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Written under the pressure of a calamity — by no means the first of the kind, as the reader will Hnd, though, from the pecular circumstances attending it, by far the heaviest, as its effects must shadow, in some aegree, the remainder of my life — no one can be more sensible than myself of the many imperfections of this, my first essay in the Held of literature, which ill health has also often compelled me to lay aside. Possibly, under happier circumstances, it might have been more worthy of perusal. As it is, I trust it to the indulgence of the reader. ' " :' 'A ' -r'f,, • v'i :•■.?';■. Quebec, June 1st, 1875. | C. E. H. No. 1 Grande Alice, ■*.•■! l^-'.'/.' 'l^jr-.m- "iM'S«'i-.?:'3: cv-..*v,i ■v^ Asx*r . S,' tarsaaaaaBSaoL / ' '11:1 -m All AUTOBIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF A TEACHER'S LIFE. CHAPTER FIRST. LIFE AS A PUPIL, My earliest recollections date from my fourth year, when a pupil of Miss Martin's. That worthy lady then wielded the sceptre in the vicinity of the Post Office. Her reign, however, must have been a mild one, for I can remember being often permitted to amuse myself, in school hours, standing on a chair behind her, and remodeling her coifture. But t^he could punish too, for as I write, visions of sundry boys stretched on their backs on the floor, with upheld slates, rise before me. Miss D , also figures in my memory amongst my earliest teachers, and also Miss Aspinall, whose success as a teacher of dancing will long be remembered in Quebec. Her balls for the exhibition of her pupils were very recherche affairs. When a mite of five or six years of age, I figured in one given to her scholars, at the Castle of St. Lewis, (the site of Durham Terrace) under the patronage of Lady Aylmer, when we executed the "Minuet de la Cour," the Crown Dance, the Polish and Quadrille Mazurkas, with waltzes, etc., ad libitum, very much to our own satisfaction, and doubtless in the highest style of the art. The present Countess of Errol was one of Miss A 's best pupils, and shone con- spicuously on the occasion. Some years after retiring from the profession. Miss A married Mr. P of Montreal. She died a few months ago, at an advanced age. In my sixth year, I was placed as a day scholar at the Ursuline convent. It was then the best school in the city for girls, and as an educational establishment, I think it has never been surpassed. Preceded the following year by practice on the piano at home, the hours of attendance, from eight o'clock, A. M., to five o'clock, P. M. fell rather heavily on so young a child. Very diminutive in size, I believe I was the youngest and smallest of the many hundreds, perhaps I might say thousands, who had ever passed those ancient portals. Reserved, quiet, and rather studiously inclined, the cloister life attracted me power- fully. The black-veiled nuns, with their dark flowing robes, the long and silent corridors, with their low, G mysterious looking doors — the religious services in the "(Jhnour" wliere tlio voices of the sisters mingled with the soft notes of the organ — the lighted and beautifully decorated altnr — all combined to cultivate my childish fancy, and the ardent aflection bordering on idolatiy, which [ felt for some of the kind nuns, completed the charm. "^ Even now, worn and s2)cnt with tlie battle of life, it re- freshes me to look back on those peaceful convent ilays, artd could my reason yield assent to the dogmas of the Roman Catholic Church, it is within those walls, that I would pass the remainder of my life. My teachers were the Mere St. A . Mere St. S , Mere de C , Mere St. B , Mere St. F. X , and Mere St. T , of all of whom I have the kindest recollections. The annual ex- aminations, attended by relatives and friends admitted by tickets, presented a pretty scene. The immense room was generally densely packed on every side. The walls and pillars, decked with evergreen and wreathed with roses, contrasted well with the white dresses of the pupils, each class distinguished by a different colored badge, a pink, green, scarlet or blue sash, worn over the left shoulder. After the more serious exercises in the arena of art and science, the company were enlivened by various little dramas, performed b}^ the pupils. Then came the thrilling moment i>receding the crowning of the victors — the parting address in the rich tones of good old Father Maguire, and the final announcement. — "Mes enfants, la seance est terminee." Commencing the study of music in my seventh year under the kind Mere St. F. X , my education in that branch was afterwards chiefly carried on by that very pep pery old gentleman, Mr. Codman. He was an enthusiast in music, and a good teacher, so far as that term can be applied to one totally wanting in patience. His pupils will long remember that swaying form at the piano, in constant motion, now bending to the right till his nose almost touched the keys, then rushing to the left. A false note was torture to him, and roused him to fury. He would storm, rave, dance and prance about the room, till the miserable delinquent was generally reduced to tears. But I never afforded him that gratification : mute, perfectly calm and unmoved, with folded hands, I waited till the storm passed over. He had a white slave, a youth who seemed to combine the offices of student and valet, and the life he held under that irascible old man was not pleasant. I doubt if ever a southern darkey, raised a heartier "jubilate" on Emancipation day than that poor boy. In spite of his infirmity of temper, Mr. C was a good man and much esteemed He died in Quebec in 1852. A tablet was erected to his memory in the cathedral of which he was organist. Let us hope he has joined the heavenly choir where there are no discordant notes. — / After remaining at the convent six years, I passed into the hands of Mrs. K , a rigid old English lady, with delicate health and an iron rule. Then Miss M took the reins. She was an excellent teacher and a thorough lady, who will ever ho affectionately romembored by her pupils in this city. A year at Miss F 's fasionable boarding school in Montreal, followed, chiefly associated in my mind with a series of skirmishes between the Principal and a few youths given to serenading, sending billets-doux hidden in cakes, etc., very much disposed also to share her close attendance on her Hook m their promenades and exhibiting a particularly strong devotion- al tendency on Sunday evenings. On my return home, a quarter with Mrs. C ended my school life as a pupil, shortly before the completion of my fifteenth year, though I was induced a few years later. to study Italian for two or three months, with Mr. B in company with a friend. Study at school, however, but lays the foundation to be built on in aftor years, and being very fond of readmg, I liave perhaps suffered less from my early withdrawal than I would otherwise have done. Could I then have raised the veil of the future, I would have applied myself vigorously to several distasteful, and therefore neglected branches, but my thorny path was mercifully hidden from my those most agreeable to me. eyes, and I cultivated only CHAPTER SECOND. LIPK AS A TEACHER, — AVAKRENTON, NORTH CAROLIXA. The death of my ever- lamented father, on the 12th May, 1852, was immediately followed by the dispersion of the household. I spent the summer with my kind relations in Montreal, and in the winter of that year, 1 made my debut as a teacher in a large boarding-school in Warrenton, North Carolina. It is, or was then, a small inland coimtry village, perhaps I ought to call it a town, at some distance from the railway, and reached by a lonely drive through the woods. It was my first meeting, face to face, with slavery, and though I am no rabid Abolitionist. I could not help being struck with the -'Sleepy Hollow'* air which seemed to pervade the whole place in every department. M The proprietor of the school was a large unwieldy, pomp- " ous and illiterate man, (che latter circumstance being V apparently no divsqual'fication for his election as Member of Congress) and totally unfitted for his post. One of these Washington luminaries enumerated in the list of curiosities brought home from a foreign tour — "a little Saliva from Mount Usubius'^ ! I — It was proposed to erect a monument to Calhoun, and his opinion being asked, he said he should vote "for a fuUlenglh bust"! I However Mr. T. did not teach in the Seminary, which perhaps was just as well. The prosperity of the establishment seemed — 8 in his opinion, to be mainly dependent on the early ex- tinction of the candles, and his daily cry, towards ten o'clock, P. M., "Put out them lights" was about the only injunction I ever remember to have heard from his lips. A common expression of his wife's — "powerful sorry" or " powerful glad " made a very powerful impression on me. The society at Warren hon was very small, but good ; and I was specially pleased with the kind attentions of Mrs. G., the wife of the Presbyterian minister. But at home, mis- rule reigned supreme ; we were treated with little or no attention by the proprietor and his family, and our discon- tent increased day by day. The corps of teachers was composed of two daughters of the Principal, three young ladies from the 8tate of New York, myself, and Mr. T., Professor of the piano and harp. I was teacher of French and AsHistant-Teacher of Music. The school house wi.s a few yards from the main building, but having stipulated for a bedroom to myself, (a sine qua non in every engage- ment I made) I received all my pupils in my room, which boasted the luxury of a sweet-toned piano, whence in the deepening twilight, with a dear friend by my side, my wandering chords often evoked "The light of other dayti." This friend was Miss F. of New York, the teacher of English, Mathematics, and Oil Painting, between whom and myself there soon sprung up a friendship which I count to this day among the most cherished of my life. She occupied a large room adjoining mine, which she shared with two other teachers, sisters from the same State. They were als^ extremely agreeable and pleasant company, and when the "Quartette" assembled in their rooms after school hours, with locked doors, they breathed freely, threw dignity to the winds, and gave themselves up to enjoyment, as far as circumstances would permit. Our festivity was of a very mild character, however, being limited, so far as I can remember, to the popping of corn, as we sat on the floor round the hearth, while the blazmg pine logs sent their cheerful light dancing all over the wall. Those were cozy hours. But outside all seemed "stale, flat and unprofitable." I counted time by mail days, which were tri- weekly, I think. Nobody ever seem- ed to reach Warreuton from the outer world^ and we felt completely cut oflF from it. Bochsa and Madame Anna Bishop, did, however, manage to get there once, (1 think the cars must have run off the track, or something of the kind) and we lived on the incident for weeks, Mr. T. was, however in my humble opinion, a superior harpist to Bochsa. He and his invalid wife occupied a little two- roomed cottage, on the Seminaiy grounds, quite close to the school and much of my leisure was spent with them, Mr. T.'s harp and chess board being irresistible attractions. His wife, a sweetly amiable woman, (from Upper Canada, I believe,) was hopelessly ill from a spinal complaint, but her patience and cheeriulness were a sermon in tnem- — 9 m- /■v i Bflves. She appeared to enjoy her husband's entrancing music a* much as I did; indeed, care, and pain, and sorrow seemed put to flight by that mas^ter touch. On the chequered Held, I met Mr. T. with more contidenoe, thougU my victories were always hardly won. Though the attentions of the wife of the Presbyterian minister might have been very naturally accounted for by the fact that I was then a member of that church, they were looked upon with a very jealous eye by the doughty M. C. and his family, more especially as the Kev. Mr. G. was also the Principal of a rival Academy. A series of petty slights and annoyances aggravated my discomfort and a proposition on the part of the Principal to add to the number of my music pupils out of school hours, unaccom- panied by any mention of remuneration for the extra labor, capped the climax. It was immediately answered by my resignation, for injustice and oppression ever rouse in me a spirit of the most determined resistance. My three friends and fellow teachers seemed al>o to have reached the limit of their powers of endurance, and very shortly after my departure, they returned together to the Nor.h. The sisters, the Misses P. also corresponded with me iir some years, and I once hr^ the pleasure of visiting them at their father's house, in Saratoga Co. N. Y.; but when the civil war broke out, (I was in South Carolina at the time) our corresponience gradually ceased. Though all my intersts lay in the North, and my dearest friends^ almost without exception, belonged by birth and senti- ment to that party, my sympathies, on the subject of Secession, were with the South. I never intruded my opinions but I scorned to disguise them when asked, and there were few friendships, which could stand the test of opposition on that subject in those days. The intense bitterness of spirit, displayed by Northerners and Southerners alike, obscured the judgment of many an otherwise noble and candid nature, which in calmer times, would have borne, with unruffled serenity, a friend's ex- pression of different views. My beloved friend, Miss F., was married a few years after, to a member of the New York Bar, a gentleman descended from a highly respect- able old English family. T have often visited them in their hospitable and well-ordered home, and I will only add that she has drawn a prize as well as he. They have a most interesting family, to whom I am " Aunt Carrie " and I trust ever will be. CHAPTER THIRD. MADISON, FLORIDA. Having accepted an otibr made, through my kind friend Mrs. G., by Mr. M., Principal of the Maclison Female Seminary^ I left Warrenton in May, 1853, and after a few days' visit to some distant rela'ives at Raleigh N. C, ^am — 10 — (which I enjoyed so much that I regretted not having had an opportunity of making their acquaintance earlier), I took the cars for Wilmington N. C, where I arrived on the third day, after a most tedious journey. Through trains seemed unknown, in that region, and the long hfeurs »of waiting at the wretched hotels on the route, were most wearisome. I was more fortunate, however, than on my first journey from New York to Warrenton. Then f was quite alone. Now [ had the company of Mr. and Mrs. D., as far as Wilmington, where Mr. I),, escorted me on board the Charleston steamer, which left soon after. The weather was rough and disagreeable and the boat so dirty and uncomfortable that I was glad to leave it on our arrival at Charleston the following morning. * My friendB, the Misses P., having kindly notilied their brother, I found him awaiting me, and after resting at the hotel, I availed myself of his guidance to do a little shop- ping. I was much pleased with this cursory view of the city, of which I was afterwards a resident for several months. At three o'clock P.M., Mr. P., left me on board the steamer <' Florida" bound for Jacksonville, Florida. This was a very superior vessel and commanded by a steady and experienced Captain. It seemed to me he could never have had a better opportunity for the display of his seamanship than the following night afforded. I have made many a sea-voyage since, but none I think in more boisterous weather. The rain fell in torrents, there was a strong head-wind and the pitching and tossing of the steamer seemed to my inexperience, something truly awful. I found it difficult, when apparently plunging down into eternity to believe the captain's assurance that we were in no danger. The crashing and staggering of the vessel as each great wave struck her, were not the most soothing of lullabies. Alone in my state room, I kept a light burning, and sat up all night ; indeed, I would havo f?"nd it almost impo;i?ible to maintain any other poi-ition. Th ^ dawn, however, broke over a smoother sea, and clearer sky. We reached Jacksonville that afternoon. It was then a small straggling town, about twenty-five miles from the mouth of the St. John's River. We had some twenty passengors on board, but I hardly saw one until within a few isiiles of port. They had vanished from the scene shortly after our departure from Charleston. As to myself I am happy to say that the maladie de mer is one with which I have hardly ever had the slightest acquaintance. Mr. M., was to have met me' in Jackson- ville, but on enquiring at the Hotel, I found that he had not vet arrived. This was a great disappointment. A fellow passenger, Mr. W., a lawyer returning to Madison, kindly «ftered his services as charioteer, but I concluded that there was nothing to be done but await Mr. M.'s arri'n'al with all the patience I could muster. Madison is situated in the interior, 160 miles from Jacksonville ; a n — stage coach, running at the time twice a week, carried the passengers and mail. The stage line made the transit in thirty-iix hours, without stopping, except for meals. Mr. M., was to bring his own carriage (*' buggy " I found was the proper term,) and horses, and 1 hoped thus to perform the journey with less fatigue. The hotel accommodations were not the most luxurious ; still, the rept I enjoyed by the detention was beneficial, and enabled me to have several pleasant Wilks about the town. It is a pretty place, though the scenery is very flat. The balmy air of this land ol Ponce de Leon, filled with the perfume of the magnolia, the oleandei, the jessamine, and a thousand others, — the fragrance of it>^ orange groves — and it? delic- ious climate, make it the favorite resort of invalids during the winter season. Mr. M., arrived on the third day, having been unavoid ably detained, and on the following morning at five o'clock, we set out on oui- long drive through the pine woods. We drove thirty eight miles that day, and I made my first acquaintance with a leg cabin that night, the road affording no other accommodntion. My bed-room was formetl of rough, unplaned, unpainted boards, and a wood- en frame, boarded over, was my bedstead, and the only piece of furniture. It gave one rather a novel sensation ^ during the night to hear the pigs grunting under the pianks, not too closely adjusted, which formed the flooring. There was no window in the loom, and a dark, heavy, nigged cloth was the substitute for a door. In fact, prim- itive simplicity reigned throughout the whole establish- ment. In the outer room, which was dining-room, parlor and kitchen combined, a basin, towel, comb and brush were provided for the impartial use of tlio travelling public, but I did not press my claim. The breakfast was all that could be expected., and not very much invigorated by my first experience of life in a log cabin, I rearmed my seat in the '* buggy." The roads were very bad, but Mr. M exerted himself to the utmost for my entertain- ment, giving me all his history and his wife's, including their courtship. We passed the second night in a build- ing which bore a closer resemblance to a house than anything I had seen since leaving Jacksonville, and on the evening of the third day, entering the little village of Madison, we drove through to the Seminary, which lay in the woods about a mile beyond, where, after introducing me to the Rev. Mr. A...... n,nd family, Mr. M left me to return to his own residence, on a plantation two miles distant. M". A was a Baptist minister, and with his wife, took charge of the domestic affairs of the Seminary, which also accommodated a few pupils as boarders. The A 's w.eie a numerous family; two of the daughters were "finished," one or two were pupils in the academy, and there were one or two mare little ones, toddling about with their attendant darkies. They were an exceedingly good — 12 l!ii natured set, and did all in their powei* to make me com- fortable, but their means vrere limited, and 1 soon found that the