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CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

'"anadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

1980

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La bibliothdque des Archives

publiques du Canatia

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illustre la mdthode :

mmi'

Western Skies,

ill 1868.

BI JOHN H. BELL
«.

" I would now lay a stone in the Temple of Peace."

Edmund Burke'

1870.
PRINTtO FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION.

TO MY FRIENDS IN OLD ENGLAND, I DEDICATE THESE 6LEANINQ8
FROM HARVEST-FIELDS OF REAL AMERICAN LIFE.

t% MERICA is like an alchemist's crucible. Its people

(^ are a fusion of many races. White men rule over red,

black, and yellow men . English, Scotch, Irish, Germans,

French, Italians, Swiss, Norwegians, and Swedes all

meet as citizens. Out of this mass, a race of ** New

Americans" is continually being produced. Past results

lead us to the belief that the future will still yield a

good political "philosopher's stone," in the form or

guise of freedom.

Figuratively speaking, the Western Continent is a

storehouse of national character. On its shelves lie

samples from many lands. Weighed in the balance of

fair opinion, there is a cheering preponderance of sound

grain ; there is some rotten and bad. The observant

traveller holds a "Sesame" to open the doors and

windows of this granary, for his home -staying countiy-

men.

J. H. B.

■f I

]

COnSTTElSTTS.

PART FIRST— UNITED STATES.

1 Outward Bound.

2 Empire City.

3 Long Islard Sound.

4 Political Life.

5 Environs of Empire City.

6 Diamond State.

7 The Pil^rrim State.

8 A Village of Arcadia.

9 The Athens of New England,

10 Connecticut Valley.

11 Northern New England.

12 The Adirondacs.

13 Hudson River & West Point.

14 Empire State.

15 Thunder of Waters.

16 Over the Strait.

17 Eastward Ho !

18 City of Brotherly Love.

19 Maryland.

20 Virginia.

21 The Eagle's Nest.

22 Hanging Gardens.

23 War Trails.

24 Brooklyn.

PART SECOND-DOMINION OF CANADA.

25 City of St. John.

26 Nova Scotia. Ice anr' Gold.

27 River St. John.

28 Camped with the Lumherers.

29 Across the Borders.
5$0 Comisk Gloom.

31 Mediaeval and Modern.

32 Royal Mountain.

33 River Grand.

34 Palace Beautiful.

35 The Golden Belt.

36 Coleur do Rose.

:Ei:K,i;&A.a?^-

No. 8, Page 4 & 5 read " Massachusetts.
e, „ 1, 4, 7, 8, read Do.

18.
IS,

25,
28,
28,
S5,
36,

, i,

„ "Pepperell."

, 8,

„ "chestnut."

. 10,

„ "Hicksite."

. 5*

,, "promenaders.'

, 5,

„ " Breadalbane."

. 7.

,, "Juggernaut's."

. 7,

,, "Saxondom."

, 10,

„ "Young."

}

OUTWARD BOUND.

In the Middle Ages the Venetians claimed the sovereignty of
the seas. They celebrated this triumph by an annual festival.
Attended by a rejoicing populace, with music, and chimes of
bells, the Doge of Venice advanced to the brink of the sea, and
in the name of the people, threw a ring of gold into the Adriatic ;
accompanying the action with these words :—
"Desponsamus te, mare, in signim veri perpetuique dominiu
(We wed thee, sea, in token of our true and perpetual
sovereignty.) But a greater espousal took place between the
Saxon nations and the Atlantic, when the first Steamer passed
from land to land ; still greater when a Cable joined Old World
and New.

iijfVN a bright summer-morning, I bid my kind English
W friends good bye, and embarked for America.
The "Scotia" lay at anchor in the river; her captain
was leaning over, watching us, as the passenger-
tender steamed alongside. Stepping on board, I feel
that the route is now sounded in earnest. Sailors, busy
as bees, are working with a will ; soon hiding a mountain
of luggage deep in the recesses of the hold. From the
chaos of disorder, rises and shines the light of order.
Each officer has donn'd his smartest uniform, and stands
ready at his r)Ost ; going out of port is a gala-day for
seamen, no less than coming in. The bell rings, up
comes the anchor, the engines start into life, the paddle-
wheel- move. With flag gaily flying, we steam down th©

.Mersey ; New Drigbton is passed, Liverpool becomes a
faint speck in tlio distance, the sand-bar is crossed, and
we are out at sea.

The coast of Wales soon looms in sight, where round
the Skerries the surf is ever beating. Abreast of us,
Holyhead breakwater — constructed of stone torn from
the adjoining mountain — rolls back the fury of the Irish
Sea. Behind it smiles a harbour of refuge. Southward
heaves an iron-bound coast ; beneath whose beetling cliffs
the waves sport angrily summer and winter. Under the
lee of Holy Island stands a lonely rock. Furious tides
deny it union with the mainland, but man's devica has
spanned the chasm with a fine suspension-bridge. From
the rock-tower shines out a beacon-light, and gleams of
white roof and wall tell of a coast-guard colony.

With morning comes the sight of Ireland. Right
before us is Bally ?orin lighthouse, standing sentinel-like
upon its island-rock. The coast-line is marked by rising
slopes ; but the meadows of Emerald Isle belie the name
to-day, so burnt and brown do they look under a visitation
of tropical summer Upland corn-fields are golden and
yellow with ripe and ripcaiiig harvest, and potato-ridges
give promise of a plenteous yield. Now we have entered
tlie harbour, and anchored off Queer stown. Far up the
cove, church- spires struggle through morning mists and
point U8 to the fair city of Cork. Sunday chimes come
poaling from the land, but we may not step on shore in
answer to the summons.

A postal officer, in faultless attire, resigns into our
charge the latest mails. His comrade on board, who is
rosponsible for their safe-keeping during the voyage, tells
me that he has crossed the Atlantic upon the same errand
260 times 1 Our captain takes leave of lady friends and
8teps on to his noble vessel. Telescope in hand he

hi)
1(

tui

mounts the bridge ; wo think no worse of him because
his eye is misty for a moment at the thought of once more
leaving home and kindred. The "Scotia's" prow is
turned to seaward ; her mighty |[enginea — roused to action
— urge her onward

With willinp^ steps to tho wild ocean.

We are leaving behind us Spike Island with its convict-
colony. Above us fro\7n fortifications, parterred with
gleams of scarlet uniforms, and gay with floating folds of
our nation's banner. As we pass by, there is still "nothing
for nothing" (for us) at the port of Kinsale. "We are
taking a last look at martello-towers and ancient ivy-
covered ruins. Distance is merging into indistinctness
cottage, ruin, and tower, gold of cornfield, and green of
meadow. For the grim "Stag Eocks" there is never
peace, not even on this calm bright Sunday. They seem
to stand as perpetual martyrs to an ocean's fury, doing
penance and making atonement for tho f-lns of the
mainland. "We are close upon that point of Kerry where
the deep sea-cable joins the Englands, old and now ; the
lighthouse beacons gleam out brightly — Cape Clear looms
forth gloomily — and old Ireland is lost to sight.

Our ocean-life is very pleasant. In this Loble steam-
ship are gathered round us many of the elements of
home-enjoyment. A cabin airy and central — meals
served with nicest regularity — sheltered decks, clean and
white as holy-stone can make them — boundless atmo-
spheres of ozone from the ocean — books for readers —
companionable fellow-passengers — skillful officers and
hardy sailors — the landsman lacks nothing but " terra
firma." Atlantic breezes give us appetite for the
good and generous fare. We are peeping daily into
nautical science after the manner of freshmen. The

engineer will lead us to the regions of his magician-
powers ; lower still we nay descend, and feel the furnace-
glow. Calm evenings call forth the sailors' songs and
sports. Many a rough voice will swell a chorus ; many
a strong man unbend in play. As darVness falls, lighted
ca»-«^'es are introduced iuLo the saloon; then in pleasant
chat, and intercourse with old and new-found friends, our
cosmopolitan company whiles away the evening hours.

Come up and take a turn on deck with the officer of the
watch. The constellations shine out with marvellous
distinctness ; the dark ocean below is fretted with curling
crests, and glints of shaded silver. These flecks of shifting
brightness remind us of imagined ghostly lights and
water-spirits of Indian superstition. In mid-Atlantic a
south wind brings a show of phosphoretic light upon the
sea ; then the wake of the ship looks like a trail of flame.

Looking over the bows, where the waves are fiercely
sundered by the rushing steamer, we see little fishes
darting about with luminous tracks like fire-serpents.
Now, a rocket belted with blazing fire, is thrown up by a
passing ship ; but in a moment this symbol of ocean-
courtesy has vanished,

And like an unsubstantial pageant faded,
Leaves not a rack behind.

When you go to rest at night, you know that all through
the dark hours, brave men will be on duty at their posts.
With moments of wakefulness will come the sound of
watch-bells, and the cheery " all's well" of the watchers.
On Sunday we gather for worship in our ocean-church ;
a reverent congregation fills the large saloon, the captain
reads the service of the Epist pal Church and all join
heartily in the singing. The beautiful prayers iuteuded
for use at sea acquire a special solemnity.

It is not always calm. Lashed into pitiless fury by the
winds the sea will rage and sweep our decks, but neither
ship nor seamen flinch. Up to their necks in wator stand
the helmsmen ; shut in below, as in a prison -k the
engineers ; thoy think not of danger, but steadf .ly keep
the ship on her course across the trough of the sea.
The French line of Atlantic steamers is said to be gaining
favor with American passengers on account of its
superior cuisine. The German steamers crossing the
Atlantic, are also second to none in comfort, and efficient
handling. But in a storm all my predilections are for a
British ship and British sailors. My countrymen have
proved their Scandinavian and Saxon blood by their sea-
going qualities. Emerson said, — "A sea-shell should be
the crest of England, not only because it represents a
power built on the waves, but also the hard finish of the

men.

After a run of seven or eight days we are near to the
*'banks"ol Newfoundland. These famous fishing-grounds
—with which we made a slight acquaintance through the
medium of geographies in school-boy days — are now
spread out before ns. Beneath the dark green waters,
below the influence of restless tides, there is gathered a
storehouse of finny treasure, which is ever inviting man
by his enterprise and daring to secure it. At day-break,
as darkness rolls away, the fi.<^hing fleet is revealed, like
a great navy riding at anchor. All round the ships lie
small boats, with their lines out, probing the sea for prey.
The smell of curing fish makes us aware of the occupation
of those who are on F^ipboard. During fogs which often
prevail here, the sailors of the fishing fleet have reason
to tremble for their lives. A mile off, they hear the thud
of paddle-wheels as a great ocean-steamer comes along,
but, in an atmosphere of worse than Egyptian darkness,

they know not which way to turn to avoid the danger.
In their alarm they fire guns and ring bells, yet some-
times their signals come too late, and a poor fishing-craft
is run down and sunk with little possibility of escape.
The rights of these fishing grounds are defined by treaty,
and are open to several nations.

We are now in 65° north latitude, the region of the
pteppes of Lebrador, Cold winds from the ice-fields
come sweeping down, making us think of Christmas -
storms at home. It is a desolate region. For 8 months
ill the year winter reigns supreme. Solitary trading-
posts of the Hudson's Bay Company occur at long distances
apart. An acquaintance of mine aad the opportunity of
visiting one of them. He happened to be on board a
steamer bound for the straits of Belle Isle. During a fog
the ship swerved from her course, and went aground on
the shores of Labrador. "When day-light dawned, the
astonished passengers saw before them a small settlement
enclosed by a wooden stockade. Within it were a few
log houses, and a long building or shed for the store ;
from the dwelling of the commandant floated the British
flag. Away to north and west stretched the dreary
Siberia of America. Here are found the wild animals
whose skins are so highly prized in Europe, and here in
quest of them,

Fur-clad hunters wander
Amid the Northern ice.

You would think so lonely a life to be insupportable ;
yet here among voyageurs and hunters, are found light and
cheery hearts, and natures that know no fear.

To return to our ship ; so cold is it there, that we feel
certain that icebergs are near, and we are on the look-out
for them. Thero is a terrible solemnity in the sight

when the ice-floes pass by. This spectacle of gloomy
grandeur is described in the "Ancient Mariner,"

And now there came both mist and snow,

And it grew wondrous cold,
And ice, mast-high, came floating by,

As green as emerald.

Cradled in the frozen north, these icebergs are cast loose
from their moorings by the action of a summer-sun, and
come floating down to temperate seas. Even before they
are seen, their presence is indicated by a bluish haze
which hangs about them, and isdiscernable on the darkest
night. They are very dangerous, yet steamers gen-
erally pass through them at full speed. When en-
countered by night, navigation through an ice-field is
attended with far moro difficulty than that of the Argo
"running" the fabled Symplegades. Upon one of her
voyages " out," the " Scotia" ran into an iceberg, but
was mercifully saved from disaster. Her passengers went
down into the cabin, and gave thanks to the Providence
which had shielded them in a moment of peril. Some-
times this progeny of the north covers the ocean for
miles. One who was an eye-witness told me of a whole
day being spent in penetrating a labyrinth of ice. If;
was a sight of such grandeur to be witnessed perhaps
only once in a life-time. Some blocks, square and massive
like a fortress of olden time, with curtain and ravelin ;
others with pinnacle and tower pointing upward like a
church-spire, or a lighthouse set in the sea. Far up their
furrowed gullies shone the summer-sun, striking as by
magic from their flinty sides the rainbow's colors. Hero
one might feast the eye upon a "valley of diamonds." The
shafts of yellow light deepened into rosy crimson, and as
ihe sun went down he stamped the scene as golden. The

gleam of diamond fades, the rosy light grows dim, the
green sea darkens, the blue-fringed peaks are deepening
into purple as night closes in, leaving behind the
wondrous vision floating southward.

Our experience of sea-life must yet receive the
baptism of fog. After passing Cape Eace, we are all at
once in the regions of the "mists of the mighty Atlantic."
Arctic currents striking upon warm waves from the
Gulf-stream are the cause of these fogs. All round is
closed in with impenetrable folds of grey. A chilling
mantle gathers over the ship, after the fashion of a spider
doubling on its prey. Still there is no surrender to its
influence, no abatement of speed. There is a weird sound
in the shriek of the steam- whistle, which is blown on deck
every few minutes. Hourly the sailors cast the sounding-
line. As the iron probe comes up from the bottom, it is
incrusted with minute particles of sand and shells which
indicate the geology of the ocean-bed. A leathern bucket
is frequently lowered into the sea, and its contents — tested
by the thermometer — assure us that we are in the ridge of
the Gulf-stream current. For 36 hours no "observation"
can be taken from the sun, and the ship is kept on her
course by dead-reckoning and frequent soundings.

Nantucket Island shoals are safely passed, and then
come certain signs of neariug land. Seaweeds ^ire seen
floating from shore. As in the days of Columbus, these
fantastic tendrils of the deep were to him signs of promise,
so they are to us an earnest of desire accomplished. In
broad daylight we steam between Long Island and New
Jersey. At Sandy Hook a pilot comes on board ; he takes
us past Staten Island with its charming villas, and green
lawns, cool and English-like, through the "Narrows,"
right under the teeth of "Parrotts" and "Rodmans"

then
seen
these
mise,
In
New-
takes

which compose the armament of Fort TomkinSi into New
York Bay,

A newspaper boat meets us long before we enter port,
the dispatches from Europe are secured, and it is then
swiftly rowed away. As the result of this celerity, when
we sit down to dinner at our hotel, the latest edition of
the Tribune will be placed in our hands. In its items of
ship-news will be announced the "Scotia's" arrival, and
in the list of her passengers we shall find our own name
recorded.

Visits from oflBcers of "customs" and "health," do not
detain us long, and no quarantine is required. We land at
.^ersey City, cross the ferry, and are soon established in our
quarters at the St. Nicholas. Our fellow-pasengers
scatter to the four winds of heaven. Some we shall see
again in their own homes ; others, we part from with a
long farewell, pleased with their courtesy, grateful for
kindness and glad at heart with store of information
gathered during intercourse and conversation with them.

On a " Cunarder" one meets many angles of humanity,
which stand out in clearer relief, when contrasted with
the plain surface and rounded corners of society at home.
I may strike off a spark or two from this anvil of variety.
That old man is a Captain from New Bedford ; he can
relate many a tale of whaling-adventure worthy of being
dramatised in another " Sea Lions." This young fellow
ran the blacade at Wilmington, in a steamer that fairly
went " hop, skip and jump" over the water in her
eagerness to escape Federal cruisers.

Another passenger told me of a "rescue" which he had
seen effected on the wild Atlantic. When the ship's
company had gathered for service in the saloon on Sunday
morning, there arose a cry of alarm from the watch.

Rushing on deck, passengers and crew witnessed a
heart-rending sight. Some little distance away lay the
wreck of a timber- ship, through which the sea was
making a complete breach. On a small space of foothold
were standing 11 men, a boy, a woman, and a Newfound-
land dog. Thes poor creatures had been imprisoned
thus for three days, and had been kept from starvation by
eating raw apples. A barque had been sailing round the
ill-fated ship for two days, but the waves were so high
that her crew could render no assistance. Cunard
captains have strict orders never to halt their ships,
except to repair damages or to save life. This was a case
of real urgency, and the engines of the good steamer
" Canada" were stopped. Th - barque was directed by
signal to move out of the wa> When the shipwrecked
crew saw this, they cried out i disppir, thinking that
they were to be abandoned. A boat was manned by
volunteers from the " Canada" and lowered into the sea.
The peril was awful. The tough oars bent like willows
beneath the fury of the waves. It was indeed a *' forlorn
hope." But stout-hearted men were in that boat, and its
course was watched over by Him who stilleth the waves,
and holdeth them in the hollow of His hand. I need not
detail the scene further, except to say that all were saved ;
their deliverance being aided by the faithful dog which
plunged into the sea to carry a rope to the men in the
boat, when they could approach no nearer to the sinking
vessel. The captain of the timber-ship was among the
first who wore taken off by the " Canada's" boat ; when
on a subsequent journey the dog was also saved, it
bounded through every room until it found out its master
in a berth, and then laid down by his side, content.

That band of young Americans who are singing so
heartily "Vivelamort" as we near the land, have one

and all borne rifle and knapsack during the war. I might
delineate many other "characters "among our pasBengors.
Captain B. of the English Guards is bound across the
western plains to San Francisco. He is lured to thia
adventure by hoy.e of, sport v.pon the prairies, and bv
the fascination or "magic influence of foreign lands.''
General W. the Austrian fgovenror of Trieste has come
to study American institutions, and a great English
preacher is en route for his new "cure of souls" in a
Canadian parish. A merchant of our acquaintance is od
his way to St. Louis, and a Georgian planter to his cotton
and nee lands in the sunny South. I also have a vocation ;
It 18 entered upon gladly. For a while my home wiJI
b© in a "Greater Britain"—

"Farewell, old life, and welcome new!"

i^r

EMPIEE CITY.

OT a word too much has been said in praise of
American hotels. They are palaces of luxury and
comfort. An American lady, fresh from a year of European
life — said to me, '*0h, it is so pleasant to reach New York
again and to have the comfort and style of our own hotels ;
I have so missed them abroad." I dined with my friends
the Howards, and later in the evening was taken for a
stroll down Broadway. On returning to the hotel, an
acquaintance from Mississippi said, "There is no doubt
the Yankees have a glorious country and are a wonderful
people." I found out the truth of this from day to day
in my progress through America.

I had not been long indoors before I heard that ominous
hum, which proclaimed that the mosquito dwelt and
persecuted in the land. The excessive heat in the city
was something fearful to be endured . Many persona
dropped down daily in the streets from sun-stroke; and so
great was the mortality amongst horses, from the same
cause, that passenger conveyances were scarcely to be
had. I rose early in the morning to write letters for
the out-going steamer ; yet even at that time, before the
sun was high, large beads of perspiration stood on my
forehead. A simple plan, viz : keeping a wet cloth or
handkerchief on the head, within your straw hat, is an
effectual preventive of sun-stroke.

It felt strange to be waited upon at breakfast by a band
of stalwart Irishmen ; especially to observe one of their
number making a progress through the room, fanning

each gnesfc in tnrn with a foathered wand. It seemed a
practice more akin to the luxury of an jient Rome, or of
Moslem Caliphs, than one indigenous to Republican
Kew York, I need not say that every luxury in season
was f-nread upon the table. The one aristocracy which
is re )gnised in America — as it is all the world over —
the aristocracy of wealth, understands well the science of
good living. There is ice from northern lakes to cool
our drinks. Though sherry is rare, and good port is not
to be had, sparkling champagne and excellent claret will
supply their places. The daily carte includes sweet
green corn ; game from western prairies ; from Louis-
iana the pine-apple ; cranberries from the fruit-farms of
New Jersey; peaches from Michigan; grapes from Ohio ;
and when we sojourn here later in the year, we shall
luxuriate in the finest and most delicious oysters which
the beds of the Chesapeake can furnish. In fact, the
science of gastronomy is studied in America no less than
in England and France. All the year round, this con-
tinent of many climes sets before its citizens, a bill of fare
ample and rich.

I was prepared to expect " great things" from these
palatial hotels — but as the Queen of Sheba said of
Solomon's magnificence and kingly state — the half had
not bee . told me. No footfall is heard on the soft-
carpeted floors; we notice gilded mirrors and the frequent
gleam of marble. Sprightly ladies in dainty morning-
dress, are sunning themselves in alcove and boudoir, while
their lords are reading the papers and conversing in the
pillared hall below. As the manager conducted me r'»und
this republican palace, explaining with great urbanity the
privileges which his " thousand and one" guests exp Bcted
and obtained at his hands, I was able to appreciate and
share in the delight which la "belle Americaine had evinced
the previous afternoon.

With Mr. Howard as my cicerone I sallied out into the
city. As we were crossing from one side of Broadway to
the other by an elevated bridge over the roadwaj , a sign
brought us to a stand-still. From a side window a man
was blowing a trumpet. When we on the bridge had
complied with his summons so far as to "stand at ease"
in the positions we happened to hold at the moment, he
quickly turned towards our group, a camera in place of
the trumpet, and in a moment the sun had given the
photographer his desire. Turning round and smiling,
Mr. H. said to me, ** Don't forget to tell your friends at
home of this Yankee trick." When, months after, I called
upon the artist, he was able to bring forth from his stores,
a picture of the identical group which stood on the bridge
that memorable morning.

We entered the city-hall. I pictured the scene which a
young friend was describing — drawn from the life — how
the body of Lincoln lay here in state ; how his fellow-
countrymen pressed round in endless rank, to look upon a
martyr's face and drop a tear of sorrow for the d(;ad. In
the square adjoining, during the war-time, stood wooden
huts for newly-enlisted soldiery, who generally passed
one night in the centre of New York and next day were
hurried oflf to the army in Virginia. Here too was held
that famous fancy-fair. 'Twas not for intercourse or
merriment that people thronged its precincts ; 'twas not
for barter or exchange. On this spot the Angel of
Charity was invested with substantial guerdon ; hither
flocked a patriotic nation to offer gifts — gifts which should
be borne away on wings of healing help to suffering
soldiers. These scenes have pa>ssed away. In the same
square to-day, poor idlers are sleeping, as you will see
them basking in our own Hyde Park.

Every one visiting New York must be struck witli the
cosmopolitan look of city and people. Down Broadway
rushes a tide of hurrying feet, as eagerly as in our old-
world Strand or Cheapside. At many points the architec-
ture of its buildings will vie with Eue Rivoli, or the
stately palaces on the Neva. At the crossings — in loose
white coats and Panama hats, intent on politeness to lady-
pedestrians — stand its grenadier policemen. Each man
has been chosen with as much care as if some royal hand
at Potsdam had signed an order for the work. Up and
down the level roadway ply Broadway's own carriages.
You enter the cushioned omnibus, no conductor is there
to take your fare ; you must hand up the money to the
driver, who, clever man as he is, will at the same time
liold the ribbons and hand your change through a little
jDorthole nt his side. Among the archives of Yale College
I was dhown a map of New York as it was in 1760. Its
great thoroughfare had then an existence, but how
different from the Broadway of to-day I Horse-cars
running on rails, are not permitted in this favoured
street ; but all other parts of the city are traversed by
them, and they have become an institution in all American
cities. Railways encroach upon the public highway ;
locomotive engines — with alarm-bell constantly sounding
and trains of cars behind them — move along avenue and
street, and no one seems to object. Everything here
bears the stamp of some originality and much ingenuity.
Things are lilce yet unlike old England ; I can only call
them by their owa honest name, — "American,"

Let us glance at the negro-quarter and the dwellings
of the Irish, in streets adjoining the wharfs and piers.
"We shall find them a sad contrast to the wealth and
splendour of Broadway. Here, as in every sea-port town,

the poorest population and the most wretched dwellings
are found iu the neighbourhood of harbour and shipping.
New York is essentially a sea-port. Its bay forms a
secure, land-locked haven, and as the tide rises and falls
only 6 or 8 feet, no docks are required. Slovenly
inexpensive piers or landing-stages of wood, take the
place of granite basins and sea-walls which are the wonder
of Liverpool and Marseilles. A stroll through Canal-street
will remind you of an ancient German town, save that its
houses lack the quaint angular gables which mediaeval
builders delighted in. A few old-fashioned wooden
houses still remain. Here and there is a trace of " Mein
llerr Van Winkle's" times, when the Dutch possessed
Manhattan's land ; but the principal building material is
brick ; and the architecture such as existed before the
" five orders" were thought of. Semi-thriving trees line
the pathway, but they will never acquire the umbrageous
qualities of their kindred in New England towns. The
sun shines down with pitiless severity upon badly paved
and dirty streets, making us long to be away to cooler
and more inviting regions. "We come upon a large mass
of ruins, black and fire-riven — the handiwork of rioters,
who during the war-times would fain have sacked the
city. In the very midst of all this poverty and ruin, the
eye lights upon a vision, as welcome and reviving as an
oasis in the desert. A box of growing flowers is set
before a narrow casement. The sight carries us back to
the south of France, where, in his little room the Lyons
weaver plies his shuttle and looks upon his pet flowers in
^he window. Close at hand is a humble shop ; within it
hang hundreds of cages, whose tenants are pretty singing
canaries — canaries brought from far-ofif German father-
land to sing for the New- World dwellers :

I gazed and gazed, and little thought
What wealth to me the show had brought, —

yet passing onward, remember gratefully that behind
every cloud there is a silver lining ; in the dreariest
purlieu of the sinning city, men see a fair creatiuu and
hear the voice of nature. We will take this sight of bird
and flower as an omen bright with p:'omise for our
sojourn under "Western Skies ;" boari.ig in mind a
saying of Schiller's,

ALLER ANFANQ I8T HEITER, DIE 8CHWELLE 1ST DER PLATZ DER

EHRWARTUNQ.

I was introduced to Mr. Horace B. Claflin, the head
of one of the largest merchant-concerns in New York.
Mr. H, said, "I have brought Mr. B. from the land of
the Dukes, to show him in an American, in yourself, the
union of so much wealth and so much modesty," Mr. 0.
is an estimable gentleman, retiring and unassuming in
disposition. He sat at his bureau, at one end of a large
counting-house full of workers on manuscript and ledger.
With a few kindly words he made me welcome to wander
at will through his vast and thriving store. Throngs of
customers are passing in and out continually. A sentinel
stands at the door, and quietly has his eye upon each
arrival and departure. If you carry a parcel when you
enter, he ' '11 ask to mark it, so that you may take it out
again. One fact struck me as particularly pleasing, viz :
although Mr. Claflin is so much engaged in business, he
is to be found regularly at his post in the Sunday School.

The stores of Messrs. A. T. Stewart & Co. are still
larger than the one we have just left, and enjoy quite a
national celebrity, Mr. Stewart was from home, but his
partner did the honors of their business-mansions.
(Some of our large firms at home would be astonished to
know the amount of business turned over yearly by either
of these Trans- Atlantic merchants.) The north of Ireland

is the native place of the founder and chief partner of thi
House. Early in life he made New York his home ; ho
has been wonderfully prospered there, and his business
now yields a more than princely revenue. Mr. Stewart
is an earnest advocate of "free trade." He has recently
received a distinguished mark of honor, in being invited
by President G. mt to the Council Board at Washington,
as.Secretary ol n a Treasury. It was discovered that an
ancient statute, debarring a trader from oflBce, was still in
force ; so the rich merchant was unable to assume the
port " lio and seals of State finance. He is however doing
a good work in a more private manner, viz. : building a
home to accommodate 1,500 poor girls. He has also
attempted something in the spirit of cathedral-builders
of the past, as witness the following announcement,
(September, 1869.)

"The completion of Mr. A. T. Stewart's marble palace at a
cost of over thruo millions of dollars is an event which has been
anticipated for some ten years. The whole house, inside and
outside, is of the most beautifully carved marble, much of which
was imported from Italy. • It is the finest building in the New
World, and is said to rival many of the Royal Palaces of Europe.
It has been so arranged inside that the rooms can be thrown into
immense halls. Rumour has it, that at his death Mr. Stewart
will present it to the city of New York as an art gallery. He is
adorning the walls of the rooms with the finest pictures he can
procure at home or abroad. As he has no heirs, it is probable
that no one but himself and his wife will ever be permitted to
live in the Stewart Palace. The fence which surmounts the
lawn is of massive white marble, and contrasts beautifully with
the rich green velvet of the turf."

Now said Mr. H., **1 will introduce you to some
Ya/rikee friends. I saw you taking stock of a man on the
steamer ; he was a New York rowdy. Banish him from

your mind, he is no sample of the u^tright and downright
Yankee." Very cordially these specimen-gentlemen
received us, and many were the questions they asked
about old England. They were very much like our
indefatigable business-men at home. Only once a year,
will either partner allow himself a holiday, and then a
week of Catskill mountain air makes up the tale of
recreation. We left them, for an obscure office in "Wall
Street, bearing certain credentials to a money-broker
there. Mr. Mott, the genius of this cell, was scrupulously
upright in his transactions with us ; we came away with
an exchequer of Bank scrip and Government "green-
backs " in place of our bright English sovereigns. One
result of the many changes brought about by the war has
been to bind all the Banks to the Central Government as
creditors for loans advanced ; on the other hand, the
Government guarantee stamps each local note as current
in every State of the Republic, excjpt California, which
has never veered from specie currency.

From a large granite building in Wall Street floated
the United States flag, with stripes downward, indicating
War Department jurisdiction. Over a similar public
building the flag was disposed so as to give the stripes
a horizontal inclination, distinguishing this as a
department of revenue and customs. T'ae offices of
Messrs. Brown Bros, and Co., the bankers, also front to
the treasure-street. Close at hand are the head-quarters
of an Ocean Steam-ship Company, who are enjoying a
world-wide reputation. A precedent, copied from ancient
Amsterdam, has suggested the effigy, cunningly carven,
of a ship in full sail placed over the portal, as emblematic
of the calling of the House. It is a very modest symbol
by the side of the Titanic-bronze in which Mr. Vanderbilt,
the American railway-king has monumented himself over

a freight depot entrance. Wall -street riches are defended
at night by light. "When I have passed up from the
ferry late in the evening, there has been a glow of bright-
ness from basement to attic. Through unshuttered
windows you might see bowls of coin ; but rendered
inviolate by the presence of imitation sunshine, they were
as safe as if a soldier-guard had been watching over them
in Threadneedle-street. It is but a step from the
American Lombard-strest to the Gold Exchange. There
among "bulls and bears" of finance, and buyers and
sellers of stock, you will witness scenes of panic and
excitement, transcending any similar display in London
or Paris.

The ^Express Companies' cenUe in Broadway, and seem
to enjoy a monopoly in the transport of America's mighty
commerce. The Post-Office of New York is an old-
fashioned, inconvenient building ; a lesson might well be
taken from Washington in the construction of an edifice
befitting the requirements o!" Empire City, f I visited the
offices of the "Tribune," the newspapor conducted by that
remarkable journalist, Mr. Horace Greely. With all his
excellencies, he errs in our humble opinion by supporting

f The United States has commenced the erection of a great
Post Office in New York. It will cover the whole of the lower
trnd of the City Hall Park. Thus the ^ast public park iu the
lower end of the city has been given up for business purposes.
The trees have been cut down, the fountain torn up, and a small
firmy of men is working day and night on the excavations. The
building will have a frontage of 300 feet in Broadway, the same
in Park-row, a magnificent facade looking down Broadway, and
a rear, facing the City Hall, not far from 4C0 feet in length. It
is to be built of granite, and will be highly ornamented with
t-tatuary. "With all the force which can be employed upon it,
fceveral years will be consumed in its erection. — Sept. 1869.

an out and out policy of *' protection," The "Herald" —
a rival paper — is dandled and pxv.med in a suite of
magnificent premises at the corner of Broadway, near
Wall-street. Th'^y have a semi-circular frontage of white
Vermont marble, beautifully adorned with carved devices
of profile and flower. The soul of the "Herald" is Mr.
Bennett, a man who like Mr. Stewart came to the United
States from the old country. I may mention that it
is his son, whose yacht joined in the adventurous race
across the Atlantic in December, 1866.

A very short distance from Broadway lies the district
of "Five points," so called from the fact of five streets
meeting and intersecting each other there. A few years
ago this locality was the lowest quarter of the city. A
man's life was not safe in it either by night or day.
A partial change has been effected by the efforts of kind-
hearted philanthropists, who have founded in the vei}'^
midst of this "Seven Dials" of New York two noble
institutions, viz: the " Howard Mission" and the "Five
Points House of Industry." Into thesa houses of refuge
are gathered fatherless and destitute boys from the streets.
Each mission takes charge of 300 to 400 of these city
Arabs, providing them with food, clothing, secular and
religious instruction. Every spring, the superintendent
takes 100 or 150 of them out to the West and places them
in situations with farmers. The latter are bound by
agreement to provide them with schooling during the
winter months, and to employ them until they attain the
&fte of 21. So great is the demand for labour, that farmers
are willing to pay a small premium to the mission for
each boy.

No cloud of murky gloom taints the clear atmosphere
of New York. Anthracite coal is burnt in the city, and

it is in a great measure smokeless. It embodies more
heat than the soft coal, and is consequently invaluable for
use in stoves. A law of providence has tempered the
bitterness of America's intensely cold winters with the
gift of fiery hot anthracite coal. This fuel is found east
of the Alleghanies. West of the mountains soft coal is
mined. The difference is very marked, ; for while New
York — consuming "anthracite" — has a clear atmosphere
like the Havana, Pittsburg — feeding its furnaces with
"bituminous" fuel — cannot show a speck of blue sky, so
dense is the smoke. On the Eastern Shore it is difficult
to m^Mifacture gas, so the ret'' "ts of gas companies are
chf i with coal from England and Nova Scotia, and
also with resin and other similar substances. The people
have compensation in plentiful supplies of rock-oil
for lamps. Meanwhile the native coal supplies a more
urgent need, by becoming a heat-giver in thousands of
homes, when the thermometer is marking below zero.

The old bowling-green is at the foot of Broadway.
Mr. H. pointed out " Castle Garden," saying, " here is
the source of our strengtli ; here land the millions of
emigrants, whose labour has built up th« American
power and is daily adding thereto." The Celtic element
preponderates in the city. A constant stream of
emigration from Ireland has brought in a resident
population, which, in numbers overpowers and out-votes
the citizens of Dutch and English descent. An American
gentleman said to me, " New York is the worst governed
city in the world ; the Irish, many of them ignorant, hold
the reins of power and some of them quite illiterate, sit
at the Boards of Education." A recent visitor has given us
the opinion of a Western man, who remarked "that there
are more unlikely events, than our seeing a * Vigilance

Committee' ruling in New York, as it once did in lawless
San Francisco." I merely give these statements as the
volunteered opinions of Americans. As to the rest, I can
testify to the existence of many institutions of which its
citizens may justly be proud ; also of many accompanying
evils, which, all rulers of great cities, the world over,
would only bo too happy to see abolished to-day, if it
were possible. I was informed that the State Legisla-
ture has taken away several prerogatives from the city
authorities, because in the exercise of them, the latter
have proved themselves "lords of misrule." For instance
the Commissioners of Police and of the Central Park are
appointed not from the City Hall, but from the State
House at Albany. Perhaps after all the wisdom of State
Republicanism, aided by education, may hold the foolish-
ness of city Democracy in check ; and oblige all to act
" on the square," for the promotion of good order, justice
and law.* I saw no more of Empire-City during the heat
and glare of summer ; later in the year I returned with
leisure to make a closer acquaintance with its people
and its sights.

♦ The absence of good faith in rendering simple justice to the
foreign creditor, is a shameful and short-sighted poUcy. Both
City and State have been bribed by Fisk, Gould & Co. to uphold
the tyranny of the '* Erie Ring." We trust that an appeal to
the Supreme Court of America will not be in vain. — May Zlst,
1870.

LONG ISLAND SOUND.

<Vj[T was my good fortune to examine several of the
(^ steamers for which America is so celebrated. A
morning was spent on one of the Sound boats, as it lay at
anchor. A director of the Company was with me, and
pointed out the internal arrangements and economy of
this floating palace. Steamers of the Bristol line, on the
voyage to Boston, pass out into the Atlantic Ocean.
Their construction seems to me to render them dangerous
and unsafe as sea-going vessels. They are built too high
out of the water. I should not like to be aboard one of
them when exposed f^ strong winds and a rolling swell.
It was but a step from Canal-street to the steamer,
yet in that distance what a contrast ! Entering through
a gap in the side, we find ourselves standing on the
cargo-deck, which is freighted with piles of boxes and
barrels, that are a peculiar characteristic of American
river and lake commerce. The engines are strong and
of truly ingenious design. Anthracite coal is burnt in
the furnaces ; it is a shining stone-like fuel compared
with the bituminous coal of Great Britain. I generally
found the engineers to be intelligent men ; it was seldom
that an engine-room was without its newspaper. The
sand and grit which impregnate river and lake water in
America, would make a condenser too costly a source of
power; so high-pressure steam-engines are almost
universally used. Below the freight-deck are regions
devoted to cuisine, and to ranges of sleeping-berths.

Penetrating further, we find in his office my companion's
favourite captain. Upon my being introduced to him as
an Englishman, he at once sets about showing me in
detail, the specimen-steamer which he had the honor of
commanding.

Tier above tier, deck above deck, like a mansion of
many stories, rises this water-palace. Mounting from
the freight-deck, you enter a magnificent saloon, in which
you may rely upon being surrounded with drawing-room
comfort and luxury. I have the scene before my mind's
eye now. The wood-work is enriched with moulding,
cornice and panel ; the eye rests up ;n a fresco'd roof
and walls of purest white. Elegant curtains, with easy
chairs and ottomans, show us how quickly America is
following France in the fashion of these things. The
staircase landings are panelled with dark mahogany, inlaid
with light-grained maple ; costly mirrors are there, and a
fountain of iced water is at hand for public service. If
you wish for company, you may linger in the saloon and
mingle with hundreds of associate passengers ; if you
desire privacy, you may retire to your own state-room
and be alone. The pillars in the centre, supporting the
roof, are fluted columns of white, crowned with Corinthian
capitals, richly gilded. Crystal chandeliers, worthy of
Windsor or St. Cloud, tone down the blazing gas-lights ;
and statuettes of bronze, of mailed knight and fabled
Goddesr look down upon the busy life beneath.

The most beautiful steamer that I saw, was the **Adir-
ondac" on Lake Champlain. Its state-rooms, and all
internal wood-work were of real, solid, white butternut,
set ofi" with mouldings of rich black- walnut. Slab for slab,
zebra-like, the contrast of light and shade was very
atriking, and the style unique. It impressed me with an

idea of the country'B prodigality of forest-wealth. The
Mississippi boats were famous in their palmy days, before
the war ; no doubt, time will repair their clouded fortunes
again. Those upon the Hudson^ and the *' propellers'
on the Great Lakes will triumphantly uphold the steam-
boat honors of the nation.

The reality of all this magnificence was soon to be
enjoyed by experience. That very afternoon I embarked
for a voyage down Long Island Sound. Seated upon
deck, I could quietly notice everything of interest around.
The intense heat was now modified by a pleasant breeze.
A large fleet of coasting- vessels lay at anchor within the
Sound. We see the guns through the embrasures of Fort
Columbus. There is Blackwell Island, at once the prison,
the penitentiary, the asylum and the poor-house of New
York We notice the inmates of the island- workhouse in
their rough blue garb. It is grimly said to me by a
citizen looker-on, **the island-site of these establishments
is a healthy one, and the broad sea-moat round, renders
escape almost impossible." The shores of the mainland
are flat and well- wooded, and run out into promontories
which shelter tiny bays and creeks. Out of one of these,
issues a pleasure-yacht, which, with much cheering and
great display of white, waving signals, passes us in full
sail. Perhaps its amateur crew are hoping to emulate
the deeds of the " Fleetwing," and some Christmas Eve
to put in an appearance at Cowes, in time to share in
British hospitality, at its prime during the festival-season.
Very welcome will they be.

Legends of the early settlements, and stories of the
War of Independence come floating on our memory.
The nomenclature is suggestive of deeds enacted
here. Upon Long Island, you find many families whose
names prove their Dutch origin. Yanderbilt and Van

unt, "Wychoff and Cowenhoven, Bergen and Denwyse,
Suydam and Van Sicklen all speak ofthe time when Mein
Herr, fresh from Amsterdam, owned farm and Hoff on
the island. It is not impossible, even now, to meet speci-
mens of the race allied with the Saxon ; old ladies of 70
or bO who remember that in their young daySj the house
was full of slaves. And right well did these good Aunt
Phoebes and Bessies treat their negro dependants.

One of the customs of these worthy burghers, who
thought so much of hospitality, still remains. It has
been gleefully accepted and confirmed by their successors.
On new-year's day, every lady in the city remains " at
home," in the expectation of a call from each gentleman
of her acquaintance. Young America of the main sex,
" fixes itself up to kill" on that particular day, and gladly
makes the round of its charming friends. Many fair ones
are conquered, and many feuds and quarrels are condoned
on this festival day. The island contains a spot as
celebrated in its way as Farringford, for at Cedarmere,
near the village of Roslyn, Mr. Bryant the poet, has
reared his * 'Penates."

Snorting and puflSng, up the Sound comes a white
steam-boat — the ** Eip Van Winkle." I am told that it is
one of the oldest steamers in America, that it has several
times seen the bottom of the sea without assistance from
a diving-bell, and as often been raised again. In these
very waters have floated British frigates. Deep in the
*• dark unfathomed caves of ocean" far below, lies the
wreck of an English ship, which sank down with its
treasure of golden guineas. The money had been sent
out to pay the King's troops in 1775. English divers
were sent over in 1821, but were not allowed to go down.
The Americans claim it as " treasure trove," and their
divers are still at work. They have found the cabin ; and

)enwyse,
ben Mein
iHoflfon
3et epeci-
ies of 70
)he house
ood Aunt
bs.

lers, who
I. It has
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entleinan
main sex,
nd gladly
r fair ones
condoned
spot as
sdarmere,
poet, has

I a white

that it is

IS several

mce from

In these

ep in the

, lies the

with its

been sent

[sh divers

go down.

and their

bbin ; and

the skeletons of the manacled prisoners of war, for whom
there was no escape, although the crew were saved ; but
the precious "treasure" is not yet "trove," it is still in
I the earlier stage of " quest."

I Eound " Hell Gates" the whirlpool never slumbers,
i the boiling waters never cool. Over hidden ridges of
1 granite, the sea still rushes like a mill sluice, reminding
^ us of the " Race of Alderney." Large sums have been
I spent by Government in blasting under water, but the
1 rocky impeders, like the " Iron Gates" in the Danube,
I still remain. Our pilot took us very carefully through
I this dangerous bit of navigation, and when safely passed,
! we felt relieved. The " furies" of the place seem still to
require, as a sacrifice, the loss of an occasional vessel.
I It was now evening, the wind was rising, and its moan
began to mingle with sound of clanking engines and
jplash of paddle-wheels. Darkness fell upon the waters
;|of the Sound, only broken by the twinkle of shore-
jpoeacons and the deck-lights of a passing ship.
f? We descend to supper. The sitting-down to it is a
Ithing I shall never forget ; for was I not then introduced
I to corn-cake, hominy and melons, to American tomatoes
land white-garbed negro-waiters I It was the last evening
I was to spend with my kind Rhode Island friends ; on
the morrow, we were to part in the capital city of their
State ; they, to the welcomes of home and friends, after
long absence in Europe, I — with energies girded to the
work, pushing on to scenes of Northern travel. Long
after supper we lingered, talking of sights in the Old
World — by them accomplished ; of other sights in their
own New World which were in store for me.

lews
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POLITICAL LIFE.

OLITICS run high in the United States. I had not

been long in the land, before I was advised what

ewspapers I might read with most profit and advantage.

ne evening I visited the Atlantic Gardens in New York ;

large room was filled with loungers drinking '* lager"

eer, calling for ** ponies" of brandy, and discussing

ilection matters the while. An automaton-organ towered

oft on one side of the saloon, and daily poured forth for

Isteners, music powerful as from a full-fledged orchestra.

In its intervals of silence during the evening, a band of

Oerman musicians were playing lively tunes. All along

the side facing the organ and the Germans, green leaves

of trees peeped into the room, above a party-screen, and

the breeze among the branches made a sort of rustling

ohorus. Stepping out among these trees you find

hundreds of singing-birds in their cages. Slightly altered

in mode, it is in suhsta/nce the " Jardin Chanson'" of the

•'Champs Elysees," transplanted into the American Paris.

ddenly msisic is heard from the outside. I left, and

ming into Broadway had a first glimpse of political

©cessions .

First came a band of torch-bearers, lighting to their
ce the fingers of those who beat the drums and played
the instruments of brass. Following sounds of stirring
march, came thousands and thousands of citizens — *'blue-
oys" the people call them from the blue badge they wear.
y their side and with their lanks marched cotyledons of

police. Later in the evening, in coming down Broadway,
our omnibuB was brought to a stand until the long, long
files had passed.

In the city of Philadelphia I had seen a political
pageant. Up and down the shaded streets was drawn a
waggon filled with musicians. Their instruments in the
pathetic strains of " You'll remember me," were calling
up recruits. Large was the gathering of politicians,
eaiTiest the manner, and flowery the speech of ibS leaders.
Long after I had left the meeting, ringing cheers ard
sullen groans came floating over Independence Hall, to
the open window at which I sat ; and I remembered that
Buch gatherings, such speeches and such lungs were not
unknown in England.

In the majority of cases, an American could not live
without his politics. He takes to the science as naturally
as the British boy to his marbles and cricket. He votes
by ballot, and yet there is after all much of the spirit of
theCanadianfarmer of the backwoods, who declared ''that
all he knew of politics, was, that he voted for his friends."
lio, in the United States there is voting for friends in the
present tense, and there is voting for friends in the future
tense. It is human-nature, and prevails among all
peoples. At the same time, we must congratulate the
Americans upon the uniform order and quietness of the
polling-day, and upon the celerity with which the votes
of millions of people are recorded.

I have repeatedly seen the passengers in railway-cars
canvassed for their votes ; some individual, in a playful
manner, thus "taking the sense" of the travelling'
meeting. On more than one occasion I have had the
honor of exercising the American franchise. President
Grant, during his Tiolitical minority, had at least one

oadway,
ng, long

political
drawn a
ts in the
3 calling
iticians,

leaders.
tiers and

Hall, to
3red that
fvere not

not live
laturally
3e votes
spirit of
ed "that
riends."
Is in the
le future
Long all
ulate the
ss of the
he votes

?yay-cars
playful

•avelling
had the

resident

east one

I #

British rote ; and on the great day of triumph — the day
of his minority— the well-wishes of that voter were not
absen».

I heard a atory. An Irishman in America was called
upon to vote. Very probably his discriminating mind
had not yet been sufficiently enlightened, as to the
merits or demerits of rival candidates for State honors.
Friends became pressing ; rival partisans gave him no
peace. The Celt in Ireland might waver ; the Celt when
a citizen must bring his mind to resolution. With infinite
puzzlement and docility, he said, " Och, an sure I'll do
as I dade in the ould counthry, an vote aginst the
cuffemment."

Long before the "White House is vacated by its tenant,
the contest for the next tenantship commences.
Conventions name the foremost men, and immedi-
ately the "running" process begins. In every
city, town and hamlet — according to the measure and
depth of their political strength — you see the evidences
of contest round you. Banners are hung across the
street. Each candidate is often in public, in person or
by deputy. His life from earliest childhood is traced out
and made public. It is your own fault if you are ignorant
of these things. You are told to the hour and minute the
time of his birth ; of his education and marriage ; of his
sons and daughters — and descending still lower into
the inanimate creation — of the exact spot of latitude
and longitude on which his mansion stands, and of that
mansion itself, even to the angles of its gables and the
tale of its planks. Yet further, of him whose silence is
so " golden," the silvern speech of friends will tell of
feats of strategy and sword on battle-field, before the hour
of victory came. These details grow and grow, until
methinks the candidate will say of his investigating

friends, as did Othello, — They

*' Still question'd me the story of my life,
From year to year ; the battles, sieges, fortune,
That I have passed.

I ran it through, even from my boyish days.
To the very moment that (they) bade me tell it."

and yet not satisfied,
" (They'd) come again, and with a greedy ear,
Devour up my discourse."
On the day of struggle ail those things are done with ;
they are forgotten. The victor does not need them ;
the vanquished one abhors them. Not another word will
we say of electors and elected ; for are not all their
speeches, all their actions, recorded in the chronicles of
the " Tribune" and " Herald" I

Do not think that we have no faults in our own electoral
system in England. Until lately it was studded with
anomalies and shames. We could tell of a brainless son
of Castle Monsal coming forward for the suffrage. The
doings of his ancestry were flaunted in the eyes of voters
until they were inclined to say, —

What boots it all, what care we for his ancestry,
When the man before us lacks its wit and wisdom ?

We could tell of officers sitting in Parliament, who know
far more of a naval review and words of command, than of
the science of government. We could tell of rich mer-
chants, without an eloquent thought in their heads, well
up in the prices of currants and iron, but lamentably
ignorant of political economy. We could tell of country
squires sitting within that noble Commons' House, whose
political vision remained darkened, though all around was
light. Again and again have they refused the voice of
warning, —

My lords, we hear a fearful tempest sing,
Yet seek no shelter from the rising storm ;

We see the very \rreck that we must suffer,
And unavoided let the danger come.
Lastly, we could tell of a boasted liberty in England,
while for centuries, millions of English people have been
excluded from the suffrage.

On the other band, we could tell of one who has
devotedly, unselfishly served his country — whose motto
has ever been ''Be just and fear not" — until now, in
old age, he is held in love and honour by his countrymen.
We could tell of one who has studied liberty and justice
from the days of Oxford student-life ; until now, trusted
and prized by Queen and people, he holds the helm of
England. We can tell also, though the deed is but of
yesterday, of the barriers of class legislation broken
down, and the cry of the people heard, and answered.
We could tell yet further of a young American who
breathed to us his wish, his life's desire — in spirit of truest
patriotism — to represent his State in Congress. Of
another, who is making the living world bis lesson-book
— gathering in every land the niles of statesmanship —
investigating the happiness of peoples — until he will in
due time return to his American home, prepared to devote
his life unselfishly to nolitics.

These things cast a gleam of hope upon the world's
selfish struggles. We believe that for America there are
** great things" in store politically; and that for England,
old England — after centuries of class-government — now
on the edge of an unknown, unfathomed future—there
will be " light at eventide" ; the light of justice, the light
of goodness, the light of God's blessing. I give the words
of a faithful leader, — " I think I see as it were, above the
hill-tops of time, the glimmerings of the dawn of a better
and a nobler day, for the country and the people that I
love so well."

ENVIRONS OF EMPIRE CITY.

^E have all heard of Fifth Avenue. Upon closer
acquaintance, it will fully maintain its character
for princely mansions — varying in material of construction
from marble to sandstone, and in architecture from
mediaaval to gothic — but each vieing with its neighbour
in t.-'e splendour of its interior, and the prodigal luxury
of its menage. A ride from Central Park to Fifth Avenue
Hotel at the city end, will give some idea of the extent
and beauty of this famous suburb : range after range of
noble mansions, the homes of luxury and fashion. The
I hotel alluded to, is in fact a marble palace ; in point of
'size and appliances it could cast into deep shade the
ancestral halls of the Camerlenghi. What the canal was
to Venice, the vertical railway is to the huge guest-
mansion of New York, By means of it you may ascend
^ from basement to attic, or vice versa, descend from "turret
I to foundation-stone."

I I was told a story of the Prince of Wales' visit, by a

I Southern ge:itleman who was an eye-witness of the scene.

I After asking the Prince to inspect the Ladies' Parlour

land other sights of the hotel, it was proposed that His

iBoyal Highness should be drawn to the top of the

building in the hoist. The prudent Duke of Newcastle

however declined, for fear some accident should happen

to his charge. If the illustrious party had ascended and

stepped out on to the roof, they would have found it to

be a point of vantage, second only to the spire of Trinity,

from which to look down upon the panorama of the city.

The same gentleman told me that the Southern people
were much disappointed that the Prince's tour did not
extend to their States.

On the Avenue stands the new Catholic Cathedral of
St. Patrick. The works are still in progress ; when
completed, the building will be one of the finest in the
New World. The Jewish synagogue is also in the same
locality. I believe that its architecture 12 Eomanesque,
but I should require the pen of Mr. Ruskin to bring its
details before the reader. It is a beautiful edifice, with
its round Italian windows, and pinnacled roof and balus-
trade. I don't think that Jews are numerous in America,
but it is evident that those who are there have prospered,
and out of their prosperity has sprung this ornate temple.
It is a great contrast to the lowly synagogue at Prague,
in which city the tabernacle seems to have descended a
step into the earth, or the earth to have risen round the
tabernacle. I am told that the twin-roll of scripture in
use is identically the Lame — a veritable fac-simile of that
compiled by Esdras the scribe, 500 years B.C., with all
the dots and marks which appeared in that copy.

On a fine day, Central Park is one of New York's most
pleasing sights. The Commissioners are catering for the
citizens' out-door enjoyment with no niggard hand, having
idready expended £3,000,000 upon the park. The
pleasure-grounds are extensive and laid out with exqui-
site taste. They are a triumph of landscape gardening ;
probably the finest that America can show. You may
wander among drives and labyrinthine walks from
morning to evening, still coming upon some new spot.
As we came up to the Pavilion we were greeted by merry
strains of music from the band. Throngs of elegantly-
dressed people were sitting round the orchestra, protected
from the sun by tent-like awnings ; while others

■1

■•i"

edral of
; when
st in the
,he same
mesque,
Dring its
ce, with
id balus-
^.merica,
ospered,
} temple.
Prague,
cended a
pund the
pture in
e of that
with all

k's most

ig for the

J, having

£. Tho

ih exqui-

rdening ;

Tou may

ks from

ew spot.

3y merry

egantly-

3rotected

others

were promenading near the music stands. We do not
remember to have looked upon a scene of open-air festival
so gay as this one, except on a fete day at St. Cloud»
when coteries of Parisians, danced a cotillon in forest
glades, to the music of the " Cent Gardes' " Band, in the
IJnited States the instrumentalists are often Germans.
Native-born Americans do not as a rule excel in music,
either vocal or instrumental. Probably if there was not
such a stream of exotic talent, more might be done to
develop native excellence in harmony. No one can say
that Americans are unmindful of musical genius, or slow
to recognise its worth, when they remember how Jenny
Lind was welcomed, when first her voice was heard in
Castle Garden Music Hall.

Our trip to the Park was made on a fine Saturday
afternoon. We noted some novel designs in fountain-
ornament. Jets of water, in their upward rising, are
made to assume the curved, twining folds of a serpent.
rieasure-parties are out in boats upon the lake. On the
same waters are floating graceful swans. While looking
at the latter, I am closely questioned about Virginia
Water and Windsor ; just as I am beginning to see the
drift of the merry questioners, out comes the truth, that
^these swans are the gift of Queen Victoria to the Park,
^j** If we had a Queen, we should have recognised her
;^wans," was my rebuke for such lamentable ignorance.
?his felt to be a delightful episode ; to hear of an act of
jourtesy from our Sovereign Lady to a great people ; to
'fitness the delight of the recipients, and the value they
pet upon the gift,

A terrace on the lake-margin is connected with those
above by broad, noble steps of stone. The abutments of
these water-staircases are tastefully carved. The cunning

hand of a Scotch mason, has sculptured in the soft-tinted
sandstone, lovely shapes of birds, fruits and flowers.
Walnut and maize are intermingled with pinion and petal.
So fairy-like is the tracery, so excellent its artistic merits,
that we wish it could endure for ever ; but we fear that
the perishable material gives little promise of perpetual
faithfulness. Under the upper terrace, a semi-subterra-
nean chamber has been assigned to refreshment purveyors. '
When its decorations are completed, this room will appear
ornamented in the style of the Moorish Court at the
Crystal Palace. Reality is better than fancy, so we think,
as the time comes to propitiate by gifts, the hunger and
thirst which inevitably steal upon pleasure- seekers.

There are yet other sights in store. We may pass
under a "Marble Arch" ; we may promenade upon a
grassy "Mall," Close by are two young forest-trees.
These saplings of oak and elm were planted by the Prince
of Wales, on his visit in 1860. We saunter through the
" vine-clad Arbour" ; we wander through the mazes of
the " Ramble." We bend low beneath an arch of stone,
pushing aside creeping plants and climbers before the
precincts of the "Cave" are entered. We must not
forget bonnie " Bow Bridge" ; its graceful span — its
vases of orchids and bright-hued flowers.

There is yet one other Park- scene to delineate. It is
winter ; the lakes are frozen over. The time is night,
night transformed into day by the brilliant light of the
moon. Such evenings are very common in the latitudes
of North America. A merry company are skating ; we
will buckle on our runners and join them. , Very little
imagination will bring the scene before the home-dweller.
The ice is as it were, the gleaming floor of a ball-room,
trimly swept and garnished — the roof, the star-lit heaven.

iJ^St^WK***.'

fc-tinted
flowers,
id petal,
merits,
'ear that
erpetual
abterra-
rveyors.'
11 appear
•t at the
ve think,
Qger aD.d
ers.

nay pass
B upon a
3st- trees,
ae Prince
'ough the
mazes of
of stone,
efore the
must not
span — its

te. It is
! is night,
ght of the
latitudes
iting; we
ITery little
e-dweller.
aall-room,
it heaven'

I Ladies are out in full force, attired in costumes appro-

j priate to the occasion.

At Christmas we no more desire a robe,

Than wish a snow mid May's new-fangled shows,

But like of each thing that in season grows.

Our fair friends have put aside the * 'Grecian Bend" with
Autumn ; they have donned their winter furs, and are
learning again the graceful motions of northern sisters —
Buch as are practised by the daughters of Stockholm on
frozen Malar See. Sight and sound bespeak a carnival of
pleasure. It is a real winter-palace festival. The great.
Open presence-chamber is not thronged by Peers and
Princes ; for the guests are of a people whose Princedoms
and Peerages are worn beneath the prouder title of
citizen.

" The reservoirs for recei' ing the water supplies of New
Tork are constructed in Central Park. The stream is
Drought from Croton river, 40 miles distant. An
l|queduct which is a marvel of engineering skill bringi
in the sparkling treasure. Treasure it is, to those who
4rink it, morning, noon and night ; treasure it is, with
cleanliness and comfort in its train for a hundred thousand
jbouseholds ; beyond price as a main-spring in promoting
tealth among the city's teeming population.

I Land in the vicinity of the Park is very high in value.
Ifhis spring (1869) some building-plots on Zlst-street
iere sold. The usual-sized "city-block" (25ft. by 100ft.)
jfcalised 26,000 dollars for a comer frontage, and 19,000
dollars for a side-street frontage ; or £16 and £11 per

HjKiuare yard respectively. In addition to the cost of the
^ound, the purchaser would have to excavate by blasting

i|L2fk. of solid rock, for his cellars, before commencing to
"mild.

It is a mistake to think that New York has no antiquities.
True it has no time-worn minster, or city- walls like the
York of the old country ; but, as in the New World
change and progress are more rapid, so there, things of
the present sooner become things of the past. There is a
floating atmosphere of romance about its early-settlement
and War of Independence, which has almost become
tradition. Two centuries and a half have passed since
Dutch burghers first planned its streets, and trafficked at
the infant port. The Governor brought from Holland
and planted in his garden 220 years agOj, a pear-tree.
Stuyvesant's sapling grew and thrived apace ; the tree
yet survives, and its feeble life is guarded with jealous
care from the bustling throng of 3rd Avenue. In front
of the Church of St. Paul, is a marble slab recording the
death of General Montgomery at Quebec. In the green-
acre of Trinity, hard by, is the tomb of Commodore
Lawrence, a brave officer who fell in the frigate-duel
between the Chesapeake and Shannon. A curious silver-
service, presented by Queen Anne of England, soon after
the founding of the church, is still preserved by the
Trinity Corporation. At Hyde Park on Long Island, we
may yet see the house in which William Cobbett com-
posed his English grammar. The city Post-office was a
Dutch church in olden-time, and in its steeple Franklin
practised experiments in electricity. In New York there
is a Printing-House Square ; in the Square a fine building
of Nova Scotia stone. From the active presses within
this "Times" Office, issues daily a journal which is as
extensively read '^s its London namesake.

The very nomenclature is an "antiquity" in itself.
Dutch names carry back our thoughts to the Holland of
|)almy days. Indian names of poetic sound and meaning,
associate together, a land of forest and the city of the

iquities.
like the
7T "World
bings of
here is a
btlement
become
3ed since
ffickedat
Holland
ear-tree,
the tree
h jealous
In front
rding the
le green-
nmodore
jate-duel
lis silver-
oon after
d by the
sland, we
)ett com-
ic e was a
Franklin
ork there
I building
BS within
lich is as

in itself.
[oUand of
meaning,

(ity of the

Pale-faces which has risen upon it. Anglo-Saxon names
exercise an influence still stronger. To the American it
comes by right to share in an antiquity equal with our
own. He needs no "Old Mortality" to ransack the
records of a thousand years ; they are written for
him, on crumbling Minster and Castle-ruin, in the fair
islands of Britain. The larger his soul, the greater will
be his glory and delight in sharing with us the history
of the past. In this spirit one of his nation has written,
— "To the American of English descent, who cares for
the glories of his fatherland, and the mighty race from
which he has descended, England is the one country of
Europe most worthy of a thoughtful examination. For
ray part I have a pride of ancestry in this country, and a
hearty happiness in everything I see in it that is grand
and beautiful. If I see a church, or a castle more than
two centuries old, some ancestor of mine may have aided
to build it ; if an ancient tree, some hand in which my
blood flowed may have planted it ; and I peer among the
mossy old church-yard stones to see if my name is not
there chiselled." Oh, how grateful I felt to him who
penned these words ; in return, at my hands, America
shall have justice. I will render honor where honor is
due. When I travel through that mighty land — dowered
so richly by a Wise Creator — when I see the great works
which its people have accomplished — I read a glorious
future for the nation. The great heart of England is true
to liberty, and beats in sympathy with America ; praying
that on her may descend the blessing of the " Most High,
who ruleth in the kingdom of men, and giveth it to
whomsoever he will."

It is not long before you learn how tenderly America
cares for the education of its children. She is not great
in colleges, but she is renowned for public schools and

i
J

libraries. New York has one or two of the former, and
a prodigal growth of the latter. Near Fifth Avenue is a
seat of learning of George the Second's time, and founded
by that king. It is now known as Columbia College.
We may visit the University of New York — a noble
marble building, whose perpendicular pointed gothic
architecture reminds us of our own famous " Kings" at
Cambridge, and whose chapel is one of the finest in
America. Cooper Institute — founded by a benevolent
citizen in the interests of literature — is also a pillar of
education in its way. It is needless to summarise each
of the twenty or more public libraries of the city ; a sight
of the 140,000 volumes in the Aator Library will go far
to satisfy an ordinary reader.

I had often heard of the doggerel sung in infant
schools, yet was amused to hear it for the first time. The
scholars, boys and girls, stand up and sing,
This is the way we wash our hands,
Before we go to school in the morning.

(suiting the action to the words)
This is the way we brush our clothes,
Before we go to school in the morning,
(again suiting the action to the words.
One thinks that after such a training, the young folks
will never appear with unwashed hands or unbrushed
clothes, during the term of their natural lives. In a very
short time, these bright, American children — whom Mrs.
Stowe describes as * all nerves' by the side of solid-headed
brothers and sisters in England — will be ready for real
rhyme of Anglo-Saxon classics, after this preparatory
meal of doggerel. The free, public schools are institutions
prosaic enough, but they are in many respects the cradle
of the nation's power.

I visited the printing establishment of Harper Bros.,
in Franklin Square, and Appleton's Emporium of Litera-

aer, and
mue is a
founded
College,
-a noble
d gothic
ings" at
[inest in
nevolent
pillar of
rise each
; a sight
ill go far

n infant
rne. The

mg folks
ibrushed
In a very
lom Mrs.
d-headed
jT for real
jparatory
jtitutions
he cradle

Br Bros.,
)f Litera-

ture in Grand-street. Both will take favorable rank with
our leviathan publishing-houses in London.f One after-
noon I went to see Mr. Sheenan at his store. During
our imprisonment on the "Scotia" this gentleman and
j myself thoroughly discussed "American Schools." With
quick hospitality he cemented our renewed acquaintance
by an invitation to drink wine with him ; then Le told
me of his early struggles. He had emigrated from
Germany 40 years ago, landing in New York with only a
few thalers in his pocket ; — now he has risen to be a
wealthy man. I was taken to look over a fancy-store.
Its sign informed all comers, that within were sold
" knick-lsnacks" and " Yankee notions." Here, thought
I, is a genuine characteristic of r.ative originality. Inside
was allk'^ds of fancy articles, from Pennsylvanian hosiery
to Birmingham buttons, from Parisian kids to Maryland
chess-men. Most of all I was struck with the tact and
"smartness" of the salesman.

In conversing with a merchant-friend, he introduced

the question of English land-law, and primogeniture.

After an animated discussion, he comes round to my view

that it is not desirable for England to be split up into

tiny, fractional holdings ; he sees that it is unfair to

compare England and America together as agricultural

I or landed countries, seeing that the area of each, pro rata

I with its population is so unequal . On *^p authority of

I this gentleman I may state that the land in the city of

I New York is now principally held in very few hands.

I Thirteen or fourteen wealthy people own the greater part

■' t It is said that the latter firm wished to contract with the
[Cable Company to have the whole of Disraeli's " Lothair" trans-
mitted from London in 48 hours. Pressure of other businesi
I would not admit of the carrying out of this masterly attempt to
I take the wind out of a rivara sails. — 1870.

of it ; among them being the Corporation or Vestry of
Trinity, and Mr. Aster's heirs.

The ** Church of the Puritans" near Union Square is
especially interesting, because Dr. Cheevers' name is so
intimately bound up with it. Foremost among Episcopal
churches is Trinity. It stands in Broadway, facing
Wall-street ; daily the sweet chimes of its bells are heard
mingling with the hum of the Exchange. More than 170
years ago, money was sent out from England to build the
church, and buy lands for its endowment. Little did its
founders think, that this church of an infant colony, would
become the most wealthy in the world, bidding fair to
perpetuate in America a ritual service, which, in the old
country, is to some extent waning and becoming feeble.
Lord Cornbury presented the "Church ferm" of the
Dutch, or the "King's farm" of the English to the
Trinity Corporation, a few years after the founding of
the church. These lands have risen immensely in value,
so much so, that the revenue now yielded by them has
made Trinity the richest ecclesiastical plum in the world.
I give the following statement on the authority of Sir
Koundell Palmer. " Trinity Church, New York,
possesses a considerable part of Manhattan Island, a
property vhich will soon be of the value of £400,000 or
more anr , or in other words will yield a yearly

reveL' x to the nett income of the Irish Church

Ests uent." — [House of Commons, March, IS 69.^

The present edifice is built of brown sandstone ; its
outside is imposing ; its interior much in the style of
English Cathedrals. It has a fine roof of chiselled stone
and the painted windows are also beautiful. On the last
Sunday of my stay in America I attended service in this
noble Cathedral. It was not diflBcult to imagine yourself
in an English Minster. Clergymen and choristers in

38try of

juare is
ae is BO
piscopal
, facing
re heard
than 170
ouild the
e did its
y, would
g fair to
1 the old
g feeble.
" of the
a to the
Hiding of
in value,

hem has

,e world,
of Sir
York,

si and, a

10,000 or

a yearly
Church
69.^

one ; its

style of
ed stone

the last
!e in this
yourself
Ksters in 1

white robes, come in singing a hymn. Before they enter
^the church, we can hear the dulcet sounds of youthful
voices ringing about the roof of a side chapel. The large
temple is full to overflowing. The congregation is by
no means made up of men and women in "goodly apparel,"
but sons and daughters of toil throng nave and aisles,
making us glad at heart to know that to the poor of the
city the gospel is preached. The present rector is Dr.
Vinton. He was educated at West Point for a soldier,
but changed his aims in life and became a divine. His
fellow- minister was an elderly man, whope face reminded
is much of portraits we have seen of General Washing-
ton. The sermon was grounded upon the parable of the
<' grain of mustard seed" The Scriptures, said the
preacher, must be taken as a whole, like arras, in which
♦very thread is of importance.

