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2 s

*' >vov' m?

SAILING DIRECTIONS

fOR THE

•il
(I

GULF AND RIVER

ST. LAWRENCE;

HENRY ^OLSEY BAYFIELD,

CAPTAIN ROYAL NAVY. F.R.A.S.

•I
II

BEING THE RESULT OF A SURVEY MADE BY ORDER OF THE
LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY.

LONDON: •
PRINTED FOR THE HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE.

MUCCCXXXVII.

^ 7/, y

LONDON:

I'riiitetl by William Ci.dwks nnd Sons
Stamfunl Strei't.

INTRODUCTION.

Full and clear directions are given in the following pages
for entering the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; for passing the Mag-
dalen Islands ; for approaching the River either on the north
or on the south side of Anticosti ; and for navigating the
Estuary of the St. Lawrence, under every change of circum-
stance, as far up as Bic and Green Island. Beyond those
islands no stranger should venture to proceed without the
assistance of a pilot.

They have been drawn up by that skilful officer, Captain
Bayfield ; and, as they are perfectly sufficient to enable any
seaman to conduct his vessel not only with safety but with con-
fidence into pilotage-water, it has been thought proper not
to withhold such highly important information from the
public until the whole survey should be finished. The
survey is still in rapid progress; and, when complete,
these Sailing Directions will be extended around the entire
circuit of the Gulf, and will also "minutely describe all
the navigable channels of the River as far as the cities of
Quebec and Montreal.

Hydrographic Office,

November 9, 1837.

M
H
II

1£

'20
21
21
2.}

CONTENTS.

PART I.

C H A P T K R I.

(jenoriil K'-miirks.

1. Former Charts of the St.Lawronee

2. Massey's Soiindin^^ Machine

3. Variatiun

4. Deviation

5. Majjaetic Action of the Shore
C. Ice

7. FoKs

8. Winds an<l Weather

9. The Marine Barometer .

Puge
1
2
3
3
3
4
4
5
7

CHAPTER II.

r.eue,«, Remark, respecting the Currents an., Tidal Streams in Che St. I.a.rence.

10. Prevailing Currents ...

11. Currents at the Entrance of the Gnlf

12. Current in through the Strait of Belle Isle

13. Its Course after entering the Gulf

14. Main Current of the River

15. Its Course and Rate

16. Round Point de Monts .

17. Along the South Coast . . [

18. Remarks on the Tides of thi> \n,*u n ^ i< .

Monts . "***' *^<«'tw'»"» of Point de

11
11
12
12
J 3
17
18
18

( HAPTKR III.

Oenera. Directions for Navigating ,h. Gulf and Ri,er of Su Law.ence
19. Vj^eUeutering the G,df should endeavour to make the Island of

-S^. The Passage Northward of Anticosti .

2'?. The Passage Southward of Auticosti. . "

20
21
22
23
2.5

CONTENTS.

a4. Anticosti to Point de Monts, with fair and with Iwatinj? Wimis
25 Point de Moats to Bicquette Island, with easterly winds and thitk
weather. An Instance of the fatal consequences of neglectinj''

the Deviation of the Compass. Pilots

2(i. Point de Montd to Bicquette, with southuily and with northerly
Winds. Instances of the effects of the Currents and Tides.

27. Bicquette to Green Island Li);htho\i8e

28. Beating uj) the Kstuary with westerly Winds ....

29. Returning down the Estuary and Gulf .....

I'll!!!'

2ti

32
34
3(i
3!)

CHAPTER IV.

The Isttinds in tlie Gulf of St. Lawrence.

30. Island of St. Paul 43

31. Bird Rocks 44

32. Bryon Island .40

33. Ueadman Islet 47

34. Magdalen Islands 48

3d. Description of <he Southern side of the Ma);dalens, and the Reefs

and Anchoring:; places, with Directions . . . . .50

36. Description of the Northern side of the Magdalens. and the Dangers,

with Directions ......... 5s

37. Tides and Currents around the Magdalens ..... (10

38. The Island of Anticosti, general Description, Provision Posts, and

Lighthouses ......... 62

39. Description of the Southern Coast of Anticosti, with Directions . Cli

40. Descriptionof the Northern Coast of Anticosti, with Directions . 71

41. Remarks upon the Currents and Tides around Anticosti . . 75

■>7i

CHAPTER V.

The South Cuust of the Oulf anil River of St. Luwmice, from (>.-ispe lu Green IsIhdiI.

42. Preliminary Remarks ......../

43. Cape Despair and Leauder Shoal, Bonaventure Island. Perce

Rock, Mai Bay. Point Peter, and Flat Island . . . ;

44. Gasp^ Bay. Cape Gaspe. and Flower-pot Rock. Seal Rocks.

Douglas Town, and Roadstead. River St. John
43. Oasp^ Harbour. The N.W. and S.W. Anns. The Basin .

46. Tides, Currents, Winds, and Soundings .....

47. The South Coast from Cape Gasp6 to Cape Chutte. Cape Rozier.

Griifin Cove. Great Fox River. The Great Pond. Magdalen
River. Mont Louis River. St. Anne and Chatte Rivers. Cape
Chatte

48. Cape Chatte to Barnaby Island, River Matiin. Little Metis.

Grand Metis. Cock Cove, and Mount Camille. Father Point,
Rimousky Road. Barnahy Island ......

49. Barnuby Island to the Riizade Islets. Cape Arignole ; its Bays

and Reefs. Old Bic Harbour. Bic and Bicquette Islands; their
Reefs, and the Alcide Rock. Auchorages at Bic. Tides. Kdgo
of the South Bank 91

82
85

59,

60.
61.
62.
63.

64.

C.5.

6(!.
07.

CONTENTS.

50, The Razade Islets. Basque Island. Apple Island. Green Island,

Lighthouse, Reef, Anchorage, and Tides . . . .102

M
(10

62
6f)
71
75

CHAPTER VI.

Tlio North Coast of the Gulf and River SL Lawrence from St. John Kiver to I'oint du
Monta; and from thence to Little Bergeron near the Saguenay.

52.

5.3,
54.

56.

57.

General Description of the Coast from the River St. John to the
Rivur Moisic. Magnetic Nature of the Coast, Appearance of
and Approach to the Shore .......

River St. ,lohn, Magpie River, Sawbill River, Shallop River,
Manitou River, Basin River, Point St. Charles. River Moisic,
and the Coast and Dangers .......

The Shoal to the westward of Point Moisic. Seven Islands Bay .

The Coast from the Seven Islands to Point de Monts, River St.
Margaret. Cawee Islands. Lobster Bay. Pentecost River.
English Point. Kgg Island and Reefs. Calumet River. Caribou
Point. Trinity Bay. Point du Monts Lighthouse. Point de
Monts, and detached Rocks .......

The North Coast of the Kstuary, to Point St. Giles. St. Augustin
Cove. Goodboiit River. St. Nicholas Harbour. St. P.incras
Cove. English Bay ........

Manicouagon River. Maniciiuagon Shoal. Outard River. Outard
Bay. Bersimis River ........

Bersimis Point and Shoals. Jeremy. Cape Colombier. Gulnare
Shoal. Wild Fowl Reef. Plongeur Bay. Bale de Laval. Port
Neuf River. The Port Neuf Sands

Point Milles Vaches. Milles Vaches Bay, and the Coast lu the
south-westward. Great and Little Bergeron Coves .

106

107
113

118

126

129

134

137

82
85

•)l

CHAPTER VII.

The North Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence from Lake Island to the River St. JobD.
including the Mingan Islands.

59. General Description of the Coast, from Lake Island to Natashquan

Point 139

(iO. Whittle Rocks. Wolf Bay and Islands 140

61. Coacoacho Bay and its Harbours . . . . . .141

62. Olomanosheebo, Wash-shecootai, and Musquarro , . . 143

63. Kegashka Bay, Kegashka River, and the Coast between it and

Natashquan Point. Mont Joli Cod Banks .... 144

64. General Descripticn of the Coast from Natashqtian Point to the

Mingan Islands . . . . . . . . .147

65. Natashquan River. Little Natashquan Harbour. Washtawooka,

Agwanus, and Nabesippi Rivers. Pashasheebo. Mushkoniatawee.

Washatnagunashka. Watcheeshoo, Quetiichoo-Manicouagon.

Peashtebai. Appeeletat 148

6fi, The M-ngan Islands, general Description ..... 152
07. St. Genevieve and Hunting Islands. The Saints. Bowen Rocks.

The Harbours of St. Genevieve and Bctchewin . . . .154

Vlll

CONTENTS.

68. Charles Island and the Bays on eithur side of it. Charles Harbuiir .

69. Clear Water Shoals. Walrus and Sea Cow Islands, with the

Channels leading to Esquimaux Harbour. Green, Oull, Eiiquimaux,
Fright, andQuin Islands, with their Reefs and the Channels
between them. Quin Channel ......

70. Esquimaux Harbour

71. Niapisca Island. Quarry Island and Cove. Quarry Channel. Large

Island. Middle Reef. Birch Islands. Mingan Island. The
Perroquets ....••••••

72. Mingan Channel between the Islands and the Main. Mingan

Harbour. Long Point to St. John River

Pace
15S

160
162

164

167

Tt^i' " i.t ; »

SAILING DIRECTIONS

•■i.j\.-*^

FOR THE

GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

PART L

SBAStlirOS AB.X DKaOWBTXO - TBB MnXS AlbB
60 TO il SBOltBB - Aim TBB OAB&BB AllB 100
rATBOlMCS.

CHAPTER I.

GENERAL REMARKS.

1. Former Charts of the St. Lawrence, — 2. Massey's Sounding; Machine. —
3. Variation. — 4. Deviation. — 5. Magnetic Action of the Shore. —
G. Ice. — 7. Fogs.— 8. Winds and Weather. — 9. The Marine Barometer.

1. The navigation of the Gulf and River of St. Lawrence has Former Charu.
always been supposed to be attended with a considerable degree
of difficulty and danger, and the numerous accidents which are
constantly occurring to vessels there seerti to show that the
opinion is well founded. The want of soundings, in many parts,
near the shores ; the irregularity of the tides and currents ; the
severity of the climate, especially towards the close of the navi-
gable season ; and, above all, the frequent fogs, are difficulties
which may well cause much anxiety in the mind of the seaman,
and which call for the exercise of all his vigilance, prudence, and
ability. Nevertheless, a very large proportion of the losses which
annually take place, may, I think, be attributed to other than
these natural and irremediable causes. Erroneous charts, a want
of knowledge of the direction and strength of the tides and cur-
rents, and a false variation of the compass, are, although not the
only, certainly the most frequent causes of shipwreck in the
St. Lawrence. It is hoped that these last will be removed by the
survey, which has been made by order of the Lords Commis-
sioners of the Admiralty, and by these directions and remarks,
written also by their command, in order to accompany that survey.

(1
>i

M I

GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

D*» narrei
Charts,

Afamiei/'s
•SouHilinuf
Alac/iine.

Of the various charts of the St. Lawrence which have hitherto
been in use, those of Major Holland, re-published by Des Barrcs
in 1778, are the least inaccurate, yet the least in general use.
The others appear to be taken from them, with alterations, which
seem to rest on no better foundation than the fancy of the chart-
makers, who, in their compilations from materials generally inac-
curate, appear to have considered the latest as necessarily the best
intbrmation. The effect of this has been the retention of old
errors and the addition of new ones, for it so happens that the
most recent charts of the St. Lawrence at present in use, arc the
iiiost erroneous of any. In Des Barres* charts, although thus
mentioned as the best, the errors and omissions are numerous and
important. The soundings arc generally incorrect, frequently so
much so as to be directly contrary to the truth ; for he occasion-
ally shows a moderate depth of water, where there should be
100 fathoms or more, and in other places a great depth where
there is bottom to be found with the hand lead. Commanders of
ships having found that they could not trust to the soundings in
these, and the other charts, have considered it of no use to sound,
from which many fatal accidents have occurred within my own
knowledge.

2. In the Admiralty charts will be found accurate soundings,
taken with Massey's patent sounding machine, which gives the
exact perpendicular depth independent of the effect of currents or
drift of the vessel. I strongly recommend the use of this excel-
lent instrument, with which every vessel, in my opinion, ought to
be furnished. It is not expcuBive, ard will last with care for a
long period of time : correct soundings may be obtained with it in
30 fathoms of water without heaving to, if the vessel be not
tailing at a rate e.\cccding 7 knots ; and no vessel ought to be
permitted to run faster, in a thick fog, or dark night, when in the
vicinity of land, or otiicr danger. Furnished with this instrument,
or, instead of it, with Butt's buoy and nipper, and with correct
charts, a vessel may be run in snCtty up the b^t. Lawrence as high
as Green Island. In sliort, there as cli-cwlicre, correct soundings
are the best of all guides to the navigator.**

• There is no difficulty in the tise of MasseyS |>iiti>nt ioiindtn|{ machinO)
and it is xuld iiccoui|)fiiiiril with iliri-ctiuiiH fur bi-ttin^, rvndin); it* indicu-
liiinn, .ti'. The foiiinuui tli'i'ii si' i Iciiil line is luit Nlruiin t.<ni)Uf;h to lii'iir the
itrnia ol thu Iviid and uttttchLUuuicliiuu. WItcu tiiu vumkcI h guinK fuiit through

GENERAL REMARKS.

therto
Jarres
1 use.
which
chart-
f inac-
lic best
of ohl
lat the
irc the
h thus
}us and
sntly 80
jcasion-
ould he
li where
iidcrs of
dings in
,0 souiid,
my own

mnchinei
Lts imUcu-
1) \ii'iir lilt'
l8tthruui;h

3. The variation, given in Des Barrcs' charts, was probably Erroneous /'«-
correct for the time when the charts were made ; and though "" ""**
greatly changed since, has been copied nevertheless into most of

the charts in general use. For instance, in some of those charts
the variation at Anticosti is given as 17° west, too little by three-
quarters of a point. The effect of this upon the run of a vessel
from the entrance of the Gulf to Anticosti, or from the latter to
Point de Monts, will be obvious to any seaman, and has doubtless
occasionally been one cause of shipwreck.

