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westei 
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 Bpace. 
 
TEAVELS IN SEAEOH 
 
 OF A 
 
 SETTLER'S GUIDE-BOOK 
 
 OF 
 
 AMEEICA AND CANADA. 
 
 By GEOEGE JACOB HOLYOAKE. 
 
 " We must ceaeie altogether to say that England is an inland off the north- 
 western coast of Europe. * * We must cease to think that Emigrants, when 
 they go to the Colonies, leave England, or are lost to England. * * Contem- 
 plate the whole Empire together, and call it all England : we shall see that here 
 too is a ' United States'— a great, homogeneous people, dispersed OTer bouudloBs 
 eviice."—" Expansion of England : " Prof. J. B, Seeley. 
 
 LONDON : 
 TRUBNER & CO., LUDGATE HILL. 
 
 1884. 
 
 .M- — 
 
TO 
 
 Mrs. ELIZABETH THOMPSON, 
 
 OV AMERICA, 
 
 WHOSE CEASELESS MUNIFICENCE AND NOBLER SYSIPATHIE8. 
 
 ARE RENDERED IN AID OF JUSTICE, 
 
 IRRESPECTIVE OP COLOUR, SEX, OB OPINION ; 
 
 AND EVER PROMOTING THAT LARGER SOCL^LISM OF LIFE, 
 
 REPRESENTED BY TEMPERANCE, TOLERATION, AND SELF-HELP I 
 
 WHICH OFTEN FRUSTRATED IS .\LWAYS ADVANCING : 
 
 THIS RECORD OF " TRAVELS " WHICH SHE ENCOURAGED 
 
 IS INSCRIBED. 
 
 LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF ALBERTA 
 
PEEF ACE. 
 
 My story of the " Hundred Days among the Cana- 
 dians and Americans in 1883 " is ended. Like its 
 predecessor, ** Among the Americans in 1879," it has 
 been written merely to satisfy the rash curiosity of 
 friends who wished to know what occurred on the 
 way. Both narratives might bear the one title of 
 " Travels in Canada and America in Search of a 
 Settler's Guide-book." Of some 300 persons who have 
 written to me for copies of the Guide-book since issued 
 by the Government of Canada, most have taken 
 occasion to say that they have been interested in 
 reading these chapters on their periodical appearance. 
 Cablyle, in his earliest letter to Emerson, relates 
 that " one Irishmaii in Cork wrote a letter to another 
 in Edinburgh containing the friendliest possible 
 recognitions of me. One mortal then says I am not 
 utterly wrong. Blessings on him for it." Thus I 
 have more encouragement to issue this story in a 
 separate form than fell to the author of Teufels- 
 drockh. Though I am a cosmopolitan, and believe 
 in universal principles, I do not believe in universal 
 buyers, and therefore print only 500 copies. As I 
 shall probably give away 100 copies, there will 
 remain 400 for sale. As there are one million and a 
 half of Co-operators, I calculate that each 10,000, by 
 co-operatmg together, may take one copy among 
 them. That, if it comes so to pass, will carry ofif 160 
 copies. Mr. Mullins, of Birmingham — it being my 
 native town — may buy one for the Free Library, of 
 which he is custodian ; and Mr. W. E. A. Axon may 
 suggest that one be taken for the Free Library of 
 Manchester. In Leicester, where I have a friend who 
 is a Book Store keeper, another copy may be disposed 
 of, and in Liverpool, Edinburgh, and Glasgow, one 
 
 376903 
 
 ,,•£;. ,«., -^J. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 may be got into the market in each of those places. 
 In the American cities of New York, Springfield, 
 Florence, Boston, and Washington, one copy each is 
 sure to be sold ; and not less in the Canadian cities 
 of Hamilton, Toronto, Ottawa, and Montreal. Prob- 
 ably the Pueblo Indians, who come into Santa Fe to 
 sell wood, may take a copy, and one I feel sure will 
 be bought by Indian correspondents in Calcutta. 
 Since Mr. Nuttall has gone to Melbourne, I count 
 upon one being sold in Australia. I am told I might 
 put down two copies for each of the nine American and 
 Canadian cities I have named, making 27 copies in 
 all. Thus, 100 plus 150 plus 27 — make the disposal 
 of 277 almost certain. As neither the Co-opordiinr 
 News nor the Boston Index (which have issued these 
 chapters) is able to supply any complete sets of them, 
 I have provided 228 copies for what are called the 
 " general public," namely, for those rash, curious, 
 irresponsible, and venturesome readers, happily to 
 be found all over the world, who, being without fear 
 or discreiiion, are the ultimate friends in whom an 
 .n.r.ii'; or puts his final trust for means of paying his 
 printer's biU. Their day of reward comes when the 
 second-hand booksellers' catalogues mark the work 
 *' very scarce," at four times its original price. 
 
 GEOEGE JACOB HOLYOAKE. 
 
 34, Alfred Place West, 
 
 South Keneington, 
 
 London, S.W. 
 
 May, 1884. 
 
liTIDElX: 
 
 PAOK 
 
 Adler, Dr. Felix, Hla Speech at the 
 
 Oorman Olub 123 
 
 Adventures of a Loan OoUnctor 86 
 
 Adobe Temple of Monteznma 72 
 
 Adventurt b at Montmorency 84 
 
 ataaelpb S5 
 
 on the Way to the 
 
 Pneblo Indians 52-66 
 
 Advisory Board, American Co- 
 operative 128 
 
 Agncnitnral College at Oaelph, 
 
 Visittothe 85 
 
 Aldrich, T. B., Lines on England by, 142 
 
 Applebee, Bev. J. K 116 
 
 Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fu 
 Railroad . . If , 50, 53, 54, 64, 70, 72, 86 
 
 Atmospheric Energy 189 
 
 Author's Outlook, The 148 
 
 Objoot Stated, The 137 
 
 "Axe 10 Grind," An 28 
 
 Baird. President Spencer F 25 
 
 BaUou, Mr 118 
 
 Baraganath, William 96 
 
 Beecher, Henry Ward, Protection 
 
 Statedby 140 
 
 Belford and Clarke, Messrs 88 
 
 Bishop of Kansas 81 
 
 Blair, Senator Henry W., Defines 
 
 the Qualities of a Ouide Book . . 16 
 Bond, B. F., of the " O. and B.". ... 99 
 BriKht, M.P., Bight Eon., Story of 
 
 His Portrait 20 
 
 His Message to Wendell 
 
 Phillips 21, 22 
 
 Brighton Books Cast Upon the 
 
 waters 23 
 
 Brooklands Hot<>l, Banquet at ... . 12 
 
 Speech at 12 
 
 Brother Botolph of San Miguel 75 
 
 Butler, General Benjamin 112 
 
 Bystander, The 40 
 
 Canada, Old ^idNew 48 
 
 , Climate of 44 
 
 , Last Days in 48 
 
 , UnfamlUpx Facts About.. 43-48 
 
 Oarlyle'B Sister, Visit to 88 
 
 , Hfi Home in 
 
 Canada 38 
 
 Carhle, Thos., His Characteristics 39 
 
 Carling, Hon. Mr 48 
 
 "Catalonia," The, Self-respecting 
 
 Behaviour of 10, 11 
 
 Catskill Mountains, The 31 
 
 Cargill,Mr 60 
 
 Century, The 21 
 
 Chandiere Falls at Ottawa 33 
 
 Charlton, James .. .21, 80, 82, 79, 89, 94 
 
 95, 127 
 
 His Journal 62 to 65 
 
 Mrs 51 
 
 rxuR 
 Charlton, Mr. B. E., of Hamilton . . 41 
 
 Chicago, Lecture in 96 
 
 Its Unforeseen Ways .... 92 
 
 Church of San Miguel, Subscription 
 
 to 75 
 
 Coffin, Mr HI 
 
 Co-operation, Lecture on, in Mon- 
 treal 48 
 
 IntheSea 78 
 
 In America 127 
 
 In New York 128 
 
 Among the Pueblo 
 
 Indians 78 
 
 as a Moral Force .... 128 
 
 In Harvard, Story of. . 130 
 
 Oo-operator of the Old School, A. . 109 
 
 Co-operative Guild 29 
 
 Lectures In Toronto. . 41 
 
 Lecture in Chicago . . 96 
 
 Lawrence University 90-92 
 
 Supply Association in 
 
 Montreal 47 48 
 
 Co-operative Dress Association. ... 181 
 
 Cope, Thomas 125 
 
 Oobite Co-operation 146 
 
 Collyer, Dr. Bobert 118 119 
 
 Coloured Sermon, 4 108 
 
 Cooper, Peter , 124 
 
 CommisslonAr of Customs, Visit to 24 
 
 Coney Island 19 
 
 Contrast Between america and 
 
 Holland 17 
 
 Cross, M.P., H. K Ill 
 
 Cosmian Hall, A B^ception at .... 1U8 
 
 Courtesies of Travel 90 
 
 Customs House, Mr. Bright's 
 
 Portrait at the 22 
 
 Dawson, S. E 45 
 
 De Vere, Miss Mary Ainge 119 
 
 Oennlow, Professor Van Buren.... 96 
 
 Denver, Growth of 56, 78 
 
 Devyr, Thomas Ainge 80 
 
 Uickens, Charles, His Lecturing 
 
 Policy In America 142, 143 
 
 Dinner at the Rideau Cluo, Ottawa 42 
 
 Disputable Facts 88 
 
 Duff, Mr., of Denver 79 
 
 uilke, Bart., Bight Hon. Sir 
 
 Charles 105,106 
 
 Douglas, Frederick, A Night 
 
 with 104, 105 
 
 Duignan,W,U 48 
 
 Dundmn Castle, An Afternoon at . <*1 
 
 Drinkers, The DiflScuUies of 63 
 
 Dunn,Jobn,Vice-Consul of Chicago 96 
 Eaton, General, Department of 
 
 Education, Washington 106 
 
 Eddy, James 113 
 
 Education of Settlers 37, 147 
 
 Electors,Bebponsibility of American 144 
 
2 
 
 INDEX — con tinned. 
 
 hi 
 
 PAUE 
 
 Emigrants, Arrangements for in 
 
 Canada 4B, 47 
 
 Krnigrant Trainiug 184 
 
 Errani, Madame Charlotte 81, 116 
 
 Evarts, Mr. Kx-Secretarv 24, 124 
 
 Factory Town and Prairio, The . . 185 
 
 Farrcll", Mr. C. P 18 
 
 Farrell, Mrs 18 
 
 Field, MiBH Kate 119 
 
 FiMli, Co-oi)cration 79 
 
 Forater, Sir Charles 29 
 
 Fraaer, Jolin 125 
 
 FrelinghuyHeu, Mr. Secretary .. 26, 106 
 
 Founder of Florence, The 109 
 
 Fronde, J. A 89 
 
 Garibaldi's Home at Stateii Island. 122 
 OourRu, Henry : Opinion on hia Book 120 
 
 Oledhill, John 129, 145 
 
 Godwin, Parke 119, 128, 124 
 
 Government Guide Book, American 
 
 Letter concerning 29 
 
 Government, Canadian .... 44, 45, 147 
 
 Granville, Earl 108 
 
 Greeley, Horace 128 
 
 Guelph Agricultural College . . 86, 51 
 Hale, Kev. E, Everett, author of 
 
 "Back to Back" 115 
 
 Hall, Mrs. William 84, 49 
 
 HaU, Mr. William 85, 49, 50 
 
 Ballot, Alderman W. H., Gift of, 22, 25 
 
 Hamilton, Visit to 86, 87 
 
 Harcn, ('olonel ^ 71 
 
 Harper's Mayazine 21 
 
 Harvard Store, Story of 130 
 
 Health Congress Volume 24 
 
 Consign- 
 ment of 26 
 
 Heroic Engineer, A 87 
 
 Hesse, Baron Von, on Colony 
 
 Planters r 18 
 
 HiKh, Frank 78 
 
 Hill, Samuel 109 
 
 Hill, A. 108, 110 
 
 Hinckley, Rev. Frederick A. . . .118, 114 
 
 Einton, Colonel R. J 105 
 
 Ilollick, Dr. Frederick 22 
 
 Holyoake, MisM Emilie Asburst. ... 14 
 Holyokes of Massachusetts, The, 
 
 110, 111 
 
 Horse Shoe Fall, Change in 81 
 
 Hospitnlities of Boston 116 
 
 Hugh, M'Hugh Ill 
 
 Hunt, Thornton, Remark of 76 
 
 Hnnt, Seth 110, 111 
 
 Hurst, Bishop 135 
 
 Huxley, Professor T. H 7 
 
 lies, Gfeorge 48, 50 
 
 Incidents in Springfield 110 
 
 Index, Boston 112 
 
 Indian Village, Visit to an ..36,61, 63 
 Interviews with tlie Canadian Go- 
 
 venuuout 42 
 
 Interviews with the American Go- 
 vernment 106 
 
 Interviews on the Comet 69 
 
 of the Brooklijn Eagle . 14 
 
 of Tnith 120 
 
 with Editor of the 
 
 Star 28, 117 
 
 Ingersoll, Col., His House at Long 
 
 Beach 17,18, 19 
 
 His House at Washington 99, 104 
 
 107 
 
 PAOB 
 
 Ingersoll, Col., Anceitors of 99 
 
 Mrs 18, 28 
 
 Miss Mamie 18 
 
 Johnson, Colonel, Land Commis- 
 sioner 54, 66, 71, 72, 79, 129 
 
 Jones, S. F., A Famous Plainsman, 65 
 
 Journals in Doubt 186 
 
 Journey to Washington 99 
 
 Julien, Rev. M. C 112 
 
 KanHas Cowboy, A Picturesiiue 66 
 
 Kimberley, Lord 106 
 
 Kindergarten School at Florence, A 169 
 
 Lake View High School 98 
 
 Speeches at 94 
 
 Las Vegas, Marvels of 71 
 
 Law against Gifts, Singular 22 
 
 Leach, Mrs. . .14, 61, 71, 87, 94, 101, 108 
 
 Lead ville, A Description ot 57 
 
 Ways 88 
 
 Lilley, Mr., of Florence 108 
 
 Little Oratoress, in Blue Silk, The. 108 
 
 Littlehales, Thomas 81, 85, 87 
 
 Literature of Association, The .... 138 
 
 Lord Clarendon's Blue Book 80 
 
 Lord, Mr., of the " B. and O " 99 
 
 Lord Dufferin's Terrace 49 
 
 Long Beach Shore 17 
 
 Lorimer, Rev. Dr. G. C, Sermon by 8, 100 
 
 Lome, Marquis of 106 
 
 Lotta, The Live U'.i 
 
 Lowe, Mr. John 42, 48, 44, 45, 147 
 
 Mad Niagara 81 
 
 Macdonald, Sir John A. 42, 44 
 
 Macdonald, Lady 42 
 
 Mackelean, Q.C., F 41 
 
 Manhattan Shore 14 
 
 Martin, George 48 
 
 Matthews, Mr 47 
 
 Mayall, J. E., His Portrait of Mr. 
 
 Bright 20 
 
 Mazzini and Bums, Busts of 117 
 
 M'CuUoch, D. M 40 
 
 M'Inncs, Senator 40 
 
 M'Carthy, Justin H 51 
 
 M'Watters, George S... 14, 116, 123, 124 
 Medhill, Mr., On Woi-kshop Co- 
 operation 73, 182 
 
 Medhill, Mr 146 
 
 Memorials to two Governments 106 
 
 Mendicant, A business-like 83 
 
 Mennonite Settlement, A visit to. 63, 89 
 Mexican Woodseller, Life of the. 73, 74 
 
 Mighty Landlords 77 
 
 Migration of Ideas 97 
 
 Mills, James, President of Guolph 
 
 College 36 
 
 Moute/.uma Hotel, A Day at the, 59, 70 
 Montreal, Special Features of ... . 49 
 
 First Lecture in 47 
 
 Mundella, M.P.. Right Hon. A. J., 
 
 Suggested Visit to Ouelph 87 
 
 Munro.W. F 135 
 
 Murphy, Captain 8 
 
 Mussey, General 24, 26, 107 
 
 Mysterious Parcels 189 
 
 National Honour 144 
 
 Newton, Rev. Heber 118, 119 
 
 New York, First Deputation at 13 
 
 New York Trilnine 21 
 
 Letter to 26 
 
 Quotation from 186 
 
 New Mexico, Marvels of 59 
 
 Manner of Driving in 86 
 
1)9 
 
 , as 
 
 IH 
 
 , 129 
 . 65 
 . 186 
 . 99 
 
 . iia 
 
 . 86 
 . 106 
 \ 109 
 . 98 
 It 94 
 . 71 
 ,. 22 
 1, 108 
 .. 57 
 .. 88 
 .. 108 
 e. 108 
 15, 87 
 .. 188 
 .. 80 
 .. 99 
 .. 49 
 .. 17 
 fS,lOO 
 . . 106 
 .. I.i2 
 45, 147 
 ... 81 
 42, 44 
 ... 42 
 ... 41 
 ... 14 
 ... 48 
 ... 47 
 
 20 
 117 
 40 
 40 
 51 
 1.23, 124 
 Jo- 
 
 73, 132 
 ' 146 
 106 
 83 
 89 
 74 
 77 
 97 
 
 Iph 
 
 159, 
 
 J., 
 
 86 
 70 
 49 
 
 47 
 
 WDKX— continued. 
 
 8 
 
 ... 87 
 
 . . 135 
 
 ... 8 
 
 26, 107 
 
 ... 189 
 
 ... 144 
 
 18, 119 
 
 ... 13 
 
 ... 21 
 
 ... 26 
 
 Bin 136 
 
 ... 59 
 
 in 86 
 
 PAOR 
 
 New Bedford Lectnres 112 
 
 Nightingale, Profe88or A. K 98 
 
 Niini, V. C, oi the Rio OrsnUe Itail- 
 
 road 79, 82 
 
 OratorK at the Academy of Music. . 124 
 
 PKukhurat, Dr 18 
 
 Passenger Ships, Improvements 
 
 in 6. 7 
 
 Punder, M.P., John 11, 18 
 
 PeroivaLJ.M 128, 1H9 
 
 Phone, Dr 11 
 
 Philadelphia ln>iustrlal Co>o|)erM- 
 
 tlve Society 120 
 
 Phillips, Wendell, Note from 11 1 
 
 A Morning 
 
 with 106, 115 
 
 Phllosopbloal Society of Chicago, 
 
 Address to 96 
 
 ANlghtwlth 98 
 
 Plddlngton, Mr 41. «7 
 
 Plainsmen of Kansas 66, 07 
 
 Pleasant Diys in Providence 118 
 
 Plunder and Progress I'il 
 
 Podo, J. 8., Advice of l:»7 
 
 Pope, Hon .1. 1'.. Minister of Agri- 
 culture, Canada 42 
 
 An Interview with 42 
 
 Uinner with 12 
 
 Potter. Rev. William J 112 
 
 Potter, T B 141 
 
 Praise, The Art cf 20 
 
 Prairie Animals 67 
 
 Life, Effect of 69 
 
 Prehident's Church 99, 100 
 
 Prodigal Living 81 
 
 Prohibition in Kansas 127 
 
 Protection, Effect of 28 
 
 Influence on Co-opera- 
 tion 89, 40 
 
 Protection; Its Nature Defined.... 140 
 
 Providence Journal 118 
 
 Pueblo Indians 60,62, 63 
 
 Quebec, A Day at 49 
 
 Reception Committee, A Courteous 
 
 Letter from 120 
 
 Reception in New York 119 
 
 Rogers, M.P., Prof. J. E. Thorold . . 29 
 " Royal Gorge," Wonders of the . . 79 
 Ruin an Antecedent of Progress in 
 
 Chicago 95 
 
 Russell, Dr. W. C 121 
 
 RusseU, B. R 136 
 
 Salisbury, Lord 106 
 
 Santa F^, Last Days in . .68, 64, 70, 75 
 
 San Antonio River 27 
 
 Scalp-Land, In 83 
 
 " Scythia," The 14 
 
 Seagull, Ways of the 7 
 
 Second Sight of New Lauds 11 
 
 PAOK 
 
 Settler, The Term 1H4 
 
 : What He ShonkI Be 47 
 
 8hakspere"At Sea" 10 
 
 Ship Preachers H 
 
 Sidebothain, Peter Ill 
 
 Sleepy Montmorency H2 
 
 Smalley, O. W 21 
 
 Smith, Professor Ooldwln . ..40, 41, 44 
 Smith, John, Emigration Agent, 86, 46 
 
 47, M 
 Smithsonian Institute, Charter of . . 25 
 Speucur, Herbert at Niagara . .81, 19 
 Spenuer, W. 11., of Cosiaian Uall.. 108 
 
 Star Route Trial 18 
 
 St. John, .Idhii P,, Ex-Oovernor of 
 
 Kansas 04, 126, 127 
 
 8trang(! Chllrtven 75 
 
 Strange Mexican Customs 61 to Oil 
 
 Suggestive Letter on Land, A .... 188 
 
 Suspicious People 27 
 
 Taxing the Means of Salvation 141 
 
 Theory of Short Hair 16 
 
 Thompi^ou, Mrs. E 14, 28, 119, 121 
 
 , Oift of ao 
 
 Three Poets in Favour of Protection 142 
 Three Thousand Miles in Fourteen 
 
 Days .''h'i 
 
 Tihbetts, Capt., in the Canons 79 
 
 Tired Billows 9 
 
 TowMsend, Nugent 4) 
 
 Tyndal I, Professor John 77 
 
 Underwood, B. F 116 
 
 Jlrs., Characteristics of .... 116 
 
 Villard, Mr. Henry 121 
 
 Mrs 121 
 
 Visit to a Coloured Church 101, 102 
 
 Wamsetter Mills at New Bedford. Ill 
 
 Washington, Journey to 99 
 
 Wandering About .... 101 
 
 Remarkable Municipal 
 
 Volume of 107 
 
 Watts, Dr. John 12 
 
 Ways of the Sea 6 
 
 West, Hon. L. SackvUle, British 
 
 AmbHHsador 105, 106 
 
 Weedon, Mr 118 
 
 Westley, Mr., Difficulty of Dis- 
 covering 26 
 
 White, Mr. : His Railway Policy, 89, 90 
 
 Wliite, James 26 
 
 Windsor Hotel 48 
 
 Winter, Willlrtm 122 
 
 Witton, H. B 31 
 
 An Article by 48 
 
 Women's Rights among the Pueblo 
 
 Indians 73 
 
 Wonders of the Canon Roads 82 
 
 Woods, Justus 123 
 
 Wright, Carroll D 115, 116 
 
Ill 
 
 1 1 
 
 Ml 
 
A HUNDRED DAYS ABROAD IN CANADA AND 
 NEW MEXICO. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 WAYS OF THE HEA — BHIP PREACHERS. 
 
 Were titles put up to auction I should be a bidder for any 
 lot coDtaining one better to my mind than that I have choRen. 
 UnfortUDately, all the strikiog titles have been snapped up 
 long ago. There is that famous one, " How I struck America, 
 and how America struck me." There was a difficulty about 
 using that, as people invariably put upon words their most 
 obvious signification. For myself, I did not strike America 
 at all. To use an expresnion of tlmirs, I " did not feel like it." 
 And had I struck America it would not have mattered. The 
 great extended creature would not have been conscious of it, 
 and certainly would not have condescended to strike me again. 
 If it had I should not be left in a condition to tell the story. 
 My business in the countries named was to obtain authentic 
 information for the guidance of settlers. " Adventures in 
 Search of a Settler's Guide Book," would describe the nature 
 of my travels, but so many other incidents occurred that such 
 a title would not cover them. In America the press spoke of 
 my " mission," to which I was never reconciled. There is but 
 one " mission," one common to every traveller, and that is to 
 keep his eyes open, and tell the truth (if he can make it out) 
 with regard to whatever comes under his notice likely to be of 
 public interest and use. So I have chosen a title of " A 
 Hundred Days Abroad," as the indication of time is the best 
 test of the opportunity of judging and verifying the facts 
 recorded. Most things take twice seeing, and a long tv e 
 looking at, to make them out. 
 
 It is not of moment to any, save to those who may profit by 
 travel, to remark the effect of a sea voyage on health. When 
 I went to America in 1879 the effects of the disabling 
 illness of 1874 were not extinguished. The prospect of a 
 journey, or the sight of the sea, as I met it in coach or train, 
 caused eagerness and gladness formerly. After 1874 all this 
 had ceased, and life itself was uninteresting, except when I 
 
I ! 
 
 WAYS OF THE SEA — SHIP PREACHERS. 
 
 I! 
 
 1 
 
 was woikiag. On my voyage oat in 1879 I felt no change. 
 While travelling in America, I felt no exaltation. On my 
 retarn I was not conscious of being better or worse. Yet all 
 the while I was entirely changed. The sense of intermittent 
 weariness had gone out of my mind and no more returned. 
 In 1 S82 I longed to be again on the Atlantic, not doubting 
 that I should rejoice in sight of the shoreless sea, and it all 
 came to pass, even as I had imagined. The second Sunday 
 at sea on the voyage out ended with the wildest night I had 
 seen. However, I had enjoyment in watching it, and counted 
 that a gain. 
 
 There is no dust at sea. That is one of the first satisfao- 
 t?.ons which comes to a writer in London, whose books and 
 papers are daily covered with the nimble particles. It again 
 seems to me that a pleasant and useful book might be written 
 on Sea Things and Sea Ways. The discomfort of sickness on 
 the ocean, which comes to so many, iz as much imaginary as 
 mechanical. It is pretty much with sailing as with svsimming, 
 those who have the most confidence swim the best. New 
 voyagers fare better who keep their eyes from observing 
 anything whobe motion they can measure. Had I time and 
 sufficient means, I should like much to make voyages in the 
 chief vessels of the best known lines, to desonbe their pecu- 
 liarities and special advantages. There is no doubt that if 
 a shipbuilder had instructions or permission to use his best 
 judgment he might, as captains havo told me, greatly improve 
 the arrangemenid for the convenience and comfort of steerr ge 
 passengers. There are difficulties in introducing improvements, 
 as the first vessel having them would be popular and passengers 
 would crowd to it, avoiding other vessels. Railway companies 
 are reluctant to introduce improvements in carriages, as it dis- 
 qualifies other rolling stock. In this way improvements are 
 delayed, long after steamship and railway companies are 
 quite convinced that they should and ought to be introduced. 
 Since papsenger vessels multiply every year, and will multiply 
 more in the future, and an increasing number of people have 
 to spend no mean portion of their lives at sea, it is surprising 
 that obvious conveniences, such, at least, as are inexpensive, 
 are not snpp!i<)d. There are the rooms of captain, doctor, 
 purser. a.nd othe.r officers, bearing designation on the outside, 
 generally written on plates so indistinctly that new passengers 
 pass them scores of times without observing where they are, or 
 knowing where to go to if they require to communicate with 
 the official occupants. Besides, the names on the doors are 
 
 1 i 
 
 I ! ' 
 
WAYS OF TEE SEA — SHIP PREACHERS, 
 
 change. 
 
 On my 
 Yet all 
 irmittent 
 returned, 
 doubting 
 and it all 
 1 Sunday 
 ;ht I had 
 1 counted 
 
 i satisfao- 
 )Ooks and 
 It again 
 be written 
 ckuess on 
 t,ginary as 
 wimming, 
 est. New 
 observing 
 time and 
 |,ge8 in the 
 heir pecu- 
 ibt that if 
 e his best 
 y improve 
 f steert ge 
 ovements, 
 )aBsengera 
 sompanies 
 I, as it dis- 
 ments are 
 
 placed so low down that only midgets of the Ton Thumb 
 stature can possibly read them without stooping very low, 
 and that action in a lurching ship is often attended with 
 inconveL'ience. Why I recur to this is that a ship is some- 
 times cjdlled a " Floating Hotel," but ships are so large now 
 that they are floating towns, and have their High-streets, 
 public buildings, squares, suburbs, professional and lower- 
 class quarters. The corridors are virtually streets, where 
 scores of people live whom yon come to know during a 
 voyage. Why should not the corridors have names like 
 'streets ? Numbers are the sole designations of the stateroom 
 or residences, which are unintelligible to persons unfamiliar 
 with the ship, and difficult to find without inquiry. The 
 chief parts of the ship should have names put up, so that 
 passengers would be able to describe them, and know where 
 they have been, and where appointments could be made. 
 Officers of the ship, and the few parisengers able at all times 
 to walk about the ship at pleasure, and who are therefore 
 familiar with every injh of the ship, have little need of these 
 faci'ivies, which to them would seem absurd. Bat the greater 
 number of passengers never make this ac^quaintance with the 
 vessel during the T<rhole time they are on it. With a littde 
 thought and taste, a ship might be made much more 
 interesting and intelligible than it now is. Passengers are 
 left to find out everything for themselves, and commonly 
 never do it. Some day these attractions will be added to 
 passenger vessels. 
 
 In every stage of human life most people are at some time 
 or other discontented with their condition, and some have 
 good reason to be so ; but excepting the very worst there is 
 often consolation to be had by reflecting that things are not so 
 bad as they might be, nor is t! e comfort of comparison denied 
 to those who spend their days at sea. It is good for saloon 
 passengers to think of steerage inmates, and for steerage 
 passengers to think of those escaped from wrecks in open 
 boats, with no cooks or stewards with them. 
 
 In some warm parts of America there are races of accom- 
 plished mosquitoes, as well-informc<!! as though they had 
 attended Professor Huxley's lectures on natural history at 
 the School of Mines. These educated and fog- horn -throated 
 insects select English subjects for operations, as being more 
 full-blooded than the persons permanently on hand. The 
 same intelligent quality is observable in the sea gulls, who 
 visited the ship at Queecstown, They first appear at break- 
 
I I ' 
 
 ill 
 
 i I 
 
 8 
 
 WAYS OF THE SEA — SHII- PREACHERS. 
 
 fast time, when remaias of m als find their way into the 
 waters. Having obtained all they can, they retire, and do not 
 retnrn nUvH luncheon time. They know the hour when the 
 repaBt bells ring as well as the passengers do. The dolphins 
 and porpoises, farther oat at sea, seem to understand when 
 the steam hotel comes by, and follow it. One Sunday 
 morning a fine shoal leaped out of the water in the bright 
 sanshine, and kept up with as for two hours. Gradually the 
 fatter kind fell behind, but two fine lean ones kept ahead for 
 a time, like two champions at a race, of more pluck and 
 speed than their fellows, and who arrive at the winning post 
 together. The;? behaviour appeared, to more experienced 
 travellers than myself, quite like a human contest. In fact 
 an old colonel standing by me cheered the foremost fish. 
 
 On the last Sunday of our voyage we had the plebsure of 
 hearing the Eev. G. C. Lorimeb, of Chicago, preach. On 
 previous voyages Church of England clergymen were selected 
 who were less competent and less distinguished than several 
 American ministers on board. This time I suggested that if 
 the authorities of the ship had difficulty in making the 
 selection, all the reverend gentlemen on board should cast 
 lots, and he who drew the prize should preach. It was 
 unseemly where so many passengers were American and 
 many preachers of their own country were prosent, that they 
 should not have at least an equal chance of conducting the 
 ministerial office. Captain Murphy assured me that he 
 merely stipulated that the prayers read should be those of 
 the Church of England. He did not say, but his choice 
 implied that they were, in his opinion, the most efficacious. 
 So it came to pass that I beard, for the first time on board 
 ship, an American divine. Dr. Lortmer. of Chicago, is a 
 perfect type of United States energy, and looks it. He 
 has an impetuous voice, rushing ou without pause or 
 break, ever advancing with an iron alacrity. His discourse 
 proceeded along like the engines of the " Scythia." O;! 
 course, any logical discourso should proceed from premise 
 to sequence, but this hurried along. It was not spoken ; 
 it was impelled. In a musical box the dropping of a 
 bar marks the succession of a new tune. The preacher had 
 no bars between his eerrice. Song and sermon and prayer 
 were all on one reel, and constituted one piece of vocality, 
 which is an error in art and in reverence. Nevertheless, there 
 ^?v a vigour of argument in the sermon, and abounding, apt, 
 and relevant illustration. As fox words, the commissariat of 
 
to the 
 
 do not 
 
 len the 
 
 olphins 
 
 d when 
 
 Sand ay 
 
 ) bright 
 
 kUy the 
 
 lead for 
 
 ick and 
 
 mg post 
 
 srienoed 
 In fact 
 
 sh. 
 
 tosute of 
 
 .ch. On 
 
 selected 
 
 a several 
 
 sd that if 
 
 ting the 
 
 oald cast 
 It was 
 
 ican and 
 
 ihat they 
 
 [cting the 
 that he 
 those of 
 is choice 
 .cacious. 
 on board 
 .go, is a 
 it. He 
 ause or 
 [discourse 
 
 lia." o; 
 
 premise 
 spoken , 
 |)ing of a 
 Vcher had 
 |id prayer 
 vocalifcy. 
 Uss, there 
 Iding, apt, 
 ^ssariat of 
 
 the ship was not richer \n edibles than the doctor's treasdry 
 of terms. They flowed liko the Galf Stream, in fervid, caloric 
 torrents. His exhortations were to the self-sacrifice and self- 
 control of the Christian life, of which he assumed the capacity 
 and, what was more, made clear the possibility. He drew 
 ^:,imilitude3 from sailors and the sea ; a difficult thing to do 
 with art in the presence of experts of the ocean; but the 
 preacher did it. I tendered to Dr. Lorimeb my thanks for 
 Lis wholesome discourse, saying that, though I could not 
 answer fur his principles, I wholly agreed with his con- 
 clusions. On the following night the reverend gentleman 
 made a speech in the saloon on behalf of the Seaman's 
 Orphan Fund, in which there was humour, naturalness, and 
 modjlation, which means space between the tones; and 
 a subscription from his hearers of upwards of £20 was 
 collected. 
 
 The attrtictions in New York delayed our return until the 
 hu rricane month of December. For a fortnight before the sea 
 had been in a cyclonic uproar."^' The news of wrecks was 
 served with our breakfast every morning. The " Catalonia," 
 in which we had elected to sail, had been more than two 
 days late in reaching New York, owing io storms and to her 
 stopping on the way rescuing wrecks. That was a consoling 
 consideration, since a ship which could ride the gale to 
 save otliers might be depended r oon to know her way about 
 in turbulent seas. As neither pain nor pleasure lasts for 
 ever, it was fair to presume that neither tornado nor calm 
 would endure, and since they must take their turns, the tur- 
 bulent sea, after a fortnight's commotion, might be pretty well 
 tired of leaping up night and day, and about the beginning 
 of December the billows might be found disposed lo behave 
 well. They did. 
 
 When we came to embark New York was being as rapidly 
 buried in snow as Pompeii by the ashes of Vesuvius. The ship 
 appeared one vast boulder of snow, and as she had lain a 
 week in the dock without steam, she was as cold as a well. 
 
 ""* A oyolonio fi^," I eaid formerly, in a short paper oa my retarn, 
 " a fit with nnmistakable oonvaUiond, einoe the ocean shook and 
 foamed at the moatb," bat the printer pat it " hooka and foamed." 
 For a tim'<) no one ooald gaeaa how the word '* hooks" Woa created. 
 At length I aaw thai) the printer had pat the " a " at the pnd of the " k," 
 instead of before the *' h," and ao trinaformed " shook " into " hooka." 
 I never aa w s) onrior.a a mispriat before. I aave kept clear of "shook " 
 iaia time. No donbt the ** a " had dropped ont in lifting the formes, 
 and got dropped in i^gain at the wrong end of the word. — G. J. H. 
 
10 
 
 •WAYS OF THE SEA — SHIP PREACHERS. 
 
 No sooner were we ont of Sandy Hook, than the snow itself 
 gaye in, and we had four days of the hest-condnoted sea I 
 have ever seen. The captain, however, who was a prophet 
 of experience, had told ns at New York that he thought the 
 Atlantic wonld prove ill-tempered sooner or later, and that 
 our prospect of bad weather was good. No sooner had we 
 left hehind ns the Bharks of the Newfoundland coast than the 
 most excellent ocean turned rough. A vigorous north-west 
 wind sent forth all its strength, blew the stout ship on her 
 side, and mostly kept her there. 
 
 "Inconstant as the winds" is a proverb, but passengers 
 find that the winds have virtues which have been overlooked. 
 We found the wind could be constant when it pleased. The 
 " Catalonia " being a freight thip, and what sailors call 
 " broad in the beam," had good manners. When she rolled 
 she went down until her edge seemed in the sea — but then 
 she went down so deliberately that anyone might'have made 
 his will on the road — and when she came back it was in such 
 a self-respecting way that you felt there was nothing mean 
 about the " Catalonia." Day by day I watched the mighty 
 contest between the assaulting wind and the resenting waters. 
 The sea was indignant at being attacked. Often driven 
 below by bruises, as I found my strength insufficient to hold 
 well by the ropes, I retreated to the saloon, not wanting to 
 be washed away and leave no address. Still, I saw enough 
 of this conflict to underbtand the exclamation of Henry IY. 
 at the wild blasts : — 
 
 Which rooked the brains 
 In cradle of tbe rnde imperions enrge, 
 And in the visitation of the windst 
 Who took thu rnffian billowB by the top, 
 OnrlioK their xnoatrons heads, and hanging them 
 With deaf'ning olamonrB in the slippery clonda. 
 
 These are vigorous proceedings, with which only good sea- 
 manship and stout ships can successfully compete. 
 
 It was clear to me that Shaespere had never been on board 
 the " Catalonia," nor any other ship affording equal facility 
 for studying a storm, or he wonld never had described the 
 billows as " ruffian." He would have said instead " ruffian 
 winds." The mischief came from them. The billows were 
 decorous enough until the " ruffian " winds assailed them. 
 Poets can sometimes be as unobservant as those critics who 
 regard a controversy as a quarrel ; never caring to discern 
 between assailant and defendant. It is not always a fight 
 
 <*■ 
 
A SECOND SIGHT OF NEW LANDS. — MANHATTAN SHORES. 11 
 
 when one person knocks another down, if he who has found 
 his way to the floor began with outrage and provoked the 
 blow. The waves are not the aggressors in a tempest. Of 
 course, neither poets nor critics are prone to act as magistrates, 
 and ascertain facts, but facts are worth attention when they 
 come in our way. 
 
 Mr. John Pendeb, M.P., was one of the passengers on the 
 " Soythia " on the outward voyage. He said that a "Settler's 
 Guide Book," of the kind I was going out to procure, would 
 be of great service to him, if it existed, in the object he had 
 in view in the interest of some of his constituents in visiting 
 the United States. On our return in the *' Catalonia," amid 
 the passengers was Dr. Phene, who had just completed years 
 of travel in the study of the Mound Builders. Captain Gill, 
 on my solicitation, agreed to his delivering a lecture to us 
 illustrated by many remarkable drawings. Dr. Phene suc- 
 ceeded in elucidating the ancient serpent worship by past 
 races, more completely than, in my opinion, it has ever been 
 done before. On the part of the passengers, I moved a vote 
 of thanks to Dr. Phene, and afterwards drew up a certificate 
 of the proceediogs on the part of the ship's company, which 
 Dr. Phene wished to preserve. 
 
 ' CHAPTER n. 
 
 A SECOND SIGHT OF NEW LANDS. — MANHATTAN SHORES. 
 
 It was said to me very naturally and reasonably that I must 
 not expect to be received a second time in America as I was 
 the first. Why should I ? Why should a people be expected 
 to occupy themselves all their days with showing courtesy to 
 one person ? That would give no chance for others. It 
 would often happen that someone else might be entitled to 
 regard in his turn. It, therefore, did not occur to me to 
 expect notice on a second visit. I had had my turn, and an 
 
! • 
 
 abonuding and angrndging turn ifc wan ; yet a second oame to 
 me, greater than the first, in variety and vivacity, and, so far 
 as I could jadge, with equal cordiality. Not only in new 
 places, but in the same places this occurred. This was, no 
 doubt owing to interest in the business I had on hand, and in 
 the subjects on which it was supposed I could give informa- 
 tion. 
 
 Indeed, on leaving England a second time, I ought to name 
 the banquet at Brooklands Hotel, near Manchester. Though 
 the proceedings of that night are not likely to pass from my 
 memory, I pass them over, becuuse I cannot assume them 
 to have interest to others. *Dr. John Watts, whose friend- 
 ship has remained unchanged since we first met, when we 
 were both eighteen years of age, made one of his admirable 
 speeches on labour and co-operation. What I said in reply 
 to the friendly speech of Dr. Pankhurst, in reference to 
 myself, was this : — 
 
 It eeems to me that sometimes it is of the natora of s merit to 
 continne to live, einoe thereby yon oome to know and to hear many 
 pleasant things utterly inoonoeivable in earlier life. Not loog einoe I 
 was assailed at once by darbness and by death, from whioh I was 
 rescned and restored to light and to life by t>o hindness und generosity 
 of many present now, and of others absent — whom I shall never forget. 
 I oannot bat be gratified that so many persons, eminent in their pro- 
 fessions and mostly of views qnite divergent from mine, shonld assemble, 
 in some oases from a great distance, to show not only their tolerance 
 bat their friendliness to me. All along I have laboured ander the dis- 
 advantage of not being able to agree with everybody as a man of prudent 
 and well-regnlated convictions shoold. This noed to distress me very 
 mnoh, nntil I observed other persons took the liberty of not being of 
 my opinion. Seeing, therefore, that they tboaght it right to maintain 
 their view of things, it seemed equally reasonable that I should maintain 
 mine. I wish to be thought neither opinionated nor obstinate, but I do 
 not object to its being understood that I continue in my own way of 
 thinking. The longer I live the more clearly I see that the individual is 
 more than is neualiy imagined. Truth is not the work of committees, 
 bat of solitary thinkers. Discoveries are not made by societies on plat- 
 
 * Dr. Pankhurst presided, and letters were received from John 
 Brieht, M P. ; Arthur Arnold, M.P. ; Thomas Burt, M.P, ; John Slagg, 
 M.P. ; Sir Thomas Bazley, Alderman Hey wood, Piofessor Bosooe, H. 
 Bawson, Sam Timmins, J. P. ; Thomas HuKbes, Q.G, ; Bev. W. Mitchell, 
 Bev. S. Farrington, and the Bev. F. E. Millson. Among those present 
 were Dr. John Watts, Alexander Ireland, Morgan Brierley, Edward B. 
 Bnssell, editor of the Liverpool Daily Pott ; J. H. Nodal, editor of the 
 Manchester City News ; John Macktiiizie of Glasgow, Bsillie Oampbell 
 of Helensburgh, John Fraser of Liverpool, and many others, including 
 leaders in the co-operative movement, whose names I would repeat if 
 they could all be inserted in one brief note. W. E. A. Axon was 
 secretary. 
 
A SECOND SIGHT OF NEW LANDS. — MANHATTAN BH0BE8. 13 
 
 
 formB, bat oftener by single, patient, teolnded wfttohen of the ways of 
 hnmsn natnre. It does not eDoape me that I am nnder an eogagement to 
 read a paper to the Literary Olnb of this city, on the " Oaltivatioo of Wild 
 IdeaR." My friend Blorgan Br' ^rley may excel me in the oaltivation cf 
 birde, Mr. Axon in the onltivation of books, Mr. Baasell and Mr Nodal in 
 the oaitivation of politioiane ; bat in rearing and onltiTating wild ideas 
 I have the greater experience. It may be objected to me that this ia 
 an nnneceeeary parsnit. There are, I may be told, a good many wild 
 ideas aboat which are not very lovely, '"hat ia beoaase they are not 
 oaltivated. There are persons who tbiok yon attack free speech if yon 
 propose to pnt do WD fonl speech. If yon object toassassiuation they aocne^ 
 yon of " limiting freedom of action." These persons are the victims c! 
 wild ideas. This only ocoara to persons who are in that state when 
 having two distinct tbiuds before them they know not which ia which, 
 and in attainiug their ends they do not know that one means is not as 
 good as another. Ttiere seems to me no good in havioK an order of 
 advocates who shall be known as the rnfB«ns of pro(<ress. In a 
 represent ative coautry, I am for nsing force to maiutain law and 
 reason for changing it. He who woald not maintain law by force if 
 it was threatened by force, is a onward, who would abandon men to 
 carnage and society to tyranny. For conciliation I wonld sabstitnte 
 jnstioe — for dennuoiatioD exposition — for the doctrine of the nsefol- 
 nesB of piety I woald sabstiiate the piety of nsefolnesB. In pablio 
 afftirs if I have any merit it has been in acting apon these priDciple(<. 
 I wish the ingeuioas coautry to which I am going, which has given ns 
 so many nHetol machines, had invented one by which a speaker nnder 
 the greatest obligation to his hearers might be able to express his 
 thanks adequately to them. Were snch a machine perfected I sbi cM 
 have broa)iht it down to this dinner, as without some souh aid it is nut 
 in my power to make the acknowledgments in my mind to my own 
 satisfaction. A famoas friend of mine, who trusted me in matters 
 when confidence was of the first importance to him — Walter Bftvage 
 Landor — said at the close of his career : — 
 
 I strove with none — for none were rrorth my strife. 
 
 Nature I loved, and next to Nature— Art. 
 I've warmed both bands against the fire of life ; 
 
 It sinks, and I am ready to depart. 
 
 When that time comes I shall coant this night among the real things 
 which make the contentment of this life. 
 
 The journey ontward was made pleasant to myself and 
 those with me by the courtesies of the Canard Company. On 
 arriving at New York more interviewers came on board than 
 I had previously met at one time. Mr. Pknder, M.P., who 
 had received a collection of telegrams concerning the events 
 of Europe since we had left it, showed me news of our navy 
 before Alexandria, concerning which we were all interested. 
 Bat the interviewers only permitted me to give scant attention 
 to them, and entirely prevented me expreRsing the ackuow- 
 ledgments I felt to a deputation consisting of General Crooks, 
 Dr. WiNTERBURN, Dr. Broughton, and others, who had done 
 me the honour to come on board to welcome us (my daughter, 
 
hi. 
 
 hill 
 
 I'" 
 
 II 
 
 w. 
 
 14 A SECOND SIUIIT OK NEW LANDS. — MANHATTAN SHOBIiS. 
 
 Miss Emile ASHUR6T HoLYOAKE, and Mrs. Ethel Leach, 
 member of the Great Yarmouth School Board, who accom- 
 panied her to America) on behalf of my valued friend, Mrs. 
 Elizabeth TauMPiiON. The Sun, of New York, also sent me 
 word that a reception would be tendered me at Pittsburg by 
 the Kuigbts of Labour. But for the aid of my friend, Mr. 
 Oeoboe S. M'Watters, it would have been a long time before 
 I Hhould have been able to land. The New York Tribune had, 
 with its constant generosity to me, given information of the 
 objects which had again brought me to the American shores. 
 At length — when greetings on the " Soythia " were over — we 
 set foot on New York soil, and after visiting Mr. M*Watters's 
 family, and giving my companions a view of the bright Broad- 
 way and its railways through the air, we set out a few miles 
 over the ever pleasant sea to Coney Island, where, at Man- 
 hattan Hotel, we found ourselves in a wilderness of gaiety, 
 and a welcome brighter than all from Mrs. Elizabeth 
 Thompson, whose guests we were to be during many happy 
 dajs. Interviewers did me tihe honour to come down by the 
 trains; and on the pleasantest terraces in the world, with 
 the cool sea breezes about us, I conversed, and they wrote 
 columns, which the opulent and hospitable press diffused 
 over the laud. " Far from the madding crowd," as the 
 comprehensive interviewer of the Brooklyn Sunday Eagle 
 termed it, we held interlocutory dialogues. With leaders 
 and narratives, that journal devoted to me as much space 
 as would have made an entire number of the Times in its 
 earlier years. On the Sunday morning I went down to the 
 news- station of the hotel, and bought what copies were to be 
 had of the aforesaid Brooklyn Eagle. Finding myself charged 
 double price for the paper, I asked why that was. " Because 
 it is Sunday," was the answer. " Is that the penalty of the 
 country for reading newspapers on the Sabbath ?" I inquired. 
 The reply wap, " Wa,l, I guess it is." As it is my habit to 
 comply with the cubtoms of every country I visit, I answered, 
 " There is your money ; but I observe that your scruples as 
 to seventh-day reverence do not prevent you making double 
 profit. However, I will not trouble you to get me further 
 copies now, but to-morrow let me have six more." On 
 Monday I went down again to collect them, and again the 
 stallkeeper charged me double price. "How is this," I 
 asked; " Monday is not Sunday." " No, sir," he said, "but 
 you ordered them on Sunday." This was so sharp and clever, 
 and showed such a fine capacity for making reverence profit- 
 
A SECOND SIOBT OF NKW LANJB. — MANHATTAN SHORES. 
 
