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I flii.fOilil-t I t^piinoi-hiil Liui* :.^^ ^§>. >A»r'^*'' \:h-,i,, uuiuttu^ miiiitiiivitiiniy ^^^y Jtl JliknilAiitt .r" KATSm'THSMV Krcnrh Fi ivcntoM M ll^fctM*.!./ /.'<■*>' rrfni I f'.ihyaiuff Tnopir of (^nincuin ITT II ^Mi^Ri;r A />/>My>4*. Pahaoi 1 r-.tTL/t'tti ^MUi V iiiiuiiniui > iiinu ITT nil • I 1.1-J mu i ii .^' ii i piiii l. W'll i W W IWP INVmHP""!^^^^ TTTrtrt I r ^Trl^t^nTfT^Tr^Tm I tit H J.\ uicu R* T H t«v 7\- T.ABnAliOia StTrlerfliav / I (fttftphon t \ lA CJ. 'VJI »Wvfinin«L- ■' / iirir or « > ■t jifM^ earn ^mm/ }■ rTTrr JUJiiiiUiHiJ (n if| if i i|Mntii i H iwi |i i ini i ini i i i | i iiii ii iii i i iiuiiiir l 1^ J}/» ,_ -*''" M ain- fund I eU I. Jtirffitni H C^ A tTSt/4$lhmf u^ t. M T ■f , > i rrr VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD: WHICH WAS PKRrORMED IN THE YEARS I7S5, I786, I 787, AND 1/38, BY M. De La PEYROUSE: . If^c, i^v. l^c. > *»^ m *)R, VO Y AGE ROUND THE WOilLT): WHICH VAS PEFORMED IN THE Yi£ARS 1 785, I 786. I 78 7, AND 1788, BY M. De La PEYROUSE : ABRIDGED FROM THE ORIGINAL FRENCH JOURNAL OF M, DE LA PF.YROUSE, WHICH WAS LATELY PUBLISHED BY M. IMILET-MUREAU, IN OHEDIENCE TO AN ORDER FROM THE FRENCH GOVERNMENT. TO WHICH ARE ADDED : A Voyage from Miinillu to Ciilifomia, BY DON ANTONIO MAURELLE: AND AN ABSTRACT OF riiE y or AGE and discoveries OF THE LATE CAPTAIN C. VANCOUVER. EmhcWuleJ ivitb Four Fine Engravings, F D I N D IT R G H I PRINTED BY J. MOIR, PATE R SON'^- COURT ! iiiR, T. UROWN, NO. 1. tJOHTlI- BR.IDGE STREET) and siiU by W. Co';e, Liilh \ Drash ami Ri;id, Cla>rrmv\ T. ITlLLj J':rth\ A. Urown, .ibenJcci ; G. MiLNE, Dundee \ W. BoYDi Dumfiiet ; Kmblc ri)N, liemvick on T\VtlJ\ W. 1IaI.LC;ARI II. JUII. South ShnUt\ M\<\ Crosby «S< l."o. LvnJ.n, 1798, I fk <^ PREFACE BY THE EDITOR. Jl HIS little volume contains the substance of TWO recent Publications ; concernini^ which the curiosity of the world has been very powerfully excited ; which are filled with knowledge of a species that is re- markably fitted to expand and illumhiate every mind ; but which are to be bou.njht at an expence that, but for the expedient of abridgement, must exclude the greater number of readers from diiy acquaintance with their contents. The original work from which the /Ic- count of the Voyage of M. de la Pey- aousE, has been extracted, is not simply a narrative. It comprehends — the very ela- borate papers of instructions and advice^ which were given to direct the investiga- tions, and to guide the course, of the French navigators, — the journal of La Feyrousey which he had transmitted home for p ibhcation, — a Spanish journal which a (11 VI PREFACE, ■|^ La Pey rouse sent to France, with his own papers, for the sake of illustrating the his- tory of the South Sea Isles, — with various extracts from the letters of La Fey rouse himself, and of the companions of his voy- age, which serve to conHrm the narrative in the principal journal, or to enlarge it by the communication of new particulars. Charts, and other engra^ings, accompany and illustrate the journal, and the oihe|. communications : And a number of nau- tical tables close the whole, at the end. Ji! It is true, tliat the Instrdciions with which La Pevkousk \\as favoured, v. hen he set out on his voyage, are more elabo- rate than any which v^c knovv' to have been given to the navigators, who were sent u])on our British voyages of dl.^cove- ry. But, if all the science and intelli- gence of the British is'ation, had been strained in one great clfort, to produce the most ample and luminous papers of In- sTRrciioNs, wliich could be given to na- vigators setting out on a voyage of disco- very round the world j the i;iali iVom PREFACE. VU I his own J the his- 1 various F con- have ;i( his )r()vr, liitivc of enlargement of mind, of the energetic spirit of luiconquerable perseverance, ap- pears, from this Journal, to have, but too conspicuously, marked the chnracters of the French navigators. The whole Nar- rative possesses a considerable dashing of Gallic vanity. The amorous propensities of the French, which have often spoiled their fortunes, seem to have been the true cause of one of the most serious disasters wliich these voyagers met with, in tht* i:ourse of their whole cNpedition. The EXTRACTS from the pri\'ate corre- si'oNDENCE of La IVvnnisc himself and his companions, with tiieir friends in France, jidd little or nothing to the information in (he Jouriuil, but conlirm that inform:ition by nuiltiplieil testimonies, and e\in(e the voyagers to have li\'ed hap])ily together, to have retained a tender reinembiancc of the friends they had left in Fnince, and lo have been, e\erv one, viQiliniily atten- five to his proper functions in the prose- I'Uti'^n of the \'ovo2fe. 'O' ■It PREFACE. I M In the Abridgement of the Account cf this Voyage of La Peyrouse, only one continued Narrative has been formed. Anecdotes of the Life of La Peyrouse ; the substance of the Instructions which were given him ; the most remarkable particu- lars from the correspondence, are involved, in this abstracted narrative, with the tenor of the principal Journal. It was suppos- ed that, by this oeconomy, the Abridge- iMENT would be rendered more convenient to the reader, more interesting, more le- gitimately classical, as a composition, than if each particular part of the orif':*iial col- lection should be abridged by itself. Of La Peyrouse's work, the nautical matter is far the most valuable : And, lV)r this leason, extreme care has been used, not to mar this matter in abridging it. The information relative to Natural Hi^tory, and to human society, as being the most generally interesting to reatleis of all clas- ses, is here detailed with the aiuplest ex- pansion of the matter. The speculatio . oi M. de la Peyrouse, as being of into ior value, aic, for the greater pari, omitted. M PREFACE. xi I The discoveries made on the North-Ea«t coast of Tartary, being singularly import- . ant, are related at full length, with the careful display of almost every minute particular. The "Narrative of the Voyage of the Spanish navigator, Maurelle, is abridged in the second of the articles which com- pose this little Volume. His calculations of the latitudes appear to be very inaccurate. But, this abstract of his Narrative contains the only account which we possess in Eng- lish, of the intercourse of the Spaniards with the inhabitants of the newly disco- vered isles in the southern ocean. Mau- RF.LLE seems to have acted with considera- bly more of spirit, prudence, and fertihty of resources accommodated to tlie exi- gencies of a new situation, than were ex- ercised by L\ Pcyrouse in his intercourse with the ,c savage or barbarian islanders. The short narrative of Maurelle, throws more light than the whole Journal of La Pcyrouse, on the manners of the people Xll PREFACE. ,..i; ,''•; III' I I '!i of those remote isles, by which European curiosity has been so strongly attracted. The very valuable and well-written ac- count of the voyages of Vancouver, has been but just given to the public. It is the work of the commander by whom the expedition was conducted. It is to be la« mented,that a man so accomplished should have been called away, by a premature death, while the last sheets of his work were in the press, from the service of his country. The very brief abstract of Van- couver's narrative, wliich makes the third article in this volume, will clearly evince to the reader, the importance of Vancou- vl;i<.'s discoveries on the nortli-wcst coast of America, and will contribute, it is hop- ed, to diffuse wider the fame of his expe- dition, but cannot at all injure the sale of tht, (iriginul work, — of w hich it is, in truth, but a very meagre skeleton. Vancou- ver and his companions proved them- selves to be incomparably better (jualificd than the French navigators, vvith that pa- tient perseverancL", penetration, compre- I, European :tracted. 'ritten ac- JVER, has ic. It is A' horn the i to be la- ed should remature his work :e of his ; of Van - the third y evince Vancou- :st coast t is hoj). lis cxpe- e sale of in truth, ^AN'COU- l them- ualificd liat pa- oj np re- p R E F A c £. xm hensive sagacity, fortitude, and cool intre- pidity, which are necessary to the success- ful accomplishment of any very perilous and extensive voyage of discovery. Van- couver appears to me, to have suHicient- jy evinced the impossibility of any passage for ships, between the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans, withni those latitudes be- tween which this passage has been sought. But, I am far from believing, that he has traced the whole outline of the coast which he surveyed, with the most perfect accu- racy. He sailed over that parallel of la- titude in which La Peyrouse places his Port des Fmncois, without discovering its existence. And I doubt not but there re- mains much to be yer discovered on these coasts by the diligence of future navigators. II. C O N T E N-T S. m A. I ' -i "!' ill y La Pey rouse's Voyagei Page Chapter First. Do St g" o f tl le vova ge and course to the Isle of St Cathenne''9, on the eastern coast of rfouth Ameiica, Ci-i/iPTER SrccND. Voyage, observations, and transactions, from the 6th day of Novem- ber 1781;, to the 8:h of April 1786 j In- cluding the course from St Catherine's to E'.isttr Island ; with descriptions of St Ca- therine's •, the Sftt!cmont of Conception on the coast of Clillt, Sec. Chaptlr Third. Nirrativc of the voyage con- tiniutd, from their arrival at Easter Island, on the 9^1 of April 17S6, till their depar- ture from tlie iSandwich Isles, on the ist uf June. Description of Easter Island, with some pariiculiirs concerning ti.e liandwlch Isl es. Dhaptl;; Fourth. Narrative of the voyar;e continued, from the ist of June 1786, to the beginning of AuL;'jst : IncUi'lIng the course fri)m the oundvvich Isles to Port de Fran^'ois, with Its transac:ions, discoveiies, and misfoiluni-'Sf • • - !!hai'ter Fiftu N avrative fth e voynge con- tinued, from the be > \i">ning of Augusc to the end of September 1786 : Progress down the 13 4S CONTENTS, ar Pag 8 Page ; and m the s, and j in- e's to t Ca- on on : con- and, par- st uf with wIcU 13 J N. W. coast of America, from Port de Francois to Mvinterey : Discoveries and ob- servations on the coast : Description of the bay of Monterey : Astronomical observa- tions : Sketch of the present state of the two Calipfornias, &c. Chapter Sixth. Narrative of the voyage con- tinued, from the 24th of September 1786, to the id of January 1787. Course from Monterey to the road of Macao, [Chapter Seventh. Narrative of the voyage continued, from the 3d of Jaouary to the yth of April 1787. Transactions at Ma- cao, with a description of that place : Pas- sage to Luconia ; and thence ro Manilla : Description of Manilla, &,c. Chapter Eiohth. Narrative of the voyage continued, from the 9th of August 1787. Course to explore the N. E. coast of Cliina, rind Chinese Taitary : Discoveries in the sea of Japan, in the channel of Tartary, on the Tartarian coast, &c. Chapier Njnth. Narrative of the voyage continued, from the 29th of July to the 6th of September 1787. Transactions and dis- coveries in the Kaie dc Castries. Disco- very of a Streight dividing [esso from Oku- J esbo. oca bul arv o f t' le L anguage o f 'J'choka, named by the Russians, Segalien Course to Kamtbchatka, 6ic. 76 99 108 128 165 xvi CONTENTS. f I mh m Page m Chaptek Tenth, Narrative of the voyage continued, from the 7th of September to the 1st of October 1787. Transactions in the Bay of Avatscha : Short account of Kamtschatka : Departure upon a southern course, - - - , Chapter Eleventh. Narrative of the voyage continued, from the end of September to the 14th of December 1787. Course from the Bay of Avatscha, southward, to the Na- vigators' Isles. Anchorage at the Isle of Maouna : Manners of its inhabitants : Mas- sacre of M. de Langle, with eleven persons of the two crews. Isles of Oyolava and Pola : Intercourse with their inhabitants. Cocoa and Traitor Isles, Sec. Chapter. Twelfth. Narrative of the voyage continued, from tae 23d of December 1787, to the end of January 1788. Course from the Navigators' Isles to Botany- Bay. Ac- count of the Island of V vao. Traffic with the people of Tongataboo. Description of Norfolk Island, &c. Voyage of Don Antonio Maurelle, - Voyage of Captain George Vancouver, 193 212 ^93 259 393 I wi '•i'J:i F.,.,ii N A R R A T I V E OF A VOYAGE OF DISCO VEF.Y, rsY THE LATE M. DE LA PEYROUSK CH AIMER FIRST. DESION OF THE VOYAGK; AND COURSK TO THK tSLL OF ST. Catherine's, on the eastern coast of south AMiRitA. JL HE first family of the Viurann race -^vcre probably settled in one particular situ.itlon on the earth, in which they lived, vvithout any CKtensivc knowledge of the rest of its surface. Their immediate posteri- ty were dispersed by accidents, and in circumstan- ce';, which gave them no Inclination to systematic, j^eo;Traphical discovery, and which, for the greater part, as it should seem, occasioned the different tribes to lose the distinct remembrance of tlicir parent- seats, as well as to become careless of a mutual and a f ^cnt' al communication, Jrom time to time, with oue another. Casual wanderings betucen the seat of one tribe and that of another, first contributed to renew that mutual intercourse of mankind vNhicIt had seemed to be lest by their disper/ion. Incipient * LA PEYROUSE's voyage il commerce aided and extended this intercourse. War and the spirit of conquest soon arose, to re- imite various petty tribes under the dominion of one monarch. Colonization, conducted partly on the principles of conquest, and in part, on those of com- merce, did something more to make the human in- habitants, even of widely distant parts of the world, acquainted with one another's existence and circum- stances. The rise and progress of science, in Egypt, 5n Greece, in Italy, formed so many different cen- tres of knowledge. The establishment of the Ro- man Empire comprehended all these centres within one great system, the several different parts of which Lad a necessary correspondence with one anotner. The irruption of barbarous conquest destroyed this system, and dismembered all its parts. Christiani- ty, under the Roman Pontiff, endeavoured again to combine, and to civilize the world. A focus of the knowledge of the earth and of human society, w^as thus established in Europe. Crusading wars, and the navigation of the Mediterranean Sea and of the German Ocean, gradually enlarged the sphere of this knowledge, and enhanced its splendour. It was soon astonishingly expanded by the navigation of the Indian, and of the Atlantic Ocean. Piracy, com- merce, travels on land, voyages by sea, still stretch- ed wider its compass, cleared its avenues, and brought its most distant extremities virtually nearer together, by facilitating the mutual communication between them. Mankind ceased to be so many distinct hordes, and seemed to become, again, one great family. Ava- jjce, accident, conquest, had hitherto done all this. ROUND THE WORLD. J Benevolence and scientific curiosity were, at length, to lend their assistance. In a happy time, Georgk THE Third ascended the British throne : under his auspices, expeditions of benevolent discovery were sent out, to explore the southern and the northern ocean. The curiosity, the emulation of all Europe was awakened. France would contend with Britain In a career more illustrious than that of conquest. While Lewis the Sixteenth reigned., science and benevolence held a powerful inlluence in the French Administration. La PEYROusi: was sent out, to e- mulate and to complete, the discoveries of Cook., La Peyrouse was a' naval officer of great merit and experience. He was born at /Ylbi, in the year 1 74 1. He entered, as a viidshipman^ into the French Navy, in the year 1736. His gallantry wa3 emi- nently distinguished in the fam.ous naval engagement in which the French fleet, under M. de Conflans, was defeated, off Belleisle, by the English, command- ed by Admiral Hawke. The war between France and Britain ended. But La Peyrousk continued in active service during all the interval of peace, till France declared war, as the ally of America, against Britain, in the year 1778. He had, in this period, attained to the rank of Lieutenant ; and he was, now, quickly promoted to the command of a separate ves- sel. He executed with success, and not without ge- nerous humanity to the sufferers, an enterprise oa which he was sent, with three ships of war, from Cape Francois, in the year 1782, for the destructioa of the British settlements on Hudson's Bay, Hi* A 2 LA PEYROUSES VOTA^iE m II reputation, as a naval ofHcer, recommenc!ed him to tlie clioice of the French government, as n man lo Avhum the Cc.re of vir.dicatin*; to las country, the l^lory of naval, geographical dLscovcry, m'ght be Ht- \y intrusted, in tlie year 1785. The Ficnch Government, having projected th' ; •d;t f ];i, il fxpedition vvuii c;encrous views ot iiueral enquiry d emulation in science ; and havinLT, with "reat an ,->» (llsci rument, selected such an oJictv as JM. de la 1 eyiouse, to c.nduct it > failed r.ot to ado[ t every other possible precaution to fit it fur the successful accomplishment of those objects to attain which it was destined. I'wo frigates, La Boussoi-e and L'AsTRoLABE, were nppropri:\ted, as the most suita- ble vessels for the expedition. A very ample and cla!)oratc pa;KT oi ifrsfi uc'iotr? was prepared, to spe- cify to the intended navi;;ators, the plan of their voya^^e ; to direct their ^cotrrapbica/ and hyn^ro^ra- //)/t7;/ enquiries ; to. indicate those objects in /»u/uy and con:mcrcCy which they were to keep in view ; to j;uidc thcni in the ob!st sulta. iplc and , to spe- af their f>uiicy t'n ; to cl itive 'J itural rmnrss I ili.itc •spcct, e isle?-, '>;litcn or na- vatiun lon>r am At lillin liv. jiograpKlcal research, collected into a scries of elabo- rate uotes^ annexed to these instructions^ the most cu- rious expositions and discussions of all the most inter- esting, yet uncertain points, in the nautical geography of the globe, which might be expected to have new light thrown upon them by the obscrv:itIons of M, nii L\ Peyrousk and his co-adjutors. The French ^■/radftny of Sciences readily suggested, in an excel- lent memoir, every topic in all the diifcrcnt sciences, upon which the observations and cnfjuiries of the voyagers mij;ht usefully turn. The eyes of all Frame were earnestly turned upon an expedilioii which promised much gl'^ry to the nation, and grear improvements to the sciences and arts. Every one was eager to make his contribution towards its suc- cess. One communicated directions for new expe- riments upon the preservation of fresh water for usi; at sea : Another gave instructions for tlu collection rtad the pre«.ervation of vej^etahlcs and fossils : Some brought presents : Wlillc others were more lavish of advice. Ample stores of provisions for the :.hip^' cvc^vs,— of all those ttitlcs of l''.uro|)Can mnnufacturr, v\hi' h are known to he the most acceptable to savr.- p;es,"— of the Instruments of the different mechanic: nrt%— of vegetable seeds and plants, to be disscmt-. uUcd upon remote, fureiga coasts,— of all the Im- plements necessary for the Intended scicntlac cb',cr- viations,— with even a suitable nauthal and phllojo- phical library, — were, by the cues of the French A(hninislration, put on board the two frigates foi th'^ voyage. The llritlsh BoarJ of Lonffitude Icn^, fm* it*uplng compasses, which had h-.t^w ws'iX LA PEYROUSE's voyage :|| ft' .■■ '!i d ill Commodore Cock's last expedition. On board llic vessel La Boussole, were embarked to the num- ber of about 1 20 persons, under tbe immediate com- ir.and of M. di: la Peyrousk. The crew, and the otlier persons who sailed In L'^Vstrolabk, composed abcut an equal number. Astronomers, engineers, botanihts, mineralogists, draujs;htsmen, clock-makers, n physician, persons eminently qualified for all the different plans of observation and enquiry, to be pur- sued in the voyage, were ;imong these two compa- nies. M. DE Lanc.le, the friend of M. dk la Pey- RousE, was appointed to the command of thc^ frigate L'AsTR0LAr.E. In the beginning of July, in the year 1785, the frigates, with ihoir full compleintnts of men and stores, were ncaily ready to set sail from the port of Brest. On the jst day of August, they sailed from the Koad of Brest. On the l,^th, they had rcaciuil Madeira, without experiencing any remarkable ac- tidcnt. In this course, their notice was not parti- cularly attracted by any natural appearance, r,nve I hat luminousncvs of the surface of tl'": sea by nlglit, which has been often observed, in varbun places, and is supposed to proceed from some small plios- ]diorlc bodies, living or inanim (U'| dlti'uscd, iii infi- nite mu hitudt e, over the waves, At IMadcira, they were courteously welcomed by IVIr John:itoun a British merchant, Mr Murray the British consul, mul 1\I. Montcro, who Ijad the circ uf the business of the Trench consulate, 1 lom Mr Johnstcun, M. do h Feyrouse received n haiKlsome nrcscnl of fruit?', lemon Juice, rum, and vuuC. Duv- \'iil be ROUND TiiE WORLD. On board the iium- Hate com- , and the composed iiigliiecrs, .-mukers, :ir all the o be pur- ) conipa> LA Pev- ', In the ■)lemtnts >ail from rom tlie rc;ichcd iblc aC" t parti< c, r.-u'c pierces, 11 pllO.H- in infi- ncd by- ay t!u5 le c.irc >ni Mr ulsoiTie i Iii^T three days, the voyagers enjoyed the kind and sumpsuous hospitality of their attentive hosts. But, I\r. (Ic la Peyrouse had halted here only to purchase wine for tlie voyage j which, he now learned, might be had mure than one-half cheaper at TencrllTe. On the 1 6th, therefore, they sailed for that ibie. In the morning of the i8th, as they continued their course, Salvage Island appeared within view. Kuniiing down the east side of this isle, at about half a league distance from the land, M. de la Pey- rouse could perceive It to be bare of vegetation, and to exhiint at its surface nothin;; but beds of lava and (llflcrent matters of volcanic orijjln. He conceived its c (ia'«t to be so safe for shipping, that there might he an hundred fathoms depth of water, wiihin a cable's length of the land. Its position they found fiom tlicir time-keepers, and from astronomical ob* ifTvation, to be in i8" 13' \V. longitude. In 3:1" S' iV'N. latitude. On the 19th of August, at three o'clock In the afternoon, the two fiii,ates cast nncln.'r before 'I'l wi- KiFfE, in the road of Santa Cruz. Mere they were detained ten uayt; j receiving on l)oai(l slx^y pipc.n of the wine of the island, for which they hid brought emp'y casks. Krccting an observatory on shoic, i.'jion their arrival, they made n number of oI)scrva- lion^ to Hsteitain the precise movement of tijcir dlf- fcreiit time-keepers, ar.d the l)v:arings of the phce. 'J he position of Santii Cru/. was found to be iu »H" .V? 30" W. longiiudc. in :S" 27' yj' N. lati- Uu!'?. Their exporimcnts on the dipping compass ^iruvcd uucciuin aud unsaliif ictory in the ictuUs) W" LA PEYROUSE'S voyage IV't 1. 1 I *T which they attributed to the attraction of the iron- ore with which the whole soil of Tenerlffe is deeply- impregnated. The naturalists were not idle. IVL de la Martiniere made some botanical excursions ; found several interesting plants j and perceived the mercury in his barometer, which, at Santa Cruz stood at 28 inches and 3 lines, to fall on the summit of the famous Peak, to i8 inches 4|g. lines : At Santa Cru/, the mercury stood at 24^", in the thermometer ; but on the summit of the peak, subsided to 9". M. de Monncron, engineer, attempted to measure the height of the peak, by taking levels from its sum- mit, down to the sea-shore. Rut, the obstinacy of the mulettcers whom he had employed to attend him, with his instruments and baggage, during the operation, hindered him from completing it : And his notes of those steps which he had taken, have not been preserved *. During tlieir stay in the road of Santa Cruz, the French voyagers experienced many obliging civilities from the Marquis de Bran- clfoite, Governor- general of the Canary Islands. In the afternoon of the 30th of August, the voy- age was renewed. Unwilling to touch at the uu- hcallhy Cape he Vfrd islands, M. de la Peyrouse wisl^.cd to proceed with iin uninterrupted course, to the i.slc of La 'irinidada. They sailed through these calm seas, without any unpleasant accident. For a while, ihcy had the advantageous aid of the trade- * Hebirilcn'n niciiMircmciit ol the hci^^ht of the pc.ik of Tc- rxrilVc, nialies it 1,^71) toiits ; iViiillee, »,jij ; JJougucr, a,nv ; VuUuti, Qouli, and Pitijgrc^ l,')'-\» I en -1.1 th. ROUND THE WORLD, of the iron- ffe Is deeply t idle. M, excursions ; rceived the . Cruz stood nmit of the Santn Crux meter ; but f. M. de easure the •m its sum- bstlnacy of I to attend during the J it : And Iv.en, have n the road perienccd de Bran- ^lands. tiie voy- t the ui). Pcyrouse uursc, to mh these Tor a ie trade- I Kvind'5. Solicitous to preserve the health of his cre^\•s, as successfully as had been done by Cook, La .P«r^!ou-e now made the sp:ice bctwet^n the decks to be fiimi'ZHted, and was careful to have the hammocks taken down, while circumstances would permit, from c:!;ht o'clock in the morning till sunset. By the direction of the trudc-wind, he was obliged to sail parallel to the coast of Africa, longer thaa he had intended, at about six^y leagues distance from the lii.'.d. On the 29th cf Stptcmber, and In the iSlh de^^ree of western longitude, they crossed the equi- noctial line. From the Line, a S. E. wind pursued them as far as 20° 2,' south laiitudc. Nor were thfy able to get into the precise latitude of Trlni- dada, till after they had run about 23 leagues of longitude, eastward from it, Man-of wnr biids fol- lowed them, In considerable numbers, from 8" N. Irttltude, till they had proceeded 3" S. from the lire. Their course was interrupted by none of those c drns nhich some seamen fear, under the Line, in these latitudes. Soon after their departure from 'I'enciiffj, the skies ceased to exhibit the clear azure of the temperate zones. From the rising to th« setting of the sun, a dull hazy whltoncss, somewiuit between fog and clouds, conslantly obscured the at- mosphere, and contracted their visible horiz-Mi to the compass of about three leagues. Bi;t, the nighti ucrc radiant and serene. At 10 o'clock in the morning of the i6lh of Oc- tober, they came within sight of the Isles of 1\Ia«.- TiN Vas These islci arc only bare rocks. They arc three In number \ separated from (Mie another, IC LA PEYROUSe's VOYAGifi 'H i\'^ li il by small intervals ; and, even tKe largest, but abor.t a quarter of a leafTue in circunnference. Theli , position is in 20^ 3c' 33" S. lut. in 30" 30' W. long. 1 hey came ^vItbin Mgbt of the Island of Trtn:- DADA, about sunset, on the same day. At 10 o'clock r^xt morning, M. de la Peyrouse was surprised to perceive the Portuguese Hag llying in the midst cf a small port, at the bottom of an inlet formed by the S. E. point of tlie isle. In the morning of the 18th, Lieutenant de V^aujuas, M. de la Martinierc, and Father Recevcur, went on shore, in a pinnace from L*Astrolabe. The surf ran so high, that, but for the ready assistance of the Poituguese, the beat's crew must have perished. About two hun- dred men were found to compose the Portuguese establishment on this isle. These had come, about a J ear before, from Rio Janeiro, to take possession of it. Little pleased with the curiosity of their vi- sitants, they would not permit even the botanists to go beyond the beach. In search of plants. Neither wood nor water, was to be here procured. The Portuguese assisted in putting olV the boat from the 'strand. And the Frenchmen rclurncd on board their ship, disapppolnted of every object which they had sought on the isle. Anotlur boat fiom M. dc la Pcy route's own ship. La Bousso/c, Hive wise ap- proached the shore, under the command of Lieu- tenant Boutin. He sounded the road to within musket shot of the beach ; and found its bortom to be rocky, with a little sand. M. de Monncron, who went in the boat, made an exact drawing of the port. £ ROUND THE WORLD. Jl St, but about ice. Their 30" 3^' W. nd of TarNr- U 10 o'clo( k surprised to the midft of formed by rning of the Marttnlerc, 1 a pinnace high, that, ugucse, the t two hun- Portuguese omc, about i possession of their vl. DGtanlsts to Neither red. The t from the on board vlilch they om M. dc vcwise ap- of Licu- to within bottom to cron, who tijc port. |kf . de Lamanon observed the rocks to be composed (i^f basaltes, with other substances of volcanic origin. The island of Trinidada presents to the eye nothing but a barren rock, having, in some narrow glens ■mong its heights, a few shrubs and a slight appear- ance of verdure. The Portuguese have fixed their Establishment in one of its glynns, in the south-east cuarter of the island, which spreads out into a val?: jiibout 300 toises in width. Jt is rather to prevent ibthers from occupying it, than for the sake of any advantage it can afford to themselves, that the Por- J^uguesse have made a settlement on Trinidada. Its '^outh-east point is in the southern latitude of 20** 31' J and, by lunar observation, in the western longitude of 30*^ 57'. It had been, before, for a time, occupied by the English. The Portuguese garrison or colony are, for the present, supplied with necessaries from Rio Janeiro. On the 18th of October, the frigates sailed west- waid. From the 18th to the evening of the 241!! they went on in the same direction, in a fruitless .search for the isle of Ascen^aon. M. de la Pey- rouse then abandoned the search, and concluded that no such island had existence. But, he had ex- plored only the space of "j^ of longitude W. from Trinidada, between the S. Latitudes of 2*^ 10' and 20" 30'. It is probable, that, if he had advanced ? .ibout i" farther westward he would have discover- ^ I'd the isle he sought, which docs not yet deserve to be c: dfi xpungca Horn ine maps th A violent stotm assailed the voyagers on the 75th jf October. 1 hey were enveloped in a circle of J^ LA PEYROUSE'S voyage w ■I fire, about the hour of eight in the evening. Light- t enings flashed from every point of the horizon: and Jatnbcnt flames of the corposanto or Will-vcith the 'Cois/i, settled on the point of the electrical conductor of La Boussole j and on the mast-head of L'Astro- LABE, which was without any electrical conductor, but at no great distance from Its companion. As they proceeded, the weather continued from this time stormy, and they were surrounded by a thick fog, till they reached the Isle of St Catherine's, contiguous to the eastern coast of the continent of South America. On the 6th of November, they anchored between St Catherine's and the mainland, in water which was seven fathoms deep, with a bottom of muddy sand. CHAPTER ROUND THE WORLD. 13 lorlzon: and Will-vcith th,'- :al conductor of L' Astro- il conductor, Janion. As jd from thli, I hy a thick rATHI'RINE's, continent of :mber, they e mainland, ^APTEK ill CHAPTER SECOND. • ■ ' f . VOYACE, OBSERVATIONS, AND TRANSACTIONS, FROM THE SIXTH DAY OF NOVI.MBER I"85, TO THE EIcnTH or APRIL 1786; INCLUDING TIIK COURSE IROM ST CATtl ER INe's TO j;a.ster-isi-and; with descriptions of st cathirine's; the settlement of conception on the coast of CHILI, &^-'. The isle of St CATncRiNE''s is, in breadth from east to west, only two leagues j but extends in length, from 27" 19' Ji"to ?7° 41/ S. latitude. It is se- parated from the adjacent mainland by a channel which, at its narrowest part, exceeds not the width of 2C0 toises. On the point of the isle which here juts out into the channel, is situated the city of Nottra Sennra (id Dcs,'t'fo. which contains about 4C0 houses lodging not more than 3000 souls, and is the capital of the isle, in which its governor resides. I'he interior surface of this isle is overspread with forests of lofty evtrgreens. with an impervious thick- ness of briars and other creeping plants, among their trL.nk> below. Snakes, of which the bite is mortal, lu'k in the thickets. Fruits, vegetables, corn, are pri'duced in inexhaustible j)Ienty, and almost spon- taii ously, by the natural fertility of the soil. The h.ioitations are all contiguous to the sea-shore A- rouiid them are pl'.mted oran_»i,e -trees, with other odoriferous plants and ihiubs of the most delight- B 14 LA l>rvRO use's vovare m fill fraitrrancc. The surrounding seas abound with whales, the subjects of a lucrative fishery. In the approach of ships to the isle, a muddy bottom, with 70 fathoms depth of wather, is found at 18 leagues distance. From this, the water becomes gradually shallower to the depth of four fathoms, at the distance of four cables length from the land. The common passa5:f for vessels, is, between the Nor<^h point of St Cnthrrine's and the islrt of Ahnreff). The best archora;^e is at iialf a !eaj;ue from fnrt-hle^ in six fut'.^oins of water, with a muddy bottom, adjacent to several convenient wnterii^j^ places on St Catherine's and on the conllnent. The sea is very heavy, and breaks always on tlie leeshorc. The tiles are very jrrecjular, cntf-r at both ends of the channel, and rise only three feet. The Isle of St Tatherine's was first occupied by fujfitii-'cs from the Uraxils. About the year 1740, the covrt of Lisbon established, here, a regular go- Vf.viment, comprehen-Jinf^, together with this isle, som • part of the a(1jacent continent. OF tl;-'! go- vernment, the extent from North to South, fioii the liv.r San Frrncisco to Rio Grande, is 6o leagues. I'S population is estimated, perhaps under the tru'h, Ht about 2o,oco souls. l]ut, the people are indo- le! t and poor. Nature is so bountiful, that they know not those wants which are recjuislte to excite Tnan to industry. I he whale-fishe«) is the jjri^pcrty of the Crown, and is farmed by a company at Lis- bon. About 400 whales are, every year, killed here. But, fio.u these, little gain is derived to the. people of bt Catherines. Ihe produce of the fish- t< ROUND THE WORLD. 15 ounci ivitli y. In the ttom, with 18 leasTues 1 gradually le distance e common I point of The best 1/?, in six djacent to 'atheriiie's eavy, and s are very 1, and rise ;upied by far 1740, :gu]ar go- this islc^ \h'-i go. , fi'/it the Icd'gues. )'C truth, ue indo- lat they to excite I'l-i^pcrty / at Lis- r, killed "t! tn the. the fibh- i eiy, oil, whal' bone, and spermaceti, is sent annually to. Lisbon, by the way of Rio Janeiro. At the approach of the French frigates, several alarm guns were fi'<;d from the different forts. M. tie Pierrevcrt, third lieutenant^ or Enscigne ile vaisieau, licin^f imm''diately sent a«.hore, found the garrison of the citadel, 4© men u-ith a captain commanding them, all under arniB. Aw express was instantly sent to the governor Don Francisco di Baros, In the town j who readily gave orders to furnish the voyagers with whatever they wanted, at the lowest prices ; and appointed an officer to attend on each frigate, and assist there in their purchases. On the 9lh of November, Messrs de la Peyrouse and dc Langle went both on shore, with several of their officers. They were received by the commander of the fort, with the discharge of fifteen guns j which was re- turned by an equal number from the frigate La Boussole. A boat, under the command of Lieu- tenant Boutin, with a number of other gentlemen on board, was, on the following day, sent to thank the governor, at the town, in M. de la Peyrouse's name, for his attentions, which had been already found very beneficial. He received them with great po- liteness, entertained them at dinner, and favoured them with some interesting information concerning these parts. On the i Jjth Don Antonio de Gama, miioi-general of the colony, visited the voyagers on bo:ud their shi ps. and was the b( eartr of a very o- bliging letter from his commander to M. dc la Pey- rouse. The stay of the voyagers in the road of St Catherine's, was protracted longer than they had B 2 i5 LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE M '■ expected, because the southerly winds and the cur- lents were so strong, as frequently to interrupt their intercourse with the land. Provisions were, for- tunately, plentiful and cheap. A large ox might be bought for eight dollars *, a hog of i jO pounds weight, for four dollars •, two turkies, for one j 500 oranges, for half a dollar. To procure abundance of fishes, It was necessary only to cast and haul the net. So benignantly hospitable were the people of the isle ; that, when one of the ship's boats, bring- ing wood, happened to be overset, they not only risked their lives to save the sailors, but, at night, resigned to them their onn beds, and themselves lay upon mats on the floor. The masts, grapnel, and colours of the boats, though not found till some days after, were not appropriated by the finders, but brought carefully on board, and restored. The of- ficers who went out to shoot on the isle, killed seve- lal birds of beautifully variegated plumage j among the rest a rollier of a fine blue colour, and not de- scribed by Buffon The clouded sky, and the uncer- tainty of their stay, hinderf'd them from making any considetable astronomical observations. But, they fornd the longitude of the most northern point of the i;dc. to be \(f .;y' W. Here, too, they were careful to provide themselves with orange and lemon trees, v^ ith the seeds of oranges, of lemons, of the cotton shrub, Indian corn, and the other vegetables which the inhabitants of the islands of the South t3ea, were understood to be most in want of. In the road of St Catherine s, our voyagers could not but make themselves very happy. At their arrival jn of th( pa ce; on an mi ROUND THE WORLD, «7 nd the cur- errupt their were, for- B ox might [jO pounds r one 5 50a abundance id haul the : people of lats, bring- ^f not only , at night, themselves ;, grapnel, d till some inders, but The of- illcd seve- e J among d not de- :he uncer- aking any But, they n point of hey were md Jemon IS, of the egetables le South t of. In ould not ir arrival ^ Kn it, they found, that after 96 days sail, not a man of them xvas sick. Their provisions were good ; the utmost care was used to keep the air fresh in all parts of the ship 5 for the sake of the exercise ne- cessary to health, the crew had been called to dance on almost every evening, brtwixt the hours of eight and ten : And, as they had hitherto experienced no misfortunes, their spirits were still lively. Before their departure, M. de la Peyrouse, the commander of the expedition, thought it prudent to give to M, dc Langle, captain of L'Astrolabe, a new and much niore extensive set of signals than they had hitherto used J and they agreed, that if separated, they should next rendezvous in the harbour cf Good Success ia Lemaire's Streights \ for, they were now to enter tempestuous seas, under a fuggy atmosphere, where new piccaations were requisite. Before their de- parture, tliey committed to the care of the governor, who undertook to forward them, their packets of' letters for France, addressed to the care of M. de St Marc, the French consul-general at Lisbon. By break of day, on the 19th of November, they had weighed their anchors, and were under sail. In the evening of the same day, they had left St Cathe- nne^, and all its surrounding^ islets, behind them. Till the 28th of November, they enjoyed very <^ine weather. On that day, a violent gale of wind from the Fast, assailed them. It was in W. lonj^. 43" 40' S. lat. 35° '4'. M. de la Peyrouse wished to visit the Isle Grande of the maps. On the 7tli of December, the frigates had entered that parallel of latitude within which this ible had been said to lie, B X x8 LA PEYROUSE's voyage ■?'l m M \ :'* Sea weeds were setn to float by the ships •, and they were, for several days, surrounded by birds of the j^/hntross and Prtnl species. The seas rolled moun- tain hi;di around. 15ut their ships, thou^rlmot swift sailers, were well adapted to endure the billows and the blasts. Till the 24ch of December, they kept standing upon dilTerent tacks, between the 44*' and tile 4;," of latitude, and in that parallel, ran down the 15*^ of longitude. But, on the 27th they aban- doned the searcii \ helievintjf that the pretended Lsio Granch' had no cvistence \ and that the inilicaiions of the sea-weeds and the fowls were falhicious. Yet, there are probabilities which make this Isle GntnJc not un^vorlhy of a .search by some future na\i;^ator. Tiie necessity of hnstenin<; on, to double the dreaded Ciipe Horn in the least unf.ivoiirable season of the vcar, perhaps hurried IVI. de la Pcyrous.; to rclin- r]msh this enquiry piematurely. On the 2sth, the >vind bcttleil at Sontli West. Continuing, fur scvc- ral days, to blow in this direction, It ubligtd tiie fri^atts ti) sletv W. N. VV. These ^uUs censed with the ni'>Mth of December j and faiiuaiy proved nearly such as July is, on the coasts of Kuropc. The only winds they experienced for a while, were now in u dirtctiou from Noilh-VVest to South-Wcsi j aiid the chi'n^;rs of tiicsr winds were constantly in< dicaled by previous chan^.'s in the aspect of tho »ky. l''o^^8 and clouds indicated an approaciilu;; Veering of the v.iud fiom Soulii-West to Wt^t \ but, wllhin two hours, this was always succccdid by a va- liation to t.lic Noith-Wcst. V.'heii 1. 10 fo_os cleared up, the AinUs retur.icd \,o iLo \N C5t uud the boutli- \ |: ROUND THE WORLD. '9 ps ; and they birds of the rolled moun- \io]\ not swift J billows and r, they kept the 4^1** and I, ran down h they jiban- retendcd L/r indications clous. Yet, /r/t" Grundt: e na\i;^ator. tlie dreaded ason of the u»^ to relin- e 2sth, the 1^, fur scvc- ubli^td the 'ales ccnscil uaiy proved .iropc. 'i'lif; , were now outh-Wcsl i iisfantly in* )cct of tha tppiDacIiiti^r VV^t^t 'y but, iid by n Vii- ();;s vicarcd :l.c South- West. In 66 days, the wind did not blow from the X^astward, for more than iS hoars. Calm weather, for several days, ensued : The seas were smooth ; And tlie olHcers sailinEf out in the boats, i,hot num« bins of the great and small albatrosses, and of petrels of difi'ercnt varieties, whicli Hew around them, which alVordcd some very iicce[)table meals of fresh meat ta tlie sailors. On tljc 14th of January i7HA,they struck ground on the coast of Patagonfa, in 47" (»o' S. Latitude, and in 64" y,' \V . Longitude. On the 21st of the same month, they came within Mght of Capk Faki ^Wkathhr, the north point of tlie river of C/n/A'^oSf ^ on V t Patagoniin coast. They were, at this time, i.t thrf'e lt:iguts distance from the land, in water 41 . fathoms deep, and over a bottom of argillaceous gra- , vel. On the 2-d, at noon, they were oiV the Cap!!; , CK Tin; Virgins, bearing four leagues VV. The land is low, and almost disiitute of verdure. An exact view of it had been given by the Editor of ^/nson\t loytn^T ; and its po ilion is accurately fixed in the Chart of Ctici's Sccjh// Vuym^^i'. IJithtrto, the lead % had always brought up mud or a mixture of small I ptbbks y itii mud. But, when thsy came opposite td ii 'J'jSRRA jU'L FuEco, they found a rocky bottom, and fl c/nly from ^4 t ) 30 fathoms of water, even at threo leagues of distance from the land. On the 25th, at 2 o'clock, tluy wire a league southward from San D'loo, the vvcblcrn poii.t of Lk AIaire';; brRiiourx. A*: 3 oVlotk, th:'y entered tiic .itrel/hls ; havln;( dujblcd point ban Dleijo, at three cpiartcrs of « Iti'^uc of dittar.'.c from it. At the point arc luraJIfm LA PKY BO USE'S VOYAGE /rr, extending perhaps rot more than a mile j others, ■which are seen in the offing beyond, obliged the voyagers to steer to th" south- east, to avoid them. But it was afterwards observed, that these breakers were occasioned by currents, and that the reefs of San Die go were a grcit way off. It blew fresh from the north *, snd our voyager^ approached with- in half a league of the land of Ticira del Fuego. But, as the wind was fair, and the season far ad- vanced, M. do la Peyrouse abandoned his intention of entering the harbuur of Good bucc^:** •, and he-Id onwards, without loss of time, to double Cafe Ho^n. ']'he Island of Juan Fcrnandez was the place at which he now put posed to make the tirst halt f^'r the sr>ke of refreshments. As they proceeded through the 3trtig:^' • saw themselves invited to land, by frcjuent lircii Kindled by the savages, who pcrctived thtm from llie shore. '1 hey wcic surroiiudtd by whales which •warn about t'le frlgcttrs, without alari-^. Na pi.ice in the world t a afiord a more successful vvl^ak- lishcry than might be carried on htrc. Thrir en- trance into th" J^treiijhts was at ^ o'clock in the af- ternoon, iiil fjve, they were diiUfd lapidly south- ward, before tlic tide. At five, the tide turned j but a strong breeze from liie nort!) carried them still on, in the same direction. 5a misty was the horizon, in its eastern (juurtur, that they did not per- ceive Statln Land, the ea!.t»!rn boundary of the Slret'.'hts, although they were withm .css than 5 leagues of it. I hey d )ul?led Cape Horn mucli more easily than they had cx^ifclcd. Their lucces? may the narr: seanf-i C) oppo HOUND THE WORLD. 2f may cuntrlbute to lessen those terrors in recrard to the navigation round this promontory, which the narnitive of ^'in\otCs Voyage has long excited amoKg seamen. On the 9th of February, they found thcmstlvcs Ol^po^ite to the western tntrxnce of ihc JSTRticfirs OF Magf.lhal'ns, in their course for t'.ic islaiu! -if Juan Fernandez, In the South br.A. Fiut ;in ex.unl- natlon of the state of their stores of water and b's- cuit, here induced them to relinquish their desijn of vIsitiniT that islo, and to a^cr tiicii* course f^r the Spanish settlement of Conception, on the const of Chili On the morning of the ..6th, they arrived within slight of tht isle of M(X!Ia. abort 50 leagues south from Conception. Afruid of being drifted north^vard by currents, they here turned in towards the land. At 2 o'clock in the afternoon of the 8imc day, they duubUH \\it point of the island of Qui'^iMRiNA. As the southerly winds were , now, by the change in thtir course, ndvcise \ they were, from this point, obligf:d to stand ufi'in tail\ and to lufi the lead constantly go'in^. They in vain looked tlirough their glassvs, to dscovcr the city of Con* ception, at the bottom of the bay. But pilots came on board at 5 o'clock in tht • cniiig, by uhom hey ucrc informed i that the old city had been 1 lid in ruins by un earthquake in the year 1751 } and that a new town had been built on the banks of the ri- ver lh':)h:o^ nbout three leaguti inland. From the »i> ■! ■ pilots ,they received, also, the ngrccable news, that, in con-tctjuence of letters from the Spanish Mi- ni»;cr, they were already expected at Conception. At Kj o'clock in the evening, they anchored in y fa- £2 LA PEYR.OUSE's voyage ..4 If •iiiit thorns depth of water, and not far from the bottom of thf bay. At 7 next morning, they weiG^hed an- chor ; and, with their biats loivi'ig them a-hcad^ eu- tevcd the creek of Talcaguana w ere, at 1 1 o'clock A. ]\I. on the 24tli of February 17S6, they cist an- clior in *' fuhoms depth of water, over a bottom ot black mud. The bay of Conception is an eminently comma- Jious harbour. Its water is smooih, arid almost ■without a current. The tide, how«vev, rises 6 feet ^ inches ; and the tlcjod is at its height at 4^ minutes aftc^r I o'clock A.. M. under the full and under the chanpinq moon. It is sheltered from all bit tiie north winds : And these, here, blow only in the rai- ny season from the end of May to the bej^inning of October. On the soatli-cast shore, off th^ village of Talcanuana, the only settlement now in'the bay, there is anchorage under shelter from the northeast winds of the winter. The ruins of the old town of Conception are still to be seen at the mouth of the liver of St Peter, eastward from Talcaguana, In the year 1763, the site for the new town was mark- fit out, on the banks of the Biobio, at the distance of three lca;;uc» inland from the ruins of the old. It contains about 10,000 inhalv'^nts •, is the seat of the Hishop and of the Major general, commander of all the force's of the colony \ and possesses the cpiscopnl cathedral, and all the vcllj'iouf houses. '1 he bi- Rhoprick is conterminous, on one hand, with that of San jago, the capital of the government of C'.iiii ; is skiitt'd to the eastward bv the Cordilleni". ; Hnd cxtenJs southward to the Sircights of M igelhatuv. But, trict the % Spar :. P I 'KOUND THE WORLD. 23 e bottom iG^'ied an- ■hcad^ eu- 1 o'clock y cast an- Dottom 01 ' comma- d almost SC8 6 feet \ minutts jnder the 1 bat tiie n the rai* [inning of 1^ village 'the bay, orth east I town of h of the ana, In AS mark- ilintance old. It .It of the cr of all plscopal '1 hf hi. 1 that of f Chili ; s ; Rnd elhaeiiK. But, except tic island of Chil e, and a smnll dis- trict round iialillvia, the whole country south from the Piiobio, is inhabited hy Indians who own not the i^ioanish dominion, and who are almost always at war Avith the Spaniards. 'I'lic pre«!('nt p,ov(.'rnnu'nt is ^' holly military and ecclesiastical : Jjut a superin- L'.ndant, or civil governor, is about to be added to l^.e establistiment. The soil of the surrounding' tenitory is prodigl- ^^'.isly fertile. The plains are covered v/ith an abun- dant luxuriance of berba^^e, and with flocks and herds iimumerable. The increase of 'rrain is 60 [old. 1 he vinfVHjds are alike ftrtilc. Great num- bers of oxen are every year killed, for the sake of the tallow and hides alone, which nre preserved and ent to Limi. Ihc climate is remarkahly hea'*hy j iina many of the people live to an extreme old a^e. The commerce of this country is, however, su! jcct to restrictions, which prove exceedingly inju;i'>us to the (;fneral prosperity of the inliaWitants. Four ov live vessels arrive every year fronv,Lima, with su- i,';ir, tobacco, and a lew ttrticles of Kuropmn mapu- lacturc, the prices of which are enhanced by the most exorbitant duties. Wheat, tall )av, V.Ide , a f(!w planks, and soni'" gold, ar- the only exports nith which payment can bt^ n)adf for thos<' article* of importation. About 200,000 dollars may be tl>c tola' value of the gold annually co-k-cted from the sail. Is of the rivers within the bi'.hopiick of Concep- tioM. The inhabitanlH ;;athcr it by sifiii g and wasii- ing tMs sand •, and to the aiuourjt ^i h'df a d'/i'ar h- day, may thus bv vAincd by tiie iiiuuitry uf « single 24 LA PETROUSE's voyage Is person. But, the abundance of necessriries for sub- sistence, leaves these people wlihout excitements to industry which might animate them to pursue any branch of it with perseverance an/er this, nre worn a muslin and an woollen cloak ; the mi^slin clwak at all I mes •, the woollen c'oak only \\V*:\ in the stttcts or I'le fKlds. 1 hese females arc, in general, jiritty and uolite. The //u/innt of ChW'i have become much more Tir- mlcbblo as cnemit-'s, than when this legion was liist co.qiiercd by the Spaniards. I he hoiscs, oxen, and sliecp, whic h the Spani.irds introduced, li ivc rouMidicd throiigliout 3outh .\incr.ca, to mnu JiSi: nu'v.bcrs liie 'iulli\n'« have become m titers otll» <{.% tnd licids, I hey arc ever on horstb:ick, and iu arms. «! .ft ROUND THE WORLiJ. iS more . ir- was liist cd, li ivc or ll » i\» iu arms. of warlike cavalry, like tlie aticient Tartars of the north of Asia. They cover themselves with the skins of their cattle, feed upon their milk and llesh, and even drink their warm blood. The«e circum- s for sub- '^m They journey, with their herds, in continual excur- 2me;its to S sions through the deseits. They are now a nation Lirsue any ^s. rhe but little jreigners, the ladies uiT of the onks and 'nt J and rhe com- le of the al inhabi- f tlie true nents arc are wont those oi powder, Beside oJdice or lit' worn chnik at H" StltctS 1, pr.Lty ^ stances, in their altered mode of lite, make it not dilHcult for them to collect armies, even of many thousands of men, to oppose the Spaniards. From the Spaniards in the settlement of Concep- tion, our navigators experienced a warmly hospitablft reception. Scarcely had the frigates anchored at Talcaguana, when M. de la Peyrouse received a polite letter of welcome, accompanied with refresh- ments of all sorts in great abundance, from M. Quexada, who, in the absence of Major-general lliggins, commanded at the town of Conception. The first care of tlie French captain, was, to give orders for the refitting of the vessels, and to see that the astronomical clocks and quadrants should be carefully deposited on shore. The day following, IVTcssrs dc la Peyrouse and de Langle, with several of the subordinate olhcers and of the men of science, set out for Corccption, on a visit to 1 Qiexada, and their other kind invitcrs. A detachment of dragoons escorted them on their journey. They alighted at the house of Fvl. Sabatero, commandant of the artillery. They were entertained with an excillcnt dinner. In the evening, there was a ball, at which the principal ladies of the town were pre- sent, and w'lich lasted till midnight. The French genthcmcn slept for the nigln in Hpurtments provid- l(y LA PEY rouse's VOYAGE •'W. ed for them In the house of INI. Sabatero, and of some others of the principal ii^habltants of the town. On the next day they visited tlic bishop, and others of the ])rinc!pal citizens. l"he bishop they found to be I! man of uncommon merit. Major-general ;Hi;7;oius was absent upon an expedition against the India; s. Upon his return, he came instantly to wait upon the French g»'iitlemen at Talcaguana. I\I de la Pey rouse, sooii after, gave an entertainment, in a tent pitclied by the sea-side, to an i^o of the gentle- men and ladies of Conception. After the dinner, the company were entertained with fire-works and the fligl't of a p.iper-balloon. On the following day, tljc conimandf rs gave, in the snrae tent, a festive en- tcrtfiinmcnt to iho crcAvs of the two frigates. They .-"at, nil, at one table 5 IMcssvs de la Pcyrouse and de Langle at the head J tie rest down to the lowest sailrr. every one according to the rank he held. They ate out of wooden dishes : All was gaiety : And every one felt himself far happier than on the day on \\hich they left the harbour of Hrcst. Ano- ther entertainment given by Cieneral IJiggins, at the city of Conception, carried all the French ger.tlffmen thither, except those oilirers who were detained on actual duty. 'I'hc dinner was sumptuous: All the principal Inliabitants of the city were present : Hc- tween tha duT.