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AND THE NORTHERN Montreal and Quebec LAKES. *4^ i m T^^^^g iii^iij-tiWiii AMERTOAN HOUSE, HYDEPARK, VT. .0^ This popular Jind commodious Hotel is located in the Shire- Town and gco^rapiiical and business centre of Lamoille County, in the very heart of the grandest Green Mountain Scenery. Its location gives it a command of scenic views on- ly second to Mount Manslleld itself. It has large airy rooms and will conveniently accommodate one hundred guests. It has an elcgnnt hall and spacious parlors. It is, at the present, terminus of the P. & O. II. R. about 80 rods from Depot, to and from which passengers are always conveyed free of cliarge. A good livery is connected with the house, and the tourist will find the proprietor always ready to serve him for mod- erate pay. Charges for transient persons two dollars per day, with liberal deductions to Season boarders. To persons, or families, wishing to spend the Season, or a few days, in a quiet, wholesome home, where they may re- ceive kindly attentions, for reasonable pay, this house is be- lieved to offer many inducements— No Bar. See further notice of locality on page 177. References and further infor- mation cheerfully given. E. B. SAWYER, Proprietor. 4-3 O S c o d o O 0) i N E, • VT. n the Shire- )f Lamoille 1 Mountain ic views on- j airy rooms guests. It ;he present, n Depot, to f^ed free of the tourist m for mod- ' day, with season, or a ey may re- liouse is be- 5ee further rther infor- ►prietor. ) • r-t • o B I c d o O « 73 0) O d •4 < i )R. Dess i host lor's and and .ted, eral this ^ac- that ► the l_ TEL. ir. ■ii«gi»8» illlilJ, i J i ly| l l '> ii . iiiii wiiwtipi ii i i a i Mww r^ ID p; ID *• o if Id It #1 tt o CD UJ i < \ o t? t- «-> O ••-4 05 --S ^ d o S d d o t^ d 1^ t3 d d d d o u 0) 75 d a a d d O M d 4-> d d o -d d o fee 2 d '^ oj t^ d J* *^ -^ ^ ^ ^ ..do O :8 d 0) > d d o M (D \7 !» d i^ -< B do? « i s J3 d -d HOW) S 2 ^ r a, sh • i-i ^^ a> d d S % -9 d « SP a <»j o a o d o r ® ^ *^ d ^ d d S o S o a XI 53 0) d T art '^^ Ol hH ^ ^°^ .d V, d O i/» ^ Or. B a> 0^ Qj S ^ d o u CO u X] bo d d Q - d 4-> CO 0) u o O d -a O r^ f^ ,^ -P fl ° a ^ d s. H 7) 'd 2 S iA o '-> ^ i xi d d o u d -d d bo d • -^ CO .3 d d c8 d X I .o u -d ^ § S w W .g a> c» d .2 2 o ^ I ^ O 1 < 4«» 2 a o -2* 35 8 30 S- '2, I as 8 50 AME RTCAN HOUSE. ■1 •'■ r- . » -^ -■.v,?«!-f.'m simtrr:- . T<, Sel ..n ha tei am chi wi en i lib "/v ,«*«^ // c N cei lie no WBb.- HOTELS. ST. LOUIS HOTEL, ST. LOUIS STREET, WII.I.IS RUSSELL, - - - PROPRIETOR. This Hotel, which is unrivalled for size, style and locaUty^ in Quebec, is open through the year for pleasure and business travel. It is eligibly situated near to, and suiTounded by the most delightful and fashionable promenades, — the Governor's Garden, the Citadel, the Esplanade, the Place d'Armes, and Durham Terrace — which furnish the splendid views and magnificent scenery for which Quebec is so justly celebrated, ana which is unsurpassed in any part of the world. The proprietor, in returning thanks for the very liberal patronage hitherto enjoyed, informs the public that this Hotel has been Enlakged and Refitted, an(^ can now ac- commodate five hundred visitors; and assures them that nothing will be wanting on his part that will conduce to the comfort and enjoyment of his guests. CORNER ANN & GARDEN STS., UPPER TOWN, QUEBEC. This modem built Hotel is now open as an auxiliary to the ST. LOUIS HOTEL, 49- TERIUS inODEBATi:. WILLIS RUSSELL, Proprietor. Concord Coaches mn to and Ik'om Brandon Station. Telegraph ottice cuuuuciuii with the Uuuae. hot lull description ace page 185. talion. ADVERTISEMENT. il^ki m d 9 a le page 185. -CriTZTED STATBS AND Proprietors' Office, 30 & W Court Square, BOSTON. Afjcncy Offices at all prmcipal Stations on the following Roads: Boston, Clinton & Fitchburg; Boston, Concord & Montreal ; Central Vermont; Cheshire; Concord; Concord & Clare- mont; Concord & Portsmouth ; Connecticut & Passumpsic; Contoocook Valley; Fitchburg; Fitchburg & Worcester; Framingham & Lowell; Manchester & l^awrence; Mansfield & Framingham; Massawippi Valley; Missisquoi; Monad- nock; Montreal &Champlain; Montpelier & Wells River; Montreal & Vt. Junction; Nashua & Lowell; NorchernN. H. — Bristol Branch; Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain; Portland & Ogdensburg (Vermont Division) ; llutland & 15urlington ; South Eastern ; Sullivan; Suncook Valley ; Stanstead, Shef- ford & Chambly; Troy & Greenfield; Vermont «& Canada; Vermont & Massachusetts — Brattleboro Branch, Turner's Falls Branch; White Mountains ; Worcester «& Nashua. FORWARDED BY OTHER EXPRESSES To all Accessible Parts of the World. -TT 4 ADVERTISEMENT. TRADE MARK : •'THE CONCORD HARNESS." DO YOU WANT A NEW HARNESS? If so, before you buy, consult, either in person or by letter, with JAMES R HILL <& CO. CONCORD, N. H., The only makers of the celebrated Which are the best to be had. All our Harnesses are made by hand. Every part of each Harness made IN OUR OWN SHOP. Every Harness made FROM THE BEST SELECTED STOCK. Every Harness HAND-STITCHED, CUSTOM-MADE and WARRANTED TO BE AS REPRESENTED. IF YOU WANT A Fine Carriag^e Harness^ A FInv! Buffiiry fflarnesw, I A Fine Driving- Ilarn«Mi«i, A Fine Hai-ii. or f^oacli Harness, A Good Exprt'SM Ilarnessy .. . A Cvood Store Harness, A Good Livery Harness* A Good Tt^am Harness, A C>ood Business Harness, A Strong Work Harness, or A Harness off any kind. Bend us your ordora at once or cotne in person and see ns. Every Harness is niade un«ler our own personal supervision. The test of every climate from Eu8t to West, and from between North and South proves them to be unequalletJ. Be sure and see us or write to us before you buy. YOU CAN SAVK MONEY AND GET A BBTrBll HARNESS. For prices, circulars, or any information concerning Harness, Address JAMES R. HILL & CO., Concord, N. H. ■See remarks about " THE CONCORD HARNESS," in Descriptive CircnlAr, pages 44 and 45. Be sure and read it. 3 363'^" KEYES' HAND-BOOK o U OP Northerg Pleasure Travel: TO THE WHITE AND FRANCOKIA MOUNTAINS, THE NORTHERN iAKES AND RIVERS, MONTIS EAL, qUEBEC, AND THE ST. LAWRENCE AND SAGUENAY RIVERS. HOW TO REACH THEM BY PLEASANT ROUTES. VIA THE MERRIMACK AND CONNECTICUT VALLEYS, AND CONNECTING LINES OF TRAVEL. •y Harnese is ite from Xatit 'qualleJ. Bo lONEY AND " Oil Nature ! a' thy shows and forms To fueling, pensive hearts hue charms ! " It is a fresh and rare land, A rugged, bold and bare land, A loyal, true and rare land— This mountain land of ours." Burnt. BOSTON: GEO. L. KEYES, PUBLISHER, 4 WILLIAMS COURT. 1874. . 1 fr T PREFACE In this '• age of travel" the Guide Book becomes as useful in the portmanteau of the tourist as the lexicon in the library of the scholar ; and, for this reason, we need not apologize for the issue of this Hand Book. That it may prove a reliable guide to such as wisely spend their season of recreation among the hills and by the lakes and streams of the Gigantic Commonwealth, or extend their trip into the Canadas or along connecting ways of travel, has been the aim of the author. Not pretending to rare literary merit, and hoping we have found the happy medium between thedry details of simple directions and tabular statements, and the prolixiiy of elaborate works, we grate- fully acknowledge the aid of the valuable and friendly written works of Starr King, Willey, Eastman and others, and give our little work into the hands of the travelling public who have so liberally pat- ronized a previous edition, ^ THE AUTHOR. Boston, April 1st, 1874, Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1874, by Geo. L, Keyes, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. THE CLAREMONT MANUFACTURING COMPANY, PAPER MAKERS, PRINTERS AND BINDERS, CLAREMONT, N. H. CONTENTS. PAQI. Distances, Elevations and Hotels. CHAPTER I. Routes, &c 17 CHAPTER II. Northern Pleasure TuAVEL.. 39 CHAPTER in. Lake Winnipesaukee 50 CHAPTER IV. Northward from the Lake.. 60 CHAPTER V. Franconia Range 80 CHAPTER VI. White Mt. Range 94 CHAPTER VII. From Mt. Washington, or the Crawford House, to North Conway or the Glen House 1 16 CHAPTER VIII. No. Conway and Surround'gs. 125 CHAPTER IX. Around Gorham 131 CHAPTER X. Historical and Descriptive.. 134 CHAPTER XI. Northward to Canada— Mon- treal 137 CHAPTER XIL Quebec 149 CHAPTER XIII. Saguenay River 161 CHAPTER XIV. Northern Vermont 168 CHAPTER XT. Portland & Ogdensburg R. R. 176 CHAPTER XVI. Wells River to Montpelier AND Westward 180 CHAPTER XVII. Saratoga to Mountains 184 CHAPTER XVIII. Niagara Falls to White M'ts. 196 MAP of Routes to the White Mountains, Mon- treal AND Quebec 1 " The White Mts., with List of Summer Boarding Houses and Hotels 39 •* The Saguenay and St. Lawrence Rivers. . 160 ** The Routes to Saratoga and the White Mountains 180 Time Tables 224-229 '■ f 7 INDEX. PAOX. Alton Bay, N. H 58 Aminonusuc River 99 Artist's Falls 128 Ascent of Bald Mountain 85 " Copple Crown 57 " Moosilauk 66 " Mount FiafayAtte 88 " Mount Prospect 63 " Mt. Washington 95, 99 •• Mt. Washington by rail... 100 " Mt. Wash, by carriage r'd 100 " Mt. Willard 112 " "Owls Head" 174 " Red Hill 55 Ashland, N. H 61 Bartlett 118 Basin 89 B., C.& M. R.R 47 Beecher's Falls Cascade 110 Bethlehem, N. H 69 Boarding Houses and Hotels, see maps. Boston, routes from to Mts 30,35 Boston & Maine R. R 35 Boston to Canada, routes 30, 35 Boston, Ms 37 Bradford, Vt Brandon, Vt 184 BurlinRton, Vt 183 Caldwell 190 Campton, N. H 65 Cannon MountHin 84 Cascades, Franconia Mountains 90 Cathedral, Natural, No. Conway 127 Cathedral of Notre Dame. 143 Cathedral. Montreal 143 Central Vermont Railroad 184 Centre Harbor, N. H 53 Cherry Mountain 78 Chucorua 129 Colebrook, N. H 78 Concord, N. H 41 Concord to the Monntains, route... 45 Conway, N. H 129 Conway, North 125 Conway, through the Notch 116 Copple Crown Mountain 57 Crawford House 108 Crawford Notch HO Crawfords, The 135 Crystal Cascade 122 Levil's Den 128 Diana's Bath 128 Distances 11 Dixville Notch 79 Down the St. Lawrence 145 Dunmore, Lake 185 Eagle Cliflf. 83 Echo Lake, Franconia Notch 81 Echo Lake, North Couway 127 ElevatioiM 16 PAOI • Emerald Pool 121 Fabyan House and Station 71, 98 Falls, Ammonusuc 99 •• Artist's 128 " Gibbs 110 " Glen Ellis 122 " Harvard 92 " Montmorenci 155 " on Avalanche Brook 114 Flume, Crawford Notch 113 " Dixville Notch 90 ** Franconia Notch 90 " House, Franconia 90 Framingham, Mass 24 Franconia Mountains 80 Franconia, N. H 68 Franconia Notch 81 Garnet Pools... 121 Glens Falls 188 Glen House and Glen 119, 120 Gorham, N. H., and vicinity 131 Gorham to the Notch 132 Grand Trunk Railway 78 '^reatGulf. 123 juildhall, Vt , 78 Hartford, Conn 26 iiOli vvftto* •••••••••••••■•••*•••••• 19 Hills' Harnesses 43 Historical and Descriptive 124 Hotel Tablet 13,14 Hydepark, Vt 176 Imp Mountain 131 Island Pond 137 Island Pond House 1.37 Islands of Winnipesaukee 50 Jackson, N. H 118 Jefferson Hills 57 JefTerson, N. H i:» Kiarsarge House 125 K iarsarge M t 1 26 Lachine Rapids 145 Laconia, N. H 43 " Lady of the Lako " boat 51 Lake Chaniplain 191 Lake Dunmore Huut^e 185 Lake George 190 Lake Memphrenmgof;, trip on 172 Lake Village, N.H 48 Lake Winnipesaukee * 50 Lancaster, N H 73 Lawrence, Masi? 35 Lincoln, N. H List of Boarding Houses, see maps. Littleton, N. H 67 Long Island Sound 19 Lowell, Mass 30 Lunenburg, Vt 73 Magog. Lake Meniphreraagog 175 Manchester, N. H 33 Meredith Village 60 INDEX. 9 PAOE. lerrimack River 40 liddlebury. Vt 187 lontcrtliii Old Home 156 lontpelier, Vt 179 lontreHl 138 lontrenl llmisn 140 [oosehillock Mouiitai n 66 luuut Adams 123 " A^hbhIz llonst*.... 70 " Chiy ♦' Hayei. 131 •• Jfffersoii 123 •' MiuliHon 123 " Mftnsfi.'M 177 " Muusfield HoutJO 182 " Moriali 131 " Peabody 99 " Peinigowa.SHet 93 " Prospect " Surprlso.... 132 *• Wasbington 99 " " carriage ruaJ.. 100 " " House 104 " " in winter. 108 " •• Railway 100 " " Steamer " " Snrnmit view.. 106 " " tbe descent.... 102 " Wllley 107 Mt. Willard, drive to stimniit of ... 112 Norwich Udo of Steamers 20 New Haven, Conn 25 Newport, U. I 28 Newport, Vt 171 New York City ami vicinity 17 New York, roiituH from 20-27 Niagara Falls route 196 North Conway. N. 11 125 North Conway, to and from 125 Northumberland Junction 78 Norwich, Conn 21 Notch, Dixville 79 Notch, White Mt, and vicinity 110 Old Man of Mountain 85 Pnssumppic River Railroad 168 Peabody River 121 Pemigewasset Hou-^e 61 Pemigewa*<8et River and Valley.... 65 Pequaket Mountain or Kiarsarge.. 126 Phenix House, Concord 44 Pilot Hills 131 Pinkham Notch 119 Plains of Abraham 158 Plymouth, N. H 61 Pool, Franconia Notch 92 Preface 6 PVofile House and vicinity 69 Profile Mountain and Lake 87 Profile (stone face) 86 Providence, R. 1 28 ProTidence, routes from 28 PVOI. Queboc, city of 149 Randolph Hill 131 Red Hill 55 Richmond, P. Q 138 Routes, all rail 27 Koutes, boat and rail 24 Rutland, Vt 181 Saco River 117 Saco Valley 113 Saguenay River and route 168 St. Jobnsbiiry. Vt. 165 St. I..awrenco Rivt-r 144 Saratoga route 189 Sawyer's Rook 113 Silver Cascade 117 Sound Steamer. « 15 Southeastern Railway 176 Springfield, Mhhh 23 Squani Lake 63 Starr King Mountain 70 Steamer "Lady of the Lake" 60 Stowe. Vt 181 Thornton. N. H on Ticonderoga 191 Tip- Top House 104 Tuckerman's Ravine 122 Twin Mountain llouije 97 Van Ness House, Uurlingtnu, Vt... 194 Vergennes, Vt 187 Victoria Bridge 141 Views from Muosebiilit, k Summit.. 66 " Mount Belknap 49 " Mount VViishington.... 104 " Mount Pequaket or Kiarsarsre 128 " Prospect Hill 63 " RedHill 55 View of the Profile 86 View from Lafayette 88 " Waumbek llou.se 78 " Fabyan House 72 Warren, N. H 66 Waterbury, Vt 181 Waumbek House . 76 Weirs (Lake Station) 49 Wells River, Vt 179 Wells River & Montpeiior K. K.... 178 Whitefield, N. H 72 White Mountains geiieal view.... 94 White Mountain Ilou.-'e 99 White Mountain Notch 110 White River .lunctiou Willev House Ill Willoughby Lake 170 Wing Railway 69 Winnipesaukee Lake 50 Winter above the Cloud.-^ 108 Wolfeborough 57 Wolfe, General 159 Woodstock, N. H 65 Worcester..... 96 INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. Booktellers, Publishers and Ira- porters 225 Card and Glazed Paper - • 234 Dry Ooods, idilks aud Gloves « Zil Dictiunaries - - - 236 237 Engraviugs .... 238 Furs 231 Grand Trunk Railway, 3d p. of cover. Ga'axy 236 HOTELS. American House Ist inside cover p. - 217 207 - 207 204 - 20G 208 4th p. of cover. 2U5 Bangor House Buck's Hotel - Belvue House Colonnade Hotel Dixon House Fitch's Hotel • Fabyan House Grant's Hotel - Kiarsarge House Lake Dun more House Lynde's Hotel National House Old Orchard House Parker House ■ Preble House 2 210 212 202 212 2{X) Queen's Hotel - Rockingham House Sanborn House Sinclair House Spring Hotel St. Louis Hotel Town's Hotel The Grand Pacific Wassaunikeag House Wachussett White River Hotel • Windsor House • 201 212 ■ 210 213 1 215 203 16,16 214 212 ' 208 Harper's Publications - - 240 Harness Manufacturers - - 4, 230 Jewelers - - - - . 231 Montreal and Boston Air Line 218 221 Marble DeaJerg .... 2J3 Nursery 237 Organs 229 Providence and White Mts.Ex.Llne. 22-2 Quebec and Gulf Port S. S. Co. - 19'J North Conway, West Ossipi-e and Centre Harbor Stage Line - 223 Scribner's Monthly - - 239 Tailors 232 U. S. Canada Express - . 3 RAILWAY GUIDE. THE TRAVELER'S HAND BOOK TO ^ i All Railway & Steamboat Lines of North America. COURECTED AND ISSUED MONTHLY. Giving Lists of General Officers, Latest Time Tables, Complete Lists Stations, AND TICKET FARES OP ALL ROUTES. Illustrated by a Mugniflcent Colored Map of the United States and Canada, and by Sp«-cial Maps of all Principal Railway Lines. It also gives the Population, as shown by the Govenmient Census, of every Railroad and River Town within the United States and Canada, with a full aiitl accurate Description of their Geographical Situation, Chief Objects of Interest, Commercial Iui[.ortance and Hotel Acconimodationa. SOLD BY NEWSDEALERS. PRICE 40otS. BAND.McNALLT & CO., 79 & 81 Madison St., Chicagro. rs. • u - 201 - 212 • • - 210 • m 213 • 1 • 215 • - 203 " • 16,16 - - 214 - 212 - - 208 . 240 J - 4, 2:50 - 231 lir Liue 218 221 • » - 233 . 237 • 229 tfts.Ex.Line. 222 \. S. Co. - 199 ssipee ai id Line - 223 . 239 • - 232 * • 3 Io'b. DOK America. Lists Stations, nd Canada, and i Population, iver Town curate ;t8 of tions. t , Chicago. ELEVATIONS ABOVE SEA LEVEL, FKANCONIA MOUNTAINS. FIET. fount LafAyette 5,000 lount Cannon, or Profile 3Iouutaiu 3,500 lilank 4,6;»6 lerry Mountain 3,670 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. fount Washington 8,285 fount JefTerson 6,7(10 fount Adams 5,800 fount Munroo 5,400 fount Madison 5,4(X) fount Clay 5,400 fount Frankli 4.900 fount Plea^ant 4,800 fount Clinton 4 200 fount Jackson 4,100 Mount Webster 4,000 fount VVillard 2.576 Mount Willey 4.300 Mount Carter 5,000 fount Moriah 4,700 fount Hayes 2,5<>0 ■>equuket or Kiarsarge (at North Conway) 3,307 >liuci>rua 3,358 fount Proai)ect (near Plymouth) 2,968 »d Hill (near Centre flarbor) 2,508 popple Crown Mount (near Wolfeborough) 2,100 lAlpine House — Oorhani 800 Bethlehem— Village 1,450 [Ji-awford House 1,920 Fabyan House 1,551 iFinnie Houso 1,431 lOlei) House 1,632 iPmfile House— Franconia Notch 1,974 jWilley flouse— White Mountain Notch 1,336 [Bfount Resolution 3,400 Giant8 Stairs 3,500 iMHrsbfieli (or Ammonusuc Station )--foot of Mountain Railway 2,615 jPiiikham r^ 219 232 293 318 394 414 206 214 224 232 232 236 242 199 187 J^ HOTEL TABLET. Place. Andover, Mm»., Biingor, Me., Boiiton, Mus!)., it i> ti « Bellows Falls, Tt., .1 u Burlington, Tt., It >• Caldwell, N. Y., Ceutru Harbor, N. H., II It Clrcngo, 111., Clinton, Mass., Colebrook, N. H., Ooucord, N. H., i> tt Coiry, Pa., Detroit, Mich., Dover, N. II., Elkhart, Ind., Fort Edward, N. Y., Glens Falls, N. ¥., Great Falls, N. H., Hampton, N. H., Hart.ord, Vt., Ilydepark, Vt., Island Pond, Vt., Lake Village, N. H., Lawrence. Mass., Laconia, N. II., LennoxTille, P. Q., Louisville, Ky., Lowell, Mass., Lyndonville, Vt., Manchester, N. H., Meredith Village, N. H„ Montreal, P. Q., Milford, Mass., Montpelier, Vt., New Bedford, Haas , Newbury, Vt., Newport, Vt., Newport, N. H. Newburyport, Masg., Northampton, Mass., North Stratford, N. H., Philadelphia, Pa., Pittsfield, N. H., Portland, Me., Name. Mansion House, Bangor House, Clarendon Hotel, American House, Crawford House, Towns' Hotel, Island House, American House, Van Ness House, Ft. Wm. Henry Hotel, Senter House, Moulton House, The Grand Pacific Hotel, Clinton House, Parson's House, Phenix Hotel, Eagle Hotel, Empire House, Russell House, New HampHhire House, Clifton House, St. James Hotel, Rockwell House, Grant's Hotel, Union House, White River Hotel, American House, Island Pond House, Mount Belknap House, Franklin House, Laconia House, Buck's Hotel, Gait House, Merriraac House, Walker House, Matiunul House. Elm House, Montreal House, Milford House, Bishop's Hotel, Parker House, Spring Hotel, Memphremagog House, Phenix House, Ocean House, Fitch's II. tel, Williard House, Colonnade Hotel, Washington House, Preble House, Prop, and Man. Charles L. Carter. 0. M. Shaw. J. Pickering Draper. Lewis Rice & Son. Btumcke tt Goodwin. Chas. Towns. II II H. H. Howe. D. C. Barber A Co. J. Roesslo & Son. J. L. Huntress. 8. P. Emery. Geo. W. Gage, J. A. Rice. 1. W. Cook. E. F. Bailey. J. R. Crocker. John A. White. C. R. Do Burgh. Witbeck A Chittenden. W. J. Walker. Henry ClHrk. J. N. Moore. Rockwell Bros. Edmund Grant. Smith & Whittier . C. W. Pease. E.B. Sawyer. Bartlett t Stone. D. B. Story. T. W. Huse. Elkins Bros. P. P. Buck. J. P. Johnson. Emery & Nute. G. B. Walker. Willey A Head, G. M Burleigh. Decker & Co. Hapgood Brothers. H. H. Bishop. Bullock A Brownell. R. W. Chamberlain. W. F. Bowman. J. H. Brown. J. P. S. Wescott. C. F. Simonds, £. II. Fulsoni. John Crump. T. B Tucker. M. 8. Gibson ft Co. H! ih 7 14 HOTEL TABLET. Portsmouth, N, II., Port Huron, Minb., Providence, R^l., Quebec, P. Q., Rocbestor, N. II., Kocklmid, Me., Rutluuil, Vt., 8nco,.Me.,0bl Orcb'd DMcb SHiiMltury, Vt., S.indy Hill, N. Y., gberbrouke, P. Q., ti it South Vernon, Vt., Bpringfleld, Mass., Stockton, Mo., Fort Point, St. Jobnnbury, Vt., Stowe. Vt., Toronto, Ont., Vergennee, Vt., WaaiiinKton, D. 0., WTatch Hill. R. I., Westerly, R. I., Winooskl, Vt., Windnor, Vt., Wolfeborouph June, N. 11. Wulfeburougb, N. H., WilHamstown, M.-isi., ■Wincbenrton, IMiies., WelU Riv«r, Vt., AVbifo River Ju ction, Vt West Rutland, Vt., Rockingham II>iu«e, Huron H'MiMe, Central House, St. liouis Hotel, Russell House, Dodge's Hotel, Lynde's Hotel, Herwick House, ,Old Orcbai'd House, Luke Dunniore Ilotol, Coffet) House, Continental Hotel, Sherbmoke House, South Vernon House, M tasuHoit House, , WiissunikenK House, Avenue Houxo, Mt. Mansflcld Hotel, Queen's Hotel, btevens House, The Arlington, Plimpton House, Dixon House, Stevens House, Windsor House,^ ,Siinborn House, Pavilion Hotel, Glcnden Hotel, Belvue House, Or<'ylock Hull, Moiiiidiiock House, jJiUKtion House, Barnes House, a. W. A J. S. Pierce. UeofKO Kuill. liopliiiis & Hears, Willis Russell. >■ >> J. T. Podge. 0. A. Lviicb. M. K. Hotcbkina. K. C. Staples. JR. P. Hitchcock. N. W. Clark. P. A. Caniirntid. W. Chttuiljeriain. D. L. Pi iest. M. A E. P. Cbapin. D. W. Ranlet Oeo. H. Aldrii-h. N. P. Koeler. Tbo. McGiiw. S. S. Oiiiiios. T. Roessiu & Son. A. S. Plimpton. A. S. Plimpton. J. W. Ceiley. J. H. Simonds. J. W. Prescott. K. Stanton. J. L. Pcjivey. Daniel Horn. Streefer & Swift. IF. A. Crocker. M. G. Slack. A. T. & O. F. Parron. J. H. Iluzelton. WHITE MOUNTAIN HOTELS. Bethlehem, N. H., ti .1 Carroll, N. H., (( ti Conway, N. H., It It Fraconia Notch, N. II., Jefferson, N. II., Lancaster, N. li., Littleton, N. II., ti it Mt. Washington Sum't, North Couway, N. II., M M « it 4t II Plymouth, N. IL, West Ossipee, N. H., Warren, N. IL, Qorham, N. H., Sinclair House, Prospect House, Mt. A7j;nssiz House, Fabyaii House, White Mountain House, Twin Mountain House, Crawford House, Conway House, Pequaket House, Profile House, Waumbeck House, Laiicactur House, Oak Hill House, Union House, Mt.Washington, Houf^e, Kiarsarge House, Randall Houne, Intervale House, McMillan House, Sunset Pavilion, Miison Hotel, PeraigewasBot House, Bear Camp House, Moosilauk House, Glen House, J. A. Durgin . Geo. W. Phillips, Cyrus E. Bunker. Liudsoy, French A Co, Rounsvel A Co. A. T. A 0. F. Barron, it II It L. H, Eastman, D. E. Pendexter. Taft A Greenleaf. Merrill A Pluisted.; B. H. Coining. Geo. Fair A Co. W. JennisoD. J. W. Dodge. Thompson Son A Andrews. J. T. Randall. Stephen Mudgett A Sons. John McMillan. M. L. Mason. F. II. Mason. C. M. Morse, J, L, Plummer. W, A C. R. Miliken. m )n A Andrews. HOTELS. 15 Wassaumkeag Hotels D. \V. RANLET. STOOK:TOI^^, IMS- In latitude 44 degrees, is a promontory near the head of Pen- lobscot Bay, twenty-five miles from Bangor, which commands [a wide and picturesque panorama of both water and moun- tain scenery, and is also of considerable historic interest. Fort Point Has long been a popular place of resort, and the recent con- jstruction of the spacious and elegant Hotel offers extra inducements to the health and pleasure-seeking public. The Hotel has a frontage of one hundred and fifty feet, contains one hundred and twenty-five large size, high studded and well ventilated rooms elegantly furnished, extra wide halls, with all the modern appointments of Gas and Steam Heat, Salt and Fresh Baths, Billiards, Bowling, Telegraph Office, Livery Stable, News-stand, etc., and was especially designed for the comfort of families and children, while its ff feV i € ■ rr ! i il iiH! i;;;!' 16 HOTELS. yerandas, promenade roof and cupola, command the whole] panorama of Bay, Islands and Mountains. A short distance from the hous^ is Odam'g Ledge, The home of a numerous family of Seals, whose disportingsj are an unfailing source of amusement. The advantages for bathing, sailing and fishing (with ex- perienced fisherman or skippers) in the beautiful bay, or driv- ing on fine roads along the shore, for hunting the abundance I of game in the ac^oining forests, together with the shade! trees or groves, fine croquet grounds, entire freedom froml frogs, mosquitos, flies and other pests, accompanied by anl even temperature, with the best water on the coast, and pun\ drainage, form a combination of inland and seashore attrac- tions rarely met with. The facilities for obtaining fresh pun\ milk, berries, eggs Jtnd vegetables from the adjacent country,! and clams, lobsters, salmon and other varieties of fish from! the water every day, are such as to make the table peculiarlj| attractive. The proprietor's hotel connections in New York, the West,! and the past five years at the White Mountains, N. H., hel trusts will be a sufficient guarantee of his ability to properlyj care for the comfort and amusement of his guests. Tlie special rates for families for the season will be exceed- ingly low. Routes from Boston via Sanford's Independent Line Steam-! ers, at 5,00 p. m., on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fri- days. From Bangor and Fort Point to Boston, on Mondays,! Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Via Eastern Rail [ road to Portland, thence by Portland, Bangor and Machiasj Steamboat Co., or via Maine Central to Bangor, thence by! Ross & Howell's boats, which ply daily. Boat landings within] thirty rods of the house. ID. "W". I?^.A.lTlLiET, Proprietor.! Post Cffl'Jo address, FORT POINT HOTEL, STOCKTON, ME. nd the whole CHAPTER I. THE START FROM NEW YORK *•''••■■ nil be exceed- Many who gather from the south and west to the grand centre of the nation, as well as actual dwellers therein, will choose to take the initial stage of their journey to rural and summer retreats by boat-trip through Long Island Sound, on some one of the safe and palatial Steamers running in con- nection with the railways from Norwich (Allyn's Point,) Ston- ington, Newport, Providence, or Fall River — through-lines to the mountains, or the interior. These Steamers leave their piers, on North or Hudson Riv- er, at 5 o^clock, P. M., and make passage through East River in the waning day, giving an agreeable change from the crowded streets and heated pavements of the great City, to the coolness of an open harbor and the breath of sea-breezes. The observing stranger will find this trip one of rarest in- terest from the start. The rounding of the southern point of the city, the glance down the magnificent bay, the circular and frowning walls of the Battery, Castle Garden, Govern- or's Island, with the batteries of Castle William, and the many points of interest, which were the centres of life and business in the New York of foraaer years, are here observed. Through East River the magnificent Steamer ploughs its way, crcdsing the line of numerous ferries which connect the first city in the United States with Brooklyn— the third in population — soon to be joined to the metropolis by an im- mense Bridge already in process of building. h'ri i^ iiali 18 THE START FROM NEW YORK. The River, alive with a moving fleet of shipping, has, lying along its miles of water-front, ships and steamers from every quarter of the world, laden with the riches of every land, and the products of every industry. The bold Heights of Brooklyn, to the right, are crowned with elegant residences, while the Docks and Navy Yard — one of the great Naval Stations of the country — the islands, with the public institutions thereon, all form a scene which can but interest those to whom the sight is not made familiar < by daily observance. The stranger, who tarries in the city, will get his best view of the metropolis and surroundings from Trinity steeple, or a more distinct one from Brooklyn Heights. If he is interest- ed in art and modern improvement, he will tind in the Parks, Museums, Public Institutions and pleasure vf^sorts of this na- tional centre of business life, attractions lequalled else- where in the country. If, on the other hand, he is attracted by points of historic interest and old associations, he may visit the sites where Washington, John Adams, Alexander Hamilton and Aaron Burr lived in the early days of the Me- tropolis; where the Father of his country held his court, was elected President, and bade farewell to his officers. The graves of Alexander Hamilton, Commodore Lawrence, and many others of wide fame, are in Trinity Churchyard. He may, also, in summer, take pleasure trips up the wond- erful Hudson River on which its discoverer sailed of old, in the staunch *' Half Moon," under the firm belief that he had found the long sought passage to China. The grandeur of the Highlands along the banks of the Hudson is unsur- passed, and each headland and crag has its historic associa- tions or pleasing legends; for here the fine fancy of Irving wove his dreamy yet delightful tales. He may also take a sail down the grand harbor to Long Branch, or to the many suburban points of interest whicii cjinnot be here mentioned, even by name. But, returning to the boat on which we have taken passage;, and steaming on in stately strength through East River, past the extensive corrective and reformatory institutions on THE START FROM NEW YORK. 19 Blackwell's and Randall's Islands, the once perilous passage at "Hell Gate" is reached — six miles from New York, famous for the perils here encountered by the early Dutch navigators: this tortuous passage, which has since been a bar to commerce, will soon become a thing of the past, and yield to the force of genius and nitro-glycerine. At Throgg's Neck, thirteen miles from New York, com- manded by the guns of Fort Schuyler, you enter the waters of LONG ISLAND SOUND. This important inland highway for navigation between the national centre of commerce and trade anJ New England, is somewhat over one hundred miles in length, and, at its broadest, from twenty to thirty miles in width, and is navi- gable for the largest craft. The superior harbors are within the irregular outline of the northern coast, which is studded with important towns and cities and popular resorts. The pulses of the iron monster beat on through the night ; the prow steadily cleaves the waves, and the glimmering wake follows in dying perspective, whether you sleep or wake. There is rest for those who prefer it, and grandeur and beauty for those who appreciate the somber glory of the moonlit sea. Your choice of rail routes having been made, you will find your further progress fully described under the head of " Routes," laid out in the following pages. V f ill :l;;;i ii EOTJTE. From New York to Concord^ N. H. By Boat and Rail fkom New York by the Norwich Line of Steamers, via Worcester and Nashua. These fine boats, " City of New York" and •* City of Bos- li;i A VIA NORWICH. 21 ton," leave Pier No. 40. North River, at 5 o'clock, p. M., They have all the appointments and conveniences to be found upon the boats of any inland waters, passing in full view of the gi'eat city, the surrounding objects of interest and the suburban towns along the Long Island shore, more fully described in the opening pages. Passengers by this route in- cur little risk from storms or inconvenience^ from rough weather ; aiTiving at Allyn's Point at 4 o'clock, A. M. ; White Mountain Express train leaving at 6 o'clock, A. M. ; thence by the Norwich and Worcester Railway, with elegant parlor cars, which are not excelled, if eqalled, by those of any i*ail- way line, to Worcester — the heart of the Commonwealth, (receiving at this point the travel centreing here from con- verging roads,) and, after taking time for breakfast at the BAY STATE House, proceed by Worcester and Nashua rail- road, to Ayer's Junction, (connecting there with train from Fitchburg,) to Nashua; (connecting with through White Mountain Express trains from Boston,) and Manchester, along the valley of the Merrimack River, (receiving at Man- chester passengers from Portsmouth and the East, and from Boston via. Lawrence,) proceed, stopping only at important points, to Concord, Lake Winnipesaukee, Plymouth, (dining station) Littleton, (from here to Profile House by stage) Beth- lehem, Fabyan House station, (nearest to Mount Washington, and Crawford House at the Notch, Crawford House and Mount Washington House on summit of Mount Washington, or to Lancaster (stage from here to Jefferson Hill) and Northumberland — (junction with Grand Trunk Railway for Montreal or Quebec.) Note.— An Exprera train, connocting with this line of boats, ieaTea Allyn's Pt at 5 o'clock, A. M., giving a full night's rest on the boat, and proceeds, by continu- ous express trains, (piTlor cars run through) without delay to the Mountains. Norwich i:i at the head of navigation on the Thames River, thirteen miles from New London. The location is commanding, built upon the steep hillside, lying between the rivers which unite to form the Thames. The manufacturing portion of the town is in a valley enclosed by hills. Cottons, woolens, paper and ma- cliinery are the chief products. The territory comprised in the town was pur- chased of Uncas and his sons for the sum of seventy pounds. A large banking and insurance business is carried on at this place. The " Falls of the Yantic " are about a mile from its outlet, and should be visited by those who tarry here. K-i. iliil ii! i in: ■'■ ill '■■\ Ml ; i> m ill. ■ i! lil'ii H o o CO 8 <» <» ^'^ tn "^ (V |§ u ^ 0) o •t— I ^^ 5 =« 5 d o »o u o o d o 09 d -I --3 S3 e8 1^ d ^1 o t« d o a d e8 >» Xi e3 P>H d 03 u n a ■*-> Qi »"^ , 9^ P^ V} , Pi Q rr. s c o 4-< o S pa /-■ tn c <5 ^ ^ f^ 5*^ C ! - rt - *^ 1 '^ v-i : e- ^ .s >^ - ■» 1 *-i '^ : d i tn 3 PG - r-l -^ a «>« p ^ r It v^ W ^ to r a: 3 *!« c : — -A ^ •F^ t- ■•^ ■f- : ^" > J. - h^ }uebec. road, froc y Street, a a m C WMk' O • fH 1 ci B £ a IK O HHr "^^ 'J IH' r/i tiH He o (*^ EH ^ 0) Ef U} r^ ■ttl. ID ■>-> BBn ^ n HOEr ^ -M WKK ^ ^ ^HBi ''^ a HI ^. P4 iHNI r/1 • Ms ;:^ Pi H|| o v. M g JHHi' o -t- k OK. a S ' Ri ^ ■■ ^'^ ^ tRi c <. c;^ C .' "*^ rt - i > 1 r- ^f< - C (^ z ^ : u i =^ ^ : t» ». .- 03 ■ A o cc - J '-I i a ', *^ T it ^, W "^ - ll r-< to : ; c a: c : ' 4^ t, • , c S i 1 3 p^ " ■ o ^ d «H C ' J f^ W ^ i :; -4-^ «> . -*-> ^ . I: .rH •^-^ • r. ; < c/. - 'y. 32 m ! ! -ii mi ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE MOUNTAINS, Leave Boston by the Boston and Lowell Railroad, from ta magnificent new passenger st-cition. Causeway street, at I o'clock A,M. This new Passenger Station is the finest In NeJ England, and, perhaps, in the U. S. ; is complete in all its rangements for the comfort and convenience of patrons of tli line ; has fine reception rooms and restaurants ; is beautifJ and unique in the style of architecture, and rich and ornamea tal in material of construction. The roof being of glass, giva a pleasing and cljeerful light not often seen in buildings of tlij class, and dispels that depressing gloom which often shadov the waiting traveller. Leaving this station the stranger looks with interest to tli right upon historic ground in Charlestown, with the plaij shaft on Bunker Hill rising now and then into view; th McLean Asylum for the Insane at Somerville will also be nd ticed, and you pass on to Lowell over one of the oldest linej of railway in the country, and, in the new improved parlo and fine monitor top cars of the line, with no delays, excepij ing the necessary stoppages and for dinner, you take you journey to the mountains, by the express train, and are mad as comfortable as modern enterprise can make you, with thi added charm of a pleasant country on either hand as yoj thread the valley of the Merrimack. At Lowell the Concord river unites with the Merrimaclj furnishing the extensive water-power of this great manufactj uring site. Fifteen millions of capital are invested and fifteeif thousand people are here employed in the extensive mills. From Lowell, after receiving travel from Salem over thj Salem and Lowell railroad, and other lines (uniting here wita New York Express) via. Norwich or Fall River, you journey along the Merrimack to Nashua, another of the thriving citiei developed on the water-powers of the Merrimack, where m find the productions of the mills and shops not confined to tha specialty of cotton fabrics, but ranging over a wide list of the] useful and ornamental, the massive and the diminutive. , .. ^i^iw.