- Then the strains of a grand old anthem roll through
the church, —

0, come, let us worship aud fall down, let us kneel befpre the
I/)rd our Maker.

"The roof is so high, that a sounding-board over the
iiulpit is required. There it canopies the preacher, with
|fcs emblems of doves on outstretched wings, and branches
;|f olive and palm. I am told that the .Episcopal form
||f service is extending in America — in almost every case

unded and sustained by voluntary effort — unlike this

chly-endowed exception.

There is one other feature of religious life in the city to
hich I would allude with all reverence. Daily, at noon,
% gathering for worship takes place in a room adjoining
|he Eeformed Dutch Church. It is now universally
Jknown as the "Fulton-street Prayer Meeting." Its
commencement dates back to days of great commercial
idisaster in 1857, aud it has been sustained ever since.

nil l^i

Many persons attend regularly, there is a constantly
changing influx of strangers, and the proceedings are
often deeply interesting. Petitions for prayer, come in
by lettar from all parts of the Union— from Eait, West,
North and South— from Florida to Wisconsin, from
Oregon to Long Island. I was touched by this evidence
of strong religious feeling which, after all— amid sects
and schisms innumerable— pervades the American mind.
It is often unexpectedly manifested at "Camp Meetings."
As an instance of this, I may f ention that as I passed
through Rhode Island, a religioui i "revival" was going on
at Martha's Vineyard.

lit

aetantly
ings are
come in
t, West,
in, from
evidence
aid sects
an mind,
eetings."
I passed
going on

DIAMOND STATE.

!M WAS now to pass from cosmopolitan New York to
(^ Yankee New England. In the grey of an autumn
morning, I disembarked from one of the Sound steamers,
and entered the tiny Scute of Rhode Island. As the sun
rose, the veil of indistinctness was lifted from the earth,
and a New England landscape lay before me. There
were green-fields, and stone- walls ; busy villages and
mills ; pastures fringed with pine-barrens and swamps.
It was a very suggestive scene, one which I had for years
longed to look upon. Coming from the garden-land of
England, with its trim hedges and green valleys, can I
behold it without intense expectation ! And of the dwellers
in the land — how shall I find them ? Shall I, after living
among them, after seeing all that is good and beautiful
'in their country, be able to say with Miranda, —

? brave new world,

That has such people in' t !
^I am not disappointed.
4 Long before factory-bells had called the people to work

ti the mills, I was standing under a shady elm on the
ill-side, looking down upon the city of Providonce. Close
-|ftt hand were the houses of r'.cher citizens, standing in
lane-like streets, ^rejoicing in abundant shade of maple
Bnd chestnut. In the gardens, I notice tulip-trees with
Iftheir dark, glossy leaves, and balsams sharing the glory
^of the flower-beds. There : — are "meeting-houses" with
llwooden et)ires and umber-colo: ed walls. Her© : — is

Brown's University, the College of Providence, looking
time-worn after its 90 years of life — yet doing what our
coll'^es cannot do — giving to young men, who come up
from the public schools of the State, an advanced educa-
tion for a mere trifle of yearly fee.

Hither in olden time, came good Roger Williams.
With just and fair exchange, he bought the ^Zind from its
Indian owners ; then he gave the name to the infant city,
calling it after that "Providence," which would, he
believed, smile upon and prosper a work whose beginning
was justice. The Indians called it the ** Isle of Peace ;"
it gained its present name from the Island of Rhodes in
the Mediterranean.

In the refreshment room at the railway station, I learned
from the young man who served me, ihat during the war
he had been called to the army, and had fought at the
battle of Antietam. The saloon over which he now
presided, was by no means worthy of the thriving city of
Providence, nor was the fare so generous as you find at
the Fifth-Avenue Hotel. All sit down side by side. I
noticed a lady dressed in white, sipping coffee in repub-
lican proximity to garments the reverse of her own in
cleanliness. The men have all a free and independent
manner, and seem pleased to adopt broadcloth and It d
ornaments ; yet they are evidently all readers and keenly
intelligent on political matters.

I had now time to examine an American locomotive.
It seems stranj;^ tO see the furnace-fires fed with logs of |
wood. General Grant is evidently high in favour in these
parts, for the engine now under analysis bears his name.
The system of checking or registering passengers'
luggage is a good one, and saves much trouble. Perhaps
by ray next visit, the officials will have become more \
obliging ; at present, they evidently think that our boxes

are made to be kicked aboat, whenever they happen to be
in humour for a game at foot-ball 1 No one can travel in
New England cars, without noticing how intelligent are
the faces of female passengers. Ifj is true they are pale
and thin, having no pretence whatever to the ruddy bloom
of our English lassies ; but the stamp of a superior
education is on their countenances. They dress daintily,
and are quite alive to the advantages of appearance.
Their voices may be a little harsh— after the manner of
their country — but, prompted by kind hearts, they utter
pleasant words.

Newport is situate within an enjoyable sail of 30 miles
down Narragansett Bay. There the tide rages more
angrily, and rises higher than on the surrounding coast.
The possession of fine ranges of beach, has long made
Newport a centre of fashionable summer visitors.
During the season, tne gay company is the sight ;
yet certain antiquaries will carry you oflP to an
old wind-mill, and tell you that ii is the "lion" of the
place — will whisper that the old ruin was the work of
Vikings, and will liken it to the her g of Mousa in the far-
away Shetlands.

Rhode Island people are very patriotic and much
attached to their State. One of them told me, that some
time before, he had made up his mind to leave America.
He arranged his affairs ; and with his family sought a
residence in the Old World. In his wanderings through
Europe, he looked upon many bonnie spots. Amid the
recesses of England's Lakeland he almost found the home
he sought ; but the feeling of loyalty to his own country
returned again, and allured him back. What happiness
this to him, his own words shall tell.

THE LITTLE DIAMOND STATE,

What time amid the olive groves

Which fringe the classic sea,
Where wanton summer laughs and sings

In never-ending glee,
In dreamy rest and idleness

We dallied with the iiours,
With senses channed by tireless birds

And golden fruits and flowers,
How oft the inner self escaped,

And found its instant way
To where severest winter reigned,

By Narragansett Bay.

And when beneath that dome of domes

Which emulates the arch
heaven itself, we saw in grand

And proud procession march
The followers of the fishermen

lu costliest array,
And more than regal splendor,

We could but turn away
From soul-deluding rituals,

Condoning vice and guilt,
To the loftier though simpler church,

Which Roger Williams built.

The grandeur of the Alpine peaks

Let never man gainsay ;
That glorious beauty ne'er shall fade

Until th' Eternal Day
Yet as we stood upon the strand

Where Lcman's wavelets break,

And saw the monarch of the land

Tower up across the lake,
We thought how dearer far to us

The gently swelling crest,
And fertile vale, which nestle warm

On Little Rhoda's breast.

And now, sojourning in a State

Which boasts imperial name-
Where merchant-princes too attest

The justice of the claim—
We note how wealth breeds luxury

And luxury breeds wrong.
How power and fraud and gold and crime

March hand in hand aloufr.
A nd, sighing not for distant scenes,

Nor envying the great,
We say, with fulness of content,

God bless the Diamond State.

New York, March 27, 1869.

H. H.

no
of

THE PILGRIM STATE.

" The Mayflower lies in the harbour, with all her treasures,
;tiot of silver and gold, (for of these she has none,) but of courage,
of patience, of zeal, of high spiritual daring."

m ***** *

Here they will establish tha foundation of a free State.

Everett.

IDDINGr adieu to Rhode Island, I entered Massa-
chusetts, the Pilgrim State. After a journey by
[rail, I alighted one afternoon at a way-side station, west
lof Boston. The pleasant town which it accommodates,
bakes its name from an English statesman. I wended my
|way through shady lanes, attended at every step with the
||incessant cry of innumerable grasshoppers. We have
10 sound in England to which I can compare it. Wel-
comed at a country-home, and surrounded by kind friends,
enjoyed a never-to-be-forgotten opportunity of studying
few England life. ** As you come unprejudiced to visit
i-merica," said my entertainers, ** we are all wishful that
rour first impressions of it may be favorable." Certainly
[n their good-heartedness, they spared no pains to make
Ihem so.

I will endeavour to draw a little picture of this country-
»ome. The house is a frame one, as is usual in New
England ; painted white, with a green verandah running
)und two sides. A stem of English ivy has been planted,
md trained up the lattice, but it is sickly, pining for its
'orkshire home. Under the skies of the old Bay State
does not exhibit the hardihood, nor attain the exuberant

growth which distinguishes it in the old country. But
in place of it are trailing Mexican creepers ; there is the
gorgeous "morning glory," or American columbine,
which in autumn turns the most beautiful crimson you
ever saw, hiding the verandah in festoons of ruby-colored
leafage. In the garden grow geraniums ; and our old-
fashioned hollyhocks give place to kindred altheas.
Between garden and orchard is a leafy barrier. Mark it
well ; for it is composed of English thorn, brought from
its native land, and now grown up into a stately hedge.
One of the curiosities of the orchard is a bi-yearly apple
tree, which is too leisurely to bear fruit as often as its
neighbours. In autumn there will be store of rosy-
cheeked apples, ** enough and to spare" for cider and
winter-pies — the surplus will probably find its way to
Europe.

When ray host came to "locate" here, many years ago,
this orchard-land was rough and stony, and had to be
reclaimed from the wilderness. He selected this spot
for his dwellmg, because of its vicinity to a never-failing
spring of water. A little creek flows by, and mingling
its waters with those of the spring, expands into a bonnie
lake. On raised terraces above the dam — fronting to
south-west — are planted grape-vines, the cultivation of
which, in New England, is now pursued with enthusiastic
rivalry. Down below, maize is growing ; trailing under
maize and vines are the innumerable varieties of "creeping
things," known here as squashes, pumpkins and water-
melons. Grapes ripen in the open air, and nature
furnishes with bountiful hand, limes and strawberries ;
cherries and plums ; with all the well-known vegetables
common in English kitchen-gardens.

Within the mansion, I founu the substance of all
pleasant things that I had hoped for ; so much home-like

r. But

e is the
imbine,
3on you
colored
>ur old-
altheas.
Mark it
ht from

hedge,
apple
in as its
rosy-
der and

way to

Bars ago,
tad to be
this spot
jr-failing
mingling
I a bonnie
)nting to
vation of
ihusiastic
ing under
'creeping
nd water-
id nature
wherries ;
vegetables

ice of all
home-like

kindness — so many home-like customs, that I was often
reminded of my father's house among the Yorkshire hills
— in which my earlier years were passed. Amid these
new scenes, the days were spent in riding and driving
about the country, with an occasional ramble in the
woods.

On the evening of my arrival, I was taken out to see
the ** lions" of the place. A large space has been set
apart as a village-green ; in the centre is reared a tall
May-pole or flag-staff, upon which the loyal townspeople
have inscribed their devotion to Union and Constitution.
On one side of the ** green" was the store, with its open
verandah, and the horses of customers tied up to the
pillars. Pointing to a detached house, my guide said, —
" this was a tavern in Washington's days ; we are pleased
to tell our stranger-friends that the General passed a
night under its roof, when he was staying in the district.' '
All round, are white- walled villas ; each surrounded by
orchard and garden ; upon the lawns in front, on summer
evenings, the young people are playing croquet. Along
the streets are planted shade trees of white maple.

It is 200 years since this little town was settled, and a
century and a half since it received its charter of in-
corporation. Its population is now stationary, the surplus
regularly leaving home, and pushing westward to wider
fields of action. One-sixth of the people are Irish, who
live apart in a little colony of their own. They are not
so prosperous as the native-born Americans, for they
possess some unfortunate characteristics of their race,
even in an adopted land. This little town of 3,000 people,
sent 200 men to the war. From this item of statistics,
an idea may be formed of the strain laid upon the home-
population, during that terrible struggle. Schools I
need not mention. They are found all over the Northern

■HHBi

lijr

States ; and always good. Mr. G. took me to see their
Poor-house, among other institutions of the town. It
consists of a farm of 50 acres or so ; a homestead, and a
man and his wife in charge. The only pauper is one old
man, whom it has been playfully proposed — on the score
of economy — to send as a border to the St. Nicholas
Hotel. Unfortunately this exemption from poverty, is
not general in the larger cities of the United States.

It was only a short distance from the cultivated lands
to the woods. There was solitude enough, as I wandered
through the forest-aisles, and looked upon mighty trees,
scarred with lichens, light-green and grey. Here, I
gained a primary experience, which afterwards served
me in good-stead amongst the wooded wilds of New
Brunswick, Ottawa, and Michigan. Partridge, woodcock
and grouse are found in these covers, but no pheasants.
Game-laws are unknown in America, During the war,
feathered game increased considerably, for the young
sportsmen who usually waged war against it, were
otherwise employing their guns in Virginia, and on the
Mississippi. I hear with surprise, that in Massachusetts
there is a strong feeling in favor of a return to the English
system of protecting game. In the far "West, destruction
goes on indiscriminately, and every autumn, long freight-
trains, laden with prairie-birds and deer, are sent to the
Eastern cities. The large herds of buffalo are being
rapidly killed off, and the article must become scarcer
and scarcer, as the plains are filled up with people.

It was pleasant to go out for a ramble in the lanes,
especially when accompanied by a friend who had some
knowledge of the local flora. In thickly- shaded places
we found the pipe-plant, so called from its resemblance
to an Indian pipe. During growth it is white in colour,
but when pulled up it turns black. Shape and colour

render it a curiosity. Wild cherries, raspberries, black-
berries and hazel-nuts are growing in profusion.
American chestnuts also, when cooked, are by no means
to be despised by a hungry man. Hemlock-pine has been
planted, and trained into hedges, which resemble the
closely-clipped yews of old-fashioned gardens, of Haddon
Hall style and era. Everywhere there are ferns of
beautiful shape, and infinite variety. The yellow leaves
of the false indigo, and sumach-shrubs with cores of
orange-red flowers, and fringed stems like the wigan-
tree, dot the lane sides. In the woods are dark- grained
walnut, ubiquitous pine, stately oak, and graceful beech.
In the district are many mulberry trees. Thirty years
ago there was a mania for silkworm-rearing, and then
the mulberries were planted. Somehow the little stranger
silk-spinner did not thrive as in warmer lands, so the
project was abandoned.

We set out one afternoon for a visit to the lake. It
was distant 4 or 5 miles ; the approach to it, lay through
wild-wooded country and swamp. Above the pathway
towered Moose Hill, a high bluff covered with dwarf-
trees. A. few rattlesnakes are still found in rocky places
on its slopes, and their bite is deadly. From its summit
you can see the Atlantic Ocean, with 40 towns and
villages. Over this hill, the Indians used to drive moose,
which were then numerous in Massachusetts ! Now, the
way lies through solitary lanes and glens, as lonely as
those in the Scottish Highlands. The cedar-bird is busy
at work, gathering from surrounding trees a store of
seeds for winter. It is something like the swallow, and
takes its name firom the tree whence it draws its food of
seed-cones. Squirrels are numerous as rabbits at home ;
you are constantly sighting a red tuft, or a bright eye,
in overhanging branches. The sly red fox is stealthily

prowling about nests and warrens. In the swamp, you
may watch the toad iu his lair, darting out his needle-like
tongue to snare unsuspecting flies. Now and then, a
snake will glide across the pathway, harmless enough, if
you hear no rattle.

The lake itself is a beautiful sheet of water, several
miles in length. Its surface is agitated by the breeze,
as by a tidal force, and tiny waves are breaking on the
beach. A boat is launched, and rowed across ; its keel
grates upon the shingle in a sheltered cove, then the party
land and camp in pic-nic fashion. Woods close in the
lake on all sides, with an unbroken ring of green ; all is
still, except the plashing of waves over the pebbles.
In returning home we traversed the outskirts of the
swamp. Kough cattle were pasturing close to its edge,
but hunters only would care to penetrate further into its
recesses. We passed a lonely private burial-ground.
Even this secluded spot has its tale of tragedy. A bride,
who died on the morning of her wedding-day, before the
marriage-rite had been performed, was borne hither, and
laid to rest, with her bridal clothes upon her. She was
not long divided in death, from him she had loved ; for in
a few days, this solitary necropolis received another
tenant ; the lovers, joined by death, now sleep side by
side. In the neighbouring State of Rhode Island, there
are many of these private family-cemeteries.

I was a witness to the celerity with which Americans
repair damage to their bridges, from flood and fire. In
Vermont a freshet, and in Massachusetts a fire, had
destroyed a wooden viaduct. In a day and a half in each
case, the locomotive had "running powers" restored.

On Sunday I attended service at a little Puritan church
in the village. The order of worship was similar to that
of an English Congregational Chapel. Several home-

tunes, and Addison's noble Creation-hymn entered into
the service. The preacher's sermon was couched in the
spirit of earnest Protestantism. In New England,
"Congregational Chapels" are called " Calvinistic" or
fashionable churches, in contra-distinction to Unitarian
places of worship, which are numerous in the Pilgrim
State. The era of rude, stoveless *' meeting-houses" has
long since passed away in Eastern America. Could the
Puritan-fathers return to earth, they would find their
descendants, worshipping — still according to conscience
— but in beautiful temples. The walls of the one I speak
of, are tastefully painted in panels, the floor is carpeted,
and fans are placed in each pew for use on hot Sundays.
Very different is this luxurious upholstery, this wood-work
of choicest elm and mahogany, from the floor strewn with
hemlock-branches, and the rough plank-seats of early
forest-churches. I found much pleasure in visiting the
Sunday-schools. A teacher from Western America, had
said to me in England, a few months previously, "you
must come to our country to see Sunday-schools in all
their glory and usefulness. His words were true ; for
in the United States, all children — irrespective of class —
attendthe Sunday-schools with regularity and cheerfulness
We ought to take a lesson from New England, not only
in secular, but also in religious education of thp young.
The Puritans carried with them to the New World, the
old English custom of a childrens' festival on May Day.
At that time the weather is generally cold and wet ; so
the "fathers of the State" — in council assembled — have
for once legislated for young America — by changing this
favourite day of celebration to the first of June.

During the rebellion, a camp of 5,000 soldiers waB
formed in the vicinity of Walpole. Visiting the spot
with my friends, the conversation turned upon the war,

and to me became full of interest. Soldiers passed free
upon all the railways. The ladies were very patriotic ;
meetings were regularly held at their houses, to prepare
linen, and other things, to send to the soldier- volunteers
in the army. The Governor of Massachusetts was a long-
sighted man ; he had seen what was coming ; so that
when the first call for volunteers was made by President
Lincoln, the Massachusetts troops — ready armed and
equipped — were the first to march southward. There
were many instances of patriotic liberalityc Mr. Howe,
tt.e maker of sewing-machines, armed and clothed a
regiment of 1,000 men at his own expense, and served
with it for some time as a private soldier. Mr. Vanderbilt
purchased and fitted up a noble ship, at a cost of 1,000,000
dollars, called it by his own name, and preiented it to
the Federal Government. There were instances of
another kind. Grover and Baker found that rifles were
more called for than sewing-machines, so they adapted
their machinery, and were soon ready to take large con-
tracts for guns and pistols. One of my friends showed
me his certificate of exemption from the war-draft, for
which he had ^laid 300 dollars. Many Irish and German
emigrants were enlisted, immediately on landing at
Castle Garden ; they were feasted and toasted a*, the
nearest tavern, and when tliey cu.me to themselves next
morning, found that they were within the lines of the

army.

Among relics of the war, I was shown a small piece
of the telegraph submarine cable through which the order
was flashed to the Confederate soldiery in Fort Moultrie,
to fire the first shot on Fort Sumpter, while the Govern-
ment steamer, " Star of the West" was still engaged in
the peaceful mission of jiarleying. This shot opened the
''ball" of war, ruined the cause of the Confederacy— and set

the bondsmen free. I asked the question, ''What class
of officers displayed the most ability and reliableness ?"
I was told that when the war ended, all the chief, good
officers, were those of the regular army, men who had
received a military education at West Point — so true is
the old saying, *' every man to his own ti ade." Many
valuable officers, who rose to the rank of colonel or
general, during the four years of active service, are now
serving as lieutenants and captains, rather than leave the
army.

From talking of the war-times, we glided on to the
subject of the nationalities of emigrants, who are so con-
stantly and rapidly coming into the United States. While
there are perhaps a couple of Chinese in Boston, and a
couple of hundred of them in New York city, there are
a hundred thousand of these "Celestials" in San Fran-
cisco and the West. Thousands more are likely to follow,
not only to the "Golden West," but also to the cotton-
lands of the sunny South. Those from the North of
China, are generally frugal, thrifty and orderly ; they
save money, often returning to their own country to
spend it : some of their southern countrymen are dirty
and offensive in habits, and addicted to such crimes as
robbery and murder. Native Americans are alarmed lest
they should become too large an element in the nation ;
but at present they cannot ho spared as labourers. There
are now great numbers of negroes in the Northern States ;
many aie employed as waiters at hotels, and about the
docks. They generally work very well, and are often
quite as intelligent and trustworthy as Irish servants,
A negro will learn to read and write in a single winter,
and will understand your meaning at once. Americans
do not seem to like the Irish em j.nts, many of
whom, when they have earned a few dollars beforehand,

grow independent and disinclined to work, often leaving
their homes and families squalid and uncared for. It is
not all the fault of the Irish ; some of it lies at the door
of English rulers of Ireland, whose unfair laws have kept
the people ignorant, consequently discontented and
unhappy. We trust that these tHngs may now be
remedied by a just Parliament and a just Goverament.
** To the upright ariseth light in the darkness."

The Germans and Norwegians settle well, and are
order-loving. They change their language for the
Englisl\ and become ardently American at heart.
During my stay, there was a large gathering of Germans
at a rifle-shooting contest in New York. When I say that
amongst the thousands there assembled, from various
States, I neither saw, nor heard of any case of drunken-
nesR, it is the strongest testimony I can give of the self-
respect and steadiness of character which distinguish
the emigrants from Fatherland. I am told that the Irish
try to prevent the Bible from being read in the public
schools, where their children attend. The Pope is said
to be turning his eyes to America. Surely the language
of American delegate-Bishops, assembled at Eome, (1870)
must have opened the eyes of Pontiff Pius. To Peter's
successor, neither Supremacy nor Infalibility will be
accorded in the Great Eepublic. Puritan intolerance —
of old, occasionally manifested in witch-burning — had to
strike its colors to the spirit of a more liberal age. So it
must be with Romanism. 500 years ago the following
scene took place in Italy : —

Beraabo Visconti, Duke of Milan, had sheltered himself in the
Castle of Marignano during the dreadful plague prevailing in
Milan, where no means had been taken to stop it, and thereby
incurred the displeasure of the Pope. Bernabo, having received
intimation that the Pope had excommunicated him, arra;iged

that the meeting with the messengers should take place on the
Bridge over the river Lambro. The Duke surrounded by his
men-at-arms, received the two envoys, who, with the usual
genuflections, presented themselves btjfore him, and tenaered
the Pope's bull of excommunication. Beruabo, after attentively
reading it, turned to the cwo Nuncios, and asked them to choose
whether they would eat or drink. They, finding themselves
surrounded by enemies; and without any hope of escape, looking
at the river flowing at their feet, after being closely pressed as
to their choice, said they must decline to drink. * Then,' retorted
the tyrant, ' you shall eat,' and the two venerable prelates were
obliged to swallow the written parchment, leaden seals and all."

History of Milan, by Versi,

Then, there were bold Italians; now, there are
Americans still bolder and firmer. We earnestly hope
that there may never come into the New World that
struggle for supremacy, which in Europe raged so long
and terribly between Catholic and Protestant. We trust
that the people of America may guard with strong hands,
the full and perfect religious freedom, for which our
fathers and theirs, shed their blood so freely.

From home topics we turned to discuss foreign affairs.
Alaska had recently been purchased from Russia by the
United States. An American said to me "that the
negociation had been a huge political job, and commissions
on it have been paid all round." This newly acquired
territory seems only suitable for fishing and hunting,
during the short summer of the high latitudes which it
occupies. Daniel Webster's saying of New England,
"that it had nothing to export but granite and ice,"
might be more suitably applied to the peninsular of
Alaska. It is to the honor of America that she has gained
this new land by equitable purchase, when probably she
might have taken it for nothing — by a process of gradual
absorbtion.

In the evenings we gathered within the pleasant rooms
of the house. Bed and sitting-rooms were alike j ealously
guarded from the intrusion of mosquitoes, by gauze-
blinds on door and window, which admitted air, but
excluded those tribes of winged larauders. Lamps, fed
wi'/h oil from the springs of Petrolia, cast a cheerful light
around ; then I listened again and again to the college-
songs of my young friends ; and was not soon weary of
hearing the patriotic and pathetic " gathering songs"
which came into existence during the war-time.

My thoughts will be turned in kindly remembrance to
this home, as often as Thanksgiving-day comes round.
I will endeavour to describe this festival, which is ranked
in the hearts of New Englanders, as Christmas is by the
English. The President of the United States, and each
Governor of a State or Territory, join in issuing a pro-
clamation appointing the date for ''thanksgiving day,'
about three weeks before the time. It is generally fixed
for the Thursday nearest to the 28th November. Indian
Summer is just over, the last fruits of the season have
been gathered in. Then comes the celebration of the
good old custom — handed down from the days of the

Pilgrims.

The people a;

ssemDie in their churches, and

return thanks to the Great Giver for the bounties of the
year. Large flocks of wild-fowl are flying over the
country, to the South ; leaving summer feeding-grounds,
on the Great Lakes of the North, for the marshes of
Florida and the lagoons of Jamaica. Everything external
heralds the approach of winter, and then the absent-ones
of New England families assemble at the old home to
keep a joyful reunion.

A VILLAGE OF AECADIA,

li'liia is no Grecian fable, of fountains runnini; wine,
Of maids with snaky tresses, or sailors turned to swine.

Lays of Ancient Rome.
• • •, • « *

I am not obliged to go to the treasury of the fertile framers of
imaginary coiuinonwcalths ; not to the Republic of Plato, nor to
the Utopia of More, nor to the Oceana of Harrington. It is
bcfoio me— it is at my feet.

Edmund Burke.

'V\yR. 11 . had said to me during the outward voyage,
^-V;!' ♦<i>cfore you leave America, I should like
you to see how the New England people live in their
homes, away from large towns." Ho directed me to
Foxbro', giving me an introduction to Mr. Carpenter, an
old school-fellow of his, who lived there. Accordingly
1 drove over with one of the ladies of the W. household.
On (ur arriving at the door of the manse, the first
question which was put, \\ ith true Yankee humour, was,
" Are you two come to be married I" It is by no means
unusual in America, for young folks — and as for that
matter, old folks also — to wait upon the minister, to
engage his services officially, and to ask his blessing
upon an undertaking far more serious than our visit of
courtesy. This by-play over, the kind old clergyman
accompanied me to Mr. Carpenter's works. In the

waitinrr-room of tbe CFtnblishment lay a large-sized copy
of Webster's English Dictionary, placed there for the
use of all corner: ; this custom is general in New England
places of businr.-s.

Mr. C. ''? a fine old gentleman, quite a travelled man,
yet rath silent, lie seems to know Europe well, and
has evidently been a keen observer of men and things.
He introduced me to one of his partners, and then calling
in liis manager, Mr. T., said, "Will you show Mr. B.
all that is interesting about our works?" lie smilingly
added, "while you tell him all tliat he wishes to know,
mind tbat you ask questions, and obtain information Irom
him in return." In the factory is manufactured every
conciuviible article in the shajjo of hat or bonnet, nnide
from straw. The J'aw matcriiil, read}' plaited, is brought
from Italy, China, and South America.

250 men and 450 young women, are occupied u[)on tho
premises ; 2,000 females, living in the vicinity, also
received emplo3'nient in their own home-, fj-om the
establishment. The nature of the occupation is for the
most part clean and pleasant for females and those
engaged in it are of a high class in character and ability.
They come here from all parts of the Northern States to
earn money ; some to have means to keep their parents,
Kome to obtain funds to spend in dress, others wishing to
accumulate savings towards — by and by — fitting up a
home of their own. At half-pabt six in the morning work
commences, and is discontinued for the day at 8 in the
evening. All are paid by the piece, according to tho
amount of work they accomplish. Many of these young
folks who come "blooming" fromtheir homes at country
farm-houses, are tempted by the wage-reward to labour
so unremittingly, ttiat their health suffers ; the manager

notices their cbeoks bocoming bleached daily. Some of
them are school-teachers, who will take a winter-session
at the straw- works, and conduct a summer-school in tho
country, or vice versa,

Mr. T. says that tho most intelligent and highest paid
labour, leaves also tho largest share of profit to the firm.
Those young women, or rather young ladies — for such
they are by right of their education and character — are
comfortably accommodated in airy boarding-houses near
tho factory. As a whole, all whom I saw were pretty-
looking girls, bearing intelligence and refinement on their
countenances. It will be a happy day for Old England
when all her female factory- workers are as well-educated
as their cousi.is under Mr. Carpenter's rugime. Tho men
also receive good wages ; all live in homes of their own,
which will have cost from 2,000 to 3,000 dollars for
homestead and building. All have gardens ; Bome o^
them vineries ; and it is no uncommon thing for them
to possess a horse and carriage, in which they drive their
families out for an airing.,

The population of the village is 3,000 — all who can
work, and are willing, being employed in some capacity
at Mr. Carpenter's. The soil of Foxbro' is so rocky and
barren, that but for the straw-manufacture, it would be a
poor place. Never in my life have I seen such a degree
of solid comfort in a working community. These same
mechanics have by their thrift and industry reared houses
and called streets by their names. They dress very well
at their work, and oft«:n take a vacation each summer or
autumn, during quiet times in business. A proud
Spanish king once asked an ambassador concerning hia
credentials, ** Are you a gentleman ?" *'Ycs." " Whose
■on are you?" **0f my vii'tues," replied tho envoy ; by

this answer quife overcomingthe haughty monarch. These
men of Foxbro' might urgo the ambassador's plea. They
have broken through what Sir Edward Bulwer Lytton has
called **tho twin gaolers of humble birth and hard
fortune," they constitute a democracy which is in very
deed a demos-thencs, Foxbro' is a little more than a
model village, yet it is a type of many others in New
England.

I visited the High School, in which students, — male
and female — receive the last course of instruction, prior
to a Uni^T^ersity education. The rooms are as pleasantly
arranged, the desks as convenient and handsome as those
of first-class private schools in England. II any of my
readers have ever visited 13ramham College, Yorkshire,
they may take it as an example of the educational
excellence, to which American High Schools attain.
Lessons extend from 8.30 a.m. to 1 p.m., and are then
over, there being no afternoon session. Foxbro* with
its 3,000 people, raises 5,000 dollars for education each
year ; though it is the heaviest tax on the townspeople,
none is paid so willingly. The masters receive salaries,
varying from £100 to £500 per annum. The State of
Massachusets has 3 Normal Schools, for educating or
training male and female teachers, free of expense, on their
promising to become school-masters and school- *mams,'
for 2 or 3 years after quitting the Normal Alma Mater.

In the middle of Foxbro' is a '* green," handsomely
railed in ; accommodating in its centre, an orchestra for
the band which plays 2 or 3 evenings weekly, during
summer and autumn, for the pleasure and at the expense
of the townspeople. The local authorities have voted a
■um of money to build a memorial-hall, in honor of those
men from among them, who fell in the Northern armiesi

iSgbting for the Constitution. The building has been
commenced, and when completed will be used as a
public reading-room.

Mr. M. drove me through a quiet avenue to the ceme-
tery. I constantly visited the resting-places of the dead
wherever I journeyed in America, believing that a
necropolis is to some extent, a reflex or index of village
or metropolis of the living. In the present instance we
approach by a retired entrance, passing under an archway,
bearing the inscription, ** Rockville, 1853." The land
has been waiting for its solemn purpose, for hundreds,
aye, thousands of years. It is rocky and full of slopes ;
at the bottom roll the waters of a pretty lake. There is
a vault in the hill-side for the reception of coffins during
winter, (when the ground is frozen 2 or 3 feet in depth,)
until graves can be dug in spring. Within the cemetery,
they have now discontinued the use of freestone for
memorial-columns, for it crumbles away, but granite
endures for ever. In coming away we passed the
blackened ruins of Mr. C's. mansion, (which a fire had
destroyed) : by and by, another and statelier manor-house
will rise upon the spot where ouce stood his father's
humble homestead.

The manufacturing interest has now become very strong
in New England, there being clusters of mills in Bhode
Island, Connecticut, Massachusets and Maine. One of
these bee-hive-towns — Lawrence — has sprung up with
mushroom rapidity — good wages acting as a diviner's rod
in building up a population. I journeyed to it by rail*
passing en route many places the names of which sounded
familiar yet strange ; for from Wyoming wo proceeded
to Melrose, from Melrose to Beading. They were the

old conntry na s mingled with others of Trans- Atlantic
origin ; yet differ, q strangely in geof^raphical position
from namesakes in. Britain.

On the banks of Merrimac river stand 4 or 5 largo
factories, called by such names asWasbington, Pemberton,
Atlantic and Pacific. Powerful water-wheels, turned by
the stream, furnish motive-power which keeps thousands
of spindles and looms busy at work. These mills are all
the property of Joint Stock Companies, being to somo
extent owned by capitalists in Boston and New York.
At present, during the existence of a high tariff on foreign
goods, they are earning money fast for fortunate stock-
holders. Four thousand people are employed at tho
largest mill in Lawrence, and the rate of wages paid to
them is higher than in England. The girls or young
women, who can manage looms for cotton and woollen
fabrics, and at tho carpet-mills of Lowell will earn
£2 weekly ; and like Cornish miners, they only receive
their money once a month. I had an opportunity of
examining the machinery generally in use ; I saw
the shawls and poplins, cottons and woollens which
are hel'e manufactured ; and was much pleased v/ith all.
The machinery is ingenious, and the fabrics produced are
almost on a par with those of English and French manu-
facturo. There is no reason why they should not be fully
equal, or even superior, for the high wages paid in
America, induce the best men from both countries to go
out to the United States, carrying their ability and
experience with them.

From Lawrence I drove to Lowell, which is distant
about 9 miles. For some way, the road lay along tho
banks of the Merrimac, vvhich is here a noble river. It
was full of hsh a short time ago, but as manufactures and

itant
the
It
and

fish cannot divide the Eorereignty of the stream, tho
latter, being tho weaker, are becoming fewer and fewer
every year. A large dam has been made across the river,
80 that the water may be taken off by a canal, to turn the
numerous waterwhecls. Lowell is great in cotton-mills,
and the higli character which its female operatives have
gained for steadiness, economy and prudence has almost
})assed into a proverb. While I was here, a fire broke
out at one of the mills, but the bell on the city-hall tower
gave the ularni, and the fire engines were quickly on the
spot, and the flames got under. Skilled artizan-emigranta
from the Old World are constantly streaming into these
busy manufucturing towns ; and New England having
taken the lead in spinning and weaving, will probably
maintain it, in tho face of all the continent.*

From life in these New England manufacturing towns,
our thoughts often wandered far away to other arid distant
parts of the Union. We talked of California, which seems
to us the finest and most prodigally endowed province of
America. Some of its valleys are wonderfully rich and
prolific. It would astonish my English friends to hear
Oalifornians talk of their country ; of its mighty pine
trees, its wonderful pears and grapes, and leviathan
vegetable growths. Even its very trees yield ivory ; and
you learn that the finest wheaten flour now comes from
the land of the Golden Gate. In fact it produces every-
thing that is found in the other States, and treasure of
gold as well. Here nature yields tho good gifts of tropical
lands, blessing her gifts with the coolest of breezes, to
drive away lassitude and indolence from the dwellers in
this sunny land. In California's riches above and below

* Georgia and North Curolina however, ;iie becoming formid-
ahlo competitors with New Eugland in cotton sj)inning.

the soil, wo seem to h. vo the realization of ancient
prophesy— ''that the plouphmr < shall overtake the reaper,
and the treader of grapes him that sowcth seed, and the
mountains shall drop sweet wine, and all the hills shall
melt."

Then our conversation turned on Florida. It is 1,400
miles from New England to the "Land of Flowers;" yet
the distance is overcome by numbers of invalids, who
yearly si;ok in this Southern land, a refuge for com*
sumption. They generally reside there from November
to May, when tropi'^al heat drives them northward again.
Mrs. Stowo has pur^Jiascd a home in Florida for her son,
and is remaining there during the winter. On the **sea
islands" alcng the coast, is grown the finest cotton in the
world ; yet much of the interior of the country is sandy
and marshy, aa attested by numerous barrens end
cypress-swamps. Considerable portions of the State
remain as wild as when Ponce de Leon sailed through its
reel-like keys, and the first Spanish settlers landed upon
itb shores. On the St. John river, the mullet jumps up
from the water into the boat, at the sight of a light ; and
on Deer Island grow wild all the fruits of the earth that
the heart of man can desire. In spite of panther and
bear, which are yet plentiful on Indian-river, in spite of
sandy wastes and gloomy swamps, the land is beautiful.
Under the feet a garden of flowers, and the bluest of heavena
Bending above, and resting its dome on the walls of the forest.

One of the ladies of the W. household. Miss Fanny G,
had come to Europe along with Mrs. Stowe. At Liverpool
Mr. L. the London publisher, met the authoress of "Uncle
Tom's Cabin ;" and he had arranged for her party to laud
without the annoyance of passing through the custom-
house. I was very glad to hear of such a compliment
being paid to this gL'ced American lady. A well-known

Scottish Dnko presented plail shawls— woven in tho
pattern and colore, of tho tartan of his own clan— to
Mrs. Stowo and Lor lady friends. I have no doubt
that they aro carefully treasured up a^ souvcniors in many
an American home. Tho address to Mrs. Stowe presented
by the Duchess of Sutherland, and signed by many
thousands of my country-women, was highly prized by
her. The long lists of signatures were bound up into eight
largo volumes, and placed in a Epec^ial bookcase in
her library at Hartford. Valuable money results must
have flowed in upon tho publication of her two best
works. On iier return from Europe sho had a fancy-
house or mansion built in Hartford. It was something
It the style of a Moorish mansion, with covered court-
yard, quadrangle and conservatory. Bub in a year or two
she sold it, and is now in Florida, as has been previously
stated.

THE ATHENS OF NEW ENGLAND.

ij^UESS you'll have to take care of your limba in this
^ here country, for our carrying companies aint no
ways responsible for em ;" was the advice tendered to
me when I took the cars for Boston. The United States
railway system has received its greatest development in
Massachusets. On the lines centring in and round Boston,
you find a nearer assimilation than elsewhere to the Old
World plan. The conductors on these railroads are dis-
tinguishable by blue uniforms, whereas on other lines,
the only mark of offic' ^1 position which they bear, is a
small metal badge on the breast. On the Boston and
Albany Railway, they have begun to run a few cars
constructed on the English principle, for which accom-
modation rather higher fares are charged. The stations
(or depdts in American parlance) are also fitted up with
studied provision for passengers' comfort.

In front of the " Revere House." is a triangular space
of open street. Here was ^*:he rendezvous of the progression,
which met to honour General Sherridan's visit to the city
in 1867« There was u rush to see. the famous cavalry
general, [and the friend who described the scene to me,
was himself borne do"^ i. and trampled upon by the crowd.

I went as in duty bound, to see Long Wharf, where the
famous chests of tea were tumble^^ into the water, acquir-
ing thereby a notoriety, which will probbly never again

fall to the lot of hieroglyphic-covered cases from China,
during tea-growing ages. To Bunker Hill, too, a
pilgrimage was made, I, listening the while to this story
told by my companion, an American lawyer. Once upon
a time an Englishman, visiting this historical shrine, and
looking up with straining eyes to the summit of the
monument, was informed "Here the gallent "Warren
fell." Our countryman, just at that moment full of specu-
lation as to the epecific gravity of falling bodies, dreamily
replied, "Was he killed V Oh, said his Yankee informant,
" Is this all you English know of American history ?" No
doubt he thought the Islander lamentably ignorant, and
60 he was ; an ignorance only matched by a lady-citizen
of the West, who at her tea-table, while dispensing honey
and strawberries in hospitable manner, gravely asked mo
if the Scottish people were not held in a state of bondage
by Queen Victoria ? I looked in upon Faneuil Hall which
has so often resounded with eloquent speeches on liberty.
I visited the noble granite warehouses in Summer Street,
and stood in pleased astonishment before the City Hall,
with its Grecian front of gleaming white.

I passed on to Boston ** Common," where English and
American elms are growing side by side, the leaves of
the latter bending gracefully down in their summer
beauty. 7 b^Hed before the railed-in remains of the oM
*< Liberty Tree," with genuine reverence for the freedom
it personified.

One touch of nature makes the whole world kin,
and when I heard how in a winter storm, a bough from
the old witness-tree had been torn ofi" by the wind, and
how every inch of its sacred timber had been apportioned
and carried off in fragments by citizens— not uiually
given to relic-hunting — in the face of, and in spite
of a protesting police, I felt that Johnny would have

med
ally
pite
lave

done much the same us Jonathan under similar circum-
Btances. I would myself have asked for a fragment of
the forest-spoil to treasure up as my in memoriam on
Liberty.

Below the Common, roll the waters of a little lake.
Its basin has been won from the marshy, tide-washed
wastes of the harbour. Hard by is a flower garden, with
fringe of bright green shrubs. In the midst of evergreen
bushes, looking upon the pathway stands a statue of
Everett ; in front of a clump of laurels is another
monument, to one who though no politician, was a true
benefactor to humanity, a liberator in the truest sense .
The features which the artist has cunningly graven on
the stone are those of Morton. His discovery of the
power of ether to soothe the sense of suffering during
surgical operations, has given him rank as an initiator of
that era, which has been told of in the Revelation. Upon
the pedestal below is written

THERE SHALL BE NO MORE PAIN. •

Round the Common, which is closed in on every side

by leafy sentinels, roars the traffic of the city ; but under
the trees there is quietness and upon the lake there is
peace. Pleasure-bcats are upon the water, and the merry
crews in them are proud to hoist the banner of the stars
and stripes. Doves are flitting to and fro, fortheirhome
is upon a tiny island in the lake. A troop of children are
playing under the sliady poplar trees, poplars whose
glossy dark green leaves, are so unlike the smaller tribes
of England and France, that it is evident the poplar- race
has undergone a " sea change" since it left Europe, and
in the New "World has grown up " into something rich
and strange."

• Morton was the discoverer of sulphuric-ether. The lata
Professor Simpson found out, and brought into use chloroform.

s,..

Turning into the oldest and most aristocratic thorough-
fare of Boston, we pass a mansion which has a charm for
me well nigh as great as Abbotsford; for here lived
Prescott, when not residing at his country home of
Pepperhill. The houses are literally covered with
climbing creepers, and the windows look out upon the
shady common. All seems so quiet and peaceful, that it
is hard to think as true, the saying of Wendell Phillips
that ** the Devil lived in Beacon-street." Ho had in hia
mind certain rich brewers who kept house and home in
the old street of the English. He was at that time engaged
in a great temperance-battle, and his thoughts were
perhaps wandering back to certain gardens at Oxford,
where stout old "William of Wj'^keham had declared 500
years before, that not riches but "manners maketh man."

I had the pleasure of seeingMr. Phillips. He is growing
grey, yet still retains his great powers undimmed and
unabated. He is one of America's noblest sons. He has
ever been the unflinching friend of the negro. 6 or 8
years ago, in this very city, he was mobbed, for taking
the side of the slave, but the tide of opinion has long
since turned, and now he is again in honour, and lives to
Bee his work accomplished. Mr. Motley, the one-time
historian, and now ambassador to England, lived over the
river St. Charles. He is much respected by his fellow-
citizens. The greater part of his life has been spent in
Europe, and not amongst them, yet his character and
works represent him. From Beacon-street it was but a
step to the New State House on the hill, commanding a
fine prospect of the city below. Within, the entrance-hall
is fancifully guarded by small brass cannon taken from
'he English in 1775 ; and embalmed in glass recesses, the
flags borno by the Massachusets regiments during the
Kebellioo, are preserved with pious care. Massachusetu

T.
T]

£0

may well be proud of her pons. The glories of tbe old
State House have loiif^ since given place to the cries o^
commerce, and the shoutings of the exchange.

The ** old South Church" still stands, and all pasaei's
by learn from its too legible proclamation, that it was
" desecrated by British troops" during the War of
Independence. The present generation of Americans and
Englishmen, can we trust look upon such spectacles
without any feeling of bitterness, and rather in the spirit
of kindliness and peace, which the German poet tells iis
of in his "Lay of the Bell." It is only a little while ago.
since I was worshipping in the time-honored Temple
Church in London. In that hcly place, (about the time
of the first gathering of the ** Old South," then a ** Sion
in the Wilderness") the Puritans had embellished tlie
Crusaders' Temple — according to their simple tastes — by
garnishings of whitewash ; and Cromwell'slronsides were
littering their horses among the altar-tombs of the
Templars. Thinking of these things, I feel no savage
thoughts towards the Puritans ; they served well their
country and their countrymen, and had I lived in those
times I should have fought under their banners. Their
descendants have been among the first to appreciate and
uphold the glory of all that is beautiful in modern
architecture and art, looking only to the results which
their ancestors achieved for freedom. So America and
England should now^ be glad at heart, for the freedom
won and kept, by the founding of the United States upon
the ruins of the Puritan colonies.

Stand with me for a moment before the "Masonic
Temple" in Tr-^mont-street and share my admiration.
This pile of granite architecture, with its perpendicular
gothic turrets, is a fitting memorial of the wealth and
numbers of those who are joined together in si-ciei-
Bociotios in the United Stales.

In the City Library, (free to all the people) we noticed

the familiar faces of English magazines, strewn among

American contemporaries. "With European nations, and

more especially with English-speaking peoples, a taste

for cosmopolitan knowledge is in the ascendant. While

we believe that the ** service of the pen," was never more

ably and fearlessly represented than by Old Country

writers of the day, we cheerfully agree with Goethe, who

said,

I always consult foreifjn nations, and advise everyone to do tho
same. National literature will do but little. The epoch of a
literature of the world is at hand, and every one ought to labour
to hasten it.

At Messrs. Ticknor and Field's, I found myself
at once in the centre and heart of American literary
publications. I heard a good deal about the visit of Mr.
Dickens to Boston. So great v ihe desire to hear his
readings, that long strings of peo^ie assembled overnight,
in the street, before the office doors, to take their turns
in buying tickets. Mr. Dickens would never forget tho
kindness, and sympathetic literary encouragement, which
he received from the Bostonians.* In this, the capital of
American literary life and effort, we regret the absence
of an honest law of copyright with England. There is
hope that a treaty — equally just to authors in both
countries — will be concluded ere long. If not, let
England herself take the lead in this matter of literary
justice, and in time America will follow.

Tho museum is well worthy of a careful examination,
although it is but a faint type of that larger and national
one, which professor Agassiz has set his heart upon
forming, in the land of his adoption, for the American
people.

* Charles Dickens is dead. Americans and Euglishmen will hear him
no more. But he has bequeathed a legacy to the world«wide clan of
EagUiib-speakuig peoples.

let
[•ary

ion I
)nal

ican

him
of

Before leaving Boston we must pay a flying visit to the
green squares and pleasant mansions of Eoxburg ; and of
course we must look in at ""i oung's" to dine; for Young's
is quite an institution in the city, and the company of
intelligent negroes who wait upon you, is an embodiment
of Boston life, to be long remembered. "We may cross
the threshold of the English Church, which still bears tho
nameof King's Chapel. We wander through the Navy
Yard, amid piles of shot and shell, and the iron ribbed forms
of extinct Monitors, — we must needs inspect the fashions
in Washington Street, the Bond Street of the Massachu-
sets capital ; and we will take a sail down the harbour,
and spend a day amongst its islands and defences.

Let no one say that the people of Boston are unmindful
of their old fatherland, after reading the following
incident : —

" On the 21st July, 1857, an ancient chapel on the south-west
iide of the larish Church at Boston, England, was re-opened by
the Bishop of Lincoln — after having been partially restored at
the cost of the inhabitants of Boston, United States of America.
This was done to perpetuate the memory of the Kev. John Cotton,
a pious minister, who in 1632 was vicar of tha' Parish; but
being silenced for nonconformity, was compellea to leave the
kingdom. He fled to Boston in America, and became the first
minister of the newly-founded city. The memorial-brass in the
chapel contains words in Latin, composed for it by the Hon.
Edwfird Everett.

A drive through tho pleasant suburb of Cambridge Port
brings us to the University of Harvard — the leading ono
in the United States. Were all the colleges in America
gathered together in one place, they would be small and
unpretending, compared with Oxford or Cambridge in
England. Yet I approach Harvard with genuine respect,
not only because it is a centre of national learning, but
on account of the interest attaching to those who founded
it. The historian records,

While yet Massachtisets had only been settled 20 years, and
hui only 4,000 colonists, the people voted £400 to found a

Tliis act has been one of the key-stones of American
pioflperity and strength. The 15 colleges which compose
the University of Harvard, are, it is true, very insignificant
^vhon compared with the edifices founded by kings and
qneen;i, cardinals and archbishop?, on the banks of the
Lsia. Gore Hall is not to be classed with the Divinity-
Rfrhool, or Parliament Hall at Oxford ; and Appleton
Chapel is insignificant by the side of King's Chapel, at
Cambridge — but they are open to all the people. To them
aro called, not only ♦' the noble and mighty," but the
poor also

A young friend who had studied at this University,
showed me the "lions" of his ''alma mater." We visited
the President's house, and the dwellings of the masters,
ni(!knamed Professors' Row. On the Delta the students
wore playing at their game of base-ball, with all the
energy of school-boys at Eton and Rugby. Here is the
tree, which on a certain festive occasion, is garlanded with
wroaths of flowers, and round which goes on the merry
dunce, when sisters and friends come down to tho
University. My friend stood silent for a moment under
tliia tree, probably thinking of the day when he won his
diploma, and in celebratian of it snatched a garland from
the wreath of flowers above, and then he quietly led the
Vi^ay to Longfellow's house. As we walked up the garden-
j)ath, under blooming lilacs, there was no sign of life ;
no sound, save the shrill cry of the locust. The house is
closed ; for the poet is far away among the Swiss moun-
tains, or the groves of Florence ; spending a long
vacation amid Old-World scenes. In the days of the
Revolution, here came Washingon, and made it his head-

qnarters, after assuming the command of the American
army, under a shady elm a little distance away. Every
care is taken to preserve these two landmarks of house
and tree, and no doubt they will stand firm for many a
year to come. The verandah of Longfellow's house is
embowered in clusters of coral-honeysuckle, with whorla
of orange flowers ; and the old rusty knocker still remains
on the door, as when "Aides-de-camp" and messengers
from Congress used to announce their arrival to tho
Genn'al.

All round is classic ground, for here have lived such
men as Hawthorn and Holmes ; and through the green
shrubberies I can see the gables of homes in which the
poet James Eussell Lowell and the literateur Worcester
now reside. Emerson lives at Concord. His peculiar
views on natural religion (a la Carlylej are well known
in England. Eound his New England home have gathered
a circle of kindred minds. Few people in England know
of the sad berevement which befell Mr. Longfellow a few
years ago, Mrs. Longfellow was burnt to death, her
dress having caught fire while she was making sealing-
wax models for the amusement of her children. Her
death was deeply felt by all who knew her, and especially
by the people of Cambridge, for she was an amiable and
kind lady. Shortly after the sad event, her husband
retired from the Professor's chair, which he had so well
and ably occupied at Harvard University,

Very near to Cambridge, is the beautiful cemetery of
Mount Auburn, The Englishman finds here a develop-
ment of American character which he did not expect.
I bad visited "P^re la Chaise'' and bad witnessed the
fond homage which the French people render to their
dead. I bad there seen tbs little memorial-cbapelS| reared

by the side of immortelle-wreathed tombs ; and then
little dreamt of finding in America, an equally touching
devotion io the memory of the departed. Walking in
Mount Auburn cemetery, along avenues of cypress and
maple, you are constantly reminded of the sentiment of
Catholic "Perela Chaise," only hero it has received a
Protestant development, and this has scattered the gloomy
and sombre associations of the French burial-ground.
This Sentiment is especially manifested in the decking of
the soldiers' graves. On Memorial Day, (May 1870)
the people of New England vied with each other, in
rendering a renewed tribute of gratitude to the slain.
The commonwealth of the Six States — for one day at least
— entered into the spirit of the mourning Prince in
Cymbeline, —

"With fairest flowers,

While summer lasts, and I live here Fidele,

I'll sweeten thy sad grave.

Mount Auburn is a true Necropolis. In vaults far
under the hill-slopes, sleep the dead ; their memories
perpetuated by many a mausoleum of marble, by many a
sculptured urn. The smoke-bush sheds its snow-white
blossoms round about broken columns of granite, both
witnessing to the mutability of human life ; whilst bright
flowers whisper hope ; imagination claiming them as

Emblems of our own great resurrection,
Emblems of the bright and better land.

In the small cemetery-chapel on the hill, the day-light
streams softly in, through coloured windows,

TJnd Marmorbilder steh'n und sch'n mich an :
Was hat man dir, du armes Kind, gethan ?
The quiet faces of Storey and Otis, Adams and Winthrop,

graven in marble, are ailent witnesses of every funeral
train. As 1 drove back into the streets of Boston, they
were thronged with blue-coated volunteer soldiery,
marching along to the strains of the national hymn.

It is a mistake to suppose that the Pilgrims landed on
Plymouth rock ; the boats from the Mayflower put them
ashore on the sand or beach near the famous rock. Little
of it now remains, and that remnant is railed in, and
covered over, so that further depredations upon the
historic strata are impossible. It is intended to erect a
noble monument upon the spot, and subscriptions are
now being gathered for the purpose. My friend Mr.
Douglas, showed me a drawing of the proposed monument ;
on the top will be placed a figure of "Faith," and on the
sides — executed in bas-relief — will be portrayed those
two memorable scenes, " the signing of the compact for
Civil Government in the cabin of the Mayflower ;" and
"the Pilgrims lighting a fire of pine-wood on first
landing." In Brooklyn a memorial of Plymouth rock is
preserved, for a block, of the stone has been built into
the walls of the " Church of the Pilgrims."

New Bedford is the Peterhead or Aberdeen of New
England, the great centre for whaling-fleets. In pro-
portion to its population, it is said to be the richest city
in the United States ; and one of its citizens told me that
he thought it could boast the finest villas of any maritime
city in America. This however is hearsay only, for I did
not pay it a visit. The picture of life incident to crews
of "whaling" and "sealing"-ships, which Cooper sketched
in his " Sea Lions," is (with certain amenities of the age
added) true to-day. Men will be absent from their homes
for 20 months or so ; all the sailorn are partners in the
venture, and inire paid when the ships enter port. An

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officer in the *' crow-nest" service of New Bedford
regretted to me, the absence in the United States of that
government supervision, which compels payment to the
sailors of their wages, in the presence only of its ov/n
officers or inspectors — a guarantee-privilege which the
English isailor enjoys. For morj than 150 years, the
whaling-fleets of New England have taken the lead of all
nations. At this day New Bedford is the largest whaling-
port in the world.

CONNECTICUT VALLEY.

1 have brought you, like "Pilgrim," to the lop of the

Delectable Mountains, that I may show you a-l the goodly

regions hereabouts/'

Scott to Irving.

s:F>I^IIs^G■:PI:E3IJID-

f OMING up from New York by the night-train, I
i-^ reached the town early in the morning, and was
giad to seek a resting-place at the hotel near the station.
Like many things in America, it has received an Indian
name — Massasoit. This is without exception, one of the
best managed hotels in the United States. Many are
more pretentious in appearance, but hero every ifiing is
so clean and orderly. From the home-farm attached to
the hotel, are drawn all such supplies as cream, butter,
eggs, and vegetables, in the perfection of freshness and
goodness. Springfield pleases me much. How shall I
describe the town, and its sylvan surroundings ; both
being among the bonniest in New England ?

The United States' Arsenal is pleasantly situated upon
a hill. The grounds round it are neatly enclosed with
hedges, and everything wears a very trim appearance,
both inside and outside. I went over the workshops ;
very few men were at v ork, and nearly all the machinery
was standing idle. During the war, hundreds of men
were employed ; the machinery was worked day and

night, and the clang of v, capon- making only ceased on
Sundays. The armoury itself is a large brick building,
painted c'ark chocolate and light drab ; with a square
tower, from which the United States' flag is flying. In it
are stored 800,000 muzzle-loading rifles on the Enfield
plan. No new ones have been made for some time, and
the authorities have not yet decided upon the style of
breach-loader to be adopted for use in the army. The
store-rooms are all locked up, and you look through glass
doors upon the array of deadly weapons within.

I was handling one of the rifles, with bayonet fixed,
when the man in charge said I should make a good
soldier ; I replied that there was scope for good riflemen
at home. There is a curious collection of old fire-arms
and weapons which have been gathered up on the battle-
fields Guns battered and bruised, bent and twisted ;
old-fashioned fowling-pieces from the stores of planters ,
and heavy clumsy Kentucky rifles of 50 or 60 years ago,
such as you could imagine to have been used by pioneers
like Daniel Boone. Also small heavy cannon, with leathern
belts attached for carrying them over the mountains and
through the forest, and rusty bayonets taken from the
Southern soldiers. But in these armoured chambers,
peace reigns to-day. May her reign endure for ever.
The Irish gate-keeper at the Arsenal seemed very wishful
to talk with me, and asked about the French Armaments,
and of old Ireland. He told me that he came from East
Munster to America 10 years ago, thr last cow was taken
from his mother by the landlord, theii there was nothing
for the family but emigration. When he knew of the
struggle we were making in England to act justly to
Ireland, he seemed much pleased, and said, " Many Irish
will return when justice is done to Old Ireland" ; he
himself still loved the old cou itry best.

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The prospect from the tower wus glorious. There lay
the broad vale I'eneath, beautiful as an imagined Atlantis.
Amidst well-wooded flats was seen the river's winding
course ; church-spires, mills, and white houses diversified
nature's greenery. Over the whole scene was thrown
the mantle of Indian Summer. Of that magic mingling
of colours, words can give no idea. Tints of amber and
brown, yellow and crimson, purple and pink, gold and
silver, are stamped on the leaves of the forest- trees, as
the last gift of the yeai . The ever-green pine trees are
there too, and the picture of plain, river, village and
many-hued forest, is closed in by a cordon of black and
purple hills. It is not only the forest-trees which have
assumed the colors of Joseph's coat, in their autumn
liveries : for the swamps also are a perfect rose-bud of
brilliant coloring. Golden-rod, lilac thistle, and crimson
sumach are mingled together, and the great ridge of
shale through which the railroad cutting runs, is spangled
with leaves of yellow and green to its summit. I can
scarcely take my eyes oflffor a moment, or drink in enough
of the glorious Indian Summer landscape. Though the
foliage looks so gorgeous at a distance, it is tJiat distance
which *' lends enchantment to the vie\v," for if you come
to examine the leaves in detail, you find decay stamped
upon each. Their appearance seems to remind us, that
We do wither and fade as a leaf.

In Baltimore, I had seen spf n'raen.^ of fading leaves,
painted by a Virginian lady, and undev these emblems of
fast-waning life, she had recorded the thoughts of the
Psalmist. A young gentleman from Few Bedford, who
was my companion on the tower, had been told that the
leaves of English trees do not change color in autumn.
Remembering certain oaks in Richmond Park, and the
elms and limes at Twickenham, which seemed in their

Octobor-dress to be bung with goldei: guineas, I can
confidently assure him that he had been misinformed.

*' If I ever come to live in America, I shall choose
Connecticut as my State, and Middle l-own as my home,"
said I to my friend Mr. Douglas. *' Guess it's as well
you know the exact location of my Middletown, for there
are 26 of the same name in the United States." ** How can
I possibly forget its situation, seeing that I have
approached it from Berlin, a New World Berlin, inhabited
by English-speaking peoole" I This little dialogue
took place on calling to see my friend in his native town.
I had traversed the State of Connecticut through its length
and breadth, and had derived infinite pleasure therefrom.
I had rambled by the side of its beautiful river, whose
many windings and bonnie islands had often reminded
me of our own Thames — pure and fresh-flowing in Berk-
shire. Yellow-tinted ferns fringed its banks ; up the
trunks of trees had climbed legions of creeping vines,
and their dark shadows hung over the blue waters.
Water-lilies floated on the surface of quiet ponds, back
from the stream. In the broad fields of the valley had
grown up tall and strong, ranks of Indian corn ; the work
01 husking was going on blithely by sun-burnt farmers.
Pleasant villages and towns are frequent, the people have
a healthy, English-like look of strength and vigour.

The farmers have to work hard during summer, but in
winter their labour is less. After doing the "chores"
about home, early in the day, the young men take their
axes into the forest. Work first, play after — and some-
how they manage to *' edge in" a large slice of the latter.
Nature helps them. Mufiled in furs, it is a wonderfully
nice ihing to take a sledge-ride, over frozen roa^^n, with
a pleasant companion at your side. It is a cheering sight

to look down on the main-street of a little country town
in mid- winter, and to watch the families driving in their
sleighs to church on Sunday. The bells on the horses'
necks ring lively changes with the steeple-calls.

I had passed the rapids in the river, and coming
to "Windsor Locks, could almost fancy myself looking
out upon the vale of Old World Windsor, but for the
absence of Eton spires, and the Castle-towers. Be sure
and see •* Student's Glen" had been id to me ; but
instead of finding one "Students' xen," of limited
bounds the whole valley was a continued glen of equal
beaut} and delight.

In the streets of Middlotown, the leaves were already
dropping fast on to the pathway, in a fortnight the trees
would all be bare. It is a pleasant English-like town.
Its first settlers came from Hartf-^rd in 1650, and
already its 12,000 people have celebrated a second
centenary of its foundation. The settlement was peace-
fully made ; the land being bought from the Indians in
exchange for wampum and scarlet j ackets. A deed, between
red-men and pale-faces, was duly drawn up and signed.
All these historical details I gathered from Mr. Douglas,
as he drove me through the town. We passed Portland
Quarry close by, in which 1,000 men are employed in
excavating the good brown sand-stone. It is called after
the Portland in England. My guide knew all about the
'latter and its convict-labourers.

I must tell my English friends a little about Mr.
Douglas, at the risk of drawing aside very gently, the
veil of private life. Our acquaintance had begun and
ripened on shipboard, and was cemented during a visit to
his beautiful New England town. He knew quito well,
that his ancestors had come from Scotland 220 years ago,
(following closely upon the footsteps of the earlier

pilgrims) but until 1867, he had not visited Europe.
The Paris Exhibition had been the magnet which drew
him from his Connecticut home. He then visited Great
Britain and was specially delighted with Scotland. In
the following spring, he again visited Europe, bringing
with him his young son. He told me that his former
visit had convinced him that he could not make a better
investment for his boy, than by taking him from school
for a few months, and bringing him to see the Old World
of Europo — the land of his ancestors. Little Eddie
Douglas seemed just the lad to profit to the full by his
father's kindness.

Father and son visited Stirling Castle, and stood in the
Douglas room, in which their namesake — the hero of
Scottish history — died. They had many warm thanks
for Queen Victoria's care in ordering the re. -ation of
this ancient historical chamber. The old oak-roof was
destroyed by fire somo years ago, but from the charred
beams which were saved from the flames, some curious
souveniers had been designed. My friend's memento
was a volume of " the Lady of the Lake" bouno up with
boards of this salvage-oak. He traces back his family to
the times of the great Douglas of Scotland, and points
with pleasurable pride to the crest of the "bleeding
heart" which he has adopted as his own. I know no man
in America more worthy to wear the honor- and to per-
petuate the glory of this escutcheon ; or who more firmly
acts up to its accompanying motto of ** Jamais derriSre."
In Maryland arid Virginia, there has always been kept
alive a fondnoss for old-country heraldry, but to find tha
eame feeling in New England was what I did not expect.

It was a matter of regret to Mr. Douglas that he had
not visited Europe 25 or 30 years ago. In his own land
he has won a high position. He was president of 6he

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National Bank ; amongst other curiosities, he showed me
the first note which was issued bearing his signature. A
little while before, he had held the oflRce of Lieutenant
Governor of his State, but all these honors he bears very
modestly and quietly. It was entertaining and instructive
to go over his Works in Middletown, in which several
hundred men are employed. From what I saw, my idea
of American mechanical ingenuity was still further
confirmed. I parted from my kind friend at the station,
" I do not expect to come to England again," said he,
"but I trust you will soon revisit America, and if so,
do not fail to come and stay with me." No father could
be kinder to a son, than was this American gentleman to
myself, a comparative stranger. He is as genuine and
true of heart as the Puritans from whom he is descended.

Before leaving Middletown, I sought out a quiet home
of learning — the Divinity-school — which is presided over
by the Bishop of Connecticut. A young friend from New
York ftxpected to spend two or three years here, and I
wishe i to see his quarters. Chatting with his fellow-
students, pleasant kindly young gentlemen, one of them
asks me ** if any but Church of England men can sit in
our House of Commons, and hold public office"? I soon
set him him right on this point, A bright, happy time
will L. enjoy in this nest of " retired leisure," As I sit
in my library at home — 3000 miles of ocean separating us
— I often think of his Middletown home, I fancy myself
in his study ; hanging-baskets of flowers adorn the
windows, climbing creepers cover the outside, and a
canary sings its sweet song all day long. L, is at his
quiet labours ; ever and anon his eye looks out upon the
green quadrangle ; and he^^thinks perchance of an English-
man who has also trodden these haunts.

On the right bank of the Connecticut river stands
this beautiful city. I went first to see its college of
'* Trinity," and found it picturesquely situated on a hill
side, its outer walls covered with crimson leaves, after
!;he fashion of Magdalen Tower et Oxford. One of its
Professors showed me all I wanted to see, with much
kindness and politeness. He tells rae that nearly all his
brother-Professors have visited England ; he intends to
come over next year and looks forward to the time with
pleasure. At the bottom of an avenue calied by its name,
is pointed out the site of the famous ** Charter Oak," of
which the Hartford people are still so proud to tell.
A few years ago, the tree itself was blown down, ; but
from its wreck, most of the citiz: iS carried away some
relic. All readers of New England history know the story,
how the Charter of the State was carried oflf by Captain
AVadsworth and hidden in this hollow oak-tree ; and how
the tree kept its secret, until the Cha/ter could be quietly
brought forth again. Captain Fletcher had come from
New York, and seeing the Connecticut volunteers drilling,
he ordered them to disband. "Di'um on," said bluff
Captain Wadsworth, taking no notice of the New York
Governor's orders. Afterwards, when the people met in
solemn conclave, they were required to deliver up their
Charter. Suddenly, the lights were put out, the Charter
w as taken and hidden in the oak-tree, and remained there
until safer times.

Hartford abounds in benevolent institutions. Deaf,
dumb, blind, insane, and orphans are all cared for here.
Speaking with an officer of Police, he tells me that Hart-
ford is the most orderly city for its size in the United
States. I can quite believe him from what I saw.

