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TA 
 
ETJRYALUS; 
 
 TALES OF THE SEA, 
 
 A FEW LEAVES 
 
 FAOM THE 
 
 DIARY OF A MIDSHIPMAN. 
 
 2ie<A^;>. (^ C. i , 1P; v>^ 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 J. D. POTTER, 3 1, POULTRY, 
 
 AND 11, KING STREET, TOWER HILL. 
 
 1860. 
 

 L 
 
I 
 
 EURYALUS: 
 
 TALES OF THE SEA. 
 
 A FKW LKAVKS 
 
 FI.'OM 'JIIl; 
 
 DIARY UF A MIDSHIPMAN; 
 
 WHICH SMALr, VOUTME IS DKDICATKD (WITHOUT PEUMISSIOn) 
 
 TO ONK 
 WHO, UNIVKRSALLY HEI.OVED FOR HIS BOUNTIFUL CIIAHITY, 
 MOST JtJSTI,Y ADMIREI) FOR HIS AHUNDANT GE^ -IROSITV 
 
 AND HIS LIKEUAI. HOSPITALITY 
 
 IS A FRIEND TO THK POOR, AND A FATHER TO THE FAT11ERLES8- 
 
 SIR JAMeS MATHESON, BART., MP., 
 
 AMONG WHOSE NUMEROUS WELL-WISHERS, NONE MORE SINCERE 
 THAN THE ATTHOH OF THESE LEAVES. 
 
 i»(;o. 
 
i 
 
PKKFACE. 
 
 In placing bofore immediate friends the incidents of a 
 Midshipman's life, the aiitlior feels that he has much 
 forgiveness to ask for so groat an intrusion on patience 
 and leisure hours. 
 
 Having, however, two very imsoifish motives for so 
 doing, it gives him some encouragement, and even bold- 
 ness, in launching forth his little volume. 
 
 He has only to observe that, sliould any "nautical 
 terras" here made use of appear inelegant to the reader, 
 they must be kindly passed over — never being intended 
 to offend. 
 
 He hopes he may also be excused for occasionally 
 giving way to his .feelings (and, perhaps, he may unin- 
 tentionally get credit for an excess of gallantry). He 
 can assure his readers it is done only to illustrate the 
 sensitive heart a sailor naturally possesses at all times, 
 and not introduced for the sake of being thought 
 romantic. As they happened to him when a boy, so 
 they were then recorded in his Diary, and so they are 
 now transferred here. 
 
 T il- ' 
 
 v.: J U" £ 
 
INDEX. 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 Chap. PART I. 
 
 1. Introduction to the Service 
 
 2. Madeira 
 
 3. Cape of Good Hope 
 
 4. India and China 
 
 5. China in War 
 
 6. Nankin 
 
 7. Homeward Bound 
 
 8. Sick Quarters 
 
 9. Outward Bound 
 
 10. Cape of Good Hope 
 
 11. China in Peace 
 
 12. Penang 
 
 13. Saturday Night at Sea 
 
 14. Homeward Bound 
 
 1. Jack on Shore 
 
 2. Outward Bound 
 
 3. The Galapagos 
 
 4. San Francisco 
 
 5. Mazatlan ... 
 
 6. Lima 
 
 7. Guayaquil ... 
 
 PART II. 
 
 i. to iv. 
 
 Pa^e. 
 1 
 
 H 
 
 19 
 
 ... 26 
 
 31 
 
 43 
 
 55 
 
 .. 67 
 
 .. 76 
 
 90 
 
 .. 100 
 
 .. 107 
 
 .. 118 
 
 .. 127 
 
 140 
 147 
 162 
 186 
 196 
 207 
 213 
 
INDEX. 
 
 
 PART 
 
 III. 
 
 
 Clinp. 
 
 
 
 PaRC 
 
 1 . First Voyage North 
 
 
 
 219 
 
 2. Petropavlovskoi 
 
 ... 
 
 
 231 
 
 .'J. Second Voyage North 
 
 ... 
 
 
 241 
 
 A Chapter by itself 
 
 . • . 
 
 
 248 
 
 4. Guaymas 
 
 ... 
 
 
 262 
 
 n. The Casa Fuerte ... 
 
 • *. 
 
 
 273 
 
 (). Sandwich Isles 
 
 . • • 
 
 
 28.5 
 
 7. The Arctic Ocean ... 
 
 • • • 
 
 
 291 
 
 A Chapter on Private 
 
 Theatricals 
 
 299 
 
 8. Homeward Bound ... 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 .112 
 
 Last.— St. Helena 
 
 ... 
 
 • .• . • 
 
 .*J23 
 
 Pago 5 line 10, 
 )> 8 „ 5, 
 V 60 „ 21, 
 „ 79 „ 30, 
 
 „ 96 
 ,,123 
 ,,138 
 ,,148 
 „ 15.5 
 ,,186 
 
 2, 
 7, 
 28, 
 17, 
 12 
 last 
 „ 188 „ ,, 
 ,,198 „ 14 
 ,,208 „ 21 
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 Joi' Potatos read Potatoes. 
 
 „ studdings „ studding-sails. 
 
 „ washing „ washings. 
 
 „ andc ongratulating read and congratulating; 
 
 „ togqery read joggevy. 
 
 dele very. 
 
 after I insert to. 
 
 /or form. Wo read form, we 
 
 dele 
 
 Almendral 
 athoms 
 flamer 
 temporarily 
 the comma. 
 
 Almandral. 
 fathoms, 
 flammer. 
 temporally. 
 
i 
 
 Paffc 
 219 
 
 231 
 
 241 
 
 248 
 262 
 273 
 285 
 291 
 299 
 312 
 323 
 
 ;oe3. 
 
 ting-sails. 
 
 iiigs. 
 
 ad Riul congratulating; 
 
 rm, we 
 
 Iniandral. 
 
 thorns. 
 
 immer. 
 
 niporally. 
 

 f 
 

 ^ 
 
 I i! 
 
 :^ 
 
 ?-, 
 
TALES OF THE SEA. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 It was the most pressing portion of my father's advice 
 to me, on being first " launched on the wide world of 
 waters," to " keep a journal" — if the day of the month 
 only, " to note it," and " never to let it fall into arrears." 
 I have often, very often, heard him say " he would give 
 worlds," anything he possessed, if he had written a 
 diary when young, which would have aflForded him raan}^ 
 a pleasant hour of a wintry evening to have retraced 
 "byegone scenes," and "fought his old battles o'er 
 again." 
 
 '* My boy," says he (a few hours before our first 
 parting), " I'll give you a five pound note* if you keep a 
 journal while you're at sea." I have done so, but need 
 I inform my readers that I have not yet the '* five 
 pounds" I but ' have a far gieater reward, the satisfac- 
 tion of having by my side, while I am endeavouring to 
 place before my readers the passing incidents of ten 
 yeare in a midshipman's berth (which embrace a voyage 
 
 * An inducement to one on £13 a year. 
 
11 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 round the world, and in nearly all parts of the world) 
 Three YolumeSj measuring four and a half inches in 
 thickness, of closely written pages — scenes as they daily 
 occurred ; and more, after the noisy bulkheads of a 
 niid's berth and a hammock were forsaken for a gun- 
 room and cabin. I have a still larger volume more 
 closely written, from which I hope to gather some in- 
 structive notes, if these " leaves" <m finishing my 
 midshipman's career have not been found tedious or 
 unacceptable. 
 
 It was a very long time before I could be persuaded 
 to place my notes in print : but as I saw that two objects 
 may be gained (neither of them selfish ones), I was in- 
 duced to give way. The first is to illustrate to my young 
 readers the many changes, uncertainties, and vicissitudes 
 there are in the life of a sailor ; how it is chequered by 
 storm and by calm, by gladness and by sorrow ; and 
 liow he is watcheil and cared for in the many hair- 
 breadth escapes he has from death by a merciful and 
 overruling Providence ! and how truly it is said that 
 " Those who go down to the sea in ships and occupy 
 their business in groat watei*s, these see the works of the 
 Lord and his wonders in the deep." 
 
 The second object is, an inducement to keep a diaiy. 
 The gratification every one of my young nautical readers 
 must have in keeping a journal for reference years and 
 years afterwards ; if written daily it is no trouble, but 
 if allowed to get into arrears then is the trial I a great 
 deal is then left to the imagination, and a great deal 
 lost. I always wrote my diary before "turning in," if 
 only the day of the month, it was noted ; if a long yarn, 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Ill 
 
 i 
 
 w 
 
 
 t 
 I 
 
 '4 
 
 I had " half an hour's liglits ;" if my first watch, then I 
 wrote it in pencil on a spare leaf of my watch hill, until 
 my "watch helovv." 1 neve trusted to memory. 
 " Memory I found a fickle guardian/' and the moment 
 something interesting takes place, all gone before is lost. 
 
 If every one at sea wrote a diary, or kept a journal, 
 what a store of useful and interesting matter we should 
 collect ! Although nothing " but the blue sky" and 
 " green sea" to behold, I know no place or time more 
 "t for imagination and reflective thought, if those 
 thoughts were then committed to paper ; and nowhere 
 does man appear so alone with his Maker as on the wide 
 and trackless ocean ; and here is the spot for man to 
 contemplate the evidences of design of the great 
 Creator I 
 
 If it were possible to describe the pleasure and grati- 
 fication it affords me during leisure hours to open any 
 page of my " three volumes," and read over byegone 
 scenes and hours, recalling to memory events that could 
 never otherwise be thought of, I am convinced there 
 are many who would the moment these '^ leaves" are 
 unfolded to them, say, " I'm going to keep a journal," 
 and go forthwith and note down the day of the month 
 as a beginning. 
 
 I never seriously thought of pulling " leaves" from 
 my journal (although requested so to do) until long, 
 dreary, wintry evenings in a far north latitude became 
 wearisome ; it was then I did think it selfish to keep 
 hidden " scenes and incidents," which, if put in some- 
 what readable order, may while away an hour, at all 
 events on the water. 
 
IV 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 With this prelude, therefore, I do. uot perceive that it 
 is necessary to offer any apology for these "leaver." 
 Truth needs none, and truth I intend to be the type of 
 my book. It is not my intention to make u novel of it. 
 Novels are easily written, easily concocted, and as easily 
 sought after. These " leaves" contain nothing of the 
 imagination, the incidents are noted daily, and truthfully 
 extracted ; and now, having cleared the " ways" with 
 these few plain words, I knock away the " dog shores" 
 from under my little volume, and " launch" it on the 
 world, having truth for its guiding star. 
 
 On opening my MS. journal to extract the first " leaf," 
 I find the introduction says : — 
 
 " Dedicated solely to fond and attached parents. 
 
 " An imperfect and scattered diary of a midshipman 
 (their dutiful son), during a miserable existence of ten 
 years within the dreary bulkheads of a cockpit." 
 
 The object of the writer will be fully gratified should 
 the sfcenes and events of boyish days herein narrated 
 while away an occasional lone and dreary hour of a 
 wintry night. 
 
 " While pots and tiles and chimney tops are flying round, 
 Thank Providence, Bill, that you and I are sailors !" 
 
V, 
 
 LEAVES 
 
 FROM THE 
 
 DIAEY OF A MIDSHIPMAN. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 INTRODUCTION TO THE SERVICE. 
 
 SAM SCOTT — MY BOW — EXTER THE NAVT — FIRST NIOHT ON BOARD 
 — APPLE-PIE BED — DOCKYARD M ATEYS — HOSPITALITY — 
 STRICT OFFICERS — FIRST REBUKE — SECOND DITTO — AT SEA. 
 
 *' Cease, rude Boreas, blustering railer! 
 List ye landsmen all to me ; 
 Messmates, hear a brother sailor 
 Tell the dangers of the sea." 
 
 The first extract from my Journal contains an 
 incident connected with " Sam Scott " the diver, who, it 
 will be recollected, afterwards accidentally suspended 
 himself while endeavouring to imitate (too nearly) the 
 struggles of a dying wretch on the gallows, during the 
 loud and continued applause of the multitude. When 
 they were exhausted they beheld to their horror that 
 he had imitated it too truly, not to life, but death ! he 
 was a corpse I 
 
 On the afternoon of the eventful day that I had been 
 to admire the " wooden wall of Old England" that was 
 
 B 
 
SAM SCOTT. 
 
 
 in a short time to carry me from the land of my birth, 
 Sam Scott was to make a descent from the maintop- 
 gallant yard of a celebrated old Spanish line of battle 
 ship, and he was to fire two pistols and turn a somersault 
 while in the air. Thousands of persons assembled to 
 . witness this extraordinary feat ; the working-men of 
 Her Majesty's Dockyard obtained either a half-holiday, 
 or were permitted to retire from work earlier than usual ; 
 the tide was low, but flowing fast ; and the patches of 
 mud held numbers endeavouring to get as near to Sam 
 as possible ; many were wet, myself among the number. 
 Sam appeared at the yard-arm ; all was intense anxiety, 
 silence, and suspense, for Sam had kept us two hours 
 later than was expected. Close by my side stood some 
 dockyard matey s ; some with a plane under their armS; 
 some saws, and some with adzes on their shoulders. 
 One of the latter who had been standing near me (over 
 our boots in water) was considerate enough to look 
 behind, to see his adze did not touch any one. While 
 so doing, Sam leaped : the dockyard matey saw nothing. 
 I never beheld a countenance so blank ! 
 
 By-the-bye, I forgot to introduce myself to my 
 readers, and this must be done to atone for the boyish 
 scenes and tricks that will occasionally be brought to 
 light, especially during the younger portion of my life. 
 
 You can imagine a youth (an Irish youth) just let 
 free from school, thirteen or fourteen years of age, long- 
 ing to go to sea, and expecting every post to bring the 
 acceptable letter. Sharp, cute, and thoughtful ; his 
 outfit already packed in his chest ; the gold band, dirk, 
 and brass buttons on top ; and in hourly expectation of 
 
FIRST ENTRY. 
 
 3 
 
 being shipped ; raythev inclined to miscliief (not unlike 
 every other boy destined for the salt fja) ; and there is 
 but one thing in his favour — he already keeps a Journal, 
 and Mr. Samuel Scott has the honour of occupying the 
 veryjirat leaf. You now see in imagination the author 
 of these leaves. 
 
 About the middle of April, many years since, at 9'30 
 A.M., local mean time exactly, found me on board one of 
 Iler Majesty's ships, fitting out for the war in China. 
 At that eventful hour I paced the quarter-deck with 
 no small inward pride. On my walk forward I looked 
 up at the pendant that floated o'er me : on my return 
 aft I unconsciously found myself looking in the glass of 
 the poop windows, which reflected my gold band and 
 buttons. I there stood still and looked at myself, and 
 exclaimed, " Is it possible that I am at last a sailor ?" 
 I could have cried with joy. After being weeks, months, 
 and years, I iHay say, longing to be on boar 1 a " man- 
 of-war," now duly and regularly installed, the very first 
 thing I do is to ask permission " to go on shore." 
 
 I find nothing of any very great interest noted, 
 although all was new and exciting to me, until my 
 "first night" on board a ship. This I cannot pass 
 without an attempt at description, although mine will 
 give but a faint outline of the reality of the scene. 
 
 I happened to be passing the evening on shore, indeed, 
 as well as all the rest of my messmates who had no 
 watch to keep continually did in the hospitable seaport 
 where we had the good fortune to fit out. Leaving the 
 scenes of gaiety early (eleven o'clock), on imrpose that 
 I should enjoy the pleasures and prospects of my first 
 
 b3 
 
I 
 
 
 i 
 
 4 APPLE-riE BED. 
 
 night on board, I hurried down to the boat, and I well 
 recollect, and I say it to my shame, (we could get plenty 
 of boats, but no one to pull them), we took one without 
 oars, and, although the tide was running out strong, we 
 managed to paddle her alongside with the wash-boards, 
 shall I confess it ? after we got out, Ave let her go adrift 
 Of course, next morning there was a row, but no person 
 knew who did it. We were too wicked to confess ; but 
 we were not asked the question directly, or we should 
 have done so. On my way to the starboard gun-room 
 (we were then in a " hulk," and the port gun-room was 
 our mess place), I had to pass the j)ort gun-room, and 
 on the dresser, or buffet, 1 saw laid out, comfortably 
 snoring, one of our young officers on his back, with a 
 tallow candle burning in his mouth, the wick about 
 three inches from his teeth. This, I was told afterwards, 
 was a " preventive for snoring." I gave it an extra 
 screw to steady it as I passed, and on I went to my 
 hammock. The cockpit was all quietness and slumbers ; 
 the sentry >vas walking faithfully at his post. I dis- 
 robed myself, and walked to my hammock, placed one 
 foot on the handle of the amputation-table drawers, my 
 left aim on my hammock, gave a spring, and jumped, 
 and, oh, horror of horrors ! I found myself in bed with 
 two muskets, (the bayonets fixed), a frying-pan, a sauce- 
 pan, gridiron, skewers — in short, all the cook's " present- 
 use-traps," which had been lent (not particularly new or 
 
 clean) to fit out the mid's mess of H.M.S. . This 
 
 is what is termed ai 
 
 " apple-pie b 
 first night on board a man-of-war. 
 
 my 
 
 We were allowed an hour for our ablutions in the 
 
DOCKYARD MATKVS. 
 
 and I well 
 
 get plenty 
 
 )ue without 
 
 strong, we 
 
 ash-boards, 
 
 r go adrift. 
 
 t no person 
 
 mfess; but 
 
 we should 
 
 gun-room 
 
 i-room was 
 
 -room, and 
 
 jomfortably 
 
 ack, with a 
 
 vick about 
 
 afterwards, 
 
 t an extra 
 
 nt to my 
 
 slumbers ; 
 
 I dis- 
 
 aced one 
 
 it. 
 
 awers, my 
 
 jumped, 
 
 bed with 
 
 I, a sauce- 
 
 * present- 
 
 y new or 
 
 I—. This 
 
 s was my 
 
 IS in the 
 
 morning ; not that we spent all that time in scrubbing 
 ourselves. I well recollect our great delight Avas to sit 
 in the ports after we had washed, with our basins in 
 liand, ready to cai)sizo on the first unhappy dockyard 
 matey who came alongside. The mornings were rather 
 chilly (April), and I believe many of us washed and 
 used more soap, merely for the pleasure of lathering 
 these quiet and inoffensive men. I do not know why it 
 was, but we had a great " down on them ;" we also used 
 to collect potatos from the steward's dinner stock, and 
 pelt these men most unmercifully. Once I recollect 
 hitting the coxswain on the thumb of the hand he was 
 steering the boat with ; he reported the circumstance ; 
 there was an investigation ; but, as usual, we were not 
 found guilty 1 
 
 I now read, until the day of our final departure, 
 almost every page of my Journal remarking on the 
 hospitality, kindness, and attention of those by whom 
 we were surrounded during the three months we 
 were preparing and fitting for our long cruise. I would 
 wish to mention the names of several who would be at 
 once recognised by my naval friends ; but this I cannot 
 do, as it would do away with my original intention of 
 naming none, then, none can be offended. 
 
 It was my good fortune, as well as those around me, 
 to have for a Captain one of the strictest and at the 
 same time one of the most just officers in Her Majesty's 
 navy. We all knew how we had to go '* straight." (I 
 think there were fifteen youngsters on board.) We 
 well knew that if we turned to the right or to the left 
 from that straight path, we should " put our foot in it," 
 
FIHST HKHl'KK. 
 
 and wo soon t'ound it mure easy nnd more plutisani to 
 go tluit (liivct loiul, tluin by an iniliroct one. 
 
 We had one of the kindest and most gentle eom- 
 mandei's; in spirit u lion, in heart a lunib ; amiable and 
 oIKeer-like, hut striei on duty. Our First Lieutenant a 
 pattern of a sailor, ^ty young I'oatlers will therefore 
 eoneludo that our sehooling was good, and I do not 
 believe one of those fifteen ever regretted it. 
 
 Our ship was ready for soa, and wo wero taken to a 
 far oft' anehorage, to niake our final arrangements for 
 starting and wean us from the shore ; and while here, 
 our good-natured eommander allowed us a boat every 
 evening to pull round the harbour, and learn our first 
 duties in " managing boats, uiuler oars and sails." 
 
 lly this time I was fast learning the " ins and outs," 
 and the " ups and downs " of a ship in all her mystery, 
 and indeed there is a great deal to be learned ; moments 
 of thoughtlessness, however, sometimes occui', and in one 
 ,of these I subjected myself to a severe (as I felt it) 
 rebuke. 
 
 During a fine evening some of my young school- 
 fellows had come on board to say * Adieu,' and in my 
 anxiety and hurry to welcome them, 1 had forgotten my 
 caj), on coming up our good commander was pacing the 
 quarter-deck, and gathering himself up with a degree of 
 astonishment, placing his thumbs in the armholes of his 
 waistcoat, and throwing back his coat, says, ** you'll 
 catch cold sir/' " Oh no sir ! " I replied. " I think you'll 
 take cold," says he. " Oh no sir ! " I answered, " I'm ac- 
 customed to knock about without a hat." " Then," he 
 remarked, " if you wou't take a hint sir, go below and 
 
SKCOND DITTO. 
 
 put your cap on, and nover let mo ace you on tho 
 quarter-deck again witliout one," the hint was to mo then, 
 unniiHtakeabU; enough. 
 
 A few cvenin^8 after this, I was a^ain in grief, and 
 convinced me how many things I liad yet to learn re- 
 specting tho etiquette of a vessel of war, and how 
 ignorant I still was. I was comfortably and leisurely 
 leaning with both arms on tho hanmiock netting, con- 
 templating my future state, what I should do in this 
 world, and if ever it would be possible for me to bo a 
 Captain, when I was suddenly aroused by a voice I well 
 knew, asking " if he (tho Captain) should send his 
 steward up with a pillow for me to loan on ;" that was 
 quite sufficient, I paced the deck without venturing a 
 reply. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 SCENES AT SEA. 
 
 MADEIRA — DON FRITTOS — OPEN HOUSE — NEARLY LEFT BEHIND — 
 PUNISHMENT — A MAN OVERBOARD — CROSSING THE LINE. 
 
 O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea, 
 Our thoughts as boundless, and our soids as free, 
 Far as the breeze can bear, the billows foam, 
 Survey our empire, and behold our homo ! 
 These are our realms, no limits to their sway, 
 Oui- Hag the sceptre, all who meet obey ; 
 Ours the wild life, in tiimults still to range. 
 From toil to rest, and joy in oveiy change. 
 
 Corsair. 
 
 The day aiTived for our sailing, and on a lovely 
 summer morning we beat out against a sea breeze, in 
 company with another vessel of war, our own size, but 
 having left her far behind, a land wind took the place of 
 the sea breeze, and all studdings were set, and we bade 
 adieu to Old England for the first time, many of our 
 hearts sad indeed, until sea sickness compelled us to take 
 refuge in some secluded corner, where all else was for- 
 gotten, glad only to find a place to rest our heads. 
 
 The trip to Madeira, was one of real pleasure, a fair 
 wind and a smooth sea, and in reality nothing to do, as 
 
MADEIRA. 
 
 the old Siiying is, but " sit down and let the wind blow you 
 along." 
 
 Wo entered Funchal Roads, Madeira, early on a 
 Sunday morning, and it certainly was sufficient to make 
 any one declare they could be nothing else but a sailor, 
 the scene was most enchanting ; we had been trans- 
 ported in a short week from a cold and chilly clime to all 
 the warmth and luxuriance of the tropics. 
 
 It is not my intention to enter into a description of 
 this or any other place, where so many more able pens 
 have already traced its beauties, but there are one or 
 two "little" incidents which occurred to me on shore, 
 which I consider would be a lost leaf iu my Diary if I 
 allowed them to pass unnoticed. 
 
 Several young fellows, including myself, visited the 
 shore, of course the first foreign ground we had seen, 
 and, midshipman like, "jumped over a rivulet " and 
 "threw a stone," which every midshipman does on landing, 
 or used to do — I trust they are more refined now. We 
 had walked over all the town, peeped into the chapels 
 and the convents, looked at the Padres with suiijrise, 
 and purchased some feather flowers from the nuns through 
 the bars, had taken some country strolls, and drank 
 cheap wine at several huts and vineyards, and were on 
 our return to the ship, when we were met by a fashion- 
 ably dressed, and far too polite Portuguese, who handed 
 us a card, having on it : — 
 
 Don Fkittos, 
 
 2so. Rua de 
 
 Madeira. 
 
 and pressed us all to a visit at his dwelling, to which he 
 
10 
 
 DON FRITTOS. 
 
 conducted us, and to which, being young midship- 
 men, we said "yea," rather tlian "nay," that is, much 
 pressing was not necessary Wc entered an exceedingly 
 nice house, cool, and surrounded by clusters of grapes, 
 hanging even inside the windows; we thought it un- 
 commonly kind, and more than once said to each other, 
 " well, this is enjoyment, this is worth coming to sea for." 
 Wc had spread before us deliciously cool melons, grapes 
 of many sorts, varieties of other fruits, and varieties of 
 cooled wines, and to complete, one daughter entered the 
 room, was introduced, and immediately went to the 
 piano; a second entered, went through the same cere- 
 mony, and took up her guitar; both commenced charming 
 us : the time passed too quickly, and although we were 
 * mids.,' we had a little innate modesty, and the same 
 feeling occurred to each more than once, this is so kind, 
 we won't eat or drink much, although the fruit was 
 tempting, and the cool wine more so ; our time had 
 passed, and we rose to depart. Each cast a glance at 
 the other, a glance not to bo misunderstood, are we to 
 pay for this ? and who is to propose the question 1 a very 
 delicate question indeed. Our host left the room while 
 we were deliberating, but soon again entered, and allayed 
 all our fears and anxieties, by placing before us : — 
 
 To Don Frittos, Rua de , Madeira, 
 
 Fruit and Wines for seven . . 18 pistreens* 
 
 Paul, I). Frittos. 
 
 " Adios !" said he, "happy to sec you all again soon." 
 Many of my youn;^ messmates, should tliis ever fall 
 
 * A pisti'con is tonpoi 
 
OPEN HOUSE. 
 
 11 
 
 into their hands, will well recollect the circum- 
 stance. 
 
 The music, I must add, was gratis. 
 
 The next day many of us dined at the most liberal and 
 hospitable table in Mad Ira, it is well known to whom I 
 allude, by all who visit that lovely Island. I don*'t for- 
 get what siu:prise I felt at seeing a huge pinnacle of 
 " iced strawbeiTies," brought on the table after dinner ; 
 I could not then have thought it possible that such a 
 dish could have been raised in so warm a tomperature. 
 But I do not either forget my surprise and astonishment 
 when we went to walk on the house after dinner, to see 
 my ship with all sail set, leaving the land as fast as the 
 light evening breeze would allow her; I snatched up my 
 cap, forget if I said adieu, rushed to a boat, and after 
 pulling some time, picked up my vessel nine miles from 
 the land ; in my haste, 1 forget if I was reprimanded, no 
 doubt I was, but in the excitement forgot it all. 
 
 I shall have many more pleasant reminiscences to 
 narrate about Madeira ; I have been there three times 
 since, under more favourable circumstances — have not 
 accepted Mr. Frittos' pressing invitations any more, but 
 have always received the same pressing hospitality from 
 those whose names it is unnecessary to mention, but 
 whom all sailors know so well. 
 
 It was my duty to witness, for the first time, punish- 
 ment in the navy : three men had been found guilty of 
 drunkenness, and sentenced to receive three dozen lashes 
 each, with a cat'o-nine tails, on the bare back. 
 
 The day is fixed for punishment according to circuJii- 
 stances and convenience. At a'lx bells, ] 1 a.m., the 
 
I : 
 
 i> 'I 
 
 12 
 
 PUNISHMENT. 
 
 boatswain is ordered to pipe " clear up decks " (this is 
 half an hour sooner than usual) ; the officer of the 
 watch is informed there is to be " punishment ;" he 
 directs the mate of the watch to inform the ward-room 
 oflficers, and the mid. of the watch to inform the gun- 
 room officers. The master-at-arms and corporals are 
 dii'ected to see the prisoners dressed properly and placed 
 under a guard ; the carpenters are ordered to rig the 
 gratings, to which the culprits are to be seized up ; the boat- 
 swain and his mates to see the " cats " and the <' seizings" 
 ready. The officers all dress in undress coats and epau- 
 lettes, cocked hats, and swords; at seven bells (^half- 
 past eleven), the mate of the watch reports the time to 
 the commander, the commander to the Captain, who says, 
 "strike it," and "pipe hands to punishment;'* the com- 
 mander sends for the boatswain, and orders him to " pipe 
 hands to punishment," to which his mates respond, and 
 at the same time the sentiy is desired to " strike the bell;" 
 a. few minutes ^previous to this, the marine officer sees the 
 guard on deck, and reports it so. 
 
 At the time that the hoarse and gruff voices of the 
 boatswain and his mates call "hands to punishment," 
 all the officers and men in the ship appear on the quarter- 
 deck, the prisoners are brought before the Captain who 
 reads to them (every one with his hat off) the warrant 
 for punishing, which contains every particular of the 
 offence noted and signed by the officers who make the 
 complaint and the witnesses ; hats are all put on again 
 and the Captain says " strip," this order obeyed, is fol- 
 lowed by " seize him up" which is instantly done by the 
 quarter-masters ; when this is finished the man's shirt is 
 
 .■■t| 
 
PUNISHMENT. 
 
 13 
 
 thrown over his back by tlie master-at-arms, when all 
 hats being again taken off, the Captain reads the Article 
 of war which the prisoner has broken and for which he 
 must be punished; all hats are again placed, the shirt is 
 withdrawn from the back and the boatswain who always 
 gives the first dozen is ordered by the Captain to " do his 
 duty." If the man is to be punished for theft, a * thiers cat\ 
 which is knotted at the end of each tail, is used; if other- 
 wise, plain tails. After the tails are placed out, in order 
 that they may be the same length and no twists in them, 
 the boatswain lifts the cat and inflicts the first lash, when 
 the master-at-arms counts ** one"" aloud, the surgeon and 
 assistants stand close to the prisoner in order to report to 
 the Captain if the man can bear his punishment ; after the 
 first dozen lashes, the Captain says, " boatswain\smate" 
 who also gives his dozen, and then a third, when the Cap- 
 tain says " cast him off." The others then take their 
 punishment in the same order; after it is all over, the 
 Captain orders the " pipe down ;" the prisoners are taken 
 to the sick berth where the doctor administers to their 
 sores, they are then placed under charge of a guard until 
 evening, when they are dismissed. 
 
 I have seen some men take their three and four dozen 
 lashes without a murmur, others I have heard cry and 
 scream, and swear in a most awful manner ; some put 
 a bullet in their mouths, and after punishment is over 
 it is bruised to atoms : they fancy it alleviates the 
 pain. 
 
 The fall of the cat with the heavy arm of the boatswain 
 makes a truly horrible sound on the bare back, which 
 when over is crossed and cut in all ways, and the back 
 
I'll 
 
 Ml 
 
 'I 
 
 ii''! 
 
 iii 
 
 14 
 
 MAN OVERBOARD. 
 
 then resembles raw beef, more than the back of a human 
 creature. 
 
 I never can forget the deep impression that witnessing 
 the first punishment had upon me, I thought it so out- 
 rageous, so inhuman, so cruel, so unnecessary. I have 
 since learned human nature ! and it has convinced me 
 how impossible to command or govern hundreds of men 
 (the ship I was then in had upwards of 700) of all 
 tempers, of all dispositions, from all places, of all callings 
 and characters, brought together indiscriminately into 
 the small space of a ship, without something that they 
 will fear, and if laid aside no officer is safe on board his 
 own vessel ; it may be used as a last resource, but never 
 altogether done away with. 
 
 I have not before seen in any book the detail of 
 " punishment" on board a man-of-war, and I have here 
 endeavoured, as well as I can recollect, to illustrate to 
 those who may be ignorant on this point, that there is a 
 regular system to be observed, and forms gone through, 
 before punishment takes place ; and that it is not, as 
 many suppose and believe, inflicted in a moment at the 
 caprice and temr ^r of the Captain or Commanding 
 Officer, but with deliberate care, for the benefit, dis- 
 cipline, and good order of England's glory — her Navy ! 
 "A MAN OVERBOARD ! ! !" 
 
 Of all the exciting appalling cries at sea to which the ear 
 is compelled to listen, that of a man overboard claims the 
 mostenergetic andimmediate action ; none strikes the heart 
 with more sudden awe, and none know but those who 
 have heard that dismal cry what a thrill of excitement it 
 causes ; it has been my sad lot to witness this very often. 
 
MAN OVERBOARD. 
 
 15 
 
 and to imagine the voice of Him wlio watches over all, 
 call on them at a moment wh<^n they least expected, 
 " Now is thy soul required of thee." 
 
 The first time I witnessed a fatal scene of this descrip- 
 tion was on a fine day within the tropics; we were 
 " running down the N. E. Trades," between the Cape 
 Verd and Canary Isles, all sail on, the vessel goin^ 
 thro' the water about four or five knots; every one was at 
 their daily occupation and a party scrubbing the ship's 
 side as it was Saturday, when the cry went through the 
 ship a " Man overboard I" 
 
 It is fortunate that throughout the service even dur- 
 ing a trying scene of this description that all is regular- 
 ity, order and discipline, instead of every one (700) rush- 
 ing to the ship's-side and boats to see what they may do. 
 All at this moment go to their stations, where they have 
 been long before appointed, some to shorten and trim 
 sails, some to man the boats, one to the life-buoy, which 
 ia at once let go, others to the helm, and some aloft to 
 keep their eye on the man ; the ship is now ready for 
 any evolution, and it is now that the nerve and decision 
 of the officer of the watch is required ; before an instant 
 had elapsed, the ship was rounded to, sail shortened, two 
 boats lowered, one dashing fellow (who I regret to say is 
 now no more) had jumped off the poop, and another 
 gallant fellow had jumped out of a port, risking 
 their lives to save that of a fellow creature. 
 They were all late ! for the unfortunate boy had sunk at 
 once, and was never seen again. Thus in latitude 2** 
 north, and in longitude 16** west, is the grave of a youth 
 who, though only a first-class boy, was married, and left 
 
I'it 
 
 Hi< 
 
 I 
 
 ! W ! 
 
 ! 
 
 ! 
 1 
 
 
 \ 
 
 i i 
 
 i 
 
 
 |: 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 16 
 
 CR<>,s:';iNO TIIK LINE. 
 
 a wife and two children to mourn their loss ; tand thus he 
 was " called " without a moment's warning, to meet his 
 Maker face to face, and give an account of his past life. 
 
 After an hour's vain search, the boats were hoisted 
 up, sail made, and the ship again running on her course. 
 
 All were now busily employing themselves for crossing 
 the line ; some making wigs, rigging out 'Neptune's 
 carriage ', preparing pills and smelling bottles, sharpeih- 
 ing razors, and the barbers trimming oflf the " Bond 
 Street locks " of the boys, &c. 
 
 The evening before crossing the line, Neptune paid 
 his children a visit at eight o'clock. We, the uniniti- 
 ated, were called up on deck. The ship was hailed by 
 Neptune, " Ship ahoy ! " to which the officer of the 
 watch replied, and immediately shortened sail and hove 
 to. Other questions were asked by the god of the sea, 
 such as, " Where are you from ? " " How many days 
 out ? "and ** Where are you bound ? "to all of which replies 
 were given. He then came on board, surrounded by 
 attendants, and with torches lighted. The instant he 
 put his foot on deck, (all of course endeavouring to 
 got as near as possible,) down came showers of water 
 from the tops, which were full of men with buckets, engine 
 hoses, &c., playing away on us, until every one was 
 drenched, squirting water in our eyes and faces till we 
 could not see where we were, or where to go. This 
 continued about half-an-hour, when Neptune, after in- 
 forming us that to-morrow he would " pay his respects," 
 left the ship in a blazing tar barrel, which was not lost 
 sight of for some time. The ship then made all sail and 
 resumed her course. 
 
CROSSING THE LINK. 
 
 17 
 
 It is not my intention now to occupy pages with a 
 description of " crossing the line," which has so often 
 and so vividly appeared before, bnt one or two incidents 
 wliich happened to myself may be noted here. 
 
 We were all busily and anxiously looking out next 
 morning with our spy-glasses for the ** line." 
 
 Neptune arrived at ten. The pendant was hauled 
 down, and the ship handed over to his tender mercies. 
 
 It came to my turn. I was brought up by four " police" 
 from the lower deck, where 370 of us had been secured 
 who had not before passed through the ordeal. Before 
 coming on deck, a wet swab, tarry and greasy, not very 
 clean, was placed over my mouth, and around my neck, 
 to prevent my " getting cold." On arriving on deck, I 
 was asked my name, and on opening my mouth to 
 immediate obedience, a tar brush was put into it, not of 
 tar alone, but all manner of indescribable mixtures. I 
 was led to the platform, where I was seated before 
 Neptune, who asked " how 1 felt ? " In attempting to 
 reply, the tar brush was insinuated again. The lather 
 commenced, of the same mixture, grease, tar, &c., put 
 on with something very harsh ; the razor, an iron hoop, 
 jagged, was applied ; the doctor observed, I was rather 
 faint, and the smelling bottle, (a cork with several sail- 
 needles,) recommended, which revived me. I was asked 
 several questions during the operation, but had now 
 learnt to keep my mouth shut. After I had been 
 shaved, I felt a gentle pressure on my breast, and an 
 elevation of my heels ; I was thrown back into a sail 
 full of water, six feet deep, where four " bears" were in 
 attendance, growling, roaring, pawing, and hugging me 
 
 c 
 
IH 
 
 (•U(>SSIN(} THK MNi;. 
 
 nljoiit under water, until I could scarcely breathe, indeed 
 several times I took in both air and water, which was 
 anytliing but pleasant ; about this time too, the bears 
 began to get somewhat merry and careless, merry, on 
 the collections they had made from several who were 
 assured a few days previously, that if they came with a 
 " straight arm," that is, witli a bottle of rum in it, they 
 were sure to be " eased off" most gently ; need I assure 
 my young readers that those did meet with the greatest 
 attention, and were heartily well scraped and soused for 
 being ^*so green." After having passed through my 
 ducking, I was permitted to join those wlio had the 
 privilege of shaving, and I now beheld Neptune and his 
 wife in all their glory, seated on a carriage, leaning on 
 his trident in solemn dignity Upwards of 370 
 passed through their ordeal that day. The ensign was 
 again hoisted before sunset, and Her Majesty's ship once 
 more on her voyage. There are many most amusing 
 occurrences connected with " shaving/' but they are all, 
 I have no doubt, well known. All I can vouch for is, 
 that some who were rather " rusty " were served out 
 most unmercifully ; others were " eased off." The 
 logs and journals of those who said they " had crossed 
 before/' were most minutely examined and enquired 
 into, and I am sure not one escaped ; and as I have 
 said before, upwards of .370 were that day shaved on 
 crossing the Equator. 
 
*s, merry, on 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 ROAD TO CAPE TOWN— CHINA NEAV8 — AWFUL ACCIDENT — FTJNERAI. 
 AT SEA — EVENING BAND— GALE OF WIND — MALACCA— SINGU- 
 LAR OCCURRENCE. 
 
 Between this and the Cape of Good Hope, where we 
 arrived exactly one month afterwards, nothing Avorthy of 
 note occurred ; and we dropped anchor in Simon's Bay, 
 which appears to us during this season the most deso- 
 late, wild, and dreary spot imaginable. 
 
 Here every midshipman drives his " tandem." A long 
 sandy road on the water's edge of 25 miles nearly 
 carries you to Cape Town, the capital of the Colony. 
 The greater part of the road being sand on the left, and 
 water on the right, enables the unsteady mid. to guide 
 his " tandem " without fear. I never heard of any fatal 
 accident except the inconvenience of getting horses and 
 trap into the quicksands, which are in almost every 
 gully, and then having to walk back some miles. 
 
 This road takes you, after passing the noted half- 
 way-house of " Farmer Peck," through the attractive 
 and Englified villages of Wineberg and Constantia, 
 the latter famous for its delicious wines and grapes, the 
 
 c2 
 
20 
 
 <HINA NRWH. 
 
 former for being the country residenco of several wealthy 
 people of Cape Town, who are most kind and attentive 
 to strangers, if they are fortunate enough to know them, 
 or to obtain an introductory letter to their houses. 
 
 I shall have reasons to speak of these places, by-and- 
 bye, from experience, having had already five or six visits 
 to the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 Here on our arrival, we had China news informing 
 us of its still unsettled state, and which urged us to 
 hasten our departure so as to enjoy some of the rewards 
 and benefits of the war. The moment the weather, 
 which was a continuous S.E. gale, lulled, we put to sea, 
 and we had not departed many days before " r^ail ho ! " 
 was descried direct from China, not only confirming our 
 former news, but giving us much more recent. 
 
 SAIL HO ! 
 
 " When o'er the silent seas alone, 
 
 For days and nights we've cheerless gone, 
 thoy who've felt it, know how sweet. 
 Some snnny morn a sail to meet." 
 
 So eager were we all to be let loose like the " dogs of 
 war," that most of our spare hours were passed in sharp- 
 ening and brightening our swords and dirks with holy- 
 stones and brickdust, and oiling the locks of our pocket- 
 pistols. Alas ! there is seldom a pleasure without a 
 sorrow ! and we were now unwilling spectators of another 
 awful instance of sudden death, another appeal to one 
 who had not an instant for prcpnration. 
 
AWFUL ACCIDKNT. 
 
 21 
 
 We wore nil pacing the deck a few days after leaving 
 Cape Town, talking over our young and gay, but 
 thoughtless scenes, while they were yet fresh in our 
 memories ; our impressions and our feelings passing from 
 one to the other, the evening fine and not a stir but the 
 flapping of the sails against the masts, waiting for a 
 breeze ; when one of our smartest and best sailors fell 
 from the main-top, his head striking on the bits, dash- 
 ing his brains out ; his death was instantaneous ; another 
 of the sudden visitations from Him who holds our lives 
 Nvithin his grasp. Here was no warning, no preparation, 
 no anticipation of such an event. Does not this teach 
 us a lesson ? In an instant — Eternity ! 
 
 The next evening at sunset, when everything was 
 calm and silent, and all around seemed hushed in stillness, 
 as if prepared for the melancholy moment, the bell 
 tolled, the lifeless remains of our lamented shipmate were 
 brought to the gangway, the funeral service read over 
 his body, and when the words were repeated, "we there- 
 fore commit his body to the deep," he was launched into 
 the fathomless waters ; a chilling thrill of horror ran thro' 
 every frame, not a trace was to be seen, but a few 
 bubbles, which arose from the seaman's grave. I cannot 
 resist quoting the following lines, they so well describe 
 the awful solenmity of a sailor's funeral. 
 
 I. 
 
 The moon rode high in the cloudless sky, 
 The ship o'er the billows rolled, 
 When silent and slow we bore from below 
 The corpse oi oiu" shipmate Jack. 
 
i;i t 
 
 f)0 
 
 ITNKUAI \V SKA. 
 
 II. 
 
 Oil the gniting pliiood, in his hummoi'k lnood, 
 Tho onsif^n tloiitod o'vv him, 
 
 We thought of his worth, but no wonls found hiilh 
 To tell tho love wo bore him. 
 
 111. 
 
 Wo woijfhtod him woll with shot ami shell 
 
 ThiH fur beneath the wave, 
 
 Mis slte|) mij!;ht be secure and free, 
 
 In tho deep, deep eoral oavo! 
 
 IV. 
 
 Awhile we stood in inusinfi: nuutd, 
 'I'hon lauiu'hed him o'er the side, 
 And wt> mournfully took a partiii;;' look 
 As he sunk in the «lark blue tide. 
 
 V. 
 
 S(>mi> bubbh>s arttsi' from his place of repose, 
 And as quickly forever lied, 
 Wo shed but one tear, yot that was sincere, 
 One sigh for tho honored dead. 
 
 VI. 
 
 I,et the st>a-brd -.v'ail, and tho stormy rail, 
 And the roar of the ocean's wave, 
 Suiifj: (h<ep and lon|jj a funeral son^j; 
 O'er the seaman's trackless jjravo. 
 
 Tliis u>c!;Miclioly ovont. took plaoo on tlio aunivorsary 
 
 • 'Diese liiie» are, if I remember rif;hl, from Diinlin'sSta Sonjis 
 
<iAI-K OV WIND. 
 
 ss 
 
 of the battle of Ntivarino, and the funeral on that of thu 
 battle of Trafalgar. 
 
 The sooner tlieso melancholy events arc forgotten on 
 board a ship the better ; a sailor leading so peculiarly 
 isolated and solitary a life, it is part of a captain's duty 
 to keep their spirits up, and not to allow them to de- 
 spond. This is generally done 1 believe, and it is astonish- 
 ing, t!' )' through no want of love or res])eot for the de- 
 parted, how soon everything is forgotten, and an hour 
 atterwanls ilack is passing his joke, as if life wore all 
 births ami no deaths. 
 
 Our good eoniniandtM', always anxious that our time 
 should pass pleasantly, has allowed us the band every 
 tine evening to havo our dances on deck; it passes an 
 \\o\\v or two agreeably, it atfords us exercise, an. I 
 temporal oujoyment, and between the Cape autl China 
 Avc have had many a Jolly evening, although deprived of 
 almost the only source of enjoyment, tlu« *'fair;'' i\'* it is 
 said, **none but the bravo deserve the fair," I am 
 sure if tht^ could oidy see us whetting our swords all 
 lu)urs of the day, and preparing for action it wouhl be 
 sulHcient to command their smile of apj)robation. 
 
 'V\w fi.'sf (jale at sea after a ship's commission puts all 
 to rights, and puts everything in its place; "all settles 
 down," but we would rather (lis))ens(> with tlie gale, for 
 besides putting evervthing in its place, niany things aro 
 displaced, and we all personally sutler in broken 
 glass and broken crockery, ami sometimes brolien 
 bones. I shall not forget o\ir lirst gale, scudding under 
 a reefed t'ore-sail and a storm-staysjiil, about oO or (iO 
 miles north of Si. PiiuTs and Amstt-rdam, in the South 
 
24 
 
 A (iAf,i;. 
 
 m !• 
 
 Seas, all jxats 1)iutimI in, luid all liutclies butleiied (.lowii, 
 every coming sea threatening to overwhelm us, ham- 
 moi'k nettings washed away, sashes stove in, and no- 
 thing but a wind- sail giving ventilation to hundreds of 
 unhappy beings, sea-sick between decks. A body had 
 been passed and several casks and portions of wreck, 
 telling how some had suffered. It is in the midst of 
 these scenes that a sailor looks back to home, regrets he 
 ever was so rash as to leave it, would give all he pos- 
 sessed to be landed even on a rock where ho would feel 
 steady. 'Tis now that "men see the works of the Lord 
 and His wonders in the deep;" it is now they arc con- 
 vinced of the existence, (if they doubted it 1 'or. fa 
 Being everywhere present; it is now they "fly ij lianfor 
 refuge." "They stagger too and fro like drunken men 
 and are at their wits' end?" "Thev call unto the Lord 
 in their trouble, and lie delivers them out of their dis- 
 trcHS." "'Phey are carried up to the heavens and down 
 again to the earth, their souls melt within them ! " 
 It is now that the mighty hand of Providence may be 
 seen following us, aiid protecting our frail bark from 
 every threatening wave, until we arc brought safely to a 
 "haven whero wii would be," )r left in such tranquility 
 that we forget we were ever in a storm. 
 
 The ship is now approaching tlie Straits of Malacca, 
 and we know it because of the frecpient thunder anil 
 lightning with heavy rains and s([ualls for which these 
 Straits arc so proAcrbiid; we an- visited during these 
 gusts, when oft' the land, by handsome king-fishers, 
 white and black, (spotted,) grey on the back, and nmch 
 larger than the common English bird, but similar in 
 
 
 * 
 ■^ 
 
SINIJVLAH OC'C'UIUtKNl'K. 
 
 25 
 
 form aiul liabits ; these are >velcome visitors after being so 
 long at sea, anil it affords us amusement catching them 
 for one of our officers, wlio prides liimsolf on taxidermy. 
 
 ^Ve had entered the Straits, the "Piratical Straits," and 
 uere compelled to ancho" for the night, it being danger- 
 ous to move about diu'ing such heavy squalls, and diu*- 
 ir.g such vivid thunder and lightning, to which all sail 
 had to be shortened frequently, therefore we lay snug 
 I'or the night, and I forgot to say in company \vith one 
 of Her Majesty ""s Ships from China. 
 
 During the night rather a strange occurrence took 
 ])lace, which nearly proved fatal to one of our warrant 
 officers : perhaps he had been drinking Her Majesty's 
 health, j)erhaps not; however, he was walking along the 
 forecastle, as he thought, and intended to go into the 
 head, when instead of being on the forecastle, he was on 
 the main-deck, and went out of the bow port, and 
 brought up on the "cat hook," which was overhauled 
 for "catting the anchor," next morning; had he not 
 fortunately hooked on to this, nothing could have saved 
 him, he would have descended quietly into the stream, 
 and no person would ever have been able to have nar- 
 rated the final act of this deluded warrant officer I 
 
 i 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 IXDIA AND CHINA. 
 
 SINGAPORE — BTTGOIES — TALLAWAN PASSAGE — N.E. MONSOON — A 
 REGULAK MESS — MY FIRST I'UNISIIMENI' — A SHARK — STEAMER 
 IX DISTRESS — HONG MONG — CHRISTMAS DAY. 
 
 P 1 
 
 Orang Malayii t' ada jadi baik lagi, bagita bagitu jiiga sa-lalu. 
 
 Arrived safely at Singapore, an island only a few 
 miles north of the Equator. The ship had a thorough 
 refit preparatory for the trial we were to have of beating 
 up the China Sea against a fierce N.E. Monsoon. 
 
 This delay gave us many opportunities of walking 
 round the place and seeing the customs and manners of 
 the two countries, which makes the island half Indian 
 and half Chinese, with a dash of Malay, and gives^ one 
 a very good idea of both the former. Many a dollar 
 .v^as here squandered in " Buggies," neat four-wheeled 
 cars, drawn by smart Timor ponies. The midshipmen 
 could not walk : they must ride. Certainly, the sun 
 was oppressively hot. 
 
 I could hardly reconcile myself to the fact that we 
 were at war with those people by whom we were then 
 surrounded. The first merchant in Singapore is a( hina- 
 
PALLAWAN PASSAGE. 
 
 27 
 
 man ; and a fine rouud-fiiced, laughing, hospitable, and 
 honest follow he is. He is well known to all sailors 
 who have been here ; if you wish to taste' curried 
 prawns and cool claret to perfection take a walk to his 
 country house. 
 
 Sailed from Singapore with at first a fresh and favour- 
 able wind, but to which we gradually shortened and 
 reefed sails as we approached the limits of the Monsoon. 
 It was an intricate and dangerous passage to attempt, 
 especially the Pallawan passage, so little known. Here 
 the boiling " Rob Roy" shoal, and the " Royal Captain ;" 
 there the "Sovereign," with the sea beating and roai'ing 
 over it in all its fury; but wc still felt we had a "Watch- 
 ful Pilot," our " Guide," who had already brought us 
 out of many dangers into safety. 
 
 I have said before we were kept strict and straight at 
 our duties on deck. I must also add we were kept in 
 right and tight order in our mess, the gun-room. We 
 had a senior Mate whose look was sufficient to strike 
 terror into every one of us, and a caterer who would 
 scarcely allow us the fumes of wine, and certainly not 
 oven the look of spirits, and who made us each assist 
 him in a portion of the work which devolved on him 
 as caterer. Punctually at one-bell (half-past eight) the 
 " fork was stuck in the beam," and we all (youngsters 
 who had not been four years at sea) closed our books 
 and retreated to our hammocks, without even a look of 
 disappointment — we knew what we should catch if wo 
 did. Afler dinner, on any particular occasion (and, I 
 think, Sundays), wc were allowed to drink Her Most 
 (Jraeious Majosty's health, and then [trivilegod, like the 
 
I 
 I 
 
 \i 
 
 r I Hi! 
 
 i If 
 
 28 
 
 MY FIRST PUNISHMENT. 
 
 ladies, to retire. Our schooling was perfect, and we 
 ])rofitcd by it afterwards. 
 
 My first punishment was for " whistling on the lower 
 deck." I had been keeping the morning watch (a cold 
 one, too) from four until eight, and had gone to the 
 cockpit to wash and dress myself, to be ready for break- 
 fast at one-bell, to which I was looking forward, hungry 
 and sharp, after four hours' washing decks. While 
 scrubbing my face, &c., I was whistling some quick 
 tune, to assist me in my movements (whistling or 
 humming a tune does often assist, if time is kept to it), 
 and, unfortunately for me, at that moment the com- 
 manding officer was going his rounds. He said nothing 
 then, but, on arrival on deck, called the Quartermaster, 
 and desired him to tell me he wanted me on deck. As 
 quick as I could arrange my dress, I was before him on the 
 quarter-deck. "You were whistling below, sir." Well, 
 now I did not know whether I had been whistling, or 
 not, but considered it the safest plan to venture *• Yes," 
 not knowing what was in store for me. "Yes, sir I" 
 *' Theii go on the maintop-gallant-yard, and look out for 
 land, and when you see it, come down and report it to 
 me." We were then two thousand miles from any land. 
 Up I Avent, and there I gazed patiently and anxiously 
 until four p.m., when, on his coming up from dinner, 
 I suppose in a better humour, I heard him call out, 
 " Maintop - gallant - yard there." " Sir," I replied. 
 " Come down." Down I came, and touched my hat. 
 " Do you see land, sir." " No, sir," I replied. " Then 
 never let me hear you whistling on board a man-of-war 
 again." This was a trial for mo ; not the punishment, 
 
A SHAKK. 
 
 29 
 
 but because I was naturally very fond of music. The 
 trial of going without anything to eat from four in the 
 morning until four in the evening, after being sharpened 
 up by the morning watch, was also a severe test of 
 patience ; and woe be to the unfortunate individual who 
 was found conveying me victuals under such circum- 
 stances. 
 
 This would have been thought sufficient by some to 
 make me 
 
 " Curse the fatal day, 
 When I from home was led astray, 
 
 In this dark hole to dwell. 
 Had I but at sweet Ireland stayed, 
 I might have learnt some honest trade, 
 
 And shunned the white lapelle ! " 
 
 But, no ; on me the effect was different. I looked on it 
 as a philosopher, and made a most hearty supper. 
 
 While working up between the islands and shoals 
 with which this passage is strewn, the jolly-boat was 
 lowered, to sound what appeared to us a shoal ; but it 
 turned out to be a baulk of timber, forty feet in length, 
 and surrounded by hungry sharks, two of which followed 
 the ship all day, until a hook was thrown overboard, 
 with a small pig on it, and one of them was caught. 
 On opening it there were found in its stomach a man's 
 shoe (having the heel of the foot still in it), a pig's leg, 
 &c. Some of the shark was broiled for supper, and 
 many partook of it. It is astonishing to see with what 
 avidity and pleasure sailors cut up and tear to pieces a 
 shark. It appears to be their only enemy, and they 
 torture it in every manner possible ; cut oft' its tail and 
 
M; 
 
 30 
 
 HONG-KONO. 
 
 III 
 
 j 
 
 fins, put broad arrows* all over him, and send him adrift ; 
 it lives for some time in this state, strugglinf» on the 
 surface of the water. 
 
 On crossing over to Hong Kong from Luzon, we met 
 one of the Hon. Company's steam vessels in distress, 
 having no provisions, no water, and having burned all 
 her bulkheads, &c., for fuel. We had the pleasure of sup- 
 plying her with all she required, except coals. She had 
 been three months from Bombay, and had undergone 
 all the vicissitudes and trials of a distressed vessel. They 
 must soon have perished if this relief had not so timely 
 appeared. 
 
 Arrived safely at Hong Kong Island, which consists 
 only of a few fishing huts. Our first duty was to keep 
 up a Christmas Day, the first we had passed together ; 
 and it was " kept up," if noise, confusion, eating, and 
 drinking constitute the meaning of keeping up Christ- 
 mas Day. We visited some of the prize junks which 
 had been taken during the war, and were now in charge 
 of prize crews ; then went on shore, and found the 
 town consisting of pigs, ducks, rats and filth. Next day 
 sailed for Chusan, to meet the Commander-in-chief ♦ 
 
 Again we had to go through all the toil of working 
 up against the Monsoon. Sometimes it blew very hard, 
 and would only allow us to carry a close reef main-top- 
 sail on the cap and a main- stay-sail. However, we 
 succeeded, and, after one-and-twenty days, were in 
 company with the Admiral and squadron at Chusan 
 Island. 
 
 * The Queen's Mark. 
 
 I I 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 CHINA. 
 
 CnUSAX — THE AVAR — CHrXESE NEW YEAR — VALUE OP A HEAD — 
 KIDNAPriNG — XAKROW ESCAPE — INfJENIOUS TRAP — POOTOO — 
 LETTERS FROM HOME — BATTLE OF CHAPOO — SJIALL FEET — RE- 
 SURRECTIONISTS — ACTION OF AVOOSUNG — SHANGHAI — YANG- 
 TZE-KEANG — SESHAN — PICTURESQITE SCENERY — CORPORAL 
 AVHITE — GOLDEN ISLAND — ROCKET HANGS FIEE — CHIN- 
 KEANG-FOO — SUN STROKE — PRISONERS — SUICIDE — LOOT — 
 FALL IN THE RIVER FATAL — BOATS AVITTI EYES — NEAV-XKEN. 
 
 Ai a ! kom to man ngau. 
 
 Having arrived at China in safety after being nearly 
 seven months on our voyage, found Avar Avas still pro- 
 gressing, from the indecision and cunning of the High 
 Commissioners, on the part of the Chinese ; all the ships 
 Avere ready for immediate action, and Ave Avere ready to 
 join them, and should liaA'ebeen very sorry if it had been 
 all over without our gaining any of the laurels, after so 
 long and tedious a voyage. 
 
 The description of the " War in China " having ap- 
 peared in so many forms before the public, by skilful and 
 professed Avriters, I do not intend trespassing Avith 
 anything like a repetition, it Avould occupy more space 
 
32 
 
 ririNKsE NEW yp:.vu. 
 
 and leaves than 1 am disposed to devote to it, and it 
 would be but telling the same story ©""er again ; but there 
 are many interesting and amusing incidents in connec- 
 tion with this war, which I am sure cannot have been 
 described, and one or two of these before I have done 
 with China I must narrate, even at the risk of being 
 thoufflit tedious. 
 
 The 1 1 th of February is the Chinese New Year's day, 
 all shops are closed for nine days, and every one we meet 
 is comfortably drunk with opium and samshoe; fireworks, 
 torches, and lanterns are burning, and Chinamen rolling 
 about all night in the streets, constitute the enjoyment of 
 the New Year. We find that the authorities are kind 
 enough to offer ten thousand dollars for the admiral's 
 head, one thousand for any British oflRcer's, and one 
 hundred for a barbarian's. This is a pleasant notice to 
 greet you on taking your walks on shore, and shows our 
 respective values in their estimation. 
 
 During a short stay here of ten days, eight men have 
 been kidnapped, in some instances they have been at- 
 tracted into houses of ill repute, others into drinking 
 houses, and in one place, a lascar was found with a bam- 
 boo thrust down his throat, for convenience in carrying 
 him, with a bag by his side ready to put him into, for 
 conveyance to the city walls ; the Chinese behaved with 
 frightful cruelty to some of our men. 
 
 One Sunday afternoon, two of my messmates with my- 
 self, were taking a walk through the Chinese burying 
 ground, between the north and west gates of Chusan, 
 where we narrowly escaped being shot. There are 
 ridges about two feet high, running through a causeway, 
 
 1 1 
 
 .1 
 
ingkni()t;s thap. 
 
 n3 
 
 are 
 
 and on one of these we were walking " single file," when 
 wo heard the report of a gun close by ; we took no notice 
 of it except turning round; presently "ping" came 
 a bullet, and struck the ridge we were walking on, 
 and now all thought it high time to quicken our paces. 
 We were unarmed, very thoughtlessly, and the iire 
 came from behind one of the graves. We had a most 
 narrow escape. 
 
 A very ingenious trap was laid for our Interpreter, who 
 had been on shore, and which very nearly proved fatal to 
 him. He was accosted by an old woman, who, weeping 
 bitterly, told him her husband had been dreadfully ill- 
 using her. In the goodness of his heart he said he would 
 inquire into it, and she led him to a house, and showed 
 him into a room, begging him to be seated, and she would 
 bring her " wretched husband " before him. Very few 
 minutes had elapsed, when up blew the room, with the 
 poor old fellow and his orderly ; flooring, furniture, every- 
 thing went to pieces. He was much burned and bruised, 
 as well as his domestic, and they considered themselves 
 very fortunate to escape with their lives. This is an in- 
 stance of their cunning treachery, and there are many 
 others. 
 
 The Island of Pootoo, or ** Worshippers," was visited 
 by some of our people, in the "Nemesis " steamer. The 
 devotees voluntarily give themselves up to all manner 
 of privations, tortures, and self-persecutions, for their 
 Joss' sake. One victim v/as sitting in a recess in 
 the temple, existing on one grain of rice daily. It 
 could not be ascertained how long he had been there, 
 or how long that morsel would support life. One 
 
 C 
 
34. 
 
 POOTOO— LETTERS. 
 
 i! 
 
 ;i. 
 
 11 
 
 of tho visitors put his finger to the cheek and pressed 
 it, and it was some time before the flesh resumed its 
 form again ; I was told it was like touching putty, or 
 dough, apparently lifeless. I never could get an 
 opportunity of going to this strange place, but oflen 
 wished it. 
 
 What a cheering prospect the first letters from home 
 bring over the feelings ; relatives, friends, long since left 
 behind, we have not heard anything of. It is now nine 
 months, the mail is announced, and no one can possibly en- 
 tertain the feeling, but those who have experienced it, 
 what excitement it causes everywhere, and in every one. 
 The mail bag is taken on board the Admiral's ship 
 (every moment appears now an hour), the letters are 
 sorted, and the signal made, " Send for letters." The 
 boats return, and the letters are again sorted ; every eye 
 is glancing at letter after letter, as it is passed over; everv 
 one with a black edge or seal causes a cold shiver ; .■ 
 last thd fortunate get letters, the less fortunate none, and 
 console themselves that ** no news is good news ;" the 
 unfortunate, a letter with black border — a parent, a rela- 
 tive, a fr.end, is dead. Nine months have caused sad 
 changes ; but oh ! to see the blank, disappointed, un- 
 happy faces, almost amounting to grief, in those without 
 letters or news, who had buoyed up all their hopes for a 
 letter; no one knows it, no one can feel it but those 
 only. However, it soon passes over, and good news and 
 jokes are interchanged. "Cheer up, ray boy," one says to 
 another ; '* I'll sell you my letter for a penny when I've 
 read it.'* Letters frou» home are read over and over 
 again, and replaced in the pocket each time, until their 
 
eir 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 Q. 
 
 :t: 
 o 
 
 C) 
 
 ..J 
 
 -r 
 
 1.3 
 
CHAPOO. 
 
 35 
 
 worn-out state renders it imposs.'Me to keep them any 
 longer together. 
 
 On the 18th May, the ships were in position hefore the 
 Forts of Chapoo, and commenced the action at nine 
 in the morning ; the guns had been shotted, the boats 
 hoisted out, and the ship cleared for action the night 
 previous. A " Chop " was sent to the inhabitants asking 
 them, " to surrender;" if they would not, to take all wo- 
 men and children out of the town immediately. 
 
 This was the first time we were under fire. There was 
 no feeling of dread, but rather revenge, at seeing our 
 men fall around us. In the heat of the engagement with 
 a glass might be seen, wherever the eye traced, Chinese 
 rolling dead over the hills: others rushing frantically into 
 the sea and drowning themselves; while some were 
 actually cutting their own throats, and blowing them- 
 selves up with powder. 
 
 The result of this battle is well known. The lamented 
 remains of the Colonel of the 55th, who was killed 
 during the action, were committed to the deep next day 
 wifh military honours.* 
 
 A Captain of the 55th also died soon afler of his 
 wounds. 
 
 The women are remarkable for their small feet ; they 
 are compressed during infancy with bandages of linen, 
 which stops the circulation of the blood ; by this the toes 
 are pressed under the ball of the foot, and it ceases to 
 grow. Some say this is done to pre , nt them running 
 away from their husbands ; others T^r beauty ; but it is 
 
 • In passing round Chapoo next day I picked up the " Queen 
 of Heaven " in the streets. 
 
 T>2 
 
36 
 
 SMALL KEET. 
 
 painful to see a female waddling like a duck through the 
 streets, endeavouring to balance herself by keeping her 
 arms extended. Neither the Tartars, nor those millions 
 living on the water, subject their children to such 
 torture. 
 
 The shoes are from two and a half to three inches long, 
 and I was some time doubtful whether these were really 
 worn by the ladies, until an instance occurred which 
 made me no longer doubt it. After the battle of Chapoo 
 we passed through the town, and in one house, a very 
 respectable one, we were induced to go upstairs. On the 
 top step I found a pair of neatly embroidered shoes, two 
 and a half inches long, and quite warm ; they had just 
 been kicked off by the frightened wearer, who thought 
 of nothing but her escape when she heard our entry 
 into the house. 
 
 On our arrival off Woosung, a few days after the 
 attack on Chapoo, much to our astonishment, nineteen of 
 the men who had been kidnapped at Chusan and 
 other places were sent to us under an escort of two 
 Mandarins and sixteen soldiers. Many of these we had 
 given up for ever, without the most distant hope of 
 again seeing them. 
 
 The excitement now begins to get very great ; all the 
 small vessels and steamers are chasing and taking junks, 
 firing through their matting sails, in the neighbourhood 
 of the Ruggod Islands, where we also very nearly lost 
 one of our small steamen^, by striking on an unknown 
 rock. 
 
 We find the river crowded with junks, and the forts 
 well manned and armed, to all appearance well prepared 
 
' 
 
 
c 
 
 S; 
 a. 
 a 
 ai 
 w 
 
 sh 
 
WOOSUNO. 
 
 37 
 
 for us. There are also several steamer junks with four 
 wheels, worked by manual labour, and mounting four 
 guns each ; at the head of the river are many w r junka. 
 
 On the 16th June, the vessels of war were towed be- 
 fore the Forts of Woosung, and at seven the action com- 
 menced. Only 200 yards from the shore, the frigate of 
 the senior Captain had the post of honour, and on board 
 her one of the lieutenants peeping over the hammock net- 
 tings to see how things were progressing, had his head 
 taken completely off by a round shot Our guns at so short 
 a distance appeared to do awful execution ; all their shot 
 passed over our hull, having their guns trained and se- 
 cured by sand-bags, for the buoys outside us, to which 
 they imagined we were going to make fast. Our rigging, 
 masts, and sails suffered most ; and it was curious to see 
 the sails where they had been hit by a shot on the folds 
 completely perforated when they were let fall. After 
 two hours and fifteen minutes' constant firing the forts 
 were silenced. We had only five men killed and ten 
 wounded. 
 
 Shanghai, the great emporium for silks, was also taken 
 without much loss of life on our side. 
 
 After a refit and a short delay, the squadron and 
 convoy ascended the Yang-tze-Kiang river, sixty-two 
 sail of vessels, a sight never before witnessed by the 
 astonished Chinese. We passed Harvey Point, where 
 a young mid. of the Conway, some time previous, met 
 an untimely end, having been murdered by the Chinese 
 while he was on a shooting excursion. 
 
 Nearly all the vessels, including also the line-of-battle 
 ships, shared the fate of getting on shore on a nm<l flat 
 
38 
 
 GRAND SCENERY. 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 at a sudden bend of the river, near Soo-choo-foo, with 
 the dirty and troublesome duty of liauling off again. 
 Next day the Forts of Seshan were taken, after a feeble 
 and ineffectual rasistance. 
 
 We now began to feel the serious effects of indifferent 
 water, and a burning sun of one hundred degrees in the 
 shade. 
 
