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Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmto A des taux de reduction dlff^rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cllch6, il est filmd d partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'Images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 2 3 5 6 S«Wi-»iW*«=''**»*«»*f'*«*»*«*S«8W*ie^^ •'-SfP* I >J > 6f i Pemaquid and Monhegan. ADDRESS 01-- HON. CHARLES LEVI WOODBURY OF UOSTON BEFORE THE HYDE PARK HISTORICAL SOCIETY, February 26, 1891. lADiEs AND Gentlemen of this Historical Society: I remember when I first saw Pemaquid. I was cruising eastward in the yacht of the Hon. Benjamin Dean of Boston, and, owing to the fog, we ran in by Pemaquid Point until we reached the outer harbor Here we caught mackerel and waited for the fog to lift. On the shore an abandoned porgy factory, perfumed as unlike a bank of violets as possible, occupied one chop of the harbor; on the other stood a large, square house, more pretentious than a farm-house, and in front could be traced some slight ridges and a few bunches of bushes. , , 1 We sailed the next morning, bound east, and on our starboard hand as we neared the point, a lofty island some four leagues away attracted our attention, - it was Monhegan. When we returned from our explorations of the islands of the Penobscot and Mount Desert, we sighted the island, the morning sun play- ing on its top, bathed it in light ; amid a peaceful ocean it rose like an island of the blessed ; anon the lighthouse and then as with flowing sail we neared it, houses and then windows could be made out The wind was fair, but on my suggestion that this was the hallowed ground, the germ of New England, we hauled up a little closer to the wind and dashed up to the head of the harbor, tacked and stood off on our course, westward, ho! We had seen the cradle of New England. My theme to-night is specially the history of the Forts of Pemaquid. I Pemaquid and Moiihegan. DISCOVERY. Before entering on this recital of the conflict of races and of nations, of civilization antl savage life, to control the destinies of this continent, I should refer briefly to the discovery of this coast. After Columbus had astonished Europe, and rivalled the Port- ugese explorations of the East, the Pope divided the new-found territories, giving the west to the Spaniards and the east to the Portugese. France and England, being left unsatisfied and dis- satisfied, wont for their shares in several ways. They captured the Spanish treasure ships and confiscated their cargo, — that is, private gentlemen did it in an unofficial way. When they got captured, the Spaniards hung them promptly at the yard-arm, and when the Spaniards were taken after a resistance, an old Nor- wegian or Viking method of sending captives "home by sea" was resorted to, and they were made to walk the plank ! In the north, the fisheries of Newfoundland and Cape Breton were pursued by French, Portugese and Spaniards, to whom were added, in the last third of the sixteenth century, the English, — all well armed, holding their fares of fish not merely by the hook but by the sword, as the national law of the fisheries. The coast between Nova Scotia and the ubiquitous Florida was little frequented, and very dangerous, except to heavily armed vessels. The sight of a sail was signal for a fight or a flight. The few armed traders or piratical explorers who touched its shores brought to Europe the rumor that somewhere on what we now know as the coast of Maine there was a great, rich native city called Norumbega, a myth like the Island of the Seven Cities that Cabot pursued. South of 40° north latitude the French had been beaten off from forming a settlement, and Sir Walter Raleigh had been defeated by vicissitudes and perils in a like purpose. We need not consider Cortoreal, Gomez and Verezano, nor Cartier, Roberval or Gilbert and the like adventurers. Practically, our knowledge of the coast of New England begins with 1600, and we may leave the sixteenth century out of consid- eration, and begin here. In 1600, Sir Walter Raleigh and his relative, Sir Humphrey Gilbert, had stirred up the English, and the French had equally awoke to the determination to have some part of the North American coast south of 45", whether the Spaniards liked it or not. Patents were readily granted by ■ mr* S«pt II 1830 A\ ces and of estinies of this coast, the Port- new-found east to the and dis- y captured — that is, they got -d-arm, and n old Nor- y sea" was ape Breton whom were English, — )y the hook )us Florida to heavily fight or a rho touched ?re on what rich native even Cities beaten off 1 had been pose. We lor Cartier, land begins ; of consid- gh and his nglish, and have some lether the ;ranted by 4ii m Pemaquid and Monhegan. . 