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There is probably no portion of the North A meri- can Continent^ -within the confines of government and civilization, concerning which the general public has less definite and reliable information, than British Columbia. Hitherto comparatively inaccessible, and only by tedious and expensive modes of travel, it has been known chiejiy as the vast wilderness trap- ping, and hunting ground, of the Hudson Bay Company, and gold field of adventurous miners. Since the inauguration of that stupendous undertaking, the building of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and its progress towards the western shores of the Province, people abroad are beginning to inquire what this region contains, to warrant such an enormous outlay for its development. In the following pages we have briefly outlined its resources and capacities for stistain- ing a large and prosperous population, and directed attention to its wonderful attractions for the tourist and health seeker. In the preparation of the same, I am under great obligations to his Honor Lieut.- Gov. Clement F. Cornwall, Hon. fos. W. Trutch, C. M. G., F. R. G. S., M. Inst. C. E., Dominion Gov- ernmH A gt. for British Columbia, Hon. Allen Francis, American Consul, Mr. William Charles, Chief Fac- tor of the Hudson Bay Company, to the members and officers of the Provincial Government, Mr. Noah Shakespeare, M. P., Mayor of Victoria, Lqftus R. Mclnnes, M. D., Mayor of New Westminster, the British Colurubia Board of Trade, through its President, Mr. R. P. Rithet, and Secretary, Mr. E. Crow Baker, M. P., and to Mr. Wm. Wilson^ and others to whom I tender sincere thanks. N. H. C. Victoria, B. C, ith November, 1882. IN BRITISH COIaUIMEBIA BY NEWTON H. CHITTENDEN. INTR OD UC TOR T. A little over one hundred years ago, that bold mariner, Capt. Cook, cruised among the wonderful islands stretching along the shores of the then unknown, unnamed land of Bri- tish Columbia, Capt. Vancouver of the Koyal Navy soon followed in his course, and gave his name to the largest of the islands, and that of New Georgia to the south coast of the mainland. This was in 1792, but for more than forty years following, the numerous and populous Indian tribes inhabiting these shores, were the sole possessors and occupants of this whole region. Adventurous traders had occasionally visited the west coast of Vancouver, but no permanent settlement was made until 1843, when the Hudson Bay Company built a Fort and established a trading post upon the beautiful site of the City of Victoria, followed six years later by the forma- tion of the Vancouver Colony. In 1858, daxdug prospectors advancing up the coast from California, discovered the rich gold diggings of the Fraser, and so rapid was the influx of population, that another Colony was organized upon the main- land, and the jiresent territory of the Province set apart, and designated British Columbia. In 1866 the two Colonies united, and in 1871, were confederated as one of the seven Provinces comprising the Dominion of Canada. It is a vast region. 2 oxtfiidiiiR from tlic 40tli imiiiUcl of lutituiU' more than 700 luilt's north to the (JOtli, aiul from the (livi(h' of the llocky Mouiitiiins on the East, 400 miles West to the Pacitic, con- taining IJil,")!") square miles, or 218,-4;{5,200 aereH, a country nearly three timoH as laige as England, Ire- land, Heotlaud and Wales eombiued. It is traversed lengthwise hy two great niouniain I'anges, the lloekies and the Cascades, about 250 miles apart, the former reaching an elevation of 9,000 and the latter of 0,000 feet- The Coluhil)ia and the Eraser, the second and third largest rivers on tln' Pacitie Coast, rise within the Province, and Avith the Hkcena, Nass, Stickeen and innumerable other streams drain its western slo[)e. The interior is well watered by numerous rivers and cn-eks, and thousands of lakes and Bjn'ings. Parallel to the mainland, and at a distance of from three to twenty miles therefrom, extends ^anctmver Island for over 250 miles. The shores of the mainland and of Vancou- ver, and the intca'vening Avaters, enibrace the most wonderful colhnition of inlets, sounds, har])ors, straits, channels and islands, to be found upon the planet. British Columbia, in common with the whole Pacitic Coast, possesse.s, two distinct climates. Along the west coast, even as far north as latitude fifty-three degr(>es, the mean winter temperature is about forty-two degrees; the annual rai'"+''ll aA'eraging from forty- five inches at Victoria to sevent-five inches, at Eort Simpson 6;J0 miles North. In the interior the climate is much drier, the entire precipitation ranging from ten to twenty inches; the mean summer temperature being about seventy- five deg. and the winter teu deg. above. North of latitude fifty-one the winters are severe, but the snowfall moder- ate except in the higher altidudes. This section is not sub- ject to the terrible blizzards which prevail east of the llocky Mountains, the coldest Aveather usually being perfectly calm and clear. Though mountains and forests cover a. consider- able portion of its surface, there are very extensive areas excellently adajited to stock-raising and agriculture. The gieat natural resources of the Province are minerals, coal, fish, timber, grazing and furs. Although there are millions of acres as yet untouched by human foot, the discoveries of Lake and th( Williai the wo yieldin IBntclK 432, tl deanecl of gol(| beds oi There [ awaitiil their of moi greatel The ill $1,00C formed liiii 700 Jiocky IC, COD- crcH, a 11(1, Iit'- |-ilV(!l'SO(l ll()fki(!H forincM' 000 fret- lillf^OSt (•(', iiiul I! other 1 ^vat^n•t'(l iikt's and I' of from [slaiid for A'^ancoii- wonderful iiiiels aud uiiibia, in fo distinct IS latitude I is about om forty- ; Simpson is much to twenty ,t scventy- f latitude dl moder- 1 not sub- the Bocky ectly calm ii consider- iive areas ire. The ^rals, coal, ;-e millions ioveries of 8 vahiabh' luiiural ch-posits already made au- immense. Her gold fields are among the* most (fxtcnsive and ricluist in the world ; coal underlies huiKlrinls of th(jiisands of acres; there are niouiitaiii musses and islfinds of iron, and rich mines of silver, c()])j)er and other precious metals. The Great Gold Fields of British Columbia Embrace in area more than 100,000 s(piare miles, extendiii<4 from lloek Creek, near the 4'.)th parallel, to Liard Hiver on the GOth. On the Similkameen and Kootenay, at Hope, Yale, Bo.stoii Bar, Lillooet, and Bridjj^e Bivers; in tlu! Bi^f Bend of the Columbia, at Quesiielh', Keithley, Harvey, Cariboo, and Omineca ; on the Peact', Skeeiia, Naas, and Stickeeii Bivers; and, lastly, at Cassiar, gold has been found not only ui paying cpiantities, but in many places liy the millions, their aggregate products amounting to about fifty niilliou dollars. The Cariboo Gold District, Lying between 52 and 54 degi-ees of north latitude, embracers an area of upwards of 700 squan; miles. The Quesnelle Lake and Biver form its south and south- western bcmndary, and the Eraser north -eastern, western and northern. Here AVillianis, Lightning, and Antler creeks and gulches startled the world b}' their amazing richness, the Wake-up-Jake claim yielding 150 ounces in a single day, the Caledonia 300 ounces* Butcher 350, Steele's 40!), the Chittenden claim on Lowhee 432, the Ericsson 500 ounces, when the Diller claim cleaned up with the astonishing amount of 102 pounds of gold! These wonderful deposits have been found in the beds of the water courses, from (50 to 80 feet below the surface. There are also extensive lodes of rich gold-bearing quartz awaiting d(!velopment. Though tlie mines of Cariboo reached their maximum product $3,735,850 in 1804, it is the opinion of most old miners who have had experienc*! there, that still greater wealth lies hidden in her mountains and water courses. The annual yield of the district now ranges from $700,000 to $1,000,000. Mr. John Bowron, the Gold Commissioner, in- formed me on my recent visit to Barkerville, that prosptHitors sent out by th« Governraont liail jiist returned, and reported havir g found good surface diggings and extensive ledges of rich quart/i rock. The completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway will greatly reduce the hitherto ouormouB cost ol con- ducting mining operations here, and greatly facilitate the development of the vast gold deposits of this region. The Gold Fields of Cassiar, Next in importance, extend over more than 250 square miles of country lying between the 54th and 60th degrees of north latitude, along the north-eastern watershed of the gold range. Gold was first found in this section in 1872-3, near the con- fluence of the Liard with the Mackenzie River, i..> iuost productive mines being on Doase, Thiber* and McDames Creeks, tributaries of the Deape River. Several millions were taken out along those streams during the two or three succeeding years. Their product for the year 1881 is esti- mated at one hundred and ninety-eight thou.sand dollars, and the number of miners engaged at 300, most of whom go south to winter. Interviews with Mr. Rufus Sylvester, the well- known explorer and trader, Mr. John Grant, M.P.P. for Cas- siar District, and Mr. W. V. Brown, one of the pioneer miners, who has spent several years in this portion of the Province, indicate that the richest gold deposits of Cassiar are yet to be discovered. The Omineca Gold Mines. Are also situated on the north-eastern slope of tl>e gold range of the Province, near the 53rd parallel of latitude, upon the tributaries of the Omineca, a branch of the Peace River. There are about seventy men working claims here upon Vitell's, Manson, and Germansen creeks, taking out about $35,000 annually. Other Golc Fields. Gold is found in paying quantities upon many of the streams of tho south-eastern portion of the Province, especi- ally in the Big Bend of the Columbia, and in the Kootenay reported lodgoH of Pacific Ht ot con- itutu the laro inileH f north 1 range. th(» con- ,--. inost DklcDameH millions or three n is esti- tllars, and 1 go south the well- ?. for eas- ier miners, Province, 3 yet to be gold range upon the iice River, lere upon out about uy of the ce, especi- Kootenay country, the claims on Perry and Wild Horse creeks being the most productive. In 1852 the Hudson Bay Company discov- ered gold bearing quartz of remarkable richness on the west shore of Queen Charlotte Island. Gold has also been found on the head waters of the Leech River and other streams along the west coast of Vancouver. Silver, Copper and Iron, Are known to be widely distnij,' d throughout the Province. Pieces of pure silver have been li ^und from time to time in many of the mining camps alo-g the Fraser, also on Cherry Creek in the Okanagan d'' t ct, ai 1 at Omiiuca. In 1871 a rich vein of silver was discovered near Hope, on the Fraser River unu traced for jiearly halt ; mile. There are deposits of co^iper ore upon Howe S-imd, Knights and Jervis Inlets, the Queeu Charlotte Islards, and at other pointS, the former said to be quite extensive. There are inexhaustible quantities ofijron on Texada Island, situated in the linlf of Georgia, about 100 miles north of the City of Victoria, ai;tnidst the great ooal beds, timber supphes, and limestone quarries of the Province. The Coal Fields of British Columbia, On Vancouver Island alone, comprise many hundred thou- sand acres, lying mainly along the East Coast of the Island between Nanaimo and Fort Rupert. The Nana- imo coal lands embrace about ninety square miles, and those of Comox upwards of 300. There are also extensive bodies of coal on Quatsino Sound on the North-west coast of Van- couver, about 250 miles North-west of Victoria, and large veins are reported to have been discovered on the Queen Charlotte Islands. These coals are chiefly bituminous, of the cretaceous era and superior for general and domestic pur- poses to any other found on the Pacific Coast. The Tiviber Resources of the Province, Are very extensive, embracing many hundred thousand acres of Douglas fir Ipng in the West Cascade region, the choicest l)otlies upon BniTiinl mid Jervis Inlets, Mud Buy, How» Sound, and the east coast of Vancouver Island. It attain.^ an enormous growth, and being straight and exceedingly tough and durable is in great demand the world over for ship spars and tind.)ers. Ov(!r thirty million ft;et are niannfac!- tured into lumber annually, ehietlj' for exportation to Asiatic, Australian, and South American ports. The pinii and spruce of the interior, though luuch inferior in size aiul quality to the fir of i;lie coast, is sufficient in both and also in quantity for all local purjjoses. Fish. . , . The waters of British Columbia teem with countless mil- lions of the choicest salmon, halibut, cod, herring, smelt, sturgeon, wljiting, &c., &v. The canning oi .-ialmon forexpin-- tation is already a veiy important industry, the product for " the present season amounting to about 177,000 cases. They also constitute the chief food dependence of the Indian popu- lation. Oil is manufactured from dog tish, herrings, and oolachans, but the other fish mentioned are as yet, exccspt to a limited extent, only caught for home consumption. Fur-bearing Animals ' Are more numerous in this Province than in any other part of America, excejiting, perhaps, portions of Alaska, having for neai-ly 40 years through the Hudson Bay Comjiany supplied the world with most of their finest furs. Tlu^y comjnise Bears, Beaver, Badgers, Coyotes, Foxes, Fishers, Martens, Minks, Lynxes, Otters, Panthers, Raccoons, Wolves. Wol- verines, and other smaller kinds. The product of the fisheries Hiid furs of the Province amoxints to nearly a million and a half dollars annually. S>tock Raising in British Columbia. British Columbia contains a very extensive area of grazing lands of unsurpassed excellence. The whole inter- llocky Mountain Cascade Region is specially adapted for pastoral purposes. Dui'ing my recent travels through the interior of D , Howe attain, s seedinglj' for ship iiauufac!- ) Asiatic, d spruce lualitv to quiintity ;loss iiiil- S, smelt, for expor- ixluct for ' s. They iau popu- ings, and except to ler par tof laving for • snj)plied comprise Martens, Ives, Wol- le fisheries lioa and a of grazing iter-ll< )('ky [• pastoral interior of the Province, I traversed hundreds of thousands of acres in the Nicola, Kamloops and Okanagan Valleys and Lake La Hache ctmntry, covered witli a luxuriant growth f)f the nutri- citnis bunch grass, and saw bands oi thousands of cattle rolling fat; and wa}' to the northward in the Chilcotin, Ne- chaco, Wastonquah and Peace River Valleys, are vast ranges, hundreds of miles in extent as yet almost untouched. Inter- views with all the })rincipal stock-raisers and dealers in British Columbia confirms my own observations that cattle raised upon the bunch grass of this region are among the finest in the world, ver}' large and fat, and the choicest of beeves. Mr. B. Van Volkeuburgh, the leading butcher in the Province, meat purvey- or to Her Majesty's Navy, the owner of 7000 acres of grazing lands, and several thousand head of cattle and sheep; Mr. Thad- (hnis Harper whost; 3,000 or 4,000 head of cattle and horses ranges upon his own estate of '25,000 acires, Mr. J. B. Graves at y)reseut the largest owner of fat cattle, 8,000 head, includ- ing 0,000 st(>ers, Mr. C. M. Beak, of the Nicola Valley, who had just s()l<l 1,:50() for $28,000 and been offered $27,000 for the balance of his herd, Autoine Menal)erriet, of Cache Creek, Victor Guillaume, W. J. Roper, Hugh Morton, M. Sullivan, Wm. Jones, John Pringle, John Pet<!rson and W. J. Howe, of Kamloops, Wm. Fortune, of Trampxille, A. L. Fortune, James T. Steel, Cornelius 0'Keefi\ (ireenhow, Postill and Eli L(!4uime, of Okanagan, and John CIaj)perton, Alexander Coutlie, A. VanV()lkenl)urgh, Jolm Gilmore, John Hamilton, and Guichon of Nicola, Patrick Killroy, of Lvtt(m, and others, togeth(!r the owners of three quarters t)f the sixty or sixty-five thousand head of cattle in the Province, agree that stock does exceedingly well in this region, ine-reases at the rate of thirty per ci'nt. by the herd, or ninety ])er cent, for those breeding; is free from disease, and subject to less loss from occasionid severe winters, than from drouth on the Soutlunn coast. Fat cattle are now in active demand, at from twenty to twenty-five dollars for two-yiMr old, and from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars for threi-yijar old steers, herds selling at from fift(>en to twenty dollars per lu!a.d. The average wtMglit of catths upon tlie ranges is 550 for two-year old, 075 for three-year old, and 800 for fcmryear old cattle. 8 Thev feed in the, ('lovatcd valleys during tlio suminor, and in winter on tlio shcltcriHl sunny slopes and bottoms, ki.'eping in good condition upon a species of white sage, called worm- wood, wliicli succeeds tlio l)uncli grass, wlieri^ the latter is too closely grazed. Mr. Van Volkenlmrgh lias had over 1000 tons of hay stacktnl up for over three years, having had no occa- sion to feed it. Tlii-ee wint(>rs in twenty, cattle have died from starvatioji and ex])()sure occasioned by (h^eji snows covering the feed. Such losses are confined mainly to brei;(hng cows, in the spring of the year, for which most prudt^nt stock-raisei-s now [irovide a reserve of hay. The steers seldom su(H'unib> cixcept in extraordinarj' winters, su(!h as that of 1879-80, many of them keeping fat in the mountains the year round. The winter ranges throughout the Province are generally full3^ stocked, but hay for the Avinter feeding re(piired in the northern part may be cut in unlimited quantities. The Agricultural Lands of British Columbia Comprise in tli(> aggregate several million acr'3S, only a small portitm of which are at present occupied. Vaiutouver Island alone is estimated to contain over 1500,000 acres, — 100,000 in the vicinity of Victoria, ()4,000 in North and South Saanich, 100.000 in the Cowichan district, 4r),000 near Nanaimo, 5,000 (Ui Salt Spring Island, 50,000 in the Comox district, and 3,500 acres near Sooke. Ah>ng the lower Fraser, including the delta, there are about 175,000 acres of unsur[)asst!d fertility- Then^ is a large tract of open arable laud on the (^iieen Char- lotte Islands without a white settler. In the Lillooet, Cache Creek, Kamloo])s, Spallumcheen, Salmoii River, Okanagan, Grand Prairie s('ctions tlier(t are large amounts of excellent farm- ing lauds ; and in the Lake La Hache, upper Fraser, Cliilic( )tin, and Peace lliv(>r countries, vast bodies, hundreds of miles in extent, awaiting setthiment. They alford the greatest choice of situation with r^'ferencc to climate and j)roductions. Here- tofore, there has been but little encourageineiit for agricul- turists in the interior, but tiie com[)letion of the Canadian Pacific llailway, will give them an excellt>)it market on the seaboard for all tlieii' surplus grain, potatoes, Ac. Tlie great- 9i Comi Jl s undt quest and reco 3r( reco and or a^ this Al moil tiie pay expi (I r, find in H'pinjj; in wonii- X'V is too 000 tons no occii- 11 tiirvation u' feed. in tlie sem now swc'unibj f 1879-80, 'iiv round. rully fully . I'd in the Dlumbia ily a small iver Island -100,000 ill th Saauich, limo, 5,000 , and 8,500 ludin<:^ tlio ",d fertility- iiecn Cliar- )oct, Cache Okanaj^an, I'Uentfavni- , Chilicotin, :)f mdes in test elioico )ns. Here- for a^ricul- ' Canadian ket on tlui Tlie great- 9 uesa, character, and diversity of the natural resourccss of the Province, will ultimately em])loy a laige populati(jn in their deveh)pnient and utilization, creating a great demand at good prices for all kinds of farm produce. The Provincial Land Laws Provide that any person being the head of a family, a widow, or single man over the age oi 18 years and a Bi'itish subject, or any alien upon declaring his inteuti(m to become a British subject, may reccjrd any tract of unoccupied, uusurveyed and unreserved Crown Lands, not exceeding 820 acres, north and east of the Cascade or Coast Ilangci of Mountains, and 1(50 acres iu the rest of the Province, and " pre-cnupt" or " home- stead"' the same, and obtain a litle therefor upon paying the sum of $1 per acre in four ecpial annual instalments, the first oiH! year from the date of record. Persons desiring to accpiire land under tliis law must observe the following re(|uirenients : 1st. The land apj)litHl for must b(i staked off with posts at each corner not less than four inches square, and five feet above tlie ground, and marked in tbrin as follows: (A B"s ) Land, N. E. ])ost. (A B's) Land, N. W. post, Ac. '2nd. Applications must be made in writing to the Land Commissioner, givuig a full des{;ription of the land, and also a sketch ])lan thereof, both in (bii)licate, and a declaration under oath, made and filed in du])licate, that the land in question is pioperly subji'ct to si-ttlement by the applicant, and that he or she is duly (jualified to record tlie same, and a recording fee of $'2 ])aid. 8rd. Such homestead settler must within ■']() days after record enter into actual occupation of the land so pre-enq)ted, and continuously reside thereon personally or by his family or agent, and neither Indians or Chinamen can be agents for til is purpose. Abstuice from such land for a ]ierio<l of more than two months coutiniKmsly or four months in the aggregate during tiie year, subjects it to forfeituri' to the Government. Upcm payment for *^he land as specified, and a survey thereof at the (expense of the settler, a Crown grant foi' the same will issue, 10 proWtlod that in the case of an alien he must first become a naturalized Bidtish subject before receiving title. Homesteads upon surveyed lands may be acquired, of the same extent and in the same manner as upon the unsurveyed, except that the apjilicant is not required to stake off and file a plat of the ti'act desired. Unsurveyed, unoccupied, and imreserved Crown lands may be purchased in tracts of not less than 160 lun-es for $1 per acre, cash in full at one payment before receiving title by complying with, the following conditions : — 1st. Two months' notice of intended application to pur- chase must be inserted at the expense of the applicant in the British Columbia Gazette and in any newspaper circulating in the district where the Land desired lies, stating name of applicant, locality, boundaries and extent of land applied for^ which notice must also be posted in a conspicuous place on the land sought to be acquired, and on the Government office^ if any, in the district. The applicant miist also stake off the said land as required in case of pre-emption, and also have the same sm-veyed at his own expense. Surveyed lands, after having been offered for sale at public auction for one dollar per acre, may be purchased for cash at that price. The Mining Laws Provide that ever}' person over sixteen years of age may hold a mining claim, after first obtaining from the Gold Commis- sioner a Free Miner's Certificate or Liconse, at a cost of five dollars for one year and fifteen dohai.-i for three years. Every miner locating a daini must record the same in the office of the Gold Commissioner, for a period of one or more years, paying therefor at the rate of $2.50 per year. Every free miner may hold at the same time any num* ber of claims by purchase, but only two claims by pre-emp- tion in tlie same locality, one mineral claim and one other claim, and sell, mortage, or dispose of the same. The size of claims are as follows : — The bar diggings, a strip of land, 100 feet wide at high- 11 water mark and thence extending into the river to the lowest water level. For dry diggings, 100 feet square. Creek claims shall be 100 feet long measured in the directif)n of the general <!Oiirse of th«>- stream and shall extend in wid h from base to base of the hill, or bench on each side, but when the hills or benches are less than 100 feet apart, the claim shall be 100 feet square. Bench claims shall be 100 feet square. Mineral claims, that is claims containing, or supposed to contain minerals (other than coal) in lodes or veins, shall be 1,500 feet long by 600 feet wide. Discoverers of new mines are allowed 300 feet in length for one discoverer, fiOO feet for two, 800 feet for three, and 1000 in length for a party of four. Creek discovery claims ext(!nd 1000 feet on each side of the centre of the creek or as far as the summit. Coal lands west of the Cascade Range in tracts not less than 160 acres, may be purchased at not less than ten dollars per acre, and similar lands east of the Cascade Bange, at not less than five dollars per acre. The Government and People. British Columbia is governed by a Legislative Assembly of twenty-five members elected by the people every four yt'ars. The Lieut.