IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // / .*^ ..V' , V 4 /A U.s 1.0 I.I 1^128 |2.5 •^ 1^ 12.2 11.25 ■ 1.4 1.6 V] 6^ /i A > > y M Photograpnic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTEP.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ie:«-iueilition to Invermark 1 irst Visit to Dunkeld Second Visit to Dunkeld Opening of the Alierleen V/aterworks Halloween Visit to Floors and the Scotch Border Country Visit to Glenfiddich Unveiling of the Prince's Statue at Balmoral.... A House-warming at the Glassalt Shiel "Juicing ihc Sherp " A Highland " Kirstnin " (Christening) A Second Christening Widow Grant Visit to Inverlrossachs Slieep Clipping Betrothal o' Princess I ouise to the Marquis of Lome DAT* rACB 21 Aug. 1862 I 26 Aug. 1862 3 19 May 1863 4 15 Sept. 1863 5 7 Oct. 1863 9 13 Oct. 1863 15 19 Sept. 1865 24 9 Oct. 1S65 30 I Oct. 1866 46 16 Oct. 1866 63 31 Oct. 1866-7 ■■ 69 20 Aug, 1867 71 24 Sept. 1867 89 15 Oct. 1867 103 1 Oct. 1868 105 21 Oct. 1868 109 24 Oct. 1868 Ill I Nov. 1S68 113 22 Aug. 1869 .. .. 114 I Sept. 1869 116 13 June 1870 148 3 Oct. 1870 130 ifl w t& '*"& X CONTENTS. Communion Sunday at Cratliie The "Spate" Visit to Holyrood and Edinburgh Visit to Dunrobm Dr. Norman Macleod Visit to Inverlochy Home-coming of their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh Departure of the Prince of Wales from Aber- geldic licfoie leaving for India... Visit to Inveraray Highland Funeral Unveiling of ihe Statue of the Prince Consort at Edinburgh Presentation of Colours to " The Royal Scots" Expedition to Loch Maree Visit to Broxmouth Death of Sir Thomas Biddulph at Al;ergeldie Mains Memorial Cross to the Princess Alice, Grand Duchess of Hesse Death of the Prince Imperial Home-coming of their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Connaught His Royal Highness the Dukr of Connauglit's Cairn Visit to the Glen Gelder Sliiel Victory of Tel-el-Kebir and Home-coming of their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Albany Conclusion.. , nATE FACE 13 Nov. 1871 152 11 June 1872 156 13 Aug. 1872 164 6 Sept. 1872 178 March 1 873 209 9 Sept. 1873 23S 29 Aug. 1874 284 17 Sept. 1875 286 21 Sept. 1875 2S9 21 Oct. 1S75 322 17 Aug. 1876 326 26 Sept. 1876 33J 12 Sept 1877 337 23 Aug. 1878 362 28 Sept. 1878 378 22 M.-\y 1879 382 19 June 1879 384 5 Sept. 1879 392 8 Sept. 1879 395 6 Oct. 1879 397 II Sept. 1882 399 406 t^ -ff [& ft LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Poriraii of Her Majesty llie yiieen h. R. H. the Princess Louise A. R. H. the Trincess Hcl,;iia \^ =- " tl. R. H. the Princes; I iealrice 1 g " Udy Jane Churchill I " Mr. John Grant l\iiji 3 " Mr, John lirowu 01 " General Grey gy Sliarp, the ^>neen's Collie 100 ^- 4 er * a --a Caledonia ! thou land of the mountain and rock, Of the ocean, the mist, and the wind— Thou land of the torrent, the pine, and the oak. Of the roebuck, the hart, and the hind ! Thou land of the valley, the moor, and the hill, Of the storm and the proud-rolling wave- Yes, thou art the land of fair liberty still. And the land of my forefathers' grave ! The Ettrick SHEPHERa A nation famed for song and beauty's charms, — Zealouo yet modest, innocent though free ; Patient of toil, serene amidst alarms. Inflexible in faith, invincible in arms. Beaitie's Minstrel. LJ -. i>«t .:;rwa«---sr*''*^..'\.**9«'?^««T.'^.- 1'»'**W*V* <^\r-j^-^ip^~^,<^vrJr*>>\'W: ^ ■>J».-.«.f«s ktr ft Building of the Prince's Cairn. Balmoral, Thursday, August 21, 1862. At eleven o'clock started off in the little pony- cliair (drawn by the Corricnmlzie pony, and led by Brown), Bertie, who had come over from Birk- hall, on foot, the two girls on ponies, and the two little boys, who joined us later, for Craig Loiv- rigan ; and I actually drove in the little carriage to the very top, turning off from the path and following the track where the carts had gone. Grant and Duncan pushed the carriage behind. Sweet Baby (Beatrice) we found at the top. The view was so fine, the day so bright, and the heather so beautifully pink — but no pleasure, no joy ! all dead ! And here at the top is the foundation of the cairn — forty feet wide — to be erected to my '&- -ff -a ( 2 ) precious Albert, which will be seen all clown tlui valley. I and my poor six orphans all placed stones on it ; and our initials, as well as those of the three absent ones, are to be carved on stones all round it. I felt very shaky and nervous. It is to be thirty-five feet high, and the fullow- ing inscription to be placed on it : — TO THE Blil.OYKD MEMORY OF ALBERT, THE GREAT AND GOOD PRINCE CONSORT, RAISED 13Y HIS HROKEN-IIEAKTED WIDOW, VICTOUIA R. AUGUST 21, 1862. " He hfiiif; mnile perfect in a short time (ullii'eil a long time ; l>'or his sou! pleascl the Lord, Therefore hastentil He to take him Away from among the wicked." Wisiloiii of Solonion, iv. ij, 14. Walked down to where the rough road is, anil this first short attempt at walking in the heather shook mc and tired me much. ^9- g] i -tt -ff cB- ( 3 ) Visit to the Old Catrn on the Prince's Diktuday -a Balmoral, Atigtist 26, Ib02. I went out at twelve with the two girls on ponier (I in the little carriage), Bertie on foot. We went to see the obelisk building to His dear memory : Bertie left us there, and we went on round by the village, up Craig-Goxvan, in the little carriage, over the heather till we reached near to the old cairn of 1852. Grant said: "I thought you would like to be here to-day, on His birthday!" — so entirely was he of opinion that this beloved day, and even the 14th of December, must not be looked upon as a day of mourning. " That's not the light to look at it." There is so much true and strong faith in these good, simple people. Walked down by the Fog* House, all pink with heather ; the day beautifully fine and bright. * Scotch for " Moss." ^ ^i ;R- ( 4 ) First Visit to the Prince's Cairn AFTER ITS CoaiPLETION. Balmoral, Tuesday, A fay 19, 1S63. I went out in the little carriage (Donald Stewart leading the pony, as John Brown was unwell) with Lenchen and Dr. R ;rtson (Gr &/• and drove up to the cairn on the top of Crai^ Loiurigaii, which is a fine sharp pyramid admira- bly constructed out of granite without any mortar. The inscription is very well engraved and placed. Th(TC is a good path made up to the top of the hill. -a fl- --^ lQ~"" -li ( 5 ) Visit to Bi.air, 1863. Balmoral, Tuesday, Sepicmdcr 15, 1863. At twenty minutes to eiglit we reached Perth, where wc breakfasted and dressed, and at twenty minutes past nine I left witli Lenchen, Augusta Bruce, and General Grey, for Blair, going past Dnnkcld, where vve had not been since 1844, and which is so beauiifully situated, and Pitlochry, through the splendid Pass of Killiccrankic (which we so often drove throu<;h in 1841), past Mr. Butter's place Faskally, on to Blair, having a distant peep at the entrance to Glen Tilt, and Scliieliallion, whicli it made and makes me sick to think of. At the small station were a few people — the poor Duke's Higldanders (keepers), the dear Duchess Lord Tullibardine, and Captain Drummond oi Ale-'i'tnch. 00 [&- -ff rfl— ■Qj te- ( 6 ) The Duchess was much affected, still more so when she got into the carria5 ) Unveiling of tiik Prince's Statue Ai' Aderdeen. Thursday, October 13, 1863. I was terribly nervous. Longed not to have to go througli tliis fearful ordeal. Prayed for help, and got up earlier. A bad morning. Tlic three younger children (except Baby), William of Hesse,* and the ladies and gentlemen all gone on. I started sad and lonely, and so strange without my darling, with dear Alice, Lenchen, and Louis. We could not have the carriage open. At Aboyne we met Vicky and I'ritz, and both the couples went with me in the railway; the Princes in Highland dress. I felt bewildered. It poured with rain, unfor- tun;itely. To describe the day's proceedings would be too painful and difficult ; but I annex * YoLinLjcst brother of I'rinco Louis of ilesse. tfr -ff fl- ijj ( ,6 ) the account. Vicky and Alice were with me, and tlie long, sad, and terrible procession through th^i crowded b^reets of Aberdeen, where all were kindly, but all were silent, was mournful, and as unlike former blessed times as could be con- ceived. Unfortunatcjly it continued pf)uring. The spot where the Statue is placed is rather small, and on one side close to the bridge, but Maro- chetti chos',! it himself. I got out trembling; and when I had arrived, there was no one to direct me and to say, as formerly, \v!iat was to be done. Oh ! it was and is too painful, too dreadful I I nxeived (only handed) the Provost's address, and knighted him (the first since all ended) with General Grt.y';) sword. Then we all stepped on to the uncovored and wet p'atform dirtclly o|>po- site 'he Statu'-, which ceiiainly is low, and nithcr small for out of doors, but Inie and like. Prin- cipal Campbell's prayer was very long — which was trying in the rain — but part of it (since I have read it) is really very good. I felt very nervous when the Statue was uncovered, but nuich regretted tiiat when they presented arms there was no silute with the 10- -ff & ~*~B] ( 17 ) drums, bii_f,>-lcs, or the pipes, for tho bands below were forbidden to play. I retired almost imme- diately. Just below and in front of where we stood were Lohlein, Majet, Grant, Brown, Cowley, P. Farquharson, D. Stewart, Nestor,* Ross, and Paterson, whom we had brought with us — and why was my darling not near me } It was dreadfully sad. Took a little luncheon in a room upstairs with our girls, our footmen serving us. After this we left as we came. Affie met us there, and then took leave at the station, William of Hesse join- ing him. It was quite fair, provokingly so, when we got to Aboyiic. Here we parted, took leave of Vicky and Fritz, and drove back in an open carriage, reaching Balmoral at half-past six. Very tired ; thankful it was over, but the recol- lection of the whole scene, of the whole journey, without my dear Albert, was dreadful ! Formerly how we should have dwelt on all ! * Lohlein, the Prince Consort's valet. Mayet, the Prince Consort's second valet, then with Prince Leopold. Cowley, the Prince Consort's Jager from 1848, pensioned in 1848, formerly in the Blues. Nestor Tirard, the Queen's hairdresser since 1846. fS- ■ff [fl- ■a ( '8 ) [The following account of the ceremonial is tn,kcn from the " Scotsman " newspaper of October 14, 1863. The preparations made at the North- Eastern Station at Aberdeen for the reception of H°r Majesty and the Princes and Princesses, were very simple and undemon- strative. Two huge flags were suspended across the inside entrance, and the floor of the passage leading into the portico at Guild Street was laid with crimson cloth. The following gentlemen were in waiting at the station, and received the royal party on the platform : The Duke of Richmond ; the Lord Provost and Magistrates ; the Earl of Aberdeen ; Lord Saltoun ; Sir J. D. H. Elphinstone ; Sir Alexander Ranncrman, Bart. ; Lord Barcaple ; Mr. Thomson of ]5anchory ; Colonel Eraser of Castle Eraser ; Colonel Eraser, younger, of Castle Eraser ; Mr. Leslie of Warthill, M.P. ; Mr. Irvine of Drum, convener of the county ; Colonel Earquharson of Invercauld ; Sheriff Davidson ; John Webster, E.sq,, and several of the rail- way directors and officials. On leiiving the station, the procession was formed into the following order, and proceeded by way of Guild Street, Regent Quay, Marischal Street, Castle Street, and Union Street, to the site of the Memorial : — Body of Police. Detachment of Cavalry. The Convener and Master of Hospital of the Incorporated Trades. ng— -ff r- -a 1 ~& { '9 ) The' rilnripal and Professors of the University of Aberdeen. I'he City Arciiitect. His (iiacc the Diitco ul Richmond, the (Jonscncr and SliL-iiff of the County, and the Committee of Sdiiscriijeis to the Memorial. The Lord Provost, and Magistrates, and Town Council. Tiie Suite in .Attendance on Mer Majesty and Royal Family. I.ady Augusta Bruce (in attendance on the Queen). Countess Hohcnthal (in attendance on Crown- Princess). Paroness Schenck (in attendance on Princess Louis of Hesse). Sir George Grey. The Princes Alfred, Arthur, and Leopold. Lady Churchill (I.ady-in-W'aiting). '['he Princess Helen.a. 'i'he Princess Louise. Tiie C'rown- Prince of Prussi.i. The Prince Louis of Hesse. The Princess Louis of Hesse. The Crown- Princess of Prussia. THE QUEEN. Cavalry Escort. The procession wound its way alonj:^ the densely packed streets amid the deepest silence of the asscm- blaf^c, everybody seeming to be animated by a desire to abstain from any popular demonstrations that might be distasteful to Ilcr Majesty. On reaching the Northern Club buildings, I Icr Majesty, accompanied by the Prince and Princesses, Sir Charles Phipps,* Lord Charles h'itz- * Keeper of the Privy Purse, who died February 24, 1866, to my great regret, for he was truly devoted and attached to t& et ■ff cB- -a c >& 20 ) roy, Major-General Hood, Dr. Jenncr, General Grey, and the ladies and gentlemen of the suite, passed from their carriages into the lobby, and thence into the billiu 1 room— a handsome lofty room, which forms a half o\. , at the end towards Union Terrace. The Lord Provost then presented the following address to Her Majesty : — To THE Queen's Most Excellent Majesty. The humble Address of Her Majesty's loyal and dutiful sub- jects, the contributors to the erection in Aberdeen of a Memorial Statue of His Royal Hii^hness the Prince- Consort. May it please your Majesty, We, your Majesty's most loyal and dutiful subjects, the contributors to the erection in Aberdeen of a ^Tenloria! Statue of His Royal Higliness the Prince-Consort, humbly beg leave to approach your Majesty with the expression of our devoted attachment to your Majesty's person and government. We are enal)led this day to bring to completion the work which we undertook in sorrowing and grateful remembrance of that illustrious Prince, whose removal by the insi lable will of Providence we, in common with all your Majesty's subjects, can never cease to deplore. No memorial is ncessary to preserve the name of one who adorned the highest station of the land by the brightest di^^play of intellectual and moral greatness, as well as the purest and most enlightened zeal for the public good : whose memory is revered throughout the world, as uiat of few Princes has ever been ; and whose example will ever be cherished as a most precious inheritance by this great nation. Yet, in this part of the dear Prince and me, with whom he had been for twenty years. -^ ' M I -I -.J t J' iB- -a 'B- ( 21 t!ie United Kingrlom, wliidi wns lionouvcd Ijy tlic annual pre sc ICC of the illustrious Prince, and in this city, wiiich a few yjars a;^'o was signally favoured by the exertion of his great taents as rresideiit of tl.e British Association for the Advance ment of Science, an eanest desire i)er\aded all ranks to give pjrmanent expression to the ])rofound reverence and affection he had ins])ired. How ir.adc(|uate for such a purpose the memorial we have erected must be, we ourselves most deeply feel. But that your Majesty should have on this occasion graciously come fortii a^jain to receive the [luMic homa;.;e of your loyal and devoted people, we regard as a ground of heartfelt thankfulness ; and viewing it as a proof that your Mnjesty approves the luimblc hut i-incere tribute of jur sorrow, we shall ever be grateful for flic i^veition which your Majesty has made to afford us this proof. 1 .,.it Ahnighty (lod, the source of all strength, may comfort your Majesty's heait, iirospering all your Majesty's designs and efforts for your people's good ; that He may bestow His choicest favours on jour royal offspring, and continue to your devoted subjects for u.any years the blessings of your Majesty's reign, is our earnest and constant prayer. In name of the Contributors, Ai.i'.x. Andicrson, 1 onl Provost of Aherdcen, Cli;iirii'.an of llic CummiUco of Coiurihiitors. All! rdccn, Ortolicr IJ, iTfiJ. On receiving the address, Ilcr Majesty handed the following' reply to the Loril Provost: — ^'our l(jyal and affectionate address has deep.ly touched me and I thank you for it from my heart. -ff r& -a { ) ' was with feelings which I fail in seeking words to cxjiic^s I determined to attend here to-day to witness the inaugurat- ing of the statue which will record to future times the love and resjiect of the I'eopie of this county and city for my great and beloved husband. But I could not reconcile it to myself to remain at I'.almoral while such a tribute was being paid to his memory without making an exertion to assure you personally of the dec[) and heartfelt sense I entertain of your kindness and affection ; and at the same time proclaim in public tlie un- bounded reverence a;id admiration and the devoted love th.it fill my heart for him whose loss must throw a la. ling gloom over all my future life. Never can 1 forget the circumstances to which you so feel- ingly alluded that it was in this ci'y he delivered his remark- able aildress to the Bi itisli Association a very few years ago ; and that in this county we had for so many )ears been in the haL!t of speiuling some of the happiest days of our li\es. After the Queen's reply had been handed to the Lord rio\ost, Sir Gcorije (ji'cy commanded liis Lord.^liip to kiicci, wl c 1 Ilcr Majesty, taking a sword from Sir Gcorjrc, touched the Provost on each shoulder and said — "Rise, Sir Alexander Anderson." Tliis ceremony concluded, the Ouccn and the wh.olc of the royal [jarly then proceeded to tlic platform, Iler Majesty's appearance on which was the signal for the multitude gathered out- side to uncover tlicir heads. Her Majesty, who appeared to be deeply melanclioly and much depressed, thou;;h calm and collected, advanced to the front of the platform, while the Princes, who were all dressed in Royal Stewart tartan, aiul the Princesses, who wore l)liie silk dresses, white bonnets, and dark givy cloaks, look u[) a position T!^- -ff £f ''& ( 23 ) immediately behind her. The proceedings were opened with a prayer by Principal Campbell, who spoke for about ten minutes, the assemblage standing uncovered in the rain, which was falling heavily at the time. During the time the learned Principal was engaged in prayer. Her Majesty more than once betrayed manifest and well- justified signs of impatience at the length of the oration. At the conclusion of the prayer, a signal was given, the bunting which had concealed the statue was hoisted to the top of a flagstaff, and the ceremony WdS complete. Her Majesty, having scanned the statue narrowly, bowed to the assemblage and retired from the platform, followed by the royal party. After the illustrious com- pany had lunched in the club, the procession was re- formed and proceeded the same way as it came to the Scottish North-Eastern Station in Guild Street. Her Majesty left Aberdeen about three o'clock.] m- --ff a- -th ( 24 ) f Expedition to Invermark. T^icsday, Scpiciiibcr ig, i86j. On waking I felt very low and nervous at the thought of the expedition. All so sadly changed. Started at eleven o'clock with Lenchen and Jane Churchill, Grant and Brown on the box — like in former happy times. General Grey had preceded us, and we found him at the Bridge of jlluick, where our ponies were waiting. We had four gillies, three of whom were with us in 1S61 (Smith, Morgan, and Kennedy). The heat was intense going up the Polach. I got well enough through the bog, but Jane Churchill's pony (loundered considerably. We lunched when we had crossed the Tanar and gone a little way up Aloinit Keen, and General Grey then went on to meet Lord Dalhousie. Two of his foresters had come to show us tlie v>'ay. We remounted ahcr Ct)-.- -ff ^' ■w f ( ) siuinc^ and rcstin^^ a little while, and ascended the .shouldt:r of Mininl Keen, and then rode on. The distance was very hazy. We got off and walked, after which I rode down that fine wild pass called the Ladder Bwii ; but it seemed to strike me much less than when I first saw it, as all is flat now. At th.e foot of the pass Lord Dalhousie met us with General Grey, and welcomed iis kindly; and at the Shiel, a little further on, where we had lunched in iok us eft it, we stopped some delay we ard/e, and then, vn to the farm Of to which Mr. nd rode before General Grey r Duchess of IS, and we got he farmhouse, lit. Then we yvie, Lenchen irse across the 5 obscured all ive been very oad, but soon k, and hardly a pretty steep with the im- hich distanced hind, and his ; by this time list. About a the " March," . kcld in 1842. t- ^ / /. /^- cfl- ft ( 3' ) quarter of nn hour after we had left it, we stopped to lunch in the carriage. After some delay we went on and turned into Strathardle, and then, leaving the Blairgoivrie road, down to the farm o{ Pilcannick, shortly before coming to which Mr. Small Keir * of Kindruonn met us and rode before us to this farm. Here we found General Grey and our ponies, and here the dear Duchess of Athole and Miss MacGregor met us, and we got out and went for a short while into the farmhou'^^f, where we took some wine ar ' 'nscuit. Then we mounted our ponies (I on dc.= iwie, Lenchen on Brechin), and started on our course a ross the hill. There was much mist. This obscured all the view, which otherwise would have been very fuic. At first there was a rough road, but soon there was nothing but a sheep-track, and hardly that, through heather and stones up a pretty steep hill. Mr. Keir could not keep up with the im- mense pace of Brown and Fyvie, which distanced every one ; so he had to drop behind, and his keeper acted as guide. There was by this time lu;avy driving rain, with a thick mist. About a little more than an hour took us to the " March," • His f-ulicr was presciucil to nic at Dunkcld in 1842. t& 4 f -F>i ( ) where two of the DiiuL-dd men net us, joliii McGregor, the Duke's head wood-forester, and Gregor McGregor, the Duchess's gamekeeper ; and the former acted as a guide. The Duchess and Miss MacGrcgor were riding with us. We went from here through larch woods, tlie rain pouring at times violently. We passed (after crossing the DunkcJd Marcli) Little Loch Oishitc, and I^och Ois/ine, before coming to Loch Ordic. Here dripping wet we arrived at about a quarter- past si.x, having left Pitcannich at twenty minutes to four. It was dark already from the very bad weather. We went into a lodL^e here, and had tea and whisky, and Lcnchcn had to get liersclf dried, as she was so wet. About seven we drove off from Loch Ordie. There was no outrider, so we sent on tirst the other carriage with Lcnchen, Lady Ely, and Miss MacGrcgor, and General Grey on the bo.x, and I went with the Duchess in a phaeton which had a liood — Brown and Grant going behipc'. It was pitch-dark, and we had to go through a wood, and I must own I was some- what nervous. We had not gone very far when we perceived that wc were on a very rough road, and I became ^ '-&' -a '^■ ^ ) much alarmed, though I would say nothing. A branch took off Grant's cap, and we had to stop for Brown to go back and look for it wit'i one of tlie carriage-lamps. This stoppage was most for- tunate, for he then discovered we were on a com- pletely wrong road. Grant and Brown had both been saying. " Tiiis is no carriage-road ; it is full of holes and stones." Miss MacGregor came to us in great distress, saying she did not know what to do, for that the coachman, blinded by the driving rain, had mistaken the road, and that we were in a track for carting wood. What was to be done, no one at this moment seemed to know — whether to try and turn the carriage (which proved impos- sible) or to take a horse out and send the pos ilion back to Loc/i Ordie to get assistance. At length we heard from General Grey that we could go on, though where we should get out, no one could e.xactly tell. Grant took a lamp out of the carriage and walked before the horses, while Brown led them ; and this reassured me. But the road was very rough, and we had to go through some deep holes full of water. At length, in about twenty minutes, we saw a light and passed a lodge, where we stopped and inquired where we were, for we •ff fQ- -ff a- ■a ( 34 ) had already come upon a good road. Our relief was great when we were told we were all right. Grant and Brown got up behind, and we trotted along the high road fast enough. Just before we came to the lodge, General Grey called out to ask which way the Duchess thought we should go, and Brown answered in her name, " The Duchess don't know at all where we arc," as it was so dark she could not recognise familiar places. At length at a quarter to nine we arrived quite safely at Dunkcld, at tlie Duchess's nice, snug little cottage, which is just outside the town, surrounded by fine large grounds. Two servants in kilts, and the steward, received us at the door. You come at once on the middle landing of the staircase, the cottage being built on sloping ground. The Duchess took me to my room, a nice little room, next to which was one for my wardrobe maid, Mary Andrews.* Lenchcn was upstairs near Miss MacGrcgor on one side of the drawing-room, which was given up to me as my sitting-room, and the Duchess's room on the other. Brown, the only other servant in the house, below, Grant in the adjoining buildings * She Iffl my service \n iS66. tg- — []) % i I ■a [fi- I ffl- -a [& -a^ ( oo ) to the house. The General and Lady Ely were at the hotel. We dhicil at lialf-past nine in a small dining-room below, only Lenchen, the Duchess, Miss MacGregor, and I. Everything so nice and quiet. The Duchess and M'ss MacGregor carvmg, her three servants waiting. They were so kind, and we talked over the day's adventures. Lenchen and every one, except the Duchess and myself, had been drenched. The Duchess and her cousin stayed a short while, and then left us, and 1 wrote a little. Strange to say, it was four years to-day that we paid our visit to Bliur and rode up G/cu Tilt. How different! Tuesday, October lo. A hopelessly wet morning. I had slept well, but felt sad on awaking. Breakfasted alone with Lenchen downstairs, each day waited on by Brown. A dreadful morning, pouring rain. Sat upstairs in the drawing-room, and wrote a good deal, being perfectly quiet and undisturbed. Lenchen and I lunched with the Duchess and Miss MacGregor, and at four we drove up to the Duchess's very fine model farm of St. Coiines, t -ff e -Pi ( 36 ) about four miles from DunkcUl; the Duchess and I in the phaeton, Lenchen, Janie Ely, and Miss MacGreyor g'oiii,^ in the other carriaj^e. We went all over the farni in detail, which is very like ours at Osborne ■A\\<^ IViitdsor, mifch having been adopted from our farms there ; and my dearest Husband had g^iven the Duchess so much advice about it, that v/c both felt so sad /:e shculd not see it. We took tea in the farmhouse, where the Duchess has kept one side quite for herself, and where sh Intends to live sometimes with Miss MacGregor, and almost by themselves. From here we drove back and stopped at the " Byres" close by the stables, which were lit up with gas, and where we saw all the cov/s being milked. Very fine Ayrshire cows, and nice dairjmaids. it is all kept up just as the late Duke wished it. We came home at past seven. It never ceased raining. The Cathedral bell began quite unexpectedly to ring, or almost toll, at eight o'clock, which the Duchess told lis was a very old custom — in fact, the curfew-bell. It sounds very melancholy. Dinner just as yesterday. $ '1 ta- ■ff ^ —Pi s-^ ( 37 ) -Qi H'cdncydiy, Ocfobcr it. Another wrctclicdly wet morning'. Was much distressed at breakfast to find that poor Brown's legs had been dreadfully cut by the iii\^c of liis wet kilt on Monday, just at the back of the knee, and he said nothing about it ; but to-day one bec.ime so inflamed, and swelled so much, that he could hardly move. The doctor said he must keep it up as much as possible, and walk very little, but did not forbid his going out with tb.e carriage, which he wished to do. I did not go out in the morning, and decided to remain ti!l Friday, to give the weather a chance. It cK ared just before luncl'eon, and we agreed to take a drive, which we were able to do almost without any rain. At half-past three we dro\c out just as yesterday. There was no niist, so that, though there was no sunshine, we could see and admire the country, the scenery of which is beautiful. We drove a mile along the BLnr Road to Polncy Loch, where we entered the woods, and, skirting the loch, drove at the foot of Craig y Barns on grass drives — which were very deep and rough, -^ ^ -_. u:, E^ a- -^ ( 3S ) ownnrr to the vv( t wcailicr, but extremely pretty — on to the Lo.A Ordie road. After ascending this for a little way we left it, driving all round Cally Lock (there are innumerable lochs) through Cally Gardens along another fine but equally rough wood drive, which comes out on the JUairgoxurie high road. After this we drove round the three Lochs of the Lowes — viz. Craig Lush, Ihdlcrstonc, and the Loch of I he Lowes itself (which is the largest). They are surrounded by trees and woods, of which there is no end, and are very pretty. W'e came back by tiie Blairgou'vie road and drove through Dniikeld (the people had been so discreet and quiet, 1 said 1 would do this), crossing over tl.c bridge (where twenty- two years ago we were met by twenty of Mie A thole Highlanders, wlio conducted us to the entrance of the grounds), and proceeded by the upper road to the Rumb.'ir.g Bridge, which is Sir William Stewart of Grand- tullys propcrt}-. W'e got out here and walked to the brid'^e, under which the Braan fiov.'cd over tlie rocks most splendidly ; and, sw'ollen by the rain, it came down in an immense volume of water with a dcafeniu'" noise. Returning thence we drove through the villaire of Invcr to the Ilermitas^e q]- -^ ■^ 1 c 0- nil ( 39 ) on thc! banks of the Braan, which is Dnnkeld [)ropcrty. This is a Httle house full of lookinj^- glasses, with painted walls, looking; on another fail of the Braan, where we took tea almost in the dark. It was built by James, the second Duke of Athole, in the la:;t century. We drove back through Dunkcld ng'ain, the people cheer- ing. Quite fair. We came home at half-past six o'clock. Lady IHy and General Grey dined wiUi us. After dinner only the Duchess came to the drawing-room, and read to us again. Then I wrote, and Grant wailed instead of Brown, wlio was to keep quiet on account of his leg. Thursday, October 12. A fair day, with no rain, but, alas ! no sunshine. Brown's leg was much belter, and the doctor thought he could walk over the hill to-morrow. Excellent breakfasts, such splendid cream and butte • ! The Duchess has a verv good cook, a Scotchwoman, and I thought how dear Albert would l.ave liked it all. He always said things tasted better in smaller houses. There were seve- ral Scotch dishes, two soups, and the celebrated tg- ■ff -Wf a- -a ( 40 ) *" haggis," which I tried last night, and really liked very nuich. The Duchess was delighted at my taking it. At a quarter past twelve Lenchen and I walked with the Duchess in the grounds and saw the Cathedral, part of which is converted into a parish church, and the other part is a most picturesque ruin. We saw the tomb of the Wolf of Badenoch, son of King Robert the Second. There are also other monuments, but in a very dilapidated state. The burying-ground is inside and south of the Cathedral. We walked along the sitle of the river 7^ay, into which the river Braan flows, under very fine trees, as far as the American garden, and then round by the terrace overlooking th.e p:irk, on which the tents were ])itchetl at the time of the great dejeuner tliat the Duke, then Lord Glenlyon, gave us in 1842, which was our first ac(iuaintance with the Highlands and J highland customs ; and it was such a fine sight ! Oh ! and here we were together — both widows ! We came back through the kitchen-garden by half past one o'clock. After the usual luncheon, drove with Lenchen, the Duchess, and Miss MacGregor, at twenty minutes to four, in her i ! J I ^ -~xa -ft ( 41 ) social)l(; to Loch Ordit\ by the lal<(;s of Rohnell ancl Doii'ally ilir(iu;h the wood, being the roatl by which \vc ouLjlit to have come the first night when wc lost our way. It was cold, but the sky was quite bright, and it was a fine evening; and the lake, wooded to the water's edge and skirted by distant hills, lool;ed extremely pretty. Wc took a short row on it in a " coble " rowed by the head keeper, Gregor M'Grcgor. We took tea under the trees. The evening was very cold, and it was getting rapidly dark. We came back safely 1 y the road the lAichess had wishc'd to come the other night, but which her coachman did not think safe on account of the precipices ! We got home at nine. Only the Duchess and Miss Mac Cjregor dined with us. The Duke's former excel- lent valet, Christie (a Mighlander, and now the Duchess's house-steward), and George McPherson, piper, and Charles McLaren, foolmyn, two nice, good-looking Highlanders in the Athole tartan, Viaited on us. The Duchess read again a little to us after dir.ncr. fr-- # [._i- -a ( 42 ) Friday, Ociohcr 13. Quite a fine mornlngf, with bright gleams of sunshine hghtiiig up everything. The piper played each morning in the garden during break- fast. Just before we left at ten, I planted a tree, and spoke to an old acquaintance, Willie Duff, the Duchess's ll-herman, who had formerly a very long black beard and hair, which are now quite grey. Mr. Carrington, who has been Secretary in the A thole family for four generations, was presented. General Grr^y, Lady Ely, and Miss MacGregor had gone on a little while before us. Lenchca and I, with the Duchess, went in the sociable with four horses (Brown and Grant on the bo.