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FEW PLAIN DIRECTIONS

FOR PERSONS
INTENDING TO PROCEED AS SETTLERS

1 TO

HIS MATESTY'S PROVINCE

UPPER CANADA,

IN NORTH AMERICA.

Pointing out the best Port to embark at for Quebec. — Provisions and
other Tilings necessary to be provided for the Voyage. — ^The best
and cheapest Method of Travelling from Quebec to Montreal, and
thence to Kingston aiid York, a Distance of 600 Miles, whereby
Emigrants may avoid heav^ Expenses.— The Metliod of obtain-
ing Land in the most eligible Districts. — What Property various
Descriptions of Emigrants should possess on their Arrival in Ame-
rica. — Advice to Farmers, Tradesmen, Mechanics, &c. — ^A De-
scription of that fine and interesting Province : its Productions,
&c. &c. — Some cursory Remarks on the Manners and Customs of
the Inhabitants.

CONTAINIITG ALSO
A SHORT SKETCH OR JOURNAL OF TTJE

AUTHOR'S VOYAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC,
In June, 1819.

BY AN ENGLISH FARMER"

SETTLED IN UPPER CANADA,

a ^ap.

LONDON: ~ -

PRINTED FOR BALDWIN, CRADOCK, AND JOY,
47, PATERNOSTER-ROW.

1820.

n I a n *t,.:. -'int^;fui:!i m i m< .

i I-

fif

C. Baldwin. Pn«»<«.

.tvsMsji.'iiJi.

PREFACE,

In offering this little volume to the Public,
it is the Author*s intention to afford those
persons who are desirous of emigrating to our
North American Colonies, particularly the
province of Upper Canada, such information
as will enable them to avoid delays and ex-
pense, and to establish themselves within a
reasonable time after their arrival. That such
information is very much wanted, the condition
of numbers of emigrants who kit England
with property sufficient for every exigency,
will evince. Many have expended large sums
of money in search of farms and grantable
land^, and have found themselves^ at the ex-
piration of two or three years, in more hope*
less circumstances, and with worse prospects,
than before their departure from their native
country.

That these fine and interesting colonies
present fair advantages to industrious emi-
grants of every denomination and profession,
is a fact of which the Author is fully con-
vinced ; and as it is his ardent and heartfelt

PllErACE.

wish to be serviceable to his fellow-countrv-
men, neither intending to mislead them by
false representations, or to excite hopes and
expectations which his conscience tells him
can never be realized, he thought he should
be fulfilling a duty which he owed to such
persons (however inadequate his abilities
might be to the task), in endeavouring to
smooth the difficulties and remove the obsta-
cles which might interrupt their welfare and
success. , ,

This little volume has no beauty of style,
no elegance of language, to recommend it ; it
contains only an unembellished narration of
facts, important to such persons as may re-
quire " Plain Directions^ It has been the
Author^s principal aim to render it useful; and
he offers it to the public with the hope that
they will excuse its defects, since he has used
his best endeavours to serve them.

The condescension of a gentleman in an
official situation at York, Upper Canada, has
enabled me to give a Map or Plan of the
province of Upper Canada, with its subdivi-
sions into townships, &c. &c. , vf

Upper Canada^
January "2,0, 1820.

CONTENTS.

' 1

'.}. .

CHAPTER I.

Upper Canada the best Country for British Emi-
grants to settle in— Numbers of the Inhabitants
of the United States of America emigrate to
that Province, and take the Oath of Allegiance
to the British Government — Mr. Grece's Opi-
nions—Canada preferable to New South Wales
and Cape of Good Hope for Emigrants— Hoir
Emigrants must proceed to Liverpool, or the
Port at which they embark — A List of Stores,
&c. &c. necessary to be provided for the Voy-
age — ClotheSi &c. — Advice to Persons when
on Ship-board — Cooking— Deportment, &c. &c.

Page

. )

i.u

CHAPTER n.

Passage from Liverpool to Quebec — Newfound- ;
land — A nticosti— Description of the Country
on each Side of the River St. Lawrence 16

CHAPTER m. r

Directions for travelling from Quebec to Kings-
ston and Hamilton— Directions for travelling I

,;.,j

OONTIWTS.

from Kingston to York, the Capital of the
Upper Province, 580 Miles West of Quebec
—How and to ^l^ovn Emigrants must apply
for Grants of Land or the purchase of Farms
— Advertisements respecting the granting 6f
Lands, copied from the Upper Canada Gazette
of January 6, 1 820. ....,.., • . • •

pig«

CHAPTER lY. " ^

The But of the Upper Province which is best "

to settle in«— Description of the Neighbouvhood ^

of Amherst, or the Courthouse, in the Town* ^

ship of Hamilton, District of Newoastlev ^

County of Northumberland — Rice Lake, its '

fine Situation for Settlers, &c. — Expense of "^
clcMnring Land — Expense of building Houses
and Bams — Maple Sugar — Cattle — Hogs —

Hoifet— Poultry, &c. .,. S9

ir'*:";Ct:. ,],,;;;■: ^;(»

^t;;:.-^fv^^»»^^' "CHAPTER V.

Animal and Yagetable Productions of Upper Ca-
nada—Deer — Beaver— Otter — Musk-Rat—
Hare — Bear — Wolf — Fox — Racoon — Porcu-
pine — Martin — Squirrel - - Serpents— Birds-
Partridge — Pigeons — Wild Ducks — Geese-
Humming Bird, &c.^Fi8h; Salmon — Trout—
Maskalungi, &c. — Trees, Shrubs and Plants
—Apples — Peaches — Plums — Cherries— Hic-
kory Nuts— Butter Nuts— Walnuts, &c. &c.. .

,^i

y^f-

CONTENTS.

•«
VII*

CHAPTER VI.

General Appearance and Climate of Upper Ca*
nada — Scenery — Obsenrations on the Inhabit-
ants— 'Indians — General Remarks; and Advioe
to Emigrants— Conclusion , «• 93

>» i

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DIRECTIONS

FOR PERSONS INTENDING TO SETTLE IN

UPPER CANADA.

CHAPTER I.

upper Canada the best Country for British Emigrants
to settle in — Numbers of the Inhabitants of the
United States of America emigrate to that Province,
and take the Oath of Allegiance to the British Go-
vernment — Mr. Grace's Opinion — Canada preferable
to New South Wales and Cape of Good Hope fpr
Emigrants — How Emigrants must proceed to Liver-
pool, or the Port at which they embark— A List of
Stores, &c. &c. necessary to be provided for the
Voyage — Clothes — Advice to Persons when on Ship-
board — Cooking, Deportment, &c. &c.

h ROM the commencement of the French
revolution to the year 1815, the continent of
Europe was distracted by sanguinary and ex«
pensive wars. • The resources of great nations

^- t

■ •■

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; ;

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t '[

were exhausted ; and the distress which en-
sued after the termination of hostilities com-
pelled multitudes of people to seek an asylum
in the New World. The great mass of emi-
gration was directed principally to the United
States, under the mistaken idea that the ter-
ritory of the republic offered more advantages,
as well as more freedom, to settlers than the
British colonies. Those colonies too, before
the late lamentable war between Great Britain
and the States, were but little known, except
to merchants and seamen, who, from the
nature of their pursuits, could have no op-
portunity of acquiring such a knowledge of
the interior of the country, or the more remote
parts of it, as would enable them to give a
just representation of it. The advantages
which these colonies, particularly Upper Ca-
nada, offer to emigrants are now partly de-
veloped. The Americans have been aware of
them for some time, and have profited by their
knowledge. Whilst English subjects, to whose
dispositions a repubUcan government and re-
publican manners will always be uncongenial
and repugnant, were settling on the banks of
the Ohio and in the Elysian Prairies of the

IVIissouri — -their enterprise and their money
both nearly exhausted before they arrived
there — thousands of the citizens of the United
States, attracted by the salubrity of the
climate, and the fertility of the soil of Upper
Canada, were flocking into it, and taking with-
out hesitation the oath of allegiance to the
British government, in order to reap the be-
nefit of settling there. This is a well known
fact ; and if it were duly impressed on the
minds of persons desirous of emigrating to
America, they would certainly prefer a coun-
try, where they could enjoy all the blessings
and the privileges of our excellent constitu-
tion, to one, where they must live under a
form of government with which they are
unacquainted, and among a people who would
be very far from answering the expectations
they had formed of them. I have no hesitation
in saying that the British colonies, particu-
l^ly the province of Upper Canada, are more
suitable for jBriVi^/K emigrants, whether agricul-
turists or mechanics, than the United States,
and that they would there have better prospects
of success, as well as the enjoyment of a
greater degree of happiness and contentment.

, !

I t

Mr. Charles F. Grece has fully demonstrated
this fact in his valuable work entitled, " Facts
and Observations respecting Canada and the
United States of America. London, printed
for J. Harding, St. James's-street, 1819." To
that gentleman's publication, I beg to refer
persons intending to proceed to the Canadas
for a great deal of very useful and important
information.

To forsake our native government and laws,
and to add to the strength and resources of a
rival nation, must, considered in a moral point
of view, be culpable ; and on this subject Mr.
Grece makes the following very just observa-
tion : — " I much question whether any sub-
" ject of Great Britain can, upon a general
" principle of reasoning, justify his conduct in
" deliberately adding to the strength and re-
" sources of a rival nation, whilst there are
** e.vtcnswe, rich, and fertile territories, be-
" longing to his own country, inviting the
" hand of cultivation, and claiming the exer-
*' tions of all those who may be induced to quit
" the immediate soil that gave them birth, to
«« seek their fortunes in distant regions."

Having in the spring of the year 1819 de-

J f

tei mined upon emigrating to one of the
British colonies, I gave the preference to
Upper Canada, as well from the good account
which I had received of that province from
some of my friends who had visited it, as
from the favourable representation which Mr.
Hugh Gray, Mr, Heriot, and Mr. Lambert,
have given of it in their travels.

Although New South Wales possesses a
fine climate and a fertile soil, yet it is at too
great a distance from the mother country to
make it a desirable residence for emigrants.

The Cape of Good Hope has alm6st the
same natural advantages as New Holland,
but its plains and woods are infested with
lions and other ravenous beasts of prey ; and
the CafFres and Boshmen have lately disturbed
the settlers.

Private individuals intending to emigrate
to the Canadas, may proceed directly to the
port at which they mean to embark, without
having any occasion to apply to the secretary
of state for the colonies, as all the satisfaction
or information they would receive from Lord
Bathurst would be contained in a printed or
official letter, acquainting them that a grant

v.i

I-

i'l

1 1

of twenty-five acres of land would be given
to them by the governor on their arrival in
Canada, without any assistance or encourage-
ment except the actual grant itself.

I arrived at Liverpool about the middle of
June, 1819. This is undoubtedly the best
port to embark from, as vessels may there be
met with at any time during the spring and
summer months ; and the expense of travel-
ling to that town, even from places at a con-
siderable distance, is not great. A circuitous,
and often hazardous, passage by sea from the
northern or eastern ports of England to the
Chops of the Channel is likewise thereby
avoided. In the winter, and very early in the
spring, there are also vessels constantly going
to New York ; from whence there are steam-
boats to Albany, and a stage to Montreal, or to
Sackett's harbour opposite Kingston, by Utica.
This would be the best route for persons
without families, or who had but little bag-
gage, and who were desirous of leaving Eng-
land in February or March. A considerable
duty or per centage (as much, I believe, as
thirty per cent.) on the value of their baggage,
is paid at New York by persons not intend-

ing to settle in the United States, but who
were only passing through them in order to
proceed to the Britisi^ colonies. Persons with
families, and a considerable quantity of bag-
gage, had therefore better embark for Quebec;
and the commencement of April would be
soon enough to leave Liverpool, as vessels
cannot proceed up the river St. Lawrence to
Quebec before the middle of May, on account
of the ice.

I found a large ship lying in the Queen's
Dock at Liverpool, which was nearly ready to
proceed to Quebec, and engaged my passage in
the steerage for 51, 10s, having to find myself
provisions, a bed, cooking utensils, and every
other article, except water and the use of
the ship's fire. I provided the following
stores for the passage, being a sufficient stock
for two months ; since few vessels arrive at
Quebec from Liverpool in less time than eight,
nine, or ten weeks, during the summer months.
Going to a ship chandler's near the Queen's
Dock, with a list ready made out of what
would be necessary, I bought as follows :
viz.

{ ■>

: J

£ s. d,

1 lb. of tea 8

7 lb. of sugar, at lOd, per lb. . . 5 10

2-1. lb. of coffee, ground, at 2^. . . 5
A quarter of a barrel of salt-beef,

or about 55 pounds 16 6

56 lb. common biscuit ........ 10 9

2 bushels potatoes, at 2s, 4^.. .048

Barrel for packing ditto 2

A liquor case with 12 bottles. ... 10 6

2 gallons rum, at l6s • • 112

2^ dozen porter, at 12*. 6fif 1 11 3

Hamper for ditto and packing. .020

Tea-kettle 3 9

Tin water-can 2 6

Tin tea-pot 8 6

A tin coffee-pot 1 2

Tin kettle for cooking in 4 6

2 half-pint earthen mugs 4

2 plates 4

1 deep dish 1

1 table spoon and 1 tea- spoon. ... 06

1 knife and fork 1 4

1 tin wash-hand-bason 2 6

1 bottle of mustard 1 6

Mustard-pot 8

Carried over. ... 712 1

£ s. d.