-Governor and a Council of three Minis- ters constitute the Executive body, Hon. K.ol>ert Beaven, Prem- ier, Chief Commissioner of Lands and Works, Minister of Fin- ance and Agriculture, Hon. J. R. Hett, Attorney General Hon. W. J. Armstrong, Provincial Secretary and Minister of Mines, being its present officers. Political and religioxis free- dom, free public schools, liberal homestead pre-emption and mining privledg(?s, are guaranteed and secured by the laws. Justice is firmly administered, good order prevails, and life and ])roporty are secure throughout the Province. So far as the government is concenied, there has been nothing to remind me that I have crossed the line into the Queen's dominions, excepting the glad demonstrations of welcome accorded the Governor General, the Marquis of Lome and T 12 tlio Qnoon's diuiglitor, Princess Louise. There is the same freedom of opinion, luul oiitspoken criticism of jmblic men and meusur(!s; elections are condiicttsj wit'i the same partisan zeal, and the Press is just as abusive as in the United States. The people generally entertain a very friendly feeling toward the United States. The pcu'traits of George and Martha Washington, Lincoln, Grant, Sheridan, Garfield, and other distinguished Americans, are often seen hanging upon the walls of both public and private houses in all parts of the Province, together with those of members of the Royal family. Tht; populiition is quite cosmopolitan and liberal in then' views-. Stopj)ing at au inn in the interior recently, it was found that eacli of the st!vcn white persons present, represented a diflierent nationality. The popular feeling is strongly opposed to Chinese immigration, the present Provin- cial Government refusing to employ any Chinamen upon the public works. The Indian Nations of British Columbia Afford a most interi>sting study for the ethnologist. Thcsy are eleven in number evidently of Asiatic <n'igiu, comprising altogether about H5,000 souls, — the T.simp.slu'ean's, (^uacke- weth, and Hydah naticnis being the most popnhms. The Wtwt Vancouver and tlu; Hydah Indians of Qu(?en Charlotte Island were formerly (piite hostile to the whites, having cruelly mur. dered several ship crews cast upon their shon^s ; l)ut throngli the influence of missionary training, several severe chastise- ments by English gunboats, and their hunnuu; liberal t''(>at- meut by the general government, they are noAV quite friendly I have vi.sited most of the principal tribes during tlu* past season, and have always been cordially received in their houses or wigwams. They are generally much inferior both in stature and form to the white race. A few of the Queen Charh)tte Hydahs are fairly good looking, and well formed, though it would require an exceedingly fertile and romantic imagination to discover among tluise people a singles specimen of the l)eauti- fiil Indian maiden, we have all reiid about, l)ut whom so few, t\u) same hublic men |n^ piutisau ted States . jig toward [d Martha and other upon tlie 1.1-t.s of th(; the Rojal ind Hberal •t'cently, it s pr(>sent, feeling is nt Provin- npoi} tljo umbia ,nst. Tliey comprising », (^iack(>- Tlio West 'tte Island •ui.'lly nun-, it through i ehastise- 'val t'-eat- 3 friondiv the past in their itnre and ' Hvdah's it would nation to le beau ti- ll so few, i8 have ever seen. They arcs almost entirely self-suppoiting, dei)ending not ahme upon the wonderful nsh and game sup- plies of tluH region, but in many instances cultivating farms and raising cattle and horses. Large nund)ers an* also em- ployed by the salmon fisheries and canneries, lumber mills, steamboat lintss, and railroad contractors, and are considered sui)eri(>r to Chmese laborers. Mr. Duncan's reniarkal)le work at ]MeHakatlali, where ho ii us colonized over a thousand of the Tsimpsheans, who now live in good houses, worship in a $10,000 church of their own erection, school tlnur chihiren, operate a salmon cannery, a sawmill, and (sngagc! in other self supporting pursuits, demon- strates the possi])ilities attainable by well directed etibrts for their civilization upon a Christian basis. The Principal Cities, Towns and Settlements in British Columbia Aw. Victoria, Esquimalt, Saanich, Cowichan, Nanairao, Wel- lington, Comox, Fort llupert, and Sook(^, on Vancouver Island , New Westminster, Port Moody, Moodyville, Hast- ings, Granville, Langley, Sumass, Chilliwhack, Hojie, Emory, Yale, Lytton, Lillooet, Cache Creek, Cook's Feri-y, Clinton, Lake La Hache, Soda Creek, Qucsnelle, Stanley, Barkervillo, Savona's Ferry, Kamloops, Trvnouille, Grand Prairie, Sal- mcm Kiver, Spallnmcheen, ()k,.nagan, Mission, Cherry Creek Similkanieen, P(n"t Essington, llivers' Inlet, Metlakathla, Tort Simpson, and Cassiar, on the Mainland, containing alto- gether about fifty thousand inhabitants. Victoria, The chief city and capital of British Columbia, occupies a magnificent sitnati(ni on the scmth shore of Vanc(mver Island, about no miles from the Pacific, and 750 north of San Francisco. Its immediate surroundings arc^ charmingly ])ictures(jue, em- bracing a bt'autifnl harbor and inlet, ])in(' and oak covertnl shores and rolling hills, with green forests of fir and pine clad mountains in the near back ground. The distant view is one of exceeding grandeur, c<):nprising the loftiest peaks of the 14 Olympic {.nd Cawcado Mountains. A person nnfaniiliar with the marvelous prof^ress ot civilization in the new world sur- veying its busy marts of trade, ships of commerce laden with exports for the most distant ports, numerous manufacturing in- dustries, well graded streets, and good public and private build- ings, would scarcely believe that all these things are the crea- tion of a little more than twenty years, and that only a gener- ation has passed since the Hudson Bay Company lirst planted the English flag on these shores. But this is only the begin ning as compared with the brilliant future which awaits Vic- toria. The resources of the vast region to which she holds the commercial key are only in the bud of their development. That she has reached her present status while laboring under the gi-eat disadvantages of extreme remoteness from the centres of population and demands for her products exces- sively costly transportation, shows not only their enormous extent and richness, but what may reasonab'v l.'- »,.vpected when all railway commimication shall be established with the East and the coxuitry opened to immigration and capital. Victoria is i)rovided with all the concomitants of the pro- gi-essive cities of our times — good religious and educational advantages, three newsiiapers, the Cohmht, Standard and Evening Post, a i^ublic library, and the usual benevolent orders, an able and active Board of Trade, gas and water works, efiicient police and fire departments, a beautifid public park, and a well ordered government. Victoria as a Summer Resort for Tourists and Health Seekers. Nature has awarded to Victoria, the most attractive and interesting situation and surromidings, of any city on the north Pacific Coast. Possessing a most enjoyable, invigorating anil healthful climate, she lies central amidst the sublimest scenery in the new world. The waters of Puget Sound and of the Inside Passage to Alaska, between Vancouver and the Mainland, embraces more that is unique and wonderful in nature, than can be found on any equal area of the earth's surface. I can scarcely conceive of a gi-ander panorama of 15 iliar with voihl Hiir- aden with Lftuiing in- ate build- the crea- y a fjoner- 4 phmtod he begin vaits Vic- she holds rihjpment. ing under from the Cits exces- enormous < -vpecteil witli th(i )ital. 1 the pro- kicational lard and enevoleut md water fill pubHc 3ts and tive and the north iting find ml)hniest luid and • and the lerfiil in i earth's )rama of nionntains and inhind waters, forests and islands, than that afforded from the summit of Beacon Hill, her favorite Park resort. Her drives are unsurpassed, both in respect ti» the excellence! of the roads, and the beauty of the scenery through which they pass. Tin; three mil(!s from Yi(!toria to the tine harbor of Esquimalt, with its pretty village, off" lying fleet of ships. Graving Dock, kv., is a delightful drive or walk; so is the one to the Gorge, a picturesque romanti(! spot, situ- ated about the same distance from the City. It may al.,o be visited by a small boat through a charming inlet extending from Victoria almost to E^^luimalt. To C'adboro Bay, re- turning by the Government House, l{act> Course, and Beacon Hill, a distance of about eight miles, affords a splendid excursion. Excellent macadamized roads lead from thrtse to twenty miles into the country in all directicms. Victoria is central in one of the be.st fields for hunting and fishing of which I have any knowledge. Deer and other large game abound on Vancouver Island, and within a short distance of the city. All kinds of watt'r fowl are numerous, and the streams and lakes are full of trout. It is only a few hours vide by steamer amidst magnificent scenery to the most im- portant places in the Province, New Westminster, Port Moody and Nanaimo — and to the principal towns of Puget Sound — Port Townsend, Seattle, Tacoma and Olympia- Steamers also rim among the beautiful islands of the Archi- pelago De Haro, and of the San Juan gi'oup, touching at their chief points of interest. Upon the comi)letion of the Cana- dian Pacific and Northern Pacific Railways, Victt)ria will be thronged with tourists and health-seekers, from all parts of East, and should lose no time in providing hotel accommoda- tions in keeping with her other un])aralled attractions. MRS. R. MAYNfARD^ Photographic Artist _^«>J'^j^-^^i<X Dealer in All Kinds Photographic Materials €^JI?BKiyj>!%J I'icics (/ rictorla anil liriti.sli Cohiinbki For Safe. DOUGLAS ST., VICTORIA, B. C. MANUKACTUREll AND PKAl.KR IN BOOTS and SHOBS -r^ip^ _ L h'A THER AND SHO E FINDINGS vil SEWING MACHINES t^^^'^ \ o (: Cor, Johnson and Douglas Sts., Victoria, B. C. Cash Price pnid for Hides. <^//r/// (iiHiil Fishiiii/, /iiiiitiiiy iiHtl lluntinji on the Pri'tiiimH. Ttro-<in<l-ii-kalf milex from Vlctorid, on Siidiiich ItooiL WM. II. LEWrs, PROl'JilETOn. FELL & COMPANY, lni|ii>r(('r!< iiiiil DciiIci'h in Groceries, Provisions, Fruit, Etc. COFFEE AND SPICL MILLS, GENERAL FFAL- LIN WAREHOUSEMEN. FORT STREET, - VICTORIA, B. O. All Hlii|)piiij,' Orders Completely mid Promptly Filled and Delivered l)er Express Van Free of Charge. ALWAYS ASK FOR FELL'S COFFEE AT THE MINES. Ml Has Theal E RealE Con^ Hoard o! ] Office ( TelephoE Real L E.J.J Joh Impor Glasi India VICTORIA ADVERTISEMENTS. nsT c Materials C<)hniilti(( , B. C. fNDJNGS INES turia, B. C. es. ></ r/// r // ul-ii-ludf milen 'TETOH. t, Etc. L ITAL- B. C. iiul Delivered 1 MINES. ' A. 8IUI0EE, MERCHANT TAILOR Johnson Street, Victoria, B. C. Has on Hand a Lart^e Stock of Goods, consistin<r of Clothint^, Furnishing Goods, Hats, Caps, Boots and Shoes, Htc. The above Goods will lie sold ut GREATLY REDUCED PRICES. Also, Garments Made to order. BDGAR GROW BAKER^ Real Estate and Commission Agent, Notary Public and Conveyancer, Master Mariner and Marine Surveyor. Seuretaby to tub Board of Pilot Commissioners. Board of Trade. Howe Mining; Co., Limited. Art Union of London. Victoria-Esqiiimalt Telephone Company Office on Langley St., First floor. Far don's Buildg Office Hours : 9 a. M. to 6 p. m. Telephone Call, .37. Residence, 8. ALLSOP & MASON, Real Estate Agents and Conveyancers LOANS NEGOTIATED. VICTORIA, B. C. E. J. SALMON k CO. Johnson_St., Victoria. Importers of Furniture, Glassivare, Crockery &c. Indian Curiosities ! IN VABIETY. Vice-Regal IVIovements. Victoria Evening Post, Oct. i/h, 1882. Yesterday afternoon. Her Royal HiRhnpsH, nccompanied by Miss Hnrrey, MiHs McNeil, Dr. Bumi't and otliera, stroUml thniuRh the principal Htreot» and Ti8it<><l tho liondon Hazur, 8. L. KcUey'g and K. J. Balnion's, Juhnson street. .\t the InHt mentioned place. Her Hoyal HiijhnesB spent nearly halr-an-hour ez- amininu the nnmeroua Indian cnrioH, the use and manufacture ot which were de- scribed by Mr. Salmon. -The Princess seemed to take great interest in tho na- tive bead work, mats, painted figures, etc., and before leaving, made many pur- chased. VICTOUIA ADVEllTIHKMENTH. HENRY SHORT, Miiiiufiirturor ami liiiiiorti'i- i)f Guns, Rifles and Pistols IMl'OHTKll OK FiHliing Tackles Powder, Shot, Ciioh, CiirtriilgoH, Pocrkot, Hporting und Tiililis Cutlciy, Electro I'liitc, Opei'a (UaHses, Gun Tuckle, Etc., Etc. FOKT STREET, VICTORIA. THE INDIAN BAZAR C . Oriental Alley and Johnson Sts. INDIAN curios; FANCY GOODS FURS, liOllKS, lilFLES J AD S OTGUNS, AAD MKKIiSCHA II M PI I ' KS, S UI TA B L E F li H OLID A Y P li E S E N T S . J. IHAACS & CO., Proprs. J. J. HAIIT, liupt. Belxnoiit Tanning AND Boot and Shoe Manufacturing Co., ( XjXIVKXT'XIX} ) Wholesale and Retail Dealers. General Samuel Clay' p,^^j^| Feed Tea Dealer, Oi. I Family Groceries , Produce Cor. Johnson and Douglas Sts. VICTOUfA ADVKKTIHKMKNTH. tols L'ookot, )cra 'ORIA. iil OODS UNS, u:nt8. )t. g Co., irs. 8*37. arm oduce J. GJJTTttAN, Commission Merchant, AND IMPORTER, DEALER /A IM)TAN CURIOS, GUNS, RIFLES AND SPORTING GOODS GENERALLY. JOHNSON STREET, NEAR STORE, VICTORIA. J. & A. BOSKOWITZ, Raiv Furs i£ Deer Skins JOHNSON STREET, NEAR WHARF, VICTOUIA, n. 0. FRANK CAiaPBrnjiIii, TOBACCONIST, ADELI'HI CORNER, IK 'TOR I A, B. C. W. J. Jkffhkk, Clothier aiul Outtitter, Gov(irnmi'nt istnset. J. Wkn(}EU, Wiitcliiuiikfr and Jrwolcr, (iovcnimt'iit street. The Factohy Stoke, S.H.CJlover, Proju-iotor. Agent Scotland AVoolen Mills. Govi'rnnient street. W. AlXEN, Fruits, Fish, Game, etc. Governiuent street. Geouoe Vienna, Game, Fish, Frnit, etc. Government street Colonial Hotel, Johnson street. M. N. Bechtel, Propr. ESQUIMALT AND VICTOUIA HUBUllBAN ADVERTISEMENTS. HOWARD UOTKIm, EsQUIMiVLT, B. C. JOHN T. HOWARD, Proprietor; also. Post innster. CABRIA.GE AND SADDLE HORSES FOR HIRE. ORDEl;S FROM SHIPPING PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO. B@°- BILLIARDS. ________ EsQuiMALT Hotel, Joh. Miller, Proprietor. Gloije Hotel, Esiiuimalt, W. X. Selleck, Proprietor. Gouge Hotel, J. D. J(jhns(jn, Proprietor. Royal Oak Hotel, Saanich Road, Camp & Son, Proprietors. Mt. Newton Hotel, W Saanich rd. Wm. Henderson, Prop. VTCTOEIA ADVyHTISEMENTS, Neufelder & Ross, Importers and Dealers in Groceries, Provisions and Island Produce GOVERNMENT STREET, ViCTORU, B. C. THOS. SHOTBOLT. WHOLESAIiE AND RETAIL Chemist and Druggist Importer of English, American and French Drugs, Chemicals and Perfumery. JOHNSON STREET, - - - VICTORIA, B. G. TiSTABLISHED 1864. ■JNT, FORT STREET, VICTORIA, B. G. Importers and Dealers in Gas Fixtures and Plumbing Mateiials. o o ►-r-^ GTQ sa^oxT-^ss CLX1.CL FL-ii-r^osssi Keep in stock the Best and Oheapest Assortment of Gas Fixtures north of San Francisco. oduce Travels in British Columbia BY BSt rugs, , B. C. >:jNr, :jiials. ►'— f H NEWTON H. CHITTENDEN. TRIP NUMBER ONE. From Victoria to Yale, the head of navigation on the Frnser River, tcith Capt. John Irving, on the steamer li. P. Bithet. Through the Archipelago De Haro, Plumper Pass, Gulf of Georgia, and South Arm of Fraser Itiver. 3[agnifcent scenery, salmon fisheries and canneries, rich delta and bottom lands. The toums of Ladner's Landing, New Westminster, Mission, Maple Ridge, Langley, Matsqui Sumas, Chilli whack, Harrison River, Hope, Emory, and Yale—S50 miles. B Fixtures Yale, B. C, 14tli Aiignst, 1882. Victoria, the beautiful capital city of the Province, is the heachpiarters and starting point of all the princijial steamboat and other lines of transportation through it. Of these, the Pioneer line of steamers to the head of navigation on the Fraser River, is one of the most important. It comprises thr(>e boats, the Wm. Irving, II. P. Ilithet and Heliance, ()\vn(Hl by Capt. John Irving and others, which run in ccm- junction' with the Hudson Bay steamers Princess Louis(>, Enterimse and Otter. I took passage on the II. P. Ivitliet, r'apt. John Irving, one of th(> lin»"st boats ui)on the waters of the North-West Coast. She is a new, powerful sten'-wheeler, 200 feet long, 39 feet wide, 81(i tons l)urden, accommodating 18 25G [iiisseugers, and having a s]ieed of 13 miles an hour. Her cabins are elegantly finished and furnished, state-rooms largt^, and table excellent. The usual time to Yale — 175 miles from Victoria — is from 18 to 22 hours on the upward, and twelve hoiu's on the downward trip, the dift'er- ence being occasioned by the sti'ong currents encountered both in the straits and river, in some places from seven to eiglit miles an hour. No passage of equal distance in the world affords a succession of more magnificent natural views. Sailing out of the fine land-locked harbor of Victoria into the Straits of Juan de Fuca, on such a glorioiis day as yester- day, presents a panorama of indescribable beauty and sublimity. The grandest mountains outUne the horizon on every hand — rising 5,000 feet from Vancouver, the snow- covered Olympian Peaks 8,000 feet— and sweeping East and Northward along the rugged Cascades the eye is arrested l)y the white crowning peaks of Mount Bakei", 10,800 feet above the sea. The intervening landscape is exceedingly pictur- esque and charming. Sailing northward, the immediate shores of Vancouver, faced wii;h a sea wall of rounded trappean rock, sparsely wooded with pine and oak, receding gradually, are interspersed with pleasant green slopes and park-like openings. The large, conspicuous mansion situated upon the commanding eminence in the Eastern suburbs of Victoria is the Government House, now occu- pied by His Honor Lieutenant-Governor Cornwall. A few days ago the Governor kindly showed me through the tine grouiuls, which afford a most magnificient view of the incimipiirably gi'and scenery of this region. Looking into Cadboro Bay — three miles from the city opposite the small, rocky islands of Discovery and Chatham, a fine little harbor of refuge— a number of well improved farms are visible. Driven in here l)y a storm in April last, crossing from San Juan Island to Victoria, I was surprised to find vegetation more advanced than in Oregon and Washington, whic I had just left. Several varieties of flowers bloom here through- out the winter. Approaching the entrance to the Canal De Haro, San Juan Island, to the North-East, first engages the attention. It is th Lopez, Henry, width o ; as ( ispi English bounda: of the nent lai •' of the numero Salt S]) Mayne taken Stuart, Pender most ri Portlan reachin Pass. Siindsto lignite, fir and above fall not tmknov mink, i and otl poisoni schoon are sai the sh( ])leasai we see] and, ji twochi tlie rig yards "of G.ui 19 hour. Her stiit(!-ro()in8 Yule— 175 rs un the the difter- jncoimteretl m seven to tance iu the tural views, ictoria into J as yester- beaiity and horizon on the snow- ug East and arrested by feet above igly pictur- diate shores ippean rock, gradually, id park-like uated u])on •n suburbs now occu- iniwall. A through the view of the looking into pposite the , a fine little s are visible, ug from San [ vegetation whii I had ne tlirough- e Haro, San e attention. It is the lai'gest of the San Juan Group — comprising Orcas, I Lopez, Blakely, Decatur, Waldron, Shaws, Stuart, Speiden, Henry, and others — being thirteen miles long, with an average widUi of about four miles. It accpiired historicid imp(;rtance as I isputed territory, having been jointly occupied by the English anil American forces from 1858 to 1873, when the boundary question was finall}' settled. The white faced clitl's of the extensive limestime quarry ot McCurdy's is a promi- nent landmark on its Southern slope. Lying to the Westward of the group, and comprising the Archipelago De Haro, are numerous Islands belonging to British Columl)ia. Of these. Salt Spring, Galiano, Saturna, Pender, Sidney, Moresby, and Mayne are the most important. The main channel, usuallj- taken by deep draiight vessels, runs between San Juan, Stuart, and Waldron on the East, find Sidney, Moresliy, Pender, and Saturna on the West ; but our route, that of most river steamers, lay between Sidney, James, Moresby, Portland, Pender, Provost, Mayne, and Galiano Islands, reaching the Gulf of Georgia through Active (u- Plunq)er Pass. Thest! islands are uniformly rock-bound, with basalt, sandstone, and ccmglonuirate formations, interspersed with lignite, rugged and irregular iu (mtline, thickly wooded with fir and s])ruce, and rising from five to fifteen hundred feet above the sea. Their climate is healthy and uniform, rain- fall not excessive, and great extremes of cold or heat are uiikncnvn. The forests abound with deer, otter, coon, and mink, and the surnmnding wat(>rs with salmon, halibut, cod, and other excellent fish. There art^ no beasts of prey, or jioisonous reptiles. Ap])roaching the Pass a steam sealing schooner and three large Chinook canoes, filled with Indians, are sailing northward. Their huts are occasionalh' se(Ui ujjon the sho)'es. A (;onsideral)le settkaiH>nt of whitt's occupy a ])leasant green slo])e on Vancouver Island at Cowichan. Tlien we seem to be advanciiig against a mountain wall of solid rock, and, just as we aic wondering most wliei'e we can be going, two channels suddenly a])pear — the left leading on to Nanainio, tlie right Plumi)er Pass — not exceeding two or three hundred yards wide in ])laces, and abouf two miles h)ng, to the (lulf of Georgia. Now we head for tli(> Delta of the Eraser River, 20 visible in the distance. The Gulf of Georgia is from nine to twenty miles in width, and one hundred and twenty miles in length. When opposite Point Roberts, the boundary' hne between British Columbia and the United States, a wide pathway cut through the timber, entirely across, is plainly seen from the steamer with the naked eye. Just before entering the South Ai-m of the Fraser Kiver we pass the Steamer Beaver, which Capt. Irving says is the oldest on the Pacific coast, having come round the Horn in 1835. She is still doing good service for her owners, the British Columbia Towing Company. The Fraser River. The third largest stream flowing into the Pacific upon the Continent of North America, rising in the Rocky Mountains, drains, with its tribiii-aries, an area estimated at 125,000 square miles, reaching from the hundred and eighteenth to the huncb'ed and twenty-fifth degi'ee of longitude. The inter- vening country embraces the greatest diversity of physical features, climates, soils, natural resources, and adaptations. East of the Cascade Range, mountains, rolling foot hills, and elevated plateaus, covered with bunch grass, sage brush, plains, forest and table lands, with occasional prairie open- ings, are its prevailing characteristics. It is rich in gold and other valuable minerals, contains extensive stock ranges of unsui-passed excellence, and large areas of arable lands ex- cellently adapted to the gi'owth of cereals, roots, and fruits generally. Irrigation is necessary over a considerable portion of this region. The summers are hot, the nights cool and sometimes fi'osfcy in the valleys and in the elevated plateaus ; the winters dry and not unfrequently severe, though the snow fall, except in the mountains, seldom exceeds two feet in depth. Crossing the Cascades its Western slopes, river val- leys, embrace the greatest variety of climates and range of pro- ductions, varying according to altitude and local sui'face con- figurations. Forests of Douglas pine, cedar, spruce, and hemlock cover a considerable portion of this region, though there are extensive bodies of excellent grazing and agricultural land. But no pe'^ora,! description can convey correct impressions concemu oxistmg i guide in Asiatic o^ ; through marked ( globe. I malarial i The jThe delt) of any ot South Ai stretch a Boundar distance Husceptib alluvial plains an for theii dyk'ng t( against li damaginj Wood, c who havt Bay estii and that the aver! their exc ing the R close at tons per for from strong, ] growing three toi and baUi m 21 111 nine