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THE 
 
 CANADIAN HANDBOOK 
 
 AND 
 
 TOURIST'S GUIDE 
 
 I 
 
 OIVINO A DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 CANADIAN LAKE AND RIVER SCENERY AND PLACES 
 OF HISTORICAL INTEREST 
 
 WITH THE BEST SPOTS FOR 
 
 FISHING AND SHOOTING 
 
 COMPILED BY 
 
 H. B. SMALL, S.C.L. 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 J. TAYLOR, 
 
 Comi>Her of the Intcrnntionnl Railwmj Guide. 
 
 MONTREAL 
 
 Published b v M . L o n g m o o r e & Co. 
 
 Printing House, 67 Great St. ytviws Street. 
 
 1866 
 

 Entered according to the Act of the Provincial Pai'liament, in the year one 
 thousand eight hundred and sixty -six, by Joun Taylor, in the Office of 
 the Registrar of the Province of Canada. 
 
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 '1 
 
 THE 
 
 CANADIAN HANDBOOK 
 
 AND 
 
 TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 PRELUDE. 
 
 ^ 
 
 The Nooks and Corners of Canada, and more especially 
 of the Lower Province, in addition to the interest they 
 awaken as important sources of Commercial and Agricultural 
 wealth, are invested with no ordinary attraction for the 
 Naturalist, the Antiquary, the Historian, and the Tourist in 
 quest of pleasure or of health. We have often wondered why 
 more of the venturesome spirits amongst our transatlantic 
 friends do not tear themselves away, even for a few months, 
 from London fogs, to visit our distant but more favoured 
 clime. How is it that so few, comparatively speaking, come 
 to enjoy the bracing air and bright summer skies of Canada ? 
 With what zest could the enterprising or eccentric among 
 them undertake a ramble, with rod and gun in hand, from 
 Niagara to Labrador, over the Laurentian Chain of Moun- 
 tains, choosing as rallying points, whereat to compare notes, 
 the summit of Cape Eternity in the Saguenay district, and 
 
 
Preiide. 
 
 the Peak of Cap Tnur"mente, or the Cave of the Winds under 
 Niagara Falls. We imagine the atmosphere of those airy 
 positions is as brisk, to say nothing of the diverse incidents 
 of travel and of sport combined, as that in the fiords of 
 Norway, or as the heath-clad peaks of the Dovre-feld afford 
 to so many an English Tourist and Sportsman. 
 
 Volumes have been written to make known the inexhaust- 
 ible mineral, agricultural, industrial, and commercial wealth 
 of this Colon}', but few efforts have yet been made to lay 
 before the public, or rather the travelling portion of the 
 pMblic, the natural beauties of its scenery, — its streams, 
 rivers, lakes and forests, — lakes that in beauty, number, 
 and variety of size, no other country in the world can vie 
 with, — replete with fish of every description, within access 
 alike of the million and the millionaire. To the Botanist, 
 during the summer months, perhaps no country offers such 
 varied inducements, — plants flourishing here of almost every 
 class, from the Lichens and Mosses of the Arctic Zone, to 
 the Azalia, Kalmia, and Lady's Slipper of the Sunny South. 
 The very woodr> are sacred to Flora, and here n^ay be culled 
 specimens of plants within a day's journey ji civilization, 
 that 'erst have led the adventurous seeker after Nature's 
 gems to wander for 'la}'.! away from the beaten ^'rack, in thti 
 far-off prairies of the West, or the tangled swamps and 
 thickets of the South. To the (Ornithologist, the Geologist, 
 or the Student of any branch of Natural History, we would 
 say, take a run through the Canadas to increase your 
 collection. Does not almost every British Mail bring out 
 enquiries and orders for the finest specimens of our Fauna 
 and Flora .-* If weary of naturalizing during the July and 
 
i 
 
 Prelude. 7 
 
 August heats, steam down and take a briny dip at Murray 
 Bay, or Kakouna, or Tadousac. Do you fancy Canadian 
 Highlands ? — seelc the pleasant shades of Cap ^ I'Aiglc, 
 or Pointc a Pic. Arc you inclined for French gaiety and 
 killing toilets ? — steer for Kakouna. Do you prefer the 
 grand mondc, the fashionable place far excellence ? — then try 
 Tadousac. Each and all of these localities we will en- 
 deavour to lay alike before you, with their associations, their 
 scenery, their attractions, and their inducements for the 
 traveller to linger on his journey, and enjoy what he might 
 otherwise pass by, in search of some wider known and less 
 gifted place. Every traveller in Canada from J3aron La 
 Hontan, who " preferred the forests of Canada to the 
 Pyr^ndes of France," to the Hon. A. Murray, Charlevoix, 
 Peter Kalm, Isaac Weld, Heriot, Silliman, Rameau, Augus- 
 tus Sala, have united in pronouncing the landscape of Lower 
 Canada so majestic, so wild, so captivating withal, as to vie 
 in beauty with the most picturesque portions of the Old or 
 New World ; and thoug'i we have no ivied ruins dating back 
 to mediaeval times, no moated castle or battlemented tower, — 
 though we have no Chatsworths, nor Blenheims, nor Woburn 
 Abbeys, nor Arundel Castles, embellishing the landscape 
 with their architectural beauty, — yet in Lower Canada espe- 
 cially, most of our nooks and corn'^rs are hallowed by 
 associations destined to remain ever memorable amongst the 
 inhabitants of its soil. 
 
 In the dayo of yore the Summer Tourist through the 
 Country had no easy means of access to the quiet nooks in 
 the " back country," or the many pleasant resorts our rail- 
 ways have opened out. The old hackneyed journey was as 
 
8 
 
 Prelude. 
 
 follows : — A few clays at Niagara Falls, a hurried trip throu<;h 
 the " ambitious little city of the West," Hamilton, a cursory 
 glance at Toronto, a night on Ontario in the close state-room 
 of a steamer, a hurried run through the Lake of the Thousand 
 Islands, a day or two in Montreal and Quebec, omitting more 
 than half the surroundings of the latter city, and the Cana- 
 dian Tour was considered complete. But now, thanks to the 
 iron horse and its rccessories, wild forest-lands, smiling 
 villages beside rivers teeming with the finny tribe, the 
 scenery of Superior and Huron, the Saguenay, the St, Fran- 
 cis, the St. Maurice, all are easy of access — all worthy of a 
 visit, and only awaiting some painters hand to bring them 
 prominently forward in thci'' beauty. The facilities about to 
 be offered to pleasure-seekers, through the arrangements 
 the celebrated Thomas Cook, of European Tourist fame, has 
 made, to organize excursion parties to und from this country, 
 will doubtless cause hundreds to avail themselves of the op- 
 portunity of visiting, at a moderate cost of time and money, 
 this, the hitherto Ultima Thiilc of travel. The trips which 
 have "^ i\\ conducted by him in Europe, have obtained the 
 highest encomiums from all who have participated in them ; 
 and as it is his purpose now to extend them through ihe 
 United States and Canada, such intercourse will be of real 
 service in opening International courtesies and mutual hos- 
 pitalities. 
 
 We commence with the City of Quebec as being the first 
 place that the Tourist will reach in Summer by Ocean 
 Steamer ; it is the centre of much beautiful and varied 
 scenery, and affording in its vicinity sporting of almost every 
 descripdon. .. . .. .:. . i._ 
 
 ' 
 
gUEBEC AND ITS EiNVIRONS. 
 
 The City of Quebec, excelling in its fortifications any other 
 city on this continent, has justly been styled the Gibraltar 
 of America. From the natural advantages of its position, 
 surmounting the summit of a promontory 350 feet in height, 
 whose ridge extends from Cap Rouge, the western ex- 
 tremity, to Cape Diamond the eastern end, scarcely any 
 more suitable locality could have been found for a fortress. 
 It is washed on the one side by the waters of the St. Law- 
 rence, whose bosom is here freighted with the ships of all 
 nations, and on the other by the placid waters of the St. 
 Charles. Its innumerable and valuable timber coves or 
 borths, extending some miles in length, are crammed with 
 elm, oak, spruce, pine, tamarack, &c., furnishing an export 
 trade of $5,000,000 per annum, and we can at once com- 
 prehend why in 1608 Champlain should have selected "it as 
 his capital. From the circumstance of quartz crystals, 
 sparkling like diamonds, being found in the dark-coloured 
 slate of which the Cape is composed, it has acquired the 
 name of Diamond. Quebecers ought to be proud of their 
 scenery, and of the " historical ivy " which clings to the 
 old walls of Stadacona, its original Indian name. In 1629 
 it was taken by Sir David Kirke, but restored in 1632. In 
 1690 it was unsuccessfully besieged by Sir Wm. Phipps. It 
 was finally captured by Wolfe in 1759, after a heroic defence 
 by Montcalm. The Americans attacked it in 1775, but they 
 were repulsed, and their General, Montgomery, was slain. 
 Neighbouring cities may grow vast with brick and mortar ; 
 their commerce may advance with the stride of a young 
 giant ; their citizens may " sit in the high places among the 
 
10 
 
 Quebec and its Environs. 
 
 sons of men," but can they ever compare with the fortress of 
 Quebec for historical memories or beautiful scenery ? Look- 
 ing from the Citadel, having at its feet a forest of masts, the 
 landscape is closed by Cap Tourmcnte and by the cultivated 
 heights of the Petite Montague of St. Fereol, exhibiting in 
 succession Beauport, L'Ange Gardien, the green slopes of 
 the Island of Orleans, the Heights of Abraham, the Coves 
 with their humming busy noise, St. Michael's Cove especially 
 forming a graceful curve from Wolfe's to Pointe d Rnisscaiix. 
 Within this area thrilling events once took place, and round 
 these diverse objects historical souvenirs cluster, recalHng 
 some of the most important occurrences in North America ; 
 the contest of two powerful nations for the sovereignty of the 
 New World ; an important episode of the revolution, which 
 gave birth to the adjoining Republic. Each square inch of 
 land of these localities, in fact, was measured by the footsteps 
 of some of the most remarkable men in the history of 
 America ; Jacques Cartier, Champlain, Frontenac, Laval, 
 Phipps and Iberville, Wolfe, Montcalm, Arnold, Montgomery, 
 have each at some time or other trod over this expanse. 
 Close by the spot where now stands the English Cathedral, 
 under an elm-tree only recently cut down, tradition states 
 that Champlain first raised his tent. From the Castle of 
 St. Louis in the Citadel, unfortunately destroyed by fire in 
 1834, Count Frontenac returned to Admiral Phipps that 
 proud answer, as he said, " by the mouth of his cannon," 
 which will always remain recorded in history. On the Plains 
 of Abraham, where Wolfe and Montcalm fell, may be said to 
 have been decided the fate of French dominion in Canada. 
 At the foot of the Citadel stands a tower, where now floats 
 the British flag, where Montgomery and his soldiers all fell, 
 swept by the g-ape-shot of a single gun manned by a Canadian 
 artilleryman. Again, in Sault-au-Matelot Street, the intrepid 
 Dambourges, sword in hand, drove Arnold and his men 
 from the houses in which they had established themselves. 
 
 
Quebec and its Environs. 
 
 II 
 
 ig 
 
 " History is everywhere around, — she rises from the ramparts 
 replete with daring deeds, and from the plains equally cele- 
 brated for feats of arms, and she again exclaims 'here I am.'" 
 
 Quebec is divided into the Upper and Lower Town, the 
 ascent from the latter being by a very steep and winding 
 street through Prescott Gate. The site of the Lower Town 
 may be regarded as almost entirely the creation of human 
 industry, having been gained by excavation from the base of 
 the impending precipice, or redeemed from the river by 
 building out into its waters. The wharves are, generally 
 speaking, carried out upwards of 200 yards into the river. 
 
 Skirting the bank of the St. Charles, called by Jacques 
 Cartier Port Ste. Croix, a continuation of Lower Town is 
 called St. Rochs, from which, in a circuitous manner, the 
 city ascends to the very border of the Citadel and the 
 Ramparts, the principal access being through Palace Gate. 
 The city is remarkably irregular, and the streets extremely 
 narrow, following the example of all the old French towns ; 
 but, from the massive walls and antiquated appearance of 
 many of its buildings, its appearance is picturesque and 
 romantic. Here and there flights of steps lead the passenger 
 from one street to another, reminding the tourist forcibly of 
 the streets in the islands of Guernsey or of Malta. The 
 fortifications cover an area of forty acres, and beneath them 
 are many spacious and gloomy vaults for the reception of 
 ammunition and stores during a time of war. The tourist, 
 with proper introductions, or if a foreigner, with a note 
 from his Consul, will find no difficulty in obtaining a 
 pass from the military authorities to view them, and will 
 be well rewarded with the sight. The finest prospect that 
 can be enjoyed in the city is obtainable on the ramparts, and 
 though at the signal house a higher altitude can be obtained, 
 yet to lean upon the balustrade of "the platform" in the 
 promenade, just below the Citadel, and gaze over the 
 Lower Town, where the hurry of business is ^oitig on, and 
 
12 
 
 Quebec and its Environs. 
 
 the ships discharging their cargoes, and yet only hear a 
 confused hum, — to see the sailor tugging away, perhaps at 
 the mast-head of his ship, far below you, and yet only hear 
 his loud, clear shout stealing upward in the air, is something 
 unique and attractive. Here near this promenade, between 
 the gardens attached to the old Castle of St. Louis, stands 
 an obelisk to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm. 
 
 The religious establishments and buildings are very nu- 
 merous, ancient, and well endowed ; among the most im- 
 posing of all is perhaps the Laval University and Seminary, 
 the Cathedral, the Bishop's Palace, and the Church and 
 Convent of St. Ursula. In the Lower Town is a Chapel 
 noticeable On account of its antiquity and the origin of its 
 name — Noti'c Dame dcs Victoircs. It was built and used as 
 a Church before 1090. In that year Sir Wm. Phipps, in 
 attempting to capture Quebec, was defeated, and in con- 
 sequence the fete of Notre Dame de la Victoire was instituted 
 in this Church for annual celebration. After the shipwreck 
 and destruction of the English fleet under Admiral Walker 
 in 171 1 on Egg Island Rocks, which was regarded by the 
 inhabitants not only as a second victory, but as a miraculous 
 interposition in their favour, the present name was imposed 
 on the Church, in order that both events might be com- 
 memorated at once. In the growing suburbs of St. John's 
 and St. Rochs, are several handsome and substantial eccle- 
 siastical structures. In 1845 Quebec was visited at an 
 interval of four weeks by two most calamitous fires ; but as 
 there is seldom any evil out of which good does not arise, so 
 in this case many old wooden buildings were swept away, 
 which have been replaced by more substantial brick and 
 stone. Amongst the curiosities which will attract the at- 
 tention of the visitor, is the Golden Dog, " Lc Chien 
 dOr^ This is the figure of a dog in a crouching position 
 rudely sculptured in relievo, and richly gilded, which stands 
 above the entrance of an ancient house, which was built by 
 
Quebec and its Environs. 
 
 13 
 
 M. Phillibert, a merchant of the city, in the days of Intendant 
 Bigot. It. was, a few years ago, the chief entrance to the 
 City Post Office. Connected with it is the following curious 
 story : — M. Phillibert and the Intendant were on bad terms ; 
 but under the system then existing, the merchant knew that 
 it was in vain for him to seek redress in the Colony, and 
 determining at some future period to seek redress in P'rance, 
 he contented himself with placing the figure of a sleeping 
 dog in front of his house, with the following lines beneath it, 
 in allusion to his situation with his powerful enemy : 
 
 " Je suis un chien qui rongo I'os, 
 En lo ronpeant jo prends mou repos — 
 Tin jour viendra qui n'est pas venu 
 Quo je laordrai qui ra'aura mordu." 
 
 This allegorical language, however, was too plain for Bigot 
 to misunderstand it, and, as the reward of his verse, poor 
 Phillibert received the sword of an officer of the garrison 
 through his back when descending tie Lower-Town Hill. 
 The murderer was permitted to leave the Colony unmolested, 
 and was transferred to a regiment in the East Indies, but 
 was pursued thither by a son of the deceased, who, meeting 
 him in the streets of Pondicherry, avenged his father's death. 
 The environs of Quebec arc highly interesting, and we 
 will take a few of the most prominent in turn. Chatcan- 
 Bigot, some five miles north of Quebec, an antique and 
 massive ruin, standing in solitary loneliness in the centre of 
 a clearing, at the foot of the Charlesbourg mountain, is well 
 worthy of a visit. Those who wish to go there, are strongly 
 advised to take the cart-road which leads from Charles- 
 bourg Church, turning up near the house of a man named 
 Charles Paquct. Pedestrians will prefer the other route ; 
 they can, in this case, leave their vehicle at Mrs. Huot's 
 boarding-house, a little higher than the Church, and then 
 walk through the fields, skirting during the greater part of 
 the road a beautiful brook. But by all means let them take 
 
14 
 
 yueOec ana its linvirotis. 
 
 a guide with them. A tragical occurrence enshrines the old 
 building with a tinge of mystery, which only awaits the pen 
 of a novelist to weave out of it a thrilling romance. The 
 legend may be condensed as follows : — Somewhere about 
 the year 1757, the French Intendant, Bigot, who had charge 
 of the public funds of Canada, attempted to lead here the 
 same dissolute life which the old Noblesse of France led 
 before the French Revolution, and built this country seat 
 in which to seek relaxation from the cares of office. Hunt- 
 ing was a favourite pastime of this old noble, and this 
 indefatigable Nimrod on one occasion, tracking a deer which 
 he had wounded, strayed far away from his chateau, and was 
 overtaken by the shades of evening in the midst of a dense 
 forest. Exhausted with hunger and fatigue, he sat down to 
 ponder on what course he should pursue, when, startled by 
 the sound of footsteps, he perceived before him a light 
 figure, with eyes as black as night, and raven tresses flowing 
 in the night wind. It was an Algonquin beauty, one of 
 those ideal types whose white skin betray their hybrid 
 origin — a mixture of European blood with that of the 
 Aboriginal race. It was Caroline, a child of love, born on the 
 banks of the Ottawa, a French officer her sire, and the 
 Algonquin tribe of the Beaver claimed her mother. Struck 
 with the sight of such beauty, he requested her guidance to 
 his castle, as she must be familiar with every path of the 
 forest. . . . The Intendant was a married man, but his 
 lady seldom accompanied her lord on his hunting excursions, 
 remaining in the Capital ; but it was soon whispered abroad, 
 and came to her ears, that something more than the pursuit 
 of wild animals attracted him to his country seat. Jealousy 
 is a watchful sentinel, and after making several visits to the 
 castle, she verified her worst fears. . . , On the night of the 
 2nd July, when every inmate was wrapped in slumber, a 
 masked person rushed upon this "fair Rosamond," and 
 plunged a dagger to the hilt in her heart. The whole 
 
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 Quebec and its Environs. 
 
 15 
 
 household was alarmed ; search was made, but no clue to 
 the murderer discovered. A variety of reports were circu- 
 lated, some tracing the deed to the late Intendant's wife, 
 others alleging that the avenging mother of the m^tissc was 
 the assassin. A mystery, however, to this day surrounds the 
 deed. She was buried in the cellar of the castle, and the 
 letter C engraved on a flat stone, which, till within the last 
 few years, marked her resting-place. The chateau at once 
 fell into disuse and decay ; and a dreary solitude now sur- 
 rounds the dwelling and the tomb of that dark-haired child 
 of the wilderness, over which green moss and rank weeds 
 cluster profusely. Such is the legend of Chateau-Bigot. 
 
 The Hotels in Quebec, of which the St. Louis and Russell's 
 are the principal, are very good, and moderate in their terms ; 
 carriages are easily procured anywhere, and street cars 
 have lately been introduced into the city. The principal 
 buildings are the Custom House, the Marine Hospital, the 
 Parliament Buildings, and the different gates, which were 
 formerly the only entrances to the city. To Spencer Wood, 
 the residence of the Governor-General, is a very pleasant 
 drive, and the view thence is magnificent. 
 
 The Ste. Foy Monument stands in an open field, on 
 the brow of a cliff, from which the view is beautiful in 
 the extreme, and is reached after a five or six minutes' walk 
 from the Ste. Foy Toll-gate, through an avenue bordered 
 on either side by handsome villas, and fine gardens, and 
 half-shaded by over-arching trees. As you turn towards 
 the monumental pillar, you have before you the valley of 
 the St. Charles, along which the populous suburbs of St. 
 Roch and St. Sauveur are gradually making their way. Be- 
 yond the limit of the level ground, the hills rise up terrace- 
 like, bright with verdure, and rendered still more attractive 
 by the endless succession of villas, farm houses, and villages, 
 which dot the rising ground at intervals, until they are lost 
 in the distance, far away behind Lorette and Bcauport, where 
 
 : I 
 
i6 
 
 Quebec ami its Environs. 
 
 ■ \ ; 
 
 the blue summits of the Laurentian range rise to the skies. 
 The monument is decidedly the handsomest public monu- 
 ment in or near the city. Of bronzed metal, standing on a 
 stone base, and surmounted by a bronze statue of Bellona. it 
 is a most prominent object in the landscape. The face of 
 the pedestal fronting the Ste. Foy road has the simple inscrip- 
 tion, surrounded by a laurel wreath, *' Aux Braves de 1 760, 
 erige par la Societe St. Jean Haptiste de Quebec, i860." On 
 the face looking towards the city is the name " Murray, " on 
 an oval shield surmounted by the arms of Great Britain and 
 Ireland, and supported by British insignia. On the other 
 side is a shield bearing the name " Levis," surmounted by 
 the arms of France under the Bourbons, the crown and the 
 lilies, with appropriate sujiporters. In rear, looking towards 
 the valley, there is a representation of a wind-mill in bas- 
 felief — in allusion, we suppose, to the wind-mill which was 
 an object of alternate attack and defence to both armies on 
 the occasion of the battle. This portion of the column also 
 bears the national arms of Canada. — The idea of erecting a 
 monument here was conceived many years ago. For a long 
 time the plough of the farmer and the shovel and pick-axe of 
 the workman, as he labored at the foundation of new build- 
 ings along the Ste. Foy road, turned up human remains — 
 evidently the relics of the slain. Rusty, half-decayed arms, 
 accoutrements and buttons, bearing the arms of the French 
 and British regiments, told to whom they belonged. In 
 i853-'4 an unusual number of these bleached fragments of 
 humanity were fou^d, and the St. Jean Baptiste Society con- 
 ceived the idea of having them all interred in one spot. 
 They were accordingly collected, and the Christian intention 
 of the Society was carried out on the 5th June 1854, when 
 the national societies, troops, volunteers, public bodies, &c., 
 followed in procession a magnificent funeral car containing 
 the bones of the slain to this their last resting place. — The 
 battle of Ste. Foy was one of no ordinary character, being 
 
Quebec and its Environs. 
 
 17 
 
 0.' 
 
 skies. 
 
 inonu- 
 
 g on a 
 
 lona, it 
 
 face of 
 
 nscrip- 
 
 1760, 
 
 On 
 
 •ay/" on 
 
 ain and 
 
 le other 
 
 ntcd by 
 
 and the 
 
 towards 
 
 in bas- 
 
 lich was 
 
 rmies on 
 
 Limn also 
 
 recting a 
 
 or a long 
 
 ck-axe of 
 
 evv build- 
 
 emains — 
 
 /■ed arms, 
 
 e French 
 
 ged. In 
 
 jmcnts of 
 
 :iety con- 
 
 onc spot. 
 
 intention 
 
 !54, when 
 
 )dies, &c., 
 
 ontaining 
 
 ICC. — The 
 
 ter, being 
 
 the first and only action which was fought in the course of 
 the Be Levis' bold attempt to wrest the Fortress City from 
 the liritish, and was also the last victory won by l-'rench 
 arms on Canadian soil. Quebec, during that winter, was 
 held by but a handful of British troops, and the occasion 
 seemed most auspicious for the French, The battle lasted 
 one hour and three-quarters, and from accurate data about 
 4000 corpses strewed the environs of the spot where the 
 monument now stands. 
 
 Stretching southwards, the next object of historical interest 
 is the expanse of table land known as Tim Plains of 
 AiiRAiiAM, celebrated in history as being the death scene 
 of Wolfe and Montcalm. The battle ground presents almost 
 a level surface from the brink of the St. Lawrence to the 
 Ste. Foy Road. The Grande A116e, or Road to Cap Rouge, 
 running parallel to that of Ste. Foy, passes through its centre. 
 On the highest ground, considerably in advance of the 
 Marfello Towers, not far from the fence which divides the 
 race-ground from the enclosures on the cast, are the remains 
 of a redoubt, close by which, a rock is pointed out as marking 
 the spot where Wolfe actually breathed his last, and in one of 
 the enclosures near to the road is the well whence they 
 brought him water. Montcalm, who survived some twelve 
 hours, was buried in an excavation made by the bursting of 
 a shell within the precincts of the Ursuline Convent, — a fit 
 resting place for the remains of a man who died fighting for 
 the honor and defence of his country ; but England, jealous 
 of the ashes of Wolfe, laid them beside his father's at Green- 
 wich, the town in which he was born. The skull of Mont- 
 calm was exhumed some ten or twelve years ago, and placed 
 in a glass case in the Convent, where the curious in relics 
 can see it on application to the chaplain there. The monu- 
 ment in Quebec, common to Wolfe and Montcalm, — the stone 
 placed in the Ursuline Convent in honor of the latter, — and 
 the smaller column, on the plains dyed with the blood of 
 
 B 
 
 I 
 
i8 
 
 Oncbcc and its Environs.. 
 
 Wolfe, form a complete series of testimonials, honorable to 
 the spirit of the age, and the distinguished individuals under 
 whose auspices they have been erected. The memorial 
 on the Plains bears the following inscription : " Here died 
 Wolfe; victorious; 1759." 
 
 A ride to The Falls of Montmorenci, seven miles 
 down the river, will abundantly repay the tourist for any 
 trouble or expense to which he may be subjected. The 
 Montmorenci itself, so called after a French Admiral of 
 that name, is an inconsiderable stream, — but having made a 
 leap of two hundred and fifty feet, is quite deserving of its 
 reputation. The sheet of water comes over the precipice in 
 an unbroken mass, discharging its translucent treasure into 
 a pool below, which boils and foams as if venting its wrath at 
 having been tossed about, till in a few moments it glides 
 onward in peace, to raingle with the current of the St. Law- 
 rence. The narrowness of the fall, being only 50 feet in 
 width, when compared with its height, perhaps, cau.s(Js the 
 latter to seem greater than it really is. The whole of the 
 scenery on the road through Beauport and back again by an 
 interior road is full of interest. About two miles above the 
 fall is a curious formation on the river bank called The Natural 
 Steps ; these are a series of layers of the limestone rock, each 
 about a foot in thickness, forming the river bank, and, for 
 about half a mile, receding one above the other to the height 
 of about 20 feet as regularly as if framed by the hand of man. 
 They are an object of curiosity, and being so near the fall, 
 should be included in the visit. Facing the roaring cataract 
 stands the "Mansion House," the summer residence of an 
 English Prince, the Duke of Kent, in 1791. The main 
 portion of the " Mansion House," is just as he left it ; the 
 room in which he used to write is yet shown ; a table and 
 chair, part of his furniture, are to this day religiously 
 preserved, and access can be had to view the place through 
 the kindness of the proprietor, G. B. Hall, Esquire, whose 
 
^ 
 
^ 
 
* 
 
 Montnioniici Fa/Is, )iear Quebec. 
 
 Jo r MAN. Phofi). 
 
 
Quebec and its Environs. 
 
 ^9 
 
 f 
 
 saw-mills lie just below the falls. Montmorenci Falls in 
 winter are a favorite resort for the residents of Quebec, who 
 drive there, warmly wrapped up in buffalo robes, in their 
 light carioles or sleighs ; and carrying with them a basket 
 well stocked, enjoy what is unknown elsewhere in mid- 
 winter, a picnic on the snow. The foam and spray rising 
 from the foot of the falls accumulate in the shape of ice, 
 forming a cone sometimes nearly lOO feet high. A second 
 one of less size is also formed, which is greatly (the higher 
 cone, only by the more hardy and venturesome) made use 
 of by visitors for *' coasting " and " toboggining ; " that is, 
 having- ascended to the summit, they entrust themselves to 
 their small sleigh or toboggin, as the case may be, and slide 
 down at full speed, gaining a velocity every instant, which 
 carries them sometimes half a mile or more on the surround- 
 ing level ice. It requires, however, the expertness of boys 
 used to " coasting" to steer straight down the incline, and it not 
 unfrequently happens that two or three upsets, though gener- 
 ally without any serious consequences, take place. The cold 
 is not felt by those engaged in the sport, so thoroughly docs 
 the exercise warm the blood. We do not know of any 
 exercise more invigorating than guiding a toboggin at full 
 speed down an incline of 45 ° when two or three ladies are 
 clinging on behind, and we recommend all who have never 
 enjoyed this sport, to try their hands, if only for once, at this 
 entirely Canadian amusement. A toboggin is a light Indian 
 sleigh made of very thin wood p.nd curled over in front, and 
 used chiefly by pleasure parties in sliding down hill sides 
 covered Vv^ith crusted but lightly packed snow — small sleighs 
 with runners are chiefly used at the ice cones. I'rom the 
 summit of the large ice-cone, the glassy sides slope down 
 evenly in all directions ; one, leading down swift into the huge 
 boiling caldron at the foot of the cascade, the otTier, the side up 
 which we climb. A few years ago the soldiers of the garrison 
 held a picnic here in winter, when the cone was excavated 
 
20 
 
 Quebec and its Envh'ons. 
 
 into a grotto and alcoves, which, when illuminated at night, 
 presented a most beautiful sight, conveying an idea of the 
 winter palace of St. Petersburg on the Neva. — To those 
 who have not resided in Quebec during the winter, it is 
 hardly possible to convey an idea of the interest which is felt 
 in the formation of an "ice -bridge." When the ice does not 
 take between the two shores, there is often much difficulty 
 in crossing the river. The stream is then full of masses of 
 floating ice, varying in size from a few feet square to many 
 hundred feet, through and over which the traveller is taken 
 in a canoe. Should the boatmen be fortunate enough to 
 strike a good crossing, and get clear water, the journey is 
 quickly made, and is not unpleasant. This, however, is not 
 always the case, and sometimes the victim of circumstances 
 is carried about for hours on the ice, and landed at last 
 some miles from the place he set out for. Despite the 
 apparent danger of the traverse, we very rarely hear of a 
 canoe being lost, and we have never heard of any fatality 
 resulting from an accident. The "ice-bridge" generally 
 holds till the latter end of April, and breaks up all at once. 
 
 As pleasant a drive as the stranger can have in the 
 environs of Quebec is, taking the Cap Rouge Road, out by 
 St. Lewis Gate, and returning by the Ste. Foy Road, nine 
 miles or more. This drive takes us through Sillery, q^ 
 place of great historical interest. Here De Maisonneuve 
 passed his first winter with the colonists intended to found 
 Montreal. A chapel, missionary residence, hospital, fort, 
 and houses, were all substantially built in this spot, and 
 twenty years ago Abbe Ferland saw a portion of the church 
 walls standing. At the centre of Sillery Cove is a cape, not 
 very high, but with its sides perpendicular. This was the 
 fort; on the left is the missionary's house, now converted 
 into a residence for the clerks of H. LeMesurier, Esq. The 
 building has been kept in repair, and is still in a good state 
 of preservation. In a line with it, can be discovered the 
 
-, ( 
 
 Quebec ami its Environs. 
 
 21 
 
 foundation of the church. In this neighbourhood is situated 
 Mount Hermon Cemetery; it lies on the south side of 
 the St. Lewis Road, and slopes irregularly, but beautifully, 
 down the cliff overhanging the St. Lawrence. It was laid out 
 by Major Douglas, the engineer who designed Greenwood 
 Cemetery, New York. A drive, upwards of two miles in 
 extent, affords access to all parts of the grounds. Many 
 beautiful monuments adorn them, and in the front stands 
 the handsome temple called St. Michael's Chapel, which is 
 weekly attended by the Sovereign's representative and suite, 
 and rank and fashion of the city. Leaving this spot, the 
 ride continues through the woods on the edge of the banks 
 rising from the shore. On the south side are distinguished 
 the embouchures of the Etchemin and Chaudicre pouring 
 in their tribute of waters. The view from Pointe a Ruisscaux 
 is worthy the attention of any artist. A little further on arc 
 the ruins of what was once a large stone chapel. A visit to 
 the Church of Ste. Foy, from which is seen, below, the 
 St. Charles, gliding smoothly through its valley, with the 
 villages of Lorette and Charlesbourg in the distance, must 
 not be omitted. 
 
 The other Cemeteries worthy of a visit are Belmont, on 
 the Ste. Foy Road, and St. Charles on Little River Road, 
 each about three miles from the city. 
 
 The Indian village of Lorette is nine miles, Lake St. 
 Charles twelve miles, and Lake Beauport eighteen miles 
 from Quebec. Each repays the visitor in beauty. But by 
 all means make a downward voyage from Lake St. Charles 
 to the Lorette Falls in a birch canoe, for the sake of getting 
 even but a glimpse of Castorville, a forest-wild, through 
 which the St. Charles, mantled over by a dense growth of 
 spruce and fir trees, intersected by a maze of avenues, glides, 
 having passed through a distance of eight miles of perfectly 
 fairy navigation. The mansion lies on a point formed by 
 the Grand D^rt and Sl Charles streams : along the banks 
 
 ! 
 
22 The Loivcr St. Laiv truce. 
 
 are little bowers of birch-bark, and boats and canoes anchored 
 around, close by a veritable wigwam. This is the home of 
 the Hon. L. Panct, whom the Lorctte Huron Indians hai^e 
 elected as their honorary chief. 
 
 There is a remarkable echo at Lake St. Charles, which, 
 unlike other echoes, tarries some few seconds before repeat- 
 ing the sound uttered ; and this in its turn is re-echoed from 
 another quarter, as though the nymph of the Lake were 
 summoning the dryads of the neighbouring woods to join in 
 the sport. 
 
 I 
 
 THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Thirty-six miles below Quebec lies a small group of islands, 
 of which the largest — Crane Tsland — is only six, and Goose 
 Island four and a half miles in length. They are united by 
 a belt of low land, covered with most luxuriant hay, and are 
 the resort of myriads of geese, ducks and teal ; and not only 
 in the fall and spring do they congregate there, but they 
 make it also their breeding place. The high tides of spring 
 and fall wash the foot of the rising ground on which the 
 manor house of these islands stands, and at such times the 
 game, such as ring-plovers, curlews, sea-snipe, sand-pipers, 
 &c., alight within a few rods of the house. To the north of 
 Crane Island lies a smaller one, which the tide covers daily ; 
 that is the Dune, well known to Canadian Chasseurs as abound- 
 ing with Canadian geese, {outardes) snow-geese and ducks. 
 " Every day in May and September," says Le Moine, " you 
 may see a flock of snow-geese and outardes feeding there, 
 some three thousand in number, beyond a rifle's range, or 
 winging their rapid, noisy, wedge-like flight towards the 
 muddy St. Joachim flats opposite." On the long sand-bar 
 
The Lower 6/. Lawrence. 
 
 23 
 
 i 
 
 known as Battitre aitx Corneilles, you may at times sec a 
 dense vapor, to all appearance, hovering over it, that you 
 might take for a squall of rain or hail, but soon the sno^/y 
 breasts of myriads of chubby little northern strangers, the 
 ring-plovers, are to be seen settling on the sand ; now is 
 your time, — enfilade their ranks ; fire low — one shot suffices ; 
 to fire again, would only cause unnecessary carnage. The 
 Seigneury of these islands belongs to the McPherson family, 
 who, to their praise be it said, are indefatigable in enforcing 
 the game laws and punishing trespassers ; but their permis- 
 sion is easily obtained for a day's shooting, by a true sports- 
 man. Within the last five years, two guns in two days killed 
 fifty wild geese there. Crane Island has its legend attached 
 to it. More than a' century ago a French officer left Old for 
 New France, as Canada was then called. He obtained the 
 grant of a Seigneury comprising a group of islands called 
 the Ste. Marguerite, including Goose and Crane Islands, and 
 thereon he built, not a baronial castle, not a crenelated tower, 
 but a plain, massive, stone house — a prison, as it proved sub- 
 sequently, for himself — or for his son ; tradition has failed to 
 elucidate the point. There for many a long year a solitary 
 prisoner was immured. His keeper, perhaps his friend, his 
 relative — was a woman of rank and wealth. The prisoner, it 
 was said, was insane. The question was often asked. Were 
 there no lunatic asylums in France fit to receive him } 
 Dark surmises were circulated. Who was this new Masque 
 de Fer .-• Why was he thus immured ^ The name of the 
 fair occupant of the manor was Madame de Granville ; the 
 prisoner was . . . her brother — sisterly love made her his 
 jailor — she said so. Years rolled on, the captive died, and 
 though till recently the ruins of the grim old house were 
 standing, on its site a modern structure has been erected. 
 It required great effort to disjoint the masonry of the old 
 walls. 
 
 Steaming down the North Channel after passing Chateau 
 
24 
 
 The Loivcr St. Lawrence. 
 
 fi' 
 
 Richer, the pretty Httle Church of Ste. Anne, nesthng under 
 the brow of a steep hill, forms one of the most attractive 
 features of the landscape. Hither annually repair the blind, 
 the lame and the halt, to invoke the interposition of the 
 Saint to make them whole. A number of crutches left 
 behind by persons cured, were formerly hung up in the church, 
 but within late years they have been removed to the sacristy. 
 The inside walls arc adorned with strange paintings, of a 
 primitive nature, with singular explanations difficult to be 
 understood. The environs are very pleasing ; the neat 
 white cottages ever and anon peering out from a dense 
 covert of evergreens, maple or birch. Many places of no 
 little interest abound in the neighbourhood, such as the Falls 
 of Ste. Anne, the Fereol Falls, and the Seven Falls, In fact, 
 there is scarcely to be found in the world a bolder or finer 
 ravine than that through which the Ste. Anne finds its way 
 down from the mountains to the St. Lawrence. It is as well 
 or better worth seeing than Niagara, without its rcjiomm^e. 
 From the top of the hill overhanging the village, the view is 
 extensive, taking in the whole northern shore of the Island 
 of Orleans, with Grosse Isle, (the Quarantine Station,) loom- 
 ing up in the distance. 
 
 The Chateau Richer swamps, in spite of the indiscriminate 
 slaughter of birds, still furnish some 3,000 or 4,000 snipe 
 per season. The Bijou marsh, under the Ste. Foy heights, 
 formerly an excellent hunting ground, still furnishes snipe 
 enough to make a good day's sport ; but only in certain states 
 of the weather can it be relied on: when a north-east or 
 east wind blows heavily, birds may be met with abundantly. 
 Woodcock are numerous at Cdte-a-Bonhomme, near Charles- 
 bourg, at La Bale du Febvre, Les Salines, and in almost 
 any part of the thick cedar swamps which lie over five miles 
 away from the city. Large game in the vicinity is scarce, 
 A curious incident, however, recently occurred to a sporting 
 member of the Quebec bar, whom the summer vacation had 
 
TJic Lower St. Lawrence. 
 
 25 
 
 irce. 
 
 L-ting 
 
 had 
 
 seduced away from his Blackstone and Coke, to the swampy 
 Chateau Richer flats. He was bagging a few birds leisurely, 
 when on firing his first shot, he heard a rustling in the 
 bushes, and out step^. cd — a bear. Sympathy for a fellow- 
 sportsman ought to have saved Bruin's life ; not so, however ; 
 his presence on the swamp was construed by the disciple of 
 St. Hubert into a clear case of trespass. A heavy charge at 
 close quarters, and Bruin was no more. 
 
 The shores of the whole of the Lower St, Lawrence are 
 probably unequalled in the world for the numbers and 
 variety of wild-fowl which frequent them. In the fall of the 
 year especially, they literally swarm with ducks, teal, and 
 other sea-fowl. September brings forth from their breeding 
 places in the barren wilds of Labrador, and secluded lakes and 
 islands of the North, myriads of sand-pipers, curlew, plover, 
 &c. At the entrance of the Gulf, the Bird Rocks are 
 tenanted by large numbers of ganncts, puffins, guillemcts, 
 auks and kittiwakes, and their eggs are an article of traffic to 
 some of the neighbouring coasters, Capt. Fortin, four years 
 ago, having come upon several schooners loading up with 
 eggs at these islands. Here the ^gg collector may supply his 
 collection with many rare specimens. The largest of them, 
 or, as it is also called, Gannet Rock, is the easiest of access, 
 the southerly side being the only place where a boat can land. 
 But the ascent cannot be made from here ; the only spot 
 whence that can be accomplished is from a rocky point on 
 the north-west, and then it is very difficult, as it is necessary 
 to jump from a boat, thrown about by the surf, on to the 
 inclined surface of a ledge, rendered slippery by the fuci that 
 cover it. The landing once accomplished, the first ascent is 
 easy, but the upper part both difficult and dangerous, as the 
 rock is so soft it cannot be trusted to, and, in addition, ren- 
 dered slippery from the constant trickling from above, and 
 the excrements of the birds that cover it in all directions. 
 We have ourselves seen thousands of water-fowl gobbling up 
 
26 
 
 The Lower St. Lawnnce, 
 
 the shell-fish, barnacles, &c„ which cling to the shelvin,^ 
 rocks round Plateau and Bonaventurc Islands at Gasp.'. 
 We have watched the gannet, the herring-gull, the cormorant, 
 hovering in clouds over Perc6 Rock, on whose verdant simi- 
 mit they build and find an asylum secure fi'om their groat 
 destroyer — man. We have seen their young shot by thou- 
 sands for food in the month of August. It is not an uncom- 
 mon thing in the fall of the year for the Gaspd fishermen to 
 kill as many as twenty ducks at one shot in the air-holes 
 among the ice, down which the hungry birds crowd to feed. 
 
 Where is the Canadian sportsman who would not give 
 almost the world for a week on the Mille Vaches shoals in 
 September } Where is ♦:he fowler who has not heard of the 
 sport which Jupiter River, on Anticosti, affords } 
 
 Father Point, lower down than Rimouski, during strong 
 easterly winds, affords capital sport ; Canada geese. Brent 
 geese and ducks, are perpetually hovering over the extreme 
 end c ' the point ; the fowler, carefully concealed, pours a 
 deadly volley into the flock, and his faithful Newfoundland 
 dog springs into the surf and fetches out the dead birds. 
 
 The Perroquet Rocks, at the entrance of the Straits of Belle 
 Isle, which have acquired an unenviable notoriety by the loss 
 of the North Briton, abound in puffins or sea-parrots, pretty 
 little web-footed birds about the size of pigeons, and marked 
 with variegated colours, — hard to kill and tough to eat. 
 
 Six miles further down the coast is the Hudson Bay Com- 
 pany's Post, at the mouth of the celebrated sahnon river 
 Mingan, The resident agent there was a leader of one of the 
 exploring parties for Sir John Franklin. Any sportsman 
 v/hose ardour leads him to these sequestered haunts, will find 
 in Mr. J. Anderson a most hearty friend. 
 
 Seal Rocks, in the Traverse, a broad reach in the river, 
 about iS miles in length, are a delightful small game preserve, 
 so bountifully stocked with ducks, teal, and plover, that a 
 club of chasseurs of St. Jean Port-Joli have leased it firom 
 
 I 
 
The Lowtr 6/. Lawrence. 
 
 V 
 
 e river, 
 •eserve, 
 , that a 
 It from 
 
 government ; a rare thing in Canada, for natives to pay fur 
 the privilege of shooting game. 
 
 Grouse shooting also atforcls amusement on the wooded 
 :4opes of the hills ; but go into the interior about forty miles, 
 ill September, and the ivliirnng of the grouse from every 
 covert will amply repay your toil ; perhaps too you may be 
 lucky enough to have a shot at the king of birds, the golden 
 eagle or his pilfering compeer the bald eagle, soaring high 
 above your head among the crags. And if perchance camped 
 foi the night in a deserted sugar-hut, you hear the horrible 
 hooting of the great horned owl, fear nothing ; wait until the 
 nocturnal marauder lights on the large tree near your resting 
 place, and by the light of the moon you will soon add to your 
 museum, one of the noblest andiiercest birds of the Canadian 
 fauna. 
 
 That portion of the St. Lawrence extending between Goose 
 Island and the Saguenay River, is about twenty miles wide. 
 The spring tides rise and fall a distance of eighteen feet ; the 
 water is salt, but clear and cold, and the channel very deep. 
 Here may be seen abundantly the black seal, the white por- 
 poise, and the black whale. The white porpoise yields an oil 
 of the best quality, and the skin is capable of being tanned into 
 durable leather. It is far from being a shy fish, and when 
 seen in large numbers, presents a beautiful and unique 
 appearance. There are two methods used for capturing it, 
 the first of which affords most exciting sport. A boat is used 
 with a white bottom, behind which the fisherman tows a 
 small wooden porpoise, painted of a dark slate color, in 
 imitation of the young of this species. With these lures the 
 porpoise is Ifrought into the immediate vicinity of the 
 harpoon, which is then thrown with fatal precision. The 
 other method is by fencing them in. This fish is fond of 
 wandering over the sand bars at high water, for the purpose of 
 ieeding. The fishermen enclose one of these sandy reefs 
 with poles set about fifty feet apart, and a ne.t stretched 
 
 
 \\\\ 
 
28 
 
 The River Saguenay. 
 
 \ 
 
 across. They leave an appropriate opening for the por- 
 poises, which enter at high water, and owing to their timidity, 
 are kept confined by the slender barrier until the tide ebbs, 
 when they are destroyed in great numbers with very little 
 trouble. 
 
 — When in Quebec the torurist should by all means take a 
 run down to the Saguenay. This he can do by taking the 
 railway at Pointe Levi for Rivi6re du Loup, and there crossing 
 by steamer ; or during the summer months he can take 
 steamer to the Saguenay, from Quebec. How is it, many 
 are led to inquire, that so little has been known of the 
 Saguenay and its surroundings, until quite recently } Two 
 reasons may be assigned for this ; it is a portion of that 
 vast territory which has been imder the jurisdiction of the 
 Hudson Bay Company, — and the wilderness through which 
 it runs is of such a character that its shores can never be 
 greatly changed in appearance. Only a small proportion of 
 its soil can ever be brought under cultivation, and as its forests 
 are a good deal stunted, its lumbering resources are by no 
 means inexhaustible. The wealth it contains is mineral, of 
 which iron is abundant ; and that it wouk. j ield an abundance 
 of fine marble, the observant eye can judge for itself, as it will 
 frequently fall upon a broad vein of that rock as pure as 
 alabaster. The Saguenay is the largest tributary of the great 
 St. Lawrence, and unquestionably one of the most remarkable 
 rivers on the continent. It is the principal outlet of Lake 
 St. John, which is its head-water ; a lake about forty miles 
 long, surrounded with a heavily timbered and rather level 
 country ; its waters are remarkably clear, and abound in a 
 great variety of uncommonly fine fish. Eleven large rivers 
 fall into it, yet it has only this one outlet. Into this lake there 
 is a noteworthy Curtain Fall of two hundred and thirty-six 
 feet, so conspicuous as to be seen at forty or fifty miles distant 
 — the Indian name of which is " Oueat Chouan," or " Do you 
 
I 
 
li i; 
 
 i 
 
il 
 
 s 
 
 ^. 
 
 H 
 
Tlie River Saguenay. 
 
 29 
 
 see a fall there ? " The climate in the vicinity of the lake is 
 said to be preferable to that of the. sea coast. Th: like lies 
 about 150 miles north-east of the St. Lawrence an .1 nearly 
 due north of Quebec. The original Indian name of the 
 Saguenay was Chicoutimi, signifying deep water ; but the 
 early Jesuit missionaries gave it the name it now bears, 
 said to be a corruption of St. Jean Nez. The scenery here 
 is wild and romantic in the highest degree. The first half 
 of its course averages half a mile in width, aad runs through 
 an untrodden v/ilderness ; it abounds in falls and rapids, and 
 is only navigable for the Indian canoe. A few miies below 
 the southern fall on the river is the village of Chicoutimi, at 
 the junction of a river of the same name, which is the outlet 
 of a long lake named Kenocami, with the Saguenay. Here 
 is a range of rapids which extends ten miles. The Indians 
 say there is a subterranean fall above the foot of the rapids 
 which they call " Manitou," or the " Great Spirit." To avoid 
 these falls there is a carrying place called " Le Grand 
 Portage." An extensive lumber business is transacted here ; 
 the village has an ancient appearance, and contains about 
 five hundred inhabitants. The only curiosity is a rude 
 Catholic Church, said to have been one of the earliest 
 founded by the Jesuits. It occupies the centre of a grassy 
 lawn, surrounded with shrubbery, backed by a cluster of 
 wood-crowned hills, and commands a fine prospect, not only 
 of the Saguenay, but also of the spacious bay, formed by the 
 confluence of the two rivers. In the belfry of this venej able 
 church hangs a clear-toned bell, with an inscription upon it 
 which has never yet been translated or expounded. From 
 ten to twelve miles south of Chicoutimi, there recedes from 
 the Saguenay, to the distance of several miles, a beautiful 
 expanse of water called Grand, or Ha ! Ha ! Bay. The 
 village of Grand Bay, 132 miles from Quebec, is the resort 
 of those 'who want to remain any time here. The name Ha ! 
 Ha ! is said to be derived from the surprise which the French 
 
30 
 
 The River Saguenay. 
 
 experienced when they first entered it, supposing it still the 
 river, until their shallop grounded on the north-western 
 shore. At the northern head of it is another settlement 
 called Bagotville. Between these two places the Saguenay 
 is rather shallow, (when compared with the remainder of its 
 course,) and varies in width from two and a half to three 
 miles. The tide is observable as far north as Chicoutimi, 
 and this entire section of the river is navigable for ships of 
 the largest class, whose legitimate .,home is the ocean, but 
 which ascend thus far for lumber. 
 
 That portion of the Saguenay extending from Ha ! Ha ! 
 Bay to the St. Lawrence, a distance of from fifty to sixty 
 miles, is greatly distinguished for its wild and picturesque 
 scenery. The shores are composed principally of granite, 
 and every bend presents to view an imposing bluff, the 
 majority of which are from eight to fifteen hundred feet 
 high. And generally speaking these towering bulwarks are 
 not content to loom perpendicularly into the air, but they 
 must needs bend over, as if to look at their own features 
 reflected in the water below. Awful beyond expression is it 
 in sailing along the Saguenay, to raise the eyes heavenward, 
 and behold, lianging directly overhead, a mass of granite 
 apparently ready to totter and fall, and weighing perhaps a 
 million tons. Nowhere else have we ever experienced such 
 a sense of human littleness, unless it be at the base of Table 
 Rock at Niagara. Descending from Ha ! Ha ! Bay, a per- 
 pendicular rock, nine hundred feet high, is the abrupt 
 termination of a lofty plateau called The Tableau, a column 
 of dark-coloured granite, 600 feet high by 300 wide, its sides 
 as smooth as if they had just received the polishing stroke 
 from the artisan's chisel. Statue Point is another gem of 
 scenery; but what pen can describe the stupendous pro- 
 monotories. Trinity Point and Cape Eternity } The water 
 is as deep five feet from their base, as it is in the centre of 
 the stream, and from actual measurement, many portions of 
 
The River Sagtienay. 
 
 31 
 
 till ilie 
 western ■ 
 lenient 
 juenay 
 r of its 
 ) three 
 outimi, 
 ihips of 
 an, but 
 
 1! Ha! 
 to sixty 
 iiresque 
 granite, 
 uff, the 
 red feet 
 arks are 
 »ut they 
 features 
 ion is it 
 enward, 
 granite 
 jrhaps a 
 :ed such 
 of Table 
 a per- 
 abrupt 
 I column 
 its sides 
 g stroke 
 r gem of 
 ous pro- 
 he water 
 :entre of 
 rtions of 
 
 it have been ascertained to be a thousand feet, and the 
 shallowest parts not less than a hundred ; and from the over- 
 hanging cliffs, it assumes a black and ink-like appearance. 
 Cr.pe Eternity is the most imposing, and with it is associated 
 the following : — An Indian hunter having followed a moose 
 to the brow of the cliff, after the deer had made a fatal spring 
 far down into the deep water, lost his foothold and perished 
 with his prey. Two or three )^ears ago tv/o fine specimens 
 of the bird of Washington, that rare eagle, were shot here, 
 according to Le Moinc, in his Oiseaiix du Canada; and ever 
 and anon the flight of the bald-headed eagle along the sum- 
 mits of these beetling cliffs, — the salmon leaping after its 
 insect prey, — or the seals bobbing their heads out of the 
 water, — continually attract the sportsman's eye. The village 
 of St. Jean, or St. Johns, is a small lumbering village, 
 similar to the few *., ner settlements in this section, and 
 possessing no peculiar attraction except the bay on which 
 it stands, and which appears perhaps more beautiful than it 
 really is, from contrast with the bold shores encircling it. 
 Nearing the St. Lawrence we pass two hills called the 
 Profiles, from their strong resemblance to human features, 
 and Tete de Boule, a remarkable, round mountain, as stu- 
 pendous as Capes Trinity or Eternity, meets the view. The 
 current of the Saguenay flows in some places at the rate of 
 seven miles an hour, but when there is any wind at all, it 
 generally blows quite heavily from the north or south. To 
 the European tourist, the appearance of the whole of this 
 river must strongly remind him of the fiords of Norway, 
 only on a gigantic scale. For the benefit of summer tourists 
 we would mention the fact that during the " season," or 
 about two months in summer, a steamer from Quebec makes 
 weekly trips, by way of Riviere du Loup, to the Saguenay. 
 Tadoussac, which of late years has come into notice as a 
 place of summer resort, 140 miles below Quebec, lies a little 
 above Poiate aux Vaches, at the east entrance of the Sa- 
 
32 
 
 The River Sagnejiay. 
 
 giicnay, about five miles from its confluence with the Si. Law- 
 rence, and is situated on a semi-circular terrace at the top of 
 a beautiful bay with a sandy beach, heii.med in by mountains 
 of solid rock, thus presenting a eecurc retreat from almost 
 every wind. Tadoussac, apart from its pleasant situation as 
 a watering place, is interesting from the circumstance of its 
 having been at an early period the capital of the French 
 settlements, and for a long time was one of the chief fur- 
 trading posts. Here are the ruins of a Jesuit religious estab- 
 lishment, which are considered the great curiosity of this 
 region. Their appearance is not imposing, as you can 
 discover nothing but the foundations upon which the ancient 
 edifice rested ; but it is confidently asserted that upon this 
 spot once stood the first stone and mortar building ever 
 erected on the Continent of America — the home of Father 
 Marquette, who subsequently explored the waters of the 
 Mississippi. From the very centre of the ruin has grown 
 up a cluster of pine trees, which must have existed at least 
 two hundred years. The fate, and the very names of those 
 who first pitched their tents in this wilderness, and here 
 erected an altar to the God of their fathers, are alike un- 
 known. Charlevoix, in 1720, thus speaks of it : " Most of 
 our geographers have placed a town here, where there never 
 was but one French house and some huts of savages, who 
 resorted hither annually to trade with the French when the 
 navigation was free ; the missionaries made use of the oppor- 
 tunity, and when the trade was over, the merchants returned 
 to their homes, the savages to their forests, and the Gospel 
 labourers followed the last." 
 