 15 
 
 able, the adcoitnesH was so worthy of the country, that I paid 
 the charges cheerfully, aa a well-earned tribute to one who 
 understood things. 
 
 The object I had in view — of procuring a Settler's Guide 
 Book for America— being approved by Mrs. Thompson, she 
 invited senator Henry W. Blair, of New Hampshire, to 
 meet me at Manhattan. Mr. Blair was a gentleman of 
 good presence, of sincere manners, and of rtady intelligence ; 
 clearheaded, wholesome-minded, and shrewd without 
 affectation. An advocate of temperance, without .^ .temper- 
 ateness either in mind, in sentiment, or in speech, so far as I 
 observed. He understood at one statement what I sought, 
 and defined it himself with so much accuracy and vividness 
 that when I made my report to our Government, on my return 
 home, I found no terms more forcible or fitting than those he 
 employed. He saw at once that the information wanted by 
 the intending settler lay everywhere about the country, in 
 departmental reports, in official publications, in Congress 
 speeches, in railway documents, in land agents' statements, 
 in newspaper leaders, in books of travel, in encyclopaedias, 
 and even in advertisements ; only requiring to be collected by 
 responsible persons and published by Government authority. 
 Such a book would have to be approved by the committee of 
 education, and Senator Blair is chairman of that committee. 
 Therefore, his knowledge of the kind of work required in 
 Europe, and his approval of it was a matter of advantage and 
 importance. He had travelled from the White Mountains to 
 come down to Manhattan to discuss the subject. 
 
 The general conversation of visitors at the hotels indicated 
 an increase of temperance sentiment in the short period since 
 my former visit. It was seldom that you observed any guest 
 having any indications of beer in his countenance. From 
 observations incidentally made in my hearing I learned that 
 a bibulous expression of face had come to be considered "low." 
 There were odd features about the Manhattan Hotel that may 
 be observable elsewhere, but I first noticed them at that place. 
 In the great dining halls, so many and so vast, a considerable 
 army of waiters are engaged, and certain groups are under 
 the direction of a superintendent to whom all difficulties ex- 
 perienced by a visitor, or inquiries he has to make, are referred. 
 All the waiters are clean shaved, having a moustache only, 
 but whenever I had occasion to ask for a superintendent, 
 there always appeared a gentleman without any moustache, 
 but wearing a pair of what we call in England, " mutton* 
 
 ^\ 
 
16 
 
 A SECOND BIOBT OF MEW LANDS. — MANHATTAN HHORBS. 
 
 III, 
 I III 
 
 I III! 
 
 rii' 
 
 ;' 
 
 i|i! 
 
 chop " whiskers. So, whenever I wanted a special table for 
 a chop I looked out for a gentleman with chops on his oheekH, 
 and he proved invariably to be the person able to make the 
 arrangement I needed. This device of bo shaving the face as 
 to leave a portion of hair to serve as a natural badge, saves 
 the expense of ribbon rosettes, or medals of office, and also 
 saves the pride of the chief waiters, who might object to 
 wearing them. This combination of oouHideratiou and economy 
 is highly creditable to American ingenuity. Another mode of 
 expediting buniuess is to induce all the waiters to have their 
 hair cut so nhort that the head seems to be merely painted. 
 This gives them a picturesque appearance, and, bebides, pre- 
 vents them wasting time in combing their hair, there being 
 nothing to comb. Hotel keepers in the New World are 
 masters of saving devices. Afterwards I observed that "poli- 
 ticians" and "bosses" also wore their hair cut short in this 
 way. As their wits are so constantly in exercise, the removal 
 of the hair may be necessary, as admitting better and cooler 
 action of the brains. The idea of cutting off the hair arose, 
 I believe, in ube days before the Atchinson, Topeka, and 
 Santa Fd Kailway ran its great civilising and peace-making 
 line through the " Kansas Desert" into New Mexico. In the 
 old times of wagon travelling, the Indians always had a good 
 pull at the long-haired travellers. Upon this hint, oft and 
 unpleasantly repeated, sharp New York "prospectors" took 
 to going down without hair. Great was the disgust of the 
 Indian at finding himself outwitted. He could scalp no 
 longer. There was nothing to lay hold of. And the Indian 
 gave up scalping. His nature did not change, but he could 
 no longer carry on business for want of material. Many 
 fashions have originated in this world that have not had so 
 sensible and prudent an origin. In truth the practice of 
 cutting the hair short has extended itself among men of wit 
 and mark in the State. But they have adopted it from a 
 sentiment of gallantry to women. The hair being counted 
 from time immemorial the glory of the human head, they 
 have generously resigned this distinction to women, who alone 
 in America gladden your eyes with golden or raven locks. 
 
LONG BEACH SHORK. — STORY OF MK. BRMHT'S PORTRAIT. 17 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 LONG BEACH SHORE. — STORY OF MR. BRIQHT'S PORTRAIT. 
 
 At length the bright days came to an end during which we 
 were the guests of Mrs. Thompsojn, at Manhattan, and we 
 accepted the invitation of Colonel Robert G. Inqersoll — sent 
 to me when in Europe— to spend ten days with him at Long 
 Beach, where the white sands stretch out miles before you, 
 appearing in the sunshine or moonlighi like a desert of snow, 
 bounded by the dark waves in the distance. The long line of 
 handsome tents, which, far apart, disport along the shore, 
 appear at first to the stranger like Arctic dwellings, and you 
 expect to find Esquimaux under them. We have no hotels 
 in England at all to compare with those of Manhattan or 
 Long fieach in extent, spaciousness, and freshness of their 
 clean wood compartments. They are not houses, they are 
 halls — not one hall, but a series of halls. They are not 
 mansions, they are settlements, capable of accommodating a 
 larger population than is to be found in many well-known 
 English villageH, with a tradition of a thousand years behind 
 them. The contrast between America and Holland impresses 
 itself upon the traveller. The houses of the Dutch are 
 generally hardly bigger than a pouncet-box, and you expect 
 to see them inhabited by Aztecs, while the churches of 
 Rotterdam and Haarlem, for instance, are loftier than St. 
 Paul's, and appear as large as the Nottingham or Great 
 Yarmouth market places. The minister has a sounding board 
 over his head, and his floating congregation seem so far from 
 him that he must feel as though he were addressing the people 
 in the next parish. Whereas, in the regions devoted to gaiety 
 in America, the churches are but of ordinary dimensions, 
 while their hotels appear as though they would accommodate 
 all the worshippers of Holland. They have churches at 
 the watering places, but they seem, in comparison to the 
 hotel, hardly larger than a sentry-box. 
 
 Nearer the sea than the hotel Colonel Ingersoll has a house. 
 His family and household, including his butler, coachman, 
 and other coloured servants from Washington, were there, 
 which made his home complete, pleasant, and convenient to 
 visitors. Though he had still on hand the duties of chief 
 
 1! 
 
 I 
 
 i\ 
 
I'lll 
 
 conoflol in the fatnouR State trial of Dorsky and others, then 
 about to be deoided, his radiancy of manuer was quite 
 undiminod. Wo found that the Amorioau proRS had not 
 exa$^^erated the tendtirnoHH and grace of domentioity of Mrs. 
 Inokrholl and hor daughters. Not leHS striking were the 
 knowledge and interest with which they dinoussed questions 
 speculative, moral, and political. Mr. C. P. Farrbll, publisher, 
 of New York Avouue, Washington (to whom a wise bold book iu 
 a gom which he examines like a connoisseur and values like a 
 collector), Mrs. Farbkll, near relatives of our host, and their 
 parents were there, as also Mrs. and Miss Mamie Inoersoll (the 
 daughter of the late Ebon Inoersoll, at whose grave the 
 colonel pronounced a memorable oration), adding not less to 
 the vivacity of the days we spent at Long Beach. Music of 
 famous quality was one of the luxuries of that agreeable sea- 
 side. The programme which daily announced the music to be 
 performed upon the immense terraces which formed part of the 
 far-extending hotel there, was adorned by a beautiful wingless 
 angel of proportions which meant at least a stature of twelve 
 feet, blowing a trumpet in the air. Among the music-loving 
 guests were the Baron and Baroness von Hesse. The baron 
 had had important experience in founding communities and 
 settlements. He told me that all colo..y planters, do what they 
 will, and sacrifice their means as much as they may, come to 
 be regarded sooner or later as speculators or impostors, and to 
 be called fools or thieves. Every man who expects to make 
 a fortune without discomfort, or acquire competence without 
 capacity, thrift, or industry, ascribes his ill-success to him 
 who brought him there. If a man becomes ill from any cause, 
 whether incidental to the season, to ignorant exposure, or 
 unwise living, he considers the founder of the colony 
 answerable for his malady. Colony planters may display 
 great qualities, make wise selections of places, and do great 
 good, as the second generation are found to own, but to the 
 great pioneer, who founded it, profit rarely comes, and 
 gratitude from those immediately served yet more rarely. 
 
 Mr. Dorsey, whom Colonel Ingersoll personally knew, and 
 in whose integrity he had entire belief, was, with other persons 
 connected with the Star Route affair, commonly regarded as 
 guilty of the charges made against them. However, public 
 impressions in America are not always infallible. The spoils 
 of office, which are liable to change hands at every presidential 
 election, breeds so many professional competitors for them, 
 that every public man supposed to profit by any great enter* 
 
land 
 9ons 
 as 
 kblic 
 soils 
 Uial 
 lem, 
 Iter- 
 
 prise which ho has matured, is considered to come into 
 posBession of his fi^ain by predatory Hkili. Colonel Inoerholl, 
 who makes it a rule — as unusual in a lawyer as it is creditable — 
 never to appear in a case which he does not believe to be just, 
 became the defender of Mr. Dorskv, and had to contend a^ainnt 
 the whole influence of the Ooverument. Great as was his 
 reputation for personal integrity, he was subjected to quite a 
 campaign of calumny. He put it to me thus : " Should I not be 
 base if I refused to defend a man whom I believed to be inno- 
 cent because the public thought him guilty? In defending 
 Mr. DoRSEY in the present state of public opinion, I am myself 
 saspected of some criminal complicity with his alleged guilt, 
 or of appearing in the case only from considerations of pro- 
 fesbional advantage. Bat I should be really criminal in my 
 own mind, and in the eyes of every honest and discerning 
 man who knows the facts, if I allowed an innocent man to 
 suffer, when it was in my power to save him." I agreed with 
 the intrepid advocate, who ultimately had the satisfaction of 
 obtaining a verdict in favonr of his client. 
 
 The forensic and platform brilliance by which oar host is 
 distinguished is hereditary in the Inqersoll family. One of 
 his ancestors held a post under the crown in the days of 
 George III. which preceded independence; and one of his 
 duties, if I remember rightly, was that of receiver of stamps. 
 On proceeding to the city where he dwelt, an excited crowd 
 intercepted him to get from him those believed to be in his 
 possession, and prevent their issue. The mob was not quite 
 sure what they wanted to be at, or what it was safe to do, 
 but still they felt like " killing him ; " and had he not been a 
 man of oonrage and wit, they would have ended by doing it. 
 As a pretext for further action they began by requiring him 
 to give a cheer for "Adams and Liberty," believing he would 
 never comply. He was riding on a white horse, when he 
 promptly stood up in the stirrups, and in a hearty way, with 
 a loud sonorous voice, did what was required. He then cried out 
 " Fellow-citizens, I now understand a passage in Revelations 
 which was never clear to me before — ' Behold a man rode on 
 a white horse, and Hell and Death followed after him.' " His 
 drollery saved him from the Puritan infuriates, who were 
 familiar with the Scripture, and astounded at the ready 
 application of the passage to themselves, and he was allowed 
 to pass without further molestation. 
 
 In the restaurants of Coney Island we fonnd a popular dish 
 to be "Jumbo Clam Bake," named after the famous elephant 
 
 . 
 
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tl!,i 
 
 
 (I ' 
 
 then recently imported from England. We sent him a ban on 
 onr arrival, for the great creature lived near us when he was 
 in Regent's Park, vi London. It was a satisfaction to find our 
 huge friend whom we had known, growing in stature and in 
 favour, and regarded as a kiog of beasts in the land of wonder 
 to which he had come. 
 
 Mr. Bright has an honest repugnance to disproportionate 
 estimate of himself or his services. A man of sense is aware 
 that men will in the end estimate him at his value, which 
 the majority, in the long run, discern pretty accurately, and 
 anything said of him which exceeds the truth is not praise 
 but dis-service, since it disposes persons, conscious of the 
 exaggeration, to distrust any true measure of merit in one 
 overiauded. Real praise, therefore, is a far more difficult art 
 than that of censure. Admiration may come from anyone 
 who is charmed, but praise can only be given by equals. The 
 quality a man possesses is more easily discovered by his praise 
 than his censure ; by the nature of his praise he betrays the 
 taste and attainment of his own mind. Blame may be given 
 without any ideal of excellence in the mind ; but praise implies 
 its possession. 
 
 When OuLESS was painting Mr. Bright, he, observing very 
 few things in the studio beyond an easel, a maul stick, and 
 some pigment of paint, said, " Yon do business, Mr. Ouless, on 
 a, very small capital." Mr. Bright being an artist in oratory, 
 none know better than he that a painter's capital was his 
 skill. The orator does business on the platform with less 
 sign 01' capital than the painter, for there is nothing to be 
 seen but himself. My townsmen in Birmingham, wanting a 
 photograph of Ivlr. Bright at full length, for a sculptor to 
 refer to in working on a marble statue, induced Mr. Bright 
 to sit to Mayall, who produced, with his accustomed aptness, 
 a work of art. Though of t.lmotit life size, it has no exaggera- 
 tion. Seeing my interest in it, Mr. Mayall gave me a copy 
 of it — which framed in a strong case with movable lid, in 
 which the portrait could be seen at will, yet calculated to 
 bear, without risk, a sea voyage — I took it to America. Mr. 
 MiLLAis baa painted Mr. Gladstone in a manner worthy of 
 descending to posterity, who will see the great Premier as this 
 age has known him ; but his portrait of Mr. Bright is a very 
 different thing. Excepting that it would sell fcr more, I 
 would for all purposes of pleasure and reality have M; wall's 
 portrait. It is the great orator just as we have seen nim in 
 his day of power on the platform, or as the House of Commons 
 
LONG BEACH SHORE. — STORY OF MR. BRIOHT'S PORTRAIT. 21 
 
 4- 
 
 has seen him when the ory goes through the oorridora 
 " Bright's np." The attitude is his, nnaffected and reeolnte. 
 His lips are compressed, as they are when the inspiration of 
 passion is on him. His look is dating and defiant, with the 
 sense of conscious power. Age has changed his physical 
 aspect, and he will no more appear the same, though his fire 
 is not yet abated. It could only be to oblige his constituents 
 that he recalled that plaiif arm expression before the camera. 
 Mr. ^^ENOELL Phillips said to me in 1879, " Ask Mr. Bright 
 if he will ever come to see his friends in America," and there 
 is no one whom Mr. Bright would feel more honour in meet- 
 ing than Phillips. 
 
 I put the question to Mr. Bright one day in the House of 
 Commons. " Tell Mr. Phillips," he said, " that the pe^^ple 
 of America will never see me." " Then," I said, " they shall 
 see you in the portrait I will take them." On my arrival I 
 presented it to my friend Mr. Charlton, of Chicago, who has 
 real honour for Mr. Bright, and who has more means than 
 any other man of enabling all who desire it to see it. Mr, 
 G. W. Smalley, of the New York Tribune, had given a des- 
 cription of the portrait in one of his letters, and great interest 
 arose thereby. The editors of Harper's Magazine were desirous 
 of engraving the portrait. I answered that as I had given 
 it to Mr. Charlton it was his property, and the decision 
 rested with him. The editor of the Century also expressed a 
 wish to engrave it ; and on learning that they had already 
 written to Mr. G. W. Smalley, of London, to furnish a paper 
 on Mr. Bright, to accompany the engraving, I declined a pro- 
 posal that I should write one myself, and asked Mr. Charlton 
 to permit the Century to engrave the portrait. Mr. Smalley 
 had published a small volnme, in which the character of Mr. 
 Bright, as an orator and politician, was delineated with more 
 judgment, force, and truth than by any other writer whom I 
 have read. With personal knowledge of the great orators of 
 Europe, as well as America, he has an eye of more precision 
 for English characteristics than an English writer could have. 
 Theet.'iraving, I believe, has been made to the satisfaction 
 of the Century, which has given us many fine portraits, and 
 it may appear now any month. 
 
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 1 I 
 
 ! I I 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 SINGVTLAR AMERICAN LAW AGAINST GIFTS, 
 
 Some unexpected events ooourred before matters reached the 
 stage recorded in the last chapter. On arriving at the Customs 
 House, at New York, the officers very courteously accepted 
 my assurance that I had no dutiable article with me, 
 save the portrait of Mr. Bright. A slight examination 
 of cur travelling rnnks was deemed sufficient. They 
 did not dispute my word that the great case I had with 
 me was what I declared it to be, a portrait of Mr. Bright ; 
 but they wished to see it themselves as a matter of 
 interest. To do this it was neoebgary to send for a carpenter 
 to unscrew it. They were delig^teil with it, and were the 
 first persons who saw it in America. Indeed, every officer 
 with scruples about tariffs soon gathered round it. It was 
 necessary for me to state its value. I said it had two values, 
 and I would declare both, as I could not tell which they 
 meant. The mere production of a photograph so large as 
 that would be, probably, £10 when the camera was at hand 
 and others could be produced, but, as it was the only copy 
 that could be exported, I should not sell it, if that was my 
 object, for less than ^0. But my intention was to present it 
 to a citizen of the States, and for the gratification of the 
 American public, to whom it would be shown. So the import 
 duty was fixed nominally at six dollars, the chief officer saying 
 the customs laws obliged them to make some charge, but that 
 if I represented to the authorities of Chicago that I intended 
 to make a gift of the portrait, they would, no doubt, repay 
 me the duty. I said I should nofi give theia that trouble, as I 
 willingly paid the six dollars. The officers of the customs 
 would, I have no doubt, have admitted it free had it been 
 within their d'ncretion. 
 
 Afterwards I had a more curious experience with the 
 authorities of customs. The Mayor of Brighton (Alderman 
 W. H. Hallett), who had promoted during his third 
 mayoralty the first Congress of Health held in England, 
 had caused to be published a handsome volume containing all 
 
kh the 
 lerman 
 third 
 ligland, 
 Ling all 
 
 the papers, and three fine portraits of Edwin Chadwick, C.B., 
 the chief originator of sanitary science, Dr. W. B. Richardson, 
 who was president of the Congress, and the Mayor, which was 
 added by the desire of others. The volume contained papers on 
 matters important in the household and not less so in cities ; 
 and in the cities of America such information is often needed. 
 The design was to give a volume to a hundred or more cities,and 
 also documents of scientific interest relating to Brighton, likely 
 to be useful in the coast cities of the United States. In paying 
 the freight I was informed that there was also a Aemmzid. of a 
 hundred dollars for custom duties. Protection is a good thing 
 I am aware, and many people need to be protected from evils 
 known and unknown ; but I was surprised to find that an in- 
 telligent country like America, thought it necessary to be pro- 
 tected fr.'>m information acquired at much cost by others, and 
 unobtainable in that form by themselves. When it was re- 
 presented that the volumes were to befflyen away, the customs 
 authorit:as caused me to be informedWat if I would write to 
 the various Institutes in view, and obtain letters from the secre- 
 taries testifying they were willing to receive such books, and 
 desiring copies to be forwnrded, the duty woul:l \m remitted. 
 If I remember rightly, the Customs went further, ard informed 
 me that if I would then send them the names and addresses 
 they would themselves direct and forward the books, which I 
 suppose meant that they would frank them free of cost to 
 me — which was quite a courteous offer to make. In answer, 
 I explained that the reason of the books being consigned to 
 me was that the difGiculty was great in England to find out 
 what institution might profit by them, or care for thiem in 
 America, and it was thought that during m.y travels in the 
 States I should find institutions willing to have them, and 
 could distribute them. This I was willini; to do; but to 
 ascertain that in New York it would be necessary to take 
 chambers and employ two or three clerks to look up all the 
 cities having sanitary associations, or iustitiutes having in- 
 terest in sanitary matters, and correspond with them and keep 
 open the office till the necessary letters were collected, which 
 might have detained me in New York a month and cost jEIOO. 
 Therefore, I |^id that, on the whole, they had better serve 
 the Brighton W)oks, as they did the tea in Boston Harbour at 
 an earlier date— empty the bale into the sea — when books, 
 like bread, cast upon the waters, might be found after many 
 days and do somebody good. It was then suggested by the 
 authorities that the matter should stand over, and that, as I 
 
 t^J 
 
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 '/ 
 'I 
 ■< 
 111 
 
 II [I I 
 
 Ml 
 
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 II, 
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 24 
 
 SINaULAR AMERICAN LAW AGAINST GIFTS. 
 
 was going to Washington, I might see the Commissioner of 
 Customs, and find ont whether it was in their power to dis- 
 tribute the books free of duty. 
 
 When at Washington, General Musset kindly undertook 
 to accompany me to the Commiss'oner of Customs, who very 
 readily paid attention to the matter, but came to the con- 
 clusion he had no power to authorise the remission of the 
 duty upon the gift books I had imported, and reminded me 
 that I must be &ware that he was bound by the terms of the 
 statute he had to administer. If it were otherwise, he should 
 have been very glad to authorise the distribution of the books. 
 I answered that I wished nothing that the statutes of the realm 
 (or the republic, if that was the right term) did not warrant, 
 but I should like to see the statute. This he readily produced, 
 and gave me at my request a copy of that portion which 
 concerned the question in hand, which was as follows : — 
 
 U. S. Castoms Tariff :^:^hapter III., Bection 5. Booke, mspa, and 
 oharts epeoially imported, hot more than two oopie.i in any one invoicn, 
 iu good faith for the nse of any society incorporated or eetabliebed foe 
 ptiiloBophioal, literary, or religious pnrposes, or for the enconragemeni; 
 Iff the fine arts, or for the nse, or by the order, of any college, 
 academy, school, cr seminary of learning in the United States. 
 
 Upon hearing this clause read, I remarked to the Com- 
 missioner that nothing save a minoi present could be 
 made to America, and that only by an intrepid and wealthy 
 donor prepared to take infinite trouble co make his gift. The 
 man who drew that clause must have been under the im- 
 pression that the United States was so ill-regarded a country, 
 that uo one would ever think of giving anything to it ; or that 
 it was so opulent and self-satisfied, as to be above receiving 
 any present, however useful or well intended. Mr. Evarts 
 has written one of those graceful letter&i.in which he excelr, 
 inviting Mr. Bright to visit America. Yet you have uo pro- 
 vision in your statutes whereby you can admit his portrait, 
 unless the importer pays a penalty Lj the Custom House for 
 his temerity in making the offer of it. I have experience that 
 by a law of courtesy and respect, higher than that of the 
 tariff, you will admit his portrait to be landed upon your 
 shores ; while under this law now read to me, it would require 
 a procedure as complicated as that necessary to run a, railway, 
 to get it transmitted duty free to its destined nwner. 
 
 At this point the commissioner was good enough to suggest 
 that I should make a declaration in writing as to the nature 
 of the Health Congress Volume, describing its actual contents, 
 that uo sale was sought, and no profit of any kind con- 
 
SINGULAR AMERICAN L.'.W AGAINST GIFTS. 
 
 26 
 
 lure 
 its, 
 bon- 
 
 templated on my part, or on that of the donor of the work. 
 It was then arranged that the question should be specially 
 considered. The Commissioner was sensible of the kindness 
 of the Mayor of Brighton in making such a gift to the American 
 cities. The required declaration being duly made and sub- 
 scribed, General Mussey, whose suggestiveness had oft been 
 equal to greater emergencies, asked the Commissioner whether 
 it was not within his knowledge that the Smithsonian Institu- 
 tion had a charter by which it was empowered to receive 
 consignments of books for literary and scientific purposes. 
 It was at once apparent that the general had *' struck oil," 
 and it was arranged that we should visit President Spemceb 
 F. Baird, of that famous institution, and consult him. We 
 crossed on our way Hooker's quarter, if I remember rightly 
 the name which the district acquired when occupied by his 
 army of defence. The proceedings in that quarter were 
 described to me as being such that they caused Satan himself 
 to perspire, who had mainly to attend to them in the hot days 
 of their encampment there. We beguiled ourselves in Hooker's 
 Land with discussing affairs of administration, and through 
 the forest in which the great institution is situated, until we 
 found it impossible to keep our ideas straight. Our principles 
 were dried and curled up before we arrived at the mighty 
 building. Its increase since I last saw it, its spacious and 
 splendid appointments were a wonder to me. The British 
 Museum, and South Kensington rolled into one would not 
 more astonish a visitor. The reading-room at South 
 Kensington contains nothing, generally, one wants to read ; 
 that at the Washington Institute contains piles of newspapers 
 issued the same morning, so that when detained there on 
 business you found it quite a human place to be in. Professor 
 Baird had not arrived, but was on his way there, and on that 
 day he was on his way several hours, but by aid of the 
 telephone, we could always ascertain at what point, and by what 
 business he was diverted from arriving. When an interview be- 
 came possible, he explained that the Institute did possess a char- 
 ter under which any consignment could be made to it free of 
 duty. I understood him to say that they received a bale of goods 
 a day from Europe — that the vessels bring them free, the 
 railways transmit them free, and the Government admit 
 them duty free ; so somebody does give America something 
 and they get it. Upon asking Prof. Baird how a person 
 found out the way of addressing him, he answered that they 
 had an agent, Mr. Westley, of 28, Essex-street, Temple Bar, 
 
 
'Ih 
 
 ] ;tif 
 
 III i : 
 
 III 
 
 i'f II 
 
 London. I then said that I had lived nine years opposite 
 his door, and that since I had left home I had travelled 
 6,000 miles to his (Prof. Baibd's) chambers to discover that 
 what I wanted was on the opposite side of my own street, 
 and that a very narrow street too. I afterwards mentioned 
 to Mr. Fbelinghuysen that if they would publish a Guide 
 Book with only that Westley fact in it, it would save us a 
 great trouble in Europe. Before leaving England I had 
 made inquiries of persons o£5loially connected with America, 
 and it never occurred to them to refer me to Mr. Westley, 
 of Essex-street. I had seen a notice on his door that he was 
 agent to the Smithsonian Institute, which I took to mean 
 that he collected their debts. The existence of the char- 
 ter, the knowledge of which w&q so important to me, I 
 believe is yet unknown to Mr, Westley, for when I spoke to 
 him of it he displayed no knowledge of it. I believe it is 
 entirely an American seoreii, and one remarkably well kept. 
 One function of the Smithsonian Institute, to which I know 
 nothing similar in England, is that the president undertakes 
 to receive gifts intended as aids to civic intelligence, and to 
 find out where they would be useful and forward them. This 
 the professor kindly undertook to do for me, and so I made 
 the consignment of the reports of the Brighton Congress of 
 Health to him. 
 
 Before these inquiries were completed in Washington, we 
 had begun to turn our footsteps Canadawards, where, having 
 the advantage of consulting Mr. Charlton, I was enabled to 
 go in a bee line to the person or place I sought. 
 
 There are several San Autonios in America. The most 
 famous is one in Texas, which is a town. When the late 
 Mr. White, M.P. for Brighton, was travelling In the West, 
 he heard, one evening in the hotel, a glowing account of a 
 beautiful San Antonio river. The way to it was difficult to 
 traverse, but it seemed worth the risk to behold a sight 
 described as so enchanting. Mrs. White relates that they 
 went the next day. They were appalled at the hills 
 they had to surmount, and the ravines and channels they had 
 to cross. Masses of lava and boulders lay in their way. The 
 strong-limbed and sagacious horses spread themselves out, 
 right and left, climbing gallantly over the rocks and 
 the mounds, giving the occupants of the carriage the 
 opportunity of falling out on whichever side they pleaded. 
 They went on for hours and for miles, the higher they 
 climbed and the further they went, the less they saw 
 
of San Antonio. At length they gave up the parsoit, glad if 
 they shonld reach their hotel again without broken bones. 
 At dinner they met again the persons who had allared them 
 by their description of the journey. " We never got to the 
 river" said Mr. White. "Neither did we," answered his 
 informant, "we told yon of our adventure, and of the prospect 
 held out to us, and we were glad that you should go on 
 the same expedition, with the hope that you might discover 
 it." Both explorers came to the conclusion that there was 
 no river, and that its existence was a pure myth of the carriage 
 driver of that quarter. The non-existence of San Antonio 
 was never likely to be disproved, since it was pretty certain 
 that every traveller would give up the search, intimidated by 
 the perils of the way. As some authors are said to deserve 
 the gratitude of mankind, more for the passages they have 
 blotted than for those they have retained, so in some parts 
 of the continent of America more demands are made upon 
 the admiration of the traveller, for the beauties which he has 
 never discovered than for those which he has seen. It is 
 prudent, therefore, in the enterprising visitor, to make sure 
 beforehand of the existence of scenes which he is invited to 
 inspect. 
 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 SUSPICIOUS PEOFLB — MAD NIAGARA. 
 
 No one who has but moderate experience of the ways of 
 ^ome of its people can doubt that America is a land of 
 adventurers. The natives of the nation include as many 
 persons of good faith and direct manners as any community 
 in the world. The additions from Europe, so plentifully 
 made to the population, comprise many of doubtful designs. 
 We all know in daily life that one who has dubious ways 
 hardly ever believes that another individual will act dif- 
 ferently from himself. He who is not single-minded himself 
 will always suspect others of being sinister. No sooner does 
 

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 St) 
 
 ftUSPIOIOUS PEOPLB. — MAD NIAOABA. 
 
 any person make a proposal for the common good than it is 
 said there that " He has some axe to grind," meaning he has 
 some personal interest in view. Sometimes, when a strange 
 gentleman was annonnoed, I would inquire, "Do you know who 
 he is or what he wants?" The answer would commonly bSi 
 " He is eomebody with an axe to grind." Sometimes this was 
 true, for a visitor would ask me an interview at a most inoon- 
 venient hour on the ground that he had important information 
 to give me. After a time it would transpire that the visitor only 
 had in view to tell me of his own affairs and seek my aid. This 
 mode of introducing the subject always incensed me ; whereas, 
 when an American gentleman wished for any reason to interest 
 me in things concerning himself, he told me at once his object 
 and that if any time my leisure permitted, he would like my 
 opinion, and never pretended that his object was to promote 
 my interest, when it was to promote his own. It always gave me 
 pleasure to make time for such interviews. The affairs of 
 strangers did interest me. The editor of a leading Irish journal in 
 New York had very pleasantly commended the project of the 
 Guide Book, which he knew I sought, and wrote very usefully 
 about it . Shortly after he learned from the American papers that 
 Mr. Gladstone had approved of the object, when the same editor 
 immediately wrote against it, although the book was likely to 
 be of most use to his own countrymen. At the suggestion of 
 Mrs. Thompson I called upon him, and found him a very 
 intelligent, energetic gentleman. After explaining to him 
 that the proposed book was exactly what he first took it to be, 
 he said, "Mr. Holyoake if there is one place hotter than 
 another in the lowest conceivable hell I would put the British 
 Government into it." I said " That that was very interesting ; 
 but I certainly hoped that the Government, who had imperilled 
 more interests and made greater sacrifices than any Govern- 
 ment that ever existed to serve his country, might be more 
 fortunate than to fall into his hands." The editor was well- 
 informed and lively in expression, and on other subjects we had 
 pleasant conversation. At the same time I could see that if I 
 had suggested to him that the Home Bulers were better in 
 hell, he would have thought me an uncivil visitor. He 
 suspected my object was political, and politics had ceased to 
 be civility with him. 
 
 Discussing this subject at Long Beach with Mrs. Ingebsoll, 
 she said, " You will find in this country a number of people 
 who think there is something behind everything quite different 
 to what is put in front, and it will save you both trouble and 
 
SUSPICIOUS PEOPLE, — MAD NIAGARA. 
 
 29 
 
 misappreheDsion to meet that surmise by the facts whioh 
 oonfate it." Accordingly, I wrote to the editor of the New 
 York Tribune the following letter, which, appearing in those 
 columns, was very widely read, and, fortunately, proved 
 effective for its purpose : — 
 
 Sir, — To mistake ooinoideooei for eanaes Is the intelleotnal malady 
 of the mnltitnde. If advantage shonld arise from any act, it is assumed 
 that the advantage mast be the motive of the act. As my visit to this 
 ootintry has been bronght under this rule, I shall value the permlBsion 
 to say a few words in your columns thereupon. 
 
 Siuoe yon did me the honour to state in the Trimne that I have 
 oome to this country to submit to the Govemmenf, the advantages 
 whioh would result to all the States of the Union from the publication, 
 on " official authority," of an Emigrant Ouide BooJi, I am told that 
 many persons ask, "What is my object r" I answer that, as an 
 Englishman, my object is that such of my countrymen as may turn 
 their footsteps to this fertile land of enterprise may do so intelligently, 
 knowing how to avoid the crowded towns, where they are not wanted, 
 and betake themselves to the districts, Sonth and otherwise, where they 
 wonld be welcomed. Then I am informed that the meaning of the 
 question is, " What peonniary purpose have I in this matter ? ** If the 
 anxiety of these inquirers is, that every man should have some personal 
 profit out of every project for the public good, I am obliged by this 
 generous solicitude for my advantage. The reply I have to make 
 is, that I have not thought of this. Had I any personal interest to 
 promote in what I am doing, it would be disingenuous to conceal it. 
 Indeed, there would be a certain baseness in reticence upon it, since 
 what I might say would have a savour of false pretence in it. Permit 
 me, therefore, to aver, once for all, that I am the agent of no company. 
 I am not in the pay of any person. I am not connected directly or 
 indirectly with any business interest in England, America, or Ganada. I 
 represent the interest of the emigrant alone. The book I seek would not 
 benefit England as a nation ; it would only benefit those who emigrate, by 
 giving them guiding information. It will benefit the United States and 
 Canada, by causing well-informed emigrants to enter the land. It will not 
 benefit me. I do not own a single acre of land in the whole world. I am 
 unattached to any enterprise. I have no share, nor part, nor lot, nor 
 profit, in any speculation. I entered upon this work in 1879 at the 
 request of the Co-operative Guild of London, who wished me to ascer- 
 tain, daring my visit to this conntry in that year, what facilities existed 
 in America for co-operative emigration. Altogether I spent $500 in 
 doing it. On my return to England I wrote 40O letters in answer to 
 inquiries sent to me, besides a public report upon the results delivered 
 in Exeter Hall, London. The Guild never gave me a cent, nor paid 
 for a single postage stamp. They defrayed the hire of the hall in whioh 
 I spoke. They had no funds for further aid. . 
 
 Learning that I was bent upon returning to this country in the hope 
 of completing the work I had thus begun, two members of the English 
 Parliament, Sir Charles Forster and Professor James E. Thorold 
 Bogers, made representation to the Premier that a portion of this 
 expense might rightly be accorded from the Public Service Fund. The 
 grant thus made by Mr. Gladstone was made public in England, that 
 all whom it concerned might know it. Hearing of this, an American 
 lady, believing the " Guide " in question would be useful to this 
 
 > 
 
 
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i 
 
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 i;;t 
 
 Ill 
 II,. 
 
 ill 
 
 'ii 
 
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 8U 
 
 SUSPICIOUS PEOPLE. — MAD NIAGARA. 
 
 oonntry, lent me 9500 in aid of it. Thia gift I myself pobllihed, as it 
 ia, in my opinion, eontrary to frood faitli tbtt anytliing of ttte kind 
 ihoald be nnknown in pablic afifaira ; and I aboald have beaitated to 
 aooopt it bad I not been aware that Mra. Elizabeth Tbompaon waa 
 regarded here, like Miaa Florence Nifihtingale in my own ooontry, aa 
 nnoonneoted with any party in the State, and that no political or 
 intereated aignifioanoe oonld attach to her gift, prejadioing the object 
 for which it waa made. 
 
 Peraonally nnknown in America save to jonrnaliata, some atateamen 
 and eome antbora, it may be neoesaary for the Batiefaotion of the 
 (reneral reader to add au antecedent ioatance, Many years ago the 
 Bight Hon. John Bright did me the service of drawing Lord Glarendon'L 
 attention to my propoaal that the Foreign Office aboald iasae a book 
 for the immigrant classes similar to the one now snggeeted for this 
 oonntry. That project involved me in considerable labonr. Lord 
 Clarendon sent consols to me who wished detailed information npon 
 the project and plan. When the books appeared I made reports npon 
 them in the London Times. For all this work I never asked anything. 
 I never received anything. I n^ver made it a reproaob that I was offered 
 nothing. I thonght it onffioient hononr that the State sbonld adopt 
 then, as it has done on another occasion, a snggestion of mine which 
 waa deemed of practical value to the nation. No man can do all he 
 wishes, or everything be should, but he can, so f .r as be is concerned, 
 keep a public qnestion free from venality and prevent it being put 
 back by sinister associations. This ia not a merit ; it is a duty. I do 
 not claim to be different from or better than any other person : but I 
 do claim that in this matter of the Emigrant Guide Book I shall not 
 be regarded as acting from intereated motivea. 
 
 The only other point npon which it appears that explanation would 
 be usef nl relates to the ^ Atieh Government, whom some suppose have 
 also an " object " in this matter. They have none. The proposal of 
 this Guide Pock is mine, its prosecution is mine, its responsibility ie 
 mine. Tbey did not originate the project. They have given me no 
 appointment. I carry with me no instrnctiona from them. They do 
 me the honour to accredit me as a person who may be lielieved on his 
 word, and as approving of " inquiries in connection with the emigration 
 of operatives." Nothing more. Learning that the undertaking may 
 exceed my available means, they have made me a small grant in ai(l 
 thereof, just as the American Government might, if it came to their 
 knowledge that Mr. Edison's experiments in creating a new light were 
 beyond his pecuniary power to complete, accord him aid to that end. 
 In doing this they would not be answerable for bis project if it failed ; 
 while if their assistance promoted its success they would confer an 
 advantage upon all nations who profited by his invention. I do not 
 compare myself to Mr. Edison. Yet that comparison, if permissible, 
 illustrates the case of the British Government. 
 
 Some men have water minds, refracting whatever is before them. 
 The Btraightest fact which enters their liquid nnderstanding aeema 
 bent. But believing that the majority can see things as they are, if 
 put in a clear medium, I make f us attempt so to present them. 
 
 After a day at Coney Island, discussing the Land Question 
 with a friend of many years, Mr. Thomas Ainge Devyr, of 
 the Irish World, who originated the theories that Mr. Davitt 
 has since dwelt upon, we parted from Madame Errani, surely 
 
SUSI'ICIOUS I'KOl'LE. — MAD NIAGARA. 
 
 9h 
 
 9 no 
 
 vdo 
 
 hie 
 
 UOD 
 
 may 
 
 aid 
 iheir 
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 end. 
 
 lea ; 
 
 r an 
 
 not 
 
 lible, 
 
 lem. 
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 LVITT 
 
 ately 
 
 <ihe bri^Uteal cicerone in New York, we went up the Hadson to 
 Albany — lying all morning in the bright sun watching the 
 wondroua Catskill Mountains, where Rip Van Winkle used to 
 wander. Surely, there is uo river so bright and no mountains 
 of more mysterious loveliness than those of the Catskills t 
 Mr. Charlton, of Chicago, Mr. Witton, inspector of canals in 
 Canada, Mr. Drysdale and Mr. Littlehales, of Hamilton, 
 who was afterwards my host during many interesting days 
 there, camo down to meet us at Niagara, which I little 
 thought to see again. We drove over the awful Suspension 
 Bridge, which spans the Falls, and explored Iris Island. 
 Because in 1799 some goats kept there perished during a 
 fierce winter, as no one could get to them, it has since been 
 called Goat Island, but it is still " Iris Island " — for all the 
 wonders of light are there. We saw more than the bow in 
 the clouds, we saw several bows on the water — not set above, 
 they lay low before us, and waited while we contemplated 
 their infinite beauty. 
 
 Americans, who remove town halls, hotels, and churches, 
 have not yet moved Niagara. But it is moving itself. The 
 Horse Shoe Fall is another thing now. The arch is broken ; 
 the colour is diminished ; the thunder is less. Again I was 
 impressed, as before, with the mighty Niagara River above, 
 which feeds the Falls ; " rapids " they are called, but rapids 
 is not enough of a name; the waters come down with a 
 ferocious alacrity. Captain Webb must have had all the 
 courage of his race, to imagine that he could swim in that 
 insane and iron torrent, and live in the whirlpool below, which 
 is a perfect maelstrom of rage and force. 
 
 If there was one thing I thought fixed in this world it was 
 Niagara, but that had changed. The perfect Horse Shoe Iri- 
 descent Arch, so long the wonder of all spectators, is no 
 longer what it was in 1879. On parting from it in that year, 
 I never doubted that, should I ever return, that would be the 
 same as when I left it. The change made me think that 
 parting would have less sadness in it were we a little wiser. 
 Everything we leave, whether scenes of nature or friends, are 
 never the same when we meet them again. Friends may be 
 better, some new quality may have arisen, and re-acquaiutance 
 may be a new pleasure. But what we knew, whether a moun- 
 tain, a cataract, a field, a flower, or a friend, is changed when 
 we see it again. The very sun and stars have new aspects, 
 where we have opportunity of minutely observing them. All 
 nature, all humanity, are changing every instant and every 
 
 
« 
 
 ii 
 
 : 
 
 III, 
 
 I I ■ 
 
 hour ; we constantly part from them to see them no more as 
 they are. We are always parting for ever from everything 
 we know, Daily life is incessant adventare upon unknown 
 experience and untried existence. Living itself is not a mere 
 dream, as some think, hut a romance of realities. Niagara, 
 with its rolling volume, its mighty rage, its thunder, its 
 rainbows, and its changes, teaches many lessons. 
 
 Before I left it, I went round to the great hotel which 
 confronts it, to visit Mr. Herbert Spencer, who lingered there 
 many days, soothed by its mighty roar. Mr. Van Burbn 
 Denslow, president of the Philosophical Society of Chicago, had 
 sent me a letter, through Mr, Charlton, in which he explains 
 the theory he has for acquiring the art of sleeping, and as he 
 describes himself as the champion non-sleeper of the United 
 States, he must have had great need of studying the subject. 
 We were now fairly on the threshold of the wonders of Canada. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 sleepy MONTMORENCY. — FAMILIAR ADVENTURES. — EDUCAT ON OF 
 
 SETTLERS. 
 
 Niagara is undoubtedly mad — the maddest of all waterfalls 
 and cataracts ever known. No commissioners of lunacy, how- 
 ever reluctant to entertain extreme opinions, would doubt it. 
 The riotous and irresponsible rapids are beyond all control or 
 restraint. Far away in the same wonderland of Canada — 
 beyond Toronto and Ottawa, and Montreal, two hundred 
 miles up the St. Lawrence, beyond the great cliffs of Quebec 
 — are the wise, sleepy, perfectly sane falls of Montmorency. 
 The feeding waters of the Montmorency wander lazily over 
 broad plateaus of rock, apparently reflecting whether they 
 will proceed or not. You see the stream rather than hear it 
 arrive, and reaching the mighty ledge of the deep gulf it 
 hesitates, as the maiden Dorothea might (whom Cervantes 
 describes) at the sudden sight of the fall before her ; but 
 
ADVENTURES. — EDUCATION OF SETTLERS. 
 
 88 
 
 lOF 
 
 Ills 
 Iw- 
 
 lit. 
 
 or 
 
 down whioh she desoenda with trembling and delicate 
 steps, never rashing, never resting, bat, without preoipitation, 
 spreads her silver beauty, wide and deep, nntil it blends with 
 the waters waiting her plea rare below. The silken tresses of 
 a goddess would not be softor and lovelier than these coursing 
 waters of the ooquetish lilontmoronoy. Niagara descends 
 beoauBi) it must ; Montmorency because it chooses. But 
 gentle .)s is the descent of the mighty stream, it has an ada- 
 mantin d incessantness, and presents to-day the samo aspect 
 it wore when Generals Wolfe and Mountcalm looked down 
 upon it. In the cold seasons, the clouds of spray at the base 
 freeze into a crystal mountain, over which sledges sweep far 
 away over the aea of ice around. 
 
 There are many loose French about the suburbs of Quebec. 
 We met one near Montmorency, who lived on the Falls, or by 
 them, or out of them. He excelled all beggars in his vocation, 
 cap in hand. He did not ask, but demanded a gift. His conduct 
 was not entirely one- sided, for to anyone who bestowed no coins 
 upon him, he gave them a piece of his mind, and very liberal 
 measure ho made. No sooner had he collected all the dimes 
 and quarter-dollars available, than he carefully surveyed the 
 whole roadway around, from the eminence on which he had 
 taken his stand, to make sure he missed none who had 
 arrived, and that none others whom he could waylay were 
 arriving in sight. He slipped away for a brief period into a 
 neighbouring hotel to get half a pigeon and a glass of sherry 
 to refrenh himself after the fatigues of the morning collection. 
 I had heard of beggars having rights, and travellers having 
 none, but never saw the rights so systematically put in force as 
 here."!' Let it be added he was the only beggar aboutt 
 
 There is an intermediate Fall at Ottawa, which, in scenic 
 beauty of its kind, is surpassing, because it can be seen 
 entirely with all its tributary waters from the mount on which 
 the Parliament Houses stand. Some day, when Ottawa grows 
 into a princely capital, and the lumber piles are swept from 
 the banks of the Ottawa river, and the saw mills which hide 
 the beauty of the Ghaudi^re Falls — if I remember the name 
 rightly — people will make a journey from Europe to see them. 
 Every year adds to Ottawa the graces of a capital and seat 
 of government. 
 
 * Mtindicanoy as a proftiision thowB bntiineBB capaoity elsewhere, 
 as in Palis, where in the line St;. Lazare the other day, a chair vi&a 
 seen, on which lay • bat Mith the folio wing notice : — "Please don't 
 forget the poor beggar, who is jast i^kuig bis breakfast." 
 