-rent co.;r«.cs, a I'tamiscan monk of the company, recited sjmc c\temj)oraty verses in the Spanish language, on the h ^pny ntnity then subsisting I'ctwccn the French and the ^ipan'sh nations. A l>all formed thf: nmuscnuMit of the evening, and was ••raced by the presence of A\ \}\c ladies In their be«.i ■r ROUND THE WORLD. ^7 , and of ho town. id others ev found r-general linst the y to wait , I\I de lent, in a le (jentle- e dinner, .'orks and ,ving day, sstive en- i. They »e and de le lowest he held, s [rnlety : n on tlie A no- ns, at the cr.tlffrnen aincd on All the nt : He- nk of" the s in the Libslstinji oiis. A and was [\\'Av best dresses. Some ollicers in masks, danced a very pretty ballet. In the mean time, the vessels were dilif^ently refitted *, provisions, wood, and water, were, with great alacrity, conveyed on board j and tlie crew, having accomplished these duties before the day on which they knew that they were to s lil, obtained the agreeable permis>ion to divert them- selves for some short time, also, on shore. One of iheir time-keepers waa here found to have lost, oti the mean movement of the sun, only at the rate 3!" a-day, since their departure from Brest j a difference of but half a second from its rate of daily movement jS at Brest,— of a whole second from its movement at I'enerifTe. Nothing but tlie most perfect harmony reigned between the French crews and the people of the colony, during the whole stay of the Frencli in this harbour. On the i3lh of March, M. de la Pey rouse made the signal to prepare to sail. Contrary winds, how- ever, detained them, till the 17th. About noon ou the 17th, a light breeze from the S. W. enabled them to leave the harbour. But, they were be- calmed in a strongly swelling sea, before they had advanced more than two leagues from its mouth. During the night, they were surrounded by whales, which, from their spiracles, ejected water on board the ships. But, no whale- lishery has ever been at- tempted in these seas. On the i(^th, a soutlierly wind enabled the frigates to assume the direction to the island of Juan FtRNANorz. They weie, how- ever, disappointed in their alte.iipt to find that isle, •Ml account of the inaccuracy of those authorities to C 2 ■T^ Tt 2» 1 ..■ LA I' K V R O U S E S \ O Y A C K ^>ljlch llicy trusted, in respect to its position. On the 2j;cl, they were in the S. latitude of yf 28' and nccordin;( io their time-keepers in the W. loiiintudc of Sy si'. C)n the 24tli the wind settled at East : Nor did it vary y* till they came \vithi:i 120 leagues of Easti-r Is/iitid. On the 3d of April, in S. latitude ■X"}^ 3' and in 101*' W. longimdc, the winds bleu- upon them from N. K. to N. \V. On the 8th of April, at 2 o'clock in the afternoon, they came with- in sight of Easter Island. The sea ivas then high : The wind blew from the North j and for the four preceding days, the winds had been continually shift- ing by W. from N. to S. In the night, the frigates kept in a parallel direction to the coast of Easter Island, at three leagues distance from it. At day- break, they steered for CooPs Bay^ which is, of all those in the isle, the best sheltered from winds blowing from the East. The isltwders soon saw their approach j and, in canoes, hastened out to meet theiiu 11 1 r C M A P, ROUND THE WORLD. 29 ion. ih\ if 28' and lonirituclc J ut East : 20 leagues S. latitude vJncIs blew the 8th oi" :amc with- hcn high : r the four aally shift- he frigates of Easter At day- 1 is, of all om winds s soon saw cd out to C 11 A P, CH A H TKK THI K 1). ^M* NAKKATIVE OK TlIK VOYAGi: CONTINUED, FROMTMEIR AR- KI\.\I. AT I.ASri.R ISLAM', ON TIlK yi H (iC APJIIU I786, I II. I. TIILIR OrrAKTURK IK(/M Til t; SAM) Wit II TSI. i:S, ON TiiK isT or JUNK. ni'.scRivriiiN oi- eastkk island, WITH SOMK I'ARTICUI.AR-S CONCtRNiNO TJIE bANDWiCIl ISLES. IN Eastkr Island, Caok''s Bay^ the only har- bour In these latitudes that is siieltered from the K, ami S. E. winds, is yituate in 27" 11' S. Latitude, in III" 5^' 30" W. Longitudf, Alter (luub/ing the two rocks at tiie southern point of the isle, and coasu ifi^ =dong at the distance ot a mile froni the siiore, a ship conies within si^^ht ot a small, sandy creek. When this creek bears \.o it in the direction of E- by S. — the two rocks being ut the same time hidden under the pjlnt j anchora|.;c will uijen be found in 20 fatlioins water, with a sandy bottom, at a quarter of a league's di^^'.unce fiom the shore. Early In the morning of th(. ^tii of April, the French voyagers landed, with somewhat of niilitaiy parade, intended to strike with awe the niinvls of the Islanders, wl lU c row ded roun d tl lem. The coast of the isle, here, rises to the lielgiit of about 20 feet above the level of the t.ea. i'rom thu sea-beach, the surface ascends with a gentle acclivi- ty, for about 700 or 8oD tolscs, to the basis of the interior hills. Thit; sloping plain is covered with U3 30 LA PETROiySE'S VOYAGE ill III 1'>'m of the his. riic up to the :w bushes hich were the only ;d to live di« small ''M '■-% ■f The people appeared to live dispersec separate communities j each community occupying one common habitation j perhaps cultivating their division of the ground, and enjoying its fruits Ih common j not very attentive, it may be, to the distinctions of chastity, the purity of virgin inno- cence, or the sanctity of the marriage-bed j obey- ing each, one chief j and depositing the bodies of their dead in one common burying- place. The whole population of the Isle may be about 2000 souls. The m€n have resorted to the sea-shore, on the approach of ships from Europe, in numbers so much greater than those of the women by whom they were accompanitd, that some navigators have been led to imagine the proportion between the males and females to be very unequal in Eastei Island. But, visits to the interior parts of the islcj and to the houses, have afforded reason for think* ing, that the inequality cannot be, at all, such as ik was once suspected to be. They' have few or no domestic animals. But they cultivate vegetables for thtir means of subsistence, with sufllcient neat* ness and skill, although with no very laborious in- dustry. Their fields under cultivation, are regular oblong figures. Yams, potatoes, bananas, are the vegetables which they commonly cultivate. It is probable that they dig holes with wooden stake:^ and in these drop their seed-plants. 'I'hey have no means of cooking their vegetable's with fire, for cat* ing, otherwise than by h eaiini hoh e in the « utli j into which they then put their yams or potatoes } cgveriijg them with hot earth or stones, and.kcep# 8* LA PEYRO use's VOYAGE '4 ingtlicm in t'lls state, till they arc suHlclently roast- ed, to be fit for being eiiten. One of their houses, measured by M. de la Peyrouse, was found to be In the form of a canoe reversed: 310 ft- et in lenglh ; 10 feet broad j and, at the middle, 10 feet in heij];ht. buch a house as this, may possi- bly form, with the addition of one or two smaller ones, even a whole village. Pillars of lava, cut out in a manner sutlicicr.tly ingenious and artificial, 18 inches in thickness, and of a due height, form the sides of these hou es, and support the roof. Be- tween these pilars (t rains. Holts bored in the pillars receive the ends of wooden poles, with which an arched roof is form. edi Ove'' these poles is another thatching of Teeds. b mie of their houats are sul)tcrrancan, and of the same t'orm. They make cloth of the bark of the mulberry. tree. Jiut the drought seems to liavt giratly iniurcd thrir planttitlons of these trees, buch a--' stll remuln, ,Tre surrounded with fences, and do not rise Above 3 feet in heiglit. 'J'hey know not kO firm wells and reservoirs, lo supply the natural se.ucity of fresh. water undtr which they juflcr. Lut ihey have been even seen to drink the sen-water like the albawrosses, in a manner which seems to say, that necessity and Iribit can accustom mnn to every tlilnv. T! cir canoes arc fou.fcd of very narrow pUiiks, wliich arc only four or five feet in lenglh. For want of wood, they art, at pre- sent, not numerous, and must probably become still fewer. But they swim wi;h wonJcrful tticrgth W «>(i 3 I 4 ROt'ND THE WORLD. 3^ ,5* i '.nd (.lexteiity, even in tlie most tempestuous slate of the sens. 'I'licy nill thus ^o, even to th(^ klistanre of two Icatrucs from the shore, and will, In frolic, chuse those very places where the suif is seen tu Srcak witii tiit; j^rcatest fury. Beside their po- tatoes, yam<, and banatMs, ilicy have like\viM'j sui^ar- caueSj and a small grape-like fruit that grows upon the rocks on th.e sea shore. 'I'hey cultivate al o the garden iiijdit-shadc, for some culinary purp(;5c, 110 doubt. '1 he island exhibits some remains of liu« man works, which seem to bespeak, it to have been oiice inhabited l)y a numerous population, a-vi those more caj)able of magnliicent designs tha the pre- bcnt race. 'lerraces arc here and then* raised in a manner sufliciently artificial. On ihcsc terraces stand some gigantic busts of human figurr.s, the mo- numents of ancestors, or the statu'-s of fancied godi, '(he largest of these rude busts, being measured by the l'>cn«h n ivigators, was found to be 14 feet (t inches in height, 7 feet 6 luchcs in breadth across the shoulders, 3 feet in thickness round the belly, 6 feet br^ad and 5 feet thi;-k, at the base. There is room to conjecture, that, in mo-e ancient times, this isle %vas covered with wood j vo.u, in conse' He .1' cli »' m '^^ ROUND THE WORLD. 3S ermltted to conjecture; the subtcr. similar, in issal stahics it places ill Mve re: "iv. (^f of col ni' that remote ied Hindoo ital world ^ the arts, i, auiJ .11 splay, have not more e accidents ancient as er into in- voluntary ic cxtrcm'' Does not isles inter- iiiive re- cast ? Is cant^ the South A- bpaniards, not natu- fortunat.:, ter Jiland he arts of I* their native country, in all that perfection in winch it thev were there practised . The Enj^lish colony I* at Botany Bay, the Spanish inhabitants of Chili, •f' the Russians in Kamtschatka, the eternal neccssi- *' ties of the nature and circumstances of man, suf- V ficiently demonstrate the possibility of sue 1 a de- • i' cline and drpradation of tiie arts in their trans- y* mission from one country to another. 'I'o the f" existence of men in a savage state, it is not neces- *' sarv that the fiist parent; of the race should have *' been savages. The accider.ts under which succes- *' ^ive generaiioi^s m»t have been diffused over the •' e irth, were sullicient to produce any given Imper- f" fecti^Mi of knowledge and art, even by no indirect ** dcrivr.ion from any given excellence of them.'" ;'rhe-e colossal statues can h ive been intended ouly ,Jns the imaq-cs of fancied divijiiiies, or as m Jtuimcn- ^t.d st itues of the dead. Jn the imooveris led con- itl;''fn and '.he declining intelligence of the nresent ^idi.ih't.mts of I'l.i'.tt'r isl.jiid. they are content with She erection of small pyramidal hea;)s of stone over he graves of the dece.ised. These pyraiidds are nliite-washtd at the upper ixtremitv, and ';ippea»" to [serve fir the same uses as the ancient terraces and [colossal images. Such petty monuments require not to llieir erection, n»orc than 0110 hour's work l)y a a sinde man. Wiilif the French voya-'' rs walked pith some of the natives amon'j; their tombs, one of the latter, stretching himself at length upon the h^round. nnl, in tius pasture, r.d^ini; his hands to- wards tlie sky, thus endeavoured to indicate, v% the w leuclHUcn utlcr, :f of the existence of the 36 LA PEYROUSt^S VOY A O E souls of the departed after ^-^eath, and of their exalta- tion to a state of superiur blessedness above. In their intercourse with their French visitors, these islanders disco ;red a deceit incomparably artful, and an incorrigible propensity to theft. At the mo- ments at which they were receiving the presents of the French, and wore the air of being the most kindly interested in their attentions, at thos" very moments were they always the most certainly con- triving or perpetrating sonic theft. 1 hey offered their women for prostitution, in a manner which shewed that they were aware of the value of chas- tity as a virtue, and were basely willing to barter it for gain. They even offered for prostitution young girls, under the age of puberty, wliose cries shewed their own reluctance, and whom the French, with generous delicacy, spared from the hoiror of viola- tion. On this isle, and among these peiple, the French landed, on the 9th of April In the year 1781', A company of 400 or 5C0 islanders received them oft the sliore with eager joy. Some wore pieces of white or yellow stuff*, ethers vvcrc naked: many were tattooed and painted / ith red colours on the face. 'I'lic first care of the .strangers, was, to form an inclosure, from which a circular line of armed soldicrj exclude d the access (^f the natives. Pre- sents, beneficently drstinrd tf) gratit'y the desires of these rude people, and to enrich the l)ai ren« sf of their isle, were then brought on shore. INIeanwliilc, the numbers of the surrounding natives cont'nually cn- trcnscd. Forbidden to fire upon ihcm, the soldiers \ ROUND THE WORLD. 37 found it extremely difllcult to keep them at a due distance with the butt ends of their muskets. In- numerable little artifices were put in practice by the Indians, in order to deceive the attention of their visitois, while they accomplished their thefts with a dexterity worthy of the most notori;)L:s thief that c« vcr prowled in Paris or London. When the women solicited the embraces of the French, the men, i n concert, seize dtl lose moments, to ro b th em ftl; ei: )ome, wno ^vcre suppose hats and handkerchiefs. to possess the authority of chiefs, while ihcy shew- ed a readiness to pursue the thieves, and to recover the articles stolen, were soon pticclved to pursue them only that they might favour their escape. The voyagers were not to remain for more than lo hours on tlie island. Messts dc la Pcyrouse and de Lan- j[;lc, therefore, committed the clinrjre oi the tent, the li'oods. and the srll(»rs and soldier^ on shore, t Ko () M. de'Escures, first ]ieutcn.u>t in La Boussole ; ursJ themselves proceeded on excursions thr()u;;h the Isle, One p.uty, under th.e command of M. de Lan^le, were to penetrate as far as possible into the interior piirts, to sow the seeds of vegctablcsi, and to examine thp soil, plnnts, population, &c.— while another, at tlic head of wl.ich was "M. de la Pcyrourc, went to visit the monuments, terraces, plantations, and hou. "ics, within a semicircular space of the radius of a league, round the central point at which the tent was fixed. The results of their observations have been detailed in the prccedinqj parap;raph. At one nVlock in the afternoon, M. de la Pcyrouse return- •J to the tent, I\Liuy thefts hud been committetl 1) 3« LA PEYROUSE'S voyage" in his absence. He Mmself was robbed of his hat, hy an Indian who had assisted him in coming down from a terrace. He made a collection of specimens of the different lavas, the only sorts of stones in the isle. M. de Langle likewise returned soon after. He had wandered far into the interior parts of the isle J had visited the volcanic crater ; had passed near several villages •, had admired the cultivation of the fields j had sown seeds of the orange, the leriion, and the cotton-tree, cf maize, and other species of l)lants, such as seeric' likely to thrive In the soil and climate of this Isle. The natives were sufH- ciently sagacious to comprehend the intention with which these le till the d;»y fonowinj>. 'I'lic nii;ht was ahno-^t unalteral>ly cahn. At day-break, on the foUowini; morning, they i»i)Ui;lit new anclio- lagc in a very deep bay, N. \V. fioni their foinicv station. J'ut this proved little better than the for- mer. 'J'he Island of Movvee is situate neatly In 2 " N, L;\t. in 155" ^^ • Lo'V'^ l^s appearance is dci'^ht- ful. It projects into the channel in the direction of S. W. by VV. Mills tower up to a considerable c- levation in the interior area of the i>lc. A narrow ,slantin^ pliin, scarcely half a league In breadth, sur- rounils the bases ot these iiilK •, and descentis to t'le. se;: -beach. From tlic hei.'hts copious waters arc seen, nhTH)st every where, to descend in streams, of which the course presents a variety (d cascades ; and, attev ■watering liie numerous plarlutions of the natives, to fall gently iiuo the sea. Mie hills are clothed with a rich ami lively veidiae. Uanana tiecs, in great iiumbcrv, suirouml the habitations: and so abun- dant is th.e population, that a sp;ico of three or four leagues may be ttikcn, at a first view, for one con- tinued village, huch is the first aspect of this i'^le, to navigators a,.proaching at some small I'istance. Nearer, the groupcs bc^nn to be broken and dl^icvs- ROUND THE WORLD. 43 nl ; anil ol>j(.'('.ts unpk'asiii^ or uninteresting arc in- Icrmin^lctl with those uliiol), more remotely seem, picscutcd but one assemblage of tlie beautiful and tlu: strikinj^ly picturesque. '1 he soil of the isle is wliolly formed of lava and other volcanic matters i comminutedor decomposed. Ilo^rs, bananas, pijtatoes, yte the principal ol'jects wliith the husbandry of the natives cultivate;) for their subsistence. Of the bark of the paper-mulberry ticc, they manufacture lar^e (jiuintities of clotli. Ihry cover the lloors of their ;i ronsiilerably iiij^enious texture. hous th cs with ma Its of J. ar^e ca lahasl jes, lun ted I )y means o fa^l ue capa blc cf rcsi.'iting moisture, varnished, moulded into various forms, and ornamented with fi^jures wliich are sketcli- cd upon them in black, form one of the most elegant and commodious articles of this jicoplc^ kitchen u- ter.slls. 'I he houses are low straw-built huts, not unlike to tliose of our poorest peasants ; the roof nearly in the form of an isosceles lrian;^de-, the door, at the ^abic end, not more than three feet and an ntr h* h;ilf in heijdtt •, acccssil)le oidy to a person stoopi and fastened but by a sin^de latch. When the tor- rents from the mountains fail, brackish water from .shallow wells is the only resource of the iniiabitants of Mowee for iltink. llen^, as in the other islands of the bouth Sea, the delicate saiiclity of female clia tity appears to be unknown and unvalued. J;ut the female form is here invested with few of the glares or elci;ancies, even of rude fava^^e beauty ; liud the venereal disease, however introduced, has nude rava;;cs the most tcrtible and the most univer- sal. The people of Mo wee, with those of the olhev r 44 LA PF.YROUSE's voyage Sandwichlsles, have been accused of thr 'lorrid prac- tice of oftVrin^ human saciihces, to piopitlate their deities, and of delighting themselves occasionally to feast on limbs which were once warm with hu- man life. 'Ihe English navigators appear to have c- stabliihed this fact, which it is so painful to believe, upon evidence too strong to be resisted. La Pey- rouse, with a gentleness and Irnicnitv, which would gladly vindicate human naluie Irom the charge of the most savage crime by which it can be '1-gradcd, lias endeavoured too ineffectually to convince us that cannibalism is here unknown. From the kindnesr. of those Knroj)eans, by whom they have been, at different times, visitcil, these isles have derived sup- plits of our mosr. valuable domestic animals j bulls, coKs, goats, ewes and rams. Trees trom many dif- ferent coun'vicr. have been litre planted j and the serds of tiie mr)st useful vcgc'iiibles sown. Iron. ;tnd the most useful implcmetJts if indu>try, have been introduced. A subordination subsists, by wLich the chiefs and priests c.i)nv an absolute power. The canoes framed w'tli oiitntrtrerx ; each, in the common dize, aboiit i.\ icct in Inigth, i foot broad, i foot dc« p \ capable of lioli.ing from three to five men \ yet not e.X'C ding 50 or 6d pounds in weight j and employed 111 courses of :.avigntiun to the extent even of 60 leagues *, display very extraordinary in- genuity, both ill their uses and strucVure, Yet the arts, in general, arc here in a fctate lower than that in wliich they appv.ir iu Knstcr Islni'.d ; and » long time must, in nil piubabllity, elapse, before the sciences, the rectitude uf mui \ intelligence, tho me ^^\^ bai in 11 CO. I'jaj pre re rv ROUND THE WORLD, 45 •nt heneficinl c'vil policy, and that happy impiove- meiit of the agricultural and the mechanic arts,— [1 which (li'tingiiish civibzed mar.kind from savages and barbarians,— c.in be established amoni^ tiie native inhabitant> of Movvce or Ovvhyhcc. in th. ir inter- co-irse with the French, these people sliowed an un- t-Mzing, u prov jking gentleness, an honesty little prune to theft, a sagtcious caution, and yet a fair- nc'S in commeici.^l dealing, by which they were ve- ry advantag 'ously dlstmgaijiicd trom ♦he inluuitanrs of Easter ibland. I hey were, in particular, careful, in the sale of their hors and fruits, not to sp )il the market by ofTer'ng larg*; qu ntities, at once, to the purchisers, but to produce hog after hog, and one small qiiantity of bananas a;.d potatoes slowly after another, that the eagerness of the buyers, anJ, by conse(iucnce, tlie prices, raight still be kept up. It was on the 22d of Mav 756. that our voyagers la'ided on this isle. I'hey happened to come on shore in a place towards which none of th< se streams of water dcscende»l, which they had seen at a dis- tance. 'I heir landing was elTected in tour boats | in the two foremost of whicli were 20 arncd soldiers unJer the command of Lieutenant de Wieirevcrt^ ^hile [VI. de Lan;.^le, with sucii oiliccrs and pasNcn* gers HI were not by duly det.iir.cd on buatd, went in tiie other two. An hundred and twenty persuiis, men nit 1 women, awaited their approach ou the shorf. i'he first ore of the i'lcncu, afvcr landing, wa., to dijposu the 9oldicr5, with t>ayoneiS fixed, u- rjund n upace whicli tlicy reserved for tlitinsclvcs, secluding Itom it all access of the iiutians. At this 4(5 LA p i; Y R o II s r \s V o V A c n I llicse {'cntlc people tcstllifd neither fear, provoca- tion, nor surprl/.c. Two Indians, Avho appeared to liave an authority over the rest, addnsNcd them in j^ravc spcoclus ot sduic Icni^tli, and ofl'crcd each :i present nf a ho\r. 'Vhc presents were acccpteil j and in return, nied.ils, li;'tchets, and other pieces of iron, to tlictn inestiniaidy pieclous, Avcre liberally bestow- ed. 'I'he ^vonien in» h; otter o 1V< )f th Rir lavouiN ill %vhioh, howeViT, tlnMc wws but little alluri'inent. Having fust visited tlio vllla^;e, M. dc la l\yrouse, ^vith the rcntlemen acconii)anvin': him, then made nn excursion farther into the isle, under the protec- tion of a Serjeant's i^nard of soldiers. The re>ult of their ol>scrvati()ns has been exhibited in the par:*- pr.iph imnuiliately forerointj. 'I'hey Itad left thtlr iliips at 8 o'clock in tlu; morniiiji; j at ii in the forc- iiov)n tlicy re embarked in tluir boats -, at noon ihcy arrived nrain oji board the shipf. Dniiiiij their ab- sence, a ciii« fi.dn, of considcr.tblc consif|uencc, liail visited tlie ships ; and had sold to those on hoard, :i cloak and helmet elei;anily oinanientcd with red fea- thers, with various at if ih ticl .1 es o f )rovjsiotj, an f ih d oth ^hu•d( er S specuncns ot llic itnpUments ot these j.slaridcr<. troni; j^.des nf)\v blew (m\ them from the southeast. Both the frl^y.ites wetc forced to dra^ their anchors ) nnd it was some time before they could even hoist thtlr boats on bo.ml. At s in the afternoon, they hud wci;,died up tlieir anchors. I'ill H o'clock, the breciei blew sn faintly, that their profrtesn wan not more than half » lea ;ue. 1 he wind at ln.it settled in the N. E, Ihc fri^;atc« then took their course to ROUND THE WORLD. 47 the westward ; and passed in the middle between the isles of Tamoorowa and Ranai. At day-break, they stretclied towards the S. W. extremity of the Islird of MoROTOj. They entered the open sea by thai channel which d'vldcs Morot'-j fiom Wohaoo; On the 1st of June, at 6 oVlock in the evening, they had left all these isles behind them. That shoal of bonetas which had followed them for 1500 leajTues, from the vicinity of Kaster Island as far a? these Sandwich isles, now disappeared. CHAP. 4S I A FEYROUJIK's VPYACi: CHAITIK lOUK I H J^ARRATIVK «>|- TIIK VOY AtJlv 1(IN II NKKP, IKOMTIU: I. «il \vuv. .7^56, Ti) Till'. iUi;iNNiNt; or aim^iist : iNil.t niNv. THK ClU'RSK IROM TIIK SANDWICH ISIKS TO roRT PI FRANCOIS, WITH ITS TRANSACTIONS, DISCOVFR IFS, AN J MISrORTDNPS. I Oi!R voyngrrs now tlircctcd tlicir course nortliwards. W'.int of water ;iiul olhcr Miit:il)Ic i)r(ivisions, soon ohli^cJ llum to Lill and cure uilh suit llic lu)^'. uliich tlicy h.iil procurcil fioni IMowci*. ( )n tlic 6tli of* )unc, when tlu-y li;ul arrivcil in the 30" of N. Liit, the winds shillcd from K. to S. IC. The iiki' s now assumed a dull, wliitish aspect Jta|ipcnr- cd tliat the frigates had passed the sphere id liu- tnii/c winds, and that weutlier levs favouiahle than they had liiiiierto cnjoynl, was now to he expected. Ij On the ytli of June, while they sailed in 34" N. J^at they l)e);an to be sunounded with fo_i(s. lill the I4tii of tlie same montli, wlun t4»cy had 1 cach- ed the 4i"of N. l-at. tliesc fo^s continued to wh- ite uie tiic h un/.on. ri )c incess WW d r./viini; rami a- larmed M. de In Peyrousc fvir the health of t!»e s .i- lors. lie therefore ordered sloves ^\Iili burnln^r coals, to be phiced under the half-deck and between tlie decks i ^avc out to every sailor and soldier, :i p.iir of boots y and rc>toicd the llanncl under-vests ROUND THK W()Kt, 1). 49 and (Irawcn, uIimIi lie li;td ni;Klc liI- people by a>iJe, find had kept in reserve, evci since tliey left the se.is ;idjacrr.t to Cape Morn. Upon llic jiuhnnent of llic ,sur|Mon, lliert; wns likewise secret- ly niii'ided uitli the ^rog wliicli the crc^vs had at brenkHist, n slight infusion of Peruvian bnrk, ;ui;ipt- f«l lo produce cllects < onsiderahly snhit.iry, without, sensibly alVec.tin^ the t;istc of th«: H<|Uor. IIk hap- piest success, fortunately, attended the use of these precautions. I'hc lorniation of a corn-mill was a- nofher thinij of import int utility, which, about this time, t',ave employment to some o( the voyagers. In their stores, tiny hal taken on board, instead of flour and l)iscuil, merely cm dried in the kiln. To convert this into meal, thi y possessed only instru- ments like the oiu rns of the hcnli^h 'liidilands. \\ ith these, only a very Hmall t wi:hin si'dit of laiul. All ivus here dcsolatijn ROUND THE WORLD. 51 nnd barrenness, without ttec;, without verdure, ex- hibiting nouirht but huge and endless piles of snow. From the heiglit of the mountains, the hind appear- ed to descend towards the sea. The waves broke at the shore, a-^ainst a perpendicular ledge of black rocks, the front elevation of whic!i mi,i;ht l^e about 150 or 200 fathoms. Such was the appearance of the coast seen from a distance. Approaciing near- er, our voyagers perceived island- like hills over- spread with trees, rising into view in front of tho higher ground, which alone they had, at first, ob- served. The wind, however, sadde-ilv chanirinf: from an eastern to a southern direction, the sky be- coming dark arid black on that quarter of the horl- 'zon : and they were thus prevented from taking that near and distinct survey, which they wished, of this purt of the coast. At noon, from an observation, and from their time keepers, they found themsolvi;s to be in 59° and 21' N. Lat. and in 1,} \^ 73' VV. Lon. The land was hidden by a thick fog, during the whole of the 2° 2C' N. Lat. in 142° 2' W. Long, in the course ot 24 hours their progress had been de- flected ?4 mills to the eastward. Even amid the fogs, they couLl at intervals perceive the low-lands of the coast, from wh'Ji they had never been far- ther tlian 4 leagues distant. Their soundings were now re>',ularly from 60 to 70 fathoms, with a mud- dy bottom. They supposed themselves to be but 5 or 6 leacjues ea^.twaid from the Behrings Bay of Conk. They set their sails for the land \ and ap- proached it under a very light breeze from \V. S. W. A bay seemed to open before them , but wlieti they came nearer, they could see, that what they had supposed a bay, was nothing but the abrupt meeting of high with low lands at the coast. They cast an- chor where there was ;o fathoms depth of water, with a muddy ground. The bu.its of the two frl- ?^alc5>, under the command of Messrs de Clonard ajul Alarcliuinvillc, were sent out to explore the coast. They found, at the mouth of a great river discharg- ing itself into the sea, by two not inconsiderable channels, a sandy bank, which lose to a level with the water. For five or six hours, they sought for an entrance into these ch^mntls. But, b>)th were shuL up by the sandy bars, against which the sea broke ivlth such force, that it w.is impossible for the boats to approach them. Beyond tlie sand-banks, indeed, witliin the channels, they could perceive smooth wa- ter in a bason of two leagues in length, and seven leagues in breadth. Smoke, bespeaking the coun- try to be inhabited, was also seen on the shore. ROUND THE WORLD. ss There can be no doubt, but that which appeared to the French voyagers to be the mouth of a great ri- ver, is the Behring's Bay of Cook. La Peyrouse rave it the name of Beiiring's River. It is not im- possible, but that, since the French voynger ap- proached nearer to the land than the Fnglish, the former may be more correct, in afhrming the exis- tence of the mouth i)f a river here, than is the lat- ter, when he speaks merely of a bay. From this scene, the two frigates sailed along the land at two or tlnee leagues distance from it j and under a light brtc/.e from the W. With the assistance of their perspective glasses they could see people on the shore. Bat the sea w.is reverberated from the btach in those trenicnduous billows to wliirh the sailors gave the name of hreahers ; and of which the overwhelming fury rendeied all landing in these scenes utterly impossible. At noon, on the ad of July, in 5S° ^d' N. Lat. in 14'.^ 3,i' W. Long, they fuand themselves opposite to IVTount FArRwcAruER, at two leagues distance from the land. Ihey dis- covered, at 2 o'clock in the afternoon of the same day, at a place somewhat eastward from Caie Fair- weather, a retrocession of the coast, n'hich was gra- dually perceived to retire inwnrds, so as to form a fviie bay. Towards that bay they immediately di- rected their course. Tliree boats were dispatched to examine it. A reef of rocks, about 3CD toises in length, with a sulTiciently accessible opening at (MIC end, contiguous to a point of the continent, was seen to protect this bay from the tumultuous blllow- ings of the waves of the open sea beyond. Within 56 LA P E Y R O U S E S VOYAGE W p It. H Til', this reef of rocks, the waters were calm and smooth. Of the inlet at its one end, the depth was found to be, in the middle, 7 or 8 fathoms; at the distance of 20 toists from either side, 5 fathoms. The depth within the bav was 10 or 12 fathoms, with a safe bottom. Sail^fied of these ;,articulars, by the infor- mation of the officers who had gone in the boats, INI. de la Peyrouse resolved to conduct the frigates into the bason. At 7 oViock in the evening, they were before the inlet j but the winds blew faintly, and the tide was then ebbing with an i.-npetuosity of cur- rent, in cpposiiion to \\hlch the ships were not able to advance. Dining the night, they waited near •vvithcut casting anchor. In the morning, new ob- servations, made by the officers of L'Astrolabc, en- cournwed them all to renew their attempts to enter. After some difficulties, the flowing tide carried both the frigatf-'s into the bay i forcing them into a posi- tion within half a pistol shot of rocks, on which al- most the r.nmlltst movement farther would have shattered them In pieces. They both cast anchor at half a cable's length from the shore '. and in three fathoms and an half water, with a rocky bottom. Once or twice La lioubsole slightly touched the , rocks with her keel ; fortunately, however, without buffering the smallest damage. During 30 years experience In navigation, M. de la Peyrouse iiad ne- ver seen two ships so near to being lost, and yet c- scaping from the danger. But it was not itnmedi- ately possible to move from their present position to saf;.r anchoiing ground, ROUND THE WORLD, 57 After a short time, an excellent bed of sand was found at four cables length of distance from their first situation, with lo fathoms of water over it : at lid b( farth a lartlier distance into the bay, no bottom could te found, even at 60 fathoms except at half a cable''s leng;th from the shore, where was a muddy bottom under 30 fathoms water. At the bottom of the bay >vas discovered an island, near which ihere was an- chorage in iO fathoms depth of water, with a mLid- (ly bottom. On that isle, abundance of wood ]ay ready cut and carele-sly scattered along the ground. Stri-ams of excellent water were precipitated in ca- taracts from the mountains. Be\ond the isle, the sea was covered with blocks of ice j and the entrarr- ces of two extensive clvmnels were discovered at a distance. At 4 o'clock in the afterr^on, the fri- gate, La Roussole, was warped in upon the above mentioned bed of sand. J^'Astrolabe, witli better success, gained at once the anchorage adjacent to tlie isle. On tlie day following, a light breeze from the S. E. enabled La Boussole, v/ith the assistance of the boats, to join her. To the whole bay, a bay of which these navigators weie the first discoverers, Pvl. de la Peyrouse gave the name of Port de Fran- cois. On the continent adjacent to P^rt de Francois, inhabit some savage tribes, with whose existence and manners our voyagers had now an opportuni- ty of becoming acquainted : Tliey appeared to wor- ship the Sun. With the speeches, in their mo,>t so- lemn transactions, was, occasionally, intermjnglcd a plaintive music, not unlike to the Pi;ilm ti'.nefc of .S3 LA P C Y R O U S E S V O Y A G L* pi 115 J I tlic Cl'tlsllan worbhi;^ j or to those sweet melan- choly ail*"., Tvhich arc understood to constitute the bftier part of the n:)tlve music of \ht Scots. Dan- tinr; to tlie «ounilsoftheir own voiceslikewisc accom- panlts some of their most solemn transactions. 'I'hey sui-isist partly by Hshin*;. in y.wt by hunting. '1 hey aie acfiuuinted with the use of iron ; and have, by vaiious means, either in direct intercourse nith Eu- ropeans, or l)y transmission throu;;h intci mediate hands, acquired considc: ible quxntltics of it. That amphi!)ious animal, tlic sea^otler, is tlic constant ob- ject of their lumling pursuit. It rccel"es from them the name o^ fleeter, iis weight, at its full growth, may be about 70 pounds, its skin furnishes a very valuable fur. These savages were understood by tlieic French visitors, to have tiicir habitations at some distance on the continent, yet often to resort to the isle nigh which the fri^^iitcs lay at anchor. A tomb, which some rrcnchmcn had an opportunity of cxamininjf, showed tlicse Americans to have the custom of burninji; the bodies of their dead. The liead nlune is p.tscrved unburnt, and ca. chilly wrap- ped up in a numb.r of skins. For the monument, n small wooden chamber is vlc\.iltd on four pole^. '1 he head with th: u»hcs Hre deposited in a coiFm, iir;d placed within thtit chamber. The canucs, in which llicsc lu'iians adventure upon the sea, arc lormttl c:u li <>f the trunk of u tree, hollowed, raised at the sides by planks wiiich arc lewrd to its bot- tom, hainjr, like oar wfoat-*, linl'trx and nv;/rj", well exccutid in the wood>vork, and tovertU over with s"al skins, St wed together with aJrirable closcnes* ;^ii(l for ;.blv s.dni thcii an R O u S' rj T H L W R I. I>. i9 •And nicety. In winter, >v1ulc tliey trusr to the cliace tor the means of subNlstenci', lliev arc ofte n unavoi 1. ;ibly liable to perish liy famine. In si'mincr, ihi* s.ilmons cf the rivers form th.e princiiial article of ens- niHl m their food : and these they t^kc with an ;m abundance which ni.ikes it i)r)ssi')!c lov U\cm to he idle and gluttono'is to any (lf<:',n.'e they please. G imin;^ is the fic'inont amusement of their indo- lence ; and they rui^ into all its worst mischiefs, with most turious and must pers'jvcring aulour ot passion, 'i'o the French strani^crs, they displayed their moral principles an id feel iM''< ill a 11 li i.hockin;.;ly un.imi- able. riiey beheld distress wiihout sympathy j they robbtd their benevolenr visitants, the mo*^t readily, at those very moments, \'hcn thcs.* were caressing 1. :' .uid loading vvi'h presents tliemse!ves and their c (hen. One or two of the Fr.-nchmoii could at no time stroll to any vn\all distance on the coast, wi'lj- oiit being liable to be surronn.ifd, and forcibly dr.- privcd of every thing valuilile about them, by these rapacious mtives. A village of thice or f »ur wood- < n :'.h':ds was observed by our voyager* near the shore. 'I'hese hhcds were, ewch, 25 feet in leu ;t!i, and I c in luradth ; c)veied only on that »idc which was t)ie munr cxnosrd to the storms wiili planks oi* willj the b.u-k of trees ; >ind bavin. ; in th? mi Idle 1 fire, unnuul wliich were '^ung lalin ms tiud otiier fislirs to be dried in t'r.e smok-r. l'"...ch «hc I n;jppHr- cl to lol^e ih >r A^a pc <»oi.^, On one siJcsU their worn n and chlhlren •, 01 the oilur were the men. Evich *hf d seemed vt bj i'.w »c it nf a d'»;inct s-^cif - ty. Each hai Us o^^o i t.io- .11 J iu own clii«f. )0 LA r E Y R O L' S E S \' O Y A G E i r* M Tlic movements and design? of the company in every different shed seemed to be entirely incepcndt-nt of the inhabitants of the others. Circnmst^nccs ap- peared to indicate, that the residence of tliese A- merirans, upon this hay, was but occasional and tcnipor.iry. Tiiey pcriiaps pass the summer here for fish my .H > but in tliC winter retire in lo tV le interior country to pursue the chace. Within, and around their dwellings, the raost dis^r^l^ting nastincss pre- vailed, i hey prepare their fishes for food, in wood- en vessels, which, tiiough used alike for kettle, dish, «nd )late, are never wasl)cd. lieing without pots of cither iron or that /<,/»/r o/Zarn which has been found in use anionome of the N. K. l)arts of the American continent they have no menus to make water boil, save by immetsin^; into it stones, which they luive made red-hot in tiie fiie. 'I'iieii method of roasting nea-ly resembles that wliich is practised by soUiitrs in a cam|). In summer they seek their food like the seals, wandering from bay to biy. In wiriti-i tlicy penctr. le into the interior country, and liunt the beaver and other animals. From the teiiderncss of the soles of llirlr feet, uliich, though al\savs linked, are never cillous, it sliould fcccm i)i«t tijev travel little, except in canoes or with t>iu)\v rackets. 1 heir onlv domestic animal is the do;^, of H specie*, wild, carnivorous, and d in- ge^o!l^ ', in form nt.d ^ue not unlike to the com- mon Sihipherd's dog, rarely b.irkiMg, but emitting ii hiss similar to that of tiic jickall of Btngnl. I'he dress of these people is simple, ye* in some particu ):kn oddly fant i^tic. Tlu- head is ui>u.illy covered TkOCND THE V.'OKLD. 6i lals. lich, ;il U il (H- oni- icu :rcd Tvhh a small hat of straw, very neatly ]il<:ited. Or, in some iast.mces two horned bonn^tts of envies fta- thers, or even the whole head of a be ir, having a wooden scull-cap fixed to it, aj^p^ar instead of the j.tiaw-hat. Some were seen to wear a sort of robe of ottci's skin, or of the tanned skin of the elk, bor- dered with a jingling fiinjre of doers hooves and the beaks of birds. The cartillagts of the tars and the nose arc plci ' ' to receive dlffc'reiit ornaments. On their breasts nnns they make scars with a sharp ed'jred instrument, which they are accustomed to whet on their teeth. With a jtiece of sandstone, >vroii^ht into the firm of a tongue, they file down their teeth to the j^um?. Ochre, soot, ;:nd plum- bago, minjjkd with lish («il, arc empbiyed by them in piiinrin^ tri^htfuUy the f.ice and the other parts of the body. Dressed in wliat they themselves ac- count the manner the most sumptuous and tlei;nnt, ihty wear the hair tlowitii> at fi.ll Icn '.th, entwined v.ith the down of sea-fowls, and plcntltully powclcrcvi. .'ionie few instances of tatooin|; on t)»e ain)s, were ob- »»tived nmon;^ the women. Vounf^ piil'. uhohave not yet attained the a^e uf puberty, univcrsnily pierce the underlip, aad fix in It a needle, as a coiutant orna- r.ifnt. When tlicy l\avc advanced bevond the age of puberty, the oiifice which \r.ts formed by the rnedlci \% cnUr/^ed, by klittln); the lower lip at tlie lOOt of the Runis, for the whole \\ideness of the mouth, into thin is now inserted a s')it of woodea bowl witliout I'undks, very niec'y formul, and dei- tined to be wotn us n per) etuul ornament, uhith they will, it nu tiiue, ivcn ioi u n.oiucut, lay ii:.ide, F Cl LA P E Y R f ) U S E ' S VOYAGE ' III ,1l '3 \ without extreme confusion and reluctance. The general dress of these women is m^re corcless and filthy than that of tlie men. Their countenances, naturally wild and harsh, are in< pressibly disfitu;- ed by the laceration of the under lip. Their whole persons appeared to the Frencli strangers, to he the most squalid and disgusting upon earth. Yet, «- mong tlie sailors there were not wanting some who were so brutally kiscivious as to solicit their favours. They at first showed somewhat of coy reluctance, and hinted their fears of the jealousy of their men. Presents overcame this reluctance \ and they then chose rnther to prostitute themselves on tiie oncn sliore, in the face of the sun, than to retire under tlie more modest concealment of the woods. It is not to be dissomhled, tlial Dixon, the l''ngllsh voy- ager, who visited this coast, soon after I\l. de la Pcyrouse, has ^iven a less disgusting picture of these females. He says, that when one of tlicm was per- suaded to wash herself clean, her form and coun- tenance, but for the disfigurement of tlie under lip, Hupeared mueh to resemble a handsome English milkm.iid. In st:it»ire, these eoplc weie perceiv- ed to dilVcr little from their French visitors. The colour of thtir .skin \s «i (huk brown, not fiom the hirth, but in conscfjuencc of their continual ex- posure lo the sooty nnstincss of their houve«!^ and to the nlr and r..ins in the open a'mosphtrc. 1 heir frame is feeble •, and the weakest oi th.t Freoth sal- Ion would have been more thim n ni.iteh in wrist- ling for the stoutest of these Ameiicans. Symp- tom ; of the r.curvy wcic observed on iome of ihcru \ 1^1 If ROUND THE WORLD. 63 and the ol:lcst person ainont^ tliem was a woman who niii'ht be about 60 vears of a^e. 'I'hev li^h ihc li- vers, ehlier by setting up stakes across them •, and thus f.;rmirtjT a jort of cruives ; or else, \\lth lines, to wliicli a small fish is fastened as a bait, while a iar>;e seal's bladder, connected witli the li;ie, and ,'xvimniin^ on thf surface of tiie nater, indicates to ihe lishermHn t'r.e lirst U'.omcnt when any iish snutch- (s i»t llic bait below. These Americans of Port de Franij, lis, wie sLillcd to spin the hair of different a- nimals into a yarn, of which, with needles, they fa- ))ticatc a species of cloth, of a texture similar to that of the tapestry of Kurope. Of this cloth they form for th<*mselves cloaks ; and having contrived to in- termix in the f.ibric of the cloth, slender stripes of otter. skin, they thus make their cloatlis to resem- ble the finest silken shag of Kuropcan mmufacture. Their ha:s -ind baskets of reeds nre woven with ex- quisite skill. Tiie ornniiental d«sl;nis which they skctcS up»n these, fnx in no unpleasing taste. 'I hey forge iron *, thev f;ishion copper ; they fxpcut* to- lerable en«;ravings of mrn and other animals, in wood and stone. They make finelv polished orna- ments of the serpentine stone : They inlay boxes in a very tlcgmt manner, with mothtr of peail. A dagger; a wooden lance at one end, shirpcn? d and hardtMK'd in tlic fire, or perhaps pointed witii iron ; H bow and arrows, the latter tipped with coppt r , are their ordinary \seapors. There were observed a- mong their trinkets, pieces of yellow a.nbcr ; which rhey may possd)ly pick up from time ti* time, npaa their own coasts* Their canoc> appeared tu be in F a «+ I. A ? E y R 17 S E S V O Y A (5 E 5;cneral more thin 30 feet loni; ^ 4 feet br( avl ; 6' if.et deep •, and vere coveted witli seal- skins after the nnnner of tlie K«<|uimqi.ix. Their ;:;iniin!T m.\k.es them serious and nudancholy. It Is phiyed ^vltli 30 I ieccs of wo 'd ; each hivlnij, like our dice, diiUTcnt mark*:, and of these .^o piccts, they hide 7. Kvcry one of the persons entrnued in the g: me, then plays in his turn. lie whose guess co:nts nearest to the number upon the 7 pieces, is the ninncr of the stake. A hatchet, or a piece of iron. Is usually the siipulited prize. Their music is plaintive and melodious. 1 he sounds of their language are rough and harsh, cviiibltln.^ combinations of consonants to ^vhIch we should find it impossible to give utterance j. and excluding the sounds of some of tl;osc letters, uhich occur the most frequenily in the speech of ci- vilized Europe. Of the consonants, /',,/', .v, /, r/, />, V, / and the llcjuld (t.'/, could not be enunciated by them, otherwise th.u very imperfectly, and with ex- treme dllllculty. Their initial consonants are, /•, /, n, J", /.I. Noie of their words bt gin with r. Their termIn;ilIons are, almost always, either In vowels, or in the syllables on/s^ ou!(h. K is the favourite letter in their alphabet. They have interjections expres- sive of pleasure, arigvr, and aJuriration. They pos- S2SS hut few ab.tliiict term*. I 01 a- much as our voy- n/![crs coulJ obscivc, there »>eei:)ed to be a coiislder- jible atrn.ily ui sound between the language of the inhabitant* of Nootka, and that oi tliese people ot Poit dc Franc; .)Is. The following arc the principal numerical terms of this languigc : ROUND THE WORLD. «J One, Two, Three, Four, Five, Six, Seven, Keight, Nine, Ten, Kleven, Twelve, I'hirtcen, Fourteen, Fifteen, Sixteen, Seventeen, Ei,^htcen, Nineteen, Twenty, Tiiirty, Forty, Fifty, Sixty, Seventy, Eighty, Ninety, A hundred, ■s? Kei'rrk Thelrh Neisk Toalihoun Ke Use bine K/eitouchou Takatouchou Nftsliatuiichou Kouehok Tchinccate Kcirkrha keirrh Keirkhva thcivb Keii hrha rieisb Keirkrha taukhoun Keirkrha- kcitschme Keirkrha L/fiiouchou Keirkrha-taLatouchou Keirkrha nrt\kaiouchou Keirhrha'huuehoc Thcirha Ncirlrha Taakhounrba Kcit chinerha Klei ouch'iurha TukatouL hourha Nttd'aiouchrha Kiue':oirha Icbiiu'cnicrha Fj 66 LA PEYROUSk's voyage li Hi' i If The liarboiir or bay to wliich La Pcyroiise t^ave tlie name of Port de Francois, is situ;ne in 5S" 37' N. Lat. itt r ,(;" 50' N. Long. Under the full, and under the chan<,nnprmoon, the tide here rises 7-Kect on the shore. It is then hi^h water at 1 o'clock. At certain times, the current of the tide moves in with the force of the most rapid river. At other times, a boat may easily sail in direct opposition to it. There were observed on the land, liii:;h watermarks, at a height not lcs»i tlian 13 feet above the surface of the sea. Tlic climate of this coast was judged by M. de la. Pcyrouse to be far milder thnn thut of Lludson's Jlay in the same latitude. Vegetation is here ex- cecdin<^]y vigorous, fnr three or faur months annual- ly. I'ines were measured by our voyagers, of whicU the circumference was found to be jS feet, the height 14c feet. Almtvst all the pot-herhs of the mtadow-J iUid moutUains of I'rance appeared in the fields. A- mong these were, angtlicM, the buttercup, the vio- l«.t, ike. Celery, round- leaved sorrel, lupine, the wild pea, yarrow, and endive, wtre likewise fourd in great abuiidance. Gooseberries, raspb^-rries, and Ntrawbenics, ^vere plenteous in the woods. Alder trees, the pojdar, the sallow, the hornbeam, the Jwarf williAv, wltli ditlV-rCiit species of briars, were seen intermingled amot.g the stately pli.cs. iSIost of the plants appeared to be of species; which arc common in Europe. INI. de INLtitiiilere, in his botanical excu.siojs, met v.ilh only thrne plant 1 that he thought ticv. Trout and salmon ar.: prodi. j^iously abu.id mt in the rivers. Ling, thornb 'cks, pUices, Jldans^ and o-i/ii/afi..als ; .ere the different mi- nerals of which their collections exhibited speci- mens. No sooner had the two frigates been fixed at an- chor near to the isle, which was mentioned above 5 th; tie ha sai of no: ful wi an to ge: IS ROUND THE WORLD. 69 than the voyagers turned themselves to form a set- tlement on that isle, for the time of their stay in the harbour. J'hey picched tents for their smitlis and sail-makers j and took out the casks from the holds of the ships to bz there refitted. The Indians had none of ihtir ha!)itaticn3 on the Isle. Here, there- fure, it was juppor^ed that their thefts mi^ht be without quarrel or violence, av»)ided. Some fire- arms an-.l artillery were discharged ia their presence, to convince them, that, however lenient, the stran- gers were suiHcient.y powerful to repress and to pu- nish injury. Whatever might happen, it was deter- mined to employ no force against the natives j but, to excite the vij^Ilance of the crews, M. de la Pey- rouse settled, that the men who suffered a loss by the theft of the Indians, should be punished for that negligence, by which the theft had been allowed to take eiTcct. Bat the avidity and ingenuity of the natives, often defeated all these precautions. At one time, in particular, they landed Irt.mi their ca- noei 0:1 the isle, by nig'nt j stole through the woods, gliding like adders on their bellies, uttering not a whisper, scarcely stirring a Icafj made iheir way, unobserved, through h guaid of 12 soldiers into a tent, in which M- srs de Liuii!>ton and Darbaud, the omcera of tin. guard, i ly asleep j took away the Clothes of these t.- o gentkmen fiom under their piilovvi, without awakening ihtm ; and convened this booty, together with a musket mounted with silver, and a memorandum book of aslionumical ob- >«rvatio:'.s, olT in ptrftct ifcty, and unuetecttd. l he horil^ in the mean time, caiiied wood and wa- ^J ^> !^a^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // '"// ^^ c* ^ \# % 1.0 I.I Vi m 122 ^ u L25 K |J4 /. 7 /A Photo^Tdphic Sciences Coiporatio;i ■»3 WIST M. IN ITMIT V I4SI0 3-4)03 70 LA r E Y R U S E ■• S VOYAGE ter on board theshipy; ; and fiifferent workin'r pnr- ties were emiiloyed in the di1:j;ent perforrmrce of all the necessary Inbours. INTcssrs dc Monnprou anil F( riiizet, with ;in armed company of the sailors and soldiers, p,!- ccedcd in a boat to explore the bay. "^I'liev lot ,.■ d w'lli nwc :it the f^rand appenr- nncts wh'rh nature cxbi'iitrd lovvarcls its bottom. A b:is situation, M. Bou- tin endeavoured to stny his boat, by dropping the gr( f>neL It did i.ot fix on the bottom, but its cord being un^a^tened at the end wliich remained in tlie boat, it was instantly lost *, «nd by its loss the boat was happily delivered from a weight which mii'ht have loon after proved latally inconvenient. Ihc pinnace, in the mean time, was iuvolvcd amid the OnaLvis, She was drawn into the current. 'I'hosc in the lujig bvat quickly lost sight of her. 6hc was ROUND THE WORLD. 73 ■h.tt |)k1 he >nt 'ht. I'lic \he he [as overwhelmed amid tlie billows, nnd w^s with her crew utterly lost. Her fate had been perceived at a distance by IM. de Marchainville : and the crew of the boat of L*Astrulabe, hurrying into tlie midst of the danger, to aid their perishing comrades, were like them, unhappily swallowed up amidst the break- ers. Boutin, even after he saw himself surround- ed by dangers almost insurmountable, was still for some moments ready to rush in the long-boat to the assistance of his friends, at the risk of sharing their fate. But the sense of duty interposing, determin- ed him to mike ev( ry clfort in order to save ll.t; crew entrusted to his command. For this purpose, he made his sailors, in the interval of the hreakinj^ of the seas, to />//// flwv/v witli the oars to the s far- hoard. At 2\ minutes after seven, he was fortu- nately out of all danger. He now made the water to be ha/cd out of the boat •, and again turned him- self to discover whether his unfortunate ship. mates miglit not yet survive, and whetlier lie might not ytt carry them relief. 'I'o the southward, he could l)ercelve some seals nnd sea-weeds, the appearance of which gave him still lome faint hc^ies. At three quarters after 8 o'clock, the tide hud turned, and the I )rcakers had ceasec Ag. iin lie rencwc( I th< search ; but Mill without success. His crew were now cold, dicnchcd with water, hungry, and with- out provisiots. He had neither <^raf)nri nor sails for the managemrnt of the boat. He was therefore obliged to return into the bay. Some Indians, whom be perceived on the shore, expressed to him, by signal^ that they had seen the two boats perish. u LA PKVnOU.^F, S VOVAGE Still, however, he would not forego the hope, that he mic^ht perhaps find M. dc Marchainvlllc, with the boat of L'Astrolahe, to have returned to the ships. " Have you any new? of M. de Marchainville ?" was his first enquiry, the moment he arrived on board. ** No,'* was the answer j and it made his despair complete. The disconsolate horror with Tvhich the news of this misfortune was received on board the frigates, mny be easier conceived than ex- pressed. This was the first misfortune our voyagers ii id cncyntUered during their enterpriz*^. It depriv- ed them iA some of their most accomplished ofFicers and dearest companions. It had happened, after e- very possible precaution had been employed to avert It : For the soundings of the channel hnd been be- fore mule, and the force of the breaking billows, on dilVerent days, observed, with a care which m;ikes it improbable, that, but for an extraordinary nve// on this particular day, the danger which proved so fatal, could have been incurred. The Indians, in their canoes, soon visited the frigates, to give in- formation that they had seen tlie two boats perish, without being able to aiTord them assistance. The disconsolate strangers loaded their infoimers with presents, and gave them to understand that he who should have saved a single man, wouU have been thought worthy to be rewarded with all their wealth, JMessrs de J^anglc and Dc Clonard, attended by nil the otliccrs, and a number of other person', hasten- ed away to explore those parts of the coast to which it was not improbable that some parts of the wreck might perchance be driven. Their scnrch was vain. ROUND THE WORLD. 