 The scenery of this noble river ah'eady assumes a grand 
 and luxuriant aspect. On suddenly opening the city of 
 Chin-keang-foo, which stands at the entrance to the Grand 
 Canal, you pass Silver Island, with Golden Island not far 
 in the distance, both towering with fantastic pagodas of 
 many stories in height among trees and evergreens; 
 shrubs of the most exquisite tint and verdure, the blue 
 and purple mountains in the distance, backed by a cloud- 
 less sky of azure blue — ^blue in reality from the clear and 
 rarified state of the atmosphere ; it is as impossible to de- 
 scribe the splendour of the scenery so as to do it justice, 
 as it would be for an artist to paint it ; hundreds of vessels' 
 masts showing above the land, and the sea population in 
 the greatest excitement in their junks and sampans at 
 our approach. On anchoring off Chin-keang-foo, we 
 did not allow even a boat to move ; bang ! whiz I went a 
 shot ahead of them, if they persisted, then into them. 
 The tides here are very strong, and require much tact 
 to manage your vessel. 
 
 Our old, but not much esteemed friend, Corporal 
 White, a nick-name given him by the sailors, pays us 
 another visit (our first was at Chapoo), from " Elepoo," 
 and he now comes with the same old story, " 'Spose you 
 put no plum in your gun, then Chinaman put no plum. 
 
GOLDEN ISLAND. 
 
 09 
 
 
 make great bobbery, and send Chop to Emperor." We 
 had by this time begun to know Mr. Corporal White, and 
 it required much tact to evade his cunning proposals. 
 
 At each mouth of the Grand Canal, and at every 
 estuary, creek, and inlet, a vessel of war has been 
 stationed, to prevent the possibility of an enemy's vessel 
 escaping. The Union Jack was planted on the highest 
 story of the Pagoda on Golden Island, by a favourite 
 and gallant officer of the Admiral's ship, amid the shouts 
 and cheers of the squadron. 
 
 A capital and funny story is told of this zealous officer. 
 While at Chusan the boats constantly exercised with 
 their guns and rockets. It is a general order, and well 
 understood, that '' if a rocket hangs fire all hands are to 
 jump overboard until the rocket explodes." They were 
 not on this occasion firing rockets, but merely exercising, 
 in the course of which, the order, " Rocket hangs fire," 
 was given. This officer and his well-disciplined crew 
 immediately go overboard; and soon after return to the 
 ship, wet through of course. I did not see this, but I 
 heard it told frequently, in a very humorous and 
 amusing manner. 
 
 The Chinese being still stubborn, although nearly 
 seventy vessels were at tlie entrance of their Grand 
 Canal, the near approach to their capital Pekin, and 
 within a short distance of their ancient capital Nankin, 
 threatening immediate destruction ; it had no efiect, and 
 on the 2 1st July, the city of Chin-keang-foo was taken by 
 assault. A breach in the wall, and a gateway blown in, 
 soon made an entrance for our troops, which was, how- 
 ever, hotly contested by the enemy. In the streets the 
 
40 
 
 (illN-KEANG-FOO. 
 
 Chinese troops were very numerous, and on many oc'i- 
 sions were only four or five yards apart from ours, when 
 of course the slaugliter was very great. We had about 
 59 killed and I04i wounded, and many who suffered from 
 the heat of the sun ; 39 fell dead on the field from a 
 coup-de-8oleil. The Chinese actually brought our 
 wounded men down to the boats. The second person 
 who escaladed the walls, (the first having been shot dead) 
 was an officer now high in rank in the service, very 
 dashing and much esteemed. He was saved by his brace 
 button, a bullet having struck it, cut it off, causing a very 
 slight wound. One of the boats suffered much, having 
 been cut off in a canal, and surrounded by the 
 enemy, who wounded 3 officers and 14 men ; one brave 
 young fellow, who had command of the boat when his two 
 superior officers fell wounded, but who, while I am 
 putting together these leaves, I read has finished his 
 mortal career covered with wounds. The men who were 
 not killed were about to desert, when he stood on the 
 stern sheets, cocked his pistol, and threatened to shoot 
 the first man who left the boat. Their relief soon 
 arrived ; he was then (juite a little fellow, still wearing 
 the ** white patch." 
 
 Here also the Major of Marines fell a victim to the 
 excessive heat of the sun. He was brought on board 
 the ship, the temple artery opened, but he died in a few 
 minutes. Golden Island became his grave! Several 
 prisoners have been taken, some of importance, at least 
 their dress and button would say so, and the only way 
 we can secure them is in threes, by their tails, fastened 
 to the breechings f»f the guns. They will not sacrifice 
 
HOIUUFYINU SCKNE. 
 
 41 
 
 their tnil, it is the greatest disgrace to be without a tail, 
 but if they can manage to slip, which they have done on 
 some occasions, they go overboard, sink, and rise no more. 
 They prefer this end to an uncertain fate. 
 
 During the engagement the scenes that were jnacted 
 in the streets and houses baffle all description. Whole 
 families threw themselves into wells ; in many houses 
 were seen families hanging to the beams with a stool 
 kicked down which had formed a drop ; in others were 
 persons — men, women, and children — with the ropes and 
 strings actually round their necks, waiting for a last mo- 
 ment to push the stool from under them on which they 
 were standing. On several occasions women were dragged 
 out of rivers, canals, and gutters by our men, but re- 
 turned at once when released and completed the suicide 
 they were so determined on committing. This was all done 
 fearing they would fall into our hands, where they fancied 
 a worse fate awaited them. The scene the day after, when 
 I walked round the town, was horrifying. Strict orders 
 were given that no "looting" was to take place, but now 
 and then might be seen a pious mid., with a Chinaman 
 carrying a box before him. ciis tail twisted round his wrist, 
 and a })istol cocked at his head, walking quietly down to 
 the boat, perhaps carrying his own property from his 
 own house ! 
 
 Several of our men have of late accidentally fallen 
 overboard, and it is strange, are never seen again ; the 
 under set is so strong they are carried beneath and rise no 
 more. Many have been the instances of persons falling 
 overboard, and I have never known one to have been 
 seen to rise iiguiii. (^ne day, 1 well rocolject, they were 
 
 M 
 
.42 
 
 FALL OVERBOARD — FATAL. 
 
 scrubbing the ship'H side, and a boy was going over the 
 gangway with a bucket of sand ; he slipped, fell into the 
 water, I watched with the greatest attention and anxiety 
 to see him rise, but no! he never rose again. 
 
 In the bow of every junk of 700 or 800 tons, down to 
 the smallest sampan, are seen very large painted eyes. 
 I was curious enough one day to ask a Chinaman, who 
 could speak English pretty well, what they were for ? He 
 replied without hesitation, "'Spose no got eye how can 
 see?" I was silent. 
 
 We received a very polite message from New-Keen, 
 General commanding Nankin, to ask our demands; 
 "that they wished for peace, but he was determined to 
 defend the rights of his Emperor to the last." 
 

 o 
 
 I 
 
( 
 
 CHAPIER VI. 
 
 NANKIN. 
 
 INTEnCEPTED DESPATCH — PROCLAMATION — CHOLERA — CHINO AND 
 CHANO — CHOP FROM NEW — DEATH DAILY — PREPARATION 
 FOR ASSAULT — ELEPOO ARRIVES — TREAT FOR PEACE — HOSTILI- 
 TIES StrSPENDED — VISIT OF THE IMPERIAL COMMISSIONERS — 
 PRISONERS RELEASED — MY NEW SHIP — ILLNESS — TREATY 
 APPRO>'ED — NUMBER OF SICK — WATER POISONOUS — PORCELAIN 
 TOWER — emperor's PRESERVES — A MIDSHIPMAN DROWNED — 
 TREATY FOR PEACE RATIFIED — CHOP — PREPARE FOR SEA — 
 DESCEND THE RIVER — CHUSAN. 
 
 The squadron anchor off the ancient capital, Nankin, 
 in 25 fathoms, about one and a half mile off an angle of 
 the outer walls, but not more than twenty yards from the 
 shore. The embrasures and heights are swarming with 
 troops, some on horses, waving their banners in defiance, 
 the brilliant Porcelain Tower topping far above the 
 hills, and sparkling its shining exterior in the sunbeams. 
 One of the boats intercepted a despatch from Te-chu-pu, 
 commanding the Tartar garrison of Nankin, to the Em- 
 peror, and its quaintness and originality induce me to pre- 
 sent it translated, as follows: — **The troops that escaped 
 from Chin-keang took shelter in Knang-Kin and Tan- 
 yang, nearest district towns S.E. from Chin-keang. The 
 
h 
 
 41 
 
 INTKIU'KI'TKD DKSPATOH. 
 
 Liout.-Qcn. Hailing dieJ shortly after thcloss of the city, 
 leaving a son and daughter, who were concealed by one 
 of his domestics, named Hwang. The soMiers of the 
 'Ising chow Brigade aiding in the defence of Chin-keang, 
 also retired to Nankin." He says, "as soon as the bar- 
 barian invasion is a little over-past, arrangements shall 
 be made for the refugees to come to Nankin, who are 
 now some at Soo-choo, and some at Chang -chow ;" they 
 also say, " that when the rebellious barbarians attacked 
 the city they resisted them with all their strength and 
 courage, and killed many of the fo.'eigners, and that 
 had the reinforcements from other provinces (at that 
 time outside the walls), come up to their aid they would 
 certainly have inflicted a very severe chastisement on 
 them. All the best and fresh troops are with the teiTor- 
 spreadlng general, Ye-Klng, who has his head quarters 
 at Chang-chow, 500 lo from Nankin." This, I think, 
 will be perused with interest, and not without a smile : 
 the "dying" of Hailing, the "retiring" of the troops, 
 and the severe lesson we were to be taught if the "aid" 
 had only appeared. 
 
 A proclamation was now issued to the inhabitants of 
 Nankui, and an offer made to New, Goveraor and 
 Chief Magistrate of Kcung-Nan an«' So, offering to 
 accept the sum of three million dollara as a ransom, and 
 not enter the city. An interview was requested by 
 New, but rejected on our part. 
 
 The cholera is beginning to make a sad inroad among 
 our numbers. Several have already fallen victims to it, 
 living only a few hours after the attack. This, with the 
 disorders occasioned by the heat of (he svm, bad water. 
 
CIIOLKUA — CHING AND CHANG. 
 
 4ft 
 
 and a most virulent fever and ague, is sorely felt, and 
 droops the spirits of all. 
 
 Again wo had a visit from two white-button 
 Mandarins attended by several brass buttons, with 
 Chops, ike, to say that *'tho venerable Elepoo had 
 arrived from Pekin, with authority to treat on our 
 terms." This we mids. christened "hurabuf;," a very 
 comprehensive term it will be allowed. In reply to 
 our proclamation, these two white-button "chaps," whose 
 names were **Ching" and "Chan^" were bearers of a 
 "Chop" from New, Governor-General of Nankin, tho 
 three provinces, and Secretary-at-War. He said, " The 
 money in the treasury was for the payment of tho 
 soldiers, and that he could not think of taking that 
 for the purpose of what we termed a * ransom.'" Thou 
 came a long yarn about ** good faith and sincerity, on 
 which he plumed himself;" and then a rigmarole story 
 about " peace ;" he then offei*s to pay us " 100 dollars 
 for each mile, each ship would withdraw down tlio 
 river," at the same time bringing presents, baskets of 
 fruit, Imperial tea, silks, &c., I forget where thcho 
 presents went to. 
 
 A notation is now made in my journal to this effect : 
 ** It is truly awful that scarcely a page of my diary 
 opens without a black margin, denoting that death, 
 the ** King c't Terrors," daily seiz(;8 on his prey ; that one 
 or more during the night or day pass to their long and 
 last homes, a visitation of Divine Providence on those 
 called to obey His summons. If we had time but to 
 reflect, bow thankful ought those to be who are spared ; 
 and what a lesson to us to ** watch and pray," to pray 
 
 t 
 
■ 
 
 DEATH — ELKPOO ARRIVES. 
 
 alway that we may be among those on His right when we 
 are called, to have said to them — **Come, ye blessed 
 of my Father, inherit the kingdom prepared for you 
 from before the foundation of the world." 
 
 The ships had taken up their final positions for the 
 assault of Nankin, the troops were landed, the plan of 
 the attack matured ; the walls off which the Flag-ship 
 lay at a distance of 1400 yards were actually measured 
 with a bamboo 33 feet high. Joss Hill was formally 
 taken possession of, which commanded the Tartar portion 
 of the city ; and a council of war held on board the 
 Flag-ship, 
 
 Elcpoo arrives, and is the cause of breaking up a 
 grand dinner-party, but is politely informed ** if he does 
 not produce documents to prove his authority before 
 day-light next morning he will be handed over to the 
 tender mercies of the Commander-in-Chief 1" 
 
 Sunday intervened, but early on Monday, before day- 
 break, "chops" came off, stating that Elepoo and Keying, 
 High Imperial Commissoners, were duly authorized by 
 the Emperor to come to our terms ; and the fact was, 
 they really were ; the documents were formally perused, 
 taken to the Emperor for approval and we shall soon 
 see " Peace with China !" 
 
 Hostilities having been now suspended (and I 
 must say some of us were disappointed, for we fully 
 made up our minds to see the interior of Nankin), the 
 High Imperial Commissioners visited the authorities on 
 board the Flag-ship. Having been one of the favoured 
 few youngsters who were allowed to be eye-witnesses, I 
 must say it was a novel spectacle ; every one appeared 
 
 
 
■ 
 
 IMPERIAL VISIT. 
 
 47 
 
 in full dress : Iler Majesty's Plenipotentinry, the Admiral 
 and General, and all Commanding Officers, &c. A small 
 steamer and barges were sent for the Commissioners, 
 and at noon precisely they arrived, and were saluted 
 with a Chinese salute of three guns. Up the accommoda- 
 tion ladder came Elepoo and Keying, the High 
 Imperial Comissioners, New-keen, Governor General of 
 Nankin, the Emperor's uncle, and a numerous train of 
 red, white, and blue-button attaches ; the Tartar General 
 and his train arrived soon afterwards. The venerable 
 Elepoo had from feebleness and age to lean on two 
 of his attendants. They were introduced individually 
 to the heads of each department by the Interpreter. 
 After they got in a good humour in the Admiral's cabin, 
 ward-room and gun-room, foi each had a portion to 
 look after and *' stuff," they were shown round the 
 ship, but expressed not the least surprise, and hurried 
 by the guns very fast They were asked if they would 
 like to see one exercised, but they would not hear of 
 such a thing ; " they would not give us the trouble for 
 the world." It was five in the evening before they 
 were all gone. The cherry-brandy in the mids.' berth 
 appeared to open their hearts and brighten their 
 intellects, and with those who were of course only 
 the lacqueys of the tmin, there was some good fun. 
 
 The Chinese prisoners after the visit were all set 
 free, with five dollars in each pocket, and they chin- 
 chinned, bowed heads, and knocked foreheads on the 
 decks for a long time after in grateful acknowledg- 
 ment. (See 2 Chron. vii. 3). 
 
 I was now appointed to another vessel going home, 
 
 i 
 
f 
 
 48 
 
 MY NKW SHFP. 
 
 a smaller one, and as it makes you a " big officer" goiiif; 
 to a small ship, I did not much regret leaving old and 
 some very esteemed messmates ; and the feeling of joy 
 tliat I was going to a ship, the first for England, made 
 me forget almost the novel scenes and old friends of 
 my first happy days at sea. Moreover, I must add that 
 my removal to another vessel bound for England was 
 in consequence of my health having much suffered from 
 a long illness. I was the first to take fever after leaving 
 Singapore, from a boyish and thoughtless indulgence in 
 that delicious i'ruit for which Singapore is so famous, 
 the pine-apple ; and for which you only give one dollar 
 and a half for a boat-load. Many ships scrub their decks 
 with them, the acid whitening the planks. They can be 
 eaten to any amount before breakfast, but in the sun 
 during noon-day I have learned a lesson ! 
 
 The Treaty of Peace arrived, approved and signed, 
 and a Royal salute proclainned that joyful event from the 
 squadron. 
 
 I have now led my young and patient readers to 
 Nankin. I have detained them there for some time, 
 longer indeed than I ought to have done, but I am sure 
 that many of the scenes I have endeavoured to describe 
 never before appeared in print, therefore I may be 
 excused for so doing ; and as sickness now is raging to 
 a fearful and fatal amount, and I am among the sufferers, 
 I must take leave of the ancient capital. First I will 
 show the number of sufferers in each vessel, and then 
 before I finally start I will take my young readers to the 
 top of the Porcelain Tower of Nankin. 
 
 The signal was made every morning from the Flag- 
 
 f 
 
 'iS 
 
to 
 
 be 
 to 
 irs, 
 vill 
 len 
 the 
 
 lig- 
 
 i 
 
 NUMBER OF SICK. 49 
 
 ship, " numbers of sick ;" on the 26tli September it was 
 us follows : — 
 
 The Hag-ship 230. 
 
 A steamer 7o and botli doctors. 
 
 A stcara-frigato 114. 
 
 A frigate 130. 
 
 A corvette 52 and 8 officers. 
 
 The remainder of the shipping in proportion. It was 
 time indeed to leave ; one ship had to borrow men from 
 another to weigli her anchors. A great deal of sickness 
 was caused by being compelled to drink the water from 
 alongside, which, passing through swamps and decayed 
 vegetable matter, was most injurious. The wells on shore 
 were poisoned, at least we were informed so frequently, 
 and although the truth of it was never practically tested, 
 it would have been a dangerous experiment to have 
 drunk from them ; the Chinese were well up to all these 
 cunning devices. 
 
 Now for a trip to the " Porcelain Tower." A party 
 was formed of seven from my ship, which was afterwards 
 increased to nine by our having called alongside a far- 
 famed steamer in this expedition ; and while there, her 
 gallant Captain had added to our stock a half-dozen 
 basket of champagne. Before day-dawn we started, and 
 had to pull 1 4 miles up a canal to the right of the city, 
 where in the suburbs we found " The Tower." We 
 had to pass the city walls within ten yards, which were 
 here about 40 feet high; on the ramparts of which were 
 hundreds of astonished troops, wondering at our pre- 
 sumption in approaching so near the celestial paths. 1'his, 
 however, did not interrupt our progress. On the right 
 
 E 
 
50 
 
 PORCELAIN TOWER. 
 
 M i 
 
 bank forming the canal were pretty cottages surrounded 
 by evergreens, interspersed here and there by tall rushes. 
 About seven miles up this canal, the heat of the sun 
 compelled us to "heave to" under the arches of a 
 handsome and substantial stone bridge, leading to one 
 of the city gates; and here we demolished a light tiffin. 
 Three miles further was another bridge, equally good, 
 composed of five arches, and here we first beheld the 
 lofty Porcelain Tower. Here we disembarked and 
 walked up to the city gate, which was immediately 
 closed on our approach, and we returned to our boat. 
 A third bridge was passed about a mile above the last, 
 and here we landed on the suburban side of the canal, 
 and walked about one mile through the streets, which 
 were thronged to suffocation by curious multitudes, 
 trying to get a peep at ua Traffic was going on at a 
 brisk rate, and this was the first time we had seen an 
 uninterrupted town.* 
 
 Ttie compound or square was entered, and we 
 soon found the entrance gate. Several steps led 
 to the doors, and the floor of the first story was occupied 
 by huge corpulent josses, 20 to 40 feet in height (from 
 estimation by our own heights, but we had no means of 
 measuring them.) A narrow winding stair led us to the 
 balcony of the ninth story, which took us all the fore- 
 noon to ascend. The view from this was charming, and 
 quite exceeded all we could have anticipated ; it was 
 
 * The gardens and preserves of the late Emperor are on the 
 opposite side of the river to Nankin, enclosed by walls and bas- 
 tions, 18 miles in extent. We walked to them one fine evening. 
 Wild boam arc hunted and speared here. 
 
i 
 
 i 
 I 
 I' 
 
 '^»l^tft1f?^T/ '. 
 
 'l"^-« 
 
 i>'3 
 
 ^<^f#S^> " 
 
 jVa 
 
 
 ^^i^-H"" 
 
 TpRVfis -JW^JW* 
 
 PORCELAIN TOlVER AT NAN tMNC 
 
 .'n<<vi 
 
PORCELAIN TOWER. 
 
 51 
 
 worth coming 22,000 miles, as we all had done, to see 
 this alone. 
 
 Before we stirred one inch we sat down, drew forth 
 the " half-dozen basket " our kind and well-known 
 friend had presented to us — cut the stnn^s, and, amid 
 three true hearty cheers, drank Her Moat Glorious 
 and Gracious Majesty's health. Lonr^ may she live ! 
 and may we all be promoted I (you see we did not 
 forget ourselves). We had to drink one more toast- 
 that of our esteemed Captain — — , (I Wcos just going 
 to mention his name, but that would not do), the gene- 
 rous donor of the champagne. 
 
 We walked round the balcony. The exterior of the 
 tower is entirely porcelain, covered witii all manner of 
 curious devices, elephants, lions, tigera. dragons, and 
 figures much like " Punch," and other indescribable 
 antediluvian monsters. From this we had a most exten- 
 sive view of the city of Nankin, surrounded by three 
 walls; the outer, 32 miles in circumference, the city 
 enclosed in the inner one. The houses are thickly packed, 
 with the exception of one or two of a very superior sort, 
 perhaps Government offices, which have a small garden 
 in the centre; the "joss-houses" very conspicuous. 
 We descended, and having laid out our dinner on marble 
 and porcelain slabs, made a hearty meal, and again 
 drank health to our beloved Queen ; we did not appear 
 to care how often it was. 
 
 Englishmen, in particular, have all the bump of 
 destruction very prominent ; they never visit an ancient 
 building but they must have a piece, a small bit for a 
 relic, and a bit to give away if asked for, and a bit in 
 
 E 2 
 
r>-2 
 
 MinsmrMAN DIJnWSF.n. 
 
 I 
 
 
 j> 
 
 case tlioy mIiouKI 1u8o the oilier bit ; und so it is Rtnall 
 bits each, and bits every oiio. After a place lias become 
 visited frequently it is perfectly destroyed. Some; 
 even take pickaxes, geological Iianuners ; arm tliernselvert 
 before starting with the full intention of being destructive. 
 This ancient, picturesque, and beautiful building was not 
 exempt : visitors had taken, some an eh-phant's face or 
 flragon's tail; another, a lion's paw; another, a whole sla)) 
 of porcelain ; until the facings of the upper story hail 
 been quite disfigured. The tower had lately undergone 
 ft thorough repair, and I forget the almost fabulous sum 
 we were told it cost to do it, something enonnous. Of 
 course a complaint was soon made, but too late, and 
 visitors afterwards had to obtain passj)orts before they 
 Avould bo admitted to view this celebrated tower. 
 
 We returned very late, y y fatigued, but very much 
 pleased with our tour. 
 
 There was a strict and positive order in my late ship, 
 that ' " no person should sleep about the decks, or in the 
 open air." This was little attended to, from the extreme 
 and oppressive heat at night, and the myriads of mos- 
 quitoes, which precluded all rest. Many chose rather to 
 undergo the punishment for disobedience of orders, than 
 be suffocated below, and the blood taken from them drop 
 by drop, by these constant and attentive persecutors. 
 All manner of "dodges" were resorted to for a "cool 
 billet," and after the commanding officer had gone his 
 last rounds for the night, every mid., and every one who 
 couhl not stay below, might be seen with his straw mat 
 and pillow rushing for some bearable spot for the 
 night. It was during one of these nights that a 
 
 • 
 
 
TUEATY OF PKACK. 
 
 53 
 
 ool 
 his 
 ho 
 Tint 
 
 most mehmcholy nccidciit occurred to a fine and pro- 
 iiii.siiig young officer, lie, like somo of tho rest, had 
 elioHon the main chains for a rcsting-phico ; and, ilnring 
 tho night, ho fell overboard and sank immediately ; of 
 course iiis hody was never found. It (juite cast a gloom 
 over us all. Another suddenly " called " in the youth of 
 his years to stand before his Maker ;uid give an account 
 of himself, tried and condemned by liis own works ; 
 " Those that do well shall inherit everlasting life ; tliose 
 that do wicked, everlasting misery." Another solenju 
 warning to us to prepare. 
 
 The Treaty of Peace arrives from Pekin, fully and 
 finally ratified ; tho S([uadron dress and fire a royal 
 salute; the Lieut-General is invested with tho ensignia 
 of a G.C.B., at which all attended ; jis well as our old 
 friend, Te-clui-pu, the Tartar General. He got rather 
 inquisitive after his lunch, and asked the Admiral how 
 old he was ? "Sixty-one," replied the Admiral, " fifty of 
 which 1 have been a sailor." Ho said, '■ What a brave 
 man you must be to continue so long in such misery." 
 
 In one of the "chops" accompanying the Trtiity 
 was the following quaint and Oriental communication 
 from one of the Commissioners : — 
 
 '^^ Good faith is what is held in the highest esteem by 
 " tho honourable country (speaking of China) ; sincerity 
 "is that on which the Governor-General most plumes 
 " himself. In his communications there was not a word 
 " other than right feeling and reason, that might not 
 " stand before tho bright light of heaven's sun ; or bo 
 " brought forth into the presence of gods and spirits ! " 
 
 The Flag-ship makes the signal to us, " Prepare for 
 
51 
 
 PItEPAUK von SKA. 
 
 P 
 
 ; 
 
 Sou." Ni'viT was tlu'tv a sii^nal so jt»yrully rt'trivecl, or 
 so <|uic'kly answered as tliat ; a thrill of (Kli^lit ran 
 tlirou<^li cvi'ry oiu' (»!' uh ! lor our nuinlH'i-M wrm liiHt di*- 
 crousiiio; liy sicknt'ss ami doatli. A\'e •lri'a(U'<l the former 
 always much m(»rt' than tho enemy. We wero ^hul of 
 the ehance of risking ojir lives in battle, but sieknesH 
 and death made our spirits droop to think of it; daily 
 starini^ at us, ^oin«^ unu after tliu other, not knowing 
 who may be the next. 
 
 The anchor was weighed ! the sick actually leavin«» 
 their haunnocks to assist at the capstan ; the tiddler 
 playing the a])[>ropriate (|uiek step — 
 
 " IT\S TIMK FOR US TO GO!" 
 
 •♦ Don't you lionr iho lu-lls ure ringiiif^ ? 
 U'h tiiiio i'or UH to p)! 
 Mon't you lirar tho girlH aro Hinging ? 
 It'rt time for us to go ! " 
 C'honis, Urn. 
 
 Old Sotif/, 
 
 Many a silent, fervent, and inward prayer was muttered 
 on that day ; with individual thaid(s to Ilim who liad 
 watched over those who had escaped I'roin the perils of 
 so much sickness, the dangers of the sea, and the 
 enemy. 
 
 I have now brought my patient followers out of tho 
 Yang-tze-Keang, again passing the picturesque Golden 
 and Silver Islands, and aniving safe at Chusan ; and I 
 liopc I have not incurred censure by detaining thorn too 
 long, where all things were so attractive, so new, and so 
 interesting to us all. 
 
 I I 
 
CIIAPTEU VII. 
 
 "HO MEW Aim noUND." 
 
 IIO.MK\VAUI> imrNn— IMIOHI'KCTS— IIONO KONO — OM) CIIAl' — flllNKSK 
 AUTIHTH — IMITIHTS — MACAO — WASH CLOTH KS — HIN(JAPUUK — 
 ■WARN I NO — ANCiKIl KOADS— nUftlUCANK — TAIII-K MOUNTAIN — 
 HT. IIKI.KNA — NAI'OLKON's TOMH — NAUKOW ESCAI'K — I'KO-TOl' 
 TUOWSKKS -IIUMP OK J)KMTia'CTIVKNKMrt—A«CKNHION — INVA- 
 LIDS— HAUD-IIKAKTKI) CIALK — 8IIOKT AI.LOWANCK — LAND 
 on! — all's WKLL! — POTATOKS AND MACKKItKL — I'LYMOlrTII — 
 IMI'UKSHIOXS — CUUISK IN A CAII — I'OUTSMOUTII — KKCKP- 
 TION — SVCKK KILVEU — MY FlUST IMl'UUHHtON — i'AV OfF. 
 
 " Ask of the Hailor youth, when far 
 
 Ilin light bark bounds o'er ocean's foam, 
 What ehurtns hira most, when evening's star 
 Smiles o'er the wuve Y To dream of home." 
 
 Aftku some refit, for we came into Chusan without an 
 aiiciior, and reccivint; on board many invalids, some of 
 whom wo were bu^t taking to sea for burial, we one mom- 
 ing actually found ourselves running, with a favoured gale, 
 " Homeward bound." It is iinpossible to convey the 
 feelings experienced at such a moment as this, to any but 
 those who have already felt them. Although our ship was 
 
 J' 
 
' -r'' 
 
 (^ 
 
 li r 
 
 06 
 
 IIONO-KONG. — OLD CHAP. 
 
 22,U0() miles from Englaiul, running with only a cl«isc 
 roofed main-topsail on tlu^ cap ; hatt'-nod down " i'oro 
 and aft;" every sea threatenin<^ instant destruction ; our 
 thon|j;lits were all towards "home." The happy, pleasin*^ 
 prosja'cts of home I Sometimes, while pacing he deck, we 
 Avould stand still for an instant and ask ourselves the ques- 
 tion — "Is it a reality? Can we really be gointr hume?" 
 There are thoujj;hts ajul pleasures about home, that rivet 
 us to it, that we can never for<;et ; and although wo :\vc 
 delighted to get to sea, yet aln)Ost the first wi:.h is to be 
 back again. I shall never li)rget my impressions at Hret 
 being homeward bound ; I presmne they are the same 
 with all ; tliey are most enviable. 
 
 We called at Hong-Kong * afler a quick passage. I 
 was sent away early in the morning w ith despatches to 
 the Post-OHice, and to V/est Point ; as our Naval Estab- 
 lishment had been erected there since my last visit. I di<l 
 not know exactly where it was ; but on reaching the 
 shore, a respectable-looking, elderly man, in a snug 
 lihooting-coat, and a stout walking stick in his hand, was 
 on the pier, leisurely, but attentively, looking at my 
 boat's crew, who were not very strictly attired. I jumped 
 on the ])ier, and said, " Old chap, will you tell me where 
 the Dockyard is, if you please ?" " Oh yes," says he, 
 " over there." " Thank you." A minute afterwards, I 
 met some person I knew, and asked him who that was 
 still standing on the pier. " That," he says, in a low 
 voice, for fear of attracting attention, " Tliat's the 
 
 • And hero wi' hud tho p;mtificiition to li'urn that the thanks of 
 b»)th Houses of I'lU'liiuncnt wore votrd us for iho Huccessfid tormi- 
 uatiou of the war, ami that we were to receive medals. 
 
 I I 
 
 f * 
 
CIIINESt IMITISTS. 
 
 67 
 
 Admiral !*' I said not another word. This "chap," 
 as I had fainiUaily termed liini, was the strictest Admiral 
 in Iler Majesty's service ; had hoen taking; his inornin<5 
 walk hetbro the can rose, and was then waiting for his 
 galley to take him on hoard the Flag-Ship. 
 
 ^Ve called, also, at the Portugnese settlement of 
 Macao, and I was very sorry that sickness still deprived 
 me of the oj)portunity of vL^iting it. 
 
 The Chinese are beautiful artists in either likenesses 
 or landscapes, hut in th ' '.".tterhave no idea of perspec- 
 tive ; they will copy a steel engraving perfectly. Many 
 liad their likenesses taken at Hong-Kong ; particularly 
 the Commanders-in-Chief, and other notable persons; 
 among whom was a dashing C.aptain, a tall, tine, good- 
 looking man, but deeply indented with the small-pox. 
 His picture was finished, an admirable likeness! and 
 having called at the painter's one evening, intending to 
 give final directions about it, ho found the artist, witli 
 a snuill brush in his hand, having or it a light brown 
 colour, sitting intently over the picture. " Hollo," says 
 the Captain (who thought it had been completed some 
 days), " what a*"' you about now?" "I go," says the 
 inimitable Chinaman, " I go nmkee dot ; " at the same 
 time placing the brush on the cheek to imitate the pits 
 of the small-pox ; of course the picture was at ouco 
 rescued. 
 
 These fellows imitate anything; the best and most 
 perfect imitists I suppose in the world ; sometimes they 
 are absurdly so ; and many of us lost considerably by their 
 imitating too nearly. Once my tailor came olf, and 
 measured me for a camlet jacket, and direction.-. 
 
tmmm 
 
 mmmm 
 
 ' t ! 
 
 fi I li 
 
 
 
 60 
 
 WASH CLOTHES. 
 
 given to make it exactly like an old uiiiibrm jacket 
 ^3,'hicli he took with liim for the purpose. In a week the 
 tailor returned the jacket very neatly and very nicely 
 finished ; but on looking over it, I found to my horror 
 that he had made it exactly like the pattern, and had 
 copied, to a stitch, an old patch that had been put on 
 the elboAVS some months previously. This, I thought, 
 wap carrying the joke {'urther tlian the picture. 
 
 " Wash clothes " is a great event on going into harbour 
 after a long cruise ; your kit is nearly exhausted, as may 
 be supposed (that is, a midshipman's kit), and his last 
 clean shirt is on him, which he has kept on [mrpose for 
 coming into harbour ; and is therefore anxious as to whom 
 he trusts nearly all his '•^ worldly goods," and when they 
 will be brought to him. No sooner is the anchor droj)pnd, 
 than on board rush men, women, boys, girls, holding out 
 handfuls of certificates lor you to read, from officers for 
 whom they have wasiiod ; iind taking care to have on 
 them linen done u]) to starch and ])crfection. Cries of 
 *' Wash clothes, sir ?" " Yes, sir, I wash your clothes ;" 
 "1 wash lor you l)eforo, sir;" '* I know your face, sir;" 
 " I no put chunam, sir ;" " Ah ! Sahib know mo ;" *' I 
 mend clothes, sir ;" " This your certificate, sir ;" '* I sew 
 on button, sir ; " until you are really compelled to let 
 them exliaust themselves, and then (juietly choose one. 
 You then provi' their honesty by their papers ; some 
 are had, some are good. Not knowing how to read, 
 thev treasure certificates that condemn them at once ; 
 some run thus : — 
 
 
 *' / /teref'y rcrftj}/ (hut Alib Arum Jeejrehoy is nut to 
 
WASH CLOTHES. 
 
 59 
 
 ." 
 
 road, 
 lonco; 
 
 \/iot to 
 
 ^* he I rusted; washes hadli/, and pounds your linen between 
 " two stones to shreds. 
 
 (Signed) "J. S., 
 
 "II. M. S. " 
 
 Another : — 
 
 " This is to certifif that liinitseljce Cowusjec is a 
 *' rascal. 
 
 (Signed) " W. S., 
 
 "H. M. S. " 
 
 Another : — 
 
 ** IVe can confidentlij recommend Mrs. Cnrsetjce as a 
 " f/ood, honest, and punctual washerwoman " 
 
 Signed by all the Officers, II. M. S. 
 
 When you are satisfie<l, then coincs a job to count 
 linen and make out lists. You would rather do anything 
 than that, but you are compelled. Going over all your 
 dirty clothes again, seven, eight, or nine dozen pieces ; 
 ot* a hot scorching day, on a lower dock, only a few 
 miles from the e(Huitor ; wotting through your only hope, 
 your last clean shirt on your back, with perspiration. You 
 know not what onk'al some of your chtthes have to go 
 through before you again see then); perhaps your hand- 
 some dress shirts will be worn over and over again by 
 some greasy nigger follows ; your under garments also 
 pay a heavy toll for landing. JJut a capital story is told 
 of a "dubash" who brought oHf the washing on one 
 occasion, and on counting them over, the owner, who wan 
 a young midshipman, remarked, that a pair of his 
 

 
 00 
 
 SINGAPORE. 
 
 II n 
 
 stockings, which were always white, were now a brown 
 colour. ** All, Sahib," saiil tlic washcr-nian, slapping his 
 forehead, *' please, Sahih, inassa strain hini colVee 
 through theni." "Confound it," said tho young fellow, 
 much annoyed ; but tho washer-man endeavoured to 
 compromise the matter by saying, *' Oh, don't be angiy. 
 Sahib, massa only strain him through dirty stocking." 
 
 N.B. — Always know where your washer-man lives, so 
 that you may take him by storm, if your ship is 
 ordiTod suddenly to sea. 
 
 We arrived safe at Singapore, and all this was gone 
 tlirough. Our stay wjis very short, no clothes ap[)eared, 
 and we were settin": studdinjj-sails. Fortunately the wind 
 was light, and wlien eight miles off the anchorage, on 
 board pulled a boat with our clothes, I mean our 
 rags! wet, muddy, and saturated with yellow-ochre. We 
 had .a four months' sea voyage before us, and this 
 our kit. " Patience is a virtue." 
 
 In most of the Indian pt)rts the washer-men and 
 women have brothers and cousins who are tailors ami 
 liiion -drapers. After one or two washing your clothes 
 are beaten to pieces between two largo stones ii> a 
 running stream ; when they can be no longer worn, 
 you arc strongly recommended to the brother or cousin 
 for new linen. 
 
 At Anger Point, Straits of Sunda, boats came off and 
 we got a sea stock of fruit anil turtle, and also had 
 tVe honour of a visit from the post-master in his full 
 ilress, "langooty and cocked hat." A light and airy dress, 
 well adapted for the climate, except that the paper cocked- 
 Iiat may collapse in a heavy sho\>er, but the same 
 
 I \] 
 
ST. nKI.MNA. 
 
 til 
 
 shower would be of benefit to tlio rag. I thougbt we 
 should sdl have split on his first coming on deck, it was 
 irresistibly ludicrous. On our pnssagc to the Cape of 
 (iood Hope, p.xssed within the influence of a hurricano 
 on the meridiuu of Mauritius. Tiio sky suddenly 
 bccaino cloudy, the clouds were rent by heavy peals of 
 thunder, accompanied by vivid lightning. The rain 
 iell in torrents ; the barometer also fell, and all sail was 
 shortened. It had passed near without our suffering 
 from its effects, beyond this, at night wo had a most 
 violent scpiall ; but by the warning were well prepared. 
 
 Christmas-day we passed Table Mountain, but 
 being all anxious for home did not delay by going in 
 there. I siiould, however, like to have gone once through 
 Wine-berg and Constantia for many reasons; but 
 " rolling down to St. Helena" was j)erhaps the better 
 of the two. 
 
 Anchored at St. Helena, on a small spot of gi'ound off 
 St. James's Valley; coming in under double reefs, as by 
 Port-orders vessels are not allowed, or are re([uested 
 not to caiTy much sail, on account of the sudden gusts 
 of wind which come down the valleys and ravines. 
 
 St Helena ofiered great attractions for us — Napoleon's 
 prison, his dwelling, his tomb. As our stay was very 
 short, a small party were oft' at once. The huiding here is 
 difficult, and indeed at times dangerous, from the rolling 
 swell which fetches round tin? points, brought up by a 
 constant S.E. trade wind. On the landing-place (the 
 only one on the island) a crane is fixed with a ro])e attach- 
 ed ; this is swung out to you, and when you lay hold of it, 
 you swing yourself in as the boat rises with the waves, 
 
i 
 
 
 Pi' 11 
 
 »i i 
 
 ■f 
 
 t t 
 
 1 1 
 
 02 
 
 napoleon's tomtj. 
 
 and must Ijc well attended Uy the crew, who keep her 
 from fretting under the overhanging rocks. 
 
 Wo were, however, unfortunate, or somehody in tlio 
 boat was stupid, for on our approacliing the rock tlio 
 wave raised the boat several ieet ; slie tlien full ; and on 
 rising again her stern got under the rock, her hows 
 rising with the swell, and of course leaving half of lier 
 whore it was. As a matter of course all were in the 
 water, hut those on shore rescued us one hv one. It was 
 a narrow escape. 
 
 We were not, however, to he foiled in our walk to the 
 tomb ; to have returned on board to put on dry clothes 
 would liavc cost too much time, as the ship was to sail 
 in the evening. A kind friend on shore (a verv fat one 
 too, fat people arc always kind I) lent me a pair of trousers, 
 immensely large, and tapering down to the ieet. I ant 
 sure I was mistaken for a Frenchman, and received much 
 attention ; they were preferable to wet ones, and 
 off we started all on horse-back. 
 
 We were politely shown over the residence of the lato 
 Napoleon (now a stable), and also the hollow and much 
 dilapidated sepidchre in which his remains laid. We 
 were presented with a small j)iece of the pall which 
 covered his cottin, as well as a sprig of the drooping- 
 willow ; and permitted as a great favour (for the pay- 
 ment of half a dollar), to drink from the same well 
 that Napoleon did, or perhaps never did. 
 
 This is another sad illustration of tho d«;structivG 
 curiosity of our countrymen ; here iron hars have been 
 removed, and many have their tops broken and carried 
 oiF as relics. 
 
 (I 
 
HARD HEARTED GALE 
 
 63 
 
 111 
 
 [n 
 
 a 
 
 Wo returned, and I must add, not much gratified. It is 
 difficult to find the tomb, I'roni woods and long grass ; 
 but there is no difficulty in finding' people ready to receive 
 gratuities for telling you most improbable stories. 
 
 We were hospitably regaled at the Consul's on our 
 return, and I had an o|)portunity of returning with 
 thanks niv borrowed habiliments. Called at the sun- 
 burnt Isle of Ascension ; taking on board some unfortu- 
 nate officers and men who had been invalided Irom the 
 coast of Africa. 
 
 We had hitherto made a good passage, but now were 
 met by a stubborn and hard-hearted N.E. gale, in which 
 we wore compelled to lie-to under storm sails, the sea 
 breaking completely over us. Our devoted ship gave 
 one or two heavy lurches, which carried everything 
 away between decks ; mess-tables, bags, including all 
 crockery and glass; these troubles were completed by 
 our being put on half allowance of water and provisions. 
 In this dilemma we exchanged numbers with the ship that 
 left Nankin fourteen days before us, having on board the 
 despatches announcing *' Peace with China." This gale 
 lasted for nineteen days ; to ns who had been anticipating 
 our arrival so soon, this was very provoking; and day after 
 day passed, and we at last thought it would never end. 
 However, like most things it had an ending, and on the 
 twentieth day, at eight in the mo»'ning, the long-looked-tbr 
 land appeared . A pilot boarded us ; it did one's heart good 
 to see a fresh and healthy face once more : we did not re- 
 quire his services, but I put in his hand half-a-crown, and a 
 letter containing the only word;?— "all's safe and well," to 
 drop in the first post-office ho met. The next boat which 
 
 i 
 
 
64 
 
 ARRIVE AT PLYMOUTH. 
 
 
 boarded us was full of " potatoes and mackerel." To us who 
 luid been nineteen days on half allowance of provisions, 
 and now Hharpcned up by a cold easterly wind, 1 nijod 
 not say what was done with this acceptable relief; frying, 
 boiling ; boiling, frying, the whole day ; the hissing of the 
 frying-pan never ceased. A heavy gale again coming on 
 from the eastward (■omi)ellud us to bear up for Plymouth, 
 where wo anchored in safety. Our feelings of joy 
 at this moment can neither be imagined, nor well 
 described. On looking round, and conviiu'ing ourselves 
 of the reality, all exclaimed — " Thank God, here we are 
 once more. " 
 
 AVe would indeed have been ungrat -ful, unthankfid 
 mortals, if we did not feel our real position, after being 
 carried upwards of forty-four tiiousund miles over the 
 sea ; through all climates, through sickness, and through 
 war; through stoini and tempest; and now brought back 
 to " the haven where we would bo" in safe* y, by an ever- 
 guiding and overruling Providence. Myself in particular, 
 who had had three relapses of fever, during the last of 
 which so far gone was I that my doctor asked me if " I 
 was prepared." Who had been rescued from drowning 
 on more than one occasion ; who had escaped the enemy 
 both by treachery and war ; now found myself safely 
 returned to my native land after an obsnnco of years, 
 to offer up heartfelt and fervent thanks ij Ilim who 
 alone could have brought me out of all these dangers. 
 
 On landing I gave a cabby (No 377) double lare to 
 drive doubly fast, and in less than an hour after the ship 
 was anchored, I was (piito unex[)ectud among all those 
 near and dear to me. 
 
POUTSMOUTII. 
 
 G5 
 
 the 
 
 Thii gale, which continued for two days, enabled mo to 
 make many flying visits; and so unexpected was my 
 arrival, that it was some time before I could mako myself 
 b(>Iieved. The first abatement of the storm wo were off 
 to Portsmouth ; and, having one instalment of the Sycco 
 silver, aniountingto one million of dollars, part indemnity 
 for the Chinoso war, wc had to go into the harbour to 
 discharge it. 
 
 I never can forget the lovely spring morning that 
 shone on us ns wo were towed quickly by the A'ictoria 
 pier at Portsmouth. Crowds had assembled to welcnmo 
 our arrival ; the bands played, " See the conquering hero 
 comes-," "Where have you been roaming?" and "AUer 
 very many roving years." This, together with the cambric 
 handkerchiefs waved by the ladies in acknowledgment 
 of their approval, made one not regret going so far and 
 through so much for even the momentary satisfaction 
 of being considered a ** hero." 
 
 Wo were lashed alongside the dock-yard, and com- 
 menced hoisting out the silver (one million dollars in 
 Sycee). Of course this attracted :iiany, who came to see it 
 as well as the shot-holes in the ship's side and rigging, 
 and the Chinese trophies collected on the field of 
 battle. 
 
 Now, I am not going to be romantic; nor am I 
 going to deviate from my first intention of writing 
 simply and plainly. I cannot omit remarking that, 
 during the busy occupation of getting out our treasure, 
 my eyes accidentally rested on a face, a form, a figure 
 that I cannot easily forget. I felt myself then and 
 there a prisoner! It was my first impression! But I 
 
 F 
 
06 
 
 FIRST IMrUESSlOX. 
 
 waa still a boy, and liad not oven monntcd the 
 « white patcli." 
 
 • « # • 
 
 That evening was the most a^^eeable I liad ever yet 
 spent. It passed provokingly fast ; the hour for our 
 parting arrived. I said adieu with a bursting heart, and 
 promised faithfully to retur i the instant duty would 
 release me. The ship was c /dered to the eastward to bo 
 paid off', and in the short space of three days and a half 
 the pendant was hauled down. 
 
 Next day I was appointed to another ship. 
 
 W ' 
 
'W 
 
 tho 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 ON SHORE. 
 
 THE LAST CIIAPTKR — A NKW SHIP — COMPASS IX KllROR — PLKASINO 
 ItKMINIHCENCKS — OUTSIDK COACH — EXETKU — AT IIOM K — 
 AOAIX AFLOAT — TlIK DOWNS — FITTINO OCT — SLIPPED 
 MY MOOKINas — SOUTD-SEA ROOMS — THE PAUTINO — MOSS 
 noSES — DECLINING HEALTH — HOSPITAL — DOINCJS THEREIN — 
 ADVICE — PRIMROSE HOOTS — READV FOR SERVICE — APl'LY FOR A 
 8HI1' — HRLNSWICK — AOAIN AT PORTSMOUTH — THE REMEDY. 
 
 The latter part of the past chapter cost me many an 
 
 liour's reflection. I could not, for the life of me, imagine 
 
 why so young and so fascinating a girl should have 
 
 ventured a smile on me. I am sure my outward 
 
 appearance was not the most attractive ; all our clothes 
 
 had been hove to the winds to make room in our chests 
 
 for Chinese dresses and curiosities. The remaining part of 
 
 our clothing has been accounted for at Singapore. We 
 
 frequently used to boast of our slack and disreputable 
 
 rig, and we used to glory in it, for we knew that we were 
 
 again near our tailors. We all looked withered, sickly, 
 
 and dispirited, after our trying cruise ; we had not yet our 
 
 medals on our breasts; and this circumstance was, 
 
 theref^ » C-, to me most unaccountable. And what was still 
 
 F 2 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
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 Mences 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WiST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 
 
 (716)872-4503 
 
<t. 
 
 PA 
 
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 9 
 
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 68 
 
 REMINISCENCES. 
 
 more marvellous, after all my p Ize-money had been 
 spent in another fit-out, of the most approved and stylish 
 fashion, and another ship obtained for me, I set out at 
 once, Yi^ith the intention of a dutiful and affectionate son, 
 to visit *' home." But, afler travelling many hours, I found 
 myself actually within a few yards of the self-same spot 
 where we had discharged our treasure a few days since, 
 and the poor young sailor was again more deeply and 
 irretrievably in love than ever ! 
 
 Two days was the utmost I allowed myself; but these 
 two, short as they were, have afforded me many of my 
 most pleasing reminiscences, and I often look back to them 
 with the pride and pleasure of a young sailor, and the 
 sincerest hopes that these recollections may soon again 
 be renewed. 
 
 I had to travel the remainder of my journey on the 
 outside of a " coach," in company with many other 
 sailors who had been paid off from their vessels, and 
 were about to squander their time, prize-money, and pay, 
 like myself. The jokes and fun we had on that coach 
 amused many land lubbers around us, who had not 
 been accustomed to the society of sailors. " How many 
 knots do you think she's going Bill?" " Seventeen ofiF the 
 reel." " Just hove the log." " Jack, give us a pull at your 
 pistol ; mine has got the watch below." " Jack, I looks 
 toward 3'ou." *' Bill " replies the other, "I has your eye." 
 " I expect we shall have to reef topsails and spread the 
 rain-awning before we sight this here land.'' On our 
 arrival at Exeter hot coffee was ordered for eight, but 
 the people took care not to bring it to us until we were 
 about to '* shove off," as Jack said ; however. Jack was 
 
■'ms 
 
 THE DOWNS. 
 
 69 
 
 ad been 
 d stylish 
 I out at 
 late SOD, 
 , I found 
 me spot 
 i^s since, 
 ;ply and 
 
 >ut these 
 y of my 
 I to them 
 and the 
 >n again 
 
 r on the 
 
 ly other 
 
 iehf and 
 
 and pay, 
 
 at coach 
 
 had not 
 
 w many 
 
 n off the 
 
 1 at your 
 
 I looks 
 
 )ur eye." 
 
 read the 
 
 On our 
 
 rht, but 
 
 we were 
 
 ack was 
 
 not to be done ; he unshipped the coach lanthom, 
 wiped it out, carefully poured the coffee, scorching hot, 
 into it ; the coach "shoved off," and the boiling coffee 
 was drunk leisurely as we went along the road. The 
 same evening myself and bag arrived safely at home in 
 the west of England ; and, before turning in, I hove the 
 window up, and looked around. Ah ! thought I, with 
 an inward satisfa(!tion to myself, no middle watch to keep 
 to-night — no topsails to reef! Pipe down ; the ship is 
 well moored, head and stern. 
 
 I must pass over a short interval at home — ^very short, 
 for I was no sooner on shore than I was anxious to be 
 afloat again ; and one fine morning found me a passenger 
 in an Irish steamer, with 350 pigs, countrymen of mine, 
 on my way to join my new ship to the eastward. 
 
 In the identical spot where we are informed by un- 
 doubted authority that Black-eyed Susan paid the fleet a 
 visit when in search of her *^ beloved William" — in the 
 Downs — ^we were compelled to anchor in a dense fog, 
 which lasted twenty seven hourg ; and I paced the deck 
 humming to myself these lines of that well known song : 
 
 *' Susan, Susan, lovely dear! 
 
 My vows shall ever true remain ; 
 
 Let me kiss off that falling tear — 
 
 We only part to meet again. 
 
 Change as ye list, ye winds, my heart shall be 
 
 The faithful compass that still points to thee !" 
 
 Next day I joined my ship. 
 
 All the troubles and inconveniences of " fitting out" 
 at an eastern port were over ; the ship inspected, highly 
 approved, and we again sailed, but were ignorant of our 
 final destination. It was not very difficult to get under 
 
70 
 
 SOlITIt-SKA ROOMS. 
 
 S I 
 
 * ■ 
 
 pi 
 
 i' 
 
 weigh {'rom tlio " last place created." I slipped my 
 mooringy oaaily ; altliougli I (bar, and at the same time 
 T must confess, that in a few more days I should havo 
 had a "foul anchor," and it wouhl perhaps have heen 
 difficult to " dear haws(\" Parting, however, was not 
 so heart-rending. On arrival at the first port, I was sent 
 to answer a signal from the guard-ship, and I found 
 myself again not one hundred miles from the very spot 
 where not only had the treasm'o been first landed, but 
 discovered. After "duty" of course thoughts of pleasiu'o 
 revived, and I was once more in the presence of the first 
 
 one who — 
 
 • • • # 
 
 "South-Sea" rooms and their attractions arc well known 
 to every midshipman as l)ciug the rendezvous, once a 
 week, of the most agreeable TertuHas. It was my good 
 luck to arrive hero on a Thursday, and I enjoyed the 
 most ]>leasant ooning imaginable. All the fUte and 
 fashionable of Portsmouth were present ; and with the 
 ha])py mixture of blue coats and red jackets to enliven 
 the scone, I do not know where can bo found more 
 select and attractable rooms. I was too much absorbed 
 to see anything that was going on around me, but I can 
 never forget — nothing can ever erase from my memory 
 — the evening of the 18tli of May. Fair ringlets (I always 
 had a weakness for ringlets), and a still foirer face, had 
 made sad havoc in my heart. She Avas the most evan- 
 escent of beings; her winning eyes, her flowing hair, the 
 beautiful transparency of her face ! she looked ** as if she 
 had been made out of a rainbow, all beauty and peace." 
 
 The struggle of parting was soon overj but not 
 forjiotten, ww^ in a few Iiours aftorw{ird,s wo were in the 
 
M0S8 UOSKS. 
 
 71 
 
 went of England. A signal having been made fur a 
 mid., I was sent ; and fur the first time I ienrnud 
 that wo wore destined for the coast of Africa or 
 West Indies. 
 
 While on board the guard-ship I heard a witty reply 
 given by a boat's crow alongside, tu the mid. or mate of 
 the watch. He hailed one of the many boats which had 
 arrived to copy orders, and said, "Are you the So-and- 
 so's boat ? " " No sir," says the bowman, " we're Roses 1 "" 
 " Aye sir," says the coxswain, lifting up a huge beard — 
 ** Aye sir, Moss-Roses." This was one of the gigs of the 
 "Rose" in which the crew cultivated profuse beards, and 
 christening themselves ** Moss-Roses." Of course we all 
 smiled. 
 
 My health was not yet re-established from the yevero 
 shock I had in China, and I otlen felt the effects of that 
 cmise; and, fearing the additional bad effects of an 
 African or West Indian clime, I am sent to the hospital ; 
 where, after six weeks, I was pronounced by a meulcal 
 board ready for " any service." 
 
 The sound of an ** hospital " is not very cheering, but 
 during these six weeks I found it, next to one's own home, 
 the most comfortable. You have almost every thing you 
 wish for, plenty of plain but nourishing diet, a comfortable 
 sleeping place in a large clean and airy ward, plenty of ex- 
 ercise, kind nurse attendants, luxuries if in need of them; 
 but the " small *" beer — wholesome, but " very small " — 
 you must shut your teeth and strain the beer, leaving the 
 hops outside ; a pleasant prospect around on every side, 
 if you are possessed of a good telescope, and frequently 
 inside also ; many coming in to walk during the day. 
 
72 
 
 iiusri'i'AL. 
 
 ^lii i! 
 
 :i 1 
 1 ! 
 
 i'f 
 
 ! 
 
 J ! 
 
 Lc.'ivo twice u week ; do not exceed it ; and do not j)icii: 
 the flowers. 
 
 1 must plead guilty to having twice (in a good cause, 
 however) robbed the gardens. The ** Riot Act" was read 
 in our ward, but I was never found out, fur I was wiso 
 enough to choose a time when all was stillness (10 P.M.) 
 to cull my bouquet — when no one would have fancied 
 invalid.s so mad as to be out iii the night air. It may of 
 course be readily concluded that these flowers wore not 
 for myself, or I would not perhaps have run such a risk ; 
 but we were surrounded by kind and attentive friends, 
 friends sympathising with von in your illness, and often 
 sending presents (which, I must add, are prohibited, 
 except they are "innocent and harmless"). We were 
 surrounded, I say, by kind and affectionate inquiries ( fho 
 west of England is proverbial for attention, hospitahi\^, 
 and kindness) ; and it will hardly be thought that these; 
 attentions made no impressions; hence robbing the flower- 
 gardens. 
 
 It is often remarked, that a sailor has in every port a 
 home, in every homo a wife. Sailors are undoubtedly a 
 most sufceptible race ; but the fact is this, they are 
 frequently at sea weeks, months, and sometimes years ; 
 the first port they enter, the first pretty face they see, they 
 are gone. Their hearts then are so susceptible from being 
 unattacked, and from long absence, that very little makes 
 an impression, and, as I have said before, the first smile 
 " they are gone." It is, however, going a little beyond 
 the real case to say " in every port a wife." This term has 
 no doubt been used to rhyme with the line before or 
 after ; ^'sweetheart " would perhaps be giving him credit 
 for all he deserves. 
 
 I 
 
rUIMROSl'; HOOTS. 
 
 ra 
 
 )t j)ick 
 
 causf, 
 js read 
 IS Aviso 
 P.M.) 
 fniicic'd 
 may of 
 ore not 
 a risk ; 
 friends, 
 d often 
 liibitcd, 
 e were 
 ies (tlio 
 pitali V, 
 xt these; 
 flower- 
 port a 
 tedly a 
 ley arc 
 years ; 
 ee, they 
 m being 
 e makes 
 st smile 
 beyond 
 erm has 
 efore or 
 n credit 
 
 Well, these attentions from without did, I must confess, 
 (for I uni Aery candid), produce impressions witln'n, 
 alt]iou<^h we had not been at sea many years ; codes of 
 signals were interchanged by very simple moans, and 
 very easily understood, and many a pleasant and agree- 
 able walk and talk around the grounds the signals 
 obtained for us. 
 
 • ««••• 
 
 I would strongly recommend, therefore, my young 
 friends, not to allow the term *' hos[)ital " to deter you 
 from going there if necessary. You will find all I have 
 said ; you will, next to your own home, find it the most 
 comfortable and consoling in sickness and in sorrow. 
 You will not, perhaps, be surrounded by those to whom I 
 am much indebted, and for whom I have great esteem ; 
 others may have taken their places. 
 
 Many of our wet day? were passed in playing the 
 most delectable and intellectual game, ** pitch and toss, " 
 for "rhubarb tarts" and cream — they were allowed, being 
 wholesome diet ; and I must not forget the few days wc 
 had " hay-making " within the walls. Of course only the 
 sick and those belonging to the hospital were permitted 
 to partake of this healthy and innocent enjoyment. 
 
 There was also a " little scene " with the " primrose 
 boots,^' which I dare not say anything of, beyond merely 
 showing that my memory is still fresh. A Dollond 
 detected for me that it required two servant girls to haul 
 these boots off after being wet through. What a tell-tale 
 a spy-glass is, to be sure ! how unconscious your victims 
 are that they are in the " field !" I would recommend all 
 young persons who inhabit front rooms to keep their 
 
I 
 
 74 
 
 THE BRUNSWICK. 
 
 curtains down. Curiosity is ever on the wing, and 
 idlencbs leads to it. 
 
 I have been long enough now at the hospital; I 
 begin to feel the good effects of my native climate, and 
 as I am pronounced by the faculty "ready for sea," 
 I must be afloat again, particularly as "loss of time" 
 is severely felt by a young officer. Every minute is of the 
 utmost importance and consequence, and not a day 
 should be lost. 
 
 I applied for a ship, and whilst waiting a reply I 
 
 felt that I must take a trip to where does my 
 
 reader suppose ? The spot where the treasure was landed, 
 he will immediately conclude. The old *' Brunswick " 
 steamer had the honour of conveying me. I can scarcely 
 believe that I am again en route for a place I had 
 only a few days since bade adieu to for ever I The bare 
 idea is delight itself At Torquay we picked up a very 
 interesting family — ''five girls out of six squinted," or 
 had a *'cast," as it is termed by some more charitably 
 disposed. You could not tell for the life of you whether 
 they Avere looking at you or not, or whether all were 
 looking, or whether none at all were looking. I am not 
 saying this from any unkind motive, or from one of 
 mimicry ; but really it attracted attention. A sailor who 
 had been twenty years at sea needs no apprehension 
 of an impression in this instance. Perfectly safe, I think ! 
 
 The time appeared without an end. However, it came 
 at last ; and 1 could scarcely believe that the very hand I 
 had pressed only a short time before, and said farewell 
 to for ever, was at this moment leaning on my arm. 
 
 My hoiU't was gradually, yet iniporcoptibly, lessening ; 
 
■i 
 
 THE REMEDY. 
 
 75 
 
 altogether going. I could not control it ; it was impos- 
 sible to help it ; no remedy that I could think of was an 
 antidote. However, next morning at hreakfast I received 
 a partial cure, and the following was the prescription, for 
 any who may be suffering in a like manner : 
 
 '^AdmimUi/, 20th Jiili/. 
 
 " Sir, 
 
 ** My Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty havinj* 
 appoiuted you to II.M.'s ship, the 'Blaze-away,' in China, it 
 is their Lordships' direction that you repair IMMEDIATELY 
 to join the * Fuzee ' for a passage. 
 
 "I am, Sir, 
 
 " Yoiu* humble Servant," &c. 
 
 I gazed on the word IMMEDIATELY, with three 
 rough and unmistakeable dashes made under it. A cold 
 chill came over me. "Go immediately to the 'Fuzee' to 
 join the *Blaze-away' in China, a place I had neaily died 
 in only a short time since," thought I. Can it be true ? 
 Oh, yes, too true. I asked for it the day before yester- 
 day, and it was now granted. My portmanteau was 
 packed, and I took an affectionate farewell ; and I could 
 only console myself by the idea, that "the pangs of 
 parting were soon to be healed by the prospect of 
 returning." 
 
I 
 
 1 
 
 
 f* i 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 OUTWARD BOUND. 
 
 OUTWAUD BOUKD — SLASHINO FUIGATE — PARTIXa — COVE — PIC-NIC 
 — NEARLr LEFT BKUIND — AGKEEABLE PASSENGEUS — A FAVO- 
 niTE — MADEIRA — MY HOKSE H0LT8 — PLACES VISITED — THE 
 CIRCUS — A TEA PARTY — CONCERT — THE PARTING VISIT — 
 THE JOLLY BOAT — THE LINE — WHO MANGLED THE MARINE — 
 midshipman's pleasure — RIO JANEIRO — BOMBARDMENT — 
 
 places of resort — the pious mid — your washerwo- 
 man's address — farewell rio — the wager — tristan 
 d'acunha. 
 
 ** She walked the waters like a thing of life, 
 Daring the elements as if to strife ! " 
 
 I WAS now on board a " slashing frigate," commanded 
 by a gallant and kind-hearted captain, good officers, 
 and a smart crew. I had now been about two years a 
 sailor, and I was proud of saying, "I belong to that 
 smart frigate in the Sound." I began to look ailoft with 
 the air and consequence of an experienced " salt,'' and 
 I really was proud of my profession. I would not have 
 changed it for any other — a sailor's life was the life 
 for me. Parting has always been to me very painful, and 
 I this time avoided it by endeavouring to attribute the 
 accident to the vessel being ordered to sea immediately. 
 
 I 
 
COVE OF CORK, 
 
 77 
 
 Cork— "Cove of Cork" — was our destination first. 
 " Cove " was my native place, the eye of Erin's green 
 isle, and I gazed on it with mixed feelings of joy and 
 sorrow. It gave me enough to do, in the short space of 
 time allotted, to see all my friends — at least, relations, 
 friends I had not many— and although but two days to 
 remain here, a pic-nic was immediately formed for the 
 second dciy. The Cove girls can get up a pic-nic as quick 
 and complete as any people I know ; and we were all on 
 the Carigoline river early next forenoon. I was quite 
 at home ; the cloth was spread, the substantials laid out, 
 and a pigeon-pie placed before me. 1 put my knife into 
 it, cut out a V, and looking up to ask who would 
 partake of any, to my horror I saw my " crack frigate '* 
 with the blue-peter flying and sails already loosed, 
 accompanied by a gun, which thundered its echoes 
 around us. Did I say good-bye? I forget. I rushed 
 down to a boat, made them pull their strongest, and 
 while the ship was in ''stays," making the very last 
 tack, I jumped on board. *' Adieu, old Ireland !'* said I, 
 " you nearly had me for a short time." 
 
 ♦' Adieu ! adieu ! my native shore 
 
 Fades o'er the waters blue ; 
 The night winds sigh, the breakers roar, 
 
 And shrieks the wild sea-mew. 
 Yon sun that set upon the sea 
 
 Wo follow in his flight ; 
 Farewell awhile to him and thee, 
 
 My native land — good night ! " 
 
 We were again fairly at sea, with the pleasure of 
 having the Governor of Hong-kong and his family 
 
rr 
 
 :i 
 
 I .. 
 
 'I i 
 
 111 
 
 I I 
 
 i| 
 
 78 
 
 MADKIUA. 
 
 passengers to that place. It is always agreeable to liavo 
 persons of note on board, for it not only gives an 
 opportunity of talking to them, but talking of them ; 
 and it is particularly pleasant for the midishipmcn, 
 for they get a good breakfast every morning-watch 
 they keep, and a champagne diimer once or twice 
 a- week. 
 
 I was fortunate in being a special favourite, not 
 from any merit of my own, but from the simple 
 reason that I was last from Hong-kong, and knew 
 all about it ; and the all I did know was the position 
 of the few fishing huts, the post oHice, and the 
 place the Admiral, or "old chap," was kind enough 
 to show me, " West Point, " when I met him on the 
 pier of a cold morning.* 
 
 This was somewhat later in the season than we 
 made our passage two years since, but equally fine; 
 and a short and pleasant run brought us to that 
 lovely isle, Madeira. 
 
 I began now to know Madeira a little better, and 
 since my last visit, my pay had increased from £16 
 a-year to £31 — a considerable addition. I was, therefore, 
 able to ride instead of walk ; and all the mids. on 
 this occasion, were mounted. Mine was a large cream- 
 coloured, powerful American circus-horse, that had 
 finished his work in that amusing line, and was now 
 earning a dollar a-day by carrying about midshipmen. 
 I was no sooner on his back than he bolted, fortunately 
 up a hill ; a poor old woman was kicked over (I never 
 
 * This admiral was afterwards ray final passing officer at 
 Portsmouth. 
 
THE ClIK'UH. 
 
 not 
 
 licard at'torwartls if she was killed). Tlie liorso was 
 unmana^eablo ; I was unprepared for sucVi an event, 
 but held on, and he soon became exhausted. These liorses 
 are very often taught these tricks. They throw their 
 riders, return to their stubles, and are then re-let, at the 
 I anie price, by their owners. The chaps who are hired to 
 attend these horses arc ^reat rascals, and impose on 
 a stranf!;cr in every possible manner. With the smaller 
 island horses they hold on to the tails all day, and 
 never leave you, and are helped up and down the 
 hills in this manner, and arc constantly imploring 
 and annoyinj* yr^M for a small piece of money to 
 buy wine. 
 
 Nos Seuora di Montd and the Pasenora Gardens 
 were visited by iis all. The former, like all Spanish and 
 Portuguese chapels, full of mimicry, mummery, and 
 hypocrisy. The latter gardens are very tastefully 
 and prettily laid out, having a largo circular fish- 
 pond in its centre. As I v.as on a circus-horse it 
 occurred to me that he might do a little "circus," 
 and round this pond I started. When about half way 
 a forked branch of a tree took me by the neck off 
 my long-legged animal. He passed on, and down I 
 came, flat, every part of me striking at the same 
 time, from my heels to the back of my head. I was 
 a little stunned, my clothes (a mid. always goes ashore 
 at Madeira in his best clothes), particularly about the 
 elbows, were rather abused, and altogether smeared 
 with a red mud of which the banks are composed. 
 I rose, andc ongratulating myself 'twas nothing worse, 
 shook myself, and mounted my faithful charger, now 
 
 
\} 
 
 80 
 
 A TEA PARTY. 
 
 by my side. The evening was finished at our former 
 hospitable acquaintances. 
 