 Although the salmon is met with in all the streams below 
 Quebec, it is most abundant on the north shore of the St. 
 Lawrence, and in those waters which are beyond the juris- 
 diction of civilization. It usually makes its appearance about 
 the 20th May, and continues in season for two months. It 
 is an important article of export from this region, and together 
 
ihc River Sagitniay. 
 
 3.^ 
 
 Law- 
 op ol" 
 
 .tains 
 
 [most 
 
 on as 
 
 of its 
 
 rcnch 
 
 if fur- 
 
 estab- 
 
 3f this 
 
 111 can 
 
 uicient 
 
 311 this 
 
 icr ever 
 Father 
 of the 
 
 ; grown 
 
 at least 
 
 )f those 
 
 lid here 
 
 like un- 
 Most of 
 re never 
 2;es, who 
 dien the 
 e oppor- 
 returncd 
 Gospel 
 
 ins below 
 f the St. 
 he juris- 
 ce about 
 nths. It 
 I together 
 
 1' 
 
 With trout, affords excellent sport to the visitor at Tadoussac. 
 The Ste. Marf^ierite.which is one of the chief tributaries of the 
 Sa;:;uenay, and can be reached in a l)oat after a few hours' 
 pull from Tadoussac, abounds with fish, and if the tourist 
 desires remaining on its banks for a few days, he can get 
 accommodation (rough but clean), at the little hamlet of Ste. 
 Marguerite. Another river which affords good fishing in this 
 region is the Esquemain, which empties into the St. Law- 
 rence about twenty miles east of the Saguenay. It is a cold, 
 clear, and rapid stream, abounding in rapids and deep pools, 
 and although there is a saw mill at its mouth, (the enemy of 
 the salmon,) yet its water-works are so arranged as_not to 
 interfere with the running of the salmon. The best spot here 
 is at the foot of the fall, which forms a sheet of foam, about one 
 mile above its mouth. Up the stream, owing to its bushy 
 shores, you must fish standing on boulders in the water, and 
 after hooking a fish plunge into the current, which is not 
 deep, and trust to fortune. But the sport these waters 
 afford is more than counterbalanced by the black fly and 
 musquito which svarm here. To ward off their attacks, we 
 would recommend the fisherman to hang a gauze veil over 
 his neck and face, or carry with him some oil of rosemary, 
 which is a sure preventive to the bites of these merciless 
 marauders. The mouth of the Saguenay itself is hemmed in 
 with barriers of solid rock, and when the tide is flowing in, 
 first-rate sport may be obtained from one of these points ; 
 but we must warn the stranger to be carefully on his guard, 
 lest, engrossed with his rod and fly, the incoming tide, which 
 rises very suddenly, surrounds the rock on which he stands, 
 and he be necessitated to swim through the cold and turbu- 
 lent current till he reach the main shore. Next to the salmon, 
 the finest game fish here are trout, which are taken in both 
 the fresh and salt water, and possess a flavor which the fish of 
 the western rivers and lakes do not possess. They run fr-om 
 two to fifteen pounds in weight in the Lower St. Lawrence 
 
 \ I 
 
34 
 
 The River Sagucnay. 
 
 and all its tributaries. Those of the Saguenay, however, are 
 the largest, most abundant, and of the finest quality. Almost 
 every bay or cove is crowded with trout, and, generally 
 speaking, the rocks upon which you have to stand afford an 
 abundance of room to swing and drop the fly. Besides this, 
 fishing in this region possesses a charm which the angler 
 seldom experiences elsewhere, viz. : the uncertainty as to 
 the character of the prize before it is landed, as it may be a 
 common, or salmon-trout, or a regular-built salmon. It is 
 reported of a celebrated Quebec sportsman, that he captured 
 in one week on the Esquemain seventy salmon, and upwards 
 of a hundred trout. Between this river and the Marguerite 
 are the branches of the Bergeronnc, which also afford excel- 
 lent sport. [At the end of this article the tourist wiiS find a 
 list of salmon and trout rivers.] Seal-hunting is a favourite 
 sport with those who resort to these shores ; this animal is 
 found in great abundance, and several varieties are here met 
 with. The usual method is to start from Tadoussac with a 
 yawl and canoe, and steer for a spot in the St. Lawrence 
 where the waters of the Saguenay and the flood-tide come 
 together, causing a great commotion. The seal seems to 
 delight in frequenting the deepest water and most turbulent 
 whirlpools, and the object of using the canoe is to steal 
 upon him in the ^oC successful manner. As the seal makes 
 its appearance, the hunter throws a narpoon, to which is 
 attached a line with a buoy ; great dexterity is requisite not 
 to upset the canoe ; in the event, however, of such an acci- 
 dent, the yawl is at hand to pick up the swimmer, as well 
 as to receive the animal when dcar\ Another method of 
 capturing them is to pass over in a :anoe to a sandy point 
 called " aux Alouettes," and secreting yourself among the 
 rocks, await the game. Hither they resort in great numbers 
 to sun themselves, and they can be picked off by the hunter 
 quite leisurely, provided he does not show himself Again, 
 if sufficient time is allowed for the tide to ebb a considerable 
 
 i 
 
The Lower St. Laivrence 
 
 35 
 
 ^1 
 
 distance from the spot on which they are basking, the sports- 
 man may cut off the retreat of several by running between 
 the water and them, and with a sharp blow on the snout 
 they are easily despatched. Opposite to Tadoussac lies Red 
 Island Reef, a treacherous ledge of rocks, dreaded by inward 
 bound vessels, memorable as being the scene of the ship- 
 wreck of Ed. De Caen in 1629, and subsequently ia 1848 
 for the loss of the Gaspe Packet. 
 
 — Perhaps the tourist may have a desire to continue his 
 trip down the Gulf and visit Gaspe. If so, his best plan 
 would be to take passage in a steamer from Quebec to Perce, 
 and coast along upwards as opportunity offers. For those 
 who purpose visiting this part of the Province, we give the 
 foRowing description of places most worthy of notice : — 
 
 The peninsula of Gasp6, the land's end of Canada toward 
 the east, from its geological formation of shale and lime- 
 stone, presenting their upturned edges to the sea ana 
 dipping inland, forms long ranges of beetling cliffs running 
 down to a narrow strip of beach, and affording no resting- 
 place even to the fishermen, except where they have been 
 cut down by streams, and present little coves and bays 
 opening back into deep glens, affording a view of great 
 rolling wooded ridges that stand rank after rank behind the 
 steep sea-cliff, though with many fine valleys between. The 
 inland country is but little settled, but every cove and ravine 
 along the shore is occupied by fishermen, who either per- 
 manently reside here, or resort to the coast in summer. 
 This bold and picturesque coast, after running down to the 
 low point of Cap Rosier, on which stai?ds an imposing white 
 brick tower, falls back to the southward and then stretches 
 out into the narrow promontory of Cape Gaspe. Here it 
 was that stout old Jacques Cartier, after battling many days 
 off this cape against the autumnal north-westers, on his 
 first voyage, called a council of his officers, and though 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
?6 
 
 71lc Lower St, Lawrence. 
 
 anxious to see what lay beyond, bore away on his return to 
 France. When he returned, and at last made land, he found 
 here a tribe c f Indians, who appeared to him the rudest he 
 had ever seen ; a branch of the Micmac tribe ; and from their 
 language is d'irived the name Gasp6, which is stated to mean 
 as nearly as possible the " land's-end." The whole of Gasp6 
 is essentially a fishing district. To the sportsman fond of 
 adventure nothing could be better adapted than a few weeks 
 in Gaspd in the summer, where, with cod, halibut, and 
 mackerel fishing, he could while away the hours, or inter- 
 sperse his amusements occasionally with the more exciting 
 chase of the whale, the seal and the dolphin. The most 
 abundant of the whale family here is the black whale or 
 " black fish." Formerly these were very numerous, but 
 being timid, and not prolific, the fishermen have already 
 driven them to the north shore of the Gulf, and will pro- 
 bably soon have to follow them farther. Mackerel fishing, 
 when the fish arc plentiful, affords great amusement ; two or 
 three fish are cut up in very small pieces, and thrown on the 
 surface of the water from the boat ; the fish, allured by this, 
 rise to the surface in myriads. The hooks are then baited 
 with a piece of fresh mackerel or shark, and the line is held 
 either in the hand, or fastened to a rod, and the hauUng of 
 them in becomes at last quite laborious. Cod and halibut 
 fishing from boats is performed much in the same way, 
 with the exception of the bait lying on the bottom, the 
 best bait being a small crab. Small boats can be had from 
 any of the fishermen on the coast, but we would recommend 
 the sportsman to join a party in a yawl, and proceed on a 
 fishing excursion for a few days at a time, as he, by that 
 means, will probably come in for the different kinds of fishing 
 in the same trip, to say nothing of the probabilities of a whale 
 or seal hunt, and an occasional shot at some passing sea-bird 
 to add to his collection. Gaspe Bay, to the naturalist, is 
 rich in specimens fantastic in form and curious in structure. 
 
 tc 
 afi 
 d 
 
The Lower St. Laurence, 
 
 37 
 
 \^ 
 
 The mud which Hcs thickly at the mouth of many of the 
 streams is rich in foraminifera; on the sandy bottom, flat, 
 cakc-hkc shells called the "Dollar-fish" ( Echinarahniiis At- 
 lanticus) abound. On the more rocky grounds, are immense 
 numbers of various species of zoophytes and bryozoa. Just 
 off the mouth of Gaspe liasin, on a gravelly bank, every 
 stone is coated with millipores ; and starfish, echini, chitons 
 and sea-anemones, in addition to numerous shells, strew the 
 sand-bars and spits in great profusion. The interior of Gaspd' 
 has not yet been explored or surveyed ; we must, therefore, 
 content the reader with a description of such places on the 
 coast as are most picturesque and deserve a passing notice. 
 
 Cap Desespoir, a rugged, bold promontory, lashed by the 
 full sweep of the Atlantic, is perhaps the most dangerous 
 spot on this coast ; here it was that in 1 7 1 1 eight English 
 transports, with eight hundred and eighty-four officers, 
 soldiers, and seamen, belonging to Admiral Walker's squad- 
 ron, met with an awful fate ; and the hull of an old wreck 
 is still pointed out, as having belonged to that ill-fated 
 expedition. It is said that fragments of the vessels were 
 driven by the surf on rocks several feet over the level of the 
 sea, so violent was that storm. The spirits of the departed 
 are said to be still seen by mariners flitting about the shores 
 at dusk ; ignes fatui of the muddy pools. But probably the 
 sea-weed covered rocks, slimy with the confervce of the ocean, 
 and apparently swaying to and fro, from the ebb and flow of 
 the tide moving the weed, together with the frowning preci- 
 pice above, and the solitude and sil nee, unbroken save by 
 the swell of the ocean, contribute a weird appearance to the 
 scene. The nearest village is St. Michel, some seven or 
 eight miles distant. 
 
 Close to the redoubted reefs of Cap Rosier, before alluded 
 to, formerly stood " Ship Head," or " The Old Woman," 
 as mariners called it — a fantastic boulder surrounded by 
 deep water, and looming out in calm weather so as to 
 
J 
 
 38 
 
 The Lower St. Lawrence. 
 
 resemble a large ship under full sail, — a veritable phantom 
 ship ; hundreds have been deceived by the optical illusion. 
 This well-known land-mark has, however, recently disap- 
 peared and toppled over from its base ; yet a strange 
 configuration of rock still exists near the shore to which the 
 name of " The Old Man" is given. 
 
 In the distance one discerns the fanciful mass called Perce 
 Rock, containing a natural arch, under which a fishing smack 
 of ordinary dimensions can pass in full sail. It formerly 
 consisted of two arches, the support of one of which however 
 fell in 1 846, resolving the two into one. The summit of it 
 is inaccessible, and nothing but the snowy gannet, the black 
 cormorant, or the silvery gull, has ever sought a footing on 
 this lofty rock. Yet a romantic story is told by the fisher- 
 men residing at Perc6, about a phantom having been seen 
 during a storm on this rock. It is known as Lc Gi^nic dc tislc 
 Pcj'ctf, and the date of its existence runs beyond the memory 
 of man. It is likely that the foundation for this legend can 
 be traced to the vapoury or cloud-like appearance the vast 
 flocks of water fowl assume when seen at a distance wheeling 
 in every fantastic shape through the air, previous to alighting 
 on the summit. The rock is a few miles from Perce, a large 
 fishing village, and one of the chcf-licux of the country. 
 
 Where La Madeleine runs into the Gulf, horizontal layers 
 of limestone, fretted away all around their base, by the action 
 of the tides and waves, assume the most fantastic shapes — 
 here representing ruins of Gothic architecture, there forming 
 hollow caverns into which the surf rolling, produces a moan- 
 ing sound, like an unquiet spirit seeking repose. To this 
 spot is attached a legend that in some awful shipwreck here, 
 a father and mother found a watery grave, but their infant 
 son was washed ashore alive, the sole survivor. His infant 
 wailings, blended with the sv/elling storm, struck the ears of 
 some belated fishermen, who rescued him. Hence the name 
 *^ Le Braillard de la Madeleine." The noise is still heard in 
 
The Lower JSV. Lawrence. 
 
 39 
 
 the 
 
 stormy wcuthor ; and it, together with the evil repute the 
 whole of this coast lies under, causes the superstitious sailor 
 to the present day to give it a wide berth. 
 
 Returninj:' up the Gulf we pass on the south shore, Metis, 
 some 200 n iles below Quebec, where is the largest and 
 longest (jf the government wharves. Here the inhabitants, 
 in addition to the more common kinds of fish, do a small 
 but thriving busmcss in the way of capturing whales, which 
 are of the hump-back species, yielding from three to eight 
 tons of oil ; they are hunted in schooners and harpooned 
 after the fashion of the regular Arctic whalers. From Metis 
 there is a trail (for road it can scarcely be called) to the 
 Restigouche River in New Brunswick. Metis is a thriving 
 town, and if the Ocean Steamers should eventually call there 
 (as proposed,) it will doubtless become a place of some 
 importance. There are, however, no hotels there as yet. 
 
 Proceeding upwards, we come to Rimouski, 180 miles 
 from Quebec, which also has a very extensive government 
 wharf, extending some distance into the river. This village 
 contains an unusual number of handsome houses, and the 
 hotel, kept by one St. Laurent, is first-rate in every respect. 
 The extensive saw-mills and ship-yards give the place a 
 thriving appearance ; but the lover of scenery and angling 
 will not remain quiet till he explores the valley of the 
 Rimouski River. As a stream for trout it is unapproachable. 
 A nameless tributary about twenty miles from its mouth, not 
 more than twelve miles long, running through four or five 
 beautiful little lakes, literally swarms with fish, many of them 
 ' over two pounds in weight. The mountains that hem it in 
 are covered with thick woods, and belong to that range 
 which here boldly swoops down to the St. Lawrence, and 
 form a head-land, resembling tlie beak of an eagle, kiiowaby 
 the name of 
 
 Le Bic, nine miles from Rimouski. Here is a small 
 village of the same name as the promontory, opposite to an 
 
40 
 
 The Lower St. Lawrence. 
 
 excellent old harbour, where the troops were landed from 
 England in the whiter of 1861. 
 
 In its vicinity is a small island, which for two centuries has 
 borne the name of L'Islet au Massacre. A deed of blood 
 marks the spot, and history furnishes the details of the scene. 
 Two hundred Micinac Indians were camping there for the 
 night ; their canoes had been beached, and a neighbouring 
 cavern offered an apparently secure asylum to the warriors, 
 their wives and children. Wrapped in sleep, they quietly 
 awaited the return of day to resume their journey. But 
 during the still hours of night the Iroquois had compassed 
 his slumbering foe. Laden with birch bark, faggots, and 
 other combustibles, the Iroquois silently surrounded the 
 cave ; the faggots were piled around it ; the t >rch appHed. 
 The Micmacs, terror-stricken, seize their arms and prepare to 
 rush through the flames and sell their lives as dearly as 
 possible. But a shower of poisoned arrows mows them down, 
 the tomahawk completes the scene, and history mentions 
 but five, out of the two hundred, who escaped with their lives. 
 The blanched bones of the warriors strewed the cave, and 
 were seen by the Abbe Ferland a few years ago. It has 
 been the s ibject of an interesting legend by M. J. C. Tache, 
 in the Soirdes Canadienncs. 
 
 Trois Pistoles, 140 miles from Quebec, is a place to 
 which the tourist must pay his compliments in passing, not 
 so much on account of its charming scenery and location, as 
 for the pretty river of the same name, where, from a canoe, 
 he will have the satisfaction of seeing half-a-dozen fish at 
 once dart after his fly, the moment it touches the water. 
 About a couple of miles from the shore is a rocky islet called 
 the Isle of Rosadc, upon which is a wooden cross, with a 
 memorial in French under a glass cover, of the deliverance 
 of forty persons, who, having been attracted on the ice (which 
 very unusually had taken between the island and the shore) 
 by the huge quantity of seals basking there, were cut ofl" 
 
 i 
 
The Lower St. Lawrence. 
 
 41 
 
 from the main land and the island by the breaking up of the 
 ice field with the ebbing of the tide, which commenced to 
 hurry them, near the close of a short December day, down 
 the Giilf, till a bold fisherman, launching a frail canoe at the 
 peril of his own life, rescued them four at a time, and hap- 
 pily succeeded in saving all. The cross was erected by 
 the inhabitants of Notre Dame des Angcs, as a silent wit- 
 ness of God's mercy in the hour of peril. 
 
 Journeying on, 1 14 miles below Quebec lies Riviere du 
 Loup (en bas). This is the eastern terminus of the Grand 
 Trunk Railway, and is another favourite summer resort for 
 sea-bathing and fishing. It is very prettily situated at the 
 confluence of the Du Loup with the St. Lawrence, and con- 
 tains a more general mixture of English, Scotch and French, 
 than is usually found in the smaller towns of Lower Canada. 
 It commands an extensive prospect of the St. Lawrence, 
 which is here upwards of twenty miles wide, and studded 
 with islands ; ships are constantly passing and re-passing, and 
 when, from their great distance, with the mountains in the 
 back ground, all these objects are enveloped in a gauze-like 
 atmosphere of summer haze, there is a magic influence in 
 the scenery. The principal local attraction is a water-fall, 
 about a mile in the rear of the village. At this point the 
 waters of the rapid and beautiful Du Loup dance joyously 
 over a rocky bed, until they reach a picturesque precipice of 
 perhaps 80 or 100 feet, over which they dash in a sheet of 
 foam, and after forming an extensive and shadowy pool, glide 
 onward placidly to mingle with the mighty river. The 
 traveller who wishes to go from Quebec to Halifax, must 
 come to this point to take the Grand Portage Road, which 
 commences here and extends to Lake Temiscouata, a distance 
 of thirty-six miles. The first ten miles of this road arc 
 dotted with the cottages of the Canadian peasantry ; but the 
 rest of the route leads up mountains and down valleys, as 
 wild and desolate as when first created. The streams, which 
 
 ii 
 
 ii 
 
42 
 
 The Lower St. Lawrence. 
 
 ill; 
 
 ,■1 
 
 cross the road continually, abound in trout. On this road 
 is a great curiosity of a geological character, which will 
 repay the curious for their visit. Crossing the road and 
 running in a northerly direction, extending to the width of 
 about two miles, is a singular bed of granite boulders, of 
 every size and form, and while from a portion of them rises 
 a scanty vegetation, other portions are destitute of even the 
 common moss. The appearance it presents is that of the 
 bed of a mighty river, whose fountains have become for ever 
 dry. It has probably been the grounding place of some 
 mighty glacier in an early era of the world's hijj'iory. The 
 Grand Portage Road is all that could be desired, and at the 
 termination of it is the small hamlet of Temiscouata, on the 
 lake of the s.iiiie name, signifying winding water. This is a 
 beautiful sheet of water, of a serpentine course, about twenty- 
 four miles long and from two to three wide. On it are some 
 lovely views, but with the exception of the cluster of houses 
 that forms the hamlet, there is not a single cabin on the 
 whole lake, and the surrounding mountains are the Home of 
 solitude and silence. A canoe can readily be had from any 
 of the villagers, and the lake abounds with trout and perch. 
 The outlet of the lake is the Madawaska River which is a 
 tributary of the vSt, John. 
 
 Returning to Riviere du Loup and descending the St 
 Lawrence about six miles we find Kakouna, or as it is com- 
 monly spelled Cacouna, the well-known and fashionable 
 watering place, being to the Canadians what Newport or 
 Long Branch is to New Yorkers. It is one of the finest 
 villages on the St. Lawrence ; and from its elevated position, 
 large and comfortable hotels, together with the picturesque 
 scenery in its vicinity, it is visited during the summer season 
 by many thousands of strangers, from the United States and 
 all parts of Canada, in order to enjoy its fine climate, as well 
 as its facilities for sea-bathing. 
 
 From Riviere du Loup, thrice a week, a stage runs to 
 
Tin; Lower St. Lawrence. 
 
 43 
 
 : I 
 
 Grand Falls, on the River St. John, which there makes a 
 sudden turn, and becoming contracted to the width of about 
 fifty yards, makes a plunge of perhaps forty feet, mostly in 
 a solid mass. Below this and extending for perhaps a mile, 
 is a succession of falls, which make the entire descent some 
 eighty feet. The water rushes through what might be termed 
 a winding chasm, whose sides are perhaps 1 50 or 200 feet 
 high, perpendicular, and composed of a bluish slate. Gen- 
 erally speaking, the entire distance from the first fall to the 
 last, presents a sheet of foam, though around eve.y jutting 
 point is a black, and apparently bottomless pool, teeming 
 with fish. There is a comfortable stopping place here kept 
 by a Mrs. Russell. A trip to the falls and back is an agree- 
 able diversion to the sojourner at Kakouna, and will occupy 
 about three days. 
 
 On the north shore of the river, some twenty-five or thirty 
 miles from Riviere du Loup, is Murray Bay, a small quiet 
 watering place, flanked with frowning hills and wild scenery, 
 with good fishing in a river of the same name. It is a place 
 well adapted to those seeking quiet enjoyment and society 
 during the summer, and owing to its easy access from Quebec 
 is much resorted to. The steamer "Magnet" touches here. 
 
 On the north shore of the River St. Lawrence, eight 
 leagues below Murray Bay, is a very lofty cape at a place 
 called La Baie des Rochers. On its summit, on which 
 the foot of man never trod, there has existed from time im- 
 memorial, in a fissure of the rock, a raven's nest, which is 
 said to have been noticed by the first missionaries who came 
 to Canada. The spot is well worthy of a passing notice from 
 its height and rugged boldness. Leaving this cape behind, 
 we take a glance at Pointe aux Iroquois (near which is a 
 swamp abounding with blueberries of the finest quality), 
 Cap au Diable, and Riviere Ouelle (or "Houel," as it was 
 formerly called) on the southern shore, all interesting in their 
 natural beauty, and possessing each their own legend in the 
 
 il 
 
44 
 
 The Lower St. Lawrenee. 
 
 A 
 
 career of the Ghoul of the St. Lawrence (who after all was 
 nothing but a diabolical old Iroquois squaw.) Riviere Quelle, 
 a station on the Grand Trunk, takes its name from Madame 
 Houel, the wife of a French Controleur General, who was 
 captured by Indians with her little son on their return trip 
 from Quebec in the 17th century. Here are also visible 
 tJu'ce curious and inexplicable snoiv-sJioe tracks deeply in- 
 crusted in the solid rock on the beach. Another singular 
 appearance was till recently visible there, though now almost 
 effaced by the action of the tide ; it was the marks of the 
 anterior part -^f two human feet and hands on the rocks. 
 These alone have afforded important aid to the legends of 
 the coast. Similar appearances arc stated to exist on the 
 Jacques Cartier River, near Quebec. 
 
 Passing by Hare Island, a small rocky island of pictur- 
 esque appearance, and Seal Rocks, alluded to as affording 
 such excellent shooting, we come to Kamouraska, 90 miles 
 from Quebec, a fine flourishing village, containing a gaol 
 and court house ; it is pleasantly situated, and was formerly 
 a resort for sea-bathing, but is now eclipsed by other more 
 favored localities. 
 
 Malbaie, opposite to it, on the north side of the river, 
 is another large village w;th no striking features or attrac- 
 tions except its sea-bathing. 
 
 L'IsLET, forty-eight miles from Quebec, a large village, 
 and station of the Grand Trunk, doing an extensive business 
 in lumber, is the next place of any importance. Here there 
 is an excellent Government wharf stretching out into the 
 river. ' 
 
 All these places on the river, but more especially on the 
 south shore, afford numerous specimens of sea-shells, and 
 will furnish the Conchologist with several varieties peculiar 
 to the Gulf. '. :, 
 
 Grosse Isle, twenty-nine miles below Quebec, is a small 
 island of about two and a half miles in length, but well-known 
 
Salmon and Trout Rivers. 
 
 45 
 
 as being the Quarantine Station, where all emigrant vessels 
 are rigorously compelled to stop. To visit this island a 
 written pass must be obtained from the Superiutendent or 
 the head Emigration Agent. A small steamer belonging to 
 the Commissioners plies between Quebec and Grosse Isle, 
 and a pass will convey the tourist by it to his destination. 
 
 Isle aux Coudkes, a pretty well wooded island, where 
 Jacques Cartier anchored on his first voyage, and gave it its 
 present name from the number of filberts growing wild 
 there, and the Island of Orleans, within a few miles of 
 Quebec, styled by Jacques Cartier the Isle of Bacchus, from 
 the numerous vines upon it, called now from its fertility the 
 Garden of Lower Canada, and celebrated as having been 
 formerly used as a place of banishment, are the last islands 
 we pass, and the traveller once more finds himself in the 
 City of Quebec. 
 
 LIST OF SALMON AND TROUT RIVERS BELOW QUEBEC. 
 
 For the benefit of Sportsmen and Tourists we append a 
 list of the principal Salmon and Trout Rivers below Quebec, 
 with their distance from each other, and such information as 
 may be useful concerning their character and condition. 
 This information is trustworthy. The system of protection 
 adopted by the Commissioner of Crown Lands is not only 
 greatly increasing the number of the salmon, but also en- 
 abling them to attain to a larger size : — 
 
 From Quebec to Murray Bay is ... 78 miles 
 
 (The river furniiihos a few salmon and many fine tiout) 
 
 From Murray Bay to the Saguenay is . . . 44 " 
 
 (The fishins here as well as in the Marguerite has been described. ) 
 
 River Escoumain 23 " 
 
 ( Between it and the Saguenay are two branches of the Bergoronne, both furnish- 
 ing a few falmon and many trout. ) 
 
46 
 
 Salmon arui Trout Rivers. 
 
 River Portneuf . 
 
 (Plenty of trout and salmon. ) 
 
 Sault au Cochon 
 
 (Impassable for salmon, but full of trout.) 
 
 LaVal 
 
 iSaporiur salmon and trout fishing.) 
 
 Bcrsemis 
 
 2t) miles 
 9 " 
 
 24 " 
 
 (In all its tributaries many fine salmon; between it and La Val are the 
 Columbia, Plover, and Blanche, but all are poor SQimoastrea'?.'?.) 
 
 1 1 miles 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 IS 
 
 
 River Outardes 
 
 Manicouagan 
 
 Mistassimi . .• 
 
 Betscie 
 
 Godbout 
 
 (A celebrated salmon river, one of the beat io the Province.) 
 Trinity 
 
 (Good salmon and trout.) 
 
 Little Trinity 
 
 Calumet 
 
 Pentecost 
 
 (Not a salmon river.) 
 
 St. Margaret ....... 
 
 (One of the best salmon and trout rivers.) 
 
 Moisie 
 
 (Fine large salmon are taken in thia river, and it is widely celebrated.) 
 
 Trout 
 
 Manitou 
 
 (Good trout fishing; salmon are obstructed by falls.) 
 
 Sheldrake 
 
 Magpie 
 
 (rurnishes only a few salmon.) ' 
 
 St. John 5 " 
 
 (An admirable salmon stream.) 
 
 Mingan . . . ... . . 16 " 
 
 (Probably the best river in the Province for salmon and excellent for trout- ) 
 
 The streams emptying into the St. Lawrence from the 
 south shore, are not worth mentioning as salmon rivers, 
 having been ruined by mill-dams, except those that empty 
 
 10 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 36 
 
 
 23 
 ) 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 35 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 oo 
 
 
 I 
 
 : f! 
 

 
 « 
 
 
 « 
 « 
 
 ii 
 
 ^il 
 
 I 
 
' 
 
 y. 
 
! 
 
 vs 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 > 
 •A 
 
 -3 
 
 
 (C: 
 
 ) il 
 
 I 
 
 ,A: 
 
Eastern Townships. 
 
 47 
 
 into Gasp6 Basin, but they all afford superior trout fishinp^. 
 To Americans wishing to reach this section of country \vc 
 would say, take the route that will bring you to Boston beibre 
 half-past seven A.M., for at that hour the boat leaves for St. 
 Jrthr New Brunswick. If you are too late, you may by cars 
 intercept the same boat at Portland, or on its arrival there 
 take steamer to Calais, and thence by rail to Woodstock — 
 where stages connect by the Grand Portage road with Riviere 
 du Loup, and so with all the Lower St. Lawrence. The 
 Boston boat reaches St. John in about 32 hours — fare six 
 dollars, meals extra — consequently extra good. 
 
 'II 
 
 EASTERN TOWNSHIPS. 
 
 Leaving Point Levi for a trip through the Easter*^! Town- 
 ships, the traveller may look forward to enjoying as beautiful 
 a tract of country as perhaps any on the continent, both with 
 regard to mountain and lake scenery, beautiful rivers and 
 fertile valleys. The mountains, wooded generally from base 
 to summit, repose in majesty ; and as the mists, with which 
 their summits are not unfrequently crowned, withdraw them- 
 selves in folds along their sides, they reveal still more of the 
 beautiful and sublime. Chasms, ravines, and precipices are 
 there, and among their solitudes sublimity reigns. Beautiful 
 lakes lie scattered over the face of the country, bordered here 
 by gentle slopes, there by precipitous cliffs ; cultivated fields 
 and wide-spread pastures, with woods interspersed ; valleys 
 and plains adorned with farm houses, single or in groups, 
 and beautiful villages. The rocks of the Eastern Townships, 
 geologically speaking, are confined to the two lower series of 
 the Palieozoic era. These in Western Canada, from their 
 
 ;::ii 
 
 I 'I 
 
48 
 
 Eastern Toionships. 
 
 quiescent condition, ^nve a flat surface ; but here, beinj:^ dis- 
 turbcci and corru«;ated, they ^ive orij^in to a suriace beauti- 
 fully varied with hill and valley. The ])hysical structure of 
 this part of Canada is thus exceedingly comijlicated. The 
 rocks of which the district is composed abound in mineral 
 ores, and many beautiful varieties of marble. The lakes, 
 however, arc its great glory, l^y them the glens, the moun- 
 tains and the woods arc illumined ; reflected in this pure 
 element the great and stern objects of Nature stand out "a 
 second self." The first settlements in tlie Townships were 
 made about 1795 by families from Massachusetts, Vermont, 
 and New Hampshire ; and to those enterprising and adven- 
 turous pioneers is due, in a great measure, the prosperity 
 their descendants now enjoy. Then "tall pines, blackened 
 by fire, stood as monuments of the prevailing loneliness," and 
 the forest closed like a fortress round the first settler, whose 
 only hope against its shutting him in for life, was his axe. 
 How well that has been wielded, what hardships have been 
 undergone, what fortitude shewn, the smiling homestead and 
 thriving villages of to-day full truly record ; and the nearer 
 we approach the frontier lines, the more do the evidences of 
 prosperity increase, as it was there the first settlements were 
 made. The noble River St. Lawrence sweeps past in its 
 course to the ocean, on the north-west of these Townships. 
 Its banks still retain that remarkable boldness which they 
 possess at and near Quebec, till after passing Craig's Road, 
 where there is a remarkable cliff called the Devil's Bit, they 
 lose gradually the boldness of their features till they sink 
 into the flats of La Bale du Febvre. Soon after crossing 
 the Chaudi6re, the line recedes from the banks of the St, 
 Lawrence, running through the heart of the Townships, and 
 the country begins to assume a peculiarly picturesque aspect. 
 On the upper waters of the pretty river Nicolet we come to 
 Becancour and Somerset, forty-one and fifty miles respec- 
 tively from Quebec, south of which places, in the Townships 
 
ink 
 
 ms 
 
 ec- 
 ips 
 
 Eastern Townships. 
 
 49 
 
 f 
 
 t 
 
 of Inverness and Halifax, exist a chain of small lakes, not 
 remarkable for their scenery, but very romantic withal from 
 their diversity of hill and dale ; these lakes are connected 
 with one another by short rivers and rapids. Lake yoscph 
 is in Inverness, on the road to Halifax, a small village 
 twelve miles from Somerset Station, which lies on Lake 
 William, opposite to the village of St. Ferdinand. This 
 lake is about four miles long and one wide ; it is separated 
 from Trout Lake by a deep, crooked river, navigable for 
 canoes only. There is excellent fishing in all these waters ; 
 trout of all sizes, white fish, very large eels and pike are 
 abundant. The only accommodation to be had is at St. Fer- 
 dinand, where there is no difficulty in obtaining the use of a 
 boat. Near Trout Lake is the small village of Maple 
 Grove, connected with B^cancour Station by a daily stage. 
 The river connecting these lakes has no name, until a little 
 below I^ake Joseph, it takes the name of Thames, which 
 again further down at Lloyd's Falls — a romantic spot, and 
 where good trout fishing is to be had — is called the Btl'cancour. 
 Each branch of the Nicolet River is supplied from a lake 
 among the mountains, and throughout this vast tract of 
 country there can be found numbers of streams affording 
 water power which might be turned to profitable account with 
 no great outlay of capital. At a distance of sixty-four miles 
 from Quebec is Artiiabaska, the junction of the Three 
 Rivers branch of the Grand Trunk Railway, near which, at 
 Chester, are two mines very rich in copper ore, and also a 
 lead mine, whilst in South Ham, still further south, is a 
 valuable antimony mine and a lovely lake abounding with 
 trout, called Lake Nicolet. Ten miles from the station, in 
 Chester, is situated Rouillard Mountain, forty miles 
 distant in a direct line from the St. Lawrence : yet from the 
 summit of the mountain, on a clear day, that river can be 
 distinctly seen with a glass ; the forest between the mountain 
 and the river forms to the eye a most beautiful variegated 
 
 '■ t; 
 I 
 
 1 
 
50 
 
 Eastern Townships, 
 
 landscape, and in the months of June or October it appears 
 like a rich green or variegated carpet. Looking towards the 
 south you see a country much resembling North Wales or 
 Switzerland, in regard to scenery ; the mountains being 
 a continuation of the great Appalachian chain, and the 
 waters of Lakes St. Francis and Aylmer are clearly 
 visible. Lake St. Francis, whence issues the river of that 
 name, is about forty miles north-east (jf Sherbrooke. It is 
 about fourteen miles long, and from one to two wide ; the 
 country around is very sparsely settled, and the lumberer is 
 the chief pioneer of civilization in this part of the Townships. 
 Great quantities of valuable lumber are obtained yearly 
 throughout the whole of this region, and the principal part of 
 the lumber sawn at Brompton Falls, by C. S. Clark & Co., in 
 their extensive mills, is obtained from the forests about this 
 lake. Quite contiguous is Lake Ayltner, through which the 
 waters of the above lake pass on their course down the river 
 St. Francis ; this is also a pretty expanse of water. About 
 twenty miles south of these lakes, and about forty south- 
 east of Sherbrooke, near the boundary line of the State of 
 Maine, is Lake M^gantic, the source of the Chaudiere River, 
 whose banks have gained notoriety from the gold discoveries 
 recently made there. The lake is about sixteen miles long, 
 and two in breadth ; the country around it is not much 
 settled yet ; and still sufficiently remote from the haunts of 
 civilization for the beaver to be found on its tributaries. 
 The St. Francis Indians frequent this section of country, as 
 affording them good hunting grounds, and the lake itself 
 abounds with fish, their principal article of food. This 
 region, however, from the richness of its soil, must soon 
 become peopled. The mountains in the vicinity of the lake 
 have a considerable altitude, but their general aspect is not 
 so picturesque as that of the shores of some otlier lakes 
 hereafter to be described. The Chaudiere River, which 
 issues from this lake, passes through a valley of about loo 
 
 
Eastern Toivnships. 
 
 51 
 
 kes 
 ich 
 100 
 
 miles in length, by about thirty miles in breadth ; thus, in 
 its course, draining about 3,000 square miles of land of its 
 ,3 i redundant waters. Its breadth varies from 400 to 600 yards ; 
 
 its course is frequently interrupted by small, picturesque 
 islands, covered with hardwood timber, which add con- 
 siderably to its beauty. The banks of the Chaudi^re are, in 
 general, high and precipitous, — thickly clothed with verdure. 
 The bed of the river is rugged, and often much contracted 
 by rocks jutting out from the banks on either side, which 
 occasion violent rapids. Near the mouth of it are the cele- 
 brated falls described elsewhere. This stream has been 
 brought into notice within the last few years, from the 
 discoveries that have been made of gold in its bed, and the 
 washings of its sand-bars and bends. Gold has been known 
 to exist in the region through which it flows for some time, 
 but it never, till within the last three years, was thought to 
 exist in paying quantities. It exists in the quartz rocks 
 scattered through the country, and in alluvial and diluvial 
 deposits. As to the richness of the mines. Sir William 
 Logan says, " the deposits will not, in general, remunerate 
 unskilled labor, and that agriculturists and others engaged 
 in the ordinary occupations of the country would only lose 
 their labour by turning gold hunters." In some places, 
 however, gold has been found sufficiently plentiful to pay 
 the cost of procuring it. Several Companies are organized, 
 and have procured a considerable quantity of the precious 
 metal. Lake Megantic, or Cliaudihe Pond as it was then 
 called, has been rendered memorable in history, as the route 
 by which Arnold, in 1775, accomplished his perilous march 
 through the wilderness up the Kennebec, through Lake 
 Megantic, and down the Chaudi^re River to Quebec. The 
 account of his dreary march, and the perils that beset him, 
 are admirably set forth in the " Life of Arnold," by J. Sparks. 
 "VVe are told that a few French were settled some thirty 
 miles from the lake on the river, whose good wishes Arnold 
 
 !- I 
 
 < ii 
 
52 
 
 Eastern Townships. 
 
 assiduously courted, encouraging them to rally round his 
 standard, and to this day some few of the " oldest inhabitants" 
 recount to their children, probably handed down by their 
 fathers to them, the story of the " descent of the Bostonians," 
 as the only great public event that has ever occurred to vary 
 the monotonous incidents of the sequestered and beautiful 
 valley of the Chaudi^re. Years before, in i723-'24, the 
 Indians made all their incursions and ravages upon the 
 eastern part of Massachusetts Bay by this route, making a 
 portage from the head of the Chaudiere to the head waters 
 of the Kennebec. 
 
 Leaving Lake M^gantic, and going due West through a 
 section of country rapidly filling up with thriving home- 
 steads and substantial settlers, we come to Coaticooke, on 
 the Portland branch of the Grand Trunk Railway, nine miles 
 from the boundary line between the United States and Ca- 
 nada. On the river, which jrives its name to the village, are 
 a most romantic series of falls, or cascades, extending over a 
 mile in length ; these may be reached by leaving the high- 
 way between Compton and Coaticooke, at a point of the 
 road distant a mile from the latter village. The river runs 
 through a chasm of eighty or ninety feet deep, the rocks of 
 which are fringed with tangled masses of shrubs and trees, 
 hemlock and spruce predominating, which grow from e < "y 
 crevice and rent in the rocky walls. The falls impress the 
 beholder with sublimity and awe, not a little heightened by 
 the darkness and gloom the chasm adds to the scene. A few 
 miles west of Coaticooke, in the southern part of the Township 
 ofBarnston, we come upon a small lake, not generally 
 marked on any of our maps, called Little Baldivin or Pinnacle 
 Lake. This latter name it takes from a peculiar eminence 
 rising abruptly from the north-east shore of the lake to the 
 height of i,ooo feet, nearly perpendicularly from its base. 
 This is called "Pinnacle Mountain"; it is wooded for 
 nearly two-thirds of its height, but the remainder, up to its 
 
Eastern Townships. 
 
 53 
 
 very summit, is entirely destitute of trees, and nearly so- of 
 vegetation. The portion that is bare presents little else to 
 the view than great masses of granite rock, thrown together 
 apparently in one of Nature's wildest convulsions. No view 
 in the whole Eastern Townships presents so singular an ap- 
 pearance as this comparatively unknown spot. The bluff, 
 that rises perpendicularly from the water, seems, with its 
 storm-scathed brow, to prop the very heavens, its gray 
 shadows strongly contrasting with the deep blue sky ; when 
 seen at sunset through a hazy atmosphere and with a rich 
 glow of yellow and crimson, with clouds touching the out- 
 line of the distant hills, it recalls memories of Italian 
 landscapes, and paintings of the fancy viewed in boyhood's 
 days. In the distance the wood-crowned hills fade away ; in 
 the foreground the reflection of the mount on the lake renders 
 by contrast the height ten-fold. About ten miles west of this 
 lake lies Stanstead, more familiarly known as Stanstead 
 Plain, a very busy, thriving town, and the business centre 
 of this part of the country. It is beautifully situated on a 
 plain, whence its name, and commands a great range of 
 mountain scenery, extending along the Green Mountains of 
 Vermont, and their continuation into Canada. Rock-Island 
 is a village situated so near as to form part of Stanstead, 
 although out of the municipality. It is about equi-distant 
 (twenty miles) from five different railway stations, viz. : 
 Watcrville, Compton, Coaticooke and Island Pond, on the 
 Grand Trunk ; and Barton, Vt., on the Conn, and Pass. 
 Railroads : the latter line, it is expected, will be completed 
 to Newport, Vt., within seven miles, thus affording easier 
 access, although stage connection to all parts from here is 
 very good. The Stanstead, Shefford and Chambly Railroad, 
 whose terminus is now at Waterloo, when extended here will 
 form a link, the want of which is much felt. A stage 
 running from here to Compton, on the Grand Trunk Railway, 
 passes through Hatley, about a mile from which place lies 
 
54 
 
 Eastern Townships. 
 
 the lovely little lake of Massawippi, or Tomifobi, about nine 
 miles long, and from one mile to one mile and a half wide. 
 The scenery of this lake is very picturesque, and a greater 
 variety of fish is to be taken here than in any other lake in 
 the Townships. " Here are to be found," says Hunter, 
 " maskinongd, rock bass, black bass, the sucker, mullet, 
 common pike, pickerel, trout, the eel, and others of less 
 consequence." The access for fish through its outlet, the 
 River Massawippi, which connects the lake with tlie St. 
 Francis River at Lennoxville, being free from obstacles, 
 may account for the numbers with which it abounds. The 
 shores of this lake are richly wooded, and indented by 
 winding bays and points jutting into the lake, and by arrest- 
 ing the violence of the winds, cause it to present a continuous 
 mirror-like appearance. On the right bank of the lake is a 
 considerable elevation called Blackberry Mountain, a great 
 resort during the season for parties blackberry picking, that 
 fruit growing there very abundantly. A few miles west of 
 Massawippi is Lake Memphremagog, about thirty miles 
 long by a breadth of about two, though in some places it 
 widens into three or four miles. This lake, the lake of the 
 Townships, which has been not inaptly styled the Geneva 
 of Canada, lies in a semi-circular form, partly among the 
 mountains, and partly in the valley beyond, which obliquely 
 crosses the northern portion ; stretching its jiouthcrn ex- 
 tremity into the State of Vermont ; about one-third of the 
 lake belongs to the United States. Its Indian name was 
 " Memplowbowque," signifying a beautiful expanse of water. 
 The bosom of the lake is everywhere studded with islands, 
 generally covered with woods to the water's edge. The 
 boundary line crosses the lake, running through an island 
 known as Province Island. To do full justice to the scenery 
 of the lake, would require a small volume. The aspect 
 from the water of some of the mountains, which stretch 
 along its western shore, prominent among which is " Owl's 
 
Eastern Townships. 
 
 55 
 
 Head," with its conical outline, gives a truly Alpine character 
 to the scene. This mountain is well worthy of an ascent, 
 which takes about two hours, and is a comparatively easy 
 matter. Its height is 2,500 feet above the lake. The top 
 once gained, the toil is never regretted, from the magnificent 
 view obtainable from that elevation. The lake, with all its 
 beauty, lies spread out beneath in a grand panoramic view, 
 and in the far-off south we catch a glimpse, if the sky is 
 clear, of Willoughby Notch, in the State of Vermont. Near 
 Owl's Head are several islands, each of them named after 
 some natural peculiarity, or from some event connected with 
 their history. Of this latter class is Skinners Island, which 
 lies on the eastern shore opposite the mountain. This 
 takes its name, so tradition goes, from a celebrated smuggler 
 in 18 1 2, who, though the object of continual pursuit, in- 
 variably disappeared at this point, and being one day hard 
 pressed, the custom house boat, after a long chase, managed 
 to find his empty skiff concealed amongst its rocky shores. 
 No trace, however, could be found of the man ; the boat 
 was cut adrift, and he was seen and heard of no more. Ten 
 years later a fisherman, surprised by a sudden squall, was 
 compelled to seek refuge on the island, and so coasted along 
 the shore till he arrived at its northern point, close to 
 which he saw, as the wind tore away the entangled foliage, a 
 large fissure in the rocky side. Mooring his boat he entered 
 it ; the cave was some ten feet high, and extended about 
 thirty feet inwards. The first thing that met his eyes was 
 a skeleton, the remains of Skinner, who doubtless sought 
 refuge here, and could not get away again, as his boat had 
 been set adrift. Trailing shrubs and dense underwood had 
 probably covered the entrance, and the spot was com- 
 paratively unknown. The cave is an object of interest to 
 tourists, but difficult of access when the wind blows from the 
 west. Another favourite height with tourists is the Sugar 
 Loaf Mountain, from the summit of which the view over 
 
 ■I ■ 
 
56 
 
 Eastern Toiunships. 
 
 i i 
 
 Hn 
 
 Hatlcy, Stanstead and Magog Townships, with their niirnc- 
 roi s farm houses, and patches of woodland here and there, 
 presents a scene most decidedly English in appearance. 
 Directly below the mountain are seen Whetstone Island, 
 Round Island, and Magoon's Point, with its shores beautifully 
 skirted with woods, and its background finely diversified 
 with meadows. The whole eastern shore of the lake, with 
 its gentle slopes and cultivated farms, presents a pleasing 
 contrast to the bold, mountainous aspect of the west. A 
 great resort of families coming to " the lakes" is the pretty 
 village of Georgeville, rendered more agreeable by the daiiy 
 plying of the little steamer " Mountain Maid." The Camper- 
 down House is the principal hotel ; but if accommodation 
 can be procured (and it generally may be had) at a farm 
 house, by all means give it the preference ; for however 
 good an hotel may be, and however attentive the host, there 
 is a restraint and a certain feeling of uneasiness, which at 
 once vanishes in a quiet, country homestead. The lake 
 empties itself into the beautiful River St. Francis at Shcr- 
 brooke, by means of the River Magog, on which the water 
 power is very great. At the outlet of the lake is the pretty 
 village of Magog, where, in the rapids and pools of the 
 stream, the disciple of old Izaak Walton will find splendid 
 trout fishing, the fish weighing from one to six pounds, and 
 he can here, v/ithout any inconvenience, throw the fly, which 
 the generality of trout streams debar the use of, from the too 
 close growth of the trees of the forest. A live minnow is 
 also an excellent bait where the rapids are not too strong, and 
 a good, lively worm seldom fails to attract ; but the trout is 
 proverbially one of the most skittish of all the finny tribes, 
 though when hungry he is fearless as the hawk. The tyro at 
 the sport will often find his gut snapped, his jointed rod 
 broken in pieces and rendered useless, while the simple 
 country urchin at his side, with a coarse line five or six feet 
 long, tied to a short stick, will jerk them out as rapidly as 
 
 i 
 
Eastern Toionships. 
 
 57 
 
 his clumsy hook touches the water. This village, Magog, 
 will shortly be \ ery easy of access, as it is the intention of 
 the Stanstead and Shefford Railway Company to extend their 
 line to this place, connecting, by means of Lake Memphre- 
 magog and the steamer " Mountain Maid," with the contem- 
 plated terminus of the Conn, and Pass. Railway at Newport, 
 Vt., as well as a direct land connection between the roads, 
 which will be made at .Stanstead, thus furnishing another 
 means of communication for the traveUing public, between 
 Montreal, the White Mountains, Boston and New York, 
 either for business or for pleasure. 
 
 Near the northern extremity of the lake to the west is 
 Orfokd Mountain, the highest elevation in the Townships, 
 being about 4500 feet in height. From its summit the view 
 may be almost called unique, as you may see the waters of 
 eighteen lakes. At its own base the waters of Orford Lake 
 assume a dark and dreary appearance, probably from the 
 shade of their overhanging mountain, and although there 
 are the same natural accompaniments of scenery as the other 
 lakes possess, yet there is a dreary, desolate appearance about 
 this spot, heightened perhaps by the seemingly interminable 
 forest of pines, which gives an idea of isolation. 
 
 The Town of Sherbrooke, the metropolis of the Town- 
 ships, is situated at the confluence of the Magog and St. 
 Francis Rivers. The position of the town, rising from the 
 beautiful valley of the St. PVancis, on a series of falls, three- 
 quarters of a mile in length, and having a total height of 100 
 feet, is most romantic, and lying as it does almost equidistant 
 from Montreal, Quebec, and Portland, on the great artery, the 
 Grand Trunk Railway, it is destined to reach a high position 
 of prosperity. Owing to its splendid water-power a number 
 of factories and industrial works are in operation here. Sher- 
 brooke is the most important way station of the Grand 
 Trunk Railway between Montreal and Portland ; and trom 
 its happy position near to and amidst fine scenery, a very 
 
58 
 
 Eastern ToivnsJiips. 
 
 considerable stream of pleasure travel passes through it dur- 
 ing the summer months, — a daily stage connecting it with 
 Memphremagog, sixte ^n miles distant. The jail and court 
 house here ar fnc ' ., Mings, occupying a commanding site. 
 
 The St. Fra- ;>. j\ —^r, which we touched on before at its 
 source in Lakcs^ - i'i ^ncis and Aylmer, receives as tribu- 
 taries, before reaching She ., 'ooke, the Salmon, the Eaton, the 
 Coaticooke, Massawippi, and Magog Rivers, and henceforth 
 assumes more of the character of a river winding on its 
 northward course through a lovely expanse of country to 
 empty its waters into the St. Lawrence, at the head of Lake 
 St. Peter. At East Sherbrooke its banks are sloping, of but 
 a .slight elevation, clothed with rich meadow land, and skirted 
 by beautiful elms, overhanging the river side. As we follow 
 its course (and the railway runs beside it up to Richmond) 
 we here see a valley, whose fertility greatly contrasts with 
 the forest we have left. At certain points the level ground 
 is limited to the breadth of the road ; on one side we see 
 hundreds of feet below us ; on the other we are closed in by 
 a precipice high over our heads. Emerging from a defile 
 v/e come in full view of the river, on one side a farm-house 
 or little hamlet, on the other a cascade, a factory, or mill, 
 around which are tasteful dwellings, and frequently a pretty 
 village church. From its source to its termination it exhibits 
 one continued series of the most delightful and varied scenery. 
 No one who "has ever seen it can forget the valley of the St. 
 Francis, yet among the numbers who yearly perambulate 
 Canada in quest of scenic beauty, how few visit this pictur- 
 esque spot. 
 
 South of Sherbrooke some three miles is LENNOXViLLii;, 
 where the Massawippi joins its waters to the St. Francis, 
 and well known as being the seat of Bishops' College, the 
 Oxford of Canada, an excellent Episcopalian institution, pro- 
 vided with a staff of thoroughly sound professors, both in 
 the college and grammar school attached to it, which may 
 
 I 
 
Eastern Townships. 
 
 59 
 
 see 
 
 not inaptly be called the Eton or Rugby of Young Canada. 
 Near Lennoxville there are some rich copper and lead mines, 
 which have added materially to the increase and prosperity 
 of the village within the last few years. 
 
 Brompton Falls, seven miles from Sherbrooke, on the 
 St. Francis, is important principally on account of its large 
 lumbering operations and saw-mills; the establishment of 
 C. S. Clarke & Co. here being one of the largest iv C'^. 
 country, and rivalling any of those on the Ottawa. Iiic . 
 are a number of other small lakes lying in this vicini* y, ''.ucli 
 as Brompton Lake, Stukcly, Brome, &c. ; but the £. .i.er of 
 all is so similar, that to enumerate their beauties .vol,' J Lc 
 but to reiterate what has already been said, both \ . r^;;ard 
 to their localities and the fishing they afiford. 
 
 At the junction of the Quebec and Portland branches of 
 the Grand Trunk is situated Richmond, ninety-six miles 
 from Quebec and seventy-six from Montreal. It is a place 
 that does not seem to have thriven equally with the other 
 towns of this part of Canada, and yet the whole township in 
 which it lies possesses numerous mill-sites, and there are 
 some valuable copper mines and slate quarries in its imme- 
 diate vicinity. The Balrath copper mine is only five miles 
 distant, and is in full operation ; several others also have 
 lately been opened, and the whole range of rocks here seem 
 highly metalliferous. St. Francis College, standing as it 
 does on a hill, is a building that attracts notice from which- 
 ever side you approach Richmond. There is nothing of 
 architectural beauty about it, but its prominence brings it to 
 the notice of every passer by. The institution was founded 
 and is carried on, on unsectarian principles, and has been 
 afiiliated with McGill College. Opposite to Richmond, across 
 the St. Francis, and one mile distant, connected by a covered 
 bridge, is the village of Melbourne. The river is here 
 characterized by the same beauty which distinguishes it at 
 Sherbrooke, its continuous windings adding so much to the 
 
 1l 
 
6o 
 
 liastci n Tonjnships. 
 
 
 scene, and the contrast between the uninteresting flat coun- 
 try from St. Hyacinthe to this point, where the traveller 
 coming eastwards first strikes this river, is the more pleasing. 
 From hence the St. Francis pursues its northerly course, 
 and the railway leaves its valley and stretches at right 
 angles, east and west, for Quebec or Montreal. 
 
 On the Quebec branch, eight miles east of Richmond, is 
 Danville, around which the country is of a highly agricul- 
 tural nature. Although it is but a small village, there is an 
 academy here fitted up with complete astronomical and 
 philosophical apparatus. The view from the village square 
 looking eastwards towards Tingwick is park-like and hand- 
 some. From "Claremont Hill," one mile distant, the pros- 
 pect is beautiful, and at sunrise is perfectly magnificent. A 
 cone-shaped hill called "The Pinnacle," three miles from 
 the village, rises looo feet, nearly perpendicularly above the 
 plain, over which it towers, a landmark to be seen for miles 
 distant. From it Sherbrooke, thirty-six miles distant, can 
 be easily seen with a glass. Kingsey Church, twelve miles 
 distant, is visible to the naked eye ; — this mountain is a 
 favourite resort for pic-nic parties. A visit to Nicolet Falls, 
 two miles, and Kingsey Falls, seven miles distant, will afibrd 
 a pleasant excursion, to say nothing of the fish to be found 
 there. From a high ridge on the highway leading from 
 Shipton to Danville, the view perhaps is equal to any in the 
 Townships. Slate quarries have been recently opened in 
 the Township of Kingsey, and the slate is said in composi- 
 tion ^o resemble the finest Welsh slate. 
 