7S Tliey returned without liaving discovered either a single surviving man or any of the dead bodies. The Indlar', too, in ho^jcs of new presents, spread themselves round the bay, and made every possible rc.«s» G 2 II n. ^6 LA P E Y R O U S F ' S V (^ Y \ C, h (.If A i> r i: i< 11 1' iMf. .VARRATIVK OF THIC VOYAGK COVTINt'ItD, TROM TH K HR- (rlNNTNO «[■• AUGUST TO TIIK END OF b K I'T KMC KR, 1786 : PROGRK&S DOWN THE N. W. COAST OK AMERICA, IKOM JCRT DE FRANCOIS TO AJONTilREV :— DISCOVER lEd AND OBSERVATION'S ON THE rOAST : — DESCRIPTION OV THE I!AY OF MONTF.REY : — A STR ONOMIC A L OBSERVATIONS : — SKETCil or TMF TKESENT STATE OF THK TWO CALI- JURNIAS, &C. Tnii Frencli voyngeis were now anxious to hasten a'.vay from a scene of so much misfortune. Much prudent consideration was necessary in fixing tlie jilin of their next coarse. They were to trace tlic outline of the American coast to the southward j und it was at the same time requisite that they slunild manage so, as to arrive at Manilla about the end of January •, at China, in tlie course of Februa- ry. It was settled, that they should p;o into har- bour no where but at Monterey. A promotion was ■mudc among the oliicers, to till up the places of those who liad perished. It w is settled, with the consent t)f thf ollicers and }»ass. 11 rst |«;o they had only an imperfect view of the mountains and low grounds. This coast had been before exa- mined by Cooit ; and as his accuracy could require but little correction, M. de la Peyrouse was there- fore willing to run along as rapidly as possible. He looked in vain for the pretended moulli of the ^r- cbif)elago of St La7ARUS of the Spanish admiral FuENTCs. Fogs, rains, and calms, continued from the day on which they set sail, until noon on the 4th of August. They were then in 57° 45' N. Lat. and at the distance of 3 leagues from the land. At 4 o^clock, P. iVI. on the same day, the fog.^ cleared up, and our voyagers could perfectly d(stiu» guish the entrance of Cross Sound •, which seems to form two very deep bays, and aflords, possibly, good anchorage for shipping. The loftiest range of snow- covcreii mountains, rising from 130010 14CO toises in height, has its termination at Cross bound. The lands become here lower, and are to the very sum- mits overgrown with wood •, yet still retain a moun- tainous character. At r.anset, M. de la Peyrouse found himself opi)osite to the western point of Cross Sound. l he frigates continued to run along the coast at 3 leagues of distance fromh. Fogs covered the mountains ; but the hiwlands wore, at intervale, distinctly visible. The progress was slow, for in 24 hours they had not advanced more than jo leagues. At day-break, on the fifih, they found themselves opposite to a Cape, southu-ard from the entrance of Cross Sound, to which they gave the name of Cape Cross. A multitude of low wooded islets now ap- peared before them : The middle ground e.xUibiud G3 78 LA r E V R O II S E ' S \' O Y A G b" high hills : '^I'he snow-covcrcd mountains were no longer seen. Ajiproacliiiii;- these iskts, till he coui»l discern fiom the deck the breakers on the coast, La Peyrouse discovert ti several passages of which he thought it probable that they might alTord good roadsteOils. On the 6th, tlie weather becoming somewhat clearer, permitted liim to ob^eivc the sun's altiliule, and hence to compare the tuic time with liiat wlilch was inLiicated by liieir linic-keepers : Tliey were i:i N. Lat. 1,7'^ 1^' 40" in longitude between 130" and J 40". At 7 in the evening, th< y could still pciceivc IMoi'NT Cmllon, healing nuitli ()(>" west. IVIoi'N'v Sr Hyacinth, bearing nuvtii 7S" east, and Capk Kn- tiANNO, east 10'* south. Cape ii.n-.yai)P.o is a low lau.i, covered with trees, and jutting tor a great way out into the sea. Mount .St ll);iciinh rises beyond it, in the form of a truncated c jue, round at the top, and elevated to the height of about 200 toises. I'rom tile north and south of Eiiganno, the coast it* bordered with islets lor a sjnice of lo leagues. At JO o'clock in the morning, they had passed all these isles. At 6 in the evening they perceived a Cape opposite to them, in a N. \L. direction, which ran a* good way to the westward. To this Cape M. cIjc la Fcyrou.ve gave the name of Capu rscmiuKovv, ia honour to tiic Rusvian navigator of this name, who,. In the year 1741, landed nejirly on this part of the American coast, i'o a large and deep Hay, lyinj* eastward behind the Ca]>e, I'eyrouse gave also the unme of TsrHiRiKow Hay. At 7 in the evening* they pttrccivd ^ groupe of j Iblets, unnaticcd by for* ROUND THE WORLD. 7f IT mer na vibrators. To these was ^iven the name of La Croyi:re Islands. During the whole of the 8tW the wind continued to blow favourably from the west. The found thenKelves to be in 55" 39' 31'"' N. Lat. ill 1:^7" 3' 2V' W. Lontr. Many openings between some considerable ishinds, wcrc> in varicu.s directions, visible to them 5 but the continent w>is at such a distance as to be beyond thf>ir sight. I'hi-; range of isles begins 4 leagues S. E,. from Cape Tschirikovv, and probably extends as far as to Cape i lector. l he currents near them are very strong, even at 3 leagu;;s distance the frigates felt their in- lluences. In this quarter lies Pokt BuccA?.ELLr, so named by Maurelle, a Spanisli pilot, wiio visiteii these coasts. At 7 o'clock in the rn;)rning of the 9th, our voyagers, continuing to run along at 3 leagues of distance from the land, approached the St Carlos isles. Of these, the most considerable lies in a direction from S. E. to N. W. and is a» bout 2 leagues in circumference. Other lower islets lie beyond it, farther within the channel. Op- posite to these isles, exactly at noon on the 9lh, ly.i Peyrouse found himself to be in 54" 48' N. Lat. itv J36" 19' W. Long. A breeze arose with consider- able force from the W. N. W. he endeavoured to approach the land j and at half past 7 o'clock in the evening, was less than a league from the coast : bu't- ihc shore was so much covered with fogs, and the. billows appeared to brcAk against it with so mucli. of dangerous violence, that he soon found it neccs- Trary to />/// ahouf^ and wait fv)r clearer weather. During the night between the lOtli aud the nth of r •/"I Mo LA PEYROUSE's voyage August the fogs tliickentd, and the winds blew with violence. Our voyagers tached and stood off the shore \ they approached the land about day-break r but the fogs still continued •, and it was impossible to obtain a sufficiently distinct view of the outline of the coast. For several days successively the fogs still continued ; on the morning of the 15th, the weather cleared up. They approached the coast, and perceived its extension to lie from N. N. E. to S. S. E. They were soon again inveloped by the fogs. The i^lh was calm throughout the day. On the 18th, at noon, they were within a league and a half of the shore, 'I'hey ran along it at this dis- tance, till a Bay was discovered, which appeared to enter deep into the country, and to which they gave the name of Dc la Touche Bay. From the 55" to the 33" the sea was covered with divers, of that spe- cies which has been named by BufFon, the viacareux of Kamschknlka ; the colour of the body of these fowls is black ) the beak and feet are red 5 on the head are two white stripes rising into tufts like those of the cockatoo. These fowls never wander farther than 5 or 6 leagues from the land. On the evening of the 19th, while the horizon was very clear, a Cape was discovered, which appeared to terminate the American coast. To this Cape, M. de la Pcy- touse gave the name of Cape Hector. ', beyond it appeared 4 or 5 islets, which he denominated Ke- ROWART Isles. Ihc latitude of Cape Hector is in 51° S7' ^o" N. and its longitude, according to the time-keepers of the frigntts, in 13.1° 37' VV. Oa the 2 1 St, at noon, thry were in jz" i' N. Lat. in ROUND THE WORLD, 81 13^*^ 7' 31" W. I.onnr. and they here sounded, with- out being able to find any bottom. 'Ihc breadth ot' the gulph, which tliey perceived to intervene between Cape Plector and an isle, the farthest to the S. E. of the new group, to whxh they gave the name of Cai'e JfLEURiEu, appeared to be about 30 leagues. Beyond this group of isles, v>-as the Continent perceived. Its primitive mountains, covered over with snow, des- titute of wood, and towering up into lofty peaks, seemed to lie more th;n 50 leafiruerf backward, at their points of highest elevation, into the interior country. In comparison vwith these mountains, only inferior hills had been seen from Cross Sound, thus far along the coast. Advancing onunrds, they passed nigh sevt rai clusters of islcs ; upon which, however, not a buih nor sl^rub was to be acen. I'o these clusters ^sas given the na'ue of i3AKri>E Isles. Hav'iiig paiS-d these islcs, they agulu Jtoce/ toward the continent j they could not now distinguisli the tops of the mountains, but very distinclly saw the low lands. On the 23th, our voyagers continued to proceed eastward towards Noo tka Sound. They had before observed the Woody Point of Cook to be precisely in 50'^ 4' N. Lat. an4 in 13:^" 23' W. Long, a posi- tion somewhat dlifcrcnt fiom that assigned to it by Coojc. A thick fog obscured from their view the land of Ncoika. On the ..8th, at 5 o'clock in the evening, they found themselves opposite to Cock's BR.t:AK.[.Rs Point. On the 1st of September, at noon, they came within sight of a point or cape which bore N. N. 1£. from tliem about tea leagues. /^ $2 LA PEY rouse's VOYAGE The land extended eastward j but the fogs cover- ed all its projecting parts. The cunents upon these coasts run strong j and the frigates had fre- quently to make their way through whirlpools. 7'hey continued to sail along the coast, in circum- stances nearly similar to tho^e which have been de- tailed, till they came into 42° 58' S^" N. Lat. 127° }i' 20" W. Long. Here, at about a league's distance from Cape Blanco, they observed nine little rocky islets opposite to them, to which they were induced to give the denomination of NECKAa's Isles. Pro- ceeding along the land at three or four leagues dis- tance, they could perceive only the tops of the mountains rising above the clouds. Continuing to steer to the southward, they found the skies less clear than in the mure northern latitudes A vol- canoe on the top of a mountain, burning with a very lively flame, attracted their notice, as they sailed on. On the 8lh of September, the atmosphere cleared up, and they could again discern the distant tops of the mountains •, but the weather became continually wi rse, and fogs continually impeded their endeavours to explore the outline of the coast. They knew themselves to be near to the Bay of Monterey j they approached within a leigue of the shore, and could very distinctly sec the billows breaking upon it, 'J'hey were now actually within Monterey Bay j but the haziness of the weather mad* it still impossible for them to recognise the Spanish scttUmcnt. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon of the 14th of September, they came within sight of Fort MoNTLREY, and perceived two tluec masted vcsscU ist. of of Ivvs liin Ish at ROUND THE WORLD. Sj lying In the rond •, adverse wtnds obliged them to come to an anchor at the distance of two leacjaes from the shore. Rut, on the day follov^ing, they approached uithin two cables len^ih of the land, and cast anchor in water which was twelve fathoms deep. This they were enabled to do by the direc- tion of pilots, who, during the ni^iit, had been sent out to thera from the shore. In the whole course from Port de Francois, even amiJst the thickest fogs, the two frigates lia I always sailed sulViciently near to be able to hail one another, till they came to the bay of Monterey. New Year Point, to the North, the Point of Cyprus, to the South, form the Bay of Monterey : Its breadth between these two points is about 8 leagues j it descend nearly 6 leigues eastward into the coun- try J and Vi bounded at its bottom by low sandy grounds. N. and S. from the b.iv, the lands are high and tvooded. Under the full and tlie chang- ing moon, the Howing tide is at its height, at half pnst one o'clock. As tiic bay is very open, ^\\^t current in it is nearly imperceptible. Whales sport in it in prodigious numbers, surround the ships ^\ilh the greatc-.t fuulliarity, and spout out streams of water, which iiilect,the air with their no some stench. Togs contiiuially overhang these co'ists J and occasion dilHculty in the appro, ich to ti hli M'c which wuu Id ot icrvvise be very easi ly and suf ly accessi!)lc, Peli':.uis, birds which never go f irihor th.ui 3 or 6 leagues f. oni the land, are nu- merous in uns bay. A liciutnant'Colnntl, the Spanish govcrnov of the Califoini.ts, h,t< his residence at Monterey. / e-j LA P F. Y R U S E S \' Y A C E His government extends over a territory not less tluin 8o3 lea»;ue.s in circumference. Yet 282 sol- diers of Spanisli cavalry are tlie only persons actual- ly subject to its authority. This small military force IS distributed into garrisons occupying 4 or 5 difter- ent forts, and into detncbments of four or five men to every one of five and twenty parishes, into which the wl-.ole territory is sub-divided. About 50.000 ■wandering Indians arc easily kept in awe by this :>mall military force : but of those Indians, nearly 10,C00 have embraced the Chribti.in religion. Lo- retto, the only presidency of C)ld California, is on the eastern coast of this peninsula j its garrison con- sists of 54 dragoons. There belong to it I ; mis- jijons or parishes, of whitli the duties are performed by Dominican friars. The long apostltship of the Jesuits, and the Frsinciscans, has converted and col- lected together about 4,0':o Indians in these 15 i)a- rishes. Of the Northern California, St Diego, the oldest settlement, was first established on the C)i\\ of July I'Tx;. IMontercy, now t'ne capital of the two Calirornias, is an c>;iablislimcnt not older than the year 1770. Tiic Kond of Monterey, ^^as, in. deed, before known, and orc.islonally visited by tlic gnlleon.s from Manilla. Tiiii following are the names of t'-.c surrounding missions, and of the presidencies %vhlch have since been established in these parts. ]t i», however, proper, first to ^bseivt, that llie Spaniards give the name of Presidency to any fort situate in Pii infidel country, ^vhclhcr Africa or A* m:rira. ROUND THE WORLD. s. ** lie lie an Ill- he lies II Cb lis. he »rl jl cr. (^ z/i fir. (r> (j^ U) en en fifi .,,,-,,, W^ &3 M W^ M^ a P W &J M -1 D3D3333333 ^ . 1 C ►- 3 vn c- TJ S' . &" ^rf • w 5 . 1 3 r C/» in en cfi t> l: h) |u P W h-^ ■S-s? 1— -• i-H — -• ^* r* "-^ >—• o B 03 3 w::^:?^3 3 3 .T ^ i 3 ^ ^ « o o 5.? . O* • ni»«tQ, 1 • CJ ^ ,, .«••• !/«••• •■» ^t M *- 00'>J t^i *0 M ta. to. OJ ? rr '^ Si 3* r» "^ r* ^ >■> r^ ^ '^ ^ ^ en ar*— -< l•^ l^. s ^ 3 a 3 ^"5 3-^ . « ST "^ - '-^ m • <-i 5 1 - "I >i * -t * . . « . . » "• I •^1 ^T ^T «vT ^1 -^1 ^I ^J ^1 ^f ft 0>"^l *-i (JO 30-» -J --I ^1 --t ■ No CN - CA t^ ON^ K» - O •r ' 86 LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAOK These missions and presidencies are supported at a great cxpence, for the purpose of civilizinir the Indians. The regular clergy, to whose management they have been intrusted, are understood to dis- charge their respective functions with the greatest piety, alacrity, and fidelity. But the Indians are treated by them rather as children than as persons of mature undeistanding. In the churches arc cx- Iiibitcd paintings of hell and of heaven, such as seem to be adapted powerfully to strike the senses of a rude and simple people. Tiic men and women arc nssetnblcd to church, to woik, and to all their exer- cises. by tl ic snunc; 1 of a bell ; while one of the Fa- thers still conducts and directs tlicm. Fetters, the stocks, the strokes of \ whip, are so many modes of jnuushment to which their religious and moral de- linquencies are, by these their spiritual f.itlurs, sub- jected. Seven liours in the d «y are allotted to la- bour, two hours to prayers. A new convert, from among the heathen Indians, if once received into the society of thc->c christianized Indians, is never aL',niti suffered to make his cscnpe ; but, upon any such at- tempt, never fails to be pursued, hunted out, and lirought bark to condign punishment. The Chii«;- tian Indians arc obliged to rise with the sun ■, an hour is then dedicated to the services of mass and ]»rayers. A IjreakFast of barley meal awaits them nt their icturn from the service. It is boiled in wa- ter ; the Indians give this fjod the name of nto/i- ; and, tlunigh it be unsen'oncd with either butter or silt, ate e.vtiemely fond of it. It is prepared iti three large kettles in \\\z mividlc of the scnt allows the sum of 400 piastrea to each m'ssionnry •, and their numl)cr is fixed at two for each parish. The college of Mexico, how- ever, never sends hither actual money, but only the value in commodities, wax candles for the church, chocolate, sugar, oil, wine, and linen for girdles to the Indians. The salary of the Spanish Governor of California is j|?oo jiiastrcs j that of the Lieiite- H3 . 56 LA PEYRO use's VOYAGE nant Governor 450 j that of the Captain-Inspector of the 283 cavalry distributed in the two Caliphor- iiias, is 2C0O *, each soldier of the cavalry has 217 j.)iastres, yearly, for his arms, horse, and whole sub- sistence. These were the principal observations ^vhich the French voyagers were enabled to make concerning the Spanish colonization of the two Ca- lifornias, and concerning the condition of those In- dians who have been persuaded there to embrace Christianity, and to submit themselves in peace to the government of the Spanish missionaries. 'Ihe wilder, uncontroverted Indians, display some of those virtues and talents peculiar to the savage character, which their converted brethren appear to have lost. They draw the bow with inimitable skill J and will biing down even the smallest birds with unerring aim. One of these Indians will fix upon his own the head with the horns of a stag j will walk on all fours j brouse the grass j and by this and other practices, so deceive herds of these animals, that they shall, without alarm, permit him ;o approach near enough to kill them with his ar- 10W8. Maize was the only original object of the Indian agriculture in these parts. Hunting and fuhlng have been, and still continue to be, the grand resources upon which these Indians dfpend for the means of subsistencct The independent Indians live distributed in runchcrics^ or villages. They are ac- customed to paint their bodies red in ordinary life, hut bl.ick, when they are to appear in the guise of mourning' The tics of consanguinity a»c little iu:knowIedgcd by them. The children fiult thcia- ROUND THE WORLD. 9« father's hut as soon as they have acquired strength to procure the means of subsistence for themselves. Their father, by whom they have been restrained, and harshly treated, is soon forgotten by them ; or, if remembered, remembered only with aversion. Their mother, their relation to whom they knew only from her tenderness, is longer and more kindly remembered. These independent hordes are often at war among themselves : But they respect the Spanish missions. An wooden bow, strung with the sinews of an ox, with ^ arrows pointed with a sharp flint, are their ordinary weapons. As in Ca- nada, they scalp the vanquished in war, and pluck out their eyes, to be preserved as precious memo- rials of the victory. If they happen to slay on the Held of battle, an enemy whose extraordinary prow- ess they have been long accustomed to dread, the furious joy of victory will, in such a case, sometimes prompt them to quaff his blood, und devour his mangled limbs. Yet, they are not accustomed to make an ordinary practice of eating in cold blood, cither the prisoners whom they take, or the mame- less dead whom they slay in war. Of their own dead they burn the bodies, and deposite the ashes in rude funeral monuments. The taken ia and loussi, arc the two games which employ their lei- sure J and to these they arc addicted with passionate fondness. The former is played with u small hoop, through whicli it is endeavoured to make certain sultiibic sticks pass, while it rolls round a smooth sprice of ten square toises on the ground. The tous" ji is pUiycd by hiding a piscc oX wood in tlic hands 92 LA PEYROUSe's voyage on the one side, while the other party in the play guesses how the piece of wood is disposed of. Beads, the favours of the women, and whatever else they possess of value, are the prizes of these games. The language of these people Is far from being known in all the copiousness of Its phrases, or the analogy of its structure. It is rather from the con- verted Indians, than from the wild natives, that we derive what knowledge is to be obtained of it. The AciiASTLiENS, and the Ecclemachs, the two tribes inhabiting near Monterey, speak each a different lan- guage. The language of the converted Indians in the missions, is compounded out of both these two. Their abstract terms are scanty. Their epithets' for the qualities of moral objects, are almost all borrowed from the sense of taste. They distinguish the plural from the singular number. They vary their verbs through several different tenses. I'hcir substantives are much more numerous than their ad- jectives. They never use the labials, /, />, nor the letter x\ The diptliong o//, appears in more than half their words. Their most common initial con- sonants are, / and /•. None of them can easily count, otherwise than upon their fingers, beyond the num- ber five. ilc The following are the numerical terms of the AcilASTLItNS : Que, Moulala Two, Uuiis Three, C(./*c's Four, Otttits ROUND tHE WORLD. 93 Ml- Five, Is Six, Etesahe Seven, Ka/cis Ei^ht, Ouluusmasakben Nine, Pak Ten, Tfjnta The following arc the numerical terras of the ECCLEMACHS : I One, Pek Two, Ouluch Three, Oullef Four, Amnahon Five, Pemuca Six, Pckolana Seven, Houiakoalans Eioht, Ilou/efala Nine, Kamahouaiane Ten, Tomoila ir. Here follow a few other words of the same lan« guage. Friend, . Ni}rrffth Bow, Pag'itiach Be&rd, Leo t re To dance, Mespa Teeth, yiour Skull, Opababo.<: No, Muui Yes, Ih Father, Aoi Mother, Aix,ia 94 LA PEYROUSK'S VOYAGK Star, Night, Aimoulas Toumanes No country in the world is more abundant than California, in game and fish of every description. The thickets and plains abound with small grey tuf- ted partridcres, fat and finely flavoured, and which appwar commonly in companies of three or four hun- dred together. Spavrows, tit-mice, speckled wood peckers, end tropic birds, are found in prodigious numbers, in the woods. Hares, rabbits, and stags, are very common. Seals and otters are found in great numbers j and tp the northward, there are multitudes of bears, foxes, wolves, and wild cats, killed in the winter. Among the birds of prey, are, the white headed eagle, the great and small falcon, the goss-hawk, the sparrow-hawk, the black vul- ture, the great owl, and the raven. A bee- eater, which has been supposed to be peculiar to the old continent, was here killed, and stuffed by the French ornithologists. Wild ducks, the grey and white pelican with yellow tufts, different species of gulls, cormorants, curlieus, ring-plovers, small sea-water hens, and herons, are seen on the ponds and on the sea shore, The soil is wonderfully fertile. Fari- naceous roots and seeds of all kinds afford a rr^ost a- bundant increase. The crops of maize, barley, corn, and pease, are to be equalled only In Chili. The medium produce of corn Is from 70 to 80 for one J the extremes are 60 and 100. Fruit trees have not yet been introduced In any considerablo number or variety. The nio.st prevalent forest trees ROUND THE WORLD. 95 are the stone-pine, Cyprus, evergreen oak, and the occidental plane-tree. The forests are clear of un- der-wood, and exhibit, under the shade of the lofty trees of which they are composed, a verdant carpet of grass. Vast savannahs are interspersed among the forests. The rivers are not numerous j and were it not for the moisture of the atmosphere, the face of the ground might perhaps prove too arid for vegeta- tion. It was in the evening of the 14th of September, that the two frigates cast anchor off Monterey, in viewof the presidency and of the ships in the road, and at the distance of about two leagues from the shore. At 10 o'clock, the captain of a corvette in the road, came, in his long boat, to the ship of M. de la Pey- rouse, and offered to pilot the frigates into the port. At 10 o'clock on the next morning, the frigates weighed anchor, and proceeded into the road. At noon, they cast anchor in a safe situation within the road, and were saluted with a discharge of 7 guns from the Spanisli vessels which they found in it. M. de la Peyrouse, without delay, dispatched an of- ficer to the governor of Monterey, with an open let- ter to the viceroy of Mexico, of which M. de la Pey- rouse was the bearer from France. Pil. Fa(;;es, com- mandant of the fort of the two Californlas, had al- ready received orders to treat the French voyagers, •whenever they should arrive, witli every possible de- monstration of civility and respect. Oxen, roots, guci^tr:, and milk, were immediately sent on board the French ships in great plenty. There wa- sient blasts of wind. At sun-set, however, and at other times, when the face of the sky would for some moments clear up, the horizon would open around, for a space of lo or 12 leagues. Sea-fowls still continued to hover around them, in Hights of several hundreds together, and moving in various directions, whicli made it impossible to ascertain, with precision, to what quarter they went. The moon irradiated the nights with a lustre which tempt- ed our navigators to steer on, though with a motion somewhat slower than during the day. While they were thus advancing, they perceived, towards half an hour past one o'clock in the morning, breakers at two cables length n head of the ships. They sounded, and foun I nine fathoms water, witli a locky bottom. Soon afterwards, the sounding indicated ten fathoms,— twtlvc fathoms. In about a quarter of an hour, however, tht;y got no gtound with sixty fathoms. They had escaped a danger the most ter- rible to which navigation can be exposed. For nearly an hour afterwards, they perceived the con- tinuation of the breakers. Thty htld their course westward •, and within three hours, had lost sight of fhcm. Desirous to ascertr.in, beyond a doubt, the existence of that sunken rock upon which they had been near to perishing \ they again turned their course in the morning •, returned within view of It •, perceived an islet of split rock^ the diameter of which might be about 50 toises j in its height, from ROUND THE W R L D," 103 20 to 25 fathoms. That islet formed t'le N. W, extremity of a reef of rocks extending more than, 4 leagues to the S. E. It was on the S. E. point of the reef, that our navigators had been exposed to the danger ef perishing. Between the islet and the S. E. breakers, were three sand-banlys, raised not more than four feet above the level of the sea. These were parted from one another by a sort of greenish water, which did not seem to be a fathom deep. Rocks, level with the water, surrounded that shoal as a circular inclosure j and, on their ex- terior sides, the sea broke with extreme violence. Of the northern part of these rocks, our navigators could obtain only a bird's eye view from the mast- liead. Perhaps it may run in that direction to a farther extend- than it appeared to them ta do. Its length, from S. E. to N. \V. is 4 leagues j its geo- graphical situation, estimated from its only visible part, is in 23'^ 45' N. Lat. in 168° 10' W. Long. ; It lies 2j° 20' N.W. from Isle Neckar.. It is not safe to approach it nearer than at the distance of 4 leagues. '1 he French navigators named it, on ac- count of the danger to whic^ they had been expos- ed by coming too near to it, Basse des Frecates- Francaise. It will be of infinite importance to fu- ture navigators, who shall have occasion to sail in this couise, that the existence and the extent of this ledge of rocks have been thus accuiately ascertaiu- cd, and made known* . •*. ,• v* 1 Our navigators now directed their course to the \W. S. VV, Jn this direction, they had reason to Ik)^u that tUcy migiit the soonest had land. They 104 LA PEYRODSE's voyage crossed the trpct of Captain Clark, at 179'' of E. Long, on the i6th of November. They had hoped that they should now fall in with the trade-winds. Yet, for some time longer, they had varying winds, shifting chiefly between S. W. and N. E., contrary to what the experience of former navigators had led them to expect. At 2 o'clock in the afternoon of the 14th of December, they reached the Marianne Islands. Jn the latter part of their progress hither, they had in vain attempted to discover the Mira^ Desert^ and Garden Islands of the common maps. Finding, however, no such isles, they concluded, perhaps too hastily, that they must have no- real existence. Among the Marianne Islands, they found As<^uMPTiON Island to have its true position in J9**43'N. Lat. in an 143" I3'.E. Long. Its cir. cumference cannot be more than 3 leagues. Imagi- nation cannot conceive the existence of a place more hoiiible in the aspect. It seemed a perfect cone, of wh'ick. the surface was black as coal, to the height of 40 loists above the level of the sea. A few co- coa nut trees appeared in a hollow of about 40 toi- ses, in which they were in some measure sheltered from the east wind. There, was the only place where it seemed possible for ships to anchor ; and the anchorage at tltat part, was, for a quarter of a league, a bottom of black sand under water thirty fathoms deep. The Astrolabe here anchored. La Boussole was prevented by an accident, from com- ing to anchor. The boats of the two frigates were sent on sho(e. In tliem went M. de Langle, with Me&srs Boutin. De la Martinieic, Vaujuas, Pre- ^ ■• ROUND THE WORLD. 105 vost, and Father Receveur. They landed, not without extreme difficulty. The island appear- ed to them a thousand times m^re horrid than it hacl, at a quarter of a league's distance, seemed to be. It presented ravines and precipices which had been formed by torrents of lava j and were bor- dered by some few stunted cocoa trees, amidst which grew some creeping plants, matted together in a manner tliat made it almost impossible to walk among them. About an hundred cocoi nuts w;re picked up under the trees. But the dlfTiculty of the way was such, that fifteen or sixteen psrsoris were employed from nine in the morning till noon, in bringing these on board the boats. The summit of the cone forms, as it should seem, the crater of this volcanic isle. Around its sides, the lava has streamed down, and has became solid as it cooled. A cloud hid the highest point from the view of the French navigators. But a smell of sulphur, which ,it emitted to the distance of half a league out at sea, induced them to think that its volcanic fires were not yet entirely extinguished, and that its last erup- tion might have happened at no great distance of time backward. No humin inhabitants, no quad- rupeds, seemed to have as yet chosen these desolate scenes for a place of refuge. Oi the shore were some large crabs. At the anchorage were seen three or four noddies. M. do J^angle killed on the isle a bird of a black colour, not unlike to our Eu- ropean bliick-blrd. In theh )llo\\s of the rocks, were found some very fine shells. A collection of plants, and among these three or four diirerent species of if i "^i t ic6 LA PEYROUSE's voyage Banana trees, which M. de la Peyrouse had not elsewhere seen, were brought on board. The only fishes which the French navigators saw here, were the red ray, the small shark, and a sea serpent, a- bout three feet in length, and three inches in thick- ness. About two p'clok in the afternoon, the boats returned to the thips, after having been exposed to- considerable dangers. About three o'clock they renewed their course, proceeding W. N. W. in a direction at three or four leaguf s distance from IManqs,— another of this group of isles which bore to them N. £. by N. Hiid it not been for the dclny it would have occasiongd ) M» de la Peyrouse could have wishrd to have ascertain- ed the precise situation of Uracas, the most norths em oftlie Marianne isles : but his arrangements would not leave him time to accomplish tliis object. Ai they advanced, innumerable birds hovered around them. Among these, the man of-war-bird and the noddy were the most common. Gulls, terns, and tro- pic birds, likewise appeared in the crowd. In the channel between the Mariannes and the Piiilippjnes, the breezes were strong, the sea ran high, and our navigators were constantly driven southward by the currents. La Boussole was now, for the first time, observed to admit some water ^ and, upon examina- tion, several of her seams were found to be almost entirely open. On these, hovvever, it was impoisi- ble to work, till the frigates should arrive in the road of Macao. On the 28th of December, our voyagers came within sight of the Bashee island', 1 hey passed at about a league's distance from the •,1/ ■> "I I, >' ROUND THE WORLD. 107 two most northern Islets or rocks of this group. Of these two, the smallest is half a leai^ue in circum- ference ; and there appeared to be on its east side a good deal of grass : Its west longitude, fixed from the medium of more than sixty lunar observations, is 119® 41' J its north latitude in 21** 9' 13". From these isles, our navigators continued their course to China. On the first of January 1787, they^had ap- proached so near to the Chinese coast, that their soundings indicated a bottom under sixty fathoms depth of water. Next day they were surrounded by Chinese fishing boats, which fished by dragging over the bottom with very long nets, that could not be hauled up In less than two hours. On the 2d of January, the frigates cast anchor to the north- ward of the island of LiNG-TiNG. On the 3d, pas. sing through a very beautifal, but apparently little frequented channel, they were conducted by Chinese pilots into the road of Macao, where they cast an- chor. 1'^ M" CHAP. 'r ic8 ^A peyrous-e's voyage CHAPTER SEVENTH. KARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE CONTINUED, FROM THE 3. OF JANUARY TO THE 9. OF APRIL 17^47. TRANSACTIONS AT MACAO, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THAT PLACE', PASSAGE TO LUCONIA : AND THENCE TO MANILLA: DESCRIPTION OF MANNILLA, &C. At Macao, our voyagers expected a favourable re- ception from the Portuguese : They approached the town : and M. Boutin was sent on shore to announce their arrival to the governor. He failed not to make every offer of all the assistance in his power. A Malay pilot, sent from him, conducted them to the anchorage of Typpa. At day-break on the 4th, they proceeded towards that anchorage j at eight ©■'clock in the morning, they were at five miles N. W. from the town of Macao, upon a muddy gi'ound, under three fathoms and a hitlf depth of water. They cast anchor o/ong sidt of a French armed vessel, which was commanded by M. de Richery, ensign in the Navy j which had been sent to cru'ze on these eastern coasts, for the protection of the French trade. It may be naturally conceived, that our navigators had infinite pleasure in meeting, after so long an ab- sence, with a ship's company of their countrymen. They were, however, very painfully disappointed, in not finding at Macao those pacquets of letters which they had expected. It unluckily happened, that, out of two ships which alone had sailed from ifar ROUND THE WOULD. 109 tr. in sc e. rs 'I Irs France, to arrive, this season, at China, one had missed its passage : and on board this one, they now supposed that their letters might have beerj put. After their ships were safely moored, Messrs de la Peyrouse, and De Lanqle, went on shore to thank, the Portuguese governor for the favours he had al- ready shown them. He recti ved them with as much kindness as if he had been their fellow-coun- tryman j begged them to use his house as their own j and introduced them to his wife, a young and lovely. Portuguese lady from Lisbon, who, speak- ing French with great facility, acted as interpreter between her husband and the French captains. This lady, Dona Maria de Saldagna, had, about tweb e years before, married M. de Lemos, at Goa. Ve- ry soon after their marriage, M. de la Peyrouse had happened to be introduced to her in that city. He was now proud to find, that she recollected him as an old acquaintance j and had pleasure in seeing her children, whom she presented to him. Every accommodation which our voyagers desired, and which it was in the Portuguese governor's power to bestow, was readily supplied to them during the whole term of their stay in the road of Macao. The settlement of Macao was bestowed by the Chinese emperor, Camhy, upon the Portuguese, in gratitude for the service which they rendered him, by destroying, in the isles adjacent to Canton, the pirates who infested these seas, and ravaged all the C'hinese coasts. But, its original privileges are no longer duly respected. The Chinese, insolent and oppressive to all the Europeans who trade with K. ••^•v no LA PEYROUSn'S VOYAGC them, are particularly so to the Portuguese. Ma- cao stands at the mouth of the river Tigris, in 22^ l2'40"ofN. Lat. in iii" 19' :^c" K. Long. Its road, at the entrance of Typa, has huflicient depth of water for the reception of a 64 gun ship, bhips even of seven or eight hundred tons burden, can enter half laden into its port below the city. A fortress of tn'o batteries defends the entrance of the port. Tliree other small forts, mounted in all with 30 guns, guard the southern part of the city from the enterprises of the Chinese. A contiguous mountain, wlilch commands the clrcumjicent coun- try, appears to have had once a fortress on its sum- mit, which must have been impregnable. But the fort has been suffered to fall into ruins; and a church hrs been built there instead of it. Two citadels, cf which the one mounts 40, the other ^o guns, defend the hnd side of the Portuguese possession of JVIacao. The limits of the Portuguese do:nain extend scarce a league from the city. They are, at tliat distance, bounded by :. wall whicli a Manda- rin, with a few soldiers, guard. 'Ihc Purtugucse town and territory arc subject to the (-crasloiiil vi- hits of this Mandarin ; and \vhcncver l.'C enters It, the Portuf.ucse arc expected to silute his approach with the discharge of fi/e guns. Ytt, he nny not »«lcep on tlie Portuinicr,:* side or the w.i\. Twenty thous.ind Rouh may be tlic whole number of l^ir populition of Macao. Of these, an hundred are by birth Portuguese i ab lul t'V) thousand, J^ortu- gucse Indians j two thousand, CaiTre slaver, the do- mestic servants of the PortUi^ucse j ihj rest, Chi« cesj to ( nets gov and rtcli the is n vIcl'iI of jfl nnn(| KU'Ol Til. ratrol '.•ipul Kill I, OVcji- ! Chi' ROUND THE WORLD. Ill ncse. artizTns, or merchants. T! le 'ortUifuesc whether of Indian or European birth, cherish a pride which teache-; them ratlier to starve or beg, than employ themselves in the practice of the me- chanic arts. A governor, a senate composed of thi uio Lh th di rce vercaaorc^ with tne governor presiding over them, two judges of orphans, the a^jent lor the cl- tv, and a treasurer o f tl ic customs, disc.^'vriie the principal functions of the Portuguese government of Macao. All these magistrates are nominated by th e viceroy of G oa. Th e sen ate I lave th e sunreme superintendence of the revenues of tlic city. The j'.idges of orphans have the charge of the property ot* minors, tlie nominatlanoftutorsandgaardlaus.uiththe right of d'.'cision in all discussions respecting the sac- cesslon toestates : There is, however, a rightof appeal to Goa, from their sentences. The agcnc of the city n':tsas the medium of communica'.ion between the two [;overn!TiCMUs of P.^rtugal and China. He receives, nnd transmits to their r^.^jjcctive governments, tlie reciprocal complaints of the two nations. He ii the only person In the gf)vernmcnt of Macao, that is not removcablc out of otlicc at the pleasure of the viceroy of Goa, 'i'hc garrison of M icao '•onsisls of 183 sea p>ys, iod 120 militia. The soldiers are tinned with sttvesj their ollic:r8, indeed, wear swoids. but dare not draw them Hgalnst a Chinese. Th'. service of the guard consists in forming nigh: ratroles. Yet, if Hny of them should hurpiizc u (^uinese robber bi caking into a house, nnd shorhi kill iiim *, the luckless soldier would be delivered over to liie Chinese governor, and wojU be ha:igci K 2 til LA FEYROUSE^S VOYAGE in tlic middle of the market-place. The appear- ance of the city of Macao is very pleasing. Si.,)er- cargoes belonging to the different European compa- nies vvhicn trade to the East, are obli;;ed to pass thtir winters here, and oc( upy the best houses in the town. Several of the^e supercargoes are men of distinguished worth and inttlli|;ence. 'I he emo- luments they enjoy, enable them to live in conside- rable luxury and splendour. 'I'hey compose all to- gether a very agreeable society ; the French cxpe- licnced from them a very kind and hospitable recep- tion. IVI. E'Slockcnslrom, principal secretary for the Swedish East India Compmy, treated them with the kin Iness of an old friend, or rather of a i'silow- count! ymnuj zealous fi^r the glory of their country : Mc obligingly undertooktosclltheir peltvv, »nd to remit the produce to the Isle of Eraiicc. '1 he commerce of the Chinese with Europe, of the transactions of which a part arc carried on nt IMa- i;ao, nmounts to fifty millions annually j of these, two- fifths are p;iid by the I'luropcans, in 'Ivcr. I'avment is made for the rest in En J an. I i'.s gvo nui is s^t good, that even tlicse will ^curccly drive u ihip 1^ ir.g here, itcwt ks ancho;(igei : » jm6 LA PEYROUSE*S VOYAGE A sho-t Stay in the Port of Mativelle, for thcf purpose of procuring wood, gave the French voya- gers an opportunity of acquiring some knowledge of this isle j tlicir attempts to procure some fishes, by hauling the iine^ were unsuccessful, on account of the rocks, and the shallowness of the water near the shore. 1 hey picked up, to enrich their collection of shells, some curious specimens of that which is named the thorny wood cock. On shore, they came to a village coi.si'^ting of about forty houses. The foundations of these houses were raised about four feet from the ground. Their walls and floors were of Bamboo, and their roofs were covered with leaves. They ascended by ladders. They have much the appearance of bird cages suspended in the air. The whole materials of such a house would, most pro- bably, not wei^h more than two hundred weight, A large ruinous edifice of liewn stone, with two brass guns at its windows, was observed in the front of the principal street. That house had been the a- bode of the curate, the church, and the Fort, till in the year 1780, the Moors from the isles to the south of the Philippiius burned the village', demolished this fortress, and carried almost all the inhai)ita'r.s of the place away as captives The colony has been ever since in a state (f decline. The lands are overgrown wllh weeds j and there arc few tame animals. A youni; ox, a sm:«n hog, and about a dozen fowls, wcie all that the French voyagtrs could purch;i8c here. 'I he curate, a young mulatto In- 4ian, inhabited the ruinous stone building. Mis fvhole furiiturc consisted ol a few c>;rlhe:i pots, and it ■BTJW^BW^ ROUfs'D THE WORLD, 117 3 paltry bed. About two hundred persons com- posed, as he informed our voyagers, the whole num- ber of his parishioners. These are liable to be continually alarmed by the piratical descents of the Moors, from whom they flee in trepidation to the woods. By these Moorish pirates, the trading boats which sail these seas, are liable to be continually harassed. They sail in very light rowing boats ; so that it is extremely dinicult either to escape or >i. overtake the swiitncss o ftt )f th eir movements. The next in authority after the curate, among these vil- lagers, is an Indian olKcer named alcadey who alone has the honour of carrying a silver-headed cane. ithorlty men IS iiis autnonty over the Indians, that none o i them dared to sell the smallest article to the French strangeis, until he had granted his permIs>ion, and even fixed the price. This oflicer is likewise the sole vender of tobacco. He sells it on account of the government •, and the poor Indians buy and con- sume it with extreme fondness. At the house of the curate, the Frencli navigators saw three small antelopes, which did not exceed the size of a large rabbit \ and of which the male and the female seem- ed cxictly a stag and a hinJ, in miniature. These the curate intended for presents to the governor of Manilla. Some beautiful birds, with plumage va- riegated with the most lively colours, attracted the notice of the Trench sportsmen in the woods, lint the forests were impenetrable, on account of the twining slirubs which filled up the spaces amidst the trunks of the tall fees. Tl icy pure based in the vill.ige sjm. turtle doves', which having on the mid- ii8 LA PETRODSe's VOVAGE ( die of the breast a red spot, exactly similar to a wound given by the cut of a knife, have hence ac- ^- **»'::^t: ROUND THE WORLD. 119 with whatever supplies they wanted, before the 5th day of April. M. Boutin experienced the most po- lite reception from the go"ernor-general j and the most positive orders were issued for the furnishing of the supplies which he required. A letter from the governor-general to the commandant of Cavite, authorised the latter to permit the French naviga- tors to hold free intercourse with the shore, and to procure from it every requisite assistance and con- venience. From this time, they experienced the most obliging hospitality fvom the inhabitants of Ca- vite. Their intercourse with the shore was very frequent and very agreeable. Houses for repairing their sails, salting their provisions, building two boats, erecting their observatory, and lodging their Naturalists and Engineers, — were furnished with a hospitable readiness and a happy accommodation, which they should hardly have experienced, even in any po \ rt of Europe. M. Be rmuucs, commander in the. Port of Cavite, paid the most assiduous "Mention to all their wants and wishes. On the 2d day after their arrival at Cavite, the two French captains, with several of their oiKccrs, sailed in their boats to visit the city of Manilla. 'Ihcy were entertained by the governor at dinner j he then sent the captain of his guards to conduct them to the houses of the Archbishop, tlis Intendant, and tlie other principal ofhcers of the government, resident in Manilla. They would have been exceedingly incommoded by the excessive licat, had not M. bcbir, a French mer- chant, politely sent them his coach to conduct them • n the dilFtrent visits which they had to pay in the ' 120 LA PEYROUSE's voyage town. At Manilla, M. de la Peyrouse saw M. To- bias, once governor of the Mariannes, whose cha- racter had been honoured by Raynal with such praises, that his countrymen were excited to abhor him as an unbeliever ; and even his own wife, a wo- man madly fanatical, sued out a divorce against him, on account of his infidelity. The French officers could not but in gratitude pay a visit to their oblig- ing countryman, M. Sebir. They found him to be a man of a very enlightened understanding, and an excellent heart. He had come to Manilla with hopes of finding here commercial advantages, of which he already saw himself disappointed by the prejudices against strangers, and the despotism of the administration. At 6 o'clock in the evening, the French gentlemen returned to their boats ; and a- bout eight, they were again on board their frigates. In circumstances so advantageous, they were encou- raged to ovtrhawl their rigging^ and to make f- most thorough repairs upon every thing about tl ships, that wanted reparation. To prevent any in- convenience from the tardiness of the merchants who had undertaken to furnish them with flour, bis- cuit, and other stores, — M. Consoles Carmagnal, Intendant of the Philippines, obligingly inspected the progress of the workmen, and hastened every thing as if he himself had been personally concerned in the success of the expedition of the French voyagers. Nor did the kindness of this gentleman rest here : He made the French Naturalists accept a multitude cf valuable specimens from his rich collections of the curiosities of the Philippines. He assisted thcra KOUND THE \i'ORLi). 121 in r>rocarInc{ money for bills of exchans{e to the a- mount of ij,coo piastics, which M. Khtockenstroni had, by this time, authorised them to draw upon him on account of th.eir otter-skins which Ind been left for sale under his chariTc. Th/s money was n:)\v distiibuted amon^j the sailors, as had been formerly promised to them. 1 he climate of Manilla proved less hos}>itable to our voyagers than \vcrc its inha- bitants. 'I he excessive heats proved unfavourable to the health of the ships ccmpXnics, in ^^-neral. Several of the sailors were attacked n-ith colic-. IMcssrs de Lamanon and Diiigrcmont, wlio were ill with dysentciies when they arrived in the port of Civite, became contitiually worse while on land there. IVL DaI;;rcmont died on the 2 ^th day after his arrival. M. Lamanon, with diPaculty, escaped. On tl.e /8lh of Alarch. the French voyagers had fi- nished everv labour that thev intended to execute at Cavlte. I'he salting of their proviscms they had performed themselves, upon the plan of procedure recommended by Commodoie Cooiv. While they were pre])aring to depart, they were Informed of the arrival In Canton River, of two French ships of war; L(} R'so/i/l-off, under the command of i\l. d'Entre- casteaux ; and La Subfi/(\ commanded by I\I. la Cioix de Castries. These gentlemen \vere ujion a voyage, of which the astronomical obstrvatlons must hereafter prove highly benendal to the navigation V f th ese sfas. The frij'atc La Subtile soon after joined our navigators in the Bay of Manilla, and bioumlit dispatches to M de la Pcyrouse. Eut no private IcUers were as yet received from Trance, 104 LA PEYROUSJS'S VOYAGE '1 From on board Lu Subtile, a supply of an ofiicei' atid four men to each of the fiigates belonging to this expedition, -.vas received, for the purpose of making up the loss they had suffered at Fort de Francois. M. de Saint Ceran being in a very de- clining state of health, took the opportunity of de- parting in la Subtile for the isle of France, After our voyagers were in almost all respects ready to sail, the toming on of Passion-week occasioned delays in particular articles, by which they were obliged to defer their departure ti; Easter- Monday. During the stay at Cavite, M. Hagelet, the astronomer, had enjoyed great advantages for his a'-tronomical obNer- vatlons J and he failed not to avail himstlf of them. He was enabled to determine tlie E. hong, of Ca- vite to be in ub" 50' 4.-", and its N. Lat. in 14" 29' 9" Befo'c their departure, M. de la Peyrouse, with IVl, de Larglc, went to thank the governor- jreneral for the attention he had shown to the expe- diting of tli'.ir alValrs. They waited nUo on the in- lendant y to whom their acknowledgments were not less due. After tl>is, they were hospitably enter- tained, for two days longer, at the house of JVI. Sc- bir, from whirli they took occasion to visit whatever was most rcm.itkabh,; in the environs of liie town of M..nilla. '1 he following are the principal obsri vatlons which the i' rench navig.'ton hid opportunity to make on the state of Cavite ti'-.a !\lanlHa, during their stay in these patts. — Cwirn Is situate 3 leagues "i, VV. from Manilla. Jt was formcily more considerable &ud llourlbhing tluti at prcicut. Its principal inha- V V ROUND THE WORLD. 1^3 bitants now are, tlic commandant of the arsenal, « contHclor, a commandant of the town, two lieuten- ants of the port, 130 soldiers witli their uilicers in garrison. The rest of the townsmen are mulattoes or Indians, to t'.ie number of about 4000, who live partly in the city, and partly in the suburb of iJt Roch. Il'ire are three convents, each occupied by only two ecclesiastics. I'he parishes are tuo ii\ r.umber. An hiuKJsome house, which belonged for- merly to the Jesuits, is now appropriated to the use of the Royal Commercial Company. The whole town, in truth, ha- more the air of an heap of ruins, than of the capital of a province. The port, how- ever, inspected by M. Bermudcs, is in a much bet- ter state. He has established admirable discipline and order in those works winch ar-: carried on in it. The workh.'uses are tlie same as in the arsenals of Europe J the workmen are Indinns.— The City ok' IMami.la, with its suburbs and in. lediate invlrons, is of ;;reaf extent. Of 38,0*0 persons, the whole number of its inliabltanti, not more than 1000 or 1230, arc Sp'.niards. Mulattoes, Chinese, and In- dians, make up the rest. Kven the poorest of the SpHni"!) families, keeps at least one carria^'C. A beautiful river, flowing by Manilla, divides itself, in its progress, into several dlllVrcnt channels, of which the two principal fall into the famous lake of Ba- MiA. Thu lake lies at the ilistance of 7 lea^rucn backward into the interior country, amidst an emi- nently fertile territory, and is bordtied by more than 100 Indian villn^es. INIanilla s'ands on the ve- ry shore of the Bay which bears its name. Tl iy K 2 .T24 LA P E Y R i; 3 K ' S \- O Y . i C C Bay r: more than 2^ lencruc^ !>? circumrerence. The river, wliicli pri.>>sc.s by IVlaniila to j)(>ur hb waters in- to this bny, Is nav:;;;ible as far urnvards as to the lake of Bahia. I be markets of'tiiis citv afford all the ne- cessarles of life in t'\ei;rcatest abund..nce j but, on ac- i. count or the restraints upon tiie freedom of trade, tl'.c prices uf all goods of luirupcan Tuniuifacture arc liere enormou \y hij;h. Of t.iie I-'h/lippp;!: Islks, in general, It must be fjwned. that the Spaniards do not appear di.ly to und'.rstand and cultivate their impor- tai'ce. I liCsc i>lcs are peopled by no fever thnn 3,oco,coo of Inhabitants, of which I^uconia alone contains about one-third part. Neither In their bo- dily nor mental power3, do the natives appear to yield at all to our Europeans. They practise both the agricultural and the mechanic arts, with abund* ant dexterity and skill. The Spaniards, indeed, speak of them with contempt. But their vices seem rather to be produced by the government under which they are enslaved, than to be the rciults of their native character. The hopes of gold were the first motives which iuvluced the Spaniards to oc- cupy t'.ie I'hilippliie Islands. '1 iie.e, however, iiave been but veiy poorly gratUud. Supervlition next «oii^ht its haive.'