\). The wea'her was splendid, and the view, as we drove alonof the Inverness Road — which is the road to Blair — with all the mountains risinL"" in the distance, was beautiful. We passed through the village of BaUinluig, where there is a railway station, and a quarter of a mile below which the Tay and the Tnnniicl unite, at a place called Logierait. All these names were familiar to me from our stay in 1S44. fa-- -ff -Cb ,& -a n- ( 43 ) We saw the place where the monument to the Duke is to be raised, on an eminence above Logierait. About eleven miles from Dnnkcld, just below Croflinloan (Captain Jack Murray's), we took post-iiorses. You could see PiLoihry in the distance to tlie left. We then left ti'.e Inver- ness Road, and turned to the right, up a very steep hill past iJiiiia mrd (Mr. Napier's, son of the historian), past Edradour (the Duke's pro- perty), over a wild moor, reminding one very much of Aberardci' (near Bcilni>ral), whence, looking back, you have a beautiful view of tlie hills Si./iic/ial/ioii, lieu Lomond, and Ben Lazcers. This glen is called G/en Brcarichan, the little river of that name uniting with the Female, and receiving afterwards the name of the Ardlc. On the left hand a shoulder of Ben y-Gloe is seen. We 'unched in the carriage at ten minutes past twelve, only a quarter of a mile from the West Lodge of Kinarogan (Mr. Keir's) Here were our ponies, and General Grey, Lady Ely, and Miss MacGregor. We halted a short while to let General Grey get rJ^ead, and then started on our ponies, Mr. Keir walking with us. We passed Mr. Keir's house of Kindrogan, out at . ri ^1^ -ff r\ ^ "-Q] ( 44 ) the East Lodge, by the little villag;e of Enoch Dim, up the rather steep ascent and approach of Dirnauean, Mr. Small's place ; passing his house as we went. Mr. Small was absent, but two of his people, fine, tall-looking men, led the way ; two of Mr. Keir's were also with us. W^e turned over the hui from here, through a wild, heathery glen, and then up a grassy hill called tlie Larir/i, just above the Spi/af. Looking back the view was splendid, one range of hills behind the other, of different shades of blue. After we had passe 1 the summit, we sto[)ped for our tea, about twenty minutes to four, and seated ourselves on the grass, b\it hat! to wait for some time till a kettle arrived which had been forgotten, and had to be sent for from the Spilal. This caused some delay. At length, when tea was over, we walked down a little way, and then rode. It was really most distressing to me to see what pain poor Brown suffered, especial! j' in going up and down the hill. He could not go fast, and walked lame, but would not give in. His endurance on this occasion showed a brave heart indeed, for he re sisted all attc^nipts at being relieved, and would not relinquish his charge. t& -I? ^ -a { 45 ) We took leave of the dear kind Duchess and Miss MacGregor, who were going back to Kin- drogan, and got into the carriage. We were able to ascend the Devil's Elbow before it was really dark, and got to Castleton at half-past seven, where we found our own horses, and reached Balmoral at half-past eight. ^^- XD a- -Ei ( 'fi ) Skconu Visit to Dunkeld, Monday, Ociohci' i, iS66. A very fine morning. Got up earlier, and breakfasted earlier, and left at a quarter to ten with Louise and Janie Ely (attended by Brown and Grant as formerly) ; Arthur having gone on with General Grey. We met many droves of cattle on the road, as it was the day for the tr\st at Castleloii. It was very hot, the sun very bright, and the Cairn Wall looked wild and grand. But as we went on the sky became dull and over- cast, and we almost feared there migiit be rain. We walked down the Devil's Eiboiv, and when within a mile and a half of the Spital we stopped and lunched in the carriage, and even sketched a liiile. A little way on the north side of tl;c Spital were the ponies, Gordon for me, Br. chin for Louise, and Cromar for Janie Ely. There was tfl — — -EP -ii 1 -^ ( 47 ) a pony for Arthur, which lie did not ride, and for Grant or any one who was tired. The dear Duchess of A thole and Miss MacGre_c;or came to meet us here, and when we had reached the spot where the road turns up the hill, we found Mr. Keir and his son, and Mr. Small of Dirnanean — a strong", good-looking, and pleasing person about thirty-two — and his men, the same two fine tall men, preceding us as last year. It was a steep climb up the hill which we had then come down, and e.xcessivcly hot. The views both ways beauti- ful, though not clear. The air was very heavy and oppressive. We went the same way as before, but the ground was very wet from the great amount of rain. We stopped a moment in passing, at Dirnanean, to speak to Miss Small, Mr. Small's sister, a tall, stout young lady,* and then went on to Kindrogan, Mr. Keir's. All about here the people speak Gaelic, and there are a few who do not speak a word of English. Soon after entering Mr. Keir's grounds we got off our ponies, and went along a few yards by the side of the river Ardle to where Mr. Keir had got a fire kind'ed and • I'lieir father, a nan of immense s;i;e, v.as presented to mc at DunkeM in 1S42. ^tJ-« -ff a- -a ( 4S ) a kettle boiling, plaids spread and tea prepared. Mrs. Keir and her two daughters were there. She is a nice quiet pcrion, and was a Miss Menzies, daughter of Sir Niel Menzies, whom I saw at Tii}vioiitk in 1842. Only we ladies remained. The tea over, we walked up to the house, which is a nice comfortable one. We waited here a Kttle while, and I saw at the door Major Balfour of Fcrnie, the intended bridegroom of Mr. Keir's youngest daughter. At a little over a quarlcr- l)ast five started in my sociable, with Louise and the Duchess. We came very fast and well with the Duchess's horses by exactly the same road \\t drove from Dtuikeld last year. The liorses were watered at the small halfway house of nallinliiig, and we reached Duii/c'.ld in perfect safety at ten minutes past seven. I am where 1 was before, Louise in Lcnchen's room, and Arthur in a room next to where Brown was be- fore, and is now. All the rest the same, and snug, peaceful, and comfortable. fr- -ff "fb tfl- — a ( 49 ) Dntikeld, Titesrfay, October 2. -EP ^ on the Mild and muggy, the mist hanging hills. Breakfasted with the children. Andrew Thomson attends to Arthur. Emilie * and Annie Macdonald f are with me here ; they help Louise, who, however, is very handy and can do almost everything for herself. At half-past eleven I drove out alone with the Duchess through the woods to Polncy, and then along the road, and turned in at Willie Duff's Lodge, and down the whole way along the river under splendid trees which remind me of Windsor Park. How dearest Albert would have admired tliem ! We ended by a little walk, and looked into the old ruin. At twenty minutes to four we drove, the Duchess, Louise, and I — Janie Ely and Miss MacGregor following — to Crieff-g-aic on the road * Emilie Diltweiler, my first dresser, a native of Carlbruhe, in tlie Grand Ducliy of I'aden, who has been twenty-four years in my service. t My first wardrobe woman, who has been twenty seven years in my service, daughter of Mitchel, tlie late blacksmith at Clachanturn, near Abcri^cldie, and widow of my footman, John Macdonald, who died in 1865 {ride '' Om Life in tlie High- lands"). -4 fl- Eb ( ) of tlie Loch of the Lo7vcs, wliere we c^ot on ponies and rode for about an hour and a half through beautiful woods (saw a capercailzie, of which there are many here), but in a very thick mist (with very fine rain) which entirely destroyed all idea of view and prevented one's seeing anything but what was near. We came down to Si. Co/nic's, where we got off, but where again, like last year, we saw nothinsf of the beautiful view. Here we took tea out of the tea-set I had given the Duchess. She has furnished all her rooms here so prettily. How Albert would have liked all this! Dinner as yesterday. Brown waited at dinner. Wcr/iiesdny, 0( toiler 3. Just returned from a beautiful and successful journey of seventy miles (in ten hours and a half). I will try and begin an account of it. At nine the Duchess sent up to say she thought the mist would clear off (it was much the same as yesterday), and to suggest whether we had not better try and go as far as her horses would take us, and return if it was bad. I agreed readily to this. Arthur left before our breakfast to go to the Pass of tQ- # m II- -Eh CT" _^_^ -^ 51 KilliccranJac wiih Lady Kly niiJ Ccner.il Grey. At a quarter past ten, well provided, we starletl, Louise, the Duchess, Miss MacGregor, and I (in our riding habits, as they take less rooni). 'llu: mist was very thick at first, and even accompanied by a little drizzling' rain, so that we could see none of the distant hills and scenery. We crossed the Tay Bridge, drove through Little Duukcld ami along the Brain through ///wr (where Niel Gow, the fiddler, lived), afterwards along the '1 oy oppo- site to St. Colmes. Four miles from Ihuihcld, at Iiichinagranachaii Farm, the Highlands are suj)- posed to begin, and this is one of the boundaries ol A thole. We drove through some beautiful woods ■ — oak and beech with brushwood, reminding one of IVtndsor Park — overtopped by rocks. A mile further Dalguise begins (the property of Mr. Stewart, now at the Cape of Good Ilopi), which is remarkable for two large orchards at either end. the trees laden with fruit in a way that reminded me of Germany. Kinnaird is next, the jointure house of the late Lady Glcnlyon (mother to the late Duke). Just beyond this the Tummel and the Tay ]o\\\ at the point of Logicrait. We now entered Stratk Tay, still the Duke of 'h- ■ t -ff VICTORIA, B. C. ^ ^■ ) ■ij: A thole's property, on the side along which we drove. Ihe '/\ij is a fine lari:je river ; there are many small proi "pties cm the opposite side in the woods. 'Ihe iu..t was now less thick and there was no rain, so that all the near country could be well seen. Post-horses from I'isher of Orsi/iions brother, the innkeeper at Dnukcld, were waiting for us at SkilUiUi, a little beyond Balnagnard (where we changed horses in 1S4.', and this was the very same road we took then). Now an un- sightly and noisy railroad runs along this beautiful glen, from DunkcUi as far as Abcrfcldy. W^c passed, close to the road, Graudlully Castle, be- longing to Sir William Stewart, and rented by the Maharajah Duleep Singh. It is a curious old castle, much in the style of Abergcldie, with an avenue of trees leading up to it. At Abcrfeldy, a pretty village opposite to Castle Alenzics, one or two people seemed to know us. We now came in among fine high-wooded hills, and here it was much clearer. We were in the Breadalbane ^^xo'^^x\.y TiViA approaching Taynionth. We passed, to the left, Bolfrax, where Lord Oreadalbane's factor still lives, and to the right the principal lodge of Taymoitth, which I so well ^ -ff Li_U. 4]i "ff a- fr ( ) fcmcnibcr goin;j^ In by ; but as we couIJ not Invt; driven through the grounds wiiliout asking [)cr- niission and becoming known, which for various reasons we ch I not wish, we decided on not attempting it, and contented ourselves witli getting out at a gat", close to a sm;dl fort, into which we were admitted by a woman from th( 'gardener's house, close to which we stopped, and who had no idea w!io we were. * We got out and looked down from this hoight upon the house below, the mist hax'inc^ cleared away sufficiently to show us everything ; and here unknown, cpiitc in private, I gazed, not without deep inward emotion, on tlie scene of our reception, twenty-four years ago, by dear Lord Breadalbane in a princely st)le, not to be equalled for grandeur and poetic effect ! Albert and I were only twenty-three, young and happy. How many are gone who were with us then I I was very thankful to have seen it again. It seemed unaltered.* Everything was (lrip[)ing from the mist. Tayiiiouth is twent)-two miles from Dunk: Id. We got into the carriage again ; the Duchess • The p.nssage hetwrcn the asterisks was ijuo'.cd in a note in "Our Life in tlie Highlands," i>n;je 22. -P. -# rO"* ft ( 54 ) this time sitting near to me to prevent our appear- ance creating suspicion as to my being there. We th'ove on a short way through splencHd woods with httle waterfalls, and then turned into the Httle village of Kciiiuore, where a tryst was being held, through the midst of which we had to drive ; but the [)eop]e only recognised the Ducht'ss. There was music going on, things being sold at I)ooths, and on the small sloping green near the church cattle and ponies were collected — a most picturesque seen". Iinmctliatcl)' after this we came upon the bridge, and /.nc/i 'Jay. with its wooded banks, clear and )ct misi)-, burst into view. This again reniiuded mv. of »lie past — of the row up the loch, which is sixteen miles long, in I1S42, in several boats, with jjlbi-ochs placing, au'.l the boatmen sin<>ins:'' wild Claelic son''s. The McDou^^all steeretl us then, and showed us the real Brooch of Lome taken frcm Robert Hruce. 'I"o the right we could see the grountls and fine park, looking rather like an English one. We stopped at Afnrrays Lodge, but, instead of chang- ing horses here, drove five miles up the luch, which was quite clear, and the stillness so great that the rellection on t!;e la;:e's bci.om was as fi ^b- - -ff ^- [fl- ■fl] ( 55 ) Strong as though it were a real landscape. Merc we stopped, and _c;ot out and sat down on the shore of the loch, which is covered with fine quartz, of which we picked up some ; took :)ur luncheon about half-past one, and then sketclicd. By this time the mist had given way to the sun, and the lake, with its richly wooded banks and changing foliage, looked beautiful. At half-past two we re-entered our carriage, the horses having been changed, and drove back up a steep hill, crossing the river Lyon and going into Glcnlyou, a beautiful wild glen with higii green hills and rocks and trees, which I remember quite well driving through in iS^2 — \\\v.\\ also on a misty da)' : the mist hung over, and even in some i)laces below the tops of the hills. \Vc ])asscd several small places — Glcnlyon /louse, the property of F. G. Campbell of Troup. To the left also Fortingal village — Sir Robert iMenzies' — and a new ])lace called 7/7/ ;.'^?e'tv/ House. Small, picturesque, and ver}- f.iir cottages were dotted al)()ut, and there were others in small clusters ; beautiful sjxamores and other trees were to be seen near the riverside. We then passed the village of Coshieville, and turned by the hill-road — t& -ff a- — & ( 5^^ ) up a very stcci) liiU wilh a burn (lowini^ at ihe bottom, much wooded, rcmindiivj^ me of M'/ii- roy's Ihtni — passed the ruins of the old castle of the Stewarts of Garth, and then ciunc on a dreary \ ild moor — passing below Schichallion, one of the high hills— and at the summit of the road came to a small loch, called Ccannairdichc. Soon after this we turned down the hill again into \\oods, and came to J iimnicl Bridge, where we changed horses. Here were a few, but very few people, who I think, from what Brown and Grant — who, as usual, were in attendance — said, recrgnised us, but behaved extremely well, and did not come riear. This was at twenty minutes to four. We then turned as it were home- wards, but had to make a good long circuit, and drove along the side of Lech Tuiimicl, high above the loch, through birch wood, which grows along the hills much the same as about Birk- Iiall. It is only three miles long. Mere it was again very clear and bright. At the end of the loch, on a highish point called after me " The Queens Vieiv" — though I had not been there in 1844 — wc got out and took tea. Hut this was a long and unsuccessful business ; the fire would d" tg- r"! T d>- -a ( 5; ) not Ijurn, and the kettle would not boil. At length Brown ran off to a cottage and returned after some htile wliile witli a can full of hot water, but it Wi'.s no longer boiling when it arrived, and tlie tea was not good. Then all had to be packed, ^nd ii; made us ver)' late. It was fast growing dark. We passed Alleiue, Sir Robert Cohjuhoun's place, almo.it immediately after this, and then, at about half-past siv, changed liorses at the jh-idQc of Garry, near, or rather in the midst of, the Pais of KilliccrarJdc; but from the lateness of the hour and the dullness of the evening — for it was raining — we could see hnniiy anything. We went through Pit/ochry, where we were recognised. ')ut got quite quietly through, ami reached Ballniluig, where the Duchess's horses were put on, at a little before half-past seven. Here the lamps were lit, and the good people had put two lighted candles in each window ! They offered to bring "Athole brose," which we, ho\ve\'er, declined. The people pressed round the carriage, and one man brought out a bull's-eye lantern which he turned upon me. But Brown, who kept quite close, put himself *}-- -tf a- -Eh cB ( ss ) between me and the glare. We ought to have been home in less than an hour from this time, but we liad diveis impediments — twice the plaid fell out and hatl to be picked up ; and then llie lamp wlucli I had given to the Duchess, ]ik'> the one our outrider carries, was lir, and tlie coachman who rode outiider, and who was not accustomed to u: e it, did not hold it riglitly, so that it went out twice, and had lo be rt, Ht eacli time. So we only got home at a quarter to nine, and dined at twenty minutes past nine. But it was a very interesting day. We must have gone seventy four miles. 'J /nil sdiiy, Oiiobci- 4. Again heavy mist on t!ie hills — most provoking — but without rain. 'Jlie Duchess came to as'c if I liad any objection to the servants and gillies having a dance for two hours in the evening, to which I said, certainly not, and that I would go to it mysc^lf. At a quarter to twelve 1 rode in the grounds with the Duchess, going round Jiishop's Hill and up to the King's Scaly a good height, among the most splendid trees — beeches, oaks, Scotch firs, spruce — really (piitj like ]Vii:d- i:X -B -ft [S- A ( 59 ) sor, and reminding nic of ihose fine trees at the BclviJcrc, and a good deal of Reinhardtsbrunn (in the forest of TInti ingict^]. But tliough less heavy than che two preceding mornings and quite drv it was too hazy to see any distant hills, and Craig y Barns, that splendid rocky, richly wooded hili overtopping the whole, only jjccped through the mist occasionally. I'^'om the Kiiii^'s Seal we came down by the fort and upon the old " Oiier Ilourd Kcinich'' where we saw Mrs. Fisher, tb.e mother of Agnes Brierly, who was formerly schoolmistress to the Lochiiagar girls' school near Balmoral. We came in at a little after one, ex- pecting it would clear and become much finer, instead of which it got darker and thicker. At twenty minutes to lour drove with the Ducheh's, Miss I\lacGregor and Janie Ely follow- ing, to Loch Clunic by the Loch of I he Lou.\e back a 4 4 a- R] c: ( 60 ) towards Diinkc/dhy the. Citpar Aih^iis Rondy it was quite like a thick Windsor foc^, but perfectly ih'y. We stopped to take tea at Ntwty.e, a farm of tlie Duchess, about two miles from Diinkcld, where she has a small room, and which supplies turnips, etc., for the fine dairy cows. We got home by five minutes lO seven. We passed through the town, where the people appeared at their doors cheering, and the children made a great noise. Dinner as before. At half-past ten we went down (through the lower passages) to the servants' hall, in which the little dance took place. All the Duchess's servants, the wives of the men-servant.i, the keepers, the wood-forester (J. M'Gregor, who has an extensive charge over all the woods on the Alliole property), the gar- dener, and some five cr six others who belong to my guard (eight people, belonging to the Duchess or to the town, who take their turn of watchii.g two by two at night), besides all our servants, werr there ; only Grant and two of the gillies did \ appear, which vexed us ; but the gillies had not any proper shoes, they said, and therefore did not come. Janie lily came ; also Mr. Keir, and both were very active ; General Grey only looked in for fth- 4 il: ^' r- ( 6t ) a moment, as he was suffering severely from cold. The fiddlers plaj'ed in very good time, and the dancing was ver}- anmiated, and went on without ceasing. Louise and Arthur both danced a good deal. Nothing but reels were danced. Even the Duchess's old French maid, Clarice, danced! Slic no longer acts as the Duchess's maid, but siill lives near, in the adjacent so-called " brick bu'ldings." Friday, October 5. A brighter morning, though still hazy. The sun came out and the mist seemed dispersing. At twenty minutes to one started with the Duchess and Louise, the two ladies following, for Loch Ordie. Several limes during the drive the mist regained its mastery, but then again the sun struggled through, 'olue sky appeared, and the mist seemed to roll away and the hills and woods to break through. We drove by 0'rt/<,' Lnsh and Buttcrstoiic Lochs, and then turned by the Ricchip Burn — up a very steep hill, finely wooded, passing by Ricchip and Raeniore, two of the Duke of Athole's shooting lodges, both let. After the last the road opens upon a wild moor (or " muir ") for 4? tft ■ff a- -• -a ( <-^- ) a short while, hcfure (Mitcriiii;- the; plantat.if;ns ar.d woods of Lock Ordic. Mere, mite cU)se to tlie lodge, on the grass, we took luncheon. The Duchess had had a hot venison pie brought, which was very acce[)table. The sun had come out, and it was deliglufully warm, with a bhie sky and bright lights, and we sat sketching for some time. Tiic good people have made a cairn amongst the trees where we had tea last yc ar. At four we drove away, and went by the road which leads towards Tnllyiiict, and out of l!ic woods by Hardy s Lodge, near a bridge. We stopped at a very picturesque place, surrounded by woods and hills and litlle shiels, reminding me of the Laiic/ia Griind at Kcinhardlsbrunn. Opposite to this, on a place called Ruidh I\.cin- nic/i, or the " ferny shieling," a fire was kindled, and we took our tea. We then drove back by the upper St. Colincs L^oad, after which we drove through the town, up Ihidgc S/rcd, and to the Market Cross, where a fountain is being erected in memory of the Duke. We went to see the dairy, and then came home on foot at a quarter to seven. Rested on the sofa, as my head was bad ; it got better, how\ ver, after dinner. ^^b- 4 fi ( 63 ) ft Saturday, October 6. A beautiful, bright, clear morning, most pro- vokingly so. After breal -^ ■--ii D IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 4 // :/- A r>V< ,v <\ 6^ >> 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. MS80 (716) 872-4503 10 Ov a 97 ... ^7-,,^/'^ ^^ [B- Bj ( 67 'jUt.- . verv n<:rv'f»ii h U was flc flr-t ■vv tlarlii).^ M came I lie ivw • jrtty tu sec Uu- f' rwurk.s ;> itiatftd to ajii"> • T fUiilv. i -■ -ui which it i ' miles ab')V<- '\r 'h- 'M\d of the jii're the ccremc i!r is estimated to coiit*' lUr, It is j\ist two yt- mrf i)f the und- tl'.e >v took us to : place. I e the Lord I in 1863) ny answer, ot through 1 read any- aken from »ck, and it J up. isive scale, 6,000,000 from the Cairnton, The prin- mnel 760 the hill of very iiard :he I nv cr- ook, place. 5,000,000 and a half was cut, The cere- " an hour, ^- en a- --ftj ( 67 ) the next About twenty minutes' drive took us to Invercannie, where the ceremony took place. I got out and stood outside the tent while the Lord Provost (whom I knighted at Aberrieen in 1863) read the address. Then I had to read my answer, which made me very nervous ; but I got through it well, though it was the first time I had read any- thing since my darling Husband was taken from me. Then came the turning of the cock, ana it was very pretty to see the water rushing up. These waterworks are on a most extensive scale, and are estimated to convey to the city 6,000,000 gallons of water daily. The water is from the river Dee, from which it is diverted at Cairniou, about four miles above Banchory. The prin- cipal features of the works are a tunnel 760 yards in length, which is cut through the hill of Cairnton, composed of solid rock of a very hard nature. At the end of the tunnel is the Inver- cannie Reservoir, where the ceremony took place. This reservoir is estimated to contain 15,000,000 gallons of water. It is just two years and a half since the first turf of the undertaking v.as cut, and the cost of the works is 130.000/. The cere- mony was over in less than a quarter of an hour, 43- 4 [fl- fll ( 6S ) ■ and wc retun^cd as we came, stopping a moment at the door of Mr. Davidson's house, where his daughter presented me with a nosegay. The day was fine and mild. The people were v< i y kind, and cheered a good deal. We got back at twenty minutes past two. ^ ■ff a- -Qi { 69 ) Hai.i.owkf.n, OcrouKR 31, 1866-1867. While we were at Mrs. Grant's we saw the commencement of the keeping of Halloween. All the children came out with burning torches, shouting and jumping. The Protestants generally keep Halloween on the old day, November 12, and the Catholics on this day ; but hearing I had wished to see it two years ago, they all decided to keep it to-day. When we drove home we saw all tiie gillies coming along with burning torches, and torches and bonfires appeared also on the opposite side of the water. We went upstairs to look at it from the windows, from whence it had a very pretty effect. t& On the same day in the following year, viz., Thursday, October 31, 1867, we had an opportu- --.4 c& -a ( 70 ) nity of again scclni; ilic celebration of Ilallowrcn, and even of taking part in it. We had be(;n out driving, but we iuirried back to be in lime fv>r the celebration. Close to Donald Stewart's house we were met by two gillies bearing torches. Louise got out and took one, walking by the side of the carriage, and looking like one of the witches in " Macbeth," As we ap- proached Balmoral, the keepers and their wives and children, the gillies and other people met us, all with torches ; Brown also carrying one. We got out at the house, where Leopold joined us, and a torch was given to him. We walked round the whole house, preceded by Ross playing the pipes, going down the steps of the terrace. Louise and Leopold went first, then came Janie Ely and I, followed by every one carrying torches, which had a very pretty effect. After this a bonfire was made of all the torches, close to the house, and they danced reels whilst Ross played the pipes. 'S- # -a ifl- -fi ( ?■ ) Visit to Floors and tiir Scotch Border Country, August 20, 1867. # H t& Tuesday, Auo^tcsi 20, 1867. At ten o'clock I left IVindsor (those night departures are always sad) with Louise, Leopold, and Baby (Beatrice) ; Lenchen, Christian, and their little baby boy meeting us at the station. Jane Churchill, Harriet Phipps, the two gover- nesses, Sir Thomas Biddulph, Lord Charles Fitz- Roy, Colonel G. Gordon, Mr. Duckworth, and Dr. Jenner were in attendance. I had been much annoyed to hear just before dinner that our saloon carriage could not go under some tunnel or arch beyond Carlisle, and that I must get out and change carriages there. •-ff a- -02 ( 72 ) Wednesday, August 21. The railway carnage swung a good deal, and it was very hot, so that I did not get nuicli sleep. At half-past seven I was woke up to dress and hurry out at Carlisle, which we did at a quarter to eight. Here in the station we had some break- fast, and waited an hour till our carriage was taken off and another put on (which they have since found out was quite unnecessary !) The morning, which had been gloomy, cleared and became very fine, and we went on along such a pretty line through a very pretty country, th.rough Eskdale and past Nethcrby, as far as Riddiiiirs, and then leaving the Esk entered Liddesdalc, the railway running along the Liddel Water to Ric- carton station, where we stopped for a moment. We ne.xt came along the Slitrig Water to Hawick, where we went slowly, which the people had begged us to do, and where were great crowds. Here we entered Teviotdale and descended it, entering the valley of the Tweed at St. BosivclPs. Between St Boswcirs and Kelso at Roxburgh station, we cro-^sed the Teviot again. We passed t ■ff Hi t& ^2 { /J ) close under the EiUion Hills, tlircc hij^Ii points rising- from the background. The country is extremely picturesque, valleys with fine trees and streams, intermingled with great cu'tivation. Only aft(;r half-past eleven did \vc reach Kelso station, whi.h was very prettil) decorated, and where were standing the Duke and Duchess of Roxburghc, Lord Bowmont, the Duke of Buc- cleuch, and Lord C. Ker, as well as General Hamilton, commanding the forces in Scotland. We got out at once. I embraced the dear Duchess, and shook liands with the two Dukes, and then at once entered the carriage (mire) with Lenchen, Louise, and the Duchess; Beatrice, Leopold, and Christian going in the second, and the others following in other carriages. The morning beautiful and very mild. We drove through the small suburb of Afoxwell llcus^h, down into the town of Kelo, and over the bridge which commands a beautiful view of the broad stream of the Tweed and of the Park of Floors, with the fine house itself. Everywhere decorations, and g-reat and most enthusiastic crowds. The little town of Kelso is very pic- turesque, and there were triumphal arches, and ■ff cfr ■ff a- a ( 74 ) no end of pretty mottoes, and every lioir.e was decorated with flowers and flags. Fifty ladies dressed in white strewed flowers as we passed. Volunteers were out and bands playing. At the Market Place the carriage stopped ; an address was presented, not read ; and a little girl was held up to give me an enormous bouquet. Immense and most enthusiastic cheerinp-. We then drove on, amidst continued crowds and hearty cheers, up to the very park gates, where the old Sheriff, eighty-five years old, was presented. The park is remarkably fine, with the approach under splendid beech, sycamore, and oak trees. The house very handsome, built originally by Sir John Vanbrugh in 1718, but much 1. iproved by the present Duke. You drive under a large porch, and then go up a flight of steps to the hall. The Duke's band was stationed outside. Mr. and Lady Charlotte Russell, Mr. Suttie, and Lady Charles Ker were in the hall. The Duchess took us into the library, where the Duke of Buccleuch joined us, and, after waiting a little while, we had breakfast (ourselves alone) in the really splendid dining-room adjoining, i^t ten minutes past twelve. This over, the Duchess showed us to our rooms [& w a- Eh ( -5 ) upstairs, I hnd three that were very comfortable, opening one in'" the other: a sitt ng-room, dress- ing-room, a'^d t'le largest of the three, the bed- room, simple, whh pretty chintz, but very elegant, nice and comfortal)le. The children were close at hand. But the feeling of loneliness when 1 saw no room for my darling, and felt I was indeed alone and a widow, overcame me very sadly ! It was the first lime I had gone in this way on a visit (like as in former times), and I tliought ao much of all dearest Albert would have done and said, and how he would have wandered about everywhere, admired everything, looked at everything — and now ! Oh ! must it ever, ever be so ? At half-past two lunched (as at home) in the fine dining-room. A lovely day. The view from the windows beautiful. The distant Cheviot range with a crreat deal of wood, Kciso embosomed in rich woods, with the bridge, and th^^ Tweed flowing beneath natural grass terraces which go down to it. Very fine. It reminded me a little cf the view from the Thccnix Park near Dublin. At half-past five walked out with Lcnchen and the kind Duchess to a spot where I planted a ta ■ff a- -a ( 76 ) tree * and then wc walked on to tlie flower garden, where there are a number of very fine hot-houses, and took tea in a pretty Htde room adjoining them, which is entirely tiled. After this we took a pleasant drive in the fine park which is full of splendid tim- ber, along the Tweed, and below the ruins of the celebrated old Castle of Roxburgh, of which the :; is very little remaining It is on a high eminence ; the Tweed ^x\<\ Tevioi :irc on cither side of it, so that the position is remarkably strong. It stood many a siege, and was frequendy taken by the English and retaken by the Scotch. Scotch and even English kings, amongst them Edward III., held their Court there. We came home a: eight. The Duke and Duchess dined with us, and after dinner we watched the illuminations and many bonfires from the library, and afterwards went for a moment into the drawing-room to see the ladies and gentle- men, after which I went up to my room, where I sat and rested, feeling tired and only able to read the newspapers. * The gardener, Hertor Rose, hcrame head garclcnir at Windsor in the spring of 1868, and died, alasl June 5, 1S72, fificr having filled his situation admirably. i- # £i- -a ( 77 ) Thursday, August 22. A fine morning, though rather hazy. The night and moonhght had been beautiful. Breakfasted with our family in the break fast- room. At twenty minutes to eleven went and sat out under some trees on the lawn near the house writing, where 1 was quite quiet and undisturbed, and remained till half-past twelve, restmg reading, etc. Imme- diately after luncheon started m two carriages, the Duchess and our two daughters with me ; Chiis- lian, the Duke, Lady Charlotte Russell, and Lord Charles Fitz-Roy in the second carriage (with post- horses). We had the Duke's horses as far as Ravciisiuood. We drove through Kelso, which was full of people, crossed the Tivccd and Tevnt (where the waters join), and passed below the old Castto 0/ Roxburgh. The country is very pretty, hilly, wooded, and cultivated. Not long after we started, the second carriage disappeared, and we waited for it. It seems that, at the first hill they came to, the wheelers would not hold up. So we stopped (and this df'layed us some time), the leaders replaced the wheelers, and they came on (tU- -ff a- ft a ( 78 ) with a pair. Then we drove up to Si. Boswcirs Green, with tiie three fine EiUion hills before us — which are said to have been divided by Michael Scott, the wizard — seeing Alerioun, my excellent Lord PoKvarth's place, on the other side of the road. Alas! he died only last Friday from a second stroke, the first of which seized him in February ; and now, when he had intended to be at the head of the volunteers who reCv ived me at Kelso, he is lying dead at his house which we passed so near! It lies low, and quite in among the trees. I lament him deeply and sin- cerely, having liked him very much, as did my dearest Albert also, ever since we knew him in 185S. We changed horses at Ravcnswood, or old Mel- rose (where I had my own), having caught a glimpse of where Dryburgh Abbey is, though the railway almost hides it. The Duke of Bucrleuch met us there, and rode the whole way. Every- where, wherever there were dwellings, there was the kindest welcome, and triumphal arches were erected. We went by the side of the Eildon Hills, past an immense railway viaduct, and nothing could be prettier than the road. The CQ-. # q -a [fi- -a ( 79 ) position of Melrose is most picturesque, sur- lounded by woods and hills. The little village, or rather town, of Neivstcad, which we passed through just before coming to Melrose, is very narrow and steep. We drove straight up to the AbUy through the grounds of the Duke of Buccleuch's agent, and got out and walked about the ruins, which are indeed very fine, and some of the architectute and carving in beautiful preservation. David I., who is described as a " sair Saint," originally built it, but the Abbey, the ruins of which are now standing, was built in the fifteenth century. We saw where, under the high altar, Robert Bruce's heart is supposed to be buried ; also the tomb of Alexander II., and of the celebrated wizard, Michael Scott. Reference is made to the former in some lines of Sir Walter Scott's in the " Lay of the Last Minstrel," which describes this Border country : — Tlicy Fat them down on a marble stone; A Scottish monarch slept below. And then when Deloraine takes the book from the dead wizard's hand, it says — He thought, as he took it, the dead man frowned. qj-- L^ cD- -a 4 L . ( So ) Most truly does Walter Scott say — If ihou wouldst view fair Melrose arij^lil, Go visit it by the pale moonliglit. It looks very gfhostlike, and reminds rne a little of Hofyrood Chapel We walked in the church- yard to look at the exterior of the Abbey, and then re-entered our carriages and drove through the densely crowded streets. Great enthusiasm and hearty affectionate loyalty Many decora- lions. A number of people from Galaskicis, and even from the North of England, had ccme into the town and swelled the crowd , many also had spread themselves along the outskirts. We took the other side of the valley returninj^, and saw Galashiels, very prettily situated, a flon- rishinsj town famous for its tweeds and shawls ■ the men are called the " braw lads of Gala Water" Another twenty minutes cr hatt-uour brought us to Abbotsford, the well-known residence of Sir Walter Scott. It lies low and looks rather gloomy. Mr. Hope Scott and Lady Victoria * (my god- daughter and sister to the present Duke of • Slie died in 1870. i& # -Eb &T ( ol ) -^ Norfolk) with tlicir children, the young Duke of Norfolk, and some other relations, received Mr. Hope Scott married first Miss Lock- us hart, the last surviving grandchild of Sir Walter Scott, and she died leaving only one daughter, a pretty girl of eleven, to whom this place will go, and who is the only surviving descendant of Sir Walter. They showed us the part of the house In which Sir Walter lived, and all his rooms — his drawing-room with the same furniture and carpet, the library where we saw his MS. of " Ivanhoe," and several others of his novels and poems in a beautiful handwriting with hardly any erasures, and other relics which Sir Walte. had himself collected. Then his study, a small dark room, with a little turret in which is a bust in bronze, done from a cast taken after death, of Sir Walter. In the study we saw his journal, in which Mr. Hope Scott asked me to write my name (which I felt it to be a presumption in me to do), as also the others. We went through some passages into two or three rooms where were collected fine specimens of old armour, etc., and where in a glass case are Sir Walter's last clothes. We ended by going into ^■ --ff d± -a ( 82 ) the dinlncf-room, in which Sir Waher Scott died where we took tea. . . . We left at twenty minutes to seven — very late. It rained a little, but soon ceased. We recrosscd the Tweed, and went by Gattonmie to Leaderfoot Bridge. Here we were met by the Berwickshire Volunteers, commanded by Lord Binning (Lord Haddington's son), who as Deputy Lieutenant rode a long way with us. Here was a steep hill, and the road surrounded by trees. We passed soon after through Gladswood, the property of Mr. Meiklam, at whose house-door we stopped, and he and Mrs. Meiklam were presented, and their daughter gave me a nosegay. Just after this we entered Bcrivickshire. Changing horses and leaving this place, going over Gateheiigh, we came upon a splendid view, overlooking a great extent of country, with a glen deep below the road, richly wooded, the river at the bottom, and hills in the distance ; but unfortunately the "gloaming"* was already commencing — at least, the sun was gone down, and the evening was grey and dull, though very mild. We passed Bemersyde, which is eventually to belong to • The Scotch word for "twilight." B- ■ff ■dP .i i' (fl- -& "B- ( 83 ) Alfred's E(|ucrry, Mr. Haig,* and through the village of Mcrloun, behind the park ; and it was striking to see the good feeling shown by the people, who neither displayed any decorations nor cheered, though diey were out and bowed, as their excellent master, Lord Polwarth, was lying dead in his house. It was nearly dark by tliis time, but we got well and safely home by ten minutes to nine. The Duke of Buccleuch rode with us some way beyond Gladswood. We did not come through Kelso on our way back. In passing Aferlouii we left the old tower of Sinailliohn to the left, the scene of the " Eve of St. John." We only sat down to dinner at half-past nine, and I own I was very tired. The Duke of Buccleuch was only able to come when dinner was half over. Besides him the Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe, Lord Bowmont, Lady Charles Ker, and Mr. Suttie made the party at dinner. Lady Susan was prevented by indisposition from being there. Nobody could be kinder, or more discreet, or more anxious that I should be undisturbed when at home, than the Duke and Duchess. I only * He succeeded to the property in 1878. 8 » -i f ( 84 ) stopped a few minutes downstairs after dinner, and then went up to my room, but it was then nearly eleven. The others went into the drawing- room to meet some of the neighbours. ft Friday, Aiej^usi 23. A dull morning, vcv close, with a little incHna- tion to rain, though o;ily for a short time. Break- fast as yesterday. At twenty minutes to eleven we started: I with our daughters and the Duchess ; Christian with dear Beatrice, the Duke of Marl- borough (the Minister in attendance), and Lady Susan Melville, in the second carriage ; and the Duke of Roxburghe, Lord Charles F'itz-Roy, Sir Thomas Biddulph, in the third, with Colonel Gordon and Dr. Jenner on the box.* We pro- ceeded through Kelso, which was very full, and the people most loyal ; by the village of Hcilon, prettily decorated with an arch (two young girls dressed in white threw nosegays), and up the rivers Teviot and yed, which flow through charm- ing valleys. The town of ycdburgh is very prctti y * Brown and the sergeant footman, Collins, were (as usual) on the seat behind my carria;^e. ^^ 4 a ;fl^ -a ! 