 Leaving Richmond westwards we come to Acton or 
 Acton Vale, twenty miles distant, where are very rich copper 
 mines, the produce of which is valued at j^ 1 50 per ton ; the 
 facilities for the transportation of the mineral to any part 
 from here are excellent, and these mines rank next in pro- 
 ductiveness to the Copper districts of Lake Superior. 
 RoxTON Falls, six miles distant, connected by a daily 
 
 
 
Eastern Toivnships. 
 
 6r 
 
 stage, is a very pretty place, the Black A' /wr passing directly 
 through the village, and affording great water-power ; it is 
 noted for its manufacture of sole leather, of which large 
 quantities are annually exported. Traces of gold have been 
 found at Acton, but in too small quantities to repay the 
 search. Upton, si.x miles further on the railroad, has noth- 
 ing of any interest, except a number of small rapids on the 
 White Run, one mile distant, where there are abundance of 
 trout. The only other feature of interest that we meet with 
 now, the whole country here being very flat, is St. Hva- 
 ciNTiiE, 35 miles from Montreal. This is one of the four 
 cities of Lower Canada, situated on the Yamaska River, 
 which divides it into two parts, and it is possessed of a large 
 local trade. There are a number of really elegant public 
 buildings here, of which the college is the most deserving 
 of notice. It is a handsome cut stone building, over 700 
 feet in length, and surmounted by a well proportioned cupola, 
 from the top of which a fine view is to be had. The course 
 of studies here is said to be only equalled by the best Jesuit 
 Colleges in France. The chemical laboratory, physical and 
 astronomical apparatus and library, are of the highest order, 
 and every facility is offered for a thorough university educa- 
 tion. The Cathedral here is also a fine building. The 
 annual autumn meeting of the Montreal Turf Club is held 
 here, and the pleasure grounds of the Hon. M. Laframboise 
 are a favorite resort for pic-nic parties. The section of 
 country from St. Hyacinthe to Montreal is essentially French 
 Canadian, and the provincial word habitant is said to be more 
 strictly applicable to the inhabitants here than in any part of 
 Canada ; the proper interpretation of this word, the people 
 who cultivate small farnis^ is fully exemplified here ; and from 
 spots by the roadside marking the boundaries of parishes, or 
 perhaps with some trifling legend attached to them, being 
 rendered prominent by large wooden crosses, the mind at 
 once distinguishes the gradual change from the English set- 
 
 ■'! 
 
0t Montreal. 
 
 tlemcnts of ihc Eastern Townships to the French localities 
 and French farming. As the traveller ncars Montreal the 
 towering hills of IJelcEil, Yamaska, Rougcmont, Mount John- 
 son and 13oucherville diversify the view, till, passing through 
 the Victoria Bridge, he finds himself in sight of, and almost 
 at the foot of, that well-knowii landmark, He •nountain uf 
 Montreal. 
 
 >IONTREAL 
 
 Montreal, the metropolis of British North America, is 
 situated on an island of the same name, about thirty miles 
 long and ten in the extreme breadth, which is formed by a 
 branch of the Ottawa on the north and the St. Lawrence on 
 the south. It is the head of ocean navigation, and the com- 
 mencement of lake and river communication. The city lies 
 at the foot of a mountain, to which Jacques Cartier, in 1535, 
 surveying with delight the magnificent prospect, gave the 
 name of Mont Royal. An Indian village existed here at his 
 first visit, called Hochelaga, which he described as being 
 encompassed by three separate rows of palisades, having 
 only one entrance, and that "guarded by pikes and staves, 
 as a means of defence against hostile tribes." It first began 
 to be settled by Europeans in 1542, and exactly one century 
 after, the spot destined for the city was consecrated with 
 due solemnities, commended to the " Queen of the Angels," 
 and called Ville-Marie, a name which it retained for a long 
 period. Passing down the stream of time to 1 760, the date 
 of British possession, we find Montreal a well peopled town, 
 "of an oblong form, surrounded by a wall, flanked with, 
 eleven redoubts, — a ditch about eight feet deep and of a 
 
ough 
 

 I ) 
 
 
 
 \i 
 
o 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 -."^ 
 
 
 t3 
 
 i 
 
Montreal. 
 
 63 
 
 proportionable width, but dry, and a fort and citadel." Follow- 
 ing down another century of time the change is still greater ; 
 industry, intelligence, labour, and capital have produced 
 at the present time still more remarkable changes." The 
 city of to-day as seen from any approach, with the mountain 
 in the back-ground, together with its beautiful villas, its 
 glittering roofs and domes (all the latter being covered with 
 tin) tall spires and lofty, towers, presents to the beholder a 
 vast and picturesque panorama. It extends in frontage 
 on the St. Lawrence about three miles, and is remarkable 
 for its excellent quays and esplanade or terrace, built of 
 limestone, and present ng, together with the cut stone locks 
 of the Lachine Canal, a display of continuous masonry un- 
 equalled on this continent. In this way the city is protected 
 from the annual phenomenon arising from the breaking up 
 of the ice, which frequently is piled up mountains high, and 
 departs at masse, crushing against the unyielding quays. 
 The appearance the river presents at that time is very impos- 
 ing and the sight is unique, for there is no other place where 
 the packing and shoving of the ice are so grandly displayed. 
 For the benefit of those who have never w^itnessed this 
 spectacle we will attempt to describe it. When the ice has 
 become stationary at the foot of the St. Mary's current 
 (about a mile below the city) the water quickly rises above ; 
 and the confined nature of this part of the channel affords a 
 more ready resistance to the progress of the floating masses. 
 It is at this period that the grandest movements of the ice 
 occur. From the effect of packing and piling and the freezing 
 of the whole into a solid body, it sometimes attains a thick- 
 ness of from ten to twenty feet : when a sudden rise in the 
 waters lifting up a vast expanse of the whole covering of the 
 river, so high as to free and start it from the many places 
 where it rests on the bottom, the vast mass is set in motion 
 by the whole hydraulic power of this gigantic stream. 
 Proceeding onwards, it piles up over every obstacle it 
 
64 
 
 Montreal. 
 
 I! \ 
 
 encounters, and when forced into a naiTow channel the 
 lateral pressure it there exerts, drives the bordagc up the 
 banks, where it sometimes accumulates forty or fifty i'eet 
 high. Broken by the massive revetment wall of the quays, 
 the ice piles on the street or terrace surmounting it and 
 there stops ; but before the wall was built the sloping bank 
 guided the moving mass to the walls of gardens and houses 
 in a very dangerous manner, and many accidents used to 
 occur. It has been known to pile up against the side of a 
 house more than two hundred feet from the margin of the 
 river, and there break in the windows of the second floor, 
 The " ice-shove" is a sight that a stranger may see only once 
 in a lifetime ; and to such as ma)'- be visiting the city ai the 
 end of March or beginning of April, we would urge p. con^ 
 tinuous look out as the thaw sets in, to get a glimpse of ttn.^ 
 grandest of ice movements. 
 
 The slopes of the mountain in rear of Mont'oal are *vooc'.;c' 
 nearly to the summit ; but towards the base the A •• ^t tPics 
 have given place to orchards, that produce apples, pears arid, 
 plums of the choicest kind. ,* -Irivc round the mountain is 
 one of the most delightful imagi.sabo , < ommanding a view 
 of the city and the valky of the St L iwrence on the one 
 side, and on the other, of the flat country that stretches 
 northward to the confines of the island, washed by the " Back 
 River" or Ottawa, and studded with pinnacles and towers 
 of convents and religious houses. Diverging from this drive 
 the tourist should visit the Protestant or Mount Royal 
 Cemetery on the St. Laurent side, and the French Cemetery 
 on the Cote des Neiges side, near where the road crosses the 
 spur of the mountain that overlooks the city. In the former 
 cspocially there are some fine monuments, the Molson Mau- 
 soleum attracting especial notice ; the whole cemetery is 
 tistt.fclly laid out, and Tom its natural position is one of the 
 most beaut:' a 1 in Canada. 
 
 Montreal abound-- in public buildings: the principal of 
 
 l\ 
 
Montreal. 
 
 65 
 
 
 which is the Cathedral of Notre Dame. This is said to be 
 the largest building in the New World, being 255 feet long 
 and 135 broad ; its two towers are each 220 feet high ; and 
 its great bell weighs 29,4CX) pounds. In the north-east tower 
 are a chime of bells, while the north-west one contains the 
 monster bell, which is named "Gros Bourdon," from its deep 
 bass tone. This tower is always open to the public, on pay- 
 ment cf a small fee, and from the summit a most magnificent 
 prospect is obtained. In the far distance the blue hills ot 
 Vermont tower up; a magnificent plain, stretching .nilcs 
 and miles 1 either hand, studded with cultivated farms ; 
 the splendid River St. Lawrence, two miles wide, interven- 
 ing, crossed by the tubular bridge, and stretching away like 
 a silver thread in the far off distance. The cost of the 
 edifice was ;^ 100,000. The ground floor is covered with 
 pews capable of seating 8000 persons, and the galleries will 
 hold about 2000 more. To see this church crowded, as is 
 the case at the Fete Dieu or Corpus Cferisti, or on any par- 
 ticular holiday, is a most imposing sight, and one that will 
 never be forgotten by the spectator. 
 
 The Bonsecoiir Market is the next most imposing building, 
 being erected at a cost of ;^75,ooo. It has a front of three 
 stories, the upper part being occupied by the various ofiic s 
 of the city. The market is remarkably spacious and c 1- 
 venient in its arrangements, eclipsing anything of the 'uid 
 on the continent. 
 
 The Hotel Dietu, in the northern outskirts of the city, 
 near the village of Mile-end, is well worth, seeing ; th Con- 
 vents of Notre Dame, and the Grey Sisters, with St. Anne's 
 Church, St. Mary's College, and the new Church of the 
 Jesuits on Bleury Street, the English Cathedral, the new 
 Trinity Church on St. Denis Street, McGill College, the 
 Court House, Molson's Bank, and Bonsecour Church (the 
 oldest in the city) are all worthy of a visit. The Musoim 
 of the Natural History Society, near the Crystal Palace, 
 
 V. 
 
 II 
 
 ui 
 
 * ii 
 
66 
 
 Montreal. 
 
 I 
 
 is well worth seeing, to which admission can be had on pay- 
 ment of 25 cents. The birds here are very well arranged 
 and present a very good collection of Canadian species; 
 and the "Ferrier Collection" of Egyptian antiquities is as 
 perfect as perhaps any on this continent. The whole insti- 
 tution reflects great credit on the Society and the Curator. 
 
 But the lion par excellence of Montreal, the eighth wonder 
 of the world, is the Victoria Bridge, the link in the Grand 
 Trunk Railway, connecting (for railway purposes only) the 
 City of Montreal, on the island, with the mainland to the 
 south, giving ^Toixtreal an unbroken railway communication 
 of I IOC miles in length, besides connections. ' It is of iron, 
 on tlic tubular principle, and is the most remarkable structure 
 of the kind in the world. The bridge has two long abut- 
 ments and twenty-four piers of solid stone masonry. In 
 the whole history of engineering, no other so truly gigantic 
 \\\ undertaking is met with. It is t..j creation of the same 
 genius that spannedithe Menai Straits ; Mr. Robert Stephen- 
 son and Mr. A. M. Ross being the engineers of this great 
 work. Each buttress is calculated 10 withstand the pressure 
 of seventy thousand tons of ice when the winter breaks up 
 and the large ice-fields come sweeping down the St. Law- 
 rence ; and the western faces of the piers, that is, those 
 towards the current, which flows through them at a rate 
 varying from seven to ten miles an hour, terminate in a 
 sharp pointed edge, and the fore part of each presents two 
 beautifully smooth beveled-ofi" surfaces. They are so shaped 
 in order to otter the least possible resistance to the ice. 
 The stone used in the construction of the piers and abut- 
 ments is a dense blue limestone, partly obtained from a 
 qua'Ty at Pointe Claire, eighteen miles above Montreal, and 
 partly from a quarry on the borders of Vermont, about forty 
 mil'b distant. The blocks of stone are bound together not 
 only with the best water cement, but each stone is clamped 
 to its neighbor in several places by massive iron rivets, 
 
Montreal. 
 
 67 
 
 
 bored several inches into each block, and the interstices 
 between the rivet and the block made one solid mass by 
 n^eans of molten lead. The two centre piers are each 18 
 feet wide — the centre span 330 feet wide, and each of the 
 other spans 242 feet. The total length of the bridge is 9194 
 feet ; the centre tube 60 feet from the surface of summer 
 water ; the aggregate length of solid abutments 2600 feet ; 
 iron tubing 6594 feet ; cost of the bridge $6,300,000. The 
 floor of the bridge rises one foot in 1 1 2 from extremities to 
 centre. 
 
 Every tourist ought to visit the bridge before leaving 
 Montreal, and if possible go through it on foot. The in- 
 terior, when viewed by the dim light of a lamp or lantern, — 
 the opening by which you entered growing smaller and smaller 
 in the distance as you approach the middle till i* ouiy shines 
 faintly like a pale blue star, — the hoarse rumbling and vibra- 
 tion caused by the slightest sound, striving for escape from 
 its hollow prison, — inspire a feeling almost of awe and 
 reverence. To look from one of the openings in the centre 
 piers on to the St. Lawrence rushing past in one grand 
 stream far below, sweeping under the bridge in eddies and 
 whirlpools, or bursting into little spirts of angry foam as they 
 touch the sharp edges of the masonry — to look along the 
 sides of the iron tube, which taper away at each end in the 
 distance till it seems a mere reed of metal, one cannot but 
 be astounded not only how such a design was ever carried 
 out, but how it could ever have been conceived as practicable. 
 
 The Grand Trunk Railway is entitled to notice in 
 connection with the bridge, both on account of its magni- 
 tude and importance. Portland, New York and Boston by 
 its means are brought into daily communication with Mont- 
 real ; while to the West, unbroken connection with the 
 Western .States, and every place of importance on the lakes, 
 is afibrded. The village of Point St. Charles, the original 
 depot of the Grand Trunk for the city, has entirely grown 
 
 n 
 
 iiii 
 
68 
 
 MontreaL 
 
 V. el 
 
 up in connection with the works and factories of the Com- 
 pany ; and with its library and reading room open to its 
 employes, its church and its school house,, perhaps no other 
 public body pays so great a regard to the welfare of its 
 dependants. Allans' line of ocean steamers, carrying the 
 mails weekly, connects Montreal with Liverpool, loading in 
 Montreal and sailing from Quebec in summer and Portland 
 (Maine) in winter ; and during the season of navigation 
 steamers ply daily to all the principal cities and towns in the 
 Province situated on the lakes and rivers. If the traveller, 
 in the height of summer, fancies that, from the absence of 
 vessels from the harbor at that period, trade is declining, he 
 must bear in mind that the main commerce is in the spring 
 and fall, when the so-called spring and fall fleet arrive, dis- 
 charge, take in cargo, and are off again ; the shortness of 
 the summer season rendering haste indispensable; conse- 
 quently, the middle of summer sees the harbor comparatively 
 empty of sea-going vessels, but the trade going on is internal. 
 
 At Point St. Charles, on the eastern side of the abutment 
 of brie i.e, is a curiously shaped massive stone, resting on a huge 
 rock, the whole from fifteen to eighteen feet high, and enclosed 
 with a neat white railing, covering about half an acre in 
 extent ; this was erected by the workmen of the bridge to 
 commemorate the spot where some 6,500 victims of the Irish 
 ship fever were buried in thu fatal summer of 1847, ^^ huts 
 or sheds for the shelter of the emigrants during that season 
 having been erected on the common there. In the small 
 bay below, during the drought of summer, the naturalist will 
 find the small pools abounding with fresh water shells, 
 several species of tmio, limncea, etc., not commonly met with, 
 being very numerous here. 
 
 One of the best views of the city is to be obtained from 
 the Reservoir behind McGill College, and a visit to the 
 Water Works, near the little River St. Pierre, is a plea- 
 sant excursion. A drive out to Lachine by the Upper 
 
Montreal. 
 
 69 
 
 Road, through the Tanneries, where is a regular old fashioned 
 French Church, returning by the Lower Road, past the 
 rapids (to be presently described) is very pleasant, both 
 roads being in excellent condition. Lachine is said to have 
 taken its name from the fact of Champlain in 161 3 having 
 applied it to the river above the rapids, meaning to 
 point out that it was the way to China, so firmly was he 
 convinced of this in his own mind. It is a pretty little 
 village, divided into Upper and Lower Lachine, and is a 
 great resort in summer for the business people of Montreal, 
 who find it easy of access. There is excellent boating to be 
 had here, and boats can always be procured at the Ottawa 
 Hotel, kept by Mr. Laflamme. 
 
 Another beautiful drive is out to the Back River by the 
 Mile-end road, to the village of St. Vincent de Paul and the 
 Sault au Recollet and Priests' Island, a lovely spot, framed 
 for pic-nics, well wooded and close to a picturesque old mill, 
 where certain conveniences requisite for parties "outing" 
 can be had. From whatever side we approach the city on 
 our return, the scene is magnificent ; but perhaps from the 
 river, taking in at one view, the splendid towers of the 
 Cathedral, the tall spires of Christ Church Cathedral, St. 
 Patrick's Church, &c., the elegant front of Bonsecour Market, 
 and the noble old mountain in the background, the tout en- 
 semble is perhaps scarcely equalled in America. 
 
 The Champ de Mars, in front of the Court House, is a 
 .splendid parade ground, and kept in excellent order ; and 
 the visitor should not fail to view the exercise and parade of 
 the tlilTureut regiments in the garrison, which daily takes 
 place here in summer. At night, too, there is generally a 
 military band playing here, and on certain days in McGill 
 College grounds and Viger Square, making those places a 
 fashionable lounge, with its enlivening strains. 
 
 Perhaps no other city of its age and size possesses so few 
 historical attractions. In 1668, a party of Iroquois Indians* 
 
 (■; 
 
 / ; 
 
 il 
 
fO 
 
 Montreal. 
 
 • 
 
 the inveterate enemies of the French, stealthily landed their 
 canoes on Montreal Island, and massacred indiscriminately^ 
 men, women and children, to the number of about 2,000. 
 It, however, was soon peopled again, and continued for a 
 long time the headquarters of the French forces in Canada. 
 After the peace in 1763, it was surrendered to the English, 
 who held it until 1775, when it was taken by the Americans 
 under General Montgomery. In 1763 and 1766, the city 
 suffered from two severe fires, the first destroying 108 houses, 
 the other 90. In 1776 Montreal was again surrendered to 
 the British, reinforcements under General Burgoyne having 
 driven the Americans from the Province. The old fortifica- 
 tions were a substantial quadrangular stone wall, fifteen feet 
 high with battlements, having six or seven gates, and a 
 bastion and redoubt called the citadel, on what is now Dal- 
 housie Square. The name, however, now only remains^ 
 Fortification Lane having probably run at the foot of the 
 walls. The water front of the Quebec Gate barrack i6 
 supposed to be built upon a part of it, and is the only portion 
 left, being, with the old barrack on Water Street, near the 
 Military Hospital, the only vestige remaining of French mili- 
 tary power in the city. St. Helen's Island has now taken the 
 place of a citadel, and being not only a strong military camp, 
 but also beautifully wooded, should be visited by the tourist 
 if possible, an order being easily obtainable on application 
 to the Military Secretary or the Town Major. 
 
 The immediate vicinity of Montreal affords very little 
 sporting. There is pretty fair pike fishing directly after the 
 break up of the frost at St. Lambert's, opposite the city, and 
 an occasional bass and dore may be taken during the summer ; 
 but the incessant traffic of steamers, together with the 
 destruction of fish during the spawning season, has made 
 the fish very scarce. At the foot of Lachine Rapids good 
 fly fishing may be had in summer, but only for white fish 
 and chub, which rise eagerly at a fly. The Back River, eight 
 
Montreal. 
 
 71 
 
 miles north of the city, affords fair pike fishing in spring, and 
 bass fishing in August ; but for a thorough day's sport we 
 would recommend our traveller to take the morning train 
 to Lachine, have a boat ready for him there, or at Caughna- 
 waga, and an Indian to paddle him up to the mouth of the 
 Chateauguay River ; there he will find fish enough to fill his 
 basket and afford him all the sport of this part of the St. 
 Lawrence waters, from a maskinong6 to a goodly sized perch. 
 No other good fishing ground is to be met with nearer than 
 Boucherville or St. Johns, and for trout than New Glasgow, 
 some twenty-seven miles northwards. 
 
 The shooting, too, in the vicinity is one of the things that 
 were. A few snipe are to be had near the Water Works and 
 in the swamps along the River St. Pierre ; also on the road to 
 the Back River, near a place known as Bougies Comers, there 
 is good snipe ground. Woodcock are plentiful in some 
 seasons in the cedar swamps of the island, but the nearest 
 good cock shooting to the city is at St. Andrews, on the 
 Ottawa, and at Norton Creek. A few ducks may be had in 
 the spring and fall near Lachine, taking the islands on the 
 Caughnawaga side ; but the islands at Boucherville afford 
 excellent sport. The absence of any really good sporting 
 on the island, however, is compensated for in the Montreal 
 Fox Hounds, a subscription pack, which would do credit to 
 any Leicester field, and which are ably managed and hunted 
 as long as the season permits. They seldom or never fail to 
 "find," and, meeting always within easy distance of the city, 
 they afford a healthy means of exercise to the lover of the 
 chase. Since the garrison has been here of late years, the 
 races and steeple chases have become quite an institution ; 
 and snow shoe clubs, skating rinks (of which the Victoria 
 carries the palm) cricket and base ball, afford plent of amuse- 
 ment to the less ardent admirer of sports. Unenticing as 
 the word " Rink" may be to strangers, few places are more 
 fondly regarded by the youthful portion of the community 
 
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 during winter. Those unacquainted with the glorious 
 Northern sport of skating, can form no idea of the fascina- 
 tion it exercises over those who indulge in it. After once 
 the frost sets in sufficiently severe to form the ice, the rink 
 is seldom empty. At " The Victoria," military bands per- 
 form frequently, and fancy-dress entertainments take place 
 two or three times during the season, which are thronged by 
 enthusiastic skaters and spectators. The effect of this stir- 
 ring crowd, with the inspiring music, brilliant lights, and 
 extra illuminations, render it more like a palace of fairy land 
 than of earth. At Guilbault's Garden, on Upper St. Law- 
 rence Street, there is a very good menagerie of wild beasts, 
 and the garden is pleasantly laid out and well worth the 
 entrance fee of 25 cents. With regard to game, great thanks 
 are duv, to the "Fish and Game Protection Club," for their ' 
 active exertions in endeavouring to enforce the laws, and it 
 is to be hoped that the fish will again return to their old 
 haunts in the course of a few years. 
 
 The visitor must not leave Montreal without paying a 
 visit to the Rapids, and coming over or "shooting" them, as 
 it is called. For this purpose he must take the early train 
 to Lachine, take one of the boats that touch there at about , 
 eight a. m., and having accomplished his object, he finds 
 himself again in Montreal by nine, with an appetite for break- 
 fast improved by his morning's outing. The sensation of 
 shooting the Rapids being associated with danger, may deter 
 invalids or nervous persons from attempting the feat ; we " 
 therefore give a description for the benefit of those who 
 cannot enjoy the scene themselves : — 
 
 After taking passage on the steamer at Lachine, the best 
 position the tiaveller can take is on the upper deck, beside 
 the wheel-house, as being able to view from thence, without \ 
 being wet by the spray, the whole scene. The steamer wiJ \ 
 lie to opposite Caughnawaga for two or three minutes, wait- 
 ing i'or an Indian pilot to come on board. As great nerve 
 
Ml 
 
 Montreal. 
 
 73 
 
 l.i 
 
 and force and precision are required in piloting, few but 
 Indians can be had willing to undertake the perilous task, 
 which, however, is to them a matter of every day occurrence ; 
 use is second nature, and so with them ; the hawk's-eye glance 
 of the pilot, when at his post, and the stern determination 
 on his features, are a picture that want the pen of a Cooper 
 to describe. As soon as the vessel feels the influence of 
 the rapids, in an increased swiftness, steam is shut off, and 
 she is carried onwards by their force alone. Suddenly a 
 scene of wild grandeur bursts upon the eye; waves are 
 lashed into spray and into breakers of a thousand forms by 
 the submerged rocks which they are dashed against in the head- 
 long impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools, a storm lashed 
 sea, the chasm below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity in 
 a single rapid. In an instant you are in the midst of them. 
 Now passing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks, 
 which, did your vessel but touch them, would reduce her to 
 an utter wreck before the crash could sound upon the ear ; 
 did she even diverge in the least from her course — if her 
 head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid, 
 she would be instantly submerged and rolled over and over. 
 And here is shown the necessity of enormous pow^er over 
 her rudder. Before us is an absolute precipice of waters ; 
 on every side of it breakers, like dense avalanches, are 
 thrown high into the air. Ere we can take a glance at the 
 scene, the boat descends the wall of waves and foam like a 
 bird, and in a second afterwards you are floating on the calm 
 unruffled bosom of "below the rapids." Unlike the ordinary 
 pitching and tossing at sea, this going down hill by water 
 produces a peculiar sensation, which, as the vessel glides 
 from ledge to ledge of rock, feels like settling down. The 
 traveller who runs the rapids for the first time, is almost 
 sure to involuntarily hold his breath at this feeling. Occa- 
 sionally, too, the vessel seems to be directly running on a 
 ledge of rocks, and you feel certain she will strike ; but the 
 
 111 t 
 
 HI 
 
Montreal to Lake Champlain 
 
 skilful hand at the helm suddenly whirls you into a different 
 channel, and in an instant more it is passed in safety. Such 
 is "shooting the rapids;" but no words can convey a fitting 
 idea of the thrilling excitement that is felt during the few 
 moments of the passage. It is one of the sublime experiences 
 which can never be forgotten, and never adequately described. 
 It is in the highest degree creditable to the skill and care of 
 all connected with this branch of river navigation, that no 
 accident of any consequence has ever happened, nor has a 
 single life been lost in this beautiful but dangerous spot. 
 
 f, »; 
 
 
 ;;ff^i (' 
 
 ( ■ ' " 
 
 FROM MONTREAL TO LAKE CHAMPLAIN 
 AND THE RIVER RICHELIEU. • 
 
 h 
 
 A trip from Montreal to Lake Champlain is a pleasant 
 change, and to the fisherman it always affords pleasing re- 
 miniscences. Taking the Grand Trunk Railway, the first 
 place worthy of note which we stop at, after passing through 
 the Victoria Bridge, is St. Johns, twenty-six miles distant, 
 situated at the foot of the navigable waters of Lake Cham- 
 plain, on the River Richelieu. As far as wood and water can 
 contribute to it, nothing can exceed the beauty of its banks 
 here. A splendid bridge spans the river to St. Athanase, 
 over which, at a distance of six miles, a capital road, through 
 a finely cultivated country, leads to Scotch Motmtain, a. re- 
 gular cone, from whence can be obtained a magnificent viev/ 
 through the Townships and far into Vermont. For those 
 seeking either pleasure or health, St. Johns is one of the 
 nicest resorts. The fishing here is good ; pike, perch, bass, 
 chub, and dor(^ are abundant ; boats are plentiful and charges 
 
And the River Richelieti 
 
 75 
 
 different 
 ^ Such 
 a fitting 
 the few 
 leriences 
 jscribed. 
 i care of 
 , that no 
 }r has a 
 ipot. 
 
 LAIN 
 
 oleasant 
 sing re- 
 he first 
 
 hrough 
 distant, 
 
 Cham- 
 iter can 
 s banks 
 hanase, 
 hrough 
 n, a re- 
 nt viev/ 
 those 
 
 of the 
 1, bass, 
 :harges 
 
 moderate. In the spring and fall of the year there is good 
 duck shooting, and woodcock are abundant in their season. 
 Passing on we reach Stottsdlle, a small station, near which, 
 in the middle of the Richelieu River, is an island, containing 
 about two hundred acres, and occupied solely by military, 
 no civilian residents being allowed. This is Isle aux Noix, 
 the British frontier military post, strongly defended by a fort 
 called Fort Lennox, garrisoned by some of the R. C. Rifles 
 and Royal Artillery. This was a British naval station and 
 garrison in 1 8 1 2 ; and the hulks of ships and gunboats used 
 there at that time are still lying there, and can be seen by 
 the visitor. It was from this station that two American 
 armed vessels were gallantly captured on Lake Champlain 
 23rd June, 18 12. Four miles further on we come to Lacolle, 
 five miles distant from the boundary line, and lying about 
 two miles from Lake Champlain itself Here may be 
 obtained sturgeon, maskinong^ pickerel, pike, black and 
 rock bass, eels, shad, mullet, catfish of large size, chub, ling, 
 perch, etc. It is an excellent spot for still fishing, but trout 
 and salmon are not found here. The shooting is good, in- 
 cluding duck, woodcock, snipe, plover and partridge. Close 
 to the station is the battle-ground of Lacolle Mill, where 
 the American army, commanded by General Wilkinson, in 
 the spring of 18 14, numbering upwards of 3CXX), attacked 
 and completely invested Lacolle Mill, which was defended 
 by Major Handcock with about 180 men, who finally repulsed 
 and drove them back within their own territory. Here 
 also is the Odelltown Chapel, celebrated in our local 
 history as the spot where a small band of loyal volunteers 
 defeated four times their number of rebels in 1838, which 
 happened somewhat as follows: — About 4000 insurgents 
 were concentrated at Napierville, a small village, four or 
 five miles distant, whence they opened communication with 
 the sympathizers in the United States. A number of their 
 body, however, being captured en masse by this mere hand- 
 
 ! I 
 
Montreal to take ChamPlain 
 
 ful of loyalists, the latter threw themselves into this church, 
 where they awaited the approach of Dr. Nelson, the leader 
 of the revolt, from Plattsburg, with the Napierville party, 
 which they finally repulsed with heavy loss. About four 
 miles distant is the American stronghold. Fort Montgomerj', 
 which for some years belonged to Canada, but by the Ash- 
 burton Treaty was given up to the U. S. ; it completely 
 defends the pass of the lake. Lake Champlain is so called 
 after the celebrated French explorer of the same name, who 
 sailed through it into Lake St. George in 1608. It is one 
 of the most picturesque of inland waters, being 120 miles in 
 length. Almost the whole of it is in the U. S. territory, 
 with the exception of a bay, or rather arm of it, stretching 
 to the north-east, called Missisquoi Bay. The same de- 
 scription applies to it as has been given to the whole lake. 
 " It usurps the business of the canal ; floats its heavily laden 
 boats; mirrors numberless hills covered with pine, maple 
 and oak, as well as many farms, all richly cultivated; rolls 
 under a picturesque bridge (the R. R. Bridge of the Vermont 
 Central); enriches broad meadows; laves the threshold of 
 rural cabins, with children sporting beside them in wild 
 glee ; yields its treasures to the fisherman ; wears upon its 
 bosom the most charming islands ; perpetuates in its colour 
 the emerald of summer ; receives into its flood a hundred 
 laughing brooks, teeming with trout; and finally waters a 
 broad valley (the valley of the Richelieu) where the yeoman 
 tills his soil in peace, while from many a grove is heard the 
 pleasant singing of the birds." Westward from Rouse's 
 Point some ten or twelve miles, and at a distance of thirty- 
 six miles from Montreal, is Hemmingford, where there is 
 a remarkable huge rent or cleft in a flat rock called *'the 
 Gulf I' at the top of Covey Hill. This chasm is about one 
 hundred feet deep, and about one hundred rods wide ; at the 
 bottom of it flows a river, whose water has an inky black- 
 ness in appearance, as you look at it over the precipice. 
 
And the River Richelieu. 
 
 n 
 
 There is also a small lake on the hill, which" is well worth 
 visiting. From the top of Covey Hill there is a beautiful 
 panoramic view of the surrounding country, the spires of Mon- 
 treal being visible with a good glass on a clear day. There are 
 traces of mineral springs in the vicinity, containing sulphur 
 and iron, pointing to extinct volcanic agency. Returning east- 
 wards, and after lingering on the banks of the Missisquoi Bay, 
 the next object of interest in this section is BromeLake ; lying 
 some sixty miles from Montreal, in a lovely section of country. 
 Near the head of this lake is situated Knowlton, a place 
 which bids fair to become a permanent summer residence of 
 some of the Montreal bon ton; and certainly a more seques- 
 tered and yet accessible spot could scarcely be had. Access 
 is had from Montreal by rail to Waterloo, and thence five 
 miles by daily stage. The fishing in the place is magnifi- 
 cent ; and for shooting, the ample cover afforded by the 
 dense growth of reeds at its outlet, with here and there a 
 still deep pool hemmed in with willows and low shrubs, 
 barely admitting passageway for a dug-out canoe to enter, 
 till the lake suddenly expands, showing its surface covered 
 with duck and teal, — altogether make it a most delightful 
 retreat. 
 
 Returning again to St. Johns, and taking the course of the 
 Richelieu, — ^which rivei differs from almost all others, in 
 becoming narrower the further you descend it, till it dis- 
 charges itself into Lake St. Peter, after a course of about 
 seventy miles, — ^we come to Chambly Canton, lying between 
 the rapids of the Richelieu river, and the Chambly and St. 
 Johns Canal, distant from St. Johns about twelve miles. 
 This is an old military station, the fort here having been 
 erected by the French in 171 r. It is now manned by a few 
 of the Canadian Rifles and the Artillery, but is a great resort 
 for the troops in summer from the garrison of Montreal for 
 target and other practice. Chambly Village is one mile 
 distant, an old and pleasant village, on the west side of the 
 
78 
 
 Montreal to Lake Champlain 
 
 river, which at this place widens into what is almost a beau- 
 tiful lake. Although only eighteen miles distant from 
 Montreal by land, yet from the easterly course of the Riche- 
 lieu, before its junction with the St. Lawrence, the means of 
 water communication are nearly 90 miles! The expansion 
 of the river is called Chambly Basin, nearly of a circular 
 form, embellished by several little islands covered with ver- 
 dure and fine trees, as ornamentally disposed as if regulated 
 by art. From this basin to its mouth the river retains a 
 uniform width of about 250 yards, and its banks are from 
 eight to twelve feet high. In the vault of the Roman Catholic 
 Church here some of the heroes of the battle-field of Cha- 
 teauguay lie buried ; and Colonel DeSalaberry, called after 
 that memorable engagement the "Canadian Leonidas," 
 Seigneur of Chambly, sleeps his last sleep here. A few miles 
 further we come to the little village of St. Charles, memor- 
 able for being the spot where in '37 a cap of liberty and pole 
 were erected, and where the insurgents had assembled and 
 fortified their position so obstinately, that the works had to 
 be stormed, and every house in it but one was burned. 
 St. Denis, a little further, has obtained unenviable notoriety 
 from the murder of Lieut. Weir, who had been sent over- 
 land to Sorel from Montreal with despatches, and wishing 
 to join his regiment, which was on its route to St. Denis, in 
 eager haste, arrived there too soon, and thus fell a prisoner 
 into the rebels' hands, who barbarously and brutally murdered 
 him, and threw his body into the Richelieu. 
 
 The tourist now directs his steps to a mountain which he 
 has seen towering up ; this is Belceil Mountain, twenty- 
 one miles below Montreal, and about twelve from Chambly, 
 and three miles from the Beloeil station on the G. T. R. It 
 is known also as Rouville, and Mount St. Hilaire. The 
 village of Beloeil is situated on the north shore of the Riche- 
 lieu, which having been crossed, a very picturesque road 
 conducts the traveller to the southern base of the mountain. 
 
And the River Richeliett. 
 
 79 
 
 The road winds through a deep grove of maples, and the 
 ascent has been so far improved as to admit of ladies accom- 
 plishing it with ease. Soon the traveller reaches a lake of 
 singular formation, to which, though there is an outlet, 
 through which the water is constantly flowing, so as to turn 
 several mills, there is no perceptible inlet. It is supposed 
 to be the crater of an extinct volcano. The lake abounds 
 with fish, of which perch of a goodly size are the most 
 numerous ; but fishing is difficult there on account of the 
 scarcity of boats. The best method is to construct a float 
 of branches and brushwood, from which to fish on the mar- 
 gin of the lake. At a short distance onwards commences 
 the ascent of the peak, which is studded at intervals by 
 fourteen wooden crosses, each of which bears an inscription 
 having reference to our Saviour's journey to the place of his 
 crucifixion. Some years ago a dignitary of the Church of 
 Rome, the Bishop of Nancy, visited Canada, and caused a 
 small oratory to be erected on the very crest of the moun- 
 tain ; this was surmounted by a huge cross, covered with 
 bright tin and thus rendered visible from a great distance. 
 It was destroyed, however, a few years ago, but is again to 
 be erected. From the summit of the mountain, whose 
 height is from i,icx) to 1,400 feet above the river, when the 
 state of the atmosphere is favorable, the visitor can see about 
 sixty miles in each direction ; and the windings of the St. 
 Lawrence, the shining waters of the Richelieu and Lake 
 Champlain. ind the distant range of the Green Mountains, 
 present a panorama that amply repays the beholder for all 
 the fatigue he has undergone. A large hotel, capable of 
 accommodating 200 guests, was built here by the enterprising 
 Seigneur, Major Campbell, but, unfortunately, was totally 
 destroyed by fire. 
 
 Trains from Montreal stop at Beloeil Station, several times 
 a day, so that there is no difficulty in returning to the city if 
 desirable, or of leaving for some other direction. 
 
 I ; 
 
 Mi 
 
80 
 
 Montreal to Quebec. 
 
 >' I 
 
 ,<* in ) Hi 
 
 FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 
 
 '■< 
 
 There is very little really worthy of notice, and very few 
 objects that attract the attention on the trip from Montreal 
 to Quebec. As the steamers always leave, however, in the 
 evening, it is better for the tourist to choose a moonlight 
 night for what little there is to see. Leaving Montreal to 
 proceed down the river we pass Longueuil, a small village, on 
 the south bank, and the summer residence of many of the 
 citizens of Montreal, with which it is connected by means of 
 a ferry-boat. It is memorable in history for the repulsion of 
 General Carleton in 1775 ; and a little further on the north 
 shore is Longue Pointe, where is a fine building, the Convent 
 of the Soeurs de la Providence. At a distance of nine miles 
 from the city we see Pointe aux Trembles, founded in 1674 ; 
 here is one of the old French Churches, built in 1704 ; — soon 
 afterwards we find ourselves among the islands of Boucher- 
 ville. These islands are mostly low and flat, with very 
 shallow water among them, and a thick growth of reeds and 
 other water weeds, affording excellent duck shooting and 
 pike fishing, but wanting in scenery from their extreme 
 flatness ; here it is that the ice grounds or settles on the 
 break up of the winter, causing the inundation which almost 
 always annually takes place above ; — and at a distance of 1 5 
 miles we pass Varennes, one of the most prettily situated 
 places between Montreal and Quebec ; it lies with the St. 
 Lawrence in front and the Richelieu in its rear. A steamer 
 runs between it and Montreal four times a week, .md it is 
 rising into notice from the mineral springs situated about a 
 mile from the village. At a distance of forty miles we pass 
 Berthier, on the north shore, opposite to the entrance of the 
 Richelieu and to numerous islands similar to those of Bou- 
 cherville, till five miles further down, at the junction of the 
 Richelieu, we arrive at Sorel, which, though a small town, 
 
 /• 
 
Montreal to Quebec. 
 
 ai 
 
 town, 
 
 is the first stopping place for steamers to Quebec. This 
 place is also called William Henry, after William IV, who, 
 when in the navy and lying off Quebec, visited this place, 
 coming up in his vessel to Lake St. Peter, whence he took a 
 small boat upwards. It is built on the site of a fort, con- 
 structed in 1665 by De Tracey, and was for many years the 
 summer residence of successive Governors of Canada. This 
 is the wintering place of most of the river craft and steamers 
 that ply between Quebec and Montreal. There is splendid 
 snipe shooting in the neighbourhood in October, and very 
 good fishing all through the year among the numerous islands 
 which here stud the surface of the river. About five miles 
 further down the river expands into a vast sheet of water, 
 about twenty-five miles long and nine miles broad, which is 
 known as Lake St. Peter. It is for the most part quite 
 shallow, except in a narrow channel, which has been artifi- 
 cially deepened, so that the largest sailing vessels and the 
 Canadian and Liverpool steamers pass up and down without 
 difficulty. This channel, however, is very intricate, and re- 
 quires to be marked out with buoys, and fir-poles stuck in 
 the mud, with part of the green tuft left on their tops. It 
 affords very good pike fishing, and enormous quantities of 
 eels can be taken here ; there is also good duck shooting 
 along the margin of the lake in the bayous or inlets, which 
 are numerous on its shores. Lake St. Peter in stormy weather 
 is a dangerous place, both for rafts, which are apt to get 
 broken up here and their tii '>ers parted asunder by a storm, 
 and for large vessels, from its shallowness, in event of their 
 getting out of the channel. In passing through this lake the 
 traveller will be almost sure to see several rafts on their way 
 downwards, floating lazily along with the current, or, if there 
 be any breeze, with two or three huge pieces of canvass 
 spread out from an upright fir-pole in lieu of mast or sail. 
 On each of these rafts a shed is built, or "shanty," as it is 
 called, for the raftsmen's sleeping quarters, several weeks 
 
 F 
 
Montreal to Quebec. 
 
 not unfrcqiicntly passing before the raft reaches its destina- 
 tion. Some of the men rig out their huge unwieldy craft 
 with gay streamers, which flutter from the top of the poles, 
 presenting a rude gala appearance. When a number of 
 these rafts are lashed together, belonging perhaps to the 
 same owner, they make as it were a floating island half a 
 mile wide and a mile long, forming a very picturesque 
 appearance ; and when the voices of these hardy sons of the 
 forest and the river join in some of their Canadian boat 
 songs, really " keeping time" with their oars, the wild music, 
 borne by the breeze over the water to the traveller's ear, as 
 his steamer threads its way past them, has a charming 
 effect. Passing the mouth of the River St. Francis, which 
 flows in from the Eastern Townships, and near which is a 
 settlement of the Abenaquis Indians, we arrive at the City 
 of Three Rivers, situated on the north shore of the St. 
 Lawrence, at the mouth of the St. Maurice River, which 
 here separates into three channels (whence the name of the 
 city is derived) and lying about mid-way between Quebec 
 and Montreal, being about ninety miles from either of these 
 two places. It ranks the third city in the eastern section of 
 the Province, and carries on a very extensive trade in lumber ; 
 the Government improvements on the St. Maurice River of 
 late years having given great advantages to the lumbermen, 
 in obtaining an easy access to market. The River St. 
 Maurice and its tributaries water a territory of over 50,000 
 square miles, exceedingly rich in lumber. Large quanti- 
 ties of sawn lumber are manufactured here for the West 
 Indian trade. There are also foundries, or as they are 
 called " forges," in full operation here, which have turned out 
 excellent railway car wheels, and are celebrated for their 
 box-stoves. The iron used is principally bog-iron, and one 
 of the foundries, known as the " St. Maurice Forges," a few 
 miles back of the city, on the right bank of the river, has 
 been in operation for over one hundred years. They were 
 
Montreal to Quebec. 
 
 83 
 
 stina- 
 r craft 
 poles, 
 bcr of 
 to the 
 half a 
 resque 
 of the 
 1 boat 
 music, 
 ear, as 
 arming 
 , which 
 ich is a 
 le City 
 the St. 
 , which 
 ; of the 
 Quebec 
 these 
 ion of 
 umber ; 
 Liver of 
 )ermen, 
 ver St. 
 50,000 
 quanti- 
 West 
 ley are 
 ned out 
 their 
 nd one 
 a few 
 rer, has 
 ly were 
 
 )r 
 
 established by the French in 1737 ; at the conquest of the 
 Province the right of the French King devolved on his 
 Britannic Majesty, and these forges have been let to private 
 parties, who have worked them very successfully. Three 
 Rivers is the See of a Roman Catholic Bishopric, and the 
 Cathedral is a stately edifice and one of the finest in Canada, 
 well repaying a visit. Comparatively little is known of the 
 St. Maurice, or of the country through which it flows, but 
 in the section of country lying between it and the Saguenay 
 innumerable quantities of small lakes occur, varying from 
 two to a hundred square miles. A trip up the river will 
 amply repay the tourist, both for scenery and for sport, the 
 wTtcrs teeming with fish, and the woods with game of every 
 description. The banks of the river are generally high. 
 About thirty miles up, the River Shawenegan joins the St. 
 Maurice, and a little above its confluence, though on the St. 
 Maurice, the stupendous Falls of the Shaivenegan are met with, 
 one hundred and fifty feet perpendicular, and second only to 
 Niagara. The general mode of accomplishing a visit to them 
 is by engaging a canoe with voyageurs at Three Rivers. 
 They will ascend as far as the Portage des Grais, where the 
 tourist, having arrived by vehicle, will meet them, as a boat 
 at the spot without previous arrangement cannot always be 
 relied on. After entering the canoe, the Isle aux Tourtes is 
 passed, and on approaching within about a mile of the falls, 
 they can be distinctly seen through the tops of the highest 
 trees. Notwithstanding the numerous riipids below the 
 falls, there is much less difficulty in ascending than might 
 be expected; for while a current runs down the mid- 
 channel, at the rate of five or six miles an hour, there are 
 opportunities of taking advantage of an eddy on either side 
 running up, by shooting rapidly across the main stream. 
 When the water is high in April and May, there are three 
 distinct falls unconnected with each other, and meeting in a 
 large basin. The rocks that separate the fall are respectively 
 
 I i| 
 
84 
 
 Montreal io Quebec. 
 
 called "Zrt G^'niid-Mhe' and "Lc. honhomme." In the 
 chasm bdow, where the- waters of the different falls meet, 
 the scene is sublime and terrific, giving the appearance of 
 an enormous mass of snow violently agitated. There are 
 large fissures in the precipitous rock, into which the waters 
 are driven with great force, and which rebound again in 
 sheets of sjoray with a deafening sound. Immediately above 
 the falls the current is unbroken and q\iiet, though very 
 rapid, as may be observed on seeing a huge log suddenly dip 
 one end and vholly disappear on approaching Ihe edge of 
 the precipice. These falls have been rendered memorable 
 for the melancholy drowning of the son of the late Governor 
 Gfineral, which took place there a few years ago. Proceed- 
 ing up the river the traveller arrives at the Portage dcs Hitres, 
 or Beech Portage, where he has to leave the canoe and walk 
 round the rapids ; resuming it again, a few miles will bring 
 him to the Falls of the Grand-Mere, which, though 
 not equal to those below them, are well worthy of a visit. 
 The length of the St. Mnurice is estimated at about 400 
 miles, though nothing definite is known respecting its head 
 waters. From Grandes Piles to La Tuque there is a 
 steamboat plying, but above that, some seventy or eighty 
 miles from Three Rivers, so many rapids and car>r.ades occur 
 that, with the requisite portages, the navigation becomes 
 tedious and dangerous. The forests abound with deer and 
 caribou, and good sport can be relied on by ' aose desirous 
 of hunting ; but the disr'iji^ of St. Hubert must be prepared 
 to make his couch of liemlock boughs, and bid farewell tc 
 civilization for the time being. Several Indian hunters of 
 the tribe of the Algonquins can bo obtained at Three Rivers, 
 who for a gratuity will take the sportsxnan safely through 
 the otherwise inextricable mazes of the bush ; and a week 
 of this life late in the fall or early in the spring will amply 
 repay in game the hardships of a " tramp in the woods." 
 It is not improbable that the sportsman may, in the proper 
 
Montreal to Quebec. 
 
 85 
 
 season, and with proper Indian guides, meet with the largest 
 of the deer tribe — the Moose (Cervus Alces.) The chase 
 after this animal affording such excellent sport, and withal 
 leading through the wildest and most sequestered fastnesses 
 of the woods, we cannot omit a slight description of the sport. 
 It is generally hunted when the snow is deep, and sufficienLly 
 crusted with ice to bear the weight of adog, but not of a moose 
 itself. Five or six men provided with knapsacks, containing 
 food for as many days, and all necessary implements for " camp- 
 ing" out at night, set out in search of their game. Having found 
 their animal they will wait till day-break, when the dogs arc 
 laid on, and the hunters wearing large snow-shoes follow as 
 closely as possible. The deer does not run far before the 
 crust on the snow, through which he breaks at every step, 
 cuts his legs so severely that the poor animal stands at bay, 
 and endeavors to defend himself by striking with his fore- 
 feet, till the arrival of the hunters ends his career. " Frank 
 Forrester," the great authority on American sport, cites an 
 instance of a friend of his "killing seven of these glorious 
 animals on the River St. Maurice, in the rear of the pretty 
 village of Three Rivers, all of which he ran into upon snow 
 shoes, after a chase of three days." The following descrip- 
 tion of a hunting party's encampment is so spirit stirring 
 that we cannot pass it by: — "The first thing to be done on 
 a tramp is to encamp the first night, since it is rare that a 
 single day's march carries the sportsman to the scene of 
 action. The arms are stacked, or hung from the branches 
 of the giant pines around the camp; the snow is scraped 
 away from a large area, and heaped into banks to windward ; 
 a tree or two is felled and a huge fire kindled; beds arc 
 prepared of the soft and fragrant tips of cedar and hemlock 
 branches ; and the party gathers about the cheerful blaze, 
 while the coUops are hissing in the frying pan, the coffee 
 simmering in the camp kettle, and the fish or game — if the 
 Indians have found time to catch a salmon-trout or two 
 
86 
 
 Montreal to Quebec. 
 
 through the ice, or the sportsmen have brought down a 
 brace or two of Canada grouse — is roasting on wooden spits 
 before the fire, with tiie rich gravy dropping on the biscuits, 
 which are to serve thereafter as platters for the savory broil. 
 Then comes the merry meal, seasoned by the hunter's 
 Spartan sauce — fatigue and hunger ; and when the appetites 
 of all are satisfied with forest fare, the composing fumes of 
 the hunter's pipe succeed, replenished with the Indian weed 
 'that briefly burns,' and such yarns as are spun nowhere, 
 unless it be in a forest camp, are told. It is a sport for men, 
 not to be essayed by babes or sucklings. No particular 
 fitness is required, except stout thews and sinews — to be 
 long-winded — and accustomed to field exercise." 
 
 Opposite to Three Rivers is Doucets Landing, the ter- 
 minus of the Arthabaska and Three Rivers branch of the 
 Giand Trunk Railway, thus keeping this section of country 
 easy of access when the frost of winter has closed the river 
 to all navigation. 
 
 Three Rivers may be said to be at the head of tide- 
 water. In winter great quantities of "tom-cod," a small 
 and very palateable fish, are taken through holes cut in the 
 ice, near the city, in baskets let down and baited with offal ; 
 these being suddenly drawn up at intervals of a few min- 
 utes, .'. xclose some ten or a dozen of the fish, which are 
 particularly numerous here, probably from the junction of 
 the fresh and tide-water, affording fine feeding-ground. 
 Continuing our journey down the river, we pass BaLiscan, 
 Ste. Anne, and the Jacques Cartier River (fori lerly a good 
 salmon river, and beginning, under the auspices of the Fish 
 and Game Glub of Quebec, to again furnish sport), we find 
 the land rising on the river banks, presenting a more bold 
 and picturesque appearance as we near Quebec. St. Au- 
 gustin and St. Antoine, two pretty villages, are soon passed, 
 and the mouth of the Chaudi^re is the next object of inter- 
 est. Here, some twelve or fifteen iriles from Quebec, in 
 
Montreal to Quebec. 
 
 87 
 
 tide- 
 small 
 n the 
 joffal ; 
 min- 
 |h are 
 n of 
 lound. 
 scan, 
 good 
 Fish 
 find 
 bold 
 Au- 
 .sscd, 
 mter- 
 ;c, in 
 
 tne deep seclusion of a thick wood, are the Falls of the 
 Chaudi^re, a river which, flowing through the auriferous 
 district of the Eastern Townships, and abounding during its 
 course of one hundred miles in rapids, precipitates itself 
 iipwarfls of a hundred feet into a rocky and chaotic basin, 
 where, during the spring freshets, the roaring of the waters 
 and the fantastic cliffs and ledges on either side combine to 
 make a very deep imprrission on the mind. In consequence 
 of the cavities and chasms in the rocks, the foaming fury of 
 the fall is increased, and the spray evinced by this produces 
 all the colours of the rainbow in the sunshine. The deep 
 green foliage of the woods overhanging, the roar of the 
 cataract, and the solitude of the place, especially as you 
 emerge suddenly from the forest fastnesses, on the scene, 
 produce a strong and vivid impression, not soon to be 
 forgotten. •> ,u 
 
 Below this, and nearly opposite to Queoec, we pass Point 
 Levi, or Levis, on the Lauzon or southern shore, with its 
 river Bruyantc (so called from its roaring being heard in 
 Quebec before a south-easterly storm), or Etchernin, as is its 
 proper name. Levis has grown into importance within the 
 last few years, as being the depot of the Grand Trunk Rail- 
 way for Quebec. The difficulty of crossing the river in 
 winter from this point, has als:) greatly contributed to ren- 
 der this place worthy a passing notice. To luose who do 
 not know Quebec in winter, it is scarcely possible to convey 
 any idea of the interest that is felc in the formation of the 
 " ice bridge" from Point Levi to the city. When the ice 
 does not take between the two shores, there is often much 
 difficulty in crossing the river. The stream is then full of 
 masses of ice, varying in size from a few feet square to 
 many hundred feet, through which the traveller is taken in 
 a heavy canoe. Should the boatmen be fortunate enough 
 to strike a good crossing and get clear water the journey is 
 quickly made, and is not unpleasant. This, however, is not 
 
 : 
 
88 
 
 Montreal to Quebec. 
 
 always the case, and you may be tossed about for hours on 
 the ice, landing at last far from your destination. But, with 
 all these perils, it is seldom a canoe is lost, and a fatality on 
 the passage is hitherto unknown. This "canoeing" employs 
 numbers who would otherwise be idle, and is quite a science 
 of its own. When the ice bridge takes, a road across is 
 soon formed, which generally holds till April. The old 
 means of transit by canoe, however, is almost one of the 
 things of the past ; a strong iron-plated steamer, the Arctic, 
 having been built specially for use as a winter ferry when 
 the ice bridge is not formed. During the summer months 
 the ferry boats make continuous trips. The town originally 
 was named after Henri de L^vis, Due de Ventadour, a lineal 
 descendant of the house of Israel, if a family picture quoted 
 by rAbb6 Ferland in his " Coitrs d'Histoire du Canadd' is 
 evidence of such matters. The churches, both English and 
 Roman Catholic, nestling up among the hills, give a pleasing 
 and finished appearance to the scene. It has been noticed 
 in history as the point from which Quebec was assailed 
 several times, though unsuccessfully. 
 
 M. De Gasp6 in his " Les Anciens Canadiens" has ren- 
 dered this spot noteworthy, from a tradition respecting an 
 iron cage which was dug up here and exhibited in 1850, fall- 
 ing eventually into the hands of Barnum, in whose museum 
 the " Point Levi relic," as it was styled, remained on view 
 a long time, where next to the woolly horse, the Aztecs, and 
 other modern wonders, it attracted considerable attention. 
 It is supposed to have been the instrument in which Marie 
 Corriveau, the poisoner, called by LeMoine the Canadian 
 Lafarge, expiated her crimes in 1763 by being publicly 
 starved to death, fastened in this cage to a gibbet erected close 
 by the spot where the temperance monument now stands. 
 