>ts, in the conver^on of the native Inhabitant'^ of these i^ks to the Catholic religion. CouiilJcraulc success attendcil its endeavours, and nil e.\trava^;nntly severe ])enilentlary discipline was, in conscfiucncc, rstabli*.hcd nmnn;; the converts, Tiic Calhulic pini.tnts of Alanilla mi>;ht olicn vie uith the Indian b'a«);iir in all Asia. Every peasant cultivutCi) the plant a- round his own hou>e. It is c.x|)orted hence into every part of India, by those foreign vessels wliicli have peinti'ision to laud at Manilla. But the ava- rice and iuhiimani»y of the government have lately Impoicd a tax, and piohibitory rcsliiclloas, which i;« LA r i; VR(i V'-i MS \ «) Y Ali' «t| ihcsr i^lcs Ikivc contimiril, till tliis time, t(? nijc^y. roKi.n, imliiM), siiv;;ii canes g\<>\v lici'c sjioii. tuiiooiislv, ill iMcMt ;il)\iiulaiu c I'mlcr proper ciiic .111(1 cultivation, thi' spires ot' tlic i'iiilipplMr Isjcs xvn\ili| pioliaMv not vicKI to iliosc ol the i\lfiliic( as, \ ;u-\v ( (itnpany ior the coinnicK c ol tlicsc isles, his ht'.ii r.tcly cicrtcd hv the Spmlsh ircn'rnnnt'nt. The iMcat ohjiTt ol Spain, iii iispci't^lo ihc tiMiU? between IM.inill.i and 'he ports of the Iiuiian < onti- lunt, is, to prot lire lluiui<;h this ihanni I, lor the Use pailieulatly ot h<'r Anu'ilian coKniies, and even id the p.iicnt i onutrv, thos,* artieUs (d use or ic". tiry, \vhM h are the prop»r pKului e am! niannlacturrt ol Inilia .ind China. I'"or this end, ihi'ii is a lair ]\c\\.\ at iM.tnillii, \vhi(.h is open to the Indian nitionv only. 'I'o this laii, ti'.e i;ooils lor sale ate indeed broiu;!)! under Indian names ; hut thev arc always iMu'lish nroiiertv, auvl are sohl on aeeouiU «)l I'.ni lish merchants. Sonu* Spanish setllenuiits subsist pre- cariously, and in no very llourishini; state, on thoe islands whieh lie southwaril iVoni l.ui onia. 1 he isl< s ot iMiM>\N \o, P\NAY, ai.v. l^llNllOono, ate inha- bittil bv l\lal»\s, whose piralieal depredations aic r\lrt«ul> troubltsume to tht' SpaniauN and tlieir Jndiju Mibiccls. 'I liev talvC ntanv captives in thtii piracies, which aie iViOjUcntly purcliastd fiom them fot slaves, by th.e very comm.uidcis ut' tlic .Spanish militia whieh has been ioriucd to oppose iheir dc- nceiUs. At S;t:Til;o.mg.in, in the island ot iVlindinao, U A tpanisli ijunison ot" l^^o men, whr-sc ccinma ;der IS aivo ijovcujor o i ll ic itlc n IC OlIliM' l« Ic^ ll tuous habitati(,n that even opulence heir r( 'jiiires. 'I'hc Spatiiards Mr. universally accus- tomed, iinmeiliately after tli were just alioiit to sail from tlio jn)rt of Cavitc, tlicy received a farewell vl'it fiiini till ir friend 1\I. Hiiimul' ., wlio assuird tlum that tlie N XL. Monsoon would not yt't, for a monlli, make that oliangc which was necessary tv) reiulcr their sail'nir pioipcroiis, in their liestincil coxirse. lUit lluy were in)|Kitient to proceed, and flattered t'lcmselves \\ith the hope of a lueky exccp- tii n for this year, such ss mi^^ht duly iavour their ui>hrs. On the i;th of Apiil, tlicy sailed wiih .1 fine breeze at N. iC. Small variations of the winds allowed tlum to );et speedily to the noithward of the Maud of Li'.conia ; hut tl'cv h id hirdiv sailed - roun.) Cai'K lirjAooR, when the wind steadily settled at N. v.. On the 2ist of April, they u ached the island ot Koumosa. In the channtl liet^veen that isle aid LuciMiIi, they met with some very violent cur- rents 0( casioned prohahly i). irregular tidis. 'Ihey vcre, on tlic .it) of Aptil, about -j leaj[ucs distnnt, E. by S. from JLainay hiAud, wnkh is at the J?. \V, t! f) tl sti th Sfi w UK tin cl sit Hit ho Jill leii (!u, t'Ml noiiNH ''MiK ^v'ir:. n. 129 iKll* 11 .1 lIUl i 11 of lilcil t'lO isli: ur- U' 7 n' po'w.l of Formosn. The sea licrc rolled in very Iiii.;ii bilious: ( )i]r voy.i|^;crs were led to tliink, that tlicy ini!.;ht procce I more lasjly iiorthwuHJ, iF tliey n,iv;lil iipproach ?i( iu'm- to tlie Cliiiicsc coast ; Uiiilcr the N. N. I'., uiiuls, tiiey steered to tlie N. W. Ill ihr middle (it the cliaiuu-l, in 2." 1,7' N. L;it. ;tiul ill I 16" 41' 1',. I.ou'.f. they ioiiiul, upoti soundin^^, a sandy buttuin, uiidcf 21; fithonni de[)tli of water : In 4 minutes, the depth of the water was diminislifd to 19 fathoms : A short time after, the line indicated only 12 fathoms. 'I'hey were at this time more than 5 lca;;ues distant from the Chinese roi'sr. Very properly jiid.'.in^, tlictcf^re, that, this shallowness of the water intlicatcd the presence of a saiuibanl; not yet laid down in any of the charts •, they turned their cours ajjain toward llic island of I'ormosi. I'inding tht iiie};ularitits of the bottom still to continue j ihry cast anchor, ard halted till the morning. In the morning, no hrcolicrs were seen aroiin dtl icm ; an dtl lev rcnewe d th cir course to- ward the continent of China. They were again in a short time alainied by a slallo^vnesR of the water, and inequalities of the bottom, similar to those which they had before observed. To gel beyond the sphere of lliis danger, they tiiri\(d their c>Mirse to the op|)0-. site point ot tiie coiupass. S. I'., by I" After run iiiiig in this maiiiu'r six leagues »A'er an unefjual i)Olt m of lock, and sand, »n i ilepth of water vary- ing from eleven to twenty four fathoms, they at li tndi ngtii t'luiul their soundings begin to indicate gra- tlually d'.oper and deeptr water, till at last, about. \<'\\ o'cloci; in the cveuinis al the dlstanrc of abou*. 130 LA PEYROUSE's voyage twelve leas^ues from the point from which they re- vertt^d their course, ihey could find no bottom. The bank., of which they thus ascertained the existence, has its S. E. extremity in iz° 52' N. Lat. and in 117" ^' E. Long. They were now carried towards the entrance of the Bay of Old Fort Zealand, on which stands the city of Taywan, the cajiit'-il of the ifile. The Chi- nese colony of Tokmosa was, at this time, in a state of revolt J and an army of twenty thousand men had been sent, under the command of the USantoq of Canton, to reduce tliem to their duty. Desirous to learn news of this war. La Peyrcuse came to an anchor a little westward from that bay, in water of the depth of seventeen fathoms. But, it afterwards occurred to his rellection j that there might be dan- ger in sending boats on shore, while the ships were at such a dislaiice out at sea \ and that, to u very considerable distance from the shore, the channel of the bay was, according to the old accounts of the Dutch, too sliallow to be safely acccisible to the frigates. He attempted, the**' .-, only to accost some of the Chinese fishing-bo-its which were fre- quent around him, and to oht ' \ from them the in- formaiion whicii he wanted. With d lliculty, he prevailed with one man to come on board *, who sold them some fisl)es at his own pi ice, but could nor, for the want of signs or speech mutually intelli- gible, communicate any nevvs to satisfy their curio- sity. Fires, wh'.ch might bt signals of alarm, were seen on the shore. IJut, it seemed probable, that the Chinese and the rcbil armies weif, at this time. ROUND THE WORLD. J3I upon some different ])art of the coast. Sailinfr, on the next day, td leagues northward, our navigp.tors came within sight of these sirmies, at the mouth of a great river, in 23" 23' N. Lat. Opposite to the mouth of this river, in thirty seven fathoms of water, over a muddy ground, the frigates cast anchor. At the same place lay the Chinese fleet, consisting of a great multitude of vessels. Before day, our voya- gers were obliged, by the badness of the weather, to weigh anchor, without having j;alned that know- ledge which they ardently desired, concerning the designs and movements of the warlike force before them. Htnndig fiom the shore, \^ilh topsails and courses cloie reefed. M. de Peyrouse hoped, that he might double the Pescaoore Isles, by keeping the ship's liead to the N. VV., before a N. N. E. wind. To his astonishment, f.t nine o'clock in the morning, several rucks, m ikmcr a part of that groupe of isles, were seen before them, in tlie bearing of N. N. VV. The billows rolled so hi;rli^ and so tem- pestuoi s, that the bvcfhers frjm tlicse rocks were not to be distinguished fiom tln;m. 'i'hey now tcich- ed and sto'id towaiils r ormosa. In this continu'Uion of tlicir course, they found the channel, betur^,a Formosa and tlie isles N. E. of the P' «c;idores, not to exceed four Itat'ues in breadth. Pcrcei^ in^ it, at length, impossible, that they should suc- ceed in ati ()ni[)hstiing thtir course through this c'.r.uint I, before the change of the mon oon ; they weie induced to direct their progress towards the most southern of ihc Pcycudores, beailng W. S. W. %vith the purpose of pussmg to tiic Eastward of PM: 132 LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE Formosa. They sailed alon^% parallel to the Pes- cadores, at two leagues of distance from them. These isles extend southward, at least as far as 23° 25'. They are merely an assemblage of rocks in almost every possible diversity of shapes. Five of them are of moderate elevation, like sandy do\vns, hut without trees. One exhibits as perfect a re- semblance to the tower of Cordouan, at the mouth of the river of Bourdeaux, as if it had been hewn out with hands. The Dutch, when masters of For- mosa, fortified the port of Ponghou, one of these isles : The Chinese, at present, maintain in it a gar- rison of five or six hundred 1 aitars. Sounding- sever;!! times where the water was considerably smooth, under the shelter of these isles, they found a sandy bottom, with remaikable inequalities of depth. Soon after, they directed their course E. S. E., of purpose to pass into tbe channel between For- mosa and the Jjashie Islands. Next day, they experienced a violent but transient blast of wind. Rains, such as are to be equalled only between the tropics, accoinp.inieil the winds. Li^htnin^s, with inct^ss'jnt Hashes, fioni every point of tl'.c horizon, inH nud ihc skies, througho t the night. One loud burstin;', tl>ip of thunder v;as, alone, heard. The wind was at N. W. durino this whole nii;ht : The chmds flew towanls the south-west : A f which hovered low over their head-., foUcnved th( 'K> imrulse of the lower currents of air, al one. it seemed as if vome crisis of nature ^vere threatened : and our navigators v.'erc, thcicfore, induced to steer I tl o ROUND THE WORLD. ^^S 'or- liiul. the |,vith Lon, )nc lo a distance from the .sliore. Duriiijr the next day they weis cietained in a dead cihu, m ili; ddl middie ot th'j c 11 an lie I bet vv ecn the Bashce Islaudi, and those of BoToL Tabaco-xima. Of this channel, the width may be sixteen leagues. Enabled by the winds to approach the isle of Kotol Tabaco-xima j thty could distincily peiceive three villages on Its southern coast. A canoe seemed to bend its course toivaids them, from ihe sliore. '1 he S. E. point o f the isle is in 2 N. Lat. in 1 n^'^ 3/ E, Long. rhe only bay in the isl-.nd, being open to the S. E. winds, which our voyagers hud now the mos in St to fear J tliey ^Ncre hence deterred from m.ik- g any attempt to land. No bottom was to h>» found l>y th.e soundings of the frig itcs, even at their nearest approaches In Dolo/ Tabuco xima. The islt: may be abo-.it four leagues in ciiciunfcrence. It is separated by a chanml of half a leag^ie, fiini an uninliabitable rocky i.-lct, the surface of which dis- plays somo shrubs, willi a li'th; gr:}s«y verdure. From the sea-shore, for ixv^- thirds of its elevation, ' l^olol Tabaco xiina, {irrscnts a territory clear ot wood J in many [)laccs cuUivatcd j lurrowcd, hero and there, with the channels of torrents which are occasionally precipitated fioni the mountains. The !f)cri)r one thiril oi the elevntloi of the i<.le, is co- lie ver/ summit, w th tiecj of tlic largest r/, vere SI d to t ze. Three consider tble vlllagis, s».cn by the French navigators, within the space of a league, seem to bespeak this isle to be not scantily peopled. In clear weather, Botol rabaco-ximi may prcl.ably be seen at 15 leagues distance \ but It is often hk"- ^34 LA peyrocse's voyage .1 ! I! rounded by fogs which must conceal it from the mariner's view. Our voyagers, after passing this i-le, had to con- tinue their course amid an archipelago of islands, which was hitherto known to the geographers of J^Iurope, only from a letter of the missionary father Gaubil. In that letter, he speaks with but little accuracy concerning the kingdom of Li(^ueo, and its six-and thirty islands, from the information of the King of Lifjueo's ambassador at Plkin. Every degree of vigilance and caution was, therefore, to be exerted, in advancing through this track. On the jth of Tvlay, at i o'clock in the morning, they came within sight of an island bearing from them N. N. £. They sailed along its western coast, at half a league's distance from the shore. No bottom could be found by their soundings here. Fires, in several places, and herds of oxen grazing on the sea-shore, soon evinced to them that this isle was inhabited. Canoes cu is the ancient name of the isle, its position is in 24° 33' N. Lat. in i2c'^ 50' E. Long. On the chart of Father Gaubil, the Kcmi Islis are a groupe of eignt •, and of these, it is tlie most western >vhich thft French navigators now s.tw from thcii siiips. The other seven isles to the eastward, were re- moved beyond the sphere of their horizon. From what Gaubil says of the great inland of Liqueo, it seems probable that Europeans might there find a favourable reception *, and that tijey m.g'.it open h commercial intercourse with its inhabitants, not less advantageous tlian that with Japan. The Indians of Kumi, reconciled to the French by their presents, and tlieir gentle demeanour, had returned on shorv, to bring them fresh provisions. But, a fair wind arising, encouraged our navigators L 2 'j« L A r E Y R O U S E ' S \- O \' A C E lo c-ini'iniic tlitir cnurse, \vitliout av.altin^r these f^ood peonlc^s renewed visit. They locfedcd rtonhwarcl with ;:li their .vaiis sc: ; aiul, at snn^et, had ciiflrcly lo^t sight of the i>les of Kumi. At day- brc.ik, i>n llic folhiivin;;- moininc, they came, fust, v.ichin si';ht of an i^lmd lo the N. N. K. and then of sevcr.ii rocky is^e'^ farthv?r to the cast. Tlic isle is rou'.ul, \\i ody, tW^p on rll side?, and most piohably uiiir.ii«j!v.ud. It ma\ he about 2 leagues iu tircL:!v.ft.r^j)CC. An.>tiier ish-, of equal .size, si- mihir form, a :VAU\:e alike wou leJ, hut of infeJor ilev.iiion, ppfcau-J, sonn after, in vi cvv, ]U[ u'ccn l.'jLS'JsIf.s wcrt £:cn f»vc intetj^rcnl groupcs of rocks, v.'ith nunibcilc&s r,ca fculs dying around. To the foimcr of these isles, M. de la Peyrouse gave the iiamv' of TiAuyu-r.-j j to t];e lattwr, that of Hoa riNsu both adoiittd from the chart of Father Gaubil. ■7.Vn-5j;w.j.v lies in 25° 5;;' in 1:.° 17'j HhV-.l-tu in 23° .|4' I\\ Lat. in 12;*^ 14' E. Lon^. At Icn^rth, cur voyagcis luid Itfc behind ihem the archipe- lago of i!;c i'lt'3 of Liqueo •, Hn'i entered the more spacious :ca bel ween Ch ma an d Jap in. Th ey ucre anxiously desirous lo enter the channel of Japan, before the 20wh of May. But, thick iind constant fogs ; \«inds, if not nd verse, yet blow in;' i.bvays fuintly, and subsiding often into a dead calm ; vlolc'U cuirenls: and tides incessantly varying in tlitirdirtclion ; lenucied their course al^ig the north roast of China, %^ very difiicult, tlrat, without rclin- <|uishinx their pr" Ions arran^emtnts in respect 10 tint", ihcy could not make th;U minute n.iulical sur- vey of t)ic»c ptuls, which, for the interesln of navi. gallon, is very earnestly io be 'siied, Jn tlic ROUND THE WORLD. ^37 Pl- ubil. ti ill IVipc- inoro hcv I of unci itlm ; Ir >'» iilln- l \o Isuv* h vi- lli I course of lo or 12 days snilln^, only one day ^vas clear. On it, they saw an islet situate in 3:^" 45' N. Lat. in 121" 26' E. Lonp. But fop^s quickly obscured the sky nnew ; and they could not ascer- tain any thing concerning the position of tills isle in relation to the continent. On the igth of May, af- ter a fortnight of calms and fof^s, the horizon ex- panded around them for several leajrucs j the wind settling in the N. \V. began to blow with consider- able foicej but the sky continued to present still a dull, whitish aspect. 'I he French navigators now directed their course N. E. by E. towards the is- land of Qt^'ELPAERT. On the 21st, this isle appear- ed within tiieir view. A fair day enabled them to determine, from lunar observalion, that its position is in .^3° 14' N. Lnt. in 124" 13' E. Long. Its as- pect is exceedingly iniercsrlng : in the middle ot thia isle, towers up, to the elevation f f about lo-o tciscF, a j)eak which is visible at the distance of 18 or 20 leagues : from the decks, with the aid of their per- ^pcctive glasses, our voyagers could discern the fields ro be even minutely subdivided by iixlo'.ures : the luxuriant crops, and the varying culouis of cil- livation, likewise met and dclighrcd the eye, Un this isle, at that time under the dominion of the King of CoRKA, Wis wrecked, in the year 1635, a Dutch ship, named the S^nrrGwhawi'. Its crew escaped the rage of (he billows, only to be doomed to perpetual lervltuue among the iniuiman pruplc, on whose shores they were c.»st. After a captivity of 1 8 year*, during which they had suftVred much cr«cl treatment, some of these unfortunate captives, L3 if I : >3S L y\ r E Y R O U S K ■* S VOYAGE rontrivrnf; to seize a baik, escaped in it to Japan, from which they made their way, first to Batavia, und afterwards to Anistcrdam. 'I"\vo tanoes were 'ten to come of! from tliis isle. But they \vere pro- i>.tl)]y s'^ni, rniher to watch, than to l);iil the French friqates : for ihcy came not up to th cm. Our voyao to 70 fathoms. Ii\ N. I. at. 35" ly I- I^oni^. 127*' 7' they fell in with the n)ost nortlu rn of a chxin of rocks, more than i ; le.iir>^>ts distant from the continent of Corea. Tlitir Li'iirinif i? ncaily N. K. ar.d S. W^ Chi the day fol- lowinc;, Coren apjjcared within view j a rani^e of .let r(»cks or jslers riinninj; aionj^ hef ore It, I wo leagues south irom these islets, the depth of the soundiiu"* was from ;d to ac f.ithoms, with a mud- tlv bottom. I he sun, pie.cint; thtou^h the foi;s, c- jtahltd thrm, I; ippily, ro take excellent oluervalions of lit; j.ilitiule iind longitude j ohservaUons of so much lh«; L> renter impoitaiire, because the I rsuits. dlifint'; their prosperity, as missionaries in the Chinese empitc, were the only unv communications persons that had, as yet, mndt conccrninjj the peo;jraphy or hydro^r.iphy of ll^esc parts, to the iniiahitants of Kurupc. In the ni^^ht of the 2 ah, the I'leuch na- vi^ators passed the btriM^;;ht of Corca. 'I'iie nl^ht WHS clear •, th': wi'ids blew with considerHblc hrisk- acss from the S. \V. unJ a j^ieat iwcllini^ of the sen cnme Irom the ni>rth Th jcy sailed on easi Iv l)ef( ore tlie \\\vA\ at the rate k>{ two hwts an hour ; wishin; ROUND THE WORLD. J39 n 15 y fol- L;e of 1 wo f tbr nuul- ili ins of so suits, til id« >y or its of \\ PR- risl;- lic Ren kforc to ascertain, after day-break, the accuracy of tliose observations wbicli they liad made during' the even- ing, thit they iniji[iit ^ive every requisite degree of correctness to their chart of tlie Strtiglit. They sounded every h.ilf hour. Having approached witl:- in 2 leagues of the roast of Corea, they then held on their course, in a ditection parallel toil. Corea is divided from japan by a channel i^ leagues broad j but mrrowcd, for a part of its extent, by groupes and reefs of rocks. On the tops of the mountains of Corea, were seen f )rtresscs perfectly similar to those of Europe. The adjacent country is barren and hilly j and unmclted heaps of snow were per- ceived in certain pits and nullies among the anprnlar functions of the hills. Yi t, the dwellings are nu- merous. Frequent jutikt or .\hainf>nn\^ with matted sails, like those of China, v/cre observed sailing on the coast. Some boats came out, apparently for the purpose of examining ih" appearance and the move- ments of the French trigatcs j but returned inU port, without hiving come iulliciently near, to hold any converse with them. The 26th proved one of the finest days whiiii our navigators expcriencfd in their whole voyage ; yet the mercury in the baro- meter subsided to 27 inches and 10 lines. At mid- uight, the wind nltereJ from S. to iN. it blew, ira- mediately after the change, with considerable vio- lence \ the sky became black and dark \ an.l it be- came necessary for the frigiites to alter their cour-.e to a farther distance fiom the shore, than that at which they had for some time sailed. The o\\\f Lxcboding indicatiun which nature Kud given uf 1/p LA PEYROUSE'S voyage this change, consisted in torrid vapours, such as might have issued from the mouth of an oven, v^hich were felt by the men at the mnsthead, passing, as it were, in so many puffs of wind, each succeeding another, after an interval of half a minute. On the 27th, the frigates approached to within ^ leagues of the continent ; and, in spite of the violence of the north wind, they were able to giin a little to the northward *, while the coast of Corea was seen to bend away before them, to the N. N. W. M. de la Peyrouse now judged it necessary to direct his course towards the S. W. point of the Isle of Ni- PHoN. The e:rfclpItous elevation, encircles its v.licle cut- line, ('\ccpt only seven small sandy crcr,k«, wliich ;;re accessible to boats. Tiom the very i)rink of tbe shore to its extreme height, it is overerown witli tnll stately trees, fltreJ to furnish tbe most t.\ccl- lent timber. In the cretks, onr navigators s■^\v )me I lUHtS ( .f CI iincse consiiuction, o'l t e sto ch. 'riity supposed, that the workmen mi:;ht pro!)ably have lied into the wooJs, at their approach. Oihcr woikmen were sen by them, upjn tnrr.ing rourd a po iut, to lice into the woods fiom a second dock yard. Had not the opposiiion of strong currents prevented j M. de la I'ty rouse would gladly have gone on shore, to explore t!ie isle, and to convirce those pood p^ople that they had noihiog to Icar tiom the V rencii On the 30th of INIav, favoured by the winds now fixed at 8, S. E., M. dt la Ptyronsc cndeavcuied to approach the coast of Japan. But, the co.Urariety of the winds rendered the attempt so d;rti:ult j that nothing but its extreme importance could h:»vc hin- dered him fio:n abandoninp; it almost immediately. On the 2d of June, in 37" 3b' N. Lat. in 132" 10' ]i. Lonj^r, two Japanese vessels passed within sight of them \ one of these, so near, that they could dis- tinctly muik the appearances of things on her decks. Her crew, consisting of twenty men, wore blue gar- ments made in the fashion of c.i?8oek» : She mi;;ht be of about nn hundred tons buithen : bhe liad a 'Kl siniric mus t, which seemed to be formed of a num< ixT of smaller ma«t trees, united by means of c np. I't-r hoops and wool lings : Her y*\l was linen, with ! ' J^l LA PEYROUSE'S voyage ri A Ml 11 ' its breadths not sewed, but laced together ; very large ; and accompanied with two Jil's and a s/>r/f- sa.7 : A small gallery, three feet br )ad, projected from each side of tlie vessel ; and extended, for a- bout two-thirds of her length, from the stern, along the fJi/n wn/e : She had, on her stern, projecting beams, which were painted grtm : The boat placed athwart her ^r/;i'i, exceeded, by seven or eight feet, the breadth of the vessel. It is probable, that such vessels as tht se arc intended only for .sailing on the coasts, and in the faii'fst season of the year j and that the Japanese have stouter vessels for braving the wintry storms, in more distant seas. So near did the French nnvit^itor* pass to tins ve^^sel, that they could remark the expresiion in the countenances of the persons on her decks : It iKJicatcd neither fear nor astonishment. The Frenchmen hailed her, as ihe passed ♦, nnj the Japanese failed not to make answer. But, their languagis were nciprocally unknown j so that mutual converse was impossible between them. The Japanese vessel had a small white fl«g, on which were some words written verti- cally. Its name w^s on a sort of diu.n which stood beside the cn^ign-stafT. On the morning of the 4th of June, in 133° 17' JL. Long, in 37" 13' N. Lat. the French voyage, s imagint'd, with sduiu uncertainty, that they saw land; But the weather was dark and stormy : I'ijeir ho- rizon was contacted within n (juarter of a league ; and the uinds blew with a violence which made it impossible for them to halt, till they miglit iijccr- tain whether it ^^crc indeed land thul they had seen ROUND THE WORLD. M3 land : ho- ;ac ', |c it [cer- In the course of this day, no fewer than seven Chi- nese vessels, masted like the Jjpantse bark above describv-d, but of a structure better adapted to strug- gle with stormy teas, passed within sight of the Trench frigates. I hey had, every one, three black bands in the concave part of the sail j were each of about thirty or forty tons burthen j and had crews of eight men, each. 1 hey ran cLse to the wind, with their larboard tacki on board , aiid tin ir heads to the W. :>. \V. On the 6th of June, our nnvlgators arrived with- in sight of Cafe No ro and the island of Jootsisima, which are parted by a channel about five leagues in wideness. They were six leagues from land : but, the clearness of the weather enabled them to dis- tinguish the trees, rivers, and hollows upon it. Rocky i*c'lves to the eyes. Within four leagues of tlie land, bottom was found under an iiunditd and eighty fathoms depth of wa- ter. A league tVom the shore, the deptli of the water was stdl eighty four fathjms. No vestiges of culture, or of human habitation, were to be seen upon thii coast. Trees and verdure covered the sid'js of the mountains : on ihe fiumniits appeareil snow in inconsiderable quantity. Hoping to find ROUND THE WORLD. M5 27 our hich Its ilie |ains, fi 1 St ves. l)Lind \va- the Iseen ihe In ml more convenient anchorlnsf ground ; tlie French voy- agers did not halt here to examine the oast, but held on their course j sailing in the finest weather, and under the most serene skies they had known, since their departure from Europe. On the 1 2th, the i^th, the 14th, they continued to make their nautical and astronomical observations with the greatest success. On the evening of the 14th, they were becalmed and involved in a thick fog, in the latitude of 44" N. Here have geographers hither- to fixed their pretended Streight of Te^soy. Kut, our navigators were now 3" of Long, farther westward than the longitude assigned. 3" are, therefore, to be here cut off from the continent of Tartary, and to be added to the channel between Tartary and the islands northern from Jap^n. This abscission from the continent, and this expansion of the channel, will, of course, annihilate the Streicht of Tessoy, The 15th and the i6th were obscured with fogs. On the 16th, the fogs presented themselves in the illusive forms of mountains, precipitous vales, tor- r<:nt-vvorn channels, and all the appearances of a continent, or island j from which they vvere, for some hours, induced to fancy, that they had at last ca- tered tie streight of Tessoy. But, as evening came on, they saw this fancied land to vanish away. It was soon emlrely d:'>persed in airj and not a racl: remained behind. On the 17th, i8th, 19th, they were still surrounded by fogs j and in this state, could not venture to proceed, with any degree of celerity. In N. Lat. 44" 45', M. de Monti went, in a boat, from on board tic Astrolabe, to explore IVX ^^ LA F L V R O I' S n S V (1 Y A V. V. ! i| a bay ulilcli tliey isaw open before tliem, ami in which they had hopes of finding shelter. In that bay, he found, at two Icaorucs distance from land, an huiuiiid and foity fatlioms depth of nater. A 'luaitt-T v.'i A len'i'.e from the shore, the depth was forty or f;lty fall:cms. 'I'l:e fritrates approached t!ic shore. Ijiit, thick. i();7r> made it a^ain necessary for them to stcnd ofi\ for fear ofruni^in;? into unseen dan- gers. About 8 oVloc k ne.\t morning, they discern- ed a dat-topped mountain, to which, that it mi^ht be rccojlent. Nothing was to be seen, that could licspcak the coast to have been ever occupied liy human In- liabitfinls. On the 2j^d, our voyagers entered a bay in 4," 13' N. Lat. 1, 9' K. Lonof, In which they found, at a cable's length from the shore, ri sandv bottom, uuvlcr m\ fathoms water. The tide rises in this bay f.vc fiet. It Is hi^h water at Jull \\\\i\ change ^ atShour^, 15 minutes. 'I'he llu\ and reflux, do not alter the direction of the current, at the distance of half a league from the shore. To the bav, our navi''ators f:ave the r.ame of li,viE on TERNAr. Since they left Man'lla, they iiad not bee n oil land. These coasts a'or.e had not been before illus- tiatcd bv the dlscoveiics of Cook. Thev wore iherefoie imoaticnt to land, for the purposes of both discovery and refreshment, V ve sm ill ctciks f.vm the outline of tliis bay or rQucLtnuL Hills, over- ROUND THE ^VORLn. U7 uni :re |vm r- j:;rown with trees, part those from one another. AH the shades of llvtly green variegate the trees and tlic herb- age. Bears and stags were ssen from the shins to wan- der quietly alon ; the sea-shore. Roses, red and yellow liUies, all the meadow-flowers of I'rancc, Tverc seen by our navigators after they landed, to enamel, in rich profusion, the plains, declivities, and Vules. Pines covered the summits of the mountains : half way d'jwn, were o:iks, ot which the «•!/,€ and strength diminished, as the descent approached the sea- shore : willo\vs, birches, ra-ij)lc>, bordered the ri- vers and rivulets. On the si<.Irts of the forests, were apple and medlar trees, with clumps of hazles. Traces of tlie visits, if not of the permanent liabi- tatioti, of men, were every where to be slvmi. Some plfices displayed the remains of ravages by- fire. And in a corner of the wood, were observed some sheds which must have been erected by hun- ters. Baskets, fr.imed of the bark of the birch-tree, and rackets for walking on snow, lay, here and there, scattered about. A shooting-party cime, in three boats, from the two frigates. Three young- fawns were the only animals they slew, Tlie long- grass, and the danger from venomous reptiles, which might lurk in it, making it impossible for them to proceed far inwards through the country j they were, in a manner, confined to the sandy fl;its on the sea shore. Impelled by their passion for hunting, M, de Langle, with some other olhccrs, and some of the naturalists, endcr4voarcd, with lit- tle success, to penetrate through tlic morasses and forests, liut, the grass and tmderwood were still M 2 I 148 LA PEYROUSe's voyage inaccessible : Nor would the bears and stags pre- sent themselves to their eager pursuers. In fishing, these voyagers were more successful. Cod-fishes, hari)-fishcs, trouts, salmons, plaice, herrings, were taken with the utmost ease, and in the greatest a- bundance. Vegetables, such as nature presented in profusion, on the shore, being aJded to these j some very wholesome and delicious meals were thus furnished out to the ships' companies. Amidst their fihing, they discovered, on the bank of a ri- vulet, a 'i'artarlan tomb standing bes'de the ruins of a small house, which were well nigh buried in t})e grass. Curiosity prompted them to open this repos tory. In it, lay the bodies of two persons, side by side. The heads were covered, each with an under cap of tafTota : The bodies were wrapped in bear's skins, which were fastened round them "with a girdle of the sane : From the girdle were suspended several dilTerent copper trinkets, and some small Cliinese coins : Blae beads were scat- tered within the tomb : There were also ten or twelve different sorts of silver bracelets, weighing each ten penny-weights : And these, our voyagers afterwards learned to be pendants for the ears. A small blue nankeen bag, filled with rice ; a comb, a wooden spoon, an axe, a knife, a hatchet of i- ron, were likewise among the articles witli which this tomb was garnished. None of all thtse things was, as yet, in a state of decor:i|)osition. The itvucturc of the tomb was, a small hut, liaving its walls formed of the trunks of trees, and covered a» bove.wilh the bark of the birch-tree. Larcful not to ROUND THE WORLD. M9 violate this repository of the remnins or t'-c deceas- ed j tlic French strangers religiously restored every article to its former situation, after they had exa- mined it ; and then covered up the tomb, as it vvas before. The articles of Chinese manufacture bespeak these Tartars to have a regular intercourse with China. From the presence of the bag of rice In the tomb, it may be inferred that they believe the dead to survive the close of the present life, and to remain subject, in the world of spirits, to those bodily wants- v/hich they experienced in their human existence. The plants were here the same as In France, at least, without any variation very Interesting to botany. Slate, quartz, jasper, violet porphyry, small crystals, amygdaloid, were the mineralogicul specimens pre- sented in the beds of the rivers. Iron ore appears here, only as an oxyde, the colouring matter of dif- ferent stones : No other metals, in any form, could be here discovered. Ravens, turtle-doves, quails, •ivag-tails, swallows, llycatcliers, albatrosses, gulls, jjutlins, bitterns, wild-ducks, were the land and sea- fowls which the French voyagers observed on this coast. Broken mussel-shells, bernacles, snail-shells, pnrpurye, were the only specimens of c^nchology seen on the beach, lieing the first European visi- tors of these shores, I\I. de la Peyrousc and his companions would not leave the scene, without de- positing in the earth various medals brought from France for such uses, as well as a bottle inclosing an inscription of the date of their arrival. On the morning of the i:7th, they again set sail j and proceeded before a soutli wind, at the distance IM 3 In) ' t il ^SO LA PEYROUSe's voyage of two-tliirds of a league from the coast, distinguish- ing, as they went along, even the mouth of every small rivuit't. About- 1 I oVlbck in the evening of the 29th the wiiul shifted to the north j and they were obh'ged to mal-e a tack east^vard. They were now in 46" I)G' N. Lat. The coast, which they still saw- through fogs was now lower *, and the land was di- vided into hills of moderate height. On the ist of July, being Involved in a thick fog, so near to land that they could liear the breaking of the surf upon the sliore •, they were obliged to cast anchor in thir- ty fatiioms »'cpth of water, uith a bottom of brcjken jilulls anvl mud. Fogs conllnuid till the tth, to hin- der their observations. Lat they h;ul, in the mean lime, the consolation of taking a gnat quantity of cod-fishes and oyst( rs, which very agreeably diver- sified the provision of their tables. A great bay, into which a river, fifteen or twenty fathoms broad, %vas fccen to disembogue its waters, opened befoie our na\igitor8 on the moriiing of the 4th of July, A boat from each frigate was immediately sent to examine it. The t« eniiorv on the coast was found to be nearly the same as that at the Jiaic tf' Ternai. Vestiges .ppcarcd, which bespoke this scene to have )een rcxMulv visi itcd b y some wandering hunt em. Jiianchtscut from the ti es, with some sharppoint- td instruments, hiy on thj ground, with their leaves $lil) uiivvithei«.d. By the siilc of a small cabin were two elk-skins, skilfully stretched out to dry, upon small piece* of wood. 1 he cabin or hut beside vhich these were found, had evciy I'ppeaiance of being a temporary abode fur hunters. Our voya.. ROUND THE WORLD. »i« mun liide ic of )va» gers took away one of the elk-skins, but left, in- stead of it, hatchets and other iron instru .'•"•its, much more valuable, as they believed, to its own- ers. The boats returned. The name of Baie de SuFFREiN was imposed on this bay by our navigators. Since it presented nothing particularly interesting, to invite their stay, they soon renewed their course, and still advanced to the northward. The Baie de Suffrcin is situate in 47*^ ^\' N. Lat. in 137" 23' £. Long. Advancing along the coast, they made occasional use of the dnavrt y and procured with it a variety of oysters, and other siiell fishes. To the oysters were often attached that little bivalve shell fi'^h, which the French name poulcit,\ and which, on the coasts of Europe, is often fount! in a otate of petrifaction. Large whelks, '.ea-hedgehogs of the common son, sta»"fislics, holoihuiiu.', and very small pieces o f beautiful coral, were also among the captures with the tiiu'tlge, "I'urning their course gradually from the coast of Taitary, they now strove to cross the channel, towards where geographers had taught them to expert to find the lands of Jf.sso and Ok,u J i;sso. i^ rcccedini: wi ih thi IS view, they soon disco« vercd an island, apparently of great extent, which formed with Tnrtary an opening of 30". They weic then in 40" 3 li' N. N. Lat. I'hey next direct- ed their CiAirse to tho S. K. This eastern land, ve- ry diti'erent in its aspect from Tartar^, exhibited to view .lou^ht but bairen rocks, with pits of ttnow, and having ftn apparen :ly volci iintc clur.icter. I'D the iuiuvsi oi ihcii' .umuutHf M* dv 1« I'eyroui^ \i 152 J.A pevrouse's voyage i gave the name ot Peak. Lamanon, in compliment to M. Lamanon, who, in the character of a mineralo- gist, accompanied the expedition. Fogs and obsti- nate southerly winds, exceedingly incommoded our voyagers, in the n ivigation ot the channel. At noon, on the 11th, the weather cleared up •, and a very extensive horizon immediately opened around them. On the evenini; of the 12th of July, the southern breezes dying away, permitted them to ap- proacli the land, bonie islanders were seen runnin-.j from the shore, to liide themselves in the woods. Without delay, one of the commanders, with some of the uincipal persons from on hoard both frigates, went on shore in the boats. On the sliore, thev quickly came to two small houses which seemed to have been but newly abandoned by tlicir inhabi- tants •, for the fires were not extinguished, the furni- ture remained, and there was a })lind litter of pup- pies, whose dam w;is heard to bark for tliem, from the woods, Tl.*: French navigators benignant ly de- posited several iialchcts and ulher instruments of i- lon, with glass-beads, and various other articles, for presents to conciliate the good-Nviil of the people when they should venture to return from the woods. The great net or seine wn% then hauled, and nt once" were taken more salmons t'oan might have sullicrd lor the consumption of the shipk' companies during .1 whole week. Our voyagcis were about to return on board their ships, wlicn seven of the nativei were '>(-en to land fiom a cnnue un the shore, and to come up, without fear or wonder, into the very midst of the ittangeri. Among these seven, wcic two old men Wl th< ed on he: sini of to boo t]u wi ! : stiil thci sort shor O Pcyi 1 pipc< Chin ■I 11 ROUND THK WORLD. i;3 with lonq white beards, clothed in a stuff made of the bark of trees. Tuo wore dresses of bhie quilt- ed nankeen. Others had only a Icnjj robe, fastened on tiie body with a girdle and a few buttons. Their heads wtre bare, except that two or three wore a simple band of bear's skin I'he face and the crown of the head were shaven. Tlie hair behind, was cut to tlie length of ten or twelve inches. 'I'hey wore boots of seal-skin, skilfully foimed and sewed,' aflci liows, pikes, arrows tipped the Lhintse )n. Willi 1 on, were icir arms. '11 leir manners wcie stiikingly dignified an I solimn To the eldct, there was gre.it reverence sliown by the rest. A sort of mutu'.il engagement to meet ne.\tday on the shore, passed between them and M. de Langle. On the following dav, tlie Ticnch with M. dc la Pcyrou*.c himself at their head, repaired again on shore. 'I'hc following is the general result of all tlieir observations upon the country and its inhabi- tants. 'Ih cy were soon n\et, in the crec :k. b' one and twenty of the natives. Presents, especially of iron and stuffs, Wfrc offered atid accepted by the AATARS, at th c very opening o f th e intcrviitw. These undcv.cood, as well as the Trench, the value and the diversities ot the me'alsj preferring silver to cojipcr, copper to ircn, &c. 'I'bree or four of tiicm liad pendent earrings of siilver, nd')rneu "ith blue ghisoocads similar to those which had beeti discovered in the tomb at the Raie Dt: I'cknaik. Their other ornaments were of copper. Ihc) had pipe*, and steels to strike fire with, which secmi d of Chinese or Japanese manufacture. By signs, they 1' i 154 LA P i: Y R D r S E Vs V O T A (. n informed the French, that tlielr blue nankeen, their beads, and their steels, were procured frcni th.: western country of the Mantchou 'f'lrtars. Observ- ing the Frenchmen to hold in Intir hands, paper with a pencil, to write upon it : 'J hey guessed the Intention, and, witli a benignant attention, endea- voured, of their own accord, assiduously to explain whatever objects thty supposed the strangeis niigiit be the most curious to be informed about. I'hcy seemed sutTicIentlv desirous to obtain hatchets and «tufis. But, they maintained, in all their inter, course witli the I'rench, a dignity and sanctity of manners fir superior to nny indications of rapacious wvidiiy, and to every, even the most trivial act of theft. Not a sing'e salmon would they pick up, without permission, from anion/: thousands, the pro- duce of the fisliing of the French, which lay scat- tered on the beach. Undcrstinding, that the stran- gers desired to obtain from thera, descrlplions of their own country, and of Mantchou Tartary •, they sketched, on the ground,— -and even, witli the pen- cllfi of our nav'gators, upon p.vaters into t'nc channel between Ttrt iry and Tchoka, in a position somcwlutt southward from the most northern point of the opposite isle ol R O U N n THE W O K L D. ^SS Tclioka. From itul'catlors xvhicli these people communicated, the French naviiritors inferred the iTi'^st northern extrennity of the isle of Tchoka, to extend about sixty-three leajiues to the nortl\u;ird of the station in vvliich their ships then lay ;tt anchor. Ey the same sajracious and communicative savaj^cs, our voyagers ncre miornicc d, that, t o vdcure t! le foreign commodities which they ivore, tiie'~.e sava- jrts were wont to s^il for a certain lonc'th up the river i:icf.^alien, and there to meet th-j Tartars, by tratlickincj with whom they obtained tlitse articles of imjiortaiion. All this information v^ as, unavoid- ably, to a i\\ti:t dc'frec, unrcrtun. liut, such as it w IS, it sutli dently merited the atlention of M. dc la Pcyrouse and his compauions. A Lorn was pro- ( Lireil from these peojil.', which ^hevrd uii;it pro- «;rcss they had made in the manul'.a'ture of clolh. It nearly rcscmlded tho^e of Eiuojk*. Cl)th of the i).vk of the willow-trev is woven in such lo ms, wilh a shujit'^ by the inhabU.'!;t^ of Tchok i. They ('\amincd, vsitli a s.^ij^cious >. itulVs wlii( li w rrc p • i'>irY, the texture of \ lie I'lonca rcsemb and secmrd to I. id ti il v.isi Jcri 1 icin l)V the h <)\v tar It led, or d.il ere 'fi. th.it if their < )wn uKi- imtacturc. Ih cv f.iil not to nvail I iW.X C'.dtivate the i^round ; ytt, nsclvf^i .»t vs s^i.jnlancous pro- duce. In theii huts v vxc iVurul nvr.iy root-. <>f tlic yellow lily or \i:rontiJt of K ■.mwlir.tka, which they a;»peared to have *lritd tor their win;i i'> priiviilun j ;•>; rtbo the roots (♦f ^krli »v Ami of :i!i:;;*4.c.». Of thv form of i^'ovrmratnt, ojr v A4,crs c«.'ul I di^ cover, duiin^ thtir sUuit vtv., on'y ilw: th''y iicat ti6 LA FEYROUSES VOYAGE their olil men with a respect whicli seems to confer upon them all the authority of patriarchs. Their stature docs not commonly exceed five feet five in- ches : Their countenances present recjulir features, and an a_ijreeable eKpres>i ion Ihe ir perso n I 1 fi ^ ure is stout and handsomely projiurhoned. They per- mitted the French to draw their pictures j but, would not suffer them to measure the dimensions of their bodies. Perhaps, they mij^^ht look upon the proposal to measure them, as an attempt to make them the subjects of some ma;^ical opeiiition. Their women, they kept carefully hid from the sight of the strangers. Our voyagers couKl purchase from them no mure than two marten-skins. A few skins of bears and seals were seen, fashioned into clothes. Each of them wore on his thumb a large ring made of ivory, horn, or lead. Like the Chinese, they preserve their naiU on their fingers to a great length : Like them, they salute by kneeling and prostrating themselves on the ground : They likewise sit on mats, and cat with small sticks. Tliiy may perhaps be a colony of Chinese oiigln, whose aiicestors have w.mderc J hither, at some very remote ;i:ra in ancient times, Am->ngtheni, the French vo)agers met with two Mantchuu 'lartais, who had come liither for some commerc purp ighi wecki bel"ure. These men readily conver'.ed with ♦ he Chinese sailors b.lon:;ing to the French fiigatcs. Their jraimcnls were of grey nankeen, like tho>e of \\\K coq/U's ox itrct't /xii'tcvt of INlacao. Their hats were of bark, and po'nlcd. They wore the Chi- msc /><•/// j(t or tuft of hair. 'I hey reported tlicii %.CjhSD THE \V O R L D. iJT rtli: Ins on i.\lis uive lent with for liiee wiih c of lints Chi- ilicir dvvellinqs to he elj^ht days journey up the river oc- galien. From their repoits, as well ns from other circumstances, J\I. dt la Peyroiise was Kd to infer the coast of this part of Asia to be almo>t citiie'.y uninhabited, from the limits of Corea in tiie 42^^ N. Lat. ns far as to ilie river ScTalien in the 53" ^^' S-i^ ^' ^'^^' ^^'^ cabins or huis of the ir.habitants of Tchoka. are of wood j ovjr thi<, u covering of the bark of the birch tree j then, a co- verincr of timber \ above all, a thatcliing of dry .straw, similar to that on the cotta<;es of our pcasnnts: The door is in the _i;ablc-cnJ, and very low : The hearth is in tlie miildlc of the (loor, and lias a cor- rcsj)ondent opening in ih.e roof; Immediately around llie h.earth, arc little banks or lloors cf eartli, risint; ti^ht or ten iiiches hi;^,h : The wl)ole inside of the hut i< spread with nr.ts : 'Ihat cabin which served as the model of this description, stood amid a tliick- et of rose-trees : Thee «^lirubs were in ti.nver, and exhaled the mo^t delicious odours : JUit, these ► 1ii« nT.r.ir-r>m" liv t1i^ 'ter.cll ot Hsll-cil, were more t!ian icom; by ih and other putrid substances which filled the hut, and poisoned the air, all around it. It seemed cu- rious, that n bottle of sweet scented ^vatcr, wlicn presented to one of the old men, effected his sense of smelling vith a disjru«.t, at least ns strong as that with which the noisome smell of the Hsh-oll wa?: pciceivtd by the Trench. They had tobacco in hr'je leaves, and cf very o.ccllcnt (|uality j and thcv stcmed U) be eternal smokers : but snuH" they rould not endure. 'J'his bny was, in honour of I\I. ilc l,imr;lc, named the Baie dc LA>»JLEt N m ij8 LA P E Y P. O r S E ' S \' Y A G E I On the 14th of July, the signal for sailing was jilvcn •, and they prepared to leave this bay. Till the 19th, they \vcrc surrounded with perpetual foi^s. In the moininf^ of the 19th, they saw, athwart the mists, the land of Tchoka, from N. E, by N. as far as E. S. E. Havins continued to run alont;, till two oVlock in the afternoon, they then dropped anchor in water twenty fathoms deep, over a gravel- ly bottom, at the distance of two miles from the shore, ;uid westward from a fine bay. 1 he fog af, tcrwards dispersed ; and they were enabled to de- termine the bearings of the place where they had cast anchor. It is situated in 48" yj N. Lat. in 140" 32' E. Long. Tlicy named the bay, Laie d' Estaing. Their Ijoats went ashore, at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. About an hundred paces fro m the sea-shore, were found ten or twelve huts, con- structed of the same materials as the huts in the Baie de Tangle •, but Lir^er, and divided each into two apartments, of which the inner contained the furniture, and setmcd to be tlie ordinary abode of the family, while the other was entirely empty, and seemed to be a).).iH)priated for the reception of strnn- identally met by i^ers. Two of tiie women were ace the r rench olticers •, and were terribly alarmed at the rencounter. Sketches of their figure and coun- tcnnnce were, however, drawn bv ]\I. Elondela. 'V\\<\x eyes were small \ tliclr lips lar;;c ; the u lip, painted blue, or tattooed ; the 1 er fKS na PP ked -, the body, covered with a lonir linen -jhiu ; their hair, lank and uncurled , and the upper part of the liead nat s'.iavcd, as on the men, 'I'he islanders ROUND THE WOP. LI). J59 nt the first landing of tlie gentlemen from the French boats, were assembled round our c.inoes, which were laden with fishes dried in the smoke. The crews of the canoes were, as the Frenchmea •learned, Mantchou Tartars, who had come hithev from the banks of tlic river Set^alien, for the pur- pose of purchasing In trade, the dried fishes. Those • eographical details which our voyngers had obtain- cd a' the Dciie de I.angle^ were, by these people, confirmed. A scjrt of circus, surrounded with a p d isade of rude s'.akcs, was observed in one part of the territory adjacent to the huts. On the top of each stake was the skeleton of a bear's head •, and the bones of hears were scattered around the scene. The circus, and the trophies erected on its pallisade, Tnlpjit probably be intended to perpetuate tiie me- mory of atchicvements accomplished by these peo- ple In hunting the bear, with which, since they want fire-arms, they must, of necessity, contend in close fight. Salmons were found *:o be the most common prey of tliese people in t'lelr ilshing. Fhey dry the fish for sale to the IVIantchou Tartars j but take out and throw away the head, the tail, and the back-b'jnc. After loading the Tartais with pre- sents, the Frenchmen, at eight o'clock in the even- ing, returned on board their ships. Next day, — the :^olh, — the frigates renewed their voyage. They sailed along the coa<.t, at a league's distance from the land. A thick foj^ surrounding them about seven o'cltick in the eveninjiji they were i.uluced to cast anci.or in water thiity. seven faihoms deep, over ii bottom of mud and sm.iU tlat stones. The coa:>l: N 2 1 lOo LA ? E Y R O I' S i: ' S V O Y A C E I't %vas here more mountaip.ous : Neillier fire nor h jt tvas to be <:een ; 'i'en cod-fishes were caui^ht, the first our vovatjers ha J I'ouncI, since they left the co;\!.t of Tartnry. ]\I. de la Peyrouse concluded from tliis last incident, thrit they were no'.v not far distant h'om the Tartarian co.^st ', and he h.oped, that, keep- ing close to the coast of I'choka, he should soon be able to reach tliat streijjht, the existence of whlcii he had conf.dently inferred from the information of tlie islanders. The friit^atcs, theiefure, sailed o:j, never at a greater dictance than two lengues from the island. As soon as the fogs cleared up, our navigators had a perfect view of the channel. In the latituile of 30'"* it grcn' narrower, till it was at last contracted to the small expanse of thirty leagues. In the evening of the 2 2d, they ca>t anchor in thir- ty-seven fathoms water, with a muddy bottom, and at about a league's distance from land. 'I his an- chorage was o:iprj».ite to the mouth of a small river, three leagues north from whicii, appsared a very re- markable peak, whicii had its base on the sea-shore, and, on whatever side it might be seen, presented still the mo-t petfcct regularity of form at its sum- jTiit. Its sides weie richly covered witli trees and verdure. In conrpliment to the botanist c " the voyage, M. de l:i Peyrouse named it, Pi;ak la Mah- TiMERE. it was thoUf^ht proper, here, to send boats ashore, for the purpose of ascertaining whether thi.s part of the coast were inhabittd. iM. de Clonaid ^vent wit h f< our armeu Siiins. r o t'.i'j sur;irue in those who had remained behind in tlir lips, he re- turr.cd in ihc evening with all the bojls filled witU ROUND THE WORLD. lOr k1 lis lis .d e- salmons. He had landed at the moutli of a rivulet, not exceeding four fathoms in breadth, nor a foot in denth. Its bed was so entirelv covered with salmons, that the sailors, ^vlth their sticks, killed, in an hour, twelve hundred of them. Only two or three deserted huts were to be seen. Three trees v.-ere of larger dimensions, than in the more south- ern bays : Celery and cresses grew, in abundance, on the banks of the rivulet : Juniper- berries grew around, in immense profusion. The French bota- iilsts made here an ample collection of rare plants. Crystallized spars, and other curious stones, but no metallic ores, were brought away by the mineralo- gists. Firs, willows, oaks, maples, birclies, and medlar-trees, fill the forests. Gooseberries, straw- berries, and rasp. berries, were likewise amazingly plentiful. Cod-fishes were, at the same time, taken in great numbers, by those who had remained on board the ships. To the rivulet which had aftord- td such plenty of salmons, Pvl. de 1a Pcyrousc gave the name of i>AL^Io^'•D■^.oo^.. .