^^. MONTREAL AND QUEBEC, VIA LOWELL. 33 m over thJ The Merrimao House, Lowell. Emery & Nute, Proprietors, is a new and first class Hotel. From Nashua there is little of special interest nntil Man- [iliestor is reached — the largest city of the old Granite State. ?lioiigh cotton manufacture may be considered the special teaturo of the products of Mancliester, yet the locomotive kvorks are of great importance. The Amoskeag Manufactur- ing Company have three millions of dollars in their business )f manufacturing steam fire engines, machinery, and a wide liversity of prothicts. Some ten miles west of Manchester iro the two considerable peaks known as tlie " Twin Unca- loonucks," said to be tlie first elevations seen by mariners ipproaching tlie coast, At the National House, opposite the Depot, those who tar- by in Manchester will find comfort and good cheer. The substantial stone dam at Amoskeag Falls, built in the Form of a half circle, will be observed upon the left as the train passes out of the City over tlie smooth and substantial roadbed of the Concord Railroad— one of the most impor- puit short trunk lines in the country — and with management l^vorthy of its importance. W. A. Tower is the President, md H. E. Chamberlain, Superintendent. 34 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE MOUNTAINS. liPl! The short ride to Concord is through the pleasant valley off the Merrimack, and past the improved water powers at Hookj sett (observe the sharp rocky " Pinnacle" to the left,) am Suncook; and from Concord northward, giving connection! at Weirs with Steamboat on Lake Winnipesaukee for CenI TRE Harbor (Stage and rail route from Centre Harbor tol North Conway.) Also from Weirs passengers go by boat tol Wolfeborough (rail route from Wolfeborough to North Cou| way). From Plymouth the Pemigewasset Valley Stage Route di| verges through Campton, Woodstock* and Lincoln to Franco- nia Notch and the Profile House. The train leaving Boston at IS o'clock noon, by this route) connects with the boat on Lake Winnipesaukee, at Weirs for] Centre Harbor and Wolfeborough, and continues to Plymoutli; also, (excepting in mid-winter,) night accommodation trulnl over the Boston, Concord and Montreal connects at Concord with the 6 o'clock trains from Boston, from Lowell Depoi running through to Plymouth, N. H., the same night, aii(l| continuing to the mountains next morning. :!iltl J^*... H KOUTE. From Boston to the Moimtains, Mo7itreal cmd QuebeCy VIA Lawkence. Leave the station of the Boston and Maine Raih'oad, in Hay- market square, at 7.30 A. M. As on the Lowell route, the view from the car windows, to the right as you leave the city, looks upon the Heights in Charlestown, and the shaft of Bunker Hill Monument — always an object of interest. This route for the first twelve miles passes through the net work of fine suburban towns and villages that have sprung up along the line of all important railways centering in the New England metropolis, and extending Avidor and in new localities as the years roll on. Somerville, Maiden, Melrose, AVakefield and Reading are fine towns. The union of this road with the Salem and Lowell is at Wilmington Junction. Twenty-three miles from Boston the fine old town of Andover is reached. Here is the Tiicological Seminary founded in 1807, for the purpose of providing a "learned, orthodox, and pious ministry." It is under Congregational auspices but not closed to others. The Abbott Female Seminary, Phillips' Acadamy (founded nearly a century ago), and the new Me- morial Hall, which will accommodate a free library, are of no- ticeable importance. The Mansion House is a good Hotel, C. L. Carter, Proprietor. Reaching the Merrimack, twenty-six miles from Boston, the fine buildings of the great cotton and woolen mills of Law- rence attract attention. Younger in years than most of the cities of New England, Lawrence holds an important place in I the production of cotton, woolen, and worsted fabrics, and the manufacture of paper. Nearly thirteen thousand operatives are employed, and twelve million dollars of capital are invested. The Boston and Maine Railroad here diverges to the eastward, on its way to Portland, and we continue by way of the Manchester and V fm\^" 36 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE MOUNTAINS, !Hi § Lawrence Railroad, to Manchester, and from thence to Con- cord, as described in the route via Lowell, and on to the Mount- ains. aiMO-M'HAi.ir-t% FuANKLiN House, T. W. Huse, Proprietor. Windham, on the Manchester and Lawrence R. R. is tlie point of intersection with the Rochester and Nashua Railroad, soon to be opened, and completing a new through line, from Portland to New York, directly across the country, without making the circuit of the Coast. This line is being hurried to completion. There is also, over this route, the 12 o'clock noon train from Boston for Plymouth N. H., connecting at Weirs, on Lake Win- nipesaukee, with boat for Centre Harbor and Wolfeborough ; and 5 o'clock night train from Boston running through to Plymouth (excepting in mid-winter), same as by the Lowell route, and continuing from Plymouth to the mountains the following morning. MONTREAL AND QUEBEC, VIA LAWRENCE. 37 BoRTOW . — Either going or retnrning from the Iftkes nnd monntainn, the stranger will wish to tarry for a short time in this good old city — the metropolis of New England. Philadelphia was a forost and New York an insignificant village long after Boston Iiad hecome an important commercial town. This ancient and hon- orable city lias, by natural growth, and by absorbing surrounding towns, become the fourth city in population in the Union, and is one of the first in point of avorage wealth and the culture and enterprise of its citizens. The old, revolutionary associations, the hallowed sites and many objects of in- terest in, and in the near vicinity of the city, attract the intelligent stranger. It is tiie second city in commercial importance in the U. 8., and, in the culture of its people, the extent and grandeur of its charities and institutions, and the solidity of its finances it has no rival. Among the many places and points of interest, which strangers will visit, are Fanouil Hall— the old cradle of liberty— the Old South Gharch. now use 1 as the Post OfHce, and under the shadow of which Franklin was born; the City Hail, witli the Franklin Statue, on School Street, the new Post Ofii e Building on Dev- onsiiire Street; Music Hall, with the Great Organ, off Winter Street, the Athe- iinnim, on Tremont Street; the Public Library ou Boylston Street, and the In- stitute of Technology on Commonwealth Avenue. The outlook from the cupola uf tiie State House is one of rare interest. The world renowned Boston Common with the "Old Elm" where witches wore hung, and beneath which Whitfield preached, an enclosure of 48 acres, is a spot more universally loved and resorted to by Bo:4tonians and New Englanders than any other, being easily reached from any quarter of the city. The modern Public Garden, an enclosure of 22 acres, adjoining the Common, with the artistic arrangements of its walks and pouds and fine statuary is worth a visit. In the Old Cemetery, on Copp's Hill, are the graves of Cotton and Increase Matlicr and others known to fame. In the " Granary Burying Grotind," on Tre- mont Street, arc the graves of a long lino of old colonial Governors, of the pat- riot Paul Revere; The famous patriot Statesmen John Hancock and Samuel Adams, and the parents of Benjamin Franklin. Bnnker Hill, in tlie Charlostown District, will be visited by all lovers of coun- try; the outlook gained by ascending the monument is one of the finest to bo found. While here, visit also the Navy Yard and Dock, important among tho naval .stations of the country. A trip to Cambridge, the site of Harvard College, where also may be seen the .olil "Washington liead-quarters, the noted Elm under which Wasliington as- sumed chief command, and Mount Auburn Cemetery, the resting place for the dead made attractive and beautiful by lavish expenditure and cultured taste. To the nnin of wealth, leisure and culture, perhaps no city in America has so many advantages as a place of residence as Boston, and no city in tlie country has. in its immediate vicinity, or, within a circuit of twenty miles, so complete a network of cities and towns of importance, desirable as places of residence, beau- tifi-.l a!id attractive in location and convenience of access. Summer excursions by steamboat to Hull, Hingham and Nahant, and trips among the islands and return, are made daily, from different points, and are patronized by the best of people. ; 5: ll ■! i J i i TW: 38 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE MOUNTAINS. In tho matter of IIotrls, Uoston hns mftny worthy of its fame. liii 'i . .i!i O w 1-4 The Amkuican House, Lewis Rice & Son, Proprietors, on Hanover Street is first ciasH in its tippointnients, central in location and managed by popuar and w«'ll known gcutlcinen. The IIevrkk House, Parker Housf, United States Hotel, (opposite Boston A Albtiiiy H. W. Station), tlte Commoxwealtif, St. James and Ci.arend i\ Hotels »iv Dinoiip, till' most central ami licHt niana^ed uf llie popular Hotels, witli others of, porhapf, equal merit, wliicli want of space forbids mentioning. O W » III hi M -^^ marton liunding Pafton ^} IVeat Burke ®^ Xj/ndonvilleo\ St.Johnabury Centre o^ St.John8bury o Fasswnpaie ® lOroveton J'une, W llpv .Vlelcher House Gnildhalli J^uneiiburgh <> Sumner 11^^' §'=^1 ' o£ LANCASTER Jiftncaster House ^i^ViQeri(ifm House H(;agter rse Uou WJiitefieldf ^ . , Dodges bbotts TIaisteds f, Jefferson ^Wiimbek House >59^ AJJ' .& .Vv6* Bariiet Mclndoes^^ Oak Hill House, Thayers Hotel, LITTLETON uniun House WingJRoad^m „ . _, ^^ ■^q\. TwinlHtJIouse If.Lisboni ZPlainfield'^ Franconia ' Sugar Hill Coosuo House WELLS RIVER'®' WOODSVILLi Ifewbury Smith; f^« ^nadford laverhilA ^XJMJEi \«l)/. TFarret\ © Summit . ^ .:F *fe I" Moo«U»uk ^"Ws^^ House jnion '..J W, <9''\'^ ^l^' fU\\\\' G/tjelevBi .^ ^^^'^ LIST OF HOTELS AND — SUMMER BOARDING HOUSES •ON THE LINE OP THE- Boston, Concord, Montreal anci White Mountains Railroad, Giving Location and number of Boarders each House will accommodate. OOMVZXillD BXymBMIiT FOB KBVII8' HAND BOOS. GUILDHALL, VERMONT. W. H. Hartshorn, Essex Holel 60 A. M. Wilder 15 LUNENBURG, VT. One mile from South Lan- caster. J. M. Lucas 12 Chester Dodge 8 Chandler House 25 Levi Barnard 10 S. T. Hale 10 DALTON, N.B. Sumner House 75 LANCASTER, N. H. B. H. Corning, F. Richardson, C. C. Wilder Stephen Eames B. F. Hunkin Charles Larkin Joseph Hopkins, W. J. Rowell, Lancaster House American House Williams Hotel Hillside Cottage 150 75 20 20 10 12 40 40 Plalsted House Hill House Sunnyslde House Maple House Mount Adams House JEFFERSON, N.E. Snenmilea from Lancaster. Merrill & IMuisted, Wambek House B. H. Plalsted, T. J. Bedell, Warren Hicks, Mrs. Bowles, John Cnunshaw, l;. A. Crawford Jharles Guile Moses and Gkorge Woodward \r, H. Crawford Woodward, Summer House Levi Slarbird WHITEFIELD, N. H. Wm. P. Dodge, View House J. S. Piske, M. H. Abbott, J. M. Aldrich Chas. Aldrich Cherry Mountaii^oose Whitefleld House LITTLETON, N. E. H. L. Thayer, Thayer's Hotel W. Jennison, Oak Hill House John Merrill Mrs. Cableigh JefTbrson Hosmer Miss Mattie Eastman Dennis Wheeler A. R. Burton Union House 200 100 75 25 25 75 25 60 25 15 25 20 60 SO 60 85 10 150 76 70 20 20 20 20 16 LISBON N. H. m CAMPTON, N. n. T. J. Simborn J. C. Bl.ilr Lucius Hannaford Three miles froii Plymouth. 65 60 10 CAMPTON VILLAGE, N. FL Eight miles from Plymouth. Clias. G. Webster 10 Timothy W. Mitchell SO Steplien I). Kinsman If Osmond C. FoAs 46 Suldon C. Wilder 20 William Thornton 20 Flank Chase 40 Charles Cutter 20 Dr. W. A. Smith 10 Fred'k A. Milchell 16 Geo. Foss 20 Merrill Greeley (IS miles) 60 THORNTON, N. H. Nine miles from Plymouth. William Merrill 25 WEST THORNTON, N. H. Ttoelve miles from Plymouth. Griiflon House 26 Union House 40 y WOODSTOCK, N.H. Seventeen miles from Plymouth. Isaac Fox 85 NORTH WOODSTOCK, N. H. Twenty miles from PlymouUi. Curtis Parker 26 Chandler Russell 20 William Dearborn 16 James Darling 10 Geo. Russell 20 LINCOLN, N. U. Tuienty-floe miles from Plymouth. Flume House, 150 BRIDGEWATEB, N. H. W. R. Webster D. M. Webster John B. Marston MEREDITH VILLAGE, N.H. J. P. Ladd PLYMOUTH V 'Pomigewasaset W House Vriilgewater ^'' AsMc igff^dHJll ;'//((v^ • '■■."/'"'(iiiHV- Ossipee t^oulton House ' -^Center Harbor^ )ter Jimae 4f^f> @iF THS ]V[otLqtkiq^I<^e f(e^on Jllm Bouse' JUereditK\ TewHIampton 0&1 IVeira Ji -OP- HAMPf SHOWING THE LOCATION OF THB ^^•omiSSnt Hotels, Rouses, WINN1Mm\ It.Belknl like Tittage ^viWiriard House ■ilMconia ^■Xaconia House r*3Irs.Taylors ' "Winnisquam House i'E.IHUon r^elmont CHltnanton AND THE ROUTE OF THE CO o p JE^o^e Concord /: onireHl d ^hite (ffauntuiifs ^mtrand ■WHICH Fonais the toONOORD pHORTE^T ^ ^ojST Convenient 1\oute Thereto. RMO.MoNallyJ - Grepleys 'sacojimay/liA mimwKimu.if. mont '^ Alton Bay ' CHlmanton ^ Rana,MoNally*Co.,M«p Engir»vtrt,Cnioago. H. L. Thayer, Tliiiyor's Hotel ISO W. It. Wnlisicr 10 ■ 18 ■ 10 ■ W. Jeiiiildon, Union Uoum 76 I). M. Wi'Imler Oak Hill rinuse 70 John B. Maritton John Merrill ao Mm. Cableigh Jeffi-nou Hoamer MUi Mallle Eusiman Dennia Wheeler 20 MKUKDlTn VILLAGE, N.U. I 80 SO 15 J. P. Lndil A Co., ProsiHJCt House G. E. Gihnnn Andrew Smith 60 ■ A. R. Burton 80 C. P. Towie £ ■ LI8H0N N. H. J. P. Norrls 20 M A. M. M'lore, Aminonoosiic Houm 40 G. M. Burleigh, Elm House SO ^ 4 tinan Olynn, Dubon Houa* M. UowleM 35 ■ 16 LACONIA, If. II. ■ A. H. Elliott 12 Laconia House 800 ■ K, W. Uartlett 20 Wlllard House ise ■ M.-8. E. M. Gleaaon 10 Mrs. Taylor's House 160 ■ C. E. McAlliater 26 WInnlsquam House 100 ■ sua A ft UlL L, N. a. Four nUUtfrom LUbon. LAKE VILLAGE, N. H. 1 Mr. Uoodnough 80 MU Belknap House 50 ■ Mr. Whipple 10 ■ Mr. Bowles 25 HOLDERNESa, N,n. Tkree milea from Aah- ■ Jason Comina 15 land. ■ J. A. Baker H Fit A yCONlA, N. B. Five milea from LUUeton. ■ Charles EiJsoa 80 \QILM ANTON, N.H. TenmiletfromTiltoru ■ Burt A Knight, Valley House 85 Cyrus Varney 1 Simeon tSpooner 85 John C. Baker I Ivory H. Glover 20 R. J. Varney ■ Win. H. Brooks 15 J. H. Drew ■ Ja-ion Coma 25 G. W. Hodgdon E. H. Goodnough 80 J. C. Marsh 1 Joel Spooner A Sou, Lafayette House 60 Mrs. E. Holbrook H Mrs. M. F. Shattuck 25 J. Blake 30 H D. K. Priest 16 Tad & Greeiilear, Profile House, \ I miles from BKLMONT. Six nUlen from TUton. ^M Littleton, or 28 miles ft-om Plymouth 450 J. Bodger 1 C. D. Bryant 1 BETHLEHEM, N. U. Sincliilr House 125 TILTON, N. U. J. Coffin I Maple Wood House 65 Mr. Dennis ■ Cyrus E. liunker, Agossiz House 65 A.Elliott 1 Geo. W. Phillips, Prospect House 1(10 Hiram Glines I Jus. K. Barrett, Howard House 60 William Clouph 1 Jus. K. Barrett, New House 65 Geo. Davis ■ Thomas W. Bean 60 Mrs. Knowlton ■ Eli.'^ha Swett 40 ■ Wm. (J. (Simpson 85 86 85 WOLFHOBOUGH, N. U. {Steamer.) Fifteen | James N. Turner Wm. U. Bunker miles from Weira, on Lake Winnipesaukee E. Stanton, Pavilion House 250 1 Sewell F. Winch 85 Geo. Kenniston, Lake House 100 1 Mis. Joseph Plummet 28 J. L, Peavey, Glendon House 150 1 Siineou U Thayer 25 Daniel Horn, Bellevue House 100 1 Thomas J. Spooner 20 Levi Ham, Glen House 1 Wil.son Beiin H. W. Wilder 18 35 J. B. Maniierlng, Prospect House John G. Cate ^ 1 Hyrou Bailey 14 J. B. Haines H HAVERHILL, N. H. John L. Haines 20 H Chas. G. Smith, Smith's Hotel 80 A. S. Lll)bey ■ Mrs. Allen bailey 15 10 Alfred Brown James J. Randall 20 H Perley Ayer Geo. W. Chapman Alden S. Cliftord James Woodward Miss Lizzie Sloan 16 10 10 8 Mrs. Mary G. Newell Mrs. Sarah A. Libbey John L. Meader Jas. W. Piper Moses Varney : 1 WABBEN, N. H, Chas, S. Parsons 20 1 Moosilaftk House 80 James Lovering 15 1 / raos Clement 10 B. Dlckerson 15 1 Kath. Merrill 15 1 PLYMOUTH, N. H. C. M. Morse- PemlRewasset House J SHchanan A Willis, Plymouth HouM W. G. Hull Dr. J. W. Preston Dr. Flanders Bben Smith 800 00 80 20 60 10 CENTEB HABBOB, N. H. (Steamer.) Ten milea from Wdra,on Lake WimUpeaaukee. J. L. Huntress, Senter House 150 Almon Benson 80 W. A. Page 2J S. F. Emery, Moulton House 75 B. F. Kelsea «> 88 ^ •i Th flr«t< Wfll Th k Alt ai«» Hi of, p^ iKWW' i^JiStSr^*?: J «»J*» ^t** ^ <^T i.**^ V!«^ J» ^ o or fc9> o o Fl m tr. n X m rl o B tf < l >Wt MWy» »MMi MjiM,tiriU K*i^^ ij CHAPTER II. NOKTIIERN PLEASUEE TRAVEL, NEW HAMPSHIRE. The ancient name of Now Hampshire, or of the old prov- ince which comprised it, was Laconia — so called by reason )f tile great lakes therein. It was enfeoffed to Capt. John ilason, witli Sir Ferdinando Gorges, Kt., (1629,) described in th(} grant as ** lying and bordering upon the great lakes of the [riqiiois and other nations ac^oining, extending back to the ;roat rivers of Canada;" and described in an English book )n America, published in London (1658), as *• having the Sag- ulahook and Myrameck rivers on the New-England sea- joast;" also *' the ff real lakes timt tend towards California and \he South Sea, on the west thereof.''^ " The air thereof is pure iiul wliolesome, the country pleasant, having some high hills full of goodly forests and fair vallies and plains of fruitful 3orn, vines, nuts, and infinite sort of fruits; large rivers, en- '^ironed with goodly raeatlows full of timber-trees." An act of the General Assembly, (1704,) made it the duty )f every householder within the several towns of the prov- ince, " to provide one good pair of snow-shoes, and moga- sheens, (with penalty for default,) and to replace and repair the same, the better to enable them to pursue the enemy in winter." 40 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. The Granite Commonwealth has been described as a good place to emigrate from ; and, perhaps no State in the Union retains so few of its enterprising sons on the homesteads among the hills : but, it may also be safely asserted that no other State has more reason to be proud of the sons and daughters sent forth to the world, and to no spot do the absent look back with more of affection and reverent love. That * ♦ ♦ * * •the land Of etorms and mountains hath the nobleat sons; Whom the world reverences." is proved to be true of this land of hills, as well as of other ands, and in other times. The wildness of the mountains scenery, in the northern section of the State, attr *cts that ar ■ my of visitors for whose use this book has been prepared. THE MERRIMACK RIVER. "Our Christian river loveth most The beautiful and human ; The heathen streams of Naittds boast, But ours of man and woman." By whichever way the capital of the State is approached from the south, the way for several miles is along the banks of the fViir Merrimack, preeminently the river of uses, sub- servient to almost every industry. It was said in the quaint language of the early discoverers, to be a ** faire, large river, well replenished with fruitful isles ; the country pleasant, full of goodly forests find faire vallies," a description that answers well for the present, though made when its waters ran un vexed to the sea. Rising in sources more than five thousand feet above sea level, tba Pimigew.asset and Winnipesaukee rivers unite at Franklin, forming the Merrimack. The Winnipesaukee is the outlet of the great lake, and the water-power companies of the cities below have wisely provided artificial means to retain in tiiis great natural reservoir a reserve of power in times of drought. ^IPipi NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 41 A.long the banks of this fair stream we are now whirled. As its sources are more varied, so are its uses more manifold than any stream of its extent and volume in the world. Gath- ered from infant streams, born in the placid ponds of the Franconia Valley, and high up on the summit of Mount Wil- l(^y, in the Crawford Notch, and receiving waters from tlie outlets of Winnipesaukee, Squam and Newfound lakes, from the slopes of distant Monadnock and Kearsage, through the Contoocook, Blackwater and tributaries ; and, farther down, from the outlet of Massabesic, the Suncook, Souhegan, Nash- ua, Concord, 'Spicket and Shawsheen rivers, it discharges into the Atlantic, after its broken and busy flow of 260 miles by its course. The fine imagination of Whittier thus invokes the fair stream, at a merry gathering upon the river bank: " liring us lli« airs of tlie hillH and foro-t8, The sweet aromii of birch and pino, flivo MS a waft of the north wind laden With sweet brier odosi and breath of kine! Lead us away in shades and sunshine, Sliives of fani;y, througli all tiiy miles, Tlie winding ways of the Pemigewasset, , And Winiiiposaiikt'e's hundred isles." Lowell, Nashua, Manchester and Lawrc^nce are the chief manufacturing centres utilizing its power; with a iiost of lesser towns, upon its banks and tributaries, deriving their inipoi^.ance from the water-powers here so generally usembly of the prov- ince, 1775, as "having Mansion Houses. Fortifications and ' 'I ! 'V 42 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. |l • ': ill ;V'?!'? lii:i.11 out-houses, well formed for defence, being on the Merrimack River about a day's march below the conlhience of the Win- nipishoky and Ptnumissavvassett Rivers." In this petition the inhabitants ask that their"* antient and well-regulated settlement may have seasonable aid for protection against a bloodthirsty and merciless enemy, who threaghten the life of the settlement, and render danger of evacuation eminent." The State House is finely situates! in the heart of the city, between Maine and State streets, and the enclosed grounds, some two acres in extent, are laid out in pleasant walks. Sons of New Hampshire who may tarry here, if but for an hour, should visit the gallery of portraits of eminent sons of the State, including a recently collected series of paintings of the local Governors, from the courtly fejitures and dress of the old colonial times, through the long line of rulers of this wisely and lightly govern(3d commonwtjalth, down to the well-known and much abused modt?rn governor. In the Sen- ate-chamber are the porti^nits of the presiding ollicers of the Senate, who have been among the most (jminent men of the State. In the Representative's Ilall are fine portraits of General John Stark, of Bennington fame ; also of Gen. Alex'r Scham- mel and Gen. Enoch Poor, companions and intimates of La- fayette, — with other line portraits more universally known. The State Asylum for the Insane, with its extensive build- ings and grounds, is upon a graii the plains of Mexico, or the Steppes of NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 43 Central America, the well known name of Concord makers is upon the vehicle which conveys you ; and, if the horses are housed in the famous Concord harness manufactured here by James R. Hill, Esq., you have added security for safe passage and delivery ; for nowhere in the country is better material or more honest labor put into carriage and harnesg work than is done by these makers, whose wide local reputa- tion has become a national one : their work is in demand wherever superior workmanship and material is required. Concord was incorporated as a town by the government of Massachusetts in 1783, under the name of Rumford. The massacre of five citizens of the town by Indians, in 1746, is a matter of history well known to all familiar witli local rec- ords. A plain granite monument on the Hopkinton road marks the vicinity of the tragedy. The St. Pan! School, for boys, is a flourishing institution at Millville, some two miles from the city proper, on tiie Hop- kinton road and Turkey river. There are tasty buildings, in :i pretty location, in the quiet valley. Tlie School is under the patronage of the Episcopal denomination, and is a model institution, liberally patronizo.l. Long before the white man ruled in the realm, the centre of savage authority was at Pennacook, the Indian village lo- c.ited on the present site of the city. The P(;nnacooks were :v powerful tribe, and Passaconnaway, their great Sangamon, was a sav "'e ruler, and counsellor of acknowledged wisdom and power, co whom the lesser tribes were tributary. Concord is not wanting in good hotels ; and wiiether your stay here be short or for a long times all tiie substantial (rom- forts and desirable conveniences which guests may desire, can be had for reasonable charges, at the i i , :M mi ;" 44 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. ^!!|i| Presided over by J. R. Crocker, Esq., a popular and ofli- cient landlord. Excellent rooms and gentlemanly attendance, witli substantial plenty, arc sure to be found. The location i is in tlie centre of business, on Main street, near to Ilail\v:iy| Station, with frtje coaches for patrons to and from all trains. Also, at the j) • f, ^ ' 1 D •> }■ O ii y s^ ", ( U III f> 1^ ' u t H li( KH 1 1 >^ 11/ U 9ii Nirt ■I' ^iN m P- factured, from the liKhlest nmil flneiit hufgnj nnd carria|i(e to tbe heaviest farm and stnge liariicsn, all stitched by hand. During tlie past Ave years tlie estab- lishment has furnished some of the nicvsit and most recherche turn-outs to be found on the fimhSonable driven of the country. Tliey also make a hirgo number of coach, cxprens, and pcddlcm' harncim, and have api cxIeiitiiTe trade with harness-makers, sad- dle ry men, and horse, carriage and harness dealers." S02IE ADDITIONAL THINQS WE HAVE TO SA7 Informatian for those who desire to purchase or use "THE CONCORD HARNESS," Which has received the unqualified commendation of every one who has used them, in every part of this country and in foreign lands. We shall keep its manufacture fully up to the high standard we have adopted. Having increased our facilities for. manufacturing, we are now prepared to fill more orders than ever before, and are filling orders to the trade all over the country. The reputation our Harnesses have acquired during the past thirty years, renders it unnecessary for us to say but m littlQ,in regard to their merits; but as some may not have had the opportunity of becoming acquainted with their value and our method of making them, we would say, for the information of all such, that they are made in the most thorough manner, from tbe best of stock and materials, all of which are selected by ourselves with great care; and the test of every climate from East to West, and from betwecH North and South, proves thom to be uncqualed. Our great experience in the business, and ui-ing such O t (?) B 8 a 1 I a i^^^^iiii^gi •MMIiltHI SOME THINGS SAY ABOUT 'Tl GOieeRD HARNm," No Man Claims to do More. The Harness and Carriage Makers' Jotimal under date j^fJan. 13, 1872, in an article on harness, s.'.ys:—"' The pONCORD Harness ' deservedly holds a high reputation tbe trade. It is better than niiything of the (ind made in Europe) and has a g-reat repu- II ion abroad. In South America and Australia it jmraands the highest prices, and wherever ffood harness is appreciated in America, the cusfom- indc warranted work of Concord ia preferred for all hndM of service. This harness, manufactured exclw yoely by J. R. Hill & Co. of Concord, N. H., has a sputniion for excellence which it has been found ^cessary to protect from imitation by procuring a patent I the trade-mark, which is * THE CONCORD HAB- fESS.' "The business has grown up with the country from a lall beginning, and has assumed proportions that lake it one of the prominent representative rivate industries of the country^ and has given ^aracter not only to the harness manufacture of the lie, but also to that of New England, for tlie ison that NO MAX\n the business CLAIMS to do |ore than make as srood a harness as JA8. HILL & CO. of Concord." 'he Best Harness that can be Made. The Idaho Statesman under date of February, 1874, in jrring to the celebrated Concord Harness, says:—" They |ry truthfully say, ' if you once buy our harness we shall 2t to sell you all the harness you use.' We have the Concord Harness and ivonid reconi* fnd everj man who wants a harness to send F. H. Hill & Co. at Concoi-d, N. H., dew-ribing the kind |harne83 he wants, and he will get the best har- ts that can he made, and A8 CHEAP as if [were there to contract in person." (1) Superior in Styl " We have sold their (the Concord) Ha seven years, and we pronoiinco them to IN STYLE and DURABILIT Eastern harness. We keep a compl them " GWINN & BRAINERD Is Sufficient for ail Pi In reference to the popidarity and **The Concord Jlarness," the Cj writing under date of Sept. 14, 1860, in r« neas of Main & Winchester, prominen Francisco, and who were at that time ac Messrs. Hill & Co., says:— "They s and well known, the mcutioi that tliey have the Concord Harness fo cient for all purposes." i( Will Never Change It for The Chicago Evening Post under dat* says:— "Tliose who purchase the Conco never, under any consideration another kind. It is not over expensive, ■ best materials, and WILL LAST AS POSSIBLE TO MAKE ANYTHING MAN HUMAN SKILL ENDUUE." You will please bear in mind that the : description of Harness, and the custom tastes gratified in every particular, made to his exact liking. First Harness ever used in The Harness and Carriage Makers* Jo\ of Jan. 28, 1871, in an article referring to of Harness and Carriages in New Engla said that the first liarness ever used in B made by this firm. Be that as it may, tl edly, among the pioneers of the business of harness, not only to all parts of t but to the other civilized countries Here every class and style of hi ^2; jperior in Style. ;Leir (the Concord) Harness for the last pronounce them to be SUPERIOR nd DURABILITY to any other We keep a complete assortment of VINN & BRAINERD, Pelaluma, Cal. cient for ail Purposes. the popularity and good qualities of JlavnesH," the California Farmer, 3 of Sept. 14, 1860, in reviewing the busi- Winchester, prominent dealers in San o were at that time acting as agents of lo., says:— "They nr« ho w^ldvly ftwii, the mention of the fact be Concord Harness for sale is suffl- ioses." >r Change it for Another." )ening Post under date of May 11, 1872, 10 purchase the Concord Harness will any consideration, change it for is not over expensive, is made from the and WILL LAST AS LONG AS IT IS AKE ANYTHINO MANUFACTURED BY JNDURE." bear in mind that the firm make every xness, and the customer can have his n every particular, and the liarnees t Hking. (s ever used In a Kingdom. Carriage Makers* Journal under date an article referring to the manufacture irriages in New England, says:— "It is larness ever used in Bolivar, S. A., was Be that as it may, they are, undoubt- oneeraof the business in the shipment ly to all parts of this continent, civilized countries of the world. and style of harness is manu- (2) factureii, from the lightest nnd flnent bug-^y Bn«I carriage to the heaviest farm and stage harness, all stitclietl by hand. During the past Ave years the ostab- li \ment lias furnished some of the niceiit and most recherche tarn-outs to be found on the fniiiilonabie driven of the country. They also make a large number of coach, exprens, and poddlem' harnemi, and liave api exteniiire trade with harness-makers, sad- (lUry men, and horse, carriage and harness dealers." ♦ ♦• SOME ADDITIONAL THINGS WS HAVE TO SA7 Information for those who desire to purchase or use "THE CONCORD HARNESS," Which has received the unqualified commendation of every one who has used them, in every part of this country and in foreign lands. We shall keep its manufacture fully up to the high standard we have adopted. Having increased our facilities for, manufacturing, we are now prepared to fill more orders than ever before, and are filling orders to the trade all over the country. The reputation our Harnesses have acquired durinf the l)ast thirty years, renders it unnecessary for us to say but little in regard to their merits; but as some may not have Lad the opportunity of becoming acquainted with their value and our method of making them, we would say, for the information of all such, that they are made in the most thorough manner, from the best of stock and materials, all of which arc selected by ourselves with great care; and the test of every climate from East to West, and from between North and South, proves them to be unoqualed. Our great experience in the business, and uf-ing such i?) large quantities of stock, enables ns to sell the customer a BETTER HAHNEi^S for the same OB LESS HONEY than can be obtained of any other party in this country. We give our entire attention to our business, and ererj Harnesa ia made under oiir personal anper- rision. Our work is all custom-made and atitched by hand 1 No Harness is made from one side of leather, but the several parts are taken from the leather especially adapted for their respective use, but all from one kind of leather. We are thus enabled to get perfect straps in every part of the Harnesn* where otherwise it would be impossible ; especially when the harness maker may have ©nly a limited stock or supply of leather from which to sislect. We are very particular about our leather, and the results hnvo proved that IT IS THE BEST TO BE HAD. Another and important feature in a Harness is to have it lit the horge. This should not be lost sight of. A " good fit " is as essential for the tine appearance and look of a Harness, as that of a garment to an individual. In all our Harnesses we intend to combine neatnesi), iiym<> metry) streugtli und durability. All of our Harnesses are custom-made, and if you once buy our Harness ive shall expect to sell yon all the Harness you usey and, through your recom- mendation, expect to sell to your friends and neigh' bora their Harness. From this you can fee we have an interest in having every Harness we make ALL RIGHT IN EVERY PAKTIOULAR. This business is no new thing with us. For a third of a century we have been building up the reputation of " THE CONCORD HARNESS," and each year brings us new and additional business from every part of the country. ALL WE ASK Is a fair trial of our Harness, and when we have that we know wluit the result will be. W You may say that you can buy Har and save expense and trouble. Yo cheap Harness for less than we shoi set; but remember it is not always with that is the cheapest in the end. experience that in stock and trimn of making Harness there is A GRE and we claim that OUB HABNE SUPERIOR LEATHER to that use( generally, and the