civ ing accessions. The Canadian Methodists, un.ler Mr. Eby, have a great popular 1 ibernarVs and are tryii • to draw the i>eople by the methods usual in American ci as-popular lectures and illustrated Gospel addresses. We have already referred to the men- can Fresh Mevians ami Methodists. Our Swedish friends m Tokio are biUTowing awav .h.wn among the lowest masses,, ■i.vns. I otluTH may [ ov»>r against n Tokio, and in Japan, is io. Ho is in md (UniHtian L)nsular office I'it^s. Ho has ics, and is in n^ spirit and loin him, and orn him com- it luioccupied io, ahiiost one e represented. e[)resented by ■vve hav' met work . ^ev- )rk, esp«*cially, cessions. The great popular )y the methods and illustrated to the nieri- ;lisli friends in I owes* masses, j4C/fOs /.l/'.rV l!Y KAIL. 525 and their labor is not in vain. We went to visit one of their chapels, and they showed us the narrow streets smd lanes all around, where dozens of families Imddled together fis cloH<>ly as in the dives of New Yoik. An effort was made last winter by Mrs. Morris, of liil, A STREET IN TOKIO. n l..v,.l „t lo»t and «nf,.l l,„...amty ,m«tmto at tl.,. ;::;::ri>,v M...,,-, »„,. accptm, ^^^ 0„m,nn„Salvat,on AVithout rosp^'ct ..f l»'lSOnS. f ,...nrlnVK iu Tokio i» an unniense city, w o spt m i •' TOWER AND MOAT, TOKIO CAST UE. a,.ivi„« about it i„ -Jinrik.has,- and itUterally t-''-^-" to ,ret anywhere. It seemed as lai-ge as l.ond.«. It .s ^a.d t, b 7ght mile, e«:h way, o,- about sixty on,- mae, lal, We thought Nanking an immense e,K-losu,-e ; but Toir is twiee as la,-ge. It has a population of more '^"l^; :-monanaac„arter. There are many -^^^^^^^^ ings. The National University, tl,e Eoyal Pala^, the MM _i I VPS. jonest ofTort 18808, on the itrato at the on Salvation I two days in y took us hours i(>ii. It is said cty-four miles enclosure ; but of more than a gniftcent build - Palace, the for- I i .iCA'OSsy.iRix nv rail. 527 eign hotel, the Sliiba Templt-s, and the great Moat around the t'ortner citadel, are striking erections. The prettiest thing about it is the natural situation. It is really a collec- tion of villages, the one running into the other with a rustic freedom nowhere else to he found. You ride along for a while dcwn a great business street, with American horse cars running down the middle of it. and, by-and-by, you branch off into a nar- r o w street w h i c h soon becomes a winding lane lined with the lovehest ever- green hedges, neatly cut like a living wall, and hiding be- hind them a pretty villa, or little cottage. You pass along through a perfect network of these pretty lanes, until you i-each a hilltop, where you get a view of another hill beyond you covered with similar streets and houses and hedges. And so you pass on from village to village, over undulating hills, through pretty valleys aud ravines, and occasionally through a business street, until you wonder if it will ever end ; and, at length, after you have been run for several hours through all these interminable ATAGA YAMA, NEAR SHIBA TEMPLE. -JL^ 528 LARCr.R Oin.OOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. roads, you reach your destination, and begin to wonder when you will ever get back. We know no place just like it, so metropolitan, yet so rural ; so romantic yet so substantial and great. It is as unique as Peking-^ the worthy capital of the most curious, mixed- up and clever littlepeople on the faceof the globe,-thepeople of New Japan. . ■f^j y^ki: ■ ■ I ' .^^Wl ' --■,-•■> '" *». — onder whftu itan, yet so is as unique oug, mixed- — the people wrmc i^ i . :*? ■'^m xxvin. LAST DAYS IN JAPAN. WE spent our last week in Yokohama. It was a strange luxury to look on our old wayworn bags and bundles, and try to realize that we had only to pack and unjjack them once more before we should be homeward bound. But much yet remained to be done ere we could bid the great Orient good-bye, and we needed to make the most of every moment that yet remained. Services had been arranged for Sabbath and Monday evenings in connection with the Union Church. Dr. Meacham is the earnest pastor of this church, whose membership con- sists largely of missionaries. Such honored names as Hep- burn, Loomis, Ballagh, Booth, and many more as widely 'known, make up the constituency of this influential parish. We had the piivilege of meeting most of the missionaries in Yokohama, not only at the services on Sabbath and Monda}- evenings, but also personally. Good Mrs. Pierson, the senior missionary of the Woman's Union Missionary Society, and for many years the warm friend of all our missionaries, and herself a member of our Alliance, received us most kindly and invited us to address her eighty Bible women the last night we were in Japan. 529 , 1 iilBH Mia 530 i^;.:i..an papers, and gave us nrr.h va - 'Ile'infornuvtion abont Christian -vU in t e e„P^e^ ^ Ja,nes Ballagh, of ^^^^^^^ t Misln- "■" r"* -" S—t, "okohama, kindly attended to our busmessforus,a„d.sthe^^^ any forwarding busi- other nnssionaiy 01 t'^\""' „y (,ie„d of many ness in Yokohan.a. M,ss f;";";™'^^,^ her seventieth year, ago, was here, t«o, »* -«j;*J,^" ^^ has a large birthday, but was lo*mgf-''y»^ ^,, missionary home and «<>«"'"' ^ir-^ionary under Goodell, who lately came f"'" Tex^ f ! '^^^ ^j^^ '^er for ,be An-c-vas^-ifr^^^^^^^^^^ Miance mis- ""ires tas in YotoLma, and had .,een for about a year s,onanes was m ^ ^^^^_^^ ,_^^ ^^^,^ ^,„a. ''"s'^d *: le*; — ^ to her. Miss Pratt has made e. nossandisdi^piy .^ ^ ^^^.^^^ ^^^ ^,^^3 cellent pvogi-ess ■" *« "'"^ « ^u, g^^day school of «"'• r 'I^M-i- Mashing village, down by the over fifty children ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^.^^^^ „£ ':l*ir WH, *ewas\eaching the youngand unkempt LAST DA VS IN JAPAN. 531 ANDS. ill the work, ^eminai-y, the rkers, showed Bible Society, n all matters )n, called and i us much val- empire. Mr. s devout spirit f the Mission- ittended to our same for any i-wavding busi- riend of many [ her seventieth She has a large ,f guests. Mr. tif^ionary under ae with her for ur Alliance niis- f or about a year her much kind- itt has made ex- light and gifted Sunday school of re, down by the ower stratum of Ling and unkempt little crowd in front, the rest of the family were drinking their tea, cooking and eating their rice, and winding and un- winding their nets in the back of the room. But the little faces were earnest and bright, and certainly kept much better order than the usual crowd of American street boys would VOKOHAVA have done at home. It v.. probably the only httle ray of heavenly light that ever .".ils on those dark and neglected httle lives. . We saw all we cared to of Yokohama. Jt is the chief port of Japan. It has a population of about 120,000, and a 532 lahcer ovti-ooks on m.'^sfox.iny lands. large foreign trade. Uh foreign Bun.l is large and well built and compL favorably with other Oriental c.t,e^ although it is interior to Shanghai, Calcutta and Bon>bay. Most of the fomgners reside on the Bln«, which in a bold and handson.e elevation, running out between the harbor of VoVohama and the larger Bay of Tokio. It affords a magnificent s,te fo private houses, i,eing cool and retired, and connnand.ng good views of the harbor and bay. Here the vdlas are most luxurious, and the grounds spacious and eleg.ant. Like the lotus-eaters of old, the missionary who stays too long he,c may find his strength paralysed and bis spun enervated f o. the sacrifices and hardships of the interior. ^ o do not say hat there are not trne, loyal and self-denymg nnss.onanes Iven in these luxurious surroundings, bnt they need to "watch and pray, lest they enter into temptation Among the foreign residents here we we>-e glad to meet our old friend, Mrs. Jennie Bramhall, formerly of B™*ly», Td sister of Mrs. Frances Barrett, of the Gospel Tabernacle New York. We visited her in her elegant home, and found heTtiying to bring up her httle family in the fear of God^ Her hnsblnd represents a wealthy Now York sdk house, and S business gives employment to n>any tens ot thousands of Japanese. She has been very kind t» some of our mrssion- aries, and her house has been for them a welcome home. One of the missionaries took us out one evenmg late fo. a night view of this heathen city. We had seen Shanghai and Singapore by gashght, but Yokohama far exceeds them all in shameless sin. IVDS. d well built, es, althouglt Most of thi' d handsonio Vohama and cent site for landing good as are most it. Like the 00 long here ■nervated for e do not say niissionaries hey need to 5n." glad to meet of Brooklyn, i\ Tabernacle, lie, and found i fear of God. ilk house, and [ thousands of f our mission- ime home, ^rening late for seen Shanghai exceeds them -I o z z tn fn < O o I > s > . ,,. ^p|pM| l pup^^yJ^ pj^ /..isr D.ns r\ J 533 ' ilooded, so brastly, ,i> (iveiy true humau ide sutticient to freeze most degraded Imiuan T^iere in no indelicacy in descrihii it, for it is open to fver> ye, an stall, ♦lecked for the shanddes. It \va- ^ so coarse, so ghastly, so utterly frelinp;, that one would think th the very pulses of vice in all 1 hearts. No wonder that Yokohama bears the name of being, so ' at least, as its foreign i)o|)ulation is coMccrned, the wick- city even in wicked Japan. Some of the streets were full of tht atres, open to the public gaze, wiiere the dreary, monotonous sliow got s on for hour after hour before the ])atient sjjectators. Others were crowded with archeries and various shows, and all were full of people, surging past in countless throngs, till far into the night, all apparently happy, careless, gay, and free from (>very thought of the morrow. It was a good picture of one phase of the nation- jolly, laughing, boyish, young Japan. Sometimes the ludicrous comes up in bright Japan. They are not a people to be laughed at, but they do some laughable things. Here is an advertisement on the front of an artist's store : " Want <'d -An Order. Your Picture — wiU he made cheap on seiv^ iiis photograph." 