3 princes for territory "in remote heathen and barbarous lands," but it was as difficult for the patentee to take possession as it would have been for the Royal Grantor to show any color of title in himself. At this date the trade of fishing at Newfoundland and Cape Breton and adjacent shores had been thoroughly exploited during the preceding century by French and English (Parkhurst, in 1578, estimates 530 sail fishing on these coasts); and it was almost side by side that these two nations now explored the riches of the New England coast, and grasped for its exclusive control. • In 1602, Gosnold made a voyage 6n this coast and touched the coa3t of Maine at York Nubble. His \liistoriographer writes that as they neared the shore a Biscayan shallop under sail dashed out from the other side of the great rock and ran down to them, having on board some half dozen Indians with about two suits of European clothes divided between them. They held a very pleasant interview, the Indians making them quite a chart of the coast with chalk on a board, and Gosnold, finding himself at Lat. 43°, further north than his object, the Vineyard Sound and Island, bore away southward, leaving two isles (Boon and Isle of Shoals) on his port hand. This fixes the location ; it also fixes the fact that French or Basque traders had been there before him, and that the natives had learned to handle the sloop. In 1603 Martyn Pryng was on the coast, and in 1604 Weymouth was at Monhegan, and at Damarel's Cove Islands. In the same year, De Monts and Champlain were also at these points. The issue was shaping between the French and the English. The French king, in 1603, had granted a charter to De Monts for all the region from latitude 40° to 48° or 49°, which we now call New York and New England. The English king (James I.), in 1606, had granted the Virginia charter, divided into two sections, one, North Virginia, having nearly the same boundaries as the New France granted by the French. The Indians were in actual possession ; the Spaniards claimed the coast. Here were two new titles. Who would get the actual possession of the land they all wanted } De Monts and that skilful navigator, Champlain, came over in 1604, skirted the Coast of Nova Scotia, round into Port Royal, crossed to the other side of the Bay of Fundy and settled at the mouth of the St. Croix River. In 1605 they explored the coast as -■^vmtm Pemaquid ami Monhegan. far south as the Nantucket Shoals; sighting the island Mon- hegan, " La Nef," they called it, and entering Boothbay Harbor, explored the Sheepscot and the Kennebec. Here on their return they learned of Weymouth's gross outrage. In the following year, after moving their residence to Port Royal, they again e.vplored these coasts. Shall it become New England or New France.? It required an hundred and fifty years to settle this question. The English Company, of whom Chief Justice Popham was the head, and whose members were Wi^t of England people, sent out two vessels under Raleigh Gilbert and George Popham, with settlers who made their first landfall at the island of Monhegan, where they celebrated religious services according to the Church of England, and then came over to the mouth of the Kennebec, and settled on an islana which is now Fort Popham. From Mon- hegan they paid their first visit to Pemaquid. The Indians of the country were of the Abnaki tribes, whose tributaries extended westward, and south through Maine, New Hampshire and part of Massachusetts. Their chief head was the Bashaba, who lived at Pemaquid, a few miles up the river. Here let me interject ! Weymouth had kidnapped and carried off some Indians to England, where Sir Fernando Gorges got two of them, and, when they knew enough English, drew from them a knowledge of the country, the tribes and their power, etc., which was of great benefit in the future. One of these, Skitwares, found his way back to the Bashaba ; another had come with the expedition as interpreter, and their intercourse was easy, and became very friendly ; another, Saggamore Nahandu, had also been in England. It was clear the beaver trade was good and profitable. The Indians east of the Penobscot were called Tarrantines, were enemies of the Bashaba, and held rather to the French. In the autumn