prospect was a very dreary one. The wind whistled through the large building in every direction, and from the centre on the first floor, you could look up through the rough, unpainted rafters, to the roof. The bare and scantily-furnished rooms had a most cheerless aspect. The fare was very miserable. Mosquitoes, sand- flies, fleas (not to mention other vampires) abounded, and their pointed attentions were almost too much for my equanimity at times. Mrs. M , and most of the ladies of Madison called on me promptly, and I found them, like southern ladies in general, frank, agreeable, well- bred and hospitable. But the distance from the village prevented rny enjoying as much of their society as I might otherwise have done in my leisure hours, even had I not felt too fatigued for company. Mr. M was under the control of a board of Trustees (when not under a more potent influence) and they became more and more dissatistied with his management or rather mismanage ment. His attendance was most irregular, sometimes only putting in an appearance two days in the week, the whole burden meanwhile resting on my shoulders. To the relief of all parties, he resigned the post two months after- wards, and the Trustees immediately ottered it to me for the remainder of the scholastic year. I accepted it hoping to procure the services of a friend m the Nfi'th as assist ant, but she was unable to come, and I was forced to rely on what assistance I could obtain in the neighborhood. At the close of the session, 1 received the most cordial expression of satisfaction from the Board, with a very complimentary otter of a renewed engagement, but my health was much impaired, and I determmed to mdulge myself with a rest in the society of my friends in the North. Before my departure, I got up a concert for the purchase of a new piano for the Seminary, and it went oft' with great erlat. The parents were delighted with the performance of my pupils, many of whom were unacquaint- ed with the flrst rudiments of music on my arrival. I had arranged some simple little airs as duets, and they acquit ted themselves so well tfeat I felt amply repaid for all the labor I had expended on them. My old friend and fellow passengei, Mr. W., who used to (X)me up now and then for a game of chess, was a valuable assistant to me on the. occasion. I parted with regret from my Madison friends particularly the P., family, with whom I kept up a corres- pondence long after. I was sorry, too, to leave my pupils, whom I had ever found docile and aftectionate. Southern girls are not perhaps, generally speaking, fond of study, but I have almost invariably found them intelligent and agreeable. Mr. M had proved as unreliable in finan- anoial as in other matters, and his debt to me remains unpaii to this day. Not having collected all the school — 13 — dues, the Trustees were only able to make a partial settle • ment with me on my departure, but tliey discharged their obligations fully a tew months later. I returned to Jack- lionville in the stage coach, under the care of Judge F whose kind attention relieved much of the tedium of the journey. There were two other passengers, also pleasant and and agreeable gentlemed. 1 was most desirous of reac ing Jacksonville in time for the steamer, and when within a few miles of it, an accident to one of the wheels brought us to a 8*^^and-still about two o'clock A.M., my anxiety became intense. But there was no help for it and turning into a one roomed log cabin, which the familj vacated for an adjoining shed, we awaited daylight and assistance, with what philosophy we could muster. They came at last — we reached the city in time, and once on board the Hteamer, I breathed freely. Returning North in December, I spent the remainder of the winter with my relations in Montreal and Quebec, and the following summer with my friends in the 8tat ^ of New York. r CHAPTER FOURTH, ** Charleston, South Cakouna. ' Much recruited by my long vacation, 1 left New York by steamer in November, 1854, tofulril an engagement tor the winter, as resident teacher in the establishment of Madame D in Charleston, S. C. A suiierer for many years from nervous headache, a complaint much aggra- vated by teaching, I never willingly engaged for more than one School Session, a period varying from four to live months. Madame D 's house was a large old- fashioned mansion on East Bay ; the rooms were spacious and lofty, and the walls of the drawing room were hung with tine oil paintings. Indeed her daughter, Mrs. B. was an artist of no ordinary skill. Though formerly enjoying a high reputation, Madame D 's semmary was then on the decline. This, I was told, was mainly owing to the loss of Miss G a teacher from the State of New York, and a lady of much energy and decision of character. A tirm and consistent Christian, a thorough teacher, uniting the •* Suaviter in modo" with the " Fortiter in re" jlhe was universally beloved. In declining health for many months previously, she fell an easy prey to yellow fever, her death occurring in the country, shortly alter my ai'ri- val. A younger sister, also a teacher at Madame D 's seemed to me gifted with a full share of the attractive qualities which 1 had heard attributed to her lamented sister, and I soon added one more to the list of friends whv unwavering regard has ever been the source of my highest enjoyment. Miss Mulock writing on *' Female Friendship" says — "The greatest of ail external blessings " is it to be able to lean your heart against another heart, 14 ii < '♦ faithful, tender, true and tried, and record with a thanfc- " fulness that years deepen instead of diminishing, * I " have got a friend.^ A friend. Not perhaps until later " life, until the follies, passions, and selfishness of youth " have died out, do we, (I mean, especially, we women) " cognize the inestimable blessing; tho responsibility, re- " awful as sweet, of possessing op being a friend. And " though, not willing to run counter to the world's kindly " custom, we may give that solemn title to many who do "not exactly own it; though year by year the lierce ex " perience of life, though death, circumstance or change, " narrows the circle of those who do own it •, still, that *' man or woman must have been very unfortunate — per- " haps, as there can be no result without a cause, worse " than unfortunate — who, looking back on thirty, forty, or "fifty years of existence, cannot say from the heart, */ thank God for my friends y No truer lines were ever writ- ten and when I can no longer render such thanks, 1 pray that life may cease. Madame D and her daughter, Mrs. B were very pleasing, ladylike, and well educated women. There were about a dozen boarders, nice lively girls, with full purses, most of them come to town for the winter chiefly with a view apparently to a daily parade in King Street, the most fashionable promenade in the city. Charleston, in those days, could boast of all the advantages which render- ed a residence at the South delightful at that season and the refined hospitality of its inhabitants was not the least of its attrfictions. I had about ten classes, m various branches, under my charge, so that my time was fully occupied. There were many talei*":d girls among them, and their kind remembrance of me at Christmas shewed that they appreciated my ef- forts in their behalf. My leisure was generally spent with my friend D or in the agreeable society of the Kev. Mr. W teacher of Natural Philosophy, and his wife and D and myself were ever made welcome in their com- fortable apartments. Mrs. W had a little slave — a perfect "Topsy" who was a source of great amusement to us. Had she been Mrs. W 's own child, I think she could not have taken more pains to secure her welfare, teialporal and spiritual, and I trust her labour was not in vain. Mr. W was a good and 1 ""arned man, a clergyman of the Episcopal Church, of which my friend D was also a staunch member. This combined influence induced nie to examine various works treating on the diiierenoe be- tween the Episcopal and Presbyterian creeds, and the re- sult was that I joined the former church. The attendance at school was much diminished in the Spring, as the warm weather advanced, most families thea returning to their plantations in the country. Madame D sold out her interest to Mrs. L and retired to a amall branch 15 — re- school, which she had maintained for many years at Aiken, S. C, also a great resort for invalids during the winter season. She offered me a post in this establishment, but in my ignorance, 1 preferred to acce|)t an engagement as resident governess in a private family from Georgia, about removing to Siimmerville, S. C. for the summer months. Though I had not seen Mrs. H. — (I had missed her call during her few hours' stay in the city) — her letter appear- ed to be that of a lady. 1 was told, too, that she belonged to a highly respectable South Carolina family. Somewhat rashly I -atermined to trust myself to hor tender mercies. Never was there such a complete disappointment ! The woman, with an eye of s^^^eel and heart to match, was a Legree in petticoats I On the very day of my arrival, in- viting me to an evening drive, she and her second daught- er, a girl of twelve or fourteen, composedly taking pos- session of the back seats, left me to sit with my back to the horses. I felt verv much inclined to withdraw at once, but after a moment's reflection, I managed to curb my wrath, and look as smiling as if facing two of the most T polished specimens of humanity. This little mcident pre pared n e, in some degree, for the treatment I might ex pect under that roof, and on her insolent and over-bearing behaviour in the school room, the next day, I braced every nerve for resistance. She fancied she had added one more to her list of trembling slaves, but our tirst encounter con- "• vinced her of her delusion. She told me she had a right to the disposal ot my time from the hour I rose, until I went to bed, and that she could " call upon me to sew for her if she chose 1" I told her that 1 had not the slightest •objection to her "calling" as long as she liked, but that I should very decidedly refuse to answer any such call. But I will spare my readers a detail of our skirmishes, which would be as wearisome as the reality. One of her miser- able old slaves, who had charge of my room, told me one • evening almost in a whisper, that no governess ever staid there long and I could well believe it. Finding me un- conquerable, Mrs. Legree then commenced a series of petty annoyances and indignities (which I met with the haughti- est indifference) in the hope of driving me to resign the engagement and thus forfeit the salary, but I fought her three long weeks before I gave her that satisfaction. Her eldest daughter wafi •• most interesting girl, and one whom, under other circumtances, 1 would have been delighted to teach. The second was a faithful copy of the mother and consequently her favorite, a distinction amply justi- fied, I was informed, by her subsequent career. Summef- ville, lying about twenty-two miles from Charleston, was then a straggling village, noted more for its salubrity of climate, I believe, than for any thing else. But Mrs. K — -'s 'house stood alone in the woods, far from any other, and bej'ond a walk to church, I knew nothing of the place. In the lust week in May, 1855, I gave up the fight, left the 1 iii ! — 16 — field to Mrs. "Legree" (for though nij spirit never gave way, my healtli diil blessing. I well remember, when travelling in one of those floating palaces down the Hudson a few years after Lmcoln's Proclamation gave freedom to the blacks, overhearing on old colored woman who sat near me. She was contrasting the ease and plenty of other days, and the considerate kindness of her old mis- tress (whose children she had nursed and loved as her own,) with the somewhat diflerent style of treatment she had experienced in the North, and ske wound up with a remark, which I fancy has been echoed by many of her class, that she ^^ neoer knew what slavery was, until she was free !" I have often seen Mr. and Mrs. S engaged hour after hour, in attending to the personal wants of their negroes. Mr. S , having some knowledge of medicine, often occupied himself in preparing it for the sick, and Mrs. S spent many a day in cutting out garments for the women and children. Nci' were their spiritual neoes sities neglected. My eldest pupil taught the children every Sunday afternoon ; and Divine service, attended by both races, was held nearly every Sunday in the little chapel on the plantation Those who were industriously inclmed had ample leisure for the acquisition of pocket money by raising poultry and vegetables. I have some- times seen them returning from their work at one or two o' clock P. M., free for the remainder of the day. — 19 Mr. and Mrs. S , 'lad a fine family, numbering three 8on3 and three daughters ; the latter were my pupils and I soon became much attached to them. Very diverse in character, they were all amiable, intelligent and well bred girls. To the second, a very delicate girl of about thir- teen, I felt especially drawn. Of a deeply religious tem- perament, her W6urm aifeotionate nature and cheerful dis- position, made her the idol of the family. She was much attached to me, and the strong bond which united us was broken only by her early death. That sweet hymn " Just as I am, " which I first heard from her lips, will ever be associated with her memory. The eldest son, a fine young man of twenty, ancf as perfect a model of the Christian soldier as could well be found, fell in the Confed erate cause a few years later, at the batti!e of Chancellors- ville. But for continued ill-health Insomnia and nervous headache havmg become chronic, my happiness under Mrs. S 's roof would have been complete. With con- genial society, and pleasant surroundings, life flowed on very smoothly. Close to my bed-room window an orange tree tempted me with its golden fruit, and on every side the beautiful live oaks waved their graceful branches^ Mrs. S was a most successful florist, and the beauty' and variety of her rose? bore token of h6r skill. A beau- tiful arch, formed by the overlapping branches of a group of live oak trees, stood opposite the doer, about an eighth of a mile distant. A little beyond the arch, and seen through it, flowed the shining Broad River. The scene, thus framed in oak, was so picturesque, that I was induced to attempt a sketch, and the result met with such flattering approval, that I made duplicates for several members of the family. Through the kindness of Mr. 8— a, saddle horse was often at my disposal when inclined for my favorite exercise. Sometimes we attended church at Beaufort, — ten miles oft": and sometimes at Sheldon, eight miles in an opposite direction. Soon after my ar- rival, I was enabled, with the assistance of Mr. S , to procure an engagement for a relation as governess in a neighbouring family, and I am happy to say that it proved a satisfactory one to both parties. As the S family always spent half the year with their relatives in North Carolina, my engagement termi- nated in \pril, 1860, when after another short visit to my Charleston friends, I returned for a summer holiday to the North. CHAPTER SIXTH. South Carolina. My residence with Mrs. S— — having proved so agree- able, I was very happy to accept an invitation to return in the fall. Thus in November, I found myself again afloat — 20 — I.! i ii! bound for Beaufort via Charleston. Lincoln's election had ju»t taken place, in dotianoe of the gathering clouds in the South, nnd rumors of secession filled the air. Blue cock- ades were worn by some of the gentleraen passengers ^ a board the "Cecile" which took us from Charleston to Beaufort, and even infants of three summers wore shout- ing ^^Iw'ant to secede 1^^ The origin of the late disastrous war is a subject on which I have neither the ability nor the inclination to enter. I will simply state that my sym- pathies from first to last, in common with those of most British subjects, were with the South, and that 1 thought the right of the Southerners to secede quite equal to that of the Colonies in 1776. 'That the British Government, however, was sincerely desirous of maintaining a strict neutrality is, I think, sufficiently proved by the fact that it has received an equal share of abuse from both sections. I need not speak of the excitement of the winter that followed. Leading the van in Secession, the enthusiasm in South Carolina knew no bounds, and all ranks gave an eager response to the call to arms. Early in May, 1861, all regular postal communication ^ith the North closed, although letters were sent by Adam's Express for some months longer. Many Northern teachers were hurrying home from the storm, but I am not fond of running, and I concludod to hold my ground as long as possible. Therefore w.ieu the time drew near for the return of the S — family to North Carolina, J trans- ferred my services, after a few days' rest in Charleston, to Mrs. H. Ij — . She ■ as then living on their rice plantation, about twenty miles from the city, but about removing for the summer to South Island, at the mouth of vhe Santee River — rice plantations being fatal to whites during that season. But the change from the comforts of the planta<- tion residence to the wretched little wooden box, half buried in sand hills, on South Island, was anything but enlivening. The heat was intense, (the thermometer some- times rising to 93o indoors,) and the musquitoes most troublesome. My pupils, two little girls and a boy, had been much neglected and were extremely averse to study. Without being badly disposed childreo, they were much given to quarrelling and teasing, and the strain rpon my nerves, added to ill health and personal discomfi)rt, was no slight one. In music, alone, I succeeded in exciting their interest, and the little boy, especially, made rapid progress. There were only about half a dozen families on the island, and the heat was too great for much visiting, but I occasionally enjoyed the society of our neighbour, Mrs. S. L — and her family. Miss M — , ar young lady from Cana- da, who had been teaching in Mrs. 8. L — s' family for sometime, was re-called home this summer, much to their regret. I had the pleasure, a couple of years later, of as- — 21 — slating Miss M. to an engagement in Cuba, but the customs of the country and the mode of life, were too trying for her philosophy, and her stay was short. Mr. H. L — was a woU-educated and intelligent man, of quiet domestic tastes. His wife was by no means his equal in mental calibre, but she was an excellent house keeper, and held the reins with a tirm hand. 1 had heard that she had brought her husband a considerable amount of pro perty, and she certainly did not appear inclined to let him forget the circumstance, her use of the possessive pro- noun, first person, singular, being very constant. 