to ty miles in lulMrj' line 's, a wide , is plainly ust before pass the lest on the >. She is Columbia ic upon the Mountains, at 125,000 ^hteenth to The inter- 3f physical daptations. )t hills, and lage brush, rairie open- in gold and : ranges of e lands ex- and fruits ible portion B cool and i plateaus; ih the snow wo feet in 3, river val- mge of pro- lurface con- ad hemlock bi there are Itural land, mpressions • n concerning or do justice to this region. The climatic conditions cxistmg in the same latitudes on the Atlantic coast affords no ^nide in judging of those found here The warm Asiatic ocean currents sweeping along the Western coast and tlirough the Gulf of Georgia modifies the temperature in a marked degi-ee. It is one of the healthiest portions of the gloV)e. Even the river bottoms and deltas are free from all malarial fevers. The Rich and Extensive Deltas of the Fraser River. The delta lands of the Fraser are more extensive than those of any other river flowing into the Pacific. Advancing up the South Arm, a broad, rapid, muddy steam, the tide lands stretch away for many miles on either hand, extending from Boundary Bay on the East to Point Gray on the West, a distance of thirteen miles, embracing over 100,000 acres susceptible of cultivation. Enriched by the silt and alluvial deposits of ages, brought down from the plains and mountain slopes of the interior, they are famous for their inexhaustible fertility. They generally require dykmg to the height of three or four feet, for protection against high tides, though escaping, almost altogether, any damaging effects from the spring floods. Messrs. Turner & Wood, civil engineers and sm'veyors, at New Westminster, who have recently examined a tract of 4,500 acres near Mud Bay estimate that it can be reclaimed in a body for $8000, and that from two to four dollars per acre will securely dyke the average Fraser delta land. Every one bears testimony to their exceeding fertility and durability. At Ladner's Land- ing the Rithet took on board a quantity of excellent hay, grown close at hand. The young man shipping it said that three tons per acre was the average yield, and that it sells readily for from twelve to sixteen dollars per ton. Hon. W. J. Arm- strong, M. P. P., informs me that he saw a field which, after growing timothy ten or eleven years in succession, produced three tons per acre. He estimates the cost of cutting, curing, and baling at not exceeding four dollars por ton. These delta 22 laiuls are also well adapted to oats, barley, and roots general- ly. They are offered in tracts to suit at from ten to twenty doUai's per acre, and are being rapidly reclaimed and im- proved. Mr. E. A. Wadhams and Mr. Adair have each dyked over 1,200-acre tracts, and at Ladner's Landing tliere is a prosperous settlement of farmers and stock raisers upon smaller tracts. The Salmon Fisheries and Canneries. Altlumgh salmon fishing and canning has been an important industry on the Pacific const since 1866, and during the last twt' e years has grown to immense proportions — a single firm(m the Columbia Iliver (Kinney's) canning fifty thousand cases during the season of 1881 — it is only a f(!W years since the establishment, by Eweu it Co., of the first cannery on the Fraser. Now there are thirteen — the Phoenix, English tt Co., British American Packing Co., British Union, Adair it Co., Delta, Findlay, Durham <fe Brodie, British Columbia Packing Co., Ewen & Co., Laidlaw & Co., Standard Co., Haigh it Son, and the Richmond Packing Co., their aggregate product during the present season amounting to not less than 230,000 cases. The fish of Northern waters are of superior quality, and their ranges for hatching and feeding so extensive and excellent that the salmon, especially if protected by the Gov- ernment, will con;?titute one of the great permanent resources of this region. Before pnjceeding far up the Fi'aser we meet the advance of the iiumerous fleet of salmon fishing boats which thi'ong the river for a distance of fifteen miles from its mouth. They are from twenty-two to twenty-four feet in length, and from five to six feet wide, each furnished with a gill net, made of strong linen, from one hundred and fifty to two luindred fathoms long, and about forty half- inch meshes deep, and manned by two Indians. The steamer stop])ing to discharge and receive freight at a small settlement on the left bank, at Ladner's Landing, consisting of the Delta salmon fishery and cannery and McNeely and Buie's store and hotel, afforded an opportunity to visit [The larg )nly five tliat it !hinese, part of t and four stories ] furnislie( boiler si tanks, tv soldering for the ri ations nt the prep men, unc employe( fish, recfc the latte: to three twelve o; extraord single da managin the last cases, oi immen8( number same pi salmon. The coE pool thr Proceec The pri: the Cro' iug situ 23 ots generiil- [•n to twenty led ami iin- Oiicli dyked ff there is a •aisers upon eries. m important rinfj; tlie last ns — a single fty thousand V years since rinery on the Inglishct Co., Adair <S: Co., djia Packing Jaigh Sc Son, ;ate product than '2;J0,000 3rior quality, xtensive and [ by the Gov- ent resources i Fi'aser we Union fishing ' fifteen miles • twenty-four ich furnished hundred and .t forty half- The steamer dl settlement ; of the Di'ltM Buie's store ^liJJi' , ' The Delta Cannery. The largest in British Columbia. Commencing operations )nly five years ago, its business has assumed such proportions tliat it now enijdoys a force of over 400 men, 280 Chinese, and KiO Indians, and a fishing outfit consisting in j)nrt of thirty-eight boats and nets, two seines, one steam tug and four scows. The cannery is 160x120 feet square, two stories high, and in some respects the most completely furnished of any on the Pacific coast. It is provided with a boiler sixteen feet long, and four feet in diameter, twelve tanks, two retorts of 3,300 cans capacity each, filling and soldering machines, four laquer baths, and every convenience for the rapid and thorough perftn-mance of the various oper- ations necessary to secure the highest degree of perfection in the preparation of this most excellent article of food. China- men, under the supei'vision of experienced white foremen, are employed for the canning process, and Indians for catching the fish, receiving from $1 25 to $2 00 per day — the net tenders the latter amoimt. The daily catch per boat ranges from fifty to three hundred salmon, the fleet sometimes bringing in twelve or fifteen thousand. This season the nm has been so extraordinaiy that the Delta Cannery put up 1,280 cases in a single day and 6,600 cases in six days. Mssrs. Page & Ladner, the managing partners of the firm, showed me their product for the last month, amounting to the enormous quantity of 25,000 cases, or 1,152,000 cans, covering every available space of the iumiense lower floor to the height of over five feet, the largest number ever packed by any one establishment diiring the same period of time. Two hundred and fifty barrels of salmon, or about 1,3000, were also salted within the month. The company ship their goods direct to London or Liver- jiool through the firm of Welch, Rithet & Co., of Victoria. Proceeding we soon reach New Westminster, The principal city of the Mainland, formerly the capital of the Crown Colony, occupying a very pleasant and command- ing situation on the right bank of the Eraser, about fifteen 2 4 niiles from the mouth ami 75 miles from Victoria. The site was chosen by Col. Moody, in 1858, being then covered with a dense gi-owth of enormous cedars some of which were twelve feet in diameter. Hon. J. W. Armstrong, just ap- pointed Provincial Secretary, erected the first house — a store and dwelling — in March, 1859. This gentlemen related to me how it came by its present name. Originally called Qne'^n or Queensborough, a dispute having arisen between Gov. Douglas and Col. Moody as to which should prevail, the matter was submitted for settlement to Her Majest}' Queen Victoria who decided against both by substituting New Westminster. It lies in the heart of tlie great resources of the Province, surrounded by the most extensive and richest bodies of agricultural lands, with large tracts of the finest timber near at hand, and in the midst of fisheries so enor- mously productive that thirteen canning establisliments within a radius of twelve miles, will put up over twelve million cans of salmon, alone, the present season. Vessels drawing fifteen feet of water reach New Westminster in safety at all times and find good anchorage and Avharfage, and Port Moody, on Bnrrard's Inlet, the best and most commodi(jus harbor along these shores, selected as the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railroad, is only six miles distant. The city, now containing a population of al)out 2,500, is in a very prosperous condition, but scarcely realizes the future which awaits it upon the establishment of railroad communication with the interior and the East, the influx of population, and the consequent development of the great resources of this region. Besides many Avell built stores, residences, and hotels, it contains the Provincial Penitentiary and Asylum, a public hospital, and good church and school buildings. A fine Post Office is in coiu'se of erec- ticni. A free reading room and library is well sustained. There are two local newspapers — the Britiult CoUinihutn and Mainland Guardian — well conducted and supported. At the hospital, Mr. Adam Jackson, the courteous and efficient Superintendent, after conducting me through the several commodious and sunny wards showed me, in the fine fiower garden attached, a sweet pea vine over seven-and-a-half feet The site lived with lich were , just a-p- I — a store elated to etl Qiie-^Jii een Gov. evail, the ty Queen ting New lources of iitl richest tlie finest I so enor- )Ushmeuts up over present each New anchorage t, the best electetl as is only six ulation of it scarcely ishment of 3 East, the lent of the Avell l)nilt Provincial ood church rse of erec- sustained, 'imhi(ni and ihI. At the id efficient the several ) fine flower -a-half feet NEW WESTMINISTER ADVERTISEMENTS. THE OCCIDENT HOTEL ! COLUMBIA STREET, O. The only Fire-Proof Hotel in the city. First-class ac- commodations at reasonable rates. Private Din- ing rooms for Ladies and Families. J. AUSTIN, - - PROPRIETOR JAMES WISE, Importer and General Dealer in Clothing, Boots and Shoes, Hardware, Crockery and Cordage. Also, Milli- nery and Fancy Goods, Front street. JOSEPH M. WISE, Teamster and Dealer in Fuel. Goods Removed at Moderate Prices. Orders left at J. Wise' s store, Front street, Promptly Attended to. THE BRITISH COLUMBIAN Columbia Street, New Westminster. The " British Columbian" is published every Wednesday and Saturday Morning, and is recognized as the best Adver- tising Medium on the Mainland of British Columbia. Subscription, $3 per year. Robson Bros., Proprietors. T. R. Pearson & Co., Books, Stationery, Music. Columbia St John E. Lord, Dealer in Furniture, Carpets, kc. Columbia St. G. Leiser, Gentlemen's Furnishing Goods. Columbia St. Wm. Rae, Dealer in General Merchandise. Wm. MoColl, General Merchandise. J. H. Pleace <fe Co., Hardware, Stoves, Tinware, Paints, etc. E. Bradbury, Tobacco, Cigars, Pipes, etc. Columbia St. W. H. Keaby, Books, Stationery, Musical Instruments, etc. W. D. Ferris, Land Agent, Conveyancer and Debt Collector S. H. Webb, Gunsmith, General Repairing, Cutlery, Guns, London House, J. Ellard k Co., Dry Goods, Clothing, Fancy Goods, Millinery, Dress Making. C. G. Majoii, importer of Gonoral Mdwe., Colmubiii strcot C. M, McNaucihten, Wiitclmmkcr and Jcnvtrlor. John W.vlhh, Excolsiin- Tailoring Emporium. TitAl'P BitoTiiEBH, Importers, Dry Goods and Hardware DroHS- making and Tailoring. Also, Am'tioncors. CorrAOE Bakebt, Martha Harvey ProprietresH. Jameh Rousseau, mf and dlr in Boots, Shoes, Leather, Skins Henky Eickhoff, Gen Mdso, Groceries, Provisions. Emma Gould, General Mdse, Groceri»*s and Provisions Telegraph Hotel, Fnmt street, J. Powers, Propiietor The Yuet Wah Restauhant, Front street, Moy Ging, Pro})r. Henky V. Edmonds, Ileal Estate Agent and Notary Public. Woods <t Tuunek, Surveyors, Land Agents and Conveyancers Websteii & Co., Manufacturers of rough and dressed Lumber Eagle Hotel, Front St., Plumb & Anderson, Proprietors. PORT MOODY BURRARD INLET ADVERTISEMENTS. New Westminsteh-Buuraud Inij;t D^uly Stage Line — Leaves New Westminster at 9 o'clock A. M. and Gran- ville, Burrarvl Tnlet, at 2 P. M. W. R. Lewis, Propr. THE PORT MOODY SHINGLE MILL, J. B. TIFFIN, Propr. HOPE EMORY-YALE ADVERTISEMENTS. Columbia Hotel, Joseph James, Proprietor, Hope, B. C. Fort Hope Hotel James Corrigan, Proprietor. Emory Hotel, Emory, F. W. Geisler, Prcjprietor. American Hotel, Emoiy, P. Billadeaux, Projjrietor. California House, Yale, B. C, G. Tuttle, Proprietor. W. E. McCartney, Dispensing Chemist, Yale, B. C. Kimball & GLuVdwin, Commission Merchants, Yale, B. C. PowEiiS Brotiiep.s, General Merchandise, Yale, B. C. Travelers Rest, Alex. IMcDonald, Proprietor, Yale, B. C. J. D. FiiicKELTON, M. D., Yale, B. C, Chronic Diseases and Cancer a specialty. Dougi^vs & Deighton, Importers, Manufactuaors, and Dealers in every description of Harness and Saddlery, Y'ale. GiLMOBE «fe Clarke, Clothiers and Outfitters, Yale. ■• ; root •o Dress- er, SkiiiH (lis tor .r, Propr. Public, veyancers I Lumber lietors. ENT8. Link— iiul Clran- 'ropr. Pkopb. , B. C. tor. ,B. C. C. e, B. C. I specialty. jrs in every James McBuide, Stoves and Tinware, Yale. KonT. LourriT, Blacksmith and Waj^on Maker, Yale. D. MacQuauiue, Boot and Shoemaker, Yale. James Fiiaseh, Watchmaker, Yale. Bossi it Vei^tti, General Merchandise, Yale. A. VanVolkenbuikih, Butcher, Yale. E. Pie, General Merchandise, Yale. KwoNO Lee k Co., General Merchandise, Yale. LuN Sang, General Merchandise, Butchers, and Bakers, Yale . YALE-CARIBOO WAGON ROAD ADVERTIHEMENTS. Sixteen Mile House, E. Cannoll, Proprietor. Boston Bah Stohe k Hotel, Peter Fink, Proprietor. Boston Bau House, Store and Stables, H. B. Dart, Prop. FoKEST House, 3G m. from Yale, 21 fm Lytton, E. Skuse, Pro 42-MiLE House, Thomas Benten, Proprietor. Kanaka Bau House, Hautier & Phillips, Proprietor. H. F. Keefeu, Contractor, C.P.R.R., especially;^ for employ- ment of natives. LYTTON. Baillie Hotel, Geo. Baillie, Proprietor. Lytton Hotel, Robert Sprout, Proprietor. Globe Hotel, Louis Houtier, Propritjtor. Lytton Flour k Saw Mill, James Chai)man, Proprietor. John McKay, Livery and Feed Stable. Wm. Aixen Smith, General Blacksmith. Victor Delatre, Bakery and Grocery. Jules Boucherat, General Merchandise. C. H. Charity & J. F. Smith, Boot and Shoe Maker. Henry Blachfohd, General Blacksmith. Joseph Clark Watchmaker and Jeweller. John McIntyre, General Merchandise. KwoNG On (O.K.), General Merchandise. Foo SoNO, General Merchandise. Kong Chong Hing, General Merchandise. Hang Woo, General Merchandise and Laundry. YoNG Hing, Boarding House. Man Song Tong, Chinese Doctor and Medicines. B. 0. Express House, Nacomiu, Art. Clemes, Proprietor. NicoMN House k Store, James Place, Proprietor. COOK'H FERRY. Morton House, Sponoo's Brulgo, 0. Morton, Propriekr. CooKB Feuhy House, Best of Accommodations for Man and Beast. 8. M. Nelson, Proprietor. John MuRB*' • V^eral Merchandise. W. R. ^^ ...»v, General Morcbandiso. James Vaib, Stoves and Tinware. J. 11. Tait, General Blacksmith. Evan Campbell, Gen. M'dse, 9 miles from Spence's Bridge. YALE-CARIBOO WAGON ROAD ADVERTISEMENTS. Buonaparte House, Cache Creek, Jas. Campbell, Prop. G. 8. Stephenson, Blacksmith, Cache Creek. Yden Kee, General Merchandise, Cache Creek, B.C. F. W. Foster, General Merchandise, Clinton, B.C. Dominion House, A. B. Ferguson, Prop., Clinton, B.C, John McCully, Horso-sboer, Blacksmith. BitiDOE Creek or 150-Mile House, Thos. M. Hamilton, Prop- Wm. Baroer, General Blacksmith, 150-Mile House. P. C. DuNLEvY, Hottsl and Store, Soda Creek, B.C. Heed & Huson, General Merchandiso, Quesnelle, B.C. Hudson Bay Co., Fur Traders, Quesnelle, R. J. Skinner, J. C F. RoBT. Middleton, General Blacksmitbing, Quesnelle. Occidental Hotel, John McLean, Prop., Quesnelle. Golden Eaole Hotel, Quesnelle, Robt. Pacey, Prop. Yan War, General Merchandise, Quesnelle. Kwong Lee & Co., General Merchandise, Quesnelle. Wah Lee, General Merchandise, Quesnelle, B.C. W. W. DoDD, General Merchandise, Stanley. S. A. Rogers, General MerchandLso, Barkerville. Hudson Bay Co., Gen. Mdse, Barkerville, A. Monroe, Agent. Kwong Lee <fe Co., Barkerville, General Merchandise. Wah Lee, General Merchandise, Barkerville. A, Pendola, General Merchandise, Barkerville. Mason & Daly, General Merchandise, Barkerville. John Bibby, Hardware, Stoves, Sic, Barkerville. Andrew Kelly's Hotel, Barkerville. W. D. MosES, Mdse, Fancy Goods, Hairdresser, Barkerville. Antelope Restaurant, Barkerville, R. K. Evans, Prop. 96 < Bridge. CNTH. rop. tou, Prop- 5.C. ler.J.CF. lie. le. 3p. ■oe, Agent. ise. larkerville. Prop. in lu'ight, iiuil cIoho by, vegetables of surprising growth. IllieunmtiHni and paralysis are the yrioot prevalent diseases among his [)atii!nts. At the tinits of my visit, just after pay- day among th(! (iauncrit^s, the city was full of Indians, nipni- senting all th(^ various Mainland and Island tribt^s, living in canvas tents and huts, dressed in every conceivable mixture of barbarous and civilized costume, one of the most interest- ing collecitions of human crcatun^s ever seen on the earth. These Northern tribes are generally good workers, and earn during the summer considerable sums of money which they spend freely upon whatever most pleases their fancy. Many of their i)ur(!hases, which this traders said inciluded almost evttrything, were »ixceedingly amusing, especially in the lino of dress goods. Sometimes a prosperous buck will jump from a barliarous into a civilized costume at a bound, and parade the streets in a black suit and white silk necktie, and everything except habits to corresjxmd. One Indian was seen ])roudly leading his I'ttle daughter w'-om he had gaily dressed in white, with a blue silk sa.sh, a pretty white waist, and a silk j)arsol in hand, but bare footed and legged. Tiiough then! were probably upwards of a thousand Indians in the city I saw no disorderly ctmduct among them. I am indebted to Capt. A. P(>ele, a prominent druggist and a})othe- cary of Ntsw Westminster, and Meterological Observer for the Dominion Government and Signal Officer for the United States, for the following valuable notes of the mean temper- atures and rainfall at that place for a period of six years : — JTEAN T.K M P". HIOHE8T TEMP. LOWEST TEMP. RAINFALL. »4.9 37.11 4<I.H 4S.1 54. H :>H:.i fili.H m.H - r.ti.« - 4H.9 4().» 3li.2 57 57 m 74 82 HI 02 K4 81 75 69 54 IH 21) »4 iW 45 44 42 2H 14 H 7.2« F(*V>ruHry . 6.61 Ataroti 6.77 April 2.S5 M;iy .luiiu 2 HH July I.IVI A niruHt 2.11' S*»ptomlinr K.tW r>.H;t November 7.65 Dncoinbor 7.H7 Between New Westminster and Yale, a distance 100 miles, the mail steamers not unfrequently make 26 thirty -five landings, including stoppages at railway construc- tion cam])s. Maple Hidgt^, twelve miles ; Langley, seventeen. Riverside, thirty-one ; Matsqiii, thirty-three ; Snuias, forty-one; Chilliwluick, forty-seven ; Hope, eighty-five; and Emory, ninety-five miles above, being the most important places. Langley. Though only 'a small village, ■< the oldest settlement on the river having been laid out for a town in 1858. There is a considerable tract of rich, arable land a short distance back, of wliich the Hudson Bay Company own about a thousand acres. Though the area susceptible of cultivation along the Lower Eraser is comparatively limited it comprises in tlie aggi'egate over 150,000 acres, excluding the deltas. At Matsqui there is a prairie opemng three or four miles square, aud on the right bank opposite, north of the Mission, Burton's Prairie, containing over 3,000 acres. Suiuas Prairie is estimated to contain 25,000 acres of farming lands. Surromiding Chilliwhack, A village? of al)o it twenty-five houses on the left bank, there is a large body of level, lightly timbered, alder, maple and pine wooded bottoms, enclosed by a grand ampith<>atre of mountahis. The soil is a deep clay, alluvial, exceedingly produi - tive. Mr. A. Pierce told me that the lessee of his funu, sit lated three miles back from the landing, will clear $2,000 this season from forty-eij^ht acres under cultivation. Though comprising the pinncipal farming settlement id the river, these lands are ojily about half occupied. In common with most of those described they are subject t^ occasional overflows sometimes quite disastrous. The i\ /incial Government has undertaken to protect them by dyking and will doid)tless succeed in doing so. For sixty miles from the mouth of Harrison River the Frascn- hpj little valley proper, the moun- tains rising abruptly fi-om two to five thousand feet above the 3ea, their rugged, furrowed sides sparsely covered with tildes the Ui have witliin miles ed inn Ji snii al)()^■e 2 7 construc- evfuteen, Siinias, five ; iiiid important emeut on in i8r)8. e land a apany own ■ejitiblo of ely hmik'd chiding the ee or fonr rth of the 000 acres. 1 of farming U^ft bank, •, mapio and >xtheatre of igly produi - nn,sit lated this season I comprising ■Hi lands are ost of those overflows 'rnmont has 1 donbtl OSS mouth of ', the moun- [>t above the vercd with Donglas fir, and sharply defined j^eaks with remnants of the winter snows. Th^re are occasional slopes, benches and bottoms of small extent, occupied, though the general aspect of the country, outsitie the small settlements, is a wild, unbroken wilderness. This was tin; field of the great Frasei ' llivergold excitement of twenty-four years ago, wluui miners rushed in from all parts of the world, encountering untold hardships and dangers to share in its rich treasures. The Itt'st diggings were found upon the lower benches and bars of the river, American, Murdei-er's, Texas, Emory, Hill's Sailor's Boston, Kanaka, Fargo's, Chapman's, "Wellington, and Foster's l)eing the richest. Scores of brave fellows lost their lives in attempting to reach them, in canoes and small boats, through tin; terrible rapids of the awful canyons intervening. Between Cornish and American Bars, near the mouth of the Coquhalla River, we touch at the small village of Hope, Charmingly situated upon a high bench at the base of the mountains. A trail leads from thence 100 miles North- Eastward into the rich Similkameen and Okanagan country. A silver mine, said to V)e very rich, has been discovered upon the side of the mountain within sight, upon Ihc; development of which great an<^icipi'^i(ms are l)ased. I am informed by Mr. B. C. Oleson, Supt. of the C. P.ll. R. powdcu- works, that there are good o'^enings in the up[)er Skagit Valh^y, within forty or fifty miles of Hi^pe, for thirty or forty famiiies. Salmon Ruiminp: and Catching Extraordinary. I have read, with mucii allowance, accounts of the multi- tudes of salmon sometimes seen in the smaller tributaries of the Umpcpia, Columbia, and Eraser Rivers, but, after what I have witnessed to-day, am prepared to believ(< any fish story within the limits of possibilities. Arriving at Emory, five miles Ixdow Yale, two 3'oung men from San Francisco report- ed imme\se munbers of salmon at tlie month of Emory Cn>ek, a small, rapiil mountain stream fiowing into tiie Fraser just above. Going there I fimnd it packed so full in places that I 28 coimted, wliile standing in one position upon the railroad bridge, over four hundred different salmon. Mentioning the matter to a resident, he remarked, " Oh ! that's nothing. If you want to see salmon goto the next creek beyond." Keach- ing there, after a walk of about four miles, and taking a central position upon the bridge crossing it, I counted, without moving, over 800 salmon. This stream plunges down the mountain side with a fall n{, probably, one liundred and fifty feet within a mile-irid-!.