4. There is another source of error, independent of charts Deriaiion, ur
altogether, which it is astonishing to find obtaining so little ,/„',_
attention, particularly in the merchant service, considering how

much has been written concerning it of late years. I allude to the
deviation, or local attraction of the needle. This subject may be
seen fully treated in Mr. Barlow's treatise on magnetic attrac-
tion ; and Sc^resby in his works on the arctic regions, and on the
Greenland whale fishery, gives many valuable and practical
directions respecting the methods available under different cir-
cumstances, for finding its amount in various positions of the
ship's head, and applying a correction accordingly to the course
steered. The amount of error from this cause will be a point of
the compass in most vessels, and, in particular circumstances,
may become twice that quantity in those latitudes.

5. An opinion is prevalent that the compasses of vessels arc Miifj/neUr
disturbed in the Gulf and River St. Lawrence, and such dis- "iJre.
turbance has been attributed to the magnetic ores of iron in tlic

hills, particularly those of the north coast. The magnetic oxide
of iron does exist abundantly, and attracts the needle very power-
fully at some points, particularly along the const from the Bay of
Seven Islands eastward. Among the Mingan Islands, we found

the watuT, a nupcriur line HhuuUlbe um])loyi'd fur the imrpoiiv. Whon Hailing;
ut a ratu nut uxcuciliiiff .'■ kiiut!i, liuttuin may bu struck in .')U tUihuinvui' wiitur,
and when goin); Hlower, at Htill )^i'uti-r (lF|ith§ ; liiit thi> hnllow rylinder nf thu
wiiifp will sfldum hear thu pii'bmiru, at dcjiths much exci't'din^; lUU lathumy.
The deep Nea lead line, with the niacliine uttavhed, 8hutild be puimed I'ui ward,
from the weutlur ([uarter of tlio vessel, uutsidu all, to the weather cathead,
or bowitprit end. If going nIuw, it nmy lio dropped, viry conveniintly,
from the weather ^anpvny, a1 aft tliu fore ri^gin^:, taking cart!, in ail
eaaei, to drop it pcrpundicidurly into the sea, and not to throw, or Nwing it,
M ii Mometimei carelently done. An iron staunchion, to ship and iniship. on
either quarter an required, with a snuill iinutrh-blork attached, to pHSH thu
line through, will en<ible I or .'> liandH to walk the lend line in uith e.ise and
expedition, Mr. MavHey Iiuh recently much improved thiit tnuchinv.

I
(i

M
It

GITLF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

Magnetic
action of the
shore.

■'I

A» effect at a
(li.slatice.

hi:

I'lKi':.

the variation to vary from this cause from 19" to 31* west. A
Port Neuf, and on Manicouagon Point, the needle was also
disturbed. But these effects were only noticed when the instru-
ment was placed on the shore. In two instances only, when
sailing within two miles of the shore, have we observed any
effect of the kind upon the compasses on board the Gulnare,*
and then only to the amount of a few degrees.

When running from place to place, at greater distances from
the coast, nothing of the kind has been noticed ; so that I feel
sure, that in nine cases out of ten where this source of erroneous
reckoning has been alleged as the cause of accidents to vessels,
they originated either in errors of the chart, or in the local attrac-
tion on board the vessels themselves.

6. Among the difficulties of the navigation may be mentioned
the ice. In spring the entrance and eastern parts of the Gulf
are frequently covered with it, and vessels are sometimes beset
for many days. Being unfitted for contending with this danger,
they often suffer from it, and are occasionally lost ; but serious
accidents from this cause do not frequently occur, because the
ice is generally in a melting state from the powerful effect of
the sun in spring. In the fall of the year accidents from ice
seldom occur, except when the winter commences suddenly, or
when vessels linger imprudently late from the temptation of
obtaining high freights.

7. But all danger from ice is far less than that which arises
from the'prevalencc of fogs : they may occur at any time during the
open or navigable season, but arc most frequent in the early part
of summer ; they are rare, and never of long continuance during
westerly winds, but seldom fail to accompany an easterly wind
of any strength or duration. The above general observation
is subject, however, to restriction, according to locality, or
season. Thus winds between the south and west, which arc
usually clear weather winds above Anticosti, are frequently ac-
companied with fog in the eastern parts of the Gulf. Winds
between the south and east are almost always accompanied
with rain and fog in every part. E. N. £. winds above
Point dc Monts, are often E. S. E. or S. E. winds in the Gulf,
changed in direction by the high lands of the south coast, and
IiHVc therefore in general the same foggy character. I speak of

* Thu achuuiKT tn wliich the hurvry has b««n carried un.

;. A
,8 also
nstru-
when
id any
Inare,*

:8 from
it I feel
roneous
vessels,
attrac-

jntioned
the Gulf
cs beset
I danger,
t serious
ause the
effect of
from ice
enly, or
:ation of

arises
urmg the
arly part
e during
ly wind
servation
ality, or
lich are
cntly ac-
Winds
mpanicd
in above
he Gulf,
oast, and
epenk of

GENERAL REMARKS.

winds of considerable strength and duration, and which probably
extend over great distances. Moderate and partial fine weather
winds may occur without fog at any season, and in any locality.
In the early part of the navigable season, especially in the months
of April and May, clear weather, N. E. winds are of frequent oc-
currence, and they also sometimes occur at other seasons, in every
part of the Gulf and River St. Lawrence.

The fogs sometimes last several days in succession, and to a Lasting Fujs
vessel either running up or beating down, during their continu-
ance, there is no safe guide but the constant use of the deep sea
lead, with a chart containing correct soundings.

The fogs, which accompany easterly gales, extend high up into llnjh I'uys,
the atmosphere, and cannot be looked over from any part of the
rigging of a ship. They, however, are not so thick as those wliicli
occur in calms after a strong wind, and which are frequently so
dense as to conceal a vessel within hail ; whilst the former often,
but not always, admit the land, or other objects, to be distin-
guished at the distance of half a mile, or more, in the day time.

The dense fogs, which occur in calms, or even in very light Imw Fu<j\.
winds, often extend only to small elevations above the sea ; so
that it sometimes happens, that when objects are hidden at the
distance of 50 yards from the deck, they can be plainly seen by a
person 50 or 60 feet up the rigging. In the months of October
and November the fogs and rain, that accompany eosterly gales,
are replaced by thick snow, which causes equal embarrassment t»»
the navigator.

8. The prevailing wind:, during the navigable season, are Pievintinn
either directly up or directly down the estuary, following tlie
course of the chains of hiijh lands on citlicr side of the great valley
of the St. Lawrence. Thus a S. E. wind in the gidf becomes
E. S. E. between Anticosti and the south coast, E. N.E. above
Point de Monts, and N.E. al)()ve Green Island. The westerly
winds do not appear to be so much guided in direction by the
high lands, excepting along the south coast, where we have
observed a W. S. W. wind at the Island of Bic become west,
W.N. W., and N.W., as wc ran down along the high and curved
south coast, until it became a N.N.W. wind at Cape Ganpt!.
These winds frcq\iently blow stning (or .'I or 4 dayH in succession ;
the westerly winds being almost always atcompanied with line,
dry, clear, and sunny weather ; the easterly windH as fre(|uciitly

ll'miln.

• I
ii
II

a* I

GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

Viumkr
Storm*.

Course of the the contrary, cold, wet, and foggy. In the spring, the easterly
Umd*. ^inds jnost prevail, frequently blowing for several weeks in

succession. As the summer advances, the westerly winds
become more frequent, and the S. W. wind may be said to be the
prevailing wind in summer in all parts of the River iind Gulf.
Light south winds take place occasionally ; but north winds are
not common in summer, although they sometimes occur. Steady
N.W. winds do not blow frequently before September, excepting
for a few hours at a time, when they generally succeed easterly
winds which have died away to a calm, forming the commence-
ment of strong winds, and usually veering to the S. W. The
N.W. wind is dry, with bright clear sky, flying clouds, and
showers. After the autumnal equinox, winds to the northward
of west become more common, and are then often strong steady
winds of considerable duration. In the months of October and
November the N. W. wind frequently blows with great violence
in heavy squalls, with passing showers of hail and snow, and
attended with sharp frost.

Thunder storms are not uncommon in July and August : they
seldom last above an hour or two; but the wind proceeding from
them is in general violent and sudden, particularly when near
the mountainous part of the coast; sail should, therefore, be
fully and quickly reduced on their approach.
GrmiufJ changt Strong winds seldom veer quickly from one quarter of the
compass to another directly or nearly contrary : in general they
die away by degrees to a calm, and are succeeded by a wind in
the opposite direction. I do not mean, however, by this obser-
vation, that they may not veer to the amount of several points.
N.W. winds seldom or never veer round by north and N.E.
to cast and S. E ; but they do frequently, by degrees, to the S. W.,
after becoming moderate. S. W. winds seldom veer by the
N. W. and north to the eastward, but sometimes by the south to
S. E. and cast. Easterly winds generally decrease to a calm, and
are succeeded by a wind from the opposite direction.

In the fine weather westerly winds of summer, a fresh toj)-
gallant breeze, will often decrease to a liglU breeze or calm at
night, and spring up again from the same quarter on the
following morning : under these circumstances only may a land
breeze oil' the north coast be looked for. I have observed the
Bumc utf the south cousl uUo, but not so decidedly or extending so

uftke H'imU,

GENERAL REMARKS.

, meter.

far off shore. I have occasionally carried the north land wind Courteoftfte
nearly over to the south coast just before daylight, but have never
observed the south land wind extend more than 5 or 6 miles off,
and that very rarely. Under the same circumstances, that is
with a fine weather westerly wind going down with the sun, a
S. W. land breeze will frequently be found blowing off the north
coast of Anticosti at night and during the early part of the
morning. If, however, the weather be not settled fair, and the
wind does not fall with the sun, it will usually prove worse than
useless to run a vessel close in shore at night in the hope of
a breeze off the land. Such is the usual course of the winds in
common seasons, in which a very heavy gale of wind will pr<jbably
not be experienced from May to October, although closc-rccfed
topsail breezes are usually common^enough. Occasionally, how-
ever, there are years, the character of which is decidedly stormy.
Gales of winds, of considerable strength, then follow each other
in quick succession and from opposite quarters.

9. The marine barometer, which is at all times of great use to Marine Buro'
the navigator, becomes particularly so in such seasons ; and the '
following remarks upon its general indications, when taken in
connexion with the usual course of the winds and weather in the
St. Lawrence, may, therefore, be useful. The barometer has a
range from 29 to 30*5 inches in the Gulf and River of St. Law-
rence during the navigable season, and its changes accompany
those of the winds and weather with a considerable degree of
constancy. The fluctuations of the barometric column are nuich
greater and more frequent there than in lower latitudes ; and
sudden alterations, which in other climates would bu alarming,
may occur there without being followed by any corrc8pon<ling
change cither in the wind or weather. But the navigator
should not be inattentive to those minor changes, as a constant
attention to the instrument can alone enable him to appreciate
those decisive indications of the mercury which seldom or
never prove deceptive. The following remarks will apply to
those well-marked changes which usually indicate the approach
of a gale of cunsiderabic strength, or of a shiil of wind aiitl
weather ; the correct anticipation of whicli is often of the utmoHt
consequence to the safely of a vcsbcI, as well as to the length uf
her voyage. When, al'ler u eoulinuance of we»tiiiy winds and
fincweulhcr, tlie buromctcr hwa libcu ncurlv to it» greatest heii'lii,

'•
t

i;i;:i — I

GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

ill

'II

JUarint Euro- Bay Bome tenths above 30 inches, or begins to fall a little, an
' . easterly wind may be soon expected. If to this notice given by

Eatterly the barometer be added a warm hazy atmosphere during the

Ivindt, ^j^y^ jjjj^ ^ heavy precipitation of dew at night, with very bright

twinkling stars, or a coloured aurora borealis, the approach of an
cast wind is almost certain. If land be in sight at such a time,
and appears much distorted by terrestrial refraction, or if vessels
in sight have the relative proportions of their hull and sails
changed by the mirage, or present double or treble images, such
appearances will render the before probable indications of the
barometer certain. At the commencement the easterly wind will
probably be light with fine clear weather, but this will not last
above a few hours if the barometer continues to fall ; on the
contrary, the wind will gradually increase, and as it does so the
sky will become overcast by degrees until it is completely clouded-
Rain and fug will follow, and continue during the continuance of
the easterly wind with little intermission, until they arc dissipated
by a fresh breeze from the contrary quarter.

If the fall of the barometer, during the continuance of the
easterly wind, be very slow, the gale will probably continue, and
not be very violent : if rapid, it will probably be of short duration,
and of greater strength : at any rate, when the mercury falls towards
29 inches, a change is certainly at hand, and the gale will in
general come from the N. W. The strength of this succeeding
gale will be in proportion to the fall of the barometer, and to
tlie strength of the easterly gale which preceded it. In such
a case, there is seldom many hours interval between the one gale
and the other. Tlie east wind generally dies away to calm, and
in a very few hours, or sometimes in much less time, the N. W.
gale springs up. A heavy cross sea remains for some time from
the previous gulc. The barometer sometimes begins to rise in
the interval of culm which precedes tlic N. W. gale, at others ut
its commencement : the fog uiul ruin cease, and the weather be-
comes quite clear, generally in a few hours, and sometimes almost
immediately. The strength of the westerly gale is usually greatest
soon after its commencement, and diminishes as the barometer
rises, veering gradually to the west and S.W. It is worthy of
remark, that llie circumstances just mentioned ure exactly tin-
reverse of those attending llic eiibtcily gale, 'llic latter iibually
cuuunences witli clear weather luul a hi^h buiunieler, light at first

and of N. fV.

i!'l

!|ll

GENERAL REMARKS.

! of the
me, and
luration,
towards
will in
ceeding
and to
In such
me gale
ilm, and
leN.W.
Imc from
rise in
ithcrs ut
her bc-
|s almost
greatest
Tometcr
orthy of
|ctly tin'
)t»iially
it at first

from the south or S.E., and gradually increasing as it vcen to Marine Baro*'-
the eastward, with a falling barometer. To return to the westerly *** /^ '

gale. — If, after it has veered to S.W. and become moderate, the ">v.'

barometer remains steady at a moderate height, fine weather may
be expected. If it remains at a considerable height, but still fluc-
tuating and unsteady, within certain limits, variable, but not
heavy winds, and variable weather may be expected. If, on the
contrary, it rises quickly to a great height, a repetition of the
easterly gale will not be improbable. We have experienced
seasons in which the barometer may be said to have been no
sooner blown up by one wind, than it has been blown down by
another, and this stormy alternation to have continued for several
months, whilst in others we have scarcely had a double-reefed
top sail breeze during the whole summer.