Brought forward.... 7 12 1

A candlestick 1 6

3 lb. of candles 3

Potatoe-net 6

Tin tea-caddy 1 6

60 eggs and packing 4 3

14 lb. of split-pease 3 6

2 ounces of ground-pepper .... 6

Pepper-box 6

6 bottles of Cape Madeira .... 018

Half a cheese 4 3

2 wine glasses and 2 tumblers . . 2 10

A bag for bread 104^

Hamper for the wine 1 2

A large second-hand chest to
pack the above loose articles

in, with lock. Oil

A ship's bed and bolster 13 6

2blankets 15

A coverlet. 7 6

12 1 d^
Paid to the captain of the ship

for passage 5 10

Total expense to Quebec. 17 11 5^

B 5

I '

1^:

There may, perhaps, be several superfluities
in this list of what I provided for myself
alonr; it may, however, convey some idea
of what others will require. For a number
of persons, a stock must be provided accord-
ingly, and agreeably to the nature of their
appetites. Persons bringing beds, cooking
utensils, bacon, hams, corned or hung beef,
dried tongues and preserved fruits, from home
with them, will lessen their expenses. Should
there be women or children, it would be well
to furnish them with the best white biscuit,
or " good loaf-bread cut into slices and baked
" a second time. If this be prepared pre-
viously to leaving England it will keep good
to the end of the voyage; and by soaking it
** in water or tea, it will be found excellent
" nourishment." (Dr. Franklin's Directions.)
Cider, figs, raisins, almonds, portable soup,
potted-beef; cakes and preserved fruit, such
as damsons, plums, gooseberries, currants,
dried apples, &c. &c.

As emigrants may have occasion to con-
tinue a week or ten days at Liverpool, it
would be well for them to hire lodgings at any
respectable housekeeper's — except the inns —

(and lodgings are always to be procured) and
board themselves; they will, by so doing,
avoid expense, and live more agreeably than
at a tavern, besides being able to equip them-
selves with greater privacy and with less mo-
lestation.

Coarse warm clothing with flannel shirts,
thick worsted or yam stockings, and strong
shoes or half-boots nailed, are most suitable
for the climate of Canada in winter ; and duck
slops, duck trowsers, and calico or homespun
linen shirts, for summer wear. Fur caps r:ay
also be brought out, as they are expensive
here. Any old clothes will serve during the
passage out, and in travelling through the
country. Beds may be taken out (without
bedsteads). Curtains and curtain-rings, cords,
blankets, sheets, warm rugs or coverlets, and
several spare bed-licks. All these latter arti-
cles are extremely dear in Canada. Scarcely
any thing else need be provided, as all articles
of hardware, axes suitable for the country,
plough-irons, harrow-teeth, Dutch and tin
ovens, tea-kettles, kettles for cooking meat
in, &;c. kc. &c., may be purchased at Mon-
treal at nearly the same prices as in England.

i^i

1 tf

Every thing should be well packed in strong
boxes, cases, or trunks, the more portable
they are the better, each not exceeding three
feet in length, eighteen inches in breadth, and
one foot in depth, made water-tight if possi-
ble, or in barrels about the Aze of flour bar-
rels, also water-tight; and all to be well lashed
up or corded. Beds, bedding, curtains, &c.
&c., may be sewed up in a wool-sack or very
coarse harden, with a strong cord round them ;
this is the most convenient and best method
of taking out beds. China or other earthen-
ware, may be packed in tow or the refuse of
flax.

All things being in readiness, p.nd the ves^
sel on the point of sailing, the emigrant will
have to attend at the custom-house with his
baggage for examination; with respect to
which business, the captain of the ship he
goes out in will give him the necessary di-
rections how to proceed, and assist him
through it. He will also have to take an
affidavit at the custom-house. He may take
his sea-stores of provisions, &c., on board his
vessel at any time, placing them under the
charge of the mate; as they are never ex*

amined by the custom-house officers. When
his baggage is to be examined, he may hire a
cart and take it to the custom-house, accom-
panied by the captain of the vessel. After
having finished his business there, he can
have it conveyed in the same cart to the dock
in which the ship lies, and from thence imme-
diately taken on board ; one journey and one
expense will thereby answer both purposes.

T^ ere are several persons at Liverpool
professing to assist emigrants in transacting
their aflairs there. Such may, perhaps, be
honest men : I would not, however, advise
emigrants to employ them ; since by fol-
lowing the above directions, and those of the
captain of the vessel in which they are going
out, they cannot err, and by being their own
agents will avoid a considerable expense. All
spare money must be brought out in guineas
or Spanish dollars, which may be purchased
for good bills at any bullion office in Liver-
pool. Dollars are bought for about 4;$, 4id, or
4^. 6d. each.

On the 27th of June, 1819, I sailed from
Liverpool in a ship of 450 tons ; having in
about half a cargo, consisting of salt, iror; and

:,. i

ft '

bricks. The steerage was formerly the cabin ;
and being fitted up as cabins usually are, it
was not deficient in any convenience. A sort
of poop or cuddy was built, as a cabin for the
captain and chief mate.

Persons who are strangers to the sea will
find it inconvenient to cook for themselves. It
is very probable that the ship's cook may be
fond of grog ; and he would perform that ne-
cessary business for a wine-glass full of rum
every night, and double allowances on Satur-
day nights ; if, however, he should possess
such a failing as not to be fond of grog, then
one of the seamen might be procured. A gal-
lon or two of rum, thus bestowed, would re-
lieve the passenger from a deal of trouble and
difficulty. It will be necessary to keep the li-
quor in a very secure place, as the seamen will
not lose any opportunity of stealing it, or
mixing it with water. I give this caution
from experience, as will be seen in the
journal.

Passengers should pay attention to cleanli-
ness. Washing the hands and face in cold
water eveiy nloming, (if fresh water is not
allowed, use salt water with c'»tmeal)and keep-

«'

ing as much as possible on deck in the air,
even in blowing weather, will contribute very
much to preserve health, and prevent or re-
lieve sea-sickness. A little opening medicine,
as epsom salts or an electuary, may be pro-
vided, and a dose taken occasionally. Passen-
gers may also take out a few books for amuse-
ment, and a pack of cards. It will be neces-
sary to have their births or cabins well swept
twice a day, and washed once or twice a week.
Early rising, and a sober, peaceable, and or-
derly deportment, I should also particularly
recommend ; and let persons be civil to the
seamen, but not familiar with them.

The following sketch or journal of my voy-
age may not be unacceptable, as it will afford
emigrants an authentic picture of what they
themselves will have to undergo in crossing
the Atlantic. Although a farmer, I was not
inattentive to what passed on the watery ele-
ment, the source of our national prosperity
and glory, and the theatre of some of the
noblest achievements of my countrymen.

fil- .!

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CHAPTER II.

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Passage from Liverpool to Quebec — Newfoundland —
Anticosti — Description of the Country on each side
of the River St. Lawrence.

On Sunday, June 27th,

after day-

soon

light, we weighed and proceeded to sea ; the
wind westerly.

, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday,
Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday to
Tuesday July 6th, we had contrary winds
(being from S.W. to N. W. but mostly W.
and W. N. W.) with thick hazy weather at
times, blowing fresh with a deal of sea ; yet
in that time we got clear of the Irish Chan-
nel. Attacked by sea-sickness, which I soon
got over by keeping on deck in the air.

Tuesday, July 6th. The weather, which
hitherto has been cold, is now warm and
pleasant, and we have light breezes from
the westward. Lat. at noon 50*^ 20' N-
long, about 14^ 30' W. Two sail in sight.

Thursday, 8th. Fresh breezes and hazy^

with a heavy sea. Wind W. and W.N.W.
A ship and brig passed us under all sail, steer-
ing E.N. E.

Friday, 9th. Moderate and fine. Wind
N.W. by W. A long swell from the N.N.W.
Lat." at noon 48° 18' N. long. 15° 30' W.
being 400 miles nearly due west of Ushant.

Saturday, 10th. Moderate breezes N.N.W.
and fine weather. At 6, P.M. the wind
.hifled to N.N.E. in our favour: hauled up
W. by N. At 10 set studding sails. We
have had a beating wind for fourteen days ;
having never had an hour's slant of wind be-
fore to-day, nor a studding sail set.

Sunday, 11th. Moderate and fine. Set all
the studding sails on the starboard side. Wind
N.E. Course W.N.W. P.M. light winds
and foggy.

Monday, 12. The wind again westerly. At
6, P.M. the wind S. W. lightning in the
N.N.E. At 10 fresh breezes and fine wea-
ther, saw gulls.

Tuesday, 13th. At 1 taken aback with the
wind from the N.N.E. being the quarter
where it lightned. At noon fresh breezes
N. by E. and fine weather. Lat. observed,

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W-.

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46° 15' N. long. 25° 30' W. A'ship passed
us steering S.S.E. The Azores at noon about
300 miles due south : gulls seen.

Wednesday, 14th. Moderate breezes from
the northward, and pleasant weather. Course
W.N.W. P.M. wind scant. At 8 wind again
favourable.

Thursday, 15th. Light breezes and fine.
Lat. observed 45° 37' N. long. 30° 00' W.

Saturday, 17th. Light winds, nearly calm^
and fine pleasant weather. P. M. At 6 spoke
an American ship from Liverpool bound to
New York.

Sunday, 18th. Moderate breezes from the
N.W. and fine weather. Lat. observed, at
noon 44° 44' N. At 6, P.M. a ship, having
the appearance of a West*Indiaman, passed
us under all sail, steering E. by S.

Monday, 19th. Strong breezes and hazy,
with a heavy swell; wind N.W. P.M. at 10,
more moderate with less wind ; wind N.
by W.

Wednesday, 21st. Fresh breezes at S.W.
bv W. several vessels in sight. P.M. at 6
> ;sh gales : spoke the Ida of London (West
liiuiaman), homeward bound. Several vessels

( (

passed
1 about

s from
Course
d again

fine.
W.

y calm,
) spoke
und to

om the

ved, at

having

passed

1 hazy,
. at 10,

nd N.

It S.W,
I. at 6

(West
vessels

passed us, steering to the eastward. Fresh gales
with a very heavy head sea ; close reefed the
topsails and handed the mainsail. At 9 taken
aback in a squall with the wind from the
N.N.W. braced round and trimmed on the
starboard tack : heavy rain. At midnight
moderate breezes N. N.W. with heavy rain.

Thursday, 2!2d. At noon fresh breezes
N.N.W. and clear. Lat. observed, 44° 35'
N. At 7, P.M. saw a brig to windward,
close hauled : moderate and fine weather, with
a swell from the N.W.

Friday, 213d. A.M. calm and pleasant
weather. Lat. observed, 43° 47' N. At 6,
P.M. cloudy, with light and variable winds.
A ship passed us steering to the eastward.
Lightning N. N.E. Saw flying fish and gulf-
weed.

Saturday, 24th. At 3 a breeze from the
N.E. made all sail; set studding sails on the
starboard side. At noon moderate and plea-
sant weather ; wind N.E. by E. course N.W.
by W. Saw flying fish, bonitoes, gulls, and a
deal of gulf.weed. Lat. 44° 00' N. long. 41°
30' W.

Sunday, 25th. At. 4, A.M. calm ; at 8 a

\ i ^

breeze from the westward. Lat. observed,
44° 04' N. long. 42° 00' W. P.M. fresh
breezes with a swell from the westward : a
gi'eat deal of gulf-weed seen.

Monday, 26th. Wind W. and W. by S,
course N.N.W. and N.W. by W. P.M. at
8 fresh breezes and squally, with a swell from
the N.W. In top-gallant sails. Lightning
N.E. by N.

, Tuesday, 27th. Light and variable winds,
and close hazy weather with rain. At 10,
A.M. the wind S.W. by S. P.M. at 4, the
wind N.W. At 7, a large whale playing for
some time to windward of the ship. At sun-
set, a violent squall from the N.N.E. with heavy
rain : clewed up and handed all the sails. After-
wards it blew a strong gale from the N.N.E.
all night with a very heavy sea : ship lying-
to under the close-reefed main-topsail, and
labouring much : down top-gallant yards and
struck the masts. '

Wednesday, 28th. More moderate weather;
a heavy swell still continues; made sail. Wind
N.N.E. course N.W. by W. Saw a brig to
windward. At 8, P.M. wind N.W.

Thursday, 29th, Moderate and fine. Wind

! i

W. by N. course N. by W. at noon passed
a French schooner. Lat. observed, 43^

4rN.

Friday, 30th. Moderate and fine weather.
At 3, A.M. a breeze from the W.S.W. a
brig in company. P.M. at 5, 30, squally with
rain. At 6, it cleared up : a steady breeze
S.W. by W. Course N.W. by W. Long, at
noon, 44° 45' W.

Saturday, 31st. Moderate breezes and fine
weather, with a flying fog. Wind S.W. by
W. Course N.W. byW. going five knots. Lat.
observed, 45° 08' N. long. 47° 00 W. At
6, P.M. a brig passed us.