 Another mile and the traveller finds himself in Quebec, 
 ready for another tour, which can be taken from Point Levi 
 through the Eastern Townships back to Montreal again. 
 
3urs on 
 Lit, with 
 ility on 
 n\ploys 
 science 
 :ross is 
 'he old 
 of the 
 Arctic y 
 y when 
 months 
 iginally 
 a lineal 
 quoted 
 ada" is 
 Ish and 
 leasing 
 loticed 
 Lssailed 
 
 as ren- 
 ting an 
 50, fall- 
 luseum 
 n view 
 cs, and 
 ention. 
 Marie 
 nadian 
 ublicly 
 d close 
 ,nds. 
 (uebec, 
 it Levi 
 in. 
 
 t 
 

 .^1 
 
 •I . =1 Ur 
 
Montreal to Quebec. 
 
 A peculiar feature of the scenery on the river, the whole 
 way down from Montreal to Quebec, and still further as far 
 as Riviere du Loup, are the numerous white cottages dotting 
 its banks at a few arpents distance from each other, while 
 behind them in the background the woods and hills stand 
 out in almost their primeval st?te. These are the dwellings 
 — the Kttle farms of the Canadian habitant ; the principal 
 roads of each parish run parallel with the river, and are com- 
 pletely lined with these rural dwellings. As a class the 
 habitants are devoted to agriculture ; entirely destitute of 
 enterprise they tread in the steps of their fathers. There is 
 perhaps no more cheerful, happy or contented being in 
 existence than the habitant ; his little farm supplies him with 
 enough to live upon, and he never gives himself anxiety about 
 to-morrow. The men like the old French peasantry wear the 
 old fashioned capot, and on their feet mocassins made of cow- 
 hide, — the women jackets of bright colors, and on their heads 
 either a cap or straw hat, made in the gipsy fashion. They 
 are fond of social intercourse, and spend a goodly portion of 
 their time in visiting each other. Those who live in the 
 vicinity of Quebec or Montreal, partly supply those markets 
 with vegetables ; and it is not an unusual thing for the 
 tourist in perhaps one of the remotest nooks he may be 
 penetrating in search of scenery, and thinking himself far 
 removed from man, to come suddenly upon one of this race, 
 trudging along staff in hand, and a bundle of baskets on his 
 back, which he will shortly fill with berries — raspberry, blue- 
 berry, or strawberry, to be taken perhaps many a mile to 
 market, and happy in his simplicity humming to himself the 
 burden of some old Norman song brought here by his fore- 
 fathers years ago. In the habitant's house the walls are al- 
 ways well whitewashed — the place scrupulously clean, with 
 flowers in the window. You may speak execrable French 
 — many English unfortunately do — and make mistakes that 
 would excite the risibilities of a saint, yet you never see a 
 
 I •■ 
 
 I, 
 
 
ffii 
 
 Wild Flowers of Loiucr Canada 
 
 smile on his face, nor on the faces of his children. For 
 generations their character has undergone no change, their 
 cheerfulness and primitive simplicity have been equally en- 
 during. Truly it is pleasant to study the sunshine of the 
 human heart, which beams out on these rugged spots of 
 Nature's handiwork. 
 
 THE WILD FLOWERS OF LOWER CANADA. 
 
 The quantity of wild flowers to be found in the environs 
 of Quebec, rich in perfume and wild beauty, arc a miniature 
 collection of the genera distributed through the Lower Pro- 
 vince generally. They have been so ably dwelt on in works 
 more especially devoted to the natural history of the Province, 
 that we could not do Nature justice by enumerating them 
 here; but we quote from that pleasant writer, Mr. Lemoine, 
 the following: "A stranger," says he, "landing in this country 
 is much surprised to find the flowers which he has carefully 
 cultivated in, his garden at home growing wild at his feet ; 
 such as Dog-tooth Violets, Trilliums, and Columbines ; — the 
 Trillium, for which I paid three shillings and sixpence when 
 in England, positively growing wild. I could scarcely believe 
 that I had a right to gather it ; having paid so much for one, 
 I felt that it was property, valuable property, running wild." 
 After the Purple 1 rillium has done flowering we have the 
 Painted Trillium in the woods : the Trillium grandijlorum is 
 abundant at Grosse Isle. The spotted leaves and the bright 
 yellow flowers of the Dog-tooth Violet, fully recurved in the 
 sunshine, contrast beautifully with the fresh green grass of 
 the banks on which they are usually found. The Smilacina 
 bifolia, sometimes erroneously called the White Lily of the 
 
]Vi/i/ Floiucrs of Loivcr Canada. 
 
 91 
 
 Valley, the Smilacina trifolia,thQ Dcntaria,^vid the Strcptopus 
 rosciis or Twisted Stem, a rose-colored flower, bearing red 
 berries in the fall, arc abundant. There are also the May- 
 flower, the Hepatica, and Symplocarpus, — thickets crowned 
 with Rhodoras in full bloom — a bush a few feet high with 
 superb rose-colored flowers ; — the Kalmia angustifolia or 
 American Laurel, and the Cypripediim humilc, the beautiful 
 Ladies'-slipper Orchis, the Bunch or Pigeon-berry, the Brook- 
 lime Speedwell, the Blue-eyed Grass, the Herb Bennet, the 
 Labrador Tea, the Oxalis stricta and Oxalis acctosclla (Wood- 
 sorrel) one with yellow, the other with white and purple 
 flowers ; — the Ragwoot, the Anemone, so famous in English 
 song, principally represented by the A. Pennsylvania, bear- 
 ing large white flowers ; — the Corydalis, the Smilacina 
 racemosa, resembling Solomon's Seal. Here we light upon 
 a lovely tulip bed ; no, 'tis that strangely beautiful flower the 
 Pitcher Plant, Sarracenia purpurea, so effective in the cure 
 of small-pox ; — the Forget-me-not, (Enothera or Evening 
 Primrose, the False Hellebore, the one-sided Pyrola, the 
 Bladder Campion, the Sweet-scented Yellow Mellilot, the 
 White Yarran, the Prunella with blue flowers, the St. John's- 
 wort with its yellow clusters, the object of fair maidens' 
 pursuit on midsummer eve ; — the Willow Herb, the Yellow 
 Lily, the Partridge-berry, the Indian Pipe, the Ladies' Tresses, 
 the Purple Eupatorium, the Snake's Head ; — and hundreds 
 of other most beautiful flowers, each of which could hold a 
 place in an English conservatory or flower garden, are 
 scattered over the sequestered heights and swampy marshes 
 of the woods of Lower Canada. • ■• ' 1 
 
 
 igt 
 
 u:;.-^'f 
 
 ' I 
 
 ' ■■ ■,'(.";.■% 
 
 ■ t --, t c • • 
 
9? 
 
 "y... 
 
 Up the Ottawa, 
 
 UP THE OTTAWA. 
 
 I ! 
 
 Leaving Lachine in the steamer " Prince of Wales," on 
 the arrival of the early morning train from Montreal, we 
 pass, about two miles up the bay, the Isle Dorval, formerly 
 the residence of Sir George Simpson, the Governor of the 
 Hudson Bay Company, and latterly of General Williams ; 
 we then steam along the north shore of an expansion of the 
 St. Lawrence, called Lake St. Louis, into which, through a 
 narrow passage, part of the waters of the Ottawa flow ; and 
 it is curious that the waters of the two rivers for some dis- 
 tance run side by side, as if refusing to mingle, and the line 
 of demarcation can Se clearly traced ; the St. Lawrence being 
 of a greenish hue, while the Ottawa furnishes a slightly olive 
 brown tint. The junction of the two mighty rivers seems to 
 have caused the formation of the Island of Montreal, and the 
 others adjacent to it. Two distinct branches of the Ottawa 
 winding between Isle Jesus, Isle Bizarre, and the main con- 
 tinent, rejoin the St. Lawrence at Repentigny, whilst another 
 and the greatest, rushing among a cluster of islets and rocks, 
 lying in the channel between Isle Perrot and St. Annes, 
 mingle with the waters of Lake St. Louis. 
 
 The Ottawa or " Uttawas," has never been explored up to 
 its head waters. It is known to flow from Lake Temisca- 
 ming, and to have a course thence of at least five hundred 
 miles, but how much further north it takes its rise is un- 
 known. Formerly from forty to fifty canoes proceeded 
 yearly from Lachine with articles of traffic, and ascended the 
 Ottawa for about 300 miles, whence they were carried by 
 portages, and then passed through French River to Lake 
 Huron. Here they were met by messengers called " Coureurs 
 des Bois," who brought the furs from the Indian hunting- 
 
up t/w Ottawa. 
 
 /'on 
 
 1, we 
 lerly 
 f the 
 ims ; 
 fthc 
 igh a 
 ; and 
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 I line 
 
 ting- 
 
 grounds, and exchanged the peltries, as they were called, for 
 European goods. The Ottawa was the grand route of tiiese 
 fur-traders, and was little known, except to those employed 
 ill that business. 
 
 At the end of the lake, or rather at the entrance of the 
 Ottawa, lies the picturesque village of Ste. Anne, distant 
 twenty-one miles from Montreal, clustering round an old 
 church, which owes its existence and support to the contri- 
 butions of the Canadian voyageurs, who never omit to pay 
 their offerings to the shrine of St. Anne, before engaging in 
 any enterprise. Here it was that Tom Moore composed the 
 popular Canadian Boat Song, and many who have never seen 
 and never will see " Uttawas tide" have sung about it till it 
 has become almost a household word. A massive bridge 
 crosses the river here, supported on sixteen stone piers, and 
 built for the central section of the Grand Trunk Railway, 
 which has a station here. There are also a set of locks here 
 for vessels to avoid the rapids, which are formidable, more 
 from their shallowness than their velocity. A number of 
 small islands are scattered about, and there is excellent 
 shooting and fishing in the vicinity ; here also is the favorite 
 resort of yachis from the Lachine or Beauharnois Clubs, the 
 expanse of Lake St. Louis affording ample room for their 
 movements, and the head of it, Ste. Anne, an excellent 
 rendez-vous for the crews. 
 
 Proceeding onwards, about two miles, at the western ex- 
 tremity of the island of Montreal, we see the ruins of two 
 old towers or forts, constructed to keep off the attacks of 
 hostile Indians, and near them the remains of a larger fort 
 taken from the French, and bearing the marks of war in its 
 walls. The expansion of the river here, probably caused by 
 the narrowness of its outlets, bears the name of Lake of 
 THE Two Mountains, and the hilly character of the scenery^ 
 clothed to the water's edge with the richest verdure, presents 
 more the appearance of an inland lake, than the banks of a 
 
 r 
 
94 
 
 Up the Ottawa. 
 
 river. The higher of the two hills, from which it obtains its 
 name, is called Calvary, and is held sacred by the Canadians 
 and the remnant of the Indian tribes living at its base, con- 
 sisting of Iroquois, Algonquins, and Nepissings. Near this 
 lake, on the north-east, are St. Eustache, St. Benoit, and 
 Ste. Scholastique, all of them, but especially the former, 
 celebrated in the history of the rebellion of '37, as being one 
 of the points at which the rebels made their headquarters. 
 Sir John Colborne attacked it, and was completely successful, 
 though with great destruction of life and property. The 
 handsome church was burnt, the presbyt^re and about sixty 
 of the principal houses. One of the leaders was killed near 
 the church, and numbers fell, burnt, suffocated, or shot. At 
 St. Benoit, the people profiting by the destruction of St. 
 Eustache, advanced with a flag of truce, and 250 of the in- 
 surgents unconditionally surrendered, and were paroled. 
 This may be said to have terminated the insurrection, as lar 
 as Lower Canada was concerned. The banks of the Ottawa 
 River, generally speaking, are low, with hills rising in the 
 distance some three or four miles inland ; and from Lake St. 
 Louis up to Carillon the banks are higher than elsewhere, if 
 we except Grenville, to which place from Carillon runs a 
 canal formed to overcome the impetuous rapids called the 
 Carillon, "the Chute ^ Blondeau," and "Long Sault." Op- 
 posite to Carillon, twenty-seven miles from Ste. Anne, at 
 Point Fortune, is the diverging point of the boundary line 
 between Upper and Lower Canada, the Ottawa from here 
 upwards being the natural division between the Provinces. 
 Two miles from here lies the pretty village of St. Andrews 
 on the North River, and LaChute, seven miles further 
 east. These villages seem to have taken theirnames 
 from Fort Carillon and its 
 
 ;It;. l.\ • 
 
 surroundings near Lake Cham- 
 
 plain. > ' "/• 
 
 At Carillon the traveller leaves the "Prince of Wales" and 
 is conveyed by railway through a prettily wooded tract of 
 
; 
 
 up the Ottaiva. 
 
 95 
 
 ,if 
 a 
 
 he 
 
 country, twelve miles to Grenville, where the land becomes 
 very hilly, rising abruptly from the water's edge. Opposite 
 to this village, at the head of the Long Sault rapids, is 
 Hawkesbury, where we meet with the first of the large 
 lumber establishments, which have been the means of 
 developing the whole upper portion of the Ottawa, whose 
 waters would probably otherwise have rolled for years to 
 come through a dense wilderness. These mills, which are 
 three in number, are principally supplied from the River? 
 Gatineau and Rouge, and manufacture on an average 
 27,000,000 feet, board measure, per annum. To give an 
 idea of the vastness of these lumbering establishments to 
 those unacquainted with that line of manufacture, we 
 append a description of these mills; for the description 
 of one answers for all others in its general outline. They 
 belong to the Hon. John Hamilton & Brother, who have 
 paid the greatest care to secure the comforts of the people 
 under their control, and the whole village bears signs of 
 opulence and order. The dock is capable of containing 
 40,000 saw logs ; the mills contain ninety-two vertical saws, 
 nineteen circular saws, fourteen butting saws, driven by 
 sixty-three water-wheels ; fifteen hundred saw-logs are man- 
 ufactured in twenty-four hours, and one hundred and sixty- 
 five men and boys are employed in and about the mills. 
 These are divided into day and night workers, alternately 
 working for twelve hours each, so that during the summer 
 months the mills never cease running. Of agricultural pro- 
 duce there is expended 750 tons of hay, 25,000 bushels of oats, 
 5,000 bushels of turnips, 6,000 bushels of potatoes, 1,000 bar- 
 rels of pork, 9,000 barrels of flour, and 2,000 barrels of oatmeal 
 in the woods. So that 2,000 tons of agricultural produce is 
 consumed by this firm alone. This shows what an import- 
 ant branch in the industrial economy of the Province the 
 lumber business is, and what vast resources are yet to be 
 developed and applied. The lumberers are a race of men 
 
 I ! 
 
96 
 
 Up the Ottawa. 
 
 peculiar to Canada, Maine, and New Brunswick, In the 
 depth of winter their work in the backwoods begins. It is 
 then they set forth to fell the huge white and red pines, which 
 are drawn out of the snow by oxen and piled on or by the 
 side of the frozen rivers, till the return of spring gives them 
 an opportunity of floating them down in rafts and masses 
 which fill all the surface of the streams in May for miles and 
 miles. By hauling the pine logs over cliffs and dragging 
 them down ravines the lumberers before the thaw sets in 
 manage to collect along the banks of the various tributaries 
 of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence some millions of cubic feet 
 of timber, and when the ice-bound streams are free once 
 more, their more arduous and dangerous labour recommences. 
 Loosely joined together in huge, rough, uncouth rafts, the 
 logs are set adrift, and with a few poles and misshapen oars 
 to guide them, the lumberer goes in charge down currents 
 and rapids of deep rivers, swollen and flowing fiercely with 
 the waters from the melting snow. As long as the logs hold 
 together all is well, but hurried and tumbled over rapids 
 they often break up, and woe betide the unhappy lumberers 
 who are on them when the great logs come rolling in fierce 
 confusion one over the other, and go smashing down the 
 rapids from rock to rock till they are all cast adrift in some 
 open reach. When such accidents occur, as they do fre- 
 quently, it sometimes happens that the logs get so wedged 
 and bound together on the brow of some strong rapid that 
 * they remain immovable, and all the miles of logs which are 
 following them are stopped at once. It then becomes neces- 
 sary to cut the obstructing logs or " timber jam," as it is 
 called, with axes. Only the bravest, coolest, and most ex- 
 perienced of the lumberers can attempt this most dangerous 
 of all their tasks, for when once the logs which bar the passage 
 are half cut through the might of the press behind breaks 
 them like straws, and some 10,000 trunks of trees come 
 plunging down with a rush and confusion that but too often 
 
I 
 
 Up the Ottawa. 
 
 97 
 
 that 
 are 
 leces- 
 it is 
 t ex- 
 jrous 
 ssage 
 
 renders all the coolness and activity of those who are trying 
 to escape the avalanche of no avail. 
 
 Taking the steamer "Queen Victoria" at Grenville, which 
 is always waiting, on the arrival of the train, the route lies 
 through a densely wooded country, in many places in as 
 primitive a state as when the Jesuit missionaries first sailed 
 up this river ; the current is gentle, and the scenery is 
 diversified by numerous islands, the foliage of whose trees 
 seems almost to touch the water, and by the glimpses which 
 are obtained of the infant settlements upon the skirts of the 
 forest and the margin of the stream. Six miles from Gren- 
 ville the steamer touches at the small town of L'Orignal, 
 on the Upper Canada side. This is the stopping place for 
 those who wish to visit Caledonia Springs, nine miles 
 distant. The medicinal quahties of these springs (the " Plan- 
 tagenet Water" of commerce) have of late years attracted 
 considerable attention, especially among those vvho are 
 troubled with rheumatic or cutaneous affections. It is said 
 the medicinal properties of these springs were first discovered 
 by pigeons flocking in large quantities to them ; and the well 
 known penchant of that bird for any salt substance led to an 
 investigation, which resulted in the waters being brought 
 into notice. The "season" here, which may be styled the 
 Canadian Harrowgate, is during the heats of August ; and to 
 the invalid seeking a quiet locality, with agreeable society, 
 this place will afford both. Nothing further of note occurs 
 till we pass Thurso, a flourishing village, doing a large busi 
 ness in lumber, and Buckingham, near the junction of the 
 River da Li^vre. The latter is a village of about 2,000 
 inhabitants, five miles from the Ottawa River, mostly con- 
 nected with the lumber trade, a very large quantity being 
 floated down the river which runs through the village, the 
 mills there employing a large number of hands, and turning 
 Gilt about 40,000,000 feet per annum. Buckingham, within 
 twenty miles of Ottawa, is a very picturesque village, there 
 
 iii 
 
 :<1 
 
98 
 
 Up the Ottawa. 
 
 being in it two waterfalls, called the Upper and Lower Fall, 
 the former about forty feet in height, though, from its incline, 
 being so broken, it assumes more the form of a rapid ; 
 the latter has a height of about seventy feet, and falls into a 
 basin so hemmed in that it creates a perfect whirlpool before 
 its waters can find an outlet to the channel about ten feet 
 below. The timber as soon as it leaves the mills is conveyed 
 through slides (the river being unnavigable from rapids) 
 four miles to "the basin," where it is made up into rafts and 
 floated to its market. The River du Li^vre is a very beau- 
 tiful river and well worthy of a visit. Good accommodation 
 can be had at McKnight's private hotel, whence the tourist 
 can start by vehicle for the High Falls, some twenty-five 
 miles up the river, or else take a canoe (which is by far the 
 most preferable method of travelling, in consequence of the 
 bad roads) and so combine journeying through pleasant 
 river scenery, and trolling at the same time, as the river 
 abounds with pike and an occasional large trout, which readily 
 take a spoon. These High Falls are a magnificent clear fall 
 or chute of water over a precipice of about 150 feet in height, 
 and in the spring, when the water of the river is high from 
 the melting of the snow, present a magnificent appearance. 
 From their distance from the settlements and difficulty of 
 access, these falls are comparatively unknown ; but as the 
 Government employes at Ottawa will probably be on the 
 look-out for summer resorts, this locality cannot long remain 
 unvisited. The fallr in their appearance very much resemble 
 Montmorenci, though having more of the Horse-shoe form. 
 Still further on is White Fish Lake, a great resort for fisher- 
 men, but most unceremoniously given up to the torch and 
 the spear in the fall; it being no unusual thing for residents 
 of Buckingham to spear there in two or three days one 
 or even two barrels of large fish. The scenery on this lake 
 is very beautiful, and a remarkable cave exists there called 
 "the Church;" the roof of it is dome-shaped, and at the 
 
Up the Ottawa. 
 
 99 
 
 her- 
 
 and 
 
 ents 
 
 one 
 
 ake 
 illed 
 
 the 
 
 extremity of the cave is a curious raised mass of stone, called 
 the "altar," from its strange resemblance to such ; the floor is 
 strewed with beautiful fine white sand ; and as the entrance 
 to it is very small, it is used frequently by hunters as a 
 camping place. Probably if it could speak it could reveal 
 tales of Indian warfare and stratagem. In the lake is an 
 island very rich in metallic ore ; in fact the whole range of 
 mountains which traverse these backwoods teems with mine- 
 ral wealth. About five miles north-east from Buckingham, 
 and between it and Thurso, lie some newly worked plum- 
 bago or black-lead mines, which are very prolific ; and 
 antimony is said to have been discovered at Lake Donaldson, 
 a few miles distant. 
 
 One mile below Ottawa City the River Gatineaii, which 
 has a course of 350 miles, and is the largest and most 
 important tributary of the Ottawa River, joins it. Seven 
 miles up occur the " Farmer's Rapids and Falls," and for 
 the next three and a half miles, four or five rapids and 
 cascades occur, presenting to view a most picturesque por- 
 tion of this extraordinary river. On this river, forty miles 
 up, is Lake St. Mary's, — Pemachunga — and "Thirty-one- 
 mile-long Lake" — all splendid fishing places, but deep in the 
 solitude of the forest, no settlements being near them. 
 
 About 6 p.m. the " Queen Victoria" arrives at her wharf 
 at Ottawa, and as this city has received the notoriety of 
 being the Capital of Canada, as well as from the beautiful 
 scenery in its vicinity, the traveller will probably remain 
 here some little time, and we will endeavour to give a short 
 description of the city and its surroundings. Ottawa, or 
 as it was originally called, Bytown, 126 miles from Montreal, 
 was laid out under the command of Col. By, of the Royal En- 
 gineers, who constructed the Rideau Canal, and forms three 
 districts, viz. : Loiuer Town on the cast ; Central Toivn on 
 the west, and Upper Town on the north-west. All of them, 
 however, arc on the south-west side of the Ottawa River, 
 
 Si 
 
 it: l| 
 
 ! 
 
100 
 
 Up the Ottawa.. 
 
 and so in Canada West. The streets are all wide and 
 regularly laid out, and it reflects great credit on the engineer- 
 ing skill employed. Most of the buildings in the town are 
 exceedingly plain, but substantially built, and being of grey 
 limestone, much resemble in appearance some of the streets 
 of Montreal. From Barrack Hill, the highest elevation of 
 the town, the view is one of surpassing grandeur and extent, 
 combining in it a trinity of river, landscape, and water-fall 
 scenery, which few places can boast of In the North-West, 
 towards Chelsea, is a range of hills, one of which is conspi- 
 cuous as towering above the others, and remarkable for its 
 naked summit, locally called "Bald Mountain," looming up 
 in the distance, all of which add to the beauty of the scene. 
 Here many of the names seem associated with Quebec, for 
 instance, the Chaudi^re Falls, and the divisions into Upper 
 and Lower Town — probably from the intimate connection 
 between the two cities, induced by the lumber trade, these 
 affinities of names have sprung. Barrack Hill is in many 
 respects a counterpart of the citadel of Quebec ; in the rear 
 is Central Town, whilst Upper and Lower Town are com- 
 pletely commanded by it on each side ; in front is a precipi- 
 tous embankment, running down almost perpendicularly to 
 the river, thus completely sweeping it and the opposite shore 
 north, south, and east. From this Ottawa may be said to 
 occupy one of the finest natural positions, and in that respect 
 is the key to an immense territory of back country, valuable 
 in wood and minerals. This hill, the site of the Government 
 buildings, rises almost perpendicularly from the river about 
 250 feet, and the group of the buildings forms a most pictur- 
 esque object from every approach to the city. The structure, 
 consisting of the Parliament and Departmental Buildings^ 
 forms three sides of a large square, facing the city, and from 
 its position it overlooks most of the houses. The whole is 
 in the Italian Gothic style, and built of a stone found in the 
 vicinity, two colors being used, a warm tint set oif with 
 
 
 M 
 
Ill 
 
>5 
 
 3< 
 
>; 
 
 '^i 
 
 r^ 
 
ing. 
 
Up the Ottawa. 
 
 lOI 
 
 lighter dressings, which gives a rich and ornate appearance, 
 and the stones being undressed reflect the light and give a 
 sparkling effect in the sun. The Parliament Building is 
 about 475 feet in length, the body of it 40 feet high, with 
 slanting roofs. The Legislative Halls, one on each side of 
 the interior court, are as large as those of the British Parlia- 
 ment, being 90 feet long and 45 feet in bieadth. The library 
 is capable of holding 300,000 volumes. The principal tower 
 is not yet at its full height of 1 80 feet. The grounds in front 
 will be laid out in terraces, with lawns, fountains, &c. ; and 
 when completed the beauty of the situation and elegance of 
 the buildings, will enable the capital to compare with any in 
 the world. 
 
 Besides the Parliament Buildings, several of the Depart- 
 mental Offices, such as the Queen's Printing House, and 
 numerous churches, among which the Roman Catholic 
 Church may be mentioned as one of the handsomest in 
 Canada, add greatly to the stable appearance of the city. 
 
 Ottawa is connected with Lake Ontario by means of the 
 Rideau Canal, the entrance of which is at Kingston, ninety- 
 five miles distant. It was originally constructed by the 
 Imperial Government for military purposes, and has in it 
 forty-seven locks, but it is now the outlet for a great amount 
 of the local traffic. This means of communication is more 
 correctly a succession of raised waters by means of dams, 
 with natural lakes intervening, than a canal, properly speak- 
 ing. Lake Rideau is the summit pond, and the waters which 
 burst out at the White Fish Falls flow into the Gananoque 
 River, which is the waste-weir for regulating the water in 
 Lake Rideau, Thus the water in the whole canal, whether 
 in times of flood or drought, is kept at a steady height. In 
 Ottawa eight magnificent stone locks empty the canal into 
 the river, and a massive cut stone bridge crosses it. At the 
 western extremity of the city are the Chaudi^re Falls, a 
 scene of imposing grandeur and beauty, and in the opinion 
 
102 
 
 Up the Ottawa. 
 
 of many second only to the Falls of Niagara. They arc 
 forty feet in height and over two hundred in width, they are 
 situated near the centre of the river, and the waters that 
 flow over them arc strongly compressed by rocks that stretch 
 out and impede them. In the great Chaudi6re (or Caldron) 
 the sounding line has not found bottom at 300 feet. It is 
 supposed that similarly as at Niagara, there are subterranean 
 currents, which convey the immense mass of waters beneath 
 the river. In fact half a mile lower down it comes boiling 
 up again from the Kettles, which never freezes in the coldest 
 weather. Immediately below the falls the river is spanned 
 by an elegant and durable suspension bridge, which con- 
 nects Upper and Lower Canada, and from which a splendid 
 view of the foaming chasm is obtained. At the north-east 
 end of the city, arc two other falls, over which the waters 
 of the Rideau River pour themselves with wild impetuosity 
 into the bosom of the Ottawa; and although inferior to 
 the Chaudi^re in point of sublimity and grandeur, they are 
 not without many attractions to the admirer of Nature's 
 works. Altogether the scenery rounc the city is of unsur- 
 passed beauty — wild, romantic, and picturesque, presenting 
 a variety rarely to be met with in any other part of the 
 Province. The commerce of Ottawa is constituted almost 
 wholly of lumber, both square and sawn, which passes 
 thro'igh the city from the forests in the rear. At this point 
 are the great timber slides, invented by the late Ruggles 
 Wright, Esq., of which we append the following description : 
 When a quantity of lumber is brought down to the falls, 
 a special contrivance called a "slide" or "shoot" is necessary 
 to get it past them, as the result of getting it over the falls 
 themselves would be simply to destroy the logs. For this 
 purpose then, a certain portion of the river is dammed off, 
 and turned into a broad wide channel of timber, and down 
 which artificial but most rapid of all rapids in America the 
 waters of the Ottawa rush at terrific speed. The head of 
 
 m 
 
 yoi 
 
up the Ottazva. 
 
 101 
 
 this slide is placed some 300 yards above the falls, and ter- 
 minates after a run of about three-quarters of a mile, in the 
 still waters of the river below. As, however, a raft on such 
 a steep incline, and hurried alonj? by such a mass of water, 
 would attain a speed which would destroy itself and all upon 
 it, the fall of the shoot is broken at intervals by straight 
 runs, along which it glides at comparatively reduced speed, 
 till it again drops over, and commences another headlong 
 rush. Some of these runs terminate with a perpendicular 
 drop of some four or five feet, over which the raft goes head- 
 long and wallows in the boiling water beneath, till the current 
 again gets the mastery, and forces it on faster and more 
 furiously than before. More than 20,000,000 cubic feet of 
 timber come down the shoots of the Ottawa in this manner 
 each year. The rafts arc generally made of from fifteen to 
 twenty trees, with two transverse ones to secure them at 
 each end, ind a kind of raised bridge for the lumberers to 
 stand upon, who without such aid would be washed off it, 
 as the mass drops from shoot to shoot down these rapids 
 and disappears some few feet under water each plunge. 
 
 To go down the rapids of the St. Lawrence is compara- 
 tively nothing ; but to go down the rapids of a timber shoot* 
 to keep pace with the flying waters, and to see them hissing 
 and rushing up over the raft beneath your feet, is the most 
 exhilarating adventure in all the repertoire of American 
 travels. It is something which partakes of flying and swim- 
 ming ; the immense speed of the whole mass, — the rush of 
 the water, — the succession of shoots stretching out before 
 you like sloping steps of stairs, — the delight of flying over 
 these with the easy skim of a bird, — the rough long straights 
 in which the raft seems to dive and founder, letting the 
 water up beneath, and over it behind, till it is again urged 
 forward; and then comes another incline of water, which 
 you whirl madly down as if you were in a swing. To steady 
 yourself on the narrow plank amidships, and hold on with 
 
104 
 
 Up the Ottaiva. 
 
 might and main as the timber snaps and groans and works 
 like a bundle of reeds, getting a momentary rest with each 
 incline, and again thumping over the straights, with sharp 
 uneasy struggles, is to experience such sensations as neither 
 balloon nor diving bells afford, such a whirl as only three- 
 quarters of a mile down the great timber shoots of the 
 Ottawa can ever give. We would recommend all travellers ' 
 desirous of novelty, by all means to make one of these trips, 
 which can easily be done by making application to any of 
 the large lumbering establishments, and judiciously dispos- 
 ing a trifling "backsheesh" among the voyageurs them- 
 selves. 
 
 It will be easily seen that with such a manageable motor, with 
 navigation at its foot, both from Lake Ontario and the River 
 St. Lawrence, Ottawa is, as it ought to be, the emporium of 
 the truly Canadian staple — lumber — and the supply furnished 
 here, is the main dependence of the spring and fall fleets of 
 shipping which arrive in this country, for return cargoes to 
 Europe, as also to a large extent for the market of the United 
 States, in which the demand is constantly increasing. The 
 Hull Iron Mines, distant from the city about seven miles, on 
 the Lower Canada side, promise to be a source of consider- 
 able wealth; and in the event of the Ottawa Ship Canal 
 being carried into effect, Ottawa will stand on the great 
 water highway to the West. By it a navigable communica- 
 tion, far removed from the frontier, will be opened between 
 Montreal and Lake Huron. Even as a military work, this 
 would be important, as by means of it gunboats could be 
 taken to the Upper Lakes in the event of war. The distance 
 between Liverpool and Chicago would be shortened 760 
 miles more than by the Erie Canal and New York as its 
 outlet ; and the Western and North- Western States would 
 be brought into a greater union of common interests. There 
 is very good partridge-shooting all around in the neighbour- 
 hood, and ten or twelve miles back bears and deer are numerous. 
 
 
up the Ottawa. 
 
 105 
 
 . 
 
 The hotels are well kept, and moderate in their charges, and 
 for healthiness in the summer few cities can boast its equal. 
 Its only drawback is the want of water works, which, however, 
 will doubtless soon be supplied. 
 
 The following account of the founding of Ottawa or Bytown 
 is related as a fact : — About the close of the last century, a 
 IyI'- Wright, of Boston, having obtained a grant of a large 
 tract of land upon both sides of the river, below the Chaudi^re 
 Falls, and deciding that the south-side was unfit for settle- 
 ment, fixed upon what is now called Hull, as the site of a 
 village, which, from the pine lumber floated by him down to 
 Quebec and Montreal, soon became the nucleus of a lum- 
 bering population. As cash was scarce, wages were then 
 paid in either goods, rum, or land. In course of time, having 
 to settle with his teamster, named Sparks, for some ;^200 
 due to him, he prevailed on him, after much grumbling, to 
 take the hills on the southern side (now Ottawa) in payment, 
 throwing in, in the bargain, a yoke of oxen. Years after- 
 wards, the Canadian authorities wishing to find a channel in 
 the interior for the conveyance of the munitions of war to the 
 Upper Lakes, as the St. Lawrence was too much exposed to 
 the assaults of the Americans, inaugurated the scheme of the 
 Rideau Canal. Mr Sparks, one day in 1823, was much sur- 
 prised at seeing a crowd of engineer officers and soldiers 
 advancing to these sandy bluffs, and taking possession of 
 them as the Ordnance property of the British Crown, under 
 an officer named By ; the work progressed, and as the neces- 
 sary shops and shanties were erected on either side the hills, 
 they were called by way of joke upper and lower town ; 
 finally, a bridge was thrown across the Fall connecting Hull 
 or Wrightstown with Bytown, and as the latter slowly grew, 
 the other remained stationary. Money flowed in on Mr. 
 Sparks ; he sold lots, and was eventually reputed worth half 
 a million of dollars, and the long despised hills eventually 
 were decided upon by the Queen to sustain the Parliament 
 
 ' 
 
 I 1 
 
io6 
 
 Up the Ottawa. 
 
 Buildings of United Canada. Sparks Street, named after the 
 founder, is now one of the principal streets of Ottawa. 
 
 One mile and a half above Ottawa we come to the " Little 
 Chaudi^re Falls," a pretty fall of thirteen feet, and two miles 
 above that the rapid known under the name of "The Re- 
 moux," between which and the Little Chaudi^re the river 
 expands into wide lake-like basins. Four and a half miles 
 above this are the De Cheine rapids, opposite the Village of 
 Britannia, formed by a ridge of limestone crossing the course 
 of the river, and having a fall of about nine feet. Above 
 this, nine miles from Ottawa, on the Lower Canada side, is 
 Aylmer, situated on a splendid open reach of the river, 
 twenty-six miles in length, called Lac de Cheine, and naviga- 
 ble for vessels of the largest class. Proceeding onwards wc 
 come to the celebrated Chats Portage or Chats Falls, 
 which are a series of cascades, of about twenty feet high, 
 extending for about three miles, broken by islands, along 
 the edge of which the steamer runs, covered with hemlock, 
 cedar, pine, many of them unvisited by man, with about a 
 dozen deep channels, presenting a most remarkable appear- 
 ance, not unlike the Lake of the Thousand Islands in minia- 
 ture. At one point no less than thirteen falls are visible at 
 once. A tramway of four miles in length connects the 
 navigable reaches above and below. An attempt v/as made 
 by the Provincial Government to construct a canal for the 
 purpose of overcoming these falls and rapids, which have an 
 aggregate height of fifty feet ; but after nearly all the exca- 
 vation was complete, and a large portion of the stone for the 
 lock prepared, the work was suspended in 1857, and is now 
 lying unprofitable and useless, leaving a monument of ill- 
 directed efforts, painful to contemplate. Above the rapids 
 the magnificent Lake des Chats, is about twenty miles 
 long and one mile wide, though its spacious bays extend it 
 to three miles. On the south shore is Kinnel Lodge, near 
 Arnprior, at the confluence of the Madawaska and Ottawa 
 
 : 
 
 . 
 
 ; 
 
up the Ottawa. 
 
 IQ'J 
 
 Rivers, belonging to the Highland Chief McNab, who first 
 settled this portion of the Upper Ottawa, about the year 
 1824, but it was not regularly laid out till 185 1, when the 
 proper ly came into the hands of D, McLachlan, Esq., who 
 had the honor of entertaining the Prince of Wales, while on 
 his tour on the Ottawa. Here His Royal Highness planted 
 a young oak in memorial of his visit, which may be seen by 
 the tourist. Arnprior is forty miles from Ottawa City, and 
 a station on the Ottawa & Brockville Railway, whence the 
 tourist may take the cars on his return trip to Montreal ; 
 but while up here we would recommend him by all means 
 to proceed about twenty miles further to Portage du Fort, 
 where several islands divide the river into a number of 
 channels, and it is crossed by a reef of crystalized limestone, 
 forming the Portage du Fort Rapids, or more properly 
 speaking, Falls. At the head of the largest island is situated 
 the village, named after the rapids, on the Canada side, which 
 is one of the principal business places for lumbermen. The 
 whole distance lies through magnificent scenery : river, lake, 
 plain, rapid, and mountain succeed each other, and form a 
 fairy landscape of varied interest and beauty. Nature has 
 been no niggard of her Benefits to this section of the Ottawa 
 Valley. The soil is rich in production, and the hills abound 
 in minerals. This is the belt of country where the change 
 from the gneiss and primitive to the metamorphic limestone 
 rock occurs, and it is at such points that these productions 
 are to be with certainty looked for. For some distance the 
 banks of the river are composed of white marble. Between 
 Portage du Fort Village and the head of the Calumet Falls, 
 a distance of seven miles, by a good macadamized road, the 
 tourist reaches the next navigable point of the Ottawa, 
 which is open to the Chapeau Rapids, on the north side of 
 Alumettc Island, opposite to, but five miles from Pembroke, 
 on the south, or by the south channel and Westmeath to 
 
io8 
 
 Up the Ottawa. 
 
 Hav/ley's Island, two and a half miles below the latter town. 
 In addition to the scenery, one object of historical interest 
 presents itself, respecting which we quote Dr. Tach6: — "In 
 ascending the great River Ottawa, one has to stop at the rock 
 of the high mountain, situate in the middle of the portage of 
 the seven chutes, at the foot of the island of the Grand 
 Cahimct. It is here lies Cadieux's tomb, surrounded to this 
 day by a wooden railing. Each time the Company's (Hudson 
 Bay) canoes pass the little rock an old voyageur relates to 
 his younger companions the fate of the brave interpreter." 
 His history is somewhat as follows : — Cadieux was a roving 
 interpreter, who had married a young Algonquin girl, and 
 purchased at this portage furs for the traders. After a winter 
 thus passed he ascertained that a party of Iroquois were 
 waiting to pounce on the canoes. To prevent this, he and 
 a young brave endeavoured to inveigle the Iroquois into the 
 woods, while the canoes descended the rapids, and by a cir- 
 cuitous route himself rejoin the voyageurs. He succeeded in 
 the first part of his design ; but when thirteen days had 
 elapsed, and Cadieux had not been heard from, a party was 
 sent to scour the woods, who found a small hut of boughs, 
 and the corpse of the interpreter Half covered with green 
 branches. His hands were clasped over a large sheet of birch 
 bark, on which was scribbled his tale of exhaustion, hunger 
 and death. The piece of bark on which his death song was 
 written (for Cadieux was a poet) was brought to the post of 
 the Lake of the Two Mountains, and the voyageurs of to-day 
 have set it to a plaintive melody, which is much in the style 
 of the old Norman ballads. 
 
 At Pembroke, seventy miles from Ottawa, the last link of 
 the steamboat navigation of the Ottawa commences, ending 
 at Des Joachim, forty miles higher up the stream, passing 
 through the Upper and Lower Alumette Lakes with all 
 their soft and romantic beauties, and through the stern and 
 
 gloomy 
 
 600 feet 
 
 which ft] 
 
 Dcs J 
 
 miles fro 
 
 stream 
 
 which th 
 
 destined 
 
 incites^' c 
 
 are few 
 
 or the hi 
 
 the mon 
 
 throughoi 
 
 mention, 
 
 unpronou 
 
 Return 
 
 to be had 
 
 meet the 
 
 Brockville 
 
 miles furtJ 
 
 Brockville 
 
 in the Pro 
 
 from the rj 
 
 with consi 
 
 formation ( 
 
 not often 
 
 inhabitants 
 
 and Grand 
 
 named afte: 
 
 sportsmen, 
 
 Islands, an( 
 
 attracted to 
 
 small sheet 
 
 whose scen( 
 
 unusual for 
 
Brockvillc. 
 
 109 
 
 lU 
 U 
 
 gloomy grandeur of the Deep River, whose mountains of 
 600 feet ;in height rise from the water's edge, the depths of 
 which arc little less in profundity. 
 
 Dcs Joachim, the last of steamboat navigation, is fifty 
 miles from the mouth of the River Matawan, the connecting 
 stream between the Ottawa and Lake Nipissing, through 
 which the proposed Ottawa and Lake Huron navigation is 
 destined to run. Above the Falls and Portage ''dcs Alu- 
 mcttcsy" one hundred miles up the river from Ottawa, thcie 
 are few or no settlements ; and the shanty of the lumberman 
 or the hunter are the only marks of civilization that break 
 the monotony of the forest. The lakes which abound 
 throughout this back country are not only too numerous to 
 mention, but their names in the Indian language are almost 
 unpronounceable. 
 
 Returning down the ixver, where splendid pike fishing is 
 to be had, and an occasional salmon-trout, the tourist will 
 meet the train either at Sandpoint, the terminus of the 
 Brockville Railroad (a pretty little village), or proceed five 
 miles further to Arnprior, whence the cars start daily for 
 Brockville. Brockville is one of the pleasantest villages 
 in the Province, situated on an elevation of land which rises 
 from the river in a succession of ridges ; the houses are built 
 with considerable taste, and joined with the terrace-like 
 formation of land, it has an appearance of elegance and ease 
 not often met with in Canada. It contains about 5000 
 inhabitants, and, being the junction of the Ottawa Railway 
 arid Grand Trunk, has a good deal of local traffic ; it was 
 named after General Brock ; it is a good stopping-place for 
 sportsmen, being at the foot of the Lake of the Thousand 
 Islands, and so affording accommodation to those who are 
 attracted to this spot either for shooting or for scenery. A 
 small sheet of water, Charleston Lake, lies 17 miles back, 
 whose scenery is lovely. Fish abound in it, and it is not 
 unusual for the sportsman to take one hundred bass with a 
 
no 
 
 Kingston. 
 
 single line in one day. The boating on it in summer is ex- 
 cellent ; the shore is lined with boat-houses, and there arc 
 several handsome steam and sail yachts on it. A ferry-boat 
 plies every half-hour between Brockville and Morrisburg, in 
 New York State, almost opposite, two or three miles from 
 which is a spot where a view of one hundred islands can be 
 gained at one time. 
 
 Leaving Brockville by the evening train for Kingston, 47 
 miles distant, we arrive there at midnight ; and this being 
 the point where we purpose taking steamer to come down 
 the St. Lawrence and enjoy the scenery of the " Thousand 
 Islands," Rapids, &c., it is as well to take a day or two to see 
 the city and its environs. 
 
 Kingston, called by the Indians " CataraquV,' was the 
 original capital of Upper Canada. A settlement was begun 
 here by the French, under De Courcelles, as early as 1672, 
 under the name of Fort Cataraqui, and the fort subsequently 
 received the name of Fort Frontenac, in honor of the French 
 Count of that name. This fort was afterwards in the posses- 
 sion of the French and the Indians, until it vas destroyed by 
 the expedition under Colonel Bradstreet in 1758. In 1762 
 the place fell into the hands of the British, from whom it 
 received its present name. The advantageous position of 
 this city, from being at the outlet of Lake Ontario into the 
 St. Lawrence, and at the junction of the waters of the Bay of 
 Quinte and the great Cataraqui Creek, together with the 
 Rideau Canal, has made it a place of considerable commercial 
 importance. As a military station, its defences are only 
 second to Quebec. About half-a-mile to the east is a low 
 peninsula, ending in Point Frederick, which, with the other 
 parallel one terminating in Point Henry, encloses Navy Bay, 
 the depot for the maritime armament of Britain on the lakes 
 during the war of 181 2. On an eminence of the peninsula 
 is Fort Henry, commanding the entrance to the lake : this, 
 together with large substantial martello towers, has complete 
 
Kingston. 
 
 Ill 
 
 command of the harbour. Point Frederick is connected with 
 the town by a wooden-bridge, 600 yatds in length, across 
 Cataraqui Bay, It is solidly constructed, and near it are the 
 the Marine Barracks. The harbour of Kingston is formed 
 by Wolfe and Garden Islands lying across the bay, three 
 miles distant : this is a beautiful sheet of water, and a com- 
 modious safe refuge for ships of the largest class. Ship and 
 boat-building is carried on at Kingston to a great extent, and 
 vessels for both lake and ocean navigation are built and fitted 
 out complete. 
 
 About a mile to the west of the city lies the Provincial 
 Penitentiary, a large and massive stone building, surrounded 
 by a high and most substantial wall, with towers at the 
 corners. The arrangements are so complete tliat escape for 
 the convicts, under any circumstances, seems impossible. 
 The cells are so arranged that each keeper has a great num- 
 ber of prisoners, apart from each other, completely under his 
 eye in his rounds, and can, at all times, ascertain without 
 being perceived what is going on. The different trades all 
 find employment in different workshops, and those who enter 
 without a trade are immediately put to learn one. The silent 
 system is pursued except in necessary intercommunication 
 at work. The whole arrangements are conducted upon the 
 principle of the U. S. State prisons ; and to those who have 
 never been through a place of convict confinement, we would 
 by all means recommend a visit. Near the Penitentiary are 
 baths and mineral s^ x'ings, which have been of late years and 
 aro still much frequented. The public buildings of the city 
 are very fine, the principal of which is the Market House, 
 so-called, above which is the Town Hall, and from the dome 
 surmounting it a very extensive view is obtained. Here, also, 
 are two colleges — Queen's and Regiopolis, both conspicuous 
 structures. 
 
 Leaving Kingston by one of the steamers from the West, 
 early in the morning, the tourist will get one of the finest 
 
 ; 
 
 Jl 
 
112 
 
 Down the St. Laivrcncc. 
 
 views to be met with in Canada, and one which, like Niagara, 
 though often dcscrib<?tl in various ways, is really indescribable 
 to do it justice, — The Lake of the Thousand Islands. 
 
 The river issuing from the eastern extremity of Lake On- 
 tario is now, for the first time, called the St. Lawrence. This 
 name was given to the mighty river by Jacques Cartier, 
 who began to explore it on the festival of that martyr. In 
 the course of a few miles the channel becomes so wide, and 
 so full of islands, that it has obtained the name of " The 
 Lake of the Thousand Islands." These islands, which 
 have obtained a world-wide celebrity, consist of fully 1800 
 in number, of every imaginable shape, size, and appearance, 
 some of them barely visible, others covering many acres ; 
 some only a few yards long, others several miles in length ; 
 some presenting little or nothing but bare masses of rock, 
 whilst others are so thickly wooded over, that nothing but the 
 most gorgeous green foliage in summer is to be seen, whilst 
 in autumn, the leaves present colours of different hues of 
 light crimson, yellow, purple and other colours scarcely 
 imaginable. They are truly •' emerald gems in the ring of 
 the wave," and their broken outline presents the most pic- 
 turesque combinations of wood and water. The first or 
 largest of these islands is Grand or Wolfe Island, containing 
 about 9,000 acres, to which there is a ferry-boat constantly 
 plying from Kir ,jn ; it is of an irregular shape, and in- 
 dented by numerous bays. Betwixt its western shore and 
 the city of Kingston lies Garden Island, containing about 30 
 acres, belonging to a firm largely engaged in the rafting 
 business. They employ a large number of vessels in bringing 
 staves from the western portion of tie Upper Province to 
 the island, where they are made into 1 afts for the voyage to 
 Quebec. The boundary line between the United States and 
 the British dominions extends along the middle of the south 
 channel of the St. Lawrence, passing by Cape Vincent on 
 the American shore (a pretty little village), the terminus of 
 
 I 
 
Down the St. Lawrence. 
 
 113 
 
 the Watertown and Cape Vincent Railroad, and afterwards 
 passes between " Duck Island" and the " Galops Islands." 
 Westward, though scarcely one of the thousand islands, lies 
 Amherst Island, the original French name of which was the 
 *' Isle of Tanti": it now belongs to the Earl of Mountcashcl ; 
 5,000 acres of it are under good cultivation. The channels 
 between the extremities and the mainland are called the 
 Upper and Lower Gaps. As a fishin'- ground for pike, 
 maskinong6, black bass, dor^, &c., no . of the St. Law- 
 rence can compare with the shores oi these islands. The 
 largest-sized maskinonge are taken here, not with an ordinary 
 bait, for they scorn the small bait that is so tempting a morsel 
 to their kindred pike ; " but," says Weld, a good fishing 
 authority, speaking of this locality, " I have invariably taken 
 them with fish of a large size, such as no other angler would 
 ever think of putting on his line." Forty or fifty pounds is 
 not an unusual weight for them, and instances are not wanting 
 where much larger ones have been caught. Lanman, in his 
 " Wanderings," makes mention of a maskinong^ he took here 
 which weighed 49 lbs., was nearly 8 feet in length, and took 
 one hour and a quarter to land after he was first hooked. 
 (Vide " Small's Fresh-water Fish," p. 45.) There is also very 
 good spearing here at night, and a week or two spent on 
 either of these islands will amply repay the fisherman, besides 
 giving him the invigorating benefits resulting from the lake 
 breeze. There is no difficulty in getting canoes or accom- 
 modations at any of the farm-houses, but hotels are few and 
 far between. The whole channel of the Lake of the Thousand 
 Islands is a famous spot for sporting ; myriads of wild fowls 
 of every description may be found here, and the facilities for 
 coming upon them round some inte'-posing point, by sud- 
 denly rounding one of the many islets, or, again, by lying 
 concealed on one of the islets and taking them on the wing 
 in their flight past, make this amusement more varied than 
 in most other shooting grounds. It is necessary to have a 
 
 m 
 
 1 1 
 
 'i <i 
 
114 
 
 Down the St. Lawrence. 
 
 good Newfoundland dog or retriever when shooting from the 
 shore. These islands, too, have been the scene of thrilling 
 romance. From their great number and labyrinth-like chan- 
 nels among them, they afibrdcd an admirable retreat for the 
 insurgents :n the last Canadian insurrection, as well as for 
 the American sympathizers with them, who, under the ques- 
 tionable nnme oi patriots, sought only to embarrass the British 
 Government. In 1 838, a band of men, headed by one Johnson, 
 took refuge among these islands, setting all authorities at 
 defiance, and provided with boats of surprising lightness, 
 they committed the most audacious outrages both up and 
 down the river, and baffled all pursuit. The story is told of 
 them, when he was obliged, from close pursuit, to separate 
 from his band, his daughter, with a devotedness and courage 
 that was inimitable, supplied him herself with the necessaries 
 of life in these solitary retreats, and rowed him in her canoe 
 from one island to another under cover of night. 
 
 The passage through the " Thousand Islands" by steamer 
 is generally made in the early morning, leaving Kingston 
 about daylight. You pass close to, and near enough often 
 to cast a pebble from the deck of the steamer on to them, 
 cluster after cluster of circular little islands, whose trees, 
 perpetually moistened by the water, have a most luxuriant 
 leaf, their branches overhanging the current. Again, you 
 pass little winding passages and bays between the islands, 
 the trees on their margins interlacing above them, and form- 
 ing here and there natural bowers ; yet the waters of these 
 bays are so deep that steamers might pass under their shade. 
 Then opens up a magnificent sheet of water, many miles 
 wide, with a large island apparently dividing it into two great 
 rivers ; but as you approach it, you discover that it is but a 
 group of small islands, the river being divided into many parts, 
 looking like silver threads. Again, the river seems to come 
 to an abrupt termination four or five hundred yards in ad- 
 vance of you, but as you approach the threatening rocks, a 
 
Doimi ttie St. Lawrence, 
 
 •15 
 
 cliannel suddenly opens out on the right, you are whirled 
 suddenly into it, and the next moment a magnificent amphi- 
 theatre of lake opens out before you. This, again, to all 
 appearance, is bounded by a dense green bank, but at your 
 approach the mass is moved, as if in a kaleidoscope, and a 
 hundred beautiful little isles appear in its place. Such, for 
 upwards of forty miles, is the scenery through which you 
 glide. Once seen, the remembrance of them is never for- 
 gotten ; and when seen under the bright rays of an early 
 summer dawn, it seems a glimpse of fairy land. Emerging 
 from this beautiful scenery, we come suddenly upon Brock- 
 ville (before mentioned), and, proceeding onwards, nothing 
 further of note occurs till we come to Prescott, 12 miles 
 down the St. Lawrence, which is a very thriving town. This 
 is the terminus of the Ottawa and Prescott Railroad, a road 
 doing a large business, as Prescott, being opposite to Og- 
 densburgh, in New York State, and connected with it by 
 means of two ferry-boats, is the place of transhipment for 
 most of the American goods purchased by the dwellers on 
 the Ottawa, as well as for the export of cattle and Canadian 
 produce. This road was built for the purpose of counteract- 
 ing the stagnation of trade resulting from the construction 
 of the Rideau Canal between Kingston and Ottawa, which 
 diverted the carrying trade previously enjoyed by Prescott ; 
 and this shows how one enterprise stimulates another. The 
 view from the town is exceedingly picturesque, embracing 
 the villa residences, spires, lighthouse, and miniature docks 
 of Ogdensburgh ; and as all passir j steamers call at the one 
 place or the other during the summer, while in the winter a 
 passage is kept open by the heavy railroad steamer, it wears 
 continually an aspect of stir and business. The country 
 around is very pleasant and healthy. Fort Wellington 
 here is a military position of importance, and forms an 
 object of considerable attraction. About a mile below 
 JPrescott are the ruins of an old stone windmill, at 
 
ii6 
 
 Down the St. Lawrence. 
 