' " x aoBsm

"Possibly the proximity of Colt's Eevolver Works has
something to do with this," said I laughingly to my guide*
" Oh no" said he, ** the Colts are all sent away."

One would not dream of the immense extent of these
"Works, until you have been over them. With ready
courtesy I was granted permission to wander through
them. Two or three years ago the factory was burnt
down, but upon its ruins has risen an immense structure
of brick and iron, constructed so as to be entirely fireproof.
The long rooms, of 200 yards from end to end, have a very
imposing appearance. Windows, fronting to the
river, admit a flood of light into every corner. In the
centre are long rows of iron-pillars, their bright-blue
surface contrasting with shining metal-shafting, ever
moving steam-engines, and machinery, which in its
ingenuity seems almost automaton and possessed of life.
An intelligent foreman explained to me the working of the
Gatling gun, and the Berdan rifle, which are just now
the greatest novelties in fire-arms. On the roof of the
factory, rises a curious dome, resting upon a circle of
white pillars, and crowned by a cupola, the outside of
which is painted bright blue, and studded with legions
of goldon stars.

There is quite a romance connected with Colonel Colt's
history. 20 years ago, he was making pistols in a little
shed in the town, and his weapon was just rising into
notice and favour. He had observed a swampy tract of
land that extended for miles along the river, and which
was overflowed every spring, by the rising of the waters ;
consequently almost valueless for agriculture. He con-
ceived his plan, and became the purchaser of this swamp,
obtaining it for ** an old song," a mere nominal sum. He
then built a dike, or bank of earth a mile long, and broad
enough to drive a couple of carriages abreast, which

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effectually shut out intruding waters of spring freshets
from his possessions. The land so protected was soon
reclaimed, and has now become very valuable ; while the
other side of the dike still remains a marsh, covered with
sour grasses, rushes ",nd willow-bushes. V^ithin this
dike — worthy of the Hollanders — his firearm's-factory has
been erected.

Here too rose a beautiful mansion, quite equal externally
and interi ..lly to those of the Old World Nobility. But
the builder was not long spared to enjoy what his ener-
gies had gained. He died in the prime of life. A quiet
grave within the park, in the midst of a grove of trees,
marks the last resting-place of Colonel Colt. His wealth
and business are inherited by widow and only son. Mrs.
Colt is building a memorial-church in the grounds. I
could only turn away, devoutly hoping that the gospel of
peace which will be here preached, will so prevail, that the
time may come amain, when nations — learning war no
more — shall no longer require weapons such as are mad©
at Hartford.

Other memories of a different kind cluster round the
city. Here lived gifted and good Mrs. Sigourney. Here
too the authoress of Uncle Tom's Cabin is a sometime-
resident. Here also is tho home of the artist *' Church."
He is well known in Europe as the painter of Niagara,
which is a chef d'osuvre in its way. If his life is spared
we may predict that the same genius will produce many
such landscape-pictures. Already, though young in
years, he has visited South America, and on the spot,
painted the snowy Andes. He has been to Newfoundland,
to transfer to his canvas, tint and grandeur of "icebergs,*'
floating past from northern seas. His last scene of labour
is Syria. He there penetrated into regions which no
Frank had trodden before. His guides warned him that

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he was on dangerous ground, but paying no heed to them,
he pitched his tent, and began to paint. The hostilo
Arabs sent a message to his tent, that he must leave
their territory. He fearlessly remained. Finally, when
they again angrily demanded his departure, he gave their
Chief a bag of gold, when opposition vanished, and the
brave, devoted young painter wf,8 allowed to continue
his labours in peace. With this tale of heroism and
enterprise fresh in mind, it was doubly gratifying to me
to find one of his pictures, *' Damascus," much admired
in London during the summer of 1869. It was evident
that the Syrian campaign had not been without results,
I trust that America and England, have as yet, only seen
the first-fruits of a genius so remarkable.

From Mr, Reed, the superintendent of the " Hartford,
Newhaven and Springfield Railway," I gathered a cyclo-
paedia of facts about American '•ailroads. A railroad in
England is quite another thing, in solidity of construction,
and also in cost, to a railroad in America, Taking into
account the immense concessions of land made to the
Company, the mighty " Pacific Railroad" will not have
cost as much money as the London and North "Western
with its various ramifications. The one which Mr, Reed
manages cost 3,000,000 dollars, or about the £'>00,000
which the Britannia Tubular Bridge cost. This is one
of the better lines. There is a double rail-track on it
throughout, though single lines are the rule in America.
He told me that gradually all the wooden bridges are
being replaced by stone and iron ones, and ^Aj two now
remain to be altered. One of the finest bridges on the line,
which spans the river Connecticut, was made in Man-
chester, and taken out and set up by English engineers.
During the war, they imported coal from Wales and
Scotland for their locomotives, and now they use the

soft coal from Virginia. This line has been open 28
years ; the charge to passengers is Ijd. per mile,
and it pays about 12 per cent, to the shareholders. The
charge on the ** New York Central," is fixed by law at 2
cents or Id. per mile, and the line pays well. On other
railroads the rate varies from 2 to 5 cents. Some of the
Companies are^beginning to run saloon-cars, in which by
payment of an extra dollar, you may enjoy the luxury of
English first-class carriages. So much for universal
equality !*

Mr. R. had just returned from a visit to England. It
was very interesting to hear an opinion of my country,
from one so well able to judge. He says that England
is a "great country." He admires and likes her railroads
best, the rails and the permanent way are so much better
laid down than in America ; but he prefers his own style
of carriages. Speaking of coal, he thinks that the coal
and iron in England will last for ages yet ; and in his own
country too, for the Alleghany mountains are full of these
treasures. He was astonished to find London, c. city 18
miles long, with 21 miles of underground railway. In
his opinion York Minster is the finest building in the
world. Again and again he returned to the remembrance
of this mighty monument of the middle ages. It might
have suggested Wordsworth's thought —
They dreamed not of a perishable home who could thus build.
Mr. B. had run through Europe, with a celerity which
he must have learned in his own profession, as he told
me he travelled 7,800 miles in 63 days. He had flown on
the wings of express trains from industrial-town to
capital, and from capital to sea-port. Of course he gave
the palm of admiration to Paris, Paris the tineut and
grandert city in the world. "Our summer nights are

^ The Pacific Railway was successfully opened in summer of 1 869.

not like yours," said he, "for in Edinburgh I could see
to read the newspaper by daylight at 11 p.m. in June,
and here such a thing is not possible." " I am very fond
of England, and hope to come over again in a year or two
and visit your Scottish Highlands, and shall possibly
take a run over to 8t. Petersburg and Moscow before
going home," were among his parting words to me, when
we shook hands heartily on the morning of my leaving
Hartford.

While we were together the previous evening, the chief
of police had come in, to report the capture of a person
who had placed a bar of iron across the rails, in the hope
of bringing train and passengers to "grief." Fortunately,
the pilot, or cow-catcher, (which all American locomotives
carry in front,) had caught up, and knocked away the
obstructing bar, and saved a smash and probable loss of
life and limb. The pilot is strong enough to lift or sweep
anything less ponderous than a rock out of the track.
The poor madman, who had planned the obstruction was
found not far from hia fancied scene of triumph, and sent
off to a ''retreat."

"I shall stop this train just now, and put you out,"
said the conductor to an offending passenger, and without
more ado, he pulled the signal-rope which communicates
with the driver, speed was gradually slackened, and the
train came to a stand-still in the middle of a green plain.
«* Get up and follow me," and in a moment or two the
offender was standing in the plain, and the train flying
on its way again. This incident took place on a New
England line of railway. The Crusoe of the plain had
been sitting on the same seat in the cars with myself,
his crime was seeking to travel without paying his fare^
and then defending himself by falsehood ; when Nemesis
in the shape of an upright conductor, found him out, and

punished him. " Served him right," said his fellow-
passengers ; but I went further, and drew a moral from
the circumstance, which is — Every carriage on Enplish
railways ought to have an internal means of com-
municating with guard and driver. I need say no more.

It was pleasent to tread the streets of "Elm City," as
Newhaven is called ; after long travel by land, to see
again the waves of ocean, come rolling up the Sound, to
which the city faces. For America, this city may be
called old and venerable. I had certain of its historical
associations in my mind, but I need not say that its
greatest attraction was Yale College. I had passed up the
long elm-shaded main street, with its shops and commerce,
and been shown the old English Episcopal Church
embosomed in foliage of crimson climbing-plants, when
coming to green lawns and quadrangle, I knew that the
goal was attained. The scholastic home of 700 students,
the largest college in the United States was before me.

Let all who want to see a r'are collection of American
minerals, go and search the cabinet of specimens at Yale.
But to me, the Library was equally or more interesting.
** We can never hope to have a "Bodleian" here, there
are not in the wide world, materials to form another such
an one," said the kind and erudite secretary to me, as we
were standing in the noble library-hall at Yale, "and yet"
(and looking upon the wealth of books ranged round,)
"this is not bad for a young country like America.''
"My dear Sir," said I "your country shares in the
glory of our * Bodleian,' as I to-day share in the glory of
yours." In the reading-room I found many French
magazines, and ^till more German ones, and from this
fact I learned that the German language was more studied

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in America than I had thought. Among the curious
literary treasures are an " illuminated copy of the Koran,"
and a volume of Bishop Latimer's sermons in old English.
A copy of Elliot's Indian Bible, very much worn, is
another. The sounds of the Indian language are
represented by words spelt with English letters. It was
printed at Cambridge, U.S.A. in 1680. Observing
that I took great delight in seing these curiosities, the
kind gentleman previously named still further unmasked
his store of records for my pleasure. He showed me a
pen and ink sketch of Major Andre done by himself in
his cell, the evening before his death. It is said to have
been a good likeness.

I then saw two books of pencil sketches of "Indians"
done by George Catlin's own hand in London, copies, or
rather miniature reproductions of his famous pictures.
Catlin spent 13 years of his life among the various Indian
tribes of America, from 1830 to 1842, visiting in succession
03 tribes, then comprising 2,000,000 people; and with
his own hand painted separately the likenesses of 200 of
their most distinguished personages, male and female.
Daniel Webster proposed in Congress in 1849, that the
American nation should buy these pictures, (pictures of
a race of men fast passing from among them,) but his
proposal was rejected by one vote, and that the vote of
Jefferson Davis 1 They were shown in London in 1850,
and were mortgaged by the artist to an American
gentleman in Philadelphia, who holds them. Catlin is
now an old man and lives in Brussels ; I saw a letter
which my informant had received from him a few weeks
previously. There was a curious picture of a child of the
Flathead tribe. The flat-head is real, more than a name ;
for in infancy the head of the child is flattened. Catlin's
picture shows the child in its cradle, and the flattening

process going on. Another strange profile was that of
the Kickapoo prophet. Ho was half civilised, and
composed a praye^' in character. This was written on
maple-batons ; these he sold to his tribe, making them
buy and use them. From their sale the prophet gained
a competence.

The nucleus of a Yale Art Gallery has been formed in
a noble building, which was given by Augustus M. Street
at a cost of £40,000. Doors and staircases of polished
l;road-grained chestnut ; gallery itself, and lighting are
perfect ; and now as to the pictures on the walls. As
yet, no pictures of Bierstadt or Church have been placed
here ; the collection is only in embryo. There is one
picture which might claim to rank with the ma? erpieces
of Bierstadt. The painter is Alexander Wust — i ' g scene
the "White mountains. From snow-crested ''ount
Washington, a green valley of 20 miles is condensed by
the artist in this beautiful landscape. There is a quiet
scene on Lake George by Timothy Cole, and two or three
scenes from Scottish history, that is all — the glory of
America does not yet rest upon its pictures. In Europe,
the grand paintings of Bierstadt had astonished us by
their immensity of subject and brilliancy of coloring.
When I came homo again to England, I could better
appreciate his picture of the " Sierra Nevada Mountains"
which hung on the walls of the Royal Academy, the
following year. After looking upon the giant physical
features of America, drinking in the idea of immensity of
nature in all its boundlessness, and feasting your eyes
upon the gloriets of an Indian Summer, you will feel and
know whence American artists have gotten their inspira-
tion. With a parting glance at Lombardi's beautiful
statue of "Ruth gleaning," which has been the princely
^ift of an American gentleman to Yale, I bid good bye to
New haven and its college.

NOETHERN NEW ENGLAND.

As
laced
I one
)ieces
scene
^ount
led by
quiet
three
ry of
rope,
us by
oring.
better
tains"
ly, the
ysical
sity of
r eyes
el and
spira-
autiful
rincely
bye to

Laud of the mountain and the flood.

HAT Helvellyn is to the English Lake-hind, Mount
Washington is to New Hampshire. King-like it
stands amidst the White Mountains, its summit often
covered with snow. Year b}" year, thousands of visitors
crowd into the Mountain State. All who can afford timo
and means, leave their homes in the hot Southern States,
and come north during summer and autumn. The needlo
does not tremble more surely to the pole, than do crowds
cf Southern people come up northward, when dog-days
reign in Alabama and the Carolinas.

The Americans are great travellers ; by rail and river.
Niagara is full of them, Saratoga is full of them ; St. John,
Halifax, Quebec, and Montreal count them as their most
numerous visitors ; and they follow each other in beaten
tracks all over Europe. Here in New Hampshire, they
swarm about Mount Washington. You meet them
standing under the Profile Rock, or in common phrase,
" Old man of the Mountains ;" you see them threading the
pass of the Notch, and by the side of the sparkling Flume,
and their shouts reverberate among the hills round ''Echo
Lake." The giant b otels are full of them, for they are all

visitors of pleasure. Such a thingas a pedestrian tour does
not come naturally to an American. He leaves that to bis
"Rnglish cousins, whose country can provide for them a
village every two or three miles — excellent roads, and
now and then a ruined abbev op a manor-house for the
curious. •* Tell your friends that American ladies won't
walk a block, if they can ride," said a Washington lady
to mo, and her remark is no more than true. Yet I have
found American gentlemen who have made pedestrian
tours in England, and remembered them with pleasure.
From r New York banker, I heard a curious story,
which he assured me was quite true. A man was seized
with a mania for strawberries, thinking them as necessary
to his well-being as ambrosia to the Gods. So he feasted
upon the rich ripe fruit when it made its noviciate
oftpearance in April in New Orleans, and followed th»3
rose and cream-speckled berry from zone to zone, until
he was served with the last dish of the season on the
banks of the Gatineau river.

In New Hampshire grow the rock-maples, and in the
early spring, while yet the snow is on the ground, it is
one of the sights to watch the process of maple sugar-
making in the woods.

VEI^TS 3v/LOisra?S-

I have pleasant memories of democratic little Vermont,
especially of the pretty town of Burlington, sunning its
face on Lake Champlain. Bising up out of the Lake in
front, are some bold and naked rocks, at which a British
■war-vessel fired during one long night in the war of 1814,
(mistaking them for vessels,) without ever bringing them
to surrender. Old Whiteface is the vis d vis of Vermont
on the opposite shore. From its summit, Canada, and
the wild regions of Upper New York State are vigible.

, the

it is

ig its
ike in
Iritisb
1814,
them
[•monb
and
teible.

The democvctcy of this little Switzerland — Vermont — not
only enjoy equal political rights among male citizens,
but the time seems fast coming among them when females
will have an equal franchise with the males. According
to appearances, men will Foon have to become Calibans ;
Soon they will search in vain by hearth and home, by
fireside and cradle, for their fair ministering angels.
American poets, pointing to Professors' Chairs, to Colleges
and Parliaments, will sing, " Hero woman reigns," not
by influence but in person. It is facetiously said in
reference to the sexes, that the man holds the reins, but
the lady shows him where to drive.

It is no business of ours to scan the future too closely.
It may baffle our most certain auguries ; but one thing
is certain. In America the question of the sexes, the
question which shall rule, is being pressed to an issue,
in a manner little dreamed of in the Old World. On the
shores of Salt Lake, w^omen are as the two sparrows of
the parable — but in New England, in San Francisco, in
the great West, they are as the golden doves, as the
pearl of great price. Year by year the peaceful conflict
is surging onward, and with every summer the American
woman, counts as nearer by a cycle, the Paradise of her
sex.

Mr. Dixon, in his "New America," has drawn full-
length portraits of the ladies of the land, with all their
peculiar theories and habits ; and so faithfully has he
done the work, that I can give approval and concunence
to all that he says. It is one of those social problems,
which if destined to receive solution in the way desired
by the fair sex, will soon be settled to their mind. If not
BO to be in the order of Providence, there will arise a
revolution in society, which will sweep away anomalies
and restore simplicity of action again, " In God's

universe there is no accident," wcte Charles Sumner to
a young friend of mine ; and so among all these vexed
questions of New America,, there is no accident^* but a
governing law of Provif ace.

Among the students wno gathered to listen to Wendell
Phillips's anti-slavery lectures at Harvard University,
were many of Southern birth and opinions. They differed
from him in belief, but were spell-bound by his eloquence.
They were almost 6onvinced against their will. We
imagine the same current of feeling running beneath the
crusade for Woman's Rights. A woman may be fascinated
by the ideas of supremacy, advanced by plausible orators
of her sex ; but, depend upon it, good sense will step in,
and urge as the greatest happiness of life, the performance
of true womanly duties ; for after all.

Woman is not undeveloped man, but diverse.

From Ticonderoga to Whitehall, Lake Champlain
narrows, and for many miles is more like a winding river
than a lake, like

Winandermere, the river-lake.

The green rolling hills of Vermont are seen here in all
their glory, and make us often think of the Yo 'kshire
more than the Scottish hill j. To-day they have poured
down their streams in such earnest, that lake and river
are swollen to overflowing ; and the railway-embankment
has been washed away. So I am laid-up high and dry in
a little mountain-town. Many of its houses are built on
ledges scarped in the rocks on the hill side ; there each

stands —

As an eagle's nest, hangs on the crest
Of purple Appenine.
Castleton is the centre of the Vermont raarble-district.
Here the beautiful white rock is "plentiful as black-
berries ; so handy is it for use, that fence-posts and

mechanics' shops are made of it. But if marble is
pleiitiful, beer and spirits are not. Vermont is one of
the Maine-law States, a " Cider State" as it is here called.
The contraband article may be obtained on the sly, as I
witnessed, for while I was dining at the village-inn, my
companion William Pollock discovered a fountain of good
beer not many yards away ; but this is an exception, and
the Vermont folks deserve all honour for making temper-
perance and abstinence the law of their land. So good-
bye to Vermont. %

Very different is the Maine of the New World, from its
namesake, the French province, for which English and
French kings so often contended. Much of the land is
still covered with forest, and its rivers abound in
salmon. One of my forest-experiences was on the
northern frontier of this State, when I accompanied
Donald M*-^Michael in a canoe, with a couple of Indiana
as boatmen, to the head- waters of the St. John. Donald
was out on an errand of prospecting, not for gold, but
for timber. For this timber, when felled, a royalty would
be paid to the United States' authorities, and then the logs
would be sent to Liverpool, to the firm whose agent my
companion was. Far in the interior, wild rivers and
mountain-lakes abound. A thousand stories of daring
and endurance might be related of the early settlers, who
first waged war against the cedars and hemlocks of the
forest; and legends innumerable, of Indian strife, could

t Maine-law has had a two years' trial in Massachusetts, Lut did
not succeed. Citizens, so-minded, found means to evade its
restrictions ; and on one occasion the whole of the hotel-keepers
in Boston were arrested in one day for breach of the law. A
strict liceusing-regulation has now taken the place of Maine-law
in Pilgrim State, and is preferred by the people.

be told by the dwellers in lonely clearin^aon the Xcnne-
bec and Penobscot. A terrible strugf^le they had to bold
their ground against the Lorettes and !Moha^Yks, and in
the early historyof the State it is said that every twentieth
settler was killed by the red men.

But now industrial life is the order of the dti.y in Maine.
Not very long ago, one-third of all tho wooden ships in
America were built on its rivers, and in its ports.
Everywhere, water-power abounds, and has been pressed
into the service of man, becoming the very life of his
spinning-fiic'tories and saw-mills. Large blocks of marblo
are quarried on the Penobscot, and shipped off even as far as
Washington. Augusta Bangor, Houlton and Lewiston,
as inland towns, attest .hepower of successful enterprise.
In Portland the traces of fire are still very observable.
One bright Sunday morning in July, 3 years ago, when
the congregations Avere mustering for service, a fire broke
out, and the confli gration could not be subdued. By
Bun-dowu a quarter of the city was destroyed, and 10,000
people were roofless, and camping out in the streets.
Fortunately this happened in summer-time, or their
BufferingF. must have been terribly augmented. " Go
ahead," is the watch-cry of Americans, and already anew
brick-built town has risen on the ashes of the former
wooden houses. The streets are j et *'sloughs of despond"
but already the Post OflBce is lodged in a palace of Ver-
mont marble. Banks and hotels have sprung up, built
of freestone (imported from Halifax) although even this
stone is taxed by the revenue, and the buildings mortgaged
as it were, before the walls are laid.

I looked in upon the Savings' Bank, and found a large
business going on in the bureau, in spite of fire and high
taxes ; so elastic are the resources of a rising American
town. I found that suras so low as half a dollar were

rnip-
boUl
nd in
itieth

[aine.
ips in
porta,
ressed
of his
narblo
! far as
listen,
rprise.
[•vable.
, when
e broke
d. By
10,000
reels,
their
««Go
anew
ormer
ispond"
»f Ver-
built
en this
.'tgaged

a largo
id high
nerican
\Y were

received on deposit, and any sum up to 1,000 dollars may
be withdrawn without notice.

As we sailed out of Portland harbour in the good
steamer ** New England," we passed many islands and
some fortifications. The haven is a very tine one ; it is
the port for the Allan line of British steamers during the
winter-months, when navigation on the St. Lawrence is
closed by ice. The Grand Trunk Railway have a line
through to Portland, and goods arc allowed by the United
States' government to pass through to Canada *' in bond."
The coast is wild and rugged, and generally shares the
Bay of Fundy's fogs. But during this voyage the sky is
clear and blue, not the shadow ot a mist to hide the view.
The sea is quite calm. Sailing close in to the land, the
coast is never out of sight from the steamer's deck. Mount
Desart Island is the largest of the many islands oflf the
coast, and wilder and grander scenery than is here found,
is difficult to imagine. The coast lino of Maine is 278
miles " as the crow flies," but it is so indented with bays
and inlets that it is increased to nearly ten times as many
miles in distance.

The harbour of Eastporfc is large and good, — nothing
gave me so complete an idea of the wealth of timber in
Maine, as to find the pier here in Eastport built up of
Eolid trunks of trees, 30 feet from the water at low tide,
Lage trees piled one across the other. It was high-noon
as we steamed into Eastport bay and cast anchor in front
of the little town. This is the last town on United States'
soil, over the bay is New Brunswick, and there the
Stars and Stripes give place to the red cross of England.
"Over there," said an American fellow passenger to me,
** you will be among your own people."

THE ADIECx.' DACS.

All frienuo round the Wrekin.

CHERE is no finer scenery in America than in the
wild regions of the Adirondacs. Here the Saranac
lakes twist and twine into each other like an intricate
sampler of lace work, embroidering the forest-covered
plain with a chasing of silver waters. Here the Raquette
gathers up the tiny springs, whi?h it afterwards pours
down in floods to the St. Lawrence, and here too is the
birth-place of the lordly Hudson. This forest-land, these
wild glens and lakes were once the hunting-grounds of
Mohawks and Iroquois, of whom now scarcely a trace
remains, and hardly a dim tradition is preserved. He
who would see these wilds, must gird up his loins for
wilderness travel, and even in thef s days he will have to
resign all luxuries for awhile.

It was at Plattsburg that I first looked upon the noble
lake to which the old French governor M. de Obamplain
gave his name. In 1814, at this point, a battle was fought
between Americans and English, in which the latter were
defeated. This very year, in opening up ground for a
new line of rail, there was brought to light that, which
is the saddest memoir of warfare, the graves of brave
slain soldiers. The United Stau;? soldiers from the fort,
camo down, and to the straiic cf solemn music, with

military honours, the bodies were re-interred, friend and
foe in a common grave together. Embarking on the lake,
we find a strong wind blowing, which causes the pale
green waters to frisk and rage in snowy crests of foam.
Then the wind dies away, — the sun shines out brightly, —
and it is so hot that we are glad to take shelter under the
deck-awnings.

Champlain is beautiful beyond any description that
words of mine can give. Along the Vermont side, stretch
the knolls and slopes of the Green Mountains. Along
the New York side, rise up the Adirondac range, irregular
as a Spanish Sierra. Split-rock is the greatest natural
curiosity on the lake. It received its name from French
explorers who came south from Canada. At Crown Point
are the ruins of immense fortifications which the British
government commenced but never completed. All down
the lake, there comes to mind, the history of strif.^, and
battle in these waters, and now all is so calm and peace-
ful that those sad times can scarcely be realised. I landed
at Ticonderoga. It means noisy in Indian parlance, and
was so called from the " falls" which are near. On a
swelling upland stood the fortress which bore this name.
The garrison- well, traces of earthworks, and ruined walls
row mark the site of this once famous citadel.

A table-land of four or five miles separates Lake
Champlain from its sister Lake George. A little distance
from the fortress-ruins stands a green tree, marking the
spot where Abercrombie lost 2,000 brave British soldiers,
and about mid- way between the two lakes we come to the
village and falls of Ticonderoga. Soon lovely Lake
George bursts upon onr sight, and descending to the
shore, we embark upon the little stcsamer ''Minne-ha-ha."
No wonder that Americans have warm praises for this
lake ; it seems to me the most fairy-like and beautiful in

the world. It is the Trossachs, and the Ellen's Isle of
our Scottish Katrine, repeated over and over again*
Hundreds of islands stud its surface. Green hills encircle
it round, and behind them are p irple mountains, folding
all in their stern unbroken embrace. Before us is Sabbath
Day Point, with the memories of peace and calm which
even an arnied host found upon it, when they landed here
that bright Sunday morning more than 100 years ago.
Here too is Soger's Slide, with its history of daring.
Passing through the "Narrows," the palisades of Shelving
Eock, the bold peaks of Black Mountain, ^nd the prom-
ontory of the Tongue are before us.

The lake and its shores were once the battle-ground of
contending nations, — British, French, Americans, and
Indians have all fought here. How thankful we ought to
be that the maritle of peace is now cast upon these scenes,
and over the once hostile nations 1 We all earntstly hope
that never again may anger and strife entf^r this lovely
region, and not here only, but wherever on the broad
Continent, or in the wide world, the two great Anglo-
Saxon nations meet. Providence may grant, that for ever,
Love betwein them as the palm shall flourish,
And peace shall still her wheaten garland bear.
A more enchanting spot than Lake George one thii s
can scarcely be imagined. We may find its compeer in
our ow i land of lakes and purple-hued mountains, but it
will lack the extent of the American lake. On board the
steamer is a gay and merry company, and as we mingle
with them, we think that after all the name " Minne-ha-
ha," or " laughing- water," is a very appropriate one for
such a vessel. As she comes near to the landing-stage,
at the bottom of the lake, she is greeted by a salute of
two guns from the Fort William Henry Hotel, This
mark of distinction, I suppose, originates from the fact

of the hotel standing upon the site of an old fort. (The
same custom is kept up at the Fort Anne Hotel, at
Douglas, in the Isle of Man.) The hotel-band is on the
lawn, welcoming new arrivals with the rather mournful
strains of " Shells of Ocean."

By moonlight the scene is like a fairy world, It is
shut in by hills, clothed in leafage of forest-trees, of
lightest, brightest green, and the spot seems almost as
secluded and far from the world as in days of old. At
night the hills lose their green tints, and then loom out,
like grim, sombre monuments, overlooking the waters of
sheeny silver, and the pleasure-boats floating upon them.
All round is the scene of Cooper's romance, '* Last of the
Mohicans." Well do I remember reading this story when
a boy at school, laid at full length beneath an old hollow
tree in the park ; little thinking then, that fifteen or
sixteen years after, it would be my lot to visit these
regions. Late in the evening as I paced the terrace of
Lake House, I could hear the merry strains of violins
playing the * 'lancers," and through the closed Venetians
I was able to catch a sight of the flitting, shadowy forms
of the dancers. Our American cousins are very fond of
all kinds of enjoyment and pleasure, and dancing is more
general with them than with us.

The next morning, rising betimes, I hastened out to
drink in the pure breezes of this Highland region, before
the sun had risen.

The l;reezy call of incense breathing morn,
had roused many besides myself, for the Americans are,
as a rule, early risers. At our early breakfast, a fellow-
guest who had visited Italy, tells me that 1. 3 thinks Lake
George more beautiful than Lake Como. On paying a
visit to the Fort William Henry Hotel, crowds of Ameri-
can ladies and gentlemen were sauntering about the halls

(The
)1, at
n the
Lrnful

It is

les, of
ost as
I. At
naout,
ters of
them.
, of the
y when
hollow
een or
it these
^race of
violins
netians
y forms
fond of
is more

d out to
before

ans are,
, fellow-
ks Lake
►aying a
Ameri-
he halls

and grounds. By the side of the pale, slim, sparkling
sisterhood of fashion, our English ladies look stronger
and rosier. I then visited the ruins of Fort William
Henry. A tree marks the site of the powder magazine,
and the old camp-well is enclosed by palisades. These,
with mounds of sand and stone, are all that remain to tell
the tale of the massacre which was perpetrated here, in
which from 1,500 to 2,000 brave English and Colonial
soldiers perished.

Of Fort George, a mile further on, more extensive ruins
remain. The mounds of earth are faced with r one and
mortar, and rise 30 f n height. From the old rampart
walls, you have a goou ^ew of the lake, looking due north.
The bonnie Scotch thistle flourishes here in all its pride,
and a swamp of reeds and water-lilies extends on the
margin of the lake in front. All around are hills and
woods ; you look down upon seas of forest-trees, cedars,
and limes. — (the pine in this region has long been
exhausted.) Solitary indeed must have been the life
of the soldiers here 100 or 150 years ago, when not
at war with the Indians. It speaks much for the hardi-
hood and energy of both Saxon and Gallic races, that so
far a 9v^ay from home, they should have left such memorials
behind, though for the sake of humanity we could have
wished them to have been peaceful ones.

The hotel and village of Caldwell remind me of Inver-
snaid on Loch Lomond. At the back, wooded hills rise
very abruptly, shooting suddenly into the pikes of Mount
Pleasant and Rattlesnake Hill. Among the rocky boulders
on the latter, rattlesnakes are still found sadly too often
for the security and safety of adventurous climbers.
Beautiful as is the region now, it must be terribly lonely
in winter. Amongst the Adirondacs will be found many
a hamlet of freemen — homes characterised by Moravian

simplicity, and Swedish contentment — real *' Happy
Valleys/' A few miles up the lake, is Bolton, a quiet,
lovely place, a very paradise for fishermen. At the
Mohican Hotel there, among the guests just now,
are the Grecian Consul, several of the attaches of the
British Embassy, and a daughter of Thackeray. As the
palace of the Escurial counts its rooms as the days of the
year in multitude, so Lake George may claim the same
comparison for the number of its islands. Many of them
are fertile, others merely barren rocks. The Indians called
the lake " Horicon" or the "silvery waters" ; and by the
French it was named Lac Sacrament, on account of the
purity of its waters. There is no tide, but the swaying
of the water and the action of the wind are always causing
a little surf, or breaking of waves on the fine sandy beach.
The lake is high above the level of the river Hudson, and
very deep. The waters are free from lime, and you can
see a long way down to the sandy bed below. Crest and
motto might be drawn from Lake George and its
surroundings —

The Crest-8AND AND LICHENS ON AN ISLAND STUDDED LAKE.

TheMotto-QOD'S WORK ENDURES, MAN'S WORK FALLS AWAY LIKE SAND,
AND MOSS AND LICHENS HIDE THE RUIN.

The " Silvery waters" seem to say to all.

Ken T&Sij come and men may go,
But (we) flow on for ever.

In the valley of bitter waters at Salt Lake, Mormon
pilgrims have caused the earth to yield her increase, and
have won from mountain- slope and desert kindly fruits
«nd flowers. To the new devotee coming from old-world
haunts of poverty, and looking down from the Sierra, for
the first time upon the holy city, the shrine of his faith,
it seems as it were the "New Jerusalem." How much

SAND,

Irmon
if and
Fruits
rorld
[a, for
Ifaithy
Imuch

more then will lovely Lake George answer the expectation
of imagined ideal ? To the most fastidious connoisseur of
natural beauty, the scene is radiant and glorious. It
seems to appeal to him as a fragment of that <'new
created world," which in the beginning, sprung up at the
command of the Most High. What must the prospect be
then, to the poor pariah from crowded cities, to him who
comes from Liverpool cellar, "Whitechapel alley, or
Edinburgh wynd; from the hovels of Foula, the Faubourg
St. Antoine, or the dens of Canal-street in Empire
city I To him the gleam of silvery waters, and sheen of
purple peaks, must seem a blending of " new heaven and
new earth," the realization of a vision, like that which
came to the denizen of lonely Patmos.

We must now leave Lake George. The notes of a horn
are heard sounding reveille through the main- street of
Caldwell, its cheery echoes rolling from peak to peak
under Eattlesnake Mountain. A gallant "turn out" with
*' four in hand" after the fashion of orthodox Perthshire
coaches, stands at the door. We mount, and obtain our
heart's desire, the box seat. My immediate companion
is a young gentleman from Ohio ; and with a company
of lively New Englanders, I renew a previous dinner
acquaintance. Merrily trot our horses along the "plank
road," which runs from the glen to Moreau station
fourteen miles away. The roads and fields are all sand,
which fact seems to prove what I had previously read, —
** that New England and New Bnmswick were once separate
from the mainland, and that the sea then rushed and rolled
through these gorges, from the St. Lawrence to New York Bay.
Shells and other sea-tokecs have been found on the mountains
round, and seals are sometim«s caught under the ice of Lake
Champlain, and occasionally by the rapids of the Richlieu river."
Still, sandy as is the soil, the rock-oak grows sturdily,

I m

rich in dark green leaves, and ripe with countless acorns.
The golden-brown sumach is scattered by the way-side
in plenty ; and best of all, buckwheat and maize will
repay, not ungratefully, the farmer's care. As we ascend
the hills, I cast "many a longing, lingering look behind"
on the lovely island-studded lake ; at length the vision
fades, and other scenes present themselves.

We ride close by " Bloody Pond," a shallow, circular
sheet of water, now overgrown with rushes and dank
lilies. In olden time a battle was fought here by British
against French and Indians. The bodies of all the slain,
friend and foe alike, wore flung into the pond to find
sepulchre there, hence its name. A mile further on,
stands an isolated rock, the scene of a gallant fight
between Colonel Williams and a number of Indians, in
early settlement days. This oflBcer upheld the reputation
of his countrymen for bravery, meeting the moment of
peril in the spirit of James Fitz James —

Come one, come all, this rock shall fly
From its firm base, as soon as I.
It is called Williams's rock to this day. A white stone
monument has been raised above the rocky boulder, and
a suitable inscription upon it bids fair to record the deed
for all time.

We have now reached the summit of the water-shed,
and by a rocky road begin the descent. The Hudson
river in its infancy lies far in the valley below. At Glen
Falls the river rushes over strangely shaped rocks of blue
slate-stone, and by many channels it has worn for itself
a way through the flinty strata. As a sight it is not
much, but the noise is considerable. Below are some
caves, in and around which are laid the scenes of earlier
adventure, of Uncas and Hawkey e and their "fair
charges" Alice and Cora Munroe, in the ** Last of the

Mohicans." Times have changed since the period of this
tale, for now the energy and life of the falling waters are
pressed into the service of man, to turn his water-mills
for corn and lumber. The bridge of wood by which we
cross the falls, looks so frail and insecure, and through
large gaps in the roadway we can see so plainly the
dashing torrent below, that we breathe more freely when
the coach is fairly over.

We are now emerging from grand scenery into a region
of matter-of-fact, industrial life. Here is a steam-machine
stubbing up roots of trees, which look ugly customers
when turned up chevaux defrise fashion, to form a stump
fence. In a factory hard by, Yankee ingenuity, aided
with funds from an Albany Company, is converting peat
into good house-fuel, while close at hand the consuming
organs of locomotives are being catered for by the pre-
paration of piles of logs of hardwood. Here is growing
buckwheat, with its three-cornered grain, something like
a miniature Brazil nut in shape. The meal made from
it soon turns sour, and must be ground immediately
before being used, to secure it sweet and good. A dish
of smoking buckwheat pancakes served up with molasses,
was a great luxury to breakfast in the New Brunswick
forest. By the side of buckwheat flourishes a similar
cereal, — Indian wheat it is called, it ripens early in the
season, and is used for fattening hogs. But the glory of
the corn-land is the golden Maize. As we pass by the
fields, the reapers are at work, cutting it down plant by
plant, and storing it up in ** shocks" like our English
wheat. Delicate and beautiful is the large ear of maize,
of pale amber color, which peeps out from beneath its
leafy sheath. It turns out to be the Canadian maize,
which is a rathe'* smaller variety than the American, and
ripens sooner .e ground beneath is now exposed, all
covered with growing pumpkins amongst the stubble.

By this time I was on excellent terms with my fellow-
travellers on the coach. With Americans there is little
ct that needless formality which you so often find in
England. If they meet a fellow traveller, they are quite
ready to break a lance wita him in conversation, and if
they find the ring of true metal of honest human nature
about him, hospitality and friendship soon follow. I have
received more acts of true kindness on occasions when it
has been necessary to "take me on faith" in America, than
in England, or anywhere else. Not that I blame my own
countrymen for the want of it ; there are warm hearts
enough in Britain, only that warmth is often chilled by a
certain icyness, if you cannot at the moment present any
credentials beyond an honest face and an intelligent
conversation.

My n found friends were joking me about staying in
America, and said that I was half a Yankee already.
" But my chances of long life are not so good here as in
our foggy island," said I ; upon which I was assured that
although in American towns and cities men live fast and
are old men at fifty, still, in the country, they generally
live to a good old age. Speaking of the habit of reading
or studying by gas and candle light, one of them, a
Professor, said that the practice is more injurious to
sight, in the morning, hefore daylight, than in the evening
after dark. I had not heard this opinion propounded
before, and must therefore only advance it as half-proven.
Alluding to the early hours which obtain in New England
farm-houses, where half-past five to six is the usual
breakfast hour, one of them repeated the line,
He that by the plough would thrive, —
I gave the maxim at length.

He that would thrive, must rise at five,
He that has thriven may lie till seven.

inded
loren.
Igland
1 usual

They all laughed heartily, and immediately said, " Oh,
we are all English you know, and English in many of our
ways and notions." They regarded my country as the
old mansion-house of their race, and judged its present
tenants by Emerson's standard. He said,

I was given to understand in my childhood, that the British
Islands from which my forefathers came, was no lotus-garden.
• * * In prosperity its people were moody, but in adversity
they were grand. The ancients did not praise the ship leaving
port with flying colors, but the one which came back with torn
sheets and battered sides, having ridden out the storm ! England
has done this for a thousand years, and I say, All hail I Mother of
nations ! V

t( Why do not your young noblemen come and travel
in America ? said they." Why do not your future states-
men know something of this land by actual observation ?
The answer shall be that of our ** Thunderer," —

The characteristics of the class in general, in the present age is
play rather than work. To judge very many of them by what
they do, one would think they were the idle apprentices of
Providence. All play and no work costs an aristocracy the
respect of the people of which it is the natural leader.

Again they said to me, '' Stay in our country, and
become a United States' citizen." My last words to them
on parting were, **1 shall carry with me pleasant
memories of you all, and America will always be allied
to home in kindly associations, still I shall return to
England, fonder than ever of my country."

>■

I
(

n
ti
h

HUDSON EIVEE & WEST TOINT.

HEN we came on board the steamer at Albany,
the river was a flood of brown waters, which had
risen 3 or 4 feet higher than had been known for 40 years.
Yet though there was flood below, the sun was
bright and glowing above ; in the clear atmosphere we
could see a long distance with the naked eye. I had
seen the birthplace of the river far away in its mountain
cradle, here at Albany it has swollen to a lake-like
expanse. You are prepared gradually for the glorious
scenery of the American Rhine, For miles its banks are
low and flat ; now terraced with vineyards; now gleaming
with fields of red-tinted buckwheat. Close under our
lee is a little town called after a city of sunny Greece, —
Athci.s the good, non-classical townsmen call it. Soon
the wharfs of Hudson city are abreast of us, and away in
the distance loom the Catskills, with a glimpse of the
White Mountain house gleaming on a shoulder of the
hill. Many and enchanting are the glens and flumes
which reward those who penetrate these rocky spurs, and
strange to say the ice and snow creations of winter, are
perhaps more remarkable than summer scenes amid the
Catskills.

The outer barriers of pike and slope run inland for
many a mile, yet, sheltered behind them spreads a goodly
table-land of farm and prairie. Now the banks are over-
hung with rugged flinty masses of rock, into which the
quarry man will never strike his drill. You would think

that no blade of grass could find root there, yet fine
young forest trees spring up and flourish. The cedar
assumes a conical shape, tapering gracefully to a needle-
like point, as if it had been clipped into form by the hand
of man. Simple as they seem, these cedar clumps
remain impressed on the travellers' mind, as one feature
of the Hudson's beauty, one reason of its fame. After
passing a lairy scene of rock and woodland, we come
suddenly upon "West Point. Another time we will return
to spend a day among the cadets in their own quarters.

Our steamer goes merrily down the river, her whole
frame, from end to end, vibrates with the strain upon
her, A railway runs along the river bank, under rocky
heights, and now our boat is put on her mettle, and races
with the engine onshore. I will back our **Drew"
against the landsman's '< Vanderbilt." Our water-palace
is teeming with guests. You need but look round on
every side for studies of American character in manhood,
womanhood, and childhood. "This reminds me of my
old home on the Derwent," said a voice at my elbow,
and turning round I recognised an Amencan acquaint-
ance from Germantown. He had lived 25 years in
America, and never expected to see again his old world
home, but the sight of wooded slope and mansion had
stirred old memories, and moved him to open his heart
to a Britisher. *' Guess this yer whips your British
rivers " was the observation of a Yankee of stalwart
build. He was pointing out the spots of interest on the
banks, when he was carried off by a call "to liquor" at
the bar. He and his companion dived deep into
politics with an irascible Southerner, and whoever lost
the argument, stood the drink-bill. So vehement did our
disputants grow, that there seemed proSj^)ect of a qv^urrel,
but their ire was again and again cooled at the bar. The

had

eart
bish

»vart
the
at
into
lost
lour
.rrel,
The

Soutberner went, ""^ know not whither, but his two com-
panions I saw again, in policeman's habit in Broadway.

Looking up, we sight the batteries at West Point, and
over an inlet stands a splintered rock much persecuted
by the round shot of cadet artillerymen. Some of these
in after life have come in for siege in its grim reality.
Knocking out FortSumpter's eyes and drawing the teeth
of Castle Pinckney, one thinks they often turned in
memory to their early practice. The snow-fortress at
Brienne was not a more eflfective training-school in war
to Napoleon, than West Point's sand batteries to Grant
and Lee.

Now the silent Moodna joins swift-flowing Hudson,
and the Appalachian mountain-chain which run north
into Canada, are seen here in all their glory. A water-
fall leaps down from its secret springs 500 feet above,
and under the Storm-king nestles a little colony of cabins,
whose inhabitants must needs look to the river for
highway ; other pass or outlet there seems none.
Mingling with a group on deck, I watch intently,
for a first glimpse of Sunny side ; close at hand is Idle-
wilde glowing with festooned balcony and porch, fit
home for a genius, like that of the late Mr. Willis. Set
back from the river is Newburgh the scene of Washing-
ton's romance. This old manor-house ofthe Phillips'
family might pass for an Elizabethan grange, with its
shingle roof, yet its walls of rubble stone are such as a
Norman might have built. A couple of mounted ship-
guns, and an old relic or two mark this spot as one of
the many halting places of Washington.

Then come the Palisades. Like mighty ramparts rise
the river-rocks, now baying back in bastions of splintered
reft ; now lone and isolated as a feudal castle by the
ocean; now dressing themselves in shapes of fancy,

which rock spirits or mountain gnomes might have
fashioned. Eowan and cedar cast anchor there, "moored in
the rifted rock, " fringing the grey peaks with green.
But the characteristic of the Palisades is their wall-like
sharpness ; as if Titan hands had hewn for the Hud-
son a passage through this barrier of trap-rock strata.
Perched aloft on a cliff reclines a tourist looking down on
us with perfect *' sang-froid ;" while below id moored a
pleasure boat, and its fair company, in white dresses,
and with unbonneted heads, are sunning themselves on the
bank, the overhanging cliff being to them as " the
shadow of a great rock in a weary land." Sing Sing,
the prison is behind, before, lie the wharfs of busy
Empire City, and our day on the Hudson comes to a
pleasant ending.

WEST POINT.

Leaving New York and its bustle behind I came one
fine morning into the Highlands of the Hudson. The
steamer lands two solitary pilgrims at the jetty, under
West Point, and proceeds on her upward journey again.
The two strangers become first companions, and then
friends for the day, a day spent among military memories
at West Point, and among literary memories at Sunnyside.

When the boat pushes off up-stream and leaves us,
we begin our ascent through a rocky pass, hung with
trailing creepers, and seamed with waterfalls, which
like silver veils hang down shining and sparkling from
secret springs aloft. The grey rocks do service in
advertising the well known deeds of Saratoga, and
Banker's Hill, Our friends the West Pointers evidently
think with theEgyptians, that stone records are desirable;
it will take a few centuries of storm to wear out the
written history of these rocks.

Buglea are calling to muster and mount as we gain a
spacious quadrangle on the plain. All around run solid,
castellated buildings ; and in the centre of the squv©
are gathered the little band of America's military hope.
From all parts of their brave fatherland come these cadets.
As I see them answering to the roll-call, each attired in
light grey uniform, with black Zouave cap, I think
that I have ne\ er seen finer forms, or more eager intel-
ligent faces, than these soldierly youths display. They
are the pride and care of the nation, clothed, fed and
taught by Government.

While they are arranging in the square, we follow a
courteous officer, who shows us as it were in a nutshell
of time, the ** lions" of West Point. This is a specimen
of the rooms, each of which is occupied by two cadets ;
we may peep inside and see its camp-like furniture, iron
bed and table, and carpetless floor. The young men who
are in, quail beneath the eye of my guide, and this in -
cident makes us think of the penalty which attended
shirkers in our college days. That solid building is the
Academ.ic, and this one the Trophy Hall. In the first
goes on a part of that educational course which tasks the
ability and energy of each cadet to t le utmost, but which
when completed gives its possessors a high stand before
the world. In the other, are gathering those spoils of
War which America like older nations must now and
again reap on battle-field and quarter-deck, though we
trust that such accumulations may be slow, while the
greater triumphs of peace may grow apace. We will not
linger here ; a troop of saddle-horses have been led up
from below by the grooms, and now each grey uniform
leaps into a rough Mexican saddle as the bugle sounds the
mount. Bidding us adieu, our officer friend commits us
into the care of a soldier for guidance round the outworks

The plateau in front of us has been carefully levelled,
an(J all obstructing boulders removed, save a small rock
in the centre, from which floats the commandant's flag.
In a grove o^ trees stands the place of summer encamp-
ment, where, lodged in canvas tents, these young warriors
gain some initiation into bivouac life. " Gay as a
soldiers life" we often say, and our friends here are
no exception, for during summer months, sisters, mothers
and friends come up to the camp, and then dancing-
parties and merry doings are for a little time permitted
to relieve a life of study, drill and engineering practice.

Turning aside from equestrian evolutions on the plain,
we enter an elm-grove, where, ranged round are trophies
of captured cannon. English field-pieces of 100 years
ago figure here in a ** little way," then come heaps of
Mexican guns ; each one bears upon it the name of the
battle in which it was taken. The tell-tale face of one
informs you that it was cast at Southampton, and
belonged in its early days to Eepublica Mexicana.
Another, bears upon it the crest of Mexico, * * an eagle
with a snake in its mouth." We fancy that there is more
of the snake than the eagle in the character of its people
to-day. Here are old Spanish mortars stamped as king's
property, Ferdinand rex Hispaniola.

"We in Europe knew little of Santa Anna's republic,
until Maximilian led thither the eagles of France ; yet
long before that time American armies had camped in
the city of Mexico, after fighting their way through
blood. These brass guns tell us stories of Monterey, of
Vera Cruz, of Molins del Rey, of Angostura and B uena
Yista, and of other battle land-marks which were won
before the star-spangled banner floated in peace from the
walls of the table-land city. We hope to see it there
permanently, ere long, and under its <^gis a nation of
semi-barbarians taking a new lease of civilised life.

lie,

|yet

Lgh

of
lena
on
the
lere
of

Our reverie is interrupted by a rattle, and a •• copper-
head" glides out across the path. Seen, its life hangs
on a single thread, and it immediately falls a victim to
our soldier-guide. By the side of cannon is preserved
a huge link, long ago a unit in an iron chain or boom
which barred the river below against British ships,
" Never say your people didn't help the rebs," and how
can I attempt a denial, for before me lay one of Whit-
w^orth's mighty children, and a rifled gun, which as
certainly gathered its shape in the foundries at Ells wick.
Oh I England thy offences are many, " Alabama " is thy

unpardonable sin," but there are " Whitworths" and

Armstrongs" also ever before thy brother Jonathan's face,
I could understand now the sincerity of a plaint made by
a venerable New England friend. We were standing on
the Bluflf at Ottawa by night, looking upon the silver
river below. We had talked long of old England and
her people, my friend had told me of the love which he
bore to the land of his ancestors, when taking my hand
in his, he said, " Do you know, we felt that Old England
did not behave kindly to us in our time of trial and gloom.*'
What could I say, but simply admit it as a partial fact I

Far away on a wooded hill above us is concealed Fort
Putman, but there would be no uncertainty as to its
** locus " did an enemy appear. Below are Fort Clinton
and Battery Knox, both of them looking out on the river.
It is quite a sight to watch the fleet of ships below, as
each vessel catches the wind, from round the point, how
its sails swell, and carry it scudding out of the wind-
locked pass. On a little mound on the slope stands
Kosciusco's monument, and hard by in an undergrowth
of weeping willows and lilacs you stumble upon a well
of water, a little fountain and a tangled garden, all of
which are identified by tradition with the Polish patriot's

' {„

name. Here too is a dint in the rock, said to have been
made by a cannon-ball, fired at random from a ship in
the river below, yet it came very near the spot where
Kosciusco lay in hiding. A monument has risen to
'* General Dade and his companions," Ont of a band of
300 men, 3 only were saved in the encounter with the
Indians of Florida under Oceola, commemorated by the
monument.

West Point is a beautiful spot ; mountains close it
round on two sides, and the river washes it on the north
and east. A spur of the Alleghanies traverses the
Appalachian hills and makes the " entourage " complete.
Before leaving we take a glance at the officers' pleasant
quarters ; we stroll through a grove of trees, which our
young romancers have called "Flirtation Walk," and
take a peep at Buttermilk Falls. Then after lunching
at "Cozzens," we descend to the ferry, the cry of the
kati-did being the only sound that accompanies us to
the quiet landing-pier under the rock. "You will have
distinguished visitors sometimes" said I to the ferryman.
" Oh yes," he replied, " one day Mr. Lincoln came and
we didn't know him, he was fo quiet and plain, but when
we found out he was our President the boys did give him
a salute." North of West Point on the foundries of Mr.
Parrott, the inventor and maker of the famous guns which
bear his name.

Leaving the ferry-boat, we stop on shore at Garrisons.
A few miles over the hills, the curious visitor will find a
New-World Agapemone, with bloom-bearing fruit gar-
dens, scented flower beds, and bams bursting with
harvest ; a settlement of industrious men and women,
who are great in religious dances, straight-cut garments,
and theories of free love. (In "New America," my
readers will find a graphic description of Mount Lebanon,

nsons.
find a
t gar-
with
omen,
ments,
my
)anon,

from Mr. Dixon's pen.) Shakerism is one of those sin-
gular growths, which claim to find authority and
con ordat in the Bible. It is another demonstration
how the truths of the sacred Book may be wrested to
suit any doctrine of man's desire. A member of one of
these religious tribes told me of certain tenets of his
belief. The paradise of his hope was an earthly one, not
in the "new heaven," but on the "new earth" of St.
John's revelation. As a rule, these freaks of practice
and belief in things spiritual, like Mormonism, and Free
Love, are only excresences on the tree of religious life.
American Protestantism is a strong and sturdy-growing
tree, overshadowing with its branches, adherants in
every comer of the empire. There are certain boles of
oddity upon its trunk, which puzzle a classifier of "isms,"
even from the gnarled old lives of Europe. Cut through
the bark however, and you will find the rings of evan-
gelical truth increasing in circle year by year. Hope on I
fancy faiths and interpretations shall crumble and die,
but the faith of the Apostles shall march on to an
everlasting and all-triumphant kingdom.

My companion had a telegram for New York. He
committed it for transmission into the hands of a female
operator. We observed how skilfully she put the mes-
sage upon its travels. The tiny room bore evidences of
feminine taste. Flower, picture, and needle-work
marked a woman's rule. The elegance of the boudoir
had been grafted, not unsuccessfully, upon the hard
planked walls of the telegraph bureau. If ever American
women gain their desire, and enter the lists of employ-
ment shoulder to shoulder with men, we trust that they
will not surrender the taste and elegance which is the
Inheritance of their sex.

Near Tarry town we may see the well where Major
Andre was resting, when poanced upon by the American
soldiers. In vain he bid them take his watch and purse.
All that a man hath will he give for his life, but no
pleading could move the stern honesty of his captors.
His life was forfeited. A granite obelisk marks the
place, but his remains have rested for more than half a
century in Westminster Abbey. A memorial church
has risen upon the spot of the vision of the " headless
horseman." A melancholy interest connects twin
associations of the place, the scene of poor Andre's death,
and of Irving's happiest legend-creation. Tragedy and
comedy have here woven history together.

The open grounds round Sunnyside, are studded with
villas of merchant princes. Williams, Jaffray, Oottinet,
and Grinnel, aro all well known and honoured names,
both in the city and at the homes on the Hudson.
Irving's cottage is embowered in ivy. The cuttings which
have ripened to such dignity and exuberance of growth
passed from hand to hand years ago on the banks of the
Tweed — Abbotsford the scene — donor and recipient
Scott and Irving. The names of " Sleepy Hollow," and
"Carl's Mill," are still known in the vicinity of Tarry-
town. They remi d us that the romancer, no less than
the poet turns "airy nothings" to shape. Irving's
** creations" will live on, and be read by future generations,
for they shine with quiet humour and playful fancy,
* * * the mirth and merriment,
Which bar a thousand harms, and lengthen life.

EMPIEE STATE.

(\j[ WILL attempt outline sketches of three scenes, each
(^ of which is laid in the region of the famous springs
of Saratoga. My readers may fill in the details of each
of these pictures for themselves. The first is an his-
torical scene. Two armies are ranged upon the plain.
But a few hours ago they were rival hosts, now the
tournament of strife is over, the old flag of England is
drooping low, before the banner of the new Republic.
The defeated British soldiers have laid down their arms,
and their commandant is tendering his sword to an
American General. Among the stafi'of officers surround-
ing General Gates are two prominent figures, one, a
patriot Colonel, the ancestor of the honoured Prescott of
our times, the other an ofiicer dressed in white uniform,
Colonel Morgan, the celebrated commander of the
Virginian Volunteers. A fresco painting in the Rotunda
at "W ashington, will perpetuate this memorable scene as
lon^ as the Capitol stands.

A populous town has sprung up near the battle-field
mentioned in the preceding sketch. Its streets are
shaded by maples and elms ; gay shops and monster
hotels indicate that the place is a resort of the ricJiesse
and fashion of the country. Here during the brightest
months of the summer solstice, you will find Legislators
and Congress-men, Southern planters and Northern

merchants, with a sprinkling of Califomians, and now and
then as a rara avis, an European Ambassador, Here tco,
you will find in all the glory of beauty, and in all their
** bravery of apparel," — American ladies. Dancing far
into the night, and drinking the " waters " before the day
has begun, have become the ruling passions, the Alpha
and Omega of life ai fashionable Saratoga.

" Who has e'er had the luck to see Donnybrook fair ?

An Irishman all in his glory is there,
With his sprig of sluUelagh and shamrock so green," — OldSong.

This is not more true of Ireland, than that our fair cousins
of the "West allow no peace to fathers and husbands until
they are taken to share in the revels of the " Springs."

T* 1^ T* 'F T* T*

It is a September day, when you alight from the
railway cars at a rough barn-like station. As you pace the
platform, it is somewhat hard to realise the fact, that
during the " season " one thousand guests arrive here
daily. Passing into the deserted streets, you are ready
to exclaim — Is this Saratoga — the famous city — "whose
antiquity is of ancient days ?" When the first harbinger
frost-breath, brushing the maple leaves on its passage, is
felt here, the gay company take wing in haste for home.
Coming into the recently evacuated camp of fashion,
surrounded by the debris of those things which minister
to the wants of her devotees, I caught myself musing,
and inwardly repeating these thoughts: —

♦' I feel like one who treads alone,

Some banquet-hall deserted,

Whose lights are fled, whose garlands dead," —

when musing suddenly came to an end, under the
vigorously applied suggestions of Melpomene Brownell,
and Thermopylae Philemon Collender, the authorised
<< touters " of Empire House.

The lake is left; to its loneliness, the Opera House to
silence ; the springs at Congress-Hall and High Rock
may ebb and flow unnoticed, the waters of the Excelsior
and Columbian fountains will remain untasted, no throngs
of visitors will jaunt it to the Falls of the Mohawk.
Everything reminds you, that the harp of pleasure, but
a little while ago so ubiquitous at Saratoga is mute.
But the place will burn with eager life again. Tha
winter of its loneliness will depart, the summer days of
its revels will return. Birds of passage will not more
certainly seek the reed-beds of Winnipeg and Saskat-
chewan, than will birds of pleasure come again to flutter
round the Goddess who reigns enthroned at Saratoga
Springs.

The pioneers of the New York Lothians must have
been giants in classical history. The nomenclature of
their towns attests the fact. Ithaca and Syracuse, Utica
and Rome, and here under the shadows of Ida and
Olympus, stands a New World Troy, A wonderfully
different city it is from the Ilium of Virgil, from the town
which iBneas described to the Carthagenian Queen. It is
twice as populous as Quebec, it is prospering and
flourishing; and with the sight of its church spires
before me, I may call my story of it — more appropriately
than Milton's city of mythological worship — " the tale of
Troy divine."

Owing to the washing away of a railway embankment
in the north, I was detained for some time in Albany,
which may be considered at the head of navigation on the
Hudson, and the pivot on which turns the traffic of the
West by land and water. It is a fine pleasant city, and
is the political capital of the State of New York. The
streets are broad and well planted with shtlde- trees.

Passing up the steep pavements of State Street I came
upon the noble State House on the summit. In the library
here are preserved all the documents relating to Arnold's
treason, and the death of Andr^.

It so happened that I had very pleisant company, for
two American gentlemen were my companions in
misfortune. One of them a Boston merchant- captain had
lost much of his Yankee prejudice; it had been fairly
knocked out of him in twenty three years of foreign travel
and life abroad. He had seen a great deal of our military
oflficers in China, and likes them very much. He was in
Manilla in 1852 at the time of the great earthquake ; he
could never have imagined anything like such a convulsion
of nature.

Another of our company, a banker from New York
described to us a funny scene which he had witnessed a
little while before at the Tower of London. An American
family were passing through this ** old curiousity shop, "
and by and by came to the rifle armoury, in which 75,000
Sniders were piled side by side in bright array. " O
I see, " exclaimed Mrs. America, ** I guess a lot of those
behind are rusty, and you put a few shining ones in front" —
"Madam," replied the old warder, "there is neither dust
nor rust here, what you see is the reflection from behind,
this is not a show-place, but a real armoury, and it is by
the courtesy of the British Government that you are
allowed to go through," — and still further, "there are
hands to use them too, there are both riflemen and rifles
in old England." The following story of a Britisher
"abroad" I will tack to the one just related of Jonathan.
Both have th^ir odd ways. The story appeared in a daily
journal, so may be deemed public property. The French
delight to relate stories of English eccentricity. Few

things tickle them more ; and one such anecdote is just
now reported, on the authority of M. Qarnier-Pages.
Speaking of Election times in 1863, he says, one evening
** I received 6,000 persons ; or I should " rather say,
6,000 men, and one woman." Thereby hangs the tale.
An Englishman and his daughter arrived one night from
Florence, and put up at an hotel in the Rue Saint-Roch.
They saw people crowding into No. 45 in the street.
"What's this ?" said the Englishman. "An assembly at
the house of Garnier- Pages," he was told. " Very good ;
then I will go too," he dtjlared, and in he went, his
daughter leaning on his arm. The faithful historian adds
that the son of Albion was in full travelling costume —
yellow waistcoat, red necktie, green jacket, carpet-bag
in hand. The dau^ater, Miss Anna was a charming girl
lovely pink and white, who made havoc of the ice-creams.
When the time for departure came, the English traveller
addressed M. Garnier-Pages. " I am very glad to have
the opportunity of seeing you again. Monsieur," he said,
"When you were in England I followed you about from
London to Manchester, from Manchester to Glasgow, from
Glasgow to Dublin, from Dublin to Edinburgh, from

Edinburgh to ." " Indeed," said M. Garnier-Pages,

"to see me eating?" "No, but to beg of you to be so
good as to kiss my daughter Anna, who has alreadv been
kissed by Lord Russell and Lord Disraeli, Sir Napier*
Sir Cobden, Kossuth, Garibaldi, the late lamented Cavour,
Changarnier, General Bedeau, Ledru-Rollin, M. de
Beust, &c. " Anna present your forehead to M. Garnier-
Pages." The distinguished Frenchman professes to have
been stupefied with astonishment as he stood before this
imperturbable Englishman, who had turned the brow of
his daughter into a kind of album, where the illustrious
signatures came from the lips. However he went through

the performance like a man : ho kissed Anna. The
Englishman drew from his coat a pocket-book, and made
a note of it : "May 24tb, 1863. M. Gamier-Pages kissed
"Anna." Then he tucked his daughter under his arm,
made a stately bow, and went away happy, with his yellow
waistcoat, his red necktie, and his green jacket, looking
for all the world like a paroquet. It is well to see
ourselves as others see us.

I failed to " make connections" and " get aboard" the
train at Schenectady and so had to remain in harbour
long enough to take stock of this old Dutch town. It is
now thoroughly Americanised. In seeking out the
" baggage master," I went into two or three saloons in
which hard drinking was going on. My companion, a
young Ohio man, and no coward either, declared that he
himself would not stay in such places, if he valued
his personal safety. He complains that Americans of
this class are very uncivil, and can scarcely answer a
question without an oath, and are very different in this
respect from the English. So I often found it. The
missing official at length turned up, and released my
companion's luggage.

We had telegraphed to / for berths in the sleeping

car by the night ex I am pleased with these

sleeping cars. A ne in attendance to make up your

berth and then he hands you a couple of warm rugs.
The berths are in two tiers, ship-fashion. In the
morning you awake to find it time to rise. Tour boots
are ready cleaned, and you may wash and make a hasty
toilet in the little room in one comer of the car.

We stayed for bresikfast at Eochester, and here Western
peaches begin to be plentiful : you may make a meal of
them at any time, for they are like the bread-fruit, meat
and drink. Close by the rail are the Genesee Falls eaid

tern
jalof
meat
Baid

to be higher than Niagara. Just now the river is so low,
that no water is going over the Falls. When flowing,
the waters pass over an immense flat rock, the whole
width of the stream, and then leap mto the pool beneath.
The rock is a kind of blue slate-stone. Dr. Newman Hall
tells a story of his visit to Rochester in this wise : he
enquired of one of the townsfolk as to the whereabouts
of the great sight of the place, and so little is the cascade
held in honourable remembrance there, that the good
man replied, giving the stranger the location of a store
where there were sold "water-falls" for ladies head dresses.

On rushes the train again ; the country through which
it passes seems good grazing land, and here are a few
English-like thorn hedges. The iron bridges over streams
are simply beams for the rail track to rest upon ; the space
between is open and bridgeless, and attests the principle
of railway economy.

New York men say of their prisoners that they are sent
to a " marble-palace on the Hudson," referring of course
to the place of detention at Sing Sing. All joking apart
however, we must acknowledge that the Americans have
an excellent mode of treating ordinary prisoners ; i, e.
persons guilty of criminal offences. There i^ scarcely such
a thing aa imprisonment for debt, for in the United States
you cannot push a debtor to extremity, but must leave
him in possession of house, funiiture and homestead. At
Auburn in the interior of New York State is a large
prison answering to one of our county goals. A prisoner
entering there is asked his trade, and if it is one of ordinary
handicraft he is placed in a large room to pursue it. Other
men work along with him but strict silence is enforced.
If a person had no previous occupation he is taught a
a branch of trade. It i^ not compulsory on any of them

to work, but it has been found that aZZ choose labour and
the Bociety of their fellows, in preference to idleness and
solitary confinement. A small sum of money is daily
placed to the credit of each, dating from the time of
entering ; so that when the periodjof sentence is completed,
each on leaving prison may join the ranks of honest
labour again, for he has a trade at command and a small
capital with which he may begin business.

vvrvien you visit America, you will come West and
see -ae at Lufialo, will yon not, " was the request of
a young American friend, as he and I sat together in the
orchard of Ann Hathaway's cottage at Stratford. I passed
my word to him by the quiet Avon, and redeemed it
to-day on the shore of Lake Erie.

Buffalo is a large town of 145,000 people, in which the
German element is largely prevalent, as indicated by the
German names and inscriptions on many of the shop signs.
It has rather a sombre appearance with its red brick
buildings, and streets planted with trees. Here the
useful is evidently the order of the day, the citizens have
scarcely begun to understand the ornamental.

The city has an immense trafic in grain from the upper
lakes. I went first to look at the "elevators. " An old
American came forward on my speaking to him, and said,
<< Well as you are a stranger, I will shew you all about
them, for I have built all the "elevators" in Buffalo
myself." And shew me round he did, in a rough but
kindly manner. The ** ele"^at ' " is a square tube of wood
inside of which are scoops like the buckets of a water-
wheel, worked by an endless belt. The nose of the tube
is put down into a ship's hold ; these scoops soon empty
its cargo of grain and deposit it on an upper floor of the
"house," as a warehouse is called here. All corn here

lOur and

aess and
is daily
time of

[npleted,
honest

i a small

;V^est and
jquest of
ler in the
I passed
leemed it

vhich the
Bd by the
lop signs,
•ed brick
Here the
iens have

he upper
An old
and said,
all about
n Buffalo
ough but
e of wood
• a water-
f the tube
on empty
Dor of the
orn here

is sold by weight. I thought the arrangements for
weighing and measuring the grain much better than at
Marseilles, but not so complete and perfect as the new
mode in use at Liverpool. Trade is so good in tihe city,
that mechanics in sufficient number cannot be obtained,
although the wages offered are 7 dollars or 20 shillings
sterling a day. Buffalo has a frontage of 5 miles to the
lake. Erie is shallow ; and has the unenviable distinction
of possessing a long line of " lee shore" all round. Its
waters are sooner lashed into fury by the winds, and its
navigation is on this account more dangerous than Huron,
Superior or Michigan. I found out my friend in his
pleasant home in Clinton Square. The large drawing
room in which we sat was full of curiosities which he had
gathered during a year of European travel. Photographs
from Eome and the Holy Land ; a musical box from
Geneva ; flowers from the Pool of Siloam, and gay colored
prints of the Paris Exhibition were among these
trophies. Mr. P. had written a journal of his tour, and he
told me that already he had had several offers made for
it, with a view to acquiring a right to publish it. His
return home had been greeted by quite a ** flourish of
trumpets" in the local newspapers. The young traveller
was sadly altered since we parted in England, After
reaching his United States home, he immediately took a
long trip to the West, during the terribly hot weather,
and since then has been sinking in heal jh. His mother
had a kindly hospitality for the English stranger and yet
she seemed to have very dim ideas of '* our people," and
had a notion that the English are all slaves under some
despotic rule. She can't imagine why my countrymen
come over to the United States on pleasure, as it is such
a rough unsettled country, and she also thinks it high
time for the United States Government to pat a stop to

emigration from Europe of all poor and helpless people.
This bustling -Western port "boasts a poet, who is
*' thought all the world of" by the inhabitants. There
was a good gathering of young folks at his house
that evening, to which the Clinton Square household
contributed its quota of guests. Afterwards P. and I sat up
chatting about old times, while his little sister played
for us on the piano. Very warm ones were his memories
of England. The flood-gates of English hospitality
seemed to have been opened to him, and he had tales to
tell of a descent into Newcastle coal mines ; of visits to
heffield factories; of rambles on Oalton Hill; and glances
of the grim castle of the Scottish metropolis. I felt very
sorry to leave him, as it seemed possible we might never
meet again. ^_

This supposition has proved correct, for my poor friend is

since dead.