-b:Jx, being from five to fifteen yards in width. For a di; Id"!. -several rods up from its mouth , the salmon were ci. .v(iii>y m from the muddy Fraser, now again rapidly rising, almost as thick as they could swim, and in their desperate efforts to ascend the successive falls above presented a spectacle never before witnessed by the oldest native settler. Mr. John Woodwoi-th, who has lived here for twenty-four years, says he never heard of the like. The salmon is a fish of extraordinary strength and agility, and are said to jump and swim up perpendicular falls from ten to twenty feet in height. I stotxl upon the bank an liour and watched them in their desperate struggles to make the ascent of several of lesser size within sight. Of hundreds whicli made the attempt, only a few, comparatively, succeeded, but fell back exhausted, splashing au whirling among the boulders. Many were covered' '. ith ^Teat bruises, some had lost their eyes, a few lay dear U;;ai ii'e shore, others were dying, and all seemed nearly m.^kv nui. Stepping close to fi pool filled with them, I easily cauj^n' two iii my hands, which offered but little resistance. Before J- a-ing, a photographer, Mr. D. K. Judkins, of NcwWestmi'\-4tcr, anivedand took two views of the remarkable scene. M^. Dani»;l Ashworth, wife and family were also present. Beaching Yale I told a hotel- keeper about it, estimating the salmon at thousands. •' Thousands ! " he exclaimed, almost with indignation, " Why, there are millions of them i* v running up the Fraser within a few miles of town." Ge;*"i ,, nboard Mr. Onderdonk's con- stniction train I rode along d • :• er, fifteen miles to the end of track. Millions was prob;i,( ly nut much of an exagger- ation, for although the river was quite muddy, schools ot |if\'Tnoii, uu il»eriiig thousands each, coidd be seen from the 29 e railroad ioiiing the )thiiig. If Reach- g a ceutral \, without down the \ and fifty toen yards its mouth , raser, now swim, and falls above ■ the oldest lived here like. The ity, and are from ten to hour and i the ascent reds which needed, but among the 3, some had athers were ; close to p. ands, which otographer, nd took two th, wife and Id a hotel- thousands, ion, " Why, •aser within •donk's con- ^ to the end an exagger- , schools ot len from the i platform of the cars, at short intervals, the entire distance. The Indians were catching and drying them in large quanti- ties. Standing upon the edge of per[)endicu]ar projecting ledges, they capture the largest and finest specimens, either by means of hooks or scoop-nets, di-ess them upon the spot and hang them up on long poles to dry in the wind and sun. When suflaciently cured they are packed in caches made from cedar shakes, and suspended for safe keeping among the branches of trees from twenty to fift^' feet ab(jve the ground. It is the opinion of those familiar with the habits of the salmon, that not one in a thousand succeeds in depositing their spawn, and that if hatching places were ])rovided uptm tlieso streams, and protected that they could scarcely be exhausted, under proper restrictions as to catching them. On the morn- ing of the 15th I reached Yale, The head of navigation on the Eraser River, a town of several liundred inhabitants and buildings sitiiated upon a narrow l)ench, surrounded by mountains of striking grandeur, rising precipitously thousands of feet among the clouds. In the eiirly days of the goy discoveries in this region, Yale present- ed those scones of wild dissipation and reckl<>ss extrava- gance oiilj witnessed in great and rich mining camps. An old miner, who was stopped from working his claim when I)aying from sixteen to twenty dollars per day, because encroaching upon the city front, told me that he seldom cleaned up without finding gold pieces which had been dropped from the overflowmg pockets of men intoxicated with li({uor, and excitement. It was nothing uncomuKm in those times to spend fifty dollars in a single treat around at the bar. It is now an orderly place, siipporting churches schools, and a weekh' paper, the Inland Sentinel, by Mr. M. Hagan — the extreme North-Western publication up<m the Continent. There is still paying placer mining on the river l)ench opposite, though the place derives its main support from the construction of the C. P. R. R., traffic vnth the interior, and throiTgh travel. 30 The Grand Scenery of the Cascade Region. T\w gnuido.st iscener}' on the Western slope of the Conti- nent is formed by the passage of its great rivers through the Cascade Range. When I hioked with wonder and admira- tion upon the stupendous architecture of tlie mountains through which the Cohind)ia has worn hov way by the How of unknown ages, I tliought surely this scene can have no parallel ; but ascending*the Fraser River, above Yale, moun- tains just as rugged, lofty, and precipitous, present their rocky, furrowed sides; a stream as deep, swift, and turbulent, rushes headlong to the sea, between granite walls hundreds of feet in height, above which rise, by every form of rocky embattle- m(Uit, tower and castle, and terracinl slope which the imagination can conceive, the snow-covered peaks of the Cascades. Great broad, deep paths, have been worn down the mountain sides b}' the winter avalanches ; crystal streams come bounding over their narrow rocky beds, sometimes leaping hundreds of feet, as if impatient to join the impetuous river below, enormous rocks stand out threateningly in the channel, over and around wliich, the waters boil and foam with an angry r(jar ; and thus above, and below, and on t^very hand for more than tifty miles, extends tltis subhme exhibition of natui'e. TRIP NUMBER TWO. From Victoria to Borkerville, Cariboo, via New Westmin.ster, Yale, Bosfon Bar, Lytton, Coolis Ferry, Anhcrnft, Caclie Creek, Clinton, Soda Creek, and Quesnelle. lieturniiKj through the Kamloop-s, Okamu/an, Spallumchee.n, ami Nicola Country — 1,G8*2 inUes. On the 9th of Sej)tember, two days after returning from Alaska, I took passage on the steamer Western Slope for New Westminster, en route for Cariboo. Capt. Moore, com- niandhig, is (me of the jiioneers in the steamboat navigation of 31 gion. the Conti- irougli the ml !uliiiirii- inouiitains y the flow an have no lie, nioiin- h(ur rocky, ent, rushes s of feet in enibattle- which tlie aks of the ndown the ital streams sometimes 3 impetuous inglv in the il and foam i,nd on every le exhibition Wefilminder, hcrqft, Cadie Ileturniny mcheen, and iurning from n Slope foi' tlijore, com- lavigation of tlie waters of British Columbia. In 1858, at the breaking out of the Fraser River gold excitement, he built and run the Blue Boat as far as Yale, clearing .$3,500 in five weeks. Four years later, during the nish to the Stiokeen River, he (uirned, with his little boat the " Flying Dutchman," $14,000 in seventy-five days, receiving $100 per ton for carrying freight from Fort Wrangel to Glenora, a distance of 100 miles. Upon the discovery of the rich Omineca- diggings in 1870, he placed two boats upon Ste\vart and Tatlah Lakes, 800 miles in the interitu-. His next venture w\as gold mining at Cassiar, where himself, and his sons John, AVilliam, and Hem-y, wa.shed out $35,000 in a little over five months. Then he built the steamers Alexandria and Western Slope for the East Coast trade. The latter, a staunch, powerful steamer of 850 tons burden, and good accommodations for thirty cabin passengers, makes bi-weekly trips l)etween Victoria and Yale, touching at intermediate ports. At New Westminster we transferred to the Gertrude, a swift steamer, running on the Fraser betwe<.'n that place and Yale. Mr. Li])sett, managing agent, informs me that she will probably return to her former route tm the Stickeen River, next spring. Arriving at Yale, I proceeded at once to the office of the British (\)lumbia Express tcj securer a seat in the .stage leaving for (^uriboo, 885 miles north, the following morning. As I en- tered, Mr. Dodd, the obliging agent, gi-avely remarked to a clerical gentleman who Avas anxious to express a snmll parcel, that there was'nt room on the stage for a to()th-i)ick. I did not much regi-et the detenti(m, for it gave me an opportunity to examine the most stupendous undertaking in railway build- ing on the North American continent, the construction of The Canadian Pacific Railroad Through the Cascade range of mountains. My readers are probably more or less familiar with the history of the progress of this gieat iron highway across the noi'thern portion of the continent. The necessity for such a road througli the several Provinces of the Dominion for their better security and mora rapid development becoming apparent, in 1871 surveying pai* ties were sent out to explore the comparatively unknown region through which, if possible, it should pass, and report upon tlio most favorable route. Over $3,500,000 has been expended upon these preliminai'y surveys. The location of the road east of the Bocky Mountains beings much the less difficult, the work of construction was commenced on tht 'clastern section in 1874, and 264 miles completed and in operation in 1880 ; but from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific coast no less than eleven lines, aggregating upwards 10,000 mile j, have been suiveyed before determining the best terminal jjoint and route thereto. Port Moody, at tl head of Burrard Inlet, has finally bee selected as the Maudand terminus, and the Govemof -General, the Marquis of Lome, has recently stated in a public speech at Victoria, that the road will probably cross the Bocky Moun- tains by the Kicking Horse Pass. In 1880 a contract and agi'eement was made between the Domini(m of Canada and John S. Kennedy of New York, Bichard B. Angus and James J. Hill of St. Paul, Minn., Morton, Bose & Co. of London, England, and John Beinach & Co. of Paris, France, forming an incorporated company, known as the Syndicate, for the constructi(m, operation, and ownership of the Canadian Pacific Bailway. By the terms of this agreement, that portion of the railway to be constnicted was divided into three sections, the first extending from Callander Station, near the east end of Lake Nipissing, to a junction with the Lake Superior section then being built by the Government, was called the Eastern section ; the second, extending from Selkirk, on the Bed Biver, to Kamloops, at the Forks of the Thompson Biver, was called the Central section, and the third, extending from Kamloops to Port Moody at Burrard Inlet, the Western section. The company agreed to lay out, construct) and equip in miming order, of a uniform guage of 4 ft. 8.^ in., the Eastern and Central sections by the first day of May, 1891. The company also agreed to pay the Government the cost, according to existing contract, for the 100 miles of road then in course of constraction from the city of Winni- \)eg Westward. The Government agreed to complete that portion of the Western section between Kamloops and Yale by June 30th, 1885, and also between Yale and Port bloody ( Sii])erio] strufted property of the and rig] railway coinplett I'pou th (lovcruii e(|nipnic b(^ const till' rem the Go% th(> Caui I)roperty maintain agreed .S25,000,( as follow 1,350 nil (550 mile Ist 900 2iul 450 (1.10 IillU Up 3 3 ujiou tlic uled upon east of the work of 1 ill 1874, but from lau eleven smveyed e thereto, ally bee r-General, 3 speech at iky Moun- itract and mada and ind James if London, le, forming ite, for the ian Pacific rtion of the jctions, the last end of I'ior section le Eastern 11 the Red Eiver, was iding from e Western construct) 4 ft. 8,^ hi., y of May, rnmeiit the les of road of Winni- I complete iiloops and le and Port Moody on or before the first day of May, 1891, and the Ijake Superior seeticm according to contract. The railway, as con- structed under the terms of the agi'eement, becomes the ])ioperty of the company, and jiending the comjiletion of the Eastern and Central sections the possession and right to work and run the several portions of the railway already constnicted, f)r as the same shall be completed, is given by the Goverii'ient to the com])any. I'pon the completion of the Eastern and Central sections the (T(jveruim'nt agreed to convey to the company (exclusive of o(|uipmeiit) tho.se portions of the railway constructed, or to bt; constructed by the Government, and upon completion of the remainder of the porti(m of railway to be constructed by the Government, to convey the same to the company, and the Canadian Pacific Eailwav thereafter become the absolute j)roiierty of the company, which agreed to forever efficiently maintaiii, work, and run the same. The Government further agreed to grant the company a subsidy in money of $'25,000,000, and in land of 25,000,000 acres, "to be subdivided as follows :,— monp:y suiJsiiiY— centual section. 1,350 miles.— 1st 000 miles, at $10,000 per mile. .$ 9,000,000 2nd 450 " 13,333 " .. (5,000,000 $15,000,000 EASTKUN SECTION. (550 miles at $15,384 Gl $10,000,000 $25,000,000 LAND SUBSIDY — CENTUAL SECTION. 1st 900 miles at 12,500 acres per mile 11,250,000 2nd 450 " IG.OOO.GT acres " 7,500,000 18,750,000 EASTERN SECTION. <;50 miles at 9,015.35 iicres per mile 6,250,000 25,000,000 Upon the construction and completion of, and regular 84 running of trains npon any portion of the railway, such as the traffic Khoulil require, not less than twenty miles in length, the Government agreed to pay and grant to the company the subsidies applicable thereto. The Governmcic also gi-auted to the company the lands required for the road-bed of the railway, and for its stations, station grounds, work shops, dock ground, and water frontage, buildings, yards, etc., and other appui-tenances required for its convenient and effectual construction and operation, tuid agreed to atlmit, tree of duty, all steel rails, fish plates, spikes, bolts, nuts, wire, timber, and all material for britlges to be iispd in the original construction of the railway and of a telegraph line in connection therewith. The Company's Land Grant. Comprises every alternate section of 640 acres, extending back twentj^-foiir miles deejj on each side of the railway from Wmnpeg to Jasper House, and where such sections (the uneven numbered) are not fairly fit for settlement on account of the prevalence of lakes and water stretches, the deficiency thereby caused to make up the 25,000,000 acres, may be selected by the company from the tract known as the fertile belt lying between parallels 49 and 37 degrees of North lati- tude or elsewhere, at the option of the company, of alternate sections extending back twenty-four miles deep on each .side of any branch lin(*, or line of railway by them located. The company may also, with the consent of the Government, select any lands in the North- West Territory not taken up to supply such deficiency. The company have the right, from time to time, to lay out, construct, equip, maintain, and work branch lines of railway from any point or points within the territory of the Dominion. It was further agreed by the Dominion Parliament that for the period of twenty years no railway should be constructed South of the Canadian Pacific Railway, except such hne as shall run South-West or to the Westward of South-West, nor to within fifteen miles of lati- tude forty-nine degrees, and that all stations, and station grounds, workshops, buildings; yards, and other property, rolling stock, and Jippurtenances required and used for the 35 Huch as in length, pany the ^•iiuteil |t'(l of the k shops, et(!., and eftectual se of duty, mber, and nstniotion thorevvith. extending ilway from jtions (the on account deficiency 38, may be the fertile North lati- ;)f alternate I each aide ated. The ovemment, ;aken up to right, from intain, and )ints within reed by the ty years no liau Pacific t or to the iles of lati- md station r property, ised for the construction and working thereof, and the capital stock of the company shall be forever free from taxation by the Dominion, or by any Province hereafter to be (istablished, or by anj' Municipal Corporation therein, and the lands of the company in the North- West Territory, until tliey are either sold or oc- cupied, shall also bo free from such taxation for twenty years after the grant thei'eof from the Crown. The Great Work of Building the Railway Through the Cascade Mountains. Soon after the consumation of the agreement. Mr. A. On- derdonk, an experienced railroad builder, became the man- aging contractor for the construction of that portion of the Western division extending from Port Moody to Savonas Ferry, a distance of two hundred and twelve miles, ably assisted by E. G. Tilton, Superintendent and Chief Enginer, John P. Bacon, Chief Commissarry, Geo. F. Kyle, Assistant-Superintendent, and other gentlemen. It presented greater difficulties than have ever been overcome in railway building. The Union and Central Pacific and other lines have gone over the mountains by gradual ascents, but no such way of climbing the Cascades was possible, and the wonder- ful undertaking of runnmg throinjli them parallel with the great canyon of the Eraser, was determii. jd upon. For nearly sixty miles from Yale to Lytton, the river has cut through this lofty range, thousands of feet below the summits. Moun- tain spurs of granite rock, with perpendicular faces hundreds of feet in height, pi'oject at short intervals along the entire passage. Between them are deep lateral gorges, canyons .and plunging cataracts. On this sixty n)iles of tunnels rock -vork and bridges, the greater portion of Mr. Onderdonk's con- struction army of 7,000 men have been engaged since 1880" The loud roar of enormous discharges of giant powder has almost constantly reverl)erated among the mountains. Fifteen tunnels have been bored, one 1,600 feet in length, and mil- lions of tons of rock bi^rsted and rolled with the noise of an avalanche into the mshing boiling Eraser; workmen have been suspended by ropes hundreds of feet down the perpen- 86 (liciilfir sides of tlic iiiouiitiiiuw to bliist a foot hold; Mup|ilie8 have l)eeu packed in upon the l)aeks of muh'S and horstjs, over trails whore the Indians were accustonied to use ladders, and building materials landed upon the opposite bank of the rivtu" at an enormous expense, and crossed in Indian canoes. It is estinuited that ])ortions of this work hav»' cost $'500,000 to the niih\ In a(hlition to other transportation chargers, Mr. Onderdouk pays $10 for every ton of his freight passuig over the Yale-Cariboo Wagon Road, (!xce])ting for the productions of tlie Province. As the work progresstnl tla^ cost of transportation by such means increased until Mr. Onderdonk determined to try and run a steamer through the (irand Canyon of the Fraser to the navigable waters above to sui)[)ly the advance camjjs. F(jr this purpose he built the steamer Skuzzy. Then came the difficulty of finding a captain able and willing to take her through. One after another wtnit up and looked at the little boat, then at tlw. awful canyon, the rushing river and the swift foaming rapids, and turned back, either pronouncing the ascent impossible or refusing to undertake it. Finally Cap- tains S. li. and David Smith, brothers, were sent for, both well known for their remarkable feats of steamboating on the up})er waters of the Columbia. The former ran the steamer Shoshone 1,000 miles down the Snake River through the Blue Mountains — the only boat which (ner did, or probably ever will, make the peiilous passage. He also run a steamer safely over the falls of Willamette at Oregon City. He said he could take the Skuzzy up, and prcjvided with a crew of seventeen men, including J. W. Burse, a skilful engineer, with a steam winch and capstain and several great hawsi^rs, began the ascent. At the end of seven days I found them just below Hell Gate, having lined safely through the roaring i?lack Canyon, through which the pent up waters rush like a mill-race at 20 miles an hour. Returning from my journey in the interior, I had the pleasm-e of congi-atulatiug the cap- tains up(m the successful accomplishment of the undertaking, and of seeing the Skuzzy start from Boston Bar with her first load of freight. Captain Smith said the hardest tug of war was at China Riffle, where, in addition to the engines, the steam w namen ii captains volume t of Mr. ( ties of gi Emory a — Mt^ssri mitted t( acid wor tight, th» '24 glass as l)arrel jars for Japan, jj nitro-gly were niai lbs. a da; after the oil and tl are mad^ and are f about 5( u AiK^ther Pacific I site, or s iGovernn [date tl |Caribo( jginning [the Alex jby Hon Ithence i lalong tl: jSpence' Iber fore iLa Hac 3 7 Hupplios ] 1(1 horses, se ladders, ink of the !U» i-aiioHH. $:}00,oo() laif^t^s, Mr. issiiig over roductioiiH 111 Viy Hui'h to try and Fruser to ICO camps. Then came to take h(!r it the litth' id the swift unciiif); the hially Cap- It for, both itiiig ou the the steamer ihrough the or probably II a steamer y. He said 1 a crew of giueer, with Fsers, began I them just the roaring rush like a my journey iug the cap- iiidertaking, >ar with her rdest tug of engines, the steam winch, and 15 men at the capstain, a force of 150 ("hi. namen upon a third line was recjuired to pull her ovia- ! The cajitains received S2,250 for their work. It would fill (|uite a volume to descrilxi in detail eveiitlu* more iiiiportaiit jiortions of Mr. Onderdonk's great work. All of the iininense (juaiiti- ties of giant ])owder used is manufactured on the line between Emory and Yale. Through tlie favor of the Superintendents —Messrs, Daniel Ashworth and Ji. C. Oleseii — I was jier- niitted to examine the whole of the interesting process. The acid works contained 2 Aitriol chambers, made of lead, air tight, the largest 02 feet long, 22 feet wide, and 20 feet high • 24 glass condensers for holding suljihuric acid nearly as largo IS liarrels, costing from SIK) to $40 (^aeli; 24 great earthen jars for nitric acid, and about 200 tons of brim.stone from Ja])an, and 00 tons of nitrate of soda from Chile. At the nitro-glycerine and giant cartridge works a fonuj of 10 men were manufacturing the terrible explosivcis at the rate of 1200 lbs. a day. It requires about two hours to make the powder after the sulphuric and nitric acids and the sweet gl^-cerine oil and the (!harcoal have been prepared. The cartridge cases are made fnmi strong jiaper dipped in hot paiaffino and wax, and are from f to 1 inch in diameter — 118 weighing, when filled, about 50 11)8. The Yale-Cariboo Wagon Road, Another great highway, runs parallel with the Canadian Pacific Eailwav thnmgh the Cascade Mountains on the oppo- .site, or south side of the Fraser. It was built by the Colonial Government, in 1862, at a cost of $800,000 to accommo. date the great rush to the won If if idly rich gold fields of Cariboo, and the travel and trafic resulting therefrom. Be- ginning at Yale it crosses the Fraser twelve miles above, over the Alexander wire suspension bridge, a fine structure erected by Hon. Joseph W. Tinitch, m 1803, at a cost of $42,000. From thence it follows up the left bank of the river to Lyttou, then along the Thompson to Cook's Ferry, which it crosses on Spence's Bridge up the Buonaparte, through the Green Tim- ber forests, down the San Jose, through the beautiful Lake La Hache country; again along the Fraser, across the Ques- 88 nollo then up tlio fiiinons Lij^litniiif^ Cn'i'k into tlui heart of tlio mountains and ;1" tho rirhest mining camp 400 mihis from Yak', 5,000 feet above the hivel of the sea. Over tlie steep nxmntain spurs, ami across the wild eanycms— (52 bridges in 25 miles — alonf^ the brink of frowniiif^ precipices thousands of feet above the river, anJ 3,000 feet below the; summits, it winds through the Cascade llange. Slides, avalanches, and Hoods freijuently destroy portions of it, $39,000 having been expended for re])airs upon the first 110 miles in 188'2. During the great Hood of last June the water rose within four fcset (jf the Susp^iuaion Bridge, which stands 88 feet above low water mark. Mr. Black, who has charge of the first section of the road, once saw an avahuu'he sweep entirely across the -er, above Hell Gate, onto the mountain on the oppos ide. He expended, one year, $2,500 in dealing the sn,. ,/m the first twenty-five miles of the road. I walked o\in- it by day and rode ovtn- it by night, and what, vritli the grandeur of the mountains and canyons, the two great highways which traverse them — only separated by tlie roaruig river — the Indian villages and burying grounds, the old plac(;r diggings, the tents of an army of Cliinese rail- way laborers, the long processions of great freight wagons drawn by from twelve to sixteen cattle en- mules, and hundreds of pack animals filing by, driven by Indians, carrying sup- plies into the interior, it was a journey of (fxceeding intertist- At several points there were wayside inns, orchards, gardc^ns, and meadows. Mr. H. B. Dart, of Boston Bar, and Thos. Ben- ten, of Kanaka Bar, showed me apple, i)ear, and plum trees bending under then burdens of handsome fruit. Lytton. Situated on the left bank of the Fraser, just below the mouth of the Thompson, fifty-seven miles from Yale, is the first place reached after crossing the divide, and the next largest in the interior to Barkerville. Looking at the bare, brown, rocky foothills surrounding, one wonders wiiat can support its score of business houses, hotels, and shops, and two hundred residents. It comes from various sources, the rich Lillooet country on the river above, railway construction, :}9 thri)Uph travel iiiid traffic, and tlio iitsigliboriiifj Indians. Mr. Seward and Tlios. Earl have the most extensive and valuable improved ranehes in this ncif^hhorhood, each containinj^ fine (irchards of apples, pears, cherries, pliuns, etc. Mr. Earl says he gathered $100 worth (jf apples from one tree this season, and (jne apple wiiich weighed one pound and a quarter. Here Mr. Patrick Killroy, the oldest, and most ex- tensive resident liutcher in the interior, told me that he; had killed, two, five, and six-ytsar old bunch grass f(Ml steers, which weighed, dressed, respectively, 915, 1,336, and l.