 J'lii 
 
 a place called Windmill Point, in which, as well as an 
 adjoining stone house, in 1838 (the second insurrection), a 
 body of Americans, numbering about 400, who had sailed 
 from the vicinity of Sackett's harbour under Von Shultz, a 
 Polish exile, and landed at Prescott, took refuge when attacked 
 by Colonel Young ; here they defended themselves bravely, 
 and killed eighteen of the British. The walls were too strong 
 to be reduced without cannon, and some guns and additional 
 troops were brought up. An attack was then made, when 
 the party in the mill tried to escape, but 156 were taken 
 prisoners and sent to Kingston for trial. Two miles east 
 is the quaint old town of Johnstown, formerly the county 
 town of Leeds and Grenville. At Spencervillc, a small 
 village eight miles distant, the sportsman may find plenty 
 of deer. About five miles below Prescott is Chimney Island, 
 on which are to be seen the remains of an old French fortifi- 
 cation. At this island is the first rapid on the river. Opposite 
 to Prescott is Ogdensburgh, on the American shore, at the 
 mouth of the Osgewatchie, on its west bank. This is a place 
 of some importance, a railway to Rouse's Point connecting 
 it with Boston and Montreal. The remains of the original 
 fort called "La Presentation," and built in 1748, are still to 
 be seen. Twenty-one miles further on we pass Morrisburg, 
 at the foot of the Rapide de Plat, a thriving town, a short 
 distance below which lies Chryslers Fann, where, in 18 13, 
 a battle was fought between the English and the Americans. 
 The former were commanded by General Morrison with 800 
 men ; the latter, who were the ilite of the army, under Gen. 
 Boyd, were defeated with great slaughter, forced to retire 
 to their boats, and ultimately reached Plattsburg. Thirty 
 miles below Ogdensburgh is Louisville, whence stages run 
 to Massena Springs, seven miles distant. These spfings 
 are five in number, on the banks of the River Racket. The 
 largest is called St. Regis Spring, in honour of the tribe of 
 Indians of that name who discovered its virtues, and long ago 
 
Down the St. Lawrence. 
 
 117 
 
 used its medicinal waters. Masscna is a place of popular 
 resort among the northern New Yorkers and Vermonters.and 
 of late years numbers of Canadians have visited the springs : 
 and from vheir beautiful surroundings and vicinity to the Long 
 Sault Rapids, only four or five miles distant, they are a very 
 pleasant summer watering-place. The United States Hotel 
 is a large first-class house, where may be had good horses 
 and carriages, boats and fishing tackle. Visitors coming from 
 Montreal can take the Montreal steamers to Louisville Land- 
 ing, and by stage, or via Rouse's Point and Potsdam Junction. 
 Proceeding onwards we come to Dickinson's Landing, yy 
 miles from Montreal, a station on the Grand Trunk, and lying 
 at the head of the Cornwall Canal and the Long Sault Rapids. 
 These rapids are nine mils in length, divided in the centre 
 by several islands in a continuous line. Both the north and 
 south channel can be used, but the south is generally pre- 
 ferred ; the velocity of the current here is exceedingly swift, 
 a raft drifting through in forty minutes. The Cornwall Canal, 
 built to avoid these rapids, is the longest of all the St. Law- 
 rence canals, being 1 1 J miles : it is only needed for vessels 
 bound up the river, as from the size and regular inclination 
 of the rapids steamers and other vessels have no difficulty in 
 descending the river. The scenery of the Long Sault Rapids 
 is excitingly beautiful ; here and there the surging waters 
 present all the appearance of the ocean in a storm, in other 
 places their surface is perfectly unruffled, — a deceptive still- 
 ness from their very velocity ; and the raft that meets the 
 eye in its passage over, apparently doomed to destruction, 
 swiftly rounds some threatening obstacle, leaving it far in its 
 wake. Great strength, dexterity, and courage, are required 
 and employed in passing them. The voyageurs who man the 
 rafts are a peculiar class, and a slight description of them will 
 not be amiss here. Gay and mirthful by nature and habit, 
 patient and enduring at labour, seeking neither ease nor 
 wealth — they let the morrow take care of itself When 
 
Ii8 
 
 Down the St. Lawreme. 
 
 enduring the severest hardships they will joke and laugh, and 
 sing their Canadian songs, the majority of which are extem- 
 poraneous, and of a rude character. 
 
 At the lower end of the LongSault Rapids, the two cur- 
 rents of the north and south channels meet and dash against 
 each other with great impetuosity, forming what is called the 
 *' Big Pitch." This is almost directly opposite the pleasant 
 and stirring town of Cornwall, sixty-eight miles from 
 Montreal, which, though very lively from the constant 
 transit of stealers, &c., through the canal, has little other 
 trade than that :«f being the county town. Excellent duck- 
 shooting is to be had in the fall of the year here, the birds 
 staying at the foot of the rapids for several weeks on 
 their passage southwards ; canoes can always be had in 
 the town with an Indian attendant, who, with a good sports- 
 man, will thoroughly enter into the excitement of the 
 sport, and guide him to the favourite resorts of the teal, 
 the mallard, and widgeon. Nearly opposite to Cornwall, 
 situated partly in the United States and partly in Canada, 
 for the boundary line of 45 ® strikes the St. Lawrence there, 
 is the Indian village of St. Regis. Here, on a small portion 
 of the hunting-grounds of their once powerful nation, a set- 
 tlement of .'roquois exists. The number of British and 
 Aiaerican Indians is about 900. M^'ny of the men continue 
 to procure a precarious subsistence by hunting, and the 
 women employ themselves in making up the skins of animals 
 killed in winter into mitts and moccasins, and in manufac- 
 turing splint baskets and brooms. There is a large stone 
 church here, with a steeple and two bells, respecting one of 
 which is the following history : — Purchased in France by 
 means of furs sent out by tbemselves, it was captured by an 
 English" cruiser, taken to Saicm, Mass., and afterwards pur- 
 chased for the church at Decrfield. Their priest, hearing of 
 this, excited them to a crusade for its recovery, and they, 
 coming suddenly on that village under cover of darkness, 
 
 i. 
 
 I 
 
 
I 
 
 >\\ 
 
 K- ;'.; r,. 
 
 •'P'' ,>,e 
 
 ■ 
 
 Xrti 
 
Th,- S(iiiii7i'- luiskrt Makn---1 by Kiri^i^I/off). 
 
 Xf>rM\^, I'I'iiin. 
 
1 
 
 1 
 
 Down the St. Lavrence. 
 
 119 
 
 slew and took prisoners all the inhabitants ; tbjn, fas- 
 tening the bell to a long pole, it was carried on their 
 shoulders 150 miles, and buried in the woods near what is 
 now Burlington, Vermont, whence, in the following spring, it 
 was safely conveyed to the belfry built for its original recep- 
 tion. After passing St. Regis, the St. Lawrence flows 
 unrestrictedly through British dominions. At a little distance 
 below Cornwall the river expands into a lake, five and a half 
 miles in width, and twenty-five miles long, called Lake St. 
 Francis. The surface of this lake, especially near the foot 
 of it, is interspersed with a great number of small islands, 
 which add to the beauty of the expanse of waters ; — it is a 
 noticeable fact that at the foot of almost all the rapids, the 
 river widens considerably, as if to show by contrast how 
 smooth and placid its waters might be, after their wild and 
 tumultuous course in the narrow passes. Passing the village 
 of Lancaster, on the north shore of the lake, about midway, 
 we come to Coteau du Lac, 30 miles from Cornwall, at the 
 mouth of the River Delisle ; this is a small village, and the 
 name as well as style of the buildings denote its French 
 origin. Being, however, at the head of the Coteau Rapids, 
 it is a very pretty stopping-place, and affords excellent fishing 
 and water-fowl shooting. Nine miles from it is the village 
 of " Cedars," which gives its name to a part of the rapids. 
 In fact, the eleven miles of incline here, over which the water 
 rushes, is divided into three sections, called, respectively, 
 Coteau, Cedars, or Split Rock, and Cascades. The latter 
 name probably has been given from the water falling over 
 several ledges of rock one after the other, giving it the ap- 
 pearance of cascade over cascade, and causing a peculiar 
 sensation in coming down it as the vessel glides from ledge 
 to ledge of rock. At the foot of the Cascades on the south 
 bank is the village of Beauharnois, 27 miles from Montreal, 
 where vessels bound upwards enter the canal to pass round 
 these rapids. The Beauharhois Canal is 1 1^ miles long. The 
 
120 
 
 Down the St Laivrence, 
 
 village is very prettily situated at the head of a bay, formed 
 by a point of land stretching out on the west, on which is a well 
 wooded and pretty spot called " The Grove," a favorite resort 
 for pic-nics from Montreal. From here a fine view can be 
 had of Montreal Mountain in the distance. Leaving Beau- 
 harnois, we find ourselves on the south side of Lake St. Louis, 
 another expansion of the River St. Lawrence, whose north 
 shore we sailed up on the upward journey to Ottawa city. 
 About five miles from Beauharnois is Nim's Island, a high 
 mound of peculiar shape, which has doubtless been an Indian 
 post and burial-ground : it is beautifully cultivated, and belongs 
 to the Grey Nunnery, Monti eal. Near this, at the mouth of 
 the Chateauguay River (an excellent fishing-ground), is the 
 village of Chateauguay, one mile from which is the celebrated 
 battle-field of Chateauguay, memorable for the victory gained 
 there by Colonel De Salaberry, in 1813, over the American 
 troops under General Hampton, who were repulsed with con- 
 siderable loss, and obliged to fall back upon Plattsburg. 
 Proceeding onwards we pass opposite to Lachine, ten miles 
 from Montreal, the Indian village of Caughnawaga (pro- 
 nounced Cok-na-wau-ga.) This consists of nothing but a 
 number of Indian huts or cabins, occupied by a portion of 
 the once powerful and ferocious tribe of the Six Nations, 
 who subsist by navigating steamers, boats, and rafts over the 
 rapids in summer, and in the winter by the profits arising 
 from the sale of snow-shoes, moccasins, &c. There are about 
 1 100 of them in number, and they are remarkable for their 
 orderly and quiet behaviour. In early times they were 
 distinguished for their predatory incursions upon their 
 neighbours in the New England provinces, and the bell that 
 now hangs in their church was the proceeds of one of these 
 excursions. They behaved nobly during the rebellion of 
 '37-8. While attending worship on the morning of the 4th 
 November, '38, a party of insurgents surrounded the church ; 
 the Indians immediately turned out, and the Chief, setting 
 
 ' 
 
■ 
 
 Kingston to Toronto. 
 
 121 
 
 an example tnat was promptly followed by all, raised the war 
 whoop, seized the person next him, and wrested the musket 
 out of his hands. The others, panic-stricken, immediately 
 surrendered, and, tied with their own sashes, were taken 
 prisoners to Montreal ; for this act they have received special 
 marks of Her Majesty's favour. Opposite to Caughnawaga 
 is Lachine, whence the tourist can return to Montreal by 
 cars, or, shooting the rapids of Lachine (before described), 
 pass under the Victoria Bridge, and so land at the wharf in 
 the City of Montreal. 
 
 FROM KINGSTON TO TORONTO. 
 
 lat 
 se 
 of 
 th 
 
 i 
 
 Travelling westward from Kingston nothing worthy of 
 note attracts the attention till arriving at Napanee, whence 
 we for some time journey along the margin of the beautiful 
 Bay of Quinte, — a bay which might with more propriety be 
 called an estuary, it being the mode of exit of the Trent 
 River. By means of it on the one side, and Lake Ontario 
 on the other, is formed the peninsula of Prince Edward 
 County. At Tyendinaga, on the northern shore, is a set- 
 tlement of the Indian tribe of Mohawks, who separated from 
 their nation in the State of New York about 1 784. They 
 had embraced Christianity long previously, and as far back 
 as the reign of Queen Anne were presented with a service 
 of plate for their communion. They are Episcopalians, and 
 their place of worship having become too small for its con- 
 gregation, they built out of their own means a commodious 
 stone edifice. 
 
 Belleville, forty-eight miles from Kingston and one 
 hundred and twelve from Toronto, at the mouth of the River 
 
122 
 
 Kingston to Toronto. 
 
 Moira, a first-class station on the Grand Trunk, is a thriving , 
 place and well worthy of a visit. The vicinity of BeKeville > 
 affords several beautiful views of the bay, one especially, 
 about four miles below the town, where the promontory of 
 Ox-point jutting out a long distance towards an opposite . 
 headland, Massassaga-point, on the south shore, causes the 
 channel to contract to less than half its ordinary width. 
 The saw-mills and piles of lumber detract considerably from 
 the picturesque appearance of the harbour, on a near view ; 
 but the town itself presents an imposing aspect from the 
 water, rising as it does gradually from the edge of the bay 
 to the point of a high bluff, vhere the fine spire of St. 
 Michael's Church forms a fitting apex to the view. The 
 position of Belleville is very healthy, the heat of summer 
 being tempered by fine westerly breezes, which prevail 
 throughout the summer months, generally setting in about 
 10 a. m., and continuing to blow briskly till sunset. This 
 may be attributable to its vicinity to Lake Ontario, This 
 place has good communication both by rail and steam with 
 various places of interest, the steamers that visit the port 
 affording facilities for a trip to Picton, the Lake of the Moun- 
 tain, Kingston, &c. This " Lake of the Mountain" is a 
 remarkable curiosity. About four and a half miles from Belle- 
 ville, in the 2nd concession of Ameliasburgh, on the farm of 
 D. Gibson, Esq., there exists a most perfect and unique 
 example of a volcanic upheaval, known in the neighborhood 
 as " The Mountain," which consists of felspar and gneiss, 
 rising almost vertically from the plain to a height of about 
 eighcy or a hundred feet. It is about 250 yards long and 
 half that in breadth, affording a complete exemplification of 
 the class of natural phenomena to which it belongs. On 
 this eminence is a remarkable, deep, and black looking 
 lake, probably the crater of an ancient volcano ; it is a 
 favourite place of resort for pic-nic parties. The botanist 
 will also be richly repaid m the surrounding country, 
 
 ., 
 
 . 
 
Kingston to Toronto. 
 
 123 
 
 < 
 
 , 
 
 which contains several rare plants. The Bay of Quinte is 
 finely adapted for boating, either rowing or saihng, for a 
 distance of about twelve miles to the westward and about 
 forty miles in an easterly direction. There is very good 
 fishing, especially for the troller ; pike, bass, dor^, perch, 
 Oswego bass or sheepshead, and chub, being the principal 
 fish. The bass and chub, which latter attain a larger size 
 here, readily rise to the fly, and very good sport may be had 
 with them if the day is at all cloudy. The most attractive 
 fly in these waters seems to be an artificial bumble-bee or 
 grasshopper. For large bass, which abound here, but are 
 very wary, a large white moth in the dusk of the evening is 
 a never failing bait, and the fly called the sturgeon fly 
 seldom fails to attract. Good duck shooting may be had 
 here on the bay, and in the marshes at Ox-point, as well as 
 in Ameliasburgh, at the outlet of Roblin Lake. Woodcock 
 and snipe are plentiful in the late summer and early fall, and 
 plover abound along the shore and in the marshes. Occa- 
 sionally a fox hunting party is got up with beagles, and a 
 good run may occasionally be had, Ox-point never failing to 
 furnish a brush. Belleville is the southern terminus of the 
 Hastings Road, which extends north to the Madawaska 
 River, and there will no doubt be an increased settlement 
 along the upper part of it, as the country of the Upper 
 Ottawa becomes more thickly populated, which it cannot 
 fail to do if the proposed Lake Huron Canal be carried out. 
 About twenty-si^ miles north of Belleville lie Belmont, 
 Madoc, and Marmora, all of them townships rapidly rising 
 into note from their iron mines and fine white marble 
 quarries. This marble is of a pure whiteness, and admits 
 of a .very high polish. It is of first rate quality, and is pro- 
 nounced by competent judges to be hardly if at all inferior 
 to the celebrated Italian Carrara marble. The quarries and 
 iron mines have both been lying in a quiescent state for 
 some time, until recently some eminent capitalists from 
 
 • ii 
 
 I fi 
 
124 
 
 Kingston to Toronto. 
 
 Cleveland, U. S., took a large amount of stock in the united 
 companies. They have amalgamated with the Cobourg & 
 Peteiboro' Railway, so that by boat on Rice Lake, and train 
 from Harwood on the above menti ned road, access to the 
 mines is made easy. The operations they intend carrying 
 on will be on a very extensive scale, as they purpose getting 
 out 100 to 150 tons of the ore daily, as soon as they have 
 all their "plant" thoroughly escablished. Eleven miles west 
 is Trenton, backed by a good agricultural country, and from 
 ils position, ofiering great advantages of water-power ; if an 
 outlay were made in the construction of dams, machinery 
 enough could be put in operation to supply every article of 
 manufacture. It must eventually become a manufacturing 
 town. 
 
 Twenty-one miles west of Belleville is the prettily laid 
 out town of Brighton, remarkable for its natural harbour of 
 refuge, one of the best on Lake Ontario, called Presqu' Isle 
 Bay. This is formed by a narrow peninsula stretching out 
 in front of the village, forming a perfect lagoon on the 
 east, enclosed on three sides and a half, so that whatever 
 winds may blow, the vessels lying here are comparatively 
 safe. 
 
 Ninety miles west of Kingston we come to Cobourg, a 
 very busy town and prettily situated withal on the lake. It 
 ranks only second to Toronto and Hamilton in a business 
 point of view, from its comparative nearness to Rochester 
 and Oswego, which are brought into daily communication 
 with it by means of steamers. The soil around Cobourg, 
 and in fact from here westwards, is very fertile, producing 
 great quantities of wheat, and of a very good quality — large 
 quantities of which find their way to Rochester, and are 
 there mixed with American wheat, passing for Genesee 
 flour. It is also possessed of very superior water-power, and 
 can boast of manufactures in the shape of cloth and tweeds, 
 which successfully compete with those of any other place 
 
Kingston to To/onio. 
 
 125 
 
 for durability and quality. Here is situated Victoria College, 
 built by the Wesleyan Methodist body, attended by about 
 150 students. It is a fine handsome edifice, and has a good 
 high school in connection with it. Cobourg possesses one 
 oi the finest town halls in Canada, containing the best pro- 
 portioned ball-room in the Province, and honored by the 
 Prince of Wales on his visit. The gaol here is also a strong, 
 massive and imposing building. 
 
 This place has the advantage of a large and well settled 
 back country, which brings a considerable amount of busi- 
 ness to the front ; and the Cobourg & Peteiboro' Railway 
 bids fair to do a large amount of business in bringing out 
 lumber, which is largely manufactured on the Otonabee 
 River and connecting waters of a chain of lakes some fifteen 
 miles north. The nearest of these to Cobourg is Rice 
 Lake, twelve miles distant, so called on account of the large 
 quantities of that grain which grow there in a wild state on 
 its banks and in its marshy edges ; this the Indians gather 
 in the fall of the year, by laying the stalks over the edges of 
 their canoes, and then beating out the grain with a rough 
 wooden mallet or billet of wood. This lake is nearly thirty 
 miles long, and only seven miles wide, well studded with 
 islands, which cause it to present a most picturesque ap- 
 pearance. The Otonabee River falls into it at the north 
 from Peterborough, and the Trent River issues from its 
 eastern extremity, falling into the Bay of Quinte, making 
 through its ii regular course a length of nearly one hundred 
 miles. The Otonabee River connects it with a chain of 
 lakes still further to the north ; these as well as Rice Lake 
 and the Otonabee River are but expansions and channels of 
 the Trent itself, just as Lake St. Peter, Lake St. Francis, 
 &c., are of the St. Lawrence. The names of the principal of 
 these lakes in the Colborne district are Trmt, Shebauticon, 
 Balsam, Bobcaygeon, Chemongy Pigeon, Sturgeon, Mud, Cam- 
 eron, and a host oi other smaller ones. Describe one and 
 
126 
 
 Kingston to Toronto. 
 
 yo\i describe all. All of these lakes abound with fish, and 
 to say which of them affords the best fishing ground would 
 be a very difficult matter. We will commence with Rice 
 Lake, in which maskinongd of the largest size have been 
 caught, and it was only last year (1865) ^^ American visitor 
 from Rochester caught one that weighed upwards of 30 lbs. 
 Black bass and perch of a large size are found. Perhaps 
 the best fishing spot on this lake is at the mouth of the 
 Otonabee River, on the north sid and alongside the abut- 
 ments of the bridge at Harwood and Keene. There is an 
 Indian village here, whose inhabitants are very thrifty and 
 industrious; they belong to the tribe of the Mississaga 
 Indians (one of the first that held Upper Canada) ; they are 
 ardent lovers of the chase, and well acquainted with the best 
 fishing and shooting places in the vicinity : on this account 
 they are repeatedly engaged by parties who camp out in 
 pursuit of the pleasures of the rod or gun. 
 
 At Gore's Landing, which is reached by a stage running 
 tri-weekly, there are two comfortable inns, the only ones in 
 the vicinity, and boats and canoes (flat-bottomed boats are 
 the best, being less likely to upset, as well as affording more 
 room) can be obtained from any of the residents on the lake 
 shores, who are always glad to see the beauties of the lake 
 appreciated by strangers, and who are very hospitable to all 
 visitors. Harwood is situated at the present terminus of 
 the Cobourg & Peterboro 'Railway, to which place during 
 the summer three or four trains are intended to be regularly 
 run daily. 
 
 In the fall of the year Rice LaPie is the resort of thousands 
 of wild ducks of every species, partridges, quail, and game 
 birds of every description, which flock here to feed on the 
 wild rice. As might be expected from the abundance of 
 their food they are in excellent condition. Here may be 
 seen the Virginia Rail in large numbers, excessively plump,, 
 and very good eating ; the Bp^pliak having doffed his suinmer 
 
Kingston to Toronto. 
 
 127 
 
 plumage and put on his russet coat is here as much the 
 rice bird as when he reaches the swamps of Carolina a few 
 weeks later. Bittern are numerous in the reeds, and an 
 occasional heron may be seen standing on one leg like a 
 statue, intent on the motions of the finny tribe, though too 
 wary to admit of the sportsman's near approach. Snipe 
 abound for a few weeks only, though a few remain to breed ; 
 woodcock breed here also and are numerous. There are 
 several shooting boxes here and there along the south shore 
 belonging to gentlemen in Cobourg, but most parties prefer 
 camping out, being thus able to move from place to place 
 according as the ducks, &c., are more or less plentiful. 
 Decoys in October, when the fall ducks come in, are essen- 
 tial. 
 
 Proceeding up the Otonabee River, at a distance of 30 
 miles from Cobourg is Peterboro', connected with it and 
 Port Hope by rail. Till the completion of these lines it was 
 almost cut off during the winter from communication with 
 the front, but now all seasons of the year are alike in afford- 
 ing access to it. Most of its trade lies in lumber ; and the 
 various places scattered along this chain of lakes, such as 
 Fenelon Falls, &c., situated as they are in the midst of a 
 good pine country, intersected by numerous small streams, 
 and with such a facility for shipment of their produce either 
 by land or water to the lake shore, whence they mostly find 
 their way to Oswego or Rochester, afford the greatest 
 facilities for lumbering. Fenelon Falls village is on the 
 Trent, between Cameron and Sturgeon Lakes, and is a very 
 pretty picturesque spot ; taking its name from a fall 20 feet 
 high and 300 feet in width, of the horse-shoe form. A 
 steamer from Lindsay plies daily to and fro during the sum- 
 mer, thus enabling the tra.veller to make the entire round 
 of these lakes and return to the Trent. The town of Lindsay 
 is situated on Lake Scugog, and like the other places here 
 is dependent on lumber for its principal trade, though a great 
 
128 
 
 Kingston to Toronto. 
 
 deal of local traffic is done, it being the centre of a pretty 
 well settled district. It is 40 miles from Port Hope. The 
 tourist may go east from Fenelon Falls by steamer to 
 Bobcaygeon, through Pigeon Lake, Buckhorn and Chemung 
 Lakes to Bridgenorth, and if he takes canoe at the Indian 
 village between the two latter lakes, he can go through 
 another chain of waters which for beauty of scenery can 
 scarcely be surpassed. Lakefikld, on the Otonabee River, 
 at the south-end oi Kah-cha-wan-oo-kah Lake, is the residence 
 of a number of English gentlemen who have taken up their 
 abode there chiefly on account of the attractions these back 
 lakes afford. Strangers visiting this place meet with every 
 civility and attention, and could never be at a loss to find 
 abundant means of conveying themselves to the chain of 
 beautiful lakes stretching northward half-way to the Arctic 
 ocean. Lake Scugog, on which it is situated, is an ex- 
 tremely pretty sheet of water ; in form it is, as it were, a 
 double lake, being nearly divided longitudinally by a 
 peninsula from the south ; on its banks are several vil- 
 lages — Port Perry, Scugog, &c. The most curious 
 feature about this lake is the large quantity of swamped 
 timber that lines its bays; huge trees, whose lifeless 
 branches look like spectres of the forest, stand immersed 
 with their roots from eight to ten feet under water. 
 This has been caused by the erection of the Government 
 dam at Lindsay for facilitating the lumber trade, throwing 
 the waters back and submerging the sides of the lake, 
 especially towards its head or southern shore. But as there 
 is no evil without some good, so these unsightly trunks and 
 roots afford a most secure retreat for the wild fowl, which 
 breed here undisturbed ; and the largest black bass may be 
 seen lying under the twisted roots, safe in the intricacy of 
 the flood-wood. There is excellent night spearing on the 
 shallows near Scugog village, the fish coming on to the 
 feeding grounds at dark. The whole region on the south is 
 
Kingston to Toronto. 
 
 129 
 
 woody, low and marshy ; the water is clear, the bottom 
 muddy. Trolling with a good sized bright spoon, and a 
 thick line, never fails to secure some fine maskelongd and 
 black bass. A short distance from bcugog village is a small 
 island called Bald Point Island. This has been an Indian 
 burying ground, — tradition asserts the scene of a furious 
 contest between two hostile tribes. Great quantities of 
 bones, teeth, pottery, and arrow heads strew the beach, and 
 can be picked out of the clayey banks after the winter's 
 thaw has loosened a fresh stratum of mould. It is a lovely, 
 secluded spot, with a gravelly shore, where the water shoals 
 gradually, making a splendid bathing ground, and save the 
 kingfisher and occasional passing flight of the duck hawk, 
 or the mud turtle sunning itself on the beach, of which 
 there are numbers here, and of very large size, there arc no 
 signs of animal life. There are no trout to be found in 
 these lakes or in the streams running into them, probably 
 from their muddy and .sluggish nature ; the whole channel 
 of the river and laker, being a slow, deep, and still sti^eam. 
 In the streams south, running into Lake Ontario, trout are 
 numerous, but the only fly-fishing is in the mill-ponds, 
 which are now, as a general thing, well protected. For- 
 merly, in the Trent, below Rice Lake, salmon used to 
 be abundant, but the sawdust of the mills, and the wanton 
 destruction of the fish, have driven them from their old 
 haunts, probably not to revisit them again, unless artifici- 
 ally hatched and turned into them. Splendid duck-shoot- 
 ing can be had near Scugog village, by getting out on a 
 swamped log or tuft of reeds, sending the canoe away for 
 a couple of hours to beat among the sunken timber, and 
 take the teal or ducks on the wing as they fly past your 
 hiding place. From its easy access and nearness to civili- 
 zation, this spot affords a more than usual attraction, and 
 only requires to be seen to be appreciated. From the village 
 there is a tri-weekly mail cart to Bowmanville, twenty miles 
 
130 
 
 Kingston to Toronto. 
 
 I 
 
 south, a station on the Grand Trunk Railway, and the 
 steamer from Lindsay touches at the little wharf every 
 alternate day, so that if preferable you can proceed thither 
 and take rail for Port Hope. This is a very pretty town, 
 lying in a valley on the edge of Lake Ontario, with a very 
 good harbour ; the hills rise gradually at the back of it, slop- 
 ing up to the pine ridges of Orono, and abounding with 
 partridge, hares, and the woodchuck or ground-hog. In the 
 country back of Port Hope, excellent deer-shooting is to be 
 had. The following routes are recommended by a well 
 known sportsman of that district : " Port Hope to Lind- 
 say per rail ; Lindsay to Fenelon Falls ; portage on to 
 Cameron Lake, and you have the shooting on Cameron and 
 Balsam Lakes, and up the banks of Burnt River." Again, 
 "via Peterboro' to Stoney Lake i/miles— carry your tanoes 
 in wagon, — but the country very wild all through the town- 
 ships of Anstruther and Chandos, though there is abundance 
 of deer." In deer-shooting like this, you must have a good 
 tent, with all the necessary cooking things, and at least two 
 Indian or white attendants ; three or four good hounds are 
 essential, and of the breed between a fo.xhound and a harrier ; 
 this is considered the best for the purpose, as being generally 
 more compact, and carried in canoes easier and better. 
 Here may be enjoyed to the full by the sportsman the '.y- 
 citing method oi still-hunting, peculiar to the summer season. 
 When a herd of deer has been discovered feeding upwind, the 
 hunter stations himself in close ambush well downwind, and to 
 leeward of their upward track, and then sends off an attendant 
 in a wide circle well to leeward, till he has got a mile or two 
 ahead of the herd, when very slowly, observing the pro- 
 foundest silence, he cuts across their direction, and gives 
 them his wind, as it is technically called, dead ahead. This 
 is the crisis of the affair ; if he gives the wind too strongly, 
 if he makes the slightest noise, they scatter in an instant, 
 and away. But if he give it slightly, not fancying themselves 
 
the 
 
x 
 
 
 < ■'■ i I 
 
 V ■ I' ,, , ,i 
 
 .^ 
 
'A 
 
 V, 
 
 % 
 
 -.J 
 
 M 
 
( 
 
 'loronto to tolUngivood. 
 
 131 
 
 V 
 
 r 
 
 pursued, but simply approached, they merely turn away from 
 it, working their way downwind to the deadly ambush, of 
 which their keenest scent cannot, under such circumstances, 
 inform them. Of all woodcraft, none is so difficult, none so 
 exciting, and none requires so rare a combination as this, of 
 quickness of sight, wariness of tread, and perfection of judg- 
 ment. From Port Hope, with the exception of Oshawa, 
 near which there is a large marsh and bayou called " Hall's 
 Marsh," a great resort for dujks, there is nothing of any 
 Importance till passing the Scarboro' Highlands and round- 
 ing " the Island" with its sandy ridge and belt of scanty 
 trees, we reach Toronto. 
 
 *i' 
 
 f'ROM TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD. 
 
 , 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 Toronto, the chief city of Upper Canada, lies on the 
 north-west shore of Lake Ontario, facing a very spacious 
 bay, somewhat oval in form, formed by a sand bar or spit, 
 some seven miles in length, stretching out to the west, and 
 terminating in what is called Gibraltar Point, forming a well 
 sheltered and yet accessible harbour. This sand bar has 
 no doubt been caused by the action of the lake water when 
 agitated, meeting the current of the River Don, which enters 
 the bay on the east, and thus, one counteracting the other, 
 they precipitate whatever each holds in solution. Toronto, 
 or as it was styled till 1834, York, was founded by Governor 
 Simcoe in 1793, who, having formed extensive plans for the 
 improvement of the colony, resolved on laying the founda- 
 tion of a provliM ill) ( (jpjtal, and caused the spot where it 
 now stands to he surveyed. It soon grew into a flourishing 
 
132 
 
 Toronto to Collingwood. 
 
 town, enjoying every prosperity till the war of 1812. In the 
 subsequent year it was captured by the American army 
 under General Pike, who lost his life at the storming of the 
 fort, whic was ' ;troyed by an explosion, causing great loss 
 of life. G . i . . Sheaffe, who commanded the British troops, 
 was forced to • "; ,* towards Kingston. It was held, how- 
 ever, but a fev^ days, . '■'le in the meantime the Government 
 House, the public buildmgs, and the spoils which could not 
 be carried away were burned. The ground upon which the 
 city is situated is nearly level, sloping gently up from the 
 water's edge to the rear, called Davenport Hill, where from 
 several points good views of the city, lake and bay may be 
 had. This range of hills bears evidences of having been a 
 former margin of the lake, when the waters stood much 
 higher than at present, and the flat site of the city was 
 probably a marsh or shallow. Owing to this flatness of 
 country on the site of the city, Toronto presents at a dis- 
 tance no striking aspect. It is connected by railroad and 
 steamers with all the principal places in Canada and the 
 neighbouring Union. The Grand Trunk Railway, the 
 Great Western, and the Northern, connect it at all seasons 
 of the year with all places of importance, and the country 
 round is fertile and productive in the extreme. The 
 public buildings of the city are numerous, and many 
 of them really very handsome. First and foremost 
 among them is the University, standing amidst the quiet 
 retreats of the University Park, with its splendid avenues 
 leading into two of the main thoroughfares, neatly planted 
 and well attended to. This building, about which many 
 party differences have risen, is Norman in style ; its walls 
 are built of white stone fi'om Ohio, and its columns, capital, 
 &c., are composed of stone brought from France. The 
 Q}[i\ti faqades of the building are to the south and east, — the 
 former of great and massive elevation for distant effect from 
 the lake and bay, with a massive Norman tower in the 
 
Toronto to Collingwood. 
 
 m 
 
 centre, 120 feet in height. I'art of the grounds are appro- 
 priated to the purposes of a botanical garden, and close by 
 are the buildings of the magnetical observatory, whose 
 apparatus is very complete. The whole building with its 
 museum will well repay a visit. Tyinity College, on Queen 
 Street West, standing in a spacious park of twenty acres, is 
 another beautiful building, presenting from the lake and bay 
 a splendid appearance, with its dark backgrounr' of noble 
 trees. It is of white brick, with stone dressin^^^ ., .. ■ igned 
 in the style of pointed English architecture, ' 'rh ^ win- 
 dows and ornamented gables and turrets, i . c x\'onnal 
 School Buildings, with their beautifully laia t:f grounds, 
 are one of the most attractive spots in thr city, and the 
 building is said to be the largest of the k ' in America. 
 St. James Cathedral, and the Roman Catholic Cathedral of 
 St. Michael, are both handsome buildings, and when their 
 towers or spires are completed will add not a little to the 
 appearance of the city from a distance. Osgoode Hall, con- 
 taining the Courts of Law, is a fine building ; and the 
 Provincial Lunatic Asylum, at the western extremity of the 
 city, is well worthy of a visit by the curious in such matters. 
 It is kept in admirable order; and though it is a painful 
 sight at all times to be brought in contact with "humanity 
 so fallen," yet it is pleasing to see the degree of comfort 
 many of the patients seem to enjoy. There is no difficulty in 
 obtaining permission to view it. The Merchants' Exchange 
 also reflects great credit on the skill and plans of the archi- 
 tect. One of the principal thoroughfares, called Yonge 
 Street, extends northwards under that name through a rich 
 £.nd prosperous agricultural dictrict about thirty-six miles ; 
 probably the longest street in the world, with the exception 
 of the old Roman roads in England 
 
 Young as Toronto is in years, it has none of the associa- 
 tions which render Quebec almost classic, yet it is as proud 
 of its beautiful bay and aquatic sports as the latter of its 
 
 
134 
 
 Toronto to Collingwood. 
 
 ancient walls and citadel. One great drawback its citizens 
 have to contend with, in regard to their public buildings, is 
 the absence of any stone quarries in its neighborhood, thus 
 compelling them to either have resort to brick, or bring at 
 an increased expense stone from a distance. There is a 
 total absence too of any beautiful scenery around the city, 
 the only really pretty drives being out on the lake shore 
 road, over the River Humber, and up to Dundas Street, re- 
 turning through Mimico Village ; — up by the Don and 
 Danforth Plank Road, on the edge of the Don River, pass- 
 ing the cemetery, going through Yorkville, and returning 
 down the Davenport road ; or up Yonge Street, past the 
 romantic dell of Hogs Hollow, celebrated in the rebellion of 
 '37 as being the rendezvous of Mackenzie's party at Mont- 
 gomery's tavern, still existing, near which, in some gravel 
 pits, good fossils of the tertiary formation can be found. 
 Shooting in the neighborhood, except in the spring and fall, 
 when a few ducks, and they very wild, may be had on the 
 bay, is not worth looking after. At the mouth of the Etobi- 
 coke River, some ten miles west, there is a large bayou 
 affording good duck shooting, but there is (or till quite 
 recently was) only one boat there, and that not easily obtain- 
 able. On the Northern Railway, some thirty miles distant, 
 is a " Pigeon Rookery," at a place called Harrison's crossing. 
 Here in certain seasons the passenger pigeon congregates 
 in thousands to breed, and is the object of pursuit to who- 
 ever is master of even a rusty firelock. April is the month 
 in which to go out after them. You may leave Toronto by 
 the morning train, get off at Gilford or Lefroy, enjoy a day 
 among the birds, and return with a well filled bag the same 
 evening. But it is only in certain seasons, about once in 
 four or five years that they are numerous; probably the 
 abundance of beech mast the previous year, their principal 
 food, attracting them, and its absence compelling them to 
 seek other quarters. Of fish, the only kind to be met with 
 
Toronto to Collingwood. 
 
 U5 
 
 here are perch, pike, and a few bass (none exceeding two 
 lbs. in weight) in the pools round the island ; eels are abun- 
 dant, which are taken by night lines ; but the sportsman 
 need scarcely unpack his rod while staying here. To make 
 up in some measure for this deficiency in sport, the boating 
 here is excellent, and there is also a very good yacht club in 
 existence. 
 
 Very good snipe-shooting is to had in the peat -bogs on the 
 Holland River marsh. You go by rail to Bradford, 38 miles, 
 and within three miles of the station good sport may be had. 
 The marsh is 25 miles long. Above the bridge, on the west 
 branch, birds are always to be found in season. There is 
 plenty of sport all the way up to the forks of the river, five 
 miles distant from Holland Landing, and eight miles from 
 Bradford. / • ,v ., , , 
 
 About the pleasantest trip to take from Toronto is to 
 visit Orillia, a village prettily situated on Lake Couchich- 
 ing, a small lake of about 1 2 miles in length, connected with 
 Lake Simcoe by a narrow channel, called the "Narrows." 
 The scenery on this lake is very romantic. To reach it, 
 you must leave Toronto by the early morning train for 
 Bell-Ewart, on Lake Simcoe, taking the steamer "Emily 
 May," which connects daily with the morning train. The 
 sail on this lake is very pleasant. It is much indented with 
 bays. Cook's inlet at the south, and Kempenfeldt Bay on 
 the north-west, being the largest. On this latter is situated 
 Barrie, sixty-four miles from Toronto, quite a large town. 
 Very fine white fish and maskelong6 are taken in this lake, 
 which in winter is completely frozen over, and passable for 
 sleighs. On its shores may be picked up many beautiful 
 cornelians and agates. It is studded with a number of beau- 
 tiful islands, on one of which, Snake Island, is a small Indian 
 settlement. On the opposite side to Barrie is Beaverton, 
 a pretty village, at the mouth of the Beaver River, where 
 the steamer also touches. But for scenery in its, native 
 
m 
 
 loroHto to Collin^Mood, 
 
 f' 
 
 beauty, wild yet soothing to the eye, — lake, river, hill, rock, 
 and forest, all combined — Orillia is the spot. — to say nothinj^ 
 of the fishing to be had there. This village was first settled 
 by the Indians, but they were subsequently removed to 
 Rama, on the opposite side of the lake. They support 
 themselves principally by hunting and fishing, and the 
 handiwork of the squaws, consisting of birch-bark orna- 
 ments, baskets, &c. The latter are made from the inner 
 rind of the basswood and white ash. They are used greatly 
 by the settlers, being excellent substitutes for wicker-work, 
 though not so durable. A visit to their village is a pleasing 
 change to the traveller. In lake Couchiching there are lots 
 'of good trout and black bass, as well as pike and maskinongti ; 
 and here you may get night-spearing with good success. 
 This is a romantic and exciting sport ; each canoe should con- 
 tain not more than three persons, — one to paddle the others, 
 who are to do the work of execution ; and the flood of light, 
 thrown from the " iron jack" in the bow of the boat, and fed 
 with pine knots, familiarly called "fat pine," or with birch- 
 bark, over the otherwise solemnly dark face of the water, 
 lighting up here and there some scathed trunk on the shore, 
 whose bleached branches give a weird appearance to the 
 scene. The wild shores of a dark lake, with the broad glare 
 of the torch — with one figure noiselessly plying an oar, and 
 the animated attitude of another, relieved against the fire- 
 light and peering into the water, — form a contrast of light 
 and shade that Rembrandt might have envied. There is 
 no diflficulty in getting either boats or accommodations at 
 Orillia, though the latter for a place of such resort are but 
 passable. In the way of birds, especially the larger biids, 
 there are to be found here a great variety. The Bald-headed 
 Eagle, the Duck Hawk, the Snowy Owl, et hoc genus onine, 
 are numerous ; among them, too, is that most mysterious 
 and poetical creature the Loon, or Great Northern Diver, 
 whose mournful and wolfish wailing is so closely identified 
 
Toronto to Collingwood. 
 
 m 
 
 with dark and tranquil waters, and grand old hills, with 
 silence and solitude, whose supposed spirit is feared and 
 venerated by the red men, and whose matted feathers ac- 
 complish so much good in keeping warm the hunters of the 
 north. Here also arc to be found plenty of deer ; these are 
 during the summer months killed when they come into the 
 water at night to cool themselves, or to get away from the 
 flies. You cannot see the deer itself probably, but you will 
 see the light reflected on his eyes, like two balls of fire, as 
 he stands gazing stupefied at the torch, when a well directed 
 shot seldom fails to secure the prize. The deer range 
 through the pine woods at night for the purpose of feeding, 
 remaining hidden in the swamps during the day. They arc 
 more tame in summer than in winter, and are fond of feed- 
 ing upon the young green corn in the clearings. 
 
 In the early part of the spring, generally speaking, about 
 April, large quantities of maple sugar are manufactured in 
 this part of Canada ; and the whole sugar making season is 
 one of festivity. The sudden transition from winter to 
 spring is essential to its production, as the sap is then pass- 
 ing in large quantities from the roots. An incision is made 
 into the tree some three feet from the ground, and the liquid 
 that oozes out is received in a trough or vessel below. When 
 a frosty night is followed by a sunny day, three or four 
 gallons a day may be obtained from a single maple. The 
 Indian* around Lake Couchiching make large quantities of 
 this sugar, and from the very nature of the business, the 
 making of it is carried on in an encampment where the 
 trees are plentiful. The hunting season is at an end, so 
 that the men are there as numerous as the squaws. Huge 
 fires are built in all directions, and over them are suspended 
 every variety of pot, pan and kettle. The men lounge about, 
 the main paft of the work being performed by the females, 
 who not only attend to the kettles, but employ all their 
 leisure time in making the beautiful \i\xQ)BAXi mocticks ox 
 
138 
 
 Toronto to Collingwood. 
 
 cases for the preservation and transportation of the sugar 
 when made. The sap is brought from the trees to the 
 kettles by the boys. The length of the sugar season is 
 dependent on the weather; about three weeks generally 
 being as long as the sap will continue to run. We strongly 
 recommend every traveller in these parts to bring away at 
 least one mocuck of the sugar, both for his own special eating 
 as well as for those of his friends who may be unable to visit 
 these retreats. The Indians have some on hand more or less 
 throughout the summer, and a few fish-hooks are thought 
 more of than money by these children of the forest. The 
 waters of Lake Couchiching discharge themselves by means 
 of the River Severn, through beautiful scenery, into the 
 Georgian Bay ; and if the tourist wishes to extend his trip 
 into the genuine wilderness, he can take the steamer " Fairy," 
 which connects here for the Muskoka Settlement, some 
 forty miles north-east, on a lonely lake of the same name, 
 rich in scenery and sport ; but here he must be prepared to 
 rough it with the lumberer or the pioneer of civilization, who 
 may be clearing for himself literally a home in the wilder- 
 ness ; — must be prepared to satisfy his hunger with salt pork, 
 and at night to be well acquainted with the yielding pro- 
 perties of a pine floor. From Orillia to Penetanguishene 
 the road lies through a thoroughly sylvan country, but this 
 place is well worthy of a visit, as being formerly both a mili- 
 tary and naval station. There is now a reformatory here 
 for juvenile criminals. The village lies on a small arm of 
 the Georgian Bay. The latter, indeed, might almost be 
 considered a separate lake, and not a part of Huron, extend- 
 ing as it does over one hundred miles in length, and being 
 scnarated from the main body of its waters by a range of 
 islands running parallel with its northern shore. There are 
 calculated to be upwards cf 23,000 islands between Notta- 
 wasaga Bay and St„ Marie River. The longest of these is 
 called the great Manitoulin Island, and is viewed by the 
 
Toronto to Collingwood. 
 
 139 
 
 Indians with great awe and reverence, as being the abode of 
 the Great Spirit. The extreme point of the promontory 
 separating the lake from the bay is called Cabot's Head. 
 Towards the eastern extremity of the island, where the width 
 is greatest, two arms of the lake run so far into the land as 
 to approach within three miles of each other, thus forming 
 an isthmus, and nearly divide the island into two parts. On 
 this the large Indian reserve, the numbers of its aboriginal 
 occupants are annually getting thinner, and the day is not 
 far distant when the ploughshare of the Anglo-Saxon will 
 utterly have despoiled these once happy hunting grounds. 
 The land, however, is not very good here, being too stony 
 for arable purposes ; but as pasture land, it is very productive. 
 The village of Penetanguishene is sheltered by hills of sand 
 an.d rolled blocks, bearing evidence of the war of waters, 
 when this part of what is now dry land was covered with the 
 inland sea, upon the surface of which only occasional tops ot 
 mountains and lines of rocky ridges were to be seen like 
 islands studding the vast expanse, as the Manitoulin and its 
 adjacent islets stud the waters to the north. 
 
 Lonely Island, Squaw and Papoose Island, Clapperton, 
 Cockburn, and St. Joseph, are the largest among the islands 
 which lie on the route, none of them remarkable except for 
 the wild scenery of the headlands, and the lofty mountains 
 of the mainland, make an appropriate back-ground. 
 After skirting St. Joseph Island, Campement D'Ours is 
 passed, lying contiguous, where are several rocky islets 
 forming an intricate channel called the Narrows. On these 
 islands are found beautiful specimens of copper ore, and 
 some most exquisite kinds of moss. The trees on these 
 islands are all scrubby and dwarfish, owing, doubtless, to the 
 scantiness of the soil. The whole of this group of islands, 
 forming a perfect archipelago, have all probably been at one 
 time part of the mainland ; but volcanic agency, some mighty 
 convulsion of nature, which seems to have exerted itself with 
 
 M 
 
I40 
 
 Toronto to Collingwood. 
 
 I / 
 
 I 
 
 tremendous effect lor hundreds of miles in this region, and 
 the denuding influence of the elements have placed channels 
 between them, that in some places are widening with every 
 wind that blows, and in others are filling up and forming 
 shoals. The Indians are reported to be harmless and indo- 
 lent, too often neglecting the cultivation of the soil for the 
 more uncertain pursuits of fishing and hunting, although a 
 considerably large clearing is to be seen indifferently culti- 
 vated. 
 
 In a group of islands lying in the Georgian Bay to the 
 north, called La Cloche, a peculiar kind of stone is found, 
 which emits, when struck sharply, a sound like a bell ; this 
 has probably given the name to these islands. Similar stones 
 are found in Scotland, and have been so arranged as to pro- 
 duce different notes in good harmony. 
 
 At about the southernmost portion of the Georgian Bay, 
 in the wide extent of it called Nottawasaga Bay, lies 
 Collingwood, the terminus of the Northern Railway, 94 
 miles from Toronto, and a place of great activity during the 
 summer, whence steamers run for Milwaukee, Chicago, Bruce 
 Mines, Sault St. Marie, Fort- William (one of the Hudson 
 Bay Company's stations), and other ports on Lakes Huron 
 and Superior. A steamer, the " Clifton," also runs to Owen 
 Sound. Ten years ago Collingwood lay only on the maps 
 of Surveyors, and what few houses there were lay in a small 
 pine clearing. Now it is a town, where shipbuilding is 
 carried on, large elevators have been erected for the tran- 
 shipment of grain, and huge quantities of freight to and from 
 the West may be seen piled upon its wharves. Here is a 
 pier 800 feet in length, a break-water, and a light-house. 
 There is nothing in the vicinity to attract attention save a 
 few rocky islets called the Hen and Chickens, and it is not 
 a desirable place to remain in, though good fishing may be 
 had in the waters of the Bay around it. Some idea of the 
 value and extent of the fishing operations promiscuously 
 
 i. I 
 
Collingwood to Samia. 
 
 pursued in Nattawasaga Bay may be formed from the know- 
 ledge that the average daily take exceeds 1,000 fish, weighing 
 from I to 40 lbs. each, and are carried principally to the 
 Toronto market. Most of the larger trout spawn about the 
 islands upon beds of calcareous rock, over which a shifting 
 drift of sand and gravel passes by the action of the waves, 
 where the water is shallow ; and from being exposed to the 
 sun, the temperature of the lake is warmer at these localities 
 than elsewhere. 
 
 The steamers leaving Collingwood for Mackinaw and 
 Chicago are cf a large class, affording good accommodations 
 to travellers. ' ' <' 
 
 : 
 
 FROM COLLINGWOOD TO SARNIA. 
 
 From Collingwood the tourist, if desirous of seeing the 
 beauties of Lake Superior, than which, during the heats of 
 summer, there is no more pleasant tour, can take steamer for 
 Ste. Marie ; we, therefore, will give a cursory description of 
 the scenery on that Lake, which has several remarkable 
 features connected with it. Its waters are so perfectly tran- 
 sparent that they render the rocks at great depths distinctly 
 visible. The temperature of summer is never gained by 
 these waters, they being even at midsummer exceedingly 
 cold. A fathom or two below the surface, it is but a few 
 degrees above the freezing point in August In the western 
 portion the water is much colder than in the eastern — the 
 surface flow becoming warmer as it advances to the outlet. 
 A mirage is of frequent occurrence, occasioned by the 
 difference between the temperature of the air and the lake. 
 Great difficulties are experienced from this cause in making 
 astronomical observations. Lanman states that its water is 
 
14: 
 
 Collingwood to Samia, 
 
 heavier than tnat of Huron, which, in turn, is heavier than 
 Erie, and that a loaded canoe will draw at least two inches 
 more water in Huron than Superior. A healthier region 
 does not exist on the face of the earth, the climate at 
 midsummer is delightful beyond comparison, the air is soft 
 and bracing at the same time, and there is not a single 
 individual who has made this a summer trip, whose breast 
 did not swell with a new emotion as he inhaled the dir of this 
 northern wilderness. 
 
 On the south side of the lake, between Poin:: Keweena.w 
 and the River St. Mary, are the Pictured Rocks, r""ng to an 
 elevation of from 150 to 300 feet high, witloui »n;y beach 
 at their base. To the voyageur coasting along tn his frail 
 canoe, they would at all times be an object of iread ; the 
 recoil of the surf, the rock-bound coast, afford I'g for miles 
 nt) place of refuge. In the appeu'ance 'hey ^ :,sent from 
 their weather-worn aspects, being compos :-.\ of s scft, friable 
 stone, it requires but little aid Irc.n liie im igination to 
 discern in them c cUatcd cowers, spires and pinnacles, and 
 the various forms of ai''^b;iecJ!.Tre. They have been striked 
 with various colours by min- .al drippings, ?.rid fiom this 
 probably has arisen their name. Beautiful caverns meet 
 the eye in every direction, and the water at their base is 
 of a deep green colour, and in many places almost fathom- 
 less close in-shore. U : ■ 
 
 The prevailing tints consist of deep brown, yellow, and 
 gray — burnt sienna and P'rench gray predominating. There 
 are also bright blues and greens, though less frequent. They 
 are not scattered indiscriminately over the surface of the 
 rock, but are arranged in vertical and parallel bands extend- 
 ing to the water's edge. All of the tints are fresh,, brilliant, 
 and distinct, and harmonize admirably with one another, 
 which, taken 'a connection with the grandeur of the arched 
 an .1 :avenied surfaces on which they are laid, the deep and 
 pure green of the water which heaves and swells at the 
 
Collingwood to Sanna. 
 
 143 
 
 leavier than 
 two inches 
 ;hier region 
 climate at 
 i air is soft 
 3t a single 
 lose breast 
 L dir of this 
 
 Keweenaw 
 ^-ng to an 
 •Tiv beach 
 ^'i his frail 
 ireacl ; the 
 f for miles 
 .^ent from 
 k- ft, friable 
 nation to 
 acles, and 
 m striked 
 iom this 
 rns meet . 
 
 base is 
 
 fathom- 
 low, and 
 There 
 It. They 
 2 of the 
 
 extend- 
 brilliant, 
 mother, 
 
 arched 
 2ep and 
 
 at the 
 
 base, and the rich foliage which waves above, produce an 
 effect truly wonderful. The same general arched and broken 
 line of cliffs borders the coast eastward, culminating in Le 
 Grand Portail. This is a vast mass of rock projecting into 
 the lake about 600 feet, and rising to a height of about 200 
 feet. This has been excavated by the action of the water, 
 forming an arch 100 feet in height and 60 feet broad at the 
 water level. A little further on, i" close proximity to Chapel 
 River, is the " Chapel," one of the most grotesque of nature's 
 handiworks. Unlike the other excavations which occur at 
 the water's edge, this has been made in the rock at a height 
 of 30 or 40 feet : it consists of an arched roof of sandstone 
 from 10 to 20 feet in thickness, and rests on four gigantic 
 columns of rocks finely stratified, and which have been worn 
 into curious shapes. At the base of one of them is an arched 
 cavity or niche ; if the whole had been adapted expressly for 
 a place of worship, and fashioned by the hand of man, it could 
 hardly have been arranged more appropriately. Being at 
 such an elevation, this excavation must be referrei.i to a 
 period when the waters of the lake stood at a higher level. 
 
 Those desirous of visiting this scene should take one of 
 the propellers which navigate the lake, and land - jrand 
 Island, from which he can proceed, if the weather ' avour- 
 able, to make the tour of the most interesting points in one 
 day in a small-boat and return. The large vess s on the 
 lake do not approach sufficiently near the cliffs t > allow the 
 traveller to gain more than a general idea of t cr outline 
 and position. To be able to appreciate their character, it is 
 indispensible to coast along in close proximity to the clifl's, 
 and pass beneath the Grand Portal, which is only accessible 
 from the Lake, and to land and enter within the precincts of 
 the Chapel. At Grand Island, boats, men, and provisions 
 may be secured without any difficulty. The islanc! itself is 
 wild and romantic ; the cliffs of sandstone, irregular and 
 broken into by the waves, form picturesque caverns, pillars, 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 i |;l 
 
144 
 
 Collingwood to Sarnia. 
 
 % : I,: 
 
 \ 
 
 } 
 
 V, 
 
 r 
 
 and arches of immense dimensions. There are several 
 romantic bays and inlets, protected from storms — which arc 
 frequent in the vicinity, — where the brook trout arc to be 
 taken of a large size. The forests on it also afford a delight- 
 ful retreat, while all nature seems hushed — save by the 
 moaning winds a,nd billowy surges of the surrounding 
 waters. The distance from William's on the island to the 
 Chapel is about fifteen miles. 
 
 Near the western extremity of the lake are the Twelve 
 Apostles' Islands, which are evidently only detachments 
 of a peninsula known as La Pointe, rising from lOO to 200 
 feet above the waters, most of them clothed with a rich 
 foliage of forest trees. The waters around them teem with 
 white fish, trout, and ciscovet, which do not appear to 
 diminish after years of extensive fishing. For trout and 
 ciscovet, which are to b*^: ':aken with a line in deep water, the 
 best ground of the neighbourhood is off Bark Point or Point 
 " Ecorce," of the French. There is a dreamy summer beauty 
 about these islands when everything else in summer is hot 
 and glarin,;, wnich gives one a wish to linger around them. 
 