 5 
 
,1 ■' 
 
 84 
 
 SLEEPY MONTMORENCY. — FAMILIAR 
 
 The land, over which yon pass to the Montmorency Falls, 
 is possessed by an enterprising individnal, who makes every 
 visitor pay a handsome toll for visiting the wonders which he 
 clid not create and does not exalt. If we in England were to 
 let uhe Tower of London and its jewels be rented to a show- 
 man, it would be a less scandal than for a great people to let 
 the unrivalled wonders of nature pass into the custody and 
 control of speculators. Both America and Canada repine 
 that they lack historic buildings, yet they possess historic 
 glories of nature in which millions of years are funded, con- 
 trolled by adventurers, and disfigured by caprice. America, 
 as well as Canada, still agree to leave Niagara in this condi- 
 tion. The Canadians would do well to clear their side, when 
 every visitor would gratefully flock there. 
 
 As we were leading the sleepy Falls of Montmorency in the 
 carriage, we looked out to see whether the Frenchman had 
 got sight of us, fully expecting he would take a chaise and 
 come after us to collect some other impost which we had 
 evaded paying. The sun was in great force, and I was reposing 
 in its delicious rays, thinking how delightful it was to ride 
 into Quebec on such a day, when in an instant of time we 
 were all dispersed about the road. In a field hard by, where 
 a great load of lumber as high as a house was piled, a boy who 
 was extracting a log set the upper logs rolling. This 
 frightened the horses. They were two black steeds of high 
 spirit, and therefore very mad when alarmed. Had they 
 run 0^ in their uncontrollable state, they would, if they 
 escaped vehicles on the way, have arrived at a narrow bridge 
 where unknown mischief must have occurred. The driver, 
 who was a strongly built Irishman, about sixty, with good 
 judgment and intrepidity, instantly threw the horses on to 
 the fence, which they broke, got into the ditch, and serionsly 
 cut their knees. I leaped out into the ditch with a view to 
 help my daughter out of the carriage ; but she, nimbler 
 than I, intending to render me the same service, arrived at 
 the ditch, and assisted me out, merely asking " whether four 
 quietly disposed persons being distributed over the Dominion 
 at a minute's notice was a mode of travelling in Canada ? " 
 Mrs. Hall, who was riding with us, also escaped unhurt. Her 
 huBbauo deliberately remained some time to see what the 
 horses were going to do, but finding them frantic, he also 
 abandoned the carriage. A vehicle coming by, the driver 
 very civilly offered to take Mrs. Hall and me into Quebec, 
 so that we might order another carriage to fetch those 
 
ADVENTURES. — EDUCATION OF SETTLERS. 
 
 85 
 
 left behind. I thought it very kind of tho owner to accord 
 us such ready succour, but my sense of obligation was 
 very confused when, arriving at our hotel, he said he would 
 trouble me for two dollars for conveying us from the scene 
 of the accident. The man to whom I still feel grateful was 
 our Irish driver (for whose name I have sent), and am 
 sorry I cannot record it here, and to whom I would make 
 some other acknowledgment, for we owed our safety to his 
 prompt action in risking horses and carriage. Mr. Hall 
 made strong representations on his behalf at the hotel that 
 he might have honour instead of blame for what occurred. 
 
 It may be as well to recount at once the few turbulent 
 adventures by the waj, which occurred to us. Returning from 
 Guelph, which lies below Hamilton, in the Niagara corner of 
 Canada, where we had been to see the famous Agricultural 
 College, we were one night on the railway in what the Scotch 
 call the " gloaming." My daughter remarked that the scenery 
 outside the carriage was more fixed than she had before 
 observed it, and upon inquiry it appeared that we were fixed 
 too — for the train had parted in the middle, and the movable 
 portion had gone peacefully on its way to Hamilton. We 
 were left forming an excellent obstruction to any other train 
 which might come down the line. Fortunately, the guard 
 could see the last station we had left, two miles from us, 
 and see also the train following us arrive there. We hoped 
 that the station-master would have some knowledge of 
 our being upon the line, and stop the advancing train : but 
 when we saw it leave the station on its way to us we were all 
 ordered to leave the carriages, which was no easy thing, as 
 the banks right and left of us were steep, and the ditch at the 
 base was deep. However, our friends, Mr. Littlehales and 
 Mr, Smith, being, strong of arm and active on a hill, very soon 
 drew us up to a point where we could observe a collision with 
 more satisfaction than when in the carriages. Fortunately, 
 the man who bore the only lamp left us, and who was sent on 
 to intercept the train, succeeded in doing it. Ultimately we 
 arrived at Hamilton only two hours late. When we were all 
 safely at homOj one lady, who accompanied us, fainted — 
 which showed admirable judgment to postpone that necessary 
 operation until it was no longer an inconvenience. One lady 
 fainted in the midst of the trouble, which only increased it. 
 The excitement made fainting sooner or later justifiable, 
 although an impediment, but I was glad to observe my 
 daughter omitted to faint at any time. 
 
 S 
 
86 
 
 SLEEPY MONTMORENCY. — FAMILIAR 
 
 The other ocoasion when misadventaretook place was when 
 we were orossiag the Tesnqne Valley, below Santa F^. The 
 party occupied three carriages; road, there was none, and 
 the horses knew it, and when they came to a difficulty — either 
 a ravine or bill — the driver would give them the rein, when 
 they spread themselves out with good sagacity, and descended 
 or ascended with great success. One pair of horses broke the 
 spring of their carriage, making matters unpleasant to the 
 occupants ; another pair broke the shaft, which, cutting them, 
 made them mad, and they ran away. The carriage in which 
 I was remained sound, and I had the pleasure for once of 
 watching the misadventures of my friends. The river was 
 low, the sand was soft, and the distance through the Tesuque 
 Biver was considerable, and we calculated that no horses 
 were mad enough to continue their efforts to run through it, 
 and we had the satisfaction of seeing them alter their minds 
 in the midst of it, and continue their journey in a sensible 
 manner. 
 
 On proceeding from Niagara we went with our pleasant 
 friends to Hamilton, where Mr. John Smith, the chief emigra- 
 tion agent there, had received instructions from the Canadian 
 Government to pay us every attention in his power, and 
 during the many days we saw Hamilton and its great suburbs, 
 his powers were exerted very pleasantly on our behalf. One 
 of our excursion mentioned, was to the college of Guelph. 
 It is surrounded by a vast acreage on which all kinds of 
 agricultural experiments can be made. The dormitories, 
 dining-rooms, and museums were on a most wholesome scale, 
 as respects space and perfect cleanliness. There were sons 
 of noblemen among the pupils ; the sons of tradesmen in 
 Ontario, in which State the college is situated, have board, 
 lodging, and instruction for £25 a year. Youths from else- 
 where, some from England, are received at ^0, and those who 
 choose to earn money by their husbandry have it put to their 
 credit. The president, Mr. Mills, was at the trouble, after 
 the dinner to which we were entertained, to show us all the 
 features of the place. There is nothing of the kind in 
 this country so complete and so economical. Cattle of the 
 finest European breeds are kept in stables and fields, and 
 march on to the platforms of the lecture-rooms, where 
 their points are discoursed upon and verified by the 
 pupils. Youths passing through this college know all 
 about agriculture, cattle, crops, soils, climate, and what- 
 ever a settler should know. The illustrations in the reports 
 
lere 
 
 [the 
 
 all 
 
 lat- 
 
 3rtB 
 
 published by this college, are most entertaining and in- 
 strnctive. For instance, four oxen of the chief known 
 breeds of the world, are sliced in the same parts and 
 drawn in colours so realistically, that the very plates look 
 savoury. The most ignorant housewife who saw those joints 
 delineated would see at once which breed of beast to buy of, 
 and would know when she entered a butcher's shop what 
 breed the shopkeeper had on his counter ; which is more, 
 probably, than he would know himself, unless he had been at 
 Guelph. The education of settlers, so complete and on terms 
 within the means of ordinary persons, I have not heretofore 
 seen. The president, to whom I put the question, was of 
 opinion that a more limited intellectual education and the 
 rough duties of a settler's life might be taught to youths of 
 ten or twelve years, and made industrially self- supporting. 
 Here is a field in which philanthropy might supply the 
 conditions of buildings and some small support, so that 
 the children of mechanics could be taught how to become 
 settlers. In countries where land is to be had the fortunes 
 of millions may be made if they have first learned to live on 
 land. If Mr. Mundella would run over some recess and look 
 at Guelph, he might find the means of imparting an industrial 
 character to our board school training, which now it lacks, 
 and tends to bring up young people to be clerks and prigs, 
 instead of loving enterprising labour, being fitted for it, and 
 anxious to engage in it. 
 
 Hamilton has noble views of land and water, stately 
 buildings, imposing gasworks, and ever-extending manu- 
 factures. In Mr. Littlehale's garden, before his door, 
 beautiful humming birds came and displayed their dainty 
 colours on the branches of trees. I did not expect such 
 visitors in Canade . 
 
 > 
 
 a 
 
 1 
 
88 "VISIT TO OARLYLB'S sister. — CO-OPERATIVE LECTURES IN 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 VISIT TO CARLYLE'S SISTER. — CO-OPERATIVE LECTURES IN TORONTO. 
 — INTERVIEWS WITH THE CANADIAN GOVERNMENT, 
 
 Among the attrnotions of Hamilton, not the least was the 
 fact that it was the residence of Mrs. Hanning, Thomas 
 Carlyle's sister, whose name occurs in recent books relating 
 to the Chelsea sage as Janet Carlyle. Mrs. Hanning, soon 
 after her marriage, which took place when she resided near 
 Manchester, went to Canada with her husband, and has 
 resided in Hamilton many years. Her residence is what in 
 England we should call a pleasant detached villa. Quite a 
 country garden surrounds it, from which she gathered a bright 
 bunch of flowers for my daughter, when we visited her, an 
 act of pleasant familiar country life at home, which made us 
 forget that Niagara was hard by. Mrs. Hanning has a full- 
 length sketch of her illustrious brother, in which he appears 
 reclining against a wall, in a careless manner, with hat in 
 hand. It appears to be a sketch by Count D'Orsay. Carlyle 
 was quite a young man then. She has also a bookcase filled 
 with the costliest editions of her brother's works, which he 
 had sent her from*time to time. All his volumes on Cromwell 
 and Frederick the Great are there, and his last book 
 on John Knox. They all bear affectionate inscriptions 
 written by himself. One book which interested me was one 
 given by Mrs. Carlyle to Mrs. Hanning. It was when she 
 was living near Manchester. It beaj^s the inscription '* To 
 Janet Carlyle, with Jane Welsh Carlyle's affectionate re- 
 gards. Comely Bank, January 10, 1827." It was not long 
 after her own marriage to Carlyle, and apparently she had 
 not anything more costly to send a3 a memorial of her having 
 entered the family. The book was one of her earlier school 
 books, being a volume of examples in eloquence and com- 
 position of the last century ; a book which happily had not 
 influenced her own style, which was natural, bright, and 
 elastic, beyond anything I observed in the book, which bore 
 an earlier inscription than the one I have quoted, namely, 
 *' Jean Welsh, 1806," written with attempts at ornament and 
 
TORONTO. — INTERVIEWS WITH THE CANADIAN GOVERNMENT. 39 
 
 the letters dotted round as a child writes its name for the 
 first time. The book was undoubtedly sent as a memento of 
 regard, and might have been intrinsioally interesting to Miss 
 Janet, and no doubt was, since she has preserved it to this 
 day. 
 
 Viewed in some aspects, it must be owned that Garltle 
 was the greatest ruffian in literature since the days of Dr. 
 Johnson, but, like Dr. Johnson, he had the great redeeming 
 virtue of honesty and heroic love of truth ; but by idolising 
 power, without defining or limiting its uses, he has 
 taught modem revolutionists > ferocity unknown here- 
 tofore. Neverthelecs, no man has inculcated self-help 
 and self-trust as he has, and hia noble sense of justice 
 was shown in the letters of his wife, which, at his desire, 
 Mr. Froude has published, although the impressions they 
 would make Garlyle knew would be against himself. 
 
 On remarking to Mr. Froude that to publish her letters 
 was an act of justice to her memory, "Yes," answered the 
 great historian, " but who thinks of doing justice to his wife." 
 The nature of the sisterly fidelity of Mrs. Hannino towards 
 her brother's friend, Mr. Ft; oe, the reader may see in the 
 papor contributed by me to tuw Nineteenth Century for August. 
 The object of these papers being to relate matters not else- 
 where recorded, I say no more here on this subject. No one 
 who reflects can help admiring Garlyle even while he blames 
 him, since the things against him were published by his own 
 order to vindicate his wife, whom, absorbed in his own ideas, 
 he had neglected while she lived. The singular thing is that 
 Mr. Froude, who published these works in obedience to 
 Garlyle's wish, who desired him as his friend to do it, has 
 been censured, and indeed abused, as though he had been the 
 authoif of the Letters. It has really been very noble of Mr. 
 Froude to incur all this censure himself, through fidelity to 
 his friend, and it has seemed to me an act of justice to record 
 that Garlyle's sister had honour in her heart for Mr. Froude. 
 
 As protection in America and Ganadahas considerable influ- 
 ence on co-operative success, protection will be referred to here 
 but briefly, as it is elsewhere spoken of in the article in the 
 Nineteenth Century, already mentioned. People very prosperous 
 are not likely to enter upon the slow, prudent, patient, but 
 sure methods of co-operation. America and Ganada being 
 prosperous now, and so many avenues of enterprise being 
 open to the people, co- operation will not be carried through 
 from the inspiration of need, as it has been in England, but 
 
 
 
 m 
 
K 
 
 ! Ill 
 
 from conviction that it saves trouble, takes adulteration 
 by the throat, and makes equity profitable. Two effects 
 of protection naturally make great impression upon people, 
 it appears to increase manufacturing enterprise and the 
 public revenue. As, however, manufactures are supported 
 by the people who pay a higher price for them, and since 
 the customs' duties are also paid by the people v. bo con- 
 sume the articles imported, the protected people put their 
 hands iu their pockets to pay for their own *' good times," 
 which led Mr. Goluwin Smith to say one of those unrivalled 
 phrases which abound in the Bystander, that Governments 
 imposing protection are under the impression that " the people 
 can be taxed into prosperity." Georoe Eliot tells us that iu 
 England "a glorious war time was felt to be a peculiar 
 favour of Providence towards the landed interest." In 
 America and Canada protection is the peculiar favour of 
 Providence towards manufacturers. Besides, it has the 
 mornl effect of preventing working people becoming too rich, 
 and thereby corrupted with the " filthy lucre " of this world. 
 With a considerateness to the people not often shown by 
 ** their betters" elsewhere, manufacturers and dealers in 
 these two countries take upon themselves the melancholy 
 risk of being too well off. 
 
 Two sagacious friends in Hamilton, to whose kindness I had 
 heretofore been indebted, Mr. H. B. Wilton (Inspector of 
 Canals) and Mr. D. M'Cullogh (Commissioner of Customd), 
 advised me that there were two statesmen in Canada whom 
 the Government would be sure to consult concerning the 
 relevance and practicability of the Emigrants' Guide Book I 
 had come to solicit, and it would be well that I should first 
 see them and ascertain if the project was one that had the 
 elements of international utility in it. As opportunity offered 
 I sought interviews with these gentlemen, who in the 
 friendliest manner gave t'.me to the consideration of the 
 question, and undertook to communicate their impressions to 
 the Premier, Sir John A. Macdonald. This was no promise of 
 courtesy by which the visit of a stranger is sometimes 
 abbreviated or terminated. It was fulfilled with a generous 
 promptitude which was a great advantage to me. 
 
 Before leaving Hamilton I had the pleasure of spending an 
 afternoon at Dundurn Castle, the residence of Senator 
 M'Innes. The castle commands views of the great waters 
 adjacent, while the abounding park before it affords happy 
 dayp ^f recreation every year to the people of Hamilton. 
 
TORONTO. — INTERVIEWS WITH THE CANADIAN GOVERNMBNT. 41 
 
 The bright tents erected for their aooommodation, and the gas 
 and water supplies running underground, with the view 
 that picnics may be festivities, surpass anything I can re- 
 member being done by a lord of the manor in England. 
 Lord CoLERiDOE will regret not being able to visit Dundurn 
 Castle, whose civic hospitalities to the people would in- 
 terest him. On the afternoon when I was there, tea 
 was provided for the ladies who accompanied us, while 
 over cigarettes and claret, our host discussed with his 
 political visitors, Canadian questions. Senator M'Inmes 
 seemed to me a concrete embodiment of energy, without 
 excitement. It was impossible not to be impressed with the 
 clearness both of thought and expression, and amplitude of local 
 and national information, with which he illustrated the topics 
 upon which we sought information. He had been on a visit 
 to Manitoba and newly explored provinces out there, and had 
 been as surprised as delighted to find an English-like park and 
 river, or lake of water, brightening the prairie, constituting 
 scenes of fertility and beauty beyond even his experienced 
 expectation. 
 
 An advertisement appeared in the Hamilton paper saying 
 that "by the invitation of a number of citizens" I should 
 deliver a lecture on "Parliamentary Oratory in England." 
 Mr. B. E. Charlton, of that city, presided, Mr. F. Maokklcan, 
 Q.C., and Mr. O. Tuckett spoke afterwards. This was my 
 first address in Canada. Of course, my object was not to 
 illustrate oratory itself, but to explain, for the entertainment 
 of those curious in the matter, the characteristics of the great 
 Parliamentary speakers during the last forty years, and the 
 rhetorical principles by which their great tame was attained. 
 At Toronto we had the pleasure of being the guest of 
 Professor Goldwin Smith, at the Grange, the most English 
 manorial house I had seen in that country or America. Quaint, 
 strong, and capacious, with endless dark-panelled rooms, 
 bright with paintings and other ' 'gns of historic opulence. It 
 was built, I understood, by an ancestor of Mrs. Smith, who 
 held some high legal appointment in his day, which escapes 
 my memory now. By request of the Co-operative Society of 
 Toronto, made to me by Mr. Piddington, at whose house I 
 met many advocates of mark in the city, who take part in 
 a£Eairs of progress, I delivered my first lecture on co-opera- 
 tion in Canada in the Albert Hall. Mr. Goldwin Smith 
 presided, and opened the proceedings in a speech of that 
 freshness, grace, and unfaltering precision, in which, to my 
 
 ^ 
 
 g 
 
; 
 
 / 
 
 ii 
 II 
 
 !l 
 
 !4i 
 
 mind, he excels Lord Coleridge. At the Oxford Conj^ress, 
 Mr. GoLDwiN Smith made a short speech, which will enahle 
 any who heard it to recall his manner. The pleasant 
 associations of that evening will long linger in my memory. 
 
 Before we left Toronto, Mr. Smith drove as through the 
 principal parts of the city, showed us the glories of the 
 University, and was at the trouble to go to the top with us, 
 and from that distinguished eminence, pointed out to us the 
 far extending glories of Toronto. To accompany us about a 
 great building over which he must have been so often, was 
 more than civility. 
 
 We next proceeded to Ottawa, where I had the honour of 
 interviews with the Premier, Sir John A. Macdonald, the Hon. 
 J. H. Pope, the Minister of Agriculture, and Mr. John Lowk, 
 the distinguished secretary of that department. Though the 
 labour of preparing the Guide Book would fall upon Mr. Lowe, 
 he accorded it his indispensable approval. The Premier in- 
 vited me to dinner at the Bideau Club, at which the chief 
 Ministers of State were present. The only other English 
 guest, besides myself, was the Hon. Mr. Bethel, of our 
 own House of Lords. Another night, I and my daughter 
 dined with the Minister of Agriculture, when several ministers 
 were also present, and Mr. Bompas, Q.C, of England. After- 
 wards my daughter had the honour of accepting an invitation 
 to luncheon with Lady Macdonald. Of course, these count- 
 less civilities are gratifying to me to record, but that would 
 nofi be a sufficient reason to relate them — the better reason is 
 that they show the friendliness of the Canadian Government 
 to the interest of the emigrant whom they believed me to re- 
 present. In this way pleasant facilities were afforded me of dis- 
 cussing with official personages the object and character of the 
 Guide book which a E uropean settler would welcome. E arly in 
 this year such a book was issued, which, being compiled from 
 materials collected by the Government, written by its 
 authority, and published in its name, the public can trust. 
 At the time of its appearance I described in the Times news- 
 paper the interest and extent of information which Mr. John 
 Lowe has infused into the work. 
 
 I left Ottawa all too soon. In an uncalculating hour, I had 
 accepted an invitation to speak in Montreal, and telegraphed 
 for further latitude of time, but was informed that personal 
 invitations had been sent to more than three hundred citizens, 
 ncluding professional and public persons, which invitations 
 could not be recalled. Having, as I trusted, some repute for 
 
rcesB, 
 nable 
 lasant 
 mory. 
 ih the 
 \i the 
 ith U8, 
 U8 the 
 kbout a 
 sn, -was 
 
 inour of 
 tie Hon. 
 
 lugb the 
 r. Lowe, 
 mier in- 
 ihe chief 
 English 
 L, of our 
 daughter 
 Iminiatera 
 1. After- 
 invitation 
 ise count- 
 lat ■would 
 reason is 
 vernment 
 me to re- 
 me of dis- 
 inter of the 
 |. Early in 
 ^iled from 
 
 in by its 
 
 can trust. 
 
 Imes news- 
 
 Mr. 7oHN 
 
 lour.lhad 
 elegraphed 
 Lt personal 
 3d citizens, 
 I invitations 
 repute for 
 
 keeping faith in my own country, I did not want it to be 
 thought that my word was not to be relied upon abroad. Olad 
 as I was at tb? prospect of visiting Montreal, I left Ottawa 
 with reluctance and regret not yet extinguished in my mind. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 UNFAMILIAR FACTS ABOUT CANADA. — CANADIAN CO-OPERATION. 
 
 Though I left Ottawa with regret I have not forgotten it, 
 nor the information with which I was favoured there. Canada 
 needs to be better known, is destined to be better known, and 
 deserves it. For comprehensiveness of facts and compactness 
 of statement concerning the unfamiliar land, the reader will 
 not easily find anything more instructive than the article 
 upon the Dominion, by H. B. Witton, in the " Cyclopaedia 
 of Political Science," published by Band and M'Nally, 
 of Chicago. We have no similar book in England. Witton 
 calls attention to the difference between old and new 
 Canada, which few understand. The Canada our fathers 
 knew "was but a fringe of settlements along the heavily 
 timbered banks of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa and shores 
 of great lakes. It had no prairies and no accessible seaport. 
 The Canada of to-day has fine harbours on both sides of the 
 continent, and virgin prairies nowhere surpassed. East and 
 west, Canada now extends from ocean to ocean, and north and 
 south from the frozen sea to the frontier of the United 
 States." Mr. John Lowe, in the Government Guide Books, 
 shows that, including the areas of its rivers and lakes, 
 Canada covers 3,610,000 square miles, being nearly 18,000 
 square miles larger than the United States, with Alaska 
 (the last American acquisition) combined, and is the physical 
 equivalent of the kingdoms of Italy, France, Belgium, 
 Germany, Austria, the British Islands, Russia in Europe, 
 Sweden and Norway." Here is a splendid choice of lands 
 end climates. The settler may choose the latitudes of 
 England, Paris or Rome, Germany or Norway, and 
 

 U i 
 
 (J 
 
 ill 
 
 II,, 
 1? 1 1 
 
 / 
 
 44 UNFAMILIAR FACTS ABOUT CANADA. — CANADIAN CO-OPEBATION, 
 
 other countries of Europe. Sir Johw Macdonald quo 
 day made some remarks which threw more light on 
 European conceptions of Canada than any other I heard. 
 He said artists were the defameris of Canada. They all paint 
 the snows, sle(1^es, and ice, and the people in furs. The 
 Buperbhued fruit, the magical vines, the golden harvests, the 
 forests, the flowers, the splendid rivers and glories of tropical 
 seasons the great land has, we never see painted. These ap- 
 peared to me as sagacious, observant, and original observa- 
 tions — the unfamiliar facts of the Canadian continent being 
 presented in few words. The Dominion, he said, was vast 
 beyond European conception — ripens tomatoes in the open 
 air — which cannot be done in England — grows tobacco, and 
 supplies wines with a frost-crisped flavour, which flat 
 southern lands never know. Mr. Lowe mentioned what 
 few would expect, that " eighteen kinds of grapes ripen in 
 Ottawa in the open gardens." The ground, kept warm in 
 winter by a covering of dry snow, is fertilised when the snow 
 falls, and when the warm sun pours down its rays, things 
 grow faster than money at compound interest. To workmen 
 of England, or Europe, a country in which active labour is 
 suspended six months in the year must be a paradise of 
 industry and repose to those who have skill in using the seasons. 
 
 On the visit to the college at Guelph, I met an editor of 
 manifest experience, with whom I conversed concerning the 
 Guide Book I had in my mind. He deemed it " unnecessary, 
 as everything was already in books." I begged him to name 
 one, as it would save all further trouble in procuring another. 
 That he failed to do. He subsequently gave an account 
 of great interest of mistakes strangers were under as to the 
 country. I asked " where he found those facts." He " did 
 not find them," he said, *■ they were acquired in his own 
 experience." I answered "Yes, and it is that sort of 
 experience which is wanted in a book accessible to those 
 who need to know facts. He then contended that "any- 
 one could see what he saw in ten minutes." " Undoubtedly," 
 I replied, " if he had had ten years' experience on the spot." 
 People can only see what they have acquired the power of 
 seeing, and there is nothing which can impart that power 
 like experiences. In America, I often heard these kind of 
 objections ; in Canada, only on this occasion. The Govern- 
 ment at Ottawa took the practical view of the need of a 
 responsible and explicit Guide Book and issued it. 
 
 WiTTON gives the population in 1871 at more than three 
 
 !V,1 
 
 ' . 
 
UNFAMILIAB FACTS AHOUT CANADA. — CANADIAN CO-OPKRATION. 45 
 
 millions and a half. Lowe gives tbat of 1881 at more 
 than four millions, an increase of 600,000 in ten years. 
 The Catholics amount to a million and three quarters, 
 the Fresbyterians to three quarters of a million, the Metho- 
 dists to as many, while the residue consist of other faiths, 
 80 that when 40,000,000 are added to the population, for which 
 there is plenty of room, society will be as varied as in the 
 United States. It is not lacking now in attractions which 
 Europeans appreciate. 
 
 It is well understood now by the testimony of independent 
 travellers, who have spent more time in Canada than I did in 
 1879 and 1882, that it is a land where men can live with 
 satisfaction. The new north-west contains great unoccupied 
 areas, where, apart from Australia and New Zealand, people of 
 Anglo-Saxon, Teutonic, and Scandinavian blood can find 
 plenty of good land waiting occupancy, and familiar conditions 
 of climate and industry. One who lately went 2,000 miles 
 through the country, 1,000 of the two on horseback and in 
 wagon, which enabled the country to be seen and inquired into 
 thoroughly, reports to the Daily News that on the belt of a 
 thousand miles extending from Minnesota to the Rocky 
 Mountains, the winters, though colder than in the north of 
 England, the dry atmosphere is invigorating, and a temperature 
 of lOdeg. below zero ia not nearly as trying as one of lOdeg. 
 above in a sea coast country. The Canadian Pacific route, 
 which lies from two to three hundred miles further north, has 
 colder and longer winters and shorter summers, but long 
 enough for growing wheat and oats, as the experience of 
 Manitoba settlers shows. 
 
 A writer of wide and accurate information, Mr. S. E. 
 Dawson, in his interesting " Handbook of Montreal," 
 remarks that "where the temperature is 20 degrees below 
 zero, the frost does not penetrate far into the soil, which is 
 protected by its mantle of snow, and roots and plants are secure 
 from injury until the spring, which returns wiih a sudden and 
 magical power astonishing to Englishmen accustomed to 
 reluctant and lingering springs." The mean temperature of 
 summer is that of Orleans in France, and the mean winter 
 temperature resembles that of Moscow in Russia. The 
 •' Guide Book " written by Mr. Lowe gives such full informa- 
 tion on this head that any settler can choose his temperature 
 for himself. America having torrid temperatures in some 
 parts, includes places where malaria may lurk about as it 
 does about Rome. Canada appears to be free from these 
 
 I 
 
 
 t» 
 
•nil 
 
 11; 
 
 riuks, and to posHOHn pertuaneDt healthiDOHH, save the discom- 
 fort of oold, whioh, being periodio, is a measurable enemy, and 
 being a dry and not a damp enemy, is less formidable and more 
 manageable than strangers suppose. 
 
 But enough of this. I quite share the reader's prejudice 
 against useful information, whioh is generally dull, and always 
 seems a digression. Sinoo, however, many Europeans have 
 friends in the country, and intending English settlers are 
 seeking its shoren, and Americans run over the border on 
 excursions of pleasure and business, there are many who 
 have an international interest in knowledge of the great 
 Dominion. Still I am always bhy of utility. I was one of 
 the earlier readers of the publications of Lord Brouoiiam and 
 Charles Knight, of which it was said : — 
 
 If there sbonld be another flood 
 
 For refut^u to them fly 
 Thongb all the world should bo nabiuergtd, 
 
 Thbir bookd woald still be dry. 
 
 When at Niagara, a captain in those parts invited myself 
 and friends to a drink of sherry to welcome me to Canada in 
 EngliHh fashion. We were six in all. Mr. Charlton, in 
 assenting for me, made the condition that it should be but 
 one drink, and that ended it. Otherwise, some one would next 
 invite the captain to a drink round with him, and each in turn 
 must have repeated the invitation, which would have ended 
 in thirty ii^ drinks. Had I taken my share of them, I might 
 have r>een six Canadas, while one seemed as much as I could 
 hope to master. 
 
 Mr. John Smith, the Canadian emigrant agent at Hamilton, 
 has a Bureau, to which persons prepared to offer employment 
 to emigrants communicate. Those who have friends are for- 
 warded to them — those who have some capital and a destina- 
 tion are directed there — those without friends or means are 
 provided for until they can be placed in some employment. 
 The emigrants who say they "can do anything" are the 
 worst, as they are persons who, as a rule, do not want to work 
 — what they want is to be porters or clerks in a bank, or 
 messengers in the Customs. 
 
 Since temporary relief was provided for those in obvious 
 need, Mr. Smith was asked if he was not sometimes imposed 
 upon by persons mingling with the arrivals. He said, •• Very 
 rarely. He knew an emigrant when he came into his hands." 
 Being asked in what way, he answered, "By the smell," 
 meaning that passengers who lived a fortnight in the steerage 
 
UMFAMILIAx. FACTS ABOUT CANADA. — CANADIAN CO-OPKBATIOM. 47 
 
 boro for some time the odours thereof about them. The 
 Government have considerately arranged that Mr. Smith shall 
 provide a building with warm baths, so that emigrants can 
 bathe on their arrival, and enter a clean country in a dean 
 condition. To poor mothers with children, who are unable 
 on a sick pansage to bathe at all, a bath on landing must be 
 both refreF hment and luxury. 
 
 The Bigns of a settler who is going to succeed are not many. 
 He munt be healthy, not old, willing to do anything, and does 
 not drink. From all I heard, I came to the conclusion that 
 whisky is bad for crops, and that he who ploughs with a 
 bottle turns up bis own grave. These two maxims would 
 save thousands of settlers. 
 
 Mr, PiDoiNOTON's place of business, in Toronto, is described 
 as the " Largest Store in the Dominion," and seemed to me to 
 answer to the description. It was as diversified, as protracted 
 in its passages, and as interesting as Noah's Ark. Certainly, if 
 Noah had as many things in that wandering boat of his, he must 
 have had perplexing moments. I was at Mr. Piddinoton's that 
 I met with other co-operators, and Mr. Jury, the president of 
 the store. Mr. Jury informed me that their society had 252 
 members at that time, and paid 1 per cent to an educational 
 fund. I do not remember seeing this feature in the balance 
 sheet of any co-operative society in the United States, though 
 in a proposed society in Cincinnatti, of which the prospectus 
 was sent me in 1880, an Instruction Fund was set down. In 
 Montreal there is a fine Co-operative Supply Association, of 
 which the president is Mr, Matthews, a gentleman who takes 
 real interest in increasing the equity and good faith of com- 
 merce and its economy of procedure. On the plan of the 
 Civil Service Society of London, the Montreal store occupies 
 larger and brighter business premises (unless those being 
 rebuilt in the Haymarket prove more cheerful and spacious 
 than other stores). It was owing to Mr. Matthews's influence 
 that I was invited to speak in the Synod Hall. It is proof 
 that there is intellectual liberty in Montreal as well as in New 
 York, since I was permitted to speak on co-operation within 
 those quiet, pleasant, sacerdotal walls. The interior more 
 resembles the Society of Arts in London — the best conference 
 room we have — than any other I spoke in abroad. This was 
 the first lecture on co-operation which had been delivered in 
 Montreal. My aim was to explain in what way co-opera- 
 tion conduced to morality in private life, to economy in com- 
 merce, and in what way the Co-operative Supply Association 
 
 
 
i«H| 
 
 111'' ' 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 1' 
 
 ilhi 
 
 II ' 
 II t 
 
 Vi 
 
 i; 1 
 
 brought to the doors of the middle and upper classes those 
 advantages the English store famished to the working 
 class. I spoke also in another hall on the invitation of Mr. 
 George Martin (an eminent photographer in that city) and 
 Dr. M. O. B. Ward, the subject chosen being •• My Early 
 Religious Days." Except in New York and Washington, I 
 spoke nowhere to audiences known to know so much as in 
 Toronto and Montreal. In the Toronto Store, and the Supply 
 Association of Montreal, Canada has two excellent examples 
 of forms in which co-operation has been perfected in England. 
 In qualities of judgment, persistence, and in appreciation of 
 methods of business which require no apology, Canadians, so 
 far as I came to know them, seem to me to excel Americana. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 LAST DAYS IN CANADA. 
 
 One of the allurements to Montreal was to see again Mr. 
 George It^es, and the great Windsor Hotel, where he resides, 
 which still seems to me distinguished for its fine proportions 
 and grand solidity. In afiaiib of high progress (there are, 
 I suppose, affairs of high progiess as well as of " high politics ") 
 Mr. Iles continues to take no mean interest, and contributes 
 no mean aid by his pen. It was he whose telegram induced 
 me to leave Ottawa against my will. The Grand Trunk train 
 had left the last station where sleeping bci:ths could be 
 engaged before the fatal summons reached me, and my 
 daughter readily agreed to sit up in the cars all night rather 
 than fail in reaching Montreal. The journey to Brockville, 
 where we arrived at midnight, was beguiled by the courtesies 
 of the Hon. Mr. Cabling, the Postmaster-General, who 
 travelled with us that far. The carriages, which were built 
 of light-coloured Canadian wood, were of perfect workman- 
 ship, and presenfied the cleanest interiors I had seen. I do 
 not say they were more beautiful than the Chicago and Alton 
 carriages — that would not be allowed. However, they can 
 
grow trees in Canada. In one of the romantic walks around 
 the Parliament Houses of Ottawa, yon come upon a section 
 of a Douglas fir, eight feet in diameter, sound to-day as a 
 target plate. The tree was 300ft. high, and was 566 years 
 old when Columbus discovered America. 
 
 At the Windsor, Montreal, we were assigned the chambers 
 considered distinguished by ha 7ing last been occupied by Mr. 
 Herbert Spencer. Afterwards we were the guests of Mr. 
 and Mrs. William Hall, of University-street, and saw the 
 stately architectural glories of Montreal, its Mountain Park 
 overlooking the mighty St. Lawrence, and the wondrous 
 bridge nearly two miles long, which spans it — defying ice, 
 torrents, and storms — of which the iron tunnel, through which 
 the trains run, which it bears on its broad back, is as 
 marvellous as the bridge itself. Not less in another way 
 astounding is the Mount Boyal Cemetery, where wondrous 
 shrines cover miles of sacred acres. Of all the diversions of 
 Montreal, eating oysters with Mr. Hall, at midday, in the 
 sunshine of Bonsecours Market, is not to be forgotten ; nor 
 the pleasant freedom of St. James's Club, accorded me by the 
 President ; nor the trip to Quebec up the St. Lawrence, 200 
 miles in sunset and moonlight (which we owed to the courtesy 
 of the manager of the Bichelieu Company), in the steady 
 steamer where cleanliness and luxury abounded. The mighty 
 expanse of water and the solemn receding banks, as the sunset 
 transferred them to the care of the moon, was a sight un- 
 imaginable in England. We saw only the tamer aspects of 
 the great river, which runs 1,500 miles through a majestic 
 land, where, from the rocks along its Bides, the vast steamer 
 appears but as a butterfly upon the water. 
 
 Beyond Quebec is the largest and gayest lunatic asylum I 
 saw anywhere. This age has no brighter marl^ impressed 
 upon it than those made by science and civilisation as shown 
 in mercifulness to the mad. We looked into the house where 
 the body of General Mountgalm was brought after the battle 
 in which he fell, and were glad to lind it, as we were told, 
 unchanged. I hate people who deface or obliterate, or who 
 change, or even " improve," historic things. The new glory 
 of Quebec is LordDuFFERiN's Terrace. The Canadian Govern- 
 ment is self-supporting, as it should be in that self -helping land, 
 and the Governor-General is like the gilded cupolas and 
 turrets, which are always bright in that dry climate ; he is 
 not the sbructure, but ,he imparts to it luminousness and 
 richness of finish. How Lord Dufferin fulfilled this ideal 
 
 I 
 
 ^ 
 
'Hi I 
 
 lIllM , 
 
 llr 
 III.. ■ 
 
 6D 
 
 LAST DAYS IN CANADA. 
 
 needs no telling ; his genius ,is seen in his terrace. From 
 ridges of narrow streets and from scant plateaus alone could 
 the romantic heights before the city be viewed. By building 
 arches along the cliffs of the town he spanned a useless 
 vacancy, and stretched across it a long, spacious and delight- 
 ful terrace, adding to the area of the city, like recovering 
 land from the sea. The Hanging Gardens of Babylon — 
 judging from the plan of them — did not present so fine a 
 scene to the spectator upon them as Lord Duffebin's Terrace 
 affords to the visitors and people of Quebec. He gave to 
 the grim cliff city a more than Parisian boulevard over the 
 river and the rocks. 
 
 The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa F6 Bailroad Company 
 held an exhibition in Montreal of the cereal and other wonders 
 of Kansas and New Mexico. My host (Mr. Hall) strolling in, 
 found a pleasant gentleman in charge of it, and invited him to 
 dinner. In the course of conversation, he asked me who I 
 took him to be. I answered exactly what I thought, which I 
 always assume is what a questioner wants to know, and said, 
 a Catholic priest,, with a Mexican face and a Massachusetts 
 accent. I little thought how many pleasant days we were 
 destined to spend together. He had received instructions 
 from Mr. Nugent Townsend to find me out in Canada, and 
 arrange for our journey to New Mexico. By the accidental 
 mention of my name at the exhibition, my host discovered 
 that his guest was " wanted," and unknown to me arranged 
 our meeting. Mr. Cabgill was of Massachusetts by birth, 
 and had the accent and the well-chiselled Mexican out- 
 line of features, but he was not a priest, though he looked 
 the character. He had a buoyant gravity, if such an 
 expression is intelligible, and an American eagerness which 
 gave you the impression of alacrity and entire trustworthiness. 
 Of this belief I remain. I had been to Quebec since we last 
 met when he promised to join me at the Grand Trunk station. 
 But for Mr. Iles and Mr. Hall I should never have found 
 station or carriage at night, and did not know where I was, 
 in the wilderness of people who crowded everywhere, but 
 from out of the mass at the exact moment came my travelling 
 friend, who arranged ail things for me during the days and 
 nights of the Grand Trnnk journey from Montreal to Chicago. 
 
 At Toronto, we were again recipients of the ceaseless atten- 
 tions of Mr. Joait Smith, the Canadian agent of Hamilton, and 
 took reluctant farewell in our minds to pleasant Canada, not 
 forgetting the tea and cream of Guelph ; the wise talk of the 
 
LAST DAYS IN CANADA. 
 
 51 
 
 president, James Mills, and the country mansion in which the 
 college began, and to which has been added rooms, halls, 
 lecture theatre, and museams, as needs required and means 
 permitted ; so that the college resembles the British constitu- 
 tion, in which everything has preceded from something which 
 wect before, in which nothing was planned, and all has grown. 
 We thought of the brave settlers who make glad the vast and 
 growing Dominion: — 
 
 His snrely ia a bappy lot who dwells 
 
 In pleasant pastar^H far removed from town, 
 
 Whose life from sanrise till the ena goes down 
 
 The same anohangiug peaoef al (itory tells ; 
 
 Deep in the roBtic lore of fleecy fells, 
 
 Prond of the harvest he himself has sown, 
 
 The spreading meadows that his hands faave'mown, 
 
 And the great cattle that he bays and sells. 
 
 For whom the placid night brings slnmber sweet, 
 
 Stirred by no sonnd of any dancing feet, 
 
 Lit by no light of any laaghing eyes ; 
 
 Whose qniet days, anmoved by vain desire, 
 
 From summer's saulight to the winter's fire. 
 
 Creep slowly on, antil at last he dies. 
 
 So Justin H. M'Cabthy slugs, but the Canadian settler has 
 around him " dancing feet " and " laughing eyes," and sees 
 himself many wondrous things before he dies. 
 
 At Detroit, at dead of night, when ghosts do appear ; only on 
 the Grand Trunk the conductor does not allow them on the 
 train — the curtains of my bed were withdrawn by the Rev. 
 Dr. Bruce, who had conducted Mrs. Leach " on board." 
 They call out at railway stations out there, who goes " on 
 board." Mrs. Leach, who had been on a visit in Michigan, 
 rejoined us at that point. On Sunday morning, long before 
 we reached Chicago, we were met by an agent sent from Mr, 
 Cbablton's office, who has the faculty of identifying strangers 
 in the cars, by some occult art only known on the Chicago and 
 Alton line, and before the church bells were ringing we were 
 at Mrs. Charlton's bounteous table sipping cream punch — 
 of a perfection unknown in any other part of the world ; eating 
 oysters stewed in milk ; chickens and chops, accompanied by 
 white wine; peaches, cofiee, and mission grapes, until we 
 really knew we were in Chicago. 
 
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 CHAPTER X. 
 
 MR. CHARLTON'S JOURNAL. 
 
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 It is a* sound rule in forensic procedure that an advocate 
 should, very early in his address, inform the court what he 
 is about to prove. It enables all concerned the better to 
 judge ojc his facts. Therefore, before entering New Mexico, I 
 will quote an itinerary written by Mr. James Charlton for a 
 writer in the Thiifs, some features of which some readers may 
 have seen in those columns. It is so lucid and vehement in 
 its narrative that in its complete form it gives an inimitable 
 bird's eye view of our great journey, which owed so much to 
 his presence, foresight, and influence : — 
 
 At 12-30 neon, October 3, we leave Obioago, via the Ghioago and 
 Alton Kaiiroad. We take enpper in a handaome roomy diuing-oar, of 
 beantif nl exterior and interior, in wbiob Beats have been reserved for ne. 
 What is not nsnal in moat dining-cars, the tables are large enough for 
 comfort, and exclude any sense of crowding. Daring the night wi> 
 oroBS the Mississippi at Lonisiana, Mo., and the Missonri at Glaogow, 
 Mo. Next morning, October 4, we breakfast in a dining-car, a oonnter- 
 part of that in which we bad supped the night previous, except that v 
 is more spacious. The breakfast, like the supper, was plentiful ant' 
 excellent, and included Oalifornia grapes cooled on ice. For meals on 
 these dining cars we paid 75 cents each, or three English shillings each. 
 We reach Eaneas City, Missouri, at 8-32 a.m., where we leave tht 
 Chicago and Alton Railroad, and find waiting for us a special train 
 of one engine and car, the car as beautiful and convenient as can wtl) 
 be imagined. It has three saloons; twelve berths; a smoking-car; 
 cooking and comiuissary room; wanhroom ; and other conveniences 
 This special train is furnished by the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa F6 
 Biilroad, by which road we are now to proceed. We pull out ahead 
 iif the regular train, and run to fopeka, Kansas, for dinner. The 
 gi-eater part of our way from Kansas City to Topeka we are alongside the 
 Kaw or Kannas river. The splendid equipment of the Atchison, Topeka. 
 and Santa Fe Railroad is certainly a marvel. Its eastern termini ie 
 1,400 miles from the Atlantic seaboard, but no road east of it has 
 better or finer looking rolling stock ; few have as good. Its roadbed 
 1'^ as perfect as the Peunsylvania Railroad, and is as neatly and care- 
 fully Btone ballasted, which is saying the best that can be said for it. 
 It is not stone ballasted throughout, but the greater portion is, and 
 this work is to go on until the whole line is brought into the best 
 condition. 
 
 Topeka is the capital of the State. At Kansas City we are 489 milen 
 from Chicago. At Topeka we are 555 miles from Chicago, and at an 
 elevation above sea level of 004(t. We run to Strong City, Eansas, 
 63C miles from Cbicigo, where we stop to see a cattle ranch. The 
 
ME. CHARLTON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 5B 
 
 ranch has a fine residenoe, finely looated on high gronnd, oommanding a 
 splendid view of a charming valley of immense extent. The fine hoase 
 and its site seem more like the selection of an artist than a plainsman. 
 We find this plainsman and his wife— in the words of one of as — " Good 
 wholesome people to know." They like the plains and plenty of space, 
 and do not like being crowded, which means they prefer a few miles of 
 their own, uuA neighbonrs not too dose to their range. They do not 
 envy life in dties. The house is bnilt of a stone whioh is foand 
 plentifully over large areas in Kansas, and is soft when first qnarried, 
 can be sawn to any form, and whiaa hardens by exposure to the 
 atmosphere. We oontinne on oar way to Florence, Kansas, 661 miles 
 from Chicago, altitude 1,277ft., where we stop over night, sleeping 
 in our oar. 
 