trimmings and m especially for us, of the best quali COST, gives us a great advantage oa makers who do a small and limited bi FIiSASIS REXSS Tliat the quality and standard of '« T WAS NEVER HIGHER than at the WILL BE OUR GREAT AIM to give HON to all who may use them. We wish it distinctly tinder s\ Mark consists of the words "The Concord I We stamp our firm name and i our Trade-Mark, on all of our I protected by law in our manufacture SPECIAL NO" That any party attempting to niak not made by us as " The Concord H ecuted promptly and to the end of tl We weuld also call your attention "The Concord Which has been so well known ( (5) jT that you can buy Harness cheaper at home, inse and trouble. You probably can buy a i for less than we should charge for a good mber it is not always the cheapest to start e cheapest in the end. You will find by that in stock and trimmingd, and the manner rness there is A GREAT DIFFERENCE, 1 that OUR HARNESS ARE MADE OF EATHER to that used by harness makers the trimmingd and mountings being made us, of the best quality, REGARDLESS OF i a great advantage over all other harness } a small and limited business. IiIiASZ! REMEBKBER ty and standard of "The Concord Harness " HIGHER than at the present time, and it R GREAT AIM to give ENTIRE SATISFAC- bo may u8e them. t distinctly understood that our Trade - of the words I Concord Harness." ur firm name and residence as well as lark, on all of our Harnesses. As we are iw in our manufacture, we give SPECIAL NOTICE, y attempting to make or sell any Harness sas "The Concord Harness," will be pros- ly and to the end of the law. Iso call your attention to le Concord Collar," sen 80 well known during the past thirty (5) years throughout the country, both to the trade and the consumers. When they have once been used by The Farmer, Teamster, Stage and Liverymen, They are always wanted afterwarls. We do not try to see how ch«»P) but how yoofl a Collar we can make. Every one is made in the most thorough manner from the best of stock, all of whicli is prepared expressly for us; and the style is with especial reference for the ease and comfort of the horse, having that peculiar shape to fit the neck of the animal — the bellies being stuffed with wool flocks to render them soft and comfortable, and to prevent galling or sore shoulders. You will please bear in mind that we are the orlffinal and only maJcers of the Genuine Concord Har- ness and Collars. Every Collar we make has our firm name and re^^idence stamped on them, and any Collars not so stamped are not The Genuine Concord Collars. Every one selling an imitation Collar and representing it as our make, will be dealt with according to, and to the extent of the law. Carefully look over all we say, and become satisfied in your own. mind that we talk auil inettit sqiiure bii Illness and then ACT. For prices, circulars, or any information concerning Harness, address Your most obedient servants, JAMES R. HILL & CO., CONCORD, N. H. Only Makers of *'THB- CONCORD HARNESS." W 44 cie wit • • IS ] Sta ■i yaaxA throughout the country, both to tlie tra^sirable as a place of residence and important as a trade centre. The name " L:i- conia" was originally given to the whole region lying about the lakes and mountains. Here are located the Belknap IV^ills, Ranlet Car Company with Iron Foundries and machine shops, a Bank of Discount and two Savings Banks with all the accessories of a desiral)le country village. The Laoonfa House, kjtpt. by Elkins Brothers is a new and commodious Ijouse, atibrding visitors substantial comforts and all needed requisites for a pleasant temporary home. A stage line runs from here to Alton Bay, The drive to Centue Hak- lioH is one of rare interest, and the Belknap and Gunstock Mountains are often visited from this point; the view from thii highest summit gives the eye wide range of the whole ex- tent of the lake from a central point. Good teams for drives can be had at the above named hotel. Tiie pleasant residen- ces and tasty church buildings of the village attract attention as the through passengfjr is hurried on to LAKE VILLAGE, the next railway station, another thriving town of attractive appearance, important as the place where are located tlio construction and repair shops of the Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad line, with manufactories of machinery and mill castings (Cole Manufacturing Co.,) Hosiery mills and, other mills of importance for making of knitting machines, needles, &c. a I I IS a con: David I^ who may drives in make tiie S. will f. from Lae From Bay, lyin Tlie lake unpretenc probably fish'Weirs TJiis is where pa " I-Jidy oi Jjghtful sj] ^^•ilv'e, to tl ti il north ''«auty an in next el NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 49 The Mount Belknap House is .1 commodious brick structm'e, near the railway station; David B. Story, Esq., is the obliging landlord; and those who may tarry here for a time will find no lack of pleasant drives in the surrounding region, and no one should fail to make the trip to the summit of Belknap. For these trips Mr. S. will furnish good teams at reasonable rates. The stage from Laeonia to Alton Bay connects here. From Lake Village the railway skirts the shores of Long Bay, lying to the riglit, an outlying portion of the lake proper. The lake itself now conies in view as you reach the small and unpretending station standing in solitary importance, and WEIRS, probably so called for the reason that here were located the fish-weirs, or nets, of the Indians. Tiiis is the steamboat landing on Lake Winnipisaukee, where passengers can leave by the commodious steamer, ** Lady of the Lake," Capt. S. B. Cole, and enjoy the de- lightful sail of ten miles, through the fmest portion of the Lake, to the quiet and pictun^sque hamlet at the head of cen- tral northern bay, so loved by artists and sought by lovers of In^iuty and (juiet — known as Centre IIauuok, fully «lescribed in next chapter. Wffi CHAPTER III. LAKE WINNIPISAUKEE AND VICINITY. This is the ancient " Winnapusseawkit, Winnipaseket or Winipasckek.'' If it be not sacrilege to apply nu-asunimimt to the moltoii surface;, or impossible to compute in miles so irregular a form, we may say, in general terms, that tiie length of the lake is some twenty-five milrs, varying in width from less than one to seven miles in its gic atest breadth, giving about 70 sq. miles surface. Its elevation above sua level is 496 feet. The waters are of a deep, clear and trans- parent green. The islands (more; than three hundred in num- ber) have clearly defined, and, with some exceptions, low, rocky shores, and are covered with greenest foliage. On DiAMONiJ Island, which is a sort of half-way station for tiie boats from the lake landings, and at which the " Lady of the Lake" makes a short stop in its trip from Wolfeoborougli to | Weirs, is a comfi- onvar soldiery during tlie French and Indian wars. 1 &" ^^..^> ^%: IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 '^^ '""" liiiiJl t llitt '""^ If la III 2.0 11= U ill 1.6 ^>i w •^/^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ .•V :\ iV \ .^•^-^ ^9) V ■^>. ''''., 6^ % s CP, i/x jecting wing. Tiiere are 150 sleeping-rooms, largn, airy, an. I well furnisiied with bathing facilities. Suites of room* n ^^ NOUTIIEKN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 63 can be had for families. Tlie parlor is spacious, with eh^gant furnishing, anil a fine frontage to the south. The building is crowned with an observatorj', from which you have a wide outlook over the surrounding country. Good teams may l)e had at the first class livery stable near at hand, with skillful drivers familiar with surrounding scenery. The public rooms and passage-ways are lighted with gas. Pleasant drives, in the vicinity of Plymouth, are numerous to points of interest within reasonable distance, viz. around Smith's bridge, 6 miles ; to Livermore Falls, 2 miles ; Plym- outh Mountain, 10 miles; Loon Pond, 5 miles; Squam Lake, 6 miles; Centre Harbor, 12 miles. Prospect Hill, or Mount Prospect, in Iloldcrness, should be visited by all who tarry at this place. The distance is about four miles from the Hotel — the ascent (not difficult,) the car- riage-way leading nearly to the summit — and the view I'nmi the summit (2,968 feet elevation) takes in the wide reaches of valley, lake, stream and mountain, with the vil- lages, farms and intervales that sleep in the fair valley of the Pemigewasset.and Baker's River; while, far to the north, the great ranges of the White and Franconia Mountains thrust liieir ragged peaks and swelling masses upon the liorizon ; tlie views of Mount Lafayette and Cannon Mountain are par- ticularly gi'and from this summit, and Chucorua, Gunstock, Ik'lknap Mountains, Monadnock and Kearsage greet the vis- ion as the eye sweeps the circuit from the east to tlie west, and to the northwest !Moosehillock swells nobly into view ; Wiikavvan, Squam and Winnipesaukee Lakes lie in their (jui- et and silvery beauty in the unrivalled landscape, which in- cludes some portion of nearly every county in the State. 'i o make this trip you will necessarily be absent from the hotel only about four hours. The road is safe and firm, af- fording a continual change of view as the ascent is maile. Livermore Falls, on the Pemigewasset River about two miles northerly from the village, will not fail to prove an ob- ject of interest. The view is from the bridge some sixty feet above the fall : there are indications of volcanic disturbance's in the rocky bed. For a limited view, if you have not time w 64 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. ti ■- 1 •mt IP ifii ■m» I or inclination for a more extensive one, that from Walker's Hill, or South Mountain is pleasing to those unfamiliar with grander prospects. If a day or two is spent in Plymouth at this favorite Hotel, it is quite likely on your return, the coming year, your stay will be one of weeks. There is wholesome stimulus in the mountain air, and purity in the waters, activity and bustle at the Hotel and railway station, (three trains each day, to and from Boston,) from which a step, almost, will take you to undisturbed quiet. Before leaving Plymouth you will pay a visit to the small four-roofed building, now used as a wheelwright shop, in which Daniel Webster made his debut as a practising attor- ney. The old building is preserved in its ancient condition, and is looked upon with great interest by strangers and ad- mirers of the groat statesman. The popular boarding-house near the station, of which Hull's Boarding House. ■^^"^ w NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 65 W. G. Hull is proprietor, is a cheerful and convenient home for those who seek quiet for a time. It is finely located upon the hill-side. PEMIGEWASSET VALLEY STAGE ROUTE. The route from Plymouth to the Profile and Flumb IIooaES and tho Praiiconia Hills, 25 miles to tho Flume Ilouao and 30 miles to the Profile Houses, througii tho Peiuigewasset valley ia acknowledged to be one of the finest rides iu the wholo niouutain district. The way leads up this fair valley through the towns of Campton, Ttiornton, Woodstock, and Lincoln. The Camptun iutervalua. through which the river winds and turns as if reluctantly leaving the peaceful retreat— the graceful sweeps of the great elms, the rich beauty of the views, whicli open with every mileu of progress, have made this mountain town the fuTurite resort nf artists seeking the picturesque in landscape, and perfection iu 8hiiile and outline. On tlie way the road is somewhat rugged, but the fine views, the gradual BNVcliing and towering up of the great hills liS yuu approach their buse, and the lostoning of t)ie streams as you near their source, the entrance into the imniedi- Ate presence of the solemn and majestic mountains in the evening twilight, tho wouders of Franconia Notch, and tho comforts provided at the end will all linger in luoiuory long after the Journey hai become a thing of the past, and the land- Hcupes " Plaited with valleys, and embossed with hills, Enchased with silver streams, and fringed with woods," if seen in favorable lights, will be living pictures fading only with memory. Of the iittriictions and healthfulness of Oampton and the town^ beyond lying in this picturesque valley, among the great mountains and near to the wonders of Franconia, too much cannot be said in praise. A glance at the list of boarding- house!) at the close of this book, will show the demand for accommodations along this charming route. The number of temporary residents in these quiet homes, each season, is constantly increasing, and the time of their sojourn lengthens every year. The charms of this valley are appreciated by Artists and lovers of the picturesque who resort here every year to transcribe with pencil or brush the . beauty of landscapes so far us art may imitate nature. The valleys lie in lovely repose with the mountain land encircling them about. But we have digressed ; and, led away by the charms of [the Lake, and the fine stage-route, have partially forgotten [the railway line : but many will not be tempted, even by the Icliarms of the sail upon the Lake, but will continue by rail- |way northward from Plymouth, following for twenty miles [the valley of Baker's River to the Connecticut. Passing iiiincy's station, Rumney, West Rumney and Went worth 66 NORTHERN PLEABURt: TRAVEL. Station, Rattlesnake Mountain, Carr's Mountain and other elevations of consitlerablo boldness are seen before reachlnij Wentworth. WARREN. Moosilauk Mountain, distant some five miles to the b;iso, is visited by all admirers of mountain scenery. The siscent is by a new turnpike recently opened to the summit, some four miles. There are good hotel accommodations at the summit for those who remain. From this isolated crest (4,636 feet altitude,) high above all surrounding peaks, is one of the grantlest and most extensive views in New England : the eye falls directly upon the White and Franconia mountain ranges. Eastward the great C(in- tral dome of Washington, flanked by the noble ranges of the mighty hills ; the scarred sides of Lafayette, the walls of the Notch and the Pemigewasset Mountains. Carrigan and Pe- quaket arc prominent peaks, the Uncanoonucks, Monad- nocks and Kearsarge bound the vision as you sweep around from south to west. The vast extent of view from this liii^li crest includes nearly all of eastern and southern New ILuiip- shire, the mountains in the direction of Nortli Conway and glimpses of distant Maine, while, far away to the northwest, the view extends into the Canadas. The first experience of wintering upon mountain summits in this latitude was on this summit in 1869, by Prof. Huntington and others. The Moosilauk House is a well-kept Hotel with an extensive liv- ery for the accommodation of visitors. From WaiTcn the course of the railroad is northward, passing " Owl's Head" lying off to the right, and the villages of Haverhill and North Haverhill upon the left. The elevat- ed line of the road at this place overlooks the wide valley! and the great bend or " Ox-bow" in the Connecticut, wit! the pleasant villages on either side of the river, in(;luding th fine towns of Bradford and Newbury on the Vermont side with mountains in the back-ground. The express train i the pleasure season does not cross to Wells River, but sweep] to the right by the " cut-oft," leaving the thriving and pop Tin's pl^ Boston, at ^'•om liostl tain railw^ niilos). II Plements, other prod, oank, good 'e^'prisin^ Jt^withnec-J NORTHERN PLKASURE TRAVEL. 67 loiis village of Woodsville, a railroad town of recent but vig- orous growth, to the left. Tlio mail train, following the express, stops at all stations, and all trains, excepting fjist through express, connect at Wells River, forming junction with the Passumpsic River Railroad for Lakes Willoughby and Memphremagog. The Wells River and Montpelier Railroad, now completed, takes passengers from this point to Montpelier, Mounts Mansfield !ind Camel's Hump, Burlington (where boat or cars may bo takcm for Saratoga), Lake Champlain, Lake George, or for St. Albans and Ogdensburg. NOTHWARD TO LITTLETON. Re-crossing the Connecticuf by the same bridge and back through Woodsville, the line of road from this point — the White Mountain Division — passes along the valley of the Wild Ammonusuc River, which, from its sources on the slopes of the great mountains, abounds in rapids and fall^, and is the most variable and wild of the New England streams, descending five thousand feet from its source to its union with the Connecticut. Passing through Bath, a sleepy village, and Lisbon — a pret- ty and enterprising town, the people of which are determined to enrich themselves and the country, either by developing their gold mines, or disseminating their patent fertilizers, and North Lisbon, you reach the important town of LITTLETON. This place is reached by the morning express train from Boston, at 3.30 p. M. It is 113 miles from Concord, and 187 from Boston, and is one of the most important of the moun- tain railway stations, nearest to the Profile House (distant 11 miles). Rough and manufactured lumber, agricultural im- plements, starch and woolen goods are here made, with many I otlier productions. There is a bank of discount and savings I bank, good hotel and boarding accommodations, a live, en- terprising people, quiet and seclusion for those who choose it, with near railroad facilities. An easy day's ride will carry 66t NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. - I one to any of the points of interest in the mountains, and re- turn. Extensive views of the mountains can be had from the elevations in the immediate vicinity. Thayer's Hotel is a well managed house which has been long kept by the present proprietor. The coach will be found waiting with others at the depot. Superior boarding accom- modations at the Oak Hill and other boarding houses. During your stay at this place, a visit should be made to the photographic rooms of the Kilburn Brothers. These ar- tists have the finest collection of stereoscopic views of moun- tain scenery and picturesque localities to be found in New JIngland. They are not excelled as artists, nor equalled in their speciality of view-taking in the open air, being them- selves enthusiastic mountaineers. Few visitors leave the mountains without a collection of their fine views of notable localities and scenes, as souvenirs of their journey. Stages leave for the Franconia Hills immediately on ar- rival of the trains, and, if you withstand the temptation to tarry here for a time, or for the night, you can proceed direct- ly on your way to the Profile House. You should by no means neglect to take the drive FROM LITTLETON TO FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MOUNTAINS, a stage i*oute of eleven miles, by a good road over hills and through valleys, passing through the long, straggling and pic- turesque village of Franconia (the reputed cold spot of the country in winter). The views of Mts. Lafayette and Can- non from Franconia village are very fine. The approach to the Notch by this route, in the sombre stillness of the fading day, when the shadows ascend slowly to the mountain tops, gilding their summits with golden splendor, and the bare and grim' outlines of the range are brought out in bold relief, is a scene to be remembered. Sometime before reaching the Profile House you pass the farm belonging to the hotel, with the tasty and lavish display of flowers about the door and lawn, and beautiful fresh sup- plies, telling of substantial provision for their numerous i NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 69 gnosts; the diverging road to Bald Mountain is also passed. Echo l^ake lies just to tiie left of the roadway; Eagle Cliff towers into view just beyond, and, as you near the Iiotel, you look to the right far up on the rocky summit of Mount Can- non where the granite mass which gives name to this sum- mit stands, an almost perfect imitation of a mounted gun of heavy calibre. THE k'ROFILE HOUSE is now reached — from its location, surroundings, and man- agement, one of the most popular resorts in the whole moun- tain region. Echo Lake, Eagle Cliff, the Great Stone Face, and Profile Lake are all in the immediate vicinity, and, with the general wildness of the pass itself, make up a scene un- equalled, in many of its features, elsewhere in the world. The smaller but well kept Flume House, five miles below, has the same management and is in near vicinity of the Flume, The Pool, Georgianna Falls and other wonders. The Basin is passed on the journey through the pass, being by the road- side. Of these natural wonders and the ascent of summits from these points see full description in chapter on ** Franco- nia Notch." Again returning to the railway and going ' NORTHWARD FROM LITTLETON you may pass directly on and unite with the Grand Trunk Railway, at Northumberland Junction, for Colebrook, Dix- ville Notch, Island Pond or the Canadas, or tan*y as you may choose at either Whitefield, Dalton, Lancaster or Guildhall, successive stations upon this line, hereafter noticed in detail ; but, if your destination is Bethlehem, the Twin Mountain or Fabyan Houses, Mount Washington summit or the Crawford House (at the Notch) you will take the Mt. Washington Branch Railroad, diverging from the main line above Little- ton at the *• Wing Station," and pass directly on to these points. - BETHLEHEM, on this branch, has become the gi*eat mountain healtfi resort of New England in the summer months. It is the highest 70 nort;iern pleasure travel. open tal)lo land (1,500 ft. elovation) avriilablo for rosidnnces, in the Eastt!rn States; and the pun; air, vvid(i prospcu't, pi('tnr(*s(jue s(!enes and surroimdlni^s, attract temporary res- dents from all parts of the country. Tiie *' str(!et " is a loni,' line of scattered houses at some distance from the railway station, and from this grand plateau and favorable distan(;e the outlook upon tlie mountains is grand and impressive. Many invalids are sent to this place by a. There were no highways for several years after set- tlement, and the nearest mills were at Charlestown and Plymouth. Their frugal fare is thus described by a facile writer : '* Emmons Stockwell kept a huge mortar, which held aboiit two bushels ; into this they put their corn, beans and rye ; then they pounded it with a great wooden pestle, as none but them could pound. With this they mixed potatoes, well baked and peeled, and the vegetables their tastes might se- lect; the whole was baked together into magnificent 7%twip. NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 76 Soasoned with good appetites, it was found a delicious dish by the early inhabitants of our glorious old town." Ilarrassed by Indians, dispirited by failures, and cheered by no bright future, the settlement was at one time to be abandoned; but one dauntless spirit cluni; to the fair valley •'for better or for worse," and, by force of heroic example, saved the colony, and permanently founded this noble town, set in the loveliest of valleys, and circled by distant peaks and mountains. The tourist will travel far to find a lovelier village, sur- rounded with more of the varied and romantic in natural scenery, or of neatness and advantage in the accommodations for pleasant residence. The waters are pure in their fresh escape from the bosom of great hills; and the summer winds are cooled by contact with the bald summits of the mountains. A walk of about a mile on the Jefferson road will take those unable to visit the mountains, to a point giving a fine view of a portion of the White Mountain Range. The visitor at this place will find in the elegant and com- modious Lancasteu House, 76 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. ill B. H. Corning, Manager, as fine a hotel as the mountain re- gion can boast. Fish, game and fruits, fresh from the sur- rounding region, commodious rooms, and liberal accommo- dations in every department, give assurance of personal comfort. Drives in the surrounding country and to noted points in the mountains from this point will reveal unsur- passed diversity and charm in landscape, while the railroad connections are such as to afford the greatest facility to trav- elers and buisness men. The sidewalks and crossings of the village streets are superior to those of many larger towns, adding greatly to the comfort and pleasure of citizens and visitors, This is the shire town of the highland county of Coos, and here centres much of the professional, mechanical and agri- cultural business of northern New Hampshire. Church- going people of every denomination can here select their favorite form of worship, including an Episcopal Parish re- cently organized. Trains connect with the Grand Trunk Railway, daily, for the Canadas, and the eastern approaches to the mountains at Gorham and the Glen, and by the Montreal road for the White and Franconia Mountains, the Mount Washington Railway, Lake Winnipesaukee, Boston, the lower cities and New York. Stage leaves Lancaster, on arrival of the train from Boston, about 5 o clock p. m. for the WAUMBEK HOUSE, JEFFERSOU HILLS, and the other desirable boarding houses at Joiferson, distant seven miles, and located at the foot of Starr King Mountain. Speaking of the view from these hills, Mr. King says : "They may, without exaggeration, be called the ultima thule of grandeur, in an artistic pilgrimage among the New Hamp- shire mountains." Here the mountains, marshalled in a vast arc of circling summits, present a wide sweep of landscape of a magnitude rarely met even in this, land of bold and startling prospects. This favorite hotel, kept by Merrill and Plaisted, is supplied with the freshest of country products from the neighboring pastures and streams, and the accom- modations are such as must please those who give the agree- ym 'hey le of ,inp- vast cape and and ucts ;om- :ree- i-* ■ f 78 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. able landlords their patronage, while the view from its piaz- zas is a changing picture of majestic outline, bathed in sun- light and swept by moving shadows and changing scenes, " Where, through a sapphire sea, the sun Suils like a guldeu galleon." A foot-path leads to the summit of Starr King Mountain, and one of the finest summit views in the whole mountain range. A good livery stable accommodates guests. The outlook is upon the White, Franconia, Green, Chen*y and StaiT King mountains. GUILDHALL, VT., at Northumberland Falls, is one of the pleasantest of coun- try villages, located among beautiful scenery and command- ing extensive views of the Connecticut valley. Th e Essex House, Hartshorn, proprietor, is a good hotel, attract- ive for families for a summer residence. The drives here- about are superb. The good boarding accommodations here found are liberally patronized. NORTHUMBERLAND JUNCTION. Unite here with the Grand Trunk Railway. A thriving settlement has sprung up at this point since it became im- portant as a railroad town. The trains connect at this point with all trains over Grand Trunk to and from Lancaster. Without delay passengers may proceed in fine parlor cars, if desired, to the great Canadian cities over the line of the Grand Trunk Railway. The great improvements in progi*ess on this line by change of gauge, renewal of rolling stock, and the substitution of steel rails, will greatly add to the comfort of patrons and ac- commodate the increasing travel to Canadian cities and places of attraction. Many tourists leave the cars of this line at North Stratford ; here you may find good quarters at the WiLLARD House, and take stage from thence to Cole- BROOK, where at the Parson's House, E. F. Bailey, proprie- tor, conveyance and all needful help will be furnished for NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 79 visiting the northern mountain pass ; the stages connect with every express train on the Grand Trunk Railway. DIXVILLE NOTCH is the most northern of the gi*eat natural wonders that crowd the White Mountain region. It is a dreary, forbidding and desolate pass, between vast decaying ledges and pillars of rock, threading the narrow roadway, which is maintained with some difficulty at the expense of the State. It is fast becoming a place of resort from Colebrook, and many pass on through the Notch to camp life, by the three lakes at the head waters of the Connecticut, and trouting by the wild waters of the Magalloway river. Within and about the Notch are mfmy objects of interest. The Silver Cascade is a wild waterfall at the northern outlet of the Notch. Ladders descend the rocky bed leading to the best point for a full view, and seats are arranged for the convenience of visitors. The Flume is a waterway well worth inspection, the bare walls standing squarely upright as though hewn by the hand of an artisan. The pulpit is a bold buttress of stone, more like the elaborate pulpit of "ye olden times " than the modern style. Here also is a veritable ** Old Man of the Mountain," of di- minutive size when compared with the grand ** Profile " of the Franconia range, but perfect in its resemblance to the fa- cial outline. These and other points are indicated by sign- boards liberally scattered along the way by the owner of the lands. The ascent to table Bock (800 feet pei*pendicular height), the highest pinnacle, may now be easily made by rude steps cut to facilitate climbing. The view from this dizzy height is one to be sought and remembered. CHAPTER V. THE FRANCONIA RANGE, Or Westerly Group op White Mountains. This western range of the White Mountains abounds in beautiful and enchanting objects of interest, and wild combi- nations of scenery, surpassing, perhaps, any other locality. Lafayette is the crowning peak, being 5,585 feet above sea level. The ascent is made from the Flume House. Franconia Notch is a pass ^itli close and precipitous walls, of about five miles in extent, between Mount Lafay- ette and Mount Cannon. The valley is about half a mile in width, and is a huge receptacle of the curious, the wild, and the beautiful in mountain scenery. The bare wal Is of Can- non Mountain, on the right, as you ride through from the Profile House, are grand in their impressive barrenness and lofty height. the great stone portrait, is the crowning feature of the pass. The grim old " King of the Hills," ever looking out in unchanging mtyesty on his wild realm. This wonderful copy of the human features, colossal in proportions, yet faithful and clear in its lines, is the great natural attraction sought by strangers. The length of the face has been ascertained to be not less than eighty feet. It looks from the southern face of Cannon or Profile Moun- tain " awflil but benignant," enchaining the interest of every beholder*-the majestic feature of a weird region, of which the poet sings " For hoary legends to your wiids belong, And yours are haunts where inspiration broods." NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 81 Echo Lake, The Basin, The Pool, The Flume, with its suspended l^oulder and cascades, and the ascent of Mount La- fayette are features of the Franconia Range fully described in succeeding pages, and seen by excursions from the Profile and Flume Houses. The facility with which this pass may be reached from Littleton or from Plymouth.by stage route up the valley, and the varied beauty and attractiveness of the range brings a yearly increasing tide of Pilgrims to ei\joy the wealth of beauty here to be found. The Profile House, at the northern entrance to the Notch, and in near vicinity of Eagle Cliflf, Echo Lake and the Profile, is the great resort of travelers and tourists, while the smaller but excellently kept and located Flume House, at the southern entrance and near the Flume, the Pool and other attractions, is a place of much resort. The Profile House, Franconia Notch, White Mountains, has accommodations for five hundred guests, on the most liberal and extensive scale. The ample grounds, command- ing wide and beautiful views, are crowded during the pleasure season with a happy company gathered from all parts of the land, who find here that cleanliness and attention, with that ample and substantial profusion of viands, which mountain air and exercise make, more than elsewhere, a necessity. The parlor and dining hall are spacious and elegant (about 100 by 50 feet area), and are lighted with gas. The telegi'aph runs to this point, and the man of business may receive his mails with regularity,and send his commands along the wires, while he gathers strength Ia the mountain air, and marvels among the mysteries of the hills. Many improvements are yearly made. The furnishing is elegant and complete, and the location superior. Stages leave, twice each day, for Plymouth, via the Pemige- wasset valley, and for Littleton, connecting with express trains on the Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad ; also stages each da:, for Bethlehem, connecting there with rail for Twin ]Mountain and Fabyan Houses. Mount Washington w- fi^ 82 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. Railway and the Crawford House are reached by short coach lino from either of these Houses. I §iHi 1 >,] o o AKOUND THE PROFILE HOUSE, in near vicinity, thts attractions accessible to guests by short walks, or carriage oi saddle trips,easily made,are more numor- NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 83 ous and of more wide and deserving notoriety than are to be found elsewhere in a long seeking after the picturesque. Fronting the hotel is the precipitous crag, towering fifteen hundred feet above the road, known as EAGLE CLIFF, once the chosen home of mountain eagles, hence the name. The cliflf is seen to best advantage from Profile T^ke, espe- cially through the fogs and mists that hang about it at times, or when gilded by the lights of morning or fading tints of evening. A short ascent up the side of Cannon Mountain gives a point of view from which all the boldness of the cliff will be seen standing out in impressive majesty. To the rear of the hotel, reached by footpath through the woods, a small brook plunging in a succession of falls, down tiie rugged ledges of the hillside, gives you, if you are fortu- nate to see it after its volume has been swelled by rains, a most pleasing and attractive sight, a fitting introduction to greater wonders yet unseen. The ple!ising picture spread before you of the quiet lake below, the mountains, valleys and forests, which you here overlook, will amply repay you for the climbing. Beneath *' Eagle Cliff," northward from thQ hotel on the Franconia road, locked within a circle of hills and embosom- ed in green forest, is the wonderful and widely famed little sheet of water known as ECHO LAKE. Floating upon its silvery surface in the boat provided for visitors, you may wake resounding and multiplying echoes from the circling mountains. Your halloo comes back from many hills as though a mocking circle of sentinels caught up the sound in succession, lessening in volume and force until it takes its flight far away in the fastnesses of the ravines. The blast of a bugle or horn comes back in softened repeti- tion of musical echoes and re-echoes dying out in waves of sound among distant summits. Do not omit to visit this weird spot at the quiet morning or still evening hour, when all nature conspires to enhance its loveliness and heighten its I'iS'J'!