J y^ ^L^ .t>4t ocnUiL' I*ni3it COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA FIFTY YEAES AGO : PERSONAL RECOLLECTIONS AND REMINISCENCES OF A SEXAGENARIAN. BY CA:NmFr iiaight. it " " Ah, happy years ! Once more who would not be a boy :" Childe Harold's Pil/frimage, Toronto : PUBLISHED BY HUNTER, ROSE & CO. 1886. ^^i&^r;c Enteied accc.rding to the Act cf the Pailian.ent of Canada, in the year one thousand eight hundred and eighty-five, by Canniff HAlcuiT, in the office of the Minister of Agricultuie. TO THE YOUNG MEN OF CANADA, VPON WHOSK INTKOKITY ANf ENRROY OK OIFAIU. T!U T.I« FUTUHR .,K T.rrs .UtKAT MRH.TAOE OK OURS .-ESr., THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY DEI)ICA.TED l!V THK AUTHOR. > PREFACE. ^TTHEN a man poses betoie the world— even the ' ^ Canadian world— in the role of an author, he is expected to step up to the footlights, and explain his purpose in presenting himself before the public in that capacity. The thoughts of the world are sown broadcast, very niueh as the seed falls from the sweep of the husband- man's hand. It drops here and there, in good ground and in stony places. Its future depends upon its vi- tality. Many a fair seed has fallen on rich soil, and yet never reached maturity. Many another has shot up luxuriantly, but in a short time has been choked by brambles. Other seeds have been cast out with the chaft' upon the dung heap, and after various mu- taticms, have come in contact with a clod of earth, through which they have sent their roots, and have finally grown into thrifty plants. A thought thrown out on the world, if it possesses vital force, never dies. How much is remembered of the work of our greatest men ? Only a sentence here and there ; and many a VI PUKKACK. iiiaii wlio.se iiiunc will go down tlirougli all the siges, owes it to tliu truth or the vital force of tin; thou'fht embedded in a few hrief lines. I have very little to say respecting the volume here- with presented to the public. The principal contents appeared a short time ago in the (Jmuidimi Monthly and the dinadiaii Methodist Miujdzlne. They were written at a time when my way seemed Ijcdged around with insurmountable dirticulties, and when almost any- thing that could atlord me a temporary respite from the mental anxieties that weighed me down, not only dur- ing the day, l»ut into the long hours of the night, would have been welcomed. Like most unfortunates, I met Mr. Worldly Wiseman from day to day. I always found him ready to point out the way 1 should go and what 1 should do, but I have no recollection that he ever got the breadth of a hair beyond that. One even- ing I took up my pen and began jotting down a few memories of my boyhood. I think we are all fond of taking retrospective glances, and more particularly when life's pathway trends towards the end. The re- lief I found while thus engaged was very soothing, and for the time I got altogether away from the present, and lived over again many a joyous hour. After a PRKFACK. vn time 1 lijul accuiiiulatcd a ^^ood deal of matter, .sucli as it was, but the tliou^dit of puMicatioii liad not then entered my mind. One day, while in conversation with Dr. Withrow, 1 mentiotied wliat I l»ad done, and lie exjiressed a desin' to .see what I liad written. Tlie I)apers were sent him, and lu a sliort time he returned tliem witli a note expressin<^ tlie pleasure the perusal of them had aftbrded him, and advi.sing me to submit them to the Canadian Monthbj for publication. Some- time afterwards T followed his advice. The portion of the papei's that a])peared in the last-named i)eriodical were favourably received, and I was mueh <^'ratiHed not only by that, but from private letters afterwards received from ditlerent parts of the Dominion, convey- ing expressions of connuendation which J had certain- ly never anticipated. This is as much as need be said about the origin and first publication of the papens which make up the })rincjpal pai c of tJiis voluuie. I A(iB Th»^ early settlers in UpiJcr Canada- ProHperity, national and indi- vidual The old homeH, without and within — Candle-making — Superstitions and omens— The death-watch- Old almanacs— Eees — Ihe divining rod— The U. E. Loyalists- 1 heir ^nfTerin{;H and heroism- An old and a ntw price list— Primitive horologes- A jaunt in one of the conventional " carriajjes " of olden times Then and now- A note of warning 85 CHAPTER V. Jefferson's definition of "Liberty "—How it was acted upon- The Canadian renaissance— 15urning political uncstions in Canada half a century ago -Locomotion- Mrs. Janu'son on Canadian stage coaches — Battejiux and I )urham boats 121 c;haptkr vl Roa z o 5 H I m (/) i .■■'4, ■'■■ ■- •', «« .,.,-■■ ■-•!>■■ 'ij ■• FIFTY YEARS AGO. 11 and pies were baked. Within the fire-place was an iron crane securely fastened in the jamb, and made to swing in and out with its row of iron pot-hooks of different lengths, on which to hang the pots used in cooking. Cook stoves had not yet appeared to cheer the housewife and revolutionize the kitchen. Joints of meat and poultry were roasted on turning spits, or were suspended before the fire by a cord and wire attached to the ceiling. Cooking wiis attended with more difficulties then. Meat was fried in loner- handled pans, and the short-cake that so often graced the supper table, and played such havoc with the butter and honey, with the pancakes that came pip- ing hot on the breakfast table, owed their finishing touch to the frying pan. The latter, however, were more frequently baked on a large griddle with a bow handle made to hook on the crane. This, on account of its larger surface, enabled the cook to turn out these much-prized cakes, when properly made, with greater speed ; and in a large family an expert hand was re- quired to keep up the supply. Some years later an ingenious Yankee invented what was called a " Keflec- tor," made of bright tin for baking. It was a small tin oven with a slanting top, open at one side, and when 12 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA required for use was set before the fire on the hearth. This simple contrivance was a great convenience, and came into general use. Modern inventions in the appliances for cooking have very much lessened the labour and increased the possibilities of supplying a variety of dishes, but it has not improved the quality of them. There were no better caterers to hungry stomachs than our mothers, whose practical education had been received in grandmother's kitchen. The other rooms of the house comprised a sitting-room — used only when there was company — a parlour, four bedrooms, and the room reserved for the old people. Up stairs were the sleeping and store-rooms. In the hall stood the tall old fashioned house clock, with its long pendulum swinging to and fro with siow and measured beat. Its face had looked upon the vener- able sire before his locks were touched with the frost of age. When his children were born it indicated the hour, and it had gone on telling off the days and years until the children were grown. And when a wedding day had come, it had rung a joyful peal through the house, and through the years the old hands had travelled on, the hammer had struck oft' the hours, and FIFTY YEAns AGO. 13 another generation had come to look upon it and grow familiar with its constant tick. The furniture was plain and substantial, more atten- tion being given to durability than to style or orna- ment. Easy chairs — save the spacious rocking-chair for old women — and lounges were not seen. There was no time for lolling on well-stutled cushions. The rooms were heated with large double box stoves, very thick and heavy, made at Three Rivers ; and by their side was always seen a large wood-box, well filled with sound maple or beech wood. But few pictures adorned the walls, and these were usually rude prints far in- ferior to those we get every day now from the illus- trated papers. Books, so plentiful and cheap now-a- days, were then very scarce, and where a few could be found, they were mostly heavy doctrinal tomes [)iled away on some shelf where they were allowed to re- main. The home we now inhabited was altogether a dif- ferent one from that we had left in the back conces- sion, but it was like many another to be found along the bay shore. Besides my own family, there were two younger brothers of my father, and two grown- up nieces, so that when wo all mustered round the 14 COUNTRY LIFE llf CANADA table, there was a goodly number of hearty poo})le always ready to do justice to the abundant provision made. This reminds me of an incident or two illus- trative of the lavish manner with which a well-to-do farmer's table was supplied in those days. A Mon- treal merchant and his wife were spending an evening at a very highly -esteemed farmer's house. At the proper time supper was announced, and the visitors, with the family, were gathered round the table, which groaned, metaphorically speaking, under the load it bore. There were turkey, beef and ham, bread and the favourite short cake, sweet cakes in endless variety, pies, preserves, sauces, tea, coffee, cider, and what not. The visitors were amazed, as they might well be, at the lavisii display of cooking, and they were pressed, with well-meant kindness, to partake heartily of every- thing. They yielded good-naturedly to the entreaties to try this and that as long as they could, and paused only when it was impossible to take any more. When they were leaving, the merchant asked his friend when they were coming to Montreal, and insisted tliat they should come soon, promising if they would only let him know a little before when they were coming he would buy up everything there was to be had in the FIFTY YEARS AGO. l5 market for supper. On another occasion an English gentleman was spending an evening at a neighbour's, and, as usual, the supper table was crowded with everything the kind-hearted hostess could think of. The guest was plied with dish jifter dish, and, think- ing it would be disrespectful if he did not take some- thing from each, he continued to eat, and take from the dishes as they were passed, until he found his plate, and all the available space around him, heaped up with cakes and pie. To dispose of all he had care- fully deposited on his plate, and around it, seemed utterly impossible, and yet he thought he would be considered rude if he did not finish what he had taken, and he struggled on, with the perspiration visible on his face, until in despair he asked to bo excused, as he could not eat any more if it were to save his life. It was the custom in those days for the hired help (the term servant was not used) to sit at the table with the family. On one occasion, a Montreal merchant prince was on a visit at a wealthy Quaker's, who owned a large farm, and employed a number of men in the summer. It was customary in this house for the family to seat themselves first at the head of the 16 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA table, after which tlie hued liainU all caiiio in, and took the lower end. Tliis was the only distinction. They were served just as the rest of tlie family. On this occasion the guest came out with the family, and they were seated. Then the hired men and girls came in and did the same, whereupon the merchant left the table and the room. The old lady, thinking there was something the matter with the man, soon after followed him into the sitting-room, and asked him if he was ill. He said " No." " Then why did thee leave the table ? " the old lady eni^uired. " Because," said he " I am not accustomed to cat with servants." " Very well," replied the old lady, " if thee cannot cat with us, thee will have to go without thy dinner." His honour concluded to pocket his dignity, and sub- mit to the rules of the house. I was sent to school early — more, 1 fancy, to get me out of the way for a good part of the day, than from any expectation that 1 would learn much. It took a longtime to hannner the alphabet into my head. But if I was dull at school, I was noisy and mischievous enough at home, and very fond of tormenting my sis- ters. Hence, my parents — and no child ever had better ones — could not be blamed very much if they did FIFTY YEARS AGO. 17 send me to school for no other reason than to be rid of me. The school house was close at hand, and its aspect is deeply graven in my memory. My first school- master was an Englishman who had seen better days. Ho was a good scholar, I believe, but a poor teacher The school house was a small square structure, with low ceiling. In the centre of the room was a box stove, around which the long wooden benches without backs were ranged. Next the walls were the desks, raised a little from the floor. In the summer time the pupils were all of tender years, the elder ones being kept at home to help with the work. At the commencement of my educational course I was one of a little lot of urchins ranged daily on hard wooden seats, with our feet dang- ling in the air, for seven or eight hours a day. In such a plight we were expected to be very good children, to make no noise, and to learn our lessons. It is a marvel that so many years had to elajise before parents and teachers could be brought to see that keeping children in such a position for so many hours was an act of great cruelty. The terror of the rod was the only *hing that could keep us still, and that often failed. Sometimes, tired and weary, we fell asleep and tumbled off the bench, to be roused by the fall and the rod. In 18 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA the winter time the small school room was filled to overflowing with tlie lari^cr boys and girls. This did not improve our condition, for wo were more closely packed together, and were either shivering with the cold or being cooked with the red-hot stove. In a shoit time after, the old school house, where my father, I believe, had got his schooling, was hoisted on run- ners, and, with the aid of several yoke of oxen, was taken up the road about a mile and enlarged a little. This event brought my course of study to an end for a while. I next sat under the rod of an Irish peda- gogue — an old man who evidently believed that the only way to get anything into a boy's head was to pound it in with a stick through his back. There was no discipline, and the noise we made seemed to rival a Bedlam. We used to play all sorts of tricks on the old man, and I was not beliind in contriving or carrying them into execution. One day, however, I was caught and severely thrashed. This so mortified me that I jumped out of the window and went home. An inves- tigation followed, and I was whijiped by my father and sent back. Poor old Dominie, he has long since put Ity his Slick, and passed bej^ond the reach of unndy boys. Thus I passed on fixm teacher to teacher, staying at FIFTY YEARS AGO. 19 home in the summer, and resuming my books again in the winter. Sometimes I went to the old school house up the road, sometimes to the one in an opposite direc- tion. The latter was larger, and there was generally a better teacher, but it was much farther, and I had to set oft* early in the cold frosty mornings with my books and dinner basket, often through deep snow and drifts. At night I had to get home in time to help to feed the cattle and got in the wood for the fires. The school houses then were generally small and uncomfor- table, and the teachers were often of a very inferior order. The school system of Canada, which has since been moulded by the skilful hand of Dr. Ryerson into one of the best in the world, and which will give to his industry and genius a more enduring record than stone or brass, was in my day very imperfect indeed. It was, perhaps, up with the times. But when the ad- vantages which the youth of this country now possess are compared with the small facilities we had of pick- ing up a little knowledge, it seems almost a marvel that we learned anything. Spelling matches came at this time into vogue, and were continued for several years. They occasioned a friendly rivalry between schools, and were productive of good. The meetings 20 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA took place during the long winter nights, either weekly or fortnightly. Every school had one or more prize spellers, and these were selected to lead the match ; or> if the school was large, a contest between the girls and boys came off first. Sometimes two of the best spel- lers were selected by the scholars as leaders, and these would proceed to ' choose sides ; ' that is, one would choose a fellow pupil, who would rise and take his or her place, and then the other, continuing until the list was exhausted. The preliminaries being completed, the contest began. At first the lower end of the class was disposed of, and as time wore on one after another would make a slip and retire, until two or three only were left on either side. Then the struggle became exciting, and scores of eager eyes were fixed on the contestants. With the old hands there was a good deal of fencing, though the teacher usually had a reserve of difficult words to end the fight, which often lasted two or three hours. He failed sometimes, and then it was a drawn battle to be fought on another occasion. Debating classes also met and discussed grave ques- tions, upon [such old-fashioned subjects as these: " Which is the more useful to man, wood or iron ? " " Which afiords the greater enjoyment, anticipation or FIFTY YEARS AGO. 21 participation ? " " Which was the greater general, Wellington or Napoleon ? " Those who were to take part in the discussion were always selected at a pre- vious meeting, so that all that had to be done was to select a chairman and commence the debate. I can give from memory a sample or two of these first at- tempts. " Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemen : Un- accustomed as I am to public speaking, I rise to make a few remarks on this all important question — ahem — Mr. Pre; lent, this is the first time I ever tried to speak in public, and unaccustomed as I am to — to — ahem. Ladies and Gentlemen, I think our opponents are altogether wrong in arguing that Napoleon was a greater general than Wellington — ahem — I ask you, Mr. President, did Napoleon ever thrash Wellington ? Didn't "Wellington always thrash him, Mr. President ? Didn't he whip him at Waterloo and take him prisoner ? and then to say that he is a greater general than Wel- lington — why, Mr. President, he couldn't hold a candle to him. Ladies and Gentlemen, I say that Napoleon wasn't a match for him at all. Wellington licked him every time — and — ^j'^es, licked him every time. I can't think of any more, Mr. President, and I will take my seat, Sir, by saying that I'm sure you will decide in 22 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA our favour I'rom Uio stron^f aroruments our .side has produced." After listening to sucli powerful reasoning, some one of the older spectators would ask Mr President to be al- lowed to say a few words on some other important question to be debated, and would proceed to air his eloquence and instruct the youth on such a topic as this : " Which is the greater evil, a scolding wife or a smoky chimney ? " After this wise the harangue would proceed : — " Mr. President, I have been almost mad a-listening to the debates of these 'jre youngsters — they don't know nothing at all about the subject. What do they know about the evil of a scolding wife ? Wait till they have had one for twenty years, and been hammered, and jammed, and slammed, all the while. Wait till they've been scolded because the baby cried, because the fire wouldn't burn, because the room was too hot, because the cow kicked over the milk, because it rained, because the sun shined, because the hen': didn't lay, because the butter wouldn't come, because the old cat had kittens, because they came too soon for dinner, because they were a minute late — before they talk about the worry of a scolding wife. Why, Mr. President, I'd rather hear the clatter of hammers FIFTY YEARS AGO. 23 and stones and twenty tin pans, and nine brass kettles, than the din, din, din, of the tongue of a scolding woman ; yes, sir, I would. To my mind, Mr. Presi- dent, a smoky chimney is no more to be compared to a scolding wife than a little nigger is to a dark night." These meetings were generally well attended, and con- ducted with considerable spirit. If the discussions were not brilliant, and the young debater often lost the thread of his argument — in other words, got things " mixed " — he gained confidence, learned to talk in public, and to take higher flights. Many of our lead- ing public men learned their first lessons in the art of public speaking in the country debating school. Apple trees were planted early by the bay settlersi and there were now numerous large orchards of ex- cellent fruit. Pears, plums, cherries, currants and goose- berries were also common. The apple crop was gath- ered in October, the best fruit being sent to the cellar for family use during winter, and the rest to the cider mill. The cider mills of those days were somewhat rude contrivances. The mill proper consisted of two cogged wooden cylinders about fourteen inches in diameter, and perhaps twenty-six inches in length, placed in an 24 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA upright position in a frame. The pivot of one of these extended upward about six feet, and at its top was secured the long shaft to which the horse was attached, and as it was driven round and round, the mill crunched the apples with many a creak and groan, and shot them out on the opposite side. The press which waited to receive the bruised mass was about eight feet square, round the floor of which, near the edge, ran a deep groove to carry off the juice. In making what is known as the cheese, the first process was to spread a thick layer of long rye or wheat straw round the outer edge, on the floor of the press. Upon this the pulp was placed to the depth of a foot or more. The first layer of straw was then turned in carefully, and another layer of straw put down as in the first place, upon which more pulp was placed, and so on from layer to layer, until the cheese was complete. Planks were then placed on the top, and the pressure of the power- ful wooden screw brought to bear on the mass. At once a copious stream of cider began to flow into the casks or vat, and here the fun began with the boys, who, well armed with long straws, sucked their fill. By the roadside stands the cider-tnill, Where a lowland slumber waits the rill : FIFTY YEARS AGO. 25 A great brown building, two stories high, On the western hill-face warm and dry ; And odorous piles of apples there Fill with incense the golden air ; And masses of pomace, mixed with straw, To their amber sweets the late flies draw. The carts back up to the uppar door. And spill their treasures in on the floor ; Down through the toothed wheels they go To the wide, deep cider press below. And the screws are turned by slow degrees Down on the straw-laid cider cheese ; And with each turn a fuller stream Bursts fromboneath the graning beam, An amber stream the gods might sip, And fear no morrow's parched lip. But wherefore, gods ? Those idle toys Were soulless to real Canadian boys ! What classic goblet ever felt Such thrilling touches through it melt, As throb electric along a straw, When the boyish lips the cider draw ? The years are heavy with weary sounds, And their discords life's sweet music drowns But yet I hear, oh, sweet ! oh, sweet ! The rill that bathed my bare, brown feet ; And yet the cider drips and falls On my inward ear at intervals 20 COUNTRY LIFK IN OANAl)A And I lead at times in a sad, sweet dream To the bubbling of that little stream ; And I sit in a visioned autumn still, In the sunny door of the cider mill. — Whittibu. It was a universal custom to set a disli of apples and a pitcher of cider before everyone who came to the house. Any departure from this would have been thougiit disrespectful. The sweet cider was generally boiled down into a syrup, and, with apples (juartored and cooked in it, was e([ual to a preserve, and made splen- did pies. It w^as called apple sauce, and found its way to the table thrice a day. Then came the potatoes and roots, which had to be dug and brought to the cellar. It was not very nice work, particularly if the ground was damp and cold, to pick them out and throw them into the basket, but it had to be done, and I was compelled to do my share. One good thing about it was that it was never a long job. There was much more fun in gathering the pump- kins and corn into the barn. The corn was husked, gen- erally at night, the bright golden ears finding their way into the old crib, from whence it was to come again to fatten the turkeys, the geese, and the ducks for Chris- mas. It was a very common thing to have husking flFTY YEAUS ago. 27 bees. A few neijilibours would be invited, the barn lit with candles. Strung o'er the heaped-up harvest, from pitchforks in the mow, Shone dimly down the lanterns on the pleasant scenes below ; The growing pile of huiks behind, the golden ears before, And laughing eyes, and busy hand, and brown cheeks glimmer- ing o'er. Half hidden in a quiet nook, serene of look and heart. Talking their old times o'er, the old men sat apart ; While up and down tho unhusked pile, or nestling in its sh.'de, At hide-and-seek, with laugh and shout, tho happy children played. — Whittier. Amid jokes and laughter the husks and ears would fly, until the work was done, when all hands would repair to the house, and, after partaking of a hearty supper, leave for home in high spirits. Then came hog-killing time, a very heavy and disa- greeable task, but the farmer has many of these, and learns to take them pleasantly. My father, with two or three expert hands dressed for the occasion, would slaughter and dress ten or a dozen large hogs in the course of a day. There were other actors besides in the play. It would be curious, indeed, if all hands were not employed when work was going on. My part in the performance was to attend to the fire under the t 28 COUNTRY LIF*E TN CANADA great kettle in which the hogs were scalded, and to keep the water boiling, varied at intervals by blowing up bladders with a quill for my own amusement. In the house the fat had to be looked to, and after being washed and tried (the term used for melting), was poured into dishes and set aside to cool and become lard, afterwards finding its way into cakes and pie- crust. The out-door task does not end with the first day either, for the hogs have to be carried in and cut up; the large meat tubs, in which the family supplies are kept, have to be filled ; the hams and shoulders to be nicely cut and cured, and the rest packed into bar- rels for sale. Close on the heels of hog-killing came sausage- making, when meat had to be chopped and flavoured, and stuffed into cotton bags or prepared gut. Then the heads and feet had to be soaked and scraped over and over again, and when ready were boiled, the one beiner converted into head-cheese, the other into souse. All these matters, when conducted under the eye of a good housewife, contributed largely to the comfort and good living of the family. Who is there, with such an experience as mine, that receives these things at the hands of his city butcher and meets them on his table, FIFTY YEARS AGO. 29 who does not wish tor the moment that he was a boy, and seated at his mother's board, that he might shake off the phantom canine and feline that rise on his plate, and call in one of mother's sausages. As the fall cre])t on, the preparations for winter in- creased. The large roll of full cloth, which had been lately brought from the mill, was carried down, and father and I set out for a tailor, who took our meas- ure and cut out our clothes, which we brought home, and some woman, or perhaps a wandering tailor, was employed to make them up. There was no discussion as to style, and if the fit did not happen to be perfect, there was no one to criticise either the material or the make, nor were there any arbitrary rules ot' fashion to be respected. We had new clothes^ which were warm and comfortable. What more did we want ? A cob- bler, too, was brought in to make our boots. My father was quite an expert at shoemaking, but he had so many irons in the fire now that he could not do more than mend or make a hght pair of shoes for mother at odd spells. The work then turned out by the sons of St. Crispin was not highly finished. It was coarse, but, what was of greater consequence, it was strong, and wore well. While all this was 80 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA going on for the benefit of the male portion of the house, mother and the girls were busy turning the white flannels into shirts and drawers, and the plaid roll that came with it into dresses for themselves. As in the case of our clothes, there was no consult- ing of fashion-books, for a very good reason, perhaps — there was none to consult. No talk about Miss Brown or Miss Smith having her dress made this way or that ; and I am sure they were far happier and contented than the girls of to-day, with all their show and glitter. The roads at that time, more i)ar Ocularly in the fall, were almost impassable until frozen up. In the spring, until the frost was out of the ground, and they had settled and dried, they were no better. The bridges were rough, wooden affairs, covered with logs, usually flattened on one side with an axe. The swamps and marshes were made passable by laying down logs, of nearly e(£ual size, close together in the worst places. These were known as corduroy roads, and were no pleasant highways to ride over for any distance, as all who have tried them know. But in the winter the frost and snow made good travelling everywhere, and FIFTY YEARS AGO. 81- hence the winter was the time for the farmer to do his teaming. One of the first things tliat claimed attention when the sleighing began, and before the snow got deep in the woods, was to get out tlie year's supply of fuel. The men set out for the bush before it was fairly day- light, and commenced chopping. The trees were cut in lengths of about ten feet, and the brush piled in heaps. Then my father, or myself, when I got old enough, followed with the sleigh, and began drawing it, until the wood yard was filled with sound beech and maple, with a few loads of dry pine for kindling. These huge wood-piles always bore a thrifty appear- ance, and spoke of comfort and good cheer within. Just before Christmas there was always one or two beef cattle to kill. Sheep had also to be slaughtered, with the turkeys, geese and ducks, which had been getting ready for decapitation. After home wants were provided for, the rest were sent to market. The winter's woi'k now began in earnest, for whatever may be said about the enjoyment of Canadian winter life — and it is an enjoyable time to the Canadian — there are few who really enjoy it so much as the farmer. He cannot, however, do like bruin — roll himself up in 32 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA. the fall, and suck his paw until spring in a state of semi-unconsciousness, for his cares are numerous and imperious, his work varied and laboiious. His large stock demands regular attention, and must be fed morning and night. The great barn filled with grain had to be threshed, for the cattle needed the straw, and the grain had to be got out for the market. So 'l^y aftei- day he and his men hammered away with the flail, or spread the sheaves on the barn floor to be trampled out by honses. Threshing machines were unknown then, as were all the labour-saving machines now so extensively used by the farmer. His muscular arm was the only macliine ho then had to rely upon, and if it did not accomplish much, it succeeded in doing its work well, and in providing him with all his modest wants. Then the fanning mill came into play to clean the grain, after which it was carried to the granary, whence again it was taken either to the mill or to market Winter was also the time to get out the logs from the woods, and to haul them to the mill to be sawed in the spring — we always had a use for boards. These saw mills, built on sap-streams, which ran dry as soon as the sp-ing freshets wore over, were like the cider mills, small rough structures. They had FIFTY YEARS AGO. 33 but oriu upright saw, which, owing to its primitive construction, did not move as now, with lightning rap- idity, nor did it turn out a very large quantity of stuff. It answered the purpose of the day, however, and that was all that was required or expected of it. Rails, also, had to be split and drawn to where new fences were wanted, or where old ones needed repairs. There were flour, beef, mutton, butter, apples, and a score more of things to be taken to market and dis- posed of. But, notwithstanding all this, the winter was a good, joyful time for the farmer — a time, more- over, when the social requisites of his nature received the most attention. Often the horses would be put to the sleigh, and we would .set off, well bundled U]), to visit some friends a few miles distant, or, as frequently happened, to visit an uncle or an aunt, far away in the new settlements. The roads often wound along for miles throur the ear v. ith more melodious soimd than the FIFTY YEARS AGO. 51 grandest orchestra to the musical enthusiast. Even " Ohl Gray," when I followed the plough, used to give answer to the cheerful wind of the horn by a loud whinny, and stop in the furrow, as if to say, " There now, off with my harness, and let us to dinner." If I happened to be in the middle of the; field, I had con- siderable trouble to get the old fellow to go on to the end. I mu.'+t say a few words in this place al)Out " Old Gray." Why he was always called "Old Gray" is more than I know. His colour could not have sug- gested the name, for he was a bright roan, almost a bay. He was by no means a pretty animal, being raw- boned, and never secinin;^ to be in first-rate condition ; but he was endowed with remarkable sagacity and great endurance, and was, moreover, a fleet trotter. When my father began the world for himself he was a part of his chattels, and survived his master sev- eral years. Father drove him twice to Little York one winter, a distance of over one hundred and fifty miles, accomplishing the trip both times inside of a week. He never would allow a team to pass him. It was customary in those days, particularly with youngstei-s in the winter, to tuin out and run by, 52 COUNTRY LTFE IN CANADA and many such races I have had ; but the moment a team turned put of the track to pass " Old Gray," he was off like a shot, and you might as well try to hold a locomotive with pins as him with an ordinary bit. He was skittish, and often ran away. On one occasion, when I was very young, he ran off with father and myself in a single waggon. We were both thrown out, and, our feet becoming entangled in the lines, we were dragged some distance. The wheel passed over my head, and cut it so that it bled freely, but the wound was not serious. My father was badly hurt. After a while we started for home, and before we reached it the old scamp got frightened at a log, and set off full tilt. Again father was thrown out, and I tipped over on the bottom of the waggon. Fortunately, the shafts gave way, and let him loose, when he stopped. Father was carried home, and did not leave the house for a long time. I used to ride the self-willed beast to school in the win- ter, and had great sport, sometimes, by getting boys on behind me, and, when they were not thinking, I would touch "Old (}ray" under the flank with my heel, which would make him spring as though he were shot, and off the boys would tumble in the snow. When I -li^isi '' ,''^^^^^* \v ill ^ ^^Vr *"'- "^o^kl ■j>(*|fciiiM»OTpF^jMfeti^vv v^ r4m Hi''- 73 C Z Z z o > ■-■■ >. f ij'«i^^: H^^- A^ ^ 1' 03 '^ Ii^SSbp'^ '.t. ! i^ ^ij Ik^p ^^^** '' i^' < HI* -^ l^l^^k ^H ebHHH^B i^:^ § - ^|| 'te ^yHMpiMJ 1^ 'i 1 ,11 19 * • » f-H r i FIFTY YEAllS AGO. 53 reached suliool I tied ui)thu reins and let him go home. I do not think he ever had an et^ual for mischief, and for the last years we had him we could do nothing with him. He was perpetually getting' into the fields of grain, and leading all the other cattle after him. We used to hobble him in all sorts of ways, but he would manage to push or rub down the fence at some weak point, and unless his nose was fastened down almost to the ground by a chain from his head to his hind leg, he would let down the bars, or open all the gates about the place. There was not a door about the barn but he would open, if he could get at the latch, and if the key was left in the granary door he would unlock that. If left standing he was sure to get his head-stall off, and we had to get a halter made specially for him. He finally became such a perpetual torment that we sold him, and we all had a good cry when the old horse went away. He was upwards of twenty-five years old at this time. How much longer he lived I cannot say. I never saw him afterward. As soon as the sun was well up, and our tasks about the house over, our part of this new play in the hay- field began, and with a fork or long stick we followed up the swathes and spread them out nicely, so that 54 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANAftA the grass would dry. In the afternoon it had t(j be raked up into vvinrows — work in which the girls often joined us — and after tea one or two of tlie men cocked it up, while we raked the ground clean after them. If the weather was clear and dry it would bo left out for several days before it was drawn into the barn or stacked ; but often it was housed as soon as dry. Another important matter which claimed the far- mer's attention at this time was the preparation of his summer-fallow for fall wheat. The ground was first broken up after the spring sowing was over, and about hay time the second ploughing had to be done, to de- stroy weeds, and get the land in proper order. In August the last ploughing came, and about the first of September the wheat was sown. It almost always happened, too, that there were some acres of wood- land that had been chopped over for fire wood and timber, to be cleaned up. Logs and bush had to be collected into piles, and burned. On new farms this was heavy woi-k. Then the timber was cut down, and ruthlessly given over to the fire. Logging bees were of frequent occurrence, when the neighbours turned out with their oxen and logging chains, and, amid the ring of the axf and the shouting of drivers and men FIFTY YEARS AGO. 5-5 with their liandspikes, tlio groiit lo^^s were rolled one upon another into huge heai)s, and loft for the tire to eat them out of the way. When the work was done, all hands proceeded to the house, grim and black as a band of sweeps, wliere, witli coi)ious use of soap and water, they brought themselves batdc to their normal condition, and went in and did justice to the supper prepared for them. In August the wheat fields were rea COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA out debate ! what a lesson dost thou read to council and to consistory ! — if my pen treat of you lightly — as haply it will wander — yet my spirit hath gravely felt the wisdom of your custom, when sitting among you in deepest peace, which some outwelling tears would rather confirm than disturb, I have reverted to the times of your beginnings, and the sowings of the seed by Fox and|Dewesbury. — I have witnessed that which brought before my eyes your heroic tranquillity, in- flexible to the rude jests and serious violences of the insolent soldiery, republican or royalist sent to molest you — for ye sate betwixt the fires of two persecutions, the outcast and off'-scouring of church and presbytery. — I have seen the reeling sea-rufl[ian, who had wandered into your receptacle with the avowed intention of dis- turbing your quiet, from the very spirit of the place receive in a moment a new heart, and presently sit among ye as a lainb amidst lambs. And I remember Penn before his accusers, and Fox in tlio bail-dock, where he was lifted up in spirit, as he tells us, and ' the judge and the jury became as dead men under his feet; " Our old family carriage — the lumbering waggon — revives many pleasant recollections. Many long rides FIFTY YEARS AGO. 65 were taken in it, both to mill and market, and, some- times I have curled myself up, and slept far into the night in it while waiting for my grist to be ground so I could take it home. But it was not used by the young folks as sleighs were in the winter. It was a staid, family vehicle, not suited to mirth or love-mak- ing. It was too noisy for that, and on a rough road, no very uncommon thing then, one was shaken up so thoroughly that there was but little room left for sen- timent. In later times, lighter and much more comfort- able vehicles were used. The elliptic or steel spring did not come into use until about 1840. I remember my grandfather starting off for New York in one of these light one-horse waggons. I do not know how long he was gone, but he made the journey, and returned safely. Long journej's by land were made, principally in summer, on horseback, both by men and women. The horse was also the young peoples' only vehicle at this season of the year. The girls wei'e usually gootl riders, and could gallop away as well on the bare back as on the side-saddle, A female cousin of my father's several times made journeys of from one to two hundred miles on horseback, and on one occasion she carried her infant son for a hundred 66 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA and fifty miles, a feat the women of to-day would conrider impossible. ; - » Then, as now, the early fall was not the least pleas- ant portion of the Canadian year. Everyone is familiar wilih the striking beauty of our woods after the frost begins, and the endless variety of shade and colour that mingles with such pleasing effect in every landscape. And in those days, as well as now, the farmers' attention was directed to preparation for the coming winter. His market staples then consisted of wheat or flour, pork and potash. The other products of his farm, such . as coarse grain, were used by himself. Butter and eggs were almost valueless, save on his own table. The skins of his sheep, calves and beef cattle which were slaughtered for his own use, were sent to the tanners, who dressed them on shares, the remainder . being brought home to be made up into boots, harness and mittens. Wood, which afterwards came into demand for steam purposes, was worthless. Sawn • lumber was not wanted, except for home use, and the shingles that covered the buildings were split and made by the farmer himself. If the men had logging-bees, and other bees to help them on with their work, the women, by way of com- H .FIFTY TEARS AGO. . 67 pensation, had bees of a more social and agreeable type. Among these were quilting bees, when the women and girls of the neighbourhood assembled in the afternoon, and turned out those skilfully and often artistically made rugs, so comfortable to lie under during the cold winter nights. There w^as often a great deal of sport at the close of one of these social industrial gatherings. "When the men came in from the iield to supper, some luckless wight was sure to be caught, and tossed up and down in the quilt amid the laughter and shouts of the company. But of all the bees, the apple -bee was the chief. In these old and young joined. The boys around the neighbour- hood, with their home-made apple-machines, of all shapes and designs, would come pouring in with their girls early in the evening. The large kitchen, with its sanded floor, the split bottomed chairs ranged round the room, the large tubs of apples, and in the centre the clean scrubbed pine table filled with wooden trays and tallow- candles in tin candlesticks, made an attractive picture which had for its setting the mother and girls, all smiles and good nature, receiving and pleasing the company. Mow the work begins amidst laughter and mirth ; the boys toss the peeled apples COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA away from their machines in rapid numbers, and the giria catch them, and with tlieir knives quarter and core them, while others string them with needles on long threads, and tie them so that they can be hung up to dry. As soon as the work is done the room is cleared fur supper, after which the old folks retire, and the second and moat pleasing part of the performance begins. These after-scenes were always entered into with a spirit of fun and honest abandonment truly refreshing. Where dancing was not objected to, a rustic fiddler would be spirited in by some of the youngsters as the sport began. The dance was not that languid sort of thing, toned down by modern refinement to a sliding, easy motion round the room, and which, for the lack of conversational accomplish- ments, is made to do duty for want of wit. Full of life and vigour, they danced for the real fun of the thing. The quick and inspiriting strains of the music sent them spinning round the room, and amid the rush and whirl of the flying feet came the sharp voice of the fiddler as he flourished his bow : " Right and left — balance to your pardner — cross hands — swing your pardner — up and down the middle," and so on through reel after reel. Some one of the boys FIFTY YEARS AGO. 6D woul SS whirled into huge drifts, blocking up the doors and paths and roads ; when , r. r " The whited air Hides hills and woods, the river and the heaven, And veils the farm-house at the garden's end ; " when the frost silvered over the window-panes, or crept through the cracks and holes, and fringed theui with its delicate fret- work ; when the storm raged and howled without, and " Shook beams and rafters as it passed ! " Within, happy faces were gathered around the blazing logs in the old lire-place. " Shut in from all the world without, We sat the clean-winged hearth about, Content to let the north wind roar, In baffled rage at pane and door, While the red logs before us beat The frost line back with tropic heat." The supper has been cleared away, and upon the clean white table is placed a large dish of apples and a pitcher of cider. On either end stands a tallow candle in a bright brass candlestick, with an extin- guisher attached to each, and the indispensable snuf- fers and tray. Sometimes the fingers are made use of in the place of the snuffers ; but it is not always satis- S4 ' Country li^e m cai^aDA factory to the snuffer, as he sometimes burns himself, and hastens to snap his fingers to get rid of the burn- ing wick. One of the candles is appropriated by- father, who is quietly reading his paper ; for we had newspapers then, though they would not compare very favourably with those of to-day, and we got them only once a week. Mother is darning socks. Grandmother is making the knitting needles fly, as though all her grandchildren were stockingless. The girls are sewing and making merry with the boys, and we are deeply engaged with our lessons, or what is more likely, playing fox and geese. " What matters how the night behaved ; What matter how the north-wind raved ; Blow high, blow low, not all its snow Could quench our ruddy hearth-lire's glow. O time and change ! with hair as gray As was my sire's that winter day, How strange it seems, with so much gone Of life and love, to still live on ! Ah brother.! only I and thou Are left of all the circle now — The dear home faces whereupon The fitful fire-light paled and shone, Henceforth, listen as we will. The voices of that hearth are still. " FIFTY TEARS AGO. •6 . CHAPTER IV. THE EARLY SETTLERS IN UPPER CANADA— PROSPERITY, NATIONAL AND INDIVIDUAL— THE OLD HOMES, WITHOUT AND WITHIN — CANDLE-MAKINO — SUPERSTITIONS AND OMENS— THE DEATH- WATCH — OLD ALMANAC'S— EE£S — THE DIVINING ROD — THE U. E. LOYALISTS — THEIR SUFFERINGS AND HEROISM — AN OLD AND A NEW PRICE LIST — PRIMITIVE HOROLOGES — A JAUNT IN ONE OF THE CONVENTIONAL " CARRIAGES " OF OLDEN TIMES— THEN AND NOW — A NOTE OF WARNING. THE settlement of Ontario, known