 October 5 th. — We leave the main line, and take the Marion and 
 M'Pherson branch to Marion centre, Kansas, where we leave the 
 train, and take carriages for a drive through the Mennonite settle- 
 ments to Hilsboro, Kansas, ten miles further on, whither our 
 train has preceded us, and where it awaits our arrival. We find 
 our way blocked in crossing a ravine. A movable engine used by 
 these settlers has stuck right in our track at the bottom of the 
 ravine, and there is no practical road past it. At once the crowd, 
 who are trying to extricate it, start for us. One essays to explain, but 
 although all yield him the place of speaker, his English is unequal to 
 the task he bus imposed upon U. A lad, who has held back smilingly 
 from the first, at what he hab foreknown would be this distinguished 
 breakdown, now comes to the front, and in English, as plain as our 
 own, makes dear to us that the direct route is hopelessly blocked for 
 an indefinite period, and, what is better, tells of another way out. 
 Part of this way lies right in the track of a rainstorm now approaching. 
 We delay not a moment, but drive right at it, but luckily not into it, 
 as we had feared. We come upon the edge of it, catch a few drops of 
 it juBt as our course changes. Before this, we had seen Mennonite farms, 
 farm buildings, and churches. The Mennonites havo thriven in this new 
 land, and have mostly, if not altogether, abandoned their first dwellings, 
 whioh were neither more nor less than adobe, mud-built, one-stcry 
 habitations. They have now modest, plain, and unpretentious modern 
 houses. By and by, they will improve on these.^ The young men, 
 who came here when they were under twenty years of age, are slowly 
 becoming Americanised. Even Mennonites are influenced by sur- 
 roundings and example. The Dunkers, another strict sect, are having 
 a difficulty about the use of pianos, whioh may yet lead to a 
 oburch schism. The young people are bent on some relaxation of the 
 iron tenets of their fathers. The world moves, and carries with it the 
 8lowe3t and most conservative. Precedent and custom and creed yield. 
 What close-fisted, good bargainers these Mennonites are, but also how 
 frugal, industrious, peace-loving, law-abiding, and faithful to contract I 
 They came from Bassia, driven thence by the blundering policy of 
 autooratio tyranny. What infatuation must have possessed the Bussian 
 Goveromejot, to practically drive away quiet, wealth-producing subjects 
 like ti:ecij, who never rebel and never cause trouble, who are not Nihilists, 
 nor dealers in dynamite, who have no passion for politics or reform, 
 but for tillage and peaceful pursuits, and can always be counted upon 
 for taxable parposefi), and are a perennial source of revenue. Kansas 
 and peace and fruitful lands, and a balmy clime, and the right to govern 
 theuiselves, and freedom from autocratic tyranny, must seem heaven 
 to these settlors, compared with the land of bondage which they have 
 
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 left behind them for ever. No wonder their yonag men begin to enjoy 
 themselves rationally. They mnst feel already on the other side of 
 Jordan, and that life onght to begin now ^ud here. Colonel Johnson, 
 land eommiflsioner, Atohison, Topeka, and Santa F6 Railroad, told ho« 
 one day two meanly-olad, impeconionS'looking Mennonites, called at 
 the Atohison, Topeka, and Santa F& BaUroad Land Offioe, in Topeka, 
 and hung aronnd maUng all kinds of inqnities nntil they had satisfied 
 themselves that they were in the right plaoe. Then they asked for an 
 interview in a private room, into which they were led. Their shabby 
 clothes, which hong on them, appeared to be not worth $5 ; bnt they 
 commenced to disrobe, and extracted from the reoeBses of their 
 mean clothing $80,000 to pay for land for themselves and for thoee 
 whom they represented. About 788 miles from Ohioago we see 
 Pawnee Bock, Kansas, a famous battle ground of Indians. Colonel 
 Johnson told me that in 1871, from the summit of this rook, he had 
 100,000 buffalo in sight. Buffalo are now things of the past at Pawnee 
 Book. Slaughtered in thousands for mere sport, or for their hides or 
 bones for commerce, they have disappeared from these old haunts of 
 theirs, and a new generation of settlers will deem it incredible that 
 such vast herds of buffalo once roamed these prairies. At Kinsley, 
 elevation, 2,207ft., we walk out, make acquaintance, and have a party 
 to inspect and admire our car, and tell us of their adventures 
 here on first coming, of their ways of life, their society, and successes. 
 We met here a quiet, courteous, refined young gentleman, who, some 
 time ago, foiled, at this place, a band of train robbers. They had left 
 their horses in the shelter of a bridge, and took possesBion of the 
 station, intending to rob the train on its arrival. Our hero was un- 
 armed, and there was but one course for him to adopt in order to 
 prevent the projected outrage, and he adopted it. In spite of tJireata, 
 and of the danger of being shot, he ran off into the town to give the 
 alarm. He was fired at by the thieves, and as shots were the agreed 
 signal to the gang to disperse, this led to their scampering off. The 
 citizens were aroused, the train was saved, and the robbers were 
 subsequently caught and punished. He is now the efficient and highly 
 popular agent of the railway company at Kinsley. Bobbers, if they 
 had been round, would have had a good chance to enter our cnr 
 during the night, as the doors were slenderly fastened and half glasa. 
 Kansa:: is a Prohibition State. Prohibition does not prohibit, and 
 Kansas tormed no exception to this rule. Artemns Ward declared that 
 the liquor was not as good in temperance hotels as in other hotels. I 
 have found that in this respect Prohibition States resemble temperance 
 hotels. Someone told of Mr. St. John, Governor of Kansas, speaking 
 at Topeka, and insisting that prohibition does prohibit, when 100 men 
 in front of him pulled out whisky bottles and drank right in sight of 
 him, practically refuting his speech, which, however, did not prevent 
 him from delivering it in other States. 
 
 We go from Kinsley to Coolidge. We pass Dodge City, altitude 
 2,499 feet, and see Fort Dodge in the distance. It is now no longer 
 used as a fort. Formerly, on the line of the old Santa F6 trail 
 from the Missouri river west, there stretched a line of forts about 100 
 miles apart, which were few enough only a few short years ago, but 
 some of which have ceased to be necessary now that the Indian and 
 the border raffi«n have been driven away by the railway, and that the 
 untamed cowboy has become amenable to rule, or falls before 
 the sure aim of some minion of the law. In the report of the 
 Commissioners of Emigration for Grant County, New Mexico, it is 
 
 i -i 
 
OVER THREE THOUSAND MILES IN FOURTEEN DAYS. — 55 
 
 trathfoUy add that " Bailways are oivilieiog things faster in thia 
 country than the soldiery." We look oat of tiie oar windows and oee 
 oloite alongside of as the old Santa F6 Irail, the highway aoross ^he 
 prairie over whioh for years wagons, caravans, troops, merchandise, 
 and the protectors of it have gone west. This old prairie road looked 
 bat little worn. The great railway on which we travelled aetaaUy 
 rnns for a thousand miles nlongeide of this old Santa F6 trail, and 
 enters side by side with it. We stop at Garden City, Kansas, 907 
 uiles from Obioago, to see the results of irrigation in Western Kansas. 
 The Arkansas Blver is tapped miles away, on ground higher than theea 
 farms, and the water bronght in what are called irrigation canals or 
 irrigating ditches. These canals or ditches are operated by a company, 
 who charge $1 per acre per annum for the use of the water. We drive 
 about two miles to the farm of Squire Worrell. We saw his Alfalfa 
 clover, which he cuts five times a season, and which yields him $200 
 per acre per annum ; his onions, of which he gathers 600 to 800 
 bushels per acre, and sells at an average of $2 per boshel ; his sweet 
 potatos, which he raises at the rate of 600 bushels to the acre ; his 
 beautiful grove of Cottonwood trees, from slips planted between two 
 and three years ago, and other marvels rivalling tropical profusion of 
 growth. Some of his cottonwobds, he told us, had made a growth of 
 14(t. in a year. 
 
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 5'i 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 OVER THREE THOUSAND MILES IN FOURTEEN DAYS. — MARVELS 
 OF NEW MEXICO. — MR. CHARLTON'S JOURNAL CONTINUED. 
 
 Only an observant traveller, and one of great experience of 
 the country, could collect the many incidents Mr. Charlton 
 relates, or make the comparisons which add to the value of 
 his narrative. He held a position of importance in connection 
 with the Grand Trunk Railway in Canada, before he accepted 
 the appointment he holds on tho Chicago and Alton, so that 
 he is familiar with Canada and America. His journal, of 
 which a portion concluded the last chapter, continues as 
 follows : — 
 
 On our way going and returning from the Memonites, we pass close 
 to a prairie dog village. One of the interesting little creatures, half, 
 tamed by familiarity with passing shows like ours, barks long and 
 furiously at ns, and fears not. We drove to still higher gronnd, and 
 visited a family of Scotch descent from tLa north]of Ireland. The old 
 
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 p. 
 
 I 
 
 lady told me that they ooald get more oat of ten sores here, and with 
 leBB work to the aere, than they ooald get oat of fifty acres in proliflo 
 Illhiois, from which State they had come to their present location. The 
 prodaots were simply marrelloas, and appeared to be prodaoed with 
 little labonr, as compared with ordinary farming under ordinary 
 conditions. We visited still another farm to inspect wonderful 
 products of large onions in unnsaal quantities, and brought away 
 surprising samples. Enormous and delicious water melons were 
 presented to us for use on onr trip, and one forty pound sample was 
 boxed for me to take home to a little man four years old. I was 
 told if I would not take it with me, it would be ''expressed" to 
 me, so I submitted with a good grace, and mnoh to the satiefaotion of the 
 young gentleman to whom I brought it. We are in siffht of the Arkansas 
 Biver and close to it. I had given a favourable opinion of this 
 land of profuse prodoctions, and intimated that I might invest in a 
 small farm. Colonel Johnson promised to show me a fine piece of 
 land. I fell asleep, but Colonel Johnson woke me up just as 
 we passed Sherlock. A mile west of that otation he showed me a 
 farm 161 lO-lOOth acres in an an^le bounded on the hypothenuse and 
 highest ground by the irrigating canal, and on the base by the railway. 
 It was as even as a floor, except the slight ascent t'^wards the canal. 
 I boufuht it and shall work it. I own three farms in Kansas already, 
 bat mnch farther east than this one, and no one of which I have ever 
 seen. I thought it wopld be a more novel sensation to own one which I 
 have seen. 
 
 At Coolidge we ceased to run special. During the night our oar wad 
 attached to the " Thunderbolt," for Denver. Next morning, October 7, 
 we came in sight of the Spanish Peaks and Pike's Peak and the Rooky 
 Mountain Range. We breakfast in Union Depot, Paeblo, Colorado, 
 1,124 miles from Chicago, elevation 4,713 feet. Paeblo claims a 
 popnlt!>tion of 20,000. The glimpse of it which we get is of a bnsy 
 depot, fine streets, smelting works, mauafaotories, Arkansas River, and 
 a few Mexican huts under the hlnSa in the outskirts. From Pneblo to 
 Denver we are in sight of the " Rookies," and chiefly in their foothills. 
 At Pneblo we left the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa FS Railroad, and 
 took the Denver and Rio G nde Railroad. We are now fairly in a 
 land of irrigation, and a grcut part of the way we are in sight of 
 irrigating ditches and the results of the same, which are of a prolific 
 character. We paes Coloraoo Springs, Colorado, a busy station, 45 
 miles from Pnehlo, altitude 6,048 feet. The other sights on thia trip, 
 Pike's Peak, Manitou, the Garden of the Gods, the Divide, the waters 
 of which run in one direction to the Platte River and in the other 
 to the Arkansas River, Castle Rock. These and other marvels I 
 chronicled for Mr. Holyoake, and ao leave without farther record here. 
 
 We drive round Denver, Colorado, and I inspect its public schools, 
 which, for convenience, light, ventilation, and Bpaoiousnecs are unsur- 
 passed in the States. I was in Denver in June, 1871, when its 
 population was said to be 7,000, and again in October, 1875, when it 
 was said to be 20,009. It now claims to have a population of 75,000, 
 which, from all appearances it has. It is now a beantif al city, with splendid 
 public buildings, hoteds, and private residences, and with streets lined 
 with fine shade trees. It has an opera house, the fame of which is 
 noised abroad, and it is worthy of its fame. Denver is 1,244 miles from 
 Chicago by the route by which we have come. 
 
 October 9th. — We go from Denver to Leadville, Colorado, 172 
 miles. At Denver we leave onr special oar, which goes beck to 
 
oar wad 
 jtober 7, 
 p Rocky 
 olorado, 
 aims a 
 a busy 
 jer, and 
 aeblo to 
 lothills. 
 lad, and 
 iy in a 
 sight of 
 prolifio 
 tion, 45 
 iia trip, 
 waters 
 ifl other 
 irvfls I 
 ■d here, 
 iohools, 
 unBor- 
 en its 
 hen it 
 175,000, 
 ^tlendid 
 » lined 
 Ihich is 
 le from 
 
 172 
 keck to 
 
 MR. CHARLTON'S JOURNAL CONTINUED. — 
 
 57 
 
 Paeblo, to await onr retnm to that point. OffioialB of the Union 
 Pacific, with ladies, going to Leadville, give na qnartera in their speoial 
 oar. We begin to asoend, and have charming views of the plains below. 
 Then oome the wonderful canons, where we look before and see no 
 ontlet, and look behind and cannot see how we managed to get in, and 
 look np preoipitons inaocessible heights of appalling altitnde, by which 
 it is clear that we cannot climb oat. Bharp carves enable as to see 
 the first part of the train going in an opposite direction to that oi the 
 car in which we sit. We climb np one side of a canon, make a sharp 
 tarn round, and climb still higher np the other side, sweep roand some 
 other corner, and look down tremendons depths to the level from which 
 we came, and confess that each an ascent by rail is incredible, save to 
 those who have made it. What daring engineers most thone have been 
 who had the temerity to project such wondroas railroad traokc jhroagh 
 saoh a wonderland in despite of natnral obstacles which, to nosoientiflc, 
 and even to some soientifio, eyes, mast have appeared atterly 
 impossible to overcome. At one steep ascent, the extra special 
 oar proves too mnoh for the engine, and the train is divided 
 fn two sections, and the engine has to make two trips over 
 this part of the track. Twenty miles from Denver we enter Platte 
 Canon, and, for fifty miles keep climbing or desoent^iDg amid 
 scenes of anrpasslDg beaaty and sablimity. The Ijfty granite 
 walls which shot as in vary in height from 500 to 1,500 feet. 
 A canon (pronoanced can-yon) is an immense rifi or fissnre in 
 H monntain range. At Denver the altitnde was 5,200 feet, at Kenosha, 
 76 miles from Denver, we are 10,139 feet above the level of the sea. 
 From this we descend, and are speedily in Sooth Park, an immense 
 amphitheatre shat in by a circle of the higher Rocky Mountains. 
 This beantifal valley is divided into hay farms and cattle and sheep 
 ranches. At Oomo, at an elevation of 9,750 feet, we dine. At 
 Bnena Vista, the altitade ia 7,850 feet. At this point we begin to 
 ascend again, and, when we reach Leadville we have attained an 
 altitade of 10,250 feet. We reach Leadville late, and enter it amid 
 bowling cabbies, who used Bible worjs oat of their order, and drove 
 fnrionsly, even as Jeha did, if we are to credit the special corres- 
 pondents of his day. 
 • Leadville has a popolation of 20,000 ; ia aarronnded by moantains — 
 
 That wear their caps of snow, 
 In the very presence of the regal san I 
 
 Since we came in eight of the rocky moantains we have never been 
 out of sight of high peaks. Li this deceptive altitade these snowy 
 summits seem close at hand, bat are many miles away. Rich mines 
 are being worked in all these hills. Mines, miners, and smelting 
 works abound. The streets are crowded with basy people. The 
 crowds are of the usual order of mining towns, and they seem a fair 
 representation of all kinds from all quarters of the world. The 
 received theory is that the vileness and brutality of the whole earth 
 gravitate towards these :rand mining districts of the great West. 
 The roughs and outcasts do not compose the whole population, 
 nor even a majority of it, nor do they fairly represent it. Under 
 the rough garb of the miner can be found collegians and university men 
 — homelife at ita beat. " The small, sweet courtesies of life," and all 
 tbat ia best in character and conduct are compatible with life tb mining 
 districts. Cities, and villages, actually exist there in a greater degree 
 than inexact observers have reported. The school vacation has just 
 
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 68 
 
 OVER THBBE THOUSAND UVLEB IK FOURTEEN DAYS. — 
 
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 ended, and tbe newspapers report tin, opening of the sohools for the 
 new Bession with a large and creditable r ^endanoe of pnpils. 
 
 Npzt oome "The Gems of the Sierras," twin lakes, at an altitude of 
 9,^00ft., famous for beanty of location, for fiuhing, for hnnting, for 
 attractive snrronndings, lying away off and above na. The considerate 
 and conrteons railway company have sent as Cap'-ain Tibbotts, their 
 excursion manager, to accompany no on our ti!p, and tell us all about 
 tbe scenery. He is enthnsiastio, courteous, untiring, and full of 
 interesting information. W4 pass through wonderful canons, and at 
 last enter the greatest wonder of onr day's trip, the Grand Canon of 
 i\e Arkansas. At Parkdale, an observation, or open car, is attached 
 to the train to enable us the better to see all the maivels of the Grand 
 Canon and its chief attraction, the Boyal Gorge, which is a rent in the 
 rook from top to bottom, throngh which, we werb told, it was posBible 
 tu climb and come out on the other eido of the range. At this amazing 
 point, the tivur for a space fills up tbe wboln breadth of the canon, which 
 is here very narrow, and onr train prsses on a uridge hung on braces of 
 iron fixed '.n the walls on each side ox the oacou. On thia onrionsly and 
 fdarfnlly, but firmly, conetraoted bridge over these swift, oonfined, 
 raging waters, our train is stovped right opposite thu " Boyal Gorge," 
 so that w) may gaze and wouder at it at leisure. The perpendicular 
 wallit cf the canon rise above ns more than 2,000 feet. At Canor Ci^y 
 wa see the State prison, au imposbg straotore of granite, quarried 
 from the adjacent bills. The city has a population of 1,200, and 
 is r.ttraotive looking. It has mineral springs, and, of course, is a 
 health resort. Almost every place out here is a health resort. At 
 Poeblo we tmp and take the " Thunderbolt." We run east to La 
 Jnnta. At La Junta, our car is out off, and a few hours after 
 midnight we are caught up by the train from Mexico and California. 
 We are asleep before we reach La Jnnta, and are oblivions alike of 
 onr being " cut off'," and of our being caught up. 
 
 October 11th -We are up at 5 a.m., to see the sun rise on the 
 Baton — pronou..cod Batoon— mountains. Slowly we labonr up these 
 mountains, with a grade at one point of 185ft. to the mile. An en- 
 gine in front pnlli;, and an engine behind pushes ns up. We enter 
 the Baton tnnnel, throngh which we pass from Colorado to New 
 Mexico, When we oome to the point in the tunnel where we 
 cross the line, we drink to New Mexico. Now we have oome to 
 the land of enormoup land grants, of Mexicans, Indians, adobe houses, 
 dalicious grapes, irrigation and antiquities In the early morning, 
 We discern a wayfarer, afar off, lying on the ground under moderate 
 wraps. He raises himself on his elbow to look at the passing train, 
 and, when he has gized his fill, he lies down to repose again. That 
 he does, and can with impunity maka the prairie his bed, indicate 
 at once the charming vagabond habits of the dweller on the plains, 
 and the nature of the blissful clime in which he has the good fortune 
 to vegetate. A drove of antelopes in sight scamper off in fear, and 
 are as pretty, as innocent, and graceful, as it seems possible for any 
 created thing to be. Prairie dog villages abound. We pass throngh a 
 portion of the famous Maxwell Ijand Grant, comprising 1,400,000 acres. 
 This was granted in 1841, by the Government of Old Mexico, to Beau- 
 bien and Miranda, citizens of that Bspnblio. There is nothing 
 monotunnns about the face of New Mexico. It is valleys, foot 
 hills, blnffn, canons, mesa, or high table lands, mountain parks 
 and mountains, valleys cosily shut in or high table lands protected by 
 rooky mountains higher still. The mean elevation of the table lands 
 
and Talleya ia 4,000ft., tnd of the highest monntain r^nffes 13.000ft 
 The popalatlon ia atated at 150,000, made np of 2U,000 Paeblo, or 
 Tillage Indiana on reBerrationa, 100,000 native wMtea, or Mezioana, 
 and 80,000 Amnrioana and ali nations. Bains npon rains attest the 
 presence onoe of a large popniation skilled in the arts and soienoea, 
 preonraora of the Indian who knows not of them, and who oan tell no 
 tale of theae rains which ante-date hia advent. Boins covered with 
 deposits, which dato them back thousands of years, raina in valleja, 
 on table lands, npon monntains, and far np the face of the high rocky 
 cliffs, these latter the abodes ages ago of the Oliff dwellers. Tho history of 
 this conntry no far an we know or goesa, begina with the predeoeasors cf 
 the Oliff dwellera. Then we have theae Oliff dwellera, Int^iana, Spanish 
 onnqnest, Mexican occapation, and annexation to the United States. 
 New Mexico londly proclaims from its adobe housetops that it oontaius 
 more silver than Colorado and Nevada, and more gold than Oalifornia, 
 and qnotes Alexander Von Homboldt as saving that " the wealth of 
 the world will bo fonnd in Arizonu and New Mexico." Bat more than 
 rttflnel gold is that which commands gold. In the report of the 
 Barean of Emigration of Donna Anna Oonnty, it is statr "* ^hat the 
 emigrant " oan bav ten acres of land for $100, plant it in Tinea and 
 frait trees, and in fonr years hia labonr will make it produce him from 
 $500 to $1,000 to the acre." Surely this is better than gold or silver 
 mines. Indians ride free on trains in New Mexico. Tho rail- 
 road has invaded some Indian reservation, and the right of waj' ia not 
 yet settled, and nnt :1 that is done Indians will ride free. At Lbb Vegai, 
 altitude 6,452ft, Indians assail ns on the platform with delicion^ 
 grapes for sale. Dnst. flies wildly in Las Vegas to-day. We thn<i 
 experience what is called a New Mexico " sand flip." Las Vegas is 
 mainly a modera city cf about 6,000 inhabitants. It has gas, water- 
 works, a street railway, and two daily papers. The largest house 
 in it is one built by a New Mexican, who on a visit east had taken 
 note of the large business houses, and on his return determined to 
 oreate a counterpart of them. The old town with its adobe honaes, 
 is well in sight as we pass through it. We arrive at the Hot Springs 
 and take quarters at the Montezama Hotel, a new, large, tastefnUy 
 adorned, and ^ell kept hotel, owned by the railway company. In 
 the entrance hall, facing each other, hang engravings of Frith'a 
 "Derby Day" and his "Bailway Station." In the reading-room 
 hang engravings of Miss Thompson's battle scenes, and the engrav- 
 ings on all the walls are of corresponding quality. We have terraces, 
 piazzas, bowling alleys, billiard-rooms, reading-rooms. Oraamental 
 grounds occupy the whole space in front. Fountaios, large and small, 
 birds and animals, amongst whom is our old acquaintance the 
 American eagle, in all his glory and strength, the silver fox, and deer. 
 Bound the large fountain are chained three small bears, who stand 
 npon their hind legs and eat from our hands sugar, biscuits and nuts, 
 and who, when they get older, will take pleasure in eating tis if a 
 fdvourable opportunity occurs. We are over 2,000 miles away from 
 the Atlantic seaboard, and at an elevation of 6,400 feet, but we 
 have health-giving hot springs, postal facilities, telegraph and 
 express offices, telephone, livery stables, and cricket grounds. The 
 Montezuma is of the Qaeen Anne style, three storeys high, gable 
 roof; and has about 250 rooms. There is a ladies' billiard parlour in 
 the cupola. It stands on the bank of the Bio Qallinas (pronounced 
 gyenae), just inside the canon, out of which that stream is about to 
 escape to the open country. 
 
 «9 
 
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 5^1 
 
♦"II 
 
 
 I II 
 
 I 
 
 00 MB. CHARLTON'S JOURNAL CONULUD£D.— 8TRANOB MEXICAN 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 MR. CnAHLTON'RJOUnXAL CONCLUDED —STRANGE MEXICAN CUSTOMS. 
 — ijCliNES IN AN INDIAN VILLAGE, AND IN HANTA FJC. 
 
 We leave the hot BprinuB, Hud pattg Btarvutiun Moantaiu, with ita 
 battlemented-lookioR orent, like an immense fortreea bnilded by 
 giauti*. Tbia monutuin t.akea itH name from a horrible inoidtint ia ita 
 History. A baud nf Mexioan(< fltd before vengefnl Indiann, and BOQKht 
 Hhclter on theau hi((h puaha, and were there b>4eagared till starved to 
 death. For miUa the scene of this tragedy ia in our view. At many 
 Htationa little Mexioana offer pinon (prononnoed pinyon) nets for sale. 
 These nnta grow on small trees called piuon trees, a species of pine. 
 We catoh glimpses of the Kio Pfcos, the largest triontary of the 
 Rio Grande. 1,333 miles from Chicago, and 25 miles from Banta F6, 
 we pshH the rnioH of Peoos ohnrob, an adobe bnildiog abont 800 
 years old. The Peooa were village ladians, who came ont of their 
 conflicts with the Spaniards with diminished numberH, afterwards 
 Boffaied from intertribal wars, and from the Apaches. The Oomaoohes, 
 early in the eij^hteentb oentnry, drove ont the Apaobes and " became 
 that fearfal sooarge of all the snrronnding settlements which 
 they have ooutiuned to be for 150 years. On one occasion the 
 Comanches slanghtered all the yoang men of the Pecos bat one ; a 
 blow from which the tiibe never recovered. Tbns when the Indiana 
 uf the Bio Grande rose against the Mexiuans in 1837, tbe Pecos did 
 not take any part, for there were only eighteen adnlts left, hnddled 
 together in the northern wing of the hnge building, watching the 
 sacred embers iu the face of slow inevitable dehtruotion."* 
 
 In 1840, the remnant of the tribe, now reduced to five, united with 
 the Pueblo of Jemez, a distant Indian tribe speaking the same language 
 as the Pecos, and who, hearing of tbe decline and full of their brethren, 
 had in 1838, offered them " a new home within the walla of their own 
 Pueblos.*' The Paeblo of Pecos, is the traditional birthplace of 
 Montezuma, the " Culture God " of these tribes. It was here, after 
 he became a man, that he buili. tbe sacred fire, and bade his followers 
 keep it burning until bis return ; and here it was kept burning — and 
 here daily tbe faithful climbed to their a lobe housetops, and wistfully 
 and hopefully gazed east to welcome the fair god who never returned. 
 When the remnant of the trihe transferred itself in 1840 to the 
 Pueblo of Jemez tradition bath it that the sacred fire was included in 
 their baggage, and in some solemn mountain solitude restored to 
 Montezuma. The Pecos are now practically cm extinct Indian tribe, 
 and tbe mudbnilt relic of them, the Pecos c'lurch, where a strange 
 mixture of Cutholioism and Montezuma cult obtained, is fast following 
 them into decay. At Glorieta, scene of conflicts during the rebellion, 
 we are at an elevatioi of 7.537ft. We pass through Apaches Canon, and 
 Lamy. Laray is named after Archbiahop Lamy, the highest dignitary 
 
 * " Report on the Ruins of the Pueblo of Pecos." By A. F. Bandelier. Triibner 
 and Co. 1881. 
 
CUSTOMS. — S0KNK8 IN AN IJ^DIAN VILLAOK, AND IN SANTA KE. 01 
 
 ;aage 
 
 thren, 
 
 own 
 
 19 of 
 
 after 
 
 kibner 
 
 of the Romish faith ia the territory. Before we reach Banta F6, our 
 train oomea to a stop at a point where there i« neither depot, nor water 
 tanic, nor heaaes. Thia ia explained by a roboat negro landing himself 
 •nd hii goo and hiR spoils of the chaise on ihe rear platform of onr 
 car. He had been foraKing for na, and had been dropt off by the 
 ontgoing trnin in the morning, with the understanding that onr train 
 was to pick him np wberbvur ho might appear. At Banta F6, we 
 get qnarUra at the Palace Hotel, one of the flneBt etrnctares in the 
 city. We stroll tbrongh the main streets, look into some of the stores, 
 marvel over tho marvellnns filagree work, and the corioos and ngly 
 Aztec pottery for which thf* place is famons. 
 
 We drove ten miles north to Paeblo Ttsnqtie, an Indian village 
 of adobe bnlldiugs. Abont fonr miles oat we rt«ach Snmmlt, the 
 highest point on onr drive, over 8,000 feet elevation, and obtain 
 a floe view of the valleys aud high monntains, many of them snow- 
 japped, which encircle ns. Going was cool and tolerably free from 
 dast, bat coming back it was hot with a "sand flip." On onr out- 
 ward trip, we were constantly pansing barrns- email but sti-ong and 
 sure-footed donkeys, ladiu with firewood. Utinally there were four or 
 five in charge of one man. At one point a doukey had lain down to 
 rest with its burden on its back, waititig for tbu others to come up. The 
 question euKgested itself, how the donkey could rise with its load. We 
 saw the problem solved by the driver coming alone aud asHisting it np. 
 Each dotikey-load sells for about 80a. in Sauta F6. Frost or snow 
 at once doubles the price. On oar return we pass these donkeys, 
 minus their loads, returning for other loads. ludian boys, herding 
 cattle aud ponies, ask Ud for rnatohes, whioh we give, and which are 
 accepted without aokuowledgment of any kind. We see Indian adobe 
 houces on tminencea, from wUioh Indiana watch their crops. We pass a 
 Mexican family going on a vidt. Two or three bnr'os loaded with 
 food, household utensils, and bedding, are driven by an old man. On 
 another, more ammunition is loaded, and a very stout old Mexican 
 woman sits astride, still more household stuff aud an old man make 
 np the load of another. The old lady is sociable, and attempts 
 to converse with us, whinh is a failure, as she speaks in an an- 
 known tongue. She smiles in a friendly way, however. On our 
 return we pass this party again. They have camped for dinner 
 in the shade of a circle of trees. 
 
 We see all along our route, and sometimes drive across, and sometimes 
 drive in, dry beds and watercourses at present 3ot containing a drop of 
 wader, but down which a great rain in the mountains or a cloud barst 
 sends, in a few miuutes, a raging flood, a solid wall of water, some- 
 times estimated at as high as 6ft., filling the whole watercoarse from 
 side to Bide, and carrying destruction to everything in its path. 
 Tragic results follow attempts to cross ahead of this fast-coming, 
 formidable, almost nnannoanced flood. Golonel Johnson enlivens onr 
 party by stories. About six or seven miiea out we pass the Mexican 
 village Tesuque. (Pronounced Sookee.) Three or four miles more and we 
 enter the Indian Paeblo Tesuque. The village forms a square, with 
 walls two or more feet thick ; the above dwellings placed close together 
 form the solid outside wall of the village. Closely huddled to a chimney 
 on the top story sits a solitary Indian woman, bat whether she is taking 
 the air, or keeping an outlook over flelds of grain, or for the coming 
 Montezuma, who is some day expected to come with the snn, I know 
 not. For hours these Indians will e.t in this way. What repose and 
 what contrast to our rush and worry ! We see only the exterior of 
 
 I 
 
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 !' « 
 
 62 MR. CHARIiTON'S JOURNAL CONCLUDED. — STRANGE MEXICAN 
 
 their oharofa, aa the onstodian is absent. The bell is anspended on 
 Btioka of wood on an adobe wall. A " oaretta," a wagon made all 
 of wood, attracted oar attention. The Indian children we paaeed 
 on onr way, those we see here, and all these Indiana wear their 
 hair banged, and this has been their fashion for centuries, from 
 a time to which the memory of man and their history goeth not 
 back. So long have they thus preceded in this, the modem girl of the 
 period. 
 
 These Indiana are a social oommnnity, and live in common, and 
 own their lands in common. The Oaciqne ia chief in Church and 
 State, priest of Montezama, supreme in spiritnal and temporal aff, 'ra. 
 How Gaoiqaes were originally appointed is not )>iiown. The first duty 
 of a Caoiqne on taking office is to appoint his saocessor. Aided by three 
 ex-governors, whom he selects, he appoints the governor and all the 
 offioers. Ihe governor ia appointed annually. Hia behests are law, 
 and every morning he annonnoea each one's duties for the day. No 
 remuneration attaches to this office, which ia purely honorary. A 
 connoil of wise men, consisting of ex-governora compose the oabinei or 
 constitutional advisers of the governor. The oral morning edicts of 
 the governor take ns back to the dawn of history in other lands. 
 For three centuries certainly, and how much longer ia not known, 
 these oommnnal villagea have existed under thia method of govern- 
 ment, and their appearance and their daily routine to-day verifies the 
 report three centuries aao of Antonio De Espejo, published in "Haklny t'a 
 Voyages." We found the governor and his lady squatted on the ground 
 in front of the gubernatorial mansion, husking corn, which, unlike 
 onr sweet Indian corn, is not ffhite, but is of a beautiful dark purple 
 colour, and is called sqnaw com. The adobe dwelling has two atoiies, 
 the upper one set back, makiog an elevated boulevard all roimd inside 
 the village. The governor's mansion had the side towards the open 
 square, open to the weather, except for a few upright posts and open 
 fence about a third of the height. This forms bis reception-room. 
 Aocesa to it was by a ladder of the most simple and primitive manu- 
 facture, and much damaged by age and use. An old resident of 
 
 Santa F6, who accompanied ua, spoke to the governor; hia lady 
 disappeared by the ladder, and when we ascended, received na in 
 improved array. We ascend the ladder to the reception-room, 
 where the governor awaits us, stolid, silent, uptight, and not devoid 
 of some qniet dignity. No formal introduction takes place. Bobea, 
 and dresses, and blankets hang on a line, extending over the whole length 
 of one end of the room. In the wardrobe, the lady's finery attracts 
 attention, and ia inspected, not withont brineing from her the hearty 
 genuine Indian laugh, wholesome to hear. Two gold-headed canes, or 
 staves of office, hang against the wall. When the governor orders an 
 arrest he gives his staff to his messenger, who presents it to the view 
 of the culprit, who recognises the delegated authority and t^ubmits. 
 The staff of the Indian governor is potent, aa was the staff of Jndah, 
 or the signet ring of Abasuerua. On the walls of thia and of an inner 
 room hang Catholic pictures and trinkets, very cheap and very poor. 
 We enter the inner room through a rude, doorless aperture in the 
 wail, '^e inspect pottery and onriouR fireplace. The floor is smooth, 
 and clean, and hard. A coffee grinder, of stonea, of primitive con- 
 atruction, came under review, as did also a mill of the same conetraotion 
 for grinding corn. On an intimation from the governor, his lady, with 
 a laugh, got down on her knees and ground out some flour. It was not 
 en easy task. It was novel to us, but is older than that day in Judea, 
 
CUSTOMS. — SCENES IN AN INDIAN VILLAOE, AND IN SANTA FE. 63 
 
 bn 
 ot 
 
 when it was predioted that " Two women ehall be grinding at the mill, 
 the one shall be taken and the other left." Very old oastoms and old 
 things re-appear in New Mexico. Wateris drawnfrom wells by a rope 
 and bucket, by hand and without windlass, as Jaoob drew it for the 
 flooks Baohel herded. In Santa F6, as in this Indian village, and all 
 over New Mexico, the adobe honses are bnilt of btiok made of mud and 
 straw, and snn dried, as in the days of Pharaoh. The roofs of the 
 adode houses are flat, as that of David, upon which he walked and 
 Binned in his heart at eventide. In Santa F6, as iu this Indian village, 
 people walk and sit upon the roofs of their honses. In one beautif nl 
 adode residence which we vieit in Santa F6, friends walk and chat on 
 the roof, eating delicious peaches and other fruits plucked from branches 
 of trees which extend above the roof. In our Indian governor's inner 
 room we see an Indian shield, drum, and rattle used in dances. The 
 rattle is of turtle shell. A small Ohina doll hanss on the wall 
 amongst sacred trinkets. I presented silver to the governor's lady 
 bofore leaving bis mansion, which she accepted without any acknowledg- 
 ment. Money presented by others of our party to the governor was 
 accepted with never a word, and he handed it to his lady. The governor 
 accompanies us on our rounds until we leave the village. We ascend, 
 by p<imitive ladders, to an elevated boulevard, formed, as already 
 described. We ascend once again, by eadly-damagf^d ladders, to roof 
 of second story, and view the village and its surronndiDgs. I give 
 money to the children, which ia accepted without repponse. At 
 parting we shake hands with the governor, and during the ceremony 
 Blip sUver into his hand. They appeared to be as much amused 
 at ns as we were at thctm. I was told that the money we gave 
 them would be expended in whieky of the fiercest brand. They 
 are more than suspected of trading contraband of war with hostile 
 Indians. They have a trail to the locations of hostiles. 
 
 The roofs of the dwellings were low. Theee Indians are an under- 
 sized race. The flower of the village were absent at work. Only old 
 men and the women and very young children were about. To say that 
 the Indian women have no pretensions to beauty scarcely does justice 
 to their appearance. There are exceptions of homeliness, and a narrow 
 escape from ugliness. On returnioe to Santa F6 we ascend to the 
 top of the hotel, and view Santa FS and its surroundings and all 
 the glory thereof. Fort Marcy, the military quarters, are in front, 
 adobe buildings for the troops and modern residences for the 
 officers. The old fort, of the eame name, is on a high hill in the 
 north-east part of the city. Oonspiouons is the old palace, an adobe 
 building, one story high, 350ft. long, 25ft. to 75It. wide, with piazza, 
 15ft. wide, running the whole length ot the front. It is over 300 years 
 old. In it once reigned in almost regal state, Spanish captains general. 
 It is now the official residence of the governor of the territory. Its 
 Spanish archives dating back to 1543, are numerous, interesting, and 
 valuable. Many of these are missing, however. 
 
 Santa F6, the city of the holy faith, is 1,358 miles from Ohioago, 
 population over 7,000, and altitude, 7,013ft. It is the oldest city on 
 the continent, and the largest in the territory of New Mexico, of which 
 it is the capital and the military headquarters, as well as the chief 
 educational, eocIeBiastioal, and commercial centre. It was the ter- 
 minus of the old Santa F6 trail, and continues to be the chief distri- 
 buting point for commerce. It is shut in cosily by high mountains with 
 snow-clad summits. It has a genial climate ; its nights are cool ; 
 it is a health resort, more CBpeoially in winter; its population is a 
 
 » ' 
 
 \ii 
 
 !| 
 
 i 
 
 *.^* 
 
^iilli 
 
 i 
 
 
 1*1^ 
 
 Iljl T 
 
 I 
 
 64 
 
 ME. Charlton's journal concluded. 
 
 mixtare of Spaniards, Mexioane, Indiane, negroes, Americans, and 
 all natious. It baa ^he oldest oharoh and the oldest honse on 
 the continent, and an old cemetery which dates from 1680. Its 
 houses are mostly adobe, its streets are narrow, and blank walls 
 are in a majority. It has gas, daily papers in varions languages, 
 and pore moautaiu water. The Plaza has an ornamental square 
 two-and-a-half acres in extent, with trees and flowers, and the 
 inevitable soldier's monument, which it is always gratifying to meet as 
 an evidence that the country does not forget the citizens who died to 
 save it. This one stands in the centre of the Plaza, and is dedicated 
 "To the Heroes who Fell," "Fighting Rebels," and "Savage 
 Indians." We visited the cathedral — mnd-bnilt, cross-shaped — in which 
 are many old relics. The walls of the new cathedral now overtop it 
 and snrronnd it, and the building of this new cathedral was going 
 forward during our vieit. A few Mexican devotees were strewed about 
 the low benches and covertly glanced us over during their devotions. 
 We also visited the Gbristiau Brothers' OoUege, and next door to it, San 
 Miguel Church, the oldest church in America, built according to one 
 account 1582-1596, and according to another about 1640. It was 
 destroyed in the Indian insurrection in 1680, and was rebuilt in 
 1710. It is mud-built, about 60ft. high, and is lOOtt. by 60ft. " The 
 inside has high white-washed walls, running to a sharp peak, a few 
 little low benches, a dome-shaped altar, containing the usual Oatholic 
 ornaments, and on each side a painting, the age of which there is no 
 oalculatiog." It is threatened with restoration, which possibly means 
 toe destrnotion or defacement of all that makes it a relio of the past. 
 Our next visi*: was to a Mexican adobe reeidence, a genuine adobe 
 building. It was one story high. By the door from the street we 
 enter a large hall or passage, which leads into the open flaeged 
 square in the centre. AH round us are bodrooma, parlours. There 
 is a door into the large garden, into which wu enter, and find 
 luscious fruits of sli kinds, and rich results of irrigation. The 
 foliage is tropical. The trees are planted in rows, which make thickly- 
 shaded, cloistered, walks. The grapes, especially, are delicious, far 
 more so than the same varieties in the eastern States. The garden 
 is enclosed with adobe walla, and an inner hedge of osage orange. Of 
 oouree, we had to go and see the oldest honse, which the Spaniards who 
 penetrated here in 1542 found in existence at that time. It is the 
 ordinary two-story adobe. We met high offioials, civil and military, 
 and leading citizens, and members of the Board of Trade, and thus 
 obtained much information. Ex-governor, W. G Bitch, now secretary 
 of the territory, possesses a mine of knowledge respecting its history, 
 resources, and present position, and was as communicative as he was 
 well-informed. Governor Sheldon told of his twenty militia companies, 
 well-armed, drilled, and officered, and judiciously located, with which 
 he claims to have put down Indians and depperadoes. Since October, 
 1881, he says that hostile Indians have made no demonstration, and 
 desperadoes, most of them adventurers from other localities, have been 
 extirpated or dispersed. In our opinion, however, the chief element 
 in the betterment of New Mexico has been the Atchison, Topeka, and 
 Santa F6 B«ilroad. It brought, and is still bringing in its train, 
 population of the best kind, and affords facilities for civil government, 
 and ma'ues it possible, and places at its disposal, forces and facilities 
 which secure freedom from organised crime. 
 
 On our return trip, we reach Topeka, and drive round its busy 
 substantial looking streets. We inspect the State Oapitol and its 
 
PRAIRIE SCENES. — PLAINSMEN OP KANSAS. — 
 
 65 
 
 treasorea, inoladiiig a large and splendid oolleotion of birds, 
 presented by an enthaeiastio ornithologist. On a corner of the 
 capitoI groonds stands a large, strong, handsome bnUding — a free 
 library and reading-room— a gift to Topeka, presented by the two 
 great railways that pass throngh it. It was a merciful and monificent 
 donation to make on the part of corporations popnlarly sopposed to 
 have no sonla. From Topeka to Lawrence, where we stop next, is 16 
 miles. We drive to the large and imposing State University, and 
 listen to an address by Mr. Holyoake, in its fine leotnre hall, and have 
 for fellow-listeners other visitors, the faculty, and 500 students. From 
 thence, with a brief stop in Eansas City, we proceeded direct to 
 Chicago, October 17, having travelled 3,313 miles ia 14 days. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 PRAIRIE SCENES. — PLAINSMEN OF KANSAS — PRAIRIE 
 CREATURES. 
 
 Only those who have travelled, or who intend to travel, or 
 who would like to foresee what will happen to them should 
 they travel in America, will value the vigorous detail, the 
 selection of incidents, and the felicity of description with 
 which the sketch is written which Mr. Charlton compiled, as 
 we rode, for final use in these pages. In the course of fourteen 
 days we went into different climates and among people of 
 different races, as much as though we had gone through 
 several nations in Europe. 
 
 When we were at Strong City I was much interested in 
 the conversation of the famous plainsman (Mr. S. F. Jones), 
 who had more cattle than any patriarch. I had never 
 seen a genuine plainsman. This one was handsome, small- 
 eyed, rohust, with the health of a. buffalo. His modest, 
 resolute, lucid conversation did seem to me "wholesome." The 
 breeze of the prairie was in his speech. His wife told me 
 that she much preferred being on the plains. She said they 
 had a ranche for twenty years on the mountains of Colorado, 
 which gave them a run of fifteen miles around. Yet she 
 felt as though she had not elbow-room there ; but on these 
 unlimited prairies it was different. To a person living in London, 
 who thinks a room twelve feet square a rare possession, it 
 
 
*yk 
 
 ■li- 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 seemed like conversing with people on a new planet, to meec 
 a lady with this queenly sense of space and movement. 
 DeFoe had no idea of this kind of people. If this plainsman 
 had been in Robinson Crusoe's place, he would have thought 
 a desert island a poor affair, and felt himself crowded 
 upon it. The plainsman in question was entirely without 
 pretension, or vanity, or swagger, often seen in self-made men. 
 He knew precisely what a ranche should have — fertility of 
 grass and accessibility of water. He can tell good ranche land 
 at a glance, and has a quick eye for the points of cattle. He 
 knows what a ranche must produce to feed a thousand cattle 
 in winter. This is precisely the kind of man whom the 
 Government should ask to contribute a chapter to their 
 Guide Book. Ranch buyers would be well directed by the 
 guidance which he could give. He sold his Colorado ranch 
 and stock to the Edinburgh Cattle Company for six hundred 
 thousand dollars. Around his new Kansas ranche he has 
 already thirty miles of good stone fence. He, therefore, is one 
 of the men who know all about the subject. 
 
 It was at Garden City where we bought eight melons at 
 10c. each. To a lady who had wandered out in the moon- 
 light, thinly clad^ .'^nd had acquired transient malaria, I carried 
 one melon, saying that a homoeopathic physician had pre- 
 scribed that slight globule to be taken. It was not easy to 
 carry it, as it weighed 441bs. It cost only 5d. and was as 
 delicious as a peach. The green plains of Kansas are the 
 very place for a vegetarian colony. Here a man might enter- 
 tain seven friends a whole day, giving each 71bs. of* dainty 
 food, at the cost of 5d. for the whole company. And as the 
 melons — like the white onions we saw, seemed visibly to 
 grow as we stood by their beds, vegetarians might live in 
 luxury on a quarter-of-an-hour's work a day. 
 
 One day, when we had driven some miles across the prairie, 
 we encountered an animated housewife, who said she was born 
 with the love of flowers ; and it looked like it, for she had beds 
 of them blooming all around her prairie dwelling. Her hus- 
 band did not share her taste ; but there is no need out there 
 for an agitation in Parliament to pass a Bill for conceding 
 civil rights to married women. There is plenty of space on 
 the prairie for a woman to have her own way. What struck 
 me most in her conversation was her remark that their land 
 lot at first was only one-fomrth of a square mile. They had 
 since taken a second lot, and she said she thought they should 
 take the other two, and have the whole 640 acres to thorn- 
 
PEAIRIE SCENES. — PLAINSMEi^ OF KANSAS. 
 
 67 
 
 selves, as, otherwise, someone would come and take them, and 
 she did not want to have neighbours too near to her. To have 
 no neighbour withiii a mile of home would seem to English 
 people rather solitary, but this lady felt most at home with 
 neighbours a good distance from her. 
 
 The prairie dog, like the buffalo, is destined to extinction, 
 as is the bright-eyed wonderfully-nimble little gopher. My 
 first acquainta,nce wioh a prairie dog was made in one of the 
 parks of Chicago. The zoological gardens there are all free 
 to the public. Wandering in one day I came upon an excava- 
 tion in the sand, in which a number of prairie dogs and a 
 gopher were at play. The prairie dog is about the size of a 
 fat young rabbit. I would one of the merry I: jle fellows were 
 before me to describe. He appeared to me something between 
 a little pig and a cat, with the fleecy skin of a lamb. Certainly, 
 the group were as nimble and playful as kittens. Their 
 manifest delight was to scratch a considerable hole in the 
 soft sand, push the foremost of the soratchers into it, when 
 the others buried him under the sand, scampering off, leaving 
 him to get out as best he could. I saw no creatures, human or 
 otherwise, in America, so droll and merry -hearted as the 
 prairie dogs were. 
 
 In Holland the dog is very serious. He has to draw small 
 carts and barrows along the street, and guard the goods in 
 them, while his master is gcssipping with women-folk at the 
 door. There is no canine trades union to see to shorter hours 
 of labour for poor Fompey in the shafts. In England the 
 dog, though not in harness, is far from being light-hearted, 
 and has no sense of pleasure save the running after cats, or 
 ia ba. ^ing at the wron^^ person. He has fine qualities, but 
 he is grave. The prairie dog is a gentleman by nature. He 
 is jocund, unembarrassed ; he does not speculate. He has 
 not a care upon his mind. He knows nothing of a " corner " 
 except as a hiding place. His little soul is all sunshine. 
 
 The gopher is much smaller and is quite a business- 
 like animal. He is half rat and half squirrel — slender, 
 like the stoat, has a sharp-pointed month, which coula 
 deal with a dinner in a keyhole, and brilliant eyes. His 
 tail is long, like a rat's. His pastime is to race round 
 the enclosure with such incredible celerity that no eye less 
 qaick than his could follow him ; yet, in an instant, he will 
 bring himself up on any elevation, stand perfectly upright on 
 his hind legs, resting his body on his tail ; just as a Manx- 
 man might do, who has three logs, according to the heraldic 
 
 
 
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 device of the island. The gopher, moving his body round as 
 though his tail were a pivot, glances everywhere, surveying 
 the whole land around hvm, I:l:f> an Indian on the lookout, 
 then darts round the entire enclosux3 with electrical velocity. 
 I never beheld such a bright, observant, nimble creature. On 
 the prairies, where irrigation is introduced, boih the dog 
 and gopher are drowned in their happy holes. The remainder 
 of the race ought to be pensioned off, and kept in zoological 
 gardens. 
 
