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22 1
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6
IIEPOUT
or THS
ENGINEER-IN-CHIEF
('^
'!V-
CANADIAN PACIFIC HAILWAY
8th APRIL, 1880.
11 k
I I^NCE SHEETS fmC0MPLETE),--STRUCS OFF FOR THE
I .r.^ -«=!E OF MEMBERS OF THE SENATE AND THE
f .4W HOUSE OP COMMONS.
* 971B
k J F598
/ i880a
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\
/
i
PROVINCIAL archives"
of
British Columbia
/^ i
o
6bci7
r
Plato No. 1. r.> accompanj/ Report of the EngiueeriH-Chief, Canadian Pacific Railway, 1850
PHOTO UTH BY T,1t BUflLAND LITH CO MONTKEA
3 No. 1. n
accompany Report of the Engv^n-in-Chief. Canadian Pacific Raxlway, 1880.
Th<
the gon<
my dutj
In t
submitte
ral route
pwod us
IS
PHOTO Ll-ni BY THE BURLAND UTM CO MONTREAL
i/fc Railway, IggQ.
;atchewan
64
83
U3
CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY.
R E P O R T
THE ENGINHER IN CHIEF,
ADDRESSED TO
THE HON. THE MINISTER OF RAILWAYS AND fWNALS,
Canadian Pacific Railwat,
Office of the Enoineeu-inChief,
Ottawfi, 8th April, 1880.
Tho Honorable
Sir Charles Tupper, K.C.M.G., C.B.,
Minister of Railways and Canals.
Si«,-1 have the honor to report on tho varioun surveys and examinations made
during the past season, and on other matters in connection ^vith the Canadian Pacific
Railway.
Those several point, have been briefly reviewed by mo in the form required for
the general report of the Department to be laid before Parliament. It now become*
my duty more fully to discuss them.
EXPLORATIONS IN NORTHERN BRITISH COLUMBIA AND THE PEACE RIVER DISTRICT. •
In the reports which, from time to time. I have had the honor to make. I hav»
submitted, with the explanatory detail, the information obtained respecting the seve-
ral routes to the Pacific Coast, and the character of the harbors which have been pro
|K>s(3d US suitable for the terminus
123- 1
NOUTM CO MONTREAL
It was oarly noon that tho Yellow Iloa.l Pass offered more than usual advantages
ior a lino of railway crossing tho fiocky Mountains, and that according to the infor-
mation we possessed, that pass might be held to be a definite governing point by
which the whole location would be controlled.
The most persistent efforts wore made for severul years to discover a line running
directly we.t from Yellow Head Pass to the coast. They were fruitless. It was
eventually established, that on the railway reaching Tete Jaune Cache, a point somo
fifty miles west of the Yellow Head Pass, two routes only could be advantageously
taken.
The one, following a north-easterly course to a point near Fort George, turned
eouth-westerly to gain tho Valley of the Homathco. by which it found a passage
through the Cascades Range to tide-water at Waddington Harbor. From Waddingtoa
it was projects to follow the rocky and precipitous side of Bute Inlet, and it '
was proposed t.. form a connection with Vancouver Island across the Strait of
Georgia. Three subsidiary lines were suggested in connection with this route One
to leave the line near Fort George, and to run to Dean Channel; the second on a
more westerly course to reach the Pacific at Gardner Inlet ; a third following a
north-westerly direction, to find an outlet by the Valley of the Eiver Skeena. Of
these four lines, the location which led to Bute Inlet, as giving assurance of a possi-
ble railwa, connectio,. with Vancouver Island, was the only one which obtained
any general local support.
The second line, on leaving Tete Jaune Cache, followed the Valley of the Elvers
Albreda and Thompson to Kamloops, and proceeded by Lytton at the junction of the
Thompson with the Fnisor, to descend the Fraser to Burrard Inlet.
Although the Yellow Iload Pass was recognized as an important objective point
affording an easy entrance from the east into British Columbia, through mountains
previously pronounced impenetrable, the more northern passes of the Peace and Pine
K^vers attracted attention, and opinions were expressed that they offered a natural
passage for the railway through a fertile district with a salubrious climate.
This territory had been partially explored. Sir Alexander Mackenzie discovered
the Peace lii.., anJ tra.od :,. to its source in IVM. Sir G«.^o .imp.oa ioliowed it
in 18
exam
Lake
detail
tueP
regior
■climal
A
Then
draine
Georgi
by the
! Tl
and to
had bo
I carried
I
passes
reconn)
In
«haract
My
-careful!
mercial
a selecti
the cons
couver I
select th
The
"Ml
carefully
i
than U!)ual advantages
iccording to tho infor-
e governing point by
iscover a lino running
"e fruitless. It was
3 Cache, a point somo
lid be advantageously
i
\
■ Fort George, turned >
ah it found a passage
Prom Waddington j
Bute Inlet, and it 1
across the Strait of
nth this route. One
nel ; the second on a I
a third following a
9 Eiver Skeena. Of
assurance of a possi-
one which obtained
.n 1828. Its general features accordingly, were to some extent known. The first
examination un.cr my direction was made in 1872, when I pas.ed over the line IVo.a
Lake Superior to the Pacific. In August of that year, when at Fort EdmoHton I
detailed Mr. IIoret.ky and Professor Macoun to proceed by way of Peace Eiver to
toe Pacific Coast, to investigate as far as practicable the physical character of tl.
rog.on, and to obtain information respecting the nature of the soil, the/..a, and the
■climate of the country they examined.
A second exploration of portions of tho northern district were made in 1377
The Eiver Skeena was followed by Mr. Cambie from its mouth to the country'
drained by its south branch, the Watsonciuah. The examination terminated at Port
Oeorge, The mountains ther-.lves were crossed by Mr. Hunter in the same season
■by the Pine Eiver Pass.
There was this distinction between the examinations of the routes to Bute Inlet
nnd to Burrard Inlet, and the northern Peace and Skeena route. The two former
had been surveyed in the usual form in which preliminary and location surveys are
earned on. and definite data respecting them had thus been obtained ; while the
passes of the Peace and Pine Eivers had been explored only in a general way, as a
reconnaissance, and the information obtained was consequently limited.
In my former reports I submitted the results of these examinations, and the
characteristics of the several routes examined.
My own views on the selection of a route were thus given in 1878 : " Upon
■t the junction of the I '""""^^^"^ ^'"'^'°g ^^« engineering features of each route, and weighing every com-
mercial consideration, I am forced to the conclusion that, if these alone are to govern
■a selection, if a decision cannot be postponed until further examinations be made if
the construction of the railway mus. at once be proceeded with, the line to Yan-
couver Inland Should, for the present, be rejected, and that the Government should
select the route by the Eivers Thompson and Praser to Burrard Inlet "
Valley of the Eivers
It.
tant objective point
through mountains
the Peace and Pine
ey oflfered a natural
8 climate.
Jckenzie discovered
>iuipoua ioiiowod it
The subject was ag»,id alluded to in my report of 1879 ._
"Much has been said for and against every route that has been projected, but on
crefal^con^ering the engineering and conxmercial features in each case, the con-
A'
elusion was forced upon my mind that tl.e railway itaelf would be least difficult to.
construct, that when established it would bo easiest operated, and that general
interests would bo most consulted, by following the route to Burrard Inlet."
I wasawaro that this opinion would not meet with general favor, and in-
the last-named report I proceeded to say :
"It cannot bo said that the selection of Burrard Inlet as a terminus, has given
general satisfaction in British Columbia. On the contrary, a claim has been advanced
inthat Province that another route and terminus are preferable. It is therefore to
be considered if additional explorations should be made and more complete informa-
tion ob.ained with regard to the northern country, «o that it may be definitely
determined if a route more desirable can be found. Accordingly I suggest
that the unexplored .egion, lying between Fort Connelly and Fort McLeod, in British
Columbia, and those largetractsofvacant territory east of the Rocky Mountains m
the latitude of Peace Eiver, which have never yet been traversed by scien<!ifio
travellers, be explored and accurate data obtained respecting the feasibility of a rail-
way through that region to the Pacific coast."
The Burrard Inlet route was known to be marked by many difficulties, and to-
mvolve an enormous outlay, but with Jail the disadvantages which it presents..
1 considered that it was entitled to the preference.
For six consecutive years, and at an exceptionally great cost, unremitting
and systematic efforts had been made without success to find a better and less ex-
pensive lino. Indeed there seemed no alternative but the adoption of that route,,
unless further examination of the northern country made it apparent that a better
and more eligible location could bo found under conditions so favorable that it would
command ready acceptance.
Owing, in some degree, to tne fact that the northern districts of British Colum
bia are remote from the areas of population, a northern route obtained but littie atten'-
tion during the early stages of the survey. It was only when it was found that no line
could be secured in the more southern latitude, except at great outlay, that a northera
i-ou.e came prominently into notice, and that more extended examinations became
desirable.
j I
■ that c
J havinj
I andur
that w
I it, thai
I inform
<jrOvori
the ad(
It
j -on the
^ undort!
j suitable
] commit
1
Ad
■«ver th(
gained,
knowlec
In .
•determii
and of tl
The
be systei
choice of
The
Edmonto
Simpson
a deep-w£
to the eas
separated
be least difficult tO"
i, and that gonoral
ard Inlet."
neral favor, and in
terminuH, has given
n has boon advanced
It is thoroforo to
complete informa-
may be dofinitoly
)rdingly I suggest
McLeod, in British
)cky Mountains, m
versed by scientific
easibility of a rail-
difficulties, and to
ivhich it ijresents,-
cost, unremitting^
etter and less ax-
on of that route,,
rent that a better
•able that it would
of British Col am.
ed but littie atten-
found that no line
ay, that a northera
ninations became
It was a serious responsibility for any engineer to assume to rocommemi
that construction should be commenced on the lino to Burrard Inlet, without first
having exhausted all the sources of inquiry open to us. I felt that we should clearly
I and unmistakoably understand the capabilities and possibilities of the northern region,
, that we should obtain data to determine if a railway lino could bo obtained through
I it, that we should know the character of the route, and that we should possess full
information with regard to the climate, soil and capability for settlement, before the
Oovornmont bocamo iri-evocably committed to the largo expenditure attendant on
the adoption of any route.
I It is easy to bo undorstood that, if, subsequent to the construction of the railway
; ^n the southern route, it was discovered that a northern line could have been
I undertaken at a greatly reduced cost, through a country, in respect of soil and climate,
; suitable for prosperous settlement, a gross and irremediable error would have been
\ committed, possibly ever to be deplored.
Additional northern explorations, therefore, seemed to mo to be advisable, what-
ever the result obtained. Under any circumstances, it was evident that the information
gained, even if of negative value, would be import-mt in adding to our positive
knowledge of the territory.
In April last, I was notifiel that tho Government had decided, previous to the
-determination of any route, to make additional examinations of the northern passes
J and of the country which flanks both sides of the mountains.
J These examinations it was proposed sorto carry on that tlio information would
I
be systematically and rapidly gained, that it could at occo bo acted on and the
«hoice of tho location and tho commencement of construction no longer delayed.
The exient of tarritory embraced was the country between the longitude of
Edmonton, east of the Rocky Mountains, and Port Simpsan, on the Pacific. Port
Simpson had already been repoi-ted to be an excellent harbor. It was known that
.a deep-water arm of tho sea, named Wark Inlet, some 35 miles in length, extended
to the east of Port Simpson, in the direction of the River Skoena; Wark Inlet being
separated from tho Skeena by a narrow isthmus of no great elevation.
i
The objects of the examination wore to discover tho mo.t favorable route f.o„».
the ooa.st to the Peace River District, on the euHtern sidoof the mountainvvnd thence
to the line already located near Edmonton ; to gain full information with regard toPort
S.mp,son, ita advantages and disadvantages as a harb.r; to verify the reports as to Wark
Inlet being navigable by ocean sailing shi,iB ; to ascertain how far the country lying
between the head of that sheet of water and the River Skeena, and the Valley of the
Skeena itself were suitable fora railway line ,• and to obtain such definite information
respecting the nature of portion of the line accessible to steamers from the ocean
as would admit of a contract for construction being at once lot, in U.e event of I
northern route being chosen.
This examination really involved the determination of the problem whether the
choice of the Burrard Inlet route should be sustained or abandoned, and if construe
t.on should be immediately commenced on the southern or on a northern line.
The service was consequently one of importance. The instructions to th.
officers selected, together with their reports, are given in full in the appendix.
As time was an element in the problem, it was arranged that the examination,
should be energetically can led out, and that so soon as the information was obtained,
a synopsis of it should be sent by telegraph from Edmonton to Ottawa
Before the end of September the information was received and laid
before the Government. On the 4th of October, an Order in Council was passed ratU
fy.ng the adoption of the route via the Yellowhead Pass to Burrard Inlet, and I was
directed to take steps for immediately placing under contract 125 miles of the most
difficult portion, from near Yale to Savona's Ferry.
The examinations made during the past season have established that Port
Simpson is a commodious, well-sheltered harbor. It has a large area of smooth water
anchorage ; it is to some extent exposed to south-west winds, but the roll of the ocea»
IS broken on the reefs which here form a natural breakwater. It has good approaches,
and is easy of access at all conditions of the tide. A railway can be carried from Port
Simpson, by way of Wark Inlet, to the River Skeena. and thence by the valley or
that river, a distance of 180 miles, to Hazelton at the Forks. A trial location of 60^'
aniles of the line has been made from the navigable waters of Wark Inlet, plan, an*
1
iivoi-ablo raute fioia
iountain3,andthenctt
a with regard to Port
he i-eports as to Wark
ar the country Ij'wg
id the Valley of the
definite information '
ors from the ocean,
in the event of »
roblem whether the
3d, and if construe .
lorthern line.
instructions to the
he appendix.
at the examination*
lation was obtained,
)nton to Ottawa,
■eceived and laid
cil was passed rati-
■d Inlet, and I was
miles of the most
iblished that Port
ea of smooth water
be roll of the ocean
IS good approaches,
5 carried from Port
by the valley or'
rial location of 60^'
k Inlet, plans and''
HOT7TE IV?1
"'"'°"™'''^"f^''«^«"»t-„COMON:RE„,
Plato No. 3. /e./trr«i (» ,-, s»j»
fr0^^
nias!^^
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880.
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^files p.epaml, and approximaio quantities computed, with tho view „f placing
>ction urder contract, had a noi thoin route been adopted.
J From Hazelton nevoral practicable routes can bo obtained eastward.
No. l.~On leaving tho Forlts, this route follows tho Eivor WatHon(iuah to it»
Bd, and by a tributary it roaches the main River Fraser near Fort George, whence
tollows that river to Tete Jauno Cache, whore it intersects the line located by tho
^Uow Head Pass to the prairie region.
No. 2.— Follows in tho same course, the Watsonquah Valley, to Fort Fraser,
I which point, deflecting from the route above described, it runs northeasterly, vid
brtSt. James and Fort McLcod. to Pino River Pass, and thence eastward across tho
bace River District.
iV^o. 3.— Ascends the Skeena above the Forks about 33 miles; thence by the
liver Babino and the Kotsine Pa.ss, crosses Driftwood River. It then passes over a
Jcond divide and follows tho Omenica Eivor to Peace River Puss, and thence pursue*
I course to join No. 2 on the plateau of Peace River.
Possibly a fourth line may be available by branching from No. 3 a little to the
■orthofBabine Lake, running towards that lake to Fort Babine, crossing over to
Tacla Lake, and following the valley of Middle River to Tromblenr Lake, from
^hich point it may be carried by the Nation and Parsnip Rivers, or possibly more
[irectly by Fort McLeod, to Pine River Pass.
It is considered that, although the information is of a general character
he three first routes have been established to be practicable. The relative eleva.
pons attained on each is shown on the sections (Plate No. 2). The distance by
ach as compared with the line to Burrard Inlet, is roughly estimated as follows :—
Hlles.
Lake Superior to Port Moody, Burrard Inlet 1,945 (measured.) -
to Port Simpson by No. 1 2,170 (estimated.)
" " 2 2,200 "
" " 3 2,135 «
Accordingly, the shortest cf ho three northern routes Js that by Peace River.
8
Startir.K IVon. a ,.on>m„n point. ,su..h an Fort Su.Uatohowan, e"I7of tho moun-
tams, nil exceed in Io..-tl. the lino to Burrnrd Inlet.
To Port Simpon, nrf Peace Hive.- r«.ss, !,.... 190 miloH longer.
" ^'"lluw Head Pa8.H, is.... 225 '• "
" i'ine Biver PasH, iH 255 " "
All are equally effected by climatic considerations, which, in this latitude are
oi paramount importance. There is no difference of opinion among the explorers
respecting the extent of fertile land. West of the Kocky Mountains it is inconsider-
able. The fertile tracts are indeed the exception. To the east of the mountain chain
the Peace Hiver j.lateau is marked by great fertility of noil over a wide area.
The Peace River region, as far as exmi,.cd, may be considered to extend from
the foot hills of the IJocky Mountains easterly to Lesser Slave Luke, and from latitude
54" to la.iuHlc. ,r. The whole area within these boundaries is not fertile, but they
set forth generally the limit within which the region of fertility is found. To the
north of Ur., however, bordering the valley of the Peace Biver. even to latitude
59« there is a considerable tract of country that is reported to be fertile- but
as this northern district, though properly speaking included in the Peace River
country, has not yc-t leon examined, and as it was not embraced in the explorations
of the past season, it is not here further referred to.
The fertile district is described as a plateau elevated generally about 2,000 feet
above the sea. The rivers which pass through, or have their sources in the Rocky
Moutains. and which drain the plateau, run in deeply eroded channels, ranging in
many places from 600 to 700 feet below the general level. Peace River itself ri^es
xn Northern British Columbia and flows through the Rocky Mountains by a low pas-
«age about latitude 560. It is described as a noble stream, indeed one of the most
beautiful of rivers. It is fed from the south by a number of tributaries, the chief
Of which are Pine River and Smoky River, its confluence with the former being
about longitude 120' 30', and with the latter about three degrees further east.
West ofSmoky River, both to the south and north of Peace River, there are
extensive areas of prairie country, either perfectly open and covered with more or
less luxuriant grass, or dotted with patches of copse and trees.
if
T
more <
river >
■which
talsan:
fion of
much (
■equally
Eu
-countn
woods i
Th
of L08S(
wwampj
Lake to
would f
To
the surf
-agriculti
The
wonderf
|cient rai
1 The
land tha
'the e.xp!
I'matic gi
I scale at
I River, bu
|«xceptior
ILake. S
•f
between 1
j
i^an, eastof tho inoiin-
niloM lf)nger.
<(
II
in this latitude, aro
imong the explorers
tains it is inconsider-
f the mountain chain
er a wide area.
lorod to extend from
<o, and from latitude
not fertile, but they
ty is found. To the
»-or, oven to latitude
to bo fertile; but,
n the Peace River
in the explorations
lly about 2,000 foot
urccs in the Rocky
hanncl?, ranging in
ce River itself riSes
I tains by a low pas-
ed one of the most
•ibutaries, the chief
ii the former being
'urtber east.
.ce River, there are
7ored with more or
i The remainder of the surface is generally occupied by second growth foreHt,
Ignore or less dense. Some patches of the original forest remain, particularly in thJ
Jriver valleys. They are composed of much la,-ger trees, chiefly coniforous, among
l^hich the black spruce is most abundant. Handsome groves of old and largo
|balsam poplars are also to be (<)und in some of the valleys. Though a la.v^e propor-
'tion of the prairie land is immediately available from an agricultural point of view,
much of the region now covered with second growth and forest will eventually bJ
■equally valuable.
^ East of the Smoky River and southward towards the Athabasca, the prairie
|«ountry. is InsigniHcant in extent, the region being characterized by second growth
woods in every stage of development.
The largest tract of poor land is that bordering the valley of the At ha^ isca. South
of Lesser Slave Lake it rises to a considerable height. This region is also very
Hwumpy in many places, and for a width of 20 to 25 miles on the trail from Sturgeon
Lake to the Athabasca is quite unsuited for agriculture, though in many places it
would furnish good pasture wore the timber cleared away.
To the northward, east of Smoky River, peaty and other swamps occupy part of
|the surface. Land of this character may be regarded as permanently unsuited for
^--^riculture.
The luxuriance of the natural vegetation on the prairies i. described as truly
.wonderful, and indicates not only the fertility of the soil, but the occurrence of suffi-
kient rain-fall.
; The explorers unite in the opinion that the fertile area is of great extent,
and that the whole region is certainly well adapted for stock raising. But
^ the explorations do not establish beyond question its adaptability for til syste-
^ matic growth of the higher cereals. Cultivation has been attempted on a limited
l8cale at the Hudson's Bay Forts, in sheltered spots in the valley of the Peace
|fiiver,but no portion of the plateau has been placed under cultivation, with the
^ xception of very limited areas in the vicinity of Lessor Slave Lake and of Sturgeon
jLake. Sufficient data have not been obtained to admit of any reliable comparison
between this district ana the better known fertile portions of the North- West, and if.
10
would be premature .0 pmn.„noe « positivo opinion upon .In grm-.-growing cnpa-
cilicH, .IthouKl. the uncertainty which han ulwayn boon folt u. this rcBpoet h«H boon
partially ixmovod by tho exporienco ofia-st Hoason.
Dr. (J. M. DawHon, of the (ioolo;.ical S.n-voy, i. of opinion that tho asoortainod
lactH leave no doubt on the subject of the Huifleiont length and warmth of the season
to ripen wheat, oatM and barley, with all orxlinaiy root crop« and vegetable', Th*
only point which may a.lmit of quoHtion in, to what extent tho occurrence of Into
and early frosts may interfere with their growth. Last year summo. A n.,s occurred
at different times; they were severe in the latter part of August, and did consider-
able injury to the growing crops around some of the Hudson's Bay Company's Ports-
It is probable that the season of 1879 may have been exceptional, and that tho
average of other years may give more favorable deductions ; but we cannot set
aside daU which have been obtained.
Tho evidence shows that throughout the whole country explored, summer ft-osts
were experienced. The explorers spent the month of August in the Peace River
district. The wheat patches around the Hudson's Bay Forts, ut the bottom of the
valley at Hudson's Hope and Dunvegan, were injured by frost. On the plateau there
wa« frost on three occasions in August ; on the 2lst. at points a hundred miles
apart. ,2^ and U^ of frost were recorded. No frost was experien.od in August last
year near Edmonton, a fact which suggests that the Peace Eiver disUict cannot be con-
sidered equal to the Saskatchewan in point of climate. But it would be premature
to assume that such isabsoluteiy the case. As cultivation advances and drainage
relieves the land from superabundant water, the , . n.u,. m.y bo modi'lod.
It may be remembered that the meteroicgio.f ph. ..mena of last year were
at variance with experience in many parts of the wcrld. In portions of th^
eastern homispho.o the humidity was excessive and unfavourable to agriculture
In«uences.bat little understood, may have intervened to give an impress less favorable
t-thc character of the Peace River district than is warranted. The observations of
•a tt.-.. of years may establish the perfect capability of this district for agricultural
-..OSes; but s :. .ave not the facts from which we' can generalize with confidence
^hile the fertility of the soil is a recognized fact, and it may hereafter be established
that th
Kheal
Chewai
ciiuall)
^'rasslu
Di
tccur i
AS occv
quality
ing fror
Nil
mention
A seam
I ..
jnotes of
iminerali
.Gordon.
I
1 ^^
ICanada (
I interest,
abilities
the arab
H grmri-giowiiiaf onpii-
• thin lospect lias toon
thut tho ftscortainod
wnrmth of tho season
I and vogotublei. Th»
10 oecurronco of !at©
ummoi A OH (8 occurred
iHt, aud did considor-
Bay Company's Forts"
optional, and thut tho
s ; but wo cannot set
plorod, summer ft-osts
tt in tho Poaco Rivor
at tho bottom of the
On tho plateau there
fits a hundred miles
ion(!od in August last
isUicl cannot bo con-
would bo premature
'ancos and drainage
I modi'iod.
la of last year were
In portions of th&
able to agriculture,
npross loss favorable
rho observations of
•ict for agricultural
ize with confidence,
safter be ostablishod
i=
11
that tho I'oace River region is well adapted tor thfl growth of grain, its ritno.H for
Wheat culture is n..t yet fully confirmed ; certainly not so fully as that of tho .SasUat-
ehowan district to tho south. There can, however, be no d'.ubt of tho fact that
e<|ually with tho Saskatchewan it enjoys immunity from the devastating visits of
{jrasshoppers.
1 Dr. Dawson has oxprossed tho opinion that bed8 of coal of a workable character
i)ccur in different parts of the Pence Rivor region. Ho describes the coal seams
»« occurring i„ two series of rocks. In the lower or Cretaceous zone, beds of good
quality were observed at various points a little east of tho mountains, tho soams vary-
ing from a few inches to two foot in thickness.
I Numerous instances of localities, showing coal or lignite in tl,. upper series, are
fnentioned, tho chief being in the valley of tho Athabasca and its southern tributaries.
Ji seam was observed at one place from nine to ton foot in thickness
I submit the i-oports of tho explorers with full detail in tho Appcidi-x; hkowise
inotes of Dr. G. M. Dawson on tho agricultural capability, tho climafo, the economic
minerals oftho district, together with a descriptive memorandum by th- Rev. D. M.
Gordon.
As everything relating to tho character oftho soil and climate of over - portion of
Canada on tho Pacific Coast, and its possibilities as a field for settlcmon: is of deep
jinterest, I doem it proper to embrace in tho Appendi.x notes on the a-ricul; iral capa-
jbilitios of Queen Charlotte Islands, furnished by Dr. G. M. Dawson, and a oport oa
the arable lands of Vancouver Island, by Mr. Joseph Ilmitoi-.
The location of the railway being now definitely fi.xed and contracts awarded
on the lino to Burrard Inlet, in the interest of tho railway there is no longer any
necessity for continuing examinations in the northern districts. Many years must
elapee before the groat areas of available lands between Manitoba and the raou .tains
are fully occupied, and by this period the capability of the Peace River District
will h,»ve been tested. Meanwhile, tho character and extent of railway traffic and
itoroquirementa will be know .. The question will then present itself, how this
traffic can best be dealt with. Should it be desirable to construct a branch to Peae*
12
1
n
liivo,. r,,„„ „,„. ,„,„,. „„ „,„ ,„„„, ,.„^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ _^^ ^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ -
nation. ,,„v„ „„„Ui.|,„, „,„, .„,, „ ,.„^ ._ ^^^^^^^ ^^^_^.^^^
...... «™ No» V,,,,. ... s.,. k™„.«,„. : „„„ ,,, ,„„.„.„,„,._„„,„„ „,^„
In .1,0 A,„„„di, „i„ ,«, .,„„j „„,„, „„ ^^^ „,_,^ _^, ^,^^ ^_^.^
Columbia, l,yJ£oi„rfionoralM„„dv UP f , tnraitieo
^ '":'"'"""»'»". " -«™^oJ .0 .ho D.,»,,m„„,, The,, givo tho view, of .hi.
mo tratiH-coiitincnlal lailwiiy. '
KXPLORATIONS IN THE PRAfRrE REOION.
In my ixpor. ,„ la., yoar I .„tai.,„d .h.j „,, |„„„,„„^ „„j ^,„^ __^ ^l_^ ___^.^
l.no, b„. „,„„ .„„ .„b„.j„y „„„. ,„ ,^^ j^^_.^^ ^^^^^_ _^_^^ __^ ^ ^__^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^
oo.»,de,,,io„, „„J .„„.,.ol,„.„„-„„ „f „„ ,i„e.„f o„„,„„„,,„„„, „„o.ho,.co„..™o.od
and w,.,toUy,„™,o „„„,,„,„.„, „,.„„.,,,,„,„,, ,„ di,„ouyo„„„,|,„j, ^,(,„^.
e.nmont. I bog |„„vo to .■,,|,„„t ,|,„ ,-„„m,„,„d,ti„„,
I" o..dor that tho Gov.o,.„m.n. „„.y bo i. a position „i.ely to o«..ci» tbo oon.,.,
«vo,-.l,....„l™y.y.,.„„nh„No,..h.W..t,.b,-oad goocral .oho™« .honld belaid
down ,„,. fl,.„ro g„id.,„o„. It „.y, ,„.„„p,, ^„ ,^p^^,^,^ ^ ^^^ .__
r.-p.o.,.„„„y,,„.a,..,,„god„„.„,„o„o™,.ca,.of„„yit„.ybeconcoi«d,bu.it.boa,d
bo to p„„oy .„ fo„„„ , ,„ „ „„,„ ,,„^„„^^ ^,^^ ^^^^^^_ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^
and .bo peopio who a-o .„ „oo„py „, do„„d that o«s .honid „o„ b. ..do to
d..o™i.o tbo loading „™„n., of ...fflo. Any .obem. will bo in«,c,„at. „ole„ it
^7'"*° """' '"^ ■^"""■y- »""> "« -PaWli"» and po.,iblo -o^uiron.ont, .. »
Imoiiton, the Itito . -ami
le.
lailway withthelinorun-l
ubmit a comparison with [
ying diagram (Plato No.
lucstion, tho advantages
lino adopted to Burrard
inent, within the limits
•al summits so low or
ailway through British I
ig the Royal Engineers
give the views of this I
nlot as a terminus for
not only of the main
the subject of earnest
I, whether constructed
ontrollcd by the Gov-
io exercise tho control
lie me should be laid
to adhere, in every
iceived, but it should
rests of the country
iild now be made to
inadequate unless it
I I'oquirements as s
Ihf
PHOTO LITH Br THE BURl.NO uITH CO MONTREAL
cana:
THE J
1700
IBAO
Plate No. 3. To
accompany Report of th^ Engineer-iu-Chief, Canadian Pacific Raihcay, 1880.
DIAGRAM OF PROFILES
COMPARING THE
CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY
ecva
WITH
THE FOUR TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROADS
or THJJ
UlSriTED STA.TES.
13
The first .top is to obtain yone.-al information rcpoetiuK tha pHnolpa, foatu.-es
>1 the country, the character of .ho .soil, the climate and its .ninorulH. I pointed out
last year, that although the prairie region had been .eon by n.uny traveller., and
that the country east of the Kooky Mountains had been travernod on many trails
»da great deal of information collected. «till the territory i« of «uoh vast oxten;
that comparitavoly little of it was known.
I felt it my duty, therefore, to recommend that every effort should be made by
additional explorations to gain information and gather data to .d.ult of correct con-
elusions being drawn.
In conformity with my recommendation, these explorations were authori.od •
they included the country north of the 51st parallel of latitude, U, the (.'hurchili
Eiver district reaching the SfUh parallel, and to the S^th parallel in the iVace iliver
district. They extended from the Rocky Mountains easterly to the meridian,
which passes through Lake Winnipegosis.
The examination was divided into five sections:
*. 1. l^r. John Smith was appointeJ to examine the tract north nni,,, ido.raph
line, as it runs west of Northcote. included between the liiver .Sa.Katcho.un and
Lake VVinnipegosis.
Mr. D. C. 0-Keefe explored the tract bounded oa the south by the lliver Sas-
k^tchewan, between Cumberland House and Carleton. on the we.t by the llndson's
B|y route, extending from Carleton northerly, via Lake Pelican to |.|., , |, Orosse •
on; the north by the Churchill ver. '
I 3. M,..EI,„rc.„a.d„tuilod.„th= o.ploratlo,, of ,ho dWricl ,„,„„|„,l „„ the
^.h b, t,e ,.„^ f..„„ CaHoton ., Loo I,. Bid,., „„ .h. „„, ,y u„ ,„,, ,„„,,,„„_
«- o„ th. .« a„a „„..„. ,, .h« 1I„.U„„. Bay route f™. Ca,.,o.„„ „,„ ,,„,. ,„,,,„ .
tfd Methy Portage,
4.P„f„.o,M,„„„„„.„p.,„i,„^^ e.pWo th.c.o„„.ry ly,„„ „«h oflho
.. pa^Ue, of ,.tU„do, and »u,h of the te,eg,..ph ,ine ,.,„, „,i,«..o„e .„
»imonton.
■«aiiji*B 1*W.' .m a^SaSK
14
f
and doscnbcl, to make full and comnl«f« «vn^:„„..-._„ . freque,
ewainj
Btttiksi
oni.o/fo™, .,,0 ™„» of riv.,, and creek, .„d .„ p„i„., be„i„g on .K. wat,,- .upp; *"'"■"
the p,e™n«o of ocononaic „,„„„.,, and all f.„„„, of importance. A
I«ruct,„„, „erea,.„ given that a dail, record .hen,., be tept .h„„in«. ,'^T\
r«.nf.„,U,e.,c».,.„e,c„pcra.„„and ..oral condition of .t. atlp.erc and
.ote al, fac. faring apon .„c climatic condition, of eac. locali.,, and! ^Z^' '
agricultural purposes.
lAi'gc
iKfgC lii
Thee report, are too lengthy to be inserted in full, but synopse, amply e.plan *«^-"
tory are given in the appendix. The general results may bo thus stated. <»l'^e-'V"<
Itogitud
Ban
fo J ■I'""'; "'""° "~ "°'^''««"«»"^ P-""™.. in a,.nnda„coan *, .ario.*"-"'
loie8tplants,andgivesevidenceof a prolific soil An .■ u ..
diversified h. .... ...•,.,.._ . , .^ "" '' ^ '^^*^'" '''•«'*^^'^ >«' l^oweve, ^^^^
«K tending
niles nor
With
rf;,ro,.a;fl I u , ^ — ^ v;orLaiM oreaath is, howeve;
.U and ndsc variable in width, commence, about a™ mile, north of the S»
<©ther tra
Af,,.. fl ^. , ^" wot am
M-ch fine ..mber wa. observed. In ,h. .onth-wctera part, poplar co,,
F v.,1. ,r„.n.l„ m.,in, into continnon, popiar fore., which .'tains':: .rental '"' '
development to the ea.t of Stinting late. The hal.m and poplar in g„™ ia .1"°'" '
large .,ze, in many ca.e. two feet in diameter. K '« ■» « |o a. „„,
15
their attention more pa ■
previously been travem '""""'' "'"'""' '"^ ''"""° "'" ^"""'^" ^^=''-« «"« S''-- of sp.uce are
•that a knowledge of /'''''""''' ""•^"* ^^'"' -l^^" ""^ balnarn-poplar, and, on the borders of the
.a information to ombra'""""''^' "'""■' "' """'"■"' '' "" "''"'' "^^ **^ ^^ '"^'"'^ i" diumotor are found.
I timber iand. the charact ^"'"'"' '""" '^ '"■""""' "" ^''^ ''''' '""'^ ^"^ "'^g"^' but seldom attains a foot in
^!<i ...,.<,... \t:..,.i I . Ml
'diainulei'
Jiiich unci willow are numerous, but of little value except for fuel.
; synopses amply explam
thus stated.
>aring on the water suppi
"""'^- '^ """• '"""■ '^"""""y »'"y l» """Hb.,! a. r„„„i„g „.„„> Oa,„b«,-lu,.a n„„,„
■aid b. kept .b„„i„,, .,"°"f ": '"" '■"'■'"'"' '" ""' '""" """■'""'" ••"" "■«- """--S -■«.«.ly to 54" 30'
r .b, «„o,pb„., :;;:;;,:::,'' ■ "-" '""°""^"'°^ - "'° ""'^"" ""'^'"'"■'» »'■='■ ■-. ^i^y
ocality, and its fitness f-
North of tin, line up to latitude 55° the country consists of a series of
lai'go Lk.., hiyh sand ridges, rounded hills and wide stretches of bare sand with
Aeciuentmavshes producing coarse grass. The only locality where good land waa
ob^erved was some distance south of the Stanley Mission on Churchill Kiver about
longitude Wio ,0, Here some small patches were cultivated as gardens.
e Saskatchewan, west Nor.h of latitude 55° and extending to Churchill Eiver the whole country is
ntatn.ng tracts of ferti,<l.cribed as bein, absolutely barren consisting of Laurentian rocks with mLy
^ extend half a degn muskegs, sundy wastes and numerous large lakes.
Banksian pines of small size, scattered over the rocks and here and there
bundanceall the varioc *'°^®^ "^ '^'"'*" ^:"'"°o '" marshy spots were met with,
ain breadth is, howeve;
egs. A stretch of sao '^'" «--P'--ti«" west of longitude 107° 30' was generally confined to the district
miles north of the S. ^'"'"'^ '""^ "" ^'^^''^^^-^' °0'-tb to Beaver Eiver and to about thirtyfive
Wiles uortn oi Lac la Biche.
Within these limits the country is described ae varied in character. There are
most part sandy to th f ''^"^'"'^^ P'''^""' '^^<^'^i with rich dark loam, capable of producing fine crops
|her tracts are sandy and poor, and to the east, south of Beaver Exver, a large extent
fTwet and ma?-8hy land is met.
■a
Jrn part, poplar cops § rn. . ,.
:ch attains its greats I ""'' '"^^"'' '''' '''' ^^°^« °^ '""'^ ^'^'r-' was originally forest, but at
poplar in groves is cl'T" ' ''"'' '' '"" "'' "" "^'"'^ ™"'' "^'"^ '''' Saskatchewan is chiefly prairie,
^o the north large open tracl. are inte.-snered through the forest land. The standing
Im ..r co.M„t,s 01 popLu. and spruce of good size with Banksian pine on sandy soil.
miles north of the Sa
n seven miles of Fort
id. East of Fort a
""'"''^ ""« I" ffl>.ho in l„ti,u,io 55. p""'l
bortleri
The o„,„„,, „,,„ ,„ „„ ,„„^,_ ^, ; ..-...,
"long the fek,„c.l,„„,„, ,„„, ,,„. ^^^ J. '^""^ """"""'OJ- lt» «l„„„„u,r I '!» <»»
->^^ i- -„,„■„« „„,„, „„,„ „„,,,,„ ^^^;™ »' "- <i.-.™„„ ,„. .,„„ „,, ,^^^
II i» (jonorally a „-„oJo,i dixdci wkl i '^°"""
■««o.- .■.««. >.,,c,™,o„,„.s»,..,chc»r"°''" '"■°'"° """ °°""° ™»''' "" '■""'•
To ,.,c».,„„,Lc,»..s,„v„ Lake the count,,. i,,,,l„„,a, . ■""
■n«'K.n of ,1,0 ]»,,„ ^ '" '""^ ■"""»ok«n, and along „„. wbich i.
nnd of a variable q„a|i,„ ,, ,. / ' '^"' ^ '^""^d tho mil i, IM,, ! ™™ble.
1 "'u/. It IS covered here and th ■ & '
and i, generally lightly ,i„t„.„j, p "•"" »■'"' l°"na„, p.„„„
'he count,., is dccriW a. in evety w„ i^t "™'" ""^ ""^ "^ '""■""ton
pea-vine, well watced by ,t|.e«„M a„d „ . '"' "'' " *'' """" ''" «'•«» and
P-chingEd.„„.„„.,,,„,,, ~;"21tr' "".'" """" °°'"- ^^
gently rolling „,,„„ |„„^^ •>' « »< ".th Iu«,.,ane hay meadow, .nj
..arwe..e.ueee.f„l,yculti™t.d in :^^^^'' '"" °' "'^^ '^^'^ •*« P-t
Much fine spruce with occasional bimh'nP 1
Athabasca and its tribn^rica. Xh. i: dl: ^ '''^l '" ''» ™"- »"'«
«and hill, intervene at variety poin,,. ' """°' '" «'""" ^"S" and.
^ colored Bi
12;
' 17
iniloH noi'tli of Lac l n ,. . . '
. tl. Of .,.0 LaKo , „ ':" "''"'"•« "^^* «^ ^°^«- S'-« I^^l^^ '•« aHu,iod to in tho account
of the oxplo.nt.o„«in Northon. Bnti.h Columbia and the Peace liivor rogion
nH'dors (hat tho Konera: I
as oxtomiing from aboui
ho in latitmJo 55".
' west to tho Athabasca
TheHoction south of the Sa,skatchowan. ea«t of Fort A la Corne, west of Laka
r:nn,pego«iH and north of the 52nd parallel, is doHcribed by Dr. John Smith.
Tho.„to...orof this district remain. «till unexplored, bnt the Porcupine and
fflecs and othor. who ^""l"" "'"^ '^^ '^--" ^ --PJ - extensive area, and are said to be covered with
'^r^, with ocea.ional ,h«'^^y ^--^'-f fine poplar, spruce and tamarac. To the east of these hills and
^ bordering on the Saskatchewan and L.ko Winnipego.is there is almost a continuous
■ n.arsl, but to the south-oast of Porcupine i Us. on the Swan liivor, there is a I w^e
1 extent of firm fniflln Int., I TO-....1 _/. .. ,^ . '^
«9ei- Slavo Lake and
minod. Its charar;ter
of Ed nionl oil is beuer
ctions, but there arc
iKl copse wood, the
— ~..„.. ..^.i.iiij iiiuru IS a i.ir "e
extent of fine fertile land. West of ,ho Porcupine Ilills, as far as tho lor meridi-u.
the country, so far as examined, is flat, with extensive swamps and muskegs. M.eh
of the soil is rich, and whore drainage is possible will no doubt become of value.
Westward of the lOT meridian tho country, uUhough not free fron. swamps'
becomes much drier. The soil is good and fertile, of a dark colored loam of greai
depth. In the valley of the Oarrot River the land is exceedingly rich.
,.„, . ^ Thedistrict is generally^ cove- ,d with timber, except tho south-west portion
'i-oken, and along the J which is prairie. osc poition,
fe south-east to the |
The district north of the Qu'Appelle and west of the Assiniboine is described a.
j variable. Near the Assiniboine and Fort Ellice there is a poor and sandy tract
Farther west tho soil, although light, proves to be fair in quality.
'andyloam. On the
3d the .soil is ligij,
luxuriant pasture
lorth of Edmonton
with tall grass and
ispen copse. Ap-
: hay meadows and
t during the past
the valleys of the
gravel ridges and.
To the east of Pheasant, File and Touchwood Hills there is a Hno t.-act of land
prmcipally prairie on the south and east, but gradually passing into a more thickly
wooded and more elevated country to the north. The northern pa. t of this traot is
well watered with running streams, but towards .he south, lato in tho season, water
is obtained with difficulty.'
Professor Macoun describes the soil a. a rich black loam, about 15 inches i»
depth, containing small grains of quartz and limestone and other pebbles. Approach-
ing the File and Touchwood Hills its character imperceptibly changes into lighter
colored^ sandy loam. The subsoil, into which pits were dug at various .oints. i.
18
•^ -.«».... „:„;;::::::::::;:;:::r'"" — --.-
I'ora iho l.oiid of Lon- Laky to the (Jiiill fz-kos Thin s.l.
plain IS Htill un.JoCinoJ • h,.t Vf. vr ihisMuli
-- -«. .,, :: ;„:::::::::: '"; '"" "■:'*• ■■ •-- '■-'™^ ^- »
It ii pmlialjlo lliM tlio ^rook wliich entn,^ r .. r i
•".'J' -.-.y I. 11,0 .,„„.i of ,j„„, L.,„, „ „„, .„ „,.^,,^__„^
~ZT'T '°''"""'°"' ""' °"^ '"""■ "' "'° ■^--"»<' «'"•■ '«
, I ', ' ' """"' °' ""^ ""^"' °'"»- '^« *"' '«'■«• "-. He
R™-„ai„.„m,ie„t,„,.„uti..ro...hoa.e„r.,o.H.,., i„„„„a ,„„,. „„,,,„,
..««..„ ,„..„„,. „,.„e ...HO, W. ,. t„. .„ .,, .,„ ., ,,,_. n
'I.i .. .t ,» .ca^oo. T,,. „™ ,0 ... „.,, ,,„ .„„ „,„„^.,,„, „, ,^^ °
.cod .,.^,. ,„, „,„■„, p„,,,„ „„^ ,„ ,„^„„^ ,.^ ,„ ^^ "
to frcqui
do not c
Thee„,.„t,., „o,.., „Hhe Q„.App,„„, „, ,„. s„,„h «„t..ch.„a„ i, .pp™.„h„,
tivelvarid Tf „^f . , locality is dompara-
■veb and It extends northward along the South Saskatchewan fo. son. distance
and about latitude 51° 30' becomes hilly and broken. '
wooded, and interspersed with ponds of fresh water.
The
I twenty r
■ wood am
1 rolling h
I
I The I
dance of
ningstrei
Lake, to t
agricultui
The J
tain some
is to be fo
11)
soH iiiio t,'iavol, coi4to.|
:ilitioH, butttt no points
til it roiK-lios the nail
iiiili L'lu).^. This Nult
.0, n,a, i, ™„, „ „„„,„ „„.„„,, ^^^^ ^^^_,^^ _^_^^^^ ^
t,ll .t ga„., .ho vi,,„i,^ onH. E,b„„e, .b„ N„„h Sa,l<u.„le™,.
■ midway botweon tho rivers.
H noi-tli-oustorn oxtro-
lis is iioiirly ail gooJ,
■»eaHon, aro partially
jtifit for uso. j
Touclnvood Hills, Im
uill Lalfos from tho
■ culinary purposes.
nJ in tlio northern
f Phoanant and File ;
tho hills, on which
thout wood.
-""* IU.„„.i„„., „r„ ..„„ ,„„„ f„ ,« „„„ „.„,„ „„^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^
B...I. I!,v.r, wl„o„ „«.„d f,.™ tho 10,th moHJian ,„ .h. „Uh .eHdian.
Th»,.p,„™ ,„„.i„„„ „„.„„„,„.,,„ „,„,„^ „^„_^ They hav. boo,, ,,f.,.od
00 not confirm these views.
j J"" "l"""- ""«-<' ".« "»=h«™ pa« Of tbi. „„o,„rv, di,.ri„. keeping about
-«n..n>„„..o .bo oonh „r U,e M.t pa™„e,. „o ,o„„d .be oou„.,^ Cube.
j ~ -.--. .ove, ,„«, ..™.. .be ,0,., „be„ . beoa.e /.Ho. .
I ^-^ ■";;«-«'■»*-«'■ The e„.e,. po...i„„, .„ .bo „„„b..e,. of liod I,e,r
parallel. Further 1 ^'"'®' ^^ ^^^ I^oa'" Hills, about latitude 52^ is described a, n .. . „ •
"^ ' "* aesciibed as a country well suited for
or t,ho,.»nK^,.fo agriculture.
wan is approached,
icality is nompara-
for some distance,
i
0', or thereabouts, ^
agriculture.
>n.pa«.i„,, „o„ J Tbe Be., Hi,,, and .bo w....,„ „„pe, of .be Eagle Hi,,,, .„bo„gb rough co.
^.n »me e.oo„oo. .oi,, good p..,„„ .„a ah„„da„„e of fresh ,a.o,. Wooi in io„.^
«s to be found on the Eagle Hills. "
I:
u
M... M.cou„ travot-Ho-i tho g.oat plain BoiJ^h^J^^^^^ei^^ ,
the Hand Hills, and fb.n.l a A^rtilo and ahnost level plain extending fb. 40 mile. ^^
M
water i
Tc
'Hoil im
longitu
' for agr
but the
Th
contain
Wi
18 level
Bow Ri
Th«
,, „ . ' -v—v^.Mj^ lur tu miles 5
Bouth-west of the Kaglo Kill.; the countiy here became rolling and hill^, but no bad '
soil was met with until about the 11 Ith meridian. |
There yet remains a large extent of the Great Plains unexplored, but as far as
Been east of the llUh meridian they are described as consisting of a strong rich clay
or clay loam, on almost every locality examined.
Fresh water in pools was found throughout in August and September, and fro.
plants found in the ponds. Mr. Macoun feels assured that the supply of water is
permanent.
Only one creek oi-running water was seen on this plain. Many salt lakes or
ponds were also found among the hills in the central and south-western portion No
s.gns of aridity caused by climate were observed. On every part of the tract south
of latitude 52'= excellent arable or pasture land prevailed. 3
North of .he Noutml Hi,,, „„„„.,«. 52» 10 .„d,„„gi..ae„(,o3„, .„,,,,.„ji ligh, ,.
w«w«,. .0 Within 5 „,i,o, orfcttlo Kive,. is . ..-aotof poo. ,a„d, ,a„d, ch.„,i.g .,1 ^ ,
the northward to good sandy loam.
which a
Light and heavy sandy loam is the prevailing character of the soil between the - ,
52nd parallel and JiatUo IHvor. " '°
I the land
NearBattlefo.d there are sand hills covering a limited area. With this and ' the nort
some other exceptions the whole district is described as suitable for agriculture. difficult
Exceedingly rich soil is found in the vicinity of Manito Lake some sixty miles Apr
to the west of Battleford.
i and terr
and is w
For some distance to the west of the lllth Meridian and to the north and east
of Red Deer River the country is arid, the soil being generally gravelly or sun-baked j ^"*
cJay- m and Edm
Several creeks of fresli water run through this district, there ai-e also numerou, I ^'Z ■']■
alkaline, marches and ponds. The plains produce indifferent pasture. Artemisia and I
Cactus are prominent among the flora of this district ' ''"^ '' ^
21
from Battlofonl toward, '^"''' "^ "'° """ •"' "'° ^''"'^ ^^^"' ^''^"^ latitude 51° 30' and on the olovatod lands
extending for 40 mile, 'i'""'^™"^ '' "^ ^^'" character, with a growth of excellent gra,.«. Ponds of good fresh
rig and hilly, but no bad
■water are frequent.
To the north or al.out the 52nd parallel the character of both the country and
lexplorod, but as far as '""'' '•"P™^'^«- ^I^^h good land and very fair timber is seen around Tail Creek between
ig of a strong rich claj '''°S''"'^*^ 1^-° '•*"'i. ^^.^ The country extending north to Battle River is well suited
^for agriculture. To the eastward the soil is indiflerent and the surface more broken
I but the country ih suited for pasture.
J September, and from
lie supply of water is • ^he country north of latitude 52" is well watered with running streams, and
^contains more or less woodland, but the groves are no whore continuous
I
Many salt lakes or ^^°-^t of Red Deer River, in the direction of the Blackfoot Crossing, the country
b-western portion. No ,i« l«^el for several miles, becoming rolling and more broken to the southward as
•art of the tract south ^"^ River is approached.
il0°30' and extending
iidy land, changing to
f the soil between the
The land botweoa the two rivers is generally sandy loam and appears to have a
light rain -fall.
A little west of the crossing within the Blackfool Reserve is a range of sand-hills,
which apparently extend south of the River.
Prom this point to about 20 miles west of Fort Calgarry, a distance of 80 miles,
I the land is described as nearly all fit for the plough on both sides of Bow River. On
n-ea. With this and ; ^^^ "orth of the river between the Blackfoot Crossing and Calgarry, water was found
I for agriculture. difficult to obtain.
■ke some sixty miles Approaching the Rocky Mountains the country becomes broken by high hills
I and terraced ridges, but the whole of this land, though rough, produces fine pasture
I and is well adapted for stock-raisiog.
) the north and east i
:ravelly or sun-baked l ^'""^ ^'^'"'"''"^ '' ''^'''''''^ '''^"''^ ^"^'^""^^ ^^°' '<>"yitude 114°. Between that point
I and Edmonton the land for a very considerable breadth is generally a dark coloured
I clay or sandy loam well suited for agriculture, excepting whore it is too wet. Much
3 are also numerous « «*>♦!• j- ^ • ^ . „,
j of this district north of latitude 52° is either covered with willow bushes or small
ire. Artemisia and < ,
, poplar, with occasional groves of good-sized spruce and balsam poplar along the rivers.
fa
22
general ly L'ood Tho ,r,.„„,„ . ""'^ '"'^^'^^'^^''^^van ,s described a.s ,? r
y fc<'0(i. iijo greater portion i.s woll 8,ipp|,cd with r,-, .f . ^"
wood for fuel and /oncing. Ti.oro arc ,oc " "' ^^'' "'^°'°'^' <-"' -
other parts brackish. "'^ "'°" "^^<^'- ''« « -^<i in
The district between the B.aver mil. and Fort Pitt .Wves' in r r ^
wet and requiring draina..o Tl,o «„ u '"J-cations of being , Th,
.^nora,, of good agricltlr"'" ^^^^ ""^^"^°" "' "^^'^^ ^^^^ ^'^ -
'ilovatec
Timber. F '' '^'^
"•- -.■„ .„. .,..„ „„ „„„, :::r:;:;;::::,;!r:;:r "'^. ^"" **' ;
and in a fcwgi,ilic..s. "" ''""'^» ot the large rivers fxtremel
fendered
^Much tine timber, consisting of sp:^uee and Douglas Pino I. f . , ^'^i^^^'^ *«
flanics of the JloHvv Afnnn. • .. ^ ^ ' ^ '""""^ ''^'""S the
Coai ««(/ Iron.
'^'. Hv«,. „ „.,. „ : I '7" '" "'^'- *=^"-™» '»™ ^=».. Ota.,.™, „„
«o-h „, w Ki::;:: r"' ; "'"° "■•° ™""" "■°" "- - - -^ '- "..*
23
H-clunviui Is describe'.! as
sh water, with sufficient
water is .scarce aid ia
ves indications of being
vicinity of the Willow
and Battleford concists
void of timber. Ti>i»
ling westerly from the
distance of fully 400
'8 of the large rivers
>, is found along the
i down many of the
III a (ow years it
1 the plains.
lowM tho river near
been observed on
1 of 18 to 20 feet is
01186 on an affluent
been traced to the
'•oe to six feet thick.
Fort McLood coal
. Brown nodular iron-stone is reported irom various localities in connection wUh
coal and shales, but nut as yet in workable ciuantities.
THE RAILWAY UOUTE WEST OP RED RIVER.
The railway route west of Red liiver, recommended in former reports, followed a
^..use north-west from Selkirk, crossed Lake Manitoba at tho Narrows, and skirted
|e northern spurs of the Duck Mountains; it passed through a depression in tho
|ovated ground, and reached tho prairie plateau near the source of the Assiniboine.
f h.s location is, however, abandoned. The Government have given tho preference
to a line which will pass to the south of Lake Manitoba, and follow the course Of
present settlement south and west of the Riding Mountains.
It was determined early in , he season to place under contract tho first 100 miles
^ction west of Rod River, ineludin, a branch to the City of Winnipeg. The
extremely level character of the portion of the Province of Manitoba, to be traversed
fendered it an easy matter to carry the lino in any direction. It was, however, an'
¥wt to find a dry location, and ,0 select a route which promised to be of greatest
Jernument advantage, and which would involve least charge for the right of waj
^ in June last, surveys were commenced to establish the route from the western
foundary of the Province of Manitoba, and thence north-westerly towards the River
|askutchewan. A general reconnaissance of the district has been made, and two
fnes surveycl ; one running west, and terminating four miles beyond Fort Ellice,
on the Assiniboine; the second, on leaving the Province of Manitoba, taking a
torth-westerly course to Birdtail Creek. A third was projected to run from tho
|ommon starting-point to the confluence of the Little Saskatchewan and the River
|Hsmiboine. This line gave pron,ise of favorable gradients on a section which
|lt.mately might be used for coal tralHc, but tho first had the advantage in respect to
liiieage on the through route.
I The Government held that it was more important to continue the line which
|llowed the general course of .settlement along tho western slope of the Riding
«|ountain, especially as it proved to be 20 miles shorter than the southern route.
he north-western route was therefore adopted by Order in Council, dated 22nd Jan.
24
•■.1^'
*
During tho past .season Mr. MacLeod f r..,. . i
of the Im. belween B„ttIofort „„d Yollo, Head Pas, On ,1 «
: :r::r■■°""^"'"'°"°-*™''-■■----^-
ing the old line near River Pemhino wi . ' -f leiMeu .
deviation c.n In . .• "'"'• ^''^" ^'^"^^^uctlou approaches this section tU
<lav.at.on can he kept ,n view and the location amended. |
BRIDOINQ RED RIVER.
Selkirk ha, l,„„ recommended by me ., the pomt .t „b,,_.t fi,. a™,
mo,iadvantascou,lybebridi.cd TM ■ . ,■ « ™'l" Ked B,vor e«
theriew f •,. ■^° """«"'• ^'"" 1"»"">' "«l"« ha, been ■■ecommended win
h ™w of av„,d,n« a„ co„.i„,eney of i„.e„,pt,„n to .raffle by innndaUon., and th
z:r::::~" -"* — v»ood,a„d..tbo;_
The.„bjeeti,f„„ydi,o„„»iin my „port of 8.h I.ecembe. ,879, „W„b „i„
i i: ::::: : "- '-^ '"^^^"'' ^ "''-^«-' ^-^ -»-» ^-=' ■«" ™- .i
.. et a b,.,d«e „p„„„.e .b.t ,.^, „ .^,,. „^„ ^^,^
bil.ty m connection with the «rnctu,e.
.pp.y ZI ' ™"?'°"' ""' '"° '"" '°"° "^ "° "°™-- ""^"^ -^ ^ '»■" "^
.pply U, the con..r„c..„n Of . bridge aero,, the Ked Ri.er at any point north of th. '
International boundary line, a, follows:- o tn ot u,,,
littler pir°"°""°"" """'""""■'■--«'"-- --1
on west of Red River. A I
I
tho appendix, I
lich will raatorially lesse' t
How Head Pass. On tl, ^
magnitude, at tho crosHiDi |
, Buffalo and Grizzly Boa
bviatedand the main rive
irso west of Batlleford t
a Eiver, finally intersect s>
jproachos this section thv I
I
t which Bed River car j
been recommended will I
I
by inundations, and tht |
I
is and for other reason^ .;
nber, 1879, which, witt
)n being still under COD
has determined to con
5 all risk and rosponsi
t which may be held to|
iiny point north of the ;
•t of the river, and noi ■
50 interfciod with
10 8
tl
nil-.
L.
ii; «
!)[ ^
51
so
I ^WlttU'-T' •
/
107
\f^ %*t'■*''(|»^^^•»''•i^'»
106
IDS
104
103
loa
Stinlri"
'^ Y
''■^■■^.
..fl^;^-^.^^.?,.,;*. L.->»^'-^^^" i*
lOl
k ^^i \
'V/,
^H^hiv. ""■*''"""
rf."'
"'W,
giveeiudf ; \
-:■" ^,<^^
%.^
i ,'■"
-1 w^^'^' /^o^-fv. v
Vf's' ■."ii.>?f ( 1 "V ■> "■■•■ -r-
f V if. a„, ; ■}
ipitHn.^- \ '■":■■ I J
•'■ \vki'*sc ''■"'■ ■"■■'J?' ■'-•,""•...,
f; .-■•-^,,.>„„,i, 'V,,,, ,1 '*(;„„J
;M5
108
108
HiU'^HA ^^- )^>^
— • •"V-:-:;-„.. ■.■■-.■ :-W-,-r„i^ ^'•m.iil'/) . \
'' . \ — -—-^ *, Ho""* • — , ^s \
^ v' \ '•■■i^'^ -V-
V -*^-.,\ \ .-'■^ -t
^
\
104
O
103
, JiLIM-l-
102
LOii
/l^f" \
»4
PLAN
OF PART OF THE LINE OF LOC^s
UK TUB
. CANADIAN PACIFIC R
^^y.sT of lakic SLJi'i-raoi!.
v..,„ !■
^:
(ISil.'
/
i^ 'i^S!,
,viW" ■■- .c-^.
»
yflic*
sa
-"^^i., '" C<:;;^
gns^is,
'^rt
I i-'-'j
V'^.
f
- \
lj
\^ ^-
...-■■ .a*'^'
'1-^
•'1
-V
\'1
? Ji^*: ?
v.* *« b
:\
.\-'-
ii
^w
■-1
i:
r>
103
/■
1^^ t \.\ S ■'"•''
V- \
K ^fi/'
/'
x-
\^^'
i,(i»*T
SU""
iTff-'*"
at'
<*,
{^o
<'-v\
:-V:
^
w
.J-
. ItLvfJ^
102
iOl
100
86
Plate No. 4. To
uccomp'xn,) Rp.i>on „/ th,' EiHiimrrin-Chl.-f, Cowulian Padric Iluilwai/, 1880.
PHOTO UTH BY THt BURLANO LITM CO MONTRCAL
25
3.d. That any obstruction t., the flow of tl.e wu..- caused Uy piorn, shall bo co.„-
pen..ftted as fur as pnicticablo i,y increasing the water-way.
^ 4th. That the undorHide Of the bridge nball bo hi.hor than the highest known
food level.
3th. That the uavigati.m .,f the river ^haii „ot bo obstructed.
SCEVEVS AND EXPLORATIONS I.V TUK W..ODLAND REQIOJf.
Surveys have boon continued to establish the most desirable location for the
*.bs,di.ed section of the Canada Centra. liaiiway. The necessity for determining the
^o„.t at Luke Nipi^ing. at Which connection With .ho n.uin line can bo advantage
Ously made, became more urgent as the work advanced.
The Canada Contra! Extension con^mencos at Pembroke, where it connects with
4he p.ese„t railway system. The line runs parallel to the Kiver Ottawa, at no great
.l^tance from it, until itgains the Mattawa, the valley of which it follows until it
reaches Lake Nipissing.
Tho.nfomaUo,, p,.vi„„,Iy „b.ai„.d pointed ,„ ,„„u,.Ea,t l!a^, „, the mo,.
^«.,W..o,™i„.,„„i„„„l,,3j,.,,,„^,^^^^__„_^^_^^^_ ,„^ ,„^^ ^^^„ ^^^^^_
1^ .« o„ tho ..„„pti„„ .k.. Sou.b.E„,.B„^ „o„yfo™ .b. p„i„t Of .„„„o.«„„
l^^een ,ho ...IKv„,„„d navigation. Tb. C.„,u,a Cen.a, R„i,„., ,„..,,. ,,,, ,„„,.
directed to this point,
A prcll„,ina,.j, location ,„„ey ba, ben n,n,le ,V„„> s „ab.E„t B„y. „„,.,,.
»...»]y. along Lako Nipi»,ing, to a point onStu-goon Bivc, about 60 n.ilo. distant.
S.„„., bav. boon n,a,.e „, F..o„ch Hivo., „i,b tb. .iew „f ^nd.ring i, n.vig-
£bio b, th. constrncion of loclt, and.datn. and > lino of canal wh.™ ..„,„i,.od. It
i- a. one .i„„ tbought tbat .he Nation of a can., b, .ay of P„„ch Hi„r would
*ep,,e,.ab.e for tb, purpose of reaching late Huron to the con..ruc.,on of .be
peorgian Bay Branch.
bo.. ofLalte N,p„.i„g. Tbe.e ,.,a„,„a.i„n. have been under.ak.n in order ,„
!««-..,„ ,f the ntain ,i„e ,,,^ ,,.,„„^. ^,„ ^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^ ^ ^__ .^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^
ti
loins »»li.f,clorilj- mado will, s„„|t s7^, ~T ^'==^==
common diHtanco for a,,^- ^,,,,^ „^,^.„^_ *''" ^'^'^ ''««« to run over a
The examination hus o,sift|,iisho,I fi,„. „
Tiie projeotof connectin.' tl... n.;!.., ,
win .ulmii „n„„ „„„,,,, „, , ^'""'•''^"' '■"""'■T- Suci, „ .„„.„„
n.«y diclulo. ^ ' ""'' "'™ '"" «l>oap to„,p„,t«io„
On lh« co„,ple,l„„ „r ,t, „„„ f^,^
«..' to S»m, St. M.,.y, ,„ „„„„„. „i,, '" '""""■''• » '-"""V from CU,
•^l..lon„, .„, , „„„ , :l"J " ■;- »^" -•' '—-'»-. fro. C,..t„™ „,.
We hoTo not yot suffieiont data to snoak of ,1,
There is ground for the belief tf,«f fk
of lake Suponor, would attract traffic fro„> D„,„n .„, ^^
new
now
jfbi I
8a II I
in Ml
Cters
liehm
thruu
of Lai
Mnry.
connui
All th
outlets
Md th
ftU 8oa.'
Su
lAke.
oharact
2»
I'lly prolonging oithor tli„
ivorable for conHtruction ;
e tvro linos to run over a
""ioithofLakoNipisHin-
, «nd that a favorable route
Tiinion by a branch line
'«. and muHt oxorciHe an
""t'7- Such a sehonie
•navigiroLakoSuporioi-,
^•oi«:ht md passengers.
« on the lower lakes is
'^■'iko St. Clair present a
nfinod to the navigation
t cheap transportation
rk, a railway hum tho
i-s on Lake Superior,
rth-Wost. During the
ft would bo the most
563 from Customs reg.
Qd cheap transit than
le opening and closing
ake maj bo navigated
deep and open water,
an on the rivora and
ine to the navigable
from Duluth and the
»! cuiiying, ,inj faciliiio, |\,r rui,i,l JmchnM,.., , , >-»lwC'ty
*'■" '""'"' "' """ '"'-'- "" "•"- « .' » ^^™c. .0 „„,.„.„„, „,, ;„:::
i Tho facilities for biidtrin.r tlin Rivn,.af nr .,, ,
uL, " ^^''"''St- Mary w,ll doubtless soon lead in thoosf.b
*..«..,,.„»„,„„„„« .«.,.,„,.,,.„,,,,,,.„„„,,,.„, ^,,„..^^^,,,;'
- .. S.,„,.,„, .«„„a ,„ ,,e.„„ba, . p„,„.„„, „„„,,„„ ,,„ „„„,
2' ".» - . .o™ oft... M,c,„«a„, . „„,a e,.„,„„„.„,„ „„„„,„„ ^,„ .,.^^^^
I*ko. The exan.mat.on has established that a lino of . . .
„k i ■ ' ^' " modera e V favorable
character, can bo obtained. «".oia/ju
OONSTHUCTION.
-.. «.„.e,.,a ;„.„ ,„„ .„, ,,^„^^ ,,,._^^^^^_ Sup,.o,.oB,.iU.„Co,.r
W„„Io,, .„ .ha. „.,.„,„ „„„„ ,, ,„„,„,,,^_, ^^^ ™„ai„i„g section .cos,
*o mountaia, .„ Bri.l,h Columbia remain, i„e„„p,e,e.
... ti,o ,a.e .ear .Su. the «„^i„, .f .^e Pembina Braneb f„, «3 mile, nortl „f
Ime.-..at,o„al Bound,uy „a, conu,,o„ced In 1817 ,1,. „.^-
Bkirt,,,,,. •■. "'""". 'no gfading was extended to
pK.it under the same contract and in ii!7a .t . ,
„,,!,,. ' "'"' " ■"*' ""> '">«!' "M l«id on the whole length
28
In 1874, thoexlonsion of tho Canada Central. Eailway to tlio eastern terminus
near i.uko ^Xi'i-ishiiig was hulmidizcicl.
Towards the end on 874, 50,000 tons of steol rails with the necessary fasten-
injjs were purchancd.
Karly in 1875 two Hoctio?iH wore placed under contract. No. 13 extending we.-^t of
Fort William, the work terminating at Sunshine Creek 32 miles distant; and No. 14
from Selkirk east to Cross Luke, 11 miles. These contracts embraced grading,
culverts and bridging.
An extension east of Cross Lake 36 miles to Keewatin, at the outlet of Lake of
the Woods, was placed under contract in January, 1877. This contract (No. 15)
included the grading on .Section 15, and the track-laying and ballasting on Sections
14 and 15, in all 112 miles oast of Selkirk.
In 1876 a contract (No. 25) was made for an extension from Sunshine Creek west
to English Hivei-, (80 miles) embracing the grading and bridging for that distance,
together with track-laying and ballasting on Section 13. The whole distance from
Fort William to English River being 113 miles.
In 1878 the fJeorginn Bay Branch was undertaken. This work was subsequently
abandoned.
The engi.ie house at Port William was contrac ed for in 1876; that at Selkirk
in 1878.
In the Spring of 1879 the lino between Keewatin and English Eiver, 185 miles
was let in two Contracts, Nos. 41 and 42, for grading, bridging and track-laying.
In the summer of 1879, a section of 100 miles west of Red River, includincr »
branch from the main lino to tho City of Winnipeg was placed under contract.
An additional supply of 39,000 tons of steel rails and fastenings was secured in
1879.
The grading, bridging, track-laying and ballasting in British Columbia, from
near Yale to Savona'a Perry, a distance of about 127 miles, were placed under contract
towards tho close of 1879.
T
I It is not
I
i curves v
I Thelim
I and it is
I alignme
* The
duced froi
29
lio oiiBtern terminus
fio necessary faston-
3 extending w&at of
distant; and No. 14
embraced grading,
e outlet of Lake of
contract (No. 15)
lasting on Sections
Sunshine Creek west
for that distance,
?bole distance from
•k was subsequently
6; that at Selkirk
1 Eiver, 185 miles
d track-laying.
Eiver, including a
ier contract.
gs was secured in
jh Columbia, from ]
iced under contract 1
The length of line now under contract consists of the f,,llowiag sections:
Fort William to Selkirk, (main lino) 4^10 mile. *
Emerson to Selkirk, (Pembina branch) gS "
West of Red Eiver (main line and Winnipeg branch).. 100 •■
In British Columbia, (main line) jv^ «
Total under construction >j-_2 «
Tenders are now invited for a second 100 miles section west of Eed Eiver This
will make a total lengt, . 822 miles under construction, consisting of main line
720 miles, Pembina and Wi.inipog branches 102 miles.
The rails are laid 13G miles west of Fort William, and 00 miles east of Sel-
kirk. Traffic trains are regularly run from Emerson to Cross Lake, 161 miles.
I The importance of securing cheap transportation between the Prairie Eegioa
and the eastern markets has been kept prominently in view in establishing the rail-
way between Selkirk and Lake Superior. I have in previous reports described the
efforts made from the beginning of the survey to attain this object.
In my report of last year (p. 18), I referred at some length to the subject and
drew attention to the fact that the Government had placed under contract the whole
distance east of Eed Eiver on a location definitely established with gradients so light
and favorable that cheap transportation is assured for all time to come.
This important condition is not attained without difficulty. At some points it has
involved heavier works than steeper gradients would have rendered necessary, but
these points are remarkably few, and the increased expenditure, compared with that
of the whole line is small. The advantage gained will amply compensate forthe
extra expenditure incurred..
Low gradients are not considered of equal importance on other sections of the line.
It is not proposed to adhere to the principle in British Columbia. The grades and
curves will be there determined by the physical obstructions which present themselves.
The limitation observed will take a much wider range, in oi-der to avoid expenditure,
and it is proposed, as far as practicable, to lighten the work by accommoJating the
alignment and gradients, as far as it can be done, to the features of the ground.
d«cedfrl"rmile'!'°^ ""''"**'* "" Section 41, by which it is expected the di.twce will be re-
t'
30
!l-
ROLLING STOCK. M
StepH have boon take., to dotormine the best ntanclard for the rolling stock ] ' ^
is important to have but one, or at most two, typos of locomotive, so that the parts ' ^2 i°
may be of a constant pattern and inter-changeable. With other kinds of rollin.J
«tock, as with locomotives, it is desirable to have as little variation of details ^ I
practicable, so that in the event ot injury, the damaged portions may readily bo |
rei^laced from the general store, with as little labor in fitting as possible. f
Acting under the authority given me, Mr. Charles Blackwell was instructed to "
^is.t the several locomotive and car establishments and the railway workshops in
Canada and the United States, and to report on the character of rolling stock best S
adapted for this work.
The experience of Mr. Tandy, Inspector of rolling stock ou the Intercolon
Railway, was also enlisted.
lal
Their reports are appended. Plans and specifications, and working drawings of
the standard Iccomotive, and the different classes of cars are in course of prepa-
ration. ' '
Tenders will be received on the 1st of July for the rolling stock which will bo
required during the next four years.
OENERAL SERVICES.
The following services also call for consideration at an early period :
1. Watering stations at frequent intervals along the line.
2. Additional engine-houses to be at points from 100 to 1.50 miles apart, to meet
the exigencies of tiaffic.
3. Machine and repair shops.
4. Elevators and grain stores at the terminus on Lake Superior.
5. Subsidiary station elevators for collecting grain, as necessity may determine.
«. Station-houses and auxiliary buildings.
All these works, on a defined and sufficient basis, are indispensable to the sue «
cessful working of the lino, and to the accommodation of public traffic. With these 1
results in view their provision cannot bo long delayed .
Ad(
ation is a
30a
the rolling stock. It
iivo, so that the parts
ithei- kinds of rolling
variation of details, as
n-tions may readily bo
^ possible. I
'oU was instructed to
railway workshops in
• of rolling stock best
on the Intercolonial
working drawings of
in course of prepa-
: stock which will be
CONTIUCTS.
At the date Of my report of last year (5th April), the .several contracts were
. 4.mnumber; s.nce then 23 additional contrapts have been entered into vi. •-.
Contract No. 43.-Por Equipping and working the Pembina Eranch ." '
44 Supply of 2.000 tons steel rails and fish-plate..
" 1,500 " „
1,500 " ,,
bolts and nuts.
■ period :
miles apart, to meet
rior.
lity may determine.
onsable to the suc-
traffic. With these
45
46
41
48
49
50
5i
52
53
54
55
Grading and track-laying, lirst 100 miles section
west of Red Biver. '
Erection of station buildings, Pembina Branch.
Supply of 700 tons of spikes.
35 tons of bolts and nuts.
Transportation of 4,000 tons of rails and fastening,
to Fort William.
j Supply of 34,000 tons of steel rails and fastenings.
56.—
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
An iron bridge for the Pembina Branch.
Supply of r.ailway switches, frogs and switch-gearing.
Furnishing and erecting Turn-tr.bles.
100,000 ties for second 100 miles section
west of Red liivor.
Grading and bridging, f,om near Yale to Boston Bar
" Boston Bar to Lytton.
Lytton to Junction Flat.
" Junction Flat to Savona's Ferry.
Temporary bridge over Eed Rive.-, at Winnipeg.
Four lirst-class cars and one official car.
1 IS nnT»onrlnr^
ation is appended
I have the honor to be, Sir,
Your obedient servant
SAND FORD H
£
EMING,
'ngineer-
Chief.
INSTl
Memora
■^ 1. •
^etermi
;iany of t
I 2. [
Ithie sub
ing the*
3. ]
4 ivory o:
jLeod, K
Jcxaminc
^he steal
an arran
inust be
J)articulj
n enter!
4. M
Port Sin
Cambie, '
Messrs. 1
5. M
Connelly
pation, a
pan bo foi
phe Slieei
l»f Peace .
district.
6. M
|he Siieec
iialie sucl
|ind in ore
7. II
Ixaminati
pe will ox
8. AI
|o, he will
lormed th
lionH in R
legard to
23-
31
APPENDIX No. 1.
INSTRUCTIONS OP THE ENnrwppn rxr ,,TTr„„
I
Canadian Pacjific Railway,
Office op the Enoineeimn-Ciiiep,
12th May, 1879.
Memorandumof instructions for Mr. IL J CamhlP v. ■
£eteiSi;^Sli:;'^Sr befol^l^cf^ obUin definite data to
fny of their tributaries, to Port Simpson ^ ■^'^^'" ""*^ ^^° ^'^«'' Skeena or
ing the result desired. "^^ '*'* ^° "jo best mode of obtain-
3. Mr. Cambio is aware of the charaetoi- nf thn „„
very ofthe supplies utl^rt St. Jamr Ho wil^^^^^^ ^'' th« do-
Deod, Keefer and Gordon to Port Simpson byIei„oTf'-'°?°-' T'/^ *^^««^- M^"^'
3xamination be made of the Harbor and Wark In o( if i '" ^^'^l''"';'® ^hat personal
he steamboat to place it at his disposal for so doinc^" it w If .''", '"'^k,*'^" "^"P^"'" «f
m ari-angeraont to that effect. But should t ev, n^nlf V " ^.r,'™"^'" ^^ enter into
^ust be taken by which the character oth. nlZZn t^^Tr^u '", '^ '"• '''P'
^particularly of importance to learn if Zv sSlTm l^"" ^''^^^ '■""^^"- It is
n entering Wark Inlet from the ocean ^ ' Uifccult.os present themselves
4. Mr. Gamble will leave Mr. Geo Koof^v ...,,1 1 • . ... .
Port Simpson to make certain c^^^nin.^i^'/tre^ftl^"'" ^he neighborhood of
^:U^^^^S:^^ ^--' «^<eena%S7^rSt.'S,i! icco'^-p^an'^ ^bj
^^^''^'^^eoS:\^';:^J^,{^^^ the country between Fort
>tion,andsotoascertainifapas8agifora SJ^^ P°';t'«" ""'•''• of the River
.tan be found between one side <k iA^^^t^^^tC^"^ ''■:;'''''^''V ^'''"''^^t^'-.
fhe Skeena m the inmediatenoighbo.'hoo(lo7TSrn?.' .^'l'"' ""^ ^''« "^'"'"ch of
I Pe^ River, or by any o^^^^^^^n^tt^l^^t^l^^y;^;^^
:he^e^srKi^isriSi:;?rs;r^;-sr'';;" ^'-^'^ ^°^--
nake such measurements as may bo nece sari o oitnl i- ?^k"' ^''° ^^^ion. Ho will
^nd m order to determine what routes suTtalL^n^N*' ^^"^ ""^ure of the country,
7. I have given Mr. Hore 2I v vori,' ;,? f^ T^ "" ™'''''''^' '"•^' 'Available. •^'
examinations o'f this district ^^oni^''e;",\*^^rioroftl,""'" /"" ""^ ^-^'^-^^tivo
10 will explore the country between Fort Conno r^^nH ^ '^x^'"' t"n« will admit,
8. Although Mr. Horotzky hat been snecii/yr^t/ h^'T ^T"" *« ^'^^^ "««''"•
Jo, he will, in any question of iuirtri^Si/^/r".^ ^"'" ^^^^ *^°''^'«° ^'oferred
formed that he must look to you as the tonS oS, t"' ' •^""- . "^ '"^'^ been in-
lions in BritiBh Columbia, and be ^vmi bv voui I L''""=T f '"' ^^' ^"^^^"^'"a-
egard to^he explorations, the r^^ttJoZi^'.^^^^^^^^ with
82
9. It is the dosiro of the Government that the country should with as WHU
10. Instructions have been sent to Messrs. MacLeod and Gordon to accomnanv
Mr. Gamble and to co-operate with him in this examination. accompanj
fl vfJ. „■ u f 'V^'"' ''"'",'>' "J"^'^ ^"'^ an-angements to carry oiu the details as set
E.ver Mr MacLeod has instructions what course to take, having ^rved it th
Sn eoi^enSv S? .™ r° '."'"'■"'"""'I "•t"'l> ""J' by U.is limo, l.afs been gaZod
and to carry out certain special instructions which he has received.
«nH i""' ^°'"^^ ^r^' '^'" f^'ompany Mr. Gamble to British Golumbia as accountant
and his services will be made available in connection with the oneSns of Mr r^,'
Keefer, respecting which special instructions will be furnished ^ * ^'"'
r.„f -J, •'' ""T ''^^'^'«"^' a««istant8 be required, Mi-. Gamble will use his own dis
Inv nnf rfnT'^'^f "^"'■'"■'"^'"^'V'^ ^"^^ gentleman available in BHtish CoTumb
pa°d om ^ ' '"^ """^ ""'' ^' '^'"1^'"^'^^'' ^''^ '^'^ ^■'^l'«^«d of their duUes ami
exam^nation™^^' '''" ''P''* "' frequently as possible during the progress of the
S. F.
12th May, 1879.
Memorandum of instructions for Mr. H. A. F. MacLeod.
...r.J^l'- ^;.^" ^' ^f'^^'^eod will accompany Mr. Gamble from Canada, and will act ir
^Zp::'S!Z:^''''' "■'"■^' '^ ^'^ Englneer.in-Ghief, between tnl^Z
ihc.}' 'fl^^'^^'^'^'^-— J ts character; the nature of the current: its anchorage • anr
the feasibility ol a connection, at the head of the inlet, for sea-going vessels with
railway hne up the Elver Skeena. ""-^feoiug vessels, with a
of \/ark^In*iet".''^'°° ^^ ^'"""^ '''^''''" ^''''' ^'™P'°° ^"'^ *^« '«t^°i"« at the hea.
x>\&tL^^^^r^f^^V^^■''''^'^7^^^^^ Sk°«"^ to the centre
bistdct. Columbia, and thence across the mountains to the Peace ^01
4. Mr. MacLeod will remain in company with Mr. Gamble actluff wifh him nk
5.
Lis act
formec
data k
6.
operat(
its feat
n.
it by w
Peace .
8.
Eiver J
for exa
9.
.aminat:
and the
the loe
Elver, i
are rea
10.
he full i
depth, t
and sue
11.
Chief, ti
details i
embraci
and witl
12.
it is to
therefor(
threaten
are abso
other m*
of this r(
13.
Dawson,
parallel,
the praci
Eiver or
Bouthesk
14. .1
thence in
iA-thabasc
Tapper a
On n
Gamble n:
Is to be sei
pack trai
|)robably
i Mr. 3
■fcfthe56t
iight and
lake everj
^hysicftl c
Jithabasca
12a
33
■ should, with as little
t eligible route Dotween
le Rivor, may be fully
Gordon to accompany
peratewith the Pacific
peoially in the Rocky
•ery assistance will bo
ijcd.
QUI the details as set
:)8sibly before reaching
id Gordon to the Peace
having arrived at thii,
Pass, so that a complete
innipeg to Edmonton,
n this pack train will be
no, have been gathered.
a full report, up to
1 at once by the pack
rest telegraph station
lich, in the form of «
raph to Ottawa,
tist as above set forth
ived.
'ol u mbia as accoun tant.
operations of Mr. Geo,
vill use his own dis-
in British Columbia,
1 of their duties and
lUfoasibilily for „ lino „f,„il„„5.""''' '"■«''' °' """ M"lw"i <li»lri„l l„ doiormine
depth, the .pproacho. he v^r^frte wateS'.'r' ,"'° "'''1;'' ""!'" "'I toy, To
and such i„for„.lio„ a. 1» ...uan:, m 1^7. ° So*""'' "" ''°""' '"' "■" »»^'!
Ch>e';rIlLTrrp:r,r,,';fi^at^^^^ T,„, K„,„.or.„.
andwithiuleilraoKliuary expen»o "" ™J<"n« 'hat it mmt ho ..hlnlticd rapidly
. the progro. „,■ th, ^^zit^!::'::^ :!-2:^^!^^ V:s:'s:^^-
;iof this route, not to be sot aside. '' ^''''''™' ^'"'^ '".superablu, unci form a part
:^^4^^S^!:^^;^^^ .-i.t,u.co Of Mr.
parallel, and oast of the mUntair Tthe iSth m^^^^^^ "*'^''" '»'^y-«i^th
the practicability of a railway by the slZt../ i;^. ; ''"T'"« '*f'"'^'»' '•<'K'"d to
Eiver or Pine River Passes ; iud Z from the oca I^^^^ ^'' ''' "'^^ ^' ^''" ^ "'^^e
Southesk across north-west;,rly to Pine R?ver Pasf ''''^''* i'J'l'OOnton. say at
IJ^ncei^'diSC.t^'^.t'^Sr^;;; ET?^ ^yi-ir ^' '^-'-nton.
.I^thabasca to Dun vegan. U may be ffi r ed '^^^!^^^^ '^"'
p upper at Dunvegan, or between iuuvegan"^ 5t £r aS:;;/'" '"""^ ^^
S. P\
12th May, 1879.
icLeod,
anada, and will act ir
)etwoen Fort Simpson
; its anchorage; and
going vessels, with a
isthmus at the head
llceena to the centre
to the Peace River
acting with him, oI>
th the country until
|:?ambie may'lu:^o^;.o;;*^rof X: I'Z'^T "^"^ *'"^"'^'"'^ «'^^'> '■«P'"'t'* ««
istobeseut'asa tefeg/ar M ;te wfc^^ fh''^'"/ ^"^^«3'nop.i. of h in report
^'^^k train and will forward t^ t 1' '« Vom'"th ''''"'"''"'^ '•/ tl.« .'oturning
•robably Edmonton. "^ '°i''^'*' ^^''"^ the nearest tologmpli station
d
•logmpli station
light and left to ascertain how far good and extends -in . T'"^'^"' """'"'''y *« ^^o
lake eveiy means in nis power of«5ining as (S^e?;tt^ 7^ ''*'^"''" »'« will
J)hv8ical character n*" *hr ^-- i ^^ ^ t> "« complete a knowlodirn ii« ,w)-slk!„ c ,i
|..ah^a^„a,.ayt;3ir^^;s::4^rS:;tr;i:^^lS
J
34
^'«|'
Sl^ta^^'i,"' ''•°'"'° '""'' "" "'« '■"''-"" of ">o oo.„try „hl„h ho may po,,„n ,,v.l .
lOHond
S. P. ^j. as i
LaTouciie Topper, Esq. ^"^ ^^^^' ^^^S.
Dear Sir,— Mr. Flomin^r i„i8 directed n.o to seri you to moot mo from the «««* ■
Bomewhore ,n tho neighborhood of Fort Dur.vegan, Peace liivT ''' ^^
lou will, thoretorc, be good enough to proceed as quicklv as nossihlo to Winn;
Dirt Lake on th^^n I"'?''',"' '^""'' ^" ^^ ^''° ^*^«^ •■«"^« ^o Edmonton, thenco c
m. -tl, aS' I . I^obstick Ifver, and tlionco on a courno as nearly as practicab
willS'f '''"'^""^ ns near the above general course as the nature of the countrv
grounrforCur ran''f ff: ''"''""'' of Mr. Brown, endeavor to find the besi
projerclh^ctlon ' ^^''"^•'^fe' ^r^^'^^g^ >° the woods where they maintain the
Mark your trail R-d^ in the woods with blazes, and in the open bv poles set m
a intervals, wnting fre<iuently your name and the date on whicl you pa s the partic
si way. Sl^°"l'iy«'^^'-«««'^»y«f'"y train you will find the^m L.ked Ttt
You will estimate tho distances you travel as nearly as iiossihin oi=, *• i .
ot valleys, hoightsof hills and size oA-ivers and ^trcl'^ "0^ L Vc^ a iSro?
each day's work. Jsole also the character of the soil, timber and country . onSlv
und the extent, as far as practicable, on each side ol tho trail ""''""" ^ ^cneialh.
I
>try generally,
Jveop a good look-out lor signs of Mr. Dawson's or inv i-..!..*,, ,„i
tiie neigl' bofhood of Peace Eivtr, and signal" preseS ^^£1^^ "Ts' f^Vv-
making smoke, when opportunity oifeis. ^ "'i"o oU"« 01 by
Take with you, in!uct, Irom Winnipeg to the neio-hborlmn,! r.e p-„.. r>
supplies for 15 men for one month, amoulithig to abo'u^S t 1^ •!.„ J tOO "bf S
best bacon, with a projier proportion of beans, dried apples te-i suZr .t a
leave at Edmonton a like quantity of each article, to be?i d'on 'the ?' urn Nm!
of tho above supplies are to be use.l till you meet mo or Mr. Dawson f^-om tho we t
You should take with you for your use on tho journey, about five morh ' suS
for, say, 5 men, amounting to 1,500 lbs. of flour and 1,20(» lbs. of boT bacoS wit
other necessaries m proportion. And take a sufficient number ot hoi-ses and cT,
Fognlmt?'' '"'■' " ""'■ ^"""^ '""^^^^'^'^ "^^'^^-^•>'' to cany'uTtro'ar:
Should Mr. Brown judge that the country over which von will ,v.>.>. f-.fi • .1
west of Dirt Lake be too rough to carry tho month's suppiLwiTlvmvm, w 117'^''
them at Lake St. Anne's, and when you find that the S Ts ituS.rtoT V^^
counby about Peace Kiver, you will send back and get them brotj't o,^ '" '^''"
lou will endeavor to push forward as quickly as possible Irivin.. ,1".,,. .. 1,
tho animals, and keep yourself fully engaged in eLmirig the'«.| °
I am, yours truly,
(Signed) HENEY A. E. MacLeod.
Addenda by the Engineer-in-Chief.
12th May, 1879.
*• -^iV'" i^Pr'*''!]^ ^"^ ■ * ^'■' ^^PP^'* "^^'^'^ ''^^'^^ Dunvegan, on Peace Eivor bv tho
time Mr. MacLeod arrives at that point from the Pacific Coast. Mr. Cpe. wiM
accordingly push forward with ail speed, it is equally important tliat lie Bhould
1. I
will inst
tho isthi
Oommen
Qiatoi'ial
^ 2. 1
wo Skec
Ibrmed f
3. a
Jilotted ii
r. Keel
l^orks lb
aucceedii
Cbtimatir
4 T
but Mr. J
examinal
ahoal tha
. 5. I
■tidof fh(
I 6. M
<fetermin(
7. M
Other clin
* 8. In
report to
Warding j:
he may gi
Vark Ink
I The ii
Ibd lest th
#)ject of tl
J It is
son of cerl
|rmed res
35
y which ho may person
it to tho duties expectet
S. F.
May 10th, 1879.
moot mo from tho east
TiiV.
Y as possible to Winni
ny you on tho journey
I l']cImonton, thence 1(
nearly as practicable
1 of tho compass bein^-
nature of the country
eavor to tiud tho best
ere they maintain thi
open by poles, set up
ich you pass the partic
them marked in tlu
tj-avol as nearly as practicable in a direct course fromSouthosk Hlirt T,.,^«^ f^ n
Jan. but as tho route is ut.travolled, ho should -o l^t from Fdmon,^^^^^^ to Dunve-
Iro leave the main part of the supp los, ..ay, a ?Jmo on Mr Ma, i ?n . \ 'T.'
^sond despatches t!, mo from Dunvogan ; he vv TcSnlinHv fJn?) h.l' '"'"'"'^"'^
fer as Edmonton to return with tho supplies feu 111.^^'°°'^ ^"""^ ^''"^^ ^
S. F.
>s8ible, also tho depths
lin^ a regular diary ol
ind country generally,
)arty, ^vhen you got to
)y tiring guns or by
od of Fort Dunvegan.
. flour and 700 lbs. ol
tea, sugar, etc. And
n the return. None
Lwson from the west,
t live months' supplies
of best bacon, with
r ot horses and carts,
carry out the above
will pass totiio north-
:th you, you will leave
racticablo to tho open
ought on.
having due regard to
jountry.
L F. MacLeod.
12th May, 1879.
Peace Eivor, by tho
;. Mr, Tupper will
«.nt that he should
12th May, 1879.
Memorandum of Supplementary Instructions for Mr. H. J. Camhie.
1. Bofore leaving the coast in tho neighborhood of Port Simnson Mr PamhiA
Will instruct Mr. Geo. Keofer to make a survey from the head oT^^ark In L a^o s
the isthmus of some six miles to tho River Skeona. IIo will select a no"nr'for tho
jornmencemont of thmnurvey that could best bo reached b^ ea-goin" Es so that
Oiatei'ials for construe , on coul.l bo transferred direct from vosHolfto^he ailwav
^ 2_ Tho survey w. 1 extend from the isthmus by the best gnmnd up the v^ll^v of
Jccecding ton miles will be simi. a^.l^^re ;orfe?"nd"Mr:'K Z^ t^'^^t
other clima'^c?I"u".s. ''° '"""^ '"^^"^'^ ^"^'^ ''''^'''' '^ ''^'> ''^' ™-. «now^nd
ripoS£\KdSS^:Xa-'V-'j:s;S''nJ°;]^^ r? ^"°n*«
lirding phu., p,.o«.L and puanlitios Jf U.Klt JlS ^ Uo^lJ^lSnlJ^tSn
I aSnlt ^'Vl"^ "''""""' ^' ""'''y ^*"'"^ '■^^P'^cting Port Simpson as a harbor and
f aik Inlet as a temporary point of connection with a line of railway. '
I S. F.
13th May, 1879.
Memorandum of Supplementary Instructions for Mr. H. F. MacLeod.
Ll ,^;'°i"«^'"»f *«'?'' ^vhich were sent to you yesterday, were hurriedly nroDared
L if -rtll!;" rfCrtlTatlr" inf ',''" «°™™"">"'«l'»"W bo placed i„ p»„s.
m
von rnnuT^''!!"* ^■"'' '''*'■' ''''''''' ^""^ogan boforo Mr. DawHon roaches tho noint A
iv».f hlllf^T''^ ^•^ ^-^^ H'"" '•"" ^'•"'^ ^o'-t St- J'^rne^ to Fort McLod you will I
Fort Geo™ ^,j,„„,,,„^l„;^^^^^^^^
to report
PflsH hr>urT( ^;\\ 7 ' "•" """ "" '""s'L"o oy way or Mraonton and Pme Rivei'
S Fn,7ri ^^T '" "'"''"''* ^« *i'«t^"^" ^'th the lino via Yellow Head S
Y n ^f' ^"'^ T^"^ '°^'^ of country it will pa8« through. "^^
of B vm, w 1 "If fS' ti'' '". \7 T'«]hing about the rod line Irom A to B, but eant
of B, you will, at the date of Mr. Gordon's leaving you, have no information
S V
tion.*„7tSKV„dordTote"'''' "''''■ ''■"'"''■ *• f»PP» fo- >"« -f"™"
6th June, 1819.
Memorandum of Instructions for Captain J. 0. Brundige.
neces^t^'o^f 3Sf,' addS'Tf"' '',^ '^''^'''' ''■ ^^^^^^^ ^^^ Canals the .
8T
= .|F
portant olemont in tho
oursolt'to furnish with-
nation which ffooa to
orgo to tho point A, on
ve to oHtablish whothor
LoHsoi- Slavo Lake, or
avornhio gradionts.
atoil lino in the neigh-
is, I'or some roasons, is
on or near this lino,
iOSHor Slave Lake, may
les, and tho undersign-
ndeavor to get some
>n roaches the point A,
irn at A and proceed
1 meet him. In tho
ainination between A
ning at one end, your-
on tho blue line and
reached.
11 i red bo obtained an
the rod line, there
be could then, assum-
through Pine River
I oflico, HO that when
^nton, to tho blue or
II bo understood,
McLeod, j'ou will, I
you may be able to
r route between tho
How Head Pass and
tions will enable you
ton and Pine River
id Yellow Head Pass
3m A to B, but east
information.
S. P.
oer for his informa-
[ have furnished you with copies of my Paoitio Railway reports, embracin;,' tho
lostimony of ditl'orent naval authorities. On porusing them you will find that our
tnowlodge of tho northern portions of the coast of British Columbia is dolicient. It
Is important that wo should, as far as practi(^nl)lo and as soon as possible, make good
tho (loricioncy. You will, accordingly, lose no time in proceeding to British (Columbia
find find your way north, to where tho einiuiry is to bo made. In conversations
'^•hich you have had with tin Minister and myself, you liavo boon made aware of tho
Jiiitiire of the information which wo re<iuire, and you will make every effort to
jjjrocuro it. When you roacih the River Skeena, you will find that surveying
md exploring parties, under the general charge of Mr. U. J. Canibie, have entered
iJthe interior in that latitude.
I Some time will elapse before Mr. Cambio's return to the coast, but you will probably
find one party on the River Hkoona, in charge of Mr. Geo. Koofor. Should you be in
need of assistance, you can apply to that gentleman; but as his duties are quite dia-
tlnct from yours, you need not go out of your way to moot him, unless you find it
necessary to do so.
While you will gather information from every source, you will take special oaro
to form your own opinions from your own observations, free from all preconceived
,|ideas, and you will, once a fortnight, or as frequently as you have an opportunity after
vfleaving Victoria, cor voy to me an account of your^jrogross and the impressions you
may form botl. with respect to the harbors, tho approaches from sea, and the climate.
At Motlahkatlali,an(l wherever you cum gain reliable information, you will mako
^particular enquiries respecting the winters, tlioir length, severity, the prevalence of
winds, fogs, snow, ice., etc., and how tho climate may compare with Nova Scotia,
the west coast of Scotland, Denmark, or that of other well-known parts of the world
in corresponding latitudes.
(Signed) SANDFORD FLEMING,
Engineer-in-Chief,
6th June, 1879.
dige.
ays aiiJ Canals the
e coast of British
le for a terminus for
to British Columbi.i
88
APPENDIX No. 2.
i '^l
REPORT ON AN EXPLOHATtON from PORT SIMPSnv vr.
BABINEANI. STKWAUTANOTl./lFTrElvn ;17 ™" "'^^"^ "'^^'J^^A, LAKES
New Westminster,
t, __, BaiTisH Columbia, Jan. 20, 1880
5|und by Peace Biro, and S rii^o/lii.^^^'^orT.ir 'f '\r!''''^"-': '"'^"^^ ^o"^' be
'^""P^"" ""Ibe count of BntiHh Columbia ' ^ "^ ^^"'" ^'-'butaries, to Port
road^^V^tori^S Ott^va on May 12th and
cal Siu-vey, and Mr. Ilo.-otzky, hav nir i. ined . s at ^.'^ p ' ^''''""'' "^ ^''° G«ologi.
Wo Hpont ten days in Victoria mn^rm, "" i-nincisco on tlio 19th. ^
™ ..,0. p,„«, . „ir..,.z,°^r i^7;^tfor„rcVi^;,r„ t/r°c
^.isSrft.i,trs,rci;s^^^^^^^^^^ "^«-« - '.«■> *. o^vico .„,
Thi
•otoctt
00|)H, (
It lar^
•0 not
naptod
I Th(
■Dow sol
, Wo
Qiiooii C
itid p'>ir]
Ifuy Huit
In t
who con(
855, wh
hftrbor n
On]
Qontion^
"';itudo (
low tha
Wo 1
hiding abc
Wnd, and
METLAHKATLAH.
POET SIMPSON.
the eastward of the shoal known as HaSor'Cft a?« S'fnpson by the channel to
about wo hours and, the tide being ci^ ha I an onnolni'r^f'"t^ '" -'^^ ^""'^^^ f«'-
the dotted circle marked on tho charts a?oun ulln, i^ fobse'-ving that, within
shown as being largely coranosod of -oin T. .' ^''^^''' '^"'i which is there
By inspecting the cfearlit ^wKien thiuvm.^''?i;e°3[' ^'^ ^''' ''^^ '' '«^ ^''on
tected by this reef from the ocoanswell thm^lo "''°';" l''^'"*"^ ^bo harbor, pro-
In the northern part there is rwen!sie,te,ed^
quarters of a mile square. These 'Ttrthe laL In ^^^\'■"'° ^''""^' '-^bout three
Island, afford about five miles of water f,w«l! ^u^"^ ^""^ •'^^^ "f Finlayson's
extent on the surrounding SaS. ^ °" *^^ mainland, besides a lai-gc
A na
npnder I
•Cliarts, bi
:: Point
Sbo only
ort of ei
Mttromity
Qovommc
IJfark Ink
Wark
U 1,500
bftt soon
h«ad.
There
entrance ;
quarter eb
_ ' We ti
ineido tho (
a mile of tl
that point
: Thosh
t#«o miles c
bpttdin woi
ia^vcry limi
10 on 13- rt
Skoena,
If it Hh(
Skeena
poraiy t
▼<|y much
89
RIVEB SKEKfIA, LAKES
ASSKS TO r.OWEB SF.AVE
iiA, Jan. 20, 1880.
thoHurvoy and oxplor
tliorn route could bo
I' tributariea, to Port
ra on May 12th and
ivvHon, <.f tho Goolo.ri-
coon (ho 19th. "
1 on June 3rd sailed
ouino."
5th and tho steamer
ipson and the Wark
> had the advice and
i" engaging Indians
for tho night.
ow and tortuous, and
of accommodation.
lectod with a number
bed without facing
wps, such us those which now traclo a In fT • . ? ' '" ^'"^ '"^'" "^ "'"""
ft iurgo vessels may be c s I f, „V/i S>e nTlm '?"" '"">" '"?") ''"■"=«'
Japfodfo. utLtteof acu7"'' '"'" "'" "^ """ ''" "^'^^"^^ "'^"^ ""^ '^''^ ^^«"
»(l points nearer the harbor, it el i it 1^^^^^^^^^ ^'"" "'^ ?',' ,"'''?'" ''^^''^
way sni^d for the terminus of t^.".u.yrKJ;;i,f^^^^^^ """'' '^' '" "^^'•>'
whoio,t:3^s.^^^'■,;;;^i;;;•:;^X'^^o?^"^''''r^''^'"^
»5, whore, in reply to q, el ' .nW LJ-. 'l"\^'i;^ '"^P"^''^ '^^ ^^^7, page
l»rbor north of Bo.rvirIIa.^.ri;Wnt';ve.'rsSnd"^^^ '^"■' ""P^°" "'^ ^"^^ " ""°«^
•on^;;Xt-"{it?L^:'^'3S,e :'^'::^|;; sjLi'^h'^r"^" f'^'f^'^' ^''^'"--
S;itudo CPort Simnson^ nnH n V, " , '" '^® temperature of tho sea at that
teingabout^^ui^rr;"^^^^^ '«" magni.icent entrance,
!
WARK INIiET.
f ven/nLt t Iho'unUeTsL^r '''".h''^ " '^'"'""' '^ ^""^"^ P'^^^ theJe 'by the
f ark inlet. ^'' ''^"^'^ P™^^"* ^«««°'« entering or leaving
i* JolVIm ISet'Vr ■T'mlle'lHluf^ 'T^ '' ^''^ -om ;, he entrance
ui^^ « -i"vw luoL wiuc , 11 mile farther in, it narrows to nbnnt i nni» p,^^^
Wtjoon opens out again, and then averages one nnle in iidlh all th^w-ay' V'?^^
passing northwards
n by the channel to
1 in tho harbor for
serving that, within
nd which is there
t bare at low water,
of tho harbor, pro-
le half mile by two.
sland, about throe
ast of Finlayson's
id, besides a lai-g.-i
S/„\°Zrf™ „'°''l r.h''-"' '""","'« °^ "'"'"'"• »"" "°"?J afford »bout
" I.JMi l i i ttM il
40
four milen noarly ....l.o.it /ft.o Q,Soon ,? '^ '"/""^ "'•°'"^'" t'>''eo,except for abouXSoJ
one much curvat^n.o'L::;t"u,,^^^^^^ ^^vo'.a«e porhltps one i.^^^'^t^
Inlot, ,0 that,, li ,,,''" I ,™ ,1 IT™ ." n"'"f";T """"■""« ""■»»» '» W,,,.!'*""^
ilicreasin
SKEENA RIVER. f '' "^^^^
On +K tftere is s
pa.t:^w^^o';^:l:'::^..i!;iZ.;it-;-<,^;;f'7M-«. A^ Keefe, who. with hi^:';:^
Mr. Horetzky remai.u.l iXnT al Pn^^vZ, ! "' /^' '°"'r ^°"'^^ P*^'"'"'' ^ Sou 1
canoes, man,^rbyivo™nH;^^^^^^^ ^ b tar tod up the Skeona Bivor ii twJS,.C
on the head wate.^ of the W „ wh^rT om-^'n? P^'^^'^lo speed to reach Fort McLeodlPfc
Our progress wuss ow f f'l,„ more important work was to commenct" Jti, k m
.•each the^" iz Skt^:^-' tiifrhii^jr^ " ^ ''^"^ ^^"^° °^ «-'^' -d - dii"„:|^\^t
have^,;;r;:;^SJl- j;;;^;- i;^ -y^ ^^ the Skeena Yalloy, as , J .^S'
memorandum dated April 23 riSTS^ndBuLh^H^^^^ ''' ^ "^'^^"''^^ '-""te' in atiofoV
page 38. My opinioni are bo Vno ou? hJ fh« n ^.""Z '^P'^'"* ^°'- t'^'^* yea-ffie?
which the plans,profileHandrtLaLfn,. ./''"• *^ °^ *^.''- ^««^'«^'« «"rvey, oiT'^"
submitted to you.' In tfm moS^ndn^ T ^ ^ ."^''"'l '"^^'^ ^'' ''"P^^'t. ^re no. <
residents at tho'^Porks we ^lh oS oisl, tl^';" ^T",'*^ '" ^^^ that some of tl. :
small herd of cattle. Thoy Im^ sinco ,il / i /'"* ^^'j ^"'^ ^''^ J"«t obtained t . A daj
thatcattlocan bo kept wTth profit ^"^'^^^^ed two good crops of oats, and fou.v I*cla Lak
to ec^Z^^r;^'!^;;!^- «;;rr ^'ffi.\j^Cr^' ^^T ^^ ^^« p.acticab,|iie?ofi
sonquah and Nochacoh ({iverw ami so to nnnll/n % *^'^«'-g<?. by way of the WaMe, and t
been already located from that nt t. Uw « f ^he Skeena with the line which ha, tothe heac
the object of thisoxanm, ti rbeirto?/!^4n %T,'' ^^ ^^^ ^"^'<^^ ^^^'^ ^^««- B.etetward t
the Skeena to the IV.cce icr vio^onL^S rnn '''' 7^' ^P™««cablo route frcr^^ute praci
equipage and supplies, and ? n.voHeK^tta -d r /l' ''^^^^'^'T 'S ^'^'^'^ ""'' «^'"1'S"' '^''''^
brought us to E<j!iuo Lake, cCo to LS^ ^^ the Susquah Hiver trail, whirl fl|t)st^Klowi
lilies abov(
TBAIL FROM SKEENA TO BABINE. Ittrth-easte
or m ..et . U,. .„„, „,. :Crp^;a„Xn"'n7i,et;ZiV„fiLS^^^^^^
BABINE LAKE.
oo«™.t .„ „<«,, „,■ t„.'irr:s rt.?s„rs"i Sir^ir""' " ""-^ :
, Prom t
iyCompa
me elovat
em is abo
If
I
41
i<c,-ea,mg from 500 At at 1, n=i,-Z ■'o d'to S'o„o fcot"h,°l; -'u •"''■" ^'''""t. ■■'«•>
ac- west »ido there is n hisi, r.inire of mnVmf L'.' i , t . ?'" """'' ""' '»'■'• 0"
a his report, are now <
you that some of th. '^*'^*^^ '^° ™^ eastward.
^ith the line which hact^the head of the bay on wS stands the ?orf 7T" '." :V«^th-easteily direction
ellow Head Pass. Bu:«*tward to the head of thT Nation or anv n^t-u ""/'"^p'u '*^"'*" '^^ continued
practicable route froEj^rte practicable for a railway I am not 17a nJf .'?""'; 5/^' ^'^'" ^''"''' ^y '^
lans to pack our can.,, f ", though several routes we're dTscrfbed ^oZZ ^f ^' ^^ "^ P"''^""^* •'^■^'^'•^■'»-
|le^^t^^:;S^ ^'fejtS '^^'^'''If -«tw^-i from Tacla Lake about si.
Ida. tniough it in 1871 to facilitate travel to the Ominoca gold
lah iiiver trail, whici:'
ises is about 3,'700 fee:
TOuld entail gradientj
works of conKtructioc
gently up from thf^
this respect a marke: i
umbia.
PORTAGE TO STSWART's LAKE.
|y &S^^^^^^^^ 0- .» B.«W. La.e. by the Eudsoa
c ario'oret:'" °^°™ ''» "•• -^ "■» i'4t4o.ut-i" t^iittC;
42
rii
Stewart's lake.