up to the time of Confederation as the Province of Upper Can- ada, or Canada West, began in 1784, so that at the date I purpose to make a brief survey of the condition and progress of the country, it had been settled forty - six years. During those years — no insignificant period in a single life, but very small indeed in the history of a country — the advance in national prosperity and in the various items that go to make life pleasant and happy had been marvellous. The muscular arm of the sturdy pioneer had hewn its way into the primeval forest, and turned the gloomy wilderness into fruitful fields. It is well known that the first settlers located along the shores of the River St. Lawrence, the Bay of 86 COUNTRY LTPE IN CANADA Quints, Lake Ontario, and Lake Erie, and that, at the time of which I speak, this coastline of a few hundred miles, extending back but a very short distance — a long narrow strip cut from the serried edge of the bound- less woods — comprised the settlement of Canada West as it then existed. Persistent hard work had placed the majority in circumstances of more than ordinaiy comfort. Good houses had taken the place of log cabins, and substantial frame barns that of rude hovels. Hard fare and scanty raiment had given place to an abundance of the necessaries of life, and no people, perhaps, ever appreciated these blessings with more sincere thankfulness or more hearty contentment. The farmer was a strong, hardy man, the wife a ruddy, cheerful body, careful of the comforts of her house- hold. One table sufficed for themselves and their servants or hired help. Meat was provided twice and often thrice a day ; it being more a matter of taste than economy as to the number of times it was served. Fruit was abundant, and every matron prided herself upon preserving and putting away quantities of it for home use. So that at this time the world was moving smoothly with the people. An immense track of wilderness had been reclaimed, and waving FIFTY YEARS AGO. 87 fields and fruitful orchards occupied its place. It may have seemed to them, and indeed I think it did to inany, that the sum of all they could expect or even desire in this world had been attained ; while we, who remem- ber those days, and look back over the changes of fifty years, wonder how they managed to endure life at all. ^ I It is true that the father, more from the force of t. habit than necessity, perhaps, continued to toil in the field, and the mother, moved by the same cause, and I by her maternal anxiety for the well-being of her family, still spent many a long hour at the loom. The son, brought up to work, followed the plough, or did battle with the axe, making the woods ring with his rapid strokes. And as he laboured he pictured to himself the building of a nest in the unbroken forest behind the homestead, wherein the girl of his choice figured as the central charm. The daughter who toiled through the long summer's day to the monotonous hum of the spinning wheel, drawing out and twisting the threads that should enter into the make-up of her wedding outfit, was contented and happy. The time and cir- cqmstances in which they were placed presented noth- 88 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA ing better, and in their estimation the world had little more to offer than they already possessed. It is more than probable that if we, with our modern notions and habits, could to-day be carried back into a similar condition of life, we would feel that our lines had fallen in anything but pleasant places. The flying years, with their changes and anxieties, like the con- stant dripping of water on a stone, have worn off the rough edges that wounded and worried during their progress, and only the sunny spots, burned in the plastic memory of yoi^.nger days, remain. The old homes, as I remember them in those days, were thought palatial in their proportions and con- veniences, and so they were as compared with the old log houses. The latter often still remained as relics of other days, but they had been converted into the base use of a cow stable, or a shelter for waggons and farm implements during the winter. Their successors were, with very few exceptions, wooden structures, clap- boarded, and painted either yellow or red. The majority, however, never received any touching up from the painter's brush, and as the years rolled on became rusty and gray from the beating of winter's storms and the heat of summer's sun. The interior rarely displayed i FIFTY YEARS AGO. 89 any skill in arrangement or design. The living rooms were generally of goodly size, with low ceilings, but the sleoTci ng rooms were invariably small, with barely room enough for a large high-posted bedstead, and a space to undress in. The exterior was void of any archi- tectural embellishment, with a steep roof pierced by dormer windows. The kitchen, which always seemed to me like an after-thought, was a much lower part of the structure, welded on one end or the other of the main body of the house, and usually had a roof pro- jecting some distance over one side, forming "the stoop." In very many cases, the entrance to the spacious cellar, where the roots, apples, cider, and other needs of the household were kept, was from this through a trap door, so that in summer or winter the good wife had actually to go out of doors when any- thing was required for the table, and that was very often. It really seemed as though the old saying of " the longest way round is the shortest way home " entered not only into the laying out of highways, but into all the domestic arrangements. Economy of time and space, convenience, or anything to facilitate or lighten labour, does not appear to have occupied the thoughts of the people. Work was the normal cgn- 90 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA dition of their being, and, as we see it now, everything seems to have been so arranged as to prechide the possibility of any idle moments. At the end of the kitchen was invariably a large fire-place, with its wide, gaping mouth, an iron crane, with a row of pothooks of various lengths, from which to suspend the pots over the fire, and on the hearth a strong pair of andirons, flanked by a substantial pair of tongs and a shovel. During the winter, when the large back-log, often as much as two men could handle, was brought in and fixed in its place, and a good forestick put on the andirons, with well-split maple piled upon it and set ablaze with dry pine and chips, the old fire-place became aglow with cheerful fire, and dispensed its heat through the room. But in extremely cold weather it sometimes happened that while one side was being roasted the other was pinched with cold. At one side of the fire- place there was usually a large oven, which, when required, was heated by burning dry wood in it, and then the dough was put into tin pans and pushed in to be baked. Sometimes the ovens were built on frames in the yard, and then in wind or storm the baking had to be carried out doors and in. Every kitchen had O^ie or more spacious cupboards ; whatever need there FIFTY TEARS AGO. 91 was for other conveniences, these were always provided, and were well filled. The other rooms of the house were generally warmed by large box stoves. The spare bedrooms were invariably cold, and on a severe night it was like undressing out of doors and jumping into a snowbank. I have many a time shivered for half an hour before my body could generate heat enough to make me comfortable. The furniture made no pre- tensions to artistic design or elegance. It was plain and strong, and bore unmistakable evidence of having originated either at the carpenter's bench or at the hands of some member of the family, in odd spells of leisure on rainy days. ISecessity is axiomatically said to be the mother of invention, and as there were no furniture makers with any artistic skill or taste in the country, and as the inclination of the people ran more in the direction of the useful than the ornamental, most of the domestic needs were of home manufacture. I have a clear recollection of the pine tables, with their strong square legs tapering to the floor, and of how carefully they were scrubbed. Table covers were seldom used, and only when there was company, and then the cherry table with its folding leaves was brought out, and the pure white linen cloth, most likely the production of 92 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA the good wife's own hands, was carefully spread upon it. Thon came the crockery. Who can ever forget the blue-edged plates, cups and saucers, and other dishes whereon indigo storks and mandarins, or something approaching a representation of them, glided airily over sky-blue hills in their pious way from one indigo pagoda to another. These things, I have no doubt, would be rare prizes to Ceramic lovers of the present day. The cutlery and silver consisted mostly of bone- handled knives and iron forks, and iron and pewter spoons. On looking over an old inventory of my grand- father's personal effects not long since, I came upon these items : " two pair of spoon moulds," and I remembered melting pewter and making spoons with thesemoulds wheni wasvery young. Cooking was done in the oven, and over the kitchen fire, and the utensils" were a dinner pot, teakettle, frying pan and skillet There were no cooking stoves. The only washing machines were the ordinary wash tubs, soft soap, and the brawny arms and hands of the girls ; and the only wringers were the strong wrists and firm grip that could give a vigorous twist to what passed through the hands. Water was drawn from the wells with a bucket fastened to a long slender pole attached to a sweep sus- FIFTY YfiAiiS AGO. &S pended to a crotch. Butter, as has aU'eady been inti- mated, was made in upright churns, and many an hour have I stood, with mother's apron pinned around me to keep my clothes from getting spattered, pounding at the stubborn cream, when every minute seemed an hoar, thinking the butter would never come. When evening set in, we were wont to draw around the cheerful fire on the hearth, or perhaps up to the kitchen table, and read and work by the dim light of "tallow dips," placed in tin candlesticks, or, on extra occasions, in brass or silver ones, with their snuffers, trays and extinguishers. Now, we sit by the brilliant light of the coal oil lamp or of gas. Then, coal oil was in the far- off future, and there was not a gas jet in Canada, if indeed in America. The making of tallow candles, before moulds were used, was a slow and tiresome task. Small sticks were used, about two feet long, upon each of which six cotton wicks, made for the purpose, were placed about two inches apart, each wick being from ten to twelve inches long. A large kettle was next partly filled with hot water, upon which melted tallow was poured. Then, two sticks were taken in the right hand, and the wick slowly dipped up and down through the melted tallow. This process was continued until •1.-. ' ' • . &4 COtJiiTRJr LIFE IN CANADA the candles had attained sutHciout size, when thev were put aside to harden, and then taken off the sticks and put away. It required considerable practical experience to make a smooth candle which would burn evenly ; and a sputtering candle was an abomination. The cloth with which the male members of the family were clad, as well as the flannel that made the dresses and under- clothing for both, was carded, spun, and often woven at home, as was also the fiax that made the linen. There were no sewing or knitting machines, save the deft hands that plied the needle. Carpets were seldom seen. The floors of the spare rooms, as they were called, were painted almost invariably with yellow ochre paint, and the kitchen floorwa-^kept clean and white with the file, and sanded. The old chairs, which, in point of comfort, modern times have In no way improved upon, were also of home make, with thin round kgs and splint-bottomed seats, or, what was more common, elm bark evenly cut and plaited. Many a time have I gone to the woods in the spring, when the willow catkins in the swamp and along the side of the creek turned from silver to gold, and when the clusters of linwort nodded above the purple-green leaves in the April wind, and --■ J'. firtY YEARS AGO. 9S taken the bark in long strips from the elm trees to re- seat the dilapidated chairs. If the labour-saving appliances were so scanty in- doors, they were not more numerous outside. The farmer's implements were rude and rough. The wooden plough, with its wrought- iron share, had not disap- peared, but ploughs with cast-iron mould-boards, land- sides and shares, were rapidly coming into use. These had hard-wood beams, and a short single handle with which to guide them. They were clumsy, awkward things to work with, as I remember full well, and though an improvement, it was impossible to do nice work with them. Indeed, that part of the question did not receive much consideration, the principal ob- ject being to get the ground turned over. They were called patent ploughs. Drags were either tree tops or square wooden frames with iron teeth. The scythe for hay and the cradle for grain, with strong backs and muscular arms to swing them, were the only mowers and reapers known. The hand rake had not been superseded by the horse rake, nor the hoe by the cul- tivator ; and all through the winter, the regular thump, thump of the tiails on the barn Hoor could be heard, or the trampling out of the grain by the horses' feet. The COUNTRY LIFE IN CAKAtiA rattle of the fanning mill announced the finishing df the task. Threshing machines and cleaners were yet to come. It will be seen from what I have said that both in the house and out of it work was a stern and exactinof master, whose demands were incessant, satisfied only by the utmost diligence. It was simply by this that so much was accomplished. It is true there were other incentives that gave force to the wills and nerves to the arms which enabled our forefathers to overcome the numberless arduous tasks that demanded attention daily throughout the year. All the inventions that have accumulated so rapidlj'- for the last twenty years or more, to lighten the burden and facilitate the ac- complishment of labour and production, as well as to promote the comfort of all classes, were unknown fifty years ago. Indeed many of the things that seem so simple and uninteresting to us now, as I shall have oc- casion to show further on, were then hidden in the future. Take for example the very common and indis- pensable article, the lucifier match, to the absence of which allusion has already been made. Its simple method of producing fire had never entered the imagi- nation of our most gifted sires. The only way known FIFTY YEA.RS AGO. 97 to them was the primitive one of rubbiug two sticks to- gether and producing fire by friction — a somewhat tedious process — or with a Hint, a heavy jack-knife, and a bit of punk, a fungous growth, the best of which for this purpose is obtained from the beech. Gun flints were most generally used. One of these was placed on a bit of dry punk, and held firmly in the left hand, while the back of the closed blade of the knife thus brought into contact with the flint by a quick downward stroke of the right hand produced a shower of sp.uks, some of which, falling on the punk, would ignite ; and thus a fire was produced. In the winter, if the fire went out, there were, as I have already stated, but two alterna- tives — either the flint and steel, or a run to a nei< h- bour's house for live coals. There were many superstitious notions current among the people in those days. Many an omen both foi- crood and evil was sincerely believed in, which even yet in quiet places finds a lodgement whore the sciioolii aster has not been much abroad. But the half Cf3ntury tliat has pas33d away has seen the last of many a foolish notion. A belief in omens was not confined to the poor and ignorant, for brave men have been known to tremble at seeing a winding-sheet in a candle, and a 98 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA learned men to gather their little ones around them, fearinjr that one would be Hnatclied away, because a dog outside took a fancy to howl at tlie moon. And who has not heard the remark when a sudden shiver came over one, that an enemy was then walking over the spot which would be his grave ? Or who has not noticed the alarm occasioned by the death watch — the noise, resembling the ticking of a watch, made by a harmless little insect in the wall — or the saying that if thirteen sit down to table, one is sure to die within a year ? Somebody has said there is one case when he believed this omen to be true, and that is when thir- teen sit down to dinner and there is only enough for twelve. There Wiis no end to bad omens. It was bad luck to see the new moon for the first time over the left shoulder, but if seen over the right it was the reverse. It is well known that the moon has been supposed to exercise considerable influence over our l)lanet, among the chief of which are tlie tides, and it was believed also to liave a great deal to do with much smaller matters. There are few who have not seen on the first page of an almanac the curious picture representing a nude man with exposed bowels, and surrounded with the zodiacal signs. This was al- PIPTY YEARS AQO. 99 ways found in tlio old almanacs, and indeed they would be altogether unsaleable without it and the weather forecast. How often have I seen the almanac consulted as to whether it was going to be fair or stormy, cold or hot ; how often seen the mother studying the pic- tures when she wished to wean her babe. If she found the change of the moon occurred when the sign was in Aries or Gemini or Taurus, all of which were supposed to exercise a baneful influence on any part of the body above the heart, she would defer the matter until a change came, when the sign would be in Virgo or Li- bra, considering it extremely dangerous to undertake the operation in the former case. The wife was not alone in this, for the liusband waited for a certain time in the moon to sow his peas — that is, if he wished to ensure a good crop. He also thought it unlucky to kill hogs in the wane of the moon, because the pork would shrink and waste in the boiling. The findincr of an old horseshoe was a sure sign of good luck, and it was quite common to see one nailed up over the door. It is said that the late Horace Greeley always kept a rusty one over the door of his sanctum. To begin anything on Friday was sure to end badly. I had an esteemed friend, the late sherift' of the county of , who 100 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA faithfully believed this, and adhered to it up to the time of his death. May was considered an unlucky month to marry in, and when I was thinking of this matter a number of years later, and wished the event to occur during the month, my wish was objected to on this ground, and the ceremony deferred until June in consequence. It is said that the honey bee came to America with the Pilgi'im Fathers. Whether this be so or not I am unprepared to say. If it be true, then there were loyalists among them, for they found tlieir way to Canada with the U. E.'s, and contributed very consid- erably to the enjoyment of the table. Short-cake and honey were things not to be despised in those days, J rer.'^mber. There was a curious custom that prevailed 01 ' jwing horns and pounding tin pans to keep the bees from going away when swarming. The custom is an Old Country one, I fancy. Tlie reader will remember that Dickens, in " Little Dorrit," makes Ferdinand Barnacle say : " You really have no idea how the human bees will swarm to the beating of any old tin kettle." Another peculiar notion prevailed withjrespect to discovering the proper place to dig wells. There wore FIFTY YEARS AGO. 101 certain persons, I do not remember what they were called, whether water doctors or water witches, who professed to be able, with the aid of a small hazel crotched twig, which was held firmly in both hands with the crotch inverted, to tell where a well should be sunk with a certainty of finding water. The pro- cess was simply to walk about with the twig thus held, and when the right place was reached, the forked twig would turn downwards, however firmly held ; and on the strength of this, digging would be commenced in the place indicated. A curious feature about this was that there were but very few in whose hands the ex- periment would work, and hence the water discoverer was a person of some repute. I never myself witnessed the performance, but it was of common occurence.* The people of to-day will no doubt smile at these reminiscences of a past age, and think lightly of the *The render will rememher the occult operations of DouHterswivel in the seventeenth chapter of Scott's Antvinarji. " In truth, the German was now got to a little copae-thicket at some distance from the ruins, where he affected busily to search for such a wand as should suit the purpose of his mystery ; and after cutting off a small twig of hazel ter- minating in a forked end, which he pronounced to poHseas the virtue j)roper for the experiment that he was about to exhiint, holding the forked ends of the wand each between the finger and the thumb, and thus keeinng the rod upright, he proceeded to pace the ruined aisles," &c. So it will be seen that we had Canadian successors of Douster- Bwivel in my time, but we had no Oldbucks. 