- ii i I \i : 84 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. Echo Lake. charms, and the changes of color are no less wonderful tlism the reverberations of sound. Horns, bugles, a cannon and other instruments for waking echoes, pleasing and terrific, are here to be had for the use of visitors. CANNON MOUNTAIN is so called from a rock or combination of rocks near the summit resembling a huge cannon, seeming to command the passage of the Notch from its high position. It is also called Profile Mountain from the renowned " Profile " on its south- ern wall. The summit is about 2,000 feet above the road and 3,500 feet above sea level, and its steep sides covered with a thick growth of deciduous trees, stand facing the slopes of Mount Lafayette and form the western side of the Notch. NORTHERN FLEABURE TRAVEL. 85 The ascent of this mountain, by footpath, is one of the pleasures of a visit to Franconia, though, possibly, there may be more pleasure in the outlook than in the climbing. The top is a surface of bald rock, not reached without vig- orous exertion. This height gained, you look upon that tow- ering cluster of peaks — the White Mountains proper — down the broad valley of the Pemigewasset, and upon all the varied contrasts of mountain and meadow, lake and village, river and stream, that combine in the wide landscape seen from this high summit, The ascent of *' Bald Mountain " is another less tiresome trip, made by carriages if yon wish, nearly to the summit, but easily made by pedestrians. The view is wide in extent, looking down into tl ^ Notch and its wonders, northward upon the distant broke . line of hills, and ** Lafayette " swells high above you to the eastward, while the sweeping shadows or trailing vapors roll along the rugged slopes, and through the broad valleys, in a moving scene of beauty which will f:ule only with the failure of memory. The path to this sum- mit diverges from the Littleton road about a mile from the Profile House. THE PROFILE, or •• Old Man of the Mountain," is best seen in the sombre lights of the coming evening. This bold combination of rocky masses, forming that wonderful imitation'of the out- lines of the human face, perhaps, more than any other natu- ral feature of the mountains, excites the curiosity of visitors. It is a bold combination of rocks forming the granite portrait only when viewed from the proper location . Change the point of view, for any considerable distance, and the features be- come a shapeless mass of rocks and crags. The rocks which form this wonderful outline are not in perpendicular line, but, appearing so, are combined perfectly in a sharp, angular and unmistakable imitation of the human face. The proper point of view is only about a quarter of a mile from the Profile House on the road leading down the Notch. The granite face stands out from the southern crest of Can- non Mountain in ms^estic repose, fifteen hundred feet abov6 It - ; Hi ' 86 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. The Profile, the surface of Profile Lake, unmoved by the mad fury of tempests and storms or the golden touch of morning sunlight, looking out from its rocky throne, insensible to passion, pleas- ure or pain, with the sharp and stony lines of. the immobile face set in unchangeable grandeur, solemn and awe-inspiring with its ages of exposure to the storms and tempests, the ad- miration of thousands who look upon it with bated breath. When viewed in the coming twilight, there is no need of call- ing on the imagination to coiyure out of the rocky outlines the •* Great Stone Face." " Full human profile, noee and chin distinct, Mouth muttering rhythms of silence up the sky. And fed at evening with the blood of suns." Under the full glare of the midday sun it is seen to least ad- l: NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 87 * vantage, but, when "shadowed with clouds and the glorified vapor of the mountains clustering about it," all the grandeur of the l)old outlines are apparent. Viewed from any other point than the locality named, it is an unmeaning mass of jagged rocks— a chaotic ruin. The fine imagination of llaw- tliorne likens it to " a mighty angel sitting among the liills, and enrobing himself in a cloud-vesture of gold and purple." It is a weird spot to spend the evening liour by the sliores of Profile Lake under the benignant face set in granite out- lines among slopes down which highland rivulets plunge over tilted walls of rock, the clustering hills where eclioes rever- berate, and " clouds trail their soft shadows in the gatliering mist." i'ltOMLE LtXKt.. \ 88 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. At the base of Cannon Mountain, directly beneath the over-hanging portrait of the *' Old Man," is a beautiful sheet of water, a quarter of a mile long by one-eighth of a mile wide, sleeping in the gi*een forests which enclose it and hang in shadow in its pure depths. The quiet beauty of the scene will excite the admiration of the coldest nature. Fanciful names have been bestowed upon it, such as the **01d Man's Mirror " and ** Old Man^s Washbowl ;" but however named, or if nameless, it is one of the gems in the gallery of moun- tain pictures seen in Franconia. It is the home of that lover of cool mountain streams and lakes, the beautiful trout, for which you must angle with skill, for no careless hand secures this wai'y beauty. You must also visit the Trout House, just below, where these shy beauties are seen by hundreds. THE ASCENT OF MOUNT LAFAYETTE. The climbing of this, the highest peak of the Franconia range, (height 5,100 feet,) is considered second only in inter- est to the ascent of Mount Washington. A half day's absence from the hotel is necessary for the trip, and horses with the necessary conveniences for the ascent are kept at the base, with competent guides for the accommodation of tourists. A new bridle path has been built for the lower half of the ascent, winding up the ravine just south of Eagle Cliff, leav- ing the highway almost opposite the hotel, shortening the distance some three miles. A shelter has been provided upon the summit for the pro- tection of visitors, and the prospect is one of the widest which invites the eye in the whole mountain region ; looking away over the great intervening reach of hills and valleys to distant Katahdin on the very eastern outpost of the army of hills ; upon the great cluster of mountain monarchs of which Washington is the peerless centre; upon the northern peaks away beyond Lancaster ; across the Connecticut Valley upon the hills of Vermont and the swelling crests of the Green Mountains, the valley of the Connecticut and the villages on either side, the wild ** Ammonusuc," and the villages of Lit- tleton and Bethlehem. The southern view is down the fair "^1^'7'Wli NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 89 Talley of the Fcmigewasset, "while great Moosilank swells nobly into view and Monadnock and Kearsarge bound the vision. DOWN THE NOTCH. As you ride down the Notch, from the Profile House, the bare rooky wall of Cannon, (or Profile,) Mountain is to the right with a forest covered base. At the proper point the huge rocks combine in the " Great Stone Face," and dissolve again in ruin. The scene on either hand is bold,startling and novel. Among attractions most noted are walker's FALLS. These falls are a half mile from the roadway down the Notch. The path diverges from the main way, some three liles below the ProfileHouse. Following a small brook,which uere crosses the road from the west, a succession of pictur- esque waterfalls are reached, leaping over the rocky shelves or sliding over the mountain slopes which form the bed of the little torrent broken into foam by impeding masses of rock. A half day's climbing along the course of this brook will afiord you a succession of pleasant surprises as you fol- low its worn channel in the rock, its gliding course over the water-worn granite, its successive leaps over the ledges, mingling its waters with those of the fair Pemigewasset, which soon pours its limpid flood over the granite rim of the BASIN, some three and one-half miles south of the Pi'ofile House. This granite reservoir is a ;vorn pjid curious cavity in the solid rocks, close by the roadway; evidently made by the whirling of rocks in the eddying currents; the waters sweep the circle several times in swift rotation before making their exit at the opposite side. The circular walls are very smooth and regular, the water falling within it in a pretty cascade ov er the brim and making its exit by a channel worn into a fancied resemblance to the human leg, hence the outlet is sometimes known as the "Old Man's Leg." The diameter of the Basin is about foity feet, the depth to Es& 90 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. '•#' the bottom twenty-eight feet, with a usual depth of twelve feet of water. A small stream among the hills to the left of the Basin, flows over tlie granite ledges on the mountain slope in pic- turesque and musical descent forming a succession of the most lovely cascades which may be followed up with pleas- ure to the upper fall where the stream plunges in a leap of some twenty-five feet. ^' THE FLUME HOUSE. This house is a small and well kept hotel very pleasantly located, facing Mount Liberty, in the vicinity of the Flume, the Basin, the Pool, and other natural objects of interest, affording from its very doors a view of the three great peaks of this range, Lafayette, Liberty and Pleasant, their harsh outlines somewhat softened by the distance, and of the wide valley of the Pemigewasset, in all its picturesque and quiet beauty. This house is kept by the proprietors of the Profile House, and visitors will find it a pleasant spot in which to spend their seiison of leisure, be it short or protracted. THE CASCADES are below the Flume and drop in gradual descent of several hundred feet in musical silver lini^s and gliding sheots of pure emerald waters over the wide, smooth, granite inclining plane, fretted more and more, as you ascend to the Flume by the help of rustic bridges, with many charming basins and pools of transparent water. You reach these wonders from the road by a pleasant path through the forests, a portion of which is graded as a carriage road. THE FLUME. This central wonder of this part of the valley is a narrow, rocky ravine or worn channel, with perpendicular walls on either side of 50 to 60 feet in height an I some 20 feet apart. "Within these regular and moss-covered rocks, evidently rent asunder by some throe of nature, a sm ill stream threads its way, in lovely confusion and perplexing disturbance along the broken bod of huge rocks which, from time to time, have NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 91 The Flume. fallen from the walls. The visitor can ascend through this shadowed and wonderful glen which extends some 800 feet between walls, apparently the work of Titans in the olden time ; a rude pathway of planks and needful artificial helps protecting him from all disagreeable contact with the mur- muring stream bubbling and complaining among the rocks below, and resting often in lovely pools and fissures. At one point the grand fissure contracts to a span of twelve feet and holds suspended, apparently with slightest security, " The Great Stone Wedge " — an enormous egg-shaped bould- er of many tons weight, an object of active speculation and lively curiosity, causing an involuntary tremor as you pass beneath. The road to the " Flume " diverges from the turnpike directly in front of the Flume House. In good 92 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. weather a visit to this wonder before breakfast is a grand ex perience and a good appetizer. THE POOL. After viewing the wonders of the Flume you take the path leading through the forest; leaving the road near the hotel stables and following it for half a mile you reach the Pool, a vast natural well, somewhat regular in form and outline, ex- cavated or worn in the solid gi*anite bed, a sort of immense basin repeated on a grund scale. A small stream flows over the brim from the north, and through a naiTow fissure oppo- site, the amber waters find exit. The span of the rim of this gloomy natural reservoir is about 150 feet, the depth is about 190 feet, with 40 feet of water in its sullen depths. The beauty of the cascades, the Basin and the Flume does not pertain to the Pool, but as a curiosity not to be omitted in the tour of mountain wonders, it will amply repay your visit. A clumsy boat sails upon the gloomy and circumscribed circuit of its waters. Steps lead down within the walls and quite likely you will spend some time within this solemn temple where, if alone, and to dream- ing inclined, you may muse for hours ere you come back to the brightness of the world again ; what a place for Haw- thorne to weave the fine threads of his fancy into a weird and wondrous tale. HARVARD OR GEORGIANNA PALLS. Diverging from the Lincoln turnpike, some two miles be- low the Flume Hotel, you shortly reach a brook leaping down the hillside, west of the roadway, in cascades which are among the very finest of the valley. T he little stream at one point takes a great leap of eighty feet over the ledge to bound off in another of nearly equal V* ^^ 'risning a line of silver sheen through the arching fringe ^ Ht?;^'>: bbery that serves to heighten its beauty. Down a iVv^li' <^ b'oken descent of three-fourths of a mile the waters ^ icet the quiet river below. Looking upwards along the bed of the stream as you ascend, the sight is one of rare beauty ; each stage of elevation developes new attractions in ghty qiial inge vn a ters long rare sin NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 93 the fall itself and the views of the valley below, caught in broken vistas between the forest trees; while from the sum- mit of the ridge you have an outlook not to be forgotten in memories of your journey among the hills. Miniature basins of the purest water, here and there along its course, excite the admiration of the observing. These latter wonders are in the romantic town of Lincoln , the first named, around the Profile House, are in Franconia. The stage route from the Profile passes down the Pemige- wasset Valley, previously described in the approach by this route from Plymouth. • MOUNT PEMIGEW ASSET, in the rear of the Flume House, may be ascended with no great difiiculty by visitors of either sex, and the view, espe- cially at sunset, is one of the rare delights of the journey, the setting sun bathing the grand outlines of the wide land- scape in a blaze of glory and splendor and gilding the gorges and peaks with subdued and waving lights. Only those whose limited time and means prevent further progress will leave the Franconia region without pushing on to the still more grand and impressive, though not more beautiful or varied scenery around Mount Washington and the White Mountain Notch described in the next chapter. Wwf III SS;V CHAPTER VI. THE WHITE MOUNTAIN RANGE. A modern writer has, in poetic and expressive language, described the mountains as " outbursts of the globe's pas- sion " — " witnesses of a pent up fury " — ** upspringing wedges of rock, flinging the garment of soil away, tilting and separa- ting the strata through which they break, and standing bare for the scrutiny of science." Terrible must have been the throes of nature which up- heaved the masses of the granite hills — known in common language as the White Mountains — given as a general name for the whole mountain region of northern New Hamp- shire, but properly belonging to the eastern and more exten- sive range, of which Mount Washington (6,285 feet in height) is the crowning glory. They are called White from the fact that, during the larger part of the year the snow remains upon the towering summits, yielding only to the intense heat of mid-summer, and are the highest peaks east of the Missis- sippi, excepting the high summits of the Black Mountains in North Carolina. The " White Mountain Notch " is the frowning pass pecu- liar to this range, also the pass known as Pinkham Notch, and, awrfy to the north, Dixville Notch. The range covers some forty miles square of country, and lies in the counties of Coos and Qrafton. The principal summits are Mount Webster, (4,000 feet elevation); Mount Jackson, (4,000 feet); Mount Clinton, (4,200 feet) ; Mount Pleasant, (4,800 feet) ; Mount Franklin, (4,900 feet) ; Mount Monroe, (5,300 feet) ; Mount Jeflferson ".'WMPMn NORTHERN PLKA8URE TRAVEL. 95 (5,710 feet) ; Mount Adams, (5,800 feet) ; and Mount Wash- ington, (6,285 feet). On the top of Mount Jefferson is a pond of considerable extent, with no visible outlet, but with waters clear as crystal and cold as ice. The ascent of this summit is seldom made, so rugged is the way. Within the central cluster of the liighest peaks of this range, in near proximity, are the sources of the Ammonu- suc, the Saco, the Peabody, Ellis and Moose Rivers; the waters of one reaching Long Island Sound through the wind- ing Connecticut, the others, by western slopes, reach the At- lantic on the eastern coast. Along these rivers, and on the swift mountain streams which feed them, are the cascades and fallSt which relieve the ruggedness of the slopes and gorges as laughter lightens the hum-drum realities of every day business. In the swales around the mountains are the great forests whence the lumbermen supply the demand (5f the older towns. There is a story of a pine in the old pri- meval forests towards Lancaster, 264 feet in height, long since put to use. 'i'he Notch, only twenty-two feet wide at its entrance, next to Mount Washington, and the view from its summit is the great natural feature of the range. It is three miles in length, the towering cliffs reaching in some places 2,000 feet in height. The Crawford House is near its northern entrance, nnd is the point from which to visit its wonders. The head- waters of the Saco flow through the pass, which is the thoroughfare for travel from Littleton, Bethlehem, and local- ities on the Connecticut and Ammonusuc to Conway and the Saeo Valley, or the reverse ; though, since the completion of the MOUNT WASHINGTON RAILWAY, much of the pleasure travel goes over Mount Washington, ascending by rail for three miles from the lower station to the Mount Washington House, recently erected on the sum- mit. This road, rising in some portions 2,000 feet to the mile, and an average rise of one foot in four, offei's a mode of as- c<>nt which has become the great sensation of the mountain tour. Descending on the east side to the Glen House, by the [ i;iJ.i«^. 96 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. carriage roadway, the excursionist has a deUghtful and novel experience of mountain staging, with little of fatigue or exhausting eflEbrt. This journey of a day is not one to be for- gotten. Well might Whittier sing : "With smoking axle hot with speed, witli steeds of Are and steam, Wide-waked to«daj, leaves yesterday behinm St. Lawrence to the sound, From Catskill east to the sea bound." VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT. "Crag heaped on crag, with many a flery rift and hoary summit." The magnitude of the wide stretch of country seen from this high altitude, when first swept by the eye, is overpower- ing and confusing from its extent and combinations. You imagine that the crust of earth has been tossed on a boiling caldron, and, at the touch of some mighty power, been con- gealed at the momen. if w lest of ebulition — a sea of sweep- ing ranges and isolated peaks, broad valleys and forests, sparkling lakes and : inuous streams above you. "The sky bends round The awful dome of a most mighty temple. Built by Omnipotent hand for nothing less Than infinite worship." The wild and rocky, but somewhat regular plateau of the summit, appears as an island surrounded by a petrified sea of hills. The jagged and bare peaks of the adjacent moun- tains, separated by ravines and gulfs of vast depth and out- line, are the most impressive feature of the wide panorama. If you are fortunate to gain an unobstructed view through the wide circle, you will look northward over the billowy land to the plains of Canada; to the northeast on the far dis- tant forests of Maine, with the dim outline of Katahdin just visible in the distance, while near at hand the great attend- ant mountains of this group — Jefferson, Adams and Mad- ison — tower in the foreground, a grand cluster of dark and rugged summits. Mount Jackson is on the southeast, close at hand, with the symmetrical, lone summit of Pequakt^t (Kiarsarge at North Conway) in th» distance, and Sebago Lake and the surrounding country in Main, and, sometimes, the faint blue line of the ocean, scarcely to be sepanited from the sky in the far distance. Southward is the valley of the NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 107 S.1C0 with its villages, the sharp pyramids of Chucoriia and the gl^am of fair Winnipesaukee. Southwesterly the remain- ing mountains of this range, Mount Monroe with its rocky peak and the Twin ponds, Mount Pleasant with its reguUir outline, Mount Franklin with a more level surface. Mount Willey and the further range of wooded hills. Westward, the valley of the Ammonusuc, the village of Bethlehem, the naked summit of Mount Lafayette in Franconia, the broken silver line of rivers, and in the dim distance, the Green Mountains, with Mount Mansfield and Camel's Hump. Northwest, the picturesque town of Jefferson, Pondicherry in the embrace of forests, and, further distant, the village of Lancaster. Viewed in the light of the setting sun, or when morning lights burn off the vapors from the face of the wide landscape, the scene is one which pen cannot describe nor pencil portray, but which memory will not fail to cherish as the choicest revelation of nature to be seen in a lifetime. Fortune does not always favor the tourist, and he may sometimes stand upon this lofty height, veiled in impenetrable mist, and the gloom of clouds, hiding the grand outlines which he knows lie beneath and around him. • If the rare privilege is given you to look through the clear and unobstructed light of early summer, or later autumn, on this blending scene of complex and overpowering gi*andeur and beauty, over which the contrasts of light and shade j>lay upon a scale wider than human eye is often privileged to view; the grand sweep of masses of cU)uds and the attendant trailing shadows beneath; the scrolls of mist that ride upon the winds and the shadows of great summits throwing their sombre veil over whole townships as the sun declines, all in- spire you with the feeling that you have been admitted into near and familiar contact with scenes in nature heretofore unknown to you, and perhaps, to crown all, while you are dreaming, a roaring storm gathers on the unsheltered cone and you shrink to notliingness in the midst of its resistless fnry. The storm, the lightning, and the clouds are not from above, but you are in the midst of or above them. 4% 108 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. \m':' ll WINTER ABOVE THE CLOUDS. On the bald summit of Washington, in the teeth of winter hurricanes, the daring and scientific gentlemen live iA arctic seclusion, each winter, among the dense clouds and roaring tempests of the great height, alternating with brilliant sunsets, shows of frost-work, and cloud-views; an experience of *' high life," grand and sublime; the better appreciated ])y the earnest natures who have experienced it; for the spice of danger and novelty of experience here had. Occasional visi- tors relieve the monotony of their solitary life, two ladies being of the number who made the ascent the past winter. It is a peculiar experience for those who so courageously ])rave the exposure. Oceans of clouds pierced by snow- capped peaks, all below being hidden in impenetrable frost- clouds ; the swift growth of clouds and storms and almost irresistible force of the winds, with the lonely lack of all animate life, are the grand peculiarities of their winter experience. ^ THE CRAWFORD HOUSE is situated at the gate of the White Mountain or Crawford Notch, It is one of the finest in its plan, of the mountain houses, the piazzas, of ample width, extending the entire length of the building. It stands upon a plain 2,000 feet above sea level. A small lake near the Notch gate is the source of the Saeo, and the Ammonusuc is also supplied from springs on the same plain. A. T. & O. F. Barron are the proprietors of the house, and C. H. Merrill, Esq., their popular associate in the management. This is the house naturally chosen by visitors to the Notch, being located at the very gates, and is also a convenient halting place for those passing through from North Conway, or returning to that point. Tourists formerly ascended from this house to the summit of Mount Washington by bridle path, but, since the opening of the Mountain Railway, the path has fallen into disuse and is out of repair. The house is, in every respect, first-class and accommodates some three hundred guests. Near to the house"Itre •in«;s ning and and the ill 110 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. I; f i '*' liii i m'^ t * GIBBS' FALLS, SO na.n)ed for a former Ismdlord of the hotel. They are reached by a walk of a half hour from the hotel. Here the brook makes a leap of nearly forty feet, in two sheets of white foam, separated by a small islet, on which a lone pine tree stands guard. A succession of lesser falls on the same stream will tempt you to further exj)loration. beecher's falls cascade, only about a half mile from the hotel, is upon the little mountain brook whic^h flows down the slope to the right of the road, reached by a shaded pathway. In one of the pools of this stream the eminent divine whose name they bear was "immersed," not intentionally, but like other men, he " fell." He describes the brook as, at one point, " whirling itself into a plexus of cords," or a "pulsating braid of water." For more than a fourth of a mile, the stream sweeps down over rocks hung with moss, and through chan- nels worn in beautiful contour, arched with green leaves and luxuriant trees. The location of the house is on a fine plateau, and a pleas- ant grove in front gives ample lounging space, if you are dis- posed to take life easy and avoid the fatigue of continual sight-seeing and climbing. THE WHITE MOUNTAIN OR " CRAWFORD " NOTCH. Next to the ascent of Mount Washington, and previous to that if you do not return, you will wish to explore the attrac- tions of this widely-famed pass in the mountains. The pecu- liar grandeur of this vast and awful gorge cannot be described in words, and the artist transmits the grand out- lines but imperfectly. On either hand, the forbidding line of precipices tower above you in imposing grandeur, and you halt and turn to admire its savage ruggedness. It extends for a distance of about three miles^ running from northwest to southeast. The "Gate of the Notch" is in the near vicinity of the Crawford House,and is a chasm between pci*pendicular rocks, distant from each other but 22 feet; the diminutive stream NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. Ill flowing at one side is the commencement of the Saco River, which runs with rapid course and increasing volume through the fairest of valleys to the sea. Riding down the Notch from the Crawford House, througli the •* gates," you pass within the wild gorge, and if you have a guide or companion versed in the localities of the great ravine, your eye and mind will be intent upon a series of views and objects, of which it were foolish to attempt minute description other than by name and general outline. Just before entering the "gates " a path diverges to the left, lead- ing to " The Elephant's Head. " Pulpit Rock " is a great overhanging column of stone, the form of which is best indicated by its name, a bold buttress or column. The "Baby," the "Young man of the Mountain" and the " Grandmother " will be pointed out, figures more or less distinct, formed by jutting masses of rock on the ragged walls. The * 'gates," at the entrance, are but 22 feet in width, and " Sentinel Rock " stands guard near the entrance. It is to be regretted that the line of the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad, now being graded through the Notch,necessitates the destruction of some of these curious outlines and destroys the natural wildness of the " Gates." The " Ojd Maid " is a most venerable specimen of the anxious and aimless class, while the "African Face" is of unmistakable Ethiopian outline, high up on a spur of Mount Willard to the right, as you ride down the Notch from the Crawford House. At a bend in the road, nearly a mile from the gateway, is one of the most impressive scenes in the Notch, where the gi-eat out- lines of Mounts Webster, Wiiley and Willard crowd in con- centrated sweeping lines upon the narrow way. Further ' k, at the Wiiley House, the pass is more open and the long range of walls on either hand have more of regularity, and the gorge is more open. THE WILLEY HOUSE. This house is located under the steep acclivity of Mount Wiiley, which rises some 2,C00 feet behind the house, and Hi m mt im h jt ■p. i J 'X' 112 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. opposite is ilic forbidding front of Mount Webster, t\w littlo Saco rivor flowing near by. The kind and liospitaldo Samiiol Willey, Jr., lived here at tiie time of tlio great ealamity. On the night of Monday, tiie 28th of August, 18'20, oecurrod that terrible storm whieh fed the mountain branches of the Saco and the Ammonusuc, and changed the limpid curnMit from a gentle running stream to a m id rush of whirling waters, breaking old bounds and roaring in lawless torrents, freighted with the loosened soil and trees swept from !tlio steep sides of the overhanging hills; during this terrible night the tragic disaster of the Willey House occurred; the house itself received no injury, but the frightencMl inmates who sought safety by flight from the ma I fury of the crashing slides, were found buried in the debris below. The faithful house dog, escaping unhurt, appeared at Conway, and ])y all the resources of brute intellect, sought to give tiilings of the calamity, failing in which he disapj)eared at the top of his speod,and afterwards, though occasionally seen, was missing. The father, mother, five children, and two hired mori perished; the bodies of two sons and a daughter were never found. The burial service of these victims of tragic death, as per- formed on the spot, are described as singularly impressive. The words of the solemn prayer of the good elder, offered with distinct and measured utterance, came back in slow and solemn echoes from the seamed walls of the circling moun- tains. The slopes of Mount Willey are quite bare, having only enough of soil to furnish root-hold for the scanty crop of dwarfed birdies that somewhat relieve the desolation of the scarred walls. Riding back from the Willey House the black mouth of the ** Devil's Den " is seen high up in the rocky front of Mount Willard. DRIVE TO THE SUMMIT OP MOUNT WILLARD. This safe and easy shaded ascent of ab^it two miles may be made in carriages from the hotel, or without difficulty by NOKTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 113 podostrians. Emorginjij from the forest you come out upon IX level plateau on the very verge of the sheer precipice, going down into the yawning depth of the Notch. It is a grand outlook — the key to the beauties of this famed mountain pass, and, if viewed under favorable lights, you linger upon the rooky plateau, lotli to lose the impression of the actual scene — the gi*and outlines of the gorge, the winding road through the whole extent, the famed ** Willey House," the track of slides upon the bold slopes of either mountain, and the sparkling line of the mountain brooks leaping in gleam- ing and sinuous falls down the fugged walls ; perhaps, over all, a roof of clouds lying before you in the soft sunlight, " Through which the Rainmits tower Like to p iliicei of spur Built on a aea of pearl." The stillness of the gi*eat height and the gi'and sublimity of the landscape can but impress the beholdo^ with admira- tion and awe. It seems possible to throw a stone upon the roof of the Willey House, so deceptive is the disbince. From this point you look also upon the " Flume and Silver Cascades," and down the grand line of marshaled summits which en- close this wild pass in the direction of North Conway. THE FLUME, a brook pouring through the worn chasm or rent in the solid rock, on the side of Mount Webster, is noted as one of the beauties of the Notch,leaping through the curious zigzag chan- nel of stone in noisy and picturesque disturbance on its way to join the waters of the fair Saco. THE SILVER CASCADE, above the Flume, and a sort of continuation of the same, slides down the mountain side for a mile, in windings, leap- ings and turnings innumerable; now in a broad sheet of whitened foam, again divided in several streams, narrowing to a swift current through the worn and narrow channel. The view from the rude bridge, or from a point at the base of the fall," is of unrivalled interest and beauty, and from all 114 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. < l!il The Silver Cascade, points this mountain cascade is one of the attractions by no means to be passed by. Yon will linger by its whitened tor- rent with increasing admiration. Parties from the Crawford House can visit these falls at a very trivial expense. FALLS ON AVLANCIIE BROOK. These fails are about six miles from the Crawford Hons(N on Mount Willey, ujpon a stream which flows down the slope of the mountain, near the track of the memorable land slide, and joins the Saco below the Willey House. Following this brook, now known as Ripley's or Avalanche brook, nearly two miles up the mountain, a grand cascade bursts upon the view, falling between granite walls of picturesque forms and wonderful shaping. The commencement of these falls is a succession of ro(;ky steps some fifty feet wide, contfnuing in a p«p»p House, he slope n\ sliiU;, ing this nearly ipon the rms Jinil falls is a ing in ii NORTHEUN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 115 widening incline, broken into sweeping curves, through the solid rock into the reservoir at the foot. These falls are now christened the ** Sylvan Glade Cataract." A mile further up the brook is a lesser series of falls called the " Spai kling Cascade," worthy of a visit. This tour of the Notch including the ascent of Mount Willard, should by no means be omitted in your mountain trip ; the lavish display of wildness and bold scenes ar.d out- lines calls to mind the lines of the Yankee rhymester— *' Dame Nature once, while coating well This fiery mass o'er which we dwell, Had surplus left of ends and outs, These uiaases rast in ruin thrown By streamlet worn and moss o'ergrown, In winrowed heaps lie hereabouts." r,i