8he always supported my authority with the children, however, so that, without having much companionship — (riding was the only tiste which wa sh ired together) — we got on very amicably. But though [ knew she did not appreciate her huiband as he deserved, I was totally unprepared for the intelligence I received from a Southern correspondent a year or two later, that she had eloped with the Rev. Mr. (jr — , a young mvrried clergymvn, to whose eloquent and soul-stirring discourses I had listened with rapt attention, Sunday after Sunday, during that summer. A fort, not quite equal to Gibraltar, perhaps, but as strong as the circumst mces would allow, was erected on the island, mauaeu by forty gentlemen, and drilling Went on nightly on the beach. Now and then, I enjoyed a canter ther'}, — a hard gillop being in my opinion a, paiiaeea for most of the ills of life, an attack of the blu' s included. I was glad to leave that little sandy furnace as soon as my engagement permitted, and I pissed the following winter teaching in the G — familj', near Gilisonville, S. C. They were a rough, kind-hearted set, but by this time the effects of the war were so severely felt throughout the country, that they could do little for my personal c^ mfort. Soon after my arrival they were obliged to remove for greater security, to a miserable frame building, still fur- ther in the interior. There was not a whole window sash in the house, and ice formed in my room on Christmas Day, as late as ten o'clock A.M. The fare was of the coarsest description, and coming to Falstaff's conclusion, that "discretion is the best part of valour," I resolved to turn my steps Northward. I think even Mark Tapley might have surrendered under such circumstances. A young friend, K. R., then teaching in a boarding-school in Charleston, was very desirous of returning North with me, and we made up our minds that we would brave the dangers of the route. Gold being then (I think it was late in March, 1862) at a premium of twenty- five per cent, I took the advice of my friends, and left my few hundreds in the Charleston Savings' Bank to await the better times which were confidently expected. They never came, though I succeeded in recovering a portion of my fuQde after the termination of the war. I also left a piano to be disposed of, by my Charleston friends, and the issue was 22 — ' I *dll more disastrous, for I found afterwardn, to my surprise and regret that they had invested the proceeds in Con- federate Bonds! Could I have forseen that ere the termi- nation of that struggle, gold would rise to nearly two hun- dred and eighty per cent., 1 might have had a handsome balance on the other side. Armed with letters of introduction to the Confederate officials en route, and laden with despatches from our Southern friends to their Northern correspondents (un- sealed, as they had to be submitted to the inspection of the Federal authorities) we commenced our journey. Traces of the war were visible in the desolate, neglected looking country through which ' assed. Want and privation were plainly felt, bu. ■ of the people seemed np undaunted as ever. A ^i.., Virginia, the commanding officer of the Confeder»»i.« Army, to whom we had letters of introduction, forwarded us, with a few other passengers, under a flag of truce, to Fortress Monroe. We were most politely treated both by the Confederate and Federal officers, and while witnessing the exchange of courtesies on board that little steamer, it was hard to realize that within a few hours they might be looked to- gether in a death struggle. Our baggage and letters were examined by the officers of the Fort, and those among the latter which exceeded the prescribed limits, (two pages) were retained. Then we were free to proceed and joyously we sped on our way. We reached our friends safely, and for some time, flattered ourselves as being heroines on a small scale. CHAPTER SEVENTH. Newport, R. I., and Washington, I>. C. After & few months' rest, I left New- York in June. 1862, for the summer residence of the Hon. S. G. A. , at Newport, Rhode Island. From all I had heard of him and Mrs. A I was fllled with the most agreeable anticip ations. They were more than realized. Their house was the abode of every social and domestic confort, and I longed more than over for perfect health to enjoy them. My pupils were two interesting girls of about eleven and thirteen respectively. The elder, a sweetly pretty girl, was amiability personified ; the younger was a livel.> little sprite, brimful of mischief. A dear little girl of about three years, completed the family. A man of enlarged views, liberal education and fine intellectual tastes, Mr. A has made valuable contributions to the literature of his State, a History of Rhode Island being among the number. Although Mr. and Mrs. A were strong Federalists, and well aware of my Southern proclivities, not an unpleasant word ever passed between us on that subject, or indeed, on any other, and I look back with unalloyed satisfaction on the period of my sojourn with them. — 23 — Newport has long ranked among the moat faahionable of summer resorts in the States, and an afternoon or evening drive along the smooth beuoh, extending for miles, crowded with bathers in every variety of costume, and thronged with equipages of every description, from the stylish four-in-hand barouche to the one-horse " buggy " seemed an unfailing source of interest to the visitors. But the drive, pair excellence, was the Avenue, the Rotten Row of Newport, and there Fashion disported herself in all her glory. Mr. A being elected to replace Mr. S in the United States Senate, we removed to Washington in No- vember. Fond of quiet, the change from the charming country cottage to the bustle of Congressional life, yielded me little pleasure. Beyond its beautiful Capitol and other public edifices, I saw little to admire in that ** city of magnificent distances," and the state of the streets often rendered walking an exercise requiring a considerable amount of skill. Occasionally I accompanied Mrs. A , to hear the aebates in the Senate, which were generally very animated during that memorable winter, when the star of the Confederacy seemed decidedly in the nscen- dant. Mr. A— — is one of the most kind-hearted of men ; at my request, he exerted his powerful influence at "Wash- ington for the re-appointment of a near relative of mine in the U. S. Navy, and his exertions were eventually crowned with success. His hospitality was profuse, and in parlies of two and three, I think I must have met nearly the wm)le Senate at his table. Many of them were men of marked ability, as well as polished manners, while others were exceedingly rough diamonds. I was much dis- appointed on meeting the late renowned Mr. S , of Massachusetts. I had expected a Cicero, and I found an exceedingly heavy-looking taciturn man whose utterances were very much like those of ordinary mortals. But the conversation of Senator P , of Kentucky ; of Senator F , of Maine, and several others, was a rare intellectual treat. My dislike to Washington life induced me to lend a willing ear to the glowing accounts of the golden harvest to be reaped by teachers in Cuba, and parting with great regret from the A family, [ left for that island in the steamer « Melita" on the 22nd March, 1863. CHAFPER EIGHTH. Cuba. Not remarkably " high," perhaps but still " On a throne of Roya? 8'ate " Which far uutahone the wealth of Ormua or of Ind." sat the « Queen of the Antilles" as we drew near that bright Sabbath morning, after a week's voyage. Never shall I forget the rare beauty of the panorama which 24 — 'i unfolded itself as we swept past the Morro Castle into j'ort. The palm tveerf on the hills, the flat roofed houses, of every imaginable colour, red, blue, green, yellow, etc., the numerous church domes and steeples, carried me back to the dreams of childhood and the " Arabian Nights." It was distance, however, that lent the enchant- ment ; the touch of terra firma dispelled it. But a wo. d or two first of the voyage, which Capt. Cor- bett had made as pleasant as possible. On arrival at New York to take the steamer ' -"as somewhat startled to find myself the only lady passenger, but it was too late to re- treat. The stewardess, a respectable elderly woman, was, I think, the only other female on board. The officers were all Englishmen, and the frank bonhomie of English sail ors, whether belonging to the merchant service or the Royal Navy, forms a pleasing contrast to the general surliness of John Bull both at home and abroad. He is a noble crea- ture, but amiability is certainly not his most striking charac teristic. The old "Melitit" was not a model of naval architecture, but tolerably comfortable, and slow enoui.'h to be very safe. The Doctor was a very intelligent young man, who had lately been a captain of cavalry in the Confederate service. He was at the battle of Shiloh, and gave us many interesting incidents of the light, lie told us of men with one arm shattered, persistently remaining on the field, loading and firing with the other, of a Captain Bowen, a cavalry officer returning to the battle, with bandaged arm, a pistoi in one hand and the br/dle be- tween his teeth ; of Gen. Sidney Johnson, concealing his mortal wound, until within a few minutes of iiis death, for fear of dispiriting his men I Why such heroism should have been all in vain is one of thousand mysteries of life which the light of eternity alone can make clear. Shivering with cold, and muffled to the eyes during the first days of the voyage, garment after garment was dropped as we approached the tropics, and we reached Havana in the airiest costumes possible. The usual routine of sea life was ours. A late dawdling breakfast, a promenade, a game of chess — (a couple of players presented themselves, but they did not tax my powers very heavily) — lunch, a siesta, or an attempt at one. a little reading, dinner, another promenade, gossip, tea, whist, more gossip and then to bed. One of my antagonists at chess was a young English- man, a Mr. B- a brother in law of one of the owners of the steamer, and an exceedingly pleasant and witty youth. Well-educated and light-hearted, with robust health and a full purse, "Vive le bagatelle" appeared to be his motto. He was travelling for pleasure, and talked of visiting Canada, if it involved no risk of getting home too late for ♦» the Derby." As soon as we came to anchor, Mr. A. B (an Eng'ishman formerly resident in Quebec, and then doing business in Havana) being unable to come Himself, sent a boat, with two of his clerks, to escort me on shore. 25-- •4 The wind was very high, and the transit was a rough one. I reached the wharf considerably drenched, and then I found that the '' Queen of the Antilles" did not improve on a closer acquaintance, the streets being very narrow and dirty, and the houses and public edifices very dingy looking. I am afraid I laughed aloud when that most extraordinary looking of all vehicles — the Spanish volante — hrst met my sight. Hung much lower than the old- fashioned French Canadian caleche, (which is equally a subject of amusement to travellers in our country,) the body of the volante, though considerably longer, resembles it a good deal. But its oddity consists in the pair of immense wheels projecting behind, and its long and narrow shafts. Drawn by one of their diminutive horses or mules, (the tail of the former being tightly plaited and tied up on one side) ridden by a postilion of whom you see little but his straw hat, long boots and spurs — the eftect is comical in the extreme. Some of the volantes, however, belonging to private families are handsomely titted up, and ornam- ented with silver, of which there is also a profuse display on the harness. These volantes are generally drawn by a pair, one horse being outside the shafts, mounted by a gorgeously-dressed postilion, in a velvet jacket, embroider- ed with gold or silver, a laced hat, shining black boots, coming far above the knee, and adorned with silver spurs about a quarter of a yard in length. The distance between the occupant of the volante and the postilion is so great that once en route, communication between them becomes a matter of considerable difficulty, and when the unwary stranger, ignorant of the language has been enticed into the hire of one of those vehicles, the scene becomes very ludicrous. Fondly imagining that his preliminary little jargon has established a clear u.iderstanding between his ''calesero" and himself, he complacently takes his seat, and discovers in a minute or two that he is whirling away in a very different direction to that which he intended. He shouts to the "calesero" (1) — he gesticulates — but all in vain ; other unfortunates are shouting and gesticulating too ; the rattling of carts and carriages over the roughly- paved streets is deafening, and his conductor gallops on unheeding. Or should he tinally succeed in gaining that worthy's attention, a nod and a " Si, (2) si," are the only result, as Jehu continues his course and finally lands him at the hotel, a sadder and a wiser man. The Spanish oflHcials at the Custom House kindly passed my baggage without examination, (a solitary spinster being frf»e from suspicion of treason in those days), and though I had neither the passport nor the landing permit which their law requires, I was never troubled on the subject. Proceeding to the Hotel Almy, then situated in the Piaza ..>^' (1) Driror of a Rig or caleche. (2) " Yea, yoa." ''' i 111! lltl 1'''] i| II If 'I m ! ! ! ;l itllM llj:;;fJi de San Francisco, I was soon comfortably established by the kind proprietress in a large airy room, which seemed a paradise after a week's confinement in the "Melita."" Here I was soon joined by a relative, a lady who had arriv- ed in Havana the proceeding year, and Mr. A. B called soon after. They informed me that an engagement at Manzanillo, in the family of Senor Don J. R awaiteci my acceptance. Manzanillo is a little country town on the south eastern coast of the island, and it was there the present insun-ection broke out in 18fiS. Mr. A. B was personally acquainted with Senor R and thought I would have a fair chance of being comfortably situated in his family. I would have one pupil, a girl of fifteen, and they would refund my travelling expenses from New York to Manzanillo, which would be another four days' journey from Havana. As engagements in Cuba, are by the month only, (thus leaving both parties free to change after that short interval). I concluded to make the trial, hard as it was to go off alone to the other end of the island, and live among perfect strangers, of whose language I knew but a few words. But this being Holy Week, there was no steamer from Batabano until Easter Saturday, so under H's guidance and Mr. B's, I gave myself up to sight-seeing in the interior. On Holy Thursday and Good Friday, wheels are banished from the streets, and on those days alone, etiquette permits Cuban ladies to walk out unattended. We visited some of the churches, but they disappointed me. The altar of the Church of the Convent of Santa Catalina, inlaid with mother of-pearl, was the prettiest that I saw. Talcing leave of my friends on Friday night, and summon- ing all my courage, I rose at four o'clock the next morn- ing, and under the guidance of good Mrs. Almy's mayor domo, proceeded to the Railroad Depot, leaving in the train at five. My knowledge of Spanish was at that time limited to a little occasional study of a grammar and dictionary which I had purchased in Washington. It was therefore with no little anxiety that I looked out for the Cuban gentleman (speaking English, and a friend of Mr. B 's) travelling in the same direction ; he had kindly promised his services in looking after my baggage, acting as interpreter etc. But he had been obliged to leave Havana by an earlier train, and he did not make his ap- pearance until I reached the steamer at Bataban'o at nine A.M., so that I was left to my own resources during the first stage of my journey. A detailed account of that cruise along the coast would be as tedious as was the reality. It was wearisome enough to me, for again I was the only lady passenger. Eating oranges, which were strewn over the floor in the ladies' cabin in the greatest profusion, was my chief entertainment. Stopping at Cienfuegos, Trinidad and Santa Cruz, en route, we reached Manzanillo on the fourth day. My escort notified Senor R of my arrival ; he came promptly on board, and took me to his town — 27 — residence. Outside, it looked very much like a dilapidated weather-stained old coach house, with iron-grated, un glazed windows ; but crossing the threshold, you stood in a very lofty, spacious, marble-floored and elegantly furnish- ed " sala," (1) and visions of rest in a quiet sanctum of my own, in keeping with these luxurious surroundings, tilled me with eager expectancy. The Senora and her daughter Juanita, (2) gave me a kind welcome, and very much fatigued by the voyage, I was soon glad to accept their otter to ponduct me to my room. There I was disenchanted at once. It was a very small one, with a bare brick floor, and contained hardly an article of furniture besides the bed- stead. They cheered me, however with the intelligence that the rainy season having commenced, they were about removing to their country house, where they could give me superior accomodations. The father and daughter spoke English a little, but the mother did not understand a word of either French or English, so that when we were left together I was forced to call my little stock of Spanish into play, and after a few days, I found myself, to my sur- prise sustaining a conversation with her, after a fashion, our range being somewhat limited. I may add here that Spaniph is a language so easily acquired that when I had only been three months in the island, I resided in a family where the^ understood no other, and instructed three children in the various branches of education, including music, through that medium. Manzanillo seemed to me the dullest and most uninter esting place I had yet seen. The air of desolation and decay which pervaded the little town, was enough to depress the most mercurial temperament, but on our removal to the country, my spirits sank still lower. My friends did not wear well, in the intimacy of every day life, and their brutality to their slaves often made my blood boil. All the work of the house seemed to fall on one poor womai and almost daily her mistress punished her short comings with the lash ; on one occasion, when her arm grew weary, her husband brought his energies to the task. One day, at the dinner table, on account of a flaw in some dish, he sent for the cook, and with his whip, thrashed him then and there. One evening, as I sat on the piazza, a poor boy, with naked, swollen and bleeding back, oar to implore protection from the overseer. This was ; dark side of Slavery, which I now saw for the first time (m^ Summerville experience excepted) and the contrast which it presented to the same institution in the United States, was most striking. Here the slaves were locked up every night in a long brick building, closely resembling a jail, light and air being only admitted through narrow openings near the roof. The difterenco of treatment in the two 1 Drawing-room. S Pronounced Uoo-aw-nee-taw the J in Spanish aouuding like H. \}i': f - St: — 28 li ;i!i ii: III -ill: iif countries is hardly surprising, for the cold-blooded fero»- city of the Spanish race in all ages, renders it the last to be trusted with irresponsible power. As a general rule, however, their house servants are very well treated. The darker traits of their Spanish progenitors are fast dis- appearing from the Cuban character, while they retain the stately courtesy of manner and n>ore attractive qualities of the hidalgo of the Peninsula. A stranger travelling in Cuba has seldom other than a kind reception to record, and memory reverts, as I, write, to many Havanese friends whom I would give much to see again. These scenes at the dinner table, however, were not appetizing to a stranger, though they did not seem to affect the enjoyment of the rest of the party. At the conclusion of the meal, the lady of the house generally called for a basin and towel, and, after tilling her mouth with water and ejecting it through her closed teeth over the floor, calmly proceeded to her ablutions. I found, too, that the superior accomodations promised me were all a myth, my room being most scantily furnished and the brick floor so damp that my shoes were covered with fresh mould every morning. Lizards and scorpions, too, frequently shared the apartment with me, to say nothing of the all- pervading ant. The place also swarmed so with musquitoes that while at table you were sometimes obliged to hold a veil over your face with one hand; while feeding yourself with the other. I was very thankful therefore when the end of the month left me free to make another trial in Havana. I returned by the same route, and this time I had two or three Cuban and one French lady for fellow passengers. The latter had just arrived in the country, and her horror at the customs and habits of some of the passengers (which were certainly rather startling) and the tilthy condition of the cabin, where roaches about the size of small mice were running over the berths, was something very pathetic. " Mon Dieu, mon Dieu, quel pays 1" she