102 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA life surroundings of these early pioneers of the Pro- vince. But it must not be forgotten that their condi- tion of life was that of the first remove from the bush and the log cabin. There was abundance, without luxury, and it was so widely different from the struggle of earlier years that the people were contented and happy. "No people on earth," says Mr. Talbot, in 1823, " live better than the Canadians, so far as eating and drinking justify the use of the expression, for they may be truly said to fare sumptuously every day. Their breakfast not unfrequently consists of twelve or fourteen different ingredients, which are of the most heterogeneous nature. Green tea and fried pork, honey- comb and salted salmon, pound cake and pickled cucumbers, stewed chickens and apple-tarts, maple molasses and pease-pudding, gingerbread and sour- crout, are to be found at almost every table. The dinner differs not at all from the breakfast, and the afternoon repast, which they term supper, is equally substantial." The condition of the Province in 1830 could not be otherwise than pre-eminently satisfactory to its in- habitants. Tliat a people who had been driven from their homes, in most cases destitute of the common FIFTY YEARS AGO. 103 needs of ordinary life, should have come into a vast wilderness, and, in the course of forty-six years, have founded a country, and placed themselves in circum- stances of comfort and independence, seems to me to be one of the marvels of the century. The struggles and trials of the first settlers must ever be a subject of deepest interest to every true Canadian, and, as an illustration of the power of fixed principles upon the action of men, there are few things in the world's history that surpass it. It must be remembered that many, nay most, of the ftimilies who came here had, prior jO and during the Revolutionary war, been men of means and position. All these advantages they were forced to abandon. They came into this country with empty hands, accepted the liberality of the British Government for two years, and went to work. Provi- dence smiled upon their toils, and in the year of which I speak they had grown into a prosperous and happy people. The social aspect of things had changed but little. The habits and customs of early days still remained. The position of the inhabitants was one of exigency. The absorbing desire to succeed kept them at home. They knew but little of what was passing in the 104 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA world outside, and as a general thing they cared less. Their chief interest was centred in the common wel- fare, and each contributed his or her share of intel- ligence and f«agacity to further any plans that were calculated to promote the general good. Every day called for some new expedient in which the comfort or advantage of the whole was concerned, for there were no positions save those accorded to worth and intellect. The sufferings or misfortunes of a neighbour, as well as his enjoyments, were participated in by all. Know- ledge and ability were respectfully looked up to, yet those who possessed these seemed hardly conscious of their gifts. The frequent occasions which called for the exercise of the mind, sharpened sagacity, and gave strength to character. Avarice and vanity were con- y - fined to narrow limits. Of money there was little. \ Dress was coarse and plain, and was not subject to \ ^ the whims or caprices of fashion. The girls, from the \ \ examples set them by their mothers, were industrious \ and constantly employed. Pride of birth was unknown, \ and the affections flourished fair and vigorously, un- checked by the thorns and brambles with which our minds are cursed ia the advanced stage of refinement \ of the present day. \ FIFTY YEARS AGO. 105 The secret of their success, if there was any secret in it, was the economy, industry and moderate wants of every member of the household. The clothing and living were the outcome of the farm. Most of the ordinary implements and requirements for both were procured at home. The neighbouring blacksmith made the axes, logjTjinf^-chains and tools. He ironed the waggons and sleighs, and received his pay from the cellar and barn. Almost every farmer had his work-bench and carpenter's tools, which he could han- dle to advantage, as well as a shoemaker's bench ; and during the long evenings of the fall and winter would devote some of his time to mending boots or repairing harness. Sometimes the old log-house was turned into a blacksmith shoj:). This was the case with the first home of my grandfather, and his seven sons could turn their hands to any trade, and do pretty good work. If the men's clothes were not made l)y a member of the household, they were made in the house by a sew- ing girl, or a roving tailor, and the boots and shoes were made by cobblers of the same itinerant stripe. Many of the productions of the farm were unsaleable, owing to the want of large towns for a market. Trade, such as then existed, was carried on mostly by a system 106 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA of barter. The refuse apples from the orchard were turned into cider and vinegar for the table. The skins of the cattle, calves and sheep that were slaughtered for the wants of the family, were taken to the tan- ners, who dressed them, and returned half of each hide. The currency of the day was flour, pork and potash. The first two were in demand for the lum- bermen's shanties, and the last went to Montreal for export. The ashes from the house and the log-heaps were either leached at home, and the lye boiled down in the large potash kettl(;s — of which almost every farmer had one or two — and converted into potash, or became a perquisite of the wife, and were carried to the ashery, where they were exchanged for crockery or something for the house. Wood, save the large oak and pine timber, was valueless, and was cut down and burned to get it out of the way. I am enabled to give a list of prices current at that time of a number of things, from a domestic account- book, and an auction sale of my grandfather's personal estate, after his death in 1829. The term in use for an auction then was vendue. . 1830. 1880. A good horse $80 00 $120 00 Yoke of oxen 75 00 100 00 Milch cow 10 00 30 00 FIFTY YEARS AGO. 107 , • 1830. 1880. . . . .$ 2 00 $ 5 00 t'r 200 500 t^^"'^-; 7 00 12 00 ^^'C^'^'Z .-15 00 12 00 ^f'P^^'^\ 3 00 3 00 Flour, per cwt „ / 3 50 6 00 Beef I - -rt , , ,. 3 00 6 00 Mutton II ■■• ^ -„ ^ 1 50 ...!..... 1 00 80 ^^."'!."'".!! 40 " .^ 100 108 T, ".'..". 70 85 l^\ 50 100 ^^'^'^ " 40 70 ^T .:.:;:;. 37 30 Oats II ^„ .,„ 40 35 Potatoes II _„ ^ , 50 50 Apples II 25 Butter, per pound Cheese " " T 1 5 1-5 ^^'^' '' .. 10 25 EKgs.perdo.en ^ ^^ Wood, per cord Turkeys, each Ducks, per pair . . . Geese, each Chickens, per pair. Wheat, per bushel 1 00 1 00 80 50 Calf skins, each Sheep skins, each West India molasses m, 1 ... 80 60 Tea, per pound „ , 25 50 Tobacco „ 10 25 Honey . , . SO 40 Oysters, per quart Men's strong boots, per pair 3 00 Port wine, per gallon 80 T, , 1 50 4 00 Brandy h „ ^„ „ 100 3 00 ,,„ . , 40 1 40 Whisky II Grey cotton, per yard 1'' ^, ,. „ 20 12 Calico " •• . J 14 4 Nails, per pound 108 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA Vegetables were unsaleable, and so were many otlier things for which the farmer nov/- finds a"^ ready market. The wages paid to a man were from eight to ten dollars, and a girl from two to three dollars, per month. For a day's work, except in harvest time, from fifty to seventy-five cents was the ordinary rate. Money was reckoned by £. s. d. Halifax cnrrcncy, to distinguish it from the pound sterling. The former was e(}ual to $4.00, and the latter, as now, to S4.87. CJocks were not common. It is true, in most of the better class of old homes a stately old time-piece, whose face nearly reached the ceiling, stood in the hall or sittinix-room, and measured off the hours with slow and steady beat. But the most common time-piece was a line cut in the floor, and when the sun touched his meridian height his rays were cast along this mark throuoh a crack in the door; and thus the hour of noon was made known. A few years later the irre- pressible Yankee invaded the country with his wooden clocks, and supplied the want. My father bought one which is still in existence (though I think it has got past keeping time), and paid ten pounds for it ; a bet- ter one can be had now for as many shillings. 1AQ FIFTY YEAUS AGO. *"" The kitchen door, which, as I have aheady men- tioneJ, was very often divided in>e, middle, so that the upper part could be opened and the lower half kept closed, was the general entrance to the house, and was usually provided with a wooden latch, which was lifted from the outside by a leather string put through the door. At night, when the ta.uily retired, the string was pulled in and the door was fastened a..ainst any one from the outside. From this origin- ated the saying that a friend would always find the string on the latch. Carriages were not kept, for the simple reason that the farmer seldom had occasion to use them. He rarely ^vent from home, and when he did he mounted his horse or drove in his lumber-waggon to market or to meeting. He usually had one or two waggon-chairs, as the/were called, which would hold two persons very comfortably. These were put in the waggon and a buffalo skin thrown over them, and then the vehicle was equipped for the Sunday drive. There was a light waggon kept for the old people to drive about in, the box If which rested on the axles. The seat, how- ever, was secured to wooden springs, which made it somewhat more comfortable to ride in. A specimen of no COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA this kind of carriage was shown by the York Pioneers at the Industrial Exhibition in this city. I have a clear recollection of the most common carriage kept in those days, and of my first ride in one. I was so delighted that I have never forgotten it. One Saturday after- noon, my father and mother determined to visit Grand- father C , some six miles distant. We were made ready — that is to say, my sister and self — and the " yoke " was put to. Our carriage had but two wheels, the most fashionable mode then, and no steel springs ; neither was the body hung upon straps. There was no cover to the seat, which was unique in its way, and original in its get-up. Neither was there a well-padded cushion to sit on, or a back to recline against. It was nothing more or less than a limber board placed across from one side of the box to the other. My father took his seat on the right, the place invariably accorded to the driver — we did not keep a coachman then — my mother and sister, the latter being an infant, sat on the opposite side, while I was wedged in the middle to keep me from tumbling out. My father held in his hand a long slender whip (commonly called a " gad ") of blue beech, with which he touched the off-side animal, and said, " Haw Buck, gee-'long." The " yoke " FIFTY YEARS AGO. HI obeyed, and brought us safely to our journey's end in the course of time. Many and many a pleasant ride have I had since in far more sumptuous vehicles, but none of them has left such a distinct and pleasing recollection. The houses were almost invariably inclosed with a picket or board fence, with a small yard in front. Shade and ornamental trees were not in much repute. All around lay the " boundless contiguity of shade ; " but it awakened no poetic sentiment. To them it had been a standing menace, which had cost the expendi- ture of their best energies, year after year, to push further and further back. The time had not come for ornamenting their grounds and fields with shrubs and trees, unless they could minister to their comfort in a more substantial way. The gardens were generally well supplied with currant and gooseberry bushes. Pear, plum and cherry trees, as well as the orchard itself, were close at hand. Raspberries and strawberries were abundant in every new clearing. The sap-bush furnished the sugar and maple molasses. So that most of the requisites for good living were within easy hail. 112 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA The first concern of a thrifty farmer was to i)0S8e88 a large l)arn, with out-houses or sheds attached for liis hay and straw, and for the protection of his stock during the cold and stormy weather of fall and win- ter. Lumber cost him nothing, save the labour of getting it out. There was, therefore, but little to pre- . vent him froui having plenty of room in which to house his crops, and as the ])rocess of threshing was slow it necessitated more space than is required now. The granary, pig-pen and corn- crib were usually sep- arate. The number and extent of buildings on a flour- ishing homestead, inclosed with strong board fences, covered a wide area, but ^he barns, with their enor- mous peaked roofs, and the houses, with their dormer windows looking out from their steep sides, have nearly all disappeared, or have been transformed into more modern shape. It would be dirticult to find much resemblance be- tween the well-ordered house of the thriving farmer of to-day and that of half a century ago. In the first place the house itself is designed with an eye to convenience and comfort. There is more or less archi- te(3tural taste displayed in its external appearance. It is kept carefully painted. The yawning fireplace in FIFTY YEARS AGO. 113 the kitchen, with its row of pots, has disappeared, and in its place the most approved cooking-stove or range, with its multifarious appendages, is found. On the walls hang numberless appliances to aid in cook- ing. Washing-machines, wringers, improved churns, and many other labour saving arrangements render the task of the house-wife comparatively easy, and enable her to accomplish much more work in a shorter time than the dear old grandmother ever dreamed of in the highest Hights of her imagination. Her cu])boards are filled with china and earthenware of the latest pattern. Pewter plates and buck -handled knives have vanished, and ivory-handled cutlery has taken their places. Britannia nietal and pewter si)Oons have been sent to the melting-pot, and iron forks have given place to nickel and silver ones. The old fur- niture has found its way to the garret, and the house is furnished from the ware-rooms of the best makers. Fancy carpets cover the floor of every room. The old high-posted bedsteads, which almost required a ladder to get into, went to the lumber heap long ago, and low, sumptuous couches take their places. The great feather tick has been converted into the more healthy mattress, and the straw tick an(J cords have H 114 COUNTRY LIFE TN CANADA been replaced by spring bottoms. It used to be quite an arduous undertaking, I remember, to put up one of those old beds. One person took a wrench, kept for that purpose, and drew up the cord with it as tight as he could at every hole, and another followed with a hammer and pin, which was driven into the hole through whicii the end passed to hold it ; and so you went on round the bed, until the cord was all drawn as tight as it could possibly be. Now a bedstead can be taken down and put up in a few moments by one person witli the greatest ease. The dresses of boih mother and daughters are made according to the latest styles, and of the best material. The family ride in their carriage, with fine horses, and richly-plated har- ness. The boys are sent to college, and the girls are polished in city boarding-schools. On the farm the change is no less marked. The grain is cut and bound with reaping machines, the grass with mowing ma- chines, and raked with horse rakes. Threshing ma- chines thresh and clean the grain. The fanner has machines for planting and sowing. The hoe is laid aside, and his corn and root crops are kept clean witli cultivators. His i)luughs and drags do better work with more easj to himself and his team. He has dis- , FIFTY YEARS AGO. 115 covered that he can keep improved stock^at less ex- pense, and nt far <^a'cater profit. In fact, the whole system of farming and farm labour has iiJvanced with the same rapid strides that everything oho has done ; and now one man can accomplish more in the same time, and do it hotter, than half a dozen could fifty years ago. Musical instruments wore almost unknown except by name. A stray fiddler, as I have said elsewhere, was aliout the only musician that ever delighted the ear of young or old in those days. I do not know that there was a piano in the Province. If there were any their number was so small that they could have been counted 'on the fingers of one ho,nd. Now, every house in the land with any pretension to the ordinary com- forts of life has either a piano or a melodeon, and every farmer's daughter of any position can run over the keys with as nuich ea^e and eftect as a city belle. Passing along one of our streets not long since, I heard some one ])laying in a room adjoining a little grocery store. My attention was arrested by the skill of the player, and the fine tone of the instrument. While I was listening, a couple of ladies pas^scd, one of whom said, " I do wonder if they have got a piano here." " Why IIG COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA not," said the other, " the pea-nut-man on Street has one, and I don't see why every one else shouldn't have." I think all who have marked the changes that have taken place during the half century which is gone, will admit that we are a much faster people than our fathers were. We have jumped from change to change ' with marvellous rapidity. We could never endure the patient plodding way they travelled, nor the toil and privation they went through ; and it is a good thing for us, jierhaps, that they preceded us. Would it not be well for us occasionally to step aside from the bustle and haste which surrounds us, and look back. There are many valuable lessons to be gathered from the pages of the past, and it might be well, perhaps, were we to temper our anxiety to rise in the social scale with some of the sterling qualities that characterized our progenitors. Our smart boys now-a-days are far too clever to pursue the paths which their fathers trod, and in too many cases ])ecr\i\ the career of life as second oi- third-rate professional men or merchants, while our daughters are too frecpicntly turned into ornaments for the parlour. We know that fifty years ago the boys had to work early and late. West of England bro'idcloths and fine FIFTY YEARS AGO. 117 French fabrics were things tiiat rarely, indeed, adorned their persons. Fashionable tailors and young gentle- )nen, according to the present acceptation of the term, are comparatively modern institutions in Canada. Fancy for a moment one of our young swells, with his fashionable suit, gold watch, chain, and rings, patent leather boots and kid gloves, and topped off with Christie's latest headgear, driving up to grandfather's door in a covered buggy and plated harness, fifty years ago! What would have been said, think you? My im|)ression is that his astonishment would have been too great to find expression. The old man, no doubt, would have scratched his head in utter bewilderment, and the old lady would have pushed up her specs in order to take in the whole of the new revelation, and possibly might have exclaimed, " Did you ever see the beat?" The girls, T have no doubt, would have responded to tlieir mother's ejaeuUition ; and the boys, if at hand, would have laughed outright. My remarks, so far, have been confined altogether to the country settlements, and fifty years ago that was about all there was in this Province. Kinsfston was* in fact, the only town. The other places, which have far outstripped it since, were only commencing, as we 118 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA shall see presently. Kingston was a place of consider- able importance, owing to its being a garrison town ; and its position at the foot of lake navigation gave promise of future greatness. The ditterence between town and country life as yet was not very marked, except with the few officers and officials. Clothes of finer and more expensive materials were worn, and a little more polish and refinement were noticeable. The professional man's office was in his house, and the merchant lived over his store. He dealt in all kinds of goods, and served his customers early and late. He bartered with the people for their produce, and weighed up the butter and counted out the eggs, for which he paid in groceries and dry goods. Now he has his house on a fashionable street, or a villa in the vicinity of the city, and is driven to his counting house in his carriage, His father, and himself, jjerhaps, in his boyhoorV traded in the summer time under a burning sua, and now ne and his]family take their vacation during hot weather at fashionable "i watering place3,l'or make a tour in Europe. We have but little to complain of as a people. ^Our progress during the last fifty years has ^,boen such as cannot but be gratifying to every Canadian, and if we FIFTY YEA.RS AGO. ' H^ * are only true to ourselves and the great principles that underlie real and permanent success, we should go on building up a yet greater and more substantial pros- perity, as the avenues of trade which are being opened up from time to time become available. But let us guard against the enervating influences which are too apt to follow increase of wealth. The desire to rise in the social scale is one that finds a response in every breast ; but it often happens that, as we ascend, habits and tastes are formed that are at variance not only with our own well-being, but with the well-being of tbose who may be influenced by us. One of the prin- cipal objects, it would seem, in making a fortune ir these days, is to make a show. There are not many families in this Province, so far, fortunately, whose children can aff'ord to lead a life of idleness. Indeed, if the truth must be told, the richest heir in our land cannot afford it. Still, when children are born with silver spoons in their mouths, the necessity to work is removed, and it requires some impulse to work when there is no actual need. But, fortunately, there are higher motives in this world than a life of inglorious ease. Wealth can give much, but it cannot make a man in the proper and higher sense, any more than 120 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA iron can be transmuted into gold. It is a sad thing, I think, to find many of our wealthy farmers bringing up their children with the idea that a farmer is not as respectable as a counter-jumper in a city or village, store, or that the kitchen is too trying for the delicate organization of the daughter, and that her vocation is to adorn the drawing-room, to be waited on by mamma, and to make a brilliant match. Fifty years ago. 121 CHAPTER V. jjjfferson's definition of «' liberty "-how it was acted UPON- THE CANADIAN RENAISSANCE — BURNING POLITICAL QUESTIONS IN CANADA HALF A CENTURY AGO-LOCOMOTION— MRS. JAMESON ON CANADIAN STAGE COACHES-BATTEAUX AND DURHAM BOATS. THE American Revolution developed two strik- ing pictures of the inconsistency of human nature. The author of the Declaration of Independence lays down at the very first this axiom : " We hold this truth to be self-evident, that all men are created equal; that among these, are life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness." And yet this man, with numbers of others who signed the famous document, was a slave-holder, and contributed to the maintenance of a system which was a reproach and a stain upon the fair fame of the land, until it was wiped out with the blood of tens of thousands of its sons. The next picture that stands out in open contradiction to the declaration of equality of birth and liberty of action appears at the end of the war. The very men who had clamoured against oppression, and had fought for and won their freedom, 122 COUNTRY LIFK IN CANADA in turn became the most intolerant oppressors. The men who had dift'ered from them, and had adhered to the cause of the mother land, had their property con- fiscated, and we)'o expelled from the country. Revol- utions have ever been marked by cruelty. Liberty in France inaugurated the guillotine. The fathers of the American Revolution cast out their kindred, who found a refuge in the wilderness of Canada, where they endured for a time the most severe privations and hardships. This was the first illustration or defini- tion of " liberty and the pursuit of happiness, " from an American point of view. The result was not, perhaps, what was anticipated. The ten thousand or more of their expatriated countrj'^- men were not to be subdued by acts of despotic injus- tice. Their opinions were dear to them, and were as fondly cherished as were the opinions of those who had succeeded in wrenching away a part of the old Empire nndei* a plea of being oppressed. They claimed only the natural and sacred right of acting upon their honest convictions ; and surely no one will pre- tend to say that their position was not as just and tenable, or that it was less honourable than that of those who had )'ebelled. I am not going to say that FIFTY YEAHS AGO. 123 there was no cause of complaint on the part of those who threw down the gage of war. The truth about that matter has been conceded long ago. The enact- ments of the Home Government which brought about the revolt are matters with which we have nothing to do at this time. But when the war terminated and peace was declai-ed, the attitude of the new Govern- ment toward those of their countrymen who had ad- hered to the (31d Land from a sense of duty, was cruel, if not barbarous. It has no parallel in modern history, unless it be the revocation of the Edict of Nantes by Louis XIV. The refugees, however, did not, like the Hufuenots, find a home in an old settled country, but in the fastness of a Canadian forest ; and it is wonder- ful that so many men and women, out of love for a distant land whose subjects they had been, and whose cause they had espoused, should have sacrificed every- thing, and passed from comfortable homes and dearly- loved kindred to desolation and poverty. It shows of what unbending material they were made. With their strong wills and stronger arms they laid the foundation of another country that yet may rival the land whence they were driven. This act no doubt occasioned the settlement of the Western Province 124 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA. many years earlier than it would have occurred under other circumstances ; and notwitlistanding the attempts that were made to subdue the country, our fathers proved, when the struggle came, that they had lost none of their patriotic fire, and though they were comparatively few in number, they were not slow to shoulder their muskets and march away in defence of the land of their adoption. There were no difier- ences of opinion on this point. A people who had first been robbed of their worldly goods and then driven from the homes of their youth, were not likely soon to forget either their wrongs or their sufferings, nor to give up, without a struggle, the new homes they had made for themselves under the keenest privations and severest toils. As our fathers successfully resisted the one, so have their children treated the threats and blandishments that have been used from time to time to bring them under the protecting tegis of the stars and stripes. The wounds that were inflicted nearly a century ago have happily cicatrized, and we can now look with admiration on the happy progress of the American people in all that goes to make up a great and prosperous country. We hope to live in peace ana unity with them. Still, we like our own country and FIFTY YEARS AGO. 125 its system of government Letter, and feel that we have no reason either to be discontented with its progress, or to doubt as to its future. The year 1880 may be taken as the commencement of a new order of things in Canada. The people were prosperous ; immigration was rapidly increasing. A system of Government had been inaugurated which, if not all that could be desired, was capable of being moulded into a shape fit to meet the wants of a young and growing country. There were laws to protect society, encourage education, and foster trade and commerce. The application of steam in Eng- land and the United States, not only to manufactur- ing purposes bat to navigation, which had made some progress, rapi.lly increased after this date, and the illustration given by Stephenson, in September of this year, of its capabilities as a motor in land transit, com- pletely revolutionized the commerce of the world. It assailed every branch of industry, and in a few years transformed all. The inventive genius of mankind seemed to gather new energy. A clearer insight was obtained into the vast results opening out before it, and into the innumerable inventions which have succeeded ; for the more uniform and rapid production of almost 12G COUNTHY MFE TN CANADA every conceivable tiling used by man has had its origin in this Nineteenth Century Renaissance. Our Province, though i-cmote from this " new birth," could not but feel a touch of the pulsation that was stirring in the world, and, though but in its infancy, it was not backward in laying hold of these discoveries, and ap- plying them as far as its limited resources would admit. As early as 1810 we had a stoamer — the Fronvenac — runninrj on Lake Ontario, and others soon followed. The increase was much more rapid after the date referred to, and the improvement in construction and speed was equalh'- marke j :-..