4 { «5 ) sitiiatctl, and is about the same size as Kcho, only wiihonr its large shops. It is, ■ owever, the capital of the county. It was very crowded, and very prettily decorated. The town is full of histo- rical recollections. Kintj Malcolm IV. died there; William the Lion and Alexander II. resided there; Alexander III. married his second wife, Juletta, daughter of the Comte de Dreux, there ; and Queen Mary was the last sovereign who came to administer severe justice. The Duchess pointed out to me a house up a side street in the town where Queen Mary had lived and been ill with fever. In the square an address was pre- sented, just as at Kelso, and then we went on down a steep hill, having a very good view of the old Abbey, as curious in its way as Melrose, and also founded by David I. There is a very fine ruined abbey in Kelso also. There were four pretty triumphal arches ; one with two very well chosen inscriptions, viz., <.•> one side " Freedom makes all men to have lyking," and on the other side " The love of all thy people comfort thee." We w :t on through a beautiful wooded valley up the Jed, in the bank of which, in the red stone, ^ -0^ cS- 1 ( S6 ) are caves in wliich the Covenanters were hid. We passed Lord Cranstoun's place, Crailih)^, and then turned, and close before the town we turned into yed Forest — up an int(^rminable hill, which was very trying to the horses and the postilions— and returned through the grounds o{ Hariri :^ge, the late Lord Campbell's, now occupied by a Mr. Gordon. We then returned by the same road we came, passing Kirkbixnk, belonging to tlie Duke of Buc- cleuch, where his late brother, Lord John Scott, used to live. Here the horses were watered. We stopped for a few minutes, and the Duke of Biiccleuch, who had ridden with us the greater part of the way, into ycdburgli and back to this place, took leave. We only got home near three o'clock. We lunched at once, and then I rested. Only at half- past si-x did I go out with Lenchen and the good Duchess, and walked with them to the flower- garden, where, as it began to rain, we took tea in the small room there. Lenchen walked back with the Duchess, who returned to me, and I sat out a little while with her, and then walked back to the house. It was a very oppressive evenin'T. r;"'-^- -ET o L, .1 -EP y £r ^ 87 ) At half-past cij^lit wc dined. The Duke and Duchess, Mr. and Lady Charlotte Russell, and Lord Charles Ker dined. Went upstairs and wrote. At ten minutes to eleven we left Floors, where I had been most kindly received, and had been very comfortable and enjoyed all I saw, and felt much all the kindness of high and low. The carriages were open, and the night very warm and starlight. There were lamps all along the drive in the Park; the bridge was illuminated, and so was the whole town, through which we went at a foot's pace. It was densely crowded, the square especially, and the people very enthusi astic. The dear Duchess went with us to the station, whither the Duke and his sons had pre- ceded us willi the oilicrs. It was a very pretty sight. The Free Ktrk\ a pretty building, was lit up with red lijjht, which almost gave it the appearance of being on fire. We took leave of the dear Duchess and the Duke, got into our railway carriage, and started at once. a ^ a- --Qi c. ( 88 ) i Saliirday, Aiti^iist 24. We passed through Edinburgh. At eight a.m. we were at Ballatcr. Some coffee and tea were handed in to us before we left the train and got into our carriages. A fine and very mild morning, the heather hardly out, but all very green ; and at ten minutes to nine we were at our dear Balmxral. cfr --w -Qi r ■a ( Sg ) Visit to Gi.knfiddicii. I -^ Tuesday. Scptauhcr 24, 1867. A brio-ht niornin-, but a fearful gale blowing. The nuiids, liniilie and A. nie and Lady Churchill's maid, with Ross and the luggage, started at a little past .seven. Breakfasted at a quarter past nir.e ; and at ten, taking leave of Lenchen, darling Beatrice, and the boys,\nd Christian, started with Louise and Jane Churchill— Brown, as usual, on the box. Sir Thomas Biddulph had gone on at eight. We drove up by Alt Craichie on to Gairnshicl, and anything like the wind I cannot describe. It blew through everything. Just beyond Gairnshid we took another change of my own horses, which took us up that very steep hill called Glaschoil. Here we met the luggage with Blake,* which had * A fuotman, now one of the I'aijcs of tlie rrvscnro. ■^ e- -a ( 90 ) stuck completely, but was going on with the help of four cart or farm horses, aril then we went on 1))' TonialtoiJi and Cock Brigg, where we crossed tlie Don. At the small inn at the foot of the hill, called Biid^c End, we found the maids' carriage lialting. They were waiting for the luggage, but we sent them on. Our postilions next look a wrong road, and we had to get out to cnaMc them to turn. Then came a very steep hill, the be- ginning of very wild and really grand scenery. Louise and Jane Churchill walked up to the top of this hill, and then we went down another very steep one, seeing a fearfully long ascent before us. We changed horses, and took a pair of po^t-horses here. Steep green hills with a deep ravine on our left as we went up, and then down again, this fearful hill— surely three miles in. length — called Lecht. At the bottom we entered a glen, or rather pass, very wild, and the road extremely bad, with rapid turnings. Near this there arc iron mines belonixinof to the Duke of Richmond. Here we met a drove of very fine Highland cattle grazing. Turning out of this glen we came into much more cultivated land with farms anil trees, skirted by hills in the distance — all very clear, as f:u. -ff J f -a 1 . -ff [& ■a ( 91 ) the views had been all along. By half-past one we came close by Tommtonl, which lies very prettily amongst the trees, hills, and fields ; then leavmg it to our left, we went on about a mile and a half beyond the town ; and here by the roadside, on some grass below a heathery bank, at about a quarter-past two, we took our luncheon, and walked a little. 'Ihe Duke of Richmond's keeper, Lindsay by name, joined us here and rode before us. We changed horses (again a pair) and drove on, entering Glen Livel through the sn'iall village of Knockandhu — Hlair fmdy Castle on the left, just behind the celebrated Glciilivct Disliltery. We drove on si.\ miles ; pretty country all along, distant high hills and richly cultivated land, with houses and cottages doited about. At Tomnavoiilin, a farm, not far from a bridge, we met Sir Thomas Biddulph (who had driven on in a dogcart) and our ponies. Though the wind had gone down a good deal, there was quite enough to make it disagreeable and fatiguing, and .so we decided to drive, and Sir Thomas said he would ride across with the l)onies and meet the Uuke, while his head keeper was to come on the box with Brown and show us ^~ --ff [fl- ■a T]- ( 92 ) ti ). ic way (Cirant did not^ 1^0 with us this tune We drove on for an hour and mere, having entered Glen Rinnes shortly after Toninavoulin, with the hills of Bcu Rinnes on the left. There were fine large fields of turnips, pretty hills and dales, with wood, and distant high hills, but nothiiig grand. The day became duller, and the mist hung over the hills ; and just as we sat down by the roadside on a heathery bank, where there is a very pretty view of Glcnlivct, to take our tea, it began to rain, and continued doing so for the remainder of the evening. Lindsay, the head keeper, fetched a ket le with boiling water from a neighbouring farmhouse. About two miles beyond this we came through Dufftown — a small place with a long steep street, very like Grantotun — and then turned abruptly to the right past Aiichui- doun, leaving a pretty glen to the left. Three miles more broug^ht us to a Iodide and tratc, which was the entrance of Glcnjiddich. Here you go quite into the hills. The glen is very narrow, with the Fiddich flowing below, green hills rising on either side with birch trees growing on them, much like at Inchrory, only narrower. We saw deer on the tops of the hills close by. The carriage- -•^ ct a -a A - — Hi ' ( 93 ) road — a very good one — winds along for nearly three miles, when you come suddenly upon the lodge, the position of which reminds me very much of Co7'n Davon* only that the glen is narrower and the hills just round it steeper. It is a long shooting lodge, covering a good deal of ground, but only one story high. We reached it at half-past six, and it was nearly dark. Sir Thomas received us, but he had missed the Duke ! A message had, however, at once been sent after him. On entering the house there is one long, low passage, at the end of which, with three windows, taking in the whole of each side and looking three different ways, is the drawing- room, where tea was prepared We went along the r-assage to our rooms, which were all in a row. Another long passage, a little beyond the hall door, went the other way at right angles with the first, and along that were offices and servants' bedrooms. Next to the drawing-room came the dining-room, then Sir Thomas Biddul[jh's room, then ihe Duke's, then Brown's and Ross's (in one), then Louise's, then mine, then Hmilie's and Annie's (in one), then, a little further hack, Jane * Near Balmoial, not far from I.otli lUili;;. rfr ■ff a- *~t] ( 94 ) Churcliill's and her maid's — all very comfortably and convenicnlly lo^elhcr. IJul ilu)u;.rh our niaitls had arrived, not a Lit of Ing.^^afj^e. We waiteii and waited till dinner-time, but nothin*:^ came. So we ladies (for Sir Thomas had wisely brought some things with him) had to go to dinner in our riding skirts, and just as we were. I, having no cap, had to put on a black lace veil of Emilie's, which she arranged as a coiffure. I had been writing and resting before dinner. The Duke (who remained at Glcnjiddicli) and Sir Thomas dined with us ladies. None of the maids or servants had any change of clothing. Dinner over, I went with Louise and Jane to the drawing-room, which was given me as my sitting room, and Jane read. While at dinner at half-past nine, Ross told us that Hlake, the footman, had arrived with some of the smaller things, but none of the most necessary — no clothes, etc. The break with the lusj^gaoe had finally broken down at Tominloul; from thence Blake had gone with a cart to Dufftown, where he had got a small break, and brought the light things on, but the heavier luggnge was coming in a cart, and they hoped would be here cg_- -I? II -a [S~ ( 95 ) by twelve o'clock. At first It seemed as if no horses were to be had, and it was only with the greatest difficulty that some were at last ob- tained. Louise and Jane Churchill left me at near eleven o'clock. I sat up writing and waiting for this luggage. A man was sent out on a pony with a lantern in search of it, and I remained writing till a quarter- past twelve, when, feeling very tired, I lay down on the sofa, and Brown (who was indefatigable) went out himself to look for it. At one, he came back, saying nothing was to be seen or heard of this luckless luggage, and urged my going to bed. My maids had unfortunately not thought of bringing anything with them, and I disliked the idea of going to bed without any of the neces- sary toilette. However, some arrangements were made which were very uncomfortable ; and after two I got into bed, but had very little sleep at first ; finally fatigue got the better of discomfort, and after three I fell asleep. ft IB- -ff & a ( ?6 ) ^ Wednesday, September 25. Slept soundly till half-past seven, and heard that the luggage had only arrived at half-past four in the morning. Breakfasted with Louise, who made my coffee beautifully with Brown, who waited ut breakfast, Ross coming in and out with what had to be carried. It rained soon after I got up, and continued raining till near eleven. I read and wrote, etc. At half-past eleven, it having cleared, I rode up the small narrow glen, down which flows a *' burnie " (called the Garden Burn), the banks covered with fern and juniper, heather and birch, etc., past the kitchen-garden. Louise walked with me. Went up nearly to the top and walked down it again, then on to the stables, which are at a small distance from the house, where 1 saw an old underkeeper, P. Stewart by name, seventy-four years old, with a Peninsular and Waterloo medal, who had been in the 92nd Highlanders, and was a great favourite of the late Duke's. Home by twenty minutes to one. The day became very fine and warm. Lunched in my own room with Louise at the same small 9- -ff > a a- ■a ( 97 ) table at which we had breakfasted, Ross and the Duke's piper playing outside the window. After luncheon rode (on Sultan, as this morn- ing) with Louise and Jane Churchill, the Duke walking (and Jane also part of the way), down to the end of Glenfiddich ; turning then to the left for Bridi^ehaiigh (a ford), .nd going on round the hill of Ben Main. We first went along the road and then on the heather " squinting " the hill — hard and good ground, but disagreeable from the heather being so deep that you did not see where you were going — the Duke's forester leading the way, and so fast that Brown led me on at his full speed, and we distanced the others entirely. At five we got to the edge of a small ravine, from whence we had a fine view of the old ruined castle of AcJicndoxvn, which formerly belonged to the old Lords Hundy. Here we took oiir tea, and then rode home by another and a shorter way — not a bad road, but on the steeper side of the hill, and quite on the slant, which is not agreeable. We came down at the ford, and rode back as we went out, getting home at seven. A very fine evening. It was very nearly dark when we reached home. I was very tired ; I am no longer equal to much fatigue. 'ff \ ffr -ff -Cj ( 98 ) a Thursday, September 26. Slept very well and was much rested. At half- past twelve I started with Louise on ponies (I on Sultan), and Jane Churchill, the Duke of Rich- mond, and Sir Thomas walking-, rode past the stal)les on a cjood road, and then turned to the rijj;ht and went up dcufiddicli for about four miles. The scenery is not grand, hut pretty ; an open valley with green and not very high hills, some birches, and a great deal of fern and juni- per. After about three miles the glen n.'irrows and is extremel)' pretty ; a narrow stce[) path overhaneinof a burn leads to a cave, which tlie Duke said went a long way under the hill. It is called the Elf House. There is a snial' space of level ground, and a sort of seat arranged with stones, on which Louise and I sat ; and here we all lunched, and then trie.d to sketch. Out I could make nothing of the cave, and therefore scrambled up part of the hill with great trouble, and tried again but equally imsuccessfully, and had to be he]i)ed down, as I had been helped up, by Brown. \\"c were here nearly an hour, and T3- ■ff ■-EJ3 I d3- ( 99 ) then, after walkin;:^ clown the steep path, we got on our ponies and rode up to the left, another very steep and narrow path, for a short while on the brink of a steep high bank with the Fiddich below. We emerged from this ravme and came upon moors in the hills (the whole of this is " the forest "), and rode on a mile and a half till near the head of the Livci on the right of the Sowie, a high, bare, heathery, mossy hill ; Cairn-ta-Brtiar to the left. Here we had a fine view of Ben Avcn and Bcnna-Bourd, and this was the very way we should have ridden from Tonuiavoulin. We had a slight sprinkling of rain, but very little at this time. We saw eight stags together at a distance. Oh ! had dearest Albert been here with his rifle ! We rode on and back till we came to a sheltered place near the burnside, about one mile and three- quarters from Gicnjiddick Lodge, where one of the Duke's keepers had prepared a fire and got a kettle boiling, and here we took our tea. After- wards I sketched, but we were surrounded by a perfect cloud of midges which bit me dreadfully. The gentlemen left us, after tea, and walked home. I walked a liiilc while, and then rode back by a quarter to seven. A beautiful mild evening, the fh ■f? f& ■ff s- -ii ( 'oo ) sky a lovely colour. Dear i^ood Sharp* was with us and out each day, and so affectionate. A. Thomson, S. Forbes, Kennedy, and J. Stewart, the latter with the ponies, as well as the r3uke's forester Lindsay, were out with us. Dinner as yesterday. Jane Churchill finished reading " Pride and Prejudice" to us after dinner. A very clear starlight night. Friday, September 27. A fair but dull morning. These quiet break- fasts with dear Louise, who was most amiable, attentive, and cheerful, were very comfortable, just as they had been in 1 S65 with good Lenchen, and in 1806 with Louise at Dunkcld. Sketched hastily the stables from one window, and the approach from the other. The house in itself is really a good one, the rooms so well sized and so conveniently placed, all close to each other. The cuisine, though very simple, was e.xcellent, and the meat etc. the very best — only a female cook. The Duke was very kind. At a (piartcr-past ten we left, taking leave of * A favourite collie of mine. ^1p- -ff ^ w a- ta [& ■a ( 1^1 ) tlic Duke at the tloor. Sir Thomas sat wiJi Brown on the box. The day was raw. Wo drove precisely the same way as wc came. In L)it(ftown the people had turned out, the bell was rung and the band played, but they seemed hardly sure till we had passed who it was. We drove through at a great rate. The day being fair, we could sec the country belter. At one we f;ot to the same place where we had lunched on Tuesday, and litre changed horses, and Sir Thomas left us and got into his dogcart and drove after us. The sun had come out, and th.e day was fine and warm. As we passed Tonina- vou/in, and in varioihs other places, people were out. We drove on for about two or three miles, and then stopped at twenty minutes to two, just before we turned into the glen of the Lec/ii Hills ; and here just below the road, under a bank on the grass, we sat down and took our luncheon, and sketched. Sir Thomas drove on, and we saw him again near the top of the hills, while we began the first very steep ascent, which seemed almost beyond the horses' power ; but though only a pair, they got us up admirably. Brown walked by the carriage all the Luue, being very ^- a- Cb t& ( I02 ) anxious about the road. Then clown ever so long, having a splendid view of the hills — the road being dreadfully rough and bad besides — then up again, and when it came to that very steep winding hill going down to Bridge End, we got out and walked to the bottom and aero: s the ford at Tornahoish over a foot-bridge. The view here was splendid, all the hills rising around, with the old Castle of Corgarff, and the river Don with the valley of the Don-side in the foreground. Here we found our horses and drove on. It was raining at this time (about four), and it rained several times during the eveninjf. We drove on, and after we passed Torna/ioish two or three miles, and had got up the long hill, we found a sort of I'.ole in the bank (such as are often met with where gravel and stones have been taken out), where wc took our tea. The kettle took some time boiling, as we had only cold water from the burn. When we go out only for the afternoon we take two bottles filled with hot water, which saves much time. Poor Louise had been suffering from tooth- ache all the time. We got safely home at ten minutes i)ast seven o'clock. [g--.- ff ^ a- ( 103 ) Unveiling of the PRiNcii's Statue at Balmokal. ■a Tuesday, October 15, 1867. Our blessed Engagement Day ! A dear and sacred day — already twenty eight years ago. How I ever bless it! A wet morning — most annoying and provoking ! At a quarter-past eleven in this distressing rain, which twice had given hopes of ceasing, I, with all the family and Janie Ely, drove to the spot, just above Middlctoiis Lodge, where were assembled all the servants and tenants, and the detachment of the 93rd Highlanders drawn up opposite, just behind the Statue. I and the chil- dren stood just in front of the Sta'.u.e, which was covered. A verse of the icoth Psaim was sung, and Mr. Taylor then stepped forward and offered \\\y a beautiful prajer (in pelting rain at that ^- W fl- ( '04 ) ^ moment), after which the order was jrlven to un- cover the Statue ; but (as happened at Aberdceii) the covering cM'gh .>nd it was a little while before it could be ij^,, , ,L.d trom the shoulder. The soldiers presented arms, and the pipes played, as we gazed on the dear noble figure of my beloved one, who used to be with us here in the pi ime of beauty, goodness, and strength. Then Dr. Roliertson stepped forward, and made a very pretty little speech in the name of the se:- vants and tenants, thanking me for the gift of the statue. He spoke remarkably well. This was followed by the soldiers firing a feu de joie ; then all cheered, and the whole concluded by " God save the Queen" being su'',, iKtrtmely well. cJ3_..-_, ■ff ^ a- ( '05 ) ft F.IRST Visit to the Gi.assalt Suifl. A House-warming. Thursday, October i, iSGS. At nearly four o'clock left with Louise and Jane Churchill for the Glassalt SInel. It was a beautiful evening, clear and frosty. We drove by BirkhaU and the Linn of illuic/i, where we stopped to take tea ; we had just finished when Arthur arrived from Ballatcr with Grant, who had gone to meet him there. He had travelled straight from Geneva, and looked rather tired, having besides had a bad passage. After walking a little we drove on, Arthur getting into the carriage with us, and Grant going with Brown on the box. We arrived at half-past six at the Glassalt Shiel, which looked so cheerful and com- fortable, all lit up, and the rooms so cozy and nice. There is a wonderful deal of room in the compact ^ [& -ff (B~* ■Q] ( io6 ) little house. A good staircase (the only one) leads to the upper floor, where are the rooms for Louise, Jane Churchill, her maid, and Arthur, in one passage ; out of this there is another, where are three rooms for Brown, the cook, and another servant ; in one of these Grant and Ross slept, and C. Thomson in the other. Below are my sitting-room, bedroom, and my maids' room ; and on the other side of our little hall the dining- room ; then a nice kitchen, small steward's room, store-closet, and another small room where two menservants slept. The small passage near my bedroom shuts off the rest, and makes it quite private and quiet. Good stables, and the keeper's cottage, where our gillies sleep, just outside at the back. We dined at about half-past eight in the small dininof-room. This over, after waiting for a little whiie in my sitting-room, Brown came to say all the servants were ready for the house-warming, and at twenty minutes to ten we went into the little dining-room, which had been cleared, antl where all the servants were assembled, viz., my second dresser,* C. Wilmore, Brown, Grant, Ross • She was in my service for thirteen years, and left in iS3i. cg- w a i£h- -a ( 107 ) (who played), Hollis (the cook), Lady Churchill's maid, Maxted, C. and A. Thomson, Blake (the footman), the two housemaids, Kennedy, J. Siewart (the stableman), and the policeman (who only comes to do duty outside at night). We made nineteen altogether. Five animated reels were danced, in which all (but myself) joined. After the first reel " whisky-tod Jy " was brought round for every one, and Brown begged I would drink to the "fire-kindling." Then Grant made a little speech, with an allusion to the wild place we were in, and concluding with a wish "that our Royal Mistress, our good Queen," should "live long." Tiiis was followed by cheers given out by Ross in regular Highland style, and all drank my health. The merry pretty little ball ended at a quarter-past eleven. The men, how- ever, went on singing in the steward's room for some time, and all were very happy, but I heard nothing, as tlie little passage near my bedroom shuts everything off. Sad thoughts filleil my heart both before dinner and when I was alone and retired to rest. I thought of the happy past and my darling husband whom I fancied I must see, and who always w th w f { loS ) wished to build here, in this favourite wild ^pot, quite in amidst the hills. At Altnagiuthasacli I could not have lived again now — alone. It is far better to have built a totally new house ; but then the sad thought struck me that it was the first Widows house, not built by him or hallowed by his memory. But I am sure his blessing docs rest on It, and on those who live in it ■a i& ff cB- ■a ( 109 ) "Juicing the Sheep," 1868. Tlmrsday, October i\. At a quarter to twelve I drove off with Louise and Leopold in the waggonette up to near the "Bush" (the residence of William Brown,* the farmer) to see them "juice the sheep." This is a practice pursued all over the Highlands before the sheep are sent down to the low country for the winter. It is done to preserve the wool. Not far from the burnside, where there are a few hillocks, was a pen in which the sheep were placed, and then, just outside it, a large sort of trough filled with liquid tobacco and soap, and into this the sheep were dipped one after the other ; one man (James Brown, f my shepherd, the elder brother, •who came up on purpose to help) took the sheep one • Brown's fourth brother. t Brown's eldest brother. tg- ■4 fl- fb ( "O ) by one out of the pen and turned them on their backs ; and then William and he, holding them by their legs, dipped them well in, after which they were let into another pen into which this trough opened, and here they had to remain to dry. To the left, a little lower down, was a cauldron boiling over a fire and containing the tobacco with water and soap ; this was then emptied into a tub, from which it was transferred into the trough. A very rosy-faced lassie, with a plaid over her head, was superintending this part of the work, and helped to fetch the water from the burn, while children and many collie dogs were grouped about, and several men and shepherds were helping. It was a very curious and picturesque sight. ^ -ff a- ( ■>' ) A Highland "Kirstnin" (Christening), iS68. ■a Sunday, October 24. At a quarter to four I drove, with Louise, Beatrice, and Lady Ely, to John Thomson the wood forester's house for the christening of their child, three weeks old. Here, in their little sitting- room, in front of the window stood a table covered with a while cloth, on which was placed a basin with water, a bible, and a paper with the certifi- cate of the child's birth. We stood on one side, and John Thomson in his Highland dress next the minister, who was opposite me at the head of the table. Barbara, his wife, stood next to him, with the baby in her arms, and then the old Thomsons and their un- married daughter, the Donald Stewarts, Grants, and Victoria, Morgan and sister, and Brown. Dr. Taylor (who wore his gown) then began with an address and prayer, giving thanlss " for a living mother and a living child," after which fol- -ff a- ^i ( 112 ) lowed another prayer ; he then read a few passages from Scripture, after which came the usual ques- tions which he addressed to the father, and to which he bowed assent. Then the minister told him — 'Present your child for baptism." After this the father took the child and held it while the minister baptised it, sprinkling it with water, but not making the sign of the cross, saying first to tliose present : " The child's name is Victoria ; " and then to the child : Victoria, I baptise thee in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost, One God blessed for ever. — Amen. The Lord bless thee and keep thee ! The Lord make His face to shine upon thee and be gracious unto thee I The Lord lift up His countenance upon thee and give thee peace ! The service was concluded with another short prayer and the usual blessing. I thouL;ht it most appropriate, touching, and impressive. I gave my present (a silver mug) to the father, kissed the little baby, and then we all drank to its health and that of its mother in whisky, which was handed round with cakes. It was all so nicely done, so simply, and yet with such dignity. ^ W ''A fh- ( 113 ) A Second Christening, 186S. ^ M On Monday, November i, I drove down at a quarter to four with Louise, Beatrice, Leopold (who was on the box with Brown), and Lady Ely, to the Bus/i (William Brown's) to witness the chris<:ening of his first child, just a week old, which was to be called Albert. The service was nearly the same, only two instead of three prayers, and the young mother with the child, who was only a week old, was seated by the fire, looking very nice, with the baby on her lap. The old mother, Mrs. Brown, in her white mutch, the three brothers, and a few neighbo-irs stood round the room. I gave my present, it was a touching and impres- sive sight to see the young father holding his child with an expression of so much devotion and earnestness. On this occasion a dinner was given by the father after we left, in which Dr. Taylor took part. -EP «■ *~tr { "4 ) V )vv Grant, 1869. -a k- On Sunday, August 22, 1869, I went to see old Mrs. Grant, whom I was grieved to see sitting in her chair supported by pillows, and her poor feet raised upon cushions, very much altered in her face, and, I fear, dying of dropsy. On August 26 I again saw her, and gave her a shawl and pair of socks, and found the poor old soul in bed, looking very weak and very ill, but bowing her head and thanking me in her usual way. I took her hand and held it. On the 27th she died. On the 28th I stopped at her cottage and went in with Louise and Leopold. We found all so clean and tidy, but all so silent. Mrs. Gor- don, her daughter, was there, having arrived jv t in time to spend the last evening and night with her ; and then she lifted the sheet, and there w -a cfl- a ( "5 ) the poor old womari; whom we had known and seen from the first here these twenty-one years, lay on a bier in her shroud, but with her usual cap on, peaceful and little altered, her dark skin takin.i' away from the usual terrible pallor of death. She had on the socks I gave her the day before yesterday. She was in her eighty-ninth year. ■^ i *- ■ff a- ■a ( "6 ) Visit to Invertrossaciis, 1869. Wednesday, September r, 1869. We got up at half-past seven, breakfasted at eight, and at half-past eight left Balmoral with Louise, Beatrice, and Jane Churcliill (Brown as always, unless I mention to the contrary, on the box), for Dallater. A high and rather cold wind, but very bright sun, dreadfully dusty. Colonel Ponsonby met us at the railway station, Emilie Dittweiler and Annie Macdonald, Ocklee (for the two girls), Jane Churchill's maid, Charlie Thomson, and the footman Cannon, went with us ; Blake, Spong with the luggage, A. Thomson, with Sharp (my faithful collie dog), and Annie Gordon (house- maid), Kennedy, Arthur Grant, and Hiley (the groom) with the ponies, all went yesterday, and three cooks came from London. We had a saloon carriage, but not my own. It grew hot in the '•9-* ^ ■a r ■ft ( n7 ) railway train. We st()p[)cd at Aberdeen and the Dndgeof Dun, where Jane Cliurcb.ill got into our carriag<^ and liad lunclieon with us ; but we could have no one to hc'p to pack and unpack it, which is now so comfortably arranged in my own rail- way carriage v here there is a communication with the attendants. Stopping a moment at Cjipar- Angus, we passed through Per//i, and had another short halt at Dir,tblaiie, where the people crowded very much. Mere we cfot a view of the old Cathedral, and turned off to Callander, which we reached at a quarter past three. There was a very well- b. haved crowd at the quiet station. Mr. and Lady Emily Macnaghten,* to whose house (which th(;y had most kindly lent us) we were going, and Sir Malcolm and Lady Helen MacGregor (he is Miss MacGregor's nephew, slie Lady Emily Mac- na^.d-!ten's niece), received us there. Their little girl gave me a nosegay. We at once got into our celebrated sociable, which has been to the top of the Fiirca in Sivilzcruind, etc., and had been sent on befon;. Colonel Ponsonby and Brown going on the box. We drove off at once with post-hon.e.; * Slio did in i'; ]. -ff 4^ — -ff a- -a { "S ) throii:j:h the small town of Callander, which con- sists of one lonj^ street with very few shops, and few good houses, but many poor ones. Poor Kanne* (who was to have managed everything, but had fallen ill) was still laid up there. We drove on, and, after about three-quarters of a mile's drive, came to Loch Vcnnachar, a fine lake about four mile s long, with Den Vonic and other high and beautiful mountains rising behind and around it. The road is thickly wooded with oak, birch, beech, mountain ;ish, etc. The house stands ex- trcMcly well on a high eminence, overlooking the loch and surrounded by trees, and you drive up through evergreens and trees of all kinds. Half an hour brought us to the door of the house, Inver- tvossachs, which is small and comfortable. At the entrance is a nice little hall in which there is a small billiard table ; to the left, be)t nd that, a very nice well- size-' dining-room witli one large window. To the right of the hall is the drawing- room, very much like the one at Invcrniark (Lord Dalhousie'.s) ; altogether the house is in that st) le, • My Director of Continental journeys who had been sen! to look at the house and to make arranjenients for my reception. ffr fi= a- fl] ( ^'9 ) but larger. The staircase is almost opposite the hall-door, and there is a narrow passage which goes on to the left and right, along which are Louise's, Baby's (Beatrice's), my sitting-room (a snug little room), and my bedroom (very good size) ; and out of that, two little rooms which I use as dressing- and bath-rooms, and Emilie Dittweiler's. Further on, round a corner as it were, beyond Louise's, are Lady Churchill's, her maid's, and Colonel Ponsonby's rooms, all very fair-sized and comforiable. Close to my dressing- re iis is a staircase which goes upstairs to where Dro^' n and our other people liv; . The rooms are very comforf ihly and simply furnished, and they have put down new carpc;s everywhere. In tlie absence of poor Kannc, whom we are so sorry for, Jungbluth, the cook, acts as stt A.ud, and showed us over the rooms. We took tea and rested a little, and at twenty minutes to six drove out with the two girls (sweet Beatrice very happy and v, ly good, the first time she had been without a governess) and Lady Cluirchill. We druve along the loch, which has always to be done, as there is no road on the Invcr- irossac/is side further than Invcrtrossachs itself, and ■ff t& -^cd tp-- -& ( 1 20 ) crossed over the bridge at Coi/antoglc/ord ccle brated in the '' Lady of the Lake," then lu the right down a steep hill and over the bridge by Kilniahog, where there are a few cottages and a turnpike, on through the Pass of Lcny, which is now (like every other burn and river) nearly dry, overhung by beautiful trees with very grand hills, remindinir nie much of Switzerland from their greenness, the rugged rocks, and the great amount of wood which grows at their base and a good way up. It reminded Louise and me very much of Pilatus \\'\t\\ its meadows and fine trees on the way to Hcrgessvyl. We went as far as the beginning of Lock Ltibn.iig, a very fine wild, grand-looking loch ; turning there and going back the same way. The view of Loch Vennachar, with the beautiful deep blue of Ben Venue and the other hills, was lovely. We came in at half-past seven. Darling Beatrice took her supper on coming in, but she came and sat with us while we were at dinner for a short while. Only four at dinner. We went out foi a moment afterwards. Very mild and starlight. Louise went to bed. Jane read a little to me in the drawing-room, but I v/ent upstairs soon, as I was tired. 43- ^ ^- ---fi) ( '^' ) T/if(rs(/(ry, September 2. A very fine, bright, warm morning. We de- cided to go on an expedition, but not to Loch Lomond, as we .should have to start so early. Breakfasted in the drawinir room with Louise and Beatrice. Tiien writing, etc. At twenty minutes to twelve I started in the sociable with Louise. Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and Colonel Ponsonby and Brown on the box, and drove (excellent post-horses, always only a pair) to Callaiuicr, but turned to the right short of it, and went on some little way. On coming to the top of a hill we saw Ben Lcdi, a splendid hill ; to the north lien VoirUch, and to the east the heights of Uaiu Var, a pink heathery ridge of no great elevation ; and in the distance, rising up from the horizon. Dim Myaf, and the JVallace I\Ioiniuiait on the Abbey Craig, near Stirling. We went across a moor, and then .soon passed Loch L^nfni!fcr 6. Misty earl)-, then beautiful and clear and very hot. Got up with a bad headache. At five minutes to eleven rode off with Beatrice, good Sharp going with us and having occasional " collie-shangies " * * A Scotch word for quarrels or "rows," but t.ikcn iVom fights between " collies." t -ff # -n € ( 140 ) with collies when we came near cottages (A. Thomson and Kennedy following). We rode out the same way we came back jesterday, and then up the same hill overlooking Loc/i Drunkic — which really is nearly dry — and on down the other side of the hill, as fast as we could go along a rough but very pretty road, which brought us, over perfumed pink heather interspersed with bracken, to a spot where you get a lovely glim[)se of Loch Achray and Ben Vcmic. We then continued along a wood past a few miserable cottages, but as private as if I were riding at Balmoral, out into the high road just at the Brii^ of Turk, and stopped at what is calk:d '' Fergu.