534 L.lh'Cr.h' OUTLOOKS ON MfSS/O.y .1 h'V LANDS The 8hop8 are full of toys of every kind— flying fish, birds that inflate and float in the air, boxps of miniature ani- mals, gods, cities, and every conceivable thing. The children are everywhere, and the streets are full of tlieir jollity, fun and happy freedom. The native stores are much cheaper than the foreign. There are many of the latter, where costly curios are sold to ex- travagant travellers at great prices. The same things can us- ually be bought in the Japanese stores for half the price or less. The principal art- icles that foreigner.-; generally indulge in are bronzes, silks, em- broideries, lacquer work, tortoise shell, photographs, and thi^ very pretty engraved pictures on their rice paper, which they hang on screens and banners with such A JAPANESE PEDDUER. l^^^^V effeCt. But WO \V N -^J ._, i,^4 JV/)S flying fish, liaturo aiii- Iie children jollity, fun ho foreign, nany of the ere costly sold to ex- .ravellers at ces. The '^H can us- ught in the stores for ice or less, •incipal art- foreigners indulge in s, silks, eni- lacquer toiae shell, lis, and the :y engraved n their rice 'hich they screens and with Bucli ct. But we m dm^&^mmjm-m ^- ■ r 1 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4 /- Vi ^ 1.0 I.I _jQ BW (fflaESE 1^ 12.2 Hi — 6" 2.0 1.8 L25 IIIIII.4 I1IIII.6 <^ /: c# %'^> ^> v: i. Wiotograpnic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 (v V ^\\ ^.^ "b ^ ds m? ^ rf CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Hbtorical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de nricroreproductions historiques iliiHli EXTERIOR OF A JAPANESE HOUSE. Krproduction froin a Japanese Painting. i I '"""^"^ ' '""""""''^'"'"'nffii -w L/'ST DA YS /X JAPAN. have learned too well the value of money for higher purposes to be strongly tempted even by these extraordinary bargains. We had much earnest work to ilnish in Yokohama. Scores of letters had accumulated, and many matters affect- ing our missionaries in India, Malaysia and China, as well as Japan, had to bo settled by correspondence before we left the great Eastern Hemisphere. We had been waiting nearly a week for our good brother, Mr. Lelacheur, to come from Singapoio to consult with us about our whole work in China and the Straits Settlements and Islands. So important had this seemed, that we liad even felt justified in calling him from his important work in Sing- apore, and a proposed journey to the Caroline Islands, for the purp ' of conferring with him about the larger superintend- ence of the whole work in China, including also t!ie Malaysian coast and islands. For this i)Uipose he had arranged to come to Yokohama to meet us before we should sail, that we might together go over all the plans of the work, and then separate to our resp /e fields, he to Shanghai and we to the west- ern world, to i;l> our people to sustain him and his felloM-- workers by our prayers, counsels and contributions. For days we had no word from him, and it seemed as if he might not be able to make the necessary connection. But at length he arrived, just one day before we were to sail, and those last hours, incluchng most of the night, were spent in earnest, prayerful conference and arrangements. Our beloved brother had come without a moment's delay, and with all his heart met our suggestions and requisitions. How we thanked 52^ LARGER Orri.OOKS ox MISSIONARY LANDS. God for liis spirit and for his valuable experience and train- ing ! He was just the man our work needed at this critical stage in these immense fields. And we were able to commit to him all that God had been laying on our heart in those vast oi^'iiings, and all that He had been permitting us in some lnunble measure to begin during these past days — with the confidence that it would be faithfully, loyally, and cour- ageously carried out, in so far as the will of God should per- mit and the power of God should enable. We thanked God for the rest with which we were able to hand over all this great trust, which had been absoi-bing us night and day. After all these long months of perplexity and toil, we felt we could turn our faces homeward, with the delightful consciousness that the threads were all knitted to- gether, and ih«> moorings all made fast in the hands of God, and the humble, faithful stewardship, which is a pait of His plan. Then, too, we had much earnest thought and responsi- bility for the work in Japan. We had come to these beautiful islands, after the heavy strain of two hai'd months in China, with something like a sense of repose. We had felt somehow that we had got through our birdest tasks on the mission field, and that we should have three weeks of comparative ease in looking over ■ this smaller field, and arranging the simpler and easier ques- tions of our mission in Japan. But never were we more mistaken. Never had we been called to meet, in so short a time, so many trying, perplexing I and tiaiu- this critical to commit irt in those ttiiig us in ilays — with , and cour- should per- e were able absorbing perplexity d, with the knitted to- ds of God, part of His d responsi- the heavy hing Hke a e had got nd that we oking over asier ques- id we b«en perplexing /.AST PA YS !N JAFAN. 537 matters, whicii weighed down our spirit night and day, and held us every moment in conscious dependence on that very Mind of Christ for the wisdom, without which we would be so sure to err. They were questions of which we cannot speak in the public ear ; but He who knows all hearts knows well how hard, how delicate, how important, how varied, how perplex- ing they were, and how they arose in new forms from day to day, and how gentle and gracious and wonderful the way in which He guided, overruled and worked for us and for His work, and out of much that seemed confusing at length brought, we lielieve, His own wise and simple plan and order, through which, although it may be small as a germ of mustard seed, and humble as the company of fishermen- apostles, we believe He is yet to bring great and lasting blessing for Japan. When, at last, we got through the tangled mazes, and had nothing left but to mail our bundle of letters, roll up our rugs, and send our baggage on board the ' ' Oceanic, " w^e had but one regret left, and that was that we had not some of our Tabernacle friends at hand to shout with us, " Blessed be the name of the Lord ! " On Friday morning, July Tth, accompanied by half a dozen true friends, we stepped on board the steam launch at Yokohama, and in half an hour were in our cabin on the "Oceanic," commending our beloved fellow -workers, in a parting prayer, to the care of Him whose Presence covers land and sea. and knows no dividing space or time. 538 LARGER OUTLOOKS ON AffSSfONARY LANDS. In a few minutes we were mutually waving our affec- tionate adieue as they .ailed back in the stean. launcl. arul then we were cIT. Th. fluttering signals, the ruo s of Yoko^ hama, the shores of Japan receded from view, and our great Bhip was sweeping homeward. Six months of intensely busy travel were abotit to end, and we began to xealize how nmch cause we had for gratitude and praise to Him who had s.> graciously gmded and so w.m^ drously guarded us through all these changn.g scenes, and ^rfkindly kept the great trusts that we had Je t at .me Just before we sailed, our cup was made f ulle, by letters from India and China, telling of good news fron. all om- work God had already opened one new station in Cential China and given us a house at Han San H'sien. And from Shanghai came the tidings of the great impi-ovement, am it was hoped recovery, of the dear Swedish missionary we had ^ft in uch distress there. From India came the tidings of two other open fields of service, and God's help U. our dear n^issionaries through all the terrible ^^^^^^^ f ""^^"^'^^^^ son Along with this came the message from deai Mi s. Fuller hat her dfrling babe had been taken out of this furnace of summer heat to the home where the sun shall not light on them nor any heat ; but with it came a letter so brave, . • trrhearted, sounselflsh, so full of thought for others that we could only thank God, with humbled heart, for her heroic spirit, and the victory that faith can bring. From across the great seas came also the message that our own dear mother had just gone to join our revered and [)uv affec- Linch, and 1 of Yoko- onr great it to end, • gratitude id so won- cenes, and t at home. ■ by letters .tu all our ill Central And from lent, and it iry we had ! tidings of ;o our dear he hot sea- Mra. Fuller, ? furnace of i(»t light on so brave, i' ) others, that )r her heroic Message that revered and LAST D.iVS f\' JAP.IN. 539 honored fatber in the home above. We thanked our Fatber for her fourscore years, and the sweet memory of her life and love, and for that dear and v«Mierable father, wlio, at eighty-four, had just a little while ago passed on before, and we felt that they bud not gone very far away. How nnuii of this rich bh^sing that has crowded onr life is due to their faithful prayers ! Tliank God for their precious lives and everlasting memorial. And from our home in New York there were so many cheering messages of synipatliy and remembrance and prayer, and the record of the generous kindness that had met the loss of our publishing bouse through the recent fire, that our cup was filed to overflowing, and we were made to feel utterly unv/orthy of all this goodness, and utterly unable adequately to express our grateful praise. How faithful G(.d has been to all our dear flock and our dear work at home ! We have had nothing but notes of praise from the work in the TaOernacle, Berachah Home, the College, Hebron, the Orphanage, the publishing work, the Door of Hope, and the Missionary Board. The presence of the Holy Ghost has been constantly "ith our beloved people. The spirit of unity and love has pre . c led. The means for our great niissionaiy work have continually been supplied by onr Father's bounty and His people's faithfulness. How can we sufficiently bless Hib gracious Name and thank His beloved people ! May His richer grace enable us to be worthier of all His love. XXIX. THE SITUATION IN JAPAN. BKF< )RE wo get beyond the shore-line of Jiiimn, let us try to gather up the mingled iini)ression3 that have he«Mv growing into something like a ])icture of this interesting people, as we have passed through their midst these twenty days. If anything that we may write should go hack to Japan, as doubtless it will, we tiust that the picture will be recog- nized as the sketch of a friend. We cannot, even to avoid criticism and i.ain, be false to our convictions ; and yet we tmst that we niay not exaggerate an eccentricity or a fault, or fail to give full credit to every real merit. Of course, like the sketches of our little kodak, these are all flash picture's, taken at sight, and not pretending to be elaborate' and studied drawings ; we simply give them for what they may he worth. The people are always the first thing y*)U see. How shall we describe a Japanese? A little, dark, thick-set man, always reminding you of a boy, with round head, flat features, and an immense growth of thick, black hair.'that usually is cut short and stands on ends like a 04" I»uii, let us that liave re of this hoir midst t to Japan, be recog- '11 to avoid ind yet we or a fault, t, these are iding to bo e them for ittle, dark, with round thick, black ouds like a THi'. siTr.