-'.. f^- «. ,. , -.,..^1. . The contrast we are enabled to present is wonderful in every respect. Since the parent college opened its doors to the anxious youths of the Province, five universities and the same number of colleges have come into existence. The faculties of these several ' institutions are presided over by men of learning and ^ ability. They are amply furnished with libraries, ■ apparatus aad all the modern requirements of first- class educational institutions. Their united rolls show an attendance of about l,oOO students last year. There a,re 10 Collegiate Institutes and 94 High Schools, with , FIFTY YEARS AGO. 107 an attendance of 12,130 pupils ; 5,147 Public Schools, with 494,424 enrolled scholars ; and the total receipts . for school purposes amounted to $3,220,730. Besides « these, there are three Ladies' Colleges, and several other important educational establishments devoted entirely v to the education of females, together with private and - select schools in almost every city and town in the \'- Province, many of which stand very high in public ■. estimation. There are two Normal Schools for the training of teachers. The one in Toronto has been in existence for 29 years, and is so well known that it is unnecessary for me to attempt any description of it. The total number of admissions since its foundation have been 8,269. The Ottawa school, which has been in operation about two years, has admitted 433. Three other important educational institutions have been established by the Government in different parts of the Province. The Deaf and Dumb Institute at Belle- ville is pleasantly situated on the shore of the Bay of Quints, a little west of the city. The number in . attendance is 269, and the cost of maintenance for the past year $38,589. The Institute for the Blind at Brantford numbera 200 inmates, and the annual expen- diture is about $30,000. These institutions, erected at 1 68 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA a very large outlay, are admirably equipped, and under the best management, and prove a great boon to the unfortunate classes for whom they were established. The Agricultural College at Guelph, for the training of young men in scientific and practical husbandry, though in its infancy, is a step in the right direction, and must exercise a beneficial influence upon the agricultural interests of the country. Of medical corporations and schools, there are the Council of the College of Physicians and Surgeons of Ontario ; the Faculty of the Toronto School of Medicine ; Trinity Medical School ; Royal College of Physicians and Surgeons ; Canada Medical Association ; Ontario College of Phar- macy ; Royal College of Dental Surgeons ; and Ontario Veterinary College. There is also a School of Practical Science, now in its fourth year. This, though not a complete list of the educational institutions and schools of the Province, will nevertheless give a pretty correct idea of the progress made during the fifty years that are gone. ,,t- . .-. +v -- .-,.. ..■••v '^ The accommodation furnished by the school sections throughout the country has kept pace with the pro- I gress of the times. As a rule the school-houses are ^ commodious, and are built with an eye to the health FIFTY YEARS AGO. ' 169 and comfoi't of the pupils. The old pine benches and (Jesks have disappeared before the march of improve- ment — my recollection of them is anything but agree- able — and the school-rooms are furnished with com- fortable seats and desks combined. The children are no longer crowded together in small, unventilated rooms. Blackboards, maps and apparatus are furnished to all schools. Trained teachers only are employed, and a uniform course of study is pursued, so that each Public School is a stepping-stone to the High School, and upward to the College or University. Great attention has been paid by the Education Depart- ment to the selection of a uniform series of text books throughout the course, adapted to the age and intelligence of the scholars ; and if any fault can be found with it, I think it should be in the number. The variety required in a full course — even of English study — is a serious matter. The authorities, however, have laboured earnestly to remove every difficulty that lies in the student's path, and to make the way attrac- '' tive and easy. That they have succeeded to a very great extent is evident from the highlj'- satisfactory report recently presented by the Minister of Education. With the increasing desire for a better education, there 170 COUNTRY LIFE TN CANADA seems to be a growing tendency on the part of young men to avail themselves of such aids as shall push them towards the object in view with the smallest amount of work ; and instead of applying themselves with energy and determination to overcome the difficulties that face them in various branches of study, they resort to the keys that may be had in any bookstore. It is needless to repeat what experience has proved in thousands of instances, that the young man who goes through his mathematical course by the aid of these, or through his classical studies by the use of trans- lations, will never make a scholar. Permanent success in any department of life depends on earnest work, and the more arduous the toil to secure an object, so much the more is it prized when won. Furthermore, it is certain to prove more lasting and beneficial. The same causes that hindered the progress of educa- tion also retarded the advance of religion. The first years of a settler's life are years of unremitting toil ; a struggle, in fact, for existence. Yet, though settlers had now in a measure overcome their greater difficul- ties, the one absorbing thought that had ground its way into the very marrow of their life still pressed its Qla,ims upon their attention. The paramount questiou r- FIFTY YEARS AGO. • 171 with them had been how to get on in the world. They were cut off, too, from all the amenities of society, and were scattered over a new country, ^t^hich, prior to their coming, had been the home of the Indian — where al 1 the requiiements of civilization had to be planted and cultivated anew. They had but barely reached a point when really much attention could be devoted to anything but the very practical aim of gaining their daily bread. It will readily be admitted that there is no condition in life that can afford to put away relig- ious instruction, and there is no doubt that the people at first missed these privileges, and often thought of the time when they visited God's House with regular- ity. But the toil and moil of years had worn away these recollections, and weakened the desire for sacred things. There can be no doubt that prior to, and even up to 1830, the religious sentiment of the greater por- tion of the people was anything but strong. The Methodists were among the first, if not actually the first, to enter the field and call them back to the alle- giance they owed to the God who had blessed and pro tected them.* Colonels Neal and McCarty began to * Dr. Stuart, of Kingston, Church of England, was the first minister in Upper Canada ; Mr. Langworth, of the same denomination, in Bath ; and Mr. Scamerhom, Lutheran minister at WiUiauasburgb, next, 172 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA preach in 1788, but the latter was hunted out of the * country.* Three years later, itinerant preachers began their work and gathered hearers, and made converts in ; every settlement. But these men, the most of whom came from the United States, were looked upon with suspicion -f* by many who did not fall in with their religious views; and it is not surprising that some ■ even went so far as to petition the Legislature to pass an Act which should prevent their coming into the country to preach. It was said, and truly, when the ^' matter about this was placed before the Government, that the connection existing between the Methodist Episcopal Church of the United States and Canada * Playter. t I have in my posRession an old manuscript book, written by my grandfather in 179G, in which this point is brought out. Being a Quaker, he naturally did not approve of the way those early preachers conducted services. Yet he would not be likely to exaggerate what came under his notice. This is what he says of one he heard: "I thought he exerted every nerve by the various positioi^s in which he placed himself to cry, stamp and smite, often turning from exhortation to prayer. Entreating the Almighty to thunder, or rather to enable him to do it. Also, to smite with the sword, and to use many destroying weapons, at which my mind was led from the more proper buoiness of worship or devotion to observe what appeared to me inconsistent with that quietude that be- cometh a messenger sent from the meek Jesus to declare the glad tidings " of the gospel. If I compared the season to a shnwer, as has heretofore been done, it had only the appearance of a tempest of thunder, wind and UaUi destiljute of the s\yeet r^fresbin^ drops of a gospel ohower," . ' . '. Mr. Vanest says : " In summer we crossed ferries, and in winter we rode much on ice. Our appointment was thirty-four miles distant, without any stopping-place. Most of the way was through the Indian's land — other- wise called the Mohawk Woods. In summer I used to stop half-way in the woods and turn my horse out where the Indians had had their fires. In winter I would take some oats in my saddle-bags, and make a place ill the snow to feed my horse. In many places there were trees fallen across the path, which made it difficult to get around in deep snow. I would ask the Indians why they did not cut out the trees. One said, 'Indian like deer; when he no cross under, he jump over.' There was seldom any travelling that way, which made it bad in deep snow. At one time when the snow was deep, I went on the ice till I could see clear water, so I thought it time to go ashore. I got off my horse and led him, and the ice cracked at every step. If I had broken 'through, there would have been nothing but death for us both. I got to the woods in dee|) snow, and travelled up the shore till I found a small house, when I found the course of my path, keeping a good look-out for the marked trees. I at last found my appointment about seven o'clock. If I had missed my path I do not know what would have become of me. At my stopping-place the family had no bread or meal to make any of, till they borrowed some of a neighbour ; so I got my dinner and supper about eleven o'clockon Saturday night. On Sabbath 1 preached. On Monday I rode about four miles, crossed the Bay (Quint^), and then rode seventeen miles through the ITC ^ COUl IBV LirB IN CANADA woods without seeing a house, preached and met a class for a day's work." ii Another writer says : " We had to go twenty miles without seeing a house, and were guided by marked treeSI there being no roads. At one time my colleague was lost in getting through the woods, when the wolves began to howl around him, and the poor man felt much alarmed ; but he got through unhurt." * . These incidents occurred some years before the date of which I speak, but the same kind of adventures were happening still. It did not take long to get away from the three or four concessions that stretched along the bay and lakes, and outside of civilization. I remember going with my father and mother, about 1835, on a visit to an uncle who had settled in the bush, -f- just ten miles away, and in that distance we travelled a wood road for more, than five miles. The snow was deep and the day cold. We came out upon the clearing of a few acres, and drove up to the door of the small log house, the only one then to be seen. The tall trees which environed the few acres carved out of the heart of the bush waved their naked branches as if mocking at the attempt to put them *Dr. Carroll. tThis was in the oldest settled part of the Province— the Bay of Quints. FIFTY YEARS AGO. 177 away. The stumps thrust their heads up through the snow on every hand, and wore their winter caps with a jaunty look, as if they too did not intend to give up possession without a struggle. The horses were put in the log stable, and after warming our- selves we had supper, and then gathered round the cheerful fire. When bed-time came, we ascended to our sleeping room by a ladder, my father carrying me up in his arms. We had not been long in bed when a pack of wolves gathered round the place and began to bowl, making through all the night a most dismal and frightful noise. Sleep was out of the question, and for many a night after that I was haunted by packs of howling wolves. On our return the next da}' I expect- ed every moment to see them come dashing down upon us until we got clear of the woods. This neighbour- hood is now one of the finest in the Province, and for miles fine houses and spacious well-kept barns and out- houses are to be seen on every farm. I have been unable to get at any correct data re- specting the number of adherents of the various denominations in the Province for the year 1830. The , total number of ministers did not reach 150, while they 178 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA now exceed 2,500.* There were but three churches in Toronto, then called York. One of these was an Episco- palian Church, occupying the present site of St. James's Cathedral. It was a plain wooden structure, 50 by 40, with its gables facing east and west ; the entrance being by a single door off Church Street, f The others were a Presbyterian and a Methodist church. The latter was built in 1818, and wa^, a long, low building, 40 by GO. In the gable end, facing King Street, were two doors, one for each sex, the men occupying the right and the women the left side of the room. It was warmed in winter by a rudely constructed sheet-iron stove. The usual mode of ligliting it for night services was by tallow candles placed in sconces along the walls, and in candlesticks in the pulpit. I am sure I shall be safe in saying that there were not 150 churches or chapels all told in the Province.. All of them were small, and many of them were of the most humble char- acter. There are probably as many clergymen and more than half as many churches in Toronto now, as there * I he number of ministers, as given in the Journals of the House of Assembly for 1831, are 57 Methodist, 40 Baptist, 14 Presbyterian, and 32 Church of England. Por the last I am indebted tu Dr. Scadding. "" ..' ;.;;.. ';.! ;; : ' t Toronto of Old, FIFTY YEAB8 AGO. 179 were in all Upper Canada fifty years ago. The differ- ence doeH not consist in the number of the latter alone« but in tlie size and cliaracter of the .structures. The beautiful and conuuodious churche.i, with their lofty spires and richly arranged interiors, that meet the gaze on every hand in Toronto, have not inappropriately given it the proud title of " the city of churches," and there are several of them, any one of which would com- fortably seat the entire population of York in the days of which I have spoken. There were no organs, and I am not sure that there were any in America. Indeed, if there had been, the good people of those days would have objected to their use Those who remember the three early churches I have mentioned — and those who do not can readily picture them with their fittings and seating capacity — will recall the dim, lurid light cast on the audience by the flickering candles. Turn, now, for example, to the Metropolitan Church on an evening's service. Notice the long carpeted aisles, the rich upholstery, the comfortable seats, the lofty ceilings, the spacious gallery and the vast congregation. An unseen hand touches an electric battery, and in a moment hundreds of gas jets are aflame, and the place is filled with a blaze of light. " Now the great organ heaves 180 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA its thrilling thunders, compressing air into music, and rolling it forth upon the soul." Surely the contrast is almost incredible, and what we have said on this point in regard to Toronto may be said of every city, town, village or country place in the Province. It will be proper to notice here that from the settle- ment of the country up to 1831, marriage could only be legally solemnized by a minister of the Church of England, or of the established Church of Scotland. There was a provision which empowered a justice of the peace or a commanding officer to perform the rite in cases where there was no minister, or where the parties lived eighteen miles from a church. In 1831, an Act was passed making it lawful for ministers of other denominations to solemnize matrimony, and to confirm marriages previously contracted. This act of tardy justice gave great satisfaction to the people. The day for cheap books, periodicals and newspapers had not then arrived. There were but few of any kind in the country, and those that were to be found possessed few attractions for either old or young. The arduous lives led by the people precluded ulie cultiva- tion of a tsistc for reading. Persons who toil early and late, week in and week out, have very little ipIFTY YEARS AGO. ^ 181 inclination for anything in the way of literary re- creation. When the night came, the weary body demanded rest, and people sought their beds early. Consequently the few old volumes piled away on a shelf remained there undisturbed. Bacon says : " Some books are to be tasted, others to be swallowed, and some to be chewed and digested ;" and he might have added — " others still to be left alone." At all events the last was the prevailing sentiment in those days. I do not know that the fault was altogether with the books. It is true that those generally to be see.ii were either doctrinal works, or what might be termed heavy reading, requiring a good appetite and strong digestive powers to get through with them. They were the relics of a past age, survivors of obsolete controversies that had found their way into the coun- try in its infancy ; and though the age that delighted in such mental pabulum had passed away, these literary pioneers held their ground because the time had not arrived for the peoi)le to feel the necessity of cultivating the mind as well as providing for the wants of the body. Seneca says : " Leisure without books is the sepulchre of the living soul;" but books without leisure are practically valueless, and hence it l82 COUNTRY LI^E IN CANADA made but little diffevence with our grandfathers what the few they possessed contained.* Some years had to pass away before the need of them began to be felt. In a country, as we have already said, where intelli- gence commanded respect but did not give priority ; where the best accomplishment was to get on in the world ; where the standard of education seldom rose higher than to be able to read, write, and solve a siuiple sum in arithmetic, the absence of entertaining and instructive books was not felt to be a serious loss. But with the rapidly increasing facilities for moving about, and the growth of trade and commerce, the •From an inventory of my grandfather's personal effects I am enabled to give what would have been considered a large collection of books in those days. As I have said before, he was a Quaker, which will account for the character of a number of the books ; and by changing these to volumes in accord with the religious tenets of the owner, the reader will get a very good idea of the kind of literature to be found in the houses of intelligent and well-to-do people :— 1 large Bible, 3 Clarkson's works, 1 Buchan's Domestic Medicine, 1 Elliot's Medical Pocket Book, 1 Lewis's Dispensatory, 1 Franklin's Sermons, 1 Stackhouse'a History of the Bible, 2 Brown's Union Gazetteer, 1 16th Report of the British and Foreign Bible Society, 1 History United States, 1 Elias Hicka's Ser- mons, 2 Newton's Letters, 1 Ricketson on Health, 1 Jessy Kerzey, 1 Memorials of a Deceased Friend, 1 Hervey's Meditations, 1 Reply to Hibard, 1 Job's Scot's Journal, 1 Barclay on Church Government, 1 M. 1 iver on Shakerism, 1 Works of Dr. Franklin, 1 Journal of Richard Davis, 1 Lessons from Scripture, 1 Picket's Lessons, 1 Pownal, 1 Sequel to English Reader, Maps of United States, State of New York, Eng- land, Ireland and Scotland, and Holland Purchase. . , ' •:;,,*»,>. FIFTY YEARS AGO. 183 people were brought more frequently into contact with the intelligence and the progress of the world outside. And with the increase of wealth came the desire to take a higher stand in the social scale. The development of men's minds under the political and social changes of the day, and the advance in culture and refinement which accompanies worldly prosperity, quickened the general intelligence of the people, and created a demand for books to read. This demand has gone on increasing from year to year, until we have reached a time when we may say with the Ecclesiast : " Of making of books there is no end." If there was an excuse for the absence of books in our Can- » adian homes half a century ago, and if the slight draughts that were obtainable at the only fountains of knowledge that then existed were not sufficient to create a thirst for more, there is none now. Even the wealth that was to a certain extent necessary to gratify any desire to cultivate the mind is no longer required, for the one can be obtained free, and a few cents will procure the works of some of the best authors who have ever lived. But little had been done up to 1830 to establish libraries, either in town or village. Indeed the limited 184 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA number of these, and the pursuits of the people, which were almost exclusively agricultural — and that too in a new country where during half of the year the toil of the field, and clearing away the bush the remaining half, occupied their constant attention — books were seldom thought of. Still, there was a mind here and there scattered through the settlements which, like the " little leaven," continued to work on silently, until a large portion of the " lump " had been leavened. The only public libraries whereof I have any trace were at Kingston, Ernesttown and Hallowell. The first two were in existence in 1811-13, and the last was established somewhere about 1821. In 1824, the Government voted a sum of £150, to be expended annually in the purchase of books and tracts, designed to afford moral and religious instruction to the people. These were to be equally distributed throughout all the Districts of the Province. It can readily be con- ceived that this small sum, however well intended, when invested in books at the prices which obtained at that time, and distributed over the Province, would be so limited as to be hardly worthy of notice. Eight years prior to this, a sum of £800 was granted to establish a Parliamentery Library. From these smal J-IPTY YEARS AGO.' l8o Ibeginnings we have gone on increasing until we have reached a point which warrants me, I think, in saying that no other country with the same population is better supplied with the best literatiire of the day than our own Province. Independent of the libraries in the various colleges and other educational institutions, Sunday schools and private libraries, there are in the Province 1,5 CO Free Public Libraries, with 298,743 vol- umes, valued at $178,282, and the grand total of books distributed by the Educational Department to Mechan- ics' Institutes, Sunday school libraries, and as prizes, is 1,398,140.