^soiis Inn,'' but is in fact the very poorest sort of High- land cottage. Here lives Mrs. Fergusson. an immensely fat woman and a well-known character, who is quite rich and well dressed, but will not leave the place where she has lived all her life selling whisky. She was brought out and seemed delighted to see me, shaking hands with mc and patting me. She walks with a crulch, and had to sit down. We only stopped a very few minutes, and then went home as fast as we came, and got back by one. Tut Brown and the other tv/o q3- -EP 1^ -ni I •-Q ( >4i ) two men were as hot as the clay we went u[) the /^i{^/:i, and it was indeed very hot. Oar ride niuit have been eight miles altogether. My head still aching. At three, after luncheon, we started just as yesterday, and drove the same way as last Friday up the Pass of Lcny by Loch Lul)nai\s^, Stral'iyre and the King's House : here, instead of turning to the left to Baiquhidder, we went straight on f:>r four miles, till we came to Lech Earn Head. It was a beautiful and very hot afternoon. We stopped at the inn, which is quite a small place commanding a beautiful view of Loch Earn, which was splendidly lit up, the loch deep blue and the hills all lilac and violet. Sir Malcolm * and Lady Helen MacGregor with their two little children received us at the door and took us upstairs. They have got a very pretty little drawing-room (looking on to the loch), which they have arranged nicely and comfortably. The two little girls are dear little things, Malvina four and Margaret two years old. Sir Malcolm wore the kilt. He is a captain in the Navy, and showed us some curi- osities brouglit home from Neiv Zealand, also a bottle which is said to have belonged to Rob • lie died in 1879. ^ 1^ •ff a- fb fl- ( "42 ) Roy, anrl was given to Lady Helen by an old man in the parish, and a silver quaich out of wliich Prince Charles Edward had drunk, and which had belonged to Sir Malcolm's great-great-graiid- faihcr. Lady Melen is the late Lord Antrim's only child. Both were most kind and gave us some tea, and at half-past five we left on our re- turn. There was a small fricmlly crowd collected at the door, who cheered both wlicn we arrived and when we left. We changed horses here, or at least very near, in 1S42 on our way back from Tinmoulh. They said I mentioned the circum- stance in my book.* We drove through the grounds of Ediiichip, which belongs to Sir Mal- colm MacGregor (but was then let), on the way home, and came back the same road, reaching home by half-past seven. My headache, which had been very bad all day, got much better just before we got home. Tjicsday, Scptnnbcr 7. Received a letter from Colonel Elphinstone, dated 22nd from Halifax, with excellent accounts • Our Life in the lltgJdands, p. 31. tg-- -^ \:-M \ m ♦ -ct J f ^] ( 143 ) of clrar Arthur. The passa,i,fe had been a very good one ; he had niixcxl with everyone on board, and i ecn a j^^cneral lavourite — tlircc hundred cniif;ranls on !)oard. Walked, and rode a litlle, while the others walked. Tired and feelinL; ill. it turned wet and continued so all the evening We, however, determined to go to Loc/i Katrine, having ordered the steamer, and boats to row lo the Silver Slrami. So }{{ I went with tlie girls and Lady Churchill just as on the other days, but when we got there it was too wet to do anything ; so we only went on board the steamer, took our tea in the cabin below, ;i;id then drove back again by half-past seven. Wcdncsihiy, September S. A very bad night from a violent attack of neuralgia in my leg. I only got up after nine, and could hardly walk or stand, but was otherwise not ill. I took ;' little, but very little, breakfast, alone. I remained at home reading, writing, and resting on the sofa or in an arm-chair. I came down to luncheon. Brown helping me elown and up, but took it alone with the children in the drawing-room. Rested afterwards, and at twenty minutes to four -ff B- ■ff p^ fii ( '44 ) took a quiet but enjoyable drive with Jnne Churchill. It was not very bright, nor the distance very clear, but there were occasional gleams of bright sunshine which lit up the fine scenery. We drove to Loch Menteith, just the same way as on Thursday, and were surprised to find how short the distance was. After passing the gate of Rcdnock Castle we turned to the left and drove a short way close along the lochside [)ast the kirk and small village (composec^ of only two or th.ree houses) of Port Alcntii!h, getting a sjfood view of Iiiclnnahonic on the wa\'. We stopped to take our tea (which had been made before we went out, but was quite hot still) outside Rcdnock grounds, and then drove back again, but took another turn through Ca'landei\ and then along a road (above whicli a number of [)retty villas are built, and where }'ou have a very pretty view) which comes out at Kiliiiahog- Tnnipike. Then home by a quarter past seven. Found Sir William Jenner, whom we IkuI sent for, arrived. I dined l)elow (hobbling along a little better and downstairs without hclji) in the drawing-room with Louise and Jane Cluuchi'.l. U, I to \\\\ H'l trcj B.I f& -ff ra-- 1.-.I ifh ( M5 ) ^ Thursday, September 9. I had a really very fair night, and on i^'ctting up found I could walk much better, for which I was most thankful. I went down to breakfast as usual. Received again letters from dear Arthur and Colonel Elphinstone with excellent and favourable accounts of the good his presence had already done. At half-past eleven drove with Louise and Beatrice up the Pass of Leny as far as the commencement of Loch Lubnaig, in- tending' to sketch, but it was too late. We met first two large coaches covered with people on the narrowest part of the bridge going to Kilma- //<;;'", and then endless droves of wild-looking, and for the most part extremely small, shaggy High- land cattle with their drovers and dogs — most wild and picturesque — going to Falkirk Tryst, Tliey stop for nights on the road — we saw some droves grazing on the lower parts of the hills on our way to T.ocli Earn Head—':\x\d the; drovers get shelter with friends in the cottages and villages • ab(jut. Home at iialf-past one. Planted two (very small) trees in front of the house, as did Louise and Beatrice also. Luncheon as yesterday, only with 4|cb. -ff a- ft ( "46 ) the children. My leg very stiff, so that, with great regret, I had to give up going to LocJi Katrine for the last time, which I had so much wished. However, I did drive with Beatrice as far as the Trossac/is Inn and back, and got a glimpse of the beautiful TrossacJis and Loch Ac/way, with Ben Venue rising gloriously above it. I even made a slight outline of it, and returned, quite pleased at Jiis, by half-past seven, stopping to make and take our tea not far from home, I remaining in the carriage. Felt better altogether, and was able to come to the usual dinner, to which also Sir W. Jenner came. Dear Beatrice sat with us during part of the dinner, as she had done almost every night. Brown (the only upper servant in attendance, as I brought no page), who waited at all my meals, and did all the outdoors attendance on me besides, with the greatest handiness, cheer- fulness, and alacrity, and the three very good footmen, Blake, Cannon, and Charlie Tiiomson (one of seven brothe s, two of whom are also in my service, and one a gillie at Babnoral), did all the waiting at dinner and luncheon. Good Sharp was always in the dining-room, but remained quiedy lying down. cfr-- 4 r£H 5 '£&-- -J I r i :h- -a :(>?^ 1 ^^5| ii ( M7 ) Friday, Sfp.'onbcr lo. Raining cnrly, u'hich in.ule nic feel I had clone rij^ht in giving up going bv the SpitaL as I h.u! intended up to yesterday aftrrnoon. Felt, how- ever, better, and could walk with much greater ease. At half [)ast eleven we left Invcrlrossachs, the recullection of the ten da\s at which — quiet and cozy — and of the beautiful country and scenery I saw in the neighbourhood, though the last two days were spoilt by stupid indisposition, will e\'(:i be a ver\' pleasant one. The two girls and 1 drove in a Callander carriage, with Brown on tl'.e box. perched u[) alarminoly high, Jane Churchill and the two gentlemen having preceded us to the station at Callander. All our luggage, ponies and all, went with our train. We stopped outside Pevt.h for luncheon for a few minutes — and Jane Church'll came in again at Aberdeen for our tea — to enable Brown to come and help us. When we reached Ballater, where we got into two carfiages, it began to rain. Reached Balmoral ^A half-past six. }\J "* t, I -^rp a- ( MS ) SiiEiiP Ci.irriNT,, 1S70. -'1 Bo lit; oral, Moiidawjiiiie 13, 1S70. Drove off at half-past elcvcii on past J. Thom- son's liouse. Here, in the nearest adjohiing field, close to the wall, all the sheep (mine) were in a pen, and James Brown, the shepherd, and Mor- rison, my i^rieve at Invergcldcr, assisted by others (one, a brother of the Morgans), took them out one by one, tied their legs together, and then placed them on the laps cf f.he women who .vere seated on the ground, aud who clipped them one after the other, wonderp , ^-ll ith huge scissors or clippers. Fourw . seated in a sort of half-circle, of whom three were Mrs. Durran, Mrs. Leys (both these did their work adn- .ably), and Mrs. Morri- son, who seemed rather new at it, and had some difficulty with these great heavy sheep, which kicl; ^ ^ -a [B- ( M9 ) a q^O(i(l (leal. The clippers must take ihein between their knees, and it is very hard work. Four other women were silting- close under the wall, also clipping. Then the sheep were all marked ; and some, before bcin^^ clipped, had to have their h.orns sawn to presenc them growing into their heads. It was a very picturescjue sight, and quite curious to see t!ie splendid tiuLk wool peel off like a rei-ular ct)at. ■Bi 4 iQ- -O a- ( 150 ) liKTKOTIlAI. OF PrINCESS LoUISK TO TIIK MaKQUIS OF l.(j;;.\K, OcToLi.R 3, 1870. Bah moral Oilobi 'cr o> 187c Tills was an eventful daj' ! Our tkar Louise was ent,^a_i;ecl to Lord Lornc. The event took place duriiiLi a walk from the Giijssa/i S//ic/ to the /V/// Loc/i. She ha. I j^onc there with Janie 1£1)-, the Lord Chancellor (Lord Hatheile) ), and Lome. 1 haddri\en uidi Beatrice and the lion. Mrs. Ponsonb)' io /\ihnj?!ic/i ll't/Zs, two miles from /?u.'A a!cr, on tlic sou th SKle (» f tl le Dic wh<;re I had been many years n:^o. Unfor- tunately almost all the trees which covered th(; hills have been cut down. We j.(ot out and tasted the water, which is stront;Iy mprcjtjnated with iron, and looked at the bat!i and at the humble but very clean accommo- "{]- & ^ 1^ -a ( "SI ) elation in the curious little old inn, which used to be very much Irc'iucntcJ. Brown formerly stayed there for a year as servant, and then quantities of horses and goats were there. The same perfectly cloudless sky as on the two precedinij days. We j;ot home by seven. Louise, who returned some time after we did, told me that Lome had spoken of his devotion to her, and proposed to her, and that she had accepted him, knowiiic;' that I would approve. Though I was not unprepared for this result, I felt painfully the thought of losing her. Ikit I naturally gave my consent, and could only pray that she might be happ)-. -ff ^- -i a- ^ ( 152 ) Communion Sunday at CKATiiiii, 1S71. Balmoral, Sunday, November 13, 1871. A very bright moining with deep snow. At twelve o'clock I went to the kirk with my two ladies (the Duchess of Roxburghe and Lady Ely), Lord Bridport being also in attendance. At the end of the scM'mon betjan the service of the Com- munion, which is most touching and beautiful, and impressed and moved me more than I can express. I shall never forget it. The appearance of the kirk was very striking, with the tables in the cross seats, on either side facing the pulpit, covered with a white cloth. Neither Brown, though he came with us, nor any of our Scotch servants sat behind us, as usual, but all below, as every one does who intends taking the sacrament at the " first table," A table, ft -EP '^ I a- ( '53 ) also covered willi a wliitc clotli, was placed in front of the middle pew, directly facin<; the [)ulpit. The service was the same as that on ordinary Sundays until after the sermon, exccptirig that every psalm and prajcr had reference to the Lord's Supper, and the sermon was on the perfect obedience of the Son (Hebrews ii. lo). The prajer after the sermon was very short, after wliicli Dr. Taylor delivered an address from the pulpit, in which he very beautifully in\itcd all true penitents to receive the ci/mmunion, the hardened sinner alone to abstain. It was done in a very kind and encouraging tone. Ur. Taylor adopted part of (MIC of the English prayers, only shortened and simplified. , . . After this address — " the Fencing of the Tables," as it is called — the minister came down to the small table in front of the pul[)it, where he stood with the assistant minister, and the elder son either side, and while the 35th Paraphrase was being sung the ciders brought ill the Klenients, and placed them on the table, viz. the brc^ad cut into small pieces, antl two large plates lined with na])kins, and the wine in four large silver cups. The minister then read the ^ ^? r ( 154 ) words of the institution of the Lord's Supper, from I Corinthians xi. 23, and this was followed ijy a short but very impressive prayer of conse- cration. This done, he handed the bread Hrst, and then the wine, ri^ht and left to th(i elders, Francis Leys (Brown's r.nch,'), Symon " the merchant," Hunter, and Dr. Robertson, to dispense; himself givinj.'' both to one or two people nearest to him, who were in the middle pew, where tiie Thomsons all sit generally, and in which, on this occasion, were old Donald Stewart and his wife (eighty-six and eighty-one, looking so nice and venerable), the young Donald Stewarts, the Thomsons, old Mr. and Mrs. Brown (he eighty-one and very much bent, and she seventy-one). Old John l)rown and old Donald Stewart wore large plaids ; old Smith of Kintore was likewise in this pew. The bread was then reverently eaten, and the wine drunk, sitting, each person passing it en one to the other; the cup being replaced by eat ii on the table before them after they had pa: take n of the wine, and then ''le elder carried it on to the next pews, in whicn there were tables, until all those in that portion of the church pre|)ared for ^^ ^fI B^ ■a ( '55 ) the Lord's Supper, had communicated. After whicli the ciders replaced the lilcments on the lablc before the minister, who delivered a short address of thankfulness r^nd exhortation. He then fjavc out the 103rd Psalm, which was sunL,^ while the communicants were leaving the tables, to be occupied in turn by others We left after this. It would indeed be impos- sible to hay how deeply we wc;re impressed by tlie grand simplicity of the service. It was all so truly earnest, and no descrii)tion can do justice to the perfect devotion of the whole assemblage It was most touci.ing. and I longed much to join in it.* To see all these simple good people in their nice plain dresses (including an old woman in her mutch), so many of whom I knew, and some of whoni had walked far, old as they were, in the deep snow, was very striking. Almost all our own people were there. We came home at twenty minutes befop; two o'clock. * Since 187,^ I li.i\c regularly jiartaken of the Coni- niiiniun at Crathie every autumn, it being always gi\en at tiiat time. U"* I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 7 A y. 1.0 !i:"^i I.I 25 it i^a IIIIIM IIIIIM IL 6" 1.8 11-25 ill 1.4 11.6 ' y y^ PhotogTdi Sciences Corporation ■%^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 % a- -±-3 ( '56 ) a The "Spate," 1S72. 7 7/ escY^^j '.June 11, 1872. Brown came in soon after four o'clock, saying he had been down at the waterside, for a child had fallen into the water, and the whole district was out to try and recover it — but it must be drowned long- before this time. I was dreadfully shocked. It was the child of a man named Rattray, who lives at Cairn na-Craig, just above where the new wood-merchant has built a house, and quite close to the keeper Abercrombie's house, not far from Monaltric Farmliouse in the street. At a little before five, set off in the waggonette with Beatrice and Janie Ely, and drove along the north side of the river. We stopped a little way beyond TyncbaicJi, and saw the people wandering along the riverside. Two women told us that two children had fallen in (how terrible !), and that one " had c& -&■ a- ■a -D' ( 157 ) been gotten — the little een " (as the people pro- nounce "one"), but not the eldest. They were searching everywhere. While we were there, the old grandmother, Catenach by name, who lives at Scutter Hole, came running along in a great state of distress. She is Rattray's mother. We drove on a little way, and then turned round. We heard from the people that the two boys, one of ten or eleven and the other only three, were at Monaltrie Burn which comes down close to the farmhouse and below Mrs. Patterson's shop, passing under z little bridge and running into the Dee. This burn is generally very low and small, but had risen to a great height — the Dee itself being tremendously high — not a stone to be seen. The little child fell in while the eldest was fishing ; the other jumped in after him, trying to save his little brother ; and before any one could come out to save them (though the screams of Abercrombie's child- ren, who were with them, were heard) they were carried away and swept oy the violence of the current into the Dee, and carried along. Too dreadful ! It seems, from what I heard coming back, that the poor mother was away from home, having gone to see her own mother who was U *" -^3 e^ ^ ( I5S ) dyingf, and tliat slic purposely kept this eldest boy back from school to watch the little one. We drove back and up to Mrs. Grant's, where we took tea, and then walked up along the river- side, and heard that nothing had been found and that the boat hatl gone back ; but as we approached nearer to the castle we saw people on the banks and rocks with sticks searching : amongst them was the p'^or father — a sad and piteous sight — crying and looking so anxiously for his poor child's body. JVet/ticsi/jy, yune 12. Drove up to the Biis/i to warn Mrs. William Brown never to let dear little Albert run about alone, or near to the burn, of the danger of which she was quite aware. She said her husband, William, had started off early at three this morn- ing. Some people went down to Abcrgcldie and as far as the Girnoch to search, and others were up and below the castle. No word of the poor child being found. All were to start early to scarcli. ^B- W 43 ^. a- ft ( >59 ) Thursday, June 13. At half-past ten drove out in the waggonette with Beatrice and Janie Ely, and drove beyond Mrs, Patterson's "shoppie" a little way, and turned up to the right off" the road behind the wood-merchant's new cottage, and got out just below Abercronibie the keeper's house, and walked a few paces on to the small cottage called Cairn-na-Craig, at the foot of Craig Noerdic, in a lovely position, sheltered under the hill, yet high, with a beautiful view o{ Lochnagur. Brown went in first, and was received by the old grand- mother ; and then we went in, and on a table in the kitchen covered with a sheet, which the> lifted up, lay the poor sweet innocent "Lairnie," only three years old, a fine plump child, and looking just as though it slept, with quite a pink colour, and very little scratched, in its last clothes -—with its little hands joined — a most touching sight. I let Beatrice see it, and was glad she should see death for the first time in so touching and pleasing a form. Then the poor mother came in, calm and quiet. t- & a- -a c; ( >6o ) though she cried a Httle at first when I took her hand and said how much I felt for her, and how dreadful it was. She checked herself, and said, with that great resignation and trust which it is so edifying to witness, and which you see so strongly here. " We must try to bear it ; we must trust to the Almighty." The poor litde tiling was called Sandy. She herself is a thin, pale, dark, very good, and re- spectable-looking woman. She had no wish to go away tl at day, as the old grandmother told us, but her husbnnd wished her to see her mother. She has one boy and two girls left, and the eldest and youngest are taken. They were playing at the burnside, but some way al ove the road, where there is a small bridge. As we were leaving I gave her some- thing, and she was quite overcome, and blessed me for it. We walked down again, and then drove back, and walked at once past the stables to the river- side, where, on both sides, every one was assem- bled, four in the boat (Donald Stewart and Jemmie Browi: amongst them), and all with sticks, and up and down they went, searching 43— -4 ^a a- 4 t ( i6i ) under every stone. They had been up to the boat pool and back, but nothing appeared. I remained watching till one o'clock, feeling unable to tear myself away from this terrible sight. The po r father was on our side, William Brown am(; ^st the others on the other side. I sat on the bcink with Janie Ely for some time (Beatrice having gone in earlier than I), Grant as well as Brown standing near me. When they came to that very deep pool, where twenty-two years ago a man was nearly drowned when they were leistering for salmon, they held a piece of red cloth on a pole over the water, which enabled them to see down to the bottom. But all in vain. The river, though lower, was still very high. At four took a short drive in the single pony carriage with Janie Ely, and back before five. Saw and talked to the schoolmaster, Mr. Lubban, a very nice little man, and he said that this poor child, Jemmie, the eldest, was such a good, clever boy. Every one shows so much feeling and kind- ness. It is quite beautiful to see the way in which every one turned out to help to find this poor child, from the first thing in the morning till the last at night — which, during these long -a -EP £r a ( 'S-' ) days, was very hard work — and all seemed to feel the calamity deeply. We heard by telegraph during dinner that the poor boy's body had been found on an island opposite Pa?inaiiic//, below Ballatcr, and that steps would be taken at once to recover it. SaUirday, June 15. After luncheon, at a quarter to three, drove with the two children up as far as the West Lodj^e, and then just descried the sad funeral procession slowly and sadly wending its way along the road ; so we drove back again, catching glimpses of it as we went along, and drove on a little way beyond the bridge, when, seeing the first people not far off, we turned and drove back, stopping close to the bridge, and here we waited to sec them pass. There were about tliirty people, I should say, including the poor father, Jemmie and Willie Brown, Francie's brother, Alick Leys, Farmer Patterson, etc. The poor father walked in front of one of the coffins ; both covered with white, ^and so small. It was a very sad sight. Dr. Taylor walked last with another gendeman. He had of course been up to the house and ^ -^ a .. &- ft ( '63 ) performed the service there, as Is always done throughout Scotland by all the Protestant deno- minations except the Episcopalian, and no service whatever near the grave.* We watched the sad procession as long as we could, and drove home again. * A change has taken place since this was written, and now (1883) a prayer is sometimes said as well at the grave. • — L-^ M • —^ cB- ( "64 ) Visit to Holykood and Edinburgh, August 13, 1872. Tuesday, August 13. At six I left sweet Osborne with Leopold and Beatrice, Marie Leiningen, and the Duchess of Roxburghe, Flora Macdonald,* Colonels Ponsonby and De Ros, Mr. Collins, and Fraulein Bauer. It was very warm. The yachts, which were out, had a very pretty effect. At Gosport, where we had to wait about ten minutes before landing, as we arrived too soon, I took leave of dear Marie Leiningen, who was to return to Germany next day. We had our own usual large travelling railway carriages, which are indeed charming. It was a splendid night. Sir W. Jenner joined us at Basingstoke, and at Banbury at half- past ten we stopped for refreshments, and lay down before twelve. • The Hon. Flor.! Macdonald, Maid of Honour, now Bed- chamber Womaiu r& # u a- -a ( -65 ) (r Wednesday, Auj^ust 14. I had a good deal of rest, and was up and dressed by eight, or a little past. But we had already passed Melrose, and there was so much fog, and the air so thick, that we could see very little. The last station (not in a village or town) was Fountaitt/iall, where old Mr, Lawson, the former Lord Provost of Edinburgh and famous seedsman, came up to the carriage, and some little girls presented Baby (as Beatrice is always called by us still) with a nosegay. We passed Porto- beUo, and a few minutes more brought us to the very station — the private one, outside Edinburgh — which for eleven years my beloved Albert anJ I had always arrived at, and where we left it together eleven years ago. There it was, all un- altered, and yet all so altered ! The General, Sir J. Douglas,* the Lord Pro- vost, and other official people received us there, and wo got into our carriage. The two children and the Duchess of Roxburghe went in the car- riage with me. • Commanding the forces in Scotland t& -C] lD • - -a ( '^6 ) It was a chill, {gloomy, heavy morninrr, but a great many people were out, and all most enthu- siastic, remiiiding me forcibly ard sadly of former days. We had an escort of the Scots Greys. We drove up to ..ne door of the old, gloomy, but historical Palace of Ilolyrood, where a guard of honour with a band of the 93rd Highlanders we ° stationed In the quadrangle of the court. We got out, walked up the usual stairs, and passed through two of the large gloomy rooms we used to occupy, and then went past some passages up another and very .steep staircase to the so-called " Argyll rooms" which have been arranged for me, with very pn tty light paper, chintz, and carpets (chosen by Louise). There is a suite, be- ginning with a dining-room (the least cheerful) at the farthest end, and then my sitting-room, a large and most cheerful room, the nicest of all, with very light paper ; ne.xt to this the bedroom, almost too large a room, and out of this the dressing-room. All open one out of the other, and have, except the dining-room, the same pretty carpets and chintzes 'red geraniums on a white ground). The [)age's room and a wardrobe and dresser's room are just opposite, across a small passage. 4 # iS- a ( 167 ) We three took breakfast directly in the dining- room. Our rooms are above the old rooms, and have the same look-out. It cleared up, and though still thick ".nd hazy, the sun shone out brightly, and at a quarter to t'V'ilve I went out into the garden, going through our old rooms, which looked sadly deserted : all open and some few things removed from them ; the gloomy bedroom with its faded tapestry and green silk bed, and the wretched little dark box- room in which I undressed at night, all full of many recollections. I went through the long picture gallery, down the small steps into the garden, where I met Beatrice, who walked with me. We walked about the garden, which is im- proved, but terribly overlooked, and quite exposed to public view on the side looking towards the street. We walked about the fine old chapel with its beautiful window and its tombstones, and then went in — Beatrice and I with Brown (who was much interested by all) — conducted by the keeper, an intelligent sensible man called Anderson, and visited the rooms of Queen Mary, beginning with the Hamilton apartments (which were Lord Darnley's rooms) and going up the old staircase w ^ w a- ( 168 ) to Queen Mary's chamber. In Lord Darnlej-'s rooms there are some fine old tapestry and ii ter- esting portraits of the Royal family, and of the Dukes and Duchesses of Hamilton. There are some other curious old pictures in this room. We saw the small secret staircase which led up in the turret to Queen Mary's bedroom, and we went up another dark old winding staircase at the top of which poor Rizzio was so horribly murdered — whose blood is still supposed to stain the floor. We entered the Presence Chamber, the ceiling of which, in panels, is from the time of Queen Mary, and contains her mother's and her own initials and arms as Dauphine of France and Queen of Scotland, with Darnley's initials. Here is the bed provided for Charles I. when he came to Holyrood to be crowned King of Scotland. Thence we were shown into poor Queen Mary's bedroom, where are the faded old bed she used, th.c baby-basket sent her by Queen Elizabeth when King James I. was born, and her work-box. All hung with old tapestry, and the two little turret rooms ; the one where she was supping when poor Rizzio was murdered, the other her dressing room. Bits of the old tapestry which covered the walls at -^ B- -ff -^ 1 [fi- a ( '69 ) the time are hung up in frames in the rooms. Beatrice is immensely interested by all she sees, and dclicrhted with everything. At half-past five drove off in the open landau and four with Beatrice, Leopold, and the Duchess of Roxburohc, the two equerries riding. We drove up through the Canongate, that curious old street with its very high-storied houses, past Kuoxs House and quaint old buildings, with the lowest, poorest people about, down Bank Street, and eastward along Prinee<^ Street, that splendid street with its beautiful shops, hotels, etc., on one side, and its fine monuments on the other, the gardens and institutions and other parts of the town rising above it and crowned by the pictu- resque Castle; then by Saint Andrew St ret t, across Saint Amhxxv S(]nar: (where Lord Mel- ville's statue is), along Geo'-r^c Street, a fine wide street, at the end of which is Clu .Me Sipiare, where my dear one's Monument is to be placed, and where I was to have stopped to look at the site. But the crowd, which was very great everywhere and would run with us (facilitated by the great steepness and slipperiness of the streets), as well as the great number of cabs and vehicles of all kinds ■ff k ■ff a- ■ft ( 170 ) which would drive aluiiji^ after us everywhere, made this impossible. We turned to the left with some difficulty — one or two carriaij^es coming in contact with ours — and went on by Hope Stnct, Queens Fcny Street, where we took a wrong turn, and went by Clarendon Crescent and Forres Street till we got to the Water of Leit/i, where we found we could not go on. We had to turri, with considerable difficulty, owing to the narrowness of the road, and go back again by Moray Place, Heriot Row, and thence down by Pitt Street on to Iiiverleith Roiu (o''tside the town), past the Botanic Garden, then along the Queens Ferry Road, Pilrig Street, and Leit'i Walk (which I remembered from our having taken the same drive in 1861), then along a broad street, under the Calton Hill, and Regent Terrace, past Holyrood, into the beautiful Queens Drive, right round Arthur s Scat with its {\\\q. grass, its rocks and small lochs. Unfortunately, however, no clear distant view could be obtained on account of the fog. Home to Holyrood -^lL half-past seven. It was a fatiguing drive. The crowds were very great, but the people behaved remarkably well ; only they kept cheering B- -•^' -a & -a ( 171 ) and shouting and running with us, for the postilions drove very slowly whenever there was the slightest descent, and there were many in the town, and one lone one coming down home from the Queens Drive. A good many flags were out, but there were hardly any decorations. The equerries kept extremely well close up to the carriage, which was no easy task. Thtivsday, Aus^nst 15. Again a very foggy morning. Breakfasted at half-past nine. Beatrice and Leopold started to go and see Roslin Chapel. Walked a littk in the garden at half-past ten, and tlien sat for half an hour under the only tree which afforded shade and was not overlooked by the street, a thorn, with very overhanging long branches, on a small grassy mound or "hillock." Here I read out of a volume of Poems by the " Ettrick Shepherd," full of beavitiful things (which Bro.vn had given me some years ago), and wrote till half past twelve. At half-past five I started as yesterday with IJentrice, Leopold, and the Duchess of Ro.\- burghe, the two equerries riding, and took a very -B' tg ^ fl- c: ( 172 ) long — rather too long — drive. It would have been quite beautiful and most enjoyable from tlie very fine scenery with rich vegetation, fine trees, and hills, and dales, with the Pentlands in the distance, had it not been for a dark, heavy, leaden fog and sky like November, but warmer, which obscured all the distance in the most pro- voking way, and at one time even came down in a rather heavy shower. We went out by the Queens Drive, going to the right as we left Ilolyrocd. Numbers of people surrounded the entrance, and, as there is a long ascent part of the way, some of them, especially boys, ran along with us. We proceeded by the Liberton Road, on past the villages of Straiton, Lasswade (very pictu- resque, and which I well remember from 1842), and Ihnnyrigg, to Dalhousie Castle, where we had visited the late Marquis and Marchioness from Dalkeith in 1842 (the Duchess of Bucclcuch drove me over), an old Scotch castle in red stone, where, however, we did not get out. It had been raining, bui we did not shut the carriage, and just as we had thought of doing so the rain ceased. From here we drove under a very fine viaduct along the South Esk, Da.:t Ncivbattl: (not into h 4 \ a- fi] ( ^72, ) the grounds) — where there is an arch which was built for George IV. to drive through, but he never went there — on through the small town of Dalkeith, where many people, as indeed in almost every other place, had collected, into the Park of Dalkeith. Here, as well as everywhere in the neighbourhood, there are beautiful trees, especially some very fine sycamores. We drove up to the house, and got out, as I wished the children to see the rooms where we had lived. The staircase and the gallery where I held the Drawing-room I remembered well, as also the dining-room. Our former rooms were shown us ; but though the bed and even the washing-basin still exist, the rooms which had been arranged for us are altered. We visited it last in September 1859. The population of Dalkeith and of all the villages about here are colliers and miners, and are very poor. We came home straight, coming into the same road as we started by, and going down the hill of the Queens Drive. We collected again a goodly and most good-humoured crowd, and saw the little boys and girls rolling down the steep hill» and people pouring in from the town to get a sight of us. ifr r -^-R] ( 174 ) f Friday, Au(^ust 16. A thoroughly wet day. At half-past eleven I walked out with Flora Macdonald (whose name attracted great attention in Edinburgh), right across the court to the stables, which are very good, and saw all belonging to them — harness- room, coach-house, etc. Then I looked into the guard-room next door, where the guard, who were called out and drawn up thinking I was coming by, did not know us. 1 went in behind them, and I found a sergeant (I think) of the 93rd in full dress, with four medals, and I asked him his years' service, which were twenty, and where he came from — " Perthshire." Two other men, who were cooking and had their coats off, were in the room where they also slept. The newspapers have reported an absurd conversation of mine with them, but none took place. We then walked back through the house into the garden, and finally came home through the chapel at half past twelve. It was raining hard, but nevertheless we started at half-past four in the open landau, Beatrice t& --ff -a J r -a ( '75 ) and tlie two ladies with me, the two equerries riding. We drove by way of Princes Street, which overlooks the Motnid with its gardens and fine buildings, and is always so animated and full of people on foot and in carriages ; crossed the Dean Bridge, which commands a most beautiful view, though then it was obscured by the pelting rain ; passed Stcivarfs Asylum, a fine new building, getting from the road a good view of another fine institution, Fctles College, built only within the last few years ; and so on to the ^A'gc of Barn ton Park, where we turned back to Gi-anton. By this time it had begun to blow most violently, in addi- tion to the rain, and the umbrellas dripped and the carriage became soaked. Our road lay close to the sea, past Granton Pier where we had landed in 1842 ; Trinity came next, a place with some good houses, and then Neivhavcn — where we Tsaw many fishwives who were very enthusiastic, but not in their smartest dress — and then Leitli, where there were numbers of people looking out for us in spite of the dreadful rain ; but indeed every- where the poor people came out and were most loyal. We took a wrong turn here, and had to come back again to go to the Albert Docks — new -ff rfi- cS- ■a :: ( ■?