 \3ar ihcni is another cluster of pictured rocks, but only 
 about 100 iect high, composed of a deep sandstone. The 
 arches here are almost numberless, and exceedingly pictur- 
 erque ; ^vhile from the caverns, "even in a calm," there 
 issues a sound like thunder, which must be terrific when a 
 storm is raging. The two most prominent peninsulas on 
 the north shore are called Thunder Cape and Cariboo Point. 
 The former is about 1400 feet high, and frowns upon the 
 waste of waters like a crouching lion, which animal it closely 
 resembles in its outline. Cariboo Point is less lofty, but is 
 fai-famed on account of the hieroglyphics which have been 
 painted u{)on its brow, in years gone by, by an Indian race 
 now supposed to be extinct. In the vicinity of these blufi's 
 are found large and beautiful agates. The Canadian shore 
 abounds in rocky islands, but there is only one deserving of 
 
 ej 
 ci 
 m 
 
Collingivood to Samia. 
 
 m 
 
 ■■ are several 
 s — which are 
 out are to be 
 Orel a delight- 
 ■save by the 
 surrounding 
 island to the 
 
 the Twelve 
 
 detachments 
 
 1 100 to 200 
 
 with a rich 
 
 m teem with 
 
 )t appear to 
 
 3r trout and 
 
 2p water, the 
 
 3int or Point 
 
 nmer beauty 
 
 mmer is hot 
 
 ound them. 
 
 ks, but only 
 
 stone. The 
 
 ngly pictur- 
 
 alm," there 
 
 ific when a 
 
 linsulas on 
 
 riboo Point. 
 
 s upon the 
 
 al it closely 
 
 ofty, but is 
 
 have been 
 
 ndian race 
 
 hesc blufils 
 
 diau shore 
 
 ^serving of 
 
 particular notice, called Manitou Island. It lies in the north- 
 east part of the lake, and is undoubtedly the greatest natural 
 curiosity in this wilderness. It is about twenty miles from the 
 mainland, and about twelve in circumference. The shores are 
 of sandstone, and for the most part rise abruptly from the 
 water to the height of 400 or 500 feet. But the wonder is, 
 that in the centre of this island lies embosomed one of the 
 most beautiful lakes imaginable. It is about a mile long, and 
 the perpendicular cliffs which look down upon it are not less 
 than 600 or 700 feet high. It has an outlet which is impas- 
 sable ibr a canoe, on account of the rocks and trees that 
 have blocked up the narrow chasm ; and at the opening of 
 this outlet stands a column of solid rock whirh is estimated 
 to be 800 feet high. The base is prr'xii^ly 100 feet in 
 diameter, and it gradually tapers off to aboctc twenty feet in 
 thickness, while the summit of this singular needle is sur- 
 mounted by a solitary pine. The lake is so hidden from the 
 outer world, that the passing breeze scarcely ever ruffles its 
 bosom, and the silence which reigns there, even at noon-day, 
 is intense. The lake seems to be destitute of fish, and the 
 island of animals ; but gulls of every variety and in immense 
 numbers hover about. The entire island is composed of 
 rocky material, and probably the scene of great volcanic 
 action ; it is everywhere covered with a stunted vegetation. 
 It is called by the Indians Manitou Island, and is held in 
 great awe by them, being the supposed abode of their 
 Great Spirit. The traveller through this region will find 
 but little use for his gun on the lake, as water-fowl are 
 not abundant, for the reason that the rocky bottom of the 
 lake affords no plants to supply them with food ; but he may 
 bring with him a quantity of fishin;^^ tackle, and his brightest 
 anticipations with regard to angling will be realized. Of the 
 game on the land to be found here, there are plenty of bears 
 and elk, and a few deer ; of the smaller animals, almost every 
 northern variety may'be found. 
 
146 
 
 Colling'wood to Harma. 
 
 ili 
 
 ii 
 
 I 
 
 , The largest island in Lake Superior belongs to the United 
 States, and is called Isle Royal. It is forty miles long, and 
 varies from six to ten in width. The northern side is bold 
 and rocky, but the southern has a number of fine oays and 
 natural harbours, noted for their superior fishing grounds. 
 All along the northern shore at intervals may be seen a line 
 of the smoothest beach, as if for the very purpose of affording 
 protection to the voyaging Indians when exposed to the 
 dangers of sudden storms, to which this lake is very subject. 
 About 100 miles from Sault St. Marie is Michipicoton 
 Island, containing two rich mines — one of copper and the 
 other of silver, — which are being very successfully worked. 
 The formation of this island and the adjacent coast is granite, 
 greenstone, porphyry, and sienite, presenting a beautiful 
 appearance. Near the small harbour of the island the land 
 rises 700 feet perpendicularly from the lake, and in Nipeegon 
 Bay, near by, it attains the height of 1000 feet, frowning 
 perpendicularly on the cold black water at its base. 
 
 The Cascade of La Portaille, on the south shore, is a 
 stream which precipitates itself from a height of 70 feet by 
 a single leap into the lake to such a distance that a boat may 
 pass between the fall and the rock perfectly dry. The sand- 
 stone of the rock has been worn away by the ceaseless action 
 of the water to such a degree that the superincumbent mass 
 rests upon massive arches, and is intersected in every 
 direction by caverns. No wonder that where nature has 
 been so lavish with her handiwork, every headland on Lake 
 Superior, and every river running into it, should be hallowed 
 in Indian story by some wild legend. 
 
 All the hills and mountains surrounding this immense 
 lake abound in valuable minerals, of which copper in every 
 form is the most abundant ; native silver is also found there, 
 but the resources of this section of the country are not yet 
 developed. One fact will strike the traveller at once on 
 nearing the mining districts, viz., that al) the men, women, 
 
Collingwood to Sarnia. 
 
 147 
 
 the United 
 5 long, and 
 ide is bold 
 2 oays and 
 J grounds, 
 seen a line 
 tf affording 
 sed to the 
 !ry subject. 
 
 HIPICOTON 
 
 vc and the 
 ly worked. 
 
 is granite, 
 L beautiful 
 id the land 
 
 Nipeegon 
 , frowning 
 
 hore, is a 
 70 feet by 
 
 boat may 
 The sand- 
 less action 
 bent mass 
 
 in every 
 ature has 
 I on Luke 
 
 hallowed 
 
 immense 
 r in every 
 -ind there, 
 e not yet 
 : once on 
 1, women, 
 
 and children, without exception, have been crystallized into 
 finished geologists. The bi )kcn-down merchant, selling 
 whisky to the poor miner, strokes his huge whiskers, and 
 descants upon the black oxydc, the native ore, and the peculiar 
 formation of each hill-side. The great word in vogue among 
 them is "conglomerate," and this term is applied to every- 
 thing indiscriminately as a verb, adjective, noun or epithet. 
 It matters not how limited their knowledge of English may 
 be, " conglomerate" will leak out in some way or other. 
 
 The tributary rivers and streams, though none of them 
 are large, pour into the lake a greater volume of water than 
 what forms its exit at the only outlet — the Falls of St. Mary, 
 or, as it is more particularly known, Sault Ste. Marie. 
 This, probably, is owing to the immense evaporation going 
 on, and which would be much greater were it not for the 
 dense covering of wood and the long continuance of frost in 
 this region. The surplus waters of the lake enter near its 
 south-eastern extremity, into St. Mary's channel, which, 
 opposite the village of the same name, is about two miles 
 wide, rushing over a ledge of rocks in great fury, and presents 
 for the distance of nearly a mile a perfect sheet of foam. 
 The entire height of the Sault is about 30 feet ; the want of 
 elevation on either side has permitted the formation of a 
 number of islets, divided by channels, which are narrow 0:1 
 the left, but widen on the right hand. After the waters have 
 expressed, in a murmuring roar, their unwillingness to leave 
 the bosom of Superior, they finally hush themselves to sleep, 
 and glide onward, as if in a dream, among the picturesque 
 shores of a lonely country until they mingle with the waters 
 of Lake Huron. The village of Sault Ste. Marie, on the 
 Canada side, is a scattered settlement, where is located a 
 port of the Hudson Bay Company. Indians of the Chip- 
 pewa tribe reside in the vicinity in considerable numbers, 
 they having the exclusive right to take fish in the waters 
 contiguous to the rapids. They also employ themselves in 
 
 ^' 
 
148 
 
 Colling'ivood to Saniia. 
 
 running the rapids in their frail canoes, when desired by 
 strangers. The town of Sault Ste. Marie, on the American 
 side, opposite to the one above described, is celebrated for 
 the Ship Canal, connecting the navigation of Superior with 
 the lower lakes, which, though only one mile in length, cost 
 one million dollars. 
 
 The principal fish of this region are trout and white fish, 
 which are here found in their greatest perfection. Of the 
 trout, the largest species is called the lake trout, varying 
 from lo to to lbs. in weight. Their flesh is similar to the 
 salmon in appearance, but not as delicious. The Indians 
 have a mode of taking them in the winter through the ice, 
 which is very successful. Orer the hole they cut, they erect 
 a wigwam, in which they seat themselves for action ; and 
 attaching a piece of meat to a cord, which they pull up and 
 down for the purpose of attracting the trout, they pick 
 out the unsuspecting victim with a spear. An ■ idian has 
 been known to catch looo lbs.' weight thus in one day. The 
 trout of this section of the country consist of not only the 
 common lake or salmon-trout, but also, and which is most 
 numerous, the mackinaw trout, or namaycush of the Indians, 
 or longe ; it is the trout found in most of our small northern 
 lakes. It is exceedingly voracious, and has been known to 
 attain the weight of 1 20 lbs. " When the steamer," says 
 Lanman, " runs into the crescent-shaped harbour of Macki- 
 naw, the visitor, when he discovers among the people on the 
 deck some half-dozen wheelbarrows laden with fish four feet 
 long, and weighing fifty and sixty pounds, must not be 
 alarmed at finding those fish to be Mackinaw trout, and not 
 sturgeon, as he might at first have imagined." The very size 
 of these fish is an objection to them, for, as they have to be 
 taken in deep water, and with a large cord, there is far more 
 of manual labour than of sport in the capture of them. There 
 is also a fish of the trout genus, peculiar to these waters, called 
 the ciscovct, which is delicious. At the Sault, the common 
 
Collinjnuood to Saniia. 
 
 149 
 
 esired by 
 American 
 Drated for 
 srior with 
 ngth, cost 
 
 vhitc fish, 
 
 . Of the 
 
 :, varying 
 
 lar to the 
 
 e Indians 
 
 ;h the ice, 
 
 they erect 
 
 tion ; and 
 
 ill up and 
 
 they pick 
 
 idian has 
 
 day. The 
 
 t only the 
 
 is most 
 
 Indians, 
 
 northern 
 
 novvn to 
 
 ler," says 
 
 f Macki- 
 
 )le on the 
 
 four feet 
 
 t not be 
 
 , and not 
 
 very size 
 
 ive to be 
 
 far more 
 
 There 
 
 rs, called 
 
 common 
 
 trout, varying from looz. to 40 oz. in weight, abound, and what 
 is remarkable, arc in season all through the year — a matter 
 not yet fathomed by naturalists, though probably the constant 
 icy coldness of the waters has much to do with it. The best 
 places in which to fish are at the foot of the rapids, casting 
 anchor from a canoe where the water is about 10 or 15 feet 
 deep, though, owing to its marvellous clearness, seeming not 
 more than three, and where the bed of the river is covered 
 with snow-white rocks. A fly or an artificial minnow is the 
 best bait ; with such you need never be disappointed in 
 catching a fine assortment. To pass a few hours in a canoe 
 anchored midway between the American and Canadian 
 shores, now looking with wonder at the wall of foam between 
 you and the mighty lake ; now gazing upon the dreamy- 
 looking scenery stretching on either side, and far down the 
 river ; and anon peering into the clear water to watch the 
 movements of the trout as they dart from the shady side of 
 one rock to another, — to enjoy all this in a July or August 
 day, away from city life and cares, is a treat that can only be 
 realized, never described. In the village of Ste. Marie accom- 
 modations and boats can be had, and a stranger is hailed in 
 this lonely country with a welcome seldom evinced in a more 
 frequented resort. Two or three miles from the village are 
 two streams called Carp River and Dead River, which also 
 afford capital trout-fishing ; but the black flies and mosquitoes 
 are intolerable on both of them. The white fish, the ciscovct, 
 and the lake trout are an article of export from this region, 
 and there is no doubt that the fisheries here will eventually 
 become quite extensive. 
 
 Some 36 miles below Ste. Marie, and opposite the lower 
 end of the island of St. Joseph, is the village of Bruce 
 Mines, the property of the Montreal Mining Company, and 
 a very thriving place ; this island is a frontier station for the 
 British, and Drummond Island, hard by, for the American 
 troops. Some of the ores obtained from the Bruce 'mines 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGCT (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
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 UUU 
 
 mil 1.8 
 
 
 1-25 1.4 ||.6 
 
 
 « 6" 
 
 ► 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sdences 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 873-4S03 
 
^ ^ 
 
 ^ .r^. 
 
 
 
 h 
 
 ;\ 
 
 \ 
 
 
ISO 
 
 Collingwood to Sarnia. 
 
 1' 
 
 1 ! 
 
 are very beautiful to the eye, resembling fine gold. Some 
 200 or 300 men are employed, all from European mines. 
 After being taken out of the shafts, which are twelve in 
 number, the ores are taken to the crushing-house, where 
 they are passed between large iron rollers, and sifted till 
 only a fine powder remains ; from thence to the " jigger"- 
 works, where they are shaken in water, till much of the 
 earthy matter is washed away, a'.ter which it is piled in the 
 yard ready for shipment, having more the appearance of 
 mud than copper. It is mostly shipped to Swansea, in 
 Wales, for smelting. To the south-west, laved by the waters 
 from Superior, and touching the edge of Huron and Michigan, 
 lies the beautiful island of Mackinaw, which has given its 
 name to these straits. All the Detroit and Chicago steamers 
 stop here in passing to and fro, and usually tarry time enough 
 for their passengers to take a cursory glance over the island. 
 The scenery here is romantic in the extreme, and it has four 
 natural curiosities, either one of which would give a reputa- 
 tion to any ordinary island, viz.. Arched Rock, which faces 
 the north, rising from the water to the height of nearly 200 
 feet — a superb piece of wave-formed architecture, appearing, 
 as you look through it, like the gateway to a new world. 
 Robinson's Folly, a picturesque bluff, also on the north 
 shore, taking its name from the summer residence of an 
 English tourist, which he would persist in building here, 
 despite the warnings of the Indians, and which was swept 
 with its occupant one night of tempest into the deep below. 
 On the western shore is the Cave of Skulls, where, 
 according to tradition, a party of Sioux were murdered by 
 the Ottavras 100 years ago. This is corroborated by Henry 
 the traveller, who, having to take refuge here after the mas- 
 sacre of Mackinack, found himself next morning " reclining 
 on a bed of human bones." The other curiosity is called 
 The Needle, or Sugar Loaf ; it is a lighthouse-looking 
 rock, overlooking the entire island, and throwing its shadow 
 
Collingwood to Samia. 
 
 iSi 
 
 lid. Some 
 ean mines. 
 ; twelve in 
 •use, where 
 
 1 sifted till 
 
 2 "jigger"- 
 uch of the 
 piled in the 
 learance of 
 wansea, in 
 ■ the waters 
 I Michigan, 
 :s given its 
 fo steamers 
 me enough 
 • the island. 
 
 it has four 
 e a reputa- 
 vhich faces 
 nearly 200 
 appearing, 
 lew world, 
 the north 
 nee of an 
 ding here, 
 was swept 
 eep below. 
 -LS, where, 
 Lirdered by 
 by Henry 
 :r the mas- 
 reclining 
 y is called 
 ise-looking 
 its shadow 
 
 upon the ruins of Fort HolmcSy which are now almost level 
 with the ground, and overgrown with weeds. From this 
 point of elevation, the scenery is extensive and beautiful. 
 Looking westwards is Point St. Ignace, the southernmost 
 portion of the upper peninsula of Michigan. Immediately 
 south of it are the straits, about four miles wide. Turning 
 our gaze to the south-east, we see the picturesque " Round 
 Island," as it were, at our feet. Look to the east, and there 
 lies the mighty Lake Huron. Directly north from our place 
 of observation are the " Islands of St. Martin," while beyond 
 them, in the bay, are two large rivers — the Pine and Carp, — 
 which afford abundance of large-sized brook trout. And, 
 lastly, casting our eyes to the north-west, we see on the 
 mainland the two " Sitting Rabbits," — two singular-looking 
 hills or rocks, so called by the Indians from their resem- 
 blance at a distance to the animals in question. The 
 scene from here by moonlight is peculiarly beautiful ; out 
 on the lake in the direction of the moon, a broad road or 
 pathway of light trembling upon its bosom. A few sails of 
 small-boats, trying to catch the evening breeze, pass and 
 repass ; the vocgl song is raised on the waters, and woman's 
 voice borne on moonlight beams to the listening ear, clearer 
 and stronger as the boats approach near, then, again, dying 
 away in the distance, they seem to merge into the mellow 
 rays of the moon. And while contemplating this scene, 
 perhaps a dark column of smoke, like the Genii in the 
 Arabian Tales, may be seen rising slowly out of the bosom 
 of Lake Huron, announcing the approach of the Genii of 
 modern days — the steamboat. 
 
 Mackinaw, during the season of navigation, is one of the 
 busiest little places in the world. But in winter, it is com- 
 pletely isolated and ice-bound. From having been the 
 Indians' congregating place, it will soon be a fashionable 
 resort for summer travellers. Its peculiar location, pic- 
 turesque scenery, and the tonic character of its climate, are 
 
Collingwood to Sarnia. 
 
 I ;i 
 
 P 
 
 destined to make it one of the most attractive watering 
 places in the Great West. The roads or streets that wind 
 around the harbour or among the grove-Hke forests of the 
 island are naturally pebbled and macadamized ; the buildings 
 are of every style, from an Indian lodge to a substantial 
 English house. There are several large hotels, with atten- 
 tive hosts, ever ready to contribute towards the comforts of 
 their visitors. There are billiard-rooms and bowling alleys ; 
 in the stores are to be obtaiLed Indian curiosities ; and the 
 Indians themselves who resort to the island, may be ranked as 
 curiosities to those who have never before seen them. Taking 
 steamer here either for Sarnia or Goderich, on our return, we 
 enjoy a lovely sail down Lake Huron, the Canadian side of 
 which forms one of the finest portions of Araeiica. The tract 
 of land called the Huron District, being the north-western 
 part of Canada West, is extremely fertile, and watered by 
 numberless streams, insomuch that in a tract south-east of 
 Goderich, within a space of 30 miles, eighty-seven rivers and 
 brooks take their rise, or nearly three to a mile. Yet the 
 whole southern portion of Lake Huron is deficient in good 
 harbours, the principal ones being Goderich and Saugeen. 
 Long sand bars are found across the mouths of the streams, 
 and this is especially noticeable at Aux Sables, the river 
 running parallel to Lake Huron for eleven miles, the space 
 between being only a sand bar. Geologists tells us the 
 cause of this is, that the prevailing wind, being from the 
 north-west, inclines the stream in the opposite direction at 
 its mouth, so that the waves of the lake being neutralized by 
 the force of the current, the sand or mud contained in both 
 naturally deposits itself in the still water. In the north-east 
 centre of this section of the country is an extensive swamp 
 of about 30 miles in length, lying on the very highest land 
 in the district, which feeds most of the streams that run in 
 either direction. This swamp is wonderfully productive of 
 cranberries, and quite a traffic is carried on in that article, 
 
\re watering 
 s that wind 
 rests of the 
 le buildings 
 substantial 
 with atten- 
 comforts of 
 ling alleys ; 
 ;s ; and the 
 )e ranked as 
 em. Taking 
 r return, we 
 iian side of 
 . The tract 
 rth-western 
 watered by 
 •uth-east of 
 
 rivers and 
 Yet the 
 :nt in good 
 1 Saugeen. 
 he streams, 
 , the river 
 , the space 
 ills us the 
 
 from the 
 lirection at 
 itralized by 
 led in both 
 north-east 
 ive swamp 
 ghest land 
 that run in 
 ^ductive of 
 lat article, 
 
 Collingwood to Sarnia. 
 
 153 
 
 which commands a high price in the markets of the United 
 States. The long peninsula stretching out between Lake 
 Huron and the Georgian Bay, terminating in Cabofs Head, 
 is an Indian reserve, where are some promising Indian 
 settlements ; but it seems a difficult matter for the children 
 of the forest to settle down at all to cultivate land, or practise 
 the arts of civilization. The whole shore, with the exception 
 oi the two or three harbours alluded to, is very bold and 
 precipitous, with scarcely any beach at its base. What little 
 beach there is to be found is very gravelly, and the surf 
 beats upon it as violently as if it were the ocean itself, and 
 not a tributary reservoir. Storms are apt to rise on this 
 lake very suddenly, and from the great depth of its waters, 
 the waves attain a fearful size. Luckily the vessels in such 
 case can run into Goderich or Port Sarnia for shelter. 
 
 GoDERicH, 140 miles from Toronto, situated at the mouth 
 of the Maitland River, having a good natural harbour, and, 
 being one of the western termini of the Grand Trunk Rail- 
 way, offers great facilities for the transportation of goods and 
 grain to and from the West and North-Western States via 
 Chicago and Milwaukee. It is itself surrounded with a fine 
 wheat-growing country, which, together with the lake 
 fisheries, has materially helped the prosperity of that thriv- 
 ing town. Being situated on a high bank, 150 feet above 
 the level of Lake Huron, refreshed at all times by cooling 
 breezes, Goderich requires only to be known to become a 
 pleasant watering-place. All the streams in the vicinity 
 abound with brook trout, and are easy of access, good 
 carriage-roads extending in every direction ; and boats can 
 be had for lake-fishing without any difficulty. The railway 
 here connects with steamers for Chicago, Saginaw, Kincar- 
 dine, Saugeen, and the fishing islands of the Georgian Bay. 
 About ten miles distant, on the Bayfield River, is Climon, 
 a small village with lovely scenery around it, and good trout 
 fishing in abundance ; also, excellent shooting, such as 
 
IS4 
 
 Collingwood to Sarnia. 
 
 partridge, snipe, plover, and quail — the latter are very 
 numerous here, and afford excellent sport. At Wingham, 
 some 20 miles distant, deer and bears are numerous, mink, 
 fisher, racoon, &c. Wild-cats are found in the cedar swamps, 
 and beaver and otter are numerous. All along the Bayfield 
 River beaver meadows are numerous, which give it a beauti- 
 ful appearance, much resembling English river scenery. 
 
 Proceeding down the lake, nothing of note occurs except 
 passing the mouth of the River Aux Sables, before alluded 
 to, till we reach Sarnia, a small town, the terminus of the 
 Sarnia branch of the Great Western Railway, as well as a 
 station of the Grand Trunk, which terminates at Point 
 Edward, two miles distant, connecting with the Detroit 
 branch by means of steam-ferry to Port Huron, directly 
 opposite. Sarnia is situated at the head of the River St. 
 Clair, near the confluence of Lake Huron, at the extreme 
 southern part of the lake, which is known as Gratiot's Bay. 
 The St. Clair River here is one mile in width, flowing down- 
 ward with a current of about six miles an hour. A mile and 
 a half north on the American shore is Fort Gratiot, built in 
 1 8 14, at the close of the war, fully commanding the entrance 
 to Lake Huron, and is quite a landmark to mariners. In 
 both a military and commercial point of view, this place 
 attracts considerable attention. A ferry-boat plies here 
 across the river, which is only about 1,000 feet wide, and 
 runs with considerable velocity. During the season of 
 navigation, hundreds of vessels of every description pass 
 weekly on their way east and west. These vessels arc taken 
 through by steam-tugs, so that every day may be seen 
 from this stand-point a miniature fleet on Lake Huron. 
 Here, also, is a large fishing establishment, where, on an 
 average, 1000 barrels of fish per annum are packed. Port 
 Huron is at the mouth of the Black River, which, running 
 through a pine country, brings down large quantities of logs 
 annually, employing eight steam saw-mills in this place 
 
 alo 
 pe 
 
 
Lake St Clair. 
 
 155 
 
 :er arc very 
 
 it WiNGHAM, 
 
 leroiis, mink, 
 edar swamps, 
 the Bayfield 
 e it a beauti- 
 scenery. 
 (cciirs except 
 cfore alluded 
 minus of the 
 as well as a 
 ;cs at Point 
 the Detroit 
 ron, directly 
 ^e River St. 
 the extreme 
 ratiot's Bay. 
 owing down- 
 
 A mile and 
 itiot, built in 
 the entrance 
 larincrs. In 
 i^, this place 
 t plies here 
 
 t wide, and 
 p season of 
 ription pass 
 ;Is are taken 
 lay be seen 
 akc Muron. 
 here, on an 
 kcd. Port 
 ich, running 
 :itics of logs 
 this place 
 
 alone. In the township of Sarnia is a settlement of Chip- 
 pewa Indians, who reside in small log or bark houses of their 
 own erection, and employ their time, when not engaged in 
 lumbering or rafting, in the more precarious pursuit of game 
 and furs. 
 
 LAKE ST. CLAIR. 
 
 Lake Huron pours out its surplus waters at this southern 
 extremity, carrying in that direction the great chain of com- 
 munication by the River St. Clair. This river, which has 
 nothing remarkable about it, except the fertility of the 
 country through which it flows, expands into Lake St. Clair, 
 is about 26 miles long, and nearly the same in breadth. It 
 is a very shallow lake, but through it a ship-channel is cut, 
 and kept clear yearly, by dredging machines, from the 
 quickly accumulating alluvial deposit the river brings down. 
 The river discharges itself into the lake through six mouths, 
 each of them running lazily through long flats of mud, 
 clothed with a thick growth of every kind of aquatic and 
 swamp plant, whose roots, matting together, hold the mass 
 fast, and just make a consistency sufficient for the sportsman 
 to stand on, though the whole quivers and shakes with every 
 step. As may be inferred, the St. Clair flats afford one of, 
 if not the finest duck-shooting ground in the world ; there, 
 also, may be found the trumpeter swan, the teal, the mallard, 
 the canvass-back, the wood-duck, curlew, snipe, plover, and 
 the birds of prey that invariably hover round these delicious 
 morsels. But, as the best shooting is to be had when the 
 stormy weather has set in, the hunter must be a true disciple 
 of St. Hubert ; must be fortified against malaria, ague, and 
 swamp fever ; must be prepared to see no bed and enter no 
 
156 
 
 Lake St. Clair. 
 
 I i. 
 
 house from the time of entering the flats till, satiated with 
 sport, he reluctantly turns the boat's head towards the set- 
 tlements ; running the boat, always a flat-bottomed one, up 
 at night on a bank of sedge, where the fire is built and the 
 meal prepared, he cats with a zest unknown to the denii:en 
 of the town ; having supped, he inhales the fragrance of bis 
 Indian weed, and prepares for the early dawn somewhat as 
 follows : lie dons a thick flannel guernsey, two pairs of socks 
 and easy shoes, a warm long-waisted vest, and an oil-cloth 
 fisherman's coat at his side for any emergency. For his 
 arms, he has two single-barrelled duck guns, one loaded with 
 Eley's green wire cartridge, 4 oz. weight of B.B., the other 
 v/ith loose shot, No. 40, capped with military caps. He sees 
 his traps all bestowed in the boat ; sees that it is clean and 
 empty, that the sedge or rushes at the bottom of it are dry, 
 and then takes advantage of his last contrivance for comfort. 
 This consists of a bag six feet long by three wide of buftalo 
 robe (fur inside), covered with drabbcd oil-cloth on the out- 
 side, and provided with a running string at the mouth ; 
 getting into this, he ensconces himself up to the armpits, 
 reclines himself calmly on his back ; is towed to the ap- 
 pointed ground, and then, covered with sedge or reeds, lies 
 perdu, with his anchored stools or decoy-ducks around him, 
 nor moves, even to tremble with cold — for that he feels not, — 
 nor gives any sound or sign of life, except when the wedgy 
 squadrons sweep down, heavy flapping, to their wooden 
 congeners, haronking\i.2xA by his ambush, — when he springs 
 up erect on his nether man, and pours in with redoubled 
 roar the scattering volleys, which fill the air with fluttering 
 feathers, — falling birds. 
 
 To give some idea of the sport to be obtained on these 
 flats, the following extract from the Toronto Leader, of 
 November i860, speaks for itself: — "Captain Strachan and 
 Mr. Kennedy returned last evening from a fortnight's shoot- 
 ing in the St. Clair marshes, where they had excellent sport, 
 
Saniia to Toronto. 
 
 157 
 
 satiated with 
 
 ^artls the set- 
 
 omed one, up 
 
 bulk and the 
 
 ) the denii:en 
 
 grance ol" liis 
 
 somewhat as 
 
 pairs oi' socks 
 
 J an oil-cloth 
 
 icy. For his 
 
 e loaded with 
 
 .B., the other 
 
 ips. He sees 
 
 t is clean and 
 
 of it are dry, 
 
 e for comfort. 
 
 ide of buftalo 
 
 1 on the out- 
 
 the mouth ; 
 
 the armpits, 
 
 1 to the ap- 
 
 or reeds, lies 
 
 around him, 
 
 e feels not, — 
 
 n the wedgy 
 
 leir wooden 
 
 :n he springs 
 
 h redoubled 
 
 th fluttering 
 
 led on these 
 Leader, of 
 trachan and 
 ight's shoot- 
 ellent sport, 
 
 bagging, to the two guns, two swans, three snipe, five wild 
 geese, and five hundred and seventy ducks (black, mallard, 
 and gray), — weight, i,86olbs," 
 
 Again, the Essex Record, of the same date, says that 
 " Rob Renardson has just returned with two others from a 
 shooting expedition at Baptiste Creek. They have bagged 
 sixteen hundred ducks, two bugle swans (one weighing 35 
 and the other 40 lbs.), besides a variety of smaller game." 
 
 After such statements as the above, further comment is 
 unnecessary. Such sport may be called — sport in earnest. 
 
 FROM SARNIA TO TORONTO. 
 
 The principal of the islands at the mouth of the St. Clair 
 River are Walpole and St. Anne's ; all to the west of the 
 former belong to the United States, The channel separat- 
 ing them from tho mainland is called " Ecarte," and that 
 running betwixt them, "Johnson's Channel." Walpole 
 Island, about ten miles long, and fiom three to four wide, is 
 occupied by parties of Chippewa, Ottawa, and Pottawatomie 
 Indians, the settlement having been formed by a Colonel 
 McKoe, to whom the Indians gave the name of " White 
 Elk." At tne south-western extremity of the lake is Peach 
 Island, or He la Peche, the home of the celebrated Indian 
 chief Pontiac, now used as a fishing station. Lake St. Clair 
 receives several rivers, the principal of which are the Thames 
 and the Great Bear River. The former winds for more than 
 100 miles through the richest and most fertile part of Canada, 
 on whose banks are situated London, Chatham, and several 
 other thriving places. From Lake St. Clair issues the 
 Detroit River, a spacious stream celebrated for its beauty 
 
 i I' 
 
158 
 
 Sarma to Toronto. 
 
 
 and the fertile country on its banks, but, like its upper 
 waters, extremely shallow. At its head lie the towns of 
 Sandwich and Windsor, opposite to Detroit, the central 
 point of the Michigan Railways, and three miles below is 
 Fighting Island, used mostly for grazing, from the rich 
 growth of natural hay found there. After a course of 26 
 miles the Detroit opens into the grand expanse of Lake 
 Erie, remarkable for several projecting promontories, chief 
 of which are Pt. Pelee and Long Point. Near the exit of 
 the river, opposite to Amherstburg, where is a famed chaly- 
 beate spring, whose waters are said to resemble those of 
 Cheltenham, lies the long, narrow Bois Blanc Island, for- 
 merly well wooded, but whose timber was cut down during 
 the insurrection of '37-8, that the forts might better com- 
 mand the channel on the American side. On the island are 
 three block-houses, and on the south point is a light-house, 
 commanding a fine view of Lake Erie. The country along 
 the whole length of the Detroit River bears a striking resem- 
 blance to Lower Canada. For twenty or thirty miles are to 
 be seen the village form of settlement, the neat church and 
 the habitant. The country is very picturesque, the banks, 
 unlike the St. Clair, high and cultivated, and the eye every- 
 where rests upon fertile fields, well-stocked gardens and 
 orchards, where the finest grapes, peaches, apples and pears 
 grow in profusion. 
 
 The whole of this section ofthe country was made histori- 
 cally memorable in the war of 18 12 and the insurrection of 
 '37. During the former General Hull crossed over from 
 Detroit with 2,500 men, and invited the inhabitants to join 
 his standard. The British force on the frontier was nominal, 
 and could offer little or no resistance ; but General Brock, 
 hastening westwards from Toronto, caused him to retreat 
 from Amherstburg across the river, and shut himself up in 
 Detroit, where, on the approach ofthe assaulting British foe, 
 he showed both the white flag and white feather, surrender- 
 
Saniia to Toronto. 
 
 159 
 
 : its upper 
 e towns of 
 he central 
 es below is 
 
 1 the rich 
 )urse of 26 
 e of Lake 
 ories, chief 
 the exit of 
 med chaly- 
 le those of 
 Island, for- 
 3wn during 
 Detter com- 
 
 2 island are 
 light-house, 
 Lintry along 
 king resem- 
 miles are to 
 church and 
 
 the banks, 
 
 eye every- 
 
 irdens and 
 
 and pears 
 
 ade histori- 
 rrection of 
 
 over from 
 ints to join 
 as nominal, 
 iral Brock, 
 to retreat 
 uself up in 
 British foe, 
 
 surrender- 
 
 ing the whole of his force. In the year following, the British 
 General Proctor was defeated here, and the Indians, fighting 
 on his side, sustained the loss of their Chief, Tecumseh, 
 distinguished for his bravery and eloquence. The main 
 object of his life had been to unite his followers in a grand 
 confederacy against the Americans. General Proctor was 
 compelled to retreat to Burlington Heights, where he could 
 only rally 200 men. In 1837-8, a party of insurgents seized 
 Fighting Island, and made ostentatious preparations for 
 remaining there. No sooner, however, did the troops ap- 
 proach them than they hurried away, leaving behind them 
 their arms and stores. Ensconcing themselves afterwards 
 in Pt. Pelee Island, they were thtn compelled either to fight 
 or surrender. Preferring the former, there was a sharp 
 resistance, but most of the insurgents were slain or taken 
 prisoners. Another invasion from Detroit was made at 
 Sandwich, when the barracks and a steamer were fired, and 
 several persons killed in cold blood, till attacked by Colonel 
 Prince, the invaders were completely routed, and such ring- 
 leaders as were taken were executed, thus putting a stop to 
 these frontier invasions. . . . - 
 
 From Windsor, the terminus of the Great Western Rail- 
 way, between which place and Detroit three steam-ferries 
 are constantly plying, the traveller can take rail to London, 
 passing Chatham, the head of navigation on the Thames for 
 vessels of any siz and where numerous lake craft have been 
 built, the greatest part of the distance lying along the valley 
 of the Thames River, through a rich agricultural district, 
 Midway between Chatham and Sarnia is the village of Oil 
 Springs, in the Enniskillen district, a large and thriving 
 place, only laid out in 1 860, and owing its foundation and 
 progress to the great success that has attended the discovery 
 of petroleum or rock oil in the neighbourhood. There are a 
 large number of refineries in the place, and large quantities of 
 the oil are shipped to England and the United States. The 
 
 Mlli 
 
i6o 
 
 Sartiia to Toronto. 
 
 I 
 
 1^ 
 
 oil seems to be distributed over the whole of this section of 
 the country between Sarnia and the Thames, as wells are 
 being worked in many places throughout the district, and 
 prospecting is still going on. London, which has grown 
 from a wilderness in 1825, situated at the junction of the 
 Port Stanly Railway, is a city of fine appearance, of wide 
 streets, running at right angles to each other, and with ex- 
 cellent buildings. The English Church here is one of the 
 few in this country possessing a peal of bells. London is a 
 sort of diverging centre of railways, it being the junction of 
 a branch of the Great Western to Sarnia from the main line, 
 the northern terminus of the Port Stanly road, and having 
 a branch of the Grand Trunk from St. Mary's, connecting it 
 with that line. It is 107 miles from Windsor, and ^6 from 
 Hamilton. Paris, 30 miles from Hamilton, at the intersec- 
 tion of the Great Western and Grand Trunk Railways, is 
 quite an important place. Gypsum, or plaster of Paris, is 
 found in large quantities in the vicinity, and as the neces- 
 sity for this manure increases year after year, the trade in it 
 will probably become very large. Situated at the confluence 
 of the Nith with the Grand River, it possesses excellent 
 water-power. There are several petrifying springs on the 
 river banks, and a mineral spring lately brought into notice, 
 analogous to the Caledonia Sulphur Spring, bids fair to 
 attract considerable attention. From Paris we would re- 
 commend the sportsman to take a team to Simcoe, 28 miles, 
 and thence by a fresh team (21 miles) to Long Point, on 
 Lake Erie, a noted duck-shooting place in the fall. It is a 
 strip of land nearly twenty miles long, and from one to three 
 miles in width, covered for the most part with a stunted 
 growth of forest trees. It was formerly a peninsula, running 
 out from the land in an easterly direction, nearly half-way 
 across the lake ; but the water, having made a wide breach 
 across its western extremity, has converted it into an island. 
 On the east end is an important light-house, to guide the 
 
Sarnia to Toronto. 
 
 I6t 
 
 section of 
 wells are 
 strict, and 
 has grown 
 ion of the 
 ce, of wide 
 id with ex- 
 one of the 
 vondon is a 
 junction of 
 s main line, 
 and having 
 mnecting it 
 nd 76 from 
 he intersec- 
 Railways, is 
 of Paris, is 
 1 the neces- 
 e trade in it 
 confluence 
 s excellent 
 ings on the 
 into notice, 
 jids fair to 
 would re- 
 oe, 28 miles, 
 g Point, on 
 all. It is a 
 3ne to three 
 a stunted 
 ala, running 
 rly half-way 
 wide breach 
 to an island, 
 guide the 
 
 mariner on his passage through the lake. As the direct 
 course for Buffalo and the mouth of the Welland Canal 
 passes this point, a fleet of vessels may daily be seen wend- 
 ing their way to and fro, and from the Point both shores of 
 the lake may be seen on a clear morning. A person going 
 here must procure a good punter, under whose charge he 
 must place himself entirely ; great sport is to be had here, 
 equalled only on the St. Clair Flats. Ducks of all kinds and 
 geese are to be met with ; occasionally, too, may be seen a 
 wild swan. All around the Point, good snipe-shooting also 
 is to be had. For duck-shooting, from a boat, a No. 10 bear 
 gun is the most deadly ; in fact, as a general thing, it is the 
 best size to use always. Immediately west of Long Point 
 are seen for some distance The Sand Hills, a long range of 
 mounds barely clad with vegetation, whose sand drifts about 
 with every wind-storm like snow. The Grand River, which 
 discharges its waters into Lake Erie, runs through a country 
 scarcely to be equalled in salubrity and loveliness, the land 
 being rolled and well cleared, and presenting more the ap- 
 pearance of " merrie England" than any other section of the 
 Province. The lands lying at the mouth of the river are low 
 and unhealthy. Brantford, on this river, 82 miles from 
 Goderich, and 7^ from Buffalo, on the Grand Trunk Railway, 
 takes its name from Brant, the Indian warrior, the renowned 
 Chief of the Six Nations, who, with his tribe, steadily sup- 
 ported the British Crown during the American war. In 
 ** Gertrude of Wyoming" he is alluded to in disparaging 
 terms as "the fiend, the monster Brant"; but some years 
 after that production, Campbell (the poet) was obliged to 
 apologize to Brant's son, who happened to visit London, as 
 it appeared, on satisfactory evidence, that his father was not 
 even present at the horrible desolation of Wyoming. Brant- 
 ford, from its foundries, potteries, and machine-shops, has 
 been called the " Birmingham of Canada." Between 
 Brantford and Caledonia lies a tract of land called the 
 
 1 , 
 
l62 
 
 Samia to Toronto. 
 
 Indian Reserve, grantv^d to the Six Nation Indians in 1784 
 for ever. A number of other tribes, or rather remnants of 
 tribes, hav^ since joined the settlement, amongst whom are 
 the Cayugas, Onendagas, Delawares, &c., many of whom are 
 still heathens. The sportsman will here have splendid 
 opportunities of obtaining information in the adept cunning 
 of the Indian hunter ; and the fishing in the Grand River 
 and its tributaries is fair. Should the trr.veller possess any 
 degree of curiosity as to the manner and mode of life among 
 the Indians, he has every chance here of gratifying his 
 curiosity. Many of them keep up their old customs with 
 great strictness — such as the war-dance, the funeral dance» 
 the dog-feast, &c. The last is such a peculiar ceremony, 
 and attended with such revolting customs, that it is to be 
 hoped civilization will ere long put a stop to these proceed- 
 ings. The following description of it is from an eye-witness : 
 " The idea that lies at the bottom of the rite is this, that by 
 eating of a dog's liver the heart is made strong. The first 
 step in the ceremony was for the Indians to seat themselves 
 in a circle around a large pole, and devote a few moments to 
 smoking. Suddenly a whoop was given, and the whole 
 party commenced dancing to the monotonous music of a 
 drum. Then bioke upon the ear tb^ howl, and in a moment 
 more the dying groan of a dog, from without the circle \i^ 
 dancers. The carcass was then tiirown into their midst by 
 a woman. A chorus of yells resounded through the air, the 
 dog was imniediately opened, his liver taken out, suspended 
 to the pole by a string, and the dance resumed. A moment 
 had hardly elapsed, Iiowever, before the dancers, one after 
 another, stepped up and took a bite of the yet warm and 
 quivering liver. As soon as this was eaten, the same 
 horrible ceremony was repeated, and so they continued 
 until the carcasses of several dogs were lying at the foot of 
 the pole in the centre of the dancing crowd." Here, too, 
 may be had an opportunity of witnessing the- gair e of La 
 
• 1^1 
 
 Samia to Toronto. 
 
 163 
 
 in 1784 
 lants of 
 lom are 
 tiom are 
 iplendid 
 :unning 
 id River 
 sess any 
 2 among 
 ^ing his 
 ims with 
 il dance» 
 ;remony, 
 is to be 
 proceed- 
 ■witness : 
 , that by 
 The first 
 lemselves 
 iments to 
 le whole 
 isic of a 
 moment 
 circle o-f 
 |midst by 
 air, the 
 ispended 
 moment 
 )ne after 
 rarm anu 
 |he same 
 lontinued 
 le foot of 
 [ere, too, 
 •e of La 
 
 Crosse in all its elegance. The supple and athletic forms of 
 the men are brought by it into bold relief, the only ornament 
 worn being paint over the body, which, with the usual 
 exception, is entirely naked. The balls used are formed of 
 a deerskin bag, stuffed with the hair of that animal, and sewn 
 with its sinews. The clubs are about three feet long, and 
 have at the lower end a sinewy netting, not unlike a tennis- 
 bat. With these they catch and hold the balls, and though 
 not allowed to touch it with the hands, it is sometimes kept 
 from once touching the ground for a whole afternoon. 
 
 These Indians, perhaps, retain the customs of their 
 fathers to a greater extent than any other half-civilized com- 
 munities of them, and as guides with the rod or gun, they 
 are invaluable : they seem, however, to be yearning for the 
 hunting-grounds of the West, and we may probably, before 
 many years are over, hear that they have migrated in a body 
 beyond the Great Lakes. 
 
 Galt and Guelph, north-east of Paris and Brantford, are 
 thriving places, though with no speciality to attract atten- 
 tion. Five miles from Hamilton we come to Dundas, at 
 the head of the Desjardins Canal, which runs to Burlington 
 Bay. Dundas is celebrated for its manufactories, and for its 
 beautiful rural scenery. It is the seat of many private resi- 
 dences of the Hamilton merchants. 
 
 The City of Hamilton is situated on Burlington Bay, at 
 the western extremity of Lake Ontario, and from its zeal 
 and eagerness has been named "the ambitious little city." 
 It was laid out and settled in I'^iZ by a person of the name 
 of Hamilton. It is situated on a plateau of slightly elevated 
 ground, winding around the foot of a hilly range, which 
 extends from Niagara Falls, and which here receives the 
 name of " the mountain." It was of great importance, in a 
 military point of view, before commerce thought of it for a 
 city. General Proctor, who was commanding the army of 
 the West in the war of 181 2, made this spot a resting-place 
 
 Hi;:' 
 
1 64 
 
 Sastiia to Toronto. 
 
 fi i 
 
 after his defeat ; and General Vincent, after being driven 
 from the Niagara frontier, and previous to his brilliant 
 victory over the American army at Stony Creek, made his 
 rendezvous at Burlington Heights. General Drummond, 
 again we are told, retired after the attack on Fort Erie to 
 Fort George and Burlington Heights. 
 
 The streets of Hamilton are wide and well laid out, and 
 the buildings generally very elegant, being built principally 
 of white stone. An ample supply of this latter near the 
 city has afforded the citizen a means of embellishment not 
 possessed naturally by the sister City of Toronto. Burling- 
 ton Bay is a very beautiful basin, five miles long and two 
 wide, and navigable in all parts to within a few yards of the 
 shore, making one of the most commodious and safe har- 
 bours on Lake Ontario. It abounds in pike, bass, perch, 
 and eels. During the winter a number of spearing-houses 
 are erected upon the Bay, and a large haul of fish is annually 
 made. The method of catching fish by the spear is very 
 exciting ; the house is rendered impervious to the light, and 
 a circular hole of about a yard in diameter is cut in the ice ; 
 the house being dark, renders the water quite clear, and the 
 fisherman can see to the bottom. A small decoy fish made 
 of wood, and painted in bright brilliant colours, is properly 
 weighted and worked in the water by means of a string ; 
 around this the fish disport themselves, and the expert 
 spearsman can select the largest, and by a dexterous throw 
 of his spear pierce it with the piongs. Some of the finest 
 fish are caught by this means, as 'ihey fearlessly approach 
 the decoy, and appear unaware of the proximity of danger. 
 It is unlawful to catch any but bass, pike, and a few other 
 kinds of fish by this means, as it is very destructive. The 
 best day for sport is after a storm, with a south-\/est wind 
 blowing pretty stiffly, as then the fish are on the move. The 
 method of fishing with a spear is not so exciting as the fine 
 old sport of angling. It lacks that glorious uncertainty after 
 
Sarnia to Toronto. 
 
 165 
 
 r driven 
 brilliant 
 lade his 
 mmond, 
 Erie to 
 
 out, and 
 
 incipally 
 
 lear the 
 
 lent not 
 
 Buriing- 
 
 and two 
 
 Is of the 
 
 safe har- 
 
 5, perch, 
 
 g-houses 
 
 annually 
 
 is very 
 
 ght, and 
 
 the ice ; 
 
 and the 
 
 sh made 
 
 properly 
 
 string ; 
 
 i expert 
 
 is throw 
 
 le finest 
 
 pproach 
 
 danger. 
 
 w other 
 
 The 
 
 ;st wind 
 
 ^e. The 
 
 the fine 
 
 ity after 
 
 the prey is hooked, that nicety of handling, and the pleasing 
 oscillation between hope and fear which charms the disciple 
 of the rod and line. When the spear is in the flesh of the 
 fish the battle is over, and it is only a question of sheer 
 strength to lift it out of the water. The spearing season 
 ends with February, after which the law imposes a fine on 
 any person caught taking fish by this means. Hamilton is 
 the chief city on the Great Western Railroad, of which the 
 head offices are erected here, and the terminus of the 
 Toronto branch of that line. On the approach from. 
 Windsor is visible overhanging the Bay, Dundurn, the 
 handsome castle or seat of the late Sir Allan McNab, 
 formerly speaker of the House of Assembly. 
 
 There are several very pretty drives near the city, amongst 
 which are "to the beach" and "up the mountain." Either 
 of these on a sultry summer day, when scarcely a breath of 
 air is to be felt stirring in the streets, and a fine dust, which 
 is thv. peculiar property of the soil in this vicinity, pervades 
 every open space, hemmed in by the mountain heights, is 
 exceedingly pleasant and delightful ; the fresh pure air on 
 the top of the mountain, and the cool lake breeze obtainable 
 at " the beach," are highly beneficial not only to the invalid, 
 but to whoever is able to enjoy them. " Oaklands," also, is 
 a favourite summer resort, which, together with " the beach," 
 are accessible by steam ferry-boats plying on Burlington 
 Bay. Watertown, six miles distant, and Flamboro' Heights, 
 Wellington Square, seven miles distant, " Burning Springs," 
 Ancaster, &c., are all at a distance just far enough to be 
 pleasant, and the roads, which are excellent, run through a 
 well-farmed country. 
 
 Hamilton, .being a city of such modern date, has no old 
 associations connected with it as a city ; the only historical 
 interest it possesses being centered in Burlington Heights, 
 and the places in the vicinity where skirmishing and battles 
 took place. But despite of this, though not equalling 
 
 K 
 
 l\ 
 
i66 
 
 Sartiia to Toronto. 
 
 
 n 
 
 i ■ I 
 
 Chicago in its sudden growth and expanse, no city in 
 Canada has so quickly risen into such a permanent state of 
 prosperity as Hamilton ; and from its peculiar situation 
 on the lake, coupled with the splendid railway connection it 
 holds, it at some time bids fair to rival in prosperity the 
 " Queen City of the West" — Toronto. Too much praise 
 cannot be ascribed to its merchants and leading men, who 
 have contributed to place it in its present position. 
 
 South-west of Hamilton, some i8 miles, lies Grimsby, on 
 Forty-one Mile Creek, the scene of some hard fighting in 
 1812, and at Stony Creek, seven miles from the city, a small 
 body of British regulars and Canadian militia, numbering 
 700, under command of Sir John Harvey, thoroughly routed 
 in a night attack the American army, consisting of 3000 
 men, killing and capturing great numbers, and causing them 
 to beat a hasty retreat to Fort George, leaving the com- 
 munication with part of the Niagara frontier open to the 
 British, and eventually thus saving the Province. 
 
 The branch of the Great Western Railway to Toronto 
 runs most of the way near the lake. The whole length of 
 the line is fiat and uninteresting, presenting at Oakville 
 and Port Credit glimpses of water scenery, and, when 
 nearing Toronto, running directly along the shore of the 
 Humber Bay, till passing near the Garrison and the old 
 Fort, it enters the new Station of Toronto. 
 
 North of Port Credit lies Georgetown, on the Grand 
 Trunk Railway. Half-a-mile east of the station is the 
 railway bridge over the Credit River, — perhaps the finest 
 structure of its kind west of Toronto. The head waters of 
 the Credit River and its tributaries swarm with speckled 
 trout. It is no uncommon thing for an expert to take from 
 100 to 300 in one day. The best ground is " the forks" of 
 the Credit and Shaw's Lake. 
 
 Many sportsmen think it necessary to go out for a fishing 
 excursion with their legs encased in high, cumbrous water- 
 
 t; 
 
city in 
 state of 
 ituation 
 iction it 
 rity the 
 1 praise 
 2n, who 
 
 ISBY, on 
 iting in 
 a small 
 nbering 
 y routed 
 of 3000 
 ig them 
 tie com- 
 i to the 
 
 Toronto 
 ngth of 
 
 lKVILLE 
 
 d, when 
 
 of the 
 
 the old 
 
 Grand 
 is the 
 ; finest 
 aters of 
 peckled 
 e from 
 rks" of 
 
 I fishing 
 watcr- 
 
 Samia to Toronto. 
 
 167 
 
 proof boots or leggings. This is a great mistake. They are 
 the worst possible things for slipping on the stones and 
 rocks in brooks and rivers, and encumber the general 
 motions of the body. A good pair of dry worsted socks, 
 taken in the pocket to put on when the day's sport is eve. , 
 will prevent the chance of a cold, catarrh, or rheumatism. 
 When on a fishing expedition of several days, the sportsman, 
 living constantly in the open air, need not fear any of these 
 maladies. It is the change from a house to camp, or vice 
 versa, which is to be dreaded on this account. An Indian 
 will tell you that if he goes into a house and sits by the fire, 
 he is sure to catch cold ; so do you generally the first night 
 in camp, but by the next night it is all gone. The best 
 description of cloth of which the sportsman's clothes, whether 
 he be hunting or fishing, in winter or summer, should be 
 made, is the homespun cloth of the country. It is strong, 
 warm, and light ; and, when saturated with water, will dry 
 sooner than any other description. Flannel shirts form an 
 indispensable item in a wardrobe for the bush, whether in 
 summer or winter : but scarlet is a bad colour for any part 
 of a fishing costume. One of the best means of keeping off 
 flies and mosquitoes, is by wearing a veil of the finest gauze 
 fastened round the cap, and drawn in round the neck under 
 the chin. It forms a bag round the head, and even the 
 diminutive sand fiy cannot penetrate its meshes, if the gauze 
 be fine. Old kid gloves, with the ends of the fingers cut off, 
 will be found useful in protecting the hands. 
 
 The shooting throughout the whole of this western section 
 of Canada is much the same in all its localities. In Septem- 
 ber and October excellent sport may be had with woodcock 
 in the clumps of thick alder bushes standing in the meadows, 
 and in the swampy ravines on the banks of creeks or springy 
 ground. It requires, however, a quick eye and a good shot 
 to kill three out of four woodcock put up in the dense and 
 tall swamps in which they find covert. A drive on a fresh 
 
i68 
 
 Sarnia to Toronto. 
 
 
 f i 
 
 • 
 
 autumnal morning through the gorgeous scenery of the fall, 
 and then a day in covert, watching the motions of the lively 
 " cockers," returning in the evening to your stopping-place 
 with a bag containing eight or ten couples of plump cock, 
 conduce to render a day's sport with this game a delightful 
 change from the monotony of town life. The partridge or 
 pheasant, as it is not unfrequently called, the true name of 
 which is the ruffed grouse, is found in the woods all over the 
 country. It prefers hill-sides covered with groves of birch 
 or hemlock and spruce. It is by no means comparable to 
 the English partridge, and, at passant, it eats better boiled 
 or stewed than in any other fashion. 
 
 Grouse or partridge shooting commences on the 20th 
 August. Wild pigeon shooting in April, and after July, in 
 certain districts, aifords good sport ; in the Niagara district, 
 and in the central part of the Huron district, the passenger 
 pigeon still resorts in such quantities that Audubon's graphic 
 description of the flights of wild pigeons ceases to appear 
 overdrawn. The great advent of them takes place about 
 once in five or seven years, and it is a curious coincidence 
 that in the same seasons the black squirrels are most abun- 
 dant ; the devastation caused by these countless hosts in the 
 wheat-fields is very great, and the numbers that can be killed 
 in a few hours render it irksome to bring home the spoil. 
 For several weeks in the fall the large open fallow grass- 
 fields are frequented by large flocks of golden plover, which 
 stop here to rest before proceeding further southward. It is 
 amusing near the towns to see the excitement attendant on 
 their arrival. Every man or boy who can muster up a fire- 
 lock is out on the commons to blaze away at them as they 
 pass, and bang ! go a dozen guns pointed at the dense flock ; 
 then there is a general scramble for the slain, and those who 
 have loaded with perhaps only a little loose powder claim as 
 many of the birds as they ought to have put shot in their 
 barrels. Snipe are plentiful on all the marshes in September 
 
 
Sarnia to Toronto. 
 