of 1608, the settlement at the Kennebec broke up and the most of the settlers returned to England, but that did not close business operations. Sir Francis Popham, Gorges and others continued in the trade, and running the -remarkably fine fishing, which the waters from Cape Newwagen to Pemaquid and to Monhegan afforded. Hither also the South Virginia Company soon sent vessels every year to fish for their own supply. In 1609, Zuringu notes one ship and a tender sailing for North 9 island Mon- ^»bay Harbor, 1 their return lie following , they again t required an ham was the pie, sent out jpham, with Monhegan, the Church i Kennebec, From Mon- ribes, whose Maine, New lead was the /er. lapped and mdo Gorges I, drew from power, etc., , Skitwares, me with the i easy, and u, had also s good and vere called ither to the ebec broke )ut that (did Gorges and rkably fine tnaquid and I Company supply. In for North Pemaqiiiii and Monhegan. 5 • Virginia, probably Sir Francis Popham's. The coast and trade were thoroughly explored on each side. Champlain's journals and maps were published in France in i6n, Lescarbot's history in 1609, and Martyn Pryng's admirable researches of 1606, and maps, were fully known to the North Virginia Company adventurers. In 1610, Captain Argal, from Virginia, fished on the coast, in latitude 43" 40'. Another ship, his companion, was also on this coast. In 161 1, two captains, Harlie and Hobson, .sailed for this coast from England. In this year the French visited the abandoned settlement of Popham at Fort St. George twice, under M. do Biancourt from Port Royal. Father Biard states they found some English sloops fishing, but did not attack them. The first collision took place this year, when a French vessel under Captain Platrier was captured by two English vessels, near Emmetonic, an island about eight leagues from the Kennebec. These vessels were probably those of Mr. Williams, Popham's agent, and may have been those of Captains Hobson and Harlie. 161 2. Williams is stated to have been on the coast this year also. 161 3. The French had made a settlement at Mount Desert. Captain Argal, who was fishing from Virginia about Monhegan, heard of it and ran down, captured their vessels and many of the settlers, including Father Biard, broke up the plantation and took his prizes to Virginia.' 1614. Argal also attacked the French settlement at Port Royal. There was a resolute spirit astir under each flag. Perhaps its sole inducement was glory, but the value of the fishery and of the fur trade was practically held out to those who came the best armed and the best manned to partake in its profits. Neither side was dis\)osed to invite the public into their confidence ; it was too gooc • 'hing to be thrown open. - In 1614, John Smith came jut with two vessels for trade, fish and whaling ; also Captain Hobson was here with an interpreter ; and in the fall Sir Richard Hawkins and two vessels came out to try the winter fishing and trade. They all came to Monhegan, and Captain Smith says that at Pemaquid, opposite him, was a ship of Sir Francis Popham that had traded there for several years. Smith states that he learned two French ships were trading about the Merrimack and that he did not go in sight of them, — judicious navigator! 1; l! 6 I'emaqHiJ aiui Monhegan. Smith had the weakness of literature. He wrote well, and when he returned he wrote and imblished. Thus, what with him and Champlain, the tnide secrets and profits of this coast were opened to the public, and a rew era soon set in. There was another effective cause also, which was the most important stimulus to the makin{j of permanent scttlemfnts. TIIK WINTKR FISIIKRV. The course of the Enj;lish fishermen had been to leave home in January and reach Monhegan, or Damrel's Cove, in March, set up their stages and bej^in fishing. Hy June their fish were caught and by August or September dried, so that they could sail for Spain and obtain an early market. They brought out double crews, forty to si.xty m^*n, thus sp^jeding their fishing. It transpired that the winter fishing was the best in quantity and quality. As the adventurers were business people with an eye to profit, good grounds were opened to them for permanent establishments about these charmed fishing-grounds, from Cape Newwagcn and Damrel's Cove Islands to Pemaquid, and off shore to Monhegan, — where all the English fishing then was carried on. Sir Richard Hawkins was president of the North Virginia Council and with his two ships wintered here, but in which harbor is