Jamf^Z'SS 'wlLfwo"mfft,r'°\T^*'^* •'••^; ••^•-- ""^ reached Fort «•
of the Pcco nFv^-lonZy '' ^''' ^''''^ ^'"'""^ ^^'^"^ '^^ °"tfit for the explorutio;
back for soverai ^.lle.s, coveTeS with' pip^f^I^a '1^ "" ""'"''^^'"^ ''^"^' ^^^^"^'""^
dow.S K.^ J'^^::^^J;J:;;^'5 ,;^ --{"^'ow^ durin, part of our tri,
bo wiHhod. connequontly did not soo the adjacent country as well as coul'
PREPARATIONS FOR JOURNEY.
point he rnight?o,uiroX,md!f;h"Th?irer''" '"^^^'"^ ^'^ '"^^^ '^'^ "^ ""J
in boating/cutting traietT'bein^^Jor''"-*'''^^ ""^^ ^^'^'•« ^ assi.,
seventy.tSopack^n.';£:l?i,^'rnVS^^^^ °^^ ^^^ ^--^^^ "'
"^^£Siii-^^^ '^^^^^^" ^^-"'-
east with ti,; mule tranK^Pin;'KivorpTs.w?i """■ P?"^^' ^^'- ^'^^^'^''" ««!"'-'
rostof thepartytodosccryPcTco Riio?i^^ arrangementn for tho
Hudson Bay Company ° '" "" ^"''^ ^''"^^^ ^^^s obtained from the
fljrtain
Watshed
Ifeing ( 1
^evatioi
mpurs or
■| On
flls rue
000 fe(
Ojiposite
4)uutry
?ttonw(
. On 1
2r luncl
lies, t
particuls
< The
istances
le river
I Aboi
•Qirough i
! could ]
fficulty
ick fror
l^dUt fiv(
llide will
I mi,.
PACK RIVER.
men,^LXltrfhe''fat°^^^^^ R-^^Jor and fo„.
junction with the Pmnnip neS dly ' '^ ^^'^' '""'^ ^^^^^^^ "■
hour!it\'ar!;f.rni;;±i'u12b:i"£;^^^ ?^^-t« ^^-'^ ^n- p.
miles below Fort McLood! ^° "^'^'^""^ ^'^^^^^^^^ '"^^ ^°y Point for fiv.
consiTis :jZura"ndroXfwith:!if '"""",""* ^T^ "«^^ *h° f-t- The fores:
on the hill sider Thistel^s to he ?l!r" h'^' '^ •'■'"^'■' '^"'^ '"^ ^«^ ^«»g''^« A'-
experience is concerned. ^ ^ " "'"^^"'■" '"^^* «^ '^^^^ tree, so far as our
PARSNIP RIVER.
The
)out fori
fut rockj
luch to t
feuco Ki\
■ The 1
rich, hut 1
The c
poplar, wi
owi
ingtotoHwiftJJrronfas'Sf Z' ZZtV't .^''"'^^■' ^'"^ --"^■•fficulty,
railesTwhore we ferried Mr Duvson . Z ^ ^''° Mi.sinchi.ica, about twelvo
animals and having npVolntedrme'et' ' im""i ^o s^ff '^T i^^ ^"' "^*^'", ^''^
Sept. Ist, returned the name ovonincr tn r^„ J .Possible, at J'ort Dunvogan, about
Ki'ver. This portion of tL pI ■ dp^RivoHs^ 5^ fLf^'' 'f *'"^, T*^"' "^ '^'' ^^'^
about one-half mile in width. ^''"""^ '^"'' '^-'^^ i» a valley
i The f
^d boluw
entoi'stlio
pfeinn; iron
hiilt u raiiu
^nd.s fron
m height t
Thoug
luthern o
princip;
null to ai
The 01
larters of
les at an
This vv
ther o!iHi
ich swec
4a
d at 10 tho name ovonin
Jiimos, which was mci.
)e8 to proceed.
I. and reached Fort S-
)utfit for the exploratior
Tom one to six miles ir
dulatingland, extending
uririif part of our trii
country as well as couji:
visions. A small pad
't under c'.argo of Alv
s to meet him at aiij
y, then consisted of six
IS, who were to a8si>!
3ur train consisted of
'■e proposed travelling
reached Port McLeod
Y, Mr. Dawson going
arrangements for the
as obtained from tlu
Ct. R. Major and fou;
16th and reached it-
At some ofthe bends it washes the base of clay and gravel b=mks which ^f
Cfrtam times when saturated with water anne-ir to ^\iu ir.tZl ^ ' which at
gashed away by the current. These blutS^v^^yVom 100 f-^r f"^ "f -^^
fcing<n the level of the adjacent country whfch ^ntinL J t? °^ '" ''"^'^*'
,>levation on the eastern side for about c gh't .Ses buci m i^ nltl K "'™". ^'°"'''"^'
l^urs or foothills of the Eocky Mountains ' '^'^ westernmost
J On the western side between the Parsnip and Vioh R;xr„,.>, fv,„,.„ •
Klls running nearly parallel to the forme AriaL of vSl u' '' T"-^ ^^
foOO feet in heightabove the river. m?n,.lVs^^^^ T"''* *]?* ""^'^^"^
|posite the mouth of the Misinchinca! byj^ d^our ,|ck tr I' h^ IZ ''"°^ "'^"^"'^
pi^ fo,.o,„i„, a..e..ipu„„ o'fisr™r,L/"t:,s^'^.;,^ir',ritff;-
ifficulty. In order to avoid land slides it miX fjy !"'" "^'^^^^ f^^'^ «®"°"«
.ck from the Parsnip, except aUhe cross n.^f!r which t'h "^ .^^^^i^'^^'^ble distance
;out five miles abovi its jun^ction with rhri^U^ntSe i Ts ' onlf rbrt'sof ^Je^i
ide with an exposure of rock on the left bank ^ "" ^®"^
poplar
PEACE RIVER PASS.
the fort. The forest
!vnd a few Douglas fii>
^at tree, so far as our
ivith much difficulty,
;hinca, about twelve
ross, and swam the
rt Dunvegan, about
e mouth of the Pack
id flows in a vallcv
d below that {.oiiit the united streii^^r no^n ^ ZS J^Jor - nd" "'"*^r?T'
|lors tho pass of that name. This pass is bounded iofhnnU i^V'*' '.f i^' immediately
^ing fro,^ 4^000 to 5.000 ieet ubovJ'thrtl^'o *:^.:K ^'Ki"': 'l^r^'"''!
Jf a mile wide between thoii' bases thron.rl, ,„m,.i Vi • ' .,Un^ valley about
nds from side to side, hav , g Clies h^"t oiT n . 1 7'" ^''^f. '^ T ^^''^ ^^'^°)
height iVom 20 ,o 8o'anc^ sonieUmereve.f to I'Tfeet ' '''" "" '^'' ''^''' ^"'•>-'"^'
iut^;:t i:;i;^t,ni;^rts!s't. ;^: ;S:;;!r ^,cz ^^^^^f «- r.
principally in gravel and verv heavv owin, fr> Vi, v^' u ■ ' ^''"^ '^'^'"'^ ^^"'^
,n\h to'anoihei>where i^o;':^^^::];,:::!;-!^^^:!'^''''' '" ^""'"^' ^'^'^^ "'-
.rtl!;:r!ftrjt^^s::?^slrSeS^/st\^^^^^ ir-^ 'V'-^^-
les at an average slope of one in three ^ ' ^^'^ ^^'^ ^""^ ''«°^^y' ""^
^hoi'^r^'^il^it' u'r^l ~'nl rr*^ '^^'^^^^ 'r"^ excavation; and about h-: a mile
#1.: .wee-f^m\ieri;in^ -Si ^li T^ ^^ ^ ^J^ tS^
ii^Mmmk. «»
About five miles tast of Mour,; S I^ ' * "'°''^°'" ""^ ^'^^ Purvey.
tho south i and 12 mirfortheroasiailt^'l'. " ^ '""' ''u '"' ^'^ ''"°' ^'^^^ ^o'"^^ '•« f ror
water, about ]20 foot wide a so comoTn fmrtt^""' ^^T''^"'' ^i'^^' ^"^^ ^^^ d^^'
streams of importance to be bWdTd o," the 1. 1 '^'*'^^''""^^t'°."; Thoy are the onl
The low flats are timbereH wm, h ^^"" ""'^*''" consideration,
spruce, poplar and birch "^ ""'^^ Cottonwood, and the hillsides and benches w't
side.to ^^:!'t^T:i^:i:i:t:^!^:^ l^^)^ base of the mountamsat o.
four miles. From that point eastvJard to u e^c^^ nf?h«'R''T m '''* '"™'^>t^' V^'^^f
40 -niles, the character of tho couHry ch^n" cs t ho r ?il ^'^/ ^""ntain portage, abo.
between the bases, and about six o7seven^m ties bl w'^ '';?'"" ""' ^° "^out two mile
toins, which gradually decrease in heiittriboutToo^rl^rr^^ "J *J^*^ °^°"^
become loss steep and rugged. The benches nl , ^-^O*^ or 1,000 feet, and their slope.
feet above tho riVer, and at three poirroniv of T''"'''^ ^"7"'' ^'"'"^ f''"™ !« ^^
tho aggregate to about a mile and ah^fftL ^ °"*'' ""^"^ ''^ •^' "raounting ,
river is'wfde, and it wouW be I'sibt to ^100^1^'^ '' places where^t
edge: consequently the difficulties of rn; hi ^! " embankment along the wate
Five strums Lve to be crossed t r^^o' hf '"f T T""!^ ""^ ^' S^'^'-
and 50 feet in width. ^'"sseu, the wo largest of which are respectively 15
CWateriTvlrtbesIoleTSng'l^h:^ '^^^ -t-'d of th
clumps of spruce and pop ar coDlo^flnd .! .1 ^ """"^ ""^ ^^^ ^''^ ^'^''^ some sraa
grass and pea-vine. ^^ ^ ''' ^"'^ '' '^'Se proportion of prairie producing goo
interior of British Columbia cn.u acterista of the dry southern portion of th
ROCKS' MOUNTAf. CANON.
from the upper end ' "''''° ""^'^ ^''°™ ^^at end, while I did the sani
had ^:a:^^:^^A^r^SiX£:^ "^ '-'' ^^°^ ^- ^^-^ ^- -''-. a.
widewi?hltc;;3eH?iff^r^^^^^^^^^ ^ g-F about 400 to 600 fee
side.. The surrounding bilirX/Zm roojVT^O . I'l''^ ^•^'''^ ^'^'^^'
the river, and slope down to the precipice at the - ^* '" ^^'^ht abov=
they are also much broken by ra?3sothaa\ '>' '"? '" *^° ^'^ «"« i" Ave
due e^noi'uVwSrJroflsrmS^^Ti^ S ;t^"!>7;,%^T ^^^^' ^^^ «-"
sharply to tho north and leaves So' section of oin,^^ ^T^^ ^'.^'•■' ^'^^''^ '^ turn
"Hudson's Hope may bo sad to be on th«.n% '"'''?'''* J" ""'' c-^-'^rainatio..
Kocky Mountai„s.\heir L'th n eL< oudin " ^ \ TZff" l"^ ^""^ '"''''''^'' «^ '''
.--Luuii!^ m a pOuth-eaBturly direcliou past tht
I Tho
(ibout ni
«|e plate
liomSOO
I The
liequentl
<^i out a
pities to
•I We a
Mid Dunv
ti^iding ii
' Tho t
Ipse and
The t
id the pi
imilur i
h and v
ory sm
I Wert
I', lienne
|iis till A]
delay i
|[hl were
pcludo ll
throe d
^
60 foot wide comns in fiv„ ¥
the Survey,
60 foot wide comes in frot
•0 foot wide, and the Clea
3tion. They are the onl
^nsiderafion.
lillsidos and benches wit
30 of the mountains at or
1 their summits, porhiin
HUDSON'S HOPE TO PINE RIVEH.
Vil
.•ecent date, on
I much greater
L^^:^^^;^2S^f;^-;J---^^^ of alkali, and I
Jater, it dissolves and facilitates thnJ.!^ ^^ ^i'^*'"' ^^'i"» saturated with
he small variety of sag. fPl^on to rest on it *'*"""^^t«« '*'« movement of the mass of earth which may
'O the eastward of th
lie flats have some sraai
' prairie producing goo
southern portion of th 'I
>il to consist of u
poor .
PINE RIVER TO DUNVEOAN.
|e plateau, and from a quurterTa mi' e to tiomre^hy^^h'h'';^'^ '''' '^' '«^«' "^
f m 800 to 1 500 feet vy^e, and wL"'tmJde to'^fd" ''' ''"""' the river varies
aid of horses borro..$^^^na;:^ :} ^S:^'^2^^;^^^^^^^^ though not so
m out a valley for itself hundred^ of bet dee ^nd Tf 1 .^^1"? '""^ ^'^^ ^^^''^ ^^'^^
1 west, and was made fo #lt'e« to be overcome in the construction otl\\lt!.^^''^^^' ^ ^^^^ ^he diffi-
which the Peace Rive f We ascended to the level oSi^h^L^V^ t\J^ T k'*'"^'^ ^° over-estimated.
Bs in length. «fed Dunvegan. and each time found ft to K of th. ^''""*' ^''^^'"' ^^<i^on', Hope
• about four miles, arc !
3 about 400 to 600 fee
to 300 feet on eithc:
et in height abov
two to one in five
y would require mauv
' of construction wouL
ace River flows nearlt '
River, whuie it turn'i
d in our cxaminatioi
of the foothills of thi
ly direction past thf.
I>UNVEUAN TO SMOKY RIVER.
Ins till Mr, Dawson shoul.i arri^voiith ou? £1 le tTvi^Thn "'■''•' ^"'" ""'" ^^l^'^™"
[1 delay ,n rtnd.ng .he animals, so we dkf not 1 offfill ti " TT '""'" ditliculty
*ht M'ero available. Mr M-i<.| ,o,l .m,;i i ",*^'',>°'^ oti till the 5th, and then onlv
Jcludothopossibilitvof rl!lin!^^^ ""'"I^-- «« -nail as Ij
I- throe days, till we'reached gmoky Riverl'luf Styivo^mi^
M-H^ i
46
Itv
id thn
JHiting
tako I
Bepsor S
Tho balanro of the forty -five railos was thr, i.ifh |,nurie and mr.hr copse, with #ith'th!
fevv w.Hovv. .n ' >w places; tho proportions wo.- A:nM ,)no-C,a/co:.... fo two4hir *
prauMP, with g...ss twelve inches high, -rowing Haffioiontly closo to '<; rm a sod.
Iho trail t<.|lows the more open pa.ts of the i -untry, and it is probable that tl
proportion of wooded land -it Home distance to either side would bo greater
of vegeTabi^ did."'" ^^'^^P*^'"^' ^l^o^^ meationed, is a grey silt, with a few inch,
n bvnt!*rifVr^'T^' rniic« from liuavegan we came ajHrn Gho^^t O.o. k, twelve feet wid
a branch of ho Brulo Eiycr whic;: we : .ossed ;U about nineteen miles; the latter
fifty feet wide, and omp^es into tho Perce tiReen mile, to the eu^i of .Dunve-an
At, 1h.ahirt3--iunth mile wo crossca the }\aCL Heart iiivcr sixiv foot wide 'in
valley 250 foet deep, a quarter of a raibwic:o in the bottom, and nourly half a mi:
^A-.deattl.oevel of tho plateau. Fromnherr we c;v..ed, it flows in a north-ei
cour''- foj- about five miios, and empties into Smoky Eiver.
o... 'V'*'l"^V '"o" '^™'"" ^''T ^^^ ^°'"'" "f ^'"0 ^i^'«'' to Lesser Slave Lake woul
c oas ..he -Smoky ii.vor near this point, and wo selected it as the most advantageot
plM< .0 ()ndj.€ that river, on a lino of raihv .^ between these points, not only becaii-
of Its proxim.iy to the straight line, but becaase the valley of the Ead Heart affolv
an approach on the west side while immedia'u.ly opposite tho Smoky Eivor take*'
Sthor ddr'' °'^^^ ^ '"'*' ^''''"^" '"'' "PP«^-*""ity to approach it from t^
The works for about three miles on eacL side would be exceedingly heavv I
continuing to be of a formidable character for several miles further • ^
bmoky Elver is here about 1,100 feet abov, sea level, 750 feet wide at hi.-
water with a current of three miles per hour. Tc relievo the grades a bridtre shoi'^
be built about 100 feet in height; even then it is probable th^ c^u d no? be k ''
quite within a ma.xiraum of one per hundred. "o^ oo la,
Next (lay 1 parted company -viih Mr. MacLeod, he making a sweep round ■
the .outh-west on h.s way to Pine Eiver, while 1 ourposed travelling to Lesser Sim #d a hal
Lake in as direct a line as circumsfances would adJnit under the direction of an IndJ. ^ It d
guide, whom Mr. Kennedy had engaged for me at Dun vegan. Wparated
Ijesscr SI
Abou
SMOKY RIVER TO STUROEON LAKE. feet wide
We found a party of Crces and halt-breeds hunting on Smoky Eiver, who ferij. ^"'"sd'ir
US acToss in a canoe at a point about eight miles south of the Bad Heart. river not i
Ihe valley is there 450 feet deep and two miles wide at tho level of the plalo; Lake, ink
Ihe western bank has an irregular slope with many small hollows contaiuii ; The c
pools, caused by a series of land slides. imieh flo„,
My guide kept travelling south-east and insisted ho was taking the shortest ron "Oil are p.'
to Lesser Slave Lake, but after four days he brought us to Sturgeon Lake, five mi' ' For o
long by four broad, elevation above sea level about 1,900 feet; Where there is a sou b«slt of bla
montofCrees. in width-
I estimated that we had travelled during < ;o four days only about forty, the face of
miles. A very large proportion of the countr, 'iooded by beaver, and we spu vine and »
hours picking our way between ponds, wadinp , s swamps, and bridsrinir sni:. ^ These
streams -<- h muddy banks in order to g-t our
were crc . ■
The e numerous swamp raeadov. /■•■
timber is poplar, spruce, birch, willow lu..: !-if.ck pine (pinus contort aV iiW of sm
size, ma few cases nine to twelve inches, tu)t .vo small groves of spruce nine i
eighteen mehcs diameter were noticed.
We re
igust 19t
i Hudsoi
123-
Cont
four days only about forty-'
'tooded by beaver, and we b])L':
. s swamps, and bridging sm;.
• .CH over. No streams of imjiortan
. TV little if
any true prairie
t.
47
ro'-o through timber,' a;
A'/eifty-fic-.i to the Iwont
)0{)lar, eprace and willo
and poj.Lii' copso, with
■t'-ivii co.i:..' to two-thir
Close n- *; i m a sod.
nd it is probable that it
ould be greater,
cey silt, with a few incii
't Ct'e( k, twelve feet wid
icteoii miles ; the latter
be eut,i of Dunvegan.
;r sixiy foot wide, in
1, and no'irly half a mi;
it flows in a north-ea'
jesser Slave Lake woul i
the most advantageonj
3 points, not only becau- >
)f the Bad Heart afTorc
ho Smoky Eiver takes
to approach it from tfc
be exceedingly heavr
further.
750 feet wide at hii;
e grades a bridge shou!
they could not be ku;
little labour, the soil is whitrsit wUrfom (o k^v in 7^ '^''''"'^ ^'! l''''*''""^ «'»'> very
The boulders and sh ingle on tT,o beach ^iV Sh "'^'' f ^:^'««'"''l<-' """.M. ^
with them was a quantity oVw^le';;;uSsfs:f„.L ^'"'"' ^'-''•" "" '<'"''"^' ""''
I STL'ROKO.V LAKE 1 > MTTLE SMOKY ruVKIl,
{Hiting some of his Indian ?,• " ds ,,cvcrtl o lossT,,^;"' " 'h'^'''.' '"*"" '/"' T'l«"«<H-o of
take a diroctionatritrhtan Z toom fhl '1 ''"' V'" ^"''^' "'"' ^" had now
;H8or Slave Lake. '^'"''""'"'^ ^°°'" '"•'mer oneand travel north.«.i.tw«rd« tommls
|o r^otZofz ^ii^^JndTti.r^i^^^j^rt^' Jfrr T 'r'^s^'"^- "■ « ->«>'
itimaied elevation above sea level™ JoS' ,h L. t "' .''* V'". ''''''«""• Thi
lur miles per hour. ' "" **'''^' ^'^J'^'^ *«"J ""*^ " J<"l< <«ot, mrrent
|ajn Sjnoky. about.«fteen mU.:i^:l^lZ^ ^1;;^ rad'^SXc^tS
NnL^'rSor I'aJ^o^l^tstfrnX^^^^^^^ ^-'•^"- -" "Single of
eces of lignite, but no rock wL seen in bo,)'. ?nHTK water won, ; aim, numerous
Ig from what distance they l3 drifted ' ''^ """'" '"" "**"*'"• *''' ""^ertain-
le «!- o;^ fi^ wi^s;tAri:^'^^[rt;r;^^^^^ 'f- «r - « ^«-« "^-"^
I examine it, not having h "en'oVe'of any kliyV:" lys^b^^^^^^^^ '"''' ^""''^ '^^^^^'
MTl'LE SMOKY UIVER
iking a sweep roujid ■
avelling to Lesser Slar
Lhc direction of an Indii
TO LESSER SLAVE LAKE:
noky Eiver, who ferrit
Bad Heart,
.he level of the plate;
null hollows contuiuii
aking the shortest rou
irgoon Lake, five miL
where there is a settl
i only about fbrty-orl
y beaver, and we spei'
ps, and bridging smi
o streams of imjiortani '
any true prai'-io ; tt.
! contort (I) all of sma
^es of spruce nine
]»..»r Slato take. '^ •'"°"'°' '"'"■ "' '''° •••>">» "«">«, "■IikIi »m|,iiM into
■ About Kf>unnf/ir>r^ »«:i„ . /• .. -, . .
f«ie
; -About seventeen miles (Vnin thn T ;f(i„ c< i
Set wide, shahow. anTw t la U e.a o ,wo"?^i^^^ ^' 'T'^ •'^""''' "<^"'-tiJiver, GO
garter of a mile wide and GO feel dcen •^'"" ^''"'■' ''"""'"'^ '" " ^""^T »
9 Sliil continuin<r fhn l:o..,„ .i. __" , .
mil(>H, with the
J of iyOMsor Slave
. and GO feet deer).
erncl fan;"o".;."%vt weTe.;r;'"^|'-T^ ^"^-^ ^-^ ^^^out eleven
ke, into which it diSaJg^H ' "^' '^"°"'*' '''^' '^' -^^^ern on __^ ^
ifloSb^^&^lll/Ke^f- ''^'"ll!^ Heart River is not HO Hwnrnpy or so
lil are precise^, similar """ ^"'"''^ ^^'^'^'' '^"^ ^hat lake, but the uEr „nS
lit ^iS^^e:'cl;?^r':^£rLrS«,^'^'^ ^^-^ «iver. we pa... through u
width ; but from tlmt poi Jto t e head olM ''"«," ^^T'l''^^ "^^'''"f »'«"' » ""ile
face of a gentle slope faiin.' tie south out^^^^^^^ ^lave Lake, our p.lth lay along
.e^and some small sa^^.e, wi.lTpS^ira tf w 'l orcSe" '""'" '' «""' «''"'"' P''^
The sod ,s grey «„t, with sevJral inches of bLTv^getable mould.
LESSER SLAVE LAKE.
4S
50 foot wide, coming in from tho tlnrth-^vo^*t, wiiieli is imrdered for a miK, on oai
t^ido hy rich mai'Hli meadovv.s. They arc .Mii)jecL to Dverflow in sprin^r and durinir thf
ourly )>ait of Mimmor, but at tiio time of our visit tiioy wore nearly dry, and on
many jai-fH a mowing maciiino migiit liavo been used to advantage.
Tlie grass is eoarso in quality, but is said to be very nutritious, and a lar^c
quantity ot lia}' per aero might bo saved.
The wosiorn extremity of Lesser Slave Lake is a circular pond, about four mikN
in diameter, which is connected by a net work of channels about a milo in length
with anolber pond of nearly the same size, which in its turn is connected with tho main
lake by a channel about tlneo miles in lorglh. Tlieso pondsaro quifo shallow, seldom
oxcccditig four feet in depth, and between them as well as to tho soutii of them
marshes similar in every respect to that next Salt Creek stretch away for miles.
Tho fort stands Just at tho outlet of tho first i)ond ; tho upland is there light and
bandy, with a small growth of poplar, spruce, alder and willow.
A lino of railway crossing the Smoky Kiver at tho mouth of tho Bad Heart, a.
before described, should rise to tho level of tho plateau as rapidly as possible and
then, continuing eastward for some miles, descend gradually into the valloy of Littio
Smoky Eivor, cross it, and pass by way of Iroquois lakes to Lesser Slave Lake
following its southern shore to the east.
From tho route which I had travelled, no hills wore seen in the direction of Little
Smoky River, and it is not likely that any serious difRcully would be mot with oi
the lino described.
The I
staiit fii
laving an
fe-(il"ih 1
of vak
i Of th
^(•h grass
■^e depth
'j Hctwi
(pnning st
IJiside two
% half a I
. The i
^ocialiy s
igg south i
^e i'eaco
In the
lies, solic
rs wore :
rich, and
LESSER 8L.4.VB LAKE TO I'EACB RIVER.
At Lesser Slave Lako wo wore presented with a supply of white fish, woighin -
from three to four pounds each, similar in every respect to those found in the irrea't
>iorth American lakes. °
Wo left there August 21st, on our homeward journey, following the Hudson
H:iy Company s cart trail in a north-westerly direction towards Peace Ri\or
About eleven miles from tho lake wo crossed tho South Heart River, which wa>
there 40 feet wide, coming from the north-east, and followed up some of its smaller
tributaries to tho twentieth milo.
Three miles farther wo crossed a creek about 8 feot wide which flows into the
Noi-th Heart River and followed tho general direction of that stream to its confluonco
with tho Peace, three miles below the mouth of Sfiioky River, and fifty-fivo'from tlu'
western end of Lesser Slave Lake. j . .
Jn tho (irst five miles from tho lake the trail ascends 400 feot and then descend^
gradually with many unimportant undulations towards Peace River which is thoiv
about 'MO feet above sea level, 1,300 feet wide, its immediate valley being 700 feot deep
We crossed a muskeg ono milo wide, and travellol along tho margin of anothor
tor half a mile, beside many small swamps which could bo drained without difiicuk\
jiassuig through ono strip of prairie ten miles in length with rich soil and luxiir
ant grass and poavine, also some smaller praiiios on slopes facing the south Tli
oiherportionsof the road lay through groves of poplar and spruce, generally ,
small size .i to 12 inches in diameter, on soil of grey silt with 2 to 4 inches of ve-'
table mould. ■'^
CROSSING OF PEACE RIVER TO DUNVEOAV.
At the mouth of tho North Heart River tho Hudson Bay Comimnv have a
<3Xtensive storehouse, from which are distributed the supplies, &c., destined lor'tho
Jjower Peace River, and the posts far north on tho Mackenzie.
Hero wo crossed tho Peace, and continued our journey up its left bank on an open
bench with poor gravelly soil to tho old trading post opposite Smoky River, ostab
lished in 1792 by Sir Alexander Mackenzie, which has now been abandonod ; and
then ascending to the plateau by the cart trail, followed it to Dunvegan, nearly fifty
mifes m all. '' •
On mj
IWck a few
Ufo mule ti
a small par
the moinboj
M By nox
*|legraph, i
l^arcst tele
3 Messrs.
Fjeace from
fifioiild trav(
opportunity
unexplored.
1, thorc
bf the direc
tie main foi
River to Hu
my way as I
At Less
had not left
available for
oastwarc
m British
They hs
monton, a
led out w
ore, our o
ty. Wm. :
This son
t the Inc
ntry.
I2d~.
40
d for a iiiilo on oiuh
i^j)rinf^ aiul dtirinjif ttiu
•0 iioaily <lry, and ui,
tU^'O.
iti'itious, ami a lai'iro
)ond, about four miles
out a milo in length,
inoctod with the main
quite shallow, Holdom
) the south of thoni,
away for miles,
md is Ihoi'o light ami
)f the Bad Heart, a.
dly as possible, and
.0 the valley of Little
Lessor Slave Lake,
the direction ofLittIo '
uld bo mot with oi, '
fcvi,,L.«,iavo,-,i,,,,..l/„.,^' .,r,,l°'/_ ''>' ■" '"■""Sli •' li««i'lv lo
I
ivhito fish, woighin,"
) found in the great
llowing the iHudson
Peace IJi', or.
irt River, which was
[} some of its smalloi
twelve miles
vingan average eleVation'of V900^f;et'abu^/H!..L'l,'?'r'' 'J, "'^"'•'■)' !°^'el country,
n-lU'th prairio and fbur-lifths nonl u- m, t,l\ " ' '^'^'' '"''"'y '■''^'' «0''. about
t val'uo except for firoi^'S LS^ ' ""^"'"' "^° "'"''"'" '^"'"= ">' ■^•"'»" ^^
|.h ^'^:^^^^^;fs:;sr^^ii:r:!^^^ p-i-i-. with
|e depth of a foot wo failed to reach the" ufS '"""'''^'"^ ""'"' '^ '^''"^^ ^'^
uetweon the Smokv liivcr r>nu^ ..,,,1 w
#nning stream, the SthB iHo fe't w.r'f-' ^"'^ f ^° "''^''' ^° '^^'^'^ «"«
*.ide two small watercourses vvi'thstaLM.nVfn; i '"""' '^"'P' ^'^'^ "^ ^^^^'^^ ^"'■''""t.
% half a milo wide. «t"grunt pools, and wo passed a lake one mile long
4cc^ii; :zliiX;^'z ^r ol^i:;„^'L;r^" ^f ^'i° ^r" «-- ^« '-- been
fig south into Peace Jlivor di>^ct ind t ml! i ' •" ^''" ^'T^'' "^ ^''^ ^^''^'^'^s drain-
3e i'eaee a few miles below Smoky Jlit, "^ ""'""' '"'"^ " ^■'"°'- ^Lich joins
dilos,'Ufidrocrk°wtC^^^^^ Ij^^-of Slave Lake and back, about 260
irs were noticed ; and though so.ne of t he S i ' >:,,? f T' ?'°'" ' "'^''^ ^'^^ ''«"'•
llrich, and will become a «ptndid fam n° co fntVv if Jh<f r' '^^ ^"■"'^"'" P'-°P°''ti«"
I 1 " '"""'"o to I'ltiy It the climate proves suitable.
f ARRANGEMENTS FOR HOMEWARD JOURNEY.
.?f:"\™i"'"?j?j'""^««/'^"' A".-'«t 28th,
vhich flows into tlio
3am to its confluoncc
tid fifty-ftvo'from^thc
3t and thon descends
liver, which is there
.' being 700 foot deep.
margin of another
ad without difficuUv,
rich soil and luxuri-
ng the south. The
spruce, generally of
to 4 inches of vei,'t
l*ckafewhoursprevbu,yar^^^^^^^ that Mr. Gordo: had got
tio mule trains had arrived^l2 dT^s bSe n^,^" 1^ north ; thatlMr. Dawson with
a .mall parly. He returned on ho 30 K anS M? M '? ^'f P'^ll'S ^^oky Jii ver : , a.
% members of our expedition woJo ^0 mtf l^.^lht'"' °" «^P'«-^--.'«^ -'^ ^^^
tieg^CnSr ^^.r liSJl^K.; tt;r '^ '^ "- '^'--'^' ^« ^- 'y
marest telegraph office eastwaid at once, carrymg it with him to the
^ - ??oS-£'Srto^r;;'t;Jr"7l'lrr'"^' ''^ country south of the
Jould travel homeward over tro^same route which tfZ /^f'^^d unnecessary that I
<»portunity of gaining information of sml.-i ^ ^^Howed, and ro lose a good
lioxplored. " ""°""'^tion of some of the vast tracts which were still
;; J) therefore, determined to Kpnd Afp r t> nr ■ •.■
hi the direct route, in.stru(°ting him to waflf.^^^'^-'^T^'' T'^ ^^ *'>° '"«" «"J ""'lo^
# main forks, while T, with a ml Inanv ^ nT.?.T ^"i° ^^'T' "^""* ^^ ™i'«« f'-^"^
%rtonudson'Hnope: there S^ossove^^^h in m^^^^^^^ ^,^° north si.K .; T
f .^Y as best I could' t^ tho'^^rwiJh'iL^'Sj,!'" ''''' ^« ^^^'^-'^"^ ^^^^ "^^
.^/S°^Zt^;;'^°n' i:i^^Zr^ :!^'y^^^^ to loam that Mr. Tupper
ICO
Ind
' Comjiany have ii
&c., destined for the
left bank on an open
Smoky River, ostab
en abandoned ; ami
nvegan, nearly fiitv
4-^^ tdtSen';?:^^.;:^ :^^i'^^^^^^ ^« ^v^^^ t. ,
t»nedoutwo;.h:,ssa„dimportinorSd th«n.S <^ on September 5th, one of those
^f'oro, our c' . ; •, osourco wK trw^^^^^
lom as far as
one of those
I'ty. VVm.AicNoiirfrom Victora nnn "''™ ^^f '^'''^ reliable r
I Thissomewl^ 'd Sed my m;i;rS"f"'^^S! Jf^ ^er-thor short-hkndod:
>t the Indian who ur^liortlV o°S^
«Oiuitry. ='"'"*' '"<' to I- or t St. John did not know tho
12j-.iV
so
DUNVEOAN TO FORT ST. JOHN.
Fi. n .r>iin\ ,1 wo tnvollo'J roHhward for a day an<i a half, say 30 miloa, ami
then wc.slwiuii at an average distance of 15 miles from Peace Kiver to Fan St. John
reaching it on the 12th.
For the whole distance, nearly 120 miles, the plateau undulates comsiderably
ranging from 1,900 to 2,400 feet above sealovel. And for 40 miles, after turnin-
to tho west, there was a range of liills a few miles to our right, rising from 600 t~
1,500 ffot above tho adjacent countt-y. My guide informed me that tho stream,
on tho other side of that • ' ' .-^ ... . ■ a into the Battle and Liard Rivers
morf
)latoaii
iippreci
I
Kloven streams, fnnn l:i to 40 feet in width wore crossed, besides numeroii.
umaller ones, and Pine River North, \.'hich is situated about six miles from Fort St,
.Fohn, and was then 100 feet wide by two feet deep, but at high water m :-5t bo 3(li>
tcet wide, in a valley 700 feet deep and a quarter of a mile wide in tho bottom. Tlit
slopes on both sides are much l)rokon by old land slides.
On the west there is a bluff of decomposed shale, and on the face of the easten
slope many lodges of sandstone in nearly horizontal beds.
We saw a few small open musi<(<g.s, and had tocro.'^^ one about one mile in width
which delayed us mi I'o than four hours.
The soil is composed of white silt with a good covering of vegetable mould, bu;
for one stretch of 14 miles, this has been completely burnt off. We also passed over
two gravelly I'idges.
A few large prairies were seen, and many small ones interspersed with popliir
and willow copse.
Twenty-five per cent, of ihe distance, lay through wo Is of small popla. sprue
and black pine: near Pine River North, there was also .i bolt three miles v^de o
spruce bix to fifteen inches in diameter.
KORT ST. JOHN TO HUDSON'S HOPE.
My trip from Dunvegan to Fort St. John had occupied a longer time than
been antu-ipated, and tho season was now so far advanced t.'iat I did not dare to lir ^
en tho road, but huri.od on, keeping tho trail to Hudson's Hope. Most of Ui
way it followed tho valley of the river and was on the plateau only for 12 miles aft(
leaving Fort St. John, for ab' it three miles near Middle River, half-way between tli
two plac-- and aga^n for a s -rt distanco about six miles east of Hudson's Hope.
The ■ 11 is rii'. at each these plac 's, with prairio and poplar and willow con-
also a few dinall groves of poplar and spruce four to twelve inches in diameter.
Or. the benches next tho river, the soil is in some places light, and betuco
Middle River nnd Hudson's Hope, there is one suetch, six miles in length, grav li
and almost .ariai. That de.-. -iption of la ,1 also extends tho whole way across th
Rocky Mounttin portage.
We crossed only one stream of importance, J:i(idle lliver, which was then
feet deep by 150 feet wide, and . ilmeof freshet 450 feel wide, besides three othci
from 12 to 25 feet across, vith u tew ver}' small ones.
On the east side of ddlo liivor and about fifteen miles North of the Pea-
a range of hills 1,000 o- 00 -t high was obsc , cd running nearly east and wc-
F'ires were raging the ! h in many place;-, and we had to ride through or.
belt of woods burning L , .kly at iho time, which wo did with ditiiculty as the^smok
and ashes were blinding, and the heat was very gr^ ' ; fortunately, tho tii lioi ■
fairly open or we should have been stopped.
Regarding tho country nortn of Peace River, I nouced that from the e.t.stei
base of th3 Rocky Mountains, about twenty miles north of Hudson's Hope, n ran ■
of hills extends, nearly due east till it meets the Peace River, about twelv m
below its junction with Smoky River.
The tract of country lying south of that rantre. and between it and th
Peace, is generaiiy fertile, but that portion of it west of the longitude of Daaveg:
/ W,
fo Pine
|iiornin;
liiver b
Js thci'O
|fth mi
liill side
S,050 fe
I Ac(
iiioiiM I
%nd in n
|>f prair
I Gri
llope, a
nly lev
lake fi'o
lounlui
he onl'
Thi
*ii<!. hav
©oth pai
'[ Foi
kn Irish
Order to
untip r,
logj. '
joiild eai
luilo eqi
I Wo
on tun
Jhopnod
ihiall ba^
■ind these
Size, that
I iliorcf'o
•Come tu .
by Armsl
Mv I
24th \vu 1
1 esti
tad trave
4,200 feet
1 e.\-])cetci
In th
swamps a
«pruce.
We h
i^r nine n
%)rae port
I half, say 30 milos, ntnl
llivcr to Fort St. John
undulates considerably
miloH, after turiiiii;'
lit, rising from 600 ti
d me that the stream-
iard Rivers.
Hsed, besides numoroii-
si.K milos from Foi't St
igh water miit bo IJdi!
do in the bottom. Tin
51
Is more umliiliUing nnd at a slightly higher i'lovati(
jilatouii in t' "
iiftprei'iablo ]iL'r ci'iiiage ot ]y
ill • .1 i> i>- ,■ ^ '"" than the otiior nortioiis of tiiij
|,latouu >n the Poaco Kivor .1, strict, which I had travelled ovlr an. InV an
]ier ci'iitage of poor soil, '
HIDWOn's HOI'K to PIVK ItlVEK.
1 tho face of the oartleri
bout one mile' in widtl
)f vegetable mould, hu;
Wo also passed over
iterspersed with popliir
uf small popla, sprue
ilt throe miles ^^ ido o:
a longer time than '
I did not dare to lit ,:i
I's Hope. Most ol lii
on]_y for 12 miles afii
■, half-way between thi
of Hudson's IIopo.
iplar and willow coji-
;he- in diameter,
ces light, and betwee;
iles in length, gravi'lh
3 whole way across th'
iv. which was then •
0, besides three other
North of the Peace
nearly east and wes:
1 to ride through om
Jiliiculty as the smokt
itely, the til .her wiv
Lhat from tho ouster
dson's Hope, a ran^'
r, about twelv milt
1 between i' and [^
ngitude of bunvog;;
, We lujacho,! Iludson s Hope September 15th, and tried to obtain a gui.lo to take ,i.
to Pme River, but failed, as the Indians were all absent; liccordinds^ wo left next
fnorning and tollowo.l a Inuiting trail to Moberl y's Lake. This trail aMonds from Peace
liiver by a series of benches, and at one and uhalf milos rea.hos the plateau which
IstJicro about 2,000 feet above sea level, and continues at the same elivSlI' to the
fifhrnilo; I then passes over a ridgo 000 feet above tho plateau and along a steep
Jill side to he south-western ond of Moborly's Luke, at in estimated elevation of
j:,OaU feet above sea level
i According to the best sources of information at my disposal, Moberly's Lake
l.oul.l have been situated two-' '.Is of tho way across from the Peace t- Pino Rive,
nd in a country htted for settlement, though somewhat hilly and with lar-o areas
•^pf prairie land. " '^
hr.r^'"'\ 'r' '"y surprise, therefore, to fln.l myself only nine miles from Hudson's
IIopo. and hemmed in by hills, rising from .{,000 to 4,500 foot abovo sea level the
«nly level and visible, being in the valley of .Moborly's River wl,i.h empties into the
|»l<o from the west; and further, that between me and Pine River lay a ranjro of
■tnounf uns at least sixteen miles broad, rendered almost impassable by fallen timber
the (uily prairies being on the slopes of steep hills facing the south
% rhero was no possibility of retreat : th- party on Pino River was waiting for as •
loth aS"^^ '^ ^^"''"^''^' ''^ P'"«^''-^'°"«' '''-''"y "^'K'^t prove disastrous to
,^ Foi tunately, I was able to reinforce my little band by on-aging tho eorvicoa of
«n Irishman muued Armstrong, whom wo found building a shanty for himself in
<.-dcr to hunt during the winter; ho had spent part of the summer at the lake
Siintii -. prospecting for gold, and catching fish for tho support of a number ofslcisll
^ogs inging to the Hudson Bay Company. ^
i ^}' '-'^^'^'V^ero then, September 17th, very abundant, and ho gave us all wo
i?,r n^^WT; ^ll'^yy^'f"^ f';''"\ j '■> .'V^; V" '''''''S^^> ^°™ ^'^-'-y ^^^ and seemed to mo
luilo equal to tho far-famed white fish of Lake Huron.
I We followed tho valley of Moberly's River, south-wostw.ards, for eight miles and
tion turned southwards up a small tributary. Aft, i- four days, during which we had
|hoppod our w.-iy through fallen timber from day-light to dark, I found myself in a
fnall basin with hills rising ste.ply 1,000 to 1,200 feet or, ' ,th ;-,ides and in front
ma these, wher< not actually precipitous, were so strewn with fallei' umber of lanro
me that It scemvd a hopeless task to attempt to cut our way 'brough without helij
i llierelorc sent two men ahead to find Mr. Major and got H)mc of his partv to
•me to . ur assislanco, while I remained behind to take cai\5 of tho mules assisted
Armstron;', who had cut his foot with an axe.
My mossengcM's returned three days afterwards with ^ix men, and on September
in \vu reached Pine River and joined the main party.
1 estimated that wo were then only f-Lventeen miles fi ,m Moberly's Lake but
^d travelled nearly thirty, and in tho last four miles had passed over a mountain
1-00 feet above sea-level. W e wore also about twenty milos west of tho point where
,ex])ectcd to hnd myself. '■
1^ In the fir.st Hvc milos from Iludson Hope \\o had crossed two small tamarac
W^amps and some stretches of light, sandy soil, with a small growth of poplar an.l
1 We had again met with gome level land in tho valley of Moberly's River which
■r nine miles abovo the lake avorasos nearly half a mile in width in the bot-om
^meportionsof this are gravelly and barren, and others fertile, with a few small
52
Botwoen M- ,orly'H LaUo und Pino Rivor there is now a yo.inL' lm-owH, of Hi.n, a
black ,, me and poplar, hut the pile, of fulle. timher proved \ho existen 'o no^ ^ i
ago of Hpruco torestn ot moderate ni/o, and u fow heltn of that timher, U in to " i
(liumettT having escaped the ravages of Hre, arc atillslundinL'. "J
IMXK RIVER TO THE 81'MMIT OK THE PASS.
T ..b '^Y ^T"'^ characteristics of the country, from this point westward to Stew
Lake, have been fully described by Mr. Hunter in your report of 187S fAppend k
and as I am prepared to endorse that description, it seems unncees arl/fo m
^.uch on any bu the more .alient features, as seen from an enginooring po j,
view, in connection with railway construction. ««""« point ^
of nnl ril''!"'?f "!'^'7 ^H?'"' ''■''"■''. ^ .''"'"'■"'^ '^> '" '"'"'" ""■!" ^vido, from the 1.
of one h II to that of the other; and in i's westward course continues of the sane ^
for eighteen miles; it then narrows to a .piarter of a mile, and remains so, with a 1.
trifling exceptions, all the way to the suinmil, about soventcen miles farther
At a few points, where the river washes the base of the mountain^, ovi.ensl t
works uf protection might be required, and heavy excavations T go tn . i frim ^
bench to another, when thoy differ much in elevation. ^ "
One mile east of the summit there is a precipice 180 feet in height, roachi'.
right across the valley, and below it for many miles Pine liiver falls about th'
feet ror mile, so that to gam the summit with grades of one per hundred
would require to bo over seven miles of sido-hill work, principally in rock, m d t
Btrucutn^^''*''^"'^'*""'"'^^^''*^*^^"'''"'""^"^ "" ""-''''""^ obstriiclions to railway c,
Ae wei
fe hill
•at lal
^ Th
9ino 11
dfce wl
Wi'tson
only.
I'INE RIVER I'ASS TO FORT MACLEOD.
18 JTon\t? n"wr '!,' '^^^''''^ !^c '^-certalnod to bo about 2,800 feet above sea level, llu
18 an open space which shows indications of the annual deposit of lartre auantit
^ho'par;^ ' '''^" '"'■' '""'"• ^'""^ '^' '"'^"'^'="" "" *'- -- "'^ oatteJn side
in lerfgth.*'*'''^"™ '''''"''' *'"'''" ^'''' ''^"^truction of a tunnel in rock about 1,200 t.
Proceeding westward, Azuzotta Lake discharges its waters bv a small strci
the Atemuche wluch descends 300 feet in two i^ilos to the llisinchi ca and S
river, below the point of junction, has a fail of more than twent^'tlTo S pe rnil
To keep the grades on this section within a maximum of one per hund.^jd u
requiio much sharp curvature and excessively heavy work nunuioa
The valley of the Atcnatcho is a mere gorge; and immediately below its m<,u
on the northern bank of the Misinchinca, there is a high gravel slide lb lowed
rough and rocky slopes whicd, extend for six or seven miles down the ri -ei- re.Tde
the builaing of a line along their face very expensive
to -imif oP^'.Sio° '^^'^T'"^'. ^'»° '?''f °"t in gradual, and the valley sufficiently u
to ^.imit of railway construction without much difficulty
At the junction of the Misinchinca and Parsnip rivers, the latter is 500 foet u
tttSo7wltef '"'' '''^"'^ ""^ '"^""' "'^ ^"- ^'^'-t-Jr/t'ocJobcTi:;,
tin„p?oi^*irr^'''l°^'',T'!''^'''''.T'' ^'^"^■'' '20 feet above the water, which .
lo Tutia Lake! ' '' '" "" '''''''''''^> ""^^ ^hen descends gradtu,
Toc(
•*'eral n-
lend w
ichacol
■er to 1
pes ref
Pl|Bard to
J In y(
^ine fi'oi
jBve easy
wor that
' Wher
:M' weath
Wfrthorn >
Next
heavy rail
the camp ;
am mules
Wedi
be luirchas
burin
•l^ernatinj
i^\
J
r>3
3 Iirairics iit the lako
a yoiin^f growtli of H|.n
mI tho oxisteiifo not \,
I' that timber, tJ in, to l.' i
ding.
PASS,
)oint westward to Sleu;
ortof 187S (Appendix (.
ns unneceMHary for nio
I an ongineoiing point
r
FORT MCI.EOD TO STEWART RIVER.
mile wide, fionrj tho I
contitincrt of tho munv
ind remains so, with a
teen miioa farther,
tho mountains, expen>
ionH in getting from o
feet in lieight, reacli:;
Ilivor fullM about thii
' one per hundroij, th^'
eipaliy in roclt, and ve
fears need bo entertain
^ Tlio section of c Mmtry between tho Pael< Hivor an<l tho Stewart is not favorabin
»r railway construction ; t has been well desorib.xl hv \u. ii,. . u • '"V"" "'"
up l.v sandy and gravcli; ri.b.es ow boi^^ ^v fl^ h m 1 7 •"*"'■ ''' ^"'"^' ^™''*-^"
Ik:.I^ with s,iuilllal<es ami ^SiHtS^^
fcnondly blad.pi,,e,spruce^u;'d'b:iamTt"^^^^^ " «* ''"''^ -'-' ^eing
No doubt a line of railway could be constructed between tho two rivers and in
10 neighborhood of the trail from Foil McLeod to Fort St. Jarnos '
In leaving the former place it ascends nearly 700 feet in twelve miles • tho ,rrn,l«
iwevor, could be somewhat eased by crossin-' tho I'uck R vr . l^n fn ».'• ;''° ^'"''®'
e miles below the fort and aseendin-- al m. iVjdo o thn jflll! '^ '' ''"V "'"
tniclions to railway c ^'''^' 'hough princij)ally
Ofeot above sea level, tli
(posit of hirge quanlit
ho south eastern .side
1 in rock about 1,200 l.
iters by a small stron:
!io Misinchinca, and tl ;
■enty-tivo feet per mile
af one per hundred woi^
odiAtely below its mou
:ravel slide, ibllowed i
down the river, ronderi:
6 valley sufficiently w:
he latter is 600 feet w'.i
forded it October It-t,
-e the water, which ci;
then descends gradual
STEWART niVER TO [.'RAKER LAKE.
bSHFl^f SiEiiHr- =«sV!:r
|ei' that statement. sinocoocui leii to cause me to
WINTRY WEATHER.
54
liard.hipfl. poMMhcd and wo ourselves migh; have oxpcriencod manv
qualities whou fVo.on, as th^JM m-h L./r ?, "°"" '7.^" "«* retain their succulo.r
torinined to liL'l.ton thLa,>M«i;; '*'?''"''" ^^'-i^i^h Columbiadoos), that 1 d..
a boat bolon;,ii^/r t lo J^Xo„ IvV'"'-'''''""? ,T'"''''' ^°"''^ ^° «P^"'^'' ^^'^h mo
and thence l^^- L Fn.se live t gu,^sno/M'^;,^''T'^; ^'?'^' '^^ '^ ^'^'-^ *^°«'-'~'"
17th. and at onee hired two ho;w ': uf tl 'T''^ l''"'*^ ^ '"'"■'''^^ «» Oetob.r
tiie train. ' "' ' '"'^ '"'-• ^liem with gram and sent them out to me.'
.i.ouifll'i^n:'^;^^;:;;^:;';;;;:,;;;:;: st-- --' -"^f" ^-^ ., ,^.os„ei m saa.tv
Karnloops. DuWng the M-as n wo i ."" "" '""'"^ ''^ '^'^'' "''"t'^'' n"=''-t«>'« =''
^, season wc h.id moved camp one hundred and one limes,
CLIMATE.
»x„cHo,',r„f"„;;„";£,„;."' i;,t',',i' ;;S,"'if";.!?:T '■;■■■■"! ■ «"■»'"- '■ '"■
«.,ld and wot .>„„ ,,,„1„,, ilZro,L7JZ>y,' '"' '""" "" «-^"r""»'»ll'
Iho following Statement ot dw, "'""".v so.
po,ts throws a little light on the mattoi^'"' ''^''■' '°''" ''^ "'" ''"'''''"' ir-^t'^on Bav
barlet^iuKiig ;;S;";'J,^S~«;|J ^- ^;>"J most kinds of ga,.len vegetables a,.'
country, but ..one near the shore ,7 St, v'.,T. "^'H """'^ T ''^^ '^'"'^ ""^ "'iaee,)'
digging potatoes, othe.- vc^' los . ..,1 .'^i ' ■"'" '',"'f''° "'' "'" ^'^"•' ^^o^'" •>'-
A small herd ot cattle n^X^Zu^lET "l"^ ^*?" ''.""r"^ ^""'"^''"'^ previou.lv
winte,. ben,g out in son.o of .I'^aJ^.ar'^ii^'^'^' '"' ''""" ""^"'"'^^ ''--^ ^'''
fort jiaeleoil, .Iiilv liili icii, ir .
vines of which had bcc-n uJL , L '' 7? 'f "" ""'" ' ■'^'^•'^b'-looking potatoes, tl,-
with a few .nise..ible ollion. ^''«K'-'^""J '"^"ne. A tine c.-op ofpeaUnd carVoi-
the elevatio.. ;-iOO feet less wl i 'h h „' d ^ i '"""' "'''■''' '^'"' ^'''''^ ^'- J^me. an,
tudo, but the cli.nate see ms^ , '" T^^ -compensate for tho ditle.'ence in la.i
P'-obably to its closer p.v.xl n v ,'> Z > K 'V? " ''•' '""A*^ ^'" '^'^"•i«>--''"'-'S owin.
vegetableswe,ehouseda,.r,^HnchniM :?;''''•';''■'■ ^" October 2..d, r4 il„ ^
Hudson's Ho,H. J„u. L^? C:'' il T , ,'"''T ''^^' "',' ^'^'^ ^"■"""''•
and onions we.^e ve y (in,. ■ , otli ;.,..! ."". '," '''" >'^"'^"" ''^ " -'"'^^ ^'^"'iy i"''"i '
May 1.5th, beans were Mllfl iZ<^T. !", "'" "}'"''"'' '^>' " '^"^"^ '■'■''^' ^b,,.
tl:;;^':srl:r;;^;v:::i\;;b^^
^"^ rri.-'win;;':.;s if - -'''^ -r"^ ^'---"" "^ "^ ""'' '" "
c t-onty outofVl.; rt ;;:!::::\;:;;'r'-;"'"'^'3---. '-^ '" the wmterof isi.
IJeturning the,-o, S.pt.m t ' • T' "TT'' "'^ ''>« ^'^*^P ^i"^^-
a ve.y poo,, crop, and th , w ,( I • d l^: :, ''l ''" ^T'^ ""^ 'l!^^'*'""^ '>''<' P'-<"l"ced on^ I
milk slage, ,-c,,do,i,,g it uhE! ^^ ''""'' ''^'''' ''•">^"". while the grain was in th I
t.u'n^i;' "ilnfa'' "'rloj.f "';,J|;|:^ ^'o'mWd'" w",r' '"""'TT' '"^^'*'"-' -"'"- - ^
excellent barley. OnSen(c, 1^ .^,i i '''' ^^'"''^m. had a small patch . '
rega..ds quauti.V "nd .,u Iv 1, t he b. h,vT''; T'' "" ?F"' '^'"' •-•■^°^"^'' b.tl, a
much of it eatci., the o'wno.^'.nvin. be<m uL i '"'," "■'■ '^"" •'"^"" ''>^ '"''m .1^ mi,
criminal charge. '"""Vingbeeu .UTosted an 1 taken to Edmm.ton oi, .„„,
close by, there wore tine ..'.i.o,..'. !!.,'.'."''"'' "'"' '^'■"^.^'> J. ^^hi'" at tho R. €. llissifv
ii'op of
fosultod
Jill some
the wl.i
^lission,
*|>!icceed(
;' Lof
{turnips,
M. C. M
I
;f<onio ve
■ioccur at
iiBoa, and
Orountai
liavo in(
The
Svalley o
%dvanta|
?it is rigl
fell as beer
iaiso thai
h'ogetabi
Eas
jthan tw(
-•; however
i! drifts ofl
■^ Wo
tiic lattc
Tho
and two I
Dur
meter at
Agu
' on tho 2
On
•and tho 1
■ olten wa
Fro I
JiUko, on
cast of t
VVhi
on throe
I'liring t
Wo
was cost
was decic
ji'itul
toes, ouiuns can':
aid
a luxuriant but very bac
Kw.ir
As t
rived at:
tho Kivei
and that
jiass coul
Tho
offers a
■<ixty .nili
55
iss, I foel convinced thiv
avo oxporiencod many
veary and weukoued bv
)t retain their succiilor:
)liimbiaUoo's),that 1 de
d bo spared with mo ii
; river to Fort (Joor<r|.
•0 I reached on Oclobn
d sent them out to meu
)t to (^iiosnel in safety
lieir winter quartern a'
•od and one limes.
:t conclusions from ijk.
boon an excoptionalh
! various Hudson Bai
ii^rardcn vegetables an:
tiio hills and aJjaeeii'
at the fort wore \n\>\
-1 sometime previouslv
sustenance durm<j tli.
'-lookinij j)otatoos, lli.
'op of peas and carrot-
n manurevl foi- a yrca
m Fort St. James, an i
the ditl'orence in lati
For agrieu.airc^, owin.
October 2nd, i;!| tin
5 ground.
is a good sandy Unm
y a severe frost aboii:
y had started afrosh
and a few stalks woi'
that tho frost in Mav
n tiie win!er of IS;,'
3 deep snow.
OS had produced on'
iho grain was in tli
potatoes, onions an
a small patch
uid e.KCollent b iLb a
ilovvn by anim ilsaii
Fdmontou nn .son.
there 'wei'o tine cn)|i
at tho R. 0. Missin
It but very hack war
<rop of wheat, a condition of things which Mr. Tossier, the priest, explained to us had
i-osultcd from a long drought, causing to lie in the ground without sproutin'-th -grain
tdl somo h-avy ram occurred at tho end of May. From August 2Hth, to September 5th
tho wheat at the Ibrt was cut, but tho grain was not perfectly ripe; that at the
i^IisHion, was injured by frost and there was no hope uf its riiicning, other crops had
■f>acceeded well. " '
Lesser Slave Lake, August 20th. In the garden of the fort were peas, beans
iturnips, carrots, potatoes and rhubarb, all looking well. And in the garden at the
p. C. Missi„n were the same vegetables, also onions, cabbages, barley (.mod) with
fome very fine wheat almost ripe and quite beyond tho reach of any A-o^ likely to
.^ccur at that season. The success of these crops at an altitude of 1,800 feet above the
Ipea, a!id therefore nearly on the general level of the plateau, east of tho Eocky
Orountains, is a matter of somo importance, though the proximity of the lake may
have intluen^jd the tempeiature.
; The gardens at Hudson's Hope, Fort St. John, and Dunvegan, are in the
iTalleyofFoace J{iver, many hundred feet below that level, and they have also the
advantage of a great deal of heat, reflected from tho adjacent hills. Li tiiis connection
'It IS right to mention that all tho seed used by tho people in 'tho Peace Kivor district
idias been grown year after year in the same ground, and generally without manure
|also that they have not the most improved and earliest varieties of either ^rain or
ivo)j;etablos. "
Eastward of Hudson's Hope it is said that snow seldom lies to a irroater depth
.than two feet, and hor.-<es winter in the open air; when it attains that thickness
.however, they resort to the slopes of the valley facing tho south, where the snow
rdritts oft, leaving the grass bare.
■ \Vc had been in the valley of Peace iJiver, from tho mountains to Dunvegan in
tlic latter part of July, and the weather was then warm and mild. '
The month of August was spent between Dunvegan and Lesser Slave Lake
and twenty-three daj's of it on tho plateau. '
During that timo there was frost on the morning of tho (!th, though the thermo-
meter at 5 a.m. had risen to 4()°.
; Again, on tho 2Gth, when it was still 5° below the freezing point at 5 a m and
|<Mi the 27th when it had risen to ;}3° at 4.30 a.m.
i On the other twenty days tho lowest reading, between 4.80 and 5 a.m.. was 39'^
sand the highest 05°. Tho weather was clear and fine and in the afternoon, it wart
Molten warm enough to send the thermomeler uj) to 80° in tho shade.
: Prom the time of leaving Dunvegan, September 5tb, till we pa.ssed Moberly's
. Lake, on the KjHi, we were on tho level of tho plateau, and m^ght still bo considered
■. oast of the mountains. There was frost on eight nights out of" the twelve.
j While breakfiistmg at 5 a.m. on the OH,, the thermometer still stood at 20^, and
l| on three other mornings it had not risen above the freezing point at that hour
During that time the weather was generally clear and bright. '
AVe had line hut cold weather from the l7th till the summit of Pine River Pass
was crossed on 28th and from that timo till we reached tiuesnel on (Xtobor 17tli it
was decidedl}' wintiy, with hard fVo>is.
OK.VEIl.U, RKSCI.TS.
As the result of the season's explorations, the following conclusions may be ar-
: '''^''"'' ."*• H'?^ ** northern route for a railw.ay (an be foun<l from Port Simpson v><i
the Kivors Skeenn, Babino, Driftwood. Omenica an i Finlay to tho PeaceKivcr Pass •
and that some other, though more < ircuitous routes are available by which the .same
jiass could bo reached.
The Peace Kivor which is the lowest known jiass through the Rocky Mountains
otters a wonderfully favorfiblc Hmo for a railwav thnnurl, that vaiv^o, and for
Mxty miles east of its mail, suir.mits. - o o ,
...f^^"***"'
'WS^^,:
'Tb
56
^^nJ^'^:^\i&r^J^'£^.J^!:!±S^^^^^^
valleys of grout depth ondo • he conruct ion 0^.;'^'-''°'!''^ landslides, and late,
tho Hides of the nvC- ve.y d£lt?rf tlTCacftica't!: '^ """"^ -mediately alo,
^>ln.o„to by.j;;V^^ho'turix^^^^^ «'-« ^^^«. <>^- '
.,...„.^^°u^ '"?,^^1\*"" P^^'^J^ «'«o a remarkable onran
greater than that by the reaerR^v ' u ^'ii°^ ' '^ '^*'"^''l ^'^'^ '''"''"^'°" ''^ "^"''
range would bo IMiter A fWni li r '' '? Pf «"'S H'roiigh the moiintui:
Skeena./.ahe Wa"oK?„;i.Kive. p^l''y^^^ "^"x.^""^ ^™"^ ^''« ^'^"^y «'' "'
this pass, butsuch a e vo,!^, hL\^^^^^^ -^^^^^^^ ^"^'"^ ^^^'^^^o^ ^ connect wit;
northern one. '''^'''^'■>'''"''="'t«"^ ""'I -"any miles longer than ti:
<>^oJi:^:iS;':i^:::i^::;:!:;s^^ t.. other .en.b.
extending eastward from thc^ bo hi |s of ,^^ ■' " ^nict of groat fertiiit
Lesser HIave LaUo. "^ ^''^ "^^'"'''y Mountains at Hudson'-, Hope
Lesser HIave LaUo.
Iio4'5S"nS^i;;';:!if;';2;";^"^^'^r'"'' it .outl.. westwards to ,he bueoof tl,.
it reaches to the north is sti I n > LI? ' ^''T'' «-^'<^"''n that direction. How 1:,
observation «ith • p', ^^ ' ^f "^ saw, and can speak frona person,
if the climate proves su ble Sn tuJll 1?. ''"' ?''"' ^""= ^^ «»'^y wide whicl.
On the last noint I l,',.-nVn • i . "^ ^° surpassed as an agricultural district.
and my own n r Z on is thn^ r ''^ ^"f" ^^''.^'/u''" *'^« information at my disL.
cattle Ling hZnwitrVrthoT,"^\T'''';'^',T^:'
har(licrce.x^.lsandprobibvofwhe t nmJ ,.H* .''" ^'">'' °^ vegetables, and th,
maturity before the fros in ear v n , '„'n v •^V''^'''"^''^' ^™ "^'"'^ ^^''"^''^ comei
ally occur, but that h^s bceVtl e^c^ n T • ^h "^^"^^^ ''"'■'''''' *"■'"'•«« ^"' o^^'-^^'"'
northern hemisphere, ^htrariVsil^Vrsf,:,^ '^^^^ P^"^« "^ ^''
wor£ip^jSi\i;K;ru:t:r a^^;/-^s.5^^^ -^ «••- —
fbrastS^c^o"'^""^"^^^'"""^'^-^'^^ ComiLy;i>3;?'we are much indebt.
tcndSr;?SewSZ?rD^,^;^'^5V'T"'"r'^f «^- J-"-- ^'- Supen,
trouble to lUrnish us .iS ^l^^'^S'.Si:. ind'Shl^^""^^"' ^^'"^ ^•''"•'' '
1 have the honor to be, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
«>^--.u. IM,KM,^., K.,., C.M.G ir.J.CAMniK.
Lnginoor-in Chief, Canadian I'aciiic Kailwiv
Ottawa.
■T>S
57
e land slides, and latcia
ilway immediately alon.
?.blo lino ma^- be secure,
passing' to the south c.
r'i.ne Eiver, a few mile,
or Slave Lake, ui- t ■
^h the elevation is muci
through the mountui
from the valley of il,,
C'Leod to connect wii.
miles longer than tl,
APPENDIX No. 3.
REPORT ON EXI'LORATrONS MADE BETWEEN PORT HIMPSON B. C, AND HATTLFFORD N -W T
VIA THE VALLEY OF PEACE RIVER, DURINU THE SEASON OK 1870 HV IIENRV \ -'
MACLEOD, ' " w A. .
by the other membei. i
I a tract of great terti lit
IS at Hudson'-. Hope •
wards to the base of tl
that direction. How i,
n speak from person
ig by fifty wide, whit'
igricultural district,
nation at my tlisposa
suited for stock raisiiK
of vegetables, and tl
are used which come !
1 failures will occasioi
in many parts of tl:
1 and other assistaii;.
.•e are much indebtc I
t. James, the Superir.
i^-egaii, who spared i;
servant,
ir. J. CAM HI K.
Ottawa, 7th February, 1880.
. ^'"r ''If the honor to report that I made an exploration of the country
ilyiiig be ween Port Simpson, B.C., and Edmonton N.-W.T. by way of Peace Rivor
rin accordance with your in.structions dated 12th and LSth May 1870
L. I wa« directed to co-operate with Mr. Gamble in the e.Ka'minations from Por*
rSimps^n to Slave Lalo, and with Dr. C. M. Dawson of the Geological Survey, from
SJ'mo E.ver to Edmonton and Lac La Biche. Mr. R. L. Tupper was directed u,
^proceed via Winnipeg to Edmonton, thence across the country following api.roxi-
|mately a given direction to Dunvegan on Peace Elver, at which place it was
jcxpected that all the parties would arrive about the same time •
■ The main object of the exploration was to determine how far it was feasible to
jconstruct the ra.lvvay passing through the Pino River or Peace River Passes
|in he direction of Lac La Biche or Edmonton, and to ascertain the approximate
^Ydhjw Head Pass ^ ''^"'P'''"'"' ^'^ ^"^ '"''''° '^''^'^ ^^'^ ™»te« «'''cady surveyed via
i f n^l Q-'® ^^"^^ time it was required to make a general examination of the TCarbor
|of iort Simpson, of Work Inlet, and the approaches to them from the Skcena River,
|a so an expbration fi-om the mouth of the Skeona to the Forks, and thence via Fort
|bt. James through the Pino and Peace River Passes.
I Thecapabilitiesofthecountry, in an agricultural point of view, along the pro-
|posed routes were to be noted, particularly in the Peace River countrv.
I -llie party loft Toronto on the 13th May, arrived at San Francisco on the llHli
^andat Victoria on the 24th.
'-■ J^ being necessary to wait hero some days to make arrangements, J crossed to
see Burrard Inlet. I also ascended tho Fraser to Yale, and dmve ov^r the wa-.ron
..road to Boston Bar, so as to enable me to form a comparison between that route andUie
I one proposed up tho valley of tho Skeona.
', Having made final arrangements for forwarding supplies by trail to Fort St
g James to meet us we sailed on the 3rd June for Port Simpson, arriving there on tho
I .Ih. In passing Metlahkatlah, we engaged Indians and canoes for life journev uu
sthe Skcena. j j i
P
I POUT SIMPSON.
i,
I The steamer, drawing 10 feet, entered tho harbor of Port Simpson at low tid.-
|i.y tho southern entrance, after waiting for an hour she passed out by tho northern
I entrance. Ihe main entrance is from the west between Birnio Island and extensive
fucs lying to tho south about a mile distant, many of these reefs aro uncovered at
-iiow tulo and form a good breakwater to tho western sea.
^ vv„ r ? ^''^'^°^ '•' SO"d' ^"'^ •'' «l>(>ltered from tho S.W. round by south to tho N.W.
^Westerly winds would swoop with considerable force across the harbor, but would
I riot beaccompanied by much sea. Captain Lewis of tho Hudson's Bav C-. Mv^ li'-"d
I mere lor some iime and has had long experience on tho coast, considers it a very
58
oven for tl.CHiteoi-alurgo" town ° ^' "'"""" "'" ''"'"' ""'^ '^ •^"'^^'■■■«"''
as sites for liX ho, os no s^^^^^^^ l^o 'Uilize
I-.iot Tho'mf.Hh'n.^n'"^'T\''° '""'^ ^'^ '''° ^'"^'•'^"^•" ^"^' "P to the head of Wav^
>>bo.it ibu. J" aV o " "Tt'w"ir^' "'' cioop, and the c./lTont with ebb lide w:,
thL.cotowithiithreotu thsofZi^ ,"'" 'T'^'''^ "^'^ -« ^'"f'^"^"
Siitlioms -It fiiin f,.;V f 1l , ° °^ t"° ''""il "o bottom was found at -
.he hmr-\te;:ri'Jnl5Ztt'£r^^^^ ^^^'^ '-^ f "^T'^^-^'^ ^'^ PonSimp^on botwce:
leachcd. In this latter nortinn^t ^""'*' ^°tt.ng steeper as the oad of the inlet ;•
^vido extending o'.tf'300?o4rferu;'S'h;in^^^^^^^ ''''''''''''' '' '^ ''' ^^
e-i. !;:ssrsia: ^,^^''' «^-- «-■•- ••-""« '" " -->-.
a«ce„vrthTsL\K,i7i/eitr:f jlf "z ? ''"' '^"'"^'^^"•' f ^ '"'™-^ ^i-
iec from the SIccena and '4t , I ^f ■u-VK''''^ currents with each tide, and th
tain seasons. •^''''" ^"'°'' "''" '"'erfere with the anchorage here at co;
SICEEN'A RIVER.
I'ort E^Sr to Sfr w! I ^'"^r '"^^''^ ^^'^''^ ^'^''^'' "^^'^^ "-« ^"°« i-,
following ,M tL ma n vui ov of .. Kl ''''?; '^T' ^°'' '^ ^"""derable distance, an
' here are fren uont ovon hT>,5ho T^'v' "'"' f '^''^'' '^^ '^^ ^^^^ «'^'"° character an
V, Kn u ° " ^"''■''" 'i'l^""t!».i,'o over that in the vallov of the Fr-iso.
M-hici^viin:ar?rbo";i";;;ed*.:;ain:r" "^'"^ "■'^ -'''" ^'^^^'^ «"--'•"-• ^h'-
which will require Ut',u on ^^P^ ?"H. '\'"'''?' ' ''''^^ «^'^ «now-slides, o,..
r.nd valloysrw^ith Uln'd's'ami smilV' oughs "^^ ''" "^'""^'^' ^'^'"•° ^''^ «-'^" '^-^''^
J ->»< i«... nun .MiuUs to tho top. J lio tieiichcs :!
t^e fool
iroach
car,
vcv a
t ope
Th(
id moi
snov
icents
Tht
ind isla
ill be I
Jvers V
Simsc
':: On
ind isia
f et high
fivo rocli
Jlnd a ha
f grave
' In t
Ijirly at i
^' heavj
' d 300 ,
e rest ^
#hich he
The
detached
places.
\fork on
ill ascend
|de hill,
fi'idges fi
The
vea poi
bout tw(
ay be pe
ireams, i
ilufl'isfi
reams.
In th
<Sbuntry ii
ftoavy wo
|ay bluff,
ftur Htrea
|D0 feet e
ti'ong rai
Tho I
I'ocks, f
idd benoli
fee!)ing a
<j^ heavy i
^0 rest of
river is ab
tlv,'\it and
i In th(
W"-i liicie
3.E. in summor and fvn\
ores juid in .Mufficienir
n as tho I'ointcrs ai
can, and can be utilize-
exc-ipt within a nlior
ip to tho head of Wai'
iirront with ebb tide wa.
no to two miles, and th
niing was 28 fathom-
ttoni was fouml at 'r
■0 tiiat wo found no par
;o Poi't Simpson botwco:
ir tho shore line, whici
tho oad of tho inlet :■
noticed, 50 to 200 ice
!t, but there is probab!'
running in a south-oasi
ton, and commenced th
I with each tide, and th
anchorage here at ce;
, about nine miles froi:
isiderablo distance, an
he same character, an
along the north shor.
ntains are nearer th
shore line is shallow
was noted in this par
om the water, at abou:
bare and polished, an
feet wido.
9 abundant to admit,
tion of tho railway i:
■y of tho Fi-aser.
tho head of the tide i
there are on tho nort:
tervening valleys, an
tor is shoal in fronts
it snow-slides, throi' ^
lints, two of whicli a;
ive snow-slides, one
lero aro small beucho
a more even charaotc ^
top. The l)encho3 :i; W"^
e foot of tho hills are m®ro frequent and continuous. Only two rock points an-
,roac-h tho water, one of them will probably require a short tunnel. Five snow uZ
ccur, one of which will require particular attention. At tho mouth of tro Kst n^o
iropenin^g"'' ^'^ ^"" ^''' ^''^' '""-^^ ^' ^™-^«''^' '^''^•'"« ^ bridge of lOo
Tho valley continues to widen out on the next ten miles, an,l the flats aro wi.lor
,d more ox ensive. About onofourth tho distance heavy side hills an hoi ,ws
snow-slides come near the water. Tho current of tho river is.sviftor an .e
icents more difficult. The vstoow Jiivor will require an opening of 30 feet'
The work on the following 8 miles would be moderately ifght on bench flats
ind islands sojiarated by small sloughs. At seven points of rm.k an.i side h^ I 'tb?i-e
ill! be about two and a half miles of heavy work. ThoSimaguan and Kits m^^^^^^^
, On the next 11 miles the work is generally moderately light on benches flaN
iu islands with narrow sloughs At the Ksijkoeagh Falls, which a^ St ti;o
iet high, there will bo heavy work in following round a doop larrow bay Also ,
ivo rocky points arid bays near the mouth of '"the Zymoots^Kivor, Tn alfabou ono
i|nd a half miles of heavy work. The river is very rapid and tho b'mks inl h ,1.?,!
|f gravel towards tho upper end aro 70 feet hi-h ''"'
LJ^f^ kTV^^''° ""^ "'1^' following the work is moderately heavy, particu-
|rly at the Kitsalas Canyon and some distance on each side of it, or about two m'Je.
fJZ^fZ?'- Tho sides of the canyon are perpendicular, and\xbou?0 octTirh
^trlf SI Pf *; ^^^? ^™ two portages, and the water falls about 15 feet fer
-T i.l^'^A !!^r"'"r '"^1° ^•O'n the river in tho following nine miles with smali
tes Tl V" *ir' ^»J«'>i"d ^hich ihe line can h. located^to advantag^Tn o^o^al
[laces. The height of tho mountains near tho river are from 1 to 2 000 feet Tlf.
jork on this portion will be moderately light on flats, and gravelly bond o'oKcett
.p ascending some high benches, and in^ passing two roc^^y po.=^.ts an^a S
ide hill in a 1 about one mile of heavy work. There are four stream" rcoi id ni
I'ldges from 30 to 50 foot and ono'200 feet. ^ ^
* V. J^^-T'!!""" tho succeeding 11 miles will bo generally moderately li.rht At
venpoiuts he work will bo heavy, in passing rocky poinls and side hi Is in al
x)u twomil.s At Quatsallix Canyon the rocks aio 200 feet hb'l lu t'ho line
ay be perhaps behind tho knolls and save a mile of heavv work. Tl oi'^ are throHarl
earns, requiring from 100 to 300 loot bridges each, one of them op os to vS
In the next 19 miles to Kitwungan VillaL'e, the valley wi.lens out and tho
av l-ri''™-";?" '" «P.P«"':''"^«-tl'ere aro some good flats with grassan i pe vino-
m. streams, ,n all about six miles. Tao streams will require bridges of 1 fun
Ig rapids.""' ''"''' "''' ''"' '''''■ '''' "'"'" '•'"■''' <^' "^'"'-'^ ^^'T -ilt' wiul
The banks of the river for 1 1 mile.- following are rough and broken with noints
, 1 ±'H"'V""'r^ ^^''^ '^'"'^^ ""^'^^y ■''^'^ ff"-"^^'"'. alto'^rnating wt \ia ow'^ f^' s
id bonohes from 20 to IdO foot above tho rivor. A lino may" poss blv be fo n i
ierSthorl^^^^'""!'''' P^''J'^"'«'-'>' i" the vicinity of Kitsigucio Canyon, tr
vert abiu^ 400 H """"'i^ k"!''' ^' moderately light. At one point in the canyon the
vift anSpid '' ' Sonm-My tho width is 800 foot. The current is very
In tho next eight milos to the Forks, or HazU^t/^P \^il!..-e th<- -iIIpv -vi !m,
ti.e.e aro some Hats with grass and pea vino-; ' ThoblnSs'^re of d?y 'and g^-avd
(iO
Fi'oii
n.ul ,.s ..luptcd. Tlicre arc two «trcu.„. ,„ tlHs,listanco, re.iui.ing 50 foo,t of hridgllll^
inUICS OF THE SKEENA TO LAKE HAH[\E.
AtF
Oipcrccl f
trail followed from tho Forks of tho Sko.Mii tn r!..hinn T ni, „ , OiiJcrcd f
do of the valley of tl.c Watsonqu^i K^v^t !£> U^ 8^,1; 'SnrSl^ [ '¥^^;fl'«
ileo to tho mimtnit. All these Nti-n.Mm. n,.> ...;k r„ ' ." \ 'c."" „ .''^'V7'..^''^ ! This
Tho
wh.oh ch.du„-go. itswators both easterly and weslor^nt' e S mmU " "" ' ^''" i '^''-
.lheeh.>rac..rofthe country is rough and mour^tainous, unfit for railway conSimS;
^truction with deep tranvorso valleys in many places.
iho distance from the Forks to tho summit is ahout 35 miles thence to T nl- '
,,ra.oa,,x„b,,,,l.l,„F„,k.»,,., „t Lake JJabh.e, a„cl »m. tood "p^'i.'g'j °„" [tj
BABINE LAKE TO FORT ST. .lAMES.
Thojournoy to Fort St. James from this point, was by canoo to the ho^H nf
Dund is
In th
Carrie
lil then
rrior I.
! undulj
The t
itlie san:
n dijsci
ulatinj
|amp Iti
From
isiuif ov
amp Ki
For tl
valley leading to the head of the l^lmo^i^^^^ ''''" '"''^' "''^ "^""" ^'I'^kos.
Ihis valley runs j,arallel to tho lake, and tho wato " '^'"' "'■"'
higher than tho lake. On the south side of the bay a
18 a pass, leading to Tatla Lake, tho summit of which is
Jiabino. Iho approach to this pass from tho valley a](
appear to bo very dillicult. It is probable that a praclic
Tatla Lake to the .Nation liivcr. \Vo wore informed
long tho side hill, does nutj
L-ticuble line may be tound from
<h rough the pass ^ ""'" """""o^ »'>"' boats have been takei,
|ri(
The h
iley of I
Ig and si
ivy. F(
There
ie lor as
:r===»:rr=sy=#-,,.;-:
!gc of
sniiii'-s,
Hotwo(
'i bav hot t u miln 7 • ® ^""""^ " ™«''*^ «^*'"- Near the west end tluMv .
Thoil?onii! ""^'7?'"^ '"to the north-west, surrounded hv iJl^Zn.
1 ho h.-ad of this bay is aoout 4 iiuies from Trembleur Lake ^ ""
the
and
1 oaco I
On the
I'arsnip
I ho carj
I'lio m(
will roi;
'snip abo
fll
rcfiuiro about a milo .; : .'•""" tI'of<'ot of Liiko I abiiui to Fort Rubi.ie the bill si.los tinmuv U> \m Hi,U,Mn f .n
•or, bo 80,no miles bac.;,«»='-'"^'-"';;'''Jt,'^''l'.''«"d <'» H'o vuud between tbe lakes. There a riZne ) xf, . f
!ivcr which bend, to ,i„.«^"\'' «f T"^^''«. -li'vo'', ">'<! ''ro,m,l Te.oar Lake an.l Klverw iH . / . t"
s route by the tele<,'rai,l:«'|'''^''^ '"'■ "S''"'"'l'"'*-'- '' '"" ^" **«
lii itiL' 50 feet of bridirinr I
WTKWAUT I.AKK To MACI.KOLl'.S r.AKK.
via tho l»rl(.^c(,pl, trail
'J rnibm, tlion passen
^' -^'-^•''Ji'^^f- J"'"^-'S'Slowart Lake, on the .Itb of fuK- w,. .....i .1
\:;c«.rn,^\'f^,:i'-:,J'» "'jj- ■' «■■• — n„„ „„. ,■,.„,„ ,„o ,u....
T™^''°;"" '''■°"' ° '"'" ■ 'I'l'o trail loilo»H ll,« valk.y „r ,s,„ Mill f,„„|. f , ,
^jl .. , ^und 18 even and undulating. -'«■'"'» auoui ,j,<u (oot. fho
t||b undulations arc from (JO to 100 feot ^^vui. yju uiw muor portion
n descendH to Swamp J{,ver, distanee in all 10 miles. Tl i« ,S, L .f,; „ '1
to
t thfi fonf nf s.«,^ »f amp Knot. Iho undulations arc from 100 to 200 feet. ^
^ From Swamp itiv
n^t-inif over the wat
.'"Sfamp River, and
igand steep. From Carrier Lake to Swam, Jive ■ the w l^ „! ^""^ '^'" ^"
uy I'^n- the rest of the distanee, modeiX'uii.h, "^ «'''"^*'* **" ^'^
th a small growth of poplar and Hpru.i;^ ''^ ^'"''"' '"^"'^>' "'"^ ^"^'^^h' -il,
rail-
ibllow
n it is about 400 feeij
wsito to Fort Jkbim
970 feet above Lake.
o side hill, docs notj,
ne may be tound froni^
tats have been taker,
slands and deep bav,>i
■l\- shore. There did
o shoiv for about 3'),
pass to Trombleur 01 i
ther place where the
banks of Eabi no Lake
ot the lake, arc bold
he watershed between
ve Lake Jiabine, withj
lower than Babinf
head of Stewart Lakti
ie.
, towards the centre'
the west end there is
jndod by hi<rh hilU
MCLEOD'.S LAKK TO DLNVEUAX.
„ Hctwocn McLood's Lake and Dunvoiran the nsrtv H.V.Mn,! n.. n
|k .rains going by Fine Pass, and tho'^:?t\5?h'" r?; iyl'oat^lo;:?.^?'' *'"
I Peace Hiver to the portage, an.l by rati to Dunvegan. ^ ' " "" ^'*'"'""P
S Un the l.th Ju,y wo dcscende.l Pack River, and on the 18(h -lul \'l,U .. 1 ,
Parsnip, to the mouth of the Missinchinca Ji,ver, who e we JnU'^t^,^^^ ^^^
I the cargoes a.tross the Parsnip >>"".« wu iein«<4 i)r, J>aw«>n
3!;fr,;r;r,:!3,:;r,:;r,::.'?4,'Y''. ",'"'■ "■"! "" "«"".- 1.....1 ,.rTr„.„ ,.„„.
f.ni„ aboVo w. Mi-5iic-Li„;.:ui; '^Js.„^i°sz,^. s^ ''S::^^^
62
to the ParHnip will be heavy on the west Hide ; the bank is 120 feet hii/h, and cor
tinucH high for two miles down the river. The water-way required will be aln,,,
Should it bo necessary to bring the line down Pack Eivor there would not I,
inuch difficulty in doing so, as the banks are generally low, from 10 to 30 feet an
there are many flats On the left bank, near the Parsnip JlJver, the banksare stcei
and rise from 100 to 200 foet. There are several places' where 'the line could SS
cross Pack River below Trout Lake . Tlio distance from McLood's Lake to the Par
nip IS about 18 miles.
From the mouth of the Missinchiuca liivcr to the Nation Elver, a distance .
41 miles, the ground on the east side of the Parsnip l?iver is well suited for railwnv
constructiorf, consisting principally of extensive flats along the base of the foothiii:
to within four miles of the Nation River,
In this portion at seven places, banks from .^0 to 100 feet high approach tii-
river, causing about three miles of heavy work. ^ 1"^^"lu m,
At four miles above the Nation River there is a good crossing with rock bank-
Ihe water IS, however, deep and rapid. The length of the bridge would bo 300 foe
l-rom this point to a flat half a mile fr -m the Nation, the banks are goneralh
dose to the river and are from UO to 100 feet lugh, with terraces above. On ascendir,-
the east bank of the Parsnip we had a good view up the valley of the Nation Thi
mountains appeared to be about 10 miles distant, and the lower part of the valk.
was composed of terraces 50 to 200 foet high. On the east side of the Parsnip tl
mountains are about 8 miles distant. ."onip in,
F.'om the Nation to Finlay River 39 miles, there are extensive flats on eachsid;
of the Parsnip, alternating with bold banks of clay and gravel, with rock occasional!,
near the water. The banks rise to a height of from 100 to 200 feet, and in a f
places are not stable. The Finlay River is about 300 feet wide, and at the foik-
where the river becomes the Peace River, it is about .500 feet wide, deep and swif
Ihe Peace River passes through the main chain of the Rocky Mountans betwee'
J inlay River and Clear Water River, in a distance of about 25 miles. Thern.
Si*!., TZn'^ri «''9^^i«"«' !^l"ff"\of clay and gravel for nine miles to Wicko
Rlve.^ Thence to Clear Water River the mountains approach close to the river bii
even here there are narrow flats and benches alternating with bluffs of clay .M-'ave
t^ins'^h^-e: t'ofoui-ti;!::" '^ '"" ''' ^" ''' ^«^^' ''"'• ^™- ^"P ^" ^OP '>^the mou,
'^^\^,^^TS,^7' '" P"««i"g through this gorge, is magnificent.
Wicked River and Clear Water River would require a water-way of 100 feet cae
fhero are also some smaller streams from 20 to 40 feet wide
1" the next 41 miles to the Rocky Mountain Po-Uge the mountains recede h;v
the nver. The lulls on the north side are covered with grass, and are wooded on tL
There are extensive flats and benches on this portion of Peace River, particul'u'
towards the Portage, and in the neighborhood of 'the Otter Tail River 'S
Creek, and other lateral streams There are also some bold bluffs* of da; and "ra ■
sl.du.g in a few places, and sma 1 exposures of rock close to the waterf mostPy n.
Clear Water River. At the rapid "(Mi ne parle pas," the r,ver is about 400 R
^^■4;otatriX^''" ''''' '''' ^^^- -reams would requiJi Sit
ROCKV MOUNTAIN PORTAOE AND CANYONS.
To cany the lino down through the canyons of Peace River would be a ve1
mfficu t and costly undertaking. The distance is about 20 miles, and the banks %
J'Z"'^\l:!^n^''K"^'^^''''V'^ ^''1^ ^««P vallevs interveniS
m ma..y places the rocks are perpeadicular standing from 40 to"250 feet above theriv,
volvin
Inyoiis
Acr
|lly for
Bt. It
►o step
|ound 1
Ink of
ope is
BoU
it very
inks an
;hor Hi(
:ist, pa
06ntract(
llideuiii^
^ three;
v| Seve
the so
t, D'E
to50i
it, and
Thei
it may
Bot\A
ltivuto(
suitabl
Auro
BetM
pastui
Frou
isideiu
Id of Mil
id St. Jc
lOrtod t
. „ The t
i^vcr is e
Mality to
toe wood :
I
f On th
^r by la
flfive Lak
,< Ilavin
%i to Sla
yough a
B|n vegan,
to. liiieRr
1 met
15th A
Comm
line ab
There
ik abom
I yon ubo
123-
•♦'
68
f=
8 120 feet high and CO,, |^„l,.i„ mnnoj and hov
required will be ahoi, ^ ^. . i
^ivor there would not 1.
■, from 10 to 30 feet, an
ver, the banks are Htee|
ore the line could oiiHih
;Lood'rt Lake to the Par
ion Iliver, a distance >
H well Huited forrailwiir
the base ot the foothill-
feot high approach th.
.yonsi. about 200 feor, : I'S!:;; i^d S "''"' "' ^''" ''''"' ^" ^^'^ "^ '^^
[ii,t;:Zr"iS:::Sn:: ltt:^:::^Zm:ii:f,f^^'>! ^'-^-r' - ■•^^^^^ -^
\t. Itthenfall/evenly^ioiii totho^^^^^^^^^ ' p '' ^'l^^'' "*' "^-out 700
Htep. or bendioB TOo'feet lre\Vt'hV';^ e ""oftt^H^S^^ t^r^" "
ound between Portage Mountain and Bull Head Mount.Ln r?,.,i • ^'"'^l''
^of U. nver and in the upper terrace. ^ v^d^t?kiSt vS^'IT HiISj?:
§nks and the deep lateralTalir.TZLht^^ ioughne.s« and height of the
,hor .side of the river, the.^ a^al Ja ?.St nX r"'"'\"""' ^"^s and benches on
ist, particularly in the lowei pan towSdf d" nS,.' , u-V^l "^ '".'^ ",'" •""^•«"'^««
o.ing With rock ban. ^iSl^t liSSX^i^^!^'-'"^;' ^^"'^•'•- ^S^^c^SoS?
'sZ7t On SZi; • I u^= 'E^ni^e^S; ifr ^", 'r ^''?,^^^^- «-- ^'-^ -^^ side ;
ley of the Nation. Th, Et Ve, 1 turn/ R^^^^^^ ax/^?^ "^"I"' ^'"'^ ^^'^*^''' ^00 teot, Mud River 400
loier part of the valk, f to 50 fe ' wil On the noi th'sid^MMT l' ^J-'°'" T. 'r'' "'■^" ^'"■^ ^'~ from
: «ide of the Parsnip tl. |^t, and ^0^"^^^^^^::^^^'^%^^:^ '^^^' ''"'^ ^'^'"'' ^^<^''^'^ '''
itS^i>!rsrpa!;;;r:"^''^ ^'^^^"'^ ^^''^^'^ ^'^ «s"-i^-«. ^•^-^i* -me
I Auros.s the Portage the soil is sandy and gravelly
dS bin .^^°,^'"^"-'°-''°"T>«ve,y abundant in the neighbourhood of iJm.veL'an
wi:,l ih J '■^'''^''''^'''1"''^''"^ l^^'"' '"^^ mi melius. A few butfalo am
doited to have been seen in the Spring near Mud River ^
ihe timber on the flats and side hills of Pack River tho P-,.- „,■.> n„ i r.
« wood IS principally second growth poplar, c'ottonwood and ipruco" ''^'"' ^^'''^
tensive flats on each sid;
1, with rock occasional!;
to 200 feet, and in a fe»
t wide, and at the foii.
3t wide, deep and swil:
icky Mountains betwee
t 25 miles. Thei
)r nine miles to W
h close to tho river, be
th bluft's of clay, gravt
5.S, causing heavy wor.
top to top of the mout
It.
er-way of 100 feet oatl|
mountains recede fror
and are W(yoded on tl:
oace River, particular!!*!
rail. River, Eight-Milil
utt's of clay and gravt
the water, mostly ncai
river is about 400 fcf'
would require brid;'e>
8.
ver would be a ven
es, and the banks .x
a valleys intervening
250 feet above tho riviS
PINK RI7ER TOWARDS SLAVE LAKE
S'S7l!i^i''^%T'''"^^'?'"°''/^'^°''' Mr. Cambie continued the exnlora-
to blave Lake, and I proceeded to Pine River makin r « n;,.f.,,;f f." .i ' \T.
I met Dr. Dawson, who had come over the Pine Pass with the pack trains on
15th August, at a point west of Muskrat River ^ '
lPnraEt''.)lir.^'J°^^l?'^'*'^^'"«^>^''''''*^i'l be necessary to deflect
line about 9 miles to the north to avoid high ground lying to tho e'l^t
^ JJZ.'7oe ?/:fr|f£|^%n "^ '»^«^^^— .i|e'be£w tt ^X with a
yon above the' Porks" " ^" " west side, extending up to noar the
123-6
C4
The bank on the oant side is about (3U feot h'l^A, in iVont of high ground, fi'omSOO
to OOO feot above the I'ivor.
Tho briiii^o Hhoiilcl hiivo 500 foot of waterway and be about 70 foot above tho
river, tbo Ijoitoin of wLiili is rocU.
For 8 miles aloiii,' tlio east h:inl< the wori< will be lieavy with a grade of 1 per
100. Tho ^lo]H of liie liunlc are nn dilKeult except in a few places. Sandstone
rock crops out at a tioight of from 100 to 500 feet, and the slope above is grassy or
wooded. Tliore arc no lart^o streams or doej) coolo's in this distance.
The line will then cnlci the valley of Pavel's Creek and continue in it to its
source, 11 distut'.ce of about 7 miles; hero there is a stream flowing nortli-oasterly tn
Peace Kivor. This ^innlmit is about 700 feet above tho crossing of Fine River. The
valley of Favel's Creek is about a mile wide, getting narrower towards Pine Kivor,
The bottom is wide and Hat, but narrow with high banks as it nears tho river. The
ground l' south and norih is much higher, extending for a considerable distance in
each direction.
Bet
one
ver. [
The
) feet i
ipniael
On 1
111 Smo
to tlio '
;ir the
Wor
e 1 and
u iilo a
#iiii bolij
iilli
t
Between this sumnut and Mud River, about 19 miles, the lino is carried still fur- ^'"^m1!'"
• northward, passing' round tho foot of a rancre of hills. The country is nearly J ,
ther
level to
within
passi
5 mil
ige
s of Mud River, and the work will bo light.
Mud River on the west is easy. Tho crossing of Buffalo Creek w
y IS nearly
The approach to
-- 10(1 u ire a bridge
about 50 foot. With tho exception of a stream 20 feot wide, the rest aro small.
The crossing of Mud River will require a bridge of 400 feot, (30 foot above the
river.
To overcome the summit east of Mud River, which is about 840 feet above the
crossirg, koepintr the grade down to 1 per 100, it is necessary to lengthen the lino to
6 miles, by placiii;;' the crossing some distance up Mud River ; this part of the work
■will lie heavy in ]iiacos.
Froi\ this suiMii it tho lino follows down tho valley of Dawson's River to the
D'Hcij.'UPid, and diAvii that river to the crossing, a distance of about IG miles, do-
sc.>t.'Uii,. about 700 trei. The valley of Dawson's River is wide, with even slopes
and hiii- on eachsidr. The work will bo light. D'Echafand River has banks 250 fool
high, v<.ry sleep in jiiaees, and work will bo hoav}' in approaching the crossing, pro
babl}; ior 3 tnilos. li will require a bridge 300 feot long, and about CO feet above
tho river.
Jl abiiiil I
V III til
J'O to 50(
e-fiiurtl
gener;
'\ Whoi
#i)mctimoj
' The I
<[ On ci
h'oiigh a
ados wo
av\- for
The r
iei! retur
luntry Ij
bboily's
As th(
s Mr. Ti
Jmonton
part of the valley of this lateral stream has high banks, sliding in l^'"^^'"''^.^
places, with some deep coolo's entering from the south. Tho work in the D'Kchafaud sf ^^'f^^^^
valley, and for some miles up the stream, will he heavy. Tho ground is even for j§"Vi "■
the roinaiiiiiig distance. <I^'Kled, to
The country lying to the east of this watershed is even and undulating, the only ml ^''y ^^"
difficulty being tho crosn'iig of sir •iiiw, M)inoof ihem with dee]) valleys. T^^'f ^'^^^l
About () miles from ,iio summit there is a stream, with a valley GO feet doop aiid"^' "^ ^''
narrow, requiring an ojiening of .-^0 feet. Tho lino is jdaced to the'south of a branch
of the same stream, from the west, running parallel to it. The dehceiit to tliis point
is about 2G0 foot.
A branch of Muskrai River is crossed in about G miles in a small valley with :i
bridge of 80 feet. The lino will then keep to the south of this branch to j^ocuro
favourable crossing of Mii-<krat River, distant about 5 miles. Whore tho tinil crossc
this river, below the Foi'k., tho valley i;^ IJIL) foot deep and on.vthird of a mile win
at to|). Tho lino crossing will probably bo narrow, and about 100 feet deep, with
bridge of bO feel openin<^. The de-;cent in tho hwt 1 1 miles is about 'ZdO feet.
Between JMiiskrat River and (ihost River, about 7 miles, tho irround is iieailvi
From the crossing the line will keep on the east side of the river for a distance •
of 3 miles to a lateral stream, which it will follow to tho next summit, 22 miles. The i
ascent in this distance is about GOO feet,
The lower
lovoi, iiie line jiussos rouirl to the norlh of some hiv,h
then i'Mllo, ■-! a more southerly couivo to H
-I.IIO ■,■ ;" '7 o''i!io > R'vi'i- i ; snnll ; i
feet hii^h.
ni'Hcv
River.
'0 1 wl'-'
■.'ouud risiii!' io the soutii.
>f '■v.'i f-o'. f.l
)i>iir
66
' high ground, from 500
aut 70 foet above tho
fith a griulc of 1 por
'ow pluoos. Stuulstone
po iibovo i.s gruH.sy or
istanco.
coiitinuo in it to its
ving noilh-onstorly tn
i; of I'ino River. Tiic
• towiirdrt Pino Jiivor.
noar.s tlio rivor. Tlie
nsidorablo distance in
ino its carried still fur-
iio country is nearly
gilt. The approach to
; will ro<[uiro a bridge
10 rest are .small,
3t, (30 feet above the
it 340 feet above the
to lengthen tho line to
this part of tho work
iwson's River to the
of about IG miles, de-
le, with even slopes
'or has banks :i50 leel
ing the crossing, pro-
about CO foot above
e river for a distance
ammit, 22 miles. The
ligh banlcH, sliding in
rk in the D'Kchataud
) ground is even for
I undulating, the only
) valleys.
illoy GO feet (loop and
tho .south of a branch
f descent to this point
small valley with a
s branch to secure a,
^h(>re the trail cros>o-i
lliird of a mile wi h'
DO i'eet deep, with ;n
)()iit 2(;0 fool.
lie g;'Ou:id is neaiiV]
ing io the soiUli, a i^,
"f .^!' f"C'. !i')i>i!' "fi
Between Ghost River nrwl T^i.mIA r;„ i . .
one and ono^hi/d nTil V t^'rVb rt'th"'^ ":''"^"'", '^""'^"^^ '•'-" ^0 foot
iver. The country is .ontly- „,.dulali.!,T ^ ^''" """" '"^•^'' ^ *''« '^'»"l<« of the
Ijpr^u.h on the west (^-iil U, |.,avy f'r a£; T^^ jV" '"^''^ ^"" ''' '•^"'"''-'- '^''«
On JeuviMi'- Brule iJivcr (lif» linn ,..;ii "•■■«.
.1 ^^n,oky Ri^or, the giou;;. ' W " T: ^^H ■:':^:^r-'''^ '"'T''^ Peace River
ito. cvalley of KatuotCreok a^uiZt li"oX:irU T^^^^ U .hen desccn.is
.ar li.e propo,sod cros>i„^r, j,. all about 2'] ml, s ' ' ""'"' '"^^^ «'""'<> iiivor,
Work will lid 111.. ■!»'.• r,... ., .„:i.. . .. .'. '
■or, then light over (ho water-
orablo distance. This valloy
row
the
{Work will bo heavy ll.r a mile oast ofj},-,
ic'l and down tho valloy of Katoot (Veok Ibr •,
wide and even until it aniiioaclus Wicki.d (»i, •. . "■ *•■■=•'"""¥
ith bold lands and occasi. , al Ian si ,| pi ' "''i '^. '"«'>'>"3s deep and nurrow
|n,e dilHcult cbara,.ter to ils'ili^H^'rl^Uh iu^Uy^li: '' ''''^' ^^'-'^ "'- ^^' "-
J aUnU ;!;o S • r^; ;!^e:"^'-^'-^' ^"^-^ ""-'-^ •- --o .ovol of Smoky River
iito'5i;rs3is;::iT;;;;iL^:i!^',!^
4 cfliurth to one-half a mile wi.ie on ei I e s i , ^ . ':;;r'''^ un ,„torval or flat from
do generally good and stable, with led ' es of t , '"• :^''" '"''"l'^'' '*^ '''" '^''"'^'*
•> Where there aro sharp boi ds ,T .1 , '•""*^^""° 'M'Pearing ocasionally.
iOmetimos land slides from no tV, lOoSt hi .li ™"' ''^1^1" ""'•'"^-^ ^'"^ ''^'"K there aro
i S:;S:Vulo'rS,;: J;S;S/rf ';i^>. with a watc-way of T50 feet.
^•ough u long'?each to the I ^ J ,' uT £ ,;;'? f .'r.''' '^T'^ ''" '''" -"*^^
Jades west and cast of tho river wil cleed ] o, n ',1 ^''^'^T '' -'""^^''- ^he
Savy for at least three miles on each side o! tl.rir dS""' ''" ""''^ ^^'" '^'^ ^'-'^
I I ho remainder of tho route to ,S1.H7<. T.,i.„ ^ . .
t|cn. returned to British Coh mb a S the in' T """'"T"^ ^^ f'' ^^'"'^'<^' ''^<>
^.ntry lying to the north of to Peace Rive to I M ^^M-^""^ ''« ^•^''minod tho
Ifoborly's Lake to Pine River. ° ■^^"''''"' - ^^"1'^'- ^''^"^^ ^^^^o„s by
'^ As tho season was now well advnnm.i) rr.iu ci„ ^ , s
m ir--. Tapper to tho wosi of I'o Ith^^^at . w.?' °'"''"'^' ""^' ^''^ P-'^-^I'^^'tof meot-
:f monton oi tho 2nd of August We k'S n""^' '""^.•'''•[''i". l'« »^"'"K -till at
^tward should be divided between DrKwL ad !:':>?/ t ^'" -^l^'-"^-"
examination oid Slave Lake to L-io T-. r;^i ^i r J^'- J^'^w.son undertook
•m tho upper crossing of Smokv RK-e>- . ?? ""^^^ eoniinued .south-easterly
^idcd, towards Dirt Lake ^ ' ^'"'l^"'"'"^'' "* which wo had previously
\-U. of Slave Lak?. We met at LdmoJti,:!;:; tJfe 2o;h ^oSobr"" "" "'""''^
PI.NE UIVER TOWABIlS DIUT LAKE.
'orks lor a distance of about .")0
Slave Lake, except that it will
r om ho cro sing of P.ue Rivor near the Lower
■, his lino mil bo common to the one leadi,,.. to
!' the south side of Dawson's Jjjver.
IL will then follow u|> the south bank ortlioon-t ,.,. • i
^l toiho watorsl.e.1 between it u^ Sm kv P^^J '"l".^ ^^'T^'' "* ^^''^^'I'^^Hiud
The ground is about 400 f^et I nve^^.-^.;^'' '':;''' ^ •
'<""!C^7- '"•' 'i'« r ■^"- '- ' "i- * ^" '» -; i;''"^ '■' '" '""'
jough
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
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IL25 i 1.4
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Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) 872-4503
iV
^v
■^^
^
<^
^
^>
«•
a
w.llfol owUsnortK bank to its j^.nction with Elk Piv.Xh'^"^ crossing it the iinej
to Smoky E.vor, in ail about 57 ;nile. ^ ' '^''"'^ '^''■•'»™ ** will foUowj
about two miles as above. ' ^- "^'^^ ^"'"^^ ^lil be light, except fori
Be^'^^i: Srsl^'aSti^jr-^"^^ ^ ^'^?^ -■- ^« '^^ crossing of
The descent to the div de betweln thTs^ 'h n "^n"'"^ '^^ "''«»* ^0 feet. ^ 1
''^7^^-^!^o Sn!:^^^;;^ X:!,^£- '« about m r.., and the
Bear lSo^J^;;:'' "^"'" '"^ '^^''"'"^ ^^ «» ^-t- -^ another stream flowing into
SS^'^-^-O^-i--^ River, Where tho
oa.y, as the couniry is'even and 'u^nduT^^,?" The L"^"'.)'" '"'<?' ''"^ "^^^ ^'» ^^l
laving ascended to the plateau level wif'fbllow^hl,- ''"'' ^imonette River, and i
distance, then tho valley of a tribu a -v stroai^ +„^''-! ''""^'^ ^^^''^^ ^r a conside;ablei
Lmie Smoky River. There are ati'^^^'Si)!^ ^tSh' ^'*J'^ ^'^'^^ "i'^^^f
Simonette Rivci-, and it will be neeessa, v tn i *u -^ through the north bank of
valley till they are crossed. The E^VsimoTet « p-'"' "'"'' '^' bottom of the
feet apart, and tho work will be heavvHn lln.T^^f fu^"'®'" ''*''^ ^00 feet high 2 000 1
bridge will be 50. feet water way an'd siS hiJh ' V !'^^' '« '''''^^^' Th
Between Little Smoky Rive ^indth« a ffu ^^* ''P^"'"^ and 30 feet hiffh '
e^nending in a north-eas eVdIrecf bn an^n. '^f'.*'''^';!' '^ ^ ^^^^ ridge ?f hills 1
favorable passin tho neighb^orh^d orour'.liT '^^rva r/'^tf'*^^"- '^''^ S
ih.TfT' '!0^?:er, two other valleys more to th^ nJtl^ olU^vsh Head River. '
that of Smoky River, the stream flowinT/wh th« ? ' '"' ^''V'' '^^^n Little I
Goose R,ver, where favorable lines may be founf to fhe a3"" ^'^'' ''"'* «'«« ^^
Ihcse hills rise to a heiL'ht of nhm.t 7n,»T . u ■r'^''"aba8ca.
feet above the Athabasca ^ ^''"^ ^^" ^"°* "''"^^ kittle Smoky River, and 600 1
iinetotrel'u;hri7„riLf;tre''ttd''">r ''•."'" ''^ -cessarytodeflecUhJ
^ith the Athabasca, fa'ling about 400 feet n 2n m'l m.'^ ^"'*''* *« its junction
River is broad, and the slopes i-ood th« hnff^ « ^ '®^J ^'^^^ ^a"ey of Marsh Head
67
"Cv
) the north and soutli i
ys.
is more evon, and the
IS about 470 foot,
of Beaver Lodge River
nd crossing it the lino
ch stream it will follow
3xcept the lower part ofi
I'lll be light, except for'
les to the crossing of!
f about 50 feet. I
about 270 feet, and the
3r 8(ream flowing intoB^^'
Elk Rivoi-, where tho
banl« lieie are fi-om
top to top. In many
md slides fVom GO toi
river.
thofSimonotteRiver
nd-siides.
t of the work will be
sSimonotteRivor, and
rse for a considerable
nthm eight miles of
Jgh the north bank of
ar the bottom of tho
400 feet high, 2,000
3vel 18 reached. The
stance from Smoky
i, and the ascent in
ver, falling about 1301
luartertoahalfmilej
des and some rock;
od 30 foet high,
high ridge of hills,
habasca. The mosti
f Marsh Head River. '
lower down Little,'
n Luke, and also of
ca.
lokj River, and 600 1
'ssary to deflect the
JO feet above Little
>iver to its junction
ley of Marsh Head
The work on this
lleys.
three to four miles
H islands, flats, and
ig will be near the ,_
b opening 30 feet M
Between the Athabascaand McLood Rivers, tho country is very hilly and broken
f mmodiately to the east of the Athabasca tho hills are 900 foot above tho river*
icroasing in height to the t^outh, and also towards tho McLeod. One of tho ridges
lassod over on the trail is 1400 foot above the Athabasca. The intervening valleys
ire from 300 to 600 foot deep. Towards the north the hills gradually docroase 'in
leight, and torminato near the Athabasca.