 Next evening, after visiting some of the best vine- 
 yards, I was invited to a ladies' tea-party, and, by 
 some unaccountable means, I found myself the only 
 male, in the presence of nine ladies. I was asked 
 to be kind enough to "cut bread and butter." I 
 could not refuse. I had never committed myself so far 
 before, except in a mid.'s berth cutting off the best 
 crust, or "coasting," as we knowingly term it. The 
 evening was very warm, the loaf quite new, the 
 butter in ice, myself in a fever ; and I commenced, and 
 a pretty delicate cut I made of it. I thought I 
 should have melted ; all eyes were on me, and they 
 were all strangers except one. This one had no doubt 
 taken me for her protector on her return home. The 
 bread and butter was finished (that is the cutting 
 of it), and by attempting to apologize I of course made 
 it ten times worse. But they all unanimously and kindly 
 assured me that it was *'just the thing," as "they 
 had all rome from the country and were rather hungry." 
 
 We all went to the concert in the evening and 
 Rubeno highly delighted and astonished us by his 
 wonderful performance on the violin. His imitations 
 of a canary, a cat, and a donkey — three animals 
 veiy unlike each other — were inimitable I 
 
 We again leave Madeira — not without some regret ! 
 but before starting we were favoured by a visit from 
 several ladies. The midshipmen's berth, which is always 
 very small in a frigate, was of course peeped into. 
 The sun, fortunately for us, was at that moment shiniivg 
 
 ! 
 
 ;■ i 
 
THE JOLLY DO AT. 
 
 81 
 
 ormcr 
 
 vinc- 
 id, by 
 e only 
 asked 
 or." I 
 [ so far 
 ,he best 
 t. Tho 
 iw, the 
 ;c(l, and 
 >ught I 
 nd tbcy 
 doubt 
 le. The 
 cutting 
 so made 
 kindly 
 " they 
 lungry." 
 ng and 
 by his 
 itations 
 animals 
 
 regret 1 
 
 it from 
 
 always 
 
 id into. 
 
 shining 
 
 through the scuttles, oh I said they, " what a nice snug 
 place you have got, when the sun shines on you." 
 This last was happily added, for I do not recollect 
 the whole time I was in the ship a similar occurrence 
 taking place, therefore their impressions of our " com- 
 fort" was unfortunate for us; we got no sympathy. 
 The ladies departed, and so did we; and had soon 
 again notliing but sky and water to gaze upon. 
 
 The jolly-boat, %Nhich was hoisted up astern, was 
 covered over, having a small scuttle with a padlock 
 on it to protect vegetables, fruit, &c., from longing eyes. 
 This was the *^ fruit garden," and a good sea-stock 
 was laid in there, but it always disappeared quicker 
 than could be accounted for; it was impossible to 
 keep the longing eyes of a hungry middle-watch 
 midshipman from them, and he found an ingenious 
 contrivance for extracting the ripest bananas, the 
 choicest orange, and the best grapes, without opening 
 the lock or destroying the cover ! We were all guilty ; 
 it was too tempting, we could not resist ; a midshipman 
 is an animal that requires feeding with something 
 hourly ; the fresh air he inhales incites the digestive 
 powers, and they must be satisfied. We were nearly 
 found out many times, but always escaped by some 
 good management. One night in particular a number 
 of fine Spanish onions were gone, and the peculiar 
 odour they left after thorn nearly condemned us. 
 
 We crossed the line again, but on this occasion 
 having important passengers on board the arrangements 
 were, that the men may shave among themselves, 
 but the officers and passengers must not be interfered 
 
 G 
 
K I:' 
 
 l! 
 
 
 I, .!■: 
 
 82 
 
 THE MANGLED MARINE. 
 
 with. At this the men got the sulks, and would not 
 shave at all ; Neptune neither visited nor acknowledged 
 us on arriving in his dominion. Instead of shaving, 
 however, directly after breakfast the boatswain piped 
 "hands shift sails." The day was spent in shifting 
 sails, up and down top-gallant yards &c., and a 
 hot day's work it was; instead of the water running 
 into them, it was running freely off them ; this cured 
 the sulks 1 
 
 I had a very large sea chest, far beyond tht* 
 regulation size (every mid. must have a chest according 
 to size and pattern for uniformity and convenience 
 in stowage), and many a time mine was threatened 
 to be " docked/* but always fortunately escaped. Mid- 
 shipmen are generally allowed a marine on board a 
 ship to attend on them as a domestic to polish boots, 
 brush clothes, fetch water, &c Hammocks are scrubbed 
 once a week or fortnight, according to circumstances, 
 and when dried, are, previous to being inspected, folded 
 up and pressed. Those servants who boast of masters 
 generally place their hammocks under the chests for 
 pressure. My marine was always envied at having 
 a huge chest, but one evening after the hammocks 
 had been "piped" down, and we were all sitting at 
 supper ("quietly of course), we heard a smothered groan 
 in the steerage. All rushed to the rescue, and beheld 
 my immense chest turned over, and leaving nothing 
 to be seen under it but the fingers of two hands 
 and some human hair. We rescued my marine I He 
 had lifted up my " waggon " to put his hammock under, 
 the ship gave a roll, and mangled him and his hammock 
 
 ,^, 
 
midshipman's fleasube. 
 
 8d 
 
 would not 
 mowledged 
 of shaving, 
 wain piped 
 in shifting 
 fcc, and a 
 ter running 
 ; this cured 
 
 beyond th<3 
 st according 
 convenience 
 1 threatened 
 aped. Mid- 
 on board a 
 polish boots, 
 [are scrubbed 
 rcumstances, 
 scted, folded 
 jt of masters 
 le chests for 
 at having 
 hammocks 
 In sitting at 
 Ihered groan 
 and beheld 
 ing nothing 
 two hands 
 larinel He 
 [mock under, 
 lis hammock 
 
 > •* • 
 
 at the same time. From that moment my chest was 
 christened the " mangle," and it was a standing joke 
 against me, " Who mangled the marine f " All inside 
 was of course broken, bason, tumbler, scent-bottles, &c., 
 and it made me unamiable for some time afterwards. 
 
 ** Midshipman's pleasure'* consists in putting his chest 
 to rights, or more correctly speaking, ** putting it all 
 wrong ;" if he has an hour to spare, and is fortunate 
 enough to get a small bit of candle to stick in the 
 comer of the lid, to enable him to reach and to 
 see the bottom, then he makes up his mind for a 
 little "mid-'s pleasure." The tills are taken out and 
 the chest emptied piece by piece. The great object 
 is to ascertain correctly how many clean shirts, trowsers, 
 stockings, &c., remain for the rest of the voyage, and 
 this becomes a source of anxiety when the voyage is 
 prolonged by unavoidable causes. The chest is emptied 
 and dusted out, the things returned in order, the 
 shirts by themselves, the handkerchiefs here, the 
 waistcoats there, the cloth clothes in that comer, the 
 boots and blacking in this, the bason and soap 
 and night watch-coats on top of all. By this time the 
 domestic marine arrives : " HoUo, sir, what's up now ?** 
 " You might have sent for me, sir, before you capsized 
 your chest." Servants do not like to see the chest 
 overhauled without their knowledge ; the next time 
 he comes to the chest he knows not where a single 
 thing is. Perhaps his master will five minutes before 
 send for him, "hurrah, Cheeks, I'm going to dine with 
 the Captain, get me out a clean shirt, clean hand- 
 kerchief, waistcoat, stockings, trowsers, and I'll put 
 
 o 2 
 
84 
 
 RIO. 
 
 1 
 
 on a clean flannel to-day as to-morrow will be Saturday, 
 and get me some water to wash, and my boots clean, 
 they're a little wet, but never mind." All this in 
 five minutes ; the chest has to be completely routed 
 out to find these things. It is truly said of a mid- 
 shipman's chest, that '^all is on top and nothing 
 at hand." After this hour or two hours' " pleasure " 
 he rushes into the berth and announces his good fortune. 
 ** Hurrah my boys, seven clean shirts, besides this one 
 on, and five pair of trowsers." " Ohl lend us onr old 
 fellow, as I have but two, and you shall have one 
 of my best ones when we get into port." *' Don't you 
 wish you may get it, old fellow 1 " " Lend," as the 
 black fellow says, " bery much like gib." 
 
 Arrived at the spacious harbour of Rio Janeiro, 
 which we find crowded with vessels of war, of all 
 nations, consequent on the eventful circumstance of 
 the arrival and marriage of a Neapolitan princess with 
 the Emperor; a large Neapolitan squadron being 
 present. Scarcely a day passed without a salute of 
 some sort First we had to salute the Brazilian flag ; 
 then the American Commodore ; and at noon fired 
 a royal salute to commemorate the birth-day of the 
 King of Denmark. At eight next morning, being the 
 birth-day of the Princess Januarias, fired a royal 
 salute, and at noon another royal salute to celebrate 
 the Emperor's accession to the throne. The next day 
 the British Minister was saluted; "*■ noon a royal 
 salute to commemorate the coronation day of the 
 Princess Januarias; next the Emperor afloat, and a 
 royal salute was fired, and this bombardment finished 
 
PLACES OF RESOllT. 
 
 85 
 
 e Saturday, 
 boots clean, 
 All this in 
 itely routed 
 
 I of a mid- 
 nd nothing 
 
 " pleasure " 
 rood fortune, 
 des this one 
 
 us onr old 
 
 II have one 
 "Don't you 
 md," as the 
 
 Xio Janeiro, 
 war, of all 
 umstance of 
 princess with 
 adron being 
 ; a salute of 
 •azilian flag; 
 t noon fired 
 1-day of the 
 ng, being the 
 [red a royal 
 to celebrate 
 'he next day 
 lOon a royal 
 day of the 
 ifloat, and a 
 uent finished 
 
 witli all vessels topping their yards, hoisting colours 
 half-mast, and firing minute guns the whole day, for 
 Don Pedro, who died nineteen years since. This firing 
 daily from twenty-four vessels of war will give some 
 idea of the noise and uproar caused in the calm and 
 tranquil harbour of Rio de Janeiro I 
 
 The Spanish Opera and the French Theatre were 
 open ; the streets were illuminated and decorated with 
 fireworks and triumphal arches. Each of these were 
 visited by us, but were very tame indeed. We 
 had stalls, and the most agreeable part was standing 
 up between the acts and gazing around the dress 
 circles, where many pretty, yet delicate looking faces 
 appeared. " Soap Street," the Regent Street of Rio, has 
 the most attractions. This is the evening promenade ; 
 and it is most enlivening to pass up and down, and 
 admire the many excellent shops, with their numerous 
 fair occupants, making the most exquisite feather flowers. 
 It is in one of these a purse will soon get light, but 
 the artificial flowers ar'* the most beautiful in the 
 world. 
 
 One of our pious midshipmen, not gifted with the 
 most steady or thoughtful disposition, having had 
 to spend an evening on board another vessel, from 
 which he could not obtain a boat to return, rashly 
 swam from the vessel, came up the chain cable dressed 
 in boy's clothes, and astonished us all in the berth 
 by narrating his mad exploit (Rio harbour swarms 
 with sharks.) This is the same quiet midshipman who 
 was one day dared by a soldier to jump off the poop 
 of a line of battle ship, the ship going eight knots at 
 

 86 
 
 YOUR WASHERWOMAN. 
 
 the time. He took a chair in his hand, on which the 
 soldier had been sitting, and over he went. The ship 
 had to be hove to, and a boat lowered for him. Having 
 left the service, or the service left him, I forget which, 
 he is now a Reverend Divine of the Church of England. 
 
 I think I have before said, "get the address and 
 whereabouts of your washerwoman." It was ten at night, 
 and we were to sail at daylight next morning, and no 
 clothes appeared. Three or four of us obtained leave and 
 went, determined to redeem our valuable kits. Unfor- 
 tunately this time Mrs. Baker lived in a barracks, and we 
 had to storm the sentries ; with our horses and guides we 
 dashed past every body, sentries, mu?kets, and bayonets, 
 not heeding the challenge. Brazilian sentries are not 
 prepared for immediate or unexpected action ; they have 
 to think a good deal ! But now all the barracks were 
 disturbed, not before we had rescued our clothes and 
 escaped ; after they had rubbed their eyes, and lit their 
 cigarettes, we were gone. But I am sure if they had 
 caught us, we should have had no mercy shown for our 
 rashness ! 
 
 We passed out of Rio Harbour, all the vessels 
 dipping their ensigns to say "good bye." At that 
 hour the Corco-vado, several thousand feet high, 
 and the Sugar-loaf, utood out in purple tints and 
 imposing grandeur. The forts hailed us; not that 
 they expect, or ever get an answer, for they mutter 
 something most unintelligible. The land breeze took 
 us out early in the morning, and between ten and 
 eleven the sea breeze met us. 
 
 Mids., when they have nothing to do (which for- 
 
n which the 
 . The ship 
 im. Having 
 brget which, 
 
 of England, 
 address and 
 ten at night, 
 ning, and no 
 led leave and 
 kits. Unfor- 
 :acks, and we 
 id guides we 
 nd bayonets, 
 tries are not 
 I ; they have 
 arracks were 
 
 clothes and 
 and lit their 
 
 if they had 
 aown for our 
 
 the vessels 
 B." At that 
 I feet high, 
 le tints and 
 is; not that 
 they mutter 
 
 breeze took 
 een ten and 
 
 (which for- 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 THE WAGER. 87 
 
 tunately for them is not often), are always meditating 
 some tricks or som« mischief. The quieter a mid. appears, 
 the more deep is to be the design ; and when he is 
 apparently thinking quietly to himself — then look out I 
 We had on this occasion nothing to do ; we had a 
 spare half hour, and we bet one of our messmates 
 that he would not drink a tumbler of beer with a 
 tea-spoon. He accepted and commenced, and won after 
 a severe struggle. He assured us he would not do 
 the same again for any consideration ; it was the most 
 nauseous dose that can be imagined ; it, however, amused 
 us for an hour, and we were satisfied. 
 
 The solitary, but interesting island of Tristan 
 D^Acunha was passed about twenty miles distant, its 
 summit, which is 800 feet high, covered in clouds. 
 Here we caught a cape pigeon, having a piece of 
 canvas romid his neck, but the inscription had washed 
 off; he had no doubt been taken by some other vessel, 
 and was so well treated that he came again to ua 
 Many of these pretty birds were caught, as well as 
 an albatross, but set at liberty again when they had 
 received Her Majesty's mark. 
 
 Tristan D'Acunha is a vast barren rock in the 
 South Atlantic, of which very little appears tc be 
 known. After it had been determined by the British 
 Government that St. Helena should be the future 
 abode of Napoleon, it was deemed advisable to 
 occupy it, where, in case of any attempt to rescue 
 the imperial prisoner, he might be placed in still 
 greater security. A company of artillerymen was sent 
 out to this desolate isle, distant at least 1,500 miles 
 
88 
 
 TRISTAN D'ACUNHA. 
 
 I) il 
 
 ! ,<li: 
 
 from the nearest continental shore. It was a place 
 hitherto visited only by ships which had been driven out 
 of their course, for the purpose of obtaining a fresh 
 supply of water, or to repair any damage produced 
 by stress of weather. When Buonaparte died, Tristan 
 D'Acunha was evacuated by the company, who were 
 glad enough to return to their native country, after 
 a sojourn of some years upon this inhospitable shore. 
 They were recalled by order of the British Government, 
 who had no longer any motive for continuing the 
 expense of a garrison in a remote region, where the 
 active services of troops would, in all probability, never 
 be required. Having demolished the garrison, they 
 took their departure, after a day of general festivity. 
 There was, however, one among them named "Glass," 
 who requested that he might be permitted to remain 
 with his wife, to take their chance on this solitary 
 spot It was looked upon as a mad freak, but no 
 objection being made, his comrades left him in charge 
 of an uninhabited island, with only his vsdfe to relieve 
 his solitude, and enliven the dull monotony of a life 
 that promised no future enjoyment. Nevertheless, he 
 was content to brave all chances that might befal him, 
 and when he showed that his request was sincere, it 
 was at once acceded to, amid the banters of his comrades, 
 who called him the ** ragged king," but heartily bade 
 him God speed. Glass was consequently left with 
 a stock of provisions, a small crop of wheat, biscuits, 
 fishing-tackle, &c. ; he had a number of goats, sheep, 
 and other necessaries. It fortunately happened, that 
 he and his wife had always lived contentedly together. 
 
THE WIDOW. 
 
 89 
 
 a place 
 Iriven out 
 y a fresh 
 produced 
 i, Tristan 
 who "were 
 itry, after 
 ble shore, 
 vemment, 
 Quing the 
 where the 
 lity, never 
 ison, they 
 ,1 festivity, 
 i "Glass," 
 to remain 
 is solitary 
 k, but no 
 
 in charge 
 
 to relieve 
 
 of a life 
 
 iiheless, he 
 
 befal him, 
 
 sincere, it 
 s comrades, 
 ariily bade 
 
 left with 
 it, biscuits, 
 )ats, sheep, 
 )ened, that 
 
 together. 
 
 ■:f 
 
 It was toward the domain of *' Governor Glass" 
 that a boat lately and so unhappily swamped 
 had been steering ; which threw a gloom over the little 
 community. A vessel was wrecked near this spot; 
 a few had been saved; among them, one who would 
 not be comforted, he had lost his dearest friend — his 
 brother. For hours he did not utter a word ; he clung 
 to the body of his deceased relative; the bodies of 
 the drowned were cast into one grave ; the bereaved 
 brother was not to be consoled. At night he stealthily 
 quitted his couch and pursued his way to the sad 
 spot where the remains of his brother lay. A dis- 
 covery was now made; this person turned out to be 
 a woman ; she unconsciously betrayed her sex during 
 hor paroxysms of fever; underneath her jacket she 
 wore a loose pair of stays, and within these carefully 
 sewn was a marriage certificate, by which it was 
 seen the supposed brothers were man and wife. The 
 youth met his beloved on a Sunday eve (near London), 
 bore her to the house of a female friend ; next morning, 
 by pawning his watch, a license was obtained, they 
 were married, the young couple were deserted by their 
 friends, they engaged in the vessel that had been 
 wrecked, and the late happy wife had already become 
 a bereaved widow. 
 
 On a future occasion I shall have much to say 
 and many novel events to narrate concerning this very 
 interesting spot, if, as I have before said, my leaves 
 do not get too bulky during my midshipman's carter- 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 i ;i 
 
 
 SIMON'S HAY — TIIK BAIJ. — THE PEA-ORERy CAIIT — WET TTIKOUOH 
 
 — CAPE TOWN — AFFECTIONATE EMBKACE — WINEUERQ — SAIL 
 
 — PROVIDENTIAL ESCAPE — SUN DA — ALCES. •: ttOCK — A DOAT 
 ON THE OCEAN — THE DREAM — THE GALLOWS — N.E. MONSOON 
 
 — NARROW ESCAPE — MAN OVERBOARD — HONQ-KONQ — THE 
 BOAT OX THE OCEAN IS SAVED. 
 
 At the Cape of Good Hope there is a peculiar flat-topped 
 mount, called " Tahle Mountain." When this is capped 
 with mist the cloth is said " to be spread," and this is a 
 sure indication of a coming gale. 
 
 Again we found ourselves at anchor in Simon's Bay, 
 the marks being '* Noah's Ark and Cape Hanglip in 
 one." The anchor was scarcely seated in the mud, when 
 the following invitation was received to a farewell ball 
 given by the Governor, before his departure from the 
 Cape. 
 
 " Government House, Cape Town. 
 
 ** His Excellency the Governor and Lady , request the 
 
 pleasure of the company of the young gentlemen of the Mid.'s 
 berth of H.M.S. to a ball at 9.30 p.m. 
 
 " The aide-de-camp awaits an answer." 
 
 Invitations had been issued a fortnight previous, and 
 
TIIE CAPE. 
 
 91 
 
 the ball was to take place this evening. We had twenty- 
 five miles to go ; it was already six p.m., and no time was 
 to he lost. 
 
 This is why a sailor enjoys the sea so much, the con- 
 trast is so great ; four or five weeks baffling and buffeting 
 the storms, tossed here, tossed there, nowhere at case, 
 then, the moment he arrives in port made everything 
 of, a,sked here, invited thero, and sometimes literally 
 spoiled. Last night we could scarcely stand on the deck, 
 the winds blew and the waves were mountains high (all 
 sailors know the awful sea off Cape L'Agulhas) ; so 
 strong was the former that the fore-topsail was blown to 
 atoms, the sea so high that the ship nearly rolled her 
 masts over the side, and we were in momentary fear of 
 the guns breaking loose. To-night we were to be in a 
 ball-room, surrounded by welcomes and happy smiles I 
 
 I have said before, " no time was to be lost." On our 
 arrival on shore, to our mortification, found all convey- 
 ances already gone. Nothing in the shape of a horse, 
 donkey, or vehicle could be had for love or money ; there 
 were none, and it was impossible to walk twenty-five 
 miles over quicksands and through rivers. 
 
 We were not to be done. At half past six an idea 
 occurred, ideas are ever ready with a mid. when in 
 distress. — 
 
 In the small, neat, but scattered town of Simon's Bay, 
 there lived a " baker," who had of course a baker's cart, 
 this was then the idea, and to the baker's shop we went, 
 with our carpet bags on our shoulders, containing our 
 pumps and kid gloves. Afler a great deal of persuasion, 
 a great loss of time, and a handsome reward, we were 
 
I .•, 
 
 
 
 93 
 
 THE PEA-OREEN CART. 
 
 promised the pony and "pea-green cart" which must 
 be back again by daylight (fifty miles) to carry round 
 the daily bread. We did not care much what it had to 
 do next day, but as quick as possible we got into it, 
 placed the backVjoard across for a seat, and the pro- 
 prietor of the vehicle took the reins, over a rough, sandy 
 beach, every now and then rolling over a boulder, and 
 of a dark night it may be concluded the ride was not a 
 steady or comfortable one, and we prayed for the finish. 
 It did finish, and without an accident ; and the unhappy 
 owner returned to take out his morning's bread, after 
 leaving us at the hotel. 
 
 " None but the bravo deserve the fair," — 
 
 and thus concluded that we had but to '*spin this yarn" 
 of our perseverance, and we should not want a partner 
 that evening. 
 
 After rigging ourselves in our new uniforms, we set 
 out for Government House (it was then eleven at night), 
 but had not gone ten minutes before wo were washed 
 down by rain. There was no retreat, all houses shut, and 
 we had to wade through it. On arriving at our destina- 
 tion, before being presented, we dried ourselves before a 
 large fire in the waiting-room. 
 
 " Misfortunes they never come single 'tis true." 
 
 We could hardly have supposed it possible, on enter- 
 ing the ball-room, that Cape Town contained so many 
 so pretty and so fascinating a number as were here 
 
THE BALL. 
 
 93 
 
 collected to say adieu to one of the most popular, 
 beloved, and esteemed of governors. 
 
 Although midnight, we were not a bit late, and were 
 soon sweeping round the room with the rest It was 
 the first time we had met any Dutch people, and the 
 ladies were the most animated " lumps of life," plump 
 little creatures, we had ever seen ; all smiles and habit- 
 shirts. There was much spirit among the dancers, and 
 all was life itself. The supper was splendid, and the 
 champagne went flying about in all directions, a minia- 
 ture cannonade. All attempt at conversation was use- 
 less from the cries of ** John, more champagne," and the 
 popping of corks. 
 
 The belle of the room was a lovely girl, daughter of a 
 colonel, whose name I forget ; she was dressed in lace 
 over white satin ; her hair was black, with black piercing 
 eyes, a face of perfect form and whiteness, and a most 
 symmetrical figure. Many an eye was fixed on her 
 that evening. In one of the quadrilles I was vis-a-vis 
 to a very young and pretty Dutch girl, and asked my 
 
 partner who that was ; she replied, " Mrs. , she 
 
 has been a bride some months.'' At twelve and thirteen 
 they sometimes marry here ! It is considered a pas- 
 sable age. She appeared to me to be almost too young 
 for a ball-room. 
 
 It is unnecessary to say we enjoyed ourselves, when I 
 state that it was not until five o'clock, until the daylight 
 had fairly driven us out of the ball-room, that we made 
 our salaam. 
 
 We saw all that was to be seen of Cape Town, 
 namely, the library, the promenade, and the clouds of 
 
U ! 
 
 I E « 
 
 
 94) 
 
 THE EMIUUCK. 
 
 red dust, and it was then found almost as difficult to 
 return as to get up here, all traps havin<» been hired ; 
 at an exorbitant faro, however, we got a horse and gig. 
 
 Tfie trip down was going on very quietly, for we were 
 both very sleepy and tired, indeed, the horse had it much 
 his own way, when suddenly I found myself with my 
 arms round the horse's neck, in the most aftcctionato 
 manner, and the horse on his knees, having brought up 
 against a boulder in the sand, and nearly smashed the 
 gig. A severe cut on my right leg, a tolerable good 
 shake, and no further injury — we were off again. 
 
 Again passed through Uiat lovely spot, Wineberg ; it 
 brings to your recollection at once scenes of home, of 
 byegoue days. In the approach to it the trees meet 
 overhead, and form an avenue often to be seen in 
 England. You cannot help fancying that you have 
 been suddenly brought back to your native home onco 
 more, until the white sands, and the arid, barren, sea- 
 worn coast, again undeceive you. Were I at all in- 
 clined to be romantic, I might fill a " leaf or two" with 
 the attractions that this place affords a visitor ; but as 
 my young readers know that it is far from my original 
 intention to be so, I must leave to them the privilege of 
 imagination and fiotion, for they may know that even in 
 the events of our " last ball " there wa*- ample material 
 for a novel, if I was so inclined, and many a novel has 
 been filled having a loss foundation. 
 
 The Cape was sailed from, and fresh westerly gales, 
 after we cleared the L'Agulhas bank, wafted us along at 
 a merry rate, studding-sail, — booms, small sails, and 
 sometimes large sails, carrying awuy and splitting, until 
 
THE ESCAPE. 
 
 95 
 
 one evening late, when rolling along before a brisk gale, 
 the ship and all on board were nearly lost. 
 
 About nine o'clock, the ni^ht dark, dreary and stormy, 
 and a heavy sea rolling after us, the hands were sud- 
 denly turned up, land was close under the bows, it was 
 St. Paul's Island, all sail was at once shortened and the 
 helm put down, and the swell off the land was riich, 
 when our broadside got into it, that I thought the noble 
 f. ^ate, with all }\or valuable freight, would have rolled 
 over on her beam ends. We had not time to trim the 
 yards and sails, every one expecting the ship to strike ; 
 fortunately she drew off it, an(i sail was again made ! 
 
 We supposed ourselves to be about twenty -five miles 
 off, but the current and set of the westerly gales had 
 sent us ahead of our reckoning. If we had struck not 
 one could have hoped to bo saved, as the sea was lash- 
 ing furiously against a steep and craggy coast, and tho 
 ship must have gone to pieces in an instant. Here then 
 let us pause for a moment This is, I think, the first 
 instance of an escape from shipwreck ; a storm, sickness, 
 the enemy, and from drowning, have I been rescued by 
 a merciful and ever-guiding Providence. Now I cannot 
 help seeing tho same finger of mercy guiding us from 
 shi))wreck, pointing out to us our danger, dragging us 
 from a yawning and watery grave, and placing us in 
 safety. Surely the Lord is with us, the God of Jacob is 
 our refuge. Ought not this example to induce us to fly to 
 Him for refuge, for He says unto us, " If ye come unto 
 me I will in no wise cast you out." 
 
 We entered the straits of Sunda, after making the 
 fastest passage from the Cape to Java Ht id on record. 
 
96 
 
 
 THE ALCE8TE. 
 
 •|. ! 
 
 On passing Anger, where we obtainod a supply of turtle, 
 toggery, and fruit, vivid recollections of the Postmaster- 
 General's visit came before me; we did not see him 
 again, fortunately for the feelings of our aristocratic 
 passengers. 
 
 Going through Macclesfield Straits, passed the ** Al- 
 ceste Rock," where the frigate of that name became a 
 wreck. On her return from the embassy to China with 
 Lord Amherst she struck and was soon in pieces ; part 
 of the crew went to Batavia in the boats, and the Dutch 
 Government sent and released the remainder. 
 
 Heavy squalls of wind and rain, with vivid thunder 
 and lightning, will always be found in these straits. 
 
 When passing the " Rob Roy" shoal, off Borneo, I 
 was one fine evening leaning on the hammock-netting 
 contemplating, " building castles in the air," when I saw 
 what appeared to me a boat, with four hands, and a fifth 
 standing up waving his hat. I was so sure of it that I at 
 once reported the circumstance to the officer of the 
 watch, and he to the Captain. The helm was put up 
 and a course steered for it, but at the same time all 
 argued against me, and thought it could be nothing else 
 than one of the many logs of wood we had been passing 
 all day, with birds on it ; however, to clear consciences, it 
 was run for, but the night closing in fast, all still fancy- 
 ing it a log of timbeTy again hauled to the wind ; I was 
 positive my eyes did not deceive me. 
 
 That night I dreamt of the selfsame raft ; I fancied 
 we bore up for it, and came alongside a long, low, 
 Spanish galliot. The first object that attracted my 
 attention wad a lovely Spani ' female sitting on the 
 
THE DREAM— THE GALLOWS. 
 
 97 
 
 'taffraH, stowing away some things in the lockers near 
 which she sat, as if to conceal them. We came along- 
 side, chains to chains, and went on board, but as I was 
 stepping from onr ship to the other, a small poodle dog 
 snapped at me, missed, and fell into the sea ; we in- 
 spected the ship throughout and then returned, hoisted 
 the jib, and bore away. I could describe every particle 
 of dress this Spanish girl had on, and every minute par- 
 ticular of the vessel, it made such an impression on me ; 
 but it would occupy space unnecessarily. I think there 
 was also a female companion with the Spanish girl. 
 
 On our passage across from Luzon to Hong-Kong 
 in the monsoon, I was nearly getting into trouble for 
 doing really what I did not do, and thus it may be seen 
 that poor, harmless, innocent midshipmen, may some- 
 times get credit and get punished for an act which, if 
 the truth were known, never occurred to them. The 
 first lieutenant, or commander of a large ship, goes the 
 rounds every night at nine o'clock, to see that everything 
 is secure, and particularly " all lights out ;" follow- 
 ing him are generally a lai'ge train of attendants ; the 
 mate of the deck, the petty officer of the deck, the 
 marine officer, master at arms, corporal, Serjeants, and 
 many others, which there is no occasion to mention, and 
 every deck and store-room, magazine, and tiers, all in- 
 spected minutely. When all over, it is reported to the 
 Captain, ♦* Fire and lights out, Sir, and all's correct." 
 
 Well now, it is not pleasant when an officer is zea- 
 lously performing an onerous, auu indeed laborious, 
 duty of this sort, and accompanied by so many beholders, 
 to be suddenly and unexpectedly " hung " in the steer- 
 
 H 
 
I'i i 
 
 98 
 
 MONSOON. 
 
 age on his passage along the decks ; the moment he 
 brought up, of course all bis retinue brought up against 
 him, and pushed him further into this very awkward 
 position. 
 
 On this unlucky night I had turned in, I think, for 
 the purpose of seeing Hong-Kong early in the morning, 
 and many others had also turned in preparatory for 
 their night watches, but not at this moment asleep. I 
 had left the noose of my hammock-lashing hanging 
 down (the running noose which goes over the end) ; into 
 this the first luff, had placed his head accidentally, and 
 the motion of the ship rolling, combined with the motion 
 of the body in progression, tightened the noose, and left 
 the officer hanging. It caused an immense sensation, 
 and we in our hammocks endeavoured to suppress a 
 burst of laughter, but it was no use, we relieved our- 
 selves. Now it was difficult, under these circumstances, 
 to persuade my chief officer that this was unintentional, 
 and that I knew nothing whatever of it, and for the 
 whole of the next day I was in bodily fear of being 
 reported to the Captain; but no doubt he concluded 
 what really was the case. 
 
 The N.E. monsoon came on with all its fury off Cape 
 Bolina of Luzon ; we were rather unprepared, and many 
 ropes parted before it. I was on the poop at the time 
 of its freshening, having an hour's chat with our lady 
 passenger about the pleasures of Hong-Kong, its pic- 
 turesque but unhealthy valleys, our unfortunate selec- 
 tion of it for a depot, and the mild and unassuming 
 appearance of it to me in 1841 ; for, as I have before 
 said, I often was asked to " come and talk about Hong 
 
NARROW ESCAPE. 
 
 99 
 
 Kong." This evening we were sitting on the sanie cot 
 on the poop, looking at the crested waves as they came 
 towards us, and inhaling the first of the monsoon, which 
 was refreshing after the calm and toilsome hours, which 
 were slowly passed while coming up the coast near 
 Manilla. The moment the breeze swelled our sails and 
 tautened the ropes, I heard a crash overhead ; on get- 
 ting up suddenly the cot topped over with the opposite 
 weight, and threw the lady over on the lee side of the 
 skylight ; the peak hauliards had carried away, and the 
 peak fell between us ; the cot overturning saved the 
 lady's life ! She did not, perhaps, feel her real danger, 
 but if we had both sat still, nothing could have saved 
 either of us. Soon after a man fell overboard, but 
 swimming well, and the life-buoy and boats down in an 
 instant, he was rescued from a watery grave. 
 
 We anchored at Hong-Kong, and had not been long 
 here when the " Cornwall" transport arrived, having on 
 board the boat and unfortunate crew that we saw near 
 the Pallawan Passage, at least that I saw, but no one 
 else would see. The unfortunate men said they be- 
 longed to a New Zealand ship (for they were all New 
 Zealanders), and were wrecked on some unknown shoals. 
 They acknowledged " having seen a vessel which ran 
 towards them, but coming on dark ran away again." 
 What must have been their feelings ? It will be seen, 
 that at the time T observed this boat, it made such an 
 impression on me, that the same night I had it before 
 me in my dreams. 
 
 h2 
 
CHAPTER XL 
 
 ( 
 
 CHINA DURING PEACE. 
 
 THE FLAG-SHIP — AN OLD FEIEXD — FLOGGING ROITND THE FLEET — 
 HONG-KONG IMPROVED — A MIDSHIPMAN'S PIC-NIC — FEARFUL 
 ACCIDENTS — THE ROGUE FORTS — PILOT SQUEEZED — CANTON — 
 CHIN CHIN JOSS — FLOWER BOATS — MAGNIFICENT SCENERY — 
 THE JUNKS — A CUMSHAW — WHAMPOA — LONG JIMMT — BROKE 
 MY LEAVE — ORDERED TO INDIA — MACAO — A SALUTE IN THE 
 SMOKE— OLD SHIP. 
 
 Again we were at Hong-KoDg, close off the pier, where 
 I had seen my kind old guide in a shooting jacket and 
 big stick ; I never landed there without thinking of it, 
 and him. 
 
 I was immediately sent to the flag-ship, to wait a 
 passage to my old vessel the " Blazeaway." Here I had 
 again the happiness to meet an old and much-esteemed 
 messmate ; time, however, had parted us, he was in the 
 ward-room, and I in the gun-room, but this did not part 
 friendship on his side ; he is now at the top of the tree, 
 one of the most distinguished and gallant off 3ers in the 
 British navy, and the brightest ornament to his pro- 
 fession. 
 
A SCENE. 
 
 101 
 
 ''FLOGGING ROUND THE FLEET." 
 
 This was the first time I had witnessed this mode of 
 punishment — I hope it may be the last. 
 
 Two men had been tried by a court martial for deser- 
 tion, found guilty, and sentenced to be flogged round 
 the fleet, receiving 100 lashes each. One was the son 
 of a rich merchant of Liverpool, a youth seventeen years 
 of age ; the other also a young, good-looking fellow. In 
 the launch of the vessel to which the men belonged a 
 triangle was rigged of three capstan bars, to which was 
 seized a grating, and to which was seized the suflerer. 
 The boats of the squadron attended, all officers and crews 
 in proper dress, alongside of their own (the prisoners') 
 ship ; after the hands being turned up to punishment, 
 the warrant read,' and the article of war repeated, " Any 
 one in or belonging to the fleet, who shall desert, or 
 entice others to do so, shall suffer death, or such other 
 punishment as a court martial shall impose." 
 
 Each offender received twenty lashes by the boat- 
 swain's mates of his own ship ; the launch was next 
 towed to the Flag-ship, followed by all the boats, 
 having a guard of marines in each, the hands turned up, 
 the warrant and articles of war again read, and twenty 
 lashes administered to each culprit ; then towed to the 
 next senior officer's ship, the same ceremony gone 
 through, and so on to the other" ships, until 100 lashes 
 each had been inflicted. The launch, with the unfor- 
 tunate fellows, towed to their own ship, and all boats 
 returned to their respective vessels, ended a scene to me 
 very revolting. Fortunately, it is not of frequent occur- 
 
 I 
 
 .li. \J tJ xJ X3 i 
 
102 
 
 THE PIC-NIC!. 
 
 rence; our service is so improving, that there will be 
 no necessity for this. Again, this was a mitigation cf 
 the punishment, which was, by the articles of war, 
 " death" 
 
 Hong-Kong had most astonishingly improved in 
 appearance since my last visit, with many substantial 
 additions. We had now a theatre, hotels, a site for a 
 church, a governor, and one or two streets forming — 
 Queen Street, Cat Street, &c. Still there was " Happy 
 Valley," the untimely grave of many an unfortunate. 
 The place was still sickly, and many deaths, notwith- 
 standing every precaution ; the town, during the S.E. 
 monsoon of six months, was in a perpetual calm, the 
 miasma and malaria arising and taken up by the in- 
 tolerable heat of the sun during the day, fell again as 
 dew during the night; every one was spiritless and 
 desponding. 
 
 A grand pic-nic was given to-day, to which I, as a 
 stranger, was invited. It was an ebullition of good 
 feeling from the mids. to the Admiral, Captain, and 
 ward-room officers, of the ship I now belonged to. 
 
 All went in Chinese boats, but on shoving off from 
 the ship, a wild and careless midshipman fired a pistol 
 by accident, and blew away all the lower jaw and collar 
 bone of an intelligent little Chinese boy who was attend- 
 ing on us (as he spoke English). He was hoisted in and 
 his wounds dressed ; he was terribly disfigured. Away 
 we went to Cowloon, the mainland of China, over rocks 
 and hills, firing our guns at stray pigs, cocks, dog.s, and 
 poultry. A pig was shot by one of our young fellows, 
 for which he had to pay five dollars. Arrived at a clean 
 
 111, 
 
FEARFUL ACCIDENTS. 
 
 103 
 
 joss-house, where our dinner was spread, and while 
 drinking our after-dinner wine, off went my gun, which 
 somebody was looking at, and two more Chinese 
 suffered. The shot being small, and some distance off, 
 and their skulls rather thick, they were not killed, and 
 they were led howling to their homes ; how they got on 
 we never afterwards learned. We did not return till 
 nine p.m. ; some more wild and wicked than the rest, did 
 not then consider the day finished, went on shore, 
 and concocted a bowl of punch, which made us ready 
 for anything. Every Chinaman carries a neat and 
 light paper lanthorn ; we thought we could carry them 
 instead, and therefore relieved every one met with, until 
 we could not carry any more, when we went down to 
 our boat, decorated her with all the fanciful and gaudy 
 lanthorns imaginable, and returned then to our ship, 
 quite satisfied with our day's adventures, as well as mis- 
 adventures. 
 
 While waiting here to rejoin my ship, I thought it a 
 good opportunity for seeing Canton and the river, and 
 for which I obtained leave of absence. 
 
 The vessel that I was to proceed in (having very 
 kindly had a passage granted me), unfortunately not 
 only got on shore, but carried away one of her spars, 
 which detained us some time, firing minute guns of 
 distress, and preparing a new spar. 
 
 The celebrated Bogue Forts and " Bocca Tigris" were 
 passed. If these forts were armed and manned by the 
 English, no vessels could possibly pass them. They are 
 built on huge masses of rock, of three tiers, and each tier 
 pierced for seventy-nine guns. 
 
ii 
 
 104 
 
 CANTON. 
 
 I I 
 
 1 f 
 
 r 
 
 
 A pilot was obtained hero, a well-known one, who is 
 bribed for a few dollars ; but these are closely watched 
 by the " fast boats," who, when the pilot is discharged 
 with his dollars, is at once " squeezed." We had to dis- 
 guise our chap with an old ChesterRcld hat and Taglioni 
 coat, and he was not known ; we also kept the fast boats 
 at a respectful distance with blank cartridge, 'llio pilot 
 conducted us safely to Whampoa, where we anchored, 
 and got him clear during the dusk of evening, his 
 fifty dollars safe in his pocket. 
 
 We were off at once for Canton in a hired junk, 
 making some short cuts, which obliged us to warp the 
 boat occasionally over the falls; at each of these "Falls" 
 there is a small joss-house, in which sits a joss with a 
 small oil-lamp burning, and on passing he is ** chin- 
 chiu'd," and given a pice.* The difficulty of getting 
 over the fall is overcome by frequently dropping pice 
 before joss, when "joss" deigns to behold you, and you 
 pass on safely. Most absurd superstition ! We had now 
 arrived at such scenery as I have described at Chin- 
 keang-foo ; golden and silver islands. The forts appeared 
 well finished, no doubt the work of foreign engineers, 
 complete, and well situated. The ** flower-boats" ex- 
 ceeded in gaudiness and size the Lord Mayor's barge, 
 and were superbly fitted up ; inside was a grand saloon, 
 hung all over with lamps, and flowers, and looking- 
 glasses ; filled with elegant sofas and curtains ; outside, a 
 balcony framed in with rails as if of gold. 
 
 Next in beauty are the Mandarin boats, fleet in the 
 
 * Pice, value about onc-cighth of a penny. 
 
LONG JIMMY. 
 
 105 
 
 extreme. Then the ships, or junks in ordinary, of an 
 immense size, 800 or 900 tons, some more ; huge and 
 ill-shaped, with the eye in the bows, antl manned by 
 Cochin Chinese. 
 
 I cannot, however, continue a description of the river, 
 which no doubt has been done before, and by abler pens ; 
 the magnificence of the scenery can only be judged from 
 the rice-paper paintings, which can bo purchased in a 
 folio at one and a half dollars each ; these give an idea 
 of the country, the city, the river, and the millions 
 living on it. 
 
 A few purchases made in Hog Lane, Old and New 
 China Streets, and an attempt to see the inside of the 
 »nty, which was prevented by closing the gates, finished 
 : lat day. The next was Sunday, of which there is none 
 in China ; prayers arc read once a year, after which they 
 all get very drunk ! 
 
 After you purchase an article of curiosity in a China 
 shop, you always ask for a " cumshaw" (present), and 
 you often get one of more value really than the actual 
 article piu-chased. 
 
 The remainder of my stay off Whampoa was agree- 
 ably spent in visiting the town and pagoda of Wham- 
 poa, the forts in Blenheim Eeach, Dane's Island (our 
 burial-ground), and other objects of interest ; not forget- 
 ting, however, " Long Jimmy" and his brother, two of 
 the best, most hospitable, and good-hearted Chinese on 
 the banks of the river. Their beefsteaks and onions, 
 potatoes and champagne, after a long walk or a day's 
 snipe-shooting, are well known to all who have anchored 
 off Whampoa. 
 
106 
 
 nnoKE MV LEAVK. 
 
 ' i I 
 
 »- 11 'lin 
 
 Wo were but fourtocn hours from Wlmmpoa to Honj:j- 
 Kong, when on going on bourd my ship to report myself, 
 it occurred to mo that I had asked for three days' leave 
 and took twenty-one. However, my good-natured com- 
 mander said, ** He was glad to see me back, and hoped 
 I enjoyed myself;" to which, of course, I replied in the 
 affirmative, and walked off. The delay was an accident. 
 
 One of tho squadron was now orden^d to India, and 
 on board her I had to proceed to join my ship, which I 
 had been so many months in chase of ; and as the log- 
 book says, we ** weighed and made sail," anchoring at 
 Macao next day. I had been here before, but had not 
 an opportunity of seeing it, and now found it a miser- 
 able, dirty hole, half Portuguese half Chinese : not a 
 building worthy of a name, a few small shops, the land- 
 ing-place crowded with Tanka-boats, and the streets aad 
 houses a scene of immorality, mud, and filth. Sailed, 
 and in passing the outer roads saluted a French com- 
 modore, setting all studding-sails in the smoke which 
 followed after us, in a light and favourable breeze. 
 After an eight days' passage, under sky-sails, and royal 
 studding-sails, anchored only for a few moments at 
 Singapore for the mails, &c., when wo again started. 
 
 Penang, the garden of India, the most lovely island 
 imaginable, in the straits of Malacca, was reached, and 
 here I found my old ship to which I had been appointed 
 immediatelj/j and now joined her after a seven montlis' 
 chase ! 
 
CMArTEll XII. 
 
 PENAXO. 
 
 PKNANO — WELCOME — A snip's HATX — BATH IN A KAIT, — yiilOllT- 
 FUL ACCIDENT — AWKWAUU MISTAKK — THE DANCK — SVM- 
 METUICAL riOIJUES — CONSTANT lEEDlNCJ — TnE UA(i(IA()E — 
 DIFFICULT ACT1N« — IlESlDENTs' HALL — AFFECTINO I'OSITKtN — 
 IJEI'AIITUKE — A DEAD CALM — FAUEWELL — LEAl' YEAU — VKRV 
 FAU GONE — AMIIEUST — KEDOEItEE — THE CITY OF TALACES — 
 EVENING AND MOliNlNO — THE DLACK UOLE — GOOD i'EEHNG. 
 
 I TRUST that a leaf or two devoted to a mere passing 
 remark, and acknowledgment of the hospitality and 
 attentions of the residents of this little-known island, of 
 the many happy and pleasant days spent here, of 
 the most agreeable fortnight ever passed, by naval 
 officers, will not be considered either tedious or un- 
 interesting to the patient reader. I fear I have long 
 before this, and on many occasions tested his patience, 
 but I consider it would be both ungrateful and un- 
 friendly to pass unnoticed an island whose happy 
 residents had afforded us so generous a welcome, and 
 so delightful a sojourn. 
 
 During the few «..a.ys we were here, it was a constant 
 source of daily pic-nics and evening parties, each 
 
 li 
 
 i 
 
 I ; 
 
108 
 
 WELCOME. 
 
 Bi ff '.^i 
 
 I 
 
 11 
 
 person endeavouring to out-do the other in giving us the 
 most hearty welcome, and on anne occasions our days had 
 to be divided, in order that our pic-nic or dinner-party 
 should be with one, on the express condition that our 
 evening was to be with another; and, indeed, our 
 most diflBcult task was to accept all without offending 
 any ; we must go to all, or we must not go to any. 
 
 The very evening I joined the old -'Blnxe-away," 
 every one on board was preparing the ship for a return 
 ball. Few on shore know how a vessel, with only her 
 own means, can be transformed into a " ball, supper, 
 and ante-rooms," with a little ingenuity, manoeuvring 
 and patience. On this occasion, the m.ds. gave the 
 ball ; the gun-room was the supper-rov^m. and the 
 quarter-deck the ball-room, the officers'* cabins fitted 
 up for the ladies' bonnets and shawls. The ball-room 
 was closed in with curtains, and flags of all nations 
 inside them, the rain-awning sloped overhead, and a 
 chandelier, hunc; from the centre with one hundred 
 bayonets, each having a candle in it, ropes coiled 
 up, guns cleared away, ottomans and sofas sprinkled 
 around. Qur band was always a good one, although 
 we had some losses from sickness in China ; the master of 
 the band had also been lost from a most melancholy 
 accident, and excuse my digressing by an allusion to it 
 here, in the midst of a ball. 
 
 In a tropical climate, all hands after supper are 
 permitted to bathe overboard ; for thi^ purpose the 
 lower studding-sail is spread in the sea from booms. 
 
 yards, 
 this, : 
 
 &c, and makes a sort of basin or bath; in 
 those who cannot swim plunge and splash 
 
 vll 
 
 I 
 
FRIGHTFUL ACCIDENT. 
 
 109 
 
 »» 
 
 about, and where sharks (a sailor's only enemy), arc 
 suspected to be, the word is passed previous to 
 going overboard, *' no person outside the sail." This 
 is strictly attended to, and as the boatswain pipes 
 ** hands to bathe " you see chaps going overboard from 
 all paits of the ship; jib-boom, yard-arms, hammock- 
 nettings, out of ports, and where there are 600 or 700 
 to bathe, this is an amusing sight. The mids. and 
 other officers are allowed the sail a quarter of an hour 
 before the men. On this unfortunate occasion, however, 
 the master of the band went outside the sail, although 
 ordered not to do so. He paid the penalty for his 
 rashness, a scream was heard — a violent struggle secn^ 
 he disappeared ! and nothing but a small curl of blood 
 came to the surface ; he had been seized by a shark, — 
 gone for ever 1 His body was never recovered — de- 
 molished at once, no doubt, by voracious sharks, which 
 swarm the bay of Maiiilla. 
 
 Our friends arrived an hour before wo ex- 
 pected them ; they could not resist the temptation 
 of coming early, and this was attended by a little 
 mishap that it would be impossible to forget. The 
 mid. of the watch, a young gallant ladies'-man, and 
 ever ready to be attentive, fancied this hour could 
 be wiled away by showing them round the ship 
 while it was yet daylight He collected a party and 
 took them round, forgetting that we were all at that 
 moment dressing in the cock-pit for the evening. Ho 
 was polite enough to allow them to go down the 
 ladder first, and their astonishment and our surprise 
 at this moment cannot be described I We rushed as 
 

 
 
 
 
 , i 
 
 '! i 
 
 ) 
 
 no 
 
 AWKWAllI) MISTAKI.. 
 
 WO wore into win<^s, into cabins, and bohincl posts ; 
 our visitors of course saw the mistake, and turned 
 tlieir lieads. Many know what a <ineor seono a cock-pit 
 presents, when brilliantly illuminated, and about twenty 
 or thirty mids. are scrubbinjj; and dressing themsolves ; 
 it' a picture of it could but bo drawn, 1 think it would 
 cause many a hearty smilo. ""Twaa soon over, and wo 
 hoped wo should not bo rcco«rnisetl during the evening, 
 for midshlpmeu do boast of a little bashfulness some- 
 times I 
 
 A (luadrillo cotnmenced tho evening as an intro- 
 duction, and it was not until three in tho morning 
 that a Spanish country dai-.^e concluded. I think 
 tho manner in which an evening has beea passed 
 may generally bo coiu'luded by tho hov,'. v. ^ hich 
 it breaks up; I'rom six until three, nine mnu's, was 
 not a short evening. I ebseived the ladies did not 
 waltz ! Now at tho san.c time that I am about to 
 pay a eoUiplinient, I sincerely hope I shall not offend ; 
 1 would not do so for tho world. Tho ladies of Princo 
 of Wales island (as it is sometimes called) that is, 
 those who are not altogether English, half Indian, 
 h.'ilf other countries, have figures perfect. Even in 
 cho lower orders among tho Indians, with oidy a 
 long calico wrapper wound round them, their figures 
 may be seen without an irregularity, all symmcti;; 
 ami proportion ; from the perfectness therefore of ti 'i 
 figure, it is unnecessary to <listort tho bodies by arti- 
 ficial means, as, I am sorry to add, many of my 
 country-women do. As midshipmen are sometimes 
 apt accidentally, in their eagerness to save from a 
 
 II f: 
 
CONSTANT FKKDINO. 
 
 Ill 
 
 " U or concussion, to pincli or squeeze their partners, 
 1 presume tliis to be the reason of their not waltzing. 
 Tliis IS an assumption of my own, and if wron^, 
 1 shall be f^Iatl to find it out; some waltzed, and very 
 gracefidly too. 1 trust I shall be excused this little 
 bit of criticism on ladies' dress (which I should know 
 nothing about), but I do so fearing a more illiberal 
 remark n>ay bo n.ado on this subject 
 
 I sat next to an old and respected nutmeg-merchant 
 at supper. He noticed my demolishing (after the ladies 
 retired) a leg and wing of a goose, and many slices 
 of ham. *' My gracious," says he, " how you boys 
 do live."" " Yes," I assured him, " wo rc'iuired feeding 
 very often, hourly on occasions." 
 
 Wo had a belle, as iu most cases of a largo [tarty, 
 but sho was entirely monopolized by one of our mids. 
 We really thought it was a case ! she was an exceedingly 
 pretty, yet delicate girl, dressed all in pink, fair, 
 graceful, a little pensive, and sho well deserved the 
 laurel she had won. 
 
 Tho next evening we found our " pumps ** again 
 doing their duty to the enlivening music of a piano 
 and fiddle — a ** regular turn-out, " to which ten of 
 tho favourites had been invited. Some person fortunately 
 found out at one o'clock that it was Sunday morning. 
 
 I must hero remark that tho rosidents iire in threo 
 societies, upper, lower, and middle circles ; first, second, 
 and third class; tho ones, are soldiers and tip-top 
 people, and sailors, if we were ambitious ; second circle, 
 merchants, medical men, farmers, &c. Wo had there- 
 fore occasionally a difhcult part to act ; if wo went 
 
112 
 
 residents' ball. 
 
 w 
 
 
 \ i 
 
 i 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 to No. 1 party, we offended No. 2 ; if we went to No. 2 
 house, dignity was offended; and we therefore did 
 our very best to please all, and offend none. But I 
 have seen the feeling carried so far, that at a public 
 ball, my amiable partner No. 1, would not dance 
 vis-a-vis to No. 2. 
 
 "THE RESIDENTS' BALL TO THE NAVY." 
 
 This was an elegant turn-out,'given in the banquetting- 
 
 room, to the Admiral, and Lord S on their return 
 
 from the war in China, the bands playing, " See the 
 conquering heroes come," as they entered the ball-room. 
 T''is compliment I had before paid to me it will be 
 jllected from the Portsmouth jetty, near the sacred 
 spot where the ''treasure" was first landed. I was 
 going to say, in the midst of all our enjoyment, I 
 had nearly forgotten this occasion, but the old tune 
 brought it vividly to my recollection. I am not going to 
 occupy space and time, or weary patience, in endea- 
 vouring to describe the most agreeable of evenings, 
 but one little event which occurred to me (as usual), 
 cannot be passed over, as it is a midshipman's adventure. 
 
 We were dancing a spirited finale, a Spanish country- 
 dance. My partner was an exceedingly agreeable, chatty, 
 animated, good-humoured Dutch girl, consequently 
 rather stout (most good-tempered people are stout) ; 
 it was a ** tearing" dance, and as it was the last, 
 we were all endeavouring to out-do the musicians. 
 We had just completed "hands across," and I had 
 placed my arm round my partner''s waist to commence 
 " down the middle," when lo ! and behold to my horror, 
 
 i 
 
AFFECTING POSITION. 
 
 113 
 
 and to the delight, I believe, and amusement of every 
 one else, my partner fainted in my arms ! I never 
 was in such a state of perplexity in mj life; I had 
 been under the fire of cannon, in storm and tempest, 
 near to shipwreck, near to drowning : I would have 
 preferred either, or all to this. My presence of mind 
 however did not forsake mo now; I had already one 
 arm supporting her waist, the other I passed carefully 
 around her, and carried her (no small weight) to 
 the ladies' room, where one glass and a half of cham- 
 pagne-punch quite revived her. "We were " down the 
 middle " and " up again" before many minutes, and this 
 ended one of the pleasantest evenings (and indeed morn- 
 ings, for it was now daylight), that we had ever passed. 
 We "turned in" that morning at "six, and we were 
 " turned out" at half-past six — a healthy night's rest I 
 
 On the very evening destined for our departure 
 from this delightful place (of course all leave was 
 stopped, as we were to be off at daylight), we re- 
 ceived a pressing message to say that Mrs. H — &c. 
 were waiting for us on the pier in their palanquins; 
 for *'all to come and have a farewell dance." Some 
 were persuaded to go ; others could not. The thoughts 
 of going so soon made our spirits rather desponding. In 
 addition to oiir former acquaintances, we had the 
 pleasure of meeting several from two very amiable 
 boarding-schools, a little distance in the country ; indeed 
 we found that we were only beginning to know all. 
 This, however, is quite a ** sailor's life," and one he 
 must reconcile himself to, You visit a place, you 
 make the most agreeable associates, and the most 
 
 I 
 
114 
 
 DEPARTURE. 
 
 attached friends ; your hearts are just on the eve of 
 being revealed to each other, when you are ordered 
 to sea, and you part for ever. 
 
 At daylight the ship was unmoored and sail made, 
 but it was a dead calm, even the vessel herself was 
 unwilling to leave these friendly shores. The calm 
 continued all day, and in the cool of the evening a 
 boat filled with our friends came off to say adieu once 
 more. Unfortunately the accommodation ladder was un- 
 shipped, and they would not be "hoisted in," so it 
 occupied about one hour to bid a final, a last farewell I 
 
 "The less'ning boat unwilling rows to land; 
 Adieu! she cried, and waved her lily hand." 
 
 Day-dawn we were offl and sighed farewell to this 
 speck on the oceaft ; indeed, we could not help thinking 
 that our happiest days had fleeted by ; this day with us 
 was one of gloom and melancholy. Night closed over 
 Penang, and veiled from our view the island where we 
 had passed so many happy hours, perhaps never to see 
 again. 
 
 The day after leaving the ^' garden of India " was the 
 29th of February, *' leap year." Some began to reflect 
 and think perhaps it was fortunate they had left. I 
 must say if I may be permitted to judge, and midship- 
 men are pretty penetrating, in such matters they can see 
 as far as most people, that some of our messmates were 
 very far gone. I might here give many amusing illus- 
 trations to corroborate these views of mine, but perhaps 
 they would be found too touching, and instead of 
 making friends, or amusing the careless gleaner, they 
 might make enemies. 
 
KEDGEREE. 
 
 115 
 
 they 
 
 We called at Amherst, the seaport of Moulmein, 
 where our teak timber comes from, on the Rangoon 
 river ; and anchored after a long and tedious voyage at 
 Kedgeree, situated on the banks of the rapid and muddy 
 Hooghly. 
 
 A government steamer was immediately sent for the 
 Admiral and his retinue, and I was fortunate enough to 
 bo able to get away by her, and visit Calcutta, "the 
 city of palaces." It was the Governor-General's par- 
 ticular and pressing request that half the officers should 
 come to town and occupy a wing of his palace, for half 
 the period the ship was to remain in port ; after that 
 time, the remaining half were to relieve those. It was a 
 " city of palaces," in the widest sense of the term ; 
 a second cousin of mine was accidentally turned up, and 
 he made me take up my quarters with him. The city 
 surpassed all I had ever read or heard of it ; you were 
 scarcely allowed to put your feet to the ground, you 
 were gently handed from your boat to a palanquin fitted 
 up in the most luxurious and gaudy style, carried 
 by four bearers, your ** servant " by your side fanning 
 you, and doing all shopping and other laborious work for 
 you. The evening passed on the esplanade, where all 
 meet in the cool of twilight, on the banks of the 
 Ganges, to inhale the refreshing sea-breeze. That 
 night I luxuriated in a feather-bed and mosquito 
 curtains. Early in the morning my servant came with 
 a cup of coffee (your domestic always follows you 
 wherever you go, stands at the back of your chair 
 at dinner &c., and never leaves you ; sleeps on the door- 
 mat at night like a faithful dog.) " Coffee, Sahib," says 
 
 I 
 
I 
 
 I 
 
 J 
 
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 f i 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 116 
 
 CITY OF PALACES. 
 
 he, followed by a black fellow to shave, another to 
 cut the hair and pare the nails, and another to shampoo 
 me. Now I had not a morsel of beard on my chin, and 
 never had shaved, but I could not resist allowing the 
 fellow the satisfaction of lathering and scraping, at 
 which he appeared delighted, as the razor met with 
 no resistance. Then a bath, then a cup of tea, 
 and imtil the sun began to peep above the houses, 
 amused ourselves firing from the house-top at jackdaws, 
 vultures, and ravens (the scavengers of Calcutta, for 
 which you are fined fifteen dollars if seen destroying 
 them), and delighted at seeing them fall into a neigh- 
 bour's verandah, or among his grapes, with rather a 
 heavy crash. 
 
 I was taken to a number of interesting places, the 
 Mint, Museum, Fort William, and the Bazaars. During 
 the drive, my friend suddenly pulled up at the comer of 
 Tank Square, and looking round at me, asked **if 
 I knew where I was?" "This," says he, "is the exact 
 spot where once stood the famous, or rather infamous 
 Black Hole of Calcutta." I shuddered, and well recol- 
 lected having read that horrible story, where so many 
 unfortunates were smothered. It is in the middle 
 of the road, but not a vestige remains by which it may 
 be recognised I 
 
 Here, as indeed at all other places we had touched at, 
 every one appeared determined to show us that the suc- 
 cessful manner in which the war in Chins, bad been 
 concluded was not forgotten, and the public acknow- 
 ledgments, as well as private attentions, fully convinced 
 us of these facts. The Governor-General gave us 
 
THE BLACK HOLE. 
 
 r 
 
 117 
 
 a superb ball ; the residents gave another at Barracpore ; 
 the soldiers also came forward, and the private entertain- 
 ments would rob me of all my ''leaves" in enumerating 
 them. The good feeling towards us all was universal, 
 and will never be forgotten. 
 
 After a stay of three weeks we left Calcutta and 
 Kedgeree, and found ourselves once more rollin<' in the 
 heavy swell of the Indian Ocean. 
 
 I 
 
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 CHAPTER XIII. 
 SATURDAY NIGHT AT SEA. 
 
 BATUKDAY NIGHT AT SEA — SWEETHEARTS AND WIVES — OUT LIGHTS 
 — MADKAS llOADS — COMMODORE COCKLE — CATAMARANS — A 
 CARD — THE CLUB — A COUSIN — CROSS THE SURF — ESCAPE — 
 THE BALL — SINGING FISH — COCKROACHES — THE RACE — 
 TRINCOMALEE — SOBER ISLAND — DUNGAREE GREEN — "FALL 
 ON MY legs" — THE CHALLENGE — DOGS SHOT — IlIUNDER AND 
 LIGHTNING — "THE PLAGUE DEPARTS." 
 
 *' 'Twas Saturday night, the twinkling stars 
 
 Shone on the rippling sea ; 
 No duty called the jovial tars, 
 
 The helm was lashed a-lee. 
 The ample can adorned the board 
 
 Prepared to see it out, 
 Each gave the girl that he adored, 
 
 And pushed the grog about." 
 
 This is a night seldom or ever forgotten at sea ; a bowl 
 of punch is brewed. I have the following recipe from 
 an old messmate, well able to give an opinion on punch ; 
 ingredients as follows : — two port, one brandy, half pint 
 cherry-brandy, four wine-glasses lime-juice or lemons, 
 nutmegs, sugar, cloves to taste, ALL water spoils, screech- 
 ing hot in small tumblers. I can assure my readers that 
 after a fev> " small tumblers" of this insinuating and 
 exciting beverage, ail secrets are revealed. The glasses 
 
SWEETHEARTS AND WIVES. 
 
 119 
 
 nre filled by order of the president, and the toast, 
 " sweethearts and wives," drank with loud and enthu- 
 siastic applause. This is an evening at .sea, haiidod 
 down from time immemorial ; Jack .says, " IJefore Adam 
 was an oakum boy in Chatham Dockyard." When all 
 meet to drink to the health of those nearest and dearest 
 to them, they come together with one universal feeling 
 to bring before them, in spirit, those with whom their 
 lives appear to be linked together, and with whom their 
 happiest days have been spent. The evening is com- 
 menced by the ''toast;"" a song then from the first, 
 after which the initials ONLY of his object and her health 
 is drunk by all ; the next in turn, and so on. Woe to 
 the one who cannot sing, the sooner he learns the better ; 
 he has to pay for the ** punch," and it is astonishing 
 how soon he learns. One may, if he pleases, give a sen- 
 timent, or an anecdote, but it must relate to the " one," 
 whose health every one in duty bound has to drink. 
 This soon passes away an evening, until 9.30, when the 
 master-at-arms arrives. " Three bells, gentlemen, out 
 lights." " Oh, if you please, master-at-arms," says the 
 president, " ask for half-an-hour's lights." The master- 
 at-arms does as he is ordered. " Half-an-hour's lights 
 granted, Sir." Then songs ad lihihtnii as long as the 
 punch lasts ; perhaps " another brew." We have found 
 out a " birthday" by some extraordinary means. As I 
 have before said, a few tumblers of " this," the heart 
 melts, all is told in confidence, in strictest confidence I 
 and, " honour among thieves," it never goes beyond that 
 evening. We are now getting noisy ; choruses by all 
 hands have commenced ; a rap at the door, " Please, 
 
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if 
 
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 II 
 
 !i 
 
 120 
 
 COMMODORE COCKLE. 
 
 gentlemen, the first lieutenant's compliments, if there is 
 so much noise tlie lights must be put out." ** Oh, all right, 
 master-at-arms, all right 1" Singing commences again ; 
 another message ; no use. Four bells 1 rap at the door, 
 " Four bells, gentlemen." " Oh, let us finish this song, 
 master-at-arms ; shut the door." The song finishes ; 
 " Past four bells, gentlemer." *' All right, all right, 
 what sort of a night is it V* Another glass; ** She was a 
 lovely girl, she looked to me you know like wax." 
 " Nearly five bells, sirs." " Fair hair, ringlets, in the 
 second circle, her mother — ^" '* Come, gentlemen, out 
 lights, I must report it to the officer of the watch, Sir." 
 Five bells strikes, we all decamp. "Lights out some 
 time, master-at-arms." 
 
 Ditto, repeated every Saturday night, blow high, 
 or blow low ! 
 
 Arrive and anchor in Madras Beads, after a very 
 tedious, sultry, and disagreeable passage. 
 
 We are visited by Commodore Cockle, the man- 
 der-in-chief of the catamarans in the roadstt..... The 
 catamarans are plain double or single logs of wood, on 
 which the natives paddle through the surf, being only 
 sufficient to keep them afloat. They are sometimes 
 washed off them, and have frequently to pass right 
 through the wave ; and it is wonderful how dry and 
 clean they will bring off a letter or a parcel to you. 
 They have a piece of water-tight oilskin, in which it is 
 carefully wrapped, and tied round the head. 
 
 The Commodore is a "funny old fishj" he holds a 
 parchment commission from some old admiral (I think), 
 for saving a lif •, or boat's crew, but I am not certain 
 
 \ 
 
THE SURF. 
 
 121 
 
 which. Before crossing the surf, he has nothing on but 
 a paper hat and langooty, a facsimile of our old fiiend 
 tlie Postmaster- General at Anjier. Wlicn outside the 
 surf he commences dressing, puts on a secretary's un- 
 dress uniform coat, with epaulettes, cocked hat, &c. &c., 
 NO trowsers, and he comes up the side as dry (except his 
 legs, which must in a catamaran dangle overboard) as if 
 ho was in an admiral's barge, and makes his respectful 
 salaam! He supplies all ships with oysters and 
 ** cockles " — hence his name. 
 A card arrives — 
 
 *' The Society of Madras request the honour of the mid.s' mess 
 to a ball at the Banqueting llooni, on Friday next." 
 
 Also— 
 
 " The soldiers request our company at dinner, and tr consider 
 otu'selves honorary members of their mess and club." 
 
 Here, again, it was evident we were to be regaled by 
 a similar attention which has followed us round India, 
 
 I am lucky enough here to find another cousin ; they 
 are remarkably convenient relatives, when the lightness 
 of your purse will not permit of your going to an hotel. 
 
 To-day found me crossing the surf, the " Great 
 Madras Surf;" the danger-flag had only just been 
 hauled down. This is displayed on shore when the 
 surf is considered dangerous for boats to cross. None 
 but Masoulah boats can cross ; these are built of light 
 material (bark), sewn together with strips of the same, 
 pulled by ten or twelve natives, and an accident seldom 
 occurs. The commander of a vessel of war attempted 
 
i 
 
 V. 
 