\rio\ I\' I IPAS. 541 young forest of underbrush. This was our hrst iiripression of a Jap. If ho is a coolie, ho weais a blous*; ovtT his back, a cloth around his loins, and a pair <»f straw sandals on his feet. If he is a "riksha" man, he mayhaveona sijit of navy blue, consisting of a loose blouse coat, skiiitiglit, blue drawers, straw sandals, and a white hat. like an inverted wash basin, « on his head. If he is a gentleinati, lie liiis a loose robe, like a ilress- inggown. called a " ki- mono," gathered about his i»(»ison, reaching t<» his feet, and fastened with a sash, and on bis feet a pair of wooden sandals, raised about three inches from the ground by w o o d e n cleats oi- props, to keej) him above the mud, and perhaps add to his height and supi»lement the defect of nature in completing his stature. If he is a little more Americanized than his fellows, he is dressed in a foreign suit, usually with short sack coat, punts, shoes and hat, and looks a little strange and out of place in his foreign "if- :^^^li0tb A JAPANESE COURIER. t4» LAKc.F.R orri.ook's OS mss/os/ipy lands. dre8B,-0on.ething lik. a K,>m<.»uuan ,.r u IN.le, but nmch darker fiiul Hhortt'r. Tho labor. ,., a.,d enpecially ...o " riksha" men, are very nmssive in their build, and tb<.ir lind.s are bko groat pdlar.. my run bko horacH. and go all over the land on tremendous '""Many of the educated nu-n have very bright, intelligent ^ faces, and a manly b(>arnig ; and while few Japanese men aie fine-looking, their extra- ordinary politeness, and their easy and charming manners, make them always attractive and interesting. A Japanese woman is a pretty study. She is almost always small. Indeed, they all seemed to us like girls of thirteen or fourteen. Their dress is very like that of tne men,— a loose robe, with im- A JAPANESE QiRL. monso slceves that hang down like wings. This robe is folded around her person, left quite too oTen at the bosom, and fastened around the wa.st wjth a sash which terminates over her loins in a g-at square bow, X a cushion, and n.aking one feel tempted to thn.k that she arries it to sit down upon when tired. Her face .s round and fuU, always pretty, and all faces very much ahke. One vns. but much n, are very 'OJit pillivra. tromemlouH , iutelligeut ly bearing ; puiiese men tb(Mr oxtra- 5S, and their ig manners, /» attractive woman in a ,l\o is ahnost Indeed, they like girls of rteen. Their e that t)f tne ^be, with im- at hang down son, left quite i waist with a t square bow, think that she face is round ;h alike. One '/•///■: s/Tf : I /vox i\ japan. 543 would think it must be very dithcult t»» pick out one's friundt) in Japan, the faces seem all so uniform. Her complexion is generally rosy, her eyes small andalnuMul-Hhaped, but brij^ht iind playful, her expr<>«sion kinw low, till their foreheads touch the ground, and repeat the ceremony two or three times until you won- der if they are ever go- ing to speak. Much of it, of course, is mere form, and back of it may lie a heart full of hppocrisy and hate. 'But it is often very pretty, although a good deal overdone. Their mental characteristics are Frenchy. They re- . ..PANEse MAN. mind you irresistibly of the poUshed race ^^^^^Z^^^ They are very bright, .mck^.n^ell^-^^^^^^^ andenthusiast.c;veryref^n^^^^^^^^^^ of change, superficial,lackmg m teeung THE srif A-rrox ixjirAX. 545 loi-ed good 1(1 studied. It is quite to see two •oiich eacli room, and till their touch the d repeat the wo or three 1 you won- are ever go- eak. Much ' course, is n. and hack lie a heart ppocrisy and it it is often ty, although eal overdone, ir mental •istics are They re- al irresistibly of the world, lious, intense, isive, hut fond iriDg strength. A JAPANESE VILLAGE. They have far outstripped the Chinaman at the start, but ' perhaps the Chinaman will win the race. , , , Yet their mental faculties are not to be undervalued. Everything must he judged by facts and fruits and the progress of Japan in a generation is phenomenal and un- paralleled. '.'.Tts^'^^m^^^s'^^vf^wi^mmmmin Te. yea,. n.o we thou«.,t - ];-; ^^t:!*" had to begin our studies ane\N "°11nTl:1lt:Lpi.. ,yin« .out,, o, Corea and Jai.an s an ^.^^^ ^ terntory of about Ave •"'""^; ;;„„„«„„ „„ U„ge a, Germany. J (50,000 square nnleb, ana a y \ "T— "ofrera. U,«e islands and a great many It cons,st8 ot ^ _^^^j^j^ government : one BmaU o,>es ^™ »ff ' j„ ^^, the sup.^rae head, dweU- «pmtua., "V!''\tta a^Kyotorand a.mo;t worshipped ; the i„g in sacred isolat.",! at Kjot ^ ^^^^^ othertemporal «,.d -- to 'eu ^^ ^„^ j^^p„^, ■J^L^rS:"--- a, it wasca„ed,_andits n^eX'aXoe -^:- -jrrBar::; -''-^'Ttl'f^lttte farr-chants. etc. or gentry, and then ,nm , ^^. ^^^^ ^^„ ^'*tr ^'Ay o — nt, patriotic and determined ''' Itol c^ghtened oligarchy, havi.>g carefully studied men, a soit ot enug".. modern civihzation, ■ »* ''^^'^r "m^roTlTtir country steadUy for have pressed th«' ''"'P« j^j ,e™lution so complete that wardint«apol.t,caland ^a ^^_^ ^j_^^^ „^ i^ the customs and t'''^'*'™^;' ^ ^^.^ ^ united monarchy, a single generatoon ^-^^^^^^eM English I^rda and '.ANDS. ;h of this land ouud that we n, has revolu- of Corea and a territory of B as Germany, a great many '^ernment : one ne head, dwell- ■orshipped ; the lilitary system, >f the temporal called,— and its castes of India, ne the Samurai merchants, etc. ings have been and determined carefully studied dern civilization, atry steadily for- 30 complete that en thrown off in imited monarchy, nglish Lords and presentatives, and INTERIOR OF A JAPANESE HOUSE. RcproducUon from a Japanese Painting. m I vi *tl! THE SirUAl I0^' IN JAPAN'. AN AVENUE IN JAPAN. 547 a franchise much more wisely regulated than our universal suffrage in America ; and along with the new political con- stitution has come a national system of Customs. Post,- offices, railways, telegraphs, telephones, police, and com- mon school and higher education almost as complete as in the western countries. A weekly Sahbath has been appointed, and is kept as a L '^'^ mmmm fi ?he Na«,.,K,. M,nt at ^ TTJ^ .^. «u„boats, and camum, ami V e ,v .th . K.^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^.^^^^^^ ,iii*" »ISl2 ■=S**s >^ 5*^»SS* THE "TOKA.DO," OR PUBLIC HIGHWAY, JAPAN. ,;!rtinW«B««««^-' DS. ished, and r. Native gunboats, sof Krupp ins to-day, ss.andthJ^y -"T^ THE STTVATrON IS' JAPAN. 549 ,t. The great students, and g up to it, and buted through hiurch nfiedstc* THE FALLS OF HAKONE. seud medical missionaries to Japan or even to teach them liigher education. They are imitating every western in- vention, and even the modern bicycle is manufactured m Japan, and sold at one-half the price it costs in America. Thei. Ship..., t,.aa» i« K;"--,t:-^„^':for: ^d i8 worthy of all praise. country. The first wo have »Vok''" « " i tCty.' » U a very thing 'hat 'mp-^se^ t « «^^ ^^ ^ ^^^.^„„^ ■ oflreon, its dwarf pines .t, nee « f/""! ,,a Inland Sea,itBHakoneI^lceanaN.kkoMo ^__^ of comparison wth any other la"". J 4 ^^^ rrrs:::iitr:rnrst:;^^^^^^^^^^ an „h,et oe Ch "r— inter^t. Its str^t. as a ruie, are Oean. ana its houses attractive and pleasant, A Japanese house is a perfect .deal of ta te For a summer residence •' -""V?^ ha. no pa^al ^_^_^^ Jor winter use it must he often « J^d. " comfortable modification before a f''™«";^ ";.,■: f^euine^ home. But in sunnner .t .s » P " ^^ » j^j^^, «, ad- S^hrror::;; ::;r :h:^" ^"--e -— '' hey run rea, and hey are igineers, e do not progress rhe first is a very jeeling in tains and ty. It is ;t3 shades :e mosaic nd Inland re worthy laint and e it t^ the object of are clean, nd beaaty. I, although leeds much iomfortable !8S, with its ons, its ad- apartment^ Tlir SiriATIOS' IS JAIWS'. 551 itH pivtty paper windows. an«"• •^- " ve\v..n.utt,.,-.y »h,K.U«l .,„., una »l...ul,l in .11 .-.v.!.";' ». ;'^,„.,i„„« ,.,.nted « ,. . ,;f,. t„ „.,,..v.. h..r f..tl e t"^^ „ t and morals. tvinoug til'' i>'»"^* ' ana vice. awaifea aiul defective We Lave been t ^^'""^ ^^ j, A.noHtevery Japanese We are strongly ten^.ted to ^^^^- ,^, j, ,Uape, and hears the niatws ancestoi-s. i,.riuential native Christians We rejoice to k.u.w ^"•"*7"7*: "; .^ ,,,„,^i ,etorm as .irintr in hr nn Jihout sucn a nioi.vi are bravely working ^^»;'»'"^ the Mikado to the meanest ^iU sweep all the way down ^-'^ ^«J^ ^.^ ^^^^ ,,ierated -He, and will a^oU^h l^ X.-.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^_ ,,^, ,. .^ immorality m e • - >;rn . ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^, ^„„^,,,. permanently gv . - ^^ ^^^^^^^.^^ ^^,,,. i,,„,,s. hood, punfy '^^'^ .i.annu.,u. ,,MW«iiawi»^^-«'^" n Tin: sin .1 Tfox /\ / mix. 553 it, and it. Tn- nil lift'. ^nu«^ it years to i-es3, and poet and irt f«'asta B live in 3 tone of to laxity (U'fective lue to the IS passed. r Japanese r in shape, tiou ill his Christians [ reform as ihe meanest u\ tolerated hope to he her woman- es. mi^^ionary ^^oinK on to irts .f the Tl'.opulilKuUitua-ion in .l««i, us it uffe ji^,„,t to see how the „„daly at '""*'•'■ ""llonKuig fov independence, desiring to growing native church. '»■«:"*: ', ^„ ^^ke the most Leioparea, ^'^^X^^^^^^'"' ^"■"^"™^ „t all the money. »* ^ ^^i;,,, „„,i,,,e to fully understand ,„.an that ■^-;S:;:t;.cun,stances in which the for- :tT::UWrsh:u,d he temped to .ay. ■^«ive us your --•-"::;r:— -e'»pro,.a.