-Renewing their voyage, ihey s:iiled along, as be- fore, at a small distance from the shore of the isle. On the 23d, they were in 3:," 54' N. Lat. and near- ly in the longitude Ij' whicij, from the Baic de Lnn- ^:i\ t" ey had, without /ariation, sailed. A few huts .ippearing here «nd there, upon the shore, indicated this part of the isle to l)e not destitute of inhabitants. A bay, which was observed in the last mentioned latiuiJe, rcct-Ived from our navigators the name of Baic dk la JoNQjJiLP.E, but did HOt appear to merit that they shculd particulnrly exploie it. They .Vwrc li IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 If 1^ 1^ I.I 1.25 2.0 It hi 1.4 <^ 0%1 /] '^^^' ^> A y /A Photographic Sciences CorpoRition 33 WW7 " IH 5T«|iT WIHilfR NY M!iO i/.JL ^ l62 LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGi; ) now extremely impatient to ascertain, whether or not the pr^-tended Strtij^ht of ri.sso'/, were merely the streiyht dividin? the island of Tchoka iVoin the; continental territory of the Pvlantchou Tartars. The .soundin^^s began, as they advanced, to be almost e- fjually shallow, at so. e considerable dibtance from the coast of '1 choka, as wlien the fr^ates were very near to that isle. On the 24lh, in the course ot three hours progrc-s, the depth of the water waj found to decrease from twenty four to eighteen fa- thoms. '1 h« attempt to obtain a greater dcpt'i, by steering westward touards the middle of the cha;> nel, proved fruitless. I\I. de la Peyrousc, upon thii, tletcrrnincd to traverse the whole channel twice,— from cast to west, and from west to ta>t, — in older tc' discover whsthcr there were not deeper water to be found in the progress northward •, and whether there "were not a particular channel, similar to that of a liver, for the streight. In the evening of the 26th, they came to anchor on the coast of 1 artary. Next day, they suilcd N. N. \L. towards tlvj middle of the channel j had both coasts in view at once j and found the depth to decie.isc, in the pro^^icss north- ward, at the rate of tnrce fathoms a league. M, de la Peyrousc was anxious to explore the streight still jnucli more thoroughly. Jhit the sjuthcrn winds previAilt'd in thi;^ channel, with such a settled mun* soon-like steadiness, and with such an ag'tating force upon the seas, that any attempt to advance much farther in this course to the northward, appeared likely to subjict the frigates to extreme danger of vtry eaib:irr.is8ing delay, or even of ihi^wvicck. ROUND THE WORLD. J2S- 'Vhe weather, too, began to become stormy, and the billows of the sea to roll more tempestuously, than they had hitherto done, in this channel. The ships could not, in these circunistances, hastily pro- ceed fartlicr. But Messrs Boutin and de Vaujuas, othcers C([ually distinguished for discernment and prudence, were sent out in the boats, to explore the channel, and to make the requisite soundings, to the •th nortnwar( M. Vaujua*!, who set off at o c luck. ^vas absent till midnight, lie sailed a league north- ward, beyond \vhich the state of the sea and the ncathtr would not permit him to proceed. At his firthcst distil nee from the fiigates, his soundings in- dicated only six fathoms depth of water. M. Bou- tin had returned before him, without ranking any discovery. Jmmcdiattly after the rctutn of M, dc Vaujuns, it was found necessary for the frigates to revert their course. At day- break, they weigh- ed anchor with much dilHcult toil, and with a break- ing of the £/7/»i7rt//;', by which three of the seamen were severely wounded. 'I'iie violence of the winds •nd the fury of the waves, '-judered their progress,, f.ir A short time, both laborious and diingerous. Some slight variations of the winils from b. to S. \V. and to 8. 8. K. soon took place, however, in a manner favourable to them j and, in twenty four hours, tluy n.adc five leagues. In the evening of the 28th, they fourti themselves at the opening of 1 b.»y on the cuavt of lartary. \\ ant of wood and water suggisted tlic piijpricty of here halting nnd going on shurc for sup|.lics. At five o'clock, they cast anchor nt the N. fuint uf this bay, in water c< J $. i()4 LA PEYROUSe's voyage levcn fathoms deep, with a muddy bottom. Boats were soon sent out : a 'I'artar village was descried •, cascades of limpid water were perceived •, and four wooded islets were observed to shelter a road, where the frigates might ride at anchor, in perfect securi- ty. At eight o'clock, on the next morning, the frigates were conducted to the bottom of the bay j and were brought to rest at anchor in water six fa- thoms deep, with a muddy bottom. CHAP ROUND THE W O R L D.^ l6s C II A P'llOK N I N I H. ^•;^RRATIVF. OF TMK VOYAGK CONTINUED, TROM THE 29. 01 JIM.V TO THE 6. OF SEPTtMBfcR 17^57. TRANSACTIONS AND DISCOVERIKS IN TUK H A IK DK CASTRIES. DISCOVK- KY OF A STRKIGHT DlVIUINt; JtSSO FROM OKU-JESSO. VOCAIiUI.ARY OF Till; LANOUAGE OF TCIIf-KA, NAMED BY TilK RUiihlAKS, SI,(JAI,ll.>f. COUR>iK TO K A ^^T .S<; II Al'K A, &C. So sooner were the frigates moored, than both the French commanders prepared to go on shore. They appointed the long-boat to take In water ; the barge, to bring tlie wood which was wanted, from the shore j the small boats, to be at the command of Messrs lilondcla, licllegarde, JMouton, licrnizet, and I'rc- vost junior, wiiilc they should make a survey of the bay ) thi yawls, which f:rew little ivatcr^ to be used in fiiliiiig salmons in a small river abounding with them ; the pinnaces to be ready for carrying themselves and the scientific gentlemen a-shore, to superintend the diftcient works, and to explore the territory conti* guous to the coast. The astronomical apparatus was, witiiout delay, set up, on an islet wiiich they niinud IsLu: de LH)nstRv.\TOiiMi \ and INIcsirs Da- gekt, Lauriiiton, and Darbaud, immtdiately applied thc'lI)^clves to make the requisite observations for the correction of ihcir timckecpcis, and for nsccr- Irtiiiing the dilVcrent bearings. 'I'hese observations suon shewed the present nnchoiage of the frigates to be bituttlc in 31" 26' N. Lat. in ly/ 41' li. Long. i66 LA P E y R O U S K ' S VOYAGE I! J The time of high-n ;iter, at full and change, was at ten O'clock : tlie ortatest rise: of the tide, at these periods, was for five feet el^ht inches above the or- diiiary level of the sea : the current ran at the rau of at least half a-knot :ui hour. The bottom of the bay Is muddy. Approaching the shore, the deptii of the water is j^raduaily dinu-iishcd from twelve to five fatho:Tis. To t'.irce ciihle- kn_i;ths from tlic shore, the coa^Jt is sutrou.u'td by a flat, v.hich nakes it diiHcult to land, even in a boat, when the fide is low. Extensive beds of ;)ea-weed;', too, a- xnnng which the water Is but two or three feet deep, oppose another troublesome obstacle to those who attempt to land from boats. But this bay affords certain shelter fiom the storms of wiiiter ; and tl;c French navigators thou.jht it to be, of all tliat tl.ey had visited on the Tartarian coast the only one that was truly worthy of the nunie of Buy, They nam- ed it, Eaie de Castries. Our voya;;;crs liad {\o sooner landed, th.in inter- views took place between tlum and the rude natives of the adjacent country, 'ii.c chief or patriarch of the horde, with some others of the iidiabltants, re- ceived IM. \\c la Peyr'juse upon tl.e L/e.ich, 'J hat venerable savage saluted the strangers by prostra- tion, accoiding to the L-hinese ctreniviuial , and tlien conuuclcd them to see his wife, his children, his daughters m law, and grand-daUghleis, in iiis hut. 'J lie I'lcncnmen were there invited to sit down on a m it which was respectfully >prcad for ihcm \ and to partake of a dish of grain witli salmon, whicn was made ready for their entertainment. ThcbC good the intcr- itives •ih of le- Ihat Dslra- tl\en n, ills luit. n on a miJ 10 l\ uus good ROUND THE WORLD. 167 people made their v'sltors to understand, tliat they were themselves of the nation of the Orotchys j and that some stranger 'I'artrirs, who had recently arrived in four canoes, were of the Bitchys j a tribe inhabiting at some not very considerable distance southward. The Orotchys inhabited a village, consisting of four cabins or huts, of a structure considerably solid and durable. Trunks of fir-trees, laid at full length, and neatly cut at the angles, formed the walls: A frame of not unskilful workmanship supported the roof: The roof was covered with the bark of trees. Within, there was, in the middle of the dwelling, the hearth with the fire, and corresponding to them, In the roof, a hole for the emission of the smoke : .roun d th( dl e walls were wooden ocncnes i here was no commendable degree of cleanliness to be re- marked here, any more than in the cabins on the island of Iclioka. Tiie four cabins were inhabited by as many dilTercnt families, which appeared to live toi'cther in urtat harmonv, and with the most KT feet, mu tual con fid ence. E ve ry hut was sur- rounded with a stage for the diying of salmons. These are first cleaned; then, for three or four days, smoked round the fire ; after this, put on the poles of the state, in the open air, and left to dry to the hardness of w(jod, in the heat of the sun. With such exalted, moral sanctity, do these good pecpk! rctpcct the distinctions of property *, that the 1 renchn-ivioators soon exposed their goods, unguard- ed, on the shore, in the midst uf the I'artar huts, with- out the smallest fear of theft, and without n single in- a68 LA VEYROUSe's voyage Stance of even the most trivial loss. The Orotchvs pursued the fishery in the river, at the same time with the French strangers. It was ^vith extreme disgust the Frenchmen beheld them eat, with the greatest avidity, in a raw state, the snout, the gills, the small bones, and the skin of the salmons, as they caught them. Of these parts, the salmons are usu- ally thus cleared by the fishers, in the catching. What of the skin in particular, remains \vhen iishes are brought to the houses, is very eagerly sought out, and devoured raw, by the women. Those rings which the inhabitants of Tchoka Avere observed to ivea*" on the thumb, arc intended for the protection of the thumb while the salmons are stripped with a sharp knife, the edge of which often strikes against the ring. Beside the huts which stood at the very landing-place where the French navigators canu- rshore •, they sav/, on the opposite side of the bay, unother village, consisting of eight huts, situate :it the edge of a wood. At a small distance above tb/is last village, were perceived tliree Yourts or sub- terraneous houses, having an exact similarity to those of Kamtscliatka, which are described by Coor. Contiguous to the village, were observed several tombs of a structure superior to that of the houses. Uows, arrows, fishlv.g- lines, and in general whatever fs most precious among the possesions of these peo- ple, appear to be deposited with the dead bodies ii the tombs. \\'ithin each monument, were llr.ce t.r four biers of not Inek'gant workmanship, ornament- ed with brocades, ai.d otVicv Chinese itufllj. Al- ROUND THE WOULD. 169 tnougli this village seemed to be but a temporary winter abode j yet the houses were filled with the dresses and Implements of the people •, skins, snow- shoes, bows, arrows, pikes, Sx.c. These generous- minded savage?, without alarm, saw, from the oppo- site si ie of the gulpli, while the French entered their dwell'ngs, and even descended into their tombs. The French, knowing and reverencing this noble- minded confidence of iheir hosts, scrupulously with- held tlieir hands horn injuring or carrying off the smallest of those articles which they were thus un- mistrusrfully permitted to examine. These people ate also wont to pull up and to dry for use, as win- tt-r'fuod, the roots of llie saranna, and some other plants. The bodies of the poorer dead are exposed on biers in the open air, on a st;i^e of some eleva- tion, with their dresses and Imidements of huntintif an d fisl iinjr. luntr aroun d th eiTJ, Tl lere appc arcd no reason for thinking that these hordts owned any other form of government than the simply natural rind patr'archal. They are a feeble incL' •, and their features are remaikably different from all those forms to which we are wont to attach the idea of beauty. M'he middle stnture amon;: them, rises not to four feet t en incites 'i heir bodies are lank ; iheir voice ^ thin and faint, as those of children j their cheek- bones, high J their eyes, small, bleared, and stand- Ji'lT ,? di It! iiyona lly in tl IC bOCuCtS. Thv lave tl le moutn, large the ncsr, llat j the chin, shoit, and nlmost beardless j thtir skin, of an olive colour, ani sutHcIently varnlslied wiih smoke and oil. Both men and women sulVcr the haii 10 ^rjw lo a great O I 170 LA PEYROUSe's voyage length : The men binding it up, as is common a- mong us ; the women wearing theirs loose upon the shoulders. The labours of the women are confined to the cutting and sewing of clothes for themselves and the men, the management of their children, the curing of fishes for winter stores. The children are, to the age of thrte or four years, suckled at the breast. The women appeared to enjoy considerable influence over all the transactions of the men. No bargains would the latter conclude with their French visitants, without having first obtained the consent of their wives. The copper trinkets, and the pen- dent silver ear-rings, are, properly, the ornaments of the wives and daughters. A w;iistcoat of nankeen, or of dog-skin, or fish-skin, cut Into the shape of a vaggoner's frock, is the common dress of the men and boys. When this garment reaches below the knees, no drawers are worn with it. If the waist- coat be shorter, drawers, in the Chinese fashion, and reaching so low as to the calf of the leg, are In this case, worn. In winter, they wear, all, seal-skin boots. At all times, and of whatever age, they wear a leathern girdle, from which are suspended — n small bag with tobacco, a steel to strike fire, and a knife in a sheath. The women, differing somewhat in dress from the men, wrap themselves in a large nankeen roke, or in a robe of salmon's skin, tanned vith a skill that miikt's it very fit for this use. The salmons, of which the skins are thus tnnticd, are taken only in winter, and wcjgh from thirty to forty pounds. The robe reaches to the ancle-bone, and is there bordered with a fringe of small copper or- ROUND THE WORLD. in mned The , nre forty . and naments. Of the religion of this people, no monu- ments nor Indications could be discovered by the French navi;^ators, except some rudely carved fi- gures of children, arms, hands, legj; which were sus- pended from the roofs of the huts, and greatly re- sembled the votive offerings at the Roman Catholic chapels. 'I'hey seemed to look upon their French visitants as so'^cerers j so that they muse have some notions of a malignant, supernatural power, which may be cammunicated and exorcised for the purpose of injuring manltind. Instead of grasping greedily at the presents which were offered to them ', they rather shewed a delicate and high-spliited reluct- ance to accept such presents. They seemed to expect them to be offered with a respectful polite- ness, such as might not humble and wound the spirits of the receivers. Gifts ollered to their children, gave infinitely greater delight to the parents, ihaa such as were presented to themselves. M. de la Pcyrouse, caressing two little children in one of the huts, gave them, in the presence of their parents, a piece of rose-coloured nanlveen : The father imme- diately going out, returned with his most beautiful dog, and intreated the French commander to accept him : When M. de la Peyrouse refused the present j the father made his children, who had received the nankeen, to put their hands upon the dog, and to beg their benefactor to taki.* him. This little tran- saction indicates a tenderness and generosity of sen- timent, such as could nut eas ly be excelled by the viitues of a civliixed people. lluir dogs, — the wolf dog, — arc of middle sue, very stronnj^ very O 2 i I di k V .|-'5J I I till 1 III 172 LA P L Y R U S L ■' S VOYAGE I «.^cnTl£ and docile, and apt to be yoked, like these ot Kamtschatka, in small, li'>nt sledpes. From the 5.tvan;^cr Bitchys whom the French navigators here found tradl'ig with the OR'rrrfi^s, iiiforniation v/as oblhir.cd, t'lat the strci^xht between the Tartariiu continent and the island of Tdioka, beccunrs, at length, in a b>.uati..ri considerably noithvvard from that whence the French fiigates had reverted their course, a dry sandy lanh^ absolutely without water. x\fter this, M. de la Feyrouse abandoned every de- sign w'ith respect to this gulph, save that of explor- iniir the southern liraits of the island of Tchoka. The naturalists, in the mean time, were assiduous in the study of the mineralogy of the coasts and the tblets of the Bale de Castles. The islets are com- posed of trapp, g'ey basaltes, and red lava, both compact and porous. N ) volcanic crateres were, however, discovered •, and the eruptions were, there- fore, inferred to have been very ancient. Several crystallizations were found among the volcanic mat- ters. No new species were here found by the bo- tanists Tlie stiawberrics aid rasp-ben its were iitill in flower : the gooseberries were beginning to turn ltd : Celcvy and cresses were not plcntiiul. Foliated oysters of a black and vinous colour •, b'.au- liful whelks j pcctincs j sm ill common mussels j witli dillV'ient varieties of the Khna-cochUy were found by the conchologists. Water hens, wild duck>, cor- morants, guillemots, black find white vvag-tails, a small undcscribid lly- catcher of an a/iirc blue co- lour, were among the fowls shot by the hunters. The individuals of all thcic species, were, however, "P ROUND THE WORLD. 7 •>! -» but rare. They appeared not in flocks, but solitary mournful, and drooping. The martin and sand- martin were the only species of birds which appear- ed to be here in thfir proper element, and n^turf 1 residence. It h probable, that, to a certain depth, the earth remains here frozen, even during summer. The temperature of the streams never exceeded 4*^ of Reaumur's thermometer. In the open air, the mercury stood at 1 5*^. These people are utterly strangers to the practice of agriculture. Yet, they are fond of vegetable substances, and collect the wild bulbous roots for their winter's provisions. In genius, art, and industry, as in vi'TOur of bodily can- jtltution, they are greatly inferior to the inhabilaiit*^ of Tchoka. On the 2d day of August, the French f:i;^ate.; sailed with a fair western wind, from the bottom of the Bay de Castries. This was soon after changed for southern winds. They wished to run along the coast of the continent, till they should come withia sight of Peak Lamanon. The weather, hitherto fa- vourable, became, on the Oth, exceedingly incle- ment. The tempestous rolling of the billows, to- gether with adverse breezes from the south, oblig- ed them to sail with all their sails expanded, and with extreme caution, lest they should be carried backwards, or hurried into sudden danger. The barometer fell as low as to twenty seven inches five li nes. A th ousand circumstances conspiring, ren- dered their progress extremely dai\gerous and a- larming. Northerly winds, however, came at last ta their relief, lu the evening of the c^th, the fri» m Si 3 74 LA PEYROUSE's VOYAflE gates lir.d, by tlie a«;slstance of these ulnds, rcacliecJ tlie latitude of the Bnu' do Lati^le. A bank, afford- ing very rrorulnr soundings, nas found to extend op- posite to tills l);iy, for ten Iciigues, from north to south, niKl, at the same time, to ijii out, for about ' N. Lat. The southern point of thf island of 'rcho- ka or begalien, was next discovered : it was found to lie 111 45° 57' N. L:tt. in 14^" ^4' K. I.ong. In Ici'gth from north to bcut!i. 'I'b.e i.sle of Tcheka, which thus terinliiatts, ir. one of the greatest in the woiKl. It is this same isle which has been otherwise known hv t!.e name of C)i:u Jls>^o. Ciucha, divided from 'I'choka by a cIkuuicI which Is but twelve kaguef in brcdth i^ the Jisst) of the Japanese \ aiul its ex- tension suuthwarJ, is boun 'ed only by the Strright of Sanuaah. 'I'he KuRiLif. Isuis He father cast- ivard niu i \v\^ tl ween these isles, on llie one sulc, an th a< the two JKSsos, or Citicha and 'I'chuka, on the c« ther, Is cmipreherded that which has been denomi- nated tlie tiea of ft sso, and commu'ilcatcs with \\u Sea of ()rnt,r'iK.. At Capk Crulon, the iidiabilant.:; gf the isluul uf Ith Ji.a, for ihc first time, vcntuied ROUND THE WOflLD. K5 to visit tlie French navigators on board their ships. At liieir first cominGj on boarJ, they betrayed some fears ; which, however, were ahuost immediately cSanpjcd for extreme coufidiMice. They acted with the same freedom, as if amuoL^ their best friends ; site dorvn in a circle on the qLUirterdeck, and ^'ty- ly smoked tlicir pipes. 'Iliis confidonce of theirs was, by tl.e I'lcnch, encouraged ar.d rewarded with presents of iron instruments, bculs, silks, tobacco, ;ind nankeen, 'i'obacco md Inandy were soon pcr- (jlved tL) be llic articles which ihcy pii/cd tlie n ' I. 'J'he figures of these islanders are stout and wfU-pvoportioncd •, their features are rei^ular*, iheii" b* ird reaches to the breast j their arms, neck, and b ick. arc covereil with hair. Their nrhiJIe .stature sremed to be a'.jout an ini'h lower than that of the French, 'I Ih ir sl.In is tawny as that of the nations oa llie cnist of jjarbary, 1 heir manners w. ro V iMve aiiJ dis(nitied. But tliev siiewed much more cf avKiice^y^d Kss of gratitude, tlian the C)K'>TniYs if tl)e mtw ilc dntricx. Their dresses arc all tin: workmansliip of their own hands. 1 heir huts and farniture dsplay no inconsiderable neatness and ele- gince. They extract the oil of the whab-, by cut- ting the carcase into small piei e<, csp)sing these pieces to putrefy on u slope before the sun and re- ctivinjj tlic oil, as it runs from their putrefaction, in- to vessels of baik or seal^ skin conveniently plac' d. It Is only on the cistern si.lc of the i.O md of Teho- ka, that wi»alc« appear. 'I hou»;h ll\eir modes ot life be 8o near! V similar to those of the litrtars o\\ the continent, it is not imi^n^ilblc but ibey may be ' 'it 176 LA PEYROUSE's voyage a race of people descended from some very different origin. They appeared to posses* a considerable geographical knowledge of this isle, and the oppo- site continent : And their information confirmed those conclu'iions which our voyagers had before been led to make. Concerning Cape Crillon, how- ever, our voyagers might have been led into a fatal error, if they had too hastily believed what they understood to be the communication of their insular friends. The canoe being to these people their on- ly mean of m'.asurement and comparison •, they aifj apt to regard a cove, that alTords reception for but three or four canoes, as a vast harbour, and to re- present a fathom of water, as a depth almost immea- surable. M. de Vaujeas, who had gone to verify the communication of the savages concerning Cape Crillon, returned before night, with a large (juan- tity of salmons, and some articles which he had re- ceived from the natives, in barter. He had found the houses furnishtd with a comparative sumptuous- ness, and ornamented within, with large varnished vessels of Japan. The contiguity of Ciiicha ena- bles these people to obtain at tides of Japanese ma- nufacture in exchange for their whale oil, mutli more readily th.m can their more northern neigh- bours. At the approach of evening, the islanders* left the ships, with a promise to re- visit them next morning. They returned with some salnioni, a si. bre, it>d a linen dress, in exchange for which, they obtained knives and hatchits. Thcv would gladly have pei-uadcd our voyagers to double Cape Ciil ROUND THE WORLD. 177 Ion, and enter the gulph of Aniva, or ratlicr a bay in it, to which tlicy jj^hvc the name of Tabouoro. A light breeze from the north- east, enabled our voyagers again to sail. Doubli'iq Cape Ciiilon, tliey ])trceivcd from the mast head, a rock or islet, a- bout four leagues S. li. from the rocky point of the cape \ and distinguiihed it by the name of La Das- CEREUSE. It is level with the surface of the water, and may probably be covered when the tide is at its height. They stercd to the huwardoi this rock, and went round it, at a league's distance. They lad, at til's distance, regular soundings in twenty- three fdlhoms depth of water. Their progress now crossed the sti eight between Chicha and I choka, which has very properly been named La Peyr-ouse's fcxREiGHT. "^1 bey found Capk Aniva to be very correctly placed In the maps of the Dutch naviga- tors wiio formerly visited these stas. On the 1 jth, they were, by cstronomital observation, and by their time-keepers, in N. Lat, 46° ^' in E. Long, 14 i" y,', 'I'licy saw no l.ind, and could fii.d na bottom. The sky was, on tlie i^th and 17th, grey, ondtliickly obscured by fugs. The wind changed to the cist \ and our navigators f/utli/i^ a toch to the south, liad a clear vi«.w of SrATiN Island. On the n^th, Cape 'Iroun, to the sculhward, Jind Cap*; Uh-hs, S, v.. ly K. wpptaird in jight. C)n tl;c .0th, they saw Company's Islam), and thnnigh fjgs rcronnoi- tred the Stmuout of LUiks. Company's Islmd, tilorg which they rat), at tl rce cr four leagues of cl'st aiice, ijipcar cd to be bnircn, destitute ot ver- nrc, and ut:in habit ab.c. bomc cKfls in the whiit- 11 III 1)8 LA PETROUSE^S VOYAGE coloured rocks, were at first mistaken for snow, but afterwaids more accurately distinguished 1 o the N. E. point of th^s isle, our navigators gave the name of Cape Kastmcum, in honour of the ship by which it was first dixovered. Beyond it, they could perceive thr'C vr four islets*, and northward, a larj;e channtl, nhich seemed to divide Company's Island from the Kurilks. Fogs made it impossi ,Ie for them to continue their course on the 21st, the 22d, and the 23d. On the 24th, the 25th, and the 26th, tlie same fogs still prevailed ; and our na- vigators were obliged to continue tachrig among these isles. On the 29th the weather cleared up j and they again dlscernftd the summits of the moun- tains. They descried Mareckan Isle, the most south- ern of the Kuriles. From N, E. to 5 W. its Itnoth is about ten leagues, A liigh jutting rock terminates each of its extiemitics : In its middle tiscs a peak, that, at a distance, seems to contain the urificc ol a volcano, l he northerly winds prevailing, determined our navigators to sail out by tUc channel which lies southward from Marcckan. Duiing the night they crowded sai/^ in order to reach the entrance of the channel. At diy-brt;«k, tluy desciicd the south- west point of Marcckan, dist int ut about two leagues to the south cast. To this pc^int was given the name of Cape Kollin, in honour of M. RuUin, the sur- [{eon of the expedition. i hey were left, fur some short time, in n dead calm. Ijcit, the current for- tunately drove them towauls the middle of the chan- nc 1 on d th cy advanced, in tl lis way, a JO ut fo ur leagues eastward. 'I'iie brcudih of the channel, ROUND THR WORLD. lies ibcy llie nth- lies .line Mir- for- lian- foui" 179 tliey cert&inly found to be about fifteen leagues; The winds at last settled at E. N. E. and they en- tered the channel by clear moon light. It was named by them Canal de la Boussole *, and they thou^rht it the finest that was to be found among the Kurile Isles. At midnight, the sky was again obscured by clouds j and the next morning was veiled in thick fogs. At six in the evening, while the fogs still continued, they tacked towards the land. 'I he fogs were still thick. To-.vards mid- night, the shifting of the wind to the W. enabled the French frigates to stand to the eastward, while they waited for the return of morning. The sun was twice visible during the morning. The fogs then returned with equal thickness, as in the pre- ceding day. M. de la Peyrouse, in consid* ration tlut the season was far advanced, was now at last induced to abandon tlie design of exploring the nor- thern Kuriles, and to bend liis course towards Kamt^chatka He therefore siotdh. N. E. Till the ^th of bcptember, tlie fogs still obscured their horizon. Diiiin^ this progress, tliey had time to compare and to examine in a more paiticulur manner, their r-espectivc observations concerning the natural his- tory of the new lands uhich lh«'y had visited, and the state of society in th-m. Iho seas of I'artary wliich thrv explond, thouj^li the limits of the old- est inhabited continent had liccn uttnly unknown to Europeans. The Jesuits could never conmmnicate nnv decisive information concerning tlit eastern part of the Chinese empire, buch uf them as truvcllcd li I j8o LA PEYROUSE^S VOYAGE into Tartary, ^vere never permitted to approach the sea-shore. The emperor always prohibited every person from sailing to the northward of liis domini- ons : And it was supposed that this northern region of Asia concealed riches, which its lords were anxi- ous to hide from the avarice of strangers. From the observations of the French navigators, it has appear- ed, that the northern coast of East Tartary is as thinly inhabited as that of North America. Its mountains and the river of Sci^alien have cut it off, except at the sea-coast, from being explored by the Chinese or the Japanese. Its inhabitants are pecu- liarly distinguished, alike from the Mantchou lar- tars, and from the islanders of Jesso, Oku-Jesso, and the Kuriles. I'he ilver of begalien is the ge- neral receptacle of its waters. The whole num!)er of the people inhabiting in the tract from the 42" of North Latitude, as far as to the Bate de Casiric^^ would certainly be over- rated at three millions. The river i.f Segalien, not f.ir removed beyond ;his bay, IS the only chinnel ot passage to the mttrior co'PmtTC.: of the country The inhabitants of jesso nnd Oka- Jesso, are all well acquainted with the ex- istence of the river of bcgallen. The ,;dvt ntures of commerce, however, advance up it, but for eight or leu d ays journey Ih e marsiies w ;hicl 1 surrounc the mouth of the livcr, pio^ably exclude the I'ar- tais with their llocks, from all residence near it. Tlie ancient tiairativc of the Jesuits, have repre- sented this coast ns the scene of a pearl-fishery: But the I'rench iavi(;ators did not any whtre find yenrh of sucli beauty, or \\\ uch nua'ibers in the ROUND THE \V O ;<. L D. iSfr shells uF the ovsters which thcv drayjed up, ns that they cauld deteimine any ihii;g coriCtrning the rea- lity ot that piece of information. No permanently inhabited villaees were seen on the coa,t. Bears, hinds, fawns, were perceived fef-ding in a tranquillity, tliHt shewed these !-cc;!es to be little frequented by mankir.d, on the co-ist of the Baie de Tlrnaie. u\. tonib, with the remiunsof some burni: trees, wore the only things indicating this region to be. at all, the report of human inhabitants. The Baie de SuJJ'rcin was equally desolate. Nor did the whole |>opula- lioa of the Bait' dc Caxtries appear to exceed five and twenty or thirty persons riiut, ciialcedony, caJcuicous spar, zeolite, porpiiyry, several bcautiluj crystals ar:d incrustations ot volcanic origin, with a diver>.ily of othei matters, such a^j are often found amid the lavas of extin-'uisiied volcanoes ; but no etallic substances ; — were iound on these coasts bv m the minerah^gists attendant on the French voyage, 'I'choka or Oku-Jes^'O, presents a coast still mori* fertile in vegetation than the oppo>ite continent cf 'rarlai Yet, the vcpctable kinuioin furnishes but a comparatively small proporiiiui of the ^;ub- sisttncs of its inhabitants, — only the roots of sa- raiurj and of garlic. Juven himting seems to yield bi:t an inconsiderable part of their proviiilons ; ihcir dogs lefused llesh, bit devoured H>h with the must voracious eagerness. 'i"he skins of tlKs end bears, forming a part of the drtss of these ptojd L mg/e, bcin;^ more than f.velve hunJred tolses i'l h?i;4ht, and in clear weather, visible at the distance of forty leagues, is an excellent hind-rrmk for the soutlicrn coast of the ne\vly discovered chan- nel of 'i'artarv. The Russians, ilioii<'h not the dis- coverers of this channel and its adjacent isles, are likely to profit the most by the discovery \ for they will, hereafter, in all probability, carry on n great navigation in the sea of Ochotsk, and establish art, ;;cience, and an abundant, civilized, population, in these regions, of which the solitude is, at present, scarcely enlivened by a few hordes of wandering Tartars. It is impossible now to ascertain by wliat progress these northern extremities of the Asiatic coasts received their population. But it may easily be conceived, that when the adjacent continent was once peopled, some of those innumerable accidents to which the fortunes of mankind arc subject, could not fail to diffuse a few fugitivw;s or adventur- ers, even into regions so remote and comfortless. — 'i'he following is the most ample Vocadl'lary of the lann"un[rc of the Island of Tchoka, which t' French navigators were, during their short stay on tlie coast, able to collect. — Their pronunciation is gut. tural, yet soft, resembling that of persons who have the defect in articulation, of speaking thick. '^he princ'ifial (i:irt^ of the human body. Chy^ The eyes Taroj The eye-brows '^tiechclyiu^ '\ he forehead Do//, The nose ROUND THE WORLD. i8i m me nc. U the gut. Notamckaun^ The cheeks TsarOf The mouth XmOf The teeth jioTiy The tongue Mochtchiri^ The chin Tch^e, The beard %l' chara^ The ears ChapOf The hair OchetouroUy The nape of the neck Saitourou^ The back Tapinn ehim^ The shoulder *Jacts soukf The arms '^oy, The fore-arm '• '<' ' Tay-ha^ The wrist Tay-powp^f The hand and fingeri Tchouni /iompi't The thumb Kbouaime pompe^ The fore figner Kmoche kia ponipi ), The middle finger Obsta poffiptf The fourth finger Para pottip^y The little finger Tchame^ The fore and upper parte of the breast roho. The nipples HonCf The belly Tsisra, The private parts of the man ChipouUle^ The private parts of u woman u^ssorohdy The buttocks Jlmhcy The thighs yluchi^ The knees 1 cheat f The ham or bend of the knee j^ 'una it SI The legs Oati/j:'hf Thecalfofthcleg Pi i86 LA P E Y R OU .-. E ' S VOYAGE |f!i Otocouhamiy The ankles The upper part of the foot The heel The sole of the feet Tchol a run a Knma /iompcaniy The great toe Tassou pom/teom, The second toe Vnxsouha poinpeaf»,'Y\\e. middle toe Tassounm, The fourth, and the little toe Names of a diversity of other object";. Y7, The great island which they in- habit Another less cfeneral name for the J same isle Chid )a. Mantchous. I'chovzd. An island or people, south from Tchoka A people of Tartary, dwelling on the river Segallcn, N. W- fronr. Tchol;a Th e sea KaiattiyOvKahani^ A ship ilocatoijrou, 'omc T.(7. Ouhanno Koch'koum. A canoe A thole of a canoe Oars or paddles A small vessel with a handle, vvhict; ib made of birch-baik, and is us- ed in drinking, and In emptying the canoes of water Ouachehahaiy A wooden scoop or shovel, for emp- tying the canoes of water Turatte^ A very long, strong, yet narrow len- them strap, used in fastening cii- noes ROUND THE WORLD. iRy The bench of a canoe Am iron hatchet, — imported by the Mantchou Tartars A great lance of tempered iron,— likewise imported by the Man- tchou Tartars A bow Common arrows tipped with iron, smooth or barbed. M. T. Forked arrows, tipped with iron, M. T. Blunt wooden arrows A large cutlass. M. T. Mat urainitsi and Makiriy A small knife in a sheath, which hangs from a leathern girdle round the body. M. T. A name for a French knife in a sheath A large thumb-ring of iron, lead, MoncarOf Ho, Couhou, lasse/.'ai, Tassiro. Mat Sire, liiikatm wood, or the sea-cow's tooth icotanij scvvinfr nee dh Yech >tr. ^ichl'a. 10 bcl^Ot .Acht Hvtar oussa. ouss, Titarapi A A cravat or handkerchief A hat or bonnet The skin of the sea-calf, made Into a long, loose great coat A loose great coat, very skilfully made of the bark of the birch- tree A large great-coat of dog-skin A co.irse stuft* shiit, ornamented with :dg n cuuing f nank :^f- 'fl m^ ;fl II cen i8S LA PEYROUSE*S VOYAGE Otoumouchi, Ochfs^ Tcbiran^ MiraubaUf Tcharompe^ Tatnay Small, round-headed, waistcoat but- tons of brass. M. T. Buskins of skin, sewed to the shoes Shoes in the Chinese fashion, termi- nating in a point, which bends upwards A leathern hag, with four twisted horns, which is hung as a pouch, at the girdle Ear-rings, consisting, each, com- monly of six or eight blue beads, M.T. Single blue beads. Blue is the fa- vourite colour of all these people Hieratchtchiramy A large and strong mat, on which they sit or lie down to sleep j^chliaharoup}^ A screen in the shape of a fan, which the old men wear to protect their eyes from the sun The fire '4s* A dog A musket A bucket for drawing water, shaped like ours, but made of the bail', of the biich tree Ficsh water Sea- water Small rord A large wooden spoon A copper kettle. M, T. A rod or pole A hut ur house Ounchkaf CbtchepOf Sorotfi/i/^f Vitubau^ ROUND THE WORLD, 189 UbOf Xnye, II'j.. "-aray il'/urara haune^ Tcbaira^ Tthait'Qubay ChaumnUf ^.r sieheche'f TochCf Chon/til'i\ Ot'jroutchina^ Mabjuni Mabjtft't l\ch Koutou, .'^r. /.;;•/, KffiNcbhf TalabUf M(kbi\ iJmucby Otauiy The houes, the hamlets The plain on which stands the ham- let or village river runnint: across lie sun the pi .un The rumament Tiic clouds 'iiic wind The cold The season of sno'.v, winter A stone Wood, the trunk, of a tree Plank of fir Bark of rough birch-trees, in large M pieces OSS, a pl;int Pastures, meadows Small'ige, wild celery Th". \Mld rose-tree Ths dogrope, or blossom oi the ro>e-trcc A sort of tulip The plant angelica K bird, the sinj^inj^ of a bird A bird's feather 'y\ le lac kd uv A *n>all common swallow A gull A common fly 'J'l It comtnon kirn n cor kle 'J he jDothcrof-pearl oyster Harp lish n ' " 1 90 Chauboun^ P aunty LA PEYROUSl's VOYAGE N. Salmon Fishes in general, also a species of' baibel A variety of the carp A fish bone The roes, cj^ti^s, and alr-blacUlcr of fi&hes, whif-li are broiled und pre- served in heaps A few common words. m, hi, Yes Hya, No HrjUaitjf That cannot be, I will not Ta-sOf Who ? what ? what is it ? Tap, Tafie, This, that Couhaia, Come hither y/jb^, To eat Cbukii, To drink MuuarOf To lie down, to more £tarOf To sleep NumcrAli, rvhini, One Tju, Two Tch^, Three rNt\ Four j4ic/jfi^t Five Thathp^^ Six ^rouathfiiy Seveit 7uubt 6'cbfjM/fi'f ti^Ijt Tchinchi Scbumf>i^ Ninr Ujua/npCf Ten ROUND THE WORLD- 191 Tchinobi kassma^ Toubi kassma^ Tohei kassmay YheOi k.is.ima^ j^schnebi ka ■■ sina^ Thambi kastma^ j^rouamin kas\ma^ Tuuhi schiitnpi kasitneiy Tchuiibi icktnnpi Imsma^ II . Nam/)/, hi kn i sma , thiUumpLbi ka ma tchinec ICnc hnutinipe t;uch ho^ ylschn^ h uatipi' tauh ho^ T'^u tucbue U'juaihpc loich- Eleven Twelve Thirteen Fourteen Fifteen Sixteen Seventeen Eighteen Nineteen Twenty hoy I hirty Forty Fifty /'o, An hundred Pi These islanders were not observed either to dance or sing. But, with a s irt of music il instrument fonacd of a stalk, of celery or euphorbium, they %v<:ie heard to play some plaintive, wild notes, resem> blinj» the softer tones of a trumpet. Amidst this recollection of these novel nppearan- ccs, in the varied condition of social life, which had been presented to their observation on the eastern coasts of Tartary j the French n.ivi^rntors advanced on their voyage towards K.imischatka. At six o'- clock in ti)e evening of the 3th of September, they were within sight of the K.wntschaikan coast. The laountains which they fust observed, were those of tlje volcano noilhward from St I'cler and St Paul. The aspect of tlic whole coast was hideous. N')ught met the eye, but rocks, on which, even in the begin- ning of September, the iujws as yet remained un- 1 ri .i' r f 'tf it)Z LA I'EYROUSE*S VOYAGE * IM thawed. On the day following, the weather conti- nued clear. They stood to the northward : and, at the bases of the mountains crowned with eternal Ice, saw a ground riclily carpeted with lively verdure, and shaded bv tufts and thickets of trees, la the evening of the 6th, they reached the entrance of the bay of AvATscHA, or St Peter and St Paul. The fire in the Russian light-bouse upon the eastern point of the bay, being sheltered from the winds on- ly by four boards, could not be kept burning during the night. Oar voyagers, therefore, delayed enter- ing the bay, till the huur of two o'clock in the af- ternoon of the following day, which was the ^ih of September. Tiie governor came out, in his ciinoe, for the space of five leagues, to meet them. I'luin him they learned, that their arrival had been long expected y and that the governor- gencr^il of idl Kamtschatka had letters for them, and was expect- ed to auive within five days, at the settUment of St Pltlr and St Paul. Scarcely had our navigi- tors come to anchor uch services as they were qualified to perform, were warmly made by them, and were accepted by the Fiench navigators. Muskets were lent, and pow- der and shot were supplied to these friendly natives ; and the French obtained from their cares, abundance of wild fowl, during the whole time of their stay ia the harbour. Lieutenant Kaborof, governor of the harbour of St Plter. and bT Paul, and commander of a military force of a Serjeant and forty Cossacks, which was there stationed j — was unwcaiicd in his kind attentions to the stran';crs j nor were his sol- diers slow to imitate his benevolent example. This gentleman instantly proposed to send a messenger to Mr Kaslofi-Ougrlnin, governor general of Ok- hotsk and Kamtschatka, who was then at Holche- MTSK, with whiitcvcr dispatches M uc l.i Pcy rouse flhould wi>h to be so forwarded, I\l. de Ltssti'*, a 194 LA PEYROUSE's voyage I '1 companion of the French voyage, acted as interpre- ter between the French and the Russians ; and was now employed to write a Russian letter, in the name of M. de la Pes rouse, to Mr KaslofF. M. de la Pey- rouse, at the i,ame time, wrote to the same gentle- man in French. The Cossack messenger was in- stantly dispatched, as the bearer of these letters. In the mean time, our voyagers were enteitained with every possible attention of honourable hospi- tality by Mr Kabnrof, and the other inhabitants of St Peter and bt Paul. Mrs Knborof, the lieuten- ant s lady, was evtr leady to oiler them tea, and all such other refreshments as the country commonly afl'orded. Nor could Messrs de la Pey rouse and de Langle avoid accepting, from her generositv, a few valuable skins of sables, rein deer, and foxes. Every one, indeed, was ambitious to make tlicm presents. Our navigators, however, failed not, amply to compen- sate the kindness of their hobts, by presents adapted to be very serviceable in that climUe. For the ac- comrot d.ition of tlie ii'tronomcrs of the voyage, the most convenient house; in the village was, at tlic firsi hint of request, appropriated, with the greatest alacrity, by Mr Kaborcf, Guards and guides wtye sent to accomi any llic naturalists in their excursions to explore iht inletlor country, Messrs liernlzet, INIongiii, and KectVLur, thus accompanied, went to visit a volcano, t^.e smi ke of wliich, and sometimes its flame, were seen from tlic harbour of Avatstha. 'J'hcir guides, beliiving that, in any attempt to ascend the volcanic mountain hunKui beings must vinuvoidrtbly pcrli^h ;innd ihc sn.tkc, would attend ROUND THE WORLD. 195 ■pre- was ^ame Pey- ntle- ,s in- tters. ained Qospi- lUS of iuten- ,nd all monly and de a fevT Every esenls. )ai\)cn- aptcd le ac- oe, tlie It ilie e lit est s ^^tre ursious nilzet, ntiit to iietiujcs atsc'iift. mpt to IS must ;',tU'nd the Frenchmen only to the base of that mountain 5 and it was under this express condition they set out. In a forest, at six leagues distance from the village, was their first halt for rest. The intermediate ter- ritory was irregularly overspread with birches, pines, and other trees or Shrubs. Berries of various sorts, and of every diflPercnt shade of b/ack and rerl, offer- ed an agreeable refreshment to the travellers, on their way. At sunset, the tent was pitched, and n fire kindled with great quickness, and with the ut- most attention to prevent the fire from communicat- ing itself to the surrounding trees. In the morning, the party again proceeded. The guides, according to their agreement, stopped at the foot of the vol- canic mountain, at the line beyond which vegeta- tion ceased to ascend. Here they arrived not soon- er than three o'clock in the afternoon of the second day of their expedition. Having reposed them- selves, during the night, the French gentlemen, on the morning of the third day, ascended, alone, to- wards the volcanic crater. The mountain appeared to be composed of lavas, varying only in density or porosity. On the summit vvcie found gypseous stones, with sulphur in crystals, less beautiful than those of the peak of Teneilffc The shorls, and other stones, were in general less beautiful, than those specimens of the same which are found near ancient volcanoes. Among others which the French naturalists brought back, were some tolerably good specimens of the chrysolite. The horizon on the summit of the mountain was not more than a muskct- shjt in diameter j save that once, it opened and dis- ^ ' 2 lijO LA PEYROUSE's V0 7AG2 i/> covered to them the bay of Avatscha, ^\■Ith the fri- gates diminished to the eye, by distance, to the size of small canoes. On the edge of the crater, the mercury in the barometer subsided to nineteeii in- ches, eleven lines, and two tenths of a line j while in the barometer on board the frifjattis, it fetood at t'.vunty seven inches, nine lines, and two-tenths of a line. On the summit of the volcanic mc»untain, the mercury in the thermometer was two degixcs and a half undor the freezing point : but at the water side, there v.as a difference of no less than twelve degrees from this temperature. To calculate the elevation of the mountain, therefore, from the indications of tae barometer, it should seem to be more than fif- teen hundred toises above the level of the sea. Fogs unfortLinately frustrated the views of the French naturalists, who had ascended so far to examine the volcanic crater. Returning to their tents below, they found that their guides had already considered them as persons who had thrown their lives away j had said prayers for the rest of their departed spirits; and had drunk a part of the brandy which wns left under their care. The ensuini; night was distinguished by an excessive fall of snow, in consequence of which every idea of more purticularly exploring the limits of the volcano, vvas abandoned j and tl:e naturali,"}!;;, ^vlth their guides, returned in all possible haste to the vilhige. — The casks were, in the mean time, filled with water } and the /jo/(/s of the frigates, with ^vood, and with hay for the tame animals which ouv voyagers expected here to receive from the govcr- nor. general. Of all their own //i-c' .r/'^r/', tlu-y had ROUND THE WORLD. 197 but one sheep now surviving. Unluckily the Kamt- schatkans have been hitherto extremely negligent in regal a to the multiplication of tame cattle a- mong them 5 although there Is such a luxuriance of grass, in the southern part of this peninsula, that, with the care of building barns for the reception of hay, and cow-houses for the lodging of the cattle themselves, during the months of winter, cattle might soon be rendered as plentiful here as even in Ireland. But, the chace of the wild animals, and the capture of the salmons, which, in immense pro- fusion, enter their rivers, appear to them, far easier means of procuring subsistence. The Russian and Cossack soldiers follow the example of the native Kamtschatkans. Only the lieutenant and the ser- jeant had small gardens filled with turnips and potatoes. The rest are content with the roots of wild plants, and with the berries, from which they prepare conserved sweetmeats and agreeable drinks for the use of winter. The French voyagers were pleased to have it in tlielr power to Supply tlieiv kind entertainers with a good quantity of the seeds of some of the most valuable European potherbs, Jn their hunting; cxrursions throu':jh the country, tlie Strangers looked eagerly for bears, deer, and argali ; but could find neither beasts nor birds of game, ex- cept a few ducks, or rather teal. 'J'he friendly Kamt.schadalt's, however, br-.ught them, during their stay, f )ur bears, an clk-j a reindeer, with a large quantity of divers and otlicr wild foivls. Abun- dance of salmons, herrings, small cod, and plaice, Kere, at all times, and with the utmost case, to bs 0.3 e i. <'! i 198 LA PEYROUSE's voyage taken in the bay. A few barrels were salted for fu- ture use. — M. Kasloff at length arrived j bringing with him various specimens, particularly of the mi- neralogy of the country, for the inspection of the French naturalists. His address and manners were those of a polite, accomplished, European gentle- man. On the day after his arrival, he, with Ma ScKMALEFF, Commander of the Kamtschadales, and the good vicar of Paratounka, dined with M. de la Pcyrouse, on board La Boussole. He was received, as he came on board, with a salute of thirteen guns. He brought no letters for our navigators. He greatly regretted his inability to supply them, before the time of their intended departure, with more than seven heads of black cattle. On the day following, he dined on board 1/ Astrolabe, where he vviis received with the same honours. He would accept no paymer.t for the oxen which he brought. On the day following, he entertained them on shore, at a ball, to which all the women of the village, both Kamtschadales and Russiai'S, were invited to meet them. The dames, both Kamtschadale and Russian, were dressed in silk-stuffs, and wore, in particular, silk handker- chief: bound round their heads. '1 he Russian dances •were accompanied with very pleasing tunes. The dances of the Kamtschadales resembled the vvritli" ings of persons suffering under convuhuons. A sort of mournful cry, ^^Ith dlfHculty elicited from the the breasts of the performers, is the only music with which these dances are accompanied. In the midst of the ball, arrived a carrier from Ochotsk, the beArev of a large trunk, contrvining packets of httcrr 11 ci ROUND THE WORLD. 199 for tlie strangers. The ball was interrupted. The Frenchmen were delighted with the news which they received. M. de la Peyrouse, in particular, was pleased to find himself promoted to the rank of Commodore. Mr Kasloft' eagerly congratulated him upon his new honours j and kindly celebrated the event, by a discharge of all his artillery.— Pro- visions were furnished to our voyagers, during their stay in the harbour, by the joint exertions of all the people of the village. A Kamtschadale sledge, two royal eagles, and a great number of sable-skins, were among the presents which the generosity of Mr Kas- loft* would oblige the French commanders to accept. The narrative of Cook's //jZ/v/ voyage^ was almost the only thing of value, which his grateful guests; could prevail with him to accept in return for so many favours. The unfortunate Ivaschkin, men- tioned by Cook with respectful compassion for for distresses, was still a resident in Kamtschat- ka. When a youth under the age of twenty, he happened to utter, in the imprudent gaiety of a convivial party flushed with liquor, some expressions disrespectful to Elizabeth the then reigning empress of Russia. For this trivial indis- cretion, all his subsequent life was to be consigned to ignominy and wretchedne is. He wa» the son of a noble family, an oliicer in the guards, very hand- some in his face and person. His nostrils were slit 5 the severe corporal punishment of the knout was in- flicted upon him j and he was banished for life, to the distant extremities of Kamtschaika. After more than fifty years of e\ilc, he obtained, not many W<\ ^,,i.M' r 500 LA PEYROUSE'S voyage t 'i years since, a pardon from the Empress Catherine. JBut it came too late. He chose rather to conti- nue In the snowy desarts in which he had pined out all his better years, than to return to a scene where he should no longer find a friend, and which would renew the painful remembrance of his youthful in- discretion, and of the unjust corporal suffering and disgrace with which it had been punished. He had been educated at Paris j and still knew as much French, as made him not incapable of conversation with the French gentlemen. Yet, shame for the ignominy to which he had been unjustly subjected, made him, for some days after his arrival with Mr Kasloff, to hide himself from their presence. Mr Kasloff, who treated him with a kindness that was highly adapted to soothe his mind under its sorrows, prevailed with him, at last, to shew himself to the French. The obliging attentions of M. de la Pey- rouse, rendered him fond of their society. He re- ceived, with the warmest gratitude, those presents which they eagerly bestowed, to soften, as much as possible, the hardships of his condition. He point- ed out to them the grave of M. he la Croyere, a Member of the Royal Academy of Sciences, who, on his return from a Russian expedition to explore the coast of America, in which he had engaged as astronomer and geographer, died here, in the year 1741. They placed over the grave of their fellow- countryman, an inscription on copper, commemorat- ing his character and his death. Over the grave of the English navigator, Clarke, they likewise erect- ed a similar inscription on a pLtte of copper ^ as that XOOND THE WORLD. 20i with vvliich he had been honoured by his fellow- voyagers, was only inscribed with a pencil upon a piece of wood. Mr Kasloft" promised to erect, with- out dehy, a monument less perishable, «nd which should be more worthy of two luch illustrious men, M. de la Croycre had m^irricd at robolsk , and his positerity still reside there, in a lituation of comfort and respect. Mr Kasloff was familiarly acquainted with all the particulars of the voyages of Behhing, and Tchiri- Kow. These formed the subjects of frequent con- versation between him and his French guests. He thence took occasion to inform them, that he had left Mr Billings at Okhotsk, builJing two vessels for the farther prosecution of the Russian discove- ries in the northern seas. But there were difRcul- ties to be surmounted, which would still too long retard" the expedition of Billings. Mr Kasloff was of opinion, that it might have been better for the Russian government, to have sent him out from some port of the Baltic. Our navigatois were permitted to take a plan of the bay of Avatscha. They presented to Mr Kas- loff, an elegantly finished drawing of it. A draw- ing of the OsTROG, and a box of acids for the ana- lysis of mineral waters, were, also, among their pre- sents to him. He was not unskilled in the scicices of chemistry and mineralogy. But his first atten- tions were given to the improvement of those arts, which were to furnish to the people of his govern- ment, the immediate necessaries of subsistence. The st-ul promises to produce, if not wheat, at least a« •1 *K,.,<^''' 402 LA PEYROUSe's voyage ,: I i f.T !