-lOO pounds, and showed me the kidney of an ox weighing 09 j)ounds. Beyond Nacomin, near Cook's Ferry or Spence's Bridge, The road crosses the great mud slide, or moving mountain which a raildroad engineer said was sliding toward the river at the rate of eight feet a year. How to build a railway over this changing base, is a problem the engineers are trying to solve. I am well acquainted with Mortimer Cook, who immortalized himself, and made a fortune hero, in the days when Cariboo was rolling out her fabulous wealth, by ferrying over the armies of gold hunters rushing northward. A man of remarkable energy and exceptional ability, he rode into this country jjoor, on a mule, and out of it in good style, a few years later, worth his thousands, added to them by successful operations in the West, invested all in California, flourished, became banker and Mayor of the most beautiful city on the Southern coast, and then, in the general financial crash of 1877, turned everything over to his creditors, like a man. The place is now quite a little village, and being situated at the en- trance to the Nicola country, will always prosper. Mr. John Murray, an old time resident, owns a fine property and ranch here, upon which, in addition to excellent grains, vegetables, apples, chemes, plums, and benies, he has grown, this season, grapes, which, he says, the Marqxiis of Lome pro- nounced eoaal to any raised in the Dominion. Crossing the Thompsou River, on Spence's Bridge, I proceeded thirty miles to Cache Creek, past Oregon Jack's, and through 40 Ashcroft, Lieuteiiaut-Govenior Cornwall's splendid estate. The moun- tain valleys to the Westward contain excellent sunnner stock ranges, and the rolling river slopes, consde'^able tracts of arable land, jjroducing large crops by irrigation. The manager of the Governor's j)laco told me that they raised 19,500 ])ounds oi wheat ll-om six acres, or over fifty bushels l)er acre, and that tliirty-three bn.shels is their average yield. Afewmilesb(\y()nd, Antoine Minaberriet owns a fine ranch of 2,030 acres, with 400 in. proved, fourteen miles of irrigating ditches, where lie has made a foitune by .stock-raising. He solel $4,000 worth of cattle last year, and has 900 now on the range. Between his place and Cache Creek I came near .stepping on a rattlesnake, which gave the alarm just in time to enable me to jump tmt of reacli of its poisonous fangs. Procuring a sharp stone, and approacfhing as near as prudent, by a lucky throw I nearly severed its vtmemous head. It Avas about three feet in Ituigtii, with six rattles. They are not immerous, being seldom seen in the course of ordinary travi.'l. Ciich ; Crec.'k is situated on tlie Buo.iaparte, about six miles from the Thompson lliver. I rode through this rich, pleasant valK>v, with Mr. Thadueus Harper, -"ho owns 25,000 acres of laud, large bands of cattle and blooded horses, improv(>d farms, gold mines, floui and saw- mills, town sites, etc. It contains about 2,r)00 acres of very rich soil, principally owned by Harner, Wilson, Van Yolken- burgh, an<l Sauford. Stopping a moment, where wheat threshing was in progress,! found the berry to be exceptional- ly large and white. W/ien near the Thomp.son llivt^r, the jn'opcwi'd s e for the junction of the Yale-Carilxto W^agfm Road with the C. P. R. R., was pointed out. Retui'ning to Cache Crt^ek, I rode 275 miles further North to Barkervillo upon the excellent stage of the British Columbia Express Co. Their line rumiing the enti'-c length of the great Yale-Cariboo Wagon Road, first established as Bar- 41 nard's Express in ISOO, was int'or])()ratftd as the British Cohimbia Express Company in 1878, Mr. Frank S. Barnard, of Victoria, being its inanriqing agent. Horses .tnd men were used at first for its traffic over V.\o rough and difficult mountain trails. At Bostcm Bar, I was told about two Indians who once sought refuge at an inn, near the 8us[)ension Bridge, after liaving betia covered up and roughly handled by an avalanche. As they Avere leaving, it was noticed that they shouldered heavily weighted sacks. Upon e nquiry , it was found that they were each carrying eighty pounds of gold lust for the company, which they safely delivered to Mr. Dodd, its agent at Yale. But stages were substituted in 18(55, H'jd for eighteen years it has iieen one of the best equipped, and manag(!d stage lines upon the Pacific coast. It is Hto(;ked •>iith f'plendid horses raised by Hon, F. J. Barnard, M. P., the largest owner in the company, upon his extensive horse ranch in the Okanagan country. These .spirited animals itre fre([uently hitched u]), wikl from the range, ahead of trained ones, and though dashing away at full gallop, up j.nd and down hills i'or miles, over the most fright- ful mountain roads, are so skillfully managed by Tiugley, Tait, Bates, and Moffit, careful and experienced drivcns, that accidents s(»ldom occur. A ride of twenty-six miles in a North-westerly dir<H'tion, fourteen up the valley of the Buonaparte Creek, lightlv wooded with Cottonwood and po])lar, and containing al)out a thousand acres of rich arable bottoms, exclusiv(> of me.idows, and thence across Hat Creek along the shores of l)eautiful lakes (.golden bordered ' -ith the autumn foliage of the popl'ir and vine ma])le, brii>'.;sns to Clinton. It is a [)leasant villag(> of about one hundred inhabitants, two good iiuis, several stores and shops, situated at the junc- tion of the old Harri.son Iviver, Lillooet, with the Yale-Cariboo road. Within a radiuf> of thirty miles there are summei' stock ranges of considerable extent, especially in tlie Cretan Lake count>'v and Cut-oti Valley, and arable lands ])roducing annually abort ;iO,0()0 bushels of whcnt and olhcr grains. 42 fiat(i mill early fiosts fVc({iU)iitly c-nt slunt the unA iiutl vcf^c- hiltle crops, tlioiij^li this season's yield was most abniulaiit. Mr. Foster, the leading morchaut of this sec^tion, showed me a, potato ffi'owii near town which weighed two and thrtie- qnartiMs lbs. From tA\enty-tive to thirty tlionsand dollars' worth of f^old dnst is slnieed out yearly by Chinamen and Indians along tin; Fraser and tribiitaty streams within sixty mi](^s. The J'ig Slide cinail/. lo(h', owned by Mr. F. W. Foster, is re[)oi [ed immensely rieh. assaying from ^-lU to f 100 por ton. About $20,0fM) wortli of fins are jjurcliased here annualiy, principally beavei-. .V small rapid mount.iin stream flows tln'ough the village iut(. the Buonaparte. A f(!W yivirs ago it was stocked with trout, and so rapidly have they in- creased that a fellow passenger, Ml'. Andrew Gray of Victoria, lironght in forty splendid specimens after an absence not ex- ceeding two hours. For tU'ty miles lun'ond Clinton, we pur- sued a North-easterly coui'st^ over a rocky surfaced mountain ihvide between the Fraser and the Thompson, lightly wooded with fdack pine, spruce and tamarack, known as the Green TindxT. Near the summit, at an elevation of I],fin0 feet, we pass within sight of the Great Chasm, a remarkable rent in fho mountain nearly a thousand feel in depth, pi'r[>endicnlar walled, with two lakelets gleaming among the pines at the bottom. At Li iilge Creek there is a pheasant prairie opening of six or seven huiidreil acres with meadows bordei-ing, owned by Mr. Hamilton, and used for (hiirying pur|)oses. Soon we jo'<^ following down the SaJni^n ami San Jose llivcrs through The Eeautifiil Lake La Hache Country. ]t embraces an extensive scoj)e of exc('llent summer stock ranges only i)artly occupied. The winters are very sevens but tlry, and the snow fall modeiatt;. At Lake La Hacht>, a charming slie<!t of water, scores of trout wore seen jumping out their full length. A son of Mr. Aiehibald McKinley, a former factor of the Hudson Bay Company, who owns a large Htock ranch here, said that they c<Mild be caught by the boat load. On we whirl, at a seven-mile trot , through pojjlar oi)en- ings interspersed with sranll lak(;s, bordennl by hay iiu^adows. At the head of AVilliams Lak(^ we leave two of our passen- 43 Hfei's, Si.stor Miiry Cleinftut and compiuiioii, of tlic St. Josepli Mission. Ell roiifc from Kiiinloops with a scttlci' of tliiit sec- tion, liis hor.ses took tViglit, thri'w liiiu out, and daslicd away at full luu with the Sisters f(»r ovei' threes miles at the im- minent peril of their lives. With remarkable presetiee of mind tln^y s(!ized the reins, sat down on tln^ l)i)tt(im of the wagon jiiid held on for dear life. At length, Imt not until the horses had began to slaekeu their speed from exhaustion, a horseman, who had witnessed the runaway from a distance, (lashed up to the reseut>. At the loO-mile House we. stopped for a late suppcsr, fresh horses, and a few hours' rest. A tire broke out in the kitcdien of the hotcd just as we had got fairly stowed away in a far off corner r)f the se('oud .story, and sound asleep. I awoke first antl arousing my bed-fellow, Mr. Gniy, we jumpedinto our clothes d(mble-(|uick nnd explored our way through a narrow, smoky 2)assage dowji stairs. By hard work the flames were extinguished, but then; was no moi'e .sleep that night. Mr. Gavin Hamilt(Hi, for a long time an agiHit of tlie Hudson Bay Company at their es - treme North ve-steru posts, owns in conn>any with Mr. (IrifHu, besides the in 'ted, a large ranch, a store, flour mill Ac. They <'stimat(! that ,')0(),00l) lbs r)!' grain are raised in the neighbor- hood. A trail hmds sixt \ miles North-east to tin; Forks of Qucsuelle and from thence to the neigh bourhig mining camps. A rapid rid»i of 28 miles the following morning brought us to Soda Creek, A small town situated on tln^ left bank of th" Fraser at the mouth of the creek of that name. Mr. Robert MeLeese, M. P.P., and Mr. P. C. Dunlevy, are the })i iueijtal trader.s. The latter prest!nt(ul me with a potato g:owu near Mud Lake, which weighed three pounds nine ounces. Here we made i'onneetion with tlu! steannu' Victoria, owned by Mr. M<Jjeese» which during the Summer months runs to Quesnelle, about sixty niihfs alxjve, at ))re8ent the extreme North-western steamboatuig upcm the Contintiut. Capt. Lane, eomnnindiug, is a grandson of Gen. Jo. L.ine, of Oregon, and well-known in connection with daring steamboat exploits The naviga- u ble Btretcli of the Fraser abounds in subjects (,'" interest. Numerous parties of Chinamen were seen phicer mining on the bars and benches. Twenty miles out we i)ass Alexandria, an old Fort of the Hudson Bay Company, but now aban- doned, and a few miles beyond, the well-known Australian and Bohanan Ranches, the most extensive gi-ain farms in Northern British Columbia, raising iipwards of 400,000 Ijounds of wheat and oats yearly, and considerable quantities of apples, plums and other fruits. AAvay to the Westward over the teiTaced pine and poplar wooded bluffs lies the Chilcotin Country Which embraces several hundred thousand acres of rolling prairie, undulating, lightly timbered forest plateaus, as yet unoccupied except by a few Indians, and by bands of cattle in Summer. Steaming slowly up the rapid stream, past Castle Rock, Cottonwood Canyon and the Pyramids, at five o'clock, 1'. M., the 22nd, we arrive at Q,uesnelle. The town is verj- pleasantlj- situated on the Jefb bank of the Fraser, at the mouth of the Quesnelle, and contains about fifty white inhabitants, fifty buildings, two hotels, several stores, shops, &c. The Hudson Bay Co., J. R. Skinner, J. C. F., and the firm of Reed & Hudson, carry large stocks of merchandise and do an extensive trade. The Occidental Hotel, Mr. John McLean, ])roprietor, is one of the best in the upper country. Here we resume our journey by stage, and before^ daylight, the 23rd, arc; on the home stretch for The Gold FieMs of Cariboo. Twenty-two years ago the advance of the bold and hardy- prospectors, following u)) the rich diggings of th(^ lower Fraser, penetrated !is far north as the Forks of tlie Quesnelle, Here Keithley struck it rich n])on the creek of tliat name, and then foUowi'd in rapid succ*!Ssion those remarkable discov- eries which have made Cariboo so famous in the histoiy of gold mining. Antler Creek in 18C() and Williams, Lightning, 4 5 Lowheo, Grouse, Mosquito, Sugar, Harvey, Cunuingham, Nels(jn, Burns, and Jack of Clubs, in 18G1, and tlien Stoutn Conklings, McColloms, Beigs, Stevensons, Cliisholm, Van- Winkle, Last Chance and Davis Gulelies in 18G2, poured out their long hidden treasures by the million. The reports of their wonderful wealth spread like wild fire, and miners rushed in by the thousands from all parts of the world. Victoria was like the encampment of an army of 20,000 men, and Yale of 5,000 more. At that time the whole of this im- mense interi(U" region was an almost ujiknown wilderness, without roads, and untrodden except by the native Indian tribes and the yearly pack trains of the Hudson Bay Com- pany. Over the 400 miles from Yale to Cariboo, over the stecsp and perilous Cascades flocked the great e.ager throng thousands on foot, packing their blankets and provisions, fording rivers, wading deep snows, sleeping on the ground, enduring untold hardships by cold and heat, hunger and fatigue, to reach the shining goal. The rugged mtuiutains of Cariboo became a beehive of miners exploring its rivers and creeks. Never were gold- seekers more liberally rewarded. Gold was found in unpre- cedented quantities. Three hundred and forty ounces were taken out by drifting from one set about eight feet by three and a-half feet square in the Sawmill claim, originally taken u]> by Hon. R. Beaven, the ])resent Premier of the Province, iitid his associates, Messrs. R. J. Kennedy and Silas James, and a big, broad-slumldered German named Diller ch;aned up one night with 10'2 lbs. gold as the result of his day's w 'rk ! The aggregate yield of these wondeiful deposits can never \h', known. Men who reached the diggings jienniless, liungr;^ and ragged, left them again in a short time with a mule l(jad of gold dust. For several years from 1801 to 1870, their animal jiroduet is estimated to have ranged from two to fiv(; million dollai-s, maintaining since 1872 a yearly av(>rage of about «me and a half million. But of the millions n^alized immense sums were absorbed by the enormous e.vpenst^ of living and conducting mining operations. The costs of trans- portation alone were so great that strong num earned frcmi $25 and upwards a day packing in sujjplies upon their backs, 4 Provisions sold at almost incredible prices; flour from $1.50 to $2 per lb., moats from $1 to ifl.50, and salt, §1 \h'.v lb. Ihavo mot an editor, Mr. Hollowny, who ])ublislied a paper in Bar- kervilli! in those days, who received .*! ])or (•<ipy for a fivo- ooliunn sluiot. The pf)staf^e on a leti<'i from Victoria to the mines was $1. Building materials wen; correspcmd- ingly high, lumb(U', $'250 per tlumsand, nails, $1 per lb., <fec. As in all great mining canqjs eomjiaratively few eam'ed their riches away with them. Hundi'eds made their tens of thousands, and sank them again in unsuccessful efforts to find areal bonanza. Others, Ixnvildered by their suddenly acquired wejaUli, spent it as freely as if they were in possession of tins philosopher's stone which converts everything it touches into gold. I have heard of such a rain(>r who went into a public house in Victoria, and without provocation, out of a spirit of reckless extravagance, menily to show his (contempt for money, dashed a handfull of twenty dollargold pieces through ft costly mirror and then cof)lly piled them up before the astonished landlord and walked away. Crossing the Cottr)n- wood and ascending Mie mountains alon\; Lightning Creek, through tlu! villages ol" Starley and llichlield, bv ten o'clock we were rattling down the fiimous Williams Creek into Barkerville. It is one of the most interesting collections of human habita- tions ever piled together by the accidents of flood and the fortunes and misfortunes of a gi'eat mining camp. Built in the narrow bed of Williams Creek it has been so frequently submerged by the tailings swe))t down from the hydraulic mines above, that it now stands upon cribs of logs from fifteen to twenty f(!et above the original foundation. When fhe floods break loose, the inhal)itants num their jackscrews and raise their respective buildings, (;ach according to his views of the impending danger. As a result the sidewalks of the to\A7i are a succession of up and down stairs fram one end to the other, with occasional cross walks ehn'ated like suspen- sion bridges. Perfect vigilance and sobriety is required to navigate these streets in broad daylight, which nu'y in some measure account for the temperance habits of the people. 47 Fmiii diu'he. Creek fo Kamloo))'< unit f/imrg/i l/,c North ami South. Thotnjisdii, Ok<iriiiif)iii, iSjuillniachrtii anil Nicofa f'oiri)tnf. Iictuniiiig to ('';iclic Creek. Leiglitoii's st!i<^(^ which mukcH weekly tri])S to the liead of ( )kiiiiiig!Ui Lake via Savoiia'a Imitv iiinl Kainh)o[)s^, ii.ul left tlie day ])revious. 1 theiet'ore staried out on toot six niih s iiji tlie Cache (^reek, Viiliey, previously discrihe*!, and tiien ah)iig the right bank of tlie Thompson, 18 miles fui-th(>r to Savona's Feny At the loot of" Fuinloops Tjake. This poition of th(^ Yallev of the Thompson is about 4 miles in width from foothill to foot- I ill. and consist mainly of rolling grazing lands. .Hands of cattle and hoi'ses we^e Heeii feeding iji all direetious, though most of inc stock ranges in the mountain valh^ys fiom s]iving until till' beginning of winter. Harper, Graves, Willson, Stewart, Saiiford, H(jar, Ujcii, liauies, Piunej, Goten. Craig and Seralin, are tint ])rincipal stoek raisers and fanners in tliis sectimi. Calling at the lir.st house r(>ached in the AJllagi; at the ierry, I found it to be the pleasanj hiMue of Mr. Jaun's LiMghton, post muster, teh'gnn)b operator and pro])rietor of the Kamloo])s stage line. His father-in-law, Mi. Un'ji. kei>ps a, good hotel close by, and is also the owner of a ^iTO-acc lancli. ")()() head of (jalth; and fifty horses. He showed nu; line specimens ol' |)unip- kins, vegetables and fruits grown on his farm and in the ueighboriiood. Mr. John Jan<> Inis a store lu^re, Mr. James Tren a Ij'ac'smith shop and Jann'S Newla.nd tins ferry. At Savonti,' ".'eriy is the beginning of 1 U) miles of steamboat iiaviLiiLion upon the Thompson and tlu'ough a suceesiou of lakes, the Kamlot)[)s, Little Shuswa)) and Shuswa]) Lakes, extending to ^'pallumcheen— "J") mihv-; bom the month of the river of that na,me and within lOj miles of the head of L ikn Okanagan. Three steanuMs, the Peerless, Capt. Tackab(?ry, The Lady DutFerin and 8[)alhiineheen, are ruuniugjipon these waters diu'ing about 7 months t)f the year, from April ta 48 November, wlienov(u- thcf tr.'iffio reijiiires. All of tliom were lip the country and the time of their return l)ei)ifj; (juitt* uncertain, on the 28th I walked thirty miles further to Kamloops. The wagon road, a good one, follows the south shore of Kamloops Lake for a short distance and then turns away through a rolling mountainous country, lightly timljered Avith pine along the summits, with bunch grass on the foot- hills, and wormwood upon the lower slopes. There are occa- sional small lakes, some of them strongly impregnated with alkali. There are but three or four rancshes on this road — Eoper's, of a tlnmsand acres being the most extensive. He has about a thousand head of cattle, and an orchard of apples, pears, plums, cherries, ttc, which has ju'oduced 12,000 pounds of fruit this season. Indian corn reaches maturity here, and melons and tomatoes are grown without difficulty. Kamloops Situated at the forks of the North and South Thom])son is one of the most important places in the east Cascadt; region. It commands the trade of a c()nsideral)le portion of the richest grazing and agricultural sections of the Province, the Nicola, Kamloops, Spallumcheen and Okanagan ccmntry. The Kamloojis district, which lies between the Gold Range of mountains on the east and Savoua's Feny on the west, the north end of Shuswap Lake on the nortii and Okanagan Lake on the soTith, contained, by the returns of 1881, 8,130 horned cattle, 1,108 horses, and 2,000 si '>,ep. About 3,000 acres of land were under cultivation, the average yield ])cr acre l)eing as follows: — Wheat, 1,300 lbs., barley, 1,800 ll)s., oats, 1,500 lbs., peas 2,000, potatoes 1,800, turnips 18,000 and hav 2,000 lbs. The largest stock raisers and farmers are J. B. Graves, Thaddeus Harpia-, Bennett it Lumby, Victor Guillaume, W. J. Iloper, Duck it Pringle, Wm. Jones, Hugh Morton, John Peterscm, L. Campbell, Thomas Sullivan, Thonuis Eoper, Ed. Roberts, "VVm. Fortune, W. J. Howe, A. J. Kirkpatrick, Peter Frazer, James Steele, Herman Wich- ers, Alexander Fortune, Mathew Hutchison, (leorge Lynn .iiid John Edwards. Kamloops was first occujiied by the Hudson Bay Company, their old fort still standing on the right 49 l)iuik of tha river oppoHitc. In those days th(! ludiiiii tril)(\s wvro frequent]}' at Wiir with each other, find tlie servants of tJK! foin]>any liad to keej) a shaij) look out for their scalps. Eosaiia Slnibert, (huightor of Augustus and Rosana Slni- bert, who crossed the mountains from WinnijHg in ISO'i, was the first wliite eliihl born in the ])la<"e. The toMii now eontauis about 40 while residents, exelusive of Indians, a good hotel by Thos. Si)ellman, twogen«!rul stores, the HudKon Bay House, by J. Tait, find J. A. Martx's, M.P.P., (formerly Mara & Wilson's), a bltieksniith siiop b}- A. MeKinnon, a wfigon shoj) and hfirness nifiker. The flour find sfiw mill of the Shuswap Milling Compfiuy is loofited here, Jfimes Melntosh, manfiger. It has a ctijjfieity fin- fifty barrels of flour dtiily find manufac- tures the various gnidesof rough find dressed hind)er. T fim indebted to Mr. Tnnstjdl, Ciovernnient Agent fit Kiimloojjs For much V!iluid)le infornnition concu'rning thfit section. A Ride from Kamloops through the North Thompson Settlement. Till' Thompson Eiver, the principtd tributtiry of the Frfiser, folks tit Kamloops, the north briuu'h heading netir latitude 5o between the Ctinoe lli\ev and the north fork of tli(> Qites- nelle. It is ufivigabh' for light drjiught steamers to PeiiVine, ;i distance of about 125 ii^il 'S from Kamloo])s. One of the most favored routes of the Cauiidian I'jicific luiihoad follows up this streiim by an easy grjide crossing the liocky Moun- tiuus through the Yellow Hefid or Leather Pass. Itflows be- tween mountains from three thou.sjind to six thousand feet in heiglit, generally sparsely wooded with tir, pine find eediir, though containing excellent bunch griiss ranges of considerfible extent. The rolling foot hills fire also covered wi'h bunch grsiss and sage, a line quality known heri' iis worniwood'pi(>vailingon the lowi r slopes Jind benches. Cotton- wood, idder and birch grows .along tiie immediate river banks. The vfdley is fnmi one to two-and-ji-lndf miles i)> width, and th(mgh .specially tuhipted for giii/ing ])nv[;oses eoi.tiiins varitible — griivelly ui)on the the benches, with a fine deep 50 jilluvi!il oil the bottom. The Karnloops Tiidiiiii n^sci v.atioii of about 2I},000 acres at tlic Forks of the Tlioiniisoii com- prises about 2,500 acres of its best arable; lands. The valley has been oceiijiied by the whites since 1^05 and contains at ])rcser.