m CHAPTER VII. From Mount Washington, or the Crawford House, to North Conway, or the Glen House. Leaving the level plateau at the Crawford House, and en- tering at the ** Gates of the Notch", you pass by gradual de- scent and rough and winding roadway, over bridges which span the rocky channels of mountain torrents, with the cu- rious rock figures on either hand upon the ragged walls, and the bold outlines of the grand pass to the front and rear. Passing the famed Willey House, the tragic story of which was briefly told in the preceding chapter, and the graves of the unfortunate inmates who perished here on that fearful night, and continuing down the Notch, from the Willey House, you emerge from its gloom and grandeur and pass through enclosing forests in a southeasterly direction, the towering masses of the Giants' Stairs (3,500 ft.) Mt. Resolu- tion and Mt. Crawford (3,400 and 3,200 ft. respective eleva- tions) loom up to the left ; the Saco, swelled by many moun- tain streams and greatly increased in volume since you lis- tened to its noisy but invisible flow among the rocks at the Notch entrance, flows by the roadway. The old Mount Crawford House is next reached, once an important rendezvous for tourists, hunters and anglers, now kept as a boarding house. Mount Washington is sometimes ascended from this point by a route not of late much patron- ized, but ottering great attractions to the genuine lover of na- ture. This spot is of interest as being the former residence of old Abel Crawford, and is six miles distant from the Willey II !l 1 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 117 House. The amount of teaming past this place through the Notch in the early days, before the day of railroads, was im- mense ; an'old resident tells of counting for a single day the teams passing from above and below at this point, reaching the number of three hundred, only two or three of which were single teams. About a half mile further on is Nancy's Brook, from its associations, a place of sad interest. It was here in 1778 that an unfortunate girl, deserted by her lover, perished from ex- posure, in the vain attempt to overtake the recreant deserter by a foot journey through this, then, almost impassable route. A stone, known as *' Nancy's Rock" is pointed out as a mark of the tragedy. Further on is a great bend in the road and river around Hart's Ledge where Sawyer's river is crossed. harts' location is the present terminus of the Portland and Ogdensburg Riiilroad, now building through the notch, and stages from the Fabyan house and Mt. Washington Railway connect here with trains to and from Portland and the east. From this point to Bartlett the valley of the Saco is closely followed, in an easterly direction, and sawyer's rock, at Upper Bartlett is passed. One Nash, the discoverer of the puss known as the Notch, was associated with Sawyer in the first transportation of a horse through the rough gorge — then a work of difficulty. When the last obstruction was over- come, their emptied rum bottle was dashed against this high rock, and Sawyer's Rock has been the name it has since borne. Sawyer's River is the small stream here crossed. The building of the road through to the Notch was an under- taking of gi-eat importance, in the days when it was attempt- ed, with the limited means for caiTying out the project. From this point the way is still along the valley of the Saco and passes the neat little ** Chapel of the Hills'* upon the right, a tasty building erected by summer residents. The three peaks of Mt. Can'igan (4,800 feet, highest elevation) a bold mass of peaks little known in descriptive works, be- m! if'! I 118 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. ing outside of all usual routes of travel, loom up to the right and rear. Stanton Mountain and the WhUe Ledge are promi- nent to the left, and BARTLETT is reached — a scattered settlement lying along the valley of the Saco. The Bartlett House is the half way or halting sta- tion on the route from the Crawford to the Glen Hous6, dis- tant 15 miles from the former, and 20 miles from the latter. From this village the tourist may pass directly on to North Conway, with charming views of the famed Conway Inter- vals and the grand and massive pyramidal mass of Mt. Fe- quaket or Kiarsarge before you, crossing the east branch of the Saco near the Interval House. Of this beautiful village — the key to the mountain region, when approached from the east, see chapter on " North Conway and surroundings." TO THE GLEN. A large number will diverge at Bartlett and continue the regular route to the Glen House, along the valley of the Ellis River, through Pinkham Notch. GOODRICH FALLS, upon the Ellis River, will be the first feature of promin- ence to attract your attention ; this is the heaviest fall in the mountains in perpendicular descent. From the old bridge in front of the fall a good view may be obtained, also from the shore below, and from the rocks on the right bank. Continuing northward you will ei^joy grand surprises as the massive ridges of the White Mountain range burst occas- ionally into view. THE TOWN OP JACKSON, a mile beyond the falls, is noted for the value and variety of the minerals there found. Iron Mountain is nearly 3,000 feet high, and with Thorn Mountain is rich in veins of iron ore. Tin (the first found in the United S' ss,) and copper ores are also found, with other valuable minerals. On the way from Goodrich Falls, Jack- son Falls and the Jackson Falls House are passed before reaching the rural NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 119 e right promi- illey of ng sta- je, dis- Latter. North Inter- Vit. Pe- h of the ge — the le east, nue the he Ellis 3romm- 11 in the ridge in rom the rises as it occas- iriety of Thorn bund in th other Is, Jack- before JACKSON CITY, a city only in name; and sweeping around the base of Eagle Mountain and climbing through thick forests continue on through the desolation of PINKHAM NOTCH, or Pinkham Pass, which takes its name from the family of early settlers of that name who, in April 1790, tenanted a log house, previously erected, which they found buried in the deep snows of that inclement season. The ingenuity of one of the boys in harnessing the pig (their only live stock) , to the hand-sled, containing the entire outfit of the family, is narrated by Willey in his *' Incidents of White Mountain History;" he also relates the incidents of the fearful tornado of 1821, which swept the town. Passing the ways leading from the road to Glen Ellis Falls and the Crystal cascade, which we shall visit from the Glen House, by the contiguous sources of the Ellis and Peabody Kivers, and along the increasing and musical line of the lat- ter stream. Mount Carter being occasionally seen to the right, yon ride through forests, charmingly festooned with mosses, cross the bridge on the Peabody River, pass the carriage road to Mount Washington to the left, and ascend to the hos- pitable shelter and enjoyment of the startling views so pecu- liar to the location of the GLEN HOUSE, W. & C. R. MiLLiKEN, proprietors. This house is situated within the vast hollow, bounded by a rim of mountain peaks, and more than 1,600 feet above sea level. Mount Wash- ington is in view from its grounds. Adams, Jefferson, Clay, and Madison circle away to the northeast in impressive grand- eur, seamed with the scars of terriffic slides and desolating torrents. Mount Adams appears, from this point, the high- est, but less burly and mjyestic than Washington. Mount Carter is in the rear of the Glen House, and from its side the tourist who takes the trouble to climb through the forests to a favorite point of view, will gain an unob- structed outlook upon the five great peaks of the mountain 120 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. CO O h9 range fi-om Washington northward — Chiy, Jeflfersoh, Adams and Madison. The traveler who makes his stay at this house for a time, will be at no loss for lack of the wonderful and the beautiful to excite and charm away the hours. The house itself is one of the largest and most commodious «in the mountains, in appearance like two buildings, connected by a central one, giving a long' front of piazza, and overlooking the Peabody River and the great mountain range. Stage lines connect with Eastern Railway trains at North Conway NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 121 and "with Portland and Ogdenshnrg Railroad at Nortli Con- way and Bartlett, also stage line through Bartlett to Craw- ford House. Autumnal catarrh and hay fever are unknown troubles with the patrons of this house. The house is opened June 12th, for visitors, and an excel- lent band of music is in attendance for promenading and dancing in its spacious halls in the pleasure season. Visitors to the Notch may ascend to the summit by the can'iage road, and descend by the Mountain Railway to the Fabyan or White Mountain House, and from thence to the Crawford House at the Notch. But there are numerous objects of interest in and around the Glen which will be visi- ted before making the ascent. PEABODY RIVER runs in front of the hotel, and distant about a mile. On the same are those curious proofs of the effects of continued ac- tion of running water upon solid rock, known as the *' Gar- net Pools," where the solid gi*anite bed is worn for some dis- tance into curious and peculiar forms, which can but inter- est you. On the road to Conway, over which you have come from Bartlett, a more leisurely visit will enable you to see those curiosities in nature which so greatly add to the attractions at this point. THE EMERALD POOL, nc.ir the roadway, is a charming reservoir of water from the river, in delightful quiet, and should not be omitted in the sights of the region. About two miles from the hotel are THOMPSON'S FALLS, on a brook of no great rise, leading into the Peabody River, extending for nearly three-foiuths of a mile in a succession of lovely, broken falls, of easy descent, without presenting any startling features, but with much of picturesque beauty, and the climb alo.ng the wild stream brings you to points from which you gain glorious mountain views. k !■ 122 I fill-' ill NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. CRYSTAL CASCADE. These cascades are reached by a path diverging from the road about throe and one-half miles south of the hotel, and leading up the side of the great mountain; following this for hklf a mile, you reach the top of a jutting spur overhanging a water-chiseled chasm, through which a bright stream gur- gles with hoarse murmuring, while, from far up on the mountain side, the crystal cascade comes gliding down; light, feathery and white as the snow, come the pure waters of the stream, descending from the side of Mount Washing- ton, under the walls of Tuckerraan's Ravine — a long, sheer descent of successive leaps and turns. Tuckennctn's Ravine may be reached by following this stream from the Cascade by a path known as Thompson's path, which leaves the carriage road some two miles from the base of Mount Washington, but is perhaps oftener explored by descending into it from the summit. This long, deep ravine, in the southern slope of the mountain, is filled to great depth by the accumulated snows of winter; the summer heats usually dispel the immense snow bank during the month of August. In the process of melting, the gradual wear of the streams sometimes forms a grand arch of snow, of magnifi- cent proportions, and worn by melting processes into beauti- ful forms and outlines. The "Snow Arch" formed by the waters from "a thousand streams" running under and melt- ing the snow is grand in the extreme, in the early part of August. This grand ice arch sometimes extends for two or three hundred feet, supported by ice pillars standing on boulders which prevent the melting of the column of ice resting upon them; but the long summer eventually tells upon the frigid mass and the ice-palace vanishes in humid mists. GLEN ELLIS PALLS ' are about four miles from the Glen House-r-reached by tak- ing a footpath leading from the main road through a pine thicket, which speedily brings you to the brink of a rocky precipice, above a narrow gorge overhung* with dark masses NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 123 of foliage. Descending this cliflf by the irregular natural steps and rude artificial helps, you reach the bottom of a dark chasm and stand upon the brink of a foaming caldron of emerald water, and glancing upwards, you can see the stream leaping seventy feet at a single bound from a worn channel of the rock. The scenery around this water-fall combines all the elements of beauty, wildness and startling contrast, which the most romantic could expect or desire. FROM THE GLEN HOUSE. This is still a favorite way of scaling the side of the central summit of the mountains. The road winds along the moun- tain-side a distance of eight miles from the hotel to the Mount Wasliington House, and is both safe and easy of as- cent. This road was finished in 1861, after six years of la- bor, and has an average grade of little less than one foot in eight, from which it varies in no great degree. The time oc- cupied in making the ascent is about three hours. The low- er half of the journey is by a winding way through forests, emerging at the " Ledge" upon the bare wall of the moun- tain, and winding along the brink of the Great Gulf, across which you look upon the entire slopes of Mounts Jeflferson, Adams and Madison ; and, continuing on, it overlooks the Glen and the valley through Pinkham Pass, and up the val- ley of the Peabody River toward Gorham. The views widen and increase in scope and gi'andeur as you approach the summit, which seems to develop itself anew as you continue to rise over successive ridges. There is neither danger nor inconvenience in this way of ascent. Baggage wagons accompany the passenger carriages, enabling parties to descend on the other side by railway to the Fayban, White Mountain, Twin Mountain or Crawford House, as their inclination may lead. The view from the summit has been previously described, as have also the accommodations for a night among the clouds, or a longer stay if you are enamored with the novel experience of life at an elevation of 6,300 ft. above sea level. Before the building of the carriage road the ascent was tire- some and attended with danger. * n I 124 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. Near the summit, on the road, is the Lizzie Bourne mon- ument, previously noticed. It is a pyramid of rough stones surmounted by a slab. Miss Bourne perished from exposure on this spot in 1855. In company with two male relatives she attempted the ascent of the mountain without a guide, and, bewildered and chilled, perished from exposure in the immediate vicinity of the summit houses. We have again brought you to the summit and again leave you to choice of ways, no longer wanting, by which to de- scend. While at the Glen House many will wish to take the pleasant trip to Gorham, on the Grand Trunk Railway, in {he Androscoggin valley, distant from the Glen some eight miles. Stages from the Glen Housp connect with all trains over the Grand Trunk Railway at this point. Going north- ward from Gorham. those wishing to make the circuit of the mountains, or to visit Franconia and the western side, on their return may take the Boston, Concord & Montreal trains at Northumberland and return southward via I^ancaster, Littleton, and Plymouth and Lake Winnipisaukee. i:.^K::r i\ CHAPTER VIII. NORTH CONWAY AND SURROUNDINGS. This charming village is reached by the popular boat, stage and rail route from Weirs across fair lake Winnipe- SHukee to Centre Harbor^ thence by the picturesque stage route to West Ossipee on the Great "Falls and Conway Rail- road and thence to destination by rail : giving great variety of scenery and novelty of experience. HOTELS. Of these there is no lack, and the visitor may suit his taste as to locality and style of entertainment. In the immediate vicinity of the new Eastern Railroad station is the new, large and commodious first class hotel, the Kia.ksa.kge House, kept by Messrs. Thompson, Son & Andrews. It will accom- modate three hundred guests, and is built and furnished on a scale of liberality which is sustained in the details of manage- ment. The building is lighted with gas, and the nearness to the station is a convenience to business men. The Interval House, kept by Mudgett & Son, is located under the slope of Mount Pequaket, or Kiarsarge, is within a beautiful enclosure of hills and surrounded by attractive points, easily reached by short walks from the Hotel. The buildings are comparatively new, and it will be found to be a centre of attractions for those who tarry at this point. The Sunset Pa.vilion, by Mason, is extensively patronized, and the manager and employees evidently intend that there shall be no lack of attention on their part to the wants of their patrons. The Mc Millan House is to the southward, in the I;. ;.; 126 NORTHERN, PLEA8UKE TRAVEL. t\ -r-^ direction of Artists* Falls, and th(5 North Conway House, by N. R. Mason, the Wasihnoton House and the Randall House all receive extensive patronage in the summer months. The Mason House is a new and elegant hotel, complete in its furnishing, kept by the senior Mason, formerly of the Sun- set Pavilion, so long and favorably known to the traveling public. The Randall House is a commodious and well furnished hotel, kept by J. T. Randall, Esq., well known to frequent- ers of this fair village for several years. Carriages connect with the railroad trains from all the hotels. This romantic village is the centre of resort in the Saoo valley, and the key to the mountain region from the south- east. The village lies upon a plain of some four or five miles long by three wide, overlooking the intervales of the Saco, which is here a stream of several rods in width, forda- ble in many places and flowing over a bed of the purest stones and pebbles, worn and washed to smoothness and whiteness by the pure waters. The stream is liable to rapid rising at times, to the great danger of those having property upon its banks ; at the time of the Willey disaster it rose twenty-four feet in a single night. The smiling intervales or meadows are noted for their beauty, and the distant view of the giant peaks of the White Mountains to the northward, looking up the Saco valley, is considered one of the finest in the State, the distance soften- ing all harsh and rugged outlines into beautiful curves and combinations. To the northeast of the village, PEQUAKET, or Kiarsarge Mountain rises, a lone, swelling sumn. sym- metrical in outline, surmounted by the hotel clamped U> th rocks of the very summit. The elevation is 3,367 feet, and ii stands like an immovable sentinel upon the outpost of the grim host of hills. The ascent can be made with horses, or by pedestrians, without difficulty, to the very summit. From this highest southern elevation there is a magnificent view of the NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 127 syni- l loth , antl it of the IS, or by •om this v of the whole army of hills to the north and west, including the whole White Mountain Range, and of the graind central dome. Mount Washington, and Mount Lafayette, of the Franconia gi'oup. The fair valley of the Saco can be follow- ed from near its source in the mountain fastness far on its course to the sea. To the east lie the reaches of level coun- try in Maine and the waters of fair Sebago and' the lesser lakes. There is a range of rugged hills to the east called '* Rattle- snake Ridge," and ** Mote Mountain" to the southwest, with the sharp pyramids of old Chucorua in the same direction, but in the far distance. Starr King says ** we have seen no other region of New England so swathed in dreamy charm," — that at times " the spiritual heights, from which nature issues, unseal their op- ulence, and send the freshet of bloom — times when the finer • light in light' will break its bounds, and the whole valley, will turn into a goblet brimming with beauty too liberal to be contained by the mountain walls that are tinted with its weird waves." THE LEDGES, upon the face of Mote Mountain, rise almost perpendicularly in !i rocky face of several miles extent, reaching at some points a height of eight hundred feet. In the ride to these ledges, from the village, by the road, through the fields and j)lains, the sparkling waters of the Saco are twice forded. ECHO LAKE is a gem among the mountain lakes, unruffled by the slightest breeze, sleeping beneath the rocky walls and reflecting the Ix'ld outline of overhanging cliffs. The blast of a horn and the sound of the voice are clearly and sharply echoed from the clifts, sometimes, with a slight re-echo, but wanting the resounding repetition of the like named wonder at Fran- conia. THE CATHEDRAL. In the wall of the great ledges, next visited, is a cave of for- ty feet in depth by some sixty feet in height ; you stand within it, as within a wide, rough granite alcove in the face *my Sir . ill titi m -t.. 128 NORTHERN PLEASURE THAVEL. of the wall, the forest trees stsmding in audience before you ami shading the light which falls within. Along the seamed walls the work of the silent forces of the frost are seen at the base ; great (lakes and blocks pried off the granite face of the walls by freezing wedges of ice, lie in confusion, and oth- ers seem hanging only by the slightest hold, which the next frost wedge will loosen and hurl below. devil's den. In the debris at the foot of the ledge, not far from the Ca- thedral, formed by a huge scale of granite, sliding over a mass of loose blocks, is the " Devil's Den," an enclosed space in the fallen mass entered by creeping through a tortuous passage. By lighting a fire in this cave you can take a lunch ^ with no fear of disturbance from his Satanic majesty, and to the gi'eat delight of the juveniles. Thompson's Falls must not be forgotten in the visit, and DIANA'S BATHS are another wonder which should be seen by all. Another way, through pastures and forests, and you reach a small mill, above which the stream from the forest flows over a bed of the whitest granite, flecked with crystals. Ordinarily the flow of water is not large, but the solid granite bed is worn in every conceivable form, dropping in steps at irregular in- tervals, and filled with wells worn in the solid surface by whirling eddies and revolving boulders, seamed by the switt and continual flow of ceaseless currents into curious and fan- tastic grooves. Un!' ss swollen by unusual rains you need not look for startling or overwhelming features ; but for curi- ous and beautiful combinations it is worthy of a visit, and will impress itself indelibly on the memory. artist's falls. These charming falls are to the south of the village, in a picturesque and shaded place, and are widely known in prints and pljotographic representations. All will wish to look upon the beautiful fall among the wild combination of rocks and shading trees ; but here, as in nearly all the charms around North Conway, look rather for quiet loveliness than for tlie NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 129 overpowering and forbidding aspects presented in the imme- diate vicinity of the mountains. DRIVES. Though you may remain for weeks at North Conway, you may have a new drive or walk of absorbing interest each day of your stay. Excursions to Chucorua Lake and Gould's Pond, to Conway Corner, to Fryeburg, once a very important village, built on a broad plain within a wide sweep of the S:ico, aro often made. Near by is Lovewell's Pond, with tiiickly wooded shores, near which was fought that desperate b.vttle with the Indians, so terrible in the slaughter of both the whites and savages— one of the most fierce and obstinate of the encounters with the Pe^uaket Indians. The com- mand "^r, Capt. LovewoU, and more than a quarter of the whole white force, fell at tlio first onset, but the fight con- tinued for ten hours, when the savages retired. An excursion to Jackson and the Cascades, on the branch of the Ellis Riv- er, should not be omitted. CHUCORUA. That " rocky m iss of bare granite spires and shafts," the shirpest pinnacle of the entire region, excepting M)unt Adams, reaches an elevation of 3,360 feet. The scaling of its upright ledges is esteemed a test of courage and strength. It - may be reached from Conway. The Bearcamp River II)use, at West Ossipee, a favorite point of departure under its former management, will be sus- tained and improved by*the pre'.ont proprietors. A fine view of the mountain and the surrounding country is had from this point, and teams are furnishe I for excursionists, sportsmen ami others. J. H. Plumraer, Ilsq., is the present proprietor. It is a cosy and delightful loitering place. CONWAY. N. H. This quiet valley town, on the banks of the S ico, though forgotten and overshadowed by the places of more general resort, has great charms for those who have learned to enjoy it8 quiet and the beauty of the surrounding landscape. The 1, i' i . ■iU I J ^ 130 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL Conway House, L. H. Eastman proprietor, is one of the larg- est and best of the hotels of this region, providing for guests all substantial comforts. The livery stable is one of the best connected with any of the country hotels. Patrons are taken to all points of interest in the mountain region, and the many drives are unsurpassed in their attractions. Anglers find this a favorite place at which to spend a few days or weeks. The Fequaket House is a smaller but commodious and well kept hotel. CHAPTER IX. AROUND GORHAM. i ? The Androscoggin valley and the hills that enclose it, with the noble outlook from neighboring elevations, make a visit there a pleasure to live in memory, and Gorham is the point where the tourist naturally tarries. Mount Garter, Mount Moriah, and the lesser and central " Imp," are three prominent features in the landscape to the south ; the first 5,000 feet in height, the second 4,700 feet, and the three forming the eastern slope of the Glen. The outline of Mount Moriah is a series of curves and flowing lines, softened by the luxuriant forests which clothe its waving slopes. Mount Cai*ter is rugged, scarred and seamed, in the long slope which it presents to vie^' at this point. RANDOLPH TXL, five miles fh>m the village, is an elevation from which the finest imaginable view of the surrounding mountains may be had, and is a favorable point from which to study the rare combinations of the wild and rugged landscape. THS PILOT HILLS, to the northwest, are grand in outline, and in a deep cleft of the range the ice and snow, among the immense granite blocks in th^ cold shadows of the ravine, defy the extreme heat of the warmest lommer. The Androscoggin Hills lie along to the eastward. The noble outline of Mount Hayes to the northeast being the most prominent peak. 182 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. DRIVES. A stay of a few days at this point enables the tourist to en- joy the fine drives in this vicinity. The drive to the Lead Mine Bridge, four miles from the village, near the abandoned lead mine, and noted as a favorable site from which to view the valley of the Androscoggin, with its chain of green isles and background of noble mountains, arid the ; great White Mountains, robbed by the distance of their forbidding aspects, but standing out in noble outline in the vast picture here pre- sented. There is also the drive to Shelburne, six miles be- low, and the view from Bald Cap Mountain; to Berlin Falls, six miles above the village — a series of rapids, where, for nearly a mile, the Androscoggin sweeps in a long, rapid de- scent, much admired for its wild beauty and fascinating power. ASCENT OF MOUNTAIN SUMMITS. The climbing of Mount Surprise (1,200 feet elevation,) by bridle-path requires no undue exertions, and the view com- mands an unobstructed sight of the great mountain range, and looks directly upon the wildest and most rugged scenery of the hills and the Androscoggin valley. "" No summit so easily reached commands so wide and charming a view as this. Mount Hayes (so named in honor of a former landlady of the Alpine House,) may also be ascended by bridle-path, affording a view in which Mount Washington stands out in all its m^yesty and grandeur, and the winding valley of the Androscoggin, with its clean banks, many islands and noble enclosing hills, is seen for a score of miles. Mount Moriah may be now ascended by footpath. From this summit of 4,700 feet elevation, reached by a path throui;h thick forests and over bare ledges of the mountain side, the outlook is upon the sea of summits in a circle broken only upon the southwest by the open country of Maine. * FROM OORHAM TO THE NOTCH. ' *rhe route to the Notch from Gorham by the Cherry Moun- tain road, a distance of thirty-two miles, affords a series of glorious views during the entire journey, enabling the trav- i '!, NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 133 eler to avail himself of the extensive prospect from Randolph Hill, before mentioned, and a changing succession of pano- ramic pictures of the great range seen from this northern line of travel ; especially is the view from the road in Jeft'er- son one to be forever remembered, sweeping, as it does, a wide line of summits standing in a vast arc of circling maj- esty. At the point where the Waumbek House is located, at the base of Starr King Mountain (3,800 feet elevation) the finest view is had. At this house many halt for dinner, and for the enjoyment of the view from its piazzas. A path leads up the mountain from this house, and a prolonged stay can- not fail to be a pleasant one. In the valley fronting the hotel is the peculiar mound, sometimes called the " Sleeping Gi- ant," from a seeming resemblance to a giant human form lying upon his back. To the southwest, in clear weather. Mount Washington and the attendant peaks appear to be in near proximity. The Franconia range is to the west, and the Pilot Mountains to the north. This house is distant 17 miles from the Notch, 13 miles from the Fabyan Place, and 28 miles from the Profile. The route from this point to the Profile House is through the growing and enterprising town of White- field, and over the hills of Bethlehem. The road to the Crawford House or the Fabyan House is along the valley towards the source of Israel's River, and the valley of the Ammonusuc, passing through the town of Carroll and along tile base of Cherry Mountain (3,219 feet elevation), beauti- fully wooded to the summit, with the peak of ** Owl's Head " at its northern extremity. I. CHAPTER X. HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE. In sober matter-of-fact New England, the wild region of the mountains is peculiarly bare of that historical interest and legendary lore which has given to every crag and ravine of Scotland and Switzerland a name and fame in romance and story; the names, even, of the grandest peaks and gorges, excepting the few musical ones of Indian origin, lack the merest suggestion of romantic beauty. One Darby Field appears to have been the first white man who looked from the highest summit upon the wild and rug- ged country below. His story, like that of most early dis- coverers, was garnished with accounts of shining stones and riches in prospect. Vines und Gorges, magistrates of Sir Fernando Gorges, went thither in the fall of the same year, (1642), ascending the Saco in canoes; they appear to have climbed one of the highest summits and made report not re- m.'irkable for accuracy. An early chronicler has described the country to the north of the principal summit as " daunt- ing terrible, being full of rocky hills and clothed with in- finite thick woods," and as a proof of his theory that the mountains were hollow, cites the "resounding of the rain" upon the rocky summits. The Great White Mountain Notch was discovered in 1791 by two hunters — Nash and Sawyer. In 1816, a party of scientific gentlemen made extensive bo- tanical collections, and determined altitudes. In 1820, the whole range was explored by a party from Lancaster, alti- tudes of the highest summits were estiiblished and the nioun- "WIIIP' NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 135 tains received the names by which they have since been known. With the early settlement of this rugged and forbidding region the name of the Crawfords is inseparably connected » as opening the first ways of ascent to the mountain summits and preserving a thorough knowledge of the hills. The tragic story of the Willey family is told in preceding pages, and is, perhaps, so familiar as to need no repetition. The desolate experiences and hardships of the isolated pioneers whose names even are forgotten, who first established their rude homes in this rugged and forbidding land, die out with the grey heads of the venerable actors, but perseverence so marked and sufferings so unselfish should have been pre- served by the genius of some American Scott, or live in the songs of a Whittier, through the passing years. In climbing the highest summits, the tourist passes first through the dense woods around their bases, lessening in height and thinning to the hardier varieties as tlic path enters the region of dwarfed shrubs and clinging mosses, and, finally, emerges upon the bare and desolate rocks of the higher peaks bearing no mark of the action of the waves or' of drift, clothed only with lichens, mosses, and such plants as are peculiar to Polar regions. Many of the lesser moun- ain3 are baautifiiUy wooiled over their entire summits. The mountains, in winter, present to the appreciative ob- server the rarest beauty. Until within the last few years few travelers have had the hardihood to inspect its scenery when clothed in the snowy mantle which veils the summits for so many months. For the last four winters parties have resided through the entire season upon the summit of Mount Wash- ington, in the interest of science, and have made valuable observations regarding the strength of the winds, the tem- perature and phenomena of these high altitudes, and wit- nessed the sublime and novel scenes presented from this elevation through the inclement months. Traces of the Indians once inhabiting the mountain region are frequently found near the rivers and the ponds — about Conway, Fryeburg and Ossipee their implements, moimds ) ,3 136 NOBTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. r *K h'i^ '[ ^ ,J . hi and encampments are seen, and their musical tongue is pre- served in the names of Chucorua, the Femigewasset, Am- monusuc, Winnipesaukee, Androscoggin and other streams. They had the highest reverence for '* The Mountains of the Snowy Forehead," by some called Waumbek Melhna^ "Moun- tains of the White Rock." Among them, as with nearly all people, there was a legend of a deluge ; one mighty and spot- less chief and his squaw being taken by a whirlwind to the crowning summit, while all others perished. It was com- monly belit^ved among them that no intruders on these peer- less 'summits ever returned alive, and that the mighty ruler of the Fennacooks, while coming with messages from the Great Spirit, was borne to the happy hunting grounds in a chariot of flame. Of the family of Crawfords, so identified with White Mountain history, Abel Crawford was the pioneer, making a home on the " Giants' Grave," now levelled in the grounds of the Fabyan House. The name is preserved in the naming of many localities, and a mt^estic mountain peak, while the descendants are a hardy and noble race. One of the ladies 'who courageously climbed to the summit of Mt. Washington during the past winter was a descendant of this family. Bare of historic interest and legendary charm, and want- ing in geological features of great peculiarity, these imperial hills by the simple majesty of their outlines and the bold combination of their masses, attract, each year, an army of tourists, surpassed only by the charms of Niagara. CHAPTER XI. NORTHWARD TO THE CANADAS. MONTREAL. ^mmft 'i Leaving Northumberland, by either day or night trains, (parlor cars), over the Grand Trunk Railway, North Stratford station is the point of departure for Colebrook and Dixvillo Notch, (regular stage linos connecting), and Island Pond is the point where through express trains stop for refresh- ments. ' The Island Pond House . is connected with the depot by covered way and is well and favorably known as a dining station or place for longer stay ; Bartlett & Stone are the proprietors. Sherbkooke — the station where the Passumpsic route ^ I lib. \'i' 138 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. unites with the Grand Trunk— is a thriving and important Canadian town, having manufacturing interests of impor- tance. The Siiekbkooke House, W. Chamberlain, proprietor, is an old and well known first-class hotel, thoroughly refurnished and refitted where you can be well cared for ; and at the Continental, a new commodious and well managed hotel, P. A. Camiuand, Esq., proprietor, guests will be faithfully cared for. From Sher- brooke the route is northward to RICHMOND, (Junction with the Quebec Division), thence westwani through Durham, Acton, Upton, Brittinia Mills, St. Hya- cinthe, Soirante, Beloeil and St. Lambert, through the Vic- toria Bridge, to the great northern city of MONTREAL. Reaching this Canadian metropolis, by either of the ways of approach described under the heads of routes, your first question will, no doubt, be for a place at which to tarry dur- ing your stay. At the o H K O tn K ■■?!i ■ ('■ fTT" 140 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. li. l! .