• I bundant crops of rye and barley. Potstoef;, but a few years since introduced from Irkoutsk, were seen to thrive surprizinc^ly in several fields. Mr Kasloff hr'd determined to adopt mild, yet vigorous means, for obliging all the inhabitants of this terri- tory, Russ-ans, Cossaks, and Kamtschadales, to turn thfir attention to agriculture. A new, mixed race is ailsing from the frequent Intermarriages of Rus- sians with Kamtschadales. These are likely to prove more laborious tlian the Russians, less un- couth In form than the Kamtschadales. rhe small- pox, in the year I76g, s^vept away taree-fourths of the lattck^ j reducing their number to fewer than four thousand. The new people, who are spring- ing up, are likely to prove more susceptible of civi- lization tlinn their ancestors. Already, have they be^un to aljandon their '.ubterraneous j'(9«/*/j-, and to build for theinsrlvts ishas, or wooden houses, in the manner of rhe Russians. These i\lfas resemble the cottages of the peasants In the middle and the south of Euiopc J are warmed to an excessive heat, by a brick-slove j and are divided into three small rooms. Those who do not yet possess isl^as, spend the win- ter in ba/t^an?^ which stand like pigcon-houscs, on the top of posts, twelve c thirteen feet high j arc covered with thatching j and are entered by ladders iivhich aflfjrd no very secure footing, The Famt- ichudule wjmen already dress almost en rly the manner of the Russians. Tlie Russian language prevails in all tlie Odrugx, The Russian govern- ment, nlthougli despotic, is here administered with the greatest mildness. The taxes which they levy ■ • I, p- • t A •, arc uldcrs amt- fly in livcrn* witli levy ROUND THE -^VORLD. 203 M'^- . ' on the Kamtschndales, are so light, that the produce of even half a day's hunting, is sufficient to defray the t«x for a whole year. The quantity of specie in circulation among these people, is, in proportion to their numbers, far from inconsiderable Their furs bring a very high price. An otter-skin is worth thirty roubles at the village of bt Peter and St Paul; skins of black-foxes, being extemely rare, are sold f jr more than an hundred and twenty r u- bles, each. Tiie skins of the whie and the ,^rey fox, vary fiom two to twenty roubles. To open a tr.itnc for these skins, the linjjish, in the year ; ;86, seiit a small vessel to K.nntsclKitka, the property of a commercial hou e in Ben;^al and commanued l>y a captain Peter. Mr Kaloff p. rniined the I'.nglish to solicit permiss on for this Cvjnmiercial iuteicouise, in a memorial wliich he transmitted foi t em to the Court of Pet( rsbiirih. But the very v« sscl which brought the proposals, was afterwards vvccked on Co pper IS land an d the desi' II has not b.eii pro &€■ cuted farther. As to climate and productions, Kamtsch.itka may be compared to the const of LnO adur, adjacent to the streiiL;hts or' licllc i\li\ llic Kamlxclunlalcs ".p- p'ared to M. dc la Peyrou«^e, to be \\\t same race of people with the InhaI)itant^ at t'e lin/'c f/c CiKtrn's, Ifj pcisnnal form, l!ic resemblar.ee is couiideraolc : in mildness and p'ol/ity, there is a perfict a;/rcc« iient between llw two hordes, The bay of AvaU «cha i'. perliap- the fiu'st in ihc A'orld. lis entrance )■. narrow J its bottom is mudvly, and nfl'iids excellent auchurin^-j^rouiid. Ou the cailcrn and on the wes« hil *»rl 204 LA PEYROUSE's V07AGK tern side, it has two vast harbours, in which all the ships of both the French and the British Navy might find shelter. The rivers of Avatscha and Para- tounlva enter the bay, but are bar/cd up with sand- banks, which render them accessible only when the tide is :it high water. On a tongue of land curious- ly interjected, stands the vilhge of 3t Peicr and St P ul. Behind the vlllnge, is a small port, in which three or four vessels may very conveniently be at anchor for the winter. This bason is, at its entrance, but twenty five toises wide. On its shore Mr Kas- loff intends to mark out the foundations of a rt": ciry, whicii may, one day, become the capital of K im'scliatkrt, and the centre of a great traie with China, [apan, America, and the Philippine isles. A numher of small streams, and a sm \11 lake of fresli water, •an': near, to supply the new town Avith this article of primary necessity. Already has Mr Ka- lolT issued orders which promise to unite the othci Kamtschadale osfoi^r with that at St Peter and St Pauh The Knmfsthadalcs lia\e oeen conver*"d, wiiuout violence f fresh ith this Ir K.r. olhci '.jnJ bl l\vcv*"ti, cck ve- il; e son n. Hi-, cxnrcn* his pa. •ere the Tjiiouj-ly water, ricd hv litOUUlv'l' the purpose of visltintr our voy.^gers •, tils residence^ there, was in a tent j and his altar was in the open air. lie is vicar aUo of tlie Kuiulls isles, whi<;h he is wont to visit annually. The Russians number twenty one of these isles ; and, rejecting their an- cient names, distinguish them as No. ». No. 2 &.c. From the report ')f the vicar, the Frcnrh navltra- tors understood the isle of AlarecluiK to be No. 21. of the Russians. Ot" the twenty one bf the Kuriles isles which belonjr to the Russians, only four arc, according to the account of the vicar of Paratounka, inliawltcd. 'I'hciic are Nos i. 2. 13. 14. Ncs 13. rtnd I4. liave, both, the same Inhabllants— who pass the suinmer montii< on No. 13. the ^v^ntcr months on No. 14. The others are only vMtcd occasion- ally, for the sike of hunting llic otters and foxes, which arc their ordinary occupants. 'I he currents run very tliong between tlRv.c ivks, especially at th« tntranoes into the UiiVcrcnt ch.r.uicls. A. canoe, or. as ilie Russians name it— /'/■/;"/;/•, is the only ves- srl ill '.vhich the vicar of Paratounki is nccistomed to pciform liis annutl voyages. He believes, that he mudt, several tinus, Innc perished, had it not been for the miraculous viiiur of his tavsocL' and lii* hIr Kasloff, to cairy tlje dispatches jiomc to France. A mutual discharge of cannon from the frigate, and from the batteries, was among the .•as t formalities of the adieus between tlic French navigators ar.d thtir kind Russian hosts. '1 he following are the only other lacts concerning Kaiiitiichatka, \shich ]\1. de la l'*.yrouse has thought ill to insert in the nuriallvc of his voyage. I iils peninsula v."as hrst discovered i^y the Russians, in the latter part 01 the seventeenth century. 'I'iieir jast expedition against tiie independence (if its inha- bitants, took place 1.1 the year 1696. in the ye.u- 171 I, the Kamtsch 'dales, for the l\m tlnu-, agited to own the Rusiian dominion, nnd to pny a slender tiibute of lluw-e hundred .skins of sables, \\\o bund- led ikluu vi red or ^re; 1l\cs, wv.h u L\\ olUr- iiii TvOnNI) THE WORLD. *i ^ I Ills M-i, ill I'licir > liuiitl- sh SKms. A milltqrv force of about four liundred sol- (hcis, v.iin ;i sui itable proportion o f olK. ers, IS pcr- minentlv nnintniu'ecl in this coun'ry. to support th<2 nuthority of the Russian ^nn'crnment, and to collect tlic revenue Ihe fcn'ni of the rovcrnmcnt of tlii' p.-oviiicc lias t)een several times cUangc 1 tl 111 the ■cur 17' Kimtschntk.i was reduced into the con- dition ol .1 province depcnacnt on the i^overuniont of O'lN^hots';: And Okhotsk if-eif is subject to the: jurisdiction of the supreme civil courts of Irkoutsk, The Ou'rogy or Kam'.schadale villa;;eof Bolcherkt'K, w; s once the capital of K untschatiia, and the resi- dence of a superior millcary oflicei'. A seijcant, ot' the name of Mt;r/i fif, 1ms nk : At the Os//- p-, or villa-'c of m iSr TETtK AND St Paul, Liutcnant Kahurfif is thii commaiulint : iVl.ijor /.w/i'v/oj^'comm nid'j at XijiNiit- Ka'itsciivvka, or the Ustrsfo^ lower Kamtschatki : KRKNir, or uu net Kamf-chutlia, is under the com- niand of s-. rjeant MumnyrJl', These several com- miiideis ivc independent of one another, and imme- diately rcsponsibh; t) the j;oveMior of Okhotsk, alone, r Kre rt sides al.o in this country, an dlicei nho I'.as the title of In^l^ctuv of tho l\imt:,cha(ia/cs'^ and whose du\v i^, t^) protf;ct these natives from tiic (oppression of the military nifo/ernnient-. His rank is that of .1/../ r in the army, Trom K.M-ntschatka, the Rus^ians hive undertaken various adventures of iT.ercantilw* navit;ation, and have fitted out diifercnt if d voyages ot discovery to o.pio'c the novtlicrn coasts ofAm.iica, 1 he Al'uiian isles ; tht sc isles cist- *vard from Kiirntschi'tl'^ 1, wh;e!i arc known by t!ir R 2 k- •;;c8 LA PJiYROUS£''S VOYAGE ; I h \ m1; ' I, name of Oonala>hica ; and all the ndj ::•":.'; ivie'? lying southward from this peninsula ", were, first, discovered by Russiarj navigators sailing from Kimt- ftchatka. Okhotsk is the seat of the mercantile spirit and capital, by winch navig-tion for the fur-trade \i carried on in tliesc seas. The vessels usually employed in this navigation, are from five and forty to fifty ft'tt in leut^th, have but a single mast, are ir.anncd by crews of forty or fifty men, each, all of whom are at least not less expert as hunters than as seamen. They depart from Okliotsk in tlie month of June, pass usually between the point of Lopatka :ind No. 1. of the Kurilcu, steer eastward, and con- tinue to ronm about from island to island, till they have bought or procured, by their own hunting, a luimber of skins of otters and other animals, sulU- cicnt to defray the whole expcnce of the adventure, and to afford to the merchants proprietors, a profit of cent, per cent, upon that expence. The captains of these trading vessels, receive orders from the go. vernor of Oivhotsk, to oblige the natives, in all the isles which they vi>it, to own the dominion of the Russian ]"Lmneror. A revcnueofKccr frequently nccompanies these trading expeditions, to collect whatever tribute the islanders can be persuaddl to pay. It was proposed to send a missionary, by whose endeavours all the unconverted islanders might be brought to embrace tlic Chrislhin filth. Jn tkc ports in width they xvinter, the trading huntevs nr- cessarily found temporary c lablishments. Jlut, Russia Ins not yet fixed any permanent settlement j;usiWiud from KanUschatka.-— Kiaiciia, onihcror- RO'JNI) THE WORLD. 209 I first, splrit trade saally forty t, are all of Iran as month opatka id con- il they ting, a J, suUv- cnture, profit aptains the go. all the of the iciuently collect uilcd to whose if;ht be Irt tVia tevs ne- IJut, tlcmont die cvv- fines between the Cliinese and the Russian domi- nions. Is the STAPLE for the sale of tlie llusslan furs to the Chinese. Fa rs, to th e amount of 730 ;ccl. Sterling a-year, have, t'U lately, been bougiit ani sold at that market. — In the year J7S7, no fewer tlian five and twci.ty vessels, manned uith crc^vs of wlilch the whole number might amount to one tliou- sand men, Kamtschadalcs, Russians, and Cossaks,— sailed eastward in quest of furs ; to find whicii, they would disperse themselves alonj; the American coast, from Cook's river to Ikhrlng's island. On their return, these trcidiny; vessels sometimes enter the /av o f A v;ttscha, an d th ift en. niter some ceed to Okhotsl Th c navigation o del f the ci y . I )10- I o f Okhotsk, later la the year than the end of the montli of September, Is prohibited by a very laudnble, tof t1 le win tcr-1 lurucmcs i.npciKj decrtv", on accoun by which It Ij infcste !. The bny oi Avatticli i i;; Kcvcr shut uj) by ice, and al.vays jiiTords slicker for ihlpplng.— In Kamt^c;halk^^, the winter is Ic-i se- vere than at Pctcrsburi^h j yet ;;now and hoar-frost come on, with f^;reat severity, in KanitN^chiitl^a, :\i early r.s the 20th day of Scptcinb«'r. Against tlio cold, the Russian and Kanilschad.ile inhabit.Tnt '. ci" t!'.e country, ate protected by tlie thi( k skina whlcli form tiieir cLrl.lr.i;, and by the heat of lluir Ijablla- tion<«, which aic warm'.d by iiloves to the temper.i* ture ot 23 , or even iO aocivc the f rec'/.iU'i ;i'-int tt 1 1'he degrfo of litat which Is constantly hepi up i.i these dwillir;^?, was in'Jccd f^'Mli, thnl the I'lci.cli ivi^ators co'.ild not ciJuir \[. wjtliout Kt « ,.' u y i\ ^■•;f1 Ill 210 LA PEYROaSE's VOYAGE II I ;ms ■; i I ; ii immediate suffocation. — The use of the hot bath is familiar to the people, in this region. In the vil- lage of St Peter and St Paul, were two public baths. The bath consists of a very low room, in the mid- dle of which is an oven, constructed without cement, and heated in the same manner as a baker's oven. Its roof is arched. It is surrounded by rows of seats for the bathers, disposed like those in an amphithe- atre. Water, warmed by the fire to a boilincr heat, is continually, during the bathing, cast against the voof, and is thus incessantly converted into steam j an which state, it excites the most profuse perspira- tion in the bathers on the seats, who are exposed to Its action. Preferring dogs to rein-deer, for the use of drawing their sledges ; the Kamtschadales arc ;lius hindered from breeding hogs, sheep, rein-deev, horses, or oxen ; all which animals their dogs would devour, while they are young. Their draught-dogs iirc fed chiefly with fish, and receive their meals- Only at tlic end of the day's journey. By enquiring from Mr Kasloff, the French voyagers learned, tha'' the Russians had indeed seen the north end of the island of Tckoka^ from the mouth of the river Amur, but knew nothing more concerning it. The En- j^lish chart of the bay of Avatscha, is good. BiiJ: iwo banks, situate E. and W. from the entrance in- to this harbour, may occasion some danger j and these are to be avoided — only by keeping two in- sulated rocks on the E. coast, c/trn unth the light- house fi'jtnf^ and by shutting in with the west coast, c large T'jck 0*1 the larboard hnnd. M. Pagclct's ob- ROUND THE WORLD. 211 ce in- and o in- light- asty c ,\ ob- servations fix the house of lieutenant Kaborof In 53° i' N. Lat. in 156° 30' E. Long. The tides are very regular. It is high water, in the bay, at half past 3 o'clock, P. M, The rise, at y?/// and rban^e^ is four feet. C H A P. ai2 LA PEYROUSE's voyage CHAPTER K L E V E N T H. i' NARRATIVF, OF THE VOYAGE CONTINUED, FROM THE EN3 OF SEPTEMBER TO THE 14. OF DECEMBER I787. COURSK FROM THE BAY OF AVATSCHA, SOUTHWARD, TO THiT NA- VIGATORS* ISLES : ANCHORAGE AT THE ISLE OF MAOUNA : MANNERS OF ITS INHABITANTS : MASSACRE OF M. Di: LANGLE, WITH ELEVEN PERSONS OF THE TWO CREWS : ISLES OF OYOLAVA AND POLA : INTERCOURSE WITH THEIR INHABITANTS : COCOA AND TRAITOR ISLES, &C. The north wind, shift ing to west, as our voyagers were making their way out of the bay of Avatscha, rendered it impossible for them to survey, as they had intended, the Kurile isles, as far as Marcckan. They therefore took a couise in their progress, ia which they might cross the parallel of 37" izJ N. Lat. in the Longitude of 16)" j a situation In wlilch geographers have placed a hirge, rich, and populous isle, which the Spaniards arc said to have discover- ed in the year 1620. At midnight, between the 14th and i5tl> of October, they reacheil the latitude of 37" 20'. Flights of ducks, fowls which never lly far from land, 'i'lie weather was clear. 'Kvery de- gree of vigilance was employed, yet no land w to be seen. The island wliich was sought, probably lies farther southward. In their progress eastward from its pretended position, the Frencli navigators observ- ed two small birds j and, in the same evening, a tur- tle pasbcd beildc tViC J.hlp. On the day following, n -■.V ROUND THE WORLD. 213 bird, smaller than an European wren, perched on the maintop-sail yard-arm j and another flight of ducks passed by. Yet, no island was, in these latitudes, discovered. Perhaps M. de ix Peyrouse might have been more successful. If he had chosen rather to run down the parallel of latitude 3^)^ 30'. A seaman unfortunately fell overboard from the As- trolabe, and was lost, during this search. On the iSth and 19th, signs of the near vicinity of land still continued to be observed. But when they reached 17 S° of ■£• Long, all such signs disappeared. On the 22d, at noon, M. de ia Peyrouse, aban- doning this search, directed the f;jgates to assume a southerly course. The billows swelled so high, and rolled with so much violence j that, at one time, in the course of this day, the jolly-boat^ though lashed to the gangway ^ was washed off, and more than twen- ty tons of water were thrown on board. Frequent signs of the vicinity of land — but nothing more- were seen, The French navigators were now, therefore, to look for their next discoveries in t'^t vast field, of from 12" to 13" from north to south, and of 140° from east to west j where the ancient tracks of Quiros, Mendana, Tasman, &c. are, in c- vcry direction, crossed by those of modern naviga- tors j and where isles are scattered in the ocean, just as stars in the milky-way of heaven. On the 23d of October, there blew from the southward a ■tiong g;n'!!K-r lliey found their.^clves in ■2()^ 2*7'' N. Lai. in 173" 3S' ]L. Lo;ij;. Carlieus. plovers, nnd other birds which arc not wont to venture, in their flights, to any great distance from l.ind, were seen hovering, in great number*, voiir.d them. The weather was dlstingiiished by a fogginess of tlie at- n:osphcrc, and by frequent and violent blasts of wind. Yet, the horizon clearing up in all quarter-, except towards the bOiith j the probability c^f the existence of land in tlint qM:;tLer, wa'^, hence, natu- rally suggested Perhaps, they might p^s some flit rock that escaped ihcir observation, and w-hich fu- ture navigators ni'iy at lenr^th detect. The Indica- tions of land ceased, an our va\ a^^e is continued thtlr proj;ress. The i-ky became at lcn;;th so serene, th.it on. they could find the lon;.-ita.Ie, bv lunar observati Several c'oradoes, and two sh.uks, which they no-* cauoht, formetl a veiy ajntei'.le leualc rnnitist tl le salted dishes, to tlie use of which, under a burnin-j- sun, they found it not at all plf:asar)t to be confined. At U:ni;^th, they reached the lrv>pic. Fairer skie:^ and a wider horizon now gratified their view. Birds, h as never wander far fr in land, ^^•erc every sue day seen by th em J yet s till nou iht but the w.i- ters expanded around. On the 4'h of November, in 2f 40' N. Lat. in 173'^ 38' 47" W. Lon-itude, ROUND THE WORLD. 21 id not f most at the re not: 3n t],e »6^ 27' lovers, are, in , were . The th-e at- asts of .lartcr ■, (if the, ?, nata- ^me fl It tiich fu.- incHca- ed thtir ne, that i' vat ion. lev n ')■'".' id St the burnin;/ onfr.'c;]. icr skies Birds, c every the \v i- vembcr, n-itude, the^' ^ught a golden plover, which was so fat, that it ^>.«id not have been long distant from land. On the 5th they crossed their own track from Monterey, On the 6th they crossed the track, of Captain Clarke from the Sandwich isles to Kamt^chatka. The billows swelling hii;h, made their progress suffi- ciently diflicult. A few Hying fishes were the only creatures of the fish-genus, which came in their w,iy. On the 9th, they passed the southern point oftlie SHOAL or Jlat of Villa Lobos, according to the poisitiou assigned to it in the charts of M. de Fleu- rieu. But, appearances led M. de la Peyrouse to ))elicve, that, if SL-.ch a shoal exist, its situation must be farther westward. Ihe sea became gradually ; ivioothcr, and the winds less violent. From the lime lit which the frigates reached the 10^ of N. Latitude, it rained almost incesscntly during the clay. "J'lie hyj,u-ometer had, at no time since their departure from JLurope, indicated the presc ce of a larger proportion of moisture, in the atmospliere, iijc noxious ojipressiveness of the air, joined to the bad ijuality of their provisions, were found to relax tl)e strength and Impair the health of the ships' com- janics. 'J'o obviate these evils as much as possible, Al. de la Peytous:^ ordered coiTee to be daily served out to the suilois, made Ins slilp to be drictl and Ventilated bet veen the decks, and obliged tlie crews to kc(.p their linens clean by using rain-water to wash iheni. On the Otli of November, they caught eight lioiictas an tl a'.re'jablc ietrcs;iment to the whole c oni- 11 oil ic rs as common men, p.uii. s o: the snips, as v,e A'jout Luc ijlii, \vhtn our vowi^'ers had reached the (» BK \\\ 1' :| rlj! j ' l|,l . Ill 'il* III fli6 LA :eyrjuse's voyage 3° of N. Lat. the rains and storms ceased, and the motion of the billows becsme less tempestuous. The weather was now serene, till after the French naviga- tors had passed the equator^ on the 2ist of Novtm- ber. On the 23d they caught two sharks which afforded two meals to the crt;ws, and shot a curlicu, which was very lean, and ver) n^uch fatigurd. Nod- dies, mar of-w:ir birds, terns, and tropic-bird.s> be- gan to hover in increasing numbers around thcra, while they advanced into thfj soutliern hemisphere. In the 2" of southern l.ttltudc, the breeze by which they had been for some limc impelled,, deserted them J and only liglit airs from N. to VV. N. W. succeeded. Afraid of being driven to the leewu'd of the FKiiiNoiY IsLLS, our navigators avnllcd them- selves of these airs to gain a /itf/e cauin'r, boinc sharks and sea bin's were, in the mean time, taken, and were used at table, as a very agreeable chan;.^; of food, •iniid the long use of s,\U<;d piovIsionH. A h.fivy \ca ictli^i^ in frcm tlic w.st, made their pro- grrss, about iins time, rxtr^'mt, ly laborious. 1 licir cordage, rotten by lon>v exposure, was const-intly brtikiug. Blasts of wind, and heavy falls of rain, cume eti to ificommode their progress, till the 2il of December, at wiiich time they were in 10" 50' of southern latitude. 'I'hc winds lien becft(nc gentler, and the skies more «;crenc. I hey passed over the position In wliirii iiyron has pL. cd those which he culls the IsLts OF l>.iN'auR, without discovering Hught but scii. Next d^iy, tliev found themselves i:\ li" 34' .y,' S. I.at. in .70" 7' 1" W. I-ong. the ve- ''y parallel in which (f ROUND THE WORLD. 217 nd the . The laviga- Jovtm- whicli :uiru-u, . NocU rds, be- d thciti, LispVieie. (V w\iicli deserted . N.W. ltd thenv [T. Some le, tiiWcn. le chan^'/: iou'^. A heir pro- s. I heir :onst.inlly s of rain, ill the 2vl we j^f ntlcr, I over the wl/ich he iscoverinj; mselvcs in }t. the vc- k 1SL.AM3 of THE HandjOMe Na'^ion. But the wind was adverse to their running down that parallel, for the purpo-c 11? descrying the island. Availing thcmselvf^s, therefore, of the western breeze, which now blew, they steered for the Navigators' Islfs, so named by M. DE BoL'OArNViLLE. At three in the after- noon of the 6th of December, ihey arrived within si^ht of the most eastern t)f these i>les. Tlicy pas- sed throuoh the cliannel between the great and the Small isles which M. de lk)U)T:iinville left on the southern side of his track. At noon, in mid-chan- nel, and at a mile's distance from thr shore, they found their latitude to be 14" 7' S. 'I'hey had seen dwcllini'/, on one side of the isle, and a company of Indians seated in a circle, under some cocoa-nut trees. Yet tlie Indians launched no «:anoc.s, nor did t.:cy even follow the course of t!ic frigates .ilong the shore. The i>land rises with asj abrupt ascent, to the height of about l.'o hun- dred fathoms f»1)ove tlie level of t!)e sea. 'I he hou- ses ;tre vi'imto in llie p()'ili(Mi oi" al)OUl half way up the ascent. Some small plantations, as was suppos- ed, of vams, appeared near the h ousc.'!. At length Cwc canoes set t-n shells, wiih a very little coral In this situation, houever, tluy were protcc'cd oii ly from the c.i')tcrly wind* ', but the > .adxteud s\a.s 0m HOUND THE WORLD. 321 in all other respects, so bad, that the frigates, to the great anxiety of their masters, rolled as if they had been in the open sea. Next morning, the two commanders determined to make the utmost haste m procuring what they wanted from the isle, and to set sail in the afternoon. By the dawn of day, the islanders came around the frig.itcs, in no fewer than two hundred canoes laden with fresh provisions. Axes, cloth, and every ar- ticle of Iralhc, save beads, were still disdained by ihem. One part of the crews were employed to manage this tralKc, and to repress the forwardness .vith wliich the islanders urged themselves upon the .fhips , while the rest filled the boats with empty casks, and prepared to go ashore for water. Messrs de Clonard and Collnet, commanding the boats of La Boussole,-— wi'h Messrs de Monll and liclle- garde, conducting those of JLWstrolabe, — set out, at five oVlock in the morning, for a bay which was about a league distant from the station of the ships. M. dc lix Pcyrouse, for purposes of observation and en(iuiry, followed, almost Immediately, in his pinnace j :ind M. dc Langlc, in hi,>? jolly-buat, made an excui- ilon to anotlier bay about a league beyond the water- ing place. The creek to which ihe long- boats repair- ed for water, was huge and comniodloiir.j all the boats leniuincd alloat, at low water, within n pistol- bhot of the beach. The fresh water was easily procured, and was cxc llcnt in its quality. A line of soldiers, postei between the beach, and that crowd of natlvcH "Ahich gathered round, were easily able to maintain fj'ood order. The naMveo, mm, women, Hud tliild- • 83 ♦* 'U 223 LA PEVROUSe's V0YAC2 ren, suffered thems'jlves to be persuaded to sit down under a grove ot cocoa trees, at a si-nall distance from tlie boats. Pigeons, parrots, and other fowls, hogs, and fruit, were eai;erly offered to sale. The "Women, of wliom some we . handsome, made offer of their favours to all who had bends to pay for them. The women at last found liule dilllculty in breaking through the line of the French soldiers, ! Confusion was beginning to arise. r>ut, some of the Islanders, who seemed to be Chiefs, happily interfere .ing, restored order by an alert u'^e of their sticks. One of the natives, who had snatched a mallet from the stern of the boat, and had aimed with it several blows At the back and arms of some of th** sailors, was, by the command of M. de la Pey rouse, seiv:ed •, and cast to svvim about in the sea. 'IMic natives in jveneral, being taller and stouter built men than the I'reuch, seemed to look upon their visitors with a certain degree of contempt. To impress them with .more respectful notions of tlie power that he was yblc to exert against them, M. dc la Peyrouse pur- clnscd three pigeons, made them to be thrown up in the air, and shewed the miiUitude, how easily ihry could be brought to the grounJ by the unseen impuUe of a bullet shot from a pistol or a musket. While the casks were filled with water, M. de la I'cyruusc proceeded to visit a charming village, at the distance of about two hundred yards from the bc.'ch. It stood in the midst of a spacious grove ot frulr-trccs. The houses of the village were arrang- ed in r^ c-rcle n'hich might be an hundred and fifty toiscs in iiauKtcr, Tlic area which they inclosed^ was ciir^jclcd '.villi a rich verdure, p.«d '.haded ly ROUND THE WORL.D. 223 trees. Women, children, and old men, gathered round the illustrious stranger, and invited him to enter the houses. Pie entered one which appeared as If it were the dwelling-house of some chief. Mats of extraordinary fineness and freshness, were spread on the tloor : The rioor itself was composed of small pebbles, and raised about two feet above the com- mon level of the ground. Among other articles of furniture, M. de la Pey rouse remarked, with sur- prize, a cabinet of lattice- work, such as could not have been more elegantly executed at Paris. The building terminated In an ellipsis, the curve of which could not have been more handsomely fashioned under the directions of any European architect. A row of pllhrs, at eciual distances of fi\ ^ feet from one another, formed a cojjiplete colonnade round the whole. The pillars were formed of the truitkr of trees, handsomely wrought: And between ihcni hung mats, the cords of which were adapted to m'nc them up and down, at pleasure. The roof of the house wau covered with leaves of the cocoa-paim- tree. The soil of this isle is fertile without culture ; nnJ the climate such as to render clothing little ne- cessary. '1 he bread fi uit, the cocoa-nut, the banana, the guava, and the orange tree, grow here spontane- ously, and in the greatest abundance. Dogs, hogs, and fowls, fed upon the supcttluous plenty of these fruits, jiHurd a sullu lent variety of rich and delicate animal- food. Tlie wants of these people arc consequently few. Iron, and instruments of direct utility, they, thiifcfoic, disdained ; und accepted oiil/ beads, ob- a24 LA PEYROUSE's VOYAGft , ill 4 jects of fanciful decoration. More than two huncf- Jred wood-pigeons, with a number of beautiful par- roquets and turtle-doves, were among the animals obtained from them. These fowls were all tame, land shewed these islanders to have made a greatei- progress than the inhabitants of the Sandwich Isles, in the domestication of the winged part of the crea- tion. Had it not been for the ferocious expression in their countenances, and the scars on their bodies ) it would have been natural to conclude, that a peo- ple, seated amidst external circumstances so propi- tious, must live in perfect Innocence, felicity, and beneficence. During this visit, some trivial quarrels arose a- mong individuals of the French and individuals from among the islanders : but, no general disagreement took place. An inlander had attempted to snatch away the sabre of M. de Monneron j but, having pulled oft', unwittingly, the scabbard, ran away, affrighted, at sight of the naked blade. Others threw stones at M. Rollin, the surg-son major to the expedition. A general turbulencf .ospitality of spirit, and insubordination to their chiefs, were plainly seen to be very distlnguishii ^ features in tl;e character of tliese people. But, the prudence and patience of the Fiench avoided all extremities. A* bout noon, the Frenchmen left the isle, and returned in their boats, on board the frigates. These were turrounded with canoes. Seven or eight of the islanders were on the (luartci-deck of La Boussole. And these people were behaving here with a bold- Acss, a rudeness, and a turbulence, exceedingly V')i ROUND THE WORLD. 22; troublesome. One of tlie men on the quarter-deck, was pointed out as a chief. His authority had contri- buted already somewhat. 3 restrain the petulance of the rest, iiome presents were (ffercd to him j and the power of the French fire- arms was exhibited be- fore him, but without exciting his admiration, or impressing him with awe. Orders were now given for the fngatcs to ivci^h anchor and get under ioil. But, M. de Langle, ha- ving been greatly charmed with the scene at which he had landed j desired, with great earnestness, that the frigates should stand off and on at a league's dis- tance from the shore, till he might, with a party, revisit th-^t bay, and procure an additional quantity of fresh-water from the limpid streams which pour- ed into it. M. de Langle had a very strong par- tiality for water fresh from the strcr.m or fountain, as being much more salutary to those who should use it, than water which had been long preserved in barrels on board a ship. Provisions, too, were here to be obtained in an abundance in which tbey could scarcely be expected, elsewhere. Five hund- red hogs, a great number of fowls, a large quantity of fruit, had been procured at the trivial price of u few glass beads. With great reluctance, on account of the disorderly conduct of the islanders, I\I. de la Pcyroufe agreed to await till M. dc Lat>glc sliould accomplish his se, Deiring the niglit, the two fiigales hovered under sail, at a small distance from the shore of the isle. At day-break, there succeed- ed a Ciilin, after a stormy and uncertain night. A^ bout nine o'clock, a gentle breeze from the N, W, 'yM \ V 1 I'll IK t il ,K,fMi hijf! 226 LA PEYROUSe's voyage enabled them to advance the frigates again nearer to the isle. At eleven, they were within a league of it. Two boats from La Boussole, with the barge and long-boat of L'Astrolabe, were, %vithout delay, sent ashore, under the command of M. de L. angle, •and having on hoard Messrs de Lamanon, Colinet, Vaujuas, le Goblen, de la Martiniere, Lavaux, Re- ceveur, with a number of such of the common men out of both crews, as had begun to he affected with the scurvy, amounting, in all, to sixty-one persons. Six swivels were mounted upon the long-boats •, and the men were armed with cutlasses and muskets. Great numbers of canoes, in the mean time, came around the jhips for the sake of traffic •, and the people wore, in their countenances and manners, an air of gaiety and confidence, which tended to remove every suspicion of hostilities to be offered from them. At a quarter after one o'cloclv. the boats reached the shore. What had been supposed a capacious bay, was found to be but a creek full of coral rocks, and presenting no accessible passage, save a winding channel of five and twenty feet in width. Within that channel the boats had but, three feet of winter. The long-boats ran a-gr und. The barges were kept a- float, by being iiauled to a considerable dis- tance from the beach. Tlie tide ^vas now at ebb. It had been in flood, when this scene was, on the preceding day, examined by M. de Langle. Dis- appointed in regard t) the state of the bay, M. de Langle would have returned immediately to the creek, without accomplishing his fir^t purpose,— had it not been for the gentleness a;id order which ROUND THE WORLD. 227 appeared to distinguish the natives, in the offers which they now made, to trade with the French- men, as well from the boats as at the ships. He sent the water-casks on shore. The soldiers were arranged in two lines, to protect an avenue of pas- sage between the watering-place and the sea-beach. Water was, without delay, taken in j and the casks being filled, were successfully conveyed on board the boats. But, in the mean time, the numbers of the natives who surrounded the Frenchmen at their task, were prodigiously augmented. Petty thefts ; attempts to seize, by open force, what they could not secretly steal j with various acts of wanton in- ■iolence and mischief j began to bespeak the con- tempt of the natives, as well for the strength and numbers of the Frenchmen, as for the laws of bene- volence and hospitality. A brisk trathc still went on : and the favours of the women were, with e- jiQUgh of wanton eagerness, both offered and accept- ed. The islanders insensibly proceeded, on the shore, to assail the strangers with showers of stones ; while others of them, entering the water, attempted to seize and pillage the boats. To soothe the inso- lence and rapacity of the natives, a few beads were distributed to some few of them, who appeared to possess a superior authority among the rest. Those who were overlooked in the distribution, became, for this, so much the more outrageous. M. de I^angle was on board his boat j and the fire-arms were ready to be discharged. But, reluctant to proceed to ctremities, which 'hould occasion an effusiou of blood j he declined the use of the firc- Ij-: j* i» m ,^28 11^ lit t ■l, !ii LA PEYROUSE'S VOYAGE ? , arms, till, at least, the whole party should -have come on board the boats. The natives saw them all en- ter their boats, without offering any fatal violence. But when they saw the boats shoved off from the beach, and were aware, that the strangers, with all their beads, had almost escaped unpillaged, and without having transacted, at this time, any consl- derable traflic •, their rapacity and rage were then raised to the utmost height. They threw stones, rushed in great numbers into the water to stay the boats, and made a serious and desperate hostile at- tack upon the French sailors. Orders were given to oppose them with a discharge of musquetry, and, at the same time, to use the utmost expedition in removing the boats beyond their reach. A few of the islanders fell. But the prodigious supetiority of their numbers •, their nearness to the boats j their great strength and dexterity in hurling those huge stones, which they employed as their rais^ile wea- ])ons •, together witii the surprise and confusion of liic Trench ; made it impossible for thest: to resist tlic onset of the inhospitable islanders, without suf. fering themselves in the r.kiimlsh. M, de Langle. with the master of arms, and the carpenter belong- ing to his ship, were beaten down from the bow of the Ion ;•• bant in which they stood j and were the Hrst w!io fell. M. de Langle peii.shed under the fury of the ■.issallants ; the two who fell with him. were sull».re( 1 t o cscaiic. Tl ic 1 -liind ers, in a lc\v fc minulrs. mndc tlicinselves masters of the tivo boats which were the nearest to the beach, illevcn o- thers of the boats* crews perished with I\I. dc LaU" 1^^ ^ come ill cn- lence, na tlic 1th all 1, and consl- re til en stones, tay the itile at- e givei\ ry, and, lition in ^ few of letiority is •, their se hu.c;;c e wea- sion ot o tebl.'^t ut suf- .anglc. )elong- hozv of ere the tier the ih him, n a few o boats levcn o- Idc Lau- OS J> •'^' •illr.ti u. • !t 'l v ( vtrhoard the watcrc sks whicli had been conveyed Into the two b.iit^es j n'M\ all found means t^ escape, nlthoui'li the lor.:;; bvuits were lost. Ilavin;.r in v;?in torn up the scats d? t'ne iopif boats, in search ot" the riches which they su]^pjM-J to be h.iddcn in thcni • the i-hnricrs turned thcnisclves to attack the lnr;:;cs, when they siiw them ni'^vt:: off with dilHcuity. A dischavi^e of" fire-arnvs killed a iV^v of th.tni ; nnd, eve the re?: could approach, tiit; b.ii;';es wlvc beyond the reach ol'thilr pursait. It w s live o'clock in th.e evening' when ?he survivors came vw board the ships, with news (>t the disaster which liad cut oiV their compa- ni ns. Nuuihets ot ih.e natives weic at that linie arounU ilie ^liI['^ in canoes ; ;.od i' wis not without f.N rcir.c d:lii;-nltv that I\I. do l.i rcvro'ise couM le- s:v :n Lie s laicr * an .1 sail ors, on !)oa:d ike fri'-at I'loni !;.kin,^i, sudden ven-eance for t!:c MutrJer ot' then- slui^l)tticd co.r.ra.les, by th.e destruction of «ii the caiv'cs aioutid the m. Cut of the ishndcrs. who happuicd to be ot» the iji.artcr deck, was ar- nstfd, .nd, for si time, del?iiu-'d in irons, but wa» suirwjcii, n;-:t tl.iy, to inulse his escape, by leaplni; nveiln;.;! .1. ./\uli^l^t their iudi* naliuu for the bite of their companion . iM. dc la l\\n*use, witli iiis )(! tl oi:,ccrs, and the vv oic sups' compinies, wou'ci wil- bn^ly I'.'ivc iniji-tcil >i(ftuiJc those of the j'rench who had lost their lives in the aiVray with the iih.nders, twentv others were wounded. AlHic lion of tlio deepest and most poignant character, reigned, for some time, on bo-tid the frigates. At la.st, on the 14th, they steered away from the fatal, inlu'xpltnble shores of J\1a(»(j: a. The persons wliom they had here lost, were Messrs ni: Lan(.il", post captain und ommaniler *, 'ivrs liumon, '^{o.'H Rith//e^^ Francix Fcrirt, Lau- it'iice H(>ilHf and a C/j/'uciff, seamen ) all belonging to L'Astrolabe. Messrs 1)e Lamanon, naturalist 1 Prttr Taliiiy |,unner j Andrew lioth and ^osc/tb tittyfs^ qunrtcr- unncrs, from l.A Hot,'ps(»Li;. On the 14th of December, di parting from tbe fatal coiibt of ISIaoiinu, the I'':ciKh nnvi^Mtorb i ry (• ing '•iin, M-arJ injr ( ^;ieat ROUND THE WOKhD. 23 K took their course across a channel iiine loacjncs u\ widcncss, towards the spacious aud fertile isle ct* Oyolava. At the distance of three lea^^ues tVoiu its N. E. poI.it, they were surrounded by a great multitude ot Oyolavan canoes, which ^vere laden, for barter, wMh bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, su^ (jjar-canes, pigeons, lioj^s, &.c. In drtss, fe;itarcs, and tallr.eiis of statjrc, th': people of Oyohiva so nearly the resemblcvl those of M louna, that, at si;;iit: of them, the indignation of the Vicnch sailors for the fate of their murdered companions was awikeiicd anew. AI. de la Pcyrouse, however, quieted tliuscj an)2;ry emotions which had almost prompted his pco- jile to hostilities, at the first sijjl.t of the ()yoIa« vans. A commerce of f.vchanjre conirncncKd, ami was cair cd tjn with great briskness, und witli mu- tuul satisl'aclion, between the French auJ the is! ai- ders. Ill the course of it, the l''ien':h were m )r« careful than they had hitherto been, to rcpier;, by tlucals, ami even by bloAs, every attempt at theft, fiaiid, or violence, on the part of the natives : and thii conduct was attended with good ellect'i. la the afternoon, t!ic frigate., approaclicd a part of tho iiilc, which presented the largest village, perhaps, that is to be seen in all the i.>]und'j of the South Sea. It conMstst of hous.cs iircgularly scattered over u ve- ry extensive and gently inclining plain j und u^cend- ing even up^vards to the very summit of tiie moun- I lin, xvhich rises bcyoi.d the plain, und retiies in- wards to the middle of the isle, 'Ihc smoke hover- ing over tlie viilrtgc, seemed as If it rose fro in some gieat city Ih ic peoph-, who came out in the ca« T i (.(•-J H << *f ^i i» \ , ., ^^^. J J' f K'-l.*- *>ji. ^ u A }• :. V K o i: "ins v ', i v a r, r noes, xvrrc entirely un;;C(jUiuntcci wiih ir^Mi. A -ac- _ql;; 1)1- ..1 WIS, to llii'iu, jncli v;il)li; In ;i ii.iil six inclu-H long, or to :iii Ir.itclict. Some ot tlicin li.iJ •.I'^rcca- blc tciitures, 'I'hcir Imlr was bomul ii[) \\\{\\ a sort ('{ ;;:cc'> libbnr.d, :iiul iidonu'cl willi tlowcrs. Thtii- Jjnn was luiiulsonic ; ami cvvry thin r in ihcir w i\i)lc asptx't bi'sjKjkc sweetness ol itnitnr, and j^cnlli ncs« of fiMiincrs. 1 lie billows brcjkc .lil ;ir. iind the luiacli xvilli a violt-ncc whicn made it not salt ly acccs/ible on the nortli-sidc of the isle. In the diisl; of the e- venlni;, the canoes had retired j and the French na- vigators sailed onwards, still at no great di.'^tancc from the coa^t of the isle. A dead c'llrn prevailed during; llu: next day, wllli fief|tient llashes of light- ning, ^vl•dch were fvdlowcd by tluinleis and r.iins. It seemed '.irobable, ih it, on this day, the p-joplc of Oyolava liad received notice of the late unhnppy e- vents at IMiouna. On the i^lh, when the fri;i;ates ratnc -over-ac^ainst the island of Pola, no canoes Ciime out to vi it them : nnd from this, it was con- cluded, that the people of Pola had I'kcwise been infor.'.jed of the qi'.arrcl at Maouna, and were afiaid of fuflVring ficm the rcfientnient of the French, if ihcy should put thet^vse!v> s within their power. Po- la is a beautiful isle, somewhat smaller than Oyoin- va, from whlcli it is stparattd by a cliannel, only four lea_i;ues in wldeiess. in tlie eh inncl are two J lets ; one of which U covered wi'h wootl, nnd J haps occnpled by some inhabitants. '\'\\v. norlli coast of Pola is innccesxible to j.hippini; : lljt after tuiubling its wisltrn p int, the maiiiur ^^i!l tnttr a naoulh icn, wljich may probably alluid c\celltul ROUND Tlin VV (1 r. L I), ^33 i; mocs con- )ccn ^, iF uiily two norili aftiT ronff'Xtcads. Tlic<;e isles arc ten In number *,— Ojvjun^ I.eon^, Fanfouc, Maouna, Oyoliiva, Calunssr, Poln, Sliika, Ossntno, and Oveia. 'I'hc rcl:itivf In-ailngs of these different isles, the Fr(nch navi;^utc)rs could not, from the iiifonnition of the natives, si.ti^farto- rily ascertain. Oi'oun, the most southerly, is \\\ \.f 7' S. Lat. in 171" V7' 7" \V. Lon^;. It has been supposed that tlicse are the same isles which were discovered by Kocoicwkn in the ye ir 1721, and by him denominated HpAyMAN's Islanis. IluL every ci-cumstance led M. <\c la Pe\ rouse, and hi; ''ompnnions, to re^j^ard this supposition as j^roiindlcss, ?.nd to coiisidiM" ihein as isles unhnown to European. navip;ators, till ihc voyage of liouirainville. The natives of these isles arc a remarkably tall, robust, and well proportioned race of men. In rompaiison with the I'^rench navij;ators, they seem- rd to be, just such as Danish horses are, in conipa' rison with tiiose of France, They are nakel j but. have the body painted or t.itoocd in a manner that j^ives them the api)earancc of havin;^ clt)thes. On titeir loins they bind a L'/ndlr entwined of sea-weeds, 'I hey wear the hair loujj, and twisted rtnind the licad. They are cyofdinj^ly fei^cious and quarrelsome. The forms of the w^men «t" t;ill, (.lender, an. I not. iinjf.ruceful. liut, atnon^ all vvlion- the l"rei.i-!i na- vlj^fAtors saw, there were not ni')re ihan thrtc whotn *hcy could consider as bcii.j^ in.ly beautiful and Tiirir n;anncrs arc, in the hli'hest uuvl I '.J i;and>fonie. <.»' ;ii()!t dl«^',utinf; dcfjrcr, wnnton und immode'*. The threi:' bes^ulies. who attracted tin* notice of the '.trnn- ^":rs, wc:c rcs'.'Hy pro»?IiMted to their I'.st, <)( a Mil » Id ;» 234 LA PEYROUSf/s voyage basaltic stone, these people form tools for working in wood, wliicli. even in comparison with tlic Euro- pean instruments of iron, are far from contemptible. )ome wooden dish( es were obtained irom tliem, ri I fr exchange for glass beads, the pvlisliing of whicli was not at all less ncifcct, th:in if it: h.td been ef- fected witli an European tutniT^-looin. The mals, and some paper-stuflV, wliich tiicse people nianufac- •ture, are exceedin^^ly beautiful, and of a very inge- nious texture, neir I n^uafic appears ppt to b; a par licular dialect of that which is spoken in the ^'ocri'- TY and in tb.c LaiENnLY Islts. A person ftt«in the }irovincc of Taoavan. in the north of the island of LiCONiA, understood, aud cxpl tined to the Trencti navi;:;Htors, in whose service he was nicst of the words wliich he heard spoken at the Xai/i/ori'' /r/t.f. From tliis fact, it should seem that thc^c pec} de are, by d escen t, M AI-.\YS anci tl'.e 1 ,iiigu..go ■wljich they speak, — tlie ALiiaynn. Among from fifteen to eighteen hundred, whom the Krcnch voy- ige rs saw, to the number of iibout tliirtv seemed t) be chiefs. 'Ihc^e endeavoured to exercise a smt of auiliorlly, l:ur wcie very carelessly obeyed. They h;r.e been very properly n mu-d by IM. dc Bou- fra'nville, Na\h,at rs, They scarcely t-vcr perforin .•ny change of place, othcr'Aisc ihjin by water, and in their canoes. 'I'hcir villagrs r.re siluattd o.i ♦jrcclv^, close on the shore. And they have no i;i. tcrnal roatls from one to Jiniithtr of ihcm. All ■ these Isles, which the French voyagers visited, wcic covered, to the very tups of the iilevior Ijills, willi .fruit trees, WooJ-pigeonf, Uutlc- Jovi", pTtroqnctr, ROUND THE WORLD. 235 voy- d t ) sovt ycfl. F.ou- :'.n'l a ( ,. Ml vi Willi blackbirds, partridges, of very beautiful and singu- lar varieties, were very numerous amon^ these woods. About the houses were great numbers of tame wood- pigeons. '1 heir canoes have outn\^crSy aiul are generally of a size incapable to contain more than five or six persons ; though some indeed will admit to the number of fourteen. Their course is not exceedingly rapid j under sail, not more tiian seven knots an hour •, rowing, such, that thcv could not kct'p way with the Frencii frigate, sailing at the rate 01 only four miles an hour. Sometimes two of these canoes are joined into one, by means of a trans- vvtse piece of wood, in which is put a step to re- ceive a ma^t. The sails are of matting, extended by a sprit. The sweep net, and the hook, and line, aie tlicir onlv instruments for fishing. '1 heir baits are of mother-of-pearl and of wliite shells, very skilfully wrought. The bails arc in the form of a ilving fish, and have a iiook of tortoisc-shtll attacli- td to them, which is of sulllcient strength to drag tiut a tunny, bonela, or ('.orado, 'Ihese Isles seem lo lie all of volcanic oiigln. On tj-.e beach appear- ed no stones, but pieces of lava, basaltcs, cr coral. In all ihw creeks, the sides arc usually filled up ulib coral, which leaves in the middle just a narrow than- ju. 1, suMicient to admit the canoes to pass and repHSf, 'J"he*.e canoes are so li);ht, as to be easily borne, one on tl»e hhnuldcrs of two men. Nor are they usual- ly left in tlic water, but dtpoiited under the shade ol trees near the dwellin^r^. No situations can be \\.u\'\i agrr rablo than those of the vllUtjcs in thee i&lcii The houses stand u;: the batiks of slieunikts 't ■ 11 %\ 11 236 LA PEYROUSe's voyage descending from the hills, under the shade of fruit- trees, by the sides of path-ways leading into the in- terior parts of the isles. Each house is sufficiently spacious to lodge even several families. They have moveable doors or windows, which are let down to exclude the sun, and pulled up, on the opposite side, to admit the fresh breezes. Hogs, dogs, fowls, birds, and fishes, famish a rich abundance of animal food to the inhabitants of these isles. The cocoa, the guava, the banana-tree, with another tree which bears a chesnut-like fruit, that is roasted for eat- ing, supply an abundance of wholesome fruits. Su- gar-canes, of an inferior quality, grow spontaneously on the banks of the rivers. In Maouna, Messrs Martiniere and Colignon made a short botanical excursion. But the natives exacted a glass-bead for every plant they <;athcred ; and, even under this condition, would hardly permit them to bring off \vhat they collected, in safety. Clubs, arrow-like lances, and stones vvhicii they were skilled to throw with great force and dexterity, were the offensive weapons of these people. I he population of thesp isles is probably very considerable in proportion to their extent. IVlaouua, I'ola, und Oyolava, arc cer- taiiily among the most beautiful of all the isles of the Southern Ocean. M. de la I'cyrouse would glailly have gone ashore on Pola. liut, after sucli experience of the inhospitable temper of the native?, it would have been imprudent to send any part of the crews ashore, unarmed j and so strong were still the resentments of the sailors, that going on lir.vl 1^iUl arms in their hands, they hardly could have ic- m ROUND THE WORLD. 237 frained from em|iloyincr these against the islanders, even without new provocation. For this reason, IVl. de la Pey rouse resolved not again to cast anchor, till he should reach Botany Bay. After sailing alon^r the western coast of Pol.i, the French navigators lost sij;ht of land. They endea- voured to sail in a 5^. S. Vl. direction. An E. 8. E, wind, at fii-iit. opposed their proo;res5. Its bhit'iin^, however, soon suffered them to make way agreeably to their wishes. On the 20th they came within sight of a round isle, precisely S. from Oyolava, and about forty leagues distant from it. On the day following, they arri\'ed within two leagues of its coast. Two other i^les were now also descried, to the souiiuvard ', which phainly appeared to be the Cocoa and Traitor. Islands of Sciiouten. Cocoa Island towers up to a great ekvati. n, in the form of a sugar-loaf. It is nearly a league in diameter j •and trees cover it up to the v- ry summit. A chan- nel, of about three leagues in breadth, intervenes betv.'fcn this and Traitor's Isle which is low and flat, with only one hill of moderate height in the middle. A channel, about an hundred and fifty fa- tlionis wide at its mouth, intersects this isle Into two parts, so that it is properly two isles, not one, tis has been hitherto fancied. 1 he weather was un- favourable •, and no canoe came out immediately from Traitor's Island. 1 he fiigatcs hovered near, during the evening : at eight o'clock in the morning, they approached to within two miles of the bottom of a sandy bay. About twcuty canots soon left the •»l>orc, and approached the frijales. They were la* 'tn S'^ I-';* ■KH I'Vi 1 n:)LY Isles 1: to ih c nortn o f 1 NAMOOKA, as hud becu IcU uucxploitd by Cook., ROUND THE WORLD. 239 CHAP 'ER TW I. F'fH. NARRATIVE OV THE VOYAGE CONTINUED, FROM THE 23. OK DECEMBER I787, TO THE END OF JANUARY I788. (OURsE FROM THE NAVIGATORS* ISLES TO BOTANY-BAY. ACCOUNT OE THE ISLAND OF VAVAO. TRAtllC WIT« THE PEOI'LK OF TONGATABOO. DESCRIPTION OF NOR* ) ULK ISLAND, &C. A STORMY night succeeding the day of their depar- ture from I'raitor's Island, retarded and endangered iheir progress, biich of the ctew as had begun .o feel nn incipient scurvy, now suffered exceedingly from tlic moisture in the atmosphere. A man of the name of David^ the gun-room cook, died of a scorbutic dropsy. IMolasses and spruce-beer, are considered as the most efficacious preservative against scurvy. lu these hoi climates, the companies continued to drink these articles at the rate of a bottle a day to each peison, with half a pint of vvine, and a small glass of brandy, greatly diluted with water. The hogs ob- tained from Maouna, proved but a transient resource. They could neither be sciltcd nor preserved alive. On this account, fresh pork \vas, for a while, seivcd out, twice a day, to the crews. And, while this last- ed, all the swcllingb of the legs, and the other symp- toms of scurvy, began to disappear. 'I'he N. N. W. wauls followed iheni beyond the I'licndly Isles i Merc alvvays accompanied with rain j and blew as liard as the westtrii gsUes ou the co^st of iiritauny. '■ -.f I m m 240 LA PEYROUSE's voyage n On the 27th of December, they discovered the island of Vavao. Its western point bore precisely W. at noon, when their latitude was :8" 34'. Its existence was known to Captain Cook, only from the report of the people of the other Friendly Isles. It is almost equal In extent to Tongataboo •, and being of lottier elevation, Is more copiously supplied with fresVi v.ater. liiis isle had been befoie seen by the Spanish Captain Don Antonio Maurelle. It is surrounded by a number of other isles, by which the number of the Friendly Isles, originally made known by the English, Is almost doubkd. I\I;ui- relle made this discoverv in the course of a vovacre from Manilhi to Chili, in which he ivas induced to enter these latitudes in search of westerly winds. He called X'avao, with Its surrounding islets, the Is- LANDS OF Matorca : to Mai'PAee, and the Islets lyin,:! around it, he gave the name of the Islands of Cal- ves. 'J he names employed by the n.itives them- selves, have been pnservcd in tl.c map of the French navigators. On tlie 27th the French frigates ^vtrc at a smidl distance \V. N. W. from Vavao. Dur- ing the night, they advanced so far, that, on the morning, they coald sec ihe RIagura of Maurelle, at the distance of twelve or fifteen leagues eastward. 'i'owavdi noon, on the same day, they were at th',- entrance of that part of Vavao in which MaurelL had anchored, it is iornicd by small isles, Iniving between them narrow, l.ut very deep passngf-s, and aftbrdipTf entire slitl'.er agaii:.^t the winds hlcwino from the '^l-i'ig- ivii^.ny circumiitances invited o-.ir voya^LTs to come to an :.nclK>r h.ere j but rtilection ROUND THE WORLD. 241 the Is- !