* ten s(>ttlers — Mclvors, Edwards, Sullivan and Kan- ouft", on the left bank and Petcli, ]Mc(^ueen, Gordon, McAuly and Jaiues(<n, on the rij^ht bank. They are engaged ])rinci- pally in raising cattl(>, horses and hogs, their aggregate .stock amounting to about 1,100 head. Sullivan and Edwards have between four and live hundred head each. Mr. Edwards farms upwards of 200 acres of rich bottom land. His wheat yields on an average twentv-ftve bushels ])»>r acr(\ There is room for a few more setth^'s in this valley. Mr. Sullivan says there are good cattle rang<'s in the moiuitain valleys as yet almost untouched. The stock-supporting capacity of this region must, however, be l)ased ujion the extent of the winter feed. This is greater than I had supposed, and sufHeient by the cultivation of tame grasses in the meadows to carrj' a large number of cattle through the severest winters. On the 80th of September, furnished with a good horse by Mi'. Tait of the Hudson Bay Conipanj-, I rode rapidly over a pretty good trail to Jameson's ranch, 17 milt's from Kamloops on the right bank. Mr. Jameson kindly ferried me over the river here wliich is thr(!e hundi'ed yards in width, my horse swimming behind the boat. I T>as hospitably entertained for the night at Sullivan's, returning to the forks the follow- ing morning, crossing the S(juth Thomjjson ujion an Indian fiat boat. Since writing the forgeoitig I have been informed that gold has b(;en found in McAulcy's, Jameson's and Lewis' creeks, and a four-foot vein of lignite coal upon the North Thomjison Indian Keservation, 70 miles from Kam- loops. From Kamloops to Tranquille. On tilt! Jird of October I crossed the Thompson River opposite the Hudson Bay Co.'s store, and rode eight miles westward along the north shore of Kamloops to Tranquille. Low lands and gi-een meadows from one to one-and-a-half miles in width, producing thousands of tons of hay extend 51 tlic wliolc (listiiiu'c on th»! It^ft. TlicHe Vfvri) alive willi dueks iiiid wihl gctisc. A low raiigf of inountaiiis s])arsi'ly wooded with piiu' upon tlu: suniniits, with {^ladiudly sl(ji»ing footliill^ Htreti'h away on the ligiit. There is a baud of over '200 native liorseH living in these numntains belonging to the Hudson Bay Co., said to bo wilder tlian decn-. Tliej fly like tlie wind u])on the aj)i)roac]i of horsemen, but art^ sometimes eaptured bj j)arties of Indians moiwited iqxju their fleetest horses, and also in the winter u])()n snow-shoes, when the snows are deep. TraiKjuilh) is tiie liome of Wm. Fortune and his excellent wife, the former ero.s.sing tlie liockv Mountains in 18fi2 and settling hen; f(mrteen years a^o. Togetiiei' tlu^y have a('((uired a magnificent property, consisting of a splendid ranch (.f 400 acres (stocked with 'iilO head of cattle, 100 horses, 100 liogs and a choice ('and of sheep) a gristmill grinding eiglity sacks of excellent fhmr a day, and a steamboat, The Lady Durt'erin. Tlii' Trantjuille lliver flows through the jjlace aflord- iiigauexceHeiit water })ower, and abundant waterfor iirigation. Mr. Fortium's garden is one of the bt'st I liave seen in the Province, growing in great abundance and ])erfection a long list of fniits, berries and vc>getables, inclutling melons and tomatoes. Learning tliat there was placer Gold Diggings on the Tranquille Accompanied by Mr. F(U'tune 1 wi'ut three ov four miles uji tlie stream, and was much surprised at their extent and pro- duction. From twenty to forty (.'liinameu have mined lieri' for several years and are evidently doijig very well. The lirst one whom we asked to sjiow us some gold, brought out scvera] ])ackages containing an ounce or more in each. Tliey build log cabins, cultivate gardens, raise chicki'Us and li\T lieic the year round on the best the country atTonls. An oven \\as shown me maile of rocks and nni'i. wheic they occasiiiiially ro.ist a whole hog, usually on their national 'lolidays. Mr. Fortune says that they fre(|iienl]y go home to (Miina and bring back their relatives with them. Ibturning, Mrs. Fortune spread an evce'.lci^it hnicli of home productions, — meat, bread, l)utter, jams, jellies, tarts, fruits, etc. On the wall of the sitting room 1 noticed a first premium dij)loma 62 fiwiinlcd Mr. Fortune \>y tlic N«)rtli and Soiitl. Sfianicli An- nual HxliiMtion of 187!) for tlonr of liis innnufuftun'. Joliu Jolmson an einploytt^ of the Huilson Buy Co., wlio lias Ix'i'ii in British Coluniliia for tliirly years, took cliiuf^e of my horse at the Forks and paddled me mross to Kamloops in a du{;-out. He remendx'rs but four sevi re winters during his long residence in the Province. The Okaiiagan Spalluracheeu Country. From. Kamloops to Okanagan Mission- nin Duck t6 Pr ingle's Grand Prairie, and Okanoijau , / , nrning through the SpaUnmcheen, Salmon River, lioiind and Pleasant Falleys. On the 4th of October I resumed my journey through the south-easteni portion of the Province. For eighteen miles to Duck & Pringle's ranch av(; followed up th(! South Thomp- son, passing through a fine pastm-al and wheat growing country. The valley proper is from one to one-and-a-half miles hi width, flj^.nked by mountains, with giadually n^cf^ding foothills eovenjd with bunch grass. From thence we rodo tnghteen niih'S south-eastward, over smooth, rolling moun/ taias from 1,550 to 2,600 feet in height, to Grand Prairie. Thesfi. mountains are thiidy wooded with fir and pine, and interspi-rsed with lakes, bordered by meadows and mjirsjies. Grand Prairie is a rich and pleasant opening, about fourniilesi long, and two ndles wide, o(!cupied by four settlers, Kirkjmt- rick, J. Pringle, Jones, and the Ingrajn heirs. There is room in tlif.' light pine lands bordering it, for a dozen more families. Proceeding early on the morning of the 5th, we soon cro««.Hl, and then followed down, the Salmon River for upwards of 5;{ twenty niilcH, tlirougli a loUinj^, piiio timbered Hection. This Htrciim tlii'ii flows North into Shuswup Liik«% its lower viilloy cont.'iining sevenil tliousaiidiu'resof open, fertile furniing liui'l. (^ontiniiiii}^ soutli-eiisterly, ten miles luin^'s us to O'Keofe's find Greenhow's ranches, at the luiad of Oknnagan Lake. Thi'V came here fourteen years ago with limited means, and and are now the owimrs, each, of 2,U0()-acre ranches, and seven or eight hundn^d heail of (tattle, worth twenty-tivo or thirty thousand dollars. We are now in the Okaiiagan Country, Which, togefhor with tint near lying valh^ys of Siiallunn-hoen and Salmon l{iv(>r, embraces the I iirgest scojx- of pastoral and arable lands in one body, in south-eastern Uritish CV)lund)ia. Okanagan Lake, the source of the Okanagaii liiver, a tributary of the Colund)ia, is about eighty miles iuleng'di, and from two to three mih^s in width. A .survey has just been completed fo)' a canal connecting the lake with the navigable waters of the Spallumcheen, only about twtmty miles from its head. Its construction wonld extend steamboat navigation to within thirty miles of the Btnuuhiry Line or 49tli paralU;!, and greatly ])r(jmote the rapid settlement and developement of naturally the ridiest part of the interior of the Province. Reaching O'Keef 'sat notm and lunching hastily, I walked four milcis, iijiid then mounting a powerful horse, gallo])ed thirty-eight miles South on the East side of Okanagan Lake and took suj)per at seven o'clot^k with Eli Leqnim(3 at The Okanagan Mission. I rod(! flirongh the moat magnificent pastoral and farming region I have seen since visiting tln^ Walla Wallii Valley of AVashington. On the right a low range of mountains about fimr mUes in Avidth reaching to the Eastern shore of the liiike extends most < »f tJie way. They are corered with bunch grass from foot-hill to sum- mit, and though lightly jiiue tind)(U-ed afford excollent sumjncvf grazing. Immediatc'ly on the left lie a chain of beautiful r^i lakes, cxtontling South ward over twenty milts. First S'.vau Lake, surrounded by extensive meadows, aiid s])l('ndid wheat lands nith a grand stretch of rolling foot-hill grazing lands> lying to the .Soutli-(!astward. Over this section nnd(;r charge of Mr. Vance range the six hundred horses of Hon. F. J. Barnard, M. P., the most extensive breeder of fine hor.ses in the Province. Here are also the ranches of Lawson, Andrew > and Lyons. Next comes Long Lake, eight or ten miles in length, and about a milt! in Avidtli with a larg<; scope of goqd grazing country surrounding its Northern shores. To the East lies the Cherry Creek settlement, the home of Hon.G. Forbes Vernon, and Girouard, Deloir, Ellison, Walker, Keefer, Duer, P. Bissett, Louis Christian and Williams. A narrow strip of land known as the Railway separates Long Lake from Wood Lake. Tom Wood has a ram-h and six hundred head of cattle on its South side. Now we reach the head of the Mission or Okanagan Valley, Which is about fifteen miles long, and from three to four miles in width. It was first occupied by Peter Lequime and \vife> who came into the valley almost dead broke from Rock Creek, twenty-two years ago, and are now the owiKa's of a thousand- acre ranch, 1000 ln-ad ui catth', a store, gttod h(;uses, anil barns and thousands of cash besides. The soil is a rich sedi- mentary deposit growing enormous crops of cerralsand roots. Mr. Lecpiime says his wlnsat averages from twcnty-llve to thirty bushels per acre. He showed ui<' a [totato which turned the fjcale at fopr pounds. Fruit, melons and tomatoes grow finely, and Lidian corn usually nsaches maturity. I'he cli- n.ate is healthy, water good, and fuel abundant. The lakes abound with fish, wihl g(U'S(! and duck. Then' ar(! about twenty white s(ittl(!rs in the valley, engaged principally in stock raising, though farming si^veral hundred acres. First lielow Woods' is the Postill Ranch of 800 acres, beautifully situated upon Postill Aii'.Iii'. They have 400 head of cattle, 100 horses and cultivate 150 acres. Tlieii' neighbor, Fulton, was digging potatoes, wliicli he estinnxtiul wtmld yield over ."iOO bushels to the acre. He jiad farmed in the East .and in (\'difornia, t) and nover saw kucIi a crop. Tlicn follow tlio raiiohus (jf Jones, Wlu'lan, Fulton, McGinnis, Simpson, Laccrto, Buclicric, Brant, Moort>, Simpson, Ortolan, Jos. Christian, Eli Lv- quimc, Mi;Dougal and Hayward, iu tbe order named. Two settlers, Fronson and Brewer, live in Piiest Valley and tlntu> white nii'n, Major Squires, C'oj>p and H(irniann, are ■j;old mining on Mission Creek, alxnit seven miles above the Mission. There are about 4.000 head of cattle iu the Okan- agan Valley, and 6,000 in the seventy ndh'S of country be- tween the Mis.sion and the Boundary Lim;. The Govennneiit wagon road termiuaies at Lequimes, from whence pack trails lead over the mountains to the Custom House, and 100 miles to Hope on the Frasev Hiver. >.. the morning of the Gth, I rode forty-two miles to O'Keef's, horseback, tlu'U live miles b}' wagon, when a walk of seven miles brought me to Bennett it Lumby's ranch, in the Spalliimcheen Valley, The choicest l)ody of farming lands in this whol(> region. The S[iallumcheen or Slniswap River rises in the Gold lla,nge of mountains, and flows into Shuswap Lake, and from thence into the South Thompson. It is navigable for steamboat to Fortune's Banc h, abtnit 2;") miles from its mouth. Undu- lating lightly timbennl pine lands, several miles in width, ex- tend nearly the whole distance. There arc occasional small openings, the la-gest, occupied by Mr. Dunbnr, containing upwards of three hundred acres. He is the only stittier upon this large tract, which will furnish farms for at least t)ne hun- dred families. The soil is a deep clay loani. Mud the I'ainfall sufVu'ient to secure good crops without urigati )n. But the most beautiful portion of the Valley of tlie k.>[>allumcln!en doo.-. not lie along tl'.e river, but beginning at Sp.illuu.v'l.c;.*! Land- ing extends south for fifteen miles, with an average width of 2\ miles. It contains about 3,000 iicres of level jn'airie opening, exclusivt; of Pleasant Valley ami Hound l^i'airii', comprised within the .'■■anu' valky but sc^parated by narrow belts of pine. The soil is a deep clayey loam, producing on an average one ton of wiieat per acre an(J abundant cro|)s o{ iiil the cereals and roots grown u; ihis latitmlo, ami without 56 irrigiitioii. The climate is salubrious, water gouil, winters of modci'ate severity, the suow fall usually about two feet in depth. Mr. A. L. Fortune and Mark Y'. 'lis, its first settler.s. in 18G(j took possession of the fine farm of 320 acres now owned by the former. He cultivates 200 acres, and has 200 head of cattle, thirty horses, ifec. Tiiere are about 1,500 acres improved in the valley, Herman Wichi'rs, E. M. Furstenau, Frank Young, G. J. Wallace, A. Shubert, H. Swanscm, W. Miirray, D. Graham, J. W. Powell, and the Lambly brothers being its other occupants. Upon the Bennett & Lumby Farm, Owned by Messrs. Pieston Beimett Si Moses Lumby, are car ried on the most extensive farming operations in this part of the Province. Their ranch (jomprises 1,;]00 acres, beautifully situated in tiie heart of the valley between pine wooded moun- tains on the East and a low range of hills on the Wi'st. Over 400 acres is arable land, — a splendid level tract all in (me body, "well fenced and nearly all under cultivation. There is also a fine meadow of 100 acres adjoining, -which i)roduces from three to foiu' tt)ns of hay to the acre. A belt ui young pine and poplar extends along the eastern borders at the base of the mountains. Thnmgh it fiows a living stream of good water, upon which, in a plcjasant grove of pine, are their comfortable and commodious farm houses and l)arns. They have raised about 1^20 tons of wheat this season, the average yield being over one ton to the acre. Tiie most improved agricultural implements an; u.sed, Osborne's harvester, two gang-plows, oni' sulky plow, seeil drills, etc. The SpallumeheiUi and Okanagan Canal will run the whole length of the ranch without touching the arable ])or- tion, and alford extraordinary facilities for tlu' shipment of its produce. It is, however, only tiu'e(^ miles from the Spid- lumcheen Landing, where steamboats iiin during six or seven UKHiths of the year. Mr. Lumby, an exceptionally well in- formed and cultured gentleman, n!sid(!s on the place and gives it his per.sonal supervision, assisted by Mr. Matthew Hutchin- son. Here I liad the plcasiu'e of meeting Mr. Bownuin, who is engaged in a geological survey of this icgion. He is 5-7 accompauietl by Mr. G. Brown, sm artist from Sau Francisco, who is ni«<^lfii)g very fine sketches in oil of its incomparable scenery. Mr Brown is the pioneer in the line of oil sketches in the Province, and his work merits the liberal patronage of the people. A Bide, Through the Salmon River Valley, Oknnagan Indian Reservation, ami Round Prairie, An Interview tmth His Excellency the Governor- General , the Martinis of Lome. The Salmon River, rising in the mountains South-east of Kamloops, in its lower course runs parallel with and about ten miles from the Shuswap River, emptying into the Lake of that uanu\ It embraces fiom three to four thousand acres of pniirie and rolling foot-hills, and a much larger body of open pine land easily cleared for farming jjurposes. The soil is a deei> dark sandy loam, producing lai'ge crops without irrigation. It is occu])i'.Hl by the Stcude Brothers, ( James, Thomas, and W. B. ) Matthew Hutchinson, Geo. L^'un, Donald Matthews, A. C. AV'ilkie, and Thomas James, 320 acres eacli. Tliey cultivate altogc^ther about 400 ac-nss, and raise a few cattlt!, horses and hogs. Mr. James Steele has the best improved farm in the valley, and twenty-eight thorough-bred shorthorns. Mr. A. Postill is building a saw-mill on Deep O'-eek, >\ii(>i'e there is a (iOnsiderable body of good pine timber. Galloping through it on the morning of October IHh, I over- took AVni. Richardson who was l)lazing t\w ti'ees from his ranch to the main road. He thought it was the best country in the world for a ])oor man. Landing at Burrard Inlet four y<'ars ago witli ont^ dollar jiud a half, he had since earned by his own labor one farm of 1(50 acres, partly paid for 'ii'l(i acres more, has a small band of horstis, and is entirely out of debt. A little further on my horse suddenly sprang forward, and a small shepherd dog ran l»y at full speed. Looking l)ack ex- 68 pecting that his owner was lollowing, great was ray surprise to see a coyote wolf in full pursuit. Ho stopped Avhen about three rods oif, sat down on liis haunches, as if knowing that I was unarmed and perfectly harmless. When 1 ivdvanced he retreated deliberately, sitting down again when in climb- ing a very steep hill I halted to dismount. Reaching the summit I gave chase at full speed, Imt tiie cunning animal by choosing tlie roughest ground, escajied. I have seen a shep- herd dog and Avolf in company once before standing together upon the banks of the Bio Grande in Mexico. Riding on 14 miles to the heaii of the valley and turning Eastward, I followed a good trail seven miles across the Okanagan Indi.an reserva- tion, a rich bunch gi-ass range capable of suppoiiing 500 or 600 head of cattle, but unoccupied except by a few Indian ponies. Descending the foot-hills toward Lake Okanagan, The Governor-General, the Marquis of Lome, And party, ex-I.ieut.-Govenor Trutch and Col. DeWinton, were seen shooting in the distance. The Marquis is very popular with the })eo])le who came flocking in from the remot- est settlements to see him. To use their owii language the Mar- quis is not in the least "stuck up," but chats as freely with the poor as with the rich and titled. Oneofthe S(>ttk;rstold me, Avith gi'eat satisfaction, that he luul a talk with the Marcjuis Avitli- out knowing who he was, and when he asked liim his name the Governor replied simply " Lome." His Excellency expressed himself to me as highly pleased with what he had seen in the Province, and seemed to take a deep interest in its further dev<!lopment and prosperity. Mr, CampbiiU of the Governor-General's staff, Avho accompanied the Earl of Dufferin on his visit to the Province, was busy taking notes upon the resources of the country. He thinks the scenery of British Columbia is the grandest and most beautiful he has ever seen. I returned through Round Prairie, a very beauti- ful o])i'ning of 500 acres, bc^twcen the Salmon Rirer and Spallumcheen Valleya. Messrs. Jones, Kirkpatrick, Priudle, Clemeutsou and Shubert, have secured this choice location. From the Spallumcheen Valley to Messrs. Barnard ami Vernoits Ranches, via Pleasant Valley. From Messrs. Bennett and Lumby's farm to Mr. Vernon's is about twenty-five miles. En route I passed throiigh Pleasant Valley a fine level prairie opening of 800 or 900 acres, lying a mile and a half to the Eastward of the main road. In reaching it by a short cut across a swamp my horse suddenly sank belly deep, when, dismounting, we both floundered out covered with mud and water. I found the settlers, Clinton & Murray, Edward Thorno, Herman Wichers, Donald Graham and the Croziers in the midst of threshing- Mr. Murray gave me the yearly product of his cereals for a term of six j'ears, which shows an average yield of twenty- eight bushels per acre. Being quite wet, to avoid taking coldi I left my horse at O'Keef 's, and proceeded from thence on foot. Four miles Southeast of the head of Lake Okanagan, I took a trail loading along the East side of Swan Lake. At least A Thousand Wild Geese Were standing together upon the slicu-e. Two or three miles beyond, darkness overtook me, and after two hours' unsuccess- ful search among the foot-hills for Vance's, wet to my waist) I found shelter in the cabin of a neighbm'ing settler. It con- tained a single room already occupied by two Avhite men, two Indian women and their babes. But in the smallest house in tliis countiy, as in a stage-coach or street-car, there is always I'ooni for oiu' more, uid after rijiging and drying out for an hour before a roaring fire I laid down u}ion a mattress on the floor until daylight. E:; y in the morning I reached Hon. F. J. Barnard's Horse Ranch. And saw upwards of 400 of his 700 horses now on the range. Sired by Belmont, Morgan, and Norman, stallions, tliey are the finest animals I have seen in the Provinces. Mr. Vance, for 14 years manager of the ranch, says that they subsist throughout the year upon the native grasses and have suffered 60 from cold and scarcity of feed only one winter during that period. In view of tlie early completion of tlie Canadian Pacific Railway along over 100 miles of the route of the British Columbia Express service for which they have been raised, a portion of them will probably be sold the ensuing year. Five mili's further over a rich rolling country, com- prising several thousand acres of excellent wheat land, brought me to Hon. G. Forbes Vernon's Banch. It contains 2,500 acres, beautifully situated, between the mountains upon Coldstream, which flows into Long Lake. Near here two coyotes came leisurely down from tne foot-hills and circling round me within a short distance, returned up the mountains. They are quite numerous, and catch large numbers of small pigs and occasionally a young calf. From Sjxdlumc/iecn to Kamloops by Steamer, throwjli the Little ami Biy Shuswap Lakes and down the South Thompson. From the present head of navigation on the Spallum- cheen River to Kamloops is about 1*25 miles. As previously stt.^ed, the building of a canal twenty miles in length fi-om Spallumcheen to the head of Lake Okanagan would extend navigation over eighty miles further through the heart of the richest portion of the interior of the Province. The surface and soil of the country through which it Avould pass is very favcmrable for its cheap construction. On the 16th of Octo- ber, having sxhausted the time at my disposal for examinuig the Okanagan and Spallumcheen country, I took the steamer Spallumcheen for Kamloo])s. The smallest of the three ninning upcm the upper waters, she is Jiot of oceanic dimensions and being built exclusively for carrying freight, her passenger accommodations are very limited. But her deficiencies in this respect were the souret! of amusement rather than dis- comfort. Capt. Meananteu, who was also engineer, mate and pilot, kindly shared his bunli with me, and wlien duties on 61 (lock called away the Indian boy cook and interfered with the rt'gnlar service of meals, I officiated as assistant, and so we got along splendidly. For two days we slowly steamed through a magnificent stretch of lakes and livers, amidst scenery of exceeding grandeur and beauty. For a distance of twenty-five miles down the Spallumcheen, both banks are lightly wooded with fir, cedar, white pine, poplar and birch. Hazel bushes and highbush cranberries are seen gi-owing near the river. The valley is from one to three and a half miles iu width, surface generally level, soil a rich clay loam and allu- vial, and will afford homes for more than 100 families. Some portions will require dyking to the height of about three feet for protection against overflow. Should the Canadian Pacific llailway adopt the South Thompson and Kicking Horse Pass route these lands will soon become quite valuable. When about half way down the Spallumcheen A Deer was seen Swimming across ahead of us. Giving chase, the frightened animal instead of turning back to the shore and escaping, plunged on directly in our course, until standing on the bow of the boat, armed with a long pole, I was nl)le to strike it a fatal blow on the head. Our two Indian liel])ers sprang into a canoe, seized and threw it on deck, an acceptable addition to our larder. Swan, wild geese, and duck were seen at almost every turn, but there were no firearms, not even a pistol on board. We tied up for the night on the shore of the Lake, opposite a logging camp. The best timber foiindin this part of the Pro- vince grows upon the borders of these lakes and of the streams flowing into them. A party of Indians were catchuig fish by toich light near us. Salmon and trout were so numerous that I could count them by the dozens from the boat as we advanced in the morning. Reaching the Thompson River, the mountains recede more gi'adually, the bare rolling foot-hills affording considerable grazing, and occasional benches of fwi'able lands, chiefly occupied by Indians. 