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 if 
 
 122 
 
 ESCAPE. 
 
 the surf, in his gig, some years since, was capsized, and 
 all perished I 
 
 At first the prospect when you near the rollers is not 
 pleasant ; the stem, or bow of the boat, is kept exactly 
 on the crest of the wave ; you are over the first (there 
 are generally three great rollers), you are now in a 
 valley beneath two rollers ; there is nothing to be seen 
 but a dark green curtain of sea on either side, under 
 the crest of the waves far above you ; you rise on the 
 second wave, there is now the danger of the boat coming 
 broadside on, if she does, nothing will save you ; you will 
 be hurled over like a cork. The two after oai-s are 
 quickly laid in, and the pullers fall on their knees by 
 you to extort money I am sure. They slap their fore- 
 heads and offer up a prayer (I suppose), the others pull 
 lustily and make a fearful noise, the boat is pointed to 
 the third roller, rises on it majvestically, aid you are 
 thrown, boat and all, high and dry on the sands; all 
 jump out and haul her away fi-om the effect of the next 
 roller. The sea is alive with sharks between the rollers; 
 you can see their dorsal fin ploughing the wave, and 
 looking out eagerly for you if you should capsize. 
 
 Really the first time I was somewhat timid ; I cou.a 
 not understand their praying beside me : but after I had 
 crossed it fourteen times, it wae to me similar to landing 
 on the breakwater at Plymouth. 
 
 On one occasion of crossing the surf, the boat turned 
 completely round between the rollers, making her stern 
 her bows, for which they ure adapted. And on another 
 going off, the crew were all drunk, and nothing but the 
 still- watching hand of Providence could have rescued 
 
 *'I 
 
' 
 
 THE BALL. 
 
 12o 
 
 US. It is no use swimming on these occasions, the 
 moment you are out of the boat you are into a shark's 
 jaws, always hungry and ready for you. 
 
 This was our evening for tlje ball ; there was no room 
 in my cousin's carriage, but I was dii^en to the Ban- 
 queting Room in the handsomest " turn-out" and pair 
 of greys in Madras ! Here I met relatives of two very, 
 very old and esteemed messmates of mine (about two 
 years since), and the evening was numbered among our 
 best. I chose to remain long after all my friends had 
 left, and then I found myself without a conveyanje, and 
 it was too far to walk. I was soon ** picked up" by a 
 worthy friend, " who assisting a known friend in view, to 
 the utmost in his power," took me to his home, gave me 
 a bed and breakfast, and drove me to " Nun cum Bau- 
 cum," my temporary abode, ..ext dry. 
 
 It was the Nabob's birthday ! he was saluted with 
 a royal salute; and glories in having 100 wives! 
 
 For the first time in my life I heard a *' singing fish ; " 
 they adhere to the outside of the ship, and the noise 
 exactly resembles a rush of water through a small 
 aperture. I did not see it, therefore cannot describe it ; 
 nor could I find out any one who had seen one. 
 
 Wo sailed from, or rather were blown out of the roads, 
 by a violent squall with rain, thunder and lightning ; all 
 sail had to be shortened, the ports barred in, and the 
 ship allowed to blow before tho s(piall. 
 
 All vessels in India luft'er from those detestable vermin, 
 cockroaches ; it is impossible to keep them away ; they 
 not only come on board in your provisions, but "fly" off 
 to the ship. The second rlass boys have eacii tt) produce 
 twelve ever}- morning, when they are *' mustered" to 
 
 
r 
 
 I 
 
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 I'.' 
 
 124 
 
 EXCITING RACE. 
 
 SCO they are clean. They get a " fanam " for each one 
 short of the dozen; and they may be seen at night 
 vigorously poking out the comers and crevices to 
 obtain their number. A rat will count as twelve, and a 
 mouse as six, for these industrious small boys. 
 
 Frequently have I been ** attacked" when sleeping 
 on deck in the cool air by these desperadoes, regularly 
 attacked, aye, and beaten below too, and had to return 
 when I thought all was quiet to rescue my straw mat 
 and pillow on which I had been trying to sleep. At 
 night, when you are unconscious, they trim your nails ; 
 they are very fond of nails, parchment, book-covers, &a, 
 and books are completely disfigured by them. We have 
 but one punishment that I know of. When unoccti- 
 pied, or a tedious hour happens before dinner, two fine 
 cockroaches are obtained ; those about one inch and 
 three quarters long, having white necklaces, and barbed 
 feet, are preferred ; you back yom-s against your oppo- 
 nents, to i-un the length of the mess- table in the shortest 
 space of time. Two small slices of wax candle with 
 wicks are obtained, they are securely fixed by melted 
 drops of the same material on the backs of the racers. 
 You select your umpire, "prepare to start," you light 
 your tapers, the word "off" is given, away go your 
 animals, slowly at first (the battens prevent them 
 running off the sides of the table), they now begin 
 to foei ••' vyrrm " — move quicker — now they are at the 
 top of their speed — burning — they kick, plunge, as the 
 wax begins to dissolve around them — roasted. After a 
 few convulsive struggles, death follows, and they turn up ; 
 this is the last evolution. The one which has gained 
 the greatest distance is declared the winner. Midship- 
 
SOBER ISLAND. 
 
 125 
 
 man''s folly ; '* steward, a bottle of wine, put it down to 
 me;" "boy, here are two cockroaches for to-morrow 
 morning.'^ I must add, however, for credit sake, that ii 
 is only when driven to desperation by ennui that 
 these cruel amuseinmts are had recourse to. 
 
 Trincomalee Harbour, Ceylon, is a snug and complete 
 port for a vessel's refit, having a dock-yard, with all 
 conveniences, anchor wharf, gun wharf, &c. There is 
 also an island called "Sober Island," from the fact 
 that men can be allowed any amount of liberty without 
 the possibility of getting drunk, and it is also a good 
 bathing-place, being free from sharka 
 
 The very first evening our men had liberty there 
 many came off drunk. Four were flogged ; *' they kicked 
 bottles of rura out of the bushes, they said." 
 
 By the vivid flashes of lightning which almosi; every 
 evening prevailed, I took a tour round ** Dungaree 
 Green," the aristocratic nucleus of the residents of 
 Trincomalee. Nothing was to be seen but cocoa-nut 
 trees, black fellows, long grass, and lightning I But as tho 
 evening grew late I " fell on my legs," and was taken 
 where a most agreeable evening was j)assed, but had 
 nearly lost un the numi of our mess, for early in the 
 morning we were challeng* d by the sentry while scaling 
 the garrison walls to obtain a batht in ♦he sea. On the 
 two or three occasions of my again > isiting tli house 
 (for there were attractions there), it always so hajipc ed 
 that no sooner had I sat down to a game of hess, witli 
 one not much unlike the object of my early impressions, 
 on the treasure wharf, "fair hair and ringlets," than 
 instantly down came rain, thunder, and lightnimr tterly 
 
 
 I! 
 
 H 
 
 I! 
 
126 
 
 TIIK PLAGUK DEPARTS. 
 
 
 
 t 
 
 If 
 
 i I 
 
 provonting my escape ! nor would my kind and tlioiight- 
 flil friends think of allov ing mo to depart on so fearful 
 a night to go upon the water — ** 'Twas out of the ques- 
 tion." 1 had therefore the extreme happiness of passing 
 a long evening with one who was fast making an inroad 
 on my still young and susceptible heart. 
 
 Trincomalee being of so small extent, and the number 
 of midshipmen very lai-ge, our fame soon spread abroad ; 
 and we latterly (for we had been here six weeks) became 
 the terror of the peaceful inhabitants. Some lost their 
 favourite dogs, which were shot during midnight ; others 
 had their peace oi mind destroyed by anonymous visits 
 and letters to their young and innocent families; and 
 altogether we were looked upon as the scourge and 
 dread of the community, from the fact of our having no 
 rational enjoyment. It was impossible to go out during 
 the day from the unbearable heat of the sun, and there- 
 fore our wanderings were confined to twilight, or perhaps 
 later. 
 
 We were afterwards informed that no sooner had the 
 "terror of the peaceable inhabitants" departed, so 
 gieat was the joy that one more thankfiil and more 
 pious than the rest invited his friends to surround him ; 
 while he congratulated them in a short, spirited, but 
 pointed harangue, having for his text. "The plague 
 has gone out of Egypt." This we were told as a fact I 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 nOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND — FKELINOS — LEO OK Mt'TTON — VATX HOPE — 
 LEE 8U0KE — SAFETY — CAI'E OF GOOD HOPE — NEWS — 
 VI81T0K8 — MIDSHII'MAN's LARKS — ROLLING DOWN TO HT. 
 HKLKNA — A MELANCHOLY TALE — LADDEJl HILL — A HACRI- 
 FICE. — ASCENSION — "FIVE RKLLS, Sill" — ENGLISH CHANNKI. — 
 SPITHEAD — THE MEETING — THOSE EVKNING DELLS — KLDDEN 
 DEPAKTUUE — NEARLY DROAVNED — PAID OFF — SAFELY MOORED 
 — CONCLUSION. 
 
 " 'Tis Bweet to know 
 There is an eye will mark our coining." 
 
 Again we had that pleasing and never-to-be-forgotten 
 proppect before us, we were rolling our hammock- 
 nettings in the ever-undulating swell of the Indian 
 Ocean. We are all getting mad with joy at the bare 
 idea of again so soon seeing Old England ; it puts a 
 new life into us, the very thoughts of it, and some 
 of us in our elated moments do strange things. Our 
 dinners are what may be termed " banyan," and very 
 often "low diet," but the prospects of the bum-boats 
 with ** legs of mutton and trimmings" repay us for this. 
 On one occasion there was a leg of mutton for dinner, a 
 rare occasion, and one of our messmates was late at 
 

 
 
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 H 
 
 128 
 
 VAIN HOPK. 
 
 tjihlo. Oil his .arrival, nothin;^ but the bono was loft ; 
 lio ro(|ucstod the bono, but tho person carving tho joint 
 refused, as it was iUroatly ** well j)oli8ho(l ; " however, tho 
 hungry boy iuvsistod on having it, antl *' declared he 
 would .»at it." This led to an amusing feud, when 
 the carver of tho joint made a somewhat niali and 
 cxtnvagant bet that "he would not eat it," which bet 
 was accepted. The hungry boy took the huge bone 
 in his hand, flourished it in delight, repaired to tho 
 sick-bay, whore he obtained a pestle and mortar, broke 
 tho bono in small pieces, pounded it up into a pulp, and 
 actually demolished every morsel, winning his wager. 
 It had no bad effect 1 but I forget if he ever obtained 
 his well-earned bet. 
 
 We had now been some time at sea, it seemed to 
 us longer than usual, I suppose as we wore anxious, 
 anxious for home, and anxious for our arrival at tho 
 Capo as a half-way house. Wo were running with all 
 sail, studding-sails alow and aloft, every stitch the vessel 
 couKl cram on her, within a few miles of the land, and 
 had hoped to be at anchor that self-same evening. 
 " Nothing could prevent it," we thought Alas ! how 
 vain is hope, suddenly down came a "north-wester" 
 in all its fury, and all sail was reduced to a storm main 
 stay-sail. The sea rose in mountains, as it always 
 does on the L'Agulha's Bank, and the ship rolled and 
 strained in an awful manner ; we were in dangerous 
 proximity to the land, runners were got over the mast- 
 heads for getting top-masts and lower-yards on deck, 
 and all preparations made for the worst events. We were 
 on a lee-shore. Tho weather got thick and hazy, and 
 
 
SAI'KTV. 
 
 12!) 
 
 tliat ni^ht was passed in most intonso anxiety, our only 
 fonsolution and hope in our distrosH was, that wliile wo 
 were "rockiufT to and fro, and Htag/^eriug like drunken 
 men at our witH ends," " lie who walks on tlio waters, 
 and rides upon the storu)," was guiding ourhelpU-ss hark. 
 It moderated towards noon, the sky broke and the sta 
 abated ; and the next day wo anchored in safety. 
 
 This, and many amusing inciclonts connected with 
 this portion of tho passage, which, however unwilling, I 
 may be to pass without a remark, I cannot risk the 
 chance of being considered personal. Indeed, scarcely a 
 day or evening passed without what I would term 
 a " midshipman's event ;" and although they remain 
 fresh in my memory, and in my original '' leaves," 1 
 cannot now connnit them to j)aper. Those alone of 
 tho big gun, the court martial, rose cottage, tho 
 economical dinner, would fdl a volume of themselves if 
 proi)ei'ly and carefully brought forth ; and I must regret 
 not feeling at liberty or safe in producing them. 
 
 The only news we heard on our arrival was, that the 
 Captain of the iSlashcr had died — Dan O'Connell was a 
 
 prisoner — and that Mrs K sends off her card to say, 
 
 "she docs up linen in the English style on mc&t 
 moderate terms." On going on shore, I was rejoiced to 
 find "all alive," though not all happy. Those at the 
 "Crown Inn" (country people of mine) progressing. 
 The " smalKtea- party house" near the turn[>ike well, 
 but a mishap in the family. Those at "the wax-candle 
 shop," thriving ; and poor Margaret the chamber-maid 
 at the hotel in " Chokey." 
 
 We had now the pleasure of showing a few of oui' 
 
 K 
 
 
! 
 
 130 
 
 VISITORS. 
 
 friends (on former occasions) round the ship on their 
 arrival from Winebcrg, chatting and recalling former 
 events in our younger days. 
 
 It is a great amusement to a wicked midshipman 
 to show round a party of people who know nothing of 
 a vessel, in fact, who perhaps never were before on board 
 a ship of war. With them it is really no use calling 
 the various and many articles by their nautical terms, they 
 would not understand you ; and it is your duty to 
 simplify them as much as possible. For instance, what 
 would it avail, if they asked you "how you let the 
 anchor go," or "how you fastened it?" If you talked to 
 them of the '* shank painter " and cat head stopper, 
 they would imagine you to be talking of a lean long- 
 legged artist, or giving chase to the cat, and calling out 
 " stop her." Or, how much would they be enlightened 
 by your telling them how the ship was tacked ; if you 
 mentioned stays, braces, and buntlines, they would 
 immediately imagine themselves in a milliner's shop. 
 Therefore it is always better to simplify these terms as 
 much as possible ; and in doing so, the happy mid. takes 
 to himself the credit of making the visitor be-.jve all, and 
 swallow all he is cramming them with. Yet many a 
 laugh and joke have I had while going the rounds, 
 and many an amusing scene enjoyed. Strange stories 
 we have told of the wings, the cable tiers, the amputar 
 tion table; all credited by the kind, smiling, and 
 amiable disposition of the visitor. 
 
 We are again " rolling down to St. Helena ;" and 
 while so doing I must repeat a painfully melancholy, yet 
 romantic story, told me after I had recollected that 
 
 
A MELANCHOLY TALE. 
 
 131 
 
 1 had been staring fixedly and intently on one of 
 the most exquisite figures in South Africa. "Come, 
 my dear fellow, what's the matter with yon, why do you 
 look 80 thoughtful?" says an old and worthy messmate of 
 mine, who happened to pass by, placing his hand on 
 my shoulder just after I had lost sight of her. "Oh I" 
 said I, " that lovely figure 1 Did you not notice her, as 
 she passed quietly along a minute or two since, dressed 
 in deep mourning, her eyes cast down to the ground, 
 her pace slow and trembling, as if sufiering from mental 
 anguish; her form true and faultless, which would 
 attract a far less admirer than mysel f ; the beauty of a 
 face " — I stopped myself, and said, "Do you know hert" 
 "Oh I perfectly well," says my "old ship;" "if you will 
 stroll with me along the road I'll tell you all about her." 
 I eagerly seized the chance, and placing my arm within his, 
 exclaimed, "Aliens done mon ami." He commenced :— 
 " The steam vessel HeaiileaSj which was at that time 
 attached to the squadron under a Kear- Admiral's orders, 
 and noted for being such a succ(.'ssful slave-catcher 
 (having one or two constantly in tow), was lying at* 
 anchor in the bay, prepared for a long voyage to the 
 sickly Zambezi river. One of her unfortunate oflficers, 
 whose name I cannot at present recollect, was a constant 
 guest at the gallant Admiral's house, and could not resist 
 admiring a frequent visitor to the Commander-in- 
 Chief's daughters, who with her were alike conspicuous 
 for their beauty, thuir elegance, as well as for their 
 accomplishments. In short, he found himself in that 
 vortex— Love, to which we are all more or less weak. 
 He solicited her hand (for her heart had long been his), 
 
 k2 
 
132 
 
 A SAD TALE. 
 
 1*1 
 
 which she after short deliberation gave. They were en- 
 ga<^e(l, for they were strongly attached, thinking every 
 moment nought in which they did not enjoy each other's 
 society, and breathe each other's sighs. A house was pro- 
 cured and furnished, which was to contain the happy cou- 
 ple ; dresses for the occasion were ordered and fitted ; the 
 bride cake, which was to come from a distance of twenty- 
 five miles, was on the road ; and every thing prepared for 
 the apparently happy wedding, when the steamer was 
 ordered to intercept a slaver that had been seen in that 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 "In the mean while his fair object leaves all, and 
 retires to her new house to prepare it for him, on whom 
 all her thoughts were bent, and the forthcoming eventful 
 time. 
 
 " Three weeks elapse, and the steamer returns; and she, 
 who had buoyed her hopes to the very highest pitch, 
 of being that very week wedded to one whom she adored, 
 now beheld him fallen a victim to the fever, which 
 had made rapid and dreadful havoc on his constitution, 
 • and in fact scarcely allowed him to be recognised. But 
 the features were too deeply engraven on her memory to 
 forget them ; she swooned, or fainted. He was hoisted 
 out of the vessel in his cot, and sent to the hospital, 
 where she again attended with her usual affection to his 
 wants. 
 
 "But the 'king of terrors' had marked him for h's 
 prey ; and in a few hours he, who was to have been 
 maiTied on that very day, was no more. 
 
 " Many, many, were the tears (I was told) she shed 
 over his lifeless remains (which she daily visited), afler 
 
i 
 
 ST. HELENA. 
 
 1811 
 
 they were consigned to their resting-place. IIo, in 
 the goodness of his heart, and in his last words, left 
 her all he possessed. 
 
 ^'This was some months before my arrival there; 
 and now she was about to bestow her hand on an 
 old messmate of mine, whom she had met in the room in 
 
 which her late intended breathed his last." 
 
 * • • • • 
 
 After he had concluded his painful nsirrative, I could 
 hardly prevent a tear falling, but which I endeavoured 
 to hide. The only sight I had obtained of her, for an 
 instant, had already made me sympathize with her 
 sad bereavement. 
 
 At St. Helena our stay was very limited. And for 
 the short time allotted to us for a ramble, I took another 
 direction to tliat on a former occasion, not forgetting the 
 poor impression that "the tomb," and all connected 
 with it, made on me. I visited the Forts and Ladder Hill 
 of 680 steps, which, after once ascending and descending, 
 you are ready to return fagged on board. I was more 
 fortunate in landing than on a former visit. 
 
 We sailed on a FHday, that unfortunate day. Sailors 
 are very superstitious in this respect ; the majorir.y of 
 them will never sail on a Friday — will do nothing on 
 a Friday. To counteract this, something must now 
 be done. We must make a sacrifice. We had brought 
 a lady from the East Indies, who was left at one of 
 the ports passed by. She had brought a cat with her ; 
 but we concluded, after duly considering the matter, 
 there was not that love for the creature usually evinced 
 between a mistress and her pet, as it was forgotten 
 
, 
 
 
 1^ 
 
 134 
 
 ASCENSION. 
 
 on board. This tabby caused us (niids.) many a sleepless 
 night, by bewailing the loss of its kind mistress. Now 
 was our time lor revenge. The tabby was sought for 
 and found ; placed struggling into u boot, after much 
 scratching and mowrowing; and in this manner silently, 
 and in the dead of night, committed to the waters. Wo 
 never could find who committed the last act. 
 
 At Ascension wo have the usual unfortunate cargo 
 of sick and invalids — they are very numerous. The 
 coast is particularly unhealthy this season, and our 
 decks are crammed with unhappy fellows, in the last stages 
 of sickness and fever, hoping that their native climate 
 will again restore them. One dies shortly after wo 
 sail, and his remains are consigned to a watery grave. 
 
 At five bells (half-past six) every morning, the 
 young gentlemen's hammocks are piped up ; the steerage 
 or cockpit hammocks, as they are called. Each mid. 
 has a '' hammock man," whom he pay« five shillings 
 tt month for scrubbing and keeping his hammock, &.C., 
 in order. The one who is last up, or who delays the 
 stowing of the hammocks, is punished. Some mid- 
 shipmen can sleep more, ana are happier in their 
 consciences than others ; these require more *' rousing " 
 and more persuading. Five bells strikes ! " up all steer- 
 age hammocks," ciies the boatswain and his mates. 
 Down they all rush — give you a shake, "five bells, sir;" 
 you pretend not to hear it. "Come, sir, five bells;" 
 you go on the other tack, and haul the b' nket over 
 your head. Another violent shake— ** five bells, sir, the 
 hammocks are piped up this some time;" you turn 
 round and growl, *' what sort of a morning is it. Jinks ?" 
 
FIVK liKLLS. 
 
 135 
 
 " Oi. I fine morning, sir"" (pouring rain perlmps). " Coino, 
 sir, show a leg." "Do you sco my traps there ready 
 for washing, Jinks?" '^ Yos^ sir, all ready" (never looking 
 at all.) '* Come, air, out ov down." " How is it ni^ bed 
 is all on one side, Jinks ' you see I'm all over to port." 
 "I'm sure I t.on't know, s,*r, I slung it lair enough 
 on Saturday night." Master at arms and corporals 
 arrive. *'Come, sir, come. Hammocks are pi[)ed up 
 this half hour. They're waiting to stow yours. I must 
 report it to the commander." " Oh ! all right, do 
 you see my hammock man there ?" " Yes, sir, he says 
 hero I am this half hour and it's no use." Perhaps 
 you are now over some one's chest who wants to 
 wash, he comes and rattles at your hammock, knocking 
 your head against the beams, and throwing all 
 your clothes out on the deck. Still yon are loathe to 
 leave your " two yards of canvas ;" and after a stretch, 
 and a yawn^ and an " oh dear 1 " out you come. This 
 is an every morning occurrence with some, who, perhaps, 
 have had the middle watch, or who have had their 
 rest disturbed by unfair means. 
 
 A S.W. gale brought us into the English Channel, 
 where we sighted the land of " strawberries and cream ;" 
 but a S.E. gale then met us, and for some days kept 
 us in the Channel under storm stay sails in a heavy 
 sea. We were not many miles now from all those 
 near and deor to us, but a hard-hearted gale made 
 every moment appear to us an age. At last the gale 
 abates, — takes compassion on us, — and allows us to make 
 sail ; and we plough our way proudly and majestically 
 into Spithead, with our hearts alive with joy, gratitude, 
 
fv 
 
 136 
 
 THK MKKIINO. 
 
 and thankfulness, that wf> liad again been saved 
 frou. storm and tempest, and from the perils and 
 dangers of the sea. 
 
 The spire of St. Thomas' Church pointed out again 
 the spot which I was longing to behold. I obtained 
 leave the moment the ship was secured. I rushed 
 on shore in the quickest watcmian's wherry-boat along- 
 side. And it was not many minutes before I was again 
 clasping in ray embrace the loveliest creature on earth. 
 
 "So you have arrived at last I What an age it appears 
 since you last said to me, * adieu for ever I * Do you 
 remember those words, Charles dear?" "Yes, Emile, 
 I have an'ived, and moreove; I am safe; and it is to 
 an ever present and ever bountiful Providence that 
 both vou and I owe our safetv at this moment. I 
 in particular have much tc be thankful for. I have 
 been muic than once saved from storm, from fire 
 and sword, shipwreck and tlie enemy. 1 do recollect 
 saying *for ever,' and it would have been so, if I 
 had not been guided by Ilim who is always watching us, 
 but we are not grateful enough to acknowledge it. You, 
 my charming Emile, are looking more young and more 
 beautiful, if possiulo, than ever." "Yes, my sailor boy, 
 it is the ])rospect of seenig you that makes me appear 
 young ; it recalls to me my younger days, and the 
 first moment when I saw you. But your latter remark 
 flatters me, my Charles.*' " Not so, my dear Emile, I do 
 not flatter, 'tis tnie ; but listen, don't you hear the 
 bells of our old church cliiniing? They remind me 
 of the sweet song you sang the last time we parted ; 
 perhaps ycu will not think me tiresome in asking 
 
 
 } 
 
NARKdW ESCAPE. 
 
 l.n 
 
 you to repeat it Emile smiled assent; and I led 
 her to the piano. She commenced that simple, yet 
 beautiful song of Moore's, ** Those Evening Bells." 
 
 "Those evening bells, those evening bells. 
 How many a tale their music tells 
 Of youth und hope, and that sweet time, 
 When last I heard their soothing chirae. 
 
 "Those joyous hours arc passed away, 
 And many a heart that then was gay 
 Within th tomb now darkly dwells, 
 And hears no more those evening bells." 
 
 " And so 'twill bo when I am gone." " When I am 
 gone !" '* By the bye," said I, interrupting Emile, " have 
 I not told you, dearest Emile, that 1 have only come 
 to ask how you are, and to say 'good bye,' and 
 to be off again?" Emile hung down her head, and 
 those soft, silky ringlets, were hiding a tear. "Cheer 
 up, my Emile," said I. " You know it is quite a sailor's 
 life — here to-day, and gone tomorrow. You must 
 reconcile yourself to these short and sudden visits 
 in a sailor's wanderings." Emile could not speak, — 
 her heart had burst, — and her eyes overflowed with 
 tears, I led her back to the sofa, — pressed her hand 
 to my lips. — And I was sitting in a boat, going off 
 tc my ship, before many seconds had passed away. 
 That evening was nearly my last. The night was 
 very dark indeed, much in unison with my feelings 
 at til? moment; and we could scarcely see a cable's 
 length a-head. A man and his young son were pulling. 
 
138 
 
 SAFELY MOOIIED. 
 
 and had arrived as far as Spithead, and I was looking 
 about for my ship, when the Havre Steam Packet 
 came in through the Needles at full speed ; and she 
 was close upon us. Nothing could be seen or heard 
 but her paddle-box lights, and the loud splashing of 
 her wheels. The more we pulled away, the more 
 we appeared to be getting under her stem. We 
 imagined she was going up the harbour. All stood 
 up in the boat — she was close on us. We screamed, 
 but our cries were lost in the noise of the paddle 
 wheels, and the steam blowing off. I had my bag 
 in my hand, and was jusi on the point of jumj)ing 
 overboard, when, by a providential turn, she kept 
 away, and went to sea on her voyage. 
 
 At dawn of day we sailed, and a slashing wind soon 
 brought us in sight of the " Sweet land of the West," 
 where we anchored ; but not before we had a deluge of 
 rain, natural to the West of England, and a smart 
 S.W. gale. The ship was soon paid ofif ; and we were 
 once more at liberty, free as the lark. 
 
 I am now safely moored on shore. I am not going to 
 tire the patience of my young readers, who have so 
 kindly followed on the voyages to India and China, 
 by taking them to sea again for a short time. I have 
 given positive orders to the servant '' to call me if 
 it blows hard," which she does. I put my hand out 
 of the window, but I don't see it. " All right to-night," 
 think I myself "No reefing top-sails," although the 
 wind is howling about your house. No beef boat at 
 half-past four in the morning. I press my nose into 
 my pillow, and haul the sheets, as Jack says, ''flat 
 aft again." 
 
CONCLUSION. 
 
 139 
 
 I am now about to pass my examination for a 
 midshipman; and, therefore/ 1 shall find employment 
 sufficient for a few days. And this is fortunate, for 
 I should not like to press immediately on my young 
 readers, what may appear to some of them ** tedious 
 yams." The few incidents which I have narrated must 
 be considered as appertaining only to a mid. in his 
 young, and, I may say, thoughtless days ; next will follow 
 his boyhood, — then his youth ; in each of which I hope 
 a ])erceptibly progressive improvement will be noticed. 
 Each little incident, however, is narrated exactly as 
 it happened ; " true " without embellishment, without 
 imagination, without fiction. If any should, however, 
 incur the censure of the reader for inelegance, or 
 impropriety, they will always have the satisfaction 
 of knowing, that *'fact" is their motto and basis; 
 and that they only wanted a little colouring, or a 
 little refining, to make them acceptable. This the 
 mid. of ** two years' standing" does not pretend to do. 
 
 I must here call to mind the fact, and I have 
 no doubt it has been noticed before, that among the 
 very many anecdotes and tricks to which midshipmen 
 are naturally prone from their lightness of heart and 
 flighty disposition, none are mtilicious, or bad, or done 
 with an evil motive; all for mere fun, fancy, and 
 pastime. And, therefore, I think we may hope for 
 forgiveness from those who no doubt consider some 
 of these tricks, that I have related, '* shocking "III 
 
PAET SECOND. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 JACK ON SHORE." 
 
 TRICKS OX SnOllE — TITE OMNTBrs — AX TNTERKSTTXO VOYAGE — 
 FITTING OCT — OFFICERS— TEIUIOR AND EREBUS — SAD ACCI- 
 DENT — A LONG ADIEU. 
 
 "I.or' how I pity 
 .Unhappy folk on shore, sirs," &c. 
 
 Old Song. 
 
 It may not bo gcDerally known, and may be bettor 
 to confess before it is so, tliat a midshi[)man is quite 
 as alive to ** tricks " on shore, as he is at sea ; and 
 domestic girls sufier sometimes. The sheets, or table- 
 cloths, are reefed when hung out to dry (that is, 
 made up in hard balls which no one can open) ; the 
 clothes lines are " sheepshanked," or tied in true 
 lover's knots ; and the cat frequently sufFera. But one 
 good naturcd trick makes amends for one dozen of 
 these mischievous ones. And I recollect on one 
 occasion after I had come on shore with a little 
 
THK (JMNIBUS. 
 
 141 
 
 prize-money in my pocket, — for you must know that 
 it is an old and true saying, " a Siiilor and his money 
 soon part," — I had to take a trip in an omnibus (the 
 Green Atlas, if I recollect right) from the Elephant and 
 Castle, in London, to Charing Cross, fare threepence. 
 Now I did not know much of London, as it may 
 be very soon seen. The Buss was "^ull inside," and 
 a mighty agreeable collection of pau^-sengers they ap- 
 peared to be, all chatting, and so polite. Would insist 
 on your tsiking the upper arm most comfortable seat 
 away from the door, out of the draft, every one moving 
 to the doorway when a new arrival appeared. Well, 
 we started full (but lost two on the passage), ten 
 remaining for Charing Cross, our destination. As I 
 was the first in, and sat near tlie door to be attentive in 
 handing ladies in, I was of course the first out. I 
 counted heads, and found ten ; ton times three, thought 
 I to myself, thirty ; thirty pence are two and sixpence. 
 I'll pay for all hands. The Buss stopped, "Charing 
 Cross, sir." *' Cross, Ma'am," touching the rim of his 
 hat so polite. Before I alighted, I announced to them 
 inside my intention of paying for "all hands." They 
 said nothing, looked at me, and looked at each other, as 
 much as to say, " Poor fellow, he's a little gone." 
 Again I assured them of my determination to pay 
 for all, placing " half-a crown " in the conductor's hand, 
 and telling them that if they paid again, they would 
 be paying twice over. Well, they looked harder still 
 at me ; never said " I'm obliged to you." So I was 
 walking away, when the polite conductor placed his 
 
142 
 
 FAIREST OF THE FAIR. 
 
 finger gently upon my arm, piit the half-crown between 
 his teeth with a knowing twitch of the eye, hit it 
 to sec if it was good. Thank you, sir, says he, touching his 
 hat smartly, and off I walked. 
 
 On another occasion, I was attracted by a very 
 new and pretty waltz (I was always fond of music), 
 that was playing by a very enlivening band in an 
 enclosed place. My curiosity and love for music 
 induced me to enter. It was then a little past ** quarter 
 day ;" and I had a few shillings, which were fast burning 
 a hole in my pocket. I entered the enclosure, beau- 
 tifully decorated (not myself, but the enclosure) with 
 flags and evergi'eens, around which were numerous 
 stalls, presided over by the "Fairest of the Fair;" 
 and that was the name of " the waltz " that attracted 
 me. It was a fancy bazaar in aid of some charitable 
 institute. I paid my shilling, like every one else I 
 suppose, and walked in. I was at once assailed by 
 an iiTesistible appeal from several smiling faces. " Oh, 
 do put in for this, sir ; we only want one more member 
 for this wax doll ; see it will open and shut its eyes." 
 *' How wonderful," said I ; " they must have taken me for 
 a * happy' man."" ''What am I to do with the wax 
 doll," I asked, " if I should win it ?" '*0h, we'll send it 
 for you, sir." '* Oh, I am sure you will raffle for this 
 watch guard." ** How much?" said I. "Halt-a-crown." 
 " Herc''s a beautiful chair, worked by the prettiest girl in 
 the town ; you cannot refuse to put in for that." *' That is 
 yourself, of course," said I, taking a ten shilling ticket. 
 And, she added, " here are a pair of baby's shoes for 
 
A FANCY FAIR. 
 
 143 
 
 it 
 
 the second prize." ** Oh I charming," thought I. " What 
 name, sir 1 " " Oh, anything you like, ma'msclle. Please 
 yourself, and I cannot but be pleased." I had now reached 
 the top of the apartment, and £3 lis. 6d. had been 
 devoted to tickets. I had one shilling left; and 
 announced the fact to those around me in a touching 
 and affecting speech, which they did not believe one 
 word of I reached the end of the building where 
 I at first entered, and pulling out my last shilling, 
 handed it to the young ladies, with a hope that 
 they would now allow me to pay my way out. I 
 never hear that waltz, but I think of my £3 17s. 6«?., 
 and the black eyes and ringlets by which I was 
 imperceptibly drawn in. 
 
 I must now inform my young readers — that I am 
 a midshipman of four years standing — that I have 
 mounted a clean white patch — that I intend to keep 
 it clean and untarnished from any of the boyish 
 "tricks" confessed in my former "leaves." I have 
 to thank you, however, for perusing them ; and for 
 following me so perseveringly and so patiently through 
 storm and calm, through tempest and war — during 
 two long, tedious, and uninteresting voyages, over 
 a period of four years— to China, the East Indies, 
 and elswhere. 
 
 I suppose you will now expect something more 
 than mere "tricks." Well, I must confess I do feel 
 a little above those now ; although I can still join 
 in what is termed a " sky-lark " with all my heart. 
 
 I am now going to promise you (as a reward for 
 patience) an outline, or a mere cursorv view of one of 
 
144 
 
 AN FNTKUESTINO VoVAOE. 
 
 1 
 
 the most delightful, interesting, profitable and successftil, 
 yet protracted voyages round the world, ever I believe 
 performed by one of Her Majesty's ships. Delightfiil, 
 because led and commanded by a good-natured Irish 
 heart. Interesting, because it extended over the " world 
 of watcra;" from the Arctic Sea to the South Seas, 
 from the East Indies and China, to Africa, America, and 
 Siberia, Profitable and successful for numerous reasons, 
 particularly for enlightening the world to many places 
 before unknown. Protracted, from unforeseen events, 
 and from zeal and determination to conclude it 
 effectually and creditably. 
 
 To give, in detail, all events connected with this 
 pleasing cruise would fill volumes, and, perhaps, tire 
 the reader before he waded through half of them. 
 My intention is, however, to pass over political and 
 historical events, and profound reading; and to lay before 
 the young reader all that I think likely to amuse and 
 instruct, as briefly as I am able. And in doing so, I 
 shall be • compelled to pass over many occurrences, 
 for if I entered into all, my leaves, which were only 
 intended as a " pocket-book," would swell into a 
 a mass scarcely portable. I shall, therefore, confine myself 
 almost exclusively to my own midshipman's ideas. 
 
 The ship had completed her fitting at one of the 
 worst of seaport towns. All the trouble, inconvenience, 
 and bother of preparing for sea, from a mere hulk 
 to an effective vessel of war, was o\'er. And although 
 it occupied months, we congratulated ourselves on 
 the ship being in every respect perfect ; perhaps not 
 perfectly symmetrical in her lines outwardly, but 
 
OFFKERS. 
 
 145 
 
 inwardly comfortable and happy in ourselves, we had one 
 of the best, gallant, and most good-natured of captains, 
 our first lieutenant a typo of a sailor ; the other officers 
 specially chosen for their amiability of disposition, 
 and their philosophy of temper to meet many of the 
 tr}'ing scenes which wc had to encounter; therefore 
 it all depended on ourselves whether we were to 
 be a ** happy ship " or not. 
 
 The only object of particular notice when fitting out, 
 was our being the last vessel of war to wave our caps to 
 the ill-fated Ten'or and Erebus, Franklin's expedition. 
 I had many true, warm-hearted and brave messmates 
 amongst them, and I can answer for myself, on that 
 day wishing health and God speed with all my heart. 
 It was the same day that we were inspected by the 
 Port Admiral, and manning yards answered the double 
 piurpose, of respect to one, success to the other. 
 
 The day of our final sailing from the west of England 
 was rendered melancholy by a sad accident : several 
 of the men's wives and families had been on board 
 to take a last farewell, and when on their return 
 from final parting (and they in reality said "adieu 
 for ever"), the boat was caught in a squall, four women 
 and two children met a watery grave ; the crew 
 were saved by clinging to the boat; thus our departure 
 had a sad gloom cast over it. However, off we started, 
 and this accident, added to the fact that we were leaving 
 all near and dear to us for many years, made us 
 both desponding and gloomy; many a tear was shed, 
 and many a heart sank within, as the white cliffs 
 of old England faded from our view. 
 
 L 
 
146 
 
 A LONG ADIEU. 
 
 *' While tlcw the veaoel on her snowy wing, 
 And Hcvtin^;; Hhorcs receded from uur sight." 
 
 ''Adieu then to old England, and farewell to all 
 those who think of us," said we, turning our backs 
 on the land we might never see again. It was my 
 first watch, every moment appeared an hour, the 
 night closed slowly and drearily over us, and the 
 land had entirely disappeared ; I leaned on the nettings 
 and gazed on the spot where land was last seen, 
 hoping to get one more glimpse of it ; but no, it had 
 gone I Then we exclaimed, " There ! that spot contains 
 all we own near and dear to us, and wo are to part 
 for years, perhaps for ever." With these feelings we 
 endeavoured to obtain rest ; our thoughts first wanderetl 
 towards home, then on the next sea that was about 
 to strike us, for a gale from S.W. had now raised 
 the waves to a considerable height — wo were in a storm. 
 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 OUTWARD BOUND. 
 
 OCTWARD BOUND — LAST OMMISK — PORTO 8ANT0 — TENKRIFFE — 
 BRITISH COLOURS — AN ADVENTURE — A PIRATE — IN DISTRESS 
 
 — EQUATOR — FERNANDO NORONHA — RIO — MAN OVERBOARD 
 
 — FALKLAND ISLES — BOAT CAPSIZED — ROUNDINO THE HORN — 
 EIGHT 0ALE8 — ICEBERfi — AN AWFUL GALE — TWO THIRDS 
 ALLOWANCE — VALPARAls. . — AN EXECUTION — SPANISH WAKE — 
 EARTHQUAKE — PAPUDO — SAN LORENZO — CALLAO — TRIP TO 
 LIMA — LIMA — BALL OF GOLD — BULL FIGHT — PATTA — SANTA 
 CLARA. 
 
 " As slow our ship lur foamy track 
 Against the wind was cleaving, 
 Hor trembling i)cnnant still look'd back 
 
 To that dear isle 'twas leaving. 
 So loath we part from nil wo love, 
 From all the links that bind us; 
 So turn our hearts, as on we rove. 
 To those we've left behind us." 
 
 Tom Moore. 
 
 On passing "Porto Santo," it was decided we were 
 not to go to " Madeira." "Vyith what effect that decision 
 struck me may be concluded, for I had looked forward 
 to meeting old friends, particularly those at whose 
 house I had performed so well on the "bread and 
 butter"; and it also would have aflforded me an op- 
 portunity of en([uiring after the poor old woman 
 
 L 2 
 
118 
 
 TKNKRIFFK, 
 
 wlio hail sutt'oivd by the lM>ltin^r of my American 8too«l. 
 I consoled mvKoIf, liowevcr, with mnkin^ a Hketch 
 of Porto Santo ami thoHo diHnml " DoHcrtns." 
 
 I was ahnost glad, on dropping anchor at Tcnuriife, 
 that wo liad passed Madeira, for it ailbrdcd nic nn 
 opportunity of seeing a spot not before visited and 
 wliich 1 may not sec again; and as there are many 
 interesting events connected with it and the immortal 
 Nelson, I must devote a leaf to it. 
 
 The town itself is miserable enough, most Spanish 
 towns are; the ancient forts are curious, and the 
 bum boats supply you abundantly with fruit, bread, 
 and pets. 
 
 The first spot landed on was the memorable fort 
 where Nelson met a partial defeat and lost his arm. 
 On reaching the church on which stands "Nelson's 
 Tower," in sexagonal form. We could not help being 
 struck with the peculiarly iiisciuating figures and the 
 piercing eyes of the Spanish ladies, wliich made it 
 quite dangerous to encounter them. In Nelson's 
 Church the figure of the Virgin Mary appeared life 
 itself; it was impossible to gaze on the melancholy 
 face and form without feeling a gloomy chili at the 
 countenance of utter despair, it was a perfect repre- 
 sentation. We passed the glass case containing the 
 lost British colours, placed in the most conspicuous 
 part of the building ; and in doing so I longed to 
 be one of a few who may have a chance of cutting 
 them out and rescuing them, which might be accom- 
 plished in a "jolly boat." Here one of our young 
 niids. had a misadventure with a "lance corporal," 
 
 " j. - z- ' -ua r a -^^v-B 
 
A I'lllATK. 
 
 119 
 
 ig 
 
 and Hnisliod ni\' with No. 5*2 watcli-lioiiHO. Tin* (rorrott 
 version of the story wo could never properly ascertain, 
 tlieroforo I must not imagine it ; lie however escnpcd 
 witli nothing m(»rc than stiff joints and a hcnihiche, 
 hut for which release ho was indohted in some manner 
 to an individual ahout to he hanged that vciy day, 
 but which was |>ostponed, as a hangman could not 
 ho found; a Spaniard, however, volunteered to "stick 
 him" pidilicly for a dollar. The unforttmntc wretch 
 had been in prison seventeen years, and had been 
 coudennu'd to death as a pirate. 
 
 A day or two allcr leaving Teneriffo we had tUr 
 pleasure to relieve from starvation a sniall Spanish 
 schooner with thirty-five men, they had been blown off 
 the land, and knew not their whereabouts ; they were 
 without food, and but two pints of water remaining. 
 If we had not met them they must have fallen a 
 sacrifice to hunger and thirst. Biscuit and water was 
 sent sufficient to carry them to TenerifTe. 
 
 Again the lino wiis crossed, and again Neptmie, the 
 god of the sea, visited us. On this occasion, his wife 
 looked charming, dressed in some female attire brought 
 from the seaport where we fitted out, by one of our 
 " mild tars " ; the carriage drawn by six horses (second- 
 class boys), and the footman the " black cook," really 
 all went off amusingly, and amazingly well. 
 
 The sea was so transparent that a dinner plate was 
 seen at the depth of seventy-eight feet from the surface. 
 
 " Fernando Noronha " was seen, the peak of which is 
 very peculiar, with its northern face beyond the per- 
 {)endicular ; the fort was plainly visible, which is guarded 
 
[! i 
 
 150 
 
 RIO. 
 
 by Bra/jlian troops. This is the place of banishment 
 for Brazilian convicts, the vilest wretches in the world. 
 
 Kio was reached in safety, but the harbour appeared 
 deserted in comparison to my last visit An evening 
 promenade in Soap Street was all we had to amuse 
 us during our stay here, indeed we were too busy 
 to attend to anything, preparing for sea occupied all 
 our attenl.jns; but one day I ijcollect being sent 
 on what afterwards turned out an unpleasant duty, 
 and it had to be performed in the " rickety skiff." 
 The armourer and blacksmith having some work to 
 {)erform on shore, did as moK* sailors do at Rio, go 
 and get very dmnk ; I found them after much trouble, 
 buried in mud behind a pothouse, and with great 
 difficulty, not unattended by danger, got them into 
 the skiff. ** Well," says the (urmoui'er to his chum, 
 "well dusty (hie), didn't I say (hie) (hie) that I'd 
 stick to you like a brick (hie) now, aye I and haven't I 
 done it, (hie)" (exhausted). I could hardly repress 
 a 8ii)ile,.the only excuse they had was "their inclination 
 led them astray ;" they were, as a matter of course, 
 " led into irons."" 
 
 Wo had scarcely got cleai* of the harbour of Rio 
 when the cry of "a man overboard" was heard; 
 us quick as thought tlie ship was rounded to, life-buoy 
 let go, sail shortened, a boat lowered; the man had 
 scarcely time to get wet, he was saved. 
 
 Wo anchored in Port William, Falkland Isles, after a 
 tedious and stormy passage; long before we saw land 
 large patches of kelp-weed and flocks of penguins 
 were passed through, and it frequently appeared to 
 
 ' 
 
 t 
 
THE HORN. 
 
 I'>1 
 
 US as if we were running on shurc ; some of the patches 
 were very extensive, the branches as largo as a five- 
 inch hawser, and the leaves of this marine plant 
 (luminaria) spread on the surface. I was in a vessel 
 once which was moored in eleven fathoms by bringing 
 several piurts of this weed through the hawse pipes, 
 and Si^curing them to the windlass. 
 
 Only a small coasting schooner lay in the bay, 
 and it was but yestorday she lost four hands v.'hile 
 coming off to tliis vessel in a s(}uall. The settlement 
 is misery itself, shooting is indeed the only pastime, 
 and there are abundance of rabbits, gecsc, ducks, teal, 
 and snipe in all ps^rts of the island ; \vu fre(piently 
 went out, and had to return early with all we could 
 carry. 
 
 ROUNDING THE JIORN. 
 
 Everything was now prepan.'d to round the much- 
 dreaded Horn, and during a season anything but 
 tempting; all booms and small sails got down, stump 
 to|)- gallant masts rigged, povts caulked in, boats and 
 everything secured for a boisterous passage, which wo 
 anticipated. 
 
 Our anticipations unfortunately proved too correct, 
 we were for one month in bad weather, and eigiit 
 successive gales as (piick as they could follow each 
 other, only having an interval of ''lull" between, 
 merely to gain renewed ettbrt; to describe one of 
 these gales, therefore, will be to describe all, except 
 that we had to go through all ; the reader will but 
 have the trouble of reading one. 
 
 i 
 
I 
 
 i 
 
 162 
 
 // 
 
 A TERttlFIC GALE. 
 
 We had passed an iininensc iceberg calculated to 
 bo about two miles in length, and were compelled 
 to " wear ship " to avoid it, and it made the atmosphere 
 and water around it bitter cold ; it was a grand sight 
 when the sun shone on it at intervals, and we could 
 tell for several hours before seeing it that wo we.« 
 in the vicinity of one, the air and water having partaken 
 of its coldness. 
 
 The gale commenced, and all sail shortened to stoiin 
 stay-sails ; it was my middle watch, *' ail hands " 
 were " turneil up," a sea struck the ship on the quarter, 
 and threw the man at the helm over the wheel ; his arm 
 was broken, but it was a miracle he was not killed. 
 The next sea stove in a main deck port, floating 
 every deck and cabin before a new one could be shipped; 
 the sea now rose as high as the necklace on the 
 main-mast. The wind was still increasing, the baro- 
 meter had fallen to 2»" 69', thermometer at freezing 
 point, forming icicles on the rigging, and rendering 
 it slipper}', harsh, and painful to handle; the quarter- 
 boat was lifted by a sea, the ship was battened down 
 fore and aft, the wind whistled through the rigging, 
 and made the ship tremble again, the oldest sailors 
 say *'they never saw it blow so hard." There was 
 a pinkish hue all over the sky, and the sea was 
 a milk white foam, which lent to the scene a very 
 awful appearance ; another sea washed away the weather 
 gangway, every moment we expected our storm sails 
 would blow to atoms, but they wore new and held 
 on well ; every sea was now breaking over us, and 
 threatpning our destruction, the decks were all afloat. 
 
 I; 
 
/( 
 
 h 
 
 A MAN OVKUIJOAKU. 
 
 153 
 
 and several sick men were washed out of their 
 hannnocks. The heaviest sea struck us ut midnight, 
 staving in the forecastle nettings, starting the fore- 
 channels, springing the fure-niast, and striking the ufKcer 
 of the watch, who was some time insensible. We could 
 now do no more ! The ship and all in her were at 
 the mercy of the gaW, our trust was in Ilim " Who 
 walks upon the waters and rides upon the Htorrn," 
 and who has but to say to the winds and the waves 
 " Peace be unto you, and instantly there will be a calm." 
 It soon moderated, it could not get worse ; and as we 
 were about to prepare to make sail, that cry, wliicli 
 t-trikes the heart with hoiTor and dismay, ran through 
 the ship — 
 
 A MAN OVEKBOAUI). 
 
 " Now the dreadful thiindor rolling, 
 Peal on peal, contending fluHh ; 
 On our heads tierce rain falls pouring, 
 In our eyes blue lightnings tlash. 
 One wide water all anmnd us, 
 AH above us one blaek sky ; 
 Different deaths at once surround us, 
 Hark !— what means that dreadful cry ? " 
 
 "A man overboard 1" The life buoy was lot go (though 
 very imprudently before the man has passed astorii), 
 and a boat lowered ; and it will not be believed, except 
 by those who witnesstd it, that one sea washed the man 
 out of the ship at the fore-chains, the next washed him 
 into the ship at the main-chains ! Tlio boat was saved 
 with much difficulty. J*repanvtions for leaving the 
 gale now commenced, auA jokes began to be passed. 
 
164 
 
 TWO TIIIllDS. 
 
 One day while on the turecastle I uverhcard a strange 
 and '< long-winded yam " by one of our oldest tars, who 
 was considered a character. ''Those," he says, ♦* those 
 were nothing i.) the waves we had when I was coming 
 round here in the old Temerarie, we had a sneezer 
 once that laid her on her extremities, and blew the 
 buttons off my pee jacket ; one moment I was on 
 the lower deck enjoying my du-deen, when all at 
 once I was taken off my legs, and in less than a minute 
 1 was sitting on the nether edge of a cloud." "And 
 how did you come down, Jerry ? " " Why, I waited 
 for a rainbow, and got upon it, greased it well, and 
 slid down." " But was it long enough, Jerry ?" '* No ; 
 so I held fast for a shower, and then came down 
 with the stream." This was a yarn, but one day 
 tlie same old salt made a very witty remark, I was 
 within hearing; a sea broke over the forecas'tle where he 
 was at work and washed him down, which made 
 him growl a little. '* Never mind," says one of his 
 coMtloling messmr/tes, " never mind, old Jerry, Britannia 
 rules the waves." " Hang it," says he, " I wish she'd 
 rule them straight." 
 
 A commodore at Rio told as *' there was nothing 
 certain but one thing in this world," that was " a 
 gale of wind rounding the Horn ; " we found that 
 saying fully verified. 
 
 Just after escaping the troubles of the last gale, 
 ws found it necessary to go on two thirds allowance 
 of provisions, and barely sufficient fuel to cook that 
 small (}uantity; this was hard indeed, constant work 
 in a cold latitude made us all very hungry. 
 
VALI'AIUISO — KXECUTION. 
 
 155 
 
 i 
 
 ^ 
 
 We arrive at Valparaiso, at the foot of Mount 
 Aconcagua, the giant of the Andes, twenty-three thou- 
 sand feet above the level of the sea, after many perils 
 by water, calling on our passage at Valdivia and Con- 
 ception Bays ; the former famous for Fort St. Carlos 
 and neat gardens, the latter for being swarmed with 
 "quebituite huescs" (bone breakers), a black sea-bird 
 which lay in myriads in the harbour, and appear at 
 first sight like shoala 
 
 The first unpleasant sight I was compelled to see 
 at Valparaiso was an execution (a Spanish one), 
 wliile walking through the Almendral, where thou- 
 sands of persons had assembled to witness it — more 
 women than men. The culprit, a fine stout Spaniard, 
 was led out on the Plaza, seated on a wooden stool 
 fixed to the ground by a stake, and to this he was 
 secured ; four soldiers came forward and fired, but only 
 one shot appeared to take effect, and produced but 
 a slight quiver in the prisoner ; five more then pointed 
 their bayonets to the spots they intended to fire at; 
 on firing, ono passed through his temple, another 
 through his heart ; his head dropped, and the rascal 
 who confessed to seven murders was a lifeless corpse. 
 His body was dragged through the town by two mules 
 decorated with flowers and evergreens, and after every 
 one had an opportunity of seeing the body, the head 
 was carried to the spot of the last murder, where it 
 is to be placed on a pole for public gaze. Not a 
 single authority appeared to be present at the execution, 
 not even an officer to command the guard, who were 
 a dusty, reckless set of fellows, in much spirits. These 
 
156 
 
 SPAXISII MAKE. 
 
 executions do not appear to have the ert'ect of example, 
 for the very same night a man was murdered while 
 playing Mont^, at that liorrid part of Valparaiso called 
 « Almandral." 
 
 "Travellers" they say '*see strange things," and 
 so they do. We were taking a stroll around the 
 town, on a very beautiful evening, and the sounds 
 of music attracted our attention ; there Mas a Spanish 
 wake in the house, as extraordiiuuy a scene as I ever 
 witnessed ; an Irish wake, which is absurd enough, 
 has no chance near it; we came to the door and 
 were welcoir.od, and hot liquors passed round. 
 
 I'he child (which was of course dead) was laid out 
 on a table in the centre of the room, decorated in a 
 profuse manner with flowers, papers, and paints ; polkas, 
 Spanish dances, and Zamba Cuecas were danced with 
 much apparent joy round the cor])se, and to conclude 
 the scene, each person present was compelled^ according 
 to custom, to take the child by the heels and swing 
 it three times roun»l their head ; now whether this 
 was a mad freak incited by drink I cannot say, for 
 I never had a chance of attending another "wake," 
 but I nmch regretted not knowing the language 
 sufficiently to hear what their several speeches alluded to. 
 
 Two shocks of earthquake were felt here. It will 
 be rtvollectcd that in 1832 the town was destroyed 
 by an carth(|uake, and every three years slight shocks 
 recur ; the houses are built purposely low, and of light 
 material, to avoid the consequences. 
 
 Papudo Bay next finds us at anchor in its waters, 
 the long and continued line of surf reminds me much 
 
 I 
 
CALLA<>. 
 
 157 
 
 ) 
 
 (on a small scale) of the Madras rollers ; a few small 
 houses, about 1 00 inhabitants, who arc very hospitable, 
 and are delighted to seo a man-of-war in their bay. 
 
 The morning was calm and bcautiflil, not an air 
 of wind disturbed the peaceful bay of Papudo; sail 
 was made, and "we hove in short" to tempt "rude 
 Boreas " to wafl us to Callao. When the sea breeze 
 set in we started; and our young friends, who have 
 been so persevering in their attempts the last two 
 evening's to teach us the steps of the Zamba Cueca 
 and Kefeliosa, were soon loit in the haze. 
 
 On my first walk round Callao, the seaport of Limn, 
 it presented to me one or two dusty and sunburnt 
 irregular streets ; with mad dogs, bare chicken, animals 
 between a monkey and cat (the natives call them 
 "pig-dogs," the most repulsive animals imaginable), 
 howling and chuckling about the gutters. I hope on 
 a future visit to have reasons for giving a more pleasing 
 account of this place. 
 
 We passed San Lorenzo, and anchored in Callao 
 Roads. This extraordinary rock, covered at times with 
 sea lions, and where many a hunt is enjoyed, thus came 
 to light. In 1746 a dreadful earthquake overwhelmed 
 the cities of Lima and Callao, and they disappeared 
 in six fathoms of water ; " breakers " now exist where 
 Callau was, and Lorenzo takes its name from a man 
 who happened to be out fishing at the time, and 
 suddenly found himself (with his son and daughter), 
 on the top of this island rock, uplifted at the same 
 instant that Lima and Callao disappeared ; it is 6 miles 
 long, and 400 feet in height. Ancestors of the Lorenzos 
 
158 
 
 LIMA. 
 
 are chaired and curried round the city in procession, 
 decorated with flowers, &c., on each anniversary of 
 that melancholy yet eventful day of their extraoraii.«,ry 
 preservation. Callao, from my flattering account, did 
 not hold out much inducement for another visit, and 
 it was therefore proposed to go to " Lima." 
 
 The "omnibus" (I hope to be forgiven for calling 
 it by that name) was to start at 2 p.m.; we dressed 
 in clothes which most resembled "dust," pepper and 
 salt coat, white hat, and veil, &c., and got into a "cart" 
 (they call it "'bus") drawn by six mules; "smack" 
 went a powerful whip, and off we went. The ladies 
 lit their cigarettes, the gentlemen shortly after asking the 
 ladies for a light, when they took their cigars to smoke, 
 and presented their new ones in return ; it was preferable 
 being smothered with tobacco smoke, even bad, than 
 dust, which now gathered around us in clouds (the 
 trip from Suez to Cairo by van is far preferable, were 
 it not so long). We came to the remains of Bonavista, 
 a town which was some time since entirely destroyed by 
 an earthquake ; the roads about here ai'e very bad, 
 and the dust in such quantities, that the nostrils of 
 all the mules are cut, some three or four inches, to 
 allow them to respire. The *' half-way-house" stopped 
 us ; you might as well think of passing " Farmer Peck," 
 at Cape of Good Hope, as passing this house, where 
 the best Pisco in the world is to be had; I think it 
 tastes better because you are parched and choked 
 by sun, dust, and stale cigar smoke. 
 
 Crossed the "grove of the banditti," and really 
 one's blood chills at the talcs of horror told of robberies 
 and murders, of frequent occurrence here. 
 
 m 
 
LIMA. 
 
 150 
 
 ( 
 
 We wore now approaching the capital of South America, 
 and the change of scene improved ; treeH, a sort of 
 willow, watered by a rivnlot from the Kimac, formed 
 an avenue to the city gates ; and here it appears 
 strange, to one not accustomed to it, seeing the women 
 riding across the mules — they say they have a very 
 good reason for doing so. 
 
 Horses were now put into the 'bus for the city part of 
 the voyage, and we entered the gates, but I was much 
 disappointed at the miserable appearance of the houHcs ; 
 the cathedrals are fine, but all filagree work, chalk 
 and paint, and tinselled paper, the shops are neat, and 
 some good ; but the most hazardous of all scenes 
 is to risk a bewitching glance from that one eye, 
 which from the careful and graceful folds of the mantilla 
 is allowed to escape and pierce your very heart ; and 
 oh, my young reader, or perchance friend, let me advise 
 you never even to hazard such a glance ; I have often 
 thought if but one eye can do so much mischief, what 
 would both do if allowed their liberty, perhaps it is 
 on this account that one is kept a prisoner. If I were to 
 commence a description of the figures of these fascinating 
 brunettes, I am sure that I should fail in doing them 
 credit, so will leave it to a more skilful pen. There 
 is a portion of the city called the *'Almada," that 
 reminds me very much of the Dyke at Cork ; it is 
 a promenade for the evening, and there may be seen 
 the mantilla to perfection. There are sixty-five churches 
 in Lima, and it is beautiful of a Sunday, early and 
 late, to see these attractive creatures going and coming 
 from their devotions ; they give their mantilla a fiourish 
 
IGO 
 
 THE BALL OF GOLD. 
 
 as they come out of the doorway, as much ns to say, 
 " Ah I did you see." 
 
 The *' Ball of Gold," and the French, are the two 
 principal hotels, and if I have called those at Valparaiso 
 "land-sharks" for their exorbitance, I can only com- 
 promise the matter by calling these '* robbers"; you 
 are stunned ni^rht and day, Sunday particularly, by 
 follows bawling at the top of their voices, at almost 
 every doorway, "quatre-mille-pesos," which means that 
 a lottery is in progress where you may win your 
 100 or even 1000 dollars, or more if you please; or 
 perhaps lose it. 
 
 All Lima assembled to-day to witness a bull fight, 
 it was the tamest affau* imaginable, although fourteen 
 bulls and one horse were killed ; the unfortunate 
 animals were led one by one into the arena perfectly 
 quiet and harmless, until goaded to madness by darts 
 and fireworks, when the animal makes a rush at the 
 Matador, who lanced him, and down fell the beast, 
 when the- cries and applause of the senioritas were 
 deafening, shouting "viva el matador," and throwing 
 dollars and other monies into the ring. Should the 
 animal however evade the lance, and at all appear 
 to have the advantage, he is immediately hamstrung 
 by some barbarous and cruel fellow, and is thus put 
 an end to, fighting on his stumps ; thus fourteen were 
 destroyed. " Bull-baiting," which may be seen in 
 Ireland, is far better sport, and more fair play for 
 the beast. As we passed through the city gates on 
 our return, we bade adieu to Lima, hoping soon to 
 see it again. 
 
PAYTA. 
 
 161 
 
 Off the town of Payta, the seaport of Pura, and the 
 first city built by the famous Pizarro, wo next anchored. 
 This place has every appearance of an arid, barren, sun- 
 burnt spot, and there is not a drop of fresh water within 
 three leagues of the town. There is some difficulty in 
 landing, as the rollers set in all around the bay, and wo 
 had to wait twenty minutes before we could place the 
 boat alongside the mole. The church was first visited; 
 and the greatest object of curiosity seemed to be '^ the 
 Saint," saved from the convent which was burnt to the 
 ground by Lord Anson. The bloody marks are still on 
 the throat, where it is told you ^' she attempted to cut 
 her head off, rather than die by fire." This was the 
 only relic saved from the burning mass, and is much 
 revered. On lifting what I thought to be the Spanish 
 colours o£f the altar, but which was afterwards found to 
 be the Padre's dressing-gown, or preaching-gown, out 
 fell, unfortunately, a bottle of piaco, for which I had to 
 pay two reals. Our guide told us, in conjidencef this 
 was for the Padre, for which I expressed real sorrow I 
 
 Payta consists of five streets, running parallel to each 
 other, and tapering off into a " main top" — which, in this 
 country, is a pot and dancing-house for tars on liberty 
 (at Valparaiso, there are a fore, main, and mizen top) — 
 very few shops, the principal one carried on by a man 
 from " Galway"" ; there is an apology for an hotel, and a 
 worn-out billiard table. These are all the attractions of 
 Payta. 
 
 The island of Santa Clara, or Amortajada (the 
 shrouded corpse), is seen near the Guayaquil river, 
 which latter we would ascend, but the rain and heat ani 
 intolerable, so wo f»o across to the Galapagos. 
 
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CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE GALAPAGOS. 
 
 GALAPAGOS — POST-OFFICE BAT — QUITO — DEPLOBABLE ACCIDENT — 
 
 THE GBAVE — GALLO ISLAND PANAMA BAY — LETTEBS 
 
 PANAMA — PRISON — TABOGA — LONG VOYAGE — VANCOU VEB 
 
 ISLAND — NATIVES — FLATTERY JACK — SALMON — VICTORIA 
 
 FLAT-HEADS — MURDER OF FLATTERY JACK SQUIRREL HUNT — 
 
 RESCUE FROM STARVATION — ANOTHER — A SCHOOLFELLOW 
 
 BURIAL GROUND — PORT DISCOVERY — BEVENGE — A GAME — A 
 TENDEB MESSAGE — SCALPING— CBUISE OF THE CUTTER. 
 
 Post-office Bat, Charles Island, where we are now at 
 anchor, is so called from the fact of the buccaneers 
 under Dampier, «fec., having always placed their letters 
 under a large stone in one part of this bay for transmis- 
 sion. The bay abounds in fish, seal, turtle, and sharks ; 
 in one haul of the seine, there were landed three to four 
 tons of fish, loading the pinnace and whale-boat, half of 
 which had afterwards to be thrown overboard. 
 
 James' Island was found the best in the group 
 for shelter. Terrapin (land turtle) abound on the 
 islands, and make excellent soup. The inhabitants 
 have dwindled from four hundred in number to forty, 
 since the revolution at Guayaquil ; and only one Eng- 
 
QUITO. 
 
 163 
 
 T — 
 
 i 
 
 tTER 
 
 A. 
 
 T 
 
 )V 
 
 — A 
 
 at 
 ers 
 ers 
 is- 
 :s; 
 ur 
 of 
 
 lish resident is to be found here, who has married 
 ti^e Governor's sister, and commands a small trading 
 schooner. 
 
 After traversing the Equator for several days, among 
 the Galapagos, which islands are directly on it, we 
 crossed over to the mainland, and had an opportunity of 
 seeing (at a distance) Quito, which city is famous for 
 standing higher above the level of the sea than any in 
 the world. I think it is 9,000 feet. 
 
 It seldom or ever happens that, throughout a long and 
 arduous cruise in unknown places, and along unexplored 
 shores, that it will conclude without some misfortune to 
 damp and depress the spirits of all those connected with 
 it, and throw a gloom and melancholy around which 
 time and change of scene can alone efface ; and now it 
 was our sad lot to experience this. 
 
 All the boats had been away in this new, interesting, 
 and inviting country, taking many of the officers, here 
 shooting, there fishing, some collecting specimens of 
 geology, botany, and conchology, others reaping richer 
 productions. The day had been fine, but it was now 
 threatening ; clouds and lightning were to be seen sea- 
 ward, and a surf had already risen on tl 3 beach. 
 
 Towards evening, all had assembled on the shores, to 
 return to the ship, and there was difficulty in rushing 
 into the boats without getting wet ; during this, the 
 report of a gun was heard, a rush to one boat followed, 
 all pulled hastily on board, and our feelings may be 
 a little imagined when our most amiable, most beloved, 
 admired, and accomplished shipmate was handed up the 
 side a lifeless corpse ! He was laid out on a grating, his 
 
 m2 
 
 I 
 
]«4 
 
 DEPLORABLE ACCIDENT. 
 
 1; i 
 
 |1 ! 
 
 il I 
 
 l)ody still warm, and the union jack thrown gently over 
 him I 
 
 He was already in the boat, on the point of shoving 
 oflf; the fowling-pieces were laid below; when some 
 one, rushing through the surf to avoid getting wet, and 
 jumping into the boat, placed his foot on the lock of the 
 gun, and it exploded. 
 
 The ball passing through his temple, he fell over the 
 side without a groan 1 Death was instantaneous. His 
 brains were literally strewn about the boat, and over 
 those few in her ; the sea was turned red with his blood. 
 Many near him escaped by a miracle. 
 
 This sudden and deplorable accident struck us all 
 with horror. Thus died a most amiable and beloved 
 messmate, a kind and willing shipmate, a young and 
 intelligent man, who was an ornament to his profession ! 
 Such is life I 
 
 Hov? little did he or any of us imagine that " that day 
 his soul would be required of him ;" and what a lesson 
 it was to us to *' watch," "for we know not at what hour 
 the king of terrors cometh." 
 
 That was a mournful and dismal night. It was my 
 middle watch ; the rain poured down in torrents, the 
 thunder pealed forth its deafening sounds, the lightning 
 flashed its vivid and terrifying streaks all around, lighting 
 up the heavens at short intervals, and displaying to us a 
 scene at once terrible, awful, and truly melancholy I 
 
 His remains were carried next day to their final place 
 of rest, an isolated spot, where we paid the last token of 
 respect to his departed soul ; leaving nothing to mark 
 the spot but a small sheet of copper nailed on a board, 
 

 >i 
 
 )■' 
 
 O 
 
 a 
 
 tr 
 
 ^ 
 
 K 
 
GALLO ISLAND — PANAMA. 
 