< lyinij; Gai-- them- ''rcnch Is wei'c Dur- )n the irelle, ItWArd. at th'; lurello and i O'.iV 'ectioo upon tVie danj:rers to which they mi'^ht be exposed, from the rapacity of the natives, determined thenx aj^ninst it. No canoes came from the isle to traffic The weather was threatening, and already stormy. Our navifjalois, therefore, bore away for the is]:3nd of Latte, at twenty leagues distance. The night which ensued, was dreadful with pitchy darkness and storms. When dav returned, the storms vvere rather heig^htened than allayed. The frij^ates were now steered to wiihln two leagues of the island of Lattc. Bur here, before any canoe could come out, the sails were so much overpressed by a blast, that our navigators were compelled to steer away for the islts of Kao and Toofoa. They passed near these isles, but were, at first, prevented by the mists from discovering them. At five o'clock in the evening, the weather liecnme fair •, and Kao was discerned lising with a lofty conical elevation. I hrough the night, our navigators conti:med to hover near these isles. At vun rise, on tlie following moining, both Kao and Toofoa were clearly seen. Passing with-- in half a league of Totitua, tiie Frencii voyagers per- ceived it to be uninli;ii)ited. It is precipitously inounta'nous •, about four leagues in circumference ^ and wundtd up to its summit. It Is probable that the people of Tongat.iboo, ad t!ie other Friendly Isles, may often resort bither in the summc-r, to cut Ujwn wood, and construct their canots ^ since none but fruit- bearing trees grow upon the isles which they inhabit. As our voyageis passed near the .shore of this isle, they could discover several slides or inclined planes, destined for the purpose of ad- U /« ■ ,. f' .1 ■rf 2^2 LA PEYROUSe's voyage It 1 mitting the trees cut above, to roll easily down the declivity to the sea shore. I Iiey next continued their course towards the two small isles of Hoonga- voNGA and Ho nga happale. Looking back upon Kao and Toofoa, these isles seemed to them as u- nited, so that Kao formed the summit of Toofoa. Kao is about three times as h'gh as Toofoa ; its sunin."t may seem the peak of a volcano : its base is apparently le*;s than two miles in diameter. To- Avards mon they arrived within sight of the two isles of Hoonga-tonga and Hoonga happaee. Near to these is a very dangerous reef of rocks, two leagues in extent, — in direction, neatly N. b/ W, nnd S. by E. having its northern point five leagues N. from Iloongn. happaee ; its southern point three leagues N. from Hoon(;a tonga •,— -forming, with the two isles, a strclght three leai?,ue8 bruad, ai'd not laid down in the charts of any former navigH- tors. Its breaker^' were seen, by the Frenci) voya- gers, to rl-e mt untalnlii;.;h, as they sailed ?lon^; ,ii a league's distance to the wesuwaid. Hoontja-lon- ga and lloonga-hiippaee are ui.inhabitajle rocks, so hlj^h as to be visible at fifteen Ifavjufs dist.incc. 'i'hcir form change-^ every motiienl to ihc view, as you advance ;owin('', or rcti'c from, liiem. 'I'hty scf »nc(l to be, «•„(.!', \vs^ than Iialf a league in cir- cumference. ^\ thitnncl, i« league broad, — and in the (Uuction of K. N. 1'.. a-u! \V. 8. W. divides tiicm from one^ unotlrv. 'I hey He ten leagues Ni trom the 1 JW IS le '/f 'J'oSGAT aROO. 1 hi» isle w; IS •ten by our navtg»tors un tlie ,^ist of Dfcrmbcr. Only the tnp« of its irccs wcift at fir»t vi.ilJ'? ; anl ROUND THE WORLD, 24: these appeared, ns if they haJ their rocts In the wa- ters. As they approached, the land appeared to rise for about two fathoms abf)ve ihc level of the «iea. With a nortlierly wind, the frigates steered for the soutliern coast of this isle. 'I'hey foLind it to be approachnUle, witliout dant^er, to the distance of only three musket shots. Close on the shore the ?ca was sceri to break with j^rcat fury, ilcautiful orchards, and trees skirling fields of cliarming ver- dure, appeared over the whole interior surface of the iile. Not a fingle hil' was to be seen j all was flat, as the surface of the sea in a calm. I'he huts of tht n-'tlvcs were scattered over the fi' Ms, not col- lected Into villages. Seven or eight canoes were 8Jon launched out from the isle, and b-nt their course toward the s'up'j. But they were ill navigat- ed , and) though the water was smjoth, cauld not come close to the frigates. At the dist-ancc of eiglit 01 ten futhonns, the islanders leaptd overboard from their canocc, and swam to the French »hips. In their hands they held cocoa nuts, which th'y very honestly gave in exchange for hatchrtj, nails, and other bits of iicn. Alutual confidence, to a very high degree, sooit took place between these islanders and the French voyngers. A yt'ung man among the foi mcr, saying, that he was the son of Feonji;, rbtained, on this account, v.jrious presents, with which he appeared 'o be exceedingly I'ratificd. lie urged the strangers to comr to .m anohor 't the shore of the i«>4e ; promlsinij that ihry should there obt ain provliions in great wbu » Jince. Thes** i«. laodtii., in general, were noisy, but without that fc. U 1 I' '11 I. it m ^M «jr jH rm ' ^&*c^^^Bi 244 i-A rLYRO use's vovace rocily uliich iriMrked the manners of the natives of the Nnvigatois' Isles. They are inferior, also, in ^i:'.e a«d vit^our, to the jicople of the Navi;^'ators' Isles. 'I hey appeared to possess no arms but fxiiuw- f)atfjivs } \m.\ these uere so ^mall, that several of them V'hich the Frenchmen bouc;ht, \vel;;heij not more than oncthird of the uei^ht of n />nrjivf>a.'(yiv from Maouna. 'i'licyc people, as vve!l as those of Cocoa and J'raitor Isles, are wont to cut ofl" two joints from the little finf;er, in token of sorrow for the h ,ss of near relations. All the iniei course be- ttvecn the Frrnchnun and the pco|»le of Toncint^hoo was confined to a sinnrle visit. I he refrefhmcnts obtaincr, were very slight. 'J lie astronomical ob- servations which were here made by M. D.igelct, coincided ncaily with those of Cook. On the ist of January, hopeless of obtaining here n sulhcient supply of piovi>ions our nivi^^ators resolved to con- tinue thtir course, w'tlioul farther delay, towards the W. S. W, ind to proceed to Botany Bat, by a track which no navii^'ator had as yet pursued. The wind, however, shifting from N. to W. t), W. o- bliged them to stretch southward. On the morn- ing of the id of J.inuary 17S8, they p*rcrived the J'Li; oil Pylstaart, the discovery of TanMn, it< greatest bieudth i» a qMarter of a lcHi;ue. It is iilccp : on its north eait side are a few tiers : it ran only serve as n retitat for n'juatic biids. Its latitude was found by M. U.i^clet to be 22'* 22' S. Koi three d;iys, the French frigates were detained by culm*, within siglit of tins isle. On the 6th, the tiade-wirds arose from the ta>t j the »kie« were of mi bi th h.i h;< wl set ha ROUND THE WORLD. !45 darkened j and t1ie billows began to roll tempestu- ously hl^h. These breezes, accompanied with hea- vy rains, and an obscure horizon, continued to blow till the Sth. Steady and strong breezes then arose from the north-c.Kt to the south-east ; the weather became dry ; and tlie sea \vas excessively agitated* Wlicn they had pissed the latitudes of all the isles, th e winds resume d th eir re guh .f th pcrature or the ua* became now nlso colder r course. h 'I he tern- )ld« On the I -ith they arriv Ithin sight of Norfolk. Is- land, :\nd of two otl.w ^lets lying contiguous to Its r.yiithcrn extremity. Approacliing its coast, they found t. e water sulliciently smooth j and were therefore induced to cast anchor in twenty-four fa- thoms depth of water, over a bottom of hard sand and coral. Close upon the shore of tlie isle, the seit was seen to break. v\i:h fuiy. i\I. de Clonard was therefore sent Oiit to discover, whether the boats might noi find safe shelter behind sonic of the rocks wliich skirted the coa*>t. He stood towards a sort of inlet bctwern two points at the northern extre- mity of the N li ccast ol the isle. But a surf, breaking on the iccks, was soon found to renier that inUt in iccesiblc. Ihcv cot.Hte : alou'i within half a nlU^ket-shot from the shore, for the space of half a league, but still vsithout finding a single "-pot nheic they might land. A natural wall of lava was seen to buriound tlie isle. The lava a^'pearing to have (lowed fri»m the lun^mlt of t!:c mountain, to have cuolid in its do»cent, nod to have formed n sort of roof, projecting .^cvtr.il ftct over the coast oi the isle. Kvcn il thev cjuld have landed, vet^ i>i<(- nal from D j^n'^dUile^ at this time, gave the alarm that she was on iue. A boat was instantly dispatch- ed to the assistance of the people on board her. But liapplly l)efore the boat had proceeded half way, a second sliinal from 1/Astiolahe, rave notice that the fire was extinguished. A box of acids, and o- thcr chemical IVjMors, had, by takino fire spontane- ouOy, occasioned the alarm. 'I hat box being thtowu overboard, lemovtd the danger. Norfolk. Island rises abrupily for about seventy or eighty toises above the level of the sea. Iti I" nc s scrm to be (»f the same sort ns iho'C of New- Calkhonia and Nkw Zkalano. Of the cabbage- bearing palms, which Coi k found on this isle, there irerc none seen by the rrtnch navigators. It is iminhabi'.ed, save by sea-fowr*> particularly trojiic- birds with long red feathers •, brwibits and gulli irere likewise seen upon upon it, in great num!)ers. 'lo the norlhward, the eastward, and perhaps hU around this isle, there extend»,n bank of s.ind, ovcv ■which the depth of the water i^ but between twenty V •I'tl ROUND THE WORLD. 247 and thirty fathoms. Some red-fish were can;jht by our voyagers ovcragainst this isle, which afforded them an excellent repast. At eip;ht o'clock in the eveninpr, they resumed their course *, sailing, first, \V. N. W. afterwards bearing away gradually S. W. by W. The bottom was found, by frequent sounling"?, to be even j and the water became con- tinually deeper in proportion as they receded from the land. At eleven in the evening, they were ten miles W. N. W. from the most northern point of Norfolk Island, and could find no bottom with a line of sixty fathom*;. The wind was at E. 8. E. with frequent darkening blasts, in the intervals be- tween which, the sky w;is tolerably clear. At day- break, they held with full sail towards Botany- Bay, from which they were not now more than three hun- dred leagues distant. In the evening of the I4thj they sounded with a line of two hundred fathoms, without finding bottom. The wind conlinued to blow horn l''.. S. E. to N. E, till they came with- in sight of Nfvv Holland. (Jn the 17th, in :^i" 2&' S. Eat. in 1 s9" ij' E. Eong. they were sJjrround- cd by flocks of gulls, which ie i them to suspect the vicinity of some rock or island. I'hcse birds fol- lowed them to within eighty lcaj;ucs of New Hol- land J and had probably come from some uninhabit- ed island which our voyager* had passed without observing it. Within eight leagues of Botany Bay they at last found bottom under ninety fathoms drjuh of water, after having, every evening, tou id- cd w"th .1 success with a li;ie of two hundred fi-. ♦horns, since thtir departure froA the c(m*i cf Nor- 4' 2^1 LA PEYROUSE VOYAGE I '^' i I folk Island. On the 23CI of January, they arrived with si_^ht of Bot:iny B^y. Tiie land is not of any extraordinary elevation i and is scarcely visible be- yond the distance of twelve Ica'jfues out at sea. In their near approach to the Bay, they met with cur- rents by which they were continually drifted south- ward from their reckoning. On the 24th they plied for the whole day to windward, in si^ht of the Bay, without beinir able to double Point Solander. This day, they perceived an English Hect at anchor in Botany Bay ; and could discern its colours and pen- dents. At nine on the mornini,; of the 26th, they dropped anchor in seven fathoms water over a but- torn of grey sand, ahrcnj} of the fccond hay. An English lieutenant and midshipman came on board, as tliey entered the mouth of the channel j inform- ed the French commander, that they were sent by C 'ptain l-'uNTiiR. ommanding the Sirius English fiigate •, and making oft'er of every service which Captain Huntlr's circumstances could permit him to rcndei them. Deserters from the English set- tlement, which wa% at tlis time just forming under Governor Philips, afterwards gave the French no small trouble. The ! njrlish having gone from Botany Bay to Port Jack.^ n. M de la Pcyrouse halted for some lime in that ha\ . A sort of intieiichment with |)a.l sadtN was formed on shore, for the purpose of securing th- Freiuh durln. their slay, from the mis- chit vnus iittacks of the natives. 'I'hcse people threw spcais at them, afttr itceiving their presents and c^rcMcs. It wus the d'.ttrmiuHtiun of the French theii ral R] knovvi Boii^ Lone tain . been *vhich B(jwci "f La we pov »"i" unc ROUND THE \VORLD, 225 vcd any 5 be- lli cur- juth- plied Bay, This lor in d pen- , they a bol- An board, inform- ent by n^lis>H which it hitn •.sh set- lo under ;ncU no Bay to Tor homc hit will) Irpose of the roib- |k threw •i\ts and French commander to sail from Botany Bay on the 15th of March 1 ,SS •, and he had hope.; of aniving, in the month of Deceml^tr, at the Isle ok Fkance. M. de Clonaid was iiere atlvanccd to the command of L'Astrohibe. From tills station were ti aiistnittcd home the la'^t letters atid journals wliich have been received in France fiom the unfortunate La Pty- d tl rou^^e, aiul the compations or liis \'oyat(e ofh nav Kvery thing concurs to persuade us. that they all, pciishcd by shipwreck. No accounls lave )cen obti unci conccrninrr th cm. Capt am UowEN, in December 1791, on his return from l*oit Jackson to Bombay, perceived, on the coast of Nkw Georgia, in the eastern ocoan, the wreck of a ^hlp which he judged to be of French constiuction, float- ing upon the waters. From the signs of the na'ivts, he learned that European ships had touched on their coast j and he perceived, in their hands, seve- va\ articles of iron and glass-ware. Tlie only ships known to have navij;atcd these seas, are — those of Bougainville, — the Alexander.— the Fiiendship of London,— those of La Pcyrouse,— and that of Cap- tain Bowen. As the rest arc known not to have heen wrecked in these seas •, the only infcrcicc which remains, U\ that the wreck xvhich Captain Bowen sa r, must have been the wreck of the ships of La Pevrou^f. I his is the only probability which we possess concerning tiie fate of this great naviga- tor and his companions. imBLE fn i' w 00 ca h a, O h Bi ?1 u •• t< ■' en ►-^ o c ROUND THE WORLD. 251 00 b, O 0^ a, C ^3 C Li h o c ■>; a, -^ to f^O ^ ^o "2 r* "> "^ >o "!*• "^ "s *T "^^ ''i "^ r* 't "-, C« 'O r-* t^ ^, wrj » 00 r-~ t^ r io vo ") 00 »^0O r> ", d 0f-»"-i>-Or*0''5 rO r< N c< "o "^ «0 •- 1^ *' >o r- o :o 00 f~~ ■' fo iH »<■ ", \r "" f- '^ r* i^i "" -". M "T k^. >00^, O«ol t^»^00 I »^00»oO*'^Ow^«.'. ■^s 7J ro -1 r»^ I - - o o I V «*; "5 "I ro ^ "; •!• "« ^ vo t^ n>, r^ I 1^ f^ f» r^ 1 VO f^-f vO>C t~t>.i-t :4 •3 r^ w rj- — »f f*> .., wi r* r*) H "t «0 ''^ >'■. 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CJ 1 1 11 III 1 1 1 ^ 1 1 2 II a° 1 1^ «<> o M M i J^^l ^ II r:^^ 1 00 o o o q^l .n 1 1 '^^ lo 1 OO 00 !« w^ w-> >/^ N M M W M M M • 1 03 O 1 r 1 1 ° ?o 1 O OsO •3 I • >>1 ^-1 ^1 1 ;r?i 1^00 00 citi :fl r^^l O M -^ w-» w>> »o i M 9k o - « rt «<> * «o>o r> 1^ t4 H rn to ^ ^ . » «0 «- M 1- ^ •f ■•• b« 2 9. «« * 1 u 3 O *5 rt ♦-< u i/> o 4.i « ;» to 4-t • VN 1— » > rt C • M k4 u OJ c Oh u «J 1^ 4J U^ -Uj B • M ^ 4-1 a is h4 1 1 c J3 1^ • p^ 4-1 V c c •J r<4 rt 3 e u o 4-« u rt bO -a -a c w > t M O c ■1 o o ♦-J 6 u *-> B > 6. fcc rt "^ u *5c .a >^ •? «J »-« w Id a b4 •5f «r> bc o ^ 3 •^ -u Oi <« u il k A SVL ABSTRACT or A NARRATIVE OV S3 AN INTERESTING VOYAGE FROM %J^ i >| JMANILtA, THE CAPITAL OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, TO San Blaz, on the western coast of Mexico ; which •WAS PERFORMED IN THE YEARS I78I AND I782, BY THE Stanisii Frigate La Princesa, under the command op m iffi DON ANTONIO MAURELLE: (transmitted to FRANCE IN MANUSCRIPT, AMONG Tilt PAPSRS OF M. OE LA PeYROUSE.] I :;i I,*' V O Y A G E ot DON v\NTONIO ^fAURELr>K. ♦'■^ '■1 IN tliC month of August in the year 1781, the PRtKCiTSA frigate was fitted out by the governor of Manilhi, for an expedition of wliich the desipm was liept secret, I'he command w?s intrusted to Don Antonio Maurelle j and he received, at the same time, a sealed pacl^ct, which he was ordered not to open, till he should be ten leagues of distance out at sea, from the port of Covite, He put to sea on the i^th of August. On the 25th, at the prescrib- ed distance from Cavite, he opened the packet ; and found it to contain instructions directing him to re- juir to the port of Sisiran, on the eastern coast of Luconia, and there await the farther orders, of Go- vernment. Adverse winds and calms soon inter- vened to retard his progress. W hilc he wroLi(;ht to windward, a current from the po'nt of K^carscOf carried the vessel backwads. (.)n the 2(jth, at two o'clock in the morning, i)c w.is obliged to tasL an- chor near that point. On tiie 30th, at half after tlirce in the morning, the win»! cliangcd to the west, uitli a degree of vioh nee uhich djovc tlie frigate from her anchors. At leng'h, with grc.it dJl'iculty, and with the loss of some anchors and cables, the , jint was doubUd, At tight o'clock, on the even- 262 VOYAGE FROM MANILLA ing of the 31st, they came to anchor under shelter of the isLmd of Tiaco. On the ist of September, they proceeded on their course. About six o'clock in the evening of the 2d. they reached the harbour of S18IRAN. On the 3d, Don Antonio Maurellc came to ta- chor, and moored the vessel in the best manner p()<>^ siblc, as he was here to aw-iit the final orders of the Governor of IVIainlU. In the interval, he endea- voured to discipllae his crew, that they might be prepared to resist any hostile attack in the course of their destined expedliion. He wrote also, to in- form the _f7ovcrnor of his arrival at Sisivaa j and to request his farther orders. Contiguous to Sisiran are some very high moun- tains, which const?aitly preserve much humidity in the climate, and appear to occasion violent hurri- canes, which are frequent here. The wetness of the weather began already to affect the seamen of the Princesa with disease j and one man died dur- ii.g their delay here. The nearest inhabited parts of the island are at more than thirty leagues of dis- tance from Sisir.in. Steep mountains, and passes occupied by the savage natives, lie between. Here, the Spanish captain found the utmost dilliculty to procure the refreshments requisite for a voyage of considerable length. Tlie Alcade of the province, at the request of Mr Maurelle, furnished him with cables to replace those which had been lost. An- chors, however, were not here to be obtained. On the loth of November, an oilicer arrived, and put into the hands of Captain Maurelle, a large bo <, TO SOUTH AMERICA. 263 I' .' ■■" » i moun- llty In [hurri- ss of n of dur- parts ■ dis- misses -lere, ty to ge of vince, with An- il, and e bo rmer navigator had tried. Zeal for ihe service of his sovereign, how- ever, animateu V.Ira to encounter every difficulty. His personal (' vpcrience had acquainted him with these seas as far as to New Britain. The charts of M. de Bougainville and others, v,'ere adapted to af- ford him s(jtne farther dlrtction. Unfortunately, In the port From which he was now to sail, It was impossible to obtain an aderpiate supply of the ne- cessaries for the VON age. 'i'heir bread began al- ready to be exceedingly injured by insects. Of v.'ater, they could not conveniently stow more on board than sev:-nty pipes and forty barrels. The cord:ige wis very infirm, in want of t ir, they were obliged to accept pitch. In the very outset of his vcvrtiip, Captain Maurelle saw it necessary to pre- pare for encountering caL.mltlc's In the course of it, €' J, i' fe n ;2(54 VOYAGE FROM MANILLA I On tlie 2rst day of November, 1780, the ^lacc- sa frigate sailed from the port of Sisirau for vSaa Blaz, on the western coast of America. She was wafted by fine breezes from the E. N. E. and E. Mr Maurelle endeavoured to get to the northward. On the 30th, he found himself in 16*^ 14' N. Lat. The winds and high swelling seas retarded the pro- gress of the vessel, and at times diverted her from her course, so that, on the 9th of December, she was still within sight of the island of Catanduanes, one of the Philippines. Tolerably fresh breezes from the south and west, now enabled them to run to the eastward til! the 14th of December. New va- riations of the wind soon o^^liged them to run to I'ne southward. The charts uhich they had on board, represented different i.lrinds none of which appear- ed as lying within sight of the tract over which they passed het'veen the 18th and the 21st. But, the short and heavy billows which now rolled a- round th^m, were such as mu't ccrtditily have been produced by the proximity of the Carolinil Islls, or the New FaiLippiNK"^, i'hcy crossed the Lini: on the 29th, and ent*. red the southern hemisphere. Mr Maurelle s 111 made It his ))riucipal obj; ct to steer southward, till he mi^lu f.dl in with the west- erly winds, such as arc naturally to be expected in high latitudes *, yet varied his course in complIrti.ee with the frequent variati las of ti^e breeze;s to wi.ich he was, in the mean time, exposed. In this course, many large trunks of trees, birds of difiw-reiit spe- cies, boobie*, and ihuse fjv.li which the bpauiuiJ.^ TO SOUTH AMERICA. 265 or Saa he was and E. :lnvard. L Lat. .lie pro- er from she was \ho earnestly craved food from the ISpanish sailors. Some cocoa-nuts, with a few pie- ces of biscuit, were thrown out to tliem, and vora- ciously acccj)ttd. With long hatchets which they bore, they made every eftort to drag away a net with some garden-stufVs, which they saw suspend>d from the poop of the frigate. Their weapons were slender arrow- like darts, pointed with clumsy (lints. 'I'luy had also fishing nets. It should seem th;it they live in a conditiun of extreme misery. Fish- ing is undoubtedly their piinclpal resource fur the jncars of subsistence. To the largest of these isles, Captain Maurcllc gave the name of Don Joslimi Basco. Of those twt), wliith lay the farthest to the to the South, he gave to the most westerly, the iiame of San IVIi(;uel j to the most easterly, tijat of jkSLis IMaiua. To two other isles, at two miles dli- tpnte, along the coasts of which the fiig.ite sailed,— he gave — to the mojc easterly the name of San Ra- phael, — to the more westerly, that of San (jadiuil. A number tf other islc!> contiguous to these, t«iual- TO SOUTH AMERICA. 267 iMfM ly nttracted the notice of IVIr Mauitile, while he sailed on j and were distint^uished by lu-w names. On the 1 2th, after passinir within view of a very small islet, he ^descried the isle of Matthias, which the French cliirt places to the north of New Bri- tain. Saili \l^^ omvards, in the same direction, tl le^ discovered, at lcn'4tli, the French Isle of bTORMS, almost oncealed from observation, by means of the fo);s in which it was involved, and of the rain and blasts of wind which they met with in its vicinity. On the 13th of January, an extensive coast nro.>.e to view. Clouds, (oy,s, and tornidoc.i, filled the south- ern hemisphere of the horizon. In this st:ite of tiie weather, it was dilhcult to distin^fuisli what liiid this coast might be. Yet, judging from all appear- ances, it could hardly be other than that of Ni:\v Britain. Continuing their course, they daily dis- covered a diversity of i^lets, which they believed to be hitherto unki to El ill .nown last they came within fi^^ht of nine islets, which they supposed to be the Outo.no-Java of the French chart. These isles were perceived to be surround- td by a sand-bank, which was not visible beyond the distance of two miles from the shore. Near the edges of the bank, several small rocks raiie their heads disccriiibly above the water. On the southern side of thii bank, is a narrow opening, op- ])0site to which Mr Maurtllc found the latitude to be 4" ^3', at two cables' lcn«;th from the entrance. The entrance le>\ds to a «,'ulph, in which the sea is entirely caini^ and where sliips may sifely ride at uuchur, duriiijj tlie time necessary to t.ikc in wood \ i I. !■; m 'lli .268 VOYAGE FROM MANILLA and water. To the north, this gulph is sheltered by the islets. '1 he Spnni^h cominnndcr gnve it the name of Puerta i.\ I^rincksa. From these islets, more than sixty canoes came out to within a mus- ket shot of tlic frit^atc. Init the wind, at thiit in- stant, blew loo favourably to leave it e!iifiblc for the Sjianiaids to wait their nearer approach. On the islets fippc.ir«,'d palm irces, the fruit of whicii, with the |irodiice of their ii'^hinj^s, arc their only probable means for support. I'^roni Outonj^- Ja\'M, the Princesa ^va,s carried on- ward by winds wliich, duiiiig the ilay, v.crc gentle and favourable, but became violent in the night. A- midst so many isles, tlie progress by nif;ht was ex- ceedingly d-angcrous ; i)Ut the whole ship*s company were vigilant, and h.ippily proceeded without sud- den misfortatjc. O;^ the night of the 22d, they ob- served the billows to break with terrible fury on a shoal of rocks, to which tliey gave the name of The Snorer, and bore away fiom it with all po>.si- blc haste. Durin;^ the remaining part of January, the winds blew faintly, varying between the points of N. N. VV. and N. E. 'I'hese occasioned the fri- ^jatc to tend, in its progress, still farther and farther sjuthward. Efforts uerc, from time to time, made, but with little success, to bend their truck, as they went on, again towards the Line Seeing the voy- age thus prol'jngcd, Captain INlaurellc, from the 30th of January, used the precaution of lessening, by two ounces, tlie daily allowance of bread to each man. On the i6lh of February, findinir that the wwnthrr did not become more favourable*, thattluy ;!f'4 voy- |> eacll ir ilic ll tlilV TO SOUTH AM K MCA. cfip were still far distant from the place of thtir destina- tion J and thfit there did not now remain on board pre- visions for more than tliree months : ht thought pro- per to reduce the total daily allowance to two-thirds of what it had hitherto been. The ship was unhappi- ly infested wiih cock- roaches, wliich committed the most destructive depredations on the casks of bis- cuit. IVIany of the water-caFks had aUo leaked out the greater part of their contents, and had become cntiri:ly unfit for iurtlier use. I\Ir IVIaurelle was, therefore, induced to make sail for Sojlomon's I">- LANDS, In order to replace the water which he had lost. But the north easterly winds blowing v'ithout interruption, still drove the vessel, in spite of every elfort, southward, (hi the 20th of Tcbruary, they were seventeen leigues westward fiom Cace Santa Crc/, or Gl'adalcavar. JUicczcs from the K. N E and E. soon made them lose all hopes of gainin^j Solomon's Isles. It was determined, aa the last re. souice, to proceed farther southward, till they should fall in with those isles of joy and abundance, whicli have been so much celebrated by the English navi- i;.itors. The sailors heard the determination witli extraordinary joy. A small island was seen on the i6lh of Eebiuary ; and, there, they inst mtly flatter- ed themselves, tliat llicy should meet the ample matilication of their wishes in th- relief of iheii* wants. But this isle was utterly l^arren j nor did its coast art'ord anchorage for n shij»'s boat. In the bitterness of their dissappointment, they jjavc it thr: inauspicious name of AMARiijRA, i * W: 1' 111 IJ' ¥ 'tl ■J.JO VOYAGE FROM MANILLA On the 27th, however, was discovered an island cf fairer aspect. Its summit had a burnt appear- ance •, but its slope was Interestingly covered with trees and verdure. In particular, many cocoa nut- trees were seen upon it. The faintness with which the wind blew, but very imperfectly aided the ca- jfcrness of the Spanisli crew, to approach the shore wf this isle. But a number of canoes soon came out from its western side, with cocoa-nuts and bananas, u'hicli were readily bartered with the strangers. 'J'he islanders came on board the frigate j and one, who seen)ed to possess superior authority, expressed the most friendly sentiments towards the Spaniards, danced and sang upon the dtek, and gave to l\lr IMaurelle, among other [)resents, a large piece of }.lutV, resemb'ing bl-^tting paper. His presents were amply compensated. He informed them, that the isle was named Latte *, that he himself was its Chief; that it was al)undant in fruits and fresh-wa- ter ; and thiit anchoiing-groimd might be found on its coast. No ouch nnchorlng-ground could, how- ever, be discovered. But in their stretches round the isle, tlie Spanish navigators descried, at twelve leagues distance to the E. N. E. other isles of low- er elev.nion, but larger extent, between which there were channels, which raigiit aiVord slielter to ship- ping. They directed their course towards tlicse isles. On the 4th t)f March, they conducted the frigate up a small entrance formed by the isles to tlic N. W., and anchored at a short distance from land, in foity five fatlioms water. From this an- choriigc were seen, v/ilhin the gulph, houses, plantr.- ■H TO SOUTH AM E 5. IC A, 27 1 tions of banana and cocoa-trees, with very flatterincj appearances of water. Various harbourr., where the ship might find shelter, were liiccivise discovered a- . midst this groupe of isles. In the evening, they moved from their first station •, and on the ^th, at day-break, anchored in twenty-three fathoms depth of water, over a bottom of sand and stones, at the diitance of but two cables length fiora an inhabited shore. While they were cominsj up into this station, from fifty to an hundred canoes came daily out to them, with hogs, fowls, bananas, cocoas, and potatoes of extraordinary size. Cloths made from the bark of j)dlm-tree, and others of dilTcrcnt sorts, were like- wise oilVred by the natives. In exchange, they ask- ed hatchets, knives, ami other cutting instruments j but these Captain IMauiclle strictly forbade his crew to give. 1 he Spriniards cut down their shirts, trow- sers, and jackets *, and for these, were obtained hogs and other refreshments. The islanders who came on board, solicited l\Ir Maurelle to carry his ship into the middle of their Archipelago. The Chiefs readily sate down at his table, but would eat of no- thing save their own fruits. The women likewise vi- sited tlie Spaniards, and iippcared to be not at ill dis- agreeable in form and fcatutts. They wore a sort of petticoat encircling their waist to the knees j and the nun had on a similar dress. Some of the men meH!»ured t.ix feet four inches in stature, and were proportionately thick and robust. The lowest in statute of the islanders, was taller than the tallest of tlic Spaaish crew. A vrcscnt ot" fruits was scut K^' f. .»■'■ . I 272 V Y A C. K FROM MANILLA I t to the Spnnisli commander from the Tt non, or Grci.t Chief, by ihc haiuls (»f liis son. '1 he youth was courteously roccivetl j and seemed to be wcll-pleas- cd with liis reception. At eii;ht o'cU)ck, next morn- ing, more tlian a hundrcil canoes, with a grcnt noiso of the persons who maimed them, came around the ship. 1 he Tunou was now on his way to visit ti.e strangers. He \vas an old myn, of enormous bulk. .l)Ut, the inferior chirfs lifted him on boardihe ship< He was accompanied by his wife, a young woman of singular beauty, and apparently not above twen- ty-five years of age. The king and (jueen seated themselves on the watch bene.li, while their attend- ants, prostrating themselves before them, kissed the feet cf the I'uHou. The Tunou brought a laigc ca- noe filled with potatoes, as a present to the stran- gers. Captain IMaurelle giatefully adorned both him and his spouse, each, with a llame-coloured silk scarf, reaching from the neck to the waist, and hav- ing two piastres, imjirtsscd \v'ith the image of th.c Spanish inonarch, suspemled by a carnation- ribbon, at the 1 uwer cxtremitv, Reab wu htl le same imiircii sion, were, at the same lime, distributed to the at- tendants of the royal pair, 'lluse attendants shew- ed the m*>st profound deference for the Sovereign j and were by him treated with an air of the most ck- alted superiority. 'Iliey all beheld, with wonder,' the equipment of the frigate, and the vatious tilings which were shewn to then) in the cabin, 'i'hey went awny, at last, with professions of the warmest friend- ship, and certainly not ill satisfied with their recep- tion, To prevent quarrels, Mr I\T \urellc had the prc^ TO SOUTH AMHRrcA. ^ caution to tineaten tlic severest punishments against \vhoevcr of the crrw sh(niUI ^Ive the islanders the slightest oftcnce •, and, Ht the same time, ciutioncd liis lin)i?!c to keep vl;;ilantly un ihiir giiavd. lie diiec.t- da'^hed olV and scattered about, hy the impulse 'F the halh Twelve or tifleen hundred of the i^- 1 mJiCrs witnessed the discharge : And it produced, on their tniiid><, all the enV-ct thnt was desired fioni it. On tlie 6th, Captain Mnuvcllc selected, from among h;H ship's company, fifteen men, Hnned thein with pistols, swordii, musket?, cattridges, nnd Arm- ing the long boat with iwivcls, set out in it for the shore, accompanied by this party. The beach ivherc they landed, was crowded with men and wo. men. These Mr Maurelle obliged to lemove to a suitable distance. He then Brranged h's men under arms, and pointed his swivels against the crowd, to be discharged upon tiiem, if any unhappy ncctdent sliould render thi- ueccs»ary. The son of the Tu« Bou ofiered to conduct one of the Spaniards to a hlrcam of water j but the Spaniard, soon beginning to suspect some bad artifice, dcf.i^♦>d from following the young man. A well, dug on the strand, yielded only brakish water unfit to be drunk. Mr iMau- relle, therefore, directed another pit to be dug, at t\ greater distance from the edge of the sea. This Ir. bourcoulduolbc at this time completed. ( h\ the 7th, - 1 I 1 1 ii r: d ffli i 274 VOYAGE FRCM MANNILLA the long-boat, with a well-armed detachment, repair- ed again to the shore. The difjging of the pit wns renewed*, and it was, at last, left in a condition which promised to afford water on the day following. 1 l;e TuBou now vi5.ited the Spaniards on the shore. His attendants were numerous •, evidently persons of rank. *, and some of tiiem, venerable old men. He embraced Mr Maurelle with the same affection as formerly. '1 lie royal attendants seated them- selves in a circle on the ground. Two carpets of palm-stuff were brought. The king sat down on one of these j and he invited the Spanish command- er to scat himself on his right hand, upon the other. All around remained in profound silence, while the TuBou spoke, and the venerable old men who sat near him, repeated all his words, exactly as he uttered them. Roots, probably of the ^va^ were brought. From these, a nauseous bitter drink was prepared : And in vessels made of leaves of the ba- r ina-tree, this drink was, by young cup bearers, presented, first, to the Tuflou and Mr Maurelle, af- terwards, in order, to those who sat around tliem, Only a select number were permitted to taste this tiectar of the p'eat^ among these islanders. He who sat among the Tueon's officers, the nearest to the royal person, pointed out, as if ollicially, to the cup- bearers, to whom they were to serve the ava, Mr Maurelle declined tasting it. Those who drank of it, appeared to writhe thfir countenances with disgust at its loathsome bitternes?;. Boiled potatoes and ripe bananas were then set before the Spanish Captain; and of theic he ate. Two canoes, laden with simi- TO SOUTH AMERICA. 279 lir provisions for his soldiers, were soon after seen to arrive. After the entertainment, the Tubou re- turned to his own habitation. Mr MaureTe re- turned the visit J and was courteously received by the monarch. boon after his arrival at the royal habitation, the beautiful queen made her appear- ance. Before her walked eight or ten young girls, who might be, each, from sixteen to eighteen years of age. Some of them drove away the flies from incommoding her j on others slie leaned while she Wiilked J all were employed in menial services a- bout her person. She was wrapped in several dif- ferent mantles, which gave a considerable bulkintss to her form. She received the strangers with a jsmiling countenance ; uttering the words, lile\'^ liiey^ liiy\ which were understood to signify xvei' came. 1 he king was so ready to strip hlmsclt of his garments, to bestow thc*se upon his visitors j that, after this first visit ot ceremony, Mr Maurclle, in delicacy, avoided as much as possible, 'to give him occasion for bestowing favours, so costly to the 'I'uuau, of so imall value to his guests. 1 he Tu- Eou bestowed, at this fust visit, upon his Spanish friend, two large fishes of the ^////>twI MANILLA closer between them. Don Antonio soon took: Jcave of his kind host, and returned on board the ship. The Indians on the shore, treated the Spa- niards, as they passed to their ships, with every possible demonstration of friendly ivindness. The conquerors in the games would obli,^e Don Anto- nio, to permit them to convey hnn upon theiv shoulders into the long-boar. But, the Tlbju per- ceiving from his house, that the presence, and even tlic kindnessei of bis people incommoded their guests, come out with a rod in his hand, and, with severe bealing, drove the v, hole crowd away into tl: c wootls. All WIS now In readiness for the departure of the Princcsa. On the 13th, Captain Maurelle liad re- solved to sa',1. But, this day, gaits of wind fiom the north, and from the N. W., blowing directly in- to the mouth of the passage by which he was to sail out, rendered his departure absolutely impossible. The winds grew stiil stronger and stronger. And though three anchiirs were down from the frigate, yet the cable of her sheet-anchor give way. Ou the 15th, the violence of the winds seemed to be sub- dued. But, the failure of the cable of another of the anchors, a^ain disconcerted Mr IM.itirflle, when lie was about tu set sail. Ills cables uere all in an exceedingly infirm state j and he had every rt.ison to dread that his last anchor might soon also be lost. V'or thj present occasion he had a cable fixed to the nearest rock. 'I'hc people were again set to swce]) for the two anchors which had been here lost. On account of the uneasiness of mind which he felt frou\ w TO SOUTH AMERICA. 2^t y n ' J these ncciclents, he was hindered from avalllnpj lilm- self of a new invitation of the Tudou's, to another entertainment. But, tliis lilndcred not tlie Tunoit from senchn^, every evenin:^, for the u>e of the Spa- nlaius, two baskets of roots, with some fowls and fish. All the provisions which had been collected for the second entertainment, were, by the I'i'mou's orders, carried on board the frigate. And the Tti- and cnjov tl Bou came, tliere, severnl times Itl to d ine iiis afternoon's nap. On the i6th, Mr Manrclie niTTiin made a fiultlcss attempt to leave the channel. On the iSth, the ijrst pilot j:join_i,' out in the bou't, liappily found another channel, throu'41; ^^hich tlu: frigate might easily sail away. At two oVlocu 01 the afternoon of the I'^th, the I'linccsa hid, fortu- nately, g)tten cle ir of all tlic islands. 1 he kin;;- and queen took leave of Don Antonio, upon this fmul separation, with the strongest e\prc>-vions of kindness ai\d sorro'.v. Many of their subj'jct«i, in thtii canoes, attended the course of the frigate, till she had left all the isles behind iier, 'J'o ihe hiw- hour, formed by three isles of consldrriiblc extent, and a number of smaller ones, Captain i\laurell« jravc tlie n.mc vd" I'.u Ufiuaro, It lies in ih^ 7,(f S. liiit. in 1 7" S I on;r M. fi roni 1' tliS. 'I'o the whoh; cluster of i'^lcs, he gave the ti.ime of the IsLLS 01 Don Map. riN de Majorca. It alVordfi shelter frohi cvP>y stoim, bloving from whatever *)uarter. Tlie ciiiiMncK to the N. W. and the S. \V, by which si Ips ni ly enter or ilepait, aflord fifty- five lathoms depth of water, over a tiiuty, stony, gr gravrlly boltom. A sln'Ii.u- bottom, exl'.nJin^ H f 282 VOYAGE FROM MANILLA to tlie very centre of the gulpli, has there thirty five or forty fathoms depth of watery in some of the creeks, the depth of the water is diminished to twelve or fifteen fathoms. It is proper to keep the . lead ^oing, while a ship seeks anchorage amidst these isles. Nothing can exceed the fertility of their soil. Cocoa-trees, banana-trees, lime-trees, sugar-canes, with a diversity of other fiuit- bear- ing trees, potatoes, with abundance of otler sweet edible roots, grow here, almost spontaneously, and in the greatest abundance. The cultiva- tion is also wonderfully skilful. No weeds are suf- fered among the plants, in the cultivated fields There are roads in many directions, and in an ex- cellent condition. It was with pleasure that Don Antonio Maurellc found himself able to increase to these islanders their stock of vegetables, by pre- senting them with some maize, rice, and seeds, which he directed them to plant, and txpl.iined ihcir uses. Shrubs, of which the bark is uscjI in the fabrication of their cloths, arc, also, among the objects of their cultivation. The conduct of these people was ever gentle and beneficent to the Spa- niards, liut the Spanish commander was cautious never to go on shore without an armed guard : and he used every other feasible means, to inspire tliem with respect for him and Iiis ship's company, 'I'hcy were, however, almost all thieves. Clothes, iron- work, whatever else tiicy could secretly seixc, never failed to be made their pii^e, when they came on board the frigate. TuBor, upon Captain Mnurellc's complaluts g>we him [)cimi»!ii'Jh ;o iutlict instant M TO SOUTH AMERICA. 283 punishment upon any of the islanders, whom he should detect in sueh thefts. Some of them being soon after surprized, in an attempt to tear away the 1 udder-chains, a pistol was fired, and one of the thieves was killed. Those who beheld his fate, were not roused to indignation against the Spa- niards, but only said, Chi'to (signifying Robber) Fana {Death'), It was impossible for the Spaniards to discover, during their short stay, whether these peo- ple professed any sort of religion. The sounds of tbcir language were not didlcult of articulation to the Spaniards •, nor did the islanders find any dilFi-i culty in articulating the words of the Spanish lan- guage. ]\Ir Maarelle was informed by ihcm, that two European ships had, not very longljefore, touch- ed at thc^e isles J and had supplied them, in Darter, witli ghiss-beads, hatchets, and adzes. The chiefs wear, aiound tiic neck, a mother-of pearl shell, and have the little finger, oai botl\ hands, cut olV to its root. The Tiuou promi icd to supply the Sprmiard"! with a much greater abundance of provisions, if tliey would carry their frigate towards the ordinary place ol his abijdc. liat, with tins request, Ca\)tain Mail- relic found it impossible to comply. Had it not been for the unfortunate lo's ot the nncliors, nothing could hive been happier than the period of the slay of tl)e Spaniards in this harbour. All were agree- ably refreshed : the scorbutic recovered health and vigour: every thing was fairly obtained, at a price the most trivial. On the 20th of M^rcli, the Pilnccsa was clear of of all these isles. She now x\v\ to the S. L. before i, t' « I 1 i i'\ 284 VOYAGE FROM MANILLA on E. N. E. wind. In this course, there were soon descried, first, o«(f lofty isle, afterwards three other"-, extending between S. and W. S. W. In the isles nearest to the ship, were seen, as she advanced, about eight and forty fires. At sun- rise, on the 21st, they counted to the number of ten islands, on one hand, and six on the other. These they crossed to the southward, through large channels, which are in- terposed between them. Arriving, in their farther progress, in a vast gulph, they there discovered, at five or six leagues distance, a multitude of isles, l)ing in a circular arrangement around it. Surrounded by so many low isles, Mr IVIaurelle now endeavoured to pass out from the gulph, by some of the many chan- nels which opened among them. But he soon found every opening to the southward to be barred by dreadful hrcalrrs^ against all access of the fri- gate. l^Ie then directed his course westward, to- wards the lofty isle which h id first attracted tiie no- lice of himself and his ship's company. By sun-rise, on the ensuing morning, while the frigate approach- ed this isle, various canoes were seen to come out with fruits and other j)i'ovisions, such as had been obtained in the i^lcs recently left. For slueds of cloth, the biding of these canoes was readily pur- chased. The ruoo'j of these iiles sent out two hops •and surnc cocoanuts, to the Spanish commander^ ■^vith a message, inviting him to visit t)ic isle on ^hich that Cliief had liin residence. Afterwards, this Tunju came himself on board. He had heard of the visit of the vSpnniards to his neighbours, and seemed to be jealous of llic favour which the other T'.'iou had obtaiuei \NltU tlic Spaniards by his hos-* TO SOUTH AMERICA. ■■«s pitallty to them. The Indians agreed in informing the bpan aids, that it would be impossible for their ship to pass safely out from among these isles, o- therwise than by the channel on which lay their Tub:.>u"s isle. He was said 'to be the sovereign of eight and forty islands. He promised the Spaniards, that, if they would land on his isle, he would give them a pile of potatoes, as high as the mast-head, and would entertain them with a notable exhibition of wrestling. He p it his mother of-pcarl shell a- bout the neck of the Spanish commander ; and, af- ter passing five or six hours on board, retired, in hopes of a visit from the strangers. The frigate, in lier course, coasted along many of these isles. At sun set, she had advanced beyond them all, and was pursuing her course, under a brisk wind from the cast. 'I'o this gioupe of isles, Mr Maurelle gave the general name of the Isles of Don Joskimi Gal- vtz. Tlie southern Cape of that isle on which the TuBou resides, lies in iiy*^ 39' S. Lit. in i/Cy" 38' Long. E. from 'Paris. On the 2 id, our voyagers advanced still southward j discoveiing, as tliey went on, two isles, which received from tiic;n the name of Las Culcdras, tf..le, hut were foiced back by the tempest- uous winds whltli blew, and by the swellin^r waves, Losing; no favoural)le moment, Alri\laurellc had made his way, on the sth of May, as far as the 6" of S. J-at. Here was found a low isle with a santly shore, that term! ated in ai\ imi>eue traijU e reef, near to wliich a line of more than lifty fathoms ^ave no in- dicafiun of bortom. 'Ihis isle was covered with co- coa trees. The iom;-bjat was -( nt out with an aiui.d paJty, to bring in a supply of cocoa-nuts. ii I 'I 288 VOYAGE FROM MANNILLA But the breakers of the reef made it impossible for her to land. The Indians, however, launched their canoes, and came out with such small supplies of cocoa-nuts as the difficulty of the navigation would allow them to bring. They endeavoured, without success, to tow in the frigate towards the shore. But after six hours of fruitless labour, the attempt was given up. The people of this isle were fright- fully besmeared with paints, and differed somewhat in their speech from those of the more southern isles. They had, for the most part, long beards, hanging down their breasts. On the 6th, Mr Mau- relle was obliged to reduce the daily allowance of food to each man of his crew, to five ounces of bread, three ounces of pork, and two ounces of beans. That evening, they saw another isle, larger and lower than the last. To this isle they gave the name of San Augustin. On the 13th, they again crossed the Line. Every appearance concurred to persuade them, that, in the latter part of this course, they had left much land to the eastward. While the crew were confined to the above-mentioned small allowance of bread ; every one complained of u weakness of stomach- Their strength was, in ge- neral, so exceedingly enfeebled, that they were now hardly able to walk the ship. Most of them were attacked by the scurvy. On the 74th, they found themselves in 13" lO' N. Lat. and all danger was at an end. They stecrt-d W by N. for Guam, the the capital of the Martan Islks. On the 31st, they anchored in the ro.id of Umata. TO SOUTH AMERICA. 239 D ON riirLLT^'pE /.ERAiN, govfnor o f t^ lis isle, no sonner received noiice of the ar»ivtil of tl:e l^rincc- sa, and of her wants, than he sent on bo.ird a tempo- rary supply of rice, maizr, and ho^s, for fifteen dnys, to be used, if the vessel should, by any sudden acci- dent, be drive.i from the road *, gave daily su[plies )f ant iscorbutic provisions for the use o >f th c crevv and furnished a;i old anchor to supply for one of those which li.id been lost. An wooden anchor was framed to maki? up for the loss of tlie otlier. Water was next t..k.en in, with all expedition. To their astonishment, they found, that, by unknown leaking from the casks, their store of v;a!er had been> before their arrival in the road, reduced to less than two butts. Their ban els were entirely spoiled : but of these also, a supply was furnished by the care of the governor. Of eatables was ob- tained a supply of about five hundred bushels of inai/e, two hundred and sixty bushels of rice, thirty hoi>s, twenty bullock*!, with a large quan'iry of dried meat, of butter, of salt, of lamp-oil, of cocoa-nut brandy, with sixty cocoa-nuts for the hogs. On tlie 2Dth of June 17S1, tlie Princesa was ready for the renewal of the voyage. On the 20th the anchor was weighed. In the raising of the anchor, the ca- ble again unfortunately broke, and the anchor was lost. INIr Tvlaurelle chose to steer a northcily course. Winds from the K. and N. carried them to 20" 10' N. lat. For the next eight days, they cxjiericnccd a calm that left ihem entirely at the mercy of winds, by which they were drifted to the N. W, On the A a t 2f,0 VOYAGE FROM MANILLA 3d of July, In lat. 24" 26' the winds between the W. and N. began to blow, at times, with consider- able force, at ether times, more fainlly. On the "/th they were carried to lat. 23" 9'. On the i itli they had reached the latitude 27° 32'. On the 5th of August, after a progress which had not been very successful, they fell under the influence of a north- west wind. Till the i.th they steered E. by S. In the interval, the winds had been extremely va- riable. On the 3d they were inN. lat. 37° j', and, by accurate reckoning, in 144° 17' of longitude W. from Paris. Till the 3d of September they stood to the eastward. Seaweeds, and trunks of fir-trees floating upon the water, here gave them the first indications of the proximity of the land of Cali- fornia. 1 o approach this coast, they steered E. S. E. On the 4th, the colour of the waters of the sea began to change : Small birds were al:«o seen : And all things conspired to indicate that land was nigh. On the 8th they found themselves but five leagues distant from Point Pedernal. After obtaining sight of this point, they directed their course to- wards Cape San Lucar. In their course, eit;ht leagues eastward from the island of Guadllupa, they had some days of calm. They next came with- in sight of M(jRNF,- Saint Lazare. On the iid they were near to Cape San-Lucar. A dreadful hurricane overtook them on the 2sth. For six .hours it continued to rage with such fury, that, even against an heavy sea, they were diiven on at the rate of seven miles and a half, an hour, under tlie foresail. On the 26th and -27th, they doubled the TO SOUTH AMERICA. 291 Maria Islands, and came at last to an anchor in the J-oad of San Blaz in 21*^ 30' N. lat. in 134° 3' long. E. from Manilla, 107° 6' long. W. from Paris. In spite of all their dilHculties, only two men had died on the voyage 5 one in the haibour of iSiriran j the tithcf, of li jjhthluis, This narrative Is of use to shew, how far the Spa- niards are ucquainted with the isles of the South Sea : MaurcUe's reckonings are extremely inexact : Yet he is esteemed one of the most expert of all the Spanish navigatorst A a i S H O R 1* .— rD I795, ih Ills Britannic Majesty's ships, the Discovery sloop OK War, and the Chatham armed Tender, UNDER the command OF CAPTAIN GEORGE VANCOUVER. Aa 3 -f" .V. no CO' pre e\| inli :iti( fah tlic ;lic pos ns ;i iiul con J'n J iiiiy .\ V oht VOYAGE or CAPTAIN G E O K G E VANCOUVER. THE smaller (juadrupeds in)ral)itine; the extreme norlliern latitudes, arc furnished by Nature with coverings of furs, which form almost a sull'icicnt protection a^rainst the colds to which they are there exposed. Necessity has always taught the human inhabitants of the same climates to clothe tlieni- M'lves witli the skins of these animals, while they subsist chictly upon their llcsh. At nncc warmer and more beautiful than any texture which men can fabric kte, thtsc furs have, hence, become objects of the highest estimation for clothing, as well among the civilized nations of the Uini)erate /.ones, who possc!<« a rich diversity of other articles for dress, ns among the almost polar savages, who can procure notliing else to cover their nakedness. Iltnce the cominertlal imiiortancr of Siberia to the Ku<>s'nn J'mpirc, of Canada, a'ld of the J}ictoru:f on Hudson's ]iay, to liritai'i. Among A\ the civill/.cd nations in tlic temperate, nay even in the torrid irglons of the earth, there is .\ vety eager demand for furs. These are to be obtained only from tlic hunters in the rorthcrn re- y'fom of Europe, Asia, and America. Russia and Citcat Biiluin huvc, for a uLilc, possessed, almos: If 296 Vancouver's voyage exclusively, the trade In these furs. From Siberia, the Russians have long been wont to send, by annual caravans, to Kiatcha on the confines of China, vast quantities of furs, which the Chinese there purchise from them at enormous prices ; while they also fur- nish very lar ^e supp'ies to the vanity and luxury of the people of the middle and southern regions of Europe. Canada and Hudson\- Bay, furnish the merchants of Britain, also, with great quantities of furs, which they partly sell in Europe, and in part export to China. The quantity of furs which can be procured, is always exceedingly unequal to the demand for them. Hence, no article that is, at present, the subject of commcice, affords larger pro- " fits to the merchant. For tic Chinese, who will scarcely accept any thing but gold and silvc for those va>t quantities of teas which British mcrchant« purchase from them , it has become an object of great commercial concern for Britain, to procure an article which they r-^tecm so highly as furs, and for which they are willing ' i pa^ at so dear a rate. Hence, when Cook, discovered, in the N'orth-wcst coasts of America, an immense fur country, far richer in this produce than those regions out of which the merchants and huiittrs of Il'.uropean com- merce had been long exterminating the fur- bearing quadrupeds', the attention of Biitish merchants was instantly turned with great earnestness upon the dis- covery J and it was soon resolved to seek, from the territories round Nootka »SouNn, a supply whic . might cnal>le ihc Briliih tb undersell the Russian* :n the Chinese mackct. ROl'ND THi: WORLD. 