« ) and very splendid large docks, with the ships all decked out. We stopped a moment to speak to the Provost of Leit/i, who said the people were very grateful for my coming ; and I have since had repeated expressions of thanks, sajing the good people felt my coming out in the rain more than anything. We drove on along the shore, with a distant vie*v of the Island of Inchkcith, by Leitk Links, the London Road, the Cavalry Barracks, St. Margaret's Station and Queens Park, home. We got home by ten minutes past seven. We were all more or less wet, and had to change our things. The waterproofs seemed not to have done their work. After dinner, at twenty minutes past eleven, we left Holyrood ; a gardener pre- sented me with a bouquet, and said it was " the proudest day in his life." It did not rain, so wc had' the carriage open. The two children and the Duchess of Roxburghe were in our carriage, and we had an escort. Numbers of people were out. The whole way was splendidly lit up by red, bhie, and yellow lights from Salisbury Crags and Arthur s Seat, and the effect was most dazzling and beautiful. There were besides some torches near the station, which was the same we ^- ^ -a a- ■a ( ■77 ) arr!v('d at. The Provost hoped I " was leaving well," and I thanked him for the very kind recep- tion which I had met with, and for the beautiful illuminations. Saturday, Aiigiist 17. Did not sleep much or well — it was so very h.ot, and I was too much excited, and then we had to be roused up and to dress hurrie lly before seven, by which time we were at Ballater. There were many people out, and so there were at Balmoral, where we arrived at a quarter to eight. The heather beautiful, but not completely out yet. The air sweet and soft. Beloved Mama's birthday ! That dear, dear mother! so loving and tender, so full of kindness! How often I long for that love ! She frequently spent this day at Abcrgeldie, but we were not here then. i tfr -ff [fi- ( <78 ) a f Visit to Dunrobin, 1872. Friday, September b, 1872. A dull but fair morning. Breakfasted with the children before nine o'clock, and at half-past nine I left dear Bahnoral in the open landau and four with Beatrice and Leopold, Jane Churchill, Friiulein Bauer, and Lord Granville, and drove to Ballater, where Colonel Ponsonby, Sir W. Jenner, and Mr. Collins met us. Besides Brown, who superintends everything for me, Emilie Dittweiler, Annie Mac- donald, Jemmie Morgan, my second piper Willie Leys, Beatrice's, Leopold's, and Lady Churchill's attendants, three footmen and Goddard went with us. We passed into the station at Aberdeen, which was immensely crowded. An address and the keys were presented by Provost Leslie ; then Lord Kintore (who gave me a nosegay and some fruit) and young Lord Aberdeen were presented. The I :'■■ ^. ■ff r: a- •-&: ( I7Q ) tl;i}- was becoming fine, and it was excessively hot. From Aberdeen \vc went by a line totally new to me — past Inverurie, close past the hill of Benachie, and got a good sight of the Buck 0/ Cabrach and the surrounding hills, past Iluntly and the ruined Castle of Huntly to Keith, where the 7?^;/^ Volun- teers were drawn up and there were many people close to the station, but no one on the platform. Here we were delayed by one of the doors, from the bedroom into the little dressing-room, refusing to open. Annie had gone through shortly before we got to Keith, and when she wanted to go back, the door would not open, and nothing could malSi ) Uncle Leopold had received the freedom of the city when he was staying in the neighbourhood in 1819. The ruins of the Cathedral are said to be the finest in Scotland^ and the town is full of ancient recollections. No British sovereign has ever been so far north. The Provost's daughter presented me with a nosegay. We stopped here about ten minutes. It was broiling hot. The corn and oats looked ripe, and were cut in many places. After this we took our luncheon (cold), and as we were sitting at the small table we suddenly found ourselves i)assing slowly, without stopping, the station of Forres, near which is the wild " muir" which Shakespeare chose as the scene of Macbeth 's meeting with the witches. Nairn lies very prettily on the shore of the Moray Frith. We passed CMllodcn, and the moor where that bloody battle, the recol- lection of which I cannot bear, was fought. The heather beautiful everywhere, and now the scenery became very fine. At half-past three we were at Inverness^ the capital of the Highlands, the position of which is lovely. We stopped here for ten mi- nutes, but outside the station. There was an im- mense crowd, but all very well managed, and no -ff -a a- Eh ( 'Si ) squeeze or crush. There were numbers of seats iu galleries filled with ladies, among whom I re- coj^niscd Mrs. Cluny Macpherson. Cluny Mac- phcrson himself was in command of the Volunteers. On the platform to the left (the Volunteers and the galleries with seats were to the right) was the Provost, Dr. Mackenzie, a fine-looking old man in a kilt, with very white hair and a long white bear !, who presented an atldrcss. Lord Seafield, the Master of Lovat, Mr. Baillie of Docl.fonr, and his son Mr. Evan Baillie, were all there, and I said a word to each. The Provost's grand-daughter pre- sented a bouquet. There was an immense crowd at the back of the platform. As our train proceeded, the scenery was lovely. Near the ruins of the old Priory of Beanly the river of the same name flows into die Dcanly Frith * and the frith looks like an enormous lake with hills risin;j; above it which were reflected on the perfectly still water. The light and colour- ing were nither grey, but had a charming effect At twenty minutes to four we reached Dingivall, where there were Volunteers, as indeed there were everywhere, and where another address * Beauly, so called from the French " Beau lieu." ^ ■P c& r! ( 1S2 ) was presented and also flowers. Sir J. Matheson. Lord Licut(-'nant oi' die count}', was named to me, also the Vice Lieutenant; and some young ladies gave Beatrice nosegays. The position of Dtvi^- ivall, in a glen with hills rising above it, is ex- tremely pretty, and reminds me of a village in Svj'Uzcrland. The head of the Cromartic Frith appears here. After this and passing slowly Tain and ^SV. Djit/tns (called after the Cathedra! there) we thought, as we did not stop, and were not to do so, that wc would take our tea and coffee— which kept quite hot in the Norwegian kitchen — when suddenly, before we had finished, wc stopped at Bonar Bridge, and the Duke of Suther- land came up to the door. Me had been driving the engine (!) all the way from laveniesSy but only appeared now on account of this being the boun- dary of his territory, and the commencement of the ^/////t7'/,(r//rt' railroad. He expressed the honour it was to him that I was coming to Dunrobin. Lord Ronald L. Gower also came up to the carriage- door. There was a most excited station-master who would not leave the crowd of poor country- people in quiet, but told them to cheer and "cheer again," another "cheer," etc., without ceasing. -a :j- --ff a- tfi a- -& Here the Dornoch Frith, which first appears at Tain, was left beliind, and we entered the glen of the Siiin. The railway is at a very high level here, and you see the Shin winding below with heathery hills on either side and many fine rocks, wild, solitary, and picturesque. The Duchess of Sutherland's own property begins at the end of this glen. At six we were at Golspie station, where the Duchess of Sutherland received us, and where a detachment of the Sutherland Volunteers, who look very handsome in red jackets and Suther- land tartan kilts, was drawn up. I got into the Duchess's can'ia:j;e, a barouche widi four horses, the Duke riding, as also Lady Florence and their second son Lord Tarbat, and drove through the small town — one long street like Dnljtoivn — which is inhabited chieily by a fishing po[)ulation, and was extren:cly prettily decorated with heather and flowers, an . where there were many triumphal arches with Gaelic inscriptions (which I annex) and sume very pretty Engli.sli ones. " Ar Buidheachns do 'n Bhuadhaich." " Our gratitude to Victoria." ^ -ff a- VI i ^^i4 ) " Na h-iiile lath chi's nach fliair, slainte duihh 'is so'as "Health and ha])|)inc.s, far or near." (Literally — " Every day see we you, or sec wc not, health to you and happinLSS.") "Ceud mile failte do Chattaobh." "A hundred thousand welcomes to Sutherland." "Failte do 'n laith Buidhe." " Hail to the lucky day." " Better lo'ed you canna' be ; Will you no come back again ? " Everywhere the loj'alty and enthusiasm were very great. In about ten minutes we were at Dun- robin Castle. Coming suddenly upon it as one does, or rather driving down to it, it has a very fine imposing appearance with its very high roof and turrets, a mixture of an old Scotch castle and French chateau. Constance Westminster (the Marchioness of Westminster, the Duke's )oungest sister) was at the door, and Annie Sutherland's little girl in the hall, which is, as also the staircase, all of stone, with a sort of giiUery going round opening into a corridor. But I will describe this and the rooms to-morrow. tg- -ff ::i r- -t: ( 185 ) The Duchess took me to my rooms, which had been purposely arranged and handsomely furnished by the dear late Duke and Duchess for us both, and consist of a sitting-room next to the drawing-room, with a little turret communicating by a small pas- sage with the dressing roo 11, which opens into the bedroom and another ro( m w!i'ch is my maid's room, and was intended for dec..est Albert's dressing- room. I went to see Beatrice's room, which is close by, down three steps in the same passage. Frau- lein Bauer, and Morgan, her dresser, are near her. Brown lives just opposite in the room intended for Albert's valet. It was formerly the prison. Rested a little while, for I felt very tired. Dined at half-past eight alone in my sitting-room with Beatrice and Leopold, Brown waiting. Shortly afterwards Annie Sutherland came to see us for a little while, and later Jane Churchill. The children went early to bed. Dunrolnii, Saturday, September 7. I will now describe my rooms. They are very high ; the bedroom is the largest and very hand- some, with a beautiful bed with white and gold CtU- ■ff I a- t:3 ( i86 ) flowers and doves at each corner ^just like one at Ciici'cdai), with liylit blue furniture, and gold and white round the cornice of the ceiling ; pale blue and white panels ; blue satin spangled with yellow leaves (which look just like gold) on the walls ; and furniture and carpet to match. The dressing-rooin the same, but pale blue and pink silk fluted, on the walls. The sitting-room pale sea-green salin, with the cyphers of the late Duke and Duchess and their daughters on the ceiling. The furniture of light wood, and the sofas, chairs, tables, etc., remind me greatly of Clicvcdcn and Slafford House. The little boudoir has a small domed ceiling, spangled with golden stars, and the sanje furniture. There are some pretty pic- tures in the sitting-room and prints in the other rooins. At half-past nine we breakfasted in the sitting-room, and scon after saw the Duchess. At twenty minutes to eleven, I walked out with the Duchess and Beatrice to the steps, of which there are several flights, leading down to the garden, which is very pretty, and where there are fountains, and from here straight on to the sea, which is closer to the house, by half a mile I should say, than at Osborne. We walked along B- ff TT- ( T87 ) here, and then up and into the pretty byre for Ayrshire cows, and a Httle farther on to the ilairy, a very nice, cool round one. The Duchess told Brown to open the sitting-room, and we found it occupied by a policeman in bed, which we were not at all prepared for, and which caused much amusement. Florence, Jane Churchill, and Friiulein Bauer had joined us here, and shortly after the Duke did so too. We walked back through the kitchen garden, which is very well kept, and the Duke also showed us where he has a quantity of joung salmon which are artificially f.atchcd, and also a new apparatus for watering ^rass. We came home by the steps again. There is plenty of shade, but rather too many trees. The old part of the Castle is as old as the twelfth century. The late Duke enlarged it and added on the towers, and finished the new part in 1S49-50. In at a quarter to twelve. A dull muggy day. We lunched as we breakfasted. Afterwards read- ing, etc., and at twenty minutes past four drove out in the waggonette (Bourner* driving, as I * My conrliiiiaii and postilion, wlio has been tliirty-eight )cais ill my scrvic c— 1S83. ^ W fl- ■a ( 'SS ) had sent my own carriai:;e and ponies) with the Duchess, Constance Westminster, and Jane Churchill. We drove past the monument of the late Duke, which faces the Castle and is outside the gates, close to which is the Duke's private little station, used only by the family ; rather near, for it cannot be above five hundred yards from the house, but it is very well managed, so as to be but little seen. We drove by the four cross- roads, turninii to the left throujrh Dnnrobin Wood, which is really very pretty, with fine Scotch firs and other trees of all kinds, beech, oak, ash, and birch, above and b-jlow the drives, with quantities of lovely pink heather and ferns — some parts of the drive are rather steep — on to Bacchics, then by the Dtitck Cottage, on to Boiabhragliie Crive, and stopped at the four cross-roads to take our made tea and coffee, the warmth of which sur- prised Constance and Annie very much. We saw some deer. Drove on by the same drive {Bcn- abhragkie, the name of the hill on which the old Duke's very colossal statue stands). We stopped a little farther on to look at a fine view of the Castle and village, and to the right the hills which are seen farther inland, and the blue distant hills i& ^ cS- ■a ( 1S9 ) above the coast of Ross-shire ; then came out at Culmallie Lodge and passed through the village of Golspie with all its pretty decorations, and stopped at two cottages outside, when Annie called out a nice-looking girl who makes beautiful Shetland shawls in the one, and an oldish woman, a charac- ter, who worked me a book-marker and lives in the other (a double cottage under one roof). We drove through the Golspie Burn and dairy park, along the grass drive on the seashore below the woods, as far as Strathstcplien, and looking back had one of the finest views of the Castle, with the hills of Carnbustnore rising behind, and, turning up into the Caithness high road, came back to the Castle. Home at half-past six. A dull evening. Tried to sketch a bit of sea-view. At a quarter past eight we had dinner in the dining-room with the Duke and Annie (between whom I sat), Leo- pold, Constance Westminster, the Granvilles, Jane Churchill, and Ronald. I felt strange — such a dinner in a strange place for the first time with- out my dear one ! Brown waited on me, and did so at all meals, attending on me indoors and out of doors, most efficiendy and indefatigably. :: ^ # a- ■a ( '90 ) Then went for a short time into the drawing-room, which is next my sitting-room. Here we were joined by Mrs. Sumner (Miss Kingscote by birth, half-sister to Colonel Kingscote and niece to Lord Bloom field), a great friend of the Duchess's and who is staying in the house with her husband, who is a great friend of the Duke's ; Constance Pitt, a younger sister of Mary Pitt, and travelling with her uncle and Lady Granville ; Dr. Fayrer (a distinguished physician, who was for two years in Itidia)* Mr. Sumner, and Mr. Edwin Lascelles, brother to Mary. I remained for a few minutes, and then went to my room. Sunday, September 8. A fine bright morning. Breakfast as yesterday. Directly after it, at a quarter-past ten, walked with Beatrice along the Ladys Walk, as it is called, which commences near the Castle and goes for a mile and a half entirely amongst trees, very shady, and overlooking the sea, and with paths leading down to the sea, and seats commanding lovely • He travelled with Alfred, and has written a remarkable book on snakes. -B- # a- -a ( '91 ) views of the sea and distant coast. It was very warm, and the thickness of the adjoining woods made the air feel close. We walked back the same way, and got home at a quarter-past eleven. At twelve there was quite a short service performed by Dr. Gumming in the gallery which runs round the staircase, Dr. Gumming being opposite to us. It was over by a quarter to one. Annie then took me up to her room, which is a very pretty one ; long, but not high, and very light, with a very fine view above all the trees ; very simply furnished. Her dress- ing-room and bedroom equally nice and airy, like those they have at Stafford Hojcse. The Duke's dressing-room is very simply and plainly furnished ; he is wonderfully plain and simple in his tastes. The Duchess took me along the passage to where Florence lives, and to the nursery where we saw little Alix in her bed, and then by a staircase, which belongs to the very old part of the Gasde, to the rooms which were the dear late Duke's and Duchess's, though the last time she came here she lived in my rooms. Everywhere prints of ourselves and of people I know. After this came down again. Luncheon as yesterday. At twenty miuutes past four walked to the t&-. ■ff fl- -Qi ( '92 ) nearest seat in the Ladys U\xlk, and sketched the view, and about hair-[)ast fivi; drove out in the wao^gonette with Beatric'; and Lady Gran- ville. We drove through the U/ypat Woods, along the big burn drive, past the Pictish Tower up to Mr. Loch's Memorial, which has the following inscription on it by the late Duchess : — TO THE HONOURED MEMORY OF J.\MES LOCH, WHO LOVT:n IN THE SERENE EVENING OF HIS LIFE TO LOOK AROUND HIM HERE. May his chililrcn's children gnther here, and ihinl; of him whose life was spent in virluous labour for the land he loved and for the friends he served, who have raised these stones, a.D. 1858. Odht Junii 28° 1855. The headier is very rich all round here. We got out and went into it, and there is a very fine view looking up Dimrobin Glen and over the sea, and Birk Head, which is the extreme point of the land which runs into the sea You also get a very pretty glimpse of the Castle at the end of a path cut through the wood. We drove down again, and before we were out of the low^er wood, which is close down upon the sea-shore, we stopped to take f f ^ ■ff ,1 -& r ( 193 ) -^ our tea and coffee, but were half devoured by midges. We then came out upon the high road, and got into the sea-shore road, about half a mile beyond where we went yesterday, and drove along it and in by the Dairy — home at seven. Resting, writing. Dined in our sitting-room with our two children and Annie. Afterwards we went into the drawing-room where the ladies and gentlemen were, but I only stayed a short time. >I Monday, September 9. Raining a little early in the day. After break- fast drove in the waggonette with Beatrice and Jane Churchill to the Kennel, a remarkably nice and clean one to the left, and rather farther on than the stables, which are close to the railway station. Mr. Macdonald, the head keeper (who is brother to our poor Macdonald, Albert's late jiiger), whom I saw at Windsor two years ago, showed us over them. There are fine deer- hounds and pointers and setters. We visited the Mucdonalds in their nice house, and saw their daughters, three of whom are very good-looking and remind me of their cousins. He is not the \n 'B- -ff a- Hi ( 194 ) least like his brother. From here we went to the stables, which are small, where my ponies were, and where we also saw some of Annie's ponies and horses. Then walked home, meeting' the Duke and Ronald on the way. Two splendid Highland beasts, which are being fattened for the Christmas show, were brought up to the road for me to see. We passed the herd they belong to yes- terday, when driving. These beasts really are beau- tiful, and most picturesque, with their rough coats, shaggy heads, and immense spreading horns ; the tjrcatest number are dun- and mouse-coloured. At twenty-five minutes past twelve I started with the two children and Annie for the laying of the first stone of the Memorial to be raised by the clansmen and servants to the memory of my dear Duchess cf Sutherland, who was adored in Sutherland. ^Ve drove in the barouche and four. The rain had quite ceased. Everyone else had gone on before ; the Duke waited to help us in, and then ran on followed by MacAlister, his piper, valet, and confidential servant — a short stout man of sixty, I should say — an excellent man, and first- rate piper. We got out, and I went up on a platform, which was covered over and close to the ■b- ---B^ -& s- ( 195 ) -^ Stone, with the children, Annie, the Duke, Con- stance, and Jane Churchill. All the others, and many spectators, stood around. Mr. Joass, the minister there, offered up a short prayer, and after it presented (but did not read) the Address. I then answered what I had thought over, but spoke without reading : " It gives me great pleasure to tes'ify on this occasion my love and esteem for the dear Duchess, my valued friend, with whose children I am happy to be now staying, and I wish also to express my warm thanks for the loyal and hearty welcome 1 have met with in Snthcrlandy This made me very nervous, but it was said without hesitating. Then the usual ceremony of spreading the mortar and of striking the stone witli a mallet was gone through. The Duke gave me a drawing of the intended Memorial, which is to be an Eleanor cross, with a bust of the dear Duchess, and a medal of her which Ronald L. Gower had struck. After this we got into the carriage again, amid the cheers of the people, and drove back. Only Leopold walked, and Constance took his place in the carriage. We were in, before one. Almost directly afterwards cy^- -ff 1 & -a c: ( ig*-^ ) Beatrice and I went into the ante-room (where all the company who afterwards had luncheon were as- sembled) with Annie and the Duke, who presented some people to me ; amongst others a very old lady, Mrs. Houston byname, who is between eighty and ninety, and was a great friend of the dear Duchess and of the Duchess of Norfolk. She was quite overcome, and said, " I3 that my dear Queen," and, taking the Duke's hand, "and my darling Duke ?" Luncheon as usual. After it saw Lord GranvilL. At a quarter past four drove out in the waggonette, drawn by four of the Duke's horses, with Beatrice, Annie, and Constance. It was fine though not very bright weather, and windy. We drove to the top of Benabliraghic, or the Monument Hill, on which is the very colossal statue of the Duke's grandfather, the first Duke, who married the Countess of Sutherland, from whom this enormous property came. She died in 1S39, and I re- member her quite well as a very agreeable, clever old lady. We drove through part of the wood by the way we went the previous days, up the big burn drive and through Bacchies, looking up Dnnrobin Glen, which is very wild ; and the pink heathery hills, though not very high, and the T3- W c&- ft ( 197 ) moor, with distant hills, were verj' pretty. It is a long pull upwards on a grass drive, which makes it very hard work for the horses. Halfway up we stopped to take tea and coffee ; and before that, Brown (who has an extraordinary eye for it, when driving quite fast, which I have not) espied a piece of white heather, and jumped off to pick iJ:. No Highlander would pass by it without picking it, for it is considered to bring good luck. We got a very extensive view, though not quite clear, of endless hills between this and the west coast — all the Duke's property — where the Westminsters have two if not three forests of the Duke's. In fme weather seven counties are to be seen in the other direction, looking towards Ross-s/iire and the Moray Frith, but it was not clear enough for this. We saw distinctly Ben Riunes, a highish hill that rises in the distance above a long stretch of low land extending into the sea which belongs to the Duke of Richmond. We drove down the hill the same way, but afterwards took a different turn into the high-road, and home by Gohpie and the Lodge by seven. The dear pretty little girl came to see me. Beatrice brought t& # f ( 198 ) In Li'lah Grosvcnor, who had just arrived. Dined at a quarter-past eight in the dining-room, as on Saturday. The same people exactly, with the addition of Colonel Ponsonby, We had soni';, sheep's head, which I tasted for the first time on Sunday, and think really very good. Remained a little while in the drawing-room, and the Duke presented Mr. Stanley, the discoverer of Living- stone. He talked of his meeting with Livmgstone, who he thinks will require eighteen months to fmish the work on which he is bent. Sir Henry Rawlinson was also there. Then went to my room and Jane read. -Qi [fl Tncsday, September 10. Very fine. Our usual breakfast. At half- past ten got on my pony Maggie, Annie nnd Jane Churchill walking, and went to see the Golspie Burn Falls. We made two mistakes before we got right. We went out by the usual approach down to tlie mill, and past the mill under the great arch for the railway, ovf^r some very rough t,tones in the river, and then along a path in the wood full of hazel bushes and trees of all i-. — tp 4/F ^E]^ 't> cB- ( 199 ) -^ kinds, till the glen narrows very much, and we came to a wooden bridge, where I got off and walked to the head of the falls — over several foot-bridges, along a small path overhung by high rocks and full of rich vegetation. It is extremely pretty, reminding me of Corriamdzie, only on a much smaller scale. I mcinted my pony again, and rode home the same way about twelve. Very warm. We )iad a few dro^^s of rain, but it re- mained very fine all day. At ten minutes to four started with the two children and Annie Sutherland in my waggonette for Loch Brora, which is nine miles off. We drove past the stables out on the main Caithness road, through the small fishing village of Brora, where all the people were out, and where they had raised a triumphal arch and decorated the village with heather. We turned sharp to the left, and came into a wild moor country, stop[)ing for a moment at a place where one of the new coal mines which the Duke has found is beinir worked. One of these, near the sea, we had passed on Sunday. Then on, till we came very soon to the commencement of Loch Brora, which is seven miles in length, very narrow at first, and EP tfl-- •ff fl- -a ( 200 ) nwt of which the Brora flows into the sea. The i.i lighten as the loch widens, and to the left we drove along the Carrol Hill rises very finely with bold rocks up above the loch. An hour's drive took us to the Fishing Cottage, a small wooden house, built like a chalet, which is just-off the road, on the grass. Here we got out. The Duke drove his break, four horses in hand. They had never been together before, and it was not easy to drive them, for the road is full of turn- ings and rather narrow. Lord Granville sat on the box with him ; and Constance Westminster, Jane Churchill, the Duchess de San Arpino (who had just arrived, and is a great friend of the Duchess) and Lady Granville were inside, and two grooms sitting behind. The three young ladies, and Mr. Collins, and Colonel Ponsonby followed in the waggonette. They had started before us, but we caught them up at Brora. MacAlister had broiled some fish and got tea ready for us in a very small room upstairs in this little cottage, where there was a fire. I had my coffee. We ladies and Leopold all squeezed into this room. It was a very merry tea. The tea over, we all went down to sec a haul of fish. It was very success- i& -ff cS- ■a ( 20I ) ful ; quantities of brilliantly red char, trout, and two salmon, both of which had to be put back again. After this haul I went up and sat sketch- ing- on the balcony while there were several more hauls, which Macdonald the keeper superintended, and some walked, and others rowed. The view, looking towards the Carrol Hill, was lovely, and the colouring beautiful. The ladies and gentlemen rowed across, havin^f sent the carriages round, but I preferred terra finna, and drove round the loch to where the Black-Water runs into Loch Brora, and is literally black ; we drove over it. The Duchess told us that there was a fine drive into a wild country up that glen. We drove along the loch side, really a beautiful drive, under the Carrol Rock or Hill, through the Carrol Wood; the trees seem to grow remarkably well there. We saw some deer on the very top of the hills. As we drove along the loch, some high hills were seen rising up behind the low ones on the opposite side, one of which, called Ben Arlmin, is in the Duke's nearest deer-forest. We turned to the right, passing by moors which the Duke has cultivated wonderfully with the •B- 9 [Br- -a \ 202 ) steam plough, and came back througli Uppai stopping .>ear Mr. Locli's place, Uppat, where, in early days, the late Duke and Duchess used to live when they were Lord and Lady Gower. Mr. Loch's father was the commissioner for die late Duke, and the present Mr. Loch (whom I remember in a similar capacity at JVors/cy, Lord I'LlIesmere's, in 185 i) is commissioner to the present Duke. Mrs. Loch, and her daughter, and little granddaughter, wIk) gave me a nosegay, were there. And the I?o/ schoolchildren were drawn up outside the school. We got home through the woods at twenty minutes past seven. Dinner was at half-past eight in the dining-room, the same as before, only with the addition of the Duchess of San Arpinoand Sir Henry Rawlinson, and the omission of Lord Ronald L. Gower and Colonel Ponsonbj'. I must now describe the dining-room. It is not a very large room, but a pretty one ; with wood panelling and a portrait of tlie first Duc1k;ss's father, the Earl of Sutherland, at one end, and a beautiful chalk drawing, by Landseer, of two deer in the snow, one having been killed by the other. Stags' heads arc round the room, and behind one (a very fine one) gaspipes have been introduced. ^- w -a a- -a ( 203 ) which light up each point. In each panel along the sides of the room are paintings after Thor- waldsen's statues. By daylight the room is dark We had some haggis at dinner to-day, and some siieep's head yesterday. MacAlister had walked round the table each of the previous days playing, but to-day it was my piper,* Willie Leys ; and afterwards they played together in the next room. Went again for a little while into the drawing- room, which is handsome, and about the size of the dining-room, and cheerfully arranged with tables and ornaments. The paper on the walls is dark red. There is a little turret at one end of it, and windows on two sides, and it opens into the ante room, which again opens into the library. There is a full-length picture of me in the ante- room. The dining-room is a detached room on the other side ; and the billiard-room is close opposite to my sitting-room. Jane Churchill again read to me in my room. IVcdjtesday, September ir. A dull morning. The military manoeuvres in tJie South seem to be going on very satisfactorily, • He left my service in 1876. ^ -SI cB- -a ^ ( 204 ) and every one praises dear Arthur, his indefatigable zeal and pains. It is very gratifying. At a quarter to eleven walked with Jane Churchill and the Duke down to the small museum in the garden, which is very nicely arranged, and where there is a very interesting collection of Celtic ornaments, some of which are quite perfect, and have been very well imitated, and of all sorts of odd and curious Celtic remains, weapons, utensils, etc., and a very fine large collection of all the birds found at or near Dnnrobin. Mr, Joass, the mini?ter, was there to explain everything to us. We took a short turn, and came home at half- past eleven, as it rained. We met little Alix on her wee pony. We also saw the Duchess's Nor- wegian cariole and pony. (Busy choosing presents to give away; and after our usual luncheon there was some more arranging about these presents.) Painting the view of the sea from my window. At ten minutes to four started in the waggonette, with the two children and Annie. The Duke, the other ladies, Ronald L. Gower, Colonel Ponsonby, and Sir Henry Rawlinson had gone on in the drag. We drove out by the West Lodge, through Golspie, on the road (on part ca -ff t a- ( 205 ) of v;hich we had come before) under the Silver Hill, a very pretty wooded road, and turned to the right across the Mound, an embankment con- structed by the first Duke to make a communica- tion across an arm of the sea, called Lock Fleet, which comes in there. This Mound "spans Strathfieety Near it is a railway station. We then drove through a very pretty glen, with fine hills, to Dornoch, along the shore of Dornoch Frith, past Cambusmore (though not near the house, which lies up in the wood at the foot of the fine hill of that name), on through woods for some way, till we suddenly emerged on lower ground and saw the steeple of Dornoch Church, formerly a cathedral. We turned sharp to the left, and went into Dornoch ; quite a small place, but the capital of Sutierland, now much out of the world, as the railway does not go near it. It is a small fishing town, smaller than Golspie. There was an arch with a Gaelic inscription, and the houses were decorated with flowers, heather, and green boughs, and many people out. We drove to the door of the so-called cathedral ; though I had not intended doing it, I got out there, and walked up the ifl- # a- -a ( 206 ) large kirk. The late Duke's father and mother are buried there, as were sixteen Earls of Suther- land ; and there is a statue of the old Duke in marble. The cathedral was built by Gilbert de Moravia, Bishop from 1223 to 1260, at his own expense. St. Gilbert was related to the Sutherlands, who had then recently acquired that vast territory, " the Southern land of Cailliness" which now gives the title to their descendant, the present and third Duke. In a very ancient stone sarcophagus are the bones of Richard Murray, brother to the Bishop. We only remained a few minutes "in the church, and then went out by another door, where we got into the carriage. There is a curious old tower opposite the church, which was part of the Bishop's Palace. The people were very enthusiastic, and an old fish- wife, with her creel on her back, bare legs and feet, and very short petticoat (we met many such about Dunrobhi), began waving a handkerchief, and almost dancing, near the end of the place as we drove away. Brown motioned to her to come on, and threw her something, which the poor old thing ran to pick up. We stopped when we had regained the wood to take our tea and coffee, and B- - j: ^ a- -a ( 207 ) were joined by the Duke's drag just as we had fiuished. We changed our road, going by Embo and Skclbo, the model farm of the late Duke, and drove up to Canibtisvwrc, the pretty little cottage of Mr. and Mrs. Bateson. There is a small garden in front. The two children got out, and so did all the others, but I begged to remain in the carriage, as I was tired. However, I after- wards got out ; and certainly the little cottage is most charmingly fitted up with deer's heads, pretty prints, and pretty things of all kinds. They asked me to write my name in a book, which I did, sitting in the carriage. From here we drove back again the same way ; and the evening was very fine, and the sky beautiful, red and every possible bright colour. As we drove along, before reaching Caiiibusmore we saw the high land of Cailhness, a good way beyond Brora. Back by seven. Dined with the two children in my own room, and then went for a short while into the drawing-room ; then wrote, and at half-past eleven left Dunrobin, with the two children and Annie, in the Duke's carriage, the Duke (in the kilt) helping us in, ^- -ff c& -a ( 208 ) and then walking, with Mac/Vlister after him, up the approach, straight to the private station, which is about five hundred yards from the liouse. There were many people out, and the whole was brilliantly illuminated by Egyptian and red and blue lights. At the station all the ladies and gentlemen were assembled, and I wished them all good-bye, and then got into the train, having kissed Annie, and Constance, and the two girls, and shaken hands with the Duke, who, as well as the Duchess, had been most kind. It was half- past twelve before I lay down. Beatrice did so sooner. Thursday, September 12. I had not slept much, but the journey was very quiet. At eiglit we were at Ballatcr. A splendid morning. We drove off at once, Beatrice, Leopold, and I in one carriage, and reached dear Balmoral safely at a quarter to nine a.m. Felt as though all had been a dream, and that it was hardly possible we should have been only last nirht at Dunrobin, and dined there. _^ a- ( 209 ) Dk. Norman Macleod. -a \_hTarch, 1873. — I am anxious to put on record all my recollections of my dear and valued friend Dr. Norman Macleod, who has been taken from us, and whose loss is more deeply felt every day. I have therefore made the following extracts from my journal since the year 1861, when my heavy misfortune brought me into very close con- tact with him.] Balmoral, Sunday, May 11, 1862. Hurried to be ready for the service which Dr. Macleod w!is kindly going to perform. And a little before ten I went down with Lenchen and Affie (Alice being still in bed unwell) to the dining- room, in which I had not yet been. The ladies and gentlemen were seated behind me, the ser- vants, including Grant and some of the other 4- -ff 6- fi (210) Highlanders, opposite. And never was service more beautifully, touchingly, simply, and tenderly performed. There was the opening prayer, then the reading from Scripture, which was most beautifully selected as follows : the twenty-third chapter of Job, the forty-second Psalm, the four- teenth chapter of St. John, some of the first verses, and then from the twenty-third verse to the end, and the seventh chapter of Revelations to the end. All so applicable. After this came another prayer, and then the sermon, entirely extempore, taken from the twelfth chapter of the Epistle to the Hebrews to the thirteenth verse, also alluding to the tenth chapter, and occasionally turning to the Corinthians. The sermon was admirable, all upon affliction, God's love, our Saviour's sufferings, which God would not spare Him, the blessedness of suffering in bringing us nearer to our eternal home, where we should all be together, and where our dear ones were gone on before us. He con- cluded with another prayer, in which he prayed most touchingly for me. The children and I were much affected on coming upstairs. !