ejaculated every now and then ; and how civilized individuals coftld live in such a country was a problem beyond her solution. A day or two after my return to the Hotel Almy, a very plausible gentleman, doing business in the city, but residing at Marianao, induced me to undertake the tuition of his daughter, aged thirteen. Marianao is a favorite watering-place, about nine miles distant from Havana, and communicating with it both by street cars and rail- road. Mr. S 's residence was a handsome and spacious one, and the family lived in considerable comfort. My friend, 1 found, was a Jew, and he soon proved himself a very Shylook too. Unfortunately for me his daughter inherited his organ of acquisitiveness, and her ideas of " meum" and " tuum" bemg somewhat vague, the conse- quences were rather awkward at times. Various little articles, (several of which she had admired — 29 — ero- it to rule, The dis- the es of very frankly,) disappeared from my room ; a beautiful miniature on ivory, set in gold ; a new fan, a couple of silk aprons were amongst the number; and as several of them were seen in her possession after my departure, 1 think I may set down the whole loss to her account. Finding therefore that a prolonged residence under that roof was hardly desirable in a financial point of view, I made another move, and my next essay was in a family living in a far less pretentious style, but giving promise of more orthoc'ox views on the rights of property. They, were, indeed a kind-hearted honest set, but though possessed of considerable means, they lived in a slip-shod, higgledy- piggledy manner which often taxed my powers of endur- ance severely. The household was a numerous one com- prising three old women, a married daughter and her three children, (who wore my pupils,) one or two guests, and the usual number of slaves. There were no gentlemen in the house, the husband being absent in the North, and the family, old and young, generally made their appear- ance, at the ten o'clock breakfast, uncombed and unwashed, with stockings hanging down at the heels, and a suspicious air of having just rolled out of bed. The menage generally, and the service of the table in particular, were all in the same style. Our meals were daily enlivened by the grunt- ing of a little pig round the table, not to mention the running accompaniment of dogs and poultry, the doors communicating with the yard being always open on account of the heat. There was always a liberal supply of fruit in that house, and I revelled alternately in mangoes, zapotes, quinces, pomegranates, gu iva, peaches, oranges, pine-apples, and many other kinds of indigenous fruit whose names I have forgotten. But, I think, the luscious pine- apple was my favorite always — that is, when I could secure a piece which had not been too freely handled, and thus acquired a flavor not quite equal to the original. The old women and some of the younger ones frequently solaced themselves with a weed, and free expectoration, quite irrespective of time or place, was indulged m by all, My pupils opened their eyes very wide when I gently but firmly insisted that they should relinquish thut practice in my domains. But good people as they were, that summer was inexpressibly wearisome to me. H had long since returned North ; Mr. B was absent, and I was a stranger in a strange land, living with persons with whom I could hold no intercourse except in Spanish, and with whom I had not a single taste in common. One thing alone gave me satisfaction — the rapid improvement of the little girls, and the pleasure it imparted to the family. A better engagement offering in the fall, I eagerly accepted it and spent the ensuing five months on a sugar plantation, near Guines, belonging to Senor Don F. D . The estate was an extensive one. comprising over two thousand acres. The scenery was flat and uninteresting ■>•' 1 , ■/";■•■:,-■■ —30— -:;;■•;■;.., and the roads were almost impassable for wheels. Mr- T) had been a man of great wealth, but was now con- siderably involved, and though his li)miiy still lived in great comfort, the splendour of other days had departed. The house, too, kept in excellent order by a well- trained corps of domestics under Mrs. D 's able management was a very old and inconvenient one, and the slaves' quarters were huts of the most wretched description. Mr. ' and Mrs. D were a highly educated and intelligent pair, belonging to one of the first families on the island. They vere also M«cZe and 7i?!ece, a dispensation from the Pope ptiectually removing any scruples which might be enter- tained on the subject. A grown-up son and daughter, my pupils (a girl of thirteen, and a boy of ten), with two younger ones, completed the family, far superior in educa- tion and ri'finement to any I had yet met with. The children were all bright and intelligent, inheriting especially their parents' taste for music. Commencing with me, M. and R soon displayed marked ability, the little boy coming out in the following year as a composer. They also took such delight in drawing, that it gave me especial pleasure to teach them. :>; Biding was as usual my chief recreation wherever at- tainable, and I found the easy canter of the little Cuban horses exceedingly pleasant. I also met with an excellent ijl chessplayer in the person of Mr. Daguerre, a cousin of the celebrated inventor, and a highly polished and most Iflji 7. accomplished man. He was connected with the D ii;|;l|i family, and with his amiable wife, was a guest in the house . for several weeks. Mr. Daguerre told me of his having acted as interpreter for Paul Morphy at an evening party in Havana, when the latter, while engaged in the mazes of the dance and the entertainment of his fair partner, dictated the moves in eight games simultaneously, win- ning, I believe, all but one. It was quite interesting to pay an occasional visit to the sugar mill, and witness the wonderful appli- ances of science and skill which transformed the cane, withm a few hours, into sugar packed in boxes and ready for transportation to Havana. A walk through tho cane fields, however, where a driver, to every half dozen, shouting, " Alza!" with upraised lash, urged on the toiling slaves, was not so pleasant a sight, and the i|i cruel treatment of the Coolies generally throughout the island, especially excited my indignation. I came very near giving expression to it one day when a Cuban gentle- man remarked at table that the overseer on their planta- tion always select •" a Chinaman for any particularly dangerous work, ife being less valuable to the pro- prietor. The Chine^ we no courage to bear pain and haying no fear of death, suicide is of frequent occurrence among them. Providing themselves with rice and other provisions for their journey through the Dark Valley, they •liylil i 1:1' li.' si 31 — deliberately put an end to their sutte rings. They are very ■ revengeful ; and shortly after my arrival on the plantation tln-ee of them way laid and killed an overseer who had ill-treated them. Within seven years nine murders liad been committed in the vicinity with impunity. Knowing therefore that their lives were safe, and that escape from the country w:is impossible, they immediately ran to Guines and surrendered themselves to the police. The Chinese make excellent house servants. Cleanly and intelligent, willing and obedient, they are rapidly super seding all other foreigners in domestic labor, especially in the kitchen and laundry — in Cuba, California and Peru. The proHts on these sugar plantations used to be '-nor- mous. I recollect being told by Mr. D that atceriain seasons, every rainy day was a loss of a thousand dollars to him. The climate of Cuba in winter is perfectly delightful, though occasionally in the country we had an unpleasantly cool night. Though my health was no worse here than elsewhere, I longed in the Spring for a breath of Northern air. The desire became irresistible, and being happily , able to provide the D famiiy with a substitute, I took •passage from Havana to New York in the ** Evening Star" a beautiful steamer, which was lost a few years later. The annual exodus to the North had not yet commenced and there were but few passengers on board. One of them, however, a Dr. Charles W of Philadelphia, afforded me a good deal of entertainment. It was like listening to a chapter from ** Monte Christo." Apparently possessed of unlimited means, he had been all round the .' world ; lad known and visited Byron's daughter Ada, late Countess of Lovelace, and " had kissed her often" ; had a villa at Naples, a chateau in France (1 think he must have meant Spain) and a house in Philadelphia. He was an intimate friend of Ix)rd Bury's, he said, and " had travelled ■i with him in Canada." At present he was engaged (just pour passer le temps) in establishing a line of steamers between New York and Galway, and he had free passes on all railways. His violent abuse of abolitionists at the dinner table would have, brought most men into trouble, but he said they "dared not arrest him." They were on the point of doing so once, when he was about embarking for Europe, but Seward telegraphed — " Let Dr. W go." CHAPTER NINTH. Cuba continued. After a pleasant summer with my relations and friends in the State of New York, I was about thinking of a return to Cuba when an opportunity ottering of a satisfactory engagement in a private family residing in the vicinity of my friends at Newtown, Long Island, I concluded to prolong — 32 — !■ '!l|:i' I ' I 'IP' It:' l~,f 'i'f: my stay in the North a few months longer. Beautifully situated in the country, the residence of the S— — family combined every luxury and comfort. The head of the house hold, a very old lady, was a beautiful exemplification — all too rare — of a graceful old age. — Sightless for many years, her calm clear judgment and sweetness of temper still made her the centre of attraction to a laige circle of friends. Two married sons and a daughter, with their families, lived with her. My pupils, two little girls, were intelligent and docile, and my winter passed away very smoothly, thotigh I there made my first acquaintance with chills and fever. It was only after I left this family in the spring of 1865, to return to Cuba, that T heard, through the public prints, of the terrible drama which had been enacted on their hearth some years previously, and was again to be rehearsed in a court of law. It awoke my deepest sympathy for the family I had known and liked so well. On my return to Havana in 1865, and thenceforth until my final departure from the island in 1 869, I pursued my vocation on a different and far more remunerative system. Residing part of the time in private boarding houses, somf times at hotels^ and at others in priv e families, I engaged in several simultaneously as visiting governess, giving daily lessons in some and triweekly in others. Though I do not recollect that the thermometer ever rose in Havana above 92 o in the shade, still the long continued heat made teaching, under such circumstances, very debilitating. Rising at six A.M., often after a sleepless night, I used to take the cars to the Cerro, the fashionable suburbs of the city, to commence teaching at eight. In the city I often gave my first lesoon at half -past seven. Happily most of my pupils in Havana were extremely docile, but there were some unpleasant exceptions, and eight hours' daily teaching in such a climate was not calculated to leave either mind or body in the most brilliant condition ; an iron frame and constitu+";ii alone could have borne it with impunity. Very soon after my arrival, I followed the fashion of the country, discarded hat and gloves, and adopted the con- venient Spanish mantilla, made of figured black lace. In this costume, a foreign lady is less likely to excite the attention of the passers by. Still it did not always save us from their comments, and "Que linda" I "Que bouita or <( Que graciosa " (1) were the salutations received indis- criminately by all Northern ladies who ventured to walk out unattended. It was not pleasant, but there was no remedy ; unheeding, you could only pass on looking as much like a deaf-mute as possible. Some of the streets of Havana are unprovided with side- walks and in others they are so narrow that it is impossible ( 1 ) How beautiful I how pretty I how graceful I — 33 — to avoid brushing the wall with your dreas. Othor portions of the city, the Calle del Prado, the Paseo, the Cerro, and the public parks are very pretty. The gorgeous appear- ance of the shops by gas-light (the whole front being open to view) the gay crowds in the piazzas of the cafes and restaurants ; and the military bands discoursing sweet music in the parks, thronged with ladies and gentleme.i in the full bl.'use of evening toil'ete, some strolling about^ and others lolling in their elegant carriages, sipping ices meanwhile, render an evening drive through the city very enjoyable. One street in Havana seems especially devoted to the jewellery trade, and the display at night is magni- ficent. As you drive or saunter along, the lofty, wide opened doors and iron grated windows reaching to the ground, leave the private residences, even to some of the inner departments, open to your inspection. Very much the same scene is presented in each ; a spacious sala, with inlaid marble floor ; a cane-seated sofa, at the upper end, flanked by half a dozen arm or rocking chairs on each side down the centre of the room, and each provided with a spittoon and footstool ; a small carpet in front of the sofa ; a pierglass and console table, a piano and a few more chairs agitinst the wall, complete the furniture. A taste for music is universal among the Cubans, and there are few houses without an instrument of some kind. Visitors pass in and out, the rocking chairs are in full swing, (as well as the ladies' tongues,) and occasionally a cavalier removes his cigar for an instant for the sake of freer utterance. As you pass, you may have a glimpse of the sumptuously furnished bed-room, with its gilt bedstead and elegant lace drapery, the sheets and pillow cases being also pro- fusely trimmed with deep lace, — the ma/nificent ward- robe, panelled with mirrors, — the silver besin and pitcher on the marble-topped stand etc. — But the house closes for the night and a change comes o'er the s'jene. In many cases the linery disappears ; two or three extra cots are brought in to be occupied by as many adults or children, and the arrangements for the night genera' ly arr of the most primitive simplicity. Mattresses are seldom met with except in hotels ; a pair of sheetf, and a pillow con- stitute the bed furniture, and the lavatory accomodations are often on an equally limited scale. In a sick room, light, air and water are usually excluded with the utmost care, and whatever ablutions are permitted to the patient are performed through the substitution of aguardiente. The perfect sang-froid with which Cubans in general, of either sex, discuss the most delicate subjects, irrespective of time or place is most startling to a stranger, and indeed modesty, as .we understand the term, seems utterly un- known to the large majority. Mothers parade their naked babies about the house, and even in the streets, in the most nonchalante manner, and among the poorer classes, bojs of six or seven years of age often sally forth in the Of i 1 1.' :;l|-r' l>:r i \^h game garb of nature. Among the middle and upper classes the baptism of a child is always the occasion of a grand festival. Friends and relatione from far and near are bidden, and after the ceremony at the church, sit down to the festive board. .Some hundreds of little fancy ribbons, of all hues and colours, stamped with the infant's rame (which is generally IjCgion) the sponsors', and the date of baptism, and with a little gold or silver coin attached, are distributed among the guests. I was told that in former days, gold or silver coin, according to the wealth of the ■ family, was also scattered among the crowd in the streets on such occasions. The^ninito," (I) even at this early stage is generally adorned with bra;elet8 and ear- rings. The contrast, even in many wealthy families, between the general untidiness and slovenly appearance of the ladies, during the morning hours at home, and the splend- our of the evening toilette, was very striking. I have seen the same persons, slipshod and uncombed all day, issue forth bare-headed and in ball costume resplendent with jewels to the evening Retreta, in a splendid carriage, at- tended by servants in handsome livery. In many, and indeed in most of the houses in Cuba, you enter through the gateway which also gives admittance to the horses and carriages, and does duty as coach house as wexl. I was residing at one time in the house of a Cuban— (a pro- . fessional i.ian, and a very wealthy one), where the dining- room being on the inner side of the court yard and the stable just beyond it ; the horses were always necessarily •led through it, when required early for the evening drive, they were often brought through while we were still at ':' table. The kitchen in this establishment was also under the same open shed as the stable,, and the cook might have groomed the horses with one hand while stirring the pottage with the other. Among. the first iamiiies, however, especially those who had been educated or who had travelled in the North, I found as luxurious and weil- appointcd tables as in any country. But in the large majority, the lavish use of oil and garlic rendered the fare most unpalatable to a stranger. Fresh fruit, however, was both cheap and plentiful and the "dulees" (2) were delicious. 