297 An expedition from London was soon undertnkcn ;jt the expence of some opulent and cnli'^htened merchants j and two ships of considerable burthen sailed upon it, under the command of Captains Port- T.ocK and DrxoN, ciliccrs of dii-tinguished spirit, ])rii(lcnte, and nautical experience. Other adven- tures for the same North West coast of America, and for furs, were fitted out from Kciigal. Amnnj; other commanders, to whom was intrusted the con- duct of these adventures, was Captain j. Meares, who, thou,^h less cautious and prudent, perhaps, than 6ome others, appears to have been eminently bold, persevering, fertile in expedients, and endowed witli liberal and enlarged intellig.'nce. In the first voy- age which he conducted, the imprudent use of spiri- tou< liquors, with other disadvantages, made a ter- rible havock of his crew. Yet, in procuring furs of the most valuable quality, he was remarkably successful. In a second voyage, his success was not 1 fi ess ; am ) 1 he was fortunate in preserving his crew rom suffering by any extraordinary morta ity It was imaijiincd that Cook's discovery of these whole coasts, but in particular of Nootka Sound, gave to liritons, in an unquestionable manner, all that right to tic sovettignty of these regions which tiiwuvery arii ■ rt ufiancy arc believed to confer. iviKAHiis erect- C' . .crt of fort, and l)elieved that he liad secured loi ir. elf and his cn)j)l()ycrs the far-trade of this sound, — when he was suddenly expelled from his si- Uiatlon, and treated by the Spaniards with all the violence dui. .0 u Buwunccr, 59^ Vancouver's \' o y a g e For thou;.',1i other nations were little capable of the liberal naiulcal views that sent out those Impor- tant expediilons for dls.^ovtry, which have been performed by Britons, in tlie course of the prr- Bent rd^in ; yet they hnvo been b'.llicienrly ea^cr to ttvail thtmsflvrs of f;v«M y t Uviti^nf^e vvhic!i the din- coverles of Cooic, wul otii r Hiito.is, liave ope-ied out to commprce or to conqu'-sr. Fro^n the ]jort$ of the United .States of Amt'.ica, from those of Kus- sia, from those of Spanish America, expeditions for prosecuting the fur trade, on the north-west cuast of America, weie eagerly fitted r)ut as *oon as Coor's discoveries had been made ^rnerally known. The Spaniards trusting to the aid of France, and still ambitious . ep as much as possible of Ame- rica in their p* session, though they keep it abso- lutely desolate, were soon iinxious to exclude all o- ther nations, and particularly the British, by whom it had been discovered, from this north-west Ame- rican coast. In the affair of Falkland Isles, they had experienced, with what tamcncss a F/ritish Ali- nistry can submit to insult and dishonour, even from a weak foe. Fiance was still ready to support Spain, and to humble Btit.iin. 'L'he Spanlard'j thought that they might ag;iin, with impunity, ven- ture to insult the Hiltish (Jovernment, and '■o de- prive its subjects of their rights. Hence were Mkahes, and other adventureis in the fur trade, driven from the coast of NooU'/i, and maltreated as Buccaneers, l)y the Spaniards. 'Fhc Spanlardn re- lolved, If possible, to engross the fur-trade fur thcm« ROUND THE WORLD, 299 selves, and to make tliemsKlvPS exclusive masters of the western coast of America, as far northward as its coas*- WHS accessible. British su'^jtcfs, inju'ed, carried their complaints to the Government, to the Legislature, to all their fellow subjects. It was impossible to evaf^le hear- inir them. Remonstrances were offered to the bpa- nish Court . naval preparations were made, it was talked ; that if the Spanimds refused concession,— the \vronjTS of the British merchants an I navigators must be redress'.'d by force of arms. Supported, encou- raged by France ; rcmTmberinfjf how a British Mi- nistry had been dealt with in the affair of Falkland's Islands •, the Sp; niards talked loftily and evasively, lengthened out negociation ^ at last, made a conces- sion, in acceptinj^ wiiich, it seem<; to liave been a- greed, that the British Ministry should virtually sa- crifice the ri^ht in dispute. To receive the offered surrender of tlie violated Biitish possessions at Noot- K.A SoL'ND from the Spauiaids, Captain Geor(^e ^'AN- couvi:r was sent out with two small ships of war, under hii command. Having, before, sailed with Cook, he was well qualified fur such a voyatre. Jn the narrative which he picpaied for the press, but lived not to publish, he has evinced, how eminent- ly he w;>s qualified to make his expedition valuable, as a voyage of discovery 1— wbat a m ickery the ijpa- niaids were, by the vtry treaty, s ffcrt d to make of tlut sui render, which he went out to receive from them ! Captain Va.\couver*s instructions from the Lords of the Atlmira.ty dlrtcted luin to make a new cxa- niiuation uud survey of the b/VNUw icu IbLLS :— to pto- 'H\ 300 Vancouver's voyage ceed from these to the north-west coast of Ameri- ca :"^to receive the formal surrender of the buildings and territory, of which certain subjects of his British Majesty had been dispossessed by the Spaniards in the year 1789 : — to explore the north-west coast of America, from 30'' to 60° N. Lat. with a view to the discovery of a passage in these latitudes, between the western and the eastern side of the American Continent : — and to examine, also, tlie S. W. shores of America, from the scene of the most southern Spanish settlement to the very southtrn ex- tremity of America. In accomplishing these ob- jects, Captain Vancouver was farther directed to conduct himself peaceably, upon every opportunity of intercourse with the subjects of other powers •, and, after his destined surveys should be completevl, to return to Britain, if possible, by the way of Cape Horn. In the be^finnin^ of January 1701, Captain Van- couver prepared to sail from Pjritain. The Disco- ▼ FRy was under his own immedinle command ; the Chatham, hkcwise under his orders, was command- td by liieutenunt \V. R. liRcucHTON. Various causes of delay, detained them till the month of A- pvil, .'H the Kn}:jlish coast. On the evening of '1 lu! sJ.w. the .'Sth of the same m^nth, they arrived in tl» • road of Sa/itn Cruz, betorc the island of Vi- k;.mi-i K. Here tlity obtained veiy ;;ooJ wine, water, ami >.L'\\ for sea stores •, but found the fruits, vege- table; in j;eneial, and poultry, to be both very indif- f«'rei.i ii> juaiity, and v< ry d 'ar. From the fclpanish Govci.'uv of this anil the otiier Canary 1sli:«, the gentlemen ^^l\o went ua >hoie, experienced but bu ROUND THE WORLD. 301 Van- )isco- ; the mand- rioas of A. ng of rived vitcr, ve|rc- iiulif- '.iiiisli , llic Ut BU uncourteous and inliospitable reception. Had it not been for the kindness of Mr Rhoney, an Irish gen- tleman, they could not have obtained on the isle, ei- ther a dinner, or even the temporary shelter of a roof. From Teneriffe, they sailed straight for the C/^PE OP Good Hope. On tlie evening of Sur.day, the roth of July, they anchored in biMoN's Bay, at that Cape. Mr Brandt, the Dutch Commandant, in the port, received them with tlie most polite and benignant hospitality. Their wants were soon hap- pily supplied : their repairs were made • thfy had much agreeable and friendly intercourse with the inhabitants of the place. On the evening of the 17th of August, after a longer delay than they had at first intended, they again set sail. Directing their course towards the ct)ast of New IIolland, they now sailed onwards, for a while, without any very remarkable accident or observation. A Hux attack- ed the health of the crew ; but they did not, as yet, materially suffer from scurvy. xAt length, tliey ar- rived within sight of the western coast of the land to whicli their course was destined. Tlicy explor- ed its S. W. division, with an accuracy which had not been attained by foimer iiavigators. Nc\v points, creeks, streams, habitations, and contiguous islets, presented thcmselvfs to thtir discovery. Iti an extent, iiawcver, of an hundred and ten leagues of coast, they found only one very excellent har- bour. Its situation is in, nearly, 3 ^° 3' S. Lat. 1 18'* 17' E. Long. They gave it the name of Kiwa Georoe the Third's Suu, d. Bb mmm JP2 VANCOUVER'S VOYAGE Wood, water, fishes, were here found in a suffi, clent abundance for the supply of their wants. Head-lands and islets protect the harbour, almost on all sides. Luxuriant grass was seen to cover exten- tive tracts of the adjacent lands. Much of the low- er ground was morass. The soil was deeply colour- ed by ochraceous matter, and was perceived to com- municate a similar colour to tlie waters. Coral ap- pears to be the principal substratum lying immediate- ly under the mixed vegetative scil. The hills rise with a gentle elevation, which does not seem to bid defiance to the plough. The most common of the .forest-trees greatly resemble the holly. The larger trees seem to be of that species which is called the ^umtree of New South IVa/cs. Myrtles, not unlike to the pimento tree of the West Indies, are also ve- ry plentiful. A dead kangaroo was the only quad- ruped which these English navigators had occasion to see here : Vultures, hawks, parrots, and a few •other land-birds, attracted their notice. The black swan, the black and white pelican, grey curlieu? an'' sca-plcs, were the most common aqr.atic fowls. 'I he snook, the callpevar of Jamaica, the white mullet, rock- fishes, m ickerels, herrings, were among the sea- fishes which th'j Knglish voyagers caught in this sound. Wha'es and seals likewise played round the ».hips in great numbers, and with great familiarity. A few snakes and lizards, beetles, illes, and muske- tocs, were the rcptilfs and insects. Lhc climate seems to be mild and agreeable. No unusual vio- lence of the winds was ftlt oy this coast. At that time in the year wh"ch answers lo the beginning of ■-■.-.■>.-v.-. ■...■■■.■,..-■.■..,..,. "'"'^it iiSimiaM ROUND Til*: WORLli. 5^: April in the northern hemisphere, the mercury In' Fahrenheit's thernidmeter stood at 5^°. In the ba- rometer, the indications were from 29" to 30" 50'. None of the natives of this coast had any Intercourse with the English voyagers. Two of their villages Vvere, however, visited. Iho houses or huts have much of the form and aspect of the straw thatched bce-hlves common In Britain. The larger trees in the vicinity of these villages had been holloweJ out by fite, so as to afl'ord occasional shelter to the peo- ple. No sort of proper household furniture was seen in any of the huts. The only implements were sticks very rudely fashioned by manual labour, into spear*. Appearances suggested, that these people must derive their means of subsistcncr: rather from the land than from the ocean. Much havock ap- peared to have been miule among the wonds by the careless use of fire. Oar voyagers did not sail, with- out leaving for the absent natives, a present of beads, knives, looking-glasses, and other trinkets. On Tuesday, the nth of October, they weighed anchor, and sailed from AV//?- George's SounJ. I hey now bent their course for OrAiiEiTE. J'hc dysente- ry had not yet ceased to aflllct the ships' compa- nies :^ And there was no other place alike near, where they might ho|ie to find suca an abund mce of equally salutary refreshments. At the hour of nine in the forenoon of the id of November the) arrived within siglit of the coast of Nkw Zkaland. Here they »oon came to anchor in DusKy JiAv. They afterwards workeil the vessels into Facilf; Hardour. Parties were, without del ly, ^enl on . L b 2 ■I 1^. V, iS 304 Vancouver's voyage "shore to cut wood for fuel, spars, and plank?, to brew spruce- beer, to repair the sails and rigging, to prucure fresh fishes tor the ships' crew;,, &:c. In a very short time, the necessary labours were happily dispatched. A party of the gentleme^n now set out on an excursion, to explore the bay mure ^lartlcular- ly than had been done by Captain Cock. They landed In some of tlie coves frequented- by the na- tives, but met with none of these people. Their" excursion enabled. tliem to make some additions to Couk's excellent map of this bay. — On the i8th they again set sail. The salubrious air, and the dif- ierent refreshments which were here procured, coa- trlbuted in a very essential manner to restore and to preserve the health of the creivs. In their, pro^^ress towards Otaheite, they discovered a cluster of seven craggy isles j of which the largest is situate in 4^° 3' S. lat. in J 66" 20' E. long, which had escaped the notice of Cook j and to which, on account of their .situation and appearance, Captain Vancouver thought proper to give the name of the Snares. On Thurs- day the 22d of December, they arrived within siglit of one of the Society Isles. Some of the natives soon hastened out In their canoes, to reconnoitre the ships. The English advanced to meet them. ^1 hey were with dilllculty persuaded to come on boaid the British ships. It seemed that the*>e islanders h..d never seen any such ships before. They were, how- ever, not unacquainted with the uses of iron, nor with those articles of European manufacture wiiich former voyagers had left In the hands of the Inhabi- tantsof some ncM:jhbouring isles. They preferred iron ROUND THE WORLD. )oS m to every thing else which the British navigators had to offer. A few spears, a club or two, some indifferent slin^^s, were observed in their canoes. Two or three of tliem were for about an hour on board Captain Van- couver's ship. But their attention was so unfixed ', they were iii,such a state of giddy amazement at the objects which they savv *, their language was so utter- ly unknown to the British j that it. was impossible to obtain from them, any satisfactory information con- cerning their island and their fellow countrymen. TowEREROo. a native of tlie S,i .dwich Isles, sailed on board the Discovery, on his return from Britain to his own country. But he remembered too little of liis native language, to be materially useful on this oc- casion, as an interpreter. From the answers of these people, however. Captain Vancouver was led to be- lieve the name of their isle to be Oparo, that of their chief to be Koric. The isle is situate in 27° 36' S. lat. in 213° 58' 28" W. from Greenwich. Itn shores seem to be easily accessible. It has some rmall bays in which vessels may find shelter. Its greatest diametrical extent is about six miles and a lialf; Its circumference maybe eighteen miles. It consists of a cluster of lufty and craj,rgy hills j which tower up into some lomantic j)innacles ; and which rise with a very abrupt elevation from the .sea- shore. The spaces between the hills seem rather chasms than vales. They are covered chiefly with ihrubs and dwarfish trees. On the tops of six of- ihe highest hills, there seemed to be a sort of block- liousc, like a British glass-house, with fortification? ii-Tiued by wooden pallisades, and extending for B b 2 m I m i 1. * if i 3o6 Vancouver's voyage some length down the hill. People were seen a- mid these fortifications. About thirty ca"noes, most- ly double, were observed at the shore. The isle seemed to afford no large timber. The number of the inhabitants may be estimated at fifteen hundred. Though the isle presented no consideraJDle marks of fertility j yet the people seemed to be well-fed, were handsome in form, of moderate stature, not deform- ed with scars, mild and benign in their manners. Leaving Oparo, our voyagers proceeded with a fair and easy course, till, on Friday the 28th of Decem- ber, they anchored in the Bay of Matavai, on the iiorthern coast of Otaheite. On his arrival at Otaheite, Captain Vancouver issu- ed immediate orders •, enjoining his people to act in an uniformly pacific and friendly manner, in all their intercourse with the natives 5 prohibiting trade o- therwisc than by the intermediation of proper agents, till the ships should be supplied with provisions j di- recting the officers and seamen, diligently to Sis- charge their different duties j and threatening the proper punishments aganist any attempts to embez- zle the King's stores, belonging to the vessels. Mr Broughton, with the Chatham, had been di- vided from the Discovery, in the passage from Fa- cile-harbour. At Matavai-bay, he was again over- taken. He had discovered, in his progress, Cha- tham Island, and some other isles, inhabited by a stout race of people with whom a contest arose,. »nd situate in 43° ^9' S. Lat. in 183° 25' W. Long. The natives of Otaheite gathered eagerly around our voyagers, as they came to anchor in the bay. M*-*4HlfiWaMHM ROUND THE WORLD. 307 C -ill Vancouver, who had been a companion of some of the voyages of Cook, was Impatient to en- quire after his old Otaheitean acquaintance. Most of the friends whom he left here In the year 1777, were now dead. But Otoo, with his father, bro- thers, and sisters •, and Poatatow, with his family j still survived. Otoo had, however, retired to Ei- MEO or MoREA ; leaving to his eldest son the sove- reignty over this aifd the neighbouring isles. The young king had assumed the name of Otoo ; and old Otoo was now called Pomurrey. Presents from the present Otop, had been sent to Mr Brough- ton, before Captain Vancouver's arrival. The mes- senger whom Captain Vancouver sent on shore, to pay his first compliments to Otoo, returned with a pig and a plantain-leaf, the presents and tokens of amity. An Interview was proposed j and Otoo came down to the sea-shore, and Captain Vai :ouver went on land, for this purpose. Otoo appeared a boy, of about nine years of age j was clothed in a garment of red English cloth, with ornaments of pigeons' feathers j and was borne upon the shoul- ders of a servant. The ceremonies of the interview were soon over. The sovereign, by the direction of his attendants, graciously heard from the Britons tiielr piolfers of friendship, and promised those sup- plies of provisions which they asked. At the re- quest of Otoo, Captain Vancouver readily agreed to send a messenger to the isle of Morea, for his friend Pomurrey. The Hiitons, in the mean time, set up their tents and observatory on shore j and, without loss of time, endeavoured to make the neces- is m I !• I- Si ^i ^ • ' ti .' 3o8 Vancouver's vovkct Sary repairs, and to tnkt in the requisite supplies. Ort Monday, the 2d of Januiuy i'-9 ;, Pomurrey arrived, tvith the English genllemf-n who had goiie to wait upon him. With him came a'so Matooara-Mahovv, the subordinate chief o» Morea, who was apparent- ly in the last stage of a deep consumption. Pomur- rey readily recognized Captain Vancouver ns his old acquaintance. Cloth, hogs, lowls, and vegetables, were soou presented in plenty, to the British gen- tlemen, by the Otahcitean chi'ifs. Axes, and other suitable presents, were giver to the Otaheiteans in return. Among the chiefs who visited th? Lritons at their tents and ships, was Po^'.o of INIatavai, who brought a portrait of Captain Cook, that wr»d drawn by Mr Webber, in the year 1777, which re- m'ains always in the house of the chiefs of Matavai, and has become t} h protectors, to the rank of h Chief in this island, came out in one of these canoes. lie v.as received wiljj kindness and respect. He asked for his Diitiih friend Mr Mcarcb J anr. told, that I'amaahmaaha had, by his aid obtained the sovereignty of the three iiortlicrti districts of the i!>le, while that of the two southern dijtricts had been assigned to Timna him»clf. Nj C c S»4 Vancouver's voyage European vessels had touched at these isles since the autumn of the prececHnjr year. About that time, they had been visited by three or four Ame- xican briers, and by a vessel from Macao. Tianna viewed with adnriiration, a'-»d at the sime time with the most vioilant attentio , all the transactions, and the apparatus of the British ships. He held loner conversations with younjr I'owerkroo. At hist, he requested Cnptain Vancouver to convey himself, ■with a considerable company of attendants, to the more northern Sandwich Isles, which the British ships were to visit, after leavinpj Owhyhee. Larjre promises from Tianna ena^ed Towereroo to settle under his protection in Owhyhee, instead of pro- ceeding to bis native isle of IMoROTor. 'I\ Tower- croo's care, Captain Vancouver intrusted a letter for the otliccr wlio was t') arrive here with a vessel bringing stores and piovisions for the use of the Discovery and the Chatham. Another chief, named Kahowmotoo, bfcame soon after known to our voy- :igers. and presented to them a valuable quantity of cxcellerit provisions. 'J'ianna, when tlie time for the dei>arture of the Bri;is}i ships, ariived, was led to niter his >"rst resolution, and i<. decline the voy- age for wliich he had before solici'ed a passage, ]^oth he and K^hovvmotoo, with all the inferior chiefs, slicwed an anxious desire to obtain the seed? nnd plants of those exotic vegetables, which their intercourse with fon.igncis hud tauglit them to va- lue. A goat and kid, some fine oiange jiJaiUs, and n packit of dillVrcnl garden secils, were bcsiowcd ttpjn K ihowmotoo •, and were received bv him, ROUND THE WORLD. S^S v\Ith unequivocal expressions of the highest i^tij- faction. From Owhyhee, our navigators soon pursued their vovaLre towards the rest of the Sandwich Isles, As they sailed on, before the E. N. K. traJc-\vi nd, they were visited by some cnnoes from Ranat, which however brouj^ht them no supplies of fresh nrovl- ■ : And the natives could not be persuaded to lend their as^^is- tance towards bringing it on board in any consldcr- ;ible quantity. The station of the ships, in the bay of Whyteete, was found to be in 21'' 16' 4'/" N. Lat. in 202° 9' 37" E. Long. From VVoahoo, our voyagers sailed for Wuym£A-Bay, in the island of ArrowAr. Their course was short and easy. At nine o'clock, in the evening of Friday, the ninth of March, they anchored in the destined station, on the coast of Attowai. Immediately after their arrival, they were viiitcd by the natives. Captain Vancouver himself, with others of the gentlemen who sailed "with him, went on shore. A person of the name of Ffboofi oftcrcd his sci vices to rcgul: te cir inter- course with ihe rest of the peopi . Two good * houses were approjjiiated by the ceremony of liie yV/ioo, for their accomodation. A space of ground "WIS likewise fenced in with stakes, tor their use ; and the natives were forbidden to enter it. A tratlic for provisions and futl, commenced ; and tho natives readily gave their assistance in filling the casks vviih water, and thtn rolling thcni from the %vatering-i lace to the boats. Ciplam Vancouver, with his friends, next set out upon an cxcur>ion ROUND THE WORLD. 17 iTirougli the isle. A plain, of considerable extent, spreads out from the base of the hills to the sea- shore. The taro plant, some su_£>ar-canes, and sweet potatoes, are the vegetables which grow in the cul- tivated ffelds. The taro is planted on wet grounds ; the other vegetnbles, on those which are drier. The sides of the hills, from a reddish, argillaceous soil, yield only a. coarse grass. A wall cf remarkable structure has been reared for a passage into the in- terior country, and for the uses of an aqueduct, at a place where access into the country must have been before impossible, and below which water would not be obtained, before this wall was construct- ed. It is formed of stones and clay. PJany in- dications of extreme and oftcnsively indecent wan- tonness, fell under the observation of Captain Van- couver and his friends, as they walked through the isle. An Englishman of the name of Rowbottom j who had been left in this isle by a C iptain Kend* RICK, an American, to collect for him a cargo or part of a cargo of sandal-wood j came to visit ths British ships in the harbour. With him came, like- wise, two native chiefs, whose names were No Mf^- TEE-HE-TEE and Tao. They Informed Captain Van- couver, that Rnemoh regent of the isle, in the ibsence of the sovereign, would, within a day or two, honour the Captain wi ' visit. From Rowbottom, in- formation was eivcd, that the people of these isles had made attempts to take some of the trading ships which had lately anchored in their harbours j and tliat their views were so daring and ambitious, that, unless the commanders of the Discovery and Ji« C c 3 3-8 Vancouver's voyage Chatham should keep themselves upon their guard, the natives might very probably concert some enter- prizd for capturing them. By the contrivance, as it ivas said, chiefly of Tfanna, a schooner, the property of Mr Medcalf, an American, had been seized, and its crew murthered at Oxvhyhcc. No-ma-tee- he-tee produced, as testimonies in his own favour, the letters of several captains in the fur-trade, most of which, however, agreed in representing him and his friends in a very suspicious light. Another Englishman or American came with a message from the Regent of the isle, and the prince the son of the Sovereign, who was left under the regent's guardianship. By this man, the British commander sent presents to the ];rlnce and the regent. Fires, which were seen to Lc soon after kindled along the shores, excited new suspicions of hostile intentions in the people. Vi- gihmt precautions were employed to avert any dan- gers which the natives might treacherously prepare. The requisite supplies of water were soon after completed. The men who had been ashore, em- harked. Amidst the hurry of their embarkation, some articles of value were unwillingly entrusted, for a time, to the doubtful fidelity of the natives. These articles, the natives faithfully pre;>ervcd and restored. At last, the regent and the prince made their appearance on the sea- coast, over-agalnst the station of the shins. Fire arms and ammunition, of wliich they had learned the use, were the objects which these persons the most earnestly desired to cbtain. Cnptain Vancouver, justly considering it to be extremely imprudent to furniih them with such ROUND THE WORLD. 319 instruments of mutual hostility, declared that his fire- arms and ammunition were under the Taboo of king George. His visitants were therefore obliged to content themselves with such other articles as they could obtain. Enemoh the regent pretended to re- collect Captain Vancouver, as one whom he had for- merly seen with Cook, and produced a lock of hair which he afTirmed that he had then obtained from the Captain. Upon the score of this old friendship, he presented to the British commander a consider- able supply of hogs and other provisions. Nor was Mr Vancouver sparing in a return of those articles which he chose to give. Both Enemoh and the prince, the son of Taio, condescended to visit the British commander on board his ship •, and the prince, especially, behaved in a manner which was very a- grecable to the British gentlemen. The prince had assumed tlie title of King George, and shewed a strong partiality for every thing that was British. The whole tenor of the conduct of the chiefs and the people of Attowal, was such as to remove eve- ry unfavourable prejudice which our navigators had at first taken up agaln>^t them. Highly satisfied with their entertainment at Attowai, they sailed 011 the 14th of March for Oneehow. Some friends, from Attowai accompanied them to this isle. And by the kind intervention of these friends, they speed- ily obtained whatever supplies they had hoped that Onechow r»"ght alVord. After all, however, the supply obtained from all these isles, was but scanty. But it was a time of war: A.id Captain Vancouver refused to give for provisions those fire- armj» and 320 VANCOUVER S VOYAGE ammunition which the imprudence of the traders had taught the islanders to value above every other commodity. War, too, appears to have thinned the numbers of the people of these isles : And they had enjoyed recent opportunities of bringing their ani- mals and vegetables to sale, which had probably tempted them to reserve too small a proportion for the necessary reproduction of the stock. On the evening of Friday, the i6th of March, our navigators resumed their course, and sailed from the Sandwich Isles for the North West coast of America. They had not been long out at sea, when the mainmast of the Discovery sprung •, and some defects were at the same time discovered in this vessel's rigging. Means were instantly em- ployed to repair these damages. They sailed on- wards with a fair wind, and in pleasant weather. On the 7th of April, in .^3*^ 23' N. Lat. in 217° 24' E. Long, they perceived the surface of the sea to ba covered, all around them, as far as the eye could reach, by sea-blubbers of the species Medusa Vil-. LiLiA, lying so thick together as to leave no unoccu- pied interval large enough to receive a pea, with- out its touching some of them. Of these Meduscc, .the largest did not exceed the circumference of four inches. Adhering to them, was found a beautiful blue worm, of a caterpillar form, which Mr Men- ziFS, who accompanied Captain Vancouver, in the chamctcrof a naturalist, regarded as an entirely new gt'iiuf. As they approached the Americ.ui coast, the winds became more violent, fogs obscur- ed their horizon, and they were annoyed by fre- ROUND THE WORLD. 3JI quent falls of drizzling rain. In the Longitude of 236" 8', in Latitude 39^^ 2::.', quantities of drifted wood, grass, and sea-weeds, were seen to float by the ships while they saiU i on : Shags, pufKns, ducks, and other aquatic birds, were at the same time seen flying about : And a change in the colour of the water likewise began to indicate the proximity of a shallower sea. They, soon after, found themselves on the coast of New Albion. The darkness of the atmosphere, here, allowed them only to observe, that the shore was rectilineal and unbroken, of a moderate elevation, and at some distance inwards into the country, screened by lofty mountains, which were overgrown with stately forest-trees. This was not to be the northern termination of their voyage. They sailed along the coast at three or four leagues of distance from it. Many agreeably picturesque landscapes of wood and lawn, of hill and dale, amaz- ingly diversified in form and combination, opened to their view on the land, while they advanced. In cjii^ 46V N. Lat. and in ^3s° 57^' £• Longitude, a point was discovered, to which Captain Vancou- ver give the name of Point Sr Gkok-cje. At an Inconbideiable distance south from this point, he commenced, in obedieice to hiy imtruction^ from the Lords of the Admiralty, a very particular sur- vey of the coast. bailing onwards, they perceived the shores to bf. formed by high precipices and dt^ep chasms. The inland mountains were generally covered with tall pines and other trees. Nousnows appeared even on the bleakest of these hills. Numberlebs rocky islets I' 322 ouver's voyage s.k'rtef! tViP scores. Under the shelter of a project- in? lock, in .\.^ ^S' N. Lnt. In 233" 4/ E. Loner. tho\ wen. obli^en to come to r. c'^or. on Tue .ay the 24th of April. To the jiittin^^ land of which this rock formed a \) \r< ^ Caprain Vancouver pave the n^nic of Cap^: ("Rrirvn. Horn? natives of tlic coast c.ime out \n r^nncs to the ships, 'vhiie they lay in this sta'i on. I' ^itse peonle were ^^' itl nue in the cjr manners : t -e evpre^8lo:1 in ihc;v countenance*? w;i«; mild : tlitir complexion or colour was .i licht olive : their persons were low and slender : -n their ears and noses, they wore small ornaments of bone : their liairwas long, black, clean, neatly conileJ, and tied in a club behind, — in some instances, both before and behlnci : their canon's were rudclv hollo wed, each from the trunk or a sin!;le tree, of capacioi'«:ness sullicient to bear eight persons j but unfit for going far out to sea : Their garments were of skinn of deer, bears, foxes, or river-otters. Thcyc people bi ought out with them a few trivial articles, for bartei j a!»king iron and beadn In return. They were scrapulously ho- nest in their tralTic ; nor did they either attempt theft ; or even readily accept presents uncompen- sated. To about a league northward from Cape Orford, cK:»«^crs of rocky islets continue to skirt the bhores. A straight sandy bc.ch thou succeeds ) and, behind it, ihr country rises with a Tiountainoui elevation. On the 26lh, our voyigcrs resumed their pti-gresi and thtir survey. Stei;p crag,rv clilFs soon appear- ed 10 define the sea.shore •, nnd, beyond them, the land presentrd ru!;;;'*d stony mountains, and dc-p ROUND THE WORLD. 323 chasms. They passed the Cape Gregory, Cape Per« PETUA, and Cape Foulweathlr, of Cook.. At sun- set, on Thursday the 26th of February, they arriv- ed within sight of Cape Look-out, so named by Cap- tain IMeares, in 4/' s/.' N. Lat. in 236° 1 1' E. Long, From that Cape, wood-covered mountains, of consi- derable altitude, extend for about ten leagues north- ward. As they advanced, the land presented the interesting prospect of a wooded country, of moder- ate elevation, diversified by knolLs, hills, and moun- tains, and exhibiting every indication of a soil un- commonly fertile. In their progress, they arrived, on Saturday, the 28th, within sight of a hitheito un- noticed point, in 47'^' 2J N. Lat. in E. Long. 233° 581', on which was conferied the appellation of Point Gklnvil-e. Oa the same day, they came within view of an isle, which they believed to be the same \vl'.icli had, before, received the name of DtsTRUcnoN IsLK, ffom IVlr Barcla- , who com- manded a vessel in the fur trade. Its situation if in 47" 37' N. Lat. in 233'* 49' E. Long. From Cape Orfjrd to l)estructi(jn Isle, no inhabitants had been seen by our navigators on the coast. Some canoes were observed, paddling round this desart isle. It is lar;'er than anv of the mure soutiiern islets, wliich Captain Vuncoavcr hud o.)S(:rved in these Intiiude.. It niav be about u league in cir- cumfeitnce, is level at i'S tup, and exhibi s no pro- duct woiihy (if notice, save only one or twu dwutf- trces nt cich end. An Amcric.»n ve».s.*l, in the fur-trjtdf, w.is sctu ucai, b) oui' voyugci^i &uon uitcr thty had ]^ tssed ^4 VANCOUVER'S VOYAGE Destruction Isle. Her name was the Columbia of Boston, Robert Gray commander. From Mr Gray was obtained some useful information concerning some arms of the sea, lying farther north, which en- tered far inland, and concerning the treachery of WiCANANisH, a native chieftain of Queen Cham.otte's Isles, of which Mr Gray, with his crew and vessel, had been almost made the prize. A mountain, with two very lofty and picturesque summits, which were covered with snows, and which had their bases at an elevation, that, though lower than they, was still very lofty,— about this time attracted llie no- tice of Captain Vancouver, as the most remarkable that he had hitherto seen on the American coast. It might perhaps be that which Mr Meares has named Mount Olympus : lUit the dusky obscurity of the atmosphere m:ide it, at this time, impossibL* to ascertain its situation with precision, bcveral villages were, soon after, discovered to be thinly scattered along the shore. Our navigators soon found themselves at the entrance of De f'lxw's Streights. They entered between Tatooche's Isle, and a low rock, to which Captain Va'icouver w.js iuduced to give the n^me of Rock. Duncan. Ou the beach were several cnnics j but the progress of the ships was loo rapid to permit any of these to join tlicni. l i • v illagc of Classet, which was per- ceived on the slh'j'c, iccmo i cnnsidernbly populous. A rock, supposril to he tin; noted Pinnacle Rock, was seen, soon after fiur voy.igcrs had entered the tilrciihiH beyond Iaf. ochu's -Jsle. On the even- ing of the 2<,»th of Apiii, lucy anchored at the dii- r,OUND THE WORLD. 325 tance of nine miles witliln the entrance of tlie sup- poieu Strcights of De Fuca. Desirous to explore these Sireights throuf^h their whole extent, they soon renewed their course, and sailed onwards to the westward ; while, on either hand, towards both the north an.l the south, there was land, which, as it seemed, miji;ht be but divided pn^jections of the same continent. A low sandy point ot land attracting their notice, as they sailed on : They named it, from its similarity to Dun^eness, in the British channel,— New Dunceness. On the southern side of the bay, they could soon after, distinguisli an Indian village. They had already advanced farther into tliis inlet, than any former navigator was known to have done. 'I hfy determined to explore it to its inmost extremi- ties. A port was seen, after some f;xvtlier prepress, to open to the southward. They entered it ; found it to afturd shelter to their vessels, and for themselves, easy access to water y and gave it the name of Port Discovehv. The country adjacent Wks of moderate elevation, bcuitifully diversified by the interspersion of liilU with vales, and clothed with verdure of very plcasiac[ aspect. On the shore j;rtw strawberry- shrubs, t;oo«el)erry, raspberry, and currant-bushes •, clovers, samphires, and some coarse grasses, were diffused over the turf. All the re- gctablcs appeared to ll.)urish with a remarkably lu- xuriant growth. In a station so commodious and agreeable, our voyagers were induced to rest, to re- fit their vessel, and to perform such othci libour^ as were requisite for their accommodation in the continuance of their vovarc. ! \l Dd iploring 32^ VANCOUVER'S VOYAGE •farther to the south-west, they discovered another harbour, on which they bestowed the name of Port TowNSHtND. 1 hey prosecuted their discoveries far- ther 'f and found, towards the south-east and the south, a deep entrance, which was named Admiral- ty Inlet j and which had iis southern termination in a sou/u/, which was denominated Fuget's l)Ouno. The natives came down to them, while they examin- ed these coasts ^ behaved with inoiTensive gentle- ness J and eagerly engaged in transactions of trallic. 1'he small- pox had recently made very cruel rava- ges among these good people. All the surrounding country still presented a fertile soil, a territory ve- ry agreeably diversified in its level, a great luxuri- ance of vegetation, and extensive woods, filled with the noblest forest trees. At the eastern coast of the gr( at bay, within the btreigiitsof l)e Fuca, Captain Vancouver, with Mr Brougliton, and their olHcrrs, went on shore, and formally took possession of tins track of country— ^vhich thty believed themselves to liave been the first to discover,— in the name ol tlie IJrltisli Sovereign. From Admiralty inlrt, they turned their course northward. An extensive ter- ritory, whether insular or continental, they did not yet know, now intervened on the west, between their present course and the open ocean, from which they had entered De Fuca's Streights. I o an cx- Icnsive bay, which opened, as they advanced, into the eastern continental l.ind, tlicy gave the name of liKLi,iNi;nA>rs Hay. 'I'lic passage expandin^r, as ti^cy proceeded norihwards, into an extensive gulph, ilicy ^avc it the raine of the GuLrii of Glorgia. it wan 7^ ,>x^ 'U^"*^'^-^ ROUND THE WORLD. sn asfsin contracted into a Streight ; small islets were here and there interposed : Now to one side, now to another, the sea was seen to penetrate with its arms to a considerable depth into the land : The htreight winded away btfore tiiem, with many curious mean- derlngs, to the N. the N. W. or the N, E. : At last, it permitted them to issue out into the open main, hy what was named queen Charlotte's Sound j and they learned that it was a Great Lie, the inter- jection of which, between the continental shore and the open main, formed those btreights which they had thus dili^^ently explored. With dilliculty escaping from shipwreck, in o^ieen Cliarlotie's Sound, ihey sailed, for a short way, alont^ the continental shore, with no isle dividing their course from the o[>en seas. FiTZHucm's SouNij, formed by isles fronting the wes- tern shore of the continent, next presented itself to their passacfe. After examining this Sound, they returned, more hastily, and without deviating from the common route, to the Sound of Nootka, on the western ccist of the great isle which they had disco- vered. 'I'hey reached Woody Point, in 50 6' N. Lat. in 2^2*^ 17' E. Long, on Monday the 27th of August. On the follou ing day, they arrived at the entrance of Nootka Sound. Captain Vancouver was now satis- fied ; that, by his cxatnlnatlon of the Streiglits of tlic pretended l)e Fuca, it was fully ascertained •, that, there was not here any passage between the Pacltio and the Atlantic Oceans, dividing into two the A- merican continent. At Nootka Sound, Captain Vancouver was polite^ ly received by Senior (Quadra, who commandtd ilicio Dd2 3^8 VANCOUVER'S V O Y A G t for liis Catholic Mojestv, the Kin/r of Spain. Qua- dra was to surrender : Vancouver was to receive, in his Sovereign's name, tbe surrendered posse<.sions. A long show of negociation passed between the two oiHcers. At last, Captain Vancouver learned, that, Ijy the convention between the ministiTs of Spain and those of Great Britain, there was nothing to be sunendered,— but the houses which British suhiects hat unsuspicious intcrcouise of friend- ship, took place between Captain Vancouver and ISenior (quadra. *1 hey associated in visiting the na- tives, and leceiving their visits. Ma'^'inna, or Ma- QUiLLA, ihc chief oi the adjngcn*. courtiy, came of. ROUND THE WORLD. 3=9 ten among them. He had made a second sale to the Spaniards of that territory which he had before sold to the British. The British were now, accord- ing to Quadra's interpretation of the treaty, free to enter the Sound, and to acquire possessions : But the ^paniards were still to retain those possessions which they had purchased, fortified, and cultivated. Thus unsuccessful, in retjard to the first capital ob- ject of his expedition. Captain Vancouver had now only to proceed to accomplish the others. He was joii ed at Noolka Sound by the Daj Jalus. With the Doidalus and the Chatham, he returned southward. In the sound he had vessels both English and Ameri- can *, and it appeared that the fur-trade was still pro- seuted, on these coasts, with great enterprise and suc- cess. He renewed the survey of these coasts, from Nootka Sound to the coast of New Albion. Other headlands, hays, crteks, and islets, unknown to for- mer navigdtors, were discovered i;i those parts, which had been the most carelessly explored in Captain Vancouvc'r's voyage northward. Every observation tended to confirm the tact, that, at least, within these 1 tiludes, there was no passatrc of com- munication bet 'ccn the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans. 'I'lic great livcr of Col.umdia the exist- ence of which, between 46" and 47^ N. Lat had been mentioned by Captain Gray, was dixcovercJ and examined. On the i ^th of November, the Discov<:ry arrived safe in the Spanish liarhour of San Francisco, in 39" N Lat. where, by the ^'ood ulhccs of his fiicnd, Senior c^adia, Captain Van* ojuvui soon expciicnccd a kind and endcuilng hoso 330 VANCOUVER'S VOYAGE pltality from the Spaniards. The conduct of the missionaries, in the conversion of the nntive Indiana, and in the government of those whom they have con- verted, in a particuhir manner attracted \m notice. From San Francixo he soon proceeded to Mon- terey, where he was received by his friend Signior Quadra. The civilities of miadra agreeably detain- ed the English voyagers for a short while at Mon-. terey. Mr Kroughton was dispatched hence, home to Britain, with letters, informing the Lords of tlie Admiralty of the transactions at Nootka-Sound. Lieutenant Ilergest, of the storeship the DreJalus, had perished at Woahoo, by the treachery of the people of that isle j and Captain Vancouver found it now necessary to reviiit the Sandwich Isles. He failed for them in the beginning of the year 1793. On the I 3th of February he arrived on the coast ot Owhyhee. Taniaahmaaha, chief or sovereign, of the isle, Kahovvmotoo likewise, and Tianna the second- ary cliieftains, with all their sulijccts and dependents in general, received tlieir British friends with eager joy, and liberal hospitality. Provisions were ob- tained In great abundance : And presents and com- mercial exchanges were given, v;hich proved highly acceptable, no less than useful, to the natives. Two ICnglish sailors were found in the service of the so- vereign of Owhyhee, to whose services Captain Vancouver ncknowUdges liimsclf to have been not ' » little indebted. From Owhyliee, the Discovery sailed to visit tiie other isles. Every wlicre. Cap- tain Va)\couver experienced a friendly reception, was assailed by no treachery of the natives, iraprcs. ROUND THE WORLD. 33* sed them with reverence, as well for himself and his companions, as for the whole British name. In Woahoa he was so fortunate as to procure the mur- derers of Lieutenant Hergest to be punished with death, by the authority of their own chieftains. He attempted^ in vain, to mediate a peace between the monarch of Owhyhee and ihtise of the other isles, whom he had formerly found at war, and between whom hostilities were still prolonged. He Was however careful not to encourage their hostilities^ by furnishing them with arms and ammunition, as had been done by the captains of the trading ves* sels. After refreshing his crew fur five or six weeks among them, and taking in adequate supplies of the provisions which they afforded. Captain Vancouver prepared to sail to the north-west coast of Ameriea, for the purpose of following out that plan of nautical investigation and discovery, which his instructions had maTked out for him. He sailed from the Sand- wich Isles on tlie 3Gth of March. He held his course straight for the north-west co.^st of America. On Saturday the i8th of May, he had advanced so far along It, as to liavc arrived within si^ht of the great u\e of Quadra and ''an- touver, the insular character of which wus first dis- covered in his former voyage. On the 20th he reached the Sound of Nootka. Lieutenant Puget in the Ch.itham had anived here in the month of April •, had left letters for Captain Vancouver j and had then sailed northward. The Spaniards still kept possession of their establishment at Nootka bound J but olil'red to the liritibh commander, cvc« 332 Vancouver's voyage ry accommodation which they could possibly af- ford, for his voyage. The native chief Maqjjinna was likewise glad to sec again his British acquain- tance. Maquinna's daughter had, during the ab- sence of Captain Vancouver, been proclaimed heir- ess of his dominions, and had been betrothed to the son of Wacananish, a neighbouring Chief. With- out tarrying here for any length of time j they soon renewed their voyage j and, on the 24th of May, found themselves in 51° 9' N. Lat. in 231'' 38' E, Long. A deep inlet into the continental coast be- ing discovered, as they advanced from this latitude, received the name of Burke's Canal. A people, speaking a language different from that of the peo- ple of Nootka, and in features resembling the north- ern Europcansj'visited them, while they sailed along the coast in these latitudes. Islands, sounds, streights, bays, arms of the sea descending far into the land, met their notice, as hey proceeded. They were still careful to explore the continental coast. King's Island, — Princess Royal Isles, at some distance westward, — Queen Charlotte's Isles, no new discovery,— —Pitt's Archipelago, — the IsLAt.D OF ReVILLA GlGEDO, pRINCE OF WaLKs' Ar- CIirPELAGO, DuKK OF YoRK's IsLAND, AoMIRALTf Isle,— were the most remarkable isles interposed to protect the continental coast from the waves of the Pacific Ogean, which Capi;ain Vancouver and his ass'stants discovered in their progress from 31"' 43' 'o 57" 3^' *^' ^■•^^' Nc^^' Albion, — New Geor- gia, — New Hanover, — New Cornwall, were the lumcs now and fuimerly bestowed on these districts RODND THE WORLD. 335 of the adjficent continental coast which have been discovered by Britons. While these discoveries were prosecuted, the natives of the coast often vi- sited Captain Vancouver and his companions Once or twice they shewed dispositions for hostility j and skirmishes, in which they were worsted, took place. Upon all other occasions, their conduct was friend- ly *, and they were eager to trafiic with the stran- gers. After the middle of September 179?, Cap- tain Vancouver found it necessary to shape his course backward to the south, deferring the farther examination of this coast till the following year. Returning, he arrived at Nootka-Sound, on the 5th of October. On the 8th, having made some necessary repairs, and left letters for any vessel that should arrive here with dispatches for him, he re- newed his voyage southward. A part of the coast of New Albion was again particularly explored, as they sailed on. On the 1st of November, they reached Monterey. To his astonishment, he here met with such an unhospitable reception from Sig- Nioa Arrilaga the commandant, that he was (jbli-'cd to depart without refreshing his crews, and refitting the ships, as he had intended. After some farther examination of these >hores, he thought proper to steer for the Sandwich Isles. At another Presidio however, before his departure from the Ameiican coast, he found a more courteous reception, and was permitted to refresh the crews on shore. On Wednesday the 8th of January 1794, he arrived lafe on the coast of Ovvhyhee, 334 VANCOUVER S VOYA(?E ' Tamaahiraaha, the sovereign of tlie isle, soon ho- noured our vovi^gers vvnth a visit. He accompanied them to the bay of Karakakoa. The distinction with which they treated him, in preference to Tianna and the otlier cliieftan*!, made him very much their friend. The kindest entertainment, the most friend- ly confidence, the most abundant supply of provi- sions, from 'he natives, made Captain Vancouver and his friends exceedingly happy during their stay at Owhyhee. At last, Tamaahmaaharesohtd to make a cesiion (f the vohoL- isle of Owhyhee^ to Captain Vancouver, in the name of his sovereign, the King o# Great Britain. Captain Vancouver, sensible that these and the other bouth Sea islands were becoming, cv€ry day, of higher and higher importance to Eu- ropean, and especially to British commerce, did not refuse the offered cession. The Owhyheean Chiefs understood j that, in consequence of this cession of their isle to the British monarch, they should hence- forth enjoy the protection of Britain against all theirfoes, whether of the neighbouring isles or of any other country, — should be frequently visited by friendly ships, — should receive many of such pre- sents as might contribute either to gratify the ir ca. price, or to enrich their isle with new animals, new vegetables, new aits,-— and should be obliged, in consequence of all this, only to own the sovereignty of the British monarch, and to provide plentiful supplier of provisions for a fair price, to Britons arriving among them. It seems indeed to be abso- lutely necessary, that the people of all these isles should be taken under Briti'jh protection, to savt ROUND THE WORLD. 335 them from those mischiefs which are introduced a- mong thera by the conduct of different mercantile adventurers. From Owhyhee, Captain Vancouver proceeded to others of the Sandwich Isles, at which he obtained a supply of vegetables. ' -■'"■ On the 13th of March 179 <, he ag^in sailed for the N. W. coast of America. In the beginning of April, they had reached the Aratrican coast. They traced the const between the latitude at which they had terminated their survey in the year 179;^ and the 62° X. Lat. They pursued it where it bends away to the westward ; entered Cook's Inler.— Prince Williams bound, — and tiOse N. W. dis- tricts, vvhere the Russians from Siberia have m^de settlements for the purpose of tlie fur trade ; di»co« vered isles, bays, sounds, and heaiiUuds, which had escaped the notice of Cook, and all tormer naviga- tors J and ascertained that there was, in these ex- treme northern latitudes, no passage by which ships might cross over into the northern Atlantic Ocean. Having traced all thee most northern iiilets to their extremities deep in the continental coast ; our navi- gators then bt'iit their course southward, examining the coa^t still with equal care, down to vvhere they had already completed the- survey of it. From Cook's Inlet and Prince William's Sound, they found tiie coast to be fronted by comparatively few isles, down to the northern extremity of that which they had named King George the Phird's Archi- pelago. Having completed the survey of these coasts, Rnd ascertained the non-CKistence of th.c long-sought r .^36 N. W. VANCOUVLR's voyage, &CC. p?issage, our voyagers returned to Nootka. They were hospitably received by the Spaniards j and gave great pleasure to the cb'cftains, by visiting them at their villages. From Nootka they sailtd to Monterey, and found there a more hospitable re- ception than oa the preceding year. The Conven- tion had now been explained agreeably to Captain Vancouver's views j but he received not notice of this, till it was too late for him to stay to receive the surrender. Sailing southward from Monterey, he passed among some of the Equatorial isles adjacent to the American coast. At Valparaiso, he was re- ceived virh kind hospitality : And the invit./ion of the ^pnaish governor Higgins h \ him to viiit St Ja- co the capital of Chili. Renewing his voyage, he, in due time, reached St Helena, where he captured the Macassar Dutch East Ir.dia-man. From St Helena, he renewed hib Voyage in company with his Majesty's ship, the Scrptrv and a convoy of merchant ships. On Sa- turday the 13th of Se|itember '."iCt^, tl'.e Discovery WHS salely moored in tlie river I^hannon j f»nd Cap- tain Vancouver set out for Londun. Only j;v of the ship's c>.m(;any had. by dlseakc and accidents, perished in the course of so long an expedition. On the 17th of (.)cto^^er. the Ch tham also arrived, with all her ship's company. Captain Vancouver himself i» sii.cc dead. His brother is the editor of the nccount of his voyage. But it was almost wholly prepared loi ihc press by the Captain him- self. E x\ D. Nootka. aniards j r visiting y sailed table re- Conven - Captain otice of eive the -ray, he adjacent was re- tu^ion of it St Ja- reached r Dutch ewed hifc lip, the On Sa. iscovery id Cap- ly j/v of cidciits^ on. O.i arrivrd, ncouver ditor of almoic in hi id-