There is in fact so great a difference in the phenomena of the
weather in different seasons, that it becomes very difficult to
write anything respecting it, that shall not be liable to many ex-
ceptions. There are, however, some strongly marked cases of
connexion, between the indications of the barometer and changes Certmniif of in
of the winds and weather, which, within our experience of eight ""'«•'"'""•*•
or nine years, have been subject to few, I might almost say no,
exceptions. The first of these cases is that most common one,
which I have endeavoured to describe, of an easterly gale, with a
falling barometer, being always wet and foggy, and succeeded by
a strong wind from the opposite quarter with a rising barometer.
A second case, not of so frequent occurrence in common seasons,
excepting in spring or early in summer, is the easterly wind with
a rising barometer ; which, although it may not be at first for a
few hours, will almost always become fine and clear, and end
in fine weather. A third case may be considered certain : if the
barometer fall suddenly and greatly, at any time, a northerly, and
most probably a N. W. gale, of great strength, may be confidently
expected. It does not follow that it will be immediate, for it may
be preceded by a strong gale from S. W., for a few hours, during
which the barometer will seldom rise, and even, probably, con-
tinue to fall, but when the S. W. gale dies away, the northerly, or
N.W. will soon succeed, with a rising barometer.

In conclusion, I may remark that as, on the one hand, a con-
siderable fall of the barometer may occur, without being followed
by a strung wind ; so, on the other, a breeze of considerable

•I

I! i I

1 !

GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

Marine Baro- Strength may come on without any indication from the baro-
meter : but not anything that deserves the name of a gale. There
has never, within our experience, occurred a gale, so heavy as to
be of serious consequence to a good vessel, the approach of which
has not been indicated by the barometer. But it must be re-
membered that a high barometer, in this climate, and under the
circumstances which I have mentioned, is often indicative of an
easterly gale. It is remarkable that, in the gulf and estuary of
the St. Lawrence, a high barometer may be considered as the fore-
runner of wet and fo^y weather, which usually accompanies its
fall : whilst a low barometer rendere it equally probable that dry
weather will ensue, since it often accompanies its rise. I am fully
of opinion, that the marine barometer is of the greatest assistance
in the navigation of the Gulf and River St. Lawrence, and that
by attending constantly to its state and changes, with reference
to the winds and weather which preceded them, combined with
the indications afforded by the appearance of the sky, &c., those
changes of the wind and weather, which are about to take place,
may be anticipated with a degree of certainty sufficient, in most
cases, to enable us to avoid being caught on a lee-shore, or in an
unsafe anchorage, as well as to regulate our course in a voyage, in
anticipation of the coming change.

Ill

Kill

iiiii!

ill!

CURRENTS AND TIDES.

'/I

CHAPTER II.

•H

GENERAL REMARKS RE8FECTIN6 THE CURRENTS AND TIDAL
STREAMS IN THE ST. LAWRENCE.

10. Prevailing Currents. — 11. Currents at the Entrance of the Oulf. —
12. Current in through the Strait of Belle Isle. — 13. Its Course
after entering the Gulf. — 14? Main Current of the River. — 15. Its
Course and Rate. — 16. Round Point de Monts. — 17. Along the South
Coast. — 18. Remarks on the Tides of the North Coast, eastward of
Point de Monts.

10. The time of high water on the full and change days of the Prevailing
moon, and the rise in spring and neap tides at different places, ^'"■'*"'*'
will be found in the Table at the end of this book. Local pecu-
liarities will be mentioned in their proper places. At present I
shall chiefly confine myself to a general description of those great
currents, and tidal streams, which, although they may be subject
to occasional interruption and modification, seem, nevertheless, to
depend on constantly existing causes. These currents extend
over very large spaces, though varying according to locality and
other circumstances, and they are altogether so important a feature
in the navigation, that some general knowledge respecting them
is indispensable both to the safety and expedition of vessels in the
gidf and estuary of the St. Lawrence.

11. It is a generally received opinion that a current sets con- Currents at the
stantly to the south-eastward out of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, c!^^""'" "■^ ""
between Newfoundland and Cape Breton Islands, and also that
it is frequently deflected to the southward, towards the shores of
the island last named, by another current from the northward,
which is said to enter the Gulf by the Strait of Belle Isle.

I have myself observed that a current sets out, between Cape s. E. Current
Ray and St. Paul Island, during westerly winds and in calm ^''""^ '*' ^"^^
weather ; but it is checked by easterly winds, and I believe that it
may sometimes run in a contrary direction from the same cause.
Northerly winds, and perhaps also the above-named current from
the northward, may cause the stream to set to the southward
towards Cape Breton Island. But the truth is, that winds, buth
present and ut u distance, possess so powerful and irregular uu

1 1
ii

GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

i i

I i

ll! !

Currentt al the
enlroMe of the
Qu(f.

Current in
through Belle
Ule Strait.

Sometime* it
teti out.

Courte of above
Current up the
Gulf

action upon the set and strength of the currents and tides in this
entrance of the Gulf, that I can say nothing certain or definite
respecting them.

12. The reality of a current inwards through the Strait of
Belle Isle, is confirmed by the presence of icebergs, which it
transports into the gulf every summer, against the prevailing
S. W. winds ; frequently carrying them as far as Mecatina,
and sometimes even to the neighbourhood of the east point of
Anticosti. It is probable that this is a branch of the great cur-
rent from Davis Strait, which is known to run along the coast of
Labrador, and to transport numerous ice-bergs far to the south-
ward every year. This current will be mentioned again under the
head of the Strait of Belle Isle. Its strength is very much in-
creased by a prevalence of N. E. winds : at such times it runs
at the rate of 2 knots, through the strait, and for 30 to 40
miles further to the westward ; diminishing gradually in force as
it spreads out in the wider parts of the Gulf. Usually, however,
its rate is much less. At times, when S. W. winds prevail, it be-
comes very weak ; and it has even been reported to me, that a
current has been observed setting out of the Gulf, in a contrary
direction, to the N. £., for days together, but this was never ob-
served by us during either of the three seasons which we passed
there. There is, however, no doubt that this current is extremely
irregular, as might be expected at the narrow outlet of a great
inland sea, where winds, both within and without, must of neces-
sity possess great influence.

13. After entering the Gulf, it runs along the north, or La-
brador coast, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the outer islands ;
leaving a narrow space inshore, in which the streams of the tides,
when uninfluenced by winds, are tolerably regular. Passing out-
side of Mistanoque, the islands of Grand Mecatina, and the South
Maker's Ledge, it pursues a direction given to it by the trending
of the coast, till it is turned gradually to the southward, by the
weak current which is often found coming from the westward l)c-
tween Anticosti and the north coast, during westerly winds, and
which is set off to the southward from Natashquan Point. The
united streams continue their southern course at a rate diminish-
ing as they become moVe widely spread, and which seldom exceeds
half a knot : and, fiuiilly, joining tlic main downward current out
of the St. Lawrence, uf which an account will be given immediately,

CURRENTS AND TIDES.

1, or La-
ielands ;
the tides,
Ising out-
Ihe South
trending
|d, by the
irard he-
Inda, and
lit. The
liminish-
excecds
ircnt out
icdiatcly,

they all pursue a S. E. direction towards the main entrance of the Couru o/abnve

Gulf, between Cape Ray and the Island of St. Paul. It is this ^^^ "'"*•

current, from the northward, which is felt by vessels crossing from

off the Bird Rocks towards Anticosti : and which, together with .

neglecting to allow for the local attraction of the compass, has

been the principal cause of masters of vessels so often finding

themselves, unexpectedly, on the south coast. Many shipwrecks

have arisen from this cause near Cape Rosier, Gasp^, Mai

Bay, &c.

Both these currents, viz., that from the northward, and the Effect of the
main downward current of the St. Lawrence, are modified by the 'i,** "» '*•»
tides, but in a way directly contrary : for the northern current, in
through the Strait of Belle Isle, is accelerated by the flood, and
checked by the ebb ; whilst the other is accelerated by the ebb,
and checked by the flood tide. These modifying causes, namely,
the tides and winds, give rise to various combinations, and con-
sequent irregularities, in the direction and strength of these
streams, which it is extremely difficult at all times to estimate
and allow for correctly.

14. The current along the south coast appears to be superficial : Main Current
nt least we found it so in the lower parts of the estuary, where "-^ ' River-
obsei-vations upon the specific gravity of the water on the sur-
face, and taken up from different depths, proved to us that the
water of the St. Lawrence and its numerous tributary streams
was widely diffused over the Estuary.* It has also been observed

• I give the following out of a number of observations, made by Dr. Kelly on Temperature of
board the Gulnaie, not alone with reference to the nature of the current, but as '^ river.
also showing, that a very moderate degree of agitation of the water is sufficient
at times to mingle the warmer surface water with the colder substrata, which
always exist at a few fathoms of depth, and thus, by a reduction of tem-
perature uf the surface, produce, if the state of the air and dew point be
favourable, one of those low fogs, which can often be seen over from the
mast-head.

On the 8th July, IS31, we crossed from near Matan, on the south coast, to

St. Nicholas Harbour, on the north, with a light S- W. wind and fine weather,

and during the flood tide; when near the middle of the Estuary, we had 132

fathoms over a bottom of blue mud. The temperature of the air 04"

Fahrenheit,

Specific gravity
(examined itt 50" Fahr.)
Dew Point by Daniel's Hygrometer 58°

Water at the surface 60° 1-0180

,, 30 fathoms 35° 1-0260

,, 50 fathoms 34° 1'0265

A fresh breeze from the westward commeaced in the evening, and con-

■1

pi I

ill!
Ill

l"ii

il!

GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

Afain Current that the currciit is Strongest in spring, soon after the opening of
o/ihe Ktver. ^j^^ navigation, when the rivers are swelled by the recently dis-
solved snows of the winter. But, although, generally speaking,

Tetnperafureo/^^'^^^ "^ »ight, which tedured the temperature of the surface water to 39o
the river. by 9 a.m., on the morning of the 9th, when the temperature of the air was 62°

with a dense fog, the wind having died away to a light breeze, The fog
was seen over from the rigging 40 or 50 feet above the sea. At noon it was
calm, and the temperature of the surface had risen to 57°, and the fog in
consequence had nearly, but not entirely disappeared.

On the 9th July, 1831, at noon, we were becalmed 2 or 3 miles to the
southward of Point de Moots, and carried to the S. S. E., at the rate of
1^ knots, by the current. It was nearly high water by the shore, and,
consequently, about an hour and a half before the time when the stream of
flood ceases.

Specific gravity
(examined at SO" Fulir.)

The temperature of the air .
Dew Point

>»

62'

61°

57° . .

44°] By Six's

40° > Register

38°) Therm.

OO m • •

1-0172

water at the surface .
,, 4 a fathom.
, , 5 fathoms .
, > > 10 fathoms .

,, ,, 100 fathoms. 35° . . . 1-0275

During the night we had a very strong breeze, which, by the morning of
the 10th, had reduced the temperature of the surface water to 37<', and the
air to 44°.

On the 19th June 1832. Point de Monts, N.6l°.E. distant 7 miles.
Time of tide, half ebb. Wind light, from the westward. Rate of current, 2
knots to the S.S.E.

The temperature of the air .
Dew Point

»»
>i
it
)>

49°

Specific gravity
(Examined at 50° Va

44°

. . 1-0189

37i°

. . 1 -0-232

39°

. . 1-0246

33°

. . 1-0262

36°

. . 1-0275

ahr.)

water at the surface .
, , 10 fathoms
, , 20 fathoms
, , 47 fathoms
, , , , 104 fathoms

On this last occasion, the line and attached machine remained perpendi-
cular, from which we inferred that the whole budy of witter moved di)wn the
Estuary in the ebb tide. At the time of the preci-ding observations the line
remained {lerpendicular only as long as the machine was not lowered down
beyond 3 fathoms from the surface. At 5 fathoms the line drew strongly out
to the N. N. W., and still more strongly when the machine was lowered to
greater depths. Hence it appeared, that in the flood tide, only a thin
superstratum of comparatively light and warm water moves down, and that
the colder and heavier water beneath is eitht-r stationary, or moving up the
Estuary.

It also appears fvom the preceding, and many other similar observations,
that in fine weather, the comparatively warm and fresh water of the St. Law-
rence, and its numerous tributary streams, floats on the surface, but that
when the waters are agitated, by any cause, it becomes mingled with the
constantly cold water bunenth. The temperature of the surface, therefuie,
de^iendsless upon the warmth than upon (he strvugth of the winds.

CURRENTS AND TIDES.

Kning of
intly dis-
ipeaking,

ter to 39«
lit was 62"
, The fog
loon it was
the fog in

liles to the
;fce rate of
shore, and,
B stream of

Ic graTily
alSOOFu

Wir.)

1'0172

1«0275

i morning of

}7», and the

int 7 miles,
of current, 2

fie gravity .
Ut80»rtthr..

0189
0232
0246
0262
•0275
d perpendi-
d di)wn the
una the line
wered down
itrongly out
lowered to
nly a thin
1, and that
iiug up the

bservations,
lie St. Law-
to, but that
led wilh the
k, thetefoiei
Is.

there seems no doubt that this current is the tribute of the St. Main Current
Lawrence on its way to the ocean ; yet, iu tho upper part of the "-' ' '"""■
estuary it is not alone, and at all times, caused by the discharge
of the St. Lawrence, but ili ])ends also upon peculiarities in the
set of the tides. Thus, when our observations had confirmed the
truth of the report, that the current always ran down on the south
side of the Estuary from a few miles below Red Island towards
the Island of Bic, we could not at first account for the fact ; for it
appeared impossible that this could be the comparatively fresh
water of the St. Lawrence flowing on the surface towards the sea,
when we knew that the whole body of water a few miles above,
from shore to shore, on either side of Hare Island, and also in the
Saguenay River, was running up during the flood tide. Atten-
,} tion, and numerous observations, together with an examination of

the temperature and specific gravity of the water, informed us
that this was an eddy flood, which is thus explained.