^.njji MONTREAL HOUSE, Custom House Square, Decker & Co., proprietors, recently remodeled and refitted throughout, you will find all the requisites for making your stay both comfortable and pleasant Located in full view of the great Victoria Bridge, neiir tin; landing of the foreign steamers and river boats,and conveni- ent to all points of interest. Decker & Co., the proprietors, have had long experience in the keeping of first-class hous<>s, and patrons will not be disappointed. Carriages furnished at the hotel for drives to all parts of the city and the surround- ings. The rooms are not surpassed by any hotel in the city, and no requisite of a first-class hotel will be found wanting. The large, airy rooms, healthful breeze from the river, sup- plemented by faithful attendance^ and reasonable charges, will reccommend the-house to your renewed patronage should you once make it your home. Space forbids mention of many other first-class houses of entertainment. This commercial and financial metropolis of the Can- adas is also the most populous of Cahadian cities — some 140, 000 souls. It is situated at the head of river navigation proper, 540 miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the Island of Montreal, which lies between the broad St. Law- rence and the rapid Ottawa — the two great rivers of the North. The island extends some thirty-two miles in length and ten in width, and is considered the garden of the Prov- inces. The surface is generally level, excepting the emin- ence of Mount Royal in the background, rising 550 feet above river level, and from which the city takes its name, Montreal being a shortening or modification of Mount Royal. The settlement of the town was determined upon by the first explorer, Jaques Cartier, in 1535, the site being that of the old Indian village of *' Hochelaga," but the permanent founding of the city did not take place till 1643, and in one hundred years of growth it gathered a population of only 4,000 souls; since then the growth has been rapid. - It was under French rule till 1760, when it passed into the hands of the English. In 1775 Ethan Allen made his mad attack upon the city with a handful of mep, and was defeated NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 141 and captured ; but shortly after, in the same year, Montgom- ery entered the city in triumph. The water communication with the city k^ Haid to be the most extensive of any city in the world so far inland. Hero, as at Quebec, are the lower and the upper town, though not so plainly separated by unmistakable natural ele- vations as in the more northern capital. The lower town is somewhat cramped and gloomy in the laying out of the narrow streets and styles of the buildings in the old French order, while the upper town has wide streets and squares, with large, imposing structures, built mostly of the greyish limestone of the region. The broad quays of solid limestone are unsurpassed by any on the continent, and, to accommodate the growing com- merce of this thriving inland port, the docks and basins are continually being improved and enlarged. Vessels from all parts of the world lie at its wharves ; ocean steamers of thre e thousand tons, and sailing vessels of twelve hundred tons can reach the city and be accommodated in the harbor. A wide t(Mrace, fVvced with grey limestone, crowned on the parap et by a durable iron railing, divides the city from the river. VIEW OF THE CITY. Approached by the river, by steamer from LSchine, the sight presented to the stranger is one of rare interest and beauty; the glittering spires and great domes and towers combine in royal proportions ; the enduring structures of cut stone stretch in a long line upon the river front. Mount Royal is in the background, and you pass beneath that great triumph of modern enterprise and engineering, THE VICTORIA BRIDGE, which serves the important purpose of giving uninterrupted rail communication between the Eastern States and Oanadas and the Great West. It is used only for railway transit and gives to the Grand Trunk Railway full control of railway approaches from the East. This great work, sometimes classed as the eighth artificial wonder of the world, was com- pleted in 1860, under the superintendence of Robert Stephen - m--': p' :d *- «'iiil siiii 142 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. son and his associates, and ii one and a quarter miles i n length, or two miles in(3luding the extensions. It is support- ed on twenty-four piers, the central span being three hundred and thirty feet, the remaining ones two hundred and forty- two feet, with massiVe abutments ; the bridge tube is of iro n, twenty-two feet high by sixteen wide, slightly lessening at the ends. It was erected at a cost of $ 6,300,000. The height of the center span above ordinary river level is sixty feet. Three million cubic feet of masonry and ten thousand tons of iron enter into the construction of th gigantic work. There is an opening in the center iiftbrding a magnificent river view. No railroad train is allowed to enter this bridge with- out a written perrhit from the proper officer, thus insuring exemption fi'om collision or accident; the passage is some- what cheerless, occupying some six minutes, though seeming much longer to the passenger. By obtaining a permit, at tlie office of the Grand Trunk Railway, tourists can inspect a por- tion of th^ interior of the bridge. The river beneath the bridge has a swift current and the piers are calculated to with- stand immense pressure from descending masses of ice. PLACES OP INTEREST. Of massive buildings, combining show of strength and per- manence with architectural beauty, there is no lack in Mon- treaL On Great St. James street the Post office is a beauti- ful building of cut stone ; ai\joining, and of more elaborate architecture, is the Bank of British North America; on the same street is the building constructed of sandstone, and per- haps the finest in the city, known as Molson^s Bank, and the fine building in the Italian style, with an elaborately decorat- ed lecture room, known as the Mechanic's Institute. On Notre Dame street, built in the Grecian, Ionic style, is the New Court House, of elegant proportions and material. The Old Government House is on the same street. The Nelson Monument, at the head of Jaques Cartier Square, is a column of grey limestone crowned with the fig- ure of the hero of Trafalgar. The Champ de Mars Is the parade ground for the garrison regiments and volunteer soldiery ; three thousand troops may ^■■-•- fl NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 143 lilcs in apport- undred I forty - of iro n, ning at J height cty feet. i tons of There nt river ge with- insuring is some- seeming it, at the jct a por- leath the 1 to with- ice. and per- : in Mon- Ei beauti- Dhvborate on the and per- , and the f decorat- 3 style, is material. s Cartier th the fig- I garrison roops may be reviewed upon it, and it is a favorite promenade for citi- zens. Here the fine bands of the regiments often discourse sweet music during the summer evenings. Facing this square is the Geological Museum with its extensive collection of specimens. Viger Square, near the Champ de Mars, is beautifully laid out as a garden, with conservatory, fountains, etc. On St. Catherine street is the English Cathedral, the most perfect specimen of Gothic architecture in America, sur- rounded by a cluster of lofty spires. Bonsecours Market is a magnificent edifice, the dome of which attracts attention as you land from the boat. The up- per stories contain the city offices, a magnificent hall or con- cert room which will seat 4,000 persons, and the rooms of the City Council most elegantly ornamented and arranged. The location is at the corner of Water and St. Paul streets. The McGill College, so called from Hon. James McGill, who liberally endowed the institution, has extensive build- ings and museum. St. Patrick's Hall was a fine building on Victoria square, but waj] destroyed by fire in 1872. The dry goods and hard- ware trade centres are on St. Paul street, which presents a fine line of warehouses. But the great centre of interest for stiangers is the French CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE DAME, reputed to be the largest church edifice in North America, holding within its walls 10,000. The building is two hundred and sixty feet long by one hundred and forty feet broad, and the two massive towers, flanking the front upon the square, rise two hundred and twenty feet. There is a famous peal of bells in the left tovcr, one of which is the famous " Gros Bourdon," weighing fifteen tons and having a deep bass into- nation. The prospect from the right tower, which can be ascended by payment of a slight fee, is wonderfully wide, looking out upon the broad waters, the islands and shipping of the St. Lawrence, the rapids of Lachine, the distant Ver- mont hills and the suburban villages. The Seminary of St. Sulpice a^oins the Cathedral and is surrounded by spacious IBI •144 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. « -<, if I ^Wt 15 £ gardens and court yards. In near vicinity, around this fine square, arc tiie noble buildings of the important Banking and Insurance Companies of the Dominion. DRIVES. The Canadian carriage is kept with scrupulous neatness, the drivers are your willing and obliging servants, knowing every inch of the routes by which they convey you, and tho prices, unlike American coaching fares, do not spoil the fiiir- est prospects by threatening total ruin to your finances. A vehicle drawn by two horses may be had at a charge of one dollar for first hour, and seventy-five cents for additional hours; for carriage witii one horse for one or two persons, fifty cents first hour, and forty cents for additional hours is about the usual charge ; and, for trips to the suburbs, charges vary with the number of the party and>di stance. Carriages will be found at tiie railway station, and the tourist can pro- ceed immediately on his ride througli the city if pressed for time. The drive of nine miles around the mountain, visiting the Mount Royal Cemetery, two miles from the city, on tho northern slope of Mount Royal, approached by a broad av- enue, and of itself well worth a visit, is a trip wlilch should by no means be omitted, aflbrding as it does commanding and attractive views of the Canadian metropolis and the great river of the North, which no lover of the beautiful and tho grand in landscape should fail to enjoy. The vicjws obtained from the Water Works Reservoir, a mile from the city, cut in the solid rock, are extensive and interesting. A drive down the river bank to Ljugue Point is in great favor with the people of the city, and will provo of interest to visitors. , The drive which, perh ips, will prove of greatest interest, is that of nine miles to the village of Lacliine. The Laehlno road leads along the banks of the St. Lawrence, and during this drive, by selecting the proper time, the descent of the steamer through the Rapids m ty be witnessed. The Ripids, below Lachine, have a fall of forty-four and a half feet, and the descent of these by steamer is one of the sensations of NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 145 is fine ig and itness, awing id tlie le fair- ies. A of one litional ersons, >iirs is ihai'ges ki-riages an pn)- ssed for ting tlie on the 'oad av- should ling and tie great and the rvoir, a sive and 10 Point 11 prove interest, Lichine d daring nt of the 3 Rip ids, feet, and itions of your visit. Every morning (in BUinmer) a train leaves the railroad station on Bonaven^ure street, at 7 o'clock a.m., for Lachine, connecting witii the small steamer at the railroad wharf, for the trip down the Rapids. Caughnawaga, the In- dian village opposite, is the point from which Baptiste, the renowned Indian pilot, comes out in his bark canoe to pilot the boats of the Canadian Navigation Company through the Rapids.. These Rapids offer the greatest obstacle to naviga- tion of any on the river, and that immense work, the Lachine Canal, eight and one-half milesi in length, was constructed to avoid this obstruction. Improvements about to be made will enable all descending steam craft to keep the river, leaving the canals exclusively to sailing vessels and ascending boats. The morning trip to Lachine, with the return by steamer through tiie Rapids, and beneath the largest and most noted bridge in the world, giving the favorite view of the city, and landing you again at the wharf by 9 o'clock a.m., will prove a vvontierful appetizer and a lasting pleasure. DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. From Montreal to Quebec passage may be made, during the season of navigation — usually from April to December — on one of the staunch and commodious steamers owned by the Richelieu Company, and called the ** Montreal" and the " Quebec." Leaving Montreal in the evening, (excepting Sunday evening,) passing the fort on the island in the harbor, leaving LoNGUEiL to the right, and passing the group of islands below the city and the mouth of the Ottawa river, you are fairly on the way to the old capital. Beloeil Moun- tain attracts attention to the eastward, and you cannot fail to be interested in the general appearence of the novel land- scape, a sort of '* Northern Holland," appearing in many in- stances frona the boat to be below water level; jin other pliices, as you progress, the shores slope in teri^ces, or wide steps, terminating in a ridge. SoREL or William Henry, forty-five miles below Mon- treal is the firgt station where a halt is made by the steamer. This Canadian town is built around a central square at the confluence of the St. Johns (otherwise known as the Rich- Hi N. 146 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. elieu or Sorel river) and the St. Lawrence. The St. John's or Richelieu River is peculiar in the fact that, at its outlet, it is narrower than at its source or through its course, being the northern outlet of Lake Champlain. There is immense transportation of lumber along its course. Some fifty miles below Montreal, and five miles below Sor- el, the broad river expands into a wide lake nearly twenty- five miles in length, and (at its widest) nine miles width, known as " Lake St. Peter," and interspersed with islands at its upper entrance ; though the wide expansion produces a shallow depth, the channel followed by shipping admits the passage of vessels of the larger class. The River St. Francis here enters the lake from the south. The scenery along the route may not prove of sullicient variety and interest to keep the traveler from needed rest through the long night hours, though the mighty river, draining through the lakes that immense valley, will never be without its suggestions of power ; and, when the moon, breaking from rolling curtains of cloud, tints the broad ex- panse, till it glitters like a vast surface of silver sparkling with diamond points of light, which fade and renew in the wake of the dancing silver waves which mark your progi*ess, the wakeful traveler will find no lack of suggestive sights in his midnight watch. A great amount of shipping of every class will be passed, and immense timber rafts will be observed in the descent, floating down to the great lumber mart at Quebec, some- times in single rafts and sometimes in many combined in a floating timber town, populous with hardy lumbermen, whose songs enliven the monotony of their voyugt;. The town of " Three Rivers," midway between Montrciil and Quebec,is one of tlie oldest settlements in Canadu.and li.is convent buildings and chiu ,a edifices of considerable arolii- tectural pretensions. The town was first settled in 1618, ;in;l has a population of nearly 6,000 souls. The River St. Mau- rice here joins tiie St. Lawrence and is divided at its month by islands into three distinct channels, (hence the name of the town " Three Rivei-s.") Immense quantities of log-» an^f i m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. O k s. "S? / i/.A 1.0 2.8 I.I If IIIIIM '' itt ',' 140 IM M 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 1 .^ — ^ III ^ 1 yj n Riotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 rt\ v S5 :\ \ 6^ ? * k'>^ 154 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAv'EL. ^ 4 f >. J 1£ ' 1' '> ij.f 'if ft manning point, guns of heavy calibre sweep every avenue of approach by the river; ditches, breastworks and frowning batteries command tlie approaches by land from the famed •' Plains of Abraham." The precipitous bluflfs, rising almost perpendicularly from the river, three hundred and forty feet, present a natural barrier which may be swept with murder- ous fire, and the covered ways of approach and retreat, the various kinds and calibre of guns, mortars, howitzers and munitions of war will be viewed with eager interest. The wide outlook from the river wall of the citadel will also enchain the attention of the visitor who is fortunate enough to look, in the soft light of the declining sun, upon the bold promontories, smiling fields, picturesque villages, glittering roofs and spires, wide, tranquil waters and distant plains and forests which combine in the wide and charming landscape. Across the river the view is directly upon the settlement of Point Levi, where, in 1775, the little army of Arnold rendez- voused, after that memorable march through the wilderness, and, made the mad attempt to dislodge the English forces within the city. Modern fortifications of great strength are being erected at this point. The identical spot where the brave Montgomery fell, in a winding sheet of snow in the cold December storm, is pointed out to you from the citadel walls, and, in your ride about the city, the low-roofed build- ing to which his remains were conveyed will be pointed out, as also the street where Arnold's forces were defeated and captured. Looking down the river the Island of Orleans, nineteen miles long and five and a half miles wide, swells in flowing curves from the river — a fruitful, populous and beau- tiful land. To the west you look upon the Plains of Abraham and the brink of the precipitous bluffs scaled by the dauntless Wolfe and his brave soldiery in that memorable surprise and victo- ry in 1759, immediately following the humiliating defeat at Montmorenci. Upon the spot where the brave commaniler fell, a granite shaft briefly tells the story of his victory and death, at the early age of thirty-three years. w NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. DRIVES. 155 There would seem to be no end to the points of interest to which the tourist may be taken in and around this ancient city, but one of the principal, and often the first, is the eight mile drive through St. John's gate, over an excellent, paved road, supported by tolls, through the suburb of St. Roche and Beauport, to the falls at the mouth of the small but rapid Montmorenci River, known as the o o H {^ O M As you cross the St. Charles River, in leaving the city, the vessels in process of construction attract attention. In the ^-j^mm 156 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. a 'I'^ill building of substantial and durable vessels Quebec has gained enviable fame. The scene along this drive is entirely French, the women perform the labor in the gardens and are seen going to and returning from market, in the odd market wagons drawn by Canadian ponies. The conversation of the native is in French. A few miles out you will be shown the unique and ancient cottage, where Montcalm had his headquarters at the time of the celebrated battle with Wolfe, and near which was fought the first and unsuccessful battle for the possession of the key to the Canadas. It is allowed to remain in its ancient con- dition, and is eagerly viewed by the thousands who pass it during the season of summer travel. On either side of the road from this point, in close proxim- ity to the street, are the quaint little Canadian cottages set at every imaginable angle with the road, white as the snow, in their summer coating of whitewash, with steep roofs, odd stone chimneys, and out-door ovens, all with a look of neat- ness an scene of the most daring military manoeuvres and signal victory of the time. On the spot where Wolfe fell, on this noted plain, is seen the modest monument to his memory, and the distance to the path by which the famed ascent of his army was made is not great. It is somewhat shorn of its rugged character by the leveling effects of time and the elements, but,is still precipitous and forbidding. ISLE OF ORLEANS. Do not omit, during your stay, to cross, by the feiTy boat, to this fair island, and take the drive around it, which offers that continuous and varying circuit of outlying scenery which you can ill afford to miss, including views of the Falls of Montmorenci, the Laurentian Mountains, Cap-Tourment, (1,100 feet in height), the villages upon either side in pictm*- esque surroundings, and the beauty of the fair isle itself, with the broad encircling river and the craft upon its bosom, and the grand old city of the north in the distance — all memora- ble points in the history of the olden times. CHAUDIERE FALLS, visited via Point Levi, on the river of the same name, nine ' miles below Quebec, have a descent of one hundred and thirty fe6t,the river being four hundred feet wide at this point. FISHING. Those making Quebec their headquarters for excursions for sporting, can easily reach, by steamer down the river, in the branches of the St. Lawrence, or in the Lakes at no great distance from the city, unequalled opportunity for the exer- cise of their skill, with sure promise of reward. * th historic jeems only THE M^' - J-v'i St. Lawrence M Sapenay Liie of Steamers PLYING BETWEEN QUEBEC, THE RIVER SAGUEMAY and the WATERLJ^Q PLACES of the Lower St. Lawrence f Is composed of the First Class Soa-Ooing Passenger Steamers, "•SAOUENAY," "ST. LAWRENCE," and "UNION." From ubont the 20th of Juno to the 10th of September, one of the above 8te;im )rs will leave the St. Andrew's wharf daily (Sundays andMondays exceptod) at seven o'clock, A.M .^d the arrival of the Montreal boat. ^i'Aoooiianiodation., First Class, Charges Moderate. Tickets for sale at all principal Ticket Offices in the States and Canada, and at the Office of the Company, St Andrew's wharf, Quebec. For further information, apply to A. GABOURY, Secretary. TABLE OF DISTANCES ON THE _ao S3 kI • t>» . 3 Quebec, ■4J 02 O S3 urra Bay e3 ^ St. Paul's Bay, ' 55 55 S d i PQ Eboulementa, 11 11 66 05 o s ~ • Murray Bay, 16 27 16 82 C4 O o e3 • ^4 J Rivifere du Loup, 30 57 46 30 112 ^ r"i a Cacouna, passengers land at R. du Loup 63 52 36 6 118 e3 8 m • a o Tadousac, 22 79 68 52 22 28 134 a Ha! Ha! Bay, 72 151 140 124 94 100 72 206 P3 Chicoutimi, 28 179 168 152 122 128 100 28 234 Riraouaki, 23 112 96 66 178 Note. — The distance of any place in above table, from Quebec, will be found at the head of the column under its name. The distance between other points is found by taking the name of one place in left hand column and following the line to its intersection with the other name required. ■•S5(*!.j iioJaoa Y\ fN^- ■■ ^k}KJ • ■"iaibitmaffeiimrr»mt*M*'rv:^i' THE \) \ y* "■■■••v. ibly ons, no- one i I on fthe I fif- ties ^:^ Take the Montreal and Boston Air Lii ^ 71 Long. ^5 ^ o s Tides rUelicre in ^ /^ J ordinary sprircf^ G ir ^ IT >**• :*• ^^ lid' '•' iSJffli ,^/l,r\ff /ao ••^i!:? ■■'i.V ^tS.'*#; s 'VJ:ky iJ;* M? \'fc*^ftrc ^"'i>«'- ^ A a^lT^W^ ■'rSjS' i'>te w !./(#:, ./I'. ' >i '^^ '■■mv JVV'JI 1 \ ^1 ,„^l ii^r CHICOUTIMI ^> Jl.\)l« .-J#'>*' r ifcVfj iW>>; < ;-- .M*. ^1 5 4 3 3 10 2S 10 47^Lut.^ / 7r Long. 5 4 3 2 10 I I I'll M . 6' 10 9o. v!»- 4 -v ''*i:,-'?"'HiAJ* '-■^'((f. 2jj567 Ft. <^^> «A ^>«.v^^X^^A, R Jj -E J^ "mm^^m^ ^^v^ \ COUDRES J FGooi, IlNBI .^. ^; / 71 Long. ST.THOMAV^ liars; ^^^^H^^^ «9C *>: ^> fOUACE roly lir Line, which is the Great Northern T( Northern Tourist and Pie TO Long. IHtnd^potiaHy A Oo.,ltf||«riHat# Map InBr'siOliioaso. JsKJ^-F. OJF THAT JPAMT —^ OF TUB "-^ TRArmnsEn :by thb SA6UENAY BOATS ad Pleasure Travel Route ! Lake Winnipesaukee» ' OF THE ^ (^ . Sjenay RIVER^ ^ liAiJLF^ THAT PAMT Off TUB SlLn rURSJED -BY THB lENAY BOATS. m TBCXl WHITE MOUiWAINS, ASD OTUKK MAGNIFICENT SCKNERY! Montreal & Quebec. « •■»» This Office is tfie Headquarters of the SiGDENAT LINE of STEHHEBS ly BOSToy. «••»» d^TThe Ticket Seller in tins office has had six years experience in Canada with American Pleasure Travel ; has been to all points of interest through9ut the country, and will be able to give the most reliable information. Befoije selecting your route call at the Geneijal Office, 94 Washington St. LEVE <& OUBE, O.LEVE. Paa*. AflMtM* *''f" ■f m*r7' U ( THE St. I QUE p rix .. la com oM Qii 9ifiT I j iw'jw'g iiw j; v m cmii :its t nmmmm > mm , \» t nMm mmi lMnr JMiU»IW I Mm.\ > »« «»m»l «l>v il >H« i< From ; Steiim^nj at soren / Tick«f theOffiK % ''^<: <:i.V. ii' i 9. Quel St. P Ebot Muri Rivii Cacot laut Tad< Ha! Ohio Rim N: will disti plaO witl I nilUOOlHO i:> 11 ■i^mtsmmtimm KMMnMemiiM Orl( /' CHAPTER XIII. From Quebec to the Saguenay, and Scenery op the Saguenay. I The tourist, in search of health or pleasure, cannot possibly select any route better calculated to meet all his expectations, anil to present that peculiar and unusual combination, no- where else found, within limits easily reached, than the one here described Leaving Quebec by one of the excellent boats named on preceding page, the journey is down the finest portion of the grand St. Lawrence, a distance of about one hundred and fif- ty miles, the great river, in many places, being thirty miles in width. This water area, of four thousand square miles, is dotted with beautiful islands ; skirted on the one hand by towns and villages, on the other by lofty mountains, and both sides con- stantly in view, making the line of approach one of contin- ued charm. On the way down the River, the mouth of the river St. Anne will be passed, oft' the lower extremity of the Island of Orleans. This river enters the larger stream through a bold ravine, and many ascend the stream for a short distance to the Falls of St. Anne, which, with the surroundings^ are pleas- ing and attractive. Thirty-six miles below Quebec is a group of six small isl- lands, alive with geese, ducks and teal, who make this a breeding place. Tlie Quarantine Station at " Grosse Isle^^ deserves a pass- ie2 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. ing notice — a lovely spot of itself, quietly sleeping in the gi*e.it river, but a very charnel house in the past, receiving, in the time of the famine in Ireland, six thousand emigrants in one huge grave. The river widens broader and broader as you sail on, as upon a vast inland sea, losing sight of eitlior shore. Malbaie, ninety miles below Quebec on the north shore, is a halting station and place of pleasure resort, Murray Bay being a fash- ionable watering place, and the fine fishing in Murray River much patronized. The river here is about twenty miles wide with tides of nearly 20 ft. rise. Steaming across to " Riviere du Loup," on the south shore, passengers are landed within six miles of Cacouna, where are hotel accommodations of the first class, and facilities for eiyoyment either of luxurious ease or active sporting. Con tinning down the St. Lawrence, on the northern shore, Tadousac is reached at the mouth of M^'f Tadousac Bay, "»» ■^1 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 163 in the i in one I on, as ialbaie, . halting g a fash- ty River iles wide ' Riviere k\ within 3ns of the luxurious avn shore, that vast and mysterious rock gorge, tlu'ough whicli pour the unfatiiomable floods of the mountain-shadowed SAGUENAY KIVEU, the largest affluent of the St. Lawrence, having its source in Lake St. John, and a straight course of one hundred and thirty miles from the lake to the St. Lawrence. The upper half of its course is a series of falls and rapids, navigable only by canoes, and flowing through a dense and almost unknown wilderness. The navigable portion of the river will float the largest vessels of the world, from its mouth some ninety miles to the head of navigation, and has been described as a perfectly straight, yawning gulf, torn for the whole distance in the grey mica schist rising on either hand in precipitous clifls whose bases rest in unknown depths — a panorama of rocky walls and precipices — *' no sheltered nooks nor coves, no fer- tile beaches — nowhere a margin for foot to rest upon." The continuous ridges on either hand rise to an elevation of 1,000 to 1,500 feet, and often more. The wonderful capes — Cape Trinity. 164 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. I! t M^ Ml Eternity and Trinity rear their heads to an altitude of eighteen hundred feet, and, at their base, the river has a depth of 600 fathoms. This whole route is traversed by dayliyht; the boats are, in all respects, first-class, and nothing is wanting to secure the comfort of passengers, as promised in the advertised route. (See adv.,) The largest ships may ride in the immense depth of these waters. The sights are never to be forgotten — bold, barren, forbidding and awful. The discharge of a cannon on ship- board between the bare walls of rock, is said to crash back in echoes which no one could wish to have repeated, one such sensation sufficing for a lifetime. The scenery is aptly spoken of by a writer as *' a region of primeval grandeur, where art has done nothing and^nature everything; where, at a single bound, civilization is left behind, and nature stands in unadorned majesty ; where Alps on Alps arise ; where, over unfathomable depths, through mountain gorges, the steamer ploughs the dark flood on which no sign of animal life appears." ■i^if^'-- ' V Ha Ha Bay. NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 165 cle of deptli it; the inting in the f these aarren, n ship- sh back •ne such egion of il^nature 1 is left lere Alps through flood on -5!««* :.''- ''^ Ha-IIa Bay, a quiet and lovely bay receding from the river several miles, a cheerful village, animal life, and facili- ties for amusement are here found, a change most welcome from the sombre desolation of the ascent. Lake St. John, in wliich the river has its source, receives the flow of eleven large rivers, and innumerable smaller streams, from the vast water-shed and interminable forests surrounding it, but dis- charges all its waters l)y this wonderful stream through miles of wild and unnavigable floods. Statue Point and f^es Tableux are noted gems of scenery on tlie river, a perpendicular rock below Ha-Ha Bay, at the termination of a great plateau, three hundred feet wide and six hundred feet inhight. The village of Chicoutimi is:ittl»e outlet of Lake Kenokami, with the Saguenay. It is at the head of navigation. An extensive lumber business is trans- acted here; the village is ancient and has about five hundred inhabitants. Tadousac, tit the mouth of the Saguenay, has a fine hotel which is excellently kept, and, in connection, all kinds of amusements for visitors. The bathing is very superior. It is a post of the Hudson Bay Company, who have establishments here of consider.able importance. Here was the residence of Pere Marquette, who explored the Mississippi vall<;y. The vener- able church is two and a half centuries old. This was one of the first places on the river fortified by the French. The first permanent stone building erected, at any northern locality on the continent, was here built. We are not competent to write of this desolately grand and awfully majestic region with the intelligent criticism of the scientific, or the enthusiasm of the geologist. Ere long, some one, equal to the task, will explore its grandly dismal reaches, bringing to bear upon its wonderful characteristics the light of science, while, by a wild and nomadic life, in that unexplored continent around and beyond its sources, a volume of travel shall result, more interesting in its revela- tions of northern wonders than are the charming works of h'V 3 i i!