Sunday, August 1st. Moderate breezes
W.S.W. with a thick fog. Course N.W. going
three knots : saw several grampuses. At 8,
tried for soundings, and found no bottom, with
110 fathoms of line. Lat. at noon, by account,
45° 5T N. At 8, P.M. hove-to and sounded
in sixty-nine fathoms ; bottom, shells and
small pebbles. Weather still foggy. Long.
49° 30' W. Fogs are very prevalent on the
banks of Newfoundland at all seasons of the
year. Seamen term them the " Newfoundland
Boatswain," from their tightening the rigging

K'. 1

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of a ship very much, (as moisture and cold
contract, and heat on the contrary stretches
and expands.)

Monday, 2d. Moderate breezes at west
with a thick fog. At 8, tacked to the south-
ward. At noon, sounded in thirty-four fa-
thoms ; shells. Saw a brig to leeward. Ship
about eighty miles east of Cape Race, New-
foundland.

Tuesday 3d. Foggy weather, with a mo-
derate breeze W. by S. Course N.W. by N.
At 8, sounded in thirty fathoms. At 5, P.M.
spoke the La Hortence of Dieppe, French
fishing-lugger. At 10, the wind S.W. by W.
course N.W. going 6^ knots. Weather more
clear. Passed several brigs and other vessels
at anchor, fishing.

Wednesday, 4th. At 8, calm and hazy.
Caught two halibuts, weighing about fifty
and forty pounds, and a cod-fish of thirty
pounds weight. Baited first with rind of
pork and a piece of red cloth; afterwards
with the roe or breeches of the fish, a bait
which will be taken greedily. The Great
Bank of Newfoundland is 540 miles in length
from north to south, and from 150 to 200

miles in width from east to west. A great
many vessels are employed annually in the
fishery. The fishermen take out the entrails
and cut off the heads of the fish when first
caught ; rub them over with salt, and pack
them in the vessel's hold : when she is full
they go to Newfoundland, and there salt and
dry the fish for exportation. The French
have two small islands on the south coast of
Newfoundland, viz. St. Pierre and Miquelon,
where they dry their fish, &c. At 9j a breeze
from the westward ; saw several fishing ves-
sels. At 4, P.M. a large ship in sight. At
10, found the latitude by an altitude of the
north polar star, to be 45° 20' N. Moderate
and fine weather.

Thursday, 5th. Fresh breezes, and squally
with a heavy swell. P.M. at 9, 30, took
the altitude of the polar star, and found the
latitude to be, by Mr. Mitcham's (47, White-
chapel, London) tables, and the American
tables by Mr. Elford, 44° 44' N.

Friday, 6th. Fresh breezes at W. course
N.N.W. Latitude, by a good observation,
45° 22f N. and ascertained thereby, that the
method of finding the latitude by the altitude

:-. J

!■ 1

of the polar star (and working by Mr. Mit-
cham*s and Mr. Elford*s methods) is correct.
P.M. strong breezes from the west with a
high sea. A transport passed us (No. 4 or 7.)
under all sail, steering east : two brigs also
passed us. Saw many grampuses.

Saturday, 7th. Strong breezes at west, and
clear. P. M. at 8, the wind S.W. by W.
course N.W. going 6-J- knots.

Sunday, 8th. Fresh gales at west, and thick
weather with a very high sea. Ship lying up
N.N.W. under courses and double-reefed top-
sails. Saw several stormy peterels. Found
my liquor-case broken open, and about five
quarts of rum deficient : half of the liquor
having been taken out of the case bottles, and
the bottles then filled up again with water.

Monday, 9th. Light breezes from the south-
ward and fine weather. At 8, saw the island
of St. Pierre, on the south coast of New-
foundland, bearing north by compass, distant
16 or 18 miles. Made all sail ; course N.W.
Set studding sails. Saw several grampuses.
A schooner in sight N.N.W. At noon the
island of Miquelon (fifteen miles from New-
foundland, half way between Cape Race and

i
i .1

Cape Raye, on the south coast of it) in
sight to the northward, distant twenty-two or
twenty-four miles. We have this day been
forty days out of sight of land.

Tuesday, 10th. At 8, fresh gales and
squally with rain at times, and a high, rough
sea ; the sliip under close-reefed topsails and
foresail. At 8, P.M. more moderate weather.
At 10, lightning in the E.S.E.

Wednesday 11th. At 8, light breezes
from the E.S.E. and fine pleasant weather;
water very smooth : made all sail, set stud-
ding sails on the starboard side. A brig to
windward, standing to the northward. Saw
Cape Raye, distant twenty or twenty-two-
miles. Many gannets (called by seamen faheV'
men, from their preying upon mackarel) skim-
ming over the sea. They fly in regular lines
abreast close to the water's edge, and being all
white, except the extremities of their wings,
have a curious and picturesque appearance.
We had lines out for mackarel, but caught
none. Saw several snipes, resembling those
common in England. Cape Raye is high land
and tabled. Off the point is a small island,
or rock, A few miles to the S.E. of the

,i'^

if :

Cape, is a white farm-house, and a small quan-
tity of cultivated ground abi e it ; the farmer
is the oniy inhabitant there: his house is
about half way up the declivity of the hill (or
highland), and faces the south. The country
has a barren and inhospitable appearance, and
is covered with stunted trees. Passed several
vessels homeward bound.

Thursday, 12th. Fresh breezes and squally,
with a high sea. Wind N.N.W. Passed
the Magdalen Islands and Bird Island (so
cdled from its being the resort of gannets
and other sea-fowl) in the night : then the
wind came round to the northward against
us.

Friday, 13th. The land about Cape Gaspe
in sight, and the soi th- west part of the island
of Anticosti. This island is of considerable
extent, being 130 miles in length and 30 in
breadth ; it is not high land, and in a more
happy situation its scenery would be pleasing.
It is uninhabited ; the climate being too in-
hospitable to admit of its being settled upon.
It is covered with small trees, the dark foliage
of which presents an appearance extremely
dreary. P.M. fresh breezes from the N.W.

"fi

and squally with a high broken sea ; a brig in
sight.

Saturday, 14th. Light winds and cloudy.
Caught several very fine mackerel, also several
dogfish (an animal resembling a shark in
make, but small, having a skin as rough as a
line file). P.M. nearly calm, with heavy rain.
At 10, fresh gales at north, and squally wea-
ther ; furled the mainsail, and close-reefed
topsails. The northern lights very brilliant,
and casting a great light, illuminating the he-
misphere from N. W. to N.E. ; they prevail
here winter and summer.

Sunday, 15th. Fresh breezes and cold clear
weather. W'nd N.by E. Beating up between
the island of Anticosti and the main. Caught
several fine mackerel.

Monday, 16th. Moderate and fine weather.
At 8, nearly calm. Supplied, bound to Quebec
with 160 passengers, the brig Jane, with provi-
sions : which had been out nine weeks and their
provision^ nearly expended, having been for
some time on a reduced allowance. P.M. at
2, a breeze sprung up from the S.W . made all
sail: set studding sails. The island of Aiiticosti
and Cape Gaspe in sight. A strong current

SI c

i i

if!

I
if

•: f'

■I ':',

I in

i2d

sets here along the western shore. Caught
several fine mackerel and some dogfish. At
10, calm.

Tuesday, 17th. At 8, fresh breezes, W.N. W.
and fine weather ; course north : the land near
the entrance of the river, to the southward,
in sight. At noon, saw the land to the north-
ward about Seven Islands Bay. P.M. at 8,
nearly calm. At midnight, we were abreast
Ci Seven Islands Bay.

Wednesday, 18th. Calm till 10 o'clock,
then a breeze sprung up at west : made sail on
the starbociid tack. The land on both sides in
sight; that to the southward about Cape Chat
is very high land. Several small birds came
on board. P.M. light and variable winds,
and warm pleasant weather.

Thursday 19th. At 8, light airs, nearly
calir, with warm, clear, and pleasant weather.
The Montpeles or Bald Mountains in sight,
also the land about Cape Chat at the entrance
of the liver St. Lawrence. Several vessels in
sight. Saw several whales. At midnight,
light breezes and fine weather.

Friday, 20th. At 7, 30, got a pilot onboard:
a French Canadian. Moderate breezes and

hazy weather. At 4, P.M. passed tlic Bald
Mountains' point. At midnight, cahii.

Saturday, 21st. Light airs, nearly calm,
and very hazy, so that the land cannot be
seen. P.M. at 1, 30, a breeze sprung up from
the eastward: course W.S.W. At 7, 30, set
the larboard foretopmast-studding sail. At
midnight, moderpte breezes and fine weather.

Sunday, 22d. At 8, saw Point Mille Vaclie
to th' r» ^hward, distant four or five miles.
From thence to the island of Bic or Bique,
across the river, is thirteen miles. Ships take
pilots there ; and the river is here about six-
teen miles wide. A light breeze from the
S.E.and fine pleasant weather, although hazy.
P.M. at 8, fresh breezes from the S.W. and
squally with h^avy rain. Up courses and
hove to. At 5 0, filled again : fresh gales ^.nd
squally, with i" 17 and a thick fog. At mid-
night, ditto w i .t J ,er.

Monday, 23d. Fresh gales at W.N.W. and
hazy weather. At 3, came to with the best
bower, in eleven fathoms water, off* the south
shore of the river, which is here about ten or
twelve mil wide ; the island of Bique bear-
ing N.E. 1/ E, seven or eight miles, and

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: !«

'' <i

Green Island S.W. by W. about fifteen miles:
the south shore distant one and a half or two
miles. At day-light, more moderate weather.
At 10, weighed and made sail: the wind
W.N.W. course S.W. At 6, P.M. we passed
the light-house on Green Island. A few miles
before we reached this island, the country on
the south bank of the river ■ '\^s first to be
inhabited. At 10, we anchor i in fifteen
fathoms water, six or seven miles S.W. of
Green Island.

Tuesday, 24th. Fresh breezes and cold clear
weather : wind S.W. At 2, 30, weighed and
made sail. We are now in the way of the tides
which commence at Green Island. At 7, 15,
the flood-tide having done, we anchored
abreast of Hare Island, between the Brandy
Pots Islands and Pilgrim's Islands, in six
fathoms water. Hare Island (so called from
the hares which abound on it) is eighty-five
miles from Quebec ; it is situated in the mid-
channel of the river, which is here about four-
teen miles in width. The country on the
south shore of the river, opposite this island,
is well cleared and cultivated. P.M. fresh
gales at S.W. At 1, weighed ; at 6, anchored

again, ten miles to the north-cast of Kamour-
aska, in seven fathoms water.

Wednesday, 25th. Weighed when the flood-
tide began to make, and made sail : wind
S. W. moderate breezes and clear. At 9, an-
chored otf the islands of Kamouraska in seven-
teen fathoms ; a windmill, near the town, bear-
ing S. by W. W. four or five miles distant.
Kamouraska is a small town on the south
bank of the river, pleasantly situated in a level
of no great extent. It has a large and hand-
some parish church. From this town to Que-
bec the water of the river is fresh at all times.
Persons resort to Kamouraska during the
summer months for the benefit of sea-bathing.
There is a road from here to Quebec, and also
one to St. John's, the capital of the province
of New Brunswick. On the opposite side of
the river, is a deep and extensive bay called
Malbay ; and settlements have begun to be
formed on the declivities of the high moun-
tains fronting the river. Several patches of
cleared ground, of considerable extent, are
now covered with corn. The mountains are
thickly wooded from their summits to the
water's edge. Seals and white porpoises

f \

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Sj,,

abound in this part of the river. At 3, 30
P. M. weighed and made sail ; wind S.W. At
6, 30, anchored again.

Thursday, 26th. At 3, weighed and made
sail. At 6, we passed through the Traverse,
between the two buoys. There are shoals in
this part of the river, and the tides run with
very great rapidity. Opposite to the Traverse,
on the south shore, is St. Roch, a small vil-
lage, delightfully situated on a level tract of
land lying between the river and the moun-
tains. It has a neat parish church. The strip
of land extending along the south bank of the
river is about half a mile in breadth, and is
all under tillage: the corn has now a luxuriant
and beautiful appearance. The farm houses,
V liich are numerous on the south side of the
riv^er, are neat and commodious ; almost all
have two rooms in front, and are two stories
high, with lofty roofs: they are constructed
of wood and covered with shingles, the sides
being whitewashed, or painted white, and the
roofs of a lead colour. Near St. Roch, are
three remarkable hills or mountains ; they are
of small extent, but steep and of considerable
height, and have the appearance of being the

work of art rather than of nature. To tiie
south-west of St. Roch, off the islands or
rocks called the Pijlars, the coast is thickly
inhabited. The river is here about twelve
miles wide. The opposite side is high land ;
the declivity facing the river is, however, not
very steep ; and a great part of it, from Cape
Goose to the westward towards Cape Tor-
ment, is cleared and covered with houses and
corn-fields. On the brow of the hill is a vil-
lage containing from twelve to twenty fai'm-
liouses ; and it has a neat parish church. Here
arc strips of cleared land two miles in length,
and from half a mile to a mile in width. The
otiicr parts of the mountain are one entire
thick and gloomy forest to their summits.
Yet its dark green hue forms a very beautiful
contrast to the rich golden tint of the corn-
fields, studded with white farm-houses, Per-
liaps even the banks of the Thames do not
present to us scenery which surpasses this in
beauty,— certainly not in grandeur.
" At 9, the tide having done, we came to an
anchor, two or three miles beyond the buoys
of the Traverse. At 3, P.M. we weighed
again, and at 5 passed the village of St-

V ]

•Hi

John's, nearly opposite the Island of Coudre,
one of the most beautiful and fertile islands
in the St. Lawrence : it is low land, and there
are houses and corn-fields down to the water's
edge ; several copses and small woods, left for
fire-wood and purposes of husbandry, serve
also to diversify and embellish the scenery.