^ In view ot all these ^^^^^ g^^.^. ,.^.t time ^ -^ -tr— Jl foreign element hy »«-^°*'7:;, ^trff'a gradual transfer of the work to degrees and 1-P;« f^^^^ ,,, g„i„g home and some may native hand. A good y^_^ ^^.^„„,„,mw „y these sue- not return. But even i j : jjfy their with- ,«rf„l missions is not yet '*"!^^^; ^ J, ,, /et only 20,000 drawal. Together these t«o ""^'"''l^^^J^'ovk has but converts out of forty million peo,^. and ^h«r ^^ _^^^ begun. 0«1 must ha.. -- ^^^;X hear from some of ing this difficulty. ^;'\;; ;:; J„„,ries the assurance that the oldest -<•--;;'*„ he done by foreigners in Japan, there was tuucU woik yet e-iSTSST s-''' t"-«$rf-i-r' ^ it times -n some reigners eachers. id, while ,d yen- pressed how the 'Siring to the most imetiraes iderstand I the for- . us yom- bly at the older soci- iiement by »e work to soine may these suc- their with- only 20,000 ,rk has but ay of meet- om some of turance that rs in Japan, THE sni-.rj/ox ixj.iPAX. 557 and undiminished need for their presence, counsel and in- fluence. The other missions and churches do not seem to have felt so strongly or at all seriously tliis ultra independent spirit. Perhaps there are reasons in their own methods of work which will account for this. As we have looked at the whole situation in Japan, we have had the following consider- ations deeply impressed upon us as they affect the present needs of the work in this land. 1. There is need for a deep si.iritual movement. Much of the progress of Japan has been educational and intellectual. Much of the work, even of the missionaries themselves, has been to develop a young giant of philosophical culture and theological smartness, who is in danger of growing too strong for them. We could not help feeling almost everywhere m Japan this sense of intellectuahsm and the cry our heart was for the deeper, humbler, diviner strength c . ae spiritual life, which crucifies the strong-headed will, v .ich lays ec- clesiastical ambition in the dust, which baptizes with tender- ness and love, and which brings the power, not of strong and self-sufficient men, but of the Spirit of the living God. We are sure that this and this alone will save the churches of Japan from a great crisis, and that it must come upon the missionaries as much as upon the native churches. All over China we found the cry for this blessing on the part of the missionaries. We have met a good many in Japan of the same spirit, but not nearly to the same extent as in China. Our heart's cry for this land is a deep spint- Rii«ssr.-«iW«»*^ ■mii 558 LARCr.R OUTLOOKS ox MfSSlONAR V LANDS. ,^1 movement, a aeepening of spiritual life, a separation ual ^««^^"^^ l^. f„, ,,onal holiness and near- frnm the worul, duce ItseU ab«>ad. And a THE SITVATION IN JAPAN. 559 s. paration nd near- grant it We are rely little I. There ies whose eiy clear, id united c opinion help and the mis- 9tudy, but lired. movement and such a ■sin South- ^ the older 8 Mr. Ishii, consecrated lers we met any other scatter the le source of e church. A )ad. And a worldly church will have like cliildivii in heathen lands. It is not very strange that when many of the Japanese students came to America, and found at Harvard and Yale a cold and indifferent type of Christian life, and a very broad and liberal theology, they went back to Japan to tell their people that they had been practicing too rigid a religion, and that the high-toned Christianity of America's best circles was a very much freer and easier style of thing. Is it any wonder that the Japanese mind became saturated with such ideas, and a fruitful soil was prepared for the rationalism, the Unitarianism, the higher criticism and the indifferentism and worldliness that h ave- alas !- made much headway already in this bright new land. How were these children to know the difference ? The remedy for all this is going to be found in the Holy Ghost. We rejoice to believe that a strong, united and un- compromising party of men and women is being gathered by the Holy Ghost from all the missionaries in Japan. This is the spirit of Mr. Buxton and his workers in the north- west, and his brave, true testimony has been made a great bles^ng already to the missionaries ad well as to the natives. This, we trust, will ever be the spirit of our missionaries in Japan'. And this has been the testimony of many others whom, perhaps, it would be invidious to name, but whom, we believe, God would unite heart to heart and hand in hand to seek for Japan her greatest blessing— the enduement of power from on high. 2. Along with this, the next greatest need of Japan is a . • +Vi« fioKDel to the \uaoc- bold aggressive n>ovo,nent to g.ve the Go«,.eI o„piedfleld» and the neglected cUsBe. ^^^ ^ ^^ Ve.y much has '--' .*™ J\!, had sup,K,»ed. We evangelism in ^='^7 ' ^^ to«ns and villages in all we,, delighted to "-J™^°a the Ueaty ports, had parts ol the empire, a d ai bey ^^^^^^^ .^ ^^^^ been occupied successfully. Thue ^^^^ ;„ world nearly so ->' -^t f^ thout nJonaries, and Japan. ''^^--J^"';: Tlhvvest coast, that we hope it is to some ot these, on tn^ immediately ';«-':t::,::tt\t:^^^^ been cached at But there is one eiemoi anomaly aU, and that is "« ^iX a ^afnot been given to amo»«— to hfientT-the samurai class-and the the. poor, but to t^e gent ^ „„evangeh.ed. There are common people are yet manuy ^^ ^^^^ W- ».«.-o» yi»'.™« ';^-; :„^Cdo„r to the betU,r have been reached «°f *"* Xly entered it. But He .s classes, .f *«*:;* trllsionary movement which calUng to-day, «e believe, tor a Japanese wm go wider and 'o--.-™ ^ teaching them to go themselves an unspeakable "'*»«»« Christianity and to their humbler brethren in the spirit lead them by thousands to Jesu^ ^^^ty i, japan (or 3. We believe there is a special opp ,^_^^ ^^ '"^ "'^^''%'e' ::::: "rirstVe number is Umil.^ MMB JL THE SI TV ATI OX IS' J- 1 PAN. 56T i vmoc- ri-easive- d. We es in all •rts, had in the even in ries, and we hope Bached at anomaly I given to -and the There are V of these the better But He is lent which r Japanese them to go ,tianity and II Japan for srlandBiich r is limited, ssionaries in. India or China would shout for joy if they could conunand them. We believe God is going to raise up and ])repare a great many more, and send them out by hundreds and thou- sands as the future evangelists of Japan. We trust our own work in Japan may be able very largely to utilize and em- ploy these laborers. And it is our prayer that the work of Mr. Ishii may become largely a missionary work, and may train and send forth large numbers, not only of his own boys, but of others, baptized with his own spirit, to preach the Gospel in the power of the Holy Ghost in all the unoccupied regions of Japan. 4. And wo believe that God is calling His people in Japan to simpler methods cvn.d lives of humbler, holier separation from the world. Our herrts are too full of love to our dear brethren r.broad, and wc> b: ve too deep an appreciation of their trials, iiardship,:; r.nd unsellish purposes, to criticize their methocis of li\ ing. Bui, we boliove tlmt the fact that there have been inch criticisms, hof-h from the natives and from other novices, -ho Jd mc.kc> uo all wilhng to learn any lessons God has for ns, and to set such an example of sim- plicity, economy and separation irom the world as will make the line of demarcation abroad as sharp as it ought to be at home between the humble follow :r of Jesus and the fashion- able friend of the world. We have already said that the t;ost of living in Japan is much higher than in most other mission fields, and we are wiUing to concede all that is reasonable and necessary for comfortable and healthful homes, foreign food, winter fires 1 WBKKtmHmmmmm r-*!^ . . „llin.. Eveiv true mtasionaiy should to kept and extra traveUing. ''^^'', ,, . „„ K„t eleaant man- f ran. all need or c:are about these ""»«; J"' '^^ ^„,,,, lonj! summer vacations, ana boi,. unnecessary. j^^^g „( mission- We have no doubt ^at 'here a. j,, temptations aries he.., a. elsewhere and p«^^^^^ ^ ^^^^ ^^ a„a the freer social We o£tta-^^^^^ ^^„,^„,,i„„ ^„,e farther across ">« Ch..st,a„ ^^^ ^^ ^ ^^^^^ .„ ^''""r'ratror Xrinate'cHticisms, but in the sweeping chaiges or m ^^^. • ^ example of the niea „^est. consisi^nt -^™— Hrfntatlnd to live a ,„d women whorn God h-.™. brethren and before the true missionary Me ''f'°'" '".,,,„ j,i,,„ to prove to the heathen. We '*'-'» "'^V^f "^V^^t and, at the same .orld that ^«*;"t:,r^^ar"'ia Jalpan asweUas ttae. econom^a^woiU «>.n^ca ^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^ i„ India or China^ A ^_ ^^^^ ^.^^^ „^t,,. Boards said to us, only a ^^^ ^^^^^ preachers could be sustained fo the amou^ ^.^^ Uives asasalary,and th t^ --;^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^ lUm whether he ought not oie^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^_^^ ,„^.. could not be done by the^gh^ ^_^^ ^^^^^ ^_^^ eigner. ^«f;,-"^X "^Wch botU classes can be em- method should <« ^ "'""^^ *" ^thout the sacrifice of ployed, and yet the ut-^ — ^^^ .^ u,,ble is THE srrU AT/ON IN JAPAN. 