* There are also upwards of one hundred incorporated Mechanics' Institutes, with 130,000 vol- umes, a net income of .S59,928, and a membership of 10,785. These, according to the last Report, received legislative grants to the amount of $22,885 for the year 1879 — an appropration that in itself creditably attests the financial and intellectual progress of the Province.*}" It is a very great pity that a systematic effort had not been made years ago to collect interesting inci- *TTie number of volumes in the principal libraries are, as nearly as I can ascertain, aa follows :— Parliamentary Library, Ottawa, 100,000 Parliamentary Library, Ontario, 17,000 ; Toronto University, 23,000 Trinity College, 5,000 ; Knox College, 10,000 ; Osgoode Hall, 20,000 Normal School, 15,000; Canadian Institute, 3,800. ■ .* >- ■•' ' tReport of the Minister of Education, 1879. '<' \HC) country life in CANADA dents connected with the early settlement of the Province. A vast amount of information that would be invaluable to the future compiler of the history of this part of the Dominion has been irretrievably lost. The actors who were present at the birth of the Pro- vince are gone, and many of the records have perished. But even now, if the Government would interest itself, much valuable material scattered through the country might be recovere J. The Americans have been always alive to this subject, and are constantly gathering up all they can procure relating to the early days of their country. More than that, they are securing early re- cords and rare books on Canada wherever they can find them. Any one who has had occasion to hunt up information respecting this Province, even fifty years ago, knows the difficulty, and even impossibility in some cases, of procuring what one wants. It is hardly credible that the important and enterprising capital city of Toronto, with its numerous educational and professional institutions, is without a free public library in keeping with its other advantages.* This is a serious want to the well-being of our intellectual and moral * This want has since been supplied by an excellent Free Public Library. ,..*' ^ . t-I^-TY YEARS AGO. 187 nature. The benefits conferred by free access to a large collection of standard books is incalculable, and certainly if there is such a thing as retributive justice, it is about time it showed its hand. The first printing office in tne Province was estab- lished by Louis Roy, in April, 1793,* at Newark (Ni- agara), and from it was issued the Upper Canada Gazette, or Artierican Oracle,f a formidable name for a sheet 15 in. X 9. It was an official organ and news- paper combined, and when a weekly journal of this size could furnish the current news of the day, and the Government notices as well, one looking at it by the light of the present day cannot help thinking that publishing a paper was up-hill work. Other journals were started, and, after running a brief course, ex- pired. When one remembers the tedious means of communication in a country almost without roads, and the difficulty of getting items of news, it does not seem strange that those early adventures were short-lived. But as time wore on, one after another succeeded in getting a foothold, and in finding its way into the home of the settler. They were invariably small, and * Mr. Bourinot, in his InteUcctuaZ Development of Canada, says, this was in 176;{, which is no doubt a typograi)hical error. ■ • f t Toronto of Old. . .. \;,.r l88 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA printed on coarse paper. Sometimes even tliis gave out, and the printer had to resort to blue wrapping paper in order to enable him to present his readers with the weekly literary feast. In 1830, the number had increased from the humble beginning in the then capital of Upper Canada, to twenty papers, and of these the following still survive : The Chronicle and News, oi Kingston, establishtni 1810; Brockville Re- corder, 1820 ; St. Catharines Journal, 1824 ; Chris- tian Guardian, 1829. There are now in Ontario 37 daily papers, 4 semi- weeklies, 1 tri- weekly, 282 week- lies, 27 monthlies, and 2 semi-monthlies, making a total of 353. The honour of establishinof the first daily paper belongs to the late Dr. Barker, cf Kingston, founder of the British Whig, in 1834. There is perhaps nothing that can give us a better idea of the progress the Province has made than a com- parison of the papers published now with those of 1830. The smallness of the sheets, and the meagreness of reading matter, the absence of advertisement*", except in a very limited way, and the typographical work> make us think that our fathers were a good-natured, easy-going kind of people, or they would never have put up with such apologies for newspapers. Dr. Scad- FIFTY YEARS AGO. 189 ding, in Toronto of Old, gives a number of interesting and amusing items respecting the " Early Press." He states that the whole of the editorial matter of the Gazette and Oracle, on the 2nd January, 1802, is the following : " The Printer presents his congratulatory compliments to his customers on the new year." If brevity is the soul of wit, this is a chef d'amvre. On another occasion the publisher apologises for the non- appearance of his paper by saying : " The Printer hav- ing been called to York last week upon business, is humbly tendered to his readers as an apology for the Gazette's not appearing." This was another entire edi- torial, and it certainly could not have taken the readeis lonj to get at the pith of it. What would be said over such an announcement in these days ? We have every reason to feel proud of the advance the Press has made, both in number and influence, in Ontario. The leading papers are ably conducted and liberally supported, and they will compare favourably with those of any country. Various causes have led to this result. The prosperous condition of the people, the increase of immigration, the springing up of railwjiy communication, the extension and perfecting of tele- graphy, and, more than all, the completeness and efR- 190 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA ciency of our school system throughout the Province, have worked changes nob to be mistaken. These are the sure indices of our progress and enlightenment ; the unerring registers that mark our advancement as a people. FIFTY YEARS AGO. 191 CHAPTER VII. BANKS — INSURANCE— MARINE — TELEQRAPH COMPANIES— A DMINI8> TRATION OF JUSTICE — MILUNO AND MANUFACTURES — RAPID ' INCREASE OF POPULATION IN CITIES AND TOWNtt — EXCEUPT8 FROM ANDREW PICKEN. r I iHE only bank in the Province in 1830 was the -■- Bank of Upper Canada, with a capital of £100,000. There are now nine chartered banks owned in Ontario, with a capital of $17,000,000, and there are seven banks owned, with one exception, in the Prov- ince of Quebec, having offices in all the principal towns. There are also numbers of private banks and loan companies, the latter representing a capital of over $20,000,000. This is a prolific gi-owth in half a century, and a satisfactory evidence of material success. Insurance has been the growth of the last fifty years. During the session of the House of Assembly in 1830, a bill was introduced to make some provision against accidents by fire. Since then the business has grown to immense proportions. According to the re- turns of the Dominion Government for the 31st De- 192 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA cember, 1879, the assets of Canadian Life, Fire, Ma- rine, Accident, and Guarantee Companies were $1(),34G 587. British, doin^' business in Canada, $(5,838,309. American, ditto, $1,G85,.599. Of Mutual Companies, there are 94 in Ontario, with a total income fur 1879 of $485,579, and an expenditure of $455,801.* Fifty years ago the revenue of Upper Canada was £112,1G6 i3.s. 4d. ; the amount of duty collected £0,283 198. The exports amounted to £1,555,404, and the imports to £1,502,914. There were twenty-seven ports of entry and thirty-one collectors of customs. From the last published official reports we learn that the revenue for Ontario in 1879 was $4,018,287, and that for the fiscal year ending June 30th, 1S80, the exports were $28,003,080, and imports $27,800,444 ; amount of duty collected, $5,080,570; also that there are fifty-six ports of entry and thirty-eight outposts, with seventy- three collectors. One of the most interesting features in the progress of Canada is the rapid growth of its marine. It is coiTectly stated to rank foui-th as to tonnage among the maritime powera of the woild, Tlie United States, ♦ Inspector of Infjurance Report, 1880, FIFTY YEARS AGO. 11>3 with its fifty-four millions of people and its immonso coast-line, exceeds us but by a very little, while in ocean steamers we are ahead. In fact, the Allan Line is one of the first in the world. This is something for a country with a population of only five-and-a-half millions to boast of, and it is not by any means the only thing. Wo have been spoken of as a people wanting enterprise — a good-natured, phlegmatic set — but it is a libel disproved by half a century's progress. We have successfully carried out some of the grandest enterprises on this continent. At Montreal we have the finest docks in America. Our canals are uneciualled ; our country is intersected by railroads; every town and village in the land is linked to its neighbour by telegraph wires, and we have probably more miles of both, according to population, than any other people. The inland position of the Province of Ontario, al- though having the chain of great lakes lying aloiig its southern border, never fostered a love for a sea-faiing life. This is easily accounted for by the pui-suits of the people, who as has been said before, were nearly al agriculturists. But the produce had to be moved, and the means were forthcoming to meet the necessities of the case. The gi-eat water-course which led to the 194 COUNTRY LIFE IN CAilADA seaports of Montreal and Quebec, owing to the rapids of the St. Lawrence, could only be navigated by the batteaux and Durham boats ; and the navigator, after overcoming these difficulties, and laying his course through the noble lake from which our Province takes its name, encountered the Falls of Niagara. This was a huge barrier across his path which he had no possible means of surmounting. When the town of Niagara was reached, vessels had to be discharged, and the freight carted round the falls to Chippawa. This was a tedious matter, and a great drawback to settlement in the wes- tern part of the Province. Early in the century, the Hon. William Hamilton Merritt conceived the plan of connecting Lakes Erie and Ontario by a canal, and succeeded in getting the Government to assume the project in^ 1824. It was a great work for a young country to undertake, but it was pushed on, and com- pleted in 1830. From that time to the present vessels have been enabled to pass from one lake to the other. This, with the Sault Ste. Marie canal, and those of the St. Lawrence, enables a vessel to pass from the head of Lake Superior to the ocean. The Rideau Canal, undertaken about the same time as the Welland Canal, was also completed in the same year. It was construe - ^l^t VEAfeS Ado. 1&6 ted principally for military purposes, though at one time a large amount of freight came up the Ottawa, and thence by this canal to Kingston. The St. Law- rence was the only channel for freight going east. All the rapids were navigable with the batteaux except the Lachine, and up to 1830 there was a line of these boats running from Belleville to Montreal.* Our canal system was completed fifty years ago, and all that has been done since has consisted of enlarging and keeping them in repair. The total number of miles of canal in the Province is 136. The number of vessels composing our marine in 1830 was 12 steamers and 110 sailing vessels, with a tonnage of 14,300 ; and it is worthy of remark that at that date the tonnage on the lakes was about equal to that of the *The reader may be interested in learning the amount of produce ship- ped from the Piovince in 1830, via the St. Lawrence, and the mode of its conveyance. It is certainly a marked contrast, not only to the present facilities for carrying freii,'ht, but to the amount of produce, etc., going east and coming west. Statement of produce imported into Lower Canada through the I'ort of Coteau du Lac, to December 30th, 1830,in 584 Durham boats and 731 batteaux ; 133,141 bis. Hour ; 2(3,084 bis. ashes ; 14,110 bis. pork; 1,627 bis. beef ; 4,881 bu'.. corn and rye ; 280,322 bus. wheat ; 1,875 bis. corn meal ; 245 bis. and 955 kegs lard ; 27 bis. and 858 kegs butter ; 263 bis. and 29 hds. tallow ; 625 bis. apples ; 216 bis. raw hides ; 148 hdp. and 361 kegs tobacco ; 1,021 casks and 3 hds. whiskey and spirits ; ?,(i;;(; hogs. (Quantity of merchandise brought to Upp er Canada in the same year, 8,244 tona — Journal of the House of Assembly, 1831. 196 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANADA United States. The number of steam vessels now owned by the Province is 385, with 657 * sailing vessels, having a total tonnage of 137,481, which at $30 per ton would make our shipping interest amount to $4,124,430. A great deal has been done these last few years to protect the sailor from disaster and loss. Independent of marine charts that give the soundings of all navi- gable waters, buoys mark the shoals and obstructions to the entrance of harbours or the windings of intricate channels ; and from dangerous rocks and bold head- lands, jutting out in the course of vessels, flash out through the storm and darkness of the long dreary night the brilliant lights, from the domes of the light- houses, warning the sailor to keep away. By a system of revolving and parti-coloured lights the mariner is enabled to tell wtere he is, and to lay his course so as to avoid the disaster that might otherwise overtake him. There are now 149 f lighthouses in the Ontario division. In 1830 there were only four. Another great boon to the mariners of the present day is the meteoro- logical service, by which he is warned of apjDroaching * Report Marino and Fisheries, 1P80. tib. PIFTT TEARS AGO. 197 storms. It is only by the aid of telegraphy that this discovery has been made practically available ; and the system has been so perfected that weather changes can be told twenty-four hours in advance, with almost positive certainty. We have fourteen drum stations, eight of which are on Lake Ontario, four on Lake Huron, and two on the Georgian Bay. The Montreal Telegraph Company, the tirst in Can- ada, was organized in 1847. It has 1,647 offices in the Dominion, 12,703 miles of poles, and 21,568 of wire. Number of messages for current year, 2,112,161 ; earnings, $550,840. The Dominion Company reports G08 offices, 5,112 miles of poles, and 11,501 of wire. — Number of messages, 734,522 ; gross earnings, .$229,- 994. This gives a total of 17,845 miles of telegraph, 2,282 offices, 2.846,623 messages, and gross earnings amounting to $780,834.* The administration of justice cost the Province in 1830, $23,600, and according to the latest official re- turns $274,013 — a very striking proof that our pro- pensity to litigate has kept pace with the increase of wealth and numbers. There were four Superior Court *Annual Report of M^ontreal and Dominion Telegraph Companies^ 1881, „;. ., .,-■ , ; ■•::':;, . ' ' / .[ 198 COUNTKY LIFE IN CANADA Judges, of whom the Hon. John Beverley Robinson was made Chief Justice in 18?9, at a salary of $6,000. The remaining judges received $3,600 each. Besides these there were eleven District Judges, and in consequence of the extent of country embraced in these sections, and the distance jurors and others had to travel, the Court of Sessions was held frequently in alternate places in the district. In the Midland District, this court was held in Kingston and Adolphustown. The latter place had been laid out for a town by some far- seeing individual, but in never even attained to the dignity of a village. There was, besides the court- house, a tavern, a foundry, a Church of England — one of the first in the Province — the old homestead of the Hagermans, near the wharf ; a small building occupied for a time by the father of Sir John A. Macdonald as a store, and where the future statesman romped in his youth, and four private residences close at hand. When the court was held there, which often lasted a week or more, judge, jury, lawyers and litigants had to be billeted around the neighbourhood. As a rule they fared pretty well, for the people in that section were well off, and there was rarely any charge for board. The courts comprised the Court of King's Bench, the. FIFTY YEARS AGO. 190 Quarter Sessions, and Court of Requests. The latter was similar to our Division Court, and was presided over by a commissioner or resident magistrate. The Quarter Sessions had control of nearly all municipal affairs, but when the Municipal Law came into force these matters passed into the hands of the County Councils. The machinery in connection with the ad- ministration of justice has been largely augmented, for, beside the additional courts, we have six Superior Court Judges, one Chancellor, two Vice- Chancellors, one Chief -Justice, three Queen's Bench, tliree Common Pleas, three Court of Appeal Judges, and tliirty-eight County Court Judges. The manufacturing interests of the Province in 1830 were very small indeed. I have been unable to put my hand on any trustv/orthy information respecting this matter at that time, but from my own recollection at a somewhat later period, I know that very little had been done to supply the people with even the most common articles in use. Everything was im- ported, save those things that were made at home. From the first grist mill, built below Kingston by the Government for the settlers — to which my grandfather carried his first few bushels of wheat in a qanoe down 200 COUNTTwF LIFE IN CANADA the Bay of Quintd, a distance of thirty -five miles — the mills in course of time increased to 303. They were small, and the greater proportion had but a single run of stones. The constant demand for lumber for build- ing purposes in every settlement necessitated the build- ing of saw-mills, and in each township, wherever there was a creek or stream upon which a sufficient head of water could be procured to give power, there was a rude mill, with its single upright saw. Getting out logs in the win'^er was a part of the regular programme of every farmer who had pine timber, and in spring, for a short time, the mill was kept going, and the lumber taken home. According to the returns made to the Government, there were 429 of these mills in the Prov- ince at that time.* There were also foundries where ploughs and other implements were made, and a few fulling mills, where the home-made flannel was con- verted into the thick coarse cloth known as full cloth, a warm and serviceable article, as many no doubt re- member. Carding machines, which had almost en- tirely relieved the housewife from using hand cards in making rolls, were also in existence. There were also breweries and distilleries, and a paper mill on the •Journals, House of Aesembly, 1831. i, ^ : ■ V , 'V; '■: FIFTY YEARS AGO. 201 Don, at York. This was about the sum total of our manufacturing enterprises at that date. There are now 508 grist and flour mills — not quite double the number, but owing to the great improve- ment in machinery the producing capacity has largely increased. Very few mills, at the present time, have fewer than two run of stones, and a great many have four, and even more, and the same may be said of the saw mills, of which there are 853. There are many in the Province capable of turning out nearly as umch lum- ber in twelve months as all the mills did fifty years ago. It is only within a few years that we have made much progress in manufactures of any kind. Whatever the hindrances were, judging from the numerous factories that are springing into existence all over the Dominion, they seem to have been removed, and capitalists are embarking their money in all kinds of manufacturing enterprises. There is no way, as far as I know, of get- ting at the value annually produced by our mills and factories, except from the Trade and Navigation Re- turns for 1880, and this only gives the exports, which are but a fraction of the grand total. Our woollen mills turned out last year upwards of $4,000,000,* of Monetary Times, December 17, 1881. 202 COUNT IIY LIFE IN CANADA which we exported $222,425. This does not include the produce of what are called custom mills. There are 224 foundries, 285 tanneries, 1G4 woollen mills, 74 carding and fulling mills, 137 cheese factories, 127 agricultural and implement factories, 92 breweries, 8 boot and shoe factories, 5 button factories, 1 barley mill, 2 carpet factories, 4 chemical works, 9 rope and twine factories, 9 cotton mills, 3 crockery kilns, 11 flax mills, 4 glass works, 11 glove factories, 7 glue factories, 9 hat factories, 12 knitting factories, 9 oat- meal mills, 9 organ factories, 10 piano factories, 25 paper mills, 4 rubber factories, 6 shoddy mills, 3 sugar refineries; making, with the flour and saw mills, 2,642. Besides these there are carriage, cabinet and other fac- tories and shops, to the number of 3,848. The value of flour exported was $1,547,910; of sawn lumber, $4,137,062; of cheese, $1,199,973; of flax, $95,292; of oatmeal, $215,131; and of other manufactures, $1,100,605. We may further illustrate the progress we have made by giving the estimated value of the trade in Toronto in 1880, taken from an interesting article on this subject which appeared in the Globe last January. The wholesale trade is placed at $30,650,000 ; produceJ^ FIFTY YEARS AGO. 203 $23,000,000 ; a few leading factories, $1,770,000 ; live stock, local timber trade, coal, distilling and brewing, $8,910,000 ; in all, $64,330,000— a gross sura more than ten times greater than the value of the trade of the whole Province fifty years ago. Another interesting feature in our growth is the rapid increase in the cities and towns. Some of these were not even laid out in 1830, and others hardly deserved the humble appellation of village. The dif- ference will be more apparent by giving the popula- tion, as far as possible, then and in 1881, when the last census was taken, of a number of the principal places : — *^ 1830. 