From St. Roch to St. John's the distance
is eight or ten miles. The hills to the south-
ward are not lofty ; from their summits to
the water's edge is three or four miles, and
the declivity, which is very gradual, is covered
with wood down to about half, or, in some
places, three quarters of a mile from the river ;
then that space is cleared, and in a high state
of cultivation. The corn-fields have a luxu-
riant appearance, the corn being now fit for
cutting ; and perhaps no scenery can be more
agreeable, or rich, or picturesque. The dark
green hue of the forest contrasted to the yel-
low tints of the corn-fields ; the houses irre-
gularly scattered on the banks of the great
river ; several small islands and rocks over-
grown with trees ; the river itself twelve miles
in width, — present a prospect at once sublime,
beautiful, and interesting.

At 9, the flood-tide having done, we
brought up in eight fathoms water. Light
breezes, and fine, warm, pleasant weather.

Friday, 27th. At 4, 30, the flood-tide
beginning to make, we weighed and made
sail. At 6, passed the village of St. Thomas,
where there is a neat parish church. At 9,
we passed Crane Island and Rot Island, lying
in the mid-channel : low islands, covered with
trees, to the water's edge, and having a beau-
ful appearance. Light breezes and fine plea-
sant weather.

At 10,15 we were abreast of Bertier, a
pretty village, delightfully situated in a fine
level country, on the south bank of the river,
about 30 miles below Quebec and 10 miles from
St. Thomas's. Opposite Bertier, about mid-
channel of the river, is the Island Madam, un-
inhabited and covered with timber. It is low
land, and extends for a mile (being its extreme
length) along the east end of the island of
Orleans ; the finest and best cultivated island
below Quebec. On the opposite side of the
river are bold and lofty mountains. At 11, 40,
the tide having done, we brought up beyond

6;;

. :!l'

the small island of Belle Chasse. At nooii)
light airs and pleasant weather.

The island of Orleans is about thirty miles
in length, and four in breadth. It is of a very
moderate height, rising gradually from the
water, on each side, to the middle, on which
is a narrow line of wood land. There is also
a border of trees, extending all along the south
bank of the river, from the water's edge to
about a furlong's breadth. From thence to the
summit or ridge of the island, is about two
miles, and that space is wholly cleared and
under cultivation; being divided into straight-
sided fields of from three to seven or eight acres,
enclosed with wood fences. The farm-houses
are interspersed on the declivity: they have an
appearance of neatness, comfort, and conve-
nience ; and near every one is a large bam.
Close to the river's side, on the south bank,
are several villages, at a distance of from three
to six miles from each other. That on the
eastern extremity of t ' e island is called St.
Francois : six miles to the westward of it is
St. John's. The channel between the island
and the south bank of the St. Lawrence is

from four to six miles in width ; and the coast
of the main being well cultivated and very
populous, the scenery, as viewed from the
island or the river, scarcely yields to any in
beauty and luxuriance.

At 5, 30, weighed and made sail. At C, we
passed St. Valier, a handsome village situated
at the bottom of a small bay: from it there is
a fine view of the Isle of Orleans and the ad-
jacent small islands ; the scenery in its imme*
diate neighbourhood is delightful; and it has
a good parish church. We afterwards passed
the villages of St. Michael, Beaumont, and St.
Joseph ; and the country around them has tlie
same luxuriant, romantic, and beautiful ap-
pearance with that already described. At
10, 30, the tide having ceased to flow, we an-
chored a little below the village of Point Levi,
off the west end of the Island of Orleans.
Light breezes and pleasant weather.

Saturday, Aug. 28. At 7, 30, weighed in
order to go alongside the wharf at Quebec,
from which we are now about five or six miles
distant. We have now a fine view of the
magnificent Falls of Montmorency, where the
river of the same name precipitates itself

from a height of 246 feet perpendicular into
the St. Lawrence. The city of Quebec is
also open to our view, with the grand and ro-
mantic scenery in its vicinity. The surround-
ing country abounds in villages and corn-
fields, and in richness of appearance it may
vie with the best settled parts of the Old
World.

At 9, we brought up near the wharf in nine
fathoms water ; having been sixty-three days
on our passage from Liverpool. We have had
a good passage, although a tedious one.

The behaviour of the captain of the vessel
(Mr. Robert Dye), and of the chief mate (Mr.
Thomas Randall), both of whom were excel-
lent seamen, and worthy intelligent men, was
uniformly kind, obliging, and social. The pro-
visions with which I furnished myself were
more than sufficient for the voyage.

5i;

.> I

1 1:

'. i ./

1 . ; . '

' ' ti. t .

I !

; , 3. '

CHAPTER III.

Directions for travelling from Quebec to Kingston and
Hamilton— Directions for travelling from Kingston
to York, the Capital of the Upper Province, 580
miles West of Quebec — How, and to whom. Emi-
grants must apply for Grants of Land, or the Pur-
chase of Farms — Advertisements respecting the
granting of Lands copied from the Upper Canada
Gazette of January 6th, 1820.

Th: ..nigrant having arrived at Quebec,
his first consideration will be what part of the
country to settle in : and whether he be a
farmer i a mechanic, or a husbandman, I
should strongly recommend him to proceed
without delay to Upper Canada; and to locate
himself somewhere between the towns of
Kingston and York, on the borders of Lake
Ontario, about 500 miles west of Que-
bec. The length of the journey may startle
him ; but it will be greatly to his advantage
to undertake it; and by adhering strictly
to the following advice and directions, his
expenses will not be very considerable.

Many persons, both at Quebec and whilst
he is travelling through the country, will
officially inquire into his situation and cir-
cumstances, and offer him their advice ; but
he will do well not to listen tu it, as their
motives most probably will be self-interested.
Let him be cautious how he gratifies idle cu-
riosity ; and let him rather steadily pursue
the advice here given, as it proceeds from one
whose motive in writing this book, is that his
fellow-countrymen may reap the benefit of his
experience, and not be subjected to imposition
or unnecessary expense.

Amherst, or the Courthouse, in the town-
ship of Hamilton, Oistrict of Newcastle, ^s a
small town well situated on the borders of
Lake Ontario, 115 miles west of Kingston,
75 miles east of York, and about 500 miles
west of Quebec. The great west or front
road from Montreal to York, the capital of
the Upper Province, and seat of government,
passes through it ; and its neighbourhood is
very eligible for settlers of all denominations.
The route is as follows : Quebec to Montreal,
180 miles ; Montreal to Kingston, 180 miles ;
Kingston to the head of the Bay of Quiiite,

75 miles ; head of the Bay of Quinte to Am-
Iierst in Hamilton, commonly called the
Courthouse at Hamilton, 40 miles.

Exclusive of its fine situation, the city of
Quebec affords scarcely BXiy thing that can
either excite or gratify curiosity; the emigrant,
therefore, should leave it as soon as possible.
Let the vessel in which he came out be his
home during his stay ; his baggage will be
taken the best care of there, and he will be at
no expense for a boat or cart to remove it
until his final departure. Besides, if he go to
an inn or public-house, he will find himself
very disagreeably situated, and the charges
extremely high» without a single comfort or
convenience, x should advise him to depart
for Montreal the very next day after his ar-
rival ; or as soon as his baggage has been in-
spected 071 board by a custom-house officer,
for which there will be no expense, and
which business he must leave to the captain of
the ship.

Montreal is 180 miles soiith-west of Que-
bec ; seven steam-packets, pix)vided with
every accommodation which passengers can
require, run between the two cities : one of

:, i

'i Ml

them leaving Quebec every other day. The
largest are of 700 tons burden; and there
are no vessels of the kind in the world supe-
rior to them. Cabin passengers pay each
about 21. 10s. sterling ; besides a very reason-
able charge for their baggage, if it exceed a
certain weight or quantity. For that sum
they are furnished with provisions and beds,
paying exclusively for porter, liquor, or le-
monade. In this country no money (or vails)
is ever given to waiters or servants. The pas-
sage is performed in from thirty-six to forty-
four hours, according as there may be more or
less wind. Steerage passengers pay 15^. ster-
ling, and are allowed to take a moderate
quantity of baggage gratis. They find their
own provisions and beds ; the remainder of
their stock of provisions brought from Eng-
land will serve. Going in the steerage
is a very cheap mode of travelling ; the
inconveniences attending the conveyance may
on that account be si^'^mitted to by frugal
persons : and every one vill find frugality to
be very necessary in the Canadas. When
the emigrant has determined upon proceed-
ing to Montreal, let him go on board one

Rfoi

of the steam- vessels, and acquaint the captain
that he intends going with him as a cabin or
steerage passenger. He must then learn at what
hour the vessel goes, and be on board in time;
hiring a cart or porter to convey his baggage
from the ship. Eighty miles from Quebec, on
the north bank of the river, is the town of
Trois Rivieres, near which are extensive iron
works. It is necessary that every person
should look well to the security of his bag-
gage. A small trunk, or other light article,
may easily be taken away by another passen-
ger through mistake* This caution must be
particularly attended to on his arrival at Mca-
treal ; for as soon as the steam-vessel reaches
the wharf, most of the passengers leap on
shore with their portable baggage, and never
return. The expenses of boarding and lodg-
ing at Montreal are very considerable ; being
from 5s, to 7^. Qd, a day at the hotels ; and at
the boarding-houses, from 15s, to 25^. a week.
Mr. Clamp's coffee-house, near the wharf,
has excellent accommodation ; and Mr. Clamp,
who is an Englishman, pays great attention
to the comforts of those who visit his house.
A short description of the boarding-houses

? 'I

nnd small inns in this country may be ser-
viceable. Boarding-houses are numerous in
the cities and towns of America. Those of the
first class are respectable; and at them tlie
accommodation is good and agreeable, paiti-
cularly in those where each of the company
has a separate bed-room. The charges are a
dollar, or four shillings a day. At inferior
boarding-houses the accommodations are not
comfortable, or convenient, or good. The
company consists of all classes, from the man
of independent property to the mechanic. The
beds are indifferent, and from four to ten are
crowded in one room, destitute of curtains,
kc. and swarming with fleas and bugs. In
such houses there is no such thing as comfort
or privacy. Inns of the second class bear a
great resemblance to the latter kind of board-
ing-houses. A person may either board at
them for so much a week, or pay for each
meal separately : in that case the charges
are extremely high : 2s. or 2s, 6d. for
breakfast ; 2^. 6d. for dinner, and 2^. or
2s. 6d. for supper, without beer or liquor ; be-
sides sixpence or a shilling a night for a bed
in a room where are half a dozen others. It

must, however, be acknowledged, that the
tables here are far more plentifully furnished
with provisions than in England, and of as
good a quality. The innkeepers in this coun-
try are too independent in their principles to
pay the least attention to the comfort or con-
venience of their guests. They do not behave
even with common civility. An Englishman,
wlio expects to find that ready compliance
with his wishes and wants to which he has been
accustomed in England, will be greatly dis-
appointed. There are no bells, as there are
no servants, at the inns in this country. Thj
traveller finds himself solitary, unnoticed, and
left to supply his own wants. If he is loud,
or peremptory, or remonstrative, he is treated
in return with insolence or contempt. The
chief aim of the host is to get the stranger's
money; generosity and benevolence are not
ingredients in his composition.

Montreal is a handsome and flourishing
town, pleasantly situated between a lofty
mountain, of peculiar beauty, and the river
St. Lawimce: it is pretty well paved and
lighted, and contains about 25,000 inhabit-
ants. Shoemakers, tailors, joiners, bricklay-

.;. I

!('!

(

ii [ A

ers, and brickmakers, might find employment
here, should their money be nearly ex-
pended.

Should the steam-vessel in which the emi-
grant came from Quebec, continue at Mon-
treal twenty or twenty-four hours, he can, to
avoid expenses on shore, remain on board the
night following his arrival ; and in the mom
ing, hire a cart in the old market-place (which
is close to the wharf) to convey his baggage
to La Chine, distant nine miles. There is no
conveyance by water to that village, on ac-
count of the rapids, and a cart may be hired
for five, or, at most, six shillings. He can
walk by the side of it, and order the driver
to go to Messrs. Grant and Duff's, mer-
chants, at La Chine, who will forward his bag-
gage to Kingston, consigned to Mr. H. C.
Thomson, in whose store it will be perfectly
safe until his arrival. The packages must
have the owner's name upon them, and be di-
rected to Kingston. He must obtain a re-
ceipt from Messrs. Grant and Duff, and they
will be accountable for their safety. An in-
ventory should be kept of the contents of every
package, The emigrant will have leisure to

make out this during his passage from Eng-
land to Quebec. At La Chine he can go to
Mrs. Campbeirs inn.