563 s. 1 be kept int man- is courts, urely are : inission- mptations 1 have led marcation e found in )ut in the of the men d to live a before the »rove to the ; the Bame a as well as one of the sight native lich he alone lestion with : more good the one for- ut that some 8 can be em- le sacrifice of practicable is Let us pray that their experiment maybe so successful that the result will be full of encouragement for the future work of foreign laborers in Japan. What is the prospect of the evangehzation of Japan? It seems brighter than that of any other foreign country. With tact and wisdom almost every part of the interior can now be reached. The truths of Chiistianity are fairly understood by the reading portion of the nation. The sentiment of the people is not so anti-Christian as it is anti-foreign. A native Christianity is fairly popular. Buddhism, Shintooism and the ancient faiths have lost much of thoir power. There is none of the Caste difficulty we meet in India. There is none of the desperate antagonism we find in China. There is a fair disposition to listen to the truth almost everywhere. Converts are much more quickly won than in all the other fields Much can be done through an interpreter while the language is being acquired ; and yet we would advise all missionaries to learn it and use it as soon as possible. Na- tive workers can be obtained more easily than in any other field At present our advice would be to send comparatively few new foreigners, and only those of the very highest class, and ever to utilize native workers as much as possible, and by judicious oversight scatter them widely through the yet unoccupied districts of the land. We believe Japan will be evangeUzed before the end of the century, and that a blessed missionary movement ^ill go forth from its people, which God will use to reach the mil- lions of Corea, and the vaster myriads even of interior China with the light of the Gospel. M wmm'^ 5^4 BEAUTIVUI. JAPAN- All her 1.1.-. ar« »J^^^!°^m t,„ chlKlron ..n ».-. ■^Blie «o»ia r«ln °"*"'''f *,Ve,briBl>»«t«"l'»" . „„.v vhat a charm there linger* Land of wondrous ^;*"^y;;;;*Jower and tro. ! Over every landscain-, ^^^'^ ^ ^^on thte But . brlsbt^r «^-y - t^xnt^Jn, o^thy Inlan.l Sea. Tl. ^n thy cloud-capped moun ^^^ •Tis ine Father's «^^Z^Xleemine Love ; ,TiB the blessej^^to;y^«4«^^^^^^^^^ wfavenly Bunri- ; ^£etCn ^e%r;ehfnioK fro. ahove. At the gates of Asia, ^^-ZVl^7J^oZ^^-'^ God has Beth^X tS and Corea's mUlions China's teeming «^y' ff^;^ ^o the Bon of Man. Wait for her to 1««^*{ *f J^J^ ^^ claim thy calling, Rise to meet t^^ '"'«tn;Sing on the van ; ,Mid Mlllenn al "^^^^ Jthe^Coming Kingdom, First to -"^t^h the Bunrise o^ ^^^^ , Islands of the Morning, oe" XXK HOME COMING. THE voyage across i\w Pacific lasted nineteen days, and was broken almost niidw..y by a short' stay at Hono- Inlu, in the Sandwich Islands. Oni- stoainship was the "Oceanic" of the Oriental and Occidental Line, San Francisco. She is fairly comfortable, but by no means a quick boat, and our greatest speed only slightly exceeded three hundred miles ji day. She was the first of the o(u^an racers of the White Star Line, but her engines have been greatly reduced in power And she is now chiefly a cargo boat. The ships of this line are net coini)arable with the splen- en we ^'J'L, hu* "o more than two gather a little company m the saloo , ^^ ^^^ ^^„^„^ "or three ot the t»-"«"" * nW ot ^^ J'>P»-" "" '""'• and the audience oons.rted ma.nly ,.--i^-ft. HONOLULU. .he.econd.ab,«thw.chie«y^;;n.^ 8pon«e to our earneet apl«". ' , ^^ g„t m used, I the Sunday cricket «'''"J;'>";Xbbath in this way, that J San Francisco, t» speudmg the ^ ^^ ^^^_^ _^^^^^^^^^ h« did not see any harm u.^^^^^ ^^^ ^,,^ ^„^„,, ,„d th. in the long story oi vii« » jfBseaaSKt'S for «mr [w very and oil [;o until it UH to tian two ofticers, n board. lin, purser mg cricket \xe evening , and in re- ted to give got BO vised, is way, that ther chapter liah and thft HOME COMING. 567 Americans abroad, and as we looked ut that little r of Japanese devoutly worshipping God in the midst of American ungodliness, we thought the day might indeed come wheu we should see companies of Japanese and Chinese missionaries coming to America to preach the Gospel to the heathen of this land. Our stay at Honolulu was very pleasant. The day w is charming, and the climate of the islands is, indeed, superb It IS, probably, the finest in the world. The thermometer ranges from seventy to eighty most of the year. It is never cold and it is never disagreeably warm. The trade winds continually blow across the islands, and maintain a perpetual breeze which is most refreshing. The vegetation is tropical and luxuriant, very much likt. Hong Kong, and almost as rich as Singapore. We took a drive to the mountain behind the town, and looked over the brilliant panorama of valley, hill and shoiv The picture was a very prett> one. At our feet the city lay embowered in palm groves ; and, just beyond, the water was gently breaking over the coral reef which surrounds the island, and which looked like a beautiful necklace of dia- monds, while the lagoon between the reef and the shore was the richest green ; and, beyond, the waters of the grtjat Pacific sparkled in the glorious sunshine in every tint, from the deepest blue to purple and crimson, at the far-off horizon Une where the ocean met the sky, and the exquisite bhie of the glowing firmament was fretted and chased with many- colored clouds. :;68 i..4KaKK o,:Ti.onh-s o,v MissroN.iK-yrAKDS Two imndi-ed miles »outh of Honoluh., on »"»«'« *^- ,a„d, is the g.anae,t volcano in the ««*V — J ^^ ,«,.ty stopped off to visit it. .ml we heavd »»>« "-' ^™ descriptions of its majesty and gx^ndem- I* ^. "^; lake of «.e, and its h.rid light illummates the n.ght with tei """ We found the islands agitated alK>ut the question of an_ nexation to the United States. We had the opportunity of sp^ng with some of the leading >.sidents on the govern- mS side, and we have also met a nmnher of members o^ he opposition party. We believe the £o.^.gn .-esidents are rgl in favor of annexation, but there is a considerable plrty even of these, who are opposed to it, and neariy aUthe C' planters rega.-d it as likely to p.-ove fatal to the bus.^ ,et! of the islands, as it will exclude the Japanese a^d " htoese laborer on whom they enth-ely depend for the cult.- ta^ of the plantations. We hav. no doubt that annexa- Z under the Geary law. which ^^'^^-^^^^^'^ l^^^. tion would he fatal to the prosperity of the islands ; but .£ that' outrageous act we,-e abolished, and the restncfon upon t e in«,mh,g of the Japanese and Chinese removed we be- : would be to the interest of the islands to ,o.n he rmerican republic, and we ar. sure it would g,ve t^ the t "ited States an influence in the East wh.cb would be of immense advantage. j + „„ It is impossible for oxxe who has not gone abroad to ap- preciate the value to Great Britain of her colonial posses- n A chain of miUtary stations hterally girdles the MWNi ►ther is- l of our thrilliug erally, a mth ter- >n of an- bunity of 3 govem- mbers of ients are isiderable rly all the the busi- mese and the culti- t annexa- immigra- ds ; but if 3tiou upon ed, we be- o join the ive to the ould be of •oad to ap- lial posses- girdles the world, and gives to Great Britain a connnanding influence among the Oriental nations which can scarcely be exagger- ated, and which to a great extent constitutes the glory of the British Empire. The American abroad is constantly made conscious of the absence of all these on the part of his own country, and the opportunity afforded in the Sandwich Isl- ands, at present, for the United States to hold the key to the Pacific Ocean is one that ought not lightly to be thrown away. We found the desire for annexation on the part of the Amer- ican people very intense, and the feeling of disappointment at the coolness with which the proposal was received at home is very strong and painful. We believe the American government is giavely weigh- ing the whole situation, and we have reason to hope that they will act with fairness and wisdom. No words can too strongly express the outrageous excesses of the late dynasty, and the thoroughly corrupt queen who was dei)osed last January through the storm aroused by her own despotic and reckless course. All the islands put together, however, do not amount to very much, numerically at least. The whole population does not reach to 100,000, and as one looks over the Blue Book there seem to be almost as many officials as there are citizens. The resources of the islands are, however, considerable. Sugar is the principal product, and \^Y^\or to the recent tariff system, immense fortunes were made by the planters. The principal value of this little country is its strategic position as the key to the great Pacific Ocean, and the island MMM ■ 5^0 ,^,C,R OUTLOOKS W M,SSrONARy LANOS. «o,M To Great Britain it woulA be a point of vast import^ ::. and i, She «et. the "P.— ^: ^X^ tZ\^ will not be slow to improve it To th« '••'^«"; ^^^^^ paradise, and if ^"'> ^:;^];^Z^,^Z^^^ -^ Mmy air and gaze on glorious veg j j tain a ve.7 pleasant existence on «-« "J^";^, ^^ even Honolulu soon grew tiresome to ^^'^^^J^l^ l^, when the hour came to take o„r ^ave ^^^^^^^^s The most ,,leasant nrcdent ot «";^?' ^7 „ b„^m hospitality of the hind "—»-"- irhJTand took us who received us most c.n-d,ally *-^h«u home "T ""^^S:irJ^— .:. Thereis'als„ag«,d work among the Chinese oi n ^^ ^^^^ -^ among tHe f ;-^^^^^^^^^^ 'Ifnrit::'^^^^^^^^^^ -more thriUing story oC extmct. Iherc is ^^^ evangehzatiou modern missions than the account of the Sandwich Islands and the laboi. of th. can missionaries. ^nlendid mce, and tlie These islande,. ~f ::^'„ ^j':; physical' develop- "^i:""Jn a,: tT^antic Itm^. and the women r: Of g1: si.. It is said that the e..,y .«.ns met by '•'^ t:rrarH::^'::i:":rmad: .. st.. ^r.A thnir morals are simply mdebcnbaoie. j ^;::u,"pe.>pK and when the time came for onr Lniport- em, she an ideal breathe t main- 33. But ere glad voyage, ourteous in Board I took us excellent so a good } are fast •obably bo story of igelization st Ameri- e, and the i\ develtip- le women, ms met by ;ht, and we , the state- ler a coarse They are a me for oiir > < m z c m > H m ? r Z I o z o r t: HOME COM INC. 571 steamer to leave, the send-ott" was characteristic. The wharf was crowded with hundreds of ]»eople, and everything had a gala appearance. A band of music was playing the liveliest airs, and every one who came on board was garlanded with the most gorgeous wreaths of flowers, and amid music and brightness we were sped on our journey by these genial and hospitable people. It seemed as if their heart was turning homeward, and they were caUing to their mother-land to receive them and recognize them as her children. Swarms of naked boys followed in the wake of our ship as we left the harbor, diving for pennies like the little African urchins that we had seen at Aden. At length we were off again, and before sunset the bold heights of Diamond Head had disappeared beyond the horizon, and the blue waters of the Pactific Ocean were again surrounding us on every side. Eight days more brought us to the Golden Gate, and our hearts were strangely moved as we gazed on the Seal Rocks at the entrance of the harbor, and at length rounded the pro- montory and saw just before us, lying in a beautiful basin, the teriaced streets of San Francisco. We had just an hour to catch the eastern-bound train, but again the kind Providence of God assisted us, and as the sun went down we found ourselves sweeping homeward through the Sacramento Valley, while that beautiful Ameri- can sunset seemed like a smile of welcome. And as we rode for six days aero? ■! the mighty continent we wondered how the world had done so long without America. L ■ w« brok. o,u- journey tor an hour or two, in Chicago to T 1 UM,- Moody and other friends to arrange fo. the meet with Mi . Moooy Ji t A„„„flt inth We spent e„n,ing International Convenfon o£ ^^^^'^^ J, „„ the Sabbath in Canada, m our od "^■"'''f "!