To overcome those difficulties it will bo necossaiy to follow a circuitous course
orthward, passing round the shoulders of the hills, and up tho valleys. Tho
imiidutions will be about 300 foot and tho grades nearly 1 por 100 throu-'liout the
greater i)art of the distance, 58 miles. The work will generally bo heavy, particu-
larly at the crossing of a large rapid stream, flowing into tho McLooJ, which will
•equire a bridge 100 feot long and 100 foot high. Three other streams will require
iridgos from 30 to 100 feet each.
A practicable line may also be found bv following down tho Valley of the
.thabaska, to near the confluence of tho McLeod, then up tho latter rivor to the
•ossing. This course will suit tho lines via Goose River, or Eoswagun Lako above
lontioncd.
Where the line crosses the McLeod, the ground is about 200 feot higher than at
10 Athabasca crossing, A bridge 30;) foot long and 40 foet high will bo required,
he valley is wide and oven, and the banks of the rivor 100 foot high, with occasional
low flats. Sandstone rock appears in many placos.
k u'^f j""'^®** west of the McLeod we reached Mr. Tapper's trail, and ascertained
;hat he had returned to Edmonton, in consequence of the difficulty of cutting through
jth') windfalls, and being short of provisions.
The trail w. > made for some milos further west, and some of the pai-ty had gone
n foot to the Athabasca, and had left a memorandum at the river, which Dr. Dawson
found, on his journey down.
The line, on leaving the McLeod, will ascon 1 to the watershed of the Lobstick,
7 miles with a rise of 300 feot, following tho valley of a email stream. On about a
milo of this, near the McLeod, the work will bo heavy and the rest light.
It will then descend by the north-west branch of the Lobstick to Dirt Lake
reaching It in )5 miles, and falling about 300 feet. The valley of this stream is
broad and swamp3% extending a considerable distance to tho south. To the north
the country IS high and hilly, apparently for a long distance. Work will generally
fee light to Dirt Lake, except the crossing of three streams requiring bridges of 30
From the head of Dirt Lako to the located lino, the railway will follow the
north b^ore. and cross tho Lobstick near the lower end of tho lake, thence alon<r the
fiouth side of the Lobstick; in all about 20 miles. The fall in this distance will not
exceed 50 feet.
The north-western shore of Dirt Lake is bold and broken, rising to high hills
tor two-thirds of the length of the lake, cau^ng heavy work. Por the remaining
distance, the ground Is even, but marshy, and the woi k will be light.
lie Lobstick will require a bridge 100 watei--way and 30 foet high.
. . .A he total distance from Pine River to the located lino, as above, is 347 miles,
J'"°'"g tne located line near the 1,272nd mile, or station 268 of Lucas' Survey.
All distances given in this report are estimated in most cases by the various
rates of travel, checked occasionally by observations lor latitude ; but as the country
waversediBvory rough, and filled with windfalls and brules, particularly from Pine
Jtiver to the Lobst.ck, they should be considered as only approximately correct.
Iho rise and fall are taken from constant readings of a small aneroid, which
tnethod can only be relied on for comparative heights, taken at short intervals of
SOIL, TIMBER, &0.
:Paa '^^^}^^^ "<*?* suitable for agriculture is found in the plateaux of the valley of
s-eace Kiver and its ifibuUuios. These plateaux oxioud ii-oiu 4 to isO miips on eaeh
68
botwoon tho tributaries ^ ^ ^ '""''°" '=«"""y ionning the- wuter«hej^
)t8 apex near Hudson's Hope A verv onniinl. u .' " l^^«^»Pe of an A, with
with the ranges of hills abo^v-e ^k^^of '''' ''^'^'"" ^^ '^''' ''''^''' ^^^^^ 4
The plateaux stands from 800 tn 1 nnn «,«(. u r. -r, I
heights ab,n-e the tributary reZacco.Tn/fotr"'H-!^^^^ '^"^ «* M
The soil is ve.y rich, resting o Tsub^o f J^ut t th' """'r ^'■"'" ""^ """'" '''^^'l
cold, caused probably by recent heavy n.hm ' '"'■^""'' appeared wet anl
TlVwS?w*,t"f /' ^""^™"^ ^^S^"^' '^"^1 i" ^o^io parts sandy
The rest of fhe tx^unt"^ is covTrid Xu ' 'T'"^ with grass, pea vine, &al
high E.-o„„,l light, .ometiral «LT™i b in wlT '^ ""','""' "'""''^- 0° 'H
A scant of coal 8 inches thi, l7wo ^ 7 ns section of the conntry. 1
Small blocks were fiundn the gn'eTol oXr "Z:""' ^"'.r' ''''' '' ^'''^ ^'^-^
other. gi<i\oiot othei streams, widly separated from e:ufc
CLIMATE.
So little has been done in the Peace Riv -mti.,, ;„ fu ^ . I
is not easy to form a correct opinion as to K ^^ T**^' ''^^'™'° '"^'^'^S' '
Wheat has been grown suc^ fui,v ' . i ^'^'°tt'" "'",*^ '^'^'''''^■
Lake. Barley, oats, and roots mavbl^ poVm" ^^''''^' ■l>i"vegan, and SlavJ
garden vegetables thrive well ^ con«"lore.l a sure ci-op, and the ordinar^^
frost four miles west of S[LRi,^,',L''Vb'^,'^,Sf" th« ^l«t there werel4%l
During the day, the sun was ho aid owerfu We wi!" • 'r '""'5 f ^^"^'^ ^'^"=1
occasionally in June, but verv seldom ^TnJulv in fhr<r*^^T d"'^- *''''* ^^'^'''^ o*^™!
of high ground and to tne south of Peiofc !l ^^''""^ Prairie," lying Poutbi^
frequent. A comparison of tJe foliage in the eaWv n^ '/T''. '^''t ''^'^ '« ^^ 'H
confirm this. ^ ' "® *''**'^ P"'^^ of September, appeared to
«i
69
VIA saskatchbwanJ
The proposed line will leave the present locution near the 1 -^Coth mile at the,
rater-shed between the Pembina and Sturgeon Kiver. It wi:l then dos.'cMd the
balleyofthe latter river, keeping along the north shores of Jtoiind Lake, Lac des
rfllesandLac Ste. Ann. The lino will probably cross the Slu.-eon three tim.), to
kvoid long bends in the river to the north .aid south, the east crossing U-uMi bolow
Big Lake, near St Alberts. " ^
From this place it will pass over a low divide to the Saskatchewan, crossing
the river, i^ort Saskatchewan, about 20 miles below Fort Edmonton. Thence round
the north shoulder of the Beaver Hills to the chain of lakes and Vermilion Jt.ver
the valovofwhichit wi follow till the stream takes a northerly direction. The
^iie will then leave this valley, and pasning round the north side of the Four JMackibot
mils. It will again pin the surveyed line near the 1,030th mile in the Willow Jlilis
The length of tins deviation will be about 230 miles, and will probably be a few
ailes shorter than the line of 1875. j -^^ ' '^^
b* T*"® "P,!^f l""''^ ^'' ^^'"'.'''"on «'^'«i- Galley is wide and oven to the outlet of Lac
Pte. Ann. Ihe bottom is marshy and the hills rise with oven slopes on each side
At a few bold points on the north shore of Lac dos Isles, and on the stream
between this lake and Lac Sto. Ann, the work will bo moderately heavy and iho re-
^nainder light. The descent in this distance is small.
From Lac Ste. Ann to the first crossing of the Sturgeon, the valley is narrow
nth high ground to the north. Tho descent h.^re is more rapid and the work will be
Qoderately heavy. The banks at the crossing are about 30 feet hijrh
Between tho first and third crossings, the valley is wider and even, and the work
be light, passing oyer undulating j.huns rising to the south up to tho second
fcrosding, and to the noilh between the second and third. Tho descent in the river in
fhis distance is small. The banks at the lower crossing /are about 70 feet hx'h and
. quarter of a mile apart. Bridges 100 feet each will bo required at the crossings.
rork d? u*^"]- k ^'^ Saskatchewan the ground is even and undulating, and the
The proposed crossing is to an island formed by a slough about 100 feet wide
The banks stand from 20 to 30 feet above the water on each side and are tiim and
permanent. On tho west side there is a flat about two miles long and half a mile
nde, rising by an ever ^lope to the plateau level, about 150 feet above the river. On
Ihe east side, on leaving the island the flat is narrow, and tho ground rises to 70 feet
fcbove the river, and continues to ascoiid slowly to tho Beavor Hills, which are here
^Dout five miles distant. A bridge with a water-way of bOO feet, will be required
cross the main channel, and another of 100 feet across the slough. The approaches
bn each side will be moderately heavy for about a mile.
I On leaving the Saskatchewan the line will follow a north-easterly course for about
[k.°l .?-^^. ^''^ T'^^ ®"*^ °^ ^'''^ ^<=^^°'" H'"»- '-The ascent in the first 10 miles is
L^i"u ?• ,• ^^^^ ^^^^^y '*^^^'- '^^^ ground is even and undulating, and the work
Till be light.
- ^.'■,?'" ^k? ®"^ ^^ ^^^ Beaver Hills the direction is more easterly to the valley of
f'ermilion River, about 30 miles. ^
A stream 30 feet wide is crossed in about 10 milos, running north to the Saskat-
pnewan. Ihe valley is a quarter of a mile wide, and dOfoet deep. The water-shed
I Ver-nilion Eivor is two miles east of this stream.
The descent of the Vermilion P.iver is small, and the intervening country is un-
Buiating, with occasional hills to r,orth and south. The work will be light.
I Ihe line will follow tho valley of Vermilion Eiver southerly for about 40 miles
Keeping on the north side, along the shores of the chain of lakes. The valley is about
pne mile wide at bottom, two at top, and from 100 to 150 feet deep ; tho slopes are
pven, and there are few places where heavy work wiH be required. The fall of the
ptream is small throughout this distance.
J To the south the country rise^ in small hills and ridges to a height of 300 to 400
leet above the river. The Vermilion will require a bridge with an opening of 100
|oec. Ihere are no largo streams flowing in trom the north.
70
8urvc%Tne'"offs75'''''lV^'° ^'T '"'^^ ^""?^^ ''' ^-O'T direct oastcHy course to the
Blackf.0 HilU nnV Vi'/""'T' M^.^ ^"■"""'* "■*-^°^^'' the south towards the PoJ
S„ri r k'^ r ""^' "'"' ''""'"^'' w"h undulations from 40 to IffOfee t3
lino MWi'Ei'nni ''•"'''■''"•; '^'■"T- *''" Sa»katch6»a„ River and the .«rv«yj
SOIL, TIMBER, ETC.
The country is wooded to a point a few miles east of La Ste Ann • th«n «^.
prairies, alternating with copses of woods to nZ- Pr,„ t ,.l ^° *^P*
Willow Hills, prairfe land pre'dominate'tS wUdT; ge^f^allV s^krS' *'*'"'' "^ *H
of good quality ' ^*'°'^° " '*''"^ ^"® '"'•g« «P'-»«« and cottonwoJ
weat£S^J'i,SS^^„^^J--'>-> ^-^"^ -P-^-'i ve^ 4
I have the honor to be, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
HENRY A. F. MaoLEOD,
Sanpford Fleming, Esq. , C.M.G.,. ^' ^'^*' ^' ^'
Engineer-in-Chief.
BEP(
SANDF
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71
APPENDIX No. 4.
the country is oven anq
experienced very coll
EEPOKT ON THE TRIAL LOCATIOX SURVEY, PROM HEAD OP WORK INLET UP THE
8KEENA RIVER, BY MR. (iEOROE A. KEEPER.
New Westminster, B. C,
January 23r(i, 1880.
Sandpord Fleming, Esq.
Engineer-in-Cliief.
C.W.G.
Dear Sir,— In accordance with the substance of your instructions, my work for
*ho past season has been confined to a trial location from the head of the Wark
Inlet through the "divide" to the Skoena River, and thence as far eastward,
[following the north or right bank of the river, as the season would admit; also
eabricing an examination of the shores of Wark Inlet with a view to the ultimate
extension of the lino to Port Simpson, and a general opinion as to the adaptability of
Ithat point as a terminal harbor for the Canadian Pacific Railway.
L Tf " ^^^ ^"^ ^^ ■^""" '"'**• '" company with Messrs. Gamble and McLeod, I left
Ifor Victoria on the Hudson Bay Go's, steamer " Princess Louise," landing my party
land supplies at Port Essington on the 5th.
I Port Essington or Spucksute is a small Indian village or trading post at the
Imouth of the Skoena, and about nine milos below the southern or Skeena entrance to
Hhe. divide, leading to Wark Inlet.
On the following day,— Mr. Gamble having secured the steamer for that purpose —
Ian examination of Port Simpson and Wark Inlet was made, and returning to Port
lEssmgton, I joined ray party the same evening.
I As Mr. Gamble has in his report given a lull and exhaustive description of the
Ipoints embraced in that part of your instructions relating to Port Simpson and Wark
linlet, it will be unnecoi'sary for mo togive it more than a brief notice, confining
Imyself more particularly to the portion covered by my trial location.
I As all nautical authorities have agreed upon the advantages of Port Simpson
lover any existing harbors on the northern coast, there only remains the question of
I Its capacity and the facilities of its land approaches, to determine whether it may be
Iconsidored as a tit terminal point for an important railway, and if filling the require-
Iments consequent upon such an important selection.
j The area of the harbor is sufficient for the purpose, possessing an anchorage of
over four square miles. It is sheltered to the north and west by the shores and out-
I lying islands, but is exposed in part to the S. W. wind ; the sea, however, is broken by
H ^®®' ^y f ^IP ^^'^ forming a natural breakwater, but which does not prevent the full
jlorce of the wind being felt from that direction, and would possibly prove awkward
I lor vessels exposed to its full force, but there is still a comparatively large area of
jsheltered anchorage left. .'a
I The shores are low, sloping back gradually, easy of approach and suitable for
l^xtensive wharfage, and possessing a building area of sufficient extent to meet any
I requirements of the future. ° => j
... '^^.^ entrance to Wark Inlet from the Portland Channel, some eight miles wide at
U„?uPT'' '^„''^sy of approach, but not exceeding 2,000 feet in width, with deep water
to the base of the bluffs forming the shores on either side.
L tk *'!f e'f tension of the line from my initial point at the head of Wark Inl6t
inorttiward to Port Simpson, some 32 miles, the work may bo classed as ver^' hsaV^
land some six miles excessively so. The outline of the' shore, although generally
III
ii
['
iijfjWww'HI'"^'/!' "■',■ .*, -,
T2
a half and two to ono AifK km' • ^ ^^'° ^»''y"'g ^^m slopos one, one uij
mSSn or boaravuilifbo fo^^ "^h 'T ^^^ ^"'j' "omo 1^ feet, there is nl
expennivo matciaf a " 1 S' I.TfU h T ' r^ '"f""^ and through very
initsconHtruction %'depreSthothwL^.) t^^ T*" '"^'"^.^ be encounteroJ
even'^i^'Telnpot;"!!' it"t«" ''^""T" f^ '" '""^ way suitable a/a terminuni
assumed at rrthoLexitH oSv rZ ^^f'^^^^^^T'- The area of anchorage!
having only a fronSoSoT^J^lo in 1 <T' T*^' "".^^' ''^^"'"^^ ''™'^«'^ «^t««'l
from the Jn,J T I'k /. • V . '" '""S*^^ ^"^ » ^'^1^^ not exceeding 500 foetl
Inlet. There i, iifumm^t of «„,^; s«nV , t 'f"""' '•"r'"'-' ""■•"" "' "'" >'»^ "f M
raoM .tmm th. '. ?;■ '/'"e nbont oqiiiji.mnt from Imlh water,. A hr.e and
us to adhere trthe siXh U whi^.h i! "'^' '^ '1"*^""""^ ^''"^^ of 1 per 100 oblige,
emerge on the vallov of tL'^^lLln i- ^™'*«'"S '^«^ '•'^'e'-, after which we
initial noint W„ /of"'*' Skeena proper, a distance of some 18* mile.s from mv
S crosr Ee SkTeux Itt^l^l'^' admlHsable, say 1.40 per 100, i? would enable u^
saving^ dLate of o4r 2^! e;T« -'r"'"^- '^l ^''""'' """ '^^ ^'^ miles, effect a
The sSnlmLv). :KT ' .bf "^°«g'V''n.^ better alignmontand liirhtor work.
tion in^ide'Ttf rhVaVof Wa?kTn 'er'vT '^Is'feTt'" ^'^'^ -''V'r""'^ ^^'"'H
"'"5^e"lil.rf tr- 'T V --g'n o?''-''2oLtJo ?e"e ^ w t^'^ ''''''' «'^'
IB
Glacial streams, subject to Mnow-sliilo.s, which would ottoct the liuo, have been itosmkI-
It an clevatior. admitting of tunnelling. The blnlfs, „s a general thing, are of huro
Imooth rock, ottering no chance lor an accumulation of mow .sutticient to cn-
■anger the work, and which would slide before acquiring any depth or weight; titill a
lovenng of some kind would have to be provided to prevent the track filling duiin.r
Ifc succcsbion ot heavy falls. " "
The shores are, in all cases, steep and heavily limbered, and with very lar-'e
rees, principally spruce, cedar and hemlock. The ground is covered with a ^re^at
Quantity of fallen timber and dense undorhrush, making progress dittlcult and slow.
Ihese general characteristics exist np to the y4th mile, or the extreme point at
srhich the action of flood tide was jjerceptible. From this point there is an improve-
nont in thegeneral features of the country, the blurt's become more rare, and lar«^ (lata
bf considerable extent more frequent; these flats are, in all cases, heavily timberc"l, bnt
b?ith few exceptions, are slightly overflowed at extreme high water.
I .'^H® IV^^'^ "* ^^" '''^'*^'" ^"'^ 'continues about the same, averaging from U to 2 miles
Id width, the main channel alternating from side to side ; a great portion "of the bed
W the river being hlled with islands covered with popular and spruce and intersected
by innumerable high water sloughs in all directions.
I There is a gradual but marked diminution in the quantities and consequent cost
|n each section of 10 miles up to the 50th mile; the last section located from the oOth
■ the faOth mile may safely be taken as a fairaverage, possibly a little in excess of the
buaiUities for a corresponding distance as far as my examination extended, or to the
pUtti mile.
bmu^'^'T ^^^^.''o^'f'P'' of your supplementary instructions under date of September
Both, and received on the 25th October, 1 made immediaie preparations for an ex-
hmimttion of the river to the point required, some ten miles above the point reached
fy the steamer Mumford in 18G(;. The lateness of the season and a letter from Cap-
ain Levyis of the steamer " Princess Louise," stating that he would be at Port Essinir-
on on his last down trip of the season on the 8th November, gave me but little time to
Hevote to this porti )n of the work.
L ^^ V^ Z^" iTr''^'''''° ^° '■'"'"^ ^'''' P"''"^ ^^'^l' ^li" ''"'^'. I l^'ft the main party in
pargeot Mr. J- II. Gray to continue location, and with a small force began a miero-
hietor traverse of the river, which would enable me to form an general idea of the
bomparative quantities of the work. As I have before stated, Hie general features of
pe river remain the same, but with a larger proportion of f s, which would effect
*>, saving in quantities. Therefore the last ten miles, a- locate., aay safely bo taken
I an estimate for the succeeding sections.
As far as the navi^ration of the river is concerned I do not know that it can bo
extended above the point indicated at the 73rd mile, as reached in 1866. The cur-
tent at this point, and in the bend immediately above, is rapid and the water deep.
^ «t the Jfath mile a contraction in the river, called the Ksip-kee agh Falls would
arrest further progress during the stage of water most desiiable for navigation. In
low water the falls disapijear, and a swiftcnrrent, with rocks showing in the channel
p?ould prove an equal barrier to large boats. As my examination only extended some
lour mi es above this point, I am unable lospeak of what the river is like higher up.
Uhe Kitsalas Canyon would, I understand, be another objectionable point. I think
fhereforo, that for all practical purposes Kitsumgallum, at the 72nd mile, may
pe assumed as the head of steamboat navigation on the river Skeena, and for this
purpose boats oflight draft, with powerful engines would be required. Although
pe point mentioned was reached by a comparatively poor boat, a great deal of
Ses "^'*^ experienced, and in many cases she had to be warped over the frequent
My intention was to continue my examination some miles further east or as
Bi asiiitsalas, but on learning that an ice jam immediately above the mouth of
pe ^ymoets some two miles ahead, was moving, made further delay a risk I did not
pare to incur, as the jam once below me, and a change in the weathei- of whinh
wore was every indication, our exit would have been rendered a matter of som»
u
Ui
Eut^^U^t rT,T'-Z "* '•'" "''"">' "f ^ho L;il<olso to tffo 'head of
ow i orvati ., r f u° '"*"••'""-"" ^ could gather from the Indiann, a.ul from a 3
h^ a to U nM I, . ■ M°'^" r di«i<^"''y.-«hould it over be dosirable,-of ^nl
o^tho Zt n oirr '^ ^° '^ '^'^'"' «^' '''''•'^"'"- ^"'°- A corresponding vaoVl
3Z,^cn !/l^°^';- '.''"'■ " '"'"tinuation of the name valley North wan |
t.-active°onc/'tiHr.ltl!''"-''''r'""V^^^""''""'''^ ^'"'•'"^' ^^o summer months is not an at.b
po i o,"o • tl. Urvir«"fh'"^' feature being rain; possibly in keeping with tiie groa 1
Srdaoofn V H 7 ^' ° ««''**"" ^>f 71) was exceptionally cold and wet. Froml
S"utls dl T^^^^^^^^ fri'^^ ^^'^'^ 15fhofJuly,the ra=n w J
fine with (.., s! >, i-^t' V "-""^ ^" ^^*^ beginning of August, the weather wasl
fry u I Ivi rh^'"'^^^ "^'"'^ ^''°™^"' ^^ '"•««l^ in the general humTl
S\Tcu H . on^l ?T.°" f'l° ^-^"^ ""'* ^^^^^ «f Oct.. a heavy fill of some 1 I
i"i -PC red n l«^w^^^^^ '^?''' '^'",''^' '^''^""^^^ ^""""^"J ^y heavy rains, neve^
\ov • nd ft,^ • • T'^^'^ country, and up to the date of our stopping work, on tl, >
■^He;1 ii^l^'^sf'Tl'^rt Tf"'- '^'^'■^ r '^^'^^-''--f --fifJi
coinparativelv lat«Xt« L ftrst frost oxponencod was on the 11th Oct; thiJ
of the sei ^W hf T^ *"" ^"'''^^^^ to our low altitude and the influenj
ar,d wot but I ttrfrn«f ., ° ^""^'' l^'. ^^^^ °^ ^'■^■> ^^ough excessively coldl
ir.to Sw t , M i?iT «<'«»'-';«d ; with the advent of Novembe^-, however, a change!
aLbeinS^^^^^ the lesser channels and sloughs, gave unrafJ
heavy in Ui1 JeLion f n I ff T\ 'r^^'^'^ °^ ^'"^^••- ^ho snow-fall'mit be ve yf
six to Sii Ibet C fS r li-'^ """'"^ '""" t*' °'''«'™' 't »""«' lie at a depth from
at Kif.nm ,,.11 f . ^^^, Indians winter on this portion of the river; one familvSl
Si8tancoori;f^^a;^^|^;«''' «««•« to comprise the entire population fir af
rece.u°S'Sr" ^ -^^^^ ''°'^.* ""^ *''^ ^nd and 3rd November, the indications of the!
S^rwllinnnl "!]•'' "^ ^^'•.^•^'Ji'* 20 miles, or to vvithin 30 miles of Port
almostco"s an rai?sof hi^-^^^^ * -' P°'"' ""' '^''" experienced the
the rain wa conlnt tKn' uvT °^the country. During my stay in Port EssingtoD.
ember 4th r nu^l n^' .*t«"f^ 'ght, and the weather mild. On the following day. No J
mtn ng of tlfettl°^.eacLJt:^ '" '^' "P'-'"^««^ ^«"^««" «" M
Tho PP. h of ' '^»«hed Victoria after a r^ugh trip on the 12th.
bility of S s ponb? TZ IZ'Ar^ ^' ""^"•""'^ "•? denionstrating the entire fea.i-!
work on tl o Sk«In„ •^"^°' ^''^^"^ ^'^ ^ practicable route for a railway. Thel
th' naureof fe"^^^^^^^^^ excessively heavy, the cost being more o^ing tcf
cro-ssed are ea^ v hSin T- ^'T '*"3^g;'«^t excess of quantities. The tributaries!
Witi th« nn. ^^^ *"/^ '° **" ^"«<^' *^^^« b"t a slight depth of water. i
becols atherlrdr^^ "divide " and extension%o pSrt Simpson the work
Should an vf^fnl' ^ ^'^'^ ""*'^'°/ exceptionally difficult in construction,
point ZvaiJvofTeTft«r'*^fr''°""'' ^^'' '"''^^''■'"8 G^^'dner Inlet, as a terminal!
ikeeia, a'.d s milarlt th« kJ'° ''"'k ^^'^ f '."'« ^^ *''''* f'^'"* f"-"™ ^he valley of the
Eiver to the nmth {' ^*>«Naa8 can be reached through tlie valley of Kitsumgallumi
tion in (he di^i^e .W^^^oW^ T'.!' f ^** ^' ^ «'^°"'^ *^«^« ''l^^d' ^ut the dct^n-
a>ill, and heavy t?mEe7 all nrSn?^^^^^ f"* ''"•^ '"PP''«^ P^''^^^' ^^« ^i^^"'* ^^-^^
.beck done to d'^emonst.ite sftiTntn "t ^^1'' ^ '^^'"^ ^'''^'^'' ' ^"* ^ *••"«* «"°"g»^ '^'^
« a distance of some sS m iff 1« ^' ^^^ ^«'"P^'-a«ve cost and quantities embraced
terminus at the Lad cfWark Inlet! "'"^ ^'"^ '"^ '"''''^^ P"'"' """ '^' ''^^f^'^'^
I have the honor to be, Sir,
" Your obedient servant,
GEOEGE A. KEEFER.
fk
ft
APPENDIX No. 6.
UPOBT OF CHAKLE8 HOUETZKY UPON AN EXPLORATION THROUGH THE NORTHERN POIlr
' TION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA IN THE SEASON OP 187^.
! A. KEEFEB.
Ottawa, 25th Fobiuaiy, 1880.
Sill — In nc.onlunco with iriHtniclion.s rocoivod hwl Kfiy, to piwced to B.kish
Polunibm and inako an oxplonitoiy Hurvcy of tho iiorthorn portion of' that Provinre
Mween tho nvora Siieen.'i and Ominica, in as direct a lino as possible with the view
lif ascertaining tho practicability of u railway roiito in connection with a line from
?'ort Simpson to tho Forks of Skeona, between tho last-named point an<i tho Poico
ftiver Passof tho Rocky Mountains, I proceeded to Victoria and reached llazeUon
[the Forks of Skeona) on the 25th of Juno. Messrs. Cambio, Dawson/MiL;;'! nl
[he Reverend Mr. Gordon had preceded mo by a few days, and were then midway
between Hazelton and Lake Babino, on tho now excellent trail over which i Inil
bassed on my journey from tho Poaco River to tho Pacific Coast in December l«7->
As you are awaro, before entering upon this work I had but little belief'in'tlm
kxistonco of an}' practicable passage through tho central range of mountun.s Ivirxr
ketwoon Lakes Babino and Tatla, north of tho latter, although a hasty eximin'Uion iff
Iho country during the winter of 1872 and 1873 had led me to believe in tho nossi-
fcihty of a route from Lake Babine to the south'of Lake Tatla, to;^ards th- N'ltior.
Lake region and south branch of the Peace River. Our existing knowled-ro of tho
bountry assigned to me for examination upon this occasion was, of course vrme •itid
Unsatisfactory, and under tho circumstances it bocamo absolutely necossarv C) m'll-e
1 preliminary journey of roconnoissanco embracing tho unknown roirion incluiled
between the hivor Skoena, Boar Lake, the valley of the Driftwoo' River and th(>
Frying Pan Pass, for, within that area, the key to the passage from the Skeena east
vard had to be sought.
This preliminary work presented no slight difficulty, it bein-^ of primary
Importance that no time si ■ ''^ be lost in what might ultimately nrovo to be usolo,^
bxaminations, while the ki „. icdge possessed by the Indian tribes if the country was
fconfined to mountain trails utterly uneuitod for the object in view Fortunately I
laid down the course of a journey which enabled me in the space of throe weeks to
Hoeido upon the general line of route best worthy of examination, and after several
Hays spent in coUecting all available information, I decided upon a journey from
Eazelton up the Skoena to tho Kiskargnsso Village, on the lower portion of the River
Babine, thence northward vid the Atnah Pass to Bear Lake, south-eastward to Lake
lat a, and thence back to Hazelton. By this procedure I hoped to find out all tha
Bvailable mountain passes. '■
L, ^" .™P?';t»"t feature in tho work about to be undertaken was the determination
^t a Cham of levels across the mountainous country indicated. With this object in
k'lew. I provided three mercurial cistern barometers and tho other neces.sary ao-
plmnces for obtaining a correct series of simultaneous meteorological observations it
iiftereni stations, whence reliable hypsometrical results could ultimately bo deduced
Hourly readings were at once instituted, and kept op by two members of the party
until the montt of September, by which time data for all tho most important levels
were secured. '
On the first day of July every preparation having been completed, I took my-
leparturo from Hazleton en route for Kiskargasse, an Indian village on the lowor-
78
III I
nrnZ! T' 7l '■""''^'",* ^^"^ P''"'" °" tfi" '''"•'•''' ''•'>'. h«vinif tmvolledHo far unoJ
a fairly boaton In<lian trail which f„Mows tho loft bank of tho fiivor SI cena m. 'Ij
pomtotho mouth of the Hahi,.o Uivor, whonco it is carric/ovo lovol er a '^ ^h"^^
nppor K,HkarK«,sHO VillaKo.ituato,! upon tho ri^M.t bank of .ho Hrbino Kivo ?ortv mil J
dMtant from la.lcton, a. .1 six hun.lro.l foot nhovo that ,lau>m. to wh Zu ho S
arc honco orth rof ,rrod. Tho topographical features of tho val o ' of ho SI oon
fm.n IIa.elton to tho Hahino Uivor. a.li'stancoof thirty-throo mi " ,'ilo ", m^m^^^^^
do>c nptmn horo UH thoy will bo reforro.l to farthoron. Tho luwor'nortiorof h
I a^.H.o Valley from tho rivor mouth to tho upnor villago of Kinkar-?? ho s"mon
fine, broad and lovol terraeo.s proHontin- n pari - iko and vory pIoaHim ^,001'^'
companni. mo.t favorably with tho valley of tho Skocna ^ ^ " anpoot, and|
lovolotM!riT."r'''T*''''^''r'*T'^'''.T'' "il""'"'! "Pon a torraco 75 foot above the!
ioint L „ • '" "'r'"' ^''? '""^' *'"'■'' '-^ *"' '^ •^"■"'•Pniirio character, and from thi
Eh ich T. I T^''f''''^ ^'"^ t'^ tho north-oantward of tho Atnah mountains
Tbovo i f r r'r' "•>'"".'"". ""'"' *""'=""' ""' ^" "'"^"^'""'^ "'""t least Sole
above hoa. A couple of miles h.^.hor up is situated tho upper villa-'o conaistinff of a1
do.en ar^e houses, which we reached hy u^oans of a vorl^H-eca im.sdook f- s.h .Jf
8ion bridge swung over tho otitiro breadth of the Ikbino.'hiro asooth^n.rciPu.r, ',,
mass o toam, which boiled and roared beneath at a Lrro.ritt bXeJ
pen.o.u.cular walls of slate rock. Tho village stand.s at least li foK^l^orTha
li::l^ "^"" " '""' '°^"' '''''''' ''^'''^ «^^°"^'^ ^^«'h up and down fo/ uCtlsfdor |
throw o'iJf",'?!''"' '''"■'' "'^ "■ ^"^ ""'' trcachorous set, and appeared to be incHned J
throw obstacles in our way. They wore especially jealous of my Fi-azor Rivor
Indians (I had brought five men with me from the Frazer Rive.) wl Jm uZ lookprf
Z' iZ n ^ ''"'■ '""mT' ^''''?^ ^''^ '"^"'•^'l the Horvicos of a couple of C ans of i
the place an packora. Tho trail, if Huch it may be called from Kiskar.rL:.? n hI-?!^
Lake, ascends tho slopes of tho Atnah MoLtains imm btoh' aft^^^^^^^^
On 'Jf.'s/;:^7r 'T'T^^ '"'"^ ^'^ '"'^•-^^ f'-^*" ^ho lattor, hlg u7on tl e run . '
t^e^mifof n Jf'^"";'^^; ''° f "^^^ '^'Shor up and camped a|ain^atnoon^^rboyonl
nilh/^ f %'yf' ""^ '"' elevation of 5,000 feet above the sea, and probably ab" it
o^ght miles from K.skargasso, which boro S.W. J S. mag. Although in the midst ofsum
mer, our camp was surrounded by large, anH^n some places," ve?y deep ntchesTf
snow which, under the influence of the July sun, was raf idly melt L away iJn,
rise to innunriorable rivulets ofice-cold water which saturatcul the gtoimd^n^evS
between tho Babino and Skeoi.u Rivers, while to tho west and s m h woTTi e nr^J
monotonous and dreary wilderness of peaks and utter desol ,, The e^o "tI
On the morning of the 7th, wo doc:unped at 5 a.m. and be^an tho -iscont of fl... I
Pass. Al hough there was every ,.ron,iso of a very line day, a dense f, . en!e^o, od
wh ,. - . • ^•",,^"^"^ tho summit, but we ski;tod its ice hound shores alon^J
Wh^-h were piled ,n endless confusion huge blo.ks of ice and d,..|,ris f.,, he' c • t ! '
above, w(„lo now and Ihon we were startled by tho crash of newly d si to..- ic
portions which, somolimos rolled acros.s o.ir path \t 7-' . m L m ". !i
^mm t[,;000feetabovesea]inthe.nudstol'apeit:;^rai;l:\ ^ ue^
Ta ie/ ul'^i " "'T """'T^^ '-''i ^V'^''''"' «"'»-''^"k which sloped dowvard
at u steep angle and .omc hve huud- ed f,ot boluw terminated at, and Lung ^IL '
77
Loofiipiofipico. Foi-lutmtoly for us tho Umporaturo win Mitflcicntlv liiL'h to
lici, tl.o Hi.ow and utHiblo ... to obtain go.Mi IbolhoLI, un.l by ea.vlully tLl\u\l our
hy wo ciosMju in hufot}'. -^ fe ""'
r Tliu Indian,, miy that ho.o during tho wintoi, storniH ra^o fea.fuliv, and the
Inds blow w.lb H.icb v.o.onco that Monos luv actually blown about. In (•(in(i.'mat.-on
jll.iK Matcmont wu muv many 1„omo lV..Kn.ontM emboddod in tho mow, which could
It in.vu bcc. ,.huo, thco by any oihc- agency. At 9 a.m. wo hud doc^oaHod our
\,val.on considorably and halted or b.^oalduHt, which wo di.cUHHcd ir. a i.orfbct
bud ., mos.iu.to.. although Ht.ll abovo tho Hnow limit. Twonty-llvo hnnd.ld loot
low tho mim.n.t level wo forded a la.'go tur.'ont flowing to tho ca.l .south-east and
J ,,...,. we.o b.ought o a Hta..d-.still by a Cormidablo glacial to..-o..t from tho north-
..t U.is wo were obhgod to br.dgo, an opcratio.. of no slight dilliculty a« troos
[suthciont length had to bo cut and hauled from a long dislm.co. A day was snent
lor th.s wo.^U ..nd the morning after wo otfeciod a crooning. F.-om thin bridge nine
Id a halt hou.s ront.nuous .na.ching b.'oughl us to tho .summit of a thi.-d ra„Iro
infonor Hummit had been crosso.l duri..g tho interval) oven hi-ho.' than the
,nah Pass, a.id wl.oiico tho Bear Lake mountains wore visiblo. Tl'ds ono of t «
i..st t.y.ng days of tho Hoa«on w^Ts divo.^.silied by changes from Hwam.,' mul fo.^oHt o
nd Hwopt he.ghtH covered with eternal «now, the lower slopes boint; wxl,' ■•, like a
It sponge and ox.jd.ng copious ntreams of ico cold water, which rendered it utterly
pos.-.ble lor us to keep d.-y. In fact, I ntay nay, that from Kiska.-gasso to Bear Lake
lu.Tn aciZs' '""" """'" ""'''^ ^"'^'''"''' '^^''''^ ^"^ ""g"'"'^' """«''t wheiJ^ver
I'Vom the last mentioned summit there opened out a raaL'nificant viow of tho
.mfy to the South. The low-lying and apparently level vallc^yTho NoelLtia^^^
K..|tho.n tnbutary of tho River Bablne, rising in 4out latitude 56<^, an. ' ent2 2
< latter u few m.le.s bolow tho outlet of Lake Babine, could bo t.'aced for manf
ilos of Its course. "muy
nn!T?nnl;''r "'^7'"'^ numorous glaciers could bo soon to tho north-west. We
mpedlOOO foot lower down, on tho dr.est spot available, just below tho timber
-ound ...the shelter of ulittlo grove of stu.,Ved pines. 'Areo-quanors of amile
he westwa.-d there ghstoncd a g acior of huge propo.tions, tho sou,.co of a raK
in idublo stream which wo forded next morning. "i u imaor
From this camp, tho southern end of Boar Lake bore about N. by E mnrr hnt
Kjthcr high range yet intorvoned, ^ '='' "^^
Following up tho valley of^ the Noolkitquah into which drained several largo
.c.al tor.e ts from tho N.W., wo loft that stream and crossed a watershed
.ce.ul..,g afterwards into tho valley of Driftwond River. Crossing this stream wo
■ended the (4th) range bounding Boar Lake on tho wost, and reached the lake
-em tho afternoon of tho 12th of July. Tho formation throughoutfr om the
liiiio to Bear Lake, appears to bo slato.
Bea, Lake lies at an elevation of 1,879 feet abovo Ilazelton, or, approximately
:04 ft;et above sea level. It is a narrow sheet r>f water extending froin tho narallol
.... a. or about twelve miles, in a N. by W. uirection, with" a width ^ying
f , ',,'V 1 ; •'' T '"' t ^t ^'«'^^'"'«f '"^^^ tho Skoona. The Lake lies apparently
l.m a Miicl.nal fracture, the general strike of tho strata, which aro oxceo.li. ily well
liilse I on the eastern side, being about VV.N.W. mag. ° "^
The mountains, by which the lake is encompassed ai-e from 3,000 to4 OOOfoethi-rh
ue western sido, rising back to as groat an elevation in tho opposite direction.
Vuth, tho cou.it.y appears very rough. Before descending U tho lako shore,
inu i> ..rT ,'r I»;'''^r"''" '^•-'""'' ^^■.''i*^'^ iortunatelyforus attracted
Imuhat; attention at l-ort Connolly, some ton miles distant, as fbur hours later a
so,;',l!''?' '""f^r''";!'-, ^^••■\^^^^-'-'l' toi'O'nark hero, that from tho heights to
,sul-eustof Boars Lake w.. had a capital view of the valloy of tho J)i°ftwood
hot , t!io upi)or end of Lako 'iatla was al.so visible 30 miles distant.
I After paynig u visit to the Hudson Bay Company's post at tho lower end o
t-uuuiii, a„u muKin- o^i.cn.-Mvo oiKiuiry, I abauduuod Lho idea of any oxuminatiou
f (■
~^W:
16
to th'j iiurthward, much as I should have wished, but time was woarins^ on, ami hoio!
I may take the occasion to say that one of the gi'oalo.st difflcullicM aUoiiiling thijj
season's operations was in deciding vvliero not to go, as every day was jirecions, and!
our dehiya innumerable. I had now seen portions of the Bahine and Noelkitquahl
Eivej valleys, and felt sure that if there existed a fairly pruciicable pass ihioiigli thel
mountains lying between the Neelkitquah and Driftwood Rivers, the' prolilom oil
finding a passage from the Skeena to Lake Tatla would be satisfactorily solved.
Hiring three small poplar dugouts, we retraced our way to the upper end ofj
Bear Lake, made the portage from the latter into the Driftwood River, and ran dowrl
to Lake Tatla at a rate which compensated to some extent for our slow progress be-!
tween Kiskargasse and Bear Lake.
The " Driftwood," although at a low stage, was yet very swift, the average fallj
in the ujiper portion being at least 12 feet per mile. The distance from Boar Lakel
to Lake Tatla, by following the sinuosities of the stream, is about thirtj-five miles!
and the difference of level between the lakes is 333 feet. The valley of tlu; Driftwood!
is low, wide and of a generally easy character. On the western side it is flanked byl
an elevated range of mountains, extending from Bear Lake to the Kotsiiie River;!
while on the east, the ground rises by easy gradations to a lesser elevation, forming,!
some ten or twelve miles distant, what I have designated as the " Omenicu" range, af
chain of low mountains or, more appropriately, hills, through which, in severuli
places, thcie appear to be low passes to the Omenica Valley. Unfortunately, thej
valley of the Driftwood, having a south-easterly direction atliwart the conr^el
of the line I was in search of, is, with the exception of its lower )j0ition, uuavailabkj
Running down to the parallel of 55° 45', I saw a gap in the range to the westwanl,
whence came a tributary of the Driftwood, called the "Kotsine." Westward, fromS
the same summit, another stream flowed into the Neelkit(^uah. Such was tiief
information gathered from a Bear Lake Indian whom I had with me. This pa.s
which proved afterwards to bo fully flfteen miles distant, I roughly guessed to be
about 3,000 feet above sea level, but deferring its examination to a future opportunity.!
hastened on to Lake Tatla, the while anxiously scanning the range to the eastward|
for indications of a pass to the Omenica.
Here it may be remarked that the ciiain of navigable waters extending south-l
eastward from Fort Connolly, in about latitude 56° 6' north, to the Detroit or narrowJ
of Lake Tatlfi, in latitude 55° 9' 30", a distance of eighty miles, is flanked on botlil
sides by a nearly continuous range of mountains; that on the western side boing thol
higher and more precipitous, but broken in two places by the Driftwood and Kotsinej
River valleys, the latter being the key to the route discovered this season. On thej
eastern side of this great trough (as the depression in which those waters lie mayl
not inaptly be termed), as has been remarked, the mountainous chain is of a muchl
lower altitude, and is pierced at several jwints by comparatively low passes, of whicbi
the lowest are : one behind the site of Buckley House and communicating with thel
Omenica by the Omenica-Sitleca, the other the pass at present used by rainersl
which connects Lake Tatla with the Omenica by the valiej' of the Fall River. Thel
latter I adopted further on in the season as being in all probability, the lowest, most!
direct, and easiest of access from the low valley of the Driftwood River. I
The only known route to the northward of Fort Babino, across the western orj
central range separating Lake Tatla front Lake Babine, is that of the " Frying Paol
Pass", a low depression nearly 5,000 feet above sea, perfectly unsuited for a railway!
and at the best, but a wretched pass even for foot passengers. From these facts, itl
will bo seen that, but for the depression of the Kotsine Pass in lat. 55° 45' a direct line!
from the Skeena to the Peace River would be impossible, and I have no hesitation itl
saying that the route now laid down vid the Kotsine Pass is the only one at all suitj
able for a railway north from Middle River, or, the outlet of Lake Tatla. f
From Tatla Landing to the village on Babine Lake vid the " Frying Pan Pass," thel
distance by the trail is perhaps thirty-five miles, but certainly not more than twentjj
seven as the crow flies, Wit}i the exception of a little good land near the lakes, thof
country is worthless for agricultui-e, and veiy much broken. On each side of the "Frjj
w
^ woariiiij on, aivl hoie'
iciiltios iUtoiiiling ihi<i
(lay was jn-ccions, am
il)ine and Neolkitquali!
icable pa.ss llu'ongh thei
[Ivors, tho' jjrohloin oil
iHlactoi'ily Hoivod.
ly to tlio upper ond of
)d Rivei', and ran dowii
ir our slow progress be-j
swift, the average fal
ance from Bear Lakef
ibout thiri}-livo milosj
valley of tho Driftwoodl
)rn side it is flaidceJ by^
tho Kot.siuo Eiver
iser elevation, fonningl
10 " Omonic'i" range, a|
igh which, in hovorjilf
\ Unfortunately, the
1 athwart tho conr-el
>r jjOition, uuavailablc.j
range to the westward
le." Westward, fromj
quah. Such was thel
with mo. This pass,
•oughly guessed to bi'f
to a future opijortunityj
I'ango to the eastwardf
iters extending south-l
the Detroit or uarrowJ
is, is fla!d<ed on bothl
kvestern side being the
Driftwood and Kotsinei
this season. On thel
those waters lie may!
s chain is of a mucbl
sly low passes, of whicbf
nmunicaling with thel
sent used by mineral
the Fall Eiver. Thei
3ility, the lowest, mo8l|
ood Biver.
across the western or|
it of tho " Frying Pan
unsuited for a railway]
From these facts, ill
it. 55° 45' a direct line!
[ have no hesitation inl
he only one at all suit]
)f Lake Tatla.
' Frying Pan Pass," thd
not more than twentyl
ind near the lakes, tM
1 each side of tho " Frjj
tennf ? /'J>o mountains are high one peak being at least H.noO feetab,.ve the eye,
kv 8,000 oct abov-1 sea and from the Jvotsine Pass to the Detroit, near the lower end of
>ke Tatla, the entire distance between the two lakes is occupied, with scarceiva break
In Its continuity, by an irregularly disposed and lofty mountain chain
I On reaching Lake Babine on the 20th July, I found one of my" meteorological
hbservors ... camp Ho had ar.-.ved on the 41 h, and since then ha,l kept an hourly
k-gister of ba.-o.nct.-.cal and thorinometrical fluctuations, while another was similarly
Biigaged at Hazlcton. iiaiij-
Leaving the Babine obsei-vation camp on the 22..d, I cncami.od a little to the
^'estwa.'d of the Susqua Summit, .n order to obtain si.nulta..oous leadino-s f,,,- differ-
hce of level be... g somewhat doubtful of the aecu..icy of my ane...icr.eadi..gs of
December, 18,2. The resul p.-oved my fo.-mer estimate to be too high, the true
elevat.on now asce.-ta.ned be.ng 1,400 feet above the love! of Lake Babhio F.'om
[the summit we reached Ha/deton easily in two days, passing on the way lour camps
lof tho Peace E.ver jiarty. i o j • ^ui,i^,o
Having now acquired a general idea of the topogra,.l.ieal features of
I he reg.o.. through wh.ch a l.ne^ seemed feasible, I determi.,ed to ascend
ItI.e luver Skeena ... a canoe for the purpose of making a micomet.'ical survey
las far as the mouth of the Babine Kivo.'. It was, ''however, i.nuossible 'X
lobtain assistance f.;om the aena River Indians, who wee alVaid to I'isk
Ithe dange.'ous navigation oi che Upper Skeena. Fortunately I was enabled
Ito secu.'e the services and canoe of a Meth.hkatlah Indian, who had leeently come
luo from the coast and was wdl.ng, for a consideration, to accept all risks
My own men were excellent canoe men, so that I now felt quite i.ulependont
of the natives. Wo .•cached the mouth of the Babine River after seven days .rduSus
and extremely dange.-ous navigation, tho distance made du.-ing that timJ bei...' 38*
miles. I was fortunate in choosing our time, the Skeena being then at I
good stage, a week earlier it would have been impossible to ascend it. the river being
a continuous clia.n of bad rap.ds, and flowing in many places th.ough narrow canons
in several of which we pasoe.1 hund.'eds of Indians busily engaged in Z^^
hshery The oxcitemont created amongst them by the pa^sage^f' our solifa?y ^aiioe
Iwas mtenso, ours being the first over to ascend so far in safety. Some of the Kiskiirirasse
[Indians oven went so far as to oncou.-age us with charcoal d.awings on tree stumps
Irepresent.ng our canoe bottom up with all its occupants swimming for their livk'
[Indeed, he jealousy manifested by those savages was very g.-eat, and at o.o 'mo
p.;om.sed to lead us into t.'ouble. We got along ve.y well, howeve.', until the Babine
R.ver was reached, when a cold-blooded murder was committed by a KiLu-gasse
Ind.an, and during the excitement consequent upon this, we wore warned notU>
ascend to the v.llage. I pushed on, nevertheless, but my crew beginning to man° est
signs of d.scontent, and the owner of the canoe flatly /efusing to go a step further
he having years ago taken the l.fe of a Kiska.-gasse, and now fearilig retiiliatoml
nnw^^'""f ^'''\'"f,'"*'"'r'^'*^'^"S^^«"*««0'^t'°"« thesurve/of the Babine
[upwards as far as the lake outlet. -^ "^"^ -""ui"*-
Lntl„^°i'r"'"^' ^j" Hazloton, I determined upon a survey of the Babine from tho lake
?rom theTrnft'o f f rK^°'"f '"I'J r^' ^'°'''''''' ^^'''^^^'^ ^" "^^^""P^ a passage
S„ «t . ^^^ ^.''^\"''' ^y the vahey of the Skeguniah, an eastern t.' butary
fvi^vf "\.'"'"''"^'''''^"*^'"'^''"'"'^'^"^'° Kyspyox.andits valley presentiij
a very favorable appea.ance f.-om the last named village. Tho obieet was to avoid
the eno.-mous bend of the River Babine, which, in the e%ent of the^tguniah provTng
a failure, p.esonted ^he only means of access to the eastwa.-d. Accordingly I S gZd
Au.uT with tf '"/^^''''^f ^"^''^"•. «"^^ «et out again f.-om Ila.leton^on the 7th
August, with tho intention of penetrating the maze of mountains as far as tho River
Babine, on a course parallel to, but north from, tho valley of tho Sus<,uah
fh^t ^2 '"''^ tho valley of the Skeguniah, I found it to bo of so rough a character
for LTkeZh-n^ ^^t'^ '"^ ^'"'"^""i '1^°, "^^?"'"'-« ""'' «t''"^« «^'«'' t''<> mountain
for Lake Bab.ne, where we reached the oh.orvation camp eight days later the
lontire party completely knocked up from fatigue and o'^^'er "exertion, bu' now
M
irf
jt Ma >w i » «w*w p B ii TOU* . » ti;<
80
¥
possesKOfi of the definite knowledge that the only way from the lilvei- Skeona to,
the oastwurd is through the Babine Valley.
I began the survey of the Babine Eiver on the 18th August, and after making a
micromotrical iravorso for 25 miles below the fishery, examined the valley for some
distance down, but failed to reach the upper Kiskargasse village. Quito sufficient of
the valley wan, however, seen to enable me to state that it is quite practijsablo for u
railway, although of a rough character for probably a dozen miles above the upper'
village of Kisgargasse. From the isolated mountain in latitude 55° 88' north, ami '
elightly west from the Neelkitquah, I commanded a view of the Hudson Bay House
on Lake Babine and of the lower Babine valley, and although the village of J
Kisgai'gasse was hidden by a low spur, its position was recognisable. Below
the outlet ol Lake Babine the ri"er flows between low banks, which gradually '
increase in height until when, fifteen miles lower down, they rise to olovationb 1
of 250 or 300 feet, and increase probably to 500 feet when within half a dozen milen
of the upper village of Kisgargasse. Above the terrace upon which the latter is ;
*ituat(!d, the right bank, covered with dense forest, recedes at a moderate inclination,
the mountains proper being far back.
Being satisfied as to the feasibility of the Babine valley, I returned to:
Lake Babine, and shortly after commenced a micrometrical survey cf th«
Eiver Neelkitquah, up which the projected lino had to be taken. This
a very rapid stream, draining a largo area, and receiving numerous glacial]
tributaries, several of which we had crossed on our journey to Bear Lake.
At this time its waters were low, and we were enabled to ascend it with two
dugouts. Thirty-one miles from its mouth wo reached a little stream supposed to
come from the Kotsine Pass, and abandoning our canoes, wo pushed north-oastwani
through the dense forest towards the Pass, the summit of which proved to be six
•miles distant. A small stream flows from the summit westward into the Noelquit- ,
quah, but falls into the latter some distance ab»ve our canoe camp. This
although available f)r
camp. Tins pass,
lable f )r a railway, proved eventually to be several hundred feet higher
than 1 had anticipated. Thence to the Driftwood River we found our way with great
difficulty. From Lake Tatia, the country was examined vid the " Hogem" Pass and
down the valley of the Fall River to the Omenica, the survey being brought to a
<;lose at the mouth of Germanson Creek, An unexamined break of about fifty railcH
probably intervenes between the last named point and the Peace River, which I was
unable to roach owing to the want of canoes and the laioness of the season. How-
ever, although it would have been desirable to complete the survey so far, it is a
matter of little importance, the pr&cticability of the lower portion of the Omenica for
railway purposes being beyond a doubt. Before going farther, I shall now proceed
to a description of the whole line examined, taking up each portion of the route
seriatim, from Hazlelton eastward to Germansen Creek.
As will have been gathered from the foregoing resu/ne of the season's operations,
the Babine valley presents |the only available approach toj the Peace River Pass
from Hazloton on the Skeena.
The Susquah Valley is scarcely suitable for a trunk line, while the route vtd the
valley of the VVotsonqua discovered many years ago by the Western Union Telegraph
parties, points unmistakably either to the Pine River or Yellow-Head Pass of the
Rocky Mountains. Apart from the last mentioned route, there is no way south from
Hazletcn of reaching the Pl. tee River, and my own explorations of this season show
oonclusively that, from Hazleton northward to the River Babine, a high and moun-
tainous chain blocks up any passage to the eastward; while northward from the
River Babine, the only other way at all possibly available would be by the Upper
Skeena, Sestout and Omenica rivers, or by Bear Lake and the Driftwood river
valley, both routes by far too circuitous, and that of the Sestout probably quite inad-
missible.
From Hazleton, northward, a line up either bank of the Skeena for ten or twelve I
miles would be perfectly feasible, the right bank being probably the easier, but above j
that it would, I think, be advisable t-o carr^ it aloa<' the left bank which offers
81
the IJivor Skoona to ,
ator fac.lit.es for a road. From Hazlolton to the mouth of tho river B.bino tbore
Iscven or e.gh rav.nes varying in depth from 100 to 150 feet, to ^rL whidi of v
Ltm-e« would be required, although, of course, much would depend upon ociUon^
fehore l,ne not re.iumng such expensive bridges a. onV som^e Slee'
lie from the river, which, on the other hand, wo'uld possess matm-ial advan?
I.S m considerable stretches of level ter-aons T?,.r„r, tt„ i ^ luaieuai aavant-
[the River Babino the gone.al course o^ the ^ «ln ^ ""^ ^ V" '"'^"^^
[distance 33 miles, and diirence of ?evel 350 feet the si^iltsTn /en*^"'. T''''
\t. In this distance the Skeena washes the telS't es o? fhe ,^,,^^^^^^^^^
[tamed .n the tr.angu ar area bounded by itself, the Babine River and ihTvSZ
Ihe .Misqua, a m.mntainous agglomeration of snow clad peaksTveWnfat leas^S
lare m.les. Twelve m.les above Hazleton the valley of the Skeena con tacts o
ke exten and the river s frequently conHned withirf narrow canons Th, banks
I generally abrupt, and varv considerablv in hnlrrJ^t fk„ r^ '""^- -^'"' i^'i'iKs
ur beingiometin'ies 150 feet above Ihe ?i'4^- !ev'l"t\ e^catrpStiot^VS
u Id, in most cases be carried some distance back and nnon th« v.rh^L ■/ u
led that the works in this valley would ^nJi^^e^^s^tv;':' Ipl^L^^
Itions of the river between Kitsellasse Canon and llazleton ^ ^
The lower portion of the Babine River valley contrasts very favorably with
t of he Skeena. w,de and level benches or terraces covered with IuxuhS vc^ta
|., extending from the confluence of the two rivers to the uppei^illage a? the S"
^0, „ about .00 foot nbovo tho lovol o( Ilailolon, which i/sLZ/ to to T'tiM
.summit of the table land at the base of the isolated Mountairis aLuttnOO iSt
d g'Tr'nt°fo%""ioS'fi*?r ^-- ^^''^'-f-e to this p-fint ;tfe% n
ecu ng J.o^pe 100. Some distance above Kiskargasse tho terraces dis-ninem-
ed slopes taking their place, while the river flows several hundi-ed 4et bSow
the hillsides bemg gentle, and heavily timoered from waterSe ud ind fm-
"sseS tt"bir\lieVtr 'T ''"^Tr^ '^ «"ticipated."tTera^^t?eamlat
frJS"ui;,?n^;r w^Vto 'SafSf ''° '"■'■'"' ''''• "'^■'"^ ^^ ^"''^ ^ '^"^g«
fc^^ --- - - - mi. 1,
«ne Summit, which is reached at tl\e 83rd mile from Hazle mi^ Se Ihiris a
: n the central range at the western base of which the Neelkiquah flows Tie -ate
SrlT °"' T°^ ^T^' to the summit was rather more thin 2 perlOO lu by
/ irieltd ^"''" '^' ''"'^ °^ '^' Neelkitquah, the gradient maj: be
My tStLf.tl ^?''",! '"'"'"'* ^^^' ^^'J^^''^ P'i^* 0^ t/^l^ route) is, ac
rpafsisfavorS A .?'''''^1*«"' approximately 3,600 feet above soa level,
mpy charactm a^d i^ tT ^ ""' '"^''^ "r""^ ''*^° ^^ *^° «"'"™it it is of a level,
H ^^On tho o ;*^" ;,,'" 11"" "«»-™7?t place the mountain bases are nearly a mile
or4 000feetltov«thl "^''""t/^'^^.ri^o to high elevations, being probably
Duth and east of fc? T' 7^! ^'^"'' ^^"'''''"^ '''««« *° ^^^ mountains a Uttb
S-8 thrDrSood WvT-™' ' ff ."".'L^^o-'"'*"'"'^ ^''«'-«° «f ^^bout twelve miles
L..\7ru:!:''P.L^'^''\^ ThoUne does not follow the Kot-
i-eastward towards the unoer and of Lake Tatla. with
fi
i;
123— GJ
I upper
S2
i5f,fC/"''' °'?°^ of li;-SHOiiinir tho down grade into the Driftwood River Valley al
AotHinebuliwi a tributary to the KotHine.aiidat the 101st mile the Driftwood Ri f
Sa^Iton''- PV m 'tr "L';" "•^"" '^™''''^'T '^%'^''''"^ ^'^^^ feet°abov'^Zle ,
uazolton i^iom the Kotnine summit to the Driftwood River the trades wi
h. I ^'.^''}''y.\ '" »"^ «r '^°^' ^"'" ''•^ ^••"'^ t'^'^ K«t«i"° Sitlica to "he^Dw"uv,!f
S Lake TiflV^n !!? P^'^^l'^^ymnivinga^nidior.t of 2 per 100. Cro.sHing tho v
ot Lake Tatla, and passing the site of Buckley House at the lOSth mile the
• Ahnvl'fK%^T/ ,*^?r V crossing the Driftwood River at a high level, sav 75 fJ
?he 'T?ot?n-- P^ •^"^^''.''"'^ keeping well up the slopes to thefastof B^ckfey Hot'
the Hogem Pass may bo reached with gradients not exceeding 1 5 ner 100 In J
the distance from Buckley House to the summit, the mounta n^sCos are o r
gentle and covered with forest, one or two streams running through KiJmS
down?ho'°" T"'''?^''' "^""^' magnitude; it is also probaSle, tha^in oJder tS b
down the grades, a large amount of earth excavation through the sumniit swm
wl w'lrrr"^- k^" «^«^-y ^^espect the eastern ascent from tTe vaU^rof- he Z
wood will be much easier than that towards the Kotsine summit and in 1 I
approaches to the low level of Lake Tatla, it will probably bo mora d ffi,. u f J ^f
the grades within reasonable limits than ;,n any oX por^L o tt r^'U^^^
Hazelton and the Omonica (the valley of the river Babine perhaps excenre J
tsoTbly h^; tn ,0= f^f ''-'• '''''^'''' - -^ -^^ ^-- = -
j.e £9^95^:;^^^^ Sr^siiizi
ZfU^ P^f '' ^°T^^'-' «hort, stiff grades of 2 per 100 may be fo^d unavoida 1
notably between the outlet of Second Lake and Wer Creek, and again between I
Sed'ijg'iri^Se^''*' "'^- '"^ ^" ^^•^^^ ^^^^-'^ '^^ mi'ziTz:\
:Z^Z 7r "^' °^'^" ^'"^'"-^^ '''''''^'''- ^'^'^y ^ -ined 'haVtrif al?7
riv«7«l?'^".''''f ^"d glory of "New Hogem," situated ten miles further down J
™' "^PP^r. *^' fj^^^ been of an even more evanescent nature, for its sUe Zo S
recognizable by about an acre of stumps, the sole vestige of man's frnmei^nreseni
And yet, but a few years ago, both places were busy haunt«. Now thev a -e^howl J
wildernesses although, even to-day, men occasionally pa^ up Ynd down
Omen.ca with supplies for the much impoverished gold mines'^ of Manson 1
Sith rrffr'^'' ^^''■'' ^'■'^."P^' ^ couple score of mifers ekeout an existence a^
with very few exceptions, barely manage to keep out of debt Old n^^l,^- t\
mile, .nd the descent so gentle as, not in all proba'biUty";^ex'ceed 5 ^orT'S?'
Between Pall River and Germansen Creek, where the elevation of th^ r\ J
18 approximately 1,732 feet above Hazelton, or 2 457 above s^ the ri?Lnn ^""'1
fXatS ^^/f«--g the sinuosities of the OmtnL: whX^' ontSrcD
Its channel, the low sand and gravel banks, hetweon which it flow r«« n "^'^
away to the impetuous but smooth current.' "" ^'' ''^^^''^ S'^i^
83
The yalloy of the Omenica is very beautiful, and the mountain.s which h.m it iu
t each H>dc, al hou^.h, in one or two eases, of con.siclcrubio olova'io,., do not „os.se.s
haiTon, wild appearance ho characteris.ic of the .snow-clad peal s of the Skcona
|d I abme country. In fact, from Lake Tatia eastward, a chau^.e in the ge 3
ipoct of the country mq,ute apparent. Lake Tatia also appears To mark a change
1 the geo o«,c.aI formation, ,g,.h -boar ng nlato beinjr prcdoln'inant on its east .side, an
r p' I Ir"'/'-"' ; V0"-'1^'''"l^''> o.xtcnt of the' rcj^ion to the eastward, as fir
the Rocl<y Mountain chain. As has already been remarked, the survey was not
Irned east of Gcrmansen LaMdmf,s Imt there is no reason to doubt the favourable
lara.-ter of the Omenica between Germansen Landing and the mouth of thoFindlav
Bver. •'
Below Germansen Cieolc the Omenica preserves a nearly placid course through
kvide valley, for 15 or 20 miles, a ter which it becomes rapid, and a canon, formidable
[ough 11. high water, but passable for the frailest canoe when at a low sia-^e intor-
tnes. This IS the "formidable" Jilack Cau.n of Butler's "Wild NoKh Land"
mn.er informed me that he had ascended from the Findlay branch to
srmanscn Landing entirely alone in a very small canoe, and that the canon walls
not high piobably not more than 7.1 feet, will, ample room on either side f.^r road
hrpo.es. Be ow the canon, as the Findlay month is approached, the country is of
[^•ery low an.i level cha..icter. It is therelore riuite apparent that no obstacles of
importance would be met with.
As regards the question of grades in this unexamined portion of the Omenica it
Is been seen that, at Germansen Landing the olev.ation is 2 457 feet above the sea.
«ow, assuming the level altitude of the Peace Iliver at the Findlay branch to
> 1,700 feet above sea (ami I think this to be an under-estimate), vve obtain a
rterence of level equal to 757 feet whicdi, evenly distributed throughout the
Itervening tliHtancc, gives a very moderate inclination, say of ij fp,,t per mile so
lat upon this score there can be very little looin for doubt. '
I The foregoing description will be better understood by reference to the
Icompanying profile and plan, the latter drawn to the scale of .,4^, or 8,000 feet
anir:ch, \yhichshowsa very large porli.m of hitherto unknown country, and
K-'V "?■*'' ^^ '?"*''' from Bear Lake in latitude 5G° toLakeTrembleur in latitude
I 5. (otherwise known as Cross Lakej, an.l from Ilazelton to Germansen Creek
frer three degrees of longitude. Upon the profile exhibited, the distance from Fort
Impson to the head of the Rocky Mountain Canon of the Peace River is 483 miles
I It IS also worthy of remark that, on the existing maps of British Columbia, the
prtion of country examined by me this season has been erroneously laid down as to
Ititude, the true positions of Bear Lake, Buckley House, and Tremblcur Lake, being
bm 10 to 15 minutes of latitude more to the north than thev are thereon shown
I Before bringing this brief description to a close, it mav be well to add that
Iclian ropon points to a vast extent of fine prairie countiV immediately to the
fcrthwaniof Lort Connelly, which is also said to extend eastward to the upper
Indlay River, and northward, never so far. It is much to bo regretted that circum-
rtnceo forbade any attempt to see even the slightest portion of this interesting
Igion, which. If its existence bo real, presents a strange anaraoly in such a moun-
|inous country. •'
During my visit to Manson Creek, I also learned from a miner who
icendcdthe river Findlay some years ago, that it is a nuiu'iiiflcent stream, almost
fcustrino in character for many miles, with low, level banks, and flowing majostic-
Vy through a wide valley at the western base of the Rocky Mountain Chain. Its
Dper branches drain the prairie region above referred to.
I Throughout the whole distiance from Ilazelton to Germansen Creek, the route
■and has been traced through a densely-wooded region. On the western portion, i.e..
^m llazelton northward, and well up the valley of the River liabino, the forest, owing
I the humidity of the climate, is almost entirely green, but bevondthe central ransQ.
Jge areas „i tho^ Driftwood, Pall River and Omenica River valleys have been
fnuaod by fire. The forest of this northern region does not present a great variety
It}-
liy
8^
■M
of wo,Kl.s-tlie prmc-ipal aio tho npruce f5r, the Banksian pino in the dry localitie
cotton wood and aspon along tho rivers and lakes. A few birch trees were sooii^^
the vicinage of Lake Tatia, and thei-o 1 saw, much to my surprise, a veritable hi.
bark oanoo, tho property of an Indian.
The spruce tir is, however, more universally distributed through this raountainni
region than any other wood. Wild fruits are plont-fu!, and the numerous stroarj
teem with fish. 'i
A very large portion of tho country seen is quite unsuitable for agriculture J
causes being ,n certain localities, great elevation, in others want of good soil ii,T
(seventy of climato, or, properly speaking, the short duration of summer. I fear
deed hat from this cause tho cultivation of any but the hardiest cereals will be'
posMblo although It IS difficult to say what eflect might be produced by cloani:;
and settlement. At Bear Lake, scarcely any attempt has hitherto boon mad.
cultivate more than a few potatoes and garden vegetables, and even those have r
proved a success; still, I believe thatwith proper care, good barley and potatoes mi-'
be grown there. j i "o-i
At Lake Babine some potatoo ]jatches were completely frozen about Vi
beginningof August ; this was, however, in a great measure duo to tho too close xJ
imity o the garden to the lake. In a higher location this accident would, in J
probability, not have occurred. During tho month of August severe nocturnai flu
were of frequent occurrence in tho valleys of tho Babine and xNalkitauah Rivers j
was, however, remarked that on the uplands vegetation never sutfored from thatcaJ
to such an extent as in the close, deep valleys occupied by water. On the 21st
August the cold was so great as to form ice a quarter of an inch thick at my can
camp on the River Babine. while 400 feet higher, on the table-land, the wild f.ii,,
were scarcely touched by frost. I observed, as also did Mr Macoun, this phonoJ
nop on the Peace River in the autumn of 1872. It is easily explained : the uplanl
enjoy during the day a greater portion of sunlight than tho valleys, and moreovertJ
winds exorcise a heating influence over tho soil and vegetation, while they often lif
to reacn the valleys at all, where the undisturbed and stagnant atmosphere predJ
poses to frost. ° 1
f^m.di!^'"''''''"'' "? ^'''' P''°''"'''' '^"''''"S ^'^^ ™""^^' of July, great vicissitudcsl
tempeiature wore observed, intense heat prevailingduring the day, while at night J
minimum thermoneler fell very low indeed, and on the 3Istof July is recorded '-fi J
snow on tho mountains," an observation which however deserves no special nc.tii
the same phonomenon taking place all the year round at intervals, throughout i|
length and breadth of the province. ■
in the Ominica quarter, and in the valley of that river, during tho month
beptember, very cold i,nd frosty weather was experienced. On the 21st of Septemlvl
ho poplar tol.age was of the deepest yellow, and tho autumn was, I should sav|
least one month in advance of our usual experience in the valley of the Ottawa''^
While on the subject of climate, I may mention that the meterological obsciTi
tions of this summer, undertaken chiefly for hypsometrical purposes, are now boiJ
tabulated with the view of obtaining some insight into the climitic cmiditionrof'tJ
X ©Q ion, I
.nn^r'^i^'iK^^Q/'"'""'!^'^''''" ""^ ^^'^ '^'*™"''^ '^'''■'^'- I «e»t my men back to IJ
toast i,a the Skeena River merely reservinga couple to accompany me on my way]
Quesnelle, which was reached, via Stewart's Lake,' on tho 12th Oclobor. DurimAl
r.Minn'If •' i "ni if- •"'"•0'"et''i'='*l «"i'vey of the east shore of Lake Tatla and'o]
portion of Middle River.
An examination was also made of tho southern end of Lake Tutia, having' :
view a possible line from St. John's Bay on Lake Babine ^ ,
T .1 Vu-"^ ^ reported that the chain of lakes lying immediately to the e.istward
LakoBabino presented a favorable opportunity for tho pasoUgo of a railway ivi
the direction of Ihe outlet of Lake Babine, and that the wooded hills which^ J
ht. John s B-ay on tho east might in all probability be scale! by a railway. Dai4
tho past season Sh: Cambio, on his way up Lake Babine, walked up the trail whil
85
cnnscs those hillf, and found by aneroid that the elevation did notoxcood 1,000 feet,
aiul that tho«e hillH are quite practicable. Such bein<,' the cuw, I exiiminod, asuh-oady-
remarked, the Houthorn end of Lake Tatia in thiM connection.
To the oantward of the southern end of Lake TatIa the countiy appeai-H 1o\t
I although Mtill very much broken. There may be some direct pasHage thence to the
Nation Lakes, but I am inclined to think that a more favorable lino would bo found
by following the Middle Eiver to Lake Trerablour, and skirting itn northern shores
to the low valley of a small stream which fulls into Lake Tremblour at its eastern
extremity. Thence I believe a passage might be iound towards McLeod Lake
After a very careful study of this northern region, 1 am more than
ever convinced that the route via the Kotsine Pass is the only available
one from the Skeona to the Peace River Pass of the Rocky Mountain^
and that the southern one via the Tatlabunkut chain of lakes, the pass opiiosite Fort
Babine, and Middle River towards Lake McLood, which lies probably sovoncy-five
miles due oast from Lake Tremblcur, would only he useful in connection with the Pino
River Pass to which I drew the attention of the Government in 1872.
The meteorological observations made during the past summei', disconnected as
they unavoidably were, are unsatisfactory as data for arriving at more than
a rough estimate of the climatic conditions of the region so hastily
examined. Nevertheless, it may be i^marked that the register shews
i-ome interesting thermometrical dift'eroncos which 1 shall give here. Simul-
taneous hourly readings during the month of July shew a ditferenco of four degrees
[of Farenhcit between Hazolton and Lake Babine, the former assumed to bo 725 feet
above the sea, the latter 1,647 feet higher. The higher temperature occurs at
llawlton Similar readings at Lakes Babine and TatIa show differences of 3 degree*
of Farenliuit, the higher temperature being at Lake Tatla.
The climate of Bear Lake for a few days in July, as compared with that of
lllazelton, is in fike manner, shewn to bo seven degrees colder.
The most genial climate scoms to obtain at Luke Tatla, and I may bore remark
that, in my opinion, the most fitting area for settlement or agiiculture seen during
! the season is in the trough of the Driftwood River and Lakes Tatla, Trembleur and
Stewart, where a considerable extent of fino land is to be found in spots. I have no
doubt that thei-e are also a few favorable localities on Lake Babine, as there are in th*
vicinity of Hazelton and Kyspyox, but elsewhere, with scarcely any exception, the
j country is of too elevated ana mountainous a character to be at all fit for agriculture.
1 have the honor to be. Sir,
Your most obedient iervant,
C. HOEETZKY.
ISa.vcford Flbmino, Esq.,
Engineer-in-Chief, Canadian Pacific Railway,
Ottawa.
lii^^'
!(',:
f Lake Tatla, having:
T'
,4 i
89
APPENDIX No. 6.
if; i.
MEMOBANIHTM UEHARmNO A JOURNEY FROM VICTORIA, V.I., ACROHH NORTHERN BRITl'<Hi
COLU.MHIA, rul PEACE RIVER PASS, TO EDMONTON, BY THE REV. D. M. GORDON, B.D.
In company with Moshi-b. Cambie and McLeo.l, ol' tho Canadian Pacific Railway'
burvey, and Dr. G. M. Dawson, of tho Geolo^rjcal Survey, tho writer left Victoria ma
Tuesday .Jrd Juno 1879 by «tca.ner " Ulympia," (sinco called tho "Prince^l
iiouiso ) commanded by Captain Lewis, wan is i-eyarded as tho most cxporionced ?
navigatof ol tho Canadian Pacific coast. 'i
Aflcr stoMining throuyh the Straits of llaro we passed northward between Vui..]
couver and he smaller islands that stud the Straits of Georgia, until, leaving thek
northern extromityot Vancouver, wo entered the series of channels that divide thel
mainNnd liorn the long succession ot islands which fringe the coast with Bcarcolv
uny iiue.Tuj) ion as iar as Alaska. This land-locked strip of ocean that stretcho.!
almost unbroken along our Pacific coast Irom San Juan to Port Simpson, is one ol'L
the raos singular water-ways in tho world. On tho western shores of Vancouver 1
and of the chain of islands lying to tho north tho waves of tho Pacific break with u«i
unceasing roll; but here, insid J the breastwork of islands, and between thorn and 1
the mainland the sea is commonly as smooth as a canal. It is deep enoutch for theli
largest man-ol-wur, oven within a short distance of the shore, and yet the tiniest I
sS'^!S/"r"M"f''.''^u''''"^I^ ""''*"•■• ■^"'" Pleasure-sailing this deep, smoothj
safe, spacious, land-locked channel, or series of channels, is probably without a rival f
^ow It broadens to a w.di:. of several mile.s, and again it narrows to a span of a few
hundrodyarJs, tho number of islands enabling one to shape his course over calm
water in almost any weather, while on every hand one is girt by varied and attrac
live scenery. J or commercial purposes, when the mines along the eastern seaboard
of Vancouver become more fully developed, and the coasting trade increases, the
va ue ot such water communication, possessing all the advantages of deep-sea navi-
gation, yet ])rotecled by a line of breakwaters from all the dangers of the sea, can
hardly bo ovor-ostimat«d. Only at two places is it exposed to the gales of the Pacifit
and there only to those from the west, viz., from the north end of Vancouver Island as
you round Cape Caution a distance of about thirty miles, and again for about ten
miles when pissing M.llbank Sound. At two places also, Dodd's Narrows, near the
entrance to Nanaimo, and at Seymour's Narrows, between Vancouver and Valdes
Islands, there is at certain conditions of the tide, a strong current, sometimes from
toui to cigi.t miles an hour, which might cause delay for two hours at the utmost to
ail ordinary steamer. For the rest there is no more difficulty than would bo met
with on a deep, unruffled lake. The discomfort to which the traveller along this
coast IS most exposed is the moist climate, which prevails when you pass beyond the
Ki '"f?i '"r'!"'"r',5Jf"''""^*'''- ^""' >'«'^ approaditho northern ex-'
tiemi y of that island its lofty hills, some of which are over seven thousand feet in I
height, int<Mcept the showers that drift landward from the Pacific, so that these fall
on the western s opes of the island. Hence the eastern coast from Victoria northward
enjoys a niost de ightful climate. But when you have passed Vancouver the islands
to the north no longer servo in the same degree to intercept the clouds. These roll
inland until they strike the lofty slopes of the Coast or Cascade range, which runJ
close to tho seaboard along Its whole length, and hence the northern part of the coast
enjoys-or ra her endures-a much greater rainfall than either the east coast of!
Vaacouvcr Jsiand or the southern portion of the mainland.
8t
LOHH NORTHEHN BKITlxHl
V. I). M. GORDON, B.n.
nadiun Pacific Railwiiv
writei' loft Victoria m:
called tiio "Priuce->ii
tlio moHt cxporioncedi
rthward botwooQ Van.
?ia, unlil, leaving ilie
anneln that divide the
le coast with scarcelj'
ocean that 8trotchen
ort Simpson, is one of
nhores of Vancouver
Pacific break with an
id between thorn and
deep enough for the
e, and yet the tiniest I
ig tiiis deep, smooth, |
ibably without a rival.!
3WS to a span of a few
his course over calm
by varied and attrac-
the eastern seaboard
i; trade increases, the
iges of deep-sea navi'
angers of tlie sea, can
10 gales of the Pacitie,
)f Vancouver Island as
again for about ten
I's Narrows, near the
ancouvor and ValdeH
•rent, sometimes from
lours at the utmost to
y than would bo met
e traveller along this
I you pass beyond the
ich the northern ex-
ven thousand feet in
ific. so that these fall
m Victoria northward
'ancouver the islands
e clouds. These roll
e range, which runs
hern part of the coast
er the east coast of
Beyond the shelter of Vancuvor the weather became, as we had evnected
bcidedly moist. A drizzling rain .,bM-mc,i, Cor Iho time, our views „f wj./.t from'
ccasH.iia! glimpses, wo infenvd must he magniliccut scoiicrv. Wlion th„ |,,.,,|on
Mstwouldliftwecouldseelhe hills, MOW Imrc and p.oci pilous, n„w w.mhIcI and
lonmg, now t<.rront-.nrved and snow-capped, somotimcs like a wall of adamant
efyii.g the waves, and again cloit by deep narrow tionl.. or gorges
On Thursday about noon, we r.>aehed Port Essington at the n.o.ill, of (ho .Skoona
.l.stance ol about 4o0 miles from Victoria. The village consists of some (ifioen or
von y houses the best o which is occupied by thosoliiaiy white tradorof the i.lace
: others by Indians The chiei sta,,lo of trade, which is also the chief artiJle of"
M, IS salmon, for hero as elsewhere along the coast, salmon is found in extra-
^■dinary abundance, and during the fishing season there is a ready market for thcni
^ the smal cannery, a little north of this, known as Wiilaclach, called also W( o
pck s Landing, or Jnvernoss. There is very little land in the vicinity fit forcultiv
the country being for the most part rugged and mountainous; hut there arc
Kcellont cedar forests dose at hand, a fact that induced an enterprising firm to bu Id
steamer he.e some years ago, as it was possible lo bring the engines, &c., here
lore easily than cedar could be conveyed to Victoria, but the price of labour n a do
bo venture a co8;ly and unsuccessful one.
For some distance from the mouth of the river the clear sea-water is discoloured
■the dark waters of the Skecna; indeed, the river seems to push back the sea
Ither than to blend vyith it, for although there are the u.iual tidal variations, cxi.osin.'
I low water a rough beach in front of the village, yet the water near thJ shore it
[most perfectly fresh, and IS constantly used for cooking an.l other domestic pur-
bses. The largo bay that receives the waters of the river affords good anchorage
btitcanno bo called a good harbour, for not only is the access from the s^ea
Imewhat intricate but during the winter sean^n it is blocked with ice brouL'htdowii
b the fekeena. Adjacent islands prevent the waters of the Pacific from havhi-r much
, upon the bay, except in the rise and fall of the tide, and as it receives the
aters of a large river that in winter are ice cold, and frequently blocked with ico
bes, this bay unlike the great majority of the bays on the L^aciHc coast, is ice-bound
li" a part of the year. '
From Port Essington wo steamed on to Port Simpson, about 50 miles further north
iitingon our way the Indian village of Metlahkailah, in order to secure ciews and'
Inoes for our journey up the Skecna. Metlahkatlah i. chiefly known i hrou-h the iv-
larkable mission established here, in connection with the Church of I'hialund bv Mr
rm. Duncan Other missions to the Indians, both Protestant an.l Roman C^itholicrexist
pritish Columbia, but it is no disparagement to them to say that i.ciio ofihom have
toved so successful as the mission at Metlahkatlah. The J'sim,, scans, as the Indians
r that district are called, were at the time when Jlr. Dunc.n came aniMi-r them
Iventeen years ago as fierce, turbulent, and unchaste as any of the other .oasr tribes'
6t excepting the Haidahs ; whereas now the chastity of the women, the sobriety
bd steady industry of the men, the thrift and cleanliness of all render their sottle-
jenl the equal, in these respects, of almost any jdace of the same size in the eastern
rovinces. Mr. Duncan desired from the first to draw in the Indians from scattered
Btncts along the coast to one centre, a plan which might work well in this quarter
here the Indians live chiefly by fishing, although it could not be crrried out in tho
■me way among tho Indians of the woods or of the prairies, who live chiefly by
pining, lie chose as the centre of operations tho little Indian villas of Metlah-
Itiati where at; that time about fifty persons were living, and he has already gathered
found him Indians from adjacent districts to tho number of about a thousand upon
Qom fie has been able to exert a strong and steady influence. Ue learned their
pguage made it a written language, and now teaches it to them grammaticallv
iile instructing them also in English. He learned several tmdcs that he might
Ptruet them, and sent son o of them to Victoria to learn trades that they mi^ht in turn
Icomo artisan teachers. Tho fruits of their labour, beyond what are required for
|eir own maintenance and comfor- -o exchanged for such commodities in the way
il
86
ll I
of clothing, pi-ovinion, etc., an they cun procuio from Victoria, and thowo are fiirniHh^
at an oxcollont hlion in tlio villtigo, which, un<ior tho nuHHJonury'H .liroction, is niaP
aged by Indian cloilw. A hir^'c and beiiufihil churdi, a commodious Hciiool-hoiiJ
an oxtoimivo trading htoro. eomtbrtablo dwellingH, u 8aw-mili, and numoroui, woif
h lopn arc among t!io oulwiird and viHiiilo ovidoncos of tho .succo.-<m of tlio missi'
\\o engaged two crowa here, and found thorn to bo excoliont fellows, active, hoii..;
«nd kindly; they wore acciiHtoined each evening to have prayers in their own Ir
K'luge, and the man who led their devotions wa.s the bravost, bo.st- tempo red an
iiMmt nkilful boatman of llieni all. '
On account of our dolay at I'ort Essington and Metlahkntlah, we did not ent-
the harbour of Port Sim])son till daybreak on Friday, tho 7th.
I'ort bimpHon m a small village that ban gathered around an old lIiidMon'H^Bay CdrJ
from which il is Humetimo called Fort Simpion), and is occupied aimnl
• i! I ' "" " ■" '"""^•-■""^ <-"in->« -iiii I, oiiii|)iuii;, iiiiu IS Decupieii aim
entirely by IndianH. Tho harbour is mo.st favourably .situated. Kasy of accosMforst,:i
navigation, through tho channel by which we entered it from tho south, it is easy ola
ceH8 lor sailing ships or wtoamors approaching from tho west, through Dixon Strait.
that separate tho Queen Chniiutte Islands from Alaska; and it is as safeas it isaccessjh'^
l-acing tho west it has two ajipro.iche.s—Dodd Passage, between tho soiUh-wcMo '
extremity of (he harbour and a reef of rocks, and fnskip Passage, which soparai
thiH reef of rocks on its northern side from liirnie I.-land. Between Birnie Island ai
the norihern e.xtremity of the harbour, there is a choked paasage not rit for at
uavigalion, save that of canoes or other light craft. This reef of rocks, though hiddt
at high tide, is traceable at low water on account of tho kelp attached to it, and
serves as a partial breakwater for any sea that might roll in from tho Pacific, wh
-Birnio Island completes the protection of tho harbour on the western side. T!
extent of tho harbour may be set down at not loss than three miles in length, witiu
average breadth of nearly one mile. Itsonly cxposni e is to tho west, especially throu-
the approach known as Inskij. Passage, but no severe gales ever visit it "from tli,
quartor. '"'inlaysoii Island and the iJundas Islands protect it to the Bouth-wost ar
Houth, while any gales from tho north-east, east or .south-east (tho prevailing quart
lor high winds in this locality) can scarcely have any influence on its waters, as it i.'^
well defended on tlicso sides by the high surrounding land. Tho anchora^o
reported by Captain Lewis to be excellent. °
From Port Simp.Mjn wo visited Work Channel, an inlet of 32 miles in lenm'
which runs from Capo Maskelyno, five miles north of Port Simpson, in a souther
direction, making a peninsula, known as the Tsimpsean Ponisula, of an avera*
breadth of twelve miles, from near the mouth of the Skoona to Cape Maskelya
Ihis channel has never been fully surveyed. It seems to be similar to many otiiei
of the deep inlets, that run into the mountains along this coast and that have oftt
been likened to the fiords of Norway. The north-easterly bank is more procipito
than the other, the hills rising for the most part very steep and abrupt from t
waters edge, and although almost uniformly covered with a growth of small cedi
^--ot when occasional snow-slides or perpendicular bluffs disclosed their roct
character, it became a matter of surprise how anything could grow upon the;
fturlaco. About 22 miles from tho entrance tho north-eastern bank is cut throui
by a narrow fiord called Quatoon Inlet, where tho bare rocks seemed to yawn'i
oi-der to allow a glimp.se of some snow-capped summits and rugged cliffs, moi
imposing than tho scenery at any other part of the channel. At the head or scut
eastern oxtiemity of the channel a stream enters from the south ; up the valley (
this stream thei e is a pass at low altitude, connecting, by a few miles. Work Chanii
with the River Skeena.
The south-westerly bank is not marked by hills of the same precipitous characM
as those on the other side, except for two or three miles from a point opposite Quatfti
Inlet, tovvards the head of the channel. Here the descent to the water's edge is vei^
abrupt, although, even here, there is an almost unbroken growth of small cedar wi:
occasional patches of cotton wood in the rifts between tho hills, as fully advanced
Jeaf, at tho time of our visit, as tho Cottonwood trees near Victoria. For the n
8!)
thoHioposulonff tho ...uth-wostorn bank :yo sontlo. a...! fro.,uonlly torm-nato in a
M^om- l.o..el, ot sM.ra, eoi.s„lonil,l„ wi,lth, ub„„t forty (bet alv.vo I.i4 waU
As wo wt.m roturnm^c t'> Port Simpson, a.ul wl.on half-way .lowi. Work Chai.nol
theclmzhnj^rau. wh.h hu.l fall.,, n.oro or les, .tea.lily .inc^Vo.lnol.lay n. nZ '
m.>t.d the Hou.ls broUo away, tho «ky j^row dear, an,l tho day be.-ana. bri.r a Zfrl
ana. KnKi.sl.SIay.day. Sloa,nin« aroun,l Capo Muskolyno, wo could hoo a o Mh^
.■o,H of Alaska for many ,,,,1.., u„.i „« wo turnod south and passod Port Sin so 7 o
harbour an.i a. snrrouu.lm^.« app,,,ed much moro attrmail-o that. Ih^ . u ,^
the d.sa<,reoab)o dnz. o the mornini,^ Tho nea was calm, and a» tho aflo oo w , »
on, the day «,nt.nuod bright, while wo hold on our couI-ho for Port K si, Z. U
.eomed as ,f this nortl.ornaio.st j.ortion of tho Pacidc coast was as fair and favou abl o
.n rogard to s.onory and Hm.ato, as tho coa, t of Vancouvor, or of tho s outhon o S
t.on ot tho mam and ; and yot tho testimony of all wh..m wi mot, capable f.k'n^
ovuionco tonds to prove t..a. the climate here is exceedingly moist M D nca , ff
Oc obor to Aprd an.l found that only an average of seven days per month were fS
and after a residence of seventeen years in this locality, ho thinks tl a Ids is a
.•eliabo proportion for that part of tho year, l,ut thi.t the -proportion wo weUho,^
during tfie remaining months, ,s not so large. During one season, in which ho wh
teaching night school, it was necessary for him, each evening, to car y a I "iS
lamp from his house a few steps from the school; and he obsor -0.1 tlnUfor t vent,?
one consecutive nights, he rciuired to carry an umbrella over tho lamp o nr.Mcct it
from iho rain Mr. A. McAlistor, who built a steamer at Port Essing ton i to |
gent and reliable witness, says that sometimes in July there is f5no wo-alor bu tlitl e
during tho rest of tho year. Capt. Lewis, and residents at PortSimpr^n g h'c mih?
reports and yo from our own exporionco of what is accepted as '• we " woat o. 11
hS in:7that" wbici:''"'"'^ '""'• '"^ '"^''"•■"^"" ""^ ^^-1-"' ^'''-l^. -iti' eioudy
At unv .LI vkT i""*; "-^P"'''""^'^^** ••^« "ft«" on tho west coast of Scotland
Ihealtlp one, ,f we mayjuiigo from tho fresh and vigorous appearance of tho pconlo ■
mrts olTho PnSc "'T"^' ^'"'^ ^'^ ^'''''^ "«^ more seveii than in tho LlCn
I C , A ^ "•■ ^ '^'^ "'" "'"' """''y *'-eq"ont, not much more so than at tho
2 f.?Hh°i " fh""" "* *^''"''^"'' ''^'^' ♦''^''^""^'^ ^•"•^'^^^ f''«"^ bush fires, of h cS
at .at Zmrv .,'";''■''' "' ^'*'" "' ''''«.""''. i;"''^ ^'"^P^""- ^^^^ 'Attempts are made
la.gaiacniiig, \egcL.iOles are grown with fair success, ospeciallv potatoes but thu
blllZ ^ '''••? ?.'■ '"" '""■■:' P"''^ ^''^^y' ^^'^"° ^■"'•''^'^•- '-•" tho s^ho i's rock ■!
inri h, r^?h-UT ' '^Vi^'^'^i"'^'' «f 'I i'^^^ occasional patches it is said to be uttei- y
IcI^bn. / h! 1 ir; ^i'"''*^ '^"^'""^' '■''"' of limber, particularly red and yellow
U^w t^ I l-ln '^ r '?r '■'''"'' ^''■"^'' "^'"'^ «^'<^"™t^-. eypres^), and some trees
IsaZ or Lw^'T .' ^'!' *^,'"^; "? "°^ '""'••' '''^'^ *^^^«Pt ^y tho Indians for producing
llZL I ''°'""'^' •" '''';"'' thoy generally build their houses, or for mJcir... thoi7-
Bovond Tl i'« :h'"'" '•""'''^' '"^" *'^' ^^"^'"■' ^"" ^-^t '"'<i shaped to'tho required mS
lieyond his there is at present no market for this timber, which appears to bo tho
Kia/linf •":f"^^«'.[ho soil in this p:.rt of tho Piwince, thi 'wJiltl. of th:
l«.h„i V ° ™*''er in its extensive fisheries of seal, soa-ottor, salmon, halibut
Iwhale herring' etc. There are very few settlements, and'few inducomcnTs for settlori
■uno wtiolo country seemed to bo wrapped in silence, with scarcely a si«n of life
r.,) in1o'!'^mi '^"''"""■f""i"g establishments or a few Indian villages that have grown'
ISTJrt of r^ Hhootingor fishing, or that have clustered around
line posts ot the Hudson s Bay Company,
lskoc)i^a^o^';h^'"p '?"•''"«'«" «" the 7th Juno, our proposed route being up the
Tu r , . ^'^''^''> 'honeo across the country, to Bablno, up Lake Babino
femsMth.^T""';"^""^.^^'""^-^' '^' <=e"t.'alVdson's BayTost of northo a'
Cn * i°l^"^^"^' /'. "^ *'^''t St. James we would follow the trail to Kbrt McLoo.l.
snn tiicace proceed i.y bout, canoe or raft, down Peace liiver through tho
m
f
I
I
M
Jtoclfv MoiuitaiiiM to Duiivo-'an, luul, uflor siu'tid
IK'iidin;,' BDino 'imo in tlio i'euco llivor
if =
counlij, hurry oiislwanl by way oi' Kdmontoii to \Viiiiii|)Oi,'.
By .)(< orvalioii* inatlo in part hy inicroinotor ami in part by tnw^k Hur'
dihtancc from Port Ki-^ington to tlio viilago of llazoltc.n, liol.tor It
voy, the
of Slioona, or by its Julian nanio Kitiinniax, is IfiO inikw; tl
lit loasl. anproxiniat.jly coiTcct. Tlio allitude of lla/.lolon abovo tl
%
nowii as I ho Fori
li^ may bo roganloil un,
i'cot. Ordiiij'ry tido -valer roaciio-, about 22 miles abovo I'oi t Kssinirt
10 Moa Im about 65(i
«ro felt Movoral inilos fiiilhor
lyton ; npriiig tido
_ Tlio luriorit In always strong' abovo tido mark, and somotinios vory rapid, ih iv
l)oing Mjaixcly any roachos of calm water, ho that '• poliiiL'" and " truckin ■' ' a/o Ur-t
quently roquirod. " ■
For .somo distance from tho mouth of tho rivor. Hay 50 milos, the bank,< on b .th
Bidos aro stoop, soinolimos almost prooipitous, but alon>,' tho yroator ji irt of this dih
tanoo, ospocially on tho northern or right bank of tho rivor, llioio 'mm- ;., flat or low
lienoh of varying width, while at the same time tho rivor is so shallow near tho shore
Jis to admit of poling almost without intorniption. Whon tho tido is out tho boadi
IS oxpovedior 11 considerable width along the lower portion of the rivor. On the s
bliill-, and high hills, visible from tho rivor, tho ellbcts of snow-slidos and land-slides 1
may occasionally bo observed, coming in a few instancoH oven to tho water's od--o "
n IHlit; (ho ,,tcamor Mumford ascended the Skoona about 70 miles, to a poini J
a Iittio abovo the village of KilHumgalluin. This point is regarded as tho head oi I
hteain navigation, as any navigable btretehes of water abovo this aro interrupted by '^
heavy rapids The Mumford was employed by tho Western Union Tologranh
tompany of the Lnitod States to convoy Hup))lies for tho men who wore engaged ons
Ibo lino that had boon projected through part of Uritinb Columbia. Thi.t company
«onunonced explorations in 18(i5, with a view towards tho construction of an ove -I
Jaiid toK'gr.aph, which, l-j way of Bohring Straits, was to unite the Old and New!
\\ oilds, but alter tbc exponditiire of throe millions of dollars the scheme was abaii-
« loncd owing to tho huccos.-: of tho Atlantic cable. For about 80 miles from tho coast
the .Skoona IS dot tod with islands that have boon formed by rich alluvial doposit^l
born." down hy the ntreain, and that are now covered by a luxuriuntgrowth of timber i
■chiefly of cotton wood, while tho banks of the river are fringed in many parts byi
Hats that are also .lonsoly wooded. In some instances tho islands are ho near the
shoie that tho chjinncl between them and the bank might, if any good purpose worej
to be survod by it, such as tho reclamation of land, bo vory easily tilloil and tho water I
diverted int) tho mam channel. As the rivor cuts its way through tho Cascade
.hange, which is here more Alpine in character than the range of the lliicky Mountain*
111 the same parallel, we wore frequently in the midst of wild and attractive accnery.
Iho hill.s are lofty, serrated, wnow-cappod ; Homotimes wecould see a glacier, enclosed
in a 8liell-shai)od valley and surrounded by an amphitheatre of peaks ; while the
wooded islands and flats, in their varied shad v: .>r ..icec. form a pie wing fore"-round
lor every view. ' j o o
Occasionally wo passed an Indian villagr, .. '-.n ..., ..- a few riiuu houses made ol
rough cedar boards. Each house accomraoc; iU - iwo or more families, and in some ot
tho villages each house is adorned by a curiously carved door-post. Tho tigurea in-
geniously cut upon these door-posts are supposed to bo tho heraldic bearings of the
famiy, but to the uninitiated the heraldry of those Indiana is as mysterious as the
heraldry of the English nobility. Frogs, boars, boavors, whales, salmon, seals, eagles,
men, somotimos men tapering into fish like the fabulous merman, aro tho figures most
Ircquontly soon. Several of these may be found on each post, tho post being about
thwtv loot high, and two foot in diameter at tho base. In many cases more labour
IS- -xpondod on this post than upon all the rest of tho house ; sometimes it is large!
';nough to a :■ it of a hole being cut through it sufficient to serve as a doorway, and'
^1 this casi the opening is usually by some quaint conceit made to represent the|
mouth of one of tho carved figures ; frequently, however, it is quite distinct from the
house, standing in front of it like n flagstaff. Not far from the villaLre mav iiHuallv'
too toand a little graveyard with carved and painted monuments, but vory often th'ei
hh
grnuiK
reniaii
whi( b
N
here al
•inlmoM
stt
Hiilmoii
tlio nal
as of tl
taken i
of food
Ac
the bar
invarin
Th
valley (
marked
into tl;
Homr'wl
the Nai
Skeona,
Inlet.
Columb
level of
Columb
sea), tl
chain o
jappenra
ISkcona
Thi
land the
he isla
luporior
irch an
lerrios,
I'oao, col
Tho
iho islan
lart fun
bovo K
latcaux
loam, CO'
'horovei
iver sidi
he Fork
Imost CI
irect lin
'he distr
ut of th(
^rks th(
here is b
fairly till
.Iready r
91
mo in tijo Peiico llivorj
•t by ti'iu'k Hui'vov. the
r known as llio Fork*
M Miiiy bo i'i)Ki'i''loil UN,j
vo llio sou in about 65(1 j
•iHsinyton ; wprin^j tiilr
tinios very rapid, tb ic
nil " truckiii'; ' am frc
loM, tho bivnk.i on b )th|
•oator ji irt of tbis ilih
iioio •■i\i\-: ii, flat or low,
sbaiiuw near tbu shore
i) ticio JH on I tbo boachl
of tlio rivor. On thd
f-sli'los ami lami-slidusl
to tlio wutor'.i odf^o.
It 70 niilos, to a point I
yarded an tlio iioad oi ;
liis aro intorrnptod bv
rn Union ToleyrajA
who woi'o onj^agcd on
ml)ia. Tbi.t company
istrtiction of an ovc-
to tlio Old and Now
the ssobonio was abaii- i
J milo.s from tbo coast ;|i
rich alluvial dopositu,
■iant growth of timborj
igcd in many parts bjl
ands aro mo iioar the
iiy good purpose were
ly tilled and the water
' tbrniigh tho Cascadoi
' tho llocky Mountain*!
.nd attractive Hconory.j
see a glacier, onclobedl
of poakH ; whilo thel
It pie '.iing foreground j
7 ru>u! Ijousos made oil
milie.s, and in some oil
post. Tbo figures in!
raldic bearings of thel
1 as mysterious as thel
1, salmon, seals, eaglesT
n, aro tbo figures mo8t|
tho post being abouil
ly cases more labourj
sometimes it is largel
ve as a doorway, andl
ade to represent thel
[uite distinct from thel
1 villai/o may usiiallvl
ts, but very often i
grave of tbo Indian is separuiod from flu, .mmvom of his kl.wmAn „«.! •
marko I by bis (Mi.oo or liH irun „,. :„ A,,"' , .V '" "'^ "I'l^ "on, ami m rornmonly
ofbiHbo^,bisown,vmiliiii:^i;' .'^' 3^
l„.',.i.n<l M,.,„.,n„w.u :... 1 .. .. " , "^'V" ""'""'!' '"'x, biiil -^oinotimo upon tho
' J
which is Id, exposed ncai^bi'^lllJll'.'J'lll-^t ;.ilh::'''' "''"^ ""'"^ '""■'"' '" " ^''^
iieroS:.';!;" mlidio":^ jnlir;;:;:.!;::';;,;::; ::sri 'y 'i^'^T' ^ ■'•• '^^ '^-^ "--«
.ilmon being abundant in tl o S o!ui a ni. , " "'"'^^^^^^^^ "'"^
:l,e s,a,do alniostMbe c.xcli.h'r:^;';;;';; S' rjlifiSll^^ ''^umbia i.
Hiilmon tai H, as It hiih Humolimcs (Ini).. ti„.,i;f,.. " "'o '■"t' inaiaiis. \\ hen tho
the natives sol.lom .-uiso ^ny Ind o ' vo ^ta 0" L"" ! n^^^^ ^"''^ ''"•'-'"•• "^'•
as of the iiooplo, being advorso to ,uri.u^te^V ?n /*/''' '■""""'>'• ''■' ^^'^
taken in the or.linaiy abundance a"m' mav in Yn s '. '"'^"'■' ''"■ '"''""" '"' ''«
of food for tho year ' ^ '" '°'" "'•'"' " '"""t'' '">• i" his siij.ply
the i:^nk:;';;;:SiXXu^ir™n>?;:: iir "^ "i--- - «- '^'-«
invambly whore sued? flats ,^e no! n:;:/, '£'1 .ifilo^i ^St t wii; uTi; ^r!^
The mountainH between tbo cmwt linn „,„i .1 r 1 1 VrS, ^^"'"^ l''0 water.
valley of tho Skeeiia ul,or?5 .niir/rJm C fc^ ValL y, which joins tho
er
Columbia; it cannot properly bo^^allod a valC"hnt' if"^ P"f"«hed map of H.-itish
u.perior si.o an.l quality, cedar an<l aspen a£„" an<l 1 "s f oZn V B "b s "■ "
)irch and mountain ash. Tbo flats are usu-iilv ri, h «lf .; "^.1"*^"^'^ "'• ^''"^ pme,
.erries. raspberries, gooseberries an.rwitragfoa^itvK '"'' 1 ""''T
•ose columbine, linoa, violet, anemone. saxiS o'tc ^ '''' ' "'^ "' '^^
the istiV dSu'te LTo'arnat.^ '^^^ ^-' -•*-^''-. ««
part furnish little m,." th^^rocSSfon 'j^a cd s' u^ilabl for/b'^" '""'.l^'V '"^^ ^'"«
Mrly tilled field, and for ^mn/dJatanL'-^^'^^.d i"'- ' f ^'""■" ."'"^ •^'''^•'^'•"'
Mready referred to Whoaf"h7« nnr^nf'i 'Tn ^'■'' .P^^^-caux .Miuilar to those
y eieuea to. Wheat has not yet been successfully cultivated in the ncighbour-
V'
f t
i}
I
92
hood, but exeellont crops of oatn and potatoes are raised hero. Probably this part
of the country may compare favourably in respect to agricultural resources witii
many of the restricted cultivated parts of British Columbia, but as yet there has
been very little done here by whites in the way of agriculture, and the small potato
patches of the Indians do not suppl}' sufficient data to warrant any decided opinion.
The climate of the Skeena Valley is by no means as favourable as that of the
southern part of the province, }-ei much better than its latitude might lead one
to expect. During the time occuj)ied in our journey from Port Essington to
the Forks (from Satui'day, 7th Juno, till Saturday, 21st Juno, both days inclusive) we
had most enjoyable weather. On four days, the 11th, 12th, Ib'th and 20th, we
had slight rain ; for the remainder, although the sky was often overcast, the weather
was uniformly fine. Those resident near the coast report that in the vicinity of
Port Essington there is a large proportion of wet weather, but after passing through
the first range of mountains (which if not a separate range are u separate portion of
the Cascade range, divided from the larger mountains of the interior portion of this
range by the depression already referred to passing along the Lakelse Valley), the
weather is much less moist. The snow-tall near the coast is heavy, averaging on the
level, in some seasons seven or eight feet, so far as could be ascoriained, but diminish-
ing toward the interior and not exceeding two feet at the Forks. Horses have been
wintered out here, although it was necessary to shovel away a quantity of snow in
order that they might be able to crop the grass beneath, lint although the snow-
fall at the Forks is light, the cjld is seveie, frequently falling to 30° below zero and
Bometimes much lower, while the thermometer rises in summer to 90° in the shade,
and sometimes higher, a variation of temperature not unlike that of some parts of |
Eastern Ontario and Quebec, but much greater than that of the southern parts of !
British Columbia. Near the coast the temperature is much more equable.
On our way from Port Essington to the Forks we found that the minimum at
night ranged from 37.5° to 50°, the average minimum for the 15 nights being 43.tJ6°,
while at 6 p.m. the temperature ranged from 40° to 63°.
No gold has yet been found along the banks of the Skeena further than the I
" colour" of gohl, which maj' be found in the sand of this, as of almost every other
river in British Columbia, Near Kitzigeuchlah, about 12 miles below the Forks, we
observed a vein of carbonaceous slate, with a small proportion of true coal, and coal j
has been found on the Watsonquah — which joins the Skeena at the Forks — about 20 j
miles from the Forks. Further examination may prove the existence of some valuable
coal measures in this vicinity.
There are scarcely any white men living in the valley of the Skeena, there I
being only three white families at the Forks and one at Port Essington, with none
between. The Indian population at the scattered villages along the river is very
email, probably not more than 500, although at the Forks there are about 250 and|
at Achwilgot (three miles distant) 450, while the Indians at Kispyox, further up the j
stream, are numerous. For a time the "Forks" was looked on as a promising
village, it being the point from which a largo proportion of supplies wore portaged
to the mining district of Omonica. Had the mino« turned out as well as was at first I
expected, the promise of the growth and importance of the village might have been]
realized, but the Cassiar gold fields drew away the miners; the Onienica district
was found to be scarcely worth working, and although there are still about 60 whit*
men and 20 Chinamen there, yet they are meeting with little success and the mines
of that region will probably be abandoned ere long.
Many of the Indians of this and other parts of the interior are still pagan,
although an increasing number are Christians. '1 hey all seem peaceable and well- 1
disposed, and although at times they are apt to charge oxoi'bitant prices for their I
labour and to take advantage of any difficulty in which their employer may be!
placed, and to desert him if ho does not accede to their terms, yet as they ar«j
gradually brought undt." Christianizing and civilizing influences, they may equal the '
Indians of the coast and of the southern parts of the province in settled industry, a*
-they equal, if they do not excel thorn in natural ability.
93
Probably this part
tural rcHOurces with
it as yot thoi'c has
and tho small potato
any decided opinion,
irablo as that of the
tudo might lead ono
1 Port Essington to
th days inclusive) we
, Kjtii and 20Lh, we
overcast, the weather
it in the vicinity of
after passing through
a separate portion of
erior portion of this
Lakelse Valley), tho
vvy, averaging on the
sriained, buldiminish-
s. Horses have been
a quantity of snow in
ut although tho snow-
30° below zero and
' to DO'' in the shade,
hat of some parts of |
ic southern parts of i
re equable,
lat the minimum at
J nights being 43.1)6°,
jna further than the |
f almost every other
below tho Forks, we |
)f true coal, and coal
the Forks— about 20
tence of some valuable
if tlie Skoena, there j
Essington, with none j
g tho river is very
> are about 250 and i
spyox, further up tho j
on as a promising
)plies wore portaged
IS well as was at lir.st |
ago might have been
the Omenica district I
e still about 60 whit«(
iccess and the mines |
rior are still pagan,
peaceable and well-
jitant prices for theii"
ir employer may bej
ns, yet us they ai'«|
3, they may equal the j
n settled industry, a»|
There is as yet no waggon road from the Forks of Skeena to the interior but an
icelent trail, good enough for a mule train, leads to Lake Habine Tu\l l- ■
.a.on the only road leading from the Skeena by Babh.e lie Fryin 'p 'p.'r
like Tatla and tho tributaries of the Omenica liivm tn.i. r» J^.-'ni'iSN
d. 200 miles from the Forks, and as the XrH^l r^:'u. i " isVr'ict'roVtt
ast IS the more expensive one of tho waggon roa^l along the Fr isc R vo,- n,?^ Ihl
.d from Quesnel, this trail from the Skeena :is the highway lb;^ good Seal' o?