The emigrant has now the most difficult
part of the journey before him, viz. that be-
tween La Chine and Prescott, a distance of
120 or 130 miles. There is, however, a good
road (the great west road), and farm-houses
at every half mile or mile, the whole way,
with inns at a convenient distance from each
other.

There are three modes of travelling. The
most expeditious, and most expensive, is
by the stage which conveys the mail: it
passes through La Chine twice a week
during the summer. The fare is thirteen
dollars, or about 3/. sterling, from La Chine
to Prescott, and the passenger is allowed the
carriage of a small trunk gratis. The fare
and provisions on the journey will make
the whole expense amount to 31. 12s. sterling.
No money is given to the driver. When the
coach arrives at Prescott, passengers can pro-
ceed to Kingston, sixty miles further, in a
steam-vessel up the river St. Lawrence, or on
foot.

The second method of travelling from La

I' I'

Chine to Kingston, is by the Batteaux or
Durham boats. In that case the emigrant
can accompany his baggage, as the boats be-
longing to Messrs. Grant and Duff which
convey merchandize, also take passengers at a
moderate expense ; they finding their own
beds and provisions on the way. These boats
do not arrive at Kingston in less than ten or
twelve days j the passengers suffer many in-
conveniences and some hardships : yet for
women and children this is, perhaps, the least
expensive mode of travelling, as well as the
most convenient. Provisions, such as biscuit,
or bread and meat, should be taken from La
Chine. Passengers sleep on shore at nights,
either at a house, if there happen to be one
near, or under a tree. They also have to
land and walk where there are rapids.
(Rapids are descents of the river, of greater
or less extent, sometimes being upwards of a
mile in length, where its bed is full of large
stones, over which the current flows very ra-
pidly, and breaks with violence).

The third way of travelling from La Chine
to Prescott and Kingston during the summer
months, is on foot. For single men it is eli-
gible, easy, and cheap. There are farm-houses

Hr.

and inns on the great west road for the whole
distance. By subsisting principally on bread
and cheese and milk, or Sepaune and milk,
the expense of each person will not be more
than three shillings sterling a day ; and he
may walk with ease thirty miles a day,
having sent his baggage forward from La
Chine to Kingston by a bateau from Messrs.
Grant and Duff's. If travellers call at farm-
houses, they will not be charged so much for
provisions and beds as at the inns. Even
women and children might travel in the same
manner by easy stages, and by sometimes
hiring a waggon for a few miles, which ci n
always be procured of a farmer on the road.
Nine miles from La Chine, the road passes
through the town of Point Claire ; and nine
miles further, is the ferry over the River
Ottawa (four miles,) which is passed in
a bateau. There is then a good road
through a populous country to Glengary,
a considerable Scotch settlement, about sixty
miles from La Chine. Or after proceed-
ing fifteen miles from the ferry over the
River Ottawa, the traveller can hire a ba-
teau (at a house by the side of the lake)

II!'

to take him to Glengary down the Lake St.
Francis, twenty-four miles. Going that dis-
tance by water would be a great relief to
women and children, and the expense would
not be very considerable ; especially, if by in-
quiring the day when the mail would pass
over, they could be in readiness to go with it.
From Glengary to the town of Cornwall (the
next stage) the distance is twelve or fourteen
miles, and the road good. From Cornwall to
Prescott the River St. Lawrence is mostly
seen from the road, and between those two
towns the country is thickly settled; and there
are several villages. When the emigrant has
arrived at Prescott, he may proceed, at a small
expense, to Kingston in a steam-packet (up
the River St. Lawrence), or continue his
journey on foot. From Prescott to Kingston
the distance is sixty or sixty-five miles ; the
country is also well settled and the roads
good.

Kingston is a town of considerable size,
agreeably situated upon a cove at the north-
east end of the Lake Ontario, above the head
of the St. Lawrence. It is our naval dep6t
in this part of the world, and has a good har-

»i

har-

bour. In its neighbourhood are several quar-
ries of Limestone. Lat. 44° 80' N. long.
75° 40' W.

Should the emigrant have occasion to re-
main at this town a few days to wait the ar-
rival of his baggage, or recover from the fa-
tigues of his journey, he will find excellent
accommodation at Mr. Benjamin Alcott's inn,
a quarter of a mile up the main street, lead-
ing from the wharf or landing-place. Mr.
Olcott is a very worthy honest man, and
charges reasonably. Mrs. Patrick's inn is
also well recommended ; as are Mr. Walker's
hotel and Mr. Moore's coffee-house, as supe-
rior houses.

From Kingston to the Court-house in Ha-
milton the distance is 115 miles, and the route
is as follows :

A steam -packet goes twice a week during
tlie summer, from Kingston to the carrying-
place at the head of the bay of Quinte, a dis-
tance of seventy-five miles. The fare for
steerage passengers is trifling, they finding
their own provisions. At the carrying-place
are two inns. The distance to the Court-
house at Hamilton is forty miles ; the road is

D 21

good, and the country in its vicinity well
cleared and settled. At Presqisle, eight miles
from the carrying- place, is Mr. Marsh's inn,
and his charges are very moderate. Twenty-
two miles further, at Haldemand, are Mr«
Glover's and Mr. Spalding's inns. There is
a good inn at Cobourg, two miles short of the
Court-house at Hamilton; and two good inns
at the Court-house. There is a land-board
at the Court-house every Wednesday, of
which Major Rogers, of Haldemand, is pre-
sident. Emigrants may there obtain grants
of land, on producing certificates of their
having taken the oath of allegiance to His
Majesty's government. Or they may pur-
chase good farms in the neighbourhood, or
find employment among the old settlers. But
the best and most convenient method for set-
tlers to proceed, is to go from Kingston to
York, at the west end of Lake Ontario,
the capital of the Upper Province, and the
seat of government; and to apply at the
office of Mr. Fitzgibbon for instructions.
From that gentleman they will receive every
requisite information and assistance. Should
they wish to purchase farms, they would at

ir.

that office procure them the most readily, and
on the most advantageous terms. And if they
wish to receive gi'ants of land, they coiikl
there take the oath of allegiance, and got
their petitions to the council made out for a
trifling expense, not more than seven or eight
shillings. A steam-packet proceeds from
Kingston tc York once a week. The fare for
steerage passengers is fifteen shillings ; (they
furnishing themselves with provisions,) &c. ;
the distance 180 miles ; and the length of tlie
passage about thirty-six hours. There are
also small vessels, which take passengers and
goods on vPiy moderate terms, continually
going in the summer from Kingston to Ha-
milton and York.

I should still recommend emigrants, after
having been at York, to establish themselves
finally in the neighbourhood of Amherst or the
Courthouse, in the township of Hamilton,
in the Newcastle district, county of North-
umberland ; of which a description will be
given in the next chapter. After having re-
ceived a grant of land at York, in a township
(of which several will be ready for settling this
year, 1820) in that district, the emigrant

■• I SI

:i i

might proceed by water froai York to the \iU
lage of Cobourg, two miles from the Court-
house at Hainiltoii, or Smith's Creek, five
miles from it, in a schooner; or on foot, the
dis'^ance being about seventy-five miles, the
road good, with inns at convenient distances ;
and the country well settled.

The following advertisement is copied from
the Upper Canada Gazette (published at
York), of January 6th, 1820.

" General Land Agency Office, York, Upper

Canada."

' M:

((

(S
(S

a
(i

*' The subscribers hare established un of-
fice? at the seat of the government of Upper
Canada, for the purpose of transacting land
agency busine^o of every description.
" Emigrants, and rll ethers applying for
lands from the Crown, can obtain every re-
quisite assistance and information, to enable
them to transact their business with the least
possible loss of time and trouble. One of
the subscribers having been appointed a
commissioner to administer the oath of alle-
giancej additional facility is thereby afforded

I ^

r
it-

|s;

in expediting the business of petitioners for
" grants of the Crown lands.

" This office will a/ford the easiest and
" most probable means of enabling persons to
" purchase or sell lands in any part of the
" province. A regular register of all lands
" offered for sale wdll be kept, and persons
'' wishing to purchase, shall have access to it
" free of expense.

" No pains will be spared to make this es-
** tabL'shment of great utility to the public,
" who, in their transactions with it, may
" depend upon meeting with the most ready
" attention.

" Letters transmitted by post, are requested
** to be post-paid.

" B. Geale,

« J. FiTZGIBBON."

The latter gentleman, who is an officer in
the army, distinguished himself eminently in
the late war with the United States, when
their armies invaded this province ; and the
utmost confidence may be placed in the honour
and integrity of bot'i.

The following regulations have lately been

il:

U ■

made by his Excellency the Lieutenant-go-
vernor, with respect to the granting of land in
the Upper Province : this advertisement is
also copied from the Upper Canada Gazette
of January 6th, 1820.

" Executive Council Office, York, 14th De-
cember, 1819.

" Whereas, it is desirable to alleviate the
situation of the poorer classes of settlers, by
an exemption from any charge on the
patent-deed, and also to remove all obstacles
from the more free accommodation of others
with larger grants than have been usually
made : his Excellency the Lieutenant-go-
vernor in council has been pleased to order,
that the first-mentioned class of settlers may
receive a gratuitous grant of fifty acres;
under exclusion, be it understood, from any
further grant from the Crown, but with li-
berty to lease the reserves.
** To meet the above gratuity, and in-
creased burdens attending the purchase and
distribution of lands, &c. ; it is ordered that
the scale of demands on the grant of one

a
(t
it
a

a
a
ti

66
6(
6(

<(
tt

hundred acres and upwards, shall be regu-
lated according to the annexed table, to
take effect from the 1st January, 1820.
" It is further ordered, that the restriction
from sale for three years be abolished ; and
that deeds may issue, on proper certificates
of the performance of settling duties being
produced. The grantee will be required to
clear one half of the road in front of each
lot, and the depth of two and one-half chains
from the road the whole length of every lot,
and erect a dwelling-house.

« FEES.

CS
((
it

<t
<(

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((
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" Upon all grants of land issuing under Or-
ders in Council, bearing date subsequent to
1st January, 1820, the following sums will
be paid by the patentee :

^ Sterling.

On grants of 50 acres . .

On grants of 1 00 acres. . .

On grants of 200 acres. . .

On grants of 300 acres. . .

On grants of 400 acres. . .

On grants of 500 acres. . .

12
30
60
75
125

r ^

^ Sterling

^* On grants of 600 acres. . . . 150

" On grants of 700 acres. . . , 175

*^ On grants of 800 acres. , . . 200

" On grants of 900 acres. . . . Q25 ......

" On grants of 1000 acres . . . '250 .....

" On grants of 1100 acres. . . . 275

« On grants of 1200 acresv . . . 300 ......

" In three equal instalments.

" The first on receipt of the location
*' ticket ; the second, on certificate filed of
" settlement ; the third, on receipt of the
" fiat for the patent.

" No petition can be entertained unless ac-
** companied by a written character, or a sa-
" tisfactory reason shown for such not being
" produced.

(Signed) " John Small, Clk. Ex. Con.*'

Any emigrant from Great Britain, whethe:
farmer, husbandman, or mechanic, may re-
ceive a grant of fifty acres of land, under the
above-mentioned restrictions, on application
at York to James Fitzgibbon and B. Geale,
Esquires ; and all are entitled to the benefit
of the above regulations.

»»

CHAPTER IV.

The part of the Upper Province which is best to settle
in— Description of the neighbourhood of Amherst, or
the Court-house, in the township of Hamilton, Dis-
trict of Newcastle, County of Northumberland —
Rice Lake : its fine Situation for Settlers, &c. — Ex-
pense of clearing Land — Expense of building Houses
and Barns — Maple Sugar — Cattle — Hogs — Horses-
Poultry, &c.

That portion of the Upper Province which
borders on Lake Ontario, between the carry-
ing-place at the head of the bay of Quinte, or
Presqisle, and the town of York, the capital
and residence of the Lieutenant-governor,
offers the most eligible situations for settlers of
all descriptions. The great road from King-
ston to York passes through it. The soil for
that extent, 115 miles, is excellent, and the
climate salubrious, being milder in winter
than it is between Montreal and Kingston,
and not so hot in summer as it is beyond
York, and on the borders of Lake Erie. That
tract is also well watered by creeks and small

» li

til

■\

rivulets, and the aspect of the country is agree-
able. It is not mountainous or low, but finely
undulated.