The flood tide ascends in a wide channel more than 100 The EMyFlood
fathoms deep : when it arrives at the comparatively narrow pass downward
formed by Green Island, Red Islet Reef, and the extensive shoals current.
oflF the entrance of the Saguenay River, it is obstructed thereby,
as well as by the shoalness of the channel to the southward of
Hare Island. There is not room for so great a volume of water
to pass, and part of it is in consequence turned back, and forms
an eddy flood, setting from below Red Islet Reef, towards the
Razade Islets, as shown by the arrows in the chart. During the
ebb tide, the stream of the Saguenay sets over to the southward
in the same direction, hence the current on that side is always
down.*

* Since the eddy flood above mentioned exercises a considerable influence Low Fogg pro-
over the climate near the shore off which it runs (its course being from the duced by this
Red Islet Reef passing near the Ra«ade Islets to the Island of Bic) ; and «^'^<jfloo>i'
also, occasions those dense and low fogs, and peculiar forms of mirage,
or terrestiial refraction, which depend upon a temperature of the surface
water lower than that of the air, or its dew point ; it may not be altogether
devoid of interest to give a few additional remarks concerning it.

Of the fact of iis being really the stream of flood, although running down Proofs of its
the Estuary, we had ample opportunity of convincing ourselves ; especially Aei«// the eddy
during the nine or ten days we were employed in sumiding within .^'""^*
the limits above mentioned ; and during wbicli we made itinny observations
with the object of ascertaining the set, stren;;th, and course of this peculiar
stream. I select the remarks made on the 10th July, 1831, as being alone
nearly sufficient to establish the fact of this part of the general down-
ward s( ream, or current, being the flood tide. The Gidnare was then at anchor,
in 10 fathoms, about 1 mile N.U. of the eastern liaziule Islet. In the

Jl;
I

f j . .»

GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

I!
f

I iiii

p 11 '

ii:

Mm'

!!li!

EtMij FloatI, There is no upward stream of the tide (excepting so close in-
shore as to be useless to ships) all along the south coast from

last quarter ebb the stieatn ceased, being prevented from coining to us by
the shoals, which are dry at low water, between Green and Basque Islands,
and the main, but it still continued to run strongly down a short distance
outside of our anchorage.

There was no stream at the vexsel until it was past a quarter flood by the
shore, when the downward stream commenced aud continued during the
remainder of the flood at a greater rale than during the preceding or follow*
ing ebbs. Soon after hi^h water by the shore the downward stream again
ceased for a short time, after which the flrst of the ebb came oiF the shoals,
and then turned down the estuary as before. Now it appears that the eddy
flood did not reach us till the end of tlie first quarter flood by the shore,
because time was necessary for the tide to ascend the deep and unobstructed
channel to the northward, and to rise and accumulate at the obstructed part
of the channel above uh, before it was compelled in part to retrograde, and
descend to us through a distance of 16 or 17 miles. It ceased agnin soon
after high water, because the slruain of flood had ceased above, there being
only a few minutes' diflerence in the times of high water at the two places,

A. ship becalmed below the Red Islet Reel was brought down to us by the
eddy flood, and drifted past about half a mile outside of us. And, on another
occasion, during the flood tide, wheu we sailed from near Red Islet to off
Bicquette, passing within 2 or 3 miles of the Razades, we were carried a-head
of our reckoning at the average rate of '2| knots per hour. W hen beating;
against a westerly wind, on many occasions, between the Island of Bic and
the Razades, we never could gain groimd to windward, excepting during the
lost quarter of the ebb and the first of the flood tide.

The specific gravity of the water of this stream during flood tide vas found
to be nearly as great as the surface water of the Gulf, and higher than that of
the Kstuary lower down ; and it was also, like the latter, when taken from con-
siderable depths, or when violently agitated by strong winds, extremely cold.
Its temperature was usually between 38° and 45°, and was never ibund
higher than 49'^, Fahrenheit. We have seen it as b.w us 39° in every month
from June to September inclusive, and that at times and imdur circumstances
when the surface water of the Kstuary in other parts was usually about 60°,
and when the fresh water of the St. Lawrence above was at an equally high
temperature, ^he great specific gravity and low temperature of this stream
are incumpatililo with the popular supposition of its being, iu tliis part, thu
lighter and fresher water ui the St, Lawrence flowing on the surface toward*
the sea.

To the buiiie cause which gives rise to the retrograde course of this stream
of flood must also be attributed its superior specific gravity and low
temperature. For as the great body of the flood tide, moving in the deep
North t'hannel, meets with resiatanre at tlus shoals of the Saguenay and
Red Islet, the cold water of the ICstuary, which everywhere exists at a very
moderate depth, is forced to the surface, and thus, together with the irre-
gular bottom, gives rise to the violent whirls aud rippKs which abound in
that vicinity. The thin superstratum of warmer water is thus mingled with,
and lost, in the superior quantity of colder water from bcueath, aud a great
reduction of temperature eHected,
Caioe nf A«M'- May not the low temperature often found over shoal* in the sea be attri-
I'uumUand I ojt. butcd to u similar cuuie, iinil c»pucially thu lower temperature uf the water

water; i
in its rc(
The strci
minishes
of about ;
Blrcngth I

•>n the Bati
for the gn
Labrador i
<l>e southwi
forced to Ih
the prvvalci

CURRENTS AND TIDES.

close in-
ttst from

g to u« by
le Islands,
t distance

lood by the
during the
; or foUow-
eam a^am
the shoals,
at the eddy
^the shore,
nobstructed
ttucted part
ograde, and
ag>iin soon
there bting
ro places,
to us by the
1, on another
(I Islet to off
arried a-htail
/hen beating
i of Bic and
g during the

(le >. as found
than that of
[on from con-
tremely cold,
nevur found
every month
ircunistunces
ly about 60°,
ijually high
th\» strenin
liis \iiirt, the
liicu toward*

t' this struiim
ty and low
in the dei-p
agiiuuay and
Ists at li vi-ry
ifiih the irie-
(h abound in
linglcd with,
and a grrut

Hua be ttttri-
1 of the water

Cape GasjH^ to a few miles below Red Islet, in consequence of
the union of this eddy flood witli the main current of the river ;
and they have, therefore, so mucli iiiflucuce on the navigation
that I shall endeavour to trace their course more iiarticularly.

15. Commencing from a short distance below the Red hlet Course and
Kcer, the current is there very strong — about 4 knots. It de- jiiain Current,
creases in velocity as it proceeds to the south-eastward, slanting
over towards the Razade Islets; ofl' which its rate is from 2 to 3
knots. It runs strongly along the northern edge of the Bank of
Soundings off the south coust, upon which, especially in spring
tides, a weak stream of flood will be found flowing in the opposite
direction, and the boundary of the two streams is usually marked
by a strong ripple. From Fatlier Point to Cape Chatte, the rate
of the downward current varies from a half to 2 knots, according
to the tide, direction of the winds, and season of the year.

During the ebb tide the stream runs down on both Buhs, during the Ebb,
stronger on the south than on the north coast, and weakest in the
middle of the Estuary.- It is deflected, or turned off to the south-
ward, by the Points Mille-Vaches, Bersimis, Manicouagon, and
Point de Monts, ftud by the ebbing streams of the large rivers be-
tween them : a circumstance which shoidd be carefully attended
to by vessels coming up with a northerly wind ; as they will in-
fallibly be set over to the southward upon a lee-shore, if they do
not make the necessary allowance by keeping their wind well over
to the northward.

During the flood tide this stream still continues to run down during the
outside the Bank of Soundings off the south coast, although with "^ '
diminished velocity, and is felt about half way over towards the
north shore. In the middle of the Estuary there is usually slack
water ; whilst along the north coast the stream of flood is regidar
in its recurrence, increasing in force as we ".sccnd the Estuary.
The strength of the stream of flood is greatest in-shorc, and di-
minishes as we jiroceed over to the southward, till at the distnnec
of about 3 leagues it l)ec(mies insensible. The^e differences in the
strength and direction uf the streams produce strong ripples in t»(„iu,Tf

on the Bank of Newfouiidliiiid, as compared with the neiijhliourinj; sen P
for the great niirint, wliuli liriiitfs thu irehtTgs down nloiii: tlii' fonst of
Labrador from this norihward. must nuit with obhtnutidu in itN i-oiiiitf to
the southward from Ihi'sc H.nikii. unit the cold wntcr. in fi usoqui iicc, be
forcud 1o the surfiire ; and, if tills lie so, we may probably find a ri'U»ui> lor
the prevaleuce uf fogs upuu thutu liankx.

iyii!'

GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

round Point (le
Alonti,

:'iM:

Main Current, various parts of the Estuary, but their position varies with the
different times of tide, and perhnps from other causes, so that they
cannot safely be trusted for any guidance to the seaman.

16. Round Point de Monts there is little or no stream of flood,
ex"';pting very close in-shore : the downward current is constant,
or nearly so off that point ; and it requires a fast-sailing vessel to
beat round it against a westerly wind. Point de Monts turns this
current over to the S. S. E., at a rate varying from 1 to 2 knots ;
80 that a vessel, having a west wind, and standing over to the
southward on the starboard tack, will be carried towards the south
coast at a rapid rate, having the current on her weather quarter;
during her board back to the northward, she will be retarded,
the current being then directly opposed to her course. When
sailing at the rate of 4 knots, it will usually require only about
half the time to go from near Point de Monts over to the south
coast, that it will take to return from the latter to the former.
This is a most important circumstance, which it is necessary to
carefully guard against, when beating up the Estuary in this part
during dark nights, and, especially, in foggy weather.
hf/ow Point (le 17. Bclow Point de Monts the current is no longer felt near
to "I'/wS '^mir *^^'^ north coast, nor, indeed, anywhere to the northward of a line
joining Point de Monts and Anticosti. It is confined to the
neighbourhood of the south coast, which it follows in its curve to
the southward, running strongly past Cape Gasp^, Flat Island,
and Bonaventure Island ; whence curving gradually to the south
and S. E., it continues its course towards the entrance of the
Gulf, with a rate very much lessened in conseipience of the great
space over which it is now spread. The usual breadth of this
stream from Magdalen River to Cape Gaspe is 3 or 4 leagues ;
but this, I believe, is not uniform. When S.W. winds prevail,
it appears that this current, or a branch of it, is driven over from
the vicinity of Magdalen River towards Anticosti ; part of the
stream running round the west point of that island, sets across
neinly towards hiirge Island, (one of the Mingans,) whence
turning gradually down outside the Mingan and Esquimaux
Islands, and along tlic nortli coast, it sweeps round the curve
to the westward of NatasJKiuun Point, and is turned off to
the P(i\itl)wnrd, as lias been nlnudy inentioncd, (art. l.'i). The
other |iiMt sweeps niund the larije curve, or l)ay, lielween the
wi>t mid S. \V. |iiiinl»' of Aiitieo^li, and is luiueduH'to the south-

CURRENTS AND TIDES.

1 of flood,
constant,
r vessel to
turns this
( 2 knots ;
tet to the
1 the south
r quarter;
I retarded,
ic. "When
only ahout
> the south
the former,
lecessary to
in this part

ir felt near
rd of a line
ned to the
Its curve to
at Island,
o the south
nee of the
)f the great
idth of this
4 leagues ;
ids prevail,
1 over from
part of the

BCtS IVCVOSS

i,) whence

Ks'piimiuix

the curve

ncd ofV to

iwfcu the
ihe utiulh-

ward by the latter point, frequently causing a great ripple off it, Main Current,
which has been mistaken for breakers on a much more extensive
reef than exists there.

I have noted the rate of this current, off different parts oi iusirfngthveri/
the south coast between Capes Chatte and Gasp^, in the months
of June, July, August, and September, and in different years,
and scarcely ever found it the same. It varied between 1 and
2 knots in westerly winds. It was weaker, often nearly insensible,
iu easterly winds ; and in one instance, off Mont Louis River
in a calm which was followed by a strong breeze from the east-
ward, it could not be perceived.

18. Vessels beating up the St. Lawrence against westerly Tutes regular
winds usually experience little diflSculty in making good "^^^y ""f j>,in"je
to windward, after having weathered the west point of Anticosti Monti,
and arrived on the north coast; because there is seldom any
current on that side, and the tides, although weak, arc tolerably
regular. It is in general very easy to beat from the Seven
Islands to Point de Monts; for there the strqpm of flood is
stronger than the ebb ; the latter, as well as the current, being
turned off to the southward by Point de Monts. There seems, at
times, also to be an eddy current there, sweeping round the great
bay or curve between the above-named points. It sets off from
about Egg Islet to the S. S. W. ; and is the probable cause why
vessels, which shape a direct course for Point de Monts with a
leading N.W . wiiul off tl»e land at night, so often find themselves
obliged to haul up for, or unabli- lo fetch, the light.

Any further remarks respecting the tides and currents will be
of a more local nature, and will, therefore, be best given where the
particular places or parts of the coast are described. The ol)jcet
here was to give a condensed view of the i)rincipul streams wliich
mainly affect a vessel in her voyage either up or down tlirough
the Gulf and Estuary; and in the following Chapter will be found
their usual effects, and the allowances which should be t'ou-
8e(|ucntly made.

1 1

't
(I

•!

({ULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

CHAPTEIl HI.

r-ENERAI, niRECTIONS FOR NAVIGATING ^ilE GULF AND RIVER
OK ST. LAWRENCE.

himlfnll.

h/iinil nf
Si. riiiit.

19. Vessels, enterinfT the Gulf should endeavour to malce the Island of
St. Paul. — 20. St. Paul Island to the Bird Rocks and Magdalen
Islands. — 21. Bird Rocks to the Island of Anticusti. — 22. The Passage
northward of Anticosti. — 23. The Passage southward of Anticosti. —
2^. Anticosti to Point de Monts, with fair and with beating Winds,^
• 25. Point dc Monts to Bicquette Island, with easterly Winds and thick
weather. An instance of the fatal consequences of neglecting the
Deviation of the Compass. Pilots. — 26. Point de Monts to Bicquette
with southerly and with northerly Winds. Instances of the effects of the
Currents and Tides. — 27. Bicquette to Green Island Lighthouse. —
2S. Beating up the Estuary with westerly Winds.— 29. Returning
down the EiituHry and Gulf.

19. Vessels bound to Canada, or to any of the ports in the
Gulf of St. Ijawrcnce, should endeavour to make the Island of
St. Paul, which, being of considerable elevation and bold all
round, may, with care and a good look out, be made at night, or
even in fogs, unless the former be very dark or the latter very
thick.