 165 
 
 bearing an inscription both short, touching, and simple. 
 We offered up a short prayer foi the departed soul that 
 had not one instant's warning to meet its Maker 1 
 
 It did not require much consideration to depart from 
 a place that had so suddenly robbed us of a talented and 
 much esteemed friend. Passing some small and unim- 
 portant villages we were off Gallo Island, where Pizarro 
 (the Great) first retreated (in America), after an unsuc- 
 cessful attempt against "Quito." Landing at first in 
 ** 1 ecames " Bay, which we have just left, he remained 
 here some time with his troops ; but his associate re- 
 turned to Panama, in hopes of sending a reinforcement 
 to enable them to take possession of the opulent terri- 
 tories, whose existence seemed to be no longer doubtful. 
 He soon after despatched a vessel to bring home Pizarro 
 and his companions from this island, which is infamous 
 for being the most unhea thy in America. 
 
 Anchored in Panama Bay, having gone through many 
 tedious and dreary days, while coming through Choco 
 Bay in light adverse winds, strong adverse currents, 
 heavy rains, thunder and lightning, passing some small 
 and dirty Spanish-Indian towns on the sea coast, with 
 long names, such as Buenaventura, Esmeralda, Escon- 
 dido, &c., &c. The contrast was great in steering 
 through the Pearl Islands in the Bay of Panama; thickly 
 wooded with lofty, dark green trees, buying bold faces of 
 massive purple rock, the sea dashing against them from 
 the broad Pacific, lead you into a scene both charming 
 and enchanting;. 
 
 We had now " letters from home," the first for nine 
 long months; and oh, what changes take place in so short 
 
 > \\ 
 
166 
 
 LETTERS —PRISON. 
 
 !» I) 
 
 a time. Many had wished they had never received 
 them. In our own small community, one loses a father ; 
 two their mothers; one his wife and child; two othv-rs 
 their wives; some their sisters! Others have been 
 robbed of their brightest hopes ; others rejected. Some 
 old messmates promoted, and many dismissed the scmce. 
 We were all prepared to condole with each other, but 
 passed that evening in solitude and misery : many 
 consoled themselves that " no news was good news." 
 
 The once famous City of Panama is almost in ruins ! 
 As there is a day to spare, we travel over it, though 
 hardly able to, from the extreme heat of the sun and the 
 attentive mosquitoes. It being the season of Lent, 
 which is very strictly observed, every one is ** quiet." 
 We met the captain of the port, who had just succeeded 
 to the vacancy caused by a rascal murdering the two 
 sisters of his " Compromiso," and now lies in prison con- 
 demned to be shot. 
 
 The prison, over which is the military hospHal, has 
 about thirty prisoners ; one, who calls himself a " Bvitisher," 
 commanded a small trading vessel, and is condemned 
 for life, for taking away from Pa-^ama (innocently, he 
 says) two men who were sentencea to death. Another 
 prisoner to be shot for stabbing his steward. Many 
 were busy making very neat straw hats and other orna- 
 ments. The cathedral, the only one of te7i remaining, 
 is a fine building, still hanging together, but will soon 
 fall ; the other nine are converted into stables, barracks, 
 a college, &c., and show how this once famed city has 
 declined, both in wealth and population. 
 
 On the ramparts were six brass guns, an iron one, and 
 
1' 
 
 TABOGA. 
 
 167 
 
 
 a mortar, remaining to defend the town, which was at 
 one period strongly fortified— that day has fled I The 
 streets are fihhy — the poor, lame, and diseased innu- 
 merable, and flock round you every time you stop, to 
 solicit " Un real, por el amor do Dios," 
 
 After completing provisions and water at the pretty 
 little island of *- Taboga," of which I shall have much 
 to relate bjz-and-bye, we sailed on a long sea voyage up 
 the coast of North America, towards the Straits of Juan 
 de Fuca, where the celebrated Spanish pilot of that 
 name imagined he had discovered a passage tlirough 
 the continent.* 
 
 The voyage occupied seventy days, during which time 
 we did not even see land ; four of our crew died from 
 the many privations and hardships encountered on that 
 long voyage. The monotony, the dreariness, the scarce- 
 ness of fresh water, with bad provisions, along the burn- 
 ing shores of Western America, were severely felt, and 
 we only found ourselves reviving when the fresh and 
 chilling breezes met us off Vancouver Island. 
 
 Several pieces of broken timber, rugged trees, drift 
 wood, and kelp- weed, told us we were fast approaching 
 the land ; and the joy of all at seeing it was beyond 
 
 • Cook, who passed here some years after its discovery, disbe- 
 lieved in the existence of these straits. To use his own words, he 
 says, " In this lat., 48" N., geographers have placed the pretended 
 Strait of San Juan de Fuca, but nothing of that kind presented 
 itself to our view, nor is it probable that any such thing ever ex- 
 isted." This, I think, is the only instance of that celebrated cir- 
 cumnavigator being in error. 
 
^} 
 
 168 
 
 NATIVKS. 
 
 description. The sea abuuiuled iu whales, lashiug and 
 spouting in every direction. Shoals of porpoises, fol- 
 lowed by birds, are close after our wake, and the land 
 appears covered with a dense forest of pine-trees. The 
 moment tho wiiul fell light, we were visited by a hand- 
 some canoe, having eiglit natives, with a chief, bringing 
 Hsh, bear-skins, squid, &c., all of which they readily 
 bartered for knives, tobacco, an<l paint, &c. I quite 
 gained the friendship of the chief by daubing his &co all 
 over with colours of red^ white, and black, giving him 
 (to us) a most hideous appearance ; but when shown his 
 face in a looking-glass, he was delighted, frantic with 
 joy. They all wished to be painted the same way. His 
 arms and body were covered with "friendly marks," 
 which are lumps of flesh bitten out or cut with sharp 
 shells* by his friends; there were seven or eight such 
 marks on him. We very much feared they would be 
 performing their friendly actions on us, so we prepared 
 to repel them. We found they were very loose and 
 filthy in their manner — no pride at all about them— 
 and wear a plain rug ' vn over their shoulders, which 
 is cast oif altogethei . iitervals. They existed, while 
 alongside, on long strips of squid, which they " bolted," 
 after chewing a short time, without a wink or struggle. 
 Later in the day, a smaller canoe came off with dried 
 salmon and beiTies, rather sour and unpalatable. 
 
 After getting fairly inside the Straits of Juan de 
 Fuca, and anchoring among a fleet of thirty-eight canoes, 
 
 * Kings, xviii. 28. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
FLArrKUY JACK. 
 
 109 
 
 i 
 
 each having two, three, or four salmon on board, we 
 were vibited by a personage calling himself " Flattery 
 Jack," who had been spoken of by former voyagers. 
 He said, " Man' war ship cloosh " (good) ; ** No cock- 
 shittlo man war," that is, they would not break or harm 
 us. This " Flattery Jack " drew a smile from every- 
 one, from some roars ! He had on his body a long red 
 Yankee coat, a very taut pair of trousers, a black satin 
 waistcoat strained in by one well-fingered button and 
 hole, and covering all (and most objectionable things 
 too) was a very much abused " four-and-nine" hat. He 
 gave us a little information about a frigate and steamer 
 in Puget Sound, and while doing so, unfortunately for 
 him, the ** Flattery Jack " arrived, with his retinue. 
 
 This " Jack " was a merry, good-humoured, round- 
 faced little fellow, full of fun, and spoke very good Eng- 
 lish ; his rig was ** made to order," but the trousers were 
 a little short, and the hat had seen its best days. The 
 first Jack brought his squaw with him, the first female 
 we had seen ; they are fairer than the men, but equally 
 careless of person, and loose in dress and manner.* A 
 native here purchases his squaw (or wife) for a blanket 
 or a shirt, and is allowed to have as many as he pleases ; 
 and they lend them one to another in the most friendly 
 and accommodating manner. 
 
 The canoes with the salmon, &c., came alongside, 
 after cheering and shouting while the anchor and cable 
 was let go, and the sails furling. For an old pocket- 
 
 'I 
 
 * It would be impossible to tell the original colour of these 
 people, as they are always smeared with oil and dirt, but I should 
 assume it to be that of a dirty copper kettle. 
 
170 
 
 FLAT-HKADS. 
 
 handkerchief, an old knife, or a few brnss bnttons, you 
 could get a salmon *' all alive," weighing on an average 
 twenty-six pounds. A salmon that you would pay £1 
 for in London, you can get here for a few strips of 
 tobacco or an old razor that would never cut again. 
 Nothing now but salmon boiled, salmon fried, salmon 
 soused, is heard and eaten all day long. If we starved 
 during our long and tiresome sea cruise, we are now cer- 
 tainly making up for it. We passed up to Victoria, the 
 Hudson Bay settlement on Vancouver Island, and lay in 
 a calm and peaceful bay, surrounded by a dense forest, 
 with shrabs and evergreens down to tlie water's edge, at 
 the feet of the lofty mounts Baker and Olympus, per- 
 petually covered with snow. 
 
 Here we had visits from whole families ; and these 
 tribes are called " Flat-heads," from the fact of their 
 heads being squeezed into a conical form when young, 
 in the following manner : — When the child is four or 
 five weeks old a case is made of the bark of a tree in 
 the shape intended, or most preferred, for the head ; in 
 this it is placed ; the child is then put into a cradle made 
 of wood, exactly resembling a butcher-boy's tray, and 
 laced down with strips of bark to prevent its moving or 
 shuffling off this *' night-cap" ; on the head are then 
 placed weights, bags of sand, on the parts which require 
 compression most, to bring it into the required and ap- 
 proved form. This operation is kept up for years, and 
 then the head assumes the enviable form of a " Life 
 Guardsman's hat." It is curious to see the mothers, 
 when the children cry, jig them about in these trays. 
 In many, this compression produces squint, which is con- 
 
( 
 
 I 
 
 JACK MUKDERED. 
 
 171 
 
 8i<leretl beautiful ! And many chiMren are made idiots 
 from the distortion and compression of the brain. 
 When I first saw the Chine e children undergoing the 
 painful and tormenting " operation for small feet,"* and 
 the Javanese infant, having all bauds clapped on its 
 nose to flatten it, immediately when born, I thought it 
 cruel, but this far exceeded anything I Lwe witnessed. 
 The children never look healthy ; and tears are con- 
 stantly running from their eyes, which are painfully 
 tender. 
 
 There is an old saying, of a " dog's tail curling so 
 tight that he cannot put his hind legs to the ground ;*' 
 and of a young lady screwing her hair so tight in papers, 
 that she could not shut her eyes to sleep ; but I can 
 really saj, that I have seen these children's heads so 
 tightly compressed, that a squint is thereby produced. 
 
 One morning we heard, to our surprise, that our good- 
 tempered ** Jack Flattery " was no more ! He had been 
 basely murdeicd for the sake of a blanket, on his passage 
 across the straits, after bartering his other skins. He 
 was attacked and stabbed in the back, in presence of all 
 his family and several wives. The natives are permitted 
 to kill one another for any individual crime (by their 
 chiefs) ; but, should the person miss his aim, and the 
 other escape, the former tribe rush on him and murder 
 him on the spot ; on the contrary, should he kill him, 
 he is considered a great warrior. Such is the state of 
 barbarism around us. 
 
 * The smaller the feet of the Chinese, the flatter the nose of 
 the Javanese, and the more conical the head of the Cowitchins, 
 the more attractive and beautiful the possessor. Truly, " travel- 
 lers see strange things i " 
 
172 
 
 UKSCDK I'UOM WTAHVATION. 
 
 Sqiiirrol-iuiiiting, putHn-shootiiig, us well ns si)ipo 
 and duck, SiC, wei'o our principal aiuusomeuts ; unit ii\ 
 piusHing through tho wood of Vancouver and the anuillcr 
 iHlands, wo couUl not but ho struck at tho K)fty and nuig- 
 nitiecnt cedar, pine, oak, and cyptvss trees, and tlio 
 blossoms of tho yoUow laburnum scenting the air ; every 
 slope and undulation waa a lawn and natural garden, 
 stutldod with tho wild plum, gooseberry, currant, stmw- 
 berry,' and wiUl onion. Long grass ami clover inter- 
 niinglcd the soil, rich in the extreme, and would grow 
 anything aiul everything. 
 
 On ono of these occasions, when wo had been shooting, 
 and venturing farther than perhaps it waa pnident to do, 
 I was one day oveivome with exhaustion, and had nearly 
 been compelled to give up. But bofoiv I mirrate this 
 adventuiv, it will bo proper to iloscribe ono that pre- 
 ceiled, and from which there was very little hope of a 
 ivturn. . 
 
 Dne of the young officers had boon out alone, and his 
 not returning caused great anxiety; for we already 
 knew that the tribes were treacherous, particularly the 
 Sokes, Tsclivllums, and (\)witchins. All, of course, set 
 o\it in search. Boats were sent along the coast, firing 
 great guns, which was also continued on board tho 
 vessel. All day passed, and our st^arch was vain ; but 
 we did not yet despair. Another twenty-four hours was 
 also passed unsuccessfully, and now serious hopes wero 
 entertained for his safety. A party of Indians were sent 
 out, and about nine at night they found him, in a weak 
 and helpless state, under a tree, on the top of a snowy 
 mount. The Indians had given up their search about 
 
 i 
 
 aem 
 
ANOTIIKU. 
 
 173 
 
 tM^lit in the evening ; \>nt the chief or handing nmn said 
 " ho would go a littlo further," and, after pn>ceeiling ft»r 
 a few minutes, he found him. On coming on hoiird, it 
 appeared to us as if lie had ristn from the dead. He 
 said l»o had h)8t his way, and for tiio first ni^l»t and day 
 took refuge in a tree, wheiv many wiUl animals came 
 and " yeUed " at iiim. Not heing able to support lum- 
 solf any longer, and the hejists liaving tleparted, lie came 
 down and hiid on the fern (piite exluiustod, and gave up 
 all his hopes, until iSeon by the Indians, who deserve 
 much praise for their instinct and i^H'^H'verance. The 
 last eighteen houra he lived on a binl that he had shot, 
 eating it raw, but couhl obtain no water. Another hour, 
 and he must have perisheil ; certainly that night, if not 
 found. My misadventure was nearly the same — hardly 
 so serious. I had got into a H\>'ainp among rushes, duck 
 shooting, and in my anxit»ty had got too far, without 
 thinking how 1 was to return. The nnul and water was 
 above nty knees, which rotulered it tiresome to walk, and 
 the rushes far above my lu>ad. When I U^gan to giH 
 tii-ed, 1 then thought of returning, but on looking r»>untl 
 1 could see no opening — nothing but sky over my head, 
 nothing to guide me I After wandering about for some 
 time in seaixjh of an opening, I became <|uite exhausted. 
 The evening was fast closing in. My lips were paivhe<l 
 with thinit, 1 was compelled to keep my feet going in 
 new places, to avoid sinking so far (hat I could not 
 n^cover myself 1 could see no place of ivtreat. I wa.s 
 on the point of laying my shot-belt and gun on one side 
 and giving up all, wIk o I made one moiv effort, and 
 struggled to a more lirm footing, where 1 n*ste«l, and 
 
Il 
 
 i ' 
 
 174 
 
 A SCHOOLFELLOW. 
 
 from thence escaped. Oh ! I shall never forjret the feeling 
 of that moment, when spiritless, and all hope seemed 
 gone, and I was fast sinking. When I looked up, and 
 saw notliing but the bluo sky overhead, and the rushes 
 obstructing everything like a guide, the dreadful thought 
 of starvation flashed across me ; in an instant all I ever 
 knew, all who were near and dear to me, were before 
 mo ; every passage and every circumstance in my life 
 fled before me like a dream. The feelings are almost 
 indescribable. None can know them but those who 
 have experienced them ! 
 
 To-day I was agreeably astonished at receiving a note 
 from a very old and much-esteemed schoolfellow, who 
 was then about seventy miles distant from me. He says, 
 " I send this scratch in the boat that takes you unfor- 
 tunate fellows your * gi'ub ' (sheep and potatoes). I 
 intended at first coming down, but having been so long 
 in harbo.ur, am afraid to undertake so long and dangerous 
 a sea voyage. Moreover, having recently escaped the 
 perils by land and sea of a two months' cruise through 
 the Oregon, I do not like tempting a merciful Provi- 
 dence too much." He says, *' I have turned into a com- 
 plete savage, and have not an idea above a blanket.'* 
 He also adds, '* You should have been at ' our races ' 
 yesterday ; everything complete, even to the Punch and 
 Judy show ;" and he ends with saying, ** Give my love to 
 that sweet girl at Victoria :" and then a P.S., in which, 
 in a truly Irish way, he says, " I have a picture of your 
 ship in a gale of wind, and it is the principal ornament 
 in my cabin. I've just got room for another in a cor- 
 responding fii*st chop rosewood frame. Another would 
 look so well ! " 
 
 ■HBHM 
 
QRAVES. 
 
 175 
 
 There is a small island at the entrance of Victoria 
 Harbour, on which all the surrounding tribes bury their 
 dead in this manner : — When a man dies, he is taken to 
 this island, with his canoe and all belonging to him. The 
 canoe is hauled up on the island, the body laid in it, and 
 all hir> goods and chattels, such as his musket, salmon 
 spear, bow and arrows, fishing lines, pots, kettles, and 
 even the square wooden bowl he drank out of, are laid 
 by his side, covered over with mats, pieces of timber, 
 and large stones. Several canoes, with their late owners, 
 were mouldering away on this island. Several we saw, 
 also, on the forked branches of trees, at almost every 
 bend of the river.* 
 
 A deformity is never seen, the parents destroy them the 
 moment of birth, but we frequently meet natives with 
 several joints of their fingers gone ; on inquiring, it was 
 ascertained that it is customary to express grief for the 
 death of a relative by some corporeal suffering, and that 
 the usual mode was to lose two or more joints of each 
 finger ! 
 
 We had now passed round the straits, having anchored 
 in those beautiful harbours, Port Discovery, Dungeness, 
 and Port Townshend, either capable of holding the 
 British fleet, with some of less capabilities on Vancouver 
 Island, Esquimault, Port Albert, Victoria, San Juan, 
 Becher Bay, Soke Inlet, and now unchor where first 
 we stayed on entering the straits. Many canoes again 
 
 * The natives consider it an ill omen ever to mention the names 
 of those departed, and never do so; they will never touch anything 
 belonging to the dead, and they fancy the spirit departs into 
 animals, such as deer, bears, &c. 
 
170 
 
 A TENDKll MESSAGE. 
 
 K 
 
 come alongside, and we find Flattery Jack, or King 
 George's tribe (who was murdered), preparing to go to 
 war with the " Tsclallums," to avenge the death of their 
 chief. They say " they intend stealing on them during 
 the night, first shooting them and then cutting their 
 heads off.'* . . . They must use some strange stratagem 
 to efiect this, as the Tsclallums exceed them far in 
 numbers. In a bay, near this anchorage, the seine 
 was hauled, find as one of the men obser^'ed, it was a 
 " miraculous draft." Turbot, cod, and soles in abun- 
 dance ; it was not the season for herrings, nor place for 
 salmon. 
 
 There was but one game that I saw the natives amuse 
 themselves with, but they are very fond of gambling. 
 As I was passing in a great hurry at the moment, I 
 cannot tell the process, but it is with seven pieces of 
 stick and two deer's teeth. I was told it was their only 
 game of amusement or pastime ; they play at " pitch 
 and toss" also, for blankets, furs, and even their wives, 
 merely at the chance of turning up one side or the 
 other— head or tail. 
 
 1 > 
 
 We were about to leave the straits, but I had one 
 more duty to perform for an old schoolfellow ; and it 
 will be remembered, that he particularly requested in 
 his note that I would, the first opportunity, " give his 
 love to that sweet creature at Victoria." Now, this was 
 a very pleasing duty, I had no doubt, but at the same 
 time one that I was not prepared for, nor did I know to 
 whom I was to deliver so affecting and fender a message. 
 
 HWiii 
 
 mmmmmm 
 
MARY. 
 
 177 
 
 However, do it I must, as I had promised. We were 
 at anchor off the very place. I devoted a forenoon to this 
 duty. I dressed in my best (wliich was not at any 
 time very attractive), and I polished up my hair, teeth, 
 and boots, with a little more than usual care, for, it must 
 1)6 added, I intended to put in one word for my school- 
 fellow, and two for myself, when — withering under the 
 gaze of this lovely object — I set out with the very best 
 possible intentions, not knowing, however, the exact 
 residence. I went to the rendezvous, where I knew I 
 should meet some pers'^n who spoke English. I was 
 right. I commenced gently, to prevent suspicion, re- 
 marking on the weather first, which mostly all people 
 do on meeting, then the briskness of trade (of which I 
 knew very little), and finally, coming to *he point, 
 asking if he knew where the object of ny search 
 reside 1 ? He quickly answered in the affirmative, and 
 at the same time pointed to the house. How I should 
 know her? was my next question, how she "rigged," 
 and her style ? (so that I may recogni.se her if I passed 
 her) with many other very inquisitive and impertinent 
 inquiries. A final query finished the conversation, and 
 nearly finished me, for, to my utter amazement, he 
 said, "She is my sister." I thought I would have 
 shrunk into my boots ; my feelings may be imagined, 
 but impossible to describe. I hurried from the scene, 
 declaring, within myself, never again to enter that 
 stockade. Constant visions of the big brother were 
 before me. ''^'^es, bullets, scalps, all passed within 
 my imagined gaze, and it was some time before I was 
 able to shake off the surprise that I at that moment felt. 
 
 N 
 
 '/I 
 
 i i 
 
I 
 
 178 
 
 SCALPING 
 
 I broke my word I A few days afterwards found me in 
 the presence of her for whom I had so nearly suffered 
 (in mind if not in body). All those, however, were more 
 than repaid by one glance from the light blue eyes of 
 Mary, who dresses also in light blue, dances the polka, 
 is not at all vain, and far from being proud, as I on one 
 occasion found her very dexterously passing a warm flat- 
 iron over a neat and well-bleached chemisette. A few 
 pleasant evenings were passed at that house, and I 
 must acknowledge forgetting all about my schoolfellow's 
 kind and tender message ! 
 
 Before finally saying adieu to the straits, in which we 
 have passed a most glorious three months, I must con- 
 clude with an incident that occurred which must have 
 astonished the numbers of natives wiio had come along- 
 side to say good-bye before our final departure. We 
 were all assembled in the gangways, ports, nettings, 
 and chains, during the dinner-hour, which was generally 
 appropriated for bartering. Sail made, and ready to 
 start the moment a breeze sprung up, we were chatting, 
 joking, and exchanging goods with the natives. Two 
 of ours, who were in the gangway port, attracted most 
 attention, as their goods were "in the market" (beads 
 and fish-hooks). During their eagerness to obtain an 
 article they had purchased, one slipped his foot, and 
 accidentally passing his arm across the other's head, to 
 save himself, knocked his cap off into the canoe — his xvig 
 was in it ! Such a roar, such a scream, never was 
 heard; they all concluded he was *' scalped"; and it was 
 some time before they were composed, and settled along- 
 side again, when they saw the ** scalp" replaced. They 
 
 msmssii£immi,tiaiiSn 
 
 mm 
 
CRUISE OF THE CUTTER. 
 
 179 
 
 understand *' scalping," and it is practised at no great 
 distance from them ; but never having seen a wig, con- 
 cluded we were as expert as themselves ; it caused much 
 amusement and astonishment. This was our finale; and 
 having sailed for San Francisco, arrived safe, passing 
 over the bar with a slashing breeze, without dipping our 
 " quarter-boats in the water," as we were led to suppose 
 we should do. Two vessels of war were lying here, 
 Russian and American. 
 
 We 
 
 tings, 
 rally 
 y to 
 ting, 
 Two 
 most 
 eads 
 
 [,d, to 
 xvig 
 was 
 was 
 
 |ong- 
 'hey 
 
 "the cruise of the cutter." 
 
 During the period that the ship remained in the 
 straits of Juan de Fuca, a boat expedition started for the 
 Oregon ccst, • nd as many interesting occurrences took 
 place during this cruise, I must devote a leaf or two to 
 them. 
 
 The day the boats started was beautiful — beautiful 
 almost beyond description; no fog clouded the atmo- 
 sphere ; no winds agitated this lovely branch of the 
 Pacific ; the sun peeped occasionally between small 
 patches of cloud, lending a shade here and there, both to 
 the waters and to the rich foliage, quite charming. 
 
 The ship lay still and motionless; a more than usual 
 number of canoes visited from various parts; in one, 
 the largest, measuring forty-nine feet seven inches, could 
 be seen a **Taihe*' (chief) of Neah bartering a quantity 
 of shells for a Galium female, who was no doubt to be- 
 come one of his wives (he had already two with him) ; 
 in another, a mother, carefully wandering over her 
 children's heads, pulling many very objectionable things 
 out of them, an amusement they delight in when they 
 
 N 2 
 
I 
 
 180 
 
 THE CU'lTER. 
 
 have nothing else to occupy their time. While cahnly 
 gazing on such unintcllectual scenes, the shrill pipe and 
 hoarse cry of the boatswain was suddenly heard, 
 
 " Away all boats' crews." 
 
 I was walking the deck in the zealous pcrformnnco 
 of my forenoon watch, when the captain came up, to 
 whom I lifted my cap : ** Young fellow," he said, ** get 
 ready to go away ; I intend giving you a bit of a twist 
 this tini?." 
 
 At eleven a.m., precisely, five boats started, having 
 previously ascertained that provisions and corresponding 
 liquids were in abundance for twice that period, con- 
 sisting of salmon, potatoes, and mutton, &c. 
 
 We were off! but could not for some time imagine 
 where the two fine legs of mutton, which were hanging 
 in our mizen rigging, had come from, until one more 
 shrew d than the rest informed us that it was our poor 
 " old pet, Tom," who had been mercilessly slain! "Tom" 
 had got so fat that he "had to be killed to save his 
 life." 
 
 ^* Tom" had been with us since leaving England ; he 
 had become quite a pet (sailors always have some pet or 
 other on board ship), and followed the men about the 
 deck like a dog. " Tom" had been taught to smoke a 
 pipe, to drink grog, to chew tobacco, to eat shavings 
 and old quids of tobacco (an economical sheep), and 
 many a dull hour during an evening did Tom pass away 
 for his shipmates. He had now grown so fat that he 
 could with difficulty breathe ; the butcher's knife put an 
 
 mm 
 
THE CUTTEU. 
 
 181 
 
 011(1 to *'Tom," and his sorrowing shipmates had to 
 deplore the loss of their amusing pet. 
 
 In the liuriy and excitement we had scarcely dreamed 
 of* its being Sunday, until, suddenly roundmg an island, 
 a native in one of the fishing canoes was heard singing, 
 "Hias makooke saouche" (plenty salmon, buy), when 
 one of our witty marines observed, that it resembled 
 the ninety-eighth Psalm ; the truth of its being Sunday 
 only then flashed across us. 
 
 At noon, with a fair wind, the boats were passing 
 along the Oregon coast, thickly covered with wood, at 
 the foot of the rocky mountains, which were perpetually 
 capped with snow ; the wind, however, soon failed, and 
 the paddles (which had long since superseded oars) were 
 set to work. With these the men could sing and keep 
 time to their old tune, 
 
 "I've got a sixpence, a jolly, jolly, sixpence." 
 
 ; he 
 
 let or 
 
 the 
 
 ^ke a 
 
 fings 
 
 and 
 
 iway 
 
 he 
 
 an 
 
 It was very late before the boats reached the first place 
 of rendezvous, and here we bivouacked for the night, in a 
 small stony bay, the water very shallow. The rain 
 awnings were spread, and the coppers lighted ; and as 
 the vivid sparks arose, they reminded me of those true, 
 yet spiritless lines, 
 
 " As the sparks fly upwards to the sky, 
 So man is bom to misery!" 
 
 From the shallow and rocky state of the bay the boats 
 could not land, and they were anchored off for the night 
 in deep water. 
 
182 
 
 THE CUTTER. 
 
 Morning dawned, and, if possible, more beautiful 
 than yesterday, which enabled us to beach the boats, and 
 take a refreshing plunge in the cool waters of the straits. 
 An early breakfast was finished, and dinner already 
 under weigh, although only eight o'clock. The cook of 
 the party was far above his elbows in flour and water, 
 and was relating rather an improbable **yam," of his 
 having " seen weovils fly out from the inside of a pud- 
 ding after it had been a whole forenoon boiling in the 
 coppers." '* Yes," he says, " my word, when I broke the 
 * duff,' out flew the weovils." 
 
 About noon tho " Galium"" canoes began to surround 
 us, and when we reminded them of their murdering 
 King George (Flattery Jack) for the sake of a blanket, 
 they crossed themselves, and pointing to the sun, ex- 
 claimed, " Euklea," looking, at the same time, remark- 
 ably innocent, wishing to lead us to suppose they would 
 not have done it for worlds. 
 
 The morning following had scarcely dawned before 
 the wild caw of the crow and the gurgling notes of the 
 raven announced it was time to rise; a very short 
 interval elapsed before all hands were at work, some 
 preparing breakfast, others gathering fire-wood and 
 water for the coming day, while a few were performing 
 their ablutions at some icy stream which trickled from 
 the lofty Olympus, filtered by the crowded pines, 
 through which it rushes before reaching the sea. 
 
 During this day's progress we were overtaken by a 
 dense fog, such a fog as comes tumbling on you like a 
 wall, completely burying you in a mass of vapour. We 
 
 !!MMBMi 
 
 ammrngggggggmmm 
 
ruE currEit 
 
 lft3 
 
 cnduavouretl to reach an anchorage, but were compelled 
 at last to drop anclior in a miserably shallow bay, afford- 
 ing no shelter, the rocks numerous, and the swell setting 
 in obliged us to anchor some distance from the shore, 
 and thus had we to pass a night of misery and anxiety. 
 Rest I cannot call it, for, every moment expect- 
 ing to feel our boats bump on the rocks, which every- 
 where surrounded us, a good look out had to be kept 
 for these, as well as to avoid a surprise from the native 
 Callums, who we had now known to be treacheroua 
 Rain poured on us, but as the day broke, we perceived 
 our ship in the offing, which had already made out our 
 flotilla, but received orders to " proceed." 
 
 This night, however, we were fortunate in having a 
 small vessel to sleep on board, and really enjoyed a 
 night's slumber on a "soft plank," a luxury we had 
 not for four nights ; our dreams were but once dis- 
 turbed, by one of our own party (an Irish boy, of course), 
 who, sleeping in the same apartment, and frequently in 
 the habit of walking during the hours he should have 
 been snoring ?n his two yards of canvas, he has been 
 seen more than once performing most extraordinary and 
 really melancholy antics across the spirit-room hatch, 
 rolling himself up in his blanket, and cruising to some 
 outK)f-the-way place, with other strange performances. 
 At this time, during a moment of somnambulism, he swept 
 the table of all on it, among which was a large jug of 
 water, placed there expressly, by the thoughtfujness of 
 the steward, for **cooling coppers." This capsized all over 
 us, drenching some, frightening others, who, at least. 
 
184 
 
 THE CUTTER. 
 
 thought the vessel was going down in deep water. Mins 
 Homer (the actress) was absent, or the scene would have 
 been complete. 
 
 After seven hours of refreshing sleep (barring the cold 
 water), we were off again on our interesting cruise. The 
 first part of the day was screened by a dense fog, which 
 compelled us to put into a small sandy bay, and there 
 amuse ourselves until it cleared. 
 
 Before noon, an hour was passed most loyally in 
 dressing our small fleet in all their gay colours, in 
 honour of the Royal Consort, Prince Albert's birthday ; 
 and our little flotilla, surrounded by a dense fog in a 
 snug bay, formed a scene quite novel and pleasing; 
 added to which were the blazing coppers, and the jolly 
 tars busily preparing their noon-day meal of mountains 
 of salmon, loads of spuds, and heaps of '' duff." 
 
 After this, at noon-day, innocently yet loyally cele- 
 brating the nativity of his Royal Highness, we all 
 rambled into the dense forest, which was thickly 
 studded with trees and jungle, down to the water's edge. 
 
 The sun partly dissipated the fog, and again our 
 boats started for false Dungeness, and did not arrive 
 there till very late. 
 
 This evening terminated our week's exploring; all 
 were sorry it was about to conclude, for we had wished 
 it to continue another week, aye, a month. We were 
 kept in constant good humo ir by the number of meals 
 we had daily (from five to seven); no sooner had one 
 finished than it was time to commence the next. We 
 were no slaves to time, for when hungry, we fed ; v/hen 
 thirsty, drank; when tired, turned in; and when re- 
 
THE CUTTEU. 
 
 185 
 
 freshed, rose. What more could be desired ? The trip 
 was finislicd next day by crossing the straits to Victoria. 
 Provisions \fere had in abundance from the natives — 
 salmon, potatoes, and blackberries; and after all the 
 buttons had been bartered from our jackets, and our 
 shirts and pocket handkerchiefs were getting scarce, 
 then we learned to polish Brazilian dumps with brick- 
 dust, and by christening them "Pillison dollars,"* 
 obtained from the natives sufficient provisions for onu 
 dollar to last the boat's crew a week I 
 
 * Pillison was the chief Hudson Bay trader ; everything bear- 
 ing his name was good. 
 
 all 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 SAN FUA.NCISCO — MOKMONS — WATERINa-PLACK — A DBSKKTKn — 
 AMUSING ISALI. — IIAUBAIIOUS MURDER — MONTERREY — CEDROS 
 ISLAND — SAN DIEQO — GRAVES — AN OhU IBIEN'J — MAGDALENA 
 BAY. 
 
 TitE towu, consisting of about thirty houses, including 
 tents, enclosed in stockades, lay on a level j)lain of a 
 dark brown sandy appearance, at the foot of a gentle 
 slope, inhabited by Americans and Mormons. The 
 latter are a sect whose religion and customs are some- 
 what strange and remarkable. They are at liberty to 
 have two spiritual wives and one temporal, and, if the 
 " spirit should so lead," a man may take another's wife 
 unto himself. All dreams, by either sex, are to be 
 realised, upon pain of dismissal should they fail to 
 do so. 
 
 Here we first learned that Mexico had surrendered to 
 American forces, after killing 5,000 Spaniards; that 
 war had been declared some time; and that the place we 
 were now at acknowledged the "stars and stripes," 
 making all the Spanish community prisoners. 
 
 Anchored the ship in three athoms, nmddy ground ; 
 
 nMMMll 
 
SAUSALITO. 
 
 187 
 
 red to 
 that 
 kce we 
 ipes," 
 
 ^und ; 
 
 and I mention this to show what a transition took place 
 some short period afterwards. 
 
 Afterwards went across to Sausalito, to complete with 
 water, and while doing so our guns were not idle ; quail, 
 deer, rabbits, and partridges, all fell before them. The 
 plumage of the Californian crested quail Is exquisite. 
 
 In this retired and secluded watering-place lives a 
 farmer, who can boast of having a daughter the most 
 beautiful girl in San Francisco Bay. Her mother 
 Spanish, her father English. She was eiigaged to he 
 married to a Mexican merchant, but unfortunately he 
 had been icilled in the late affray with the Americans, 
 and she was now mourning, her hair brought close 
 over the forehead. In the same dwelling liyed a man, 
 enjoying all the privileges and clime of a Spaniard, who 
 had actually been a deserter from a vessel of war, in 
 which one of the officers had been his shipmate some few 
 years since, and who recognised him immediately, but 
 permitted him still to enjoy his Spanish retreat. 
 
 We were on the eve of starting, when the captains of 
 a few whale ships in the port informed us that it was 
 their intention ** to give the Britishers a ball " on board 
 the largest whaler, in retmrn for many services we had 
 rendered them. Not to have accepted it would have 
 been rude — poor pride ; and having assented, we received 
 formal invitations ; and as this was one of the most ori- 
 ginal and amusing entertainments I ever beheld, an 
 attempt at a description of it must find a place here. 
 
 The invitations were issued and delivered to the 
 " Britishers '* by a rather weather-beaten third or fourth 
 mate, who was a little confused on delivery (and could 
 
188 
 
 AMUSING BALL. 
 
 not have known what they contained). The epistle 
 (which was very precisely written on half a sheet of 
 letter paper, when folded, had the corner turned down 
 and the wafer stamped with a button) ran thus : — 
 
 *' The committee of management of the U. S. whale 
 ships request the company of the steerage officers to an 
 entertainment, at nine P.M. this evening." 
 
 At noon, in honour of the occasion, the " senior whale 
 ship " displayed colours of all nations at her masthead, 
 and fired reduced charges from two small rusty-looking 
 guns. At this moment the aforesaid third or fourth 
 mate issued from his vessel, with the despatches carefully 
 wrapped in a sheet of brown paper, and conveyed in a 
 two-oared boat, painted a light pea-green, borrowed 
 from the shore for this express purpose. 
 
 In the evening we all assembled at rather a fashion- 
 able hour, ten p.m., and were agreeably surprised to find 
 so many American, Spanish, and Sandwich Island 
 females, thinly clad in white and other coloured mus- 
 lins, dancing away with Spanish and Russian officers at 
 a great rate. The first dance was a quadrille (I hope I 
 shall be excused for entering into detail, but really all 
 was so truly original, it would be a pity to pass it over — 
 it would be a good thing lost). The master of the cere- 
 monies (of course) the chief officer of the ship. The fun 
 commenced 1 
 
 I made a few acquaintances, stood on no ceremony, 
 and did not wait for an introduction. A delicate, pale- 
 faced American youth came up to me, and says, " I'm 
 Montressor I my governor is chief here. I gues;* you'll 
 like to see our ship. Calculate you'll find her a flamer. 
 
AMUSING BALL. 
 
 189 
 
 I'm 
 ou'U 
 mer, 
 
 and no flies. She can go twelve and six on a bowline, 
 and before the wind, she is .* Come on board to- 
 morrow — ask for Mont lessor ; I'm always in the ^abin 
 when the governor's ashore." The moment I could get 
 him to stop, I assured him it would afford me much plea- 
 sure to see so fine a specimen of American architecture ! 
 The master of the ceremonies (whose name I forget) was 
 very attentive, and repeatedly asked if I wished a part- 
 ner, to which 1 always assented. ** Come with me," he 
 says ; and, taking me face to face to a very pretty Ame- 
 rican, says to her, " Here, dance with this chap. This 
 jiirl will dance with you," turning to me. I asked if I 
 might liope to have the felicity, &c. After hesitating 
 some time, my fair charge drawled out, " What ?" I re- 
 peated, if she would dance with me it would make me 
 the happiest of beings. She then appeared to catch the 
 word ** dance," and immediately replied, " Yes, sir." I 
 led my bashful fair one to the quadrille, and demanded 
 of a young curly-headed fellow, Avith a very pretty girl for 
 a partner, if he had a via-a-vis. " Yes, sir," says he, 
 ** here she is," taking up his partner's hand. I smiled ; 
 I could not help it ; and my charge did the same. I 
 fancied it all very strange. All my flowery language 
 was thrown entirely away, and I now began to talk 
 " plain" The quadrille formed. On my right was a tall, 
 tliin messmate of mine, enjoying the company of an ex- 
 ceedingly fat American-Indian female, who was gaudily 
 dressed in a glazed furniture cotton, and a bright orange 
 kerchief around her nut-brown neck. Her slippers 
 were far gone (at the heels), and at every step went flip- 
 flop. I must not be personal with my worthy and philo- 
 * It would be impossible to mention this expression. 
 
1 
 
 n 
 
 ! I 
 
 190 
 
 AMUSING BALL. 
 
 sophic messmate; but he and his partner were the 
 happy gaze of the room, and caused many a smile. 
 
 Dancing commenced ; music by three fiddlers and a 
 nigger performer on the tambourine. No regard was 
 paid to figures, and very little to steps. Away we went, 
 every one as they thought best ; some ballancer, others 
 chains-dea-dames, until the JlnaUy when the wearer of 
 the white rosette called aloud for " order," when we 
 instantly obeyed, and were in our places alongside our 
 fair partners. The tune was " Yankee Doodle," but he 
 exclaimed, " Give us something lively — * Life let us 
 cherish.' " " Now, sirs," says he, " do what I tell you." 
 ** Now, ladies, stand still." " Gents, go round hand in 
 hand." " Chase cross-trees." '* Go where you like." 
 " Lead ladies to their seats." " Kiss hands." Thus 
 ended the most amusing, the most noisy quadrille, I ever 
 figured in. The latter, "kiss hands," was the most 
 pleasant figure for some ; but others less fortunate 
 shammed bashful, and "couldn't do such a thing for 
 the world." 
 
 Mrs. Pele was above all others a character ; she was a 
 stout, fair-faced American (truly Yankee), wearing a 
 curious sort of a nightcap, and two false grey curls dang- 
 ling at each side of her face. " Sire," says she to one of 
 ours, as he was gazing round the room, as she thought, 
 for a partner, " Sire, 'ave you seen my gals ? " " Lucy," 
 she continued, " here's Jippers." The iatroduction was 
 over ; Jippers led Lucy to a cotillon, 
 
 I succeeded, after a great deal of persuasion, to gain 
 Mrs. P.'s hand at a quadrille, during which she gave a 
 long account of her " domestic happiness," taking care 
 
 mm 
 
AMUSING BALL. 
 
 191 
 
 to frequently introduce the amiability and virtues of 
 '* her gals," and to whom she played the piano hours 
 before breakfast. 
 
 Sraily and his wife were a couple I cannot pass over. 
 She was dressed like a doll, and figured the Zamha 
 Cueca to perfection. He an Englishman, a prisoner 
 on parole, for taking part in the Mexican affair. Every 
 five minutes or oftener he would exclaim, at the very 
 top of his voice, "O my leg I" and, limping as if some 
 one had stepped on a favourite corn, out he'd go, and 
 take a *' modest quencher." 
 
 Supper was announced. The table (or whatever it 
 was) was laid between the fore and main masts, covered 
 with a lower studdingsail for a table-cloth, and which 
 contrasted well with the loads of pork and molasses, 
 gin and coffee, under which it groaned. The ladies were 
 seated. Mrs. P. looking out sharp for " her gals," 
 divided here and there by a " gent." It fell as usual to 
 my unfortunate lot to have a " Spanish partner," to 
 whom I could say nothing ; but I requested an appa- 
 rently respectable-looking chap (who was sharing more, 
 perhaps, than an equal portion of my fair partner's 
 glances) to ask her in Spanish if 1 could assist her to 
 anything on the table. ** Oh," says he, " she'll look 
 out for herself, and when she has eaten enough she'll 
 stop." The ladies retired, and the gents fed. 
 
 I was fortunate in getting alongside my early pale- 
 faced acquaintance, who amused me with some very 
 original yarns, and the laughing produced assisted much 
 the digestive organs in the attack on the pork and gin. 
 lie says, after we had touched glasses and nobbed, ** You 
 
 
 
192 
 
 AMUSING BALL. 
 
 must know I am the most drunkenest fellow in the * Ohio,' 
 but I never gets found out like the other chaps, and I'll 
 tell you how I do it ; when I comes up the side I shakes 
 myself and looks around, and I don't go up to the com- 
 manding officer and report myself, but I waits till he 
 coTnea to me. I shakes myself again ; and when he 
 turns his back to go aft, I says, * Come on board, sir,' and 
 am down the ladder like slick." 
 
 The " gents " fed off huge joints of pork, smeared 
 with molasses, and washed down with gin or coffee. The 
 dancing again became exciting, and the people excited — 
 and Spanish dances were intercepted by jigs and romps, 
 by the gents only I 
 
 There were some pretty faces present, but one (as 
 is always the case) which attracted most attention. 
 " Mary " was the belle ; that simple and yet sweetest of 
 names, "Mary." Her face was pale, and innocence 
 could* be traced in every expression of her countenance ; 
 but she could give a glance with her '^ light blue eyes " 
 that ran through you in an instant. She was dressed in 
 a " clear muslin " (I think the girls call it), and there 
 were no artificial means used to render the figure perfect. 
 Her foot, which was neat and small, was encased in a 
 primrose sandal, which did almost as much t edit to the 
 maker as the wearer. On a head of glossy chestnuf 
 Iiair, was entwined a wreath of snowdrops, which, during 
 one part of the dance (I think, " go where you please ") 
 was disarranged, and it fell to my lot to adjust it to " my 
 own taste," which she flattered me by saying " coincided 
 exactly with hers." 
 
 My next partner was an interesting young girl — a 
 
<Ohio,' 
 and I'll 
 shakes 
 le com- 
 } till he 
 hen he 
 sir,' and 
 
 smeared 
 ie. The 
 ccited — 
 1 romps, 
 
 one (as 
 ttention. 
 eetest of 
 inocence 
 enance ; 
 e eyes" 
 •essed in 
 d there 
 perfect. 
 ;ed in a 
 t to the 
 hestnuf, 
 , during 
 lease ") 
 to " my 
 incided 
 
 girl — a 
 
 AMUSING BALL. 
 
 193 
 
 mother 1 — who nursed a fat, noisy, drivelling boy ; and 
 having prevailed on her to allow one of my good-tem- 
 pered and careful messmates to hold the young thing 
 while she danced, off we went, but at the fourth figure 
 the wretch screamed (my impatient friend must have 
 pinched it), and I lost my partner. Our conversation 
 was exceedingly interesting — principally on " teething ;" 
 and when I told her I did not pity her, as I had five, 
 ** Well," says she, " I do pity your missis, for I have but 
 three." ** All boys," says I ; " what a happy dispen- 
 sation ! " 
 
 After this dance the ladies retired to the captain's 
 cabin, to partake of negus and cake ; the remainder had 
 a song, " Sweet Home," ** River Ohio," &c. ; but the girls 
 remaining too long, we began to get impatient, when one, 
 more gallant than the rest, rushed below, and asked 
 *' Where the ladies were ? " " They're a feedii', sire," says 
 Mrs. P. ; " and when they've a-done grubbin* they'll come 
 up." They soon again appeared, one after another, as 
 they came into the world, and the dancing became more 
 and more enlivening. Waltzing was now carried on in 
 style. Around the fiddlers, who were seated on the car- 
 penter's tool-chest, at the foot of the post supporting the 
 awning, the couples glided along swiftly and gracefully, 
 until down came heavily the "fat Spanish female." 
 Not a turn was taken after this. No one went to the 
 rescue. All were convulsed, until exhausted, when some 
 exclaimed, " No bones broken," and off they went again. 
 
 Daylight now peeped in on our enjoyments, and, after 
 Kjincde, it was broad daylight. 
 
 1 retired to the supper-room, where I found my 
 
 o 
 
 I 
 
194 
 
 BARBAROUS MURDER. 
 
 
 -11 
 
 IN 
 
 pale friend, quite illustrating all he had told me, stretched 
 out on the middle of the supper table, ciying out, " Rise 
 tacks and sheets I" He fancied he was putting the ship 
 about. — " Let go the to' gallant bowlines — hie — .all 
 right ! " I saw no more of him. We had not sailed many 
 days from here before we heard that this unfortunate 
 young officer had been barbarously murdered by his boat's 
 crew, and the body thrown overboard, on their passage 
 up the Sacramento River, where the crew deserted. 
 
 Boats were constantly on the move, taking the wearied 
 parties on shore ; not a ripple was on the water ; and at the 
 exact hour of eight I landed the last boat-load safely, 
 singing, *' We won't go home till morning ! " and having 
 refused a pressing invitation from a Yankee, " half seas 
 over," " to partake of a quencher to confirm our amalga- 
 mation, and strengthen the unity of friendship that 
 existed," I had only time to perform a hurried toilet 
 and keep the forenoon watch ! 
 
 On this " entertainment " no remark is necessary. It 
 was given with the most friendly and hospitable inten- 
 tions, and the very fact of our not separating until 
 eight in the morning is a convincing proof of our having 
 enjoyed ourselves much I 
 
 •* Monterrey " was a spot we had looked forward to 
 visiting from before leaving England. We had constant 
 visions of those evanescent beings, who come off in 
 white satin garments to welcome you to their 
 shores from that ** lovely of loving places." On your 
 arrival on shore you were led to their homes to partake 
 of coffee, sweetened only by a glance. When they 
 untied your mocassins, and laid warm water at your 
 
MONTERRKY. 
 
 195 
 
 Ird to 
 
 istant 
 
 )ff in 
 
 their 
 
 your 
 
 Itrtake 
 
 they 
 
 your 
 
 feet, such were our dreams — alas 1 they were only dreams, 
 not to be realized, for we found we had been drifted 
 some miles to the southward of the port, and it would 
 have cost too much time to return. We could, however, 
 see an American frigate whose happy crew were enjoy- 
 ing no doubt these dreams of ours. 
 
 We arrived and anchored at Cedros Island, the most 
 desolate, barren block of volcanic eruption imaginable, 
 passing the small and unimportant towns of San Diego 
 and St. Quintin. At the former the Mexicans had risen 
 on the Americans, shot a captain, and cut the throats of 
 forty others. At the latter we had much amusement, 
 fishing, shooting, &c. A cod fish was caught 194lt)s 
 weight; and hares, quail, and duck, fell before the 
 sportsmen. 
 
 At this sunburnt rock two graves were found, in very 
 secluded spots, one of John Sinclair Brown, aged 
 twenty-sis, who was drowned from the ship " Harriet,"" of 
 
 Liverpool, on the , 1819. The other of Justin 
 
 Finch, aged twenty, who departed this life on board the 
 ship ** Shakespeare," of London, 1819. "They rest in 
 peace." 
 
 These head-stones were brought on board and re- 
 painted. In the evening we were surprised and de- 
 lighted to see our old friend who gave us the " enter- 
 tainment" at San Francisco coming into the anchorage. 
 We sent all boats to tow him as the wind fell light, and 
 then had a jovial dinner together, when we talked over 
 all our pleasant evenings again and again ! 
 
 o 'I 
 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 MAZATLAN. 
 
 MAZATLA.N — THZ BAT — ALl IN ARMS — A LIEUTENANT LOST — TOWN 
 — TEDDY o'ROOKE— SAN BLAS — MOSQUITOES AND SAND-FLIES — 
 CAPTAIN TAKEN PRISONER — BULLETIN — NARROW ESCAPE — 
 OLOOMT DEATH — ACAPULCO — FORT SAN CARLOS — CURIOUS 
 VISITORS — shark's VIC TI M — CHRISTMAS DINNER — THE BURNING 
 ISALCOS — EARTHQUAKE — THE NEW YEAR — PANAMA AND 
 TABOO A — NIGHT ON SHORE — A LOVELY CHILENO — PEARL 
 ISLAND — TIGER SHARK — SPANISH BALL — THE ADMIRAL — 
 GRAND FUNCION — PAYTA — THE MAN OF OALWAT— CALLAO. 
 
 L. '■ 
 
 !■ 
 
 4 ! 
 
 N; 
 
 Mazatlan was our next point of destination, and 
 where we anchored in safety, calling, however, at Mag- 
 dalena Bay, where hare shooting occupied our attention, 
 some having bagged six during a day's sport. Mazatlan 
 is as picturesque a bay as nature ever formed, islands 
 covered with low green shrubs, purple masses of smooth 
 rock bursting forth, having large snow white rocks be- 
 tween, the long ground-swell from the Gulf of Cali- 
 fornia dashing its foam far above their tops ; the town at 
 the head of the bay, composed of neat whitewashed 
 buildings, relieved by groves of cocoa-nut trees, with 
 ripe brown nuts under their shade. 
 
 The people are all in arms expecting the Americans, 
 and no person retires to his bed without his gun or 
 
 
SAN BLAS. 
 
 197 
 
 ncans, 
 in or 
 
 pistol under his pillow. Not ten days since they 
 had a skirmish with a corvette's boats, which they 
 completely repelled and drove off'; and, from what I can 
 see of the streets, there will be desperate fighting if they 
 come to close quarters. 
 
 We are at anchor close to the spot where, only, a few 
 days since, a lieutenant of an English frigate was 
 drowned in the rollers, deeply and deservedly regretted. 
 
 The town is pretty, and rather extensive, superior in 
 every way to Panama, Callao, &o. But thousands of 
 residents had already departed consequent on the war, and 
 it was therefore a little dull. The shops, mostly Parisian 
 and German, are on an elegant scale, and made one fancy 
 when he saw ** Mons. Beville, Tailor, from Paris," that 
 he was in New Bond-street. Everything was to be had 
 here, as Jack says, from a " cambric needle to a bower 
 anchor." Beds were scarce; and a good skittle-alley 
 where, for exercise and to avoid the heat of the sun, many 
 an hour was spent 
 
 On sailing from Mazatlan we passed close under the 
 stern of an old friend, where we backed our main top- 
 sail, while the band played ** Teddy O'Rooke's the boy, 
 sirs," from as happy a ship as flies the pendant of her 
 Majesty ! We filled, and waved adieu I 
 
 At San Bias water was completed, and any unfoitunate 
 mid, who has had the ill-luck to be in charge of a watering 
 party there, will never forget it. The heat is intolerable, or 
 the rain pours. During the day the « almost invisible 
 sand- flies prey on you, and in the morning and evening 
 the mosquitoes; when one goes the other comes. " Watch 
 and watch ;*' you cannot go into the water to avoid them, 
 
i'l 
 
 !!■ M 
 
 It il 
 
 '"I 
 
 ■n 
 
 ■i \\ 
 
 198 
 
 MOSQUrrOES— SAND FLIES. 
 
 for in the fresh lagoon are alligators, and in the salt- 
 water sharks, both alike hungry. In vain do you rub 
 your face, hands, and feet all over with lime juice, 
 every trip you make ; in vain do you take your necker- 
 chief and tie it over your face, cutting two small holes 
 to see through ; it is all to no purpose, they will penetrate 
 anything. Your boots, your blanket-frock, where the 
 mosquito cannot insert its proboscis from its size, 
 the sand-fly will find out. You rub, you scratch, you 
 irritate, you make sore every part of your body, although 
 you have declared a thousand times you will not touch 
 a bite, but let them '' bite on." You cannot resist. I 
 have on many occasions not known my own boat's crew, 
 they have been so disfigured, and many temporarily 
 blind ; on one occasion I did not know my watchmate. 
 It is really pitiable in some, and no severer test can a 
 person's philosophy of temper be put to than to send him 
 a " few trips " in the watering boat. The most amiable, 
 the most patient, the most enduring, will give way under 
 it. The newest comer has the most attention paid him, 
 they follow you oif to the ship in myriads each trip, 
 and heartily do you pray when water is completed. 
 
 It will be seen, when perusing my journal, that the 
 whole coast of Mexico was in a state of terror of the 
 Americans, who they expected hourly at each and every 
 port to bombard them. This sometimes caused a question 
 and delay on our part, for it was difficult for the 
 Mexicans to tell English from Americans, and on one of 
 these occasions we were nearly suffering a severe loss. 
 
 In a small bay near Acapnlco we had occasion to 
 anchor, and where not a li\'ing creature appeared to be 
 
' 
 
 CAPTAIN TAKKN I'KIMONKU. 
 
 199 
 
 located — no house, or auytliin^ that would indicate a 
 native's residouce. Three or tour boats lauded with men 
 and officers, on various duties, but no sooner had they 
 entered tlio hush than four or five hundred Mexican 
 soldiers, with loaded nuiskets and bayonets fixed, rushed 
 out and took them prisoners, marching them to a sited 
 inland, and hauHiig the boats up dry on the beach. They 
 were mistaken tor Americans, and all means failed to 
 persuade the Governor that we were really English. 
 This was a most unpleasant predicament to be placed in, 
 and a despatch was at once sent away to the Governor of 
 Acapulco, who is the senior officer ; this, however, would 
 cause some delay. Wo were allowed to communicate 
 with the " prisoners" from the ship once a day, and it 
 was curious to see the bulletin daily brought on bourd: 
 
 Isi day. The Governor is reported " very drunk," 
 and it is not known what he may do during his fits of 
 distraction. 
 
 2nd day. Governor a little more sober ; his family 
 arrive from Sacatago, and express a wish to see the ship. 
 
 P.M. The Governor says, " that if a favourable answer 
 does not not come soon from Acapulco, he will be com- 
 pelled to shoot them all." ** How can I release you?" 
 says he ; ** if I do, my troops here will say you are 
 Atinericans. I shall be marched off to Acapulco, im- 
 prisoned, and shot. 
 
 3rcZ diiy. Things getting very serious. All the 
 prisoners were marched to-day to a sj)ot where a pit wa* 
 dug (intended as a general grave), and overhanging it 
 the branch of a tree, where the Commandant told tb-'H 
 all they were to be hung, and then buried beneath. 
 
200 
 
 A GLOOMY DEATH. 
 
 Uh day. The men all came aft to-day to request to 
 be allowed to " cut out,** and rescue tlieir captain and 
 officers; this was, however, impossible, because it was 
 declared by the Commandant, " that at the first sign of 
 an attempt to land, or a boat leaving the ship at night, 
 all on shore would be sacrificed ; " and he meant it too. 
 
 5th day. Late in the evening 180 more troops, " The 
 Regulars" arrive as a reinforcement. 
 
 6th day. An order from the Govornor of Acapulco 
 aiTives ordering "the immediate release of all the English 
 prisoners," a severe reprimand to the Comn.andant, his 
 immediate recall to Acapulco, and the sergeant who 
 saved all their lives to be acting Governor ; for I forgot 
 to mention, on our first landing, the Mexicans presented 
 their arms, and were going to fire at once on us, but 
 the sergeant instantly stopped them ; he was now 
 rewarded. 
 
 They were all a little disappointed at seeing us embark, 
 for preparations had been made that we should be hung 
 on the morrow. Some went so far as to touch the 
 Captain's jacket, and say in Spanish, "This is mine 
 to-morrow; " another bespoke his cap, and all had pitched 
 on some part of the uniform as relics. A Mexican 
 officer appeared sorely disappointed; he had travelled 
 three successive days to see them shot. Ladies had also 
 come a long distance from the interior to witness the 
 pleasant ceremony of hanging or shooting a jovial Irish 
 captain and his amiable followers. They all came off 
 very dirty and very fatigued, Ljiving been one week under 
 a shed. 
 
 Again deaths gloomy death, visits our expedition, and 
 
 \* !■ 
 
 ■u Hi : 
 
ACAPULCO. 
 
 201 
 
 the 
 
 [rish 
 
 leoff 
 
 ider 
 
 land 
 
 we lose one of our most amiable young cadets of disease 
 of the lungs, brought on by sleeping in the open air at 
 night He was buried in an untrodden corner of this 
 bay, 'neath the shade of a bread-fruit tree. How true it 
 is, that " mail hath but a short time to live, and is full 
 of misery : he cometh up, and is cut down like a flower ; 
 he fleeth as it were a shadow, as a tale that is told." 
 
 We then sail for Acapulco ; this was the great 
 rendezvous of the buccaneers in days gone by, and 
 many a richly-laden galleon hjd cast anchor where we 
 now are — a snug land-locked bay, with Fort St. Carlos 
 frowning over us on our right, the watering-place on the 
 left, and the once rich and famous town at the head of 
 the bay. The Governor made ** thousands of apologies" 
 for his brother officer, who "he intended to place in 
 Fort San Carlos, and eventually making an example of 
 him by shooting or hanging." 
 
 Several visitors of note came on board, as it was a rare 
 occasion to see an English ship of war at anchor here ; 
 many came more for the curiosity of seeing those men 
 who were to be shot (for our fame had gone abroad) than 
 to see the vessel. We had ** cavalry officers" and 
 army officers in ** plain clothes" ; short green camlet 
 jackets, tall white hats, taut trowscrs, no stockings, 
 and Jemima boots, completed the costume of an " army 
 officer " — in mufty ! 
 
 At midnight we were all roused up by screams and 
 tthrieks a short distance from where we lay, and were 
 just in time to hear, '*0h I Oh I my God ! " ** Lord save 
 my soul ! '" A boat was at once lowered and sent to the 
 spot ; nothing could be seen ! An incorrigible character, 
 
 1 ■ 
 
 
 u 
 
 ii '; 
 
 
V 
 
 202 
 
 SHARK S VICTIM. 
 
 6' t 
 
 who had been a prisoner some time on board, lowered 
 himself down from one of the ports near where he was 
 secured and endeavoured to swim on shore, but was 
 taken by a shark, and disappeared directly after we had 
 heard his last words. All next day his body was dragged 
 for, but could not be found. The bay is alive with 
 sharks, and it is to be presumed he was soon torn to 
 pieces. What an awful manner for a being to be 
 ushered, in the midst of sin, to the presence of his 
 Maker ! 
 
 A Christmas dinner had been prepared — a substantial 
 one — and, as it was our first favourable one together, 
 wu intended to do justice to it. It was a lovely morning. 
 We were enchanted with the pleasing scene presented 
 by the burning Isalcos mountains, each one forming a 
 perfect cone of itself, many in active volcanic eruption, 
 and standing 10,500 feet above us ! The horizon 
 becomes hazy, the barometer falls, a gale comes on, fore- 
 sail, fore and main topsails are split, and all have to be 
 shifted ; the sea rose, the boats were hoisted " in- board,'* 
 and we lay to in almost a hurricane un ;ier storm stay- 
 sails, and in this dilemma we eat our Christmas dinner — 
 a turkey flying here, a round of beef there, marmalade 
 tarts in the scuppers, a bottle of champagne pitched 
 into your neighbour's lap, and thus, ** happy-go-lucky, " 
 we went through the form of the day, crossing the Gulf 
 of " Tehuantepic." 
 
 Bodegas, a small town at the foot of the burning 
 Isalcos, was passed; and here we distinctly felt three 
 shocks of earthquake. It shook the ship, and all imagined 
 she had run on shore. Sounded, and found 38 fathoms. 
 
NIGHT ON SHORE. 
 
 203 
 
 CV " 
 
 Gulf 
 
 tning 
 three 
 filled 
 ioms. 
 
 On new year**s day we wert off San Salvador, which 
 city is situated on a ridge between two burning 
 mountains. Near this spot we saw the old year out and 
 new year in, with much noise and merriment. 
 
 Realejo, Cardon, and other smaller towns, were in their 
 turns passed, famous only for sugar and distilleries, and 
 again the ship anchored in Panama Bay. Rar over to 
 Taboga for water, visited our friends, embraced Donna 
 Anna, found my little washing girls had the fever, and 
 Lady Mulgrave as fat as ever. All these are characters, 
 but would occupy volumes to bring them forth ; what 
 am I to do ? prudence says, be quiet ! 
 
 I imagined that a night on shore at Panama would be 
 a C/iai^ge, a variety^ after six hundred nights on board ; 
 b )Wi V* to any one who has slept, or tried to sleep, in a 
 bpanish town, I wish them joy. I could not do so. I 
 endeavoured in vain to close my eyes ; musicians kept 
 me uneasy until one or two o'clock in the morning, the 
 cock then commenced crowing, which was at once taken 
 up by dogs barking and howling (the howl of a Spanish 
 half-starved dog is not pleasant), then by donkeys bray- 
 ing, and finally at daylight by the unmusical drums and 
 fifes of the soldiers next house to us, which continued 
 until eight o'clot^k, when I arose ; and just as I had com- 
 menced a poll: I round the room with black Chincha, a 
 message can. '• '5/ "the ship was off!" 
 
 There is 'i .; '.r harmony to a musical ear in the 
 combined efforts v r donkey's bray, a soldier's tattoo, a 
 howling dog, and the chuckling of a quantity of cocks 
 and hens. One at a time would be preferred, if it 
 must be so ; but all togetlier ! Oh ! and to which only 
 

 I -v 
 
 ill 
 
 204 
 
 A LOVELY CHILENO. 
 
 the musquitoes could keep time, which they did I The 
 hotel I was staying at (indeed, the only one in Panama) 
 has a table d'hote, at which all meet ; and the loud bell 
 sounded for breakfast at nine a.m. I was repaid for all 
 my nights' sufferings by only sitting at the table with 
 one of the most lovely Chilenos that imagination can 
 picture or the idea fancy ; a family on their way to St. 
 Jago-de- Chili, their native place, having been on a tour 
 in England and Paris three-and-a-half years, were now 
 returning ; General B., his wife, and three daughters, the 
 eldest married, the youngest, a lovely Ohileno, black 
 eyes and hair, and a musical Castilian voice. All I 
 know is, that I paid six re , •« for a breakfast, which I 
 scarcely looked at ! and I u.) hink I was the only 
 
 one I 
 
 A cruise round the Pearl Islands occupied us some tima 
 All were visited, in number I think, 125. There is but 
 one town, if it deserves the name, of any importance, St. 
 Miguel, on the island of that name. In many places, 
 the people fled on our approach, fancying we were the 
 " Flores expedition," of whom they had heard, and whom 
 they were daily expecting. Here we saw the pearl 
 divers obtaining the oysters, remaining under water 72 
 to 75 seconds, when they came up with their baskets 
 full. Here also are the largest sharks in the world. 
 The " tiger shark," — I shall not attempt to estimate its 
 size, for I would not be creoxted, even were I within 
 bounds. Here also may be seen the much-dreaded 
 ** Tintero," or devil fish. It lays on the white sands in 
 shallow waters with its graspers spread, and when it sees 
 its prey above it, rises, clasps it in its fins, and descends 
 
it : 
 
 SPANISH PARTY. 
 
 205 
 
 in 
 sees 
 ids 
 
 It is a horrible-looking fish, more dreaded by the natives 
 than the shark. 
 
 On our return to the pretty village of Taboga, we find 
 it burned to the ground — an accident A few days were 
 enlivened here by the presence of the Admiral and his 
 amiable family; tlic consequence is, some pleasant 
 parties, pic-nics and dejeuners. At a Spanish party, or 
 ball, you must not expect the company to be very select ; 
 you must not be surprised or horrified if you meet the 
 young lady who sold you your kid gloves, or your tailor's 
 family, or the chap that waited on you at your last table 
 d'h6te dinner, or the young fellow who marked your 
 game of billiards. These you must expect — any may 
 be your vis-a-vis in a quadrille or country dance. 
 
 Afterwards I witnessed a "grand funcion," — anew 
 bishop elected in lieu of the one who died the day of our 
 arrival. The Cathedral was crowded with the elite of 
 Panama, beautifully and gaudily attired. The cere- 
 mony of kissing hands I thought most absurd; the 
 majority kissed a diamond ring which his lordship wore, 
 and which had been handed down from his Holiness the 
 Pope. Their sins were forgiven for a period <?/ forty 
 DAYS, after kissing the ring, and the ceremony ended ; 
 his train-bearers handed him carefully out into the 
 dirty streets of Panama. A "convenient" religion 
 thought I. After many pleasant evenings in Panama 
 at the Admiral's, the Governor's, Consul's, &c., we 
 sailed for Callao, touching at Payta, and passing close to 
 the melancholy spot where we lost our amiable friend. 
 All those sad feelings on that occasion were again 
 revived, and we could not pass it without a sigh. 
 
 
206 
 
 QALWAY MAN. 
 
 SP 
 
 
 ■ill 
 
 II ;s ■ ■ 
 
 At Payta, we found our " Galway man " had been 
 raised to the liigh position of a consular agent, and had 
 now the Union Jack floating proudly over his premises. 
 We had a queer dance there that evening. 
 
 
 
(JHAPTEli VI. 
 LIMA. 
 
 LIMA— OITR CASTILTAN — JIB-BOOM STREET — A DONKEY PIC-NIC — 
 MISS CHAMBERS — LOVELY EMILY — FINISH — KEEL-HAULING — 
 RESORT — SERENADE — THE EMBARGO — ADIEU TO CALLAO, 
 
 Arriving at Callao, on her Majesty's Coronation-day, 
 we were able to partake in tlie loyalty displayed on that 
 occasion. Coming down the coast from Payta, several 
 small towns were seen ; Huanchaco, Truxillo, and Santa 
 being among those most worthy of note, all surrounded 
 by extensive ranchas and numerous cattle. By-the-bye, 
 while it occurs to me, I may as well state that, as we 
 are now on a Spanish coast, I shall have occasion to make 
 use of many Spanish terms, so as still to retain the 
 sentiment they contain; therefore, as they are from 
 fGcollection onlyi many may be found misspelt and 
 wrongly accentuated, therefore I must ask indulgence 
 on this point, as I had not time when writing to fly to a 
 dictionary on every occasion. One thing I am con- 
 vinced of, that a Castilian word, or term, will lose none of 
 its " sweet sentiment " by being either wrongly spelt 
 or by the omission of a letter. 
 