The town of Amherst (commonly called
the Court-house,) in the township of Hamil-
ton, district of Newcastle, county of North-
umberland, is finely situated, at a distance of
forty miles from the head of the bay of
Quinte, and seventy miles from York. It is
two miles from the village of Cobourgh, and
five miles from the town of Port Hope or
Smith's Creek, both situated on Lake Onta-
rio ; and half-way between it and Cobourgh is
the best and most extensive grist-mill in the
province. In its vicinity there are also several
saw-mills. The immediate neighbourhood of
the town of Amherst is well settled and popu-
lous; and to the eastward, westward, and
north-westward of it, are several extensive
townships, already partly settled, and rapidly
increasing in improvement and population.
Good farms, suitable in size for anT/ purchaser,
with houses and other buildings on them, are
always on sale in this district. At the distance
of ten miles and a half due north of that town,
is Rice Lake, a most beautiful piece of water.

twenty-two miles in length from east to west,
and from three to four miles and a half wide.
The picturesque and interesting scenery which
this lake, with its numerous small islands,
thickly wooded to the water's edge, and its
luxuriant fields of rice, presents to the view,
is not, perhaps, surpassed by any, either in the
New or the Old World. It abounds with fine
fish ; and, in the spring and autumn months,
immense flocks of wild ducks, geese, and
other aquatic fowls, darken its surface. It
produces an abundance of rice of an excellent
quality ; whence its name. The country which
surrounds it, is elevated from forty to sixty feet
above its level ; and although the land breaks
upon it rather too abruptly, yet there is a fine
shore, neither too bold, nor so low as to be wet
or swampy. The Otanabee, a river as wide as
the Thames at London, discharges itself into
the lake on the north side, at nearly an equal
distance from each end of it. It is navigable
for vessels of a considerable burden, for twenty
miles from its entrance. Rice Lake has also
a communication by water with the bay of
Quinte, by means of the River Trent; there
are, however, rapids for a short distance.

' m n

tt '■

which at present interrupt the navigation :
but the government has it in contemplation
to make a canal. A good carriage-road leads
to the lake from Amherst. On its north bor-
ders one township (Otanabee,) containing
75,000 acres, inclusive of 1,800 acres as a
plot for a town, has just been surveyed ; and
the applicants for the land were so numerous,
that 50,000 acres were located within a week
after it became ready for settlement. The
town will offer very eligible situations for
tradesmen and mechanics ; and a quantity of
land, on terms extremely liberal and advan-
tageous, will be allowed them to build upon.
Two other townships, of nearly the same
extent as Otanabee, will be ready for lo-
cation, and distribution among emigrants, this
spring and summer ; from May to November.
The soil is in general excellent ; and, when
the above canal is completed, the borders of
Rice Lake will, without doubt, be one of the
finest situations in the Canadas, as well for
agriculture as commerce. The land, which
is thickly wooded with maple, beech, hickory,
elm, ash, bass, and some oak, pine, cedarj,
cherry, and walnut, may be cleared and fenced

ready for the first crop, '.vliich requires no as-
sistance from the plough, for about eighteen
dollars, or four pounds sterling, an acre. The
first crop is considered to pay all expenses of
felling the timber, burning it and fencing the
land. A log-house may be built for from ten
to twenty pounds sterling, according to its
size ; and a barn, capable of holding fifty
quarters of wheat in the straw, for about five
pounds sterling. A person would not require
a barn the first year. Maple-sugar, equal in
quality to the best West India sugar, is made
by every farmer at no other expense than
that of his labour. Some persons here make
from 500 to 1000 pounds annually.

The land produces excellent wheat, from
twenty-four to fifty Winchester bushels per
acre, according to its quality : — also good rye,
barley, oats, and pease. The next best pro-
duction is maize or Indian corn. From 40
to 100 bushels are produced on an acre of
land from four quarts of seed. It affords
wholesome and nutritious flour for domestic
consumption, and is the best and readiest feed
for pigs and cattle. When pigs are put up to
be fattened, the com is given to them in the

64,

'I
.1

ftl

cob without any preparation. Most farmers
feed from ten to thirty hogs every year, each
weighing from twelve to eighteen stone, of
fourteen pounds to the stone. The pork, which
is equal to any fed in England, is packed in
barrels (with salt), containing 200 pounds
each, and in general sells for 4id. or iiid,
per i)ound. Salt here is bought for 4j. 6(L
sterling a bushel.

The breed of horned cattle in this province
is small, but hardy and thrifty. The excellent
I)asturage which this country affords for cow .
gives to their milk a peculiar richness ; and
the butter and cheese are not surpassed in
quality by any in the world. The former
sells for 1^. and 1*. 3d. and the latter for 8^.
and lOd. a pound, of sixteen ounces. Good
milch cows are sold for from 51, to 7/. sterling
each. Oxen are in general used for draught.
A yoke of good oxen (two) may be bought
for 16/. sterling. Beef sells for 4id. a pound.

The sheep resemble the Norfolk breed in
England, being rather tall, and frequently
horned, with darkish legs and faces. A flock
will average each about five pounds of wool,
of a Jineish quality ; and it is commonly sold .

for 2a'. 6d. sterling a pound. Almost every
farmer keeps from 20 to 100 sheep ; and as
families here manufacture their own wearing
apparel, blankets, &cc. in a manner which does
infinite credit to their ingenuity and industry,
the wool is mostly consumed for those pur-
poses. Mutton sells at 4</. and 5d, a pound.

The horses here are small, but spirited and
extremely hardy. During the winter they
are very much used in drawing sleighs ; and,
when on a journey, will travel with ease fifty
miles a day. When cast loose, they take
great delight in rolling themselves in the
snow, which is frequently from one to two
feet deep on the level ground. A good horse
will fetch from 16/. to 24/. sterling.

There is an abundance of domestic poul-
try in Upper Canada, the climate being very
favourable to the production and rearing of it.
Almost every farmer has a flock of geese. One
brood goose in general brings up ten or twelve
young ones ; they are similar in their habits
and unanimity to those common in England,
but of a larger size, weighing mostly ten or
twelve pounds each. Feathers are sold for
2^. Sd, per pound.

CHAPTER V.

tiir^«

;i i.

Animal and Vegetable Productions of Upper Canada —
Deer — Beaver — Otter — Musk-rat — Hare — Bear —
Wolf — Fox — Racoon — Porcupine — Martin — Squir-
rel — Serpents — Birds, Partridge — Pigeons — Wild
Ducks — Gees« — Humming Bird, &c.. . Fish; Salmon
— Trout — Maskalungi, &c.—» Trees, Shrubs, and
Pants — A pples — Peaches — Plums — Cherries— Hic-
kory Nuts — Butter Nuts— Walnuts, &c. &c.

In proportion to the increase of the human
species, and the progress of cultivation in a
country, the various individuals of the brute
creation, its ancient and natural proprietors,
become less numerous, and confined to nar-
rower limits. They shun the vicinity of the
usurpers of the soil, and fly to those retreats
which interest or convenience have left open
to them. The forests which bound the settled
parts of Upper Canada, still furnish an asylum
for a variety of wild animals : among which
are deer, beavers, otters, musk-rats, hares,
bears, wolves, foxes, racoons, porcupines, mar-
tins and squirrels.

la—

Deer were formerly very numerous, and
large lierds were met with in every part of
the province ; but they are now scarce in the
immediate neighbourhood of the settlements,
and are seldom seen within a distance of six
or eight miles of them. The Indians, how-
ever, supply the markets with venison, and
it is usually bought at 3d. and 4id, a pound.

When those artificial or superfluous wants,
which have been introduced into the world by
luxury and refinement, cannot be sn})plied
without having recourse to cruelty, we have
but little satisfaction in reflecting that they
are beneficial to mankind.

The beaver, the most inoffensive as well as
the most sagacious of the brute creation, is
pursued with avidity by the merciless savage
for the sake of its skin ; and, with far better
pretensions to civilization and economy than
its inhuman persecutor, it becomes his victim,
because it is defenceless. Yet the Indian can-
not with so much propriety be accused of
cruelty as the European nations, his instigat-
ors, who have adopted the fur of the beaver
among their principal ornaments. Their ra-
pacity has nearly untenanted the forest of

4''

:'}

these intereating animals ; their embankments
or dams, which still remain, are the only
vestiges of that industry and ingenuity which
existed in the province previous to its occu-
pancy by the Europeans.

In the choice of situation, and the construc-
tion of these dams, the beavers exhibit proofs
of contrivance and skill, which man, with all
the boastod superiority of his reason over in-
stinct, would find it difficult to surpass. The
course of the most rapid streams is arrested ;
precautions are used against sudden inunda-
tions : places of security against attack are pro-
vided, and the means of retreat secured: store-
rooms for provisions are prepared ; and, when,
settled, the utmost cleanliness, regularity, and
good order prevail in the community. Man,
the lord and tyrant of the creation, discovers
with savage joy the establishments of this in-
offensive race, and attacks them with relent-
less fury. Unmindful of their plaintive cries,
he destroys the peaceable and unsuspecting
inhabitants, because pride and fashion have
stamped a high value on their furs, sparing,
with avaricious mercy, a small number to pro-
pagate the breed, in order that he may the

mis
\r\]y
liich
:cu-

more readily find victims for his future ra*
pacity.

A good beaver-skin will fetch in this coun-
try from 21. to 50^. sterling. These animals
feed on the bark of trees, &c. ; their tails,
vi^hich are large and flat, are eaten as a pecu-
liar delicacy.

Otters are not very numerous, as there has
long been a great demand for their furs.

The musk-rat bears a great resemblance to
the beaver in its manners and appearance ;
but is not more than one-fourth part of the
size of that animal. It erects its habitation
among sedge, and other aquatic plants, in the
shallow parts of lakes, and in creeks where
there is but little current. These dwellings,
like those of the beaver, are not constructed
\\ ithout considerable labour and skill. They
rise iw a conical form from the bottom of the
lake or cix^ek, where the water i oven or
eight feet deep, and are frequently three or
four feet above its level, and ter. or twelve
feet in circumference ; appearing like islands
in miniature^ and lying in groups. They are
formed of bunches of sedge and coarse grass
mixed with mud, which the animal collects

■* f;r';

i^ i,

■

with its mouth and feet ; and they are so
strongly cemented or clotted together, that
they are opened with difficulty. The musk-
rat is eagerly sought after by the Indians, as
well for food, although it is not considered by
others to be eatable, as for the sake of its skin,
which is sold for fifteen pence. The fur smells
strongly of musk.

The hare of Canada is of a species differ-
ing essentially from that of England. Its size
is between the hare and common wild rabbit
of that country ; and in its appearance and
habits, it participates of the nature of both.
Its colour in November (the only month in
which I have seen it) is like that of the Eng-
lish wild grey rabbit : its head, ears, and fore-
legs also resemble those of that animal. Its
hind legs are much longer, in proportion to its
fore ones, than those of the Enghsh hare, so
that it runs awkwardly and with difficulty :
for this reason it is always found very far in
the woods, within a short distance of thick
cedar swamps, so as to be near a place of re-
fuge. It has very large, spreading feet. Its
flesh is not white, nor so dark as that of the
English hare, and its grain is very fine. The
5

so
^hat
isk.

:in,

lells

fer-

skin is thin and tender ; and although the fur
is thick and fine, it is of but little value. It
is found sitting on dry leaves, or under the
Ijole of a fallen tree, generally near swamps,
which are thickly covered with cedar or ta-
marack. It feeds in winter on moss and the
young shoots of trees.

Bears were numerous when Canada first
began to be peopled by the Europeans, and
were destructive to the hogs and grain of the
settlers. But their numbers have been greatly
diminished by the demand for their furs ; and
they now scarcely find a refuge in the thickest
parts of the forest. The Indians track this
animai in the snow with unerring perse-
verance ; and having discovered its letreat,
v/hich i» generally vmder the root, or in the
hollow of a tree, they dislodge it by fire. As
soon as the bear make its appearance, it is
shot or killed with axes. The bear is not na-
turally ferocious or wild, and will never attack
a person unless when provoked, or in protec-
tion of its cubs, of which the female has t\f o
at a time, and which she will always defend
with the utmost obstinacy and fury ; at other
times, a person may pass a bear within a few

;r!

HI.

t;i'

paces without danger ; and they may be
driven, like hogs, out of a plantation of Indian
corn, k full grov/n bear will weigh in autumn,
when it is fat, from 220 to 260 pounds : the
flesh is eaten, and the hams are highly es-
teemed, when they are properly cured. A
I^ear's skin is worth here from 20s. to 40^.
sterling, according to the quality of the fur :
this is best when it is thick and long, and of
a glossy black colour.

The following anecdote relates to a cir-
cumstance which took place a few years
since in this province. A person cross-
ing the bay of Quinte in a small skiff, disco-
vered II bear iii the water, tiiid rowing- to it,
he aimed a blow at its head with an axe. The
bear warded off the blow with its paw, nrA
threw the axo into tlu» lake ; then ca nbitig
into tlie vskiir, to the no small terror of thti
boatman, it seated Itself (|uietly at one end,
and was taken to the shore, wlw^re it was
killed by sevrrul persons who were assembled.

Wolvi's harbour in the most impenetrable
recesses of tht forest, and make their appear-
ance so seldom in the settlements, that many
eld inhabitants of the country have never seen

f. )'■

one. They sometimes kill sheep and young
cattle ; but by a little precaution on the part
of the farmer, their depredations are easily
prevented. The females will frequently co-
habit with dogs ; and they are in fact rather
a species of wild dog than real wolves; of
whose courage and ferocity they appear to be
in some measure divested.