>",„ ,,^„d, .he following Monday we ':-^:^^^^^Z. them ;:=:T;:drr:r^^^^^^^^ '"'' UZtr::^':^ ... that we haveheen just two — "-n nf\S'r: rro-Th^dr- ,„.e„ thousand nnle. of winch mo ^^ ^^.^ l«.n on seas and ^'"''''"'•''^^'J^^,^ ,,tffe„„t vessels ■, have boani, and a ,»»senger .m t^o"*^ ^^ „,; j^ ^Hh passed through fourteen great "''*'°"; J" 'J^^^j fifteen seas and oceans ; have crossea n ,v , ^„ three hundred and «=;'>• <';/;:::;;™ u^^o the North through almost eve,-,- .hmate, '™' "^ j^ ,„i,3i„„. Temperate zone and ''•^ '""^jf^^f^L representing a ,,es and P--~f^j;t :,::aand flfty'milUons, or population o£ moie tj-"" *■' ^ ^^ i„ „u these changing one-half the populafon of '^ fob- J^ ^ „,. scenes and circumstances, '■"'""; ""^^^.^ „, even to permitted us to 'o-. ->;;-*::l"w:Lnot thank miss a single -— ,^^^- ™^ ^l, ,„,, not only over rb::tfrt:!"ends and precious interests that were left in His hands in tho homeland. HOME COM IXC, 573 go, to )r the spont md on hands I them e than st two thirty- is have mship- i ; have }d with I fifteen ude and ve been le North mission- enting a Uions, or changing ed us or • even to lot thank only over i-ests that OIj, may Hn lit'li» us both toguthor to )>r«'ss on to Ktill greater things for this lost world, wliich He h;is porinitted US to see only that we nught make these needs nu»re real to the hearts of His people at home, and help them mo o faith- fully to fulfill their sacred trust for its evangelization and for the hasting of that glorious hour when this wonderful and beautiful world shall be redeemed from the curse that rests upon it, and realize the glorious i)urpose for which it was created and redeemed ! One of the strangest incidents of our journey is the gain oi a day in the circuit of the world. In our (")ri«nital diary we reached home on Tuesday, but by the Western Calendar it was only Monday. Somewhere out on the Pacific Ocean we had to drop a day. Wo had overtaken the sun and gained a day, and so wo had two Thursdays in one week. It is quite an unusual thing for us, in our busy life, to have a day to spare, but we trust we shall henceforth be found not behind time, but at least a day in advance. It won't hurt our self-importance as Americans to remember that our friends in China and Japan, that we think so slow, are nearly a day ahead of us in the march of Time, and while it ib night here it is morning there. We wish the Christians of America o.. ;-""- 'W» work :,:.! nearly two hundn„l »o..,ietie, a.e w,.Un„ to evan- """ Thtir:!. in.eei«sionarie., «">"' ""'^^ ;„ beneficence. ■ aeln which have marked the progress of the century, the hS^rP evidential and Pentecostal story of Mada^scar, Tahiti Fil the New Hebrides, and the Sandw.ch Islands ; o M^aU Uvingston, McKay and McCanU the story of the Zlt^. trmger the Con«o, and the African Lake m.s. t^s of the Telegus, the Tamils, and Northern „d.a ; of Zmah and Siam;ot Morrison, Medhurst, and the Chma M™d Mission ; and last of all, the marvelous transformation ^lanan in a single generation ; truly it may be weU 6a,d IX'e hav: be'en no fa.ts since apostolic times so stert- ter of the nineteenth centuiy. WHAT YET UKMAIN8? And yet, when we look at the other side of the picture, tv,«rfi is nothing on earth 80 dark. , . « * MohammeLnism has increased more than tl.nty md- s girdleff worlnnj; It for this ; to evan- ulition of ne of the on of $60 iticence. I incidentfl Qiury, the idagascar, slands ; of »ry of the Lake mis- i India ; of the China sformation well said es so start- )nary cliap- tht picture, thirty mU- THF. A/ISSIO.y/tJ^y orTLOOK. bll lions in one hundred years, wl.ile it i. doubtful if C hr.st.an.ty has won one thouHand souls from itn ranks in all tins period. Heathenism has gained two hundred n.ilHons m the cen- tury while Christianity has won ten millions from its ranks Christian lands have grown in wealth and power, hut have made ecpial progress in wickedness and worWliness ; so that to-day the most fearful examples of immorality and vice in heathen lands, and the most powerful obstacles to the progress of missions are to be found in the lives and influ- ence of our own people in these countries. Notwithstanding the progress of modern missions to day, the destitution of the best evangelized foreign lands is appalling Even India has hundreds of thousand, of villages that have never heard the gospel. The interior provinces of China are only yet manned by little bands of half a dozei. lone workers. . . Two vast provinces in China hav- no missionaries what- ^""^^hil "t, Anam, Nepaul, Bhotan, the PhiUppine Islands, most ', Borneo and New r: linea are in utter darkness. The vast Soudan, with its 90,000,00.) of people, is only fringed with less than a score of missionaries, and thousands of tribes throughout Central Africa have never seen the face of a white man, or heard of Christ. We have just passed through lands which contain a population of '750,0(K),000 of heathen souls, and no language can describe the immensity of the destitution and the con- jtEStJ'e wmmtm 578 l.^^^^^ OUTLOOKS ON MrSSrONARY LANDS. f +hP utter vvreck of this falleu world which sciousness of the utiei xmc^-"^ everywhere oppresses one. A hundr'^d thousand souls a day Are passing, one by one, away la Christless guilt and gloom ; Without one ray of hope or light, In darkness deep as endless njght, They're pabslng to their doom. We should certainly count upon centuries if we were .oinrfoxt-ith the hope of bringing all men to recede the fo'Tjesus as their Saviour and King, and we should be very strongly tempted to begin with the rising generation, and through the cLdren prepare for influencmg future genera- "^ ::redtational missions as the natural audlo^- .. nf a belief in the final conversion o£ aU the "^' rth-^l! the chn,.h and the establishment o£ a ■ B"* "«/" "!* andit we are to do effective work, we rl^lXd— and work in harmony with the plan of our great Leader. GOD'B PLAN FOR I^HK WORLD'S KVANGELIZATION. human race under the f^^^ J ^y ^he tribes of 7DS. irld which THE MISSIONARy OUTLOOK. 579 if we were ( receive the ould be very 3ration, and bure genera- ral and logi- a of all the hment of a ptural stand- ve work, we vith the plan A.TION. of the whole ut rather the 1 the tribes of he nations, of the company of Christ's elect so speedily that the Lord's coming may be immediately hastened, and the promised kingdom brought in which will accomplish for the world in a single generation more than all our work could do in a hundred centuries. If this be the true standpoint of missions, we are not called to build up great educational institutions, and aim slowly to spread in the minds of heath n peoples the princi- ples of Christianity, and lead them gradually up to the Gos- pel. But our business is to strike once for the present gener- ation of men and women in whom God's Holy Spirit has al- ready been preparing by His secret touch for the reception of the Gospel. Thoughtful missionaries tell us that there are such people to be found among all heathen nations ; men and women like Cornelius, who are "devoutly seeking God and feeling after Him, if haply they might find Him," and when the Gospel comes they recognize it as the voice of the unknown God whom they ignorantly worshipped. We know not the number that shall compose "the full- ness of the Gentiles," but we know God has a people among all nations, and that He is gathering out the first fruits in this dispensation : and when the Master comes the full har- vest will be gathered in, and the great Feast of Tabernacles will celebrate the glorious end through the happy millennial world. THE SCRIPTURAL PLAN. That this is the true Scriptural conception of missions, J ,80 ...-- ovr,.oo.s OS- M,ss,on.<.v .as.. '" *:r:f t" « v« the ae,.ne. .. U.e out ot them a peovlo to «*- "^™';; ., j„, ^^e .pedal purpose ot This is just a Ms>t, am j^ ^ temporary taking out o£ «'-' ^tu « "ea -"* the Apostle Paul aispensation. It - '"^J^in Komans, chapters ix to expresses '" J-^-t^l^eL in part has happene.! unto ri, where he says ^^ ^^^^ ,„ Israel unt.1 the tUuess of ^ ^^^^ ^^.^^ ^^^^ ..Jerusalem And so the Loid Je.u. ^^^^^.^ ^^^^ ^.__^^ , „^ shall be trodden down of the Wen Gentiles be tuWlW-' ^^.^^^^^ .^pWly for- Hence «e find the »="5 ^ ^ ..^ the regions be- ward in a P^^' ^f^^^ Z^Tli,^ a rapidity that has -f;si:ercf>r.^'-— -'^^ "1;;: r=r.ir h::itinct,y tou .. . «» Bivme plan in the next chapter. ^^^ tabernacle 1 bI^:- --- -^^^^^^^^ nt: is the ,— ion of ^^;-^^^--z:st^ rr^ato^r.— ;::fr..HLse,f. > THE MISSIOSARY OUTLOOK. 