 On my last visit to this place, it will be recollected 
 that I was not favourably impressed with my fii-st stroll 
 
208 
 
 A IK)NKKY riCVK*. 
 
 ■; i 
 
 ^1 
 
 :ir 
 
 
 if' 
 
 on slioro; bosidoa tho nmcl dogs, naked chicken, and 
 monkoy cata, which ovorywlicro suitoiuuUmI mo then, 
 wo had now tho addition of donkeys, and those hitter 
 wore tnrnotl to a first-rate account. Our first evening 
 hero was i)assed in a most deli;j;iitful nnd amusing 
 manner. There wore many "mids" now in Imrhour, 
 and all had returned from a long sea cruise ; they had, 
 therefore, some money, which was already 'burning 
 holes in their pockets." All who could bo spared from 
 duty assembled on shore, and with two " ilouble-barrel- 
 led organs " and a guitar (although on a rough ground), 
 wo passed a very tolerable evening with many whom wo 
 had invited from highways and byeways — Fandangos, 
 Refelliosas, and Zandm Cuecas — until a very late hour. 
 Our refreshments were "fisgig and sherry." On 
 returning to tho boat at the mole rather late, we 
 presented the faithful sentry, who was "walking his 
 post," With a new broom, which some of the pai'ty found 
 we had accidentally brought away from a billiard-room 
 in which we had had our dancing party. 
 
 Scveiitjf of the donkeys I have just alluded to were, 
 to-day, collected by the residents of Callao, and a pic-nic 
 given to the officers of the squadron. At noon, we were 
 all mounted, our rendezvous at an Irishman's housOi 
 and made a grand start. When we had overcome the 
 excitement of mounting, and settling and adjusting riding 
 habits, &e., and fairly on the road, we looked back on 
 the scene; it was perfectly ludicrous, and no person, 
 under the most painful circumstances, could have resisted 
 a downright laugh. People, of all sorts and sizes, on 
 donkeys of much the same pattern, smothered in dust, 
 
noNKKY ri(;Nn;. 
 
 20!) 
 
 rere, 
 
 -nic 
 
 irere 
 
 >ufley 
 
 the 
 
 ling 
 
 on 
 pson, 
 [sted 
 
 on 
 lust, 
 
 bringing a cloud aftor thnir cavaload*' ; «lr)nk<'yH 
 breaking down wiMi thoir loads, Iiidios rolling off in tlio 
 dust, HailorK ri«ling. sotno "HtMrn forotnoKt," otliorn 
 dragging thoir aninials l»y tlio Uridlw, nicno «;o»Jxing 
 them with jdiis, whs now tlin Hoono along tho whole 
 rood. 
 
 Before starting, thrtM) of the very small and goo«l 
 looking cadois wore dressed in ladi«,'s' riding habits, hals, 
 bonnets and veils, and but one or two of tlw party knrw 
 of this circtimHtanco ; they lookiul well, and by acting 
 their part admirably, deceived even their own mess- 
 mates. AuS each new comer arrived, he was introduced 
 formally to Miss Carpenter, Miss Delarusy, and Miss 
 Chambers, who made graceful acknowledgments ; even 
 one of very high rank was taken in, br)wed, and raised 
 his cocked hat to the young strarjgers. A remarkable 
 scene occurred on the road, — thc^se young trio in ladies' 
 attire made themselves so very agreoabh; (moreover 
 being strangers, and keeping their faces protected from 
 the sun by having down their thick veils), that they 
 received more than their proper share of attentions, and 
 all were vieing with each other who should be the 
 favoured ones. Mi.«s Chambers slipped off her donkey I 
 all rushed of course, particularly a young doctor ! " She 
 needed no assistance," but some would persist in lifting 
 her on again. Several attempts were made, one on this 
 side one at the other, to catch her ; 'twas of no use. 
 We hod by this time all assembled about her in roars of 
 laughter ; to have lifted her habit, for the purpose of 
 placing her foot on a gentleman's hand, would have 
 revealed the secret. " Stand on one side," nays she, for- 
 
210 
 
 THE LOVFLY FMILY. 
 
 I 
 
 getting her sex, gathered up lier habit, and jumped on 
 the donkey on "all fours," and settled hersolf. We 
 thought this very (|ucer. 
 
 On .irriving at the ground all the donkeys w«rc 
 secured, the cloth and lunch laid out, and the several 
 couples — boys and girls — strolled ; Miss Carpenter had 
 her beau. Miss D. and C. their's ; the former "pair" 
 really attracted attention, they were, what Jack would 
 call, " quite spooney." However, it was rude to watch 
 them, and they were allowed to " gain an offing," when 
 a circumstance occurred, in which Miss C. throwing up 
 her veil, and dashing her hat off, said to her most par- 
 ticular friend and messmate, " Is it possible you don't 
 know me ? " All the story was then told where she had 
 dressed, whose clothing they had on, and so forth, which 
 afforded much amusement to all. We dined and 
 danced, danced and dined, on a very liberal scale, — 
 mountains of eatables and rivers of drinkables ; when we 
 completed the afternoon with donkey racing, hopping, 
 cliase the goose, and some songs. 
 
 The lovely Emily Mc Pherson was of our party ! her 
 melancholy dejected countenance could not be looked on 
 without sympathy and even pain ; to see her was to 
 admire her, to admire was to feel yourself irretrievably 
 in love with her. The cause of her despair is a short 
 story. She came out from England not a long time 
 since to meet an only brother, who had advanced so far 
 in business, as to write for her to come and keep his 
 house for him. At considerable expense and a dreary 
 sea voyage overcome, she arrived, and found him dead ! 
 Her grief for some days was excessive, and even danger 
 
KKKL IIAUMNO. 
 
 211 
 
 her 
 on 
 to 
 ibly 
 bhort 
 Itime 
 far 
 his 
 teary 
 lead ! 
 Inger 
 
 apprehended ; this caused a pale innocence to take po«- 
 session of hor cheek, which contrasted well with the 
 deep mourning she hrid on. This was the first time I 
 had seen her, and a more lovely expression of coun- 
 tenarce I have seldom witnessed. T would not be 
 introduced to her. an indescribable dread came over me, 
 that seemed to say, once to know l^'mily was never to 
 leave her ; and once to speak to hor, was that instant to 
 be a prisoner for ever. Sho danced gracefully, rode 
 stylishly, and talked of sweet romances 1 
 
 It was a dark night when we came into town, fatigued 
 and smothered in dust ; after about an hour's rest we 
 had a bath in one house, dressed in another, had our 
 shoes polished in a third ; and finished the evening 
 lounging and chatting, drinking innumerable small 
 refreshing cups of tea, and sweet cakes, while gazing 
 in the faces of all our pic-nic party, among whom was 
 again the lovely, innocent and attractive Emily. The 
 lovely Emily was shortly afterwards united to one of the 
 noblest Lieutenants in H. M/s navy, after only a few 
 days* courtship. 
 
 KEEL HAULING. 
 
 It may be often heard said, that our punishments in 
 the navy, such as flogging, &c., " are very severe." It is 
 not so, it is trifling when compared with other services, 
 French, American, Russian, &c. To-day we witnessed 
 the process of keel-hauling, which was inflicted on two 
 men belonging to a French brig of war. The men 
 were " spread eagled," that is stretched out, and a thirty- 
 two pound shot tied to their legs. The hands are 
 
 P 2 
 
 il. 
 
 i ( 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
212 
 
 JIB-BOOM STHEET. 
 
 :'afef. 
 
 turned up and the warrants read, the sufferer is triced 
 up to the main-yard arm by " all hands ;" let fall, and 
 kept under water fifty seconds (I think) by a watch, he 
 is then run up again, let fall, and so forth three times. 
 Two days after one victim died ! Compare this with 
 our flogging, and which is worse ? One is the natural 
 consequence of crime, the other barbarous and inhuman. 
 
 There is a street in Callao laying at right angles to 
 the shore, which is named " Jib-boom Street ;" this was 
 the scene of many a noisy evening of dancing and 
 singing, as well as a " few rows." At Carmasita's house 
 in particular, two harps, two organs and a guitar, always 
 met us ; and the matting was danced off the room, and 
 liie soles off our shoes, and we frequently remained until 
 past twelve, when the faithful pilot " Ignacio" steered 
 us in the ^^uard boat to our respective ships, passing the 
 three admirals, English, French and Peruvian, whom we 
 never neglected to serenade. Young gentlemen under 
 the age of sixteen were strictly prohibited from going 
 to those evening dances in " Jib-boom Street," and three 
 having outstepped the law, suffered by being sent from 
 a truly Jiappy to a very unhappy ship, with a notice 
 of only ten minutes *o prepare their kits, the vessel 
 under weigh bound on a long soa voyage ! 
 
 Having bid adieu to Callao, I fear " for ever," started 
 for Payta, arriving in four days, which occupied us 
 twenty-four in coming to Callao. We had only time to 
 give a dinner to the new Consul, "the man for 
 Galway," when we sailed for the Gulf of Guayaquil, 
 and anchored off the city, where dwelt the •' Fairest of 
 the Fair." 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 GUAYAQUIL 
 
 OUAYAQUIL — 7AIRG8T OF THE FAIR — BANGS — BASIL HALl — 
 GRAND DIVERCION — THE VISIT — SCENTS AND FRAGRANT BEADS 
 — PUNA — THE GRAVE — PANAMA — RAINY SEASON — W — 's 
 WEDDING l>REVENrED — CUPICA BAY — 8ALAN0 — ESCAPE — SAN 
 JUAN — SUFFER FROM SICKNESS — LETTERS — MY FIRST 
 MOURNING. 
 
 from 
 lotice 
 /essel 
 
 We wgre a little surprised in the morning early, to find 
 thf ' anks of the river crowded with persons, boys and 
 g: dies and old men, taking their banos, a recreation 
 
 they are very fond of ; they sit up to their waists in 
 water, and pour it from calaljashes over their heads for 
 hours together, until the heat of the sun compels them 
 to retire, and you see no person then until evening. 
 Spanish hammocks are seldom seen now, except an 
 occasional one in a verandah. The "Fairest of the 
 Fair" took umbrage at the remark of Basil Hall, who 
 said, without an intention of offending, "When he 
 entered the drawing-rooms it was with difficulty he 
 threaded his way through the many hammocks which 
 were flitting about with fair occupants," it made him 
 
21!^ 
 
 THE VISIT. 
 
 
 Lfii 
 
 " quite giddy," and " he almoBt required a pilot." They 
 considered this a reflection on their innocent habits and 
 customs, and now not a hammock is to be seen in any 
 of their " quartas," I tTHt,'c they will not consider my 
 remark on their healthy pastime as reflecting any 
 discredit. 
 
 The governor paid us an oflicial visit, accompanied by 
 his aide-de-camp, and in the evening there was a grand 
 " diversion" and procession, the militia were called out 
 and exercised, (they were now in bodily fear of " Flores' 
 expedition") after which a bullock was roasted, and 
 sen'ed out with plenty of aguadient6. The procession 
 was grand, attended by the civil and military bands, the 
 " saints" of the several chapels elevated and carried by 
 men, the " Virgin Mary" escorted by all the virgins, who 
 wore long black ribbons, carrying long lighted tallow 
 candles, which from the heat of the s\m were weeping 
 much quicker in the hands than at the wic!^, The 
 crowds who assembled at the windows and on the bal- 
 conies, were gaudily and beautifully dressed, and full of 
 smiles. 
 
 We visited one of the m^pt ancient, wealthy, and most 
 agreeable of the residents, where we were provided, as 
 Basil Hall describes, with glasses of fresco, delicious 
 scents, and fragrant beads, the latter the produce of the 
 fire fly on the bean of the laburnum (I think; The 
 three sefioritas entered one by one after they had com- 
 pletod their toilet, sang and played the piano and guitar 
 for us. The eldest sang the " Somnambula" to per- 
 fection, the others duettos. The amiable mother took 
 the trouble to tell i:s more than once the names of her 
 
PUNA— THE GUAVK 
 
 215 
 
 her 
 
 daughters, who were certainly good spociniens of the 
 " fairest of the fair ;" the youngest, I thought, the faireiit 
 and most beautiful picture of a Spanish girl I had ever 
 seen ; to escape from the piercing rays of those eyes, 
 " como estrellos," one does indeed deserve credit. 
 
 I must never pass over the extreme hospitality we all 
 received from the British Consul at Puna. A more worthy, 
 kind and generous old English gentleman, it would be 
 difficult to find ; his was always bachelor's Imll and open 
 house. 
 
 Puna is the country residence of our friend, an island 
 at the entrance of the Guayaquil river, out of which we 
 quietly and " slyly" kedged very early in the morning, 
 on our way again to Panama, calling at S'Elena, 
 Salango, Manta, and Sua ; this latter is close to the spot 
 where the melancholy and never-to-be-forgotten accident 
 occurred two years since. We visited our departed 
 friend's grave ; it was unchanged ! a tree or two were 
 gradually increasing in size, drooping and weeping over 
 it. And on Sundn\ , in a deluge of rain, we anchored at 
 Panama. It was tiie day of Panamanian independence, 
 and a salute of twenty-eig'ht guns was fired from those 
 pieces of ordnance 1 have before minutely described ! 
 
 The town was dull, dull in every sense of the term. 
 It, was the rainy season, thunder, lightning and rain 
 without ceasing, and the sickly season had carried off 
 many — the mourners still weeping ! 
 
 In my first walk on shore I met my friend Mr. Webster. 
 After introducing himself he said, " he had seen much 
 of the world — his head was broken, his jaw dislocated, 
 ribs sticking out, right thigh broken, hands lacerated, 
 
216 
 
 WEBSTER 8 WEDDING. 
 
 :!■ ; 
 
 t 
 
 eye gouged ; on bis thumbs were still the marks where 
 he had been strung up to confess to a church robbery, 
 his ancles wounded, having had seventy pounds of iron 
 on them to prevent his hauling himself up." All these / 
 satv, and it would have made it shorter, if I had at once 
 said, he was literally mangled. He was anxious to 
 barter a collection of very beautiful shells for some 
 drawings of mine, hence our acquaintance! "The 
 pictures," he told me, " were to adorn his house, as he 
 was about to be married to a very pretty Spanish girl, 
 with plenty of money and property, whose brother was 
 to purchase him a vessel which he was to command. 
 There was only one impediment to his marriage, that 
 was, he could get no person to certify that he had not 
 been previously married in Europe. This was easily 
 overcome ; tiiree mids arranged it ! and " certified that 
 James Webster, son of James and Margaret his wife, 
 was not. to the best of their belief previously married." 
 This was after dinner ! we reflected (midshipmen, how- 
 ever, seldom do so), and on second thoughts, fearing that 
 th«? Bishop of Panama might call on one of us to " give 
 Webster away," the certificate was cancelled after due 
 deliberation, and poor weather-beaten Webster left to 
 pine. He was a native of Carrickfergus, in Ireland. 
 
 I may say the rains washed us away from Panama. 
 We had already lost some of our best sailors, and many 
 wore now suffering, so we thought " prudence the best 
 part of valour," and sailed. This gp,ve us an opportunity 
 of seeing " Cupica Bay,'" into which it was contemplated 
 to cut the canal thiough the Isthmus of Darien, irom the 
 Atrato River — a grand scheme, it ever attempted. I 
 
 ; I 
 
SAN JUAN. 
 
 217 
 
 id 
 
 10 
 
 I 
 
 ventured up the river in a canoe, about a mile, and saw 
 that the highest part of land to l)e cut would be about 
 300 feet in elevation. 
 
 Off the Salano River, another distressing accident had 
 nearly deprived us of one more nhipmate. 
 
 I had just sat down to dinner, when I heard the " boats 
 suddenly called away," and I was ordered to go in one, to 
 rescue one of our smaller boats, which had capsized in the 
 surf. Fortunately, no one was drowned, but everything 
 lost, and the crew had a very narrow escape. 
 
 Chirambera is at one of the mouths of the " San Juan," 
 which very nearly divides America. The distance to the 
 hea<l of the river, on which stands the city of Nov^t^, 
 is not known, bat it takes a canoe seven days to pole up, 
 and a steamer would do it in twenty hours. From the 
 head of this to the " Atrato," on the other side, is a quarter 
 of a league, and can be passed in an hour, running into 
 the Gulf of Darien. There is plenty of water — eight to 
 twelve fathoms — but the navigation is very intricate. 
 The woods abound in wild boar, the sloth, black monkey, 
 and opossum — the latter having a paw much resembling 
 the human hand — many turkeys (wild), and the river i' 
 alive with fish. The rainr ?re incessant ; on au average, 
 only thirty days during the year are without them. The 
 " San Juan" has six mouths. A village stands at the 
 entrance, having a spirit 'irtillery ; the inhabitants are 
 Spanish and Indians, and from the Tadron of the village 
 I obtained most of this information. 
 
 Our " happy," but, I am sorry to add, " sickly" ship, was 
 now well nigh losing our beloved and much respected chief; 
 and this caused our return in haste to Panama. He 
 
218 
 
 FIRST MOURNING. 
 
 remained ill for many days, and was very nearly despaired 
 of, when.tothc astonishment and wonderof all, we received 
 orders to proceed to the "North Pole," by Behring's 
 Strait ; to the chilling and refreshing idea alone, I 
 believe, we were indebted for the recovery of our worthy 
 captain. We were all, of course, in high spirits at so 
 unexpected and welcome a change. As for myself, I 
 was delighted ; nothing could be more charming and 
 novel than a cruise to the Arctic regions, and in so 
 humane a cause. I was rejoicing within myself at this, 
 when a letter was handed to me with a deep black mar- 
 gin ! A chill ran through me. I thought I shoul i have 
 fallen on the deck. I had lost a beloved sister ! All 
 I could say was, " God's will be done I" It was my first 
 mourning ; and, being naturally of a vivacious spirit, I 
 felt this now the keener. I was compelled to live on 
 shore for some days, to endeavour to pass away the grief 
 which this soiTowful intelligence caused me. 
 
 :-i 
 
 
PART THIRD. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 ief 
 
 FRKPABE FOB THE NORTH — A TEBTULIA — RAPHELIA — SAD THOUGHTS 
 
 SANDWICH ISLES SIGNS OF LAND PETROPAVLOVSKOI 
 
 WATERY GRAVE — SALMON — TOMBS OF LOST NAVIGATORS — 
 THE TOWN — A SOIREE DAN8ANTE — VISITORS* REMARKS — THE 
 
 CHABLES, A MISTAKE — BEHBINg's ISLE — NATIVES* VISIT 
 
 NOBTON SOUND — BEIIBING 8TBAIT — ESCAPE FROM WRECK — 
 
 GRAND METEOR — kOTZEBUE SOUND RLOSSOm's MABK A POST 
 
 — THE 8EABCH — BATOABS AND KYAKS — NEWS — THE STUDS — 
 HUGE BONES — COLD — SIBERIA FUNERAL AT SEA. 
 
 " Far as the eye can reach, and all around. 
 Is one vast icy solitude profound ! " 
 
 All was now excitement, bustle, and preparation for a 
 most interesting cruise, in a humane cause ; and it was 
 a strange coincidence that we, who had been the very 
 last to wave our caps, and wish " God speed," should now 
 be chosen to aid in searching for the lost Franklin and 
 his brave associates. We entered on this service with all 
 our hearts and all our endeavours. Warm clothing was 
 preparing, extra prj visions stowing away, benevolent 
 
T 
 
 220 
 
 TKRTULIA. 
 
 •■ 
 
 !!i 
 
 
 .u 
 
 ! I 
 
 boots and soups arriving, presents for natives collecting ; 
 and all these tended much to revive my drooping spirits, 
 which had undergone so severe a test. 
 
 Such was the anxiety prevailing, and such the neces- 
 sity for immediate action, that a large and powerful 
 steamer was sent to tow us through the calms into the 
 trade winds, as there is always a difficulty in getting 
 away from this part of the American coast. 
 
 Water and fresh provisions had to be completed at 
 the pretty little island of Taboga, not many miles from 
 Panama, and our last evening being passed here (which 
 may, perhaps, be the very last), we gave the inhabitants, 
 who had often shown much kindness to us, a parting 
 " 'J'ertulia" (on shore). The white rosette was handed to 
 my charge, and I, therefore, had a busy as well as a 
 responsible day ; and not the least anxious part was the 
 brew, on an extensive scale, of the " Connemara lemon- 
 ade." We were in number about forty-five (for numbers 
 are limited in Taboga), besides numerous gazers from 
 doorways and gallery. The band — three fiddlers, a drum, 
 and triangle ; it was astonishing to see how well the girls 
 managed dances, some of which they had never seen 
 before. One exception, indeed, who was perfect, and at 
 the same time the belle. 
 
 Raph^lia was a visitor on the island ; she was beauti- 
 ful ! she w^as attractive ! Her mother, whom we had 
 before seen, was blind, and the cause was both strange 
 and melancholy. 
 
 Her husband had been shot a short time since, for 
 taking an active part in the disturbance at Ecuador, she 
 being an eye-witness. The moment his body fell, she 
 
SAD THOUGHTS. 
 
 221 
 
 Ld 
 
 (6 
 
 F 
 |e 
 
 |e 
 
 rushed to the spot, and covered it with a sheet which she 
 had prepared, to hide the corpse from a curious and 
 gazing multitude, who had assembled to witness this 
 horrible scene. From this circumstance, her eyes weak- 
 ened, and she eventually lost her sight. Baphelia was 
 the only child, and she was now sent to Taboga, under 
 the care of Donna Anna, to prevent a marriage which 
 was about to take place with one not considered by her 
 mother suitable. She had money and beauty, and to 
 this island she was sent to be saved. 
 
 She was dressed very tastefully, but some one acci- 
 dentally stepped on her flounce, and the skirt came down. 
 The dress was removed, and she appeared in a mere 
 morning costume. At two o'clock next morning, we con- 
 ducted them all to their homes, the band playing " Rule, 
 Britannia," through the quiet streets of Taboga — of 
 course, all assisting at the chorus — uud took an affecting 
 farewell. 
 
 All the boats had been hoisted up, for an early start, 
 and small canoes brought us to our ship, one by one — 
 not, however, before some had already fallen into gutters, 
 others in love, and not a few into sleep on the beach, 
 from which it was difficult to rouse them. 
 
 Daylight we were ofi^, and sad thoughts soon filled the 
 vacancies of pleasure ! 
 
 Our ship, very deep in the water, was towed along at 
 a brisk and pleasant rate, through almost a calm, and 
 the nine hearty cheers we received on parting almost 
 made us fancy success was certain. We were now alone 
 — alone on the trackless and dreary ocean, with nothing 
 but the sky and water to gaze on for many, many days — 
 
 1 
 
222 
 
 SIGNS OF IJ^ND. 
 
 if 
 
 l< i; I 
 
 1 ! ' . I 
 
 ii -1 
 
 I. it- 
 
 h 
 
 \ H 
 
 and having to pass througli the belt of rains ; an idea of 
 the quantity fallen may be roughly formed, when there 
 was collected in one day " clcvt i tons." 
 
 After passing the Sandwich Isles, where the immortal 
 Cook was killed by the natives, in Karakoa Bay, the 
 tropics were cleared, in which we had been one year and 
 nine months. The time hung on us now very heavily, 
 and we often were compelled to have recourse to the 
 innocent games of "jump-back," and marbles made of 
 pitch. 
 
 Three months had now elapsed on our voyage, and we 
 longed to see land once more. Fogs, puffins, lummies, 
 gulls, driftwood, and weed now told us land was not far 
 oflF, and, true enough, next morning opened to our view a 
 scene which none can ever forget. To say it was " grand," 
 would be giving but a very distant idea of its splendour 
 and raagnificenca We found ourselves beneath the 
 mountains of Koriatskoi and Villeuchinskoi, perpetually 
 covered vith snow, at the entrance of the Bay of Awatska, 
 on the peninsula of Kamstchatka. The same evening, 
 the anchor was dropped at the entrance of the bay, after 
 being ninety days at sea. We could hardly reconcile 
 ourselves to the fact, that wo were in a part of the world 
 so many thousands of miles from England, in a place so 
 unknown, and so seldom frequented ; Petropavlovskoi. 
 On the port hand going in, was passed the spot where 
 the packet from Otchosk had lately been wrecked, and 
 fourteen passengers met a watery grave. The whale-boat, 
 also, that went to their assistance was lost, and six hands 
 also perished. Twenty souls from so small a village as 
 Petropavlovskoi was severely felt. After anchoring off 
 
PETROl'AVLOVSKOI. 
 
 223 
 
 flf 
 
 tho cemetery, a boat came oft' with salmon, and forty 
 were purchased for one dollar. Reader, imagine — three 
 months on salt provisions and rain water; our benevolent 
 soups a failure ; our preserved meats Goldner's ! — what 
 an agreeable welcome this was ! 
 
 My first pleasure on going on shore was to visit the 
 tombs of former navigators — Clerk (Cook's captain), 
 Behring, and Pdrouse To the latter's memory the 
 Russians have erected a handsome monument, between 
 the hills on the left of the bay, with an appropriate 
 inscription. It is neatly railed in, and suiTounded with 
 sweet-briar and wild roses. Another, equally handsome, 
 was erected to Behring. It stands in the Governor's 
 garden, fronting the gate ; long tussic grass surrounds it, 
 and by its side is a small waterfall. There is a long 
 inscription (in Rus-sian) on this. Nothing remains of 
 Clerk's, but a notch or two cut in a tree where the body 
 was laid, the inscription having been removed to the 
 church when the gardens were under repair. Of the two 
 former I made sketches, and could not help feeling with 
 deep emotion that I was tracing the outlines of such great 
 *»nd worthy explorers, who had lost their lives in pursuit 
 of knowledge for their country. 
 
 The town is small, but pretty. The houses, which 
 consist of a Chapel, the Governor's, an engine-room, 
 guard-house (fronting which is a battery of small brass 
 guns), and store-houses, are built of logwood. For thr«e 
 months in the year, the weather is fine ; the remaining 
 nine, the snow is above the windows of the houses, and 
 the bay entirely frozen over. We were told that last 
 winter the dogs and sleighs went over the trees in the 
 
r 
 
 224 
 
 SOIREE. 
 
 ''I 
 
 
 V: 
 
 gardens, which are as high as the houses. 'I'he snow 
 takes about three months to accumulate. It thaws a 
 little, then freezes over, and then is the time for the 
 sleighs. 
 
 The people were delighted at having an English man- 
 of-war in their anchorage — something very new to them — 
 and they commenced to show us every manner of atten- 
 tion. Visits were interchanged, and dinner-parties en- 
 joyed, and a " soiree dausante " given at the Governor's 
 hospitable dwelling, to which latter all went, and found 
 all the ladies (about fifteen) in one room, the gentlemen 
 in another; the ladies, headed by Madame, looking 
 beautiful. I cannot say they were all lovely, but they 
 had most pleasing expressions, and some really pretty. 
 '1 he little " Green Parrots " (as we called them) danced 
 with ease, grace, and elegance. The elder of the two was 
 au adopted child, whose father (a Russian officer) and 
 mother both died here, and the little girl was taken under 
 Madame's care, who did her benefactress much credit. 
 The evening commenced with a quick marcli, each gen- 
 tleman taking a lady round both rooms, seating her, 
 then taking another, till all were exhausted ; this was 
 the introduction. Russian country dances and waltzes — 
 the former, a little of everything — were the only ones. A 
 tragic scene was performed in the garden by twenty 
 native Kamstchadales, who sang and acted some bandit 
 afiair remarkably well. We imagined the Russians 
 were rather distant to the ladies, but put a charitable 
 construction on the circumstance, and concluded it 
 must have been "making-room for us." A remark 
 made by a French navigat.or in his narrative hurt much 
 
VISITORS KEMARKS. 
 
 225 
 
 A 
 
 tlie feelings of the ladies. He said " that the females 
 in dancing imitated bear hunts, which when over, they 
 laid down on the ground and perspired so profusely that 
 the smell between oil and fish was anything but agree- 
 able to the nasal organs." 
 
 All I can add to this now is, that if such wrts the case, 
 there is a mo.st wonderful improvement, and they are all 
 following the example of their worthy, handsome, and 
 amiable governess. Another remark was made bv the 
 doctor of a whaling ship, which was published in a small 
 pamphlet, and gave great offence when read, that " many 
 of the people (females) bathed in the pond near the 
 town, adjoining the promenade." This, I was assured 
 by many, was not the truth, and entire fabrication ! 
 
 After many pleasant evenings, we were compelled to 
 say adieu ! — the season was fast drawing to a close, and 
 we must depart. At the entrance of the bay our ship 
 was boarded by the master of a whale-ship, who compli- 
 mented us by saying he thought us the *' whale ship 
 Charles," and was quite surprised on coming on deck ; 
 and he also " calculated we should find it tarnation cold ; 
 and, if we ventured into Behring's Straits, should not come 
 out again this season." None were much astonished at 
 being mistaken for a whaler, for the vessel was very deep, 
 with grass or. the copper, and our small summer spars 
 on deck, and storm .sails bent ; but the prospect of not 
 coming ouo of the ice again was not agreeable to us who 
 had been burning within the tropics for three years, and 
 unprepared for severities, now began to feel the cold in- 
 tensely. Passed Behring's Island, where the great ex- 
 plorer of that name had been cast away, and whose tomb 
 
 Q 
 
 I 
 
' 
 
 226 
 
 NATIVES VISIT. 
 
 we had lately seen. With the exception of a gale of 
 wind off this island, which washed away our hammock 
 nettings, made the ship leak throughout, even into the 
 mid.'s berth and provision rooms, nothing particular 
 occurred until off Cape Tchoukotskoi, when we were 
 visited by the Tchutchis, who came off in five baidars, 
 a new one containing four women, the others manned by 
 from deven to thirteen natives ; and they came alongside 
 without any hesitation or fear. Their baidars were a 
 framework of light wood covered over with a walrus 
 skin laced quite tight, and were both transparent and 
 watertight. Bartering commenced immediately — wal- 
 rus teeth, dresses, and ornaments, for tobacco. The men 
 had all the crowns of their heads shaved, leaving a circle 
 of hair around. We could not understand one word of 
 their language, and therefore could get no information 
 about the object of our mission. They were very merry 
 and vefy fair barterers, were bold and inclined to sky- 
 lark ; but the women were very timid, and apparently 
 modest, and when they saw me endeavour to sketch their 
 faces, turned their heads away (and I was going to say 
 blushed). They were dressed in skins made from the 
 intestines of the seal, and trimmed with bird's feathers, 
 red and black ; their hair was plaited in two plaits, and 
 they were fine, healthy, fresh-looking girls, and wore 
 breeches and boots the same as the men. A fog coming 
 on made them depart quicker than they pleased. 
 
 Arrived off the Russian settlement of Fort St. Michael, 
 in Norton Sound, which we found in command of a ser- 
 geant. Here we came to obtain interpreters and dogs. 
 Of the former we could only get a Russian, who spoke 
 
ESCAPE PROM WRECK. 
 
 227 
 
 say 
 
 the 
 
 lers, 
 
 land 
 
 iTore 
 
 pel, 
 Iser- 
 
 some Spanisli. His wife wished to accompany him 
 (naturally enough), and the parting scene on the beach 
 was very affecting ; such rubbing of noses and cheeks, we 
 thought it would nover cease ! 
 
 Passed through the Straits of Behring, the smallest 
 space between Asia and America, not more tijan forty- 
 five miles ! And here, on the Diomedc Isles, our ship 
 was nearly lost, and Eatmanoff had well nij^h been in- 
 habited. In a dense fog, on a Sunday, the land was seen 
 towering above the mastheads, and the surf roaring 
 against the cliffs, not a cable's length from the ship. She 
 was quickly put about, and out of danger ; but had it 
 been during the night nothing could have saved her, for 
 no one would have thought of looking for land " up in 
 the sky." 
 
 A short time after, the grandest meteor that I suppose 
 the firmament ever produced shot from N.E. through the 
 planet Venus ; it lit up the whole heavens for an instant, 
 burst like a rocket emitting Roman candles, and left a 
 train of liglif in its track. A grander thing cannot be 
 imagined ] ^ ou can only see it to form an idea of it ; to 
 describe it is impossible. 
 
 Arriving, after a four mouths' voyage, at Chamisso 
 Island, Kotzebue Sound, the marks left there by the 
 Blossom twenty-four years since were plainly visible. 
 A few natives were seen, but after a short interview, in 
 which the interpreter could not make them understand 
 b'n, they decamped, having still, no doubt, an impresr- 
 sion of the last visit of the Blossom, when a native was 
 killed in an affray with one of her boat's crews. 
 • A post was fixed on the highest part of the island, 
 
228 
 
 Till-; SEAUCH. 
 
 Ui\ 
 
 m 
 
 bearing an inscription for the guidance of any coming 
 after us. Many carved their names on this post. Mine 
 was on a Spanish real, and others on copper coins, dr ven 
 between the splits of the wood at the head of the mark ; 
 and a bottle was buric^l ten feet magnetic north, ^^'e 
 knew all thcsa would be interesting introductions to any 
 who might first examine it after our departure. 
 
 Our search was now commenced in right earnest. 
 The whole of the American coast was traced, boats sent 
 into every inlet and creek, and every native communi- 
 cated with, to endeavour to gain f ome information of our 
 missing countrymen. Summer was now on the wane. 
 Snow commenced falling. The natives had left their 
 tents for their " yourts," or winter quarters under ground. 
 Winter was fast approaching, and not much time was 
 left. In one of these iulets, " Spafprief," I was sent to 
 And, if possible, some natives ; after tracing the inlet for 
 some miles, seven baidars were espied with natives, who, 
 on seeing us, stood up in their boats, stretched out their 
 arms, gave a " hee," and rubbed their bellies, in token of 
 friendship and welcome. They had been seal-fishing ; 
 but when they saw us approaching the village, followed 
 and accompanied us, racing, throwing their spears and 
 arrows, picking up the birds shot by us, as the boats pro- 
 gressed ; their spears were shod with flints, and they 
 threw them with dexterity and precision, and made their 
 " kyaks " (which are a light framework with a seal-skin 
 stretched tight over, having only a hole la.ge enough for 
 a man to sit in) fly again through the water. 
 
 Our Russian interpreter was here informed by an old 
 man, that he had heard from a person who had just 
 
HUGE BONES. 
 
 229 
 
 lold 
 lust 
 
 arrived from the head of the Buckland river, that " he 
 bad seen a party of men dressed like sailors, with an 
 officer, having a gold band on his cap and brass buttons. 
 They had come from a main body, who were further 
 inland, and had bought up all the venison ; they could 
 not speak, nor make themselves understood to any of the 
 natives ; the spot where they are is ten days' journey 
 from this overland, but a boat could reach it in a very 
 short time." 
 
 It was difficult to know what conclusion to come to 
 about this strange story, so " waited awhile." 
 
 Nearly all the natives seen had sore eyes, and wore 
 wooden spectacles with a slit in them, to protect the eyes 
 from sand and snow ; they also had the cheek or lip 
 ornaments of jet black, iu the shape of a stud, worn on 
 each side of the lower lip, and really looked horrible, 
 especially when che mcisions had been newly made. 
 
 Returned on board immediately to report our story. 
 
 Boats were immediately sent away to gather more infor- 
 mation, and to confirm our former report. 1'hey could 
 not find M single native, i)ut they were fortunate in col- 
 lecting on the Escholtz Clifts many fossil remains of the 
 mastadon and Siberian ox — tusks, teeth, parts of skull, 
 some with the hair on ; one tusk alone weighed 243 Ibr,. 
 These animals are long since extl'ict, and, as they were 
 of Siberia, aie supposed to have come to the American 
 coast in ice-drifts many years since. 
 
 The cold was now getting vory severe. As the water 
 was poured on the decks to wash ) h«^m it froze. We 
 were all getting benumbed and par:ilyzed with its inten- 
 sity. After being three and a b.alf years in the tropics. 
 
 '[ 
 
 r 
 
230 
 
 FUNERAL AT SEA. 
 
 1' 
 ■ » 
 
 :■}■■ 
 
 and suddenly transported, unprepared, to within the 
 Arctic circle, we felt the change most severely, and now 
 concluded that it was high time to retrace our steps. 
 
 After many arrangements had been concluded we 
 made a final start, and were literally blown out of the 
 straits in a snow storm, passing close to, but without 
 seeing, the rock on which we were so nearly leaving our 
 ribs. East Cape and the mountains of Siberia were very 
 grand ; the former covered with a deep red sorrel ; the 
 latter with snow. The deep fissures and caves in East 
 Cape, hollowed out by Arctic gales for years past, made 
 it appear very imposing. 
 
 On our passage to Petropavlovskoi, we had a grand 
 view of all the lofty mountains, perpetually covered with 
 snow, forming the south coast of Siberia, and it is, in- 
 deed, a scene of extreme grandeur ; the evening before 
 anchoring, we had again to perform the sad ceremony of 
 committing to the deep one of our shipmates. He was 
 a great loss to us all. Many a dull, cold, and dreary 
 evening he assisted to pass away. He had many good 
 qualities, with one only sin, which brought him to an 
 early grave. He had lived " a rough life and a merry 
 one." He had now gone to rest — where all must soon 
 follow — as " life is but a span." 
 
 I 
 'II 
 
 I 
 
2 
 
 < 
 
r 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 PETROrAVLOVSKOI. 
 
 A FUNERAL — Ol'K THEATRICALS — THE DANCE — SAN IILAS — OUR MIS- 
 FORTUNE — IMPUDENT INTRUSION— SCfRVY — SANDWICH ISLES 
 
 TABOO OFF. 
 
 " It seems as if these regions by the will 
 Of Heaven transfixed, all at once stood still ; 
 And the proud waves, beneath the fatal blow, 
 Had spread into a field of lifeless snow I " 
 
 Anchored again in safety off the town of Petropav- 
 lovskoi, at the foot of the snow-capped summits of 
 Awatska and Villinchinskoi, which were now found 
 burning and smoking, melting the snow on their sum- 
 mits, and lending to the scene at night an appearance of 
 awe and grandeur. 
 
 The first object that attracted my attention on shore 
 was a child's funeral. The child was placed in a cigar 
 box, garnished with coloured papers, the mother carrying 
 the box, the little brother leading with the lid, the father 
 bringing up the rear, and going along the road at a very 
 brisk pace. These three alone comprised the funeral. 
 Next day the mother died. She had many following 
 her remains, among whom were three priests ; the face 
 
ii'S2 
 
 A FUNERAL. 
 
 of the corpse was left uncovered in the coflfin, so that 
 her friends might see her. All the town followed her to 
 tlie cemetery. 
 
 It was now our turn to show the Kamstchadales how 
 much we appreciated their united efforts on a former 
 occasion to make our visit agreeable. From the Lieut- 
 Governor the largest room in the town was obtained, 
 and furniture, including three fiddles ; for it was feared 
 that the motion of the vessel would spoil the evening's 
 amusement for the ladies. It was our intention to first 
 perform theatricals, and then make the stage into a ball- 
 room, dancing in character. The room was adorned 
 with flags, lanthorns, &c., and sixty names were enrolled 
 on our invitation list. I had endeavoured throughout 
 the day, which was a stirring one for me, to learn a few 
 Kamstchadale words, which might be of use during the 
 evening's amusements ; but when I found out that 
 " pocorum-blodherue " was " thank you," and " devil " 
 was " nine," I gave up all idea of studying the lan- 
 
 guage. 
 
 Long before the appointed hour our frienils com- 
 menced dropping in ; but at seven precisely, the go- 
 vernor and suite arrived, and were seated in the dress 
 l)ox. The national anthem was played, which happily 
 was the same for both nations. The bell rang — prepare ! 
 rang again. The curtain rose ; and there were we, in all 
 shapes, sizes, and dresses, the gaze of a foreign public 
 audience. 
 
 The play, selected from Fielding's most attractive, 
 was commenced. The three first rows of chairs were 
 occupied by the ladies, the gentlemen behind ; and the 
 
OUR THEATRICALS. 
 
 233 
 
 11 
 
 windows of the house, which were low, and purposely 
 left open, were thronged with persons who had never 
 witnessed such a thing before, and most probably never 
 would again. The audience, although not knowing one 
 word we said, evidently understood the plot, and a con- 
 tinued smile was on their pretty faces. Scene after 
 scene pleased them more and more, and their compliment 
 afterwards was very i,'ood ; they said, " There was no oc- 
 casion to know the language, for they could tell by the 
 action what was going on.' A Spanish fandango finished 
 the piece, when the Doctor made a concluding speech in 
 French (which many understood), and, 'mid loud cheers 
 and applause, the curtain dropped. The ladies were 
 handed into the tea-room, and in five minutes our 
 theatre was a ball-room. 
 
 The quadrille formed, our worthy and smiling chief 
 leading off with the Governess, when all others followed. 
 The arrival ol the packet from Otchosk added two belles 
 to the party ; and also were present the three priests 
 and their wives, one of whom was an immense woman. 
 The Governor, seeing I could waltz a little, says, •' Danse 
 avec la grande dame ?" " O yes," says I, " avec beaucoup 
 de plaisir." So myself and Grande Dame had about 
 fifteen romid turns. It resembled much walking round 
 with the capstan ! 
 
 Supper was announced ! They could not imagine 
 where such a spread was obtained. And it surprised 
 the gentlemen to see us eit down the ladies jirat, and 
 provide for them ; here they are kept at a distance. 
 This occasion convinced them (if such was necessary) 
 how high, in our estimation, were those dear objects of 
 
 
234 
 
 THE DANCE. 
 
 i 
 
 man's happiest existence. I must be vain enough to 
 say that I think the ladies gave us credit for it too. 
 
 I was nearly passing over two of my young and 
 amiable friends, and I would never have forgiven myself 
 for so doing. Clarissa and Helena, if they were not the 
 belles, they were the most graceful and lady-like ; it was 
 the latter who kindly put my hair in curl-papers before 
 the theatricals (as I had to perform a lady's part, and re- 
 quired "ringlets") ; and it was her affectionate and kind 
 mamma who made the " bohea," but unfortunately forgot 
 the milk. The gentlemen were left to their suppers, 
 and those who preferred a dance, like myself, commenced 
 again, and were compelled to keep the dances going in 
 quick succession, for, in the intervals, none could talk 
 Russian to their partners, nor they English to us. And, 
 indeed, some often thought it were better we did not, for 
 many a heart may have been found wanting a small por- 
 tion, and many a promise made in haste that could never 
 be fulfilled. We smiled, and they smiled in return, 
 which was sufficient to convey the feeling of a perfect 
 state of happiness on both sides. At three, A.M., after 
 some quick dances, reels, jigs, &c., all parted — not before, 
 however, they had drunk our healths in a bumper of 
 champagne, with an earnest wish for our safe return to 
 their harbour next season ! 
 
 The happy ship was soon off again on another long 
 sea voyage, with a westerly gale after her ; nothing 
 occurred on the passage but a heavy N.VV. gale, which 
 stove our quarter boat, and kept us rolling to such an 
 extent that neither tea nor cocoa could be boiled for some 
 days. We also saw the barren rock of Guadaloupe, and 
 
HAN ULAS. 
 
 235 
 
 
 again arrived at Mazatlau, and found it decidedly im- 
 proved since last visit, merchants returning, and people 
 living a little more at ease. A Chinese hotel had been 
 commenced ; Smithe was still himself, his pins and 
 ginger-beer good, and in constant practice. Wann baths 
 had been erected ; and at almost every other house 
 during the evenings the guitar or piano were heard 
 inviting you to a " tertulia." 
 
 The gold diggings had now been discovered close 
 where we anchored at San Francisco,* and several thou- 
 sands were going there through California. Ships were 
 losing their crews in great numbers, and it was with dif- 
 ficulty we could keep ours together. This hastened our 
 departure, and we sailed, touching at San Bias, but only 
 remaining sufficient time to allow our old and attentive 
 friends the mosquitoes and sand-flies to gather on us and 
 then take them to sea. They were always on the look- 
 out. " When you kill one, twenty will attend the 
 funeral." 
 
 Passing along our old ground, over which we had so 
 often travelled, we arrived at Cape Blanco, and here all 
 thought we were never going to leave it. Calms, light 
 airs, and adverse currents, made us almost stationary, 
 until one Sunday, when we thought we were going to 
 get a squall, all hands were sent aloft to furl the small 
 sails, and, when in the act of rolling up, found it was an 
 immense school of porpoises coming along the water. 
 One impudent fellow on the yard says, " Let us pray, 
 
 * Where the ship anchored in three fathoms, piers were now 
 built, and houses, stores, &c., run out on them. San Francisco 
 is now a city. 
 
236 
 
 OUR MISFOKTUNE. 
 
 May we never be frightened by a shoal of porpoises 
 again." Another, worse, and anxious to quote the Scrip- 
 ture, observed : " The Scripture moveth us in sundry 
 places." "That's not correct," replies Jack, alongside 
 him ; " for last Sunday ut the same hour we had divine 
 service here, and we have not moved from the spot 
 since. I see the same peak and the same bluff/' 
 
 Again drop anchor in Panama Bay 1 Always very 
 unfortunate ! W' e go to one place, and find they are at 
 war, and all gone into the country ; to another, and find 
 them all bound to the diggings ; to a third, and our bills 
 are at a fearful discount ; to a fourth, it is " Lent ;" and 
 now come here, cholera is raging ! No communication 
 with the shore ; no fresh meat ; no vegetables ! Again 
 we had to anticipate the news of twelve months. Our 
 last letters were so full of woe, that we now almost 
 dreaded the arrival of the mail. It will be recollected 
 what fatal news, after several mouths' absence, was 
 brought to us all ; and we now dreaded a repetition. 
 
 Shifting over to Taboga (the isle where all had passed 
 their last evening before sailing for the north), away 
 from cholera and California gold-seekers. Here we 
 found that the man who had kept a small aguadiente 
 shop on our last visit, had just been arrested and carried 
 off to Panama prison, recognised as one of the boat's 
 crew who had murdered our friends at San Francisco, 
 my young friend the pale youth, Montressor, and other 
 officers, and then threw them overboard ! He had mar- 
 ried, and set up a small dram shop at the quiet little 
 isle of Taboga. He now awaits his trial for murder and 
 piracy. 
 
IMPUDKNT INTRTTSION. 
 
 237 
 
 Our visit wjis very short, merely for water, and sailed 
 again on our tour to the Coast of Chiriqui, in Central 
 America. Here, again, we came iu for the season of the 
 northers, which blow with much violence for five suc- 
 cessive (lays ; then a lull ; and then another blow ; and 
 so on. 
 
 The town of Pedrigal, at the Port of David, was 
 visited. It is some distance in the interior, and our 
 arrival very much surprised them all, for the ship had 
 come from Panama, where the cholera was raging, and 
 should have been in quarantine. (A vessel was at that 
 moment at the mouth of the river with the Lord Bishop 
 and many ladies on lx»ard, doing pratique). When 
 the Governor heard of our impudent intrusion (without 
 leave), he was going to imprison us, then to assemble the 
 militia and eject us by force. And this latter we were 
 preparing to repel with sticks and shillelaghs, when it 
 was peaceably and amicably arranged by one of the 
 party handing in a certificate (properly certified before a 
 magistrate) that we had not communicate*! with Panama 
 last This was given to the Governor and grand politico, 
 who were satisfied ! (What will the Bishop say, forty 
 miles off, we thought to ourselves.) 
 
 Pedrigal is a pretty town, having a charming, 
 healthy, climate, a temperature of forty-five degrees, 
 surrounded by ranchas (farms), and cattle innumerable. 
 The people are very hospitable, and had already com- 
 menced making parties for us ; but our time was very 
 short, and could only thank them for their good inten- 
 tions, and then returned through the same intricate and 
 tortuous passage. All mangrove trees ; nothing what- 
 
•238 
 
 SCURVV. 
 
 ever for a guide. Our pilot had already jumped over- 
 board when the boat grounded, not knowing the 
 navigation of the river, and fearing being shot Here 
 we were for once fortunate, and obtained plenty of fresh 
 meat, of which all were greatly in want. The scurvy 
 had already appeared, and the effect on some was such, 
 that on pressing the finger into the flesh of the arms or 
 legs, the flesh would not return to its proper form, but 
 leave an indentation. One man in particular used to 
 amuse himself writing, or rather pressing his name on 
 his arm, and seeing how long it would take to return 
 to its natural form. 
 
 The prospect of the Sandwich Isles now gladdened 
 our hearts, and revived our spirits, and adieu is said to 
 this part of the coast of America, with a real hope of 
 not again seeing it for some time. Already we were 
 beginning to feel the effects of Western America ; the 
 sudden change to the Arctic regions, and the lengthened 
 cruise, all combined, were fast telling on our consti- 
 tutions : but we dare not murmur ; our search mi:>st be 
 continued, and for any of us to leave it, would be to 
 desert a cause in which the whole world were, at that 
 moment, anxiously looking. On leaving this coast, our 
 devoted ship was twenty days in a calm. Nearly three 
 weeks all panting for breath, under a burning sun ; and 
 unless shoals of porpoises, albicore, dolphin, and other 
 fishes had not afforded daily some little amusement in 
 catching them, I don't know what we should have done. 
 The excitement of harpooning these passed away many 
 an hour. 
 
 The moment of our arrival in the heavy rains the ship 
 
SANDWICH ISLES. 
 
 2.S9 
 
 leaked throughout; there was not a dry spot in her; her 
 decks shrunk from the parching suns, and now the rains 
 poured through, and our prayers were constantly for the 
 E.N.E. trades. 
 
 The lofty peak of Owhyhee, the island on which the 
 illustrious navigator. Cook, lost his life, cheered us up, 
 and soon passed Mowee, where cascades falling from 
 high precipices, made it even refreshing to behold. 
 Soon we anchored off the town of Honolulu, on the 
 Island of Woahoa, and in an instant were surrounded 
 by Kanakas imploring " wash clothes ;" "I first man 
 speak a you sar;" "that man not mend hole sar;" in 
 fact, a repetition of the Singapore linen-bleachers and 
 linen-destroyers ! 
 
 The harbour is formed by coral on either side, having 
 but a narrow pasoage through. '1 he ships are towed up 
 to this, and then by lines on shore are warped by 
 numbers of Kanakas to the inner anchorage. 
 
 Our visit here was very short, but, nevertheless, made 
 the very most of, and had an opportunity of seeing the 
 " taboo" taken oflf for a short time, and every girl who 
 is mistress of a dollar borrows or hires a horse, and 
 away they all ride astride for miles in the country, 
 decorated with flowers, and dressed in all gaudy colours. 
 We all get horses as well, and enjoy the ride also, in 
 clouds of dust. First going to Wiatitti, much celebrated 
 for its syllabub, and then to the Par^, vhich is a deep 
 gorge between two hills, having a beautiful waterfall. 
 It was surprising to see how madly the females rode 
 through the country, without guardians ; they love to 
 be on horseback, and their first earnings are always 
 
I'l 
 
 i 
 
 240 
 
 T.VHOO OFF. 
 
 devotod to tlio piirrlmso of n horso (wliich are here 
 cheap), and it Iwcoinos the first piece of household 
 furniture. In tlie evening the "taboo" again com- 
 mences, when all is as quiet as death, not even a sound 
 is heard ! 
 
 A "lewhow" was given by a <;clebrated doctor, but 
 unfortunately all wen^ inidcr sailing orders and could 
 not attend. We have hc^ard they are delightful parties. 
 
 Again, orders arc received for a secntHl voyage north 
 ou - sii ilar erraiul to our last year's cruise ; bidding 
 farev/ell to the residents of Honolulu, leaving the best 
 impresfions on us for their open-hearted, generous, and 
 kind atttiutions. This second voyage commenced with a 
 repetition of our man}' deaths, and the service has to 
 mourn the ioss of a young and promising officer, who 
 met an early death from fever, caused by exposure to a 
 tropical sun. He was but sixteen years of age, and a 
 special favourite. How truly he may be said to have 
 "faded away like grass," which "in the morning is 
 green and groweth up, but in the evening is cut down, 
 dried up. and withered !" 
 
 
 E 
 
 .--.>' 5-- 
 
CHAPTEll III. 
 
 SECOND V()YA(;K noutii. 
 
 KAMSTriliTKA — THK SAI.I-'TK HIIII' ON A H<M-K KXTRAORItlN ABY 
 
 I.ATrnil»i: TIIK UAKRIKK — MAKhNZIK RIVI.K — A H1N«.0\ KKr - - 
 Ut'CKI.ANDRIVKIt — lir<ii: IIONICM — A VI I.I. AtiK- l»AN('l j IIIHTI' 
 
 — TIIK AI'RORA HNARKH — NATIVK IIRAWINtiH t'OHHII.S- THK 
 
 KNII — KKARni. A«'«II»KNT rVT TIIK <'M A IN- IIATTKNKJI I»OV/N 
 
 ItNTIMKI.V hNI). 
 
 The strong N.E. trade soon took us clear of the Sand- 
 wich Isles, and all looked forward to a return there with 
 much pleasure. A long monotonous voyage was again 
 passed through, with scarcely anything to amuse but 
 patching together warm clothing, for another search in 
 the ice. The approach to land was again indicated by 
 logs of drift wood, lummics, dovekies, and a laud bird 
 or two, and the morning following the peninsula of 
 Kamstchatka was seen in all its splendour, corered 
 with snow. A fresh breeze came off the land, bringing 
 numbers of birds to visit us. In the evening it in- 
 creased to a gale, but before morning was again a calm ; 
 and soon after fouud ourselves working up the Bay of 
 Awatska ; anchoring oft* the cemetery, near the pretty 
 little town of Petropavlovskoi. Hero lay a '1 homes 
 Yacht Club schooner, on her way to assist m relieving 
 the Polar Expedition, and as she is now al>out to 
 
 u 
 
242 
 
 THE SALUTE. 
 
 accompany us, I will leave her interesting and stran^rc 
 history for another period, and repair to the shore to see 
 all our young and old friends. 
 
 They are all alivo ! Jolly as " sand boys/' and as 
 good humoured as ever, but much disappointed at 
 finding our ship was to be ofiF so soon a<j;ain. They 
 instantly made us delicious cups of tea, from large bra^is 
 urns, which are constantly hissing and boiling in the 
 centre of the room, vdth a i:ed hot iron heater inside. 
 We had only now, on oivr third visit, found out the 
 Kamstchadale "salute," and were soon apt scholars at it. 
 The gentleman oifers his right cheek to the lady, then his 
 left, then both lips meet — the salute is complete. In tip- 
 top society the gentleman kisses the lady's hand, and 
 then offers his right cheek. At this salute, jirst, Ijeing 
 Irish, I was a little awkward, but it soon grew on me, 
 and I think I performed it as gracefully and as gallantly 
 as my' friends, after a little practice. 
 
 Our stay here was indeed short — How do you do? 
 Good-bye ! in the same breath — but an accident occurred, 
 while working out of the bay, which had well-nigh made 
 us residents for a short period at Petropavlovskoi. 
 
 'i'he ship struck on a rock. Anchors were laid out, 
 but the cables parted ; boats hoisted out ; fresh water 
 pumped out ; and everything done to start her : but sluj 
 was immovable ! Imagine, then, the feelings of a captain 
 under such circumstances ; on such a mission, and to 
 have his ship lost ! 'I'he vessel now burnped heavily ; 
 the false keel and forefoot came up alongside ; every 
 moment all expected a hole in the ship's bottom. Two 
 hours of anxiety were thus passed ; and such a two hours 
 
 4 
 
 „ 
 
 
SHI I* ON A ko<:k. 
 
 243 
 
 to 
 
 »y; 
 
 ery 
 wo 
 Burs 
 
 of susptiDse never cau be forgotten. The slightest swell 
 setting in, we knew the ship must go to pieces that 
 instant. 'I'he tide commenced flowing ; tlie hawsers 
 were again maimed ; " Heave, ye devils I " roared our poor 
 captain ; and, with tears stalling in his eyes for joy, he 
 screeched, " She's oft' ! " We were once more in deep 
 wiiter. 
 
 This circumstance compelled us that night to remain 
 at anchor, fearing the vessel ha«l sprung a leiUc Next 
 day we were off; and, passing through Behring's Strait, 
 we had plenty of company — whale ships of every nation 
 and in every situation, " trying out," " cutting in," 
 "harpooning," &c. — and Ratmanoff and Kruzenstern 
 Islands were passed under more favourable circumstances 
 than on our last cruise, when we so nearly ran on the 
 former in a dense fog. 
 
 At Chamisso Island once more the ship arrived, and 
 we were overjoyed at finding one portion of our lost 
 friends — not, I am sorry to say, a part of the lost " Polar 
 expedition," but our co-operator in the anxious and 
 arduous search in the Arctic Sea. It was with much 
 pleasure we filled our consort with provisions and every- 
 thing she stood in need of. 
 
 Our old friends from Spafarief Inlet came to see us, 
 and to barter their skins and curios for knives and 
 tobacco. They were very friendly, but had no news this 
 time ; and now we were a little cautious, aa their last 
 report was a complete hoax to gain a reward. After 
 minutely examining them, no .strangers had \)oen seoii 
 this season. 
 
 Both .ships started for ley Capo as soon as possible, 
 
 R 2 
 
241 
 
 UTRANUE LATITUDE. 
 
 our friend and consort leading, under a tremendous press 
 of sail, bruising the waters, ploughing tho waves up under 
 her bows, and catching them on her forecastle like a 
 " cup and ball." And here, joined by our Thames Yacht 
 Club schooner, all made a fresh start north, and said 
 within ourselves, " May God preserve us ! " 
 
 All the boats now departed to search every nook and 
 inlet along the shores, to endeavour and trace something 
 of the lost expedition. 
 
 At midnight, all assembled on deck to witness the sun. 
 Semi-diameter above the horizon, it appeared like a 
 "golden ball." Very few have an opportunity of seeing 
 such a sight, and none can imagine the splendour except 
 those who have. We may safely and truly say, the " sun 
 never set." We had now reached the farthest north 
 latitude of any vessel hitherto (Cook, &c.), and next night 
 at midnight obtained the singular fact of a latitude by 
 the meridian altitude of the sun under the Pole, giving 
 the latitude 72" 16' North. Thus :— 
 
 rnfcrior 
 
 Mer. Alt 
 Lat. 
 
 o 
 
 . 1 
 1 
 
 56 30 
 3 57 
 
 52 33 
 15 46 
 
 
 
 Dip. 
 Sdr 
 
 
 1 
 
 ! 
 90 
 
 36 47 
 
 20 20 Cor. 
 
 
 ";6 27 
 
 
 
 91 
 
 lf» 
 
 16 27 
 00 Dec 
 
 
 72 
 
 16 27 
 
 Nor 
 
f 
 
 -J-l 
 
 
 i.-i 
 x 
 
 I— 
 
 O 
 h- 
 
 z 
 
 UJ 
 
 'J 
 
 Cj 
 
 a: 
 a. 
 
 CO 
 
 (-- 
 <t 
 
 
 a. 
 
THK BARRIKR. 
 
 245 
 
 This was so extraordinary and so rare an occurrence, that 
 I quote it in full . — 
 
 " Tlie Arctic sun rose broad above the wave ; 
 
 Thu breeze now sank, now whisjicred from his cave ; 
 As on the .Eolian harp/ his fitful wings 
 Now swell'd, now flutter'd, o'er his ocean strings." 
 
 The whole week was beautifully fine, and we did not 
 progress much, but were visited frequently by baidars of 
 natives, "who embraced and rubbed noses" — not an 
 agreeable process, by any means. They were very friendly, 
 both males and females. The latter were not bad-looking 
 at all, but required to be well scraped and scrubbed 
 before looking passably clean or pleasing. They had no 
 news whatever for us. 
 
 Arrived off the barrier ; and here the scene was 
 lovely in the extreme, sailing through large masses of 
 ice, disturbing walruses and seals ; eider ducks forming 
 in long and curious lines in the air — the walruses 
 grunting and gambolling among the detached pieces of 
 ice, while the males were fighting and slashing the 
 water, extremely jealous of each other. Whales also 
 spouting in every direction. 
 
 Arriving as far north as it was prudent to go, here 
 our boats were sent on a long, dangerous, and hazardous 
 voyage to the Makenzie Kiver, to search the coast on the 
 north of America. At midnight they parted (though 
 quite daylight at the time), and passing under our stem, 
 they had not only " three cheers," but they were cheered 
 till all were hoarse, until there was not another screech 
 left in us. Just as they shoved off, the zodiacal light 
 
246 
 
 MAKEMZIE RIVER. 
 
 II' 
 
 was seen to perfection, casting a purple and greenish 
 shadow or glare over everything, the brightest perpen- 
 dicular ray shooting' about twenty degrees into the 
 heavens. A dense fog soon followed, and we lost sight 
 of pverytliiiig I We heartily wished our explorers suc- 
 cess, for they had to travel 300 miles in open boats. 
 
 Our ship was now close agniiist the pack of ice, like a 
 wall, and through which there appeared no opening 
 whatever. AVc were 100 miles north of Point Barrow, 
 and had sailed (»ut of all published chart*. The sun set 
 this evening both strange and threatening, throwing a 
 glare all round resembling that of copper leaf. 
 
 All the coast of America, and the icy barrier Ijeing 
 searched, stood across to the shores of Asia, passing 
 many dead whales, on which staffs with fla<^s were 
 erected, and holes cut in the animals, in which bottles 
 W(!re inserted, containing notices for thi. guidance of any 
 of the lost expedition. In cutting into these animals, the 
 smell was most sickening. A sailor's stomach is acknow- 
 ledged to be very strong, and proof against all attacks, 
 but this completely overpowered them. Soon after a 
 gale sprung up, which, in this shallow water, agitated 
 the sea very much, several waves breaking completely 
 over the vessel, and wetting everything through ; and 
 now again the effect of cold was severely felt by all ; it 
 penetrated to our very bones. 
 
 We were soon repaid for all this suffering ! there were 
 evident symptoms of an approach to an unknown land, 
 flocks of gulls, divers, young puffins, sandelings, and often 
 land birds like linnets, two of which were so exhausted 
 bhat they were easily taken by the hand. The ice pack 
 
 \ 
 
 
it 
 
 en 
 ed 
 ck 
 
 ♦) 
 
 f 
 
 A DISCOVERY. 
 
 247 
 
 near the American shores was approached, and all our 
 hardships were now fully repaid by the maut head-man 
 singing out as loud as he could roar, " LAND O ! on 
 the lee bow" — a new discovery ! In a few minutes we 
 were all gratified by the sight of two clusters of islands. 
 A party landed on the largest, christened the group, 
 hoisted the Union Jack, and drank her most gracious 
 Majesty's health on acquiring newly-discovered pos- 
 sessions, 'mid the cheers of every one ! The high land 
 observed in the distance is that supposed to be seen by 
 tho natives of Jekan in clear weather from the coast of 
 Asia. 
 
 Again the coast of America was reached, passing 
 another whuio which had died *' on its eye" eight or ten 
 days since ; the nose had fallen away, exposing the 
 tongue, which was about the size of a ship's dinghy ; 
 the carcase was about ninety feet in length, and still 
 capable of producing twenty barrels of oil. Steps 
 were cut into it to ascend by, for placing a staff with 
 flag and bottle with notice. We had to hold our noses 
 most tightly while doing so ; the smell was horrible ! 
 and would capsize the equilibrium of any stomach, how- 
 ever strong ! On reaching the coast natives again 
 came off. These smoked pipes through the holes (cut 
 for ornaments) in their checks. The women bartered 
 their furs freely, taking them off their own bodies to 
 do so, exhibiting not the slightest modesty. After their 
 boats were emptied for knives, tobacco, &c., they 
 returned to the shore highly pleased. 
 
 Again we had to undergo ancther gale, in which 
 three guns were dismounted from the violence of the 
 
^ 
 
 248 
 
 liUCKLAND RIVKU. 
 
 sea, and all the boats had to be hoisted in ; it was very 
 severe, and the cold and wet almost rendered us power- 
 less. The carcases of five whales were passed in one 
 day, convincing us that even for them the severity of 
 the Arctic regions was too much. Some had died on 
 their backs, some on their eye, swelling to an immense 
 size. All the searching squadron were again safely 
 anchored in Kotzebue Sound. Every spot had been 
 searched, and no traces or intelligence of our unhappy 
 countrymen. 
 
 All the boats now formed a most interesting flotilla to 
 explore a river running many miles into the interior. 
 The weather being moderately fire, and many natives 
 living on the banks, a few days passed in a most agree- 
 able cruise, but ended in obtaining no information 
 whatever concerning our missing countrymen. 
 
 < 
 
 EXPLORE THE BUCKLAND lUVER. 
 
 As this cruise was attended with many interesting 
 Arctic scenes, it is deserving of a chapter to itself. 
 
 The expedition consisted of six Itoats, well armed and 
 provisioned for eight days, having with us two native 
 kyaks for pilots and a Russian interpreter. The day 
 was cloudy, but every appearance of fine weather ; the 
 wind light in our favour, but soon failed^ aad the tide 
 beginning to flow assisted the oars. 
 
 Passing through Escholtz bay, and along the curious 
 ico clifls which contain the great bones of the mastadon 
 and Siberian ox — huge animals long since extinct. These 
 
HUOE HONES. 
 
 249 
 
 qIUXh are dark masses uf alternate ItiyerH of ice and clay, 
 containing decomposed auiuml matter, and emitting an 
 earthy and sickly effluvia, not at all agreeable ; here and 
 there a huge mass standing apart and erect by itself, 
 but gradually thawing and trickling down its sides, 
 forming a mud flat underneath for the only passage 
 along the foot of these hills, which, from its softness was 
 both tiresome and unpleasant to wade through. 
 
 Anchored for the night off " Elephant Point," whore 
 there were evident signs of the natives having recently 
 left ; the skin and antlers of the deer were still fresh, as 
 well as the skulls and vertebra of the porpoise off which 
 tliey had been feeding. 
 
 Having an hour to spare bef«)re closing our awnings 
 for the night, strolled along the ice cliffs up to our knees 
 in nmd, roots, and decomposed matter. They had 
 undergone much change since our lost visit, and were 
 now visibly crumbling into decay. Two molar teeth and 
 a few bones were found ; one of the former I could just 
 carry on my shoulders. (It was intended for the Dublin 
 Museum, where I believe it now is.) Darkness setting 
 in quickly obliged us to return to our boats ; the tents 
 were pitched, and all assembled around a venison pie, 
 to cut our names in it. A light north wind sprung 
 up, the moon rose, and a lovely night was the ecu- 
 sequence. 
 
 Our Esquimaux pilots amused us very much until 
 near eleven o'clock with singing and dancing. Their 
 song, as nearly as I can recollect, was, "HawS. — hawy& — 
 hoya — hoia, — whoop," the latter accompanied by a scream 
 and jump, the action of the dance imitative no doubt of 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
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 Sdeiices 
 
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 ■i3 weST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEE.&fER,N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716)872-4503 
 

250 
 
 A VILLAGE. 
 
 If, 
 
 sun 
 
 4 !■■'! 
 
 a severe struggle with a walrus, or deer; those who 
 made the loudest " whoop" and the highest leap at the 
 finale, were considered the best dancers. 
 
 The boats hauled off and anchored in deep water, 
 the rain awnings were spread, and a most comfortable 
 night passed ; but it was a strange feeling to us all 
 being out of eight of our vessel, having passed more 
 than four years and a half in her. 
 