62 From Kamloops to Cook's Fernj, through the Nicola Country. Tho "Nicola River, a tributary of the Thompson, is the principal rftream draining the mountainons region lying be- tween the latter, and Lake Okanagan on the East. The valley is naiTow, and disappointing for the first twenty miles, but then spreads out over the rolling foot-hills and mountains, embracing one of the finest bodies of grazing country in the Province. It contains a population of about six hundred, four hundred of which are Indians, the former being engaged chiefly in stock-raising, owning at present about 8,500 cattle, 1,500 horses, and 1,200 sheep. The clim<ate and soU are also well adapted to the growth of grain and root crops, ujjwards of a thousand acres being under cultivation by irrigation. A fair wagon road trail extends all the way from Kam- loops to Cook's Ferry, the distance being a little over one hundred miles. With the exception of John Gilmore's ex- press, which runs up the valley about half way from the Feny with H.M.'s mails, it is not traversed by any regular convey- ance. Starting out early on the morning of October 18th, for nearly twenty miles I gradually ascended the summit of the Thompson-Nicola divide through rich, rolling bunch gi-ass ranges, occupied by Messrs. McConnell, McLeod, Jones, Newman, and others. Tli(m descending Lake River, the head waters of the Nicola, through Fraser's and Scott's ranches, I stopped a few moments at Mr. William Palmer's dairy farm. He milks thirty-five cows, churns by water-power, and makes an excellent quality of butter and very good cheese, the former selling readily for 40 and the latter at 20 cts. per pound. From thence I look a trail several miles over a spur of the mountain, leaving the fine ranches of the Moore Brothers on the right. Soon I reach the head of Nicola Lake, a beautiful l)ody of water extending down the vall(\v for fourteen mih^s, with an average width of about one mile. The little village of Quilchanna, consisting of Joseph Blackbourne's Hotel, Edward O'Rourke's store, Richard O'Rourke's blacksmith shop, and P. L. Anderson's stcnv, is situattnl on the East side. A. VanYolkenburgh owns a splendid 2,0()0-acre ranch here, stocked with 900 head of cattle, and Blackbourne, John Ham- 68 iltou, George C. Bent, John Gilinore, Sarauol Wasloy, Bvron Eiinishaw, and Patrick Killroy, other excellent ranges in this neighborhood. The Douglas Lake country, lying to the Eastward, con- tains a considerable extent of choice pastoral lands, owned by C. M. Beak, Hugh Murray, L. Guichon, T. Richardson, Mcllae Brothers and others. It is said that one of its most prosperous stock-raisers recently wedded a lady from the Golden State, and started with her for his ranch. The fair bride had been led either by the overdrawn statements of her anxious lover, or the natural fancies of a youthful, inex- perienced maiden, to expect to be ushered into a mansion house l)ecoming the possessor of such large bands of fat cattle and wide areas of rich pasturage. Now it is well known that some of these cattle Lords dwell in habitations which would not be considered first class for any purpose, — single room, dirt floor, dirt roof, one window, low, small, dirty log cabins, where, in the dim light of a tallow candle, they make their slap-jacks, as I have seen them, on the top of a dirty stove. The happy couple, after a splendid ride through the beautifid country, halt before a rough pile of logs, having the appear- ance of a stable. " What is this ?" the bride asked. "This is my home — onr home," replied the bridegroom. "Home! Home ! ! You — you cruel deceiver, you call that miser- able hovel o«r Aomf^!'' It may do for your home, but it will never be iiune," she exclaimed with dramatic (;niphasis, and in spite of all entreaties, left him then and there and returned to the Sunny South. Nine miles further do^vn the now narrow- ing valley brings me to Nicola, Its principal town. It is pleasantly situated near the foot of the lake and comprises a neat little church and school-house, Pettit & Co.'s store, George Fenson's flour and saw-mill, and several private residences. Leaving Nicola, the valley broadens again for several miles, stretching away across the river bottoms and over the Westward slopes of the momi- tains. John Clapporton, A. D. G. Armitage, Paul Gillie, Edwin Dalley, John Chartres, Wm. Chartres, Wm. Voght and 64 Alexander Coiitlio are the principal s(>ttlers of this section. The latter has one of the best places in the interior. From thence the valley ra})i(lly narrows, and below the Woodward fiirnis and mills, to less than a mile in width. Hanked by pre- cipitiHis, thinly pine wooded ii'cnuitains. There are sunill tracts of arable and irrigable lands, chiefly occnpied by In- dians, James Phair, proprietor of the 22-mile house — a ver}' comfoi-table, home-like inn— being the only white settler for the last twenty-five miles. I am informed by Mr. Thaddeus Harper and others, that there is a six-foot vein of good bitu- minous coal in the central portion of the valley, easily acces- sible. TRIP NUMltEIl THREE. From Victoria to Burrard Inlet upon the steamer Alexander, Capt. Donald Urqiiltart, CommaiuUiK/. A Visit to Port Afoody, the Momhjville and Ilastinfjs Satv-mills, Granville, ami the Indian Villages, Returnimj via Departure Bay and Nanaimo. Bound Trip, 215 3liles. On Board Steamer Alexander, November 11th, 1882. Burrard Inlet, an arm of the Gulf of Georgia, extends about twelve miles inland from the entrance, btitween Points Grey and Atkinson. Port Moody, on this harbor, lias been selected as the Pacific terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway. Every(m(> familiar with the topography of the North-west coast, and the character of its sea approaches, will recognize the wisdom of the choice. The Inlet is a per- fect land-locked harbor, with excellent anchorage and easily accessible, in all kinds of weather, for the largest ships afloat. It is situated about eighty 4ive miles from Victoria, six miles from New Westminster, and thirty-six miles from Vancouver Island at Nanaimo. Immediately bordering its shores ai'e VICTOUIA AND IU:Klt\i;i) [\Lr:T ADVEHTIHEMFilXTS E. M, lOHKSON, Notary Public, Convcvanccr, Real I'State Aucnt. .hjciit for ilic Vi''ni<-ij)(il Oirucrs of flir I'nrf .]/()<)(/// To/r//s//i', I In- Term ill lis nj' llic Cii mill ill II r<icijir Hii ilim ij. .Ill Triiiisiirl inns ill Liiml ('.vjtcdiHiiiishj cjf'i'rii'il Loiiiis nil ,Vnrlt>(i<J«' iiml nUirr <• •nilnhlr Sfcii- I'ilij A'i'a'niicli'd III Ciirri'iil Jtdli's. Miijis II ml nil iiij'nrimilinii ciiii l>f nhlniiicd III Ojjirc, lliislinii Shi'i'l, nr.vl JUi iik nj' 11. ('., ] 'irinriii. rosto/firr Bn.Y ISH. Cnrri'spnmlrm'i' rrnmiillii .llli'iiilcl In The Port Moody Hotel. Port Moody, B, C, JJiWlS y. BOXSUN, ■ PROPRIliTOR. SAV(JNA'HFKUUY, KAMIiOOrH, OKANAdAN .V NICOLA /U)VTH. KA ]\IL OOrS ILXPRESS Carry/ iti^- //. M. Mails, /eaves Cache Creek for Okati- ai>aii Mission every Tuesday on arrival of mails from Victoria. Passengers anil Freinlil put t/ironi^h on time, (ieneral lix press Bus- iness, ('/largrs Moderate. JA.yfES B. LlifGIITON, ■ PROPRIETOR COSMOPOLITAN HOTEL,' K AM LOO PS, B. C. The Bast Hotel in the Interior. HuDHON Bay Housk, Creu'l Morch'dHo, John Tiiit, J. C. F. J. A. Maha, Clfiieml Morcliiuulise. Maka k AVilson'h StoHinboat Liiui. Aiu'HinAi.n McKinnon, Gcncial Blacksmith and Wagon Maker. Shvhwai' Miij.ino Co., Kainloopw, Janu!S Mclnto.sli, Proprietor. WiLiJAM. Fortune, Flour and Sawmill, and Stoamor Lady Dufferin, Tranciuillt!. CoiiNEiiius O'Keefe, Cu'iioral Mercliaiidise, Okaiiagan Lako. Thomah Gheenhow, Q(>mral Meri'liundiso, Okanagan Lako. El.I Lequime, General Mercliajidise, Okanagan Mission. E. O'RouRKE, Geniaal Menrliandise, Niciola Valley. lllcilAUiJ O'RouKKK, General Blacksmith, Nicola Valley. 1*. L. A.NiJEHsoN, General Merchandise, Nicola Valley. John Hamilton, Horse Dealer, Nicola Valli'y. NiccLA Lake House, Joseph Blackbouni, Propri(!tor. Jo'iN GiLMOiiE, Stock Ran(!h, and Nicola and Spence's Bridge Express, Nicola. Nicola Flouk ct Sawmill, G. Fensom, Proprietor. Petit k Co., General Merdiandisi;, Nicola, Valley, Nicola. C. M. Beak, Stoc^k-raiser, Nicola Valley. John Chaktues, Stock- raiser. Farmer, Nicola Valh^y. Alex. (Joutlie, Gen. Mdse, Stock-raist.r, Nicola Valley. II. M. WooDWAKD, Flour and Sawmill, liosedale, Nicola Val. 22-MlU^ House, James Phaiv Pro., Nicola Valley. 65 the largest bodios of valuable fir timber in the Province. Hero groat saw-mills have been in operaticm since 1865, ex- porting immense quantities of timber, direct to all the princi- pal eastern ports of the world. Steam tugs have been emph)yed towing back and forth tlie numeroui ; fleet of vessels engaged in this trade ; of these, the Alexander,. Capt. Donald Urquhart, commanding, is the lai"gest, finest and most powerful on the Pacific coast. She was built at Port Essington, near the mouth of the Skeena, in 1870, and is 180 feet in length, twenty- seven feet wide, with two 400-horse power engines. Leaving the fine harV)or of Esquimalt on the evenmg of the 9th, with two ships in tow, she steamed along easily through the Straits and across the Gulf at the rate of eight miles an hour. At daybreak the following morning we were hep.ding directly for a lofty snow-capped ])eak of the mainland, be- neath which flashed the brilliant light of Point Atkinson. The dark outlines of the grand old mountains were clearly defined against the cloudless starlit sky. Just before round- ing Point Gray the rising sun gilded the snow covered sum- mit of Mount Baker, and of the Cascade Range. A large black whale is rolling and spouting within rifle range on the right. Entering the inlet, Indian villages are seen on tlie shores, and two Indians paddle by, making the woods ring with their salutations. A dense forest of Douglas pine reaches down to the water' s edge, except where leveled by the axe of the lumberman. We leave the ships a little beyond English Bay, and run alongside the wharf of The Easting's Sawmill Company. This firm are manufacturing about fifteen million feet of lumber annually, most of which is shipped to Chinese, Austra- lian and South American ports. Foui- foreign ships were waiting for their cargoes. The comi)auy own largo tracts of the choicest Douglas })iue, and frequently fill requisitions for enormous sticks of timV)or, some twenty-six inches scpiare and 110 feet in length, and forty-two inches at the base and 120 feet long. The pleasant village of Granville lies adjoining the Hastings Mills. It had strong expectations of securing the 66 prize which has falleu to Port Mo<>dy. Cr(jssing the Iiilet to the North side, ubout six luih^s from tlie entrance, we dis- charge freight at the wharf of the Moodyville Sawmill Compaay The moat extensive manufacturers and exporters of himber on the coast, North of Puget Sound. Their great mill, fur- nished with, ten electric lights for night work, completely equipped with double circular and gang saws, edgers, scantling, planing, mvl lathe machines, and employing a huii(h'ed men, were cutting up huge logs at the rate of from 75 to 100 thou- sand feet daily, or from 20 to 25 million feet a year. Quiti; a fleet of ships lay waiting iov their cargoes for China, Japan, An.stralia, and the West Coast of South America. The town ^vith its mill, machine; shop, store, hotel, l>oarding house, and uumerous dwellings, and the shipping in front, presented tin; most hiteresting scene of activity on the Inlet. The con>pany own large bodies of the best timlK^r in this regicm, and have about 100 men logging in their several camps. They obtain the largest and finest specimens of fir on Howe Sound, Mud Bay and Jervis Inlet, furnishing almost any size required. Mr. Hickey, ciii'^f engineer of the steamer Alexiindcv, measured one; of the:>i A\hich was seven feet six inches through at the butt and six feet and six iiuhes fifty feet therefro n, five feet and four inch«!S 100 feet up, and five feet m diame ,er 130 feet from its base. Tlie.se mills areewned by Welch it Co. of San Francisco, Mr. George B. Springer being their mana- ger at Moodyville, and Welch, Bithet <fe Co. theu" agents at Victoria. i;<>tnrniiig we cross the Gulf, about thirty- six miles, to Departure Bay, arriving just as the steam collier Barnard Castle is .starting for San Francisco. After coaling from the North Wellington mine the captain runs down three miles to Nanaimo, The principal mining city of the great coal fields of Van- vouver and the home of Robert Diuisnniir Esq., M. P. P., tlu^r largest o\vner. It is surrounded l)y tlu; Wellington, Newcastle and Vancouver coal mines, the wst productive in G7 tlu' Province, their a,gf:;fegate annual output amountin^^ to about '210,000 tons. A fint; bark, the first vessel built here, was nearly ready for launcihing. The suburbs of the city were alive witii Tndians gathering from far and near to engage in the festivities of a grant! potlatch. TBir NUMBEll FOUR. From Vidorid to Port Moody, tlit Terminus of flw Canudtan Paeljic Ita'dway, via Neiv IVebimiiister. Hound Trijj, 164 mdes. From MooJyville, the farthest point reaohed at Bur- rard Inlet by the Alexander on the 10th inst., I could only obtain a distant and unsatisfactory \dcw of the situation of Port Moody. I therefore proceeded to New Westminster by steamer, and from ther ce walked six miles U) the Inlet. Most of the way, great fires have swept through, and nearly destroyed the once magnificent forest. A few giant trees re- main, a Douglas fir \i liicli I measured girting '.i'd feet, and a di'ad cedar from which the bark had Ijeen burned measuring 47.^ feet in circumference four feet from the base. About a mile in an old Indian <^anoewitli Peter Calder, brought me to the town.site of Port Moody. It is situated on the South side, near the head of the Inlet, a beautiful sheet of water so perfectly sheltered on all sides by a thick fon-st growtii that it may be safely navigated in stormy weather by tin; smallest craft. High mountains i-ise abru[>tly on the North, the Scmtliern shore receduig gradually over rolling timber lands. Tliis is the favorite abode of the mouutaiti sheep, andbear.sare so numerous that the\ are freijuently caught stealing from the mess tents of t]u> railway camps. A force of 7")0 men under the sujK'Hn- teiuU'nco of Mr. Albert J. Hill, Assistant Engineer of the 68 C.P.R.E., were at work preparing the terminal facilities of the great railway which reaches the tif^*^ waters of the Pacific hei-e. An immense wharf, having a frontage of 1 .324 feet, and requiring over 20,000 piles for its construction, wasi approach- ing c(jiupletion. The warehouse is 210 feet long and 48 feet wide, and accessible at low tide for ships drawing 24 feet of water. Grading for the road-bed was being pushed with all possible vigor. Four ships loaded with raih-oiwl u-on are now on their way here from England. Mr. Hill and his wife — the first lady resident of Port Moody — were just commencing housekt't-ping in the second st> • -"f the new railway offices and depot. It requires no pro h "^ ; foresight to predict with reasonable certainty regarding the liitme of the terminus of such a great railway, stretching from ocean to ocean across over 2,500 miles of countiy, embracing hundi'eds of millions of acres of the choicest pastoral and wheat growing lands in America. Fleets of sl.ips will soon be sailing between Port Moody and Eastern ports, laden with the exports and imports of a gieat commerce; lines of steamers will run regularly from thence to Victoria and the cities of Puget Sound and of the fionth Pacific ; connection with the Northern Pacific and Ae American railwaj- system will doubtless be made, and Bsachine shops, car-works, 3hii>yards, and other miin\ifactur- ing industries estabhshed at an early day. TUIP NUMBER FIVE. From Victoria to North Saanich. Rouiul Trip, 42 miles. Saanich is (me of the most important farming settlements on Vancouver Island. It is situated \xpon a narrow peninsula from three to six miles in width, stirrounded by the water.", of the Haro Straits and of the Finlay.sou Inlet or Saanich Arm, which extends Soutliward for about twenty miles nearly to the harbor of Estiuimult. Tliougli this portion of Vancouver, like most of its surface, is generally covered wit! a thick forest of fir and spruce, it comprises several thousand acres 69 )s of cific and )ach- feet )et of all of prairie openings. Botli soil and climate are well adapted to the growth of large crops of hhj, grain, roots, hops, &c. There are two good turnpikes, known as the East and West Saanich Roads, extending from the suburbs of Victoria through South and North Saanich. Fvery few miles there are comfortable wayside inns and summtr, health and pleasure resorts. First, the Swan Lake Hotel, by WilUam Lewis, about three miles out from the city ; then the Royal Oak, by John Camp <fe Son, at the junction of the two roads ; next Stephens', about two miles beyond ; the Mount Newton Hotel, by John Henderson, 13 miles ; and lastly, Heniy Waine's Inn, 20 miles from Victoria, — all convenient to ex- cellent fishing, luinting, and boating. At the Mount Newton House the waters of Finlayson Inlet were seen through the bordering groves of oak and pine. The Saanich tribe of Indians have built their village on the shore of a pleasant cove on the east side. Approaching it, I met two Indians, a man and boy, the former carrying a bow ard arrow. Expressing my surprise that a grown man should be hiinting with such a weapon, the Indian said it belonged to his son, and thaf. he wan only teaching him how to shoot. This explanation was made in a manner so apologotical that it showed that he felt above the use of such savage and childish implements himself. Here as elsewhere their lands afford little more than a camping plftce, only small patches being iu- diflferently cultivated for root crops, their main support coming from the sea, the forest, and rivers. Upon the ground of original occupancy, many of the choicest situations through- out the Province generally have been reserved for the Indians. This I believe to be just, to the extent of gi^'ing them all tlie lands which they reasonably require. Where, however, as in many instances, both in British Columl)ia and in tlie United States, extensive tracts have been set apart for small bands who do not make any profitable use of the same, it is an injustice to the whites who desire and need the* land for homes and cultivation. From what I have seen of the condition of the Indians in various parts of North America, I am of the opinion that the time has come to abolish the reservation pystom altogether, and grant to the Indians, iudi- 70 vidixally, lil)eml ([uantitiesof land, giving them a reasonable time in which to avail themselve of such an allowance, and tlicn open the balance of their re xu'vations to settlement the same as >?pon other portions of the public domain. After a gooel din/ier at Waiue's, I returned to Victoria by the East road, passing several quite extensive, well managed and jn'o- ductivi; farms. Meeting a party of settlers, they suggested what I have often observed, that in following public highways many of the finest portions of the country escape notice, and by way of illustration iuv^ited me to go with them less than fifty rods from where we stood — which I did — and saw a beau- tiful ] >vel prairie of several hundred acres hidden from the ordinary traveler behind rising ground and a grove of pines. TBIP NUMBEK SIX. From Victoria to Fort Wrangel, Alaska, icith Capf. McCullodt of the Hudson Bay steauier Otter. Th rovjjh tlue Canal De Haro, Gulf of Georgia, DodiVs Pass, Seymour Narrows, Discovery, Johnstone, and Broixjhton Straits; Queen Charlotte, Fitzliuijh, Millbank, Writjhti, and Chtdham Sounds ; Tohnic, Greenville, and licciUa Gi(jedu Chan- nels, via Departure and Alert Bays, Fort liui)ert, Rivers Inlet, Port Essinc/ton, Bella Bella, Mctlakatlah, and Fort SimpsoH. Maijnificent Scenery, Extensive Coal Fields, Salmon Fislieries, Indian Villaijes, Tradiixj Posts, Missions (fc. d'c. Hound Trip 1,G00 miles. On Board Stp:ameu Ottkh, In Alaska Wateus, Sept. Ist, 1882. Tlie Hudson Bay Company wove tlif pioneers of th(> steamboat navigation of the waters of the North-west coast, having brougl)t the B<^•lver round the Horn in 1836, the oldest steamer on tht Pacific, the Otter in 185.'i, and the Labou- 71 chere in 1859. Though at first employed prinoipally i)! the fur tradmg service of the compauy, tliey established as early as 1862, upou the breaking out of the Stickeen River gold e'xciteinent, a regular line of steamers for passengers and freight between Victoria and Fort Simpson, B. C, running occasionally during the summer months to Fort Wrangel, Alaska, 160 miles beyond and 750 miles fiom Victoria. From May to September is the most favovalde season for the voyage, rain, mists and fogs prevailing along the coast Nortli of latdtude 56 during a considerable portion of the rema'n- der of the year. On the '26th of August we started from Victoria for Fort "Wrangel (jn the steamer Otter. Capt. McCulloch, commanding, has liad over twentyycavs' experience in navigating these wonderful waters. An Irishman by birth, in 1860 he sailed upon the Nanette for the Island of Van- couver. The vessel was ^^'l•el'ked find lost upon llace Hocks, in the Straits of Fuca, a few miles from the harbor of their destination, and to this circumstance the NeAv World is in- debted for his skillful and ftiithful services. Following the Fraser River route to near Plumjier Pass, and then taking the Nanaimo Channel, a little past noon we emerged from a narrow rock-bound passage, known as Dodd's Pass, and s.iil- ing within sight of the city of Nanaimo, three miles beyond, enter the tine little harbor of Departure Bay. This is the location of tlie most extensive and valuable conl mines on the Piu-itie (Joast. While the steam(>r was coaling I jumped into a car and rode three miles thnmgh a thick forest of Douglas tii to the North WeUingtou Colliery, the most productive mine now iu operation. Hcn-e I found a pleasant villagt* and several hundretl n\en taking out cojd at the rate of about 800 tons a da}-. Five ships iUid two steamers were waiting for cargot!s at their wh>»vves foi' San Francisco, Wilmington, Honolubi, ,iud China. These miiies, owned by Uuusmuir, Diggle A Co., were lirst opened in 1870 and are noA\ beiut; worked by two slopes and three sh.'ifcs to a depth of about 300 feet, the annual output amounting to 175,000 tons. Mr. Duusmuir informs lu, *hat 72 they are sinking another shatt and can soon take out 2,000 tons a day if the demand should require it. Resuming our Aoyage that night, early the 27th we were passing opposite Comox, One of the largest and most prosperous farming settle- ments on Vancouver Island, 135 miles from Victoria. We are now in Discovery Passage with Valdez Island on the right, upon the shore of which the brown huts of a small Indian village are visible, and soon enter Seymour Nan-ows> through which the waters rush whirlmg and foaming at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour. The most powerful steamers seldom attempt to go through against tlie tide. The U. S. steamer Saranac struck a rock hero a few years ago and went do^vn in 500 or 600 feet of water. This is the point where the Canadian Pacific Railroad have considered the practicability of bridging for an lixtension of their line from the mainland down Vancouver Island to Esquimalt Harbor. It would be an enormously expensive undertaking. Another glorious day 's ride amidst scenery of exceeding grandeur, thiough Johnstone's and Broughton Straits, between Vancouver, Thurlow, Hardwicko. Cracroft, Hanson, and Pearse Islands, all rocky, mountauious and tliickly timbered with fir, cedar and spnice, just before sunset we arrive at Alert Bay, Two hundred and thirty miles from Victoria. It is a sheltered indentation upon the West side of Cormorant Island, opposite the mouth of the Nimpkish River, of Vancou- ver, the home of the Nimpkish tribe of Indians from time immemorial. Tliey were iliscovered here b^ Captain Cook, over 100 years ago. They now number about lUO, and occupy a picturescpit; village of large hc^uses made from cedar logK and planks. The fronts of several were covered with gi'otesque paintings and had tall ciedar outposts with hideous carvings. As I walked through it, old and young