On this island a lighthouse is about to be erected which
will be of the utmost assistance to mariners; it lies in the
miiin entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, between Cape Ray,
at the S. W. extremity of Newfoundland, and Cape North, near
the northern extremity of Cape Breton Island. From the south
|)()iiit (if the Island of St. Paul, Cape North bears W.S. W.JW.
by compass,* distant 13 miles; and from the north point of
the same island, Cape Hay bears E. by N., distant 41^ miles.
In approaching St. I'aul from the S. E. with northerly winds,
I ho current, which I have before mentioned as ut times coming
from the northward, and sotting towards the shore of Cape
Itrcton, should be guarded against. The south coast of Ncw>

''' In (hi'NU Diri'ctiuni all bearingi ure magnetic, or given by comimss,
uiili'NN when the contrary is fxpres-ud. The lAtitudes and longitudes of the
|<riuci|ial (luiiits, variation, ^c, will bu iountl iu u table at tbo tJud uf thu book.

DIRECTIONS ACROSS THE GULF.

ID RIVER

! Island of
. Ma|;dalen
ho Passage
\ntico8ti. —
g WindH. —
Is and thick
[lecting the
to Bicquette
•ffeetsofthe
ghthouse. —
I. Retaining

irts in the
J Island of
d bold all
it night, or
atter very

ted which

lies in the

I Cape Ray,

forth, near

the south

Is.w.iw.

point of

,lj miles.

fly winds,

^08 coming

of Cape

of Ncw-

ny comiNisSi
Itiidus uf thu
lofthobouk.

foundland, eastward of Cape Ray, is broken, rocky, and dan- ^voiJ s. cmii
gerous. The tides and currents, being influenced by the winds, /„„,/.
are irregular ; whilst all southerly and easterly winds, and often
also south-westerly winds, bring a thick fog, which is most dense
near the lee-shore. On these accounts, tliis coast should not be
approached, excepting with a decided northerly wind and clear
weather. (For description of St. Paul, see art. 30.)

20. After having made St. Paul, vessels bound to Canada Frovi si. Pmii
should endeavour, if the weather be clear, to make the Bird '[i,^l^^ "
Rocks, the largest or south-eastermost of which bears from the
north point of St. Paul N. N.W. J W., 55 miles.

There is a deep channel between St. Paul and the bank on nirl ami Mnij-
which the .Magdalens, Bryon Island, and the Bird Rocks arc ^^^^ * '"" *
situated. This channel is 12 miles wide, and no soundings have
been found in it with 60 fathoms of line. Twelve miles N. W.
from St. Paul, on the S. E. extremity of the bank above mentioned,
there are 50 fathoms of water over a bottom of fine sand ; and
13j^ miles from the island, on the same line of t)earing, there
are 35 fathoms, the bottom being the same, with the occusional
addition of gravel. From tliis point the water shoals gradually
towards the Magdalens, distant 42 miles. Following the eastern
edge of the bunk to the northward, inclining gradually to the
N.W., regular soundings extend from 28 to 35 fathoms over
sand, stones, and broken shells; the latter depth being where
the Great Bird Rock bears W. N. W. ; and when the same rock
bears W.S.W.^W., distant 13^ miles, there will be 50 fathoms
over fine sand on the edge of the bank, oiV which there is no
bottom with 70 fathoms of line. At the distance of 10 miles
from the Rock, and on the same line of beiuing, there iire 43
fathoms; and at 6 miles 33 fathoms, shoaling gradually in to
24 fathoms, within a mile of the Rocks. This bank is an ex-
cellent g\iide uj) to the Bird Rocks at nijiht, or in thick weiitlier,
whicii almost always uccomimnies easterly and southerly winds :
but under such circunislances it will be sufer to run along the
northern edge of the bank, inking care not to come into less
than 40 fathoms, than to attempt to imike the Bird Rocks.
When well past them by the reckoning, a course can be shaped
up the Gulf.

In northerly winds the weather is tisually clear; and, if ihr .S7. I'.mi i., the
ship be fur enough to windward, it will bi' iulvisuble (o A\x\\\ to 1^"''''"^'"

H
J)

GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

MagiMrn
hlunda.

'mm

iililv

Bird Itoi'kt to

Soiiniliiir/x fie-
tuieeit thtiii.

lirv'iMnif
Jm,IiI oil's If:
I'liinI of .in'i'
coxti.

lUnlh Point
LijIU,

the westward and endeavour to make Entry Island, taking care
to avoid Doyle Reef and the Sandy Spit oiF the east end of the
Magdalens, by not approaching the islands in that part nearer
than 20 fathoms. Under the led of these islands a smooth sea
will be found, sufficient guidance by the soundings, and good
shelter and excellent anchorage in Pleasant Bay. (See Chap. IV.
for a description of these islands.)

Another advantage of following this course arises from the
circumstance that the N.W. winds very generally veer to the
S. W., 80 that, if a vessel has passed to leeward of the Magdalens
with the northerly or N.W. winds on the starboard tack*, the
succeeding S. W. wind will enable her to stand on the opposite
tack towards Cape Gaspe.

From the north point of the Island of St. Paul to the east point
of the Magdalens the course is N. W.^ W., distance 56 miles;
and to Entry Island, N. VV. by W. | W., 63 miles.

2L From the north Bird Rock the lighthouse on the S. W.
point of tlie Island of Anticosti bears N. 46° 13' W. true, or
N.N. W. by compass, 134 miles ; and the east point of Anticosti
N. 14° 46' W. true, or N. % E. by compass, 80 miles.

After leaving the Bunk of Soundings, northward of the Bird
Rocks, the water is very deep all the way until near the shores of
Anticosti, there being no bottom with 80 fathoms of line, nor
probably at much greater depths. In making this part of the
voyage up the Gulf, the frequent current from the northward,
mentioned (art. 13) as having been one of the causes of ship-
wrecks in the neighbourhood of Capes Rozier and Gaspt?, Mai
Bay, &c., should be considered. Accidents, however, from this
cause can never occur if the lead be used ; for, upon consulting
tlic chart, it will be seen that there are soundings to be obtained
nearly all the way upon, and to the southward of, a line joining
the Bird Rocks and Cupe Gaspe, whilst a few miles to the north-
ward of that line tliere is no bottom with 80 fathoms of linn.

With a fair wind the oliject should be to make the lighthouse
or revolving light upon tlic S. W. point of Anticosti ; and, with
westerly winds, any ]mrt of the const of thnt island which can be
attained. When the lighthouse on IIei.i'i Point shall be lighted
it will be ciisy to make the cast end of tlie islaiul at night, if the
weather be clear ; and, if the weather lie tliick, the Bank of
Soundings, whicii extends oil' it '28 miles to the south-enstwanl,

• »

DIRECTIONS ACROSS THE GULP.

aking care
!nd of the
art nearer
mooth sea
and good
: Chap. IV.

I from the
?eer to the
Magdalens
1 tack*, the
he opposite

e east point
\ 56 miles;

the S.W.
W. true, or
of Anticosti

of the Bird

he shores of
|of line, nor
[l)art of the
northward,
les of ship-
asp^, Mai
|r, from this
II consulting
Ibe obtained
line joining
the north-
|f line,
lighthouse
; and, with
Ihich can be
1 be lighted
ight, if the
lie Bank of
h-enstwanl.

may seem to determine the vessel's position by the lead. At the

distance from the island above named there are 62 fathoms of '

water, shoaling gradually in towards the island, as will be seen

by the chart.

22. In the event of a vessel being near the eastern extremity of Passaije North
Anticosti, and having succeeded in making the east point, or the "■'
light on Heath Point, with a S. W. wind, it will often be pre-
ferable to proceed to the northward of the island, where there is
a good channel, rather than to tack and stand back to the south-
ward and eastward. Under the lee of Anticosti she will, in this
casey^iave a smooth sea, and often also clear weather, whilst there
is a heavy swell and frequently a thick fog to windward of it.
She will, moreover, avoid the current out of the St. Lawrence,
which runs constantly with westerly winds between the south
coast and Anticosti ; and thus be able, at all times, to make way
to the westward in moderate weather. At night, or in foggy
weather, the Bank of Soundings off the north coast, and further
westward the banks off the Mingan Islands, will safely guide
her, even although the land should not be visible.

All the way from Natashquan Poiut to the River St. John, Banks between
westward of the Jvlincan Islands, there are banks of sand, erravcl, ^"'"s''^""'*

° ' o ' „,fii i^t. John

broken shells, and bits of coral extending off the coast many river.

miles. Off the Mingan Islands these bunks extend halfway

across to Anticosti. The depth of water upon them is very

various : to the eastward, or below the Mingan Islands, it is Irrcf/ufar

in general between 30 and 50 fathoms ; but in some few places '' "'

it exceeds the latter depth, whilst in others there is as little as 19

fathoms. Abreast the islands there is still less water occasionally ;

but to the southward of tlicse banks, and between them and

Anticosti, there is a very deep channel ; in which, from opposite

the east point to opposite the west cliff, the soundings exceed

100 fathoms. Proceeding westward, the soundings gradually

decrease to CO fathoms off tlic north point, where they become

irregular for a few miles, varying from 50 to 70 fathoms, with

occasional rocky bottom; and then deepen again, with mud

bottom, further to the westward. In all this deep water channel, Ri,iemudin

with the single exception which has been stated, the bottom is, "!' ''''''''
r , ihunne/.

for Jie most part, of blue nuul. Such a remarkable difference in

the nature of the buttoni, as well as in tlic depth of water, renders

it comparatively easy to take a ship thvoutili this channel al niglit

1 1

GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

ill "'I

,!l!:v!

I:.

IfeefiofSt.
Genevieve and
Huntmy h-
iandi.

Deceitful holet
in the Hanks.

Paunge North or in foggy Weather. But in order to effect this with safety the
uj I «CM I. ygggg] gjiould be furnished with Massey's patent sounding
machine and lead, or other similar instrument, which must be
freely used as she runs along the southern edge of the banks of
sand, gravel, and shells, sheering occasionally to the southward
into the deep water and muddy bottom, to make sure of not
getting too far to the northward.

The dangers of this channel may be said to commence with
the reefs off St. Genevieve and Hunting Islands ; on approaching
which from the eastward, the chart should be carefully consulted,
for they are very dangerous, and there are some deep water
soundings, between 50 and 10 fathoms inside the outer banks,
which might lead to a mistake if care were not taken to keep on
the southern edge of the outer banks.

These deep water soundings commence off the high peninsula
Watcheeshoo, and extend, irregularly, being deep holes in the
banks, to within a very short distance of Bowen Rocks off St. Ge-
nevieve Island. But the ship, if properly conducted, will be at
least 3 leagues to the southward of the rocks off St. Genevieve ;
and as there are soundings, in a moderate depth of water, 5 or 6
CuUint Shoal, miles from Collins Shoal, the outer danger off Hunting Island,
and the channel, excluding the reefs, is there 23 miles wide, there
seems no difficulty in this part which may not with common
prudence be avoided. Proceeding westward, the channel con-
tracts gradually to the narrowest part, which is between the reefs
off the north point of Anticosti and off Mingan Island, where
it is 13j miles wide. To pass this safely, at night or in foggy
weather, it is necessary that the lead should be kept constantly
going as the vessel runs along the southern edge of the bank off
the Mingan Islands, and she should not be allowed to go to the
northward into less than 30 fathoms of water.

If the vessel should be met by a westerly wind, down the
channel, it will be attended with clear weather, and the white
cliffs of Anticosti, which extend from the east point westward to
opposite St. Genevieve, will easily be seen. A vessel may stand
in without fear to within a mile or two of this part of the coast,
which, with the cxcciition of the ret fs oil Fox Bay, is bold and free
from danger. Further westward the coast is low and shelving,
and reefs extend further oft', lu the board to the northward at
night, the .ioundiiiL's on t!u bank will show when to tack.

Fox Rccfi,

1,,,,,,^.

DIRECTIONS ACROSS THE GULF.

safety the
sounding
I must be
e banks of
southward
ire of not

lence with
pproaching
r consulted,
ieep water
iter banks,
to keep on

h peninsula
oles in the
s oiF St. Ge-
will be at
Genevieve ;
rater, 5 or 6
ting Island,
wide, there
,th common
annel con-
m the reefs
iland, where
|or in foggy
constantly
lie bank off
go to the

down the
ll the white
Ivestwnrd to
may stand
the coast,
Lold iuul free
lid shelving',
lorthward at
luck.

It has been remarked already (art. 17) that,m westerly wmds, Ptutage North

,. , , , . . ofAntiewtu

there is a weak current down this channel, but it is not constant,

and its rate seldom exceeds half a knot. Sometimes it is imper- Current down

ceptible during the flood tide, and runs even the other way on the

approach of easterly winds. Vessels, however, should be aware

that on arriving off the north point of Anticosti with a west or S.W.

wind, this current will almost always be found setting over to the

N. E., being turned off into that direction by the west end of the '

island. Confined within a comparatively narrow channel, it is

here stronger than elsewhere, running, in the ebb tide, about a

knot, and in the flood tide, half a knot in the offing.*

23. Vessels meeting with a westerly wind in the south channel Postage South
should stand over towards the Island of Anticosti, and make "■' '''"^'"'••
boards, off and on, of 3 or 4 leagues, to avoid the current out of
the St. Lawrence. In beating between Cormorant Point and
South Point, off which there is a dangerous reef, keep the light-
house on Heath Point open of Cormorant Point. In standing
in shore at night to the eastward of the S. W. point, do not bring
the revolving light to bear to the westward of N. N. W., or when
standing into the westward of it, to the southward of S. S. E. J E.
Further particulars respecting the navigation along the shores of
Anticosti will be found in the next Chapter.

In moderate weather a vessel will generally gain ground to Danger of a
windward all along the south coast of the island, but care should p^^„'^.' '*
be taken to avoid being becalmed, near the shore, between the
S. W. and west points, where both the swell and current set in
shore, and where the bottom being of clean flat limestone, an
anchor will not hold. It is by no means uncommon off this part
of the coast, for the fine weather N. N. W. breeze of summer to
die away suddenly to a calm, so that a vessel beating here, should
stand off shore on the first appearance of a decrease of wind.
In the month of August of two following years, I was nearly
driven on sliore, under St. Mary Clifls, by a sudden calm.
The sea was at first perfectly smooth, but a lieavy swell from the
south-westward soon commenced, and continued for 3 or 4 hours
before the breeze which caused it made its appearance.