-' ■ / MuuTii OF Sagueney and Pt. Maugukite, Tadousac NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 167 Dii Challiu or the mysterious journeys of the lamented Livingston, in other and more distant lands. Few realize the vastness of that wild and almost limitless north, stretching from habitable limits up to the icy realms of the polar regions, yet to be made familiar by exploration and charming narrative, and to which, one of these grandest passages will be the forbidding pass through which the inky floods Of the unmeasured Saguenay find outlet to the sea. Salmon -fishing in the tributaries of the Saguenay is the favorite sport of visitors — the salmon and the seal are almost the only living denizens of the solitary stream. From this trip the tourist will return with the feeling that he has looked upon an aspect of nature more novel than any other upon the continent — a vast landscape and water course in the rough, with all the touches of beauty and elaborations of animated nature left out — a creation vast and grand but incomplete — a chaos of forms and material — the skeleton ribs and bones of a highland region, left bare and bleaching by arrested creative forces. Take, by all means, this trip, not in expectation of finding a smiling paradise and lurking beauty, but its reverse — the barely grand and simply majestic. From Tadousac, you can return by boat to Quebec, or by rail from Riviere du Loup to Point Levi, there connecting with the system of railways threading every portion of the Canadas and New England. The boat route gives by far the greatest variety of scenejy and experience to the traveler, who has an eye to the picturesque and novel in nature. I h ♦ h l-\ J 11) I CHAPTER XIV. SCENERY AND LOCALITIES IN NORTHERN VERMONT. From Wells River, where the Boston, Concord. Montreal and White Mountains Railroad, Connecticut River Railroad from below, the Passumpsic River Railroad northward, and the Wells River and Montpelier Railroad westward, all form a junction, the tourist may, by taking the train over the Passumpsic River Railroad, pass northward to interesting and picturesque localities, in northern Vermont. The route is up the valley of the Connecticut River, which leaves at Barnet; thence following the valley of the winding and rapid Passumpsic, which, with the adjacent country, all who have an eye for the picturesque and pastoral, in a succession of flying landscapes, will view with continual pleasure. Pull- man palace sleeping cars are run, and one can sup in Boston, take a berth in a sleeping car, and rise to a breakfast of lake trout at Newport in the morning. ST. JOHNSBURY, twenty miles from Wells River, is one of the finest of Ver- mont towns, noted for its thrift, entei-prise, romantic situa- tion, and importance as a manufacturing centre. At this point the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad intersects the Passumpsic line. The Vermont division of this new line is already running westward and eastward, and passengers may leave St. Johnsbury for Mount Mansfield by this new route, going by rail to Morrisville and Hydepark. (See following pag^s.) RN Icntrcal ard, and all form )vcr the teresting the route eaves at nd rapid ivho luivc ssion of 3. ruu- Boston, it of lake Lt of Ver- [tic sitiia- At this [rsects the V line is Lgers may lew route, 1 following I NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 169 At the Avenue House, opposite the depot, you will find first class accommodations, and the gentlemanly and obliging proprietor, Geo. H. Aldrich, will make your stay a pleasant one. A stay of a day at St. Johnsbury will be a day well spent, ami the Scale Works of the Messrs. Fairbanks are the feature of the town. The extensive manufacture of every class of scales, from the immense dock and railroad scale to the tiny balance of the banker, all equally nice in ac\jus1mcnt, and correct in plan of construction, is here carried on by skilled workmen, directed by indomitable energy, and true business tact and honor. It would seem strange that the iron of Mis- souri and Pennsylvania should be sent to this point, far up among the hills, to be fashioned for use by Yankee workmen, and returned to weigh the virgin ore ; but such is the case, and it is one of the curious facts in manufacture and ex- change. This is the shire town of Caledonia county, it is the important centre of northwestern Vermont, has fine county and school buildings, beautiful natural surroundings, and an industrious and fast increasing population. The prospective increase of railroad facilities by the assured completion of the railway to Portland, through the heart of the White Mountains, cannot fail to add to ito prosperity and importance. Few places, of its population, in the country, h.ave so many of the desirable institutions and luxuries usually supposed to be found only in the large and wealthy cities ; for this reason, as well as its healthy location and pleasant surroundings, with the acknowledged public spirit of its manufacturers and people, the village is desirable for residence for people of leisure as well as a favorable point for business. Continuing northward from St. Johnsbury, just before reaching Lyndon, you will notice one of those charming wa- terfalls which so often break the flow of the rapid Passumpsic River. At Lyndonville are the repair and construction shops of this important railway line, and a gi'owing country town. West Burke, thirty-seven miles from Wells River, is the stji- tion from which passengers leave, by stage line, for Lake Willoughby. Burke Mountain, a bold elevation of 2,000 feet. 170 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. • t will be observed to the right us you approach this station, and a good view of the eastern wall of Lake Willoughby is had as you near this point. WILLOUGHBY LAKE. The hotel at this lake is six miles distant from the West Burke Station; conveyance may be had at the hotel at this point for the lake, and no doubt a regular stage line will bo run in the season of pleasure travel. This wonderful sheet of water lies between two lofty mountain walls, evidently once united, but torn asunder by some terrible convulsion of nature in remote ag(?s. The surface of the lake is nearly twelve hundred feet above sea level, and the mountain walls tower on either side to the height of nearly two thousand feet above the lake. Under these frowning walls on the nar- row bank threads the roadway. Mount Willoughby or Annanance, the eastern wall, is nearly two thousand feet in height, and Mount Ilor, on the western side, is of somewhat less elevation. From the sum- mit of these heights you may look to the southeast upon the White and Franconia Mountains, westward to the bold peaks and ranges of the Green Mountains, northward into theCan- adas, and southward along the wide valley between the great mountain ranges. At one point from this height you can look down, a sheen* descent of 2,500 feet, upon the pure, transparent waters of the lake below, visible in its every outline and feature. The Willoughby Lake House is a commodious hotel ac- commodating a hundred guests, finely situated, overlookin<5 the lake to the northward. We will now continue by rail from West Burke northward. Irasburg, a favorite resort for those loving the quiet of the pretty village, near the Lowell Mountains, is reached by staging from Barton's Landing, three and one-half miles, and, continuing on, at sixty-five miles north of Wells River the pretty village of Newport comes into view, the inviting exterior of the Memphremagog House, close by the railroad station gladdens the eyes of tired travelers, and the calm waters of Lake Memphremagog, with the fine steamer at the II NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 171 Isimling, give promise of eiyoyment and comfort in prospect. NEWPORT is the station from which the attractions of the lake are reached, and is a cheery, pleasant village in the midst of grand and varied scenery, where the summer heats are tem- p(!red by the cool breeze from the placid lake. Its older in- habitants may perhaps **a tale unfold" of smuggling in the oU^en time, but, since the village has become importjmt as a railway and business centre the old order of things has passed away and *' ways that are vain " no longer engage the attention of the busy populace. From the slight eminence, to the south of the village, known as Prospect Hill, you may overlook the country for miles in every direction. In the early morning or at close of day the view of the lake with its irregular outline, many islands and the changing hues imparted by the rising or set- ting sun, is peculiarly fine from this elevation. Jay's Peak, Willoughby Mountain and the high summits of Mount Or- ford, Mount Elephantis and Owl's Head are all seen to advantage. THE MEMPHIlEMAGOa HOUSE is a fine, spacious and well kept hotel, within a stone's throw of the railway station and the steamboat landing, on the shores of the lake. It is of five stories, will accommodate four hundred guests, and the outlook from its extensive bal- conies towards the lake, upon the peak of Owl's Head, which looms into view, and the surrounding scenery, is attractive to the visitor from the dust, heat and noise of the crowded city, and a promenade in the quiet evening hour along its ample verandas is one of the delights of summer travel. The attractive exterior of the house is well represented in the engi'aving. W. F. Bowman, Esq., is a gentlemanly and experienced landlord Sail and row-boats are furnished by the landlord at any time to suit the wants and tastes of ex- cursionists or sportsmen, and for the fine drives hereabouts good teams may be had. The drive to the summit of Jay's Peak, in the towns of Westfield and .Jay, thirteen miles dis- 172 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. tant, is one which all should take. A list of drives, with distances, is conspicuously placed in the hotel. The village of Stanstead, just over the Canada line, is often visited, and Clyde and Coventry Falls are within easy driving distance. Despite all other attractions your greatest interest will cen- tre in the BOAT TRIP DOWN THE LAKE. Lake Memphremagog, two-thirds of which lies in Canadi.m Dominions, is the charming I'ival of Lake George, which it "^ NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 173 iS, \\ village jted, and llisUnce. roscmblos in conformation. Its length is thirty miloa, tho breadth Hl)out two miles, widening in some portions to six miles. The bold, roek-bonnd shores, numerous wooded is- lands, the shadowing peaks of lofty mountains, rising, in some cases, to 3,000 feet in height, with slopes of luxurious forest and greenest verdure, serve but to heighten the charm of this " Beautiful Water," supplied from the pure, cold streams of the surrounding mountains. The new, staunch, iron steamer, " Lady of the Lake," one hundred and seventy feet in length, and a model of neatness and convenience, leaves the landing near the hotel and rail- way depot each morning at about eight o'clock, also after diimer for the second trip, the run being made in three hours each way. Her commander, Capt. Fogg, has for a lifetime known every point upon these waters, and can give valuable information or amuse you with stories and legends innumer- able, pertaining to the old time history of this wild and secluded region. The zigzag course of the steamer giv(}8 you a trip of nearly fifty miles sailing from Newport to the village at the northern outlet — Magog— a Canadian hamlet with a background of forest extending to Mount Orford. Space will forbid the attempt even to notice all the places and objects of interest around this lovely sheet of water, lying in its narrow, deep and shadowed basin. It will be observed that the eastern shores are fertile and sparsely populated with a farming community ; the western shore is more bold and abrupt, rising, in many places in frowning bluifs of several hundred feet elevation. The small Canadian village of Cedarville, in Stanstead, is on the eastern side, so named from the surrounding cedar groves, and beyond is Fitch's Bay with the island at its entrance. You now approach the bold peak of owl's head, a name applied to many summits in the mountains, with what show of propriety you must judge. This is a regular cone-like summit. Leaving ROUND ISLAND, a cedar crowned swell of rock-bound land, rising from the ■ '"M: 174 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. lake, about a half mile from the base of Owl's Head, which you are now approaching, the boat lands you in a few min- utes at the wharf of that land-locked and mountain-shadowed hotel, the Mountain House. The view of the lake from this hotel is splendid, and the facilities for fishing and sport- ing attract that class of tourists in large numbers. The ascent of Owl's Head is made from that hotel. There are curious and prominent way marks on the ascent and the prospect is grand and extensive, extending, with favorable weather, to Montreal and the great St. Lawrence River, over the whole extent of the lake and the cluster of lakes, ponds and system of rivers, with the ranges, peaks and villages around the wide sweep of view. Eastward from the Mountain House, near the eastern shore, is Skinner's Island, and on its northeastern shore is Skin- ner's Cave, a narrow den in the rock, some thirty feet deep. The legend of Uriah Skinner, the bold *' Smuggler of Ma- gog," is too long for our pages, but 'tis said he took refuge from pursuit in this cave and there perished, hence the name of "Skinner's Cave," and grave. Steaming northward from this point the great mountains rear their huge masses into view. Owl's Head, Sugar Loaf, or Mount Elephantis, the Hog's Back, and, away in the dis- tance. Jay's Peak. Meanwhile, Long Island, with its bold shores, has been passed, and on its southern line is the famous f ,s, I ! I balance kock, a huge granite mass, balanced upon a point close to the wa- ter's edge, an object of interest to the learned and the curi- ous. The eastern shores are now abrupt, and residences of wealthy Canadians crown the heights. Molson, the Mon- treal banker, has here his summer residence, and is the pro- prietor of an island near the eastern shore. Georgeville is a place of some importance, where stop, is made for the mails, and you steam across to the western shore to Knowlton's Landing. Stage* run from this point to Waterloo, on the Stanstead and Chambly Railroad, where cars may be taken for Montreal and intermediate points. NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 175 PI which V min- fcdowed e from I sport- 3. The leve are and the tvorahle rer, over s, ponds villages vn shore, is Skin- feet deep. 31- of Ma- ok refuge the name mountains II gar Louf, in the dis- th its hold :he famous Ito the wa- __ the curi- [sidences of the Mon- is the pro- iere stop- is (he western Ihis point to load, where liate points. Steaming on from this landing, and rounding the bold, rocky promontory of Gibraltar Point, you have a wide view, with MOUNT ORFOKD in the distance — the highest summit of Lower Canada, 3,300 feet elevation, distant five miles from the village of Magog, and may be ascended by carriage roadway to the summit. MAGOG, or Outlet Village, is the terminal point of the trip — a true Canadian settlement. The Parks House affords you enter- tainment, but good dinners may be obtained on the boat. Passengers can here take the stage line to Sherbrooke, on the Grand Trunk Railway, (a ride of sixteen miles around Mount Orford) or to Waterloo, (twenty-one miles,) on the Shefford and Chambly Railroad. But most of those who came with us will make the return trip to Newport, viewing the fine scenery along the sliores in reverse order, and continue their journey to Montreal by THE SOUTH-EASTERN RAILWAY, a new line from Newport, shortening the distance and saving time to the tourist, and affording to through passengers from the Connecticut valley, especially from its northern portion, and from the White Mountains, a short and direct route to the Canadian metropolis. This route is along the valley of the Clyde River, via Richford, West Farnham and St. Johns to Montreal, through the Victoria Bridge. Trains are now run in connection with the Connecticut and Passump- sic Express Line (no change of cars), and afford all the accommodations and improvements demanded by first class through travel. The old Passumpsic line northward runs along the Massawippi valley, by the shores of Massa- wippi Lake, uniting at Sherbroke with the Grand Trunk line for Montreal, Quebec and intermediate points. The scenery upon any of the Canadian lines is not sufficiently attractive to merit extended description. ».4J -jn r CHAPTER XV. The Vermont Division op the Portland and Ogdens- BURG Rail Road. This new line, extending westward from St. Johnsbury, through Danville, Waklen, Hard wick, Greer -boro, Woleott Morristown and Hyde Park (the present terr us) and east- ward, through Concord, Dalton and other towns to White- field on the B. C. & M. R. R. (a portion of this latter route still incomplete,) is eventually to become an important link in a great through route from the west to tide-water at Port- land by the short, direct, and central northern line via. Og- densburg and the White Mountain Notch. This division of the line passes through a territory heretofore lacking railway fjicilities, and, in many localities picturesque and d'esirable for summer residence. Our space forbids extended description of the many local- ities in this region so lately opened to the tide of travel. The giinc3ral aspect of the country is very deversified, the railway line abounding in cuts and fills and extensive trestle works. MORRISVILLE, is a village in Lamoille County which has become a place of considerable resort for parties seeking rural quiet, and is al- so a point of departure for Mt. Mansfield. But, at HYDE PARK, fifby-two miles from St. Johnsbury, by rail west, the present western terminus of this railway line, and the shire town ,of T{ NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL 177 )GDENS- hnsbury, Wolcott and oast- o White- ;ter route rtant link 51- at Povt- 3 via. Og- ivision of rtGeorg«. ag down to ,e southern ttgth of the ;antly plays .entsofthe ,m of com- lLake.Lake| U-six miles I ^f a mile to I iaces, morel [everywhercl remarkably clear, so much so that objects can be seen at a depth of more than thirty feet. The French gaxe it the name of *' Lake of the Holy Sacrament," and used sometimes to transport the waters, on account of their purity, for use in their churches in baptismal fonts. Not only are artists and lovers of sublime and beautiful scenery attracted to the lake, by its beautiful scenery, but the many old associations, called up by a visit to its surroundings, make it a modern Mecca for the patriotic. It was first visited in 1646, by the French Jesuit, Father Jogues, who perished, as did many of his successors, by the hands of the fierce Mohawks, who dwelt around its borders. The trip through the lake fi-om Caldwell is now made in a few hours, in one of the elegant steamers, '* Minnehaha" and " Ganouskie," via Bolton, 14 Mile Island, and Hague, to the lower end of the lake, where stages (4 miles staging) are taken for Ticonderoga and the pier of the Champlain Steamers. Of the many points along the way, charming for beauty and grandeur, and interesting from association, we have not space for description, the eye will take them in with rare pleasure, and some one familiar with localities, will cheer- fully point out the many points of interest. The outlet of Lake George is a rapid stream descending 240 feet in the less than 4 miles of its flow before discharging into the larger Lake Champlain. The remains of old Fort Ticonderoga hav- ing been visited, standing in solitary ruin upon a high pe- ninsula projecting into the lake, you take one of the steamers plying between Whitehall, Burlington and Rouse's Point on LAKE CHAMPLAIN. This largest of eastern lakes is one hundred and forty miles extreme length, covers an area of six hundred square miles, connects at its southern base with the Hudson, by canal from Whitehall, receives the surplus waters of Lake George, and discharges through the Richelieu River into the St. Law- rence. Burlington, St. Albans and Vergennes, on the east- ern shore, have fine harbai'S, and Plattsburg, Ticonderoga and Crown Pointy on the New York side, are places of great 'ft 192 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. Bft .< historic interest and noted associations. The scenery on the Aiisable River, reached from Port Kent or Plattsburg, is the most remarkable of any inland stream in the Eastern States. Here the river dashes for a mile through a narrow passage in the sand-stono, between walls of two hundred feet perpen- dicular height, forming a chasm wild, romantic and grand in the extreme, distant twelve miles from Plattsburg. Lake Champlain was discovered in the year 1609 by Sam- uel de Champlain, the noted and indomitable French geog- rapher. The following from *' Chisholms Guide Book" is beauti- fully descriptive. "Travellers who have widely explored the objects of interest in the New and Old World unite in pronouncing the waters and environs of Champlain the most beautiful and impressive the eye can rest upon. The waters of the Lake, whether reposing in a calm, or surging under the power of the tempest, are indescribably beautiful; but this attraction is infinitely enhanced by the islands which in varied forms stud its bosom, by the peninsulas which pierce it, and by the bold, rocky precipices that impend over the Lake. The shores on either side are impressive and beau- tiful : now a long line of rugged cliffs, crowned by dense for- ests, appears, and now smiling in luxuriousranges of culture and elegance, embellished by farm-houses, mansions and vil- lages with their glittering spires. All this scene of beauty is embraced by the dark framework of mountains that impart magnificence to the whole." This steamboat passage to Burlington gives beautiful views of, Mt. Mansfield and Camel's Hump, of Green Mountain range, and the gi*and peaks and outlines of the Adirondacks in New York, CROWN POINT is twelve miles north of Ticonderoga, with the ruins of the old fortress on the high promontory between the lake and the bay beyond. Port Henry is a finely located village with a population engaged in iron mining and manufacture. West- port and Essex are other points, where steamers touch, and from which passage may be taken for the Adirondack region. NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 193 m the is the states, assage )erpen- grand )y Sam- li geog- beauti- jxplored unite in the most le waters ng under iifnl; hut which in ich pierce fl over the and heau- dense for- of culture US and vil- ,f beauty is lat impart Itifttl views Mountain lirondacks Luins of the le lake and llage with a ire. West- I touch, and lack region. | Steaming on in a north-easterly course, passing the Four Brothers, Juniper Islands^ and Rock Bunder, BURLINGTON is reached ; where passengers for the mountains will leave the boat. Those going through to Montreal, or Ogdensburg, will continue on to Rouse''s Point, there connecting with rail- way lines northward and westward. Burlington is one of the great lumber ports of the country. The ground on wiiich it is built slopes gradually up from the lake, rising to a height of 370 feet. The University of Vermont has fine buildings crowning the highlands. From the dome of the main build- ing a grand scene is presented, including in the circle swept by the eye over sixty prominent peaks, the bright waters and islands of take Champlain with the towering summits of the Adirondacks beyond. The grave of the old hero, Ethan Al- len, is visited by all patriots. A fine statue was erected over the grave during the year 1873. The Ameuican Hotel is one of the largest and most complete hotels in the city, and j in its management and provision for the wants and comforts of patrons, is second to none in the whole range of pleasure 194 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. travel. H. H. Howe, proprietor, is the gentlemanly and elTi- cient manager. " pi »» I hT m~ The Van Ness House, D. C. Barber & Co., proprietors', is also a new, large, commo- dious and well kept hotel, where all may be made comforta- ble, with good quarters and the best of fare, during their stay , in this fine old Green Mountain city. No essential requisite 1 J||)V n li NORTHERN PLLASURE TRAVEL. I95 to the traveler's comfort will be wnnfir,,, * popular house. wanting to guests at this From Burlington passengers may go over the Tentrni v thence toMon"real amJO-fpr ^"f"^'"'' ^ Kouse's P„i„,. ;..t,.e„.ou„.SZlSr;S^ R.-..lroad »t Northumberland Junction. Mountains ge, commo- e comfortR- ig their stay i ial requisite CHAPTER XVIII. From Niagara Falls to the White Mountains. J Visitors at Niagara Falls who wish to supplement their visit to that great natural wonder by continuing their journey to the romantic region of the White Hills, will go by rail to Lewiston, on Lake Ontario, thence by boat to the fine Canadian city of ^ TORONTO. The view of Toronto, approached from the lake, is remark- ably fine, the wharves and public buildings giving indica- tions of a city of importance. It has a population of about 65,000 souls, and is the chief city of the Upper Canadas or the Province of Ontario. The buildings of the University are massive in proportion and built in the Norman style of architecture. Trinity College, the Normal School and Loretto Convent are other educational institutions of note. The English and Catholic Cathedrals are both buildings to attract attention. The Queen's Hotel, Toronto, Ontario, Capt. Thomas Dick, Proprietor, Thomas Mc Gaw, Manager, is convenient to the Railway Stations and Steamboat Piers, on Front Street, near the business portions of the city. Commo- dious rooms elegantly filled with new furniture of most modern style, spacious and attractive grounds and croquet lawns, with a sumptuous billiard parlor serve to make it an acceptable temporary or permanent home for the merchant or the tourist and for travelers generally. Carriages always NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 197 3. t their ourney rail to tie fine •emark- indica- )f about adas or iversity ,8tyle of ool and lof note. Idinga to iThomas ivenient Front Jommo- lof most croquet ike it an lerchant always in waiting for the pleasant drives and extensive views of a varied character in and around the city. The extensive Galleries of Art, the Queen's Park, the University Build- ings, the Lunatic Asylum, the Trinity College, and Nor- mal School are some of the places which must be seen. It is one of the largest hotels in the Dominion of Canada, and overlooks the beautiful Bay and Lake Ontario. His Im- perial Highness the Grand Duke Alexis, of Russia, and his suite were furnished, in December, 1871, with the splendid suite of apartments, comprising one wing of the house, without extra preparation. The (Queen's) Royal Hotel at Niagara has the same ownership and management. From Toronto the tourist may go by Grand Trunk Rail- way, directly to Montreal, thence, through the Victoria Bridge and over the south-eastern and Passumpsic Railways, to connection with the Wliitc Mountains Railway at Wells River; or, he may go from Montreal via Grand Trunk Railway, and Island Pond to Northumberland, (express train and parlor cars over this route) and approach the mountains from the north ; but, by far the larger number of those who travel for pleasure, will come by boat, from Toronto, through Luke Ontario and the St, Lawrence River, through the Thou- sand Islands, over the Rapids and under the Great Victoria Bridge, to Montreal, and, from thence, by railway (choice of routes as described on preceding page) to the Mountains. Some prefer to go from Toronto to Kingston by Grand Trunk Railway.and there take boat for the passage among the islands and down the river to Montreal, giving variety to the journey. the thousand islands — there are nearer two thousand — stretch themselves along the centre of the St. Lawrence for a distance of forty miles. They vary in extent from the green dot upon the wave to the island of miles in length, and are among the wonders of the St. Lawrence. THE BAPIDS. The Long Sault is a continuous rapid of nine miles extent, divided in the centre by an island. The current rushes M r 198 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. through these rapids at the rate of twenty miles an hour and is exciting in the extreme to one a stranger to the passage ; but, with skillful pilotage, the passage is safely made and the apparent danger adds to tiie glow of excitement and makes it a journey to be remembered. The Lachine Rapids nearest to Montreal are visited by many who wish to eiy'oy the sensation of " Shooting the Rapids." In approaching anchorage at Montreal, you pass beneath the grand Victoria Bridge (see chapter on " Mon- treal ") and have fine views of the city and the splendid stone piers which line the water front of this northern commercial centre. From Montreal proceed to the mountains by either rail route as described in connection with all rail route on preceding pages of this chapter. HOME AGAIN. Having made the circuit of the mountains and enjoyed the cool breezes which sweep the northern lakes, we shall all, in due time, turn our faces towards home, and we shall all have traveled to small purpose if we have not received **«*«***«<. hint ^nd tojj^Q Of fairer, ral leys and streams than these. Where the cirers of Qod are full of water, And full of lap are His healing trees I " HOTELS. 199 ir and ssage ; ,nd tho makes ited by ag the n\ pass •♦ Mon- id 8tx)ne niercial y either route on oyed the x\\ all, in I all have A GI^EAT ATTRACTION TO TOURISTS AND PLEASURE TRAVELLERS IS THE ROUTE OF THE QUEBEC AND GULF PORT S. S. CO.. Whose commodious Steamers proceed from Quebec down the majestic River and Gulf of St. Lawrence in sight of the grandest scenery and many historical points, calling at nu- merous Sea-bathing Resorts on the South shore of the Gulf, giving the Sportsman and Angler a chance to visit the most far-famed Rivers, Bays and Inlets which swarm with Trout and Salmon. The Steamers connect at Point du Ch6ne (Shediac) with Intercolonial R. R. for St. John, N. B., thence by Cars and Steamers to Portland and Boston, and at Pictou with Inter- colonial R. R. for Halifax, N. S., connecting there with Rail- way or Steamer lines for St. John, Portland and Boston. This is the Route to Charlotte town. Prince Edward's Island. Excursion Tickets from New York, Boston or other points in New England to Montreal, Quebec, thence via Gulf Port Steamers to Shediac, N- B., Charlottetown, P. E. I., Pictou, N. S., St. John, N. B., Halifax, N. S., passing through all points of interest in the maritime provinces and returning by either Rail or Steamer to Portland, Boston and New York, or vice versa, for sale in New York, Boston, and prin- cipal points in Now England, at aU Offiaes selling Excursion Tickets. Ask Ticket Agent for Gulf Port Steamtir Circular, which will give you all particular information, and map of route. STEVENSON & LEVE, Passenger Agents^ ^ General Office, Quebec, W. MOORE, Mamujcr, il-ii| w^^ I m ■ i r.^ ')/ I II' I 200 HOTELS. TiiE undersigned respectfully inform their numerous friends and patrons in tne United States and Canada, that, by the recent enlargement and improvements effected in this establshment, they are now prepared to accommodate over 250 guests. The Treble House has two beautiful fronts, as shown by the engi-aving. It is unrivalled in its not only ?leasant location, but is convenient to the Post Office, Banks, 'ublic Buildings, Horse Car Depot, &c. The house has been thoroughly refitted and furnished with every regard to com- fort and luxury ; has hot and cold baths and closets on each floor. The aim has been to make this the most unexception- able first-class hotel in Portland. We trust that our lon^ ex- perience in first-class hotels will give confidence to our friends and the traveling public, that they will receive every comfort and attention at the Preble. Carriages, with .attentive drivers, can be had at all times by applymg at the olHce ; coaches will also be found at the Railway Depots and Steamboat Landings on the arrival of the several trains and Steamers. M. S. GIBSON & CO., Proprietors. HOTELS. 201 a^ [•-U» 1 numevons ada. that, fected in jnimodate |ful fronts, . not only [^e , Banlts, . has been . d to corn- Its on each jxception- |r lon^ ex- (ur friends y comfort all times [md at the arrival of Iprietors. BY G. W. & J. S. PIERCE, PORTSMOUTH, N. H. Not excelled by any hotel in New England for elegance and completeness in every department. This house is be- coming popular among summer travelers, as headquarters, while visiting Rye, Hampton, York or Wells Beaches, either of which is within a pleasant drive. Yachts, with expe- rienced skippers, to take guests to the Isles of Shoals, the Harbor, or up the Piscataqua. Direct communication by railroad to the mountains and lakes of New Hampshire and Maine. THE FINEST BILLIAED HALL IN THE STATE. Coaches at Eastern and Concord Depots. il 202 HOTELS. OLD ORCHARD HOUSE, OLD ORCHARD BEACH, 8A.OO, - - - - M^IISTE, E. C. STAPLES, Proprietor. Ui This house, the pioneer of Sea-side Hotels, is the largest on the coast ; contains about 250 rooms and will accommodate 400 guests, and being forty feet alx>ve the level of the sea, it has the advantage of breezes from every quarter ; it is sur- mounted by a tower 105 feet above the sea and gives a splen- did view in all directions. Its oflice, parlors, &c., are com- modious, it also lias a Concert-Room 72 by 36 feet with stage 36 by 12, with full set of scenery, drop scenes, &c., for the performance of amateur theatricals, tableaux, dancing, etc., and will seat about 400 people. A band will be in attcml- ance every evening during the season. Telegraph office in the house. The famous Old Orchard or Fern Park, the finest in New England, is the private property of the proprietor of this house and is for the exclusive use of his guests. The Beach is ten miles in length, with an average breadth at low water of 18 rods and so hard and smooth that a horse's hoof scarcely makes an impression upon it. Surf bathing is perfectly safe, as there is no undertow, and for the enjoy- ment of all the charms of old ocean in summer, this place cannot be surpassed in the world. Billiards and bowling sa- loons are connected with the house, also a livery stable with safe horses and elegant carriages. Bathing houses on the beach, containing 100 rooms, with a competent man in charge, at reasonable terms. Boston & Maine R. R. Station 2 minutes walk ft*om the house, distance from the E. R. R. Depot 4 miles, from Bos- ton 100 miles, from Portland 15 miles. 13 miles drive to Sa- co Pool, 12 miles drive to Atlantic and Kirkwood Houses, Scarboro beach, and about 15 to Cape Cottage and Ocean House, Cape Elizabeth. T E, NE, 5 largest aimodate he sea, it it is sur- i a splen- are com- rith stage ., for the cing, etc., n attcad- 1 office in the finest prietor of • :e breadth a horse's Ibatliing is ihe e^joy- :his phice wling sa- ble with ies on the t man in ft'om the Ifrom Bos- I'ive to Sa- id Houses, ind Ocean THE GRAND PAeiFie HOTEL, CHICAGO, ILLINOIS. Geo. W. Cjae^e, John A. Rice, ProTDrietors. ■IS The largest, most coinjjlcce Hotel in tlie world anU be.U pruiecteU anaind Firf. Representing with the cost of land, structure and furnishing, an outlay of nearly $3,000,000.00, occupying the entire Block opposite the new Government Build- ing, bounded by Clark, Jackson, La Salic & Quincy Streets First opened to the Public June 1873. TerniHf 94.50 per day. liiCO.W. OAGK &c JOHN A. HlClii, ProprieCors. 204 HOTELS. E!