1881. Toronto 1 2,860 86,445 Kingston 3,587 14,093 Hamilton, including tovmship 2,013 35,965 London, including township 2,415 Brantford, laid out in 1830 9,626 Guelph, including township 778 9,890 St. Catharines (Population in 1845, ,3,500)... Ottawa contained 150 houses Belleville, incorporated 1835 9,516 BrockviUe U30 7,608 Napanee (Population in 1845, 500) 3,681 Cobourg 4,957 PortHope 5,888 Peterboro', laid out in 1826 6,815 Lindsay, .. 1833 5,081 Barrie, " 1832 IngersoU, •. 1831.. 4,32^ 204 COUNTRY LIFE TN CANADA 1830. 1881. Wooilatock (Poinilfttion in 1845, 1,085) 5,373 Chatham, settled in 18:«) 7,881 Stratford, laid out in 1833 8,240 Sarnia, laid out in 1833 3,874 I hope the humble effort I have made to show what we Upper Canadians have done during the fifty years that are gone will induce some one better qualified to go over the same ground, and put it in a more attrac- tive and effective shape. It is a period in our history which must ever demand attention, and although our . Province had been settled for nearly half a century prior to 18o(), it was not until after that date that men of intelligence began to look around them, and take an active interoit in shaping the future of their country. There were many failures, but the practical sense of the people surmounted them, and pushed on. All were awake to the value of their heritage, and contributed their share to extend its influence ; and so we have gone on breasting manfully political, commercial and other difficulties, but always^' advancing ; and whatever may be said about the growth of other parts of A.merica, figures will show that Canada is to the front. At the Provincial Exhibition in Ottawa, in 1879, the Governor of Vermont, in his address, stated (what we already FIFTY YEARS AGO. ^05 knew), that Canada had outstripped the United States in rapidity of growth and development during recent years, and th^ Governors of Ohio and Maine endorsed the statement. We have a grand country, and I be- lieve a grand future. > , " Fair land of peace ! to Britain's rule and throne Adherent still, yet happier than alone, .j.. And free as happy, and as brave as free, Proud are thy children, justly proud of thee. Few are the years that have sufficed to change This whole broad land by transformation strange. Once far and wide the unbroken forests spread Their lonely waste, mysterious and dread — Forest, whose echoes never had been stirred By the sweet music of an English word ; ■ Where only rang the red-browed hunter's yell. And the wolf's howl through the dark sunless dell. Now fruitful fields and waving orchard trees Spread their rich treasures to the summer breeze. Yonder, in queenly pride, a city stands, Whence stately vessels speed to distant lands ; Here smiles a hamlet through embow'ring green, And there the statelier village spires are seen ; Here by the brook-side clacks the noisy mill, There the white homestead nestles on the hill ; The modest school-house here flings wide its door To smiling crowds that seek its simple lore ; There Learning's statelier fane of massive walls ' Wooes the young aspirant to classic halls, And bids him in her hoarded treasure find '< The gathered wealth of all earth's gifted minds. Pamela S. Vinino. 206 COUNTRY LIFE IN CANAbA Since writin i SKETCHES OF EARLY HISTORY.* EARLY SCHOOLS AND SCHOOLMASTERS— BIRTH OP THE AMERICAN REPUBLIC —LOVE OF COUNTRY — ADVENTURES OF A U. E. LOYAL- IST FAMILY NINETY YEARS AGO— THE WILDS OF UPPER CANADA — HAY BAY— HARDSHIPS OF PIONEER LIFE— GROWTH OF POPU- LATION — DIVISION OF THE CANADIAN PROVINCES— FORT FKON- TENAC— THE "DARK DAYS "—CELESTIAL FIREW0UX8— EARLY TEAM NAVIGATION IN CANADA— THE COUNTRY MERCHANT PROGRESS— THE HARE AND THE TORTOISE. A FTER having consented to read a paper on the -^-^ subject which has ah-eady been announced, I do not think it would be quite proper for me to begin , with apologies. That they are needed I confess at once, but then they should have been thought of be- * This paper was read before the Mechanics' Institute in Picton, twenty-six years ago. Soon afterwards, the then Superintendent of Education, Dr. Ryerson, requested me to send it to him, which I did, and a copy was taken of it. An extract will be found in his work, " The Loyalists of America," Vol. ii, page 219. Subsequently, in 1879, I made up two short papers from it which appeared in The \ I . Carutdmn Methodist Magazine. The paper is now Kiven, with a few ex- ceptions, as it was first written. ^14 SKETCHES OP RARLY HTSTORt. fore. How often have we heard the expression, " Cir- cumstances alter cases," and this is just why I put in my plea. If I had not been preceded by gentlemen whose ability and attainments are far and away be- yond mine, I should not have said a word. But when these persons, some of whom finished their education in British Universities, who have trodden the classic shores of Italy and mused over the magnificent monu- ments of her past greatness, or wandered through old German towns, where Christian liberty was born and cradled; who have ranged the spacious halls of Parisian Institutes, or sauntered in places where many historic scenes have been enacted in grand old England — when these persons, I repeat, must crave your indulgence, how much more earnestly should I plead, whose travels are bounded in the radius of a few hundred miles, and whose collegiate course began, and I may say ended, in the country school-house with which many of you are familiar. What wonderful scholars those early teachers were. '* Amazed loe, gazing rustics, rang'd around ; And still toe gaz'd, and still our wonder grew That one small head could carry all he knew." It is no wonder that we were often awed by their intellectual profundity, nor that they gave our \ \ SKKTCHES OF EARLY HISTORY. 215 youthful brains an impetus which sent them bounding through the severe curriculum we had to face. The narrow-minded and unyielding policy of George III., as every one now admits it to have been, brought about the American Revolution, and gave birth to the American Republic. As always happens in every great movement, there were two sides to this question, not only between Great Britain and her colonists, but among the colonists themselves. One side chimoured boldly for their rights, and, if need were, separation. The other side shrank from a contest with the mother land, and preferred a more peaceful solution of their diflSculties. A moderate degree of liberality on the part of the British Government would have appeased the demands of the malcontents, and another destiny whether for better or worse, might have been in store for the American people. But those were days when the policy of the nation was stern and uncompromising, when the views of trade were narrow and contracted, when justice was untempered with mercy, and when men were bigoted and pugnacious. Protracted wars consumed the revenues and made many draughts on the national purse, and when the trade of the colonies was laid under contribution, they refused the demand. 51 G SKETCHES OF EAKLV HISTORV. The Government, true to the spirit of the age, would not brook refusal on the part of its subjects, and must needs force them to comply. The contest began, and when, after a seven years' struggle, peace was declared, those who had sided with the old land found them- selves homeless, and rather than swear allegiance to the new regime, abandoned their adopted country and emigrated to the wilds of Canada and the Eastern Pro- vinces. Two results grew out of this contest : the establishment of a new and powerful nationality, and the settlement of a vast country subject to the British Crown, to the north, then an unbroken wilderness, now the Dominion of Canada,* whose rapid strides in wealth and power bid fair to rival even those of the great Republic. The history of our country — I am speaking of Upper Canada — remains to be written. It is true we have numerous works, and valuable ones too, on Canada ; but I refer to that part of history which gives a pic- ture of the people, their habits and customs, which takes you into their homes and unfolds their every-day life. This, it seems to me, is the very soul of history, * This has been changed. When the paper was written, the Con- federation of the Provinces, if it had been thought of, had not as. Bumed any definite shape. It followed eight years after, in 1867. SKETCHES OF EARLV tllSTORY. 2l7 and when the coming Canadian Macaulay shall write ours, he will look in vain for many an argosy, richly freighted with fact and story, which might have been saved if a helping hand had been given, but which now, alas ! is lost forever. It can hardly be expected that I should be as familiar with the early scenes enacted in this part of the Pro- vince as those who are very much older. Yet I have known many of the first settlers, and have heard from their lips, in the days of my boyhood, much about the hardships and severe privations they endured, as well as the story of many a rough and wild adventure. These old veterans have dropped, one by one, into the grave, until they have nearly all passed away, and we are left to enjoy many a luxury which their busy hands accumulated for us. As a Canadian — and I am sure I am giving expres- sion, not so much to a personal sentiment, as an abiding principle deeply rooted in the heart of every son of this grand country — T feel as much satisfaction and pride in tracing my origin to the pioneers of this Province — nay more — thanif my veins throbbed with noble blood. The picture of the log cabins which my grandfathers erected in the wilderness on the bay shore, 218 SKETCHES OF EARLY HISTORY. where my father and mother tirst saw the light, are far more inviting to me than hoary castle or rocky keep. I know that they were loyal, honest, industrious, and virtuous, and this is a record as much to be prized by their descendants as the mere distinction of noble birth. It has been said that love of country is not a charac- teristic of Canadians ; that in consequence of our youth there is but little for affection to cling to ; that the tra- ditions that cluster around age and foster these senti- ments are wanting. This may be to a certain extent true. But I cannot believe but that Canadif is are as loyal to their country as any other people under the sun. The life-long struggle of those men whom the old land was wonc " to put a mark of honour upon," are too near to us not to warm our hearts with love and vene- ration ; they were too sturdy a race to be lightly over- looked by their descendants. Their memory is too sacred a trust to be forgotten, and their lives too worthy of our imitation not to bind us together as a people^ whose home and country shall ever be first in our thoughts and affection. J- ,: " Breathes there a man with soul BO dead Who never to himself hath said • • This is my own, my native landl' , .. •* J. >. Whose heart hath ne'er within him burned u . . . As home his footsteps he hath turned t" SKETCHES OF KARLY HISTORY. 219 Is there any place in the world where such marvel- lous changes have taken place as here ? Where among the countries of the earth shall we find a more rapid and vigorous growth ? Ninety years * ago this Province was a dense and unknown forest. We can hardly realize the fact that not a century has elapsed since these strong-handed and brave -hearted men pushed tlieir way into the profound wilderness of Ui)per Canada. Were they not heroes ? See that man whose strong arm first uplifts the threatening axe. Fix his image in your mind, and tell me if he is not a subject worthy the genius and chisel of a Chantrey. Mark him as he swings his axe and buries it deep into a giant tree. Hark ! how that first blow rings through the wood, and echoes along the shores of the bay. The wild duck starts and flaps her wings ; the timid deer bounds away. Yet stroke follows stroke in measured force. The huge tree, whose branches have been fanned and tossed by the breeze of centuries, begins to sway. Another blow, and it falls thundering to the ground. Far and wide does the crash reverberate. It is the first knell of destruction booming through the forest of Canada, and as it flies upon the wings of the v/ind. « The realer will bear in mind the date when this was written. 220 SKETCjIES OV EARLY HISTORY. from hill-top^to hill-top, it proclaims the first welcomo sound of a new-born country. And did these men of whom we have been speaking make war alone upon the mighty forest ? Did they find their way alone to the wilds of Canada? No: thoy were accompanied by women as true and brave as themselves ; women who unmurmuringly shared their toils and hardships, who rejoiced in their succcess, and cheered them when weary and depressed. They left kindred and friends far b3hind, literally to bury themselves in the deep recesses of a boundless forest. They left comfortable homes to endure hunger and fatigue in log cabins which their own delicate hands helped to rear, far beyond the range of civilization. Let us follow a party of these adventurers to Canada. In the summer of the year 1795 or thereabouts, a company of six persons, composed of two men and their wives, with two small children, pushed a rough- looking and unwieldy boat away from the shore in the neighbourhood of Poughkeepsie, and turned its prow up the Hudson. A rude sail was hoisted, but it flapped lazily against the slender mast. The two men took up the oars and pulled quietly out into the river. They did not note the morning's sun gradually lifting himself RK ETCHES OF EARLY HISTORY. 221 above the eastern level, and Hcattering his cheerful rays of light across the river, and along its shores. All nature seemed rejoicing over the coming day, but they appeared not to heed it. They pulled on in silence, looking now ahead, and then wistfully back to the place they had left. Their boat was crowde;' ■:' /' u , ! .■■)'. ' ' ' ' , ' ^ I : ' '■' •iff;*" ■•? >1'?i^.- ■'' . :'. ■,' ^ ■ , :■,...■,! ^< •. t. ,(<' >■ , ■•'.!■ t-i, ;:■ RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS ' ■ er EARLY DAYS. PATERNAL MEMORIES— A VISIT TO THE UOMB OP MY BOYHOOD— THE OLD QUAKER MEETING HOUSE- FLASHES OF SILENCE— THE OLD BURYING GROUND — " TO THE MEMORY OF ELIZA " — GHOSTLY EXPERIENCES— HIVING THE BEES— ENCOUNTER WITH A BEAR— GIVING " THE MtTTEDf "— A "BOUNDARY QUESTION" —SONG OF THE BULLFROG — RING — SAGACITY OF ANIMAIS— TRAINING-DAYS- L'ICTURESQUK SCENERY OF THE BAY OF QUINTB —JOHN A. MACDONALD — A PERILOUS JOURNEY — AUNT JANE AND WILLET CASEY. TVyTORE than forty- five years have elapsed since my father departed this life, and left me a lad, the eldest of six children, to take his place, and assist my mother as well as I could in the management of affairs. Twenty years later mother was laid by his side, and before and since all my sisters have gone. For a num- ber of years the only survivors of that once happy household, the memory of which is so fresh and dear to me, have been myself and brother. Upper Canada was a vastly different place at the time of my father's 254 RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OP EARLY DAYS. decease (1840) from what it is now. The opportun- ities he had when young were proportionately few. I have been a considerable wanderer in my day, and have had chances of seeing what the world has accom- plished, and of contrasting it with his time and advan- tages. If his lines had fallen in another sphere ot action he would have made his mark. As it was, dur- ing his short life — he died at the age of 42 — he had with his own hands acquired an excellent farm of 250 acres, with a good, spacious, well-furnished liouse, barns, and out-buildings. His farm was a model of order and thorough tillage, well stocked with the best improved cattle, sheep, and hogs that could be had at that time, and all the implements were the newest that could be procured. He was out of debt, and therefore independent, and had money at interest. This, it seems to me, was something for a man to accomplish in twenty years. But this was not all. He was acknowledged to be a man of intelligence superior to most in those days, and was frequently consulted by neighbours and friends in matters of importance; a warm politician and a strict temperance man. He was one of the best speakers in the district, always in request at public meetings, and especially during an RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. 255 election campaign. Into political contests he entered with all his might, and would sometimes be away a week or more at a time, stumping — as they used to term it — the district. In politics he was a Reformer, and under the then existing circumstances I think I should have been one too. But the vexed questions that agi- tated the public mind then, and against which he fought and wrote, have been adjusted. An old co-worker of his said to me many years after at an election: " What a pity your father could not have seen that you would oppose the party he laboured so hard to build up. If a son of mine did it I would disinherit him as quick as I would shove a toad off a stick." I said to my old friend that I supposed the son had quite as good a right to form his opinions on certain matters as his father had. Political and religious prejudices are hard things to remove. I remember a deputation waiting on my father to get him to consent to be a candidate for an election which was on the eve of taking place, but he declined, on the ground that he was not pre- pared to assume so important a position then, nor did he feel that he had reached a point which would warrant him in leaving his business. He added that after a while, if his friends were disposed to confer 256 RA.ND05t RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. such an honour upon him, he might consider it more favourably. Peter Perry was chosen, and I know my father worked hard for hira, and the Tory candidate, Cartwright, was defeated. This remimls mo of a little bit of banking history, which created some noise in the district at the time, but which is quite forgotten now. A number of leading farmers, of whom my father was one, conceived the idea of establishing a " Farmers' Joint Stock Bank," which was subsequently carried out, and a bank bearing that name was started in Bath. John. S. Cartwright, the then member, through whom they expected to get a charter, and who was interested in the Commercial Bank at King- ston, failed to realize their expectations in that par- ticular, and the new bank had to close its doors. The opening was premature, and cost the stockholders a considerable sura of money. This little banking epi- sode helped to defeat Mr. Cartwright at the next election. Over thirty years have passed since I left my old home, and change after change has occurred as the years rolled along, until I have become a stranger to nearly all the people of the neighbourhood, and feel , strange where I used to romp and play in boyhood RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. 257 The houses and fields have elianged, the woods liave been pushed further back, and it is no longer tlie lionie that is fixed in my memory. My visits have con- sequently become less and liss fiecjuint. (Jn one of these occasions I felt a strong inclination one Sahliath morning to visit the old Quaker Meeting House about three miles away. After making my toilettt; ami breakfasting, I sallied forth, on foot and alone, through the fields and woods. The day was such as I would have selected from a thou.-and. It was towards the last of May — a season wherein if a man's heart fail to dance blithely, he must indeed be a victim ofdulncss The sun was moving upward in his diurnal course, and had just acquired sufficient heat to render the shade ot the wood desirable. The heaven was cloudless, and soft languor rested on the face of nature, stealing the mind's sympathy, and wooing it to the delights of re- pose. My mind was too much of quite a different character, came to my recollection. An old and well known Hicksite preacher was there one Sunday (always called First Day by the friends), and the spirit moved him to speak. The Hickaite and orthodox Quakers were something like the Jews and Saraaritaris of old — they dealt with one Hnother, but had no religious fellowship. The old friend had said but a few words, when one of the leaders of the meet- ing rose and said very gravely: "Sit thee down, James;" but James did not seem disposed to be choked off in this peremptory way, and continued. Again the old friend stood up, and with stronger emphasis said : " James, I tell thee to sit thee down ;" and this time James subsided. There was nothing more said on the occasion, and after a long silence, the meeting broke up. On another occasion, a young friend, who had aspired to become a teacher, stood up, and in that peculiar, drawling, sing-song tone which used to be a characteristic of nearly all their preachers, said : " The RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS Of fiARLY DAYS. 261 birds of the air have nests, the foxes have holes, but the Son of man hath not where to lay his head ; " and then sat down, leaving those who heard him to enlarge and apply the text to suit themselves. There was nothing more said that day. And so my mind wan- dered on from one thing to another, until at length my attention was arrested by a friend who rose and took off his hat (members of the society always sit with their hats on), and gave us a short and touching discourse. I have heard some of the most telling and heart-search- ing addresses at Quaker meetings. On this occasion there was no attempt — there could be none from a plain people like this — to tickle the ear with well-turned periods or rhetorical display. After the meeting was over, I walked out into the graveyard. My father and mother and two sisters lie there together, and several membei-s of my father's family. There is a peculiarity about a Quaker burying-ground that will arrest the attention of any visitor. Other denomina- tions are wont to mark the last resting place of loved ones by costly stones and inscriptions ; but here the majority of the graves are marked with a plain board, and many of them have only the initials of the deceased, and the rank grass interlocks its spines above the ^62 RANDOM RECOLLKCTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. humble mounds. I remember my father having some difficulty to get consent to place a plain marble slab at the head of his father and mother's grave. But were those who slumbered beneath forgotten ? Far other- wise. The husband here contemplated the lowly dwelling place of the former minister to his delight. The lover recognised the place where she whose presence was all-inspiring reposed, and each knew where were interred those who had been lights to their world of love, and on which grave to shed the drop born of affection and sorrow. Although the pomp, the state, and the pageantry of love were her ransom, yet hither, in moments when surrounding objects were for- gotten, had retired the afflicted, and poured forth the watery tribute that bedews the cheek of those that mourn " in spirit and in truth." Hither came those whose spirits had been bowed down beneath the bur- den of distress, and indulged in the melancholy occupa- tion of silent grief, from which no man ever went forth without benefit. I thought of Falconer's lines : — *' Full oft shall memory from oblivion's veil . Relieve your scenes, and sigh with