581 Testa- uldress out of i-pose of nporary tie Paul ers ix to led unto erusalem es •\e pidly for- sgions be- that has ;s of their the Divine tabernacle \e breaches lit people — i, and to be f. So the Apostle Paul has also said : "And so all Israel shall be saved ; for it is written, I will send unto Zion a De- liverer, and He shall turn away ungodliness from Jacob." But there is still another stage of development in this great plan. James has also sketched it with a bold, clear hand, where he adds "that the residue of men might seek after the Lord, ijud all the Gentiles upon whom my name is called, saith the Lord, who doeth all these things. Known unto God are all His works from the beginning of the world." (Acts xv, verses U to 1>.) This last section unfolds ihe great hope of the world and its universal salvation. It tells us of the time when the resi- due of men and all the Gentiles shall come to the Lord. That is not to be until the tabernacle of David is rebuilt and the Lord Himself has come. Tf therefore, we would hasten the universal salvation of on. d*.., and the restitution of our globe to its long-lost peace and righteousness, there is but one way to do it,— to call out of the Gentiles, as quickly as possible, the people for whom Christ is waiting, and so hasten His return, and with it the blessings which His advent will bring, and which we never can anticipate without His iiersonal presence. A I'KACTUABLK I'LAX. Now this plan is practicablc\ and inmiediately bo. The conversion of the world is beyond our power, but the evangelization of the world, so as to bring the Gospel in oar grasp. Anrt whUe .n «»'"'' ^^ „, ^ movement been waiting. , -limine at the less ; ^awhile we can.^0 ^"^^ „„,i,,a attack upon a sin- line successfully, we may, "J gle strategic point, carry the -hole nv^ ^^^^ „, The veal strategic po.nt « tt-'^"' „f the Bride «.e Lord, and the gathering ou^o-U lands^^^^ ^ ^^^^^ „£ Jesus, the flndmg out "^^^^^Iv ot His chosen ones to caU, the completmg o *h;nun^b;j His own return, among the nations, »<>*";" .J.t „„ that distinct and AU this throws a ^°^^'°^ '« j Himself mad- unmistakable promise wh;^ Jta L" ^^ the Kingdom must t!he:^arr:uthe"orld,ar a witness among anna. tions, and then shall the end "me^ ^^^ j,^,^ Under this banner, and »». ™' " . „^, „hich repre- 0.ostisto.daym^<.ringthem^s.nar^^^^^^^ ^, ^^_^ ^„t the blessed hope "* '"l^Xe in a wise, concerted and cherish this hope umte » **-» >"^^ ■;^ hope to see the .holly consecrated moven^^^^^^^^^^ l^ ^^^ ^^^^^, consummation o£ the gianaehi hope of all the ages. is with- Beem a veraent I larger B of the las long the less ; enemy's on a sin- oming of ,he Bride 3 waiting )sen ones, •eturn. itinct and self made dom must ng all na- the Holy hich repre- Bt all who Lcerted and ; to see the B sublimest r THJ-: MISSIO.XAh'V orrLOOK. 583 To accompUsh this will involve tremendous efforts, even in a single generation, but we believe it is not impracticab e. India, for examples which represents one-th.rd of the unevangelized people of the globe, could easily be evangelized in ten years. Within two years, our own humble work will have planted missionary stations, we believe, in every centre of the province of Berar, so that there will be a missionary for every one hundred thousand people, or a missionary party for every county in that province, and every human being can be made fairly acjuainted with the Gospel withm a decade or less. , ^ ^, Now if this can be done in Berai, with fifty mission- aries, what could be done in India with five thousand mis- sionaries ? And these five thousand missionaries could more easily be sent by all the churches of Amenca than the fifty that we have sent by the little company of Christians who are standing back of them. . , ^ • There are over twenty powerful Societies laboring m India If each of these would send two hundred and fifty missionaries into the field within the next five years-that is, fifty a year-India would have a force of five thousand move missionaries at the end of five years ; and wisely distributed in the unoccupied fields, these would be sufficient to plant the standard of the cross in every strategic point ot that vast ^""^This is not impracticable, or even difficult, with a church half in earnest. —'■: 584 / Al^CB,^ OUTLOOKS 0-V MtSSlONAR Y LANDS. ""■"Lt us pray that the Holy Ghost will open the eyes and , ^? uiiis of His people to an enten-nse commen- '■ r^ h h! vl ess of the opportanity and the hope. "1 a more difficult field, and we need to go mo^ .arnain«,a.el«^sof^^^^^^^^^^ laige du jiefflected centres. -''iwjrnr :Lt;sru a„d its — -«ua Atiica 1 ^^ before His ra^'^dmsp^id^^ h- oi«-d the way in advance f T ! l!h !nd we ave sure that it a great concerted --"r.:;rti:;irar:::"^^^^ «esteT;":ie. if Uod. people would honestly face rt and rise to its grandeur. THE FAILUKK AT HOMK. The greatest lack in the missionary -^ov«"^«" ^'ifthe . fit foreign but the home end of the work. If the "'' " t Swe have witnessed abroad among the mis- same spnit which ^« *^^ ^^^^.^ ^^,,,,^ i,, the churches reah/.t'd. vor to )cietie8 do the res and •mmen- lope. ;o more fields in lialf as vantage, is still a 'ore His advance ;oncerted •r Africa, V. have sug ly face it to-day is k. If the g the mis- e churches •y speedily T ///-: MISSION A RV Of TI. OOk\ 585 It seems a great deal to say that the churches of America gave five million dollars last year for foreign missions. But how much did they keep \ The hest autliorities tell us that the actual increase in the wealth of American Christians is five hundred million dollars every year. What are five million dollars <,ut of five hundred millions \ Our people could give two Hundred times as nmch as they are giving, and yet not draw a single dollar upon their principal. Instead of seven thousand missionaries, we should then have a million and a lialf . This would give one missionary to every seven hundred of the heathen world ; and this would he just the proportion in which this land is supphed with ministers. Our Christian churclies have one Protestant minister to every six or seven hundred of our people. We send one mis- sionary to every five hundred thousand heathen. That is to say we do nearly seven hundred times as much for the evangelization of America as we do for the evangelisation of the heathen world. We laugh at the egotism of China, when it makes its map of the world with China in the centre, and other nations lying in httle strips along the edge. But in the sight of heaven, our map is more grotesque, for the needs of America occupy nearly all the centre, and the fringes are given to the myriads of unevangehzed lands, which represent twenty times the population of our own country. THE REMEDY. How is this state cf things to be remedied > , t+inir the tnie missionary ,..t of an. .. ;;^>j- '^.r ""nt: ,: a„a th. Chris- idea into the hearts of the L, mi ""S:'a.y. By getting CU*.»t™e,.. an ... eva„ge«.- tion upon the hearts of Hispeope^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ p^^_ The intelligent, understanding ot „,i^„„ary posewillhe of immense value m dnect u ^^^^_,^ work of all the churches =us and ^^„^,,, ,„,, ,( our speakable blessing to «-f "",""; their work as to give to Missionary Societies could so ad3U.t^t_^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^ „j our people this opportunity, a ^_^.,^,^ ^,,,„^ the Support of the "-'--;'', *:tians of this land who there would be thousa^sot^^^^^^^^^^ would gladly accept this iesp< onary ChriB- ir than great ight of igelissa- ad pur- isionary should of the ition as ;)rk upon into all ne inoiu' C'hristiau DC an un- and if our to give to al cost of sible sum, land who 7 ///; M/ss/o\.iA' y or'T/.oor. 587 In our own work we have found this to he a great inspira- tion, and wo believe the two hundicd already employed can be increaaed indefinitely as the work grows. Fourth. We must cease to be surprised at the large gifts which the rich are bestowing, and we nuist expect that they shall do nmch more. We must not be surprised when men give millions, in- stead of thousands, but the standard of our expectation must be so raised that men's conception of duty will be enhanced to something like the Master's ideal of His people and His work. If David, at a single offering, gave nearly one-hundred mil- lion dollars for the erection of the temple, because he loved the Lord and His house ; how much more becoming that we, with far greater wealth and vaster opportunities, should give as grandly for the erection of the more enduring temple of the coming Kingdom. There are individuals who, out of their own means, could evangelize whole nations, so far as the cost is con- cerned ; and we ought to claim for these last days of the Christian dispensation a consecration as magnificent as the opportunities which God has given to us. Fifth. We must expect a higher class of missionaries. The day is past for supposing that anybody will make a mis- sionary, and we must keep our best talent at home. God wants the strongest men for the foreign field. There are no such opportunities for glorious service to be found at home. We want to expect large numbers of our most gifted and conseciated men and women to choose these i. M '^^SS^?*^*' ^ (• f.iith and love, to claim L„„.e ,1,.. WO.W .^ living ■■-■'''• ;f^.^,MUe,s of ChriBt „t home to xacriftce a. much a» tte m ^^^^^^^ We wan, the day to '<>'"<'.;'';"' J ,„„k „t » i„ the .„d .na„,ge„ce ««. ^'^^^^l^^ ,.„. the Hood of '•^" 1 'r:::;r Xm :!.:«■ -eve,- sought to »ave. — ir ;-e -' ^ r ' ihra:"!.. do fo. „. he. and gve^te. H.«. » -^Ltio... . the min- telli«e,>t faith and divine de«.re j„,. j„^ ^„„. T„is,i. the *'«7 •,:';;';;; ,j,„a I will give thee t'h:X,f fo'th;rin.,e,.ita„ce. and the uttermost ,.a* of ''- ';?