*Romiirks on the tidi's in-shorc,an(l en the »lan);ers in this channel, will ho
fo>in<l ill the following Chajiter iiuilei' thu hi'.ul of Anticosti, and also in
Chapter VII., which will ileaciibo the north coast of tliu Gulf lioin Nu-
tu!ih(|uiui to Miii^'au Ulund.

GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

Pauage South
of Anticosti,

III '

Anticotti to
Point de Monlt.

Sotmdini/s be-
tween Seven
Islands and
Aniicosti.

Course to Point
de Monts,

Making the
Light at Point
lie Monts,

IM::

From the S. W. point of Anticosti to Cape Henry (Ellis Bay)
the bearing is N. 52° i W. true, or N. N. W. J W. by compass,
and the distance 39 miles j and 8 miles further, nearly in the
same direction, brings us to the wes* point of the island.

Having made South-west Point, and being 4 or 5 miles
oif it, with a fair wind, a course should be steered along the
coast, so as to pass 8 or 10 miles to the southward and west-
ward of Cape Henry and West Point. N. W. JN. will be a
safe course at night or in thick weather, when the lead should be
hove every half hour. With this precaution there is no danger of
being set too near the coast, since there are soundings in less
than 40 fathoms, at a distance varying from 5 to 3 miles off shore
all the way from the S. W. point to the west end of the island.

24. From the west point of Anticosti, the south extremity of
Point de Monts bears S. 73° \ W. true, or W. h N. by compass,
distant 116 miles.

An inspection of the chart will show that there are soundings
in various depths, between 50 and 100 fathoms, from the western
end of Anticosti to nearly opposite the Seven Islands, whilst to
the southward there is no bottom at a much greater depth. These
may be of use in discovering the situation of a vessel when light
winds and fogs prevail for .;evc-ral days in succession, and the
land in consequence has not been seen.

When the vessel has arrived oft' the west point of Anticosti,
with a fair wind still continuing, a course should be steered well
to the northward, especially with northerly winds, say for about
Egg Island. She will thus avoid the strength of the 'current, and
the possibility of being set over too near the south shore by its
acting on her starboard-bow. When she has run about half way
across she should haul more to the southward, so ns to insure
clearing Point de Monts.

If the weather be clear, there will be no difficulty in making
the lighthouse on Point de Monts,* and the fixed light at night
can be seen, under favourable circumstances, 7 or 8 leagues

* Point de Monts received its name from the Sieur de Monts, a celebrated
French commander, who was there in the be^rinning of the 17th century.
Point des Munts is an inaccuracy, and Bald Mountain Point is absurd, as
there is no mountain near the Point.

Cape Chat should be Cape de Chatte, so called from the commander \irh»
preceded the Sieur du Monts ; and the Cape Misfio of the old charts should
be Cape Michaux.

:-,S

has

fathon

northv

calcuh

to sha

rem air

In 1

is not

» I think

coast t(

Poin

a mile

ledge of

eastwar

lighthoi

12 feet

house, 1

low wat

Thel

lighthou

attem])t(

extreme

the comj

as to Ic

be from

the sautl

DIRECTIONS ACROSS THE GULF.

[Ellis Bay)
y compass,
larly in the
d.

)r 5 miles
1 along the
and west-
. will be a
id should be
10 danger of
ings in less
les off shore
le island,
extremity of
by compass,

:e soundings
1 the western
is, whilst to
(Cpth. These
when light
on, and the

of Anticosti,
steered well

ay for about

'current, and
shore by its

lOut half way
fts to insure

y in making
ght at night
)r 8 leagues

s, a celebrated
17th century,
is absurd, as

itnmaiider wbn
1 charts bIiouUI

from the fore-yard of a ship. But if the weather be thick, as it Making Point
commonly is with a fair wind for running up, great caution
is necessary. In such circumstances, after having run within
about 15 miles of Point de Monts by the reckoning, sail should be
reduced, so as to have the vessel under complete command, and
she should be rounded to, and a good deep cast with Massey's
patent lead obtained, so as to insure that she is not to the north-
eastward of the Point, and this should be repeated every half hour,
until the light be seen, or it is certain that it is past.

If the vessel be to the north-eastward of Trinity Bay, soundings
will be obtained in less than 60 fathoms, from 4 to 6 miles off
shore. Directly off Trinity Bay, there is the same depth 3 miles
off shore ; whilst, at the same distance off Point de Monts, there
is no bottom at 100 fathoms. If the distance to Point de Monts
has been run by the reckoning without finding bottom at 70
fathoms, it will be almost certain that the vessel is not to the
northward ; but still, as the effects of currents cannot be exactly
calculated, and reckonings are liable to error, it will be prudent
to shape a course well to the southward of the Point, till there
remains no doubt of its having been passed.

In making the light on Point de Monts, remember that it
is not on the extremity of the Point, but has been placed (as ^°v A^^",^'*^
I think, very improperly) IJ miles to the north-eastward, along the
coast towards Trinity Bay.

Point de Monts may be approached as nearly as three-quarters of Rocks of Point
a mile with safety, but not nearer in a large ship, since there is a
ledge of rocks, with only 9 feet at low water,nearly half a mile south-
eastward of the extremity of the Point, and south-westward of the
lighthouse. There are also one or two patches of rock', with
12 feet water, to the southward and south-eastward of the light-
house, but these are not more than a third of a mile off shore at
low water.

The foregoing remarks apply where the object is to make the
lighthouse, or light, on Point de Monts, which should always be
attempted when there is any chance of success, because it is
extremely desirable to obtain a fresh departure before running up
the comparatively narrow Estuary. But if the weather be so thick,
as to leave no reasonable hope of succeeding, or if the wind
be from the southward, a course should be steered more to
the southward, so us to jmss well clear of the Point.

de Mont*.

■N ^

■4

,, J

i( K ■

'^■^

!>. '^

J N

'h -^

1Ni

'c -:^

<te Moult,

GULP AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

:!>„'!

lilSii

II'

1:1

llii !i

!;'i!n

lii

Amtieotti to

Point lUMoiUi.

Trinity Bay.

From Point de
Mont* to Bic-
quette Iiland,

Entering the
Estuary.

Current turned
off-shore by the
large rivers
and Points.

VesBels beating up against westerly winds should stand over to
the northward, as soon as they can weather Anticosti, unless the
barometer, or other indications, render it probable that the
wind will veer to the southward. During the flood tides, make
short boards off and on the north coast, to take advantage of
it, for it runs strongest in-shore. During the ebb, keep further
off the land, for that tide also runs strongest near the shore. The
tides, in general, are weak along this coast, and a vessel will
always make way to windward in moderate weather.

From the Seven Islands to Point de Monts is, in general, the
easiest part of the passage, for the W.N. W. wind, which, in this
part, is the most common westerly wind, is off the land, so
that a vessel can frequently fetch up to Point de Monts in
smooth water, particularly at night, when the wind, in fine
weather, generally veers a point or two to the northward.

She will also have the benefit of the flood tide, whilst the ebb,
being turned off by Point de Monts, is scarcely felt.

If it blow fresh, and the flood nearly done on arriving
near Point de Monts, there will be no use attempting to beat
round it till the next tide, and then only in fine weather. In
this case, Trinity Bay, where with westerly winds a pilot will
generally be found, is a good anchorage with moderate depth of
water, good ground, and plenty of room to get under weigh.

25. From the south extremity of Point de Monts, the north
side of Bicquette Island bears S. 48°. W. true, or W. S. W. by
compass, 19^ miles ; and the south point of the Manicouagon
Shoals S. 84° W. by compass, .33 miles; but as this great shoal
extends towards English Bay, its S. £. point is only 28 miles
distant from Point de Monts.

We have now arrived at the comparatively narrow Estuary,
where the tides and currents are much stronger, and more various
in their direction, than in the wider parts previously treated of:
and where there are shoals extending on the north side several
miles off the shore ; hence, a good look out, and constant attention
to the soundings, become indispensably necessary at night, or
during the fogs which are so prevalent and embarrassing in
this navigation.

After taking a departure from Point de Monts, the course to be
steered must vary under different circumstances of wind and tide.
The downward current is nut only turned oif to the southward by

ii!i:i:i;:

-''■'ill

;!!; ill

DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY.

itand over to
i, unless the
le that the
tides, make
advantage of
keep further
shore. The
a vessel will

general, the
vhich, in this

the land, so
de Monts in
vind, in fine
ward,
whilst the ebb,

» on arriving
npting to beat
f weather. Tn
Is a pilot will
ierate depth of
!r weigh,
^its, the north
W.S.W. by
Manicouagon
[is great shoal
jonly 28 miles

[rrow Estuary,

. more various

Isly treated of:

Ith side several

Istant attention

at night, or

LbarraBsing in

Ihe course to be
Iwind and tide,
southward by

From Pom! de
MoiUi In Bic-
' quelle Island,

with Ea»ler/y
windi,

Point de Monts, but the Manicouagon and Bersimis Points also

produce the same effect, although in a less degree, during the ebb ]

tide ; to which must be added the streams out of the large rivers

Manicoungoii, Outard, and Bersimis. During the flood tide, the with F/oodtide,

streams out of these rivers cease, the general current is checked

in the ofBng, whilst in-shore, within a few miles of the north

coast, a stream of flood will be found. (Art. 15).

A vessel taking her departure from Point de Monts with a «"'* Ebb tide,
whole ebb tide before her, is therefore very differently circum-
stanced from one which does the same at the commencement of the
flood ; and must reckon upon being set over towards the south
coast much faster in the former than in the latter case.

I will first give directions for a fair wind, and afterwards
for beating winds.

Having made the light on Point de Monts, and being 3 or 4
miles off it to the southward, with the usual easterly winds, nearly
or right up the Estuary, steer W. by S. by compass, until up
nearly as high as the Manicouagon Shoals, then keep half a point
more to the southward, W. S.W. JW. These are safe courses with
either ebb or flood, and if the vessel has left Point de Monts at or
near the commencement of the ebb tide, will usually bring and with Ebb,
her into soundings off Metis, where 30 fathoms, over sandy
bottom, will be found 3 miles off shore ; and 50 fathoms 5 miles
off shore, and on the edge of the bank.

If, on the contrary, the vessel has left Point de Monts early on but with Flood,
the flood, she will probably be further to the northward. I say,
probably, because the strength of the current is too uncertain
to allow of my saying that she positively will be so. How-
ever, the degree of uncertainty, which the irregular rate of current
gives rise to, must be met by the use of the lead. If, therefore,
the weather be thick, and the land not be seen, round to in time,
particularly if you have had the ebb tide against you, and get a
cast of the lead, to make sure that you have not been set too near
the south coast. If no bottom be found at 60 fathoms, the W. S.W.
^W. course may be continued, until you are up as hirh as Metis
by the reckoning, then let soundings again be tried for, and if still
without finding bottom, haul in gradually to the southward, under
eusy sail, and with the deep sea lead going, so as to endeavour to
strike soundings on the bank off Father Point, which may be
accomplished safely, since the bank in that part e.\tends several

■1

' ' I

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

Ijiiiiiil';

!!;i:il! ill!

'I I

'ill 1' .

Il!":ili

From Point de miles oflF shorc,

MonU to Bic'

quette Itland,

71) fMit Bic-
quetle hland
at night.

'<■ i-i.

When Father Point bears south, by compass,
distant 5 miles, the depth is 30 fathoms, over a bottom of soft
clay: and with Barnaby Island on the same bearing, distant
*J miles, the same soundings will be found.

If the object be to pass the islands of Bic and Bicquette in the
night, or foggy weather, run along the northern edge of the bank
of soundings, with the lead going, taking particular care not to go
to the southward into less than 30 fathoms. When you judge
that you are approaching near to Bicquette, having passed
Barnaby Island, haul out a little to the northward until you
are out of soundings, and then steer W. S. W. ^ W., still
heaving the lead, and having the vessel under moderate sail for
the purpose of getting bottom, till you are certain that you are
well above 4;he north-west reef oflf Bicquette. If you strike sound-
ings at all, whilst running past this dangerous island, on which
many vessels have been wrecked, you must haul oif immediately
to the northward out of soundings, and then steer as before.

When you are undoubtedly past Bicquette and its reefs, haul
in to the southward by degrees, till you get hold of the edge of
the bank again, and keep it up to Green Island.

Bicquette and its dangerous north-west reef lie very near the
northern edge of the Bank of Soundings, and wtR difficult to
pass safely, without a chart containing correct soundings; but
now that that want is supplied, it may be safely accomplished
with the assistance of Massey's patent sounding machine, by any
seaman of common prudence and intelligence. Two miles north
of Bicquette there arc 30 fathoms : and only 1^ miles north of the
N. W. reef there is the same depth, with sandy bottom. Further
off no bottom will be found at 50 or 60 fathoms. Both the island
and reef are very bold to the nortliward, having 12 fathoms close
to them.

I do not recommend vessels, without a pilot, to atttmpt running
inside of the Island of Bic in foggy weather, unless very well
acquainted. If, however, it be necessary to do so, for the purpose
of anchoring, sec directions for that island.
DevialioHoftht It nuiBt be remembered, that the courses wiiich 1 have
bt coHiidtretl, reconuneudcd are independent of the (Icvialion, or local nt-
trnction ; and uIho, that its cd'ect, although vai ying in amomit in
diil'crcnt vosscIh, is alwavs to make it unueur that tlicy arc sleeriiiu

nicquelte
Rfrfi.

liic hland
inner pauage.

aiK

le»8 to the southward tliim they arc in reality, if the compnus lie, u?

DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY.

y compass,
ttom of soft
Ing, distant

juette in the
of the bank
ire not to go
n you judge
ving passed
rd until you
r. j^W., Btill
crate sail for
that you are
strike sound-
nd, on which
F immediately
i before,
its reefs, haul
)f the edge of

s very near the
m difficult to
)undings; but

accomplished
ichine, by any
wo miles north
es north of the
torn. Further
Joth the island

futhoms close

ittmpt nmning
ilcss very well
lor the purpose

Ivliich 1 have
or local nt-
in nnio\int in

kry arc Blccrin^
coinprts* l>o» US'

usual in the after paf t of the ship, and if there be no large masses Fmm Point de
of iron, as an iron tiller for instance, still further aft : for, in j,,,/,^ hlaml.
this latter case, the attraction of all the rest of the iron in
the vessel may be neutralized or overcome by that of the iron
abaft and close to the compass. I believe, however, that it very
seldom is so, since the iron tiller and rudder chains in the Gulnare
produced no such effect. To render the effect of deviation ap-
parent, I will suppose it to amount to a point of the compass,
no uncommon occurrence on a 6 or 8 point course, and the ship
to be steering W.S.W. j^W, by the compass in her binnacle.
She will then in reality be making a S. W. by W. J W. course,
which would soon put her on shore on the south coast, an event
that would be accelerated by the current, which, instead of
stemming, she would have on her starboard bow checking her
in-shore.