THUNDEE OF WATEKS.

<yMMEDIATELY after entering my name in the
(3 visitors' book in the Hotel at Niagara, a gentleman
came up to me and said, "Are you an Englishman?"
" I saw you in the cars this morning," " You and I were
born under the old flag." It was now ten o'clock in the
evening and quite dark, and going up to our rooms
together he proposed a walk out to see the Falls. He
then took a pistol out of his bag, showed it to me, and
put it into his pocket, saying, "It is not safe to go out
here into the lonely places after dark without this."
" Last year I went out on to Goat Island, and was tracked
for a long time by two thieves ; I was unarmed, but had
managed to pick up a thick cudgel in the woods, and was
determined to sell my life dearly : fortunately a carriage,
with visitors who had been out to see the Falls by
IT onlight, passed me: I stepped up and asked to ride,
and this I was at once allowed to do. Two years ago a
man was robbed and thrown over the Falls." Half an
hour later, in the moonlight, we stood on the spot of the
murder.

Thus prepared and in company, we walked out, passed
on to Goat Island, and through the woods away to the
Terrapin Tower, from which we had a good view of the
Canadian or Horse Shoe Falls, in the dim weird light of
a clouded and partly obscured moon. Anything more
awful and lonely could not be. As far as we knew not a
human being was near us. Alone we stood amid this

i 1

mighty power of nature. A wooden gallery leads to the
tower, which is built on a ledge of rock, in the midst of
the rapids. A few yards to southward, the waters of
Superior, Huron, Erie and Michigan take that terrible
plunge which has made this spot a wonder of the world.
Day and night, summer and winter, for long ages, for
aught we know since the beginning of time, this carnival
of waters has continued. With furious, angry haste,
but still with chain or link unbroken, these waters join
Ontario. Ycu would think this reckless leap to be unto
destruction and annihilation, but no ! Deep down in the
boiling caldron there is a bottom, there is a rallying
point, whence in a while the floods emerge, their trans-
formation dress of misty spray to be again transformed —
toned down to waters capped with snow-white foam.
Anon they struggle, they grapple with the pent-up gorge,
and fight with a perfect "Trossachs" of unyielding, hardy
rock, and then with anger over, and in gentler mood,
they pass the flood-gates of Ontario and lose their
individuality for ever.

The Indian's nomenclature is often more poetical, and
yet more pithy than our own. His ** Texas" means
"a land of plenty" ; his "Alabama," signifies **here we
rest." So with Niagara ; he called this spot of sounds so
mighty, " Thunder of Waters." Though his race fade
away, and^fail upon the earth, "Niagara" will record his
tongue and literature for ever. To him the huge rocks
seemed an altar for his Manitou. To him the never-
ceasing spray seemed like the smoke of incense ever
mounting heavenward. To us a voice of thunder speaks
of the Invisible One in every storm, to the red man
"Niagara's" thunder spoke of the "Great Spirit."
What wonder that fear should come upon him, when he
listened to this mighty tone ? What wonder that his

jre we
ids 80

te fade

^rd bis
rocks

Inever-
ever

I speaks
jd man
Jpirit."
rben be
lat bis

human heart should counsel an offering of peace ? And
so on that great day of festival the tribes sent forth a
precious offering, the rarest tithinga of their husbandry,
the richest trophies of the chase, laid ready in a white
canoe. Forth came their human offering to seal with
blood and life the grim sacrifice. A maiden of the
nation takes the charge, and drifting over the Falls
is supposed to meet acceptable entrance in the heathen
Elysium.

To us it preaches a wonderful sermon of the power
of Him whose hand "setteth fast the mountains and
holdeth the waters in the hollow of His hand." It
requires little superstition to imagine a Spirit in the
seething flood. This was in Scott's mind when he pictured
the Spirit of the Flood, answering the Spirit of the Fell.
As we stand here in the weird moonlight, and look
intently upon the concentration of watery rage and strife
below, there is a strange fascination in the scene ; invisible
cords and seeming voices are on us and around us : to
the melancholy and despondent one would come the
fancied call of piteous lamentation, a soft entreaty to join
with fellow spirits in this Saturnalia of Waters.

And yet putting all superstition aside, what have we
to fear ? Naught. We are as aafe here as anywhere in
the wide world, for the eye of Him who made this
natural wonder, is equally mindful of His human family.

* * * all places that the eye of heaven visits,
Are to a wise man ports and happy havens.

Through the open window of my bedroom, all night

long, with moments of wakefulness, came the sound of

the Eternal Cataract. In 1868 two Chinese Princes

visited Niagara. Great was their desire for complete

understanding. They entered into minutiae of wear and

retrogression with all the interest of our greatest savariM.

OVEE THE STRAIT.

All States that are liberal of naturalisation towards strangers,

are fit for empire.

Bacon.

iijNN the Atlantic sea-board tho cities and people are
^^ essentially English in character. In Carolina, in
Virginia, in Maryland, in Pennsylvania, in Massachusetts,
in Maine, the first settlers were men and women of British
birth.

It is related that when the "May Flower" was ready
to sail from Delft-haven for Southampton, en route for the
New World, some wealthy Dutch burghers came forward
and wished to join the pilgrims in their enterprise.
**Nay, nay," said the English Puritans with one voice,
*' we go to found a New England in the far west, and
none but men of English blood, and who speak the
English language shall help in that great work." So it
came to pass, and hence it is, that among this section
of the American people you find greener and kindlier
memories of the old country than elsewhere. Westward
it is not so. As in olden time there arose a king in Egypt
who "knew not Joseph," so in the Great West there has
risen a people who cherish no traditions of England, like
those retained by the dwellers in the Eastern States.

Many English who have emigrated to the West, have
done so when commercial distress prevailed at home ;
with recollections of " hard times" in their minds, they
have naturally retained somewhat bitter thoughts of the
land in which their lot was poverty. One of these said

to me, "I will never return to live in a country in which
I saw men and women begging bread from day to day."

Worse still are the Irish. More ignorant even than the
English j)easant, poorer than the German emigrant, more
under priestly influence than either, what wonder that they
should dwell upon their real wrongs until the memory
of them has eaten into their very soul, and become
the parent of fancied wrongs. These men are no doubt
uncivil to English strangers, but we must recognise in
this a punishment visited upon us for the misdeeds of our
Government in times past. The policy of English rulers
in Ireland, of doing " those things which they ought not
to have done," and leaving "undone those things which
they ought to have done," is now yielding its fruit in
bitter thoughts and cruel actions even across the wide
Atlantic. With the children of these emigrants will come
a change. In their New-World homes, education will
emancipate their minds from ignorance, though probably
not from prejudice ; industry will raise them above
poverty, and they will become order-loving citizens. To
these we would say, ** think kindly of old England, for
they who dwell there are of the same stock as yourselves,
and in their hearts they cherish the same earnest love of
freedom."

On my way to the Mississippi I halted at the city of
Detroit. In the old French times, it was a frontier post
on the " strait" ; now it is a thriving commercial city, as
large as Quebec and Toronto rolled into one. Up to its
wharfs comes the plash of Erie's tideless waters, and
northward through the lake and river St. Clair you enter
the lordly Huron. Sailing up this inland sea to Mackinaw
is an experience closely akin to ocean voyaging. In fact,
during spring and late autumn, the navigation of these
lakes is more dangerous than the open sea. The winds

lash the saltless and less dense waters into fuiy, and
paddle-wheel steamers are then useless ; hence it comes,
that all steamers going west from Buffalo into the great
lakes are '* screw-propellers/' and they are without the
third tier of state-rooms, universal on the Hudson-river
and Sound boats. The owner of the steamer on which 1
embarked, told me that he had been on her when the
water swept over her decks in waves several feet in height.
It is not often one finds a French skipper, and yet this
man was both owner and skipper in one. Twelve years
ago he left the Empire, and now seems supremely happy
under the Republic.

I was surprised to find fully one-third of the shops
open on Sunday in Detroit, — very little attention is paid
to the day in spirit, though there is some in form ; —
scarcely any trains run on Sundays, and yet smoking,
drinking, and newspaper reading go on as usual among
many sections of the people. Yet even here the good
work does not slumber, it is silently leavening the whole
mass. The young men have banded themselves together
in a Christian Association, and the city has been famed
for its array of churches.

A few miles from Detroit is Ann Arbor, the most
democratic University in the world, as it will some day
be one of the richest, for its modest foundation dowry
is 1,000,000 acres of Michigan land. Here are gathered
1,300 students ; amongst them one lady. A fee of ten
dollars on admission and five dollars annually, are the
only charges made to each individual. Competitive rivalry
is discouraged in lecture-room and study. Canada sends
90 young men to the University, and there are students
from every State of the Union. After graduating here,
many of them go to Germany, to pursue a wider range of
studies at Leipsic, Bonn, or Berlin. All the English

magazines of any note are found in the reading-room of
the University. Large numbers of German works in the
original, and translations of them, find readers in America.
It is well-known that there are many streets in Chicago,
Buffalo, and Cincinnati in which German is almost exclu-
sively spoken. This vast University of Michigan is only
in keeping with other evidences of intellectual life among
the people. In the farm-houses there are good libraries.
It is calculated that English works have a circulation in
America ten times greater than in England, The
publishing firm of Harper Bros, of New York print one
book a minute, or half a million yearly. One of the
Professors at Ann Arbor is an Englishman by birth, but
of 15 years American standing. He spoke with feeling
of the students who came under his eye, as being brave,
pure-minded young men, full of noble impulses — and in
every way worthy of the nation . A gentleman of my
acquaintance was one of a deputation from the Canadian
Board of Trade who visited the University, and he told
me that the young ladies of Ann Arbor placed their
carriages at the disposal of the gentlemen of the deputa-
tion, and showed them every kindness and hospitality in
their power. In " Greater Britain" my readers will find
a full and minute account of the University from Sir C.
W. Dilke's able pen.

The good steamer "Dean Richmond" on her voyage up
lake Erie stopped for a breathing space at Cleveland, the
most beautiful city of Ohio. Its streets are so profusely
planted with shade trees, that Cleveland has won the
name of the " Forest City."

The night when I left Detroit was bitterly cold, and
very thankful was I to share the warm home-spun blanket
of an English settler bound for Iowa. At daybreak we
found ourselves passing through a series of open gladea

in the forest. Away to the northward, magnificent
timber trees ofjirst growth are still repaying the lumberer
for his toil. I had seen the spoils of this region in the
shape of huge logs of walnut on barges floating down
lake Erie. The train rushed on, bearing us through the
"oak-openings" of Southern Michigan; by the edge of
reedy swamps which are still the haunts of the wild-duck
and heron ; past settlers' clearings and fields of sugar-
cane. The energy of Saxon and Teuton life has invaded
a region whose solitudes were once roamed by Canadian
cov/reurs de hois ; emphe and sorghum grow on the spot
where prairie-grass flourished, and maize springs up
amid the charr'd stumps of hemlocks and cedars. The
blooms of these open glades were once the chosen
gathering-grounds of wild bees. Man, the spoiler, broke
into their treasure-cells and the insect colony has taken
wing, but its tribes have not forsaken bloom and flower,
without in their retreat, teaching

The act of order to a peopled kingdom.

The hollow forest-trees which they garrisoned as
citadels, and in which they stored the honey, have given
place to villages, in which Saxon law is kept, and Saxon
words are spoken. In glades where the bee-hunter
practised his craft, we now hear the cow-bells, and where
his log-storehouse Fitood on the banks of the Kalimazoo,
a steamer is to-day loading the cargo of peaches which
Chicago calls for eveiy twenty-four hours. We have
wound our way through sand-hills, shapeless mounds
which are the drift-winds' monuments, we have glided
for two or three miles over the lake on a tressel-bridge,
and are now safe and sound in one of the fourteen railway
termini of Chicago.

There is in the British army a regiment which claims
to carry on its baimers the proud motto of *' Primus in

India." Chicago goes a step further, it claimi to be the
Jirst in the realm of enterprise and successful adventure.
If you suffer from morbid notions of palaaontology, go to
Chicago, and the glory of ancient things will there be
rivalled by the new.

"Within the city of London there is a square of ground
which a Rothschild valued at the price of an equal area of
golden sovereigns ; here, on lake Michigan, is a spot of
land, won from the waters, which aspires to an equal golden
value. What have these Western Yanks accomplished
to make good their boasting ? Here, thirty-five years ago,
they began to build arouad a solitary trading fort, and
in one short generation of fervid Amftrican life they have
reared a more splendid city than Nineveh. They have
lodged in houses of brick and marble, a population, ten
times the number of that which clusters round Cape
Diamond. From Wisconsin, from Minnesota, from Iowa,
from Indiana, from Illinois, yea from far away San
Francisco, they have gathered up tho reins of the iron
roads, and hold them fast at their port on Michigan Lake.
Their swing bridges over the river are marvels of
ingenuity, but, impatient of delay, they have driven a
tunnel under it.

Tbey have conceived the idea that the waters of their
lake shall be mingled with the Mississippi floods, to flow
thereby, right down to the gulf of Mexico. It shall no
longer be the exclusive right of the Britisher to tap the
great lakes by his St. Lawrence; they, Western men, will
draw them too, by a ship-canal into their own Mississippi.
They may well be proud of their waterworks, — tho
supply can never fail. Two miles out in the lake they
ha'^e built a " crib" which is connected with the shore by
a t mnel carried ten feet under the bed of the lake. It
was cut through solid clay, and not a drop of water

percolated from above during its construction. Out at
the lake water-house, live the men in charge and their
families. There are tide-shuttles, or water-gates fix-'d
at different levels or depths, so that when the upper
purface of lake-water is muddy or sandy, a ' ">wer and
more undisturbed current can bo admitted through the
sluices, intothecrib, forthe town's supply. At Mackinaw,
and at Sault St. Marie, the water seemed as green as
emerald, but when the Chicago folks have filtered it and
placed it on their tables, it sparkles like morning dew.

A noble avenue, composed of pleasant dwellings, runs
fo'* . lilea along the margin of the lake. Pacing its
terraces, it is somewhat difficult to understand that the
expanse of water before you is only a fresh-water lake,
and you would think the breeze which is blowing land-
ward to be no other than one salted in the wide Atlantic.

Sitting over our claret and peaches at dinner with an
Iowa merchant, he proposes to take me to the su^imit of
a high mountain to see the thriving city. ** Reckon this
'11 try your wind and nerves," said my lithe western friend
as he literally spun roundup the interminable steps of the
City Hall Tower. At length we were out on the turret,
by the side of the straining flag-staff, and looking down
upon the city ; from our lofty vantage-post, men looked
like mice, and ships like cockle-shell boats. On terra-
firma again, the streets seemed full of London life and
Parisian toilets. Here is the Irish mason exulting to tell
you of five real dollars earned every day, when his lordship
chooses to labour, very different from the twelve pence
daily, and the "praties" of the "a'uld counthree." Here
is an African lady, of undoubted Ethiopian skin, in amber-
coloured garments, and there the Illiiiois farmer in bis
rough home-spun grey.

The citizens wanted a Chamber of Commerce, and
straightway they built 600,000 dollars into the walls of a
noble palace. At Chicago are the oflfices and head quarters
of Pullman's Palace Sleeping Car Company ; last year
they returned 150,000 dollars as the year's profits,
chargeable with Income Tax. Seeing that a traveller
pays four dollars for a night's ride in one of the berths of
their cars, it is not unreasonable to think their income
must be enormous, and the profits princely.

A simile used by an American writer to describe British
energy, is equally applicable to Americans —

The Scandinavian fancied himself surrounded by Trolls— a
kind of goblin men, with vast power for work and skilful pro-
duction — divine stevedores, carpenters, reapers, smiths and
masons, swift to reward every kindness done them, with gifts of
j:jold and silver. In all American history this dream comes to
pass Certain Trolls or working-brains dwell in the Troll-
mounts of America, and turn the sweat of their face to power
and renown.

Potter Palmer needed a mighty storehouse for his wares,
''but it must be sprung up quick, sir." Mr. Contractor
understands all about ** American hurry," and sets to
work. Tooled at the quarry, all his marble and stone
are brought on to the ground ready for use. I wish our
English masons would remember this. Up rises a fabric,
larger than a Manchester cotton-palace, when the first
storj' is up, it is roofed with water-proof cloth, and while
masons and bricklayers are building up No. 2, carpenters,
painters, and decorators are busy in No. 1. In 60 days
after the first stone is laid, the roof will be on, and P.P.
will be telling his friends that in two weeks more, he will
be selling goods in his new store ; and in profits of dollars
and cents he will soon win back its cost.

Very ingenious are these Tanks ; as £>■ proof of it my
friend Inglia O'Connor showed me in his office, specimens
of lacework, beautifully executed in paper, and to crown
all, when he explained the mechanism of his safe, lo and
behold it opened with a song 1 S'nce the days of that
wonderful leathern purse of Kob Roy, which was defended
by a complex lock and concealed pistol, a slight advance
has been made in the construction of such things.
These worthy Americans have not all the enterprise of
the city to answer for. Inglis took me to a large ware-
house owned by three Scotch brothers. They were
humble instruments in clothing the gaunt, stalwart
men of the West, and not unwilling, for while the New
England manufacturers had reaped a goodly crop of profit
upon their goods, our friends the storemen came in for a
second growth of gain ere they finally dispensed them.

I had a letter to a man of eminence in the city. What
do you think was his history ? Fifteen years ago he had
run away when a boy from his humble home in Exeter,
from a ship-builder's yard, and in this western city had
risen and gained wealth fast. Is there a shop or block of
buildings to be raised a step from their foundation, or to
be thrust back a little from the street. Brown is the man
to do it, and you may be sure that a goodly share of
dollars will be his rewp/x'd. As we sat in a little conservatory
in the heart of dusty Chicago, he told me many a story
of his early struggles aud now rising fortunes,

A countryman of mine who left Lincolnshire seventeen
years ago, invited me to visit his home in Wisconsin.
He has retired from actire business ; upon his new estate
he has built a comfortable homestead, and he spends his
leisure in cultivating peaches i>*^"^ grapes. He will invite
me to a row upon the lake w*::.,ch skirts his farm. Its
bright waters have rolled there for ages, waiting to

become useful to man, and of its beauty no English noble-
man need be ashamed. Land and lake have come to the
kind-hearted Lincolnshire farmer as the reward of honest
labour, and he will perhaps found a family whose
influence shall be greater than that of his one-time
landlords, the Winns or the Lacys of the old country.

"You will find Chicago a pandemonium of wickedness,"
said a provincial gentleman to me, when I mentioned my
intention of going Westward. Arrived there, the begin-
ning of my experience looked omnious. On the station
walls were conspicuous proclamations bidding us beware
of *' jonfidence men,'' on the waters of the adjoining lake
a captain was flying the Fenian flag, a green emblem of
defiance to my Queen and country ; I heard stories from
friend Brown of processions of citizens being attacked by
the "Eibband Lodge" of the West, the cruel Klu-Klux
clan, and murder done ; of swarms of disbanded Southern
soldiers hanging about the city, always ready for lawless
deeds.

But the strongest powers are ranged on the side of
order and peace. Each good citizen is for the sake of his
own interests ** a law unto himself," and the lawless ones
are sometimes visited with terrible retribution. Sunday
Schools and Churches scattered amongst the mansions of
Wabash and Michigan avenues, and standing within the
purlieu of humbler dwellings, attest the fact that Yanks,
Scotch, and English have not left their religion behind
them. Here in the metropolis of the West, and in
hundreds of farm-houses, which nestle amid the broad
corn-lands of Illinois and Iowa, we shall find the earnest
fitith of New England homes, the Ha Bible of Scotland,
and the evangelical belief of Lutheran lands, by the side
of the Catholic regime of priest and confession.

I will liken Cbicago with its mingled lot of peace and
strife, rest and unrest, its gloom of savage passions, and
smile of glad content, to an Eastern scene, which is
brought before us by an English Governor of Ceylon.
"The wild and uncivilised trenches closely on the civilised
here, for in an Englishman's home, near Kandy, a leopard
from the forest above came down nightly, to drink at the
fountain in the parterre." So in Chicago — and here too
the scene is cha.nging fast ; the garden of civilised life is
yearly adding to itself parterres of flowers, of purer
enterprise and softer graces : the waters of its fountains
grow brighter with each philanthropic and earnest
Christian help ; the visits of the lawless leopards of a
fading regime grow less frequent, and perchance some of
them will in these purer haunts, be brought even to change
their spots of ^dishonour for those of honour.

It is worth going a long way to see the corn-lands of
Illinois, and its sister prairie States. Take all the wheat
fields of Sutherland and Cambridge, of York and the
Lothians, of Inverness and the Lincoln levels, and the
sight will be as a tiny photograph, by the side of the
great Illinois painting. Farming is a more simple
operation than in Europe. There is no rotation of crops
in the West. The soil is virgin. It will yield its increase
for a quarter of a century without tilling. An unlearned
man may farm. Plough and cast in seed when neighbors
do ; reap when harvest is ripe. So it comes to pass that
emigrant farmers soon become men of substance, and
their children — educated in the free schools, and trained
in the fear of God — grow up to form the strength and
glory of Western America.

Midway between Lake Michigan and the Mississippi
is Springfield — the Springfield of honoured Lincoln.
Many a stranger and many a patriot will stay to visit the
grave of the martyred President.

Over the Mississippi, on tho soil of Missouri, stands the
queen city of St. Louis. Years ago it was the " Ultima
Thule" of the explorer's desire. "While Daniel Boone
was a pioneer in Kentucky, and Audubon was searching
tho woods of Virginia, the region beyond the Mississippi
was a veritable " no man's land," Here sprung up a city,
and into it, as to a cavo of Adullara, flocked the discon-
tented, the unsettled, the lawless ones of the South and
West. Now it is outstripped by Chicago, and is pressed
hard in the race by its rival, young Omaha of Nebraska.
Speaking of the marvellous progress of Western cities, a
New York banker told me that the best banking-account
they had, was from Omaha. Three young men, brothers,
had gone from Ohio, to the small settlement at Council
Bluffs, and now their transactions are of such magnitude,
and their wealth is so great that they have sometimes
a deposit of 600,000 dollars in the bank.

Just above St. Louis the rivers Missouri and Mississippi
unite, the dark floods of the former bringing sand and
mud into the clearer waters of the main-stream. Un-
fortunately for the St. Louis population, their supplies
of drinking-water are drawn from a muddy Missouri,
instead of from a clear Lake Michigan. A terrible leveller
visits the city now and again, when cholera sfalks through
hundreds of homes, laying low its victims. There was
in St. Louis a population burning with zeal for the
Southern slavery cause, but now, ministers preach to the
negroes, where a few short years ago, such an act would
have imperilled their lives.

I would fain have journeyed further toward the setting

Bun, for

A true, devoted pilgrim is not weary,

To measure kingdoms with his feeble steps.
I would have visited Minneoota — **L'Etoile du Nord,''
as its enterprising settlers call it — the moat beautiful

i, stands the
be "Ultima
aniel Boone
IS searching
) Mississippi
ng up a city,
I the discon-
le South and
id is pressed
Df Nebraska,
item cities, a
king-account
len, brothers,
Qt at Council
jh magnitude,
ve sometimes

id Mississippi
ing sand and
treara. Un-
heir supplies
,dy Missouri,
rible leveller
,alks through
There was
zeal for the
ireach to the
,u act would

Id the setting

steps.
du Nord,''
1st beautiful

Water State of the Union — where hamlets and schools
are fast filling up a region of meres and cascades, but time
would not permit. Westward Ho ! was not more the
watch-cry of Drake and Raleigh than it is of the whole
American people of to-day. In a corridor of the National
Capitol is painted a fresco, and there within the narrow
limits of a picture, you find the embodiment, the concen-
tration of this trait of American character. " Westward
the course of empire takes its sway," is the motto, and
this is the scene, — An Emigrant-train is crossing the
Rocky Mountains : there are the cattle driven before the
wagons ; the pioneers of the band, felling trees ahead of
the train ; the Indian guide is pointing to the smoke of
some prairie-camps below ; every detail is complete,
drawn as it were from the life, the women poorly and
roughly clad, the sick sister pale as death, the rough
men, the ardent, ragged boys. Love blossoms in the
desert, for a stalwart youth is helping a young woman
by hand up the rocks, and over all, on the highest crag,
the captain has planted the United States flag. By the

side is written.

The spirit grows with its allotted spaces,

The mind is narrowed in a narrow sphere.

nt * * ^ * * *

No pent up Utica contents our powers,
But the whole boundless Continent is ours.

These vast regions seem to invite the poorof every land.

It is not profanity to say that the free empire of the West

appeals to all who seek for home and freedom, in a

material sense bidding every one who thirsts for the

waters of liberty and competence to come and receive

freely. Wo are told that we are yet to see another

development of Anglo-Saxon beauty — a race flourishing

amid the Caucasian mountains of the West. I once met

in Paris a lady from the Old World Caucasus, and

remember well her great personal beauty, and her fine

intellectual powers, but these and the like are to be
outdone by a new Circassian race, dwelling in American
Montana.

We can conceive for America a future, the magnitude
of which, t' e mind cannot grasp or comprehend. We
know no human power that can stay the wave of Anglo-
Saxo» empire. The Red Man was unable to work out a
desti-./ for the great Continent through which he roamed,
the ruins in Arizona and Nevada show that another race
has gone down in the attempt, like the Aztecs of Mexico.
The Spaniard thought that Providence intended the New
World as a dowiy for his ancient kingdom of Leon and
Castile.* It is well for the human race that Northern
America has never been subject to Spain, as Mexico,
Peru, and South America once were ; as Cuba is to-day^

To the Anglo-Saxon has come the call to "go in and
possess the land." How thankful we ought to be that
these fair domains of virgin land have not been given to
i>Iahomedan or Hindoo I The land is glowing with a
people, who with all their faults are the children of
iveedom ; a people who hold in their hearts a knowledge,
r.n understanding and a love, weak and imperfect though
it be, of that higher law of holiness and peace, which shall
some day "cover the earth as the waters cover the sea."
For good and not for evil, the tide of people rolls to the
AVestei'n Continent, and on that Continent still westward,
and the empires of earth are as powerless to alter its
times and seasons, as was King Canute to hurl back the
raging sea.

*The ashes of the Discoverer of America (enclosed in an urn of
silver) repose in the Cathedral Chuvoh of Havana. Along with
the royal arms of Spain, Columbus had certain insignia of golden
islands, anchc^rs, and azure billows on his quarterings. At Seville
t'uere is a monument to him, with the inscription, —
A Castilla y a Leon,
Nuovo mundo dio Colon."

EASTWARD HO !

a
of
Ee,

:iie

fd,

its

of
ith
[en
lie

fIFE in the West is no sinecure to one not innured to
discomforts. I battled manfully against mosquitoes
by day, but always on the losing side. It was still worse
to endure privation by night ; to rise in the morning
unrefrcsbed ; scarred with bites of blood-suckers,
"creeping" and "flying." Such trials however are
unworthy of mention, compared with the perils of a
soldier's campaigning. Colonel E. S. Johnson, of Illinois,
told me a story of real hardship, cheerfully endured for
the Union cause. At 19 years of age he joined the
Volunteers as a private in the ranks. Government served
out to its levies, muskets with antiquated j^ini-Zocks, for
when the war commenced it had none other in its arsenals.
Johnson and his fellows preferred weapons of pre-
cision to useless "Brown Bess," so they equipped
themselves with repeating carbines, at their own expense,
also taking their own horses into the field. "When
Lincoln made his first call for volunteers, a little band
were ready — men of Massachusetts — men of Illinois.

Western regiments were told off* to the army of the
West ; the young soldier took service under its banner,
and shared its varying fortunes and ultimate triumph.
His brother was killed at his side, his comrades fell one
byjone around him. jEfe seemed to bear a charmed life ;
never wounded, never quitting camp from sickness or

accident, and throughout those four terrible years he was
always at his post. As a private of 19 ho began his
military career ; at 23 he concluded it as a colonel. With
Sherman he marched through Georgia " to the sea" and
witnessed the closing drama of the Ecbellion at Lynch-
burg. This young hero had seen more of actual wai'fare
than many an older man, yet he wore his honours with a
maiden's modesty. It was only when I asked him to do
so that he showed mo his medal. A plain gold crescent
scrolled with name and military rank ; he prized it as
the martyr's gift, as our soldiers treasure a Victoria
Cross. He had previously asked me to examine a beautiful
specimen of filigree work, a chain curiously fashioned by
a Venetian goldsmith. That was a co. mopolitan prize,
free to the ken of the world ; but the medal was a token
of merit, a possession of the individual man, only to be
looked upon and named with reverence. It was a
memorial of honour, such as a man cares to hand down to
his family as an heirloom.

More than 150 regimenta, comprising 200,000 soldiers,
from the Prairie State threw life and sword into the
Union scale. More volunteers came forward than could
be accepted ; many of these on being rejected passed over
into Missouri and tendered their services. There they
readily obtained enrollment, for the people were luke-
warm in the Federal cause, and loyal men were not so
numerous as in freedom-loving Illinois. Eemembering
these facts, let us credit Americans with a measure of
humility and patriotism, as well as with the boasting and
selfishness so often gratuitously ascribed to them.
Colonel Johnson was returning from an European tour.
He had found there, that the name of the Eepublic was
atill a tower of strength to cis-atlantic nations. After
this knowledge he came home, feeling more than ever

! was
a his
With
' and
i^nch-
u'fare
v^ith a
to do
jscent
i it as
ctoria
lutiful
led by
prize,
, token
jr to be
was a
own to

dicr~,
,0 the

could
d over
e they

luke-
Qot so

ering
lure of

gand

them,
tour.

.c was

After

ever

rejoiced at his soldier's work. Cross came before Crown.
The one ceased to mortally afflict when the last battle
was fought, the other shall endure with the nation's life.
It is rimmed with happiness for the poor and needy,
starred with promise for the world. Already bitter cross
is well-nigh swallowed in bright crown, — the former a
penalty of Disunion, the latter a seal of Union.

Turning our faces from the "Father of Waters," we
may pursue our journey by rail or river. The latter is
the more enjoyable route. At Carlo we pass from the
Mississippi into the Ohio, meaning in our language **the
beautiful river." Steaming now through lake-like
expanses, now through watery defiles, for hundreds of
miles we see to the northward the skirts of the granary
States, Illinois, Indiana and Ohio ; and to the south
Kentucky, the * * ole Kentuck" of banjo tradition, the
" dark and bloody ground" of red and white men's strife.
To those who have leisure for lengthened travel there is
beautiful scenery awaiting them amid the limestone
gorges through which the river Kentucky runs. For
them also the wonders of the Mammoth Cave are open.
For those of us who cannot visit it, the photographer
has taken pictures by the aid of reflectors and the
magnesium light. All the mysteries of the cavern are
laid bare, — the "Gothic Chapel" and the "Column of
Hercules ;" — the "Altar" round which cluster memories
as romantic as those which makes famous the " Wedding
stone" at "Wensley ; there is a " Bottomless Pit" of
Stygian gloom, and through the "Scotchman's Trap"
there is entrance to " Echo Elver."

Illinois is rich enough in wealth of corn -lands, with its
river bottoms of vegetable mould 40ft. deep, yielding 30
to 35 bushels of wheat per acre, worth 2 dollars a bushel.

For Indiana and Ohio thore is not only the climate of
Soubti 'n Fra,nce, but also the vineyards which in the old
lands o. -^tch from Bordeaux to the Mediterranean. The
quiet pasivral life of the dwellers here reminds us of a
.similar scene which an ancient poet has described. The
farmer is amongst his vines, —

Iuutiles(|ue falco ramos amputans
Feliciores inserit ;

or, changing the scene, —

—In rcducta vallo mugicntium
Prospectat errantes greges ;

A variety of horse-chesnut, which in St. Petersburg is a
greenhouse shrub, grows bravely in Ohio ; expanding to
the size of a forest-tree, and to the dignity of naming a
State, — ** Ohio, the Buck-eye State."

The land owners in Ohio number a third of a million ;
proprietary farmers who cultivate their own vine- slopes,
their pastures and corn-fields. Happy would our British
farmers think themselves, if they could each own the 84
acres or so which constitute an average farm in the
** Buck-eye State." These rich lands have yielded
harvests for half a century without intermission, without
application of the manure, which, to our farmers is such
a necessary item of expense. No wonder that Ohio grows
rich faster than Suffolk and Essex. The people are
essentially an agricultural community, yet they have
rQ,ised the vision of their understanding far above the
level of other bucolic centres I could name ; to wit, the
** habitants" of Madawaska. The first settlers started
with freedom from slavery, — every 36th quarter-mile
section of land was set apart for school revenues, — and
now, so perfectly is the science of political economy
understood, that the very convict prisoners are made to

earn their expenses and a little over.* "Where in the
whole world would you find a people who would more
certainly fight to the death for home and freedom, than
the men of Ohio? They proved their loyalty during the
war. General Gary told us of scenes he witnessed when
raising troops to send to the front. The city-halls of
every village in the State rung with shouts of enthusiasm
as he called for volunteers. This leader is not unknown
in England. During a progress of some months through
the three kingdoms, his resolute pleading has been cast
into the Temperance scale. He has faithfully told our
people of the grim warfare that is ever waged amongst
them — of that vice which is a more ruthless destroyer
than the deadliest war. As a M»:ne-Law man and an
advocate of Free Trade, he car: N 3 with him to his home
in the West, the respect of the liiii/ish people. (1870.)

Hundreds of petroleum tanks, and cars freighted with
oil barrels, indicate the proximity of the rock-wells of
north west Pennsylvania. The ravines of Oil Creek are
masted with derricks, and palled with furnace-stacks.
It is no relief to turn southward, where by the once
pure-flowing Monongahela stands Pittsburgh, a Birming-
ham and Newcastle in one. The town was named after
a British Prime Minister, aid on the banks of the river
hard by, Washington won his spurs of generalship under
an English commander. If we were inclined to sorrow for

♦ The convicts are chiefly men of foreign birth. An orator was addressing
the people at an election ; many of his hearers being men who came origin-
ally from " Emerald Isle."

•' Who builds your railroads? " Ans. " The Irish."

*' Who lay out your towns ? '' Ans. " The Irish/'

" "Who build your prisons ? " Ans. " The Irish."

"y/hoJiU your prisons? Ans. *'The Irish."

To the latter question, before former enthusiasm could subside, came an

afilrmative answer. Ranflom as it seemed, it was a fact. Of llOO offenders

confined in the State prison, 950 are Irish. I

..■Jll.l«^

the departure hence of English Saxondoni, we jnight
exoiaim *' Sic transit gloria niundi," but believing in
the presence and vigour of Aynericcm Saxondom, we
rejoice.

At Pittsburgh wo see an example of the evil effects of
a depreciated paper currency upon a pcojile. The miners
there are now receiving in scrip, three times the amount
of wages which formerly contented them when paid in
silver dollars. The apparent increase of prosperity has
proved a source of temptation to the Irish miners which
they cannot resist: drinking and fighting now enter
more largely into the avocations of the week, until the
play of these savage passions has become a terror to
peaceable inhabitants. 'Jlie ignorant Irishman says " I
have ibught your battles for you and now I will rule :" —
with his class it is not more ** Ireland for the Irish" than
in these days, "America for the Irish." Even a child here
knows the comparative worthlessness of greenback
currency. While it looked upon a silver coin as a real
treasure, worthy of being saved, it regards scrip as a
sham and not worth saving. *' This is a had note," said
a lestaurant keeper on my presenting a dollar bill in
payment, and examining it more closely I found that
it was an imitation, a forgery. *'Give it me back" said
I, but the American replied " it will do as well as a good
one, there are thousands of had notes in circulation, and
we are obliged to take the good and bad together." I
could not reconcile my conscience to aiding the fraud, so
pocketed the loss and brought home the note of phantom
value ; but afterwards was careful to refuse imitation
greenbacks.

I liad heard of American tressel bridges, but passing
over the river Catawissa on a wooden viaduct 100ft. high
and 700ft. long, I could not help wishing that American

p as a
" said
jill in
that
said
good
, and
." I
id, so
mtom
bation

(ssing

high

irican

engineers would construct their works, to have at any
rate an appearance of greater stability. Accustomed to
the solid works on English railways, there seemed some-
thing perilous in the steep gradients and awful curves by
which the Blue Ridge and the Alleghanies are passed, into
the lower vales of the Susquehanna -but it is the fasliion
of the land not to be too mindfi.' of the odds. The
Susquehanna where I saw it is a reautiful river, flowing
through meadows and pastures, and 1 could not but think
of the tragic scenes which were enacted higher up the
stream, in ill-fated Wyoming Valley. Valley Forge could
t^ll us of the endurance of privations by the patriot army,
and Germantown and Braudywine of scenes of battle.
At Brandywine there is still a goodly colony of farmers,
mostly of Quaker descent, who retain some of the old
customs of their fathers, and prouder title still, they have
the reputation of being upright and God-fearing men and
women. When the domains of the ''keystone" State were
granted to William Penn, he proposed to call it * Sylvania'
from its large forests, — but Charles the Second gaily told
tho favourite that be must prefix his own name and call it
Pennsylvania. So it came to pass. The old elm tree under
which the good Quaker had his treaty with the Indians
signed, is now no more in the land of trees, but a portion
of it is fashioned into a chair, the sight of which will
satisfy the longings of relic-hunters for a long time to
come.

I halted for a breathing spell in Delaware, a tiny State
which bears about the same proportion to its giant
neighbours as does our Huntingdon to the county of York,
assuming at the outset as a basis of comparison, that
Delaware is about a third ofthe size of our largest county.
It takes its name from the river, which again was called

after Lord De-la-Warr, a name still known in the British
peerage. Here I notice the finest breed of cattle that I have
seen in America, many of the animals being finely Bhaped,
and roaned like our English short-horns. American cattle-
fanciers whom I met, expressed themselves in terms of
admiration about those famed specimens of animal flesh
and blood which are yearly seen at our Royal Agricultural
shows. Delaware bay is a fine sheet of water, narrow
and long, like a fiord, and on the other side of it, in sight
lie the lands of New Jersey.

This state is in some parts flat and sandy, and here
and there resembles the old Jersey of the English Channel.
The good folks cultivate large crops of cranberries. To
insure success the fruit requires to be grown scientifically,
and then it pays well. A dam is made, each frosty night
ill spring and autumn the plants are flooded with water
from it, which is drawn ofi" again in the morning. By
this means they are raised on tracts of sandy soil which
would otherwise be valueless. It is a pleasant sight when
the fruit is turning red, each berry the size of a thimble.
As it will keep during the winter, the fruit is in request
among the thrifty housekeepers of New England.

In many of the States a law prohibits the holding of
land by foreigners. They may occupy property it is true,
but the law can give them no title which wo aid be valid
f^r a bequest or sale of it. The reason of this decree, was
a determination to prevent Englishmen from buying large
tracts of land in the earlier days of the Republic. "With
the ownership of land would have come a power of control
in State aftiairs, but the Americans jealously guarded
against this species of influence. New Jersey is an ex-
ception in this respect. "Within the boundaries of this
State a foreigner is free to buy and hold land or other

1 the British
le that I have
aely ehaped,
rican cattle-
I in terms of
animal flesh
Agricultural
fcer, narrow
' it, in sight

'f and here
3h Channel,
erries. To
ientifically,
rosty night
with, water
■ning. By
soil which
sight when
a thimble,
in request
id.

holding of
f it is true,
d be valid
Bcree, was
)ring large
ic. With
of control
' guarded

is an ex-
Bs of this

or other

property if ne pleases. For this reason the docks of th«
Cunard Company are constructed in Jersev-citv L^^^
in New Yort rri.;. '^'^ "* "^ ®^sey-city and not

corporation. I came up to Jersej-city from the SontJ,
mt.me to witness the welcome given to General M Clellan

Europe, and his friends were determined to gi^e him a
hearty reception. As the fine mail-steamer rfmd^ J
and came into port, her deck was a scene of gXtv a^d
excitement. It was a pleasant sight to me to et eves
again upon the British flag. " me ro set eyes

j'*y

THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE,

^M[>ARGE petrolium tanks, breweries and mills in the
Cr suburbs, proclaim to us that Philadelphia is not
only a city of brotherly love, but also a realm of industry
and citizen competition. When Penn came out in 1682
to look after his grant, he found a few Swedes and Finns
settled on the Delaware river. On a spot that seemed to
have been appointed for a town, and of which Penn
himself wrote, " Of all places in the world I remember
not one better seated," sprung up the beautiful and world
famed city of Philadelphia. Large ships come up the
Delaware and anchor in front of the city, forty miles
away from the Atlantic. The houses are generally built
of bright red brick, while the large palatial stores, the
banks, public buildings, the railway and newspaper
ofl&ces are of granite and white marble. Like the French
Boulevards, the streets are planted with trees,

Guarding in sylvan shades the name of Penn the Apostle.
A savour of rural life still hangs aboat their nomencla-
ture, —

The streets still reecho the names of the trees of the forest.
Cherry and chestnut, walnut and spruce, locust and
pine, maple and vine, with the non-rural names of
Samson and market, race and arch, distinguish the
streets running up from the river, while the cross-ways
are designated by numerals. The city has been laid out
with mathematical precision — each block contains 100

hoases, and each street is simply a multiple of 100 ; for
instance, 43rd street commences with house 4300. There
is no city in the world about which a stranger can so
easily find his way.

Leaving my hotel near Independence Hall, I went first
into the suburbs to find out a friend whom I had met at
Warwick Castle. Beyond 43rd street, the detached
villas and mansions spring up in countless numbers, and
on account of their gardens and sylvan surroundings the
eight of them is perhaps more gratifying to an English
eye, than their splendid rivals in Fifth-avenue at New
York. I did not wonder now that my venerable clergy-
man friend should have acquired a love for nature, nor
that he should quote Ruskin to me on CaBsar's Tower, by
the water-lilied Avon.

On the voyage-out the occupant of the next seat to
myself in the saloon, was a Philadelphia gentleman who
kept the table alive with his jokes and funny stories.
On our parting at New York, he said, ** When you come
to our city you must call and see me, and if I am away,
my people will entertain you." I found out his leviathan
store of fire-arms, piled with Colts, Enfields, and Bir-
mingham fowling-pieces. Hailing from the city of
peace, of course I had set down this worthy shipmate
as a man of peace ; when behold his territories bristled
with arms ! He was ready enough, however, to make
good his invitation and render my stay in his city as
pleasant as possible.

Foremost in interest to us is Independence Hall. The
room in which the Declaration of Independence was
signed, July 4th, 1776, is open to the public. The table
and the President's chair are still there, and also the
great Liberty-bell which was first rung in honour of tho

event. These relics are preserved in the original build-
ing ; some years ago the internal wood-work was taken
out and replaced with fittings in a modern style. This
did not please the people who insisted on having the
wood-work again torn out, and the hall restored with
new material and made a fac- simile in all respects to the
old one. The remarkable scene which took place in this
chamber is commemorated in a painting at Washington.
In the artist's conception, the sombre brown and mul-
berry-coloured garments of the Quakers are noticeable ;
and one of the founders of the Eepublic, John Adams,
might from his likeness have been related to our great
commoner Friend. The charter of Independence is
being deliberated and signed under the aegis of British
flags, which appear on the wall, not having yet been
dethroned by the Stars and Stripes.

Girard College comes next, with its foundation of
8,000,000 dollars, supplying the means for regularly
educating nearly 500 poor boys. The building itself is a
pile of white marble ; the roof also being composed of huge
flags of the same pure material. This immense weight
is supported on brick arches. A glance through dining-
rooms, dormitories, lavatories, chapel, board-room and
library, with a pee^. into the playground and gardens,
show how well and sensibly the wants of the orphan
boys are cared for. A statue of the founder is placed in
the entrance-hall, and his remains lie beneath it. A
very stringent clause in his will forbids all religious
teaching of a sectarian character.

EXTRACT FROM THK WILL OF STEPHEN OIBARD.

Th, e are, however, some restrictions, which I consider it my
duty to prescribe, and to be, amongst others, conditions on which
my bequest for said College is made, and to be enjoyed, namely
♦•♦•••• SecontUyt I enjoin and require that no

Il I

eeelenastic, missionary , or minister of any tect whatsoever^ shall
tv&r hold or exercise any station or duty whatever in the said College ;
nor shall any iuch person ever be admitted for any purpose, or as a
visitor, within the premises appropriated to the purposes of the said
College .-—In making this restriction, I do not mean to cast any
reflection upon any sect or person whatsoever ; but as there is
such a multitude of sects, and such a diversity of opinion
amongst them, I desire to keep the tender minds of the orphans,
who are to derive advantage from this bequest, free from the
excitement which clashing doctrines and sectarian controversy
are so apt to produce ; my desire is, that all the instructors and
teachers in the College, shall take pains to instil into the minds of
the scholars, the purest principles of morality, so that, on their
entrance into active life, they may, from inclination and habit,
evince benevolence towards their fellow-creatures, and a love of
truth, sobriety and industry, adopting at the same time, such
religious tenets as their matured reason may enable them to prefer.

The tale of Stephen ^^rard's life is an oft told story.
A native of Bordeaux, he came to America as a poor
cabin-boy ; step by step he rose from cabin-boy to
owner, from owner to merchant; amassed wealth and
became a banker. Naturally shrewd and longheaded, he
sometimes adventured loans which others declined on
account of the risk. All seemed to prosper in his hands,
until people watched for him, and when his ships sailed
out, others also put to sea, when he lent money, others
lent too, till they came to trust in his inevitable good
fortune. They became as earnest in their belief of
fortune, as the ancient Greeks who believed in Castor
and Pollux.

Safe comes the ship to haven,
Through billows and through galea,
If once the great Twin-brethren
Sit shining on the sails.

soever, shall

said College ;

'pose, or as a

s of the said

to cast any

as there is

of opinion

;he orphans,

ee from the

controversy

ructors and

he minds of

at, on their

} and habit,

I a love of

time, such

n to prefer.

)ld story.
IS a poor
n-boy to
ialth and
9aded, he
lined on
s hands,
s sailed
, others
ie good
elief of
Castor

It was a treat to go over the "Public Ledger" printing
office. The good folks showed me round with great
politeness, and gave me two or three trophies to
bring away as mementoes of the visit. A sharp little
boy took me up on to the roof-tower, from which there is
an excellent view of the city. Curiously enough most of
the roofs are of tin and fiai ; from this desert of stone
walls and painted tin, the eye wanders with pleasure to
the green squares of Independence, Washington and
Franklin, which stand out as oases. I asked my little
guide if he knew the great man whom Philadelphia had
produced in his trade of printer ? He at once replied
'* Yes, Sir," with a peculiar emphasis on the " yes." An
English boy would not have been so ready with his
answer I fancy. We, English, have to thank an Ameri-
can inventor for the printiiig machines now in general
use.

The principal mint of the United States is at Phila-
delphia. You would scarcely think that the handsome
building in Chestnut-street, with Grecian front and
pillared portico, had behind it a "green room" of
enginery and furnaces. In good times of specie-cur-
rency, hither is brought the gold of California, the
silver of Nevada and Colerado, the copper of Lake
Superior, and a sprinkling of nickel from Transatlantic
Sweden, to be stamped with a sign manual of authen-
ticity by the Imperial government of the United States.
Just now, a paper-mill is more to the purpose, than a
metal-mill ; an engraver on steel'more called for than a
die-sinker. At the mint, small coins, in value from 1 to
S^cents, and a pretty piece of money called half-a-dime,
are being produced. The gold furnaces are at work, but
the precious metal instead of coming out in the shape of
eagles and dollars, is moulded into solid bars of great

r
i

ralue, for exportation. Upon the solid marble floor of the
pjold melting room is placed another of perforated iron.
The sweepings which are annually taken up from the safe
custody of the marble floor, are said to reach the value of
80,000 dollars. Many young females are employed iu the
lighter departments of work, the period of labour being
8 hours daily. The old gentleman who supplied me with
sundry new coins to take home across the "fish pond,"
was very kind and polite. One thinks that the absence
of metal coinage in the Uiiited States cannot be long con-
tinued. With the strong-box of Californian gold, and
the rich veins of silver in Nevada and Idaho open to all
seekers, the mint must soon have some of its legitimate
work again.

Turning from a scene of comparative inactivity, I
entered the museum. If you cannot see United States gold
and silver coins in the process of manufacture, you can at
least find samples of the real "almighty dollar" in the
museum. A party of ladies were saying that they never
saw any gold in circulation now, upon which I showed
them an English sovereign, the finished workmanship of
which they admired. Among the curiosities is a Chinese
bar of gold worth 10 taels or 235 dollars ; also a thin plate
of gold, a sample of Japanese money. The law as to its
circulation is very strict, and denotes the way of an ex-
clusive nation.

FOR KNOWINGLY TAKING THIS PIECE OF MONEY OUT GF JAPAN,
THE PENALTY 18 DEATH; FOR TAKING IT OUT OF JAPAN BY ACCIDENT, THE

PENALTY 18 TEN YEARS IMPRISONMENT.
The Siamese coins are rather neat, and very carious in
design.

Poor Maximilian and the Confederate States of America
are now ranked together in museums, since they resigned
the functions of active life. Of the former there are

unoaa in

few traces. A poor stricken widow, a lonely castle in
Austria, an autograph in a Derbyshire scrap-book, bitter
memories among the Mexicans, and a few beautiful and
well-finished coins in a United States museum are all that
remain of the founder of an empire in Mexico. Poor
Maximilian! The late Confederate States of America
are represented here by promises to pay which they could
never redeem. A large scrap-book is filled with notes like
the following: — " The Confederate States of America pro-
mise to pay the Bearer One hundred dollars, two years
after the ratification of a peace with the United States."

There are specimens of quartz from the gold mines of
Nova Scotia, of pure copper from Lake Superior, and
most curious of all is a bird's nest, a perfect nest,
incnisted with carbonate of lime in a wonderful manner.
I left the mint and its museum with the feeling that I
had never spent an hour in sightseeing more profitably
and enjoyably.

Perhaps you will nowhere find an establishment more
self-contained as to all its departments of labour than
the Continental Hotel. Two stories below the level of
the street are workshops, in which the artificers of the
concern are busily engaged. Gas-lights flaring fierc ,
along with a consciousness that we are below the ground,
suggest to the lively imagination of ai. American com-
panion that the scene bears a resemblance to Dante's
Inferno.

Of course we visited Fairmount Park and "Waterworkp
Passing over the river Schuylkill, the conductor pointed
out the dwellings along its banks as being the homes of
the poorer and more turbulent population; for we are
sorry to say there are such Arabs even in great and good
Philadelphia, and streets in which a man's life in not safe
after dark. The waterworks uphold the renow/:ii of tho

I i

city. Never-failing supplies are pumped up from the
riyor, and the clear sparkling stream sent circling through
twelve miles of streets and dwellings. A dam is built
across the river, and through a race cut in the solid rock
the current is brought to play upon the waterwheels, and
there supply the power for pumping. The whistle-call
of a tiny steamer summons us on board, and we ascend
the river to the pretty falls. Near here are the beautiful
cemeteries of Mount Vernon and Laurel Hill, the former
entered by a simple gateway guarded by an Italian
campanile ; the latter through a many pillared porticO'
Within the gates at Laurel Hill we come upon the
monument, or rather the sculptured group known as
" Old Mortality," and cut in the solid rock, overlooking
the Schuylkill, is the tomb of Dr. Kane, the Arctic
traveller. The cemetery is a triumph of landscape
gardening, and is bright and gay with blooming flowers,
and gi'een with cedars of Labanon and the weeping ash.
Further up the river, and along the banks of Wissahickon
Creek, many a ferny dingle and many a dimpled flume
unknown to fame will gladden the eye of the rambler,
and perhaps he will come upon spots which are known to
fame and name like ** Fairy Dam" and "Poet's Haunt."
In American parks you see much green and few flowers .
In this respect Fairmount is no exception. It has groves
of chesnut and maple, but you miss the pansies, the roses,
the primroses and violets, the heaths and rhododendrons,
the geraniums and the trumpet-flower which flourish so
bravely just o ver the southern line. The river Schuylkill
is its lake or fringe of silver, and among its artificial
attractions are a finely chiseled monument to Frederick
Graefi*, the man who originated the plan for laying out
the ;3ark ; and the wooden hut or cabin in which General
Grant lived during his campaigns in Virginia.

I found the old park-keeper quite a learned man in his
way. He could tell me the names of trees growing in the
the city squares which puzzled me sadly to make out and
classify. There was the Chinese catulph with its clusters
of thimble-shaped blossoms like bunches of grapes, and
leaves three times the size of a man's hand ; the analan-
tlius, or tree of heaven, with its long tine-like leaves ;
the silver and red-stom maples, with the chestnut,
Spanish and over-cup oaks. The linden trees have
served other purposes besides forming street-parasols,
according to the followir g, which is taken from the
London *< Telegraph" of April 23rd, 1869 :—

The streets of Philadelphia, like those of most American cities,
have their pavements bordered by limes, planes, elms, and other
"shade" trees, the value of which is incalculable during th«
summer heats. For many years past, the trees have been
infested by countless swarms of insects, known as ** measuring"
or **8pan" worms, which hang from the branches by their long
silken cords, adhere to ladies' dresses, crawl over gentlemen's
hats, alight on parasols, and otherwise obtrude their disagreeable
presence on the passers-by. The City Fathers determined on
applying to old Mother England for a cure ; and an agent was
sent over to procure 1,000 sparrows. They were brought to
Philadelphia, tended with great care until the beginning of
Spring, and a few days since they were liberated in the heart of
the city, to fly whithersoever they chose. The sparrows have
since been building nests in belfries and under the eaves of
buildings, and have also taken possession of the boxes set up for
them in the parks and squares. Thus settled in their new home,
they are expected to multiply rapidly, and be in good condition
for fighting the "measuring wonns" when they make their
abhorrent appearance about the end of May. The sparrows have
experienced the wannest welcome in Philadelphia. The Mayor,
at tho time of the liberation, issued a special proclamation,
requesting the public to protect the little strangers, and pro-
hibiting all persons from injuring them.

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At home one occasionally sees ladies who adopt the
quiet garb of the Quakers, and here one meets cousins of
theirs in the same dress of drab and silver-grey. It feels
strange however, when from under the large " cottage
bonnet" peers forth the swarthy face of a negress, who
scorning the gay bandana, chooses to follow the Friends
in fashions. Tb j dress is strictly adhered to only by the
orthodox section of Quakers, — the other section, the
Hecites are not so formal in the matter of the *'thee" and
**thou" and the dress. My kind friend Lewis Cooper tells
me that the largest "meeting-house" in the city belongs to
members of the old regime. Next to the Swedes' burying-
ground, its grave-yard is the oldest in the city. It is
said that William Peun spoke over the grave of the first
person interred there. During the Revolution and also
during the late Rebellion, some of the good Quakers laid
aside their peace principles, and fought bravely for a
cause which they valued more even than peace.*

Lewis Cooper himself is one of the Hecite section.
His definition of the use of speech or language is simple
enough — "Use the words by which you can best be under-
stood," — and of dress, "use that material which is most
comfortable, healthy and warm." Why therefore be
bound by any rule of speech or dress ? I told him the
story of Alexander and Diogenes, — the conqueror of the
world came to the philosopher and asked him how to be
happy ; "Be humble minded" said the stoic, and taking

*This conduct was not approved by "Friends" in England.
A lady thus eloquently pleads in favour of the non-fighting
Quakers. " No conmunity has had the cause of freedom so
near at heart as our Society. Therefore it was not necessary to
add to the ? oal help they did afford, by taking up the sword.
Many Friends refused to join the army, and were persecuted for
so doing. But they were in a remarkable mauner preserved
from evu,"

the rich mantle of the king, he trttm})led upon it saying,
" thus I trample upon the pride of Alexander." " With
greater pride, Diogenes," said the Macedonian king.
This story took the good Friend's fancy, and pleased him
immensely.

I had looked upon Franklin as a father of the American
people, and expected to find in this city traces of him as
numerous as hi.s own cardinal points of morality. The
last evening of my stay had come, and hs yet I had seen
nothing to remind me of him, except the Square called by
his name, when " I drew a bow at a venture," and asked
a Quaker gentleman to show me the printer's house and
grave. With ready courtesy he at once volunteered to
go with me. The house stood in Franklin Square, near
Hudson-Street. No traces of either home or printing
shop now remain, but the spot can be pretty well identi-
fied. The present owner of the ground told me that
when he came to build his mansion, he filled up an old
well, and discovered a strong arched cave at the back of
the wall. The old market-house in which Franklin used
to address the citizens, is stili stiUiding, and is now a
stable. His grave is in a cnurch-yard at the corner of
Arch and Fifth streets. The wall has been removed, and
a railing put up in its place, so that people may see the
plain grave-stone which simply records the name and
age of hirn whose remains lie beneath. Some relatives
of the name of Bache still live in Philadelphia, but the
great man's name is extinct. By Americans, says my
guide, Franklin is little known, and little enquired after.
It is the old story of a *' prophet without honor in his
own country." Dilapidated Mount Vernon also proves
this. The busy selfish world goes on, and in this city of
Philadelphia each one for himself, cares little or naught
for the past. When thanking my guide for his courtesy, he
remarked that his countrymen are not very reicly to show

i i

kindne'oS to a stranger, but on my assuring him that I
had been the recipient of manifold acts of Vindness, ho
replied, "After all there is much in the way of accosting
people !"

I had heard Lavine, a young A msrican friend, tell of his
adventures witli London sharpers, but now I raysc If came
very near being taken in by a Trans-Atlantic member
of the fraternity. On Sunday afternoon there came into
the pew in which I was sitting, a person with hia urm in
a sling. When service was over I held open the door
for hira to pass out, upon which he thanked me, saying
that he bore a commission as Lieutenant in the United
states navy, and had hurt his arm by a fall, while setting
an example aloft to his seamen. The conversation was
continued as we walked away from the church. The
following are jottings of the story which he told me,
given merely to show the ingenuity of these fellows.
Though a great rogue, the deputy- Lieutenant was a
clever man. He was a Briton by birth, of good Lincoln-
shire family, and educated at Oxford ; having quarrelled
with his father, he ran away to sea. In crossing the
Atlantic he was fortunate enough to attract the Captain's
notice. By him he was sent to the United States
Academy, and then entered the navy. He is very proud
of his profession — has been all over the world,- -during
the war was in 24 actions, and won Mr. Lincoln's gold
medal. Pointing to one which was no doubt an imita-
tion of the real mfiial, he said, " neither John Bull nor
the United States have riches enough to buy it from me ;
it shall be by me transmitted to posterity as a precious
heir-loom." The next step in this wonderful ladder was
an attendance at our Queen's drawing-room. His sisters
and brother recognised him at the Court Ball and came
up to speak ; one of his sisters fainted. Lieutenant
Morgan has not written his family for 20 years and holds

1 that I
less, ho
costing

ill of his
If came
nember
me into
5 urm in
ihe door
saying
> United
I setting
ion was
h. The
told me,
fellows,
was a
incoln-
arrelled
ing the
aptain's
States
y proud
[-during
.'s gold
imita-
uU nor
im me;
Tecious
.er was
sisters
d came
tenant
d holds

no commiiiiiication with them. He spoke of Admiral

Fsit^ragut's European progress, and holds that the United

Btates is the strc ?;yest power in the world ; yet professes

to respect me all the more for defending my own

flag. He ridiculed the French line of Atlantic steamers,

saying that with 10 of his blue jackets he would do the

work, at sea, of ?0 or 25 French sailors on the " Ville de

Paris" in a storm. He wound up this remarkable story

by asking me to go down to the Navy Yard on the mor-

i-ow, when ^e would have a boat manned and show me

round. A little fault in his replies when I pressed b-ii

for the name of his father's country seat in Lincolnshire,

induced me before receiving further advances, to go down

to the Navy Yard and trace the matter out. Arrived

there, in the presence of the real officers, I found how —

The greater glory doth out-dim the loss,
A substitute shines brightly as a king,
Until a king be by.
Fine, manly fellows were the men who had won a right

to wear Uncle Sairi's uniform. By a careful examination

of the service-lists, I found that Lieutenant Morgan was

a myth, his story an imposture. The gentlemen in blue

uniforms laughed heartily at the attempt that had been

made to take in " Johnnj' Bull ;" they said at once to me

** You are an Englishman, ain't you" ? and then, ** have

you lent him any money ?" '* for these Yankees will pull

the teeth out of your head before you know it." This

little by-play over, they showed me every kinr'ness, and

on leaving them, again wr-rned me to be on my guard,

"for your would-be friand is sure to turn up again,

if you ain't on the alert."

I left the good Philadelphians in a most hospitable mood

and in excellent countenance, for they were entertaining

my countrymen, the " All England Eleven ;" and the

Saxons of both hemispheres were batting and bowling

like a band of brothers.

.,.,!«*««(«»*!:

MAEYLAND.

'E are not the first visitors to Maryland. Hither,
nearly two hundrerl m forty years ago, came

Lord Baltimore, and foun^ cd the city which bears his
name. As the Huguenot families who flocked into
Carolina have transmitted the old honoured names to
American descendants, so you find in Maryland familiar
names, which are held by English Catholic Gentry. You
do not more surely find Ravenels and Vandal eurs,
Remberts and Duboscs i' the Palmetto State, than
Vernons and Herberts in Maryland. Though t'iie
Catholic colony soon became " a land of sanctuary," and
Protestant settlers came over its borders, the old faith
is still held by its aristocratic families. Virginia is not
prouder of its <'F.F.V's" than Maryland of its "F.F.M's."
While across the Potomac and eastward of the Shenan-
doah you find Randalls and Purcells, Raleighs and
Fairfaxes, names which have the true ring of Elizabethan
times about them ; so at Baltimore and along the
" Eastern shore" Nortons and Berkleys, L'Estranges
and Temples are mingled with those of German and
Swedish origin.

We know there are glades in the forest into which the
sun never seems to penetrate ; cool, leaf-screened grottos
they are, in which we should not know how a meridian
glory without is steeping the world in light, save for a

-y

few stray glints of sunshine that straggle through the
green canopy. So in Maryland. Between the waters of
the Chesapeake and the Atlantic there dwelt a race,
Americans, and yet not Americans. Men who seemed
to have been bred in Westmorland Manor-houses and
Northumbrian halls, and then grafted into Maryland,
with shoots of democracy and slavery combined. North-
ward their neighbours were racing and hurrying ;
southward their compatriots were sleeping ; here on
the "Eastern shore" they were alive and well, and resting.
Nature gave them plenty, fisheries and corn-lands
and forests; the black race were their servants, and
the good men followed slowly, if they followed at all
the " almighty dollar." They could talk fondly of mon-
archies, and almost lovingly of French Henrietta Maria —
for them heraldry had a charm. Yet withal these
patriarchs ate not the br >.d of idleness ; — the father
watched his maize- fields ^.-d cotton-blooms, the young
men took their guns into the forest, or drew the seines
of their negro fishermen, while the ladies hovered between
memories of the old country and enthusiastic patriotism *
and amid all quietly governed the household and the
** people."

The descendants of good Friend Penn and my Lord
Baltimore could not exactly settle the boundaries of their
estates ; a rather weighty matter seeing that the
properties together embraced an area equal to England
and Wales ; so they sent over two commissioners to
survey the ground and fix lines of division. Hence
sprung into existence "Mason and Dixon's line," the
acknowledged boundary between the two States of
Maryland and Pennsylvania ; yet further it became the
dividing line between free soil and slave soil. That line has
now been washed out in blood. It is but ten years ago

rough the
waters of
t a race,
10 seemed
3uses and
Maryland,
. North-
iiurrying ;
; here on
xid resting.
3om-lands
^ants, and
\red a.t all
ly of mon-
ba Maria —
ihal these
the father
the young
the seines
id between
atriotism i
i and the

my Lord

les of their

that the

England

doners to

Hence

me," the

tates of

Icame the

,t line has

rears ago

sinc^ tlio Clovcrnor'^; dnnglitor in Virginia, pleaded with
tears for the life of old John Brown, but in vain ; tbo
Southcriicrs clamoured for his life and the North looked
coldly on. In a little while a change came. There was
no apathy now on the part of the North. By Harper's
Ferry flowed and flowed again the tide of strife. The
mounds of Gettysburg, the earthworks of Antietam, the
dc solatcd Shenandoah, with Richmond's leagues of ruins,
prove how earnest and resolute were the contending
foemen. The conacieuce of the North was roused to
action, and its blood to fever-heat; and then neither
woman's pleadings, nor rifle and bayonet couhT save the
life of slavedom, or win a respite for the empn ( whoso
comer-stone it was. Well might th^ negro soldiery and
their northern comrades sing round their camp-fires and
when moving to the battle,

John Ih-owii's body liev a-mouldering in the grave,
But his soul is inarching on.

There is but a step *' from the sublime to the
ridiculous," fi'om the exalted to the common-place. Our
reverie is broken in upon by a boy, who comes to us in
the cars as a vender of chess-men, made from vegetable
ivory grown in some Mammoth. Grove or Yo-Semite
valley, and wrought into the similitude of pawn and
knight by Pennsylvanian carvers. Their cunning was
learnt, perchance, in Swiss 'Chalet' or Norwegian 'Hoff.'
Anyhow, the fingers which have fashioned out of the
hard beech, fans for the ladies of Geneva, and angels and
apostles for pulpits in the valleys of Sulitelma, take
kindly enough to the hard white nuts from California, . ,

The train stops and we are at Baltimore. First
impressions are not favourable. The city stands upon
sloping hills much in the position of old world Dougias

or St. Helier. Its authorities would do well to take a
lesson from the Paris ** Board of Works" in the matter of
drains. Probably no city in the world is so well drained
as the French metropolis, whose conduits and subways
you might navigate in a boat for miles ; the same cannot
be said of Baltimore, open gutters emit anything but
wholesome smells under the fierce sun of " dog days."
Right up to wharfs on the Chesapeake and Patapscot come
large sea-going ships. The Bremen r'ne of steamers
after calling at Norfolk, Virginia, come ur, here. The
emigrants which they bring are sent inland to the West,
orer the AUeghanies, via Baltimore and Ohio Railway.
The Chesapeake abounds with oysters and terrapin, which
are famous not only in the epicurean cities of the North,
but also in London, in Paris and in St. Petersburg.
All along the water side are packing-sheds for the oyster
trade, and millions ^/ refuse shells are scattered on the
ground.

Far inland stretch the waters of the bay, and nervous
people would cringe as they cioss them on the railway
bridges. These constructions, p&xtly on piles and partly
on piers, might be claiTned by American engineers as
wooden svsjpension bridges, for the very bends even are
formed from planks of timber. Baltimore-street is the
Broadway of the Regent City. Great is its bustle and
traffic. "Our trade was with the South, and conse-
quently our sympathies were with the South," said a
merchant to me, and he went on to say " down here we
are all Democrats and haters of the Republican party,"
Baltimore has been called the City of Monuments, but
though its monuments are beautiful they are only two in
number. The North Point one is a fine pedestal of
granite, from which shoots up a spiral column raised in
memory of "1814"; while the other is of more

nervous

meers as

pretentious dimensions, "Washington monument is
somewhat like ** The Monument" in London, but much
more beautiful. From a large square basement rises a
long shaft 100 feet high or more, of purest white marble.
You may mount to its summit, and look down upon the
city. This great work was subaci ibed for by the State
of Maryland. Catholicism is not supreme in the city, for
the Wesleyans are also strong and numerous, and a
little temple has just been raised by Northern-men for
Congregational worship.