We left the Forks on Monday ,23rd June, with a nack ti-.ln «f t„ i-
ilos are kept at the village. A trail led n's^tom-e'Sh plateau n rr',!? th',
llage rom which wo had excellent views of the Nilddii-aw-alh o, Rn,. I.o n
buntain so called from a broken mass of rock at ils b-t^I i t » •t^'boule,
ksonquah) that rises about 6,600 feet above the sc'^ '" '""^'''" "^ *^"
About 2J miles from the Forks we struck the old telegraph trail which rnn,
bough the. valley of the Watsonquah, to Fort Stager about 40 mles -E^^^
Li cut (ov the purpose of forwarding supplies i,^ connectio w , t telt ranS linf
lit had been projected and afterwards abandoned by the Woste. , Tnlnn T t*^ u
iich flows into the Watsonquah a little above tho innr. inn , f li f • -T , '
eena,passingoverlowrolling\illHthata.esq^^^^^^^^^
wild and picturesque streams. On the bank if one of'^^E s'eam ^'w; t id'i^li
barbonaceous shale, in which a small quantity of coal could ho < ..tor.LTnni. k •
rionof the possibility of finding coal'measiifes i.^ thi'^u tot' he .oun^r^
^ there we saw small patches that might be cultivated, and the hil s S' where
ired of timber, abound n pea-vine wild L^r^iss -in,! hn^h,w ..rtv. • '^'"P"'^'. whoie
bsent condition, pasture for Inules o'^ cl t.^'?! :'^iu:;'',5>UH"C;?il?hnwn '^"'
^ as nch as the valley of the Watsonquah ; there tl t-i « is Si^^Z]la
,with the exception of that and of the land which we saw am, nH i J # i '
re IS very little in this vicinity that is lit for setSm ntaidev en ofth- portion'
^ cannot yet speak with confidence on account of the limits?) fF 7 P™"
/ofcultivation. and the probable climatic dtSculties '"'^ '^'''''' "^ '^^
After a few miles the trail leaves tho valley of tho Su^omh nn,i i„n i .l
[ley of a tributary stream, the Oo-at.-an-li. As we a cen he view! llnl "'' ^^^
Ids along the course by which we had come, g^nv mr^i'm™ ti Uvf Tn
i opposite side of the river stands the Na-talt'sul, a cluster ofTjeLks the oftiest of
lich cannot be less than 7,000 or 8,000 feet in height, enclosingfsSlXS in tho
ll -shaped valley thai receives the snow and rivulets from their scan ed and ri^lo^
. of the Susquah, while the view is closed by the Eoohe Deboule^ that sfmds^maK
) and compact, a sentinel of the Skeena. SomCimes the sceuer; bion^'oflirnt
bharacter, although it has not the sustained grandeur of the m.TulinTof sIT
bd Any one who from the Eighi, has seen the Oberland Alps, or f" m the G^rnm-
I has een the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and other summisn rsncnv 0^00^
V ','^"^«'^f'.^^''« Z«'-'"'^tt, will seek in vain for similar otfoc-ts amon ^oin-Ca^an
«-at leas in that northern portion which we wore traversin... Fa • heJ soutt
bg the valley of the Homathco, the Cascade Rani-e is said to be jrram er th in on
Skeena while the Rocky Mountains are much higher neai mxrS 1'n tun
Swil a7 '"■' "'^' '^'^ ^y^ ^'^^'•- ^^' '^"^ Cascades are less in es.ive^^h^^^^^
Swiss Alps, on account of the distance that divides thoir loftiest p^ks and 'lus
I, hey are not so closely grouped as their European rivals, and Ueyl so sti
Immdvr""''/'"'^"^^*''^ ^^'' ^'"^* the low ranges of interve Z li N Ire
Ke wfnd brlT; 1 St.* "^"^ ':™"'''V"^ ^ilV^^'-' -^^^^ has in part be'^en s t.wu
lloaoZri Iw . '. ^^^ ""''' l"'''^' "^ '•t'" Handing, blackened by tho flames
[2t:^^^^^^ ^""' ' I^'^^"- «f ^«-'^"-' -'tl>-t -blimey and"Tf
!'iT^f''^''^*^°.'TJ"/' between the Skeena and Lake Babine until th..
iofThaisauy, tne26th. Uu the way we observed a profusion of wild
In
is
1"
94
1^'"
flower.M, and on ilio opposite si^lo of the Ooatzanli, some small grassy moudows Til
summit is about 4,aii() foot above tiio soa level, or 3,850 above tiio Forks; but aljoj
, 750 foot bolow the summit, there is a small lake from which flow the waters of tj
Jr Ooatzanh westwards, and those of a stream that flows eastwards into Lal<o Bal.inl
The level of this laUe, which is about 3,100 feet above the Forks,and about 1, 'ifjO fd
above Lake Eabino, is really the lowest altitude of the pass. The distatico from tlil
to the Forks is about 3S miles, and to the meadow that frinyos Babino Lake abfil
ueven miles. '
There is a striking absence of life on these hills, except of insect life, for mosnsi
toes and I.' ick ilies are very abundant ; later on in the year boars and cariboo mlA
be found bore, but an occasional partridge is all the game to ba mot with at til
season.
Near the foot of the hill the frail crosses the stream that flows into Bal.i'.
from the small lake near the Kummit, and from this to the water's edge there iJ
meadow, fully half a mile in length, slightly wooded with groves of poi)lar arj
spruce, and rich with wild hay, vetches, &c. If the climate permitted, a good Uin
or at least good grazing land might be made of this meadow, but the climate seomv
ho too severe for farming, and the long winter, during which cattle would I'cquire t(
housed iind fed, would bo unfavourable for stock raising. Potatoes, oats ami barloil
however, are successfully cultivated around Babine Lake. i
Wo arrived at the lake on Friday, the 27th, but wore not able to leave until tJ
following Monday, as a strong wind, accomjianiod by occa,>-ioi.al sh.)wors, for a tinl
prevented us from venturing in the Cottonwood canoes which are the only method
oorveyance on the lakes of the interior.
During this delay wo were able not only to arrange for crows and canoos tolaJ
us to the head of the lake, but also to examine some of the surrounding count:
The lake discharges its waters info the Skeona by the Babine Eiver, v.'hich flows iiil
ijorth-westerly and westerly course. Wo could not follow it, but wo learned frnl
those familiar with it, that although its canyons are precipitious they are not vci
lofty, and that a winter trail runs along the benches that skirt the river. Near tl
Indian village, at the lower end of the lake, starts the trail to Lake Tatla, which lei
over low rolling hills eastward by the Frying Pan (or Fii-opan) Pass, through snot
olad ranges towards Omonica, about l.-iO miles from Babine. This district, like soil
other parts of Brit ish Columbia, was almost unknown, except to Indians and Hudsoiil
Bay Company officials, until it was explored by miners in search of gold. Gold J
discovered in Omonica in 1872, and for a time the new mines attracted a good <le:iL
attention ; supplies were required, Indians wore employed as porters, and times w<>^
brisk about Babine. But the glory has to a groat extfint departed, tho mines have ii
realized tho expectations formed regarding them, only a few of the eagar crowd a]
loft there now ; capitidists have not yet thought it worth while to be.'in niiiiiJ
crushing, and the wl do district seems to befalling back into the silence ami stil
uess of i'ormor years. 1
Indo|ioiidently, however, of the gold-bearing deposits, there is a possible souitl
of luturo wealth in the argentiferous galena ot this district. As yet, this ro"-ioii 11
not boon examined by any of the Geological Surveying Staff, but valuable siwcimJ
of this galena have boon found, and although under the proscntdifflcultios ofaccossl
Omonica, tho production of silver and lead would not be remunorativo, yotiffiui
ties for communication wore increased, there might perhaps bo a profital]
industry established here. Occasional indications, too, of coal, or at least of li^niJ
have been discovered through the northern part of the Province, in rock forinatincj
somewhat similar to those in which the coal fields of Vancouver Island are founl
Therefore, although tho prospects of successful farming are by no means as-'ooil ivs]
the southern part of the Province, or in tho Peace River District, yet there is snJ
slight gr(jund for the hope that a source of wealth may eventually bo opened up]
tho mineral resources of the district. '
\yo left the lower end of Lake Babine, on Monday, the 30th, and came that i
25 miios to Fort Babiuo, a Hudson's Bay post on the eastern side of tho lake. '
95
kko for this distance has an avora<'o wMUi orab.m -i mil,,- .k„ i i
leal of level and low-lyin^^S fVi .in he 1 -o Tl '" "■"'''^'' ."'T" ''^ " «"«^
[ides except snmll poplar a,ad ^ e^and the ith.U w "i T ""''"'; "'r^' '^*
l,dulatin. hills, give' ,!lace occasional^ to l^rge tfa ti rexceHenr:'. "T"''^ 'J
pero .1 not for the lofty summits that here and there streUhn-.r ^ f" '""I*
Icrease .u)t only its bla.avrtirks «!»;?, '"''' ""■"'^'•»"« i«l='"dH that
feat;;; -■r,»E:i £^.=-^'kii;f -'^' "™-- -- ^ s
I Oil Thursday, 3i'd July, we reached the head of the lake and ,.rn^^..,i . ,,..i
Ihe portage that connects it with Stewart's Lake about 7 milJ"di ^^ if ^ T''
On Saturday, 5th Julj-, wo sailed down Stewart's Lake in tho It.vn r.Pii.,, ir , i .
Buy Co., which had been sent from Fort St. Jan.es to meet s Tho 1 n 1 , !^ *
known as the Ye-koo-tcho, which flows into il,e u, pS S of Stew 's 1- f ''"''"'■
*ery near the streams that flow into Eabine T .i , (-.T , i''' ''"**^*
learly the same, about 2,200 feet ab ve fhe ea ■ b;^Bll no cliscl^ T? 'f'^"''™ "•^''^
|.e Skeena, while the waters of Stewart's Lake' flow hue ho F to?to, h "? 'T
foaching the Paciiic, but about 450 miles ap;rtTo\|.rS.irofsTew\w^^
lu'.e there is a chain or rather a net-work of lakes some of llSrH/
Iharge the.r waters by the Peace River into the Arctic '0^' and ^ me into
Z. ' by the Skeeua or the Fraser. Indeed, within a ringe o twenty
mlo , one can touch the waters of Lake Babine whichflow by the Ske^ena into S
[antic, the waters of Lake Tatia, which flow 'oy the FraseMn o i le i'JiS 4^0
Ues further south, and the upper waters of the On.enica, a tr buta y of the PeaS
tZ'Z"'''^'''""l''''''^'^':''^^ ""•^ «'"^" lake near^Fo t Cm;neny
Puuy oVffiir' '"' '"'' ' '"'^'"'^ "^"^'^ ^'^'^«""' ''' ^'- other i'tol
Around Fort St. James there is a good deal of cultivable land, .while immcdiatelv
i tlH rear of the Furt there is an excellegt garden with a good variety of S'etabff
liowth of wheat, althougii root crops, oats and barley are very succeifullv
titivated Potatoes are usually planted in the first or seci^ond we?k J
C'ot th 'a^i T'T ^«"P*^''f "'•« °f the summer seems to be noT unliie
t ,. •" ^^'""^"^ Provinces, but owing to its elevation above sea level even
Joro than to Us northern latitude, the country in this vicin tv il' JZ
homming ,n an agncultm-al point of view than some of the southern portions
tf he Province. Comparatively little, however, has as yet been done tKte"!
tv o H ^"^V^'^lt"';^' ^'^P'^bilities of this region. The successful cultivation if
fy, oats and vegetables at Hudson's Bay posts; the growth of good cattle at
Ehnd^H^'Vu"^ sometimes also on the firms of Indians, who a?e here greatfy
bhind the LiUooets and other Indians of southern British nAluml^in in i-lTZ-^I ^l^^
L wid'tf f"' "^^T^P' g«"t'y undulating land that fringo'the fakes,' fVequeftly t^
^0 width of several miles; the valleys and lull slopes covered with pea viSo wiS
1 ;-
t ■
Jff.jBl^llPmPf^'^
96
hay jind other excellent pasture ; those are the most fiivoiirahlo features of tW
country IVoin an agricultural point of view. But against tho-e, the suramoi- fro.stj|
and Inickwjinl soa-,onH incidental to the elevation above sea level must bo considered!
and yet, while this northern plateau, if it may be so called, that seems to correspondi
to the socilkil southern interior platouu, is not as promising as many -parts of the!
more lortilc Piovinccs of Canada are known to be, yet it may compare favourabul
with some of the cultivated )>art8 of the Province of Quebec. j
Fort St. Jjimcs is beautifully situated on a broad plateau, about 20 foot above thol
beach, at Uie lower end of Stewart's L:ike, which stretches its waters westwards
miles. It has a commanding outlook, with views of scenery that remind one greatlJ
of the Scottish Highlands. There are no snow-capped summits visible, but, Took ini
any direction you may, there isa backgiound of hills that in somo parts border onf
the lako, and in other parts are separated from it by wooded plaieaux' or by gontlvl
andulatingsiopes that enhance the varied beauty of the scenery, while, under thei
provaiiing westerly winds, the waters of the iako break upon the beach with tliel
musical monotone of the sea. |
We reached the Fort on the day on which, when leaving the coast, we tho'K'ht wel
might possibly do, if wo were favoured by weather and by absence of unforeseo"nacei|
dents. Tlie distance travelled had not beer, great, yot the dcla^-s and disappointJ
ments to which one is exposed in a country where means of communication are oil
the most primitive kind and where, as far as travel is concerned, almost overythin/;!
18 uncertain except the flight of time, made us particularly thankful for so prosporoul
a journey. Here we wore met by friends who had come up from Victoria, or ratherf
from Yale, by the groat highway which follows the valley of tho Frase'r throuL'lif
central BiiUsh Columbia. They were accompanied by a mulo-train laden wilJ
stores, etc. ; so at Fort St. James wo rested for a day to replenish and rearrange our|
supplies, to write letters to our friends in the oast, which would go by way of|
Victoria and San I'rancisco, and to prepare for the next stage of our journey, whiclif
wa to incliKle a rilowith a mule-train to FortMcLeod and avoyageby boat throuffbi
the Eocky Mountaii.s. borne onward by the broad waters of the Peace Eiver j
Wo loft Fort S'. James for Fort McLeod on Tuesday, 8th Jul^-, accompanied byl
the pack tram which had come up by the Fraser route, and which was to proceed bj|
way of Pine River Pass towards Dunvegan. The only route connecting thoso two!
forts IS a bridio-path, which leads sometimes over low hills, sometimes by thoman^iDf
of small lakes, sometimes ihrough thick woods or over treacherous swamps whoiel
we were frequently delayed by the necessity of "brushing" the trail, that is, ofl
laying large branches across the path, so as to afford some footing for our horseil
and for our packmulcs. About five miles from Fort St. James we passed tho trail!
which leads northward to Omonica, tho rival route to that by way of the SkeerJ
Babino and tho Frying Pan Pass for reaching tho Omenica gold fields. For aboul
ten miles from Stewai't's Lake our trail led through excellent pasture land the!
soil being generally rich, with clumps of aspen and spruce; then for about eii'htocDl
miles it passed through poor land, covered with firewood and burnt timber witll
occasional groves of black pine. ' f
_ Our progress was slow, for even en a good trail fifteen miles a day is consideredl
tair travelling, when each mule carries from two hundred to three hundred pounds-l
and the trail in this case was not uniformly good ; yet we found it for the most purt!
pleasant , oven aithoughsometimes tho woods were so thick that both hands weref
required to press aside the branches, which would otherwise strike tho face. Thel
profusion of wild flowers, the glimpses of stream or lakelet seen through the timber,!
the broad views caught from some rising ground which tho fire had cleared, the p»i
cession of riders, moving Indian file, now slowly and carefully over bog and rock orl
windfall, now breaking into a cantor whore tho trail permitted this freedom, combinoii|
to make this partof our journey different from all that had preceded it. I
On Thursday, after crossing Salmon Rivor, wo reached the heiirht of land bc-l
twoimS'i- wart's Lako and Lake McLeod. Taken by aneroid, (he
iJ,7uO fee. .ibovo sou lovol
ol, aui 500 foot ab>vo Fort St. J.nn
summit is .ibon'l
OS.
'iij viuw, in so f.i
91
nish and reai'ran<j;e ourf
; is not obscured b}- burnt timber, is of a rrentlv nn,l,il.,f!n„
lill.s of marked altitude beiny- the P,.„..'s < V. ? .1'"^'" ''''"^^ cn„,u.y, tiie only visible
llth.mgh the land boks as it i onr.aVt" ,,'"l ,;'''/'<"' ^''''^' '" ^'"«"'''=«-
jeval.on above sca-Iovei and its 0^^] su r, . " 1^°/^ (or agriculture, yet it.
fntitfor any.bin, but pasturag S Zni:'Z'^'tf '^P^^^^^'^^'^y '•-''-• it
. >rded a.s the maximum limit'of the cS iv.blo ami i! 'f -VT'^^ f'^"?."">' ^"
>bie lands above that level, such as those in h. '\^"^"'.^\ <-olumbia ; any
iamos, being exceptional; and l^ard u^ v L es ^vo " mTi "'" V'^'""-^, ''^' ^''^''^ ^'■
low culiivated in the Province vvo. Id bVv,h^.. l >.'''' •''"'^ "^''"^''^''^ ^''"" those
D.rhK.U.d throughout this nor.E ' o rt . of tl h p'i' ''"'"" '""'^' ^^" '"'•^'"^''''^^
(liKitod localities. Indoe.l the a-ric. ?...«. ^ "^'"^^^■' except in favoui'ably
. richest, mineral lands ad its ivahlli^^^^^^^^^ "' ^'■"'''' ?'^'»l>i'^. ^^ well a.
tbosouthern part of the Province ^o'-o^ts, seem to bo confined mainly
Although the highest land between Sir.n-.i,.t' . t r i at -r
ttle north-east of Salmon Rive yet thU s n ft n ""? '^Y'^f"!^ ^^"'^'^" '« ^^'""^'^
kkos. This is found s<,memil'es^(b.t ero In v 'n }? "1" > '^"'^'*^"" ^'>° ^^^^
h-o„d Salmon Kiver the land is sonl, 1 "'''" *^"''J' ^:"''''' '"^^ Long Lake.
h.hored, and the trail is flHentTrh 4 "^^^^^^^
^ raft, we found the trail iS 1 cdise ^^t's binlX'T "'"''"^ ^'""^^ ^^'^° »''
,eu for half a mile through the shaliiw w.tt o^" vt> .in TtheTi ""m^' "^"1
fins we passed a number oflargo hollows or Iv.^inJtl .7 P> ?■ : ^\ f^^yon.l
cooped out of the land. They are of mre^ent « - . TJ''''^' ''« '^ f'^T bad been
laryiug in width from 50 to 100 yards rm^L^^I^ u'T,^ 1"''''^ "''•^"''^'•' ^"^
leen built up around the ledgirtb^.n tllow do^, oVt'l".''! ^''?'''^\^' l^f^ ^''"'^ '^'^'''
Vmber in them shows that tty h, ^o lo ^1 ^^^i,?! 'I'J'l''^' 'V'^ ^1^''«"^''' tl"> burnt
tposed to the influence of water and mav r o,l f' ^i 1 ^''''" manifestly beoa
aorainedopositsofafarpastSiarDlMZf'^^ •?'.'''''" ^""' P™'^"^^^ by the
hroughout the Province. ^ ^ ""^'^'"'^^ rvciaent traces have been found
Botiveen Carp Lake and Long Lake wo nis^nd the. ,r -i .l .
taters Rowing into the Pacific from tl osoTha fl!.^ fl 7"^? ^^''* separates the
IrcticSea. Prom Long I^^ike an oxcelknt trZ f™"^"'?^^^*^ ^^iver into the
fiver, flows into McLeo^d Lake ; L de' cen s e y Srand^in "I'' "' ^°^' ^^'^«
Urfall of great be.uty, esti.natod at 130 fe tin \e?S A li'tth'fn'^fh"^''' ''-^
l-oquom Creek, near which there is ahi.nd.inr.n\^p\,„ f V" '„ " further ou la
I the course of which the tmilmsses ^el a heJS Z' TL\^'^ ?'^'' ^""''^^'^
fake, we reach Fort McLeod Havfn JvLL ^ t "^'^^ ^^'^^ «'^"^« McLeod
k n;,t reach Fort McLeod until ^^f the l^fth JuK Zwh^l'r '""l ''\'''
It. James being estimated at 70 miles ^' ^ ^^"^^ distance from Fort.
lacLeod Lake, with abundance of excellent mstu o of. T""^.^' *^' '°^T '^"'^ '^^
[ith a garden attached that seems capllorSin^aJvthfntr. '^^"""'^iS'"^"^
lecasional summer frosts. The-snow ill bete s hea^vie^ hLn^af F.^ .^^t'*^"**
^eragingaoout five feet; the lake usually fLVes about ti,^:^A,^%*-'^*- J"'?^^'
bd opens about the middle of Mav All thn trnffi! i . r. '^'^'^l^ °^ i^ovember,
liver passes this way, as the rontrfrom the Pn^^- "^'fu ^'''°° ^'^^''^^^ ^'■'i«er
I f
F
! V'-n
mmgm.
98
boat from tho Hudson s Bay Company, ot Fort lIcLood. Tho boat was talcon .loa-
the 1 nek Eivor to its junction with tho Parsnip, about 17 miles, then up the ParNni,
atjout ]J miles, in order to assist in ferrying across tho Parsnip tho supplies &n th'
were being convoyed by tho mule train towards Pine Eiver Pass. When' this w3
completed, the party that were to continue their journey by Pino River under tK
direction of Dr. G. M. Dawson, wore left on the north banic of the t^arsnin Tl.«
others pursued their course down the river. '
From the summit of the southern bank of tho Parsnip which, at tho crossintr ,
Mtle above the Mismchinca, is 120 feet high, an extensive view is opened to tho nortij
lor many miles the country appears to be flat, elevated, well wooded, while awai
beyond, to the cast and northeast, the horizon is bounded by a rantro of hiiuj
spursor foothills of the Pocky Mountains. feo oi uiii,-|
The banks of tho river for some distance continue 100 feet in height, and ar.^
generally bare showing exposures of sand, clay and gravel, which have been groove!^
and worn into fantastic shapes; then they gradually drop to a much lower level uni
lor some distance above the mouth of Pack l^iver thcv are only a few feet above thl
water, bometimes they are covered with luxuriant pastnie, sometimes with rici
groves of spruce, cottonwood, and occasional birch, while on the higher slopes the aspeif
poplar takes the place of tho Cottonwood. ' ■
The river maintains pretty evenly a width of l.iO yards, and a current of thn™
or four mi es an hour Eelow the mouth of Pack Pivor, which is lot more than 8(|
teot wide, tbe_ islands become numerous and the banks varied, levels of pasture lanf
ultcrnating with rolling country, low wooded hills, steeps of sand and indurated clay)
vvith croppmgs here and there, of sandstone and of limestone. Sometimes tho rivel
divides so evenly at the upper ends of tho islands that it is difficult to distinguish th|
mam channel, while, at the .same time, there are many sloughs— or " slews " so callcd-
whcio part of- the river flows by some devious and half-hidden course,' that mjrdr'
where tuey blend again with tho main current, be mistaken for tributary streiV
ihe voyageurs observe changes on the river from year to year, tho course of 'the
stream and tho appearance of its banks having perceptibly altered. The soil bein-l
'? oa .''^"^ '•' ^'^""'[y ^''^«bed down by the current in spring, when the river ri^el
la or -0 feet above its lowest summer level; the shores are cut into new curves- baJ
of sand and gravel are removed from one locality and built up in another; tho islandl
are worn awav above and increased by deposits further down, and the slopes anJ
bushes along the banks have, in some places, been stripped by fire of much of theil
loliago while in others they have been covered by now growths of bush or tree *
ihe Nation River joiiKs the Parsnip from the west, about 35 miles below t^
mouth of the Pack River; it receives the waters of numerous lakes that lie to th|
south of the Omenica dist.-ct between Babine and the Parsnip, a region not yet surf
veyed hardly even c .-loi^d, and little known except to the Indians. From thJ
Mismchinca to the Naiion traces of lignite have been found, regarding which Mr.l
oelwyn, Director of the Geological Survey, who examined this part of the countrJ
in 18.0, says: '• Some of tho blocks found along tho shores of the Parsnip were i
largo size and sufficiently pure and compact to be of value as fuel, if found in thidl
seams. (Geoloyical Survey Report iov 1875-76, p. 71) Landing nearly oppositJ
the mouth of the Nation River we found the soil gooa, the land undulatine covl
ered with a rich crop of wild hay and peavine, from which itmay reasonably be infer!
red that many of the fiats and slopes along the river, and perhaps also tho uppeJ
plateaux, would afford excellent and abundant pasturage. ^ ^ i'H %
Below tho mouth of the Nation the hills at some distance to the east and northl
east, appear more peaked and lofty than those that we saw when higher up tkl
the river. We passed by " bars " where gold has been found year after yelr, althou-t^
not in very large quantities, probably borne down by the current from the rocks!
in the neighbourhood of Omenica. We met straggling miners engaged in prospect-
ing and some fur traders competing with the Hud.soa'8 Bay Company,^ for the!
rest the country appeared to be untenanted. e j >
99
Approaching tho Forks wlioro tho Finlay>nii Pai'snip moot, some 72 milos bolow
[»aek Rivor, wo caught to tho iiorMi o:ist, llie first gliinp-o, hi^'h up among iho hill
jps, of tho gup betweoti tiio mountains tlirough wliioli tho Poaee River •• knives its
ray; tho hills being hivo moro ruggoi! an 1 more ilonsoly mas^oil than anything wo
■ soon since wo left tho Skcona, wiiilo occa.Monal snow peaks could bo soon "•listen-
lug among them. "
Tho Finlay drains a groat portion of Omonica by ono branch, wliiie by another
rocoivos tho waters of an unexplored region to tho north of Omonica. For full
pO miles before it joins tho Parsni)) it ''has twisted and coiled itself by many a
Kiggt"^' '"ountain range and through many a rocky canyon, receiving as' its tribu-
taries sti'cams whoso sands glitter witli gold. IIore"its fluw its gentle, but 30 miles
brt'wo could see bold snowcapped mountains that tell of tho character of the country
Ihrough which it has carved its way. And tho Parsnip, ere the two rivei-s blond,
das flowed nearly as far us the Finlay by many a curve from tho ni)lands whore its
Sources lie near tho head waters of the Fraser. As thoy meet their waters brondon
Uo a small smooth lake, and then rush down a rough and stormy current, nearly
iialf a mile in length and some 800 feet in width, known as Finlay Uapids. Ileyond
Ihitf the names Parsnip and Finlay are dropped; tho rapid known by the name of
Iho wilder river has blended their waters beyond all recognition. From this on-
pard till it meets, near Fort Chipowyun, tho waters that empty Lake AMiabasca,
miles from this, tho united river is known as tho Peace. Tho Sicanies cull it
^ho T.>eta-i-kah, " the river that goes into the mountain." Tho Beavers, who live east
t)f the Eocky Mountains, call it tho Unchagah, "Tho Peace," for on its banks was
[lettled, onco for all, a feud that had long been waged between them and tho Crees.
About a mile below the rapid the river turns suddenly to the eastward ; at this
bend it is fringed, on both banks, by gentle slopes and irregular benches, beyond
Thich rise the hills, at first not more than 2,000 to 2,500 feet in height, some scarped
y ravines, some castellated with regular strata of rock, but for the most part lightly
TOoded. This is the beginning of tho Peace Eiver Pass. Almost immediately be-
w tho entrance Mount Selwyn rises to the right 4,570 feet above the river, 6,220
L't above the sea. It is a massive pyramid, flanked by a ridgo of rock on either
bide, its lower slopes formed by detritus washed down from side and summit, partly
bovored by burnt timber and tinted by frequent patches of grass; its upper slopes, in
^art moss-covered, in part bare as polished granite, broken and irregular as if shat-
:erod by firo and frost; its sides, now shelving, now precipitous, grooved and seamed
by torrent and by avalanche; its eilgo ragged and serrated, till it terminates in a sol-
itary snow-clad peak. Along the northern side the hills arc grouped in endless variety
bf form, the irregular masses looking as if they had been flung there at .some terrible
konvulsion of nature to show into how many shapes mountains can bo cast. Nearly
bppositc Mount Selwyn the Wicked River, a stream clear as crystal and noisv as a
tascaile, flows in on tho left b. through a gorge between the' bills. To right and
_ alternately sweep the bioud curves of the main liver, while the ridges between
?hich it winds appears to bo dovetailed as you look down tho pass. The view
hangos with each bend of tho current ; hero a rugged shoulder, bare and hard as
luamant, butting upward for recognition, there a frowning precipice with no trace of
regotation, or a wooded knoll, solid bsneath but with a fair gieon surface, here a wild
lavine, there a great shell-shaped valley, while sti'otching far up are the peaks that
Term a lesting-place for tho eaglo and tho cloud. Tho day being fine there was a
berpetual play of light .and shale on river and hill, and so, as we wore swept on by
Ihe current, cloud, mountain, and river, peak, bluff and wooded bank were woven
Into countless and ever-changing combinations.
. There was little snow to be seen even on the highest peaks, much less than w©
bad expected ; indeed in this respect tho Rocky Mountains here are less impressive
Ihan the Cascade Range, through which we came when ascending the Skeona, and
there are glimpses of scenery on the Skeona grander than anything on tho Peace,
^ut here the Rocky Mountains are much lower than they arc further souih, while
aks ai-e massed and clustered much moro closoK' than on tho Skoona. Grada-
!^l
h
10i»
ol'l •rKlf!.'';":"''.""--'^-. -« fonua the ..haraoto.
oy Ix-ins to widen; to tlw • W ' ..^^ .".. r;;'"^' ^^' ' ^'l^'^ 'o the Munmil
oC boil)
iMo valley lx'f,'ins to widon; to tlio i-IlWiI ris.w \r,.„nt r- ~ " i'^'r T'T" '^ '"" -^"""nit
ranyo that necus, with nharp ikI-^^m .Teierv'e t v p'r ^''k"'"'^'' '''" ''*"*' "' ''"
avoraKO width of 250 yards yottho nin on , v 'V ■^''V"^'' '''^ '''^"'' l>™-^e'vo.s u
sot about two miloM aii^ir fm„fnr.wh'^ u "" "'"'"'' "^'^^^ '^™"-''^" ti" 'l'" liiHn u
that wo have p^orJ^'r^ZToaS "ho V"!"'" 1 ''-'".-'--nit. Wo rj^^"
about -2rniio8 in ion./th borno nlfin.r?nfi ^I'^'ky Mountain Hunge through a p
great Unchagah. " ' ° P'^^'^antiy along ,n a hirge boat upon tho waters of ,
in mSS'S^nlliSTiru;; turlT^ "'"'i:""""" ^'•"•"^"'•'-' -'-- -7«tal purity,
be closely approached ioforo it tcSirod '^ T '"'''^ ^"'" ^!^' "'" ''''''•' ^"^ '"I
we find flat, and bonche.s in almo.st unKe l.^n .^ "T^^' ''?P''^- ^^'"^^ ^hil
and tho now rccorling hills some of thom t.iP ""' «'':ot^'"nK ^^otweon the rive.'
feet above tho water't edge, w th nc 3 .5 h, ""'•' "I '"''''''' ^'''*^" '^■'*'' ^''«" ^hir ^
not br.ken by thecur,.en?tlK7t n p a oh 1.; -x, o'Tu"' ^"T'T ^'"^ ^^'"'^«' ^''«''l
groen with grass, kinni-kinn.lc, Sr lo v I T ■*"'^; f'^'' "''g'-"^''^' ^ed, arl
«ilvorborry plant. Along both si c ff the Hv .^ . ' ''°''''°'' '^"^ ^''" '''^'^"l"'"!
Home with as clear-cut o l-es „ if h,.v I , i ^'""'*' '""'^ ^'^'''"'^'"•^ ''" tier upon tier
marked but wooded. In£J tl e^ i t rS;""'?.',!"" ''"""^"r' """"'•^ '^'■^^'-^'i
beaul.f-Mlfeainreintholan.lscape rivh^V r.n '"^' -"' '"^"-Y "/''''■'' aBtrikinganJ
the ,.ight bank are almost unif mlv Vinfbo od T'"'"'""^?, "* ^"Itivation. Tho^^e on
smooth, tl.oirsidesoccasionallvse Ln^ I ll'T "", "^*^ "•^''"^ bank grassy a nJ
not bc.on seen h...« f;... I. ..?. :'!'^_'*-''"l°.'^ ^'y "'-' buHalo trails, for though tho buffalo I i
K
others, at this season of the year aiinen,- „„;n> r-f'""."*^"" V"""'" "'""'" '"''m^ig
grassy hills remind one of Homo of tl i Jhoen f ^- " ^^ "'''■' '"^'"^'' ^J"'« ^he low
Were it necessary or e3 on tn fin? '"° PJ"'^'^'"" "^' Scotland. *
nor.h as tho Peace JJive • Ss a com,.;"?,-'" T""' ^"'" '^'' ^''''^'^ ^""vvay. as fari
tion. Even at the ^M^^iil^^^T^'r^^T " '''''"^ i" this dire
almost invariably fi-inged by flats^ by Sle s n e '" ^""'' *''" "^^-^-'tains are
hav
the
whi
thrc _ ^ ^ ^^^^^ ^
reached, the engineering difficulties would n.V.h.ii.i, i •' ;"' "'" "-"o canyon ij|
presented by an open prairie. Bu thrcLrdS t ' "' k""'^'^ ^"'"''' than thoJ
at tho canyon where the river sweep" round hof'r ^" ™"'' ^'^"'^ '^« ^"""^
as the Mountain of Eocks or tho7oieMom,?Un ^
even here, although the work would bo heawC'i-^ffl ''u-''^ Hudson's Hope; yet
insuperable. This route might be of so'vico i^'i H,?'®'"'''"'' '^""'"^ ^^ ^y "» "'«""*!
pmonica district to some northe. n Pac?Jc terminu s^nr''° T''^^''"^ ^'^^'""^''^ "'^1
me, however, that would ci-oss northerrBruVsh Pni i^ • "' ^T ^'mpson. For any
tnct. whether by the Nation Ri?e EabiS and SI "'"''"'; 'T^ °J ^^' 0'"«°i«^ dii.
more southerly route, the Pine Rive, I'nss iJ u ?"' ^"^ ^°''^ Simpson, or by any
Offer a shorto/course^haVtrt?rtL Pe^ce^RK^. P-tr"^ '' ''^ P™^''^'^'^'^' ^'4
Of the fck7Zu°L^arif Et?r^^ i^S ^'iL'Tr'^' '' ^'^ '' -'^ -'
broken torrent some 200 f««t in ™,-^.u:?:.'°_.''"S'''' the rivor is here a wild and
lUllil
broken torrent some 200 feet in width hat so !a,n« I u' '" ^*""« ** ^^'1^ ''n'i
gated except by tho Iroquois crew that accomn'TJa°''"^ '^'^^ "«^«'- been navi-,
expedition to the Pacific in lSi?8 Th" Hiff .."^ ^ ^"; ^^'^''^^ Simpson on hi*l
" "^''^ '^'^" ^"^ '» «omo places broken into terraces,!
101
1 othors llioy rii-e «lieor iintl |)i-efi|iitioii!< for over 2J0 foot. Tlio khii.-o "i' the river
i alwujH curved ii.-i it i1;ihIiom ulieriiiUely to right ami left, vvliilo I'ldm end id oiid tho
bnyon t'ortnei one griut curve round tlio Ijiiso of tlie I'ortiigc Alouiitu n. CLinilicriri"
^long tho face of tlio ciitf in parl.s whero a foothold was possihio wo found a larrow
leam of bituminous coal aliout 150 feel ahove the water, cro])j)iti!;' out ainoni; the
landHlONO rock. Another Hcai.), about two I'cet thick where expo-cd, wa^also toiind iit
Iho neighbourhood, as well iiM 11 .seam ot lignite. It is not improbable, trom those
pndicaUonH, that abundance of coal e.xists in this vicinity.
This canyon is the oidy obstruction to tho navigation of tho river for sevoial
hundreds of miles. From the head of the canyon to the mouth of Pack
liver that eniptioH tho waters of McLood Lake, or even fuither up tho Parsnip,
[the river is navigable for sU-amers of light draught. The Parle I'as and the Finlay
upidsaro the oidy ra])idsof any conscciuence ; these could bo i iin with case and safety,
iiid could bo surmounted without much dilHculty by warpi'ig tho boat against
ithe current as is done on heavier ami more tortuous rapitis on tho
pVaser. From Hudson's Hope, at the lower end of tho canyon (IJ miles by tho
porlago trail from the upper end of the can^-on), there is no obtruition whatever to
feteam navigation till tho V^ormilioti Falls are reached, some 500 miles lower down ;
md some distance below Vermilion a few miles of land communication would bo
^•equired to avoid the rapids on Slave River at a phue called tiie Five Portages;
ifhen this is |)assed tho river is open to larger steamers down to tho Arctic 8oa.
Inhere would thus be but three breaks in the continuous steam navigation from the
mouth ot Pack Hi ver, down tho Parsnip, tho Peace, tho Slave and tho Mackenzio
'iivcrH (which, though dilioring in name, are in reality one watercour.-e), that is,
from northern British Columbia through tho Rocky Mountains, by tho feitilo Peace
■Hiver district, to the Arctic Sea, a distance in all, by water of not less than 2,500
illes.
VV^o wore compelled to leave our boat at the up])or end of the can3'on. and being
juniible to procure a boat or canoe at Hudson's Hope, we made a raft on which wo
floated down the river to Hunvegan, about 110 miles, reaching Hunvegan on the Ist
Lugust, a fortnight after leaving Fort McLood At Hudson's llojie, the fertile part
of tho I'eaco Hiver di.-trict may be said to commence, for above the canyon
jthe land suitable for farming is limited. From this point tho river winds
^ts course gently and evenly, sometimes widening to a span of half a mile,
eucircling islands in its flow, but for the most pari preserving an average
Ibreadth of from 25i) to 3ii0 yards. The baid<s which, from brow to brow,
lare usually about three-fourths of a mile apart, are now cut by I'avines, now scarped
jinto valleys, now bared by landslides, now gi'ass-grown or wooded. Looked at from
jthe plateau, wh ch stretches out on every hand at an altitude of several hundred feet
labove tho liver level, tho river seems almost .is regular and uniform as a canal cut
Ithrough a vast expanse of prairie. Occasionally, though seldom, low hills obstruct the
Jveiw in one direction or another, but from Hudson's Hope, e.istward, along the course
lof tho river, and ibr many miles on idtherside, this plateau is an almost unbroken level
>f excellent soil. Some of it is timbered, more or less heavily ; some of it is open
Iprairie covered with pasture.
I The Hudson's Bay posts, a few mission stations, and two or three " free-traders "
leHtablishments are tho only places occupied by white men -'roughout this vast
Inorthern country that we speak of as tho Peace Eivor district, and these are uni-
jformly found on tho fertile flats near the river's edge. On those flats the soil is
[usually of the richest character.
Tho garden at tho Hope yields excellent potatoes, onions, beets, and other vege-
jt&bles, as well, as barley and wheat, the seed of this year's crop having been raised
Ifrom a single grain, which Dumas, tho agent, found accidentally among somo rice.
lOn a similar flat at Fort St. John, abou* 40 miles further down the river, barley and
jwbeat, as well as a great variety of vegetables, are successfully cultivated, while a
[still greater variety, including cucumbers, are grown with even greater success at
jDunvegan, 70 miles below Fort St. John, where wheat has been raised as long ago as
iC*
102
Ml
iS.,„!:,r,i^,"r,;;;i!'r ':;^"":i 'J^r'''"-- "- ^»"«r
.Siliiiitod ;,'en.!
with; i„ Ho.njVa ; , ;;^, M "^m 2T^ '"■ 1'*" "r •"'"^' '">- ^^^'' -'-ii- «iiHo:i
as far north ns Ko, t Sin.nson nt f n. . ^""^ r"'"' ■'"'''■"■'■"• ^^'">"t '•■< Ki'-wi,
«aid that potatoes arc X "V F S "m "'" ^^T"''' '"*' = '''^" "'^••"'' '"^' ' '
Wheat anil harley -row,, at fin f "''PO, near the n.oiilh of the Muekenzi
42' north, re<...ivo,h rial a ' th ^P TillTI", *^'p '""' ^^'''r. '■^>'-''-"^'. la.itu. o M«
It i.s not, ho^vcvor, In th^ Jh ru or 1 ' '■«"''";," i"'' JiN'I'ihition of I87(J,
aro,mdthe]^^|so^^sHavConnanvC r. ^^'":;■''•>''''^''^ ^"i' "" 'I'" Cortilo f!al,j
must bo tested, as thosfflatsX^ol Ztivl'l^ '" ".eritsof the i;oa..e River distr r
-.dethat,r;i.nd,,Jir;:l'-S.;;^^Sr
t.on from Lesser Slave Lake we twani anH '° '■^"'htios for railway construe
northwar<ls in tlu, (lireetion omnr^L n " " ^"i ''^'^" '^■'■"■'•^!'i« "f Smoky River'
are indioate.l in the ropo rts that Tfo^ ^T' "' Y^'" "^ ""^ ^'luiracter of that pass
eaHtwardtoLesserSlToLaf in,?f;r''1^'"^ '^''■'>'" P'"" C'
Battle River, and southJaS o 5 ^ P uilh^'t"! ""''"'"'' "'""^ ^'^ '""«^ ^'
thoron^Mi. Throu^.hoat the whole of the d s -'n ' . "'^'■'""."••'<""' vvas tolerahly
M'.th very few exeeptions, the Si ^v^ fo^^T .^■"^'•"•^?;' '" ^^eso oxplorutioni I
luxuriant wild hay and neavine nnH .v ^^ excellent, with rich herba-'e I
«ervioo.berry bnslL .4C t ^0^ " y i " "o™ h 'ofP;::c"''r' ''""''•"^" of saskatum.'cS |
while the di.trict known an " La (ISFn^uL'' ^TI" "PP"''n'«^"'iarly fertile, I
Pine Bivcr, from ;^5 to 70 miles south f n?n' ^''"? ''°^'^''"" ^'"«'^>^ «'^«'- and ''
those part, that are swampy LnehTl portion 7fY"' '' «-^''«P"'""""y ^'ood. Even
and Lesser Slave Lake m -M t be 1^^;" 'h ^ ^^^i'''' '^'-■"""■■^' between Smoi.y Bivor
difBculty by the ronS.'ah'; ta'TdlT^tf ° F ^^ -"^>-tion with n^og^t
character of su.h portions as wo con d not ' nn "l i ^"d'^'\^o»'-'"g to ascertain the
formed that, to||„'vin- iho noKh and L . T . '''/ p-^«*"'"o. we wore reliably in-
^olle„tforadistanceT,f om 25 to70 milerr '^ '^u' ^''"' ^''-'''' '^'' «oil i/ ex- 1
Hope to Fort St John withfn«rin . f'"'" the rivor ; that from Hudson's!
St John the open jSwr etj« •;',{'''"""''^''^^<^"^''>' W'>»Jed ; that below For i
120 miles, to imolly' Efv '."t^h t fmm S "'p'-^""" ^"^"^'^'"' "sht wrdsf ? i
distance by the river of more th n qnn ' rtu^'^?'" '« "''^ ^'^'^ Vermilion a I
prairie althoiii^h the soil is f,'oo. ifor about io'!;,-!!' 'f ?"""° woodland than open *
bolow Vermillion, for a belt ofS„m li^n //. '^' *'."'''' ^'""^ '^'^ >"'»'» '''vor; that
interruptions, sm-h as thrc.ribon M. ? •'*^ ""'r' ^^^ '^"'' ''^ ^^''tilo, with occasiona
Slave River.' FollowinAhe loSJh^nT ''^'il^','"'''^' "^ ^'^'' '-^^ ''»« S'^'t Sprinffro
Hudson's Hope, though irUleTsfo.thr' ''?'' "^^'^'"'^'^ ^'^°'"' ^ho platiai from
Kiver, which flows in^'to the P^ aL.ff . ^f ^f ' ' '''.^'^'>' ^''"''"^ "« f"-- '« P^ne
as far as Smoky River there Ts nT i^'""^ '''''°^ ^"''^ St. John. Beyond that
wooded and pai^lyopSn, l\ll incUrthe"'"?- '"T'^ ''^ ^'^'^-•'^ble la^lid, par%
least 70 miles ,n width from north to JfuS S'''"'^^^™ '•'«." i« i" «cme mrts at
beltofr«,.fno..ii „„„..._. „"'^'^ "^o south. There, bending with the river the
river, as far as Fort Vermilion and for f '*'« ^"'^ of about 40 miles from the
fi^-^A--- ^^-tand «ou,h'Sh,"tl['Lrrr/.. ! Lf''-» X-->'^ to Lake
Athabasca. East and south ot'thrsTelt hot """'T'' ^"^^ f'om Vermilion to Lake
«"?.'rd between Peace RiVer on the t'^ranVno fr'![ T ''"" ""^'^^ '^^^^'7
Athabasca River on the south and eas? Tsaid t. Tt' f "** l"''^' ^'^^^ ^^a^e anS
and marshes that render it, to a great ^e^' ' „nfi^ f ^^''"". ^^ ^"'''' ^"'^««' «t>-eamB
one of the best hunting-ground! for heS T ^"f ^''u™'"^- '^his enclosure is
beaver skins having been^ feceiJed fa t year at ?he"Hu. "oS' P "'^^'"'^ ^'^ ^«- ^-OOO
Lake, taken almost entirely from this dfstrict ^"'^''^'^ « ^**y Post at Lesser Slave
103
ii» valloy. .SiiiiiUo.l fr,,,,.
have viu:h llioir ;rar,|,.,|
lost i)vor>' vo^'clablo amj
icco.ss. Wheat is ;r|.,nvi|
Int.: er north, ami ii i,
loiith of tho Muckonziu.i
Athaliasca, latitinio r)H» '
xhihition of |87«.
oil on tlio forlilo fliiuj
tho Peaco IJivor dislrici
I. Tho district pronerj
• many niijos on oitlior
't ahovo tho rivoi-, an
nODniilosiarthonlown!
•tions of this oxlonsivo
for railway construe-,
•ssingof Smoky River I
character of that pasn, ''
ts. Fi-om Pint> Kivci'
rd uhoiit 70 rnilos to
i nation was toloral)!)-
ill those oxplorutiong,
t, with rich herbage,'
idanco of saskatum, or
{)oarj)Ofiiliarly fertile, .,
un Smoky Riv'or and I
itionally ijood. Even "
)etweon SmoLy River
ivation with no groat
■itig to asoortain the
we wore reliably in-
River, the soil is ex-
that from Hudson's
dod ; that bolow Fort
ithor light woods, for
1 Port Vermilion, a
ivoodland than open
Iho main river; that
)rtile, with occasional
tho Salt Springs on
)!•, tho plateau from
)odod as far an Pine
John. Beyond that,
Itivable land, partly
" is in scmo parts at
with the river, the
40 miles from the
yormilion to Lake
tion of the country
Hser Slave Lake and
hills, lakes, streams
This enclosure is
son's Bay Co., 8,000
post at Lesser Slave
It would bo difficult to form any reliable estimate of tho area of arable land in
lis loaco Rivor district without much more careful examination tliaii has yet
ben made; but it is manifest that tho extent of fertile soil is very L'roat tho host of
apparently being that which lies to tho south of Peace River, includin.r what is
[riowii as" La (rrando Prairie." "^
Throiigli this district there is a great al.undanco of moose and bear, the moose
binghorc to the Indian almost everything that the butlalo is to tho hunter of tho
luins. Ihellesh IS bis chief article of food ; the skin, when lanncl, is tho groat
katerial for dross, at loast for winter costume, while mitanned it is used lor a Sreat
niety ufp'irposos; among others as the covering for bis tent or tepee- and cut
ito htiii)S (in which form it is known as shagnappi), it serves in almost everr
lanulactiirc, and tor all kinds of repairs. While such large game continue plentiful
IS vain t,) expect that the Indians will tako to a settled lite, or will ciiliivato tho
111, as some ot tho Indians of the plain- are being forced to do by the L'radual ex-
Inction of the bulKdo. Even at tho Uud. n's Bay posts throughout this district, where
lostot tho vegetables and cereals growi, ii Ontario can bo raised with success tb»
;ents and half-breeds are almost entirely dependent on their hunters for food. They
luld raise cattio and crops very easily ; wild hay is plentiful in the vicintity of many
the forts; tho return of potatoes is frequently as high as forty to ono, twonty-livo
gs of potatoes at Dunvegan having yielded one thousand kegs; and yet many of
10 Hudson s Bay agents depend for their supply of food very b.rgely on tho labours
tho Indian hunters that are attached to each post. Thoir neglect of agriculture is
;e, no doubt, to the policy which the Company have long pursued' of keo .ing tho
juntry as a tur-bearing preserve, furs being of more imporiaiico to them than farm-
ig; and it is duo also, in some degree, to the frequency- with whicfi the agents are
lovod from one post to another, which discourages them from making any improvo-
lOiit on the land, or from undertaking work from which they may probably reap no
!3ults. One consequence, however, of this dependence on their hunters for supplies
that when, as has sometimes - ;curred, several weeks pass in winter without any
low, and there is no chance of tracking the door, tho people at some of the posts
ay be reduced to the verge of starvation. Two years ago, at Hudson's Hope, the
-ent and bis family were forced, for a tim., to subsist on the untann..! moo'ehide
hich had served as window-panes, and their chief complaint was that they had not
ough 01 it. ■'
No attempt has yet been made to cultivate any portion of this vaH plateau,
Ih the exception of a very limited area in the vicinity of Lesser Slave Lake; tho
ly cultivated parts throughout the whole district being some of tho flats not more
lan ..0 or ao feet above the river. It might, therefore, bo premature, in Iho absence
actual experiment to pronounce even tho most fertile portions of this plateau suit-
le tor the growth of grain. Yet there are various considerations that seem t) war-
int ttio conclusion that tho climatic conditions of tho idateau are not Ics-i favourable
the culture of wheat than those of the flatw near tho river level. Wheat thrives
Id ripens at Hudson's Hope. Fort St. John and Dun vegan, and also at Lesser Slave
jake, which is on tho level of the plateau, even although summer frosts occur occasion-
lly in June and sometimes even in July at those localities, while this year there was
rest at i>unvogan, as well as on the plateau to tho north and south, during tho latter
iart of August. Though no record has been kept of the changes of temperature on
le plateau by which they could be compared with those in the valley, yet it usually
lems to bo as warm on the plateau as it is nearer the river. Frost sometimes
Jcurs in the valley when it is not felt in the plateau. Horses are kept out all winter
ipon the plateau, even although the thermometer sometimes fails to 50° below zero,
>eing able to paw away the light snow, which averages IJ feet in depth, beneath
mch thoy find abundance of excellent grass. Cattle are usually home-fed from th»
filter part of November till the middle of March, large quantities of hay being pro-
lured from the patches ot meadow land found hero and there upon the plateau, and,
I. t hi 1 V ^'^^ -^-P '•^""'•^ "^ indefinitely incroasod if seed were only sown m
luitable localities. Although tho growth in early summer is usually moi <3 advanced
I
104
M
I
in i^- »:..". j;;-",,^^^^^^^^^ which usually forun about tho flr«t wocJ
during ilVo same period ^110. U.oTh W J"'''.'^' • ;'to for ,,la..tin« potato.f
uauully about thoL'Jr.l Soptorbor ^^' '"" '"'■^'««"'« P"^"^^'"'^ boiJ
lllttl'n iLi'O Hot uiitfi. .:....• 1... . . . . I
iiy about tho L'Jrd Soptombor ^ -'««'"« P'huiuo.s ooin
thXrbL: tir '"V"'^r^ Tho soil «oomsas r"
River
and the hcibVo aVluxmiunrirJi'!^'""''" "r [u" ^;^."''^."-*V"'^t. Tho soil «oom.s as ri,h
anloxcellentand abundZ w Zt h.I 'v ^i , '''OHts occurred in Au,i,'u,st, and whuu-l
even were (n.ver Z ta a^S . ' . !''' ""^>''^."'' ^o^" '•caped. h might bo wdl ^
beyond doubt t u Xal-g. w . "S '/' '^ •''ivesu.ps taken to a.sceria.'
Meanvvhiie it Hcoms en oS/.o ^ largo j.ort.on of tho xVorth-WW
montul knowl..,! ; . , 'I'''"'"'"' *^^'^'" ■» l'>o absonco of positive oxncri
may ihus pi^ovo t bo uv^e 'v al" i r'" /" "" ?*""'""' ^^''-"''tgrowing country a„„
the sr^Ahh.;;«rfh;'wi;^;^''''^""'"^'"'''r'''-'"'^^'^"^ ^^-^ -"'"-- '"i
warm as K.-.t ,, , ii^ V ^' "* ^*'^'°''*''' ^'^^ ^'"^ snnnncr is, gonorailv J
Tiiirt ■^l :' j,,r'i7lnro ''-"^t"" '•""-.■. -uti. in o,ua;.ih,;QK
This d,.„,v i... .S »"''"'«'"•. "I'nougli somclimcs lh« vaiiaiiiii, :a muili "realer
i „ .. .v„^.„,;,_j. guod cart road iioiu theHndson'8 Biiyposi'^
105
fors l()ii;,'or on Mio ii|)|„
■lion it iius oncd bo„'ii
)j>or anil Iowoi-JIovoIm, ii
OHVOH.
•nn about tho flrHt woej
company'K JournalH, lei|
bofoio tho avora^o tiut«|
for |(lantiii^r potatoes
■^'tf«''"K piHatoos boiti^l
son botvvoen tho Poaoel
Tlio Moil Mooms as viM
ivo alroady known to hoj
tho clinialo, howuvw
l.i,'iii>,' at lou^■t by tho
joins to bo Hcarcoly u,\
111 in Aiii^iiHt, anil wIicih
ipod. ItinijLjht bo WL'IL
sl«ps taken to a.seortain
im of tho N()rth-Wo>ti
ICO of positivo o.xpoii
ilistrict, most of whichl
sutgrowiiiL; country aihl
1 yot tlio unilevulopi'il
ro.sour'i-os this districti
t.g been found, though j
)n Smoky JJiverand
CO, Willi in o:isy accov,|
allbrded by the I'eiuvj
•oiirabie moans ol'coiii-|
lod at tho mildness oil
liner is, gonoially. i«j
11 Ontario oi' QuebotJ
Tliero is a marked!
st hide of iiii> Jtoukyj
ills is probably due tol
Pacilic have, by tlioj
!■ moisture, tirst by tliej
s, while at tho samef
. of northern JJrilif
1 there is a very yreati
ni^^'ht. I)iirini( tlioj
It Fort Duiivo^s^an was]
at night was 42"
ptweoii tho summerj
ion is much greater.)
ribed, jiioducesa very I
h of piaiitw, and thft|
m the soa.
m to Edmonton by al
uto of tho Canadian
opened along this linul
ng delayed he camoj
uonton. This routul
iny between Bdmoii- .
le Hudson's Buy posl'j
Boar tho junif ion of tho Peace and Smoky Rivers, 60 miles below Dunvogan, to JiO.ssor
BluvoLake, a ilistaiico of ()2 miles. From the Fort no;ir tho western e.xtroinity of tho
lake large sail boats run with oace and safely down the lake, M)nio "') miles in length,
Mown Lessor Slave Itivor, a htreani about Kl' miles in leiigth, emptying the waters of
^hu lake into tho Athabasca Kivei— and dou n the Athabasca liir about b") miles to a
point known as tho Athabasca Landing, from which thons is a waggon road to
Bdmoiiton, Dfi miles distant.
The country between Smoky Rivor and Lessor Sliivo Lake, or at least that por-
kion ol il through which the road passes is almost unil'ormly excellent, part being
Rightly wooded and part open prairie. Around Lesser Slave Lake thoio are largo
marshes yielding abundance of excellent hay, and in this noighbourhood, as already
Btateti, wheat has been grown with marked success, although as yet in very small
juaniity. To tho south of tlio lake tho country is hilly, though near tho margin of
;ho liiko tho land is very swampy; to the horth there are numerous mar.-hes, lakelets
ind streams. Tho small river that forms the outlet of tho lake is about 25 yards in
idth, very tortuous, hemmed in by low banks that aro alimwt uiiiloniiily wooded
vith iiBpon cojtse and willow, between which il. winds with vavy gentle current at a
leplh sufficient for hiigo IL H. C. boats heavily hulen. The soil on cither side near tho
■iver seems excellent sandy loam, and whore frccot timber abounds in rich grass and
)eavine. Kro it Joins tho Athabasca the river widens to a span of 50 yards and pasf^os
ivor a series of gentle rapid.s, while its bunks become more varied in contour though
Istill cliwely wooded. At the junction of the two rivers tho Athabasca is about 200
'ards wiilo with a current of about 'Ih miles an hour. It broadens out in its further
[flow but its current continues much the same for many miles. Tlio land on either
lide is wooded with ])nplar interspersed with spruce; ilie banks ri.se bv gentle
dopes to a height varying tVoin 100 to 200 teet ; tho soil seems good though light,
iovorod occasionally with luxuriant pasture, but for the most jKirl lightly timbered.
Tho woods were rich with many-tinted foliage; tho shores gravelly, grass-
[grown and handy by turns. No signs of life wore visible except an occasional
beaver; and tho Indian crew, knowing thiit there was ample time to meet tho carts
that wore coming from Edmonton to the Landing, allowed the boats to be borne
tonward by tho gentle current, while, coiling themselves under their blankets, thoy
passed hour afior hour in sleep.
Athabasca Landing is at an elbow of tho Athabasca, where, after flowing for
|«omo distance in a southerly direction, tho river turns somewhat sharply to tho
north-east. This southward stretch from the mouth of Lesser Slave Lake to tho
elbow is taken advantage of by tho Hudson's Bay Company for tho transport of their
stores, furs, &c., as the route down Lesser Slave Lake, the Lesser Slave Itivor and tho
Athaba.sca to the Landing is a very direct one, and, in connection with tho waggon
[road that wo traversed from Sr.:'>kv Uiver Depot, and a waggon road from the Land-
jUig to Edmonton, af1brd,s tho most favourable route for tho transport of goods from
■Peace River eastwards. Between the Landing and Lake Athabasca the river passe.s
[over two falls, where somewhat heavy portages would bo required, and on this
account freight to Fort Chipewyan and the northern districts, instead of passing
along this portion of tho Athabasca, goes by the Mothy Portage and the Clearwater
route.
Soon after we had reached the Landing tho expected train of carts from
Edmonton arrived, and after unloading their cargoes returned. The country for
some distance south of the Landing is broken into ridges, the soil being at first poor,
but after twenty miles are passed it becomes very attractive, rich with luxuriant
[grass and pea-vine, watered by frequent streams and lakelets, and occasionally
dotted with aspen copse. Approaching Edmonton, and particularly from the cross-
ing of Sturgeon Kiver, the soil is exceptionally )-ich. The road leads for miles by
luxuriant hay meadows, and through gently rolling wheat-lands of great fertility.
LaJ'ge fields of wheat had already been cut,— one field not far from Edmonton cover-
ing 100 nores,— and ths hearts of the settieiB were gladdened by an abundant harvest.
VVecameunexpectedly on a little clump of houses overlooking the Saskatchewan,.
■pi
106
P^^^nZ;\^:ZTiZZli^:f^fT'1^ '^^ -"^- «f the settlement
Territories. ^°' ^'"'^ Hudson's Bay Company Po.st in the North- VYeil
^^o{t^Ti::;^^^^^^^ it was necessary to drive
most pro,ni,sing tract of countrv/whe.e serttr^n^l oi ^""^^ ^ ^^'"^ ^'^"^'^"1 ^^4
Indeed, ju l:,n„5 of the Edmonton dis? iot h. l „ ^'''^T "''"''P'"^ excellent crops,
the Fort from the north aP<Jf,orn i.. . f^ ^'lo country traversed in approaching f
Tonclun.o,I'Hn,.rnTEltetwS;ipS^^T7 "^'l^r^ .1" ^^"l^^^'^' ^^•••'0",
been p.-esented in the repoi' s of The cSfan F^oifi R,'. ''^^ '' ''^'''. ^'' ^^''^m
tionofthecountry.saveonlytoconfi m th„ .ft Rajlway concerning this poi'
great fertility of a very laU propoptioLf ^h^^'^Pf''^'^' statements regarding the
"— -nfidence in :fs pos^ibffis a," 'n Its fa?urt'' '"'""''' '■*"' ''^ ^"^''^^^ ^''^
DANIEL M. GORDON.
gr
utmost con
' i;
!
107
APPENDIX No. 7.
W
EL M. GORDON.
lEPORT ON THE CLIMATE AND AGRICULTURAL VALUE, GENERAL GEOLOGICAL FEATURES
AND MINERALS OF ECONOMIC IMPORTANCE OF PART OF THE NORTHERN PORTION OK
British Columbia, and of the Teace IUver Country, by Gkorge M. Dawson
D.b., A.lt.b.iVl. l<Xr.S., assistant director geolouical survey of Canada *
(1.) Climate and Agriculture.
The climate of the coast of the northern part of British Columbia, while not
.subject to great extremes of temperature, is excessively humid, with much rain at all
Jseasons of the year and occasional heavy falls of snow in winter. Neither Esqui-
Imalt nor New Westminster, which are the only regular meteoroloirical stations main-
Itamed near the coast of the Province, ij:ivo any criterion by which to arrive at a
Iknowledge of the climatic conditions of other districts; for both these places— but
lespecially Esquimalt— are sheltered from the excessive precipitation which occurs
Iwhere the moisture-bearing winds first' strike the liigh coast line. Observations main-
Itained by myself while engaged in a geological examination of the Queen Charlotte-
jlslands, during the summer of 1878 (published as an Appendix to the Roiiort of Pro-
Igress of the Geological Survey, 1878-9), fairly represent the climate ot that ro»iou
Iduring a few months. Observations kept up during many years at Sitka two'anJ
la-half degrees north of Port Simpson, and considerably further west, doubtle-s repic-
jsont a climate considerably worse than that of the northern part of the i oast of
British Columbia. It may, however, be us.'ful to extract from these the following-
J facts. The latitude of Sitka is 57° 3 , or about one degree north of Glasgow (Scotland)
ITemperature observations extend over a period of forty-five years with little intcr-
jruption. " The mean temperature of spring is •4l-2° ; for summer, .516°' for
I autumn, 44-9°; for winter, ci2-5°, and for the entire year, 43-;{, P°. The extreme*
I of temperature for 45 years are 878° and -i-0°. However, the mercury has fallen
Jbclowzeroof Farenheit in only four years out of the 45, and has risen about 80°
Iduring but seven years of that period. The coldest month is January, the warmest
I August ; June is slightly warmer than September." The mean of the minima for seven
jyears of the above period is S8-6°, and of the maxima for seven years, 4?-..°, shewino-
I a remarkably equiblo climate. The average annual amount of rain, melted snow and
hail from 1847 to 1864 (with the exception of the year 1855) was S'Z-dG inches, or
within a fraction of seven feet; and the average annual number of days on which
rain, snow or hail fell, or heavy fogs prevailed, was two hundred and forlyfive or
two days out of three, while it does not follow that the other days have a clear sky.
Tables by Lutke, from observations in 1828 and 1829, show that on an average each
year there were 170 days calm, 132 days moderate winds, and 63 days with strontr
winds.f °
The average annual precipitation of moisture at the mouth of the Columbia
Eiver, eleven degrees of latitude further south, is stated to be five inches greater
than at Sitka, and it is therefore probable a priori that in the vicinity of Port Simp-
I son and about the mouth of the Skeena, on that part of the coast of the mainland
•Transmitted for publication in aiivanco of tlie forthcoming detailed Report on the Explorft-
■Caa'd ^^ permission of A. R. 0. Welwrn, F.R.S., F.G.S., Director Geological Survey of
t Alaska Coast Pilot, 1869, and Pacific Ooast Pilot, Appendix 1, 1879, p. 30.
108
lyin^' open to the westerly winds between OiioAn rh.,,.i^ff« a Tr
and on the west coasts of these i^irdTumtZnrS^ ^-"^ Vancouver Island
and amounts to between 80 a,!!! 5o inchil least equal lygroa,
though small in comparison with that of afbwovconHAn J """"u °^P''"<-''P''tntior
r siur; lilt: zE^a^°519rT ^^^
the north side of Dixon Entrance littio nvm- hpm "^m ?^' ^ ^ongass is situated o,,
line. The mean tom,mra ," e i Se re iS-S^ or c^^ns^l^^^ ^"'^ ^'^J^'^"" '" '' '"'•«'
may be due," Mr W H D.H w .h«. < tn i^ ^'''^-'^ "This
Entrance of the warm wate s of tSe AlaskV'p '''"":' ';' ''^ "P"" '^'^''' "^ I^'-^
PaciHc Gulf Strean..'To. t S^ass is tl^eloc ii^'o?"'' ^T^'/'^'^ t^e great north
ory^:;rxii^'£;:a;^'r^sr.s
t T<,ngas, about 200 dnvHnv..,.n..„';Kil:''!"^ P'^"*^ ^^ ^^o north-west cof
Alai
wh
th
on
coast.
^i:,j;^t:,;S'f li.?!r'!^!:^',.!"„-^i"-^'- -ith the «.t that the sky
througlK,ut the year is essentia V cloud vn^^^ '^. "^ ^'^^ ^"«'' ^^at the sky |
the dSw point ^.ear the actuS^tei^^^^^^ and keeping
charaetorofthe ve-etation andtKttt& , ° '■"''' accounts for the peculiaf
districts exposed tS those V^mltlnf it iS";^'"^^^^^ ''°''''^''^ 'T"" '^°^'™^^" '» ^ho i
Queen Charlotte Islands/Ld e IseX.-o m ,nv of %T7' '" k '. ''''^ "^"'^^ »^" ^^c
with forest, the remainder of ?hc ru.fac'e1be,"n. Ir • t' "*'', ^"* P'""^''^"^ «o^«'-od
foot in depth, and saturated wS' wate "eveTo^n strerlpr^^ "T •^"^-»'
part of the Queen Charlotte Inlands is in groat meSe XT/^ Jf ^.T'"'''-.°''?'"'""
>ng ^yind8, and constitutes, in fact, the only efte^s ve^'^^^^^^^ t'^V^^ ™'"-'^'''^'-
suitable for agriculture on the northern part of the conff m n ''' '"''P''*'"*' ^ *>«
Katia, who kept a meteorological regS for some thno after l^'fif T'''"' °! •^°"'^ ,
country.estimated that there°were on an aveiagrabiut seven fin„ 1 ''■'■"^"' ^" u**^'
that ,)lace. The behavior of the winds and bu-ome L'tnhA v^' '" """""^"i '"
Queen Charlotte Islands, appear to indicate that fh„?!nf p ^ Vancouver and the
from west to east, pass to tr^oithwa dof thfcoa t'o *Sl^^^^^^^
so, it is probable that the force of tho Vnlnr^. T u l'^^ Columbia. This being
part of tL coast of the p'SiTnTelanl^tfesoutheT''' '''"''' ''' '''' "-•^'^-•" ,
Gooi^gia. it may be interesting to quote, fn thi connection thi ?om' '^ '^' ^^^™'^ '' '
by the great but unfortunate navigator. La pS^u?rbeai n^'on fl '.".^ B'.atement
the west coast, f lie writes • " I first thon.rhf th' °°'*""S <>" the northern part of
Which separate Europe and imeriL but TfhoadT. ""^^ ™°''' ft>gg7 than' Ihoso
have irrevocably embraced tL opinion The Jbl of N^'l S''?'"x^ "^'^^^'^^^ *»
and^Hudson's Bay bave an i«eonteLZ-c.a^S.\^pt:Lte^?rmS^trt
^j;:=ettsTis;trS5V^ifj^ef sr?^'v'^^'^",^« "^ "«
of the water, duo to thn TCnn^.Q; J. ... "„!__- ').°^°"' .''"UP ^he abnormal warmth
i« 53-8<'. Between vfct^ia ar^ MilbaTLnrrvThe^
28th to June 9th. the average tompe=aset stfarw's tlT'^^ ,tZ
• Pacific Ooast Pilot, Appendix 1, lor., rit.
T Wuoua Uy G. Daviison in .-ilaska Coast Pilot.
109
liannclH bolweoii Port Simpson and Milbank Sound, between An<riist 2!)tli and Sop-
Biiil)(>rJ2lli, r)t-5°, ami fi-om the last nioniionod dale to Oetolier 180), ahoultho north
liiil
hv tiio Hin'faee oftlio sea between Victoria and Port Simpson and outside" the Prince
If Wales Archipela!,^), from Fort Simpson to SitUa, in the latter part of July and
jarly in Au^'ust, of 52-l°. In the narrower inlets of the coast, the tem|iera(ure of the
ea falls, owitifr to the quantity of cold water mingled with it by the eiiterin<.- rivers
,,.,,' I 1 -..«.«..>. — .......v>.. ..c.v I.. w>-i.vi,ui loiii, aiiouiine norm
t\ (it \ .ini'ouver Island, and thoneo to \ icloria by the inner chaniuis, oOT' Ob-
ivations by the United Stales' Coast Survey, in 1867,* gave a mean 'temperature
rface of tl ' ' " " '
Arch i pel
of
ntaiM. mo annual average temperature of the sea surface otf the west coast of
ritain is stated as 40°, while that of the eastern North Atlantic, influenced by the
ulf Stream, varies from 44° to 54°. f
It will be observed that the summer temperature of this body of warm water
ppcars to be somewhat lower than the mean summer temperature of Sitka, its
iithienc(^ on the ( 1 tnate is not, however, a direct one, but is chiefly exercised' in the
illowiiig way.— The prevailing south-westerly winds, sweeping over the warm surface
f the sea are raised to its temperature, and become saturated with moisture, abstract-
ig (roni it, as they do so, and rendering latent in conformity with we'll known
hysical laws, a still greater quantity of heat. When, on reaching the mountainous
foasi, this moisture is again condensed and discharged, the latent heat becomes a^'ain
jiparent, and greatly raises the temperature of the atmosphere in which the reaction
CCUI'S.
According to Dove's tables, the mean annual temperature of a place situated in
e latitude of Glasgow, derived from the temperature of the whole northern hemi-
hcie, should be :i5°. Owing to the Gulf Stream and south-westerly winds the
^ tual mean annual temperature ot Glasgow is about 50°, or exceeds the normal I'v 15°
Phe mean temperature of the greater part of the North American continent n the
ame latitude is .")° to 12° below Dove's normal temperature, but that of the regions
w the west coast of America— which is related to the course of the Japanese Current
|M a manner similar to that of the west coast of Europe and the Gulf Stream— as
epresentod by the above detailed observations at Sitka, exceeds the general mean by
light degrees. The mean annual temperature of Sitka being, in fact nearly the
aino as that of Montreal, ton degrees of latitude further south. '
Many of the islands lying off the northern coast of British Columbia, and form-
ng the great archipelago which fringes it, are low; but, tliough covered with
u.Kurieut forest, possess very little soil, and are in many cases composed of almost
solid rock. About. Metla-Katla and Port Simpson, small patches of ground are
cultivated by the Indians as potato gardens, and good crops secured; but the total
"rem)f arable land existing on this part of the coast, with the exception of the
ortion of the Queen Charlotte Islands before referred to, is so inconsiderable as to bo
■cari oly worth mention.
,.,,,,. ipinge on the monuntainous
inunnianil the heaviest precipitation occurs, in exact correspondence with the height
Ito which the moist air is forced up into the higher regions of the atmosphere, and
koolod there by its expansion and loss of heat by radiation. As the mountains
lattain a considerable elevation at the coast, and the increase in elevation of the peaks
lof
• Alaska Coast Pilot, 1869, p. 20.
t ''That portion of the Kuro-Siwo baring a temperature of 55" P., or more, approaches the coast
lortn-west America in the vicinitv nf Viinnonvpp rnlAtiH. Tho ni-ooinitoti/^., ;« —„. ._j ...jj._
Nnr.v, »,;.{* • ''."''.^"■^".-■?'"" "5V, » " <'>='"i'"«,'»i'"re ur 00- r., or more, approaches the coast
wortb-west America in the vicinity of Vancouver Island. The precipitation is greater, and sudden
inf »i^ — 'Jb'^-' !..„., .ri-.invSi? aiir ij.oic cumuiua cemecti iRttmuc ■L'3^ auu 00- «. than on any other narl
I or tne coast, so far as we know But the water near the coast is less than 66" in temnerature and mav
Uverago nut more than 50'»."-Pftoific Coast Pilot, Appendix 1, p. 21. iii)er»iure, ana may
110
hi
forty.live or fifty iniloH above Port Es^in-r on >,^i ^ ■ ^^ "'° ^^""""'^ J^'^'e'". '■
and i. .till ,nio clearly appaiiuwEx^^
Essington to the Forks of Skeona is reacho, Tl „ . ^p' '''^",''^ h"lt way from Ponf
of the river and i-d^ative o/;; l^SdfiiSS:^^:'^:^^"^" "^ '"^^^ ^-'4
I'he change is so g^adu.? ^fevS ^^^ the flits and slo J
on the Skeona so complete that it isTffioult toas ' L h ' '""'^ ''"'^ '"^°'-''"'' «''™J
With regard to tlie snowfall o, the SkeeLa Sr^ H r ^Tr P^'^J^" ?^ ""-' ""4
here m 1877, gathered that from Port EssSn t n n -^V^""'"^'" •^'^••'"g l"'^ .-nrvcvl
(56 miles), it was exceedingly heavy rrchfnra IT' r'l' T""' °^ ^'^'^ ^^''^-^''^ei
this place to Kitsalas Canyon it reaclfes a?Sl^^^. ^^ n^ ^"" ^^"'^ "'" '"'''•^'- i^>"nii
about Ki :wungah,- sixteen ,Vi fcTs e ^w helS'Ti/o.^'*^'^'?, "^^^ ^'"^ '''' ' ^^'"'1
as information can be obtained from the Indians t!;;;.! averages tlu^ee feet. So f;,,]
The depth on the benches about tl"e Fo.l?s Ts lot^ 1! T"? T 1'"^": '''^'^''''^'
c.rcumsta,.ces the snowfall is here consideJablv le , U, ' T. ' ^'W "^'"^^ ''^ '"'^^»'
the aveiageJor this part of the Skccna Yallev hiTn '" '^"7 "«'«'''boring loralitv,
. At about iwon/y miles Ixdo v thi Forkf tl e ^iT^t'^' ? ""'" ""'^'"' '^^'" '-
nverand a few luuulred feet above it, level e^eif^^^' ^ at the sides of 1!,.
Bhow soil of fair quality, composed of sXt:^';^'^;^^^^^^^^^^^
It IS rci)oi>ted that iho Skoon'i v.lh.rr ,.^-^;. ^'"^ '""'*^ «' 'ess vegetal) e mattir
further L, and it ,s cert.dl;:: wi.l^S l^Slllin^drr "' f' -me appeara,!
a considerable width of land"saited for a^nlu turc L d o'^ i"- ' "" ^'''^''' ""'^M
Kjspyox to the north-westward ''o'l^^uituic is also found m the valley of the'
Hankin, a trader who has re'ded mTnv v.T''?'"- ^^^•«'''li"g to JJr.
1 .'.St falls in October, but melts Sgai„ thTvvint<r n '"'"'V ''''''' «'-^"'^^'-^^'lj
the middle of Decembe.-. The wintei is in Z ^"o^^,""^ '^^^'"'"^''' *'" 'ibout
isalmo.talwaysathawinFebiuaT Th",K ^ '^^i '^°''^''->' ^'o'^- tl'ough there
48° bc^w .e./an.i to rem/nt"d;j. all\t:Z::%o''' ''''' ^^"«"'" ^" --"
opcn^s^'s:::^:' ss^Seg?;;: ?""r sr f:sr'' "^i^- ^^^ "r ^--^ - --• <^
first week in April. Some cultiva ion is clrfiTon PotnfV''''' '" ^"^. '^'^^ ^^""^ the.
by frost in the sprin.' and on tw nL?- In 2 potatoes are occasionally ninnedl
They are general/y ha'rv'ested in7h onSTseptemSeJ'but'f'^ •' '{ ^."'"'"'^- ^'«'^^
ana can be obtained large enough for use abStS J frT ''?'' '^°^«''« that time,
ripen, and wheat, Mr. Hankin belie -eswoufd be an f "^"I" ^'^ ^"'^'^'^ ^^''^ '^^^^ "^
1878 was exceptionally long, an ItwoTuclslvrcrnf 'r'" f?' '^'^^ ^^"''O" ^^
frost ; the second boin| a ' tolunteeTcron ' Tn fe. ^k, ""^ °'''' '■'P^""^ l^«f'>''e the
ber and other tender vegetables con^eo'ierfectiont'r^''^"'' ^1"''«'^*^«' «"«"'^-
been wintered here, ihe former requ" inl^ to be SVn fl '''" ° ""'^ "^"'""^^ '^^•^''^
lee b'J2n'^rr?ft^here\':^.,;^;'^^^^^^^^^^^ week ofMay
freeze til the end of December. tL river b™S very ranid'tSr '''' .S<^--^'4'
freezing is usually the occurance of a thaw 'rhinfJ^rL ^ I ^^ op^asion of il^
.oe sometimes very suddenly, blocking the river and cau«in^i1t ^f '''''' "^^°^'^°'"
1867 the river closed on the 13th of November wh!nh^?^ .^ ^"^^''^ ^^^r. In
river is generally highest in Ju?, deriving mostn^^ exceptionally early. The
.now on the mountains. It is lowo^st imm^gteTy aft^r the ^^g^os!'"' ''' "^^^'^"»
Ill
he heavy minfall oftLj
V tlio Skeoiiu Jiiver. .(j
easing iiioisturo i« fbnn'il
bout half way from I'oi I
lib and sk-iink fabbjuJ
!int in the lowec vencbll
unci.
t, the highoHt summit oil
loi'istic of the noilheinf
rn scnih pine and aspcM,
' on the flats and slopo-
^oast and intoi'ior tlora^j
ci.so position of the lineJ
mbie during his survcv,
montli of the LaifoL^I
1 feet or more. Fn.ral
iepth of six feet, while|
;es three feet. So fai
onfirm those estimatos.^
X)Ot, but owing to InM
y neighboring loralitv.l
a little uiid(!r two icJt,
hes at tiio si.les of ih,'-
niles bacic from it, aiil
Joss vegetal)le mattoi-.L
the same appearaMce!
ibovo the Forks, while!
nd in iho valley of the!
Forks or ILizelloni
I. According to Mr.
•0, snow generalljl
lot coming till aboutl
y cold, though thcrol
)eon known to roach f
ut(hes|)ringissuidto
I to bud out about the
occa.sionally nipped |
0(1 by summer frost?. ^
•ipo before that time,
Indian corn does not!
crop, The season of
ts ripened before thef
)ns, 8quashe,s, cucum-
ittio and horses havo I
iths, tho latter have |
ips to allow them to
• first week of May j
11" does not generally
the occasion of iu
quantities of anchor
to freeze over. In '
tionally early. The ,
• from the melting
f\aa ^ I
Without entering into details as to the mittiral ve-etat^on r,f the rogion it mnv
bo said that U appears to indi.ale that the rainlall is ULMily the samo .-.s al.o'ut (Jues-
Inel, on the I'raser, while the climate is in g..noial much like that of Quebec or
IMontieal, with the excej,tion of tho winter, which, according to the statements
labovo given, though rather shorter, is more severe.
I am induced to think that Mr. ILinkin is wrong in supposing that wheat would
Inot suwced well about the Forks, but this must remain a naatter for future
lexpenmont.
Meteorological observ-ations kept by myself while on theSkeena, from June 7th to
123rd, being taken en route from riort Kssington (o the Forks, are necossai ;l y ininerfect
and as wo were engaged in travelling during the day i! was impossible lo ascertain'
the maximum temperature. The mean minimum temperature read on a ''ood ther-
mometer carefully p aced on nine nights; between Fort Essin-ton and Kitsalas Canyon
IS AS 4 h, the actual lowest reading being 8;i°. The meanOf seven nights fi'ora the
Canyon to the Forks, 43-b°, the actual lowest being ;37a<='. The mean of observations
taken about G a.m. and 6 p.m. ; every day, on the rirst menlioiuHl part of the river is
50'8 ; on the upper pan part of the river, 5J-8°. The nioau of mornin- i-eadin<'s
taken below Kitsalas Canyon is 45'' of evening readiii-, ,■>(; 4'. These rcdurc 1 for the
hour and time of the year by Dove's table of corrections, de.-ived from observations at
Sitka indicate actual mean temperature of 49'1° and -,:;-l°, respectively. The mean
doubtless lies between those figures, but their di.scord shows thai, we have already a
I considerably greater r.ango and a climate more continental in character than that of
I «itka. iMorning observations above tho Canyon indicate a mean of 4i;n°. Evening
I ob.scrvations 5S-9°, which, corrected in the same way, yield 50-58° and 55-6° as
approximations to the true mean temi)eraturc.
„ Of ihe Watsonquah Eiver, whi(di Joins the Skeena from the southeastward at ihj
torks, Mr. Cambie reports that tho valley throughout its entire length is in part prairie
and sust'.iDsa magniHcent growth of grass, but is siibiect to frequent summer frosts
and unsmted to agriculture. * The Sus-kwa valley which joins the Watsonquah, and
up which the trail from tho Forks toward Babine Luke runs, contains noa-nicultural
land worth mention, but its northern side has been in many places very "omplotely
burnt over, and is covered with exceedingly luxurieiit grass and pea vine formin<-- an
oxcollent summer range for cattle or horses. " i > o
habine and Stuart Lakes occupy portions of a single great valley, which is
bounded by mountainous country on either side, and communicates iiorthwilrd with tho
flat country of the Lower Nechacco. Th(! upper end of the lake rarely freezes
completely across, but this is due, net to tho mildness of tho winter, but to tho great
depth of tho watei'. A similar circumstanco has already been reported for Francois
Lake.f A terrace at a height of about 200 feet is specially prominent round tho
ako, and after reaching this height the land frequently runs back several miles as a
level or gently undulating plain. In other places it slopes gradually up, i eachin'^ an
elevation of 500, 600, or 800 feet above the lake at from two to five miles from it.
The valley is not even then shut in by high mountains in its central part, but appears
to continue at nearly the same, or a lower level in some places for many miles. The
woods are generally light, aspon and poplar frequently preponderating over spi-uco,
and jonsiderable tracts with a Houthorn exposure, from which fire has removed the
forest, are covered with luxurient grass, peavine, epilobium, &c. Tho portage
between Babino and Stuart^Lakes is low, across wide spreading henches, and from half
to one third of tho surface appears fit for cultivation. Considerable areas of low
land also border Stuart Lake.
The aggregate area of land below the 3,000 feet contour line, with light slopes
or nearly level, and which may bo supposed to have some prospective value, i»
groat; but it is impossible to form even an approximately correct estimate of it till
the maps are further advanced. That in sight trora the lakes must exceed 500 Bqd«r»
• GanaiiiaB Pacific Railway Report, 1878, p. 70.
t Report of Progre»8, Ueof. SurTejr of Oanadn, 1876-77 p 47.
123—8
112
Se'd.nl';:;';;;;;,?:?^'^-"'-'^^'^^ -ly remaining question i. i„ ..e,a..dtoj
by ^zi'zi!::z :;si7,f ^''"° j^^'^^^"-^ ™°- ^'«-'y hom^od i J
thin lak.., M.I Stnal'akl^uulvoilf^^ i.ivorably Hituated than the remainder i
theSu-skwuVallcI^VM^/CUrl^^^ 'If'^^''^ ^^^^ind that o
the nor.h e.„l. the other at th?midd7e orB' hinl /'^^^^^^ ^\^'''' ^'y P"«'^^- «"« «tL
grow p..lai()eHan.l rnanv kind o? vllnn.M V"h f^tosthatat the luttor ho can I
which ripened well An r^nnlT^^'^ ""'' ^''"^^ his predtce.sHor grew barW I
vatesali'^Uerari ofla-^d il tl^^T^ '^'''^°«" the two lakes oalll
crop of poiatcle. a u a itile «i. Kh ["' *'« '>''^ '^ «"« '«°'<i J
the earj'ust appearing at ihe dall'',?: .^^is aX"4tt"''li'e'":r 't "^"' ""'^ "'^'f
here, cutting hay for them in swamos arnnn ^^ul TV ''i ^^/^'^^ keeps Home cattle
found potat<7esfloun\shin.. but Shp?.^ btuart Lake. At Fort St. James we
Barley' was doing well, and haV bet gr'oWn'aJf. 'Sa"r cZ '/ ' '""* '"^ •^""«-
In the garden were neas lottnf^ k^ . leguiai crop lor many years. *
and cau^>fl,nversrdoingwdl enough bat noTT^'l- T'''\ ^"^•■"^' turnipsf c..bbago,s
Hown .his year as an cxpe men? and Sad 1 '^ T/"''';"^"^" ^^'^"^'^ ^as bfon :
visit ^July 7lh) ''P^-'ment, and had not suffered from frost at the date of our
juiy^s;';s;;':':;:^rs;:2^£;^;^-n S:^^°^f -^-^ ^^';\ ^-« ^^^^ ^^ i
ing and even i ng observations is 5 1.?°^ Th, * Z ^'^^ P*'''" "^^ ^^^ "'^'''y morn-
and more rapid^hanges han in fhe Skeena VaMfr'^'T \^''' r^^'"' "^ i'^'^''^'
experienced a frost, tJ.e themomStor rerteri, l&?"n^^ n.ght of June :i9th wo
bine Lake, and i. the vicinity of thVs^H.H^. .' ^^' ,*''^ ,"°'' '''"■" ""'I «f I^^'"
In the vallcN- of Bab ne Ld |tua t L,-^ .Tr "'"' "^'"'^'^^ '■"^"'•'''^'^ ^«-
ciently long, an.i ,l.e absolue amount o?t. 'TZn rri '•''^'"M^ ^' '^^■
crops, inclu.iing v.brat, to maturitv h,,f fVl ^ • ^"''"?'' ^^ ^'■'"-'^' *i" ordinary »
liability to sunl^er fro t?nSy?;S.;if^^*i;V;f°"?-«™f'^ what extent thi I
especially wheat. Tu.ugh th^s Sv m^v h^ , ^""^'^t.on of some plants, more J
country of the Lower Xechacco .ts vicin^^tn L T''^"'^ as a continuation of the I
what inferior to that distWc? in c i m nL ^ "" f "' '\P.''°''''"'^ *" ''''"^er it some- *
«ence of further information I oan™i ^"^ ^'§^ snow-clad ranges. In the ab- „
former occasion, J-lz. 1 at'w'hiie U irnot^nroCe^tt'i T f '^ '^J^'^' '•««'«" <>« ^ i
parts of its a, ca, it can scaSy be doubted Sat hn.l ""^"l* '?" '^^ fe""«^" «^«'- «>' I
where in it, while whcit wouIH ^^^11- t^^"* '''^'^'ey may be ripened almost every- 1
M .ome time -ppo^t^cZ Jt^ e'^t^t o„"VuK%sf 'V"-"^" ";"' ''''^^''^
passage of a. ailway through it woulKoHtu't^^^^^^ ^.^ ^*'i '•*^'n«»'l^«J that the
the first instance, the cou.itiytoTL east of t^^^^ '""'"'« *' ^ f""- '"
or Saskatchewan Valley., would offmsunlwo/^nH^ Moun a.ns, ,n the Peace River
raisers. ^ ' ^™' supeuor inducements to farmers and stock
Report of Progresa. Geol. Surrey of Canada, 1876-77, n 61
^^^^t Rep., of Progress Geol. Surrey of Canada. 187e-77, p «. Canadian Pacific Railway Report,
^ J Repon Of Progress . Geo,. Survey of Canada, ,.75-7, p. 3. Canadian Pacific Ry. Repor, ,87,
113
uedtion is in I'ogard toi
ore closely hommod in
than the i-emamdor of
lidodly behind that of
idaon Bay posts, one at
bat at the latter ho can
dtcessor friew barley,
n the two lakes ciiiti-
•, he had a fine lookinjj
ivefcot high and with
also keeps some cattle
Lt Fort St. James we
wn by a frost in June,
ip I'or many years. *
rlic, turnips, cabbages
ted. Wheat has boon
)st at the date of our I
t Lakes, June 27th to i
Jan of the early morn-
I'e HubjoL-t to greater
li^'htof June :i9th we
nor hern end of Ba-
iy leferi-ed to.
ison seems to be suffi-
to bring all ordinary
to what extent the
'f some plants, more
. continuation of the
irs to render it some-
egard, in my opinion,
lyois Lake. In pre-
■ -Neohacco basin as
ion in the Province
e miles. It is based
)riod, constituting a
ranges. In the ab-
of this region on a
m be grown over all
opened almost every-
)gion will, doubtless,
remarked that the
settling it ; for in
, in the Peace River
) farmers and stock
3t. James, on Stuart
solwyn and by Mr.
ized by wide sandy
acific Railway Report,
'acific Ry, Report, J878,
lats ,is about 2,81.; foot, taking the height of St.ia.t Lake at 2,20!) feet W,th the
es U. the north of t^e Nechacco ^:l';^Su:i^ :;:^.S. ^^^^^ S: i^„^^
lorably broken and the soil generally light, sandv or .rnvel v 'T'^^ '^ ^»"^'-
\. liosi was experienee( on the ni"-ht of Iii'v r? h i,>,r u > "-"*'"« /^""" "'ituiai ii.iy.
At Fort McLeod the potatoes had been cut down by frost in June but had reco
'ered completely and wore growin-r well in Tniv tV» J".."! •^""''' '^"'^ "^^^ 'cco-
.oor, and (he amt of c.ltivable land notexUMHivi" " '"'' ''' ^'''''''''' ''''^'''
^■om'jultlThroAu.ust'ft";.^''''"'^ uttachiri to tl.e.e ^n the n^JtteastvvaJi
Ithe rou^ is 39 7°^S« I'n'T?^ Ihe observed minima on this part of
'Jthetrermomete,49-I'.' Th muft be mud.teloT'tT'^""! """'"^' '■^''''"^^
Ifpr the thermomete'r had seldom rLT mri"lo^tTt 'minfmlTh^n^^^^^^^^^^
!6a.m. The heat was sometimes great in the middle of the ry, but a we wo^o
hen alvvays trave l.ng, could not be registered. Three frosts weT-e exneHereJ on
?!":?? "f '^'' if> ^^d and 4th of August, the thermometer heading 3^0 5° 28- an3
oO 5 on these nights Strong westerly winds, falling calm at sundown with a clear
*ky were the conditions causing the frosts. ' The quantity of a,3e Cd in SL
reTA"d"rallerofV1ne%"'"7''""f '^' 'if"? P-A-d. on^he route folbweV to
T ™,i3 <'J,?'"?,^'^'«^fo'- ^ ^«^ m'len above the Middle Forks.
Unable^ mettvalift^' ^7^' r''"""'^' ^^'" ^'^'"'' ^he exploration of last season
«nablos pietty accurate general information to be given, may be considered as
bfreTdrsfatefX' "'""^ f'^. "I'-f' ? ^'Z'''' '' ^'^^ ^-«'-- We'^t of thi point, a
lalieady stated, the areas of fertile land are small, being confined to certiin river
llScfedtTherS' W-?h 'tn'' ''^' '"1^ '■' '^u' "'^^"^^ ^^^-^^'^ -^ high plateai
At ached to them. With this western limit, the region now to be described may be con-
Le pie' RZ^^^'h *'' T\ ^^'}' '^^'^ P^''^'' *« "« intersection eastw^ardw?th
ioSthwaivuA T; Thence the boundary may be assumed to follov. the Peace River
SncTto rl «o„T \ of Hfr Brook, near the confluence of the Smoky River.
we8tei4 L,^«r ^f /k K-iT""'"^ ^ *"?"• ^^^••«'»i^y «f Lesser Slave Lake, to follow the
aver tlSotn r n ® ^lu^ a!?'T 'f^"? ^ ^^^ «°"^^ «f the lake to the Athabaska
hills tA n n^^K T ^^^A ^^^l^^^^^ westward to the foot hills, and skirting the foot-
hills to run north-wostward to the first mentioned point on Pine River.*
I by the yanevorhe Utter to r an 1«. R^^ht »n*//i^°" 'K" \?'"^'°l^ '» *>>« """^l' "^ 'b« «i'i^'e la B6che,
I ffiVthfprB'ertoSliat"X£'° h^^ trea'ted-at>-ea?e"r leag.hTny ta'^'re de^^i^-t mly
123— 8J
114
avcrap elevation may bo stato.l a.s liltio over 2,0()0 foot, and this is maintained witJ
consKleiablo uriiformily, ibr tliuiif,'h the gonunil surlaco HJopos .slightly from liio noplJ
and south toward Peace Kiver, the region as a whole may be considered as a nlutea,,
through which tiie groat gorge-li Ice valley ol'iho I'.jaco has been excavated. This vailev
lias in g.neral a depth ofCJOO to 8U0 Icet below that part oftho plateau bordonntr it with
a width of two to three miles from rim to lim. Its tributary streams at first nearly
on the plateau level, flow in valley's of continually increasing depth a.s they annroaeli
that ot the Peace Kiver. Those from the south-eastern portion uf the re.rion ri..
-either in the Jiocky Mountains, cr near the Athabaska, the tributaries rocoivod bv
the latter stream from the north and north-west being— with the exception of ttu-l
llatiste — quite inconsiderable in this part of its course.
The ridges and hills by which this region is occasionally divorsifiod 1
appear in all teases to bo composed cither of the generally soft rocks of the
Ci'ofaceous and Tertiary or of arenaceous clays containing erratics I'nd reprosentinJ
the boulder clays ol the glacial pcri(xi. Theso elevations are generally slight ami
with cNceedingly light and gradual slopes, the scarped banks of the htr'earaJ
constituting much more important irregularities. Those ridges, however often!
rcsc-nble detached portions of a higher pl;itoau and spread widely enou-h to occunv
in the aggregate a considerable areti, of which the soil is not so uniform in character
as elsewhere. With the>e oxceplions, the soil ot the district may be described as si
tinesilt resembling the white silts of the Nochacco basin previously referred to and noil
dissimilar (lom tho loess-like material constituting the subsoil of the RedEiver V^allevl
in Manitoba. This silt, at a short distance below tho surface, is greyish or brownii'
in color, but boconries mixed superficially with a proportion of vegetable matter toa^
varying depth It has evidently been deposited by a comparatively tranquil body oli
water not loaded with ice, probably toward tho close of tho glacial period, and has I
either never been laid down on tho ridges and undulations above referrod to or ha/^
been since removed from them by natural processes of waste. As evidenced bv tho^
natural vegetation its fertility is great. -^ '
West of the Smoky Hiver, both to tho south and north of Peace River there are!
exterisuo areas of prairie country, either perfectly open and covered with a more or I
less luxuriant growth of grass, or dotted with patches of coppice and trees P
The n rthern banks of the Peace River Valley are also very generally onen and
grassed, and parts of the valley oftho Smoky and other rivoTs have^aTmilar
''h^T-fn^n^''^ total area of prairie land west of tho Smoky River, .'iy be
about 3,000 square miles. The remainder of tho surface is generallv occunid
by second-growth forest, occasionally dense, but more often open and composed o'
aspen, birch, and cottonwood, with a greater or less proportion of coniferous trees
Some patches of the original forest, however, remain, particularly in the river vallev.l
and are composed of^much larger trees, chiefly coniferous, among which the black SDruce
IB most abundant. Uandsomo groves of old and largo cotton woods are also to be fC
in some of the valleys Whore tho soil becomes'locally sandy and poor, and Zt\
particularly in some oftho more elevated parts oftho ridges before described a t"? k
growth of scrub pine and black spruce, in which the individual trees are small is
m?i :l TeZTslfar *'' ''^""'^ '^ ""'' "^"""^'' ""'^ ^''^^^ ^^ "^ '^M
Eaat of the Smoky River, and southward towai-d the Athabaska the
praine country is quite insignificant in extent, the region being characteS^ br
.econd-growth woods of the character just described, which, oS approach ng thl
Athabaska, are replaced by extensive and well nigh impassible tracts of bri"f and
wind-fall, in which second growth forest is only beginning to struggle ud
1 hough the prairies are most immediately available, from an agricultural Boint
of view, tte regions now covered with second-growth and forest, whore the soi Sf
Ik TL!!lf^"-*''' *T'" «Tf "t"'^ 'y ^^ ^qually valuable. The largest tract of pooTland
that bordering the valley of the Athabaska on the north, fhis rises to aTJevSn
OQUHiderahlygroater than most oftho region to tho north and west, and appears durnJ
the submergence to which the superficial deposits aro due, to have been exposS tJ
115
;his is miiintainod with
ilij,'htlyfmm tlio nonh
uoiisidored as a pluteaiij
excavated. This valley'
iteau bordonn/j it, witli
streams at firwt iieaiij-
epth aH thoy approaeli
ion of the region ri>f
ribiitaries recoivod by
the exception of t\u-.
iasionall}' diversifiod.
ly Hoft rocks of the!
itic-s t>nd i'epi-escntin<;i
generally slight, ami!
anks of the btrearasj
idges, liowovor, often!
lely enough to occupy
uniform in characlerj
iiay bo described asai,
ily referred to, and noif
rtheReditiver V'alloy;
s greyish or brownish i
vegetable matter to a]
ivoly tranquil body oli
;lacial period, and has?
ivo referred to, or has I
As evidenced by thei
eace Iliver, there ares
ivored with a more or i
e and tree.'.,
■y generally open and!
Ivers have a similari
loky liiver, ■.^^t^y be!
I generally occupied I
pen and composed of!
n of coniferous trees,
y in the river valleys,,
/^hich the black spruce i
Is are also to be found i
r and poor, and moie
3re described, a thick
il trees are small, is!
^rows generally inter]
the Athabaska, thel
ing characterized hy\
on approaching the!
tracts of brul6 and I
iggle up.
an agricultural point I
, where the soil itself I
tract of poor land is |
rises to an elevation [
it, and appears duringi
ave been exposed to I
stronger currents which have prevented the depo-tition of the fine silt, causing it to bo
re|.laoe(l by a coarser silt which passes in places with aciuiil sand, and alternates with
ridges of boulder day. This region is also often very swampy, and for a width
of twenty to twenty-live miles on the ti'iii! from Slurgeon Lake to the AlliubaMka
J IS quite unsuitod to agriculture, though still in many plai-os cjiiialilo of yielding good
I .summer grazing when the forest has boon completely removed by fire. To the niTi th-
ward, more pardoularly to the oast of Smoky Hivor, ))oaty and tiio.isy swamps ixjcupy
part, of the surface, and these may bo regarded as piirmanontly misuit'ed toagi-icnliure.
There is also a sandy tract, thoui,'h of small width, along the lower part of the
iKIk River near its junction with the Smoky. .Deducting, as far as |)o.ssihlo, all the
lareus known to be inferior or useless, with about twenty nor cent, for the portions of
the re;rion under consideration of whicli less is known, the total area of land, with
[soil suited to agriculture, may be estimated as at least 'J.'viOO >qniire miles. In the
absence of complete maps, such an estimate cannot be otherwise than very rou^h.
[but may scve to give some idea of the fact.
Whatever theory bo adopted, and may have boon advanced, to account for the
[■wide prairies of the western portion of America further to the south, the origin of
the praiiies of the Peace River is snfficiently obviou>'. There can be no doubt that
I they have been produced and are muintaincd by fires. The country is naturally a
jwooded one, and whore fires have not run for a tew years, young trees begin rapidly
[to spring up. The fires are, of course, ultimately attribiitiible to human agency,
liind it is pi'obablo that before the country was inhabited by the Indians it was every-
where densely forest-clad. That the date of oi'igin of t"he chief prairie tracts now
'found is remote, is clearly evidenced by their present appearance, and more particu-
larly by the fact that they are everywhere scored and I'ulted with old buffalo tracks,
[while every suitable locality is pitted with the saucer-shaped 'buffalo wallow.s.' It
JH reported that a few buffaloes were seen last year near Pino River, but the animal
has now become in the Peace River coimty practically extint t ; an event which,
according to the Indians, happened at a date not very remote, owing to a winter of
[exceptional severity, during which the snow "reached to the'buttaloos backs."
The luxuriance of the natural vegetation in the.se prairies is truly vvonderful,
I and indicates, not alone the fertility of the soil, but the occurence of a sufficient rain-
fall. The service berry, or amalanchior, and the chokocherry are very abundant in
J some places, particularly on the so-called Urando Prairie, which constitutes the
(great berry gathering ground of the Indians.
With regard to the climate of the Peace River country, we are without such
laccurate infoimation as might bo obtained from a careful metcorologiwil recm-d,
|<3mbracing even a single year, and its character can at present be ascertained merely
jfrom notes and observations of a general character and the ap|)oarance of the natural
vegetation.
I It may be stated at once that the ascertained facts leave no doubt on the subject
lof the sufficient length and warmth of the season, to ripon wheal, oats and barley,
jwith all the ordinaiy root crops and vegetables, the only point which may admit of
|<juestion being to what extent the occurence of late and early frosts may intnrfere with
growth. This remark is intended to apply to the wholo district previously defined,
though it must be remembered, in considerinff the subject, that the conditions of
Diaces situated in the bottom of the trough-like river vaUey, and fJDO to 800 feet
Ifcelow the plateau, may bo considerably different from those of its surface.
The summer season of 187'J was an unusual one, characterized by excessively
heavy rainfall, with cold raw weather i.i the early summer months. These condi-
jtionsdid not extend to the west of the Rocky Mountains, but appear to have been
Ifelt over the entire area of the plains to the Red River Valley. As a result of tfiis,
I the crops generally throughout the North-wost were later than usual, and the mean
jtemperatureof even the latter partof the summer appears to have been rather abnor-
jmally low. Notwithstanding this, on my arrival at Dunvegan, on the iCJth of
August, email patches of wheat and barley in the gai-den of the fort presented a
liemarkably fine appearance and were beginning to turn yellow. On my return to
Mi;
^^'^y^'^::^^^^^^^ thoi..co.np,oto nponi.., havi,,
loauce and tui nip.. Dva.f bcann c^ -nm , ,, ^ ' ,* ""''"".^'"'•■N »>^ots, carrots, „„io„s
""J ll.ouyh Ihci plan... aro jSd' Te, K,, "'''/ "^l^/''^'^"^ ^'^''^ "'-^ HoM.-i.h^nl:'
u«t n.unu.l having 'boon how,.^. ;' ^.oV? itn.r 'in ' T ^'^'' •'^' /'-"''■ '^'''^ '^' I
•iMr rn.t. A few «talkH of In.liai c, 7 v.m ^ \ '"^ ''':''"'"" '"^'^'^^ '" Perlen p
thai .hj. plant would ripon it. s^d In d.^^Xttt '^'""""^' ''""«'^ '^ '^ imp/obab^
cuM„.dZ^nTHq^;;C,r: Zrbr';it" :'Y '>^' ^..^..^t, U. bean,
Thopoiuto tops were also .lightlvnipjled ^ f''"'^'- I'ut not completolyr killed
a. wa3 f Ln Srir;.;;!::; iijrtia^ir s;: 'i;:-'--'-^ '-■ -- 3-.. ha,
dittuuhy owinfr to froits. Ho has al... tr « 1 « ' '" f "" "^^^''^^''^ "^^ without
aHOortaipcd that wheat thr.vesSu this " | e T. f'"' ;'''^'- ^'^^'■- "■ ''• ^'""'>!" "''
vation also at the 'CVeoSottlomJnt ' wh; K • . ."""'^ '•'"^° ''"•'« ""^mpl- at cul.j.
on the border ofStur.eon jl 'i " u.t i S:!; Vw !' "T.'^^' '""'''-"* ^""' ^^^^ ^"•''='"
I^ako. and is at the a vei^age le -ol o the « n w I? K ' "^ ,"^" ^^''^ *^"^ "^'^^^^^^i^ Slave
Hero, on September I4th the nota oo nN, ' r "." ^''^^""on of about 2, lOO feet
nu.re k, than observed w't Those 71^' '''°? "''-''^"^^ ^''^^^^^^ by frost, but n t
qui-e npe, but the Incliins d ";' nt Jr/lh T^ "'?' 'j'^^'"''^^- '^''^ '"be- We
were very line, and carrots b.ets .,n,i • ^' '''""" *"'' "^out ton days. Turnins
will, verj litti; .are. S < r r;l vo"v rauTatT'' '?"."«',' *^^'^*'"^>' ''"'^'"a '
oomnlelely destroyed by mice, b'^o;^H,l''Vw of barley had been almo.t
finok-ads. The Indian, here we e.cVv a v^^^^^^^^^^ r^' '■■'?« ''"<^ with
whieh 1 have since been able co ibnvari to (hem bv \T, " r"''*'^' /'^' fe'"''^^'" «"«^^.
i-den & Co., of Winni|,cg. ^""^ ^^ t'>e kindness of Messrs. Stobart,
At Foi't St. Join,, 95 miles wo<it nP n„.
mountains, on July 2(ith 1875 Pmf™ w ■^""''*^^'''"'. '^"'l so much iiearer the
and n,any varieticiiofvegetHlLie^ra^e^^^^^ "'"'f" ^'^"' ^'"'"^'^^ oats, bar ^
garden. The oats stood near^ tive (ti hi'M.^-Jr'/l'^K'-, '^'"'.*^ ''" ' ^'8K«'' ^^n'. '
equal growth.* The barley and oats wSro £ .,? k ^"'' "3' '"ul made nearly an
Macoun Nvas informed by Charlet?e at If ul on- T "^T^ ^'"' ^-'^ «<" August. P.^of.
that in_ 1874 there was "o fms 1' on/t e tt of Mf.' ^'^ ':f>;;:"i'«'^ «till ft^rth'er west
In 1870 sowing commenced the las week in Anrff ^tL '' '*'" ^^'^ «^' ««Ptomber.'
irost on June 28th, but the fi.st autumn frost occ. I. ^".'i "'^l^"'"'^ '« ^ave been a
Mr. Selwyn found the potato toprstKeen in h •^''n *''?• ^^^ "^September, and
Cambie saw wheat flouWshing he'^'e i Ju^v ll h^ ""J'^'" "^ ^^^ '"'^"tb. Mr JI. J.
been cut down by frost. '«'«'« July last, but on his return in September it had
in the dttn'cVit%"uttio!r' Sn'^nfformU" '" ^'.^ ^'''"^^ ^^^-'^ -^ -Ketable«
the enow disappea'rs aboTt the m d,e of 7^'."]" weSfv "' ?""^"^'""' '^ «-'-'''«'
The nver opens at about the same tlmt^C^Zw!^ T"*^' '^^'P'"^' '* away fa^
April or first of May. The river iron e X h„ T ^'^" ^""Sins at about the end of
o^-«now,Iwa8told:«veral4 abSt^^'^^^^^^^^^ Thedepth
Horetzky's statement.f Mr. HoSrwas ais'o told t la'^fh' ^^^'^ ^^''^^"^ ^'"^b ilr.