grief sincere." After lingering for some time near the resting place of R\NDO>I llECOILECTfOXS OF EARLY DAYS. 2C3 the clear ones of my own family, I turned away and threaded my way thoughtfully back. During another visit to the neighbourhood of my birth, after having tea with the Rev. H. , Rec- tor of , I took a stroll through the graveyard that nearly surrounds the old church, and spent some time in reading the inscriptions on the headstones. There were numbers that were new and strange, but the most of them bore names that were familiar. Time, of course, had left his mark, and in some cases the lettering was almost gone. Many of those silent sleepers I remembered well, and had followed their re- mains to the grave, and had heard the old Rector pro- nounce the last sad rite: "Earth to earth, ashes to ashes, dust to dust," long years ago. As I passed on from grave to grave of former friends and neighbours, " Each in his narrow cell forever laid," many curious and pleasing recollections were brought to mind. I came at last to the lai'ge vault of the first Rector, who was among the first in the Province. I recol- lected well the building of this receptacle for the dead, and how his family, one after another, were placed in it ; and then the summons came to him, and he was laid 2G4 RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. there. A few years later, his wife, the last survivor of the family, was put tliere too, and the large slabs were sh; t down for the last time, closing the final chapter of this family history, and — as does not often happen in this world — they were taking their last sleep undivided. But Time, the great destroyer, had been at work during the 3'ears that had fled, and I was sorry to find that the slabs that covered the upper part of the vault, and which bore the inscriptions, were broken, and that the walls were falling in. There were no friends left to interest themselves in repairing the crumbling struc- ture, and in a few years more the probabilities are that every vestige of the last resting-place of this united couple will be gone. It is not a pleasing thought, and yet it is true, that however much we may be loved, and however many friends may follow us with tears to the grave, in a few short years they will be gone, and no one left to care for us, or perhaps know that we ever lived. I have stood of an evening in the grand cemetery of Pere la Chaise, Paris, and watched the people trooping in with their wreaths of immortelles to be placed on the tombs of departed friends, and others with cans of water and flowers to plant around the graves. Here and there could be UANDOM RECOLLECTlOIfS OP EAULY DAYS. 265 seen where some loved one had been sprinkling thr delicate flowers, or remained to water tliem with their tears. This respect paid to ♦ne memory of departed ones is pleasant, and yet, alas, how very few, after two or three generations, are remembered. The name that meets the eye on one stone after another might as well be a blank for all we know of them. Anyone who has visited the old churchyards or ruined abbeys in England must have felt this, n.s his gaze has rested on time-worn tablets from which every mark had long since been obliterated, " By time subdued (what will not time subdue) ! " Turning away from the vault, and passing down the yard, I came to a grave the headstone of which had fallen, and was broken. I turned the two pieces over, and read : " To the memory of Eliza ." And is this, thought I, the end of the only record of the dear friend of my boyhood ; the merry, happy girl whom every one loved ? No one left after a score of years to care for her grave ? So it is. The years sweep on. " Friend after friend departs," still on, and all recollection of us is lost; on still, and the very stones that were raised as a memorial disappear, and the place that knew us once knows us no more forever. I turned away, sad and 2G6 RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. tlioughtful ; but after a little my mind wandered back again to the sunny ^^ours of youth, and I lived them over. Eliza had been in our family for several years, and was one of the most cheerful, kind-hearted girls one could wish to see. She had a fine voice, and it seemed as natural for her to sing as a bird. This, with her happy disposition, made her the light and life of the house. She was like the little burn that went dancing so lightly over the pebbles in the meadow — bright, sparkling, joyous, delighting in pranks and fun as much as a kitten. " True mirth resides not in the smiling skin — The sweeted solace is to act no sin." — Herrick. I do not think Eliza ever intentionally acted a sin. On one occasion, however, this excess of spirit led her perhaps beyond the bounds of maidenly propriety; but it was done without consideration, and when it was over caused her a good deal of pain. The mis- chievous little adventure referred to shall be men- tioned presently. We had some neighbours who believed in ghosts ; not an uncommon thing in those days. Eliza, with myself, had frequently heard from these people descrip- RANDO RECOLLECTIONS OF EAllLY DAYS. 2G7 tions of reinaikal)le sights they luid soeii, and dreadful noises they had heard at one time and another. She conceived the idea of making an addition to tlieir ex- periences in this way, and as an exi)eriment made a trial on me. I had been away one afternoon, and re- turned about nine o'clock. It was quite dark. In the meantime she had quietly made her preparations, ard was on the look out for me. When my horse's feet were heard cantering up the road, she placed herself so that I could not fail to see her. On I came, and, dash- ing up to the gate, dismounted ; and there before me on the top of the stone wall was something, the height of a human figure draped in white, moving slovrly and noiselessly towards me. I was startled at first, but a second thought satisfied me what was up, and that my supernatural visitor was quite harmless. I passed through the gate, but my pet mare did not seem in- clined to follow, until I spoke to her, and then she bounded through with a snort. After putting her in the field, and returning, I found the ghost had vanished. But I was quite sure I had not done with it yet ; and as I drew near the house I was in momentary expecta- tion that it would come out upon me somewhere. I kept a sharp look-out, but saw nothing, and had reached 268 RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OP EARLY DAYS. the porch door to go ii), when lo, there stood the spec- tre barring my way ! I paused and glanced at its ap- pearance as well as I could, and I must confess if I had been at all superstitious, or had come on such an ob- ject in a strange place, I think I should have been somewhat shaken. However, I knew my spectre, and boldly took hold of it, and found I had something tangible in my grip. After a brief and silent struggle, I thrust open the door, and brought my victim into the room. My mother and sisters, who knew nothing of what had been going on, were greatly alarmed to see me dragging into the house a white object, and, woman- like, began to scream ; but the mystery was soon re- vealed. She had made up some thick paste, with which she had covered her face, and had really got up quite a sepulchral expression, to which the darkness gave effect; and being enveloped in a white sheet, made, we thought, a capital ghost. This did not sat- isfy her, and was only a preliminary to her appearances on the first suitable occasion to our neighbours. It was not long before they encountered the ghost on their way home after dark, and were so badly frightened that in the end I think Eliza was worse frightened than they. Eliza never had any confidants in these UA.NDOM RECOLLECTIONS OF EA.RLY DAYS. 2C9 little affairs, and they were over before any one in the house knew of it. This was the end, so far as she was concerned, of this kind of amusement. Some time after tl is another little episode of a simi- lar nature happened, but this time Eliza was one of the victims. We had a near neighbour, an old bachelor, who had a fine patch of melons close at hand. Eliza and a cousin who was on a visit had had their eyes on them, and one day declared they were going that night to get some of Tom's melons. Mother advised them not to do it, and told them there were melons enough in our own garden without their going to steal Tom's. No, they did'nt want them, they were going to have a laugh on Tom ; and so when it was dark they set off to commit the trespass. They had been away but a few minutes when mother — who by the way was a remark- ably timid woman, and I have often wondered how she got up enough courage to play the trick — put a white sheet under her arm and followed along the road to a turn, where was a pair of bars, through which the girls had passed to the field. Here she paused, and when she fancied the girls had reached their destination, she drew the sheet around her, rai)ped on the bars with a stick, and called to them. Then, folding up the 270 RANDOM RtCOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. sheet, she ran away home. Slie was not sure wliether they had seen her or not. The sheet was put away, and, taking up her knitting, she sat down (piietly to await their return, which she anticipated ahnost imme- diately. A long time elapsed, and they did not appear. Then mother became alarmed, and as she happened to be alone she did not know what to do. Though she had gone out on purpose to frighten the girls, I do not think she could have been induced to go out again to see what was keeping them. After a while Mary came in, and then Eliza, both pale, and bearing evidence of having had a terrible fright. Mother a^ked them what in the world was the matter. " O, Aunt Polly !" they both exclaimed, we have seen such an awful thing to- night." " What was it ? " They could not tell; it was terrible ! " Where did you see it i " " Over by the bars ! Just as we had got a melon we heard an awful nc^ise, and then we saw something white moving about, and then it was gone ! " They were so badly frightened that they dropped down among the vines and lay there for some minutes. They then got up, and, making a detour, walked homo ; but how, they never could tell. Mother was never suspected by then», and after a time she told RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. 271 them al)Out it. There were no more ghosts seen in the neighbourhood after that. Time passed on, and Eliza's love of mischief drove her into another kind of adventure. She was a girl of fine presence ; fair, with bright black eyes and soft black hair, which curled naturally, and was usually worn combed l)ack off the forehead. The general verdict was that she was pretty. I have no t RECOLLfiOtlONS 09 EARLY DAYS. 289 There was no other way to do it, but to stop and re-form the line. Then would come the word of command : "At- tention. Brown fall back. Johnson straighten up there. That will do. Now men, at the word 'Right about,' each man has to turn to his right, at the word ' Left about,' each man turns to his left. Now then: Attention — Right about face." Confusion again, some turning to the right *Qd others to the left. A few strong phrases follow— " As you were " — and so the thing goes on ; the men are wheeled to the right and left, marched about the field, and, after being put through various steps, are brought into line again. The commanding ofticar, sword in hand, looks along the serried ranks, the sergeants pass along the line, cliucking one's head up, pushing one back, bringing another forward, and then rings out the word of command again : " Attentlo)i ! Shoulder arms ! Make ready, present, fire ! " Down come the old guns and sticks in very threatening attitude, a random pop along the line is heard, then " Stand at case " — after which the Colonel, in his red coat, wheels his charger about, says a few words to the man, and dismisses them. The rest of the day was spent by every man in carousing, horse-racing, and games, with an occasional fight. After the arduous duties of the day, the officers 290 RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. had a special spread at the tavern, and afterwards left for home with very confused ideas as to the direction in which they should proceed to reach it. Fifty years ago, shaving the beard, in Canada at all events, was universal. If a man were to go about as the original Designer of his person no doubt intended, a razor would never have touched his face. But men, like other animals, are subject to crotchets, and are wont to imitate superiors, so when some big-bug like Peter the Great introduced the shears and razor, men appeared soon after with cropped heads and clean chops. I do not remember that I ever saw a man with a full beard until after I had passed manhood for some years, except on one occasion when I was a youngster at school in the old school house on the concession. A man passed through the neighbourhood — I do not re- member what he was doing — with a long flowing beard. We had somehow got the idea that no men except Jews wore their beards, and the natural inference with us was that this man \v^as one of that creed. He was as much of a curiosity to us as a chimpanzee or an African lion would have been, and we were about as afraid of him as we would have been on seeing either of the other animals. HA-NDOM RECOLLECTIONS OP EARLY DAYS. 291 The township of Adolphustovvn, in the county of Lennox, is the smallest township in the Province. Originally the counties of Lennox and Addington, Frontenac, Hastings and Prince Edward were embraced in the Midland District. These counties, as the country advanced in population, were one after another set off, the last being the united counties of Lennox and Ad- dington, soparated from Fnmtenac, and with the town of Napanee as its capital. The township in my young days was k. own as fourth town, as the townships east of it as far as Kingston were known as first, second and third town. Immediately after the American War, the land along the Bay of Quinte, embracing these town- ships, with fifth, sixth and seventh town to the west, were taken up, and the arduous task of clearing away the bush at once began. The bay, from its debouche at Kingston, extends west about seventy miles, nearly severing at its termination the county of Prince Ed- ward from the main land. The land on either hand, for about thirty miles west of Kingston, is undulating, with a gradual ascent from the shore, but when Adol- phustown is reached, Marysburgli, in the county of Prince Edward, on the opposite side of the bay, presents a bold front, its steep banks rising from one to two 2D2 RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS Of EARLY DAYS. hundred feet. From the Lake of the Mountain, looking across the wide stretch of water formed by the sharp detour of the bay in its westerly to a north-easterly course for fifteen or twenty miles, the observer has one of the most charming scenes in America spread out before him. In the distance, the lofty rocky shore of Sophiasburgh, with its trees and shrubs crowding down to the water's edge, stretch away to the right and left. To the west, the estuary known as Picton Bay curves around the high-wooded shore of Marysburgi\, and be- neath and to the east, the four points of which the town- ship of Adolphustown is composed reach out their woody banks into the wide sweep of the bay like the four fingers of a man's hand. For quiet, picturesque beauty, there is nothing to surpass it. On every hand the eye is arrested with charming landscapes, and look- ing across the several points of the township you have dwellings, grain fields, herds of cattle, and wood. Be- yond you catch the shimmer of the water. Again you have clumps of trees and cultivated fields, and behind them another stretch of water, and so on as far as the eye can reach. The whole course of the bay, in fact, is a panorama of rural beauty, but the old homes that Were to be seen along its banks twenty -five and thirty RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. 293 years ago have either disappeared altogether or have been modernized. It is now very nearly one hundred years since the first settlers found their way up it, and it must have been then a beautiful sight in its native wildness, the clear green water stretching away to the west, the sinuosities of the shore, the numberless inlets, the impenetrable forest and the streams that cut their way through it and poured their contingents into its broad bosom, the islands here and there, upon which the white man had never set his foot, water fowl in thousands, whose charming home was then for the first time invaded, skurrying away with noisy quake and whir, the wood made sweet with the song of birds, the chattering squirrel, the startled deer, the silent murmur of the water as it lapped the sedgy shore or gravelly beach — these things must have combined to please, and to awaken thoughts of peaceful homes in the near future to them all. The Bay of Quints, apart from its delightful scenery, possesses an historical interest. It is not known from whence it received its name, but there is no doubt it is of French origin. Perhaps some of the old French voyageui-s, halting at Fort Frontenac,fon their way west, as they passed across it, and through one of the 294 RANDOM BECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. gai)8 that open tlie way to the broad expanse of Lake Ontario, may have christened it. Be this as it may, it was along its shores that the first settlers of the Province located. Here came the first preachers, offering to the lonely settler the bread of life. On its banks the first house devoted to the worship of God was erected, and the seed sown here, as the country grew, spread abroad. Here the first schoolmaster be- gan his vocation of instructing the youth. The first steamboat was launched (181G) ujion its waters at Ernesttown, near the present village of Bath. King- ston, for a long time the principal town of the Province, then composed of a few log houses, was the depot of supplies for the settlers. It has a history long anterior to this date. In 1G73, Courcelles proceeded to Catara- qui with an armed force to bring the Iroquois to terms, and to get'control of the fur trade. Then followed the building of Fort Frontenac. The restless trader and discoverer, La Salle, had the original grant for a large domain around the' fort. Here, in 1G83, La Barre built vessels for the navigation of the lake, and the year following held a great council with the'Five Nations of Indians, at which Big Mouth was the spokesman. The fort was destroyed by Denonville in 1689, and re- RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DATS. 295 built in 1696. It was again reduced by Colonel Brad- .street in 1758. In Adolphustown many of the first settlers still lived when I was a boy, and I have heard them recount their trials and hardships many a time. Besides the U. E. Loyalists there were a number of Quaker families which came to the Province about the same time, leav- ing the new Republic, not precisely for the same rea- sons, but because of their attachment to the old land. During the war, these people, who are opposed to war and bloodshed, suffered a good deal, and were frequently imprisoned, and their money and property appropriated. This did not occur in Canada, but they were subject to a fine for some time, for not answering to their names at the annual muster of the militia. The fine, how- ever, v/as not exacted, except in cases where there were doubts as to membership with the society. This small township has contributed its quota to the Legislature of the country. T. Borland represented the Midland District in the firstParliamentof the Province, and was followed by Willet Casey, when Newark or Niagara was the capital. The latter was succeeded several years later by his son, Samuel Casey, but, as often happens, there was a difference in the political opinions of the 296 RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. father and son. The father was a Reformer, the son a Tory; and at the election, the old gentleman went to the poll and recorded his vote against his son, who was nevertheless elected. The Roblins, John P , who represented the county of Prince Edward, and David, who sat for Lennox and Addington, were natives of the township. The Hagermans, Christopher and D , were also fourth town boys, with whom my mother went to school. The old homestead, a low straggling old tenement, stood on the bay shore a few yards west of the road that leads to the wharf. T remember it well. It was destroyed by fire years ago. The father of Sir John A. Macdonald kept a store a short distance to the east of the Quaker meeting-house on Hay Bay, on the third concession. It was a small clap-boarded building, painted red, and was standing a few years ago. I remember being at a nomination in the village of Bath, on which occasion there were several speakers from Kingston, among them John A. Macdonald, then a young lawyer just feeling his way into political life. He made a speech, and began something in this way : " Yeomen of the county of Lennox and Addington, I remember well when I ran about in this district a bare- footed boy," &c. He had the faculty then, which he RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OP EARLY DAYS. 297 has ever since preserved, of getting hold of the affec- tions of the people. This bonhommie has had much to do with his popularity and success. I recollect well how lustily he was cheered by the staunch old farmers on the occasion referred to. A few years later a con- test came off in the county of Prince Edward, where I then resided. In those days political contests were quite as keen as now ; but the alterations in the law which governs these matters has been greatly changed and improved. The elections were so arranged that- people owning property in various counties cduld exer- cise their franchise. The old law, which required voters to come to a certain place in the district to record their vote, had been repealed ; and now each voter had to go to the township in which he owned property, to vote. Foreign voters were more numerous then than now, and were looked after very sharply. On this occasion there was a sharp battle ahead, and arrangements were made to meet property owners at all points. There were a number from Kingston on our side, and it fell to me to meet them at the Stone Mills Ferry, and bring them to Picton. The ice had only recently taken in the bay, and was not quite safe, even for foot passen- gers, There were six or seven, and among them John 298 RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. A. Macdonakl, Henry Sinith, afteivvaids Sir Henry and (itlicrs. In crossing, Snjitli got in, but was pulled out by liis companions, in no very nice pliirht for a long drive. The sleighing was good, and we dashed away. In the evening I Ijrouglit them back, and bo- fore they set off' across the bay on their return, John A. mounted the long, high stoop or platform in fi-ont of Teddy McGuire's, and gave us an harangue in imita- tion of , a well-known Quaker preacher, who had a marvellous method of intoning his discourses. It was a remarkable sing-song, which I, or any one else who ever heard it, could never forget. Well, John A., who knew him well, had caught it, and his imitation was so perfect that I am inclined to think the old man, if he had been a listener, would have been puzzled to tell t'other from which. We had a hearty laugh, and then separated. I have often heard my mother tell of a trip she made down to the Bay of Quintd, when she was a young girl. She had been on a visit to her brother Jonas CannifF (recently deceased in this city at the age of ninety-two), who had settled on the river Moira, two miles north of the town of Belleville, then a wilderness. There were no steamboats then, and the modes of con- RANDOM RECOLLECTIONS OF EARLY DAYS. 299 veyance both by land and water weio .slow and tedious. She was sent homo by her brother, who engaged two frienu|>^<^tbLtiiM ler