> ; ' COLON ADE HOTEL, Cor. 15th Si Chestnut Sts., PHILADELPHIA., PENN. CENTRALLY LOCATED- Borse Cars pass here to all Points in the City. HOTELS. 205 L, PENN. CKty. Ill' » Grants Hotel, Berwick Side, GEBAT PALLS, N. H. New House, New Furniture, and all Modern improve- ments. House warmed throughout by Furnace. Gas in every room. Billiard Hall and Barber Shop connected. A good stable connected with the House. This Hotel is first-class in all its appointments, is pleasantly located near the depots and business centres of Great Falls and Berwick, and persons visiting this part of New England for business or pleasure, will find it a desirable stopping-place. EDMUND GRANT, Proprietor. J. E. LANGLEY, Clerk. p I r) 1 2§: o 3iT no TJ S E , An Elegant Hotel — Cost over a quarter Million dollars — A favorite Summer resort (open all the year). Free tickets by steamer, t^ice daily, to Surf Bathing Beach, time forty minutes. Circulars. Also in connection with the above is On the seashore, WatchHill,R.I., (near Stonington, Ct). For all sea side attractions, this place is not surpassed on the whole Atlantic Coast. Charges Very Moderate — Circulars. A. S. Plimpton. MARTHA'S "ncMvvAy '^MP' TON ^ BLOCK I. mm^m iE, HOTELS. dollars— ree tickets time forty above is loij Ijouse, e seashore, Hill, R. I., tonington, or all sea .ttractions, ace is not sed on the Atlantic Charges ©derate— ars. Plimpton. BELYU 207 HOUSE. DANIEL HORN, Proprietor. WOLFEBOROUGH, N. H. 4» This house and grounds are beautifully located in the most attractive spot on the shore of Lake Winnipiseogee, at Wolfeborough, only a few rods distant from the Steamboat Landing and Railroad Station. Connected with the House are Boarding and Livery Stable, Laundry, and Bathing, and a large supply of Boats for rowing, sailing, and fishing, at moderate charges. Also, two beauti- ful, fast sailing Yachts, carrying 25 to 30 persons each. Lake and Brook Trout abundant. Board at Reduced Rates in May and June. BUCK'S HOTEL, LENNOXVILLE, P. Q. F. P. BUCK, . . Proprietor. Junction of Grand Trunk & P. & C. R. B. This Hotel has been refitted and refurnished infiret'OlaeB etyle. H' ii'' '{.■ % I 1 Delightfully located, and extensively patronized by Summer Tourists. NORTHAMPTON. MASS. First Class. Centrally and pleasandy located. A first class Livery connected with the Houi^e. ^m] HOTELS. 209 NORTH CONWAY, N: H. M wa: i=~?SsLr^" ft' n r, (I ft ,," t a (ft a a a .m-^ <-^ ■ . ^ ".iLc-,,^.— H*rT--i , rX J., il'iiii. 1--, ''"-v -rs- iyV c.'J>»' i V 1**^>' :■ MASS. i.-5*''=^??^S»si*f' , ..^■,^?^^^ ^..-^^jg^ Jr' J^Sryvf^ jsz g^t»r ••~v^-V^ imiimmTinii connected S'^W^^SP^'*'— . >J'i^ Uyb r THOMPSON, SON & -ANDREWS, Proprietors. THIS NEW AND KLEaANT HOTEL w»8 built witli a paiticiilar regard to the wants of plei^iire travel, ami h.iviiig over two huudrud rooms it has aniiile accommodations for three hundred guests. Tlie Dining Hall and Parlor are both large, well lighted and cheerful room^, being fitted up and furnished in the most complete and thorough manner. Dur- ing the past Winter these, with ult the pwblic rooms, have been richly frescoed, and the house is now complete in all its appointments and arrangements, making in all respects one of the moat comfortable, spacious and richly furnished of Sum- mer Hotels. The Sleeping Rooms are large, high and airy, and arranged sin^'y, or in suites for families ; thny are furnished entirely new, with especial reference to the com- fort and convenience of guests. Chandler's Band of Portland, is engaged for the season. Railroad facilities are the very be«t. Two Pullman Express trains run each way between Boston and North Conway uver the line of the Eastern, Portsmouth, Great Falls and Conway Railroad. Prssengers from New Vork and the West via Boston, c;in connect with the above routes. Via Concord, over the Bo.>iton, Concord and Montreal Railroad, leave the cars at Weirs and take the Boat across the Lake for Centre Harbor; and Irom there stages run to West Ossipee, connecting with tntins for North Conway. 8. W. THOMPSON. S. D. THOMPSON, I. N. ANDREWS. 210 HOTELS. SINCLAIR HOUSE, BETHLEHEM, N. H, This is now one of the most favorite resoi'ts for Tourists and Swmmer Boarders within easy distance of all the WHITE MOUNTAIN ATTRACTIONS, and from which point the whole range shows superbly. This House is now run by Mr. Durgin, who has perma- nently succeded Durgin and Ranlet. J. A. DURGIN- SE, HOTELS. THE 211 or. QUEEN'S HOTEL, Front Street, Toronto, ^Ontario. oi'ts for bin NS, rbly. as perma- N- THOMAS DICK, Proprietor. THOMAS McGAW. Manager. mgt/ie past year, undergone many improvements, in Additions Frescoing, new Parlor, ' cind Elegant Fur- niture. Much of the Purnitnre and Tapestry was ll^PORTED EXPRESSLY FOR THE QUEEN'S. i 212 HOTELS. m '■■■ • II NATIONAL HOTEL, WILLEY & HEAD, Proprietors, COR. OF ELM & GRANITE STS., MANCHESTER. - - N. H. John H. Willey, Frank S. Head. PARKER HOUSE. Fnrchase St., Cor. Middle & Elm, BULLOCK & BBOWNELL, Proprietors. p. BULLOCK. H. M. BROWN ELL. WHITE RIVER HOTEL, HARTFORD - - - - VERMONT. C. "W. PEASE, Proprietor. Livery Stable and Billiard Hall connected with the House. Guests and Baggage conveyed to and from the Depot Free of Charge. WOLFEBORO, JUNCTION, - - - N. H. J. W. PEESCOTT, Proprietor. LIVERY STABLE CONNECTED WITH THE HOUSE. HOTELS. 213 s, H. BAD. S. 5S. 3. i'oNT. Ld Baggage N. H. SPRING HOTEL, NEWBURY, VT., R. W. CHAMBERLAIN, Proprietor. Ihouse. This new and elegant Hotel located in the midst of the MOST CHABMZNa OF BIVEB, MOUNTAIN, VALLEY, AND LAKE SCENERY, and furnishing excellent drives, offers unrivalled induce- ments for TOURISTS AND SUMMER BOARDERS. In the immediate vicinity of the House are the CELEBRATED SPRINGS OF NEWBURY. For description, send for Circular. A first class Livery connected with this House. Carriages at Depot on arrival of train. R. W. CHAMBERLAIN, Newbury. Vt. June. 1874. i.'i - nil I": A *^^iM 214 HOTELS. Wacljusett tjouse^ ■m i-*i,'(«i r^f. '.U' PRINCETON, MASS. This House, pleasantly located at Princeton Centre, offers extra accommodations to PERMANENT AND TRANSIENT GUESTS. Stages leave this House, Conner nth ererr Train on the BOSTON, BARRE AND GARDNER R. R. P. A, BEAMAN & SON, Proprietors. HOTELS. 215 offers on the ors. I TOWN'S HOTEI, 1 By Charles Towns, BELLOW'S FALLS, VERMONT. This fins new Hjtel, pleasantly and desirably located in the beautiful vil- lage of BELLOW'S FALLS, VERMONT, U siirDundjl by the mo3t Ronaiutic Scenery, Rivers, Brooks, and Drives to be found iu any place of pleasure resort in New England. Situated on the line of travel between New York and the White M^untaiusi Saratoga, and Lake Qeorge, making one of the most desirable and favorite points to stop on the route. Tiie furnishing is elegant and elaborate, and the table not excelled in New England. Coaches at the DoDOt on arrival of Trains. A first-class Livery connected with the Hotel. 1 1 Ml 'm 216 HOTELS. lllllPi By GEO. A. LYNCH, ROCKLAND, I/AINE. i* |i This First Class and Finely Appointed Hotel is pleasantly and desirably located in the beautiful Tillage of Rockland, Me., and affords for the traveling public, Scenery, Comfort, Drives, and Facilities for Tourists not excelled in New England. A fine Livery connected with the House. Coaches at the Steamboat Landing and R. R. Station. ^ HOTELS. 217 41M1 Itlilt i By O. M. SHAW, AINE. BANGOR, id:^i]srE, lOTEL is kUage of Scenery, ^celled in Us at the Not excelled by any Hotel in the State, for elegance and completeness in every department, ofifering to the travelling public attractions facilites and comforts not inferior to the best and most noted Hotels. The location is fine and cen- tral, located as it is on one of the widest, pleasantest and most traT eled avenues in the city. Its rooms, both single and in suits are large and airy. The furnishing and appoint- ments of the best, and the tables of already well established excellence, while every convenience of a modern, first-class Hotel pertains to the House. A fine Billiard Hall and first-class Livery connected with the House. Coaches at all the Steam-boat Landings and R. R. Stations. 218 ADVERTISEMENT. NEW AIR LINE FROM BOSTON TO MONTREAL. A BIRD^S EYE VIEW OF THE ROUTE. / I The completion of the South-Eastern Railway, from New- port, Vt., to Montreal, forms the finishing link in an air line railway route fi'om Boston to Montreal, and places before both business men and pleasure travelers unprecedented and unrivalled advantages for travel between the commercial centres of New England and the New Dominion. To the advantages of the shortest distance and the quickest time, without which no line can successfully compete for travel in this age, is added the special charm of passing through the most beautiful and picturesque portions of New England, or, indeed, of the American continent. Leaving Boston, upon the Boston, Lowell and Nashua rail- road, from the largest and finest passenger station in New England, the traveler enjoys a ride through the charming suburban cities and towns of Cambridge, Somerville, Med- ford and Winchester, passes through Lowell, the far-famed '* city of spindles," up the busy and cultivated valley of the Merrimack, and over the Concord railroad through Nasliua, Manchester and Suncook, the leading manufacturing places in New Hampshire, to Concord. Here the Boston, Concord and Montreal railroad is taken, and after passing along the shores of the beautiful Lake Winnipesaukee through the Pemigewasset valley, and almost under the towering cliffs of the White Mountains, the valley of the Upper Connecticut is reached at Wells River, Vt. From Wells River to Newport, Vt., over the Passumpsic railroad and through the Connecti- cut and Passumpsic valleys, there is a rapid succession of beautiful river, mountain and lake views, which are nowhere excelled upon this continent, and which are scarcely second to the finest natural scenery of the Old World. The beautiful farming and manufacturing villages nestling among^the mountains and on the fertile banks of the swift run- ning streams, with the background of rugged mountain scenery, form a picture which none but the Omnipotent Artist could paint, and each successive mile is only a new ADVERTISEMENT. 219 revelation of tho magnificent grandeur of Northern New England scenery. At Newport there is the charming Lake Memphremagog, the queen of Vermont lakes, and lovers of the picturesque in Nature will find a longer or a shorter tarry at the hospi- table Memphremagog House, with sails upon the lake, and walks and drives about it, a most delightful and invigorating experience. From Newport to Montreal the route lies over the recently completed and opened South-eastern railway, which skirts along the shores of Lake Memphremagog, in sight of Jay Peak and other lofty mountains, and through the most at- tractive inland portions of Lower Canada, until the world- renowned Victoria bridge is entered and crossed, and the beautiful city of Montreal, the commercial metropolis of the Dominion, is reached. This brief reference to some of the more notable features of the natural scenery along the route gives but a faint idea of the wealth of picturesque beauty which Nature has lav- ished upon the country traversed by this line of roads, and no one has seen New England scenery at its best until he has passed through these valleys and along^hese lake shores and mountain sides,which have been hastily sketched above. The advantages of cheap excursion rates for such a line of travel as this, will easily commend themselves alike to those who travel for business or pleasure, and when it is added that arrangements have been made for cheap excursion rates to the white Mountains, over the White Mountains railroad to the Fabyan House, and up the famous Mount Washington railway, to Niagara Falls, Quebec, the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the Saguenay, the Thousand Isles, Lakes George and Cham- plain, and the Hudson River, the advantages or this line over any and all others will be easily apparent. Two through *^r»ins will run daily during the season, be- tween Boston ak u Montreal, one leaving in the morning, and the other in the early evening, and all the trains, will be equip- Eed with Miller platforms and Westing house brakes,and will e furnished with Pullman cars, parlor or sleeping. The day trains will stop for dinner at the elegant and well kept Pemi- gewasset House, at Plymouth, N. H., and for supper at the equally favorably known Memphremagog House, at Newport, yt.,and the managers of the line feel warranted in saying that no other line of travel in the country combines so many and 80 desirable features, as this one which they have now opened between the chief cities of New England and the Dominion of Canada. The Boston office is at 94 Washington street, and will be in charge of a gentleman, who, for the last six years, has sold tickets to American travelers. *i 'l! 220 ADVERTISEMENT. Commencing Monday, June Ist. THE &REAT NORTERN ROUTE for TOURISTS AND PLEASURE SEEKERS. THE NEW Hostreal & Boston Air Lioo, Composed of the Boston, Concord k Montreal B. B., Concord to Wells River, Passumpsic S. R., Wells River to Newport, Vt., South Eastern Rail- way, Newport to St. Johns, P. Q. Will on aud after June let run TW@) FAST i^^iiSS TMKNS Composed of new and elegant Cars provided with all modem improTements, from BOSTOir (Lowell Depot) to ioutreai Where connection is made with GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY for the West. Entire Trains, with Fnllman Cars attached, mn from BOSTON to MONTREAL without Change I AND ONLY ONE CHANGE TO CHICAGO ! No Route flrom Boston presents such Magnificent Scenery, and Passengers by this line travel through the PABADISE OF THIS CONTINENT ! ADV ERTISEMENT. 221 A continuous and most charming Panorama of River, Mountain, Valley and Lake Scenery will entertain the traveler Tor a distance or 250 miles, including the grand views of Lake Wianipesauke the White MouDtaia Ban^e, Passumpsic Kiver Valley, Crystal lake, and the BomaDtic Lake Mcmphreinagog. Trains stop 30 minutes for meals at the Pemigewassatt House, Plymouth N. H., and the Memphremagog. House, Newport, Vf. (See descriptive inuitor, OD the two previous pages.) SI^JBCIA-IL. INOTICE. TO TOURISTS and PLEASURE TRAVELERS. AT OCR QENERAL OFFICE And at all principal Ticket Offices in other New England cities, there will be on Sale during the Pleasure Season a variety of Tourists and Excursion Tickets, Made up in entirely new combination, including all Resorts, and Points of Interest throughout the Country. RATES AS LOW AS THE LOWEST. The Ticket Seller, at our office, has had a six vears experi- ence in Canada, with American Pleasure Trav^el, and will be found to be able to give THE MOST RELIABLE INFORMATION. Call at our offices for Birds-Eye View Circular of the Line and Time-Table. - GENERAL OFFICES: BosTOX, 94 Washington Street; Montreal, 202 Nt. James Srct; N. P. LoTEBiNO, Jr. GodM. Ticket Agt: Lrvh A Clvhk, Ticket Ai^ts., Bo.ion; QuSTAVi Lete, Passenger Agt. GORHAM, MT., WASHINGTON & GLEN HOUSE. Staoir connect at Gorham, N. II., with all trains on the Grand Trunk Railway fur the Olen House. Staoib leave tlie Glen House to connect with all trains on Iho Grun• •••••• G.(K) A. M. 7-5 " 1 .17 " flnrlnirfl#1d ...••• •• 2 3.5 " Allvn's Point Worcester {^^H;;- New Bedford «.••• 11.15 •' 4 35 '• Providence via Worcester 2 15 " ** Mansfield 1.20 " PrU River 11 15 A M TAiiutuu ....••••••••.••.... 1 1.50 p M Salem. .••..••••«..••«•••••• 4.60 " b Newburvuort 11.90 " 2 40 '• Portsniuuth ..••.. 6.10 •• *• Tkivflr .«>••>•■••>«••••■••• 611.00 " 612.34 P. M 1.00 " 1.36 " 1.06 « 2.20 " 3.05 " 3.30 " 3.36 " 3.51 " 4.06 '• 4.17 " 4.38 " 4.42 " 454 «» c6.18 " Haverhill 63.30 " TjOWmII.. ..•••.....••••••••. 7.00 " Niifihiin ...••.•••••••••••••• 7. 30 '* Lnwrence. •.•.•.••••••.•••. 6.05 " Miincheater. •«••.••••...••• 8.07 " c«— <■ 1*;:^::;: Knat rjnncord.. ....•...•...• 8.48 " 10.45 A. M. 10.61 " 11.09 " 11.18 " 11.30 " 11.53 " 11.58 " 12.10 P. M. 8.45 " 8.47 " Gauterburv 8.57 *♦ Northfleld 9.11 " Tllton 9 25 " Laconin .■.•.••••.•.>••««•« 11.35 11.40 1152 l.Oo 2.00 /6.00 7.(K) 3.00 ti tt P.M. t. •( 9 51 " Lake Villnirp 10.04 •• (f Weira. Steikiiiliuut.. ....... 10.05 " Centre Harbor.... {£;;^;^'; West Ossioee • 1 ,.,,,1 '. Nrtrth PonwAV. ............ Wolfuoro'. • ij.ao *• 6. ("5 •♦ 6.26 •' «6.40 " e7.35A.M. 7.58 " 807 " 8.29 " 9.16 " Meredith VillHtrc 12.20 " 12.41 " 12.65 " 1.20 " 1.41 » 1.50 " 2.14 •♦ 2.68 " 10.17 •' Anhland 10.40 " Unnmev ................... 12 ao I.IO It 11.16 " lATAilt RllDlllAV. ...«.>...... Warren 1.60 • * • . 12.04 A. M. IlaTerbiil uud Nowbury tains ntre'l Ex lU.UOA. M. 6.tM) P. M. 6.00 '* 1.37 " 2.35 " 4.35 " 1.20 " Vl.16 A.M. 1.50 p. M. 4.60 " 2 40 •♦ 6.10 " C5.18 " 63.30 7.00 730 6.06 8.07 8.46 8.46 8.47 8.57 9.11 9 25 9 5i 10.04 10.05 t( M i( tt t( (t t( M 10.17 10.40 11.16 12.04 A. M. BOSTOIT , QONCOBP, MONTRK AL AWhITI MO DNTAINH RAgROAP — COWCLOOro. TRAINS NORTH— LEAVE Ex. Tniin. , MtiTl Traini Kx. Train. Ex. Train. Woodsville . Wells River. Bath f Arrive. ( Leave. . Lisbon North Lisbuu Littleton, arrive Profile House, arrive Wing Road, " Bethlehem, " Sinclair House, " Twin Mt. Station, arrive. . . . White Mt. House, " Fabyan House " Mt. Wash'on Sum't " Crawford House, *' Whitefleld, " Dalton. *' So. Lancaster, " i^noiHter {£e"m::::: Waumbeck House, arrive. . . Nortbumberland Falls. Northnmb jrland, arrive. . . . Oorham, " . .. Qlen House, " .... St. Johnsbury " .... "-port {tzz::::. i.i^toM...AtzZ::: Arrive... Leave . . . Mimtreal via Piisninpsic and South E»8tern Montreil via Nurtbuui'laud arrive Quebec, " 2.38. Richmond 3.22 5.00 3.37 3.50 4.25 4 07 4.16 " 4.16 " 6.30 p. M. 6.00 " 4.00 " 4.32 6.00 6.00 6.18 6.30 3.26 •• 9.42 4.00 «( 10.05 4.06 10.00 4.20 10.20 4.35 10.51 4.60 11.06 5.05 ^11.16 6.30 1.00 6.26 gll.M 6.S0 gU.57 6.00 12J0 6.46 12.15 6.00 i< 12.46 6.00 II 1.00 «.00 " 6.43 •• 6.66 " 6.02 •' 6.06 " 8.00 " 6.35 •• 6.48 " 3 23 P.M. 5.03 " 5.25 " 9.00 " 10.00 " 2.05 A. M, 3.30 •• 0.33 P.M. P.M. II 2.00 " 11.60 A.M. 12.03 P. M. 12.08 •• y 12.2 1 2.00 12.36 12.45 4.16 6.00 9.00 " 10.00 " 2.06 A. M. 2.30 " 6.31 7 40 A.M. b.30 7.40 1.65 *• 215 " 5.00 " 6.30 •• 9.20 '• 8.46 •• 9.20 " 1.0U A. M iiiii « 1.68 " 9.30 aTbirty minuted for itiniier at the Pemigewasset House, Plymouth, and arrive at Littleton, Lancaster, Profile Hou.....) Wells River ... HaTerhill & Newbury.. East Haverhill ...*...... Warren 12 03 P.M. 144 " Wentworth 4 45 " West Runinev. ......... Rumnev • Quinoy Bridgewater A12 45 •' . 1 15 " /)12 22 P.M. 103 " 6 28 •* 6 48 " 7 30 A.M. 2 60 " Ashland 1 17 " 137 " 10 16 A.M. 7 20 " 8 00 " 7 46 " 8 10 " Meredith Village 6 24 " 3 00 " 3 29 " Wolfboro' No. Conway.. .. ...a..... 10 16 A.M. 7 20 " 8 00 " 1 00 P M West Ossipee Centre Harbor 7 30 '• 8 26 « 8 39 " 8 44 '« 8 67 •• 9 07 •• 9 25 " 9 35 " 9 68 " 10 06 '• 10 16 " Weirs, (steanibont) Lake Village 2 00 •• 214 •• 2 19 " 1 48 P.M. 2 00 ♦' 2 06 •* 2 19 " 2 28 •• 2 40 '• 2 48 ♦• 8 20 " 3 27 " 6 33 " 6 44 •• 6 49 " Laconia 4 00 " East Tilton 4 06 " Tilton 2 40 " 7 10 " Northfleld Canterbury Easl Concord .. ( Arrive. Concord -i Leave. . 3 20 " «3 26 " 3 40 " 7 60 " 7 50 " 5 20 " 5 30 " . , (.Leave.. 3 40 " 1 tains Ijjht Ex. 8 46 P.M. 9 00 •* 9 26 " 1134 •• • • • I • • • 1 12 33 A.M. 144 A.M. 2 50 3'i9 Bos ton, C onco rd, Mon treal A W hite Moutains Railroad- TRAINS SOUTH— Leave MMni-hb8ter Ifiive Lawrence Nashua Lowell HarerblU Dover PortainontL Newliurypori oftleiii •••••••••••••••••• So. FramingbHin Taunton Fall River Newport, R. I Providence New Bedford Worcester Allyn's Point Springfield Hartford Mew Haven Boston B. 4c M. Depot... Boston, Lowell Depot . . . New York, all rail N. Y. via Norwich Liiii' Strs., Pier N. River. . . . N. Y. via FhII River 8tri< Pier 28 North River.. iKx. Train Mt. Train. 3 58 5 30 4:^) 5 30 6 26 6 17 6 16 6 66 700 615 7 40 8 20 8 10 8 20 8 25 600 10 15 8 15 '• 126A.M 2 40 " 6 20 P. M 6 23 " 5 25 A M 11 ti ti II It It It tt II .1 •I ti It It II 4 20 6 30 4.'>8 5 30 6 26 6 17 6 15 6 55 700 615 7 40 8 20 8 10 8 20 8 26 7 10 1015 Ac. Triiiii 8 30 1 2«A.M 2 40 '* 6 20 p. M. 6 23 " 6 25 A.M. 5 00 5 (H) 5(K) 9 05 9 30 10 26 Kx coneliided. Train Night Kx 1(»58 " 12 16 p.m. 1145 a.m. 12 15 p.m. 1 :« " /3 00 " 2 16 135 3 18 4,46 625 3 30 4 08 200 a lb 7 20 830 1 16 1 15 11 12 6 10 7 30 7(X) 730 8 40 10 10 10 10 9 30 860 8 68 10 28 1107 1160 10 80 9 20 11 3ft " 1 50 P. M. 2 50 " 8 40 A. M. 8 30 " 5 16 P. U. aAlso leave Ql«^u House at 5.00 P, M., Oorham 6.05 P. M., via NiTtbthumberland Junction, arriving at Lancaster 8.15 p. M. 6Quebec and Montreal Day Express via Northumberland Junction arriving at principal White Mouutuin lIoiiRes, in time for tea. cTea at MemphrvmagOg House. dNew York Kxpress vIh Na^o run for a reusunable number of poHNongcrR upon hu it- able I otiCH by Mnil or T olc>);rapii. COACHES to atid from tbo Railroads and Hotels connect with all regular trains, both at the base and Suuiniit. JOHN W. DODGE. Manager. . LAKE WINNIPESAUKEeT 'k ti ft THE NEW STEAMER, UDY OF THE , Connecting at Weirs with the BOSTON, CONCORD & IjONTRE^L RAlLROi^D, Leaves Weirs for CENTRE HARBOB, CONWAY, NOBTH CONWAY, WHITE AND FBANCONIA MOUNTAINS, At 11.50 A. M., and 4.40 P. M., or on arrival of the trains from Boston. Passen- gers leaving Boston by the 7.30 A. M. train, via Boston ft Maine, or 8.00 A. M. Express, via Boston and Lqwell, arrive at Centre Harbor ^sailing over the most interesting portion of the Lake) one hour earlier than by any other route, and at Conway same evening; or by the 12.00 M. train, arrive at Centre Harbor and Wolfboro.' Passengers from New York, by the 5,00 P. M. train, via this route, arrive at Conway next evening. SAOaAOB CBBCSBD TBROUOB. RETURNma. Leaves Wolfboro' daily, at 6.30 A. M., 10.15 A. M. and 3 P. M., tonching at Dia- mond Island four times a day, to connect at Weirs with trains );oing No. k South. Leaves Centre Harbor at 7.30 A. M. and 1.00 P. M. for Boston and New York. Passengers leaving Conway, North Conway, Centre Harltor, or Wolfltoro' in the morning, arrive in Boston or New York 1^ hours earlier than by any other route. S. B. COLE, Captain. ▼r ADVERTISEMENT. 229 A FACT WORTH KNO^ArING. RECENT VALUABLE IMPROVEMENTS In the Construction and Voicing of the PRE8COTT ORGANS Render them unexcelled by any now made. KBW SOLO 8TOPS. EL.FGANT PANELED CASES. Priees very low. Special terms to introduce them where not already reprc^r .ted MANUFACTURED SOLELY BY THE PRESCOTT ORGAN CO., CONCORD, N. H. SEND FOR DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE AND PHOTOGRAPHS. ptain. Note. — Strangers visiting Concord, and all others interested, are cordially invited -to call at any time and examine these Organs. Office and Ware-rooms nearly opposite the State House. 230 ADVERTISEMENT. DO YOU WANT A NEW HARNESS? If so, befora you] buy, consult, either in person or by letter, with JAMIE8 Jl. HILL S et The only makers of the celebrated If CONCOTU) lAMESS, Which are the best to be had. All our Harnesses are made by hand. Every part of each Harness made in OUR OWN SHOP. Every Harness made FROM THE BEST SELECTED STOCK. Every Harness HAND-STITCtfED, CUSTOM- MADE and WARRANTED TO BE AS REPRE- SENTED. IF YOU WANT A Fine Carriage Hamelss, A Fine Buggy Harness, A Fine Driving Harness, A Fine Hack or Coach Harness, A Good Express Harness, A Qood Store Harness, A Good lixery Harnesn, A Good Team Harness, A Good Business Harness, A Strong Work Harness, A Harness of any kind. Send ui "your urdern at once |or come In person «nd Bee us. Every IInni''»fl '. made under our own porRonal ■uperviHiuu. The test of every climate from Khh to WeHt, and from between North and South proves them to lie uiieqnall"d. le sure aud see MB or write to UB before you buy. YOU CAN SAVE MONEY AND (.ET A BETTER HARNESS. For prices, circulars, or any information concerning Harnesses, 11^ Please read what they say about the Concokd Har- ness, between pages 44 and 45 of this book. Address JAMES E. HILL & CO., CONCOUD, N. H. ADVERTISEMENTS. 231 ONE PRICE. GOODS MARKED IN PLAIN FIGURES. DUPUY & DUPUY, Watchmakers and Jewellers^ Stationers and Booksellers, Musical Insirnments, Fancy Goojs, Toys, Spectacles ani Wall Paper. LARGEST AND MOST COMPLBTB STOCK IN THl DOMINION Of Ladies* and Oents* Gold and Silver Watches, Chains, Sets of Jewelry, Silver Ware and Diamonds. Repairing neatly and promptly executed. SHERBROOKE, P. Q. WELLINGTON STREET. . MANUFACTURER AND DEALER IN FURS, HATS AND CAPS. IMPORTER AND SHIPPER OF FIRS AND SKINS. Work made to order in the Latest Styles and Lowest Price of Goods. Assortment of Ladies' and Gentlemen's Fm's always on hand, and equal to any in the Dominion. Highest Cash Pi'ioe paid for New Fure*. 232 ADVERTISEMENTS. U. S. CURRENCY EXCHANGED FOR GOLD AND SILVER. v« A« fl« Wholesale and Retail Dealer in Dry and Fancy Goods, Boots & Shoes, IMPORTER OF BLACK, GROS-QBAIN AND GOLOBED SILKS, PaisJey and Cashmere Shawls, Fancy Dress Goods and Ladies' French Kids, WEIililNGTON ST., - SHEBBBOOKE, P. q. ONE PRICE. GOODS MARKED IN PLAIN FIGU' KS. DUSSAULT & ROBINSON, ^JfD CLOTHIERS, WBUiIHQTON SnilTy SHERBROOKE, R Q. LVER. ADVERTISEMENT. 233 SHELDONS & SLASON, ?ii hoes, WHOLESALE .KS, :h Kids, S. QUABBIES AND STEAU MILL, WEST EUTLAND, VEKMONT. ). CHARLES SHELDON, JOHN A, SHELDON, CHARLES H. SLASON, CHARLES H. SHELDON. 234 ADVERTISEMENT. Established 1849. Inoorporatod 1866. MANUFACTURERS OF CAED BOAED OF EVEE7 DESCEIFTION, AND Olazed, Plated, Bnameled and Bmboased Papers. ALSO ^F(OPF^IETOR^ OF JJaQLE JIIaRD j]Io. P. S. Special attention paid to Litho^f^aphio Papers for Steam Press Work; and, also, a White Paper which will not blacken with Bronze or Leaf, SEND FOR SAMPLES AND PRICE LISTS. NASHUA, N. H. ADVERTISEMENT. ' 235 ISTIS & LAVBIAT. BoolLseller!!, Fnlilislieri!, M Importers, 143 WASHINGTON ST., OpposUe Post Office, \Vl MAKE A 8PECIALITT OF CHOICE SUMMER READING, And hare on hand a Fine Assortment of the LATEST NOVELS, GUIDE BOOKS, &C. We have just issued ELENA, Ab Italian Tale, By L. N, COMTN, author of ♦• Atheretone Priory," " Bllice," Ac, Ac. One vol. 12ino. $1.50. ** It is a cuptivatioR Ioto story. The horoine is one of the sweeten^ of the girls of fiction.— xV. V. Tribunr.. '* An Italian otory of great power and boanty ; one that is sure to !ive." — Leeds JUercuri/. " ' filena ' is one of the most elegant and interesting fictions of the season." — London Messenger. " A TOi-y ple.Hsing and touching story. It is sure to be read." — Lond'm Daily News. Tour on the Rhine, and other Ex:cursion$, By VICTOR HUQO. With descriptions of Curiosities, Legends, Antiquities t\nd iinportaiit Places and Events. 1 vol Crown 8to. Laid Paper, $2.50 Shaw's Tourist's Picturesque Guide. TO GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND. Prepared expressly for the use of American Travelers. It contains DS Colored Plates, and a large number of Ku- graviugs, New Maps, etc. lOmo. Cloth, Gilt, Tuck. tA.M. *We would remind the ^rade that the senson for foreign travel will soon open, and that this Uiiide Book IxMUi; the latest and best one in the market is the sufeat one to have in stock. Our Vacations, and How to Eiyoy Them. Being an account of the cheapest and best method of spending a few weeks at the White Mountains, the Seai^hore, the Canadas and other popular resorts. It is written to assist those who desire to get the large<otion as Conn. V AZINE. Ltlt. EADING rHER NCE gazine. ) Tsriod in its ."—r/iiladel- plHyed iu the N. Y. ionaries. B 12.00. e, $5.00. , charges ADVERTISEMENTS. 237 CHOICE I CHARMING I CHEAP I 111 llEilEY t A Monthly Magazine for Totingest Eeaders. This unique and much admired work, begun in 1867, and now a welcome and trusted visitor in every intelligent family where there is a child, retains its Un- rivaled Corps of Contributors and Artists, and gives in every number a profus- ■ion of THE CHOICEST PICTURES, Executed in the best and most costly style, and designed especiitliy for the young The peculiar features that have distinguished it thus far will uliuracterize it dur- ing the current year ; and New and Varied Attnictions Will be continually added. Subscription^ may begin with any number; and back numbers, either separately or in beautiful bound volumes, can be always upplied. Terms. — $1.50 % year in advance. 15 Cents a single number. A Sp«cimen Copy M^ill bo sent for Ten cents. JOHJ^ L. SHORE Y, 36 Bromfield Street, Boston, Mass. WORCESTER'S QUARTO DICTIONARY. THE STANDARD. Worvester's Royal (laarto Dictionary , The Largest I The Cheapest I The Beit. (Illustrated,) is a massive volume of 1854 pages, and contains considerably more than one, hundred Chousand words in its vocabulary, with their pronunciation, definition and etymol ogy. New editioiiH nf l¥orcester'8 Comprshcnstve Diction* ary. Price t t.OO, and Pri- mary Dictionary, (illustrat- ed,) Price, 02 cent«l, have been recently issued. " Worcester's Pocket Dictionary," just published. For sale by booksellers generally. BBEWBK A TILESTON, Boston. 238 ADVERTISEMENT. AMEEICAU SCEUERT. '^^• Fine Engravings for Home Decoration. "WVj are Agents for the following exquisitely engraved Steel Plates, which have heen painted and engraved by tiie flneut American artiHts, nt.a cost of over $15.- (M)0. The subjects are from pictures expressly painted for these engravings by tlie following artists : SENT BY MAIL OR EXPRESS. PREPAID, ON RECEIPT OF PRICE. Printed on Fine Paper, 18 X 23, India Proo& on)y, $2 per copy. (On receipt of $6 we will tend any three of within list.) SUBJECT. Chocorua Peak, White Mountains, Trenton Falls, New York, ... Upper Ausable Lake, Adirondacks, . • Sngar-Loaf Mountain, Winona, Minn. • Natural Bridge, Virginia, . . . Dismal Swamp. North Carolina, Wharf and Shipping, New York City, ■ Near Leeds, Oreen County, N. Y., > Junction of the St. Mary'd and St. \ JoHeph's Rivers, near Ft. Wayne, Ind. j Indian Rock, Narragansett<^ay, - Croton Point, Hudson River, . . . Wabash River, near Yincennes, Ind. On the Ilousatonic, near) Stockbridge, Mass. J • • • Lake tiuorge, New York, - . - On the Prairie, . - . - . Hayne's Falls, Catskill Mountains, Lake Champlain, from St. Albans, Y t. - Niagara Falls, - . . . On the Susqurhanna, near) Groat Bend, N. Y., / ' " Upper Mississippi, near I . . . Lansing, luwa. I ' * ' On the Peniigewassett, 1 . , New Hampshire, J * " EvRiiHville, on the Ohio. The Meadows, Orange County, N.T. Yosemite Valley, California, DBAWIf OR PAINTED BT XNaRAVID BT J. W. Oasilear, H. A, J. F. Kensett, J. D. Smillie. W. Atomberger. R. Binthelwood. R. Gignotm. B. Colman. George Innett. W. Momberger. M. F. H. De Haat. WiUtam Hart. W. Momberger. J.M. Hart W. Momberger. William R. Beard. W. Momberger. R. W. Hubbard. W. Momberger. George H. Smillie. W. Momberger. George L. Brown. W. Momberger. W. Witteredge. Tftomat Hill. R. Hinshelwood . R, Hinshelwood. J. D. Smillie. r. Batch. R. Hm»helwi:od. J. Duthie. H 8. BeckwUh. R. Hmifhelwood. r. Balch. R. Hinshelwood. R. Dudensing. R. Hinshelwood. R. Hinshelwood. R. Hinshelwood. R. Hinshelwood. J. Ires Pease. W. Wellslood. R. Hinshelwood. J. D. Smillie. R. Henshelwood. S. A. Bchof. R. Hinshelwood. C. Rost. R. Hinshelwood. Catalogue containino oyer 700 Fine Engravings SENT TO ANY ADDRESS. Address, E. R. PELTON, Publisher, 108 Fulton Street, K, Y. ADVERTISEMENT 239 ration. ■.which hare of over $15.- iDgraviiigB by RICE, ipy. raRATID BT Hinthelwood . Hinsbettvood. >. Smillie. Hatch. Hinthelwaod. Duthie. 8. Bfckwith. Hinifhelwood. 3alch. Winshelviood. }uden.nng. 'Jimhelwood. lituhelwood. ^inshelwood. lins/ielwood. ret Pease. Welltlood. linihelwood. 7. Smillie. fenthelwood. I. Bchof. Hnthelwood. ioit. iinthelwood. payings isher, t, N. Y. ScrMer's MontUy for 187i The unexampled favor accorded to the conductori of this Magazine enables them tu euter upon the year with the means of making it more attractive aod valuable than ever before to its large and increasing number ol readers. 66 THE SERIAL STORY OF THE YEAR, K-A.THERINE EARLE," By AsELiiri Traftom, Author of " An American Girl Abroad," Commenced in the November number, is complete, In the hands of the publishers. It is a charming love story by a gifted writer, and we predict for it a wide popularity. There will be BRILLIANT NOVELETTES AND SHORTER STORIES BY BRET HARTE, SAXE HOLM. REBECCA HARDING DAVIS, KATE PfjTNAM OSGOOD, And other able writers. The best short stories written will be secured in the future, as they have leen in the past, for Scribnzr's Montult. The Splendid Series of Illustrated Papers, "THE GR EAT SOUTH." By Edward King (with illustrations from Sketches by Champnfy), com mencod in November, will be continued through the year. The imnienHe itniount of labor bestowed upon this series of articles has alone delayed its appfsratice. It is intended that it shall be the beet, as it has been the most expcnsivp, ever givt-n to the American public through the piigesot a magazine. The next Papers in order will be two on **Th« Lone Star Btate,'* and three on "The Mountain Region? of the South," to be followed by others not yet written, on Missuuri, Kentucky,TenneBMie, and other Southern States A series of STRIKING AND UNIQUE POEMS : "Ol-D TIME;MUSIC," By Benjamin F. Taylor, long known for his brilliant contributions to tlie West- ern Prt-BS, are in preparation. They will sing to uh again the niufiic of "The Spinning Wheel," " The Stage Coach," -The Flail," Ac, and will be benutifully illustrated. Portraits and Biographical Sketches uf American Authors will be continued by various skillful hands. We have in preparation a series of illus- trated articles on Dairy Farming and Stock Raising iu Europe, which will be of the greatest practical interest and value to our farmers. Papers on Furniturt- and Household Decoration are in course of preparation. Besides these serials we taavo more than fifty single illustrated articles, prepared and waiting for the chance to be published — articles which it would absorb too much space to mention. Of the Essays, the Poems, the Sktttches of Travel, tho Editorial Discussions of Moral and Social questions, of Science, Literature, Art, and Domestic Economy, which, after all, will make up the staple ot every number, we can only say that they shsli be as good as they have been, and better if they can be made so. 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Only Two Tranahipmentt between Liverpool and Chicago or Cfincinnati. • Ooods sent through in Bond. JtSg' The cheapest and best route to all points East and West. 49* Close Connections made with all Connecting Lines, and Through Tickets issued to all important points. 4^ Acceleration of speed on the Express Trains. JSSS' New Cars on all the Express Trains. 49* Pullman's Palace and Sleeping Cars are now run on Grand Trunk Line. 49* Fur San Francisco, Sacramento, Salt Lake City, Omaha, and inturmediate |)lace8 on the Pacific Railway, the Grand Trunk ia tlie must direct. Splendid Palace Cars are now run lietween Chicngu and i>aruia without change. 49* From pa-ssengers holding through tickets, American money is received at par, tor Sleeping Berths and Refreshments. Be Sure and ask for Tickets via the Grand Trunk Railway. C. J. BRYDGES) manaffinir Director. WM. WAIN WRIGHT, Oen. Patttmger Agent, MontreaL , tt^ -HP ■ m- "■ > f^^^^^fW^W^m^^mmm r^^7"\' "■p V,; I » '"■ • 1. u 'v^'^^. 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