5areuptothemonthofI)ecember,thoVr;;inri'^;I^^;^^^^
' oa the Pacific Coast, p.
205.
in
plolo n|»oriinir hnvitij;
liolwoeii lliD.so (liUc.
UIIm fbrinoil on (hu|
, bt'ot.s, eaiTotH, onions [
worn ditto tioiiricliini;'
f" of fmst. 'J'lio two 1
)our likely to perfect j
iJugh it is improbablo I
>i' Auf-r-Miit, the boans, .
01 completely killed!
y for Hotno 3'ear8, ha«
i oeusons not without
tN which ho jii-ocurod
About the duto just
v/oi'o badly cut down
Dund the potatoew in
i on the level of tho
Ii'. If. J. (Juinbieul.^o
udo attempt at oultj.
iu,ses built hylndiaiiH
stundofLefShcrSlave
n of about 2,1 00 feot
ed by fi-o>t, but not
0. The tuboi'b weie
ton days. Turnips
evidently cultivated
ly had been almost
Ljuito ripe and with
ly of garden .sood.s,
of MeMsrs. Stobart,
> much iiearer the
)tatoc,s, oats, barley
in ' JS igger Dan's '
ad made nearly an
h of August. Pi-of.
'H still further wewt,
loth of September,
sars to have been a
1 of September, and
> month. Mr II. J.
in September it had
mis and vegetables
egan, it seema I'lat
eeping it away fast,
t about the end of
amber. The depth
b agreeH with Mr.
s were often nearly
with the mouth of
November. Sir Alexander Mackenzie remarked tho san.o nlwencoof wnow in tho early
winter months of I'i'M. It wasonlireiy gone on April .ith, iTiKJ.and gnats and rnosiiui-
Ujos were troublesome on April 20/*= Morses almost invariablv winter ouL woll without
requiring to be fod. Hay shouN' be provided for cattle,' to ensure permit MitV>fy,
for a period of three or four months, ihough in .some seasons it is necessary to feed
the animals for a few weeks only. The Indians cf the ' Croii SeltlcirwMit ' on Stur-
geon Lake, previously referred to, winter their horses without any ditlicultv round
the bordei's of a neighboring lake, the shores of which are jiartly open. Froni Hiid-
gon's Hope, the horses are sent southward to Moberly's Luke to wintei-, anil ace >r(ling
to Ml-. Sclwyri, do well there. Lesser Slave Lake, with its wonderful natural
•neadows, has long been known as an excellent place for wintering stock, and is
referied to as such by Sir .J. liicbardson.
Some general idea of tho length and character of the seasons at Fort St. .lohn
may be gained by an exaniinatirm of the extracts from the jfxirnals from ISfiti to
187i, published by Mr. Selwyn.f The dales of o|)ening and closing of Peai'.t Uiver,
being an important duo to the mean tempcrauiro ot the region, may lie (juoted as
summarized by Prof. Macoun in the same report (p. 15()).
Ice breaking Jee drifting, first time
18K») April lit Nov. 7.
lr()7 " 21 << 8.
18(i8 " ^20 " 7.'
Htl!) " 2,i " 8
1870 " 2() .' ."..'....'!.'!!."".'.'."..'.'.'.*.*.' no record.
1871 " 18 "10
1872 " 19 .< 8.
1873 " 23 " 4
1874 " 19 Oct.;.].
1875 " Id
The average date of tho breaking up of tho ice may thus be stated to be
April 21st ; that on which ice i.s running on the river for tho first time, November 7ih.
In 17!)2 and, O'J, when wintering at the mouth of Smoky River, Sir Alexander
Mackenzie observed the ice Xo bo running for the first time on November (ilh, while
the liver was clear of ice on the 2.ith April. I have been unalile to find any
precise recoids of the dates of closing and opening of the Saskatchewan, but
Dv. Hector states these are usually the second week of November and the second
week of April resjjcctiv'ely. Tho Saskatchewan is a more rapid stroam than the
Peace.
With regaixi to the probable ditt'ercnce between the actual valley of the Peace
and the plateau forming the general surface of the country. Prof. Macoun ob-<orvps,J:
speaking of the vicinity of Fort Si. John, that notwithstanding the difference
in altitude the berries on the plateau ripened only about a week later than
thono near the river, while he was informed that there was about the
same ditforenco in the time of disappearance of tho snow in sjn'ing. While
at Dunvegan, I ascertained that a similar difference was observed there,
but it was added that this obtained chiefly with the wooded parts of the
plateau, tho snow disappearing on the prairies much about tho same time as
m the valley. In my diary, under date September 5th, I find the foHowing entry : —
" Aspens and berry bushes about tho Peace Iliver Valley now lo')king quite
autumnal. On the plateau 800 or 900 feet higher, not nearly so much so. Slight tinge
of yellow only on some aspen groves." This differen'^e, through not altogether con-
stant and depending much on diversity of soil, appears to bo actual. In October, 1872,
•Voyages, p. 131-132.
t Report of Progreis, Geoi. Surrej of Canada, 1875-76 p. 84.
t Op. at., p. 156.
118
Mr. Iloi'i'tzky writes ■ * i' w i ■ ■
"1.0" .1.0-.. „,,la„ I, di.i not am,' ar t.Tl'il.v'i I .'iL'u'.' ""'•'. <"""'''''.' "'^' vo^ofati,.,,
to the l,:mlv- of ,1.0 Ail.abasca. .■ . • m u, • ^ ^''" •^''^''"" '"o.k. ot I'ino J ivor
tho saruo period „ ij ,i^. 'i^j..^^ , . t^' .\"" "'''»" "' <;W.ivatiuns at (i a. m. ,lun„..
vat.uMs ,„..m.H t..,n,,orat,uo. for tifo ,no s '^^oasocd to ,]..,hKo fron. thcso obsor-
...blcs of hourly va! iation.s in torn , rUu o Sv n ZT''{' 'l^ rr^^'^T """" '^3' tho
Contn nit.ons to Kuo^vlod-o (No. 277) Imt t^n.l i, '^' ''^;'^"" '"»''« «'"i'li«onian
nvnyo rs he.o so nu.ch ^aoalor ha^ ti at of ^ v o 1 1 'l''""'^''^'" ^^ ''" -'. ''^ tl'o .laily
which rcfoi- diidly ,o Tho oastorn ,o t on r.f^.t pl'"'«Hro|.rc.sonto,i h>' ,i,o tal.lo.
whilo in m,.t pl,.f.os the -nea t j po S, "^ /'r, '-"I'-l^-t- /t wonl.i .t, ,,.,..• ,h
found in tho Poaco Hivoi- countiV not fi , ,• "'' " '■"'"''^'•' ''''""' « I • '"■, il i'
rapidity of lo«s of hoat by n il tin duo o ^1 oat t ''i "''. ''^^ '■'"■^"" '"^ "'« '■"«''^'^od
Tho maxin.um to.npa.at.i.-o wa/li; ro£e'.\S bu 'u/o'';'' 'l'''' '"•^■"'•' """-^Phe'-O-
tat>on Tho«ofro.tHo.euVodi™Snowof^^^^^^^^ «1.Du..vogan on tondor vog^
wind, tho result ot which in to rom^vrfmrthc «m5^ 'f"^J' ''">' "^ «l''«"fe' wosteHy
lower boated layer of tho atmosphcM'o Th . uc. . S i . ^^' ?'"'^'' '''" ^^'"^'« "^ tho
with transparent sky, cause, tho tho. .1.1. "^ V'"" ""'1 ('loudlosH night
boforo rnorilin,.. WhilM.ot ,..o cede. brZ .!". wi„7''' ^'^'"^ ^''" *''«--in«-p'^"
atmoHphero seoins .eldom or nevoi to load to ^^ • i ' '"*-''''? "'''"^Paroncy of the
bouutifully Htarli.Mit nighl« vvithout im it?, h^;^^^^
wore obtiorved. ^ "" appio.ich of tho inercuiy to bo froozing-poinfc
Though in some cases such frosts as fl ,,-a ^n k
wioed,s,netofc..,ntry,it k. mo ro ,sua ,v rrnd tSat t^^ '''"'^ °-^'<^"'^ «^«'-»
t«r. A few tloaiing cloud., or light w-otls of mis^ n ^ '"'" ''"''^ '"'''^' '" ^'^'^■■'^c-
to prevent trost over the irrea»er n-u-t nf i „ . ' "l'^'J' ''''''''''^ <adiation «o far a8
exposed during tho ^vlK>,o^;:;hru;;Za 1 T/jx;:,' teeTr. ^'"^ "'•^^'"""'"''^
i-.K .u *''' ''°"^°"'' »"'• t.ha..actor of vegetation of th?,^.fn, ^, ^^'^PO'-'t"™ below
with the o'-curronco of frost., and it is fery freauVnH. H '■^' ''I'" '^■■'^'° '"»<'h to do
more subject to frosts than tho upland diSrcL^ I ,^, T""^^''^ ''''''' ^""l«y« «'•«
m a region f ,r tho most part wooded, and oS above h^' ''" '"""'/' '^^ ^'^Ptember,
Dunvegan and tho AthaLka, nineteen frosts wor« .» •?">'\"''''"'^''' between
temperature being 20° on Septembe. 18th '•«i"«tered, tho actually lowest
^^^■^^X^ Mounted Police. I
wan, on the Saskatchewan R i'ver, aCt twontv mn<Jn ^"'■'^°'"«'-' «f ^ort Suskatche-
• Ouada on the P»cifio p. 44.
119
Xh, the vn>|o(iiti(iti
I tllO offoCls (»f'||(Ht,
•lit Ijoin^r <'Mflstuiit|y
ui" tlio winds Imvo
- very small, t li,iv„
f»y niysolt in iho
l<> Ihu iiliiloiin, and
Koik^ ot I'ino Jiivor
iJ*. Tlit> mean mini-
oiif oxtoti(Jin;r IVoni
• >* III (i a. m. duriti;,'
^>'- In Soptemlwr
I'liin^' Hl)sei-vati(»nM
J IVoin lho>o obscr-
''•tins: Ihcm Ijy iho
i'l the .SmitliHoniiui
do.s.), as (ho daily
Jtitod hy (ho tahlos,
vmlil ,i\ jK'ar that
al)out H |,. m., ii is
>'i oCilio incicasod
fJiyor lUinosphero.
»n«o is very groat,
ihJ often HUi'passod
■^l-on Iho l;^(hand
.'cly. lioihofthoHe
20lh) must have
on tondoi- voge-
<f strong westerly
1 tho whole of tho
id cloudlosa night
10 t'roezing-point
ispaioncy of the
<<iisti'ic(,usmany
bo iioozing-point
id extend over a
local in charac-
idiation so lar an
pot accidentally
nperatnro below
lave much to do
I'ivor valleys are
h of September,
Ititudo, botween
actually lowest
3unted Police, I
FortSuskatche-
dmonton. For
Jce Itivor coun-
rrounding Fort
jxperimentthat
whout iind all other ordinary cereals and vegetables thrive, andyiol.l most abundant
fi'ops. Tho climate in its great diurnal and anmial range corresponds exactly with
that of the I'oaco Uivci' country. Fort Saskatchewan is situated on the brow of the
Saskatchewan Valley, about seventy feet above the river, and therefore probably less
liable to frosts than either the bottom of tho rivor valley or extensive flat tracts ofplaia
whore there is little circulation of air. 'I'liis, with the position of tho tbcrmomotei-M
in regard to the buildings, loads to the belief that if at all in error, a^ rcpie-onting
the climate of the region generally, tho indicateil temperatures are slightly too groat.
The thermometer apjtears to liiive been read in all cases to the nearest degree only.
A comj)arison may be made between tho temperature observed in the Peace Rivor
country during August an i September, with those at Kort Saskalcliewan, as follows.—
Peace Piivor Country, mean of minima during August ',¥,)■ !P
" " •' September 28- 1°
" FroHts experienced during .\uguHt 8
" " " September !!♦
For Saskatchewan, moan of minima during August :j!V a°
'• '[ " September HI- 1°
" Frosts experienced during August
" " " September 15
Fort Saskatchewan, mean of maxima during August 77- 8°
" September (iS- P
Fort Saskatchewan, deduced moan temperature of August f8- 6°
" " " September 49- G"
The mean of maxima and actual mean temperature for the months cannot be
stated for the Peace Rivor country. The actual mean for Fort Snskaichowan is ob-
tained by adding the minima and maxima for each month together, and is probably
very nearly correct.
While regretting ih o .lui . at disposal for tho determination ot the agricul-
(ural value of the Peace liiver country are not more ample, W(, may I believe, arrive
•with considerable » < rtainty at the general fact that it is great. From such com-
parison as can be made, it would be premature to allow that the <limato of the Peace River
is inferior to that ot'the region about lidmonton or the Saskatchewan. It is true that
in both the Saskatchewan and Peace Rivor districU tho season is none too long for
tho cultivation of wheat, but if the crop can bo counted on as a sure one. —and experi-
ence seems to indicate that it may — tho occurrence of early and late frosts may b*
regarded witii comparative indifference. Thesoason is atloast oqually sho/t th-ought-
out tho whole tortile bolt from the Peace River to Manitoba, though early and 1at«
frosts are not so comm(m in the low valley of tho Rod Rivor. The aim t-^l sini iltane-
ous advance of spring along the whole lino of this fertile bolt, is indicated by the
dates of tho flowering of the various plants, a point rofone 1 to by me in somu detail
elsewhere.* It is further unquestionable that llie winter is less severe, and n it subject
to tho same extremes in tho Peace Eiver and Upper 8a^katchewan regions as in
Manitoba.
Wo have already found reason to believe that the early and lato frosts, and not
the absence of a suflBcient aggregate amount of heat, con8tituf<>s the limiting conditioa
of wheat culture in the North-west; but that neither the Saskatchewan nor ths
Peace River countries lie upon the actual verge of tho profitable cultivation of wheat
appears to be proved by tho fact that oats succeed on the Saskatchewan, and also
—in so far as one or two seasons can be accepted as evidence— on tho Peace River;
while it is well known that this cereal is less tolerant of summer frost than wheat.
This is further proved by the fact that at Fort Vormilion and Athabaska L ike, 180
and 300 miles respectively north-east of Dunvogan, Prof. Maooun found wheat and
barley ripening well; but in this instance the fact is complicated by tho circumstanca
•'I! I
* Geolog) Aid ReBoircea of the 49th Panllel 1875, p. 279.
120
a S
11
■I
Jnit:^i;:;^i"iL:l;Sed?;M"''''^;"'''^'^ int..duces a ne. condition. As n.
collected^ byPnTSofn t IS^S^i"/''^ '" Z''-*^ ^"rj ^^"^^ ''" '''^^"^'«" ^« '' >
though from it addTionXrlJn ' ■ '.^ "»* 'nciudod in the abcvo discussion
Reforrin/to the oull kept aTpS;;^^^^ IT^m' «^ "'^'^"'^ '<^ ^'"^ ^^^''^''^ tract:
several times^^.fcMTP. to "on>es fo thJ^nn i "^^hn, Mr Selwyn, in the report already
co,np..siavo,.ab,,with'9:flL^^^^^^^^^^^
f^or^^^^'Tl^^ZH:::;!^^ ''t'^^ -- ^f UrLcention.,,,
those of the eastern portion of hr, A ^^''"^ ■^"'°'' <:»""''•'««. "« compared with
valence of warm wes^ervindsf?ot^.'rP?PiHV '" ^ ^T"'^ ■" ^^^^ P^'
of these westerly winds in Ser wH in/ ' TK t"', ^'f '^"J^^"' Mackenzie speaks
that this wind never failed 7o hin^,. 1 7 m*"^ "'"if *^^ ^^''"''^''^'^ ''* ^thabaska,
from the opposite quarter it nroHnlH ^r^^ y^eaihev, whereas, when it blew
if it bio ATS hard ^mth-west fo?f.nri! """^/u ^^"'' [' '^ """"^ ™«''« perceptible, for
is at north-easUt b in^ eet am? now ■' T ^^^ "^ '^' ««"«°<l"°"f. a^nd if She ^ini
there is so little snowfr/hTs par of r^.« ^^ n" ^."'^ '* '"">' "^^ attributed that
Pacific Ocean, which cannot Fn a dL,M-'^°'''^- ^^'T r'"" ^'"'^^ «'"»° «« the
BO short that, 'though they nis ovei 1 T'- ^"^ ''""^ *f ' ^'"^"^ "''' ^^° ^'■^t'»»^'« being
for them to cool.''t ^ ^ ^^'"'^ mountains covered with snow, there is not time
andsTmih;r;oi"tot":arirvS''To\""'""'^ "^ '."'?^^'" =^^ '^''^'"-■^ -"j^/
ander ^lackenzie, howevei Tn the nmml r'T^r^Jf?^ '^','' ««currence. Sir Alei
coast from his wirerl'-Xce a^T« /J •^. '"^ the Pacific
appears to have imlSlt the time! « "^'^"^5 «* «'"ol^y iiiver, greater than he
difficult indeed, to trndeiandL™ remarks, -md it is
across a country wh"ch fsfor tZ ^ T ' 1 ""•-blowing for at least ;{50 miles
warmth to lempe. etfectunl v tl L nlTn't P'i.'-^'n^^^ta.nouH, should retain enough
would appear t o be p u t ( ularL ll't^hf ' ""^ '^^ ^'^'T" '°/''*^ ''''^- ^hi^ difficulty
enow.claVand.hem'lan emiir^^^^^^^^ * '° mountains are largely
bably considerably in excesTof that of th ^V'"'^«.«"d Saskatchewan Valley., is pro-
Hea. ^ *"'" "* t^^t °f tbe region intervening between them and the
late Jtr;!;|;j;?^^;:'^;!i;;:;;i;^^i[;-'l - ^l-, ^-at quantity of heat rendered
.ensible again on ^on^.^^^^^:: Z::;::^,^.:^^:;^ af "' ''''''''
the low:. ';:;:;:;; i? l^;: ;S ^-^^ ^he atmosp e.. bem^^so mS^; less than ia
tains mu.t expand which iZvir mni «°'^-'"^«' *» the summit of the coast moan-
and consoqne, t c^ iTnT S aSnTof tf "' ""'T'"' T^^ '" ■*" absorption of heat
Centigradi for loO mS ."es of Z«nf wi I '''""•^ '?''' ^'"''' estimated at about l"
degree when the tern neritum hZTu "^'^r/u^^ ,'"'' ''' ^'■^^' '^'^^ becomes reduced to i
cipitation ofmltu^l'^a; cloud ,±'?. '" ^be dew-point of the atmospher. and pre*
indentation retarding to a oortifideirr^^^ ''T •'r^•"■^"''"'^' ^'"""^ *bis
air. Wfien the air descends n?min?>^H <• "^'^^'-ng *i'>« to the expansion of the
its condensation leads to an infZ » f- ^•V?''?'" ■''^'*^ "^" ^'^« '"O'-ntain range,
metres. J It is owint tJ this c re ,m«t , '?k'1'''^ ''""^ *'^"''' ^^ ^° ^^ f«'' «««b 100
the west coast. d3 tL prev Ee n f ?n. ^h ' '^''T '" ''T """^'^ of Greenland, on
high interior, V, he cS;unt^-vZlh«l°^ South-easterly winds which flow over the
temperatnie higher Z" th^atof NoHh Tmi ' '" ^'"'«':' *« «^Porienco for a time a
Atlantic Ocean fVomwhi?h the win ^'' """ """ '""'^' *'^ ^'*''"'=<^> ^bough the north
treezing-pointat thi" season T J I'^'^nf''" ^^''« been little above the
anothe^Jxampl^o^rheTare-pheSmeZ' "'^' '"""" in the Alps as the foohn. i»
• Report of Projcregg of Qeol. Surrej, Cmnada, 1875-78.
t Voyages, p. 138.
t The figures are Dr. Hann'a. mmjArt b- Woi^nev-- .v sv r» • t. r-
•nd reproduced ia Nature, AugustVfsn. ' "°'""®-?'" »» the Danish Geographical aociety's Journal,
121
w condition. As ri,>
:e in addition to tlmi
!ie abcve discussion,
J to the fertile tratt!
in the report already
e of the Peace iiivei
[ontreal.
f the exceptionally
iS, as compared with
e found in the pre-
>r Mackenzie speaks
erved at Athabaska,
sreas, when it blew
ore perceptible, for
ice, and if the wind
be attributed that
yinds come off the
the distance being
V, there is not time
3 'Chinook winds,'
Lirrence. Sir Alex-
ance to the Pacific
r, greater than he
remarks, -ind it is
at least ;550 miles
uld retain enoui^h
^t. This difficulty
ntains are largely
■an Valleyj, is pro-
i^eon them and the
V of heat i-endered
ut which becomes
ho air.
> much loss than in
f the coast moun-
absorpiion of heat
mated at about T
)mos reduced i.o ^
mospher^ and pre-
Jsulting from this
i expansion of the
mountain range,
1° C. for each 100
1 of Greenland, on
ch flow over the
nco for a time a
, though the north
little above the
ps as the foohn, is
i»l Society's Journal,
The data are wanting for an accurate inve.stigation of the circumstances of our
west coast in this regard, but a general idea of the fact may be gained. We m.iy
assume that the air at the sea level is practically saturated with moisture, or already
at its dewpoitit, that in crossing the mountainous region the average height to which
the air is carried is about 2,000 metres ((j,5(i0 feet), and that it descends to a level of
about 700 metres ('^,296 feet) in the Peace River coun(ry. The loss of sensib'e heat
on elevation would, in this case, amount to 10° C. (18° F.), the gain on desc^ent to
the level of 700 metres to 13° C. (23--l° F.). The amount of heat lost by the air during
Its passage across the mountainous region, by radiation and contact with the snowy
peaks, cannot be determined. It is of course much greater in winter than in
flummv.r, and depends, also on the speed with which the current of air travels.
Takmg the mean summe- temperature of the coast at about 12° C, (54° F.) and
allowmg several degrees f I- , of radiation, it becomes easy to understand how the
western prairies may be ft ed with air nearly as warm as that of the coast, though
it has travelled to ihpm ov„, . region comparatively cold.
Owing to the great width of the mountain barrier, the main result is complicated
by local details, regions of considerable precipitation occurring at each important
mountain range, with subsidiary drier regions in the lee. The last of these regions
of precipitation is that of the Itocky 31ountaiii range, properly so-ialled. By this a
further addition of heat is made to the air, which then flows down as a dry and warm
current to the east.
In addition to the favorable climatic conditions indicated by the thermometer,
the length of the day in summer in the higher northern latitudes favours the rapid
and vigorous growth of vegetation, and takes the i)lace, to a certain extent, of heat in this
respect. This has been supposed to be the case from the luxuriant vegetation of some
northern region, but Alfonse do Candolle has ))Ut the matter bevond doubt by subject-
ing It to direct experiment. In latitude 5(J° which may betaken as representing
that of much of the Peace River country, sunrise on 2l8't June, occurs at 3h. 12m,,
sunset at 8h. 50m.; while six degrees further :.outh, in latitude 50°, which
may be assumed to represent Manitoba, sunrise occurs on the same day at 3h. 49m.,
sunset at 8h. 13m. The duration of sunlight, in the first case, is I7h. 38m.; in the
second, itih. 24 m., or one hour and a quarter in excess in the northern locality.
This excess of course decreases to zero at the spring and autumn equinoxes, and
the difference is reversed in the winler.
A fiirther circumstance giving to the Peace River country and that on the upper
part of the Saskatchewan, other things being equal, a value as farming land acre for
acre considei ably greater than thn.tof most parts of the North-west, is the immunity
of this region from the visits of the devastating locust or grasshopper (Caloptenus
spretus). I have elsewhere discussed the question of locust invasions, in several
papers,* and it has since been taken up by the United Slates Entomological Commis-
sion. f It must suffice to state here, that while long series of years may pass without
the occurrence of serious invasions, these must continue always, or at least for a very
long time, to constitute a drawback to the whole territory lying south of a line
drawn about sixty miles south of Edmonton, and thence nearly following the border
of the wooded country eastward and southward to Manitoba.
(2) General Geological features, and Minerals of Economic Importance.
The rocks of the coast of the northern part of British Columbia and its adjacent
islands, resemble those of the southern part of the coast, in the same line of strike,
and the Victoria series of Vancouver Island. The age of these rocks I believe to bo
not greater than Palaeozoic, though their crystalline and highly al'ered appearance
might, at farst sight, suggest a comparison with still older series. They may be
• Ossadlsn J^sturaliat, Vol. VIII., pp. 119, 207, 411.
t First Aaniial Report, United States Entomological Commission, 1878.
blancoof^.;moof ihoTo cits o -S^ "S'''°'' ^"S'««- Tho ro«om.
/MUMcJ ,n cnnocLi.,,. with I'hom oa hi« ,n t of t ,f '" I"'^r "^^ '!"'"*''>' ''"'^ l*""'
|.^.oo.at,.,n will, them in «orne nlL.! f*- 1 ' L '^^ *''" ''"'''''• -^'moHtono i.s found ia
•t-fsooiiition witii them in «oMio nl-u.,.« n. ~ ■="-"'■" i.i jounu m
^" thcH. .>,. the associated "/nds;,'cks J'h'' p''' f^,T°^'' '^ ''''''' P'^^^y f''"q"ont v
l.cctin>. ha. been done no ,% •mane , mhl k'''* ^^'^"7^' *^"^ ^^'^^^'^ much proj-
J'.g cupriforous vein han bL X" e^ed bv Mr" f'w ^^'" ^"'^hed A .^athe. proViH-
Jinmcdiatcly holiind the Hudson Eavr..,. V I ^);/^'^'^«y "'i the slopo of the bill
^ '''W<4(;hannel the ic"« a^^^^^^^
SimpMa,, but maHHivogranitero 4LE^ ^' chiefly «chi«tOHe, like those of Port
l""t'ably constitute the ^Z of man n ^'"''.'^f^ «««"'' «" the eastern shoi^o and
the ,n..HUh of the Skeena ^n^kT f^ It hm'.nhl^"' ■" ''• • '^' ^''' ^-i%'ton, at
'^.nuh.r in composition but coa .^eVin tt 'l^' l^!"".^'^^'?^"'^' ^'-'i^verHod by dyko«
r
r;vcr.bcdat 'fie Ba^ne tii^echangrthelrcg™^^ ^'^^ boulders and gravel of tht
ot these porphyrites while Mr.^S e nSm \ne fh!!r^K'"?*'"'"'°'>'''°™
mo a so similar, proving that the norihvri.k.^fv.f\ \*''® "'""*''* '" '^° Zymootz
JvMpkeerol, Eapid. where u short nort^ ,1 ' ^'''''' ^'T " "^'^^ extension. At
cai.oo is dragged is a rather col^ 'If.. '"^.^^ ^^e rock over which the
cai.oo is dragged is a mther "oa rseTaifed 1..^''"'"^^^ >;oclc over which the
jtppears capable of being quarried into bocks^nff ^"■'^"'t«' P''"bably intrusive. It
l<;:"tage which are nearlVvertiJa'and run S So'e N no'' w""'*'"« "'!'"^, P'«"«-^ "'^
ol high mountains abutting on the r^ver ahr..« K ■ i "' u ^ "' '"ag'ietic. The range
tally «„rli„|. i»> 0, ooon es|,lo, oii to n Bmall extent, but nover .y.tomati.
<i«.«cm.od with a »o„,iiraSo a^n "3„''>» "»"««■"» gene«lly, b,it becim.
--«e„.„ e.po.„™ Of gtl"f lo'-o'^'e^irl'-rS VnViitC tt
* Report of Progress, Qeol. Survey of Canada, 1876-77.
123
d liornblondo-schi.stN,
e, like tho8e of Port
B, ■ — ^^==
t,ho.e of the Nochacco'.crie,s crm; .IpoH cJlf^^ '''^^ '^°^'^*^^' ''^"'^ .'o^emUFng
guccKj^;:i?oSi;st::;:o:^^;i;i,::;;;^i;nb:' nfr- ^'^r-^" «^ *•- ^-t«e.
fbo firHl timo'. Thco a.-o «o rmogcrt o.rund j^^^^^^^^^ jl!' ".t'^ '" ^'"^ t'^'''^'^ ^«''
and on clo.so oxaminatio,, .mall frao-mcn s Tsorv n.r n ^^'.f they resemble coals,
represonting portions of individuaNtS wh^ .h .^ . ^- ''f"?'^ ?'''• '''"^ l"'obably
m«V be ibur,i. The c.rbonacoo , J^^ ^'^'l "^ .t^-rf'' '-"^^^^^ in theib'rmation^
tho .•odes at this place are very much £ t , l.of ,'.„ f t ™ "'" T '«"''*="'">•- «"d
HhcolH iH abundant' in some pari ot tt ilnmai " '" ""''"'"'' ""^ '"•^fe'"''"-
III the rugged mountainous country botweon' the Forks c^r tl,o «i , ,
lower or north end of Babino Lake (l„> ,•» .IV „ "!°V. • '® ^"^^ena and the
probably entirely of MesCic a^ ^md relomll , ,." '" " ''."'"''^ «^ ^he trail aro
kwatsalix to the Forks. TheytW 1 ,er. v 'm^J^ ^""";'/" "^« «'<^^''"h from
occasionally felspathic or rcpl JcS b^ ' ; fv itS !"? ?^ ""° "'" '"""'^^ ^"•"'"'
rocks. Carbonaceous shales incl imbSdo ?./! 1 f "1 7'"*-"""'es brecciated
found, and in one place a few mother tLSo V ^ *" > ' ''"''^ ^'^'asionally
i.nd south, but sub Oct to great iS S^ultiiv In .h^"l'!;i'''^/ l'"'"''^' "'"'^ ""'•t''
ilivei', near tl.,- po nt at which lie trail f.on L V i "" ^'^^ ""^ V'° l'=^^'^"-'^^'i-kwa
mentsreM.>n, bung coal were f u d but -onHin 1 t '""" '"'^ Sabine Lake, frag-
as a fu. am'tho appears?" ofth'^x^uuirvirbl^ ''' ^' "^^^"'
regior .s probab'li that MesozoLrcS o •\hr,Sd 1"^^^^^^^
Nprea., .., .^,» part of tho province, a belief confirmo.l hv ., I "? '''"^' '^''^'^'y
mens collected by Mr. Horetxkv in np/.rhh^ • ^^ ^ number of small spcci-
lant summer. ^ ''• -t^'-et/^ky i" ne>«hbounng regions, daring tho ex,.o>{ition of
relation to the Porphyrii 1^:J^'r:i^T]r:^ri ''"'" ''.'"'^
tliey must roprcsont, at least in uart ihp Pmi h^ • ' "PPears, however, that
Mands and (iuatsino Sound Jhiel'evnru even o^^ "'/''' '^''"'' ^''""-'"t'^
tho horizon of those of Comox and Nm,!!!'! "° "^'""^ "P^'""'^' t'' *"^'"''° '-^'k-^ of
true coals, and indicate,' tho poSil tv if nn? th k'^I''!-"^ ^'"" '^^ deposition of
coal bods of economic value i^ o mo i^u of tL t P''«'"^^'''ty- «f the occurrence of
eoaly materials collected by mysdf have Sot . h^l'^"' ?P««'?«"« «f «"mo of these
two collected by Mr. Horotzky and 'urll vso^ Jm «»bjected to exam inat.on, but
H>.rvey, are rep'orted on as foilows by mJ^C. Hoffman?""' '" ''' '''"'"''^^'-y «* '"^^
^Sur ^S^ f «f««,/<«^o« 37, nine miles above the Forks
matter. Colour of powder black with r f«inV k ^'''«?a tube yields water and tarrv
c^tod no coloration ?o atiHng soirtSo^^'rclsUcT^th^ ' ''^ ''''^''' ^'"'""-^
By Blow and fast coking the followirg results rere obtained .-
Hygroscopic water.. ^'""^ ^'°nJf ^' ^"' Cokitijr.
Volatile combustible matter!"."; ir.'o- ''^'^
Fixedcarbon i^^» 1909
Ash 42 70 3S-U6
40-90 40v0
Ratio ot;_ volatile combustible matter to fixed ^^^'^ ^^^'^^
carbon , _^„
1— Z-TS 1—204
n
n
1'.
ti#
124
II
r
By slow coking the under portion of the pow.ior alone was sintered the midHI.
/Vecjmm ?ate//ej Skeena, Station 65, ^,renfy knifes above the Forks
ok,cd lnF,6y,cl.U witer but .carc.ly any ■,„,,., m»ltor, evol™» howoi™ a f jn
Analysis by slow and fast coking give the following results :—
Slow Coking. Fast Coking.
llygroscopic wator 153 i-m
Volatile combustible matter .', nli^ ^.o-l'
S^^ --^^ 45.«1 If,
^^" 4524 45-24
Eatio of volatile combustible matter to
fixed carbon 1—639 1—5-97
Both slow and fu.st coking gave a pulverulent coke. Colo, of ash al most white
m. Jn ^T ^" '''■'^' f ''""^'^°^ f'-O"" M'-- Har.kin, when at the Frks of ho
Skeena. a small spec. men of true coal, apparent of excellent quality Th?s mate , a
rndu'ir'e'pC 'bV ro^^T' H""^^^f H-ver, about eighteen 'm^nrfi-orn'rhe" Jo b
t.,1-, u .P-?f- ^V'° Indians to occur in quantity. I was unable to visit tho
locality Nut It lies nearly on the strike of the carbonaceous beds seen near thlJnoith
of the Kitseguecla, on the Skeena, and may therefore occur in a roSneaX £
arSed ^"'^"^"^--t^ -«- '"^'^^ to procure a larger specimen, but thT has no"; Je?
foUows'l?''""''"''^''''''''''''""'^'' ^'"^'"'"^ °^ '^'^ ^°'^l'«n ^hich he reports as
black^bift wTh^"f in«r''^'°'?-u' ^f '^ -^n^brittle. Does not soil the fingers. Color l
DiacK, out with a just perceptible brownish tnge. Lustre dull resinonf W,.nnhZ'
concho.dal. Takes fire in a lamp flame, burning wth a brghtXmerwhi^^ howl,
Boon dies out on removal from the source of heat),with emffion ot"mS and al^^^^^^^
rmL"lr% ?T''^- '"^^^^vered crucible it produces alargeamouB
^n^^" 1", the Closed tube yields a considerable quantity of tarrv nroduct It^
powder dm not impart the slightest coloration to\ broiling soIuIi:,S of cau.S
An analysis by fast coking gave the following results :—
Volatile matter .„ ,„
Fixed carbon *"t7
Ash S7-51
l-i»7
100-00
125
8 sintered, the middle
a firmer coito. Ash,
rJcs.
vhat appeared to be
ISO latter oxfiibited a
ict columnar slruf-
il the fi Minors. In the
dves liowovor, a faint
icates no color to a
8 : —
Fast Coking
152
7-20
4-0*
4524
10000
1—5-97
of ash almost white.
I at the Foi'ks of the
ility. This material
les from the Forb,
18 unable to visit the
seen near the mouth
i horizon nearly the
but this has not yet
which he reports iis
II the fingers. Color
resinous. Fracture
ime (which however
['smoke and a slight
i a large amount of
tarry, product. Its
solution of caubtic
40-52
57-51
l-!»7
100-00
ir, owing to lack of
Deluded in the num-
5. The ash, which
tinated slightly at »
3s a coal of the true
In the present i •lolated nn>4ifi(iii r»f ii,„ ..„. ii • .
ills iii>lirii.l fl.,. I r.. I i>
as dose us po
Gold hi
manctit niii
-Ilio l»ill« t>elim,l the llu.l.soii Bav Dost on il„w.., f -i .■ ■
X. 1.-." li. (,n.... ) and hi^h "o." -weste I m h"s"^ ^^'^'' '^ ^^'''ko of
ing ,n .torial if opcnod below the f ros uLttl !ZL IZ'^^'' ^"T ^"""' '^""'^-
I vranl on the lalvo, sinulur rock.s prevail b it f Von ^ 't^?l ^f """ '''^t't-'L-o south-
Hudson Bay post t(> ihe head of the 1 ilcc r H ^ N a-tal-ku/. Alountau, and (he second
Ceck Kroup ol ,ho interior of British C In nbl n ll'' '"''^' ►" 'T"-"''^"' ^^ ^^o Cache
age, appear 1., fo,,„ the sub- , 'ture f h., ^ ? P-'oba ly Cuboniforous in
materials li. „..„ „„.,„, ,,„,, eha, S " , 1 ." "J''""'''^i .^''''^ Tortia.y volcanic
.-^ li'3 np.n M„.m, and characterize lorn, s retches ? '.bell T""'^ ^;?'^^"'«
limestones and n.aiblcs occur on the north !...>, I, .' '''''" ''""'"• -l^^'nded
Th. rocks of the portage, for o 1> n^ilo -.nm 'V '^^^ ^^'"'' <^- ^he lake,
whd. near the bead of S uart L^ke nm s?ve Z! m"'"'."' "'''"^'"' '" ''" T-'''tiary,
travcliir.ir cown S, nart F., J ;rK„°.'"^:T'.^^' ^T ' "'-"blondic granite -^'
limestones have already bcenesc.-iL* md ^n-l I n'"''^ ^T^'' J'""«^- ^hoso
Between Fort St James, on Stuart tX . . p "?"^ *t' '^^^ Carboniferous age.
rvwborn f.,.vn,.,.,i J.u k:V?"_^''"'?!'^''^'*^ ""^ i^ort McLcod, the surface is almost
hands of limestone. In the vicin-
er beds of limestone, arc found.
believes an ai-ea of Tertiary
nf,„„ r» Lignite was
L:iko l^iver, near Iroquois Creek, ror-ks with little don
ity of lort McLeod.rocks similar to these, but with thick
i>eattcied further down +
In • • ■'
to A^zSis s?r^ui^;?c:^s,s^i^^> ''^ f ^'"^^'"-' ^^« --^-t.
and slaty rocks, with occasion" banSs of o^a.Site ^ft sth^r'"''"'""*^^' ^^ «'''"«'<>««
Ueous and often very bricht with l„«*i f ^^^ sc^i's^s are generally mica-
minutely wrinkled. Those wLjfnf' «'":{«««« .^vhich are not unfrequently
a belt of country abouUwent^m W :a wS.hTnH '"'"■''"^* '"'"'.?' ^"'^ ^'^ they^occupj
oubtless many^inies repealed by fold inrfteseroX f ""'" ^ "* ^'P' ^^i^'"' ^"^
I -mestonos of the central i-ange of tl^^aKSvSfntn- l^T ^ ""''^'"''^ ^^^ "passive
rerous or Devonian age. Frol ?h fr |S£1? ' " ! ."f;!!^.'^ ^ear to be of Carboni-
eport of Progress, Geol. Surrey of Oi
afijort of p
nada, 1876-77, page I
tii, Geol. Survey of Canads, 1875-76
126
u
On he ni.p„rpartof il.o Mis.ncli.nea, numerous 'colors' mnv l,o obtaino.I on (ho bi,.
et the nvor, and while ,t is j„„sihlo that rieh auriferous .lei..>Mls may yet ho founl
hero, U Hhoukl he montioneJ that the rocks are not so extensively traversed hv ,,u. i
veins as in the Hiir hnri r^(r!nn •' •> *l^'"^i
veins as in the Curihoo region.
iK , ^i: 'V^'*'.""'''"^'>',"",f'^" "'"■^•'■''°«^«'"" extension of (his belt of schistose rock.
Xll^f, T'''' ^'" '' ^'"'"■'•"^ '" "'^"''*'^^'- '^'^^ '^"«^" auriferous localities here lie
about hfty miles north of a line passing westward from the Piue Pass by Forts McLood
and St. James There are three routes by which Omonica may be reached. First from
the coast by the Skeena River, Babine Portage and Firepan Pass. Tl s 'oi, T
travelled by canoe and on foot. Second by trail from Fo.t St. James, practicable f,
pack animals; and third by canoe or boat from the eastward by the P^ace and Fin
^ZT- ^"Tf,^"^,<r''i".S !"to details, a glance at the map will show how
])]etely isolated this district IS, and account for the scarcity and high price of
visions, which has prevented the working of any but good paying claims and hindiid
the thorough examination of the country. • ^ o xm iuliiu
Some facts in connection with this district have boon given by me in a previous
report,* but it has never been visited by any member of the Geological Survey Tho
main points which seem to bear on the possible future of thodistric^t are as follows --
The existence of rich deposits of gold, and the possibility that with greater facility
of access the known area covered by these woulcfbe increased, and that it would S
come possible to work those of a lower grade. The occurrence of pellet.s of U' li -e
^ZZ''T]^"Vr""°'""'r "":'). '^.^ sold. It may not be /bund possible I
t ace (1, > inaterial to veins ot workable dimensions, but its presence seems in ....n. '
degree to shov.' (he general argentiferous character of the district. The chief oromix.
ot (uture importance as a mining centre seems to lie, however, in the fact that hi.rhlv
u-gentiorous galena occur in some abundance, and. it is reported, in wcll-detine'il
an wide veins, rhese ,t is at present impossi ble to utilize, o.ving to the cost of lal.oi-
nd carnage but the subjo.ne.l particulars may serve to give 8on-°> idea of thocha-
ucter 01 tne deposits.
According to Mr. Woodcock, of Victoria, some of the most important veins to
in the vicinity of a stream called Boulder Creek. '
That known as tho " Arctic Cii do " is said to be about twenty feet wide and ta
show aboul four feet of highly metalliferous ore. It is exposed by the brook in '
face about thirty feet high. The claim adjoining this is calfed the '' Black Warrio"
and shows a vein eight feet wide of nearly pure galena. Olher specimens have be '«
obtained from places within a radius of eight miles from this locality
JNcar Lost Creek a vein known as the "Champion Ledge" is found and runj I
nearly parallel with tho stream. Particulars as to its size are want^nci ' Ano
vein in tho creek is reported to be twenty feet wide. ° ^°°"'^'
Mr Woodcock ha« favored mo with copies of the following analyses of two sneci-
mens of the ores from this district, by Messrs. Johnston, Matthy & Ca Lond^S, Eng-
-i
J 1
Arctic Circle Vein.
f^^^** • 26-80
^V«" 2-50
I'l^t'- 013
SJ"'- 635
^'»«^ 61-60
Alumina ^,.^
Combined water '. .'.".'.'.'.'!.'.*.'.'..* 0-95
Oxygen and loss '.*. .'.'.'.'.'.* ' ' ' \ q.2't
Silver equal to 44-2 oz, per ton of 20 cwt.
• Report of Progress. Geol. SurTnv of Osaada IStS^'l'l p, 119,
12-7
13 obtninod on Iho ban |
lis may yot bo foiinl
sly tnivor.soil by (luaiiz
olt of Hcbisto.sd rocks
ouH biciilities bore lie
Pii.ss by Forts McLood j
bo i-eached. Fii-nt fVom
Pass. Tbi.s roulo is
James, pi'ucUcuble i'm
the Poaco and Finlay
will hIiow how com-
lid high |)rico of pi-
g claims and bindorod
I by mo in a previous
ologic'il Survey. Tho
trict ai'o as follows ;—
; with greater facility
and that il would I*
of pellets of native
bo found possiblo to
esenco secm-i in Mm>:
3t. The chief promin'
n the fact that highly
M'tod, in well-detinell
ng to tho cost of labor
mo idea of tho char-
; important veins are
mty feet wide, and to
)d bj' the broolc in a
tho " Black Warrior, ■'
specimens have been
sality.
" is found, and runs j
) wanting. Another
malysos of two speci-
& Co., London, Eng-
26-80
260
013
6 35
61-60
1-40
0-95
0-27
Sdyer, por ton, 4()H1 oz. or $52 76
trold, trace.
Pig lead would contain about 50 oz. to the ton.
Black Warrior Vein.
Lead
Iron 2025
Silver 215
Sulphur 09
Silica 4-80
Alumina "'.'.". .7.'.'.".'.*.'.'.".'.7. ^'''^0
Combined water.. ......". ^'^^
Oxygen and loss.. ..'.". I'f'O
1-41
Silver equal to 29-8 oz. per ton of 20 cwt ^^'^^'^^
A second assay of the " Blaclv W-iiTim. '• u„ nr t-.. ,
Told, per ton, Xoz
Silver do 32Jtoz '. « 2.06
/^ 41.89
Clean galena would assay, $131 85 343.95
Assay by Messrs. Riohn, Hemme & Co., San Francisco —
Gold, per ton
Silver do $6-28
9113
$97'41
Pig lead would contain 207 ounces to the ton
di.r^t:^;^::,:;i;sr;;^ s:'\£Sn^:r s;;s^r^'i^^rf - ^'-'^ - ^'- -™»
oz,of silver to tho ton, with t aVos o7' old I mt ^ ! f T ^'"^ ''^""'^ ^'^ '^""tain 8-971
confined to the galena of vvhi h only a maV ouanHtv^^ '"r'^''' ^''"^'Iver b
which must consequetAly be hiLH?lya!CtfLSs^L^^ •'" '}'' ^^in-stone, and
rom the Arctic Ci^-clo vL, soi^rL' ^Sf rr\>ots?blo°'^om «,'^''^'^'""P''^«f g"'ena
laboratory of the Survey, gave 128 oz of silvo, t^^^hl . ? '"''' g''>"J^'»o> "n the
the Champion Ledge, inc uding galen^ and Ian .1 h * ^ .f/P"^''"«n of ore from
(ton and a trace of |old ^ " gangue, showed 20 oz. of silver to tho
,-^^^:^^s^Xi:si:^r::i!^s?^^^ — '» ^i. the
and constant in character, tho re< ion mVs be on i..^? ''""' f° «"ffi«iently large
|ofaccess to it arc provided *- '''°"'" '""^^ '^'^ ^^ importance when sufficient means.
proportion of galena contained P>cc.ous metals are calculated to tho
l-^^te'^o^^^^^^^^^ been informed, about sixty
[eventy India^s,^he latteTricfivl'ig w~s hb ro/sTg a'^'r'T"' ""^^ f^^'^^
\^ however. th..t these f^gures^be rattt-Xve" tJe maS'thanTeliw'r *^
128
\.
;«
To tlio noiih-onst of tlio scliisloso rocks, and iijiparontlv nriiloHyiiifr thorn 'ii,.
tho nia.sm-c limestones wliicli form tlio axiui niounluiim of tho liockv Aloiint.'iin
ran^re. Ihcso, in tlioii- direelion ofHtiikc, .-.lo parallel to tho .ireneiuil nokh-weslo'K'
and .soul h. easterly trend of the ranire. Fr..m the line of tho M.nunit, or A/.ouzetta
Lako \ alley, tho width cftho limohtones and other old roek.s measured IransverKeU-
ih ahotil live or SIX miles only. On the north-eastward side of tho ratua-, tho limu.
atones i.eeonio assoemted with (|.mrlzite8 which may bo of greater a-o, and will,
l)laekish shales and slaty roeks holding Monotis suhdreulans, and thereloro to b.
assigned to the Iriassic i.erlod. Those roeks oi the ax' . of the momitains are u.t
known to be ol any oconomic importance, though in some places capable of yieldin-
building stnno oMair quality. ' Colo.V of gold may be obtained in the uni,;
])art of the I'lne Jvivor, as on tho Alisiiichinca. '
From the point on tho upper Pino l{iver last described, rocks i)robably for the
moKt part o; (.retacoous age, but j.ossibly ].assing up into Tertiary in some plau^
extend over the whole upjier i)art of the basin of the Peace Jfiver. A lino drawu
from this point iiurth-iiorth-westward to near the confluence of : lie Otter Tail Kive-
with the 1. ace— a distance of about forty-five miles— probably marks with approxi'
mate accuracy for a portion of its length, the Junction of those newer rocks with the
main ma-s of the o dor rocks of the axis of tho mountains. There is ovidenco thai
tins line is nearly that of the shore at the time of tho deposit of the Cretaceous rock>
and that tho present ax-al elevations of the Kocky Mountains have stood as an islar.l
or IS ands above the Cretaceous sea. Chcrty fragments, like those associated
with the limestones of the mountains, are found abundantly in tho conglomerates and
windstones of the newer series. The existence of the remains of ],lants, and of Houiib
of coal 111 different parts of the newer rocks, show that tho sea must have been a
shallow one, and by occasional elevations, patches at least of its bed were, from time
to Lime, converted into land areas.
It is in these rocks, forming u zone to tho east of the Rocky Mountains, that tlie
most iiron-ising coal-helds of the North-west lie. and they are now known to k
.cha,-acteri/.e I by the jiresonco of coal from tho Peace Eiver to the 41itli parallel,
Their study is consequently attended with interest, and much additional lilrht has
boon throvvn upon it l>y the examination of sections in tho Peace Jiivor re<'ion last
Mimmer. lil maps are complete, and the whole of the observations i.rop'orly di.
cussed, It would be unwise to attempt to enter into dotal', but some points bearing on
tho carboniferous character of the formation may bo "ivon.
Jn tho vicinity «)f the mountains, tho rocks are inuch flexed, but the undulatiom
gradually lessen as the mountains are left behind, and the b^-ds become at leiijjth
horizontal, or so neaHy so that no inclination of a fixed character can be detected by
ordinary methods. Near the mountain- tho rocks are almost entirely sandstones,
and often quite coarse and associated with conglomerates. Further off shalv inter-
calations appear, and eventually two well marked and thick zones of dark colored
Bhales are found, separated by a zone of sandstone and shales, and capped above by a
fiocoi.d saridstone and shale formation, which may possibly belong to the lower part
OI the lertiary. ^10 i \
In both the horizons characterized by sandstones coal is found, and
while as above stated the upper may represent a portion of the Tertiary, the lower is
certainly well down in the Cretaceous formation. This in itself is a point of consider-
able importance, showing that the carboniferous character of tho rocks is not confined
to a single series of beds but recurs at two stages. It also, probably confirms the
view advanced by Dr. Hector and supported by Mr. Selwyn, for the Saskatchewan
country, as to the existence of a coai-fcearing horizon in the Ci-etaceous of that region
in addition to that of the Tertiary or Laramie age
The localities in which coal is known to occur'in the lower or certainly Cretace-
ous zone are r-lable Mountain, Coal Brook and vicinity, Portage Mountain and tho
lower part of bmoky JRiver. 1
«n . Mvu? ^''";i**^°A' '^*"**^ ^." ^^V"^^^ ^"'' *^f ^'"« Ki^«»- between the Lower
and Middle Forks. It was examined by Mr. Selwyn in I875, who describes the coal :« {
129
indoj'lyiiijr thorn, iin
till) lioclvy MoiiiiUiin
:oiioral iiortli-westeily
Miinniit, or Azouzetta
lU'fisurod tiaiirtveiijL'ly
1' llio riiiige, tlio lime-
;reato)' ago, and with
and llioioloi'o to be
lio nioiinlain.s aro uoi
'.-i cajjablo ofyioldiiii;
jtained in tlio uiijiw
icks ])i'()bably for the
•rtiai'y in some plaios,
iver. A lino drawn
:lic Otter Tail Kiver
niarl{8 with approxi-
newer rocks with the
3ro Ih ovidonco ih;it
the Cretaceous rock\
avo stood as an iHlurni
ike those associalfi!
tie eonglomoratos ami
jtlantH, and ot'soanb,
I niu^t have been a
bed wore, from time
Mountains, that the
) now known to be
to the 411 th parallel,
additional light has
CO J{ivor region, last
nations )>roperly div
mo points bearing on
, but the tindulatioiu
8 bocomo at length
cr can bo detected by |
entirely sandstones,
ther olf, shaly inter-
nes of dark colored I
id capped above by a
ng to tho lower part
Dal is found, and I
rertiary, the lower is I
s a point of consider-
rocks id not confined j
)bably contirras the
■ tho Saskatchewan |
iceous of that region
or certainly Cretace-I
;e Mountain and tho [
between the Lower
describes the eoa! :« !
ns'ulr;™;':;;;:,;'""""'''"'-'''''''"'' '■' ■"°''"'' ■"»'■' >"*». '«■»
foot and
Harli^ton'r""^' '''''''' ''' ^P^""- ^^ «-^' ^-^ this place is published by Dr.
■Wj,jj,,. _ Slow cokinjf. Fast coking.
Volalilo cornbuVtibio*raa\'tor".'Z.'.' J^.l^, .,^-1?,
Fixed carbon r!"'* -''■^■*
Ash ^Ifi^ G808
4-73 4-73
10000 100^00
By ^Sd^aSg t(:^^^r;^r f S^t 'ai::!^:? '"^ 'f'- ^^^teoking I-2.7I.
an a fuel of excellent quali^Xrocmirii^^^^^^^^^^ '•°'l'«°t8
claim importance. ^ ""y^ only loquiung to bo found in sufficient quantity to
iueiS"inL;;:S;t w,;u::::r"s:E.;f i^''°T" z ^'? '««'^- ^^^'^^^ «-- - -
abundance of impressions of^'o , Is a K, W ^'""'- ^^'^'^ "'" ''""•^ "'' l''«
carboniferous character of Uii fo,m-^tt)n In '"•*':" ^'V"^''^""" '' «'"*^^'^ •"'^''-''y the
mit ofthe scries of sandsto n^s o mfn r hn ' '"""'• ^' "'^P'^''^'''^ "^^ ^^'^ ^"'T h"™-
overlying bluish shales ^ ^^^ '"'^'" «''""P' '^^ ^''^i'" Junction wilh tho
-^^^S^'^SSl:;^:':^^;:::^^ -nes ^.m Dunvogan,my
lignite coal of i,ilbrior«ual,>TdabltK-;'' '"="?' ""'''"'' P™^'"*^ '" ^^ ^
ignite is also reported to occuV "„ £^1.^? '"''l^v ^"'^' '" ^'""'^"O'^"^- «0"1 or
but tho locality was not visited ""r/^^ . T^ /^^"u*"' ^*^*'''" ™"«^ "bovo Dunvegan,
lower or disti,fctivoirCroaceous«oieiof'^%'^^ ^'"'•^^ P'"''^'^ '^ i« the
, Of localities sho^wh g S '^"^^^^^[^^^"'^f/^"^ '^"^ «''^t«? which^ hokl the coal.
slates, which may, so far as present iSl^..f "PP^'" ''^''"'"•^ «^ sandstones and
of the Crotaceou; or the ovoi W Wnm ^'''°°'' •;«P?^«"^ the upperm ,st part
Creek, joining Elk River about i^ftv ok r/^''''''"-"P 'i-^' ^^''^ discovered is Mountain
Dunvegan. Tho beds found here SlL?''"' ^f a d.roction nearly duo south from
a.e strewn with Uu-^e blocks whir «nn^ I" q^'^V"?'"' ^ut tho bars in tho stream
nite, and aro of good qSty a^ a fuel^PTh ' ""^ bitu.ninou. coal rather than lig-
•Report of Progress, Oeol. Survey of Canada, 1875-76, p 63
tRep<.t of P^ogres., Geol. Survey of 0,„aia. iS76-77. table facing p 470.
ISO
If:-
of the Elk. near ilio baso o( tlio upper Hiind-doiio Horios, a soiim nf irood coal flvo
inclicft in tliitUriOfH watt neon. Drill coal I'l.iind on tho upper part uf tile main Smoky
j)robal)ly aino ln-lou^'s (o thin iipj)or sandwtono wericH.
.SaiidHloncH ami hIuiIcm, which niiyht represent eitlior tho up|)er or lower scries
above rcforied to, occur on tho Athabu.s( u Kivor, and were observed in many i)itij.'oii
above Uld lAirt As.sinelwino to hold coal ^camw. Two of these were noticed to bo
of remaikablo persintency, and thoiif,'h generally thin, the uj)j)cr t<eam was found
in one |)lnce to measure ten feet in thickness, including' however ii few shaly part-
ings which would reduce tho thickness of ^'ood coal or lig lite to nine teet two inclius,
This is Hcpaiated by about twenty- feet of soft sandstone from the lower seam,
which is compact and of gi.Mi appearance and about throe feet in thickness.
On a stream entering Loshcr Slave liiiko from the north, near its eastern end,
Mr. McConiioll observed numerous fragments of lignite of good quality, but all con-
sidorahly rounded, showing that they had been brought from some distance.
It would thus appear tbatwiiile in the region lying between the Athabasca and
the Pence rivers, no coal seams sullicicntly thick to bo of great economic value have
yet been discovered, that coal and lignite of good quality occur in two distinct]
series of beds. Wherever luUural sections of these occur in the valleys of rivers and
streams, coal in greater or less quantity is found, and the persistently carboniferous
character of the beds thus t'bundantly proven. There can be little doubt that beds of
a workable character occur in different parts of this region and will bo found by
further search.
On the extension of these formations to tho south-eastward, a bed of coal, reported
to be eight feet in thicknens, occurs near the projected railway crossing of the North
Pembina Rivei-, while between Fort Edmonton and the mouth of the Brazcau River,
on tho Saskatchewan, a seam of coal fifteen to twenty feet in thickness was dis-
covered by Ml'. Solwyn in 187;^ ;* other thick "seams are reported on the upper
part of the Brazeau.
An analysis of the fuel from tho North Pembii^ River made in 1874 by
Prof. Ilaanol, gives tho following composition : —
Water 11-88
Volatile combustible matter 28'66
Fixed carbon 57-25
Ash 221
10000
Tho coal collected by Mr. Selwyn at the place above referred to on the Saskat-
chewan yielded to Dr. Harrington tho following result on analysis by slow coking:— I
Water 10-09
Volatile combustible matter 2869
Fixed carbon 64:'96
Ash 545
100-00
While neither of these can be classed as true bituminous coals, they are fuels of j
great value, and compare closely with those brown coals used extensively on the line|
of the Union Pacific Railway in the Rocky Mountain region.
In many localities on the Peace River, and between that stream and the Atha-j
basca, clay ironstone in nodules and nodular sheets is abundant; but generally not!
in such quantity as to justify a belief in its economic importance. On the lower parti
of Smoky River, however, great quantities of ironstone apparently of excellent qualiiyl
might be collected from the bars and beaches, while in few places in the bankj,|
zones largely composed of ironstone and of considerable thickness occur.^
• Report of Progress, Qeol. Surrey of Canada, 1873-74, p. 49.
181
m i)f <^oo(l coal fho
rt of till) main Sinnky
ippor or lower series
jrvod ill iniiiiy pliuios
I WL'ro iioticod to be
ijier soiim was tbund
jvcr a (ew slialy part-
3 iiinofcct two iiK lies,
om tlio lower soam,
it in thic'knoKH.
loar itH oastern end,
d qualitj-, but all con-
me (listanco.
n the AtliabaHca and
economic value have
;cur in two distinct
vailoya of rivers and
stcntly carboniferous
tie doubt that beds of
id will bo found by
i bed of coal, reported
crossing of the North
f tiio Brazeau Eiver,
1 thickness was dis-
ortcd on the upper
r made in 1874 by
As alr-ndy stated, gold in Hmall qnantity mav bo f,)un.l !n hnth H.n \r- ■ i •
«mi upper i.art of Pino River, while I statM W^sX V ,1 w . Misinclmict
timoto time, in various nlacos mil in ,L\.:!, ■*"•. '^Jlw^n it has boon f.)und trora
Peace below Ki.day liranc J d 'jels | V Tr ■■'™ "?,-""l''*^'";i"^' •''^''l" on the
river may have boon oSkX . Ko^ h m ^^ ^^"^ lower part of the
mountai.M.ormaylKnvobee uTic^ Zn^^^ .^^ u •? "" ^'>° ^^"^'o'-" "lopo of the
I rocks formin^Mho^ h-oS n C.^^^^^^^^^
Lake Suporio"- to the A t ic oLn F^^^^^^^^ ^n'"'"' '''"'* «trotchin:,' from
tin. Peace, the f>..M,er appears to mo ^> bo H^ ' "\ "'*" ^^Vr^' ""'^ »PP«'' P'^'-t of
I that found in the A i, Enea tlu« F inn .„ I T' K' ''^^''^l"«-^I>l'in''t!on, While to
mountains a local ori,,i"nM;"u;,;o^^^^ '^'"'' ^^^^"^" '" tho vicinuy of the
I contour line may fur ihf l"en b^ <t iV s?3 i "o loT. ^ ?•'""'': "' '''''
to the cast chara«teri.(3 i by f. u.rei.t SL/ h d^^^ ' '"'''• . /^ " ,'" ^'"'^ *'""''*
Saskatchewan aro situalo.i wl irirthe Ih^tfo 'r '^ r>^iyi"i,'.Kold-washin.,rs of tho
to run out where the Lauron' ^ ift c ' so P J '" ""T^T"^^'. ' 1'"^ ' ■'M^Poa™
q.mntitics in .ho p.r.s c,f ? o Ath. Ir s'. .^ i i" ' 0^^- "' ^Z ^""'' '" '"'^'"«
GKORGE M. DAWSON.
i.
11-88
28-66
57-25
2-21
100-00
red to on the Saskat- 1
)is by slow coking :— |
10-09
28'69
6-4-96
5-45
100-00
als, they are fuels of [
tonsivoly on the line I
tream and the Atha-I
t; but generally noti
On the lower parti
y of excellent qualityl
places in the bankjj
cnesB occur. '
182
HEI'OKl- ON TlIK
APPENDIX No. 8.3
AdUICirLTUHAL OAPABIUITIKH OK VANOOUVEB ISLAND, UX MB. Jl..-,EPm
HL'NTEB.
Nkw Wksiminhteb, U.C, December, 18"
tlio affricuhumi cajmbilitioanf
lis of 2;}i'l June lii.st.
Sin,— Ibci,M(. Hul.niit tlio followini,' report o.
Vancouver Jsla„,l i;, (.o.nplian.x. \vi(h your instnicl, „m o. :.',„■.. jnne laM
uvera 2 c^uUh ut 50 ,n " T" '""^"'/."".V^ t"'^-" "^ 280 s.at.Ue miles, an.l i.
f.^J^^« I VA . ".r ■ ' '^^ '^'O'-n^ therefore, about 8,0 ;0,000 acres Its ..v
tremebreail(hoj)poHitoN()otkaS..un.listOmiIeH ,""" "c.cs. its ex.
arms oi^lnbr' 'r'lh' '"'"' «""'''^'''''";'y "''>"^' <'"' wo'^t coant, i.s broken by numerou,
iHro;i;?s;:;rii;::;u2!;::,;f •''■ "''"" '^"'•^^'" ""^''^' ^'-"^ -" •- i>-ontiy -defined,
wo„/i'r^''"?,''*'"""''.'""';'""°'''"'^^'" ^'•'^•" it-^ <^"^t(.rri cxtromitvtoFortRunort
wouM form the northern limit of the hii,M,e>t interior mountain raLes while ''
Bonthern !,:n,t may be define-i by a line>,ining Cowlchan Ilarbo-u-^wi'tirK-t S
ally hllornMlied \Vl'" '"'f- '' '7""'' 'Y limits above dencribod, nItbouRh occasion.
?&; . ' J-^ '' ;?r^ of con.s.derabio altitude, is of a low, rolli.^r or lumpy
c aHtlino; j j;, ^7' '^°''^'\^ "</''« mountain slopes and the houi hern and eMsleV
m e b^.uth w,l /m"''^''" ''^ '^on.parativeiy flat land, varyin^r f,on, two to ,,.
S;t::;s'^:;:£:^|;;;:,:^.';;;j;;--j-'^--^' ■" -- i-tanees.fbr consider.,.
Hivo rSXli'"'' "";."i»''''f"i"\of tr.e interior, and protected by them from cx.o.
apnea; i ortl':::?;:.r/'^V,^''^ '"^^ ''^"-^'^ '»• ««»tainsfas will afterwar ,
Cen't agricultural land known to exi.t, or susceptible of proKtable sol-
JJeiiablo information respecting the interior of the Island, con.siderin-r th-it tho
i::';sT^XTz ''"" '^i'^" -"'-^ "1' --«^ ^858, is asL;;:uhh;;;y t ^:
uncle tl rcomm- n 1 of n;^ r/'i ?V'''' ^T'^r'^ ''>' ^'>° (Government m.d people,
of \^ ,K. ,u^Tl" i ml T • ^^''''''^'' .;«''»^^"' *'"• tlio purpose of exploring the intcHoH
in J 11^ f • T"^ expedition, compose iiu all of CO persons an.l diviMed
iowi;i;^;;utos^"" '" "■* '•"•^""^^^'"-■-'^ •^-'-^-l- -q»orod durmJ the season the S
1. Across the Island from tho mouth of the Cowichan River to \itinat
2. I- rom the cast end of Cowichan Lake to Port San Juan
a. 1< rom Sooke Harbor to Cowichan Harbor
5' A?iZ Ih^ f f ' H /'■"'" S""'"-^' ^y ^"'°''"'' t« Barclay Sound.
0. Acioss the Island from Nanaimo to Barclay Sound
<.. Across the Island from Alborni to Qualicum.
referenU to^ho lowlrro':!:"',''' *^™>'"'^'">' ^5 miles of land travel, it is reported, ia
I)l-icoTflr/w f h 1 ri?''''" ^'^*''"' *^'''^' '' t'^^ mirrounding country is in most
ceilent, and i, wuuk. pay abundantly to clear them for the value of the timber alone."
i;jy
LANK, ur MR. JdftKPU
C, Dueeinber, 18";t.
bo l)i-e.sontly'defiiie(l,
iv to ^iitinat.
VTill. roforonc. to (l,o land i» tho interior, it is stato.l th.it " pntohoH of ....o,i land am
r;linv -.riLiir. '^" ^'^ '^''^'- «'■ ''^'^y ^'--^ ''-•« * ' -»-»' k--^ '-!?"'";
So<.l<!;*Rivoi"w!mrril!';'^'* '"!'"'•'" '"'1*^"'! "'■'«•• '"'"-inff tho vicinity of tho mouth of
M(X>koKisei, whoro tho country is hmi.I to l)o lovol ami tho m,!! l'ckI, "tho co.mtrv
ym^Mu ho westward consists of conic,,! hills covorod with yL, -cry ittio S
mlr., I " Tr'T"' " ''• ^"'■^' '■"-""'■ '•""■^i^ti"'.' ^f ''oeky c'miMor,c<vs^vory thinly
tin horod Iho o.dy mention of .....'..ulmrul land on thin route is in resncct to the
valley of a HmallHtroam falling. , a„ «. oico Luko, which -' «emns to cS,. gollj
On t^hc fourth roitlo, ^^, niil.i.., wii. ut 8nocifyin<( particular loc-ilitios ihi«
Sluvatio;;.' ■'""'' '^ "'^''- " ' ^ I' -^ - '' --h tiibo-r iSnd St.. bo broS't i^
the vZ "coS'.' '■"" T *!? "'""■'• ; : -'"^•'^ ^"'''"^ '" '•"^^'••^'"^« t" the country near
> IdJ, Ice'-' 'T.r ':'"•■ '; ''"7.":-'«"ht '"'t ''««'■" iH«ooda.ricul,uraimna
wp 1 ■ ^^"^'' ^';T'"K throo d.stmct ranges of mountains, on approaching the
an ,rv;i ;"vT^''^ r" ,"'^«';'-"«^«'V'''^ ^'^'''""^ ^^'^°'-' ^^''^h hero' JowH thrS, gh
Jer7,i e r V ' ^^ .fmhorcd, " arul twooihor go,.l sized Htreams flowing through
n?.? l^^ .";..'■''■'',. ''"''^''■^' ""■'■" tt'"''""Hidoiahlc patchos ,d ...Tod land."
n leferenco to he .SarUa li.vor, failing into Barciav Sound, it is sai.l that on a lako at
ts source- a delta of l.OOi, acre is fo, ,„cd ; it could ho ver^• ..asiiy .doarcd an. made
jv<nlal.lo for agriculture, uk would also tho valley thn-ugh" which iho Sarita Svor
six n^r.s w„''Vi'' ''""^ ''" "'"""' " '", ^"^*'^'* '■ " '■''"' fi"-^' P^'-ti'^" "^' «"'• '-"ute for
Ln/in '•' L T'.l " ^•'"•y"'l.'^-"..^hi"l>- woo.lod fern country, well ad rp ted for
gt.'/ing. IJeycmd this, no mention is ma.lo of any agricultural lands on tho route
St -Jr;.; r'" '^"" ^'"'"■"' ''""" "•"' ^''^ '"«^th^t' the QuaUeum IW on tS
Mr Lcccli passed accross the Islan.l from tho head Muchalat Arm, on tho west
coast to tho mouth of Salmon Rivor, „n .lohnson Strait. 65 miles, and, wi h ho oxTS
In",;; I'cZtr/ ''^ '°r'"^' timhere,l, tirst-rato soil," on CWron'CrooVnoarZ
M ' ^^'Y ^ existence of no agricultural land in the interior
n •.•,'';-,,.".'"." «"«'"oer a.^ting under tho instructions oi tho Go^rornment of
li' dio MoI'S^m' ''''' '':.'''''"'" l*^"' ^'''' "^■^'^'^ '-^"^"d ^-« ^^"'^ Hupo'^'outh.
ims ,;. m n. ,T' "•'?■ '•"^'"'";',' ■^'"■™'^''' " ^'''^^"'=« ''*" 125 miles, ,,onctratcd at
.Mho^imkish Uivor, which " untlirtunately is cut up into detached blocks by tho
mountain spurs and gravel ridges which run down to the extreme " ^
will Z 'u 'ZT^^^^^ «"'"^"° Ki^'^"-. which
interir ^ r ' '''"V^^ ''' ^''" *^'^"^"* of agricultural lan.i in the
ixpld?ntion| '"™" "" ''■ ' «b-^e.-vation of Mr. Mohun during a flea«on>8
-nnn^''"/^'"';'''*^"^"^'°'".""'^^"''"^ ropoatedly crossed tho IMand, and who has
eon "almost every portion of the lan.l and all the rivers and streams south of a lin^
. .awn from Cowichan River to the mouth of Alberni Canal," writes :-" Beyond be
SthtM-iv'eii'-"''"'" '' "" '''"'' ^* ^"''' '^^"'°'"°"^ «^"«Pt '^t the mouths of some
All Iho inf..rmalion procurable at the outset of my exploration, rorarding the
agricultural land, referred to that portion of the Island 8outh^ of F^rt Rupert which
have descrihcl as principally occupied by tho interior mountain .angls. Bojond
the northern limit of thoo mountains, as may bo noticed from fl>.^ .\o..i- ..f ^J.ir,„
«u«r,iers, tbo country to tho northern extremity of Vancouver Island is compara.
134
\i
not rciilizcil. "oMLiimu.ii i.iiul. Ihcso oxpoctutions were
west arm, tni erscd thoWtroo^ t sl!n t^^^ Quat...u) Sonn, , and thenco by tl,«
end, whil^oxplomtionsrerc also Xoi
thus exa,ni„e'l contains Zy Uiilo ." ■ cu u al lan,f /'''"h ^'^""'^^'^'■''- '^^''^ '^''e*
good land ai'o met with but thov a n so?. . ■^''", ^'"■' ''''"^ '"'•'"^ l"itchosof
generallj; tlnckly wooded ai ^ nteiN^^^^^^^ ''"^' «'"''^^^'"y '^i"^.
.ummitHofsomeVfthehilli P'"'^"''"' '"'" visible, on the sides and
othoH:z;;:;!;S;.;:;i:iS'Jet^^s™i:i^^
localities ••ofeno.l to is that the into.W P"'^""^"> •icqna.ntcd with some of the
inducement to .,n.ie.,tu.allleme'rb,wl,T'''rr'"'" ^'^V'l^ .'' ^"^^''"'° "^ ''^y
it would bo unn-^e to annm nee uT- 1 1 , nT M '^■'''n ^''^''' '''''' oxplorationB
farther ren,;ul.od that, in coTnec ion wU t^he vV?', 7 "'°- T''-''''\'' "^'^^ ''^
which are sure of develonme.Uarr.lUf,f?,fi ''"'^ '''!:'^'* "''"<'''^' ''o^ources,
intenor, s.nail thought 'bS;i"Vf\": ul^l::: ;;:^.i!;:j^' "^^ ^^'"^'^^'^ '-'^ - ^l^^
last i::!!,:^:;';rs^^,K^l;- ::;j,i;;«j-^
which it will be convenfent to ^Til:}£^X^^^Z:^' '^'""' '" '^'"«
a Hn -linJSf ^r =-tS^ O" -0 north .
Alberni cluKd" ' '""""' ''''^"^'"^' "^'^^^^^''^ ^« ^he Qualicum River and
^ J-5. The Southern division, embracing the remainder of the Island to the south-
whicIV^ri^riS^X^o^tfuv^iir""''^^^^^"" "^ ''''''''' --' 0'
"""le ^r c^or:*' ^-^^-^'^^ ^-^ ^'^ ^^« '"'--^•. -a on '"^'-
On the Nimkish River 15,000
On the Cokish River and t."ibutaV-i;;r;;;.;; J2
On the Adams River ■^""'^
On the Salmon Rivor *'^00
• 25,000
"^'^QuaSo'" '^" '"*'"'"' ""'^ ^° *^« ^««^ ««««t south of '''"''
'■ 25,000
Total cultivable land in the Northern division i^
30.00*2'a;'::;'''5wel'i^3;rirSvv:r;^ ^-« -^' --^^
•probably too hi-.h forsuJcessful StifaZJ „ ? "'^?* '*?'^^'' ^^"^ *^« seaboard, and
the Island, whe^ the terne.iur« o hi « "'i^ '^ ^^'^^ ''^'^'^^ «» the north end of
which sw.;p acrLs ft frrtYTi^rlh^pl mc o'et ^^f^ ^f.-t^" -'^^^-'-^hwest blasts
vation ha, been done at Fort Runert and nn thl rK- i ^'^ division, a little culti-
the southward. ^ ' *"'* "" ^'^^ Chickseeway River a few miles to
emb:^l;:'r,::^.;:;:r^^iS^Snto??^ betaken at2,190,000 acre. It
tain, of cultivable land _'''"'*"' settlement ol Comox, and I estimate that it con-
135
: would roHult in the
expectations weiv
ipo Scott, I crossed
, and ti)oiico by tfie
stance of its nortliern
iithward. Tho area
yMt coast, patches of
lom practically wo-
and ,i,'ravelly hills,
i and lakes. Open
..on tho sides and
ovidenco, and from
with some of the
is dostitiito 01 any
orioiis explorations
so, and it may he
mineral resources,
Itivable land in the
tho examinations of
lir Island; in doing
uott on tho north to
ilicum River and
iland to tho south-
1,100,000 acres, of
Acres.
id on
15,000
6,500
2,000
4,000
25,000
52,000
;h of
25,000
77,000
does not exceed
1 tho seaboard, and
the north end of
d^northwost blasts
ion, a little culti-
er a few milos to
190,000 acres. It
mate that it con-
Bordering on Monziea Bay ■^''"^'
Bet^veen Menzies Bay and Comox 'seVu;:;nen^ '[ncludi^;/ land ^''"^"
or Duncan and (Jampbell liivers ' » una
'"uit;;:;;on':i!:rr..""'""^"^' i"oiudin;,-h;;Ki"un;w ''■'"'
From Oomox to Quaiicum "iiiver ' •'''^"^
7,u00
Add fov land in the interior and on tho west coast SJJJ
Total amount of cultivable land in the second division JTooO
.tretches^ovorod whh li^J.t ma^lot^ily cEo d" In'n'' considerable i.Uorvening
oftheopen land is occupied, but ntl^^ovidnitv'l, V"'""^ ^otllement most
bered, which nuVIU, at i com, mkSvIm.ro\.tv'^ "/' '"'i^." "'?" "-''^'^ ^'™-
cultivable land maj^Ttaken asIlWs!^''* '^ ""*' "'"«l>'^«"''tood. Tl>o extent of
^''''""fS'I'""' .^'p'' *^ I^^P^'-t"™ Bay, including land on '''"''
EnghHhman's Bivor and Nanoose Bay ^ .^nnn
Departiire Bay to Oyster Harbor, including land und;r cuVti: '^^
vation m Nanaimo settlement ! ^ u unaoi cuiti-
"^ o^f'Schai' '"' "' '^^"'^'^ ^^■"' -^'"^Vng-;;uiem-eni '''°''
Add for land in tho interior ... . ^fA'l^
15,000
Total amount of cultivable land in Southern division. . i;^o"o"o
ABSTEACT.
Extent ofcultivabb land in 1st, or Northern division 77 OOO
„ 2nd, or Central division f,7;,,oo
ard, or bouthorn division 255,000
Total extent of cultivable land in Vancouver Island .... 389^0~o"o
136
C-.
co
K
•<
00
1-
00
•anijtty JO jaqiuiii,;
^ N ■*
<0 tK .^
CO t-t T|<
•(iaaqg jo joqtnn^i
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3
to
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•Btnji;jnopa3B3aa
eaoBjaj jo .laqoinij
•aonpnjd £i]VQ
JO 9ii[BA iBnuay
CX)
•fliqUAl'}
-ino ;na)xa \v\oj^
o
■noijBAiiina
jspnn juajxa' imjox
■4J O '^
= rf o
(U i' u
o
El
S
2 £.«
o 3
O C; O
o
00
4) OB
13 ,J
O cf) o
3 C-3
o o 2
(UN
■♦-• CL-
a
E-
^^ -H ^H
::i 1
BUOjl
-wado SuitojBj
(wiuaH joj paidiiD
-oo puw] jii jiiaixg
Ol
o
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<u
w
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137
nlovfdTt ?■'" '^^'"'.^cfP'^""'"'^'''*'' ^'2*^^ P*^™^"-^ ••"•0 supported l.y and om-
tlf. 7'ltivat,on of 8,751 acres, but I am „f opinio,, that I c n.csent farmil
ro ula Km couM, ,f the CHCun.tan.oH ot the co.u.t.y either de.na,.ded or jus i^d if
iva ic .^ ^'1 /'^f " "" r?'^^'"^ '"•. l':"d oO per ce,.l in exceHH of that uir^ady under
ll, n V,. '".'"; ^''? 'n\ '' '' '^"^y '^' •^'^° ^h«t with 300,000 acres ut cultiv-
Si'oOO ^""'"'''"'' '"'""'^ ^■""''^ ^"PP"'-^ «» agricultural population of 25,000 Ta
In .•cfercnco to the soil of Vancouver Island, it may bo said that it is uncom-
Zt c^on 'ri"^' '?''"'''"^'^' "^"'^^^'^ ^" ^''*^ proliuction ^of the varioun cU iraTd
on i u si l!";-'"'"' ''''' '!"r' 'T-'"''*"= "•''^•■'^ ^'^'^ '""'^' ^^^«'- h'^vinK heen cropped
con nuousiy for lo yeans, with little, if any manure, in still yiel.Jin.Mair cions
and othe. pi ccs, where the oxi.osure is favourable, and the hop vine has of late voare
l)eon succoH.ftilly cultivated in several localities. ^ ^
Iho following may be taken as the average yield per acre cf land in good order:
i^.^f*** 30 to 40 bushels.
n r'y ;^") to 45 "
D \ : 50 to 60 «
,7'"'"«« 150 to 200 "
qv"^'v IJto 2i^tons.
^"'"M« 20 to 25" "
ducei rirh'^s^OO^hu f !f' ''"^•■»" f "-"""fe' i" ^'"^toria district, that his land has pro-
uutea as high as JO bushels of oats per acre ; and in the Cowichan settlement F
I belie e Slc^ 1^ ^^ who e Island, excepting, of course, the mountainous portions,
nasiiroof .^f t'l'T'^^'''''"^"''*'' "^ ""''^'" seasons on the undergrowth and
li k tl ( . T' '"' f' '''"■^'"' ■^tall.foeding is necessary during wi.tcr, I do not
Sen ; e ue'oTnmlh" ''"'^^^^^^ ^'■"'" ^'''^'"^ ^^'"^ ^''''"'^^'" auxiliaries to
agiitiuTuic, aie ot much importance.
muniU-'SfloTf iL^^.k''^'""'-'^" ^ '''Y" ^''° ""'"'^^ testimony of the farming com-
munit^,afte a engihy experience, that with due diligence and care on their part
such as the loss of crops from the waywardness of the climate is a Ihin.^ unknown
SchlSl^Smillltr"^"^^ ""' ^"^"^^""^ '^ '^'^''^ ^'- -'i-^'enerof
intl,l*'d?sflI'."n?"^T-'' -^-V^'^ tabulated exhibit of actual agricultural operations
"l ?,«„.? r \ IV''"'">' !«'"'^'''"^l^'o for the smallness of" results ; and considoi^
w!l T ?"'''°^'?'''*'''''*'<^'"^^"t^""eis indeed forced to adn it what the
fanosthemseIvesadmit,that it is still the day of small things in so Sr a!
^n^ZZJ^T'^'-^t^'^^r''''''''''^- ^«'^^'"' ^^« --'. only about per
33 57 .OS 'y'J'U -n-al land on the Island has been taken up, while of the
seen hu W. It^^ '*'"*• '^''^ ^^°" »''•«"-'''* ""der cultivation. It
Z C.I ,t ^Ti o! n. n'?'T/'\''^^ contributing to this state of things should bo
no aie they traceable to the climate, for that has been assured from lon.>- experience
fotlts :- ''"■'"°'" ''' '^''*^-^' '''"'^''''' ^"'l industrious. They ai^ cEfly ,S
dithi!.'''^''''"''"""?-'^'";'"^'*''''"''- The distance, and in some instances, the in-
UcZS ;:'?:"• 'f/'T ^"'^•^*^" ^'J'^^''^ '"••^'•'^^^ ""^ consequent margin necessary
'^K • "■ .. "'^'^ u ^'ha'-ae*^. whaifugo and middle men's protits. ^
nrod, r«„L''f ■ f I ^^"^ "'tt''*'*^ '" leached, it is often found to be glutted by surplus
pioduco sent ,n from adjacent United States territory, at less expense thai mS
forfh''''''*^'"'"''''"'''^^,*^^*''^^®'"®*"''^'"-^*''^'"'*'^^ Columbia, h.ivin.r como to mine-
Ire tl.,T'"r """'"u'- '•«'"P'"'''^t''^-«ly f«w have been found ;illing to betake th^.m-
flelves to the less exciting occupation of agriculture. i, uc e mem
I
133
-, in H I ,'"7«"«e of population, and the coriHequent competition in labour a^ wdl
fident ; .irv' '""'*^''f "f''''^^^°''''*''^^'''^"^"g^«^^^ disappear, and 1 am Jo.-
fident il.a Vaneouvor Island ,,os.sesso.s suffident latent agricultural resources J)
S' Ji;S;;^!Sh.;n(!^'' ' ^"'^^'"'^'^^^ ^'^'^'^^^ '" contributing j^ U.o future p.i.^,^
end to,Ml!/''°n'ri'''^''?" i^^fr °l^"".'»g«' Vancouver Island is densely wooded from
?b o r f n • V''"'''''" ^•f^^tio'^ of timber, in a commercial 4\v, stated i^
the sIhucc fi!'" ""i'*^'-'""'=^' ■■'"' '^' ■^'^"nl^« «'•. ^1>« ''ed cedar, the white' pine and
The fir. : named, sometimes growing to an enormous size, is found throu.di<MH
the Island, but n.o.e plentifully in the southern and middle d suiT I 3 N
4 .appears up to laUtude 52° N., beyond which it is seldom seen Tie 7idc"hJ.
and spruce hr arc widely distributed, but are most abundant near the sea coas? The
Alho^'! ^.''"''V' ''7';y '"'^* "" t'l^ ^cst coast, valuable limber tracts have been found
l'^'t''"n ""'r^ ""' ^'^"f ^'"« Sound seem to be especially distinguished for the excj
la ot "^""^"- ^^ ^"^^ 'I^''"^^' with which their shores'are lined The same
Tai e ,es are f^^jund in abundance on the east coast, from Menzies Bay to Comox and
ou the r,vors that fall into the Strait of Georgia, between these points. '
ir, .,.1 V Z"^'' f" ''"''^'°"' ''^ '^^^ ^""^^^ of Campbell Eiverand on the Comox River
ir addition to extensive tracts of fir and spruce, there are considerable qmmtities of
b^ wc. n P- ^'™^«';i"fe' operations are being carried on to a consider b"o extent
between Comox and Nanaimo, mostly in the vicinity of the coast.
^; ,nf h' -^'^"'"'"o «'vo'-. I am informed by a practical lumberman, there are suffi
Ciont hi- spruce and pine to afford ten years' employment to a largo lumbednicamn
ooveS^whrZ'S;:'; f f' "^^rrr ^r^ ^'^"^>'' ■" t^'e cf wlchan dis'^ct t
E fn. ,. l"i^ !\'!.'"'^'^'' ""^ ^ I'ave been inn med by the Hon. Mr. Smithe
that, for thirty miles or
inoi'e upward, this valley
by the Hon. Mr. Smithe
^ntains largo quantities of
lo country, iu the vicinity
exceliciit fir and spruce, while on the higher portions t
Of the river, are considerable areas of white pine
iDrodm!o nrn^^r'''''''",^'^?-" ""."^ H^° '* ^' ostimated that there is timber enough to
p.oduce two thousand mil ion feet board measure of marketable lumber. ^
timb^!'s:^nLr :ss;:^t =;:rs^r^??it:^^:i^i^ir^ '-
I am, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
JOSEPH HUNTER.
Sandfobd Fleming, Esq., C.M.G.,
Ottawa.
i;j9
APPENDIX No. 9.
H HUNTER.
WMOBA.VDUM ON THE yuEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS BIUTISII COI tnnuA „v ,.
^^X^B.S„A.H.S.M.,.a,., ASS.TA.T i^H^^So". X^^^^ll^^ ^
and if^'iS^t iErE;t:;do^[S-;:ir'5!^ «T"i^ ^^''=":i!f ',r ">« "^^^'-'-^
from the Houthern oxtroni^tv of Al i 1^, .^ /, T ? ^'"^ ""'""' ^>' ''*'^"" « I'^ntrance
formiijfr the axis of these si inds li. « n m '^'^'' 5^''' •'"''"i- ^1'° mountain range
and i.ul,e northerly co,u?ni'S^^^^^^^^
tainsof Washington SrorvnM?!iv ^;""^"",^'^';'r'-»'' '^"^^ ''^-^ Olympian Mounl
to No-'th Island i^ineSjed and fffvl"" '°"^'''' "^"° ','''^"'^'* ^'•"'" ^"l'« «t. James
angles to the bearinrabo o ^fv.n , ^ ''''^ goograph.cal miles, the width, at right-
to the uncertah'ty fn lor .Mt^ude of . place about fifty miles. The area, owing
eastern coast, cunLrbJgh^ii'tiafiir.l^uLV'^ ""'"""' " '""'''''' ''''^^ '''
Morel'; SCram^'sZdT'bu't'ir-"', '^f ^^''^^ '"'^'^ '«'^"^^' ^-''^ ■?--*.
rocks. ThosepaJSoftheLTl iL'^ "''°\'"^"^.''"''^'" '^''^"J^' '^'^^^ ^nd
not depend on EL Zaret^^^^^^^^^^ ^X'""^ '^,^.*^ accidental, as it does
fiords, which chaSrizG both hi; . ' ^"^ ""^ *'''' '"' ii.osculation of inlets or
the mountainouaxroV the islands k in".! Vf kT'^'" .'^"''^- '^'^" '^'■«'^'^'- P^''^^ of
extending from Juai pLez wlt- "?w •'°^^e«n '^titudes 52° 30' and 5;{° 20',
tains estimate? iToOoS^n height ^A'^''*''"'" °'''^^ of Skidegate Inlet. Monnl
sides pretty exten^ve patches of «no-^t "unierous, and carry on their northern
bably reach 5,000 feet hf elevation ^^ .throughout the summer. A fo^y peaks pro-
nami Sierra do San Cristova Iw^^ ,J, ,7.'';'»btloss to this part of the range that the
islands. Tothosoutl?thomoun.Z, 'v''h^^*^°''"^ the discoverer of theso
2,000 feet being qui e exreXnol ?h "•y^J'^^'-fi«e« •" elevation, su.nmits exceeding
ward the rang" To c3ies w . L fT .Sfowart Chann,.]. To the north-
head of Massct IiXt fbw , f h™ * 'J^^'""^'''^ ''«'«'•<. ""d become- .liih.se. At the
are rounded near Noirsltdtlfh'iir "l"'"':' '" '""''"^ .^"'^"^ ''''' ''^'"^ ^'"°''- ^'-""^
Pmm <iL I^ *u ^«''"iu, the hills do not sui'pass a low hundred feet
F.om the -uthern extremity of the islands Jo Cun.shewa'lnletM- the east
character would se^m n ost u faZ nhl ' . . ' •"""■>^- ""*'" "^^^'^ ^'' '-^'^Y
ferouH trees, which hi shel Zh I M ' ^'e^'o ^tion, is .ion.oly covered with corf-
attain a largrsizo The lis 1. T~"?'''"">' «"*''<> eastern coast-tVoquent;-.
Bected by infots fia m mr,™ • Th "/ t'"V«i'<"nt« l«'"gth, was found lo bo dis-
on the cL ." Tl^^ese me o Z '"^"f '"'' ? ,^''" "^^^^^^^^ which has formerly appeared
by high mountains Th„w„< °io«t Pf t cleep and liord-like, and often walled in
^i-w:K;;rs:es^s^^^^^
1878^^7eSoVo^i!l'a aJwynT^^^ "«'«';«'! '^I'«t on tl,e explorations of
aeiwyn, *.k,8., F.G.S., Dir-.-clor, Geological Survey of Oanad*.
140
l!i
«horo foi'ij.s two or thrt'o sliallow bays. It is low and fUvvn with !■ ;'iM(i-i, and
iflatHaro bared at low tide a loiii,' way ott'. .Sicide^ato (^iianin-l, tc'iKii-iUinf,' Jrvesbv
and (ii'ahiim Islands, is very narrow for some miles, wiih nKiny rocks, imd i** in fiict,
nearly dry at low watei f )r a eonsiderablo distance, and Cserutoco nuito unsii.'ed a,, a
passage tor anyiliini; lar-er than a canoe or boa^. From :|.o low hmd i,nind u-.ur the
soutliorn eiilrance to SUi iv-gate Inlet, the moimuutis gruutv.illy incroaso in ( l/'-ution
to the centni of the islands; beyond wbkdi, lou-ard the v'-jst coa,t, though rM'-'.'ed
*i'd with scarcely a vesti.-.-e of soil, tboy Kcklom exi oed 2,0(i0 feet in heighir "^
Graham Island may be .lividod inio Uro dilferoiitly characterized' regions by ii
lino drawn from Image Poin , SIddegaio Ldet, to the moutli of the Jal-uii I?iver .)m
the noi'th coast. To the .u)ulh-westward uf this line, is a '^uunti'v hs!) and even
mountainous, but so far as observed aim, -it a!'. :)ys d^msely forest-^'lad \vith trms
■which attain a large size wherM -ot too muc'a c.v posed. ^Jorlh-cuslM'ard lies a low,
flat or gently umlulating country which probably seldom exceeds H.'(» feet in eleva-
tion, and is based ou wide-spread drilt deposits ar.d roi'ics ofTc; liary ago. This coun-
try is ;ils.'> densely wooded, the trees often attaining inagnifAoiit dimensions. The
coast l.oni Skiilegato to 'R)<o Point orNai-koon and thence to the entrance toAIassot,
is genoally \o'.>.\ to the rasrward often marked by clilfs of clay and sand, but fringed
always by a sand,,- oigravciiy beach, on which the Indians frequently walk from the
Masset viil.i- ■) to thai of Skidegate. I3ctwcen the h! -^ro and the edge of the forest,
is generally :'. A-mv, of ,.jrass-covercd sand-hills, prodiu-J by the action of the wind in
heapi'ig iogjther the sand from the shoi'e. These would form good grazing lands,
butare unsal;ed to agidcultnre. With thisoxccption, ai: i that of Hwamp8,there appoarrl
to be no pait of tho countiy free from forest. The ^'oast between Skidegate and
JIasKct being exposed, without harbors, and shoal, is dangerous of approach by
vessels, but the wooded country is rendered accossiblo hy Massot and Virago Sounds
luid their connected waters.
Tho well-known Douglas fir does not occur on the Queon Ch;irlotte Islands, find-
ing its northern limit on the outer coast at the north end of Vancouver Island. The
forest is chiefly ct)mposed of Menzios spruce (Abies Menziesii), the western' cedar
(Thuja <jig,iHfe(t) and the western hemlock (Abies Mertcnsi.nia). The yellow cypress
(Cupressus Natkatensis) also occurs, though seldom in largo groves, and generallj' scat-
tered over the more Itarren and rocky portions of the hill slopes. Of the trees above
mentioned, Menzies spruce, the cedar and the cypress aro the most valuable for lum-
ber, and though tho first named is not considered equal to tho Douglas tir for most
purposes, it must ere long become valuable, and can be obtained of o.xcollent quality,
and in almost inexhausiible quantity in these islands. Skidegate Inlet would be
convenient in many I'ospects as a site for saw-mills, but Naden Harbor, or Masset,
aro better situated for this purpose, affording easy access to a largo area of wooded
countiy.
The great growth of tho trees and the comparative immunity of tho woodland
from forest fires depend, in great measure, on tho damp character of tho climate of
tho islands, which is also evinced in many other ways. Tho heaviest rain-fall is
however, loc:d, taking j)lace on the western mountainous axis; and it may often be
noted that while heavy rain is there falling, the sky is comparatively cleai- over the
strait to tho eastward. From this circumstance tho triangular area of low land
forming the northeastern part of Uraham Island is not subject to an oxtremelv
heavy rain-fall, and would appear to bo well suited to ari-ultiire, but for tho dense
forest covering, which at tho present time it will not , ' *o remove. The Hudson
Bay Company have a post at Masset, whore for some t ■ ittlo have boon kept, or
rather have kept *bemselvcs, grazing on tho san''-hill8' ho vicinity of tho coastand
requiring no att ■; i.rm summer or winter. Botv. t . ;. iet and Skidegate a consider-
able numboi of ..,'. alb might live in this way, -nA it ;.;is boon proposed to winter
mules and horses uom Oassiar in this country, .d %'inter the rain-fall in tho islands
is generally very heavy, with persistently overcaut i.y and gales more frequent and
violent than those exporienced on the coast furthi- .•c.jthward. Snow occasionally
falls to a considerable depth, but does not lie long, exc> ;;-. \n the raountaias. lu the
ui
iHtv,-unl iit;« a low,
winterof 1877-78 no snow fell on the low laiiclH In tlin.t .iP 1^^?^ -i , i .1
™inn mf ""'^'" ". •* '"'"p ^"'n "f money hu.s heon .spent in en.leuvourin- to onen a coal
isratnei uiin and iiic<,n lur. Hud more attention been devoted to traein-r flin Hoam
rinTVH"'"V''*^''^''f'"=«'^« *'•'•« ^"^'''^ would now S bette Lm^w TlS
homon wh.ch the coal oecn,,ioH is a clearly deHned one, and the .anKM- .'■ -hat it
XiJthe nth rl th . 1^ or qu.e vertical in the vicinity of the mountainous axis,
»f <5i,^n r. • 1 -leitiary date have been found in the upper part of Masset Inlet
a Skon-unPointon the north coast, and near the entrance G sSde ^tf In let
unr^ It";;?:""' " ^ '"""^''^^^ '^'""^^"^'>^ «"i^p'-^ -''i^ wood .re i;;ith-dy
^mmZZf^ZZ'Jn'JlTt",^^^^^^^ been found in
Skinm.ltll' h?W ''^s™^-'*'^""' ^f.P'''"; f magnetic iron ore occurs at Harriet Harbour
bro..!fll'Ml!'f A"'*''''' f.";"^ ',""'■'' r''tic»'aHy the trade in the skins of the sea-otter first
tuTytesol^sfc^^^^^^ into notice, and towa.d the end of the last c^n-
undP,. fhl i^ r K A *^'^' '^'^J'^co^t coasts wore frequently visited by vessels .ailiru'
of ?he soaottf '"«A ^'"^'•r"r'^ «^'^«^- ^«««- The^,ativ4, stimulated i n t h parlfe
lall .T; ' '''''" ;-en<ierod it oxtromoiy scarce, since which time few vessels bt
8 now ..''■' 'r'^T'^ '" ^"^•''^'^ *™*^« '^^^'° '■«««''t«J to the island The fi trade
Cw?r/r'"''''V''^"?'™P"';*""*- Sea-otter skins are still obtained in .mall num-
1r
142
!:■•■
Tho natives of the Qnocn Charlotfo Islaixls, known an Ilaiclas, livo almost
entirely on h.I, ospocally halibul. To tho north of a lino .irawn from tho ontraru.,
of SlviiKMi Inlet noith-oastward across Ilocato Strait, tho depth of the water never
exceeds 00 fathoms and is generally very mach loss. A similar shallow area with
a prohahlo width of ten or twelve miles, borders Graham Island to tho north and it i«
also i.robahly comparatively shoal for some distance off the west coast of the northern
part o the same is and. These banks, su opt by strong tidal currents, with the
shore lines ot the inlets and hords, constitute tho feoding-grounds of tho halibut and
other hshes, and by their exceptional extension account for tho great abundance of
hsh to he found m the vicinity ol the islands.
The halibut is the most important, and though it has not yet been found mar-
ketablo either salted or canned, if means were adopted by which it might be carried
in afresh state to the southern markets, an oxtonsivo fishery might be maintained
I he dog-hsh, found in great ahundanco, is taken for tho maimfacturo of oil ami
a small establishment is already at work in this business at Skidogato. besides' loss
aystematic operations by tho Indians. ° ""siuos ions
Salmonof two or more species run up many of the streams in largo numbers
especially in the autumn. They are taken by tho natives in weirs and bv speaS
but as none oi (ho rivers are largo tho opportunities for establishing canneries are
not HO good as in other parts of tho Province. Herrings are very abundant in some
places, especially in the vicinity of Skidegate at certain soasonsf A species of S
lock or coal-hsh is caught in largo numbers in deep water in some parts of tho west
and north coasts of tho islands. It is prized by tho Haidas as a source of edible o
which somo tribes use instei.d of that of the oolacben. The latter fish does not occur
in the vicinity of the islands. Flouniers and plaice abound in some localities A
17X.,\ r™'^"'^'^ t'!'' same species as that for which vessels sail from San Francisco
to the Okhotsk boa, is found, but is not sought after by the natives, though it may
occur abundantly on some banks at certain seasons. The name remark applies tJ
the mackerel, of which a species is found. Smaller fish, such as tho various species
of rock-cod and tho shell-fish, which form at times, an important item in ?he JS iv
diotaiy. It IS unnecessary to mention particularly.
There are many good harbours in the islands. Of those Rose Harbour on Houston
btewart Channel is the most southern, and is easily entered either from the south or
west coasts. Harriet Harbour, on Skincuttlo Inlet, is a r.o'^ anchora-e within
average depth of eight fathoms. Echo Harbour, on Darwin Sound, is" small bit
remarkably well sheltered, tho depth being from ten to (ifteen fathoms. Rock-M
Harbor on Selwyn Inlot, is easily entered and well land-locked; depth from thirteen
to twenty fathoms, with an anchorage for small craft iu less water. Tho entrance
toCuinshewa nletisover a bar on the north side, which, according to the sketch
pubhshed by tho Admiralty, has a depth of seven fathoms. Skidogate Inlet has be n
22 r^, 8i"-voyed and a map is published by tho Admiralty. The entrance J.
IHOtectod by a bar through which two channels pass with least depths of eleven aiul
three and a-half fathoms respectively. Masset Sound must be approached with cau-
tion, till a complete survey shall have been made of it. Virago Sound appears to be
an excellent harbour, and within the bai-on which thiSe to three and adiaf
fathoms IS fonnd-it opens to Naden Harbor, a fine sheet of water, with an average
depth of about ten fathoms, and completely land-locked. On tho west coast Port
Aaper has been surveyed, and a sketch of it published by the Admiralty. Tasoo
Harbour, further south, is reputed to be extensive, and there are probably other
anchorages yet undiscovered. ' •'
.nn '■'^f''.S''?'T '??*'''*'', ''^i^''® ^"^*^" Charlotte Islands, probably now number
scarcely 2 000, including all who call the islands their home, oven thou-h sildom
mrf of^n i'T- 7 w V^" *t'? 'T® ??, '^'^^ ^^^ '^^'-'^"' I"'^''*"« o^" the southern
umbeVinn Th" "* Wales Islands of Alaska, who, according to a recent estimate,
iiumbei dOO. Though unfortunately much demoralized, owing to the habit of (vl
SnffKl'nlr''''''"?^^''^' towns the people are naturally more intelligent than
most of the natives of the coa.st. Thoy appear to be pccuiiariy apt in the simpiui-
143
Ilaidas, live almost
II from tho entratic&
1 of tho water never
V shallow area, with
r> tho north, and it is
3oast of tho northern
ciirrcTits, with the
Is of tho halibut and
great ubundanco of
yot been found mar-
it might be carried
ht bo maintained,
ufacturo of oil, and
dogato, bosido.i Ic^^h
i in largo numbers,
rs and by spearing,
shing cannorioH are
y abundant in Home
. A .specios of pol-
e parts of tho west
source of edible oil
fish does not occur
tome localities. A
from San Francisco
ves, though it may
> remark applies to
the various spccieB
item in the native
[arbour on Houston
from the south or
mchorage, with an
und, is small but
homs. Rock-fish
opth from thirteen
tor. Tho entrance
•ding to the sketch
jate Inlet has been
. The entrance is
)ths of eleven and
irouchod with caii-
iind appeal's to be
• throe and a-half
r, with an average
ho west coast Port
Admiralty. Tasoo
I'e probably other
lably now number
'en though seldom
18 of tho southern
recent estimate,
the habit of fre-
•e intelligent than
apt in the 8im|jioi'
mechamcal arts, and are expert and bold canoemen. They are frequently employed
"ITI'!? T'k''- r'^.'^""!^ beof essential service as assistants in milK,?SS
tT«ite l?nH« o^'r'^n N««i«P« have yet been taken to do away with the IndTan
^letothe lands of the Queen Charlotte fslands. Small tracts of land have been
wottred by special purchase in several instances, but owing to the strict ido^rof
TS^F^Z^^on!"" ^"'"' *'' "'^""'^ °'''^ "^^'"°° ^' fhe IndiL tiSe mly ^'
Victoria, B. C.
30th May, 1879
GEOEGE M. DAWSON.
I).S., A.E.S.M., F.G.S,
'.i
''n
123-10
m ■
144
APPENDIX No. 10.
4'
NOTESON lllEKOUTKOPTnECA.SADIA.V PACIFIC RAILWAY TliaoUOII BRITISH COLUMBIA
BY MAJOK-OENEKAL MOODY, R.E., FORMEllLY COMMANDINO ROYAL ENOINEEllS IV
BRITISU COLUMItlA.
Theso notes Imvo roforence to the following considomtionn, viz. :—
1. Ovbriiind tiunait of commorco, and passen/joiH to and from Asiatic and other
countnoH,
2. Dominion loquiiomonts aa to extended occunatiou of Dominion, and develoD-
mont of Its poniianont interests. "^
3. Cowtof construction with oust of maintenance.
_ 4. Roveruie towards meeting cost of maintenance and interest on borrowed
capital, uicliiding as part of capital the accumulation of annual cost of maintoiianee
that snail not havo been covered b^ revenue.
5. Pacific terminus.
6 Imperi.il and especially Dominion interests under a possible temporary condi-
tion of war. I J
The.- notes are confined to the part of the Dominion extending from the Rockv
Mountain.-, to the Pacific. ■'
Attentively considering Mr. Sandford Fleming's two reports, 1877 and 1878 and
also his admirable paper read before the Eoyal Colonial Institute; and haviiiL' gone
Ihiough the otber valuable reports and communications accompani.imr his reports
recalling also my own local mpressions as to some of llio most inaterial points I
"'''■'Yf "J,£ie sami. main c .oclu.-on as Mr. Sandford Fleming in his report of the 2b'tli
April, 18 JO.
«. P" t^*"? |"'^*tei-H I lia^o been lo ., by local knowledge, to be more optimist thiin
JU.r. baridiord t 'i!ng, ^
Three route:- are considered.
I. Terminatimg in Port Simpson.
V }^'- 'f ?'■'"' "^ti"'^ '^^ head of Bute.Inlet, or with continuation down Bute Inlet u>
i recferick s Arm . .o.uo by water r'"i ry) to Van, -uver P-land, and down east coast
ol Vancouver Island 'o Esquiraault.
III. Teiminating in Burrard Inlet, or wiih addition oi crossing by water rferrv)
to Jianaimo, and from thence down e" oast of Vancouver I,.laud to Esc.aimault
It shortness of distance to ar d froui Asiatic countries is to out weigh all else the
northern Itoute I, terminating' Port Jimpson, would, no doubt, be^found the best
loi quickest transit of commer^' id sengers.
™. n""" .?® ^^^'<^'°P'^«'?t f Pt anent interests of the Dominion, and for
IVX lu'' ^''^ scarcely be .. .oubt this Boute I would be found inferior to either
oi ine other two.
mnf J*"" '"''''[''■ ^H'"* ^o»t« I.^as not been estimated, but its long'h has been approxi-
mately ascertained. Its Pacific terminus may be considered suthciently satisfactory.
f...... „fV . I 'u^-^^^ '^ '^^^''^ °"'y <^"® *^'^' "^""y ^^ considei-ed secure from desul-
toiy attacks, but being so far north, it would be of comparatively small avail in de-
lence of the Province. It 18 to be noted also-under this consideratiou-that the
pot adjoins Alaska, United States Territory; with the corresponding disadvantai:.
and advantasres in war. ' ^ o"«v«uui,_
-1 f«
» !;;
145
down Bute Inlet to
ind down oast coast
ig by water (ferry)
i to Esquimault.
iiwoigh all else, the
t, be found the best
Domii.ii.ii, and foi'
>d interior to either
has been approxi-
;iently aatisfactory.
secure from desul-
Y small avail in de-
deration— that the
ling disadvantairt
JiouteIL(M. Q of Reports.)
Ill DBITI8H COLUMBIA.