1 he meat and poultry were very inferior, but the vegetables were excellent and in great variety. Good fresh butter was an unknown luxury, and the milk was of the thinnest description. It must have been pure, how- ever, for the " lechero'' (3) milked the animal at your door. The Spanish Government in the " Siempre liel Isla de Cuba" ('-always faithful island of Cuba" — so termed on every lottery ticket, derives an immense revenue from the 0) Baby. (2) Presorved fruit. (8) Milk*man. — 85 ; Raid lotteries, which took plnce then every twenty days, but now only six times a year. They are a terrible drain on the people. High and low, rich and poor, succumb to the spirit of gambling thuH induced, and thousands owe their ruin to them. The price of a whole ticket was for- merly an ounce — u large gold coin, worth seventeen dol- lars ; but a few months before my departure in 1809, that metal became very scarce, and the price was raised to twenty dollars. You could buy any fractional part, from a twentieth upward, and the slaves often clubbed together for such investments. In almost every family, I heard of some one who, atone time or another, had drawn valuable prizes, and many among the slaves had thus been enabled to buy their freedom. The drawings are condticte d in a most satisfactory manner ; indeed there seems no possi- bility of any imfair dealing. Two little boys, with arms bared to the shoulder, stand on a raised platform in full view of the assembly. A globe is placed before each ; one contains the numjjered tickets, the other the prizes. The highest prize amounts to one hundred thousand dollars, the second to fifty thousand, the third to twenty-five, and 80 on. The contents of each globe being first well stirred round through the openinz at the top, one of the boys draws a ticket at random, calls out the number, and holds it up to view. His mate then draws in a similar manner from the prizes, and t e ticket takes the prize. Thus they proceed drawing alternately, until the prizes are exhaust- ed. I knew of two teachers who thus tempted fortune with success. One (Mrs. A. S. the heroine of my promissory note and watch episode detailed hereafter) had won three thousand dollars, and after my departure I heard of another who had won twenty-five thousand. I sometimes yielded to the temptation myself, but to a very trifling extent. My success, however, was not brilliant, though on one occasion 1 came out a winner of a dollar. I was fortunate in the numbers I selected for others and bought once or twice for a relative in the country. I remitted her a balance of about twenty dolla,rs, if my memory serves me right. CHAPTER TENTH. Cuba continubd. Another attack of the fever and ague, contracted at Newtown, Long Island, laid me up soon after my return to Havana, but it finally yielded to the powerful doses of quinine prescribed by the Cuban doctor. Cholera occa- sionally visited the city, and yellow fever was a periodical scourge ; I escaped both, however. About this time I received the news of another and heavier loss than r ny preceding. I had placed almost half my savings with Mr. D. 3. L — — -^ a lawyer of New York, connected by marriage with our family, and now I heard of his "bankruptcy and — t)\) — mm i: ■^i ' ' death f Ho hnd assured mo that rwy money was Hecured on bond and mortgage and that " nothing sliort of nn earth- quake could imperil it." I had a high opinion of hi» integrity and ability, and 1 believe stiil that ho meant what he said. But I hare never yet received a cent of the money, amounting to some seven hundred dollars, though I am indulging a strong hone hold out to me by his mother- in law, that his widow will discharge the debt when she comes into her inheritance. Sundays and the festivals marked in the cjilendar by a double cross, are the only holidays enjoyed by teachers in Cuba. The bodily rest of the Sabbath was most gratefid, but there was little in Havana to minister to the spiritual necessities of Protestants, Though th(i British Consul had the privilege of holding divine service at his rc-sidenoe, there seemed little desire on the part of any to avail themselves of it. During the first months of my residence, I made an ettbrt to excite a little interest in the subject amongst my few Protestant friends, but I soon found that it was unavailing. Sunday was therefore a long d;iy to me ; it was difficult to procure any reading suitaMe to the day, 80 that my chief resource was Sacred Mutie, with which I beguiled many an hour. In Havana it is a day especially devoted to pleasure, and feasting and revelry are at their height. The shops make their mosc brilliant display, and the theatres and bull-tights are most attractive. Though the ex-(jueen of Spain, 1 believe, used to grace the arena with her presence, the ladies of Havana, among the upper classes, have Ion;: since abandoned it. Indifferent Protes- tants soon learn to follow the tide and even the most ligid principles are apt to relax under such influences. I was shocked to find so many deists and even atheists, among nominal Christians. One of the most praiseworthy acts of the late Republic was the establishment of religious free- dom in Spain and her colonies. In the early part oi the year 1866, a Dr. S , an American dentist practising in Havana, was introtluced to me by a fellow teacher, on a matter of Ijiisiness, and on his representations I was induced to entrust my spa'^ecaah to him and a Frenchman, a Mr. M , whom he pre sented to me as his partner. They had opportunities, they said, of making money rapidly, (though I did not clearly understand what they were) and the high interest they offered, lured me into visions of speedy emancipation from my life of toil and suffering. The Frenchman was a mid- dle aged married man, with a grown up daughter. Ho had also been a teacher and spoke so feelingly of the trials of my lot, adding, with many other protestations, thut he " would act for me as for his own daughter," that he won my confidence coifipletely. Sundry large piles of my Spanish gold passed into the keeping of these gentlemen, in exchange for two little bits of paper, ornamented by their respective autographs. For six months, Mr. M — 37 — punctually kept to his ugroement, niul being thus a-HHureil of liis good I'uith, I wiifi imhocile onough to trust liim with my nil. Dr. S Jiiid also up to this time, piiid the interest due, with tolerable regularity, and now, by some arrangement betw en them, Dr. S 's liability to me, amounting tn forty gold ounces, was transferred to Mr. M . Two months passed on; two more — and a linnd- some independence would bo mine. As I strolled on the "azotea" (I) every evening, too fatigued for a more extended f)romenade, 1 revelled in dreams of quiet rest in a modest ittle home of my own, ever to be shared with two or three cherished friends. I would have a cottage in the country with a view of the river, and within easy distance of the town. 1 could not decide whether it should be on the banks of the lluilsoii, or on the St. Lawrence, and finally concluded to leave it an open question for the present. A well-stocked library, and a line- toned piano should be my first care. A croquet grounuur (liapoiiul. [•2] Literiilly— " At jour ;eet madam." Of [8] "I kii« your hauds, MIbb." ' — 39 — ries. ^een jh a her in- too she ther jex- ad- she one, I finally engaged board and lodging with a Cuban lady, a widow, living in a. very small house in one of the central streois. Her household was limited to her son, about fifteen years of age, and a little mulatta servant boy, the cook, also a mulatto, did not sleep on the premises, but returned to her own domicile every evening. Res- pectability I had undoubtedly found, but I was to pay a heavy price for it. The door or rather gate of this house opened, like the large m-'jority, directly into the "S:ila," and generally stood half open in the evening, for the free circulation of air. On the evening of the 30th August, 1868, while seated in the " Sala" conversing with my land- lady, she and I being the only inmates at tne time, two negroes came to the house. One remained at the door outside, while the other, a tall powerful looking fellow, in his shirt sleeves, asked for water. advanced at once into the room, and Senora protested she had none. no cause , beyond. but he persisted, and assuring us that there was for alarm, he passed on to the dining room Senora O rose and followed him, and I immediately took up my station at the door, which alone afibrded egress from the premises, ready to call in the assistance of the neighbours the moment she should notify me of danger, never doubting that she would keep her eye on him sus- picious of his intentions as she evidentlj' was. But I had reckoned too much on my hostess. Instead of watching him she quietly slipped lulo lu r own ronni, and locked the doors, quite content, as she afterwards said, that he should strip the premises rather than endanger her life. Hardly a minute had elapsed since I posted myself at the door, vfhere the other kept guard also, when, wondering at the silence, I looked round and saw the latter negro striding to the door with one of my small trunks I rushed to the encounter, met him half way in the " sala," and making a Tain attempt to wrest my property from him, shouted ''Salva guardial" (1) with all my might. He drew a stiletto— (only to frighten me I suppose, for he could easily have taken my life) and found the next day that the only damage it had inflicted was a long slash in the skirt of my dress. He struck me down with his disengaged arm ; I rose at once, and seized hold again, and again I went down. By this time I was considerably excited and^ so much ex- hausted by the knocking down process, that Pompey managed to get through the open door, before I could rise a second time. 1 followed him, however, in an instant and gave •base as far as the corner of the street, where my strength utterly failed. During the last moments of my tussle with the robber, my terror-stricken landlady emerg- ed from her hiding place and looked on in perfect silence ; bat not a soul came to my assistance indoors or out. A man stood in tho window of the opposite house, calmly tlj "Watohmwi." 40 — 1 \^l:': I !i|li.V !!'r ! I ;,. /. :?< I: surveying tho scene, and I passed several persons in the Btreet as I ran in pursuit of the negro, but no one moved hand or foot for his capture. There were two or three men standing at the corner, and 1 tried to biibe them to the attempt, but the glittering dagger was too much for tlieir nerves, and [ never saw negro or trunk again. On the return of the son that evening, a few minutes later, he notified the nearest police magistrate, and that worthy speedily made his appearance, armed with pen, ink and paper A few words told the story, and any officer of ordinary intelligence and activity would at once have started in pursuit, but this man evidently preferred the pen to the sword. He wasted a good deal of time and foolscap in taking down my answers to questions, which did not seem to have any very close connection with the matter in hand. For instance, after inscribing my name, he desired to be made acquainted with my age, my birth- place and religion, and when he had been satisfactorily enlightened on these important points, it was necessary that he should have a full and particular description of all the articles in the trunk. The next day, a higher official took cognizance of the affair, and the same ground was gone over in very much the same manner. Then the neighbours were called up for their evidence, but nobody had seen or heard anything. N.B. — As witnesses in Cuba are very often subjected to much the same treatment as criminals, all spectators become '^ know nothings'^ when called upon for evidence. From the position of the trunk in my room, and the rapidity with which the negro ob tained possession of it in the darkness, suspicion fell on the mulatto cook as his accomplice. She was arrested and examined, l?ut there was no proof against her, and she resumed her post. I estimated my loss at about three hundred dollars ; the trunk contained several articles of jewellery, including a pair of gold bracelets, and several others ; one or two brooches, lace collars and sleeves, books, photographs and various articles of clothing, besides my purse, which fortunately only contained sixteen dollars at the time. The least valuable of the contents was the run away Frenchman's promissory note for three thousand eight hundred and ninety dollars I A friend. Miss L then residing out of town, unfortunately participated in my loss. She had called to see me a few days previously, and on her departure, I found that she had left two or three rings on the washstand. I had placed them ir\ that trunk for security, and they probably now adorn some dusky belle. A month or two later, the standard of rebellion was raised in the vicinity of Manzanillo, and ere long the effects of the war began to be felt in Havana. The time for revolt seemed to me ill-chosen, for the fanatical Bourbon dynasty being expelled, the newly established Republican Govern- ment at Madrid was prepared to grant to the Cubans all 41 the rights and privileges enjoyed by Spaniards in the Pen- insula. But the old regime had so exasperated the Cubans, that nothing short of a total severance from Spain coula satisfy them, and " Viva Cuba libre I " is still their cry. Spain, however, seems as determined to maintain her hold on this — the last and most valuable of her possessions in America. Crippled as she is by civil war within her borders, regiment after regiment is sent out to strengthen the army in Cuba. Day by Day, the hatred between the con- tending factions grew more and more intense, though in Havana^ few Cubans were fool, hardy enough to give much expression to it. But you felt you were treading on a vol- cano, and incidents occurred almost daily, giving evidence that the flames might burst forth at any moment. I wrote to a friend under date *' Jan. 7th, 1869 : ' — " An unfortun- ate attair took place here yesterday, which may lead to an outbreak of hostilities at any hour. A young Cuban having struck a Spanish officer who had jostled him in the street in passing, the latter drew his sword and inflicted a wound of which he died in a few hours. The excitement was intense, and the body was hurried off early this morn- ing to the cemetery by the police. But some Ave or six thousand citizens assembled there, nevertheless, and they say that a request has been made to the new Captain Gen- eral Dulce that there shall be a public funeral .... I suppose in any case of pressing emergency, foreign ladies would take refuge in their respective Consulates or on board the men- of- war in port. But you need not be alarm- ed about our personal safety. Provided we don't shout " Viva Cespedes I " there is no danger, I think I Those who are foolish enough to do so, are silenced by a bullet very speedily." On April 3ni, I wrote, "Within the past month four or five men were shot down not far from this house, simply because they could not keep their mouths shut 1 " For the same offence, about the stole time, two men were garroted. An immense crowd assembled to witness the execution, and a strong military force guarded the scafibld. Permission was given to one of them to make a farewell address, and in the jaws of death, he once more shouted " Viva Cuba libre ! " ("Free Cuba for ever I") It fired the crowd instantaneously, and thousands took up the cry. In a moment the Spanish rifles were levelled at the unarmed mass — a bright flame ran along the line — a ringing discharge followed— and amid the shrieks and the groans of the dying, the souls of the two patriots were sent into eternity. One evening, about the same time, there was a sudden alarm in the streets. Doors and windows were rapidly shut and bolted, and almost immediately rapid and irregular discharges of musketry were heard from various quarters of the city, some even in the next street, amid the snouting. It was kept up for some time, and few in Havana slept "W ^1 : 42 — 1.1 ■i'l IS Ml »1' i1'^^';:i^ that night. The next morning we heard the cause of the outbreak. A Cuban from the ''Aaotea" of a restaurant had thrown a missile at some Spanish volunteers passing in the street below, on which they rushed in and discharg- ed their revolvers at the assembled company. Many foreigners were wounded, an American gentleman among the number. Quickly reinforced by their companions-in- arms, the lawless volunteers ran about the streets, shouting right and left, and winding up with the sacking of Senor A s palatial residence. Senor A was afterwards the President of the Cuban Junta in New York. Happily he and his family had left Havana when this occurred. Eight months of civil war were telling heavily on all classes in the island. Many families had left it and gone North, some to Florida and others to New York. Those who remained were compelled to reduce their expenses^ and teachers suffered in diminished receipts. My heavy losses, too, had weakened my energy, and 1 no longer felt inclined to fight against the tide. There seemed no prospect of a speedy termination of the war, and accord- mgly I sailed on the 14th June for Baltimore, in the steamer Liberty. A five days' voyage brought us to port, where I was met by Mr. W. H. P , the husband of an old and valued friend, who escorted me to their beautitul country-seat, about six miles from the city. The delights of that three weeks' visit will never be effaced from my memory. Coming from the turmoil and discomfort of my Cuban life, it was like an entrance into the Garden of Eden. And, indeed, Mr. P 's taste, energy and skill had made a paradise of those forty acres. The whole property was most beautifully laid out j hill and dale, brooks, crossed here and there by rustic bridges, cool summer houses and noble trees diversified the scene. The house was replete with every comfort and convenience, and the happy Christian household seemed thoroughly to appreciate the blessings they enjoyed. A numerous family made the joy of this hospitable mansion, which was seldom without one or more guests j and on this occasion, Mrs. P — kindly invited my old friend. Miss T. G., then a resident of Baltimore, to join me for a few days. This return to the comfort and security of northern life, and, above all, the society of these two loved friends, was most grateful to my wearied frame. Life began to take a different hUe, and very soon I found myself on the croquet ground once more. As two elder daughters were charming girls, and bid fair ^ to be worthy of their mother. There wer« two younger ones also, a most lovable little pair, and three fine boys. On my journey to New York, in July, I had the pleasure of Mr. P.'s company and that of his two elder daughters ; and there I parted from them with the greatest regret. During the three following months which I spent with my friends in the State of New York and Connecticut, I was most anxiously awaiting remittances from Cuba. by a le of the sstaurant I passing discharg- Many D among n ions- in- shouting of Senor yards the ippily he i. ly on all ,nd gone Those ixpenses^ 'Y heavy »ger felt smed no i accord- , in the 1 to port, id of an 3eautitul delights from my irt of my irden of nd skill e whole id dale, 68, cool > scene, enienoe, ighly to IS family ) seldom ^TS. P— lident of . to the all, the teful to nt hue, nd once rls, and are two ree tine lad the 70 elder ;reatest I spent scticut, Cuba. )v .^j;:^ j.:^-"^ ^r:y^:iy's''--''-i^'^^' "'■^W': — 43-^-- Being unable to obtain payment of all my dues on leaving Havana, 1 had entrusted my papers to a young American lady, Mrs. A. S., a widow who was ."^Iso supporting herself by teaching, and who had lived three weeks in the same boarding house with me. She had seemed to me a person of excellent principle, thoroughly amiable and trust- worthy, and when she promised to look after my interests to the best of her ability, my mind was at once set at rest. One of the papers was a promissory note signed by Senor C , of the Bank of Commerce, in my favor, tor Three Hundred and Thirty Dollars, with interest payable monthly. At that time I happened to be the owner of two watches, and shortly before leaving Havana, knowing nay wish to find a purchaser for one of them, Mrs. S. informed me that a friend of her's would take it if I did not require cash payment. I replied that I was in no immediate need of the money, that her friend, whom she represented as the wife of an jngineer officer, could have the watch (a very pretty goid one, and an excellent time keeper), and I would await the payment until the first two months' interest on the promissory note became due, when she could remit the whole amount by cheque. Ail this she promised most faithfully to do, and I left for the north most thankful to have found such a friend, foi neither of the Misses L— — were then residing in the city, and my other friends had already departed for New York. I ex- pected the first remittance about the end of July, but August passed and the silence was unbroken. Finally my repeated enquiries drew an answer from her, informing mei that the first two months' interest had been duly paid by Senor C , and remitted to me in gold by a private opportunity — (a lady going to New York,) but that the watch had not yet been paid for. Nor did I ever receive a cent for it, and with the exception of a cheque for about twenty seven dollars, U. S. Currency, no remittances from Mrs. S. ever reached me ; I wrote and wrote, but in vain. Fmally I ascertained that Senor C had paid the note when due, principal and interest, to Mrs. S. ; that she had got into difficulties and left for New York. Beyond that point I lost all trace of her ; and yet to this day, when I recall to mind that sweet, innocent -looking face, lean not believe that she meant to wrong me. CHAPTER ELEVENTH. A PEW REMimSCBNOBS OF THE LATE WAR IN THE UNITED STATES, Throughout the war 1 continued to have the satisfaction of hearing, from time to time as opportunity aftbrded, from my valued friend, Mrs. A. H. S-^-— of South Carolina. Her letters are rare models of epistoWy style, and the contributions of her graceful pen are among the most treasured in my collection. But apart fronc their literary merit, the stirring scenes amidst which they werie written 'A ;i .