There are four species of foxes in Upper
Canada. The black fox, the fur of which is
valuable, is scarce : the red, the grey, and
the cross fox, commonly so called from its
having a black streak across the shoulders,
and one along the back. Although foxes are
numerous, they are deterred by dogs from ap-
proaching thr settlements, and seldom destroy
the poultry, when necessary care is taken of
it. A red fox's skin sells for 4s. sterling.

Domestic dogs and cats are very numerous
here. The dogs are of a mongrel breed,
and better adapted for the protection of tlio
houses and farm-y .rds than any other purpose.
Good water-spaniels would be serviceable heiv
in shooting wild ducks.

Racoons are inoffensive, except that they
will enter the fields of Indian corn, in troops

of eight or ten, to feed upon it. When dis-
turbed in these depredations, they ascend trees
with considerable agility, and are easily shot.
They resort to hollow trees in the day-time,
and live in them during the winter, making
their appearance again late in February ; the
warmth of the sun then enticing them out of
their habitations. These animals are easily do-
mesticated. The females breed in hollow
trees, and produce five or six young ones. A
full grown racoon will weigh twenty pounds ;
and the flesh is considered to be good. The
skin sells for from 1^. 3d. to 2s. 6d. sterling.

The porcupine feeds upon roots and vege-
tables, frequently entering the plantations of
Indian corn. Like the racoon, it will climb
trees, and dwells in recesses under their roots
or in their cavities. Its flesh is eaten by the
Indians ; and they use its quills for ornament-
ing baskets, shot belts, kc.

The Martin. This elegant little animal
abounds in the forest, and j)reys upon squirrels
and mice. Its skin is in great request, on
account of the beauty of the fur. Those of a
dark colour are most esteemed ; and muffs,
caps, tippe^ts, &cc. are made of them. A

martin's skin sells here for about 2j. Qd, ster-
ling*.

There are five kinds of squirrels in Upper
Canada ; namely, the large grey squirrel, the
black squirrel, the common red squirrel, the little
striped squirrel, and the small flying squirrel.
The first-mentioned species is scarce. It is
as large as a common sized cat, and so ex-
tremely shy and active, that it will evade the
pursuit of the keenest sportsman.

The black squirrel is as large as a ferret ;
the fur is of a jet black. Like the grey squir-
rel, it is very active, and not easily overtaken
in the woods. When domesticated it is re-
markably gentle and playful ; running loose,
and associating with dogs and cats, and fre-
quently going to a consideiable distance from
the house, to which it will always return of
its own accord. The flesh of these squirrels
is good. They are the prey of mai cins.

The red squirrel resembles that species
common in England: it feeds upon beech-
nuts, acorns, butter-nuts, &c. When the
butter-nuts are fit for gathering, these squir-
rels climb the trees, and strip them of all
the fruit ; they then descend and convey it to

•i

■d

their habitations for winter provision. More
than a bushel of these nuts are frequently-
found in a hoard belonging to a pair of squir-
rels. Sixty of these animals have been shot
by one person in four hours.

The little striped squirrels swarm in the
forests, and near the fields of Indian corn ;
the cobs of which, although bigger than
themselves, they will carry and hoard up in
large quantities under the roots of trees, &c.
for winter store. These beautiful little ani-
mals enliven the woods of Canada. They are
not more than half the size of the common
red squirrel ; have a black stripe, edged with
white, along the ridge of the back, and one
along each side; and their tails are about four
inches long, with short bushy fur.

The small flying squirrel is about the size of
the species last described. In theVoloux% and
the softness of its fur, it resembles the long-
tailed field-mouse of England ; the back and
upper part of the web being of an ash colour,
and the belly and under part of the web milk
white. The fur is as smooth and as soft as
velvet. It leaps from tree to tree with great
swiftness and agility; taking its flight from the

Lore

itly

[uir-

Ishot

the
torn ;
than

highest branches of a tall tree, from which it
will reach another in a descending direction,
at a distance of from thirty to sixty feet.

Serpents. In the territory of the Mohawk
Indians, and to the south-west of York, near
Lake Erie ; it is said that there are rattle-
snakes* I cannot contradict this report ; but
settlers with whom I have conversed on the
subject, and who have been thirty years on
the borders of Lake Ontario, have never even
seen one ; and it is certain that this noxious
reptile is no where found between Quebec and
Kingston, or between the carrying-place at
the head of the bay of Quinte and York.
]Mr. Grece, in whose opinion and information
the utmost confidence may be placed, says,
that there are no venomous reptiles in Cana-
da ; and in numberless excursions through the
woods, I have never seen any, or heard of any
having been seen by the oldest inhabitants; so
that I am fully convinced that there either
are none, that they are extremely scarce, or
confined to very limited tracts. There is an
abundance of snakes from two to three feet
long, vulgarly called " garter snakes." They
are very active, and so inoffensive that the

i !

I i

1 !

'• i

r '

settlers scarcely ever destroy them. There is
also a species of water-snake, equally inoffen-
sive ; but vipers, scorpions, or centipedes, there
are none.

It is said that the bogs of this country, which
are a fierce and ugly race of animals, are very
destructive to seri)ents. It is reported likewise
that a small island in Lake Erie was so in-
fested with rattle-snakes, that even the Indians
durst not set foot upon it ; and that a person
who purchased it, bought a great number of
hogs and landed them upon it, by which the
snakes were entirely destroyed. This story
may or may not be authentic. 1 have seen a
pig seize a garter-snake and eat it voraciously:
it is well known that the fat of the hog is a
remedy for the bites of venomous reptiles ;
and it is very probable that even the poison-
ous fangs of the rattle-snake will have no ef-
fect on this animal, defended as it is by a mass
of fat.

There is a variety of the feathered tribe in
Upper Canada. The species most numerous
are the partridge, wild duck, and pigeon.
Pine partridges abound in the forests. In its
appearance and habits this bird partakes of
5

m-
re

the nature of the partridge, grouse, and phea-
sant; and it may, perhaps, with more propriety
he ealled the American pheasant. In the
southern states of the republic it has that ap-
pellation, in order to distinguish it from a
species of quail, which is termed there the
partridge. The male is as large as the ring
or stock-dove, common in England. The
feathers of the tail are seven or eight inclies
long, and it elevates and spreads them out in
the same manner as the turkev. It has several
long feathers of a deep purple or glossy black
colour, on each side of the neck, which it can
raise after the mannor of a ru(F. It has also
three or four long, pointed feathers on the top
of its head, which it can elevate so as to form
a crc t. The plumage on the back ind ^^ ings
resembles that of the English partly 'o^e ; that
on the under parts is mottled. The feathers
of the tail are a mottled grey, with a black
bar, half an inch broad, across tb.^ir tips, the
extremities of which are grey. The female is
considerably smaller than the male, and its
plumage and appearance are not near so
handsome. These birds fcco upon beech-nuts,
buds of trees, and the coa ♦ of pines. They

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Corporation

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WEBSTi;iC,N.Y. 145)20

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are never found in the fields, but abound in
the thickest parts of the forest, generally in
cedar swamps, or among young hemlock trees
(a species of pine,) in their vicinity, or near a
road. They are shy and artful, except when
hunted with dogs trained to the diversion,
when they will perch upon trees, and, with
their necks extended and crests elevated, look
steadily at the dog which is barking at them
below, until the sportsman approaches quite
close, or near enough to shoot them. When
eight or ten are discovered on a tree, if a pei'-
son kill the one which sits below the rest, he
may shoot the whole of them afterwards, as
they will not endeavour to escape. They are
often found sitting on the ground., or on fallen
treet. In the spring the males perch on old
logs, and make a drumming noise by striking
their wings together, so loud as to be audible
at a considerable distance. The female pro-
duces from eight to sixteen young ones at a
brood. The flesh of the pine partridge, or
American pheasant, is very white, and has a
peculiarly fine flavour, superior, it is thought,
to that of the English partridge and pheasant.
These birds run swiftly, and will frequently

elude the sportsman by concealing themselves
(when running) behind old logs. Persons
have killed from twenty to thirty of them in
a few hours.

Pigeons are extremely numerous from the
latter part of April to the middle of October.
Their plumage is blue, and in size and ap-
pearance they bear a very great resemblance
to the blue pigeon common in English dove-
cots. Immense flocks of them visit the settled
parts of this province. A gentleman here
told me that he once, after harvest, caught
with a net, at three hauls, thirty-two dozen
in an afternoon, out of a flock of, perhaps, 150
dozen. Their flesh is good.

Wild geese are numerous; as are wild ducks
of several species. They abound in the lakes,
particularly in Rice Lake, where they feed
upon the rice, from which their flesh derives
an exquisite flavour. That species called the
black duck, has dark brown plumage, with
glossy feathers in each wing. Six of them,
which were killed at one shot with a musket,
weighed in the feathers and entrails nineteen
pounds.

Humming-birds frequent the gardens in

E 5

i: i'

ill

is;

great numbers during the summer months ;
and, like the bee, they derive their subsistence
from the flowers. They are the smallest of
the feathered tribe, yet nature seems to have
compensated them for their diminutive size,
by having bestowed a peculiar beauty and
elegance on their plumage and appearance.
In their habits they are restless, and in their
tempers extremely imtable and impatient.

The rivers and lakes of Upper Canada
abound with a variety of fine fish. The small-
est streams are full of trout ; and every year,
in the months of October and November, vast
quantities of salmon are caught with spears,
in the rivulets which empty themselves into
Lake Ontario.

In Rice Lake there is an abundance of very
fine pike ; to which the settlers have given the
Indian name of maskalungi ; every year, in
the month of April, great numbers of these are
caught with spears. Two men go out in the
night in a boat, having a small iron grate,
termed a jack, projecting over on one end of
it, in which a fire is kept buraing : the fish
are thus seen at a considerable depth; and
forty or fifty, weighing from six to eighteen

pounds each, are frequently caught by two
persons during the night.

The forests of Upper Canada consist of
pine of several species ; oak of two kinds,
ash of two kinds, elm, white and red cedar>
larch, called here tamarack, beech, sugar-
maple, bass, hickory, lime, birch, aspen or
white poplar, and alder; with iron wood,
walnut, butter-nut, cherry, elder and plum
trees interspersed.

Pines are not found on the best soil ; they
are scattered in groves throughout the forest,
on light and sandy land, overtopping the rest
of the trees by thirty or forty feet. The hem-
lock-pine grows in general near creeks. The
average height of the white pine here, from
the root to the topmost branch, is 120 feet ;
but it very frequently grows to the height of
160, and sometimes of 180 feet; and the
largest are from nine to twelve feet in circum-
ference.

The hemlock is the most beautiful of the
pine species. Its elegant dark green foliage,
and light, spreading branches, together with
the young trees springing up in rows along
the remains of the fallen trunks, appear as if

av-v^T f'^T'™^-^

'FipjVW<llJ!,.Hl

84)

\ .

nature designed her work, like a fairy scene,
to excite our admiration. These trees seldom
exceed 100 feet in height, or three feet in dia-
meter.

The red or Norway pine grows in some
districts, and is found interspersed in groves
of white pine.

The white oak of Canada produces acorns,
which eat nearly as well as nuts.

The black ash grows on flat and moist
ground, and makes excellent rails for fences,
being durable in its nature, and easily split
up.

Elm, beech, sugar-maple, bass, and hickory,
are a sure criterion in ascertaining the quality
of land in Upper Canada. Tracts which are
wooded solely with those kinds of trees, are
invariably fertile, rich and productive. Beech
affords the greatest quantity of ashes for
making pearl-ash, and, next to maple, is the
best fire- wood.

The sugar-maple has a great affinity to tlie
English sycamore, the '* acer magnum " of
Linnssus. Its leaves and capsules are similar
hi shape to those of that tree, but smaller.
Its bark is not so smooth, nor its branches so

large or expansiv <?. It grows to the height
of from seventy to ninety feet ; and the trunk
is frequently without branches to the height
of fifty feet. Excellent sugar, beer, and wine,
are made from the sap of the maple-tree;
and the following directions for making them
are copied from the Utica Almanack for the
year 1819.

" The sugar-maple.'^The maple not only
*^ affords an excellent sugar, but a pleasant
" molasses, an agreeable beer, a strong and
" sound wine, and an excellent vinegar.

" The following receipts for making each
** of them have been obtained from persons
" who have succeeded in the manufacture of
" them, and are earnestly recommended to
" those citizens of the United States who live
" in the neighbourhood of sugar-maple trees.

" To make Maple Sugar. — JMake an incision
"in a number of maple trees, at the same
" time, in the months of February and March,
" and receive the juice of them in earthen
" or wooden veissels. Strain the juice (after
" it is drawn from its sediment) and boil it.
" Place the kettle directly over the fire in
'* such a manner that the flames shall not play

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around its sides. When it is reduced to
a thick syrup, and cooled, strain it again,
and let it settle for two or three days ; in
which time it will be prepared for granulat-
ing. This operation is performed by filling
the kettle half full of syrup, and boiling it a
second time. To prevent its rising too sud-
denly, and boiling over, add to it a piece of
fresh butter or fat, of the size of a walnut.
You may easily determine whether it is suf-
ficiently boiled tu granulate, by cooling a
little of it. It must then be put into bags,
or baskets, through which the water will
drain, so as to leave it in a solid form. This
sugar, if refined by the usual process, may
be made into as good single or double re-
fined loaves, as ever were made of the sugar
obtained from the juice ofthe West India cane.
" Maple Molasses, — This may be made in
three ways : First, from the thick syrup
obtained by boiling it after it is strained for
granulation : Secondly, from the drainings
of the sugar : Thirdly, from the last drain-
ings of the tree (which will not granulate)
reduced by evaporating to the consistence of
molasses.