 Driving over the prairie presents a strange outlook to an 
 Englishman. The prairie is a sea of verdure. It is bs though 
 you were in the midst of an Atlantic of buffalo grass. No 
 tree, no water, only one vast circular horizon on the distant 
 edge of which you may see the lightning play, when thunder 
 is about. You drive on 40 or 50 miles, and you may ride on 
 for hundreds of miles, and the scene never changes. The 
 horizon behind follows you as the new one opens before you. 
 That is the prairie, where the only live things are the dog 
 and gopher, now the baffalo and the Indian are gone. 
 
 At Leadville, at that vast altitude, yon look on mountains 
 yet loftier, with their silver crowns of ice glistening in the sun. 
 Down the dark sides of the greatest are white rifcs exactly in 
 the form of the Cross, and much is made by all true believers 
 of that wondrous symbol, elevated as though God had set it 
 high in the air, in the sight of all men. Nowhere in the whole 
 world is the sacred symbol to be seen at such elevation, the 
 central object of such scenic glory as from the mount of Lead- 
 ville. You see sketches of the wonderful mount in all the 
 illustrated books of those parts and hear accounts of it. It 
 is quite as strange and brilliant a sight as it is represented 
 to be ; and the Catholics who look upon it regard it as the 
 mighty seal of nature set upon their faith. 
 
 When we were nearing Las Vegas, we found at one of the 
 New Mexican cities, consternation prevailing at the appear- 
 ance of the comet. It was the same comet which was seen 
 in England, but in New Mexico it displayed itself better, 
 probably out of respect to the republican expectation of that 
 country, where people pride themselves upon having the 
 biggest thing out on view there. I saw it first one morning, 
 just before sunrise, as we were dashing into the great Raton 
 valley. I had seen no such comet in my time. It lay 
 stretched along the blue vault near the horizon, like a vast 
 elongated, luminous serpent of the heavens. There are ranch- 
 men, mountaineers, and cowboys about those parts, not more 
 
PRAIBIE CREATURES. 
 
 69 
 
 advanced in soienoe than we are in England — where Mr. 
 Proctor had agitated many with the prediction that this comet 
 was bent on mischief, and wonld fall into the snn, when that 
 luminary would be disagreeable and roast us as the Inquisitors 
 did the heretics. TV a first question put to me by the inter- 
 viewers, who met me at the hotel, where we spent some time, 
 was, " What did I think of the comet, and whether or not in 
 my opinion it would fall into the sun, and what would the 
 sun do if it did ? " I answered that as far as I could judge it 
 appeared to me a well-behaved comet. We had reason to 
 think that it had been loafing about the dkies for 2,000 years, 
 and must by this time know its way about pretty well. 
 The regular and methodical way in which comets de- 
 parted on a journey — in some cases of three or four hundred 
 years — and reappeared to the predicted minute, showed that 
 they kept better time than railways, and knew their business 
 too well to get in the way of the sun, and if any young, reck- 
 less comet did run its head into the sun, that experienced 
 luminary would do as America did by a new colony of 
 settlers — absorb it into itself and say nothing about it. Mr. 
 Proctor had alarmed us unnecessarily." This opiniot< was 
 given in the papers of the district, and perturbation ceased 
 in lower Mexico. Nobody could be more astonished than I 
 was. I was represented as an authority on comets, and my 
 opinion was considered conclusive upon their behaviour and 
 fate. 
 
 The effect of the prairie on city classes is notable. Though 
 the city family be an emigrant one, no sooner do they get 
 upon the prairie than the city seems a familiar home compared 
 to the strangeness of the green desert. After five years or so 
 the family generally goes back to the city, leaving a son or 
 perhaps two behind. The lad is less wedded to the city, 
 adventure is alive within him, and the fiirst years of prairie 
 life have been mitigated by the family society, and he is 
 for enterprise on his own account. In many instances the 
 Q0ect of the prairie on the city classes is entirely good, The 
 feeble become robust, the timid brave, the vacillating acquire 
 decision. The settler from the city tries to be man enough 
 for the situation, and succeeds, and he is a stronger and 
 prouder man than he was — besides being independent. Thus 
 the prairie developes men— when it does not kill them. 
 
 > 
 
%~^v 
 
 
 m 
 
 
 70 
 
 MONTEZUMA HOTEL. — 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 MONTEZUMA HOTEL. — MARVET S OF LAS VEGAS. — CO-OPERATION 
 AMONG THE PUEi t .— a RAnWAY THE CIVILI3ER. — UNEX- 
 PECTED SCENES AiH'.'.'f 'V.'^^'I • FE. 
 
 The reader has see: :iOW "V Daily Optic of Las Vegas 
 elevated me into an astronomical di>< thority, because I pointed 
 ont that the solar prophets had better means of alarming as 
 than by supposing such an experienced tramp of the skies, 
 as the comet is, did not know how to keep out of the way 
 of the sun. Astronomers might express their fear that the 
 earth is getting tired of running round its orbit, and would 
 drop down before long. This would be at once frightful, 
 because to the popular imagination, so likely. The grateful 
 Dailif Optic next informed its readers that " The Honourable 
 Georg:b Jacob Holyoake, of England, and party of railroad 
 people, went south this afternoon en route for Santa F^. An 
 Optic reporter had half-an-flour's chat with the distinguished 
 gentleman as he was waiting for his special car to leave for 
 Santa F&. Mr. Holyoake was completely carried away with 
 Las Vegas Hot Springs, and said the Santa F^ railway com- 
 pany would be justified in building to New Mexico for 
 the Spcingfii alone, and predicted a time when the resort 
 would become world known." If I had not been " carried 
 away " by Las Vegas, I might have been by these wonderful 
 paragraphs in the Optic,, hskd I stayed longer in New Mexico. 
 
 More than by the thousand courtesies and princely enter- 
 tainment accorded to me and my companions by the Topeka 
 and Santa F^ Railroad, of which I could not be unmindful, I 
 was struck by their enterprise in building a splendid hotel 
 like the Montezuma. The great Palace of Baths there, erected 
 peair the hotel, among the springs, exceeds in its variety and 
 completeness anything we have in England. Such civilisation 
 on the foothills of the Spanish range of the Rocky Mountains, 
 at an altitude where, until now, only Indians or Mexicans 
 wandered, did seem to me enterprise of a new order. The 
 hotelis gay, spacious, cheerful in all its rooms, entirely adapted 
 for freedom and pleasure. Telegraph without, telephone and 
 
eleotrio bells within, infinite laxories of the table, even to 
 varieties of ice cream, abound on a mountain not long since one 
 of tlie savage fortresses which surrounded the "Great Desert." 
 
 The railroad itself has been described in these pages by one 
 competent to judge it. The traveller is sure he is on a sound 
 highway. The stations of the company, and houses of their 
 ofGloials, are of a style fit to be a model for city builders 
 around, and of such character and uniformity that you knew 
 the houses as you approached them, which implies taste, not 
 accident. At no time was I asked by Colonel Johnson, or 
 Colonel Heron, what I thought of the land, or country, or 
 anything. They simply showed it to me. The giant moun- 
 tains were no " frauds," the teeming valleys were noi. 
 impostors, the honest crops could not lie — anyone could sf ^ 
 that. The officers who accompanied us rightly discerned t> :>.i 
 it was not necessary to ask the opinion of those who conic' /> 
 for themselves the marvels of the land they had to show. 
 
 Colonel Heron fought in the Southern army; Cobnel 
 Johnson in the Northern. Mrs. Ethel Leach, the lady i 
 travelled with us, has printed a bright and intelligent narra- 
 tive of her impression of our journey, and interesting par- 
 ticulars of the career of Colonel Johnson, whose mother 
 witnessed in her youth the murder of her parents by Chennes 
 Indians. She, in due time married a missionary, whose first 
 destination was to preach in Kansas among this very tribe, 
 of whom she had a life-long terror. Yet she bravely went, 
 although in her husband's absence preaching, the same fate 
 might befall her. This was real Christian heroism. Colonel 
 Johnson was born among the Indians. 
 
 Las Vegas, romantic as it is, is inadequately described in 
 all accounts of it I saw. No pictures of it inclined me to go 
 there. As I looked at them under burning skies, I thought 
 we should surely be baked at Las Vegas, with its hot springs. 
 To my surprise, while the valleys were sultry, the air at the 
 altitude of the Montezuma was cold, clear, and pure. The 
 springs alone were hot, not the mountain where they, like 
 the witches' cauldron, do really " boil and bubble." Yet no 
 guide book said so. The place is a very land of health, 
 enjoyable all the year round. Asthmatics recover there 
 rapidly. Even the flies find benefit there, for mountain air 
 carries them away down into valleys, where they have a good 
 time of it in their peculiar way. 
 
 It being an unaccustomed pastime, we went down the park 
 to play with the three black bears. My daughter being 
 
 *^.'-l 
 
72 
 
 THE RAILWAY THE (JIVILISER, 
 
 lavish with nuts, so interested one bear that he stood up and 
 clasped her round, and looked up with what would have been 
 a pretty bepjeohinguess, had he not employed at the same 
 time an argument of oompression, which was natural to him, 
 but inconvenient to the subject of it, since no disentanglement 
 was possible until more nuts were procured and poured by 
 the side of this impressive suitor — when he let go his bold 
 to get them. From which we learned that bears, like many 
 other people, are only to be trusted while they are getting 
 nuts. 
 
 Below the bears, on the road on which we bad come, we 
 passed by the adobe temple of Montezuma. Adobe is pro- 
 nounced in three syllables — a-du-be — and is the Mexican 
 name for a mud-built house, which are usually one story 
 high ; so that Santa F^ has been compared to a town blown 
 down. When the Emperor Montezuma perished he told his 
 followers to keep the firo burning in the Temple, as he would 
 come again from the East, and they should see " his face 
 bright and fair." In warfare and pestilence and decimation 
 of their race these faithful worshippers kept the fire burning 
 night and day for three centuries, and it has not long been 
 extinguished. Europe can show no faith so patient, enduring, 
 and pathetic as this. 
 
 The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway is a line 
 with a long name, but it stretches a long way. It has dis- 
 covered Kansas and New Mexico, by enabling the world to 
 get at them, as other great lines — the Canadian, Pacific, and 
 Northern lines — are revealing unknown lands on their routes. 
 We did not see any cities grow while we passed by, but they 
 do grow as though they sprang from the ground like other 
 crops. As farmers cultivate cereals, railways cultivate cities. 
 Oolouel Johnson told us that when making the survey of 
 Kansas, he dined on the ground where the city of Newton 
 now stands. There was not then a house within twenty -five 
 miles of it. It has now a city hotel. When dining there, we 
 were told that the landlord was an Englishman, and that 
 Englishmen from cities around meet there every year to 
 celebrate the Queen's birthday. The change in security the 
 railway has wrought may be seen in this ; that a few years ago 
 Santa Fe mails went only once a month . Passengers were noti - 
 fied that the coach was supplied with provisions and ammuni- 
 tion, so that travellers had only to bring their own guns. Now 
 all along the old war path, and far away in canon and gorge, we 
 found hotels which give a new charm to life, as replete with 
 
CO-OPERATION AMONG THE PUEBLOS. — 
 
 73 
 
 tat 
 to 
 ,he 
 
 kgO 
 
 Rtndied and refined comforts as Cox's Hotel, in Jermyn-street, 
 London. We bad upon our table trout fresb from the 
 mountain stream — not the Irwell or the Roaob — and deer and 
 elk that had breathed only the pure air of the lofty plains. 
 Topeka is a city of mark, as solid looking as Leamington, and 
 as large as Cheltenham, yet not many years ago there was 
 not a house within 125 miles of it. 
 
 The printing in New Mexico is mostly pale, but guidebooks 
 to counties abound — indeed, the counties themselves abound. 
 Very interesting reading are these descriptions of unknown 
 places — that is, unknown to Europeans. Such, for instance, 
 are those issued by the " Territorial Bureau of Immigration " 
 of Santa Fo. The deputation from the Board of Trade, which 
 did me the honour to wait upon me, quite confirmed what I 
 reao. 
 
 The proprietor of the Chicwjo Times ^ Mr. Joseph Medhill, 
 lately gave evidence before the '* Senate Sub-Committee on 
 Wage-Workers," describing oo-oporative workshops and their 
 unpopularity — and no wonder from the way in which Mr. 
 Medhill says they have been worked. We have not much 
 to boast of our practice in England, but our theories are 
 clearer. In New Mexico I heard nothing of co-operation, 
 save at the Indian settlement below Santa F«^, where the 
 governor handed all the money we gave him to his wife. If 
 we gave him any in another apartment, he handed it over 
 the intervening fence to her — no doubt with a view to an 
 equal division of profits ultimately. It is clear that the 
 rights of women also are well established among the Pueblos. 
 In the court yard was a " caretta " — a curious primitive 
 wagon— of which the axle-tree was of wood. It was such a 
 one as Moses might have had in his farm yard. It resembled 
 those to be seen in illustrations of the Old Testament. The 
 man who made the first canoe with a flint knife might have 
 made this wagon. 
 
 Beyond all artisans or tradesmen in the world I envied the 
 Mexican wood seller. He takes three days to cut his wood 
 in the most romantic dells in the universe. He loads his 
 asses in the morning sun. Spends a day in roadless gorges 
 by the side of his four-footed friends. He takes another day 
 in the quaint sunny city of Sanlu F4 selling his bundles. 
 Another day he returns. For his six days' work he obtains five, 
 or if wood is scarce in the city, six shilhngs. With this money 
 in hand he buys a pint of whisky, of quality very doubtful, 
 the backbones of a couple of sheep, aomi ':offee, or pepper, or 
 
 11 
 
74 
 
 UNkXPECTED SCENES ABOUT SANTA FE. 
 
 1 1 
 
 ;i 
 
 •»' 
 
 some other spice. He does no more work while those pro- 
 ▼isions last. Ho takes no notice of the markets whether the 
 prices are high or low. He revisits it only when his necessity 
 compels him. He has no care, no mabter, no overlooker, no bells 
 ring him up to work. He has no artificial wants — he breathes 
 some of the purest air on this planet. In the far distance, 
 silver-capped mountains wait for his glance, sweet streams 
 ripple at his feet, and if the sun fatigues him be sleeps under 
 the bushes, and his faithful asses lie down and await his 
 pleasure. The day is warm and undamp, the night cold but 
 dry. No vermin, large fruit, grass not green but rich, which 
 feeds his asses without cost. ^Vhen he pleases to awake he 
 calls to his loaded friends, and they jointly pursue their way. 
 No electoral agitator is about here — he knows nothing of 
 Irish discontent or ritualistic troubles. Democrat and Repub- 
 lican, Tory and Liberal, are alike unknown to him. The 
 ballot box is not set up in his parts. He has health without 
 effort, good teeth, and black hair. His garments last for a 
 generation — appearances and fashion concern him in nowise. 
 Other Mexicans rear goats and drive them at leisure a 
 hundred miles to market. They sell the kids on their way, 
 and then sell the milk of the mothers. If they find no sale 
 for the stock they drive them back again. The corn bread 
 they make, and water fiom the streams, or milk of the goats, 
 nourish them, and they sleep on the ground. I thought, as I 
 met them, on their happy way, God preserve them from 
 civilisation. As far as we have yet brought it» it can do nothing 
 for them 
 
 l-'( 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 LAST DAYS IN 3AVTA FE.— BTBANOE CHILDBEN.— MIGHTY LANDLORDS. 
 — SPLENDID DENVER. — FISH CO-OPERATION. — CAPTAIN TIBBETT8 
 IN THE CANONS. 
 
 The pleasantest hours of exploration I spent in Santa F^ 
 were in the old ohurch o^ Ban Miguel, where my better- 
 informed friends knew I wac sure to be found. Though the 
 oldest churoh in America) there are those who would remove 
 rather than restore it. A book lay upon an altar in which all 
 who would subscribe to save it had inserted their names, and 
 I added mine for all I could afford. I am not a good Catholic, 
 but in all that relates to the antiquities of faith I am both 
 Catholic and Conservative. I saw nothing in Salem which 
 interested me more than the first churoh erected in America 
 by the Pilgrim Fathers. Brother Botolph, such was his 
 modest name, head of the seminary of San Miguel, was a 
 gentleman of fine manuors and courtly conversation. He 
 evidently knew much more than was to be learned in Santa F4. 
 
 Often, in England, we have to guard against breathing, and 
 are supplied with meohanicsJ means to mitigate its results, 
 while in Denver, and on the plains of Santa F^ breathing is 
 a new pleasure. There are districts where a person who cannot 
 live in England may have life and enjoyment in America, if 
 he has but a good guide book to direct his steps. 
 
 The Bio Grande River, where bad malaria wanders along 
 its banks, seeking whom it may assail, divides New from Old 
 Mexico. Rio Grande is pronounced Ri-o Grand at Denver, 
 but at Santa F^ it was spoken of as Ree-o Grandee, which is 
 accepted as correct. The city of Old Mexico lies hundreds 
 of miles U yond the Rio Grande River. But farewell to Santa 
 F^, where the Spaniard has left his picturesque impress on 
 land and people ; for Spanish pride and Mexican indolence 
 are blended in everyone and seen in every step. One incident 
 must end the brief story of the old city. 
 
 At Santa F^ I saw a sight not yet to be seen in England, and 
 we shall do very well if we never do see it. A boy came ob 
 the car one day and offered to sell green stones. He vrm 
 
 
 ^1 
 
 ii 
 
i 
 
 ii 
 
 liii 
 
 »'-■■ 
 1^ 
 
 if: 
 
 If 
 
 m 
 
 76 
 
 STRANGE CHILDREN. — 
 
 m^ 
 
 well dressed, of respectable family, probably clever at sobool, 
 clean, paU pretty, quite a yonug American gentleman, yet 
 he proposed to " trade " stones which he had picked up, and 
 knew to be of no value, but which, as strangers, he thought 
 we might not know from those which were valuable. It was 
 a melancholy sight. If" is bad enough when men in later 
 years come to this; but here was one whom you would take to 
 be a noble youth, who was well cared for, who had no need to 
 do this thing. 
 
 Another strange thing I saw was in a great hotel, at one of 
 the recreation islands of New York. Near twelve o'clock 
 one Saturday night we descended from our rooms to see what 
 was going on at that time in the saloons. We took an ice 
 cream to occupy us while we saw the end of a singular 
 repast on an adjacent table. A gentleman had arrived at that 
 hour with two young children — a sou and daughter — 
 apparently from ten to twelve years old. They were of fair 
 height, but there was nothing of them. They were all nerve, 
 bone, vivacity, palex^ess, and prettiness. He had before him 
 an enormous beef steak, of a pound-and-a-half or more, 
 very thick. Half of this he cut into two parts, and gave one 
 to each poor child. The poor things ate it, what else afterwards 
 I know not, we went away ; too distressed to see more. How 
 could the little creatuiv^s sleep that night? On Sunday 
 morning they probably had a meat breakfast, as the custom 
 is, and I saw the girl afterwards, leaping about like a grass- 
 hopper, not bybernating as a serpent would, and as she 
 should. 
 
 On another night, at another place, I sat down late after 
 speaking, and was partaking of sandwiches and claret, intend- 
 ing to conclude with coffee and crisp bread and butter. One 
 of two ladies at the table, said, " We wonder you can take 
 such a repast." " What are you taking ?" I asked. " Biscuits 
 and hot water." "Hot water!" I exclaimed. "Yes, it is 
 much recommended for indigestion." One of these ladies I 
 had known in London years ago, where she was distinguished 
 for brilliant attainments and electric brightness and anima- 
 tion. Alas, had it come to " hot water !" I wondered 
 whether they had been fed at midnight, when they were 
 children, on chump steaks. 
 
 Discussing questions of art with my valued friend, the late 
 Thornton Hunt— son of the poet, Leigh Hunt — he ended 
 one night by saying what I have often thought of since: 
 " Art will not have done all it can until it has taught men 
 
and women to be artists in flesh." When Americans add this 
 to theiir other accomplishments they will do less, achieve 
 more, and excel the world. 
 
 But let me beg the reader's pardon. It was all of the boy 
 with the false green stones who begailed me into this 
 di£,reBsion. The proper progress of my story is towards the 
 Raton Eange. 
 
 Landlord making, in Mexico surpasses all that England or 
 Ireland ever knew. What is known as the " Maxwell grant " 
 was a gift from the Emperor of Mexico of 1,400,000 acres in a 
 ring fence. We rode through it for fifty miles. It was first 
 given to two Frenchmen , Beaubien and Mibanda. Maxwell was 
 a Scotch trapper, who joined one of the Frenchmen, andmarried 
 bis daughter. Finally, by purchase and otherwise, he became 
 possessor of the grant, and sold it for 600,000 dollars. The 
 next time it was sold it fetched a million and half of dollars. It 
 has again been sold for more than three million dollars. The 
 secretary and local manager I found was a young Leicester 
 man, Mr. Whyham, as vigorous and ruddy as a young Quorn 
 farmer. He courteously travelled with us through the vast 
 Grant, describing it to us, and telling us how near a 
 thousand Indians had lately come up to look at it ; some 
 said they knew it ; all said they liked it ; so they hung 
 about. The ranch owners and others thought it natural 
 they should come and see the old country again, which 
 they once possessed, and gave them repasts for a week 
 or two, when the Indians thought they would stay. 
 Tbat meant living on the settlers' crops and cattle, so Mr. 
 Whyham had to request the commander at Santa F^ to send 
 troops to march the tribe back to their own Reservation. Mr. 
 Maxwell was something like a landlord. His little plot, 
 allowing fourteen acres for a family (Feargus O'Connor 
 allowed only two), would support 100,000 householders. 
 
 The Chennes Indians will not eat fish, nor bear, nor turkey. 
 There they miss their way. They are without the sense of 
 the fox. I saw a bright negress amid Indians. The negress 
 was far more of a lady than any Indianess there. 
 
 We had glimpses of the great rocks where the CM dwellers 
 lived, but it would require Professor Ttndall, who is an 
 Alpine climber, to get up them. We saw more adobe houses, 
 which formerly had their entrance only from above. About 
 a century ago the people began to venture upon doors, and 
 much later they tried the effect of a window. When these 
 houses were three stories high, It meant three houses and 
 
 1 
 
ft 
 
 I 
 
 mi 
 
 m 
 ml 
 
 ? It! 
 n;! 
 
 III 
 
 
 4 
 
 78 
 
 SPLENDID DENVER. — 
 
 separate families. Those at the bottom had to ascend 
 and descend through each of the other houses to their own — 
 there being bnt one entrance at the top. There must have 
 been an art of association among these old Mexicans to enable 
 them to live so. Y\^e went again through the *' dust flips " of 
 Las Vegas, but the dust I found was of a superior quality — 
 not like Strand dust or Broadway dust — of all flavours. 
 
 Denver, whose business formerly was poker, and whose 
 pastime was shooting anybody about, I had longed to see, and 
 it did delight me. Its noble thoroughfares, splendid schools, 
 opulent opera-house, hotels, and habitations were a miraculous 
 change. Denver stands on a plateau 6,000 feet above the 
 sea. Surrounded by a glorious circle of mighty mountains 
 greatly higher than the city, dark, blue, distant, and 
 majestic. Denver, now the capital of Colorado, is to have a 
 State House on a plateau commanding this splendid scene, 
 forming a political promenade with which only Ottawa can 
 vie ; and Denver will have this advantage, that no saw mills 
 and no lumber piles can obscure or mitigate its glory. 
 
 Politicians seem to know exactly what they are in Denver, 
 One told me he was one-third Republican and two-third.s 
 Democrat, but he thought the proportion of his opinion would 
 change if Republicans put forward better men out there. 
 
 Mr. Frank High, travelling agent of the Chicago and Alton 
 Line, ut Denver, was the most ubiquitous and omniscient 
 guide in the land. He had been everywhere, and knew so 
 many things that he seemed to us to know all. He told us 
 of the silver-crowned rocks of Oregon, 11,000ft. high, stand- 
 ing out on plains of green sward, forty miles around; of 
 cherries of walnut size, fruit of exceeding richness ; of 
 tirprs on which vessels of 15ft. draught can ply, and where 
 whales gambol, and sharks and thrashers play. All this 
 is true of parts of Oregon, for Mr. High is to be trusted in 
 recounting what he has seen. He added, there is co-operation 
 in the sea as well as on the laud. The sword flsh and the 
 thrasher are two powerful fish. The whale excites the 
 appetites and envy of both, but the whale is more than a match 
 for either alone. The fish which can pierce, and the crasher, 
 as he is called (schoolboys cal] him "thrasher"), is consti- 
 tuted so that he can strike a blow like a Nasmyth hammer. 
 So these two interesting monsters lay their intelligent heads 
 together, and agree to co-operate in hunting the whale. 
 Their pian of attack is this — the crasher strikes the whale 
 an astounding blow on the back, while his comrade stabs him 
 
from below, when the whale, who swims on the competitive 
 system, and has no friend, has a bad time of it. Ultimately 
 the co-operators above and below divide his blnbber equitably 
 between them. The crasher and his friend always go out 
 dividend -hunting together, their dividend being good blubber. 
 
 It is worth remarking of this country that they have 
 months of continuous rain or drizzle. The Oregonites are then 
 as damp as Englishmen, and men and women wear water- 
 proofs. Then, follow months of uninterrupted, glorious 
 sunshine and abounding fertility. Mr. Henry VnxABD, the 
 enterprising President of the Northern Pacific Bail way (instead 
 of saying railway they say " railroad " in America, and instead 
 of writing railroad they write "B.R") which runs through 
 Oregon, offered to take me over their vast route by rail and 
 steamship — so that I could see all things for myself. 
 
 Mr. Duff, an English gentleman, superintends the interest 
 of the great irrigation works of the Denver Company. I had 
 seen seventy miles of their canals. Mr. Duff, who rendered 
 me important service, also explained their operations to me. 
 To supply the plains of Kansas and Colorado with water at 
 will, is to enable the farmers to command fertility and fortune 
 there. 
 
 Mr. NiMS, of the Denver and Eio Grande Railroad, accorded 
 us opulent facilities for seeing the miracles of the Grand 
 Canons and Leadvillo, and gave us Captain Tibbetts as a 
 conductor. The captain exceeded in enthusiasm and imper- 
 turbable geniality all conductors I met. He explained to me 
 the beauties and wonders of the " Boyal Gorge," as though 
 he had " to trade " it. .But that was not in his mind. Had 
 nature appointed him to show it, he could not have spoken of 
 it with more reverence. In his inspired way he put me to the 
 Chinese torture, not by pinching and pricking me, but by 
 denying me sleep. All new travellers in that high ozonic 
 region are overcome with drowsiness until sleep is sweeter 
 than a mountain. Mr. Charlton, Colonel Johnson, all my 
 fellow-travellers were quiet, dreaming of the abysses 
 hanging over their heads, and eu joying all things reversed. 
 Not a wink did Captain Tibbetts accord to me. It was 
 necessary to his peace that I should see all. One moment 
 he would point out a dozen wonders. When he had left 
 me he had his eye on me. Before we came to a new 
 miracle the blinds were drawn, and the fierce sun burnt me 
 into wakefulness. I knew when a new vista of beauty was 
 near, for from the corners of my eye I could discern the 
 
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 „ r 
 
 , »*' 
 
 
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m\ 
 
 hi; 
 1 , 
 
 n 
 
 
 80 
 
 CAPTAIN TIBBETTB IN THE CANONS. 
 
 gleams of Captain Tibbett's bright buttons (the brightest in 
 the United States) approach — and so I saw all things. I was 
 told, that though he was asked a thousand questions an hour 
 by a thousand excursionists, he answered each as though he 
 had not spent years in answering the same questions. Such 
 imperturbable, such invincible geniality is possessed by this 
 prince of guides. 
 
 As we ascended 5,000ft. a day we saw the moods and 
 manners of the rocks face to face. Some looked like vast 
 cathedrals, with a hundred spires towering to the skies. We 
 had not to imagine them to be temples — it was difficult to 
 believe they were not real. Everywhere great projections of 
 weird forms came upon us. We met sphynxes of Egypt by 
 the hundred. Portions of many rocks seemed like stone 
 animals of an earlier age that crawled in the infancy 
 of the world. Sculptors of genius might go there and carve 
 the magical projections with little labour into inconceivable 
 forms, or into portraits, and convert the canons of Arkansas 
 into corridors of the gods surpassing dreams of " Arabian 
 Nights," or anything Dante saw or Milton conceived. 
 
 The golden river of Arkansas runs 1,300 miles. For 
 hundreds of miles we ran by its side. Eocks continually 
 interrupted our view of it, but ever and anon it came again 
 into sight and always with new beauty. The rocks are too 
 lich in gold for miners yet to wash its golden sands, but the 
 mighty rock-guarded river they may never mar. As I looked 
 day by day, as it rippled, or rushed, or glided as fresh 
 accessions of water incited it, I coijaed ' ■'.. be phrases 
 imagination could supply me to descri"'; ; o wandering 
 Arkansas, but I have cast them jut of • ..h, as none 
 
 can convey to the reader the miraculous beauty that lay 
 sleeping or gleaming there. 
 
 1 
 
PRODiaAL LIVING. — WONDERS OF THE ROCK-ROADS. — 81 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 PRODIGAL LIVING. — WONDERS OF THE ROCK- ROADS. — LEADVILLE 
 WAYS. — DOWN IN SCALP-LAND. 
 
 The Bishop of Kansas was never thoroughly instructed as 
 to how I came by that remarkable red faoe, which he 
 observed me to have, during the pleasant days we travelled 
 together through New Mexico. On returning from my visit to the 
 Pueblo Indians, I lay full in the sun, basking in delight undei 
 its rays — as is my wont, unaware, until told, that my face 
 was scorched ; and when I returned to the Palace Hotel, I 
 was advised to bathe it in glycerine, which gave me the 
 appearance of a polished Bed Indian. Had I drank Bourbon 
 whisky for a month, I could not have looked so suspiciously 
 radiant. Sir Wilfrid Lawson would not have known me. 
 I apologised to the bishop, with whom I dined, but when I 
 was introduced to his wife, my confusion — added to my 
 other appearances — rendered, I am afraid, my explanation 
 unbelievable. Other persons, better acquainted than I with 
 Bourbon whisky, had referred similar njanifestations to the 
 sun, before me ; and I am afraid the lady pitied my sim- 
 plicity more than my misfortune. 
 
 I had a small flask I had bought in Montreal. It held but 
 a ouartern-and-half. In Denver, it came into my head to 
 have it filled with the best brandy. I was charged 63. (a 
 drllar-and-half) for it. There is no need of teetotal societies 
 out there. If pledges were laid about a saloon bar, anybody 
 would sign them before coming away. I brought the brandy 
 to Loudon. I shall leave it to some hospital <7hen I die. 
 
 The way of the country accounts for much. In great hotels 
 I was fond of sitting in bars, for conversation and picking t 
 character ; for, as Jerrold would say, there is sometimes 
 good deal lost there. I often saw young men order a costly 
 drink, sip a quarter of it, and walk away. They were not 
 drinkers, they were money-spenders. It was as though a 
 person in England ordered half a pint of wine, drank a wine- 
 glass, and left it. One day I saw a senator in the dining-hall 
 order a variety of expensive dishes, taste a few, order others, 
 and eat moderately. He certainly wasted ten shillings. He 
 
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 82 
 
 WONDERS OF THE ROCK- ROADS. — 
 
 did not take wine, or he would have wasted as mnoh more. 
 My impression was that hotels are regarded as very pleasant 
 oharitable institutions, which ought to be supported in this 
 disguised and delicate way, instead of leaving a subscription 
 at the bar openly. 
 
 When I was travelling among those awful canons of 
 Colorado, heretofore described, the railroad up the rocks 
 seemed more frightful than artist or imagination had painted 
 it. My constant inquiry of Mr. Nims, of the Bio Grande, was 
 " who were the engineers who conceived and executed those 
 awful ascents ?" In England, the name of him who builds a 
 tubular bridge over the Menai Straits, or outs a tunnel under 
 the Thames, is in the mouth of the world. Miracles of 
 mechanism and construction, more wonderful than any we 
 have in England, have been accomplished in America, yet, on 
 the spot where the mighty works of these engineers were 
 performed, hardly anyone knows their names, and no statue 
 of them meets the eyes of the traveller. I never ceased to 
 wonder and put questions about them. In those canons 
 there were promontories of stcne which could be carved, like 
 the Sphynx, iuto colossal heads of the great engineers, and 
 the wondering traveller for ages might look on the faces of 
 those who lade the miraoulous way. Above was terrific 
 altitude, below './as a terrific abyss of rock and river. Along 
 that silent and foreboding way the trains rushed down at 
 night laden with tons of ore, or climbed summit after summit, 
 as the road varied. The engines crawled up the awful rocks 
 like mighty tarantulas with claws of steel. The trains ran 
 round and round the mountains. Snorting as they rose, you 
 could see the engine pushing in the rear like the tail of flame 
 of an iron serpent. Now it left the rock, now it approached 
 it as it wound round it, now, standing apart from it, as 
 FtOssETTi did by hi^ bride — to admire the more her form and 
 beauty. 
 
 There was one consolation, there are no ghosts in the 
 canons. They would be terrified amid those grim, towering 
 cliffs. In those trackless chasms they would lose their way. 
 It is quite true that the action of volcano, water and tem- 
 pests have carved the rocks into such weird shapes, that a 
 sculptor, with imagination, could convert these canons into a 
 stone corridor, which might be taken to be of the antediluvian 
 world, in which monsters undreamt of by Owen, or Darwin, 
 or Huxley, might be added to the wonders of the world — in 
 which everything would be strange and nothing unnatural. 
 
 
 1 1 
 
Lhe 
 
 LEADVTLLE WAYS. — 
 
 88 
 
 
 So we went to Leadville. Amid diverging ranges of 
 monntains, and over the valleys, we had amazing gleams of 
 sylvan beanty and verdure. Alas, enterprise and civilisation 
 are denuding mountains of their trees and extinguishing 
 their grim glory — searching for gold. Nature ends where 
 commercial civilisation begins. Let us hope that nature has, 
 like the Indians, some Reservation of beauties, which are 
 indestructible, some vast mountain ranges which yield no 
 minerals, or that the world may soon become an international 
 federation, and the remaining beauties of the globe be pro- 
 tected in the interests of mankind; otherwise, those who 
 come after us will find only a world of cinders and blast 
 furnaces, and the last man will be found by the telescopes 
 pointed at him from the planets — perched on a steam boiler. 
 
 Miners and farm labourers are the most fortunate of 
 English workmen. A farm hand can get rations, and save 
 dollars where mechanics would perish. A miner in mining 
 districts is pretty sure — I was told always sure — of work, and 
 15s. or more a day, and be able to buy a whole quarter of 
 beef at six cents (threepence) a pound. All memorable Lead- 
 ville mining began in an old Callfornian gulch. The fashions 
 of Leadville are set in the shafts. There are no " mashers " 
 or "dudes" about there. A dandy would be deemed a 
 puppy. Olaysoiled flannel shirts art signs of respectability. 
 On the breast of a rough, flannel-shirted miner may at times 
 be seen a diamond pin worth $2,000. I saw one miner with 
 the price of his last-bought garment on his back, where the 
 dealer had left it ; he bad not thought it worth while to pull 
 it off. One of the things which command respect in America 
 is the public and private respect in which a man is held who 
 works. The enterprising settler who, having need to move 
 on, when his wife is unable to walk, and he having not yet 
 acquired a prairie schooner, trundles her through the cities 
 on a wheelbarrow, is mentioned with honour in the local 
 papers. Some would say an act like this is not thinking of 
 " appearances." But are noti humanity and enterprise, in 
 honest work within your means, the best of appearances ? — 
 a thousand times nobler and more refined than the shabby, 
 mean-spirited, contemptible '• respectability " which is too 
 proud to do a humble, kind, and useful act, but is not too 
 proud to subsist at other people's expense, to live on food 
 unearned, and wear clothes unpaid for. America knows these 
 kind of people. They seek her shores : she does not know- 
 ingly '• raise " them. 
 
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 84 
 
 DOWN IN SCALP-LAND — 
 
 When Leadville — the great mountain city of America — 
 covers the mighty summit on which it stands, and palaces 
 and towers rise within it, what a study of mountains near, 
 remote, and all around, can be made there ! Some mountains 
 are covered with dark green verdure near to the apex. That 
 being of ice, it glistens in the sun as though it were bur- 
 nished. Some mountains seemed laughing, some satanic, 
 others quite human ; others as though they belonged to the 
 skies, which their peaks seemed to touch, and to be parts oi 
 their glory. 
 
 It was in Denver where one journal, in a well- written 
 article, described me in the heading as " A Great Man." I 
 was unaware of this, and none of my friends had ever 
 discovered it. What was ingenuously and kindly said of us in 
 the Journal of Topeka, and in the papers of the cities through 
 which we passed, I may never relate, but may preserve 
 among my home records of the pleasant and amusing civilities 
 of travel. In his charming letters, *' Ireland from a Tricycle," 
 Mr. DuiGNAN tells us that Irish proper names were descriptive 
 of the places. The ancient name of Dublin meant hurdle- 
 ford. Annamoe signified the ford of the cows. I wished 
 Americans would either invent pleasant names, or borrow 
 historic ones, or contrive such as some pleasant feature of the 
 place suggests. In the honest, straightforward plains of 
 Kansas we came upon " Dodge " City. J 'elt uncertain of 
 everything all the while I was in the evasive place. In 
 Charti " days one of the O'Connor colonies was at " Snig's 
 End." Everybody felt mean who went there. 
 
 •' Coolidge" is not at all a romantic name, though the land 
 about it is fall of romance. That is where railway 
 officers were shot lately by train robbers. It looked an 
 innocent city when we were there. That is perhaps why it 
 was selected. Where cities are small, with special facilities 
 for horjemen to escape, where cities are at great distances 
 from other cities, and border ruffians are not yet extinct, train 
 robbing occurs now and then. At one city the town asked 
 permission, while we dined at the hotel, to walk through our 
 car, as the like had not been seen by the inhabitants. 
 Whether attractiveness of the car was noised abroad I know 
 not, but next day cowboys came doWn to make observation. 
 Finding another train not to their satisfaction, they fired 
 their revolv' ra through the windows. Of course, they seized 
 the telegraph clerk, threatening him if he sent word up the 
 wires. He said he would not, because he had done so before 
 
THE COWBOY OF KANSAS. - 
 
 86 
 
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 they got to him, and an engine with armed citizens from a 
 near station came domi upon them and captared those who 
 did not fly fast enough. 
 
 The cowboy, as we met him on his mustang, riding 
 through the com, a sombrero on his head, his moustaolie 
 blown by the breeze, his hair streaming anyhow, his brown 
 corrugated throat all open, his red shirt puffed out by 
 the wiod, a piatol-belt round his waist, and trousers tucked 
 into wide-mouthed top boots — the half-wild, resolute, dare- 
 devil, prairie creature is a picturesque figure. 
 
 Our way lay towards Lawrence city. Below the University 
 there lay the vale of Lawrence, where, in the days of the 
 civil war, Quantrell came down one night with 300 mounted 
 rebel ruffians, and, at daybreak, shot all the men as they left 
 their homes and such women and children as were in the way, 
 and burnt the city down by six o'clock. It was an unarmed 
 city, many miles from any other then, and the murderers 
 were well on their way back to the south before any pursuit 
 was possible. 
 
 The Bishop of Kansas told me that when a boy his geography 
 books described the fertile plains we were riding through as 
 a " great desert." We could see that Kansas is not a bad 
 place for a settlement, where, as I have said, forty-four-pound 
 melons can be had at ten cents apiece. Doctor Abebnethy's 
 advice to a plethoric and indolent patient — " Live on sixpence 
 a day and earn it,"— could be acted upon in Kansas ; for there 
 a vegetarian could live on a cent and a-half a day, and not 
 earn it. He could beg that out there. 
 
 A friend of mine, who in former years had explored Cali- 
 fornia and Coloradian regions, inspecting and estimating the 
 value of gold fields, had seen that lone settlers sometimes 
 were in need of a little more capital to farm their land 
 adequately. With such aid they could obtain ample com- 
 petence. He therefore entrusted a sum of money to an agent 
 (who was under great obligation to him, and on whom he 
 believed he could rely) to lend out discerningly and to trans- 
 mit to him the interest accruing. In the valley, where the 
 agent was raised, he seemed a man of good honour, but in 
 the thin air of these mountains his morality seemed to become 
 rarified, and was no longer condensed into remittances. My 
 friend asked me to collect these outstanding funds as I 
 passed through the district. I had knowledge of things out 
 there to guide me. The descendant of a gentleman well- 
 known in French literature, whose father was the secretary 
 
 
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 80 
 
 ADVENTURE OF A LOAN OOLLECTOa 
 
 of a diplomatist of great name, had a few years ago oome to 
 London. It was there I knew his mother. He had 
 travelled himself in the parts I had to Tisit, and had 
 invested money, in like manner as my friend had done, 
 and was troubled in tho same way by what Douglas Jbreold 
 called the " nn-remitting " attentions of his agent. One night 
 he arrived himself in the city which I had to visit. He had 
 left Europe without any word of his intention to appear in 
 America, and suddenly sent for his agent to the hotel at which 
 he stayed. The agent came, cool, enthusiastic, and delighted 
 to see him, and spent the ' vening with him. They dined 
 together with hilarity on both sides, for the agent bad 
 promised to bring over in the morning both accuunts and 
 balance due. Next morning the gentleman was found dead 
 in his room. There were no experts in toxicology con- 
 sulted, if they were at band. It might be heart disease, or 
 excitement of travel leading to apoplexy, which caused the 
 poor gentleman's sudden demise. It was long before the 
 death of the investor was known in England, and accounts 
 interest, and capital alike, have never been heard of further. 
 I was more fortunate in recovering funds, but the affair is not 
 yet ended, or I should relate the adventures which befel me 
 in the expedition I undertook. 
 
 We spent days of ceaseless interest in Scalpland on our 
 return journey to Chicago. Hearing of curious objects in one of 
 the railway cities, I took my daughter into a saloon, and was 
 given permission to take her behind the bar, where she could 
 examine the dress of an Indian, slain some time ago, around 
 whose belt hung several scalps — one, that of a white girl who 
 had auburn hair. Men capable of those things were still to 
 be seen about. As the prophet predicted the day when 
 swords would be turned into ploughshares, we, happily, saw 
 the day when the knife of the Indian is melted into steel rails 
 for peaceable people to travel over. 
 
 The engine given us by the Topeka and Santa F^ Company 
 was the best, or one of the best known in the land. Our 
 engineer was a bright man, with remarkable intelligence and 
 judgment, who could be entirely trusted. We had a merry- 
 minded, competent, coloured steward, whose commissariat 
 never failed, and we had a well-informed conductor, whose 
 omnipresent knowledge of the movement of every train by 
 night and by day, kept us clear of every danger ; and wherever 
 he said we could go, our engineer could be depended on to 
 take us. The boiler of the engine was enclosed in a handsome 
 
AN HEROIC ENOINBER. 
 
 87 
 
 Strong glass chamber, and on either side was stretched 
 a handsome crimson seat, serving as sofas. My daughter 
 and Mrs. Lbaob would go oat there and lie and watch the 
 prairies for eighty miles at a time. Had the boiler taken to 
 wilfal ways, they would certainly have been extensively 
 dispersed in those parts. It was, nevertheless, a great 
 luxury for them to be able to enjoy such splendour and such 
 peril. 
 
 Orape floated at the end of the engine, as it did on every 
 engine that day belonging to the great railway line. A few 
 nights before a collision had occurred at Topeka, when a 
 bright, brave engineer, like our own, lost his life. He had 
 arrived with his train, when he found another train darting 
 upon him. His assistants leaped from the engine, and the 
 people on the platform called out to him to leap o£f, which he 
 might have done ; but such was his confidence in his capacity, 
 his courage, and heroic sense of duty, that he remained, 
 believing be could reverse the engine and save it. His arm, 
 grasping tiie valve gear, was all that remained of the intrepid 
 engineer. The orape we carried on our engine was for him. 
 He was to have been present at the marriage of his brother 
 the next morning. At Topeka we took the brother and his 
 pretcy bride into our carriage on their wedding trip to Cali- 
 fornia. I gave up with very great pleasure my separate 
 apartment in the car for their convenience. It was the only 
 tribute I could pay to the memory of the brave brother of 
 the bridegroom. 
 
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 DISPUTABLE FACTS, — 
 
 CHAPTEE XVir. 
 
 DISPUTABLE FACTS. — AMONG THE MENNONITES. — COURTESIES OF 
 
 TEA- VEL COOPERATIVE DISCOURSE IN LAWRENCE UNIVERSITY. — 
 
 OHICAOO AT LAST. 
 
 The strongest argument tn favonr of an American Gaide 
 Book is the fact that no aoconnt can be given of any place or 
 thing which somebody, who has seen some other aspect of it, 
 or has had other expci^ience, will not contradict. In my 
 former papers " Among the Americans " I gave letters from 
 persons who had passed twenty years in the same place 
 entirely contradictory. One had made l^ fortnce, and another 
 had lost one. He who passes through a city in the summer, 
 where inhabitants abound in streets and parks, thinks it popu- 
 lous and gay ; while he who sees it only in winter, when none 
 are about save the roughly clad, takes the same place to be 
 dreary and deserted. Sometimes I intentionally listened to 
 reports of things or places inaccessible to me, where the 
 speaker was a man of known powers of observation and ad- 
 mitted veracity. If anything so heard seems to me of interest 
 sufficient to be named in these pages, I indicate upon whose 
 authority the statement rests. In a country like the United 
 States, of a thousand climates and a hundred races, only a 
 Government can possess the information which shall present 
 the average of facts, of conditions and prospects of settlers, 
 and should render what they know in an accessible form. 
 
 Messrs. Belford and Clarke, publishers in Chicago, made 
 me a present of a curious work, issued by them, entitled the 
 •* Forty Liars." I ought to say that it was given me for ex- 
 amination — not for imitation, I found there were not more 
 than six good lies (using " good " in an artistic, not in u moral 
 sense) ^'n the whole book, so difficult is it to lie well. So 
 many unseen things have to be taken into account — so many 
 buttress-falsehoods have to be invented, to hold the first 
 lie up and make it look real and self-supporting — that the 
 trouble of a lie is greater than that of the truth ; indeed, 
 few persons have the ability to quite conceal a fact under the 
 foliage of falsehood. Therefore, supposing my taste not to 
 
AMONG THE MBMNONITES. — 
 
 89 
 
 be in the direction of trath, I Bhonld adhere to it on the 
 groundo of facility and economy. The reader, therefore, may 
 conclude that my narrative will be as trastworthy as most. 
 
 When arriving at the farmyard of the chiefs of the Men 
 nonite settlement — described by Mr. Chablton earlier in this 
 story — we entered a wide avenne formed by yonng light< 
 branched trees, growing, as is the wont of trees in Kansas, 
 as though they expected to receive a commission on their 
 height. What was most surprising was the number of brilliant 
 flies and butterflies which filled the road. I never saw, or 
 thought to see, so many at once. It was quite a Butterfly 
 Avenue. An entomologist needs no not there; he might 
 capture a hundred choice flies in his hat at will. They 
 seemed to fill the pass, and we had reluctance in driving 
 through them. When we returned the same way, they 
 followed us until we had fairly entered the prairie again. It 
 might be merely Mennonite courtesy, undertaken by idle 
 wings on the part of the busy settlers ; it might be but a 
 butterfly ceremony of sentiment ; or it might be curiosity to 
 see all they could of such strange visitors ; however it was, 
 they accompanied us some distance on our way to the plains. 
 