 169 
 
 •y of the fall, 
 
 of the lively 
 
 :opping-place 
 
 plump cock, 
 
 e a delightful 
 
 partridge or 
 
 true name of 
 
 Is all over the 
 
 )ves of birch 
 
 Dmparable to 
 
 better boiled 
 
 on the 20th 
 after July, in 
 igara district, 
 he passenger 
 bon's graphic 
 ses to appear 
 place about 
 coincidence 
 most abun- 
 hosts in the 
 can be killed 
 ne the spoil, 
 fallow grass- 
 over, which 
 iward. It is 
 attendant on 
 er up a fire- 
 lem as they 
 dense flock ; 
 d those who 
 der claim as 
 hot in their 
 September 
 
 I 
 
 and October ; for success with them, you must rely on good 
 dogs and a sure aim, and a plethoric game bag will be your 
 reward. Curlew, teal, widgeon, hares, and in the forests of 
 the extreme south-west, where, free from the growth of 
 underbrush, the mighty maples and walnuts remind us of an 
 English park or woodland, wild turkeys, will be the means 
 of varying your sport. But let the traveller take one piece 
 of solemn advice : adjure wasting powder and shot in the 
 neighbourhood of cities or towns ; spring shooting and pot- 
 hunters have for the most part extirpated the game in such 
 localities. 
 
 A word or two as to the breed of dogs best adapted to 
 field shooting in Canada : — For snipe, quail, and woodcock, 
 the pointer has been decided to be the best ; they possess 
 more brain than setters, and consequently greater memory ; 
 the lattaer, in a dog, especially for Canadian use, is every- 
 thing, when we consider the long interval between our 
 shooting season, say from April to October, and November 
 to April again. Setters, from want of memory, get wild, and 
 require almost breaking again. Many persons assert that 
 the better has more pluck, and that they can endure more 
 cold ; neither of these assertions, however, is correct. The 
 only other kind of dog useful in Canada for shooting pur- 
 poses is a well-bred retrieving spaniel. It is a remarkable 
 fact that in all pointers or setters imported from Great 
 Britain, however thorough-bred or thoroughly broken they 
 may be, they will for the first two or three years be good for 
 nothing here, shewing no keenness in ranging, and con- 
 stantly over-running the birds. This is attributable to the 
 dryness of the climate, and until they become acclimatized, 
 they are worthless except to breed from ; their issue will be 
 fit for work at ten months old. ' !,.- - n .- ~ 
 
 In botanical productions, and especially ferns. Upper 
 Canada is still more productive than the Lower Province. 
 In addition to most of the flowers enumerated under the 
 
 ' I 
 
I I 
 
 t\ 
 
 170 
 
 Niagara Falls. 
 
 head of Quebec, we meet here with the Squill, the Canada 
 or Day Lily, the Turk's Cap Lily (in rich low grounds), the 
 Iris or Blue Flag, the Daphne, the Bindweed or Convolus 
 (equal almost to the garden variety), the Canada Water 
 Leaf, the Gerardia, the Azalea (wrongly called Honeysuckle), 
 the Prickly Pear-Cactus (found on the high ridges in Essex 
 and Lambton), the Meadow Sweet, Jewel-Weed, Cistus, the 
 Nymphoea or Water Lily (in great profusion), and the Sangui- 
 naria or Bloodroot, which, like the English Snowdrop, often 
 thrusts its delicate white blossom through a thin crust of 
 snow on some sheltered bank in spring, as if impatient to 
 meet the embraces of the sun, — each and all of these grow- 
 ing, not some here, some there, but diffused universally, lend 
 a charm to the landscape, and afford treasures to the herb- 
 alist comparatively unknown in foreign climes. 
 
 NIAGARA FALLS. 
 
 From earliest childhood the name of " Niagara Falls" is 
 associated with everything that is sublime and grand in 
 nature ; but to attempt to describe it conveys no more idea 
 of the grand majesty of its beauty, than a painting of it does 
 of the sound produced by the falling of its waters. To the 
 traveller entering from the United States two of the grandest 
 wonders of the world of nature and of art simultaneously 
 burst upon the view — viz., the Falls of Niagara and the 
 Suspension Bridge. The latter being the connecting link 
 between the two countries of Canada and the United States, 
 and the means by which the traveller gains access to the 
 former, must first claim attention ; on the American shore, 
 at the commencement of the bridge, is Elgin, and on the 
 
:he Canada 
 oimds), the 
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 ada Water 
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 :he Sangui- 
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Niagara Falls. 
 
 171 
 
 Canada side Clifton Village, or the Village of the Falls, as it 
 is sometimes called, though the terminus of the Great 
 Western Railway is called Suspension Bridge, or Niagara 
 City. This village has grown up entirely with the erection of 
 the bridge. Near it is a mill, whose motive power is a wheel 
 below, requiring a shaft 280 feet long to communicate with 
 the mill on the top of the bank ; this is quite a curiosity in 
 its way. This International Suspension Bridge was thrown 
 across the Niagara River to connect the Great Western 
 Railway of Canada with the several lines of New York 
 State ; it is supported by four cables, each of which is nine 
 and a half inches in diameter, and composed of 8000 wires ; 
 the towers are 66 feet high, 15 feet square at the base, and 
 eight feet at the top : the span is 800 feet across. The 
 bridge is indeed a monument to the ingenuity and labour of 
 science. It has two floors — the upper for the railroad track 
 and the lower for pedestrians and carriages, a fee being 
 requisite before passing ; and when half-way across the view 
 is most striking. Its tunnel-like form as you look through it 
 is most capacious. Looking up the river directly at the falls, 
 a mile and a half off — to see the water hurrying underneath 
 at a depth of 260 feet, flecked with the long and tortuous 
 lines of foam which have floated down from the cataract, and 
 compressed into a ridge-like rise in the middle, boiling and 
 leaping and foaming in its onward course to the whirlpool — 
 the precipitous banks of the river on either side, with a 
 luxuriant growth of pines growing on the debris at their 
 base — and, above all, the passage of the cars over the 
 tourist's head as he gazes, produce sensations of dread and 
 a nervous timidity. So solid is this bridge in its weight, 
 and its staying, that not the slightest motion is communi- 
 cated to it by the severest gales of wind that blow up through 
 the narrow gorge which it spans. Its equilibrium is less 
 affected in cold weather than in warm, and its elasticity is 
 such that after the passage of a train its equilibrium is at 
 
172 
 
 Niagara Falls. 
 
 once restored. The cost of this mighty structure was only 
 $500,000. 
 
 The River Niagara, signifying, in the Iroquois language, 
 " Thunder of Waters',' takes its rise in the western extremity 
 of Lake Erie, and, after a course of thirty-three and a 
 half miles, flows into Lake Ontario, which is 334 feet 
 lower than Lake Erie. At Fort Erie, the point where it 
 issues from Lake Erie, it is something more than three- 
 quarters of a mile in width, and the powerful current, 
 run'^ing on through a level country, embosoms two islands 
 about half-way in its course to the Falls ; these are Grand 
 Isle, belonging to the United States, the original seat of Mr. 
 Noah's famous Tewlch colony, containing 11,000 acres, and, 
 about ten miles lower down. Navy Island, opposite to the 
 village of Chippewa, — memorable as being the rendezvous of 
 the so-called Patriots in '38 under Van Ranselaer, and from 
 whence, with American artillery, they swept the Canadian 
 shore till dislodged and compelled to evacuate it, Jan. 14th, 
 by the superior weight of British metal. Here the two chan- 
 nels formed by these islands re-unite, and the river becomes 
 about two miles wide. A little lower down, at the mouth of the 
 Welland or Chippeway River, it suddenly contracts to less 
 than a mile, and its current rapidly increases from three to 
 seven or eight miles an hour. The course of the river in this 
 part is nearly due west, and its banks begin to rise, first to ten 
 or twelve feet, and soon to twenty, thirty, and fifty feet above 
 the surface of the water. This rising of the banks is not the 
 effect of a rise in the surrounding country, which, in fact, 
 preserves its level in a continuous plain, but it is owing to 
 the bed of the river descending an inclined plane. Here the 
 waters begin to fall back into curling eddies along the banks, 
 but the current in the centre flows smoothly, till suddenly 
 the powerful stream is thrown with accumulated swiftness 
 among broken rocks ; and as you watch it, looking from 
 below, it seems tossed with the first shock into the very sky. 
 
Niagara Falls. 
 
 m 
 
 w^as only 
 
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 uddenly 
 
 wiftness 
 
 ig from 
 
 ery sky. 
 
 It descends in foam, and from this moment its agony com- 
 mences. For three miles it tosses and resists, and racked 
 at every step by sharper rocks and increased rapidity, its 
 unwilling and choked waves fly back, to be again prec'pi- 
 tated onward with great force against Ihe Canadian side, 
 where they are driven back by the high rorky bank ; for at 
 this point the river suddenly turns to a course east of north, 
 and immediately afterwards the water is hurled down a 
 perpendicular height of 160 feet into a terrific gulf, 16 miles 
 above Lake Ontario. Goat Island divides the cataract into 
 two unequal falls, called respectively the American Falls 
 and the Canadian or Horse-shoe Falls. Its exact dimensions 
 can be only conjectural ; the American Fall is estimated at 
 164 feet, the Horse-shoe 150 feet. The latter is supposed 
 to be 1,900 feet across, the former 908. The Canadian 
 cataract rolls over a precipice projecting about fifty feet 
 beyond its base, and the falling waters form a curve, between 
 which and the rock itself persons may proceed thirty or forty 
 yards. The Rapids above the Falls are far from being 
 the least interesting feature of the scenery. There is a 
 violence and a power in their foaming career which is seen 
 in no other phenomenon of the same class. Standing on the 
 bridge which connects Goat Island with the mainland, the 
 throwing over of which was a work of noble daring, and 
 looking up towards Lake Erie, the leaping cresu of the 
 rapids form the horizon, and it seems like a battle charge of 
 tempestuous waves, animated and infuriated against the sky. 
 No one who has not seen this spectacle can conceive with 
 what force the swift and ovei'whelming waters are flung 
 upwards. Nearer the plunge of the Fall the rapids become 
 still more agitated, and it is almost impossible for the spec- 
 tator to rid himself of the idea that they are conscious of the 
 abyss to which they are hurrying, and struggle back in the 
 very extremity of horror. But as they touch the emerald 
 arch, like the calm that follows the conviction of inevitable 
 
*74 
 
 Niagara Falls. 
 
 doom, the agitation ceases, the waters pause, the foam and 
 resistance subside into a transparent stillness, and slowly 
 and solemnly the doomed water drops into the abyss. 
 
 The best way to approach Niagara is to go upon the 
 American shore and cross at the ferry. The descent of 
 about 200 feet by the staircase brings the traveller, after 
 climbing over huge boulders, and the debris that has fallen 
 from above, directly under the shoulder and edge of the 
 American Fall, and within a few feet of the spot on which 
 the water is dashed and broken into spray — the most 
 imposing scene for a single object that he will ever have 
 witnessed. The long column of sparkling water seems, 
 as he stands near it, to descend to an immeasurable depth, 
 and the bright sea-green curve above has the appearance of 
 being let into the sky. The tremendous power of the Fall, 
 as well as the height, realizes here his utmost expectations. 
 He descends to the water's edge, and embarks in a ferry- 
 boat, which tosses like an egg-shell on the heaving and 
 convulsed water, and in a minute or two he finds himself in 
 the face of the vast line of the Falls, and then he sees with 
 surprise that he had as yet expended his admiration on but 
 a thread of Niagara, — the fractional part of its wondrous 
 volume and grandeur. The current at the ferry sets very 
 strongly down, and it is with difficulty that the boat is 
 propelled across the stream. Arrived near the opposite 
 landing, however, there is a slight counter-current, and 
 the large rocks near the shore serve as a breakwater* 
 behind which the boat runs safely to her moorings. 
 
 It is computed that 100,000,000 tons of water are dis- 
 charged over the precipice every hour ; and when we 
 consider that this river is the only outlet for all the waters 
 of Lakes Erie, St. Claire, Huron, Superior, and Michigan, 
 some conception may be formed of the 'mmense volume of 
 water continually precipitating itself over these Falls. Major 
 Warburton thus speaks of it, and his description is most 
 
JNtafrara tails. 
 
 175 
 
 am and 
 [ slowly 
 i. 
 
 )on the 
 jcent of 
 2r, after 
 IS fallen 
 ; of the 
 n which 
 le most 
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 • seems, 
 e depth, 
 ranee of 
 the Fall, 
 ctations. 
 a ferry- 
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 nself in 
 2es with 
 1 on but 
 ondrous 
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 boat is 
 opposite 
 nt, and 
 ikwaten 
 
 are dis- 
 hen we 
 waters 
 ichigan, 
 lume of 
 Major 
 is most 
 
 accurate : " The mighty rivei comes rushing over the brow 
 of a hill, and as you look up to it, it seems as if coming to 
 overwhelm you ; then, meeting with the rocks as it pours 
 down the declivity, it boils and frets like the breakers of the 
 ocean. Huge mounds of water, smooth, transparent, and 
 gleaming like an emerald, rise up and bound over some 
 impediment, then break into silver foam, which leaps into 
 the air in the most graceful and fantastic forms." 
 
 The first impression formed at sight of the cataract from 
 the Canada side is amazement mingled with disappointment ; 
 this is invariably the case, and may be traced, in all proba- 
 bility, to the fact of the spectator's looking down upon the 
 scene, and so being unable to g^asp at a single glance the 
 majesty of the view ; but by degrees, as the eye becomes 
 more accustomed to the sight, the mind, only wont to look 
 upon ordinary phenomena, feels a new train of thought 
 forced in an instant upon it. There is no time or coolness 
 for distinct impressions ; much less for calculations. But it 
 is from the foot of Table Rock, or rather what was Table 
 Rock (for it fell suddenly some years ago), that the mind by 
 degrees recovers from its amazement, and it is in this spot 
 that it shrinks at the littleness and helplessness of man, and 
 the insignificance of his pigmy efforts ; the mighty precipice 
 towering up above him, and overhanging, for it overtops its 
 base by many feet — the mass of rock appearing as if every 
 instant it would fall and crush him in its ruins — the thunder 
 of the waters — the spray which drifts around in eddies, 
 painted with rainbows, as the various currents of wind 
 engendered in the chasm waft it hither and thither through 
 the sunshine, like the mist on the mountains, or the finest 
 particle of the snow-drift — and, above all, the seeming soli- 
 tude of this spot, hidden from the busy world, — all and each 
 of these make an impression on the mind thai no pen can 
 describe, and probably there is no other place on the whole 
 globe where such rn impression of awe is left upon the 
 
176 
 
 Niagara Falls. 
 
 mind, unless it be the beetling cliffs oi" the dark-rolling 
 Saguenay. 
 
 The water that comes over the Horse-shoe Fall has a 
 peculiar appearance from the light green or emerald colour 
 it presents ; and from the Horse-shoe Fall not being quite 
 circular, but marked by projections and indentations, which 
 give amazing variety of form to the mighty torrent, it falls 
 in the centre in one dense mass, calm, unbroken, and resist- 
 less, and the depth on the edge of the leap is computed to 
 be 25 feet ; at the edges and the projections it is broken 
 into drops, which fall like a shower of diamonds sparkling in 
 the sun, and at times so light and foaming, that it is driven 
 up again by the currents of air ascending from the deep below. 
 Descending by a circular staircase, after first paying 50 cents 
 at the Museum House directly opposite, where you obtain a 
 guide and a tarpaulin dress to avoid the wetting influence of 
 the spray, the tourist finds himself on a narrow ledge of rock 
 which leads into a cavern behind the sheet of waters called 
 the " Cave of the Winds." It is in the form of a pointed 
 arch, the span on the left hand being composed of rolling 
 and dark water, that on the right, of daik limestone rock, in 
 which are layers here and there of a shining white spar^ of 
 which a specimen should always be brought away, if it be 
 but to show that you have been under Niagara ; the cave is 
 from fifty to sixty feet long, but from the obscurity that 
 surrounds it, together with the violent currents of wind 
 caused )>y the agitation of the air from the falling waters, 
 and the slippery state of the narrow ledge, beneath which is 
 a black yawning gulf too obscure for the eye to penetrate, it 
 is a difficult and dangerous undertaking, especially for the 
 young and those who are at all nervous. The depth of the 
 abyss into which the waters pour has never been, and 
 probably never will be, ascertained ; and the mind is left to 
 conjecture the fathomless cavern which the impetus of the 
 waters must, during the lapse o f ages, have worn. On the 
 
Niagara Falls. 
 
 177 
 
 very day on which Table Rock fell, and only an hour or two 
 previous to the catastrophe, the engineer of the Victoria 
 Bridge, with several of his colleagues, was standing on the 
 spot it covered in its fall. Large masses still frequently 
 detach themselves in the spring from the projecting precipice 
 to the great danger of the traveller, unless attended by a 
 guide, who will have previously discharged a pistol shot or 
 two to loosen and bring down by the vibration of the air, 
 any mass that is detached or dangerous. From the site of 
 Table Rock, a gorgeous view lies outspread on e"^ery side. 
 Loud and voluminous as is the sound of this gigantic water- 
 fall which fills the air and ear with its ceaseless roar, there 
 is nothing harsh, discordant, or inharaionious ; the sound is 
 symphonious with the scene, full of majesty and overawing 
 like the distant thunder. 
 
 In winter the Falls present a remarkable appearance ; the 
 spray that settles on all the surrounding objects, and espe- 
 cially the trees, becomes immediately turned into a coating 
 of ice, which, in the bright sunshine, recalls some of the 
 " Arabiatt Nights" palaces, or fairy handiwork. The huge 
 massive pillars of ice also, which are formed by the continual 
 drippings on the precipices of the river banks, look like 
 emerald shafts. No traveller who passes by here in the 
 winter should fail to view the Falls at that season. 
 
 Of course, in such a resort for visitors as this, there are 
 any number of " hangers-on," eager and on the look-out to 
 ease the unsuspecting traveller of his money at every turn, 
 under pretence of showing this or that ; we would strongly 
 recommend him to take no notice of any such offers, and 
 for the service of guides rely on those furnished at the 
 Museum House or at the Clifton House ; and before engag- 
 ing a carriage, let him by all means stipulate as to its cost 
 beforehand. The Clifton House on the Canadian, and the 
 Elgin House on the American sides, are both first-class 
 hotels, and private lodgings can be had if preferable ; and as 
 
178 
 
 Niagara Falls. 
 
 the tourist ought to stay here some days to visit the places 
 of interest in the vicinity, perhaps the latter would be pre- 
 ferable. Good lodgings can be had at Drummondville, only 
 one mile distant, and at a more reasonable rate than at the 
 Falls. 
 
 Close by the Clifton House is a substantial dwelling of 
 stone, standing on the highest spot in a beautiful park of 20 
 acres, commanding a full view of all the neighbouring 
 scenery ; this was built and laid out by the late S. Zimmer- 
 man, Esq. The grounds are surrounded by a fine hedge of 
 privet, rendered impenetrable by the addition of a strong 
 wire fence. The lawn slopes beautifully towards the Falls,, 
 neatly ornamented with forest trees and fountains, and is 
 surrounded by numerous gas-lights, which, when used,, 
 present a lively appearance. This was the house at which 
 the Prince of Wales staid when on his visit here. 
 
 Goat Island, which divides the American from the 
 Canadian Fall, is a bold craggy spot, 330 yards wide, and 
 covered with vegetation, which has been artificially improved 
 by the laying out of winding roads and cultivation. The 
 island has been rightly named, for its precipitous ledges 
 suggest the idea that goats only could originally find a com- 
 fortable footing. From it to a small rock called Iris Island 
 has been thrown another rude bridge, and on that island 
 itself a tower has been built, called the Terrapin Tower, 
 from the summit of which a most magnificent view is 
 obtained, looking directly into the gulf of the main Fall. 
 Here, also, is a book for visitors to enter their names in, 
 which affords some interesting records of illustrious names 
 and their accompanying remarks. If this tower is visited at 
 sunrise, when the whole cavity is enlightened by its rays, 
 and the gorgeous bow trembles in the spray, nowhere else 
 in the world can such an imcomparable scene be beheld. 
 Within a few minutes' walk, on the American side, are ta 
 be found all the bustle and activity of life ; hotels and 
 
Niagara Falls. 
 
 179 
 
 mills of every description, and a busy town. The mills 
 materially mar the scenery by stopping the view, but their 
 commercial benefit to the neighbourhood makes up perhaps 
 for this fault. Contiguous to Goat Island, are Three Sister 
 Islands or Islets, breaking the current on the American 
 •side. 
 
 After the American war in 1 8 1 2, three large British ships, 
 stationed on Lake Erie, were condemned, and permission was 
 obtained to send them over the Falls ; the first was torn to 
 shivers by the rapids, and went over in pieces, the second 
 filled with water before she reached the Falls, but the third 
 took the leap gallantly, and retained her form till lost in the 
 cloud of mist below ; one fragment only of her was afterwards 
 found, a foot in length, smashed as if in a vice, and its edges 
 notched like the teeth of a saw. The steamer Caroline, 
 which conveyed munitions of war to Navy Island during the 
 rebellion of '38, was, after her seizure, set on fire and suffered 
 to drift down the Falls in flames. This must have been a 
 grand spectacle to see in the dead of night, the consuming 
 element lighting up with lurid glare in its descent the abyss 
 which an instant after extinguished it, leaving the darkness 
 more impenetrable than before. No fragments of her were 
 ever found. It is said that the Americans were repeatedly 
 warned, that unless the Caroline was withdrawn from this 
 illegal traffic, she would be seized ; but as no notice was 
 taken of the order, the British gallantly boarded and took 
 her, whilst she was moored at Fort Schlosser. In trying to 
 tow her across the river, the current proved too strong, and 
 the only alternative was to set her on fire and cut her adrift, 
 which was done, and the blazing vessel, whirling over rapids 
 and falls, came to its doom. 
 
 About three miles below the Falls is a frightfully wild 
 spot called The Whirlpool. Here the current has formed 
 a circular excavation, the water rushing into the vortex with 
 furious impetuosity, sweeps wildly past the sides of the 
 
1 80 
 
 Niagara Falls, 
 
 high and perpendicular banks, carrying round and round 
 with a circular quivering motion trees, dead animals, &c., 
 that come within its reach. The rocks are steep, and no 
 boat dares approach it; and the corpse of a gentleman, 
 drowned while bathing not many years ago, was to be seen 
 for nearly three weeks making fearful and rapid gyrations, 
 suddenly disappearing at some point of motion, and again 
 emerging half its length above the flood, like a maniac 
 battling with his foe. Three and a half miles below the Falls 
 is a curious triangular shaped chasm in the bank of the river, 
 known as " The Devil's Hole." Into this falls a stream 
 called " The Bloody Rmi." Not a very classical name, 
 certainly, neither does tradition afford any clue as to its 
 origin, except in the fact of a body thoroughly rifled having 
 in the early days of Niagara been found there. More 
 probably it has been the scene of some Indian warfare, as 
 the same names, one a tributary of the Mississippi and 
 another of the Arkansas, had their origin from the indis- 
 criminate slaughter of buffaloes that took place there in days 
 of yore. One tradition asserts that it took its name from a 
 detachment of British soldiers having been precipitated over 
 it in their flight from an attack by Indians during the old 
 French war in 1759. Below this the Niagara resumes its 
 soft and gentle beauty, flowing through a channel where 
 the rocks rise from 150 to 200 feet perpendicularly, pre- 
 senting an appearance as if the river had worn for itself 
 the channel it now uses. Seven miles down, the country 
 rises into abrupt and elevated ridges called Queenston 
 Heights, and supposed to have been " the place of the 
 Falls" in former ages : it is said that the Falls recede 
 about a foot in a year, and Sir Charles Lyell, the 
 eminent geologist, thinks that thirty-Jive thousand years 
 must have elapsed since the time when Queenston Heights 
 frowned upon the Falls. It is, however, certain, that the 
 attrition of such a force of water must act upon the 
 
Niagara Falls. 
 
 i8i 
 
 rock, which is only a limestone, and imagination is left to 
 conjecture the effect to be produced on the bed of Lake 
 Erie, should the course of time run long enough to admit of 
 the Falls receding to that point. The present rapids in the 
 St. Lawrence are thought by Sir Wm. Logan to be the 
 remains of cataracts long since worn away, and the formation 
 of their surrounding country furthers that idea. Queenston 
 demands a visit from the traveller both as being the scene 
 of the gallant defence made there by the British in 1812, 
 and for the view obtainable from this elevation. Here it was 
 that General Brock and his aid-de-camp, Lieut.-Colonel 
 McDonnell, both fell mortally wounded, nth October, 18 12. 
 Brock was killed in the middle of the fight, while leading 
 on his men. His last words were, so history tells us : — 
 " Never mind the death of one man — I have not long to live." 
 A memorial pillar is erected, called Brock's Monument, — a 
 column 185 feet high, on the capital of which is a dome nine 
 feet high, reached by 250 spiral steps from the base inside. 
 Beneath, in massive stone sarcophagi, are deposited the 
 remains of both the heroes, who were interred first at Fort 
 George, but removed afterwards to the scene of their exploits 
 as a more fitting resting-place. History tells us that the 
 remains of the gallant commander were, during the funeral 
 service, honoured with a discharge of minute guns from the 
 American as well as the British batteries. On the summit 
 of the dome is a colossal statue of the General. This monu- 
 merit exceeds in height any other monumental column, 
 ancient or modern, with the exception of that on Fish Street 
 Hill, London, in commemoration of the great fire of 1666, 
 which exceeds this one by 12 feet in height. The original 
 monument erected by the Provincial Government was 
 maliciously damaged in 1840 by a vagabond named Lett, 
 who had been compelled to fly to the United States for his 
 share in the rebellion of '37, and who thus sought to insult 
 the people of Canada by this atrocious deed. There is no 
 
 P 
 
1 82 
 
 Niagara Falls. 
 
 place in the vicinity of the Falls better adapted for a pic-nic 
 than this spot ; at the foot of the Heights is the little village 
 of Queenston, where the river again becomes navigable, and 
 on the opposite side lies the pretty town of Lewiston, nest- 
 ling in the hills. During the udttle that took place here, the 
 Americans, under Captain Wool, having forced the Heights, 
 were unable to hold them, and before a charge of the British, 
 personally directed by Brock, they gave way and fled in all 
 directions, some concealing themselves in the bushes, others 
 throwing themselves down the precipice, most of them 
 being cither killed by the fall, or drowned while attempting 
 to swim the riv^er. 
 
 The vicinity of the Falls is rich in the classic ground of 
 battle-fields. Four miles distant is Chippawa, a pretty 
 village at the junction of the river of the same name with 
 the Niagara, whose waters being after rains of a muddy 
 colour, have the peculiarity of flowing side by side with 
 those of the Niagara without mingling, like the Ottawa and 
 St. Lawrence. Here in 1814, after a severe engagement, 
 the British forces under General Riall were met by the 
 American under General Brown, and compelled to retire to 
 Fort George, whence, having received reinforcements, they 
 again advanced, and the two armies met a second tim.e in a 
 place called Lundy's Lane, near Drummondville, where, 
 after fighting valiantly till midnight with various fortune, the 
 Americans were compelled to retire with heavy loss. It is 
 said that throughout the whole war no battle could compare 
 with this for the obstinacy and courage exhibited on both 
 sid ;S, and though each party boasted a victory, altogether 
 loo dearly bought, neither was disposed to renew the con- 
 flict. Fort Erie, nearly opposite Buffalo, is also memorable 
 in history for the assault made on it by the British in the 
 same year, but attended with great disaster, from the accidental 
 explosion of some ammunition, which resulted in a panic and 
 the loss of 900 men. The final consequence of this attack 
 
Niagara falls. 
 
 183 
 
 on Fort Eric was even more disastrous in its consequences 
 to the British than had been the attack on Toronto to the 
 Americans when a similar explosion took place. Fort 
 Niagara, on the right bank of the Niagara River where it 
 falls into Lake Ontario, at the same period fell by stratagem 
 into the hands of the British ; a very interesting and 
 detailed account of all these battle-fields will be found in the 
 Second Series of the " Maple Leaves," by J. M. Lcmoine, 
 Esq., of Quebec. Fort Niagara ha.s many interesting 
 associations connected with it, as being the scene of many 
 severe conflicts between the whites and Indians, and subse- 
 quently between the English and French : the village 
 adjacent to the fort is called Youngstown, and the fort on 
 the Canadian side " MassasaugaV Near here is the quiet 
 town of Niagara, 16 miles from the Falls, noted for its 
 healthy position : and it is quite a resort for the pleasure- 
 seeker, the merchant, and the student, who come over from 
 Toronto on a Saturday, returning on the Monday by steamer. 
 The old historical name of the town was Newark. 
 
 Before leaving the Niagara district, the traveller should 
 pay a visit to the pretty and almost fashionable town of St. 
 Catharines, about nine miles from the Suspension Bridge. 
 The country through which the road winds affords a very 
 pleasant drive, or, if preferable, it can be reached by railway, 
 it being a station both on the Great Western and Welland 
 Railroads. It is beautifully situated on a tract of table land 
 above the valley through which the Welland Canal is cut, 
 and is surrounded by a section unsurpassed for fertility and 
 cultivation in the western part of the Province. Here the 
 peach, pear, and plum attain almost as great perfection as 
 in the peach-growing districts of the neighbouring States, 
 and from its productiveness, the Niagara District has been 
 styled " the Garden of Canada." St. Catharines is noted for 
 its mineral springs, which are very efficacious • in rheumatic 
 affections, and it is quite a resort in summer for invalids 
 
ib4 
 
 Niagara Falls. 
 
 from Northern New York and Canada, many business men 
 sending their families there during August, as from its 
 position they arc able, by various means of transit, to run 
 backwards and forwards themselves as business or duty 
 compels. The mineral spring has been brought before the 
 public by the indefatigable exertions of Mr. Stephenson- 
 The waters, which are raised from an Artesian Well of 
 nearly 600 feet through limestone rock into the substratum 
 beneath, have borne the test of many years, and their value 
 is recognized far and wide. The water, for use at a distance, 
 is evaporated by artificial heat, in the usual manner ; that 
 part which is composed of common salt first settles, and is 
 removed ; the remainder is dipped into vats, until the earthy 
 or useless foreign matter subsides, and the clear liquor is 
 then bottled off for use. 
 
 No place on the civilized earth offers such attractions and 
 inducements to visitors as Niagara and its surroundings. 
 The climate is in the highest degree healthful and invigorat- 
 ing. The atmosphere, constantly acted upon by the rushing 
 water and the spray, is kepi pure, refreshing, and salutary. 
 There are no stagnant pools ux marshes to send abroad their 
 fetid exhalations and noxious miasmas, poisoning the air and 
 producing disease. Wild flowers spring up spontaneously 
 on the sides and in the crevices of the giant rocks, and 
 luxuriant clusters of fir and alders cover the islands and 
 banks of Niagara. There are no mosquitoes to annoy, no 
 reptiles to alarm, and no wild animals to intimidate, yet 
 there is life and vivacity. Varieties of water-fowl sport 
 among the rapids, the sea-gull and the swallow play around 
 the precipice, literally hovering in the mist, and the eagle in 
 majestic flight makes its home among the inaccessible islands 
 and their giant trees. 
 
 While curiosity remains and constitutes an attribute of 
 the human character, this resort will be frequented by 
 admiring and delighted visitors as one of the grandest 
 exhibitions in nature. 
 
Conclusiofu 
 
 185 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 ute of 
 d by 
 mdest 
 
 And now in conclusion, for the benefit of the tourist and 
 non-resident in Canada, we would say a few words as to its 
 climate. The winter, which is generally considered by 
 travellers as an extension of that season at the poles, 
 though certainly severe, is not so unfavorable as it at first 
 sight appears, and its salubrity is proved by its elastic and 
 exhilarating atmosphere. Instead of alternate rain, snow, 
 sleet and fog, with the broken-up roads of Europe, Canada 
 boasts of clear skies, and a bracing atmosphere, and the 
 "whole of the country is macadamized by nature." Few 
 who have enjoyed the merry winters, the hospitality and 
 pleasant society, the sleigh-rides and parties, the skating 
 rink and the "toboggin," can easily forget them. If 
 we seek European comparisons we find a parallel to a 
 Canadian winter at St. Petersburg, while the summer re- 
 sembles that of Paris ; but the sky rivals the former in 
 clearness. The advance in the temperature of the months 
 may be well illustrated by changes in the animal world ; 
 the song-sparrow sings in March, and the robin, while 
 the snow yet dapples the fields, will make frequent 
 attempts at a song. Wild geese visit the north about the 
 23rd of April, and in Eastern Canada the harsh, guttural 
 croak of the bullfrog is first heard in response to the music 
 of " merrie England" upon St. George's day. The transition 
 from winter to summer is so sudden, that it has been made 
 a subject of remark by all Europeans who visit the country. 
 With June comes the refulgent summer. The mean tem- 
 perature of that season ranges from 55° in the northern to 
 65° in the southern parts of the country, but the thermo- 
 meter often indicates a temperature more exalted than that 
 of the blood. The mean distribution of rain is 10 inches. 
 
 I i 
 
i86 
 
 Conclusion. 
 
 But if the spring be short, Canada boasts of an autumn 
 beautifully mild, and lingering on with its Indian summer 
 and golden sunsets until the month of December. The 
 Indian summer is a period of variable duration and of un- 
 certain occurrence. The French habitan styles it — 
 
 "L'«5t6 St. Martin 
 De soir au matiu." 
 
 The highly stimulating properties of the atmosphere here, 
 which, all things being equal, bear a certain relation to vege- 
 tation, have not only been cbserved by meteorologists, 
 but also by travellers, especially arresting the attention of 
 George Combe, the author of " The Constitution of Man." 
 New-comers scarcely feel the changes of the seasons for a 
 year or two after their arrival, and the temperate liver may 
 expect to reach an advanced age, provided no accident 
 befall him. 
 
 ! Touching foreign travel, no quotation is more trite than 
 that of Horace, "Coelum non animum mutant, qui trans 
 mare currunt." But the celebrated Dr. Arnold said, on 
 returning from his usual summer continental trip, that he 
 had proved the shallowness and falsity of it, as he had found 
 a refreshment in drinking in every instant a sense of the 
 reality of foreign objects, and a mainspring given to his 
 thoughts and feelings which he could hardly have realized 
 from well worn and familiar English scenes. English and 
 American tourists have been too apt to think that they 
 could not go through the nooks and corners of Lower 
 Canada without a knowledge of the French language ; and 
 that has to some extent acted as a drawback to the beautiful 
 scenery there met with, for the strangeness of a tongue 
 which we cannot use causes more perplexity and discomfort 
 than persons readily acknowledge. But in the Lower Pro- 
 vince English and French culture amalgamate, and the 
 English language predominates ; all know it, except a few 
 of the peasantry. 
 
 Aj 
 
 sumr 
 
 w5?e 
 
 is cd 
 
 and 
 
 disci 
 
 guinc 
 
 sport 
 
 hithe 
 
Coficlusion. 
 
 i8; 
 
 As a whole, this country, with its moderated heats of 
 summer, and its facilities for winter travel to spots other- 
 wise inaccessible, which unfold scenery whose magnificence 
 IS combined with the most delightful physical beauty , 
 and the sport it offers to the votaries of Nimrod and the 
 disciples of Isaac Walton, cannot but meet the most san- 
 guine expectations of the traveller, the tourist and the 
 sportsman. To all such, and to whoever bend tlieir steps 
 hitherward, either for residence or a visit, we offer 
 
 A HEARTY GREETING. 
 
Thel 
 An 
 
 Keoson 
 
 Sorox ; 
 
 " P 
 
 " < 
 
 « I 
 
 Blarina 
 
 Scalops 
 Condyli 
 Vesport 
 
 ITrsua A 
 Procyon 
 Gulo Li 
 Mephitis 
 cana) 
 Mustela 
 
 Putorius 
 
 Lutra Ca 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 The following is a catalogue of the animals of British North 
 America, compiled from the most authentic sources :— 
 
 f ; 
 i; 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL. 
 
 Scientific Name. Atithoritics. Common Name and EemarJcs. 
 
 Neosorex palustris Yerrill. Shi-ew. 
 
 Sorex Foster! Eich. " very rare. 
 
 Platyrhinus 'Wagnor. Eared Shrew, more common. 
 
 " Cooperi Bach. Cooper's Shi-ew. 
 
 Thompsoni Baird. Thompson's Shrew, common. 
 
 Bltirina Talpoides .... Gray. Short-tailed Shrew-molo. 
 
 " Angusticeps Bakd. " « not common. 
 
 Scalops Aquaticus Cuvr. Common Mole. 
 
 Condylura cristata DeKay. Star-nosed Mole. 
 
 Vespertilio Noveboracoasis... " N^ew York Bat, occasional. 
 
 Pruinosus " Hoary " not common. 
 
 Subulatus " Little Brovm. Ba.t, everywhere. 
 
 Noctivagans " Silver-Hah-ed " rare. 
 
 TJrsua Americanus Pallas. Black Bear. 
 
 Procyon Lotor Storr. Baccoon, Canad'^. West. 
 
 Gulo Luscus Goodman. Wolverine, Upper Ottawa. 
 
 Mephitis Mephitica (Ameri- 
 cana) Baird. Skunk. 
 
 Mustela Penuantii Erx. Fisher or Pennant's Martin. 
 
 " Martis Turt. Pine Marten. 
 
 Pusilla Bonp. Small Weasel, rare. 
 
 Putorius Cicognanii " " Crown Weasel, rare. 
 
 " Kichardsonii " Little Ermine, common. 
 
 " Novoboracensis DeKay Ermine. 
 
 " Vison Rich. Mink, becoming scarce. 
 
 Lutra Canadensis Sab. Otter. 
 
 " Deatructor Baraston. " Northern Lakes. 
 
IQO 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 Scientific 2s\..ne. Authorities. Common Name and Remarks 
 
 Vulpes Pulvus Kich. Red Fox. 
 
 " Decussatus and Argeu- 
 
 tatus ,...• " Sil' or and Black Fox. 
 
 Ganis Occidentalis " Common "Wolf. 
 
 Fells Concolor DeKa Catamount, Panther. 
 
 Lynx Canadensis Eaf. Loup Cervier, northern woods. 
 
 " Rufus " Wild Cat, common. 
 
 Phoca Yitulina Linn Common Seal, LowerSt.Laivrence 
 
 " Grcenlandica Mull. Harp Seal, Gaspe. 
 
 Stemmatopua Cristatus Cm. Hooded Seal, rare — Saguenay. 
 
 Didelphis Virginiana BeKay. Opossum, very rare, Canada West 
 
 Castor Canadensis Kuhl. Beaver. 
 
 Fiber Zibethicus Cu vr. Muskrat. 
 
 Pteromys Volucella " Flying Squin-el, Canada West. 
 
 Tamias Striatus Baird. Chipmunk. 
 
 Sciunis Carolinensis Gm. Gray Squii-rel. 
 
 " Niger Baird. Black " certain seasons. 
 
 '• Hudsonicus Pallas. Red " 
 
 Arctomys Monax Gm. TVoodchuck, Canada West. 
 
 Mus Decumanus Pallas. Brown Rat. 
 
 " Eattus Linn. Black " rare. 
 
 " Musculns " Common Mouse. 
 
 Hesperomys Leucopus "Wagner. White-footed Mouse. 
 
 " Myoides Baird. Hamster " 
 
 Hypudaeus Gapperi " Red-back " rare.. 
 
 Arvicola Riparia Ord. Meadow " 
 
 Erethizou Dorsalis Cuvr. Porcupine, Canada West. 
 
 Lepus Amencanus Erx. White Rabbit or Hare 
 
 " Sylvatius DeKay. American Rabbit. 
 
 Alces Americanus Jardine. Moose. 
 
 Rangifer Caribou Aud. & Bach. Woodland Caribou. 
 
 Ccrvus Yirgiuianus Bodd. Deer. 
 
 ORNITHOLOGICAL. 
 
 Scientific Name. Authorities. 
 
 Falco Anatum Bon. 
 
 " Columbarius Linn. 
 
 " Candicana (1) Gm. 
 
 " Sparveriua Linn. 
 
 Astur Atricapillua Bot . 
 
 Common Name and BemarJcs: 
 
 Duck Hawk. 
 
 Pigeon Hawk, not very common. 
 Gyr-Falcon, only in winter — fenj' 
 Sparrow Hawk. [rare. 
 
 Goshawk, common. 
 
Appendix. 
 
 191 
 
 mrks: 
 
 nmon. 
 —very' 
 [rare. 
 
 Scientific Name. Authorities. 
 
 Accipiter Cooperii Bon. 
 
 " Fuscus " 
 
 Butoo Borealis Vieill 
 
 " Pennsylvanicus Bon. 
 
 Boteo Linoatus Jard. 
 
 Arcliibuteo Sancti-Johamiis. . Gray 
 
 " Lagopus " 
 
 Circus Hudsouicu3 Vieill 
 
 Aqidla Canadensis Cass. 
 
 Haliojtus Leucocephalus .... Sarig. 
 
 Pandioa Carolinensis Bon. 
 
 Bubo Virginianus " 
 
 Scops Asio " 
 
 Otus "Wilsonianus Baird 
 
 Brachyotus Cassinii " 
 
 Symium Nebulosum Gray 
 
 " Cinereum And. 
 
 Jfyctate Richa":* • nii Baird 
 
 " Acadica " 
 
 Nivea 
 
 Sumia TJluIa Bon. 
 
 Coccygus Americanus " 
 
 " Erythrophthalmus. " 
 
 Picus Yillosus Linn. 
 
 " Pubescens " 
 
 Picoides Arotious Gray 
 
 Spbyrapicns Varius Baird 
 
 Hylatomus Pileatus " 
 
 Picoides Hirsutus Gray 
 
 MelanerpesErythrocephalus.. Sev. 
 
 Golaptes Auratus " 
 
 Trochllus Colubris Linn. 
 
 Cheetura Pelasgia Steph. 
 
 Antrostomus Vociferus Bon. 
 
 Chordoiles Popetue Baird 
 
 Ceryle Alcyun Boio 
 
 Tyrannus Carolinensis Baird 
 
 Myiarchus Ciinitus Cab. 
 
 Sayomis Fuscus Baird 
 
 Contopus Virons Cab. 
 
 Tardus PaUasii 
 
 " Swainsonii Cab. 
 
 " Migratorius Lion. 
 
 Common Name and Remarks. 
 
 Cooper's Ilawk, rare^summer. 
 
 Sbarp-shlnned Hawk, 
 
 Eed-tailed Hawk, summer 
 
 Broad-winged " " 
 
 Red-shouldered Hawk, rare. 
 
 Black Hawk, very rare. 
 
 Eough-lcgged Hawk, not common. 
 
 Marsh Hawk. 
 
 Golden Eagle, rare — Sagtienay. 
 
 Bald Eaglo, aVd^t in the West. 
 
 Fish Hawk, common on coast. 
 
 Gt. Hom'd Owl, not uncommon. 
 
 Mottled Owl, not very common. 
 
 Long-eared Owl, " 
 
 Short-eared Owl, " 
 
 Barred Owl, common. 
 
 Gt Gray Owl, very rare — tcinter. 
 
 Spanow " not common. 
 
 Saw-whet Owl, common. 
 
 Snowy Owl, not common, tointer. 
 
 Hawk Owl, 
 
 Yellow-billed Cuckoo, notcom'n. 
 
 Black-billed 
 
 Hairy "Woodpecker. 
 
 Downy " 
 
 Three-toed " not very commotL 
 
 TcUVbell'd " 
 
 Black Woodcock, rare, 
 
 Barred Three-toed "Woodpecker. 
 
 Red-headed " 
 
 Golden-winged " 
 
 Humming Bird, from May to 
 
 Chimney Swallow. \_Sevt. 
 
 ■Whip-poor-"Will. 
 
 Night-Hawk. 
 
 Belted Kingfisher. 
 
 King Bird. 
 
 Great Crested riy.<atcher, very 
 
 Pcweo. {rare. 
 
 "Wood Pewee, not common 
 
 Hermit Thrush. 
 
 Olive-backed Thrush, 
 
 Robin. 
 
 
192 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 Scientific Xame. Jttthorities. 
 
 Sialia Sialis Baird 
 
 llegulus Calendula Licht 
 
 " Satrapa '' 
 
 Anthus Ludoviciauus " 
 
 Mniotilta Varia Vieill 
 
 Geothlypia Trichas Cab. 
 
 Contopus Borenlis Baird 
 
 Eiupidoaax i< i .imus *' 
 
 " Fiaviventris 
 
 nelminthophaga Kuficapilla. . Bairu. 
 
 Seivirus Awrocapillua S w. 
 
 " Ifoveboracensla N"utt. 
 
 Dendroica Virons Baird 
 
 " Canadenois " 
 
 " Coronata Gray 
 
 " BlackbumioB Baird 
 
 " Castanea " 
 
 " Pennsylvanica .... " 
 
 " Striata 
 
 " (Estiva 
 
 " Tigrina " 
 
 " Palmarum " 
 
 Myiodictes Pusillus Bon. 
 
 " Canadensis Aud. 
 
 Setophaga Kuticilla Sw. 
 
 Pyranga Rubra Vieill 
 
 Hirundo Horreorum Barto 
 
 " Lunifrous Say 
 
 Bicolor Vieill 
 
 Cotyle Eiparia Boie 
 
 Progno Purpurea " 
 
 Dendroica Maculosa Baird 
 
 Parula Americana " 
 
 Ampelis Garrulus Bon. 
 
 " Cedrorum Linn. 
 
 Collyrio Borealis Baird 
 
 Vireo Olivaceuis Vieill 
 
 Solitarius 
 
 Mimus Caroliuensis Gray 
 
 Troglodytes Hyenialis Vieill 
 
 Certhia Americana Bon. 
 
 Sitta Carolinensis Gm. 
 
 " Canadensis Linn. 
 
 Common Kame and .Remarks. 
 
 Bluebird, in the West. 
 liu'oy-crowned "Wren, rare 
 Golden-crested " 
 Tit-lark. 
 
 Black and White Creeper. 
 Maryland Yellow-throat. 
 Olive-sided Flycatcher, rare 
 Least Flycatcher. 
 Yellow-bellied Flycatcher. 
 Nashville "Warbler, rare. 
 Golden-crowned Thrush. 
 "Water Thrush. 
 Black-throated Green "Warbler 
 
 " " Blue " rare. 
 Yellow-rumped Warbler. 
 Blackbumian " 
 
 Bay-breasted " rare. 
 
 Chestnut-sided ' 
 Black-poU 
 Yellow 
 
 Cape May " very rare. 
 
 Yellow Kedpole " 
 Wilson's Black-cap, rare. 
 Canada Flycatcher. 
 Redstart. 
 
 Scarlet Tanager, very uncertain. 
 Bam Swallow. ' 
 
 Cliff Swallow. 
 White-bellied Swallow 
 Bank 
 
 Purple Martin. 
 
 Magnolia Warbler, rare. » 
 
 Blue Yellowback, " 
 Wax Wing ' «♦ ■ » - 
 
 Cedar Bird. ' ' 
 
 Shrike, Butcher Bird. ' 
 
 Red-eyed Flycatcher. 
 Solitary " rare. 
 
 Cat-bird. ' '' 
 
 Winter Wren. '"■ - 
 
 Amer. Brown Creeper. '' 
 
 White-bellied Ifuthatch. > " 
 Rod-bellied " -'i 
 
Appendix. 
 
 io3> 
 
 rliS. 
 
 )ler 
 ran. 
 
 I rare. 
 
 tain. 
 
 Scientific Name, Authorities. 
 
 Pnrus Atricajjillus Lin. 
 
 " Uuclsonic'us Fors. 
 
 Eremophila Coriiiita Boio 
 
 Piuicola Cauadousis Cab. 
 
 Carpodacus I'lirpurcus Gray 
 
 Chryriomitris Trisli^s Bou. 
 
 " Pinurf » 
 
 Curvivostra Amoricaua Wilson 
 
 " Lcucoptom .... *' 
 
 (Egiothua Liuaria Cab. 
 
 Ploctrophaucs! Nivalis Moy. 
 
 " Lapponicns .... Solby. 
 
 Passerculns Savana Bon. 
 
 Posecetes Gramineus Baird 
 
 Coturnieulus Passerinus Bon. 
 
 Zonotrichia Lcucophrys Sw. 
 
 " AlbicoUis Bon 
 
 Vireo Gilvus " 
 
 Junco llycmalis Sclat. 
 
 Spizclla Monticola Baird 
 
 " Socialis Bon. 
 
 Mclospiza Melodia Baird 
 
 " Palustris 
 
 Passerella Iliaca Sw. 
 
 Guiraca Ludoviciana " 
 
 •' Cterulea " 
 
 Cyauospiza Cyanoa Baird 
 
 Dolichonyx Oryzivorus Sw. 
 
 Molothrus Pecoria " 
 
 Agclaius Phmuiceus Yieill 
 
 Sturnclla Magna Sw. 
 
 Icterus Spurius Bon. 
 
 " Baltimore Baud. 
 
 Scolecophagus Ferruginous. . Sw. 
 
 Quiscalus Tersicolor Vieill 
 
 Corvus Carnivorous Bart. 
 
 " Americanus Aud. 
 
 Cyanura Cristata Sw. 
 
 Perisoreus Canadensis Bon. 
 
 Ectopistes Migratoria Sw. 
 
 Zenaidura Carolineusis Bon. 
 
 Tetrao Canadensis ... Linn. 
 
 Bonasa Umbellus Steph. 
 
 Common Name and ReinnrH: 
 
 Chickadee. 
 
 Hudson Bay Titmouse, nirf. 
 
 Shove Lark, Lower aSY. Lawrence. 
 
 Pino Grosbeak. 
 
 Purple Pinch. 
 
 Yellow Bird. 
 
 Pino Finch. 
 
 Ptcd Crossbill. 
 
 White-winged Crossbill. 
 
 llcd-pole Linnet. 
 
 Snow Bird. 
 
 Lapland Longspur, occaaional. 
 
 Savannah SpaiT(>w. 
 
 Grass " 
 
 Yellow-winged Sparrow, rare. 
 
 White-crowned " rcri/ rare. 
 
 White-throated 
 
 Warbling Vireo. 
 
 Blue Snow-bird. 
 
 Tree Sparrow. 
 
 Chipping Sparrow. 
 
 Long " 
 
 Swamp " 
 
 Fox-colcred SpaiTow, rare. 
 
 llose-brcasted Grosbeak, West. 
 
 Blue " rare 
 
 Indigo Bird, West. 
 
 Bobolink. 
 
 Cow Bunting. 
 
 lied "Wing Blackbird. 
 
 Meadow Lark, West — ccmmon. 
 
 Orchard Oriole, West. 
 
 Baltimore " 
 
 Rusty Blackbu'd. 
 
 Crow 
 
 Raven. 
 
 Crow. 
 
 Blue Jay. 
 
 Canada " 
 
 Wild Pigeon. 
 
 Carolina Dove, rare— West. 
 
 Spruce Partridge. 
 
 Ruffed G rouse. 
 
'94 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 iScictiiific Nitmc. Authorities. 
 
 Ardea IIcrotlin>i Linn. 
 
 liotaurui? Lontiginosua Stcpli. 
 
 Butorklos Yircsccns Eon, 
 
 Nj'ctianloa Gfivdcui r>aird 
 
 Cliaradrius Yirpinicus Borck 
 
 OOgialitisi Vopiierus Caf. 
 
 " Mcloilus Cal). 
 
 " Semipnlmalnrt .... " 
 
 Squatarola Ilclvctica Cuv. 
 
 Strcpsilas Intprprcs Illig. 
 
 Rccurviroslra Americana. . . . Gra. 
 
 ninmntopus Nigricollis Vieill 
 
 rhalaropus llypcrborcus .... Temm 
 
 " Fulicarius Eon, 
 
 riiilohela Minor Gray 
 
 Gulliwago "Wilyonii Bon. 
 
 Macroraniplius Giiseu^s Loach 
 
 Triuga Camitus Linn. 
 
 Arqiuitc'Ua Maritiina Baird 
 
 A (• I odroui as Macul at a Cass. 
 
 •' Miuutilla Cones. 
 
 " Bonapartii Casa. 
 
 Calidris Arenaria lllig. 
 
 Eronnctes Pusilla Cass. 
 
 Symphcmia Seuiipalmata. . .. Ilart 
 
 Gambotla Melanolcuea Bon. 
 
 " Flaripes Bon. 
 
 llyacopliilus Solitarius " 
 
 Tringoidcb Macularius Gray 
 
 Pbilonr ^s Pugnax " 
 
 Actitu.us Bartramins Bon. 
 
 Limosa lludsonica Sw. 
 
 Is^umenius Longirostris "Wilson 
 
 •' Hudsonicus Lath 
 
 " Borealis " 
 
 Porzana Carolina Vieill 
 
 Anser Ilyperboreus Pall. 
 
 Bemicla Canadensis Boie 
 
 " Brenta Steph. 
 
 Anas Boschas Linn. 
 
 " Obscura 6m. 
 
 Dafila Acuta Jenyn 
 
 If ettion Carolinensis ........ Baird 
 
 H 
 H 
 
 It 
 
 Common Kumc and Hcmarls. 
 
 Groat Bhio Ilonm. 
 
 Bittern. 
 
 Green Heron, rare 
 
 Night Heron, West. 
 
 Golden Plover. 
 
 Killdeor " 
 
 Piping " 
 
 King " 
 
 Black-bellicd Plover, rare. 
 
 Turnstone, 
 
 Avosct, 
 
 Black-ueeked Stilt 
 
 Northern Phalarope. 
 
 Bed •• rare 
 
 "Woodcock. 
 
 ■WilsouV Snipe. 
 
 Bed-breasted Snipe 
 
 Ash-colourcd Sandpiper. 
 
 Pnrplo " 
 
 .Tack Snipe, Jrvst. 
 
 Least Sandpiper. 
 
 Bonap.artc's " rare. 
 
 Sandcrling. 
 
 Scmi-palmated Sandpiper. 
 
 "Willct, rare. 
 
 Tell-tale. 
 
 Yellow Legs. 
 
 Solitary Sandpiper, rare. 
 
 Spotted 
 
 Kufl', (?) vcrij rare. 
 
 Bartram's Sandpiper. 
 
 nudsoniau Godwit. 
 
 Long-billed Curlew. 
 
 Iludsonian " rare. 
 
 Esquimaux " " 
 
 Carolina Rail. 
 
 Snow Goose, rare. 
 
 Wild Goose. 
 
 Brant. 
 
 Mallard. 
 
 Dusky Duck. 
 
 Pin-tail. 
 
 Green-winged TeaL 
 
Appendix. 
 
 i( 
 
 emarls. 
 
 re. 
 
 'e 
 
 Scientific Name. Authorities. 
 
 Qacrquedula Dispors stoph 
 
 Spatula Clj'poata Uoig 
 
 Cbuulolasimis Stroperus Gray 
 
 Marcoa Americana Stcph. 
 
 Aix Spoiisa coio 
 
 Pulix Ampricana Gm. 
 
 " Mfi"''i Bairil 
 
 " Affiuis 
 
 " Collaris ** 
 
 Bucopliala Americana " 
 
 " Manillca " 
 
 Albeola " 
 
 nistriomicus Torquatus Bon. 
 
 narelda Glaclalif? Leach 
 
 Camptolemns Labradoriurj. . . . Gray 
 
 Mclanetta Yclvetina jiaird 
 
 Pelionetta Perspicillata Kanp. 
 
 Oidemia Americana Swains. 
 