scjuatted in groups upon the ground around the entrances, many in blan- kets, and exchanged salutations in a friendly, hearty manner. ■'■jWIN - '^ 73 Liirgo qnantiti(^s of (Iriofl salmon, tlioir principal food, luing inside of theii' dismal, windowless houses. In the edge of the forest close at liund, suspended among the branches of the tallest trees were at least a dozen bodies of their dead. The Episcopal Church of England has established a mission among them, built a church and school, and placed Rev. Mr. Hall in chargt;. Just as wo were leaving, a neatly dressed Indian boy passed through the village ringing a bell for evening service '■< wiiich many weie resjionding. Mes.srs. E.u'l, Huson & Si)encer built the Alert Bay Salmon Cannery here last year, at an expenditure of about $20,000, putting up 5,000 or (5,000 ciuses of salmon of superior excellence. The salmon are caught in the Nini])kish River, chiefly by the Indians. This stream is the outlet of Karmutsen Lake, bordering which, there are reported several hundred acres of land suitable for cultivation. Fort Rupert, A village of the Fort Rupert Indians, and Hudson Baj trad- ing post is next reached. It is tinely sitiuited on tlie East shore of Vancouver Island, about 35 miles from Cape Scott, the extreme North-western point of the Island. From thence we .sailed by moonlight thnmgh Queen Charlotte Sound, a stretch of about tliirty-tive miles of o\w,\\ sea, sometimes rough enough, but now placid and unrippled, the long swells rolling gently without a break, entering Fitzhugh S(mnd by daylight the 29th. " The finest night we have had for six or seven months" said the watchman, as I met him on deck early in the morning. W(> had passed the Sea Otter group of islands, also Calveii and Hecate, all on the left, and Rivers Inlet On the right. Here the steamer on her return received seven hundred cases of salmon from the Rivers Inlet Canning Co., Thos. Shotbolt &, Co., propriet(U-s, established at the mouth of the O-wee-ka^-no River in February last. They will pack about 5,00(1 cases this season. The salmcm are larger than those caught at most ««ther places, frequently weiglmig 74 seventy-five poiiiuls. At nine o'clock wo are opjwsite tlio entrance to Burke's C'liiinncl which h^ads away for fifty niiLs North-eastward through the Nortli Ben tic Arm to Bella Coola. A village of about 300 of the Bella Coola Indians, and a trading post of the Hudson Bay Company, W. Sinclair, agent. Rev. Mr. Wood, a missionary of the Methodist Church of Canada, just returned from there, tells me that the situation is a very beautiful one, and that there are about 2,000 acres of rich delta lauds at the mouth of the Bella Coola River, a portion of which are cultivated by the Indians for raising potatoes. He also rejKnts tindhig them in a very degraded condition, many of the men living by the pi'ostitution of their women. Steaming on through Fi.sher's Channel we turn into Lima Passfige, which extends in a North-westerly direction into Ogden Channel. When about ten miles up, the vessel suddenly rounds into a little covt; opposite the Indian village and Hudson Bay trading post of Bella Bella. The Bella Bella tribe having their permanent quaiters hera number about 250. They are entirely self-supporting. A resident missionary, Rev. C. M. Tate, is provided by the Methodists of Canada. There is no landing, but the en- gine had scarcely stopped before we Avere sun'ounded by a fleet of canoes of all sizes, containing twenty-five or thirty natives, men, women and children, who had come, some from curiosity, others to receive their friends, several young men of the tril)e, employes of the Hudson Bay Company, returning home for a visit. Their houses are built of logs and plank, with low double roof, generally without chimney or windows, and one small entrance in fi-ont. Numerous graves were seen on the* neighboring hills, made very conspicuous by the bril- liant red bunting floating over thein. Rude monuments, con- sisting of enormous wooden circulars with images and canoes, marked the graves of the chiefs. In less than an hour our voyage was resumed. Crossing Millbank Sound at the close 7 5 of one of tlic most Ix'iiutiful (Liy.s of the ye.'ir, a bright moonlight night, Hghts us tliroagh a siicoesKion of most rt'.iuaikahU' waters — Tohnie Channc^l, Fraser's ami McKay's Reaches, Wright's Sound, into Greenville Channel by day- break the 30th. At Lowe's Inlet, about half way tlirough on the right there is a salmon lishing and salting establishment. Precip- itous rocky mountahis, covered with stunted cedar, their sides furrowed by avahuudu's, and summits white with snow, de- scribes the general features of the laiidsca])e for hundreds of miles. The mountains on the mainland rising to the height of 3,500 ft.et, are here called the Countess of DutTerin Range, At noon we reach the mouth of the Skeena River, One of the most imjxu'tant streams in Western British Co- lumbia. It has four entraucc^s, the main channel leading from Chatliam Sound, and is navigable for light draught st(>am('r!t() Mumford Tjanding, a distances of sixty miles, and alxmt 200 miles further for can()(>.i. This is tin; shortest and l)est route to the Omineca country, and to several of the Hud- son Bay tradhig poBts. Po^'^" EssM\c^ton, Situated near its mouth, a small village of whit(! traders, and about I'li) Tsimpshoeiin Indians, is the principal si'i,tI<'mHnt :. ; . b-b'-.-. T;, ;■ :• .: , , , ■ , •• '-->\ ,\',,,;... ,. Canning Co.— situated at Aberdeen, within sight ot the op- ])osit(i bank, and .'umtlier — tlie rnv(>rness— :)n Iuver!iess Sli)U'j;li. about eight" mil.'.' bi'iaw Tliey will |)ut up ii<it far IVoin •2(!,0()() eases the present season. Mr. Wni. V. lirown, ;i pioneer miner and prospector, who has s[)(^nt tViur years ex- ploring this region, reports quit' extensive tracts of open grazing country, lying Ix'tween the Skeena and Naas Rivers, iiiid also still larger ranges bv'tween the former riv;;r and I'raser I^ake. About sixteen miles beyond tlie mouth of the Skeena, we suddenly come in full view of the most populous and inviting 76 placo \vc^ have seen tluis fur, — ii iitijit villiigo f)f about 150 li()us(i8, lu^autifuUy sitnateil npontlio TsiinpHliccan ixmiiiHula. A large, fiiio cliurch nnd rtcrhool-hoiiseare {'<)iiHj)it'uoasly prom- inent. There is also a store, Salmon Cannery, and Sawmill. This is Metlakathia, Tlio field of tlui n'tnarka])ly siurecssfnl work of Mr. Ehmean, in civilizing and christianizing the Tsinipshtiean Indians. He first estabhshed a mission at Fort Simpson, a jxxst of the Hudson Bay Company, but for the jmrpose of gi-oater isola- tion in 18G2 removed to Metlakathia, wlitn-e he has gathered about 1,000 of thattrilM^, and tlu'ough a fii'ra Government and faithful sticulai' and religious training raised them from bar- barism to the condition of civilized people. They live in comfortable houses, dress like the whites, sidiool their chil- di'tiu, and worship in one of the largest chui'ches in the Pro- vince, erected at a cost of $10,000. Fort Simpson. About 15 miles further across Chatham Sound, biings us to For Simpson, the principal trailing post of the Hudson Bay Co. upon the Pixcific cojust. It hits been the favorite abode of the Tsimpsheean Indians, one of the most populous and powtu- ful of the native trilK's of Nortli America from times imme- moiial. V/hen first occupicsd by the Hudson Bay Company, their villiige here contained over two thousand people. They were found living in housi^s, many of which an^ still standing, strongly Imilt of great hewn timb(;rs and thick 2)lanks split from enormous cedars. Some of their canoes, made from a single tree, are over 05 fe(!t in length, carrying seventy people, and in which they not infrei|uently make voyages as far South as the Straits of Fuca, and North to Alaska. The situation was the most commanding which could have been selo<'ted for traffic with the neighboring tribes. They came here to ti'ade from the Skeena, Naas, Sticki^en, Takou, and Chilkat Rivers, the Queen Charlotte and Prince of Wales Islands, Wrangel and Sitka, and from the distant interior, to exchange their fiu'S for goods. For several years most of this barter was car- 77 rit'd on through the TsiinpHlicoanH, whg would not permit tlio inlfind tiibcH to deal diifctly with the agents of tho company, Imt jt'alously rcscrvod that j)riviI('go for tluiir own jxiople. F(n't Simpson was then the base ot suppHcs for all the trading posts of this region, which were brought in the company's own shii)s direct from England. The fort consists of a simple stockade about twenty feet in luught, made from large ccnlar poles, with watch and shooting towers, and encloses the store warehouses, and quarters of the servants of the company. The village contains at present ab it 800 Indians, most of whom live in comfortable houses and dress in civilized cos- tumes. Remaining hero several hours discharging freight, I had the pleasure of meeting Rev. Mr. Crosby and his estima- l)le wife, missionaries of th(^ AVesleyan Methodist Church of Canada, of examining the mission church and school and attend- ing nn interesting service in the evening. To their noble self- siicrificing labors during the prist eight years, the marked imjirovement iTi the condition of these people is mainly due. Tlu'ir houses for worship aiid instniction, erected almost ex- clusively by Mr. Crosby and the Indians at a cost of about !?S,000, chiefly expended for material, are well designed, well built, commodious and comfortable. Taking a purely secular vimv of snch results, it must be conced(Hl that the missionaries are doing more than all other agencies combined to bring these semi-barbarous tribes into peacful subjection to the general Government, and harmonious and beneficial relations with the whites. Fort Simjison is situated about 35 miles from the mouth of the Skt^ena, 40 from the Naas, and 160 miles South-east of Fort Wrangel. Sixty miles or more to the Westward lie The ftueen Charlotte Islands, Th(> extreme North-western land of British Columbia. Count Zubotf, a Russian geologist, who has spent two summers upon these; islands, gives me a very interesting account of their geography, resources and inhabitants. Their extreme length is 156 miles, and their greatest width 52 miles. Mountains thickly wooded witli cedar, spruce and hemlock, cover most of their surface, though Graham Island, one of the largest A- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4 // ^/ ^/^ .^ -*-A^^ <^^:v^ A y. ^ MA 1.0 Hf"- 1 I.I 2.5 1^ 2: lis IIIIIM 1.8 11-25 111111.4 IIIIII.6 V] <^ /] e- /# ^'\« 't ^'^V .^VV ^ '^' >> V /^ JO Photograpb Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STRBET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 fA 78 of the group, contiiins n, tract of timberless grazing laiitl Kuffi- cient, it is «'.stiuiati;d, to support over a thousand lieail of cattle. The climate is comparatively mild, and snowfall so light that stock would subsist throughout the year entirely upon the native grasses. It is peopled by the Hvdalis, evidently of Asiatic origin, the finest specimens, physically, and the most courageous of all the native tribes. They live in villages upon the seashore, building large and substantial houses from great hjgs and planks of cedar. Tlusy now number about 850, but were formerly much more populous. Hunting, fishing, and trapping is their main deptaidence, though they are great canoe builders, supplying them to the other tribes, and also ver^' skillful wtn'kers in gold and silver, and carvers upon wood and slate. Bold and skillful navigators, and war- like, they ruled among the natives of these nortlusrn seas, and until a comparatively recent date have l)eeu hostile to tlie whites. Now they are friendly, and anxious for missionary teachers, who ani about to establish a school for their in- struction. Th(i Count has discovered an e.xtcuisi ve vein of lignite iUid a four foot vein of antluacite coal, and also coal-oil tiure. Graham Island has been occupied as a trading post l»y the Hudson Bay Company since 18 , and for the last four years by the Skid(!g;ite Oil Company, which is niiUiiifiKrtining a very excellent lubricating and burning oil from sliarks. T])ey are so TmiMi"'>n-< in the suiro.indin;:; 'V:>.-'s that tliu Company have caught over 5,000 in thirty-six hours, liy nuians of thousands of strimg steel hooks, fastened by cotton 111)111 .-^Lscu Lo iiiui_) -ii\ (_; leel oi wuliT. ^11 aii_)Oii'HK uii Uie morning of the iJOtli we were crossing the waters of the iii- triinci' tn the Portlinid Cliaiincl, into wliicli fli)\vs the River Naas. Tills stieam abounds witii sahnnn, and is the greatest known resort of the oolachan. wliicli swarm hero l>y tlie million, and are caught by the iiidians in tlie Sprin;^ of tin' year in im- mense nimdiers. A kit of them salted has just bisen brought on deck. They are a bright silver colored tisii, smalU r than till' herring, of more delicate flavor and so rich in oil that when 79 dried they burn like a candle. It is extracted in large quan - titles and forms a staple article of diet and barter am(Jiig the natives. There are also two salmon fisheries near the mouth of the river, Croasdaile <fe Go's, and Welwood & Co., the former packing about 7,500 cases, and the latter several hundred barrels of salted salmon this season. Upwards of a thousand Indians dwell upon the banks of this river, within seventy-five miles of its mouth, most of whom are being readied, in their villages of Kincolith, Greenville, Ahyns and Kitladamax, by missionaries, Dunn, Green and Robinson, the first sent out by the Episcopal Churcli of England, and the two latter by the Wesloyau Meth- odists of Canada. Mr. Robinson describes them as being very fi'iendly to the whites, he having been the only white man in their village of Kitladamax for several months at a time. We are now in the American waters of Alaska, the Portlnnd Channel being the dividing line between British Columbia and that Wilderness Possession. ALASKA. Alaska is a vast region stretching away 1,400 miles north from 54 degs. 40 min., and over 2,000 miles from the Pacific Ocean Eastward. High, I'ocky, precipitous mountains, thickly povered with forests of cedar and hemlock, extend over nearly all that portion embracing the first four hundred miles of coast, known as Southern Alaska. The interior, so far as ex- jilored, contains a diversified surface of mountains and jjlains, Uikes, marshes, meadows, lowlands and rolling plateaun, through which flows a mighty river, the Yukon, as broad as the Amazon and navigable for 1,500 miles. It is inhabited by the aboriginal tribes, the Eskimos, Aleutes, Kenaians and Tlinkets, numbering, altogether, perhaps, 25,000 souls. The climate or Southern Alaska is comparatively mild but very disagreeabh), owing to the excessive rainfall. The winters of the interior are extremely cold and the summers hot. There are about 300 whites in the Territory, mainly at Sitka, Juneau and Fort Wvangel. Mountains, forests, islands, straits and channels innumerable, rock-bound shores and 80 snow-clad peaks compose the general outline of the scene which meets the eye on every hand. Thickly wooded from the summits of all but the highest peaks, there is scarcely a spot in all these last hundreds of miles which invites settle- ment. It is as grand a wilderness as liea under the dome of heaven, and abounds in great resources of tish, fur and miuerals, the utilization of which will attract and support scattering communities, but beyond this the immigration of a hu)\dred years will probably make but little change in the face of Alaska. The climate and soil of the southern coast especially, is adapted to the growth of gi-asses, potatoes, car- rots, turnips, cabbage, etc., but the area susceptible of cul- tivation is so extremely limited as to practically exclude the agriculturist. Captain Oakford, Collector of Customs at Fort Wraugel, told me yesterday that he received frequent letters from people in the East who thought of coming to Alaska. One man wrote that he was well provided with ag- ricultural implements, leapers, mowers, etc , , and wished to engage in farming on a large scale. Such inquiries indicate that erroneous views are entertained abroad concerning tliis region. It is scarcely possible to exaggerate its resources of fish, and it is undoubtedly the greatest range boHi as to number and quality of valuable fur bearing animals in the world, and also rich in coal, copp c, and gold ; but its habit- able lands and timber supplies have been gi-eatly over-esti- mated. With the exception of a few hundred acres upon the bottoms and deltas of the rivers, I have not seen nor been able to hear of any tracts of open arable country exceeding a few acres in extent. And while the forest area is so vast, only very small portions comparatively are either fit or avail- able for the manufacture of lumber. There are small bodies of enormous cedar, or cypress, and scattering tracts of good spruce, but probably 75 per cent, of the forest comprises stunted cedar, spruce and hemlock, growing upon scanty soil, and among the crevices of the rocks, in many places dying for want of nourishment. Mr. George Williscroft, who has owned and operated a sawmill at Georgetown, near Fort Simpson, for eight years, manufacturing about 900,000 feet of lumber annually for the local market, tells me that above 81 Deans' Canal, B. C, the Northern limit of the fir or Douglas pine, though he has examined the country thoroughlj-, he knows of no good timber in sufficient quantities to warrant the manufacture of lumber for the general export trade. At Fort Wrangle I found Mr. William Woodcock, who has been in Alaska for several years, swearing over the Rev. Sheldon Jackson's statement before a Congressional Committe con- cerning it, which lay spread out before him. Mr. Jackson says in substance that the climate and resources of tlie coun- try are such that it is bound to have a large population, but that he cannot encourage immigration into it until provided with some form of government, for the security of life and property. Wliile nearly all agree that it should have a local magistrate or commissioner with power to enforce law and order, all whom I have consulted, quite a number of traders, miners, and others who have been in Southern Alaska from two to fourteen years, are unanimous in the opinion that the very reasons, the character of its climate and resources, which Mr. Jackson thinks offer inducements to immigration, will ex- clude it except to quite a limited extent. Speaking more from information obtained from -uch sources than personal observation, it is difficult to understand how that any man of intelligence and honesty at all familiar with the country, could, under any circumstances, be induced to recommend it for colonization by the American people. Its fish, furs and min- erals are alone worth more than it cost, and will attract con- siderable settlements along the Southern coast, and hardy Northmen will doubtless by slow degrees settle in the vast almost unknown interior, though Alaska may probably for generations to come be most fitly described as the " Great Lone Land." Heading for Cape For, the abandoned U. S. Fort Ton- gass and an Lidian village adjoining are seen in the distance on the right. A little further on the U.S. Coast Sui-vey steamer Hasler, lying at anchor in a snug little harbor on the left, sends out a boat and receives her mail. Then steaming on through the Revilla Gigido Channel, Duke of Clarence and Stachinski Straits, before daylight the 31st I was awakened 82 by a loud prolonged chorus from the wolfish yelping Indian dogs of Fort Wrangel, And going upon deck lound the steamer neaiing the landing. The town is situated on Wrangel Island, seven miles from the mouth of the Stickeen, 160 South-east of Sitka, and contains about thirty resident whites and several hundred Indians. The Presbyterian Indian Mission Church, the McFarlan Home, and the former Government buildings, are the most conspicuous among the 150 or more houses and cabins crowded together on the picturesque shore. The Indian vil- lage comprises several houses of large size built from great cedar logs and planks generally without pai-titious, but some having floors, and all an open central fireplace. These are frequently paved with smooth stones, but have no chimneys, the smoke escaping through an opening in the roof. The great cedar posts , three feet in diameter supporting the monster ridge poles, and also columns standing ui front from forty to fifty feel in height, were covered from the gi-ound up with rude gi'otesque carvings of Indians, bear, beaver, frogs, fish, eagles, ravens, and frightful imaginary hobgoblins. They were for- merly supposed to be objects of worship, but are now known to represent family and tribal totems, crests and heraldic de- signs. Fort Wrangel is an important point for the purchase of Alaska fur, and also does a considerable general trade with the Indians and the Cassiar mines. Wm. J. Stephens, W. King Lear, Benjamin Levi, and Oscar Northrup are the prin- cipal traders. Mr. Stephens showed me a splendid lot of fur comprising otter, beaver, mink, wolverine, wolves, lynx, seal, and sea lion, including a bull fur-seal over 8 J feet in length. His shipments of fur last season were valued at $26,000. This is also the winter rendezvous of the Cassiar miners. Tlie principal mines are situated on Dease Creek, 238 miles North- east, 160 miles up the Stickeen river to Glenora, then a port- age of 85 miles to the head of Dease Lake, and from thence 18 miles further by water. The Juneau gold fields of Alaska are situated near the mouth of the Takou ri\er, 160 miles North-west from Wrangel. 88 Parties just down from these mines report several claims paying from 18 to $16 per day. On the evening of the Slst the Otter turned her bow homeward. A heavy rain fell during the first night, and in the morning scores of streams were plunging and flashing from the snowy summits down the avalanche furrowed sides of the high, precipitous mountains bordering the channel of Revilla Gigido. Sailing through the same wonderful water- ways, traversed on the upward voyage, through long stretches of river-like passages, shadowed by their mountain walls, across Sounds affording more extended and grander views, — then through an archipelago of innumerable rock-bound islands and islets, with arms and inlets reaching out in all directions, on the 7th of September we arrived safely in port at Victoria. CARD. Victoria^ B. C, 20th Dec, 1882. In conclusion, I tender my sincere thanks to Sur- veyor-General W. S. Gore, and Thos. Eltvyn, Deputy Provincial Secretary, to ivhom I am under special obligations for government maps, documents, etc. I shall soon publish, at San Francisco, a second edition of " The Watering Places, Health and Pleasure Re- sorts of the Pacific Coast.'''' It iv ill be a iv ell bound, illustrated volume, of about i^o pages, embracing descriptions from personal observations and experi- ence, of the principal sea-side, lake-side and mountain resorts and mineral springs from Mexico to A laska. The following are among the places which will be prominently noticed : Victoria, Puget Sound, Gray'^s Harbor, Shoalwater Bay, Sea View, Ilwaco, Tilla- mook and Taquina Bays; Wilhoit, Foley'' s, Harbin'' s. 84 Highland^ Pier sort's, Witter'' s, Ziegler''s, Ho'ward's, Bartlefs, A lien'' s, Hough's, Calistoga, White Sul- phur, Cong-ress, Gilroy Paraiso, Paso Rabies, A r- royo Grande, Santa Barbara, The Ojai, A rrovjhead, Temescal and Fulton Mineral Springs; Lakes Ta- hoe and Donner, the Calaveras Big Trees, Tosemite, Monterey, Pescadero Pebble Beach, Santr, Cruz, Santa Barbara, Nordhoff, Santa Monica, Passadena, San Gabriel, Orange and San Diego. Persons desirous of obtaining copies of the same at $2.00, please address me at San Francisco. '■-'^ • ■ -;-•■' '. N.H.C. Mr. and Mrs, K. Maynard, of Victoria, the leading pho- tographic artists of the North- west coast, have the most com- plete collection of British Columbia and Alaska views extant, They have been taken by Mr. Maynard, personally, for which purpose he has traveled extensively through the interior, and along the coast as far north as Portage Bay, within thirty-two miles of the Yukon. t ;!, . J >. .V 1 ' • c'l ' \ ■(•■v. '-K ' V -i -v'-v ». ♦ ^k mrtTs, e Sul- s, Ar. whead, ^es Ta- ^Semite, Santa la, San