 At day-dawn (S'-tO A.M.) started with the beginning of 
 the flood tide, having a pleasant breeze from the east- 
 ward, freshening as the sun rose. There was much 
 difficulty in finding a channel over the bar of the river 
 for the boats, and it occupied all the day in getting them 
 safely through, after which anchored off the village of 
 Neitawigmeot, consisting of about eleven erangs and 
 sixty natives, eight baidars and twenty kyaks ; but 
 before many minutes had elapsed, there were many new 
 arrivals, and the village increased to seventeen erangs, 
 natives with their families arriving in the baidars ; they 
 were on their way to the Salmon River, to take their 
 winter stock, but pitched here for the present, and when 
 visited by us on shore they were regaling themselves on 
 three seals they had lately taken ; the intestines were 
 blown out and spread along the bushes to dry, many 
 yards in length for holding oil ; the blubber was boiling 
 down to grease their baidars with, the remainder was 
 cooked for present use ; the children had small raw 
 strips given them by their mothers, at which they were 
 tugging and sucking with evident pleasure and satis- 
 faction. 
 
 Next morning the village had increased to twenty-two 
 
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 251 
 
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 erangs ; the natives numbered about 120. They had an 
 adze and saw in their possession, which they said had 
 been obtained from a Kussian not a very great distance 
 from them, who is annually visited by a party from a 
 Bussian fur establishment, with provisions and articles 
 for barter, which is carried on with these people for 
 furs, &c. 
 
 During the dusk of the evening all went on shore. The 
 natives commenced dancing, all the singers formed in a 
 semicircle, the three performers being two men and a 
 girl. The words of the song were the same as before 
 described, with the addition of a very musical tam- 
 bourine, struck occasionally with a light stick, the 
 children chiming in with their tenor voices, and alto- 
 gether a most novel and amusing scene. When the 
 men gave a " whoop" they would spring up and see who 
 could jump the highest, bringing their toes almost to 
 their chin, and then, springing across the whole length 
 of the circle, would come to a dead halt, evidently 
 fatigued and profusely perspiring ! Many such dances 
 were good-naturedly performed for our amusement, and 
 it really was hard work, but I have not the power to 
 describe them in the way they were exhibited. 
 
 Next evening a "jumping match" was arranged. In 
 the long jumps we were beaten by FOUR feet, and we 
 had some active fellows amongst our crew ; but in liigh 
 leaps beat them. One native jumped (by measurement) 
 nineteen feet on a sandy beach ; they were active, mus- 
 cular fellows, full of frolic and fun, having no care, 
 nothing to think of, but the period when they are to 
 return to their winter *' yourts." 
 
I 
 
 I . 
 
 252 
 
 A BIRTH, 
 
 
 
 During our rambles on shore we witnessed a most 
 strangfi occurrence. Under a bush not very far from 
 the village was a woman evidently in the pains of 
 labour, or, to express it more feelingly, iu an " interesting 
 condition/' She was lying on a ileer skin, with no 
 covering whatever over her head, her husband sitting a 
 few yards oflf with a little girl on his knee, apparently 
 quite unconcerned. Next morning, having occasion to 
 walk the same road, the poor woman was still there, 
 having given birth to a fine child ! She had been out 
 all that night without a covering (the theryiometer at 
 freezing point), a thick white frost on the ground, and it 
 was most jntiable to see her. But such is their custom. 
 M'hen near that interesting period the house or erang is 
 shut up, and all the family retire to the bush until the 
 event is over, when they again return to their dwelling. 
 I do not know what they do in the winter under such 
 circumstances — it was now summer. 
 
 All the boats huddled together for the night, and it 
 was impossible that a more serene and beautiful one 
 could be, not a breath of air, scarcely a cloud to be seen, 
 and the moon just peeping over the hill, at the foot of 
 which stood the village. 
 
 These few people deserve a word of praise. Friend- 
 ship would hardly convey the manner in which they 
 mixed with us, as if they had known us for years ; all 
 day they were coming off and on to the boats to smoke 
 their pipes and have a " bit of frn." As for theft, I do 
 not think they knew the meaning of the word ; they 
 were not even inquisitive in their frequent visits, and 
 often appeared to feel as if intruding. 
 
 «a i 
 
 fdi 
 
TlfK AURORA. 
 
 253 
 
 ley 
 Lnd 
 
 Not very long after retiring for the night, we were 
 " roused up" to see the " Aurora BoreaUs" in all its 
 splendour. To me who had not before witnessed it, it 
 was a scene of awful grandeur ; two horizontal waves of 
 yellow flame rolled over each other, forming an arch 
 from which shot towards the zenith innumerable co- 
 ruscations of liquid fire ; it stretched from Ursa Major 
 to the Pleiades, and underneath the arch was a dark 
 mass, having in the centre the moon. The sky was 
 perfectly cloudless. 
 
 The measured angle subtended by the arch was 122 
 degrees, and the elevation of the arch 38 degrees. It 
 was appropriately likened to the folds of a curtain 
 thrown over the brass arms at either side. It was the 
 grandest celestial scene I ever witnessed, and a feeling 
 of awe came over me when I first beheld it. " How 
 marvellous are Thy works !" thought I, whiie contem- 
 plating this stupendous scene. 
 
 " The heavens indeed declare the glory of God, and 
 the firmament showeth his handy work," I thought, as 
 my mind became overwhelmed with admiration. 
 
 All again started at daylight, leaving our village 
 friends behind, passing some storehouses in which the 
 natives place their winter stock, to protect them from 
 wolves and foxes, which crowd on the beach during 
 night. 
 
 The river now began to get most interesting, and the 
 scenery attractive. The tide favouring us, we did all in 
 our power to ascend quickly ; trees were getting thicker 
 and more lofty. The entrance of the river commenced 
 with grass and low stunted bushes ; then shrubs about 
 
254 
 
 SNARES. 
 
 
 the size of a gooseberry tree, a species of dwarf beech 
 and willow, and now trees as lofty as apple-trees were 
 around us. The river narrow and the water quite fresh ; 
 the same stoi-ehouses ',vere now seen in many places, and 
 on every prominent point was found a " bird trap," 
 formed of the branch of a tree, with a whalebone or 
 running noose of sinew, and many an unfortunate owl 
 or hawk I rescued from them. Nearly every trap con- 
 tained a bird, some still alive, caught onlj by the leg or 
 wing-feathers. These traps are made of two upright 
 springs, having a roost across lashed on an elevated pole ; 
 across these two twigs a strong sinew is secured, having 
 three nooses of whalebone hitched to it ; the running 
 nooses are then overhauled, and the slightest touch 
 closes them ; these are also set on branches of shrubs 
 that lie in the tracks of hares, wolves, and foxes. 
 
 The brushwood was now almost impenetrable, and 
 the banks composed of dark soil easily washed away 
 by the river during hej,vy rains ; in the interior, level 
 country interspersed w:Lth lagoons. 
 
 At night the aurora burst forth again in grandeur 
 about twe ^^y degrees more to the eastward; the corus- 
 cations were in the same direction, but shooting at 
 more distant intervals, more sudden and separated ; two 
 horizontal beams arched, suddenly dropping as if cut off 
 by the coruscations at right angles to the beams. As 
 night approached it changed into all manner of fan- 
 tastic shapes, moving in beams and masses to the north 
 and east, giving forth a brilliant light. 
 
 The large boats had now reached as far as was prac- 
 ticable ; any further advance would endanger their being 
 
 

 . » 
 

 ■1 
 
 ':• ! 
 
 UJ 
 
 cc 
 
 X 
 
 < 
 
 < 
 
 or 
 cf) 
 
 LJ 
 
 J 
 
 
 i« if 
 

 I 
 
 NATIVl. URAWINCJS. 
 
 255 
 
 left behind ; so the small boats still advanced, a few 
 pine trees were seen lying among the long grass, 
 about eight to twelve feet long, and the timber growing 
 on the banks were twelve to eighteen inches in dia- 
 meter. A shooting party was made up, and although 
 away all night returned disappointed. 
 
 The small boats on arriving at the " Falls," met an 
 old man, a woman and boy, who* were watching some 
 fish houses ; presents were given to them, which recon- 
 ciled them to so unusual a sight. 
 
 On our passage down the river the boats grounded many 
 times, and on arriving near the village were met by our 
 old friends in five kyaks, who on seeing us lifted their 
 paddles, spread their arms and rubbed their " victualling 
 offices ;" we did the same, and friendship was recog- 
 nised. They came on board and rubbed noses (not a 
 pleasant salutation), smoked pipes and danced ; we were 
 then aground, and a few more kyaks having joined, an 
 anchor was laid out and the hawser manned, a tin 
 fiddle was tuned to concert pitch, a lively air struck 
 up, and the boat gradually came off; for every length 
 of the warp obtained they had their pipes filled, and 
 when anchored in deep water, four blue beads each as 
 a reward, they were highly delighted ! During the 
 intervals I made one of them sketch the game which 
 was hanging on the yard, consisting of hares, geese, 
 duck, ptarmigan, &c., and the following are fac-similes, 
 but invariably (I could not tell why) upside down. 
 
 Alter arriving about fifty miles above where the 
 large boats parted, the fur trees increased in size and 
 height as they ascended, but the river diminished in 
 
 
■If i 
 
 I' 
 
 ^'|. 
 
 m 
 
 n. ' 
 
 I 
 
 2".G 
 
 FOSSILS. 
 
 
 ilcpili, and the Itoats liad t(» Im' hauled (»vor the \'i\\U, 
 on many occasions hav'iig only six to oight inchos of 
 water. Kere on each side of the river were high 
 basaltic columns of granite forming a passage for the 
 river, the tops c( vered with shrubs and dwarf trees ; 
 at almost every roaob there was a rapid or fall of about 
 eight inches to two feet. 
 
 On arriving oflf the village, the kyaks parted, and 
 none of the natives could be persua<1ed ^o accompany us 
 to tbe ship, even with promises of axes, beads, knives, 
 and tobacco. Their wives, families, and winter stock, 
 appeared their first consideration. 
 
 On anchoring off the ice-cliffs, several erangs were 
 seen, and about twenty natives on the spot where re- 
 mains of deer and porpoises had been met with They 
 made no approach ; and it was too late for us to pay 
 them a visit, which we regretted extremely. 
 
 The weather was now assuming a rapid change, gloomy 
 on all sides, which hurried our return ; indeed, we could 
 hardly expect more fine weather after the lovely eight 
 days we had experienced. 
 
 Early weighed, and, on passing a sand-spit, saw a few 
 more erangs. None were yet moving, and we gave them 
 a passing "He he — he he — he." They were fast asleep. 
 A few dogs outside the tents scratching themselves. 
 
 Anchoring off Elephant Point, where our first evening 
 was passed, a party prepared for " fossil digging." After 
 an early breakfast, and preparation for a " mud lark," I 
 headed a small party. Scarcely a bone was to be found, 
 although search was made, and the face of the cliff dug 
 out with shovels. Our successful collection twelve 
 
 
 // 
 
 "'Mt 
 
TIIK END. 
 
 ii')7 
 
 t 1 
 
 nioiitlis since had left nothing for us now. And iWia 
 convinced us tiiat a number of years must elapse to thaw 
 and d(. cay the ice and soil to enable the bones to collect 
 on the surface of the mud ; and it would occupy no 
 short period of summer months to melt the huge masses 
 of ice that existed there. The wash of the sea-water 
 appeared to be th- greatest cause of its falling; being 
 undermined by it in many places to a considerable ex- 
 tent. A few bones, three molar teeth, and the horn of 
 an ox, were the only rewards we had among us all. A 
 dead wolf was seen ensnared in one of the traps I have 
 before described. 
 
 The boats assembled together, anf' "U started for the 
 ship, really regretting that this unusual!} interesting trip 
 was at an end. Everything had favour^ \ us for eight days, 
 the weather delightful, and our bopts comfortable ; and we 
 were only sorry that this search was not attended with 
 the slightest trace that would thrx)w a light on the fate 
 of our lost counirymen and brother officers. 
 
 Our arrival was hardly announced before it com- 
 menced blowing and raining, bringing most unpleasant 
 and boisterous weather, leaving scarcely time to clear 
 the boats and hoist them out of danger. 
 
 img 
 ifter 
 " I 
 md, 
 ^ug 
 jlve 
 
 We were now flattering oursejves that this, our second 
 voyage north, was to finish without a mishap, when a 
 deplorable accident occurred which threw a gloom over 
 the whole community. 
 
 As we were on the eve of parting, and it being Sun- 
 
 s 
 
 T'^^itd 
 
258 
 
 FEARFUL ACCIDENT, 
 
 ll . 
 
 i 
 
 
 :,(; 
 
 
 i 
 
 day evening, many of the ships' crews visited each other 
 to say farewell, perhaps for ever ! But as the last boat 
 v.as returning, by some unfortunate and inexplicable 
 circumstance, one of the men fell overboard. He re- 
 mained above water several minutes, and, by some mys- 
 terious mismanagement, those in the boat could not save 
 him, and he sank in only six feet water. He was buried 
 next day, but we could never ascertain the real facts of 
 this unfortunate occurrence. It was clouded in mystery. 
 Ihe severities of winter now again hinted to us to 
 depart. U'he gales blew strong from N.W., with hail 
 and snow ; and it was with some difficulty the ship was 
 got out of the sound. The same gale concentrating in 
 Behring's Strait, as it were through a funnel, again 
 fairly blew us out; the land on all sides frequently hid 
 by snow and hail-storms. Our backs were turned on the 
 straits, we had almost hoped for ever! We had now 
 passed some months in it, mid gales of wind, and ice ; 
 had assisted all in our power those placed under our care ; 
 had also discovered islands, and perhaps a continent ; 
 ihe barrier of ice had been traced from the shores of 
 America to those of Asia ; we had gained the farthest 
 north latitude of any ship known, as well as sailed the 
 farthest west ; a shoal had also been found in the Arctic 
 Sea; our whale boats had gone a distance of three hun- 
 dred miles to the Mackenzie River; and, finally, the 
 whole shores of America have been searched, including 
 rivers running fifty to sixty miles in the interior ; and if 
 Sir John Franklin or any of the lost expedition were 
 there, we would have found them also ! 1 herefore we 
 left the straits this season, knowing well all was done 
 
!h other 
 ast boat 
 plicable 
 He ro- 
 ue mys- 
 not save 
 ,s buried 
 facts of 
 mystery, 
 to us to 
 vith hail 
 ship was 
 rating in 
 3I, again 
 pntly hid 
 3d on the 
 had now 
 and ice ; 
 our care ; 
 ontinent ; 
 shores of 
 3 farthest 
 lailed the 
 he Arctic 
 bree hun- 
 aally, the 
 including 
 )r ; and if 
 tion were 
 jrefore we 
 was done 
 
 X 
 
 9 
 
 CO 
 
il 
 
CUT THE CHAIN. 
 
 2r.9 
 
 that possibly could be accomplished, and passed safely 
 through the Seguam Passage of the Aleoutian Isles, 
 near Amoutcha and the " Island of the Four Moons." It 
 was a beautiful sight as the vessel " cut the chain/' the 
 whole being covered with snow. 
 
 There was scarcely time to congratulate ourselves on 
 getting clear of the straits, when the ship was overtaken 
 by a furious gale from the north, Sunday night was an 
 awful one, and the vessel had to lay to. The seas rushed 
 through the rudder coat and through the gun-room, and 
 the order was given to batten down. The main trysail 
 was even found to be too much sail for the ship; and such 
 was the fury of the wind, that it occupied all hands two 
 hours to take it in and close reef it. Next day it had 
 not moderated, and the gusts and squalls were terrific. 
 A sea struck the ship abeam, and washed away all the 
 waist netting (like paper stuff), bDth gangways, and ibur 
 upper deck ports ; and it was some minutes before Ave 
 could recover self-possession after the shock to see if any 
 further serious damage had b-^en done. Several seas 
 struck her after this, going completely over all, without 
 any apparent effect except shaking the chains much. 
 
 Once more " bore up," the barometer at 28° 97', and 
 congratulated ourselves on again escaping the fury of the 
 storm, and offering our humble thanks to Him who 
 alone " can still -he raging of the sea ;" for there were 
 moments many o us thought oar last, in which it ap- 
 peared impossible that the timbers could resist the fury 
 of the waves. " We were carried up to heaven, and down 
 again to the deep ; our souis melted within us." 
 
 IVo lovely days foliowod, and then, as if to mock 
 
 s 2 
 
2G0 
 
 RATTENEI DOWN. 
 
 
 them, a correspouding gale to that from the north 
 followed from the south ; we lay to under stormsails 
 and battened the ship down, trusting in Him Avho has 
 but to say, " Peace, be still," and there will immediately 
 " be a calm." 
 
 Passing not far from San Francisco, but which we 
 were afraid to enter from the disposition of the men 
 to leave the ship for the gold diggings, came down the 
 coast of Western America, close to Guadaloupe and 
 Magdalena bay, anchoring once more in safety in the 
 pretty harbour of Mazatlan ! 
 
 Again, as is our usual fortune, find the cholera 
 raging here, so much so, that fresh supplies of beef 
 and vegetables are not permitted on board. 
 
 Our companion in Behring's Strait, the Thames Yacht 
 schooner, arrives a day or two before us ; and with 
 grief it will be read that he who had so liberally spent 
 his time, his money, and hazarded his life in so humane 
 a cause, should now be snatched from us by cruel 
 death ! The sudden change from heat to cold, and 
 then from a thermometer of 27° to 104!°, a difference 
 of seventy-seven degrees, was more than the human 
 frame could withstand, and he sank under the effects, 
 universally and deeply regretted and beloved by all. 
 He was buried at Mazatlan ; all followed his remains 
 to the grave ; they were placed in the Protestant burial- 
 ground alongside those of the Consul's daughter, who 
 had Ijttely died of fever. 
 
 " Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord." 
 
 His property, "ten thousand a year," was already 
 settled on his aunt, and he had only sufficient power 
 
 
UNTIMELY END. 
 
 261 
 
 north 
 rmsails 
 ho has 
 idiately 
 
 lich we 
 he men 
 3wn the 
 ipe and 
 in the 
 
 cholera 
 of heef 
 
 es Yacht 
 nd with 
 [ly spent 
 humane 
 )y cruel 
 3ld, and 
 ifference 
 human 
 i effects, 
 by all. 
 remains 
 t burial- 
 ter, who 
 
 on his death-bed to express a wish "that the yacht 
 may be sent to its builder in England." 
 
 Steamers are constantly arriving from all parts of 
 the world laden with persons " go ng to the diggings." 
 Many thousands are also coming overland from America 
 on mules, bound to San Francisco through California, 
 incurring great hardships and privations. 
 
 As there were no attractions here for us, our stay 
 was as short as possible. Water was completed on the 
 opposite side of the Gulf of California, and sail made 
 f Guaymas, the sea-port of Mexico, leaving at 
 Mazailan one of the handsomest razee frigates in her 
 Majesty's service, commanded by one of the most open, 
 good-hearted, generous, and beloved men, extremely 
 kind to his officers, ar d adored by his ship's company. 
 However, there was : o occasion for jealousy ; on our 
 part we were fortunate in having one very much of 
 the same stamp and disposition. 
 
 already 
 it power 
 
■f S 
 
 i 
 
 11 
 
 CHAl'TER IV. 
 
 S 
 
 t 
 
 ■ i 
 
 'k>. 
 
 GUAYM.AS KVENING AMl.'SEMENTS — THE DIOGINOS SMUGGMNG 
 
 TIIJ. n-AZA— FIRSI" BAM. OUR liAM. — MAZATLAN IN TEARS 
 
 SIlll' VISITING THE CAS A VUERTE. 
 
 GUAYMAS, in the gulf of California, is the principal 
 seaport of Mexico ; it is a sort of Brighton or Hastings 
 to London ; it is here many come to inhale the pure 
 sea hreeze after the burning and dusty city of Mexico. 
 This, however, a passer-by would not expect ; for to us 
 the to WD appeared a desolate, barren, sun-burnt spot, 
 without a hope of seeing or meeting any one to whom 
 we cou'd open our hearts, and chill them with our icy 
 adventures. Towards the latter part of our visit it will 
 be seen how this scene was changed, and how wrong it 
 was to condemn a' place by its outward appearance. 
 
 This was the holiday season here, and the Plaza was 
 nightly the scene of dancing and gambling. A shed on 
 a large scale was erected over the Plaza, and under this 
 dancing was carried on until two or three in the 
 morning ; an Indian in one corner dancing alternately 
 the pascola, the jaraby, and other Indian dances with the 
 " caskavales" on his ankles. This shed was surrounded 
 by booths and montd tables, at which nearly all 
 
 ii 
 
 m 
 
EVENING AMUSEMENTS. 
 
 263 
 
 r.MNG — 
 TKAHS 
 
 rincipal 
 [astings 
 lie pure 
 Mexico. 
 3r to us 
 t spot, 
 whom 
 [our icy 
 t it will 
 Irong it 
 le. 
 
 |aza was 
 slied oil 
 ler this 
 in the 
 ^rnately 
 rith the 
 i-ouucled 
 irly all 
 
 Guaymas paraded ; it had much the appearance of a 
 fair, and here ,ve frequently found ourselves prome- 
 nading until fortunately more natural, more sociable, 
 and more agreeable amusements attracted us. 
 
 Gambling in these booths was carried on to a melan- 
 choly extent, and many a life was sacrificed after all the 
 rest had been lost ; some of the mont6 tables were 
 actually conducted by females, and it was truly heart- 
 rending to see their excited and uncontrollable feelings 
 when ither winning or losing dollars and doubloons in 
 fives, tens, and twenties. 
 
 Robberies and murders were acted nightly by the 
 Mexican marauders, and it was quite dangerous to pass 
 through the streets alone or without firearms, after 
 the mass of persons had retired, although the serenos 
 were constantly on the watch. These robberies took place 
 directly under their musquets ! 
 
 The " nacimientos" were the prettie L and most inno- 
 cent dances I have seen ; three or four houses, with 
 large rooms, were each evening decorated and devoted to 
 these juvenile entertainments. About twenty little 
 Indian girls, beautifully dressed and adorned in ribbons 
 and flowers, danced their native dance, having a rattle 
 in one hand, and a plume of coloured feathers in the 
 other. These all went together like clockwork ; not one 
 could have been more than twelve years of age, and 
 exactly like dolls. Another dance, which I could not as- 
 certain the name of, but which I call the " barber's pole" 
 dance, was still prettier ; each girl took a riband of 
 different colours suspended from the top of a high pole, 
 and danced round it in such a manner that the ribands 
 
 i 
 
jm -s m' 
 
 264 
 
 THE DIGGINGS. 
 
 ?:.'T i 
 
 U i 
 
 laid themselves on the pole in tho nicest patterns 
 imaginable; the dance was then reversed, and the ribands 
 unlaid ; they sang their own music, and the choruses 
 were very sweet. These lasted two or three hours each 
 night, and they were both astonished and glad to see 
 naval officers occasionally intrude on their juvenile 
 amusements. 
 
 Society was a little disorganized, as many parties were 
 forming to start for the diggings through California ; 
 the numbers from Guaymas alone were estimated at 
 5,000, from Petic 5,000,from Loretto 5,000, from Yackie 
 5,000 ; all were to travel on mules, and each having a 
 spare one to carry his provisions, or in case of a break 
 down. They intend to pass the Colerado river at the 
 head of the gulf, and across the sandy plains, which is 
 indeed a case of life or death. If anything happens to 
 your mule you are gone to a certainty, and the sands 
 are already covered with the bleached bones of those 
 who have left all they possessed for the chance of finding 
 gold in California. 
 
 We could not help witnessing, on many occasions, the 
 manner in which the government is duped. One or 
 two illustrations will suffice for this. A brig had arrived 
 with a cargo of "rcnv cotton," an article strictly pro- 
 hibited by the customs. The officers go on board and 
 seize the ship: the captain says, "Very well, but before 
 you do so, will you have the goodness to read that V 
 This is a permit to land his cargo, from one of the 
 principal merchants of the city of Mexico. The cargo is 
 forthwith landed. About 1,000 dollars has done this. 
 Vessels have arrived off tlje port, the clerks of the 
 
 i I 
 
SMUOGLINQ. 
 
 265 
 
 itterns 
 ibands 
 loruses 
 rs each 
 to see 
 iivenile 
 
 DS were 
 fornia ; 
 ited at 
 Yackie 
 iving a 
 I break 
 • at the 
 hich is 
 pens to 
 3 sands 
 >f those 
 finding 
 
 3ns, the 
 One or 
 arrived 
 ,ly pro- 
 rd and 
 before 
 that?" 
 of the 
 cargo is 
 le this, 
 of the 
 
 houses to whom they are consigned have gone on board, 
 and actually made out false bills of lading, calling 
 500 bales 250, half of which is landed on the sly, and 
 the other paid duty for. Another goes to the adminis- 
 trador of the customs, and says, " I have a cargo to 
 land ; there are about 500 bales, but with a little trouble 
 Jr can have them made up into four in a bale ; now I'll 
 give you 4,000 dollars (which is the duty on 125 
 bales)." " Very good," says the admiuistrador, and the 
 bargain closes. I'he customs make 2,000 dollars, and 
 send the other 2,000 to the city, and the merchant 
 makes, or rather saves, 2,000 more, and thus work into 
 each other's hands. Half a vessel's cargo had been 
 landed (in our presence) by her own boats, while the 
 custom-house officers, had been purposely invited to a 
 ball, and liberally treated. No one knew anything of 
 the occurrence but a few of ourselves, who could not 
 avoid seeing it. These are every day occurrences, and 
 thought nothing of. If the governor is inclined to be 
 " rusty," a petition is sent to head quarters, and he is 
 immediately recalled, and a more worthy takes his 
 place. 
 
 The climate of Guaymas is healthy, and delightfully 
 cool, sometimes too much so, at night ; the dew very 
 heavy, sufficiently so to lay the dust completely for the 
 coming day ; the sea breeze sets in regularly between ten 
 and eleven in the forenoon, dying away again at five, six, 
 or sun-set ; this is the cool and pleasant season (January 
 and February), but the residents look forward with 
 dread to the summer months, June, July, August, when 
 the heat they say is insufferable, and no person, male or 
 
 

 P. 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 9(;(; 
 
 
 
 
 THE 
 
 PLAZA. 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 1' I. 
 
 old 
 .i. 1.- 
 
 or 
 
 young, 
 
 dare 
 i_ 
 
 venture 
 
 1 _:ii 
 
 to 
 
 sleep 
 
 under the 
 
 aU- 
 
 roof, but bring tlieir mats and pillows into the veran- 
 dahs. The day is passed in bathing ! 
 
 Nearly a month had passed away in a most idle, tire- 
 some, and unprofitable manner. The scenes at the 
 Plaza were at an end. The feast-days and nacimientos 
 of the new year had passed by. We were tired of the 
 sameness, constantly walking round the booths twenty 
 or thirty times a night, and many of us now almost 
 declared we would never go on shore again, when wo 
 reflected and concluded that as our stay here was to be 
 longer than anticipated, there were still means of pass- 
 ing some really pleasant and agreeable evenings ; for wo 
 did not pass up and down that noisy Plaza without 
 noticing the light hair and light blue eyes of many a 
 pretty and attractive face. Many a smile was inter- 
 changed, but our innate bashfulness would not permit of 
 our introducing ourselves; although I must do the 
 Spanish credit for not requiring such extreme formality, 
 yet we never could sum up resolution sufficient to say 
 (in the streets) " a los pieds de usted senorita." 
 
 We unanimously decided that the only way to com- 
 mence an acquaintanceship was to give a general ball. 
 Those then who wished our friendship would come; 
 those who did not would stay away. Scarcely had 
 we matured our plans -!:en invitations from the resi- 
 dent merchants came off to invite us to a ball on shore. 
 Nothing could have happened more opportunely for us. 
 We should get an insight into their manners, customs, 
 habits, &c. ; what they liked, and what they disliked ; 
 it was delightful ! 
 
THE FIRST HALL. 
 
 2(17 
 
 corn- 
 ball 
 
 orae; 
 had 
 resi- 
 lore. 
 us. 
 
 ^oms, 
 :ed ; 
 
 Tlio ball was iiidood a trout — all went — and all, 1 mod 
 scarcely add, enjoyed themselvos, and it snrprised us to 
 see so many pretty, pleasing faces continually entering ; 
 where they came from, we could not imagine. Surely, 
 we thought, Guaymas could not contain all. 
 
 Besides our dances of quadrilles, waltzes, polkas, and 
 country dances, the pascola, the jaraby, and venado 
 (Indian dances) were gone through, and amusod us 
 much, especially the latter, which was danced in part by 
 a very fat gentleman ! It is a very curious dance, by a 
 lady and gentleman, but I do not thinV it would be 
 popular in our drawing-rooms ; it is illustrative of a 
 " deer-hunt." 
 
 The supper was a grand one, and champagne without 
 any limit. Some offended ladies, who imagined they 
 bad not sufficient attention shown them, departed 
 directly after supper; the little Mexican pride was 
 plainly visible ! This was acknowledged ihe fault of the 
 committee, who, not expecting so many, their numbers 
 were insufficient ; hence the unintentional slights ! 
 
 Dancing was continued imtil three in the morning! 
 The smallness of the room was the only drawback. 
 Those who did not dance stood in the centre, while the 
 dancing continued around them. There were many 
 belles ! we could not individualize any; but those most 
 justly admired were the Casa Fuertes (4), the Serpent, 
 Veiiados, and the Amber Satins (2) ; these are names 
 given them by the mids., for the present, until better 
 acquainted. They dressed neatly and costly, with 
 jewelry. in great profusion. We parted that evening 
 with a full realization of all the talcs of romance which 
 
 I 
 
268 
 
 OUH HALL. 
 
 we liad heard and read for the last five years, concerning 
 the " fair Mexicans ! " 
 
 Our ball next followed, but we had so many now to 
 invite, that instead of having it on board ship, it was 
 concluded it should be on shore, on a smooth and 
 sheltered point, not far from the town, and a convenient 
 distance for the boats. Sixty families and forty single 
 persons were invited. 
 
 It occupied one week to erect a dancing booth, sixty 
 feet by thirty, a supper tent, a ladies' tent, and a stew- 
 ard's apartment. All that a ship could afford was 
 devoted to making these as perfect as possible ; but the 
 night preceding the ball a gale came on, and threatened 
 to tear everything from its foundation. Fortunately, 
 nothing very serious happened ; but all were in bodily 
 fear that the tents would have ascended like so many 
 balloons. Next morning, however, all was secured 
 again. «. 
 
 The day was cool, calm, and beautiful. All the 
 tents were railed in by boarding-pikes, with lines having 
 a boat's flag flying on each, and an avenue formed from 
 the landing-place, of orange branches, lined with lamps, 
 to the entrance of the grand saloon, all protected by 
 sentries, for many had already walked from the town to 
 witness this novel scene, and among them many who 
 required looking sharply after. At noon it was all 
 right. Flags of every nation present were hoisted over 
 each tent. 
 
 The day was most inviting, lovely in the extreme ; and 
 at one p.m. nine boats were at the pier to bring all Guay- 
 mas to the gay and festive scene ; it was three, however. 
 
the 
 
 and 
 luay- 
 
 fever, 
 
 -J 
 
 ID 
 
 u 
 
 X 
 
OUR BALL. 
 
 269 
 
 before they arrived, and the trip in the boats was not the 
 least amusing. At four the ball commenced with a 
 grand quadrille (two sets of thirty-two each). Our band 
 was a harp, guitar, fiddle, two flutes, and a tambourine, 
 which harmonized well together. We danced until 
 dark, when the supper-room was illuminated, and supper 
 commenced. Seventy-five ladies sat comfortably at the 
 table (the flags alone which adorned the cakes cost eight 
 dollars), while at supper the dancing-room was lit up, 
 put to rights, and 'le carpet set up taut ; and it was 
 only now that the evening really commenced. They 
 danced with all their hearts. Quadrilles, waltzes, polkas, 
 gallopades, country dances, pascola, jaraby, and venado, 
 a Gong between each, not forgetting the quartette of the 
 Ultimo Adios, and the Figaro fe. Twenty-one dances of 
 the former alone were got through. At two there was 
 another supper, and then continued the dancing until 
 three, when we could no longer stand. We had now 
 danced eleven hours, leaving only just sufficient effort to 
 get into the boats, and, when full, a blue light and port 
 fire was burned from each prominent point. The boats 
 rowed their precious cargoes slowly along. The night 
 was eool, calm, and beautiful, all was prosperous, and 
 at four our valuable freight was safely landed on the 
 same spot they had departed from twelve hours pre- 
 viousl3^ 
 
 Thus ended our first ball. The ladies were 
 delighted ; they said they had " never seen such a dis- 
 play before," and the only thing ih-y regretted was, that 
 " they never should again." All were " Muy allegria," 
 " Muy contento," and " Mucho sala," The same mom- 
 
270 
 
 MAZATLAN IN TEARS. 
 
 ^ 
 
 n 
 
 t\ 1 
 
 ing knives, hatchets, and marline-spikes were doing their 
 savage work on our marquees. 
 
 Here, again, in the midst of our pleasures, we hear 
 of the death of a most estimable and kind-hearted man ; 
 and how often we see those who really are too good and 
 too amiable for this world taken from us to a better one ! 
 'Ihis is surely an illustration of the chequered life of a 
 sailor ; one moment amid all the temporal pleasures of 
 this world — in an instant gone to the next, either to 
 eternal misery or to everlasting happiness ! 
 
 How true it is that " in the midst of life we are in 
 death I" The worthy and kind captain whom T have 
 before alluded to at Mazatlan, and whom 1 could not leave 
 without paying a passing tribute to his worth, "kind in 
 the extreme to his officers, beloved by his men," was now 
 no more. A gloom hung all around, both on shore and 
 afloat.; to quote the melancholy words of our informant, 
 " all Mazatlan were in tGars." A party had been given 
 to the residents on board this attractive frigate. Next 
 morning the captain came on deck, was taken suddenly 
 ill, and in twelve hours he was a corpse ; " he killed him- 
 self by kindness to others." He died, beloved by every 
 one. All we could hope was, that so good a creature 
 may be one of those select few, who at the last day 
 shall have said to him, " Come, ye blessed of the Father, 
 inherit the kingdom prepared for you from the founda- 
 tion of the world." 
 
 The ship was now thoroughly refitted, after all our 
 buffeting with storms, rocks, and icebergs, and a little 
 paint made us again proud of our " home on the waters." 
 Many of our friends wished to see an " English frigate," 
 
SHIP VISITI>U1. 
 
 271 
 
 11 our 
 
 little 
 
 Uers." 
 
 ;ate," 
 
 and, although the day was an unlucky one, their wishes 
 were gratified, and the boats brouglit off about thirty 
 of our newly-formed jquaintances, among them the 
 offended parties at the first ball ; and we were so glud of 
 the opportunity of making our ship conciliation hall 
 when all was explained, at once accepted, and as quickly 
 forgotten. We had an afternoon of real fun, which mid- 
 shipmen alone ca7i enjoy. Everything in the ship was 
 shown to them ; and the raids.' berth appeared to attract 
 most attention, not from its apparent incapability of 
 squeezing seventeen unfortunate mids. together, but 
 from the fact of the number of relics collected during 
 our long cruise, which seemed to please amazinghj ; as 
 many as coidd be crammed into the berth were seated 
 (we all remained outside, and looked through the bars). 
 Our desks were opened ; the little relics, forget-me-nots, 
 locks of hair of those long since, I was about to say, for- 
 gotten — but forgive me — all underwent a most thorough 
 investigation. We had to account for them all, and had 
 to dress in our theatrical dresses, frocks, and lace caps, 
 which had been made on board by ourselves. If we 
 never laughed before, we certainly made up fully on this 
 occasion /o?' any lost time ; the screaming and laughing 
 alternately was deafening, and only ceased when our 
 kind and liberal captain sent down to say that " Lun- 
 cheon was ready, and luaiting ;*' and although the 
 temptation was great, it was with much reluctance they 
 left the dark and dreary berth for the captain's cabin. 
 All now became serious for a short time. 
 
 Darkness only broke up our party, and our friends 
 were e&corted safely on shore, and, being invited to a 
 
*J72 
 
 TIIK CAhA FUKUTK. 
 
 I 
 
 house wlioro wo had not hc^fore visited, could not resist. 
 In it |«issed ono of our most agrooablo evenings ; 
 luid it hai)poned to he a house of which I shall havo 
 much to say, and much to spoak in favour of; but all 
 the i>ens, pa}ier, au«l genius, could not speak in sufficient 
 praise of this Casa FucrU ! 
 
ot resist, 
 veilings ; 
 Kill Imvo 
 ; but all 
 mfHcieiit 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 C A S A F U K R T 10 . 
 
 FAMILY— TIIK SALA-TIIIRI, HAM.— PAIN r.I, SI TPATION - r,A«T 
 ADIKII— PARTING TIIOIKJIITS — CONTRAHT— PARTIN.; M.oK — 
 COWARni.Y MltRDKH— lloRRin (RIMKH - »A IM) |,i; ( AMI>(». 
 
 "Ah ! hour of parti ri;< ! oh ! what wordn can toll 
 The Had last accents of the wihl farewell !" 
 
 This hospitable mansion was situated in a most central 
 and convenient part of the town, in the middle of the 
 Plaza, and close to the landing-place facing the " Gal- 
 latea," having two entrances, and several windows 
 guarded fortunately by iron bars, and through these 
 many a sweet word passed, and many a "Se sale" 
 uttered. 
 
 A few years since this hospitable rendezvous was well 
 known to every one who visited Guaymas. Scarcely 
 had a vessel dropped her anchor when a general invita- 
 tion arrived for every one to come on shore to dance, 
 and sup, and enjoy themselves, at the Casa Fuerte.' 
 Death has since visited this happy spot, and robbed it of 
 its main branch; and not until our arrival had it again 
 recommenced its byegone scenes. This interesting and 
 happy family of " light hair and blue eyes" consisted of 
 
 H 
 
iV:i 
 
 I I 
 
 274 
 
 THE FAMILY. 
 
 four; tho eldest married, the remaining three beautiful 
 specimens of "fair Mexicans." One was of a thoughtful, 
 pensive, sweet disposition, being now and then serious ; 
 the second, young, gay, and thoughtless, exceedingly good- 
 natured and sweet-tempered ; the youngest, sedate, and 
 uiotherly, imparts good advice (giatis), and sweetly dis- 
 posed. First cousins of these, and frequently at tiie 
 casa when we visited, were the two girls I have men- 
 tioned before as the " Amber Satins ;" fine, tall, quiz- 
 zical girls, good figures, and sweet-tempered ; also two 
 other second cousins, lively, larkish, pretty girls, and 
 dance elegantly. 
 
 In the almost constant company of such creatures as 
 I have attempted only briefly to describe, will it be 
 thought unnatural, or contrary to the general disposition 
 of sailors, if I acknowledge that we felt our hearts 
 gradually and perceptibly softening beneath the irre- 
 sistible glances of their soft blue, yet piercing, eyes ? 
 
 Very pleasant evenings were passed at the " Serpents," 
 where we always met the " cousins," and other agreeable 
 companions ; but in the drawing-room of the Casa 
 Fuerte were the " happiest hours that e'er we spent/' 
 
 It was the prettier . movement in the world to see how 
 the dances were commenced. Of course we did not 
 Avish to introduce the subject, fearing it might be the cause 
 of trouble or inconvenience. One would shrug up her 
 shoulders, and exclaim, " Tan frio ;" another would rub 
 her hands, and place them on yours to feel how chilled 
 they were ; a couple more would shift the small marble 
 table into a corner ; and this was a general signal f <r us 
 to assist. The good-natured " Lola " would commence a 
 
witiful 
 ghtful, 
 jrious ; 
 J good- 
 ie, and 
 ly dis- 
 at the 
 B men- 
 1, quiz- 
 ,lso two 
 rls, and 
 
 tures as 
 11 it be 
 iposition 
 r hearts 
 he irre- 
 es? 
 
 jrpents/' 
 reeable 
 le Casa 
 ?nt/' 
 see how 
 did not 
 le cause 
 up her 
 )uld rub 
 chilled 
 marble 
 il f <r us 
 Imeuce a 
 
 THE SALA. 
 
 275 
 
 polka, and who then could resist ? Off we went. One 
 dance of each sort, a song between, an Indian duet, 
 and a little chat, passed away four or five hours in a 
 most delightful manner. 
 
 After our ball, with which they were so much pleased, 
 the people literally spoiled us ; quite unfitted us for any- 
 thing serious ; and when we were seen entering " The 
 Casa," parties from the square soon followed to enjoy 
 new faces and jokes in bad Spanish. 
 
 Such was the delightful manner each evening was 
 passed ; and it was a pleasing sight to those more 
 elderly to behold us, after our dances, "pairing off," 
 some to the sofa, some to the window recesses, to talk 
 soft " blarney " (or, as they called it, " Se sal^ "), and to 
 make a^^^-ologies for some whose duty prevented their 
 coming on shore. 
 
 To us, secluded as we had been from all that was 
 civilized for now nearly five years, the effect of such a 
 transition is impossible to describe ! The female loveli- 
 ness by which we were surrounded in that never-to-be- 
 forgotten " Sala " was quite sufficient to dnve much 
 less sensitive hearts than ours to utter distraction. 
 
 The time now arrived for another ball ! An attempt 
 to describe or retrace the every day acts of kindness and 
 hospitality received from the residents of Guaymas 
 would utterly fail ; but I must trust to my pen to carry 
 me through a mere outline of our "really last ball." 
 The very invitations wers the prettiest things I have 
 seen ; given expressly for us, couched in sweet terms, and 
 bordered with wreaths of flowers and loving couples 
 dancing the polka around the margin. 
 
 T 2 
 
i.'7<; 
 
 THIRD nAlX. 
 
 : I 
 
 Tho room (a lftrjj;or ono on this occasion) was ad- 
 joinin>j our " Ca«a Funrto," and fitted in the moHt 
 task'ful manner imaginal)lo, lined tlirougliout with 
 white f;laze»l calico (twenty-five pieces) ; [)icr glasses 
 hung all round ; the recesses flowered and festooned ; 
 and at the head of the roon» was a model of our 
 own ship, working by clockwork, phmging and foam- 
 ing in the elements (in miniature imagination only this 
 time), and underniiath the name of our " happy vessel " 
 in large gilded letters, a compliment nuich appreciated 
 by us all. The Mexican and English national colours 
 blended together in graceful harmony over our model 
 ship. A ladies' room, a refreshment room, and next to 
 the supper-room the " Sala," where so many happy hours 
 \\i\d passed away ! Mangrove trees, lumg with oranges 
 ami variegated lamps, formed a pretty entrance. 
 
 The ladies were dressed very tastefully, generally lace 
 over white and coloured satins, green and yellow silks, 
 jewellery in great display, white satin shoes and salmon- 
 coloured stockings, sashes, and one or two rosettes of 
 artificial flowers. 
 
 Supper was announced for half at one time, after some 
 
 few dances, and wlien they were refreshed the other half 
 
 commenced. Then dancing began in right earnest. 
 
 " Heel and toe," down the middle and up again, with all 
 
 their hearts and strength. 
 
 ** Those now danced who never danced Ixjfore ; 
 And they who always danced now danced the more." 
 
 I several times looked round the room, and I think 
 the number of pretty faces exceeded those at our last 
 ball. I do not like being personal, but I could not help 
 
I'AINKUL SITUATION. 
 
 277 
 
 as jul- 
 > moHt 
 , with 
 
 ooned ; 
 of our 
 I foum- 
 ily this 
 vessel " 
 reciated 
 colours 
 • model 
 next to 
 )y hours 
 oranges 
 
 ,lly lace 
 )W silks, 
 salmon- 
 ettes of 
 
 ,er some 
 lier half 
 earnest, 
 with all 
 
 e." 
 
 I think 
 nvr last 
 
 ot help 
 
 rcnuirkiiif^ that really the "Fuortcs" looked (iterant ! 
 
 irrosiHtihly killiti-; ! Poor pensive, trldc E , danced 
 
 her last quadrille with me ; and, if I recollect ri^ht, a 
 short waltz afterwards. T hreathed (in had Spanish) 
 vows of eternal rejnenihranco in her oars; declared that 
 nothini.^ but my bond and atUichmont to the service of 
 my country, to which I was devoted, prevented me from 
 immediately settling in Uuaymas, .and making a loving 
 and amiable couple happy for life! She clasped her 
 hands tightly around my arm, looked doubtfully in my 
 face, and I heard murmured the unmistakable words, 
 " So sale." " Run," said she, " from your vessel, and 
 live with us as a dear brother, and we will make you 
 happy." I endeavoured to explain the everlasting dis- 
 grace of such a rash step, with the risk of losing my 
 head also. When tlie quadrille finished, I was glad it 
 did. I led my partner to a sofa ; I took a " sortijo" from 
 my finger, and, placing it on hers, prayed her to accept 
 and wear it for my sake alone, and, when she gazed on 
 it, to " pensar di mi." 
 
 One young person, who was evidently a little piqued 
 at not receiving an equal share of attention to my now 
 unhappy partner, when I asked her a question, replied, 
 " She did not know me." " Oh !" said I, "if you don't, 
 it will break my heart ! " I give her credit for her reply : 
 "Then come to me," she said, "and I will sew it up 
 agam ! 
 
 Our second supper was at 2.30 A.M. Here our happy, 
 or now unhappy party again grouped together, and alter- 
 nately eat and said sweet things, cheered and drank the 
 health of the Casa Fuert^s; the girls to our pleasant 
 
278 
 
 LAST ADIKU. 
 
 voyage. Before the 8Ui)[)cr tcrniiiiatoil, the lailios most 
 unoxpectodly prcsouted our gallant aiul worthy captain 
 with a white satin ensign, the .ship's naniu heautit'ully 
 Avorked on its fly. The " Ultimo A«lio8" was again sung. 
 The sentiment is so beautiful, I must hero quote it, and 
 then the reader may conclude liow charming must it 
 have been, sang by four fair-haired, bluc-eyud Mexicans : — 
 
 
 i)! 
 
 "EL ULTIMO ADIOS!"— (THE LAST ADIKU.) 
 
 " Adios Virgcn celcstiiil, 
 Que cii d iniiiulo pvrcgrino, 
 Krrndo yu en lui ciiinino 
 Mec voi fi un niundn incjor. 
 
 Qucdatc en par en lit ticrra 
 Kntrc tU8 sucfios dc oro ; 
 A ! no nmldigas uii lloro 
 Es el postrero dc amor. 
 
 " Tu fuistcs cl primer ensucfio 
 Dc mi ardicntc fhntasin, 
 Y tu 8cras, alnm mia 
 Mi postrimero pensar. 
 
 Aycr tu amor fue mi vida 
 Tu dcsumor cs mi muertc j 
 A ! que amargo es oh ! qucrida 
 Sin ti & los ciclos volar. 
 
 " Adios oh ! muger que adoro 
 El angel vclc tus sucfios ; 
 Quidatc en par oh ! mi dueno 
 En un mundo de dolor. 
 
 Yo te perdono mi muertc 
 For tus caricias pasadas, 
 A! en tus horas doradas 
 Ten compasion de mi amor." 
 
 Our last dance was at 5 A.M., but there were many 
 
 ^ H 
 
TirOUOHTS OK I'AIITINO. 
 
 27!) 
 
 cs inoHi 
 ciipluiu 
 
 iiutifully 
 
 tin Bung. 
 
 it, and 
 miiMt it 
 
 icttus: — 
 
 KU.) 
 
 5re many 
 
 who would not attempt it, and pr<;forred ratln'r puHHJiig 
 tlic! few iriomontH left tliem in pouring tlio last words of 
 lovo into tlicir deluded partnorH* cans. 
 
 S(jine wore very nnicli alVocted at tl*..) thonglitH of 
 parting. It would not he proper to commit to paper the 
 ajleciting lengths to which some of the "adios" wen; 
 earricd. Many coidd not without difficulty be persuaded 
 to return to their ship and their homes, and in this dis- 
 tracted and heartrending state of affairs, wc dragged 
 ourselves away at half-past five in the morning. Our 
 ship had .sails Ixmt, ready for sea, and before dark that 
 night all those who had endeared themselves to us by 
 their excessive kindness were far out of sight ! Thus 
 were we compelled to take an abrupt leave — perhaps for 
 the best. I can hardly tell what a little coaxing may 
 not liavo accomplished. 
 
 Wo had not the least idea wc wore going to sea so 
 suddenly, and had hoped that this our last evening would 
 have permitted our performing the sad duties of a fare- 
 well ! 
 
 One word, then, at parting, and I shall have said adieu 
 in spirit to them all. Their hospitality, attention, kind- 
 ness, and good-heartedness has given us just reasons never 
 to forget them ; and I am, moreover, certain there is not 
 one amongst us who is ungrateful enough to do so. 
 
 We had scarcely got well clear of the land when a 
 gale down the gulf reduced us to close reefs, and, oh ! 
 what a contrast to our last night this was ! I recollect 
 remarking to one of my partners, that I feared their 
 next picnic and ball would entirely drive us from their 
 memories. " Oh, no," she replied ; " we are not like you 
 
280 
 
 CONTUAHT. 
 
 » 
 
 I: \ 
 
 I I 
 
 sailors — the first broeze of wind blows all away. Our 
 hearts are too sensitive ; when we entertain a love or a 
 fondness, it is never to be erased. Tears" (( ontinuod the 
 
 pensive E ) "may flow about your eyes, but ours 
 
 come from our hearts ! " 
 
 *' Sail on, Hail on, thou IciirlcHS bark ; 
 
 Wherever blows the welcome wind, 
 It cannot lead to scenes more dark. 
 
 More sad than those we leave behind. 
 Sail on, sail oii ; throu^rh endless space, 
 
 Through calm, through tempest, stop no more ; 
 The stormiest sea's a resting-place 
 
 To him who leaves such hearts on shore." 
 
 On completing our Jifth year together, we cannot but 
 look back and retrace many of the numerous incidents 
 which have occurred to us, with a mixture somewhat A 
 sorrow, joy, and pain. Many a hardship had we endured, 
 but it had been repaid by such scenes as just narrated at 
 Guaymas ; many a long and dismal voyage had been 
 passed, but all forgotten in our first meeting on shore. 
 Many of our shipmates, young and old, have been snatched 
 away by death, shot, drowned, died suddenly or gradually, 
 from severity of climates ; those who remained, who 
 were still permitted the privilege of enjoying life by a 
 kind and merciful Providence, had every reason now to 
 offer a silent and fervent prayer for their many hair- 
 breadth escapes from the jaws of death. 
 
 » ^it ♦ ♦ 
 
 After visiting several of the small islands in the Gulf 
 of California (not forgetting the town of Loretto, famed 
 for its female beauties), we returned to Mazatlan. Seve- 
 
PAUTINCl LOOK. 
 
 281 
 
 \e Gulf 
 
 famed 
 
 Seve- 
 
 rn! of those Hinall inlundH abuuiid in diKT and rnbhitH, uiid 
 tlio bays in turtle, many of which were takon, but wore 
 rank and Hshy, tliis not bring tiiu proper season (March). 
 We liad also an opportunity of seeing the extensive salt 
 hikes in the centn; of the Tsle of MontserraUi. It had 
 the appearance of a lake of milk, the salt, of the most 
 transparent and best (luality, having about one foot water 
 over it. Its surface covering a plain of imuicnse extent, 
 the evaporation of 1 1° which takes place causes the great 
 deposit of salt, antl which is sufficient for the consump- 
 tion of the universe. A small specimen obtained was 
 like a lump of crystal. 
 
 In passing down the gulf, we had a parting look only 
 at the mountains whose bases encircled the town where 
 our never-to-be- forgoti en six weeks had been enjoyed. 
 It fell a dead calm at sunset, and all the familiar outlines 
 of the " Cerros " surrounding our late scenes of pleasure 
 were before us, and we stood and gazed on them with 
 mixed feelings of gladness and sorrow, embracing a vain 
 hope that we may some day again return ! The moon 
 was a little past the full, and the night was a heavenly 
 one ; not a ripple on the waters, and the reflected rays of 
 the moon on the sea appeared like a vast sheet of quick- 
 silver. We pictured to ourselves the joy if we could only 
 be wafted at that moment near the windows of the Casa 
 Fuerte. The screams of " Hoy-ga" would not be called 
 in vain ; one whisper of " Tan frio," and the small 
 marble table placed in the recess, it would not be many 
 minutes before we would all be off " like mad," and utter 
 our " Se sales' 
 
 o er again. 
 
 We arrived at Mazatlan just in time to partake of the 
 
2.^2 
 
 COWAUni.Y MltUDKU. 
 
 m ■ 
 
 Si L-" 
 
 moluiM'lioly cltJt)' of liriiij; luimito ^miiis, with «lriu>|»in|i,' 
 c«)K>ur.s. for our imivt'isjilfy lH>luvtMl i^Juron Dowugor. wUo 
 hiul (l«*piirttHi this lit't*. 
 
 An Amorii'fin iVi^ato lav in tho hny. luul. uhhony[h 
 war hjul oojusnl lH't\vt>rn thotn and (ht> Mt^xionns, tlio 
 hiittrtl of tho hittor was htill oaniod to j^jroat KMigths, 
 and a most dasUmlly nuutlor had just boon por|u«ti'attHl. 
 Tho ImviuI of tho frigato hatl lH>on kindly lout tv» tho 
 thoatn* for iho ovoninf?, and a bojit sont, in oliargo of a 
 yitvnij; N»idshij>n\a»i, sixtron y<»ais of ai;o, to briny; them 
 otV. Tht'y had (jus is ttlirtiifH tho cast*) too much to ilrink, 
 and a row cnsuoil on tho pior, which omiod in this youn^ 
 othoor lK<in«j[ stonod to ilcath by th(> oowanlly Mexican 
 villains I lie wtiH buried alon^sido tho lato nuicli- 
 laniontod captain ns well as tho owntT of tho Thanu>M 
 yacht., who, it will bo rocolloctod. iliod not lonjjf sinoo. 
 After tho tond)st«>no had lu»on placed ov«>r tlu» child's 
 grave, it \\i\n found tu^xt n\orninu[ snuished to at«>ius ! I 
 visited the tombs of all sh«)rtly afterwards. 
 
 The olu>lera had entirely «lisapp»»arotl from Mjizatlan. 
 but it wa« now tho n^ligious se!usi»n. " liont." and during 
 tlu^ evening in almost overy house may bo seen a 
 " Keunion ltoligii>s!i." A large rect\s8 in the <lrawing- 
 room was th^owratiul with tlowers, oranges, and ci>h>m"ed 
 waters, Ntu'rounding an iinagt> t>f " Inri ;" tho piano and 
 t)ther instruments wore )H>rmitt(Hl, with chat, but no 
 danuing or singing allowed, and this was strictly 
 adhered io. 
 
 Tho livui s»»a«on torminated with a grand procession 
 on Good Friday — every one, iiigh and low. rich and 
 ^K)or, naval and military, juliiod, hohling long lightot'i 
 
IIOUKII) CUIMKS. 
 
 2vs;i 
 
 i^hUu'i 
 
 OHiullt's (ox»H»|)tin^ till) MHvnl iviul militniy.) to the l)0juvi"s 
 of (lilVoriMil i'inl»l«>ius of (li»» soiuson, Portions ol' this 
 (•oi(>mon}' W0I1) most ivhsunlly liy|MHTitii'al ; otIuMs rouUy 
 af>i><uii('d (K»vont ; jiiul I ooiiKI not liolp noticinj^ tlio 
 fjict, that from tho oxtnMuo hrat of tho «hiy in tho 
 strool.s, i\w ciunWon lut^ltod (|uioIv(M' in (ho hands than at 
 tho burnini<; wioks. 
 
 Si'anu'ly an ovoninjjf passed without a Moxioan niur- 
 lUiriny; an Aniorioan. or an Ainorioan a Moxican. Ono 
 of cmr mossniatos wjin onga^od hvto in tlu» ovctunjj; 
 I>in(Un^ \ip tho wounds ot* an ohl j^roy-hoaihul man. Init 
 who hhnl to doath «hirin|^ tlio nii»ht ; anothor was shot 
 with his own pistol whiU.' »>xaniininy; it. A tino younj{ 
 Anioriran w<ks takon lor niurdorinu; a man in coid hhuul 
 for no rojuson wh.Uovor. (At San Kran«'isoo A.OtU) dollars 
 wt>ro otVoitHl t\>r IiIh approhonsitui.) Parties o( soldiors 
 woro tlaily in soaroh o( p»>rMons who hatl «lurinjj[ tho 
 night conunitiod sonu> horrid rrimo. A pis(i)l was takon 
 away from a drunktMi Vanko»> hy ono of our shipinatos, 
 who had pointo«l it at him, an«l wtus about to pull tho 
 trigg(>r — a moat provi«lontial osoupv ho luvd. This in tho 
 Hoci('ty wo aro at prosont siirrounthHl by, ami wo aro 
 oompt'llod to Ih) vory oaroful whoro wo go, ajid to go 
 woU ju'inoil and propjsrotl. 
 
 At Hw vory ploasant " Tortiilia" wo m(>t n cousin i)f 
 our doar frioud at (hiaymas. Siio wjis what may Ih) 
 formed mt>lanoholv boautiful, but tho oharnung I'honit^v 
 was ft swoot eoipiottish oroi>turo, singlo. an(! apparently 
 without an aduuror ! Kron» th«'so and others wt> loarnt 
 nuvny pleasing aoeounts of o«»r hile frit>nds at (luaymas. 
 'I'hoy woro all about to bo married ! Tho attentiona 
 
I- 
 
 \^ i I 
 
 fi I 
 
 28:t 
 
 HAILE DE CAMPO. 
 
 of the " men-of.war" had caused some jealousy, and 
 fearing a renewal of our visit (which all had of course 
 promised), some were already married ! others promised, 
 and many not far off the happy state. 
 
 Before our departure for the Sandwich Isles we were 
 favoured by the politeness of the residents to a " Bade 
 de Campo," given in a cocoa-nut-grove a short distance 
 from town. The place was tastefully and elegantly laid 
 out, with every appropriate device that ingenuity could 
 suggest ; montd tables here and there, and at one alone 
 150 ounces were lost by one person, the president of the 
 table, — rather an unusual occurrence, for the chances are 
 generally in his favour. 
 
 I never saw such an opening of bottles, especi dly 
 champagne ; twenty dozen fled in no time. Tiie nu^ ; 
 was good and ground bad, but we nevertheless auiiced 
 eleven hours, and then concluded with a " Naval 
 Quadrille/' determined still to keep up the credit of our 
 cloth. 
 
 This " Baiie de Campo" is a good idea of getting out 
 of the heat and dust of a town. The mosquitos are your 
 only enemy, but their attentions are generally attracted 
 by the sweeter blood of the arms and necks of the fairer 
 and softer sex. 80 much for the good taste of these 
 tormentors ! ^^the mosquitos are n^eant). 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 SANDWICH ISLES. 
 
 CAPTAIN COOK — THE LEVEE — HALF CASTES — BEHRINg's CROSS — 
 GRAND SCENE — A STRANGER. 
 
 The first portion of the Sandwich Isles seen was the 
 snow-capped peak of Mauna Roa, nearly fourteen 
 thousand feet above the sea, presenting a scene truly 
 grand, towering above the bay where the celebrated 
 circumnavigator Cook was murdered. 
 
 It is impossible to pass the spot of this melancholy 
 scene without participating in the universal feeling of re- 
 gret at the sudden loss of so estimable and so renowned 
 an explorer. Those who have passed over his many tracks 
 know how truly all positions are placed, with only the 
 " aid of a quadrant and pocket watch ;" and that his 
 end should have been so untimely and sc unexpected, 
 depriving him of all the honours and rewards he was 
 about to enjoy when his task was so nearly accom- 
 plished, fills the heart of those who know what he had 
 encountered with despair and anguish on contem- 
 plating it. 
 
 The wrecks of two ill-fated vessels marked the 
 
280 
 
 THE LEVEE. 
 
 II 
 
 % 
 
 
 Ml 
 
 entrance to the inner harbour of Honolulu ; they were 
 driven on shore about two months since, and now lie a 
 warning to the mariner. 
 
 The Kanakas again laid hold of us, and we were 
 drawn into the inner harbour, and, as usual, we found 
 everything seventy-five per cent, dearer, consequent on 
 the numbers madly and thoughtlessly rushing to Cali- 
 fornia, vessels constantly arriving crowded with deluded 
 persons in most deplorable conditions, and such scenes 
 of misery I never beheld ; one vessel, the Harmony 
 (of all names the most inappropriate) was a floating 
 nuisance ; many had not even room to lay down, and 
 c distantly chose the streets all night while in harbour. 
 
 ' rst levee I was presented at was to his sable 
 
 Majefe.^ King Kamehameha, where all appeared in 
 full dress. A few years since these people were savages, 
 cannibals ! now a kingdom speaking our own language, 
 and acknowledging the Christian religion. A queer 
 feeling overcame us all. We were received at the 
 palace grounds by a guard of honour, and were pre- 
 sented by the Consul-General to his Majesty, sitting on 
 his throne, surrounded by his premier, lord cham- 
 berlain, minister for foreign relations, and the governors 
 of the many islands — it really was a novel sight. After 
 this we visited the palace apartments, and viewed the 
 several paintings of byegone kings and queens, chiefs, 
 &c. A Kanaka cannot be more thoroughly offended or 
 his dignity hurt than by asking him, "Who eat Captain 
 Cook ?" His black face will turn pale with rage. 
 
 Our last evening was passed in a most pleasant 
 manner at the Bremen consul's, and we had an oppov 
 
HALF CASTES. 
 
 287 
 
 tunity of witnessing the rapid progress made by the 
 pretty and interesting " half castes " in manners and 
 customs. Really they deserve much credit; and they 
 went through their dances of quadrilles, lanciers, «&;c., 
 with all the ease and grace of a Parisienne. After we 
 had bade adieu to all those who had done their utmost 
 to make a few evenings pass pleasantly for us, we were 
 again off. 
 
 On her most gracious Majesty's birthday, again 
 started on our third voyage to the Arctic regions. 
 There were some hopes that we should have been 
 recalled from this trying service, but now there were 
 none ; we were out of all reach, and began to feel it 
 would 7?ever end. AVhat added to our misfortunes was, 
 being without warm clothing ; and the provisions, by 
 Goldner (the villain), worse, if possible, than the previous 
 season, being also one year older; and altogether our 
 prospects were not to be envied, except that we had 
 another chance of rescuing from destruction our brave 
 companions ! 
 
 Our only amusement (or at least pastime) was pre- 
 paring for the "icy north." Fogs already surrounded 
 us, making it cold, damp, and disagreeable. 
 
 Again we had to undergo the melancholy trial of the 
 loss of another shipmate. These severe tests of climate 
 were too much for him, and he gradually sank, and 
 breathed his last at 6 A.M. To him alone a mother 
 and family looked for support. A few months since his 
 brother, an acting gunner, was blown off the deck of the 
 Cerberus, in Hamoaze, and drowned ; and now his spirit 
 had returned to Him who gave it. 
 
1 1 
 
 * T ' 
 
 28.^ 
 
 IIKHIMNU S fitOSS. 
 
 The cojist of Kiiin.stehatka was again in sight ; hut on 
 this occasion the weather was tliick, wot, and cohl — a 
 most gloomy scene — and the land covered with snow. 
 The season was evidently a backward one, as we had not 
 yet experienced a fine day. Twelve months since lovely 
 weather was enjoyed. 
 
 On passing Mednoi Island, we could plainly see the 
 cross erected to Behring, who was cast away on an island 
 bearing his name, not very far distant, in 1745, with 
 many of his brave companions, who miserably perished. 
 Here a ray of sunshine shone on us for the first time. 
 We had been wet with all our clothes for fourteen days, 
 and were thankful now to have a chance of drying 
 them. 
 
 Spoke an American whale ship "trying out," who in- 
 formed us, consequent on the information we had afforded 
 to whalers, there were now TWO hundred sail in and 
 about Behring's Strait. All had been anxiously watch- 
 ing for anything that would lead to the whereabouts of 
 Sir John Fianklin and his brave associates. 
 
 On entering Behring's Strait the sea was glassy 
 smooth, with a current setting us to the north two-thirds 
 of a mile an hour. The sunset was at half-p.'vai ten at 
 night, and all were turned up to view a scene that had 
 not before been beheld ; and this was the only spot in 
 the world such a sight could be seen. " The continents 
 of Asia and America at the same instant !*' It was a 
 grand scene indeed ! — the sky a dark purple, the sea a 
 dead calm, the tops of the mountains white with snow, 
 whales innumerable spouting and fluking in all direc- 
 tions. To the westward lay " Orel," the residence of the 
 
 )U 
 
(iUANI) Sf'KNK. 
 
 289 
 
 but on 
 cold — a 
 \i snow, 
 had not 
 e lovely 
 
 see the 
 n island 
 1-5, with 
 )erished. 
 st time. 
 m days, 
 drying 
 
 who in- 
 afforded 
 in and 
 f watch- 
 bouts of 
 
 I glassy 
 
 o-thirds 
 
 >\j ten at 
 
 hat had 
 
 spot in 
 
 ntinents 
 
 t was a 
 
 e sea a 
 
 ) snow, 
 
 1 direc- 
 
 8 of the 
 
 much favoured Tippioikoi — of whom T dare not say a 
 word. 
 
 Off East Cape three buidars came alongside and 
 freely bartered ivory ornaments, fur shoes, and gloves, for 
 tobacco. From them wo could gain no information 
 about our lost companions. They remained with us 
 two hours ; and, after giving them some rum, tobacco, 
 and beads, they paddled off Kigldy delighted. 
 
 Kotzebue Sound was full of icebergs, but in a fast state 
 of dissolution, crushing to pieces under our bows as the ship 
 pressed among them. Five baidars came out to meet us 
 with salmon and venison, the latter very high (not in 
 price). They were most friendly, and recognised us all 
 as " old friends." One of them held a certificate from a 
 friend of ours " that he had, during the winter, been 
 kindly treated by this man," and we of course loaded 
 him with presents ; but it was very curious to see a cer- 
 tificate presented to you in this out-of-the-way part of 
 the world. 
 
 The sound was so densely packed with ice that we 
 could not enter, and therefore stood out again for a few 
 days. During the night a N.W. wind came on, and we 
 again bore up for Chamisso Island, and to our astonish- 
 ment not a particle of ice was to be seen ; it had all disap- 
 peared in a night. We dropped anchor, and our consort, 
 who had passed the winter here, came alongside us, " all 
 well." The only news heard was, that " white people 
 were on Point Barrow building a ship ;" and the 
 natives had traced on paper a correct outline of the 
 coast, and placed the position of the "white people " on it. 
 
 After putting ourselves and ship a little to rights, 
 
2!m 
 
 A STRANGER. 
 
 IB- 
 
 M: 
 
 i *: 
 
 i .•:. 
 
 Mr! 
 
 again sailed on our search along the coast ; but, to our 
 utter surprise, found the solid ice- bank one hundred miles 
 south of where it last year stood ! The zodiacal light 
 was now seen magnetic south, with its base on the 
 horizon, and at 11.40 A.M., the sun set brilliantly. 
 
 The weather, thick, foggy, and gloomy, with a strong 
 S.W. wind, obliged us to haul off the pack, which now 
 had the appearance of land, thirty to forty feet high, 
 covered with snow. We returned to Cape Lisbume, the 
 appointed rendezvous, and had not been here many 
 hours before a vessel in the offing hoisted a white ensign 
 (and H. union). She was direct from England, had the 
 last twelve months news on board, and had come through 
 the Seguam passage, from the Sandwich Isles, without 
 sighting land, in the incredible short space of twenty-six 
 days! 
 
 A further search in Baffin's Bay by four vessels was 
 in contemplation, making in all twelve ships in the 
 Arctic regions looking for our lost friends. 
 
 No promotions had taken place among us. We were 
 altogether forgotten. " Out of sight out of mind " — 
 the old saying verified ! 
 
 We only remained in company sufficient time to pass 
 compliments. She bore up, hoisting the signaVFarewell!" 
 to which was at once responded " Success!" At mid- 
 night she was out of sight, intending to take the 
 " pack" at any risks, blowing then half a gale of vJud. 
 
 i;f 
 
vJud. 
 
 < 
 
 X 
 
 'J 
 
 > 
 
 < 
 
 X 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE ARCTIC OCEAN. 
 