 Somateria Mollissinia Leach 
 
 " Spectabilis « 
 
 Erismatiira Rubida Bon. 
 
 Mcrgus Americanus Cass. 
 
 Scn-ator lJ^^^ 
 
 Lophodytes Cucnllatus Reich. 
 
 Polecanus Erythrorhyucus . . Gm. " 
 
 Suhi Bas.sana Briss 
 
 Graculus Carbo " Qi-^y 
 
 " Dilophiis « 
 
 Thalassidroma Lcacbii Temm. 
 
 ^' Wilsonii Bon. 
 
 Pelagica " 
 
 PufBnus Major « 
 
 Anglorum Temm. 
 
 Fuliginosus strick. 
 
 Stercorarius Pomarinus Temm. 
 
 Parasiticus " 
 
 " Cepphus Lain. 
 
 Larns Marinus J Arm. 
 
 Argentatus Eruun. 
 
 " Glancus « 
 
 Dehxwarensis QyA. 
 
 Chrcccocophalus Philadelphia. Ldur 
 
 Kissa Tridactyla Con. 
 
 Common Name ami Jicmarki,. 
 
 Blue-winged " 
 
 Shoveller L>uck. 
 
 Gray Inuk. 
 
 "Widgeon. 
 
 Wood Duck. 
 
 Coot. 
 
 Black-hoadod Duck, ntrc. 
 
 Little " " 
 
 iig-necked " rare. 
 Whiotler or Golden Eyo. 
 Barrow's " rare. 
 
 Bufllc-hoad. 
 Harlequin Duck. 
 Old Squaw. 
 Labrador Duck, rare. 
 "Wbitc-wingod Coot. 
 Surf Duck. 
 Scoter " 
 
 Eider " Lower St. Lawrence. 
 King Eider Duck, onti/ occas'iial 
 Ruddy " ,•«)•", 
 
 Sheldrake. 
 
 Red-breasted Sheldrake. 
 Uooded Merganser, rare. 
 Pelican, accidental. 
 Gannet. 
 Cormorant. 
 
 Double-crested Cormorant. 
 Leach's Petrel. 
 Wilson's " 
 Least " 
 Great Shearwater 
 Mank's " 
 Sooty " 
 Pomarine Jager 
 Arctic " 
 ::nffon's Skua. 
 Black-backed Gull, rare 
 Herring Gull. 
 Burgomaster, rare. 
 Ring-billed Gull. 
 
 Bonaparte's " ' v 
 
 Kittiwake *' 
 
196 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 Scientific Kdinc. Authorities, Common Namo ami Remarks. 
 
 Storni Wilsonii " ^Vilsou's Tern. 
 
 " Macroum Nauni. Arfttic " 
 
 Colynibus Torqnatns IJrunii. Loon or Northorn Dlvor. 
 
 *' Scptontrionalis. . . . Linn. Keil-throatod Loon, r« re. 
 
 Poclieops Grisoigoua Gray lled-nockod Grobo. 
 
 " Cristatus Lath Crested (irtsbo. 
 
 r.idilymbus Podieops Laur. Picd-billod Grobo. 
 
 Utamauia Torda Leach Kazor-billed Auk. 
 
 Mormon Arctica Illig. Pufliu. 
 
 Uria Grylle Lath Sea Pigeon. 
 
 " Troilo Linn. Murro, m/r. 
 
 " Eingvia Brunu. rare. 
 
 Mergulus Alio Vieill Little Auk, tcintcr only. 
 
 The i)rincipal part of the birds arc migratory, though 
 some of the migratory dunks have been known to remain 
 through the winter. 
 
 I 
 
 At 
 
CANADIAN INLAND STEAM NAVIGATION (OMPANY. 
 
 urLs. 
 
 hough 
 remain 
 
 ROYAL MAIL THROUGH LINE 
 
 von 
 
 ]?eauharnois, Cornwall, Proscott, l^rockville, Ganann(|ue, 
 Kin<i.slon, Cobuurg, Port Hope, Daiiin<;t()n, T(M'.)iUo, 
 
 and JIamilton. 
 
 r^ I>lvi3i't \VitJ>on.t Xriiiiwliipiiioiit. 
 
 ' " ' Irli liwlfiliir-t 
 
 This magniliceut Line is coini)OSC'd ol tlie following Firsl Class Stenmors, viz: 
 OREOIAN [New-Iron] -* - - CAPTAIN HAMILTON 
 
 SPARTAN 
 
 PASSPORT 
 
 MAGNET 
 
 EINGSTON 
 
 CHAMPION 
 
 BANSHEE 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 HOWARD 
 
 KELLEY 
 FAIRGRIEVE 
 DUNLOP 
 SINCLAIR 
 
 [Rebuilll 
 
 Olio of which leaves tin; CAXAL liASlX, Montreal, at 9 o'clock every inoniing 
 (.Sundays excepted) and LAClllN !•; on the aiTivalol' tlie Train Luavin;,' the Honaventiiro 
 Strcot Station at noon for 
 
 IIAi\IILTON AND INTERMEDIATE IM )irrS, ' 
 CONNECTINa AT PRESCOTT AND BROCKVILLE 
 
 AVith the JJailways for 
 
 Ottawa City, Kemptville, Perth, Arnprior, &c. 
 
 At TORONTO AND HAMILTON 
 
 With the Railways for 
 
 Collingwood, Stratford, London, Chatham, Sarnia, Detroit, 
 Chicago, Milwaukee, Galena, Green Bay, St. Paul, &c. 
 
 And with the 
 
 STEAMER CITY OF TORONTO 
 
 For Niagara, Lewiston, Niagara Falls, Buffalo, Cleveland, 
 
 Toledo, Cincinnati, &c. 
 
 The Steamers of this Lino are unequalled, and from tlie coinjileteness of the arrange- 
 ments, i)resent advantages to Travellers which none other can all'ord. 
 
 They pass through ali, tub Haimds oh- thk .St. L.vwiiENCK and the beautiful 
 scenery of the Lake of the Thoksam) Islands by D.wLriiiiT, 
 
 The greatest dispatch given to Freijrht, while the Hates are as low as by the ordinary 
 Freight ISoats. 'fhrough Kates over tho (iroat Western Hallway given. 
 
 Through Tickets, with any information, may bi' obtained of U. SIcLean, at the Hotels, 
 I'eter Farrell, uttlio Freight Ollice, .Canal Basin, and at the Ollice, Ko. 73 Great tit. 
 James Street. 
 
 ALEX. MILLOY, " 
 
 Montreal, 1st May, 1866. Agent. 
 
1866 
 
 PLEASURE TRAVEL 
 
 1866 
 
 LAKE ONTARIO AND BIVER ST, LAWREICEl 
 
 MniiiiM iiipiai^^ um ^nmm^ 
 
 Tho fiplondid Steamers of this Line havinff Ix'nn refitted niid rofumished, 
 will durinp tho Hoason orphMisiiro travel, eoiinneiico daily trijJH between 
 
 NIAGARA FALLS, LEWISTON, TORONTO, 
 
 MONTREAL and QUEBEC. 
 
 FOR RIVER SAQUENAY, TROY, ALBANY, PORTLAND & NEW YORK 
 
 Via Orand Trunk Railway, Lako Champlain. Lake (loorge, Whito andFraaoonia 
 Mountains, and Lako Moinphroiuagog, 
 
 TOUClIINa AT 
 
 CHARLOTTE, OSWEGO, KINGSTON, CLAYTON, 
 ALEXANDRIA BAY, , ., 
 
 (Fishing Grounds of St. Lawrence,) 
 
 PAUSING THE 
 
 Thousand Islands and Rapids of the St. Lawrence and Victoria Bridge by Daylight. 
 
 LcATe Toronto, UnUy, SuudnvB i!icuptt:d, 
 LewlnKm, Dully, " 
 
 Ninimrn, tlnllr, 
 Charlotte, Dnlly, 
 OtiWB(ro, Dally, 
 
 6.U0 A. 
 10.31) A. 
 \(I.M A. 
 
 «.(m 1'. 
 U.(K)I'.l 
 
 ITPlVARUBi ^ 
 
 lidiivo Mnntniil, Dally, Hunduyi excepted 7.30 A.M. 
 
 " ()Kdoni*l.iirKh, Dally, " '' 1.00 P.M. 
 
 " . Tnwc.tt, Dally, " " 1.10 P.M. 
 
 " lliwkvillu. Dally, " " S.I&r.H. 
 
 TOU(^HIN(l AT ALKX. BAY AND CtAYTOH. 
 
 FWiliiK OroundHof tho St. Lawrenco. 
 
 Lean: KirifTBton, Daily, Hiuidays exreiitHl, lO.flO P.M. 
 
 " OhHppi, Daily, " " 9.30 A.M. 
 
 " C'liarliitto, Daily, " " 6.00 P.M. 
 
 Arrlvu at Tiininlu at .... 6.00 A.M. 
 
 " Lowi»t<inat .... tf.soA.M. 
 
 Trains leave NIAGARA FAIVLS and BUFFALO dailj', and connect with 
 Steamers, both at Lewiston and Charlotte 
 
 Tickets can be purchased of M. B. Sheldon, No. 6 Cataract Block, Niagara Falle, 
 M. Randall, 17 Exchange Street, Buffalo, and Clifton House, Niagara Falls, and Owen 
 
 Lynch, Montreal. ..»^«. 
 
 H. N. THROOP, Gen. Supt, OsvvEoo, N. Y. 
 
 M. 
 M. 
 M. 
 M. 
 M. 
 KlngBtfj'n, Dally, Mondayn (ixccjitcd 4.00 A.M. 
 
 TOUCHINa AT CLAYTON AND AI.RX. HAY. 
 
 Fiihlnfr Orounds of tho St. Liiwrtinco, 
 
 laeave BrockrlUo, Daily, Mondayucicuiitud, H.OO A.M. 
 
 ArrlTe at UKdcnaburKh at . • • li.OO A.M. 
 
 And at Montreal, Baiuo day, at . - - i>.U< P.M. 
 
7.30 A.M. 
 1.00 r.M. 
 1.10 I'.M. 
 a.l{iF.M. 
 
 jnco. 
 
 10.00 P.M. 
 9.30 A.M. 
 6.00 P.M. 
 8.00 A.M. 
 U.30 A.M. 
 
 N. Y. 
 
 Til*: 
 
 DAY LliE OF STEAMERS ON THE HUDSON RIVER 
 
 
 NO FREIGHT CARRIED ON THESE BOATS. 
 
 1 1 
 I 
 
 THE CHAUNCEY VIBBARD, 
 
 Cai'T. DAVID 11. 1I1TCI1C0(JK, 
 
 AND THK 
 
 r:::'.' 
 
 m 
 
 DANIEL DREW, 
 
 Capt. J. F. TALLMAN", 
 
 Will nm on iiltcmiito days (Bmulay.s oxoi^ptcd.) 
 
 The OHAUNOEY VIBBAKD Leaving ALBANY 
 
 ON 
 
 MONDAYS, WEDNESDAYS, AND FRIDAYS, 
 
 AND TIIK 
 
 * ' DANIEL, drew; . 
 
 r I . .. 
 
 .v>;..W,' 
 
 t.'y- 
 
 ON 
 
 TUESDAYS, THURSDAYS, AND SATURDAYS, 
 
 MakiiiKtho Prinoipnl Liiniliiit-'-<. viz., 
 
 HUDSON, CATT8KILL, RINEBECK, POUGHKEEPSIE, NEWBURGH, 
 WEST POINT, AND COZZEN'S HOTEL, 
 
 ■, . Arriving in New York in nliout cifrht hours after Iciiviug Albany. ._, 
 
 Thoso Boats wait for tho inoniinp Trains of tho Ronssclaer and Saratoga 
 Railroad, which connect at Whitcliali with tiu' Rtcaiiicrs mi L;i1\c Cliainpluln, 
 (Pas.songer.s by which leave Montreal in tlio ai'tiTiiodii) and wilii tlio Trains 
 from Niagara Falls and tho West by tlie ^Icw York Central Railroad. . 
 
 Pas.senKors by this! Lino are jwrmittod to .stop at Cattskill, AVcst Point, nnd other 
 landinpts, and roauino their journey iit their leisure. Thi.s i.-^ tho only Line which 
 enables passengere to obtain a good view of tho scenei-y on both sides of the liudaun 
 River. 
 
 Tinkoti can be obtained at the OfTiccs of the Grand Trunk Railway Company, and of 
 tho Chaniphvin Transportation Company, where BaBsaKC can he chr kod thnmch and 
 transferred at Albany free of charge. A BaiTKaBe (lt'li\-ery iiic.'i.'*eiit;L'r is flurried on 
 each boat for the purpose of receiving passengers' checks, and on arrival in Now York, 
 for conveying the Baggage to the Hotel or residunuo, &c. 
 
 TTHARVES : 
 
 FOOT OF nAaiII.TOW STREET, A.W.UAX'V, 
 FOOT OF DESBBOSSi: STBEET, (near Cnual.) JSKW YUBK. 
 
 Alkueo YahSaktvoor]), Manager, Alkkkd Whitk, (Ivn. I'anscntjer Agent 
 
 ALBANY, N.Y. 
 
lUE CHtliPUIII m UKE GEORGE. 
 
 THE ELEGANT STEA.MERS OP THE 
 
 CHAMPLAIN TRANSPORTATION OOMP'T 
 
 UNITED STATES .... Capt. Wm. Anderson 
 
 CANADA - - - " Wm. H. Flagg 
 
 R. W. SHERMAN ... - • " Henry Mayo 
 
 '\. "WILL FOKM TWO DAILY LIXES BETWEEN 
 
 Leaving Rous(;'s Point on the arrival of the Monilntr and Evening Trains from 
 Montreal, and making close c(nmections at Whitehall with Trams for 
 
 SARATOGA, SCHENECTADY, TROY, ALBANY & NEW YORK. 
 
 The Moniing Boat Avill make close connections at Tioonderoga with the 
 beautiful Steamer " Miu-ne-ha-ha," passing through Lakk (iiioiKiK. 
 
 The splendid Scenery of Lake (jhampluiu and Luke (ioorge no Tourist 
 should fail of enjoying 
 
 Tickets can beprocured at the Oflices of the Grand Trunk Railway, on 
 board Lake Ontario Steamers, and at the Ticket Offices at Niagara Falls. 
 
 Burlington, Vt., May, 186C. 
 
 HIBAM TRACY, 
 
 General Supt 
 
 SIS'X'.A.JBXjXSXXXIX) 18X8. 
 
 SAVAGE & LYMAN, 
 
 CATHEDRAL BLOCK, NOTRE DAME STREET, 
 
 MANUFACTURKK9 AND IMPORTERS OF 
 
 J E ■\V E IL. L E I^ -"Z- 
 
 In all its varieties and styles, 
 
 Electro-Platod Ware, Dressing Cases and Bags, 
 
 ALSO, 
 
 SILVEB TEA AND COFFEE SETS, JUGS, FITCHEBS. CUPS, TRAYS AND 
 
 INKSTANDS, CASTORS AND CAKE BASKETS, FORKS, SPOONS, 
 
 Slc, &c., &c. 
 
? ( 
 
1866 
 
 1866 
 
 SIS&W9:4il£l€ii SilMli. 
 
 Tlio Staunch and Fast Sailing Steamer 
 
 Caitain FILGATE, 
 Will run daily (Sundays excepted) between > 
 
 MONTREAL & BEAUHARNQiS 
 
 Sho will loavo BEAUHARNOIS at 7.15 AM., and retiiruiug will leavo ihe 
 CANAL BASIN", MOXTEEAL, at 1.00 TM. 
 
 Charges for Faissengers and Freight very Moderate. 
 
 ^4®aii® 
 
 Arraugomeuts have beeu made by which Exciir.sioii Tickets are now issued 
 
 daily from • — 
 
 by Railway, and back by tho Steamer Lotbiuicre. 
 
 The Train leaves Bonaventurc Street Depot at 9.00 A.M. and connects at 
 Lachine Avith tho Steamer, which leaves there at 9.30 A.M., 
 
 SHOOTS THE LACHINE RAPIDS . ... 
 
 (tho linest of the St. Lawrence) ■' 
 
 passes under the mammoth Victoria Bridfre, and roaches Montreal a little 
 
 after 10.00 A.M. 
 
 THIS IS A DELIGHTFUL TRIP. ^ 
 
 «'L.j 
 
 Tickets for the Round Journey 50 Cents, 
 
 to be obtained at the Grand Trunk Kailway Ticket Office, Montreal. 
 
 ( 
 
THE OTTAWA RIVER 
 
 NiiriGlTION COIUPiNH MilL STEilHERS. 
 
 MONTREAL TO OTTAWA CITY DAILY, 
 
 vCv 
 
 'K*"'!'^ 
 
 [Sundays excepted,] 
 
 Stopping at St. Anns, Como, Hudson, Point-aux-Anglais, 
 
 Rigaiid, Carillon, Point P'ortune, Grenville, L'Orignal, 
 
 Major's, Brown's, O'Brien's, Thurso, Buckingham. 
 
 ' ■ ' Th(f Splendid Now Fast Sailing Steamers 
 
 
 PRINCE OF WALES, 
 
 Capt. H. W. SiiKPHKHP, 
 
 gUEEN VICTORIA, 
 
 Capt. A. BowiB, 
 
 A Train leaves tlio Bonaventuro Street Depot every morning [SundayvS 
 excepted] at SEVEN o'clock, to connect at Lachiue with the Steamer 
 " Pkinck of Wales," [Breakfast] for Carillon, passing through Lake St. 
 Louis, St. Ann's Rapids, and Lake of Two Mountains. From Carillon, by 
 Itailroad, to Grenville, join the Steamer " Queen Yiotokia," [Dinner] for 
 Ottawa City. 
 
 Downward the Steamer " Queen Victoria" leaves Ottawa City at 6.30 
 A.M., passengers airiving at Montreal at 4.30 p.m. 
 
 The comfort and economy of this Line are unsurpassed, while the Route 
 passes through one of the most picturesque districts in Canada, and is the 
 most fashionable ft>r t( airists. 
 
 Parties desirous of a pleasant trip can obtain Return Tickets from Montreal 
 to Carillon, valid for one day, at single fares. 
 
 Passengers for the celel)ratcd Caledonian Springs will be landed at L'Orignal. 
 
 PARCEL EXPRESS daily from the Office to Ottawa and intermediate 
 landings. < .,.• , - ^ ,,, .;. , ■ .,., , ; ,^ 
 
 Further information, as well as Return Tickets, may be obtained at the 
 OlEco, Mt^rcantile Library, Bonaventuro Street, (opposite the Bonaventure 
 Building,) at the Bonaventure Depot, or on board the Steamers. Excursion 
 Tickets may be obtained at the Office, or on board the Steamers. 
 
 ;: , c: ! ' R. W. SHEPHERD, 
 
 "- ' President. 
 
1866 TO TOURISTS AND TRAVELLERS. 1866 
 
 NEW AND IMPORTANT ARRANGEMENT. 
 
 GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY 
 
 AND 
 
 OF THROUGH STEAMERS. 
 
 NIAGAEA FALLS TO MONTREAL 
 
 PORTLAND, BOSTON, LAKE GEORGE, SARATOGA, 
 
 NEW YORK, THE RIVER SAGUENAY, 
 
 &0., &G.t &0. 
 
 NO TRANSHIPMENT AT OGDENSBURQH. 
 
 The Only Lino by which Passongors can retain their State Rooms through tho entire 
 Trip, and passing tho Scenery of 
 
 27^ Thousand Islands and Rapids of t/ie St. Lawrence by Daylight, 
 
 ■ This Route possesses peculiar advantages over any other, as by it parties have 
 
 their choice of conveyance between Niagara Fiitls and Quebec over the ■whole or any 
 portion of it, without being obliged to decide when purchasing their Tickets, consequently 
 should the weather prove unfavorable Passenijers may avoid Lake Ontario by taking 
 tho Grand Trunk Road to Kingston, and from thence by one of the above Steamers, 
 making close connections. No extra charge for MEALS and STATE ROOMS. 
 
 Tho only Route to tho TFhlto Kluuntulns by which parties can ascend the t9r» 
 tamed Mount Washington by tho Carriage Road. 
 
 AMERICAN MONEY TAKEN AT PAR FOR TICKETS 
 
 by this Line, which can bo obtained at most of the principal Cities in the United States 
 
 Arrangements have also been made with tho Proprietors of tho Principal Hotels at 
 Toronto, Montreal and Quebec, to take American Money at Far, charging New York 
 liotcl Rates. 
 
 AIiKX. INflliliOY, Oen. Agent,' 
 
 R M. L. Steamers 
 Office, Gt. St. JuniKS Street, 
 
 ,., .. a. MOKTllEAl.. 
 
 v.. B. HAKIIKR, 
 
 Joint Aiient, 
 G.T.R. & R.M.L. Steamers, 
 Kiiinrara FuIIh, N.V. 
 
 C. J. BRVDOE&, 
 
 Mnruigino Directnr, 
 
 Gband Trunu Railwa-k, 
 Montreal* 
 
GRAIVD TRUiVK LIIVE. 
 
 ^t^^^S^ . 1866 
 
 EXPRESS RAIL AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE 
 
 'V.r ,'?■ V !". -y 
 
 
 I»Y TUB 
 
 and the following Large, Commoclious and Fast .Sailiuff Steamers for 
 
 CHICAGO, MILWAUKEE, 8HEB0TOAN 
 
 and other Lake Micliigan Portt!, and for all places in the West and North- West. 
 
 The Stcamhoat Line during the season of 1806 will consist of the undermentioned low- 
 jiroasure, elegantly lifted Tassengur Steamers, one of which will leavo SAUMIAevery 
 
 TUESDAY, THURSDAY AND SATURDAY, 
 
 on arrival of the Grand Trunk Train from the East, and connect at Jlilwaukee and 
 Chicago with all Lines for the West, South and Korth-Wcst. 
 
 Da 
 
 The Boats will run from Sarnia according to the followintj- Table : 
 
 Capt. Koiu:uT Kiciiolson, 
 
 Rlay 5, 15 and 24. 
 July 10, 1!) and 28. 
 Sept. 4, 13 and 22. 
 
 .lune 2, 12, 21 and 30 
 August 7, ICi and 25 
 Oct. 2, 11, 20 and 30 
 
 et TT3JB-, 
 Capt. 11 A. Jones, 
 I.01IVC8 8ARXIA 
 
 Jlay 10, 19 and 29. 
 July 6, 14 and 24. 
 Sept. 8. 18 and 27. 
 
 .lune 7, 10 and 26 
 Aug't2,ll,21and30 
 <Jctober 0, 10 and 25 
 
 SO. O IVX* <3r O 3VC SI xt.°3r , 
 
 Capt. A. GlLLIEB, 
 
 liOiivoN 8%R.\'I.t 
 
 May 8, 17 and 26. 
 Julys, 12 and 21. 
 Sept. 6, 15 and %. 
 
 June 6, 14 and 23 
 August 9, 18 and 28 
 October 4, 13 and 23 
 
 OB. X*. •UV.A.iyJBJ, 
 
 Capt. James F. Snow, 
 licnvos 8AKWIA 
 
 May 2, 12, 22 and 31. 
 Julv 7, 17 and 26. 
 Sep"t.l,ll,20and29. 
 
 June 9, 19 and 28 
 Aug. 4, 14 and 23 
 Oct. 0, 18 and 27 
 
 rassengors can rely upon the Boats leaving as advertised. 
 
 All Vlrat Clam* Tlck<;lH Iik-IikK^ MomIh iind >iliilo Roonis. 
 
 Passengers desiring to travel all rail can obtain Tickets vi.x the Grand Trunk Railway 
 as cheap as by any other I{oute. 
 
 Close connection made at Detroit with all Lines. 
 
 At Kcfreshment Rooms American Money taken at par from Pa-sscngers holding 
 Through Tickets. 
 
 srPBRB HiiKKPiw*;: cars o.ir aix wi«ht trails. 
 
 For Fares, Kates for Freight, and all other particulars, apply to the Agenta of the 
 Grand Trunk Railway Company. 
 
 C. J. BRYDGES, 
 
 Montreal, May 1, 1866. Managing Director. 
 
RICHELIEU COMPANY'S 
 
 Daily Royal Mail t^^ Line of Steameis 
 
 RrNNIN<» BKTWKEN 
 
 TIic Iron Steamer 
 
 QUEBEC . , Capt. J. B. Lauelle 
 
 And Iron Steamor 
 
 MONTREAL . *. . . Capt. RonEirr Nelson 
 LEAVE BICIIELIEU PIER, OPPOSITE JAC(1UES CAP.TIER SPRE, MONTREAL, 
 
 altoruately every Evening at seven o'ckiek clnriug the season, for 
 
 Q XT £3 33 £3 O, 
 
 CAIiMNci AT I.VrERMKDIATE I'OKT.S. 
 
 FIRST CLASS (Muds and open liertliinelndeil) ^'2.'^0 
 
 SECOXI) CLASS - $LOn 
 
 And the side lines of iSteamors running between 
 MONTREAL, THREE RIVERS, AND THE INTERMEDIATE PORTS, 
 
 hniving MONTREAL every TUESDAY and FRIDAY: 
 
 Steamer COLUMBIA, Capt. JosEi-ii Duval, between MONTREAL and 
 TURI'JE RI\'I';RS, calling at Sorel, Maskimmge, IMvicrc du Loup, 
 and Yamaehic'he. 
 
 Steamer XAPOLEON, Capt. Cirvurjis DAVKnrv, between M0XTR1']AL 
 and SOKEJj, calling at St. Snlpiee, Lavaltrie, Lanoraio, ;uid Ecn'thier. 
 
 Steamer CJIAMBLY, Capt. Fhs. Lajioureux, between MONTREAL and 
 CIIAMHLY, calling at A'erehercs, Cimtreerrnr, Sored, St. Ours, St. 
 Denifi, St. Charles, St. Mathia.-^, IJekeil, and St. Uilaire. 
 
 Steamer TERRKROXNE, Capt. L. H. Roy. between MO^'TREAL .and 
 TERRl'^BONNE, calling at JJoucherville, Varcnne.s, and l^acbenaie. 
 
 Steamer L'ETOTLE, Capt. P. E. Ma Lirior, between MONTREAL and 
 L'ASSOMPTIOiSr, calling at Bout do I'lsle and St. Paul. 
 
 For further information apply at the Office, 
 
 203 COMMISSIONERS STREET, 
 
 ''■- J. B. LAMERE, Ge^iem/Afanager. 
 
llClltll JODTIEIIi SIIIIOID 
 
 Tia:i%,EE XDHtBOT ZjIDSTES- 
 
 < :.; 
 
 DETROIT TO CHICAGO 
 DETROIT TO TOLEDO 
 
 AWD 
 
 TOLEDO TO CHICAGO. 
 
 jyi of which connect witli the Trains of the other Roads at above named 
 'it > places, forming the most CoMKOUTAuiiK and Beliable linkfe in the 
 
 *" '' "■*' • ' ' • great routes between the 
 
 £:A.SX AND TTEST, 
 SOtJXH A-lSJy IVORXH-WESX. 
 
 mSTAMGE, FARE AND THIE SAME AS COMPETING LINES, 
 
 and all the modem appliances for the 
 bulkl QONyENIBNCE, COMFORT AND SAFETY 
 
 of rassengcrs, in use on all Trains. 
 
 !o 
 
 LUIUWOUS SLEEPING CARS AND SMOKING CARS, 
 
 '^ ' > • ^^Yi improved ventilators and dusters. 
 
 i>iU !,^' :,V-'^"-''*'^-'^ '-V-3 »».'.•' fct.: . . . ^...lit,.-, , 
 
 THROUGH TICKETS AND CHECKS FOR BAGGAGE 
 
 can bo obtained at the principal Railroad and Steamboat Offices in the 
 United States and Cauadas. 
 
 Chas. F. Hatch, G^f^K Supf. 
 
 C. P. liEtAND, Gen. Ticket Agent. 
 
 Geo. BnEarii, 
 
 Passenger Agt. for Canadas. 
 
Dis 
 
 TI 
 
 J'lSt < 
 
 1 
 
 the 
 the 
 Lui 
 the 
 and 
 
 wbic 
 
TIE Omii ( PIESCITT IIIIIH. 
 
 THE ONLY RAILWAY IIOUTK TO THE 
 
 ©Iff @>W mWWAWA 
 
 th(< Capitpl and Scat of Govornmont of Canada. 
 
 Distant from the St. Lawrence, at Prescott, opposite 
 
 Ogdensburg, 54 miles. 
 
 TH33 PARLIAMENTARY BUILDINO-S, 
 
 J'i8t completed, both fl-om their position and grandeur of ttie surrounding scenery, as 
 well as trom thu beauty of the architectural doaign, are well worthy the 
 
 attention of 
 
 THE TOTJItlST- 
 
 The scenery and natural curiosities of the Upper Ottawa, 
 the beautiful P*alls of the Chaudi^re and of the Rideau River, 
 the Timber Slides, the extensive Water-power, and the 
 Lumbering and other Mills, which are within easy reach of 
 the City, form a combination of attraction not easily equalled 
 and certainly not surpassed in Canada. 
 
 TRAINS ON THE 
 
 '' OTTAWA & PRESCOTT RAILWAY, ' 
 
 which run in conjunction with the Grand Trunk Railway and with the Railways of the 
 
 United States at Ogdensburgh, 
 
 .,, LEAVE PRESCOTT AND OTTAWA 
 
 Respectively TWICE DAILY. - 
 
 >* . - poR PARTICULARS SEE PUBLISHED TIME TABLES. 
 
GREAT CENTRAL ROUTE, 
 
 GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY OF CANADA 
 
 AND UNITED WTATEH JIAIh UOITK FKOM 
 
 DETROIT, MICH., TO SUSPENSION BRIDGE, NIAGARA FALLS, 
 
 AND KUAiNt U KOADS FllOM 
 
 Hamilton to Toronto ; from llarrisburg to Ouvlpli ; 
 and from Komoka to Surniii, 
 
 forming with ita conucotiou« tlio shortust uiul best routo ()utwucu all iioiuts 
 
 EAST AND WE.ST. 
 
 Throo THROUGH EXl'UE.SS TUAINS each wny DAILY, coniiectinK ut Detroit 
 with thu Michigan Central, Micliif^un iSuuthoni, and Di-troit and Milwiinkci' Kailroads, 
 for all points Wi-'st, Nortli-\Vost and Soutli-WosI ; at .Susiiciision HridKi' with tlicNiiw 
 York Ct'utral Kailroad, for all points East, Soiitli-I'.ast and North-east; at liainilloii 
 with tho Koyal Mail Lino of Steamers; and at Toronto with tlio Gruud Trunk Kailway 
 and tho Royal Mail ond American Expross Lines of Steamers for all points on Luko 
 Ontario and tho Kivor St. Lawrouco. 
 
 The only Route via Niagara Falls, and passing directly 
 through the Oil Regions of Canada. 
 
 FARES AS LOW AS BY OTHER LINES. 
 
 Sleeping Cars on Night Trains, and Smoking Cars on Day Trains. 
 
 BAGGAGE CHECKED THROUGH TO ALL IMPORTANT POINTS. 
 
 American Currency taken at par for Through Fares and Sleeping Car 
 Berths ; also for Meals, (fee., at Refreshment Saloons. „ , 
 
 Trains run by Hamilton time, which is 12 minutes faster than Detroit time; 25 
 minutes elower than New York Central Railroad time, and 80 minutes faster than 
 Montreal time. 
 
 Through Tickets by t^is Koiite are for siilc at all tho i)iiucii)al Ticket 
 Offices in the United States and Cauadas. 
 
 THOMAS SWINYARD, General Munafjer, Hamilton, C. W. 
 JAMES CHAKLTOX, General Agent, Hamilton. C.W. ' : 
 
 Evil 
 
 TH 
 
 Off! 
 
 null! 
 gnil 
 tent 
 MO I 
 II 111 
 NOf 
 NOI 
 
 ST. 
 
 sr. 
 
MONTHEAL OCEAN STEAMSHIP OOMP'Y. 
 
 LIVERPOOL, LONDONDERRY, BELFAST AND GLASGOW. 
 
 Every .SATl.llDAV lioiu (iUi;ilK( diirliiK Hiimm.T, and TUIMLAND iluriiiK WiiittT, 
 
 ut howost i'liroM. 
 
 Tile fullowinjr rull-itoworcd Clyde Built Htciiin-lilps roniiKiHo ttiP lli'ct of the Muntrcal 
 Oct'un SIciuiihIiIi) Co. IIknii ,Sti'umilili»x lire not Mirpiiiscd l>y any tilloiit; thoy iir^ coiii- 
 iniiiulcd b^' K''iiili'm''ii of known nliility iinil rxiii'iicnrc, wfm-io cliiiractor in Hiitllcii>nt 
 Kui'Hnl(>u ior tlio best triMitincnt and utmost attention— the average passaxes liuve bei'n 
 ten (Ihvh; 
 
 2'ir>0TonH. .jfr..^ I rKl{i;VIAN, • . atVlOToi.!*. 
 
 iSMt " yi^m^XH^ HKIAilAN. • • 'IW) " 
 
 iHiHt " . ^Ergyjrfdii A IS TIM AN' • avwi " 
 
 l!2iK) " l3P9nPB ACADIAN, - 27U*) 
 
 DAMASCrS - - • ItJiioTonH. 
 
 MUKAVIAX, 
 IIIIIKHNIAN, . 
 NOIiTH AMIdilCAX 
 NOVA StOTIAN, 
 
 C3r Xj -A. S Gl- O -W X> Z X«. XI O fX* . 
 
 t)noof the rollowinK Civile iiiiilt Steun>liiiw leaves «^U I'- KlU; dnrin^ Summer, and 
 l'UJtri..ANl> dnrinK' Winter, about once every two weekn: 
 
 sr 
 
 ST, 
 
 DAVID 
 UKOIKJE 
 
 liidO'l'ons, 
 ]4ti8 " 
 
 ;|'. andkiaV 
 
 Ml. I'AlltlCK 
 
 \\m Tons. 
 . 1408 •' 
 
 TiiiifU'oir Pasmaok ('kutiftcatich nro now granted to parties wishlnff to brlnff out 
 their IrieiidM from l^ii^land, Ireland or Scotland to any part ot'Cannda at very low ratert. 
 The Steani^^hips of the ( anadian Line leave l.i^('rpold every rhiir.'-clay, and Londonderry 
 every Friday, also leave (ilasj^ow once every two weeks— they come' direct to the (jrana 
 'J'runk Wharf, thereby savinj; much inconvenience, annoyance and ex|)enso to pass- 
 (•npfers. The Hafr>,'aKe is checked llirou^jh to destination, and .Siiucial Trains are de- 
 spatched on arrival of .Steamers. The rates of passage are very low, the sea voyaj^e does 
 not average over ten d:iys, and thi> facilities and accommodation f{iven by the Canadian 
 J..ine cannot be surpassed by iniy other line of Steamers alloat. 
 
 ForThroUKli 'J'ieKets, I're-raid Tassatje Certilieates, and every information, apply to 
 
 H. BOUULIKU, Agent, Grand Trunk liuilway. Union Station, Toronto. 
 
 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY, 
 
 II. .1. LI BBY', Treasurer. 
 
 J. U COYLE, G. A., and 
 
 Chief Engineer. 
 
 T. ('. riER.SEV', I'residont. 
 
 Ofllco, LWi Commercial Street, 
 
 I'ortland, JIo. 
 
 LINE OF STEAMERS TO THE EASTERN COAST OF MAINE 
 AND LOWER BRITISH PROVINCES 
 
 by the First Class Sca-goiug .Side-whcelcd Steamers 
 JS'EW BRDX8WJCK Capt. WrNCiiE.STKR 
 
 NEW ENGLAND 
 NEW YORK - 
 
 Field 
 Ciir.snoiiM 
 
 One of these Steamers leaves BOSTON every MONDAY and THUKSDAY Morning 
 at 8 o'clock, and I'OliTLANU tlio same days at o'clock I'.M., for EASfrOUT and 
 ST. JOHN. 
 
 At EASTPORT the .Steamers connect for Calais, St. Stephens, St. Andrews, Wood- 
 stock, and Houlton Stations. 
 
 At ST. .JOHN, for Frodoricton, N.B., Halifax, Difiby, Windsor, N.S., Shediac, N.B., 
 Charlottetowu, (rrinco Edward Island) and I'ictou, N.S. 
 
 LOCAL AOKNTH: 
 
 H. H. KILLEY, Boston, (iEOUuiE HAYES, Eastport, 
 
 C. C. EATON, Portland, THOMAS JOHNSON, Calais, B. ANSLEY, St. John. 
 
 Tourists will lind a trip to the famous ".Salmon-Trout" fishing grounds near Calais 
 very desirable, and tliat to the Lower Provinces for wild scenery and interest in other 
 respects is unsurpassed. 
 
 liiis is the best and cheapest route to all the above places. 
 
PORILAND AND NEW YORK STEAMSHIP COMP'Y 
 
 \A.*. AW^- ! ; !:■. i.4. , 
 
 .'< • ' -.K *. 
 
 "f'r 
 
 The now, fast, and splendid Stoamahips 
 Capt. H. SHERWOOD, 
 
 AND 
 
 
 •'.^,S,"- •« 
 
 Capt. W. "W. SHERWOOD, 
 
 "Will until further notice run as follows: — 
 
 LEAVE BROWN'S WHARF, PORTLAND, 
 
 't% f^:'- - «»' -•. 
 
 ASD 
 
 PIER 38 EAST RIVER, NEW YORK, 
 EVERY WEDNESDAY AND SATURDAY 
 
 At 4 i>. m:. 
 
 ^r:^v: .ru-V hi:ii>y' 
 
 'i'} JA.-,T 
 
 ^1 • r •:.} 
 
 These Steamships are especially adapted for the Route, and are fitted up 
 
 with fine accommodations for passenj^crs, making tnis one of the 
 
 most speedy, safe, and comfortable routes for travellers between 
 
 NISW YORK, MAINE, AIMD CANADA. 
 
 Passage in State Rooms $6— Cabin Passage $5 
 
 MEALS EXTRA. 
 
 X2MEBY St FOX, Agents, Portland, Me. 
 
 H. B. CKOMWELIj & CO., 86 West St., New York. 
 
 J:--'" "i.:y. 
 
'y 
 
 «. 
 
 4i i»Ki 
 
 1866. 
 
 
 PEOPLE'S LINE STEAMBOATS 
 
 BETWE^n 
 
 mmw ¥#mE t ^M^ifi* 
 
 •".-■^ 
 
 TUB SPLENDID STEAMBOATS 
 
 ■-^ % 
 
 
 ST- TO IX 3^ 
 
 AND 
 
 ^J /! 
 
 WILL LEAVE ALBANY EVERY EVENING 
 
 'ti 
 
 (Sunclaya excepted) 
 ON THE ARRIVAL OF TRAINS FROM THE NORTH AND WEST, 
 
 '"'A^- 
 
 '^^1 C-A'-y 
 
 NEW YORK EVERY EVENING 
 
 (Sundays excepted) at 6 o'clock, from the Steamboat Pier * " ' 
 
 No. 41 North River, foot of Canal Street, 
 
 , (South side) 
 
 Connecting at Albany with Railroad Trains North, West and East. 
 
1866 
 
 DAILY LINE 
 
 1866 
 
 FOB 
 
 li^l 
 
 ^ 
 
 The now and magnificent Steel-plated Upper Cabin Steamer 
 
 CriRTSLEE, Mastkr, 
 
 Leaves COBOURG AND PORT HOPE 
 
 Every Day (Sundays excepted) 
 
 ^OJB CHARLOTTE. 
 
 Passengers in the TTniti'd States via Rochester conneet hy Special Trains Avitli 
 
 this Steamer at Charh)tte, arrive at Port Hope and Cobourg alYer a swift 
 
 and pleasant ride over Lake Ontario, in tiniti for Spectial Trains to 
 
 LINDSAY AND PETERBORO', 
 
 and Express Trains East and "West on the Grand Trunk Railway, and also 
 ? for the Royal Mail Line Tlirough Steamern. 
 
 To^ 
 
 Passengers in Canada from all points East, "West and N"orth, hy Rail or 
 Boat, ooinieet witli tliis Steamer at Tort Hope and Cobourg, and arrive at 
 Rochester in time for Express Trains East, West and Soutli. 
 
 THE TABLE AND BAR SUPPLIED WITH THE VERY BEST. 
 
 Baggage at Owners' Risk, unless Book]':d and Paid for 
 
 For further information enquire at the Office on board, or of 
 
 A. M, BROWN, 
 
 .1;\ i I. ., . .. 
 
 I . .'. 
 
 General Agent, Kin(JSTON, C.W. 
 
DfTROIT m MILWI10K[[ RilLROiD. 
 
 Tourists and Pleaisure Seekers will find this a moKt iigreeable Route 
 
 during summer. 
 
 TRAINS LEAVE DETROIT DAILY 
 
 yoR 
 
 Pontiac, Holly, Flint, Saginaw, Owosso, Lansing, Grand 
 Rapids, Grand Haven, Muskegon, 
 
 and points oa tlic East Shore of Lake Micliijjan. 
 
 Milwaukee, Madison, Racine, Kenosha, Prairie du Chicn, 
 
 LaCrosse, St. Paul, 
 
 AND rOlNTS t)N THE M 1 S S I S S 1 1' I'l UIVER. 
 
 Two First Class Sido-wheolcd Steamers, tlie 
 
 DETROIT Capt. McBride, 
 
 MILWAUKEE - - - . Capt. Trowell, 
 
 Built expressly for this Linp, run between 
 
 GBAND HAVEN AND MILWAUKEE, 
 
 Jn connection with Trains on Detroit and Milwaukee IJailroad, and at Milwaukee with 
 Trains on Milwaukee and St. Paul, Milwaukee and Prairie du Chien, and Milwaukee 
 and Chicago Kailroads. 
 
 OOINO EAST 
 
 Trains make close connections with Great Western and Ci rand Trunk IJailways lor all 
 
 parts of 
 
 CANADA AND EASTERN STATES 5 
 
 also with Lino of .Stoanierti for 
 
 BST' For particulars, see Company's Time Tables, to be liad on application at any of 
 the Ticket Ollices. 
 
 Gknerai, Offices, J 
 Detroit, 18UG. ) 
 
 THOMAS BELL, 
 
 General Suj}t 
 
TIE mi lEGIOI OF ClIiDI WEST. 
 
 The Oil District of Canada Ilea in tho peninsula dividing Lalces Ilurou and 
 Erie, in the extreme South-Western part of Canada. 
 
 OIL sprtnvGJ^s, 
 
 a Village of about 2,500 inhabitants, is the centre of tho oil bearing di.stricts so far ae 
 now asccrtaiued, and is di.'^tant from SAKNJ A, un tho Grand Trunk Kailway, about 18 
 miles. The Plank-road between SAKNIA and OIL Sl'KlNGS is tho best in the I'ro- 
 Tiuce, and equal to any upon tlio American Continent. Tho Stages of Messrs. I'kttkk, 
 CoorKB & Co. run in direct connection with all Express Trains on the Grand Trunk 
 Kailway, four times daily, thus atTording I'assongors ample facilities lor reaching the 
 most attractive and productive portions of the 
 
 WONDERFUL OIL REGION, 
 
 There are three principal commorciul centres in the Oil Dii trict, to wit: 
 
 OIL SPRINGS, PETROLIA AND BOTHWELL, 
 
 but Oil is found at ALVLSTON MILLS, [in tho Township of UUOOKK, in large 
 
 quantities, and has been discovered as far East as DELAWAUE. In fact, 
 
 the whole peninsula between Lakes Ilurou and Erie would seem to bo 
 
 impregnated with oil. Tho Townships of 
 
 ENNISRIUEN, BROOKE, DAWN, MOORE, SOMBR.\, EUPIIEMIA and ZONE 
 
 hive been, and are being explored and developed by eager, active men, searching for 
 hidden treasures, and thus far their labors have not been in vain. A'o l^'ell, so far a$ 
 We are informed, has, at yet, been sunk ivithiu the district which has not yielded oil 
 This is more than can be said of any other oil bearing region now known. The oil 
 district of Cakada would appear to be the most productive in tho world. 
 
 The oil of Canada is superior to that of 1'ennsylvania, on account of its greater 
 density; the same quantity, when properly reclined, lasting twice as long for illuminating 
 purposes. Again, tho value of the oil produced in C'anaha may be compared with 
 that of Pkmmbylvamia by reference to the following tables taken from otficial data, viz : 
 
 THE BELATIVE GRAVITY OF THE OILS IS: 
 
 PEN-NSYLVANIA, from 
 CANADA - 
 
 4a-'> to 450 
 
 32'=' to :{8° 
 
 THE PERCENTAGE OF REFINED REALIZED FROM CRUDE IS: 
 •" PENNSYLVANIA .-.-... 48 per cent. 
 CANADA 80 " 
 
 In Canada all business is conducted upon a specie bayis, yet Canadian Oil com- 
 mands at the wells, In Gold, almost as much as Pknn8YL\ ania Oil is worth delivered 
 In the City of New York. 
 
 The Grand Trunk Railway Company have an Agnrt in the Oil region (Gardner S. 
 Cutting, I-^.) located at Sarnia, who is an experienced " oil man," and who will give 
 to Passengers any information required, and atlbrd them all facilities in his power for 
 visiting tho Oil districts of Canada Wkst. 
 
INSURANCE COMPANY 
 
 FIRE AND LIFE. 
 
 ;n/ 
 
 CAPITAL 
 
 TWO MILLIONS STERLING 
 
 FIRE DEPARTMENT. 
 
 Kt'iirly tho Largost Insuranco Company in the World. 
 
 ANNUAL INCOME dBBOO.OOO. 
 
 Invested Funds in hand to meet Claims, over £800,000 
 
 ADVANTAGES TO FIRE INSURERS. 
 
 Tho Company is enabled to diioct the attention of tho I'liblic to tho ?dvantagoe afTordod 
 in this Itraiic)). 
 
 Ist. Security unqnentionablo. 
 
 2nd. Revenue of almost unexampled mnpnitudo. . . 
 
 3rd. Every description of property insured at moderate rates. 
 
 4th. I'roujptitudo and liiberality of Sottloment. 
 
 FIRE DEPARTMENT. 
 
 LARGE LIFE ]50NUSES DECLARED IN 1855 AND i860. 
 Two per cent, per Annum on Sum Assured. ■• 
 
 Being THE LARGEST BONUS ever continuously declared by any Office. 
 
 BOONS TO LIFE ASSURERS. 
 
 Tho Directors invite attention to a few of the advantages tlio ROYAL offers to its Life 
 Assurers: — 
 
 1st. The Ciuarantoo of an ample Capital, and Exemption of tho Assured from Liability 
 of Partnership. 
 
 2ud. Moderate rrcmiums. 
 
 8rd. Small cbarge for niiinafcemcnt. .1 
 
 4th I'ronipt Settlement of (.'liiims. 
 
 f)th Days of grace allowed with the most liberal interpretation. 
 
 6th Largo participation of Profits by the Assured, amounting to TWO-THIRDS of 
 their net amount, every live years, to I'olicies ihcn two entire years in existence. 
 
 II. L. ROUTII, Agent, Mowtreal. 
 MES.SRS. FORSYTH, HELL & CO., Agents, Quebec. 
 
 Mil. n, A. YOUNr, .... .\-^lmfr 
 
 Mil. .rOHN- JMnvsr.EY .... I-rc-t'^^itt 
 
 Mil. (1 1:0. KASTON .... Br,^lfUhl 
 
 MK,S,SRS. ni;.\('0N & MOIUUS - . I'erlh 
 
 Mil. M. W. STUAN(*E - . . Kingrton 
 
 F. IL IIEWARD, Agent, Toronto. 
 
 MTi. GEO. n. nonr.TSTON 
 
 MH. JAMKS MOnCtAN - 
 MB. W. COOTK - 
 MB. R. J. T.ONSOKT-Ti - 
 MB. ANI>IU;\V TJIOM.SON 
 UB. UKNBY J- i'BElL 
 
 Threr }{ii\rs 
 
 ,S'..)vY. 
 ,SV. JiihM 
 l.tnnnrrilU', 
 /;. Ihvilk 
 (Jttnwa 
 
 MB. W. BBLLHOUSl!! 
 
 Hamilton | MR. F. B. BEDflOME 
 
 MB. G. M. GOODEVE 
 
 Zomfon 
 
 Cubottrg, 
 
LIFE AND ACCIDENT. 
 
 THK OKIGINAI, 
 
 ir»tiliw' lii^ttOMje § 
 
 o: 
 
 OF HARTFORD, CONN., 
 
 TNHURES AGAIXST 
 
 ACCIDENTS 
 
 OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, 
 
 CAUSING BODILY INJURY OR LOSS OF LIFE. 
 
 CASH CAPITAL 
 
 $500,000 
 
 With a Surplus of over $100,000. 
 
 Tho Travelleus' Inbi-ranck Comivanv, ov Martforp, Cont*., was the first to 
 ("uccossfully iiitroducu in tliis country tlio piiictici' of Insurance aoainijt Acctdents, 
 of whatever kind, wliether they occur in travelling, or in liunting, tisliinjar, fulling, 
 riding, skating, in the street, store, oHice, or while working in shops, mills, factories, 
 or on the farm. 
 
 A General Accident I'olioy covers every possible form of •asiialty, including tho risk in 
 travelling, also all forms of dislocations, broken bones, ruptured tendons, sprains, con- 
 cussions, cruslijngs, bruises, cuts, stabs, gunshot wounds, poisoned wounds, burns and 
 scalos, freezing, bites of dogs, unprovoked assaults by burglars, robbers or murderers, 
 the i.ction of lightning or sun stroke, the etfects of explosions, chemicals, floods and 
 earthquakes, Kulfocation by drowning or choking. 
 
 This Company has been in successful operation since April 1, 1864, and up to April 1, 
 ISfiO, had issued owr fort i/- /ire ilinusand policies, and paid over fourteen hundred losses 
 —in addition to the large sum of ^O^joOO realized to twenty-nino policy-holders, for 
 §1.542 received in premiums. 
 
 JAS. G. BATTERSOX, President. 
 RODNEY BKNXIS, Secretary. 
 
 CrEO. W. CAMPBELL, M.I)., Montreal, Medical and Surgical Adviser for 
 
 Caiiiulu. 
 
 A. B. CHAFFEE, Montreal, General Agent f(;r Canada. 
 
 JT^ Agencies of the Travellers of IIartforp in all principal to-\vns and 
 cities of the United States and Canadas, where Policies can be obtained 
 without delay. 
 
% 
 
 s 
 
 ST 
 
 LAWRENCE HALL, 
 
 H. HOGAN, PROPRIETOR. 
 
 riiis i i'st<'l;i<a llnicl, tlic I:irpi'>t in Mciitrciil, and uliicli Iuh Iniii,' hci'ii riijai-dpil liy 
 tlio 'rijivcUiii'; rul)li<' us tlif iiii.>l |ici]iiiliir ami l;i>liiii)i:ililr icMirt. i^ .■<iIiKi(('i| (i|)|iiisiio 
 tlic I'tist ( Kl'ici'. iiiiil coiitij/iioiis to the iiaiiKs, I'lciich ( 'iitlinlial or Chiircli N'illr .Marie, 
 llip ('lmm|i (Ic .Mar-i, wlicri' the 1 rixnis arr irvicwyti, and oilier l'ul)lic liisiitiitidiis. It 
 hns Ix'eii uiKler tla; oliiiif.'e of its pre.-eiif l'r(i|irii'li)r for ovev I'.lleen years. A larj^eparfc 
 (if the Hall was eiitr»^;<'d liy llie (ioveriiTiiciil for the Miitc of Ili> l.'oyal Hijfliui'ss tli'- 
 I'riiice of Wales, on his visH to this city. Tho I'roprietor noMld take tliis oj)]ii,itiinity of 
 fhankiiifT his iiiinierous friends for luis'l favors, and to inform tl.i'ni that he has (iurinjj 
 the jKisl uintrr linilt a hir'^e addition to the Hall, ami hoiies in fnl are to be able to 
 iicroininodale all who may lavor his establislimcnt. 
 
 Tclcjiraiihic cominniiieiilion from the He id. 
 
 1^1 IE 
 
 RUSSELL HOUSE, 
 
 [> risk In 
 00 n- 
 
 •ns and 
 rderers, 
 
 ids mid 
 
 ■)it. 
 er for 
 
 THIS ESTABLISHMLNT IS SHI ATKJ) ().\ THE 
 
 CORNER OF SPARKS AND ELGIN STREETS, 
 
 l.\ TIIH \ i:itV CKVTUK OK Till: (•|T\. 
 
 and ill tho iiiuiifdinic mM'trhhtirliooil of tin; riivliaiiicnt iiiul Dcpaftiiieiiliil 
 TJuildiiiffs, liif I'nst otIii(>, llic Ciistdiii lloiiso, tho ("ity Jlall, the Thoatro, th« 
 Ti'lojxra]ih OHif'OS, and llio difloreiit Hunks. 
 
 II is Titled nil and ooiiduclcd with ovciy rofrnnl to fomfort ; and with 
 eoi'taiii I'J.loiisivo additiidi-. wliich will be (■(nnpicti'd in (((doher, it 
 
 WILL ACCOMMODATE NO FEWER THAN 250 GUESTS, 
 
 Thus (•(in-titnlinir it oiii' ol'tlio lat'.irc-t lldtels in Canada. 
 
 JAMES A. GOUIN, 7V^'/;7V/^r. 
 OPPOSITE THE OTTAWA HOTEL, MONTREAL. 
 
 COWAN &, CO.'S 
 
 WlCSt ICNU MAliKRUASHICRY KSTAIU.ISHMENT 
 
 X3X CSrH.EI-A.I' ST."*- .r A-Tia^TJiCi STU-Eiaa'T, 
 
 IS and 
 ;ained 
 
 GENTS' SCARFS, nfl/rS' Hlli GI-OVES, UNDERCLOTHING, HOSIERY, BRACES 
 
 MNCY H-AWNEl SHIRTS, &o, 
 
 WUlLt; UntM» BIIIHM kU\\A)» UN IIANU. on MADE TO ORDER. 
 
PRINTING HOUSE. 
 
 THE Undersigned, having removed into their new and 
 .,^, ', .jh more extensive and commodious premises, have 
 bciii cp-'^led to make great additions to their printing 
 
 maciv;!:ory ^ \d stock of type. 
 
 They have now FIVE STEAM TRINTING besides 
 other kinds of PRESSES, which enable them to strike 
 off a very large number of impressions, with the greatest 
 despatch. 
 
 Any orders sent by mail, from the country, will be 
 promptly attended to, and forwarded by mail or express. 
 
 They have the newest styles of type for handbills and 
 posters. 
 
 They will give particular attention to the printing of 
 legal, municipal and assessment forms, guaranteeing at 
 once despatch and correctness. 
 
 They have recently purchased one of th'"- COUPON 
 PRESSES of Messrs. Sanford, Harroun & Co., the only 
 one of the kind in Canada, by means of which they are 
 enabled to print numbered Railroad Tickets, Steamboat 
 Tickets^ Concert Tickets, &c. 
 
 Remittances from the country in duly registed letters 
 will be at our risk. 
 
 M. LONGMOORE & CO., 
 
 Printing House, 
 3 1 Great St. James Street, 
 Montreal. 
 I