now unknown, caught cargo for both ships, and sailed the following spring, — one ship for Spain, the other for Virginia. It was a success. It is difficult to say how many vessels were yearly here before this, but Smith states he had six or seven maps given him before he sailed, which shows they were more numerous than have been recorded. The vessels anchored in harbors, built stages, fish- houses and flakes on shore, and sent out their crews in small boats daily to fish. Their fares were then brought to the stages, cleaned, salted and dried there, and shipped when ready for market. With the winter fishery the stages and small boats could be occupied all the year round, and the half crew left there be earning instead of lying idle. Pemaquid was the best place for the fur trade, because of its proximity to the Bashaba; also it could in a great degree command the fur trade of the Kennebec. There is every reason to suppose that Sir Francis Popham's people built some block- Pemaqtiili ami Mi)nf}f^an. to well, and Kit with liiin coast were IS the most ttlements. leave home I March, set A^ere caught uhl sail for out double Fishin;?. It lantity and vith an eye permanent from Cape d off shore ivas carried th Virginia hich harbor sailed the r Virginia. here before him before 1 have been tages, fish- vs in small the stages, ready for mall boats V left there :ause of its 3at degree ^ery reason ime block- house or trade station there, as hr hail traded there for several years, but no statement of the fact has come down to us. In 1615, Smith states that four or five ships from London, — one sent by Sir I'rancis Gorges from I'lymouth, and two under his command — sailed for Monhegan. Smith was captured in one of them by the French. How many came fishing from Virginia we do not learn. Smith wrote his hook this year, and it was published in 1616. Ho was reproached bitterly for disclosing the secrets of the country. This publication gave impetus to the voluntary Jis/icniieu, not connected with the great companies, to come here and try their fortunes. In this year the Dutch sloop Restless, built at New York in 161 1 by Adrian Block, came as far as the Penobscot on a trading voyage. Her captain, Hendrickson, made a map of the coast. The first vessel built in the country was tht; Virginia, built 1607-08, at the Kennebec settlement ; the Restless was the ne.xt. Of course pinnaces had bacn taken out by fishermen and set up after arriving here, but these two were actually built here. sr.TTLEMKNT. The contingencies of trade and the fishery were now devel- oping the original purpose of the North Virginia Company. Sir Francis I'opham's trading headquarters had been all this time at Pemaquid, as both Smith and Gorges state. Sir Fernando Gorges now took up the matter of wintering there. Let me cite his own language, "I bought a ship for fishing and trade. I sent Vines and others, my own servants, with their provision, for trade and discovery, appointing them to leave the ship and ship's company for to follow their business in the usual place. By these, and by the help of the natives formerly sent over, I came to be truly informed of so much as gave me the assurance that in time I should want no undertakers, though, as yet, I was forced to hire men to stay there the winter quarter at extreme rates, and not without danger; for that the war had consumed the Bashaba," (and the plague, etc.), "notwithstanding Vines and the rest with him that lay in the cabins with the people that died, some more or less mightily, not one of them ever felt their heads to ache, and this course I held some years together." This appears to make it clear that Pemaquid was occupied for trade purposes from the departure of the Popham Gilbert T I— i ! fi !::] 8 PftnaqiiiJ ditJ Motihei>iitt. Colony from the Kcnncbfc in 1608, and at an cirly date per- manently, with a view of estahlishinj; ICn^lish settlements on the main land of the j;rant. Some wi iters say that it was at Saco that Vines with his men lay, during; the winter «)f i6r7-i8. This plague raged about three years, killing nine-tenths of the Indians living between the Penobscot and Cape Cod. In 1619, Captain Rowcroft left three men at Saco, who made their way eastward and crossed to Moiiliegan, where they were found in the spring. They must have had a boat, and probably the reason why they crosseil from Pemaquid or Cape Newwagen was to join winter fishermen remainini; there. In 1616, Smith states four ships of London and two of Plymouth and Sir Richard Hawkins were again in