& -EP fr- -& 21 I Jl font-fay, A fay 12. On coming home in the afternoon, Dr. Macleod came to see me, and was so clever, agreeable, kind and good. We talked of dear Albert's illness, his readiness to go hence at all times, with which Dr. Macleod was much struck, and said what a beauti- ful state of mind he must always have been in — how unselfish — how ready to do whatever was necessary ; and I exemplified this by describing his cheerful- ness in giving up all he liked and enjoyed, and being just as cheerful when he changed to other circumstances, looking at the bright and interest- ing side of them ; like, for instance, going from here to JVtfu/sor and from Jl'im/sor to London, leaving his own dear home, etc., and yet being always cheerful, which was the reverse with me. He spoke of the blessing of living oii with those who were gone on before. An oid woman, he said, whom he knew, had lost her husband and several of her children, and had had many sor- rows, and he asked her how she had been able to bear them, and she answered : " Ah ! when he went awa' it made a great hole, and all the others 4]- ti ^^1 a- a ( 212 ) went through it." * And so it is, most touchln^ly and truly expressed, and so it will ever be with me, Bahnoral, Sunday, Aiigusi 24, 1S62. At ten service was performed by Dr. Macleod downstairs, again very beautifully. His selections were very good : the hundred and third Psalm, part of the eleventh chapter of Isaiah, and then before his sermon, the fourth chapter of Philip- pians, sixth verse, which was the text : " Be care- ful for nothing ; but in every thing by prayer and supplication with thanksgiving let your requests be made known unto God," and part of the eleventh chapter of St. Luke, fifth verse : " Which of ^ou shall have a friend, and shall go unto him 'iL midnight, and shall say unto him. Friend, lend me three loaves ? " As usual, it made a d :p impression. After dinner, in the evening, I went over to • I since hear that this poor woman was not personally known to Dr. Macleod, but that lier remark was related to him by Dr. Black, his predecessor in the Barony Parish, Glasgow. Her words were : " When /le was ta'en, it made sic' a hole in my heart that a' other sorrows gang lichtly through." r & ^ ith & fi ( 213 ) Mrs. Bruce's room, and there Dr. Maclecd joined us, and was so kind, so comforting, and so cheering. He expressed ^reat admiration of my dearest Albert's statue (tiie cast of which was standmg in the vestibule below). His eyes were full of tears, and he said his loss was felt more and more. I showed him a drawing of the mausoleum, and he said, " Oh ! /le is not tlicre," w hich is so true ; and ag.iin, when a'l miring the photograph of the r(x!i[iing statue by Alarochetti, he added " But I think //£' is more like the statue bel>>w,'' which is a beautiful and a true idea. He 1 so truly at the reality of the ne.\t life. Sunday, May 24, 1863. My poor birthday ! At a quarter past ten service was performed by Dr. Macleod. All the children but Baby there. He read tlu; nirietieth and hundred and third Psalms ; ['art of the twenty-fourth chapter of St. Matthew, ninth verse;: "All hail." His sermon very fine, but \v.'. re;ul it, not having had time to prepare one by thinking the subject over, or even by the hel[) of mere notes. I .saw him in the evenini;, and he was most kind and sympathising. f&- -ff S fl- -a ( 214 ) Su7iday, Ociobcr (^, 1864. At four, went to kirk with Lcnchen and Aiig^usta Stanley. Dr. Maclcod performed the service admirably, and q'ave us a very striking ser- mon, all CNtemi'ore, and appealing very strongl\- to the people's feelings. Saw good Dr. Macleod afier'A'ards, and was much upset in talking to him of my sorrows, anxieties, and overwhelming cares ; and he was so kind and sympathising, so encouraging and full of that faiih and hope which alone can comfort and sustain the broken heart. In his sermon he spoke of tiiere being peace v.'itli- out happiness, and happiness lijilhotU peace, which is so true. Balmoral, Siindny, June 11, 1S65. At twelve, went (a great effort) to the kirk with the girls and the Duchess of A thole. I had only been once at the end of our stay last year in Oi.tober, in the afternoon, and it made me very ner- D- W ■^ c& -a ( 215 ) vous. Still, as no one expected ifie to go, it was better so. Dr. Macleod performed the service most impressively. His sermon was from i Thessa- lonians iv. lo. No one reads the Bible better than he does, and his prayers were most beautiful. In the one for me, which he always words so expres- sively and touchinj^dy, he prayed for Alix and her dear babe very beautifully. The singing and the whole service brought tears to my eyes. I felt so alone ! All reminded me of former blessed- ness. Balmoral, Saturday, October 14, 1865. After dinner Dr. Macleod gave us a long account of that dreadful Dr Pritchard,* and his interviews with him. Never in his life had he seen anyiiiing so drc.-ulhil as tliis man's character and his woiulerrul untruthfulness. Dr. Macleod afterwards came upstairs, and read to Lenchcn and me cut of Burns most beautifully. * He liaci poisoned his wife and his wife's motiier, and Dr. Macleod attended him in prison. tB- -.-Efi a- ( ^'S ) -a r Sunday, Octcber 15, I065. At twelve we went to the kirk, where dear Dr. Macleod performed the service more beauti- fully than I ever heard it. The sermon was touching, and most striking and useful. It touched and struck all. The text was from Genesis iii. 13: "And the Lord God said unto the voman, What is this that thou hast done ? '' Ai.d then he showed how we all had a secret life which no one knew but God, and showed the frightful danger of living a life of deception till you deceived yourself, and no longer knew wrong from right. I wish I could repeat all he said, but it was admirable. Then in his beautiful prayers he brought in a most touching allusion to Lord Palmerston,* and prayed for him. • He was dying, and expired on October 18. I fg^- ^ a- -* •- -a ( 2'7 ) Balmoral, Sunday, J tine 17, 1866. We went at twelve to the kirk, and Dr. Mac- Icod gave us a beautiful sermon from St. Mark ix. 38, etc. It was very fine, so large-minded and charitable, much against party spirit and want of charity, and showed how thoroughly charity, in its highest form, existed in our Saviour. . . . The Duchess of Athole and Dr. Macleod dined with me. He was so amiable, and full of sympathy ; he also suffers much from constant work and worry, and must go abroad for relaxa- tion. Told liim how much I required it, and that I came here for it, and had had a hard fight for it. lie said he quite felt this, and entreated me — "as you work for us " — always to insist upon coming here. I said my dearest Albert had injured him- self by never giving himself enough rest ; and we spoke of the absolute necessity of complete relaxation occasionally, and of the comfort of it. ^ # a- *~3] ( 218 ) Balmoral, Sunday, September 16, 1866. The church was very full and the atmosphere very close. Dr. Macleod preached admirably, especially the latter part of the sermon, when he preached extempore, and spoke of our responsi- bilities which made us work out our salvation. God wished us all to be saved, but we must work that out ourselves. And we might by our own fault not be saved. The first part was read, he having told me tl^e night before that he felt nervous, and must read it. Balmoral, Thiu'sday, September 20, 1S67. Good Dr. Macleod (who arrived yesterday, for two nights) came to talk to me for some little time while I was sitting out. He spoke most kindly, and said enough to show how shocked he was at my many worries, but said also that he was convinced of the great loyalty of the nation, and that I should take courage. i& -ff s- ( 219 ) On the next day, the 21st, he came to take leave of me, as he was going to India, sent by the General Assembly to look after the missions. He is only going for six months ; still, his life is so valuable that it is a great risk. He was much affected in taking leave of me, and said, " If I should not return, I pray God to carry your Majesty through all your trials." Balmoral, Saturday, October 10, 1868. Mr. Van de Weyer and good Dr. Macleod, who is looking ill, and rather broken, and with a long beard, dined with us.* Sunday, October 1 1 . All to kirk at twelve. Christian and Franz f sat in the Abcrgchiie pew. Dr. Macleod per- formed the service, and I never heard a fin r • He had only lately returned from India, t The Prince and Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstcin and the Prince and Princess of Teck were on a visit tfr # a- -a ( 220 ) sermon, or more touching prayer for me. The text, St. Luke ix. 33; "Peter said unto Jesus, Master, it is good for us to be here . . . not knowing what he said." Saw Dr. IMacleod, who talked, as also last night, of India, and of the disturbance in the Church. Balmoral, Stinday, June 6, i S69. To kirk with Louise, Leopold, Baby (Beatrice), and Christian. Dr. Macleod (who arrived last night) performed the service, and admirabK , speaking so much to the heart. The prayers were beautiful, and so was the sermon. It was so full of truth and simple good advice, telling us to act according to the spirit of what is told us, and according to what we felt was right. The text from I Peter iv. 21. Afterwards saw dear Dr. Macleod, whom I find a good deal altered and aged. He is Moderator of the General Assembly for this year, and spoke with much pleasure of the unanimity prevailing, and of the good feeling shown towards him ; and regretted much this Irish Church Bill. ■a ^ c& -a ( 221 ) Balmoral, Sujiday, October 3, 1869. At twelve, went with our children to the kirk, Dr. Macleod preached a fine sermon, and gave us two beautiful prayers as usual. The text was from Matthew xxvi. 30. I saw Dr. Macleod before dinner. He is greatly alarmed for the Established Church of Scotland, as he fears that an attempt will be made to pull that down also ; though, thank God, there is no difference of form or doctrine there, and were this to happen, the Free Church and United Pres- byterians, with the present Established Church, would become one very strong Protestant body. I also asked him about Lord Lome, and he said he had a very high opinion of him ; that he had long known him, and had prepared him for con- firmation, that he thought very highly of him, and had a great respect for him, and that he had fine, noble, elevated feelings. B- # ■ft ( 222 ) S Jin day, October 2, 1870. A very fine morning after a frost. The sun intensely hot. Dear Leopold breakfasted with us out of doors. Sat out for a short while. To the kirk at twelve. It was not so stifling. Dr. Mac- leod gave us such a splendid sermon on the war, and without mentioning France, he said enoiigli to make every one understand what was meant (when he pointed out how God would punish wickedness, and vanity, and sensuality ; and the chapters he read from Isaiah xxviii., and from Ezeklel, Amos, and one of the Psalms, were really quite wonderful for the way in which they seemed to describe Frajice). It was all admirable and heart-stirring. Then the prayers were beau- tiful in which he spoke of the sick, the dying, the wounded, the battlefield, and my sons-in-law and daughters. We all came back deeply impressed. ^ ■^ [fl- €l ( 223 ) Monday, October 3. Dr. Maclcnd came to wish me good-bye. He yesterday again told me what a very high opinion he had of Lord Lome, how good, excellent, and superior he thought him in every way, and the whole family so good. Balmoral, yune—, 187 1. Dear Dr. Macleod was unable to come during my present stay here, having been unwell in the winter. He has gone abroad to Ems, Balmoral, Sunday, November 5, 1871. At a little before twelve, went to kirk with Baby and Janie Ely, for the first time after a very severe illness — a great pleasure to me who am so fond of going to the dear little church here. Brown helped me up and down the steep stair- case, but I found no great difficulty. Dr. Mac- B- F cfi -a 224 ) Icod (who arrived yesterday evening at the Castle) performed the service, which he made purposely rather short for me. He gave us a beautiful sermon, the text from St. Matthew vi. 9 : " Our Father, who art in heaven ; " and he preached upon the great importance, as well as comfort, of our looking on God as a Fadier, and not as a judge or " magistrate," to use a homely phrase. He also gave an admirable explanation of the Sacrament, which he announced was to be given next Sunday, explaining that it was not a miracle, which people often consider it to be. Back by a quarter-past one, much edified. He camri to see me before dinner. Monday, November (i, 1S71. Had a long and satisfactory talk with Dr. Mac- leod after luncheon to-day again. t- W a- ( 225 ) -93 Balmoral, Simday, May 26, 1872. To kirk at twelve, with Baby and the ladies, etc. Dr. Macleod preached a very fine ser- mon, full of love and warm feeling-, upon futuie life and hope. The text was from St. Matthew V, 9, " Thy kingdom come." But I was grieved to see him looking ill. After luncheon saw good Dr. Macleod, who was very depressed and looking very ill, and will- ingly sat down at my request. He said he was quite broken down from hard work, and would have to give up his house in Glasgow (where he has not a moment's rest), and his Indian mission work, etc. He feels all this much, but it is unavoid- able. He did too much. He has never recovered from the effects ii his visit to India, He is, however, going to America for some months, and has ref.ised everything in the way of preaciiing and lectures. He talked much of a future life, and his certainty of there being a continuation there of God's educa- tional purposes, which had commenced in this world, and would work on towards the final triumph of good over evil, and the extinction of sin. ■fe — ■ff cB- ( 226 ) -^ .|^- Dahnoral, Monday, May 27, T872. Saw and wished good Dr. Macleod good-bye, with real regret and anxiety. Towards the end of dinner yesterday, he cheered up, having hardly talked at all durinsr the course of it. Balmoral, Sunday, June 16, 1872. We had coine home at five minutes past eight ; I had wished Brown good-night, and was just going to my dressing-room, when he asked to come in again and say a few words to me. He came in, and said, very kindly, that he had seen Colonel Ponsonby, and that there was rather bad news of Dr. Macleod, who was very 111, in fact diat they were afraid he was dead ! Oh ! what a blow ! I low dreadful to lose that dear, kind, loving, large-hearted friend ! My tears (lowed fast, but I checked them as much as I could, and thanked good Brown for the very kind way he broke this painful and most unexpected news to t -^ ■A i tu --a ( 227 ) me. I sent for and told Leopold, who was quite stuni>ed by it, and all my maids. Every one was most deeply grieved — the Duchess of A thole, Janie Ely, Miss MacGregor, Colonel Ponsonby, and Dr. Taylor, who was so overcome as hardly for some time to be able to speak. The loss, he and we all felt, was quite irreparable. Dr. Taylor knew (which I did not) that he had been very ill for a week, and that he might die at any moment, and that the long and most admirable speech which he made in the Assembly had been far too much for him. That was on the 30th. Still we all h<)j>'?d that rest would have restored him. How thankkil I felt that I had seen him so lately ! Wlien lIic Duchess came upstairs, we cou!d speak of lilde else. After she left, and I was alone, I cried very bitterly, for this is a terrible loss to me. Monday, yune 17, When I awoke the sad truth flashed upon me, which is doubly painful, as one is unaware of the reality on first waking. After breakfast, when I thought of my dear friend Dr. Maclcod, and all he had been to me — tl Q t -ff a- ( 228 ) how in 1862-63-64 he had cheered, and com- forted, and encouraged me — how he had ever sympathised with me, and how much I always looked forward to the few occasions I had of seeing him when we went to Balmoral, and that this too, Hke so many other comforts and helps, was for ever gone — I burst out crying. Yesterday evening we heard by telegraph from Mr. Donald Macleod (for the first news came from the Glasc^ow telegraph clerk to Warren *) that his dear brother had died at twelve that morninsf. I telegraphed to all my children, and could think of nothing else. I try to dwell on all he said, for there was no one to whom in doubts and anxieties on religion I looked up with more trust and confidence, and no one ever reassured and comforted me more about my children. I re- member that he expressed deep satisfaction at hearing such good accounts of them. . . . And then he seemed so full of trust and gratitude to God. He wrote a beautiful letter to Janie Ely on his birthday (June 3), in answer to my in- quiries after him, of which I annex the ccpy. His words seemed almost prophetic! * My ( wii telegraph clerk. '&■ ^ ■-^Ir -Eb com- ever id of that lelps, ( 229 ) Jjine 3. 1872. Dear Lady Kly, — Whether It is that my head is empty or my heart full, or that both conditions are realised in my experience, the fact, however, is that I cannot express myself as I feci in replying to your Ladysiiip's kind — far too kind — note, which I received when in the whirl- wind or miasma of Assembly business. Thanks deep and true to you, and to my Sovereign Lady, for tliinking of me. I spoke for nearly two hours in the Assembly, which did me no good, nor, I fear, to any other. I was also to preach yesterday. As I have nice summer quarters, I much hope to recruit, so as to cast off this dull, hopeless sort of feeling. I ought to be a happy, thankful man to-day. I am to-day sixty, and round my table will meet my mother, my wife, and all my nine children, six brothers, sisters, and two aunts — one eighty-nine, the other seventy-six ; and all these arc a source of joy and thanksgiving! Why such mercies to mc, and such sufferings as I often see sent to the rest on earth } God alone knows ! 1 don't see Jwzv He always acts as a wise, loving, and impartial Father tii all His children. What we know not now, we shall know hereafter. Let us trust when we cannot trace. God bless the Queen for all her unwearied goodness I I admire her as a woman, love her as a friend, and reverence her a.s a Oucen ; and you know that what I say I feel. Her courage, patience, and endurance are marvellous to me. (Signed) N. Maci.::od. -^ ■ 4}-- -ff a- — "-fl] ( 230 ) March 1873. Dear Dr. Macleod likewise came to Balmoral, and preached there, on the following occasions : October 11, 1863, May 24, 1864 (my birthday, after his visit to the Holy Laiiit),o\\ INIay 27, 1867, and on May 29, 1869. When I last saw him I was greatly distressed at his depression and sadness, and instead of my looking to him to cheer and enconrage tnc, I tried to cheer him. He said he had been ordered to give up all work, and to give up his house at Glasi^oic, merely continuing to preach at the I-Saroiiy CJiiirch ; and that then they gave him hopes of a recovery, but it was not at all certain. He must give up the Indian Mission, which was a great sorrow to him ; and he meant to take the opportuni')' of resigning it in person, to say what he felt so strongly, though others might not be pleased. He meant to go to Avicrica in August, "tnerely to recruit his health and strength ; and he had refused every invitation for dinners, or to lecture or preach. He liad not much confidence, he said, in his recovery, but he might be wrong. All was in God's hands. " It is the nature of cfr ^ -a 73- '/ioral, ;ions : [litlay, 1867. of ■^ -a ( 231 ) Highlanders to despond when they are ill," he added. He hoped God .vould allow him to live a few years longer, for his children, and to be able to go on with " Good Words." He dwelt then, as always, on the love and goodness of God, and on his conviction that God would give us, in another life, the means to perfect ourselves and to improve gradually. No one ever felt so convinced, and so anxious as he to convince others, that God was a loving Father, who wished all to come to Him, and to preach of a living personal Saviour, One who loved us as a brother and a friend, to whom all could and should come widi trust and confidence. No one ever raised and strengthened one's faith more than Dr. Mac- leod. His own faith was so strong, his heart so large, that all — high and low, weak and strong, the erring and the good — could alike find sym- [lathy, help, and consolation from him. I low I loved to talk to him, to ask his advice, to speak to him of my sorrows, my anxieties I But, alas ! how impossible I feel it to be to give any adequate idea of the character of this good and distinguished man I So much depended on his personal charm of manner, so warm, genial. & ■ff c& ft ( 232 ) and hearty, overflowing with kindness and the love of human nature ; and so much depended on himself, on knowing and living with him, that no one who did not do so can truly portray him. And, indeed, how can any one, alas, who has not known or seen a person, ever imagine from de- scription what he is really like ? He had the greatest admiration for the beauties of nature, and was most enthusiastic about the beautiful wild scenery of his dear country, which he loved intensely and passionately. When I said to him, on his last visit, that I was going to take some mineral waters when I went south, he pointed to the lovely view from the windows, looking up the glen of the Dee, and said : " The fine air in these hills, and the quiet here, will do yc^ur Majesty much more good than all the waters." His wife, he said, had urged him to come, though he felt so ill. " It always does you good to go to J3ah]ioral" she told him. He admired and loved the national music of his country, and wrote the following description of it, most kindly, as a preface to a book of Pipe Music published by my head piper, William Ross : — tfr -ff the xl on |at no him. |s not 11 de- -a ( 233 ) THE BAGPIPE AND ITS MUSIC. By the Rev. Dr. Norman Macleod. The music of the HigJtlands is the pibroch of the ^jrcat war-pipe, with its fluttering pennons, fingered by a genuine Celt, in full Highland dress, as he slowly paces a baronial hall, or amidst the wild scenery of his native mountains. The bagpipe is the instrument best adapted for summoning the clans from the far-off glens to rally round the standard of their chiefs, or for leading a High- land regiment to the attack amidst the roar of battle. 'J he pibroch i,-- also constructed to express a welcome to the chief on his return to his clan, and to wail out a lament for him as he is borne by his people to the old burial-place in th.e glen or in the sainted Isle of Graves. To those who understand it.s carefully composed music there is a pathos and depth of feeling suggested by it which a Miglilander alone can fully sympathise with ; associated by him as it always is with the most touching memories of his home and country; recalling the faces and forms of the departed ; spreading forth before his inward eye panoramas of mountain, loch, and glen, and reviving impressions of his early and happiest years. And thus, if it excites the stranger to laughter, it excites the Highlander to tears, as no other music can do, i:i spite of the most refined culture of his after life. It i'i thus, too, that what appears to be only a tedious and unmeaning monotony in the music of the genuine pibroch, is not so to one under the magic influence of -ff ^- 4 [fl- ■-- -Qi ( 234 ) IIi;;1iland associations. There is, indeed, in every pibrocli a certain inouotdn)' of sorrow. It pervades even the " welcome," as if the yoinv^ chief who arrives recalls the memory of the old chief who has departed. In the " lament " we naturally e.xpect this sadness; but even in the "summons to battle," with all its fire and i:ncrgy, it cannot conceal what i seems already to anticipate, sorrow for the slain. In the very reduplication of its hurried notes, and in the repetition of it.-- one idea, there are expressions of vehement [tassion and of grief — "the joy of grief," as Ossian terms it, which loves to bmod u;ion its own loss, and ever repeats the one desolate thought which fills the heart, and which in the end again breaks forth into the long and loud agonising cry with which it began. All this will no doubt .seem both meaningless and extravagant to many, but it is never- theless a deliberately cxprcs.sed conviction. The characteristic poetry of the Ilig'dands is Ossian, its uiusic the pibroch ; and the 1: two voices embody the spirit and sing the praises of " Tir na'm lieann, na'n Gleann's na Gaisgcach" (" the land of the inoun tains, the glens, and the heroes "). I said I was sure he wotild rejoice to tliiiik that it was a HiLihlandcr who had seized O'Connor,* and he rephed, " I was deeply thankful to hear it." * The young man who rushed up to my carriage with a peti- tion and a pistol in Buckingham Palace Garden on February 29, 1872, and was seized by Lrown. qg — --w ■a- ■ — -a ( 235 ) lie i^osscsscd a keen sense of wit and great appreciation of hununir, and had a wonderful power of narrating anecdotes. He had Hkewise a marvellous power of winning people of all kinds, and of sympathising with the hij^hest and with the humblest, and of soothing and comforting the sick, the dying, the afflicted, the erring and the doubt- ing. A friend of mine told me that if she were in great trouble, or sorrow, or anxiety, Dr. Norman Macleod was the person she would wish t(< go to! And so it was! One felt one's troubles, weaknesses, and sorrows would all be lovingly listened to, sympathised with, and entered into. I detected a sign of illness in dear Dr. Mac- leod's accepting, contrary to his ordinary usage, my invitation to him to sit down, saying he could not stand well ; and I afterwards heard he had com- plained greatly of fatigue in walking back from the kirk. I said I feared India had done him harm. He admitted it, but said, " I don't regret it." I expressed an earnest hope that he would be very careful of himself, and that on his return at the end of October he would take Balmoral on his way. When I wished him good-bye and shook handa ^ # eft- ■-a ( =3S ) with htm, he said, " God bless your Majesty," and tlie tears were in his eyes. Only tiien did the thought suddenly flash upon me, as I closed the door of my room, that I miLrht never see this dear friend again, and it nearly overcame me. But this thought passed, and never did I think, that not quite three weeks after, his noble, pure spirit would be with the God and Saviour he loved and served so well ! I have since heard that he mentioned to several at Balmoral that he thought he should never come there again. I will here quote from my Journal some part of an account of my conversations at Balmoral on August 24 and 25, 1872, with Dr. Macleod's excellent and amiable brother, the Rev. Donald Macleod, about his dear brother Norman : — " He ( Norman) was a complete type in its noblest sense of a Highlander and a Celt, which, as Mr. Donald Macleod and I both observed, was pecu- liarly sympathetic, attaching, and attractive. I said that since my great sorrow in 1861, I had found no natures so sympathetic and so soothing as those of the Highlanders. . . . He (Donald Mac- leod) said, ' I went to him for everything ; he qj- ■ff £r -a ( 237 ) was like a father to me (he is twenty years his junior) ! His indefatigable kindness to every one was unequalled, and his patience was so great and he was so good.' His acts of kindness to people whom he did not know were frequent and unknown even to his family. His sense of humour and fun was unbounded, and enabled him to win the con- fidence of persons of the greatest diversity of character. Mr. Donald Macleod thinks, however, that it was a mercy his dear brother wa:- taken when he was, for that a life of inactivity, and pro- bable infirmity, would have been unbearable to him. ... His health had been unsatisfactory al- ready before he went to India, but, no doubt, that journey had done him great harm ; still he never would have spared himself, if he thought there was a Avork given to him to do. . . . His wife and children bore up wonderfully because he had taught them to look on the future state so much as a reality, and as one of such great happiness, that they felt it would be doing wrong not to rejoice in his joy. His faith was so strong that it held others in a marvellous manne*, and he realised the future state and its activity, as he believed, in a most remarkable way. tQ- # t& ■a ( 238 ) Visit to Lwerlociiy, 1873. Tuesday, September O), 1873. Got up at ten minutes to seven, ;',nd breakfasted with Beatrice at twenty minutes past seven. The morning was splendid. At five minutes past eight I left Balmoral with Beatrice and Jane Churchill in the landau and four (Brown on the rumb'e) for Ballater, whither General Ponsonby and Dr. I'^ox had preceded us. We had our own comfortable train : Jane Churchill came with us. Emilie Dittweiler, Annie Macdonald, JMorgan, cind jNIaxtead (Jane's maid) went in the dresser's compartment, and Francie with dear Noble,* with Brown next to me. After crossing the Bridge of Dnn, where we weie at half-past eleven, we had some cold luncheon, and by a c^uarter to one we were at Stanley /dilution, where we left the * Another favourite and splendid cullie. t& ■ff r ■a ( 239 ) main line from Aberdeen to ti.e south, and turned into the Hii,^hland Railway. Here, alas! the distance became indistinct, the sl:y grey, and we began fearing for the afternoon. At one we passed the really beautiful valley of Dunkcld, catching a glimpse of the cathedral and the lovely scenery around, which interested Beatrice very much, and made me think of my phnisant visits and excursions thence ; then passed opposite .57. Co lines, the Duchess's farm, by Dalgiise, and saw the large Celtic cross at Logierait, put up to the late Duke of Athole; \\\cn Pitlochry; after which we passed through the magnitkent Pass of Killickrankie, which we just skirted in our long drive by Loch Tay and Loch Tmntnel, in 1866. The dull leaden sky which overhung Dunkcld continued, and soon a wliite veil began to cover the hills, and slight rain came down. We passed close by Blair, which reminded me much of my sad visit there in 1S63, when I came by this same line to visit the late Duke ; and I could now see the great improvements made at the Castle. From h,;re the railway (running almost parallel with the road by which zve went so happily from Dalwhinmc the reverse way in 1S61) passes t- -EP £t -a ( 240 ) Dxlnaspidal Station — a very lonely spot — then up Driimouc liter, with Loch Garry and Loch Ericht, fine and wild, but terribly desolate and devoid of woods and habitations, and so veiled by mist and now beating rain as to be seen to but very litde advantage. Next conies Dalwhinnie Station, near the inn where we slept in 186 r, having ridden over from Balmoral to Glen Fishie, and thence down by Newton More ; consequently, the dis- tance across the hill is comparatively nothing, though, to avoid posting in uncertain weather, we had to come all this way round. At thirty-five minutes past two we reachc>l Kiui^ussie. 'l"he station was decorated with flowers, heather, and flags, and the Master of Lovat (now Lord Lieu- tenant of Inverncss-shire) and Clun}' Macjjherson (both of course in kilts) Avere there. We waited ti 1 all our things were put into our carriage, and then got out, in heavy rain at that moment:. We three wnt in the sociable, General Ponsonby and Brown on the box, Dr. Fox and my maids in the waggonette, the other maids and Francie with the dog and the remainder following in two other carriages. We passed through the villaee of Kiifjriissic, where there were two triumi)lial tfr -ff ^ - -^ ( ^-i' ) arches and decorations, and some of Cluny's men drawn u[), and then turned sharp to tlie left up amongst the hills, through the very poor long vil- lai^e of Newton More (which Annie Macdonald, whose late husband came from there, had never seen, but which et;^ had driven through in 1861), and on amongst desolate, wild, heathery moors. The road skirts the Spiy, whici 'i eanders through a rich green valley, hills rising grandly in the distance and on cither side. We passed the rock of Craig Dhu, and a castle amongst trees, where there was an arch, and the owner and his family standing near it, and where a nosegay was pre- sented to me. Next we came to Clnny Ca<.tU\ at tlic gate of which stood Mrs. iMacpherson with her family. We stopped after we had gone past, and she came and presented me with a nosegay. From here the road was known to me, if I can call going once to sec it in 1S47 knowing it. Very few inhabitants, and not one village after Ncioton More, only miserable little cottages and l;M-mhouses, with a few people, all very friendly, scattered about here and there. We changed horses first at Laggan Bridge, having crossed the Spcy over a large stone bridge, which I well Cf}-, -ff a- ■^ ■i& ( ) remember ; it is near Slralhmashic. Here we stopped a few minutes ; and a little girl presented me with a nosegay, and the innkeeper gave Brown a bottle with some wine and a glass. We were preceded the whole way by the postmaster of Banavie, who supplied the horses ; he was called McGregor, and \vf)re a kilt. We had only a pair of horses all along antl after the first stage — excellent ones. The roads ad.nirable — -hardly any hills, though we drove through such a hilly, wild country. The rain had ceased, and only occa- sional showers came on, which did not prevent our seeing the very grand scenery, with the high finely pointed and serrated mountains, as we drove along. Shortly after changing horses we left the river and came to the beautiful Loch Lac^gan, seven miles in length, along which the drive goes under birch, mountain-ash laden with bright berries, oak, alders, in profusion, and is really beautiful. I was quite pleased to see the loch again after twenty-five years — recognised it and admired its beauty, with the wooded promon- tories, its little bays, and its two little islands, its ferry (the only communication to the other side), and the noble hills, the two Ben Alders. i 1& -ft { M3 ) We stofijied, soon after passing- the ferry, in a very secliuled spot at five, and had our (made) tea in the carriaLiC which was very refreshing. We at length came opposite Ardverikie, which I so well remember, recal.'ing and relating, as we now drove along, many of the incidents of our month's stay there, which was as wet as this day. Sir John Ramsden, who has bought the property, was standing with some other people by the roadside. At the head of the loch is Moy Lodge, a pretty little place in the style of Ardverikie, at which Mr. Ansdell, the artist, is staying. A little beyond this we changed horses at Moy (only a single house), and drove along through Glen Spcan, which is very fine and grand in some parts, the road looking down upon the rapid, rusliing, gush- ing river, as it whirls along imbedded in rocks and overhung with wood, while high ranges of hills, fine and pointed in shape, are seen in the dis- tance r'sing peak upon peak. Along this road I had driven, but I had forgotten it. Before coming to the Bridge of Roy Inn, we saw some of the celebrated Parallel Roads quite distinctly, which are more clearly seer, farthf^r on, and which are very interest- ing to all geologists as being supposed to mark fQ- # cB-- ( 244 ) tlic beaches of an inland lake, which was pciu back by a great gl.icicr in Cilcn Spc.iii, and sub- sided to different levels, as the glacier sank or broke away at three successive i)eriods. The rain ceased, and we walked a little; before coming to the Bridge of Roy, where ' i changed horses for the last time, and directly afterwards passed a triumphal arch with heather and inscrip- tions, pipers playing, etc., and Highlanders as well as many other people drawn up, but we unfortu- nately drove past them too quickly. There was an inscrip'.ion in Gaelic on one side, and on the other "Loyal Highlanders welcome their Queen." The papers say that it was put up by Mrs. McDoncll of Kcppocli. About three miles farther on we reached Spcan Bridge, and it was already getting dark. Here there is only an inn, and Lord and Lady Al)inger and their tenantry met us. Lord Abinger said he had been requested to express the people's thanks for my honouring their country with a visit, and his little girl presented me with a large nosegay in the name of the tenantry. We then drove on through rather desolate moors, and the rain began to fall again very heavily. It be t&-- ■nt I) I '1' a-- ( ^43 ) came quite dark, and we could just descry moun- tains under which uc drove. At ten minutes past eij^ht we anixcd at Invcrlochy, entering by a lodge, which was lit up and looked cheery enough. The house is entered through a small, neat-looking hall, and I have three nice rooms upstairs, with the maitls close b\', and Beatrice and Morgan also, just at the (^her side of the passage. My sitting-room is very nice. It was nine before we got to dinner, which I to;.!; with lieatrice and Jane, I>rown waiting on us as well as Cannon* (the footman). The drawing-iooin is a large, rather handsome and well furnished room. We soon went up to our rooms, and all were gki'-l to go to bed. ^ % Inverlochy Castle, Wednesday, SepUiuher lo. Mist on all the hills, and continuous rain ! ^^\st disl'.earttning, but the \ lews from the hcnise beau- tilul, especially Irom my sittmg room, which has a bow-v\ .ndow, with two small ones on either side> looking towards Boi Nevis (which is close in front ♦ lie left iny scr\ice in 1879. -ff IB -ff ■.»p a- ^a ( H6 ) of It), and commands a lovely view of /v;;'/ fF//- //(u/i (farther to the right), and of Loc/i Linnhe, etc., a portion of Lock Eil (pronounced Loih Eel) which runs up a long way, nearly twelve miles, with the fine Moidart range, close to Glen Finnan, as a background ; and this, with Bixnavie and the hotel, close to the Caledonian Canal, is distinctly seen fron-i the other window. This very pretty little room does not open into any other ; next to it is Emilie Dittweiler's, next to that my dressing room, and Annie's room, all narrow and long, and next again is a really large and also long room, my bedroom, in which I had my own bed, which has been to Szcitzcrland, Invcrlrossachs, Sandrim^liain, and Baden. Downstairs is the dining-room, a good-sized room (in which the gentlemen dine), also the drawing-room, and a small library, in which zve take our meals. No room in the house opens into another. Though some of the bed- rooms are larger than those at Invcrh'ossac/is, the servants are not so well off After breakfast (which, as well as luncheon, Beatrice and I always took alone) at half-past nine, went upstairs again and looked at Pircnvn's room, which is a few sleps k)\ver than mine, in fact, only a very small bath- ■ff 1^^ -R ( 247 ) room. Beatrice is just op|)osite where I am, or rather round the corner. Jane Ciiurchill and tlie two gentlemen, upstairs, have also good rooms. As the rain did not cease, Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and I walked out in the grounds to the stables, which we looked at, then out at the lodge and as far as the farm, where, however, no beasts were at the time, and on coming home we went through the house and kitchen, servants' hall, etc., and were in at a quarter to one. There were short gleams of sunshine which lit up the splendid scenery, and I sketched from my window looking up to Banavie. Played with Beatrice on the piano. The day seemed better, but again and again the sunshine w^^s succeeded by heavy showers ; still we deter- niinetl to go out. So at twenty minutes to tive we tluxe started in the sc ciable. Brown on the box, with a pair o{ liorscs and a postilion who drove extremely well. We ch'ove past the distillery (be- tween this ant! I'oit William), then tm-ned to the right over the suspension bridge to Batiavu\ about a mile farther, v.hcre th.erc is a good hotel, quite close to the Catcdmian Canal, which we crossed by a bridge, and drove through Corpacli, a very small village, where the horses made a halt and 9- 4 cfl- ( -^4^S ) turned another way, ami Brown said nearly put us into a ditch ! hut \\c. soon _L;()t all ri^ht a_;ain, havin(,f to (^o on a little way to turn. W'c wmt alon^t^ the upper part of Lor// /:/'/, the sea K.ch, on which /u>/i U'li/iiiiit stands It is verj iK'.rrow at hrst, and then widiens cnit into a larj^e broad loch as you ap[jroach the heat! of it, Ix.n'oiuI which is the very fine rang-e of the JMoidart Hills, hii.;h antl very serrated and bold. These are close to Glcii Fiiuiaii. The road is excellent and iKJt hilly, though it .skirts the hills the whole- time and is very windinjj, with nnich wood, so that you drive a good deal under trees, ash, oak, alder, and the mountain ash which is now laden with red berries. The bright heather, i^rowing' in tufts of the richest colour mixed with a great deal of high tall bracken which is beginning to turn, has a lovely effect. Here and there were some very poor little huts, most miserable, of stone, wretchedly thatched with moss and grass, and weeds growing on the roofs, very dirty and neglected looking, the little fields full of weeds choking the ci.rn, and neglected bits of garden, bushes and brambles growing into the very window ; and yet generally the people who looked most poor had a cow I ^ -ff -a I £h )/ i --Q-j ( 249 ) W'c passed Juissi/cm, whicli belonged to the f.itlicr of th(,' Colonel C;im(;ron killed at Quatre '>ras, now merely ;i farmhouse, :ind surrounded h\' line trees. 