EOYAL, ENQINEEKS IN
V17-. : —
>m Asiatic and otiier
minion, and develop-
itoro.st on borrowed
cost of maintenance
>le temporary condi-
ling from the Eocky
1877 and 1878, and
;e; and having gone
(anting his reports;
st material points, I
is report of the 26th
more optimist than
t.kon us uSnSthlg aul';";:;,^^ comparison with the other two routes, must be
of main cnan,.o of the J{outo If, term na in^t, v •^'''" ^"'"Pa'-i^O", the annual cost
(aboat 145,000 ponnds) per an m un, . ?ea "? I anT'"'"""' T"'*^ ^^ ^^"^'^ 8'> ''3,000
ininating at a^al Hurboir inside or^'pw. f ^''° """""' ^'o^t of Jloutc III tor
While the ciiHorcnce o^a ,;„rinl^ ;'on "^ r^i'*^ '^"•'•'^'■'^ !"'«'•
iitferon.o on cost of maintenance, ZZtliomrnof\ ""«^'-"'^^'«". "'''led to annual
Wii
I ic.',. ct (n
l«'imiti,sexce'li;nce:' ■"''■^"'"' "^ ^^«^"™^"lt, no obsei'vation i. necessary all
l^epo^rpS.^l^'^i^^^rS^!;" !:^^^^ t"^« ^oute n (,i„e6of
oemy,horoughly acquainted, be it reL'S-ed wlth''-"'"'^ ^'"'"^ an enterprising
v^^i^f^^:ixt;r:;^rti^^ ^--t --^-^ -^^ ^» <- than
round and in M.eir own 'adjoining SS^ I" ^^'"- '"'''^« '"''n-^'- on their own
taL'"' "''^"^' ''"'"«'' ^^'^^^ ^«"'d be d;u/;t;,,ti'^'"r'"7 inju-y must be looked
huitablo pre-arran^^. nents afloat and a^ho,/ ^'^^''''''^ "°^'"«t' as far as possible, by
i>bHaE,'::n;rl.e\?o'ng Z-lZ-A"ZnnT '^ '' ''^"^ ^'"^t- 50 miles, uni„.
works; then 15 miles of ferry rvrcoavrT''"? ^""^ ""^ there and other costly
Wuvor Island, 183 miles.ttjn 'i^^^^^^^^ thence down the coast of
|of Volunteer Kngineers. «" lor that purpose by a disciplined local corps
t46
maiiiliinii, timl for dot'on i or (if dosirable) ooiintor-attiuik its iiiil would bo very
limitoil. It would bo very vuluablo an a Hocond line of Biipport, iind some f'uturodiv
it in to bo oxpottod the iiicrouning dovolopinont of tbo Pioviiico will justity its toii-
atruction.
Jtoute HI. (No. 2 of Beports.)
Route II [ (No. 2 of Iho reports), torminating in Burrard Inlot, Ih, no d.niliu
inferior to Route II, terminating in the oxtremo north of the Province in Fort Simp-
son, as to quicker transit from AHiatic countries, but not to such a degree as to out-
weigh its manifest advantages under condition of the Province for a very long titno
to come.
It is not improbable that by the general direction of this line. Route III, and ita
80 passing down to Burrard Inlet, some addition to general overland traffic may be
gained from the United States' side of the frontier, including in that some of the
ovei-Hoa Pacific tratK- of the United States.
The United States' partially-executed North Pacific line, when completed uiul
with its branches up to the frontier, will be expected to counteract this, no doubt;
yet, the advantages of shorter distance, with less expense, may eventually tell, ia
some degree, in favor uf the; Canadian Pacific Route III for a portion of this traffic,
under some future international bonding and through-transit engagements.
It is also evident that, to the gain of the railway and to the Province at large,
trade, mutualH profitable between the Dominion and the United States, all along
the frontier from the sea to the Rocky Mountain range, would be fostered and
expanded by this line (Route III), and not be confined alone to trading coasters from
ports iu Vancouver Island to ports in the United States. Such dovofopmeiit would
tend to settle up both sides of the frontier, to the gain and prosperity of all that
region, Vancouver Island included.
By Route HI, the interests of the part of the Province included in Vancouver
Island are as fairly regarded as the rest of the Province ; while by Route II, the
whole of the south portion of mainland, from Rocky Mountain range to sea coast,
would be disregarded.
One must Keep in mind that if Route III did not exist, the material interests,
E resent and future, of this valuable south portion of British Columbia, from the sea-
oard to Rocky Mountain range, would gravitate inevitably to the foreign branch
lines of the United States' North Pacific Railway; such branches coming up from
south to diiterent points along the frontier, east and west of Cascade Range.
The coast branch up, ft-om the future great and important port of Holme's Harbor
(United States), in the Straits of Georgia, to Semiahmoo Port (United States), 45 to
50 miles, will roach to about 15 miles from New Westminster, and, as a matter of
coui-se, in the progressive interchange of trade and communications between the two
nations, will extend to New Westminster.
Another branch will probably also reach a point higher up the Fraser, nearer
Hope.
In the absence of such line as Route III terminating in Burrard Inlet, the
results, as stated above, are self-evident. It cannot be otherwise ; they would be
ruled by the irresistible law of self-interest. Self-interests becoming strong, estab-
lished in such direction during peace times, it needs but little sagacity to foresee how
great the strain on the sense of duty might be during a period of war amid what
would then be a more or less mixed population (however loyal) with material
interests directed southwards.
Any results as above would no*^^ only be effectually counteracted by line, Route
III, but, as before stated, additional gain may be looked for from over the border.
Let it be borne in mind also that nothing orth of Route III can be drawn away
anywhere else but to branch lines upward from Route III, and to any northerly lines
formed within the Province itself, from the coast, and connecting with the main over-
land Hues somewhere.
.M.
14T
IcwootnHovidont that the interestH of tho Province may bo oxpoctod to bo con-
goluJatod iirul iidvancod. together an a wholo. und in coramuniuii with the Dominion
lictlorby Itoiito III tiian by lloiilo II or by Uouto I. '
The conligunitiori of the country provonts mudi a perfectly satisfactory main
Jiuo (d direction m on the eant of the Kucity Mountain Range, but thank«to the Hkill
intelligence and perHeverance of the engineoi-H, it \h a very good one indeed, as a
glance at the map will show, and far bettor than could have boon looked for acro8K
(tiu'h a dittlcult country.
It is alHO to 1)0 hoped that branch linoH, north and south, will follow early, giv-
ing facilities for inducing occupation of promising tracts of country suitable for per-
manent Bottlomciit— I mean that shall be permanent when mining interests and thoir
noedi, may begin to wane. It is very ccrtiiin, however, that metals (precious metals
included) exist, may almost be said to abound, in many parts of the Province, though
«t present, the ( Cariboo district is the one worked.
For many reasons ot great importance to the Dominion, as well us to the Pro-
vince in particular, it is extremely desirable at the earliest period, with the main line
on the mainland, to construct also a railway (fj8 miles) from Esquimalt to Nanairao,
as a Dominion undertaking; and that every means of encouragement bo also givon
imluciiigadense settling up of the cast side of the Island, equally so with all the
ec-iith jioitions of the iiiaiiilund, especially the portion from tho coast to Yale ou both
Bideool tho t-rasor.
p the Fraser, nearer
Soil and Climate.
As to soil and climiite, and general fitness for agricultural and pastoral occupa-
tion, It is a siibjoct that would require a series of notes apart from these.
As comip'/ from myself, it may be sufficient for mo to make the few followinir
observations ■ — *"
The district on the mainland on both sides of tho Fraser, from coast to Hope.
traversed by liouto I 'I, taken goiiorally, and tho land suitable for occupation on the
east side of Vancouver Island, taken al.so in tho same general way, are quite on a
par with eachother; there will bo found no diflerenco either way of any moment.
On the mainland tho winters, though not longer, will, as a rule, be fonnd some-
what of a lower lomporatuio than on the Island, though brighter; tho summers in
«omo degree warmer, and as clearing and occupation progress, with rather more
Bettled weather.
Careful and daily (at regular hours, 9.30 a.m., and 3.30 p.m., and maximum and
minimum, day and night) meteorological observations of every description, with
excellent instruments, gave advantages for forming an opinion of the meteorology at
that time of this part of the lower Fra.sor.
In both these districts, on Island and on mainland, there aro— as might be
expected— places varying from each other in climate and soil. From the configura-
tion and position of Vancouver Island it will probably be found that the local varia-
tions there are tho more numerous.
Decidedly advantageous as hAV districts are at present for dense settlement,
thoywill bo still further impr jved i .* much of the forests are cleared, marshes
drained, rivers embanked and M)il cultivated. It is of universal experience how re-
markably great and beneficial are the changes, in all new countries, produced bv
such operations. ''
In the above-mentioned district on tho mainland, tho periodical annual rise and
fall of tho River Fraser for the short period in summer was carefully observed. The
dates ami height to which it gradually rose, and then as gradually receded, were
remarkably uniform, and could bo relied on almost to a day, and to a matter of inches
day by clay.
It would bo a misapprehension to be under an impression that such portions as
Bie covered y the rise of the river, and then only for a short while, form an appre-
ciable area of the whole, or that such area is covered to a considerable depth.
148
and ^:!::::^ ;;;; ;::;:'g;r,tri2,srr 't' ^'"" ^''° -'^ •- -" -'^—- s
totho lull. Thisluttei-c.c^lnncowm^ depth of winter), a,o tilH
ana just at tho vcrv timoZT^yZod """'^ '"^ ^' '' conMclomble 'ndvanw^^
value. Embankme..t8 that shou d ho n h . . ,1',! depoH.ts a Hediment of ,r,eat
as to accept the flood-wat^- a twU and i fowthedll i ^? "" n', '^^'""'^ ^^ ^« ^""^^'^^
after tho subsidiD-r of the flood In «hm!>^!' "- *''''" ^^^ J'"*^'' off durii,..or
It Hhould not be fomoSihat aif . !'• ^ l'"^ °"^ '^^■^''' '' ^"°^^" "^^ "warpi,?,"
rise of ..iverwill heiJZTaTohori^Zllf^''^^ embanked, the final hei^lu^f
qnay^llnd;|Siralo:^t"';l^b:S^'" ''''''''''' ^'^"^^ embankments and i„
the hiS%i^e':;i'dr;£.Z;:'^ or the.eve:y lands will value them p.-obably at
^o^^^i^^ll^'^^S'i^^Z^S between Cascade Ean,e ..
gjve^?s;:^';c^;:,?te;"^Stt'is;d:'^ -^^-^'-^ ^« -^-^i-
think, however, it will be found that ho nl/I T" '-''ff?'*l"^'e« "''e not material I
either agriculture or pa^tu.x" in tl e outhe n L rr''" ?'" '["'' " «'^"""^' "P-" '°
present assumed, and that the climato^s im I- ^ S'-ea/or than it appears is at
to such occupations (parti ula 1 as se ' 0^^" '"^ ''\'\' ^''°'« "'»•■« ^'vorabl
districts. Both, howeier, can be^-us' Iv rccmr If ?°^ T^ '^"" ^"^^^ ™'""« "«''ll>«'ly
That this should borecoivc.;TKu '""''■*''■ "'*e"'«»^«"t-
«onally acquainted with ire" unTr\rLtSl;"\'T P-'— ot Ion. per-
perseverinir cultivation of the soil and in ,l,?.fn ^f '^.'^'^'^ experience there in a
at. It will demand not a little Sbbv ho ! i ^' '"''V " ""^ '^* '^^^ ^o bo wondered
Europe to believe that Xat win^il^ 'i::i"" '\^''^^'''"''M'arall^
3,000 feet, and other grain at even mo e C "'if J'"l "' "'^'^"^''''-^ ^''^'n -.50" ^
truth that in acounTry known ^oZ^istn?'^' T .'^u-' ,"^ ^^''"^'"'^ ^o accept the
fitredced with lofty mountanlffe/ruod w L ^ ??'^''' J''""^''"'-^' ''"""^'''^ '-""i
Burrard Inlet, has'I^^: '" f„ ^^Ji^toOO Oof /f ' "''•^r'^^' ^^'''"-"^-^ -
Eo.e II _(Xo. e ofreports), and tho^^^ff^l^S-^;- .-^«) ,U.«^
roads ^iti^nVirhlttbM^^^^^
constructed in portions along tho line a dTuch ?.o.T"''"k"''^' '"'^ cconomicallj
public as well as by the engineers f^iLflM P""'°"« ^o at once used bv tlie
The economy thus trf^gTined by lute n[ T"''^'''"^ ^'''''''' ^'^'' ^""''^•'d'
very great. It h'as been con<?dered in the esti.Inte '" ""'^"''^'"^ '^«'°^^ ™"«^ ^^
aund,y;o?trs 2nr;,"wXrS:^^^^^^^^^ -<i ^nng into use
tate earlier settlement. The romuL'av '"'/'• ^"'^ "''^'^ encourage and faeili-
will be found much greater anZ.^chsooneS^^^^ l^'^'' Proving of all this
There will bo an acc'elerating .^t" of col ect vlt^ "{ "t first, perhaps, be supposed.
The above, coupled witftlfemmen^^^^^^^^^^ to Province and rL Iway.
of maintenance, form altogethe" an ^em ffiS'" ''^'°-', ''^'""^^ «"d ^"^
Route III. ThemoresoastherocTnbon.T n,K ^ consideration i„ selecting this
and with branch lines early added Sa tor com nu-'n'^'r ""'''"" '^,' "^"^^ J^^pofurviovr,
roads formed, all reaching to and 00^!^ nn rj""- '?f f ^''tiishod and waggon
-.11 be a long time to coSe in'^SatKvfn:o''S?; S !.' "ctl' '«• Tl'r' '
>,ui.ii!, .^ can DO cr!c!;tcd bctwoeu
149
mbankments and
lovenue and the cost of maintenance, with interoHt on the capita! borrowed for tho
wnstniction of the railway, mot in the meanwhile, it is to be presumed, by some form
of Dominion taxation.
Were it not tor tiie groat advantages to bo gained to the Dominion at large by
the ovei;l^dJiiie,_conmdered as a wiiole from end to end, the cost of overcomin'-- th&
difficulties on tho Pacific fiido of tho Eocky Mountain range would probably "hav©
ilefcrred tho condtruction of that portion to some indefinite future tinie.
In reference to the approaches to th 3 Pacitic torminuti of lioute III at Burrard
Inlet, the opinions which have been expressed by naval authorities are Vi:-yy properlr
t;uarde(i. Their responsibilities in giving opinions on such a matter are great. They
point out everything fully; they counsel caution and attention ; they do notcoudemn.
Happily also xor the public service, carefully accurate surveys and t'uII charts ori
a large scale, have been made by the Royal Navy, and are published and are also
jceompanied by equally full pilot instructions, published and accessible to every
one. "^
The Admiralty have accorded an invaluable service to Britibh Columbia in having
caiiHed this to be done.
The main channel and inner channel and ail the water-ways are now thoroucrhly
wpII known, and the first used by vessels of any class or size. It i.s the one preferred.
Pilots, if wished for, must also by mm be many In number.
Suitable steam-tugs will, no doubt, be soon forthcoming for such vessels as may
need them. ''
Very numerous proofs have now accumulated of the perfect practicability of the
route to Burrard Inlet for vessels of the largest tonnage engaged in commerce to and
from any part of tho world.
For sundry reasons— of commerce chiefly— it may be foun<l convenient, both now
and hereafter, for many vessels uf all classes to discharge cargoe.-. in Iv-quimault for
transhipment elsewhere, mainland included.
Of the excellence of that harboi-, no ditforcnce of opinion exists; and also of its-
convenient position for the needs of Vancouver Island, and for communication from
thence, with other distant ports, and to several nearer ones also. It will always
receive its full share of prosperity, and fortunately is a friend conveniently at hand
to any vessels, largo or small, trading past it upwards to other ports in tho straits
(such as Burrard inlet, for instance) needing at any time shelter for tho moment.
It is possible also that, for a while, it may be found convenient, in respect to the
overland communication, for passengers and light goods to be tranship|)ed at E&qui-
mault into local fust steamers alongside, and sent on at ^nce to Burrard Inlet torminus,
and for heavy goods to follow in other heavy steamers.
All the above may be found convenient for a while ; still, it is not necessary on
It is also to be noted that civil engineering of sundry kinds, successively from
, lime to time undertaken, can, at no extreme cost, further improve the channels, both
I the main one and the inner one. The immense strides in practical applications of
science, all will aid in the same direction. Electric lights also used when and where
found desirable, and so on.
It is to be expected the construction of the railway between Esquimault and
Nanaimo will not be long delayed ; and one may feol sure the engineering experience
and skill advancing so rapidly in these days will bo found able to devise and con-
, struct a suitable form of terry vessels (double vessel, p.-obably) that shall be of size
! Miftlcient (with stability and manageable) to convey short trains across to and from
Hurraid Inlet and Nanaimo in safety in almost any weather. Electric lights on
ward and ashore, used on occasions when desirable. There is ample depth of water
I at both termini.
It may be found advantageous hereafter to carry out such an arrangement, but
I again, it is not a necessity, on account of the nature of the channel.
With rtispect to Durrard Inlet generally, whether the outer harbor. Enalish
: J>a>, or inside in Coal Harbor, or at Port Moody, all are approved of, and they are,
i «ach of them, capable of further improvement for requirements of almost any magni.
160
If
tudo. Port Moody is the least convenient, but from the chart it would seem thai
none of the three have less total area of anchorage than Esquimault, and that th«,
possess adjoining extensive additional capacity. In fact, the whole inlet may be eon
fiidered as a port. •' "'
At English Bay a strong pier of some length would be required. It would i.i„
dose atVanT'""^ °' *'"^^'"' ^^^""^^ °^ **'° ^^^^ material and of any scantlini ''
Taking all points into full consideration, it will probably be found best to selec
a terminus within the inlet. -^ ntieu
I do not know that direct contrary opinion a» to the " approaches" from oiilei
ocean to Burrard Inlet has ever been expressed. The differences have been solely o
degree and other contingencies, which may, after all, bo provided against.
On the engmeoring points connected with thiy matter, such as the aftbrdin.'
increased facilities and the carrying out sundry improvements at any time, there cat
be no material difference among engineers. j > « " ^un
The loss ofSan Juan Island is much to be regretted on many grounds. It of
of course, strengthens the position of an adjoining foreign power in case of war buti
does not necessarily give such possible enemy the actual command of the water-wav
llVuT 'i''""' 1 ^;\P''»«'^'«'^'>1« '^"d cii" be further improved. The nearest point i
which vessels would have U> pass, by inner channel, is live miles from the position o
L^^ H '"r^ ra.ght probably place a shore battery. It is assumed vessels won
pass under steam or be towed.
It is to be observed, also, this inner passage is not without the advantage of well
placed covering positions for defensive batteries. vauuige or well
««r,7w? distance between such covering defensive positions and assumed positions in
opposition IS from two and a half to three miles. \>^»iin>m
Hostile vessels in passing through main channel could pass at two milesdistanee
]'.±l'>^^\';'Sio force ^nr^ov channel v^onld have to " run the gauntlet " of many po«:
tions half a mile distant on either side, and some nearer still ^ "^
firr,«lT'''i'^Tr!K*'?*'''^*''^i'''® ?"8^ ""^ ^^^'I'^'T ^i" continue to increase an
ZtJ^Z ' ^"' '^^^ the inner channel ; even then, it seems evident fire from hostit
shore batteries may be disregarded.
.nnfl" '■*'^''™"P® '« passage from Vancouver Island to the mainland, in a temporaiv
Saanicf TnT.t "^n"' "°*'^^lr' ""' ''^^^r.'^ ^"^« ''««" '^^''^ «f ^^e advantays if
baanich Inlet. There possibly may be (I do not know that it is so) sundry draw
t™«, ^-^T'"/ ""f^'y "^ '^'' i»[«t under ordinary circumstances, bJt under S
temporary incident of war, a transhipment by short railway (made early) from
mSTn oii^.^r f S"^"i«hlnlet (a distance of about eight^miles, and c2m c
ment of projected railway to Nanain.o) would altogether avoid both the main and
the inner channels, passing the San Juan group of islands.
This would offer a convenient alternative during such temporary period It^
construction at once would not be a large expenditure, and would^e in fu he'ran^
of the railway projected between Esquimault and Nanaimo
«. 0!?"''".'"^'°^'""''^'^^°'''''^'^''^ through to Nanaimo, still further advantages, as
an alternative, in time of war would be gained. uuvaiiui^es, as
It has already been observed that a railway by Route II and also by Route III
would, in war with an energetic enomy, be liable to risk of temporary inju y
£n ?h'''°"*'""^"'^"'^ *'°"^ "^*'^°''' «"'l ^^''^ «»«»^ '"J""e8 could be Sly
restored by arrangements previously organized. It is to be expected also that effective
oneration To"^wrh ; ^""'^ ^^'"'} 5°° ^"'''' «« '« ^"^« "!> ^"^ '^'^^ove, would be in
operation to watch, to repel and to counteract an attack. The Province of British
C&lumbia would not be the only part of the Dominion or of the worW Xere ra^wa p
fs n^'.Wnf •^tf"««"«f'!«ib'o to temporary injury by an enemy, but such liability
i«Li^ P ^ ^*'l/" ^''°"" ^°'"S «« '°°'^*'''^- Not- should it be forgotten that in the
open to risks, are of aid in d<>ff.nr>o nnri nv«r.f o....:i : i.;_-j ^y . { '
' • <"•'<< <<• ' ./iiitjiiicu lorwam movcmon;
161
li;-
lole inlet may be con-
found best to select
rther advantages, as
Such a base of operations as a navigable river, a railway not far distant runninir
behind it, and a tolerable breadth of country (in possession) along the front of i*
with both flanks secured— sea, occupied, on one side and lofty mountains on the other
—is not without very connidorable advantages.
It may be noted here that between Hope and Burranl lidot, about 60 miles, the
depth of frontier from whence raids might bo oxpeete<l would be about 30 to 40 miles.
From neither flank of that disiance, from local circumstances, would a move-
ment, however, bo very likely, and from any point between, through a dense popu-
lation, previously organized, and acting with additional forces on land and on the
river, naval and artillery, the advance of a hostile force would not be altogether easy
Burrard Inlet is remarkably adapted by nature for secure defence against any
force by sea. It is secure trom land attacks from the north, and the formation of the
whole neighborhood southwards to the frontiei-, and for many miles eastwards is
(iucb that an approach from the frontier wouiil, under defence, bo found all the way a
peculiarly troublesome matter by an enemy.
It is obvious a strong naval force will be indispensable in the defence of this
portion of the Dominion, no matter what lines of railway may be constructed. That
naval force will doubtless be supplemented by an armed local flotilla of varied con-
struction and armament, thoroughly well commanded and directed for the more
immediate defence of the whole of the straits, and also for service on the Fraser
Jiiver up to the highest navigable point.
This complete naval force will, doubtless, be used not alone for defence, but also
for attack, so as not to yield the command of the straits. It will doubtless also
where needed, give convoy to important local commerce in and through the straits.'
Ihe naval authorities will, no doubt, also move all concerned to bo early alive
to the importance of early local formation of naval volunteers, and we may feel
assured that as in the rest of the Dominion, so here, all best adapted precautions
military and naval, will be taken to meet the contingencies of war.
It is evident that if a foreign power holds the commanding naval power in this
icgion that not only will the lines of approaches all thi-ough the straits from end to
end, north to south, Bute Inlet and Burrard Inlet, be hazardous, but also the sixty or
seventy miles of approach from outer ocean to Esquimault included. For the Straits
ofFucus would be equally, doubtless more especially, otfenhivoly occupied, and m.
also would bo the approaches to the outside harbors of Vancouver Island.
If) o" the other hand, the commanding naval power be with us, it would pro-
bably not be long before the straits be in a position kept very clear from any hazard
afloat to vessels conveyed through to their destination.
The armed flotilla on the Fraser, with local land forces, may be expected also to
Keep a good account of their charge.
The condition, in short, of this part of the Dominion and its communications
would be equally little to risk with other more important and equally vulnerable
portions of it elsewhere, and be equally called upon to meet the exigencies and endure
the injuries of a temporary state of conflict.
The value at which in this particular question to estimate such risks and possible
injury under a contingency that may never occur, compared with all other solid and
progressive advantages, cannot be taken as so great as to supersede the latter.
Connected with this part of the whole subject it is well to urge the importance
as a l)ominion and as an Imperial consideration that this district along both sides of
the braser, and also along the east coast of Vancouver Island (especially between
iisquimault and Nanaimo), and also the islands in the straits should be settled up in
ine fullest manner „s eirly as possible.
The best encouragement would be the liberal formation of roads and establish-
ment of villages or small towns.
Both roads and villages, as far as practicable, in unison with general roads, to
iiave strategical principles in view. Such roads, and well placed" sites, in a fully
i:
162
populated district, would be among the very best of dofonsive works, and to ett'ect
thiB early is worthy of the serious consideration of the Dominion Government.
In these notes I have made no allusion to New Westminster, on the Fraser as a
terminus. It is to be presumed that it has been considered and rejected on groutida
that appear to be sufficiout. In another paper a few obuervations on this noinv.
may, however, not be inacceptable. ^
(Signed)
R. C. MOODY.
30th September, 1878.
I "
,ii I
; !
158
E. C. MOODY.
APPENDIX No. 12.
THE PHYSICAI. CHAEACTER OF THE PEAIEIE REGION OBTAINED
FROM AUTHENTIC SOURCES.
The Prairie Region ha« been arbitrarily defined in previous reports as extending
;rom the eastern boundary of British Columbia to a lino drawn northerly and
miherly from Lake Winnipeg. This great central area of Canada is not all prairie,
but a considerable portion of it, especially towards the south, is of a prairie
character; in other parts much of the Territory consists of woodland. It is, how-
ever, held convenient to retain for the whole extent the term of ' Prairie Region.'
The information in the following pages, compiled under instructions from the
Engineer.in-Chief, by Mr. Thomas Ridout, C.B.. is designed to embrace all imporw
tant information reported by the several Explorers during the yearl879, which,
together with that contained in Appendix No. 1 of last year's Report, is intended
«« present in a concise form all the leading facts found on record, respecting the
physical characteristics of this Territory.
154
EXPLANATORY NOTE,
The whole Territory is divided into sections, each section
one degree of Longitude in breadth by one degree of Latitude
in length.
The numerals in the margin, in a fractional form, thus —
100
indicate the particular section in each case. The numerator
referring to the Latitude and the denominator to the Longitude,
Thus "55 " means the space lying between the 55th and
56th parallels of Latitude, while "100" refers to the space
'between the looth and loist meridian.
The numbers printed in red on the map indicate tht
several sections.
The infonnation now furnished is from the Explorations of 18t9. The
Examinations did not extend north of latitude 56'' , except in the vicinity of \
Peace River, where they reached latitude 57°. RefereiKfs to Sections ^^
to^.
56
116
inclusive, will be found in the Report oflSIQ.
56
PROM THE 117th to thk 122nd meridian, and between the 56th and 57th
PARALLELS OP LATITUDE.
7 ^^7 Mr. H. ^. Cambie Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Cambie, O.E. in going from Lesser Slave Lake to Peace River, travelled
north-westerly through the southern portion of the section.
Passing through one strip of prairie, 10 miles in length, with rich soil pro-
ducing luxuriant grass and pea vine; also some small prairies on slopes tmn
the south. The other portion of tha road lay through groves of poplar and
spruce, genei-ally of small size of 3 to 12 inches in diameter, on soil of grey Hilt
••vKii two to four iiichos of vegotable iu>>uid."
See, also, Appendix Canadian Pacific Railway Report, 1879.
155
US, each section
jree of Latitude
p indicate the
56
llS Cami>ie Exploration, 1810.
Mr Cambie passed westerly from the mouth of Heart River, on the nortb
side of Peace Kiver, through the southern portion of this section.
" At the mouth of the North Heart River iho Hudson Bay Company have an
extensive storehouse, IVom which are distribute.! the supplies, etc., de'stined for
the Lower Peace River, and the Posts far north on the Mackenzie.
Here we crossed the Peace, and continued our journey up its left bank on
an open bench with poor gravelly scil, to the old trading post opposite Smoky
River, established in 1192 by Sir Alexander Mackenzie, which has now been
abandoned ; and then ascending to the plateau by the cart trail, followed it to
Dunvegan, nearly fifty miles in all.
The trail takes a moderately direct course, and is at one point about twelve
miles distant from the valley of Peace River. It led us through a nearly level
country, having an average elevation of 1,900 feet above sea level, with very
rich soil, about one-fifth prairie and four-fifths poplar and willow copse thei
timber being too small to be of value except for firewood and fencing. '
Of the twenty miles next to Dunvegan, fifteen are in large open prairies
with rich grass, and such a depth of black vegetable mould that proddinir
with a stick to the depth of a f ^ot, we failed to reach the sub-soil.
Between the Smoky River Post and Dunvegan, forty-five miles, we crossed
one running stream, the JSTorth Bruld, 10 feet wide, 12 inches deep, with a swift;
current, beside two small watercourses with stagnant pools, and we passed a
lake one mile long by half a mile wide.
The supply of water is scanty, but the route of the trail seems to have been
specially selected, with the view of passing between the heads of the streams
draining south into Peace River direct, and those draining north into a river
which joins the Peace a few miles below Smoky River.
o/jA ^° *^® whole trip from Dunvegan to Lesser Slave Lake and back, about
260 miles, solid rock was only seen once at the crossing of Peace River • very
few boulders were noticed ; and though some of the land is light, by far the
greater proportion is rich, and will become a splendid farming country if the
chmate proves suitable," o ^
See, also, Appendix Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
E 56th and 57th
laoe River, travelled
OKNERAL REMAKK8 ON WEATHER.
11 "'^^y'S^'^^^T^^ at Hudson's Hope, Fort St. John, and Dunvegan, are in the-
valley of Peace River, many hundred feet below that level, and they have alsa
the advantage of a great deal of heat, reflected from the adjacent hills. In this
connection it is right to mention that all the seed used by the people in the
i'eace River district has been grown year after year in the same ground, and
generally without manure, also that they have not the most improved and
earliest varieties of either grain or vegetables.
Eastward of Hudson's Hope it is said that snow seldom lies to a greater
depth than two feet, and horses winter in the open air ; when it attains that
thickness, however, they resort to the slopes of the valley facing the south,,
where the snow drifts off, leaving the grass bare.
We had been in the valley of Peace River, from the mountains to Dunvegan,
in the latter part of July, and the weather was then warm and mild.
The month of Auijust was spent between Dunvegan and Lesser Slave Lake^
and twenty-three days of it on the plateau.
i/uniig that time there wa»* IrosL on the morning of the 6lh, though the
thermometer at 5 a.m. had risen to 46°.
166
Again, on the 2(;th, when it was Htili 5" belowrtho fieezinj; noint at 5 a m
and on the 27th when it hud risen to 33° at 4 30 am ^ P°'"^ ^^ ^ «-°''-
^„ v!."o *^^ fu ''?■. ^^""""^y "^''y^ the lowest reading, between 4.30 and 5 a m
was 3!.° and the Inghest 65". The weather was clou; and tine, and in thealS'
shade ''"' "^^""^ '"""«^^ '"^ ^""^ '^'' thermometer 'up to 80° iU the
Froni the time of leaving Dunvcgan, September 5th, till wo nasaed Mnk
erly's Luke, on the 16th we were on the lev'el of the plateau, anrZhS
the tweltr '' '' """"'''"^- ^'^"'^ ^^ ^'■°^' "" -«i'^ nifeS out of
While breakfasting at 5 a.m. on the 9th, the thermometer still stood at20-
and on three other mornings it had not risen above the freezing Sat th\'
We had hno but colu weather from the 17th till the summit of P n« T?lv.
Pass was crossed on 28th, and from that time till wo i^LTed Quosnd on Oc
17th, It was decidedly wintry,>ith hard frosts." iJ"e«nei on uct,
11 giMacLeod Exploration, 1879.
T K *?'■• ^^"'^ ^- ^- ^^^''I^eod, M.I,C.E. travelled down Peace River from Sf
John to Dunvegan across the southern part of this section. ^ ^''
brom Si. John to Dunvegan the soil is rich andeuitablofor n.--v,Vnif„..„r
a considerable distance on each side of Peace RivoiTh««!ft-^°'
mences about the end of May The sorvio« hnr..J / " T^^, ^""^ ''°'"-
neighborhood of Duivvegan Tnd s't'; jZ^a^n^d tg^e gL^e'Lot a .rJel^/a!:
MudZL"^''"'"''"'""^"^""^'^ '' "^^'^ be'en^seen Tn "rSpring ni;;
Cambie Exploration, 1879.
DUNVEOAN TO FORT ST. JOHN.
.n.l 17'''"' V""""?^'?' ^^ t'-a^ell^J "O'-thwardforadayandahalf,say30milefi
For the whole distance, nearly 120 miles the nljitPin nr,ri„i.,*^<, -j
ablv mn.rin.r finm ^0|(\n^'<>A,^n.t 4- , "*"*' ''"" plateau undulates consider-
Jioiy, 1-anging tiom I,y00 to 2,4U0 foot above sea-leve . And for 40 milfls nftA,.
bottom. Iho slopes on both sides are much broken by old land-slid^
On he west there is a bluff of decomposed shale, and on the face of ^he
eastern slope ncany ledges of sandstone in nearly horizontal beds
»MtK r^'u "1 r T*"" °''^" muskegs, and had to cross one about one mile in
width which delayed us more than four hours
The soil is composed of white silt with a good covering of vegetable mould
bat for one stretch of 4 miles, thi« has been completel? 1 umfoff We £
passed over two gravelly ridges. ^ 'miuLou. we also
A few large prairies were Hsen, and many small onA« ;nw<,.,„...oH "•:"■
poplar and willow copse. " -..•^p^.„oa TT,...
1B7
zing point at 5 a.m,,
lace River from St,
intsrspersod with
Twonty.fivo per CO ;' tho distance lay throng!, wood, of .small „onlar
Bpnaoand black pino. x^'.ar Pine River :^orth there vvaH also a belt Ce
miles wide o4 Hpriice six to fifteen inches in diameter.
Fort Dunvcgan, August Ist-Sth. In the garden of the fort there were fine
crops ofwhoat, barley, potatoes, boet>.,cucu.;iber8 and squash, while at theT
C. Mission close by there wore fine potatoes, onions, carrots, and a luxur ant
but very backward, crop of wheat, a condition of things which Mr. Tc.sic-i- the
priest explained to us had resulted from a long drought, causing tho grai'n tS
he in the ground without sprouting till some heavy rain occurred at the .,nd of
May. August 28th to September 5th, wheat at tho fort was cut, but was no
perfectly r,pe; that at the Mission was injured by frost, and no hope of ii
ripening; all other crops had succeeded well." " uope oi us
Mr. R. McComell Exploration, 1879.
This information has boon communicated by Dr. G. M. Dawson Goolo<rical
Survey from notes taken by his assistant, Mr. McConnel. 1879 -!. ^'<^ologK&\
Mr. McConnell travelled northerly through this section, on his way fi'om
Dunvogan, on the Peace River, to Battle River of the North, about 85 rul.
fV,,.. r'"'"''*^'''"*' "V''^:^ '''^'l?'- reaching the plateau level, tho country punsed
through was somewhat rolling and dotted with aspen copse, but gradually the
rolls ceased, and at a distance of about six miles from ti.e river the countrv
becomes almost perfectly level; as far as tho eye could roach nothing met tho
view but a level plu.nw.th here and there a clump of aspen. In no'partof my
summer wanderings did I see any section of tho county vVhich, from L a-rricul-
tural point of view, surpassed this. Tho soil displayed, whore the traTl had
been worn somewhat .looply was a heavy clay covered with a rich black mould
often over a foot in depth. Neither swamps nor muskegs, and but two .nillies
were passed over or seen in any direction. Thi« style of country continued for
a distance of about 15 miles from the Peace River, and it tlin commenco^i
gradually to change for the worse. Approaching Hay Lake, thecountry becan o
more swampy and woody, while with the aspon were now mixed a considerable
number of spruce, a sure sign of a deterioration in the quality of the soil. "After
passing through a rather broken country, and seeing two lakes of some size
he crosses mimerous swamps and muskegs and descends into tho valley of the
White Mud River, about 45 miles from Lunvegan. ^
^■mI ^r**'"^ 7'^'' difficulty through this swamp, which is about three miles in
width, tho country gradually improved; first swamp and aspen bush alternatin<^
wi h one another, then all aspen bush, and at last an oj)en prairie. About six
miles from the foot of the hills, we came to a large stream, calied White Mud
River about 50 feet in width by about a foot and a-half in dei,ti., it flows in an
easterly direction and the country we descended into appeared to be its vallev
which IS about 15 miles in width, but seems lo narrow westward, anothei'
range of hills running from tho south-east appearing to almost close it u»
Between these two ranges of hills, and stretching oasu/.-ird and south eastward
as far as the eye could roach, is a large area of ma'/nificont country .^li-rhtly
rolling, and covered hero and there with clumps of aspon and willow "This
reach "f country, according to Ilalf-Breeds report., follows White Mud River to
Its mouth, and bears the same character throughout. This would make it about
50 niiles in length with probably an average width of 20 miles. It appears to
t)e about the same height as the plateau above Dunvogan "
« After lea,ving White Mud Prairie, the country grows worse, the proportion
of swampy land being on the increase, also the prairie land giving way to aspen
bush ; but getting past the water-shed between White Mud River arid Battle
Kiver, It again improved, and from thi? por^t on to Battle River, a distance of
about.5rnile8. It nrraintainod the same gone: d character, containing sca-cely
~i.' -> '-"^ »t.-^"o vuvereu -.vim a ihu .growth of aspen and willow, anu
with a very small proportion of swampy i. id."
118
" Battle llivor flows in a valley about a mile in width and about :iOO foot in
depth. The river itselfit, at low water, about7a loot in width and about a foot deep
durin-^ floods must be a largo sUeam of a coupio ot hundiod foot wide and threo
to lour leet deep. A walk of several miles up and do»vn the stream discovorod
no stratified rof<s in situ, though sever! bluffs were soon from 60 to 75 feot
high, but consisting principally of sand."
"According to the account of a Creo hunter whom we mot there, it rocoivcj
two branches from the south, each as large as itself, boforo rolling into Pome
Eivei", which, accoi-ding to him, was two days' journey from this point, prob-
ably about 40 miles.
"As a rough estimate of the amount of good land lying between Peace River
and Battle Eivor, a distance of 85 miles, I should say that fully three-quarters
of it is fit for cultivation, the rest being wet ; and tho greater part of the former,
including tho White Mud River Prairie, being really first-class land, equal to any
that I have seen in any other place in the North- West.
At Battle River the fall appears to set 'n very early, although it was but
tho 24th of August when we were there, yi-'t tho loaves of tho aspon were all
turned yellow and weio falling off. This appears to have boon duo lo the frostof
the 20th August, when the thormomotor registered 12 degrees of frost, as before
that they were quite greon, and on our way back, after re-crossing the hills, we
found them again comparatively green. This frost, according to Hudson Bay
Officers' report, wa-j quite exceptional in its severity at so early a season; but,
besides it, two other slight frosts were experienced on tho trip.
56
t2Q
»Sc«», also, Appendix Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
'9t hctd Exploration, IhTS).
if; . Macleod descended the Peace River from Hudson's Hope to St. John.
" Between Hudson's Hope and St. John the soil improves and is everywhere
fit for pasturage, and in many places rich and suitable for agriculture."
Gambie Exploration, 1879.
FROM ST. JOHN TO HUDSON'S HOPK.
" My trip from Duavegan to Fort St. John had occupied a longer time than
anticipated, and the season was now so far advanced that I did not dare to
linger on the road, but hurried on, keeping the trail to Hudson's Hope. Most
of the way it followed the valley of the river and was on the plateau only for
twelve miles efter leaving Fort St. John, for about three miles near Middle
Eivor, half-way between the two places, and again for a short distance about
six miles east of Hudson's Hope.
The soil is rich at each of those places, with prairie and poplar and willow
copse, also a few small groves of poplar and spruce four to twelve inches in
diameter.
On the benches next the river, the soil is in some places light, and between
Middle River and Hudson's Hope, there is one stretch, six miles in length,
gravelly and almost barren. That description of land also extends the whole
way across the Eocky Mountain portage.
We crossed only ono stream of importance, Middle River, which was then
four feet deep by 150 wide, and at tiff,> of freshet 450 feet wide, besides three
others from 12 to 25 feet across, with a few very small ones.
On the east side of Middle Elver, and about 15 miles north of the Peace,
a range of hills 1,000 or 1,500 feet high was obaei-ved running nearly east and
west.
..;,<
189
and about :iO() foot in
and about a foot deep,
jj foot widottiid ihreo
ho stream discovorixl
from 60 to 75 feet
mot thoro, it receives
3 rolling into Peace
rom this point, prob-
botwoon Peace River
t fully threo-quaiters
er part of the former,
ass land, equal to any
although it was but
the aspon woio all
oen duo lo the fro.itof
les of frost, as before
jrossing the hills, we
ling to Hudson Bay
early a season ; but,
trip/'
3 Hope to St. John.
08 and is everywhere
igriculture."
ad a longer time than
iiat I did not dare to
dson's Hope. Most
the plateau only for
miles near Middle
ihort distance about
d poplar and willow
r to twelve inches in
es light, and between
lix miles in length,
extends the whole
rer, which was then
wide, besides three
iS.
lorth of the Peace,
ing nearly east and
Fires wore raging in the bush in many places, and we had to rido throujrh
one bolt of woods burning biiskly ai Iho tinio, which wo did with difflcuitv aa
the smoko and ashe.-. wore blinding, and the boat very groat; fortunately
the timber was fuirly open or wo should havo boon stopped.
Bogaiding the country north of Poaco River, I noticed that from the oastorn
hasoot the Rocky Mountains, about twonty miles north of Hudson's Hono a
range ut hills oxtomlH nearly duo cast till it moots tho Poaco Kiver, about
twelve miles below its junction w .Ih Smokv River.
Tho tract of country lying south of that range, and botwocn it and tho
E eace, is gonorally lortHo, but that portion of if ■" -st of tho lon-ritudo of Dun-
vegan IS more undulating and at a slightly hir' 'vation than tho other por-
tions of the plateau in tho Peace River disti ,ich I had travelled over
and has an approciablo porcontago of poor soil. '
Fort St. John, July 30th. Tho garden contained some good potatoes
onions and turnips, and a negro named Daniol William, had a small patch of
excellent barley. On Soptombor I'^th the crops wore all ripe, and excellent
both as regards quantity and quality, but the barloy had been trodden down by
animals and much of it oaten, tho owner having boon arrested and taken to
JMmonton on some criminal charge."
See, also. Appendix Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
121 dmhte Exploration, 1879.
■' Hudson's Hope, July 27th-29th. The soil in the garden is a good sandy loam
and onions were very fine; all other crops had boon injured by a severe frost
about May 15th; beans were killed, so were the potatoe vines, but they had
started afresh. A little patch of wheat had been frozen, but had grown up
again, and a few stalks wore forming oars; carrots and cabbage looked well.
It was said that the frost in May was confined to the valley, and did not extend
to the plateau.
iq^k'^°™®^ ^*^^' '^'"^°''^'l '" ^^^ open air for many years, but in the winter of
]«75-6 twenty out of a band of twenty-four perished on account of tho deeu
snow. *^
Eoturning there Soptembor l-ith-16, wo found the potatoes had produced
only a very poor crop, and tho wheat had beon'agaiu frozen while the grain was
in the milk stage, rendering it useless." '
See, also. Appendix Pac. Ry. Rep. 187!).
FROM THE lOUTU TO THE 123rD MSUIDIAN, AND BBTWBE.V TUB 55tH AND ,5t)Ttt
PARALLBr.8 OP LATITUDE.
55.
100 >ioc Appendix Pac. Ry. Rep., l&ld.
55.
^^^ See Appendix Pac. Ry. Rep., 1979.
123—11
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
fe
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t/i
1.0 [fia
Hi
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2.5
s '^ Ilia
I
40
2.0
JA
M. 111.6
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Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
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4n^
V'
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■'^ ,.
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'C^ °l*i.
'<i
160
55
102
iU
D. a. O'Kieffe, Exploration, 1871).
Mr. Clarke Assistant to Mr. O'Kioffo, procoedincr soiith-easterlv fm.n i.\.'
Portage to Oumberland Hou.se, pus^.l through the .out'wesTem" '4-ner of thi^'
1 , ^t Pelican N'arrow.s, where there are Komau Cntholie and Chiroh nf Rn
hmd M,8s.on., and ajno a Hudson's Bay Post, small sTder^ofpoatoes w,;
seen. So.l clay mixed with a good deal of 8and. Intf the no t,Ce rn arnT
J^lirV^^ ^""^^ l^of-fiiver, which takes its ri..e in a lake Mno.rtl
east. AVhole region rocky and sterile. ^ ° "*
Sec, also, Appendix Pac. By. Rep., 1879.
_S5
'03 0' Kie^e Exploration, 1879.
HnH^rn„^!f''''°' P^*oc«oding south-easterly from Isle La Crosse Lake to Cumber-
land House crossed the middle of the southern half .f this section
From Papid K.ver to Frog Portage, where he left the English River tho
whoie country was rocky and sterile. After he left Frog PoSge the coun r
srn.fd?s;en^dtrh"'^^- --"' •^^ '''' "^^ -°'-- '^^^ woVtr:^
See aiso Appendix Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
55.
104 O'Kieffe Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Clarke passed thiough this section south-easterly on hia way to Froff
Portage from LaKe La Crosse. "^ *>
is rec^olS.*^"^""'' ^''°'' '" *'''' '°°"°"' ^'^''^"S ^"^^ '•°^'^' ^^"'i a°d swamps
^e T ^'■?°' ^''^ °°"*''? ^{^}^ ^°°''"^°' *^'"- ^'«"^« ™ade a branch expedition south
^l Y' i\ ^""^°' "^.^"^ ^'^' "^ ^^^ ^«"t^«»-° extremity of it. This lake is fu
offine fish, as are all the lakes throughout the country. On the portage a
the north end of the lake, some clay soil was seen, and pea vine andCcfare
spoken of as growing in the burnt timber. ^
See, also, Appendix Pac. R^. Rep., 18'79.
55.
lot) 0' Kieffe Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Clarke passed through the middle of the northern half of this section
on his way from Isle LaCrosse to Frog Portage.
He reports the river as consisting of lake expansions and short raniMs
iZu l"el" "" ""*'*'"'■• " "^'^ ^"'^"" portion^onSng^o'f tij^J
See also Appendix Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
-51
I05 O'iTde/e Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Clarke crossed the middle of the northern half of this section nroceedine
easterly on his way from Isle a la Crosse to Frog Portage P^ocaoms
161
half of this section
pine, po,,l»,:'and birch ™, "ho tof ™ oS,'"!!^?' " 'f "T "■ "^ "'"l'"'''"
is tamoroc." On Icavin" t ,i» .■i?!™' H,» T ° '°"! ''"'"■ <'i«l»n™, tho wood
.«5no.e^.u„„,o..„p.rK-^ur„t,tti"Ji::rf;'Si=^^^
See also .l^jpe/Kf^x- Pac. Ri/. Rep., IST*),
|55.
j [O7 0' jf/e/e JJ-x/y/orafjon, 187r
RiveSroSt:erSS'lX£aT^^^^^^^ ^"^^ ^°"^^ "" his way down Beaver
prop^./ioSanTfrmsrett:fiV"^?f • ^'^^ ^^'^^^ «--• assn.es larger
miles. Nean-ng L^La ^6 heS ^f^^'^'^^ '" width from one to two
the high ground, and muske' on MY i ^5" T^^^'J' ''''•'"* ^«''« i« ««°dy on
poplar%fl,oor quality Tho1narVos„nIU*''"-5'''5 T**^ ^'*"'^«'«" P'"« «°^
quantities of course g^asslrSratT^rT^ ^^"^^ «^^^« river produce large
the same thick gfeen aDDearan^ i p ^Tf ^^""^ ^^'^ ^'^^«'* P'-«««°t8
small particles of gfervegTabrit:^-^"^ ^'^'^ ^^ ^"^"-^ "^3^
farm aSd^f whTch ^^tt^ ^,i^^ ^^'^^l'- F^-^n with a small
their wants. The Hudson's %'„ J n ^'®°"*'y. ^aise Url^y and potatoes for
except some small patchoS for Ynf^r^''"^. t""}"'^ *« ^''™' ^ut gave it up,
mi.ll with ar^'prop'tS: ff^^SSsa^' ••'"^^^- ^^'^ «^'^ ^'^^'^^'^ ^^^o^^
muskeg! EKTenCal'r; eftremelv'^'T '^''""^ ^^^Hsh River, contains som«
vailing rocks I^tho ciSitTs iLr''^'/''^" ^° '^"^ gneiss being the pre-
IsleLa Crosse LaLwhicri?ehfcklv/nn?H Tu'^""^? '" alo°g the shores of
portion consists of sanSy pSs mu LTs In'^l^^^^^ ^'°''""° P'"^" '^^^ ^^"t*'^^"
of Lac La Plonge. To thoZ.lh „nH ^ * ^'^t **'»5''a« swamps Pouth and west
food tamaracafd spruce ""^ "*'* ""^ ^'° ^^ P'°°g«' '^«'-° ^^e some
See also Appendix Pac. Py. Rep,^ 1879.
11
108
55
See Appendix, Pac. Rj. Rep., 1879.
s section, proceeding | IO9 g.^ Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rop.. 1879.
H
32H-1U
102
55
no See Appendix, Pac. lly. Eop., 187.1.
55
ac
li|f
111 Eberts Expbration,—lS10.
Mr. MelchiorEbcrts explored the south-west corner of this section, and fou,.i
t« b° nothmg but sand h.lis and muskeg in the vaiieys, and no grass eZ'
on the borders of the laicos. Timber consisted of Banksikn pino, tamarac a
spruce, the latter covered with moss. -a-uaiat. ac
See Appendix, Pac. Ry. l?ep., 1S70.
112 McConnell Exploration, 1879.
from'JihSrto L^STa^ilche!""'-""""'^ ^*^™'"- "^ ^^'« ^'=^'^^^"' '^ ^'^ ^\
" Leaving the Athabasca, at the mouth of the Lac la Biche River the niJ
Grcofntrv "annL^'M T""^"" ^^ r^'"" ''"^^' '^"'^ ascended a sUgbtdovai
HhL« ""h^ appeared to be almost level, and to be a mere succession of aspeJ
It t?e foo? ont •' ^'" ^°^^^"^'"g ^'■«™ '^^' «l«v«^!o". we found a large swa^.; |
huJtTT\ ^^''\??^^ ^??^ '^"^ ^"^^""^^ *^« "^'^^ a"d explains why the road I
hugs jt so closely, but looking away from the river the country appears to be
S too 1„1 '''.""T^ of muskegs, the good land intervening between them bS:
01 too small extent to be of any use." " '
" -Lac la Biche is about 15 miles in length, and 4 to 5 in bread.h near ltd
fT^L ^^- '"^^ "'■"""'^ *^ ^'^'' ^'^'^^"S^ '^^t ^q""^! ^ that in the vicin V
about IPO' ?Jt"\:V ^""f- I' ""^^Tr' '\"«« '^^ f'-«™ '^' '«ke to a heiglft
^SL , ^ S^J Z'"''*'^' ""^ '« '•^ther rou£r»- ■ and some of the high.
£. 7.T- f '"''""J- ^i'"'., 'y ^'''* ^'^^ g^-^^tor part j land lying round t el
'^^', 'i?'"' W°^i ^"'i ^i". no doubt, some day, > gely settled. "
t,„,r,K J^ ^ ?i* °^ ^i'° ^.°'"^" ^''^^^''^ ^'^^'o" '^t ^«^°a ^icho is seen in the
number of small wooden houses and small patches of land fenced in, which
e ves ' vef ?n" T"' '^' '"^ t^'^'''^^ th'ese patches are usually s^aTn the;
iud3 that 1 L itL^^'Tu^ ^''t^ '""°""' ^"^ " good deal. From the stubble I
S f • il- *''^°P^ ""^* *'*''® ^®®° ^^'^T good, although I could obtain dI
Ssheries'^" P""* '^'"^ '" **•' iuhabfta^ts being all^away engagecfrtkl
See Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1819.
113 Gordon Exploration, 1879.
Little SlavrR,w\?r''°".r''''J '^°''° *^« Athabasca from the mouth o.j
« blaye River, in the south-western corner of this section.
At the junction of the two rivers the Athabasca is about 200 yards wide
Ser'flow "Jnt^ U^o"' '"'"i ""'/ '^"'^ '''''J ^'' ^'^''•- ^' broaden^ in Si
tL .„ 'a •*« current continues much the same for many mi'cs.
.:-..<
163
ofthis section, and founl
oys, and no grass exct:]);
iksian pino, tamarae aci
r this section, on his W!it
la Biche River, the road I
cended a slight elevation, f
lere succession of aspen
wo found a largo swamp
I explains why the road |
country appears to beaj
ling between them bein;;
6 in breadth near lis
that in the vicinity of
Q the lake to a hoigiitoi
and some of the hightr
J land lying round tbi!
j?ely settled." j
la Biche is seen in the
id fenced in, which are |
'6 usually small in them
ial. Prom the stubble I
ugh I could obtain iwl
1 away engaged in thef
isca from the nioutli oil
section.
s about 200 yards wide,!
It broadentt out in it<
r many mi'e.s.
Jrspersod with spruce;
m 100 to 200 foot ; tkl
luxuriant pastures, bii;[
McConnell Erploration, 1879.
Mr. McConnoll crossed tho south-eastern corner of this section on his
journey down the Athabasca from Athabasca Landing to Lac la Biche'
1 he valley presented a nearly uniform character throughout, ranging from
?.Thl ..K "^ ""'"f ' u ^T'^^^- '^^'' ' '^°'- ^'"'^'■"g from one sid^ of t1 ef alley
f^.l«L '■♦"ir^u''°^"J^^™'"g ^*^° '^°"«™ t« a't«'-n'«« from one sTdeTf
the streana to the other A rather singular fact is the decrease in the height
f ,M^f *if' ? \ " ?®'; ^^'^ '^ «"* important fact, showing the general
See also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Hep., 1879.
^'4 Gordon Exploration, 1 S79.
Athablic^!"''^*'" '''^"""^"^ ^'"'" ^'''''' ^'"^'^ ^*'^« '*"'! Hiver easterly to the
wid.h^Ji!.T'l"^^' *.''''' ^""'T*^^ •^"*'«t of the lake is about 25 yards in
width, very tortuous, hemmed in by low banks that are almost unifoimlv
wooded with aspen copse and willow, between which it winds wTth very lenU J
current at a depth sufficient for largo Hudson Bay Company? bolts^hfavv
Sr^ f.?' P°;- °K ^''^''' "'i^^"'*'- '^^ '•''«'• «««™« ««« lent saX loam and
where free of timber abounds in rich grass and pea vine. Ere it ioins the A?ha
basca the river widens to a span of 50 yards, and passes over a seHesof intlo
wottd?'' ''' '""'' '"""^ moreUed in "contoui^'tL^rh "ill Sei;
McConnell Exploration, 1879.
Mr. McConnell traversed f^e centre of the southern half of this section on
Athrblc^'"" *'' '"'*"■" '"'^ '^'^^"''^ S''*^^ ^^^« ^« F--t Assiii'oine on the
"Leaving Lesser Slave Lake at its outlet, we struck out in a south-easter) v
direction for Fort Assiniboine. After leaving the lake fo^a short distance th«
fbcTutifurJa'^^^' but gradually became firSer as we ad;:need,^peni^^^^
tiKvinPn Jr •"''"'■''1^"''"".''' "T'dth, covered with a luxuriknt growth of
wild hay and pea-vine. About six miles from the lake, came to a ranfo of hills
owing to almost continuous muskegs and swamps, and at the southern side a
large stream flowing into the Athabasca was mot with " «o«nein side a
Pa.t t fZf "" u- f°"*'' ?^^^!' f*^'^^"^ ^ ^°^ "d«« ^a« crossed, running from
Kinifrr?hJtor« l'^^''^"^'^' "■ •'*••«" '^'"^^"^ "I'""' 75 feet #ide.
aossed^alidt/nl f m' r°^'^°' '^'"f ™' ^«^'"S '°'« ^J^" first-named, is
uosseet and the valleys of both rivers spoken of as being very fertile.
,)nffoH K *'■ A ., °'" "*™T ^^® country is almost entirely open, being merely
dotted here and there with clumps of willow, but away from the stream it
~:?rvetd7'''H r^*^'" '™^\' g-wth of aspen.^^ through tSaspeu
inlTn , ?vl *"" '''"'"^ T^" ™''*^'^' " S'™P«° f'-"'« « Slight elevation
levcal.ng the same general character of country' extending indtfinitoly east-
this noTnt"to Fnr/"T«"'-^ -r '■''V^^ ''*"'' '^S'"" '^^""'«^ f'^'' ^he worse, and from
i^nis point to l<ort Assiniboino the countrv o-onr^nlU- vsrn- cT-^,- j j
of no .-alue for agriculture." counuy genc.allj wa= swampj or sandy, and
164
■u
I
I.
agricultural SoZ"^ '''' """■° "'^*""''« ''^' ^'' "^''^'^ «' all (it f!:
See also Appefidi.r, Pae. Jiy. Rep., 187U
55
115 Camhie Exploration, 18T9.
" w"' "^^" *'.■ ^"'^i^'o describes tlio vicinity of Lessor .Slave Lake ■- I
on An! t'io h inSro^^r;" ""' Vf ^r^^"' ^'"-^-'<^'' l.«0O^eet above, sea lev.
across S'llt r..o<>i kAV ? ^'"P""^ « lortof the same name. Our path led 1. 1
»b"?a rnil on eti; s de t'ich' '^^"r 1^' '" 'T ''- "-'^''--^^ which'Js borde, '
in sprin>r and d Hit tZ n.?. l / "meadows. They arc Bubject to overflow
visit they wcu'ene^HiiVS^n °* ^'" r"'"'"'^'' '^"^ "^ ^^^^ ti'"^ ^^ o,„
been' used to advSgc ^' "'""^' ''"''^■'' '^ '""^^''"- "^'^^^''n^ '"'yl't hav. j
iarg^jr? j?,:;--^;LrS|ISt£y:e3?^^' ^° ^^ very nutritious, a.,.,
miles in rmrer'^wlTch^'is'''^""';^';'? ^"'^'^ ''^ "^ ^'''^"''^^ P°"''. "^-"tfo,,,.
• mile ii. lengtrw th a it c ', nnH "?f ''^ '^ .u ""^^^'"'''^ °^ ^''^""'^'^ ""^""t '
connected w hh Ihe mTn 1 d o' hvn n ""^''''' >' /l^" «r*' ''"''' ^'"'^^ '" ■''« t'"'" ''^
ponds are auitos^,XwTn^ '■''""".*?'"''""' ^'''■*'^ >"''«« *" length- Tlic^e
at an altitude nf 1 snn 7 V ^ "^ *^* ^'''^* ^°'*^^"- ^he success of these crow
levd of S pi £u ett"o?Thf » ""^J/'^^f ^^^ "-•"'y on the geneS
importance." ' ^*''' ^°''''^ Mountains, is a matter of some
Gordon Exploration, 1871).
Mr. Goi'don speaks thus of the Lesser Slave Lake -
excellentZy aSd fn fSl'n^ ' M ^^^If '"" i^'^' r^'^''' ^'"''^'■"g abundance of
rtr;KJ t:\^^^^^^^^^ swa.p.
McConnell Exploration. 1879.
Ifi5
very nutritious, aud :.
good land than would appear from a linotakon straJKht ncrtl. from tho lalco at
random For the next ten miles tho country is mud. m..ro woody the t!oos
nrmcmally consisting of anpen with some spfuce, and tho proporo^'of warn".';
land be ng very evidently on tho increase, until, about 20 „ iloi north of thTlalS^
It culminated m what is called " Lo Grand Muskeg," a belt of hui, 10 to 12 mo^
WK 0, running east and west, and wholly given up to swamps. I „ 11 wo Z\e
fully picked our w.yf,,r Uiree to four miles and thon'roturnod 0,710 ho
edge of "Le Grand Muskeg" 1 should say that about two-lhinl o f ho lanS
Ly Tm?,;'se!^'' ^^^^ ^°''' '^° ™'"''^''""' '^"'"^ '"" '^^^'"•»>'>' '" '- "^"f"" '-
Mr. McConnoll was informed that north of "Lo Grand .Muskoir " the countrv
gaiSr. "^ ^'"^^ '"'•-'« "^■'^'^'-% '•^'^^ «omo very good laud and a few
See also Appjitdi.c, Pac. Ri/. Hep., 1879.
ii'
5i
ii6
Cambie Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Cambie crossed tho centre of this section, proceodiiiir north-onslorlv
from Littk Smoky Eiver to Lesser Slave Lake. ** ^
.n/l^?"^u'".l"^-V'° f"""® ^''."'■•'^' "^ "^°'" '^'•^^■«" "^''o*^ wo passod lro.,u()is Lake
one and a half miles long and three-quarters of a milo wide '
It discharges into Little Smoky iliver, being about 230 foot hlL'hor and is
r,- ^^^J^i Pevonteon miles from the Little Smoky, wo crossed South Il.mrt
River, 60 foot wide, shallow, and with a current of two miles ,o ho r^unnin.
in a valley a quarter of a milo wide and 60 foot deep. ' ' ^
Still continuing the same north-east course for about olovon miioH with tl,,.
Zv«TnV '*r"^"X''h T ^'"''^'^' ^""'^'^^ l'-*^''' t''" W""^"^''" ^""i <'f I^esser
Slave Lake, into which it discharges.
^,,^J^^^f''I'^'J^''^'^^^''''S^o^'^^^<^toSonthneiivtR\voviH not so swampy
^LL ^^^' -1 "'^ ^^ ^""-^T ?' .^°^'^°°" ^"^"^y ^'^«'' "n^ II''" "«l<o, but the
timber and soil are precisely similar.
For one and a half miles after crossing South Heart Kivor wo iiasHod
swamp halfa mile m width; but from that point to the hoad of Lesser Slave
Lake, our path lay along the face of a gentle slope facing tho south-east, through
a prairie of good grass, pea vine and some small sage, with poplar and willow
cops©.
The soil is grey silt, with several inches of black vogotablo mould "
Mr. Cambie travelled north-westerly through tho no.thoni half of this
section on his way from Lessor Slave Like to Peace llivor.
"At Lesser Slave Lake we wore presented with a supply of white fish
weighing from three to foar pounds eacli, similar in every rospoct to those found
in the great North American lakes.
We loft there August 21st, on our homeward journey, following tho Hudson
±Jay Company 8 cart trail in a north-westerly direction towards I'oaco ilivor
About eleven miles from the lake we crossol tho South lloui t llivor which
was there 40 feet wide coming from the northeast, and followed up some of its
smaller tributaries to the twentieth milo. ^
.u J^™®^?''®« ^r^-fier we crossed a creek about 8 foot wide whioh flows into
the North Heart River, and followed the general direction of that stream to its
confluence with the Peace, three miles below the mouth of Smoky Jliver and
111 tj'- five from tho wostorn end of Lesser Slave Lake. ' '
l(M
I
55
valley beinff 700 feet deen W« nrnJ!i a • I ' fo«'^.,'«^ide, Us immediate
See also Pac. Ry. Rep., 1S79.
•J : I
^'^T Gamble Exploration, 1870.
plnleaS ^ '" "'"" *^ ''»' ''««P "'"l wo milo. wM. at th. lev" „n[i
♦!,<. vH^° ^''° ""™«''0U8 swamp meadows, but very little if anv trnA n-oi.v
nin. « .ighJn i^rrdiZoC rl^o'Sd"' """ '"" ™»'lS.wos of .p,,.
»nd ShSTar.'';:;;jaro"r;jH^fo°;;t,r,oS!'sr ^""° - »" ---"
courso nTu ^f ^,^""«^-'"S to find that I had boon led many miles out of my
current 4 milo.s per hour ' ' ^"^ *'^° ""'^ '^ half foet,
in tlfirSToSoJ.Ua?nsfo1l'^ •'^^ its principal source .s
Hhin,WeV™ire" wfSl'omotr J'""' ''T' f "^'^ ^"^""^^^^ '^«"'J-'« «"J
M<
m
id way to Lesser Sla
small h 'Hows contain-
across swamps, and
our hor.-ios over. No
It IS worth mentioning that a littlo before we reached this stream a stone
about the size of my fist was met on the trail, and all the members of my little
party stopped to examine it, not having seen one of any kind for days before."
D,iwson Exploration, 1879.
Dr. Dawson, crossed this section in its south-western part, on his way from
i'lne Pass. ' •'
"East of the Smoky River and southward towards the Athabasca the prairie
country is quite insignificant in extent, the region being characterized by
second growth woods of small size, which on approaching the Athabasca are
replaced by extensive and well nigh impassible brules and wind-falls in which
second growth forest is only beginning to stnigglo up.
Ihough the prairies are most immediately available from an agricultural
point of view, the regions now covered with second growth and forest where
the soil itself IS not inferior will eventually be equally valuable.
See also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879."
55
[ll8 Dawson Exploration, 187;>.
Dr. Geo. M. Dawson, D.S., A.R.S.M., F.G.S., traversed this section from
west to east, south of its centre.
The country is described as high plateau to the west of Smoky River,
with extensive areas of prairie country, either perfectly open and covered with
a. more or less luxuriant growth of grass or dotted with patches of coppice and
trees. What is not prairie or coppice is de.-,cribod as being generally covered
with a dense growth of second growth aspen. On other parts some of the old
forest remains and consists of large aspen and balsam poplar and spruce.
Ihe better class of forest is found in the river valleys.
Sec also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1S7D.
i5
Lake wore all gianiti) I '^9 ^""'*«« Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Cambie, in travelling from Dunvegan to Lessor Slave Lake, traversed
the north-western corner of this section:—
A !','^'^®.?™* ^''"'" ™''°*' while ascending;to the plateau, were through timber
and the soil appeared cold and wot. Again, from about the twenty-first to
tbe twenty-third mile, wo passed over a low ridge timbered with poplar, spruce
.ind willow, where the land was cold and wet.
The balance of the forty-five miles was through prairie and poplar copse,
with a few willows in low places , the proportions were about one-third copse
to two-thirds prairie, with grass twelve inches high, growing sufficiently close
to form a sod . o > o o j
The trail follows the more open parts of the country, and it is probable
that the proportion of wood land at some distance lo either side would be
greater.
The soil, with the exceptions above mentioned, is a grey silt, with a few
inches of vegetable mould.
About twelve miles from Dunvegan we camo upon Ghost Creek, twelve
feet wide, a branch of the Brule River, which wo crossed at about nineteen
miles ; tlie latter is fifty feet wide, and empties into the Peace fifteen miles to the
ejist of Dunvegan.
H
16fl
!
, li.
S5_
120
in ajnorth-east courHO fo. about ivo'S^nnJ Z ""i' 'T"^' '^ "-^^
SCO section /,V for l).-. J^i.^.tiWiTtir'' " '"'" '"^"'^' '^'^•''^'•'
Soo also Aj^pcndix, Puc. Jiy. Ji,p^ ]879.
Soo Sec.
55.
121
55
iVV lor Dr. Dawson'rt description.
Sco t.lso Appendix, Pac. Jdj. Jicp., 18VJ.
Caminc E.ridoration, 18; 'J. * '
Mr. Cambie entered tliis section at li.; iw„.fi. ... .
»,outh.ea8terly towards Pine I{im-. "^ •"" tl,.Nv,.st«,.n |H.,nt, nnd c^u.lk.
HtJDSO.N's IIOI'E rr) I'l.NK UIVKIl,
weieft next mornin^andfo !.;,"« .nl" fT ' "--'^'"^Iv.
ira.i ascends from Peace Eiver by I e rio ,^' In ... ^'" '"';'>' « I^'*'^-«- '^'l^i*
miles reaches the plateau, which iJ ^1^0 ab ut • mJ' "/"^k^ ""' '""I^'^ ^ ''"''
the bottom. Some portionrof thi. a,^ .^L T" ""i"'^ ^''"^'* '">'« '» ^'i^th i,,
with a few small ^ilT^i'^S^'^^^'i^^''^-'' f''''' '''''''
prames at the lake, on slopes facinfffho south "™ '"'° ''"""•^ ^"^
iJotweon Moberly's Lake and Pino IfiVm. /i,.-„„ •
Hpruce, black pine and poplar but tho-nloInVf.? • "r '^ ^''""^ fe'''^^^^ "^
standing." O'^meter, having escaped the ravages of fire, are 8ti!i
See also Appendix, Puc. Ry. Rep., 1S79.
122 Soe Appendix Pacific Railway Keport, 1879.
3 »
1(10
Hivor, sixty foot wido I
llio hottom, and nearhl
Jro Wo eroHsod, it fl(,n,
into Smolty Rivor.
FROM THE 100th TO THE IIHtH MERIOIAN, AND HETWEEN THE SlTir ANI> ^,5x11
PARALLELS OF LATITUDE.
n |i'iin(, and l:;t
.■IMlilil
iod to obtain a ^niide;.)
alwont ; accordin;,'lv,
[oboriy's Lake. Tbi<
ind at one and a Imit
t above soa level, ami
n passes over a I'idge
the sonth-wostorn end
above sea level.
!ro:)8ed two small tarn-
Ih a small growth of
' of Moberly's River,
alf a mile in width in
3n, and others Ibrtile,
3 are also some fine
r a youDff growth of
r proved the existence
belts of that limber,
,'os of fire, are stili
54
100 See Apj.cndi.>{ I'acitic Uiiilway IJoport. 1879.
51
10 1 0' h'i'cffe £x]ilorafion, 1879.
Mr. Clarke passed through a small portion of the soiitli-ou.storn part of tiiis
section on his way from Frog Portage to Cumberland llous'o.
Just before entering this section Mr, Clarke passed out of the granite •iiid
entered at once upon Si.uri,ui limestone, which rises on all sides into fiitls 30
feet high ; these are deeply pitted on the face. The bod of .Stur.'eon Uivor is
one solid ma.ss of limestone. The country on each side of the river is low and
liil. I'rom this point to Cumberland House the country is nearly all swamo
At Cumberland House there is a farm of 8 to 10 acres, which produces l'oo 1
crops ol various kinds. The soil consists of sandy loam and in places stiff ciiv
It IS the only piece of good land in the neighborhood. *
See also Puc. By. J{,p., 1879.
51
102 O'Kieffe Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Clarke passed through the northeastern corner of this section on hi.s
way from Frog Portage to Cumberland House.
The north-wCst portion of this section consists chiefly of granite ridges
with a scanty growth of aspen and birch, and in the valleys a poor coarse grass.
About the centre of Beaver Lake the formation changes from granite or syenite
to limestone.
In the southwest portion of this section are large marshes, one on each
bide of Swampy Eiver, producing hay. Balsam poplar, tamarac and willow
are found here.
See also Pac. Ity. Rep., 1879.
51
103 O'Kieffe Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Clarke reports that " the north portion of this section is chiefly com-
posed of sandy ridges, with marshy meadows close to Bear Eiver. The east
central portion is sterile, consisting of a thin covering of moss on rock, growing
stunted poplar and birch. In the west central portion there is a good deal of
marshy meadow, and the south- east portion is of the same character. Alonf the
southern border is a tract of fair land." "
51
104 O-Kieffe Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Clarke, in his excursion south of Lac La Eonge, exariined the north-east
corner of this section. Speaking of the whole section, he sr.ys :
"The principal part of this section is occupied with lakes, large and small,
and muskegs. In the north-wost portion there are email sections of fair laiid south
of Lac La Konge and surrounding Egg Lake. Around the latter lake there is it
170
li
m
J05 O'Kieffe Exploration, 387!).
" The north half of Section ^n-'r^ ''*>*'f ^'''^'° °^ *^' ^^^ ««/« '
sectod with sandy rid Z the att« r^r'"'"'^ •"" '«'"« ""^ '""^kogH. inter
birc..andpopIaAnd5:;^HitalHp;uce ■ ^' '"""* '''*'''' ''"^'"'^^ ^•''' ^n'^^
Blopet'rd^rt^lVhSlt'r^r^/'T ^'^ '•^^ M-^-' fountain the
spruce and poplar. "'" composed of very good land, and produce ^mall
ii
1 06 O'Kieffe Exploration, 1879.
54
107 O'Kie^e Exptoratim, 18711.
to Isfo Lr'Sotfru" '""" ^'""°"^ ^'''^ ^-^->^ this section, on his way
vial iS in"piatnS::;"At «--' of good ailu-
is sandy and sterile. We river bank««-»^V"'"'!,^* '^'''''' ^'^'^^nc^ t^o la,.l
Thescuthorn portioralmift r.l„ t .^° ' ^"""^^^ ^'^^ «P'-"ce.
suited for .gricultuP,alpurp^^^^^^^^ Sberln^.K" g«"«'-«"y good land and well
tion is of very fair .uJtyf Sisti^n'gt?-?.?^: ^^ptSTan^a^lL '^ ''' '^
Soo also Pao. %. i?,^., 1873, lumaiac.
lOo /;6er^s Exploration, lBV^.
thissei'iiJn'l-'"''''""^ ^''^^""^^ westerly through the southern portion of
mile, where a dT>lightfuTchanie tTZ^ ™'''' '" *'''' '«''"°« "P to the 130lh
U. a heautiful roH^g ;^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^ o„
171
> plttoon bttliam. Th,.
Ila or mountainH ami a
•>*u<luuntityo( tnarnh^
u largo tmct of rnunkeg
section and onlorodiu
of it, ho says :
:o8andnm8kogH, intor
, covered with Mmall
)ntroal Mountain, tiie
nd, and produce «mall
and the south oastorn
of this section, travoll
ony Laife.
)mo lakes and rivora."
rthorn portion of this
r mossy muskeg, tho
h Hills, and has some
The timber is of fair
I section, on his way
consist of good allii-
3rt distance tho land
th spruce,
good land and well
>rn part of thin hoc-
I tamarac,"
outhern portion of
lit, leaving it to the
ion up to the 130th
)m the muskegs on
small poplar.
To the south, as far as could bo ReoD, the country appoareii tho same T.v
the north, from four to hIx miles, tlio dark lino of tho forest is soon. Tho lun(i
through th.H m very good, black and sandy loamit, and in tho Iwttoms alluvium.
Ihe Hurfaco is covered with most luxuriant grasses and votchos, oftoiititni's
HO matted and tangled that it was only by the greatest exertion one could m^U
through them. '
This imrt has good drainage. Numerous rapid stroarns, from 10 to -id foot
wide, with stony bottoms, wore crossed, and judging from tho purity of tho
water, wore, ovidontly, outlets of lakes lying to the south; those all (lowed
north towards tho Uoavor IJivor."
51
109 Merts E.rploration, 1879.
Travelling along tho southern boundary of this section to abo' c Ion KD'
80 , thence struck north-we.torly : —
"In tho south-east corner of this section passed throug'i a fine roiliri.r
country, sandy loam on tho ridges and black loam in tho bottoms; grass and
pea vino very abundant. From tho centre of tho southern part, and running
northward towards tho Boavor I{ivor, is a range of high hills, principally of
kiandy soil mixed with gravel and boulders on the ridges.
In tho bottom were meadows producing luxuriant grasses; on tho hills,
where lately burnt over, vetches and firoweed wore very heavy, tho inner tibro
of the latter, when gathered in tho proper season, makes a very strong rono
similar in appearance and equal to hemp." o i >
Many large fishing lakes occur among those hills, around which tho Indians
have their vegetable gardens.
. Tjio timber is principally poplar and epruco. Travelling to the western
Bide of this section tho soil becomes poorer, grass thin and sickly-looking.
Seo also Appendix Pac. Ru. Hep., 1879.
ii
^"^0 Eberta Exploration, \%n9.
Entered this section at about lat. 54° 13', travelling north-westerly t-i
Bea^ or Uiver, thence south-westerly : ~
"For 10 miles tho land isof questionable value, principally sand ; grass very
light and small ; muskegs more frequent. Lakes are numerous and well stocked
with fish. Timber, in places, large, of balsam, poplar, spruce and, on tho bor-
ders of swamps, tamarac. Thence, having passed the hills, entered on a level
prairie, tho country improving in richness of soil and pasturage. Struck a cart
road at 133rd mile, and in five miles reached the crossing of Beaver Kivor,
which is hero 130 foot wide, flowing from west to east through the centre of
this section in a valley 1,500 feet wide and 100 feet below the general level of
tho prairio. Cold and Goose Lakes, the headquarters of the Chipwevan
Indians, lie to tho north.
_ At 5;48th mile reached Moose Creek, in a valley about 1,500 foot wide and.
75 feet deep. With the exception of three narrow belts of sand, timbered with
Banksian pine, the soil is good and vegetation rank. Thence travelling south-
westerly to Moose Lake and along its eastern shores, passed some fine potatoo
gardens (frost of 19th August had nipped the loaves of some but did no harm)
Ihonce rounding the southern end of tho lake, rose on to a plateau (by aneroid
1,690 feet above sea level), tho highest ground yet found.
In the southern part of this section, through and along the Moose Hills,
the soil IS principally sand, supporting a fair growth of bunch grass, unfit for
cultivation, though a very desirable summer range for cattle."
Sec also Appendix, Pacific Eailwuy Jieport, 1879.
17:;
Ill
51
112
Ebcrta Exploration, 1S70
•lonhorn portion. ^'* ^'*-'"'' ""^ «ubsoquontly explored ila!
a-Ki i^c^; S'o'iS^jt'dS^^t iSo ^?;u oasr ''"' ^r^^'^- ^'^°« ^^^ -^^^
».ea.Uif„| stretch of countiy t^ o ci -iH r^ • "^ \"'' f,"''*^^^ °^'«'' •''"othe'-
rnilo. TI.0 soil was rich aL wa m and wl . t"",^ f, ^^^ ^^''''^' ^'''^'^ 291.
»br six miles over a sandv • d^e Zl^^^A '^"^ '^t^P'f ^ fo>- ^^ettlement. Thonc
to Gull Lak-e. l<>om t hiJ^to LUtlnr '" p- ^''"'^'^i'^" P'^e and small po, l^ '
ridKosofblael<n,,ds"indy]oam dlkl r*' ■^""'',^7 ™"''«- ^«« ehieflrov ,'■
.nilos fVon. crossing ofl^tS Be^t-'i fe;T^j;;,lt5^^"'^""■^'^>^^ Thnv
hommo, whoso crops of barlev wh«nf oLh f S'^iated the farm of Mr. Prud-
i'rost or. the 27th Jul3^ wh le {he crom on ^'^ i "'^ u""" ""^''-^'^ destroyed by
Avoro uninjured. At Lac lS Bi^he -fL n f '^^,^° «h°'-«. 12 miles to the north
from Carloton. On the Lufh shoii" n-^- '"° ' ^^^.P"'* ''« «''"''^t«d 320 mi£
BomanCatl.olicMissionTndfineo't p"^ ''^ successfully at le
part of August. ToCo has al?o hZ ^''J*'." """^ harvested in the latt
r« thickly t1n,bered wUh s^ and^^^ ^^ "-'^'^ ^^^^^
wptotho crossing of Owl River thnTfi • "'"' ^^^ "i^'cs north of the lake
. ngriculturo, bein| very broken aJd hL'" f^t^' ^"' ""* ^^'' ^'^^Pt^'i fo'
continuing north, passed nothn" but sSnis^^^^^^^^ 'T'"^ ^^' «'^«'-. «"'J
on the borders of the lakes. Timber consist of RanT"'''^''-'"'*^ ^^^^ °'")'
spruce, the latter covered with moss 'Tr Fh„l . ^T"] .P''^^' ^^'^^'-ac a"d
pp8t, on Lac La Biche, north-eaSeH y 25 mSt^ A™"""/ t'^ f'"^'" H"<i««'^'« ^''v
high, rolling country of litrht saK^i • , ^T^ ^*^«' P^'^sing over a
timbered wfth spruc^e anifo^;iar iuh'is lake t^o t T'^l""/ ''«"'^^'-«. »"5
gardens. Hence explored soith of etst a^far as th^ A '''"w "^"^ ^''^ ^^S^'^ble
Homo largo lakes wc"l stocked with Ln •« f"® 9^*'* ^^»*e'' -K'ver, passing
The soil Sn this part becomes iTearfh'i^^^ "°^ BalmoE-trout^
Hwamps and muskegs- timber nonl«n a ^'o^^t'-y is very much cut up with
»co also Appendix. Pac. Ry. Hep., 1879.
5^
See Appendix, I'ac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
' '3 6'on/on Exploration, 1879.
to likfrnonto';:!'" '''"""^' ^^"''^ ^^™"Sh this section from Athabasca Landing
Edm^^Tra^Sved'aJd'aC u^^^^^^^^^ t' -P-^^'^ train of carts fro.
for some distance south oftL T S'n"?.-.'te.i''':^«««' .'[^turned. The country
for some distance south o the Lrdin-f is hrn Jn '"^f '' .^J^t^^'^ed. The coun:
«>'8tpoor, butaftert^rntymSae^nl^^^^^^^^ *^« ««" »^«i"g
with luxuriant grass and% Tine watS bv frr*""! ^°'"^ attractive, !•
and occasionally dotted with ^neT • ,^1^ Sequent streams and lakoletn,
nartinnln..!,, A.„l ..., .''.."■'' ^„P«° ^«Pse. Approaching Edmonton, and
at
ich
<»!,> fin! \ . . V o.r"" •"' ■^■"'-j^. i/arge neids ot whent had n'.--r-i,- i "^ I"
onotield not iar horn Edmonton covering 100 acres.-and'tAetS oT t'he
h f
173
settlors were gladdened by an abundant barve.st. Wo caino unexpoctodly on a
little chunp of housoH overlooking tho Saskatchovvan, and a little lower down
on the river bank wo entered the centre of (he settlement, Fort Edmonton, the
most important Hudson Bay Company's post in the North-Wost Territories."
McConncll Exploration, 1870.
Mr. McConnoll describes thus the vicinityof Athabasca Landing:
On cither side of the trail in the vicinity of Athabasca Landing the country
was almost all a dense growth of small poplar or muskeg, the soil consisting
of dry sand and clay with a slight clothing of black mould. A Half-breed
trader informed him that this description of land extended out to Lac la Bicho.
See also Appendix, Puc. Rij. Rep., 1879.
Soo Appendix, I'ac. Ry. Hop., 1879.
See Appendix, I'ac. liy. liop., 1870.
Athabasca Landing
See Sec. /'j^; also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1370.
|5i
WJ Batcson Exploration, 1870.
Dr. Davsrson, proceeding south-easterly, traversed this section on his way
from Pino Pass to the Athabasca.
" The largest tract of poor land is that bordering the valley of the Atha-
basca on the north. This rises to un elevation considerably greater than
most of the region to the north and west.
This region is also very swampy in many places, and for a width of 20 to
25 miles on the trail from Sturgeon Lake to the Athabasca is quite unsuited to
agriculture, though in many places capable of yielding good summer grazing
where the forest has been completely removed by fires.
In the southern part of this section the country is quite elevated, and most
of the tributaries of the Smoky River rise at a short distance from the Atha-
basca. The tributaries of the latter stream from the north being, with the
exception of the Baptiste, quite inconsiderable in this part of its course.
The ridges and hills by which this region is occasionally diversified appear
in all cases to bo composed either of the generally soft rocks of the cretaceous
and tertiary, or of arenaceous clays containing erratics and representing the
boulder clays of the glacial period. Those elevations are generally slight, and
with exceedingly light and gradual slopes to the scarped banks of the streams
conntiiuting much more important inequalities.
54
|ii8
For description of noi'lhorn part of this section, see j"^.
See also Appendix, Fac. Ry. Rep., 1870.
; ! 1,
174
53.
ICO
FROM xn. 100T.r to the IIDt.i MB.rniAN ank bktwekn the 53.o an^. 54t„
PARALLELS Oy LATITUDE.
.7o/m Smith, M.D., Exploration, 1879.
.nu.sko. over whicl/thirpo? ago'^Lt^'helTea^^'ni'o'; M^^^'^^^ ^'"^' \
the Pus i!is8ion, canoes crnSemi Po , a. Ervl^h:''''''''r"' '^ ™"°-^ ^'^'''l
two n.iles in length and placed inanoT T.ll^l^^t^:Zo T T^' "'
pogosis at the extreme north-western point ofXwson's Ba":'- ^ ' ^^'""■'
See also Appendix, Pac. liy. Rep., 1S79.
lOl Dr. Smith Exploration, 1879.
a norfh-eSie^iy SctTn"' ''" "^"^"' '" '^'"^ ^'^^'^^^ '^^^ ^a.-ot Eiver, ;„|
with'irfla^'baX" "" ■' ""'"" *'" Saskatchewan, is almost 200 feet wide]
» 'in
See also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879,
53.
I02 Da 5m/VA Exploration, 1879.
.h. i?;A£i':r„t .Tsix^-rs- ^"-'^ "--' ^"4
.pot .. Th„y have buil. „i„" S.«i'altoa«, an^JStny "Sff
»a.er, broke„ only al .-are interval, byCeh., of go'oi d7y ffi." '"""' ""'
8 reported they are densely wooded witl large spruce pophir and tam.rJ
The summit IS principally muskegs and small lakes" ^^ i
the eastrnrl'r 'of' t'h:'stuor"and' n^m if' •? ^°'l '''''.''' ^'-•' "^ '
enters the " Great Rive J^^' i^'naViSle^^^tL^i^^tlSS^r^ S;!
nver banks are alluy.um. and a-e well timbered with elms SDlcrD^nL J
«pruco; outside of the river banks the country is marsh!" '"''P'*'^' P''P''"«''"''
See also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
m
N THE 53llD AND 54tii
passed almost throughl
light of 700 foet. "Ii
poplar and tamarac,
51
(103 O'Kieffe Exploration, 1879.
Ml. O'Kioffe entered this section a little north of the middle on its eastern
side on an excursion from Candle Lake.
" Down the river for 15 to 20 n-.ilos the land on both sides of the river is
good clay, black and sandy loam, clay and sand for subsoil. Land level on both
sides of the river, which is about 60 foot wide, and from 2 to 2J- feet deep
stony and gravelly bottom; timber, poplar, spruce, birch ami willow." '
McLean and Anderson, his guides, reported that belvvecn tlie Saskatchewan
and Sturgeon Rivers there was good land, particularly along the last-named
river. A bolt of sandy country extends between the two i Ivors, and on each
side the land is good. To the north of Sturgeon River good land 'with marshy
meadows and some muskegs, and numerous large lakes is the rule. On the
sandy country along the Sask-Uchewan stunted Banksian pine is found hut
north the timber is as above. '
Br. Smith Exploration, 1879.
Mr. H. B. Smith, in his voyage down Carrot River, ciossod tlio souvhcrn
part of tbis section, travelling norih-oasterly.
A little west of tho boundary of this section the river is oiilv 4i miles
from the Saskatchewan, and an Indian trail crosses tho river at thi * point.
Where tho river enters this section the banks are of considorablo hciyht,
but decrease much in altitude after the middle of tho section is passed, arnron
the eastern side are only about 10 foot.
About the middle of the section many groves of fine timber, consisting of
spruce, Biuiksian pine, poplar, birch, tamarac and jnaplo, wore seen often over
2^ feet in diameter, but much of the country was « bi ule. A little oast of tho
middle of the section the tirst exposure of rock insitu is seen. " An exposure
of limestone slate of a vwy soft nature was seen on the south side."
As far as seen the land seemed well suited for cultivation, and was
covered with a continuous foi-ost of the above-mentioned trees. As tho eastern
side of the section, however, was approached the forest became one of aspen
poplar of small si/.o, and tho soil light and sandy. In passing through this
tract the river hod is greatly encumbered "with very largo boulders of lime-
stone, granite and syenite.'"
The river constantly increased in width as ho crossed from west to east, and
before the rapids were reached averaged eight feet in depth.
See also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
the river, excei»ting3B53_
1 104 OKieffe Exploration, 1879.
Mr. O'Kietto passed for a distance of oO miles north through the centre of
this section to Candle Luke, and thence north-westward to Great Bittern Lake,
30 miles; on his return from Candle Lake to Prince Albert he passed south-
westerly a distance of 32 miles.
On the lino from Fort a la Corne to Candle Lake the land varies very
much in quality, but about the one-hilf of it is very fair land. "The land on
tho eastern hail of this section to about half-way between the Saskatchewan
and Sturgeon Rivers is sandy and poor. In tho vicinity of Sturgeon River the
laud improves and is good for agricultural purposes." In the northern part of
the section, west and east of the head of CandlH Lakftj there is some "ood land
also muskeg and some meadow marshes ; numerous large lakes are scattered
123—12
!.(
176
along tl.o western side
the north. There
53
105
mune m.o ; plenty of white H.h in the lakes and rimvs tL cii v !
general is gently rolling or almost level. country ,
Dr. Smith Exploration, 1879.
Dr. Smith entered this section about the centre of its floi.il,«i.n i>„ .
way from Swan River to Fort a la Corne. southoin boun,|,,|
The first 13 miles of this district may be classed as undulatinL' nrairin „ ..
«oiI of the r.chest character. It is also well watered bv twriSl mU ri ?
the Maple and Carrot Hivers. The Maple Itiver, at the p<>in Tc rorsin, ' ■
feet w„ e and two feet deep, with clay banks 10 foet high. ThrCunri?!;- 1 1
noint of crossing, is 2.5 feet wide and three feet deoi. wTth chrii^^?,! .?!„,''''*
Lgh. From point 01 crossing for eight miles low rkh land wit n" ^^'1
lakes until a rkl^e is reacdjed'70 to Ao feet above'h p aiWe evTl l.isrs?r'
slhTFo't' ^"'' "'""'" ''''' ""« ''""'^'y '"'' ^^•'^^ 4.4cuuuiarvri:;::xr;i:
thes^;h;^:,/pi^?^ii'£^::!,r'"'^''^""^^^^^^ ^'- -°'- ^
The land on both sides of the river is partially open and sli<rl,tlv im.lni., I
ingai the point of departure. The soil is' of the riches poslrbe^^ir^^^^^^^
bou.g clay loam from one to three feet deep with a .ub o ofel ay C b' f f
small ,M)plars may bo seen in all directions Three miles ei.t f m ii.^ \
:;;'d^: s:;'.^:r ''- ''--' ^'^ '-''- — --n"o!;Zei":i,'zi
obse.^:;;;,s:^.a;tirfSSrSs^>?"^
hes a thick .iratum of coarse gravel and sand. As far as couS be obsJ ve, I '
which alternately show dens^e brules Jd green^tin her Jo s Wtinir"^.^ n^^^^^^^^^^^
spruce and Eanksian pine of 12 inches in di^uneter, uverage 3(1 leot higl. ^' '
See also Appendix, Pac. By. Rep., 1679.
O'Kieffe Exploration, 1879.
Mr. O'Kieffe travelled in almost every direction thi-n..,,!. +t •
describes it generally north of the Sasllildrewm "bV fl ,e'b^^^^^^^^^^ t
hes between the above lake and Great Bittern Lake o Tl e n'ortLe ^ "^' ^'"'' '
Along the northern boundary of the section »hrt i... h ; 1 ,
north ^aru to the top of MontreafMountl .^ee )l) '' ^''"' ^^"*^ "'''"''
About 6 miles north of Prince Albert, a sericr^-Jand hills and rid-resfm.
Thk trT.; 'nV"''''.'^''1'^i ^""'"t''^ *'"'«"«'^ ^'"« «"^ti«" into he Zc sfeln
much gorxl a«,,on poplar is likewise Been i>anli8m„ p,„c, l,„
117
no voiy mipofior si);;i,,|
tor, poplars of uIh.iu , J
rivoM. Tho country li
af its soutliorn bound;,,
wnndulatini,'praino, wi'lii
•y two impoi'dintNtroiitn-J
10 point ot crossing', i,< iJ
if,'h. TheCiirrotI{iver,ai|
nth clay banky sovon fo:!
ch land witb numeioiiJ
prairie lovoi, tlii.si.-s saiidvl
.griculturul vahioextemlJ
:iver from tbe centre i;i|
on and slightly undulaJ
lioHt poHsiblo character. [
•soil ot' clay. Clum|juofl
livs east from tho
ss and continues al
point I
the!
)f the rivor bank \vcre|
)io c'laj-, beneath whiin
■< could bo observed tiuml
fertile and free iim\
ous, its breadth varied
)Vir inches. " The banb,
Jor consisting of po]iliir,|
i-ago 30 loot high."
■ough this section, iiiiti
e whole breadth «t thiV
poses as far north as
nr)rth-wost to Eed Deer |
uvtih or swamp wlii
lie north-oast,
id is good and extends |
id hills and ridges from
into tho next (see f^\). I
.contains many hiii.-.iI
is Banksian pine, liut |
II the other has a first-
lay loam with or witii-
I till it passes into wmJ
North of the sand ridges are large quantities of very fine timber, consist-
ing ot spruce, poplar and tamarac. J'assing still further north, the country
gradually becomes better until it assumes a swamjiy character in tho neighbor-
hoodof liittern Lake. In tho south-eastern part, north of the riveis aro many
pine prairies, interspersed with groves of aspen poplar. '
On tho western margin of tho centre of this section, Mr. O'lviefTo found a
small area under crop on the eastern side of Sturgeon Lake, hit 53° 30'
Wheat, potatoes and barley \v u-o under cultivation, the former and the latter
being (it for harvesting (22nd Aug.) and most promising."
Tho potatoes could not bo excelled for size or quality anywhere.
Marcus Smith Exploration, 1S79.
Mr. Marcus Smith, M.LC.E., travelled eastward from Fort Carlton to Fort
i IftCoriio through tho southern portion of this section.
" Immediately beyond this tho soil improves, and scattered homesteads
appear; at about 30 miles the trail crosses tho lied Doer Creek ; tho soil beyond
this increases in richness and the homesteads aro more numerous. Tho main
settlement is on a flat nearly opposite Sturgeon liiver. Farm homesteads at
intervals, extend down the barks of the north branch of the river to the Forks
and there is a settlement on tht south branch, principally halt-bieods. *
The soil is a rich, light loam, which produces crops "of wheat ave"ra<'ing 30
bushels to the acre. There aro occasional low, level flats on tho margiirot the
river; further inland the land raises fully 2C0 feet above tho level of the river-
it is rather lumpy and rough, broken with numerous ponds and lakelets fringed
■with aspen and willows.
These high lands cost more labor to get them under cultivation ; but J was
informed they produce better crops than tho low flats. On thouncuk.vated lands
tho natural croj.s of grass, wild peas and vetches wore so heavy that if we left
the trail wo found great difticulty in forcing our way through.
About 18 miles above tho Forks tho peninsula is crossed by another sand-
bclt about 4 miles wide, covered with jack pine. On the point there are two
homesteads on which there were good crops of wheat nearly ripo and good
kitchen gardens.
From tho Forks down to Fort a la Corno we found tho soil rather sandy in
some places near the river, but further back it is fully equal, if not suiicrior,
to Prince Albert. On the Roman Creek there several larm homesteads taken up!
See aJso Ajppendix, Pacific Railway Report. 1879.
I06 O'Kieffe Exploration, 1879.
Mr. O'Kioffo travelled through this section in every direction, and describes
it generally : —
" Tho southern parto' the section is almost all prairie with a fow alkaline
marshes in the western corner. Passing north on tho trail to Sandy Lake Mis-
sion the land constantly improves, and at the Mission the soil is very rich
indeed. On the trail from Carlton to Sturgeon Lake the land is also very good.
Tho valleys of Shell and Big rivers are very rich, and tho whole land
enclosed between those rivers pai take largely of tho same character. This tract
is mixed prairio and forest and is generally level. Sturgeon River, discharging
Stony Lake, runs southeasterly through tho northern half of the section. The
land throughout its whole course to the Indian Eoservo, on both sides of the
rivor, is lirst-class, though there are a few muske"a and swamps scattorcd
through it.
123— Hi
u
178
iff
' ii^
. i
No f.ncr country could be dcsiml than the fiection above described J
water i. ,,uro and abundant and the land extromoly rich. Pea vine ?;!. ?
grasses, and .n fact, all hc^baceouH piantn were luxuriant b. t tl ^^8^0^ ,
applies also to burnt diHtrict.. Yo.y fine fish are in all thi rivers and tT
Th? i' ,n'l "I ' f. ^^"'^^'^ '?""^' "-'^t.-emely abundant, large and of tine qSu
Pho tunber on th.s «ect.on .s not ho good as that either oast or west of it £
many giovcs of hue timber were observed Hcattered throu. h it
Jn the north-western part of it the land is very good ' ,u the timber is ml
of lar^^e size, being nearly ail second growth as the old timber hadTeei bu
down by hre some years ago. The whole section may be classed as level p
The land generally in the vicinity of Sandy Lake Mission is^a rich loam
ch^i^^l.fl.'^^nMn'H'; ' V-'-'^'^'^SO of gravel, which, indeed, is the p e -a
character of land lor many miles. * "^'nnuj
«vn/^ ^^^ Mission, saw a small (ield or two of the best spring wheat I hm
over seen, which would be fit to harvest in ten days (August 20th)."
Eberts Exploration, 1879.
T«l,5'';-'^''^'"*^'*'"''r^''"^J'°'''''-'^®^*«''^y from Fort Carlton towards Pelican
Lake, passea over the south-western portion of this section •-
],«.wi '""^ 53 to Shell Elver the country is principally prairie, lightly tim-
sZl nnV:."'"'. """' T" P'^P'^^' «^«««dingly%ichLd^/ertile,con^siHfnlof
sand and clay loams A great many hay meadows and small lakes are m
with, several of the latter being slightly alkaline.
At Sandy Lake the Indians, under the supervision of Mr. Hinds, Church of
England Missionary were cultivating successfully fine fields of graiA and ■ i
lZrSf^^^°"- 7^ "V' ^''S^^ ^}f ^'^''> '" the hills, the soifis prfnciia ly
sand with a mixture of grave and boulders. Wherever the timber was bS
oft the surface was covered with a thick growth of graes and vetches
Shell E.ver valley is about two miles wide. It joins the Sturgeon Eivor
which empties into the Saskatchewan. ocuigeon Kivtr,
a we?k. """ ^*^'' ^''^''^''' ''''''^ ^'" ^"^ "" '^''P^^ ""^ ^* '"'h'^'' h"* disappeared '
The snow-fall during the winter does not exceed two feet; horses winter I
out, and when taken up in the spring are in good order. Wintm set^ n ab
the 1st JSovember and remains steadily cold until April."
See also Appendix, Ptcific Railway Report, 1879.
53
107 O'Kieffe Report, 1879.
T o1.5m • 0.'K'5^„f.°te'-ed this section on his way north-westerly from Sandy i
Lake Mission to Stinking and Pelican Lakes. J" ^ '/
"The land from the Mission westward to Stinking Lake is gonerallv very
good, but somewhat broken by the creek valley, which forms the head of Shell
Elver, continuing along Stinking Lake at the north end, we crossed S
i^lT' F.^mT/'^r^i^? ^^^t^jde, and discharging the waters of the above
lake. From here to Pe ican Lake the land is generally good, wHh a soil
On this line there is a good belt of spruce and tamarac Continued our course
woofs of ffnfrli,. "°''^ ''^-^ ^I/^'V^**" Lake, through spruce and tamarac
woods of fine timber averaging 20 inches in diameter, and from 50 to 60 feet
J'S.'^i J,h'5 continued for two and a half miles, then poplar with birch, spruce
and tamarac prevailed. - r .
179
n above described. Th*
■ Hob. Pea vine, votoheJ
riant, but tliiw statomert
ill tbo rivoi-H and iakus o|
birgo and of fine quality,
r east or woat of it, l)^^
ii'ouiib it.
ood ' ,11 tbo timber in not
Id timber bad been burnt
^ bo classed as level plaij
)0 feet except in the vici-
5 Mission is'a rich loam,
ndeed, is the prevailing
St spring wheat I hiiva
Lugust 2r)th)."
IJarlton towards Pelieiin
tion : —
ally prairie, lightlj tim-
md fertile, consisting of
id small lakes are mot
of Mr. Hinds, Church of I
fields of grain and rais-
3, the soil is principally
r the timber wasburuti
is and vetches,
ins the Sturgeon River,
hes, but disappeared io
wo feet ; horses winter
Winter sets in about
h-wosterly from .Sandy
Lake is generally very
brms the head of Shell
I end, we crossed Big
be waters of the above |
ally good, with a soil
nerally clay or sail
Continued our course I
jh spruce and tamarao
and from 50 to 60 feet
3lar with birch, spruce I
A tine stream fJO feet wide, and four to five feet deep, flows out of (he lake,
and runs to tbo north-westward to lieaver River.
Extending eastward from Pelican Luke to nearly the oiistoi'n side of this
Hci-tion, a tract of very poor sandy land is found. To the north (»f Clear Lake, it
extends for six miles, and southward to an undotinod distance."
Eberts Exploration, 187!).
Mr. Eberts entered this section about latitude 5;j'' 25', ind travelled north-
westerly to the north of Whitetish and Pelican lakes to its iiorlh-west angle.
" The country between Shell and Big rivers is the "divide " between the
Saskatchewan and Beaver Rivers. "At the 58th mile IVom (Jarl Ion, crossed
Big River, the outlet ot Slink'ng Lake in this section. Ilising inimeilialely out
<if the valley to l.')() feet, the country to the <!7lh mile is very rough and hilly,
with niiinorous pot-bolen, ponds, lakes and Hwain|)s in all direiitions, the soil
becoming light in proceeding north. At the (i7th mile, luliliidn 511° -10', entered
a forest which is ]',i miles across. This is the soullioi'u limit ol'the true forest.
The timber is large, consisting of spruce, balsam, poplar, llanUsian pine, and a
few trees of yellow pine from 12 to iiO inches in diamulur, but at present is of
little use i'or economic |)ur))oses, as it lies too far north of the Saskatchewan
water-shed. Thi'ough the forest the soil improves, clay lioiiig mixed with the
«and.
From the 80th niile to the Pelican Lakes, the land a(»ain bo '.jmes worth-
less, — sand ridges, hills and muskegs. Some tine lakes were passed, atl'ording
a fair supply of iish.
On the shoros of Pelican and Whitetish lakes, which are Iho largest in
this section, tbo hidians in favored spots grow vegetables.
At the lOOth mile, on the 2Gth July, cro.ssoj Pelican Uiver, which flows to
the north into Green Lake, it was swollen, and rapiil from the recent heavy
rains. Honco to the north-west corner of this sociion, a dislaiico of about 20
miles, was tbo most ditHcult part of tho country soon, being one vast muskog,
with hero and there a sand island, or a ridge lying north and south thickly
covered with small spruce and po))lar. Tho soil is a fine wliitesilt, and worth-
less. Numerous sti-eams wore met with from 10 to 10 le"t in width, the
crossing of which was dangerous and difficult."
On bis return journey, Mr. Eberts travelled easterly through this section at
about latitude 51]° 23', passing soutli of Stinking Lake.
"Leaving Birch Lake, and approaching the Thickwood Hills, tho country
becomes hilly and uneven, soil poor, though strong enough to support luxuriant
grasses. On the south side of Stinking Lake is a largo nteadow which extends
for the whole length of the lake, and for some miles to the south.
After leaving this lake, crossed over a low ridge to tho head waters of
Shell River. Tho course was continued through the valley of tho river, which
continued to increase in width."
See also Appendix Pac. Ry. Rfp., 1879.
\^
Io8 Eberts Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Eberts entered this section about lat. 53° 3ti', travelling oftatorly, pass-
ing Turtle, Stony and Birch lakes, and describes the county as becoming more
level; soil changing to black and sandy loams. In the neighborhood of the
lakes the soil is very rich and of great depth. At Turtle Lake a small quantity
of barley was s'>wn last spring and harvo-ttod successful I j', vogetablo^ are also
raised aid, with tho quantities of whito fish to bo found in Iho lakos, tho Indians
are ir no fear of starvation.
See also Appeniix,\Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
V
180
51
^^9 J^l'erts' Expbraiion, lfi1<)
53
Soo also Appendix Pac. Ry. Hep., 1879.
< 10 See ApiKMulix Pac. l\y. Rep., 1819
5:
•iS
m See Appon-lix I'ao. %. Rop., 1879.
53
"3
Macoiin Exploration, 1879.
much of it covLd ^i^X:::^:;^^'::^^^:^: ''ss'ur' ^"^'^ '"^^
grass marshos wore nuinoious The ^mL^IIIu^' "' '"'''^''' P^n^'s- an<i
clay loam, and only in one spot «^ an admixt .fo^orr„' " '''"'^ ^'"'^ ^«'^"-^'<l
level and water Hr«t-cla88, bit t cohh tnt v^n l ?,l ""''"• ^''"'^ "early
Continuing a «ou>h.ea.t V.ou,4 and ^ciL- tt?' •r/^'^^u^^^^^^^^^ ^»«t^''j
bluttk to the left, the country pLed ove. Cf at nnn? ^ *'^'"^*« ""^ P^P'^'
there wan hardly a largo trie lof Dried Mn.T M ■7'' ''°"" '"'■"'^*' ^"^ "«w
etnndini. alone, i; not n,oro than ftoWl'h!r^ ^ ''•.? ''"""''°^' «'"'"«"t*
«ido but quite bare on the south iVetm-^nZreo, '::!''' ^""'^ "" ^'^« ""'"'
level plain with a gentle .lope towards KoBilJ^r "^ '" * ""'' ''•'''"^'^"'
See also ^p^jcncfix, Pac. Ry. Rep., I879.
^acown Exploration, 1879.
wond'or^uirtUHyfrt ^^H tla^n'^lT" '' t'T^^' «- --''T of
soil throughout is the usuaWrk oum ^fI.^^ ''''r ' '"'*?'' '^"'^ marshes. The
Bandy. Willow thickets ad o.Vrcon^Svood^ ''"'' oecasio.udly more
ously. The abundance of fresh watorwa^ ^IZliVT''^' "''"°-^' ^«"''"'-
was increasing was ovi.lent from the dradtl.Tf.f^-''^'^ ^''"^"'■"' ^"^ *hat tlm
the larger ponds. Even Bittern L ike wU'Shas dl H ^' r'T"^' *l^ "^'^''^'"^ ^^
was fresh, and the trees alontr the southern . 1 ? ^f '"''"'' ''^'^ ^^^'^ ''^ke,
this lake, iron-stone nodules NyrobTo"vod 1^ "t ' ""^.- °" *''« *"'"'<•" "^
the Hay Lakes was a black loa Hnd Jin,; tn ? '°''u"' '''° "oighborhood of
restin. on a elay subsoil mix d w h ^ " t'^Jifr' '^ T^'''' ^''"P' ''^
to farm here. Near the telegraph sat^o ho hfon''"'"' ^""^ commenced
two varieties, one of white, 7he othe Jnurrlo f^™.^" '''"'"'' ""^ P°'^t^>«« «f
to measure Uh inches in ci Vcumfo 'once ' A f tl' ?"^ '' '^""'P'° "^ '^^ ^«'""'-
wheat and oats, were very tine Mr McKornan hT' "';"''^''"^ "^ ''^'■'«^'
houso and obtained bad water Ho showoH ^'^ '""'' « ^^«" "ear his
indicated that he had sunk int; the cmaceir/r "T^'^''^ of seionite, which
Hhould «inkanotheroneclo elV InU on no L ^^ -It was sujr^esto 1 hat he
He did so, and obtained excellent wateT ''"""* '" «" ^'''^^" *" the clay.