 THE 4tII op august, AN AWFUL NIGHT— IMPROBABLE 8TOBY— THE 
 WHALERS— A FRIEND IN NEED— ANOTHER— MAN OVERBOARD — 
 SANDWICH I8Lli»— PKIVATE THEATRICALS. 
 
 "A hapless sailor here I roam, 
 
 Far from my dear maternal home; 
 Oh ! shield me from the wintry blast ! 
 The nightly storm is pouring fast." 
 
 The 4tb of August was a day and night that cannot 
 easily be forgotten ; it was one of the most awful ex- 
 perienced since the ship had been commissioned (now 
 five years). We had previously a few fine and calm 
 days ; the horizon suddenly darkened all round, but was 
 bright over head. About one in the morning, after 
 some vivid flashes of forked and sheet lightning, 
 accompanied by a strong wind, which shifted to the 
 S.W., there was chain and fork lightning, flashing 
 through our rigging. It commenced like a ball of fire on 
 the horizon (similar to a sunset), and then burst forth 
 over the whole heavens, followed by loua peals of 
 thunder and raiua So close did the lightning pass to 
 
 u2 
 
iJJ»2 
 
 AN AWITI. NIOIIT. 
 
 ; 
 
 » 
 
 ! ii 
 
 us, that I WHS about to call tin* men off the yanl, who 
 v/crv rix'rtiig topsails, rather riskiujjf tho loss of yn,r(lH and 
 sails, than tho uwu ; liowi^vcr, a lucrciful I'roviih'nce was 
 watchiuj? over us, and no aocidont occurred. 
 
 1 was always iuipr(\sst'«l with tlio idea that tho Straits 
 of Malacca and Sutuhi was tlio nucleus of tho most vivid 
 lightning ; hut having been through those straits many 
 times, I had never seen it so awfully grand as on this 
 occasion, and that night made a deep impression on 
 me. 
 
 Tho weather soon moderated, anil it fell a calm, and 
 the ship anchored to avoid being set on shore by the 
 current anil swell. Here our old friends, whom we had 
 seen before this season, visited us ; they were a little 
 dirtier than usual ! 
 
 Here again our consort was seen, she Imd been to 
 Point Barrow. The story of the white men building 
 boats there was altogether without any foundation ; and 
 we now began to find the natives were cunning enr 
 to make up these stories for the sake of the rev 
 promised. This made lis somewhat cautious ; however, 
 a further story was now heard, that " a party of white 
 men, in two boats, had been murdered near the Copuk, 
 and were buried, having whales' bones and jaws marking 
 the spot" — "some were still alive!" This was heard 
 from three separate parties, who were at war with the 
 Copuks. These, of course, we fancied co^dd be none 
 other than our boat expedition which started twelve 
 months since ; but the story was rather imj)robable. 
 
 It, however, coincided with one we heard at Michae- 
 louski, Norton Soun'l. last season, that "the company 
 
IMIMKHJAUM'; HTOUY. 
 
 ♦J!)3 
 
 )wever, 
 white 
 
 ■^opuk, 
 
 arking 
 heard 
 h the 
 
 ! none 
 
 had m.'on natives with firo-arniH," and that " the peoplo 
 won! all huriod in a liole." Now the flrHt, " Hnr-arriiH," 
 the fur company will not permit ; and the scooiid is con- 
 trary to the usual (Mistom of buryiii;^ their dead ! 
 
 However, the suhject re((uired idto<jctlier mo8t mature 
 doliboration to decide wliat was to he done. We all, of 
 course, wanted to bo ott' Iminedlotdy to search the spot, 
 hut those who possessed older and wiser licads said 
 "wait awhile !" 
 
 The probability .i the story was a little shaken by a 
 refusal on the part of our native informant to act as 
 pilot, with a temptation of a cank of tobacco and two 
 
 muskets. 
 
 « « • « « 
 
 Before returning from the search of the coast .'ind 
 packed ice, wo landed on Point Hope, to place a mark 
 and bury a notice, for the guidance of any ono following 
 us. 
 
 The natives were friendly, and did not exceed 
 twenty-four in number. They bartered freely, ])ut 
 lost no opportunity of stealing ! They live in three 
 summer eraugs, all their yourts, or under-ground dwell- 
 ings, being shut for the season. Some we opened from 
 curiosity and entered ; they were each about eight feet 
 under ground, sixteen long by ten wide ; some floored 
 with drift wood, others slate stone, and all built of 
 whales' bones, then covered with slate and earth, leaving 
 a square hole on top for entrance and exit of man and 
 smoke ; in winter this hole is covered with a slab of ice, 
 which admits light. Four large stakes are driven at 
 each corner of the yourt, standing about twenty feet 
 
294 
 
 THE WHALERS. 
 
 Above the ground, and on these they hang their sledges, 
 tools, harness, &c. 
 
 The yourts were about twenty-five in number, and 
 capable of holding about 300 persons. In one was found 
 a set of masks made of wood, curiously carved, with 
 human teeth stuck in the mouth ; with these they per- 
 form their masquerades in winter. All the tools and 
 implements for housekeeping were still hanging around, 
 but covered with mould, and the whole place had the 
 feeling and smell of a vault — cold, dead, and sickly. 
 Tobacco was exchanged for curios made from walrus 
 and whales' teetli, on very friendly tenns ! and no 
 wonder, for we found as fast as it was bartered it was 
 taken again and resold, at the same moment that one 
 on either side were busy picking our pockets, so that in 
 the end we did not gain much, and, indeed, did not care ; 
 our object was to make friends, aad not enemies, Sv> they 
 had all their own way. 
 
 While returning to our ship and making all sail, a 
 boat was lowered to pick up a small cask, having marked 
 on it " S mess beef" We were disappointed, for all had 
 hoped it would afford us some information. 
 
 Shortly after hove to in company with an American 
 whale ship, of New Bedford, homeward bound I FuU, 
 having 2,900 barrels of oil on board. She had beard 
 nothing of the object of our longing search. 
 
 From her captain, who brought two sick men on 
 board, we derived much information relative to the 
 " whaling fleet/' " He estimated the number inside the 
 straits to be 1 50 sail ; nearly all full. The highest 
 latitude reached wa£ 70" 30' uprth ; they were much 
 
A FRIEND IN NEED. 
 
 295 
 
 perplexed with ice ; a great many aail were iu St. 
 Lawrence Bay ; one ship had parted her anchor iu a 
 S.E. gale, and ran on shore, but was got off by the assis- 
 tance of other ships." 
 
 "Some vessels ran into the ice and obtained many 
 fish. The whales were much farther north this season 
 than any other, knowing they had enemies on the coast. 
 Three species of whale were noticed, the smallest and 
 most dangerous being the 'steple tops' (90 to 100 
 barrels good oil from each) ; they chase the V»oats and 
 tight much. The whale ships mostly anchor one to 
 fifteen miles off shore, on the coast of Asia, in fourteen 
 fathoms water." 
 
 Passed out of Behring's Strait, during an anxious 
 night, under reefed sails, and prayed that it might be for 
 the last time. We communicated with Norton Sound 
 settlement, but obtained no information whatever, and 
 tlien returned to Port Clarence. Here, to our astouish- 
 ment and surprise, and I may say joy, we found one of 
 our ships, which we had been chasing for the last two 
 mouths. She was aground, in endeavouring to get into 
 the inner harbour, and was eighteen inche* in the mud. 
 She had been as anxiously looking for us, having been 
 up and down the coast, firing rockets, blue lights, ex- 
 ploding barrels of powder, and setting beacons adrift. 
 She had been eighty miles east of Point Barrow, and had 
 reached the latitude of 73° 15' north ! She was now on 
 shore, and it was our pleasant duty to " haul her ofil," 
 and for which all at once prepa od. 
 
 She had to be lightened of everything on board ; 
 anchors, cables, ballast, provisions, .spars, &c., all taken 
 
 II 
 
2iM'* 
 
 ANOTIIKK. 
 
 \ 
 
 i' '■. 
 
 out ; purcluwcs plucotl »»ii tho oal)l(is, mid inaiiiM'(l Ity all 
 liaiuK Sho moved, and was soon in throo fatlioinn water. 
 All was aynin roturno«l to hor, stowod, ami pivparod for 
 son. Tills was all dono during tho most co!d ami trying 
 woathor — squalls of hail, snow, and rain, against which 
 our ship's crow w;vs not proparod. 
 
 Justwhon we had complot^Hl "assisting a kiidwn fri(>nd 
 in viow to tho utmost of our powor," another consort, in 
 coming out of tho inner harbour, ran aground, and wo 
 had again the ploaxing prospect of rendering her suceour; 
 however, this task was not so laborious. 
 
 Haidars constantly visit us from all parUs of tho bay, 
 bringing fish and small pieces of venison. Tlu^y possess 
 tho sann> weakness for adopting what is not their own. 
 One was found having two iron chain-hooks in the legs 
 of his boots, and looked very silly on being found out. 
 
 \yint*}r again ! Snow and sleet, with strong north-west 
 winds, compelled us to " be otl*" and wo left Port Cla- 
 rence, running in a north-west gale along St. Lawrence 
 Island, and passing Gore's, which, from the thick state 
 of the weather, coidd not be seen, and we were sorrv, 
 for it was the only island in these waters we had not 
 beheld. 
 
 Before making the Aleoutian Islands, we had the sad 
 misfortune to lose a man overboard. I had scarcely laid 
 down in my hammock, after keeping a cold, dreary, and 
 boisterous :niddle watch, when I heard the thrilling cry 
 of a " I\lan overboixd." I threw on one or two of my 
 cloth. 's which were near me, and rushed into the lee 
 quarter- l.'jat, the life-buoy was let go, and the sJiip 
 rounded to ; but neither the man nor t he buoy were again 
 
 
A MAN OVKIUJOAIU). 
 
 207 
 
 8(H3«, and, as ilio sea was ninning high, it was ruii.sidrrt'd 
 imprudent to lower the hoat, wliirih might only have aduMi 
 to the calamity. ThuH, in an instant, wnw snatched from 
 UH one of uiir HhipmateH. We had heerj five an<l a half 
 years together, got lhr(»Uj^h every danger, and on the evo 
 of returning to his lionie, when in one moment all was 
 over ; the s(?a closed on him for ever ! 
 
 When all hope was at an end, sail was again made, 
 leaving in our wake the sailor's uncertain grave. Ho 
 who, o»dy a few minutes b(!fore, had Injen looking forward 
 with the rest of us (for it was now our only tliought) to 
 the pleasures of again reaching our homes after upwards 
 of five years' toil and hardships, was now in eternity ! 
 Wo endeavoured in vain to forget this awful moment. 
 Oh ! what a les.son to us (jind I believe it is part of the 
 wisdom of the Great Creator to show forth these sa<l 
 examples to us constantly) to prepare ourselves ; not to 
 say to-morrow will do, or there is time enough, but this 
 instant to prepare to meet our Maker ; to " seek the Lord 
 while he may be found ; to call upon liim while he is 
 near." (Isaiah Iv. G, 7.) 
 
 « • • • 
 
 In a north east gale, wiin >iiil and khow storms, we 
 " ran" through the Seguam pas-sage .f the Aleoutian 
 group, by the Amoutcha channel. The '|iialls oil the 
 high land were very strong, and at midnight we were 
 free from danger, with the wide Pacific one more 
 before us. We knew not whither bound ; '■ was a 
 mystery. 
 
 But the thrill of pleasure which all felt when it v is 
 announced that the "Sandwich Isles" was to be <- lus- 
 
298 
 
 SANDWICH ISLKS. 
 
 iiualiou ! The meu almost j umped out of their ciuthoH 
 with joy, aiul smiles were over every face, for it had been 
 feared that we should have again to visit the American 
 shores, which would have prolonged our voyage home 
 four or five months. 
 
 Soon made the port all were so anxious for. Tlie 
 crew were getting weak and sickly ; scurvy was among 
 us ; and nutny would soon have had to " knock under ;" 
 their physical powers were fast giving way. However, 
 the ship was soou again in her old anchorage, snug Ih 
 the inner harbour, and commenced recruiting ourselves, 
 and refitting the vessel for our homeivard-hound voyage. 
 
 Nearly all the whalers had arrived safely. Only three 
 were missing. One foundered at sea, having crammed 
 herself too full ; two were supposed to be wrecked ; and 
 one placed herself on the reef shortly after our arrival. 
 Several hundred barrels of oil were saved from her, but 
 she became a total wreck ; indeed, it appeared to us a 
 buslneas ! 
 
 The residents again commenced to make the time pass 
 as quickly and as agreeably for us as they could, and we 
 enjoyed it with all our hearts. Everywhere there was 
 open house for us. 
 
 The bare idea of being again homeivard bound was 
 like a dream to us. Having been so long with the 
 prospect so many times before us, we could hardly realise 
 the fact as even probable, much less possible. However, 
 the morning arrived, .md I never saw the anchor torn 
 out of the ground ami whipped to the bows as it was 
 that morning. All sail was made, and we were running 
 towards Hony-Kong. The moment the breeze freshened. 
 
PRIVATE THEATRICALS. 
 
 299 
 
 something went ; our poor old ship was, like those 
 who trimmed her sails and guided her through the 
 waters, fast falling to decay. The merest puff, studding- 
 sail boom and iron gone ; another puff, a topmast stay ; 
 another, slings of a yard ; and so on, con tantly some- 
 thing breaking. Three years and a half is the term 
 generally appointed to a ship's commission, but we were 
 now nearly six years ; and in such extremes and varieties 
 of heat and cold, wind and snow, nothing could stand 
 such severe tests. 
 
 A CHAPTER ON PRIVATE THEATRICALS! 
 " All the world's a stage, and the men and women mere players." 
 
 1 have, on two or more occasions, alluded to our 
 having performed theatricals for pastime, and to having 
 displayed the dresses worn on those occasions for the 
 amusement of our frequent visitors, and it is therefore 
 necessary that it should be known by what means the 
 theatricals became formed, and how the dresses came 
 into shape. 
 
 Having among the midshipmen a naturally happy set 
 of fellows (seventeen in number), and among the gun- 
 room officers some ready to assist in mpJcing long dull 
 hours pass pleasantly ; and last, though not least, a 
 captain, ever willing to devote anything he possessed to 
 make us all happy, determined us to commence, though 
 under many apparent difficulties, and prepare for the 
 stage. 
 
 i 
 
 ( 
 
300 
 
 DilKSSKS. 
 
 There was o)ic difficulty prosenting itself — a serious 
 difficulty — we were all willinjj^, hut had not the mate- 
 rials ; this, liowever, was soon overcome, for, on our 
 arrival at Pt;tro))avlovskoi, there lay (as if waiting forus) 
 an Amoriortn notion vessel with everything on board 
 from a " 'jambric needle to a bower anchor." This now 
 urged and encouraged us the more : nmslins, paints, 
 glaze<l calicoes, brushes, lace, needles, satin riband, and 
 various other trimmings, bobbins, «&c., which I do not 
 know the projwr names of, were purchased. 
 
 The scenes were painted, though under many and 
 unforeseen difficulties ; before half finished, the brushes 
 were lost in a gale of wind, others had to be made, and 
 there was scarcely a soup plate or bason remaining in 
 the mids.' berth that had not been expended or cracked 
 in this purpose. There was a wood scene, a country 
 house and grounds, a room, and a street ; and six side 
 scenes, as well as a drop scene. The room with the fire- 
 place and pier-glass was the ma^tet'picce, aud looked 
 brilliant by candle-light. 
 
 The midshipman's berth was like a dressmaker's shop ! 
 All were employed, even those who could but " sew on 
 a button." There was a blue flowered muslin over 
 glazed calico for an eldeily lady ; a white lace over the 
 same material for a bride ; and a pink striped muslin 
 over something shining for a servant maid. All these 
 had to be made, as well as lace caps with trimmings to 
 correspond, for the elderly lady and maid. 
 
 The mess-table was daily covered with tape, scissors, 
 hooks aud eyes, bodkins, and other murderous we-ipons. 
 Some were cutting out the paper patterns after the 
 
 
CirAUAf'TKRS. 
 
 noi 
 
 most approved I'aHhion ; others the liningH ; while thoKo 
 who had the advantage of sisters had learned to go 
 througli the more eritical part of rutting out the dress. 
 'J'ho breadths were " run up," skirts drawn in, body 
 stitched together, sleeves sewn on, piped, and trimmed 
 with ribbon of the same colours ; flounces on some, and 
 the dresses complete and tried on, giving entire satisfac- 
 tion, of course. The caps were made. Some feather 
 flowers, purchased from tho nuns at Madeira, and a lock 
 or two of hair (old valued ndics), were the principal 
 trimmings of the maid's cap, while white Manilla rope 
 formed those of the aged lady. U'ith tho assistance of 
 lace, habit-shirts, white and red paints, mud boots, wad- 
 ding, and other artificial means of puffing, the ladies' 
 dresses may bo said to have been complete — and this 
 was a great weight off our minds. 
 
 And we were now to have our first dress rehearsal ! 
 
 The females were attired in the following manner : — 
 The youvg heroine, a white clear muslin, long green 
 silk scarf, red sash, ringlets of dyed Manilla rope, dress 
 trimmed with blue ribbon, looked well. 
 
 The elderly lady. — Blue muslin, trimmings blue, 
 white lace habit shirt, a pillow for a bustle, other pad- 
 dings of wool, no petticoat, white lace cap, red trim- 
 mings, Manilla rope curls (natural colour), mud boots, 
 chequered blue apron, trimmed with red, long sleeves, 
 and peak to dyed dress. 
 
 Lady's maid (who had already been christened by 
 the vulgar appellation of " Sal Gash"), — red muslin, 
 trimmed with white lace ; ditto Tiabit-shirt ; bustle, made 
 of three yards of No. 1 canvas, stretched with a rib of 
 
 I: 
 
i 
 
 302 
 
 THE "OETTINO UI'." 
 
 1.1 
 
 whalebone ; blue spotted apron, trimmed with red ; long 
 white socks and sandals; white lace "fly away;" cap 
 trimmed with white satin ribbon ; ringlets (once the 
 property of a Panamanian belle), and a sprig of myrtle 
 from a convent at Madeira. Faces of all rouged and 
 whitened, as necessary ; and, as the dresses were " low," 
 all felt rather cool about the neck and shoulders in the 
 "Arctic regions." 
 
 The dresses of some of the other characters were a 
 choice medley. First dress : — One had on a marine's 
 jumper, Yankee axe, Russian boots and corderoys, ruddy 
 face. Second dress : — Tights and silk stockings ; silver 
 buckles on low shoes ; a three-cornered hat ; ruffles and 
 black coat; a well-powdered wig; white cravat, and 
 gold-headed cane. 
 
 Another had on black holland tights, black coat and 
 ruffles, powdered wig, silver buckles. 
 
 Ttvo servant lads. — Black holland jackets, trimmed 
 with the gay border of a new pocket handkerchief, 
 white and red neck ties ; top boots and corderoys ; hat 
 and Turkish cap ; and white stockings, &c., &c., &c. 
 
 All now went through their respective part& 
 
 The " getting up " and " painting " was good amuse- 
 ment When "Sal," as she had now been familiarly 
 called, was getting painted, some one exclaimed, " Qo it, 
 Sal, ril hold your bonnet ! " " You look like a pointer !" 
 says another, meaning a " north pointer." " Shut your 
 eyes," says one, *' while I give you black eyebrows and 
 moustache." The unconscious fellow shut his eyes; 
 and, the cork having been just taken from the lighted 
 candle, was burning, and back went his head against a 
 
 4i 
 
FIRST UKHKAllSAL. 
 
 303 
 
 Go it, 
 Iter!" 
 
 |t your 
 rsand 
 eyes; 
 
 tghted 
 
 teak beam, which he acknowledged the hardest. The 
 row by this time brought our amiable captain among us, 
 who was as much delighted as any. In one part of the 
 play, where the heroine leans on her lover and " be- 
 seeches him not to go to the wars," to which he was 
 about to reply, we all roared ! No one could contain 
 himself. And this finished our first rehearsal. 
 
 A grand opening night next followed, considering our- 
 selves competent to perform before an audience. Play- 
 bills were issued to this effect, and also announced that 
 the doors would be open at half-past six, and the per- 
 formance would begin precisely at seven, »,nd no admit- 
 tance behind the scenes. The company eJso ** regretted 
 that the latenesf of the seas<»i, and the urgent demands 
 for them elsewhere, would prevent them from protracting 
 their stay beyond a fortnight, at the farthest." 
 
 The performance did commence at seven o'clock 
 exactly, the band, consisting of two violins, three flutes, 
 and a drum, playing the national anthem, "Qod save 
 the Queen;" after which, in compliment to our worthy 
 chief, "Garry Owen;" at the termination of which the 
 curtain rose, and wo were before a public audience. 
 
 The piece went on well, and very naturally. ** Our 
 star" carried the pal;n. His action and performance 
 was perfect, especially where he was endeavouring to 
 convince the footmen (who were drubbing him) that he 
 was not what they imagin.^ he was. Next to him, the 
 " Elderly Lady " did her part well ; she had the " brass 
 of a coal-box ;" the song was excellent. A song im- 
 promptu — "Rolling Mary" — ^brought forth great applause. 
 When "Sal's" part commenced, she had to leave her 
 
li ..! ; 
 
 li ^' 
 
 lun 
 
 Tin: FINISH. 
 
 musical instrument (for she was also une of the band) 
 anil rush into the steerage and dress herself, and when 
 " done up " found she had for{»otten the portion that gives 
 symmetry to the figure, and had to return and replace it. 
 She was late for entrance, but, by being so, it fortunately 
 happened that the effect was much l>etter, for, instead of 
 one applause for the lady and her maid, they had one 
 each, 
 
 A box of boluses was presented by the doctor to the 
 maid " to take hourly " — but if she had opened the box 
 on the stage she must have indulged in hysterical 
 laughter, for the pills were as large as nutmegs, and 
 rolled in flour. The Elderly Lady forgot her " prunella 
 boots " in the hurry of dreasing, and her flushing trou- 
 sers were observed. 
 
 It ended ! All went off with snreat ScJat. The audi- 
 ence sat for more — a convincing proof it was amusing. 
 A jovial supper in the midi.ipmen s mess, at which all 
 were kind enough to come, even including our beloved 
 skipper, all in character, until half-past twelve finished 
 our evening scene. Tluis did our theatricals assist, not 
 only to pass time for ourselves, but for our shipmates. 
 
 I have already given a brief account of our perform- 
 ance before a Russian audience, and will not occupy time 
 by repeating it. But our next attempt was on the second 
 voyage north, when our season was longer, our time con- 
 sequently heavier, and a larger audience to amuse. 
 
 The scenes had all to be repainted, for, as we were not 
 certain of again coming north, they had been thrown 
 aside, and, being chalk colours, were entirely effaced. 
 However, all set to work "hand and heart," and our 
 
 M> 
 
ANOTHKK A«T, 
 
 3i>r> 
 
 t, not 
 
 scenes wero again ready. They now consisted of an 
 apartment in lodgings, the exterior of an inn, a captain's 
 apartment in the inn, and an old barn on a common 
 (moonliglit). 
 
 It was now necessary to have four females, and it re- 
 quired some ingenious cutting and contriving to change 
 dresses from the last. One was a respectable widow in 
 second mourning, a landlady, a servant-maid, and a bar- 
 maid 
 
 The Widow was attired in a black velvet skirt 
 (originally intended for a shooting coat) tacked to a 
 body oi black cloth (made from an old black coat), a 
 muff and boa made of fox skins, a chequered shawl, a 
 bonnet made by a quartermaster, cut out by a clerk, 
 trimmed and covered by a mate (Royal Navy), bonnet 
 boxes and luggage complete. 
 
 The Landlady, a second mourning cotton dress, long 
 sleeves and flounces ; a pretty under-shawl, a lace cap, 
 silk apron ; and certainly this female attire became its 
 possessor's round, blooming face to a nicety, and he made 
 a fine plump landlady, splitting with laughter ! 
 
 The maid and barmaid's dresses were those worn on a 
 former occasion, with some trifling additions and altera- 
 tions. 
 
 The Hero of the Farce was dressed in a first-class 
 marine's jacket, mounted with two navy scales to set it 
 off, and the wearer had to be put through the operation 
 of " bracing up" and " easing off" as his part of the play 
 came round, the coat being very tight and uncomfortable. 
 He wore a pair of naval dress trousers, a broafl red sash 
 t<) cover the vacancy caused between the jacket and 
 
p 
 
 306 
 
 THE HEROINE. 
 
 trowsers, and a huge pair of silver spurs, made and 
 brightened up from a biscuit canister, a cap stuck on 
 three liairs, the chinstay resting on his upper lip, with 
 a profuse moustaclie, an eyo-ghiss suspended from a 
 button-hole, and a pair of white doeskin gloves. 
 
 A poacV.er was made up of an old shooting coat, 
 red belcher, w^hite rabbit-skin hat, check waistcoat, cor- 
 duroys, blucher boots, and grey purser's stockings, a 
 stick, a bundle, and a hare ; everything belonging to 
 different ownera, but in which he looked well indeed. 
 Other dresses of many devices. 
 
 In going through the rehearsal we enjoyed ourselves 
 much ; indeed, these are the only parts the actors enjoy. 
 It is rather serious than otherwise, when the curtain 
 rises and leaves you to the gaze of a multitude ; then it 
 is their enjoyment, not yours ! I am sure the " hero " 
 will do his part admirably ; and the widow, when she 
 imploringly says, "My name is Emma," you cannot, 
 for the life of you, resist a downright laugh. It is too 
 absurd 1 
 
 We had been waiting long for a fine evening to per- 
 form our second " theatricals." It low arrived ; and the 
 vessels being in company, we were iivoured by the pre- 
 sence of all who could be spared ; and now our audience 
 included the " Heroine of Point Barrow." 
 
 The play-bills were issued, neatly printed on blue 
 and red papers, and we were to be patronised by all the 
 nohilify and gentry of the surrounding neighbour- 
 hood. A preamble was necessary, in which "the com- 
 pany, in returning thanks to the public in general for 
 the unlimited patronage they met with at their last visit 
 
I'LAY BILLS. 
 
 ](>7 
 
 our- 
 
 to this country, had now the satisfaction of making tliein 
 aoqnainted with the foUowinf; particulars : — 
 
 " In the period intervening sirir^e h>st season, improve- 
 ments have been made which n'ust tend to the comfort 
 of the audience. Tlie dresses, tliinmli not nitom'ther 
 new, have undergone a thorough {Kl.'iptation, and the 
 splendid decorations of this estal)lislinunt have since last 
 year been replaced by etiibellishmcnts of a more mag- 
 nificent and costly description. 
 
 *♦ The scenery and proscenium have been newly 
 painted, and it is hoped that the effect it produces will 
 display the skill and Judgment of the artist. 
 
 " Tlie orchestral arrangements ha\e, from unavoidable 
 causes, been the subject of great anxiety. The a))lest 
 that can be procin'ed have engaged, both in stringed and 
 wind instruments, to attend ; the music when heard i}ia>/ 
 be appreciated, but can never be described. 
 
 " The terms of admission scarcely n^piiro notice, it 
 will be sufficient to say that they are on the same liberal 
 scale as they were last season ; the aim of the proprie- 
 tors being rather to secure pleasure and satisfaction to 
 the spectators than profit to themselves. 
 
 " Doors open at seven, performances commence at 
 half-past seven precisely, and no admittance behind the 
 scenery." 
 
 It occupied all that day adjusting and regulating the 
 scenery, which, being new and double in quantity of 
 our last, and a more extensive audience to witness it, 
 required more care and time. 
 
 Exactly at the before-named hour the bell rang, the 
 audience arrived— officers and men from the " Arctic 
 
 X 2 
 
 I 
 
l; 
 
 ill 
 
 '4 
 
 308 
 
 THK HERO. 
 
 sqiiau/on," the fair " Eloise" and hergunrdiRn — the band 
 playing " Rule Britannia," followed by " Patrick's Day in 
 the Morning !" The band on this occasion had the 
 ad('ition of a picolo and a tambourine, and during the 
 evening performed twenty- one popuhxr airs, as well as 
 the Koy.d Irish Qiuulrilles, selections from Mozart, 
 " Awav with Melancholy," "Auld Lang Svnc," con- 
 eluding with '* God Save the Queen I" 
 
 The whole play was got through (notwithstanding 
 many difficulties to contend against) with much echitf 
 and to the entire gratification of the audience. 
 
 The dress of the "fat landlady" caused much laughter, 
 it was ridiculous in the extreme. The " waiter," all 
 acknowledged to be a " pieman." The " Contraban- 
 dista" was a uiiluve, but was he reason of great merri- 
 ment ; \x\z brceks (which were made of black holland) 
 %vere so tight that he could not stoop to pick up the 
 bouquet of his fair charmer, and did not think of prac- 
 tising the stoop before entering on the stage ; he was 
 afraid of bursting them. The manager did his part 
 well, and the character in the dress I have described as 
 the " /tero*' in the marine's jacket and tin spurs, was 
 admirable ; he was worthy of a grander stage and a 
 larger audience. 
 
 It was delight fiilly encouraging to perceive the 
 cheering smile of our fair friend among the audience, it 
 spurred us on to banish bashfulness. Indeed, before I 
 ventured on the ** stage," I took a strong and powerful 
 potion of — tea? — no — nor coffee, — I forget the name of 
 it, but I fourd it made me ten times more timid, and I was 
 nearly hiccoughing aloud. All ended well. The good 
 
LAST Ari'EARANCK. 
 
 309 
 
 he band 
 5 Day in 
 h.icl the 
 ing the 
 well as 
 Mozart, 
 
 e," con- 
 
 standing 
 ;h I chit f 
 
 iaughter, 
 
 iter," all 
 
 ntraban- 
 
 it merri- 
 
 holland) 
 
 up the 
 
 of prac- 
 
 ; he was 
 
 his part 
 
 ;ribed as 
 
 iirs, was 
 
 e and a 
 
 3ive the 
 lience, it 
 before I 
 powerful 
 name of 
 md I was 
 he good 
 
 natured captain ordered the " main brae? to be spliced," 
 and we retreated in costume to the gua-room, where a 
 supper awaited us. 
 
 The men continued singing until midniglit, when the 
 "grand rounds" interfered; ours did not cease luitil 
 three in the morning — all sang, even our chief, every- 
 body. Our fair visitor, with all the taste and feeling 
 proper for such occasions, sang " Love's Young Dream" 
 — it would have " melted a heart made of paving stones," 
 and " Erin my Countiy" completely mesmerised us all. 
 It was not often we were favoured with so charming a 
 visitor, and her society was therefore much sought after. 
 
 At three, all dismissed, very much fatigued, for all the 
 young fellows had been wooding and watering from 
 before four each morning until seven at night, for five 
 successive days ; therefore we " slept" the remainder of 
 
 that night" without rocking." 
 
 • « • • • 
 
 A day was now fixed for " positively our very last 
 appearance ;" a brief rehearsjil was only necessary. The 
 programme was much the same as on a former occasion ; 
 the " play-bills" were more " spicey," and the decora- 
 tions more " tasty." 
 
 Again we were favoured by the attendance of ail who 
 could bj spared from our Arctic companions ; at the 
 usual hour, " Kule Britannia ;" at the last note of which 
 up rose the curtain, and the farce commenced. 
 
 In describing one of these plays all are illustrated ; 
 and I will not, therefore, waste time or paper in going 
 through all the detail again and again. Suffice it to 
 observe, that the *'?iero" was perfection itself, the 
 
 vr 
 
 r»: 
 
i! 
 
 blO 
 
 SUPPKH. 
 
 knighCs part was admirably pertbrmed, the mavager 
 was loudly cheered, and at the last figure of a co(iuettisli 
 dance the curtain fell, *niid lou<l cheers and cries of " over 
 a^ain," which time would not permit. All retired on 
 fhis occasion to the " cabin," where an impression was 
 scarcely visible on the abundance of everjthing pro- 
 vided for U3 by our generous host. "Connemara 
 lemonade" and songs kept us together until half-past 
 two in the morning, and again the " life of the party" 
 
 charmed us ,vith some of Moore's melodies. 
 
 « « « • « 
 
 " Our meeting, though happy, Avas tinged by a sorrow, 
 To think that such happiness could not remain ; 
 
 While <mr parting, though sad, gave a hope that to-morrow, 
 Would bring back the blest hour of meeting again ! 
 
 So warmly we met," &c. 
 
 Just as we separated it came on to blow hard from 
 N.E., cold and wet ; a boat got adrift from the ship, and 
 I had the unenviable pleasure of hunting all the middle 
 watch for her without success — a pleasant finish to my 
 evening's enjoyment. 
 
 I have but one more brief association in connexion 
 with our " Arctic theatrieuls," and as it was given in 
 return for the few pleasant evenings wo liad afibrded our 
 friends in adversity, it ought in justice to them to find a 
 place here with ours. 
 
 A "masquerade" was decided on for many reasons, 
 but more particularly as some very comical and amusing 
 fellows were among the sailors, whose assistance was 
 necessary, the number of officei*8 being few. All were 
 reqiiested to " come in character." 
 
MASQUERADE. 
 
 311 
 
 This short notice required both activity and ingenuity 
 to prepare, and all day was occupied in putting together 
 the most indescribable dresses for characters, quite 
 original I 
 
 The ** Pickle Cock Woman, from Saltash." No per- 
 son knew who it was, he was so well disguised. For 
 twenty minutes he sat next to one of his own messmates, 
 and he did not know him. During a lull he went round 
 with the jar, tin plates, and pepper-box, complete — 
 " Buy any pickle cocks!" — " By'ny pi-ckle cock." 
 
 Many others were in character, or rather out of cha- 
 racter ! Some had their winter dresses and masks on, 
 and did the Esquimaux well t 
 
 The evening passed both agreeably and pleasantly in 
 dancing and singing. Polkas, quadrilles, reels, and 
 waltzes through the ring- bolts, which vividly brought to 
 recollection dan' ing through the eggs at a fair. We had 
 supper and songs ; songs and supper, alternately, until 
 half-jmst seven next morning 1 Some of the songs, 
 I must say, were not parliamentary. At eight we 
 wished each other a last farewell. It came on to blow a 
 gale from the N.E., the ship stnick heavily on the 
 beach ; and, in returning to our vessel, the passage was 
 exceedingly rough and dangerous, and on several occa- 
 sions the boats nearly filled I 
 
 From these very brief notes it will be seen that such 
 evenings were not only amusing to ourselves but abso- 
 lutely necessary to keep up the spirits of our crew, who 
 had every reason to despond. 
 
 I" 
 
 :k 
 
 i) 
 
^1 
 1^^ 
 
 lir: 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 IIOMKWARU BOUND — FEKLINGS — DOl'UTFUL GROUP — ASSl'MTTION — 
 
 MONSOON — A ClKCl'MNAVUiATOR FORMOSA FISIIINti BOATS 
 
 TIIK PILOT— BOAT WITHOUT "eYb" LOSE A DAY ilONG-KONO 
 
 — ADVANCEMENT — SICKNESS — WHOLESALE SACRIFICE — WEL- 
 COME STEAM TO CANTON INVALIDS — CONVOY PIEDRA 
 
 BRANCA — SINGAPORE — INDIAN OCEAN — A SAD LOSS — SYMPTOM 
 OF A HURRICANE — SIMONS BAY — SENT TO HOSPITAL — DRUNKEN- 
 . NESS — ITS EFFECTS — DECLINING HEALTH — THE PIGEONS. 
 
 i 
 ( 
 
 M 
 
 I I 
 
 13! 
 
 To those only who have been for many years absent 
 from home, from all near and dear to them, can those 
 magic words " homeward bound " touch the heart, and 
 revive tiiou«;ht8 and feelings impossible to be described, 
 or even imagined. We were now actually on our voyage 
 to England ; and although twenty- six thousand miles 
 distant, yet every day, every hour, shortened the space 
 between us. The bare thought of having om- faces 
 once more turned even towards home made us forget our 
 weak and sickly state; and that we should soon again 
 be clasping in our embrace all who are dear to us, magi- 
 cally revived and made us forget, not only our long 
 absence, but all our troubles, hardships, and dangers ! 
 
\;\ 
 
 DOUBTFUL GROUP. 
 
 313 
 
 We purposely |)assed near a group of Islauds, said to 
 exist in 174' E. and 21'' N. (north of Patterson's Group), 
 where the master of a whaler liad reported to us that, 
 having sent one of his boats on shore, three out of five 
 men were murdered hy tlie natives, the fourth tortured 
 by being tied to a tree nakeJ, and small gunpowder darts 
 shot at him, exploding while in the flesh ; the itlh was put 
 aside to be tortured at some other time. We endeavoured 
 all in our [)0wer to discover the islands, although delay- 
 ing us, but to no purpose, they were not anywhere near 
 the positions assigned to them ; and although wrong in 
 the exact position given, the tale was, alas, too true. 
 
 Assumption Island, the most northern of the La- 
 drones, rising out of the sea, like a sugar-loaf, to the 
 lieight of two thousand feet, was passed — a barren, soli- 
 tary, volcanic rock ; its peak was clouded, and we could 
 not say if it was stul an acti . . . oicano, as when visited 
 by Perouse. 
 
 The furious " monsoon " into which we had no " 
 arrived, reduced us to close-reefed sails, many of which 
 were split and shifted. We were rather unprepared for 
 such rough handling, and our boats and sails suffered. 
 In my three previous voyages here I do not recollect 
 ever having such a troubled sea. 
 
 To-day I complete my first voyage round the world, 
 having sailed through every degree of longitude east and 
 west, and doubled both Capes Horn antl Hope. I am 
 therefore privileged to sit on the table, and place both 
 my legs thereon, an indulgence which only those who 
 have circumnavigated the globe are entitled to. 
 
 Passing through the Babhoe Isles, or rather rocks, 
 

 I I 
 
 i, ■■! ■ 
 
 fiii;i:< 
 
 m 
 
 3U 
 
 no AT WITHOUT EYE. 
 
 about six in number, tlie sea became comparatively 
 smooth. "Formosa," the dreaded island where every 
 unfortunate shipwrecked mariner is murdered by the 
 natives, was passed, and next day we found a ^' fresh hand 
 at the bellows."" It was here, in this channel, I was bat- 
 tened down in a small vessel about eight years since, but 
 on the present occasion the sea was not so rough. 
 
 During the night, found ourselves among several hun- 
 dred Chinese fishing-boats in couples, and had much 
 difficulty in clearing them. It was a continual scene of 
 " hard up," " hard down," " hard tliis way," " hard that," 
 and we passed so close to some, that we could plainly hear 
 the fishermen chattering. At daylight a pilot boat was 
 under our quarter, out went the " sampan," and on 
 board came the pilot. All news was eagerly sought 
 after. He informed us that " One large vessel, one 
 piecey steam, one piecey brig," were at Hong-kong. 
 
 Several boats were now seen without eyes; and the 
 reason being asked, they had found out that there was 
 " no occasion for boat got eye. " " Man got eye — can see." 
 
 On the day before arrival at Hong-kong we changed 
 the last day of November for the first of December — 
 liaving gone round the world, we had of course lost 
 twenty-four houi*s; and on our arrival on a Saturday, 
 which was of course with us scrub and wash, and polish 
 brass work, we found all the people going to church 1 
 
 On dropping anchor off Hong-kong, I was amazed at 
 the rapidity with which the town had advanced in eight 
 years. I could hardly believe it possible that a place 
 eighteen thousand miles from Europe could have changed 
 its aspects so quickly, and with such advantage. 
 
 ■' fc 
 
SICKNESS. 
 
 315 
 
 The town presented to us one of substantial elegance, 
 the buildings were large and extensive, the church looked 
 grand, and the Government House a palace; the whole 
 face of the hill was a mass of buildings from West 
 Point, to Jardine, Matheson the opium kings.* 
 
 Although it was Sunday, the whole harbour was in 
 animation, the yachts darting everywhere about, junks 
 and sampans coming out to meet us, and every other new 
 arrival. This was indeed to me a change of scene. 
 
 Alas ! sickness here still prevails. One hundred and 
 fifty of the 55th Regiment died last season, and their re- 
 mains placed with many hundreds in that one common 
 grave, " Happy Valley." Two captains had died a short 
 time since, and the morning after our arrival another. 
 We follow his remains to " Happy Valley." A colonel 
 of artillery followed him very shortly after. 
 
 An American corvette welcomed us by a champagne 
 breakfast, the smartest and cleanest corvette on the 
 station. They tell us a sad tale ; that, while at anchor 
 at Macao, a day or two since, a large Portuguese frigate 
 lay close to them, and while in the act of saluting, she 
 blew up, with from six to seven hundred persons on 
 board. Only one remained alive to tell the awful tale. 
 The corvette's awnings, which were spread at the 
 time, were covered with blood and scattered remains ; 
 the guns blew over her mast-head ; iron bolts and frag- 
 ments fell on board her. No one could tell how it 
 occurred. Some imagined it to be the act of a China- 
 man ; it was, to say the very least, a horrible story. 
 
 * Now, Sir James Matheson, Bart., M.P., the generous and 
 much respected Laird of Lews Castle, Storaoway. 
 
 
31G 
 
 THE f'oNVOY. 
 
 
 
 1 liree steamers proceed to Canton eveiy other day, 
 returuinjT the next ; and this Jifforded a good opportu- 
 nity for those who had not seen the " Celestial City." I 
 did not avail myselt' of it, as T know it and the river well 
 on former occasions. 
 
 Our stay at this place was short. We were already 
 weak and sickly, and had every reason to dread the 
 Hong kon^ fover; and also knew, that if it once seized 
 us, we had not the power or stamina to resist it, and 
 therefore very prudently sailed as soon as circumstances 
 permitted. Advantage was taken to send all the in- 
 valids to England, and when arranged, we sailed, having 
 under convoy a trading junk, which last voyage fell 
 into the hands of pirates, and was robbed of everything ; 
 they were blown to pieces afterwards by two of our 
 vessels, and since that the Chinese, who are pirates or 
 fishermen, as convenient, have cried vengeance on our 
 convoy. She was very glad, therefore, to sail in our wake. 
 
 The sailor's guide to Singapore Roads, Horsburgh 
 Lighthouse, on Piedra Branca, is a grand beacon ; this 
 was erected by the East India Company, to commemo- 
 rate that great navigator in these seas. 
 
 Singapore had improved, and also increased rapidly, 
 being the high road to China. Our stay here was also 
 very limited. We were all anxiety to "be off," to 
 shorten our homeward voyage. Passing through Mac- 
 clesfield Straits, with no little anxiety for the safety of 
 our old vessel, we again passed " Pulo Leat," the fatal 
 spot where the '.* Alceste " frigate was wrecked, on her 
 return from the embassy to China, and of which I have 
 before made mention. 
 
A SAD LOSS. 
 
 317 
 
 I 
 
 tther day, 
 
 opportu- 
 
 City." I 
 
 river well 
 
 'o already 
 Ircad the 
 ICC seized 
 it it, and 
 i instances 
 i the in- 
 d, having 
 yage fell 
 jrything ; 
 of our 
 urates or 
 } on our 
 ur wake, 
 orsburgh 
 on ; this 
 Unmenio- 
 
 rapidly, 
 was also 
 off," to 
 h Mac- 
 Kifety of 
 he fatal 
 , on her 
 I have 
 
 The Straits of Sitnda were cleared in safety, and we 
 found ourselves on the wide Indian Ocean, t.iking care 
 to make every yard of canvas do its duty, to slufrten, by 
 every means in our power, tlic few months that must 
 now elapse hefon; we breiithe those siiths which years 
 have not forgotten, ^\'ords want power to trace and 
 confess our feelings at this .iioment. 
 
 The Keelings or CV)cos were just in sight, when all 
 had again to deplore the loss of an accomplished and 
 sincere friend and messmate. It was ini])ossible that so 
 long and arduous and trying a voyage could have been 
 accomplished except by i)ow<!rful constitutions. The 
 wefik, of course, gave way finst ; but, among jdl who have 
 been torn from us, no loss can be more deplored than the 
 present. A cold was taken in our last voyage north, 
 and it never left him ; nature became exhausted, and he 
 gradually sank, regretted by all those who had been his 
 messmates, now six years. 
 
 I was, myself, very ill at the time, and was lying 
 close to him in my cot, when, about midnight, I heard 
 the death-rnttlc in his throat, and in a few moments his 
 heart had ceased to beat. 
 
 Next day his remains were committed to the deep. 
 I was too ill to pay the la.st tribute of respect to his 
 memory ; indeed, I hardly knew how soon I miyht be 
 following him. 
 
 It is tndy distressing to he cut off at a moment when 
 all trials and troubles appear to be over, and when the 
 anticipation of " home " is brightening us up ; occurring 
 at the commencement of a voyage, with all our hanLships 
 in perspective, we do not think so much of; l)Ut now he 
 
 f^^ 
 
 I, 
 
 S; I 
 
318 
 
 A HUHRICANF. 
 
 leaves hcliind mnny to ro^jrot tin* loss of an aml.jlilc 
 messmate, and a siiirero and attarhtMl friend. 
 
 My health was still on the decline ; and, uri)>lea.''nnt 
 as it was to me, I was placed in the same spot where onr 
 estimable messmate had just hreathed his last. There 
 was room nowhero else. JJut I still trusted in lliin 
 whoso finger had been my guardian through innumerable 
 (langers, and I fre<piently and fervently prayed that 11 o 
 would still bo with me. 
 
 On passing the Mauritius, there was every symptom 
 of the approach of a hurricane, and it appeared to us 
 fated that our old ship could not commence her seventh 
 year without some visitation. The barometers fell very 
 low, as mnch as one-tenth in a few minui.d. All sail 
 was shortened ; topgallant masts and yards sent on deck, 
 and the masts secured, and we waited anxiously our 
 doom. The wind came in fearful gusts ; the lurid glare 
 all over the heavens wa frightful ; and the scud, close 
 over our mastheads, passed with rapidity. 
 
 " O, there's a holy culm profound 
 111 awe like this, that ne'er wn» given 
 
 To pleasure's tiirlll ; 
 'Tis as a solemn voice from heaven, 
 And the soul, listening to the sound, 
 
 Lies mute and still." 
 
 In the evening the barometers stood still, the wind 
 more steady, and the weather settled. The danger had 
 passed. We were on the outer edge of the hurricane, 
 and thus escaped a peril so dreaded by sailors in these 
 regions, and at this very season. 
 
 Our voyage to the Cape was long and tedious — nearly 
 
HOSPITAL. 
 
 319 
 
 two raoiitlis— noverthclesa wo were thankful for havinji 
 at last arrived safely. 
 
 The general ai>|)«'arnnce of Simon's Bay and town had 
 much improved durinf^ an ahsence of seven years. 
 Several now huildinrrs had hoon erected, many enlarged, 
 and the arranj^erncnts of the ^'ardcns and grounds 
 around them very picas! nfj; this was added to hy our 
 hiiving a large store shij), or depot, nn'ored in the bay. 
 
 I was one of the number of sick ordered to the 
 hospital, to recruit during our stay here, and, having 
 been placed under the care of an old and much esteemed 
 messmate, I had every prospect of recovering, suffi- 
 ciently to undertake the remaining porti(ui of the 
 
 vovage. 
 
 There is not a doubt but " Drunkenness is the root 
 of all evil " on board a ship. If we carefully analyze 
 every error, every fault that is committed, we can trace 
 it to a propensity for liquor ; if a robbery, it is either 
 done under the influence of spirits, or in an endeavour 
 to get at it. Mostly all accidents (and I have witnessed 
 some heartrending ones) are attributable to dnmkenness ; 
 insolence, which can never be tolerated in a well-disci- 
 plined vessel, may be generally traced to inebriety ; to 
 drunkenness may be traced desertion and leave-breaking. 
 Murders and other heinoiis offences are mostly com- 
 mitted while labouring under intoxication ; and now we 
 lose one of our best petty officers by a fall down the 
 fore hold while in a state of dnmkenness, a steady, 
 faithful person, who has ju.st commenced his seventh 
 year with us ; but when his love for spirits masters him, 
 he is gone ! He has now paid the forfeit bv his life. 
 
I 
 
 1. 
 
 n2o 
 
 bnUNKKNNKSS. 
 
 An«l while I sit in my lutspitiil window, liis fnnernl 
 piisscs Ity ! 
 
 What a tempting ami onticin<ij svrvico ours would be, 
 if we could do away with spirits ; if men could but be 
 made to resist the temptation of drinking to excess ! 
 Tdvtotal Hociefies are bad ! men do not hke recording 
 their names among a h)ng Hst of reformed (h'unkiu'ds, 
 who are conipelKnl to make a jih'dgc to Have themselves. 
 Some take the first opportunity to <lriid«, and are always 
 longing until satisfied ; but if we coidd ap])eal to their 
 good sense, their feelings, and have no sjiirits m our 
 ships, we should then havts no Hogging, no pimishmentfl, 
 no stopping leave ; all would be pleasure and comfort, 
 and the service would bo then, indeed, inviting. 
 
 Thero is no doubt but drunkenness is fast on the 
 decline, from the strict yet necessary regulations now in 
 force, and from the quantity being reduced to half the 
 allowance; but still wo have intoxication, which leads to 
 crime and consequent punishment. How, then, can wo 
 entirely stop it ? 
 
 What credit would be due to any one, and what an 
 inward consolation to himself, if he could but devise a 
 method for suppressing drunkenness in her Majesty's 
 service ! No monument could be erected of sufficient 
 magnitude to hold forth to the world such a benefit, and 
 do suBicient honour to the originator. Often have I 
 thought, and as often failed, and many wiser heads than 
 mine have done the same. What benefits, what 
 blessings would arise, what hundreds of lives would be 
 saved, and what thousands of wives and children would 
 be saved from mourning widows and distressed families I 
 
 II 
 
 t 
 1! 
 
i)urNKi"Nxi;ss. 
 
 321 
 
 funeral 
 
 I'ould be, 
 1 but be 
 excess ! 
 oconling 
 utikards, 
 'ins«'Iv«'s. 
 •e always 
 I to tlieir 
 s III our 
 8lunciit8, 
 comfort, 
 
 ; on tlic 
 
 8 now in 
 
 half the 
 
 leads to 
 
 can we 
 
 vvliat an 
 devise a 
 flajcsty's 
 luffieient 
 efit, and 
 have I 
 ds than 
 what 
 ould be 
 n would 
 amilies ! 
 
 If an ainiunl stutistical account were drawn up ol' tiio 
 nmnhcr of cases of drunkenness, the erinio ronimitted 
 during moments of intemperance, the piniishnutnt eon- 
 seqiiont on this orinie, the number of accidents, deaths, 
 injuries, Siv., and tlio conse(|uent residt of mourning, dis- 
 tress, want, and starvati<»n caus(>d by these* deatiis ; this 
 freely circulated through every vessel of war, and indeed 
 all ships, I caimot but think it would impress itself 
 deeply on every true-hearted sailor; and he would in 
 time, when these nidiappy occurrences took place before 
 his eyes, see tlie folly and madness of intemperance, not 
 only in his present temporal state, but in that of eternity 
 to come. 
 
 I might go on page after page dilating on the innti- 
 merable follies and ruination of drunkenness, but it 
 would not be fair to my young readers, who have been 
 no doubt already wearied and unprepared for so long 
 a yarn on this unpleasant subject. Hut when they have 
 witnessed as numerous sad conscfjuences aa I have of 
 boats capsiicing, drowning whole crews, leaving widows 
 and children to mourn and starve ; men falling over- 
 board and drowning, falling down from aloft and dashing 
 their brains out ; deserting, and leaving years of service 
 and pay behind them ; and all these having mothers, 
 wives, sisters, and children wholly depending on them 
 for their daily food — then my young reader will thifik 
 with me, that in no cause could he devote himself more 
 creditably or beneficially to his servicre than by endea- 
 vouring to supply a remedy against this fearful evil. 
 
 We all again embarked nuich improved in health and 
 spirits, and found ourselves again "rolling down to St. 
 
 Y 
 
322 
 
 DECLINING UEALTU. 
 
 Helena." Much indebted to a clean and healthy hospi- 
 tal, a kind and tender doctor, with gentle yet nourishing 
 food, tor being made sufficiently strong to undertake the 
 voyage ; but our sickness had made so deep an inroad 
 on our constitutions, that it ^Yould take a very long time 
 before we could be entirely well. 
 
 Twelve days brought us to Napoleon's late exile, St. 
 Helena. Nothing having occurred on the passage, but 
 on passing a brig two pigeons left her, and remained 
 with us as passengers until our arrival here, when they 
 returned to their own home. 
 
 ';" I, 
 
tliy hospi- 
 lourishing 
 irtako the 
 m inroad 
 ong time 
 
 exile, St. 
 isage, but 
 remained 
 Ijen they 
 
 CHAPTER LAST. 
 
 8T. HELENA — ASCENSION IM.I. — Arrii>ENT — AI.niON 8 SHORES — 
 FEELINGS — LETTERS — rROMOTION — THE DIABY — 1 HINT — 
 FAREWELL. 
 
 As we were compelled to remain here for three days, I 
 was determined to see as niucli of this interesting island 
 as possible. My former visits having been .short, I had 
 not opportunities. 
 
 I unfortunately got into the most extravagant hotel in 
 the place, " The St. Helena," which was objectionable 
 for more reasons than this one. 
 
 I rode over the whole island, to Longwood, Hut's 
 Gate, Sandy Bay, and lastly, to Rupert's Valley, where 
 I saw 375 slaves in their innocent simplicity, encamped, 
 under capital management, in clean huts. They turned 
 out and danced their natis'^e dance, and gave me three 
 cheers for some presents I had (listributed among them ; 
 and altogether, their superintendent deserves much 
 credit for his admirable arrangements. They had been 
 taken in different slavers, and were now waiting a passage 
 to their native countrv, Africa. 
 
 \ '1 
 
32i 
 
 ASCENStON. 
 
 I' 
 
 Tlic anchor was ajjaiu " tossed up"; we hade adieu to 
 8t. Jwmes' Valley, (iood-hye, extravagant Mrs. Ij., may 
 we never see yon a^ain ! Adieu, Dummies, Mumkieif 
 and the Lumkies; a long story mi^ht be told of you, 
 and all the scandal, which does not lose any by being 
 passed tVom house to house between you. Adieu, then 
 — a last adieu I 
 
 On arrival at Ascension, by the hosj»itality and good- 
 nature of a Gornrnor whom all know, and all who have 
 the privilege of knowinf», idolise ; I was supplied with the 
 means of reachin<^ " Orcen Mount." It is impossible to 
 imagine so great a contrast existing on the same island 
 without seeing it — fi'om a suid)urnt cinder, you arc 
 transported to a cool and pleasant evergreen. 
 
 The Commodore's cottage, on the summit of the 
 island, is surrounded by gardens and green shrubs; 
 the ravines are alive with rabbits ami Guinea-fowl ; 
 the atmosplu're clear and cool, and twelve degrees 
 lower in tempi'iature than the town ; altogether 
 ])resenting a scene as unlike the rest of the island 
 as it is possible to imagine. In the Commodore's 
 room we made a hearty luncheon, having the key of the 
 cellar, in which were cool sherry, ale, and porter ; a scroll 
 through " Love Lane" (alone), and a trip to the com- 
 fortable hospital to see an old messmate, passed an after- 
 jiMon, and I was very loth to leave these scenes of verdure 
 and luxuriance, for the dusty, hot, sunburnt town of lava 
 and cinders. 
 
 A\'e dined and passed an agreeable evening with the 
 hospitable, kind, and g«Mierous-hearted Governor and 
 f 'oniiutidore. 
 
 r 
 
AN A»'( idi;nt. 
 
 3i2:> 
 
 the 
 
 Arorc invalids wore cmnimed into tis; an<l our ship 
 was now certainly an "liospital" adrift, floating about 
 and endeavouring to resuscitate unfortunates in their last 
 stages of life, by change of air. The anchor was again 
 weighed — for the IcLst time. 
 
 Several vessels were passed and spoken witli, but from 
 none did wo get any important, or even interesting news. 
 Passing through the Azores, we struck a porpoise, which 
 was indeed a treat ; our provisions were already getting 
 both short and bad, boiling away in cooking to less than 
 half their weight. 
 
 Before arriving in the Channel, the invalids from 
 China and the Coast of Africa were the best-looking 
 and most healthy men in the vessel ; they lookeil 
 strong and robust when ])l:iced in contrast by our 
 poor follows, who had undergone such changes and 
 extremes of climate — now in their seventh year. 
 
 An vai fortunate accident occurred to one of the boys, 
 while reefing tlic mi/en-topsail. lie fell from the yard 
 on the poop — horribly mangled I VVh«u I looked in his 
 face, I really did not know who it was; I could recijgnize 
 no feature. This was the second, under exacl-ly similar 
 circumstances. 
 
 On nearing the Channel, with a pleasant W.N.W. 
 wind, and lots of company, vessels of all rigs and sizes, 
 our first indication of land was off the Irish coast, when 
 we rounded to and sounded, in eighty fatiioins, bringing 
 up *'fine sand and slu-lls." We gazed even on these 
 particles of tlu' shores <)( Eur'>p(; with d^'light, considering 
 ourselves now fairly within reach of our homes, and could 
 think of nothlpg else. At daylight next morning, beheld 
 
326 
 
 ALIUONS BirOKES. 
 
 the Scilly Isl.iiids ! Our eyes were rivettetl to the spot ; 
 we could lifU'dly believe tliut we were gazing on Albion's 
 shores. To describe the joy all felt would be impossible. 
 Al'ter an absence of six long years, wundoring over one 
 hundred and twenty thousand miles of water (five times 
 the circumference of the globe), pissing through every 
 degree of longitude, and from 60' South latitude to 73° 
 North, really made us feel overjoyed at the prospect of 
 being so near home. West country weather, of course, 
 welcomed us — thick, misty, jind rainy — but towards 
 sunset the veil was lifted, and a lovely evening presented 
 to our view the well-known port of Plymouth. 
 
 The scenes of my boyish days — of my happy wander- 
 ings, when care was but a name — my ever-meraorablo 
 launch on the ** wide worlil of waters" — all passed before 
 mo in an instant, the most i)leiisurablo sensations ima- 
 ginable ! 
 
 I could plainly see my old school-house, ••' Windsor," 
 where many a day I had })layed the truant, whore 
 many a night I tixcited my bedroom friends to riot and 
 mischief. A little farther to the westward, the cupola 
 of a public building reminded me of the happy days in 
 Plymouth Hospit-al, and where even then my boyish pro- 
 pensities did not leave me. 
 
 As we ran rapidly towards " Start Point," I could even 
 trace the pleasant walks, the happy hours, and almost 
 imr< (iae I saw in spirit the happy faces vitii .vhom I've 
 wandered — rashly promising all manner of improbable 
 and impoa.>ible things (without thought of the conse- 
 quences), which I knew never would, nor never could 
 happeri. 1 could soc- myself, in imagination, proudlv 
 
 
 '. f 
 
 I ' 
 
' 
 
 feelings! 
 
 327 
 
 
 pacing the first "quarter-deck" I had ever placed my 
 foot on, taking, now and tlion, a sly look at my shining 
 dirk and buttons, with the air and satisfaction of a young 
 sea officer. 
 
 These days have all now passed and gone, hut th'^y 
 recur to me with a pleasure not easily described. They 
 are still fresh in haj)py memory, and more so from hav- 
 ing been recorded daily in my Midshipman's Duuy. 
 
 We had now taken our pilot, and were running through 
 the Needles as fast as a " Kyde steamer," blowing almost 
 a gale from S.W. 
 
 A large SfpiaJron lay at Spithead, a novel sight for us. 
 On passing one, she kindly incjuired what ship wo were ? 
 We had been so long absent, the pilot had never even 
 heard of our name. We nearly ran down the Admiral- 
 Superintendent in his yacht; and, wlien on the point of 
 rounding-to to let go our anchor, uj) went the signal from 
 the flag-ship, "40iGco. K.G.F.," which, being trans- 
 lated, means " Proceed immediately to Chatham." This 
 reception could not bo termed warm or cordial after so 
 long an absence ; but wc knew tlio <juicker there, the 
 sooner free. All sail was again made ! 
 
 While "wearing," the spiro of St. Thomas' Church, 
 the South Sea Koonis, the Dockyard, all in rotation 
 reminded mo of l)ygone days. At each of these had 
 scenes occurred, some years since, that could never be 
 forgotten. Those friends, where are they now? Scat- 
 tered all over the world, never to be seen, or perhaps met 
 again. I therefore turued my back on Portsmouth 
 without much sorrow or regret. 
 
 We had not yf't been ahh' fo '^cnd <>tie line to our 
 
I' 
 
 328 
 
 LKTTERS. 
 
 
 friends, to announce our arrival, or say we were alive. 
 On passing "Beechy Head," however, a Deal pilot-boat 
 afFordetl us that opportunity, and gave our most anxious 
 frientls a shor'u note. 
 
 Our sliin was towed into Sheer, ess by two powerful 
 steam-tugs, in the midst of a north-west gale. All our 
 sick, fifty-two in number, were sent to the hospital. Poor 
 fellows, what delight they left the ship with ; they had 
 improved in health from the eft'ect of inhaling their 
 mother climate, but many of them were beyond all hopes 
 — walking spectres, only held together by Nature's last 
 impulse. 
 
 The anchor was scarcely let go when the letter-bag 
 
 arrived on board. I had been exactly one year and eight 
 
 months without a letter. I did not know whether all 
 
 my friends may be dead or alive. I eagerly tore open 
 
 my letter. " Thank God ! " I exclaimed ; " not only 
 
 alive, but * all well.' " Not so, I grieve to say, with many 
 
 others. 
 
 Letters lay unclaimed, unopened, for those long 
 
 since committed to the deep sea — mouldered away to 
 dust, or torn to fragments by demons of the ocean ; 
 othei*s expecting letters fi'om those who had ceased to 
 exist. It was a moment of singular uniting of pain and 
 pleasure. 
 
 We werc "nuistered" (that is, our names called over) 
 and inspected by the adniwiil, and (as on every other 
 occasion when going through this ordeal) highly compli- 
 mented on the general etliciency, cleanliness, and disci- 
 pline of the ship. This was exceedingly complimentary 
 and gratifying to all, but the ciedit was wholly due to a 
 
 Im 
 
 :'i 
 
MV I'ROMOTKXN*. 
 
 «2D 
 
 kiiul, good-hearted, and generous captain, and to a first 
 lieutenant whose better is not to be found in hor Majesty's 
 service. 
 
 After tliis, tlic sliip was " paid oft," and we, who had 
 been together within tlie small space of a vessel for six 
 years and a half, were now all scattered — perhaps never 
 to meet again ! Such is a sailor's life. 
 
 The mornin*^ before the pendant was hauled down, 
 tlie postman arrived, as usual, with his letters. Among 
 them was an official one for me, v/hich I lost no time in 
 opening, and read as follows:— 
 
 Admiralty, &c. 
 
 Sir, — My Lords Coiniiiissioners of the Admiralty having been 
 pleased to promote you to the rank of Lieutenant, I have to 
 inform you that your commission is with the Chief Clerk of this 
 oflice. 
 
 (Signed) TiiK Skcretaby to tuk Admiralty. 
 
 This is the last notation in my Midshi[>man's Journal, 
 and here must conclude, also, my ** Tales of the Sea." 
 T fear I have trespassed on the patience of my kind young 
 readers, and hardly know what excuse to offer in n»y 
 defence. If I have been the cause of inducing only one 
 to begin and to keep a journal, I have nothing to tear, 
 for then one of my great objects is gained ; but I hope 1 
 shall have induced many. If they had but the shadow 
 of an idea what real pleasure it affords in turning back 
 the leaves of an old journal of events long forgotten, 
 there would be no hesitation ; but no person can exj)ect 
 that pleasure but those who have journals. Begin, then, 
 and keep a journal ; do not say you have nothing to 
 record- -that istho cvfTlasting excuse. Time you have 
 
330 
 
 TIIF, DIARY. 
 
 plenty, and subjects always, if you only look around for 
 them. See what a stupid be<^inninf» I made, when I 
 noted the effec^t of Sam Scott's leap on a poor ** dockyard 
 matey." Sec what a still more dry conunenccment our 
 great type, " IJasil Hall," made, when he recorded 
 having gone to Dcptford in a hackney coach, and, when 
 he got there, " he got out of the coach" ; and many 
 others have just as absurd beginnings. Rut the taato 
 gniduMily yet imperceptibly grows on us; new features 
 attract us, partimilaily when on the " trackless ocean," 
 and we enter into tlu'ir description with delight. 
 
 Things do not strike us all with the same force ; that 
 is, when many are viewing the same scene, there are 
 parts in it which delight and attract some, while on others 
 there is no apj)arent ett'ect ; and this is why we should 
 all keep journals. One wouM record whsit another passed 
 unnoticed ; then what a fund of treasure and knowledge 
 we should bo collecting and storing ; for no peoi)le have 
 the advantages that sailors possess. 
 
 Do, then, my young friends, let me entreat of you, for 
 your own sakes, to keep jom-nals, and they will repay 
 you when your ship " pays oW," or you go on leave 
 among your friends. When you are seated around your 
 drawing-room fire, with all your family and relations 
 caressing you, you will bo able to record your adventures 
 from your journal as correctly and as freshly as if they 
 occurred but yesterday. 
 
 Rut, in advising you to keep a diary, let me, in all 
 sincerity, oflVr you a necessary warning. It is an error 
 you fall into unawares. Never let your remarks be per' 
 f>on(iI, even if in favour of whom you would wish to 
 
A HINT, 
 
 981 
 
 they 
 
 in all 
 error 
 
 Hpeak ; perhaps it may not 1)0 as amiably accepted as 
 you intended it, then both are offended, bnt alwiiys 
 speak rather in praise of any person or thing, than tiie 
 contrary. 
 
 Altli<)U<^li your diary shoidd be lield, strictly speaking, 
 ''private," do not commence or write it with that impres- 
 sion. It must fref|uently be seen when 3'ou are calleil 
 away hurriedly ; many will be curious enough to peniso 
 it, and, should it thus fall into strange hands, you have 
 the satisfaction of knowing that in it you have nothing 
 that you do not mind being made public, and that all 
 you have saiil therein, as a general ride, has bi-en in 
 praise and in favour. Truth shouhl be the gmnd basis 
 of your diary. I do not mean, by truth, the contrary to 
 falsehood; but I mean that incidents shouhl be noted 
 carefully and originally, as they are aecv. They ean 
 always be expanded or end)ellishc(l afterwards, if 
 necessary. 
 
 Never let your journal be one day in arrcar ; if you 
 do, some more interesting occuiTence may take place, and 
 all idea of the former vanish. 
 
 Yoiu' temper and patience will, perhaps, sometimes be 
 tested by those not possessing your determination to keep 
 a journal ; and you may be taunted by such remai'ks as 
 "At it again," "Put me down for a pint," "Button your 
 pockets," and many others. Take them all in good 
 part — you will have the ailvantage by-and-bye. 
 
 There is no doubt a great deal of this advice is qiute 
 unnecessary, and I merely oft'cr it, an I felt I recpiired it, 
 at times, myself, and is really now only intended for the 
 ju rr.n He- heji nil v >•*•. 
 

 1 ■ 
 
 ;J32 
 
 FAUIVVKM.. 
 
 I am now, as you were iiiformcil by tlie very hist note 
 in my Diary, a LiKirTKNANT. I still keep a journal, but 
 it is one on a much more extensive scale — one that I can 
 refer to for information. In it are contained the remarks 
 of " Two Voyages rountl the World," and I promise, if 
 my "scattered leaves" are acceptable, to commence 
 forthwith, and prepare a second volume oi" remarks and 
 incidents which, I hope, will bo found to conibino 
 instruction with amusement. 
 
 gmMl 
 
 LONDON : 
 YATES AND AI.BXANDRU, rillNTKn>i, lliiRSKSIiriK cniritT. I.ITDOATt: UILt. 
 
 l'/ 
 
y lust note 
 )uninl, but 
 that I can 
 le remarks 
 promise, if 
 commence 
 nnrks nnd 
 > combine 
 
 UIU.