Away from the rattle of Baltimore-street is the region
of villas and houses of the rich ; and very nico they look,
built of bright red brick with window-sills and steps of
white marble. These steps are honored beyond all other
steps in the world, for seated upon them the fair ladies
of Baltimore receive their visitors on summer evenings.
The purple flowers of the morning-glory hang over from
the garden-wall hard by, and as the breeze springs up
and comes landward to temper the noon-day heat into
evening coolness, out come the fair daughters of Mary-
land ; visitors and hostess are attired in y^hite, and flit
about without hat or bonnet as we English do in our
gardens in July, The scene reminds us of another
hemisphere, where cur Australian friends pic-nic under
the gum-trees ; and still further away, we are carried
back to the soft Grecian clime, when Plato and his
disciples walked in the groves of Academae. Beyond
the city stand the white cabins of the negroes — freemen
who cultivate their little corn-patches and flower-beds, for
they are no longer slaves.

"We are bound half-a-day's journey westward to see a
great sight. Midway on our journey we come upon
piles of ruins; they are the monuments of flood. Here

;

stood a dozen fiiotorios for cotton, woollen andiron —
built along the Patapscot, apparently safely secured from
freshets by strong outer and inner river-walls of solid
masonry, 15 feet thick. The terrible flood of August,
18G8, came and swept them all away, mill and bulwark ; of
Elicot's mills only ruins remain.

'Novi w o pass through a tunnel and along a gorge in
the mountains — Maryland Heights and John Brown's
cliffs are frowning aboveJ us, and close at hand is Point of
Eocks. Here amid scenery wonderfully wild and sublime,
from the north the turbulent Potomac pours through a
gorge in the Blue Ridge, while to the south-west, the
Patapscot bursts the granite bands of the Alleghanies, as
the Missouri rolls its floods through the *' Gates of the
Rocky Mountains." Below is Harper's Ferry, the scene
of John Brown's attempt to free the slaves. For this he
died a martyr, but from the ashes of such men '* spring
an hundred-fold." The enthusiastic free-soilor, who had
won lav;vels in "bleeding Kansas," and death on a
Virginian scaffold, now sleeps in a quiet grave at Elva
in freedom-loving Vermont ; but the heaven-consecrated
principle of liberty to the slave, for whicL he died, is not
likely to slumber again in Free America.

The name of Stonewall Jackson was a household word
on both sides of the Ferry during the war-times. You
know what was Tilly's beau-ideal of an army 1 It was to
be composed of many units, each unit a '' ragged soldier
and a bright musket." You could have seen this spectacle
to soiTOwful, perfection, when the poor, hungry, ragged
yet lion-hearted Confederates entered Maryland through
these gorges on their way into Pennsylvania, to fight the
battle of Gettysburg. Gettysburg it the mionument of
war across the northern line, southward their number is
legion. The Lieutenant Governor of Connecticut told

■.'■Mjwu* lumi 1

SSSm

me that ho was on the field of conflict soon after t^'»
battle. Heart-rending were the scenes he describe
For the slain they could scarcely provide burial, sa
covering the bodies with a sprinkling of earth ; ya<
sights of all were the hospitals in the woods, which «.
literally become a shambles of human flesh ; the strean.
ran red with blood and was choked with the poor lifelesi
limbs of maimed humanity. "Wo call in our thoughts,
and bidding good-bye to Maryland, cross the river and
enter Virginia.

VIEGINIA.

vjpHE man who discovered Virginia died on a sca£fold;
vb but his spirit of daring yet lives, and is perpetuated
in hundreds of families that bear well-known English
names. Warrenton and Culpepper, Stuart and Lee^
Webster and Washington, Scott and Denman are all dual
names ; looking ono way to England, and the other to
Virginia. We have always had a veneration for
Kaleigh's State, but like Mr. Hepworth Dixon, we shall
find a " New America" in place of the old one of early
historians. Yorktown was in embryo when Captain Smith
was governor, and Poccahontas the guardian-angel of
the settlement. For traces of these days we shall search
in vain, but in lieu of them there is the real Virginia of
times present. The rough anti- Yanks who dwell here in
the towns, who flit about the bars of taverns, and who
handle pistols lovingly as they would the right hand of a
friend, tell of a degenerate national life ; a life which was
inevitably vitiated by slavery. To ubg Mr. Bright's
powerful imagery, '* The slave-empire was as it were a
cradle, rocked under the shadow of the cypress, which
latter has ever been regarded by man as the emblem of
mortality."

Before the war the poor whites of the South
were a very degraded class of citizens. Even the
negroes scorned them, calling them '^ white trash.''
They had become what our younger sons in England would

have degenerated into under similar circumstances in a
few generations. Fortunately there have been outlets
for the latter. They have gone into the army, into the
navy, they have found posts in India ; or have departed
to Australia, to New Zealand, to Canada, or to the gold
fields of California and British Columbia. At home they
would have scorned to labour, and would have looked
down with contempt upon trade. In the South it was
pretty much the same. Labour was looked upon as
reserved only for Yankees and slaves ; the United States'
aimy and navy could absorb but a limited number
of these discontented people. When the Eepublican
party under Lincoln came into power, the Slavery party,
unable to bridle its ambitious passions, took the field,
dragging along with it the planters, who were really
a "very small part of the Southern people.

The neighbouring State is called Kentucky " the dark
and bloody ground," how much more has Virginia earned
this name of sorrow and tears ? For four years it heard
the clang of war-horns and the thunder of artillery. Its
forests were cut down to make breastworks of ch^xxmx de
frise, and to light the camp-fires of the soldiery. In
yonder clearing stood a church which a Eandolf had
built, with nave and aisle, and roof of tiles, like that he
left behind in tho old English village. Had you come
here ten years ago, you would have found congregations
mustering on Sundays ; long lines of horses " hitched"
under the sheds hai-d by, and Sambo driving "de massa's"
family to church. A little later came another scene.
<*De young massas" and "de young missas" hnd gathered
here to hoist the " secession flag," and when from the
old weather-beaten tower fluttered the device of the new
Confederacy, thdir joy knew no bounds. With all the
enthusiasm of Irish who see again their orange banners

waving in the streets of Londonderry or Limerick, did
these gay, chivalrous Southerners greet the emblem o^
a new-born realm. But it was not to be. The church is
now unroofed and desolate ; the blood of these very
young men has drenched their native soil ; these young
women are mourners.

It seems but a little while ago since Confederate
soldiers passed up the Shenandoah, reaping and thrashing
the corn on the march ; but yesterday since Sheridan
swept down the valley like a whirlwind, leaving behind
him a wilderness like Glencoe ; since Stuart's wild
horsemen were charging the Federal lines, and firing
into the railway trains. Armies were shouting and
fighting in grim earnest before Richmond, now all is
deserted, and the trumpet-flower is covering the mounds
of earth with its bright tints. The Southerners were brave
and chivalrous, but they were fighting in a bad cause.
The Northerners were equally patriotic, and had a just
cause. Both antagonists showed the valour and heroism
of Anglo-Saxons. On a hundred fields, beaten oft, yet
gaining ground month by month, the free Puritans bore
down the slave-holding Cavaliers. At Antietam, at Fair
Oaks, at Chancellorsville, at Winchester, on Atlantic
Plains, at Spottsylvania and in the "Wilderness was fought
out the terrible duel. In the Northern Sunday Schools the
children now sing a hymn, the spirit of which nerved the
soldiers of the North. Strong with the rectitude of their
cause, they feared no defeat — success must ultimately be
theirs. Each soldier in the ranks was a freeman, a citi-
zen, and knew full well the value of what he was fighting
for, "When General Burnside came down to the river
before the battle of Fredericksburg, all through the night
his 50,000 Northern soldiers were singing as they
marched, the song of *• "V^ictory at lust."

There are other sights and other memories in Virginia.
A little to the southward is the Natural Bridge, compared
with which, the CoIosgub at Rhodes was a dwarf ; there
ir the Havrk's Nest, a rugged pyramid of rock, by the
side of which the glory of Egyptian Pharos and Pompey's
Pillar wanes and grows dim. Tou cannot stand by the
lonely bum with tL^ rocky arch above your bead, or by
the side of the needle-rock, without feeling how man's
mightiest efforts are overshadowed by the greater works
of creation.

One morning we steamed down the muddy-brown
Potomac on a pilgrimage to the shrine of honoured
Washington. "With the captain of the " Arrow" I was
on capital terms ; he told me that for many years he had
been steward at the "White Ho se, and in that capacity
had assisted in entertaining the ^rince of Wales during
his visit to President Buchanan. 'ith the versatility of
Americans he had changed his occupation and become
owner and captain of the swift little steamer ** Arrow."
With great kindness he pointed out to me the most
interesting landmarks on both sides of the river. When
we were passing a reach in the Potomac near Fredericks-"
burg, he said, " I came down here one night with a
cargo of stores for the Washington Sanitary Commission ;
I was instructed to land them in this cove, and I was
informed that I should find some regiments of Federal
infantry in camp just above. As daylight appeared I
turned the steamer's bow shoreward and ran into the
cove. Suddenly there arose loud cries among the troops
on the bank, •* Stonewall's a-coming," "Jackson's
r -coming" ; and there sure enough in the indistinct light
of dawn we could make out the grey-coated horsemen
dashing into the camp. So sudden was the onset, so
great the terror inspired by the name of the Southern

Virginia.
Dmpared
f; there
c, by the
•ompey's
d by the
id, or by
)w man's
er works

ly-brown
bonoured
w" I was
rs he had
3 capacity
3S during
satility of
d become
* Arrow."
the most
p. When
•edericks"
it with a
imission ;
md I was
)f Federal
Dpeared I
into the
ihe troops
Jackson's
linct light
horsemen
onset, BO
Southern

leader, that the soldiers did not dream of fighting; the
Georgian swordsmen took 700 prisoners and drove them
away before them like sheep in the face of thousands of
Federal infantry. As my bout was unarmed I pushed
her off into the strei.m until the skirmish was over and
the camp-v isitors gone."

In the woods ou the Virginian side of the river stands
a pillared hall, known hs "Arlington Heights." This
was General Lee's residence before the war. I believe
that he inherited mansion and property from his father-
in-law, Custis. The General had a large tract of land
under cultivation, and kept a staff of 700 negroes. These
men, though slaves under the old regime, were well
treated, and will give " de massa Lee" a good word now
that they are freemen. An incident like this casts a
gleam of light over the otherwise dark picture of slavery.
There is now a freedman's farm upon a part of the
Arlington Estate ; in another corner of it there is a
soldiers' cemetery ; its long lines of white headstones
constituting one of the saddest memorials of the war.

I never heard the name of General Lee mentioned
except in terms of great respect by both Northern and
Southern men. A gentleman of South Carolina, who had
fought under the General all through the v xr, spoke
of him to me almost affectionately. Our "commander"
said he " was very quiet and retiring, and yet was gifted
with excellent judgment. Not one of his oflScers was
jealous of him, and when he exposed himself to danger,
as he often did ou the battle-field, one and all would
beseech him to go to the rear and let them do the
fighting."

When the Confederate army of Virginia surrendered to
Graat, the Northern General performed an act of great

magnanimity. With a delicacy of feeling rarely tc be

found, he avoided appearing in person to receive the

token of submission from his old fellow-officer, and thns

spared his brave foeman the pain of such a scene.

Every one has heard the story how General Jackson

gained his title of Stonewall. On the field of Bull Run

the Southern troops were wavering, when an officer came

up from the General's post, and said, ** There is Jackson

standing like a stonewall." Frora that hour it became a

designation far more famous than that of official rank.

His prowess and 'iitrepidity were known on both sides of

the line. Wher. he swoop'd down on Harper's Ferry and

captured the Federal garrison there, he was surprised

to hear himself cheered by his foemen-prisoners ; so not

knowing any other means of expressing his feeling, he

ordered double rations to be served out to the cheerers.

His death came upon the Confederacy as a great sorrow,

and was mourned even as the fall of Hampden was by

the Puritan soldiery. The old world has boasted much

of its military commanders, and points to Gustavus of

Sweden, to Havelock and Campbell in India, to Cromwell

in England, and the rivals of Waterloo^ as its names of

fame ; yet we hesitate not to add to the roll of honour

the deeds of Lee and Grant, Jackson and Sherman,

Sheridan, Stuart and Rosecrans. Like the captains in

the ancient ship-race, they take the prize with equal

prow,

MOUNT VERNON.

The desire of the wanderer's heart is granted to-day.

After roaming a continent the pilgrim has reached the

shrine. It is saured to Washington and to American

liberty. Silent and deserted now is the home of him who

while he lived was ** first in peace, first in war, and first

in the hearts of his countrymen." Mossy with age, and

untcDaiitcd prive by myself and companions, is the little
wooden pier upon which we land for Mount Vernon,
Passing up through the thick woods you hear the piping
of the mocking-bird, the plaint of the katy-did, and the
softened scream of the tink-a-tauks. You almost expect
to see a pair of luminous eyes, flanked by antlors, peering
out from the thicket. But the expectation is vain. The
deer have all been scared away from these woods by
blazing camp-fires, or they have been shot to supply a
soldier's larder.

On the slope of the hill we come upon Washington's
grave, over which has been reared a simple porch or
vestibule of brick. Through an open railing in front you
look in upon the marble sarcophagus, on which is
recorded the hero's name. The figm-e of an eagle with
outstretched wings has been carved on the slab, but some
Vandal has broken off one of the claws of the bird. Higher
up stands the mansion, a frame-house of very plain and
simple architecture, stuccoed outside so as to imitate
stone-work. The situation has been as carefully chosen
as that of Abbotsford. Unlike the bleak hills which Sir
Walter laboured to plant with trees, the district round
here has timber enough and to spare. At Mount Vernon
it will be part of the work of a life, not to create but to
diminish the growth of forest-trees. When in process
of time the country becomes again settled, and the land
more amenable to cultivation, you will have to look long
for a bonnier home than this. Up some narrow steps we
found our way into the great man's bedroom. There
is a similarity between this chamber and that one at
Stratford in which Shakespeare first saw the light. Both
have the same desolate look, the same lack of furniture
and adornment.

At tho risk of being thought tpdions by some re^'ders
I will mention a few relics which remein in chis cabinet-
mansion of tho nation, their presence serving to remind
us of the once busy life at Mount Vernon. In the entrance-
hall hangs '^ trophy from the France of the Eevolution, the
key of the . istile presented to Washington by La Fayette.
The dining-room has a mournful look, and the feeling of
gloom is deepened by the sight of memorials of its one-
time occupants strewn about. There is a harpsichord
brought in olden time from over the aea, as a wedding
present from the General to his adopted daughte ', Miss
Custis. It is curious to decipher the names of its makers
Longman and Broderip, and to know that even then,
musical instruments were elaborated in London, at 26,
Cheapside, and 4, Haymarket, by artists as eminent in
their day as CoUard and Broadwood. I asked one of our
company, a young American lady, to play upon the old
keyboard some song of her country, but on her trying
it, we found the strings to be broken, " its soul of music"
was fled ; it was as lifeless as the fabled harp in Tara's
Halls. Turn aside for a moment and examine the marble
mantel-piece. It was carved in Italy 80 or 90 years ago,
and represents three scenes of ancient country-life on the
Amo. Tho group of cattle in the centre might have
been modell ,d after Rosa Bonheur ; equally true to life
are its companion scenes of "oxen ploughing,'' and a
" vintage-festival." This work of art was a present from
an attachedpel^sonal friend to Washington. Pistol-holsters
and fragments of camp-equipage remind us of campaigns
and military achievements. From the old negro in
attendance you may purchase photographs of mansion
and tomb.

The gardens in rear of the house are sadly neglected
now. The flower-beds wore once dexined by borders of

box, now they are fortified by hedges or walls of it.
From the white-haired negro-gardener I obtained some
slips of geraniums to send to England. The Americans
of our party seemed surprised that an Englishman should
manifest any interest in the scene ; the little act of taking
the geranium-slips opened their hearts to me at once.
One young fellow brought some walnuts which he had
gathered from a tree near the tomb, for me to plant in
" old England" he said, and a lady gave me some seeds
of the wild cypress to train up my porch at home.
Another informed me that her husband was a Yorkshire-
man ; while a real Yankee youth, after telling mo that
his father hailed from the same county, concluded an
enumeration of his parent's peculiarities by saying "He
liked his roast beef." Before the time came to leave,
several of those new-found acquaintances had offered me
the hospitality of their homes, if, as they said, "you
should happen to come our way in your rambles."

The property of Mount Vernon was purchased for the
nation by the ladies of America. Their agent Mr. Herbc . t
has charge of it, and the premises are kept from going
absolutely to decay with money from a small sustentation
fund. The founder's family in former times possessed
large tracts of land which stretched back to the Bichmond
road, and had a frontage of some miles to the river.
Some large trees still mark the boundary between the
woods of the Washington-estate and those of the adjoining
proprietor. "Washington himself cultivated portions of
his estate, and employed 1000 negro-slaves. Colonel
John Washington, a direct descendant, was killed while
serving in the Confederate army ; but other offshoot
families still live in Eastern Virginia ; so the family name
will be perpetuated, and may be again honourably known
in American history.

Mount Vernon was respected by both armies during the
war, though the tide of conflict rolled very near it some-
times. On one occasion a German Colonel and his officers
rode up from camp to pay a visit to the lonely house.
Not being an American by birth, the Colonel was disposed
to deface and destroy certain landmarks of the place, in
defiance of Mr. Herbert's protests. It so happened that
a party of Confederate troopers galloped up on a morning-
visit to the grave, and hearing from the curator of the
work of destruction going on at the house, they deter-
nJned to put in an appearance also. They met the-
Tederals face to face. "This is no place for fighting"
said they, but taking the Vandal German aside, the fiery
Virginian captain, single-handed, thrashed him soundly ;
the soldiers of both flags looking on the while, and then
the Southerners mounted and rode away. The church
three miles away in the woods, which Washington
attended when living, was destroyed in the war.

Returning again to the knoll in front of the mansion, I
let my eyes wander over the beautiful landscape around.
Beneath me stretched a sea of gi'een leaves down to the
water's edge, anc beyond the rivei" on the Maryland side,
forest-trees only, in unbroken rank, met the view. Near
the landing-pier, the river makes a sweep or reach to the
south, while further away its mud-banks are covered
with flocks of wild-fowl. On these deltas of mud and
Band grows an aquatic plant, which has been called the
wild celery, and to dive for its milk-white roots hither
come millions of scarlet-hooded birds, whose blue-white
backs mark them as that species so dear to epicures — the
famous canvas-backed duck. A whistle is heard behind
the point, and soon my old friend the "Arrow" is
rounding to and signalling us to come on board. Thus

uring the
' it some-
is officers
ly house.
1 dispoaed

place, in
lened that
morning-
;or of the
ley deter-
7 met tho

fighting"
, the fiery
L soundly ;

and then
he church
ashington
r.

mansion, I
36 around.
)wn to the
;rland side,
iew. Near
each to the
e covered
f mud and
called the
3ots hither
blue-white
cures — the
ird behind
Arrow" is
urd. Thus

ends my day at Mount Vernon, a day long to be
remembered.

Going up stream, we pass fortifications on the
Maryland side. Fort Foot, a new battery is constructed
on a bluff, and is to be mounted with 15in. Dahlgreen
guns : Fort Washington is an old work and was badly
used by the English ships in 1812. It >70uld soon crumble
away under the guns of an iron-clad. On the Virginian
side stands the town of Alexandria, It was in this place
that blood was first shed between North and South,
Lieutenant-Colonel EUes worth in the Federal sorvice was
passing up the street when he noticed a flag of new
device flying from the top of a house ; he ascended to the
roof to take it down, and on reaching the door again he
was shot down in cold blood. Blood once spilt, nothing
could avenge but the letting out of rivers of blood.

i !

THE E.'iGLE'S NEST.

Regions Caesar never knew,

Thy posterity shall sway,
"Where his Eagles never flew,

Reign invincible as they.

^'30 ATIONS have always been fond of an eagle-emblem.
(?5*' Romans fought under it, Russians, Austrians and
French carry it on their banners. But it is in America
that the royal bird seems to have widest range and most
undisturbed dominion. He is freely handled in speech
by citizen orators, but they might safely let him alone ;
they cannot add to his greatness, the secret of which is
liberty. I arrived at the head-quarters of the American
eagle at sun -rise, and went first to look on a dazzling
white eyrie in which he enthrones himself in the national
Capitol. Such a sight on the Capitol-hill was to be
remembered for a life-time. Up rose the day-star from
his ocean-bed, smiling faintly on the land, as he chased
away the gloom of night and the curtains of fog. Then
he mounted higher on his throne; and at last looked down
with eye undimmed tmd face unclouded upon the world
below. Like a great -'mountain of light," lay the mass
of marble on the hill, so unique the material, so perfect
the design, that the wanderer feels at once that this is
the chef d'oBiwre of American architecture. Surely there

/ ■ : :^ ■

MMMMIiBMIIiMiaiia

cannot have been American hurry here; Its builders
must have wrought in the spirit of old Cathedral-rearers.
As Chaucer says, —

There is an workman

That can bothe worken wel and hastilie ;

This must be done at loasure parfaitly.

To-day the eagle folds his wings in peace, — from his
eyrie he watches his emissaries throughout the world.
Down Southward, his likeness is the soldier's star ; — he
mounts guard over the white tents of Camp Douglas,
looking down upon Mormon life. He rules in revenue-
boats and custom-houses in every sea-port, he emblazons
the mariner's flag in the waters of China and far away
Japan, and the banner which droops languidly in Naples
Bay, bears also his sign. Those who study art in ruined
temples at liome, and those who seek dollars in foggy
London, all look for his countenance and favour. They
will find it close at hand, — over Consular posts presides
the lordly bird, along with the flag of mystic stars and
motto of strength, **E pluribus unum " A peaceful bird
generally, he shows h^ak and claw when he is aroused.
Once upon a time, aided by his cousins of lilied France,
he chased a British Lion right valiantly, and more recently
he has driven out single-handed, the legions of the
Palmetto flag. The erne or white-headed eagle is the
bird which furnishes a symbol for America's flag. Its
instincts are cruel, and on this account Franklin regretted
that it should have been chosen as the emblem of his
country. Now and then it may be seen sailing through
the rainbow- sprays of Niagara on its way from northern
feeding-grounds.

As the sun rises higher and higher towards his zenith
he seems to strike fire against these sparkling walls of
marble. The sky overhead is of cerulean blue, so much

flash and gleam dazzles and wearies the cyo. I remember
a lady saying that her little daughter's eyes were blue
from being born at Rome, and living under an Italian
sky : — if so, the good folks at Washington should have
blue eyes, but we look in vain for this characteristic of
Saxon race in America. We have not only Italian skies
but also tropical heat, heat so excessive and overpowering,
that a son of foggy England is glad to seek refuge under
the Capitol dome. Here is a circular picture-gallery.
Some of the "dramatis personae" on the walls are
countrymen of mine, not seen in moments of victory, but
generally in the plight of thfi " bruised reed." I was
quite prepared for this, for more than one American
friend had foretold the sight of my own folks on t?ie
frescoes; — a goodly show in the eyes of Republicans.
Some of them are neutral scenes, as for instance, " The
landing of Columbus," "The Pilgrims embarking at
Delft-haven," and the " Baptism of Poccabontas." I have
previously mentioned the pictures representing the
"Surrender of Burgoyne at Saratoga," and the "Declar-
ation of Independence at Philadelphia." There are - ;vo
others, both of a military type, "General Washington
resigning his commission to Congress," and the
" Surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown."

The finest picture, as a work of art, is ne portraying
the "Discovery of the Mississippi by De Soto,. May
1541.' The discoverer himself, clad as a cavalier of
olden time, is mounted on a grey horse ; — behind him
are borne two curious banners of pink, purple and blue.
His foUowtrs include a motley group of horsemen,
Moorish and Portugese ; and a small company of infantry
who have managed to drag through forest and swamp a
single brass cannon. In the back-ground rests an iron-
boand chest foi powder or treasure ; perhaps the dis-

yr-i^^

coverers hope to expend the powde' and to fill their
camp-chest with treasure from the new-found regions.
Soldiers are plant^jg in the ground a rude cross of pine
trees, on the top of which is a figure or image of the
Virgin ; and two monks are busy at work consecrating
it, one brother kneeling down and reading from a book,
the other swinging near it a censer of incence. In the
foreground appears the river, with canoes upon its waters
and wigwams fringing its banks. Gazing upon the white
men stand Indians — chiefs, women, and "medicine
men," — but upon their inscrutable faces you read no sign.
Their acts, however, are friendly, for at De Soto's feet
lies a peace-offering of the best gifts the red men have, —
Indian corn and purple grapes, water-lilies and wild
Bwans, bundles of arrows and a peace-pipe. The
tableau has been the conception of a splendid genius,
and even beyond its grandeur, there lies 1.1 it a deep
field of suggestion for further thought. Far above, the
Rotunda-dome is painted with allegorical figures, and
round them runs a ribbon of strength and union,
" E pluribus unum," — ** out of many, one."

Along corridors, where the foot steps over arabesques
in Minton tiles, and diamond shapes in marble, we gain
the Supreme Court. Over the chair of the Chief Justice
rests a gilt eagle with outspread wings, and fronting
him are marble statues of Jay, Ellesworth, Butledge and
Marshall, lights of the legal world who have passed
away. They no longer expound the statutes of the realm,
but are themselves monuments, statues to that law.
The Senate-chamber is a noble room, everything about
it massive and richly fashioner? . The walls are painted
in panels, relieved with buff and gold, and veined sienna
marble. Bouquets of flowers and clusters of fruit pictured
on an ornamental roof of glass, enrich a scene upon

which the softened light gleams down, not taking its
cast from figures of evangelist and angel, but from
b! endings of fruit and flower. With the prompting of
human nature which constrains us to sit for a moment
upon a royal throne in England, we snatch, in passing, a
similar tribute from the Chair of the Vice-president of
the United States. In the House of Representatives,
Mr. Speaker's chair is canopied by two Union flags. In
both Houses one is surprised to detect a close, sickly
smell of tobacco, the rich pile carpets being more or less
impregnated with the juice of the favourite weed. An
antidote is ^'.ovided by the public ^ easury, as I hear
a Senator jur party explaining to a lady-friend, that
the floor oi the House puts on new broadcloth every
year.

I was often asked by Americans what I thought of
their Parliament Halls at Washington ? I thought them
to be noble in conception and workmanship ; perhaps a
cornoisseur would say that the roofs are so massive and
gorgeous as to dwarf the interior, and produce an effect
not intended, of heaviness and g.oom. In the Eotunda
is placed a full- sized statue, in white marble, of Lincoln,
which perpetuates with great truthfulness, the mild yet
firm countenance of the murdered President. Turning
into the library of Congress, and looking from an open
window, I saw as from an elevated balcony, below, like a
map unrolled, <'the city of magnificent distances."
Beyond it, a widening plain, with a gleam of the Potomac,
and far away the forest-lands of Marylaiul and Virginia.
As a gentle breeze came sweeping inland from the Atlantic,
I could not but think how emblematic ii was of that wider
breeze of power, which, from this Sepublican Metropolis,
sweeps to the ends of American Empire.

Washington, as a city, pales before its commercial
rivals, but as the centre of public buildings it is
unequalled and unique. I wandered for hours about its
Patent-office, looking at models of everything which it
has entered man's brain to conceive. Skates, ships,
sewing-machines, looms, bridges, harness, huts, railway
carriages, steam-engines, and Mississippi steamboats of
fifty years ago, are all represented here by models. The
Blue Corridor is especially interesting and handsome ;
here in glass cases are shown all presents from Europe
and the East, which the Chief Magistrater of the United
States have in turn received. The Post Office is a fine
building, and the Treasury still finer. It is large and
spacious already, but portico and corridor are still rising
in interminable rank to add to its size and beauty. It is
one of America's "peculiar institutions" to provide
employment for numbers of female clerks in the public
offices at the Capitol. Entering the Treasury I was
somewhat hurt by the incivility and surliness of the
doorkeepers, but penetrating beyond them I found an old
gentleman who by his kindness to me, more than
redeemed the national character for courtesy. Business
hours were over, but he gratified my whim by sending
to the treasury-keepers for some new greenbacks for mo
to keep as curiosities. For one who cannot study
American national history as depicted in the frescoes of
the Rotunda, American Bank-notes will supply a faithful
and fac-simile gallery of illustration. " The Pilgrim's
Landing," ** De Soto's Discovery," and many other scenes
are engraved upon their National Bank scrip ; as the note
varies in amount, so the picture stamped upon it varies
also. An Englishman, George Houseman Thomas, ren-
dered able service to America by the drawings which he
supplied for these highly-finished vignettes. I sat for

)mmercial
mgs it is
3 about its
rr which it
ies, ships,
fcs, railway
imboats of
dels. The
bandsome ;
Dm Europe
the United
;e is a fine
s large and
) still rising
luty. It is
to provide
the public
ksury I was
ness of the
bund an old
more than
, Business
by sending
)acks for ma
bunofc study
} frescoes of
aly a faithful
le Pilgrim's
other scenes
; as the note
)on it varies
i'homas, ren-
igs which he
I sat for

awhile in La Fa3"ette Square, under the shade of leafy
trees. It is really an enclosed garden in front of the
White House, open to the public. Times have changed
wonderfully since the French Marquis helped the
Americans to gain their Independence. The Government
offices close early in the afternoon and at half-past three,
throngs of male and female employe's pass through La
Fayette Square on their way home.

Of course I looked in at the White House, obtaining a
peep at its rooms of State, and best of all, an interview
with the man who was its guest for the time. I paid my
visit in the evening. No pomp or ceremony was there
to delay an entrance. A single "boy in blue" stood
leaning on his rifle at the outer door, and inside a
comrade mounted guard before the President's room.
Mr. Johnson was alone in his bureau when I was
admitted, and remained standing by his desk during the
interview. After a few minutes chat on America and
England, and mutual expressions of good*will, the great
man shook hands and bid me good bye. The simplicity
of manners between the American people and their Chief
Magistrate, and the readiness of access which they find
to his presence, stand out in strong relief, as contrasted
with the cumbersome etiquette to be observed at royal
receptions in England. Mr. Johnson was known in
Europe as a man of indomitable courage, courage almost
verging on obstinacy. I found him grave and thoughtful,
evidently possessed of immense physical power, and
endowed with great calibre of mind. I left his presence
with this couplet running in my head, —

"It is excellent to have a giant's strength,
But it is tyrannous to use it like a giant."

History will record that Mr. Lincoln's successor used hii
powers in thwarting the wishes of the people, — that the

tenor of his administration was to incline backward the
dial of reconciliation and progress. Those who now visit
the White House will find the " obstructor" gone, and
Grant, the soldier, reigning in his stead.

During the election times, Grant was the idol of the
Republican party. A gentleman of Ehode Island told
me that the favourite General was really looked upon as
the hope of the nation. Ho had left all his United States'
bonds in his banker's hands with the following instruc-
tions : — " If Mr. Seymour is elected President sell out at
once every doUar's-worth of my scrip, if Grant is the
candidate elect, double the value of my holdings." This
incident bespeaks immense confidence in the wisdom of
the present Chief Magistrate of the United States. I was
on board a steamer when the result of the November
elections was known. The news delighted my American
fellow-passengers. Strong emotion was visible on the
faces of the men, and the joy of the ladies knew no
bounds, — "The Lord be praised" said they, "for giving
us Grant as President." Many Americans lament the
frequent change of President as a misfortune of republican
government. The elections coming bo often, keep the
nation in constant excitement. Throughout the United
States thousands of place-holders advance and retire
with each incoming and outgoing President. With the
Chief Magistrate also rests the appointment of all officers
in the army and navy, subject only to the sanction of
Congress. After all, an Englishman has reason to prefer
in many respects, the constitution of his own country.
Many a thoughtful citizen of the United States has said
to me, — "Do you know, we say amongst ourselves, that,
with nil jber anomalies and faults^ England is the best
govumed country in the world."

uLi

ikward the

now visit

gonOi and

idol of the
[si and told
;ed upon as
lited States'
Qg instmc-
t sell out at
rant is the
ags." This
) wisdom of
ites. I was
) November
ly American
iible on the
es knew no
"for giving

lament the
>f republican
m, keep the

the United
and retire
With the
of all officers
sanction of
son to prefer
wn country,
ites has said

selves, that,
, is the best

It is probable that Washington city may have seen its
palmiest days. The American Empire has wonderfally
widened its boundaries since the days of early Indepen-
dence. Whole territories which were then unknown
and unexploredi are now accurately shown on the maps
of the Government survey. The centre alters with the
circumference geographically, and there is now a desire
that the place of executive Federal power should be
changed from Washington to St. Louis. This generation
may witness the eagle leave its old haunts on the
Potomac, and find itself ensconced on the banks of the
Mississippi. From its new eyrie it will look out, east,
west, north, and 8outh upon the people of whose power it
is symbolical. Its flight will be upward still, cheered by
goodly achievement in the past, to greater deeds in the
future.

While waiting in an ante-room at the White House,
an old gentleman came up and entered into conversation
with me. " Dont forget me in your journal," said he
merrily, when we parted. His memories of England
were those of fifty years ago. When he sailed away from
the land of his birth, he left behind him riot and dissention
among the people. Bands of angry men were in their
ignorance breaking to pieces the machinery which was
soon to become the source of England's wealth. Grime
was rampant and suffering general throughout Great
Britain at the close of the great wars. From danger
and distress at home he turned manfully to brave the
anger of the Atlantic, and after a voyage of forty-five
days, landed in America. Many years of his life had
been spent in mission work in California, when that
State was a centre of wickedness and darkness. Now he
pursues his quiet path of usefulness in the Capitol-city,
like the good Samaritan doing good without heed to

creed. aning respect from all, and kindly greetings
^en from OaLlio sisters of meroy " Ahrays draw
your sword for the Great Captain," sa.d he "jn the
morning sow thy seed, and in the eycmng witiihold not
thv hand."-His unselfish and unseotanan Christianity
seemed to hpring from a similar spirit, as that sentence
which on the page of the printed Bible, reminds us
"MultsB terrioclis linguae, Ooelestibus una."

greetings
ys draw
"in the
.hold not
pistianity
sentence
ninds us

i»

"HANGING GAEDENS."

*Twas a fair scene— a Land more bright
Kever did mortal eye behold !

*♦♦»*♦

And what a wilderness of flowers .'

* * * from all the bowers
And fairest fields of all the year,
The mingled spoil was scattered there.

Lalla Rookh.

ojN olden timej the "hanging-gardens" of Babylon
(5 ranked among the wonders of the world. In
Southern Virginia, and in the sunny Oarolinas, nature
presents the same, on a scale of magnificence that man

annot imitate. Grim weather-beaten forest-trees are
walls and standard-bearers, and the swamps are the
hot-beds from which spring up nature's conservatories.
The artizan of Cashmere never mingled a richer dye than
the rose-blooms of North Carolina, never edgetc Sultana's
shawl with aught so " fairy fine," so virgin white, as the
racemes of Virginia's fringe-tree. Arras-weavers in the
Netherlands could never fabricate the pattern which
starts into life, when the southern sun throws a shuttle
of tropic-growth across the exhalations of the swamps.

Tendrils of wild vine clasp the lichen-covered branches,
and curtains of Spanish moss hang down in folds of grey.
Wild cypress is growing here, its dark yew-green leaves
spotted with scarlet berries ; there lignumvitse, with
flat pine-like sprays merged into each other as the twiga

in a Boman fasces. Here grows the spiny cactuSi the
feathered Java palm, and the cockscomb with its gorgeous
velvety flowers. From the wild orange you will look in
vain for fruit, but there are peppers red and peppers green;
with pomegranates fruit-bearing and flowerless, and
flower bearing and fruitless ; in the one case sight is
gladdened by the twin-flowers of red, in the other, taste
is pleased with golden fruit in shape like a poppy-head.
The trumpet-flower climbs over mould-mounds, flecking
the'u with scarlet, and the creeping ash, bright with
clusters of lilac blooms, runs by its side. Coral honey-
suckle and morning-glory hang as veils before the
mysteries of the inner swamp, where flourishes the
jessamine, flaunting its yellow poison-flowers. In
Southern Carolina are j aponicas, whose lustrous waxen
discs of red and white gleam like scarlet and ermine of
a marquis's robe. Thousands of pink and snowy roses
cluster on the scentless sweet-briar, and the woods are
spangled with running yellow roses, each one a tiny
"field of cloth of gold."

Among leafy banks nestles the wild blue violet ; in its
wayside home it is decked with bonnie flowers, but try to
cultivate it, and no flowers will grow I Underfoot in
spring are crocuses, pansies, and primroses ; but you
search in vain in the New World for the daisy which
gems our English pastures, and the heather-bells of
Scottish song. A philosopher might infer that the daisy
is given to England and the heath to Scotland to comfort
us for the lack of brighter blooms. Pillar-roses festoon
the verandahs of the planters, and tea-roses bloom in their j
gardens all the year round, when we in England are
wrapped in fog and clothed in frieze, when such a thing
as a rose-petal is to be seen only in a hot-house. Nature
has granted compensation to us Islanders. In lieu of the

cactuBy the
ts gorgeous
will look in
pars green ;
srless, and
iiHe sight is
other, taste
oppy-head.
is, flecking
)right with
oral honey-
before the
urishes the
Qwers. In
urous waxen
1 ermine of
anowy roses
3 woods are
one a tiny

riolet; in its
rs, but try to
Jnderfoot in
es ; but you
daisy which
her-bells of
bat the daisy
id to comfort
roses festoon
loom in their
Englimd are
such a thing
(use. Nature
Inlieuoftbe

roae-blnsh, it has endowed English women in perpetuity
with a rose-bloom on their cheeks.

Oleanders with single flowers grow here as luxuriantly
as on Italian ruins, and rhododendrons scatter their
blossoms round. All over the South grow fuchsias,
sometimes climbing, sometimes erect, but always bending
gracefully their heads of bell-shaped flowers ; south of
the Amazon, their berries are eaten by the people and
esteemed a delicacy. Golden rod, the sun-flower, and
sumach of the stag's hoi*n and poison-vine varieties,
(closely allied to the old shrub of Venetian commerce,)
tint the glades with gold and brown from north to south,
from east to west on this great continent*

Taking a brevet rank among shrubs, comes the palmetto
tree with its cabbage-like head ; split up its green leaves
and bleach them, and you may make of them fans, or
weave the fibre into palmetto hats ; while from its centre
tip you may draw an edible morsel. But the glory of it
is that it ranks as the emblem of a State. Lily, rose,
and maple are not more the emblems of France, England,
and Canada, than is palmetto of South Carolina.

"We have heard how the magnolia has been cultivated
fbr 1,200 years in China ; travellers have told us how it
blooms on the Himalayas, ** the mountains when it is in
blossom appearing as if sprinkled with snow." Yet one
thinks it can no where be found in greater perfection than
in the groves of South Carolina, where it bears flowers
larger than a queen's crown ; so luscious in smell that
their pfesence will scent a large room, and by their very
richness become sickly and overpowering. In place of
Highland heath and Cornish broom there is the kalmia.
Dr. Hooker has told us of a sight on the Indian mountains,
of slopes covered with rose-coloured flowers ; yet we think
the scene will be matched by "spurs ofthe AlleghanieB,'i

glowing each summer with the bell-shaped blooms of the
icalmia. Azaleas abound from Canada to the South. In
the New World the narcotic properties of the shrub prove
how closely it keeps true to the traditions of the Old.
When Xenophon's soldiers marched through southern
Poland on their famous retreat in Asia, they became
■tupified from eating wild honey which the bees had
gathered from azalea-blooms ; so also, on the banks of the
Savannah, its leaves and honied sweets are poisonous.
In Louisiana Frenchmen called it chevrefeuille d/roitf or
upright honeysuckle from its smell ; what it loses in
usefulness it gains in beauty, when seen " clothing the
mountains with a robe of living scarlet."

The warrior of the gardens is the ** Spanish bayonet,"
which perhaps learnt the art of self-defence in Mexico in
beating back Cortes and his soldiers. The Spaniards are
gone, but it still grows armed cop d jpie and will boldly
pierce with its lance any intruder, in spite of its peaceful
front of creamy flowers.

Anong Druid oaks and sempiternal cedars stands the
primate of the woods. Once in three generations does
the century-plant burst into flower. What curious
changes would the advent ofits pale cream-crowns record I
A continent laid open to the Old World by a Genoese
mariner, — a tide of ava/nt'cowrewrs settling in its forests
— a new republic springing into life, — and two hostile
confederations fused into one. Watchman, what of the
night I we might say. What will be the cry when another
centenary comes round? To those of little faith the question
would be as difficult as Hamlet's ** to be or not to be,"
but to ev&ry American, and to Englibhmen of strong
faith, the future is plain as an open book. We read
therein, the Saxon race will be ruling the world, or rather,
will have taught the world's peopios to rule themselveB.

>omsofthe
South. In
arub prove
if the Old.
ti southern
ey became
) bees had
tanks of the
poisonous.
le droit, or
it loses in
Lothing the

1 bayonet,"
n Mexico in
)aniards are
will boldly
its peaceful

i stands the
rations does
[lat curious
(wns record I
y a Genoese
in its forests
two hostile
what of the
^hen another
the question
p not to be,"
m of strong
, We read
Id, or rather,
themselves.

LIFE IN THE WOODS.

gylDE by side with "hanging-gardens" are aviary,
^ menagerie, and aquarium. It was impossible for a
traveller on the wing to take more than a glance at each
scene, but in the far north and sunny south I found
naturalist friends who told me, in conversation, tales of
forest experience which they had spent years in gathering.
The gentleman who became my instructor in Southern
ornithology and fauna, was countryman and countyman
of mine, and had long been settled in South Carolina.
His home was in the city of Charleston, but he seemed to
make a second home in the woods as lovingly as Wilson
or Audubon. He was now a thorough son of Carolina.
A year or two ago he came over with his wife on a visit
to England; the very morning after landing in Liverpool,
the good lady urged him to return home. " Oh, let us
go back to the skies of Carolina" was the burden of her
song. It is not possible to have two countries ; the blue
skies and bright sun of an adopted land had become more
attractive than memories of home and childhood-days.

What a crowded orchestra do these southern forests
contain within them I As we walk through arched
cathedrals in the woods, or stand under the blooms of
vine, orchid, and lotus, the air is vocal with song.
Troops of birds of every hue are the singers. What
gaudy little fellows are these red-birds wagging their
heads, — is not yon blue-bird bright as an Italian sky;
and does not this oue's plumage seem to speak of amber
and the pale primrose ? Perched on a bough is the oriole^

cftUed by Marylanders the Baltimore bird, because its
black and yellow feathers resembled in colour the livries
in which the first Lord Baltimore clothed his servants.
A gifted English writer has described the gay-plumed
birds of America as the " opera-singers of creation ;
while our own little sober-suited minstrels are the village
children singing their May songs and their Christmas
carols." We miss the song 'f thrush, blackbird, linrot
and lark, and most of all the sight of our darling robin-
redbreast. The Indian opechee takes its place, only as
a viceroy acts the part and rank of a king.,

In a cache of safety a goldfinch has built its bonnie nest
and is singing its pleasing song. From under kalmias and
rice-grass comes the quail's soft whistle, and the cat-bird
screams alarm and defiance as suE^e or winged intruder
nears its nest. Here stalkp the flamingo. In India and
Jamaica, the natives have given him the title of " soldier-
bird," from the resemblance which his plumage bears to
the scarlet coats of British soldiers, but in America his
colours are orange. At work in the river is the belted
kingfisher. We remember how the Romans gave him the
name of halcyon, becance tradition still older than they,
said that our belted friend built his nest during the days
of calm which came before and after the summer solstice*
In his new- world home it is calm for him all the days of
his sojourn, and when winter comes upon the streams,
he takes wing for the Indies.

Dipping into blooms for honey and floral Bweets the fairy
humming-bird holds his kingly progress, scattering
largess around him in flashing wing and gentle hum. Now
sipping from the petals of the wild lemon, now sunning
its jewelled wings on a myrtle-flower, peeping into purple
fttchsia-bells, or hiding in the pure white f^eal of the lily;
gathering tribute from the sunflower, seeking neotar in

)cause its
le liv<*ries

servants.
,y-plumed

creation ;
;he village
Christinas
ird, linr.ot
ing robia-
56, only as

)onnie nest
[almias and
ihe cat-bird
)d intrudtr
1 India and
if "soldier-
ge bears to
America his
s the belted
;ave him the
than they,
ing the days
ner solstice*
L the days of
ihe streams,

sets the fairy
, scattering
ehum. Now
now sunning
g into purple
a of the lily;
Ing neotar in

the chalice of the rhododendron, or hovering near the
rose-beds, this little bird-sprite wings its way, ever
humming Ariel's song,

Where the bee sucks, there auck I.

Like a geologist hammering the rocks for spoil, the
wood-pecker is tapping tree-crusts all day long. So
earnest his labours, so many the memorial chips he throws
off, that Mexican peons have called him the carjpenter,

Moiiarch of all in song is the mocking-bird. As if to
make amends for his sober plumage and sparrow-like form,
nature has given him a polyglot tongue. He cannot vie
with blue-bird, yellow-bird, and rod-bird in livery, but he
excels them in song. He is quick to loarn, adding to
original song a song of imitation. When this forest
"Reeves" is caged, and sent up into the drawing-rooms
of the North, his value is almost beyond price, for in the
presence of guests he will rattle off song after song ;
whether it be the "Old Hundredth" or "Yankee Doodle,"
is to him a matter of supreme unconcern.

At dusk, comes the whoop of the crane from a solitary
post in the marsh, and the cry of the night-owl is mingled
with the alligator's roar. Bull-frogs chirp, while fire-
flies hum and spangle the darkness with coruscations of
gold and flame. At noo. -day over all, soars the golden
eagle, emblematic of a nation's sovereignty.

It is a great sight to witness a night-hunt in the woods.
How the darkies enjoy themselves I — how true to canine
instincts are New World * Peppers' and * Mustards'! — how
they hasten to pay their respects to Sir " Possum" and
Miss " Coon," as zealously as their cousins at Charlies-
hope would unearth a fox, or bring to bay an otter or a
badger ! A curious animal is the opossum, allied in form
and habits to the kangaroo family. In spite of its hog's
face and monkey's body and tail you will find it good to

iii

eat. Resembling a cat, but larger, is the racoon, a very
sly animal, yet it is sometimes caught and tamed. " Sly
as an opossum," and " cute as a coon," have come to be
proverbs in America.

Young Eingold goes into the woods to hunt wild turkeys,
and when he has bagged his prize, the gobbler, dressed
and cooked, will weigh twenty pounds, and will serve as
delicious eating for a whole company of hungry sports-
men. From the forest comes forth the turkey-buzzard :
he is privileged to strut about the city and eat the offal of
the markets ; his life is as secure as that of the sacred bull
at Benares, and should you be so unfortunate or ignorant
as to kill one, you will have to appease the good citizens*
wrath for the loss of their scavenger by a fine of five
dollars.

Stalking about streams and lagoons which we are
going to explore, is the pelican on fishing- spoil intent.
"What is there for his dinner and the dinner of men-
hunters who also intend to join him in the sweep ? Carp
jump up at the sand-flies, and nibble the roots of "sweet
water-grass" on the banks ; the red-snapper will yield
delicious rose-colored steaks, solid as beef; the sturgeon
will take the place of veal or pork, and the sheep shead, a
black-striped chubby little fish, may also aspire to occupy
a dish on your camp-table. In the mud burrows the
black-fish, and salt-water trout abound on the coast.

We have heard of eyeless fish and musical fish, and here
is found another curiosity, the drum-fish, which really
gives out a sound like a drum faintly beaten. Though
you may have eaten young shark, you will utterly decline
to have any similar acquaintance with devil-fish ; a
planter friend of Mr. Ringold's had fallen into the
clutches of one of the fraternity, the fleshy flabs of the
fish closed in upon his leg and held like anchors. With

m, a very
led. "Sly
ome to be

d turkeys,
r, dressed
11 serve as
ry spcts-
-buzzard :
ihe oflfal of
sacred bull
)r ignorant
id citizens*
ine of five

ih we are
Doil intent,
er of men-
eep ? Carp
3 of "sweet
r will yield
he aturgeon
leepsbead, a
re to occupy
)urrows the
e coast,
sh, and here
yhich really
m. Though
berly decline
levil-fish ; a
en into the
r flabs of the
hors. With

much diflBculty he broke loose from the vice-like grasp of
this ocean-crab. Now and then we may catch sight of a
dolphin, and in spite of its change of color when dying,
we shall be glad to taste it on the table. Swimming in
the waters we recognise by its yellow body and brown
back the terrapin, or fresh-water turtle, the choicest
condiment-morsel for epicurean palates.

Over all these scenes of air, earth, and flood, beautiful
as they are, hangs a cloud of alloy. A pitying spirit
would speak to us as to Peri at the gate of Paradise,
lamenting that suffering and decay should mingle with
the flowerets of this southern Eden. Stretched above
the swamps as a pall of death, is fever; basking on
willow-bank, in creek or fen, is the hideous alligator,
and crawling across the path are rattlesnake and deadly
moccasin. American energy will in time eradicate
alligator and snake, as wolves and bears were exter-
minated in Britain, but whether the peculiarities of
climate will ever b« so far overcome as to banish fever,
is a serious problem which we cannot solve. You
remember how when Basil the ranchgman had described
to Evangeline and her party the glories and delights of
the southern land, he concluded, " Only beware of the
fever, my friends, beware of the fever 1" It is still a
terror from Louisiana to South Carolina. A person seized
with yellow-fever complains of pain in the head and
spine, sickness begins, and if once the black vomit sets
in all hope is over, death ensues in 18 to 30 hours*
Sometimes mortification begins before death, and then
the patient's suflering is excruciating. In a case of this
kind a little girl complained that " rats were gnawing off
her flesh," so terrible was her agony.

GLOAMING IN THE WOODS.

Then wh«n the gloaming comes,
Low in the heather blooms.

<M AM in a land in which grows no heather-bloom, and
(5 where twilight is so short as to render "gloaming"
almost a misnomer. I speak not of eventide, but of the
evening of the year. The Germans called America
" abend-land," or evening-land. The name may be true
in a poetical sense, but not in a practical, for the genius
of the American people takes wing and soars with the
rising sun, and tires not with the setting. Yet there is
each year a brief season when this great continent might
take the name of evening-land and wear it. I mean the
"fall," the gloaming, or Indian summer. Woodland
beauty is then in its prime, and the landscape is lovely,
alike on the Assiniboine and in the southern zone. Yet
it is loveliness of a different type, always enchanting,
al-v^ays varying ; as " one star differeth from another in
gldty," so differeth Indian summer on the Ottawa and
on the Eapidan. A Parisian counts it a great sight
when the trees from Place de la Concorde to the Arc do
Triomphe gleam with colored lamps, and he challenges
you to match the scene. I have looked upon it during
the gay revels of an Emperor's fete, yet in America,
where natare has done so much, there is a grander
tableau than any "festin" or carnival in the Champs
Ely^ses, when millions of golden and vermilion pennons
hang in autumn forests.

loom, and
gloaming"
but of the
I America
lay be true
the genius
3 with the
et there is
nent might
I mean the
Woodland
e is lovely,
zone. Yet
mchanting,
L another in
Ottawa and
great sight
the Arc de
J challenges
Q it during
n America,
I a grander
he Champs
Ion pennons

I have read in ancient writers that at the bnming of
an Eastern city, the smoke which ascended from the
conflagration, indicated the site of palace or temple;
yet further, from curling wreaths of misty grey, of bluish
haze, of lurid flare, you might prognosticate a court of
cedar, oak, or ivory, lighting and tinting the flames below.
Be this as it may, whether or not a burning palace, which
is one in the grim earnest of flame, may in the varying
cints of a destroying element be dissected as to local
difference, — the idea is true of the forest. Like brethren
have stood these noble trees, side by side, clad in a com-
mon robe of green ; yet each one shaped and crowned
with an individuality of its own. So now in death, like
chambers of a burning palace, their separate life comes
to the surface. The first frost-bite of autumn strikes a
I key-note of change, more sudden and wide spread than
any that alchemy could effect. More had I yearned to
live in the midst of Indian summer for awhile, than for
the sight of prairie-butte or canyon, of water-fall or
" Pictured Eocks."

The cornelian-cherry has put on flecks of amber, the
locust-tree a gleam of golden brown. Like a hardy
soldier stands the mulberry, scarcely deigning change,
scarcely feeling the anger of the frost. The tupel-tree is
crowned with crimson, the fire- tree glows in scarlet. The
silvery larch-bark catches a tint from leaves above of
GaJifornian nugget hue ; the maple hangs out the colors
of red-cross knights of old ; the cedar robes itself in Devoii
russet, tulip-trees and poplars attire themselves in
primrose-brown. The beech stands girded with a crimson
sash of wild-vine ; sturdy oaks join in the masquerade,
appearing in autumn ball-dress hung with golden coins
of eagle, angel, or napoleon. The hickory imitates in
paler tints the softened ruby.of the elm, and the sycamore's

mantle of carmine. F'-om north to sonth, from east to
west, nature's fretted handiwork is round you; the
silvery haze of amethyst and grey is unto you more fairy-
like kaleidoscope, than ever craftsman planned or
fashioned. The southern silvery mist is only to be
equalled and surpassed by the ** pink-mist" of a Canadian
" fall." Over all hangs a curtain of clearest blue. Indian
tradition loves to represent this season as the work of
Kabibonokka, the fierce north-wind. For this we care
not, but looking once more on the radiant scene, we
feel that a voyage over the Atlantic is not too high a price
of probation to pay for the sight of a glory so ethereal
and sublime.

In looking at the pine-trees, many of them have the
appearance on one side of being burnt, while the other
remains green and apparently full of life. This occurs
oftenest in the pine-forests of Georgia. The trees in
question have been operated upon by the resin-extractors,
who, by applying an instrument to the trunk, can take
the gum from one side to the middle, or from half the
tree at once. The burnt look arises from heat having
been used to bring out the gum. The green half is then
left till the next year to gather all the sap it can, when its
gummy treasure is also drawn, and finally the tree is
felled for timber. From this gum resin is made, and
turpentine is distilled.

It is not far from the forest to the cotton-lands, about
which I learned one or two interesting facts. The seed
is plant'^d in March, and grows up into a strong green
shrub like a currant-bush ; then the bloom appears, in
color a pale straw tint, with a brown centre ; this beau-
tiful flower soon falls, aad in its place a green ball, the
size 0^ a man's hand, is developed. This opens, the

im east to
TOVL ; the
tore fairy-
anned or
ily to be
, Canadian
e. Indian
le work of
is we care
scene, we
igh a price
10 ethereal

n have the
5 the other
his occurs
le trees in
extractors,
k, can take
m half the
eat having
aalf is then
n, when its
bhe tree is
made, and

mds, about

The seed

rong green

appears, in

this beau-
3n ball, the

opens, the

leaves tarn back, and the white fleecy cotton is seen.
In September this is picked off and carried in baskets
to be ginned, which means shaking out the dust, mixing
the fibre together, and breaking it up out of the hard
knob or ball. It is then pressed in bales, which are bound
with iron hoops fastened with a hole and button, and
shipped off to England. The crop is often injured by
caterpillars, which will spoil and eat up a field of 100 acres
in 24 hours. Their march over a road sweeps the sand
just as if it had been pressed and rolled. They breed
amazingly fast. Usually they never came tv/o years in
succession, for hogs and cattle trampled out and broke
their eggs on the ground, and poultry kept by the
negroes and planters eat up ovae and grubs in the fields.
Of late it has not been so, for hogs and poultry are much
diminished in numbers as a result of the war. There is
no plant so independent of th' rain as the cotton shrub,
which is a real sun-plant, never so flourishing as when
enjoying a succession of hot burning rays It ought to
have been called the sun-flower.

Very diffeient is the rice-plant. It is raised on wet
flat land ; there must be trenches round the field to flood the
rice during growth. It springs up like wheat, and is
brown in the grain ; the outer husk is taken off at the
mill, and the inner kernel furnishes the famous white
rice of commerce. The water-ditches grow stagnant,
and from the dark sluggish surface rises up malaria,
which is so fatal to white men and can only be borne con-
tinuously by black men. It will be hard to get along
on the rice-plar)tations without the freed-men.

Chinese are now penetrating to the South. They bear
the climate well, and make diligent, useful labourers.
They would arrive in greater numbers, but for restrictions
placed upon emigrants by exclusive Mandarins and popular
superstitions.

i I

No woman can leave China, nnless she is able to steal away,
disguised as a man. The Chinese emigrants to America bring
a supply of coffins with them. It is an "article of faith" that
they should be buried in their own land. All stipulate for their
remains to be sent home to China.

Maize is a great crop in the Sonth, and when ground
and made up into innumerable varieties of com-cak§ by
negro-cooks, is a favourite food by no means to be
despised. The first sight I had of a maize-field took me
quite by surprise. There stood the Anakim wheat-stalks,
from the top of each floated narrow green pennono, which
waved in the wind like the standard-tipped shafts of
Mexican lancers. But where was the gem? Midway
up the plant you will discover it, each ear of golden grain
set in an emerald sheath more deftly than pearl in a
jewelled crown. Dame Nature is an artificer too cunning
and accomplished to stoop from her pedestal to imitate
man's device, but she encourages those who love her to
draw from her models their finest conceptions of the
beautiful. Our truest and most faithful copy is at the
best, as the ** golden rose" of Italian Pontiffs by the
side of our English gardens' queen.

;eal away,
rica bring
ftith" that
;• for their

a ground
i-cak« by
ans to be
d took me
Bat-st»lks,
)ny, which
BhaftB of
Midway
ilden grain
pearl in a
)o cunning
. to imitate
.ove her to
ons of the
)y is at the
iflfs by the

WAR TRAILS.

^HE exigencies of war called forth one contingent of
^ soldiers after another. Like a snowball the
Northern armies gathered as they rolled, and at length
reached colossal dimensions. When the first ray of
peace lighted upon the mass, it dissolved and fell away
as does a glacier under an April sun ; each waif and stray
of the mighty gathering being again and almost instantly
absorbed into channels of peaceful labour. The sight of
such a dispersion, effected so quietly, was a wonder to
Europe ; and added another bolt in the fabric of freedom.
There are still however some memorials which remind
us of the war trail. In Northern cities you find crippled
men serving in a Soldier's Messenger Corps, their badge
of S.M.C. indicating a position analagous to that of our
commissionaries. In Northern homes you often see a
picture which is a great favourite, viz : Admiral Farragut
issuing his orders at the bombardment of Fort Fisher.
The brave seaman stands in the shrouds of his ship, cool
and unmoved amid the bursting shells of Confederate
guns. This act was equalled by an incident at the siege
of Charleston. Lieutenant Schaffer, of Georgia, would
hoist the Confederate flag on Fort Sumpter, and then
stand by its side. The Federals, moved by his bravery,
dipped their flags to him, and then he retired. At the
same siege, a gun which was in the charge of two Irish-
men exploded ; in the smoke they could not see this : so
one of them went up to his officer and asked him if he

had seen a stray *'columbiad?" People in Charleston
became so familiar with the process of being " under
fire," thut they grew careless of danger. As soon as a
puff of smoke indicated the approach of an iron messenger,
the street boys would run out to pick up the exploded
shell for old iron.

My friend Mr. Inglis lived for a year in New Orleans
towards the end of the war. He kept his individuality
as a British subject all the time ; for this, he was hated
by some as an Englishman, and supposed to favour the
Southern cause. All males in the city were ordered to
join the Federal army, or procure a pass of exemption
from the commanding General. Inglis had his papers of
nationality in his pocket, and relied upon them as a
sufficient reason for not obtaining a pass. One morning,
he was arrested by a negro patrol, for want of this per-
mit. The guard detained him in prison, for iour days,
until the British Consul who was absent at Mobile,
returned to New Orleans, and procured his liberation by
proper explanations. The city swarmed with detectives
in secret guise, and many regiments of negro troops
were quartered there. On the day of Mr. Lincoln's as-
sassination, men durst not speak to each other. The
first thing that our British friend saw on going to his
counting-house that morning, was a Southerner hanged
from a lamp-post, by the black soldiers ; and a little
later, on the same day, they hanged another near his
office. Then a negro came along, doubled up the
body into a packing-case, and flung it into the lake.

A gentleman of New York described to me the state of
feeling there. The people were almost frenzied about the
V ar. At first they did not realise the magnitude of the
struggle, but day by day it gained upon them that they
were in for a ** big thing" in fighting. The Americans

arleatou
<* under
lOon as a
issenger,
exploded

f Orleans
viduality
vas hated
wour the
rdered to
exemption
papers of
ihein as a
morning,
this per-
lour days,
^t MobHe,
leration by
detectives
gro troops
ncoln's as-
ther. The
3ing to his
aer hanged
md a little
;r near his
3d up the
e lake,
the state of
ed about the
litude of the
sm that they
3 Americans

are very sensitive, and when the London ** Times" was
read by them as it came in mail after mail, it lashed them
into fury, and their blood rose to fever heat. It became
painful for British residents to meet Americans, even
personal friends, so they kept together in compact circles
of their own. It was distressing to notice delicate ladns
become so familiar with bloodshed as to sneer at anything
short of a holocaust of victims. Englishmen were pressed
into the Southern army, and a system of espionage pre-
vailed in New York. Ministers obtained appointments
as chaplains in the army, in order to don uniform and
sword. In their churches they gloried to preach up the
war as a religious crusade, some of tbem even declaring
that every soldier who fell in battle would at once receive
his reward r " life eternal in Paradise. In contrast to this I
have heard a negro conduct a week-night service in Brook-
lyn, who had laboured on the defences at Wilmington ;
and I have listened to a young man preach, who was for
18 months a prisoner within the wretched Libby.

My friend William Graham was drafted three times ; the
last time he was marched down from his place of business in
Wall-street under fixed bayonets to the depot of Company
B. The Captain, a burly Irishman, seemed determined
to have the Englishman in the army nolenSf volens, and at
length Graham took his penknife and cut out his name
from the roll, as an effective manner of vi'^'jating his
nationality. His American friends came forward to
testify to the truth of his statements, and he was not
again troubled. Early in the war times, the long bridge
over the Potomac at Washington, was guarded at the
Virginian end by Confederate sentries. A Yankee
Btageman, whose horses were on that side, wanted to
recover them and he represented himself to the guard as
a farmer from Tennessee. The sentinel let him pass.

but having suspicions called him back, and pointing to
a herd of cows said, ** what do you call these ?" ** kews"
was the reply. ** Back, you dog of a Yankee your speech
betrays you," thundered the sentinel. The Southerners
pronounce " cow" more as we English do ; the Yankee
had pronounced it after the fashion of his countrymen.
I mention these details not in a spirit of censure, for that
cannot be, when we remember our own national trials
during the Indian mutiny. In the North they have
built memorial -halls in honour of their slain, the names
of their brave sons are perpetuated in marble as at the
old Pine-street Church, in Philadelphia ; the soldiers'
cemeteries in North and )South have become a national
care, and the keeping of them a labour of love.

It seems but a little while ago since ten millions of
people in the South were fighting for a separate Con-
federacy, since Sherman was marching through Georgia,
and Lee campaigning in Virginia. For four years the
struggle continued, the ** mailed Mars" sat "on his
altar," "up to the ears in blood" of kindred and country-
men. Now all is over. "We have heard occasionally of
Southern ladies refusing to pass under a Northern banner,
of planters leavi <t home and countiy rather than take a
new oath of al' je, but these are exceptions. There

are still p A^earing the Federal eagle to be found

in the co dd States, in the proportion of one soldier

to 2,000 people, but the most hopeful sign is that
reconstruction and readmission to the Union are rapidly
progressing. Now and then you meet with a man who
still talks of secession, and a slave regime. One said to
me " We never made a greater mistake than in 1776, and
we wish the English flag was flying over us now. "We
ought to go to Old England and say,- mother, we have done
wrong, take us back again." "You forget," said I "that

[iting to

<<kew8"

r speech

therners

5 Yankee

itrymeii.

I, for that

aal trials

bey have

he names
as at the
soldiers'

a, national

nillionfc' of
irate Con-
1 Georgia,
years the
«« on his
a country -
sionally of
irn banner,
;han take a
IS. There
10 be found
one soldier
gn is that
are ripidly
a man who
Dne said to
n 1776, and
now. We
e have done
said I **that

England abolished slavery a generation he/ore you began
to fight for it, and therefore could not have tolerated it
among you planters." But a more moderate sentiment
now prevails among the younger men. A fine young
fellow, actuated by a sense o^ duty and patriotism, had
fought through the war in the Southern army, and to-day
he says to me and his words are corroborated by a planter
from New Orleans, "It is a good time for investment down
South here, we want men of money from the North, and
from the Old Country among us now. The South will
rise again and in 20 or 25 years will have regained her
lost supremacy, but it will be a peaceable supremacy, and»
there won't then be slavery for a bone of contention."

The freedmen are settling better to work than might
be expected ; one good sign is that they are eager and
ready to receive education in schools where they are
taught by Northern men. There is no longer need for
Dred to study his Bible in the swamp, for Hannibal to
secrete his lesson-book among the rafters of his log hut
by the ferry ; the fulness of time has come, when negro
and white man may each '*sit under his own vine ami
fig tree, none daring to make him afraid." The courtly
planter of the old regime would take oflf his hat to his
slaves, not to be outdone by them in politentss, but new
the slaves have something more than politeness to rejoioe
over, they have freedom — not given their by "de polite
massa" but by the pouring out of blood — the life-blood of
the earnest christian men of the North.

When the war began, there were little chance of slave-
fetters being broken ; the result under Providence came
I about in this manner : — For some time after the conflict
commenced, all the slaves who came into the Northern
lines, were regularly returned to their Southern owners,
then the volunteer soldiers begun to ask themselves

' ' 111 11'' I !')!!■

" What are we fighting for ? have we parted from our
homes and kindred to become slave-catchers ? havo we
left farm and mill, school and college, wife and cUildren,
are we shedding our blood to rivet still firmer the shacKles
of oppression ?" Then went up from these noble freomen
aery, a demand that could not be denied. The answer
was Lincoln's Proclamation of Emancipation. The slave
empire was doomed. On the day of that memorable de-
cree which redeemed the fair fame of the freedom-lovinL^
North, in the eyes of freedom-lovir .; England, cacli
Northerner, each Southerner, had to choose whom ho
would serve. Slavery or Liberty ! As in the civil wars in
England; kinsmen and friends met in strife, so in America,
Freesoilers and Slavesoilers gathered themselves to-
gether in companies ; one-time neighbours met face to
face in battle ; and no more desperate strife was re glistered
than that when the 6th Missouri Federal and the Gth
Missouri Confederate met on the fields of Corinth and
Shiloh, Singularly enough, the Northern Generals gained
from runaway slaves, the most reliable war information
of the movements of the Southern armies.

By many signs the evidences of conflict are recogni.-ed,
conflict, such as the world has never bc^fore seen. I
went home with a young Southerner who had rnn tlie
blockade to come to England to school, his friends said
to him on his return ''You will find Louisville ssuily
altered," meaning that the ravages of war had reacliod
his former home. But it was not a welcome without
hope, for with this young man and the like, rests the
raising up of a new S'" :th, free from the cypress shadow of
the old. Again and again we ask ourselves the question,
is reconciliation likely to be permanent and sincere ? We
think that it will. Occasionally I heard a conflict of
words on river-steam«r or railroad-car, between a

Northerner and a Southerner, but it always ended in
words. During the bitterest moments of strife, men
were free to express slavery opinions in the North,
\vitbout fear of their lives; the same could not be said in
the South where it was almost death to advocate anti.
slavery opinions.