 On the prairies, bordering a railway track, unwonted sounds 
 recall familiar scenes and sounds in England. As the railway 
 bells riog over the sunny plains (as church bells do at home) 
 it seemed a perpetual Sunday morning, for, instead of our 
 railway screech, the engines there have pleasant-toned bells, 
 which ring on the uninterrupted breezes, catching the distant 
 ear in places where for centuries previously only the yell of 
 the Indian has been heard. 
 
 The Bishop of the Mennonites came with his flock. Fortu- 
 nately for them he understood farming as well as divinity. 
 When hia followers beheld the bare plains to which he had 
 brought them — on which nothing was visible but buffalo grass 
 — their hearts were troubled. " Fear not," said the far-seeing 
 bishop, " in four years all these prairies now waving with 
 grass shall be waving with wheat." And it came to pass even 
 as he had said, and pride and plenty and contentment now 
 dwell with them. The bishop has had planted an avenue of 
 trees — light and graceful they grow — all in a straight line. 
 And what a line ! The avenue is 25 miles long ; so that the 
 most wavering lovers, walking up it, may hope to come to an 
 understanding by the time they reach the end of it. 
 
 Mr. White, the chief of the Topeka and Santa F^ Bailway, 
 made for us a marvellous map of our journey. All the places 
 
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 l<L' 
 
 90 
 
 OOUBTESIBS OF TBAVBL — 
 
 we were to visit, the minnte whep we shonld arrive, the hotels 
 at which we were to stay, the cities at which we were to spend 
 nights, the honz at which we should resume oar journey, the 
 place on the mountains and time when the comet could be 
 best seen, and where the grandest sunrise might be witnessed 
 during our journey of 3,300 miles, were all marked down for us 
 without error. It came to pass, even as it was foretold. This 
 showed a mastery — which surprised us — of the movements 
 and possibilities of travel over such vast tracts of country. 
 One thing I record, because it struck me as expli^ning what I 
 thought praiseworthy, namely, the consideration shown for 
 the convenience and pleasure of settlers in the many cities 
 along their great route. Mr. White said *' his policy was to 
 cause all people dwelling on their lands to speak well of their 
 line." This is plainly good policy ; but there is a great deal 
 of good policy, known to all men, which is never put into 
 practice. 
 
 When at Santa F^ I wrote to Mr. White to acknowledge 
 the opulent courtesies we owed to him. I said what I may 
 repeat here, because what a visitor says personally may be 
 true (as it ought to be) — what he writes he means ; and in 
 that form of expression I stated that while the courtesy of 
 American gentlemen to ladies is a matter of European report, 
 as I knew, yet until I witnessed it I did not know how con- 
 tinuous and refined it was ; in my opinion the countries I had 
 passed through on their line had advantages and resources 
 which no general description made to me had exaggerated. 
 
 When we reached Lawrence University I agreed to visit it 
 with a blank and placid curiosity. To my surprise the presi- 
 dent and several of the professors came down to the carriage 
 to welcome me and my companions as we alighted. As we 
 were ascending to the great hail, the president, in an en- 
 gaging unpremeditated way, said, "We should be glad if you 
 would say a few words to our students." I answered with 
 real consternation, ** What can I say ? Unacquainted with 
 the history of your University acd the characteristics of its 
 studies, and without an idea as to what could pbseibly 
 interest any student in your halls, it stands to reason that I 
 can say nothing which will become me like silence." " Yes, 
 that is modestly put," rejoined the president, "but if you will 
 kindly leave the choice to us between speech and silence, 
 we will take the speech." Seeing that I had to make an 
 address upon something, I answered, " I will do as you are 
 pleased to designate, and as we walk through the museum I 
 
00-OPEBATIVE DISCOUBSB IN LAWBENCE UNIVERSITy. — 91 
 
 will try to imagine what I oan say which may seem relevant 
 to your students." " That cannot be," observed the President, 
 '* for the students are all assembled now, and waiting," and 
 leading me into the hall there were 500 ladies and gentlemen, 
 all seated, expecting an oration from the visitor fresh from 
 the prairies, and who had no more academic ideas in his head 
 than a cowboy. Then came that peculiar rain of cheers, 
 which I heard for the firrit time in the Oomell University. 
 It seemed as thoagh the roof was struck by a thousand shots. 
 I was told afterwards it was made by a peculiar way of 
 striking the hands. The ladies with me took their seats on 
 the dais, when the President introduced me, and I spoke 
 perhaps three-quarters of an hour. Two subjects only came 
 into my mind as I approached the platform. 
 
 One was the advantage to so great a nation as America, 
 of an authentic Guide Book to it, for European use. Among 
 the students before me were many who would be senators in 
 the future, and all, b; reason of the high education received 
 there, would have influence over the fortunes of their country. 
 If they suffered their country to double its population by an 
 unknown and unfit crowd ox foreign immigrants, the American 
 nation would be " o'ermatched, o'ermasteied, and outnum- 
 bered." Besides, for the Government to give no account 
 of their territories, their condition, and resources of their 
 country, was to abandon its reputation to chance report, or in- 
 terested misrepresentation, or to ignorant enthusiasm — the 
 most excusable and the most dangerous of all. The other 
 subject on which I spoke was the preceptive and Material 
 methods of Morality pursued in co-operation, upon which 
 they knew I had elsewhere in their country spoken. In that 
 university the noblest precepts of morality of every nation. 
 Pagan and Christian, were taught them in every classical 
 tongue; and in all the centuries since universities began 
 the same thing has been done ; yet they knew the morality 
 of public men in every country was not much to 
 boast of. Certainly, high-toned personal veracity in politics 
 or commerce was not remarkably diffused. A co-operative 
 society is one which binds itself to act justly in matters of 
 weight or measure; to act honestly in matters of quality, 
 whether any profit accrued or not ; and, if profit did accrue, 
 they undertook to divide it equitably among aU whose custom 
 produced it. The public were so taken by surprise at the 
 promise of equity and truth in trade, that they gave the thing 
 a trial, and when the report was noised abroad that the 
 
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 CHICAGO AT LAST. — 
 
 oo-operators kept good faith, profits were made. The dis- 
 oovery became public that co-operators had made honesty 
 pay. The profits made were acoamalated for its members, 
 who thus acquired money by simply giving orders, 
 and grew rich while they slept. Not by preceptive 
 teaching, but by these material devices of probity and 
 economy we made morality possible by making ic 
 profitable. We kept clear of religion and politics. As in- 
 dividuals we were partisans outside the society, and neutral- 
 ists within it. Neutrality was the source of our unity and 
 our strength. We respected all men's opinions, but asserted 
 none. Thus the majority never triumphed, nor were the 
 minority insulted by imputed inferiority. In America, where 
 personal opinion was more sharply barbed than among us, this 
 policy would be needed if they adventured upon co-operation. 
 Thus, in default of other subjects, I discoursed in the University 
 of Lawrence. Subsequently I was courteously informed that 
 both subjects on which I had spoken were those on which the 
 students wished information. 
 
 In the museum at Lawrence University I saw an image of 
 Indian manufacture of what might have been the first man of 
 Kansas. His inarticulate frame; his staring and inquiring 
 eyes; his open, foolish and expectant mouth; his general 
 look of astonishment and active imbecility, represented the 
 native wonder when knowledge was first invented. At my 
 request the president promised me a photograph of this primi- 
 tive being ; if it arrives in time I intend to adorn my story 
 with it. 
 
 There is nothing so beautiful— perhaps I had (in case I 
 should go there again) better say more beautiful — in Chicago 
 than the pride the people take in their city. If the Chicago 
 people did but add a little civic logic to their other qualities, 
 macadamise their streets, and permit no refuse to lie about, 
 they might better challenge admiration. Cleanliness and 
 sweetness are the graces of a fine city. To put up vast 
 and luxurious hotels, and retain a roadway before them which 
 a oostermouger would not cross if he could help it, is so need- 
 less in a city where they have noiseless tramcars, without 
 horse or engine, propelled by an unseen power underground, 
 moving like a spirit and stopping at will. In a city where 
 great things are never wanting, a visitor does wonder that 
 small things should be impossible. 
 
 It was a great pleasure to learn that there are prudent 
 people in America, as elsewhere, who never speculate save 
 
LAKE VIEW HIGH SCHOOL. — 
 
 08 
 
 with sQch portion of their fortune as they can afford to lose 
 if things go wrong. The mad lines of the poet — 
 
 Be either fean his fate too mooh, 
 
 Or his desert is small, « 
 
 Who dares not pat it to the toaoh 
 To win or lose it all- 
 have, however, more admirers in Chicago than in any other 
 city. 
 
 The fact is the speonlators and adventurers, the parties of 
 capital and enterprise, monopolise public attention in the 
 press as they do more or less in o^iher countries, and shut 
 from sight the solid worth of the great body of the people. 
 The day of most interest to me in Chicago was spent in the 
 Lake View High School, of which Professor A. F. NiaHTiNGALE 
 is principal, who resembled in his capacity of inspiring 
 enthusiasm for excellence that which we honour in some of 
 our great teachers at home. I had met some of the students 
 in society, and judge from what they said as well as from 
 what I saw, that Lake View College was a real school. 
 The building had no mean interest. Unlike the rooms, 
 dreary as malignity could make them, or monastic and dull, 
 which oft in England make learning seem a penitential 
 pursuit — the halls of the High School were spacious, light, and 
 cheerful. The walls were hung with human portraits of men 
 whose fame might be inspiration, and whose history is a part 
 of national education. Myself and friends had the honour to 
 be entertained by the Faculty of the school, and afterwards 
 every opportunity was accorded me to visit the classes, hx one 
 I gave a short history of the oldest picture in England, that 
 of KioHABD II. (500 years old), which hung for centuries in the 
 Chapter House of Westminster Abbey. As it was two years in 
 my house I knew it well. I saw the painted surface removed 
 which wac put on it by Captain Broome, the Parliamentary 
 painter, 150 years ago. No human being living had ever seen, 
 until Captain Broome's obscuring paint was dissolved — the 
 pensive, timorous and unhappy king, whom Sbakspere drew. 
 The colours were as bright and real as when first laid on, as 
 those may see who visit the Jerusalem Chamber. Painted on a 
 panel consisting of three planktf of oak, an inch and half thick, 
 it was yet unwarped. A microscope could not discern where 
 the joining was made. There were carpenters in those days. 
 There was nothing I could say to the historic class in illustra- 
 tion of their studies which could interest them so much as 
 this narrative did. 
 
 <!> i] 
 
 Hi- 
 
 '&{ 
 
 
 MA 
 
 
 
^^1 
 
 04 
 
 SPKRCHKS AT THE HIGH SCHOOL. 
 
 Later I had the pleasure to address the assembled students. 
 Mr. Obablton also spoke. The ladies would have been glad 
 if Mrs. Lbaoh had spoken, but though she makes excellent 
 speeches, she elected to remain a silent observer all our 
 journey. It was a remarkable oration on the '* Power of 
 Music," by Miss Kbttie Little, which I did not imagine for 
 a moment was original, as it was, which led me to describe 
 to the students the characteristics of Oobdbn, Lord Bbaoons- 
 FiBLD, Mr. RoBBUGK, and Mr. BaiaHT, and the methods of 
 thought which led to their style of expression and the effects 
 they produced, so far as those points were instructive or 
 suggestive to students of public speaking. The explanation 
 engaged their attention as a similar one would ours, if any 
 person described to us for the first time the way in which 
 Webstbr and Clay, Calhoun, and Wendell Philups made 
 for themselves names of renown. 
 
 ' 
 
 e: 
 
 ' \ 
 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 f'l 
 
 a night with the philosophers of OHICAaO. — ON the WAT 
 TO WASHINGTON. — AT THE PBBSIOENTS' OHUECH. 
 
 Interviewers have seldom had a better time than they had 
 with me in Chicago. My gracious and hospitable host wel- 
 comed all who came to visit me, and the intervals between 
 questions and answers were filled up with '* mission grapes " 
 and 'Champagne. So whatever conclusion the interviewer 
 came to, he came to it pleasantly. The Jesuit missionaries 
 either brought a grape with them, or cultivated one, Tvbich 
 bears the name of " mission grape " — the sweetest grape to 
 be had out there. If this was the " mission " of the Jesuits, 
 to set these grapes going, it was a good one. My host men- 
 tioned one thing which seems to me worth repeating, namely, 
 "he had found, in his pretty wide experience of men and 
 
RUIN AND PROQRESB.- 
 
 90 
 
 It 
 
 basineBS on railways in England, Canada, and America, that 
 persons really willing to do anything in the way of honest 
 work oonld always get it to do." As Mr. Charlton is not at 
 all a man of illnsions. and his sympathies being with the an- 
 fortnnate and stri :gling, for whom he would prefer to UnA 
 excases where it was possible, this result of his clear-sighted 
 experience is instrnctive. The above saying I understood to 
 mean— not that anyone could find the precise place he 
 wished, or the sort of employment he preferred, but — that if 
 a man had industry and willingness in his bones, and a taste 
 for honest work, he could always find something to do, and 
 could lie in wait with it until some'ihiDg better floated by 
 him. 
 
 The other day I saw a letter in a journal of repute signed 
 "Ontario," giving a very modest, candid, and sensible account 
 of the fruit products and climate of Canada. Yet I would 
 not hare admitted an anonymous letter into columns con- 
 sulted by settlers, without the name and address of the 
 writer, in order that some authority should be afforded to the 
 reader. In travelling I trusted nothing I could not verify, 
 and what could not be verified, wherever I could, I asked to 
 have it explained. 
 
 For instance, I asked " If I come upon cases of shooting 
 such as I see daily, does it matter? Does it interrupt 
 business ? The answer was, " Except you get in the way of 
 a chance bullet, it need not concern you. For instance, the 
 other day prominent citizen No. 1 shot, at sight, prominent 
 citizen No. 2 ; when prominent citizen No. 6 (a friend of No. 2) 
 appearing on the scene, shot prominent citizen No. 1. He 
 having some strength left and a bullet to spare, took aim at 
 prominent citizen No. 3 and shot him. Thus," added my 
 informant, "that lucky community got rid of three prominent 
 ruffians by their own agency." The shooting part of a city 
 is always its worst part, and cases of self -extermination 
 which alarm the stranger, are very differently regarded by the 
 citizens. 
 
 Failures in America are not always what they seem to us. 
 An explanation Mr. Charlton gave me is one which would 
 never occur to a less experienced observer than he. " People," 
 he said, " look forward to a crash as giving honest men a 
 chance. Speculators who take land, and lock it up to sell at 
 high prices, have at last to sell it to pay mortgages. If they 
 only get for it what they gave for it, they consider themselves 
 ruined. Then small capitalists get a chance of buying land 
 
 / 
 
 > 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 iiii 
 
 ■J 
 
06 
 
 LKCTURE ON COOPERATION IN CHICAGO — 
 
 u 
 
 I 
 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 h «l 
 
 when the price has ooDie down. The crash is a gain to them, 
 and workmen always have good wages when * ruin ' comes." 
 I never knew before that ' crashes' and * ruin ' among Bpeoo> 
 lators are signs of progress. 
 
 Among the EngUshmen in Ohicago Is a man of remarkable 
 energy and skill as a mechanician, Mr. William Babaoamath, 
 His ingenioas inventions relate to economising heat in steam 
 boilers, if I remember it rightly. He has a mannfactory in 
 the suburbs of Chicago. His wish was that a Lecture on Co- 
 operation should be delivered in Chicago ; and accordingly it 
 came to pass. Mr. John Dunn, the English Yice-Consul, 
 presided, and made an interesting speech. The time was too 
 brief for so large a city as Chicago to be made aware of the 
 lecture, so it did not realise any profit; it was the other 
 thing which was realised ; nevertheless the papers recorded 
 that the subject was propounded, and Mr. Babaoanath, with 
 scrupulous honour, paid all expenses, including mine, which 
 he might reasonably have ignored, seeing that it was at least 
 as much my duty as his to incur propagandist loss. 
 
 By the courtesy of Frofassor Van Bdben Dbnslow, President 
 of the Philosophical Society, I delivered an address before 
 the members. The President is a sagacious writer on Com- 
 muuism and other forms of progress. In one instance he has 
 taken a famous passage in the works of Thomas Paine, and 
 given the most masterly refutation of it extant ; without 
 showing in his words or in his miod, any enmity against the 
 great agitator whom he confutes. Philosophers are said 
 to be above sublunary things, which is true of the Chicago 
 philosophers, for their hall is in the skies. The building con- 
 taining it is higher than any structure ought to be, and their 
 leoture-room is at the top of it. The stars, I saw, could look 
 in without stooping. The skylights permitted the audience 
 to become acquainted with the points of the compass. While 
 speaking I was blown into the south- west corner ; I do not 
 mean by a gale but by a steady blast. The President alone 
 maintained his position, in accordance with a bye-law 
 of the society to that effect. It did seem to me a touch of 
 real civilisation for Chicago to have a Philosophical Society, 
 and that if its prominent citizens and mighty merchants 
 would, just for the pride of the thing, supply it with funds, 
 it would be a memorable thing. A tax of one cent a thousand 
 on the pigs killed in the great city would enable the philoso- 
 phers to meet on a lower floor. In spur-of-the-moment 
 thinking, it seems to me that there were twenty small towns 
 
in England, whiob, if sold, wonldjhardly bny as many streets 
 in Chicago, which towns yet have each a Philosophical 
 Society, which has its library, laboratory, leotnre-room, and 
 serene chambers where new troth is bom in dignity and 
 comfort. 
 
 The subject chosen for me was " Migration " — simply that 
 and nothing more. What did it mean ? The migration of 
 birds — of men — or ideas ? No one can tell why birds migrate. 
 They do not go one by one as men do. They go co-operatively 
 as men ought ; and they know where to go to, which few men V 
 
 do. They need no Oaide Book. Ideas migrate very slowly. 
 I gave instances in which the London and North-Western 
 Railway took forty years to acquire an obvious idea in their 
 own interest ; and another in which the lawyers of Chancery 
 Lane took a longer period to agree about a matter which gave 
 them daily discomfort. We, therefore, had not in En^ ind 
 a large stock of ideas on hand to export. Next I described 
 the qualities of certain men — of Mill, of Mazzini, of George 
 Henbt Lewes, the husband of Oboroe Eliot, who was 
 intellectually the bravest man I ever knew. When he 
 accepted a principle he accepted all that belonged to it. The 
 praise of courage did not apply to him. He had, intellectually, 
 qualities higher than that. Courage means facing danger by 
 force of will, danger which yon fear. If a thing was right he 
 did it. Nothing came into his mind to the contrary. He 
 bad in his mind something loftier than intrepidity. You 
 never had to say to him he ought to do a thing which was a 
 sequence of a principle he held. He did it of his own motion. 
 This is the account of Mr. Lewes which I gave to Oeorob 
 Eliot at the time of Mr. Lewes's death. ,.. 
 
 It is not necessary to cite here the further examples I gave, 
 all for the one purpose of pointing out that there did not 
 appear to have been any great migration of such men into 
 the United States. Such qualities of men still abound, as 
 America might know if the conditions of their recognition 
 were better known. This knowledge a national Guide Book 
 would advance. Migration is a necessity of our time ; not a 
 migration of conquest, as in days of old, but a migration of / 
 
 progress; and co-operative migration would be the highest 
 form of it. 
 
 Thereupon debate arose really worthy of a philosophical 
 society. Each speaker spoke well and knew what he was 
 talking of, none spoke long, each spoke vnth point. It was as 
 pertinent and vigorous as a debate at a quarterly meeting of 
 
 
 I 
 
 I:?'! 
 
 
 h;^^- 
 

 / 
 
 / 
 
 4 
 
 the Wholesale Society. The Chicago speakers, of ooorse, 
 had a lari^er topio and wore able to briog national knowledge 
 to bear apon it. One speaker said they wanted no more 
 immigrants in the country. I answered that the best way 
 to stop people coming was to pablish a guide book, and 
 say so, and that the book was for the use alone of 
 those who were in it, who were insaffloiently informed 
 of its resonroes. Another philosopher admitted that good 
 settlers would be an advantage if they came ; but the 
 wrong sort mostly took ship and arrived. Clearly, I could 
 urge, this was only to be remedied by official information as 
 to who were wanted. An experienced debater contended that 
 every State expected to be described as the best of all States, 
 and no Government would dare to say it was not. I answered 
 the Government might easily say each State was the best by 
 not saying it at aU. A guide book had only to say that, in 
 the opinion of every State, there was none like it, and therefore 
 that might be taken for granted, without saying it over again. 
 One speaker who had taken malaria by mistake, felt sure 
 no State would tell the ratio of disease and death in it. He 
 had overlooked that this is done, and exhaustively done, in 
 medical statistics of the States, and need only to be cited in 
 its place, in any account of a State. Another suspicious 
 speaker declared that the truth, as I wanted it, was not 
 known, and would not be told if it was. All the while each 
 preceding and successive speaker proved, in what he said, 
 that it was known, and proved that it could be known 
 by telling it himself. The most vehement and eloquent of all 
 the philosophers contended, in many forms of argument, that 
 nothing was to be trusted, and nobody was to be believed ; 
 and I was obliged to point out that it was difficult to determine 
 what degree of weight was to be attached to the representa- 
 tions of this speaker, since while maintaining that nobody 
 was to be believed, he had ondtted to point out on what 
 principle he was to be believed himself. President Dbnslow, 
 in closing the debate, said he thought that the necessity and 
 possibility of a National Guide Book had been made out. 
 Of course this brief report does ill justice to the speakers, 
 since so much is necessarily omitted ; nor is their position and 
 authority described, which lent weight to their words. 
 
 The handsome, spacious, wainscoted walls of the Union 
 Depdt of the Chicago and Alton Railroad surpass in richness the 
 interiors of the Parliament Houses of Washington and Ottowa. 
 The well-designed and massive brass railing, leading to the 
 
 M 
 
• 
 
 Alton oarrlages exoeedB anythiog of the kind I have seen 
 anywhere. It wonld be a new Batisfaction to live near that 
 Htaircase. 
 
 If any travellex is ignorant of the advantage of an 
 aooompliflhed conductor, let him go from Chicago to Wash- 
 ington by the Baltimore and Ohio railroad, and get Mr. 
 Lord to assign Mr. Bond to accompany him. His lively 
 portrait is to be seen in the rich, butterfly-covered guide 
 book of the line, as also other portraits of celebrities of the 
 road, who make the trains bright by their humour and 
 courtesy. In England, the conductor is shut up in a distant 
 box, and the passenger in another, and they seldom communi- 
 cate, save in a collision, when thrown into each others com- 
 pany. An English conductor is like a clergyman locked up 
 in the vestry, when he ought to be addressing his con* 
 gregation. In America the conductor is always in the 
 church, that is, in the cars, and the passengers are 
 always moving up and down the aisles. We had, indeed, 
 been long on our journey between Ohicago and Washington, 
 when Mr. Bond came "on board" and showed us all things 
 ever after. We rode over torrents, through rocks, and amid 
 new kinds of mountain scenery of verdure and glory, which I 
 had not before seen. We went by the Devil's Olen, a mighty 
 valley of such bewildering intricacy and winding beauty that 
 one could not but admire the taste of the devil in selecting 
 it. At the same time, if he would but take up bin abode 
 there it wonld be well for mankind, for, once well in that 
 wild labyrinthine glen, I do not think that even that experi- 
 enced adventurer could find his way out again. 
 
 We took farewell of the tree-dad mountains, of the Cheat 
 river, where craft lay like midges, as we looked down upon 
 them, of the miles of verdant wilderness through which we 
 rode, of Cumberland and its hotel, where we were royally 
 entertained by arrangement, under direction of Mr. 0. ^v. 
 LoBD, of the Baltimore and Ohio BaUroad, to whom we owed 
 the glory of that journey. Again there fell to us the brilliant 
 hospitality of Colonel iNasssoLL's household at Washington. 
 
 The church where most of the old Presidents worshipped 
 lies on one side of Lafayette-square, not far from Colonel 
 Inobbsoll's door. For myself, I went by choice to the church 
 where the morality of Presidents was formed. The galleries 
 lie under three arches, the altar under a fourth, and a dome 
 surmounts them all, with a lantern light in the centre. The 
 galleries have sweet recesses, with a window at either end as 
 
 
100 
 
 AT THE presidents' CHURCH. — 
 
 well as at the side. Thns gleams of sacred light fall npon 
 the prayer book, or note book in which acarions hearer might 
 record the faHing words of the preacher, as I did. The English 
 ohnrch service was nsed, bat wisely abbreviated. There were 
 two olergymei in white snrplioes. One with a black scarf 
 (which distlngaished him from the other whose black scarf 
 went across his back) preached without changing his white 
 garments, or leaving the altar ; and not getting into a polpit 
 (in which no preacher has dignity), bat standing before a 
 desk by the communion table, spoke with clearness, distinct- 
 ness, and luroe, bat without passion, holy or otherwise. 
 The main featnre of the sermon was the extent to which 
 heretics were in the mind of the preacher. The testimonies 
 of Mill, Bousseau, and Bbnan were cited. The impression 
 imparted to the hearer was that Ohristianity rested on 
 heretical reasons, which stood ont in his discoarso bright and 
 picturesque. They stood in the discourse as the rock of the 
 Church. Yet the preacher argued against his own rock. 
 Dr. Percival, the preacher, spoke, like Dr. Lorimer on board 
 the " Scythia," with a hard, iron, momentum which beat the 
 understanding of the hearer down. He ran over the hearer 
 as though he was p rail, not carrying him in the same tk^ain. 
 But he did not shook you by abrupt transitions as Dr. 
 Lorimer did. But there was other preaching that day in 
 Washington far more remarkable and impressive. We went 
 in the afternoon tio the church of the coloured people. As 
 the colonel's carriage drove up to the door we had many 
 proofs of their regard for him. We were welcome hearers 
 coming from his house, and wondrous were what we saw and 
 heard. 
 
WANDEBIMOS ABOUT WASHINGTON. — 
 
 101 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 WANDERING ABOUT WASHINGTON. — VISIT TO A OOLOURED CHURCH. — 
 A REAL COLOURED SERMON. — FREDERICK DOUGLAS, ORATOR OF 
 THE COLOURED RACE. — INTERVIEWS AT THE STATE HOUSE, 
 
 Perhaps it was the colonel's coloared coachman, iotelligeut 
 and of good presence, who was a favonrite in Washington 
 avenues, \^o made some secret sign to his own people, which 
 oansed ns to be received with great courtesy at the cljapel 
 door, by two white-teethed preachers, who looked as though 
 they could bite a doctrine clean through. 
 
 The two negro ohu^ches in Washington are handsomer, 
 cleaner, brighter, more cheerful structures than any Wesleyan 
 or Congregationalist chapel in England was some years ago. 
 They surpass any Ludy Huntingdon chapel excant now. One 
 of these two churches is held by the humbler, the other by the 
 more pretentious and better cultivated class of negroes. This 
 term " negro " is one jhat may be usdd in England, it being a 
 term of interest and respect here. Bat in America it is deemed 
 offensive, and the negro is spoken of as a " coloured " person. To 
 call him a '* black " would be resented. I preferred the humbler 
 class of worshippers. My daughter and Mrs. Leach went also 
 to the second church in the evening, where piety was more 
 conventional and instructed. I preferred studying coloured 
 religion in its natural state. 
 
 The church we all went to was light and spacious. Both 
 men and women walked in with more ease, grace, and 
 independence of manner than can be seen in the same class 
 of English religionists. They sat or reclined on their seats, 
 without any of the stiffened terror nevr* absent from assem- 
 blies of white worshippers. There vrn-:s all the difference we 
 see between customers walking into a co-operative store which 
 they own, and walking into the shop of another, where you 
 must buy something, or you feel mean. Republicanism had 
 touched even piety with its gracious freedom and self-respect. 
 These men and women had mostly been slaves, but they had 
 lost entirely the slave-mark of hurry. In this quality of 
 deliberateness the coloured people are more gentlemen and 
 
 
 8 
 
102 
 
 VISIT TO A COLOURED CHURCH. — 
 
 ladies than the white people. Many oi: the dusky believers 
 were gentlemen in dress and manner of walking, and stepped 
 np the aisle like a niember of Parliament elected for a second 
 time. I sat near a magnificent negress ; she wore a small- 
 spotted, close-fitting dress ; she reclined listening, like a hand- 
 some tigress, volaptnons as Cleopatra, with features as fine 
 as they are depicted in Ellis's " Csesar in Egypt." Not 
 far from her was a yonng girl of Hiogular grace of form ; 
 a dusky beauty, wich the dreamy face of a gipsy. A rich 
 silk shawl lay upon her shoulders, denoting affluence or 
 extreme taste ; it so w 11 became her small and sensuous 
 figure of careless loveliness, passion, and languor. There were 
 men there not less remarkable in their way. I observed that 
 those who came in late quietly dropped into seats which were 
 vacant and nearest, while at the presidents' church in the 
 morning, gentlemen came in when the sermon was near ended, 
 and yet pushed fornvard to some pew in the front, to show that 
 they owned :t, put their heads into their hats io pray ostenta- 
 tiously, beginning their service when it was three-parts over. 
 
 The singing in the coloured church was most strange. It 
 was a trill always rising in energy. Each person sang in a 
 tune and way of his or her own. Four hundred persons each 
 singing in different cadences, low and high, is not to be 
 described. One venerable short man, with a voice like an 
 eight-pounder, drowned all other notes at will. Beyond any 
 man I heard he was master of the assembly. His voice was 
 as the thunder of the heavens to the cheers of a street crowd. 
 
 After singing anybody prayed, and prayer sprang to fluent 
 lips, and in far better taste and expression than we some- 
 times hear in English congregations. The fiaal appeal to 
 God with which the prayers ended wag in a wild musical 
 tone, that seemed able to pierce the skies and loach the 
 throne of heaven. One good-looking, vigorous young man, 
 had the moat perfect, most enviable prairie voice I have ever 
 heard. It was a travelling voice. No other term dcHcribes 
 it. It sounded as though it passed through the roof, and you 
 heard it as it seemed to pass on through the clouds. It was 
 strong without effort. Its tones seemed apart from the 
 speaker, and its melody never tired upon the ear. It was 
 like the cry of " Excelsior! " in Longfellow's famous poem. 
 
 The preacher who conducted the Services was beyond the 
 middle age, and of sedate, honest aspect. His reading of 
 the Scripture wtis the only religious reading I heard on this 
 visit to America. It was slow, distinct, impressive, earnest. 
 
A REAL COLOURED SGBMON. 
 
 108 
 
 I of 
 
 liis 
 
 now busbed, now load, now a cadence of alarm. His tone 
 changed with the sense, with natural dramatic passion, as 
 though the reader comprehended the words of Heaven, and 
 was reading them aloud for the first time. It was not like 
 the reading I had heard in the morning in the Presidents' 
 church, where the lessons were read with what neemed to 
 me a cold propriety, in which all the tragic pathos of the 
 sacred stary was frozen in the preacher's throat; it was 
 earnestness in a refrigerator. 
 
 The sermon was in keeping with the reading. The 
 coloured gospel was not bad — peculiar, but seldom extrava- 
 gant. Its discernment and candour would surprise any 
 Eng.ieh hearer. *' My brethren," said the preacher, •' Christ 
 bid ;,3 love our enemies. David was a man after God's own 
 heavt, but David did not do this." The preacher said this, 
 and left it as a thing to be noted, and not to be explained away. 
 " ^^e should! have clean hands," he remarked. " Clean hands 
 do not mean hands merely clean accordingto nature, it means 
 clean souls." The conclasion of his sermon was an exhorta- 
 tion, after the manner of preachers, but in the vein of his 
 race. " My brethren, pray ! You can telegraph to God. 
 You can telegram right away. The man is always at the 
 other end. You can telegram at midnight, the man at the 
 wheel is always awake. Always awake, my brothers and 
 sisters. Pray ! brothers, pray I The office is always open, 
 the man is always at the wheel. Brothers and sisters telegram 
 right away." The preacher had got his figures of speech a 
 little mixed. He was thinking of the ship when he spoke of 
 the " man at the wheel." Soill he managed his simile pretty 
 effectively, and the comparison between the speed of a tele- 
 gram and a prayer was creditable to his powers of illustration. 
 He was quite understood. Some laughed, some smiled, some 
 made audible assent, especially two^ rows of dark sisters 
 dressed in resplendent blue dresses — members of the "Society 
 of Moses." 
 
 The way in whiub the culleution was made was an improve- 
 ment upon our way of sending the box round. The minister 
 said that so much was wanted for the purposes of the chapel, 
 and asked the congregation to subscribe it. Whereupon men 
 and women arose in different parts of the church, and pro- 
 cef'ded to a table before the platform, and laid upon it what 
 they had to give. This went on for some time — there was 
 no begging — each worshipper appeared to consider that if it 
 was worth while worshipping at all, it was worth while 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 SI 
 
104 
 
 A NIQHT WITH FBEDERICK DOUGLAS, 
 
 il 
 
 supporting his place of worship. The ladies with me went 
 ap to the table and gave money for themselves and for me. 
 If I go into ohapel or ohorch for ontiosity or edification, I 
 consider that I am nnder obligation to contribute towards 
 the cost of what I so far value by being present. 
 
 One day Colonel Inoebsoll, having business in the court 
 where Quite au was tried, took me to see it. It was a large, 
 plain, uninteresting room. A young man was being tried for 
 murder. He sat on a form with a sister and two friends 
 among the people. I could not see why he did not walk 
 away. On seeing the judge who tried Guiteau, a great lawyer 
 who praised the patience of the judge, told me that the 
 time spent in disposing of that case was honourable to 
 America. I answered that in England we could not under- 
 stand how a country in which men were shot at sight should 
 waste twelve months in hanging the murderer. 
 
 What I most valued that morning was Colonel iNaBRsoLL's 
 taking me to the Provost-Marshal's office, to see Fbedebick 
 Douglas. It is an honour to America that such an office 
 should be given to a coloured gentleman. I had been to New 
 Bedford, at night, to see the river where Douglas worked as 
 a slave until he was twenty-three years old. Afterwards the 
 colonel gave a dinner that I might meet Douglas, and we 
 drank (on that night only) champagne of finer quality 
 than I had before tasted in America, in honour of the 
 greatest anti- slavery orator among coloured men. And 
 many were the incidents (not soon to be forgotten) which 
 Douglas told me, which, had I not exceeding brevity in 
 \iew, I should relate. I also met Mr. Douglas's sous — 
 fine, manly, intelligent men. Mr. Douglas thought that 
 the coloured people might be regarded as not a bad race, as 
 races go in these days. They had had no schooling, no 
 literature of inspiration ; no fine arts existed among them to 
 form their taste ; yet they have the qualities which make a 
 people of no mean promise. For myself, I may say that the 
 coloured people, having regard to their self-possession and 
 deliberateness of manner, seemed to me a royal raos 
 as compared with the excited white people who stampede 
 after a fortune, contract disease in getting it, drop with 
 a spasm into the grave, without having looked at the 
 world into which they have been projected in a mistake. 
 Besides, no one could look at Douglas, v ith his lion face and 
 kingly mane of hair, without seeing in him what he is — the 
 leader of the coloured race. He speaks less frequently now 
 
than in earlier days of strength, bat when some great qnestibn 
 of the freedom and eqaality of his race ariaes, it may be said 
 of him, as of Wendell Phillips, or Oolonel Ingebsoll, in the 
 fine lines of Lord Lyttom — 
 
 Hie royal eloqnenoe paya in sUte 
 A oeremonioni viBit to deb«te. 
 
 Having suggested in the last chapter that twenty English 
 towns would fetch at auction less than twenty streets in 
 Chicago, I may mention that since saying so, the sea coast 
 town of Aberayron, Cardiganshire, has been offered for sale. 
 For its houses, containing a population of 2,000 souls, and 
 buildings — £24,000 were offered. Certainly an ordinary street 
 in Chicago would fetch more. Whether Aberayron has a 
 philosophical society is not said. Of that in Chicago I ought 
 to mention that Miss Cabolinb Smith is its "Becording 
 Secretary ;" bebides, there are four other lady philosopheresses 
 holding office. No EngUsh philosophica? society known to 
 me has lady philosophers attached to it. 
 
 Oolonel R. J. Hinton, who commanded a black regiment in 
 the war, and who was a visitor at Rochdale when the Central 
 Store was opened, I found editor of the Washington Gazette, 
 with no abatement of that adventurous enthulsiasm which 
 has carried him through so many enterprises. A volume by 
 him on Arizona, with illuetrations, is the best I saw in the 
 country on that far-away and strange region. 
 
 General Eaxon, head of the department of education, 
 took valued interest in the Guide Book, which was the main 
 object of my visit to Washington. That patient courtesy 
 (Id there any test of courtesy like patience?) of Generid 
 Eaton, and the wonderful museum of all the educational 
 books and devices of the world, which he showed to us in 
 Washington, dwell still in my mind. 
 
 The official communications with the Governments of 
 Washington and Ottawa I have placed in the hands of Mr. 
 Gladstone, with my report concerning both Canada and 
 America, and can only describe them here. Previous to 
 leaving England, I received a letter from the Duke of Abqtll, 
 whom I had informed of my intended visit to Ottawa ; and 
 Sir Chablbs Dilkb did me the favour of giving me a letter of 
 introduction to the Hon. L. Sackville West, our ambassador 
 at Washington. Before setting out for Canada I sent a 
 memorial to the Government of that country, which Six 
 John Macdonald acknowledged by a letter to England. At 
 the same time, I sent a copy of the memorial to the Marquis 
 
 pi 
 
 m 
 
 
 'in 
 
 
 
 
 ^A 
 
106 
 
 INTERVIEWS AT THE STATE HOUSE. — 
 
 of LoRNE, and to the Hon. J. H. Pope, Minister of Agricultnre. 
 Sir Charles Dilke did me the favour of transmitting my 
 memorial on the SQbjeot of a Guide Book to Mr. Secretary 
 Frelinohuysen, at Washington, and a copy was forwarded 
 to the British Embassy, that the English Minister might 
 be aware of its parport, as he wonld be ture to be consulted 
 thereupon. The memorial included, in each case, a plan of 
 the proposed Guide Book, detailing the kind of iuformation 
 wanted. With these documents there were forwarded three 
 volumes of the Lord Clarendon "Reports upon the Condition 
 of the Working Classes Abroad," which Earl Granville, of the 
 Foreign Office, was good enough to forward to America, and 
 Lord Kimberlby, of the Colonial Office, to Canada. For these 
 books — no longer to be purchased — I was indebted to Lord 
 Salisbury, who kindly ordered them to be supplied to me 
 when he was at the Foreign Office. The Hon. Mr. West was 
 more than courteous in his interest in the work which brought 
 me to Washington. Concurring in the object of it, and 
 believing that an authentic Guide Book would be of great 
 value to intending Settlers who might go from England to 
 the United States, he kindly vo^untered to represent the 
 case — put in my memorial io the American Government — in 
 my absence. 
 
 I had the honour of an interview with Mr. Secretary 
 Frelinghuysen. The absence of the hon. gentleman from 
 the capital had prevented his examining the memorial in his 
 office, to which he promised to give attention, as he did 
 courteously to the explanations I made of its nature and 
 objects. Mr. John Davies, Acting Secretary in the Home 
 Department, was himself entirely in favour of an accredited 
 Guide Book, and had himself heretofore independently pro- 
 moted the publication of such a work. Mr. Wm. Hunter, 
 Second Assistant Secretary of the same department, a per- 
 manent official of many years' experience, expressed himself 
 as not less convinced of the advantage of the proposed work. 
 During the time I was at Washington, President Arthur was 
 occupied on State business in New York, but on his return I 
 had the honour to receive a letter from him, informing me 
 that the subject in which I was interested should receive 
 his attention. One day ere long this may occur. In a 
 republic, the chariot of progress often dashes furiously along ; 
 at other times its wheels drag heavily, as though they were 
 the wheels of Pharoah, and had got into the troughs of the 
 Dead Sea again. 
 
A HEMABKABLE MUNICIPAL VOLUME. 
 
 107 
 
 Though engaged in the great law case preyionely mentioned, 
 Colonel Ingebsoll devoted time to accompanying me to the 
 State House, and introduoing me to members of the Govern- 
 ment. On other days I was again indebted to the courtesy of 
 General Mussey for similar service. To the general I was 
 also indebted for a copy of a municipal and sanitary volume 
 upon Washington, more ingeniously bound than usual with a 
 volume containing maps* Separate maps show the streets, 
 the paved and unpaved, the trees, lamps, telegraph offices, 
 police offices, underground services of water, gas, and drain- 
 age ; other maps show the quarters where disease prevails, 
 what kinds of disease, and the proportion of deaths among 
 white people and coloured people, and further things of the 
 first moment and relevance, enabling a stranger to see, 
 wherever he may take up quarters, the degree of peril he 
 has to look to, or security he may depend upon. This work 
 is an annual volun:e in Washington. No Dublin, nor Edin- 
 burgh, nor London, nor any town or city in England has any 
 such volume, nor has it entered into the heart of any rate- 
 payers to demand it, nor any town council to issue it. 
 
 fi 
 
 .,11 
 
 i 
 
 «i 
 
 r 
 
 [e 
 [e 
 la 
 
108 
 
 A LITTLK ORATOBL»S IN BLUB SILK.- 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 A UTTLB ORATORESS IN BLUE BILK. — THE FOUNDER OF FLORENCE. 
 — A CO-OPERATOR OF THE OLD SCHOOL. — INCIDENTS AND SOEMEB 
 IN SPRINGFIELD. — NEW BEDFORD LECTURES. — PLEASANT DATS IN 
 PROVIDENCE. — A QUESTIONINQ RECEPTION. 
 
 Florence was to me as bright as ever. I met Mr. Lille y 
 again, the most genial treasurer in the world, who is chief 
 parser of the Cosmian Hall, and a frequent writer in Liberal 
 papers. I spoke again in the Hall, and visited the Sunday 
 schools. The Springfield Republican had a paragraph 
 announcing that "a horse car will leave Northampton 
 for Florence at 1-15 on the Sunday" of my address 
 there. Mr. and Mrs. Spencer, who conduct the services in 
 the hall and classes in the school, are both known as public 
 advocates of reput> . In the morning I took a seat among the 
 scholars, where I could watch the readings and recitations 
 of the elder students ; when all at once a pretty little girl 
 dressed in blue silk, walked quietly towards me, and made me 
 a charming little speech of welcome in the name of the school. 
 Had she risen like a little Venus from the (deal) sea on 
 which she stood, I could not have been more surprised. It 
 was alone, because the sun shone so bright on the snow of 
 Florence, that I bad strolled out and looked in at the schools. 
 Of course I had to make a speech to the students, little and 
 large, but I did not acquit myself half so well as the little 
 orator in blue silk. 
 
 At night we were accorded a reception at the Cosmian 
 Hall. There were several hundreds of people there. My 
 daughter, Mrs. Leaoh, and myself sat on a dais. Things are 
 done in great state in Florence city. All ended by my having 
 to make a speech upon everything which I knew, which, 
 happily for those present, was not much ; so, without much 
 distress, relief came to them by pure exhaustion of ideas on 
 my part. Fortunately Mr. Lillby and Mr. Hill, my host, 
 had spoken, so that a pleasant impression of festivity pre- 
 vailed in the minds of the meeting. 
 
THE FOUNDEB OF FLOREKOB. — 
 
 109 
 
 Afterwards I vioiced Mr. Samuel L. Hill, the chief founder 
 of Florence. He was a man of good stature, of good forehead, 
 aud of impressive connteoanoe la the middle of this century 
 lie had been a chief leader and promoter of a sooial com- 
 munity in the neighbourhood of Florence, wbioh has an 
 instructive history. He subsequently acted upon the high 
 priuoiple of associative life which he professed. He sub- 
 scribed $20,000 towards the erection of the Oosmian 
 Hall, in Florence, and subscribed $1,500 a y^ar to the 
 support of the preacher. A house he had built for himself he 
 gave up to be used as a " Kinder Garten " school for children. 
 The upper room, with two bay-windows looking over verdant 
 gardens, was very beautifal. It was well supplied with 
 means of instruction. The teachers resided in the house, 
 and all the establishment was sapported by Mr. Hill's 
 generosity. In the winter, when snow fell, he sent a large, 
 light wagon from the farm, which went round to the homes 
 of the little pupils. When school was over this wagon came 
 for them and again left each at home. The morning wagon, 
 gathering clean-faced, rosy children, and driving them laughing 
 from house to house, until it was full of little kindergarteners, 
 was a sight as pretty as a prayer. Mr. Hill was a Qaaker, 
 but marrying a bright-eyed Baptist, he joined that Church, 
 and became deacon at Willimantie, Connecticut. He set him- 
 self against slavery in its dangerous days, bat he was soon 
 "admouidhed tbat the church could not be used to address 
 the people on that subject." He was afterwards found with 
 those engaged in the bitterest fight for the freedom of the 
 negro. His philanthropy was not sentimental at on^ corner 
 only, h was of an all-round, robust quality. He was also for 
 the welfare of all in his employ. He wanted every man to 
 be permanently well off. He assisted them to get houses and 
 land of their own. It has been said lately in the Springfield 
 Sunday Republican, that probably half the buildings in 
 Florence came to be thus owned by his aid. He owned 
 himself the steam silk mills of Nonotuok. He was a co- 
 operator of the old school — who have nearly all died out. 
 He gave $25,000 to a fund to enable workmen to get houses, 
 and $27,000 to erect a great School House. To the school 
 superintendent he paid $1,000 a year, in order that he might 
 receive $2,000 salary, as he well knew that there is no folly 
 like that of stinginess and parsimony towards those whose 
 brains you need to do good work. In all things he was a 
 co-operator, with the spirit of a gentleman, who knew that 
 
 
 %■ 
 
 5-"' I 
 

 110 
 
 TUK HOLYOKKS OK MASSACBUHSKTTS. — 
 
 knowledge w.a a good investmoDt, and took oare that all 
 who laboured for him by hand or brain had '* a good time 
 of it." His merit was that he did not look for profit, but for 
 improvement ; or rather that wan the profit he had in view. 
 He lived himself in what we should call a plain villa renidenoe. 
 I think, with pleasure, that I spent some time with him the 
 last night he passed in it. He set out next day for Citron- 
 ville, Alabama, for change of air, but died on his arrival there. 
 His age was 75. Many were the fugitives from slavery of body, 
 of capital, and of opinion who had found shelter in his hoRpitable 
 house in the evil days of progress. These were " actions of 
 the just," which " smell sweet and bloHsom in the dust." 
 
 I and my friends were the guests of his son, Mr. A. Q. Hill. 
 It was he who, observing in 1879 I had some repressed aspi- 
 rations towards perfection, remarked that " he supposed I 
 did not want to bo an angel at starting out." Mr. Hill has 
 sent me a letter describing the death of his father, which 
 was calm and reguauc like his life. From the fine spirit in 
 which he speaks of his father's career and example, I conclude 
 that the lustre of it will be sustained in his sou. 
 