these waters. Me does not give the vessels from South Virginia. Vines also came in command of a ship. In 1617, eight tall ships came there from Kngland. In 161 8. six or seven volunteer ships came from the west of England, and those of the two companies. Captain Rowcroft also seized a French barque. Smith also states that in 1614, 1616 and 1617 he was prepared with ten or fifteen men to stay in the country, but his purposes were defeated. In 1619, he says one went from the West, those of London not stated. In 1620, six or seven sail went from the west country, those of London not stated. The prospect of establishing settlements was so flattering that early in this year the company applied, for a new charter, obtained a warrant therefor, and the charter passed the Great Seal, November, 1620, creating them the Great Council of Plymouth, with boundaries from north latitude 40° to 48°, and powers of government, title to the lands, and also giving them a monopoly of the trade and the fishery. Before I pass to this charter I will continue the preceding subject. In 1619, Gorges sent out Captain Dermer, who was to have met Captain Rowcroft, but found he was gone. Dermer took his pinnace and, with an interpreter, coasted as far as Virginia. In 1620, he visited the harbor where the Pilgrims arrived in the following December. Captain Pryng had called it, in 1603, Mount Aldworth, Champlain, in 1605, had named it Bay St. Louis, but the Pilgrim settlers called it New Plymouth. Dermer went from here with his interpreter and squaw to a distance into v4'4 Pemaquhi and Honhegan, rly (late pcr- tflcmcnts on t was at Saco of 1617-18. cnths of the :o(l. ^ o, who made re they were ;m{i probably e Newwagen of I'lymouth rs. He does dso came in the west of iowcroft also 514, 1616 and stay in the he says one ^try, those of so flatterinj; new charter, :d the Great Council of ' to 48°, and giving them pass to this was to have mer took his ginia. IS arrived in it, in 1603, it Bay St. th. Dermer listance into ., the interior, and rescued from the savages two Frenchmen who had been shipwrecked in a I'Veiich barcpie some lime before. "Mourt's Relation" states that the I'ilgrims, when on Cape Cod, found «me or two plank houses. I'ossibly these were »)f the South Virginia attempts to establish their cod fishery. This new monopoly, the Great Council of I'lymouth, caused a great row. The South Virginia Company fought it in par- liament, claimed they, too, spent ;^5000 in establishing their fishery on the east coast, and were now cut off by this grant. The voluntary fishermen fought it, both in parliament and on the coast, as a monopoly. Gorges defended the charter bravf.-ly. The House of Commons was against him, but the king and the House of Lords were for him, and the charter stood. The Pilgrims had a charter from Virginia, but their settlement was in the New England jurisdiction. Gorges obtained a charter for them here and helped them. But this branch of history is not within the scope of this discourse. •The French ambassador also object''^! to the King against this charter, as an infringement on the territory of the French. The question whether it should be New Kngland or New France was pressed with renewed vigor. Pemaquid became now the forefront of our array. A force of i5ooto30CX) armed fishermen, hanging on its flanks half the year, was more than ever impenetrable and imposing. The great profits of the fis'uing for all the round season drew settlements at convenient points. The Isles of Shoals, the Piscataqua, Saco, Casco, Monht'gan and the Damrel's Cove Islands, even also Cape Ann, felt the balmy influence of profit and protection, and rallied settlers behind the overshadowing eyes of Pemaqu'd and Mon- hegan, Plymouth was not a good fishing place, nor was the Massachusetts, but on the eastern coast the fishermen rallied. The younger Gorges came out governor for New England in 1623, and visited Pemaquid, but the council at home gave up the fishing monopoly and the voluntary fishermen thrived. I must not cumber you with details. The ships came to Monhegan or the Isles of Shoals and sent up to the bay in their pinnaces the passengers and freight due there. Those who wished to go to England generally sailed "down East" and took shipping there. For trade goods and fishing prior to 1630 Pemaquid was without an equal on the coast. The petition of the inhabitants there in i ^.«»n.<«»iaa»llKfe<«a1'iji^l jj.s!'! ' i™||upg|g4|'*P*--l» ^SIS -,;^,_yy„_^.j^,r. ,i,«llfg<« , I , , i,,,,,;;.'rrr-.-r^l5'?.'~'''T*?ST' isisa