Whatever the South was before the war, it is no longer
a land of lotus-caters- The energy and determination
which came out during siege and battle, have now been
turned into peaceful channels. Savannah has now its
line of steamers running weekly to Liverpool, and the
levees of the Mississippi areagain piled with cotton bales,
and sugar hogsheads. At the close of the war all the
world was moved to admiration at the magnanimity of
the victorious North. There was little bitterness, and
much love in the hearts of the conquerors to their van-
quished brothers. ^Yhen fiery Irish volunteers remem-
bering a St. Bartholomew, "thought on vengeance,"
and refused water to suffering prisoners, the Federal
native soldiers, honest manly fellows, only remembered
mercy, saying in the spirit of Henry of the white plume,
*'No American is our foe." The South must never
forget the magnanimity and generosity of its conquerors.

"We have strong hope that the two will again become
fused into one, that in Texan ranche, in Oregon shanty,
in coralled camps on the plains, amid the silver valleys of
Idaho— the star state, in planter's home, and in northern
city, the national pulse will again beat in unison. A
common language, spans like a rambow, this continent
from Eio Grande to St. Lawrence, from Atlantic to
Pacific. As the spangled bow was unto mighty men of
old, a sign of promise and good hope, so may English
speech and its hand-maidens law and justice, be again
the strength and stability of a greater, still nobler

America. As 1 write these sentences the telegraph is
flashiror to England the news of a national monument at
Gettysburg, dedicated with solemn ceremony ; of the
largest peace festival which the world ever saw, celeb-
rated in the metropolis of New England. The battle-
mound speaks to us of strife and faction, bnt it also
commemorates the triumph of right. May it now add to
its emblems of record a crown of peace ; may the New
England jubilee constitute for ever a memorial of the
reconciliation of brothers, as does the Pennsylvanian
battle-tield the out-pouring of that brotherhood's blood.

Some predict that coming yecirs will witness a peaceful
division of American empire, into North, South, and
West.

Three glorious suns, each one a perfect sun.

We however are firm believers in the "Unity of the
Trinity." We pin our faith to the latter promise of
Plantagenet's vision. —

See, see ! they join, embrace, and seem to kiss,
As if they vowed some league inviolable ;
Now, they are but one lamp, one light, one sun.

Note.— The work of reconstruction is well-nigh completed,
The high war-prices are yielding to the return of a natural
order of things. The mortality of battle-field and hospital . has
been more than repaired by five years of emigration from Europe.
Gold payments are likely to be resumed soon. In a word, the
Ujiitod States are again iu the full tide of prosperity.— /wwc, 1870.

IN.

jgrapli is
.ument at
jr ; of the
bw, celeb-
he battle-
nt it also
low add to
y the New
•ial of the
asylvanian
i's blood,
a peaceful
Jouth, and

ill.

nity of the

promise of

ss,
,un.

;h completed.

of a natural
I hospital, has

from Europe,
[n a word, the

^JuTie, 1870.

BEOOKLYN.

The end of our foundation is the knowledge of causes and
secret motions of things, and the enlarging of the bounds of
huQian empire, to the effecting of all things possible.

' Bacon.

jjt:BOM Canada I was recalled to the States. A young
(51 friend in Brooklyn urged me to come southward
with such persuasive words as the following —

I trust that you have been enjoying the Canadas, but you
know that we, in the United States, hardly considei* that portion
of America as worthy the attention of a foreigner. Our
country, extending as it does to the yellow sandi of the
Mississippi, and then over the almost boundless plains to the
snow mountains and the great ocean : still south again to a
tropical region, and at length edging the blue Atlantic on our
Eaitem border, seems to us warmer and more cheerful than the
cold blue rocks of the Canadian. I hope then, that you will
hasten your steps in my direction, and try to make the city of
New Y brk in a short time.

Who could resist such pleading ? I could not, and a little
time after £ found myself sojourning in a pleasant home
on Brooklyn Heights.

Perched upon the western shores of Long Island stands
New York's twin sister. The two cities are separated
from each other by the East-river, but the watery barrier
is bridged by steam ferry-boats. Each has distinct civic

I )

administration, and a separate municipality, but they are
to all foreigners as much one city as London and West-
minster. A friend took me to have a glass of wine with
the Mayor of Brooklyn. He was genial and fond of
conversation, but utterly wanting in the pomp and
ceremony which now and then you find in an English
Lord Mayor, and which the Maire of a French Commune
never casts aside in public.

From the law-courts of the City Hall we descended to
another tribunal, and found that police-courts are much
the same kind of institution all the world over. In
Brooklyn, as in London, we here trace the consequences
o7 intoxicating drinks, — poverty and wretchedness cul-
minating in punishable crime. Not long ago there was
a discussion in theEnglish newspapers upon the questions
of education and religion, — the United States versus Great
Britain. In schools the ITew World metropolis ranged
ahead of the Old, and if anyone doubts the same superiority
in matters religious, let him visit Brooklyn. It is called
with truth the City of Churches.

Brooklyn is a vast suburb of New York, yet unlike
many suburbs, this one carries its workshops with it.
I know no more suggestive sight than the one you may
witness every morning from Brooklyn Heights. Down
to Wall-street and Fulton Ferries rush a band of
business-men, after an early breakfast at home, for
morning hours are the order of the day in the New World.
Mr. Beecher has facetiously called Brooklyn " the bed-
room of New York," and with reason. There is a mighty
exodus each morning to counting-house and store in
Empire City. By ten o'clock Brooklyn remains in
poisession of the gentler sex — ten women to one man.
But the wave rolls back again at night, and every house-
hold-king has then "his own again.'' All through the

nigW, lime-lights gleam out over the ferry-landings, and
the lanteras of ships in harbour twinkle over the
dark waters. The twin cities sink gradually into repose.
Then is the time for concerts in the Academy of Music,
for " sociables," and for croquet-parties to gather in the
gardens on the Heights, or in aristocratic Clinton
Avenue.

Climbing to the top of Trinity-spire I saw such a
panorama as would go far to quieten any scoffer at
American greatness. Westward, behind me stretched
the farms and gardens of Long Island. Before me lay a
triangle of cities. Brooklyn forming the base, New York
and Jersey City the sides. Below me lay Gowanas Bay
and the land-locked harbour, dotted with islands. Upon
one of these small sea-kingdoms frown the the walls and
embrasures of Fort Lafayette. Staten Island in the
distance, is green with lawns, gay with flowers, and bright
with charming villas.

Coming down from my lofty observatory, a friend informs
me that he remembers the building of Trinity Church,
and the time when Brooklyn Heights were green fields.
The old church-keeper was an Englishman from near
Carlisle, thirty years out from home. We spoke together
of the " Luck of Edenhall," — I found that he had heard
of the romance, but had never seen the famous goblet.
Dr. Littlejohn is the rector of this beautiful and flourish-
ing church. Its architecture is in the style of our English
cathedrals. The stone tracery of the vaulted roof is
delicately chiseled, and the colored windows are finely
conceived. There is nothing heavy or cumbrous in the
arched aisles, but an appearance of lightness and elegance,
after the fashion of French church-architecture.

The Academy of Music is one of the city-" lions.'*
The exterior of Philadelphia-pressed brick, is neat but

not imposing. The red of the walls is relieved with stone
facings on doors and windows. This concert-hall is
decorated inside in the Persian or Turkish style. The
seats are lined with crimson velvet, and the painting and
ornament consist of a chocolate ground, bordered with
bright red and gilt. The Mercantile Library is a valuable
institution, accommodated in a large building, whose
simple yet solid architecture might suggest to us a motto,
" plain but good."

I visited the Packer Institute, a kind of female college.
Troops of young girls were assembling for a morning
campaign, each with an array of books under her arm.
I called on some friends in the city, and found in their
drawing-room, memorials of home which surprised me,
viz : — a painting of Monmouth Castle, and a life-like
portrait of Yorkshire's most honored baronet Sir Francis
Crossley. Let all who tread the paths of the " People's
Park" at Halifax, remember that its princely donor
conceived the idea of its creation and gift in America.

The friends previously named took me to a fashionable
wedding at one of the city churches, remarking, " Your
experience of the States will not be complete until you
have witnessed an American wedding." I could only
assure them that I felt to be quite thrown in fortune's
way to be so highly favoured. The wedding in question
was said to be the gayest of the season. How shall I
describe it? A long array of carriages was drawn up in
front of the church. You enter the sacred edifice and
find it full to overflowing. The ladies come in unbonneted
and in gayest and richest evening-dress. When youiig
gentlemen gallants have handed the fair bevy to their
places, the centre of the church glows like a flower-bed
with silk-tints of yellow and purple, pink and violet, blue
and carmine. Some of these ** belles/' not content with

unadorned beauty, have adopted the frizzed and powdered
hair, with black patches on the face d la Henrietta Maria.
The bride was young and very pretty. I was told that
200 ladies and 200 gentlemen formed the circle of invited
guests for the occasion. After the usual marriage service
had been very heroically submitted to, ** Mendelssohn's
Wedding-March" was performed on the organ, and the
ceremony was over. Americans decorate their churches
a great deal at Easter and Christmas with flowers and
evergreens. I am told that this taste is in the ascendant,
especially among city congregations.

Many Americans who have not travelled, have strange
and prejudiced notions of England and her people. I
was one day introduced to a young lady, and in the
conversation which followed she astonished me much by
h-er remarks on this subject. I invited her to suspend
opinion, and to come over and see dear old England,
when the scales will fall from her eyes, I fancy. Nothing
can be kinder than an American's hospitality to his
friend. I dined one day with a young gentleman whom
I had met in Europe, and he, thinking of an Englishman's
reputed tastes, ordered up some pale ale which had
certainly been brewed from the waters of the Trent. It
tasted very good and refreshing when iced, and drunk
on a summer's day in the New World. Then he showed
me his study, his library, his European trophies,
a letter from Scotland, and did his best, in every
way to entertain me. We had a long chat about
English scenes and people which we had visited in
company. Finally he confided to me a cherished
plan which he entertained of visiting Great Britain
in a couple of years, and asked me to accompany
him then on a walking-tour. His father and all the

family are coming to Europe (D.V.) in four years, and he
made me promise thafc I would then go with him to
Norway, while his father, mother and sister were staying
in Italy. In the evening we gathered in the drawing-
room, and the young folks seemed never to be tired of
hearing stories of Edinburgh and Oxford, of Stonehenge
and Windsor. In return they sung for me the spirited
songs of their own land. One of the young men would
then take his violin, and end the seance with something
merry. On Sunday evenings it was very pleasant when
we could all join in singing hymns which we learn in
common, in the old and new lands.

A notice of Brooklyn would be incomplete without the
record of a visit to Mr. Beecher's chapel. I do not
mention this in a spirit of lionising. Many of my country-
men have studied Mr. Beecher's "Life Thoughts," they
have watched his long and uncompromising adherence
to the Anti-Slavery cause; and they know, that he
is not only a man of great originality, but also a true and
faithful preacher of the gospel. Plymouth chapel, in
which he preaches, is a large, plain building, having
sitting accommodation for 2,500 to 3,000 people. The
minister had just returned to his charge after the long
vacation, and was in his freshest and most earnest mood.
Those who saw him in England when he so eloquently
pleaded the cause of the Union, would not think him
much changed since then. It seems his way to introduce
a little of the sensational into his sermons, and occasion-
ally the drollery is so telling that the audience must
smile. Beginning his discourse in a rather indistinct
tone of voice, he warms into animation, and finally thun-
ders out his words. Mr. Beecher discards gown and
bands, and preaches in the ordinary dress of a private
gentleman.

At Plymouth Church thoro is no pulpit. Upon a raised
platform, is placed a chair for the preacher, and a reading-
table flanked on each side by stands for vases of flowers.
Congregational singing is encouraged, and the vocal
service spiritedly sustained. Mr. Beecher's hair is
turning an iron-grey, but his features retain all ^he vigour
and fire of early manhood. At one of the P^eL^byterian
Churches, I witnessed the preparations which the rjongre-
gation were making for a "surprise party" t,o take their
good pastor by storm on the morrow. This is a feature
of arrangement between people and minister, specially
American in idea and spirit, and its practice is now I
believe rapidly on the wane.

" All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy." Mr.
Beecher does not always wear theological harness. Now
and then he unbends and writes for magazines, and has
been known to produce a work of fiction. When vacation-
time comes he leaves Plymouth Church for a spell of
respite and goes up to his farm and family home on the
Hudson. Occasionally an American congregation give
a call to an English preacher. For instance a church in
5th avenue invited Dr. Hall, of Dublin, to become their
pastor. He accepted the charge, and the 6,000 dollars
in gold which annually accompanies it.

It is cheering to observe that there is an absence of
thai feeling, which in England is still manifested between
diSerent sections of Protestants. Such ill-will is a hinder-
ance to the truth that all have at heart ; for, as Machiavclli
says, "the jealousy of sects doth much extinguish the
memory of things."

On a fine afternoon L. took me out for a drive.
Observing the negro coachman to be in livery, I
remarked that " it was my impression that members of
a republic would on no account wear the badge or livery

ill

j'ii'
i

ipfj!
ii'i

of a master." " Only too glad to wear it when they have
the chance/' replied my friend. Driver and horses were
on capital terms, and I said so — ** I think that you and
your horsei are good friends Edward," upon which
the intelligent negro grinned with pleasure.

CE:M:ETEI^l^-

Intermingled with columns of white marblo are bright-hucd
climbing-plants, roses, and sweet-smelling flowers. On entering
the cemetery you would suppose it a place for the living, rather
than the dead. The portico of the church resembles a conservatory
more than a temple. Campo Santo, at San Michele, Venice.

After a pleasant drive through the suburbs of Brooklyn
we approach Greenwood Cemetery, — ^the most beautiful
necropolis in the world. Every charm of nature is lavished
here with prodigal hand, and man has followed in the
wake with his fairest ideals of art. The cemetery is
entered through noble gothic archways. There is a gate
for entre and another for sortie. A real portcullis set in
each tower above the arch, rises and falls upon incoming
and outgoing visitors. In the soft brown sandstone above
are carved scripture-scenes in bass-relief. With life-
like fidelity the artist has moulded and ranked the groups
of sorrowing men and women. Over each scene is
traced some holy text, glowing with words of comfort
to all who visit this shrine of the dead. '* Weep not" —
'* The dead shall be raised." — " Lazarus come forth," —
"I am the resurrection and the life," — are written on
tables of stone to remind us, that the silent groups
enclosed within are not consigned to the perpetual sleep
of death.

We enter the necropolis. Memorials of mortality stand
on every hand. On Ocean Hill, fanned by the winds of
the Atlantic, — in yonder dell, beneath willow and

cypress, — in the hard granite bosom of that slope, — in the
plain trench-graveof the table-land, the dead are sleeping.
Little children have been carried here by sorrowing
parents, and their memory is kept green by simple
epitaphs like these, "Our Willie,"— " Little Mary,"—
*• Darling EUie." On other tombs, the memory of the
sleeper is perpetuated by "storied urn and animated
bust." — A tall shaft has been reared for a brave fireman,
who, at the sacrifice of his life, saved a little child from
the flames. The figure of the hero, clasping the little
one in his arms, crowns the column. What nobler
"in memoriam," than the fireman's monument?

A beautiful marble shrine marks the res'oing-place of
Miss Charlotte Canda. This young lady was cut off in
the heyday of youth and beauty. The design for the
monument was sketched by herself during life, and
constitutes a gem in stone. Within the portico of the
shrine is placed a bust, the features of the living are
graven on the mute and lifeless marble. Two winged
cherubs are kneeling by the side, as if watching the calm
and motionless form, waiting for the moment when the
seal of the tomb shall be broken, and mortality shall be
swallowed up of life.

The sea-captain's monument on Vista Hill stands out
as a landmark, where landmarks are many. On a
massive pedestal is firmly planted the life-size efiigy of
the redoubtable mariner. Upon his head there rests the
similitude of a furred bearskin cap which has served him
right well on many a whaling voyage, at his feet is the
symbol of an anchor, and in his hands he holds the sextant
for taking an observation from the sun. Strangest of all,
men say that the orignal of this monument is still living.
Mr. James Gordon Bennett has also followed the mariner's
example, in raising a pre-mortuary monument to himself.

I I:

■■\"

i <\

At the foot of a column crowned with an angel, is the
figure of a woman kneeling with uplifted hands. An
imaginary lace-shawl over the shoulders has been wrought-
out of marble with marvellous success. Form and face
of the suppliant are said to be those of Mr. Bennett's
mother.

"Wo leave the place with mingled feelings — gratification
to know that worth is recognised by posterity, and we
trust not without a solemn conviction, a salutary remind-
ing, that faith and not honor is the touchstone, the anchor
of a life immortal.

Outside the cemetery-entrance, two open spaces are
reserved. By and by they are to be occupied by statues
of America's foremost Presidents. One of these wrought
out an Independence for his nation, the other, freedom for
the slave. "Washington and Lincoln are the men.

On the way home, Edward drives us through Prospect
Park, putting his " bays" on their mettle alongside the
fast-trotting horses on the central avenue. The situation
has been admirably chosen. Fine groves of trees are
growing in primeval wildness, ready to hand as planted
and fostered by nature. Six millions of dollars have
already been spent upon their pleasure-grounds by the
citizens, and I leave the spot with the impression very
strongly marked, that Prospect Park will by and by be
one of the finest in the world. Like many other things
in America " it is great yet to be."

And now, adieu to the land of Stars and Stripes. I
have learned to love it well, but like second love it only
comes after the first inborn love of native land. Oh, how
my heart leaps for joy to stand again under the brave old
flag of dear old England. Tears of gratitude come into
my eyes, to think that I call such a noble land my own.
Away from home a man is prouder of his country, and

feels at such moments that ho would gladly die for hor
safety. America is a groat country, — sho owes her
greatness to the kind gifts of Providence, — to the enter-
prise of her children, — and to her fathers from dear o^ ^
England, the " nursing motlior of us all." — At hearb
Americans are proud of the " mother country."

The Roman could receive no higher mark of distinction
than the "toga virilia" — the robe of manhood. Nearly
a century ago, America won among the nations a " toga"
for herself. It was a good and lasting garment, well
worth the winning. "Woven in a Saxon loom, brought from
the old country, — with the warp of religiotis freedom,
crossed with threads of civil liberty — it was at first a
homely garment. Since then, statesmen, warriors, men
of literature, ministers, and philanthropists have been
weaving upou it deeds of goodness and signs of honor.
Year by year the embroidering goes on. Already the
young Republic carries high a crown of glory, which many
a monarchy has failed to gain. Unalterable laws docree
that there shall be no oppression, and no persecution
within the land ; and that the lamp of education shall be
kindled and kept burning before each one of the nation's
children.

PART II.

DOMINIOIs[ OF CANADA.

THE CITY OF ST. JOHN.

E are steaming up the Bay of Fundy, bound for
' the commercial capital of New Brunswick. Away
to the westward are seen some islands, standing as
landmarks amid the furious tides of Fundy. There are
shoais of mackerel in the waters, and hither come whales
in pursuit of them. Some c2 these ocean-monsters, said
to be forty feet long, are seen "blowing" ahead of our
ship. The poor whales, monsters as they seem, have
other enemies besides man. A gentleman described to
me a fight which he had witnessed in crossing the
Atlantic. Two thrashers mad© up to " leviathan," and
one on each side of him belr^boured the whale with blows
from their huge fins, each the height of a paddle-wheel.
The pitiless castigation would not in all probability cease
until they had run him to death.

The coast of New Brunswick is wild, hilly and desolate,
clothed with a small growth of pines. It is cm iron-hound
coast,— we should not like to go ashore upon it. Seen
from the bay, St. John has a very picturesque appearance.
It is built up from the water's eti^e on rising slopes.
Numbers of houses are constructed of wood, and among

blocks of solid dwellings are interspersed many churches,
with their tall spires shooting up like masts above the
city. But there is no lack of the real thing in masts.
The harbour is full of shipping ; new vessels are rising
on the stocks, and an English man-of-war is keeping
guard at the entrance of the port. As our steamer comes
near the land, a beautiful rainbow spans the bay. It is
indeed a sign of promise. A whaling-captain at my elbow
mutters the old adage,

A rainbow at night,

Is a sailor's delight.

But what of this phenomenon in the morning ? The old

salt is ready enough with his answer, —

A rainbow in the momiBg,
Jack must take warning.

Now there is a rush on shore, and a scramble for any and

every kind of vehicle which presents itself. My modest

luggage is hoisted into a farmer's light waggon, and I

am soon safely housed in the Waverley Hotel. Mine host

was parrying the angry complaints of an American

visitor ; with Colonial independence of speech informing

the gentleman that if St. John hotel-arrangements were

not good enough for him, he had better go back and

bring the St. Nicholas with him. ** That we would right

smart, if we had our way and you fellows were annexed,"

replied the Yankee ] awyer, for such he was. Mr. Guthrie

then turned to me, " the house was so full," he said,

** that I must be content with a shake-down on a sofa."

I expressed my willingness, and by and by a clean,

pleasant bed-room took the place of the visioned sofa.

On the walls hung a picture that reminded me of home.

Sir Walter Scott's fame and naric are known here, for it

was his likeness on the canvas. There he sits as in the

library at Abbotsford, with his favourite dogs and

trophies round him.

irches,
)ve the
masts.
I rising
seeping
r comes
r. It is
ly elbow

The old

' any and
y modest
Dii, and I
\lme host
American
nforming
jnts were

3ack and
)uld right
mnexed,"

. Guthrie
he said,

n a sofa."
a clean,

Qned sofa.

of home.

ere, for it
as in the

dogs and

To an Englishman many of the city scenes have a stamp
of freshness ; there is an essence of originality about the
life of the people. St. John has a population of 45,000,
It is sometimes called an Irish city, from the prevalence
in it of the Celti(; element. The site of it was once an
isolated rock ; the ocean washed round it on all sides.
Now the waters have been banked out, partly by nature
and partly by artificial means. Lumber and fishing
constitute the great trades of the place. Some of the
streets by their up-hill and down-hill formation remind
you of a little town among the Pyrenees. The Roman
Catholic Cathedral is a fine building of stone. The
Bishop's palace stands close by ; very peaceful in spirit
are cre«t and motto chiseled over the porch; a dove
with bended wings, and the words, ** pax vobis."

The railway- station is down in the valley, between the
hills on which the city is built. This is the morning of
a gala-day, for 500 citizens are going out on a pic-nic to
Hampden, in the country. I saw the "start," as the
train moved slowly out of the station, the good folks were
enlivened with strains of music, and their banners waved
joyously from engine and car. The railroad is govern-
ment property and pays well, I am told. Locomotives
and carriages are constructed on the plan of those used
in the United States. I visited Fleming and Humberts'
factory in the city, where the engines are made, and was
much pleased with what I saw. Asking permission to
go round the works, I was answered *' Go where you like,
it is not the custom of this country to hide anything in
our factories from a stranger." Homely as are the streets
of St. John in the matter of pavement, you see elegant
carriages being driven through them. After all, St.
John is not exclusively Irish. There is a " fair field and
no favor" for every nationality. In the "New Brunswick

111!

cotton-factory," I found an English manager of looms,
an Irish foreman-carder, and a Scotch engineer, with
workers also from each nation. This little factory was
begun in 1859, and is answering so well that it will soon
be extended. England must not calculate fw ever upon
manufacturing for the world.

In the barracks above the harbour are stationed a
battalion of the English Rifle Brigade, and a detachment
of Royal Artillery. I was told that the 15th regiment
had been stationed for some years in St. John, and the
men had become thoroughly acclimatised. They were
sent away from a land where winter reigns for seven
months in the year, to the hot, fever-plains of Bermuda I
I felt this to be a sad instance of the British War-Office
wisdom. When I came home to England I read in the
newspapers, piteous accounts of the health of this ill-fated
regiment, after it landed in the West Indies, when the
soldiers were set to make roads under a tropical sun I
At the time of the " Trent" affair, six or seven regiments
were landed at St. John, and after being hospitably
entertained by the citizens, were sent up the country by
easy stages on sledges. Forty years ago a regiment
marched that way to Rivi&re du Loup. Captain Parks of
the Volunteer Engineers, with ten of his men. challenged
Captain Grant and ten men of the 15th Line to a shooting-
match. Captain Parks won by sixty-four marks. The
regulars and their officer were much surprised at the
result, they did not dream of being beaten by volunteers.
Captain P. explained the reason of his success by saying
that he had been trained as an engineer, while each of
his men was a mechanic by trade, and consequently
possessed some little scientific knowledge.

He was on duty five or six years ago, at the time of the
Fenian troubles. These turbulent people gathered by

hundreds at Eastport on the froniiers of Maine, but the
United States Government siezed their arms. No citizen
can subscribe evenly to the Fenian cause in the States. —
It must be done in an underhand manner, and the funds
are principally contributed in the names of Irish female
servants I So far the United States Government is acting
to us in good faith.

In company with Captain P. I attended the funeral
of a volunteer-officer. Large numbers of comrades
assembled to pay this last tribute of respect ; after
a solemn service three volleys were fired over the
grave. The history of the deceased officer was very
touching. He was a young Scotchman, and had been
settled about four years in the colony. He was comfort-
ably provided for, having property in the West Indies
worth £400 a year. A little while before his death he
had married a "New Brunswick lady, and she is left to
mourn his loss. The cemetery is a beautiful park-like
enclosure two miles away from the city. It was bought

ad set aside for the purpose by some far-sighted citizens
thirty years ago. The monuments in it are of Peterhead
granite, which is of finer grain, and will take a polish,
whereas that quarried in the province will not.

Quetii's square was filled with the rank and fashion of
St. John, indulging in an afternoon-concert and
promenade. The young ladies of the city are famed for
their beauty, remarks my friend, and looking round
upon the galaxy of fair faces, I can quite indorse his
opinion. The band of the 60th Eifles is providing
musical entertainment for the lively promenades ; as the
afternoon comes to an end the concert is closed with the
English National Anthem. As yet, soldiers and people
hold themselves to be members of our old English family.

Many vessels of from 300 to 1,400 tons have been built
in St. John. Nowhere in the world can wooden vessels
be constru ted so cheaply. The fast clipper " Marco
Polo" waf, built here. The "deal" ships of St. John have
a six or seven years class as A. 1. at Lloyds, while
En ish-built ships rank as A. 1. for ten or twelve years,
being superior in workmanship and strength. The
.shipping-laws of the United States are very one-sided in
favour of their own people. No foreign-built ship may
have letters of ownership in a United States port, — nor
hoist the United States flag, — nor carry goods from one
port to another in the United States ; — whereas, all
vessels of all nations, are free to come into all British
ports. The United States are by no means so liberal as
the British. The resources of the province of New
Brunswick are great. Soft coal is raised here, and can be
bought for twelve shillings a ton ; limestone is also
plentiful. Good English coal is brought out as ballast
by the timber- ships and can be purchased in St. John at
eighteen shillings per ton, while in London it sells at
twenty-five shillings per ton. Coal is also imported from
Nova Scotia.

Emigrants from Europe do not as a rule stay in
the province. There is no suitable provision made for
them on landing, and they dread the long, long
winters. They generally pass off to the Stat-'S. The
property qualification for voting in New Brunswick is
£25 of real estate ; or £100 a year income. All forms of
religion are voluntary and free. It would be impossible
to tax the people in this province directly f for in the woods
the settlers could not probably raise £5 in coin in a
year's time. The only way to raise a revenue is to
impose a duty upon all imported goods. The people are
very loyal, they do not wish England to cast them off,
nor do they wish to be a burden upon her. During the

American war feeling was divided, some with the North,
some with the South ; the gallantry of the Confederates
won respect, The United States allowed the Eeciprocity
Treaty to run out, though they still use colonial lumber
and wheat in large quantities. The Prince of Wales and
Prince Alfred have both visited St. John, and were very
enthusiastically received. The present governor of the
province is a New Brunswick gentleman. This is the
first time that this honourable post has been conferred on
one who is "to the manner bom."

A skating-rink is one of the institutions of this North
American city. Imagine a large circus-like building,
with a raised orchestra in the centre for musicians. The
floor is flooded artificially, upon the waters " king frost"
soon does his appointed and natural office. A gay scene
may be witnessed inside during the long evenings of the
Northern winter. The rink is brilliantly lighted, and
echoes with the strains of lively music. Gay companies
of citizens, ladies and gentlemen, are gliding about on
their runners, thoroughly enjoying the amusement,
though perchance the storm is raging furiously without.

A part of the city, including light-house and forts, is
situated over the bay. I noticed a street laid across a
shallow part of the harbour, composed entirely of refuse
lumber, so cheap and plentiful is wood in St. John ! At
the saw-mills, the outside slabs of timber are thrown out
and gathered together in huge piles. I was told that any
poor person was free to come and help himself to the
pile for firewood. A result of years of prosperous ship-
building at the port, has been the realisation of large
fortunes by those who engaged in it, A range of handsome
villas on the heights overlooking the harbour, was pointed
out to me as " ship-builders' hill." "While Captain P.
was driving me about to see all these city "lions," a

thick fog came on. It was so dense as to completely
shroud everything from sight, and so penetrating as to
Hnd its icy way through our broadcloth. We christened
it, or rather it baptised itself with the name of a ** real
St. John fog." "We were glad to seek refuge in my
friend's pleasant home. Among his out-door treasures
he showed me a flourishing thorn- hedge, the slips or
cuttings for which were brought by his father from
Ireland. Once in the comfortable rooms in the house I
forgot all about the fog. The evening hours seemed to
Hy as I listened to stories of provincial life. In North
America the young men take readily to a forest life, and
see far more of sport than we in England. My friend
has hunted in the woods for six weeks at a time, attended
hy an Indian, and camping out in the snow at night. He
regularly goes out on a moose-hunting expedition in the
season, and he finds capital fishing in the wild lakes and
streams of Northern New Brunswick. He enjoys the
free, homeless life immensely as a change from city
loutine. His snow-shoes were brought out for examin-
ation, and I was initiated into their use. Then I must
see the newest thing in patent skates.

Mr. P. spoke of a yonng engineer friend of his who
had taken service under the United States Government.
For six years he had been engaged in Northern Asia
upon the Russo-American telegraph survey. He reports
well of Siberia. It contains many nice villages and the
Russians have eighteen steamers on the river Amoor.
He returned to Washington to deliver his report and to
surrender the United States flag which he had been
entrusted with. Mr. Seward, the foreign secretary,
thanked him and exchanged his well-worn flag for
another.* Mr. P. sen. is the chairman of the Inter-

*For information on this interesting subject see ** Harper's
Monthly" for August, 1868.

colonial Railroad, and was absent in England buying
rails, at the time of my visit. I had met him in London
some years previously and was then much attracted to
him by his earnest loyalty. Every day when we met at
breakfast my old New Brunswick friend was persecuted
by an iimerican fellow- guest who was burning for the
annexation of the province to the United States, Taking
me aside and pointing to him of the stars and stripes,
Mr. P. said *• he tries my temper almost beyond what I
can bear, it is hard to hear my Queen sneered at by a
Yankee." I missed very much his kind face, when it
came to be my lot to visit his own home in the New
World.

A little distance from the city, the river St. John is
crossed by a suspension-bridge. The stmcture bears
date 1854, and is the greatest engineering triumph in the
province. Its stability was tested in the following
manner : — A barge of stones was brought up at high tide,
and suspended from the centre of the bridge, as the tide
receded, the whole weight came upon the structure; there
it hung in mid-air, until the returning tide took it off.
It must have been good work to stand a trial so severe.
A little above the bridge some black rocks render the
navigation of the stream very dangerous. Owing to the
tide, the harbour- waters are generally much higher than
the river- waters. Vessels can enter or leave the river
only during a short interval daily, when the tide-waters
are on a level with it. When the tide runs out, the river
is the higher level, 80 that the tide- waters and the river-
waters alternately overtop each other. I know no more
exciting scene than to stand and watch the timber-rafts
coming down the river and enter the harbour at the turn
of the tide. The hardy lumberers stand on the rafts
with long poles in their hands to pilot them through the

rapids. ^ s each voyageur dexterously shoots the falls, and
brings hi*, raft into quiet waters, you long to celebrate
the deed with a cry of " Braro, well done 1" I returned
again and again to gaze upon this wild and perilous scene.
On the edge of the harbour many saw-mills are built.
A party of American friends joined me at the bridge
and invited me to go with them on a visit to the Indian
Camp. So I sent back my horse and jumped into their
carriage. After passing the straggling cabins of Indian
Town, we arrived at a swamp in the open country, This
was the Indian "reservation." Some of the trees had
been felled, yet the place remained a tangled labyrinth
of wildness. Surrounded by gnarled roots and piles of
brushwood stood the wigwams. Slices of birch-bark,
long grass, and rags from the white man's city entered
into the construction of the red man's summer-home.
If the wigwam was a melange of odd things outwardly, it
was a den of dirt and squalor within. We looked into
one through a rent in the side. A wretched old woman
sat close to the embers of burning ash-brands. The
smoke, finding very limited means of exit, filled every
nook and cranny, and the smell was almost intolerable.
** Why don't you have chairs my good woman ? It would
be much more comfortable." said Mr. Jenness to the old
Indian, — but^his philanthropic suggestions were thrown
away. Not a word would the old woman speak until we
handed her some small coins, and then she said " Ugh."
In another part of the reservation we found wooden
cabins, in which some of the Indians lived, and pursued
their calling of basket-making. The squaws are very
quick at this kind of work. Many specimens of baskets,
fans, birch-bark boxes and beadwork are executed with
creditable skill. Porcupine quills, dyed in bright colours,
constitute an important item among the stores of raw

material in these primitive work-shops. Peeping about
from hut to }iut for samples of baskets we were taken to
a copper-hued child of twelve, and told that she had recently
been married, according to the custom of her tribe.
"And how do you like your husband my poor child,"
was the interrogation of enthusiastic Mr. Jenness ; but
the lustrous eyes of the Indian maiden showed no sign
either of pleasure or anger at the question. In another
hut lay a poor man who had broken his leg at one of the
saw-mills. We were wished to go in and see him, and
give him a word of cheer. He bore the pain with great
fortitude, and seemed pleased at the sympathy of his
"pale-face" visitors. When we began to enter into
negociations for the purchase of some of their fancy-work,
the women were remarkably independent in their
demeanour. It seemed as if barter was a thing not
natural to them, but acquired from their white conquerors .
They consulted together apart, and in addition to the
broken English which they speak, I heard thom using a
patois of French, — from this I opined that some of them
were Canada Indians of the Lorette tribe. A lady in
Nova Scotia told me of a visit she had paid to an Indian
camp at the time of the deaija of one of the tribe. All the
Indians, male and female, wail and howl for a long time
over the dead, and then set out the body in due Catholic
form, with crucifix and image, and bury it with the rites
of the same church. A migratory tribe will leave the
place and move elsewhere, when a death occurs amongst
them As we turned away, out came a whole regiment
of dogs, and speeded our departure as they had greeted
our arrival by a yelping chorus. When we rode again
past the cabins of Indian Town, a rear-guard of little
children, darkies, reds and half-breeds followed us for
the expected largess of cents.

n^i

As we neared I be city, range after range of pretty
" bird's-eye" views ope .ed before us. Green slopes ot
woodland, blue waters and villas set in screens of spruce
and cedar. A leading citizen of St. John told me that
he left the north of Ireland fifteen years ago ; now ho
would not go back to FAirope for anything in the world.
He expressed an opinion that tbe provinces would
ultimately be united to the States. But "let us have
peace and good will" said he, - for a war with America
would starve the world." We believe there will be
peace.

pretty
opos of
spruce
lie that
now ho
! world,
would
LIB have
^.merica
will be

NOVA SCOTIA.-ICE & GOLD.

ROM .i*-. John I went to Nova Scotia. The steamer
, left the harbour with the tide at 10 p.m. It was a
lovely evening, — the sky appeared ablaze with stars, and
the "northern lights" were seen shooting in graceful
curves. A party of four of us gathered on deck to enjoy
a pleasant chat. The trio were tourists from the United
States ; I, who completed the quartet, was believed to be
a young traveller, whose early years had been passed in
a Scotch manse. I was inwardly amused at this guess
which they made, but did not undeceive them for awhile.
I have r^entioned Mr. Jenness before. He was a fair
specimen of the bold, fearless American. His delight at
visiting the Indians in their huts and wigwams was
much more enthusiastic than mj own. He is rich, and
he has given the reins to his desire for travel. All
Europe has passed in review before him. He has
wandered up and down in Norway and Sweden, comparing
and contrasting the present of those countries with the
description contained in the Sagas. He has diligently
studied Bohn's edition of the Sagas, and says the perusal
of these ancient records has afforded him much pleasure.
Dipping still deeper into that species of lore which lies
on the border-land of the unreal, he has read Sales'
translation of the Koran, and portions of the Talmud.
He has a curious turn for history. Now he is off on an
expedition to Annapolis, ninety miles south-west of

Windsor, Nova Scotia, to inspect the forts and other
I'emains of the early French- settlements there. He
offers to pay all the expenses of our little party in posting
down there, if we will accompany him ; but we are
obliged to decline his invitation.

In the middle of the night our steamer comes to a
stand, and for some time our rest is disturbed by the
clink of bolts and the clang of hammers. Then progresb
is resumed. 1 begin to find out that constant travelling
by sea and land, with its attendant anxieties, and frequent
loss of sound, regular sleep has a wearying effect upon
mind and body. Still all this is necessary if you would
see the world.

In the morning I am up and on deck at day- break.
Sunshine gladdens every part of Minas Basin and sur-
rounding shores. Here was laid the "embarkation
scene" of Longfellow's "Evangeline." TL.e place has
an interest for me on this account. It is said that Moore
wrote his beautiful poem of "Lalla Rookh" without
ever visiting Cashmere ; as a parallel instance of imagin-
ative power — I am told that the author of "Evangeline "
has not seen the land of Acadie. From the ocean rise
two or three rugged ^islands. To-day they are green with
pines, but there is about them an isolation, a loneliness,
tiiat seems to say that they have been bound in icy, flinty
bands since the beginning of the world. Cape Blomidon
gnards the mainland. Under and round it are flat shores
dotted with houses and barns. Hay-making is goinj,- on,
and theooru is ;ttill green x the fields. Church-spires
peep through the trees, and altogether there is much to
remind us oi an English scene. The tide in Windsor-
uaven rises fifty feet. Our steamer disembarks her
passengers and immediately takes on board those for
the return voyage, so that s^e may go out with the tide ;

, other
. He
josting
we are

les to a
I by the
TOgresb
ivelling
'requent
5ct upon
u would

y-break.
jiid sur-
larkation
ilace has
Ekt Moore
without
imagin-
geline "
ean rise
^een with
ineliness,
cy, flinty
Jlomidon
at shores
joing on,
ch- spires
much to
Windsor-
)arks her
those for
the tide ;

otherwise she would be left aground. The village of
Grand Pre is twelve miles from Windsor, Memorials of
its French founders still remain in the dikes which they
raised to keep out the floods of Fundy, The orchards
and meadows are fruitful and green as ever — the corn-
lands yield golden harvests as of yore ; but the "fruit of
the vintage" is for others. Scotch shepherds and farmers
have taken the place of Normandy peasants ; now in the
homes of the Acadians

Dwell another race, with other customs and language.

Our friend of the Sagas and Talmud leaves us at this
point, he to the south, we to the east. At Windsor we
take the cars for Halifax. The iron- way consists of a
single-line, but it is well made, the rails beii^g laid upon
the durable English plan. Engine and cars are built
*' a TAmericaine." I am astonished at the choice woods
used in the construction of railway-carriages. Beautiful
white-oak, maple, beech, ash and mahogany are always
used for the intern 1 fittings. No vmitatioTb, but the real,
solid wood, finely polished. The interior of Nova Scotia
through which the train passes, is stony, bare and
desolate. Probably its treasures lie beneath in mineral.
The first growth of timber has long been cut ofi". At
Windsor-junction we look npon a scene of sterility not to
be out-done,—

All is rocks at rt- dom thrown.
The Fundy-side of the province is more fertile ; nature
has done more for it. Near Halifax is an inland-basin
having an area of ten miles* It would hold wHhout
crowding, all the navies of the nations. It is hardly
likely however th"^* they will ever rendezvous in any port
so far to the North.

The city of Halifax is very ioioresquely situated. It
is built on a hill-side;, the ^ouser :uid streets rising

'ill

terrace above terrace from the water's edge. The
harbour is one of the largest and best in th« world.
George-Island below the city is strongly fortified, and
the citadel works are mounted with Armstrong guns.
Two regiments of British Infantry, the SOth and 47th ;
some engineers and a troop of artillerymen compose the
garrison at present. Mr. Austin, an American gentleman
was with me when I visited the navy store-yard.
Pointing to the piles of shot and shell he said in his droll
way, "these are intended for us, are they not" ? "Not
unless you come for them," was my reply.

The city contains 40,000 people, and there is an
English tone and a style of manners in Halifax "society,"
which you do not find elsewhere in America. Mr.
A. expresses himself much pleased with the appear-
ances of prosperity and active life which pervade the
place. Like many of his countrymen he had been a
great traveller and was therefore able to form impartial
opinions. He thinks that when the Intercolonial
Eailroad is opened, Halifax will become the greatest
port in British North America. Without any jire-
judice he gave the palm to New York, which must in
the natural order of events become the largest city in the
world. From this gentleman's conversation I derived
much pleasure and instruction. He was of Dutch descent,
and sprung from Albany, a lawyer by profession, but
now retired from active duties. He had a taste for
literature, and I found that he regularly read our best
English Eeviews. We parted hoping to meet again in
New York at the Fifth-Avenuo Hotel.

On Sunday evening there was service at the garrison-
chapel. In came the infantry-soldiers, the enginoers,
the artillerymen, the sailors of the navy, jud the soldiers'
and sailors' friends. The preacher takes for his text a
passage about the great ivory-house of the King of

The
world,
d, and
guns.

1 47th ;
ose the
itleman
•e-yard.
lis droll

2 "Not

■e is an
society,"
;a. Mr.

appear-
vade the
I been a
impartial
jrcolonial

greatest
any pre-
L must in
iity in the
[ derived

descent,
IsBion, but

taste for

our best
again in

garrison-
jngincers,

soldiers'
his text a

King of

Israel ; a real soldiers' sermon. The men and boys of
the regimental bands sit in the centre, by the harmonium
and lead the singing. The tunes and hymns used are
" Ancient and Modern," and we have to-night two that
are favourites in England, " Nearer to Thee" and " Sun
of my Soul."

Halifax has one drawback — the rigour of its winters.
For seven months in the year the snow-king is monarch
here. Then carriages and roads alike disappear, and
sledges take their place. T noticed a picture representing
the harbour as frozen over, and the Cunard Mail Steamer
working its way through with ice- saws and shields. An
old custom is still in vogue, obliging every man on board
a ship, which enters Halifax-harbour to sing something,
\f only a single stave.

The sixty miles between Halifax and Truro is now
traversed by rail. I stood on the outer platform of the
cars and scanned the country attentively as we passed
through it. Truro is a pretty town, standing in a hill-
enclosed plain, which is watered by two rivers. Mr.
Smith took me up to the roof of his store, from which
vantage ground I had an excellent view of the country.
He smiled as I asked him questions which must have
displayed ignorance on my part, saying, "some of you
English have it in your minds that we are only half
civilised out here." In Truro there is not only civilization
but comfort. The people are very much like the English,
and all seem well to do in the world. Labour is plentiful,
a farmer-man receives 4s. or 4s. 2d. per day. (In New
Brunswick similar labour will value at 5s. per day.) The
horses and cattle are good, the latter pasture with bells
on their necks. Land for farming, that has been culti-
vated, sells for £25 per acre, uncleared land for a very
small sum, Oats and barley grow well, but wheat is

ili

I'll

scarcely ever sown, for the weevil eats the grains in the
ear.

The inn at which I dined had once the honor of
receiving a Royal personage to luncheon. The Prince of
Wales only stayed here an hour, yet it was sufficiently
long to change the name of the Inn. The " Travellers'
Rest" became the " Prince of Wales." In the afternoon
Mr. S. took me out for a drive in the country. The tide
from the Bay of Fundy comes up the rivers, and each
time leaves a deposit of a Jin, of red mud. Much land
has been reclaimed from the rivers by banking out the
tidal-waters. The flats which have been won from time
to time by this means, make the best meadow-land. In
this district they are called " marshes," and the yield of
hay from them is very large. At Amherst, fifty miles
away, the crop this season averaged three tons of hay
per acre. The lorg native grass is used for young cattle
in winter, and the shorter herbage, sown from seeds
of English grasses, tor the milk-cows. Large cargoes
of it havn been shipped to Great Britain. Ten years ago,
in August, came a great flood which washed away to the
sea much of the com of this district.

We passed a large frame-house. It has been built by
a Southern plcmter who has purchased a large farm, and
settled here. In the principal store of the place everything
from a needle to a bar of iron is sold. I was amused at
being a spectator or listener to a skirmish of bartering
which went on between the storekeeper and an old lady-
farmer from the country. This primitive system is
however going out of fashion year by year. Truro
depends principally upon agriculture, yet it has now a
small woollen manufactory, an iron-foundry, and a very
large boot-manufactory. I was surprised to see the
variety and excellence of the machinery in operation at

in the

Lor of
.nee of
siently
ellers'
Brnoon
tie tide
d each
sh land
out the
im time
ad. In
yield of
y miles
3 of hay
ig cattle
aa seeds
cargoes
ars ago,
i,y to the

built by
irm, and
erything
Qused at
(artering
Did lady-
ystem is
Truro
iS now a
id a very
see the
(ration at

the latter establishment. The manager is a man who haf?
lived long enough in the States to catch the Yankee spirit of
energy and celerity. Following the example of the United
States, the Schools are now free. I visited the new school -
houses with great interest. Truro with a population of
2,000 pays annually £200, £150, and £75 each respectively
to its head-master, second-master and female-teachers.

An evening spent at my kind friend's home called up
memories of other scenes. A daughter of ray host is
married to Captain Frazer, the commander of the mission-
ship "Dayspring." This vessel was fitted out from
funds contributed by Sunday-school children of Scotland,
England, and Nova Scotia, and it is sustained by the
Sunday-school children of Australia. The ship is laid
up in Sidney or Melbourne Harbour during winter, and
in the summer months it sails out with supplies to the
mission- stations on the islands of the Pacific. Captain
F. is a good navigator, and also an amateur photographer.
I saw pictures of groups of natives whom he had gathered
together upon the deck of the "Dayspring," and then
photographed. He has also sent home many specimens
of native- work such as a table-cloth, robes, bags, head-
dresses, made from grasses and bark. I looked into the
engineers' cabin of a small steamer plying between
Halifax and Newfoundland and there sure enough hung a
picture of the little "Dayspring." The ladies told me
that their sister took very well to the sea with her
husband, in his new calling. Captain Furguson, the
chief Harbour-master of Australia, (whom I much regret
to say is since dead) took a lively interest in Captain and
Mrs. Fraser, of the mission-ship, and knowing of my
intended voyage to America, he desired me to visit their
friends in Nova Scotia. I now look back upon it as one
of the most pleasant episodes in my journey.

!'(■:

Mr. S. says " that the people do not desire union with
the States." The present cry for the repeal of the
Dominion-Confederation is ** much-ado about nothing."
In a little while all will come right, and Nova Scotia will
be happy and content under the new regime. I was
introduced to Captain Fawkes, the agent for Lloyds in
the Province. He lives at Pictou, and invited me to
visit him there. From this port it is an easy sail to
Prince Edward Island. This is the garden of the
Maritime Provinces. The farm-lands are rich : the soil
free from stones, and house and barn must be built of
wood or brick. The Island was visited by the Prince of
Wales, to the great delight of the inhabitants. The
Prince heartily reciprocated their welcome, and was seen
by my informant dancing at Charlottetown, the capital.
Cape Breton Islanr" nd Newfoundland complete the

tale of the new Domiv « sea-kingdoms. In Newfoundland

itself or in Nova Scotia, tine specimens of the famous
water-dogs may be easily obtained.

One of the gold-m.ines of Nova Scotia is near Truro.
Seven-hundred mirers are now employed upon it. A
ton of quartz obtained in the district may yield 15 oz. of
gold, woi'th 18 dollars per oz., or 270 dollars (£55) per
ton. The province is also rich in iron and coal. I visited
the Londonderry mine, where the entire mountain is said
to be a mass of iron-ore. Wagons of pig-iron are
constantly met upon the road, and charcoal-burning is
going on in the forest. Only hard wood like oak,
maple or ash is used for this charcoal.

I crossed the Cobequid Mountains by coach, on my
return journey into New Brunswick. The passage of
these hills was grand and romantic in the extreme. After
four hours of travel we left the plain, and got on to the
mountain-range. High rocks towered up on one side.

lion with
x\ of the
nothing."
Icotia will
3. I was
Lloyds in
3d me to
Cbsy sail to
3n of the
L : the soil
be built of
! Prince of
nts. The
i was seen
tie capital,
(nplete the
yfoundland
he famous

ear Truro,
ipon it. A
Ld 15 oz. of
(£55) per
, I visited
itain is said
g-iron are
burning is
d like oak,

tch, on my
passage of
eme. After
)t on to the
n one side,

overhanging the road or pass, which was built out into
the river upon piles. This region is the Trossachs of
New Scotland, quite as wild and more extensive than the
" bristled territory" of the old. At a great elevation we
pass over the " Mines" river, which flows deep down in
a gulley below. The wooden bridge over the gorge seems
very unsafe, and as usual there are holes in its roadway.
It is the custom in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick to
roof over the bridges like a bam, in order to better pro-
tect the woodwork structure from the action of the
weather. So that the act of crossing a river, is a similar
experience to entering a tunnel. All drivers, are obliged
by law, to bring their horses to a walking-pace when
passing over a bridge. We have now emerged upon a
plateau or table-land on the hills. The ground is covered
with timber-trees and scrub, among which are growing
dog-berries, pigeon-berries and wild raspberries. The
latter are being gathered by a band of women who have
come up from the mines, and very tempting looks the
speckled rose-coloured fruit, in the wooden pails in which
it is piled. The solitary inn at Westchester stands on
the highest point of the mountain ; from this spot we can
see for miles and miles a plain of unbroken forest-land, —
nothing else. On a clear day we see Prince Edward
Island in the dim distance of sixty miles away. The river
Philip is crossed, and the ride continued for twenty miles
through solitary woods.

Primeval and Modem here nod to each other, and
sometimes shake hands. The mail is regularly carried
through the haunts of the brown-bear and moose. In
winter the bears hibernate under logs. They will then
suck theii' pawe, until they ai'e white, and reduced almost
to skeletons ; but they make up for lost-time in summer,
with banquets of blackberries and the farmer's sheep.

Between bear and horse there is a mututil spirit of fear.
The bear will not attack the horse, and the latter
shows by trembling limbs, his terror when he scents
Bruin afar oft'. Our driver Angus jumjis off his waggon,
and kills a snake with its seventeen young ones, A skunk
creeps down the fence-side and crosses our path. Mr.
Prowler is " after" the farmer's geese. It is black and
white like a dog, with a small snout. Angus tells me
that it is quite true about the bad smell it sends forth,
when pursued. A bag or bladder contains the offensive
matter, and the animal has the power of ejecting this at
will.

Upon a tree- stump by the wayside, a passenger is
quietly waiting for the stage. We take him up. He turns
out to be Captain Birel the winner of the Governor's prize
at the Dominion rifle-shooting contest. He showed us
the trophy, a beautiful, gold-watch with the arms of the
Dominion of Canada traced upon it. At one of the farm-
settlements, a young county-girl joined us, and she
insisted on relieving Angus, and driving the stage her-
self for some miles, — she seemed quite equal to the task.
Again the northern lights cheer my nocturnal pilgrimage,
I notice another peculiarity of the sky. A span of
uncertain light, like a silver-mist forms in our quarter of
the heavens, denoting the point from which the wind is
to blow on the morrow. To night it is the herald of
southern breezes.

At Amherst, on the confines of Nova Scotia, I halted
for supper, and then turned to fnkce the waters of Cum-
berland Bay. To-night sullen plash and mournful wail
are their characteristics, as the furious tide comes rolling
in, with an energy more headlong and insatiable than
that which in the Lincoln-washes, devoured the army of
King John.

THE EIVEE ST. JOHN.

CHERE waa no sleep for me on the night when I
reentered New Brunswick. Aa the sun rose we
found ourselves on the outskirts of the Trench settle-
ments, which are planted all along the west and north
shores of the province. The shanties are poorer, and
enterprise is far behind the sections peopled by Saxons.
This district is watered by the Peticoudiac, pronounced
here Peticoujack, The sea rushes up the river in a wave
of 18ft. deep, at first, advancing rapidly, until it attains
a speed of six miles an hour, and a maximum height of
sixty feet, at spring-tides. Flats of red mud are the
traces it leaves behind. The river bottom is full of
quicksands, yet large ships are built upon the banks ;
when launched their navigation to the ocean is a difficult
and dangerous work. A little further north there are
exteniFjive granite-quarries, which can only be worked at
low-water ; when the tide comes in the workmen must
retire. An amateur geologist from Fall Biver, Massa-
chusetts, showed me some curious specimens of fossils
which he had picked up on the rocks at Miramichi. From
Moncton to St. John the distance is 113 miles by rail,
through a section of the province which is full of timber,
but greatly needs developing.

I now embarked on a steamer going up the St. John.
For a few miles after leaving Indian Town, the river is
shut in by bold, well" wooded hills. These were succeeded

l)y flat sloping bankg, and green pasture-fields. The
land is good ; a rich soil now yielding large crops of hay,
where fifteen or twenty years ago flourished the forest.
Our steamer is on the American plan, and excellent meals
are served on board. As we pass the embouchure of
Grand Lake, a fellow-craft that is coming down, signals
us to lay to. Down comes a long raft of timber, towed
by a steam-tug. It is an immense size, and in letting it
pass our steamer almost runs aground on a shoal in
shallow water. Every now-and-then little row-boats
come out to meet us in mid-stream with passengers.
Two Indian canoes on a race, paddled by white men,
pass at great speed, each man managing his single
paddle with great dexterity.

In the evening we reach Frederickton, the Government
Capital of New Brunswick, In this little town is stationed
a regiment of 800 British soldiers, the 28th Line. The
officers have tamed and trained a bear. It is chained to
a tree in front of the barracks, and the soldiers serve it
with regular rations. On the steamer we had the company
of the " Alleghanians," who in the evening gave an
entertainment in the Temperance-Hall . The room was
filled to overflowing with the good townspeople. Governor
Wilmot was expected to be present, but sent a message
of apology for non-attendance. Two of the performers
are of Swiss-origin, and one of them is a Scotchman.
Their expertness with the hand-bells is simply wonderful.
"God save the Queen," played on the bells, closed one
of the most pleasant and lively performances to which I
have ever listened. As the whole assembly rose as one
man, to join in the anthem, I felt that England is still a
mighty nation.

Next morning I drove out with a young acquaintance
to see the suburbs. We passed the College and the

,. The
of hay,
) forest,
it meals
jbure of
signals
I', towed
etting it
shoal in
3W -boats
5senger8.
lite men,
is single

vernment
1 stationed
ine. The
jhained to
•s serve it
5 company
gave an
room was
Governor
a message
performers
cotchman.
onderful.
closed one
io which I
•ose as one
id is still a

^uaintance
te and the

Governor's house, both pleasantly situated on hills
overlooking the town. We met Lieutenant-Governor
Wilmot, a fine, distinguished-looking old gentlemen,
lie is the first native ofNew Brunswick who has received
the appointment from the New Dominion, and he is much
respected by the people.*

At Mr. Morrison's saw-mill we were kindly received
by his Scotch manager and shown over the works.
Steam is the motive power; the furnaces are fed with
refuse wood, and all the saw-dust is burnt, being con-
ducted on to the flames between long, narrow boilers
through apertures from above. The logs are hauled up
out of the river along an inclined plain, by steam powei'.
Some 30,000 superficial feet of timber are sawn daily.
Laths worth 4s. per thousand are made from the small
refuse slabs, Mr. Morrison having two machines which
will cut up 50,000 of these daily. 80 or 90 men and boys
are employed here, and it seems to me that workers in
lumber mills have to work terribly hard. "VVe then ferried
over the river and drove three miles to Mr. Gibson's
mills, situate on the Nashwaak. His brother entertained
us very courteously. Water is the motive power. An
immense wooden dam has been placed across the r^ver ;
from it the water is conducted on to the wheels, which are
something like the "turbine," but requiring less fall. —
three feet of ** head" will suflBce. The mills are worked
night and day with three sets of hands : twenty-one gangs
or 250 men being employed. Mr. G. has built a house
for himself, — said to be the finest in the province ; and
he has not forgotten his men : for them he has erected
comfortable cottages. His career has been one of pros-
perity. He purchased 5,000 acres of forest-land up the

*The Governor holds office for four years, and receives a salary
of 7,000 dollars per annum.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

f/.

1.0

I.I

1.25

Mi U4

1.4

2.5

12.2

2.0

1.6

' •' .%""

v>:^^

'<F -'^

river, for an " old song ;" his lumberers yearly depart on
crusades against the giants of the woods. He is said to
purchase £20,000 worth of stores annually for his people,
and with each lumber- season he grows richer. These
mills are specimens of many smaller ones, which, all
through the Province, are seen busy at work on the banks
of the streams.

We then turned our faces wp the river. Mounting a
hill we obtained an excellent view of bright little
Frederickton, with its streets laid out at right angles,
and its white houses gleaming among green trees. My
companion told me many " on dits" of the province.
British officers are much thought of in New Brunswick ;
they have free Qui/re to the first circles in society. Many
of them marry New Brunswick ladies and settle here for
life. All business must be done in the six summer-
months, for in winter, river-navigation is closed by ice.
I looked in at a booksellers' shop to supply one or two
wants. The young man who kept it told me he had been
two years with Tickuor and Fields, Boston, to learn his
business. His stock of books was English in origi/n if
not in publication. Many copies of Shakespeare are
called for (the Is. edition) and the Queen's Journal is to
be had for Is. 3d. A rough countryman in home-spun
garments came in to purchase little illustrated cards for
Sunday Schools, and as he turned them over in his large
labour-embrowned hands, we awarded him Tennyson's
palm of renown : — " Kind hearts are more than coronets."
As an instance of routine, I was told that only the best
writing-paper was enquired for, and that by the ofl&cers
in gar-rison, and the Government officials, to the latter of
whom it cost nothing. I found capital horses here, as
you might expect to do in a region where there is no rail,
where road and river are the only pathways of locomotion.

epart on
3 said to
i people,
. Tbese
hich, all
,he banks

>unting a
rht little
bit angles,
■ees. My
province,
runswick ;
by. Many
le here for
: summer-
3ed by ice.
one or two
e bad been
3 learn bis
in origin if
Bpeare are
)urnal is to
home-spun
sd cards for
In his large
Tennyson's
1 coronets."
ly the best
the officers
the latter of
ses here, as
re is no rail,
locomotion.

It was my plan to penetrate through the heart of New
Brunswick, and to strike the St. Lawrence at Eevifere du
Loup ; in fact to follow the route taken by the British
troops in 1862. The river is sometimes navigable in flat-
bottomed boats as far as Grand Falls, but as the waters
were low this summer, our steamer could go no higher
than Woodstock, sixty-five miles above Frederickton.
The " Gazelle" was a primitive vessel in construction,
very different to the steamers running on the lower part
of the river. At intervals her bow was turned to the
shore to take on board a load of wood for her furnace.
The burning logs of oak and maple kept the steam in her
boilers at a pressure of 951bs. per inch, and from this in
turn there went forth life and power to her groaning:
engine. She had neither screw nor side- wheel, but was
propelled by a curious paddle at the stern. We embarked
in the cool of the morning. But soon the sun rose, and there
followed one of the hottest days I ever remember. The
banks of the river were high and covered with endless
forests ; most of the way from Tobique the St. John runs
through a succession of gorges. In some lonely spot,
where the banks relaxed their steepness, our captain
would r un his vessel close to the shingle, here embarking
a passenger, there landing a cargo of stores. At mid-
day we pass the rapids. The river falls here a great
deal ; you can see the slope of the waters with the naked
eye, A bar of granite runs across beneath. Government
have expended large sums of money in reducing the
obstruction by blasting, but sufficient remains to tease
the passing waters into constant anger. Flut-bottomed
boats of light draft, now p5s& up regularly.

The scenery is constantly changing. Now the river is
dotted with wooded islands ; now immense rafts of timber
come floating down the stream. Some are dropping down

«i4

■ llUlft

gently with the current ; others more intent on progress
have hoisted a sail. Upon all the larger rafts are pitched
the lumberers' tents, hr the deck of lashed-timbers is for
the time-being their Lome. Thon we are on the watch
for the mouth of the "Narrows," on the western
side, where a large river is compressed, as it were
"multum in parvo" at the outlet. Through a straightened
passasre of rocks, it tumbles its waters, all foam and fury,
into the St. John. Then the scene changed again. In
a region which resembles the Scottish Highlands, I was
shown the grave of General Armstrong and his wife, who
have won a " nom celebre" as pioneer- settlers. Forests
extend as far as the eye can reach, but their reign is no
longer undisputed. Thb hand of man is against them ;
farmsteads and "clearings" attest his growing victories
year by year. At Woodstock I leave the water for a
while, with a feeling, that taken all in all, there is no
where in the world finer river- scenery than the St. John.
My stopping-point is a quiet little town, only a few
miles from the Maine-frontier. The people are like the
Yankees in talk, sharpness and manners. Eunning back
from the river, on both sides, there is excellent farming-
land to be won from the wilderness. What has been
already achieved in the struggle, points to what may yet
be accomplished. In the lower parts of the province
fair cleared-land may be bought for £1 per acre. I spent
some time with a kind farmer above Woodstock. His
grandfather was one of the Loyalists who came from the
United States to New Brunswick in the American
Eevolution. Rather than desert the old flag, he left his
home, and faced the difficulties of a settler's life in the
then forest-covered province. The good patriarch
bequeathed his loyalty as an heirloom ; for when my host
saw the Prince of Wales, though the Prince was but a

'Ogress
pitched
rs is for
e watch
western
it were
Lghtened
md fury,
;ain. In
ds, I was
wife, who
Forests
eign is no
nst them ;
y victories
ater for a
there is no
e St. John,
only a few
tre like the
nning back
it farming-
it has been
lat may yet
le province
•e. I spent
[stock. His
te from the
American

.., he left his
['s life in the
d patriarch
[hen my host
ce was but a

boy, he felt that to die for him would be easy and light.
The good people of New Brunswick are complaining
about what I bel: ve to be a real grievance. They desired
that the projected Intercolonial Railroad should run
through their province from St. John to Reviere du Loup,
so as to open up their lands to emigration and to men of
enterprise. But the Canadian Catholics voted to a man
for its going round through the scattered French hamlets
along the north shore, and the British Home-Government
would not sanction a plan for the rail to pass so near the
United States boundary. If carried through the south-
east of New Brunswick it would be within thirty miles
of the Maine-frontier. The railway is estimated to cost
15,000,000 dollars or £3,000,00u. The money has already
been wholely or in part raised under an Imperial
guarantee. It will never pay more than working-
expenses. Its mission, commercially, will be almost nil,
and its principal use will be the conveyance of troops in
winter from Halifax, Nova Scotia, to Montreal. Along
the North Shore, the engineers will find serious difficulties
to be overcome in bridging the river and estuaries. The
rail will pass through a district where the little commerce
that there is (fishing) will from its nature, always be
better and more economically discharged by ships.
Patting this argument aside however, it seems to me the
highest wisdom to throw over any petty jealousy against
the United States, and so open up to emigration and
trade a section of New Brunswick which is far more
valuable and habitabla than the cold, dreaiy North
Shoro.

To return to the question of farming in New
Brunswick. It would pay well if the settlers would only
farrrif and not meddle with lumbering. The native-
farmers have yet to learn to be persevering and economi-

c<i' ; and to be careful to keep their cattle warm in winter.
They should store up the manure, bo that the melting-
snow cannot carry it off. For this purpose they ought
to construct tanks and manure-sheds for keeping it till
spring. Scotch farmers who have settled here and there
in the province, have by their attention to these points
achieved success. In clearing forest-land for cultivation,
the trees must be cut down, not in wvnt&rf for then the
sap is in such a state that the stumps will sprout again ;
whereas in cutting for lumber only, winter, the season of
deep, hard snow is the time. Honey is plentiful in this
province, and in the adjoining State of Maine. You often
notice near the barns, a little wooden box placed at the
top of a long pole. This dove-coat residence is the
"home of the martins," which birds are strictly preserved
in New Brunswick, the farmers considering them as their
friends. Salmon-apearing by torch-light is one of the
river-sports here, I saw it frequently on the higher
waters of the St. John. The game is no less exciting from
being noiseless. A pan of lighted pine-knots is placed
in the bow of the canoe to attract the fish. If the salmon
runs from the boat, you have a good chance to spear it ;
if towo/rd the boat, it is often too sharp for the harpooner
to catch it. The season for salmon-catching is now
restricted by law to certain months in the year.

I missed the stage at Woodstock and was obliged to
continue my journey in the best way I could. I left the
supper-table at the Cable House to step into a very non-
descript vehicle. The night was cold, the roads bad, and
our course lay through gloomy woods. Some of my
fellow-travellers began recounting deeds of robbery and
crime, and telling ghost-stories : — themes so very
appropriate, A nervous old party appealed to me with a
jiope that my revolver was kept at the " ready." By and

y inter,
elting-
' ougbt
g it till
d there
3 points
ivation,
jhen the
i again ;
leason of
l1 in this
ou often
ed at the
e is the
ireserved
Q as their
ne of the
lo higher
ting from
is placed
le salmon
spear it ;
larpooner
y is now

•

obliged to
I left the
very non-
Ls bad, and
me of my
)bbery and
8 ao very
•rne with a
By and

by the prattle ceased ; a kind-hearted woodsman gave up
one of his rags to me, and I made myself more
comfortable ; but in our jolting and constrained position,
sleep was out of the question. At Florenceville we stayed
for a short time to feed the horses, A party of rough
men came in to liquor. I was afraid of our driver
becoming " half-seas over," but he seemed to know to a
thimble-fuU how much was good for him, and then he laid
down on the floor and went to sleep. I loused him after
awhile, and we continued our journey. At day-break,
dense mists rested like showers of smoke on the hill-tops.
It wa , f ne sight to watch them gradually scattered by
the c j's rays.

My night-ride tci^nated at Tobique. This secluded
hamlet takes its name from a river which here enters the
St. John. It has a dual name ; those who prefer English
to Indian nomenclature, call it Andover. There could
not well be a greater contrast than this little town among
the . ountains, and its namesake in Buckinghamshire.
I bore a letter of introduction to a gentleman who resides
here. His duties as Senator necessitate a frequent
sojourn near the Parliament-Palace at Ottawa, but when
official cares permit, he hastens home to his lake-land
villa. Memory unrolls a page of never-dying history ;
carrying us back to the English parent-town. I see its
representative stepping forth as the champion of liberty,
fearless of prison or fine. His pleading fails to move an
ill-starred king. Then he dons a helm and girds on a
sword ; and on the battle-field gains a martyr's crown.
John Hampden has long been dead, but '*he still
speaketh" to the Anglo-Saxon nations. The spirit of the
grand old Puritan is enshrined in every wave of freedom,
waves which with varying intensity have rolled, jvr%i
over every shire of Britain, and jr(ym thence with the

^mmmmmmm

English tongue to the "uttermost parts of the earth."
Andover is the "sesame," which opened to me r 'iberty-
" vision" in the wilds of New Brunswick. If I mistake
not, Americans and Provincials spend their lives in
adding to the strength of Hampden's motto, "nulla
vestigia retrorsum."