Hue also Appt-wlix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
181
11 Sco Appontlix, Pac. liy. Hc])., 1879.
'i
15 Soo Appendix, Pac. Ry. Uop., 1879.
6 See Appendix, Par. Ry. Rep., 1879.
'I
'7 See Appendix, Pae. Ry. Rej)., 1879.
53
18
See Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
t'ROM TIIK lOOni TO llltTIt MEUiDIAN ANU BETWEEN TUK Oli.NU AND
.');{R1) I'AHAM.ELS OF LATITUDE.
fOO Dr. Sinith Exploration, I8\[l
Mr. H. B. Smitli, on his way from Lake Winnipogosis to Fort Polly, passed
south-west oily through the westorn portion of thi» section.
" On Gravel Point, a low, flat promontory at the head of Dawson Bay, on
the eastern side, a French settlor named Larondo has located himself and
family, lie reports the soil in his neighborhood whore it is dry as being
extremely fertile, but that a groat deal of swamp existed.
" The eastern shore of the bay is low and flat, and is densely timbered with
poplar and spruce. Wherever a landing was made, much marsh was obsei-ved
in the interior."
Shoal River, which discharges Swan Lake, is about 200 feet wide, very
shallow and full of boulders. Swan Lake is about 14 miles by 5, and extremely
shallow and full of islands. " Tho shores of both lake and river aro low and
marshy but well tinibored." The soil carried down by tho Swan River from
the higher lovels has been deposited at its entrance into the lake, and thus a
promontory of nearly 3 miles long has gradually boon formed. From the
Indian village to tho "Store," a distance of iS milos, along tho banks of Swan
River, is hard, dry land of a samiy nature, timiiored with small poplars and
Hpruee. Back from the river the country is very swampy, .
See also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 187t>.
51
101 Dr
Smith Fxploration, 1879.
Dr. Smith traversed the southern border of this section on his way from
the telegraph lino to tho second cro^>ing c^'Swan River.
it
oi tlio country nortli of
52
inclHv. in ,li..-n,.<.er. Thin was "o d~ ' T'T^' '"''"'" l'"l'""-. -'I t.>
WoHtward cftho .Jo 4i tl.o h oil Ik I'V,'''''''"" V 1^''"' "'^'"'••
wooded vviti, v.M-y (ino ti nim, ITl • T '*''*"'":""• '""' t''" country heavilr
portion o, tho laid w.h w /u ' V !.'? T\ ^'""^'•'',? ^ ^•"'•>' '-'M" 1'-
thoi.-sou.<.o..iK IV^rcupino Mountain '' '^ "'""" ""'"^^'"^ ^''i*'' ''^'^
"Around the MM.th.;a:: ondT. S ^ird^^^^ 'I..;o,.Kl.out its whole Ixti
.ou„p;aJi;.r;:^:!;^,?ii;^ Soilr^oiiif ° ^'^ ^""^' ^'-^^ >-- '^^
disLict. Lund of Hi r 2; ehainc 1 , l" ''T" "^V"^"^''" i themselves i,. t ,
Porcupine Mountain. ^'''*'''^'"' to the above is said to extend up to tl.
See also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., IH79.
102 Dr. Smith Explore Hon, 1879.
I
this Hect.on and Swan River is very fUh^ land "IT.T" "'° "-'"^'r'" ^^""^'''''^ «<
many places very \vot. "^ '"'"^ *'t'' «" excellent soil, butin
theoThen''"T?o HvernSje'^^^^^^^ '1 ,'7 "^""? ^'•"'» °"o summit to
and 40 feet wide by 4 in depth "''^ ''°'"^- ^^ '« ^«'T «orpontine,
by th^ormrr.^;^"A;^3'rViBi:„d:r'or'" "',/' "l'^^- -"^ •^^ ^^^^ ^--ibed
tered through it. but the pTevSi f^^r^ctS i/r^'"'" ""'* "".'""'^ "''^ «^'«
shaking bog. *^ '""g ''laiactoiiHtic is swamp and muskeg, and
the l^nt: tTinV 'tfrntl^a wiJrstSfi^JZ;"'' ""' ""T'T^' '" *^° ^'--ty 0,
Westward of TSTm-fh Pf!.- ^'"'f'' P 'P''"'. Hpruco and aiders. ^
Big Vailo/ ci^k many fmalTXoam "w^rl"" "^-'T'" '-'t of this sectiot>, a.
was very good. Gonorairheav [v ?^^h 1 ''^r*^' ^"' the land where dry
Soil principally light lo^rraL^^wtrfs Ttli^^E'r'- ^^ ^P™!
See also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep. I879. ^ '
'03 -Dr. 5»»YA Exploration, 1879.
and^mSu'i'J" •"'•' T^ ^'■°'" Swan River, onfored thi- a...:„„ ,u^,„ ,,.,,.
andc.oBsedUd..gona,iyo„hiswaytoFortalaOorne WecUoL!aol:^^^^^^^^^
L.;-^^i^j
188
From till) tiino liw ciiloriMl ilu sui-tiDii iin
til lio rouflioil (Ircon Lako nl)ont itM
Polly, pasbod across the
ceil
tro tho lurid is dcsoriluHl lis oxi'codiii^ly rich. Tlio i^'nmtor part had been
luti'ly Imriiod ovor, and wms iiow^rowinj^ up witli y<»uiij^ pujilur, u\/m\, craiiliorry
uiid rasplioiry but'ioM. Tlio fruit of tiio laltor was
fully
rip.', very largo
doliciouN. (iriiNS and poa vino wore
thick and tall, and iii tlio vieinity of ttu'
and
lakes the foriiicr spread oat into meadows of vani extent.
Nuinerou* oulerojis of limesloiio wore noticed in iho sl.roam bods, which
will doubtless be of niiicli value in llie fiiliiio. For tivo miles norlh-wosl of
Green Lake llio country is very billy and sandy, with many boulders in tho
hoil.
At the (•ro^siM;,' of lied Deer Uivor, Yellow (Quill's band have located thorn-
solves, mid hero for ouo milo east of the river the soil is excellent.
North-westward from tho crossing of Uod Door Uiver to llirch Knoll,
an isolated bill about 70 feet high, aid about six miles from tho river, the
count ly is level, but (I'.iite sandy. Many small tracts covered with Ijluebernofl
wore observed bore. Alter crossing Boaver River tho land improved, and much
tino land was soon o'xteiiding westward us tar as the eyo could reach.
Soo also Appendix, Pac, Ry. Hep., 1879.
ii
lOif Dr. Smith Expl>mtioti,m^.
Dr. Smith passed through the noith-western corner of this section north-
westerly, on his way from Swan Uivor to Fort a la Corno.
The whole distanco across this section shows excellent land, fit for all
agricultural purposes. Tho soil is a rich black loam of great depth, with a
clay sub-oil. It may bo considered partially open prairie, as the timber i«
scattored in clumps over its surface. Aspen poplar (i to 12 inches in diameter iy
frequent. Small lakes are numerous, and a few alkaline ponds were seen. The
level of tho country is generally uniform, though in some places broken by
long coulees.
104 Marcus Smith Exploration, 1879.
Mr. M. Smith passed through tho southern pari of this section, proceed-
ing easterly from Humboldt to Fort Pelly.
'• Between Humboldt and tho Quill Lakes the country is variable in some^
places, low and swampy where there is much willow brush, but eastward of
this point whore tho trail crosses tho telegraph lino there arc several miles of a
beautiful park-like country, tho trail wandering in open glades through groves
of iispon. Eefoio renching Big Quill Lako we came upon an open alkaline plain
extending northward to tho telegraph line; this continuoH eastward nearly to
Fishing Lake, and probably also to some coasidorablc di&tauco north of these
lakes."
See also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Report, 1879.
'^5 Marcus Smith Exploration, lfe79.
Mr. Smith travelled southerly' through this section on his way from Fort a
la Corno to Humboldt.
" August Ifith. — Wo travelled southward from Fort a la Corno to Root Eiver
and up the banks of the latt i' to its outlet from Water Hon Lako. Here we
found several fields of wheat with very heavy crops nearly ripe, and two farm
IN
I " • ■
52
14 fiirmM Holo<„.|. «„ | nX ■''«'''''""'' "'" ""•'' ^'"'^ ^"""■'<"- "'"■•0 w '.
and ,eacl.o,l the Humn.it . : 41 'wufu'lh-ffl 'lT""'f '"" f^"''" •-«'"" '""<e,
l«ko, in which tlm ri.o i. lo.s t . Ko fo ' Tl^ l'"' "'":."^, '" '"""^ '™"' '»'
uniform, the noil of .1,., ri,.|,.wf „i' ■ ^''" '^'"•'"'•« '»' Uio mnmnd ii v., .
willow ti'll near the , mmit VnK, 'X'" ^l'.''^."^'"'-" ' ••l""M- ■>'' l.'.plur ur
forest of i)opl.,r. ^ "'^^°' '^'"'''> '« '«"*'■'>• "H c.voi'o.l with i
hadh^oi'b;;:;;'l;:;;r;i;;\:r.s^^^^^
way throu^^h fortho carls '' '"' ''"^"'*>' «"ffl«iont f„reo to cut ,
milcH each an.l throe to four milon b „d V7 Uo? rlt t' 1'"'"' '•^'"'^'"»""" 1"
arm atui the outlet, I{o„i Rivor is at tZ ,.n.,i '. • • ^ ''"''" "' "" ^''° ""''th
tollowcl up tl.o st,-oam w I, h fl, w ; \^ ' 'I '" "^'"" -'^ '^'"^ wi.lo. W«
tho ran.roand tlow^t ,.7 . 1 ' th" north arm, it rims to tho Mouth
throu.^li'tho p":" vt i'; te'thrjd:'"''^ ofMimtehinass Hill. Thois e
and i,.donto,l' with lakoletr"^ ^ "''°' "'"^ ''''*'""" '•«"«''. <="^"'"'l with brush
cont.nue« so westward to the bemi c>f tt LTJL'satt^tchi^af'''''''''^' '"""'''
Soo also Appendix, Par. Ry, r^^,^ ih79.
106 O'Kieffe Exploration, 1879.
land w« not .., ,,„„,, ,,„, i„,p„,v'o;r„t;c;; „""!;'''• ""'"■ """ """ "'
Mari'm Smilh Eiplor.ilmi, 1879.
-L,:i^:^- KS £,£ ~- f'F- rJ-s;rxr ;;
packed. ''"""^"•'' *«™'"g "lounda an<' ion;., io.v lyes, cIoho.^
Between tho Fen v and Fort Pn,.w^„ *u
.inco I p„„od i„ l«77,Vnd quit^a v?na° ' ^flH T"'?' "l""""''''' »«'"
gon«-.: )j o fivrht loam.
■•'': pi.ie and . ,,, nrinces /S R • "' ^"u""" '"''"'^ ^'''°' ««vorod
uoverci^icd this boll." l'""''®^^ P'^^. It is said the grasshoppora have
See also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Hep., 1879.
a
)iin,lii,lopi|, of Hix I'ortt
m (o tlio Ih.'iom of tli«
llii^ siiiiiiiiur llioro wi'r»
,' ill tioxt Hprini;.
n,i;-(oi-Li(tlu(iiiil| J,,i|jp
about IlhnilosfVoni the
■ooC llin ^n-oiiii,! ii vuiv
" 'loplli, it in o(iiial to
I cluinpioC |).)|,|ar and
•ly ull covorod with a
^im[)orwhi«rotho wood*
iffieiont foico to cut i
Pamiuiii ran/ifo till >■, ■
th(Mii-mMl)uiri;,'uiK)UHi)
Liiko is on iho north
'lit 20 foot wido. W«
it risoH to tho south (it
irmssllill. Thouscom
lyh, covoiod withbniNh
Uatioii JH lumpy and
i in ^onoraliy poor and
ewaD.
rn j)art on his wiiy
liccrt, with occasional
Near tlio rivor tho
I from near tho Moose
bort.
to the Carlton cr t
iiick from tho rivm it
!?, i0>V i .'JgCS, ClOHu.^
ral squnttors, sottlod
Jlustorod around the
Phis firm has under
fino field of wheat
tho trail to Prince
uit, .slifjhtly rolling'
Soil, variiiblo, but
miloa wido, covorod
grasshoppora have
18ft
51
07 Mwoun J'J.rp'oration, 187fl.
Mr. Muooim eittort-d tliin xcction about longii ido 107'" 40', travelling north-
we<loily towards HntlUdbid.
" Ttlllio iiortli of Uo:ir liillH passod a largo lake about five niiien long, boliovod
to bo Fiilini . TIkimo, for tliroo miles, over a boggy plain, in which wore found
many Hi))'ings ol good water, and a smiill stream flowing oustw.ml into the lari; -<
liiko. Alter imssing this plain, anoliier range of hills, in the contro of whi^h
lOKod a III! ','0 Halt lake. Nearly all tho land is good, but altogether without
«rood In all the valleys tho grass was of sutHciont length for mowing, and
oxucMont fresh water was found everywhere. Passing through Iboso hills,
ennio into a very broken country, with inimy rounded eminences covorod with
iKiulders, and deep depressions tilled with puro water. The soil changed
f'reciuently, and at times was sandy with a gravel subsoil, but the grass was
always good. Alter piissing tho lOlh Base Lino tho soil boc:imo vovy poor for
a mile or two, but this soon changed, and tho country, though broker' and
containing many boulders, was very rich. As a stock-raising region, the land
seen yesterday and to-day, 27th July, could not bo oxeellod, as it coi.taiiiH
excellent water, a diver>ity of soil and good shelter in tho valleys. Owii j; to
tho variab'o soil, its flora was correspondingly divorsitiod. Tho grasses ol tho
forest woro on the hills, while those of tho prairie were in the valleys. \V >od
was seen to the right of the course, about three miles otf."
Sco also Appendix, Pac. By. Rep., 187P.
E
108 Macoun Exploration, 18', 9.
Macoun entered this section abiut lat. 52° 18', travelling north-wostorly
towards Batt!otbi"d.
"The couniry is very much broken with ridges, lakes and ponds, with
boulders, as usual, on the hill tops. Soil of tho valleys and slopes very rich
and gra>s generally good. Many foi'ost flowers were seen on the prairie.
Thonco entering the woods which had been pieviously soon to tho right, passed
tor manv mile^ ilirongh groves of poplar and along tho margin of numerous
lakelots and hwaiii|is with glades covered with tho finest pasturage. Tho forest
land is first-class but much broken and wot. Proceeding, a small percentage of
sand entered into tho soil and this increased so much in a few miles that fjio
soil changed to a light sandy loam, with considerably less wood. A few miles
further to tho norih, through a dry, hilly couniry, and the northern edge of the
f i:^le Hills was reached, overlooking a svide valley and plain. On the vorgo of
the horizon, three or four white houses could be seen, this was Biilfleford.
Approuching Buttlcford, tho land became more and more sandy, until
within half a mile of the(rovernor's house, woie sand dunes, covered, however,
with grass and trailing juniper, and the hollows filled wilh small poplars and
bru>h wood ; to tl;o south of tho hills lay tho usual accompaniment of salt
ponds. Descending 200 feet, to tho level of Battleford, wo passed through the
stniggiing street end camried at its further end near tho telegraph .station.
Biillieford, ;jOth July.— Tlio police farm, situated on tho point of land
between Battle Hiver and tho Saskatchewan, is a sandy alluvium and appears
to 1)0 very di} and barren, but it certainly has produced good crops this year.
Three months ago it was barren prairie, now oats, barley potatoes and turnips
are growing luxuriantlj". In the garden, also broken up this spring, are cab-
bages, cauliflowers and other vegetables of the finest description. Timothy and
clover had lieen sown to form a grass plot, and these wore now in llowor and
gave promise of producing abundance of seed. The Governor's farm, situated
If6
5S£S~:Sii lis I- sS
K-n. „..uly ,ivo ftot hi^h, and with co^^e. lorn i gl - i ^ S ^^IJ V" '^^
i'"l""'t«a to then, in tl.is ro" on t h-^t n^ n '^ ! '^ ''^ 'C'l^^'l^-ablo vital ty
I"-""'-' i- tl;o west, l,ut .ho poculial- dima Wl en i^nr'^rl!!':" ''"'l"
oft..,inoor.vooc,s';;;[.i,^;^.;K't.:'^;f^^^^
able, wS a E^ZxtS 'of "'";'"^*^ '""'^^ "'^'"- ^''"•^-^' t''--' was van-
wcs.oi',, ho ^/'m Th, S' • • '^ ^^^ V"','^ '^'^"''^ «o«" showed all alon.' the
apart, l.ut I s ^lova ^rwer 'TLwtT '' ^'''' """^' ""'"-'^ ^ '"''^
three. niiloH wide wi a vo>.n;, i r 'l^'P''.P««>on was a chiy plain about
alth..u-hthon-H.H w^/J^I-^T^^ "'"■^"'■'' ^''"'^' ""■'-■'^ «''"«'<«^ '-^"^ dry,
Tho i,i.,i„ m^f 1" 1 '? ^ .^^"""^ Houthward a.s a series of roljinir hUls
«ll m' ; "i; :' ,o "r^-;; ?"f/ ■"''- '- ^''o north without a busiraSd ,
a niilo wil ' w . I « ^^'^ <lay only crossed one salt plain a quarter of
ci"i;i:tin^;;^;s>eS •• '^''^"'^"^' '"^ ^'^"^ •"'^'^'*^-- -« ^'-^ ^ 5''^-
lat. fi^: 5Jr;;:;^£.';';:S!:,S?^ ^^ ^^"-^^^d. -^orod this section about
weres 'e abrnts^K m lo^?n H '""'J,'"^ ^T'''. *° t^o south. Bluffs of wood
visited. Iloro tlu' vj'
iwai-d iruiiciiLivo of dn.
for ciiitiviition by moV
ling biirloy, .sliDit in j,,.
I- wtiuuliiiir thii'lf on the
r long oaiH, nearly -i-ine
e IS a reiuai'kablo vifuliiy
ngor. r am more mii
)t' tlio astonisliini,' crohs
<lii,'i,nn,i,' up ti,o' pminc
tlio I'oots of ilio gr;i-^
he soil. Owiri!^ to the
i?, tho yoiiiiy roots n.e
the belief of an oasteit.
frost right inio the .>,ub-
0111 four or iive inches- of
1 Tlill*, travelling south-
rd, at the sovetith mili;,
08 more, camped outside
arting, the soil was vaii-
I, when it improved to
ght miles, utitil a deep
, a chain of unconnected
usual, saline. Furtliei'
■ampingLalvc, saidtobe
agle Ci'eek. Two miles
;h. Three tests of the
lack loam with a light
boulders on tho knolls
llago. Water is good
grass is Vilfacuspidata.
orealo is liero also, a
3or and wider than the
not good, but it soon
little mo)'e sand in the
showed all along the
it waves, nearly a mile
was a clay plain about
iich cracked and dry,
water course, the hil'lii
Boiics of rolling hills,
without a bush'andis
alt plain a quarter of
iiona are that a drier
erod this section about
ly loam soil, and not a
)uth. Bluffs of wood
f Battle River, and at
0th mile crossed the
10 wood except a few
cind of country, koep-
tho river, came u])on
•i m
m
ridges running north and south of light sandy loam, and struck tho Sounding-
Lake trail in lat. 52°, 40', 51". For the last 2(( miles, boulders have been com-
mon, and tho aj)pioaches to all creeks and coulees slony, which indicates that
the subsoil is drift, and tiiat water will be abuiulanl and sweet, although
there is none on the surface at this season, lltli October. Thence, travelling
along the trail easterly tor an hour, reached tho margin of the Kagle Hills, and
wound fur some miles througli ;i broken country, at last I'eacbel llittleford."
Mr. Wilkins, F.L.S., .Mr. Macoun's assistant, returningf roin the west towards
Battlefoid, entered this section about lat. S^*-', 18', journeying northeasterly.
The country passed over to the Eagle llills was a level or rolling prairie with
no wood, grjiss and water abundant; passed a large boulder 12 loot high by 20
feet in length. For tho first 2.") miles tho soil was a rich clay loam, and subsoil
a lightish clay containing quantities of lime. A])proaching thoj Eagle Hills,
the soil changed to a sandy loam, the pioportior. of sand increasing as the hills
were reached. Ho then descended into the plain, and crossing its belt of
sand hills, arrived at Batlleford 12th September, 187(1.
Mr. Wilkins subsequently proceeded tJO miles south from Battleford, ex-
amined tho country, and fixed tho position of Tramping Lake. He found th©
soil to the south of the Eagle Hills an excelUnt clay loam.
See also Appendix, Pac. Br. Rep., 1879.
E
\^ Macoun Exploration, 187f.
Mr. Macoun entered this section on latitude 52° 41', travelling eastward.
" Crossing three successive ranges of hills through long grass and came ui)on
a plateau, travelling over which reached tho head of Manito Lake, and crossing
at the west end of the lake a valley containing several ponds of alkaline water
entered upon a rich level plain. Manito Lake lies in a great depression, about
300 foot below tho prairie level, extending for many miles to the south-east and
was extremely saline at the time (October). Heavy woods bounded it on all
sides, except the north, where tho banks are perpendicular and tho country
beyond all prairie and poplar copse. Travelling for seven miles eastward over
the plain, it was found to be almost a dead level covered with long giass and
clumps of jioplar and willow. This was tho first land .seen that showed an
cxcessiv c rain-fall during this oxpodilion. Thence passed for 8 miles through a
country too broken for agriculture, consisting of small rounded hills or narrow
ridges, with all the hollows filled with water. Many green trees on the mar-
gins of the ponds stood in water, indicating that tho rain-fiill of this year was
much heavier than usual. Thence for six miles over a rather broken country,
when it became more level and drier. Near tho lOtHh mile crossed a large valloy
containintr a lake, the slope of country hero being to the south.
Mr. Wilkins entered this section about Latitude SS'' 12", journeying east-
ward.
Crossing a largo stream 30 feet wide and nearly three foot deep, in a val oy
which was strongly alkaline, and on both sides of' which were sand hills o.x-
tending for two miles. The next 25 miles passed over a country of either
rolling prairio or rolling hills. Soil, a strong black clay loam, with hero and
there boulders on the hills; no woods. Thence turning a little to the north-
cast left the hills and continued over rolling prairie, the soil was an excellent
clay loam, with country well suited for farming. Abundance of wood was
found in a valley towards east side of this section.
Mr. Macoun, on his journey from Battleford towards the Hand Hills, entered
this section about latitude 52° 10', tr:ivelling south-westerly, passed over an
ascending rolling country for 10 miles without water, the soil being a strong
clay considerably baked, and the herbage stunted.
'•1 tl
188
" Absonco of watoi- was ovviriL' to tlio fhiiraetor of tl, . . > i
has taught us that water could novo.- be oxp-cod whore .1.1 , ! ' ''' ^''^"■^'^>'
Thcuco leaving the oiay entered upon a « o mid^I n 'c n h '"^;i"">'"^"«l
asc.ut to the west, where was abu..danco of wat^. alfi ■^' '^ " "'''''"
with the exception of two narrow alSine valioTe ' "'"''*"' "°^'"^^'" '"
Soo al.so Appendix, Pac. By. Pep., 1879,
•110 Macoun Exploration, 1879,
Mr. Macouii entered this section Jntitndo noo on« * ■,. , I
to Sounding Lake near the NeutraTHil?« ' ^''^"^'''"g "O^t^-e isteril
e.peciall,totheeLtofNo":JS^\.£>,:;^ r^t^— 1^™^^
trc 01 the poor Htretch, and is about 12 feet wide and two feet 10^ Pr- i' '"
on, met with occasional tracts of very good soil and in rhr^nt . t ' ™«^'J'"J
<.ut of the woods, and entered on a ^^^dTp,a S'w"u,out a I nsl !vh •?''"' '•"^^'
for ten miles, when the line of woods of ll e i^e^.h';! imi ' '^^f«'\CO»t>niH
latter j.ortion the soil improved b sand Htt'"""f T"''''^^ '''"4
i.s tit for tillage. Mr. Maco , dit mcred fh-.f f P'f ?'"""' '^'' >'"' "^''^' '' '^^
this region tLgo^.d iandZ;th;^'::!tho;;f ^s :^!:z ^!^t:^n
;:?g?.S"'S:ii;i;;;,;:^relS!i;^^,^;s^S
E=-\[-;;;iL^re&sr'i;^
Ambush Creek, tlowin.' into Man i to T K . P-'''^'""g 'i creek supposed to be
£,r- -'-'' ^-- - w ^ii^.nr:hrab,;;d:l^:'i;;sr
ance^;::^2g:L;^r::;5^^^rj£^i^;K^^^ -^u. with ah...
oast and west. The country'improve< , d L S.^; , \ ?£! Il^^ '"T"'"^' '
wiwof lair quality, with soil generally of sandv^Kv '\ r \tT ^'''''''^^ °\"'
high ridge in which we.-o four coulees^ wLicCunit 1 „ ah ut f n?h",o T'"'"' "
seemed to lorm a c..ek flowing to the north.;es; proJ.;S;'^'£v^^^ fciS '
;:^^rberTu;;irsr'^?'j-vr^^
mer. The exact Latitude wa. found to be 52^ 47' M'' " ^''"'^ '"'"■
Mr. W.lkins entered this section south of the '• Nose " in about 'i-^^ 0' .,,,1
pnnc. pally clay or clay loam. Along the north shore of th« 1-, ! 1 ^ ?
.. .andy, extending ab^ut six miles tf the ei wZlli' . f^iJ^d.'J^J'r^
.«metwuh. The wood ceases as soon as th. sand iVfefl Suth of iL'[S:
189
of travel ii sor'uM of hills wcio soon, which woro doubtlobs a coiiliuuation of those
crojhcd over bcdoro reaching Sounding Lako.
Seo alKO Appendix, Pac. By. Sep., 1879.
)', travelling south-e is(ei,v|
ntained a hirgo perc mt
she.sand htkcH wore pa.v
|nl Macoun E.rplorotion, 1879.
Mr. Macoun entered this Kcction aliont latitude 52^ 5tr, proccclin" in a
south-easterly direction toward the Neutral HilJH.
The M)il is a black claj' loam. A continuous poplar forest stretches along
the northern horizon, but wood is scarce on the route travelled. Hitherto
the dry beds of creeks scorned to indicate the flow of water to bo to tlie south,
but now the signs of the discharge of water to the north-oast became apparent!
At aliout the tenth mile after entering this section, a lai'ge lake was seen in the
distance to the north. The land is of tii'st-class quality, but owing to the level
character of the country, water is scarce. Continuing on, cros.sed the Victoria
trail, and then at about midway across the .section, struck a small brook in a
deep valley dischai'ging its waters to the north This was the first I'unning
water seen since leavii.g Hay Lakes, a distance of over b'O miles. The country
continued tho same until a high hill (Observation IHll of Palliser), Latitude
52° 3G' 20", was reached. Ilenco to Battle River it is very much broken with
hills, swamps and lakes, tho latter being all fresh, except one clo.se to the river.
Several fine blutfs of wood wore soon during tho last few miles. Battle Kiver
at the i)oint ciosscd, flows through a valley about three miles wide and 300 feel
deep, within which wasquite a large lake, together with others of sniallersize.
The river meanders through a somewhat narrow sub-valley, between alluvial
banks about ten feet high, and which are ovidenllj- overflowed in the spring.
Tho river here is -tO yards wide and less than two foot deej), with a gentle
current. There was some good timber still in the valley, princi])ally balsam
poplar. It may be stated generally that all the country soon between Hay
Lakes and Buttle Eivor is fit for agriculture. Continui"ng the course, and as-
cending out of tho vallej', several fine blufts of ])oplar wore passed, and tho land
showed a decided tendency to become sandy, but fully one-half being, at present,
covered .vith forest, it bears a rich growth of grass and herbaceous plants of
various species. About four miles east of Battle JJiver, and for a distance of
throe to lour miles, tho country became more picturesque, beiug studded with
poplar copso wood, bare rounded hills, grassy slopes and small lakoleis of pure
water, in and around which sported numerous flocks ofducks aud geese, giving
animation to this beautiful panorama. This land, though light sandy loan?,
was fairly good. A valley of blown sand, with a skirting ot poplar woods, was
then entered, and tho land became poor and sandy.
Mr. Wilkins entered this section about Latitiido 52" 18, travelling easterly
towards tho Neutral Hills. I^r about 15 miles strong clay, intermixed at times
with consideiable quantities of gravel, was the prevailing soil, grass and water
abundant and good.
In conlees leading into IJeaver Dam Creek asoam of coal nearlv 4 foot thick
was found. Latitude h'l" 15' 42', resting on the usual saudstono.'ana overlaid
with tho drift, as Mr. Macoun tound tho coal south ul J{ed Deer Kiver. Tho
valley of Beaver Dam Creek is al)0ut (100 foot broad and 125 feel doeji, 'contain
ing a large quantity of spruce and poplar.
To tho cast of this creek crossed a iiigh ridge, running duo north and
south, iiresenting many outcrops of sandstone aud lignite. Houce to Iho "Noso,"
a distance of about 24 miles, tho country, which was very much cut up with
coulees running north and south, was poor and gravelly, with alkaline swamps,
inferior partuic, and no water. The "Nose" Hill, about moridiun lli"-, wa,.
found to bo about 350 foot high, quite stoop, and covered with abundance of
190
,11
poplar. I- mm its top tlu- Ilan,! Uills ^vo.•o visil.Io (<, tho s„ull.-wosl T,, ,i
noril. nmi ca.t tl.o c.untry w;h l.n.kon. I.nt murl, of it xv;.m .•.n-cio,l will, I i
Kxcollont water was i\,uw\ i„ all tluMTcdcH. I. iiiti. lo ofho " V.^o ' ^'° »o -;*!'
8cc al.so Appendix, J'cu;. Ry. Jtep., 18^9. - • i^, -i- UJ a.
112 Macoun Exploration, 1871*.
Air. Ma...u<. in his journoy to Hny Lakes, vinito.! Abralirm Sohvyn ,
fornuM' <'apiam of Ilall-Hmvl liuntorH, who has sottlod on the hanlvs of iVi'ti
l{ivor, in the north-wost corner of tius section. Sclwyn had a tow licMs „n ill
cultivation on the prairie, 200 foot above the river. The whole coMiitrv •it
Crossin- IS wel situate.! tor Kettlemenl, being less encuml)eio.l with vv.,.)d' \]1
a few miles back Irom the river. '"
fV. M ''V'^'i n"n '""T'' ""': ^«'li'-'n pi7)ceo.lin« in south-easterly direction to
the Neutral Hills, and passed fhi'ough tho north-((astorn corner " Diirin.r ,i
greater part ot tho day we could see tho wooded hills beyond iJattle Hiver ,'"
they laded away towards evening. Wator is very scarce now, but in' n'
spring it IS quite abundant, as there aro a considerable number of hiy m ,,. i
scattered over tho country. Scarcely any growing wood passe 1 to-dav ail
the clumps being killed by tire w.thiu a year or two; no sandy soil seen to'.l'i ■
and very low stones. •-" x-m,
For eight miles after starting wo travollod over a level plain haviiiir nVh
soil, but almost wholly without wood at present owing (o coiislint fims
Wo now passed onto more elevated ground, and tor tivo miles our course loJ
over a lovely plain studdod with popular copse and willow thicket • no'irh • i
this wood was alivo, though quite small. A descent of nearly loo'foot'bron,,
us into a valley whore there was a large grove of biilsam poplar. Jjovoml Tl
valley tho soil changed and became a lightsandy loam, which very soon chai,.' '
into the usual black clay loam. A continuous poplar forest keens alon^/n
northern horizon, but wood is scarce where we are travelling " "
Mr. Wilkins entered thissection about its centre on his way from the Tr,ni
Hills to Tail Creok, proceeding north-wosterly. ^ tho Hani
" The torost lino was entered aboivt Lat. 52°, and from thence uii to T'lil
Creok, over one-third ot tho land was covered with wood. Number^, of th
trees were over a foot in diameter, and everything indicated a ti ,o countrv
The soil generally wasa rich black loam with aclay or sanly subsoil surl'icoNnii
ranging Irom loto 24 inches in depth, and found everywhero around TmiI rw
and FJull Luke. Birch, Elm, Maple {Ne.gundo aceroides), Cottonwood (PonT
mondefera), J3alm of (iiload {Populus balmmifera) and spruce of rierv ht
size and in considerable quantity wore found in the valley of Ked Beer Rivm.
which here ran in a valley 225 foot in depth and about half a mile wide 1'
number oi scams of very fair lignite were seen and specimens procured '
iurnuig eastward at Tail Creek Mr. Wilkins passed through tho eentro of
the southern half of this section on bis way to "The Nose." -^omuo oi
.... Turning eastward he found tho same black loam extending fo tho vicinifv
of Sullivan s Lake, a fine shoot of wator about 20 miles Ion " " East of th a
strong clay was the prevailing soil, water and grass were abundant and cmo,!
mterinixod with tho clay there was at times considerable gravel, which mad., if
more friable and easier worked. 'v-u maut it
See also Appendix Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
51
J 13 Macoun Exploration, \9,Vi.
Mr. Macoun entered f hi. .oction at its soiUh-wcst coruei and travelled
north-westerly to its north-east angle. na\eika
'j4 >•
101
tlic s(,ii(|,.wesl. Toiliel
f wns covoi'oil with \vo.),|
if'-hu "N().so,"5.i°0!r5:'''
0(i Abralir.in Solvvyn, a
oil tli(( Itanlvs of jj.it'd^,
ri liad ii fow iic|,|,s im^lp,.
'ho whole c'oiiiidy tn tin-
imlxiiod with wuini tlnn
ilh-(;a,stcrly direction to
ti (U)riici-. " During (1,^
)cyond lialtlo iiivcr, bu;
cai'oo now, hut in tliD
niiinherof ii:iy marshcM
ivootl pa>)!io 1 to-day, all
!) Mtindy soil mooii today,
)vel plain having rich
to constant fires.
five miles our course loil
r>w thicket; nearly al|
nearly 100 feet brought
rn poplar, iioyondllio
iiich very soon'chani,'('.|
arost keoj)s alon;^ our
3lling."
hi.s vvay from the Ilanl
Vom thence up to Tail
ood. Numherft of the
ieatod ii ti 10 country,
n.ly subsoil, HurfacoNoil
iiero around Tail Ci'eek
Cottonwood (Popidus
jruco of a very lar<re
<y of Bed Deer Kivt^'
lalf a mile wide. A
mens procured.
through the eontro of
inding to tho vicinity
long. East of this a
abundant and good,
gravel, which mado it
*' Tho hills piiBsed ty-day were sloepei' than those scon yesteirday, and con-
tained more sand, but the land was generally suited for tlie ydough. Passed
the Antler Hills on our right, and shortly after sighted tho lied Deer River on
our left, kee))ing along it for six miles to tho ci'ossing. Tho soil was good, and
tho land tit for agriculture; the left bank of tho river was clothed as far as we
could SCO with jioplar. From tho river to Antlor Hills was a level plain. This
river at tho crossing is nearly 20 yards wide and about two feel deep, with
clear watei'ovor a pebbly bed. On the north side of the river, enlcrc^d a thick
forest of young poplar, <, which alternated with thicskots of willow up to tho
Blindman's River. The soil was good, but became lighter and more sandy as
we neai'od tho latter stream in latitude 52° 22' 58".
Blindmnn's Iliver is about^O yards wide and tj in(;hos deep. Aftorcrossing
the river the soil became more sandy and some gravel was seen, tho first since
leaving Dead man's River at Morleyville.
For nearly 5 miles the trail wound over hills and slope's of saiidy lorm, and
then out upon a jilain of great width, extending to bills bounding Ued Door
Rivei'. Tho ])lain of Wolf Creek was covered with long rich grass and occa-
sional clum])s of tall willows. A fow alkaline marshes and swamps wore passed,
but tho greater part was suited for settlomont.
As we ajipi'oached Wolf Crook, tho soil became drier and more sandy,
and tho country was covered with willow. Crossing this, passed a few swamps
containing a spiinkling of spruce and tamarac, and then 5 miles over a fertile
prairio to Battle Kivor, which, at this crossing, is about as wide as Blindman's
Rivor, but contains more water. Its banks are only 10 feet high, and wooded
to the water's edge. All herbaceous plants wore wondorfnlly luxuriant, and
all of forest species."
Alter ])as.-ing Battle River tho trail wound through low hills, sometimes
forming ridges and enclosing numbers of small lakos of good water, and is
described as " a I'ich farming country, none of it being unsuited for tillage
except a little among the lakos, the soil being sandy loam." No hills of any
size were seen except Boar's Hill, which is meiely a low wooded eminence that
breaks the monotony of the plain.
Seo also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
See Appendix Pacific Railway Report, lS*Jd,
Si
114
5i
•15 See Appendix Pacific Railway Report, 1879.
ii
116 See Appendix Pacific Railway Report, 187!^.
ii
117
See Appendix Pacific Railway Report, 1879.
cornei and travelled
5i
118
See Appendix Pacific Railway Report, 1879.
123—13
\ IJ
192
V\i
51
PARALLELS OK LATITUDE
100 Marcus Smith Exploration, 1S73.
in wi.l.h, with tine ; iTik^'S^to/C'T^^^^^^^^
wooded, but limt, of Duck Mount.Wn ;. '°P° °^ ^''° '''"«'• *« h«avily
lOI I^r. Smith Exploration, 1819.
i^^r^^^'noltVZXt^^^^^ "". a no,,h,ine to Livin.Htono, and
roots and ve.etaMt': rSPin he f^iX ''r " "•^''^' '^'^^ ^^"^'^ ^^P^ "^
diato vicMt)ii\- of the Fort hnfV...,; ^J!- i T^^^^r is scarce in the immo.
in the Ou,.k' MouSi^^.lh^;^'^? J/^"'''^ '""^"•''^'' ^^^ P"'-P«««« ^^n be obtaiS
^^re^:':ui:\^i:::;\^;:^^i:^^ f ^Ornne., the count.y is thickly
Btrearn 25 fct wide and two^dtor • fn^^l n f '"^.f,t«"°- The Snake Creek, a
wide ar,d deep. Jn this vlll^x. iV '' '^J'*"' "^'^^ ^''® t'''"^*' i '^8 valley is very
five to .six toi each. ^ ^"^ "'"'^ ^"° ^^^^^^^ «f ^'^7 containing ftom
which '^'l^JaMt^liSio^'^^toSiS:'" r'^r^^^l "" ^'-"^«^ P'ateau,
till.'..Are hut is adn.irable ru?e land On botrV''/^«^* '■""t,"^* ^« "'^'^d fo
ve'y lair quali^-, though St with o-Vn" 1? '' ^'^^^ ^^ Swan Eivor is land of
natu.e of J rairic/thou.^h timbo'i-^" h,-^^^^^^^ '"'''"''• ^* '« generally of the
ia.-. Man} swa.nps it ^atS, ^o^TeeTS SSKfers'!^ ^^^'^" ^^^
Jfarcws *S»»7A Exploratim, 1879.
way
Si
1 02
! 1
" No, th of -^,':^ R "'' "". ■ "^y ^'•«'" ^"'•^ Ellice .-
Duck Mo mta'n i a beau?!'f„Mncr''!f^'?-^ ^'■'''" *''« Assiniboine to the base of
my rich, es;ec'ia ly neaf £ C^;!^^^^^^^^^ and the soiHs
grass, wild peas and vetchS/' ^^^ ' '"'^"''^ '"*' '"^ ^'^^-^ ^^^^^y crops of
See also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
Marcus Smith Exploration, 1879.
Quill'^Liker'^"' ^""''^ "^^^^'^ "^« ««"tb«rn part of this section on hie way from
the .-influence of the twr.ivfrs tho ?n. n • ^^ 'o "^ ^"'^'^" ««''«'-^'«- At
100 i:.ct wide, and the b:n'k.sZ!ft 20 Iccrh'h.'' '"* '"'' ^^" '^<ter about
See also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep.. IR179.
THE 5l8T AND 62nd
rail ; Us valley is very
hay containing from
of this section on his
tion on his way from
193
13 Marcus Smith Exploration, 1870.
Mr. Marcus Smith, proceoclinfj soulh-enstorl}-, ontoml this Hocti.iri at its
north-westoiTi corner on jiis way to Fort Polly.
" There is a hroad belt of fine coiiiitiy dotted witli i,'i'uv<is uikI cliuniis of
jioplar, '/w'uvj; the country a parU-like appeuraneo, Htrolcjiin;,' fruin llio (^uVVp-
peiloLulces northward by the eastern slope of the Toiieliwoud IIHIh and Iho
Fishint; Lake to the head waters ot' Ked Uoer Itiver. TIk! soil is irenerallv a
light loam." ^ -^
Soe also Appendix, Pac. Jiy. Rep., 18t!'.
4 Mitcoun Exploration, 1879.
Entering this section near its southeast corner and |)assing to the north of
Last Mountain, and in tiio direction of the north end of the Irist Moiintain Lake,
Jlr. Macoun thus describes the country: —
" We now began to feel that we were entering on tlio great Ireoless plain
spoken of by Palliser. Numerous ridges containing gravel and white lime-
stone boulder's wore passed, and in the hollows between numerous saline lakelets
were seen. Eeyond this the land descends gnidually towai'ds Ijong Ijako.
From our camp of 4th July. West of us Last Mounlii'in rearcMl itself I'l^) ubout
10 mHos away. To tho north-west no high land could bo seen, (ml north-east
the line of the Touchwood Hills was visible. Throughdut the wlioht area pass-
ed over, tho distribution of plants was very limited. One day one or two species
will monopolize the whole soil, and the next day others ami no on, Mush-
rooms are abundant and of enormous size."
" I had a pit dug in the very driest part of tho hill, and Jouiid tiral-class
soil, although the surface was largely covered with pebbles, After a few ti-ials,
I discovered that the pebbles were no proof of a gravelly soil, but wore only
a remnant of the prairie fires."
"AH travellers throughout tho north-west, having seen indications of gravel,
have invariably noted the soil as being gravelly, where in reality hardly any
could be found in tho soil by digging."
"The top of Last Mountain was covered with wood, but its fhiiiks wore per-
fectly bare and naked. Flowers are a most conspicuous feature of these
prairies, being in clumps or scattered, but always in tho gi'oatost profusion.
GENERAL DESCRIPTI'
OF DISTRICT.
"Extending from the Qu'Appelle north-wost by Thcftsant, File
and touchwood Hills to Quill Lakes, and eastward to tho vicinity of
Livingstone, and southward a little east of the 102nil moridiuti, is a tract of
country containing at least 7,000 square miles, or about 4^ million acres of
excellent soil. It is truo that its western side is almost dovoiii of wood, but
to compensate for that, the hills extending all along this (lank are covered
with wood. Pheasant Plain, which extends from tho crossing of the i'elly Road
eastward for 25 miles, is altogether without wood, but tho soil is exceedingly
rich, and at no point is tho wood to the south-west 10 miles distant. Proceed-
ing northward of the travelled road the country becomes moro broken, ponds
and marshes are numerous, and wood increases both in size and ([uantity until
it merges into continuous forest south of the location of the Cunadiui! Pucitio
Railway. A rich black loam, about 15 inches in depth containingsmall grains,
of quartz or other rock, is the prevailing surface soil, but this imperceptibly
passes into lighter colored uandy loam, as the timber bocymes more coutinuoua
1^3 — loj
I
194
and -jf a lai-Kor growth Tho subsoil i« gonorall> a light coloroJ, mailv clav
on .S'" " ''i"'*" '^"■•* °*,.*'''' ^"-'"^ meridian houLlorn wo-o numerous fl)r abn„
.,r.wl -V i"'"'^' '""'"'•'• ""'■*? ''"^ '"^"^ ^^° «"'^^'^'' '""^ found it as above. Tested will
Tl.oS.frt'r'r'?"" "^'^ ^'^'''^ !'"-«'° l.orcontago of carbonate of
^r ,.1 , f ^'"il'ff.on tho tract passed over by mo is of very little value, but -Ci
t^r£ i;"",h" '"^' l^^'^P^r ^^•"' ^' found in the hills/ Other explo.^t";
avelled the northern and eastern portion of this section, speak li.rhlvo?
n ber, and of .ts being in considerable quantity. Spruce' is' also .md^in
wTl '!?:* H 7'""«': °*. 't. but much tine spruce is sure to be f .and on the h
waters of tho Assin.boine, and can be floated down to any poit.t
Good water seems to prevail thioughout tho whole region, althouirh tbei,
e few runningstreams, and those ,iui(o small. Leach Lake being S\,
may contain hsh. As there is abundance of timber in th'vt Miction ,m
wate, a large settlement will spring up there In a i;!. or two! '' '"^ ^"^
n.Hl n, >"T "^'"/-^^^.^ SO frequently spoken of, are abundant in this section
and average from the size of a flower plot up to a number of acres.'' '
See iiiso Appendix, Pac. U\j. Rep., 1879.
5L
105 Marrnm Exploration, 1871).
Hnn.lfr'r^i"™.'?"'^ ^'? "°'"^^ '".'^ "^^'^'t Mountain Lake and thence travollin.
th., ^J.^^tf uTT\t' m''''^ ''""'i" ^ doprossion that had a gentle descent from
tho east at least 10 miles; on tho west side the land seemed to slope upward
U the west as gently as it did in the east. Tho plants about the fakeCo
a saline character, and the water slighUy brackish "
th« ."/^•''"'''"^ of/?;'^ measuring 7f inches across the ejes and 9i inches from
?ake ami at" ° h'^ """'^ ^'Z*^' '"^?^ '^' '^'''' ^''' ^«"»d ^' f ast Moui S
-Lake and at the same place pelicans, geese, ducks water-hens in,i
numerous beautiul waders make th'eir ho^e^ Aftoi Sef J'lview of t e
at Th'I,.r„ "'"^'"T ?^ the Qu'Appelle Indians. I have come to the conclun
hat there are more fish and fowl around or in this lake than would suZ
ituT ISut rt- p' '•' ' ^"^'' '!.''f,"' '^t' ?"'^««"'^ ^^y Co.'s servants E;;
little about It. Passing around the head of Long Lake from the east
Mr. acoun writes : " Here we found a creek a few yafds wide wiUi a shiS
?o;i^h'er'o;r?r;7H'i^*^"v ^r^''^'' '"''^ fro^mtheS:; kweS™
H««^ In? ^'^^''"f '•;5°''^"i character. This creek had a gentle current of
dear water, Avas nearly three feet in depth and about eighteen wide AM
wier was seen a short distance above our crossi-ig, showinj that the fish fan
rcr.eTsttrtE th^e-o^ti'e?-™"^ ''--' --^'^ --'' b- tlTifeSnrS
believe the land on this stream will be found of unqufstionable" alue as h
water m the creek was quite pure. It is quite possible that further exploa-
^.o^'Mi'^'r r'l'?r 1*^,^' ^^^'^t'^ «"« ""^^^^ ^^'^ containing fi8bT
Maoo„n^.!J^;hn 1 ^® }^^^ to where he crossed the 106th meridian. Mr.
Macoun describes the country as being rather rough, with ..nod =-;i 4 .u
hills aud the depressions more or less alkaline and marshy, with very "leng and
thick grass as far west as Little Arm Creek veiy i»n^ anu
ght coIoroJ, miiily eiav
I gonomlly gneiss cov eiea
wc"o nil morons fi)r abmr
was hodii tou stony fur
it as above. Tested witl,
ago of carbonate of linie,
ory little value, biitgoi-i
Is. Other explorers whi.
tion, spoak highly ol'itj
I'uuo is also found in the
I to 1)0 f.und on the hem
any point.
region, although there
Luke being fresh wiUor,
1 that section, and gool
'or two.
bundant in this section,
)or of acres."
ko and thence traveliinir
half of this section, Mr!
a gentle descent from
semed to slope upwards
ts about the lake are of_
yes and 9J inches from
found at Last Mountain
ucks, water-hens and
a careful review of the
I come to the conclusion
ke than would support
ay Co.'s servants know
Lake from the east,
Is wide, with a sluggiiih
.he first creek we came
had a gentle current of
pighteen wide. A fish
ing that the fish ran up
eek, but this contained
hich certainly contains
cs Wolverine Creek. 1
stionable value, as the
that further explors-
•e containing fish."
le 106th meridian, Mr.
with STOod soil on the
ly, with very l»og and
195
Marcus Smith Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Marcus Smith, proceodiiig north-wostvriy from Qu'Appellc Lakes tolho
Moo!<o WoodrJ, travelled diagonally througli this section.
" Wo crossed some tracts of good land, but generally the soil is not deep,
resting on a stiatum of gravel and sand, and it soon became dillieult to find
water for the horses and for culinaiy purpoKCs.
About 40 miles from FortCiuAppelle we crossed a lumpy country, indented
with numerous small iK)n(ls, around which are clumps of' poplars; shortly
afterwards we saw the Egg Hills, 10 to 12 miles tt> the houlhwest. The
country became loss broken but still rolling, and at .'iO miles we entered on
a bare prairie, not a bush to bo seen as iai' as the eye could reach. Wo wercv
nearly abreast of the west end of the Touchwood Hills, and entering on that
dreary alkaline plain which is almo-it a desert, the soil only yielding a scant
pasturage. This dreary plain extends from the Touchw<).)d Hills westward
nearly C) tho South Sur,Uatcliewan, southward to Long Lake and the range of
hills which stretch from the head of it to the South Saskatchewan, northward
beyond the telegraph lino and beyond Quill Lakes. "
Sos also Appendix Pac. liy. Rep., 187!).
11
106 Marcus S.nith Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Marcus Smith, travelling north-wosterly from (iu'Appollo Lakes totho
Moose Woods, crossed the northeastern corner of this section.
" The range of hills between the bead of Long Lake and tho Saskatchewan
is broken up^into detached ^, roups, rising abruptly 200 to .500 feet above tho
level of the plains; they are entirely bare, tho smallest bush not to be seen, but
there are numerous ponds and la'<olots, some of them containing good water,
others are very salt and alkaline. Along the northern edge of this range there
is a narrow strip of fine land, well watered, and wo saw several herds of deer.
We struck the South Saskatchewan near the north end of the Moose Woods.
Wo had been some days without wood for cooking and very short of water;
that which we did obtain from marshy, dried up ponds and were forced to use,
was abominable, and some of tho party as well as the horses sulleied from it.
Even tho Wolverine Creek, which rises away to the north of the telegraph line,
where the water is sweet, becomes, before it reaches Long Lake, impregnated
with alkali to some extent, though tho water U still not bad and far better than
that of tho other crooks in the neighbourhood, some of which arc unfit for use.
Macoun Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Macoun travelled through this section near the centre of the south half
of it, crost^ing the Saskatchewan^'at " the Elbow," and bearing thence north-west
to the 107ih meridian, whore it intersects Red Doer Lakes.
Tho country between tho lOGth meridian and the elbow of tho south
Saskatchewan was found to have very little water and no wood except in the
sand hills to the south-east of tho Elbow, and tho soil to bo poor, gravelly, and
very dry. Speaking of tho valley of tho Saskatchewan at the Elbow, Mr. Ma-
coun says, " ash, elm, maple, poplar, choke-cherry, and white thorn are m
thickets or single along the flats, but not a bush or tree is found on tho prairio
on either side of the river."
BILATIVE LEVELS OF QU'APPBLLE RIVER AND THE SOOTH S VSKATCHEWAN AT THE ELBOW.
" It having been supposed, and even stateu as a fact during my stay in
Winnipeg, that the waters of the South Saskatchewan could be easily lot int<»
m\
i I
tlio(i(i'Ap|,ullo River, I con«i.lort),| il „( m) m..,.!, Ir. ,. ] ^
T', feet In^he.. than il^.^uli::.::!:;)^'^^^;;;:';^^^^^^
SOUTH 8AMIUT0IIBWAN.
••oiling it. uXa fli.., fc^iw^^^rill ,"• . .!S 'S hi > "'" '"'^hty 8aHkHt<.he;;;;
phtco m this aii.i ,ogi„n. Thi. river al ,i . ^ ' '''•''■"""^' "'t')«cther out
the main chun„oi over whid ,,.,,,. 1' 'T'"'^' ""''" '^" ^''^"'■^ ^'^J". i'
'lothino. to indirato that thorivor at tl 7 ' '"' "«''''^"""il inlands, (,„
" Why the sou, h l.ranH. ':.":.; 1 iT'-mlir"'"' '"■ "'"'^''' '■""•"
undorstaii,]. Mr. JlJn.i, who jmsso.l .jou- ^ ' / ' ""^''^.'^l'**". I fiinii
^ts .lo,„h as hc.in. loss 'than Evc^ a ' h f lol /'f/.N ' , '' '' ""^--I>-k.o
more than three miles an hour ovc.M.t v '""^ ""i the eurront as ncvc
I'^HIiscr, who crossed th^Hv;' a mm ' ' T" '." "'^' ^'*'^" J^™"^"!'.
1H:.7. stales tha, the water in 1. ' f "' -'^'-vo mo .-, .'8.h Septem,,.
wa-i<o„, was :.0 (eet deep." ' "'" ^•'"'"""'. v/horo thoy lo.st thfi,
" While on the pliiin-^, I never Iiph'.I ..c .i ■ .
mouth of ti,e Rod lir Rive Pa) i" ,V , '? l^'"' '^°'"^'/>rdahlc bolo^v t!.
about sixty tnilos ahovo that poin L ;;',,';'' '.j ^>!^>22,.Un\y, m
i'on, hvo to ei,i,^ht foot .ieop. Wiu«. at I o I I I , , r- >'''^ •^'"''^■^ ^^"'"' "'"
a l;nu„.h oftho South Sas/catehowan 27 A '^ V:V;r''['''?' ''^? ^''^ '^'"^^
withtho utmost dithoulty that hn.^oH nj ' *' '"!'' ^ ^°""'' that it w;h
person over mentions a tapid hein^. ZwU^l i the' H '""', T""^'"^- >'
1 have eomo to tho eonelu' ion that theJo nn . in ^^ °'" ^"''*^ ''''■•^' •■^" f'^'
^vantel fo,. „,o son.h.we.t hoin,. s ' ?„ ^; .''s' J, ' '?r"V''' '"'" "'''l'''^''
ahnnaant ,n tho river hanlcs nt tlTo Mlaek l.ol V,> •^•'■*l<atehewan. Goal h
that the.e will be no d,tHcul.y ^to f ! .^^ ^S^''^ •"''''r''- '^''^tward, .
made to navi^rate tho rivor, it will bo I,,, ,"'* '"""■'^' '^''..nld «„ attom|,tl«
period oi the year than the N^ 'il/ S,, ',, ^tr^;/'" ^^ -^e'- «- a lol,,e,
greater o.vtont of tho mountains " '"'• *" "' ''""d waters draim
p.ai.^£^::n;r^.:!;^ ti^'s- i^m^^'zzr''] . ;^« --^^ '■•«
unt. we wore foreod to stop by i.ill of Tw, f "T!^ ""■' "'"' P"'"' ^oi'
the horses were tbedini.-, I toun.l a ..ar ow ?l ' '^'''' "'"""^ ''^' "■'^- Wl,ile
sand, through which wo were able to r:^ t:T'\ '^^ '''^''' '""■^ ^'l-nre
mov^^nd down the we. ,1 r.. solr 'diit,:,;- J..^.:^:^^';^-^
V^o^^^^::j':::::::S^^^^^^ «tonce; the ho„o.
o.evig^.:i:t ^'sz^^li;.;;;'^^pn:!r.r:s; '^ i-- r-^^ «^ ^"-^
c.ently lonj. for ^ood hay, and amp y d r<md .^1''^ """^ 'l"^ S^nss nuffi-
dry, arid country. The grass seoTwas tl m orZTV^''^ '^'' ^''^
meadow grass, and it was particuhiriy no ol 1 ff^ ,".^"'' ^"'.^^^'^ "P'"'"'
burned either during the last fall or H^Pi^/h.lr • "'"* fe"''i^« had not been
all the moisture for this year-s c rop Se fal f^';i?'"j?' ^ '"'^'"'^ '^^'' ™"*''>«^
that thi8 region is arid and unpi^Tuctive ""^ '^"P'""^^ ^'^^ impresaioa
See also Appendix Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
porlaiico to aNcorliiin
•oIIikI IkicIc 15 mil
miles
Ti.
'irooCil.oQu'Apprllo,
inilo and a lialf (Vom d,
Hiomif,'htySaHl<a(chowa
Hfoniitif,' alto^rytfiorout
k*''i.>< 77U yards wido, a^,,
» vva.s tiot losM tliiin 50
oticasioiial islainN, |,j
"ilod for navi^'ii iofi,"
'"'■ naviiration, I cilnn
|f^^ lHr>^, novorspoabo
"i llio etiiTontas novei
lio Norta Branc-h.
on)o,..'i .'Hth Hoptornhnr
ol, v/htco thoy |,j,st thoir
I'oin;,' fordablo bolow ti,j
H i-aft, 2Jnd July, 185')
v'UH 250yard,s wide, anJ
•"■''•■-ingofthoBow Hmr
I7!', r found that it win
itliout Kwimminir. >;,,
•ivof bolow thi.s, .so tlia-
I'i'ovont iiij tho snpiilio.
■Siisifatehevvan. 0„al U
md^ Cartlioi- oustwani, so
'Should an attempt b
uttnr watoi- for a lonirei
Its head waters drain a
itcs : '< We i-enchod the
"I'i hills and poor soil
Id ahuad of us. Wliiie
' tvvohigli hills of pure
Morth-wost of iho hilk
il<o, on the (iu'Appelle,
iHkatchcwan, above the
'lie to three miles from
I "t once ; the hollows
■nd gi-eon. Water w;h
tree or bush was to be
low range of hills or
1 with rich grass sui-
■ement that this was a
whos, but good upland
Id grass had not been
a mulch that retai/icd
sprovethe impressioa
107
ii
107 Micoun Exploration, 1879.
From tho iniorsection of (lie 107lh meridian with i{ed Doer Lake, travelling
north-wost to tho centre of this section, Mr. Macoun thus reports: —
" Being doterriiined to see if the lake had an outlet to tlio west, I walked
along its margin while the train kept the plain so a.s to shun the cnulcos which
were at least 150 toot deep at the lake. All the dejtossiuns on the plain con-
tained good water, and the land was excellenl."
" Observed a laigo creek flowing itdo tho lake from the south." Speaking
of tho country north-west of, and adjoining Hcd l)eer Lake, Mr. Macoun says;
" Ilei'c we were in a region, where I'alliser, 22 years before, tounil numerous
Bpecies of lui'go animals aiul tho L'l'ass enten so low that he could not get
food foi' his horses, with the grass knee high, the wild animals all gone and tho
poor Indians pcrisiiing of famine."
A careful examination of Palliser'.s track 'iws that much of the country,
thought by him to bo arid, was made so liy imnionse herds ol' bull'alo that ato
up every gi'oen thing. " The valley of Ked Deor Lakes contains very liltio
wond at present, and most of that is dry, but the remains of lari^o trees were
seen on both sides in the coulees, showing that continuous tires were surely
doing their work."
" The range of hills which Hecni to extend on boili (.ides of tho lakcfl is
exceedingly rich and fertile, and the grass upon them is just as green as wo
could see i' in May in Ontario. About three miles from where we took dinner
wo came on the western margin of them, and saw at our feet a wido plain
stretching awaj unto tho horizon, perfectly level, a.~.d seeminirly without a
bound in that direction. To tho north-oast wo could see tho Moose Woods.
Right on top of the hill were the remains of a camp, and here both vvboaland
barlc}- were growing luxuriantly. '''.10 soil on this plain is a strong clay
covered with very rank green grass, which indicates a moist cliniate. Wo
have now discovered that want of rain is not the cause of water being scaico,
but the level ness of the prairie. Wherever the co. ;itry is rolling tlioie water is to
be had in abundance. From the centre of tho section, north to the r)2iid paral-
lel, tho countrj' is alternating prairie and rough hills with occasional sand
dunes with climatic indications similar to those above described Mr Macoun's
assistant, Mr. Wilkins, travelling from tho centre of this section in a zig-zag
course to near tiio south-west corner of it found the country as follows : —
•' Uj) to the foot of tiie Third Prairie Steppe, which advances into nearly the
controot the south half of this section, receding towards tho north-west an 1 south-
west, the country is generally a level plain, tho soil a strong clay and very
rough, being cracked up in many places, but the grass good everywhere/'
" Water is generally scarce, but a crook with very gooil water runs north easterly
from the south-west corner of the section, almost aci'oss it, occasionally widen-
ing out into quite large lakes. At tho base of tho steppe, the clay changed into
a loamy soil, well suited for farming pui-poses ; the grass being rank and good.
In the south-west corner of tho section was found a lake about two miles long
and quite narrow."
^eoi aho Appendix, Pac. By. Sep., 1879. i
il
108 Macoun Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Macoun's assistant, Mr. Wilkins, travelling -west across the centre of
the south half of this section sa^s ! —
" Entered rolling hills with numerous lakelets of fresh water. Travelled all
day through the same description of country on an early due west course, and
1P8
' r'i" "<: :' '-'«.. ""iiK ;^;;"1;i=;';;;ts'"S:,'!;;;.:th .up-"
n>».i. .no.Mi,,„, .„„ :,„,?„;.";;t"r,,:,„',:;: ,;:™:t,.i,,!,'1';:;.'''" • ""■ •
«eo also Appendix, Pa<\ liy. n,.p., isTJ.
109 Maroun Exploration, 1879.
^■■■.'"'=s,;;i:i'i;:»rt^,ir'^« -- "™"" •"• .^
with plenty of .rooil miiHs iin<l w.fo,. r/ X '^'> Vtmn^r day ,ii| ,|
;;i;:.=ip=ii;:r-r3.^''£H^^^
medhaely ane.. ntartin., a'nd Haw H^no Kw J^ ' '^"'"'■^" ^'"""^ '""-">•
cred< flowing, in,,, IJ.d l»eL- 1 ver' T 1. v II "'"''°' l'"»'"^'^^ 'I'o i'oad of a
level ,.!• tin, MMid hilKs t .o.e 111; firmLV ^^i "^"^ '*'';"" ^"" ''''"^ ^"^'"^ "'"
generally. The sa d 'h « L-e ab(fut S^ "' ^ •' '"^ "'" "^■^'' "'" ^^o platoaa
many p.loln of M„od wa e Afte? e- Sn..^ "" T'l'l ^r'" "'"5 ""leg-'aHBlmt
the uo:hLHdian:wi;sirwi;ki.;^:..:::z:;;c;i s;:'5;^l^^
See also Appendir, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
51
110 Macoun Exploration, 1879.
" Au.nist atl, «fo..VV ""'".^'^'^"^ ^o west, describes tiie country bh follows--
loam." .. No^ enter on an alSin, Xin wd t ,Z .ft "* °^''«"'"'"'I»J
thro„,h a broken counliy »ith n ,MraM,ali„„ ,l,„l , "7'"''" ""'' '"""S
AiKTu-tfith 1" hr-- af^-.. I ,- -y' '=''*'^tin>f fromaboilUhftmflridmn
.-noWera^ei^i:\S^:.rr.!rr4rzt't°ur.\»r^^^
lire IiumIs wjif, oxcollo:)!
ic'l lliiM Ibi'onooii ovdiii
out ;,'nix.s iui(i nnriuToii.
iK'li I he HiniK.. (!iitii|,„|
Dim ,11(0, \>)\ rnilos.
'iinci to bo '2M lm,[ ,|„,,„
,'. IJolli wiiloi' mill Moil
si of thi.t collide, to the
iiliovo "
west ncross the hoiuIi
■ Lilt. 51° 2.V, a vallov,
Dil, Htron^r (,|,iy „ii ,1,,^
uleo moiitionod abovo,
and cnlort'd on rollim,'
», rich bliK'k loam with
' iTiiios. Tbotico travel-
I from hilly to ridgw,
lid tho usual clay m(h|'
toppod ti)r dinner iila
tered tiiOHand hillMim-
It tho oi^'bth of a mile
>ublloHH, iho iioad of a
nil 21)0 feot bolow the
10 lovol of tho plateau
taininif little grasH but
tho land waw of the
continued tho Hamo to
Lat, 51° 18'."
liH section about tlio
c'ountiy as fbllowH :-
11,' hills until II a.m.,
hills is excel lontcliij
ernoon wore pasnlng
nd sweet water ponds,
les.
iountryaro similar tfl
of the country, it is
jrain."
nd travollinf,' south-
m about the meridian
•an^To of hills and savT
h an abrupt escarp-
199
merit on its eastern face. Tlieso ranRos wore both sandy and pontainwl u littio
biushwood. When we roacliod tii.' top of tho next laiiKo wo found many stoo|)
couloos branching (ilV ill ari.ms dircclioiis. Availinf^ourselvos onho-.o, wo extri-
cated ourselves In. in tlu. bills with much difficulty and crosscl to thoir western
Hide, whore wo found a valley of Kroul bro'.idlh oxtondini; south oust and north-
woht ; a crock soomod to flow along its western si.io, as " cut banks wore seeti
in that diioctioii." /.,. i-n
" Al'lor dinner wo kept up tho vnllov, and passed over a spurot theliillson
tho left, and then doscendod into tho v<.llcy again, close to the creek. Where wo
crossed, it was seven fool wide with six inches of flowing water. Tho viilloy
was very dry on tho north side and numerous small cactus grow in it. I wo
miles beyond the crook wo ciimpe I, Imt wero chagrined h> find that within
two miles of us to the west we would have to cross again."
" August 7th Crossed tho creek this morning with little difficulty. All
the morni'ii" wo wore going up ridge over ridgo under an intensely hot sun
surrounded by thousands of ' bulMogs.' Flios so ba.il at noon that tho horsoH
could not oat. " During tho afternoon wo crossed a rolling country wliero
there wore numbers of salt lakes ill the hollows, with excellent water in tho
more elevated ones. Land to-day passed over good for littio except pasture.
This brought Mr. Macoun to tho 111th meridian.
5L
III
Seo also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
Macoun Exploration, 1879.
Entering this Koction at about Latitude 51° 80', and travelling southwest
to about tho centre of tho south half of it, Mr. Macoun thus describes it :
" For a mile or two after starting tho country improved, but soon it bo-
came dry and stony, with great numbers of boulders on all tho little hills.^
Near the centre of tho south half of this section, having como on Mr. WilkmH
trail which crossed it from east to west, Mr. Macoun says: "Turning west, wo
passed for an hour over alkaline flats, covered with Artemisia cana which
may he said to be tho "sago brn>h" of our plains, then rolling hillsof the same
character, but passing at last into richer soil and better grass, with a hno lovol
country Wo now began to ascend gently over a fine prairie, and camped at it»
hi"hest point. This is tho finest country I have seen for a week and woU
HuTted for the plough. Soil a rich black clay loam with long grass that indi-
cated moisture beneath ; nearly north of us is a chain of small lakes which are
™ Passing north-westorly from thi,s point, Mr. Macoun thus .lescribos the
country: " During tho afternoon thec..:Try was nearly lovol, excc-pt that it
ro.so L'ontly to the west, with occasional depressions of littio depth, lliis m the
driest region wo have vet soon, as abundance of small cacti are growing on the
plain botwoen tho cree'.cs. After we passed tho third creek the land bocarao
more elevated, ami at our camp the gra.s8 was good with abundance of water.
About 5 miles from camp crossed a largo creek with Howing water about 7 loet
in width an<l (5 inches in depth, and in half an hour another one. Between the
two creeks the ground is very rocky, boulders being thickly strewed over the
surface. Lato in tho evening reached Blood Indian Crook, with banks 150 toot
'^ The lines explored by Mr. Wilkins, both north and south of Mr. Macoun'9
line wero of tho same character as that de.scribed above. Mr. .Macoun in his
general icpori of this section, says : "The dry arid tract now under considera-
tion has more creeks with flowing water in them than are to bo found in all
the rest of the plain. Hero anwing watci n.i^. caciu. ...-.- JiJ o
another proof that the Cretaceous clay was a factor in more
poor sou gave
200
l< !
OENERAL REMARKS ON THE GREAT PtAIN.
't <)"««, in Juno nn, r,!. Ji^ 11 ^''° ^'■"'^^'^ ^^ •^"'■e'»'«- Comintr ^
-Ption: i3.rt whJ.;\^o\. lhe':"bi S'Xs"' :;"J-en S "u^'?''^' -''^^ ^ «
Halinow.landanar Sramrnr.?!?'^^^^^^^ ''''''"•'' ""'' arteminia, wit ■
inlol .OKlil, i„,ioa,l oin.nn n, „»■ "'C ivliolo cilll.tlj, wuulil have i)a«l
thoy<ionn.i;.ti;:'^..:;r^i;;S,r:;,E^.'-^ ^'^^ "'^"'■'' '"^« ^'^ -•'.'
Soo also Appendix Fac. Rep., 187!).
112 JWarown Exploration, 1879.
-Sa;^i^i^i^!'^rs-iL^^^^^^^ .-.
bec.an>l^'r;;^bS::lS'r;^!,:s -r rSu^;^'^ ';r'°^ rM"« ■="-' ^^"- ^^
walor i,. 11,0 l.ollows and very «no nnsn in T "'"- '""' "^^ '' ««'«llent
|'«M^xcH,,,t in extreme cases Nun?<^ro,^A^ "^"^ '^ ■'•^ ""«'<■"'
♦liM'liaivroM ii |a,,,o,. |a|,,j |.,in„ g.,.^^ '*■ P ,1 " ;",•„" *" ,'" ^•'■*-'^''f «"(ors which
t»"H.u,.o on the HbovJV\ht I't! !-* ^':!i^;'"'* ^!.'"^ 1 ''« ''"'•■'^es found good
and
^'oing wokt t(i
n- " .".f^ui i.iKo lyini' east o
paslmo on the shores of the IrIva " y".'.^ -V'""' "J"7 ' "" ""'■'*^*~^ "^""'^ good
f'."*!. Lake and the ied Deef Eive, ' Sf A^ "' '^e country; l,e,ween l!ittle
bp.wcon this and the rive, w s han 'h. f f'"" '"r ' ^^ ^''" ^''"'« P'ai"
~pp'^^:-£!t^ ^;^- whe..e the n2th n.eHdia„ int.
Expo..ionceTn;uch'difficu£'?: rSlni'tio"* ■'''''' ^"^"^ '""«^' ^« »'- ^"'^
rami<vin all di.ections fb^m i «i^ ■ ^^J ^^'"o^ *'^ '^« coulees whicli
and liioiiMnargins like cut backs' rZ *"T ^'■"'" "^^ ^« •'^»» ^«o^ *J«^P-
wood and ufei tree but we ello^^^ ™"''« "'• I«^«*^ »"uX
then they widened Jut Ve.y^H,t lo ^^^^7'^' """' T^ «PP'-"«^''ed the rive.,
»t. Scarcely any vogeiat.on was found in the valley except cactu; and
201
J id we over find tlu, wk^j
pt here, wheie il was J
AIN.
*tinctly that tho rainfa!
'th of'eoroals. Coming a
17 need it, and coasi'ni
iiitablo for tho ^^n'owih
I) or gruvol vvum no ej
f by Jlec-tor, in Paliiser'j
"s and artemisia, with
by tho ciimato. A mot
apparently unproduetira
of tho whole. Alter soc
)rn inteniso h<at and div
tlioiU thcf-e clay.s there
^•ailed, aridity ..howed
ar:d burnt up, but, bad
a «oo(l ci'op, as tho sum.
itry, would have |)asscd
7 nourrt into tho air, as
' 2(j", and ^'oing wokt
ilo.sof the lake, when it
inir hills with o.xeollent
'■"lis littlo valley.s. On
Hint up; in liie'hilLsno
'!•< from ?i()rth to soutli-
I>eor Jliver."
ri breadtii, iind contain?
'th that it is unfit for
at tho diNchaifro of the
lall crook enlorH which
The horses found good
'ountry fetwoen Little
■f* : " Tlio whole plain
very much cracked
o level plain, no break
112th meridian inter-
911 miles, to the south.
to the coulees which
»0 to 300 feet deep,
more or less brush-
approached tho river;
a the river and that
ley except cactus and
arteniisia, which occupied tho grcalcr part of the surface. It was the hard
baked clay that hindcied all other vcnetablo growth, and not tho dry climate."
" Tho valley was about 1,000 yards wide, tho river itself about 140, and tho
height of the banks nearly aoO feet on the east side, but fully 200 highoronthe
west.
Th
river valley as iisua
1 was very dry. Its right baiilc looked
from tho camp like the broken face of a very rugged mountain, rising in bare
rounded knolls one over tho other fully 500 Icci. A few very largo trees
were in the vallej' wliero wo crossed ; one poplar was 13 feet in circumlerenco,
and others nearly as largo."
Travelling fiom about tho interfOi-tiim of tho Rod Door River with the
112lh meridian southwest to the r»lst jjarallol, Mr. ilacoun reports:—
" I had carefully examined all the slides from the valley, as wo went \\\) tho
hill, and observed that this bank was tho same as the other ujjIo the limestone
exposure. Seeing a bold escarpment topping tho bank at a paiticular point,
I wont there and discovered a fine exposure of sandstone. The beds got harder
as I approached tho top, and for a few yards the rock on its upper surface was
laid bare by the washing away of a seam of soft shaly lignite whiih lay
immediately above it. The .seam was about four foot in depth, and above it
was a layer of quartzito gravel followeil by tho usual prairie drift. I discov-
ered a very fine out-ciop of a first-class lignite, at least tive feet thick, in a
small coultJO opening into iho ' Crawling Valley.' The bo<ls scon at this point
agree in no particular with those seen by Di'- Hector further up tho river. Ho
states that the ligiuto seen by him was nearly on a level with the water,
whereas this is on tho suiface. I believe these strata are roforablo to tho same
beds as those occuring at Porcupine Creek on the Boundary."
See Dr. Biiwsoii's Report, page 98.
"Crawling Valley e-xtonds from lied Doer River to Bow Rivor at the
Elbow." " As far as seen, numerous spiings of fine water issued from itssides."
From Red Deer Rivor, Mr. Jlucoun proceeded .south-westerly ^in the
direction of Blackfoot Crossing, and thus speaks of tho country :—•' For two
miles after stalling the coimtiy was level, but after that it became rolling, and
increased until we stooped for dinner. After dinnei , the depressions between
the hills were all clay, and, as usual, much cracked. The hills were rather
higher, and the valleys longer and wider, and fresh water .scarcer, than in tho
forenoon. The soil on this side is much better than bo3-ond the river, and, as
a con.sequence, tho grass is longer. There is abundance of fresh water in tho
ponds and niarshes, and no sign of salt lakes. This country extends ten miles
to the southeast, and after tliat it becomes more .sandy, passing eventually into
eand hills."
Mr. Wilkins passed north-westerly through the northern half of this
section, and reports: — " On the Hand Hills the land was fl>und of fair quality,
but the ))!isture dry and much parched. The norihoi'n face coutainod some
poplar of a fair size. Betwoon the Hand Hills and tho Squirrel's Head tho
land was generally a hai'd-baked clay, intersected by coulees, or a ])lain covered
with poor grass and a gravelly soil. After entering tho rolling hills, at the
Squirrel's Head, the soil improved, and tho valleys were filled with good grass.
The clay, instead of being baked, became friable and bettor suited for farming
purposes."
Soe also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1819.
-5i
113 Macoun Exploration, 1879.
'ur. Maeoun passed westerly through the
seotioa on his way to Oalgarry.
south-western cni-Rer of this
1;)
I'
l-'l
202
51
114
seen, but thoy wovo not too abundant.
Seo also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
Macoun Exploration, 187H.
wost I'lH,??'' !""" ''"•''•' °^tending ea.stwardn, with very little din to iU
ii 11,0 I„,li.,„ wJre'trouMesle"" ' '"" """''' '"' ""'^ ''"'= I>~'»"»»
<loubt the finest lot 1 had in'. ! ^'^l^ba^e. all cojnmoncing to head, and without
oeHont.aSd iZtoes ve v fin? V?^? • ■ ^".'°^ ^"'^ "f ''' '" ^^"^ «'^™'' ««''» ^^''^ ^^•'^■
off had'al^o'excdle rc7on and altl^nlrf . "°' '^'l^^'^'^;: ^■^™°'- 'iving a few mile*
enouLrh to L'row -invthin? -' A -^ "' "''^""^ ^'>''* ^^^ ^''^ate was moist
that proxim rtoThe MonnfSn"" ? ^'"^'^ ^;'' •^'''""''''^ ^' »« «"'- ^^''^ I «"«?««'
slower «row h th m f-^S 1„ . ^ u *7'^«"«^. ^ "«''' ^*»« "'«»>'«- ^"J hence
orelayirm andvervfl^^^^^^^^ ,A" A'^*^ '""'^ seemed to be either a «andy
grain and voiles L^Th! ^ * '° ^'"f" ^^''''^°"« Misssion all kinds of
L,U,roLnfp"h' -nri^ ■ '•^"«"'^' ^"^^ ^'^hongh moat of the irrmnd h*l
his brother haS dte^a^l'tfe Zk^S'LIKJ^^^^^^^^^^
)assea over long slupe,
All the land seen waa
Lchos of bouldors wen
keeping north of Bot
1 very little dip to tlie
the plough."
ve stopped on the top of
bered. At our feet lay
d from side to side i't
and from our altitmje,
xed that the landscape
Standing by the river's
h of cattle and hoises;
sharacter to the scene!
■ith countless herds of
' of affluence. To-day,
ipirit, either dies with'
ounty. Calgarry itself
under a bluff of light
a little grove, could be
on. Outside the river
•izon, dotted hero and
3, e.Kcept in the ^iiUeya
fountains like % wall,
o the picture which the
3r, in the angle formed
is merely a stockade,
voi-y little protoetioii
ds wide, of clear, cold
bed, and contains an
yards wide. All the
pally of throe varieties
ing to Fort Calgarry,
IS as regards soil."
)out six miles south of
g to head, and without
he same field were o.x-
mor living a few miles
the climate was moist
t to cut, and I suspect
the nights, and hence
i to be either a sandy
Misssion all kinds of
3t of the ground had
•od. The Father and
. well.
lOi
2nd September, This was the first time the mercury reached the freezing-
point since we started. Potatoes and beans slightly touched. Started to-day
for Morleyville, and camped about eight miles out. The country passed over
was generally very good, but the hills increased so much in altitude that one
was almost tempted to call them the Foothills of the Eocky Mountains. Wil-
low bushes now became a marked feature in the country, and indicates an
abundant rain fall as well as a cooler climate- From our camp, the high land,
which forms the Foothills on the south side of the river, was plainly visible,
rising to the west in successive ridges, and finally melting into the blue hazo
which hung around the biise of the mountains. Water abundant and good.
3rd September. For two hours after starting, our course was over fine
prairie covered at times with willow brush, and then doscemled into the valley
of Bow Iliver, and passed Uie remains of an old poplar forest, the balsam being
quite large. After reaching the river valley wo crossed Pine and two other
creeks. , .
The country now began to assume a mountainous character, the hills rising
nearly (JOO feet above the river with correspondingly deei> valleys. Still
approaching nearer to the mountains, passed over much good soil covered with
willows, as well as other land of very inferior quality. The land now became
tenaced nlong the river, and was generally up to old Bow Fort, and beyond
nothing but masses of shingle and quartzite gravel, with a thin coating
of earth, or none at all. i -j
The approach to Deadman's Eiver, a mountain stream about 30 yards wide,
and two feet deep at present, is steep and dangerous. Crossing this stream at
its confluence with Bow River, we ascended the two terraces again, and drove
five miles to Morleyvillo over a very good road, but land wholly unsiuted for
agriculture. The road was on one of the river terraces, but to the right the
ground rose in grassy slopes over 200 feet, and in this upper tract were situated
the lands suited for agriculture. Beyond the river the land seemed to be much
better, the hills were lower and farther off, and wood was in considerable
quantities. Observed patches of spruce on the higher and more exposed hill
tops, and occasional pines clinging to the rocky cliffs of Bow River.
Morleyville is situated in u most admirable locality and the scenery is
unsurpassed in the North- West. The hills and valleys are covered with nutri-
tious grass, which is as available in winter as in summer owing to the " Chinook
winds, which frequently blow at that season, evaporating the snow and leaving
the grass as gootl as it was in August. During the warm, dry weather of
August, the grass of the whole plains becomes dry o.xcept a small portion in
the centre of each little tuft, and, as there is scarcely any rain either in Septem-
ber or October, when the snow falls towards the end of the latter month it sifts
down among the dried trrass, not moistening it in the least; here the snow
lies until the " Chinook," a warm, dry wind sweeping along the base of the
Eocky Mountains, takes it away. Morleyville is justly celebrated for its excel-
lent cattle runs, but the advantages it has over the Great Plains consist in its
brooks and numerous springs, and the many sheltered valleys leading up from
Bow River. There is not the slightest difference between the pasture grasses
of Morleyville and those of Fort Ellice, 600 miles to the east.
How far the effects of the " Chinook " winds extend eastward is unknown,
but the fac^ of the Great Plains, around the Hand Hills, being the wintering
place of the buffalo for untold ages, loaves no doubt that the snow-fall is either
very light or quickly melted, ft must not be forgotton, in discussing the ques-
tion ofwi'ntering stock on tlio plains, that no water is needed, the snow eaten
with tbo grass being sufficient. , , . •
The Mission is very well constructed and evei-ything around betokens care
and industry. Mr. Soibold, the teacher, and Mr. Robinson, the gentleman m
charge of the Mission, in Mr. John McDougairs absence, are both nno men.
Crops here are late but gtxtd, aad all kinds of vegetables are excellent. As we
204
are now at an olevation of nearly 4,000 foot and cl(,so under the
ilk
SL
"5
yuiiH deny it. 1 hoy stale that ilns has heen a ate .-ea.son and erons iio not L
!: 7;!::t^=r "^"•"- Taking .hd.. stnton,ent. as t.ue. and l6oSMt\Z
mountains we
for
- as far
;>n Umdsol -.rain can ho raised here as well as^in^Wh;;; e1se"""liift''otil'^r'
the alti(u<h', thov will not ripen carlv ' ' "«
Tho Stony tndiii • ^
reservations put in crop this season. -Hi^.h'orH::';;.;;:" :r-^;*".:'^'"^""!'^«'^
I'CS
to
I ho Stony Indiims are now hecomin^' tarmers, havin.' had 40 acres on tW„
MORLEYVILLE TOWAUDS HAV LAKES.
On his return journey Mr. Macoun left .Morioyvilio on tho 15th Sontomh,.r
noanng the nort ,-«n»t angle of tl.is Melion, ontored » .wo °f Tow wood?!
See also Appendix, Fac. Ry. Rep., 1879. °
Macoun Exploration, 1879.
whch .t leap, and f„„m. will, g.ei /„, ce. S^'i ,t h.S Kd il' 'S ?«rrtl
lor tho mountairiH wo
lio Imvo been hero for
md cropHaie not as far
1 do not doubt thera,
3 else, but, ovviny to
' had 40 dcros on their
chiefs lias ton aei'cs
tho 15th Soptomber,
7 miles after starting/
1 widih, on tho west
ked like tho remains
lirio having an oxcel-
gnuei, lilfo that seen
dicaiing considerable
nd occasional clumps
from death by their
tho hills to tho west,
which was generally
of excellent quality
f>ms and occanional
lual, and the water
md Hoetned of tirst-
he Calgarry road wo
's and a few clumps
incod, owing to the
n tho surface. On
ngo of low wooded
illed the " Hunting
n, travelling west
3yville) the country
Observed a number
!8 of Douglas pine.
1 tho Foothills, and
•avines wore lined
ig lip the valley,
nd partakes of tho
If cliffs ; and when
below Deadinan's
Id Bow Port, tho
•row valley. Tho
flows a mountain
impure iron ore.
I tho river, nround
sd ita last barrier
20)
Lcfoie hjHviiig (ho mountains; and for 20 miles higher up there was little cur-
rent. Movni (,inip 7 miles, and found ourselves at the entrance to the pass.
Tlu^ miiiiiilains ri.so on either hand; those to the south being covered with
wood, wiiilo (hose on the north are bare and very precipitous. My oxamin-
ai'.r.n 'it tho rocks along Bow Iiivei- led mo to think that they, bore a great
roseiiiblanco to rocks I had seen on Thuiuler Bay, belonging to tho Iluronian
SCI ios A tew f'os-ils were obtained, which weio uninistakcably Lower Silurian
di' l)ovonia.i typos. Found the mountain (near camj)) to bo a heavy-bedded
hliie liiiie.-tone. wcatiiering white, containing few fossils except crinoid stems.
S^ i|)t. 8 --Moved cam]) up to (irotto Jlountain ; found abundance of fine
tiout in ilie liver, of three spec- es ; the smallest being about a foot long, and
ill appearance, like our eastern brook trout ; another, rather larger, but with soft
Aviiite tle>h, and the third which often attains a weight of IJO pounds in the lake
niid deep pools bordcringon the liver channel. .Mountain goats and sheep were
fieqiiciilly hcen ; m) that with these and the tish there is no danger of the Stony
Intliaiih f;i:u'vii\;'', if they do not bt'como loo lazy to work. The valleys were
tilled with sliii'gle carried down from tho mountains, which were rotlingaway.
AM 'he plants ohsirved were strictly Alpine. Several fossils were obtained,
evidently I>evoniaii. Snow shc)werM were frequent.
A caicful examination of the timber in tho valley, as far as time would
allow, was made. Tho principal species were Douglas pine, and bcautilul spruce,
the latter growing tall and straight and forming groves on the flats. The other
.•?]iecie.- profericii the rocky slojjes, and were often of a large size ; numbers being
.seen lliico foet ;n ili;uiieter. Fine groves of timber were observed on the south side
of tlio river, from the mouth of the Kannanaskis up its pass and over the moun-
tains Let ween the two rivers. From the situation of the timber, I believe it to bo
principally Douglas pine. I was informed that much finer timber could boseen
higher up the river. By being carefully husbanded, there is a enough timber
on this rivor nnd its tributaries to supply all tho prairie country as far as the
Elbow of the South .SaNkatchewan. All tho water-powor necessary to convert
it into luinl)er exists close to Morleyville, and the river is so placid that it could
borafied to any point without loss.
See also Appendix, Pacific Railway Report, 1879.
FROM THE IOOtII to THE 11.5tH MERIDtAN, AND BETWEEN THE 50TH AND 51eT
PARALLELS OF LATITUDE.
DO Marcus Smith Exploration, 1879.
Mr. ilarcus Smith entered this section on his way from Shell Eiver to Bird
Tail Creek.
"North of tho Assiniboine the country rises gradually and imperceptibly to
the eye up to the crown of the Hiding Mountain, 2,000 feet above the level of
the sea, Tho s juthern portion of this district is chiefly prairie ; the soil good,
but light in some places, and in others largely mixed with boulders. The depth
of the soil in(!reases northward and its quality changes to a heavy loam, well
suited for j^ormanont wheat-growing ; groves and belts of poplar become
froipient and iiUimatoly merge into a solid forest, in which there are good spruce
and tamar.ic.
The north-eastern slopes of Jviding and Duck Mountains are precipitous,
and the flat between them and Lakes Manitoba and Winnipegosis is generally
mai'.-iiy, interse'ivd with sand and giavol ridges covered with spruce, tamarac
and some maple, and some strips of good land interspersed."
See also Appendix, Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
■ i
206
52.
lOI
M
SB,
I02
Macoun Exploration, 1H7!>.
" B(,'(\vocn Fort Ellico and the river (Qii'Appollt^) the road pansoH m-ivlv
throii-li copsowood, with occasional ponds and marshy npots for over a mile
and tiicn doscends a long wooded slope until the level of the river is roaeliod "
" The vegetation in the rivor valley ((iirAppello) in of the most hix.niai'
dcscnpion; peas, vetches, and wild hops vied with other in luxuriance 'tiiil
olimhcd over buslic-t and logs to the almost extinction of other ])lants."
" As soon as wo crossed the river (half a milo from its mouth) wo onteiol
almost ut once into a scries of nbru|)t sand hills which scorned to fill the vtlk-
at Its lowei end." " None of tiie (iu'AppcUo Valloy, as far as seen, was tit for
agnciilturo.
Westerly from tho mouth of the Q'Appollo Rivor above the vallov anl
adjacent to it to tho north, "tho soil is rather poor, but there is nothing to „re.
vent settlement, as sufficient gooil land will bo found on each section to warrmt
Its location, and tho vicinity of the rivers with their wooded valleys will
possd>ly make it a favorite residence for many."
Westerly from Big Sjiring "the country improves, and for a numhci^f
miles a beautiful sandy prairio with littlo wood stretches out to tho horizo,,
bounded to tho west by a low range of wooded sand hills. Beyond these to
Antelope Creek tho country, though sandy, is rich and beautiful, contuinir,.'
many blufts of very good j.oplar." Around Spy Hill tho land is much brolwiT
and there are numoruus marshy ponds in tho depressions, with coi rcsnondin..^
ridgesof sand or gravel." " Cut Arm Creek flows in a valley of considerable
depth. J he land is good but very wot.
(Jencrally between Cut Arm Creek and tho 102nd meridian tho soil i. ;,
rich black loam with a light-colored marly clay for a sub.soil. " Tho various
herbaceous phmts are woiidorfully luxuriant," and see general description by
Macoun in ^"y^. * ■'
Marcus Smith Exploration, 1879.
?^rp ^^'-^'T"'^ Smith traversed this sectii . in various directions.
V "i^Tr '^ ^"^'^ '^^'^^ °^ ''^" Assiniboine, on tho main crail from Bird Tail Creek to
*ort hllice (a distance of 12 miles), and extending southward to tho Assiniboine
IS good, but largely mixed with drift boulders, which wiU cause a great deal of
labor and some years to remove for their sufficiently to allow tho land to be
worked freely.
The valley of the Qu'Appello, at the lower end, is sandy, but before reach
ing tho big Cut Arm the soil improves, and we find crops of grass which
would make good hay. Tho valley is a mile to a mile and a half wide, and the
river about 8i( feet.
Proceeding down the Assiniboine from Fort Pelly.
On the last 50 miles to Fort Ellice the soil is fine gravel covered with a
turn sod, making excellent roads, but very poor pasture.
I'^'om Fort Ellice, up the east side of ihe Assiniboine, to Shell River, is a
bolt of gravel ndgos, evidently a former beach, or river bed, some ten mib
wide, covered with a thin sod. "
See also Appendix, Pac. By. Rep., 1879.
Macoun Exploration, 1879.
^ Midway between the Qu'Appelle Siver and the 5l8t parallel of Latitude.
i«iu irom tno lOana mendiau westward, Mr. Macoun says f " Uurinff the after-
noon wo travelled principally through prairie, with a gradual upward '
the road ))!ihso.s mo^ilv
• Kj)()t.s for ovoi- a miiJ;,
f tho I'ivor is reaclid,''
H of tho nio^t Itixiii'iiiii;
thei" in liixiii-ianco iiih]
f other plants."
it8 mouth) wo onteivl
eomed to fill tho vullov
i fur as Hcen, wan tit tor
above tlio valloy, and
there is notliinir to ^rn-
each section to warrant
r wooded valleys will
, and for a nnmhoiuf
ics out to tho horizon
hills. Beyond tiie.se to
d beautiful, coiituiniii;'
land is much broken!
IS, with coi res pond iiiir
valley of considerable
meridian tho soil is a
subsoil. " Tho vurioiij
general description by
lirections.
i-om Bird Tail Creek to
vard to tho Assinihoine,
'1 cause a great deal of
o allow tho land to be
indy, but before reach-
crops of grass which
d a half wide, and the
gravel covered with a
ne, to Shell Eiver, is a
ir bed, some ten miles
201
t parallel of Latitude,
8 : " During the after-
gradual upward
and bettor drainage, tho whole country being well Huitod for farming purposes;"
and during the next day, 27th June: " The country pasHod lliro\igh to-day was
very lovely, but wood was scarce, in fact less than one por cent." " The tract
passed over today is much better drained than that neon Hinco louving Fort
EUice. Tho crooks aro more defined, and the country risos in oasy undulations
to the south." " Shortly after crossing it (Primrose CruoU). wo entered on tho
north-eastern bluffs of Pheasant Mountain, which is merely a slight elevation
above the usual prairie level. After passing through lovely copsewood for
over an hour, we stopped for dinnner at a pool of good water.
See -^f lor general description, b}'^ Mr. Macoun.
Marcus Smith Exploration, 1 879.
Mr. Marcus Smith, travelling from Fort Ellico on the main cart trail, entered
this section west of Cut Arm Creek.
" West of the Big Cut Arm Creek tho land irnprovoH a little, but is still
light, and the ground is indented with numerous Hmall ponds. This is the
general character of tho country between tho (iu'Apnelle and the main (sarb
trail to Carlton, until roaching the Pheasant and File Jlills, the rise of which
is scarcely perceptible to the eye, but they are partly covorod with groves of
aspen, and the soil is deeper tluin on the open prairie,'
See also Appendix, Pac. Ity. Rep., 1879,
E
103 Macoun Exploration, 18"!).
Travelling west from tho northern limit of tho PlieaMiml flills and passing
south of File ilills to tho 104th meridian, about half way iMilwoen Fishing Lako
and the Slst parallel of Lat., Mr. Macoun thus de>cril)eM the coiintry ; " Shortly
after leaving camp crossed the creek (Primrose) for tho third time, and then
entered on the plain which lay spread out before us with the Pheasant llilla
stretching away to the south, while File Ilills could be dimly seen in the north.
Very-few water pools were seen and no marsh (from PheaHunt to I''ile Hills.) Tho
whole plain lying between the two ranges is dry and level, with a gentle
inclination to *h& south, and having a fertile soil without Htoiics. Abundance of
wood can bo obtained for all purposes on the Pile Hills. Wo now touched the
south-cast corner of tho File Hills, and passed for six inilo^ thniiigli a parlc-like
country' with clumps of wood and occasional water pools. For tho distance tho
land could not be better. Between Polly and Touchwood Roads is the best
tract of land wo have yet seen. Tho whole region is woixlod and slopes
gently towards Qu'Appello."
See sec. -^^ for general description by Mr. Macoun ; ul-o sec. j^j ^or Mr.
Marcus Smith's description.
See also Appendix, Pac. By. Rep., 1879.
*^4 Macoun Exploration, 1879.
of it
Passing through the north-east corner of this soction, Mr. Macoun says
" A boundless grassy plain strotchod away to the horizon on every side,
rising in easy undulations to the north, but falling with Iho same oasy slopes to
the south. No sign of baa land. This country would bo all forest were it
not for tho tires."
123—14
t ;
I
208
Mircus Smith Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Marcus Smith crossotl tho nortli.>ri. part of this soelion on hi. .-,,
from Port Eliico. '^
"The French Missionarios, llalt-brocds and Indians cultivato loss or ni,,.
and in liio vicinity of Qii'Apiiollo laiios, and raiso all ivinds of voLrolablo,
barley and Indian corn and somo fruit, as red currants, etc. Barley wiw cm
and stored hy July liTlh last year. The Fathers complained of a scarcity ,
ha;,- ^'rass, and were mowing course swajnp grass live to six miles from i hi
Mission. ^
"On the L'Sth July tho journey was resumed, taking a north-west coum
rom I'ort Qu Appello, passing nearly midway between thcTouchwood IIiil.;,i„l
the liivor Qu'Appello and its tributary, Long Lake."
See also Appendix, Pac. By. Hep., 1879.
52.
105
5^
io6
i£
107
50
108
5^
109
i?_
no
III See Appendix, Pac. Ey. Report, 1879.
50
See Appendix, Pac. Ey. Report, 1879.
Soo Appendix, Pac. Ey. Eeport, 1879.
See Appendix, Pac. Ey. Eeport, 1879.
See Appendix, Pac. Ey. Eeport, 1879.
See Appendix, Pac. Ry. Eeport, 1879.
See Append-'^, Pac. Ey. Eeport, 1879.
'12 Macoun Exploration, 1&79.
Mr. Macoun entered this section near tho middle, on his way to the Blick
foot Crossing, passing south-westerly, and thus describes it : "The countiVis
much drier this forenoon. Water very scarce. Stopped for dinner at Crowfoot
Croek, which here consisted of a few muddy pools. Eolling hills with deep
hollows between were the general features of the country. Stipa Kloeria and
Bouteoula are almost bunch grasses here. Driest country seen yet. For two
hours after dinner kept down the creek, and then turned up a ravine to the
lA ""k ''"i'n"' }^^ ■ PT'^ }^''f- i^"''^ *"™'"fe' awa/frora the creek,
which IS here 30 yards wide, I noticed a ledge of rock crossino- its bed whicli
on examination, proved to be coal of excellent quality. The seam was 'six feei
in depth, and seemed much deeper than the exposure. .Brought an armful of it
to camp and found it to be a first-class article. It burned with a clear flame
and in the murnjng- was stiil aglow Keaped a few more pieces on and it
tournod all day. The ash is quite white and no slaty cinders were left "
114
iiH Hoctioii on hit.
W,.y
cultiviito loH9 or nim;
II kinds of vegotal)lu>,
1, etc. Barley was cut
lainod of ii Hcaroity i,|
to six miles from i\w_
in^ a north-west couih
he Touchwood llili^m,!
his way to the Black-
lit: "The country is
for dinner at Crowfoot
tolling hill8 with deep
/. Stipa, Kloeria and
•y seen yet. For two
ed up a ravine to the
away from the creek,
•ossing its bed, which.
The seam was six feet
rought an armful of it
ed with a clear flamti,
ore pieces on and it
9ra were left."
209
" Hotwocn the crook and tho lilac! '. ., Cro^Hingisu wide Htrotch of roiling
praii'o which would make good agricultural land if not too dry."
" Ogilvio moasurod the river at the crossing and found it to bo 220 yards
wide, with an average depth of 3J foot, with a pi-otty strong current. We
crosHcd it this afternoon (August 27th), and examined Mr. French's grain liold.
Ho informed us that the grain now ripe was sown a month too lato, not hoing
in until Juno (Jlli. Oats ^tood four foot high; harloy was very good ; but wheat
was short in the straw, though the grain was very fiiio. His i)easha<l boon cut for
some time and woie now off tho ground. Tho greater part of tho tiold had been
broken out of tho prairie sod last Juno. lie has also four acres of potatooi and
two acres of other vegetables on the high pn'irio, six miles further south, and
they are inore ti.an tir.>t-class. I had thought from the appearance of tho
grass that the climate was altogether too dry," but French says there is all the
rain necessary to poi'foct the crops."
" Outside his tiold all was diy and parched; inside, whore the soil was
broken, tho grass was green and luxuriant, (irass which outside bore no seed
and was very short; in tho ploughed field, vied with tho grain in tallnoss."
"Numerous outcro|)s of coal occur at this point, and tho coal has boon burnt
in stoves by Mr. French for two winters. Tho stoves used are the old-fashioned
self-feeding ones, lie speaks very highly of its heating qualities. Tiio coal
here o(!curs in connection witl: brown hematite as it did on Red Doer Uivor."
" Much tine timber occurs in the river valley below tho crossing, which, if
cared for properly, will last for many a day. Not a bush or tree is "to be found
between tho two rivers."
From the crossing, Mr. Macoun passed north-oaslorly along Bow River out
of tho sectioti, and says: —
" Two miles over tho valley brought us to tho ascent to tho prairie, which
we found to bo pretty sandy. Wo travelled for eight miles over this plain, with
generally a rolling country on the right and a range of low sand hills on tho
left, which filled a largo bond tho river made at this point. After crossing tho
plain, wo descended over 100 foot into a largo valley, bounded on tho right by
the prairie blull's, and far on tho loft by tho river. Five miles over tho plain
brought ns to camp on the riverside. The river valley contains some fine
timber (Balsam ])oplar and Cotton-wood) suitable for house building and for
rails. The land at camp is excellent, and tho whole country on both sides of
the river is suited for agricultural purposes."
Soe also Appendix Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
5^
113 Macoun Exploration, 1879.
Mr. Macoun passed north-westerly through the northern part of this section,
on his way to Calgary, and states as follows : —
"Started lato, and travelled through a very fine country for 16 miles. Soil
sandy loam, of first-class quality ; not an acre seen to day unfit for tho plough.
We wore never more than five miles from tho river all day, and it could^bo
seen meandering through its valley at all times. Its banks soomod to bo about
60 feet high, with sandstone exposure in various places. For 1] miles beyond
this wo passed over tho same description of country as yesterday,, and then
reaohei a depression, in which lay Long Lake, containing brackish water."
Soe also Appendix Pac. Ry. Rep., 1879.
114
See Appendix, Pacific Railway Report, 1879.
Sections ^^ to -^^j are referred to in Appendix, Pac. Ry. Hep., 1879.
12.'j-14i
210
APrENDIX No, 15.
DOCUMENTS IN EEFEHExXCK TO Tlli-: UUil>GlNG OF liKD lUVKfi.
1
Letter from the Engineer-in-chief to the Minister of Railways and Cvnals.
Canapian J'ao.fk; ilAir.WAr.
Okfic'k ok tub Kn(iinkeii-lv-chief,
Ottawa, 2Uh Soplombor, 187!).
Sin,— Tho letter dated ITth Soptoinbor, of the City Clork of WinnipoL', anl
various other papers on the subject of a bridge acroHM tlio Red River, haviiiy'l)ee:i ,
referred to me, y.m have asi^od me to state my viown as to the feasibility of bndL'in '
the river at the point detei mined upon by tho (Jity Couneil of Winnipeg, by rcsoiir.
tionofthe ICth inst. l fe> J- M
T!,e point r-elected by theCity Council for bridgihA, 'he Rod River may bo the bM
to be found in tho neighborhood of Winnipeg, but there are difficulties which call for
careful consideration. It is only too well known that on several occasions, withia
the recollection of people living in Manitoba, the Jted Ri'-cr has overflowed its banks 1
and flo(jded the ground on which the City of Winnipeg is projected. Tho several
piers of a bridge might, to some extent, obstru- the channel of the river, and while |
■certainly they would not facilitate the discharge, they might, if the site bo injudi-
ciously chosen, retard the flow of tho water and increase tho risk of flooding.
The river does not every year overflow and flood the adjacent country ; indeed, 1 1
learn t'..at it has not done so since 18(51, hut 1 am informed' that recently the water j
has risen so high as to endanger some of the buildings near its banks.
I observe in the articles of agreement made between tho Mayor and Council of |
tho City of Winnipeg and tho Manitoba Southwestern C(»loni/,ation Railway Company,
a clause, of which tho following is an extract: —
" Tho said parlies of the second part (tho Railway Company) shall not be bound
" to take over or accept tho said bridge from the said Government, unless they shall
" see tit to do so; and that in tho event of tho said bridge being swept away or other-
" wise totally destroyed alter tho same is handed over to them, the said parties of the
" second part (the Railway Company) shall not be bound to rebuild the same unless
*' they shall see fit to do so."
This paragraph suggests tho idea that tho promoters of tho Railway Company
apprehend that tho bridge may be carried away by tho floods ; it at least shows their
determination to assume no responsibility in tho matter.
Tho destruction of tho bridge, whatever tho loss, would bo of little account when
compared with tho damage and destruction which would result to a populous city,
on tho site of Winnipeg, in tho event of tho flood watei- rising to the level which I
am told it has reached on former occasions. Anil if at any future time the river
flooded its banks to the same extent, it is not impoHsible that the damage done might
be attributed to the establishment of the bridge and to the obstruction to the
discharge of flood water caused by its piers, uhuttncnt-i and approaches.
I am about to proceed to Manitoba, and I shall, when on the spot, carefully
make an examination and give the whole subject my best consideration. In tho
211
OV IIKD mVER,
jys and Cvnals.
Leaiitimo I fcol it my duty to point out tlio (liRliMillio-i wliiih HUiTOund tho (lucstioii,
LirI Io imliciUo tlio possiblo coiiMO(iiKiiK'cs tor wliicli liio Covornniont might be lield
lliiibie if'llicy uriderlook to iocato uiid (■on?'tiu(it tlio bridge.
I III view of tlioso conwidoi'utioim, I um not at preseni prepared to advise tliat ttie
iGovoinment slioiild asHiimo tho resporiMibility of oomplyiiig with tho request of the
Icity Council of Winnipeg.
I am, etc., etc.,
SAXDFOUD FLEMING,
En(ji7ieer-in-chief.
I The Honorable
Sir Charles Tli'I'kr, K.C.M.G.,
Minihter of Railways and Canals.
Riport of the Engineer-in-chief on the Bridges of Red River.
Canadian PAcuro TIailwat.
Office ok the ENoiNEER-iscniEF,
Ottawa, 8th December, 1879.
j Sir,— I have tho hoi\onr to report on the sovov-al communications, from tho
Mayor and Corporation of Winnipeg, asking tho Government to undertake tho cons-
truction of a Railw y Bridge across Red Itivor, opposite tho city. When the papers
I were tirst referred il- mo, I addressed to you a short I'oport, of date September 24tb,
pointing out that the bridging of Kod Kivcr was a matter requiring grave conside-
ration, on account ot tho vast body of water, which, at time-*, inundates tho locality.
Since I addressed you on the'24th September last, I have visited Manitoba and
made a personal examination of Kod River for nearly ao miles of its course, through
the Parishes of St. Boniface, St. Johns, Kildonan,St. Pauls, St. Andrews, St. Clomentj
and St. Peters. Having carefully enquired into the facts respecting the periodical
floods and tho various local circumstances which atloct the location of the bridge, i
have now to rejiort the viowd I have formed on tho whole question.
When the water is as its ordinal v summer level, the rivor ranges in width from
350 to tiOO feet. It flows in a well-detined channel between banks from 20 to 30 feet
high, and presents to a casual observer no extraordinary difficulty as to bridging. It
teems, at first sight, that a comparatively placid stream, flowing for the most part
gently in its course between moderately high banks could with ease be bridged at
any required point. Investigation, however, brings out certain remarkable circums-
tances which demand serious consideration.
All, or nearly all, rivers in a northern latitude are subject to freshets at tfie
period of the year when winter merges into summer. But on tho Rod llivor it
appears that these freshets sometimes assume the form of floods, and those pnono-
mena are occasionally developed to an ahu'ining extent, and carry along with them
wide spread devastation . i ji i u
During my visit to Manitoba, I was favored with an interview with tho Arch-
bishop of St. Boniface. His Grace has resided in tho country for a lon^' series ot
years, and has had the advantage of witnessing the annual freshets, as well a,s several
of the inundations. His Grace was good enough to atford mo the benefit of his local
experience. In the year 1852 the river overflowed its banks and completely su^
merged tho level prairie for several miles on each side. Tlio water rose 'jnt'l it Ht^ood
at least 3 feet inches above the general surface of tho ground around the Palac^ ot
St. Boniface, and it seemed like a vast lake, extending in all directions, ihe whole
country was submerged from Minnesota north to Kildonan. The site of tho city ot
Winnipeg was <'omi>!ctc!y umier water, and the nearest dry land in that noighDor-
hood wa^at Burke's farm some four miles away. The flooil remained in this stat«
for more than two weeks.