1 think the drive to near iIk; head of the loch must have been neai'l)' U:n miles! It Avas a l)eautiful dri\c:, in sj)ite of the frequent very luMV}' showers c^f rain. We came home at twenty minutes to eioht. Good accounts of Leopold, but the weather has In.'en bad. Dined as yesterday Played on the piano with Beatrice in the drawing-room, and then v.e went ujjstairs, Thursday, September 1 1 . A pouring wet morning after a pouring wet niLiht. Could not lto (Jut all the morning. Ir, however, cleared up in the afternoon, and became very bright and fme. Just as we decided to go out at a (luarier past four, it began raining again ; however, as I left with r.e.atrice and J;inc in the sociable, it cleared, and was very fine for some time. \^^ Q. drove out the \va\' we came on Tues- day is i.u as Spcait Bridge, and then turned sharp to tht i'-ft .liong the Speaii, under fine trees which abound ii: the valleys, and in view of scattered c: 9- -^ um IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) t ^ // // > L '(/. ^ fJjt 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^ I 2.5 . .,. I 2.2 t \& iilM - 6" 1.8 U 11.6 V] ^^^ c^l ^/\ y //a Photographic Sciences Corporation ;V V cF \\ '^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. US80 (7)6) 872-4503 \ fl- -a ( 250 ) birches which creep up the hills. We changed horses after passing High Bridge and an old neglected-looking churchyard, from which a funeral party was evidently returning, as we met "a good few " (i.e. a good many) farmers in black, and saw the gate open and a spade near it. The road ascends to High Bridge, commanding a very fine view over the Den Nevis range and the hills above Loch Lochy, of which, as we approached the Caledonian Canal and came to a lock, we caught a glimpse. We changed horses at Gairlochy be- fore crossing the canal, by the side of which flows the Lochy. The road ascends and goes along the western side high above the canal and river, com- manding a splendid view of Ben Nevis and the surrounding range of hills, " the Grampians^ The road is, as all the roads here are, very good and most picturesque, winding through trees, witl small and wretched but picturesque cottages with little bits of fields dotted here and there and with High- land catde grazing about. It was again rainy and showery after we came to Gairlochy. We came down again to Banavie, the hotel at which seems excellent, and were at home by a quarter-past six. Beatrice and Jane took some tea in the dining- '& -ff fl- -Eb ( 251 ) room, and then took a short walk in the grounds, coming in at seven. Wrote. It was still raining, but not blowing. Played after dinner on the piano with Beatrice, and then went upstairs, and Jane Churchill read. Friday, September 12. A most beautiful bright simshiny day. After I)reakfast Mr. Newton, the artist, brought some lovely sketches. Sketched and painted, for the views are quite lovely, from my room. At eleven drove in the waggonette with Beatrice and Jane Churchill, General Ponsonby being on the box with Brown, to and through Fort William, which is three miles and a half from Inverlochy, passing the c<;lebrated Ben Nevis Distillery, which is two miles from here, and through a triumphal arch, just be- yond the bridge over the Nevis Bunt, by an old, very neglected gravejard, to the right, in which is an obelisk to McLachlan, a poet, and past the Belford Hospital, a. neat building, built by a Mr. and Mrs. B.;lford ; then a little farther on, entered the town, where there was a triumphal arch, the fcrt, now private property, belonging to Campbell ^ # r ■a I 2j2 ) 4 of Alonzie. Here Glencoe came to take the oath to King Wilham III. The town of Fort William is small, and, ex- cepting where the good shops are, very dirty, with a very poor population, but all very friendly and eniluisiastic. There are four churches (Esta- blished, Free Church, Episcopalian, and Roman Catholic). We drove on along Loch Eil (called Loch Linnhe below Corran ferry) a mile, and turned at A chin tee, and down to old Invcrlochy Castle, which is nearer to Fort William than the new castle. We got out to look at the ruin, but it is uninteresting, as there is so litde of it and literally nothing to see. About a quarter of a mile from the house we got out and walked ; home by half- past twelve. Friday, September 12. At a quarter-past three, the day being most splendid, started with Beatrice and Jane Churchill, the two gentlemen following in the waggonette (with Charlie Thomson on the box), and drove by Baiiavie, the same road we came home yester- day, as far as where we crossed the canal at Gairlochy — only, instead of going down to it, we . ^ ft ( 253 ) kept above, and went to the left : it is a beautiful road, coming in sight of Loch Lochy, which, with its wooded banks and blue hills, looked lovely. Leaving the main road, we turned into a beauti- ful drive along the river Arkaig, in Lochiel's property, reminding one very much of the Tros- sacks. As you approach Achnacarry, which lies rather low, but is surrounded by very fine trees, the luxuriance of the tangled woods, surmounted by rugged hills, becomes finer and finer till you come to Loch Arkaig, a little over half a mile from the house. This is a very lovely loch, re- minding one of Loch Katrine^ especially where there is a little pier, from which we embarked on board a very small but nice screw steamer which belongs to Cameron of Lochiel. He received us (wearing his kilt and plaid) just above the pier, and we all went on board the little steamer. The afternoon was beautiful, and lit up the fine scenery to the greatest advantage. We went about halfway up the Loch (which is fourteen miles long), as we had not time to go farther, to the disappointment of Lochiel, who said it grew wilder and wilder higher up. To the left cfr ^ •a ( '54 ) (as we went up) is the deer forest ; to the right he has sheep. Both sides are beautifully wooded all aloi^f the lower part of the fine hills which rise on either side, and the trees are all oaks, which Cameron of Lochicl said were the " weed of the country," and all natural — none were planted. A good many grow up all the hollows and fissures of the hills and rocks. Right ahead, where we turned, was seen a fine conical-shaped hill called Scour- na-iiai, and to the left Glcnnially, to the nonh Muiy Logan, and Ginsach and Gcrarnan on either side. Before we came to the turning we three had our tea, which was very refreshing. I tried to sketch a little, but the si'n shone so strongly that I could not Jo much. Mr. Cameron, who was with Lord Elgin in China, came and explained everything, and talked very pleasantly. His father had to let this beau- tiful place, and Lord Malmesbury had it for fifteen years. The Cannings used to go there, and I often heard Lady Canning speak of its beauties, and saw many pretty sketches which she made there. Thirteen years ago his father died, and he has lived there ever since. Alfred was there in i S63. B- ^ a ■ft (=^55) It was, as General Ponsonby observed after- wards, a striking scene. " There was Lochiel," as he said, " whose grcat-grand-inicle had been the real moving cause of the rising of 1745 — for without him Prince Charles would not have made the attempt — showing your Majesty (whose great- great-grandfather he had striven to dethrone) the scenes made historical by Prince Charlie's wan- derings. It was a scene one could not look on unmoved." Yes ; and / feel a sort of reverence in going over these scenes in this most beautiful country, which I am proud to call my own, where there was such devoted loyalty to the family of my ancestors — for Stuart blood is in my veins, and I am now their representative, and the people are as devoted and loyal to me as they were to that unhappy race. We landed at the little pier, but walked over the small bridges (the carriages following) — on which a piper was playing — a few hundred yards to a gate (on the side opposite to that by which we came), where we got into the carriages again. We drove through a beautiful road called the Day/; Mile — dark from the number of very fine hr- -4 a- -a ( =56 ) trees which overhancf it, while on the left it is overshadowed by beetling rocks with a rich tangled undergro' 'th of bracken and heather, etc. The heather grows very richly and fully in these parts, and in thick tufts. We saw here the cave in which Prince Charles Edward was hid for a week. We came out of this road at the end of Loch Locliy, which looked lovely in the setting sun, and drove along the water's etlge till nearly where we joined the road by which we had come. It is all Lochiel'c for a long way — a splendid possession. And now came the finest scene of all — Den Nevis and its surrounding high hills, and the others in the direction of Loch Laggan, a!! pink and glowing in that lovely after-glow (Alpcn- gliihen), which you see iii the Alps, It was •dorious. It crrew fainter and fainter till Uie hills became blue and then grey, and at last it became almost quite dark before we reached Bannvie, and we only got home at a quarter-past eight. As we drove out I sketched Ben Nevis from the carriage. Quantities of letters. The post comes in after eight and goes out at ten, which is very in- convenient. Our usual little dinner only, about nine. t&- 4 '£r- ft ( 257 ) Saturday, September 13. Another splendid morning-, of which we were very glad, as we meant to go to Gleneoe, which was the principal object of our coming here. Our nice little breakfast as usual. Sketching. At eleven we started, just as yesterday, Francie Clark* and Cannon going on the box of the second carriage. We drove through Fort William, on as we did yesterday morning by Achintee, and down the eastern side of Loch Eil, which was beautifully lit, the distant hills intensely blue. The cottages along the roadside here and there hardly deserve the name, and are indeed mere hovels — so low, so small, so dark with thatch, and over- grown with moss and heather, that if you did not see smoke issuing from them, and some very ragged dirty old people, and very scantily clothed, dishevelled children, you could not believe they were meant for human habitations. They are very picturesque and embedded in trees, with the heathery and grassy hills rising above them, and * My IIi[;i.land servant since 1870, and cousin to Brown. B ■ff a- -a ( =58 ) reminded me of Sxvitzcrland. There were poor little fields, fuller of weeds than of corn, much laid by the wet, and frequently a "calvie" or "coo" of the true shaggy Highland character was actu- ally feeding in them. The road, which runs close above the loch, com- mands an excellent view of the fiae noble hills on the opposite side of the loch. At Corrixn Ferry* (eleven miles) are seen across the loch Couaok/i, and Ardgoiir, Lord Morton's, at the entrance of a very fine glen. He has bought a large property in these parts, which formerly belonged to the Macleans. South of Corran Ferry the loch is called Loch Linnhc, and the road turns inland westwards, soon after passing up along the shore of Loch Levcii, which is, in fact, also an arm of the sea. After three miles we passed a few cottages called Onich, the high hills of Glencoc beg'nning already to show. All was so bright and green, with so much wood, and the loch so calm, that one was in perpetual admiration of the scenery as one went along. Four miles more from Corran Ferry brought us to Ballachtiltsh at a little before one o'clock. The situation of the hotel — the large one — on the • Here Alfred got his very favourite Skye terrier Corran. rfr ,_qjj fi — ft ( 259 ) opposite side, at the foot of the hills close to the ferry, is extremely pretty. There was a smaller and less handsome inn on the north side, by which we had come. Here we got out. after all our things — cloaks, bags, luncheon baskets, etc. — had been removed from the carriage, which we had to leave, and walked down to the boat. The small number of people collected there were very quiet and well b(.haved. Beatrice and Jane Churchill and I, with General Ponsonby and Brown, got into the boat, and two Highlanders in kilts rowed us across to the sound of pipes. On the opposite side there were more people, but all kept at a very respectful distance and were very loyal. A lady (a widow), Lady Beresford, who owns the slate quarries, and her daughter, in deep mourn- ing, were at the landing place, and one of them presented me with a bouquet. We got at once into two carriages (hired, but very fair ones), Beatrice, Jane, and I in a sort of low barouche, Brown on the box. We had a pair of horses, which went very well. The two gentlemen occupied the second carriage. The drive from Ballacliulish, looking both ways, is beautiful, and very Alpine. I remember Louise, and also Alice, making some tg-- --^ r fi ( 260 ) sketches from here wlicn they went on a tour in 1S65, We went on, windings under the hi^h green hills, and enter -d the village of Bal/(jc/iuli.\/i, vherc the slate (juarries are, and which is in- I. ,ited by miners. It was very clean anil tidy — a long, contniuous, strat^gling, winding street, where the poor people, who all looked very ch an, had decorated every house with (lowers and bunches or wreaths of heather and red cloth. Emerging from the village we entered the Pass of Glcncoe, which at the opening is beautifully green, with trees and cottages dotted about along the verdant valley. There is a farm belonging to a Mrs. MacDonald, a descendant of one of tlie unfortunate massacred MacDonalds. Tiie Cona flows along the bottom of the valley, with green "haughs," where a few cattle are to be seen, and sheep, which graze up some of the wildest parts of this glorious glen, A sharp turn in the rough, very winding, and in- some parts precipitous road, brings you to the finest, wildest, and grandest part of the pass. Stern, rugged, precipitous mountains with beautiful peaks and rocks piled high one above the other, two and tl— ■ff f --* ( =6. ) three thoiiRr.ncl feet liij^h, tower and rise up to the heavens on either side, without any sii^ms of habi- tation, except where, lialfway up *h(' pass, there are some trees, and nc-ar them hea;.' of stones on cither side of the road, remair' of what once were homes, which tell the bloody, fearful tale of woe. The place itself is one which adds to the horror of the thought that such a tiling could have been conceived and committed on innocent sleeping people. How and whither could they fly? Let me hope that William III. knew nothing of it. To the right, not far on, is Sv_en what is called Ossiiiis Cave; but it must be more than a thou sand feel above the glen, and one cannot imagine how any one could live there, as they pretend that Ossian did. The violence of the torrents of snow and rain, which come pouring down, has brought quantities of stone with them, which in many parts cover the road and make it very rough. It reminds me very much of tiie Devil's Bridge, Si. Golliard. and the Goschciicn Pass, only that is higher but not so wild. When we came to the top, which is about ten p.iilcs from Ballaihiilish, we sto|)ped and got out, and we three sat down under a low ■i? cB- --Q. ( 262 ) wall, just below the road, where we had a splendid view of those peculiarly fine wilcMooking peaks, which I sketched. Their Gaelic names are Na tri Peathraichcan {the Three Sisters), but in English they are often called "Faith, Hope, and Charity" We sat down on the grass (we three) on our plaids, and had our luncheon, served by Brown and Francie, and then I sketched. The day was most beautiful and calm. Here, however — here, in this complete solitude, we were spied upon by impudently inquisitive reporters, who followed us everywhere ; but one in particular (who writes for some of the Scotch papers) lay down and watched with a telescope and dodged me and Beatrice and Jane Churchill, who were walking about, and was most impertinent when Brown went to tell him to move, which Jane herself had thought of doing. However, he did go away at last, and Brown came back saying he thought there would have been a fight ; for when Brown said quite civilly that the Queen wished him to move away, he said he had quite as good a right to re- main there as the Queen. To this Brown answered very strongly, upon which the impertinent indi- *}■ •ff r- ft ( 263 ) vidual asked, " Did he know who he was ? " and Brown answered he did, and that " tlie highest gentlemen in England would not dare do what he did, much less a reporter " — and he must niove on, or he would give him something more. And the man said, " Would he dare say that before tliose other men (all reporters) who were coming up?" And Brown answered "Yes," he would before "anybody who did not behave as he ought." More strong words were used ; but the others came up and advised the man to come away quietly, which he finally did. Such conduct ought to be known. We were there nearly an hour, and then began walking down a portion of the steep part. The parish clergyman, Mr. Stewart, who had followed us up, and who had met us when we arrived at Ballachulish. explained the names of the hills, and showed the exar*" -^lace of the dread- ful massacre. He also said that there were many Episcopalians there from the old Jacobite feeling, and also Roman Catholics. There was seldom frost in the glen, he said, but there was a good deal of snow. 'Vr- -^ cS- — a ( 264 ) A short distance from where Ossian's cave is shown there is a very small lake called Loch Trcac/iiaii, through which the Coiia flows ; and at the end of this was a cottage with some cattle and small pieces of cultivated land. We drove down on our return at a great pace. As we came through Ballaclndish the post-boy suddenly stopped, and a very respectable, stout- looking old Highlander stepped up to the carriage with a small silver quaich, out of which he said Prince Charles had drunk, and also my dearest Albert in 1847, and begged that I would do the same. A table, covered with a cloth and with a bottle on it, was on the other side of the road. I felt I could hardly refuse, and therefore tasted some whisky out of it, which delighted the people who were standing around. His name, we have since heard, is W. A. Cameron. We drove to the same small pier where we had disembarked, and were rowed over again by two Highlanders in kilts. The evening was so beau- tiful and calm that the whole landscape was reflected in the lake. There is a high, conical- shaped hill, the commencement of the Pass of Glencoe, which is seen best from here ; and the IS- tp- •-a ( 265 ) range of hills above y7;v)^v77/r and Corraii Ferry opposite was of the most lovely blue. The wliole scene was most beautiful. Three pipers played while we rowed across, and the good people, who were most loyal and friendly, cheered loudly. We re-entered our carriages, and drove off at a quick pace. When we were on the shores of Loch Eil again, we stopped (but did not get out) to take tea, having boiled the ke'.tle. The setting sun cast a most glorious light, as yesterday, on Ben Nevis and the surrounding hills, which were quite pink, and gave a perfectly crimson hue to the heather on ihe moor below. The sky was pink and lilac and pale green, and became richer and richer, while the hills in the other direction, over Fort IVilliam, were of a deep blue. It was won- derfully beautiful, and I was still able to make, or at least begin, a sketch of the effect of it, after we came home at a quarter to seven, from Beatrice's window. Resting and writing. Leopold has had far less fine weather for his excursion than we have had. eg— -ff a — ( 266 ) -a SuJiday, September 14. It was dull, and there had been some rain, but it cleared, and the day was fine, though not bright. At twenty minutes past eleven walked out with Beatrice. We walked first to look at the kitchen garden, which is large, and has some very nice hot-houses with good grapes. From here we went out by the lodge, meeting not a soul, and past the farm, going down a road on the left to a small burn, over which there is a .foot-bridge. Finding, however, that it only led to a keeper's house, Brown advised us to return, which we ac- cordingly did, coming by the back and the stables, and in at ten minutes to one o'clock. Rested, wrote, and then read prayers with Beatrice, and part of Mr. Campbell's * sermon, which Beatrice was so pleased with that she copied it entirely. Luncheon as usual. Painted and finished tiie view looking towards Forf William, At five drove out with Beatrice and Jane Churchill in the waggonette. We drove past the * The newly appointed minister at Cralhie. ^- [? "?- ft ( 267 ) distillery ; and then just beyond the bridc^e, which must be very httle over two miles from Inverlochy, we turned off the main road. We drove up for four miles along the Nevis, a fine rapid burn rolling over large stones and almost forming cascades in one or two places, under fine trees with very steep green hills rising on either side, and close under and along the base of Ben Nevis, which rose like a giant above us. It was splendid I Straight be- fore us the glen seemed to close ; halfway up we came to a large farm, the drive to which is under an avenue of ash trees. But there is no other habi- tation beyond this of any kind ; and soon after the "trees become fewer and fewer, though still a good many grow at the burnside and up the gullies of the hills. Sheep were grazing at a great height. The road became so rough and bad that we got out and walked almost a mile, but could go no farther. We were delighted with the solemn soli- tude and grandeur of Glen Nevis; it is almost finer than Glcncoe. 'I'here was no one when we first entered the glen, but as we walked back we met several people coming out to look. After getting into the carriage again, I stopped a little to take a rough sketch. k ■ff t& -a ( 268 ) The farm belcnc^s to Mrs. Campbell of Afomir, only daughter of the late Sir Duncan Cameron of Fassi/eni, who owns a good deal of Ben iVcvis. Every hill has a name, but I cannot remember them, though I have them written down by the keeper at Inverlocky. As it was still a little too early to go home, we drove as far as the Fort and turned back, coming in at a quarter past seven. Writing. The post comes in at a most inconve- nient hour, a little past eight. Dinner as usual. My favourite collie Noble is always downstairs when we take our meals, and was so good. Brown making him lie on a chair or couch, and he never attempted to come down without permission, and even held a piece of cake in his mouth without eating it, till told he might. He is the most " biddable " dog I ever saw, and so affectionate and kind ; if he thinks you are not pleased with him, he puts out his paws, and begs in such an affectionate way. Jane Churchill read. B- # fl- ( 269 ) -a Monday, September 15. The mist hung about the hills, but the sun struggled through. It was very mild and became beautiful. We decided to go up Gleiifinnan and to lunch out. Painted and finished two other sketches looking up Loch Eil and towards Bana- vie, and then wrote, after which at a quarter to twelve took a short turn in the grounds with Beatrice. At twenty minutes to one started with Beatrice and Jane Churchill in the sociable (Brown going each day of course with us on the box), the two genilcmen following (with Francie Clark and Charlie Thomson), and drove past Banavie through Cor pack and up Loch Eil. When we had come to the head of the loch, the road turned towards the right, winding along through verdant valleys, with that noble range of Moidart before you, rather to the left. In one valley, which be came very narrow after passing a large meadow in which they were making hay, we turned into a narrow sort of defile, with, the str:Mm of the Finnan fiowing on as slowly as an English river. 4^ ^ [fl- ft ( 270 ) with trees and fir trees on the rocks, and unlike anything I had seen in Scotland, and then you come at once on Loch Shiel (a freshwater loch), with fine very high rugged hills on either side. It runs down twenty miles. At the head of the loch stands a very ugly monument to Prince Charles Edward, looking like a sort of lighthouse surmounted by his statue, and surrounded by a wall. Here it was that he landed when he was brought by Macdonald of Borradale — whose descendant, now Macdonald of Glenaladale, has a house here (the only habitation to be seen) — to wait for the gathering of the clans. When Prince Charlie arrived at the spot where the monument stands, which is close to the loch and opposite to Glenjiiinan (the road we came going past it and on up a hill to Arisaig, twenty-five miles farther on), he found only a dozen peasants, and thought he had been betrayed, and he sat down with his head in his hands. Suddenly the sound of the pipes aroused him, and he saw the clans coming down Glenfinnan, Soon after the Macdonalds appeared, and in the midst of a cheer- ing host the Marquis of Tullibardine (Duke of Athole but for his attainder) unfurled the banner H~j ' -ff e- -a ( 271 ) of King James. This was in August 1745. In 1746 poor Prince Charles was a fugitive hiding in the mountains on the sides of Loch Arlcaig and Loch Shicl. As we suddenly came upon Loch Shiel from the narrow glen, lit up by bright sun- shine, with the fine long loch and the rugged mountains, which are about three thousand feet high, rising all around, no habitation or building to be seen except the house of Glcnaladale, which used to be an inn, and a large picturesque Catholic church, reminding one, from its elevatcl position to the right and above the house, of churches and convents abroad, I thought I never saw a lovelier or more romantic spot, or one which told its history so well. What a scene it must have been in 1745 ! And here was /, the descendant of the Stuarts and of the very king whom Prince Charles sought to overthrow, sitting and walking about quite privately and peaceably. We got out and scrambled up a high hillock off the road, where I lunched with Beatrice and Jane Churchill and then sketched, but did not attempt to colour. We walked about a little, and then came down to the road to speak to Mr. Macdonald of Glcnaladale, whom General Pon- i^- & ifl- ^-a ( 272 ) sonby had been to speak to, and who had never seen me. He is a stout, robust-looking High- lander of about thirty and a widower. He is a Catholic, as are all the people in this district. The priest is his uncle, and lives with him. He showed me some curious relics of Charles Edward. An old fashioned, strange silver snuff " mull " which had been given by him to Macdonald's ancestor, with the dates 1745 and 1746 engraved on it, for at Borradale Prince Charlie slept for the last time in ScotUnid\ a watch which had belonged to him, and a ring into which some of his fair hair had been put, were also shown. This is the district called Moidart, and from the highest hills the Isle of Sky e. is seen distinctly. Lord Morton's property comes up close to Loch S/'iiel, and to the right are Lochiel, etc., and Mac- donald of Glenaladales in front, at the head of the loch. The family used to live at Borradale near Arisaig, but acquired Glenaladale from the former Macdonalds of Glenaladale who emigrated to Prince Edward's Island after the Forty- five. Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and Brown went up with Mr. Macdonald to the top of the monument, t& -ff a ■a ( 273 ) but said the ascent was very awkward and diffi- cult. General Ponsonby had been into the church, and said it was very expensively and handsomely decorated, but we have since heard there are only about fifty people n the neighbourhood. We iJ't this beautil'ul spot about half-past four, having spent two hours there. The evening was not so bri'^ht as on Friday and Saturday, and there was no after-glow on the hills, B^n Nevis having its top covered with mist, as it often has. The horses were tired, and went rather slowly. I observed a flower here, which I have not seen with us at Inilmoral, viz., instead of the large white daisies * — " Marguerites," as the French call them, and of which such numbers are seen in the fields in England — there is a large yellow one,f just the same in form, only the petals are bright yellow. The heather, as I before observed, is of a very full and rich kind, and, as we drove along, we sa ,v it on the old walls, growing in the loveliest tufts. We met those dreadful reporters, including the man who behaved so ill on Saturday, as we were * C/irysaitt/icinum Leuc.vU/teinuiit, Wliite ox-cyc daisy, •j- Chrysantliemum scgetitin, Yellow ox-eye or corn mari- gold ta -w -a ( 274 ) coming back. We got home at twenty minutes past six. Had some tea. Wrote and put every- ti\ing in order. All had been setded about money to be given, etc. Our last nice little dinner, which I regretted. Came up directly after and wrote. Tticsday, September 16. Had to get up by seven, and Beatrice and I breakfasted at a quarter to eight. The morning was fine. The real name of the place used to b'* Torhindy, which is the name of the " lochie," or " tarn," below the house, in the middle of which there is a little island on which there are ducks. The property, which is very large, sixty-four miles in extent, was purchased from the late Duke of Gordon by the late Lord Abinger, who began a house, but it was burnt down ; the present Lord built this one, in fact, only ten years ago, and added to it since. He has called it Invcrlochy Castle, after the old fortress, which is supposed to have belonged to the Pictish kings, but the present ruin is thought to date from the time of Edward L The Marquis of Montrose defeated the Marquis B- ^ a ---a ( 2/5 ) fif Aiv^vlo tlicre in 1645, an incldriit de^cribctl in Sir Wiilter Scott's " Lej^^cnd of Montrose." At a q iarler-i)ast ei^ht we left fnvcrhchy Caslh\ where we had spent very pleasant days. Tlie gentlemen had ij^one on bc'fore. We drove to Baiiavic, where a good many people were assembled, and stepped on board the steamer Avhich was on the Caledonian Canal. Here were Lord and Lady Abinger, whom I thai\ked very miicn for their kindness. I left an illustrated copy of my book and prints of Albert's and my portraits at Inverlochy for Lord Abinger. She is an American lady from the Sotitheni States, a Miss Macjnuder, and they have five children, of whom one only is a boy. They left the steamer, and we began moving. The steamer is called the " Gondolier." It is built on the same principle as the one we had on Lock Lomond, with a fine large cabin with many windows, almost a deck cabin (thongh it is down one flight of steps), which extends through the ship with seats below, open at the sides far forward. In this large cabin sixty-two people can dine. We remained chiefly on deck. We steamed gently along under the road by which we had driven from Gairlochy and ^- --ff cfl- ""fij ( 276 ) Ac/inacany, Locliiel's to the left or west, and Lord Abinger's to the right. Ben Nevis, unlbrtu- nately, was hid in the mist, and the top invisib! :, which we hear is very generally the case. We came to one lock, and then shortly afterwards to Gairlochy, after which you enter Loch Locliy. The Caledonian Canal is a very wonderful piece of engineering, but travelling by it is very tedious. At each lock people crovvded up close to the side of the steamer. As the river rises from Danavie to Loch Oich (which succeeds Loch Lochy), the canal has to raise the vessels up to that point, and again to lower them from Loch Oich to Inverness. The vessel, on entering the lock from the higher level, is enclosed by the shutting of the gates. The sluices of the lower gates are raised by small wind- lasses (it was amusing to see the people, including the crew of the steamer, who went on shore to ex- pedite the operation, which is not generally done, run round and round to move these windlasses), and holes are thus opened at the bottom of the lower gates, through which the water flows till the water in the lock sinks to the lowest level. The lower gates are then opened, as the water is on the lowest level, while the upper gates keep back tQ- W £r -a ( ^77 ) the water above. The same process raises the ships in the lock which ascend. About five or six feet can be raised or depressed in this manner at each lock. (I have copied this from an account General Ponsonby wrote for me.) As we entered Loc/i Locliy, which looked beauti- ful, we saw where Lech Arkaig lay, though it was hid from us by h:_L;h ground. The hills wliich rise from LocJi Lor/iy are excellent pasture for sheep, but the lower parts are much wooded. After ei ;ht miles' sail on Lof/i Lvcliy we came to Lock Oic/>, which is entered by another lock at Lag-^nin. 1 lerc Mr. and Mrs. Ellice (who is a first cousin of the Gre)'s) were waiting, and came on board. They had wished me to get out and drive rovmd their fine place, Livcrgarry, to rejoin the steamer at the next lock, but I declined, preferring to remain quiell)' on board, though tlu; process of going through the locks is slow and necessarily tedious. It is nervous work to steer, for there is hardly a foot to spare on either side. Mrs. Ellice went on shore ag^ain, having given us some fine grapes, but Mr. Ellice remained on board till the next lock, Cullochy. A road much shac'cd runs along the side of the loch, and here we passed tfr # cS -a ( ?7o ) the small monument by its side, put over tlie well into which a number of h ^ads of some of the Mac- Donalds, who had murdered two of their kinsmen of Kcppoch, were ih.rown after they had been killtd in revenge foi this act, by order of MacDonald ol the Isles. It was erected in 1S12. We next came to the old ruined castle of Invcr^an y\ embosomed in trees, close to which, but not m si^ht, is Mr. h'-llice's new house. lie has an immense deal of properly here on both sides. The hills rise hi,;Ji. and one conically shaped one called Ben 7'i ;/i towers above the rest. At Cullocliy Mr. lilliee left the steamer. Mr. P^rewstcr, formerly Lo;-d Chancellor of Ireland and neail)- eighty years old, was standincr on the shore here. Fiancie and one of the policemen got out \\\'\\ good Noble, and walked to meet us atrain at Fori An''us/u^. While we were stopping to go through one of the locks, a poor woman came and brought us a jug of milk and oat-cake, which with their usual hospitality the country people constantly offer. After this, and at about ten minutes past tweh'e, Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and I went below and had some hot luncheon. The peo|)le from the locks looked down upon us, but it ^vas un- tg- ■ff r- •"& ( 279 ) avoidable. We had now reached Fort Arig'usfus, where there was again some delay and a great many people, and where there was a triumphal arch. Here on this very day thirly-six years ago my beloved Albert passed, and he saw poor Macdonald the Jager here, and took a liking to him from his appearance, and, being in want of a Jiiger, inquired after him and engaged him. He was keeper to Lord Digby and Colonel Porter then, and broucrht some <>ame for dearest Albert from them, and Albert was greatly struch by his good looks. He was very handsome, especially in the kilt, which he habitually wore. There had been a heavy shower, but it was over when we came up on deck again. We en- tered Loch A' CSS here. It is twenty-four miles long, and broad, the banks wooded, with many pretty places on them. Wc passed IiivciDiorris- ton in (iLn Hforrisioit, the seat of Sir G. Brooke Middleton, formerly Grant property. (So many of the fm(\st, largest estates in the Hi]i^/i/aiids have passed into English hands, cliielly by purchase, but also often by inheritance.) Payers, the celebrated falls, which are much visited, could just be seen, but not the falls themselves. Everywhere, where L. 8- -EP a- a ( 2S0 ) there were a (cw houses or any place of note, people were assembled and cheered. Next, to the left comes the very fine old ruin of Castle Urquhart, close upon the LocJian Rcchs, where there were again a great many people. 