At breakfast, in a very humble room of the rough
tavern, I met a frank young Englishman and his wife.
The conversation turned upon India, in which country
he had resided for twelve years. He enquired after
Governor Wilmot and the British troops in Halifax and
St. John. We went out for a stroll by the river-side ;
then I found that my pleasant companions were Sir
Henry and Lady Havelock. They had come in from
Canada via Reviere du Loup, bound on a little tour
through the Province. Our roads were divergent, they
going South, I North. After a pleasant chat we shook
hands, and they entered a small birch-bark canoe. Seated
on rugs, they seemed admirable exemplars of the roving
habits of our country-men and country-women ; he
dressed in a suit of tweed, she in a gipsey straw-hat and
linsey-dress for river and forest travel. ** If I can be of
service to you in Montreal when you visit it, I shall be
glad," were Sir Henry's parting words. A couple of
native boa^-men would take them down the river to
Woodstock, and land thom there in the evening. The
Tobique Indians are honest, intelligent fellows ; I am
told that they are to be trusted anywhere.

After seeing the canoe off down the river, our driver,
a good-hearted Canadian, drove Kirkpatrick, the woods-
man and myself in an open- waggon through the forests,
over the hills to Grand Falls. A little distance from the
glen of Tobique we come in sight of the Aroostook, a
tributary of the St. John. Solitude reigned upon its

earth."
Aberty-
mistake
[ives in
<< nulla

le rougb

bis wife.

L country

'ed after

lifax and

ver-side ;

■were Sir

5 in from

ittle tour

gent, tbey
we shook

^e. Seated
he roving

omen; he

iw-hat and

I can be of
, I shall be
couple of
le river to
ning. The
ows; I am

our driver,
the woods-
the forests,
Lce from the
k.roo8took, a
jd upon its

banks, enlivened only by the flight of river- fowl, and the
defiant croak of thj wild-goose. Across the stream, at
intervals, are placed piers of wood. They are secared in
their places by the pressure of cradles loaded with stones..
To these piers a boom is anchored. This arrests the
downward progress of logs of timber which are thrown
into the stream higher-up by the lumberers. In the diuii
thus formed, the logs are lashed together and gathered
into rafts. When the spring-freshets occur, the boom is
cut, and the rafts set free to float down the broad river.
At noon we stayed for a short time at a rough cabin on
the hills. It was inhabited by a French-woman who had
married an Indian husband. Poor exile from La Belle
France I She could atte npt but little of the display of
her nation, beyond covering the plank- walls of the shanty
with rough woodcuts from the old country.

Passing through a defile in the mountains, we entered
a glen as secluded as fabled " Sleepy Hollow." No one
would suspect the vicinity of a Spirit which never sleeps ;
yet when we look upon Grand Falls, we feel that in them
dwells the Genius of Unrest. Down comes the roaring
torrent, partly hidden in veils of mist which curl up wan
from the boiling maelstrom below. Onwai'd still is the
water-god's cry, as he leaps with Titan-force through a
tortuous gorge of rocks, which are piled on edge aa
sharplf as if man's hand had set them side by side. A
little fuifher 'md you see the whu'lpool- eddies ; where, in
deep holes which have been scooped by centuries of flood,
the treacherous waters are) spinning webs of snare and
pitfall. To them at least seems given the secret of
perpetual motion. In Spring, the river flushed with
innumerable runnels of melting snow rises twenty
feet ; then the scene is one of the wildest kind. The
lumberers come down in hundreds to pilot their treasures

of timber over the Falls into quiet waters again. It is a
dangerous time. The banks and rocks swarm with active
men, all innured to feats of daring. Armed with long
poles to guide the passage of the logs, they emulate each
other in acts of hardihood and skill. To touch only with
the tip of their poles, a floating trunk as it circles under
the Falls, or near the whirlpools, is the seal of instant
death to the holder, so great is the force and power of
the torrent. If a stick of timber but grazes the rock
ever so slightly, the collision dashes the hard oak or
walnut into a thousand splinters. Kirkpatrick told me
of a thrilling scene which he witnessed here last year.
A man fell into the torrent, but was saved by a fellow -
lumberer. His rescuer was a French Canadian^ who
with marvellous courage jumped in after his comrade.
Seizing him, both were providentially floated into a quiet
cove, whence the strong arms of their fellows completed
their deliverance. It was a noble deed, upon which few
men would have ventured. The drama occupied but a
few seconds of time, yet those moments were charged
Tfith the life or death of the brave actors.

Dividing the St. John, and splitting in twain the waters
of the Falls, is a sharp, jagged rock, weather-beaten and
black with storms. Tradition invests it with a melancholy
history. In early-times a party of Indians going up the
country, came to the west-bank of the St. John, some miles
belcw the Falls. They sent the squaws over the stream,
telling them to light fires at night to mark their camp. They
did so. The returning hunters, floating down the river
in their canoes, took the camp-lights as beacons.
Before either squaws or hunters found out the terrible
mistake, the canoes had been sucked into the vortex, and
drifted to destruction, with their freight of seventy or
eighty men. It is said that a dog once came over the

. It is a
Ltb active
vitb long
ilate eacb
only with
cles under
of instant
I power of
3 the rock
trd oak or
Lck told me
e last year.
)y afellow-
adian, wbo
LIS comrade.
, into a quiet
rs completed
»n which few
jupied but a
ere charged

Falls alive, but it was found to have become quite deaf.
The stream is spanned by a graceful suspeuBion-bridge.
The structure is elastic and springs under the foo*; It
is built almost entirely of timber, and contains as few
particles of iron as may be. This triumph of engineering
in wood was tested by a heavily-loaded waggon drawn
over it with ropes. It seems as sound and firm as ever
after its eight years of existence, having been completed
in 1860. A suspension-bridge with iron beams under the
roadway, preceded the present work, but they who planned
it miscalculated the resisting-power of metal in this
region of extreme temperatures. One frosty morning a
team was sharply driven upon it, the beams cracked, and
the whole mass, animate and inanimate, was buried in the
chaldron below. You return again and again to look on
the Falls, sight and sound preaching to you a grand
natural-sermon, ever speaking of the great Creator.

I was delivered into Mr. Thompson's care with rftrict
injunctions to treat me well as an Englishman. No where
in British North America was I more comfortably and
hospitably entertained than at the little out-of- the- world
village of Grand Fallj. I found that my pleasant Tobique
acquaintances had vis: ted i^< on their way down. Here,
at Little Falls, and in Canada, he who bore Havelock's
name seemed to have won golden opinions ; and to be
invested with an inheritance of that tender respect which
the British public accords to the hero of Lucknow. In
the evening the master of the Grammar-school came into
ray parlour for a chat about the " old country" he so
longed to visit. He receives about £80 per ann. from
Government and a similar amount from the fees of bis
scholars.

The St. John now becomes the boundary-line between
the United States and New Brunswick. At Little Falls

itflweeps away to the westward towards its secret-springs;
for its birth-place lies amid the forests of Maine. Under
its Indian name of Waloostook it gathers feeders from
the lakes and tributaries from the hills, until it bursts
into British territory, a full-grown river.

I leave this beautiful stream with the feelings of a
Switzer when he leads his cattle from summer-pastures
to valleys below ; with the regret of a Norwegian herds-
man, as in autumn he turns away from the bright
*' seater" among the mountains. Swiss and Norseman
hope to see again with returning summer, Alpine-peak
and Sulitelma-slope. They will lead forth their fiocka
once more to green oasies amii the hills. Their song is,

wir kommeu wieder,
Wenn der Kuckuk ruft, wenn erwachen die Lieder
Wenn mit Rlumen die Erde sich klei let neu,
"Wenn die Briiiinlein flieszen im liebliuhen Mai.
Ours is a long farewell. I can never dream of seeing the
St. Job 7' again. Its glory and beauty are stamped upon
my memory well nigh as indelibly as the name of the
French fortress upon the English monarch's heai't. I
say with Schiller's herdsman, ** der Sommer ist hin,"
but it has left behind an autumn of golden reflections : —
Images and precious thoughts
That shall not die, and cannot be destroyed.

ll -—

springs ;
. Under
lers from
it buratB

inga of a
-pastures
an herds-

ae briglit
Norseman
pine-peak
beir ilocka
lir song is,

Lieder

ai.

t seeing the
mped upon
lame of the

8 heai't. I
3r ist hin,"

lections *. —

)d.

CAMPED WITH Tnt LUMBERERS.

"M WAS now to see something of "life in the woods."
(^ Eneli.^hmen who have wandered through the New

Forest in Hampshire, find themselves closed in with
serried ranks of beech and ash, sycamore and elm, with
the oak for king of trees. Taking your stand by Rufus's
atone, or treading the glades of Richmond Park or
Sherwood Chase you will witness a scene of woodland-
glory, which sui gcyuris, ca'anot be equalled in the world.
I have seen in my own country, trees so eld, so huge, so
grand, that I had thought to find the convpass-point
from the stained lichens and mosses on their gnarled
trunks. The American forest differs from the English ;
it is cast in a mould peculiarly its own. In the New
World the pine is king. You may call him white or red,
yellow or grey, spruce or hemlock ; you may even
dignify him by the names of cedar, silver fir or balm of
Gilead, but he is abies or jpinits still. He has a numerous
train of foil iwers. Oak and ash, walnut and basswood,
tamarac and cherry, bird's-eye maple and beech, elms of
rock and swamp, butternut and birch, wh^teviood and
hickory, poplar and gum, alder and moose-missa flourish
around him. They yield precedence however to the
ubiqL 3US tree which lays the line of forest architecture,
and turns the arches of leafy cathedrals. He always
keeps his dignity. When his proudest followers grow
fair.t by the way side, and change color before the nipping

V ll4

l|l|

''I

~ ti

breath of winter, be holds on his waj rejoicing. He
wears his colors summer and winter, as tenaciously as
the Sultan guards the sacred standard of the prophet ; as
proudly as Vich Alpine cherished his ever-green emblem.
"With Kirkpatrick for guide and companion, I
passed into the forest. Looking upon the hemlocks, I
understood the poet's description, " bearded with moss,"
and his likening them, to Diuids and harpers of olden
time. In the woods I learned to bind round my head the
leaves of wild pennyroyal, for its smell keeps off the vile
mosquitoes in glade and swamp. I dived into wood-
craft secrets and saw how the sable is trapped. It is a
gregarious animal, moving about in troops, and shifting
its feeding- grounds very often, still if it comes near the
snare which cunning old hunters have baited with
squirrel, it is pretty sure to fall a prey. Many of us have
seen a beaver at the Zoological Gardens, as much out of
its element on land, as a " fish out of water." A beaver-
dam is as interesting a study as a bee-hive, teaching us a
lesson of industry, crier and social government. But
the little fnrriers are allowed no peace or protection by
man. Their numbeis are constantly diminishing, as the
trapper wages subtle warfare against them. They are
allured to prison and death with decoys of alder and
poplar branches, so successfully, that you will hardly
find a real beaver-colony nearer than the wild lakes of
the Gatineau or the meres of Minnesota.

It IS now forbidden by law in New Brunswick to track
moose in winter on snow-shoes, but they are hunted in
summer by means of a call-cry. You roll a piece of
birch-bark into a horn or trumpet and blow through it —
at the sound the male moose will come from any distance,
crushing through the woods, thinking it is the female.
The hunter must be on the alert, for his quarry is terribly

Qg. He
ously as
phet; as
enablsm.
mion, I
ilocks, I
,h moss,"

of olden

bead the
af the vile

LtO WOOd-

. It is a
d shifting
!S near the
ited with
of us have
uch out of
A beaver-
iching us a
Lent. But
)tection by
ing, as the
They are
alder and
vill hardly
Id lakes of

ck to track
hunted in
a piece of
irough it —
ly distance,
the female.
Y is terribly

angry and dangerous when he finds himself deceived.
We sat on the grass one sunny autumn evening watchiig
a fish-hawk. Now on the wing, uttering a shrill cry,
now swooping down like a cannon-ball for his prey in
the stream, now rising with a fine salmon-trout in his
beak and making oflf into the woods. Many a time we
speculated on the result of his ventures, saying, **he
has it" or "ho has missed it." Then wo turned to
observe the success of an enthusiastic owl-hunter; we
need not have doubted his skill, for when he fired it was
certain death to a round-eyed bird of night.

We found a lumberers' camp upon the margin of the
stream. The men were engaged in their autumn work
of hauling stores up the river to the place of winter-
encampment. They have a hard time of it, for the boats
are heavily loaded, and the jor.rney is all "up stream ; "
the current is against them, not /or i^em, as in the down-
ward voyage. Their life is a very hard one. They live
in tents or rough shanties in the woods from September
to May, and spend six days out of the seven in chopping
down trees, and dragging them with horses or oxen
to the river.

When the snow melts, they leave the forest to bring their
timber down the rivers. They have often to stand in the
ice-chilled waters in spring to get the logs ofi" some rock
or projecting bank, and, as we have seen at Grand Falls,
they ai"e liable to be lost in the rapids. Fifteen or
twenty lives are yearly sacrificed in this manner on the
Ottawa, and no doubt on other rivers also. Yet this wild
life acquires a fascination for them, and they seldom
change their vocation. They are generous and reckless
like sailors, seldom married, but having a strong
** esprit de corps" among themselves. The chills of
spring, winter's biting fangs and summer heats tell upon

the strongest constitution. At forty to foity-five, when
they ought to be in the prime of life, they begin to break
up with rheumatism, and to suffer from the ''black
scurvy." The mournful remark "how rarely we see an
old sailor," is equally applicable to the class of men who
are lumberers.

Kirkpatrick himself, after nineteen years of life in the
woods, had been seized with scurvy in the head and failing
eye-sight, but more fortunate than many of his com-
panions, he had obtained a cure. He placed himself
under an old female ^sculapi us of the backwoods^ who
treated her patient in the following singular manner. For
seven weeks he lived on raw potatoes sliced, and as much
white rum, (or rum and water mixed in equal proportions)
as ho could take. Then she covered his head and neck
with a strong mustard plaster ; it took all the skin off ;
but she renewed the application with a fresh one ior ten
minutes, and the blood came streaming down his neck.
Finally she placed on the raw flesh green cabbage leaves,
and in a very short time her patient felt the dimness
<roin<r off, and soon he could see as well as ever. On his
neck grey hairs then grew. There was an originality
about the old woman's treatment, which struck mo
forcibly. In New England, a cure of quite a different
kind came under my notice. It was as follows. At
Yale picture-gallery the old man in attendance showed
me his hand. A cancer half an inch high and the size
of a silver dollar had formed upon his palm. He had it
burnt off by means of the sun's rays acting through a lens
ten inches in diameter. The flesh blazed and he
suffered acute pain, but endured two-thirds of the oper-
ation (in all one hour) without chloroform. The doctor
who treated him had been studying the question for forty
years. Best of all, the injured hand seemed getting well
rapidly.

re, wben
to break
. "black
ve see an
men who

life in the
,nd failing
his corn-
id himself
oods^ who
nner. For
a as much
•oportions)
i and neck
Le skin off ;
)ne ior ten
1 his neck.
,age leaves,
le dimness
^r. On his
originality
struck mo
a diflerent
allows. At
nee showed
ind the si/e
He had it
■ough a lens
ed and he
Df the oper-
The doctor
ion for forty
getting well

Kirkpatrick was the foreman or captain of a ganjjf of
seventy men, and he was on his way up country to form
the winter camp. We haveheard ofthelarge consumption
of tea among Australian shepherds and stockmen ;
and coming nearer home it is reported that the women of
Shetland are equally fond of it. The latter are so prodigal
in its use, as to pay as much in duty upon tea, as the rent
received by the proprietors of the Islands. Lumberers
in British North America are equally great at ** tea-
drinking," for a very good reason, they cannot obtain
spirits in the woods. Unfortunately many of them forget
their temperance habits when obey come into the towns in
autumn ; like Jack ashore, they must have a ** bit spree,"
w hen they have opportunity, I was told by the captain of
a gang of 170 lumberers, that his employers had begun to
send out tea from England in preference to buying it in the
United States. "No market in the world," says he
"can be depended upon for tea but London." The
British merchants were earliest in the field in the China
trade, and they then organized a system of having tasting
officers. This gave them a superiority which they have
kept, in the face of much competition from the merchants
of the United States. In the camp of my informant, 80 lbs.
English tea were found equal to 180 lbs. of Unioed States
importing, and the smaller quantity made the best
beverage.

With Mr. C. the manager for a large British firm in
the lumber trade, I had a long chat. He told me that
his father had been agent for the Marquis of Braedalbane
in far away Scotland. It seemed strange to find our-
selves talking about old country scenes in the backwoods
of New Brunswick. Mr. C. remarked that at the time
feirWalter Scott wrote his beautiful description of Malrose,
he had never seen the abbey by moonlight. The great
complaint among woodsmen now, is the difficulty of

obtaining timber oi first growth. The British firm alluded
to, paid 20,000 dollars last year to the United States
for lumber dues in Maine, and their manager left us iu
the morning in a canoe, bound for the head waters of the
St. John to prospect for more spoil. Trees of second
growth are of course inferior in size, and the wood when
cut up is found full of knots. The planks have a " glassy"
surface, into which white paint will not sink, but shells
off. Speaking of paint reminds me that it is a very
important article of commerce, seeing that every frame-
house in the land aspires to receive an annual coat. Zinc
is now largely used for this purpose. It is a beautiful
color at first, almost white as snow, and has no smell?
but it is not so durable as white lead.

Kirkpatrick took me to a farai house in a distant
clearing, to look at ** the finest rug in the country." Its
possessc • had been seventeen years in accumulating
materiak ^or it, and had himself tanned the skins with
an infusion jf wild sumach leaves. His daughter Lucelle
brought out the treasure for my inspection. It was a
piece of mosaic-work in skins — black and white, red and
grey, brown and tortoise-shell all mingled together like
squares on a chess-board. I was desired to guess what
animals had contributed their winter coats to the sampler,
and after many unsuccessful attempts, I was enlightened
by the word " chat." It was true enough — the rug was
entirely composed of the skins of wild cats, which had
been shot in the woods.

During the long winter months there are few visitors
at a lumberers' camp. Now and then a trapper will pass
by, taking a meal and sharing a blanket for one night
with the exiles. If a minister, like the enthusiast of
the American backwoods, ever penetrates into the forest,
his preaching will be literally ** as the voice of one crying

m alluded
ed States
left us ill
tersofthe
of second
rood when
, " glassy"
but shdls

is a very
ery frame-
oat. Zinc
I beautiful

no smelU

^ a distant

intry." Its
cumulating

skins with
iter Lucelle
It was a
ite, red and
)gether like

guess what
jhe sampler,

enlightened

ihe rug was
which had

few visitors
per wiil pass
)r one night
nthusiast of
to the forest,
of one crying

in the wilderness." Occasionally a priest finds his way
into camp, to receive the confessions of such rough men
as have any to make, and also to levy subscriptions upon
his Catholic flock for the new church of St. Denis, or for
the restoration of the Convent of *'Our Lady of the
Holy Heart."

A brotherhood of ascetic men had come out into the
woods near Little Falls, and established a monastery.
Their rudely fashioned house of logs is a burlesque upon
the strong-boxes of stone and mortar, in which their co-
religionists had established themselves in England and
Scotland when Henry the Eighth and John Knox began
to disturb them. The blasts of winter enter the dwelling
in full force through open chinks in the walls, and the
poor monks shiver and turn blue with cold. You would
think this punishment to be penance in full ; surely they
might strike a balance sheet thus, Dr., vows of humilia-
tion. — Cr., the patient endurance of an Arctic winter.
But no, they must eat no meat, they must drink no milk,
they must live only upon vegetables. The nine devotees
who compose the order of brotherhood, have bound
themselves, jointly and severally, as the lawyers say, to
speak only one at once. During the hour given up to
brother A, B and his seven comrades may not reply
orally to questions. Signs are their only refuge, until
the sun-dial shall have marked the death of one cycle
and the commencement r*" another, when B, and in turn C,
shall become the Demosthenes of the camp. One of
them was felling a tree in the woods, with his head
hooded in linen on a bitterly cold day, but to Kirk-
patrick's humane suggestions he could only reply by
signs. Poor men, they believe they are in the path of
duty, as sincerely as the suttee on the funeral pyre, or
the victim of Jaggernaut's car.

Joi
Rii
poi
Qu(
Fre

to-(
at t.

I Bl

lan^
a be
Joh:
to a
Ipe
the (
ban
each
beco
Thei
econ
was!
comi
and^

ACEOSS THE BOEDERS.

(31 T Grand Falls we leave behind us the Saxon settle-
(^ ments. We pass into the country of Madawaska.
Joined to it are the districts of Eestigouche, Bonaventure,
Rimouski, Temiscouata and Gaspe, which with that
portion of Canada extending from Rivifere du Loup to
Quebec and Montreal, were all originally settled by
French emigrants. Qualify the Gallic title with
" Canadian," and you have a description of the people of
to-day.

"Can you speak French" said my driver, as we stopped
at the open door of a shanty ten miles from Grand Falls ?
I stepped mside, and used the "sesame" of native
language with success. The good dame quickly produced
a bowl of milk for myself, and a mug of brown cream for
John Hart, whom I had noticed turning his eyes lovingly
to a comer of the hut, where stood a demi-john of rum.
I petted le jpetit enfant in its cradle, and quietly mastered
the details of the homely scene. The house was a rough,
barn-like structure, made of trunks of trees notched into
each other at the comers. Constructers of shanties
become well versed in the art of building "four-square."
There were few partitions within ; the routine of domestic
economy is performed in one general room : eating,
washing, cooking and sleeping all take place near a
common centre. On a fine day the housewife carries kits
and pans into the more roomy and sweeter kitchen of the

open air. Bhe bakes the family store of bread in a mud
oven, in the sdmo alfresco style. In close proximity to
the shanty are oM-fashioned barns and cow-houses.
Amongst the scanty furniture of the house, a spinning
wheel holds rank. By means of it, the women work up
flax and v/ool into yam. This in turn ^s woven into
rough fabrics, from which the shirts and dresses worn
by the family are manufactured. At my special request
a distaff and wheel were brought out from their hiding-
place. They had been part of the household goods of
some ancestral emigrant from France. The night of such
antiquities carried us back a long while in the stream of
time. "We were minded of the Roman matron, — who,

* • as she plied the distaff,
In a sweet voice and low,

• * sang of great old houses,
And fights fought long ago.

Some of the young women still wear the Coucntin lace
caps, and kirtles such as were common in Brittany in the
reign of Henri Quatre. The people are very careless,
yet merry and light-hearted. They will have more mirth
and real enjoyment over a single bottle of rum, served
out in homoeopathic quantities at a feast, than a Scotchman
would derive from the acquisition of 20 dollars. The
" habitants" as a race are small. They lack the physical
development of the English Canadians. They have a pale,
worn look, as if suffering from ill-health, yet they are
cheerful, and rarely found wanting in hospitality to
a stranger. They will give him food and the best
accommodation their house affords, often putting them-
selves to discomfort the whi?' . The people of the Maine-
frontier, in the United States, are of the same stock and
habits. They and the Madpwaska people are all related
by blood or marriage.

nud
y to
ises.
ning
'kup
into
worn
quest
ding-
ods of
,f sucb
earn of
vbo,

bin lace
ly in tbe
areless,
:e mirtb
, served
)tchnian
3. The
physical
re a pale,
ihey are
lality to
|the best
ig tbem-
le Maine-
itock and
LI related

My driver told me that during the American ^Var, a party
of Confederate prisone-s, (who had escaped from their
guards,) came down from Canada through Madawaska,
to St. John, en route for Halifr^x. As they pas. :d along tiie
road, on British ground, they could see United States' tei*-
ritory, (for Maine lay over the river) ; they wished to make
a raid over, and burn some of the Yankee villages as they
called them, but they were restrained by fear of British law.

As we pass way-side clearings, I notice fields of oats,
barley, potatoes and flax, with lar^e patches of buckwheat,
and a great number of hogs about the homesteads. The
women toil in the fields and acquire a wan, withered look,
but they are very kind and polite. I dined at a French
house on soup and barley bread, and after a short siesta
pushed on again. In the afternoon we passed over Green
River, so called from the tint of its waters, which are said
to take their color from the strata of bed and banks
through which they flow. The road winds through
densely wooded valleys, some point of vantage now and
then affording us a glimpse of Blue Belle Hill, and far away
Green River Mountain. We met his " reverence" the
priest driving out in his gig. Seeing John returning his
salute in a very respectful manner, I made the remark,
"If the priest does his duty and visits his flock who are
scattered over a large parish, he must lead a hard and
self-denying life." " Hard life, indeed," said John in
strong language, "how is it that priests always grow so
fat? I tell you they take precious good care to live well
and do little." We are accustomed to lay the charge of
frog-eating at the doors of our French neighbours, but it
is a ]proces with which Canadians would also stand
indicted. You may enjoy a dish of grenouille verte at
Quebec as well as in Paris. The hind legs only are
eaten, and are esteemed a delicacy. ^Persons who

fatten the little jumpers for market, are said to do
well out of the occupation in a commercial point of view.

We drove past the rapids where the Madawaska after
flowing down from its birth-place near Eagle , Lake,
tumbles its waters into the St. John. In the hamlet of
Little Falls I came in for an excellent supper of buckwheat
pancakes served with molasses, Indian corn cakes,
strawberries sweetened with maple sugar, and a dish of
cream. I called upon Mr. H, the owner of the only store
in the village, to ask a question about the mails. He
gave me the desired information, and then observing that
I was an Englishman, offered to show me the points of
interest round Little Falls. Meanwhile "would I walk
in his garden and help myself to some fruit, or would I
rest in his house until he could leave the store to accom-
pany me." I gladly availed my self of his kindness. His
store seemed to supply all the miscellaneous wants of the
people ; his stock ranged from a button or a pin, to a cart
wheel or a pair of sledge runners. Small as is the hamlet,
it is a great centre for trade. The predecessor and
brother-in-law of Mr. H. realised a handsome fortune
here.

In 1839-40 the British Government built a strong
stockade on a hill overlooking the Falls. Danger was
brewing between the United States and England, about
the question of boundaries, and war seemed imminent.
The dispute was amicably settled in 1842 by the Ashburton
treaty; America ceding certain lands on the Maine
frontier to New Brunswick, and England surrendering
some territory south of Lake Ohamplain and also certain
fishing rights. Then the British troops were removed
from Little Falls, and the stockade has been untenanted
since. It was an easy thing to climb up on to the ruined
walls, to look from their elevation upon the country

do
iew.
ifter
idke,
let of
yheat)
akes,
isbof
store
. He
g that
Lnts of
I walk
ould I
jxjcotn-

i. His
softbe
a cart
bamlet,
or and
brtune

strong
ger was

about
ininent.
hburton

Maine
ndering
) certain
removed
tenanted
le rained
country

*»

round, and then the question, how to descend, became
serious. However, with a little timely help audaplank, the
retreat was safely accomplished. The people of western
Maine and eastern New Brunswick are so assimilated in
manners and relationships, that small coins of the United
States' mint are freely taken here at par, whereas, in
other parts of the Dominion they are only accepted at a
discount.

I wishenl to catch the St. Lawrence steamer, and was
therefore obliged to continue the journey by night. My
honest driver John Hart spread some buffalo rugs for me
in his wagon, yoked his French horses, and drove off
into the darkness. We soon crossed the New Brunswick
Boundary and entered Canada. From the point where
the two provinces intersect each other, a capital road has
been formed to Kivi^re du Loup. It was constructed by
Government, and 400 or 500 men were employed upon it
for several years. In one part an extensive bog is crossed.
The difficulties of this uncertain ground were overcome
by laying across the swamp a substratum of cedar boughs,
upon which the road is formed. On each side, shaking
plants and trembling grasses indicate the treacherous
nature of the adjoining ground. "We halted for an hour
at a farm-house on the margin of Lake Temiscouata,
(pronounced Tomisquati,) close by an old wooden block-
house which once served the settlers well against Indian
raids. This species of rude fortress, once so common in
the Province, is now seldom seen.

After our night-dour we came up to breakfast at
Le Bells — a French house thirty-six miles from the St.
Lawrence. The host comes in smiling, to report that his
name and mine are the same except the " Le." The last
stage of this memorable overland journey is now entered
upon. For many miles we ride almost continuously

through forest-lands ; occasionally sighting tho tin
covered spire of a Catholic church, or a small cluster of
cabins. The houses of the* 'habitants" are small and
rude, the implements of husbandry clumsy and heavy.
Worst of all, the ed ication of the people is at a low ebb.
A few convents ofFor means of instruction to a limited
circle, but as a rule the children grow up '*very dark"
in mptters of learning. Parents seem careless on the
subject, and though there are good Protestant schools in
the Province of Quebec, they as Catholics, very naturally
forbid their children attending them.

There is no hiding the truth that the French settle-
ments are far behind the British sections in enterprise.
Observing men tell us that the renown of La France
itself is only upheld in these days, by a fusion of Teuton
with Gallic blood. Schneider, the President oi the Corps
Legislatif ; and the great champagne merchants are men
of mixed race. If the Empire can only be saved from
abroad, how much more the Dominion of New France ?
AVe are accustomed to regard the laud laws in England
with disfavour because of their restrictive tendency.
Among the " habitants" of Canada, the law is allowed to
run to the other extreme in laxity. The young folks
marry early; the girls at fifteen, the men at nineteen.
The father divides and sub-divides his land, until the
holding of each is reduced to a cottier's portion. The
Anglo-Saxon or the Scotchman pushes into new fields of
labour, to win an inheritance that shall not be a sub-
division, but an equal one with his father. We are very
tolerant of all religions, but we are bound to say that in
our opinion, the priest must go out £nd the free Bible be
brought in, before Canada East will take its place abreast
of the Canada of the Saxons.

A bright little town smile& upon us at our journey's
end. On the banks of Bivicre du Loup stands a settle-
ment of the same name. A glance shows you the trir.*
houses girded by verandahs, the dainty ways and the
French parlance of the people. The oldest dwellers'
great, great grandfathers in the second degree, called the
stream Wolfs River, but now you will find no wolf
nearer than Anticosti, or the wilds of Labrador. I part
with kind-hearted Hart at the pier on the Bay. His
horses had carried us 81 miles in 19 hours, with four
hours only allowed for food and rest. I never expect to
hear of such a feat of equine endurance on this side of
the Atlantic, I remember that Stuart's cavalry once
made a raid into Maryland, riding their ponies 80 miles
in 24 hours. I could not credit it then — now I believe
it.

A hamlet of wooden houses has sprung up on the bank

of the St. Lawrence near Riviere du Loup. It is called
Cacouna, and already it has won a celebrity of its own as
a place of summer resort. Cool nights are the secref of
its attraction. It is fronted across the river by the
gorge of the Saguenay, down which, as through a huge
air-pipe are transmitted reviving winds spiced with
froideur in the regions of the Pole. When Quebec
and Ottawa are glowing day and night with the heat of an
oven, Cacouna offers a lower temperature by 16° or 20%
and guarantees cool nights. What wonder, that well to
do Canadian families flock to a place where sleep is
possible, where they can rejuvenate a worn constitution.
They adopt a very sensible plan. Instead of being great
at display and extravagance; each villa marina is famed
for simplicity and comfort. Floors are earpetless;
bedrooms are curtainless ; a more kindly genius takes
the place of luxury, health and sound sleep are blessings
far more precious.

tob

stre

ban]

stra

*'U]

casti

as hi

the «

life.

ladie

watci

Beau

brun

blue I

even

Tado

regio:
world
grani;
and p
tracec
hurle(

CORUISK GLOOM.

(31 FLOAT OD the St. Lawrence I Its patron saint, (if
(^ ever he existed,) would have joyed for such a river
to bear his name. Eighty leagues from its Tiiouth, the
stream is twenty-six miles wide as the oto^p aies. From
bank to bank is a greater distance across, than the
strait which soparaies Dover from Calais. The steamer
*' Union" makes ihe passage in an hour and a half, and
casts anchor at Tadoussac.

This little watering-place on l)he North shore, ie almost
as high in fiavor as Oacouna on the South. The arrival of
the "Union" is an event in the daily routine of its summer
life. You would think so, did you se<3 the bevy of bloomiag
ladies assembl^id on the landing-stage. Each one Ik on the
watch tc welcome father, husband or friend from the city.
Beauty of Anglo-Saxon type is iairly strewn with darker
brunettes of the lower province. Auburn hair and bright
blue eyes mingle with raven tresses and black eyes. Not
even the ladies of St. John can surpass in loveliness
Tadoussac's summ'^r visitors.

We step on shore for a ramble. The rocky
region round seems the remnant of an unshaped
world ; a fossilised leaf of chaos. Huge mountains or
granite, thrust out broad, white breasts amid green firs
and purple stained rif :s. You would think the Deluge
I traced those runes upon the rock. Perchance some Titan
hurled those boulders from the mountain tops. Golden

•samphire and pale tormentil are growing in yon crevice.
Grey lichens, tinged with silver and violet, cling on the
topmost crags. The scene wears a giant's angry frown,
dimpled with an elfin smile. "Were moss and leaf con-
sumed, the gorge would be a Sinai. "We may linger on
the spot till sun-down. Peering for the Labrador stone
in coves of shingle, which tiny though they are, the great
sea never fails to visit morning and evening with its tides ;
or scrambling up the rocks for a coveted flower, the time
goes by until the steamer's bell summons us on board.
The sailors lighten their labours by singing songs of
France, while inside, music and ballad join to enliven
evening hours.

At midnight the " Union" enters the jaw the

p«ss. "We liken the Saguenay's noon-day s^o^xie to
Coruisk gloom ; — its midnight leer is as Styx amid
the " ever during dark" of Hades. Morning opens
the ball with storms of thunder and lightening. The
Spirit of solitude seems to hurl defiance at those who
would penetrate her hidden places. Thunderbolt and
fire-flash only add to the grandeur of a scene we have
come so far to look upon. The artist at my side is
delighted at such elemental conflict. Mr. Ince would
hazard still more, to look upon his great Mistress
Nature in all her moods. "With Church, he would mount
the Andes, and peer under the prismatic mist-bows of
Niagara ; with Kane, he would glide upon the ice-floes ;
with Herbert, climb the steeps of Sinai ; with Agassiz,
float by the water-lilies of the Amazon. His desire shall
be partially granted. Within the coming thirty days he
will gaze on many a glorious scene. He will watch grand
Bur H-^ts, tipping the Laurentian Mountains ; he will look
upon crystal lakes and scenes of forest glory ; he will

the
.le to
amid
opens
The
who
It and
have
jide is
would
istresa
mount
0W8 of
floes;
gassizi
e shall
ays he
grand
ill look

stand by the world's mightiest cataract. Then he will go
home, with a heart brim-full of Nature; with photographs
of the realf displacing the false in his "chambers of
imagery."

The storm has expended its force. A rim of sun-light
settles upon the waters of Ha Ha Bay. Now for a
run on shore ! We will peep into the domains of the
Hudson's Bay Company. We have time for a hasty
inspection of the trading-posii. A long low building
serves as store and reception-room. In spring, its stands
are piled with peltries of sable and ermine, beaver and
martens, which we would venture a good round sum to
possess. Our visit was paid during the " latter days" of
the Company's existence. It is now settled that the vast
territory which they ruled, shall pass over to Canada.
The old Charter of Stuart Kings must give way to the
interests of the Dominion. In cabins round the Bay,
dwell settlers, Scottish Highlanders and French
Canadians, who accord to each other the rights and
hospitalities of neighbourship. The steamer's bow is
turned down the stream, the shelving shores recede, and
there gradually opens before us a scene akin to the
wildnesf. of Skye —

Nor tree, nor shrub, nor plant, nor flower.
Nor aught of vegetative power the weary eye
May ken, but all is rocks at rt 'ndom thrown,
Black waves, bare crag, and hanks of stone.
Perpendicular rocks rise en either side. You search
their rugged slopes in vain for flower or bloom. Not even
a blue fringed gentian can be seen. At a little distance
the hills seem clad in black and purple, but as you draw
nearer, they become green with moss, dwarf maples, and
stunted flrs. Cape Trinity towers 1,500 feet aloft, bare
of vegetation; answering with a hundred echoes the

shriek of our whistle, and the roar of ouv carronade.
Cape Eternity is not so high, and it is wooded to some
extent. Our ship passes close in, near its granite face,
almost touching the rock, yet safe from harm, the water is
80 deep. Going out at its mouth, feels like emerging from
a pass in the mountains, or from a gloomy cavern.

How shall we rank this phenomenon of nature? It
cannot be a river, for its bed is far deeper than the St.
Lawrence into which it flows. Its waters struggle
moodily at the entrance, before they will cast in their lot
with floods that smell of brine. No eagle sails above
its crags ; no deer drinks from its stream. The seal goes
down with sullen plunge, but no bottom will it find
within the gloomy gorge. No frolicking rapids break
its sombre way ; no carolling current tells of gladsome
life. The silvery sunshine never wins reflection from its
inky waters. Its grandeur springs from death, not life.
It is a fiord set within its bounds of mica-schist ; an
inland cavern meet for storm-carnival ; a water-desert
where heaven's artillery may expend its fury, and leave
no sign. The Saguenay is Nature's Torso — having no
murmur of life, no ripple of progress. The scenery is
awfully grand, but as yet photographers have not found
it worth while to picture for us every spot — the verdure-
less slopes — the beetling clifi's of Eternity and Trinity.
I often regretted that the wildest glens of Nova Scotia
and New Brunswick have not been copied by the artist.
There is hope, however, for Mr. Henderson, of Montreal
told me that he intended to start on a photographic
mission to ^lihe provinces, as soon as he found a convenient
season. Mr. Creemer, of Philadelphia remarked to me
that few photographs of American scenery are so good as
those of Paris and Scotland. He accounted for this by
saying, that the light in America is drier and harder, not

so subdued as in England and on the Continent.

Sunsets in North Eastern America are unrivalled in
splendour. Not even the Mediterranean can wrest this
palm of honor from the St. Lawrence. We gazed upon
such an one to-night. The sun had shone brightly, but
in yon gloomy pass, his light was fitful, bis rays were
feeble. We have been exiles from his noon-tide radiance,
he offers the amende honorable in an evening glory. He
bends a bow of silver and fringes it with green ; he trims
a fire-lamp and feeds the flame with brands of orange,
gold and saffron: he dapples the sky with myriad roses,
pink and crimson blending ; he folds a cloud of grey and
sets it as a curtain, then rolls aside the veil and paints
the heavens with blue. You see no bar of diffeience
stretched from arch to arch ; the dimpled union of the
prism reigns from dome to dome. Upon the dead green
hills he lays a mantle of maroon, while in the gleaming
ocean mirror at our feet, serrated mountains are reflected.
We see a twin Laurentian range, — sierras tipped with
^Dlden brown upon the mainland — tinged with silver in
the river. Night falls upon the scene ; winds from a
polar circle moan among the hills ; and our anchor is
cast in Murray Bay.

At Tadoussac there was a frantic rush of passengers
onboard. Every corner of the ship was full. Scores of
ladies, unable to obtain berths, were compelled to form a
night encampment in the saloon. With all its discomforts
of over-crowding, however, our up-stream journey > ue
to an end. Morning dawns with eastern splendour.
Sensations of unrest vanish as we hasten on deck to revel
in visions of the rising monarch's handiwork. His advent
has roused the habitant villages into life. Each con-
vent's vane is tipped with a pencil of light ; each church

spire with a culm of silver. Light and shadow play at
hide and seek among the Isle of Orleans' glades. Mont-
morency's waters seem a flashing thread in the distance.
Along the Southern Shore are strewn house and barn and
church of many a French hamlet. Whither are we bound
upon this stream of streams ? The goal is in front of us,
a bright and shining mass. But we will first tell of others
who have sailed upon these waters.

In 1534 Jacques Cartier reached Gaspe Bay, where he
landed, and erecting a rude cross bearing a shield with
the ^eurs de lys of France, took possession of the country
in the name of his king. The following year he sailed
up the river, with his three small ships, and anchored
under the shadow of Cape Diamond. Leaving two of the
vessels there, in the other he ascended the stream as far
as the island on which Montreal now stands. Here and
there he found an Indian village, but the Iroquois and
Huron warriors who dwelt in them, had never before
seen a pale-face. He attempted to go further to the
Westward, but the rapids barred his advance. Cartier
went home, and the regions of New France, were left to
primeval solitude for three quarters of a century.

Then dawned an era of enterprise. A decade before
British emigrants began felling the Virginian forest at
Jamestown, or the Mayflower landed its pilgrims on
Plymouth Sands, a French expedition had sailed for the
St. Lawrence. Its object was colonization, its leader
Samuel de Champlain. In the summer of 1608 the
adventurers sighted a rocky rampart above the Isle of
Orleans, and are said to have exclaimed Qwe &ec, what a
beak ! It was the place where thei-* predecessor the
Breton navigator had halted — the hill on which now
stands Quebec. The Governor hoisted his standard on

shore, and his companions set about founding a new city
for the Bourbon Kings. For one hundred and thirty
years, with a slight intermission the national oriflamme
of its founders floated peacefully oyer the colony. Cham
plain passed down the Eichlieu River into the wilderness
of New York, and discovered the beautiful lake that bears
his name. Troops of voyageurs and cov^ev/rs de hois paddled
up the rivers, and ranged the forests for the precious
spoils to be found there. Bands of Jesuits followed, and
sometimes heralded, these hardy hunters, setting up their
mission-tents by the roar of Niagara, and in the wilds of
Mississippi and Minnesota. They struggled with the
zeal of enthusiasts against the dangers of the wilderness.
They braved the fangs of wild bef sts ; the perils of rapids ;
the pangs of hunger, and the auto-da-fe of burning
prairies, to implant their faith in the hearts of the red
men — to gather another Province into the fold of the
Church.

Emigrants came in thousands, bringing with them the
manners of old France. The pioneers of Massachusetts
were not more true to Puritan belief, than the trans-
planted men of Brittany and Normandy to their service
of mass and candle. Along the river rose their
settlements ; in every hamlet a church spire and an abbe —
in every town a convent. A cluster of villages scattered
along the banks of the St. Lawrence, and nestling round
Quebec, became Canada; no longer Aca-nadaf (the
natives' term for "nothing here,") or Kanata, (signifying
in Iroquois language, ** a collection of huts,") but the
dear Conodo of the settlers — a gem of price in the French
Crown. From thence Montcalm marched to the massacre
of William Henry ; from the neighbouring province of
Acadie, men of French blood carried relief to their
countrymen at Beau S^jeur,

Well drilled into the observance of saints' days and
festivals, in the old land of their childhood, they would
record these great things of their Church for all time,
St. Anne and St. Marie found elegy in sparkling water-
falls, Peter and John in lovely lakes ; Lawrence and
Maurice in noble rivers ; Hilaire, Hyacinthe, Augustine
and a hundred others, in " habitant" villages. Where
Saints' days are many, workers are few. French Canada
was an example of this. The BritiRh Transatlantic
colonies had increased to 1,300,000 inhabitants, while
New France lingered behind with 60,000. A few
pioneers had gone up the Ottawa, rough cabins clustered
round Fort Fontenae, Detroit bosted a trading post ; but
Canada West was scarcely explored, wild fowl had
undisturbed possession of Toronto Bay. At Montreal
and at Trois Rivi^ries, small towns had been founded,
but Quebec was the foremost city. It was the Paris of
New France.

Another race appeared upon the scene. In the sum-
mer of 1759 a British fleet sailed up the St. Lawrence.
For two months it failed to accomplish a y results. The
flag of France still floated from the ramparts of Quebec.
A subordinate soldier suggested to General Wolfe a plan
for taking the fortress by surprise. It was approved.
On a star-light night at the commencement of Indian
summer, the English troops in flat-bottomed boats were
conveyed past the jutting promontory of Cape Diamond.
All was still. The sailors rowed with muffled oars.
None spoke but Wolfe, who repeated to his officers some
verses of "Gray's Elegy," observing, "Now gentlemen,
I would rather be the author of that poem than take
Quebec."

I have stood on the shingle of the cove where they
landed. You would think there was no pass from below,

™°^^^'"'''*^

tne crags are so steep and sharp I Such rocks are climbed
by Chamois hunters in the Alps. The sailors dragged
up a small cannon with ropes. The Highlanders led the
way. They grasped hold of the roots of willow and alder,
swung themselvefl up on to the plateau, and surprised
the French sentinels before they could give an alarm.
Quebec fell that day. The table-land of Abraham's
plains became the anvil on which was struck the military
fame of two commanders. It became also the place of
death. "Wolfe and Montcalm perished, stricken down on
the field of battle. The dying Englishman heard the cry
" they run," and kuew even in the moment of death, that
victory remained with his troops, St. George's banner
displaced the Eagle of France, and it hangs there
now. No people were ever better treated by their
conquerors than the Canadians. Private property was
respected, and religious toleration became the law of the
land. The fruit of this lenience, has been the ripening
of a harvest of loyalty to the Crown of Great Britain.
As in all free States, there are some unsettled spirits
longing for change ; there have been in Canada, e'meutes
and dissatisfaction, but the people as a body, have never
swerved from their loyalty.

We must roll history of the past, round a flag-staff of the
past and lay it by, 'or our ship is coming near to Quebec.
The city seems to wear a tinsel qrown under the morning
sun. Taking a lesson from those who built the palace at
Milan, the people of Quebec have roofed their houses and
spires with tin. This species of roofing is said to be far
superior to shingles, for while the snow remains upon
and would weigh down a wood roof, it glides ofi'the tin
and is no inconvenience.

The appearance of the city as seen from the river is
!>ingularly striking and picturesque. Out juts Cape

Diamond with its frowning fortifications. This famous
promontory derives its name from quartz crystals which
are found in its slopes. After a shower of rain they are
easily seen, appearing like gems in a setting of dark
brown rook. Anchored in the river is H. M. ship
*< Constance." Under the rock is a long, low craft whose
early days were spent in " blocade running," I am told.
It is now employed in the more honorable service of
** Postal Steamer" to Gaspe Bay. Riding in the magni-
ficent roadstead are fleets of merchant vessels. Their
presence shows that Quebec is not only a fortress, but
also a port of commerce. As a proof of the latter, I am
told, (that in addition to the "grain fleet") 1,000 timber
ships leave every year. We may land and explore the
city.

MEDICEVAL AND MODEEN.

^HERE are few traces of antiquity in America. Yet
^ standing on the wharf, by the old market-house in
Quebec, I thought that I had stumbled upon something
akin to medioe>Talism. The first building in stone and
mortar, erected on the Continent, was at Tadoussac ; but
more substantial remains are found at Quebec. On
land won from the river, and on terraces rising from the
water, stands the old or lower town. It is composed of
houses and stores, a la Fran9ais of 250 years ago. The
streets are narrow and tortuous, often with footways of
planks. The French quarters are dirty, with gloomy
houses, in which a variety of small trades are carried on.
In 1866 a great fire swept away much of this part of the
city. It was then built chiefly of wood, but now the
structures are of stone. A |jale-coloured brick is also
much used for outside walls ; it has an ornamental and
clean appearance.

The ascent to the Upper Town is made by a steep,
winding street through Prescott Gate. The citadel is no
doabt the strongest military post on the American
continent. It is sometimes called the Gibraltar of the
New World. I was conducted over the fortress and
through the trenches by a soldier of the 53rd Line, a young
man from Kent. A square of granite was laid upon the
parapet wall, by the Prince of Wales in 1860. Upon it
is carved the Prince's crest of the "three ostrich feathers"

During summer, 1,000 soldiers compose the garrison,
which is increased to 2,000 in winter. ** Armstrong"
guns and ** Schneider" rifles are tho arms in use here.

The Roman Catholic Cathedral is a large building,
with a show of venerable pictures. You might imagine
yourself standing within the aisles of that ancient struc-
ture at Bheims, in which Clovis was crowned. In the
chapel adjoining are also many paintings of sacred scenes,
well worthy of examination. My artist companion was
delighted with them. In the stained glass windows we
searched in vain for the primal tints of deep blue, intense
ruby and vivid green which were known in the middle
ages, but have since been lost. They are imitated very
closely in France, but the manner ofcombining the exact
tints has not been re-discovered. I was pleased with
the architecture of the English Cathedral. Tradition
marks its site, as the spot on which Champlain's
tent was reared. In the Governor's garden stands
the monument which Lord Dalhousie raised to the
memory of Wolfe and Montcalm. Upon it is the following
inscription :

WAB GAVE THEM A COMMON MANLY COUBAGE,
DEATH GAVE THEM A COMMON GBAVE,
POSTEBITY GIVES THEM A COMMON FAME.

I drove through the St. Louis Gate to the Plains of
Abraham. A small obelisk marks the place where the
English General was stricken down in battle. It tells
its own story : —

HEBE WOLFE DIED VICTOBIOUS.

There are two other memorials of war-times to be
visited. By the side of the Foye Boad is a bronze monu-
ment erected in honour of the English and French soldiers
vho fell in 1 759. At the foot of the Citadel stands a small
tower marking the spot where the American army of

invasion in 1814 received its coup de grace. General Mont-
gomery and many of his officers were killed by grape-shot
from a single gun, fired from a masked battery by a
Canadian artilleryman. The United States troops hiwi
crossed the St. Lawrence on the ice, to attack Quebec ;
b it when the leaders fell, the rank and file were obliged
to retreat.

This old French city can show as pleasant suburbs as
any in England. There is a look of repose about many
of the mansions, an indescribable something which
reminds you of munor-houses in the old country.
Spencer-Wood is approached by an avenue of majestic
trees, the mansion itself is surrounded by ornamental
flower-gardens. When the Governor-General can lay
aside Dominion-cares for'a little while, and retire to this
pleasant home, he is one of the happiest of men. I paid
a visit to Mount Hermon Cemetery, about three miles
from the city. Its grounds slope precipitously to the
noble river St. Lawrence. Their varied surface has been
laid out in true landscape-garden style, by Major Douglas,
an officer of engineers in the United States army. His
skill had been previously shown in the planning of the
famous Greenwood Cemetery, on Long Island. One of
the Mount Hermon Monuments perpetuates a deed of
heroism. ** Lieutenant Henry Edward Baines, of Shrews-
bury, England, lost his life at Quebec, in 1866, whilst
helping to subdue the great fire."

Que fas et gloria dugunt.

I came'away with a bouquet of blooming flowers, presented
to me by the Scotch gardener-in-chief. Their beauty
gladdened my room for two or three days ; then they
faded— fit emblems of the quiet necropolis whence they
came.

Perhaps the greatest curiosity of Quebec remains to
be noticed. It is the Canadian caUche. This antiquated
carriage resembles a rocking-chair with arms, hung on
leathern springs. Having once been jolted in this horse-
cradle, you do not desire a repetition. In the evening
Mr. Ince accompanied me on to the Baotery Walk for a
moonlight promenade. It was a singular scene. Citizens
came forth by hundreds to catch a cool breeze from the
river ; the moon-beams seemed to enkindle rival beams
as they glanced upon the roofs of tin. My companion
likens this quaint Canadian city to Lisbon. Quebec is
not making headway. It is said to be receding in
population. It has no trade but its lumber, and the
supplying of stores to the small hamlets along the river.
French and English names are mixed, — to wit, French
lawyers or avocats, and English booksellers. The lan-
guage of the early settlers is more generally spoken than
might be expected.

Winter came early upon the first colonists. They
arrived in summer. They had barely time to uproot a
tangle of wild-vines, to cut down trees and build their
log-houses before snow began to fall. To this day the
same extremes of temperature prevail. In June, July and
August the dwellers on this rork have to endure life
with the thermometer marking 90° to 103° in the shade,
while from November to April the river is frozen over
and the city smarts under Siberian cold. One of the
mcJst piteous complaints of the poorer people is, that
wood for burning grows scarcer and dearer every year.
As yet, coal from Nova Scotia is not freely imported ;
in fact it is almost unknown among the humbler clashes.

There are not wanting the usual signs of a garrison-
town. Scarlet uniforms are seen all over the city. At
sunrise and at sunset a signal-gun is fired from the

citadel. At noon the rappel is beaten, and our red-coats,
with white caps and neck-shades of linen, are marching
on a green plateau without the fortress. Twice a week,
on fine evenings, the military-band plays for the people
on the grassy esplanade. The last night of my stay I
had the pleasure of listening to them. The performers
were men of the Eoyal Artillery Band. The main Band
of the Corps is stationed at Woolwich, and never leaves
England. It numbers one hundred and foi'ty men and
is considered the best in the world. But this sectional
Band sustained the fame of the parent-band. By half-
past seven it was quite dark. The men took their places
on a raised wooden platform, close under the shadow of
the eajiihworks. The music-stands were ranged -n a
circle; each man had a small lamp at his side, to give
him light to read the notes. Throngs of lively Canadians
were promenading, apparently enjoying the music. I
talked with an old soldier and his daughter who were on
the ground. He told me that he had been thirty years
in our army ; he has now three sons in the ranks, and
two daughters married to British soldiers. He says,
"I deserve well of the service, yet if I was p young man
again, I would be a soldier in preference to any trade in
Canada." By this time the moon had risen. It lighted
up the face of the noble river; you could trace the
sheeny dapples of silver beyond the Isle of Orleans.
The St. Lawrence at this point is said to resemble the
Bosphorus, and this city, at once medioeval and modem,
Edinburgh and Innsbruck. The wind is blowing from
the west; the strains of martial music will be wafted
from this lofty orchestra towards the Atlantic. Again
the National Anthem closes the concert. I shall be
pardoned for feeling a glow of pride that the British
name is owned and honoured so far away from England,

I left the ground, and returned to the chief caravansary
of the city to hear a party of Americans, a consul, a major,
and two other citizens discussing the desirability of
annexing Canada to the United States. I must never
boast again.

On the land- side, Quebec is surrounded by a green
plain, dotted with white houses. It remindt; me of
similar plains in Northern France. We drove through
it en route for Lorette Falls. These latter are more a
cascade than a waterfall, '^"ha river St. Charles rushes
over a curved breast of rock, not in one unbroken bound,
but languidly and fitfully. Now there is a glimpse caught
of white foam, and then a ledge of brown stone. Below
its leaping place it has worn many channels. Through
these it glides, hiding itself under grottoes of green
banks, then again gathering itself into linns of quiet
foam. Oft-times it assumes a mantle of softer beauty,
almost more enchanting than the dashing display it
makes on entering the glen. Above the bridge we come
to the Indian village of Lorette. In wooden houses,
meanly furnished, dwell the tamed red-men, descend-
ants of cruel savages whose war-cry rung during border
raids, amid the wreck of flaming villages. When the
Quebec "father" sheathed his sword and lapsed into ways
of peace, then the Lorette must also bury his hatchet
and leave the war-path. The Indians at Lorette have
been civilised to some extent. They have a little church
in which Catholic worship is performed. But the poor
Indian languishes under restraint, his race is pining
away and will soon be extinct.

On coming up the river we noticed a gleam of white
waters on the right-hand bank. It was like a riband of
silver. That thread of light was Montmorenci. A drive
of eight miles from Quebec, brings us within sound of its

roar, within touch of its spray. The falls are higher than
Niagara, but cannot be compared with the Eternal
Catarac*^ in volume of water. You may pull round in a
boat to a cove at the foot of the Falls and look up. Down
comes the torrent, shrouded in a veil of mist of its own
netting. The chaldron into which the waters of Mont-
morenci leap seems to have no ou*;let above ground.
Probably the floods escape into the lower St. Lawrence
by a subterranean passage, Yoo may vary your stand-
point. You may gaze from a wooden gallery in mid-air,
upon the wondrous sight. On banks above you notice
buttress and tower, and a broken cable. These are the
debris of a suspension-bridge, which once spanned the
river at this point. Some years ago, the bands snapped
asunder and the whole structure fell into the Scylia
below. Two miles above the Falls, the limestone-rock
bordering the river is formed into a succession of Natural
Steps. Not circular stepping-stones such as are found
hewn in basalt on Giants' Causeway, but ledges shaped
in the solid rock, with as much regularity as if man's
hand had cut them. Montmorenci is lonely in its melting
moods ; in its frozen humours it is gay with life. Old
armourer, "Bind +>ieir kings in chains," coming down
from the pole, grasps hold of its flowing beard of spray
and fashions it into a cone of ice. Then the game of
"toboggining" commences. Active sledge-men, muflfled
in furs, carry their runner-bound chairs to the apex of
the cone ; then setting the ice-boat afloat, they rush down
through the frost-laden air, enjoy ir ^ the while a ** dolce
far niente" of winter's pleasures.

In the Undercliff*, 300 feet below are built a range of
saV-mills, perhaps the largest in the world. Water is
the motive-power. Whether or not Niagara will ever be
reined and bitted so successfully as to be compelled to

tarn a Province of mills, as has been suggested, the
mastery has been gained by man at Montmorenci. We
descended to the mills. On the way we passed a slide,
through which the torrent is conducted on to the "wheels"
below. With fearful velocity the wnter rushes down. In
foam and noise, sight and sound are second only to the
main cataract. From this qf-shooi alone, there is running
to waste, a power suflBcient to turn mills three-times the
size of Mr. Hall's. The saws are kept running day and
night. There is no waste here as on the St. John. Every
fragment of wood is turned to good account. Laths and
pails are prepared from them on the spot ; smaller pieces
of pine are split up by special machinery into spells for
matches. The enterprise evinced here, was commenced
by Mr. Patterson many years ago. its success is in-
creasing. The present owner inherited the mills from
his father-in-law. Mr. Hall is a wealthy man. He had
the honour of entertaining the Prince of Wales on his
visit to Montmorenci in 1860. His house is pleasantly
siti .ated in grounds laid-out in the English style. On our
way home to the city, we passed through the pleasant
suburb of Beauport.

I made an excursion to Point Levis. Not many years
ago, this bluff was surrounded with forest-land. Now a
steam ferry-boat crosses the river, and a thriving town
has climbed terrace-like up the rocky slopes. Immense
fortifications are being constructed on a hill commanding
the St. Lawrence, some distance below the town. They
consist of mounds of earth- work, faced with limestone.
Within are enclosed trenches and bomb-proof subways ;
the walls of the inner "strong-boxes" being four to four
and a half feet thick of solid masonry. Three-hundred and
fifty Highland soldiers were working upon the fortifica-
tions. They were induced to perform the work of navvies

tour

land

ica-

ries

by a trifle of extra pay. At dinner wo had the unexpected'
pleasure of a young English lady's society, and afterwards
we drove to the encampment of the Eifle Brigade, on a
knoll overlooking the river. Then we penetrated into a
grove of maple-trees where rose a second array of
white tents. The 78th Highlanders were camped here.
All seemed going merrily in canvas-town. We were
permitted to enter that "sanctum sanctorum," an officer's
tent. Then we adjourned to the maple-grove. There
the "kilts" off duty were engaged in Highland-games.
Donalds and Campbells entered as heartily into the sports,
as their fellow-clansmen at Taymouth Castle, or under
the eye of Eoyalty at Braemar.

The "Allan" line of steamers, running between Quebec
and Liverpool, via Londonderry, is owned in Montreal,
During the summer-months the ships come up to the
rock-city, and their passengers are sent on by river-
steamers to Montreal and the West. Many emigrants
for the United States come by this route. In winter the
St. Lawrence is closed by ice ; then the " Allan" steamers
run to Portland in Maine, pp^sengers going forward by
the Grand Trunk Eailroad.

At Quebec I partedfrom several pleasant acquaintances.
One ot them left on the British steamer to face the gales
of the "roaring forties" ; another took ship for Sybarite
Havana. I soon followed their example, taking passage
on the steamer " Quebec " for Montreal. I can never
forget the old town on the rock. It stands as a relic of
antiquity amid the streams of time-present. Huge
waves of emigration which have rolled hither from
Britain, make no halt at this medioeval city. They rush
on, to find in Canada West and in the Great Eepublic
communities of kindred customs and kindred tongue.

So Quebec is left to its loneliness. It is marked with an
individuality of its own, which stands out amid the level
sameness of American cities with the boldness of a lone
"Pharos" among the waves.

mmimiiwm ^sa m^ mm

EOYAL MOUNTAIN.

'HEN Cartier sailed up the river from Quet e), ho
came to an island ; washed on one side by the
Ottawa, and on the other by the double streams Ottawa
and St. Lawrence. It sloped gently to the water's edge
on the south side ; on the north, rose a backbone of rock ;
under its shadow he found an encampment of Indians,
who welcomed him to their village of Hochelaga. Ho
called this hill Mont Eoyal ! Montreal stands on the
site of Huron lodges, and its name is a corruption of
C Ttier's nomenclature. I made the "up-stream" journey
on the " Quebec," which is as fine a river-boat as any in
the United States, not excepting the famous Bristol
steamers at New York. Canadians take as kindly to
carpeted saloons, and triple tiers of state rooms, as their
neighbours over the border. The charge of three dollars
for a voyage of 180 miles, with a free supper on board,
appeared unusually moderate.

Sunday was my first day in Montreal. As an English-
man I was much pleased with the quiet observance of
the sacred day. I attended an early service at N6tre
Dame. This immense cathedral was crowded with Irish
and Canadian worshippers. French was the language
used during service. As many of the congregation would
be unable to understand it, they would have to accept
the sermon '' in faith ;" meanwhile, they could feast their
eyes upon the ritual. ^.

As I left tbe church a man stepped up and aei'ved upon
me a paper with the following notice.

Assemblees Publiques pour I'iudependance du Canada.

Dimanche, h trois heures de I'apr^s midi, k la Montagne, sur
le plateau du coth Sud du chemin du Cimotiere Anglais, pr6s de
rh6tel Delmonico.

Lundi, k 8 heures du aoir, au coin des rues La Montagne et
St. Joseph. — Par Ordre

MEDERIC LANCTOT, President.
Montreal, Jeudi, 27 Aout 1868.

Public Meetings for the Independence of Canada.

Sunday at 3 p.m. on the heights near the mountain, on the
South side of the English Cemetery Road, near Delmonico's
Hotel.

Monday, at 8 o'clock, p.m., at the corner of Mountain and
St. Joseph streets. — By Order

MEDERIC LANCTOT, President.

Montreal, Thursday, 27 Aug. 1868.

Fortunately Canada is so nearly Independent, that the
further leap, to which discontented spirits would urge
her, would scarcely produce any material change.

The English Cathedral is a beautiful structure. It is
the purest specimen of Gothic architecture in America.
It stands within a green enclosure, on a plateau between
city and mountain. You will find many a Parish Church
in England far more imposing, but none more attractive
and ornate than this little minster of Montreal. Above
the chancel arch is traced an illuminated text,

THE LORD IS IN HIS HOLY TEMPLE.
Aisles and nave are separated by columns of pure white

ptone, crowned with carved capitals; which are alternately
circled with sharp-edged acanthus, and clusters of vine
leaf and grape.

Those who rail at the inertia of England's National
Church, will find no ground for their plaint in Canada.
In the Dominion, its minialers are " of the people," and
work with their loins girded manfully to duty. Their
ministrations are acceptable ; their devotion to pure
religion has its reward : for the lamp of service which
young Edwra'd's Bishops lighted and trimmed, burns
steadily in the New World, amid wide-spread Unitarian-
ism in New England, and Catholicism of Habitants and
Irish.

I repeated my visit to the Cathedral in the evening,
and again on returning to Montreal from the Great
Lakes. Its service pleased me more and more. The
singing at night was beautiful. The choir chanted the
Psalms, and all the congregation joined in singing the
beautiful hymns — ** Nearer to Thee" and " Abide with
me." It seems to be my destiny to hear these favorite
hymns wherever I go. I have heard the latter sung in
English country-churches in fast-falling darkness, this
night it was so on the banks of the St. Lawrence. The
preacher had stirred up our hearts with his sermon from
the noble words, ** Let me die the death of the righteous,
and let my last end be like his." Then came the closing
hymn, appealing to us to remember whose presence alone
can give strength and fortitude to live the righteous
man's life. Green leaves waved against the diamond
panes, as if telling a requiem for the dying evening —
swelling a chorus of approval to sermon and song.
When we came out of church, the moon was at full ;
we caught sight of shifting gleams of Aurora Borealis.
All was silent to-night, but sometimes these grand lights

are accompanied by crackling sounds, caused by the
clashing of electrical flames around them. On my return
to Montreal, the citizens thronged the Cathedral to listen
to a funeral sermon preached on the occasion of their
Bishop's death. They had laid him to rest in hope, and
now the preacher sought to improve the occasion, taking
for his text the sublime and comforting words — ** Blessed
are the dead which die in the Lord from henceforth ;"
Kev. xiv, 13. On the next Sunday the Bishop of Rupert's
Land occupied the Cathedral pulpit.

I attended evening service at St. Andrew's. This
church is the largest and richest Scotch Presbyterian
place of worship in the city. Its architecture is a close
imitation of Salisbury Cathedral, though of cours ■* on a
greatly reduced scale. As interior plan and ox'der of
service are somewhat unique, I will venture to describe
them. Organ and pulpit fac^e each other on the ground
floor. Each pew is constructed of polished ash or elm,
and comfortably cushioned. The following is the order
of service :

1. — A metrical Psalm (sung to the tune "Sun of ray soul,"
choir standing, congregation sitting.)

2. — An extempore prayer by minister, (all males of congrega-
tion standing.)
3. — A paraphrase.

4. — Reading a chapter from Old and New Testaments.
5. — A hymn (to tune "Dismission.")
6. — The Sermon.
7. — A Hymn.
8. — A short benediction.
9. — Collection.

The church was very sparsely attended. I saw there a
sea-captain acquaintance whom I had met on the steamer.

I heard him say that he had been at sea for twenty years,
and captain on many voyages, before he knew the taste
of whiskey. He was decidedly a temperance man.

I heard a lively story in connection with St. Andrew's.
Where there is no endowment, a churcb to be rich, must
have some rich parishioners. St. A. was fortunate in
possessing this desirable thing. A. and D., two of the
richest men in the city, turned their steps on Sundays
to the Kirk at the foot of Beaver Hall Hill. It chanced
that a new organ was wanted. Our two elders were both
applied to, but neither of them would head a subscription
list. Says D., "go to A. first;" says A., "GotoD.,
and what he gives I will likewise subscribe." D. was
grieved when the collectors went to him a second time
without being able to quote his rich rival's example : and
ho said, ** Did A. really say that he would give as much
as myself?" "Yes." *' How much do you require for the
organ?" "Four thousand dollars." "Then put me
down for 2,000 dollars, and let A. pay the rest." When
informed of this cotep d'etat, A. was taken in and no
mistake I but he was bound in honor to pay his 2,000
dollars.

I heard the following tale of an old Scotch Presbyterian
settler in Vermont from his son's lips. I repeat it not as
a honmot, but vely to show the strong hold which early
training has upon us all. The village elders were raising
subscriptions for a new organ to grace their meeting-
house, and during their canvass they called upon old
Cameron. He listened patiently to their observations,
" What is the usual thing in siller lifts," said he. " One
to five dollars," replied the Deacons. " I will give you
five dollars to keep the organ away," was the old man's
answer.

'U]

The Parliament buildiDgs at Ottawa are one of the
marvels of Canada, the Victoria Bridge is another. The
good folks of Montreal have reason to be proud of the iron
tube which now spans old father Lawrence. Under its
central girders, steam-ships pass on their way to and
from the lakes ; between its piers rush the waters of five
inland seas. Greatest triumph of all, is that which it
wins against ice-floes. When the frost-bands relax in
spring, huge fields of ice are sent careering down the
stream, with the mighty strength of ocean-lakes. Then
comes the tug of war. Flinty masses are packed, piled
and frozen mountains high. It is granite against flint,
man against nature, when a strain of 70,000 tons comes
upon each buttress of the bridge. Art conquers, the
work of Stephenson and Eoss stands firm.

Walking up to the sally-port of the Grand Trunk, I
was told by the guard, " no pass, no entrance." Said I
to the canny Scott, " I have no pass but my own face,
and I have brought it from very near your ain country."
Opposition vanished, and he kindly took me in. Half a
mile of rubble embankment, leads from terra-f/rma on
the north shore, to the mouth of the tube. A fortress
was never more carefully protected against assaults
of man, than is this railway molo, (by huge granite walls)
against the onset of the polar king's forces. Each seg-
ment of the iron cavern rests upon solid towers of stone.
The material was quarried fifteen miles up the river. It
is a kind of blue limestone, flinty and difficult to work,
yet once squared and set, it will run a race of endurance
with Old Father Time himself. There is a gradual rise
in the gradient, until in the central section, 25ft. is
gained ; when the iron way slants again to the southern
side. The huge tunnel of 1^ miles, expands and contracts
six feet; as indicated by a SQxtaut gauge at each entrapce.

e of the
er. The
f the iron

Jnder its
ly to and
jrs of five
j which it
3 relax in
down the
3S. Then

ainst flint,
ions comes
quers, the

d Trunk, I
0." Said I
own face,
country."
lin. Haifa
■a-firma on
A fortress
it assaults
,iiite walls)
Each seg-
Irs of stone,
river. It
t to work,
endurance
;radual rise
"»n, 25ft. is
le southern
d contracts
entraDce.