212
After iinintoiTnl of ci-ht\onrs (in 18(50) the livor ni,'ain inun.latcd il« Innk,
covoiiti- tlic Icvol luaiiio, ImiI tlio ovoid. .w was not widcsi.ioa i ■
The following' y.-ar flM(il) ||„.,o was anothor floo,!, wl.cn tlio watoi- ro-H.n
w.t nn lw<. (wt ot tl.o lovul ofiho (Io.kI of 1.5.', overflowing t„ the <le|,ll, ofahoul N
inclii'H a .cry largo area of tlie prairie. ' "
Since 18(;i. tliere has lurn an immunity from any sorious inundation, hut (.n „„„
or two oc.aMons, tj,,. water has risen nearly to the prairie level.
The Hi>hop of KnperfH Land, in his '• Notes of the Flood of !85-i."e^timato,tl,«
.rcadh ot tluMnundaled country at about 12 miles; ,nentions that In.uses and han
lurniUMe and tarm implements, were swept awav. The settlers to,,lc refu.'e on tl«
nearest elevated -rouii.l, Sloney Mountain an.i 'Mini's Hill. The Mishop,"vvill, 1
househoN , escaped m canoes, and passed down the river until ho roa.'hed 'iry laii.| !
the ari>h oi St. Andrews, .some thirle.u. miles I.elow Fort (Jarry. From t'his un,,
northerly he dcsci dies tl,o river as Keing " conHned within narrow iimiis," and wiih
a more impetuous current. The Hishop mentions that at the Stone Fort iho rivlr
was_ ' lunniiig at the rale of eight or ten miles an hour." H.xtracts Iroin ilis L„,l
sliip s join nal t.etween May ;}rd and Juno 8th are appended.
In " The Ked iJiyer Settlement, its I{i>o and I'rogiess," (by Alexander Ro.s) .
worU written .efore tho inundation of 1852, we find an account of an earlier flo.nl nf
which the author was an eye-witness. This occurred in the year 182f;, tho wa't,
rose ahout 18 inches higher than in 1852. and siihmerged a miud. greater area oi i
level prairie. It lasted from tho 2cd ot May to the Ifnh of June.
1 submit a few extracts from tho volume rofoired to —
''The wi^ntor had been unusually severe, having begun earlier and coi,ti„uod
., «'«'• "!'""«•;;• Tho snow uvoraged three foot .loop and in tho woods from fou
to hve feet. 1 he cohl was inton>o, being often 4 .^' below zero; tho ice mcasiaed
favo f'^ot seven inches in thickness. Xotwithstanding all this, tho colonists fdt „o
dread till tho spring was far advanced, when tho flow of w:iter, from tho mcltiuL'of
the accumnlated sn,)w, became ready alarming. ()„ iho 2nd of May, the day
" honr™" """ ' '^"^*''' ''*'"*' "'"" '"""* porpoudicular in tho twoiity-f.„ir
,. * * * * , "On the 4th, the water overflowed tho bankH of the rivor
and now spread so ast that, almost bolore tho ,oeople were .nwaro of the dan^'or it
haa reached their dwellings. Terror was depicted o, every countenanco aud'ho
ovcl wan ho country so rapid tl o. rise of the waters, that, ,m the .uh, all the Net-
tleiH abandoned thoir houses and -.ought refugo on liigher ground
.< „.H f ■ ^'-"f-.'^^'C'T «Jescriptioii of property bocamoof secondary consideration
and wa8 involved in one common wicek, or abandoned in despair. The people had
to fly from their homes for the dear life, .some .t them saving only tho clothes they
had oi. their backs. The shrieks of children, ihe lowing of cattlo and tho howlinj
ot dogs, added terror to the ncene." ****** u jj*
the boats had no resource i,ut to break through tho roofs of their dwellin-s aiij
hus save what they couM. The ice now drifted in u straight course from point to
point, canymg destruction before it, and tho treo^ were bent like willows by tho
lorco af tho current. •'
"While the frightened inhabitants were collected in groups on any dry spot
that remained visible above tho waste of wator.s. their houses, barns, carHiJes,
furni ure, fencing and every description of property might bo scon floating along
over the wide extended plain, to be engulfed in Lake Winnipeg. Hardly a house
or building of any kind was left standing in tho colony." * * * *
u „ ,?, ''■''^°'; f't'niied rising till the 21st, and extended far over tho plains. Where
cattle u.setl to gi'azo, boats were now flying under full sail " * * * *
It subsided of cour.sc, very gradually. It was on the 15th of June that tho hotthm,
lor the tirst time, drew near the sites of tiieir former ba!>itatio!i- "
1 have mentioned that Mi. Eoss's account'of the flood of I8-U, was proparod for
Ihe press more than twenty years afterwards. By that time, the .settlers hud roHUined
in iiiiiiiijatoil itri lianlci
hen till) waloi- iii>(j i^
I) till) (loptli DfaliDiit H
inutidiition, but oij on,,
i\.
t of !R52,"o-itiiniitoMlia
I that, hoiiHi'Maiiil Imrn^,
!is {ni>k ret'iii,'i) (III 1I19
Thi) HisliDj), with hi
1)0 loadiocl dry iaiilJu
arry. From this pdint
iiTuw liiiiiiN," iiikI With
10 Stone Fort ijio ijvor
tracl.s Iroin Jli.s L,i,|
by Ak'xaniJur Rn») y
t of an earlier t\oi<i\^ of
year 18l.'(i, tlio water
iich greater ttroiv 01 iha
lie.
earlier nnd ooiitinncd
in the wooils tVoin four
jro; the ice measured
s, the eoloniHtx fdt ny
or, from the inciting' 0!
2nd of May, the day
ular in the Iwenly-loiir
I tho bankw of the river
I ware of the daii;,'or, it
y eoiintenanee and so
)n the 5th, all tho not-
ound.
3condary eonsideration
spair. Tho people had
1,' Old) tho (dolhesthey
■attlu and tho howling
* * * " ]]y
ke, and tho people in
r)f thi'ir dwellin;,'s and
it com-Ho from point to
lit like willows by tha
on I IS on any dry Hpot
)uses, barn.s, earria;,'e9,
bo Hcen floating along
ipog. Hardly u house
* * s); *
or tho plains. Whore
* SK * *
June that tho settlers,
om."
[8.t», was ])ioparcd for
B settloru had roisumod
213
ijioir land, rebuilt houses andiieon led into 11 funeiol socnrity. They thoiiglit they
;ui seen tho la^t extraordinary rise of water to deluge tho eoiintr\-. Mi-. Udss, how-
ivor, wrote the prophetie words " what htis ha|>i)oneil oiuio, nitiy happen again," and
iie(hre his volmne JHsuoil from the press, ho had witnossod tho iniuidation of IH.'iJ,
im1 added a sepanito nccoiint of it in un appendix.
The following extracts may ho given of an oeciirronco which siihrnorged th»
idility and drove the settlors from their farms from the 7th of May to tho I'Jth of
une: —
* ♦ * * " On the 7th of May tho water had rLson eight foot abovit
the high-water mark of ordinary years, overflowed tho banks of tho river, and
■ liogan to s|)road devastation and rnin in the Hottloraont ; boats and canoes in gre:a
request for tho saving of lives and property; all fiurry, hiistlo and confusion ; some
hail to take shelter in the garn-ts, some on stages, some bore, some there, in littlo
groupw on spots higher than the rest, anxiously waiting a boat, a canoe, or somo
friendly hand to save thoni from a watery grave. From 150 yards wide, the usual
hreailtli of tho river, it had spread to throe miles on each side und rose for several
days at tho rate of nearly an inch per hour."
V * * * " On the breaking up of the river tho channel got choked
up with ice, which caused tho water to rise seven feet in an hour or two. This
occurred at night after the pooiilo had gone to bed, and itcameon them so suddenly
that, before thoy wore aware of it, tliemsolves and thoir bods were aflotit, cattle ami
sheep wore drowned and two men, who hail gono to rest on a smtill riidf of hay,
found themselves in the morning drifting with tho current, some t'i"oe miles from
wliei'o they had laid down the night before. Others again, in the alnem-eof canooH
or other as~istance, had lO resort to the house-tops ; some t')»A to the waior and
hang to the bnuichos of the trees ami bushos, till daylight broiigliL them relief."
■'■ * * ¥ " On tho I'ith, half the colony was under water and had
made aelean swoej) of all fe icing and loose property on both sides of the rivor, for
ailistance of 22 miles in length, in all this extent, ho low and flat is tho country
throughout, that not a single house was excepted — all was submorgod — not an
inhabitant but had fled."
=i= =i« * * " On the 22nd, the water was at its height, and the coin-
cideniio is remarkable, inasinich as on tho same day of the month tho water was
'at its height, during tho former flood, twenty-six years ago: but it was then 18
inches higher than it has boon this year ; still, the people boing fewer, the damage
at that time was leas. During eight days before the ctiange, dwelling hou.soH and
"barns wore floating in a!! directions, liko sloops under sail, with dogs, cats and
"poultry in thoin. Outhouses, carts, carioles, boxes, cupboards, tables, ehaii.s,
Mbathor beds, and every variety of household furniture drifting along added to the
iiiiivorsal wreck."
* * * * "At its height the water had spread out on each side of
"the river six miles, for a di.stance of fourteen miles in length — not a house wa»*
'oxeeptod. Loaded boats might have baen seen sailing over the plains, far beyond
"the habitations of the people. Tho spectacle was as novel as it was melancholy.
"Three thousand five hundred souls abandoned their all and took to tho open
"plains."
* * * * " The falling of the water allowed many of the people to
"approach thoir cheerless homes about tho 12th of June."
Our knowledge of those alarming, and too frequently devastating occurroncos in
limited, yet besides frequent freshets which have caused no groat damage, we And a
record of inundations which have swept over the country in tho following years,
viz :— 1776, 1790, 180!», 1826, 1852 and 1861.
Tho overflow of 1852 is so recent that it cannot fail to bo romembored by all in
tho settlement who shaied in the devastation and ruin which accompanied it.
On at Icafit two other occaaioiis the water ev-vored the faes of the country to a
floater depth than in 1852,.but tho settlors were fewer, and, consequently, the damage
was not so great.
214
Tlio quoNtion may bo awkod : —
f.W 'iV'*' •''■'•''•■'^''^ ^^^'^^ ^^<^^^ resembling thone described will a<rain occur?
(-.; II in the ordinary course of nature, ft recurrence be probable, can any moar,«
?inn nlu ' '" '^t '-'■^'"^^If ^mont of the Pacific liailway, to ^uard against theC;
l^lnL ''■"l"-''' .'." "V' '^^'''y- ^"^ ^'^^ ««"«"'' interruption to traffic, wh cV
tetfn^ occlZner? ° '"'"^ precaution, would certainly a'ccompany such deia.
Those nro questions of the gravest importance in connection with the construction
of a thoroughfai-o across the continent, as a great national highway, and I shall
endeavor to answer them. ^'V. '*"^ J- snaii
When recently in Manitoba, 1 instructed Mr. Eowau to collect all measurement.
plans and cross sections which had been made of the river, between the confluence of
In ft n ^"r/?.^^"''° Winnipeg, and to furnish all other data necessa.y to enabl
v«L^„ ' M ''"^"'t"'^' «" the subject, for the infoimation of the Government. Some
years ago Mr. liowan ascertained, as closely as possible, the height the floods had
?h^d"strict!"*^ '""■^'" ''^ '^' "^''' ^' '^^^'^'^"'^ P^"°^«' «'°^° '^' settlement
i«fhT.ir "'°""1 *:4°P*°'* °".^''"^ occasion are described in his communications of the
18th uU,mo which IS attached. It is sufficient to state that the greatest care hL
been taken to obtain accuracy. ^ *'
.K« Jl™"" -^^^ measurements and data furnished, the following table has been prepared
fin . ^h' "I " ''«'"^«r®'^ ^^'•™' "^"^'^ «^ th« «^a«t information which has been
uSnolnf ^•'""'"' '^? ^^"^u''^ ^ ^"'^ ^^^"' ^^' ^' «t'-i''«^ '"^ there aie som
unimpoitantdiscrei)ancies, which can easily bo accounted for and allowances made.
i^ill a<,'aiii occur?
:jbablo, can any meaii,,
•d against the dcHtrno.
ition to traffic, which,
jcompany such devai*.
with t ho construction
highway, and I shall
^oct all measuromonts,
raon tho conduonco o(
ta necessary to eaable
3 Governraont. Some
eight the floods had
ice tho settlement ot"
mmunications of the
le greatest care has
ble has been prepared,
ion which has been
me there are some
ad allowances made.
215
'able shewing the heights above sea level, of the water and bunks of Tied Rivor, at
various places and at dillerent times, etc.
Locality.
a
*S
m
■« s
■♦-» >
B S
O —
|-i
Hbigut in Feet Aboti
8ea Level.
Miles.
(outh of Assiniboiae
Point Douglas 2
Korth of St. John's Church. 4
liorth cf Kildonan Church. 7
South of Tail's Creek 12
Hear St. Andrew's Church. 18
iboat 2 miles aboTe S. Fort 20
Stone Fort 22
About 2 miles below S. Port 24
Selkirk 27
6t, Peter's Church 31
Lake Winnipeg 40
OS
hi
ex.
a <u
2 I
t'LOOD LxriL.
^ oo
*^ o
.CCl.
£ 1875 1860
1852 1826
I
761
762
761
761
759
759
760
758
763
744
736
73;
732
732
731
730
723
719
oO| 765
• jO
750' 763
750 758
747
742
740
736
718
716
5 ►•
c a.
•a
o
o
«► .
"go
Oh
liKMAKK*.
767 769
767 1 769
7651 768
764^ 7G8
759! 766
751 i 759^
I I
748! 755]
1
742 752
I „ I
737i 748|
732, 738
725 730
37
37
37
37
36
36
6
7
8 I.
33
20
<L l-i
S rn
■§5
CQ
si.s
In attempting to account for these periodical inundations, the first idea that
ttrikes the mind is that they may bo duo to tho rising of Luke Winnipeg Irom some
cause, probably the choking of its outlet by an icejam during tho transition poriou
between winter and summer. 1 1 ii
The backing up of tho waters of tho lake is, however, fully disprovod by tue
above table, an o.Kaminalion of which will show that tho overflowed p.rlion ot the
liver has .stood, during floods, m>ro than 40 foot higher tnan Lake Winnipeg. During
these jjoriods, the facts brought out likewise establish that tho river was an iinpotuouK
torrent for some six miles above and a considerable distance below Stone Port.
Tho table shews further that, at times, the flood-water of the river has stood abovo
the general level of the prairie over tho whole district to the south of Tait s Creek, ami
thatnopartoftherivor banks, from St. Andrews to the lake, has been inundated.
This perfectly agrees with recorded evidence, by which it appears that when the river
overflows its ba.dcs and devastates the country for miles on each side, the inundations
have only oxtemlod northerly to tho neighborhood of Tait's Creek, in the i arish of Ot.
Andrews. That, while hundreds of square miles have boon flooded south of the 1 arisli
of St. Andrews, there is no record of any overflow from St. Andrews, northerly, to
Lake Wintiipi'g. r, • ,-.. u- u • r
Tho e.Ktiaordinary increase in volume of the watei of Red River, which periodi-
'■"llv do^'U-^tnte-i the connirv, has hnen the subject of various speculations.
' Mr. Ross states witli respect to the flood of 1826, that " tho previous year had
" been unusually wet; the country was th )rouglily saturated; the lakes, swamps and
216
« wa-m wn. 1 '""'•^" '"■'? ^^'"t"'-- Then came a late 8,)l•in^^ with a Hullen bS .t ol
« Tlt^-lTi n:; ^.!n . Tj"r'r\^''";! ^^""'T^ ^''' ««^«''=^l days i„ Huccossioa ; the J
inontiono?37K'"-'' ^'^" ^''''"''-''" ^""''itions are different, and any one of the caused
Ty tin^^e wS in .n"'"'^,'T">V" •"'°'^r° "^"^^ ^'^"^^^'•' ^'^^ '^ combination of them
anv ™tMr ' W •"■°':i^'»''"y' '^^'''t in as great a discharge of fro.het water as 3
Zv mm ;i . ^ T^' ^''"r **"'"""* ^''^' ^'^« superabundant flow of water, buts „, ]
•omain , \ ..'i;'^""'"^ •" '^P'*^ " ^\'' '^i'-""«tance that the waters acnin uh o ^
lx.voat^hf ,vm Sn "^ ^'!?/'"""^'-y l^^t^vcen the inundated district and the Ink.
A , o ^.on u " '?\* J '""^ necessary to account for the widespread overfl.,u- '
.oft and vieT in h"-"^ '""l ^'"»',P%' ^^i" observe that the banks of the river are of ,
ihi .1 3 .elding character, easily acted on by the elements. They are of clav In J
iKS,;: r?onf T'' ^•'^"•'^^'^•- «f :i-r--d. They are 'Xct to sS anl
Sof infMli' ;. ^".^'\"'^?q"«"^'e of the constant changes that take place J
asthi ;i;r hanks, has taken place within tU
he rivvi d;. ^'" ''«'-,«:^"'"fe'e'^ have occurre.l at many places along the course o?
S Htmn " ; 1? 1''" '""^'«'"««'t«"d yielding, on the contrary, they are tin
Gen I'll n ^x''"l '"l^ '"'■'^'''y '^ '«^^-'« «^' »'"^1^ P'-e^enls itself. "^ i
Fort tie in.'] f'l""^ \ '•' ", ^Ti" "^' ^^- ^"'J™^^^' ••^"'^ for some distance below Stone
mncVindicr I r'"^ ''''^V^\"^ ^"^''^ ''^''"'""^ contracted, and its appca-
s Wl nSn fu J.'f ■"'"''^•'^ '^ ''>^"^° *^'^'^'^ P''^^*^ f™'" y*^^'- to >-ear. Indeed, it
b™ a ^ vt tvn r. " P"'-t'«" «f the river is practically the same, in sectiomU
Andiws''maS''!Hr'l'''rf ?r' -^^ the river channel, through the Parish of St.
he lis ; fnd b ;• ''f f,'"' ''i PT°^' ^^^'^^^^^ ; *h° immediate co.^sequonces are
become^ M b^l. '? "riTi °* '\^ flood water, until the whole country to the south
SeT modaSnf ''^r''^ '^^ "PP*^'' '""^ "^ ^^o submerged
of the wi n r .. ""°^''"'' 'T'^' '''"•' t''° in^P^tuous current described by some
remark , bio ,h-;.u". ?° ««"tracted chatmel, at and above the Stone Fort. Another
iTou ; tLeJwhofsf TY ^' mentioned. ]t appears that when the channel
cortan .v?l ,f .; • fV'**''«^\« becomes gorged, and the water backs up to a
W nni ut '^'^"^-e the pnur.e to the south, the flood water finds an overflow to Lake
sion kSn . ,V"' r ^n ''^''^T\°^ ^^''^ ^'^*^'' bypassing up Tail's Creek toad epres-
Hccou t b io no, ".^^"^'' ""'' ''Tf ^y ^"'^"y ^'''^' '^'''•'' ""tural overflow will
Hccount toi the non-submergence of the country north of Tait's Creek.
i-al meins wh'lh'T ^^(3 foregoing, that the inundations have been produced bynatu-
0X0^1 I . 'on. ^^V- .'" ^'''''"'' ''"'^ ^^""^ "' t'^^ ordinary course it nature we may
occui; n luT "n • T T'^" *" P'"°^*""« '•'^■■'"•t^ «™"»'- 1« those which havi '
flow its b Ml 1^' . It 'r f"ti'« to assume that Red Eiver shall never again over- 1
Snove n;.„ ?; '^'.-tto'ly powerless to prevent its occurring periodica ly, and
tTirmr'.is.rn 'i ."^'^ ^"' ^' i"tcnsiHed in proportion to
the inueased number ot inhabitants within tlie submerged district. '
nillvwI;irT.\ *''•'' >''° I"'''*' "•'^"'"''tances should be known and most care-
h s J. of(t d , 'Vr"''.'F the proper site fnrour great continc-.tMl lin. of railway
xienco whi''^ >^- '^" '^ ■''^ consideration, or regardless of the local expe-
Jienco which has been gained by many now living, we were to carry the Railway
luantity of snow haj
h a HuiJilon burst
lecossioii ; tho snoJ
Travers (soiiicesoi
of water : — A \yo|
lakes and satiu-aleJ
inter; a sudden bar J
any one of thocauHcJ
mbination of thorn aa
)f fre.shot water as h9
w of water, but somol
-ors acinimulate ani|
of 40 feet above llio
i strict and the lakj
lesproad overflow.
)f tho river are of
Iicy are of clay, but
lubjeet to Blides ai
that take place,
sn place within tl
alon<,' the course of
ho character of the
rary, they are firn
self.
istanco below Stouel
ted, and its appoa-j
to year. Indeed, itl
same, in scetionalF
any miles, that noj
the Parish of St.l
or- way prevents the!
.to consequences are I
onntry to the south j
of tho subinergodl
described by some j
)no Fort. Anotherl
when the channel!
'ator backs up to a I
in overflow to Lakel
'a Creek to a deprea-
atural overflow will I
oek.
n produced bynatu-l
B of nature we may
» those which have
never again over-
j periodica ly, and I
J in jjroportion to
vn and most care- 1
\\U\\ lino of railvr'uy
of tho local expe-
jurry the Ilailway
s
R
^1
11
i
1
I
V.
I
t
WINNIPEG
aS'w 6/fitf'fjfrfy c/r.v
o/* J'rtiirie
-tee
' t
IS
Jjonffitadinal Section
f!j Red Miver J rem the C
•^'icu,n^ Nubrnert/ed IJi,stHct dun
PHOIO urn BV IHt BURUHtl LIIH CO MtlHTRESL
Plate No. 6.
-^_..
.-. -Opntrncfvi/. f7hirnr,ef nU?,
.__«?.
1
.is
I
40 MILES.
/ Miver- y-rcm the <-,>,/ .,/' Wmnipecf (a Lake
Wfn
n
i/jff/
,r*
f
H
t
a
I
I
t
1
i
J
I
i
f
I
nil impi
norit in
l'i)Ul(t I
iinmcdi
discluuv
to oven
nccun-e
On
that isot
t''0 eoir
to the r
pasttage
which' c
fhould 1
and St.
In
tlian th(
In:
c'omo h}
should 1
be so sii
the rail
Re(
allow vi
the rive
Th.
difficult;
ing on t
Moi'eovi
bend.-s ai
last tun
com pa Pi
Wh
the rive
peg. Ir
will assi
localily
under tl
the who
the po-K
Till
with lea
its erect
river llu
branch 1
the land
are in n'
that the
have no
the open
Coh'ille a
for the V
21T
icroMs Rod Eivoi- nnywlioro in the ilislrict miljjoc^t U
> iniiinliiiioii, vv(( mi 'I
Kiid a (iiizcii iiiile:< of'tlio
dies swopl away, and trailic stopped tintiV rii(rwiioy,riKr n^H^niMl' '1s^
i( an}' year
ino for a month or more Huiinmr^'od, il,,) l,ridL'(^^ and annroa-
.,uonco.s mi^ht follow ,f, to avoid the flooded di.in.l, wo bridK.-d Hni Uivor at St
AndrowHorStono Fort where during Hoasons of oxlromo l,i«h wato- ti,e ntream i^
an impetuouM torrent. It woald not bo easy to plant pic-, that w.n.ld prove perna^
,u,nmsu.h a position without maki,,g thorn ononnou.ly oxpnnHlve. and no piers
jould be built without obstruetaig the v.ator-way, already too eon.racted. Tl o
■ mmedia'o consequence, of stdl further narrowing tho outlet won ,1 b, to impede tha
diseharKO and pievcnt the easy escape of the water, thu. increa.in^Mhe tendency
t..overt!ow up steam involving serious questiouH of damagoH, whenevor u disasier
1 f\^\' HI I t ' I ■
,h.u ?o.' ,r'i"' ^^'' '^''/i'''' '".'•'':'^^ '''';!""' ^"<^^''^'"" ^""' wei^M.in« every consideratiou
that hoe.n, to contro the selection of a point for crossing |{ed Wvw, I am fon'cd to
t'.o conviction that the main line of -he PaciHc Railway should pas/ai, s.H.ie distance
to tho north of Stone FoiM, where the banlcs reco ie and allow ample space for the
passage of flood water The bridge shoul.l not bo too near the fo'.i ,/tho ci rre,?
which emanates from the gorged channel between St. Andrews .,n.l Stone Fort It
^houh be m comparatively sull water. I find such u loculiiy between Sugar Point
and St. Peters, within a distance of f)ur miles. ^
In li.Ning on the precise point of crossing, other coUHidoratioiH, less important
than those above referred to, demand some attention i a lu
comobyuatei from Lake Wnimpcg and tho rivers and streams H .wiiig into it
should not be lost sight of. In order to accommodate this trulllc, ihc railw7.y should
be so smiated that steamers and sailing craft may easily bo brought side by ido w h
the railway cars during tho whole neason of navigation.
.ii,..,r"'^ '^V'''.'''"''-^'^''''''''''','^°r'^''^""^^''^''^'3'^«'^P'''0'n'l''> T^^ilt" to Stone IA,rt to
allow vessels to pa ^s up to the latter place, but above Stone ["'on, owing to ranids
the nver is not navigable for lake craft, at low water. " ' '
The river at Stone Fort being in aconiraoted channel, it would bo a matter of
fnfon ,^, wT^ "'' nvl-tracktothoship'sside,andimpractieable, without enc oic !
ingon the water-way, to tmd space for piling lumber, otc, and traiisferrincr car-ocs
bonds aroimd Sugar Pon.t, is not well suited for the use of Hailing ,.rafl. From the
last turn in lie channel below Sugar Point to tho lake, tho <,o„,sn of the rivoi U
comparatively straight and can with greater ease be navigate I by craft ot all sr.rts.
Wherever tho railway forms a convenient connection with Iho deep water of
tho uver, that point will practically become tho head of navigation of L;lke Winni-
w^fln/Iir'''''''? T'' ''''■7.^"'^"'^''' ")'•■'"= "P"'''^ t''" ''''"' "" I in, town site
Z'n^ 1 ■f'.''^ ,P-T'"''f'^'"?''"'''''''^^'- To the north of Sugar Point, in tho
u, do ■ it^,^ f f ?n""?' '-' ^^"'^' ''^' "'"™ '^^" '-"'"^ ""''^^ ''""""^"^ ungranted and
undci the control o the Government-this is probably tho only block of land alontr
he IK ' .s iT^f h'' H t' ^^,r'- 7'''''h has /.ot paJod into frivale lulnlls oi Intl
itio po-session of the Hudson Bay Company.
wi.bTii'/n','"" ?'''''•' "*'''"]'^ f,"""'" T *''° "^°'"' ^'""'^ "■ ^''''''K" '""y I'" constructed
« ,! ai'P>'ehons,on as to the .safety of the structure in time of floods, and where
its election could, under no circumstances, involve questions of dama^res. Near tho
bmnc 'rn^.r''''"'' /""'; '^f "'■ '"'"'• ^'^''-''' ^"" "'V^ilylHTeacTiodbyashort
tho u d In ")'['" '!f "i''"''^^'"y ; .«'""« l'"'^ i"l«t, and l^otween it and the river
iro ; n ' ' "'' ''''^'.'"''f *'''■ '' f P'«L""'^ Pili":,' K'-o'i"'l. VoHHols lying in the inlet
that be 1 ?? '■'I'"'^'"* ^" '^'^'"'''«« ^'■"'» fl[>"'^«; i° proof of which, it may bo mentioned
that the Hudson Bay Company have used it as a place of Hhoitor for years past They
have no land, or buildings, or other property here but thoy have fbuu m safotv iS
ibr the winter in^th;!;;iet;whS;Sdon;: tlTSl^l^t'^r o?' i::;;d" T^^
218
't ■
"^-^r^p.^^^^^^^ -o.teH„, .Hipp., .
«nJcavuur,Hlt.>laybc'r(.n3vou I am rmf n ?' ""^' «""M '^^ ^''O I'l^lH 1 have
etr.uMurowouUll.oHcrioiJi^'^^S any point vvl.oro tl.o proposed
judKo. I an. ntron^Wy ^opini oV ha^ o E^^ ?[ T''''^'' "« -"" ^««
tho . iver ^o.novvl.o.o l.etw[r S ,u I Point m? < m""'^u ^" ^'^'"'"'"^ "'"'"^
blo..i< of Guvon.ment i,u Jut Solk^^^^^^ '''"' "'" ''■•"*^'"^' '^'^^^^ »>" «° tl.«
1 have the honor (o be, h'w,
i'o;r obedient servant,
SANDFORD FLEMING.
The Honoiiiiible En<jiiieer-in-chief.
Kir Chakles Tuppeii, K.C.M.G,,
Minister of Railways and'Canals.
Mtes of the Flood at the Bed River, in 1852. By the B,sh.p of Rupert's Land.
EXTRACTS.
lower iinrt of fl,« \o ;.,-i • "■'"^"' ^^""'>^u uisuueis ; it anectod u i>
untouched ^^" ^"'^'«"''* ^ud tho Indian Sottlement, wore almost
throulr?h?whdronia!rh^a^ni^ ^'\ ""^'^ ''^^ ''"'^ «f ^^^ruary, but
.ientl!^ to account fb/ttprosoSe'' "' '""'' '^'^ ''^"^"' ^^'^^ -o-eZ-ffi-
S.^uU^^I:rr ?r^t^n ™ ---'^-' by the. very «light rise during
tho night, but from 10 a.m. till 2
p.m., the water gained so fast as to lead to very
painful foi'ebodirnr« Cinma k ,„ ' ' '"." » ^-v* ow j.iau tin lu jbuu lo very
inmates tent k' of the lUUo vZu\TT'^J\''' ""? '^''"^"^^ abandoned, their
right throu.rh his house F..nm Ik i'"f ^? ^'"'•' "^ «"° ««"'«^' ^^"^'"g » l>'»tean
houses may'bo seen? ^' ^^'' "^^ ^''^'' ^^""^ ™«'-« ^^^^n «f^y 'ie^orted
giving'^ay.^'""^^"^' "^ *° ''^^ '^''''' '^' ''^S^t very distressing. The bridges are all
of thf ife"''""'^"'''''''^' "'S'^* ^'^^"^ '•"^'^ commenced, the first since the breaking up
F*vt^Vof^^oZZt'\^ Company pass down; sent for security to the Stone
every dfre'L? Ee™ Lo' ,1.'"^ ^"^ BWimming the creeks, now swollen to rivers In
Moumain tlecoakinrsorrofr'^ ''""^ ^^""^ goin^ to tho Little
down the river! ^ ^^^ wheels js melancholy to hear. One stable drift.
«till Siug/^"""^"''"^ "" ^'''^'''""' *" ''"^^ '"^"^ ^"^ ''*^'' ^'^"- :* * Water
at Po
had h
Ibrcot
Thop
corn 01
have ^
from li
II
whore
Tl
Tl
moved
walked
Hwum (
Th
jnnctioi
upon uf
Mc
any pic
■■^tandim
Th(
were mi
had floa
'>y the CI
Al
swept a\
npoko of
7ui' m'a a
We;
Mot a ere
raft. B,
May
% gardt
plot for e
May
viewed th
death. T
if death of
and the w;
the house,
Mai/ ]
but HtiU'co
place for tl
'hreo inch
Nomewhat i
I weather ?
The ne
wreck, in m
to rescue at
May U
8aid, "Jfeci
soon after fi
through the
We wer
strong curre
I'efuge at Mi
3ltenng shipping in
coriHidoratioiis, in
y tho lactH 1 Imvf
iio Govortiinoiit to
loro tjio ])ropoHO(i
:iori to traffic might
which no ono can
bo carrioJ ucrosn
1, iind llio circutnH-
jhouid bo OD thu
IMING.
ngineer-ln-chief.
Rupert's Zand.
limost with everj
ot, It was perhaps
Uppoi- Fort"; it
)d a good deal the
of yt. James on
)nt, were almost
of February, but
ich seemed suffi-
ight rise during
as to lead to very
abandoned, their
I" taking a bateau
m fifty deserted
le bridges are all
3 the breaking up
ty to the Stone
en to rivers. In
ing to the Little
One stable drifts
* Water
corner of iho churehyanl i.nd Un iM ' .-■•' ■'"-
Ss2:"i:?ili ^-^^r;;;- S;r,.,;:;™..;;r :^;- "-r-' -
, "''•''';»«( ™«r2;rri; ;:""■•""'■'■:;'" "'■"^i^s ™''^ •'•""•'••'
milkd ,.M,t ,|,t,C.l, , r- "'° ""■""«" ""'loi- w Iho n, ■ ?1 "", °u "" "'J'.'!™«».l.
Thoy were distressed ;t tin.v ^"""^ *"»®
were most nuinfni ti i '"^' "'^'^o^ui'i'oundod wifh fi,„
hy the current ^ ' '^'^ '°''"'''«'^' «'««> the loss of many othei Tn',^' '^' ^anadions
...f „!-5 ^--h-n called on m. ,..„... ... ...' '"''''' ''"''' ^-"
wn
""d the wird wl V ° "^.'P'''" ««ttlement ? Tho ,',4 , ■ h A"'''''7^ ; what couM I do
hi-eo inches dean wr S ^'^ ^''"^ I'mycrs in (ho ki c .n ', '^'"'^ ' "" ™«ting
somewhat alarmc, wS"*' ^"^""tation this ono nil p ! '1'^'''''^'"- '" the- water
weather '/ "''""''^' "^^'^ '»»^^t ,t have been for tiS L ni HeVJI^'r''^'^^^ ^ ^^ ^« felt
The I f " "^j'ostu to the sovcritj' of the
...■1 -^i.:^/*-""* •' b"'^ . fo '.'''.he "Ji:;," "?.';! ""• •" ' h";:,, '"" '"" """•
g «' M,. Taylo,... „t„., „„„,,„,„„, ^««',„»___h.'^ pa*lln, w« ,.„,,,,,j ,„';
■^iter dinner I
!^Hi(
220
iti^
)■ 1-'
tulinKHofu,ii,ni„isho.ii.isr" "'"" "'""' ^'"^ ••'>""nned tho go.,,!
a.,cct .... „.e .,..,.,0 or May. N..„ .:,'.; t!;-;!: r;.:^ ';r ^;; e;£';s
Mi Irom tho tentnarouml; on one oeouHion us many I!h thin;.
children buini,' tiikcn
five.
An ovidont docroii
.inue. « ,„o .r «:: ir ;!:?;';r',i:;;:-;:n;L>^'Svr'i^>- ,:-' "
i,ro„„r,vl«l;on,i,.w^^,t.,^,'i;l.,.■'^.''',°,.°l:'''':''« "■"' '-"l""'"! ";■•■ '"aM,.,,,, ,„■,
Monday
presoMt,
liavo to
Mir
fof more nIiohM
hiiilod my canoo, info wi.idi I iimn^l „! ' ' • '^ ' *^''- '^"'"'"'" ^" '■'''^'"■". ''"*'
boins on .l,.j. I»n,l iJd ^iojing a I tl ,wl"„7,ir:^ '" '■"'""■"'■« ,"■« ""I'S"'"''
001- li-ionds could illord l)loa«uro« wliicli iho unnroaj lod kinjiiesa of
not.:I'^?;a;ar]ru,o"';^nnlr'flS"rT; '^^ •-i«''t. "'. U.o whole, is certainly
channel of tl/orveiU deep"!- aK^^^^^^^ i^i'l "'""", "'«''^''°" ''"-■''«^; ^ut, as thi
flag \
niont
i
a bctt
day vv
J
wo sai
Tho !•:
down ;
floated
tho do.-
walors
ill
tho cui'
wo had
and lia
iJiipids.
Th.
at tho I'j
M,
some |)h
Ml,
twenty i
Mil
agalloj)
them ohl
J-*ocomhe
Mai/
lo survey'
^■'•om liill)
Miy
on awakii
(•'lurch, 01
had now i-
May -c
tiome time
dotorminei
Mai/ 3
tlio flowoi- 1
month.
June hi
<'reek boats
June 2n
''If't. and lai
of tho boatH,
June dn
■"vith regret ■
"ow is the 1
earth ahouid
Andrews a.wj
. June 'ath,
*''sit down dt
li^}'
iptniii Hill fitui tho
mitirmeil Iho good
I us to v.xpcv.t til,
tvs — a most wintry
roof, fonialoK and
JW many an thirty-
; for, httil it cori-
li'otn our nresont
would jot liuvo to
i> boat-load of (Mir
ly for nioro should
rocoodod on liorsy.
ido Iho nec'c>*Hurv
n. Iho north wind.
1 Htood lor ^orvif'c.
poiisioiiorH, thoir
>. In j>asf<ing tht;
I tlio current was
of May— tho inosi
B quadrangle, and
faslc'd with Major
to my own house.
r(diyard galo, and
nil) Iho current ot
head ; and after
(or to return, and
;h ( rod's blos.>5ing.
)r our u.so above;
:;li., and the house
>i oak had floatcnl
'ted at tho los.s of
ling tho delight of
iiried kindness of
d ; we scorned to
both sides of tho
1 to thfl ground ;
'on i)loughs wore
^ dr^- feeling tho
aged in ciouring
own district was
uway, with their
lide of the river
lolo, is certainly
ehos ; but as the
1 enlarged, there
lad sunk an inch
Ht beautiful sail,
ly of which tho
"- -'ostructK! i;:',;"-^' "f thom ':t:£::X ;;-: to secure it til ^^^ nSir'
waters had .e.i.Jr^'^ "' ^'^ Water upon then?' ''?,;«;-''' water. «,r,wi''S:
^, Heie (at I'arks Crock I ir "''''' "^l"'" wJion th
a gallon unto ti, r- , '"'^ '"■ little I'ofresMt.., • , •'
''Omo iimo whotl.M,. '^"«««W— A. morn n^ of p„,.„ , *= '^
witht"" ^'•'^-S^-'^'-tea from St T«. " ' ''"'''"^" *^'' '''« 'Jo So
222
./««'' 7M-Soonnftor we hml .lined, T«tarto.l off l.ycnn.m f„r my own 1, o .„
ontm^whu.h r not,..o, as novel was tl.o ^.yr.unlU nF.lay in fVon. of tl... hen
the peopio wore shovoUmif out the mud lotl within froni ll.oiiTl.iMinov. V. I I;',.
way «|Ml MiloM in. We were lute in rom-hin;, the nppor niuU , V,, ' ."^^^ 'n'',
near th.| honso we wero -o ovegoyed at the n^ht ofll'.o .tubhie Holds, v i. uj J
drytothoeyo, thatwouelormin.idto try the i,in I and make a .s.orc'.i'r '
^ZZS^^! ''''''' '"''''"''' "'"''"« ■»' "-'^ «^n> that we\unrdX. in Si
hi!
Jieport on Bri,lgin<j Red River by Mr. James IT. Rowan, District Knjineer.
\ 1!:'
'i
Canadian PAciFfo Railway.
Manitoba District Knuinreu'h Ovncz,
WiNNiPEU, ]h h Noveniher, ISTK
I.on then ;r,ven, un.l other, which I thought desirable, in m-d?. t m.lu 1 ., m '
river are ..hown by figures in circles on the ,)lan), ice or ^w water eveT . L 1 • i"
which llio level waa made too high at that point ^ ^ " ' ■>
which •n.c''.ll''v' f "TT^ '" "'■^"'' '" 'i^^'''" "c^eurately the water leveln now -^i von (and
whu h aic all reduced to a common datum of" >*ca level " according, tn il. . ,.. A
rec ions ,n my possession) was us follows :_A sorierof B M V woro " Ml 1 i "'';
I shall therefore „„lj. call your .t,o„ti„„ to .orae general fuel', iTea,?,,^ Z ZnS
<ormei
"f Wat
causes
tinioN (
this 80:
L'.xtont
'i'oshoti
Ov
tifty yo
some ur
Th(
I ho wos
at Nolkii
Abe
''wamp i
I'oyin to
"'0 lake
''uo, umo
(lowing
i'llo the J
, Whil
lj'^>iindary
'Jt-'on Hoen
Jt is
'li'to, that
to prevent
"'oy cit) no
l'f>ints bct\
years ago.
' have
•ind my oj)i
'filiation of
as wo have
iJnd. V
"» tho I'ivor
-di-d. A
^' t'oun (ry -,i
• my fiwn linii-io to
" * * Tlio ,.I,i,.f
I i>f' till' homos, iin
iiinoyHliiiviti^'jLfivoii
»nt, but on >,'iittinj(
M-i, which iippoiired
H Mhoi't t!lU iicrois.
(iurik dooj) ill i|,„
'rlct I'Jn'jineer.
t'M OFFICE,
Dvoinlmr, 187!».
plan of Bed liivor,
:r with a lon^^'itudj!
ons at tho hovornl
orahio for a railwny
oino of the in forma-
ion, to the intorfui
) m:il<u tho rauLlcf
ho cauBO of my not
of tho ground fit
1 tho banks of tho
II- iovoi, tho hii,di-
1, boeau-io ho fur as
oar; but it may bo
from 3 to 8 foot ai
jrof 18iJ2, aclerifiil
you yours a^'o, by
3iH now^'ivon (and
g to Uio latoHl oor-
3ro ostiibliisiiod al
i^ith thoHO on tho
[lodmun, fuMowinfj
tho noighborhood,
H'l< to which the j
J to wlio pointed
»vo!, and in most!
•wod at oach point
btaincd of tho il,
d tlio point C, thej
re ordinary II. W.|
yourself, it is uotl
Jliy in Lhib roportj
Ing on tho subject I
- oi ,i milosabovo ".St a,J. " '" "^'^ m diamotcr Ti • '•' '""' "bovo It
-■•""act whb n " ""'""'■" -"■ tho -lu.. „i "' '"'"" i' ''an
»™mp in(„ lied Rvor V '"■''■ '''"'''» C.wk a |,,. , >V,„n,p„g .
;'•■"«. ""'tils'::",; "'■»" '-ij .» ..'itf r- -"" liv/ng ;,l;'.'° "■'■'"" '■*
1 »>->
224
' I'i
\ i-^
i ■!
1^ li
to ciuisc a fldotl I
loro, lint i;,o wIioK
.^"y "MO of 11,0.,, evont.s i.s not .Hullicion*
■-■..mtno-u.ovtli,.,. would, luidoiiljtccily
«M,m ohMru..lio„,o (ho flow of^vvUo ins icon ho\-l 'Tl" ^^'''l^''' ^i'"'«^>- ^'o pri.,-
^1='.. l.u l.a,| soon tl.o il>^^nZ ^mi^-i^^^^ f '''" «^""« ^'^'t «tal J
tlio oppo.MLo HlM.ro. ^ ' ll't inoi at that point as to prevent hi.sooin ••
«lj-oam. ' ''""'' ^-^'^"'' -'t 'L'-i-^t. Ijy ob.stnictioni further dovvi,
'Jlic'io are a lar-o luimber of buiMin.w .V„,i ' , ^V ^^o surroiindin<r country.
y.uinuractorio.son (his love O t w f n ^^ a number of the principal mills an.l
l.i«l. wu.or has boon jj" p (^ t ^ ~?'ur;^f'"^ ^'"'"r '^ ''^''^^ ^ero, Jhj
would have inundated this portion of tlccih nndS'.l"^'' '^'^^^ ^^Witional' ri.o
];^f^}^!^^^^^^^^^ aj.in rise to the
would Kive rise to Horiou'^ claims for damX4 This ^nf "'' "^ \^' '''''''> ^^^ich
H.deratiou alto^odK-r thai, such a am of 'ico Jc^ occurT."'"'"' '«''^>"r' «»tof con-
inundat.ou of that portion of tho ci' v 'tandin^. ^nTl^. ?• ^ "™,''' '^""''^ <^'^'i^<? the
"ow jam to some eitot,t at this point evory yfar ^ "' '"''"'' '"^ ^''" ^^^^ ^^^''^
""'I an'^llba;:^;;;,^ Smed Sitr'tl of ^7--r'^«^ ^-""« -J I^'-oadway
water sho.d.l rise so as'to civirTh ' c w ^-^i nS'^V!. '^":" ^''^'^l' ^^' ^'^
-used with any show of reason tJuit the b7XTw.wfh\ ' ''''''I™ '^'^"'^^ "o* be
nsc.nhi^'ho.HM>^H, to overflow the cmbL.lSt^^i^^^ "?"' ^''° ^^^t"'" 'I'^'J
-o.ntry, ou both si.les of the nvoV^. some disiani "'"' '"'" " ^'""'^' "^^ «^«'' ^'>«
■o'i.sbei,,^. v<.ry co.s(T •, if no rmpracUc ibirto f '''"'''^ "'™ '•^"'^^''" fa^'<
P'il^^-^yan.l the water ieVel of LaT-rShS/fof r-'V°""'"^'°^^ ^°t^««" the
banl<sorihe river at an.l for some '^^^S' ^^^^^'^^'^'"^ ^''''P''^^^'' ^^^^^o the
toyoher that sailing, vos els co dd not w< Z' "" "'" P^'"' ^'"^^ '^^ '^*^^''> '^"^1 close
a.l.iiliuu, (ho current he.^ is voy^i In v'r^- "f ^'^*'T ''^^ '''^^^''^ ' ""J- '->
ot freight by way of Hudson's^iL is nmv su^ ct ,f .", ''' "*''• /^^^ ^""voya.K.e
connecfou becon.os a vo.y impor^nt Z.' ^^iLS'i:^;^::^:;'^'^^ ^^l^
would n,H'lt;;i!i;.c;V':i:fe,r;;|::;^-\^:'"7'-t l-ger than at the last named point
-across tho vai'ley on file e^t; S of tS r l^r^lTSrop'r;"""""^ trostloio-l,'
i>r water dui'in- floo.is v,foul,l bo ./vol U Li 'i i .^ ',*^^ obstructiui,. tho free flovv
pmtec.ed fro.n Vbo .'• i. n ic^b■^l o n.Umn "cnlw^^ 7^^'^"^" completely
fact, us slated by a,, who we iV. is ^"d/h? ,''"''''. ? "^ ^'^'^ ^''■'*""^'' '^'"-' ^ho
-chos this poij;,, it is ve,y. .^ii^nt::^:^!'; iS^;ioS:^f ^in^^^r^ ''' '''"
Com?
, ''"'1,-1 ,
, Mr. Jj,^.,
'cu' tho int,
'one Port, w
,M'-- «.y,|;
"('■^011 ]Jay ('
"'ATij'A^ J^od J
-"lose Stat
.|- J- Balsi
.;• ,^V^n> Flc
•'• J'-ilmund
j:*' James P
"* -Noi'man
"^■'■J'O'I Gar
,/ "ave ox-an;
'?" "■""•fiin, /;
I'lostatemo
"'/Jiavoarrjv,
'^'««fa(ej b
"t, at a place
"P'^'^c^l «^i'os,sin.,
'ins ill Minnesota,
■'? not ojion up a(
•0, l)iit i;,o wliolo
' appeal's to liavo
I inter the priu.
already rc/orrod
stone Fovt staled
'I'lJVont ii is scei Ill-
ation of a liridge
liat I shall make
site of this city,
13 further down
3 is a triangular
3, towards Point
i(iin<f country,
cipal mills and
reside hero, the
additional ri.>e
3unt of damaire.
sequence of the
lin rise to the
le piers of the
Janiage to the
water, which
^in^ outof con-
'ould cause the
i the ice does
and Broadway,
street, and the
could not be
Lho water had
lid be over the
it, to present a
and the fact
between the
'ses, while the
high and close
lake ; and, in
le convoyaiico
ration, such a
all ill private
named point,
tre-jtle-woi'k,
the free flow
JO completely
ind, and the
time the ice
ize.
2'»i
lyably •
■' ■ It
of
''^eatod here. - "' -"<nk, which has^S;;,'" '"'"'-'■/i-.n t e/V'"'"'^"^"'^'fojV
'T-:^3r---oftheriv; ::'''--^
'■•> '"'• 'iio ex-pen,o of
^ ''t-Miiain. ,1 w-
r 'vniain, dear ,si,.
Vour.s trii/y,
;"^=SSSsSSE-«s«Si^.
J''"&''ner-ii,.ohK.f.
J"- n. B.
I /Report of f/ip 7.^ ■
\ / ^"-^ Engineer
' -^ower Htone
^"--SSS£5°sti^^;f^-...,«,.
^'If^hjes, Zand
:S^
226
It is stated that tho Hudson Bay Company's vessels when moored in the Inlet
at Selkirk, received on one occasion, some injury from a rise in tho water. Thin
may have been tho case, and it tends to show how much the river generally is exposed
to danger at certain times and how important it is to have a place of shelter where
80 little damage appears to have been sulfored. The fact that Hudson Bay officers
have annually wintered their vessels in tho same place, and that their vessels aro
now wintered there, goes far to show that there is no safer winter quarters for them
in the river.
It is stated that tho Stone Fort has never been submerged. This agrees with
•the infoi'mation 1 have already submitted. One witness quoted by ih: Ealsillie
(Mr. McDormott) testilies that the water rose on one occasion to within several feet
of tho tops of the banks. From this it is clear, that at extreme floods tho wafer rises
more than 30 feet. This is quite enough to indicate tho difficulty there would bo in
erecting piers that would withstand the force of the swollen current, and in view ot
the causes and consequences of tho inundation, it would in my judgment bo out of
tho question to augment the disasters, even in the very slightest degree, by piacin -
obstructions in the already too contracted watoway. ^
There is no doubt in my mind as to tho most eligible site for the Pacific Raihvav
bridge, and the documents now submitted oidy confirm tho view I hold, but, fJr
arugement sake, if wo assumed that at tho Stone Fort there exists a site, in every
respect as good o'^ at Selkirk," there are other circumstances which tho Govornmen't,
will recognize t..o importance of At Selkirk there is a largo block of land (over
1,500 acres) belonging to the Crown. In my report of Sth December, I have said its
area is over 1,000 acres, but it is really more than l,5(i0 acres. This block is admi-
rably adapted for a town site and it would be greatly enhanced in value by the location
of the bridge within its limits. At Stone Fort the Government does not now control
a single aero of land, and any benefit to property from tho establishment of the
bridge at that place would accrue to individuals, and mainly to the Hudson Bav
Company where they have l,t50 acres.
I enclose a sketch showing the relative position of the 1,500 acres Government
land at Selkirk and 1,750 acres at Stone Fort which, the Surveyor General intorm-^^
me, belongs to the Hudson Bay Company.
I have the honor to be, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
SANDFORD FLEMING.
(Signed)
The Honorable
Sir Chahles Tupi'er, K.C.M.G.,
Minister of Eailways and Canals.
Engineer bi-Cliief.
S|'=
Copy oj Letter from Mr. C. J. Brydyes to Hudson Bay Company's aycnt, at Winnipea,
aslanj for certain information. ^ j j > ty
Hudson Bay Company,
M.ONTRfiAL, lOth January 1880.
. f -^^^-y" Sir.— I want you to get and lot mo have as soon as possible tho followingj
inlormition: 1st, tho date when our Post at tho Lower Stone Fort was first
established.
2nd How long any of our people now there have been at tho post. ,
3rd Their statements as to the condition of tho river at tho High banks wlieicj
the poit IS. As to the greatest height below tho top of the bank^hat they havej
itno.vn the water rise during the freshet time. Also as to the manner in which the icej
oorod in the Inlet
I the wutei". Thin
;onorally is exposed
of shelter where
udson Bay oflScers
t theii* vessels are
quarters for them
Tliis agrees with
d by Mr. Balsiiljc
vithin several foot
)ods the water rises
there would be in
it, and it! view ot
dgmont bo out of
logrco, by plac•in^'
;he Pacific Railwav
I' I hold, but, f(ir
i a site, in every
tho Government
)ck of land (over
ber, I have said its
lis block is adini-
due by the location
3S not now control
ablishmcnt of the
1 the Hudson Bay
acres Government
)r General inl'orin-
MING.
rjineer in-Chief.
ifjcnt, at Winnipeg,
ranuary 1880.
iiblo the followini;
e Fort was Jirst f
TOSt.
igli banks wliercl
that they liavej
r in which the icel
'■uns through the fffrn-o K ' ^^^^^^^^^^^^===.1: ■
I want the o.Lt fucls'Sle'verlLT Ue" ''' ''"'' ^'^"^ ••^•
J- Balsillie, Esq.
■Hudson Bay 6ompanv
Winnii •''
Yours truly,
C. J.
UiirDGE.S.
ipog.
- i^entat ^^^nm.eg to Mr. C. .J. Bry,,jes.
Hudson BAr CoMPANT,
Dear Sm,--inin,„^- , 1 Winnipeg, 28th January 1880
«e^erally and not .^the I'f ^"'••■%"t' «'• "ear, the foft "tk TT ^'^ P^'-tios who
•'■■> tk« simple Im^otZt^L^T V", "'■'I' S and MhT '° T^"' t »""
,"ght in the bottom of th«rn«^ " ^''°"' ^^onty feotTloi ^ ' ?°'"° '^ « ^'"all crook
damaging extent, a'ld £'"7"'^''^ '^^ '«^°'- Aat. of'^tf os ' '• -i?"'"'"^ ^''"^''^^hots
'"J"'T. This wil soxllH " "" o^idonco of the ice ovif? ^"''^'"5-^, but not to a
"«^or been suflic e?tlv^.rA°7 «°"<^lu«ively, that the wJn^ •°^' *^«"« ^^^ ^H/^htes?
Hot be there. '"""^ '"^'^ ^^ ^o those b-'uildings'a^rS^;;'--'' J" f^^Jllvt'C
'-Ver been ufy Sv hifb°7 «?"^'"--vory. at"the wJ^r ''^"^' ^«"« tTe" J .-^hrest
lt^%:S:n^^^^^^^^^^^ ^'"'"^-'' "^- t'^oyear...
person now living. "'^"^'°J'y « greater knowledge of Joe ai n ., "^^'f ^'■^«'- «ettlo-
, Ho was emnloved in i ■ • matters than any other
228
and (lK,t during tbo Hoof o '"IS ,1 S h t'""' ^'''' ''•^ "'" '°'' «^ '''«
^.a.s quite fVoo f.^,ni i.uu,dation or dam^ic by ice '^ " ^""''■^' *'^° «'""-'
• do not think there Is anything n.o^-e to' be'.vid on the ...bject.
Vours truly,
C. J. HitviuiEs, Esq., J- BALSILLIK.
Montreal.
lie of
bank-
Fort
f!
i
:
i !
1,
'
f
h
(a) This is 12 years
experience, iLu ex-
traordinary (loods
were before this
period.
(6) This ice-jnm is
reported to have oc-
curred iboiit two
miles above the pro-
posed site of bridge
Ht Selkirk.
(e) This may be
correct, but it does
not appear that a
better place for win-
tering the H. B. craft
exists on the river, as
they still use it and
nave had two vessels
wintered here dur-
ing 1879-80.
(,d) This gentle-
ma* has only been
8ome 12 years at the
Stone Fort.
(«) No man told 8.
Fleming this, it was
mentioned by an old
settler to Mr. Rowan.
One who witnessed
Lower Four Gahry,
Jlud.-on'.s l]:'iy Coni])anv.
Winnij)eg.
and t'h^ broai.in:/;;;'StCL'arih;rp£"^ ^''^ ^'-^^^ °^ ^'- '-■-
^^^^l^SriZ.^'''' n-oh attention, and A-on. per-
can speak autKt;:;;^^^',^ "Jr^n^tS'" t1-" "'"''° ^'^•"'-'
presented, the fl.|iowingTu-e rr.y SaSent's - ""^ ^""^' '^""'''^•^ "^
Fort orin its' i m mediated' hi " 'ZiZ"^:iYT'^ ''' *'>« ^'one
and no sudden i-ise of the water to nnt f T ''™''°" "P gradually
2nd. The hijrhost thTr h In I ^'^^^"^ "'■" ^'''^^n place, (a)
the 24th April^8?6 when it rme'to n f.T.-' ' V^'^ l"^^° ^^'^^ «"
This was Occasioned, noTfJo^Tny jam 'at t^'o itr *''P«^*h«.b^"k.
froma8toppinffofthGiemffl,n«„ '' n' • . ^'i*^ ^^^^ ^^' "ear t, but
Fort and in clofe p ox miJv to £ P' i^'^'/J.u^
the Stone Fort whS-e t ^ ' J^t^s U tav b^ ''■ V'^ '''^ P'«^^ "^•'^'■
or less. (6) "^ '^ ™^>^ "^o ^aid every year more
andt:S\YrioTllndi:„Thro'. T ^Y 'fl' ^«>'«- Selkirk
Selkirk, carrying the ice throSi fhf '!1'^' ^^ the river opposite
damage to our craft which werfhl^i'^''^'''' ?"''"^ considerable
in thf slough on th!; rasr;]dr<;f%t" i rfo" S^'^^TT"^*^^'^
vi^St/ tS- r::^;;? t^Jvr tc/zJ^"^^ - ■-
south, (rf) ** °' ^^ "ood the prairies to the
the'L'noZrrx^eX" t.;iowt^ f ^'^^ banks at or near
simply because Huch'^a thin ' Lfd nS' no.«".T '^'' Stone Fort,
without the water had overflSwrthe banrani" "^ ^T. ^P'""'''
the other shore^«ustLTraThrSo?c.Thr!1lt^r"'(V^' "^
, JO Is this c(
1" With the
foent made re
K the ice fo,
.V'"" after it r
iione Fort ? *
— _ .v..,vc lu luu uifa ^uth. (e)
J<'i-)This and .
|o.is?e°n\. ^^^^«"
irii fi'om any oiio o(
tlio top of tlio bank-
lesH, tlio Stone Fort
ct.
3ALSILLIE.
J/'ukon's Bail Corn-
Stone Fort awl other
' in Chief, C. P. R.
nr Gaury,
Ji>miiuy, 1880.
sill the inioi'Miatioii
! (State of tho rivei-
ion, and from pci-
n reliable sources,
ig your querios a.-i
' Fort for tho last
jam at the Stone
okon up gradually
taken place, (a)
this place was on
10 top of tho bank,
rt or near it, but
3s below the Stone
le oily place near
every year more
nt below Selkirk
ho river opposite
ling considerable
r winter quarters
firk. (c)
Stone Fort or its
prairies to tho
■^'■osa flood*"-?,"!- Cnh \uu^ ,
>».1S /(jii,
(Ni;
:'ifdj)
'■f- during thn n ,
■"'•''■soiialjy
r """1 (hat
' .'im.
^^Af. FLE'V1\
!iV^^l.!^onsm
J«j«'r'af'erit°™"'« Afanitoba •^-,- r
^'^- «. ABELn.
1S80.
banks at or near
tho Stone Port,
ha' ~ happened,
c p from near
'fa - hat point
it! could not see
.uth. (e)
eminff, tbe lieigbt
James Frevph r
^-^OH, Groom to Hud,o„ B,^ ^
,. ^^a^e resided -It fh .. "^ ^•' ^°^^«'- ^^^oit Garrr
'CO rise hin-i, ., ^^'^'^ anv am r>f> • ^ "■^'^ sprinw ^'^^ ntteea
'= "-er the St. _4, ■ -"'f'>''" — -
'■ews ,
it being bro/^
apids. (/.)
2&0
I should think that tho rate of tho ice current doas not exceed
(5) five miles an nour, and this only from tho gW]ng ws,v af the
ice jam belo\*-.
I have r over myself— or Ixsard of any por.Hon e^so— having rte<-)i
the ice on thi- top of tho bank or near it.
Ston? Fort, January, 27th 1880.
his
JAijES X FliKNCIl.
mark.
(Signed) John Smith,
" JOU.\HOWI8TON,
Witnesses.
m
(J.) InMr.B«sii;iv!'j
stateinent, hr- qaotfcg
Mr.McDtirmoit la hf,-
Ting seen tie >viit>r
within several feel of
tbe top of the bauk.
(m) The point
where the jam is
said to -«ke place
appears to be fully 2
milf s above the Sel-
kirk b'idga t;ke.
I, Jsorman Morrito;., of St. Aiiurow parlih, blaokjmith formerly
in the forvico of the Hudson Bay Corajmn'-, du mtike the ii llowio"
statement. "
Have resided at or near the Stone iort, t'nco tho year 1850 aini
h.-ivs'soen the i.-.> break up in the river every spring during tliat
lim'.'.
T iiavo never boon tho water rise higher than fi-om 15 to 2i) feett.
lb J 'Op of 'he bank, (/) and the highesi Jtago of the water has
.y t'.raily Ixien after the ice has gone.
I think the year in which tho water rose the highest was in ISOl,
tije year of the flood.
I have never seen the ice jam at the Foii, nor any nearer than
at Sugar Point three and a half miles below, (ni)
This is the obstruction which causes tho risi at the Fort.
I have never seen the ice piieil on the top u " the bank nor any
thing near to it.
When tho ice breaks up it generally begins in the joiitro of tho
river and gradually drops to pieces.
The swiftest current at this place is about live miles an hour.
(Signed)
MOJIMAN MOREISON.
Lower Fort Garry, )
2()th January, 1880. }
John L. Smith of Dynevoi', in the County of Lisgar, rrovincodi'
Manitoba, makes this day tho following statement :
Ist. iJnring tho year i85j. I was a resident settlor in North Si.
Andrews in this Province. Witnessed the height of water in the
river that .spring, and to my certain knowledge it did not roach tlio|
(n) This level is six top of tho bank at the Stone Fort bv at least ten feet, (n)
fjeiiiigjer than the 2nd. That from tho year 1SIJ7 to the j'oar 1871 I was in 1
r*ipmt 8t*irDoc. 1879! Hudson Bay Company's employ, at the Stone i'ort, and saw tho icei
break up fourteen springs in s accession, c H can salely say th:it|
during that time I did not see any ice jam r Stono Fort, excejiil
when brought to a stand by the ice jam . ., , ^w, ar Point. 1 havj
lived : tho lied River settlement fc ifty- ..- years, aad can stalij
posii' • y, without fear of contradicti i '. during that time M
(«) Perfectly in ac- wtUe i . not overflowed tho hanks <»S bo r;\ ers at tho Stone Fort
cord with the state- nor ha.s any other livinir person seen it, nof have I ever heard tii.i
it has done so. (o)
meats made.
; does not, exceed
h-ing way nf th«
C's>3 — l>avingi*e<.'ii
mark.
C;>)Thi» may be Q-rl 1?..^ ^""^ -=^==^^te:r: -;==____^
27th January, 1S80.
jk^niith, formerly
uke the iYllowiny
the year 1850 and
)riny during that
)m 15 to 2i) feottn
of the water has
^h est was in 19()'l,
r any nearer tluiii
the Fort.
le bank nor any
:he ;ontre of tlio
} miles an hour.
S- ilORRlSON.
iisgar, Province nf
attler in North St. I
, of water in tiiel
did not rcacii tl)o|
bet. (n)
^71 I was in llicl
t, and saw the icel
in sutely say thutl
Stone Fort, excc|iij
ar Point. I liavol
sare, aad can suit J
I'ing that time ilij
at the Stone i"oil|
I ever heard tli.ii
232
Car
Jieu
wh(
Hail
and
otho
APPENDIX No. 17.
R
'juanii
the mi
Canadii
A d„„i„.i„„ or the .„™.al c„»l,ac., entered i„to-„Uh .l,e .a,., and prie..-
for the ,„pplj. „r „„,eria,» a»J execution of wo* on the Canadian PaoiSc Eailw.v
Bince March, 1879, ,o the present t,„,e. A dcc-iption of the con,™.. previoueW
catered into, wi„ be found in the Eopo..„ of Pebn.ar, 1857, page, 383 .o39a, a«J
Of April, 1879, pages 126 to 136.
Tfio
All th
i !
quantity of
, l^^ rails to 1
I '^anadian Pa
Afai
Dat
-Dat(
'-Tlie quar
RaiJa
Fik-bi
III
C
■All the siij
2.JJ
ites and prices —
Pacific Eailway,
racts previously
> 383 to 396, and
"•■" '^prosontcd tlio on, n ""'''^"'"ofit of •{,.,1 A '"'"o". a distance af"si\ • ' '"«
^•'irne of pon (...,. « ' » 'l. uo paid over to tJ.,, ft,,. ''"°' "'" i^iicli
■^ ';i:5sv-„;:i™,-.w.
-^Janufacturor.s '' ^' ""^' ^'^ '>o of tl„'
^«to for delivery ; T^H i^^^, mn ^'
J''« <l"antit;e.s delivered andnrio '^'"•''' '^■"•
»"^rnco.saroa8folJovr..__
-flails... °''^- c'^t- qrs. lbs.
''''«hpIato!sV -'^^^ 5 77
78 19 2 3
•CW„„c,. '''''" J ' ^''e«"0 = f_jo^S7_5 «
J5«te of order. ;:;: gi'jf^^ Hcx^matite Steel Con,
J^ate for UeJivery nt •^."""' ^879. '^' ^^n^pany (Limited)
^^« quantities deli Jed 'and t^^"'*' ''^'•
fails irrf.r«------
P'-«bpla(e;: ^'SOO 3 T \'l'
55 1 2 2
1,555 5 i« ^
Currency ' ' ® "^^ » = £7^7^,, ^ ^
234
Contract No. 4(J.
Bails.— For tho sunp!'' of 1 ' "*•) tons of nfi...! iiiiu ™i»k n..
Manufapi u-ors Ebbw Valo Stool, Iron ai.,1 Coal Company
(Limited). * '
Date of order 2<)th Juno 1P'»'»
Date for delivery 16th . .^,aHi, ib'l'J.
J he quantities delivered and pricoM are an folloWH :—
Tona. cwt. qr». Ibi.
Jtaiirt 1^603 1 1 3
H'lshplates 57 8 3 9
1,560 10 12 (,< £3 0== £7,802 10 6
^'"'■'■''"'•■>' 1^^^
All the .supplies embraced in thi.s contract have boon delivered.
II
Contract No. 47.
,i;„r.u.?!'Ji^^-^ ;'«^^—^ov the supply of 96,000 flnhpliito bolts and nuts J i, .i,
Manufacturer. Patent Nut and Holt Company (Limited)
Date of order 4th .luly, 187'J. ' ^^ »mou;.
Date for delivery 25th .fuly. 1879.
ihe quantities delivered and prices arc as follow^ :—
Tone. Yt. qrg. 11)
Delivei-ed. 46 16 @ £10 .= £463
I'loight and insurance vj) ^ f,
£497 4
^''''''''y ~iW^
Co" OT .. 48,
iffii^^s^s- iS^dS " '^^"°^"' "'"^ «^"^'"' «p°'ficati?;^s^tq
Name of contractor joi.n Ryan.
Date of contract l!Uh August, 1879.
Date for completion ion, ^Vuyugt 1880.
tlio propoptionaW
cifiuation required
, and to ba of th.i
Company
?02 10 6
37,972_28
i.
nnd nutH, I inch
nd nuts, dipped in
).b. at ^Newftort.
Li mi tod).
4
-£497 4
32,419 71
i!!!!!!!!::^::^:^™^ «o "«'«-.
4.
5.
t).
7,
8.
Description o» Work.
Olearinff
Grubbing ..".
"^enniri™ '^ I
Ussumed Quantities.,
'Acres
9,
10.
U.
12.
!3.
u.
15.
111.
18.
J 9.
20.
'^encinjf
"ip-rap ... "8 ""Joe (iiiiug ,,
Tamnrac .. *^''^' "*•' '^'^'te pine or
2«".'>on ;••;; ." ,.^3
,^ -'rmiDgroadvrayfic"'^"'K gates,' ''°- I
1 rn •••••••»... I _, i
Tons.
;;;; / Miieg.
era ," jC. vardsl
1
l,<'0O,i I'D
700,000
100,000
8,000
2,000 I
60,000
10,000
R'ite3.
I CI3.
2 00 per acre, i
4 00 "
750 00 " I
J! :';f per r,. ft. '
" ^<' I>er V. yr-. I
2 M i<
1 60 u
? 28 per 0. ft
07 per lb.
07 'i
Amount.
$ CIS.
200 00
200 00
'lO 00
40,1 ')!> 00
"2,UOO 00
1,2,-50 00
VJO 00
■-8,1(00 Oil
■J.OOO 00
300 00
4,200 00
700 00
I" ''Y'ng..
P""",t« and cr'n
Station build
platform, cui.
100
200
275,000
11,000
106 I
2C0,00O
60
14
145 OOpercrossV
^ cross g( i4^5QQ QQ
10 00
2tf per tie.
oil In f" ton.
276 00 per niile.
/> per (;_ ^
20 00 per set.
2,000 ro
79,780 SO
105,250 00
29,150 00
55,000 00
1,000 00
V«0 00 pers^ati^nj 31,500 00
rp. . ■ :— ____!_ -'■"" "" Persfati'n)
lotal amount for assume i d' — " ~~~— — — — J— _
nt of Work executed, 812,030.00.
contract enibracesl
^, bridging, track-j
)n8 md proviriiona
m.
list, 1879.
jst, 1880,
•S,i
I ■
i 1
CoNTUAcr No. 49.
Xiimo of coiilniclo- .... ,,. , , ,,. ,
Datcofcont.ad.., ,-.','T' ^''^■''^""•
Datoturcumplotiun:;:;:;::; .» I. August, Isti..
ihu building's anil prices are i,h (;,11„ws ._
Knjprson Station
hy.3> : platform, 300 ft. by 12 ft. alone'
'■■lit porliona "
Uuildinfj, 120 ft.
piuif„,».„„, «r,.i,j ,i„, in;i.di.B,.i;;-i|;i-;ii:;;:::;:::::
18
35
43
Arriui'l... .
Oiifrost... ,
Otterbuni.
.Viverville
3,340 40
2,030 10
200 00
200 00
54 St. Norber* 'pi„iV .rr.,' "'"' cnu ana n-iir porliona .„..
70 PI .V ' * '• """' •"'"' ""J '•'^ar portions . ^
77o;;;;;;r-;:::;:;:::::;:::|^'''"^'":i°'"^' '""^'' ^^ ^^f';^^''><=''"iingrais^"ponio^:
1^'*';°° |*"'''^i°K'.?^ f' ''^ 24 1 platform, 300 fL^by 12 ft al
ficnt, and with end and rear portions . . ^
SS.Selkirk
portions ,
Total amount of contract,
Additional works,
Total ,
Amount paid on account 813,051). Thi
I 2,030 40
2,030 40
200 00
3,310 40
200 00
200 00
1!,030 00
15,802 40
26J 80
18,006 SO
s conti-act has been completed.
JJailw.'iy Spik-o-For the nianufactu.-e
'■pikes, iho
CONTHACT No. 51.
Hid deiivoi
y of 700 tons of railway
spikes. The speciKcation renuirod t ho «.>il- i ■ •>/" '"'^ *'^"« ^^ railway
a inches long lly l-incl, nS u d mi. ', : ' ',"'"•" ^■'''V^''' '^^^^ "-""""J i'''^'^
each. "^ " ^ '"' ■""' I""' "!• securely m iron-bound canes of 2 cwt!
&S>om:^;V Alillo.-I3rothers& Mitchell.
J^:;!: tdel vJ.: ^thSeptembei, 187.D.
rr,, . - -tsoruro clo.so Of n.avi-'ation 1879
The quantity delivered and prices are as follows :_
^;jf-r-i': 'S;"rat847
At i-ort William 400 at 52
514,323 00
20 100 00
,,,, . Amount of contract,
lliis contract has been completed.
835,4J5 00
n
Tk.vn.
"lo rccoi\
"<•"', bar,
"'iloailin.r
J
D
J-:,.
A I
lli'antity of SI
ration recniirc
f'lndard; wt
fJ«'"'lJ4fee(
r.'"ct, in .abo
r "ispecled d
i.'<ie<i in ,.,,eci/;
I ./')0 li,sh.,)J
r"''"' <iuali('y
f'-p'-ite (o be
("" <^ 'cmphu,
I , ^''0 bolts J
f '*■'? ; 'Von to I
rcripfion; (J,,.
r ","f^ 'o be h,
f"'"l ca,se,., to c
•^faiiur;i(
J-'ato of
I )
Il'lli-
Iiiiii,' i)C ul
idid
<Otll|lli«li,,|
XI.
7'"
b7;».
1
I'rjcc fur
each,
Coinjilelu,
p
;"».Hifi,..„„,.,, '"^'"•"'■"■I.oacl,. ""-I'l 1 "W,„.„„j;,;7';"j
J'.l(nf>»-, "*
J '•"oof con om.;;;
^"'«^"''co,np,o(;oV,::
m, ' "' S(
"-';i"""(i(j. delivered a,„n] • ^'
J'"-' <'on(,)i(f I,,. I •'■'i^ '""s r:> ■>.((, i| . "u>v,s.—
8-',(;(;:i .-,,)_
cts.
ong
UHfi
1 a,JV) 40
2,030 .10
200 ((I)
200 00
oiij;
■
1 2,030 40
UDR
2,030 40
....
200 00
"IK
....
3,310 40
....
200 00
....
200 00
ng
• ••t
2,030 00
....
15,802 40
....
26J 80
• •••
16,006 XO
0,J.
^ of railway
' rolinod iron,
iwci of 2 cwt.
870.
00
Oi>
00
"'''"' ^"'"Wotion..::;:;:; -jm se,S;S,!"'rpe;;f""<'" Co.
f -"ted amount of contract "' """^'*'''°" «^ i«SO.
■Ai'iount paid nn -i'^OO (2 '>sn u >
' "" '•^^"•"" 315,0^;; '-^ ® «-6«Hooo.
238
The qiiantitios, dates of dolivory and prices are ae follows:
Dale til' Dtliverv.
October 1, 1870 ....
June 1, 1880
Septernljcr 1, 1880..
lio
October I, 1880
Rails.
Tons.
5,000
5,000
5,000
5,000
10,000
Rate per Ton.
Fish-plates.
X 8. 0.
5 17 6
6
5 17 6
I!
6 2 6
Bolts
and Nuts.
£ 9.
10
10
10
10
10
Hstimtilc'i cost 8781,000 00
Uf llu) iiljove there has been del, oi'ed ."),101 tons. Value. 8l23,ir)(i 3S
Octobei
Noveml
be used i
Contract Xo. 54.*
fiAiLH.— K(.r the supply of 10,000 tons of '-teel rails, with the proportionate
quantity of Htceilish-platey and bolts and nuts, deli \-erod at Montreal. The speciri-
fation is the .samo as that for Contract No. 5:5.
•Manufactuicrs Guest & Co.
Date of contract 11th September, 1879.
The quantities, dates of delivery and prices are as follows :
Date of Delivery.
Rails.
October 1, 1879
June 1, 1880
Tons.
5,000
5,000
Rate per Ton.
Rails.
X' 3. D.
4 17 6
5
Fish-plates,
Bolts
and Nuts.
X' s. n.
5 17 6
6
X 8. U.
12
12
Kslimatcd cost $258,000 00
Ut the alj«A-e there has been delivered -l,701J tons. Value. 1I5,(]98 35
CONTHACT No. 55.=''-
Raii.h.~,F()1' 111," supply of 5,000 tons of steel rails, with the proportionate
quantity of steeUsh-plates and bolts and nuts, delivered at Montreal. The speeid-
cation IS the .same as that for Contract No. 53.
MunufaciurerH West Cumberland Iron Steel Co. (Limited).
Uatcof conti'act., 29th August, 1879.
Iho
era brace
J?A1LT
■(^'(h eigna
N
Di
Dt
At
At
TURN-TA
' contract emb
Nan
Date
Date
Amount c
IDei
3 0p(
Amoii
Ton.
tea.
Bolts
and Nuls.
D.
7 6
7 6
3
2 6
£. s. I),
10 5
10 5
10 6
10 5
10 7 6
81,0
23,1
OO 00
)(J 38
ho proportionate
sal. The speciri-
Uo.
tember, 1879.
Ion.
tes,
Bolts
and Nuts.
X B. u.
6
12
12
i8,0
15.0
00 oo
08 35
ho pmportionato
ill. The spociti-
mited).
DateorneUve.,. , ^^^^ , Hate p. To.
^''''- \ F'Vb-plates, 1 "^t7
— I , \ and Nuts.
October 1, ,879 | ''^''■^' X s J ^ —
November 1,1879 .•;::: 3oro -e 8. D. ^,
""tercolo^ia, mXy,^;^' ^-'3. lO.COO tons of which ^in
T y Contract Jfo 5c
J-'ate of contract x-- „ "''"ge.
Date for compieti;-;-;; ^Z 'miT ^"'^^^ ^«-
Nii.
..IJAawAv Switch F«o ^^"™^^ ^o. 57.
Date for completion.. :J/\^eptember, I879
An^ount of contract '' ^"'^^' ™- "
^-"nt paid on accoun;:;:]^-?/"^"^' ^^-' --P'ote, at «I00=.,,. ooo.
-tract embrace,; the^^i„^Xlr;1l;r'^'■'-^-■'■■^^
! ^>e of contractor '^' ""'' «''«-tion in' plat ''''^™^'«''- The
Date of contract.. w Tr , . "^^P'^te.
Date for completion Cith fc'l'^''"''^*.
Amount of contract - '"""''^'' ^^^O-
jI>eckod turntable..
^"^ ^^ at JMGo::::::*::: $2,016 00
. ^,080 m
Amount paicU.A,-;, -^
210
Contract No. 59.
Sleepers -For the supply of 100,000 railway ties, and the delivery of the same
mSef wtt of RoTp '" ^'"""r' ^:\ ^\ '^''°«^ *'«« ^'-^ f«'- "«° on the second lT>
miles we.t of Ecd B.vor, and will be handed over to the contractor for tiu
Hection, at the contract price. The ties are to be 8 feet lon<', flaUed o .
two opposite sides to a uniform thickness of 6 inches, the flatted surfac^ bo ng Z
less than 6 inches, on either side, at the small end. suimoe ooing no/.
Name of contractors Whitehead, Huttan and Ryan.
Da e of contract 6th February, 1880.
Date for completing in time to be taken across ice-
bridge on Red River in
spring of 1880.
Amount of contract 100,000 ties, at 27|=827,750
Amount paid j«^Tf|_ ' '* w-«)«""-
Contract No. CO.
Main Line, in British Columbia, extending from Emory's Bar to Boston Bar -The
contract enibraces a the works necessary in connection 4ith the excavating grad
S^eciraS-^e'ngJCl'nliTef '^^^"^ ^"' '^'^'''^^ ^-^'"^ ^« ^'^ '--'
Name of contractor Andrew Onderdonk.
Date of contract 23rd December, 1879.
Date for completion 3 1st December, 1883.
rateB^'?e'Kni^f:!3"'""'"' '"^"'■^'"' '' contractors, moneyed out at contract
SCHEDULE OF QUANTITIES AND PRICE3.
Description of Work. ,
'Approximate
Quantities.
Clearing
Close cutting , .",'!"'!""
Grubbing !.'."!'!.".'.'.".!'..'.'.",".".'"
Fencing.. ..'.".'..."!!!!!!,",'.'.'.!"
Solid rock excavation i •.!!.'!!'.,'.'.".'.'..'.'.'.'.'
Loose do do !.'..'.'.".'.'..".'.'.*.'!!.
Earth excavation, including that described iij
clause 13 of specification
Uuder-drains „
Tunnelling (see clause 32 of specification)—
"Line tunnels" in rock, in the following
lengths: 30O ft., 50, l.')0, 105, 240. 400, 360,1
385, 290, 200, 150, 140, 1,600, 100, 150 100
110, 230, 360 and 500 feet..
"Twelvefeet— stream tunnels" .'
"Six feet— stream tunnels"....
Bridge masonry [[[
Culvert masoar/ ...".'.'.,
Carriea !»rward.
Acres.
do
do
L. feet,
C.yards.
do
do
L. feet.
do
do
do
C.yarda,
do
Rates.
250
10
10
10,000
600,000
260,000
1,500,000
2,000
Say 6,000
200
1,000
15,000
10,000
Per acre
do
do
Per 1. ft,
Per c.rd
do
do
Per I. ft,
$ cts.
30 00
40 00
80 00
05
1 50
76
30
40
do
105 00
do
36 00
do
12 00
Per c yd
10 00
do
6 00
AmoQBt,
¥ eta.
7,500 00
400 00
800 00
500 00
760,000 00
187,600 00
450,000 00
800 00
630,000 00
7,200 00
12,000 00
150,000 00
60,000 00
Operations
• VoTB Si
fct'oents, an
peed herein for
l-'3-I6.
eliveryof thesnmo
oon the second lO.j
[contractor for tlic
t long, flatted on
surface being not
md By an.
icross ice-
River in
=827,'750.
• Boston Bar.— The
excavating, grad-
; to the General
ionk.
1879.
1883.
)d out at contract
30 00
7,500 00
40 00
400 00
80 00
800 00
05
500 00
1 60
750,000 00
76
187,600 00
30
450,000 00
40
800 00
Wejcr
05 00
630,000 00
36 00
7,200 00
12 00
12,000 00
10 00
150,000 00
6 00
1
60,000 00
SOHKDULE OF Qu^s
iption of Work.
TITIES AND PRrcES._c.,
(^'oncluded.
I I I Amount.
I
Brought forward ' 1
"'I'lg walls, efe^ I
■•••••••,
^. k<it.
^rym«.so„,,(,e,ain;ng walls, etc)..
t/oncrete....
Rip-rap.... .'
Oast-iroD pines" Vr," "V"-
do do ^ll do J •
do do 'II do j ^o
(See clauses 42 and 4. r "« do I ^o
TimbPr. °''"°f specification.) ^^
J2 -n.xl'e ft' ^-"-"eam culverts, etc -
Pl.nl?""'"^- ••••••••>":'.':""*■- -&;",-2i;," «Jo
^•>«^;i;oCr.:::—:~:::::::;:::::::;:i,'^,
, Ties ..;;;• .,";;• ' ' ■
Wlastiog ^ Tons.
ni!/"»p°'pt^'and";;;«i::„:: '•'. '":::.r::r\r^^':
5,000 -Perc.yd
1,000 do '
1,000 Z
MOO Z
SO" .Perl, ft./
15,000 Per cyd
8 jPer^spanj
li d'o°
I
2,000
6,000
1,500
1,400
10 00
u 75 I
',600 00
6,260 00 '
4,000 00 I
2,J00 00 I
1,400 00
30 I
30
25
25
$ Cf3,
20,000 00
3,000 00
6,000 00
3,000 00
5,000 00
11,250 00
60,000 00
6,260 00
24,000 00
2,100 00
4,200 00
600 00
1,500 «o
375 00
359 00
do
do
40
iSKSSr*^^^^^^^^^^^ ■•■■■•jor.a.i
3,000
20,000 I
3,000
600
76,000
3,000
30
100,000
20
do
'Per ton./
, Miles. I
' Bach '
do
I 00
300 00
30
25 00
60 00
4,000 00
2,000 00
760 90
600 00
450 00
o„ ■'* 00
22,500 00
3,000 00
9,000 00
30,000 00
600 00
200 00
Total
. 260^0 00
. te!l'if '""^ ""•^^ii^IZrr; "" f-mt^ 2,727,300"^
|e«8nreme"rafe:^ 'v^' ^"<^n^i^e, ^i-^t ?^*f«ch, I880 ^
^^ conjectured, and
242
Contract No. 61.
Main Line, in British Columbia, extending from Boston Bar to Lytton. — Tho
contract embraces all the works necessary in connection with the excavating,
grading, tunnelling, bridging, track-laying and ballasting, according to the tronoral'
Specification, Length, 29 miles.
Name of contractors Ej-an, Goodwin ife Co.
Date of contract lOlh February, 1880.
Date for completion 30th June, 1884.
The approximate quantities furnished to contractors, moneyed out at contract
rates, are as follows : —
SCHEDDLE OF QUANTITIES AND PRICES.
Description of Work,
•Approiimate Quantities.
Clearing _
Close cutting
Grubbing „
Fencing
Solid rock ezcaTation
Loose rock excavation .,
Earth excavation (Including that described in
clause 13 of specification^ ^
Under-drains
Acres,
do
do
L, feet.
0, yards
do
do
L, feet.
Tunnelling (see clause 32 of specification)—
" Line tunnels"
" TwelTe feet — stream tunnels"
" Six feet — stream tunneh " -
Bridge masonry C,
Culvert masonry
Dry masonry (retaining walls, Ac )
Paving
Concrete
Rip-rap
Cast-iron pipes, 3 ft. diameter inside, 1 in, thick,
laid in concrete (the concrete not included
in this item) „ L.
Hand-laying rock embankmeats, where slopes 0,
are steeper than 1 to 1 (labor only)
Timber bridge superstructure, 150 ft. clear
do do 125 do
do do 100 do „
do do 60 do
do do 40 do
(See clauses 42 and 43 of specification.)
Timber, best quality, for beam culverts, 4c, —
12 in. X 16 in _
12 in, X 12 in
Sin. X 16 in
Sin. X 12 in
Other dimensions of timber (if required to be
used) at proportionate prices.
do
do
do
yards
do I
do
do
do
do
feet,
yards
400
10
10
10,000
200,000
300,000
3,000,000
2,000
600
100
SOD
25,000
10,000
26,000
1.000
1,000
30,000
Files driven (see clause 40 ot specification).
Carried forward ,.
L, feet,
do
do
do
do
600
1,000
No,
1
do
1
do
34
do
1
do
1
200
2,000
200
200
10,000
Rates,
Per acre
do
do
Per 1. ft.
Percyd
do
do
Per 1. ft.
do
do
do
Per c.yd
do
do
do
do
do
Per 1. ft
Per c.yd
Per span
do
do
do
do
Per 1. ft,
do
do
do
do
% cts,
25 00
30 00
100 00
06
1 80
75
30
40
120 00
60 00
20 00
12 00
8 00
3 00
2 60
7 00
2 00
30 00
50
6,800 00
4,200 00
3,000 00
1,600 00
1,000 00
60
45
40
30
50
.Amount.
$ cts,
10,000 00
300 00
1,000 00
600 00
360,000 00
225,000 00
900,000 00
800 00
72,600 00
5,000 00
10,000 00
300,000 00
80,000 00
75,000 00
2,600 00
7,000 00
60,000 00
15,000 CO
500 00
5,800 00
4,200 00
102,000 00
1,600 00
1,000 00
120 00
900 00
80 00
60 00 I
5,000 I
243
ir to Lytton. — Tho
th the excavating,
ling to the (jroneral
in A Co.
y, 1880.
384.
ed out at contract
Rates.
25 00
30 00
100 00
06
1 80
75
30
40
120 00
60 00
20 00
12 00
8 00
3 00
2 60
7 00
2 00
30 00
50
,800 00
,200 00
,000 GO
,600 00
,000 00
60
45
40
30
Amount.
$ cts.
10,000 00
300 00
1,000 00
600 CO
360,000 00
225,000 00
900,000 00
800 00
72,900 00
5,000 00
10,000 00
300,000 00
80,000 00
75,000 00
2,600 00
7,000 00
60,000 00
15,000 00
600 00 1
5,800 00 I
4,200 flO ■
102,000 00 1
1,500 00 ■
1,000 00 ■
50
120 00
900 00
80 00
60 00
5,00D 00
SCHEDULE OP QUANTITIES AND PRlcgs.,
Coneluded,
description of Work
I 'Approximate Quantities. Rates, j
Brought forward.
"°"ti:^i^SU:^wharfi.g, etc.. not less,'
$ cts
'in road diversion cuiVerV8;"i2in! I
Platted timber
thicli
Plank
Wrought iron'.'.'.'.*."'.".'.
i^ast iron
Ties
Amouot.
$ cts.
of:^ection;-h;;;r;;ji^'=;:i[«^^n>werend
Track-laying
Ballasting , aiiea.
oettiDg points and crossings'." \^- /ards
do
I do
Ft. B.AI.
Lbs.
I do
No.
Tons.
Miles.
10,000 do
3,000
10,000
1,000
100
75,000
do
PerM.
Per lb.
do i
Each.
''"'J^^gu^ SS' --fn-g timber
verts u^der aVoafenriir''"'l" *^"'-
complete . '''""''<="6». ana "otice boards,
"^eSiilfrai^^'be-^ij^uii^d
fication, short nan titfi of general speei-
-add, ^ay, |26^o"ooo !;!f.."!.r°"''«''''='*^
To
No.
do
3,000 Per ton..
,^ 30 Per mile
100,000 Perc.yd
20 Each. I
Each.
25
30 00
12
10
30
1 00
250 00
40
40 00
150 00
3,000 00
750 00
300 00
120 00
10 00
22,500 00
3,000 00
7,500 00
40,000 00
800 00
300 00
Total
urementa ^^a = w^aniuies priated in th a ....i..™
250,000 00
2,573,640 00
s==«-iSS3S-^=-*-"»-^^.ssis523
244
Contract No. 62.
contriTj\~!'I1u'^' Columbia, extending from Lytton to Junction Plat. The
f,?nn„^r emb.ace:^ all the works necessary in connection with the excavation jrra.lin"
Lcngt, V;S"^'' ^'•-'^■'^^'"^' -J l>''"-^ting, according to General sjed^cat'ioi'..
Name of Contractor Andrew Ondcrdonk.
l)ate of Contract 23rd December, 1&7!).
Date for Completion 3 Ist December, 1SS4.
rate^ill'S'Sr :!3"'"^'^'^^ '"'"'^'^"^ '" ^^"^'•^^^^'■^' --«3'od out at contract
SCHEDULE OF QUANTITIES AND PRICES.
Description of Work.
•Appro.vimate Quantities,
Clearing
Close cutting ,
Grubbing
Fencing ."
Solid rock excavation
Loose do
^"'clan^Tw" ('.»'=''"?"B"that"d73c;ibed'in
clause 13 of specification)
Under-dramg
Tunnelling (see clause Viof specifi cation)-
"Line tunnels" '
Bridge masonry
Gnlvert do ,[[["
Dry masonry (retaining wri'lsV'iT)."""- .'.'."
Paring ",,__ '
Concrete !".'.'.'".'.*.!!,..'
Rip-rap "|||
Cast-iron pipes, 3 ft. dVameter inside.'Tin.* thV^'
this UemT"*'* ^^^^ concrete not included in
Hand-laying rock embankmVnVs" wheresiop^Eare
t:-,u'!*J'S','''"" 1 to.one (labour only),.........,:,.:
T;_,v,^ ,• . , "" """ \inuuur ouiyi
imber bridge superstructure, 160 ft. clear
J do 100 do
S" ■ <lo 60 do
A° "Jo 50 do .....".■.■
2" do 40 do
,o " , do 30 do
(See clauses 42 and 43 of specification.)
Timber, best quality, for beam culyertfl, Ac-
12 in. X 16 in
12 in. X 12 10
H in. X 16 in
8in. X 12 in ....".'
Other dimensions of timberbf requ'lre'd "to be
used) at proportionate prices. i
Piles driven (see clause 40 of specification)
''"?2^rdtm'rr".'.:.'l".«°«^'=•' -* '- *^-
^***^''th™k" '° '"*'* ^'^«'''''<"> ouire"rt8,"4c.","r2
Carried forward ,
Acres.
do
do
L. ft.
C. Yds.
do
do
L. ft.
do
C. yds.
do
do
do
do
do
L. ft.
C. yds,
No.
do
do
do
do
do
L. ft.
do
do
do
do
do
do
200
10
10
10,000
2fiO,000
100,000
2,500,000
2,000
400
15,000
10,000
30,000
1,000
1,000
2e,ooo
500
1,000
2
19
1
2
1
1
8,000 00
500 00
1,000 00
500 00
320,000 00
80,000 00
750,000 00
800 00
42,000 00
180,000 00
70,000 00
120,000 00
3,000 00
6,000 00
40,000 00
5,000 00
Pprc.yd 1 00
Perspani 7,500 00
do
do
do
do
do
1,000 Per L ft.
5,000 do
1,000
1,000
10,000
10,000
do
do
do
do
10,000 I do
4,000 00
2,100 00
2,100 00
1,400 00
1,400 00
40
40
30
30
40
25
30
1,000 00
16,000 00
*6,000 00
2,100 00
4,200 00
1,400 00
1,400 00
400 00
2,000 00
300 00'
300 00
4,000 00
2,500 00
3,000 00
inction Flat. The
ccuvation, gradin^r^
loral Speciticatiun.
lonk.
1&7!).
1884.
d out at contract
$ cts.i
40 00
SO 00
00 00
05
I 60
80
30
40
105 00
12 00
7 00
4 00
3 00
6 CO
2 00
1
10 00 !
1 00
00 00
)0 00
00 00
)0 00
DO 00
)0 00
40
40
30
30
40
25
30
cts.
8,000 00
500 00
1,000 00
500 00
320,000 00
80,000 00
750,000 00
800 00
42,000 00
180,000 00
70,000 00
120,000 00
3,000 00
6,000 00
40,000 00
5,000 00
1,000 00
16,000 00
re, 000 00
2,100 00
4,200 00
1,400 00
1,400 00
400 00
2,000 00
300 00'
300 00
4,000 00
2,500 00
3,000 00
245
SCHEDDLE OF QUA.VTIT^
AND PRWKS.-Conclu.M
Description of n'ork.
••iP|'roiima,« yoHnlltl«,.
Brought forward .. 1
Plank
Wrou;?ht iron".".';;
t^ast iron ...
Ties .;; I
Ballasting..! ...."
&/;:^51^?'^r^i"^":::::::::r:; -j
eattle.g„ards, pZkrnl\^°T/'rs timberl
fica ion, slion qnan?iH»f Ck'neral Speci-
-nt,ngencies, ad^ sa;,"|^'6o,To&.":^ ^''
Total
jFt- B 11,,
Lbs.
do
No.
Tons.
Miles.
0. yds.
No.
do
20,000 I />,.r »,
3,000 p,,r il[
500 ,],,
^0 I Kttci'
<J<.
•| I * ..f.[f;l * eta.
1 00
300 (10
30
26 00
500 00
tiOO 00
100 00
22,600 00
3,000 00
9,000 00
30,000 00
500 00
^'" "" \ 350 00
I : I 250.0»0 00
Operations had not nZ^ ~— ■ Ll ' 2,056,95o'oo~
• >foT«.-.Some of the "' "' '"' "^ ""«", 1880. ^ ^
248
Contract No. 63.
Name of contractor Andrew Onderdonk.
Da eof contract 15th December, 1873.
Date for completion 30th June, 1885,
raferarcrfoniwsl'"'""""' '"''""'''' '' contractor,., moneyed out at contract
SCHEDULE OP QUANTITIES AND PRIORS.
Description of Work.
Clearing
Close cutting !!!!."!!!!!!.'.'!.'.'.'.'.".'.""
Grubbing '. ."'.'."',.,'.'.'.',",,,'
Fencing ....'.'.'.'."..'!
Solid rock ezcaration .".".'.!'.'.!!!".'.!'.. !!y.!!!'.i
Loose rock excavation !.."..!'..!.!'."....
Earth excavation, (including that'deseribed in
clause 13 of specification)
Under-drains
• Approximate Quantities, i Rates.
Tunnelling (see clause 32 of specification)—
" Line tunnels." This tunnel will be
formed in earth. The price per lineal
foot of tunnel must cover excavation,
.1 m centering, masonry and all expenses-
Twelve feet— stream tunnels "
"Six feet— stream tunnels "
Bridge masoonr
Culvert masonry !...!!!!"
Dry masonry (retaining walls, etc)!!!."...'.,
PaviD^
Concrete „ !!!.!.'.'!..!.!!,!!!!!!!!
Rip-rap , .'..'!."."'.!!!!'
Cast-iron pipes, 3f» di»metVr"in8VdP,"'i* inch
thick, laid in o«ncrete (the concrete not
included in this item)
Hand-laying rock embankments, where slopes
are steeper than 1 to 1 (labour only)
Timber bridge superstructure, 200 ft. clear..,
2" do 150 do .,
f« do 126 do ..,
f» do 100 do ...
, *» , do 60 do ..,
(See clauses 42 aod 43 of specification )
Timber, best quality, for beam culverts, Ac—
12 in. X 16 in
Vi in. X 12 in ' ,
8 in. X 16 in
8 in. X 12 in
Sin. X ICin
Other dimensions of r.imbers (if required to be
used) at proportionate prices.
Carried forward
Acres, i
do
do
L
feet.
0.
yards
do
do
L
foef.
do
do
do
. yards
do
do
do
do
do
C.
feet.
vards
do'
do
do
do
L. f^et.
do
do
do
do
2,5
5
5
io,ooe
100,000
50,000
3,000,000
2,000
2tO
100
100
10,000
5,000
5,000
1,000
1,000
15,000
500
1,000
2
1
1
1
1
1,000
50,000
15,000
50,000
60,000
Per acre.
do
do
Per 1. ft.
Per c, yd
do
do
Per I. ft.
yd
do
do
do
Per c.
do
do
do
do
do
Per 1. ft.
Per c. yd
Per span
do
do
do
do
Perl,
do
do
do
do
ft.
$ eta,
30 00
40 00
50 00
06
1 75
75
27
20
60 00
20 00
15 00
10 60
10 00
8 00
6 00
5 50
2 75
18 00
2 75
8,000 00
6,000 00
6,000 00
3,500 00
2,100 00
50
40
30
30
25
Amount.
750 00
200 00
250 00
600 00
175,000 00
37,500 00
810,000 on
400 00
15,000 00
2,000 00
1,500 00
105,000 00
60,000 00
40,000 00
6,000 00
5,500 00
41,250 00
9,000 00
2,750 00
16,000 00
6,000 00
6,000 00
3,500 00
2,100 00
500 00
20,000 00
4,500 00
15,000 Ou
12,500 00
il^:.'
\
24T
to Savona's Ferry,
th iho excavation,
ording to General
irdonk.
1-, 1S73.
>d out at contract
lutes.
Amouut.
$ Ct8.
30 00
40 00
50 00
06
1 75
75
$ CM.
750 00
200 00
250 00
600 00
175,000 00
37,600 00
27
20
810,000 00
400 00
60 00
20 00
15 00
15,000 00
2,000 00
1,500 00
10 50
105,000 00
10 00
8 00
5 00
50,000 Oi)
40,000 00
5,000 00
5 50
6,500 00
2 75
41,250 00
18 00
9,000 00
2 75
00 00
00 00
2,750 00
16,000 00
6,000 00
00 00
5,000 00
00 00
00 00
3,500 00
2,100 00
50
500 00
40
30
30
25
20,000 00
4,500 Qi,
15,000 01/
12,500 00
1
1
sohedctle: OF - .NriTiEs AND ParcEs.-
Contluded.
Description of Work.
•Approximate Quantities.
Rates.
Amount.
Brought forward i„_ i I |
Round's rrtTUarl^r''^"''!?"''"?-"-! f^- ^-t.
p, I2inches in diametlr ".''°^' ""' '*'« """> ,
FUt^ed^t,mberin road diversion -c-ul^ertsTn '°
Pjank .'.■,■.■,"; do
Wrought iron .Ft. B.M.i
Cast iron Lbs.
Ties do
Ballasting..:...... "■'--
Setting points and'crossYngs.:"";;;;".
cts,
10,000 I Per 1. ft. |
10,000 do I
10,000
200,000
50,000
10,000
100,000 I
do
Per M.
Per lb.
do
Kach.
Miles. I
0, vards
No.
To
Total
do
4,0CO f Per ton.
,,^ 42 I Per mile.
130,000 Per c. yd
26 Kach.
do
40
25
30
35 00
12
10
25
3 00 I
300 00
27
30 00 I
200 00 I
cts.
4,000 00
2,500 00
3,000 00
7,000 00
6,000 00
1,000 OO
35,000 00
12,000 OO
12,600 00
35,100 00
750 00
400 00
Operations had not commenced at end of March, 1880.
,.tZZ;f°:^'. ?^the quantities
250,000 00
1,746,160 00
ssi5's:«?;j^'Sia^^.ss- sst^^z^sss^
Contract No. 64
Name of contractors -r, ^
Date of contract fyan Whitehead & Ruttan
JJate for completion fSth March, 1880.
15th May, 1880.
Amount of contract ....
Amount paid on account 87,350 00
Nil.
2-l8
CONTEACT No. flS,
J{or,LiNo Stock.— Tlio contract ombruces ull Iho neccMHory labour, mnchinory and
other plant, matonalH, articles and things necessarv Cor tho duo execution and com-
pletion of four first class passenger cars, to carry *;i paHMonKors each, and one official
car; all to bo constructed and finished in accordance with the snecitications and
designs, and having the " Wo.stinghouso Au(.,raati<- Air-Iiiako" attached.
Name of contractor James Crosson
Uatoot contract mu, March, 1880.
Date for completion int .J,,,,,,, 1880.
Amount of contract: —
Four first class cars 813 98-i 00
One official car 51(77 00
Total 82t,!)Ul 00
Amount paid on account jjjl.
13 <
14
1
1
, 1
;^
'
■$
CANADIAN PACIKIU K.MLWAV.
SuMMAUY of Payments made on account of work done up to ;ilst De^'onilior 187')
and approximate estimate of cxpoiiditurc involved. ' ''
17
18
lit
a
§
O
4
-*?iime of Contractor.
Amount Paid.
1
Probable
Amount
InTolred.
I
1 "
■
23
24
1
2
Sifton, Glass A Co
Richard Fuller
$ ctg.
116,100 49
131,013 57
41,900 00
217,025 82
ZOSil-JS 00
161,124 97
280,568 76
264,177 08
1,069,842 29
1
306,581 88
266,052 36
41,000 00
$ cts.
146,020 00
197,353 00
413,217 00
268,050 00
208,163 00
161,124 97
280,568 76
254,177 08
1,065,842 29
305,581 88
265,052 36
41,000 00
25
26
27
3
F. J. Barnard
28
4
5
5a
OliTer, Davidson & Co
Joseph Whitehead
Joseph Whitehead
29 (
30 f
31 F
32 C
32a L
33 K
34 N,
35 C(
6
V
Quest h Co
Ebbw Vale Steel, Iron and Coal Co
8
Mersey Steel and Iron Co
10
West Cumberland Iron and Steel Co \
West Cumberland Iron and Steel Co
11
Naylor, Benzon & Co
36 W
12
Hon. A. B. Foster
37 He
Carried forward
1
249
Si'MMAnv of Puymontfl made
r, machinery nnd
Bcution and com-
I, nnd Olio official
lecitioations and
;hed.
en.
1880.
80.
,984 (10
,077 00
!l(jl 00
Deoemlioi', 1870,
Probable
Amount
involyed.
I I
$ CtB.
146,020 00
197,353 00
413,217 00
268,050 00
208,163 00
161,124 97
280,558 76
254,177 08
1,065,842 29
306,581 88
265,052 36
41,000 00
™c::sr.!i^'IS„vt";; "L'°,^''' "«-^- ^
■^ay—Continued.
.Vanies of Contractors.
a;
13
Amount paid. | Amount
involved.
Sifton A Ward.
Brought forward
Ct9.
■!< CtS.
11
17
18
l!t
20
21
22
23
24
1 tract No. 14)..
.3,200 87
18,778 64
633,485) 00 j
91,730 00
Purccll & Rynn
Sifton 4; Ward
Joseph Whitehead (Completins Con
15 (Joseph Whitehead
^'' joanada Central Railwa^Co ..." I ''""''"' '"
Anderson, Anderson 4 Co .""'' I ''''"' ''
Bed River Transportation Co
Moses Chevrette
'Merchants' Lake and River Steamship Co
Patrick Kenny
Holcomb & Stewart.
Sifton & Ward _..„....
Oliver, Davidson k Co
25 Purcell A Ryan.,
51,402 96
213,928 24
1,600 00 j
67,126 28
8,782 11
5,850 00
14,648 14
3,625 10
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
32o jLeMay A Blair
33
34
35
36
37
James Isbester J.396,100 00
Merchants' Lake and River Steamship Co.
Red River Transportation Co
Cooper, Fairman A Co
Robb A Co
Patent Bolt and Nut Co
Cooper, Pairman A Co „
35,431 00
89,060 00
313,200 87
18,77^ G4
110,000 00
2,525,000 00
1,440,000 00
51,462 9'J
1,600 0<»
67,126 28
8,782 U
5,8ri0 (K;
14,648 14
3,525 10
1,400,000 00
35,431 00
89,060 00
8,f32 90
16,160 00
6,800 69
13,736 60
17,730 46
91,500 00 I
Kavanagh, Murphy A Upper ..,
North-West Transportation Co...
Cooper, F,irman A Co ZZ | "'''^"^ " !
William Robinson ^
Heney, Cbarlebois A Flood
Carried forward ,
23,880 00
66,700 92
11,000 00
8,532 90
16,160 00
6,800 69-
13,737 50
17,730 45
202,652 50
110,400 44
23,880 00
69,494 92
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)
//
A
f/.
V'
^
j
1.0
I.I
11.25
■ 36
1^
12.2
- lis liio
^
1.4 11.6
V
<^
/:
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
13 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) 872-4503
#^
iV
,v
:\
\
%
V
^ \ ^\
r^
250
SoMMARrt of Payments made on account of Work done up to 31st December, 1879
&c. — Canadian Pacific Eailway — Continued.
o
a:
Names of Contractors.
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
56
■56
57
68
59
■m
61
-62
■63
-61
■65
Brought forward .,
Gdmond Ingalis
John Irving
Qouin, Murphy Se Upper.
Purcell k Co
Mannin);, Macdonald, McLaren k Co
Joseph Upper & Co
West Cumberland l:on and Steel Co ,
Barrow Huumatite Steel Co »
Ebbw Vale Steel, Iron and Coal Co
Putent Bolt and Nut Co
John Ryan... ,
Richard Dickson
Miller Brothers k Mitchell ,
Dominion Bolt Co.. ,
North-West Transportation Co
Barrow Haematite Steel Co ,
Guest k Co ,
West Cumberland Iron and Steel Co ,
Kellogg Bridge Co »
Truro Patent Frog Co „ ...
W. Hazlehurst
Whitehead, Ruttan k Ryan «.
Andrew Underdonk
Ryan, Goodwin k Co ,
Andrew Ooderdonk
Andrew Onderdonk.
Ryan, Whitehead k Ruttan
James Croasen
i f - r
Amount paid.
$ CtR.
3,466 85
9,660 00
24,600 00
395,300 00
96,100 00
12,030 00
13,050 00
3S,425 00
2,662 60
15,084 00
9,379,979 81
Probablo
Amount
inrolTed.
S cts.
3,466 85
33,785 00
2,300,196 00
4,130,707 01)
50,064 74
37,844 59
37,972 28
2,277 60
600,500 00
16,066 20
35,426 00
2,662 50
24,000 00
781,000 00
268,000 00
128,600 00
2,600 00
12,000 00
6,096 00
27,750 00
2,727,300 00
2,573,640 00
2,056,950 00
1,746,160 00
7,350 00
24,961 00
i '<.
I
261
t Decombor, 1879,
Probablu
AmouQt
inrolred.
S cts.
3,466 35
00
33,785 00
00
2,300,196 00
00
4,130,707 01)
50,06t 74
37,844 59
37,972 28
2,277 60
00
600,600 00
00
16,066 20
00
35,426 00
60
2,662 SO
00
24,000 00
•••••
781,000 CO
• ••I'
268,000 00
128,600 00
2,500 00
12,000 00
6,096 00
27,750 00
2,727,300 OO
2,673,640 00
2,056,950 00
1,746,160 00
7,360 00
24,981 00
_"""'" °' '""---:r'src;v-ffls^^
i"'robabIe
Amount
involved.
ExPKMDlrURE NOT 0NDBB Oo»TRAOT.
Miscellaneoas payments, not under cont.-i=.ijt
$ eta
Total.
cts.