 In Springfield, where a company not only light the sity but 
 warm it, laying heat on as wo do water, we were the guests 
 of Mr. Seth Hunt, through whom I had the honour to make 
 the acquaintance of some of the principal citizens, one of 
 whom did me the service of showing me the original Book of 
 Laws of Massachusetts, bearing the autographs of " Captain 
 Elizar Holiok " (who was Town Clerk of Springfield, 1660- 
 1676) and of " John Holyokb, 1677 " (who was Town Clerk, 
 1676- 1680. I observed that Captain Holiok, whose name is 
 always given as " Elizur," was spelled by him •• Elizar." It was 
 from this Captain Holyokg, one of the founders and fighting 
 pioneers of Spriogfield, that Mount Holyoke took its name. 
 His immediate successor restored, the y to his name. When at 
 Providence. Dr. Channing's son (whom I had the good fortune 
 to meet) told mo- that the arms of the Cambridge Holyokes 
 are holly and oak, so that the a was in the name. The local 
 newspapers cited that I had explained that the name was 
 Druidical, and meant •• holy oak." Mr. Seth Hunt showed 
 me historical evidence that Elizur Holyokb, who gave the 
 name to the mountain, came from Tamworth, in Warwick- 
 shire, the same county in which I was born. 
 
 One addition to Springfield since I saw it last, was a bronze 
 statue of one of the Puritan-fighting-pioneer founders of the 
 city. The statue is stalwart, vigorous, and lifelike. The 
 
early hero bears npon him a mnsket, au he uses a farming 
 implement. In thoce days the farmer had to be ready to 
 fi(;ht as he tilled bifl ground. The Paritans of Oonneotiout 
 did not pay for their lands as Pknn did, and had to pay for 
 them with their blood. The monament stands in the corner 
 of the square before one of tho pnblio halls, and derives Home 
 of its effect by its unusual position. The brave settler appears 
 still on guard. 
 
 Mr. Seth Hunt informed me, in answer to my inquiries, 
 that my friend, Mr. Goodenouoh, is still in Holyoke City, 
 and that Mr. TooaooD is still engager 'n the same establish- 
 ment, so that if there be virtue in names, Holyoke City is all 
 right. I was told that there is a Mr. Badenouob now in the 
 city. He is suppoHed to come from New York, where such 
 persons are popularly said to be plentiful. In Holyoke, he 
 will rectify the balance, if persons " too good " abound. My 
 friend, Mr. Hunt, a great friend of anti-slavery agitators, 
 has been countless years a vegetarian. Some dinability had 
 at length overtaken him, but bad not abated bis fine human ' 
 interest in things of progress, and since I last saw him he has 
 recovered his usual health, and still discharges his duties of 
 treasurer to the Connecticut River Railroad. 
 
 At New Bedford I was shown the Wamsetter Mills, much 
 resembling in their complete appointments those of Mr. J. K. 
 Cboss, M.P., for Bolton. It was shown to me that two elec- 
 tric lights superseded eighty -nine gas burners. The manager, 
 who introduced the new incandescent illuminator, said he 
 fousd it to be half the price of gas. The Wamsetter Mills 
 were numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. They had no names* The 
 hurry in America is on everything. They number their 
 streets. Even their great avenues are 4th and lOch. They 
 will call their squares A, B, and C soon. Their counties will 
 be styled d, e, f. It produces an odd effect to see streets 
 numbered like prison cells. You expect to t-ee the passengers 
 with a number on the coat collars of gentlemen, and on the 
 bonnets of ladies, after the manner of convicts. The reason 
 why barks of trees in the parks are covered with signs and 
 labels, announcing " St. Jacob's Wine " or the "Latest thing in 
 Bitters " is that those who are sent out to put up the notices 
 take no time to find the right place for advertisements, and 
 stick them in the first to which they come. 
 
 Mr. Pbteb Sidebotham, a frequent correspondent in the 
 Go-operative News, and Mr. Coffin invited me to New Bedford, 
 where I was the chartered guest of Mr. Hugh M'Hugh, who 
 
 I 
 
 m 
 •IT' 
 
 H 
 

 showed me the moRt diversified and interesting piotare and pic- 
 ture frame workfi,and Itindrod branches of eleotro-reprodnctions 
 of ohjects iu art, I met with in America. The Rev. William J, 
 PoTTKR, a minister of high character iu Bedford; a writer of great 
 preoieion, force, and independent thoaght, and editor of the 
 Botton Index, introdaoed me to the audience in the City Hall, 
 which seemed to me a hall worthy of the name. The 
 lecture was upon " Oo-operative Methods and Results." My 
 friends were desirous that this subject should be explained in 
 New Bedford, and the full reports in the Daily Mercury and 
 Evening Standard, enabled those who did not come to the 
 lecture (who were a considerable number) to read all about 
 it. Co-operation Ih wanted in that excellent city. Bedford, in 
 England, where John Bun van's statue stands, is pretty damp, 
 and drowsy little rivers run about it. New Bedford, Mass., 
 resembles it in low-lying land and water, save that it has 
 much more of both ; and though it has had no Bunyan, it has 
 great historic memories of its own of anti-slavery days. 
 
 Wanderiag about the city one evening, I thought a street 
 I turned into had gone mad. l-juade for the scene of commo< 
 tion. There was a grocer's shop in a blaze, within and with- 
 out ; and bands were playing in the stree' and behind the 
 counter and crowds outside watching the demonstration. 
 I was told that it was merely the opening of a new shop, that 
 this was the way in which the thing was done, and there was 
 good reason to believe that customers were to be got in that 
 way who could be depended upon not to reflect that those 
 who bought there had to pay for the Bedlamic display. There 
 must be a Bedlam near that Bedford. 
 
 The Rev. M. C. Julibn, a popular preacher in the city, 
 introduced me to the audience at the Neptune Hall, on the 
 second uight, when I was requested to speak on " Qladstonb 
 and Bbauonsfield — their methods of thought and characteris- 
 t'ls of their oratory." Several dstinguisbed citizens, legal 
 e.-'d political, were present. 
 
 Mv last breakfast in Bedford was in the Rev. Mr. Potter's 
 spacious library. The time of the train came all too soon, 
 abridging those pleasant and well-remembered hours. At 
 Providence, Rhode Island, I found the Naragansett Hotel so 
 crowded that it was with difficulty we reached our apart- 
 ments. The reason was, that the hotel was invaded uncere- 
 moniously from the streets, to hear a speech from Oeneral 
 Benjamin Butler, who had at last got himself elected 
 Governor of Massachussetts. As Mr. Wendell Pbillips, who 
 
PLBABANT DAYg IN PBOVIDBMOI. — 
 
 118 
 
 had introdaoed me to the geoeral in 1879, had promotod. his 
 eleotioD, I neat up my ooDgratalations to the General ou his 
 ■aooess ; though as ao elector I oonld not have oast a Tote for 
 him, exoept on the groonds of ingenuity, perseTeranoe, and 
 audacity. 
 
 On the night of our arrival at Providence, we were present 
 at a festival of the Oburoh, presided over by the Rev. 
 Frbdbriok a. Hinoklby. On leaving the Naragansett Hotel, 
 we were the guest of Mr. James Eddy, who has a great col- 
 lection of pictures, in which he is a distinguished connoisseur. 
 He has two charming daughters, who each excel as artists. 
 Mr. Eddy has built a fine church near his own house and 
 grounds. Like the old Catholic gentlemen in England, he 
 has a church attached to his hall. He has adorned the 
 church by many noble ethical sentences, which arc engraved 
 about it. 
 
 Mr. Ballou drove me to the suburbs of Providenco, where 
 I Lad a long-promised visit to make. The open, latticed 
 carriages — excellent in July — are too breezy in November, 
 and I took a pure Providence cold, which might be patented, 
 it is BO distinctive. I tried one in 1879, and could draw the 
 specifioation. But it did not prevent me speaking in the 
 Conservatory Hall of the Free Religious Association, of which 
 the Rev. Mr. Hinoklby is pastor, on the '* Characteristics of 
 English Parliamentary Oratory," a subject which, whenever 
 it was prescribed to me, gave me the advantage of addressing 
 eminent citizens, not to be allured when the generally unknown 
 subject of cooperation was the topic. Reports of this lecture 
 in the Providence Journal I saw quoted in journals far away 
 from Providence. Before leaving the city I had the pleasure 
 of dining with Mr. Wbedon, a considerable manufacturer, who 
 is himself an author, and as a thinker on co-operative and social 
 theoriet) has, directly and indirectly by suggestion, caused some 
 wise and valuable works to appear. 
 
 In consequence of a passage in the Providence Journal, 
 purporting 'jO be a remark of mine at the Conservatory Hall, 
 I sent a note to that paper saying : — 
 
 Yonr reporter hM given snoh an interesting and spirited aooonnt of 
 the address I delivered on Sunday morning, at the Bev. Frederic A. 
 HlnoUey's Ohnroh, that I am relootant to suggest a single oorreotion, 
 and I do it, not on my own behalf, bot that of my friend, Sir Wilfrid 
 LawBon, who is at the head of the great movement on behalf of 
 temperance in England. What I said of gingerbeer and lodawater 
 oratory in Parliament related to the predeoessor of Sir Wilfrid Lawson 
 in the Hoose of Commons. Sir Wilfrid has entirely the opposite 
 
 '1* 
 
 
 I 
 
 <!(!' 
 
; ^ 
 
 114 
 
 A QUESTIONING EECiPTION.- 
 
 qnalitieH — an is tho first wit who ever reprenented that oansn in Pntrlia- 
 int'iit, whioh needs mt morrt than ar.y other. Sir Wilfrid has iufiDite 
 hnranar both in puhliu and private life, and hae niada the oaaaa of 
 temperanoB the most agreeable advocacy iu England. 
 
 We were all the guests of the Rev. Mr. Hinckley for a time, 
 as v«re had tho honour of a reception one eveuipt? in his par- 
 lour, and a party o^ no mean interest it was. For myaelf, I 
 deserved a medal for the numher of quentions I answered 
 upon co-operation and most other things. Mr. Hinckley is him- 
 self a preacher whose discourses command admiration and 
 have great public relevance, as their periodic publications 
 show. I owed much to his courtesy in affording me oppoi;- 
 tunities of speaking to his people which he might more pro- 
 fitably have used himself. A note from Mr. Wendell Phillips 
 sayiny he would be able to see us ia Boston, caused us to 
 leave Providence where we should gladly have lingered longer. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 A MORNING WITH WENDELL PHILLIPS —THE AUTHOR OF '* BACK 
 TO BACK." — PLEASANT ADVj^lNTURES IN NEW YORK. — AN IRISH 
 EDITOR GOES BACK UPON HIMSELF. — RECEPTION NIGHTS. 
 
 OnemorningMaster Allen Hinckley, son of the rev. gentle- 
 man mentioned in the last chapter — a healthy, well-built little 
 fellow, just tall enough to peep over the table — found me 
 alone when he came down, and took the opportunity to ask 
 me a few questions which were on his mind. One was, 
 " How long shall you stay ?" " Until Monday," I answered. 
 •' Why will you stay until Monday ?" he next asked. " Be- 
 cause I like being here," I replied. "Then did you not like 
 being where you were ?" was his next question. It was quite 
 a fair inference, though it did not occur to me when I gave 
 the answer I made, that if I stayed where I was beoaupe I 
 liked the place, it was possible that I did not like the place I 
 
A MOENING WITH WENDELL PHILLIPS. — 
 
 115 
 
 bad left. So I had to explain things farther by a question of 
 my own, namely, " Whether Master Allen did not like 
 sitting by the Btove watching the breakfast being spread ; and 
 whether if he went in the evening to a plum cake party, 
 would he not like to stay and see thematiic lantern, and thus 
 like staying there without di«likiug the home he had letr, ?" 
 This made raatteia clear to the youug lof^iioiau, who was a 
 good specimen of a briuht-miuded American boy, sensible 
 without being precocious. 
 
 My return to Boston was not because I did not like Provi- 
 dence, but because of a welcome note from Mr. Wendell 
 Philups, who was unwell when we passed through Boston — 
 
 saying he should be }.;lad to see us on our return. 
 
 My 
 
 dauf^liter was anxious to see one of whom she had heard po 
 much, aiid )ier iriend Mrs. Leach was also accorded that 
 pleasure. His new reHidence in Common-street (so named 
 from Ijiug by the great commoji, and affording a view of it), 
 is like the one he occupied so long in Essex-street, and 
 affords aspects such as Mrs. Phillips was there accustomed. 
 Among the gifts of Mr. Phillips was a late profile portrait 
 of himself, prefirred by Mrs. Phillips to others. It occupies 
 now an honoured place in the New York Album, of which the 
 reader will meet with an account. It is in my opinion the 
 finest of all the portraits of bis later years. Everybody is 
 struck by that commanding head. We spoke of many things, 
 and all too short seemed the golden hours he gave us. Though 
 Mr. Wendell Phillips takes views upon currency, the Iribh 
 question, and the candidature of General Butler, which I 
 lack the information necessary to enable me to agree with, 
 I still remain of opinion that Mr. Phillips means more that 
 is good when he is wrong than anyone else means when he 
 is light. 
 
 One of the pleasures of Boston was to hear the Rev. Edward 
 Everett Hale, the preacher who wrote the admirable story 
 of " Back to Bactk," ^"hich appeared in the columns of the 
 Go-npcrathe News. Mr. Hale has that expression of incessant 
 activity, so characteristic of him, but he has an unwearied 
 voice of great power and compass, which resounded in the 
 large church of which he is miuister. Afterwards we (myself, 
 my daughter, and her friend Mrs. Leach) had the gratification 
 of dining with Mr. and Mrs. Hale, at the " Heights," where we 
 met Mr. Carroll D, Wright, Chief oi the Bureau of Statistics 
 of Labour, Mr. Weedon, and others. Mr. Hale is the author 
 of numerous works, remarkable for vigour and popular power, 
 
 
 ! 1 
 
116 
 
 HOSPITALITIES OF BOSTON. — 
 
 . ll- 
 
 ^'f^' 
 
 displaying nnusnal genins for seeiag bovr much there is of 
 romantic truth in things practical, which are quite uuim- 
 portant in ordinary eyes. Mr. Carboll Wright explained to 
 me the disadvantage of having no codification of general law, 
 which should be common to all States. In Massachusetts 
 there are 150 crimes which a person may commit ; in the next 
 State there are but 100. A serious social crime, which is a 
 gaol affair in Boston, in another State is a matter of fine only. 
 The effect of this is to unhinge morality, and often to efface 
 the moral sentiment. Mr. Wriobt discovered to me an 
 important argument in favour of a National Guide Book, by 
 Mr. HoppiN, of the United States Legation, London, in 
 a State paper, which, but for him, would have remained 
 unknown to me. 
 
 The best written paper j upon the objects — co-operative, 
 emigrant, and otherwise— iU which I was concerned appeared 
 in the Iiulex, the Advertiser, and the Transcript, of Boston. 
 Id the latter paper the writer was a lady — Miss Hardakbr I 
 believe. The editors of the. Index accorued me the use of their 
 office, which was of great advantage to 1:2?, °v. were the many 
 aourtesies and hospitalities of Mr. B. F. Underv ood, and not 
 less of Mrs. Underwood, who, like Mrs. Liyrrmore, appeared 
 to me most engaging representatives of the civil equality of 
 women — prepossessing, unassuming, well-informed. You never 
 thought of their •• rights " — you knew they were ladies 
 whom it were mere insolence to regard as unequal to civil 
 duties. 
 
 Again it happily fell to me to speak in the Parker Memorial 
 Hall, when the Rev. J. K. Applebee introduced me to the 
 assembly. On another night we were accorded a receptiou 
 in the parlours of the Parker Hall, which owed its interest 
 largely to the presence of the Bev. E. E. Hale, who 
 suggested consideration of the moral and practical aspects of 
 ou-operation. 
 
 Tho'jgh the Hoffman House was alluring to me from its 
 freedom and space, we went this time to the house of my 
 friend, Mr. George S. M'Watters. Madame Errant, bis 
 daughter, and her husband, Signor Errant, the most famous 
 teacher of singing in New York, reside in the same hou je ; 
 Mr. C. Evans, some time president of tl e Free Trade Club, 
 and Mrs. Evans also ; so that we had tue charm of various 
 society, besides the many personal courtesies of Mr. M'Wat- 
 ters, in whose dining-room are more portraits of heroes and 
 sages, journalists and orators of all nations, colours, and 
 
oonntries than I met with in any other bonse. There is, I 
 believe, no national portrait gallery in Anaerioa, and it was 
 an advantage to see a private one. 
 
 In New York a letter was delivered to me three years after 
 it waa written, from Mr. J. W.' A. Wbioht, whom we had the 
 pleasure to see at onr Congress in 1877. He will understand 
 why I waa not able to answer it at the time it was sent. 
 
 We were driven one day to the Central Park Avenue to see 
 the bnats of Mazzini and Burns. The bust of Mazztni is 
 muoh nobler and more ooloasal than I expected to find it. 
 Bryant, the poet, unveiled this memorial of the great Italian. 
 Bryant was then more than ninety years of age, and met 
 with a fatal aooident on returning home. 
 
 A fricud contemplating erecting a statue of Burns on the 
 embankn.ent in Loudon from the atelier of the sculptor who 
 executed that in New York, I examined it for him. The 
 statue is iraposing, and has dignity. The eyes of the poet 
 are not in fine frenzy rolling, but upturned and fixed. The 
 poet is probably engaged upon his verses " To Mary in 
 Heaven," the expression is not otherwise in Burns's way. 
 
 The Star of New York, a <vell-known Irish organ, as I have 
 
 already mentioned, said some gracious words of myself and 
 
 companions on our arrival, and in approval of my object in 
 
 promoting intelligent facilities of emigration. 
 
 " It ia not," C'aid the editor, " Ireland alone that is anffering. It 
 iH not only fonr milliona df Iridh people who are gruond down to the 
 dnat under the heel of British landlordism. The EnizIiBh peasant and 
 labonrer are praotioAlly in the Bame sad and terriblH predioameat. 
 Every poor man in England is directly involved in this Irish struggle 
 for justice. And English philantbropiBts, setting that Irish peasants 
 migrate to America, and in a few ynars become respected citizeiis, 
 able not oiily to support their tamilies, but also able and wiJUDg to 
 help to pay the rack-rents British landlords exact of tbeir friends at 
 homp, begin *o inquire why America is not, after all, the panacea for 
 England's inoreasiDg woes. Mr. Uolyoake's mission is ooe of humanity, 
 »tid the mesBBge he will carry back may have an important bearing 
 on the future of thoneands of English and Irish fatDilies. It is netd- 
 leoB to bugg-flt that onr working peopln give him a hearty reception. 
 Otir labonreid know their friends and are glad to welcome them." 
 
 Without any new information , and for no reason, save that the 
 
 newspapers had announced that Mr. Gladstone had accorded 
 
 £100 towards the expenses incurred by two visits to America, 
 
 for objects such as the editor of the Star himself, had himself 
 
 very fairly stated on August 26, he wrote as follows on 
 
 Sf pt, 2, seven days later : — 
 
 It seems, however, that Mr. Goorge Jacob Holyoake has eonoelTed 
 the briUiaut idea that the lJ..vited States may be utilised by the English 
 
 > 
 
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 !l1 
 
 
 *i 
 
118 
 
 AN EDITOR GOBS BACK ON HIMSELF.- 
 
 ! i 
 
 111' 
 
 n»tioa to rid itielf of • anrplaa popaktion not exaotly wanted in the 
 British oolonie::, and altogether too daogerooa to be kept at home ; 
 and he hae spent some time in preparing a sort of Qoide Book, telling 
 how these people can be systematioslly disposed of for their coontry's 
 good, and insinoating into their minds Tarioni indnoements for seeking 
 fame and fortune in this oonntry. His bf^orts have been so hiRhljr 
 appredated by the present landlord governaient of England that ithas 
 deifrayed part of the expense of his work, and has encooraged him tu 
 come here to gain information on the groand. According to the hazy, 
 bat still not unintelligible, explanations, he has infiltrated throngh the 
 brains of newspaper reporters, he is here as the spy of English land- 
 lords, to find oat where the nndesirable sarplns popalation uf England 
 can be safely damped, and the ooantry saved from landlord and tenanc 
 agitations. 
 
 The Star, I was told, was Boss Kelly's paper, Bat he 
 must kiiov7 better than this. The Government knew nothing 
 of my efforts in 1879 antil long after I had made them. I 
 never saw a landlord, English or Irish, npon the sabjeot, and 
 am no more likely to do what the Star suspects than the editor 
 of the Star himself. A familiar story of Henbt Clay's tells how 
 a stump orator was one day out west piling up tne praises of 
 *' Old Hickory" (Daniel Jackson, to whom that stout nick- 
 name was given), when a discerning boss neu him pulled his 
 coat and said, " Throw in a little Latin, it will heighten the 
 effect." The only bit the speaker knew was the phrase, 
 sine qua non. In due course sine qua non appeared so 
 frequently in the speech, that a dissentient hearer, seeing 
 the effect it produced, cried out, " What- does ' sine qua non ' 
 mean ?" Whereupon the boss who had suggested the Latin, 
 knowing the orator was unequal to the demands made upuu 
 him, shouted out, " It is the name of a fortress which the 
 British want and Old Hickory wont let them have," which 
 satisfied everybody. Mr. Gladstone's friendliness to the 
 emigrant was to the Star what the fortress of " Sine qua non" 
 was lio the " Old Hickory " crowd. 
 
 A handsomely printed circular informed New York caring 
 for new subjects, that "Mr. George Jaoob Holyoakb will 
 give a free public lecture on ' Cooperation as a Moral Force,' 
 in All Souls' Anthon Memorial Church, West 48th Street, 
 between 6th and 7th Avenues, kindly tendered for the 
 occasion by the rector, Bev. Dr. B. Heber-Newton, on 
 Thursday evening, November 23, at eight o'clock." 
 
 The interior of the Anthon Memorial Church is remarkably 
 handsome. Dr. Newton did me the honour himself of pre- 
 senting uib to the congregation. Dr. Bobebt. Collyer was 
 one who was present, and spoke afcdr the address. On one 
 occasion I heard Dr. Newton preach. It was an oration on 
 
THE BBCBPTION IS MBW YORK. 
 
 119 
 
 111 
 
 
 a leading idea, bo laminonBly put that the hearer carried 
 away a oonoeption of lb as % diatioot addition to his know- 
 ledge. The same qualities appear in the popular volame, 
 lately published by Dr. Nbwton, on the " Use and Abuse of 
 the Bible." 
 
 Many eminent persons took great trouble (far beyond any 
 merits of mine) in tendering me and ray friends a public 
 reception in the parlours of the Co-operative Dress Associa- 
 tion, the use of which was offered by the directors, and Mr. 
 Pabke Godwin accorded me the distinction of presiding. 
 
 There were sixty names on the committee of arrangement, 
 including Mrs. Elizabeth Thompson, Miss Kate Field, Miss 
 Mabt Ainoe De Vebe, Ool. Ingeesoll, Dr. Frederic Hollick, 
 Rev. Dr. Bobert Collyeb, Bev. B Hbbeb- Newton, D.D., Prof. 
 Felix Adleb, Bev. J. H. Btlance. D.D., Mr. B. F. Underwood, 
 Jas. Charlton, Mr. Courtland Palmer, and others who are 
 in my mind to cite, did space permit. The Bev. O. B. 
 Frothinoham, Mr. Gledhill, and Mr. Peroival, were of the 
 number. 
 
 The reception was attended by a large number of ladies and 
 gentlemen. At a dinner given to Mr. Georoe, the tickets 
 were eight or ten dollars, which made it seem to many that 
 " Progress " had got out of " Poverty " atlast. The Committee 
 of the Beception concluded that I should prefer something 
 otherwise. Still a very pleasant repast followed the proceed- 
 ings of the evening. The great speeches were made by Mr. 
 Parke Godwin, Dr. Bobert Collyer, Bev. Heber-Newton, 
 and Prof. Adleb. Why men so eminent should take an evening 
 from their many engagements to attend this, I could not con- 
 ceive. I ought to add, that Mr. Peroival was amongst the 
 speakers. Mr. Parke Godwin's speech was reproduced in 
 many papers. He was himself a leader in the most famous 
 and most promising of all the social experiments of our time, 
 and still speaks with enthusiasm of those early dreams, of 
 which he is yet likely to soe the realisation. 
 
 Miss Kate Field was one of the ladies present who has lost 
 none of that grace and vivacity which we knew in London, 
 where she was the charm of all the circles in which she 
 appeared. Miss Mary Ainoe De Yere, one of whose beautiful 
 poems the readers of the Co-operative News will remember, 
 was also present, although she had jast returned from the 
 White Mountains, where illness had caused her to sojourn. 
 
 Before sailing in the "Catalonia," I received from the 
 Beception Committee enumerated a letter which, with many 
 
 k I 
 
 lii'i 
 

 120 
 
 A BUSSIAN IMTERVIBWEB. — 
 
 oonrtly words, said : " Before yoa leave America for your 
 home in England, we desire to^hank you for your admirable 
 disconrse on ' Oo-operation as a Moral Force,' yonr wiee 
 oonnsel in organising an Advisory Co-operative Board, and 
 the opportunity yon have afforded many friends to greet yua 
 personally." 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 A RUSSIAN INTERVIEWER. — THE LIVE [LOTTA. — AT GARIBALDI'S 
 HOME, STATEN ISLAND. — DINNER BY THE SOCIETY OF ETHICAL 
 CULTURE. — ORATORS AT THE ACADEMY OF MUSIC. — NEGLECT 
 OF THE MERMAIDS. 
 
 Though I have deliberately forgotten all I could and buried 
 many notes " ten thousand fathoms deep " that they might 
 not confront me, or remind me of further incidents, two or 
 three refuse to quit my memory. One is that the editor of 
 Truth — a paper representing the industrial classes, and of 
 considerable popularity in New York — sent to me a young 
 interviewer, a Eussian, very prepossessuig, and who gave the 
 impression — as many Russians do — of knowing everything. 
 He asked my opinion of most things under the sun. One 
 question was what I thought of Mr. Henry George's book, 
 'Progress and Poverty." I answered with the gaiety of 
 private conversation, which I trusted to him to express iu 
 grave terms, that " I thought Mr. George's book the 
 bloodiest treatise that had been published in my time." 
 Then I explained to my Russian delegate that this had 
 reference to the effect of the book supposing anybody believed 
 in it and tried to carry its doctrines into practice. The 
 book proposed the confiscation of all property in land, 
 which would involve a wider and fiercer carnage than any the 
 
PLUNDER AND FBOOBBCtS. — 
 
 121 
 
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 viotld had ever Been, or that any tyranny or malignity 
 had before excited. ThoRO who applaud the book mast 
 pee that it tends to exoite and jastify the murder of acre 
 owners at every opportunity. Very little appeared of the 
 reasons I gave for the opinion I expressed, but the opinion 
 itself was made pretty prominent in the report. On the 
 night of the co-operative lecture in the Anthon Memorial 
 Church, an honest, pleasant-mioded person, well built and 
 well bearded, apparently about 45, came to me at the close 
 aad said ha owed me pergonal thanks for the trouble I had 
 taken to procure a publisher for his book in England. I 
 answered that I was glad if I had done him a service, but 
 even then I did not know to whom I had rendered it. " Why, 
 he answered, " I am Mr. Georob." " Dear me !" I replied, 
 " how very human you look." " How did you expect me to 
 look ? " he inquired. " Well, after the book of ferocious 
 philanthropy with which you favoured us, I thought at least 
 to see you with dirks in your belt and dynamite enough in 
 your boots to blow up Poverty and Progress as well." Mr. 
 Gborge, in the Daily News to-day (January 8), says, " While 
 I have never proposed that in the resumption of the land by 
 the people any individual should be compensated, I have 
 always urged as an indispensable condition that iu such a 
 chaoge abundant provision should be made for the helpless 
 of both sexes and all ages," which mitigates but does not 
 deny or atone for the plunder. 
 
 One of the things which I did not inteud to forget was that 
 Providence was made pleasant to me by meeting again Dr. 
 W. 0. BnssBLL anc* his daughters, who made my visit to the 
 Cornell University so rememberable to me when I was their 
 father's gnest there in 1879. 
 
 We could never have gone about New York with the 
 pitiasant facility we did had it not been for the gift in the 
 latter days, by Mrs. Henrt Villard, of her carriage, that we 
 might make some suburban visits. Mr. Yillard I had known 
 in Europe when he was engaged, singular to say (though I 
 was unaware of it at the time), in promoting the issue by the 
 Social Science Association of Boston, of a National Guide 
 Book. An edition appeared, of which copies are not now to 
 be bad. It would have been a great advantage to America 
 bad the association persisted in its design. Mr. Yillard was 
 then the president of the Great Northern and Pacific Railway. 
 I often heard anecdotes of his wonderful enterprise, capacity, 
 and high character. Mrs. Yillard I found as engaging as when 
 
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 111 
 
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 122 
 
 THS LIVE LOTTA. — 
 
 we knew her in Enrope. She is one of the daughters of my 
 yalaed friend, Willum Lioyd Oarbison, and is therefore of 
 honoured and heroic Hneage. I had the great satiHfaction alsu 
 of meeting her brother, Mr. Garrison, at the office of the Evening 
 Post. I had never Been one of Mr. Garrison's bodb before. 
 
 Of oonrse, we gave one night to Lotta. She is in England 
 now. Whether her Oalifornian gaities and United States 
 humours will have as much interest on the English stage as 
 British eccentricities do on the American, is not to be said 
 beforehand, She is the only American actress who is racy 
 of the soil. There is nothing like her in America, and there 
 iH nothing like her elsewhere. She is the wildest, brightest, 
 maddest thing seen upon any stage. Only an American 
 woman could possibly do what she does. Sbe is never still ; 
 she is electric. She represents all the restlessness and ex- 
 citement in the country. She is everywhere on the stage at 
 once. Ancient playgoers speak of Lotta as a girl when they 
 first saw her, and she is as much a girl as ever. Only an 
 American woman conld possibly live with the animation she 
 displays. She has that amusing levity which is in the 
 American air, which ought to interest the English student 
 of manners. Certainly nothing could outrage us as it must 
 outrage Americans to see Mr. Irvino die in *' The Bells," or 
 recite " Eugene Aram." Lotta never distresses yon and 
 makes yon wish you had stayed at home. 
 
 If we had bright nights we also had bright days, and one 
 ineffaceable day was spent at Staten Island, on a vinit to the 
 friend of my student days, Dr. Frederick Hollick. We were 
 afterwards social missionaries together in the great agitation 
 of which Robert Owen was the head. Dr. Hollick drove 
 Qs everywhere, and showed ns everything. We viuited 
 the house of Mr. William Winter, a poet and well known 
 critic. We had the pleasure to see Mrs. Winter and 
 her charming family. We also went to Manteucci's, with 
 whom Garibaldi resided when in Staten Island, in whose 
 candle- works he wrought — not, as is often paid, as a workman, 
 but as a colleague of his friend, Manteucci, whom he would 
 persist in going to help, beoauee he was a resident in his 
 house. We had refreshment in the gardens of Garibaldi's 
 old friend, who still lives, radiant as ever with patriotism. 
 Most of the relics he has of "The General" have been 
 gathered by agents of Italian collections, in memory of their 
 ^reat deliverer. In the gardens where Garibaldi often sat 
 meditating on the adventures through which he had passed, 
 
DR. FELIX ADLER'S SPBECH AT THE GEBMAM CLUB. — 128 
 
 and others which he had in his mind to enter npon, we 
 gathered flowers to send to his son Menotti, which I still 
 preserve for him, and of which he will learn for the first 
 time in these pages. Manteuoci also kinc"y made bonqnets 
 for my daughter and her friend in remembrance of oar visit. 
 As far as I oonld I went np every pathway and over every 
 spot where The General had walked. 
 
 The next and last bright night in New York was a dinner given 
 me at the German Club. Professor Felix Adlbs presided. 
 The entertainers were distinguished in mnsio. law, medicine, 
 literature beyond my powers of appreciation . All, ol* mostly all, 
 were members of the Church of Ethical Culture, of which Dr. 
 Adler is the. founder and preacher. They presented me, in the 
 name of the society, with a costly album, containing fine 
 portraits of the most eminent men in ethics, literature, and 
 oratory, whom I was known to admire. Dr. Adler made the 
 most poetic and eloquent speech on the part of the enter- 
 tainers I have heard at any time. He began by telling us of 
 the legend of the sinking of the Nibelungen gold in the Rhine. 
 He who gave it to the great river, predicted that great riches 
 would proceed therefrom. He was but derided for his words 
 and distrusted for his gift, which men said was fallacious and 
 lost. At last, when none expected it, it reappeared in the 
 golden juice of the vine, which grew on the banks of 
 the river laved by the Rhine waters. To this he com- 
 pared the career of one who, explaining new principles or 
 new methods of progress during long, unregarded days, lives 
 at last, as it were, into a new world, where men are curious 
 to hear what they neglected when first spoken, believing what 
 they then denied, really valuing what they once thought worth- 
 less, and not ungrateful for its advantages. The Nibelungen 
 gold was not lost in the Rhine. But no one can relate all 
 this with the grace Dr. Adler told it. 
 
 By the thonghtfulness and exertions of Mr. M'Watters, 
 an "American Advisory Co-operative Board" previously 
 named was formed. The Hon. Parke Godwin accepted 
 the presidency thereof, the Rev. Dr. J. H. Rylance and 
 Mr. Justus O. Woods, the offices of vice-presidents, and 
 Mr. J. M. Pbbcival, that of secretary. The Board under- 
 took to promote the object of a National Guide Book of the 
 kind I had advocated, and especially to represent the 
 interests of co-operation. It seemed to me of importance 
 that there should exist in New York an influential board 
 repre'jenting these questions, and I could not but regard it as a 
 
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 124 
 
 ORATOBS AT THE ACADEMY OF MUSIC. — 
 
 valued and unasnal oompliment that the Board should be oon- 
 Btitnted with a view to promotioK objeota I had represented. 
 The last night in New York (November 28) a fierce cold 
 wind — the precursor of the great snow of the night — swept 
 the streets. Mr. M'Watters accompanied me to the Academy 
 of Music, where a meeting wan held to raise 250,000 dollars 
 for building a pedestal for the great Bebtholdi statue. The 
 colossal figure of Liberty enlightening the world , will be 300 feet 
 high, and is the gift of Frbuoe. It is to stand where every 
 sail approaching the harbour of New York can see the electric 
 torch which Liberty holds up in the air. My object was to 
 bear Parke Godwin, with his eloquent and commanding 
 manner of speech (though he is of good age, his voice filled 
 the great hall) ; and to hear Mr. Evarts, who presided, whooe 
 exact, clear words were also heard everywhere, although in 
 person the speaker seemed as frail as Dr. Obannino. His lucid 
 statement had gleams of brightness and wit, which enabled 
 me to understand why he is so often chosen as the mouth- 
 piece of the nation on occasions of osremony or State courtesy. 
 Dr. OoLLTER was also one of the selected speakers, but having 
 to sail next morning I was unable to stay until he spoke. 
 
 The night was, as I have said, cold as charity when it has 
 been three months in a refrigerator, and the wind was as 
 bitter as the sentences of Schoi^enhauer ; yet when I arrived 
 at the Academy of Music, there I saw my friend Peter 
 Cooper, with whom I had rememberable intercourse in 1879. 
 The brave old philanthropist had come to the meeting on 
 behalf of the Bertholdi statue, on that inclement night, 
 although he was then in his ninety-third year. He has died 
 since, and the reader may see a fine portrait of him in the 
 Century for January 1884. 
 
 Before we left we had a farewell visit from Mrs. Elizabeth 
 Thompson. Notwithstanding the growing inclemency of the 
 weather, she gave us that gladness, and the bright faces 
 which greeted us on our arrival shone on our departure. 
 
 As I have recounted, we had four days of steady wind 
 storm on our return. Shaespere tells us that — 
 
 Mermaida on a dolphin's baok * 
 
 Utterinff snob dnloet and hnrmorionB breath 
 That the rade aes grows oivil at oer soDg. 
 
 Daring these four days, I judge, the mermaids were not oat, 
 and though we saw dolphins at other times on shore and 
 quite disengaged, no mermaids appeared upon them, and sang, 
 nor was the sea civil. When we arrived at the bar of the Mersey 
 
A POVBRTY-STBICKEN CUSTOM BOUSB. 
 
 125 
 
 we oonolnded we were safe. This was not oonolusive, for we 
 were detaioed owiog to tide and fog near thirty honra on 
 the spot where the " City of Brnssels " was Hoon after run 
 into. We were afraid of running down another ship ; it did 
 not ooour to us tbat this might happen to ours. Two 
 American ships lying about pushed forward, but not without 
 sustaining mischief, and incurring the risk of doing 
 it. Our prudent captain avoided both. The two adven- 
 turous vessels arrived immediately before us, when the 
 second had to wait while the cargo of the first was 
 examined in the Custom House ; and the third had to wait 
 while the same operation was undergone with the cargo of 
 the second ship. Thus, after twenty- eight hours in the fire- 
 less fog at the bar, we bad to wander about in the frost and 
 snow more than two hours. This was owing to the eminent city 
 of Liverpool being without a Custom House with compartments 
 in which several vessels could deposit the freight of passengers 
 simultaneously, and be simultaneously examined and dis- 
 charged. If Livejf pool is too poor to do this, no doubt New 
 York would make a subscription to defray the expense. 
 
 Our friend Mr. Fbas^r, of Liverpool, whose kindness was 
 proof against delay and discomfort, was all day on the food- 
 less, fi/ele<)s, tender to meet us, which was groping about in 
 the fog, for the '* Catalonia." For some days we were the 
 guests of Mr. Thos. Cope, while the frost of the Mersey 
 thawed from us, and who generously arranged for our return 
 to London in a new saloon carriage which I had not before 
 Been, in which cold or discomfort was impossible. 
 
 It is the old English carpenter-chest railway car which has 
 stopped the art of conversation among us. An English 
 railway carriage is but a carpenter's-chest, or large packing- 
 case, with two shelves in it, named seats, just to induce 
 people to take tickets to occupy them. A lady, seeing a gentle- 
 man in a carriage will not join him, nor speak, if she does, lest 
 it should be taken amiss ; and a gentleman is reticent, lest 
 specoh should be regarded as a familiarity. When the new 
 saloon carriages of the London and North-Western Railway 
 become general, the lost art of conversation will be recovered. 
 More ingenious in construction and richer in fittings than 
 American carriages, they admit both of privacy to those who 
 desire it, and company to those who prefer it. It was a 
 matter of pride to find the Old Country, on returning to it, 
 excelling in the contrivances of graceful locomotion, of which 
 it must be owned America set the example. 
 
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 126 
 
 PROHIBinOK IN KANSAS. — 
 
 CHAPTER XXm. 
 
 PBOHIBITION IN KANSAS. — NEW YORK IDEAS OF 00- OPERATION. — 
 AMERICAN INSTANCES. — BTORT OF THE HARVARD STORE- 
 
 In oonrtesy I mast paase before desoribiog "American 
 Ideas of Go-operation, " to say a few words to the Editor of 
 the British Temperance Advocate, who, oonsideriog that " the 
 best portion of oar working men " read the Co-operative News, 
 devotes a page to controverting what I am supposed to have 
 said in this narrative concerning " Prohibition in Kansas." 
 Mr. Bamford kindly forwards me a copy of that joarnal sent 
 to him for me to see. Nothing more oarioas than so much as 
 relates to me has been written since the flood. The £ditor 
 of this Temperance Advocate himself says, ** We do not believe 
 onrselves that Mr. Holyoakb's statement has any real or solid 
 foundation." The carious thing is, I never made the " state- 
 ment." He again says, " First of all, we will give Mr. 
 Holyoakb's words." My answer is, I never wrote any. At 
 the request of the Advocate, Mr. A. M. Powell, of New York, 
 vnrites a letter which purports to be an answer to " Mr. Qeorqb 
 Jacob Holyoakb's account of prohibition in Kansas." I never 
 gave any account of it. Tbe Advocate publishes a second 
 letter from Mr. John P . St. John, Ex-Governor of Kansas. 
 This gentleman also represents me as " conspiring to break 
 the prohibitive law, and encouraging others to violate it," 
 and ends with this amusing passage : " The trouble, I fear, 
 with Mr. HoLYOAKB is, he does not desire the sacoess 
 of prohibition, but it will succeed despite his acknow- 
 ledged efforts to prevent it." I neither made, nor 
 thought of making, nor desired to make, any " effort 
 to prevent it." Yet this strange passage represents me as 
 being so interested against prohibition that the faculty of 
 truth is on strike in my mind, and that I am not merely a 
 reporter but an inventor of facts against prohibition. There 
 are gentlemen in Topeka who, had they been consulted, could 
 have informed the ex-governor better. I went to the State 
 
 
MR. JOHN ST. JOHN, BX-OOVBRNOR OF KANBAR4 
 
 127 
 
 Hoa«e in that city, in the hope of meeting Mr. St. John, aud 
 have pleasant reoolleotions of the maoy ooartesiea received 
 there. Uofortanately the ex-governor was away. I did not 
 go to America to study prohibition. I never made any 
 inquiry about it from any human being, and I should have 
 thought it presumption and bad tabte to have given aoy 
 opinion upon the aws and character of the people of a great 
 State where I neiiber had, nor could have, personal knowledge 
 or experience. I heard Governor St. John spoken of highly, 
 and if the editor of the Temperance Advocate did not vouch 
 that Mr. Stf. John has written the letter he prints I should 
 not believe it ; it is so unusual for a gentleman of his 
 rank to write without verifying the alleged facts he 
 was writing about. Not one of the statements ascribed to 
 me are mine, they are my friend, Mr. Charlton's, and they 
 purport to be his. It is Mr. Charlton's itinerary, which was 
 printed in smaller type showing that it was not part of my 
 narrative. It was included in my story, beoauHe he gave 
 more accurate geographical and historic accounts than I could 
 of the principal scenes through which we passed together* 
 His own opinion on any incidental question, as that of 
 prohibition in Kansas, has an authority to which no statement 
 of mine could pretend, he having had thirty years respon- 
 sible management of great railways in Canada and America, 
 and knowing the life of the people as no private person could. 
 He has a dear answer to the Editor of the Advocate and 
 Governor St. John. Being, like myself, a life- long friend of 
 temperance, he is no more likely than I am to invent testimony 
 against it, though, like myself, he may not believe that 
 prohibition is temperance. 
 
 My first words in the Anthon Memorial Ohuroh were that 
 " the best way to advance oo.operation in America was not to 
 attempt it — that is, with the ideas prevalent concerning it." 
 Within the period of my first visit, in 1879, several attempts 
 have been made in New York, in which the expense of main- 
 taining the stores was defrayed, not from the profits of custom, 
 but from capital. The members who subscribed it were not 
 pledged to make their own purchases at the stores at the 
 peril of losing their shares. The dependence for busioess was 
 upon the general public, who had no motive for buying at the 
 co-operative shop rather than any other. There appears to have 
 been little local propagandism of the principle of co-operation 
 in the neighbourhood previous to opening the store — making 
 converts who would become purchasers. A small outlay of 
 
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 loan capital at the beginoing, leaving the growth of the store 
 to depend upon profits created by pnrohasera, has not yet 
 entered into the American miud. On this plan failure would 
 bring no disastir and no shame, and the experiment could be 
 repeated in another neighbourhood where better chances of 
 saccosa were present. English success, I explained, was 
 brought about by setting the purchaser above the stockholder 
 (shareholder is the EngliHb term). It was that device which 
 first made the stores grow. 
 
 HOBA.GE Gberley, fouudor of the N'ew York Trihune, under- 
 stood all about co operation. He was the only mkster of the 
 question among American public men. In previous writings 
 I have quoted evidence from his pen of this. While in 
 America, last year, a Tribune was shown me of April 10, 1867, 
 in which the Editor reviewed my "History of Co-operation in 
 Halifax," which, he told his readers, " was no less interesting 
 ,.<<:' n the account of co-operation in Boohdale noticed in the 
 Tr^Oune years ago;" and added, " if any publisher in this city 
 Mil reprint Mr. Holyoake's pamphlet (" History of the Hali- 
 ;' ..X Stores ") we shall be glad to give him our copy." This 
 vr'j,% a very practical proof of interest in it. No one in 
 Eugland — not even the great Store itself, to which I had 
 devoted time and trouble to write its history — took as much 
 interest as this. Yet the career of co-operation in Halifax is 
 as remarkable in incident as the career of Rochdale. 
 
 Co-operation, I maintained everywhere was now, as in the 
 bei^iuning, the precursor of self-supporting — not State sup- 
 ported — communism. In the end capital, accumulated by 
 economy, would carry out ivhat philanthropy fails in : only 
 social life will not begin by having " all things in common." 
 It will end that way. Co-operation, I said, was a scheme for 
 the redistribution of property wichout dynamite or petroleum, 
 by taking care that T>roperty created in the fature, should 
 come into the hands of those whose industry shall produce it. 
 
 Co-operation is not a philanthropy, nor a new scheme of 
 benevolence, nor a form of Utopian sentimentality, but a 
 business, which has to pay like any other business. Bat it 
 is a business sadn^t^d with morality. That is why few people 
 touch it. Co-opt:. 9 tion is not an emotional contrivance for 
 helping others ; it is a manly contrivance for enabling others 
 to help themselves ; and at} half the world want to be helped 
 by somebody else, co-operation is not popular — except among 
 the independent and industrious. 
 
 With the view of giving to New York State aid-seeking 
 
Bocialists an idea of the practical sucoeBs of this device of 
 Gelf-help, I said — " There in Mr. John Oledhhx, onr fir^t 
 parohaser io this oonntry, he has lately been elected one of 
 the Board of Managers of the New York Produce Exchange ; 
 that means known capacity of bnsiness nsefalness. He has 
 been joined in bis English work by Mr. J. M. Percival, who 
 has been concerned in co-operation from its origin. They bay 
 American produce for us in England, to the amount of 
 $2,000,000 a year. In Ireland we have several buyers, 
 who purchase $5,000,000 of butter and eggs. From the 
 continent of Europe we import $5,000,000 worth of butter, 
 eggs, flour, and other produce. The two buying societieH of 
 England and Scotland purchr o commodities to the amount 
 of $25,000,000, for which they pay cash. Besides these two 
 buying societies we have in England and Scotland from 1,200 
 to 1,500 societies who turn over $100,000,000 annually, nearly 
 all of which is paid for over the counter." 
 
 In Pontiac County there is a new paper announced, to be 
 called the Equity. It has no relation to co-operation, but it has 
 the true name of it. Colonel Johnson told me that down in 
 Kansas and New Mexico a form of simple co-operation 
 prevailed of this kind. Persons who had no lands, and, per- 
 haps, little knowledge of breeding, bought flocks, and 
 consigned them to a farmer who had lands but little or no 
 Htock. He reared, grazed, and attended to the increase of the 
 stock, he taking half the lambs and half the wool for his 
 pains, and the other halves go to the stockowners. 
 
 The Philadelphia IndustrieJ Co-operative Society is 
 apparently the most important in America. It has four 
 (•tores in the city and four branch stores elsewhere. Its 
 thirty-second quarterly report declared a dividend of 6 per 
 cent, which was described as lower than their average. The 
 society has no educational fund. This is probably because 
 an education fund is not needed in America, where every body 
 is so wise that they have nothing to learn. No society which 
 has had one, ever gives it up ; no society which begins 
 without it ever goes back to it. Those who live in the 
 dark are subject to diseases as are those who live in cellars. 
 There is an intellectual smallpox, as well as a bodily one, and 
 the ignorant are very subject to it, and hav& it very badly. 
 There is an art association, though it has no literature. 
 