•iJ •>y ', ' .1 '■,A ■ .He — 44 — pi' '!':': k »l;i ')!'; I t.i.'; I I' 1 1 I V f]*;'!;/ if :? give them a peculiar interest, a!hd I am sure she will pardon the liberty I am taking in sharing some extracts with my readers. ,/^, „,,,, Rbst Park, S. cJ Atignei 23rd, 1861 . Have you never remarked in your own experience, that we sometimes bear two or three trials better than one ? When C had been sick a month, and was just sitting up a lutle, we were much startled one day by hearing that P was downstairs. Of course we sus- pected directly that he was on his way to Virginia and so it proved. He had met at Grahamville an old college friend who was '• recruiting" for Gregg's Hegiment, and had enlisted without waiting to consult us (which was certainly most prudent) and after a three days' visit he was off! At tirst it seemed to me more than I could bear, but my attempts to " be careful for nothing^c," have met with some success, tho' I do not pretend to cheerfulness yet. Well, our troubles still increased. We brought only ii^eg (1 and Charlotte (2) up this year — the latter very ailing — and about a fortnight ago she was taken sick and Was quite ill for some days — dangerously so — and tho' better now, can scarcely lift her hand or speak six words together. Her recovery is still very doubtful. You who never owned one, cannot know the anxiety and responsi- bility we endure on these occasions I must not conclude without a word on politics. The ladies here have been very long working for the sick and wounded. Our clergyman, Mr. R , called a meeting before the great battle on hearing of the hospital wants. About twenty- four ladies subscribed seven hundred dollars (a part of which was spent in materials and made up immediately) and gave besides stores from their own supplies which tilled seven boxes. Eight dozen bottles o^' vine, cordials &c., formed one item. I had nothing to ve in this line except the white sugar I brought up for preserves. My sewing machine, however, did good service on the work. Amid our joy and thankfulness for the victory we gained at Manasses, were mingled much sympathy for friends or acquaintances who lost their loved ones on that bloody field. Gen. B 's sisters, and indeed his whole family, we have known intimately since our childhood. Col. J was for years our neighbor at Rest Park. Mrs. H. A. M of this community lost a son. invaluable to her, aged thirty two. Dr. H , a much est emed physician of Asheville, lost a son, younger still } but he was pious, and the poor mother, though sick in bed, is oalm and resigned. Oh, what a cruel wicked thing is this war ; and what do they expect to gain by it I Nothing that I can see, but to turn the starving poor from their doors to ours. But they will [1] Thedevotbd olduurse.— C. E. U. [2] The daughter of Peg, aad'au excellent i^uri -u>uld.--C. £■■ H- 'I"': '':^f^>: ;\.i,v,.;- ,ii^;,»::,5/ I'' — 45 — own trials and eday 8U8- nd so Uege and was ut he bear, emet ilness only very and tho' vords who yet demaida fearl'ii rotribution, I trust, from -the true authors. Mr. H , ti the privateer Savannah, now in the Tomba, is our cousixv — a gentle, quiet, useful man. Do tell me what you do about Utters now. (I) I see oflers to rairy letters via Louisville, but at a monstrous charge. IVo are anxiously looking for Beauregard's next movement. /' is in H 's company, Gregg's Regiment, now at Richmond. i,,/ j. .^ I , '. ■ > 'v. ■. ' " """''■' '■•' ' ■-'^*' '':.-}• ',-■!.■ ' iw i!.i u \o South Saxtbb, January 31 st, 1862. t^"v We left our quiet retreat at Summervilel (wliltfre we had spent three weeks with the G's) and came here on the 5th December, and here we expect to 1 3main if not driven oft by an invasion. Tom has a troop of horse [90] encamped, with three companies of infantry, at the sea shore, seven miles oif, and a picket nearer still, to give notice of any danger *, but I think we are too insigniticant to provoke an attack. The rice is going rapidly to t'io city, and there could be no motive but the destruction of property. My father was at Pinckney Island during the battle at Port Royal ; left it the next day and only escaped Fort Lafayette by half an hour, for before he embarked to leave, the Yankees had landed on the other shore and asked for him by name 1 He moved all the negroes from the Island to the main, whence, the next night, they returned by stealth, carrying those on the ma^in back with them — 300 in all— not one of whom has ever returned. They asked a year ago "if it was true that a Mr. Linkhorn was going to make them free." Papa had just given them a large supply of excellent wollen cloth, a great satisfac- tion to couDsin H now. Mr. S [ ^] went immediate- ly to Rest Park, and moved away the r rniture, but found the negroes so unwilling to leave their houses, that he gave it up. The cattle were driven oft and sold to the Quarter Master, which gives us a little money for present use. The crops were mtich larger than we ever made before I The provisions he gave to the negroes and was moving the cotton to the mam, when the Yankees sud- denly appeared at Beat Park m large numbers, and took possession of the house and negroes, and everything else. This was on Sunday, the 8 th December. They immediately ' commenced making a fortification at the landing, and often amuse themselves by shelling H. S— ^ — 's house. But " the worst of my tale is yet to tell." I had allowed Peg to go to the neighborhood to see her family, and Mr. S carried her over to spend a few days, intenaing to remove them edl (the house servants, I mean and her family particularly,) on Monday to Mr. P 's plantation — but A' u s ■ie. y. oi .a 11 [1] I was tben at South I«land, South Corolina.- [2] The htitband of the writer. -C. K. H. i^ nr -'- ^■1; li w mlt,; ' (J' ' W!' ^~ ':| alas f he was twenty-four hours too late, aud i have now the care of C and the little boys without J*eg. Thi^ is by far " the unkindest cut of all" and one that I beconoe. duily more sensible of — , We have found planting 8o unprofitable, that should the government idemnify planters for their losses, I believe we would be richer if we never saw the field negroes again. Meantime we must only wait patiently the issue and hope for the best. It is rather aggravating to think of those wretches cutting down our precious oaks — wearing camellias in their button holct-, and sitting (I had almost written spitting) at our very hearth stone — but our cause is in the hands of a just God, and I never doubt the event for a moment. Here my father has a grand old house — my family in^' habit one wing, his the other, and the middle is left to itself, Mama, feeling so uncertain about our stay that she has never fitted np the drawing room this winter. The house was built by Mrs. R. M. atler the revolution, and is only too grand for the fortunes of her descendants. There are old-fashioned shrubberies around the house, and in it (what you will be interested in) quantities of old letters from Washington, Jeflerscn, Lafayette, Tarleton (about his taking Grandmother M 's horses) and innumerable others ; my Grandfather's credentials to the Courts of St. James and Madrid, beautifully written on parchment, and signed by Washington — and all sorts of antiquities, down to China shepherdesses on the mantel piece. I am indeed fortunate in having a place o? refuge with my parents, instead of having to board or keep house on nothing. Wild ducks abound here, and the deer only want some one to hunt them. Even camellias are sent to us constantly by a neighbour, and M has abundance of violets in bloom P got a furlong and paid us a flying visit about 1st December ; went to Rest Park, and rode into Beaufort one night (attended only by George) saw no Yankees — indeed nothing but empty houses and slamming windows — returned to Suffolk, where, at last accounts, they were under marching orders for Pamlico, to meet Burnside. But they have lost Gregg, and with him (they say) half their value in the field. M was at Cousin H 's during the fire — moved to the R 's with her, and was again burned out 1 Twice in one night 1 Strange to say, Cousin H does not mind the loss of the old family mansion near as much as we do." i ff '1 u- J*' '"Jar {iA J (';' ' ,.., Fli-t Rook, N. C, January 6th, 1863. ....*.... Our home at Santee is not considered safe for ladies now. There was a gun-boat expedition up the river during the summer, when three hundred negroes were carried off" from our nearest neighbor's, the house and all the buildings burned ; and a party had actually (>) t'j >> 47 ;' reached our house (no doubt for the same purpose) when ,t^' the sound of firing in the woods changed their course. .1' Tom and his troopers had arrived in time to save it, but • r did not catch the destroyers; after exchanging shots they J< made the best time for tne gunboat. A piece of artillery :i' was brought and fired on the boat from our shrubberies, ■ and in return they shelled the place, but only injured one of the brick arches which supported the Portico. Next to i the invaders, the negroes made the best time, having run ii up the river so fast that a mounted man could not over- 'i take them 1 The fact of the boat having been fired on •.' from our house, will no doubt ensure its destruction if •if anol'^'er raid is attempted So that we really are •11' living in times of " much tribulation." God has put us in the furnace but not abandoned us there, and when His ends are accomplished, and He sees fit to remove His chastisements of sickness and war, I trust we shall come ^' forth a " a peculiar people, zealous of good works." But V you will want to#iear particulars about yov friends. It ' is rather dangerous to begin with P , (1) as I may get no further, but I will venture. He has been safely through the whole campaign, often in the heaviest fire, and had bullets through his clothes, but I am most thankful to say • was perfectly unharmed. He is in Jackson's army, A. P« : Hill's Division, Gregg's Brigade, l-t Regt. S. C. V. Our ' success at FredericksbuiMis deariy paid for in the loss of Gregg. P writes "we feel like orphans" At Manasses, ^ Gregg's Brigade alone resisted three attempts to break through the line, made each time by the Brigades ol fresh troop-:. Many more were made after they had reinforce- [' ments, but all in vain. They were terribly reduced ; and on the second day when P was in command of the t company, it consisted of ten men. The shout of victory, f he says, was the finest music he ever heard, as it rose and r swelled and swelled for miles along the line. After Sharps- bug, Jackson ordered promotions to fill vacancies, and P was the first selected in his Regiment, for " gallantry and meritorious conduct, from Chickahominy to Sharps* burg." But he dechned rather than leave his company | and so is second Lieutenant still. The officer who has been in command of the regiment most of the campaign, lately « met some friends of mine in Columbia, and spoke of P ' in the handsomest manner, not only for his conduct in battle " When he had watched him in such showers of bullets that he expected every moment to see him fall." but for his general conduct, saying he was "extremely beloved" and " a model of a Christian soldier." Now if that was not enough to make a mother happy, what could do it I ' One of the most curious effects of the war is that the cows give so little 'milk, that butter has long been as [I] Tha writer's eldeit son. •I -■»; — 48 !i, fill, t T urn I m rare as bliick tea on our table. However, we all glory in our privations, and wear homespun and course leather shoes with much more pride than we felt in silk and French gaiters (now twenty dollars per pair.) I hope the victories of Fredericksburg and Murireesboro' (which news just comes to us to-day) will help to bring on peace. Have you seen Timrod's beautiful Christmas Hymn ? Peace is its burden We have many military heroes in our army. Lee is not only a (Jeneral, but a splendid-looking man, of most polished manners, modest and courteous ; and a member of our Church. He has lost his sweetest daughter lately. Jackson is a rough specimen, but devotedly pious, and idolized by his men. Would you have suspected him of disguising himself in the day of battle ? Yet so he did, at Fredericksburg, where he came out so fine in a new uniform that his own men did not know him at first. When they did, you may be sure they made the welkin ring, as much perhaps from J'un as en^jusiasm — for there IS a great deal of fun going on among the "ragged re- bels" always. Of course we are delighted at having our favorite hero (Beauregard) in Charleston again. Some people are, however, getting out of patience at being kept so long " expecting the attack." Where are those Ironclads ? Strange to say, we see as many extracts from the New York "Herald," "'ftribune." "Times" &c., in our papers as we ever did I The groans of the last over Fredericksburg were indeed lamentable. Lee is reported to have said that he ' would give all the dead and wound- ed Yankees to have G^regg back." And Cobb too — one of our "Brothers Cheeryble I" The North has no uch men to lose , ;,-i r .0«> .'■#'. V.il«!«KJ<-^ ^^^ Although I sent you a letter lately by Mr. H (by Whom I hope to receive an answer), yet, as another direct opportunity offers to New York. I will send you another sheet. Dr. N— ^^ — , who cai'ries tnis, will return in a short time, and t shall ask him to write his address on the back Of my envelope, so that you may reply by him also. Mails, we hiive none, and I very seldotn seie a newspaper, yet We hear frequently from our friends by privldte opportunities. So much for being on the Rail Road. Living ih New York, amidst wealth and Itixury, you. can seardely imagine our conditidn here. Privations which we — 52 mi' m. .1,' ■;i r'v ■I: ,: I I bore with the utmost cheerfulness when we had independ- ence before us, now press heavily. The awful crash in which our cause went down, was so sudden that there was no time or opportunity to provide against loss — indeed, we were too much occupied with our country's losses to think about money — and the twenty thousand dollars we had in the house in Confederate bonds, etc., is now waste paper. Of silver or greenbacks we do not own one dollar^ and shall not unless we have some cotton to sell in November. But tho' we miss many of what we formerly considered necessaries — and a cake of soap, or a spool of thread is now a magnificent present (I have lately received such) — yet I am thankful to say we are always provided with food and raiment, and I feel quite satiBt d Ood will not let us want. Most of the sum I have memtioned be- longed to Mr. S. 's sisters, who are left quite destitute. S — -— is now doing their own washing and ironing. 1 don't know whether she repents now her cruelty to a score of lovers. One advantage in our sudden beggary is that people have to work so hard they have no time to brood over our sad, short history and downfall. Some of our first young men are driving wagons (where the railroads were destroyed by Sherman) and supporting their mothers and sisters in this way. Some are ploughing — some teaching — some keeping stores. My nephew C has got a place as Tutor in Abbeville village, near us ; and a Miss B — — is governoFs there, more fortunate than her sister, who is cooking for u family of motherless nieces in Sumter. But poverty is less trying than the humiliations we have had to endure. Hatch is considered ready to do whatever will make the U. S. Government mo5< odious to us, and, of course, the sending of negro troops among us stands pre- eminent in the list. On the very day I sent you my last letter, a negro company arrived at Abbeville, C. H., another having been left at Edgefield — places that were perfectly quiet. But they had escaped pillage from the Yankees in the spring, so I suppose this infliction was to make %11 alike. Their appearance immediately drew cr<)wd8 of negroes fK>m their work to visit the village, and these visitors were treated by their sable champions to a hall. Any negro who chose to complain of his Or her master, was listened to, and white men, escorted through the streets by negro soldiers, were fined and imprisoned by i^e captain, on negro testimony. The fines, I suspect, .wept into his pocket After many weeks' endurance the , !0itiiens succeeded in getting them exchanged for a white guard, but before leaving the blacks shot one of the latter ,U) a private gentleman's entry, and went oft unpunished. In Charleston, they do not escape so. My brother writes that collisions betwe«i the white and black troops are of occurrenpe, and that the latter always get the worst ,if it. Poor wretches I seduced to a course they would never have entered, and then shot down by their quondam — 53 — friends 1 My brother found George and Peg in Charleston — the latter delighted to hear of us, and has scut me some I6ng cloth left with her before the war! I fear ^eorge is too thriving to return to us as a servant. He piants on James Island \iith two hired hands! Some negroes have fone oft' to seek their fortunes, leaving young children to e supported by their former owners. One of our richest and proudest families was sr treated in Columbia. Only one old woman remained to do house work, and these children have since had smallpox and been nursed through it by their late owners ! Soon after Sherman's army had passed, a farmer riding in their track, saw some living things huddled up in a lence corner by the road side, and goin^ up. found fourteen little negroes, all very young, keepmg warm by squatting close together. Their mothers had carried them oft in following the army, and finding them unable to keep up, preferred leaving them behind to parting from their new protectors. The farmer got persons in the neigtiborhood to share the children among them for humanity's sake. One hardly regrets to hear that these mothers were probably among the hundreds drowned in the Catawba, when, deserted by the Yankees, they attempted to follow them on some miserably-constructed rafts. One circumstance that occurred at Pendleton was so singular I must mention it. About the 1st May, a raid- ing party went there. Turned from the village by some determined young men, they visited some residences around for pillage. At one of these a Yankee soldier used such dreadful language in presence of the family, that Mr. A (a Presbyterian minister) repiv>ved him, and told him that God would never prosper him. The wretch replied that " he feared neither God, man, nor devils." They then took their departure, and as this miscreant was mounting his horse at the front-door, his own pistol went oft' and killed him instantly, the ball passing upwards, through the tongue which had just uttered those words, into the brain I This story is so remarkable that I would not believe it till 1 had the testimony of my brother and another minister to its truth. When I said that we bad not a dollar, you must not sup- pose that we never get anything. Trading is the custom of this country. Most of the refugees have eaten up old clothes enough to kill ordinary people. I am now having homespun dresses woven for our use next winter, for which I am to give an old calico dress and a mantilla. I sent you a piece of M.'s last homespun. It is as warm as merino, but too heavy for any but a very cold climate. Many persons live by exchanging the wool from their mattresses with the country people for food. We, who are on a plantation, have less trouble of this kind, as we raise com, bacon, vegetables and poultrv^ and have lately had a pre- sent of 80U6 browa sugar (what luxury ! ) ffom a refugee whom we had befriended. Lights are perhaps our greatest fi — 54 4-:^i. 11 ^i'' fell:, •II' ^51. 