In this particular, nature is stronger than man, so the
mightier power must perforce liavc its way, as is testitied
by the engineer's provision for freaks of tcmperuture.
Looking in at the mouth, a faint speck of light is dis-
cerned afar off. This glimmer marks l.'ie centre of the
bridge.

The great work was accomplished by a celebrated
English firm of contractors, Peto and Company. A small
army of masons and mechanics was sent from a completed
railway in Scotland, to the trang- Atlantic contract. Irish
and French Canadians supplied the unskilled labour.
My guide was an old man who had left Perthshire
fourteen years before to enter the service of the Grand
Trunk Eailway Co. He showed me the crowning stone
of the edifice, and the riveting rivet. Stone and rivet
were set in their appointed places by the hands of Koyalty .
The Prince of Wales became for the nonce. Prince of
Artificers. Never bridge more honored or more useful.
It is the eighth wonder of the world, as story books
would say. By its mear;s Montreal is joined on one
hand to the Atlantic, and on the other to Chicago and the
West. Trajan's Column still records an Emperor's deeds,
after the lapse of seven<;e( n centuries ; the men who havo
given Fhape and strength to Victoria Bridge, hare
also reared for themselves a monument, which we trust
may be preserved to celebrate for all time the measures of
brain and mites of labor, consumed upop, its building.

Montreal is the most • *go-a-head" city of British North
America. Jersey City people say of New Yorkers, that
" each one of them was born into the world half-an-hour
too late," and that the race to make up for lo jt time never
ceases during life." Perhaps Montrealers are scarcely so
swift-sailing as this, but they at any rate know how to
" make hay while the sun shines" — ** to work while it is

called to-day." Certainly they have succeeded in accom-
plishing a marvellous tale of results. You mingle with
their merchants and feel that they are princes ; you visit
their stores and liken them to palaces ; prince and palace
alike owning no kings but conscience and commerce, no
court but the public weal.

A tingle of electrical energy seems to have been flashed
through the Great Lakes from far away Chicago ; or
perhaps it is Anglo-Scotch enterprise which has grappled
with, and overcome Seignorism, and slow-going Habitant
ways. Signs of their success are everywhere around you.
Engineers hr ve crowned the mountain with a grand
system of waterworks. The supply is gained from the
St. Lawrence at Lachine, before its purity has been
Gtained with the brown floods of Ottawa. After being
filtered, it is dispensed from a reservoir on the hill-side,
to the city below. I was told that the water is not so
wholesome for drinking purposes as that obtained from
springs ; yet it must be a great boon to the citizens for
the thousand other needs of daily life. M^Gill's College
is placed on the slope of the hill. It is the princely gift
of a merchant citizen. The country round is dotted with
pleasant villas.

Noble quays extend for three miles along the river-
bank in front of tbe city. These are washed by the dark
oclireous torrents of Eiver Grand, while the pale green
waters of the St. Lawrence flow past the opposite shoi'e.
Hundreds of large ocean-going ships come up into the
spacious harbour, discharging and loading merchandise
and corn. Engineering skill has opened a way for vessels
to ascend above the raging rapids of Lachine, by a chain
of locks of wonderful completeness. The city possesses
the largest and most convenient covered market on the

Continent. Over it is a large
accommodating 4,000 people.

ball-room capable of

The public buildings are a credit to British North
America. I looked into St. Patrick's Hall one evening
when it was lighted for a concert. Irish Catholics
subscribed to erect this noble pile, and have done their
work well. It is said that three-fourths of the people
of ^Montreal are Catholics. At their beautiful church of
St. Patrick, were celebrated the funeral obsequies of
D'Arcy M^Gee, of honoured memory. The Canadian
people mourned this patriot's death as sincerely as
Americans and Englishmen sorrowed for the noble
martyr of Slave emancipation. The Cathedral of Notre
Dame is the largest ecclesiastical building in America,
it furnishes accommodation for 10,000 worshippers within
its walls. In one of its towers hangs Gros Bourdon,
whose solemn chimes are occasionally heard tolling a
lire-alarm, or a passing-bell knell on the death of some
leading citizen.

Protcftants are also great in churches. ^ithin a
radius of half-a-mile, on Beaver Hall Hill I counted a
round dozen, altogether there a/re in the city more than
thirty places of worship of the reformed faith. The
citizens have a Club House, as spacious and ornate as
our "Carlton" or ''Reform." Their St. James's Street
is more substantial than its London namesake, their
squares of Victoria and Place D'Armes, with shade trees,
fountains and flowers, form pretty oases amid the roar of
business life.

Montreal has already gathered around it the acces-
sories Ol a manufacturing metropolis. I saw sugar
manufac tories as large as those of Glasgow or Bristol. In
other establishments elegant articles of furniture are
made from the beautiful woods of the country, and the
native marble receives like maniDulation at the hands of

skilful artificers. Canadian marble is prettily streaked,
but very flinty, and requires care in working. I
saw round shafts or pillars of it, perfect in shape, which
had been extracted from the rock with a bore-cutter.
For a season or two during the American Civil War, the
immense grain traffic of the Western States, flowed, via
Welland Canal, into the St. Lawrence. During a year
or so of interregnun-, Montreal usurped the export trade
of Empire City. But with the restoration of peace,
cargoes were again consigned to New York.

I called at the Savings' Bank and had a chat with
the manager. I looked in upon the rooms of the Young
Men's Christian Association ; and went through the
^Mechanics' Institution at the invitation of the secretary.
The "Times," with a large selection of our English
magazines lay upon the tables. St. Lawrence Hall is
quite a celebrated hotel ; it is the rendezvous of British
Officers and Members of the Legislature. Before the
war it was also a great resort of Southern tourists. In
the streets you notice soldiers of the Royal Artillery,
also of Highland infantry, in their national costumes.
Between Montreal and the mainland is the small island
of St. Helen's. It is used by th nil itary authorities for
practice ground, and a place of summer encampment.
The British flag waves over its fortifications. We also
find there tent-horoes for the troops of the 100th regi-
ment — the men living the same al-fresco life as the
Highlanders at Point Levi.

It was a gala-time among the red-coated volunteers of
Canada. Every hotel was full of these gentry, who had
assembled from city and settlement, to strive for the
prize at the Dominion shooting-match. Sixteen hundred

of Elis contend more UZyt 2 "" ""« ?"""'«
olive," than did these <S!^- ' "'"''""' "^ ^^'d

"mained; the esprit ot the m.T /" "^ "'"^'^

fruit is famo„rent irjf B^^f T' '^^°-
and .hipping; the grey limerttfe-ityw^hl:', 'T'^J
boulevards and noble public bui Jil ^ T "^'"^
white tents on St Helpn'= i i """"'S^- ^ gleam of

bluehJlsofVermlnnthef "T'^' *''^ '^'' *«

tbe southern Ikv" t ""^^ '^'^""'^« " '"""gi^g

ouutiiern sKy. Turnmcr awav from «n.u i ^

g'ving sight, I bid good-bve to thi^ n P^"""'""

City-this Venice of Ve North '^^''''"''^ '^^^^^

bo]

the

de£

it V

hav

whe

kno

the I

untU
the T
Main
the s
great
its ba
as Fa

EIVER GRAND.

jpOWN from its birthplace in the wilderness comes
^ the noble Ottawa. For nearly 1,000 miles it flows
among woods and lakes. Its navigation is impeded by
rapids and falls, but these freaks of nature lend to the
river marvellous beauty. Its cradle is on the confines of
Bupert's Land, on the western slope of the Laurentian
watershed ; on the other side of which the Saguenay is
bom. It does not long remain an infant river. Through
the horn- works of Grand Lake, and the zig-zags of Lac
des Quinzes, it rushes into island-studded Temiscaming.
It begins early to absorb tributary streams. Before
it widens into Seven League Lake, Blanche and Montreal
have become co-partners in the stream. From the point
where it is joined bj the Mattawa, the rushing flood is
known as the Ottawa, or Grand Eiver,

Between its young life in the North, and its old age on
the St. Lawrence, there runs a current of 800 miles ; its
«>-rystal waters gradually losing their bright sparkle,
until they have become sun-burnt and rock-stained into
the well-known brown floods of the lumberers* stream.
Main stream and tributaries, drain a district eight-ninths
the size of Great Britain. From source to mouth, is a
greater distance than from Caithness to Cornwall ; and
its banks are as varied in the peculiarities of river-scenery,
as Fair Isle and Kent in land-garb. The Ottawa is con-

nected with the St. Lawrence at Kingston by the Rideau
canal. A still greater mission has been planned for the
noble river, viz : to become a link in a great highway
from the north-western settlements to the ocean. It
would then be connected by cuttings with Lake Huron ;
vessels passing west up the Mattawa, thence by canal into
Lake Nipissing, and thence by French River, into the
waters of Georgian Bay.

This engineering achievement would shorten the
distance by water, from Liverpool to the Lake Ports,
760 miles ; save a week in time ; and probably reduce
charges for insurance and freight. "We hope that the
plan will be carried out. We anticipate that this will be
the route some day, from England to British Columbia ;
viz ; from Liverpool by steam via the St. Lawrence and
Ottawa, on through Lakes Huron and Superior to Fort
William ; thence by a Northern Pacific Railroad, through
the " fertile belt" to New Westminster. This however
is all in the future.

The Ottawa with its feeders forms the means of transit
for the largest lumber trade in the world. On the South
bank, such streams as the Mattawa, Madawaska, South
Nation aud Rideau ; on the North side, the Gatineau,
the Rivieres du Lifevre and du Moine, North Nation,
Rouge and Assumption, contribute annually their cargoes
of logs. The navigation has been greatly improved —
especially for timber — by the construction of dams and
slides, to facilitate its passage over rapids and falls.

I always think upon unkemoi), frolicsome River Grand
with delight. I am never weary of calling to mind its
foaming cascades and forest-hemmed shores. Many a
tale of adventure in their dangerous calling will the
voyageurs and lumberers tell you : of woodland life — of

winter storm — of spring floods — of hauling their boats
OTer the " carrying places," or (as the French Canadians
call them) "Les Portages".

I had a great desire to ascend the Gatineau for about
100 miles. An open-hearted Canadian volunteered to
accompany me for a few days spent on river and lake»
with raids into the forest. We passed up to a village
some miles to the north of Ottawa city. Will. Chamberlin
had here his little lumber-mill. He owns land with a
river-frontage of half a mile ; and yet because his pos-
sessions do not take a money shape, he calls himself a
poor man 1 Poor or not in material wealth, he was rich
in hospitality and goodness to the stranger. His own
friends were the second household of settlers who came
out into the forest wilderness of the Ottawa. (The
Wrights were the Jirst. Both families came from the
States about the same time.) A short time before I came
to know him, a party of English ofiicers had been camping-
out and hunting near his place. He had spent some
time with them, and thoroughly enjoyed their company.
He had lived and travelled in the United States for a few
years ; and he told me the story of his being followed for
three days by an Irish thief in Missouri. Having his
suspicions excited, he took into coimsel a detective. They
set a watch for the Arab, and succeeded in catching him
in Chamberlin*&43ed-room, injlagrante delicto,

Next day my guide was ready. His rifle would supply
wild duck for our camp table ; we should be sure to find
a bed of skins or a shake-down of rice-straw, at some
settler's shanty. Two little steamers ply on the river,
but their cruising-ground is limited by rapids. When we
left the stream, a tramp through the forest or a row upon
the lake awaited us. In this way the time passed quickly
and pleasantly. All inconvenience was more than counter-

balanced by the experience gained of forest-life. Here
the foresfc-kings have fallen before the lumberer's axe.
The settler has followed in his train ; making the land
yield increase to him — not once in a generation by its
spoils of timber — but each year with cereals and fruit.

Reports reached England of alarming conflagrations in
the forests of the Ottawa, and the lands bordering on the
Gatineau. I came up in time to witness the last minuet
of the flame-dance. The heat of the ball was over.
The ''greenwood" was gone. Kings and queens of
woodland glory were stripped of their grandeur and lay
stricken by the way-side. Flames still played languidly
about blackened stumps, or sullenly smouldered among
charcoal embers. We naturally ask how it is that forests
full of living sap will burn ? It is accounted for by the pre-
ponderance of trees of the pine species, each one loaded
to tips of leaf and twig, with pitch and resin. Then
again the dry heats of summer scorch the underwood into
the condition of tinder. A. spark from hunter's pipe
or lumberers' camp-flre may kindle a mighty conflagration
when all is so ready for the flames. Much mischief
follows in some cases, as for instance, when farm
boundary-fences are obliterated. Then comes angry
wrangling and trials in the law-courts. In 1825 a terrible
fire occurred in New Brunswick. On the Miramichi river
200 square miles of woods were destroyed ; by this awful
burning 500 people lost their lives, and 2,000 more were
ruined.

" It is an ill-wind that blows no good," says an old
proverb. The burnt forest is loss to the lumberer, but
it is gain to the farmer. He will dibble his maize and
wheat gralas between the black stumps ; vermin and
brushwood are cleared away without his labours. In a

little while these spots of black desolation, will, as in a
hundred clearings, smile gladly with harvest. Scotch
settlers push up the country, winning such triumphs over
swamp and tangle, that the saying of old comes true
literally, '* The wilderness and the solitary place shall be
glad for them, the desert shall blossom as the rose."

I have described the ** hanging gardens" of the South,
and '* Indian summer" in Maryland. The North has also
great glories of leaf and fern, of vine and flower. The
Ottawa has also its own autumn crown. A loving inter-
preter of nature has portrayed in glowing language, the
aspects of life in a northern and southern zone. In that
inimitable picture of word-painting. Buskin carries us at
once from a burning to a frozen land. Let us travel in
fancy, with his swallow and stork, from the flowered
pavements which are forecourts of the cypress-morass in
Carolina, to the humbler jardinet, embossed amidst a
northern cedar-swamp. We call this a wintry region,
yet we are in the latitude of the Qaronne. The green
pines are festooned with wild vines. It has been said
that the blistering grape-vines of the dismal swamp are
poisonous. Kot so those of Canada. Their leaves form
garlands for the pillars of forest-aisles, and in autumn,
clusters of black and purple fruit are set as symbols o^
teeming plenty. Nature's bountiful vineyard can never
be gathered by man, so birds and wild animals luxuriate
therein. Cartier's companions found them growing about
Cape Diamond, and round the gloomy Saguenay. Coming
to an island rock laden with them, they called it <<Isle of
Bacchus." Wild vine is worthy of a royal place in
the Dominion cornucopia.

In lake-shallows, grows the folle (woine of the
Jesuits — the wild rice of the English. Taller than a man,
spring feathered stalks, laden with graceful drooping

^i.

il„

ears of grain, black on the outside and pearly white
within. When shaken by wind, much of the cereal
treasure falls into the silt below. These rice-grounds
are favorite feeding-haunts of wild-fowl : — ducks, turkeys
and geese. They are sometimes charged with other
billets. Flocks of migrating pigeons pause on their flight
to enj oy the tempting dinner of ripe and ready food. From
the stalks of folic (woine the ingenious people of Maine
are now manufacturing paper.

Wild plums bending over lake-coves, may be gathered
in bushels. Black bilberries or huckleberries, rasps,
strawberries and white speckled dewberries, real blue-
berries, and rosy whortleberries (often miscalled cranber-
ries,) are found in like abundance. Indians eat the latter
raw and boil them with their meats ; the settlers' wives
boil them with maple sugar, into a delicious preserve for
winter use. What Indian and white-men spare, squirrels
and brown bears devour, sometimes even forestalling
them at the banquet.

I often think of the heaven-given law of compensation.
In Canada you find no "rosiers des Alps," you never
sight a rhododendron in the wilds, but in their place the
bilberry ranges northward even to "Greenland's icy
mountains." High bush or low bush, always hardy and
fruitful ; the berry delicately hidden under green leaves.
The humble bilberry is the free gift, the "gather and
come again,'' of Canada. I prefer its simple wholesome
fruit to the banana. It is a fairy sight when the orchards
of Hereford are pink with blossom, yet it is perhaps a still
more goodly vision, when in Canada, Indian summer
brings round the season of fruits.

The turn of the leaf comes early in the north. After a
frosty night the maples appear next morning in scarlet.
The climbing creepers also change their colors, and

K'eam »,th crimson and ™rmii;.„
Ip^ves of evergreen pi„e" Z^T' """"« ''^» spiny
wmter-^reen glows ZZ rose hi"'"'- ^'^ P^™'"' "^
^'der and poplar, and the fern^l:;^!;""":* the ^ot; of
After a very dry summer, The coW '"';;'""'""'""««-
"ot eo brilliant as when the seLonhr.^ °' """ '"<''''*«« *»
Indian summer all nature seer^^^^"'" """■ »"ring
» day of the famous - pink mTt -' f h 1 '"'° '"^P'''^- of
"o™ to night with a rosy s"n,e'fs r ^""^""^ ^^"^ ^on,
"•e twin piet„,es for onc^a . ^^^"^^ ^'"•"^ ^nd sky
or.mson-tinted firmament n?"'''V'""'^'* ^°"»'-»
rr°° '^ ™"«d Indian summer «v ?'"' "^^ '^^'
reference to the tradition. tW.!' ^'''P' '* •>«» «ome
-rth is shrouded, arose' from the'h'"'' '" "'"<"' «"«
prairies in the West by thnni^^ """"^ "'" ""e grass
color in the foliage is caused bv^f^'' , ^^' "^•'"S" "t

»P; on the oanvasthusprepLeSt "'''*"'''"«'''"
power to paint in wondrous tfnTs' ' ^"°-''«''»8 We

There .s al„o a summer Morvnffi.
™ay be seen to perfection aZtL '^""'P'' '''''^t
Thirty miles from Ouebel f. • '"' "'*<J*« of July
"Pon by English peojle rhe^tnato " T '"^""^ '"^^
'■very. Bound St. Anne's hereT ""^ ''*'' ""S'''*^'
beauty. An erudite naturalittt *''^''^'' °*' exquisite
excursion that I made to ttem 7 ''°"P»'<>'' o" an
stems of birches flashing tbrZh \ """ *« "'^«''y
th« spangles on Indian d!„l° f , *t" ''^8™«''' «ke
plants couched by gnarIedro°f ^ 'A ^« ''"""d pipe.

-i^ or .. fleur-de^uo7 etoff wir' ""^ '"'"'«'•« ^''^'d
l-'^^ ferns. Baspberriesa^eri't«"^"'«''«f°f maiden-
"imson rose-like flowe™ T « ""''' g»'-'»nds of
more acid than cultivated vL.ietilTr^r'^''*'-™^ "•«

England I The Canadian hawthorn has tio smoll ; its,
leaves are larger than ours, and resemble an acanthus in
shape. Chicory roots are indiginous here, as in England ;
and are discovered by the beautiful blue flowers of the
plant. Ton come upon labyrinths of wild-roses, which
yield a richer smell than our choicest varieties. If cul-
tivated, the scent distilled from them would make the
best otto of roses. The long, creeping stems of the twin-
flower have their tiny leaves flecked with dots of cherry
bloom. The young ladies of Canada are pleased to have
it bound round their hats in wreaths, if the oflice is
undertaken by certain hands. I have noticed a similar
plant growing in Via Gellia valley, Derbyshire ; but do
not know its scientific name. The young gentlemen of
England were not a whit behind their Canadian cousins
in its use. A tiny flower of the speedwell order has been
known to flourish on the south bank of the St. Lawrence
for twenty-seven years ; but in all that time it has not
by natural means, been floated to the other side. This is
singular, for one T/ould have thought that birds would have
carried the seed, or that particles would have been drifted
over on logs I Anemone grows here ; and on wet land,
deep blue edgings of gentians.

What the skunk is among animals, the carrion-flower is
among plants. On one occasion my companion cut down a
bush of it in the swamps, and at nightfall carried it on his
shoulder through a " habitant" village. The Canadians
grumbled and cried sacre, but did not find out the reason of
the smell. The same gentleman, being a scientific
man, conducted a conversazione to which flocked the
Governor-General and the elite of Quebec. He had small
pieces of " blood-root" among his specimens ; when he
described its properties to the audience, his words seemed
to aot as magnets instead of deterrents, for officers
crowded round him to obtain particles of the root so that

they might stain their gloves with it. Prompted by a
more mischievous spirit, they also carried off his store of
skunk- cabbages, to make *un by popping them into each
others pockets..

We must return to River Grand at Ottawa city, to
take ship for Montreal. Moored to the wharf is a small
steamer. Upon the wheelhouse is the symbol of a royal
crown, and the boat is honored with the name of Queen
Victoria. The journey down the river for fifty-eight
miles is pleasantly made. Low banks and shallow- waters,
endless forests, with now and then an open clearing and
a settler's shanty, are characteristics of this section of
the stream. Then a few islands appear, increasing its
beatity. The woods have begun to assume autumn tints ;
yellow poplars and crimson maples stand out amidst a
framework of green pines. Jccasionally we approach a
rude pier of logs — the point of communication for some
small hamlet of French Canadians. As a rule this region
of the Ottawa is the wildest, and yet a most beautiful
feature of Canada,

Then come a series of rapids for twelve miles, which
are avoided by means of canals. We trav^rea this region
by means of an old-fashioned line of rail ; agaiii '•'^aching
quiet waters, we embark on the steamer in waiting. This
vessel made its first trip with the Prince of Wales to
Ottawa, in 1860. It now bears upon its paddle-box the
three ostrich feathers, and the motto " Ich dien." We
had a party of Southerners with their families and servants
on board. In speech and dress they were rather more
like the English than the Yankees. Two little boys were
dressed in Highland costume — Scotch bonnets and
tartans. Charley and Harry were the most noisy
youngsters I have met. Some gentlemen on board, to tease
them, asked them if they were Yankees, and received in
reply an answer couched in withering sarcasm. The

: i

bitteruess of North and South has not yet passed away,

even with the young.

We have a clear run down the river to Lake St. Louis.

A slight chain of rapids occur. To avoid them, the

stea'^er passes down a lock, built alongside for that

purpose. At the same place the stream is crossed by a

narrow but handsome bridge, with iron tubular-way,

resting ou tall piers of blue limestone. This is the

spot vvhioh has been made classic ground by the Canadian

boat soug. The scenery is described in the well known

lines ; —

Faintly as tolls the evening chime
Our voices keep tune and our oars keep time.
Soon as the woods on shore look dim,
We'll sing at St. Ann's our parting hymn.
Row, brothers, row, the stream runs fast.
The Eapids are near and the daylight's past.

Why should we yet our sail unfurl ?
There is not a breath the blue wave to curl ;
But, when the wind blows off the shore,
Oh ! sweetly we'll rest our weary oar.
Blow, breezes, blow, the stream runs fast,
The Rapids are near and the daylight's past.

Utawas' tide ! this trembling moon
Shall see us float over thy surges soon.
Saint of this green isle ! heai our prayers.
Oh, grant us cool heavens aud favouring airs.
Blow, breezes, blow, the stream runs fast.
The Rapids are near and the daylight's past.

Lower down the river there is the same expanse of

woodland scenery, but it is of Bofter tone and more

pastoral. Islands are numerous. They appear like

leafy gems showered here and there. Now Ottawa and

St. Lawrence have become one. The floods of the former

are brown and muddy, those of the latter, light green.

Both rivers flow side by side, with distinct color, for

many miles after their junction, until at Bout de I'lle,

Kiver Grand is Anally merged into the noble St.

Lawrence.

PALACE BEAUTIFUL.

^EMBEES of Parliament coming from Canada West
to Ottawa, must stay the night at Prescott Junction ;
it became my rendezvous also. I left Toronto early in
the morning, and spent the whole day upon the Grand
Trunk Eailway. The line is single ; the trains run slowly,
but not surely enough to prevent accidont ; for near
Kingston we came upon the scene of a disaster which had
happened the previous day. Both sides of the permanent
way were strewn with dtbris of broken carriages. Peat
is burnt in some of the locomotive furnaces. The
architect who planned the pretty railway stations between
Toronto and Montreal has made them models of neatness ;
with trim flower-gardens such as you see on the English
" Little North Western Line." This section of the Grand
Trunk runs through some of the best settled lands of
Canada West. They are peopled almost wholely by
English and Scotch, who are more thrifty than the
'* Habitants," and make headway better than the Irish.
Still, Irishmen who have settled in Canada, and are
possessed of land, or other property, are no F&i^ia/nSf and
have no sympathy with the cause. '

I alighted at Prescott Junction and was casting dis-
satisfied glances at a dingy tavern hftrd by, (the probable
place for li night's entertainment) when a gentleman
seeing my <iijemma, told me of a better plan. " You can
sup on the station and sleep at the chaht over the way,

said he. I took the hint gladly and was soon in comfort-
able quarters. A wooden building, containing a
sitting-room and 16 or 18 bed-rooms has been erected
for the use of Members of Parliament. Everything about
it was simple, yet kept scrupulously clean, under the
charge of an intelligent young matron. "Winter is the
busiest and gayest time at the little ** sleeping-house."
Legislators are then coming and going every day, and
this is the only way. After supping on corn-cake, Gruere
cheese, and strawberries, I armed myself with a stout
pole ; sallied out into the swamps and remained in the
pine-groves until sun-down. All was still as in the
northern forest ; the solitude being relieved only by
tinkling cow-bells. I found beautiful ferns growing
round decaying stumps of hemlock- trees. At the chalet
I had a pleasant sitting-room until time to go to rest.

In the morning I strolled out, and had a chat with a
gang of Canadian plate-layers ; then, after an early
breakfast, took train for Ottawa. For most of the j ourney,
the rail runs through rough, half-cleared farms ; stumps,
among fields of wheat and grass, are a common sight. I
had a chatty companion all the way. He was a young
Scotchman from Perthshire ; by trade a tanner. He left
home alone ten years ago. Having saved 1000 dollars, he
bought a farm in Vermont ; and sent over money to bring
out his father and mother with their eight children.
These he settled upon the farm. The transactions of
Tapscott and Co. will prove that thousands of families
have been assisted in this manner, (by remittances from
friends,) to leave the Old land for the New.

The young man himself had been obliged by ill-health
to give up his own trade ; then he came to Montreal, and
is now doing well in the confidentia.1 employ of a large
** shipping and forwarding Company." He likes his

•'V^'"—™""-"— •"■■

duties, and now, in the way of business, knows and
mingles with the merchants and leading men of the city.
He pointed out to me the Chairman of the Eichlieu Co.,
a wealthy corporution that own the magnificent river-
steamers which ply on the St. Lawrence between Quebec
and Montreal. Thus men of integrity and industry rise
rapidly in America, so true is the old saying, — "the
tools corns to the hands of those that can use them."

This Pertho-Canadian says, — '* at the sound of the bag-
pipes, (if Scotland should be invaded,) I and thousands
of my fellow-countrymen would go home to defend Her
Majesty the Queen, if reeds be with the sacrifice of our
lives." More than this he could not say. These words
called to my mind a memorial of loyalty, seen in an
ancient church among the dales of Northern England.
Above the chancel hung a screen, emblazoned with a coat
of arms, and by its side a silken banner bearing the

motto /

AYMEZ LAUOYTE.
Written in Norman-French, (a proof of their antiquity)

these words had for generations reminded the Baron of

the day, of his traditional allegiance. Feudalism has passed

away. Royalty no longer leans upon the Peers as the

mainstay cf the Throne. Queen Victoria grasps a

stronger staff; she is beloved by her people at home,

and also, (as we have been so touchingly reminded,) by

those who have cast their fortunes in a far-off land.

Looking out from the windows of the railway car, I

saw in the distance a long bank of earth. As we approach

nearer it assumes more defined proportions. It takes the

shape of a huge mound, such as an army would throw

up on the plain to resist an enemy. But this is not the

^ork of engineer or sapper. It is a natij^ral plateau,

round which clusters Ottawa c?ty. Upon the highest

bluff, (which i? as it were, a "Quiraing," cast in the
colossal mould of America,) are reared the Parliament
Halls, and the Departmental Buildings of the Dominion.
The central structure is the "Palace Beautiful" which I
have journeyed so far to visit. After running outside the
earthwork barrier for a mile a two, an entrance is found ;
the river is crossed by a suspension bridge, and the train
passes into the Backwoods' stronghold.

Fifty years ago Ottawa City was not born. TTpon the
river-banks stood log-huts used by the Royal Engineers,
who, with labourers and artificers were engaged in
constructing the Rideau canal. This channel was intended
by the Government of England to be a highway between
the lower St. Lawrence and the Lakes, through which
gun-boats could pass, in case communications on the
frontier should be interrupted. The workmen's shanties
became the nucleus for a settlement, — the settlement the
germ of a city.

It was originally called Bytown, in honor of Colonel
By, of the Royal Engineers, under whose command it
was laid out in 1823. It was ridiculed } id nicknamed
" the hole in the woods"; but in the face of derision it
has grown up into a prosperous city, which counts its
inhabitants by tens of thousands. It has won the
distinction of accommodating the Dominion Legislature.
Quebec, Montreal, Kingston and Toronto, each entered the
lists of competition for this mark of honor, but they were
overruled — Queen Victoria deciding upon Ottawa.

The thermometer was marking an East Indian tempera-
ture as I ascended the hill. Plain and forest seemed to
quiver in the intense heat. Since 1828 such a summer
has not been known on the blufis of River Grand. We
had seen the glisten of the tin-tipped spires of Palace
Beautiful on the train, some distance from Ottawa, and

as It 1 was
a vision of our own
But the real presence

now that we are close to it, the Tuillery-like roof of slate
glows in the sunshine, and the wind-vanes flash like
molten silver. At length I stood before those magnifi-
cent Houses of Parliament, the possession of which, alone,
would make Canada famous. I was amazed at the
grandeur and extent of the pile. It felt as if I
dreaming a dream, or beholding
Westminster amid forest solitudes,
was indisputable.

I remember visiting a church which Lord and Lady-
Herbert of Lea erected at Wilton — the ancient seat of the
Pembrokes. It was a magnificent temple ; yet even more
remarkable than magnificence was the infinite variety
noticeable in architecture and material. It had evidently
been the design of its builders to rear a cosmopolitan
shrine. They had travelled in every country of Europe,
gathering here an idea, there a fragment of material.
In architecture their church was modelled after the
Husso-Greek and the Turkish Mosque, with a gallery
and campanile added.

You enter by a Gothic gateway, and the panorama of
variety opens. From Italy came material for the tessel-
ated pavement. The pulpit was a gem of Caen stone,
resting upon inlaid twining pillars of black marble,
fashioned and starred with mosaics by Roman artificers
of seven centuries ago. Tuscan ilex formed the
communion rail, and black walnut from New Brunswick
the reading-desk. The chancel sides were embossed
\fith Spanish marble and the doors with oak-pannels
carved by skillful Flemings. Glass windows were
supplied by Munich and balls by Palestine ; the organ
was brought from Wilton House. The gallery front was
garnished with arabesques in the style of the Lion's
Court at the Alhambra, and an old iron chest from Venice

contained the records. "Wiltshire found representation
in the stone work of the outer walls, otherwise the temple
was foreign in block and in detail.

Palace Beautiful is just the reverse. It is native in
detail and in block. Granite, found within 10 or 15 miles
of the bluflT, forms the piece de resistance of the pile. In
color it is creamy white, varied with red tinted stone for
the arches. The architecture seems composite Italio-
Gothic. The halls themselves rival those of the Imperial
Parliament. Polished marble for interior columns is the
product of Canadian quarries ; the painted windows also
are the work of Ottawa craftsmen. Each pillar is
surmounted by a capital of free-stone, rich with carvings.
No two are the same in design. Beaver and maple are
inwreathed together as the emblems of Canada, while
Nova Scotia retains its own sign of bonnie may-flower.
On other columns are traced harvest tokens of maize, and
the fernery of the swamps ; water-lilies of the rivers, and
deer of the forest ; bison ot the plains and wild game of
the prairie ; garden-grape and peach, with nest and egg
of woodland birds. No characteristic of the country is
forgotten. Not only will man, the law giver and lord of
all, be represented here ; but also each minor thing of
bird, beast and flower. Everything is of Canada,
Canadian.

I passed into the nob^'^ Chamber of the Upper House,
and sat for a minute upon the throne of the Dominion.
It is furnished en suite with crimson carpets and hangings,
and in this respect differs from the House of Represen-
tatives which assumes a garniture of green. In both
Houses, members are accommodated with desks, —
handsome pieces of furniture of black walnut, lined with
blue cloth. Like the Sardinian farmer who craved to
resume his old craft of mason, and wall up the grave of

of
of
la.

Count; Cavour, I asked to occupy for a moment the desk
of D'Arcy M^Gee, from which he made his last speech in
the House, an hour before falling under the bullet of an
assassin. 76 senators and 272 members throng the Houses
during Session. In a passage or lobby entered from the
main corridor, is provided a closet for each member,
where with French exactness he may deposit and lock up
hat, coat or papers. The original estimate for the
Buildings was 900,000 dollars ; but already 4,000,000 to
5,000,000 dollars have been expended, and the Library is
yet unfinished. It will be a noble room when complete —
capable of holding 300,000 volumes. The shape will
resemble the chapter-house of Salisbury Cathedral. Old
country faces turned up wherever I went, and Ottawa
was no exception. The keepers of the Halls were
respectively men from Ireland and Devon.

From the edge of the bluff the view was magnificent.
As far as the eye could reach it fell upon forests of Ottawa
valley. Below, lay the bustling town ; guarded on one
side by foaming Chaudiere, on the other by silvery
Rideau ; like lions keeping watch before Palace Beautiful
of the allegory. Quebec excepted, I know no more
romantic or remarkable city in America than this one in
the backwoods. The eye wanders to the saw-mills ; it
rests upon the twin spires of the Catholic Cathedral. It
glances from Queen's printing-house to a lumber-laden
river. Then it returns to dwell upon never-ending
forest ; you look upon a similar scene from Richmond
Hill, save that here furrowed woodlands anticipate
Berkshire's fertile vales, and no towers of Windsor gleam
on the far away horizon.

Being intimately acquainted with the gifted author of
Post Office Savings' Banks in England, I felt deeply
interested to gauge the success of the scheme in Canada.

The British modtt$ operandi has been grafted into the
Dominion Post Office and is succeeding well. "With Mr.
Stewart the chef of the bureau at Ottawa, I had a long
and instructive chat. He had read " Good Times" and
also other letters and pamphlets in which Mr. Charles
W. Sikes of Huddersfield, introduced his plan of Post
Office Savings' Banks to the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone,
and through him to the authorities at St. Martins le
Grand. At the time of my visit to Canada (1868) there
were 200 Money Order Offices open to receive deposits
on Savings' Bank account. Business transactions had
commenced at 130 of them, the remaining 70 had as yet
received no deposits. It was only a few months since the
plan had been adopted in the Dominion, and 350,000
dollars had been already received. My readers will be
aware that in our colonies a higher rate of interest
generally prevails than at home. Instead of the 2§ per
cent, allowed in Great Britain, 4 per cent, is allowed in
Canada by the Post Office, (and when a depositor is
willing to capitalise his savings into bonds of 100 dollars
each, at 3 months date from sight,) 5 per cent, interest is
then paid to him. Many difficulties beset the scheme, for
while farmers can often realise 10 or 12 per cent, for their
money on land mortgages, they will naturally be careless of
using the Post Office Savings' Banks. But the security
of the latter is so great, that it must in time win much
support. Mr. Sikes will have the satisfaction of knowing
that he has given the order to a new regime of Savings'
Banks for the people, not only in Great Britain, but also
in the colonies. May the good work of a philanthropic
mind go on and prosper.

As I emerged from under the noble portal-arch, I
looked up and saw a royal standard floating over the
tower. It was our own

St. George's banner broad and gay.

Then I heard a buo-Ie-poM j ,

'oundadetaohme^tf Hfll:°^trt^ ""° «"« '-»
police, gathered to guard "Snt^ "'"' ^°'"°'^«^^ ""d

VmpathisersdaringfhetLlofn A ""V™"'^ "'" F«'"™
TWe seemed no „°eed howel .^"^^''^^^'^""derer.

Canadians k„o„ too we\Uh7l, f '""""^ '"'"•oe ! the

tbeir administration to be intl? V""'' '*"» '^ ^"o-
vmced that they ha™ Jl '"'erfered with. I am con

of Fenianism!' tlT T't^ > 'f ''^ "'"'°'"--<'
m.8guideditistrue,butB^mn„? ." '°^" "^ "oantry,

e^^resenceofignoraLceLI'rSer''"'^'''^ '' ^ '"^^
which works its pnrposeTL ^ '"°''- ^ brotherhood

DArcy M>Qee was a remSS t"" ''°"«^' '"un-
concerned in the Irish reh!ir /''*'■*'"«'■• He was
United States. Thence he '11 '''' ^-^ ««d ^ th"
became one of her leadwft.f^'^ 'nto Canada, and

^is. indignation hidi:^';'::^^ '"'^-'^-Ht-y

which empowered a landlords -7 ""J"^' 'and laws,
notice, at any time, ^Ithol? T'"' •■'' '^"'»'' ^^'bou

The -d of hLdoption n° fe ZtX T J""^ P"*'^"
unfairness ; the stumbling block bei!"^ "° ^^^'^
refugee became Tunder np» = ■ .^ removed, the
l>-in.-on. He l^us ha^bra'S ^'r <''*'^«"'°^*''«
nal power, for his brain eauan»/- "^ ^'■''^' '"'oUect-
of many Jiterateurs. Kt '° '''' '"'^ "^'^ht that

and Dryden-» 60oz. includ°nrth. K? '!f'^'''^ ^'°='- «"d
wa.59oz. without blood The fL' ^''"^ *^'«««'«
shall be free," but the Can^t ^ """o '^ " I'-e'and
be free from FeniLfsn^.r'^-- J? "Our country shall

misguided countrymen in f^ rr ^ ""^ '™* to his

before one man denounced the Fenian plot, now ten nro
ready to follow in the steps of the fearless Irish-Canadian
patriot.

I had heard of spruce beer, but never tasted it before
coming to Ottawa. An old woman was selling it in the
street, like the London Salopians in early morning. For
a copper or two the dame gave me a mug full, but it was
too strongly impregnated with turpentine for me to drink.

Chaudiere Falls are some distance above Parliament
Bluff. This name was given to them by French pioneers ;
but by boat-men and lumberers on the river, they are
called by the more familiar name of ** Big Kettle." For
many miles above the Falls the stream is broken by many
chutes or rapids, and the incline in the bed of the river is
very marked. When the waters approach Chaudiere,
they fall over a limestone rock 20ft. deep, careering on
three sides into the whirlpool below. The dashing
torrent produces a dense cloud of foam and spray like
steam — hence the name Chaudiere, meaning a copper or
boiler, in the French language. The scenery around is
still wild and grand, forests of waving pines covering
the undulating banks and overhanging the river. I am
obliged however to confess that the presence of lumber
mills below the Falls, destroys the romance, though it
adds to the usefulness of the place.

Eideau Falls are a great contrast to " Big Kettle."
Over a limestone precipice glides a veil of water, dropping
down an even face of rock. Seen from the river beneath
it has the appearance of a curtain of silver gauze. In
order to obtain a good view of the Rideau from land, I
had to pass over a waste plot overgrown with nettle-burs,
It was as bad in its way as the stink-weed of Missouri,
or the mosquitoes, for its clusters of spiny heads have a

special affinity for garments and boots, and are as difficult
to shake off as leeches. Even the Rideau is made useful.
It cannot be navigated, but it is trained to turn tbe
wheels of a little mill. I was invited to go through this
factory, where long Canadian wool is manufactured into
tweeds, and grey blankets for lumberers. Motive power
is communicated by a pair of turbine wheels, having a
a head of 32ft. of water acting upon them during the
driest weather.

At dinner I met a pleasant circle of American tourists,
who had come up North to see what the ** blue noses," (as
they called the Canadians) were doing in the backwoods.
In the evening Mr. Chaute of Boston, accompanied me
for a last look from Parliament Bluff. Eiver, forest and
city lay bathed in moonlight. In my companion I
recognised a patriarch-pioneer. His uncle and aunt
Wright had come from Massachusetts to be the first
settlers of Ottawa. Their child (born in 1801) was the
first native of the city. V^oyageurs and hunters coming
up the river found navigation barred by the Chaudi^re,
so they tramped out aportage 8 miles long on the northern
bank, over which they hauled their bateaux laden with
stores, until they could launch into quiet waterb
again. Near this " carrying place" Mr. "Wright * located'
himself, and as land was cheap in those days, he obtained
large grants for a small outlay. Being richer in land
than in hard cash, he effected a settlement of outstanding
claims with one of his Irish team-drivers, by giving him
a large slice of forest-land on the southern side of the
river. In process of time the land was wanted for
building plots, for the new city, and then the one-time
ox-teamer became a rich man, and died well advanced on
the highroad to being a millionaire. Mr. Chaute had
visited Ottawa in 1831 and again in 1856. Even at the

latter date not a sod had been turned for Palace Beautiful.
It was only in 1861 that the foundation-stone was laid,
and then it was right royally done by the hand of the
Prince of Wales. Mr. Chamberlin on the Gatineau River
had alluded to the Wrights as being the first settlers at
Ottawa ; it was a pleasant episode to meet (quite
accidentally) one so intimately related to them as their
nephew. Mr. Chaute spoke feelingly of England, saying
that he venerated the old country, although he had never
visited it. Two of our laws displeased '.>'m, viz:
Primogeniture and the connection of Church and State,
still he feels as acutely as we do the danger of having
a Government not openly Protestant. He says that he
has always pleasure in meeting Englishmen ; and he
gave me a very cordial invitation to visit him at his own
home in the United States. From individual Americans
I have received kindnesses so many and often, that
my countrymen will I trust give them credit for the
affectionate memories which they as a nation cherish of
the old home, even though some of their turbi:iant spirits
talk of driving our red-coats from Quebec, and hoisting
the Stars and Stripes on the towers of Palace Beautiful.

THE GOLDEN BELT.

^^ ^r)E sure and sail down the *Lake of the thousand
^ islands' and if possible make the journey in May,
so as to arrive in Quebec on the Queen's birthday." The
advice came from an Englishman who had visited Canada
some years before. It was however later in the season
than May, when I reached this classic region. From
Lake Ontario, the steamer passes into the St. La\/rence ;
then is gradually unfolded to view this wonderful
panorama of islands. It is the largest collGctiou of the
kind in the world. Dots of land, small and great, are
set in the river in greater number than the tales of the
Arabian magician ; although matter-of-fact geographers
have limited the role to a thousand. Smith, in his
"Past, Present, and Future of Canada," thus describes
these islands :

Islands of all sizes and shapes are scattered in profusioi?
throughout the waters ; some covered with vegetation, others bare
and rugged rocks ; some many acres in extent, others measuring
but a few feet ; some showing a bare bald head, a little above the
level of the water, while, a short distance off, a large island or
rock, crowned with a considerable growth of pine or cedar, will
rise abruptly out of the water, to the height, probably, of 100
feet or more. These islands are mostly of granite or sandstone.

An acquaintance from Ohio, told me he had been
spending a week on this fairy lake. "Wi.th a couple of
Indian boatmen, he had sailed from isle to isle of the river

archipelago, now taking a royalty of fish from the stream,
now having a shot at the foxes and minks ashore. AVhen
the steamer has threaded her way through the islands,
she draws near the rapids of Long Sault. The brokon
waters extend for 9 miles, and the passage of them is very
exciting.

A few miles above Montreal, occur the celebrated chutes
of Lachine ; It is said that when white men first saw
the falls, they exclaimed La Ohiue ! thinking they had
discovered a new route to China. Usually the flat bottomed
steamers shoot these rapids. Anything more thrilling in
peaceful experience, can scarcely be imagined. Mr.
Stair of Ohio, thus described it to me. An Indian pilot
comes on board ; six men are placed at the wheel, ready
to obey his steering orders to the gradation of a single
point ; the engines are reversed ; then comes the rush.
With eye unswervingly fixed on his secret landmarks
along the channel, the old Indian guides the vessel into
quiet waters again. This year (1868) the stream was
lower than had been known for years, and in August, the
steamer "Grecian" incoming down, struck on a rock ^
fortunately she swung round into a sheltered cove, and
the lives of her passengers were saved. After this
accident, ** shooting the rapids" was discontinued until
"high water" again returned to cover over the jagged
rockfl of the cataract.

I have previously mentioned the fertile belt of land
which stretches between Toronto and Kingston. An
equally valuable tract, called the "Garden-land" of
Canada extends to Windsor on the Detroit Eiver. Like
many piaces in America, the city of Toronto has adopted
a name from the language of the Indians. Less than 100
years ago, settlers had not disturbed the solitude of the
red man's " meeting place." Now the tribes are gone,

and it has become a centre of rendezvous for Saxon energy
and progress. In evidence of advanced civilization, it
follows well in the footsteps of thrifty Montreal. I had
a letter of introduction to a dweller in Tonge-street. It
was a matter of difficulty to find him, S';eing that the said
street (or rather a tract of land bearing the name of street)
stretched through an agricultural country for 36 miles.
This " garden-land" is still in the rough. Italian terraces
and landscape eff-^cts are all in the future as yet ; in the
meantime a rich soil is yielding plentiful harvests as a
crown to the farmers' labours.

On the train I came upon signs of that emigrant life
which flows so surely to the *' Golden West." Two
humble Germans were travelling to Detroit en route for
Iowa. As yet, America was to them a strange land, they
scarcely understood a word of the Saxon's tongue. I was
able to be of some little service to both of them, in their
dialogues with the United States' officer of Customs ; they
seemed wishful to return the kindness, one by giving me
some peaches, his fellow by inviting me at the journey's
end to share his coffee and cake. How potent, thought
I, is the spell v/hich American freedom holds over the
minds of Europeans. Men come to the Great Eepublic
from all nations. Germans and Swedes, Swiss and
Norwegians are drawn as by magnetic power, to cast in
their lot under the star-spangled banner. Thus colonieg
or cliques of distinct nationalities abound in x\merica.
For instance Louisville in Kentucky swarms with German
and Bohemian Jews, aid Milwaikie on Lake Michigan
is a miniature Norway and iSwed^n.

Passing and repassing with each train, through this
tongue of Canadian territory, ride?:, an [n.sj)ector of Uncle
Sam's customs. He has many charges to watch ove^'. as
thic; .oute is a favourite one fc Western settlers. The

attendant of our train was a model of courtesy combined
with executive administration. Canada West is pushing
ahead in prosperity ; every town from Kingston to
Hamilton bears evidence of an old saying, that ** nothing
succeeds like success." Never was there more material
and moral progress in the Province than now ; and never
a less desire to migrate into the domains of their great
neighbour over the borders.

Far to the West however lies the Golden Belt. To
reach it, the Great Lakes must be passed. Fast steamers
run from Collingwood on the shores of Georgian Bay.
One or two of them have that long low build, which would
fit them for blocade-running ; for racing against the land
engines, or breasting the surges of Huron and Superior.
Conspicuous among thousands of islands ; (barring out
Lake Huron, save where the waters find entrance through
a channel north of Cabot's Head,) is anchored Grand
Manitoulin Island. Into this wilderness-lodge, Sir
Francis Head gathered the Indians in a settlement or
reservation. Some of them spend their time upon the
fishing- grounds of lake or river ; others become faithful
forest-guides to officers or sportsmen ; many adopt the
civilization of the white men in part, and also equal him
in his vices.

Lake Superior is considered the most beautiful of the
chain. It is entered by ^he famous Falls of St. Mary,
or Sault St. Marie, as they where called by Jesuit
pioneers, who came here and founded a village two
centuries ago. The rapids decline with a steady flow ;
canoes and steamers may *' run " them without danger.
The St. Mary's Ship Canal has been constructed on the
American side, for the transit of goods ; its massive locks
are ]ierhaps the largest and finest in the world. Lake
Huron is very deep ; it is said that soundings have been

made off Sagioftw to a depth of 1800 feet, yet no bottom
found. Superior is more shallow, and its water is in
many places very transparent. More than 200 rivers
flow into it, pouring in the drainage of 100,000 square
miles of land, thus feeding the largest body of fresh water
in the world. A yoUng engineer engaged upon the
Government survey, told me that he had coasted it 220
miles in an open boat. Through the clear waters he could
see veins of lead, copper and silver, run from shore into
the Lake, The wild cliffs surrounding, have been exposed
for ages to winds and waves ; mineral matter exuding
from above, has colored the bluffs with strange shapes —
made still stranger and more weird by the play of storm-
current, the grip of winter cold, and the growth of lichens.
To all who journey on the Lake they are known as the
" PictureARocks. "

All along the northern shores of Lake Superior, extends
the hunting grounds which have been recently surrendered
to the Dominion by the Hudson's Bay Company. The most
valuable lands of Canada are as yet almost undeveloped.
They are situated in the North West, extending from the
head of Lake Superior to the Rocky Mountains. Millions
of acres of prairie-lands, are as yet roamed only by herds
cff buffalo and elk. They may not show signs of auriferous
deposit, but they possess those treasures which are
infinitely more permanent in giving stability to a colony ;
viz : rich virgin soil, and coal measures. The possession
of such prizes entitle this belt of territory to the rank of
" golden." Unfortunately it has too long remained isolated
from the older provinces. From Toronto to Fort
Garry settlement is about 1,100 miles, and as yet there is
no direct means of communication. Gvivernment are now
taking the matter in hand and are going to spend
£1,000,000 (i.e.) half a million in opening up a road and
half a million in helping emigrants to settle there*

The Americans have been the best friends of Red River
settlement. Some years ago the Governor of Minnesota
paid it a visit, and soon after a steamer was plying on
the river, bringing the colonists into communication
with other centres of civilization, and also giving them
means of reaching a market with their produce. The
great drawback of the settlement has been want of markets
for their agriculture. Of what use are 360,000 squaie
miles of prairie so long as they are unpeopled ? Of what
service to humanity are the 8,000 or 10,000 miles of
internal navigation of river and lake so long as they are
used only by the voyageurs of a Fur Company ?

Lake of the "Woods, "Winnipeg and Rainy Lake, the
Red River of the Korth, the Assiniboine and the Saskat-
chewan furnish abundant fish. It is said that Ross and
McDonald found salmon so plentiful, that they could buy
tons of it from the Esquimaux for a few articles of cutlery.
Of course the streams are frozen in winter, and such
trout as are then speared through holes in the ice, are thin
and lean, as might be expected from the scanty allowance
of the season.

Seed time begins in April, and harvest early in August.
Winter, though severe, is modified to a great extent by
natural causes. The climate is so dry, so free from
rawnevss, that the cold is not felt. Occasionally the oro^ge
sweeps over the plains; then comes real danger. The
snow is drifted by the winds, like dust upon the prairies ;
a darkening gloom shrouds the face of nature, and the
storm-blast howls and moans over the wilderness. Woe
be to iuiy poor wanderer, who is roofless and homeless
on the prairie at such times. They are generally over-
come and sink down to die ; but now and again an instance
occurs, of persons who have lain jperdues under the snow

for two or three days without food, and have been spared
to tell the tale of a merciful preservation.

Then come marvellous displays of " Northern Lights."
Indian superstition has it that these coruscations of flame
are caused by the spirits of the dead dancing before the
throne of their Manitou ; a more natural imagination
than that of '* darkies," who when asked how the stars
W3re made, replied that they were old moons cut up, and
fixed in the sky.

Since writing the foregoing, trouble has come opon R(!d
River Settlement. Its residents have rtsfused to receive the
Governor appointed by the Dominion, Insurrection has been
the order of the day in Lord Selkirk's hitherto peaceful colony.
We believe that order will soon be restored. Incorporation with
Canada promises the best future for Fort Garry. Ultimately the
settlers will have no ground for murmur. No one can traverse
the prairie-lands of ** Golden Belt" — their inheritance — without
fseling how free a life the people lead. Summer breezes are not
more unfettered amongst the wild-flowers and maize, than will
be the sway of individual liberty in Red River Scotch-Saxendom.
In a short time Ottawa will be able to assure the world that "the
Dominion is Peace." Englishmen will say, " All's well that
ends well." (April, WO.)

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fE turn away from the Dominion with two grand
impressions left upon our mind — the natural
capabilities of the land, and the future in store for it.
The vast regions of British North America comprise an
area of 4,109,636 square miles, of which the land portion
contains nearly one-ninth part of the surface of the globe.
Its productions are most varied. On the coast and round
the famous "banks" of Newfoundland the ocean is a
storehouse of wealth to the fisherman. Everywhere there
is a dowry of timber-lands, probably such as no other
country possesses. We know, as yet, only in part the
value of mineral wealth which is entombed among its
hills — granites and marbles, limestone and slate. We
have scarcely explored the region of Superior, with its
veins of copper and silver, cobalt and lead. Geologists tell
us of coal measures in the plains of the North West which
will last for many an age to come. But the backbone of
Canada's certain greatness is its agricultural resources.
While under the icy shadow of the Polar circle there is
a broad belt of land suitable only for Esquimaux, and such
as are satisfied to dwell amid perpetual winter ; there are,
in the lap of the Golden Belt, millions of acres of virgin
soil awaiting ploughman and sower. The broad lands
of the Saskatchewan which now produce luxuriant
grasses for herds of bufialo and deer, would more
gladly raise the "staff of life" for man; were he there
to instruct and foster.

Af:;ain as to climate — on the Mackenzie Biver the cold
is so intense that axes used for cutting wood require to
be specially tempered, otherwise they would split like
glass ; yet the Isle of Orleans is famous for its plums ;
Montreal mountain-slopes for apples ; at Toronto peaches
and grapes ripen in the open air. In water communica-
tion it is unrivalled. Government foresight and public
snirit have ably supplemented nature's gifts to the
Province. Where rapids occur in the rivers, continuous
navigation has been secured by means of canals. Many
of these are built so well as to last for all time. A million
and a half has been expended upon the St. Lawrence
system of canals, and on these, acting on behalf of
provincial interests the legislature has remitted all tolls
and dues 1 In addition to such streams as the St.
Lawrence, Ottawa and St. John ; in addition to the sea-
way of the Great Lakes, there is the vast railway
achievement of the Grand Trunk, Government has
already made to this Company a virtual donation of
£3,000,000, At the rate of 5 per cent, yearly, the two
sunk capitals of canals and railway are equivalent to an
annual payment of £225,000.

Much as has been done, infinitely more remains to be
accomplished. We hope to see the people of Canada
entering with spirit into the construction of a Northern
Pacific Eailroad, through the regions of Eed Eiver and
the plains, so as to connect British Columbia with the
Dominion. Vancouver's Island on the Pacific and Halifax
on the Atlantic would then grasp hands across a continent
of 4,333 miles. Under a more vigorous policy Lord
Selkirk's settlement at Fort Garry will expand westward
from 14,000 people to half as many millions. With a
leaven of greater enterprise, the oil-springs of Canada will
be still further developed and her coal-measures opened

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for u?e. The same hard labour which in Nova Scotia
banked out the restless tides of Fundy — will from the
sedge-fens and recd-bcds of Winnipeg create marshes ci
rich meadow-land. The Hudson's Bay Company found
hundreds of hardy Orkneymen ready to enter their
service and endure the solitary life of Rupert's Land; we
hope that the same northmen and thousands more of their
canny countrymen may become farmers, and in the
Golden Belt win as fair triumphs for Ceres as they have
done in the storm-girt Orkneys.

Opinion is rapidly formed and also changes quickly in
America. You may forecast the future for steady-going
Anglo-Saxondom at home, but we as men of English birth
and training cannot do the like for American and Canadian
Saxons. Now, certain sections of the Dominion seem
surging impetuously towards Independence, now veering
to Annexation, and then again creeping more closely
under the shadow of Old Mother England. In 1868 the
Members for Nova Scotia left Ottawa in a fit of pique
at the end of the session, saying that they would not
return ; in 1869 we find their constituents (who after
all are far more important people than the members)
welcoming Prince Arthur mos^ loyally among them. I
asked a lady of Nova Scotia uer opinion about the
annexation proclivities of the Province. Her reply was
to hand me an account of the reception accorded to the
Prince. The following sentences ar copied from a news-
paper which records that event in the heart of old
Acadie : —

Hundreds of people arrived at the railway depot to give the
Prince a hearty welcome. Merchants' shops and private
dwellings were decked with flags in almost every direction,
giving to the entire town an appearance of joy aad gladness
seldom witnessed. The moment His Royal Highness stepped ou

^^^

to the platform he was received by the Vohintcer Rifles clad in
the old Rothsay uniform, as a Guard of Honor, and by a deafening
round of cheers that fairly made the "welkin ring." Above,
waved a banner bearing the device of a crown, studded with
flowers, and these words —

A TRUE BRITISH WELCOME TO ARTHUR, VICTORIA'S NOBLE SON.
In front of the Court-house, the Royal carriage drew up, and
then the boys of the school cheered as lads only can cheer, and
the girls (most of them tastefully dressed in white,) waved their
handkerchiefs, after which the whole band of pupils, teachtrs
and people joined in singing the nation's loved anthem. Tho
people of Truro and Colchester considered it not only their duty,
but also a distinguished privilege and honor to thus openly
testify their feelings of loyalty and attachment to the mother
country, to British Institutions and especially to their beloved
Queen.

Again, at a public meeting held in Truro in Sept. 1869,
one of the speakers referred to annexation, but the people
seemed to have such an aversion to it that they would
not hear it mentioned.

Senator Chandler of Michigan, proposes in his place at
the Capitol to "claw up Canada forthwith;" but his
scheme is at once denounced by a Canadian leader — the
Hon. Mr. Gait — in the following terms at the close of his
long address : —

The course of the United States* Government appeared to be
dictated by the desire to bring about the humiUation of England
through her dependencies on this Continent ; but he did not
believe the plan would succeed. England would not for a
moment give way, and the people of Canada would sustain her
to a man, having repudiated the idea that the policy of Great
Britain towards the Dominion \iz& one of abandonment." (Loud
cheers )

American statesmen have gone to the length almost of
demanding reprisals for the Alabama's ravages —

There are many umonji us who, taking counsel of a sense of
national wrong, would leave them (the claims) to rest without
settlement, so as to furnish a precedent for retaliation in kind,
should England find herself at war. * * * It is not difficult
to imagine one of our countrymen saying with Shakespeare's
Jew, **The villany you teach me I will execute, and it shall go
hard, but I will bettor the instruction." — Hon. Charles Sumner,
speech in U.S. Senate, 1869.

It has been suggested that Great Britain should cede
Canada to the United States as compensation. But to
such tax act, Englishmen who are firm friends of the
United States demur very calmly and decidedly. The
Eight Hon. W. E. Forster made a speech in May last,
(1869) which we hope has settled the question. He
concluded an address of remarkable clearness and fairness
as follows : —

They have not a monopoly of patriotism in America, and we
have as much right to be proud of our country as they have of
theirs. (Cheers.) There is a line beyond which concession
would be a crime, because it would be a sacrifice of that position
among civilised nations which alone makes England able to do
her duty. But I have no fear of the future. It has been the
aim of my life to see a firm and lasting alliance among all
English-speaking people. Depend upon it, mutual interests,
mutual sympathies, common institutions, common language, ties
of blood will maintain the alliance between our countries. (Hear,
hear, and loud cheers.) "We shall be at peace, we shall go on
prospering in peace, and our peace will eventually be peace for
the world.

"We again quote Mr. Sumner —

Sometimes there are whispers of territorial compensation, and
Canada is named as the consideration. But he knows England
little, and little also of that great English liberty from Magna
Charta to the Somersett case, who supposes that this nation
could undertake any snch transfer. And he knows our country

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little, and little also of that great liberty which is ours,
who supposes that we could receive such a transfer. On each
side there is impossibility. Territory may be conveyed, but not
a people.

Even during the bitterness of Alabama speeches we
find the good Americans speaking tenderly of our British
Queen ; a little while after sending over their Harvard
crew to row a friendly match with our Oxford lads on
the Thames ; and lamenting that our youngest traveller
Prince is not commissioned to visit them as well as British
Americans. J

Mr. Cobden's opinion was freely expressed 20 years
ago. In a letter to Mr. Sumner, 7th Nov. 1849, he writes :

I agree with you that nature has decided that Canada and the
United States must become one for all purposes of intercommuni-
cation. Whether they also shall be united in the same
Federal Government must depend upon the two parties in the
union. I can assure you that there will be no repetition of the
policy of 1776 on our part to prevent our North American
colonies from pursuing their interests in their own way. If the
people of Canada are tolerably unanimous in wishing to sever
the very slight thread which now binds them to this country, I
see no reason why, if good and ordinary temper be observed, it
should not be done amicably.

Americans have not changed in the hope that some
day their motto or watch-word will be true literally —
** America for the Americans."

The United States can never be indifferent to Canada, nor to
the other British Provinces near neighbours and kindred. It is
well known, historically, that even before the Declaration of
Indepeudence our fathers hoped that Canada would take par
with them. Washington was strong in this hope ; so was

t Since the above was written. Prince Arthur has paid a flying
visit to the United States and was cordially received.— (1870.)

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Franklin, ****** In the careful instructions of the
Continental Congress, signed in their behalf by John Hancock,
President, the commissioners are, among other things, enjoinen
to remind the Canadians that " it is our earnest desire to adopt
them into the Union as a sister colony, and to secure the same
general system of mild and equable laws for them and ourselves,
with only such local differences as may be agreeable to each
colony respectively." * * « * * * The invitation
survives, not only in the archives of our history, but in all
American hearts, constant and continuing as when first issued,
believing as we do, that such a union, in the fulness of time,
with the good will of the mother country and the accord of both
parties, must be the harbinger of infinite good. Nor do I doubt
that this will be accomplished. — Mr. Sumner at Worcester, Mass.
Sept. 22. 1869.

Ever and anon, the Canadians trim their lamps of
loyalty into a brighter flame. So it will ever be. Smile
and frown will continually be the portion of old father-
land, but smiles will predominate. Now, the eye of the
Colony looks and thinks only upon the new home it will
build for its manhood, and the fearless, untrammelled
pathway it will hold through its young life. Then, it
remembers the old home of its fathers, the ingle-nooks
where they cogitated laws, and drank in by stealth a
reformed faith — it glances from battle-field to council-
hall, it rests upon moorland sanctuary and wild ocean-
homo. Thinking of these things it disdains not memory's
ancestral waves, but grows prouder in the possession of
such a history of the past.

*' We do not wish England to cast us oflF, and yet we do
not desire to be a burden to her," said a leading citizen of
Nova Scotia to me. Since the repealing of the recipro-
city treaty with the United States, the Canadians have
turned their faces more towards England. It is felt that

Nova Scotia will be benefited and not injured by her
union with the other provinces^ and generally speaking
all Canadians are looking Forward hopefully to the results
which will spring from Confederation. Under any
circumstances England will do her duty to tho Dominion,
In spite of a certain rumble of (iiscontent, it is felt by
the majority that the right thing has been done. If
British North America was to stand at all, it must be by
a united existence. That Union has come. "We cannot
expect that the people will turn their vision exclusively
to cis- Atlantic lands. They live by the side of an elder
brother, and it is right that they should cultivate
alliance and kinship with him. If there is any truth ill
the old saying that " blood is thicker than water," if there
is any potency in the peace principles enjoined by the
Christian faith, there should be no wrangling between
old and new-World Saxons. Millions of our kith and kin
have gone over and settled in America, and we are as
delicately related to each other as the nerves and arteries
which permeate both sides of the human body.

By and by we hope to see the time when a ZoUverein shall
secure equal scales of privilege to Canada and the United
States alike ; when the long frontier line of 3000 miles
shall be graced by an entire absence of custom-houses and
gunboats ; when one armed police shall suffice to punish
marauders and to bring to justice offenders against the
laws of the two Cgmmonweslths — laws which ehall be
equally intelligible to both. Canada will probably become
Independent after awhile. We think it desirable that it
should be so. But we do not think that it will become part
of the United States. It differs essentially from the great
Eepublic in this respect, viz : that its history and
traditions are essentially loyal in spirit. The men who
settled in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick came — many

of them — from the United States rather than cast off their
allegiance to the British Crown, Therefore if they elect
a new Government, they will not accept the "eagle" of the
Republic, but will set up a crowned bird of their own.
The Dominion has iiow the opportunity to begin working-
out a destiny of its own, and we doubt not it will prove
worthy of the mighty race from which its citizens have
sprung and are recruited. There is a tide in the affairs of
nations, as well as in those of men. It has set in for
Canada. If it is taken at its flood it will le ^d on to every
noble enterprise and possession which the world counts
fortune. The nations of the earth seem yet afar off from
a belief in the golden rule, but little by little we are
drawing nearer to it. Then the happiness of peoples at
home will be far more earnestly striven for, than a long
tale of foreign aggrandisement, or a bead-roll of victories
achieved for the sake of an idea.

Canada is in some respects an anomaly. Its people are
of two distinct races, holding separate religions. "We
have before shown that Saxon race and Protestant faith
are more successful in results of enterprise, than Gallic
race and Eoman Catholic faith. Yet these two peoples
must perforce dwell side by side. The French-Canadian
Representatives voted to a man at Ottawa in favor of the
North Shore Railway against the men of New Brunswick ;
but in the new Confederation the " go a head" race will
become the stronger, and overtop the old colonists of
French origin. Catholicism will flourish in America no
doubt, but io will have to be a very charitable and
moderate form of faith compared with what it has been
in times past in Europe.

The colony as yet has had little to try it in the
upheavings of civil war. Now and then there are brawls
between the two races, but as a rule, great peace is the

order of the day. The form of government is as liberal
as any in the world, and is established on a basis
thoroughly popular. The States can offer nothing to
emigrants that Canada cannot give, except the magic
name of Republic. When the Dominion is ripe for
Independence, it can have it, and we believe that as a
separate Commonwealth it will be more successful than
as a colony of Great Britain. There can be no mis-
understanding now as to the policy of the British
Government, and the public men of Canada thoroughly
appreciate it. In plain words it is as follows : "When
you colonists wish to stand alone in the rank of nations,
you are free to do so, and England will bid you '*God
speed" on your new race." The recent speeches of the
Hon. Mr. Gait, at Ottawa, and Governor-General Sir
John Yonge, at Quebec, thoroughly embody this senti-
ment.

At present all looks couleur de rose ; it depends upon the
wisdom and patriotism of the people to perpetuate the
beneficent reality. The Canadians are now more numerous
than the people of the United States when they gained
their Independence, and in every good work they will
have the support of England. If they prove themselves
faithful over few things, they will in time be found ruling
over many things. A free Bible, an educated people, just
laws and unselfish statesmen, will secure to the Dominion
a future of which every Canadian, every Englishman, and
every American may be justly proud. From our own
sea-girt island we shall look on the spectacle well pleased.
Like the champion of Italian liberty we shall watch the
progress of the free life which has gone out from ourselves.
Year by year our sons will go forth to swell the new-born
naoion, and by and by desert and swamp of the far West
will be subdued, and will smile with golden harvests ;

even as the scoriae-slopes of Caprera have been shaded by
palms, and empurpled by vineyards.

I sailed home from New York. Our good ship passed
down through American waters with the stars and stripes
fluttering from her riast head. After leaving Sandy
Hook the royal ensign of Britain was hoisted for a
moment, as if to prove our right to sail the ocean at will ;
then with bare poles we turned to meet the everlasting
swell of the Atlantic. As we approached Ireland, our
American passengers sung the song of " Home Again,"
in compliment to the ship's ofl&cers — an act of courtesy to
our naval countrymen which we cannot forget. I feel
that it has been a good thing to mingle with Americans
and Canadians on their own soil. I am thankful at heart
to have had an opportunity of seeing that sight — which to
an Englishman ought to be one of the most prized
lessons of life — how our own island-home has been re-
produced a hundred-fold by the great and noble peoples
of the West.