 The students of Harvard University have set up what they 
 call a co-operative society, which is simply a civil service 
 btore for buying cheap and selling at cost price. This is very 
 
180 
 
 STOBY OF THE HABVABD 8T0BK. 
 
 neeful as far as it goes, bat is not teaching thrift to the 
 Btadents, which is a personal virtae, so long as there is 
 remedial misery in the world. The virtae of wise thrift is 
 much needed in American families, among well-to-do more 
 than among ill-to-do persons, who often have too little to save 
 any. Here is the story of Harvard co-operation, as told in 
 the New York Tribune: — 
 
 Oambridge la not the aoiTenity town where one would ezpeot to 
 find Btodents making a systematio effort to live eoonomioally. The 
 average expenditores at Harvard have been higher than at any other 
 Amerioan college, and the stndents have of late years been conapionona 
 for eztravaganoe of dreas and Inxnriona tastes. Yet a oo-operative 
 Booiety haa been formed at Cambridge. It waa organised last spring at 
 a maaa-meeting of the Facnlty and atndents of all the departments of 
 the nniversity. A snperintendent waa appointed, a ooonter in a store 
 ia Harvard-aqoare waa hired, a small atook of atationery and oth»r 
 articlea was bonght, and an order book for the pnrohase of books, 
 general gooda and college snpplies was opened. The Board of Fellows 
 evinced their approval of the undertaking by allowing the society to 
 nae the old gymoaBinm opposite Memorial Hall as a salearoom. The 
 membership rapidly increased after the enterprise had been sanctioned 
 by the college aathorities. A strong impetus was given to the move- 
 ment by the advantageooa arrangement made with a series of reputable 
 Boston flrma, whereby stndents received a heavy discount on presenting 
 a certificate of membership and paying cash. The society became a 
 college institution. The membership now exoeeda 700. 
 
 Each member pays an annual fee of two doUars ; the current 
 expenses are met in this way ; no dividenda are declared ; and 
 the advantage of lower prioea and trade diaconnts is enjoyed only by 
 members of the society. Articles purchaaed at wholesale are aold at a 
 very slight percentage above coat, a margin being neceaaary as a small 
 stock has to be carried from term to term. In addition to the goods 
 kept in stock an order-book is always open for the purchase of books, 
 ooal, wood, furniture, clothing, and many other articles, the purchaser 
 having the advantage of wholesale ratea, with a small commission added 
 in some instances. The discounts allowed by the " affiliated tradesmen," 
 especially tailors, are very large. Arrangements are also made for 
 the pnrohase and sale of second-hand booka, pioturea, and furniture, ao 
 that outgoing aeniora and incoming freshmen are equally protected 
 againat loaa and extortion. Theae aecond-hand goods are sold on 
 oommiesion, and graduates in any department are spared the annoyance 
 of disposing of their superfluous poflSMBions. 
 
 This is not the first co-operative experiment which has been made 
 in an American college, but it is the only one which has been com- 
 pletely worked out in practical details. 
 
 This is a very interesting story, which has never been told 
 
 before. Bab as this is described us " co-operation " in a leading 
 
 joarnal, what idea can the American people have of it ? The 
 
 English meaning of the term mast be anknown to them. 
 
 Trae, we call the same kind of thing " co-operation" in England, 
 
 bat everybody knows the difference between the London and 
 
 Bochdale conception of it. This Harvard co-operation is an 
 
THE CO-OPERATIVE DBESS ASSOCIATION. — 
 
 181 
 
 inadequate form of it for professora and students to be 
 oonoerned in. It misses the morality of co-operation, and does 
 nothing to amend the vdraoity of what Lord Tennyson oalU 
 "the giant liar — Trade." How can it be expected that 
 oo-operation — which is designed to save money for the 
 purchaser— can be popular in a country where they establish 
 protection laws to render commodities dear ? 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 HOW THE CO-OPEBATIVE DBESS ASSOCIATION CAME TO FAIL. — 
 WILD IDEAS OF OO-OPERATIYE W0BK8H0PS. 
 
 The Co-operative Dress Association in New York occupied 
 the whole of a lofty and splendid building. The stock in the 
 rooms showed both affluence and splendour. There were 
 real co-operative features about the place. Its cafe was well 
 devised and its provisions were good. Soon after I saw it, 
 word went over tho land and the water also — for the news 
 appeared in English newspapers — that " Co-operation had 
 failed again." The New York Tribune, which remains the best 
 exponent of co-operative principle (of which ic never loses 
 sight) in America, at once explained the career of this absooia- 
 tion which ought to be widely read, not merely in the United 
 States, but in Europe. The story of the Tribune will be useful 
 in England. It is as follows : — 
 
 The failure of the Oo-operative Dress AsBOoiation has been ascribed 
 to variooa oanses, snob as want of snffloient capital, incompeteDoy of 
 the foreign bo;er, bad choice in the seleotiou of a name, improvident 
 management, and disagreements of officers. Ic is (ortonate tltat defal- 
 cation is not found in the list of assiguablu canses of the disaster. 
 The only thing qnite certain is, ttaat a paid-np capital of $250,000 bas 
 been lost, and lost honestly, in the space of about eighteen months. 
 
 The association — we speak without disrespect for its founders and 
 promoters— was a foredoomed failure from its beginning. It was not 
 
 Ml' 
 
 11 
 
 'I 
 
 '! Id 
 
 U\ I 
 
 
 iH*« 
 
 liil 
 
 i!''L 
 
 iiiif 
 
182 
 
 MR. MEDHILL OW WORKSHOP CO-OPBRATION. — 
 
 bftsed npoD the priooiples of oo-operation. bat npon thnsfl of oompnti- 
 tion. Ic WAB a I'oiat-Btook, oompeiitive dry (toods and millinery ntore, 
 differing in nowise from otht-r dry goods and millinery stores, except 
 as its ownership was ncatt^red amoDK some handreds of persons <vhc» 
 gave no attention to its affairs, and its management whh in the banrfa 
 of either hired persons or inezpericnoert persons, aud was a shif lini^ 
 management at that. There is no trade so largely dependent opon 
 aoqnired skill and iodividnal responsibility as the trade in ladies' itrf sh 
 «ooda. There ia none so beset with the vioisi-itndes of fashion aud 
 oaprioe, and none, therefore, whioh reqair(*s snch qaiokness of virion 
 and firmness of nerve to meet exixenoies. The grooer knows that sng«r 
 and tea and oofftie and batter and egx^ will always be in demand at 
 prioes something above the oost of production. The dry goods merchant 
 u<<ver knows whether tbo articles on his shelves to-day will bring as 
 maoh six months hence as they have cost hira Same will bring more 
 aud some less, and his saoofss or failnre depends npon his ability to 
 get rid of the whole lot at an average profit, and keep his stock so fall 
 all the time that his customers shall have little or no ooonsion to go 
 elsewhere to find what they want. The mjst eminent professor of ihii<i 
 art in the United States was the late A. T. Stewart, bat Mr. Stewart's 
 skill was an aoqniremeut, a growth, an accretion of forty-years' develop- 
 ment, aud in no sense a divination. 
 
 For these reasons the Dress Aseociation was destined to certain 
 failure, and it is matter for coosratalation rather than regret 
 that the capital was only $250,000. If it had been twice as 
 large it might have lasted twice as long, bat would havH 
 ended in tbe same way. It may be added that if want of 
 capital was the canse of the failure, it is another and sivnal com- 
 mentary on the badness of the management, since more oapitol was 
 ofilsred in the beginning than was accepted, and a large sam was 
 retnrned to subBcribers after it had actually been paid in. This erru^, 
 if it be one, ia ascribed to the London expert in joint-stock store- 
 keeping who was brought here to set the machinery goii'g, and wbo of 
 course brought with him only London experience, which is a very 
 difftirei't thing from New York experience. If Mr. Palbrook, an early 
 manager, was wrong, those who brought him here were still more Bh 
 
 Thi'i is a very instructive accoant. When it ia added that 
 "6,000 leading men and women throughout the country were 
 the holders of its capital " any reader can see how large a 
 number of persons were interested in co-opeiation, and how 
 great a pity it was that they should have reason to distrqst it;. 
 
 Mr. Joseph Medhill, proprietor of the Chicago Tribune, to 
 whom reference has already been made, on giving evideuce 
 before the Senate Sab-committee on Labour &,Tid Education, 
 thus spoke on " Oo-operation as a Labour Remedy," which 
 shows that the policy of associative production is no better 
 understood in America than distributive : — 
 
 " At one time," Mr. Medhill said, " oo-operation war bopefnlly 
 regarded a<< the aolution of the capital and labour contention, but 
 after many trials and failures its advocates are beonming discouraged, 
 aud it is fading oat as a feasible remedy for the ills of labour. Curuitt 
 obstaoles deeply groanded in human nature are encountered. The 
 
LITKBATUBE OF ASSOCIATION. 
 
 133 
 
 faadamental idea wm to pay the workmen the fall market price for 
 their labonr, regardlen of the qaeation of profit and Iom by the nana* 
 faotarer, and if the works mtde any profit over interest on capital, to 
 divide it with the operatives ; bat u the factory lost money then let 
 the stockholders stand it. The tvoable was to find capitalists who 
 were willing to invest their money on these terms, as the final oatcome 
 pretty certainly led to bankraptoy. Where the experiment was tried 
 it was fonnd that the workmen themselves soon became dissatisfied 
 with the resnlts of co-;jperation. If the mill made losses, or small 
 dividends, they found fanlt with the management, or snspected its 
 honesty, and appointed committees of investigation who quarreled 
 with the owners. Dispates also arose as to who should be discharged 
 in dnil times, and about wages when the shop was not finding ready 
 sales for its wares. Another source of discontent x%b the payment of 
 equal wages and equal dividends to inferior or negli(t> . ^t workmen, who 
 manifestly did not earn their money in the eyes of the better workmen, 
 and thus reduced the profits and dividends of the establishment. On 
 the old plan the trades-union lodge insist that all workmen shall be 
 paid alike, regardless of skill or value of service, as the losii from 
 unfaithful or deficient work falls on the employer alone. Many other 
 causes of weakness and disintegration manifested themselves ; but 
 probably the worst of all wss the ignorance of the foreign workmen, 
 which bred suspioion, destroyed confidence, and rendered harmony and 
 steady united efibrt of worker and employer impoasible. The co- 
 operative experiments have therefore all failed, except in a few naoes 
 where the conditions happened to be peculiarly favourable. When 
 these people are better educated in the future, and both sides have 
 studied the subject more thoroutthly, co-c^ji ■- tion may succeed, to 
 some extent, at !<»•&'-. Till then we must wait MUd hope." 
 
 The wildnesB of idea whioh pervaded these efforts at 
 co-operative partnerships wonld be inoredible on any anthority 
 less than Mr. Medhill's. No wonder they all failed. The 
 wonder woald be if they snoceeded. Associative education , 
 indeed common sense, is widely wanted if the mad tricks 
 Mr. Medhill describes were ever devices of co-operation, 
 
 My impression is that there is more associative literature 
 in America than in England. There is less co-operative 
 practice, owing to the impetnosity of the people, whioh 
 never panses long enough to sncceed in it. Of community life, 
 to which co-operation is intended to lead, there is far more 
 in America than here, and far more books and publications 
 concerning it. The first co-operative book of mine which 
 appeared in America was published by Samuel Leavitt. He 
 has sent me a book of hia own, one of several of which he is 
 the author, eucitled, " Peacemaker Grange." The subject is 
 really "co-operative living and working;" it contains the 
 illustrations of the FamilistSre of Guise— from Harper's 
 Monthly — very interesting illustratione they are. 
 
 
 '! 
 
 
 10 
 
184 
 
 THE TERM '•SETTLER' — 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 THE TERM "SETTLER." — EMIGRANT TRAINING. — THE FACTORY 
 TOWN AND THE PRAIRIE. — DISTRIBUTION OF PEOPLE AS WELL AS 
 PROFITS. — JOURNALS IN DOUBT. — OBJECTS OF THE AUTHOR 
 STATED.— A SUGGESTIVE LETTER. 
 
 The term settler is a better one to nse than emigrant. 
 The emigrant is one who moves from one place to another. 
 Sometimes he is made to move, in that sense vhe word is not 
 attractive. It is generally nnderstood that an emigrant is 
 one who not only leaves one country for another, bnt leaves 
 it of his own motion and with the intention of trying his 
 fortune in another land. The term settler implies an 
 emigrant with a defined object — that of establishing a home 
 elsewhere — not merely of seeking some fortune and of seeing 
 if anything will turn up. The settler has a settled purpose ; 
 he intends not so much seeking a fortune, his purpose is to 
 make it. And he who means to be a settler takes precautions 
 and makes preparation to that end. He provides himself 
 with some capital as far as he can, gets all the knowledge he 
 can of where he is going, and acquires as far as he can the 
 habits of the life he intends to lead. The settler needs 
 training more than the soldier. The soldier has officers to 
 keep him up to the mark — the resources of the settler are 
 commonly in himself alone. The more I know of emigration 
 the more important seems to me the training of intending 
 settlers. Isolated emigration ought to be superseded by co- 
 operative colonies. Then emigration would be enterprise 
 without dreariness or peril. What intrinsic charm settling in 
 the country has to hopeless workmen in the " Factory Town," 
 my friend, the late Ernest Jones, vividly described in his 
 poem under that name : — 
 
 The night h^d pnnk aloog the city, 
 
 It was a bleak and oheerleSR hoar ; 
 The wild winds Bang their Bolemn ditty 
 
 To oold grey wall and blackened tower. 
 
 The faotorieg gave forth larid Urea 
 From p<*ct-up hells within their breasts ; 
 
 E'en F'^ <'n barring wrath expires, 
 Bat man's voloanoes never rest. 
 
THE FACTORY TOWN AND PRAIRIE. — 
 
 180 
 
 > 
 
 One freeh tonoh of dewy grMsefl, 
 Jnat to oool the Bhrivelled hand I 
 
 Jnst to oatoh one breeze that panes 
 From Bome ehady forest land. 
 
 Hear ye not the secret sighing 1 
 And the tear drop thro' the night f 
 
 See ye not a nation dying 
 For want of rest, and air and light ? 
 
 Take ns back to lea and wildwood, 
 
 Baok to nature and to thee I 
 To the child restore his ehildhood— 
 
 To the man his dignity ! 
 
 Had the poet been an emigrant he had altered this song. 
 " Dewy gifasB " is very soarce where the snn scorches. 
 Malaria lurks in the "shady forest land." The "lea" is 
 very bleak, and the "wildwood" wants lots of chopping. 
 Instead of the " child" getting "childhood" it gets the fever, 
 and " man's dignity " is stretched in a shroud of buffalo 
 grass. The successful settler gets all the blessed change the 
 poet sings of ; but in other cases the prairie has its horrors 
 as well as the " Factory Town." 
 
 Mr. W. F. MuNRo, some time ago agent in Glasgow of the 
 Canadian Pacific Bailway, has shown in his "Emigration 
 Made Easy " * how simply and eaoily concerted emigration is 
 possible. Associative emigration is the thing. The want 
 of knowledge by settlers is apparent in ways unnoticed. 
 Bishop HuBST, of the Methodist Episcopal Church, mentioned 
 to me at Santa F^, that the " Guide Book of Illinois," forty 
 years ago described Kansas as barren, save as to buffalo 
 grass, which was then regarded as a sign df infertility. It is 
 only of late years that the settler has found better information. 
 The truth is, people in America need information about 
 the country in which they live. Now York, or Philadelphia, 
 needs a guide book as much as London or Manchester, and 
 emigrant education also. America needs to clear her crowded 
 cities as much as we do in England. It is m^re inattention 
 which regards a guide bock as being of mere European use. 
 The distribution of population is as much a social necessity 
 as the diffusion of wealth. Everywhere both people and 
 prolibs want spreading about. While I was abroad, the Inter- 
 OcetM, of Chicago, corrected misapprehensions, as it held 
 them to be, of the Chicago Times, concerning Dacota. It is 
 clear that were the facts made known, this perplexing dubiety 
 
 
of knowledge would cease. The Times, i( I remember rightly, 
 addnced the authority of the Qovernment surveyor, who 
 declared Dacota to be a " raiuless desert," which is all the 
 while a prodigy of fertility. 
 
 The St. Louis Republican, writing of the " Kind of Immigra- 
 tion Wanted " (Feb. 11, 1883), said :— 
 
 Mr. Holyokke is the energetilo Engliehmui who in aoUng so vigoroa»)y 
 to develop praotioal reanlts from the theory of Lord Derby and Mr. 
 Bthmnel Smith, that it is worth while for England to spend millions on 
 emigration. He has foand great diffloalty in obtaining reliable informa- 
 tion which woald warrant • oonsoientions man In sendiog emigrants 
 from their native shores to begin life in strange lauds. In order to 
 provide f>migrantB with means of being intelligent, Mr. Holyoake has 
 travelled widely ia America, aommanioating especially with the national 
 and local anthoritiea in the United Sl^^ates and Oanada, and seeking to 
 enlist them in his work. 
 
 The Neiv York Tribune, to which, as in 1879, the public were 
 
 indebted for accurate accounts of the object of these travels, 
 
 contained (Oct. 30, 1883) the following passage ; — 
 
 As will be seen from one of onr Washington dispatoheH, Mr. George 
 Jacob Hohoake's recent tonr in the West to collect information for 
 the beneSt of Europeans who have had more than they want of their 
 own country, has been attended with eatiefaotory resnlta. Whether 
 it is desirable or not to incite immigration, it cannot he prevented ; 
 and it is better that it shonld be wisely directed than be left as h cow 
 is. to snfier from misdirection or no direction. If the fact that this is 
 no conntry tor men who do not want to work had been propt^rly made 
 known abroad, perhaps a good many nndesirabie people wonld not 
 have inflicted themselves upon ns. 
 
 Mr. E. R. Russell, the editor of the Liverpool Daily Post 
 
 (Eng.) gave (April 26, 1883) his impressions of lectures 
 
 delivered in that city by me, which will inform the reader 
 
 on better authority than my own, the nature and conditions 
 
 of that emigration which alone I depict as useful where it 
 
 becomes necessary. Mr. Russell says : — 
 
 Many may sappose that Mr. Holyoake is simply preaching np emigra- 
 tion. Bat this ia a mistaken idea. Mr. Holyoake travels half over 
 the world, and has secured cooGiderable aBsiotance and semi-official 
 authority from Her Majesty's ministers not to advise or promote or 
 facilitate emigration, hut to advise, promote, and facilitate that previous 
 education without which emigration is likely to be to large numbers of 
 emigrants, if not a trap and a deceit, at least a disappohitment. Mr. 
 Holyoake starts with the postnlate that a vast proportion of the next 
 and tolloninff generations will have to emigrate. His next postulate 
 is that weavers, tailors, and other men following comparatively sedentary 
 and inactive oocupations, cannot make a good thiug of emigration if 
 they are suddenly plumped down into the midst of eligible but ut>re- 
 olaimed land, without any fdea how land should be reclaimed. This 
 is only one instance of a hundred variations of incompetency owing to 
 anpreparedness which must occur if emigrants are to he encouraged 
 
OBJECTS OF THB AUTHOR STATED. — 
 
 187 
 
 to RO oat without previoas teaching and ioformation. Mr. Holyoake'a 
 third postalate, we Bhonld Bay, woold he that comparatiTely little can 
 be done to prupare perBons who have aotnally made np their mindB to 
 emiKrate. Bat, fourthly , he will Bay, and does say, that every meaoB, 
 direot and indirect, ahonld be t'^ken to famtliariBe the people, and 
 espeoia.ly the yoang, not merely with emigration and the oonntrieB to 
 which people emigrate, bnt with ideas and images and experienceB of 
 travel, adventure, and enterprise in new lands. 
 
 If Mr. Holyo&ke Wbre for England that education minister who, in 
 France, said that, by tonobing a bell, he could ascertain what reading 
 lesson was that moooent being gone through by every class of boys in 
 the country, he would, we imagine, require a very great proportion of 
 the reading lessons to be such as would give young people a predilection 
 for oat-door life, for agrioaltural poraaits, for land oleariog, for the 
 rearing of far animals, and for alt the pursuits which must \m followed 
 in order to et a livelihood, and to Have money in a new country. 
 Tblfl ought to be a very fruitful idea. Itia one upon which Lord Derby 
 himself, as Oolonial Secretary, might make a very telling speech in hlB 
 betit and most interesting vein And it is one Mr. Holyoake . . . 
 ought to frcf ^y encourage and help to carry out. Fortunately, whoever 
 does this (ffioiently will have the htrnrty sympathy of the colonial 
 authorities everywhere, and there is every prospect of his striking the 
 imagination of the common people in w manner that will long coiaiaue 
 to bear good frait. 
 
 Ic these two final chapters I bring together the best judg- 
 meDts given me upon the subject on which I write. Mr. J. 
 S . PoDE, to whom I addressed some inquiries, and who had 
 real experience as a settler, wrote me a letter of so much 
 practical sagacity, that to quote it will be instructive in a 
 high degree to settlers and friends of settlers who are un- 
 aware how many considerations are involved in land choosing 
 in a strange country. Mr. Pode thought I was land buying, 
 and might not be aware that however I might consult an 
 agent, I ought to be in a position finally to depend upon 
 myself in my choice, and, therefore, kindly wrote to me 
 thus : — 
 
 If the land agent who might he endeavouring to Bell you land 
 was worth bis pivlt, no auiouut of questioning would avail yon. 
 Satisfy yourHelf, then, as to the actual production of the district you are 
 visiting, for as 1 jng a period as you can get at, and take the average. 
 There may be districta where twenty-eight to thirty-five bushels of 
 wheat may be grown to the acre. This wonld be set down by Vendora 
 as the average of the State or territory. It is essential to find out how 
 lone it will ba from the time of breaking the sod, before a fair crop of 
 grain may be looked for. If a fnrmer has to wait three years before 
 he gets a pajing crop, hp will want a large capital at bin back. It is 
 essentiHl to learn what the price of wheat is on the ground (not in the 
 Obicago market), aa soon as the grain is thrashed. A farmer gets 
 siok of laying out money, and may not be able to wait for his grain to 
 get to market and the money to come back. I have seen excellent 
 wheat that could not find a purchaser at 25s. a bushel. I do not 
 know how it is !n Canada, bnt in the States there is published once a 
 
year — if not more— » Hit of deftnlters in their land tax. Tliia is pcb- 
 liflhed in the looai newspaper. Examine it olosely. If the list is a 
 long one, jon don't want any land in that diatrlot. The vendors will 
 pay their rates if th« land is worth onltivating. My advice is, of 
 oonrse, dri't let an>body yon knowbny land, nntil they have paased 
 a winter in the neighbourhood. Let them hire themselves oat for their 
 board and lodging. After they have tried a winter, let them hire a 
 farm on shares — ^ways keeping enough money in hand to pay their 
 panage back to England — by that time, anyone who is not a fool will 
 see hoiv the oat jampn. Be oarefnl of the railway lands ; thtir titles 
 are often inseoore. Betides, they are only granted alternate sec i ma, 
 and the other seotiona which are not theirs, are jast M Rood land, and 
 are naturally to be had cheaper The bankern of any district can give 
 yon the bdst information i bat it is donbtfol If they will, for they bold 
 mortgages on most of the land, and are, of conrse, anxioaa that pnr- 
 ohaseis shonid enable them to realise their seenrities. Of oonree it the 
 reidon yon cast yonr eye npon Is a virgin one, information mnat be 
 flooght at the nearest: inhabitBd place. There is one more point and 
 an important one. Find ont, if possible, whether daring the month of 
 Angnat there is a week or ten days wet weather. I have noticed that 
 a " wet spell *' ooonrs annually aboat the middle of harvest. It was oer* 
 tainly so in Minnesota, and may not be ooDflned to that State. 
 
 A poetess, Eliza Cooke, sings of that nnseeing enthnsiasm 
 which is always popular, beoattse it is nnhampered by 
 conditions : — 
 
 The hills have been high for man's mounting, 
 
 The woods have been dense for his axe. 
 The stars have been thick for his counting, 
 
 The sands have bten wide for bis tracks, 
 The sea has been deep for his diving. 
 
 The poles have been wide for his way ; 
 Bnt bravely he's proved, in his striving. 
 
 That where there's a will there's a way. 
 
 What is left out is the fact that much excellent *' will " is 
 blind, and sees no way. Many men have the fine will of 
 progress and die in it. It is to enable them to find out the 
 way with less peril than heretofore that these chapters have 
 been written. 
 
 m 
 
ATMOHPUERIO ENEROY — 
 
 180 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 ATMOSPHEBIC ENEBOY. — MYSTERIOUS PAEOELS. — AM INCIDENTAL 
 BEQUEST, — SMABT MEN. — GENEROSITY OF PBOTBCTIONISTS. — 
 THREE POETS IN FAVOUB OF IT. — SINOULAB NOTICE ISSUED BY 
 MB. DICKENS IN AMERICA. 
 
 There is, nndonbtedly, a dash of dare-devilism in the air of 
 America. Its ozone does excite somewhat the baoolio 
 imagination of damp Enrope. If Montezuma's fires bnmed 
 noy in the silent recesses of Mexico, a speculator would run 
 up against it and upset it. Travellers get to think less of 
 danger ; they see so many people running into it for amuse- 
 ment. The air inflates the mind, nothing else accounts for 
 the expansion of the truth, so manifest in popular speech ; 
 yet artists in exaggerations and incongruities, like Abtbmus 
 Wabd and Josh BnxiNas, never mislead you. The sparkles 
 of their extravagances are like the tail of the comet, you 
 never mistake it for the head — it merely makes yon look at 
 the head all the more, while the unskilled observer so contuses 
 fact and fancy, that you never know where fact ends and 
 fancy begins. 
 
 One day I had a communication from the treasurer of 
 Fbank Lesue's paper, saying that shortly after I left America, 
 in 1879, they had received two registered parcels from San 
 Francisco. Supposing they might contain some valuables (at 
 least some gold nuggets), they hesitated to forward them to 
 Europe lest they should be lost, and kindly kept them looked 
 npfor me until my return. When the precious and portentous 
 parcels were obtained and opened with suppressed trepida* 
 tion, they were found to contain particulars of some laud in 
 California the writer wanted to dispose of. My friends had 
 spoken to me of the existence of this mysterious deposit, 
 kept so honourably and so long in store for me. They sur- 
 mised that good fortune had at length befallen me, and that 
 I ought to have come over earlier to get it. I cannot say 
 that the parcels were really opened with palpitating heart. 
 Experience has saved me from tumults of expectancy ; never 
 having had occasion for excitement of that nature, I had less 
 
140 
 
 PROTECTION BTATKD BY HEMBY WARD BEECHER — 
 
 onriosity tbao my friend (who proooxed the packets for me) 
 as to what they contained. But the sterility of its enolosare 
 was far below even my anticipation, and we were all rewarded 
 by laughter. 
 
 As a rale, specnlative inquirers do not lose things for want of 
 asking for. An agent, of whom I knew nothing, engaged my 
 attention by apparently taking a friendly interest in me,and end - 
 ing by asking me to be good enongh to give him 500 addresses 
 of friends of mine, to whom he might send an important com- 
 munication he had to make. I could not remember 500 
 friends at once. He is a lucky man who can remember fifty, 
 and it would take me a day to write out the names and 
 addressess of the 500 friends if I had them. It is ail very 
 well to ask when need warrants, but not to over-ask. Whether 
 this was an American or imported habit, I did not discern ; 
 and it would be silly to impute to a people what might be 
 but a peculiarity of a few — and they, peradventure, not indi- 
 genous inquisitors and acquisitors. 
 
 America has honest people in i*', as honest and self-denying 
 as any in England — still among those who have flocked to its 
 shores are many who never gave honesty a fair trial in 
 Europe, and have gone there under the impression that they 
 ctax do entirely without it in that country. Among those 
 who, with generous negligence, America permits to debouch 
 upon their shores are escaped convicts, forgers, or murderers. 
 There is assassination in the blood of many of the children 
 and in grown up people. You often hear the accent of petty 
 larceny in the phrases of what are called '* smart " men. 
 
 Of Protection I said nothing save to express my respect for 
 the forbearance of manufacturers and merchants, who might 
 double their charges since there is a general belief among the 
 working class that the more they pay for the commodities 
 they require the richer they get. With this virgin soil of 
 credulity to work upon all tariffs might be doubled. The 
 Rev. Henby Ward Beecheb, who has fine, piercing, secular 
 eyes, says that the high tariff almost entirely releases wealth 
 from taxation, and lays most of the burden on the labouring 
 classes. But this is no concern of Englishmen. It is indeed 
 a compliment to us that they who fear no soldier and covet 
 no monarchy, fear competition with English workmen, 
 who, though trained under the crown, are more than a 
 match for these sons of the Republic. Experience and 
 thought among working people can alone reform the 
 theory of protection. It vnll be sustained so long as 
 
 ( 
 
\ 
 
 DEFINED BY OOLDWIN SMITH. 
 
 141 
 
 ■ 
 
 the maBses believe that the oonntry " can be taxed 
 into prosperity," as Ooldwin Smith pats it. They oannot 
 under that opi lion do better than keep Protection ap. 
 Manofaoturers and dealers have no motive and no interest 
 to teach them better. Free trade can make no impression 
 on masters of produoti(»n; the persons to be addressed 
 are the toiling consnniers. Mr. T. B. Potter and the 
 Oobden Club should give their attention to them. Protection 
 increases their wages 10 per cent, and charges them 300 per 
 cent more for things of comfort. They are as bad or worse 
 iu point of sense than the English workmen in the old days, 
 who were always ready to cheer their " betters," who robbed 
 them of a pound and gave them twopence back. Nevertheless, 
 the Protectionists are generous fur they might give only a 
 penny back, and the American and Canadian workmen would 
 still feel under enthusiastic obligation to them for the two 
 cents, in exchange for the three hundred clandestinely 
 extracted from their earnings. 
 
 When in Boston I went to the best Bible sto^ 3 1 could find 
 or be directed to, to purchase a copy of the apocryphal books 
 of the Old Testament. In a church where I had to make a 
 discourse, I wanted to read the dialogue between the prophet 
 EsDBAS and the angel Ubiel. The only copy I could obtain 
 was on poor, thin paper ; of small, almost invisible print, and 
 meanly bound. The price was 4s. 2d. " How is it," I inquired, 
 " that you ask so much in the Hub of Universe for even this 
 indifferent portion of scripture — seeing that at the House of 
 the Society for the Promotion of Christian Knowledge, in 
 Northumberland-avenue, London, a house ten times hand- 
 somer than yours, in a much more costly situation — I can 
 buy the same book on good, strong paper, in large type, in a 
 bright, substantial cover for exactly 3s. less than yon ask 
 me." " You see, sir," said the manager of the store, " we 
 have duty to pay." •• Duty," I exclaimed. •' Do you mean 
 me to understand that in this land of Puritan Christians, 
 you tax the means of salvation ? " He did not like to admit 
 that, and could not deny it, so after a confused moment he 
 answered: "All books imported have to pay 25 per cent 
 duty." All I could say was that " it seemed to me that their 
 protective duties protected sin; and, being interested in 
 the welfare of emigrants, I must make a note counselling 
 them who wish to be converted, to get that done before 
 coming out ; for if they arrived in America in an unconverted 
 state they could not afford to be converted here." I was 
 
 I 
 
quite unprepared to find the Bible protected from being read 
 hi Boston. 
 
 It mnst in jnstlce to the working class be confessed that 
 there are thnae men of mark among the educated class who 
 have their faith in thie virtues of protection. On February 17, 
 1883, a petiiilon was presented to the Senate, praying that 
 the duty upon books imported should remain at 25 per cent, 
 which petition bore the signatures of Ouver Wendell 
 Holmes, Jobn G. Whittieb, and T. B. Aldbich. Their 
 reasons for taxing books were (1) that America should not be 
 flooded with cheap books, (2) that the minds of Americans, 
 and especially of American children, should not be perverted 
 by foreign ideas. It seems incredible that sneh a document 
 as this could bear such honoured signatures. We honour in 
 England; Whittieb, and Holmes, and Aldeioh. Do they 
 think it would be well that we should protect the " minds of 
 Englishmen, and especially of English children, from being 
 perverted by [theirj foreign ideas." We have as large a 
 stock of native ideas ou hand as America has, and can as 
 well subsist without importing theirs as they can without 
 importing ours. 
 
 Yet these eminent terrorists, who take alarm at our " per- 
 verting" ideas, are not without generous sentiments of 
 regard for us. One of them, Mr. T. B. Aldbich, has lately 
 published the following lines on England, which echoes the 
 disinterested regard which reverberates in millions of 
 American hearts : — 
 
 Wbile men pay reverence to mighty things. 
 Thev mast revere thee, thoa blae-oinotnreri Me 
 Of Eogltind— not to-day, bnt this long wbile 
 In the front of nations, mother of great hin^^s, 
 Soldiers and poets. Boand thee the sea flioga 
 His Bteel-briftht arm, and sliielcis thee from the gnile 
 And hnrfc^of France. Secure, with angiist smile, 
 Thon [littest, and the East its tribute brin^^s. 
 Some Bay iby old-time power ia on the wsiip. 
 Thy mooD. of grandear, filled, oontraots vc length — 
 They see it darkening down from lesp '«o less. 
 Let bnt a hostile hand make threat again, 
 And they shall see thee in thy anoieat streagth, 
 Each iron sinew qoivering, lioness 1 
 
 When Mr. Dickens was last in America, the Boston Adver- 
 tiser printed the following intimation from Mr. Geobge Dolby, 
 Mr. Dickens's agent : — " It in Mr. Dickens's invariable custom, 
 when giving public readings, to devote himself entirely to it 
 as a business, and to accept no friendly invitations which 
 
STRANGE NOTICE FBOM MB. DICKENS. 
 
 148 
 
 would tend to take up his time and distract his attention. 
 It is quite likely that he will feel compelled to pnrsne the 
 same coarse in America, and to decline without exception the 
 offers of hospitality which will undoubtedly be extended to 
 him from all sides. This is, perhaps, unfortunate, for — not 
 to speak of private disappointments — Mr. Diokkns is an acute 
 observer at all times, and our hotels are not the best places 
 to study American character." When this was brought to 
 my notice it seemed instructive. Then I was glad that I was 
 not a lecturer seeking engagements, or I should have known as 
 httle of the United States and its people as Mr. Dickens. 
 Such a notice was an affront to American courtesy to strangers 
 for whom respect had been conceived. Mr. Dickens's fate 
 was to be taken from platform to platform, like Jumbo, or a 
 giant, or a midge of remarkable proportion — clandestinely ; 
 ind when he had shown himself to persons who had paid to 
 bee him, he was withdrawn into a committee-room, his face 
 wiped, and his hair combed, a little egg and sherry beaten up 
 and administered to him, and then he was secretly transferred 
 to a sleeping car, and no more seen till he rose through the 
 trapdoor of the next stage on which he had to appear. If Mr. 
 Dolby's unblusbing notice had never appeared he would have 
 been quite safe from intrusions of hospitality. As soon as it is 
 known that a visitor's business is to make money, American 
 gentlemen look upon him from a purely commercial point of 
 view, and would regard an invitation given to him as inter* 
 feting with the receipts of the agents who owned him, since 
 many who would see him privately might be content with 
 that pleasure, and not take seats for his readings. As Mr. 
 Dickens was already rich, it does not seem worth while that 
 he should appear before a great people who had genuine 
 admiration for him, as a mere collector of dollars. He would 
 not have lost a thousand dollars if he had gone among them as 
 an English gentleman. It is true that the American nation is 
 no great friend of authors, since it " nations tises " their copy- 
 rights, to use the new Georgian jargon. Still one could wish 
 that since our favourite novelist had publish 3d for circulation 
 *' Notes on American " manners, he had presented them with 
 a personal sample of English quality which they might look 
 upon with respect. 
 
144 
 
 NATIONAL HONOUR. — 
 
 LAST CHAPTER. 
 
 T 
 
 ^i 
 
 U is 
 
 k 5,1 
 
 h 
 
 NATIONAL HONOUR. — RESPONSIBILITY OF ELECTORS — COBITE CO- 
 OPERATION. — INDUSTRIAL DIGNITY. — EDUCATION OF SETTLERS. 
 THE FUTILE TERRORS OF TRANSITION — THE AUTHOR'S OUT- 
 LOOK. 
 
 It is beoanse the " politician " in America works mainly 
 for spoils that the name is in disrepute. The system which 
 gives all ofBices over to the winning party at an election of the 
 president, attracts venal politicians, and causes the politicians 
 of probity to stand aloof from dnty to the State. Artemus 
 Ward said, " I am not a politician, and my other habits air 
 good. I have alius sustained a good moral character. I was 
 never a railway director in my life." In America, as in Eng- 
 land, the sense of responsibility for morality in public affairs 
 is increasing among men of culture and wealth, it is coming 
 to be regarded as criminal in them to stand aloof from muni- 
 cipal and national life. Republicans in America relate of one 
 who being neutral, when action for principle was needed, 
 was accused of having gone over to the opposite party ; he 
 denied being a Democrat, but admitted that he had the 
 symptoms. In like manner, indifference to the honour of 
 public life is now understood as connivance in its corruption, 
 and they who do nothing personally to purify the State by 
 their own action, may deny their guilt — bet they caLuot 
 deny that they have all the symptoms of participation in it. 
 The decay of right principle in the mind is quite as 
 obvious in persons as the decay of physical health. 
 The consumption of honour, good faith, and reverence 
 has its signs in speech and action as plainly as the 
 pale face and hectic flush pertaining to consumption of 
 the lungs. The doom of immorality of mind is the same 
 as the doom of disease—death, unless the symptoms 
 are radically checked. Both forms of disease are equally 
 manifest to the eyes of any practised observer. The only 
 difference is that those who die physically are buried ; while 
 the morally dead still walk the park or the street, but their 
 decayed souls nevertheless poison the circumambient air. 
 
 The principle of inculcating a sense of responsibility of 
 
i' 
 
 some kind on the part of voters was undermined in the 
 American mind by a famons speeoh of Franklin's, which was 
 repeated to me in the Hall of Independence, in Philadelphia, 
 by one who regarded as conolnsive his argnment, which 
 decided the open suffrage of the country. '* If you give a 
 vote to property," said Franklin, " suppose a man's qualifi- 
 cation is the ownership of an ass, when the ass dies, does his 
 citizenship cease ?" The story was a century old, but it had 
 perfect freshness in the mind of the reciter of it, who con- 
 sidered the absurd-looking issue as warranting the non-pro- 
 vision of any qualification for citizenship. I confess it seemed 
 to me that Franklin's argument of the ass was only fit to 
 impose upon one of that species. The possession of property 
 is thought by all communities to be a guarantee that he who 
 has it, is more likely to vote for its security than he who has 
 none. It he who possessed only a five-dollar donkey was 
 considered to have sympathy with property (without which 
 no civilisation is possible) when the donkey died the 
 sense of property died in the owner, if he had no 
 other possession. If, instead of a five-dollar ass, the voter's 
 sole qualification was a £5 note, if some one stole it from 
 him, or the bank broke in which he had deposited it, and h^ 
 was left penniless, the sense of possession of property would 
 be no longer left to him, and he might become reckless, as 
 penniless men usually do. There may be other things higher 
 than the possession of property which should constitute the 
 qualification for citizenship. It may be education in the 
 duties of citizenship — it may be mere womanhood, or mere 
 manhood — but if the condition taken as sufficient is that of 
 property, the possession of a donkey or a pig is as good a 
 qualification as the possession of a donkey-house or a pig* 
 house — of a hunting stable or a mansion. I am one of those 
 who think manhood or womanhood a sufficient qualification 
 for citizenship in any State, where social education, by pre- 
 cept and example, is strexmously maintained, and all the 
 conditions under which private interest can be pursued at 
 the expense of the State— rendered, as far as they can be, 
 impossible. 
 
 Mr. John Qledhill, representative buyer in New York for 
 the English and Scotch Wholesale Societies, gave important 
 evidence before the Senatorial Committee on Education and 
 Labour, on the " benefits to be derived from co-operation." 
 As an exposition of the economic, social, and pacific force 
 of co-operation, Mr. Oledhill's testimony is a distinct and 
 
146 
 
 OOBITB CO-OPERATION. — 
 
 
 authoritative addition to the national knowledge of America 
 upon this subject. I have sufficiently expressed in these pages 
 my opinion that co-operation is a new force in civilised States, 
 introducing equity in industry and rendering morality profit- 
 able in commerce. There is a mineral now found in Missouri 
 called Adam's cobite, so hard that it will cut steel without 
 losing its edge. Oo-operation is the " cobite " stone of social 
 progressi which will cut through competition where it is 
 hardest, and its own quality remain unduUed. 
 
 By securing to industry the fruits of its labour, it alone 
 promises to restore lalraur to honour. This is the need of 
 England as it is of Aiserica. This has been shown with 
 insight and tot&i by Mr. Medhill, of the Chicago Times, whose 
 evidence before the Senatorial Committee ( wb^re Mr. Gledhill 
 gave testimony, as I have said) was as follows. The reader 
 need not be dismayed ; it is the last passage from others I 
 shall cite. Relevant quotations, 7. hold, are like stars in the 
 firmament of an author's statement, and are often the only 
 blight parts m it. What Mr. Mbohill said was this : — 
 
 The edaoktional Bysteqi of Ametioa — that practised by Ugh sohools 
 and oollesea — certainly doen not trala onr yonth in habits of naefnl in- 
 dastry. Its parpose is not to inoreaeu the effectiveneaH of labour, to make 
 " Two bladnn ot grass grow where ouly one grew before." It does not 
 show a popil how by acquiring a mannal art he can doable or treble 
 the valne of liia laboor. It does not teach art or science in a practical 
 way. On the contrary, college instrnotion is condaoted with the view 
 of impartiog dead langnages, elegant literature, and higher mathematics 
 to the students, wbiob is all well enough for the boys of the wealthy 
 leisure claBses, but is not best suited to eqoip the future bread-wioners 
 for their work. These academies attract hundreds of thousands of cur 
 youth whose purpose is to acquire the art of living by their wits and 
 avoiding mannal labour i and tois, too, is the purpose of their parents 
 in sendiuR them there. These schools have flooded the professions 
 tHtb men destitute of natural capacity for them, and have swollen 
 the ranks of offloe-seekers and speonlatora and professional sbarps 
 who subsist by pilfer and pillage. The American system of 
 education has pretty nearly destroyed all desire on the part 
 of our youths to learn trades and become artisans, and it has 
 crowded the ranks of the middlemen with swarms of seekers 
 after genteel employment at wretched wages. Multitudes of farmers' 
 and mechanics' sons seek to be salesmen, clerks, bookkeepers, or agents, 
 and failing to find or retain those situation!!, they become " sporis," 
 billiard -players, bar-tendera, ooufldence-meu — anythiog, in short, but 
 hand-soUing labourers. With the exoeption ot a few special branches 
 of iodnstry, Americans have surrendered the mechanical field to 
 foreigaerp, and when more artisans are needed they are imported like 
 other commodities. Every iastitntion of learning should teach art 
 practically, every college should have a teohnical department. We 
 need induBtj*iaI schools in every city where the youth can learn trades 
 that will equip them for the struggles of life, and increase the 
 
 O 
 
 .\i 
 
4 
 
 EDUCATION OF SBTTLERiJi.- 
 
 147 
 
 <k 
 
 prodootWeneBB ucl power of labonr nd eUvate it in tlie eyea of the 
 rising generation. Tboy most be tauRht to reepect, rather tluua 
 deepbe, handioraft, and to hold in higher esteem the working beei 
 than the drones in the hnman hive. 
 
 The modern folly of parents hurrying competition, and 
 foregoing all wise ^'^isnre themselves, in order to amass 
 money that their children may do nothing, breeds contempt 
 for labour. The remedy for this is industrial education, and 
 especially of that sort which fits the young i!or the inevitable 
 emigration which awaits them in over-populated countries. 
 
 If a mechanic wants to emigrate, he will be the better if 
 he has a friend who can procure him a situation ; or ascer- 
 tain himself in what district persons of his trade are 
 needed, otherwise he will do well to get what knowledge he 
 can, whicih a settlor on the land may need. 
 
 TelL farm laboui*ers that they should leave the fields for 
 Olerkenwell to mako watches, or go to Northampton to make 
 ladies' boots ; they would be discouraged exceedingly, and delay 
 their going. But to become farmers they would go gladly. I 
 have known watchmakers and shoemakers sent out to farm 
 work in foreign lands for which they were no more fit than 
 ploughmen are to make watches, or waggoners to be tailors. 
 
 The Canadian Government Guide Book, as the reader is 
 aware, has already conferred great advantage upon intending 
 settlers. It commences by wise and candid sentences, ex- 
 plaining who are the fit and the unfit, and advising the unfit 
 to stay where they are. As I stated (January 21, 1883) in a 
 letter to the Times, ** The Canadian Guide Book is written by 
 Mr. John Lowe, Chief Secretary of the Department of Agri- 
 culture, whose inexhaustible and exact knowledge of every 
 species of information needed by emigrants I had means of 
 judging by observation and report of those who knew more 
 than myself. The luminousness of the narrative, the variety 
 and newness of the information conveyed in it, will not less 
 interest than surprise the reader. Few are aware that 
 Canada is larger than the United States, and, has resources 
 of health, fertility, and riches inconceivable to those who 
 know it only through artists who paint its snows and not its 
 harvests and wondrous scenery. 
 
 " It is amazing that England should send out millions of her 
 sons to ' fight the wilderness ' in America and Canada, and 
 never give attention to emigrant edueation at home. If Lord 
 Derby should give heed to this neglected question, emigration 
 would need no votes to promote it in the next generation." 
 
We read in the history of ancient raoes that it was a prao- 
 tice to bary a faithful dog in the grave of its master, under 
 the impression that as a dog finds its way abont better than 
 a man, it wonld be nsefnl in the next world as a guide to its 
 owner. Every ma'i who goes to bury himself in America or 
 Canada would be the better for a dog guide book, to lead him 
 safely abont the new and pleasant world in wMch he will find 
 himself. 
 
 Though I have admitted that there are things, both in 
 Canada and America, that might be changed for the better, I 
 do not conceal from myself that there are many thiogs in 
 England that require amendment — political, moral, and 
 social. Yet I am persuaded that great waves of improvement 
 are sweeping over the world. Even within the period of my 
 own life changes for the better have been so much greater 
 than I expected to see, that this seems like a new world to me. 
 The eternal transition which is the law of all things, great and 
 small, inanimate and human, is the. result of the unseen force 
 which, never resting, never hasting, advances the affairs of 
 men. Every system which has fallen, every breed which has 
 been superseded, has, in every age, filled good men with dis- 
 may, as that which they thought perfect has been forsaken for 
 new ideals, and that upon which alone they were able to rely 
 for security or consolation has glided silently away before 
 them. The wail of alarm has been heard in every epoch in 
 the rear of the march of progress. I have no transition terror. 
 There is ever struggle, and pain, and conflict going forward ; 
 but there is greater peril in lingering in the darkness of decay, 
 when experience, and science, and truth, open new paths of 
 life and lig'ut before us. 
 
 THE END. 
 
was a prao- 
 kster, nnder 
 l>etter than 
 ^ide to its 
 America or 
 io lead him 
 be will find 
 
 ;b, both in 
 le better, I 
 r things in 
 loral, and 
 provement 
 iod of my 
 oh greater 
 >rld to me. 
 
 great and 
 iseen force 
 
 affairs of 
 which has 
 1 with dis- 
 rsaken for 
 t>Ie to rely 
 ay before 
 
 epoch in 
 ion terror. 
 
 forward ; 
 of decay, 
 
 paths of