111/ want. Lightwood is very pleasant in winter, but not in summer. We hope to get a lamp going in the parlour by winter. Moonlight nights are a great help to us . . . A Mr. B , of our village, lately went down to Charleston to claim his house. He found it occupied hy a Yankee, who refused even to let him sleep in the piazza. Finding his former cook was living next door, he took refuge with her and was hospitably treated, as is universally the case. l The Yankee proceedings have been more injudicious at 8antee tl)an elsewhere, and idleness, pillage and vagabondism have reigned supreme. On the whole, however, the negroes who have escaped contact with the Yankees, have behaved remarkably well. We are to have a negro wedding to-night, and have just given out our last dried apples to make citrons for the cake, but our trading habits have so reduced our stock of old finery that we cannot fit out the buxom bride as we would like and as she deserves. A present of turpentine soap for toilet pur- poses to both parties, was, I assure you, most gratefully received. , South Santeb, Jan., I7th, 1870. ..... A sad event for us has just occurred here in the breaking up of the only family in the neighborhood with which we were intimate. They lost their negroes by emancipation, and after trying to make something out of their lands with free labour for four years, have given up the effort and resigned their paternal home and lands to creditors. This is the history of hundreds who have not, like these friends, relatives elsewhere able to shelter them. . . . . . MoClbllanvillb, S. C, April 19th, 1875. "contrast" weeks ago was brought to my A Mrs. S . of Another mind very forcibly a few Edisto, whose garden cost 170,000, now lives in the Confe- derate Home, where she has a room free of rent, but must feed herself. Her plate being exhausted, she does coarse work to buy food, and a lady lately met her carrying home a small parcel, which she showed hei . It contained a slice of bacon, which, with hominy, was to be her dinner I It is very discouraging to find that ten years after the war we are still so poor. Our miserable State Govern- ment, supported by ''universal suffrage" or niggerdom, is the cause . .'l lilt I 11 '< ■I 1/1 (.■!l il xJ" ;■ ■, ■ .. —56— '■ i:.- :;'■'• ''-■^'■.. >-' ■'^il 'I li. EJP tm m private family in Quebec. I had also, on my voyage from New York to Aapinwall the preceding year, become ao quaioted with the Rev. Dr. H , Chaplain to thh British Legation at Lim i, and then returning to his poHt after a visit to his relations in England. This gentleman had kindly promised his assistance in forwarding my views should I decide ;it any time in establishing myself in Lima, and as I had announced my intention by a previous mail, I now landed with a lighter heart, feeling that I was not going among entire strangers. Mr. D Lad most kindly requested Mr. E his agent in Callao, to meet me on board, and this gentleman, relieving me from all trouble about my baggage, escorted me to the cars, which after a half- hour's journey, brought us to the capital, which stands some five hundred feet above the level ol the sea. At the Railway terminus I found Mr. D awaiting me with an invitation to his house, which was only a short walk from the Depot and a warm welcome from his kind- hearted, whole-souled wife, soon made me feel at home. H and Miss. W called the same day, and the Rev. Dr. H a day or two later. After resting a day or two, I sent my other letters of introduction to their respective addresses, and I had every reason to be pleased with the hospitality which they evoked. Among others I had letters to the Charge d'affaires of France, the Count de Monclar, and to the Hon. W. Staftbrd Jerningham, H. B. M. Charg6 d'affaires, now Resident Minister. Both responded most promptly. The Count, a young unmarried man, and a relation of Mr. Jerningham' s, seemed to combine in his character the solid qualities of the Englishman with the courtly polish of the Frenchman. Mr. Jerningham, (a brother of Lord Stafford's, and heir, I believe, to the title) is a fine model of the stately old English gentleman. He married a Peruvian lady, one of the most charming women I ever met. Well educated and with intellectual tastes, a highly accomplished musician, and a most agreeable hostess — the many pleasant evenings I spent at her house are among the most delightful of myreminisencesof Peru. I was also much indebted to the kind hospitality of Mrs. H , the sister in-law of the Chaplain, and to her active friendship I owe much of the success which attended my career in Lima from the very outset. During the summer season, which begins in December and lastd unti! May, the upper classes In Lima, almost without excepMon, remove from the city to one or other of the watering places in the vicinity. Of these Chorillos, some seven miles distant by rail, is the most fashionable, and after a few weeks spent in preliminary arrangements, I bade adieu to my kind entertainers, Mr. and Mrs. D — — and their two interesting little boys, took up my quarters at the Hotel Pedro, in the above mentioned little town, and immediately commenced work at the rate of one hundred and sixty four dollars a month, Peruvian currency. — 65 — In the course of my stay, I often reached three hundred and fifty. My expenses however, were rather heavy. I paid thirty dollars a month for my room and attendance, and separately for each meal and dish, as well as cup of cottee. Ten cents was the usual price of a plate of soup ; from twenty to thirty cents for a small piece of beefsteak ; five cents for a potato ; from ten to fif teen cents for a fried egg, &c., &c. I have known beef as high as eighty cents, and even a sol (a hundred cents) a pound, and butter has reached the same price. Washing, too, was very expensive. Ten cents a pair were often charged for stockings and cuffs, a plain linen collar was never less than five cents and four dollars was a common price for a flounced dress. The hotel being full of foreigners, I took my meals in my own room, which I rarely left except to go out and ; give my lessons. This change from the cheerful home- life at Mr. D's to solitary confinement in a hotel was not at all pleasant, and I was truly glad when the close of the season permitted my return to Lima. The Leat too was ' greater than I had expected. I had been told that the thermometer never rose above 86© , but I found my faith somewhat severely tested. Of course that was " an unpre- cedented season." One longed occasionally for a good heavy storm of thunder and rain to vary the monotony of cloudless sunshine, but rain is a luxury almost unknown in those latitudes. In winter there is sometimes a faint imitation of it about night- fall, but no one ever thinks of using an umbrella. In my ignorance, I ventured to raise one once or twice, but the phenomenon elicited such com- ments from the passers-by, that I speedily collapsed. The thermometer does not vary, they say, more than twenty- five to thirty degrees all the year round. On the whole I was very much pleased with Peru and the Peruvians, and much preferred the climate to that of Cuba. I met with great kindness from all classes, and found them, as a rul-^, more reliable than most of the Latin races. The large preponderance too, of English and Americans, m the foreign element, contributed much to my contentment. Ill-health, however, pursued me here as elsewhere, and shortly after my. arrival, I placed myself under the care of the good old Dr. D , a German homeopathist of great skill, and followed his prescriptions, often with much benefit, during my residence in the country. Lima is a city of churches, convents and monasteries ; you can see one from almost any comer. Many of them are very rich and handsome, and profusely adorned within and without, with the most elaborate sculpture. Pizarro lies buried in the ancient cathedral. The quaint looking old building, not far distant, formerly used as the Inquisi- tion, is now devoted to the Sessions of Congress. Formerly an open. drain ran through the middle of each street in Lima, but some ten years ago, during the mayoralty of ;|.s hi' it' .J';-: ■w Mr. Pardo, the- present enlightened ruler of the Republic, vigorous measures were commenced for the improvement ot the city, and when I left in 1873 but a few of those un- sightly objects remained, and those only in the outskirts. The streets ai-e now in general well paved, well lighted,, and kept very clean, the scavengers and their carts making their rounds nightly. There are several pretty Alamedas as well as handsome Plazas, and the grounds and Palace of the Exposition would do credit to any capital in Europe. The dress goods a.e chiefly of French importation. The shops are richly furnished and require purses of the same description. There is a vast deal of wealth in the city, and the decrees of Longchamps are implicitly obeyed, regardless of expense. Statistics are not my forte, but I have an impression that the inhabitants number about two hundred thousand. Boarding houses do not exist in Lima, (a circumstance which I regretted the less after ray experience in Havana) and as the hotels were undesirable residences for single ladies, I hired a room in a private house on my return from Chorillos, furnished it in the simplest manner, and engaged a boy to bring me my meals from the nearest restaurant. But a more thoroughly good for-nothing, faithless and unreliable set than the domestics of Lima I have never met. The complaint is general, foreigners and natives sutler alike. The disappearance of a cook with the money for the marketing is an every day occurrence, and the laund- resses often keep your clothes for four, five and six weeks at a time. Living alone as I did, this wretched system, or rather want of system, often caused me the greatest suffer- ing. Returning home, often after eight hours' teaching, with aching head and wearied limbs, I ;jvould throw myself on my couch to await my dinner. Hour after hour would pass — perhaps my attendant would come at last (always with some ready-made falsehood) or perhaps he would not come at all. And then in desperation, I have some- times rushed to my balcony, beckoned to the first boy T saw passing in the street, thrust my " porta- vianda" and money into his hand, and trusted his promise to bring me something to eat. I suppose I i' >ked as miserably as 1 felt, and that I was indebted on each occasion to the com- passion of my messenger for the suc6ess of the expedient. One evening, when sufl'ering most acutely from a pain in the side which afflicted me for over a year, having no assistance at hand, I was oblige d to rise, go out to purchase mustard loi a plaster, and prepare it myself. During the last year of my stay in Lima, these desertions of my Chino were not so severally felt, for my health being better, I could again sally forth and always find a welcome at some friendly board. The political history of Peru diifers little from that of her sister Republics. One revolution follows another so It I 'ill. *h:|! > ' .. fast, that the world abroad scarce thinks them worth notice, tind few ever care to read the details. For more than fifty years a military despotism had held the country in its iron grasp, and the hopes of the small minority of Liberals were almost extinct. To the patriotism of Manuel Pardo they were indebted for new lift in the year 1871, and from that date the work of regeneration, under Lis influence, has steadily progressed. Slowly indeed — for thedifKculties with which he has to contend are countless. Elected to the Presidency in the following year,— the first civilian «yer nominated to the office, — he found an empty ex- chequer and the country plunged in debt. Fraud and peculation, bribery and corruption pervaded every depart- ment, and he devoted all the energies of his active mind and highly cultivated intellect to the task of a thorough reform. Thousands were dismissed from the army, which was completely reorganized. Several battalions of National Guards were raised, and to them the defence of the coun- try was chiefly entrusted. Of course the disbanded soldiers have swelled the ranks of Mr. Pardo' s enemies, and many attempts on his life have been the consequence — to say nothing of a revolutionary '^emeiife now and then in the country districts. But they are invariably put do. i with a firm hand, and I doubt if they will be repeated very often. Mr. Pardo is very popular with the large majority of his countrymen, and I have faith to believe that they will sustain him in his salutary measures, distasteful though they may be for the time being. His successor will reap the benefit of them, unless, as I hope, a change in the laws of Congress, permits an -Bxtension of his term of office. Mr. Pardo' s two elder boys were among my first pupils, and his steady friendship and that of his amiable wife, was of much advantage to me in my professional career. My pupils were both intelligent, and the elder was uncom- monly clever. Mr. P has a numerous and a very fine family ; the eldest little girl was an especial favorite of mine, and I regretted much that she was still too young for the school-room. For several months 1 had the plea- sure of giving English lessons to one of Mr. Panic's sisters- in law, and it was with the greatest regret that I parted wi*h her when her delicate health necessitated a voyage to Europe. I had several other adults among my' "discipulas" in Lima, desirous of acquiring the English language, and the hours I spent in their instruction are among the most agreeable of my recollections. I especially enjoyed the society of the Senorita J. B ; the SenoritaT. C , who took lessons in company with her brother- in-law, Senor Don J. C, a gentleman in every sense worthy of the name ; the Senorita S. I., the Senorita A. B., and the Senorita P. P. S. They all made rapid progress, and seem- ed to take as much pleasure in receiving, as I felt in — 68 — ml II If.;;' i w m Ih imparting instruction to them, while their unfailing couj^ tesy and icindness left nothing to be desired. Having known the convi'nience of the Spanish mantilla in Havana, I frequently availed myself of the *'manta" in Peru. Much heavier in material than the former, it is far less graceful in appearance, but its convenience atones for its deticiency in that respect. It is generally made of black cashmere, about a yard and a half in width, and three in length, and wrapped in its folds which leave only the face and the lower part of the skirt visible, all the imperfections of a hasty toilet pass unnoticed. The face is more or less covered at the option of the wearer, and in cold weather you generally see nothing but a pair of eyes. Among the wealthier classes the '* manta' ' is often made of richly em broidt red black Canton crape. At church it is worn by all classes, but elsewhere, in full dress, its use has been discontinued by the younger Peruvian ladies in favor of Parisian hats and bonnets of the latest style. CHAPTER FOURTEENTH. Peru continued. — Extracts from my Journal. As the political horizon grew darker and darker, and the public excitement seemed daily on the increase, I made an etibrt to keep some record of passing events, and I trust the result may interest the reader in some degree. At this time, Colonel Jose Balta occupied the Presidental Chair, and though his term of office was about expiring, it was supposed that he would retain it vi et armis, even in the event of Mr. Pardo's election. Balta was a man of low origen, no education, harsh in manners and appearance, most violent in temper, and with little to recommend him but his personal bravery, and his ardent affection for his youngest child, of which latter trait I was often a witness. At the date of my first extract I had been giving tri-weekly lessons at the palace to his daughters, two of whom were grown up. Though he trampled on all laws one could not but lament the terrible fate which shortly overtook him. JOURNAL. Saturday, July 13th, 1872. — ^The new Congress assembled to-day amid the ringing of bells and the firing of cannon. Many expected a serious outbreak among the rival parties, and there was something of a row within the Hall at the opening, but quiet was restored without the aid of the ubiquitous gens-d'armes. Balta is doing all he can to im- press the people, i. e., the Pardistas, with a sense of his power. The urmy has been recruited by press gangs throughout the country, and there are now in Lima over eight thousand men, admirably armed and equipped. They parade the streets at all hours. I heard the bands of three regiments BnanssesRSPan im — 69 — )UJ^ tilla 'in far for e of and only the face in the other day, within a three minutes' walk. While many of Mr. Pardo's friends are sanguine of success, others fear that Government gold will be too much for him. Of course with his advent to power all the illegal acts of Balta's ad- ministrators would be annulled, and a pretty strict reckoning made with all these reckless violators of law and liberty. A general feeling of uneasiness prevails. A coup d'etat of some kind is expected. Many think Balta will proclaim himself Dictator, and dissolve the Congress if it does not work to order. Santa Marin is Balta's " Antonelli" and decidedly superior to his master in intellect, education and manners. To me the only pleasing trait in Balta's character is his passionate fondness for his little Maria, a child of about three years of age. He frequently comes into the drawing room in the morning, carrying her in his arms from the nursery, where he seeks her the first thing. I asked him for his card this morning, to be used as a passport ; for though the sentinels ought to know me pretty well by this time, I am often detained some miM- utes before they can be thoroughly assured tha I have no designs upon any besides the three daughters ' the Pres- ident, and that whatever shooting may take pla(k| will be in connection with the " young idea" The little entre- sol below my room has been taken by the Padre M ; Jie came up the first evening after taking possession to ofler me his services both as priest and neighbor, for which I thanked him very kindly. Sunday, July 1 Ath. — 1 went this afternoon to see Mrs. T , to recommend Miss W as resident governess. Said all I could for her ; that the B— — 's were highly pleased with hei, that H's improvement under her instruc- tion had been most marked &c. &c. Mrs. T said she would consult her husband, and send Miss W an answer Have been much interested readins; the " Guardian," an English Church paper, l«'at me by Dr. H. Dined at Mrs B's j a comfortable English viinner and good {)lain people. ...M — has been having harder times than ever ately ; the reins have been tightened, for a final struggle ; however emancipation'? comes with her majority on the 25th My constant visitor Madame G tells me Di^. D.-has cured young S's lameness^ after the allopathic doctors had decided that it was necessary his leg should be "extracted." Her little girl, whom she sorrowfu^y described to me one day as being " much decayed" is now in excellent health. She brought her husband, a vaurien on good behaviour just now, — to see me, and in the course of conversation informed me that he ppoke English also. So I perceived when he presently enquired — " Miss where have you been born ?" But if Madam* G. is not a perfect English scholar, she is an excellent kind hearted woman, and her gratitude and devotion to me seem most genuine. Tuesday^ July \^th. — Breakfasted at Mrs. L's. I hear I 70 — I I am very thankful to have had it in my power to help her. that D. is to be married soon to Senor M ; that accounts for her giving up her English studies last month. I re- gretted it much, for she is rhe brightest of the three Dined vith my kind friends the D 's, Mr. and Mrs. K. make a pleasant addition to their domestic circle I have had to invest lately in a fresh stock of handkerchiefs and stockings, not having been blessed with a sight of my laundress for more than five weeks. Have made a series of fruitless exploring expeditions through divers " calle- jones" in search of her. Good Mrs. D. has come to my rescue in the cuff and collar line. N. B., the fortune might be advantageously applied to the defaulter when caught 5 the choler would certainly not be wanting. Thursday, July ISth. — Mr. Pardo's party, I am delighted to hear, is gaining ground every hour inJJ Congress in spite of all the opposing elements. They say Gutuer. ., the Minisyter of War, is blowing mischief. He and the army generally are violently opposed to Pardo, knowing that the latter will be reduced when he assumes the reins Miss W. called to hear the result of my application in her behalf. I was sorry I could teli her nothing more definite. Saturday, July 20th. — Mrs. B. told me that the weddmg would take place there (at the Palace) on Monday evening at eight o'clock. D. came in for a moment esplendent in a new blue silk morning wrapper, faced with white silk. Breakfasted at the L's, I saw their invitation to the wed- ding. A plain card, about six inches square printed in this style, as nearly as I can recollect : *' E M su'^licia al 8enor D. D. L. y Senor a el honor de presenciar su matrimonio con la Senorita D B , el 22 del cor- riente, a las ocho de la tarde." Strangely enough no place is mentioned, but it is gen- erally known that the Palace and not the Church is to be the scene of action. It is said that Mr. M. placed a six thousand dollar bill in the album of one of Batta's daughters on her birthday A long and interesting letter from M. gladened me to-dai£ ; also one from H., who did not reach New York until the 17th June I having spent eight days on that horrid Isthmus. I hope I shall be more for- tunate when I go on. A letter too, at last, from my dear friend A sent another cheque to E. by this mail. Eusebio is falling off in his attendance ■, sometimes I have to wait an hour for dinner, which is rather hard when one comes home tired and hungry. One of the Celestials be- longmg to the family below seems a good-heerted willing boy. He offered me a couple of oranges the other day and would not take any pay ! I would like to hire him for my limited service ; it would be so much more convenient to have the attendance of some one on the premises Keoeived a she. w but pleasant letter from V.