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Maple Beer* — To every four gallons of
water (while boiling) add a quart of maple
molasses. When the liquor is cooled to blood
heat, put in as much yeast as is necessary to
ferment it. Malt or bran may be added to
this beer, when agreeable. If a table spoon-
ful of the essence of spruce is added to the
above quantities of water and molasses, it
makes a most delicious and wholesome
drink.

" Maple Wine. — ^Boil four, five, or six gal-
lons of sap (according to its strength), to which
add yeast in proportion to the quantity you
make. After it is fermented, set it aside in
a cool place, well stopped. If kept for two
or three years, it will become a pleasant
sound wine, in every respect equal to the
second class of wines imported from foreign
countries. This wine may be rendered fra-
grant by the addition of a little shred mag-
niola root, or any other aromatic substance,
" Maple Vinegar* — Expose the sap to the
open air, in the sun, and in a short time it
will become vinegar.

" By these receipts large quantities of each
of the above articles have been made in the

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" frontier countries of New Hampshire, M as-
" sachussets, New York, and Pennsylvania."

The sugar-maple is also in general use for
fire-wood in Upper Canada, as it burns more
steadily 9 and, from the spirit which it con-
tains, more briskly than any other timber.
The varieg^.ted kind, or curled and bird's-eye
maple, makes handsome furniture.

The cedar-tree grows in swamps and on
the borders of rivulets : it rises to the height
of from 90 to 110 feet, tapering gradually to
the top. The largest are three and four feet
in diameter. The branches bend downwards
from the stems. This elegant tree is an ever-
green, and its foliage is like that of the lignum
vitae. The wood is exceedingly durable, and
well adapted for buildings and fences.

Of the bark of the birch-tree the Indians
construct their canoes ; they also make bas-
kets, and other utensils of it.

The hickory-tree grows to the height of
eighty feet. It is a species of walnut, and
produces nuts, somewhat smaller, but equal
in quality to those of that tree. The wood
is tough, and makes the best handles for
axes. .

The butter-nut tree is likewise a species of
the walnut, which it greatly resembles. The
nuts are larger than those of the English wal-
nut tree ; the kernels are sweet and well fla-
voured. These trees grow in abundance in
most parts of the province.

The hazel abounds in many districts.

The wild cherry-tree produces a small black
fruit, not exceeding in size the largest black
currants, and, like them, growing on fruit-
stalks from a long foot-stalk. These trees
abound in most parts of the province, and
grow to the size of the largest apple trees.
They are in general literally loaded with
fruit, which is of an agreeable quality, al-
though it has rather an astringent taste, and
it makes a good preserve. The stones are
large in proportion to the size of the cherry.

Wild plums, of a good quality, abound in
the forests ; and excellent preserves are made
of them.

Currants and gooseberries also grow spon-
taneously in the woods, and the former are
cultivated to very great perfection in the gar-
dens. Wild vines also flourish here, and the
grapes have an agreeable flavour.

The other wild fruits arc cninljcrrlts, bil-
berries, mamaberries, and strawberries ; the
latter grow in very great abundance in the
meadows and woods, and are e(iual to those
produced in our English gardens.

The apple-tree thrives as well in this pro-
vince as in any i)art of the world. The or-
chards seldom fail of producing an abundant
crop, and the fruit is of an excellent quality.
Great quantities of cyder are made ; the price
last year (1819) in the market at Kingston,
by the barrel, was 9(i. a gallon, including the
cask.

Peaches are very plentiful on the borders
of Lake Erie ; they are sent from those dis-
tricts to the lower parts of the province, and
were sold last year at Kingston for Sd» a
dozen.

The climate of Canada is very favourable
to the production of melons, water-melons, and
cucumbers; all of which arrive at the greatest
perfection, and are abundant throughout the
province.

Pumpkins and squashes are also plentiful.
The former afford an excellent vegetable, as
well as a nutritious food for cattle and pigs.

hil-

the
tho

lose

They are grown amongst the Indian coni,
and ahnost every farmer raises several wag-
gon loads of them annually. Molasses of a
very good quality are made by boiling the
pumpkins ; and this useful article of domestic
consumption is manufactured at no expense,
and with so little trouble or difficulty, that
there are but few families who do not make
considerable quantities of it every year. Beer
and a good preserve are also made from pump-
kins.

Potatoes, parsnips^ carrots, beets, turnips,
onions, cabbages, beans, peas, asparagus, and
all other vegetables, are also produced by
every farmer in this country in the greatest
abundance, and of the best quality.

There is not a greatvarietyof plants in Upper
Canada. Several kinds of shrubs and flowers,
which are propagated in the English gardens,
here grow spontaneously in the woods ; as baU
sam trees, the dwarf sun-flower, everlasting
Michaelmas daisies, columbine, gentian, &c.

Sassafras and winter-green are abundant in
the forests.

The white or natural clover (the Irish
shamrock) appears, like the strawberry plants

Viii...

to be indigenous to the soil: it forms the
^rincij^al pasturage in the cleared 'parts of the
province ; and the paths through the forest,
with the soil round the roots of trees which
have been overturned, are covered with this
beautiful, rich, and luxuriant vegetation.

■

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the
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this

CHAPTER VI.

General Appearance and Climate of Upper Canada-
Scenery— Observations on the Inhabitants— Indians
— General Remarks, and Advice to Emigrants— Con-
clusion.

Upper Canada is a country of vast extent.
Previous to its settlement by the Europeans,
it was one entire and uninterrupted forest.
Within the last forty years towns have been
built, roads made, and considerable tracts of
land cleared and cultivated.

The general fertility of the soil is such,
that the settlers have been amply remunerated
for their labour and privations. After a long
sojourn in a desert, they have at length, like
the Israelites, emerged into a land of plenty,
where they are surrounded with every com-
fort and convenience.^ t^ -
The stranger who travels rom Montreal to
York, is agreeably surprised at finding him-
self every where in the midst of rich and fer-
tile fields, which but a few years before were

J it

a forest. He sees around him the neat and
convenient habitations of the settlers. The
hand of industry is every where visible to him ;
he hears the sound of the axe at every step.
The inroads of the fire arrest his attention ;
and he contemplates with pleasure the future
prosperity and importance of a country, which
has every natural advantage to favour and
cherish it.

From Montreal to Kingston and York, the
great west road lies within a few miles of the
River St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario; some-
times it is close on their borders. The country
in its vicinity, for the whole distance, nearly
480 miles, is under cultivation ; except in
some few townships where the proprietors,
neglectful of their own interest, and that of
the community, have been dilatory in making
improvements. But these uncultivated tracts
bear only a small proportion to those which
are cleared. The farm-houses and cottages
are generally within half a mile of each other,
and there are inns at convenient distances.

Atonetime the traveller passes through a nar-
row strip of cleared land ; at another, through
tracts half a mile or a mile square, in a high

state of cultivation. He every where sees
the vestiges of recent clearance, in the half-
burnt and branchless trunks of trees which
have been left standing ; and in the stumps of
others, which have been cut off three feet
above the ground, with which the fields are
studded. At every half mile or mile he crosses
a beautiful stream of pure and limpid water
(for this country is intersected by the finest
rivulets in the world), on which is a grist or
saw-mill. He is surrounded by fields of wheat,
and of Indian com, intermixed with the lux-
uriant gourd. On either hand his prospect is
bounded by the thick and variegated foliage
of the forest ; except where the majestic St.
Lawrence, or the light green expanse of the
Ontario, meets his view through the trees.
Above him is a clear and azure sky ; he
breathes a salutary and pure air ; the pine
partridge, disturbed by his sudden appearance
in its haunts, springs up and perches near
him ; the humming birds sport amongst the
flowers which border the road ; and flocks of
pigeons, and the blue jays, woodpeckers,
robins, and others of the feathered tribe, en-
liven the scene. ' ■' -.iil- ..•■{ \r

it-

Canada, perhaps, has been represented to
him as a gloomy and impenetrable forest,
the abode of savage beasts of prey, or of
Indians, even exceeding them in ferocity.
Perhaps he has been told that it is locked
up by frost for seven months in the year,
or buried in snow ; and he may have been
influenced by these false or malicious re-
presentations. He will, therefore, be agree-
ably surprised at meeting with the very
reverse of such a deformed picture; at see-
ing a country of an aspect agreeably undu-
lated, watered with fine streams, and possess-
ing a soil as rich and productive as the most
fertile parts of the Old World ; at finding
that the stately and beautiful forests are so
free from underwood and projecting branches,
that he may take his horse at full speed
through any part of them ; and that there
are no noxious beasts of prey, no venomous
reptiles, and no wild Indians, to molest him.

The inhabitants of Upper Canada consist
of British and Americans, with several fami-
lies of German, and some of French extrac-
tion. From this mixture arises a great diver-
sity of manners and customs in the province*

■

But as the emigrants from the United Stai:es
form by far the greater moiety of the people,
the rest are, in some measure, compelled to
conform to their habits and usages.

The emigrants from che States are of two
classes ; namely, th.*^ .loyalists who came in
after the revolutionary war, and those who
have come in since the late war with Great
Britain, to purchase, or to beg^ the land which
they were unable to conquer. They who ob-
tain grants of land by petitioning for them,
are first obliged to take the oath of alle-
giance to the British government.

Englishmen, who have in general been ac-
customed to subordination, and habituated to
a decent, orderly, and respectful deportment,
find a difficulty in reconciling themselves to
the manners and customs of the former re-
publicans, who have a certain vulgarity and
contemptuous arrogance, united to ignorance
and illiberality, about them, which is disgust-
ing. The conciliatory Scotchman, like the
Vicar of Bray, can so arrange his conduct as
to make it suitable for all changes and circum-
stances. The inoffensive but improvident
Irishman caimot well disguise his feelings,
and he acquires but little popularity.

There is one truth which the English and
Irish emigrants will easily discover. It is that
the Americans of all classes, old and young,
women as well as men, detest and hate them :
they have imbibed that hatred with their
mother*s milk, and it has become deadly and
rooted. I could pursue this subject farther,
but I shall only at present observe, that the
English, &c. who have lately come into the
province, begin to form societies amongst
themselves : each party may, perhaps, in time
overcome its prejudices, and unanimity and
benevolence prevail amongst them.

The old inhabitants of the country, as well
as the late emigrants from the States, are
possessed of a great many excellent qualities.
They are industrious, ingenious, prudent,
peaceable, and just. If benevolence, hospi-
tality, and generosity, are locked up in their
breasts, yet they have but few vices : refine-
ment will, perhaps, at some future peiiod de-
velope all.

Emigrants from Europe will do well to
pursue their method of clearing and cultivat-
ing the land. The Americans are, without
doubt, the best axemen in the world. They
cut down the largest oaks with a small heavy

axe, of ai peculiar make, not exceeding six
inches in length and four in breadth, weighing
five pounds and a quarter ; it costs here 15^.
sterling* The avei^-ge height of the forests
of Canada is from eighty to ninety feet ; the
groves of white pines overtopping the rest by
thirty or forty.

As the settlers encroach upon the forest,
the Indians, the original proprietors of the
country, retire from them. The Mohawks,
a partly civilized tribe, still retain their pos-
sessions on the Bay of Quinte. All are
peaceable and inoffensive, and beneficial to
tlie settlers rather than troublesome or inju-
rious to them. They are ingenious, and ma-
nufacture baskets, corn-shovels, mats, brooms,
bowls, chair-bottoms, and a gi'eat many other
articles and utensils which are useful to the
settlers, and which are procured from them
for a very trifling remuneration. ^ *

To conclude. This beautiful and abundant
country affords the means of subsistence for
every person. Common industry, exerted on
its rich and exuberant soil, will enable every
one to acquire not only the necessaries of
life in profusion, but also many of the luxuries
of it. Farmers, husbandmen, tradesmen, and

100

mechanics, will all have before them the
most flattering prospects of success. Farms
of all sizes are always upon sale in every
part of the province, and a person may es-
tablish himself comfortably here with a pro-
perty of one hundred, or even oijifty pounds.

Laboureii are paid from Jour to six shil-
lings a day, besides their provisions. Tailors,
shoemakers, and other mechanics, are wanted
in all parts of the province; and they who
have come over are prosperous and success-
ful, even beyond their expectations.

If persons have a sufficiency of money
o^ly to pay their passage over, they need not
fear but that their industry will enable them
to live in comfort. A farmer possessed of
500/. or 1000/. sterling, would be able to
purchase a farm, with a good house, bam, and
other buildings upon it. ' *

The climate of Upper Canada is extremely
agreeable and salubrious ; the heat in summer
is not oppressive, nor t< ^c cold in winter se* .
vere. The winter lasts about five months.

C Baldwin, Printer,
Hott ■fUI(e>StrMt, Ldndoa.

THE END*

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