•* ::",rtii:x:::he i... ,. «» ha..ve.t, ^.t «« .end forth lal,o.ers into His havv^t- ^^^^^ ^^ _^^^^^^^ The,-e is nothing "'•« »^;':,f ,^^tn in the opening of missions than answeml,>.a>e. ■^^ „. ,„ea„s and hearts of the heathen. n THE MISSIONARY OfTI.OOK. 589 I liiim J who id set il, and Christ rhurch d. luxury t in the )lood of n do for he min- itof ia- Ji accom- rive thee b i)arts of , i,l\at He ,f modern opening of neans and t upon the May wo 1k' penniltod to mention a fow. in order tc .11- courage and inspire our friends to larger outlooks at tJio throne? Some years ago, a few women met in a New England city to pray that Clod would send large gifts of means. In that town there lived a very wealthy man who was not partic- ularly friendly to foreign missions. A few months later he died, leaving one of the largest hequests to one of our nus- sionary Boards which had ever been made by a single indi- vidual. It was afterwards found that he had made his will just at the very time when these sisters were i>raying in that town. He never knew whence came the touch that mov«.'d his heart to give that numificent bequest for the worlds evangelization. But in the day when all things shall be revealed, those simple women shall be credited as much as he, with that enormous gift. A few months ago, the writer was speaking ,.1 a West- ern meeting on missions, and telling how much seven mil- lion dollars would do U>v the immediate evangelization of the world. He noticed a very remarkable face in his audience. It was a dear sister in a Quaker bonnet. She grasped him warmly by the hand at the close, and quietly said : " I think Vvc got it." '' Got what ? " he said. "Oh, that seven miUion dollars" "Oh," h< tsked, "you mean by faith?" "Yes," she said, "what better way is there to get it ? But I will write you when 1 am sure." A few weeks later he received a letter from her, written with as much importance as if she had sent him a check 590 LARC.F.K OVTI.OOKS OS MISSIOSARY LANDS, for th« seven million dollars, and she Huitl : " Now I am sure, and you may ivly upon the Lord to w.t.d yo.i that inoney for the evangelization of tho world." Wo are not ashamed to Hay that wo felt quite as much encouraged as though we had receivtnl a large chock from a millionaire. In the Btory of Finney's lif( there are very many extra- ordinary examples of the power of believing prayer. His greatest helper was an old saint who had been miraculously baptized of tho Holy Ghost, and who, when he prayed, be- lieved. In his i;ist days he kept a diary of his prayers, and a re<;ord of tin {.laces f'n- which he had prayed, and after his death his diary was published, and compared with tho records of the religious press, and it was found that special times of blessing had followed the very order of his prayers, and the Holy Ghost had been poured out in an extraordinary manner in the places for which he had prayed. That man, from his little closet, had been able to sweep the world with the power of God's almighty hand. While in India, tho wi iter met a very beautiful girl, the wife of a native preacher, and learned that she was one of a class of five who many years before were heathen girls filled with all the degradation and misery of a heathen training. So discouraged had their teacher become that she was almost on the point of abandoning her work. She wrote to a Christian friend in Ohio and asked him to pray for them. One Saturday night, he came home from his work and went into his closet and spent the evening in prayer for those 4 I', VDS. THE A//SS/(^X. Iff y OCTLOOK. 59r Now I am I you that ito fus much uH;k from a laiiy oxtra- rayer. His liraculously prayed, be- )rayei-s, and ,n(l after his I with the that Bpecial his i)rayer8, ctraordinary That man, ) world with iful girl, the was one of a an girls filled a training, hat she was She wrote to T for them, his work and lyer for those girls. At the doHo he felt that lie had Injen answered, and ho rose frr)m his knees and wrAte to his friend that God would save those girls. That Saturday inKht was Hubbath morning in India, and at the very hour when he was piaying for them, those girls we«) gathering with their teacher in the class. She was sur- l)rised that their whole manner was changed, and at the close of the class they came to her :ind asked her to forgive them, and prorjiised to live a Christuj' life. They kept their word, and all of them have become Ci- i^itian women. Could we have seen what heaven witnessed that day, we would have beheld a flash pass upward from that little closet until it reached the heart of Christ ; and then, after linger- ing a moment, borne onward by the Hi ly Ghost, continue its circuit until it fell, with the morning sunlight, in the centre of India, where it breathed the living love and peace of heaven uj)on those heathen souls. Oh, beloved, thus may we all be missionaries. Not less mighty is the jwwer of prayer to remove diffi- culties. 8om(> iime ago, in Qnangsi, the Southern Baptists had established their first station in that difficult province. After awhile, the drought began to disturb the minds of the people, and their priests told them it was because the dragon was offended on account of the foreigners, and they must drive them out. They gave them four days to leave, and told them that if within that time the rain did not come, they would have to go. They gathered together for prayer, and waited unceas- j A!-**-"" A/** m 592 LARGER OCTLOOk'S OX JflSSrONARY LANDS. ingly upon the Lord. Before the end of the stipulated time, the clouds gathered, the rains fell, the mission was saved, and the heathen were compelled to acknowledge the hand of the living God. These are some of the things that prayer can accom- plish. Prayer can send laborers into the harvest, and the right kind of laborers. There is nothing more important or diffi- cult than the securing of the right kind of missionaries. Many of the most promising candidates are liable to fail when they reach the field. The Holy Spirit alone can select the workers who can endure the pressures of climate and circumstances, and who possess the qualities of mind, body and heart which will perfectly fit them for this difficult work. One heaven-sent missionary is worth a dozen of mere human selection. God can take men from every class of society in answer to prayer. A few years ago, in a most wonderful manner, while friends in London were praying for God to raise up missionaries from among the educated young m-n of Eng- land, a spontaneous movement at that very time sprang up among the Cambridge students, and while the Board meet- ing in London was praying, a telegram came to one of the secretaries, asking the committee to meet and pray for young men who were waiting upon the Lord about their call to the foreign field. Prayer can raise up workers from among the natives who will become like Sheshadri in India, Neeissima in Japan, }' LANDS. stipulated time, ;sion was saved, 3dge the hand of ayei' can accom- 5t, and the right iportant or diffi- of missionaries, ire hable to fail ; alone can select s of climate and es of mind, body for this difficult orth a dozen of society in answer »nderful manner, God to raise up mg m'-n of Eng- f time sprang up the Board meet- me to one of tlie id pray for young t their call to the Bong the native* seissima in Japan^ THE MISSIONARY OlTI.OOfC, 593 and Rabinowitch in Russia, instruments in the hand of God to call their own people unto Christ. Oh, may the Holy Ghost call some of us as definitely to this ministry as He has called others to the field ! This is a special priesthood to which God will ordain willing and consecrated hearts who stand continually in the holy F- 'ce, and hold the incense in believing prayer. Of such men He says : " I have chosen you and ordained you that you should go and bring forth much fruit, and that your fruit should remain, and that whatsoever ye shall ask the Father in My Name, He may give it you." The ordination is unto prayer as nmch as for fruit-bear- ing. Oh, for men who have been set apart for the special purpose of getting answers to their prayers ! We read in the Book of Revelation that when the in- cense of prayer had been presented before the throne by the ministering angel, " there was silence in heaven by the space of half an hour." Everything above was hushed, that the whisper of prayer might be heard. Then we read, "the censer was filled with coals of fire that were poured out upon the earth, and there were voices and thunderings, and a great earthquake." And so, when we are true to this mighty priesthood, and send up through the ministering hands of our ascended Lord, our believing intercession, the waiting heavens will listen, the mighty forces of Providence will begin to move, and the trembling earth will reverberate with the echoes of His mighty working and the tread of myriad feet, as the 594 LARGER or r LOOKS ON MISSIONARY LANDS. procession of the advent heralds moves forward to meet the Master's coming. Above all other blessings, prayer \v'ill uphold the lone workers on the field, and give us a hallowed partnership in their toils, trials and recompenses. They have gone there to represent us, as well as Him. Let us not for a moment rail to uphold them, and to be the channels of life and blessing to their hearts as they go down amid the awful depths of heathen darkness. HOLD THE ROPES. Down amid the depths cf heathen darkness There are heroes true and brave, Shrinking not from pain, and toil and danger, They liave gone to help and save. But we hear them calling, ' ' Do not leave us Mid these dreadful depths to drown ; Let us ever feel your arms beneath us, Hold the ropes, as we go down." So beneath the billows of the ocean Divers plunga for treasures rare, But through hands that hold tLe ropes above them Still they breathe the upper all Seeking precious pearls of richer value. Braver hearts have dared to go ; But our faithful hands must every moment Hold the ropes that reach below. Who can understand the awful darkness Of these realms of Sin and Death ? Even the very air is scorched and poisoned With the Dragon's fetid breath. But across the widest ocean billows Love can reach to heathen lands, And beneath the deepest, darkest surges Prayer can hold a brother's hands. m 4RY LANDS. Di'ward to meet the 11 uphold the lone i^ed partnership in IS, as well as Him. hem, and to be the ts as they go down IS. brknesB id danger, eave us THE MISSIONARY OLTLOOK. Think yon was it only for our brotlier JeHUS epaite His last conimands ? Is tliere nothing left for you to suffer In these dark and heatlien lands ? If you cannot go yourself to gave them, There are those that you can send. And with loving arms strtrtched out to help them Hold the roiJes, as they descend. Let us hold the ropes with hands more loyal, Let us pray with ftith more strong ; I^et the love that never fails nor fa'ters Faint not, though the strife be long. Let us lay our treasures on the altar. Let us give our children too ; There's a part for ea''.h io this great l>attle. And the Lord has need of you. 595 es above them le, oment aesB Boned rges I ;i ' i^B Fe'2. II y 'tL. ■ ■- ' -< '' -- ' - ' - ' l ^^.-..J^UiWW^^tw^«W^^^M^i»,iwJ^J»,WWl^^-^i^a^^^ ^