^re St. T., en- 71 — I [elp Itnts re- k'. lave land my ^ries ille- my l^une 7hen closing the initials in dried flowers for Mrs. P. and Mrs. Y. for which I had asked her. My unanswered letters are ac- cumulating fast; I wonder why it is I find it so hard to write a letter now-a-days. Is it the stupefying deadening influence of advancing years, I wonder I or is it the mental indolence for which I think all our family are more or less remarkable! If I can only bring myself to sit down with pen and ink before me and commence a letter, half the battle is over. But. after all I do not know that I can acuse myself of much laziness ; my days are pretty busy. I have also one pupil who comes to me three evenings in the week, and the rest of the time I am not good for much. Certainly, with better health, I might accomplish a great deal more Poor S , how often I think of him. 'Sunday, July, 21si. — Went to church ; I doubt if there were three dozen present— indeed, I have never yet seen the ^apel at all crowded. Read a couple of chapters in Goulburn's "Pursuit of Holiness ;" that and his " Personal Religion" are the two most interesting religious books 1 ever read ; they wake one up to a realizing sense of the all- important subject. Monday, July 22nd. — Atartling and eventful day. The first act of the revolutionary drama so long expected, has opened with a fai'ce apparently. As I left Mr. B.'s house about half past two this afternoon, I noticed an unusual stir and excitement in the streets ; the shop windows were closing rapidly and people standing at the doors and gates, ready for a rush inside, if necessary, while others moved on towards the Plaza Mayor, where I gathered from the words I caught here and there tht something extraordin- ary had taken place with reference to Balta and Gutierrez Desirous of learning the truth, I was about proceeding in that direction, when, on^reaching S.'s, (the shoemaker' s)he told me I had better come into his shop or go home at once, informing me that the President had just been arrested at the Palace by Gen. Gutierrez at the head of a large body of troops, and carried ott'prisoi. er to the San Francisco barracks I By this time carriages were flying through the streets tilled with people, hurrying to the railroad depot to seek safety in Cal.'ao. However, it being the hour for my lesson at Santa Maria's, I went there, thinking, too, that at "AntonelWs" I would be sure to hear all the particulars of this audacious proceeding, which seems to have surprised every body. The general opinion is, however, that it is all a concerted plan between Balta and Gutierrez (who is connected with him by marri- age), working against Pardo. Knowing that the decision of Congress would inevitably be in favor of the latter, Gu- tierrez immediately sent an armed force to disperse the assembly, despatching another meanwhile to arrest Pardo. Happily he had five minutes' warning and escaped their en- It J;'' I* iL'>' va, ■ V r^y f>-^ ,ti _...,p ^.^, --72— '/ \ '- dutches ; had they -Went to Balta's new house this morning and found everything in a state of confusion. Mrs. B. said the girls would not be ready, or rather that the state of the house would prevent them taking lessons for some time. Balta's vAlet told me this morning that he is not allowed to exchange a single word with him when be takes him his meals and his elothei to the trisos. and 4 W" 74 — thai I everything is thoroughly examined. Outierrez has made Perhondo Cases, a very oleter and unt)rinoipled lawyer, his right-hand man ; in fact under the title of Sedretario General, Gasos U the head-piece, Gutierrez contining ' himsellf to the management of the troops. Sef afin, the Papal Nunoio, and Beneven to, the Bolivian envoy, have relied ih' (he most friendly terms to Casos' cironlar to the Diplomatio Oorps, announcing the ohange of Government Gave' very few lessons to-day— School- books are atadisoount and newspapers at a premium. Aji A.' B. said to me one day in ChaTleston, during the late civil war, " the stir of aneifent history piles before that of modbrn".....JM.iis'of ag^ to-dhy; I lient the pinouphion 1 had made for her; blue satin, with hermono- grMn embroidereld in thle oentre^iand trimmed with sevefral rows of white silk' gimp and broad Duchess lace. As I wfote her^ I had tao s^arO' time for a more elaborate per formanoe. : Saturday, July 'STM.-^What a bloody tragedy I have to record i This date wilt be remembered in the Peruvian annals to the latest posterity. I doubt if any page of PiBarro's conquest will eoUpsei' it. Yesterday, within a space of about six hours, Balta and three of the brothers Gutierrea were sent to their long ancount^ But I must try and r^ate these' horrors in the order in which they ocour- r^<\. About half past eleven yesterday morning, I heard a gieat deal of shooting accompanied by the discharge of Sre-arms, and lookinig from my balcony, I tow numbers running at full spded from the neighborhood of the Callao R. R. Station. I went below to enquire the cause and the mayordoma informed me that Sylvestrd Gutierrez had just been killed at the d6pot. It seems he was about returnihg to Callao with money for his soldiers (he had plundered the banks of $150,000), when some one among the by-standers cried "Viva Pardo!" Gutierrez imme' diately discharged his revolver among them ; the shot was returned promptly ; a ball struck him in the temple and he expired instantly. Home of his* assailants then jumped on the engine which started immediately, ' and the rest rushed out/ so. that when a troop of cavalry came tearing down, (they passed my balcony a few minutes after), to avenge his death^ they found the depot empty. Bat a victim nmst be sacrificed, go Maroelino Gutierrez rnshed off to the San Francisco Barracks, and murdered the'priponer Balta in cold blood I The President was seat- ed on the sofiE^ his obttt off; reading a newspaper. Without a Wdrd of vraming^ Gutierrez and bis orew attacked him with revolveite and Jdaggeru, and another soul was sent into eternity imprepafted^ ' Meven wounds were found on his body and' headw ■ M. Gntierrev then went to join the troops in Ckllao^but there speedy retribtition aWaited him< Ju»t as he 'Was piointing the cannon for the wholesale' slaughter of the pcopfe, hd too was «hot dead. Mefanwhile the «z* —75,— citoment bofch here and in Callao was increasing every miaute. The people were roused at last~«that shot of Sylvestre Gutierrei had iired them. A determined re>' sistance was being evidently organized. Large group»( formed at the comet's of the principal streets shouting ^*ViTa Fardo 1'- and in the squares, crowds ansembled. Ndmbenv of mounted gentlemen galloped about firom post to post; giving orders, and soon the troops were attacked in every >^ direction. I saw a party of four dragoons gidlopitig for dear life down this street, while the people from the house* tops pelted them with bricks and stones. Gradually a feW of the soldiers joined the people, and the latter rushed en^ macse to attack the Palace where Gen. Gutierrea had in««< trenched bfmself. After two or three hours' fighting, he 1 abandoned it and took refuge in the Santa Oataliaa Bar-! ' racks, pursued by the citizens. It was now dark, and the Dictator's cause becoming momentarily more desperatei^^ He had to contend with dissension and strife among hit I troops in the darkness within, (for the people had cut off ^ the gas), and a raging foe without. In desperation he tried- to escape from the fort: but he wHs recognized almoctt-'' immediately, on issuing from it. Then his fate was sealed. His captors, wished to deliver him over to the proper • authdrities, but were unable to isave him from' the fiiry of '' the outraged citizens.. He fell riddled withi balls and soon- after the bodies of both brothers were swinging 'it the <> lamp-posts in the Flaza, after which they were raised t0i> the Cathedral towe^, one hanging frbm dach; below the clo(^ — a ghastly spectacle which thousands^ went 'to wit*' ' ness. The towers are in full view Arom my "fMleony,' ths' ; Cathedral being but three ^ Mocks distant, but it» dght'{<> had no attractions for ine. This morning a feir prie^jtfT(' ventured out to endeavor to rescue the bodies, 'but their» I exhortation mdt with littie favor from the people. - T(y-<^ inflict the utmost possible dishotaor, the molr resolved to'^'^ burn the bodies of all three brothers •— that of Maroeliamo «^ was therefore disintLiTed in CtAla^'frotHun€hrsixotker»ti»tidi*i dragged. up to teed the ilames in n-ont of the Cathedral.'-^ The brutalityof Syivestre and Maroeliano Gutierreshad beeii^^ . espectiall^ notorious, and their victims now took a fiendisJb^ >*^ revebge. One ne^ro whom Syivestre had cruelly flogged> tore *^ out hid heart and ate it roasted ! It^ was said too thAt'thid'^t^ shot which killed him>Was tired by the sOn of a brother officer whom he had flogged. But these barbarities ore not ' chargeable on the Peruvians. — With the whole city M''^ their mercy*, the police soattereWent to church ; Mrs. H. myself and three otbevs were the only ladies present. Perfect tran- quility p^eraiiiB throughout the city. A certain number of >eitiiemi .turn out every ni^ht tor aToiunteer patrol until the police can be reorganized. After morning service I o^ed to see Mrs. P— — to congratulate her on her hus- band's safe return. Her mother and sister T-" ■ ■ were tiie only persons with her, Mr. P having gone to the Senate, thi« being the day fixed by the law for the nomin- ation of the President. But Arom the day of Qutierrez' treason, there has been but one name in every mouth. . Whatever faint hopes Arenas or Ureta may have enter- tained, the 22nd of July annihilated them forever. Mrs. P-— — : was ver^ quiet and composed, notwithstanding the harrowing anxiety she must have sufiered during those te?rible days last week. She told me that Qutierrez' soldiers searched the house from top to bottom, and would allow no one to go in or out except the cook Dined With Mrs. D. and spent some pleasant hours with them The residences of the Qutierres brothers were utterly destroyed by the mob on Friday night, and Santa Maria's was nearly sharing the fame fate. He had fortunately esciiped at once after Qutierres's coup*de-main and the J^iWS^fS^S^l^' "^f^HTr**^ V. r^ .a* ^ II. — 77 — HOB family had left the house, so some cooler heads among the mob succeeded in drawing them oif. Thev contented themselves with blackening his name (which nraced the front of the Cathedral in connection with Balta's) uttering meanwhile fearfUl imprecations against him My celestial friend Akeen, has waited on me for a day cr two, but he won't take any pay, at least in the form of money. What a vara amt \ I must try and overcome his scruples. Monday, July 29th. — Mariano Ceballos, Vice President under Balta, and consequently First-Magistrate until Pardo's iixauguration, opened the Congress to-day with a most eloqutout discourse. I mean that he read a very eloquent speech^ written by somebody else^ — his wife perhaps, for she is decidedly the better half in mtellectual ability, they say. During the late fighting however, he figured about a good deed on horseback among the lead- ers of the people. They were very much amused at his turning out in the grandest of the Presidential coaches and four, during the three days of his brief authority ; but I fancy his ambitious wife prompted the display Capt. Kennedy, of H. B. M. Steamer "Reindeer" behaved nobly during the troubles last week ; he publl i a note oftering shelter on board his ship to all British subjects, and an escort to any lady from her residence to the vessel. Many even among the Peruvians availed themselves of his protection. Balta has been embalmed, and he lies in state in the beautiful new mansion on which he had lavished so much time and expense, and now enters a corpse. The bereaved family requested a guard from the Peruvian "Bomberos" and it was promptly furnished. They stand at the gate in their picturesque uniforms of scarlet and white, high jack- boots, and plumed hats. Wednudc^, July 307 pectedly a little leisure, I returned home about two o'clock p.m.with the intention of lunching before proceeding to my next pupil, when I found, to my dismay, that my door had' * been forced open with an iron bar which lay beside it ! I rushed in frantically and stood aghast at the spectacle. My trunk had been broken open and rifled of every piece ' of jewellery it contained, three gold bracelets, and a most valuable set of rubies and opals among the number. A gold locket, a fruit knife on the table, a fan and a variety of articles of smaller. value, were swept off at the same time. I had left a packet of about one hundrodsoles quite close to the jewellery, and I never doubted that they had gone too, I sat down, overwhelmed with despair at this fresh calamity. Then I ran to the Cholo Santos, who was cleaning G's room adjoining, but he could give me no information except that he had found the door broken open on his arrival about half an hour previously, and had immediately gone to notify G and the police. About fifteen minutes after, two Police Inspectors arrived ac- companied by two celadores. I told my story and to my surprise their suspicions immediately fell on Santos, whom they took into cfistody, as well a^ a mulatto borj- named . Augostiii) who caoue to enqnire for Santos wUle tbia ih* — 79 — vosiiftation was going on. G'l room was robbed a few moiiths ago while under the charge of Augustin's younger brother, who proved to be a notorious thief, and most people seem to think triat I have been the victim of a concerted plan between the trio. Rousing myself this afternoon I made a closer inspection of the confused heap in the rifled trunk, and to my great joy found that the little packet of money had escaped the notice of the thief, who had evidently left in a hurry, This discovery lightened my heart considerably, for though the jewellery and other articles are worth more than double the amount I can bear their loss far better than that of my hard-earned cash. Mrs. D— ^ — and Mrs. K called to condole with me this afternoon, and found the mercury rising again. As soon as M heard of the robbery, she most thought- fully sent me back the, ten soles I lent her the other day. Sunday. August Wth. — On my way to Church this morn- ing, I called at the President's private residence (he only uses the Palace for official business) — but the family had already gone to the Misa de Gracias at the San Augustin Church. I therefore left my card with a few lines scribbled on it, asking Mr. Pardo's aid in tracing the thief. I heard that the musical service at this Misa de Gracias was to be very beautiful. It is a thank ofiering from Mrs. Pardo for her husband's preservation, and will cost two thousand dollar?, it is said Marcelmo Gutierrez, the fourth and only surviving bro-' ther, was captured on Saturday, disguised as a Chinaman on board steamer about sailing for Europe. On dit that Mr. Pardo would have preferred his escape; nevertheless his evidence will be valuable in the investigation of the dark deeds of the late administration. It seems to be clearly proved that Balta had really entered into some plot with the Gutierre* brothers for a coup d'etat, but having changed his mind they determined to take him prisoner, and pby the game alone. Thus Sylvestre Gutierrez' death was avenged by his brother Marceliano on Balta as a consequence of his defection. I doubt if the history of Peru, even under the iron rule of the blood- thirsty Pizarro records a darker tragedy than that enaoiked in Lima on the 26th July, 1872 Francisco Balta, brother of the murdered President, has separated from his wife, a sister of the Gutierrez bandits. He will allow her a handsome maintenance, but refuses to see her again. A hard sentence, if her name be her only crime ; but some say that her character and temper are worthy of her lineage. Tuesday, August lZth,-^l Was quite sure that Mr. Pardo would comply with my request without loss of time. An oifioer presented himself early this morning, and said that he had called yesterday in my absence. I related the oiroum- stan'ces of the robbery and gave him a list and description of th6 stolen artiolesi He departed, promising his uUnost- — 80 — ■ealanddlligenoa Inthttpvoseoutionof the •e".rjh, but I have little hope of any satisfaotory result Dined at Mr. D 's. At my request, Mr. K—— kindly lent me a small four-barreled revolver, shewing me at the same time how to load and fire it. Thuradcty, August I5th. — I availed myself of this holiday to visit the Palace of the Exposition and grounds, and was well repaid for the fatigue. Incomplete as the various departments mu t necessarily be at this early stage, enough has been done to interest the visitor for many hours, and should the designs of the originator. Dr. Fuentes, be fully carried out, the Exhibition Palace of Lima will soon stand a comparison with those of Europe. I think the large picture in the Hall — an oil painting of the death of Atahualpa — interested me most ; I could have gazed at it for hours. I was a most speaking picture and beautifully executed. The noble features of the murdered Inoa, the aaguish of his weering attendants, and the stern faces of the haughtySpanish warriors were all faithfully portrayed. The artist, a young Peruvian named Montero, died in 1868 of the yellov" fever. Had he lived he would have attained a world-wide celebrity. Atahualpa's descendants still wear mourninir for him J. P., wno was very kind in his offers of service on the day of the robbery, called again this evening and told me that his sister M had called yesterday in my absence. She is very busy preparing for the eventful 25th. Friday, August 16M. — When I arrived at Mrs. S. M's this morning, she was examining a most superb diamond set with which a German Jew was trjring to tempt her. The price asked was thirty thousand soles, and she declined the purchase M—-— came over this evening, and we had a long chat, chiefly on her approaching wedding. She is "o'er young to marry yet," aad I rrish the marriage could be postponed until she and her Hano^ have had better opportunities of becoming acquainted with each other's characters and tastes. But indeed no two perscns can ever be said to be thoroughly acquainted with each other until they have lived under the same roof, I think, or have mad^ a sea- voyage in company. I know of no better test of character than the latter, for sooner or later, 1 masks drop off at sea, and the real man or woman stands revealed. Two nnsyupathetic minds, however, may pass a life4ime under the same roof, and remain " strangers yet." As the poet writes, ■ % " Each in hit bidden sphere of Joy br woe, '"^ Our hsrmit spiritB dwell and range apart ; ''"-' Onreyet see all around In gloom or-glow** Hue! of their own, freih borrowed from the heart** Saiarday, August JJ