A case exactly similar to the one I have supposed occurred Fata/conne-
on the night of the 8th September, 1831, when the s\n\) Jane, „fg/fci,„g the
of Belfast, having several large chain cables, and other extra ''"'•"''<"••
iron on board, by which the deviation must have been greatly
increased, ran stem on to Bicquette, with a fair wind, but thick
fog. She was steering the regiilar course up the middle of the
Estuary ; but her master was quite unaware of the effect of the
fj;reat mass of iron in her hold upon her compasses, and equally
so, that previous to the accident which caused the total loss
of his vessel, he had been running for many miles in less than
20 fathoms water, the Bank of Soundings not being laid down
in his chart.

These remarks, and others which I have made respecting
tlie deviation, will, I trust, show how important a knowledge of it
is to the safety of a vessel, and will, moreover, ])oint it out as the
duty of every commander, to endeavour to ascertain its amount
during the voyage, and before he arrives in a difficult navigation
like the St. Lawrence, where the fogs may frequently oblige him
Green Island without having been able to obtain

PUol:

KIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

Fal/ier Point.

Frnm Pnint ile
Monti tip the
rivet; with

Pilots. with the lead going, and endeavour to make the houses on Father

Point, although the weather be thick ; running along the land

from the eastward for tluit purpose, and going no nearer than 10

, or 1 1 fathoms, at low water. Many pilots live there, and there is

almost always one to be obtained.

Even in a foggy night yon may form a tolerably correct opinion
whether you are up to Father Point, or not ; for an inspection of
the chart will show, that the soundings shoal more gradually
in to the southward there than they do further to the eastward.
If you heave to, in 10 or 11 fathoms, low water, with the ship's
head off shore, a gun or two will be almost sure to bring off a pilot,
unless the weather be very bad, for the pilots arc fearless and
excellent boatmen.

26. I have hitherto been speaking of the case when vessels
are running up with easterly winds and thick weather ; but a

SuuMtr/y k'iik/, gggond case is when the wind is from the southward, then the
direct course, W.by S. J S., may be steered, if the vessel be, as
before, close off Point de Monts, or W. by S. if she be nearer the
south coast : allowing still for the set of the current to the south-
ward, according to the tide, and sounding in time if the land be
not in sight. Whenever the weather is foggy, and the land cannot
be seen, the object should always be to strike the Bank of Sound-
ings along the south coast about Metis, or Father Point at farthest,
and then follow it as a guide to the westward.

A third case, of frequent occurrence in the autumn, is
when there is a fresh northerly wind. The weather is then
invariably clear, and, as the land can be seen, there is no danger
of getting on shore with a good look out ; but the strength of the
current to the southward is increased by this wind, and therefore
the vessel must be kept well to the northward, to prevent l)cing set
over to the Ice-shore, and being, in consequence, obliged to tack
(upon the wind veering a point or two to the westward) and stand
all the way back again.

Supposing the shi]) to be in the same position as before, 3 or 4
miles to the southward of Point dc Montv, you may fearlessly
steer wcxt for the first 20 miles, or as long as you can see the
light. Take the bearing of the light every half hwr, and lay it
down on the chart, in order that you may perceive ihe etfect of
the current; and if you thus find that it soft you very fast to the
southward, aa you probably will, particularly during the ebb tide,

wit/t Northrrljf
wind.

DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY.

(n Father

the land

rthaii 10

id there is

:t opinion
pection of

gradually

eastward,
the ship's
; off a pilot,
arless and

len vessels
ler; but a
J, then the
issel be, as
i nearer the
) the Bouth-
Ithe land be
land cannot
of Sound-
at farthest,

lutumn, is
|er is then
no danger
Ingth of the
Id therefore
U 1)cing set
|fd to tack
and stand

fore, 3 or 4
fearlessly
Inn see the
and lay it
Lc ctfcct of
I fast to the
: ebb tide,

haul up still higher, but take care not to bring the light to bear
to the eastward of E. by N., lest you get too near the Manicou-
agon Shoals. When you reckon yourself up to the Manicouagon
Shoals luff up in the wind, and get a deep cast of the lead,
for although those Shoals are very steep on their east side, and also
to the western of Manicouagon Point, yet there are soundings off
their south point. V^hen the Manicouagon Point bears nortii by
compass, you will have from 50 to 60 fathoms, at the distance of
5^ miles off shore, and from 30 to 40 fathoms when you are
4 miles off shore, the bottom being of very fine sand. In tlic
first case, you will be 3i miles off the south point of the shoals,
and in the latter case, only 1^ miles.

When past these dangerous and extensive shoals, the south
point of which extends 2^ miles off a low point of the same name,
which can seldom be clearly distinguished at night, in consequence
of the higher land behind it ; you may haul well up under the
north shore, coming no nearer than 3 miles, and taking care to
avoid the shoal off Bersimis Point, which extends nearly 1 j^ miles
off a low point, also difficult to be seen at night.

There is also a rocky shoal, first discovered by us, and named the
Gulnare Shoal, which lies nearly 2 miles off Cape Colombier.
And, lastly, give a good berth to the low Point Mille-Vachcs, off
which the shoals extend 2 miles, as will be seen by the chart.
All these shoals are extremely steep, and there is, in consequence,
no trusting to the lead in apj)roaching them with a vessel going
fast.

After passing Point Mille-Vaches, the north coast is bold,
and without anchorage, all the way to within 3 miles of the
Sagucnay River.

Although I have said that the strength of the current down the
Estuary of the St. Lawrence is uncertain, yet it may be useful to
give an idea of its rate and effect, as experienced on two occasions.

First, when running up from close off Point dc Monts, which
we left at tlie commencement of ebb tide, with a strong breeze
from the northward, we found tliat wc were retarded by a stream
of 2 miles per hour, and that the set to the southward, at
right angles to our course, was at tlie same time 1 1 miles in
1 iiours, the wind being free and the rate of sailing 8 knots. Tliis
occurred in the month of October.

The second refers to an effect of the tidal stream, which is more

From Point He
Monts vft the
river with
Northerly
wind.

Manicouagon
Shoalt.

Bertimit Shoat,
Gutnare Shout,

Mille-Vachet
Shual,

ln»lnnces of Ihe
effrrls of I lie
Soulh-rditer/if
Current,

•1

^[/Mi

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

i i :i I

Instance of the
effects of the
Soulh-easler/y
Current and
Ebb Tide.

From liicquelte
/x'andtd (ireen
Is/and Liyht-
iiouse.

Crei'n Is/and
Liijhthuuse,

Tides above the
Hiizdde Islets.

local, and higher up the Estuary, but of which it is most important
to the safety of a vessel to be aware.

We had been becalmed 5 or 6 miles south of Brrsimis Point,
when a breeze sprang up from the eastward, at 10 h. 30 m. p. m.
Although we steered W.S.W., tmd S.W. by W.-^W., yet at
4 A. M. we saw Bicquette bearing south 2 or 3 miles, and were
obliged to haul up to clear the N. W. reef. Had tliis occurred
in a vessel wliere the lead was neglected, and had the weather
chanced to be foggy, she would have run on shore, and been in
all probability lost. On this occasion, the ebb tide appears to
have set diagonally across the Estuarj', about E. S. E. by com-
pass, and at the rate of 2 miles per hour; being evidently thrown
off to the southward by Point Mille-Vachcs and its shoal.
During the flood tide, however, it must be remembered, that no
such stream will be found ; on the contrary, I have reason to
believe, that the remark of Mr. Lambly (the experienced har-
bour-master of Quebec) will then prove correct, that " the current
between Bicquette and Point Mille-Vaches sets to the N. E., instead
of E. S. E.," for the eddy flood (art. 14) meets the proper flood
flowing up along the Bank of Soundings, and between Bicquette
and Bic, and the united streams are turned off to the northward
after the (irst quarter flood, as we have ourselves observed.

27. From the north side of Bicquette Island, the lighthouse on
Green Island, which shows a fixed light, bears S. 44° W. true, or
S. W. by W. J W. by compass, distant 30j miles ; and the light
can be seen, in clear weavher, from a distance of 17 or 18 miles,
if the observer be elevated 60 feet above the sea. The lighthouse
stands on the north side of tlie island, and when first seen, from
a vessel on the south Bank of Soundings, appears like a white
sail a short distance from the shore.

In running up to Green Island, after passing the N. W. reef
of Bicquette, a W. S. W. course, by compans, will, in general,
take a vessel along the edge of the bank, up as high as the
lluzades ; but above those islets both flood and ebb set to the
S. E., and render it necessary to steer more to the westward, or
even to the northwar J of west with a scant northerly wind. But
the lead, and a reference to the foundings in tlic chart, aie the
only sure guides. With an cnstcrly wind the fog will seldom be
so thick aa to prevent ritiu'r the Uuzadcs, Bascpie, or Ap^ile
hluuds from being neon iii llii' diiy-timu. They may be tufily

DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY.

important

imis Point,
30 m. P. M.
W., yet at
s, and were
lis occurred
the -weather
and been in
; appears to
E. by com- >
cntly thrown
(1 its shoal,
tered, that no
ave reason to
erienced har-
" the current
N.E., instead
le proper flood
een Bicquette
the northward
lerved.

hghthouae on
|4° W. true, or
and the light
T or 18 miles,
'he lighthouse
rst seen, from
Is like a white

L N. "W. reef
|u, in general,
high as the
Ibb set to the
1 westward, or
ly wind. Bvit
Ichart, aic the
viU seldom be
luc, or Apple
[nitty be taf^ly

approached by the lead, and I recommend the attempt to make Frrn Bicqueiie
the two last, especially Apple Island, which is very bold on the i,gi,thouae.
north side, in order that the position of the vessel may be exactly
ascertained before hauling out into deep water, for the jjurpose of ylpple hland.
clearing the dangerous Green Island Reef. In the circumstances
which I am supposing, of an easterly wind with fog in the day-
time, it is much more safe to attempt to make Apple Island than
the lighthouse, since a vessel can ajjproach within less than two
cables of the former, but would be ashore before she saw the
latter, if the fog were thick, since the reef extends nearly 1^ miles
to the north-eastward of it.

Having succeeded in making Apple Island, the vessel may be
sheered out to the edge of the Bank of Soundings j and as the
distance is short, it is easy to judge when the vessel is coming
near the reef, taking, of course, the tide into account, whether it
be Hood or ebb, and kec])ing the lead constantly going. Then,
if the lighthouse be not seen, sheer out to the northward into
more than 30 fathoms water, and shape a course up towards the
Brandy Pots, according to the tide, as will be directed in Part
the Second of these Directions.

If the lighthouse be seen, or the light at night, there is still
less difficulty in avoiding the reef, and regulating the course
afterwards, provided the chart be consulted, the lead used, and
the tide considered.

But Green Island Reef is extremely dangerous, and is ren- Green hlaml
dered doubly bo, by the strong tides which set upon it, and which "'•^"
produce breaking ripples, that try the nerves of strangers during
a dark night, or foggy weather. Therefore, in a strong easterly
gale, dark nigiit, fog, or snow so thick that there is little chance
of seeing the liglit, I consider the attempt to run through between Danqerofpam-
Red and Green Islands to be attended with great risk, cspeciallv "W ''*''"''«'",
iliiring the ebb tide, which, coming from between Hare Island li/nmln, espe-
Reef and Red-Islet, sets over towards the Green Island Reef, at /Jj^^ "'*
the rate of 5 knots. It requires an experienced pilot to take a
ship safely through this dangerous passage umler these circum-
stances : I should, therefore, recommend, in the case of a vessel ne/Ur fn re-
approaching Bic, in snch weather, towards the close of tiie day, 'h/uini,
and without a pilot, rather to heave to, or i«tand on and otf
the south bank, than run this risk, alth(m^il there may be sonic
danger in so doing from oilier vi'Sb<el(* running up. If the mnml-

n'J

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

From Bicquelle
toGreen Island,

Anchorage
H^eat ofBie
Island.

Beating to the
U'eslwardfrom
Point de Monti,

ings about Bic be well known, or that island, or Bicquette, has
been seen, the safest plan would be to run under the lee, and
anchor to the westward of them, in from 8 to 10 fathoms low
water (according to the directions for Bic and Bicquette), where
the holding ground is excellent, and the vessel would ride in
perfect safety till daylight. Even as far as 6 or 7 miles to the
westward of these islands, in from 12 to 13 fathoms at low^ water,
I have rode out a very heavy breeze from the eastward j the sea,
although considerable, being nothing in comparison with that
which was running, at the same time, in the deep water outside
of us and off the bank.

28. In beating up from Point de Monts to Green Island,
against westerly winds, which are almost always accompanied
with clear weather, there is little difficulty, with the assistance
of the Admiralty charts, other than that which arises from the
set of the tides and currents.

It requires a tolerably good sailing vessel, and a flood tide, to
beat past Point de Monts against a wind right out ; but
short boards round the Point, and along the north coast, up to
Cape St. Nicholas, will most readily succeed. It is not, however,
advisable to keep this shore close on board much further to the
westward, lest the wind should fall to a calm, for there is a strong
indraught towards the mouth of Manicouagon river, during the
flood tide ; and if an easterly wind should chance to spring up,
after the vessel had been drifted in near the mouth of English
Bay, it might be difficult to beat out, or to weather the eastern
side of the Manicouagon Shoals. The light on Point de Monts
cannot be seen on any bearing to the southward of east, being
intercepted by the high land to the westward of it ; and when it
disappears, a vessel ofi* Goodbout River will be only 1 mile from
the Bar, or ofl* Cape St. Nicholas little more than 2 miles off
shore : so that it is a safe rule, in standing in towards the coast
at night, to tack as soon as the light bears E. ^N.