'Ih.e Caslle has stood several sieges, and one in par- ticular in the fourteenth century in tlie reign of lulward I. It belongs to Lord Seaficld (head of the Grants), who has a very large property here, and whose own shooting-place, Balviacaan, is up in the glen just beyond. The fine mountain of Afcal/oiirvonie rises above it. It is two thousand seven hundred feet high, but the peak alone is seen from here. I tried to sketch a litde, but in vain, the wind in my face was so troublesome. At about twenty minutes to four (or half-post three) we passed Dochfojir House, j\Ir. Baillie's, which I think stands rather low, and in which Albert passed this night t\vent)-six years ago. A few minutes more brought us to Docli^arroch, quite a quiet place, but where a good many people had assemljlcd. We wailed to see every one and all our luggnge landed and packed in ar,d off before we stepped on shore. It v/as an amusing sight. There must have been two or eg — r -B.1 ( 2St ) three carriages besides ours. The last to drive off was the one in which Morgan, Maxted, and Lizzie Stewart* got, with Francic Clark and Noble on the box. Mr. Baillie and Lady Gcorgiana, whom I had not seen for long, were at the end of the landing platform, as well as Mr. Evan Baillie and Mrs. Colvillc, their son and daughter. Two little girls put down bunches of flax for me to walk upon, which it seems is an old Highland custom. There is a small village A-here we landed. Lady Georgiana Raillie is quite an old lady, aunt of the Duke of Manchester, and grand daughter of the celebrated Duchess of Gordon. Beatrice, Jane, and I got into a hired (not very beautiful) open landau (on the rumble of which Brown sat, as in crowds it is much safer to have a person close behind you) with a pair of post- horses and a postilion. In the second carriage went General Ponsonby, Emilie Dittweilcr (sitting next to him), Dr. Fox, and Annie, every available place being necessary. We were escorted by the 7th Dragoon Guard.=, which was thought better on account of the great crowds in Invo-iicss, * My second waidiobc maid since 1879, a native of Bal- moral. ^ -W cS- ■a ( 2S2 ) where no Sovercii^n had been seen since my poor ancestress Queen Mary. The mixture of half state and humble travelUn;^^ (we being in our common travelling dresses) was rather amusing. The evening was beautiful, and Inverness Licked e\'treinely well on the blue Moray Frith. We passed a magnificent building, which is the county Lunatic As}luin. We had to drive six miles to the town, through a small portion of which only we passed, and had to drive quickly, as it was late. The streets were full of decorations ami arches, and lined with volunteers. Great cider pre- vailed, and the people were most enthusiastic. The fine-looking old Provost was there, and the Master of Lovat, who walked up along the station with us. A great squeeze, which Brown, having a great heap of cloaks etc. to carry, had some difficulty in getting tli-ough. But everyone, including the dog, got safe in, and we travelled by train as before. We went the same way as last year, but never stopped till we got to Keilh, where last time our door got wrong. After this, about six, we had some warm tea and cold meat, whi.h was very refreshing. A fme evening. t& 4 fl- -^ ( 2S3 ) We reached Ballatcr at five minutes to nine, and started at once in the open landau and four, preceded by the outrider with the lamp. There were a few drops of vain, but very slight. At twenty minutes to ten we reached Balmoral safely, very thankful that all had gone olf so well. fQ- -^ a- ( 284 ) mome-coming of their roval hlgitnksses the Duke and Duchess of Edinuukgh, August 1S74. ■a a Saturday, Angiist 29, 1874. At a quarter to two started in the landau and four with Beatrice and Lady Abercromby, Brown in full dress on the rumble. It was raining, so we kept the carriage shut, but there were decided symptoms of clearing, and by the time we reached Ballater the sun began to shine, and the rain ceased as I got out. The train with Alfred and Marie had already arrived, and Marie got out as I advanced. Alfred was already out of the carriage. I kissed them, and then, with Marie, Alfred, and Beatrice, got in again, the carriage being open, and it was very fine. Marie wore a brown travellinjr dress with a te --ff k a ^ ( =85 ) hat. When we reached the bridge we went slowly. The Ballatev company of volunteers, to the number of thirty (kilted in Farquharson tartan), were next it, and from here to the arch, and beyond it, stood all our people in full dress with their families, and all the tenants of the three estates with theirs, also the ladies and gentlemen. The pipers walked in front playing, and our keepers and others, who wore full dress, on either side (Brown remaining in his place on the carriage), followed by all the other people. In this way we proceeded through the arch up to Balmoral, just as when Helena arrived, only then there were fewer people. Leopold was in his carriage. We got out at the door of the Castle, and then Dr. Robertson proposed the health of Alfred and Marie, which was drunk by all with cheers. Then two reels were danced, after which we took Marie and Alfred to their rooms down- stairs, and sat with them while they had tea. t& -^ a -^ ( 2S0 ) Departure of the Prince of Walks from AUEKGELDIE BEFORE LEAVING FOR InUIA. Ba'moral, Friday, Sj timber 17, 1S75. Coming home from our drive at twenty minutes past seven, w^e had passed Bertie's carriage in the Balloch Biiie, but we heard no sound of a carriage wlien we went downstnirs for dinner a little before nine, and Alix [Princess of Wales] had also not arrived. Their people having come, we consulted with Charlotte Knollys * what to do, and sent to beg Alix to come and order Bertie's things to be brought to the Castle. At length, at half-past nine, Bertie arrived, very hot, having lost his way and been separated from the others. • Lady to the riinccsof Wnlps, clclfst dnu^'Iuer of General Sir William Knollys, K.(". !>., tor ii.an) \cais ai ihc head of tlie I'finic ot Wales's l.oiis^l.old. a- C&- -ff c: a- ■fii ( 2S7 ) II<^ had got four stags (and had been hicky alto- gether), and he asked us to go to dinner. We accordingly sat down — Lenchen, Oealrice, Jane Churchill, and Lord Carnarvon. Christian had gone on to look alter Bertie, but he soon returned. Only at ten did AHx arrive, and at ten minutes past ten, Bertie ; and we did not get up from dinner till half-past ten. All the ladies and gentlemen came into the drawing-room after dinner, and all felt that this terrible parting was hanging over us. At eleven I took Bertie and Alix upstairs, and talked over various details of this anxious journey to India. Then it came to the saying good-night, and Bertie sent for Lohlein and Brown to come and take leave of him. I saw how that began to try him, and it grieved them. He shook hands with both, and I felt nearly upset myself when Brown shook him by the hand, and said : " God bless your Royal Highness, and bring you safe back!" Me also wished my maids good-bye, who were standing there. Poor dear Alix seemed to feel it much, and so did I, as I embraced them both several times, and said I would go to see them off next morning. 43-- -ff t& ^ -Qi ( 288 ) Saturday, September 18. A dull and rather raw morniii!:^. Breakfa. ted alone (as Beatrice was not quite well, with a sort of chili) at nine in the cottage. At half-past nine I drove off with Lcnchen to Abergcldic. There we found all in considerable confusion. Bertie was out in the j^arden, where we waited a liltle while, and then I went up, and found poor Ali.x putting up her things in her bed- room — the little girls there — the maids not yet off. At length, at a quarter-past ten, they left. Dear Bertie wished all good-bye. Our ladies and gentlemen and all the people were assembled outside. Poor dear Beatrice was the only one absent. Christian had gone on before. Bertie shou'.i hands with all; I wished him every possi- ble .'uccess, and that God would bless and pro- tect him during this long and anxious journey to the East. It was very sad to see him drive off with Alix and the boys (the little girls followed in another carriage), not knowing what might not happen, or if he would ever return. May God bless him ! -ff lJ- .n .-p -a ( 289 ) Visit to Inveraray, September 1875. Tuesday, September 21, 1875. We had a family dinner at twenty minutes to nine. At a quarter past ten left Balmoral with Beatrice and Jane Churchill, Brown on the rumble. We reached Ballater by eleven, when we took the railroad. General Ponsonby and Sir W. Jenner met us there. Emilie, Annie, Morgan (for Beatrice), Francie Clark, and the footmen, Cannon, Charlie Thomson, and Heir, went in attendance, as well as Baldry and three men of the police. The horses (six) with Bourner, Hutchinson, and Goddard with the luggage, had gone on in advance. We started immediately, and very soon after lay down. We w^ent steadily and slowly, but I did not sleep very well. ri -^ £r -ft ( 290 ) Ifivcraray, Wednesday, September 22. At eight we reached Tyndriun, a wild, pic- turesque, and desolate place in a sort of wild glen with green hills rising around. Here we break- fasted in the train, Brown having had the coffee heated which we had brought made with us, and some things coming from the nice-looking hotel. The morning was beautiful, just a little mist on the highest hills, which cleared off. There are a few straggling houses and a nice hotel at this station, where we got out and where Lord and Lady Brcadalbane met us, as this is his property. The day was beautiful. We got into the sociable (that is, Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and I) with a pair of posthorses, Brown and Francie Clark on the box, the two gentlemen and four maids in a waggonette following, and further behind the unavoidable luggage with the footmen, etc. The road lay up a broad glen, with green hills on cither side, on one of which arj lead mines belonging to Lord Brciadalbane. It was very winding, very rough, and continually ^- ^~& a- -ai ( 291 ) up and down, and we went very slowly. Looking back, behind Tyndrum was a fine range of hills which are in the forest of the Black Mount. Passed the entrance of a broad glen with many trees called Glenorchy (the second tide of Breadal- bane), and saw all along where the railway is being made. A small stream flows at the bottom. To the left we saw Deti Ltne\ then as we descended, the country became more and more beautiful, witli trees and copsewood sprinkled about, till we came to Dalmally, lyin^; embosomed in trees, with Ben Cniachan and ii., adjacent range rising close be- fore us, with the bluest shadows and tints on all the heights, and the sky pure and bright with a hot sun, though a good deal of air. Looking back we still saw the other green hills from which we had come. As it approaches Daimally the road goes under trees till }'ou reach the inn, which stands quite alone. The church is beautifully situated at the bottom of the glen, and is surrounded by trees. There was no large crowd here, and the people behaved very well. Daimally \s \\\\xX.^qx\ miles from T)n- druvi. Four horses were put on here to drag us up the first hill, which was long and high, nud B- ■-4 fl- -a ( 292 ) brought us in view of Loch Aiue, which looked beautiful. Here the leaders were taken off. Lock Awe extends back a good way, and we could just see Kilclinrn Castle, of historic celeljritv, a id tiie beautiful head of the loch with iiig'i hilr. the right, and the islands of Iiinishail anci J.H. > acl^onc, besides many smaller ones. On the first-named of these is said to be buried an ancestor of the Argylls. The loch is thirty miles in len^nli, and as it stretches out and widens the hills become much flatter. We drove (}uitc round tlie lu ad of Loch Aii'c, then passed Ciadich, and here the ground became very broken, and high hills were seen in the background, towering above the nearer ones. Bracken with birch and oak, etc., grow profusely among the green hills and rocks, miicl' as they do near Iiivcr/ochy, Loch Ed, etc. Ik • and there were small knots of people, but plv many. About five or six I'les before Iiivcraro\\ at a place called Crais-naSchlcacaich, at the foot of Glen Aray\ where the Duke's property begins, four of our own horses were waiting, anil here dear Louise and Lome met us, looking pleased and well. Lor: e rode, and ilear Louise got into her oonv-carria^^e and drove after us. VV<. oon fB- t a-- — a ( 293 ) after came to an arch witli a Gaelic inscription — " Ccud niille Failte clo'n Bhan Rhighinn do Iiierara'' (A hundred thousand welcomes to the Queen to Iiivcraiay). A very stout tenant's wife, Mrs. McArlhur, prcstmted me with a nosegay, which a child she held in her arms gave me. On we went along Glen Aray, the road as we approaclied Inveraray Castle being bordered on either side by trees. When we reached the gate there were two h; .berdiers, whilst others were postcxl at intervals along the approach, dressed in Campbell tartan kilts with brown coats turned back with red, and bonnets with a black cock's tail and bog- myrtle (the Campbell badge). With them were also the [jipcrs of the volunteers. In front of the house the volunteers in kilts and red jackets, and the artillery volunteers in blue ant! silver, of whom Lorne is the colonel, were drawn I'j), ami a good many spectators were assembled. The Duke and Duchess of Argyll and their si.K girls were at the door : the outside steps are now r.nder glass and made into a sort of conservatory. The Duke and Duchess took us upstairs at once to our rooms, part of which are Louise's ; very comfortable, not large but cheerful, and ^ & [fl- ( 294 ) having a beautiful view of Loch Fyne. It was one when we arrived, and we hinched at two, only Louise, Beatrice, and Lome, in a nice room (in fact the Duchess's drawing-room) with tapes- try, at the foot of the stairs. Brown (who has attended me at all the meals since we came here) waited, helped by two or three of the Duke's people. Alter lunch we went into the large draw- ing-room, next door to where we had lunched in 1847, wlien Lome was only two years old. And now I return, alas! without my beloved Husband, to find Lome my son-in-law ! In the drawing-room I found Lord and Lady Dufferin (who are staying here) as well as Sir John and Lady Emma McNeill. She is the Duke's only sister, and he a very fine old man (now eighty), v/ho was formerly my minister in Persia. Went upstairs to rest and sketch the splendid Ard- kiii>^lass Hills, from the window of the little turret which forms my dressing-room. Then had tea, and at half-past five drove out with Louise and Beatrice by tiie lodge called Crcitabhillc, through part of the wood or forest where the beeches are splendid, as also the spruces, on past Ballaclui- nooran, by the upper road, green hills, trees, oaks, -a [& -ff (0- ■a ( 295 ) ferns, and broken ground all along, like at Loch Eil, past Achnagoul, a little village lying close under the hill, to the Douglas Water, a small rapid stream. Here we turned back and went along this pretty little mountain stream, past some cottages and a small farm, and then came upon the shore of Lock Fyiie, the drive along which is lovely. As we drove, the setting sun bathed the hills in crimson, — they had been golden just before, — the effect was exquisite. Looking up and down the shores, the view was lovely, and the reflections on the calm surface of the lake most beautiful. We drove back through the small town of Inveraray, which is close to the gates of the Castle, and looks pretty from my window with its small pier, where we landed in 1847, and near to which there is a curious old Celtic cross. There are two inns, three churches, and a jail, for it is a county town. On coming home we walked a little in the garden close to the house, and came in at ten minutes past seven. Resting. Writing. Dinner at half-past eight in the room in which we lunched. The Duke and Duchess, Louise, Deatrice, and Lady Churchill dined with me. ta -ff a~ -a ( 296 ) Then went for a short while into the drawing- room, where, besides the family, which incUided Lord CoHn, were Dr. MacGregor, Mr. Donald Macleod, and Mr, Story (all clerg) men staying in the house), and the following gentlemen : Lord Ardmillan (who was there for the assizes), Mr. Camplxdl, of Slonefield (Convener of the county of Argyll), Mr. and Mrs. Hector Macneal, of Ugadale, etc. Mr. Macneal showed me a brooch which had some resemblance to the Brooch 0/ Lornc^ and had been given by King Robert Bruce to one of his ancestors. Thursday, September 23. This sad anniversary, when my beloved sistei" was taken from me, whom I miss so continually, returns' for the third time. A fine morning. Breakfasted in my sitting- room at a quarter to ten with Louise and Beatrice. My sitting-room is generally Louise's bedroom, which had been specially arranged by her for me, and in the recess the Duchess had placed a picture oi Balmoral, copied from A. Becker's picture. This opens into a small apartment, generally used as tg- -ff i -Eb ( 297 ) Lome's dressing room, in which my maid Annie sleeps and tiie two maids sit, next to which conies the bedroom, at the end of which is the nice cozy little turret-room with two windows, one of which looks on the loch with the very fine Ardkivglass Range in front, and the other on the front door, the bridge, and splendid trees. My dresser, Emilie Dittwe.iler, is next door to my bedroom, and l^eatrice next to her in Louise's sitting-room. At a little after eleven I walked out with Louise and Beatrice along the approach, and then turned up through the wood and up the lower walk of Diinaqiioich, the hill opposite the house, which is wooded nearly to the top, on whicli is a tower, and walked alonqr under ma^jnificent trees, chiefly beeches and some very fine spruces, that reminded rne of Windsor Park and Rciii- hardtsbrunn. We walked on some way, passed a well and a small cottage, where the poultry is kept, where there is a funny good-natured woman called Mrs. McNicholl, who kissed Louise's hand and knelt down when I came up, and said t) Louise, when she heard I was coming. " How shall I speak to her?" We went into the littl:! cottage, where another old woman of eighty lives. ffr -B^ [0- ■"ii ( ~9^ ) She looked so nice and tidy widi a vV;.in nhiic mutch. We then walkf^d down and cAiva b'lck alonq^ the river, which flows quite clo^e lo the house inLo the sea, and is full of fish. We were in at twenty minutes to one. Lunch'jon at tsvo, just like yesterday. The day was dull, but quite fair and clear. Drawing and painting. At a quarter-past four drove out with Louise, Beatrice, and the Duchess, in my waggonette, driven by Bourner. After going for some distance t!ie same way as yesterday afternoon, we turned into a wooded drive, leading to the G/cn of Essex ■ citosan, where there are the most beautiful spruces, and some silver firs which reminded me in height and size of those on the road to Ebcrstcin, near Badai, and on by what they call the Queen's drive, made for me in 187 1, past Lcchkenvolir, whence there is a fine view of the loch and surrounding hills, Ben Ecu, Ben Bnic, etc. The road is very steep going down to the Curling Pond and Black Dull Cottage ; then over Carlonnaii Bridge down to some falls, and back along the approach to the Dim Lock, under the avenue of fine old beeches, which, joining as they do, almost form an aisle. Eleven, alas ! were blown down two years ago : qj -J* fl^- ( 299 ) they wc^re planted by the Marquis of Argyll two iiundred years ago. You come rapidly upon the DJiu Loch, a small but very pretty loch — a com- plete contrast to our Dim Loch, for this is sur- rounded by green and very wooded hills, with the extremely pretty and picturesque Glen Shira in the background, which is richly wooded. We drove along the right bank of the Shira River, up as far as the sinall farm of Dnuii Lee, most prettily situated en the hillside some way up, passing one or two otiier farms — one especially, a very strange old building. We took our (made) tea, and Elizabeth (the Duchess) greatly admired the convenient arrangement (viz. the bag into which cups etc. are fitted), and then drove back the same way and along the shore road. Mome at ten minutes to seven. A charming drive, but there was a verj' liigh and cold wind. Louise, Beatrice, the Duchess of Argyll, Lord and Lady Dufferin, and Sir John and Lady Kmma McNeill dined with me, as yesterday. Went airain for a short while into the drawincr- room, where the Duke presented some other people — the sheriff, Mr. F. A. Irvine of Drum (in Abcrdcensnire), Mr. J. Malcolm of Poltalloch (a B- ~w [fi- ( 300 ) -^ finc-lookino^ man, whose son, a tall lar<;c man, dined here yesterday, and whose daughtt'r has just married Mr. Gathorne Mardy's sou), and Sir G. and Lady Home, who live just outside the town : he is sheriff-depute, and she a niece of Sir F". Grant. Went upstairs witii Beatrice and Jane Churchill, Louise always renuiininji; below. Friday, ScpLinber 24. Raining and blowinpf. Breakfasted with my two dear daughters. The rain ceased, and at a little past twelve I walked with Louise and Beatrice up by the lodge at the stab! 3, which are in the " Cherry Park," and looked at our horses and Louise's, and saw a little dog, the daughter of Louise's poor old Frisky ; antl then walked along at the back of the stables, where the trees are very fine — most splendid silver firs — -and then i)ack by the kitchen-garden and the straightcst path, I'ast a magnificent Scotch Hr of great height and circumference. In at twenty minutes [)ast one. It was dull and dark. At a cjuarter-past five, after tea. started with Louise, Beatrice, and jane Churchill in the rain, tS- 4 [&-^-'- & ( ?oi ) which turned to a heavy downpour. We drove up the way we had previously walked, by the private road, under trees the vhole way, to Lynn a Glutlien, the highest fall of the Amy, which is very pretty. There we had to get out to walk over a wooden bridge, which Louise said they did not like to drive over, and came back by the high road. By this time the weather had quite cleared, and so we drove on past the inn of Inveraray, through a gate wdiich is alwaj's left open, and up what is called the " Toion Avoinc" consisting er.tircly of very old beeches joining overhead and nearly a mile long, at the back of the town. We came back by the lime avenue in the deer park, and in by a gate close to the plea- sure-ground at half-past six. The halberdiers, all tenants of the Duke, kej)t guard the whole day. We dined at a quarter-past eight on account of the ball — only Louise, Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and I. Went into the drawino-room for '^ona iHoment. where the Duke presented Sir Donald Campbell of Dunslaffnagc and his wife, and J. A. Camjjbell oi New /iivcraiuc {Lock Aicc). Sir Donald Camp- bell is deputy-keeper of Dunsta£'nage Castle, and ■a ^ m a- ?o; ) --q] wears a key in consequence. lie is between forty and fifty, and wore a kilt, as did also Malcolm of Poltalloch and the other gentlemen. At a quarter- past ten we drove across to the temporary pavilion, where the ball to the tenants was to lake place. Louise, Beatrice, and Jane Churchill went witli me in the Duke's coach. The Duke, Lome, and Colin received us, and the Duchess -^ all the girls and the other ladies were inside \ upper end on a raised platform, where we all sat. It is a very long and handsome room, I believe a hundred and thirty feet long, and was built at the time of Louise's marriage. It was handsomely decorated with flags, and there were present be- tween seven and eight hundred people — tenants with their wives and families, and many people from the town; but it was not like the Highland balls I have been accustomed to, as there were many other dances besides reels. The band could not play reels (which were played by the piper), and yet came from G/a.\<^oza\ The ball began, however, with a reel ; then came a country dance, then anotlier reel Louise danced a reel with Brown, and Beatrice with one of the Duke's foresters ; but the band coukl only play a country Q- -ff cB-"- -^] ( 303 ) dance tunc for it. Another reel with pipes, in which Jane Churchill danced with Brown, and Francie Clark with Annie (Mrs. Macdonald, my wardrobe maid), Louise and Beatrice dancinsr in another reel with one of the other people and Mr. John Campbell. Then ctxmii :i " sc//o///sc/u'," which seemed to be much liked there, and more reels, and lastly a "/ewpe/e," in which Louise and Beatrice danced. In th.e early part a Gaelic song was sung by some of ihe people, including Mr. John Campbell. I remember some which were sung by the boatmen on Loc/i Tay in 1842. After the " tempcte" we came away at nearly half-past twelve. Saturday, Scptcinbcy 25. A pouring morning. Br-eakfast as usual with my two dear children — dear Louise so kind and attentive, so anxious I and all )ny people should be comfortable, thinking of everything. It cleared, and at half-past eleven I walked out with Louise (Beatrice walked with Jane Churchill and the girls) to the kennel, along the River A ray, which. had risen a great deal since Thursday, wlien it ■B- -ff c& ( 304 ) -^ was as low as possible. We went to the kennel and saw the dogs and the eagle ; from here we went to the kitchen garden, which is large. There are very fine peaches and a wonderful old laurel and thuja, which have spread to an immense size. Home at twenty minutes to one. Luncheon as before. Louise introduced me to a good old lady, a Miss iMcGibbon, who was too ill to come out and see me ; she patted Louise on the shoulder and said, " We are all so fond of the Princess ; slie is a great pet." Louise said, " Lome was her great pet ; " and she answered, " Yes ; he is, and so you are a double pet." * At ten minutes past four drove out with Louise, Beatrice, and the Duke in the waggon- ette, and took a charming drive, the afternoon being very fine and bright. We went out the same way we jiad been on Wednesday, and once or twice liesides, along the avenue called Balla- c/ianooraii, by the deer [lark (a great many gates having to be opened, as tliey must be kept locked to prevent the deer getting out), and struck into the Lochgtlpluad Road beyond Crovialt. We • She died suon after. eg -ff a- — a ( O^-'.T ) tlien passed, as on the first day, Dalchcnna and Killcan. Achnagoul and Achindrain. The last two places are old Highland villages, where a common old practice, now fallen into disuse, con- tinues, of which the Duke jrave me the followinof account: — In the HigJilands of Scotland up to a coniparativcly recent date the old system of village coinvninities prevailed as the common system of land tenure. Under this system the cultivators were collected into groups or villages, the cottages being all built close together on some one spot of the farm. The farm itself was divided into pasture land and arable land. The pasture land was held in common by all the families, and the arable land was divided Oy lot every year, so that each family might get its turn or its chance of the better and the worse qualities of soil. This very rude system is quite incompatible with any improved culture, but is an extremely ancient one. Sir Henry Maine has lately published a very interesting little book on the subject, showing that it once prevailed a'l over Europe, and docs still actually prevail over the greater part of India. It has now almost entirely disaji -eared in the Highlands, where such crofters or very small cultivators as remain are generally separate fn-ni • ach olhcr — each living on his own croft although thrre arc still remaining many cases of pasture or hill land held in common among several crofters, # cfi- ■a ( 306 ) Achua^oul, near Tnvevamy, is one of the old primitive, vi/ln^^es, wlicie all the houses are built close together, and where, as late as the year 1847, the old rude practice still held — that of an annual casting of lots for the patches of arable land into which the farm was divided. At that time there were sixteen families, and each of them cultivated perhaps twenty different patches of arable land separated from each other. About that year the families were persuaded with much difficulty to give up this old semi-barbarous system and to divide the arable land into fi.xed divisions, one being assigned to each tenant, so that he could cultivate on an improved syst'jm. But the village remains as it was, and is one of the comparatively few of that class which now remain in the Highlands. They are said to be the only two villages of the kind in existence in the Highlands. The inhabi- tants are very exclusive, and hardly ever marry out of their own villages. We went on between curious, rather low, grass hills on either side, some higher than others, and several of which "liave small lochs ^t the tops with excellent trout, as the Duke told us. He showed us some farms and other glens, and had something to say about each place. We next turned to the left, where we got into oak woods, passing some powder mills belonging to Sir G. Campbell, and cfl- -ff -a J ■a ( 507 ) a small villai^e called C^cm/oidcn, 01' nthei* a row of huts in which the people employed at the mills live, and from here turned to the villaije of Fiirnace, inhabited by the men who work the Duke's great quarries close to the sea, and which is so called from a number of furnaces which were used in the last century for smelting- down lead broucrht from Ensyland. The Duke showed us o o one remaining, though in ruins, and we passed a quarry. The drive went by the shore of Loch Fync, much reminding me of the drive along Lock lul beyond Baiiavie, between trees on either side, oak, ash beech, etc., with much underwood, hazel, bra etc., and we stopped at a point called Penny, ,ur, wlun; there is a small battery where Lome's vi' iiteers practise; and here the view, looking down the ioch towards the sea and the Kylcs of Bute with finely shaped hills, was very beautiful. The more distant hills were those above Ardrishaig. I tried to sketch here after we had taken our tea. We went alonii by Kcnniorc, Kilbrydc, and Dalchenna (again' and it was a lovely evening, with such so .s on the distant hills, and the town in front backed by trees. I took another sketch (only very slight, tg- -ff a — ( 30S ) in pencil) of this view from the Duchess's new school house, called Crcggaiis School. We got home by half-past six. Besides our two daughters and the Duke and Duchess, Lady Dufferin and Colin Campbell dined with me. Went as usual into the drawing-room for a little while, and then upstairs to my room. Beatrice remained with Jane and me. 'Cb Sunday, September 26. The morning was very wet, so decided after our usual nice breakfast not to go out, but wrote, etc. At a quarter to twelve we attended divine ser- vice in the house, in the large dining-room, which is a long room. Dr. MacGregor performed the service. Went afterwards into the drawing-room and the two libraries, the newer of which had been arranged by Louise and Lome. There are some fine pictures in the drawing-room — one of the Marquis of Argyll who was beheaded, of Field- Marshal Conway by Gainsborough, of Duke Archibald, who built the house, etc., also of the present Duke's handsome grandmother, who i3"**' ff ■Q] a- a ( 39 ) married first a Duke of Hamilton, secondly a Duke of Argyll. Luncheon as usual. Then upstairs, and at twenty minutes to four walked out with Louise, Beatrice, and Jane Churchill, and went along by the river, which had been over the road in the night, on to the " Millers Lynn" the first falls, which are very pretty and were very full, but are not near as high as the Garbhalt. We met some of the party coming back, and then some way farther up tlv; river got into t!ie carriage and drove to the " middU; fall " or EiS.xchlay, where we got out and \.vaiked to look at the fall ; then drove to Lynn a Gliithcii and saw the third fall, after wliich we drove some distance up GLn A ray, be)ond Stroiniiaoac/ian to Tidlich Hill, then back again past the stables, and on through the Town Avliuic back, and in by ten minutes past six. Took tea with Beatrice and Louise, who came in rather late, afterwards read and wrote. Besides Louise and Beatrice, Lome, Elizabeth Campbell, Jane Churchill, and General Ponsonby dined with me. We went into the drawing-room for a short Willie as usua * --ff a- -Q] c 310 ) Monday, Sep f ember 27. It was a dreadfully rough night, pouring and blowing fearfully, and we heard it had thundered and lightened. After our nice little bieakfast and writing", I went out at eleven with Louise, and met the Duke and the rest in the [)!easure-grounds, where I planted a small ccilai of Lebanon, the seed of which Lady Emma IMcNeill had brought back from tlie East. Then went on a little farther to where the road turns near the river, and i)!anted a small silver fir, opposite to a nKignificent one which my beloved Albert had admired in 1847. Beatrice walked up meanwhile with Jane Churchill, Evelyn, and Frances Campbell, to the top of the fine hill oi Dnnaijitoich, opposite the CasiK\ after seeing the trees planted, >'uid was to plant one herself when she came down, I drove off with Louise past the Crcitabhille Lodge, the granite quarry (not, of course, the large ones which we saw on Saturday in the deer forest), and then got out and walked up a long steep path in the wood to obtain a view, of which, however, we did not see much. I am sure we walked a mile and a half '0- Ji: a- ft ( 3ti ) up to the top, and it was a long pull, but I walked well. However, in going down, the wet grass and moss made me slip very much, having no nails to my boots, and twice I came down com- pletely. We drove back by Essachosan as quickly as we could at a quarter to one. The trees are wonderfully thick, and the tangled undergrowth of fern etc. is almost like a jungle. We had hardly any rain. Luncheon as usual. Drawing. The views from my room were so fine. While I was dressing to go out, Louise brought in Arclii- bald Campbell's two lovely little children, little Neil, a dear pretty fair boy of three, very like Archie as a child, and the baby, Elspeth, who is beautiful : brown curly hair, enormous dark blue eyes fringed with very long dark eyelashes, and a small mouth and nose. At ten minutes to four drove off in the waggonette with Louise, Beatrice, and Lome, out by the approach along the foot of Diinaquoich, past the jew and chestnut avenue, over the Garonne Ih-i./s^r, along the lochside, an excellent road, much wooded, and commanding a beautiful view of the opposite shore and hills oi A niking/ass; ^,— . f a- -a ( 12 past the Stronc Point, Achnatra, and tlie ruins of the old castle or tower oi Dundcrave, which for- merly belonged to the McNaghtons, who subse- quently settled in Ireland, on to the head of Loch Fync. There we turned up to the left and drove up Glen Fyne, a very wild narrow glen with hardly any trees, and the water of the Fyne running through it. The high green hills with rugeed grey rocks reminded me of the Spital of Glcn- s/we and of Altanotir (Lord Fife's). We drove up to a very small shooting-lodge, the property of Mr. Callander, brother-in-law to Lord Archibald, where a keeper with a nice wife lives. As it was beginning to rain, we went into the house and took our (made) tea, and I sketched. Janie Campbell (Lady Archibald) and her two sisters lived here for some time. The Duke was their guardian. We drove back the same way, and encountered a tremendous shower, which only ceased as we were quite near home. We were home at twenty minutes to seven. Besides Louise and Beatrice, the Duke and Duchess and Sir John and Lady Emma McNeill dined with me. Mr. D. Macleod gone ; the others remain. B- ■ff cS- ( 313 ) ■a Tuesday, September 28. Bright and then showery. At a httle past eleven drove with Louise and Beatrice along the sea-shore as far as Douglass Water Point, where we stopped to sketch between the frequent showers, the view being lovely and the lights so effective. Home through the town by a quarter to one. Painting. Luncheon as each day, after which p.gs.in painting. At a cjuarter to four started off in a shower in the waggonette, with Louise, Beatrice, and Jane Churchill, for Glen Shira. We drove by the approach through the fine old avenue of beeches which suffered so much two years ago. This time along the right side of the Dhu Loeh, which is three-quarters of a mile long, up to the head of Glen Shira, which is seven miles distant f o n the upper end of the loch, and is lovely. We had driven up a gocd way hist Thursday, as far as Druvilee. It is a lovely glen, wilder and much shut in as you advance, with fine rocks appearing through the grassy hills, and thickly woode