When the ebb makes, stretch over to the southward into the
middle of the Estuary, where that tide is less strong than near
either shore ; but do not go further to the southward, and be back
again to the north coast at the return of flood.

The best time to get past Point de Monts, when fine weather
and westerly winds prevail, is nt night, or in the firet hours of
the morning, fur then vessels are often assisted by a northerly

DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY.

;.n'

into the
lan near
be back

land wind. It' it has blown freshly from the westward during the Beating to thi
preceding day, a heavy head sea may be expected oflf the pitch p^^f j^ Montt.
of the Point : the flood from along the land in the direction of
the Seven Islands meeting the downward current off the Point
assists in causing this.

If, after passing Point de Monts in the morning, wrlh a
northerly land wind, there are signs of its dying away, or vc?ring
to the westward as the day advances, continue the board to the
southward and westward, instead of tacking to keep the north
land on board, as directed when the wind is settled right down ;
for the land wind of the night will be probably succeeded by the
fine weather day wind, which usually becomes a steady breeze
about 9 A. M., after commencing at W. S. W., and thus affords
an advantageous board towards the north coast.

In the fine weather of the summer the wind will probably veer
by degrees during the day back to west and W. N. W., thus
offering another good board to the south-westward. Pilots and
others, who are experienced in reading the indications of the
winds and weather, frequently gain more ground to the westward
by calculating upon these probable changes of the wind, than
by keeping on the north shore out of the current.

With the exception of the low Points Manicouagon, Bersimis,
and Mille-Vaches, of which I have already warned the seaman
(art. 26), the land can in general be plainly seen at night during
the continuance of westerly winds ; and where its features are
sufficiently remarkable, there will be little difficulty in making
it out, from its representation in the Admiralty charts. Mount
Camille, especially, being an isolated mountain, 203G feet above Mumii Caimlle,
high water mark, can easily be distinguished ; as well as the
summit of the high land of Bic, 1234 feet high. Their bearings iii,jh Lumlof
will often be of great service to vessels in clear nights, and will *""■
show when they arc high enough up to fetch Father Point ;
where a pilot should be sought for, if one has not been already PiMs at Father
obtained.

On arriving ori Father Point, or anywhere between it and Bic, /tnchnrnije uff
if the flood be dorc, and the wind be light, it will be better to
anchor on the Bank )f Soundings, weighing again, if there be a
breeze, in sufficient time to stand over and meet the first of the
flood on the north shore. By this mode of proceeding, vchbcIh
will gain much more ground to the westward than by reniuining

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

liertlitig to the
IVntward
alwi' Point tie
Monts,

between
Mille-Fachei
and Sagiienai/
liiver,

nrar lied-
Llet Reef.

lieacimfor
thU Reef

Riftples tienr
Red-hlil.

on the south shore, for although there be a weak stream of flood
upon the Bank of Soundings, from Father Point to the Island of
Bic, yet there is little above that island, and none after the first
quarter flood, excepting so close in shore as to be useless to large
vessels.

From the Bay of Mille-Vaches to within 3 miles of the entrance
of the Sf^enay River, with the exception of a shoal extending
a short distance off shore from the bay next westward of Cape
Bondesir, as will be seen in the chart, the coast is moderately
high and very bold, the flood strong, and the ebb comparatively
weak. Vessels should, therefore, make short boards along this
shore until up to Bergeron coves, and then stretch over to the
anchorage under Green Island Reef, to wait for the next flood ;
for it will require a whole tide, even with a good working breeze,
and a fair sailing merchant vessel, to beat through between Green
Island and Red Islet, and reach good anchorage above, before
the ebb makes.

In standing across from the north shore, beware of the Red-
Islet Reef, which extends 2\ miles to the eastward, from the low
shingle islet of the same name. There is a beacon above and
behind the lighthouse on Green Island, which has been erected
at the recommendation of Mr. Lambly, the harbour-master, to
lead vessels clear of this danger, and it answers the purpose ex-
tremely well. 1 1 is white, like the lighthouse, but much smaller ;
and when they are m one bearing, S. S. E. iE., by compass, the
beacon appears in the middle of a lane cut through woods behind
it. A vessel standing over with this leading mark on, will pass
over the tail of tlie Red-Islet Reef, in from 5 to 8 fathoms, accord-
ing to the time of tide. This beacon will be readily distinguished
in the day-time, but if a stranger should have any doubt of it, let
him be sure not to bring the Green Island lighthouse, or light at
night, to bear ",t all to the eastward of S. S. E., and he will be
in no danger. Crossing, below the reef, with the light upon that
bearing, there will be found from to 12 fathoms, according to
the time of tide, at a mile distance from the reef.

Violent breaking and whirling ripplings of the tide, which can
be heard at a i^rcat distance in a still night, will be met with in
crossing, and are alarming enouu;h to strangers, but there is no
danger witii the lead going, and an anciior cloar to let go in the
event of itB suddenly falling cahn near the reef.

DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY.

The Red-Islet Reef is, however, very dangerous, and the first Beating to the

. . . Heatward

of the flood setff strongly over it, in a direction from Bergeron above Point de

coves towards Green Island. T' . ebb out of the Saguenay also •*'«•'*•

sets upon it, so that a stranger should not make too free with it. jtfa-Met Reef.

If a vessel cannot fetch the anchorage under Green Island Reef,

she may anchor anywhere, in fine weather, along the south bank

between Bic and Green Island, and will have good ground m Anchorage be-

,_., , ,, - ^ ^ t • ^ iween Bic and

12 fathoms, at low water, and plenty ot room to get under weigh. Qfg,,„ hiandn.

In coming up with a N. W. wind, the north shore should be Passages N.
kept close on board until up to Bergeron, and if it be flood tide, /"/^,^ '"•'
the vessel may pass either northward or southward of Red-Islet,
as may be preferred ; but the former passage should not be
attempted with this wind during the ebb, or yet the other, unless
by those who are well acquainted with the set of the tides.

Although the passage to the northward of Red-Islet is the Northern pns-
quickest, there being a much stronger stream of flood in that ^tempilng!^
channel, yet I do not by any means recommend it : on the con-
trary, I think it should never be attempted unless the breeze
appears certain to continue, for if it fell calm, the vessel would
run great risk of being drawn in by the stream of flood among
the dangerous shoals off the mouth of the Saguenay, or being set
down upon Red -Islet Reef when the rapid ebb made out of that
river, which is so strong, and the water so deep, that no anchor
would hold.

To pass to the southward of Red-Islet with the same wind. Southern pas-
haul round the east end of the reef, and ae close to the southward *"^*''
of it as is prudent, coming no nearer tluin 20 fathoms until past
the islet. To those who are well acquainted both with the
soundings and set of the tides, it may be desirable to keep closer
in attempting the passage with an ebb tide, but I cannot recom-
mend it to strangers.

More full directions fur this part of the river will be given at
the commencement of Part the Second, which will begin at
Green Island.

29. For the return voyage, down the Estuary and Gulf, little Retnnmg
or no instruction seems necessary, as long as the wind remains 't'"'" ''"
fair and the weather clear, beyond what may be gathered from
the Admiralty charts and the ])receding remarks. But wlicre
vessels are met by easterly winds and tliick weather anywhere
above I'oint do Monts, great caution, attention to the soundings

,4
!1

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

^Ui'L-

Rttumintf
down the
Estuary.

Wait for fair
wind at the
Brandy Puts,

or anchor under
Jiic hland.

No other an-
chorage except
Gaspc and the
Seven Islands,

Beating down
along South
shore.

^ .7 /

Smooth water
on South shore
Bank of Sound-
ings.

Effect of either
Tide in stand-
ing off.

and set of the tides and currents, becomes necessary to ensure
safety, particularly during the long nights and-)g|||j| weather in
the fall of the year.

Vessels beating down the St. Lawrence usually stop at the
Brandy Pots for a fair wind. But supposing, after they have passed
Green Island, that the fair wind fails, and they ar ^ met with an
easterly wind before they have arrived near the island of Bic,
I should recommend them, in that case, to run up again to the
Brandy Pots, especially if late, or very early in the navigable
season ; for all that they will gain by beating about in thick
weather, probably for several days and nights in succession, will
not be worth the risk. But if they have reached far enough down
at the commencement of the adverse wind, the island of Bic affords
good shelter and anchorage, which should be sought in time,
before the fog commences. (See directions for Bic.)

There is no other anchorage which I can recommend lower
down nearer than the Seven Islands, and after that Gaspe.
There are other places, which will be mentioned hereafter, in
some of which vessels ride for taking in timber, but there they
are moored close in shore, with lower yards and topmasts struck,
by which means they ride out very bad weather, with very indif-
ferent shelter ; but such places are nol fit for occasional anchor-
ages, or for a heavy laden ship to run for on an emergency.

In a vessel beating down, the south bank should be the guide
in thick weather, or at night. She should tack from it, after
striking soundings on its edge, and should not stand to the north-
ward more than half-channel over in any part : thus keeping in
the strength of the downward current, and avoiding the possibility
of accident from the shoals of the north coast, which being very
steep, and affording little or no warning by the lead, have proved
fatal to many vessels under these circumstances.

It will be almost always seen when the vessel comes upon
the south Bank of Soundings, by there being so much less sea
there than in the deep water, and strength of the weatlier
current, outside : a strong ripple will be observed at the edge of
the bank during the flood tide.

In the board from near Bicquettc, during the flood tide, the
vessel will go to the northward rather faster than to the 'south-
ward back again, whilst in the ebb, the contrary will be the case.
But above th^ Razadc Islets, she will go much faster to the

DIRECTIONS DOWN THE ESTUARY.

kes upon

I less sea

I weather

! edge of

|ide, the

! BOUtlj-

|he case,
to the

southward than to the northward, in both tides. Lower down Utiummg

the Estuary, and as far down as Cape St. Anne, she will generally ary.

go faster to the southward than to the northward during the ebb

tide : whilst in the flood, an indraught into the river will be felt

on approaching near the north coast from Bersimis Point, nearly

down to Cape St. Nicholas. The least reflection upon what

has been said of the set of the tides and currents (arts. 15 and 16)

will account for these effects. — .

In a vessel beating down in a dark itight, or thick weather, Coiutant use of,
there is no safety unless the lead be kept constantly going : when dispensable, '"'
she is approaching the south coast, in the board to the southward,
sail should be sufficiently reduced for soundings to be easily .

obtained, and everything in readiness to tack, or veer, at the .

shortest notice. These precautions become the more necessary ^

as the vessel descends the Estuary, and the Bank of Soundings i

becomes narrower. Off Matan there are 30 fathoms, sandy espeeial/y where ,
bottom, li miles off shore; and 60 fathoms, at Smiles off : Jj^f *"•* "'""'
whilst, at the distance of 5 miles from the land, no bottom will
be found at 100 fathoms. The south bank becomes narrower
still to \t\t eastward of Matan, and ceases, in consequence, to be
of use to vessels. Off Cape Chatte there are 30 fathoms of water,
little more than half a mile from the shore ; a short distance
further off there are no soundings at 10 fathoms ; and between
it and Point de Monts, from 150 to 170 fathoms, blue mud
bottom. 4

Below Point de Monts there is plenty of sea-room, and although
the lead will there be of little use, yet the south coast is so high
and bold that it may generally be seen, if the fog be no thicker
than is usual with a regular easterly wind up the St. Lawrence.

Lower down still, with a beating wind and thick weather. Soundings off
soundings may be struck off the west end of Anticosti, or between ■^"'"'<^''«
the west and S. W. points of that island, if it be wished to
ascertain how far the vessel is over to the northward before
night. Eastward of the S. W. point of Anticosti, to Pavilion
River, the Bank of. Soundings off tlie south side of the island is
very narrow ; but from the latter to the east point, there is plenty
of warning by the deep sRa lead, as will be seen by the soundings
in the chart.

I do not recommend the channel to the northward of Anticosti,
in the voyage down the St. Lawrence, because there is not only

.^3 1

)

€

GULF OF ST.' LAWRENCE.

Jtelurmng
acrait the
Gulf.

Belie hie

Strait.

Icebergs,

less room, but also less current in favour. Neither do I recom-
mend the route by the Strait of Belle Isle, on account of the
straggling icebergs, which are in general to be met with there
through all the navigable season. Towards the fall of the year,
however, vessels occasionally pass through it, in anticipation of
the northerly winds which prevail at that season in the Atlantic :
they should be well acquainted with the currents, and should
know the anchorages on the north side of the Strait. Instructions
for making this passage will be given in a future Chapter.

I have purposely not interrupted the foregoing general direc-
tions, by particular descriptions of the coasts, or places, alluded
to. The latter, together with directions for the harbours, anchor-
ages, and dangers, will be found in the following Chapters.

ISLAND OF ST. PAUL.

CHAPTER IV.

THE ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

30, Island of St.Paul.— 31. Bird Rocks.— 32. Bryon Island.— 33. Deadman
Islet. — 34. Magdalen Islands, general Description.— 35. Description
of the Southern side of the Magdalens, and the Anchoring Places
aiid Reefs, with Directions.— 36. Description of the Northern side of
the Magdalens, and the Dangert, with Directions. — 37. Tides and
Currents around the Magdalens. — 38. The Island of Anticosti, general
Description, Provision Posts, and Lighthouses. — 39. Description of the
Southern Coast of Anticosti, with Directions.— 40. Description of the
Northern Coast of Anticosti, with Directions. — 41. Remarks upon the
Currents and Tides around Anticosti.

ISLAND OF ST. PAUL.

30. The Island of St. Paul is composed of primaTy rocks, Deseription of
principally mica slate ; dipping at an angle of not less than 45° to
the southward. Its appearance and shape will be better shown
by the views and the chart, than by any written description. It
is partially wooded with dwarf and scrubby spruce trees, useless
excepting for fuel. The only inhabitants are two men in charge
of a dep6t of provisions for the relief of shipwrecked persons,
supported by the government of New Brunswick. These men re-
side on the north point of Trinity Cove, where there is a dwelling-
house and store. They grow a few potatoes, and shoot ducks
during the winter, and also in the spring and autumn. A very
few foxes are the only wild animals upon the island : there is no
feathered game, or anything else to support life. The ocean
however compensates for the deficiencies of the land. Codfish
and halibut are often plentiful around the island, and mackerel
and herrings may be taken at times, in their seasons.

St. Paul Island is 2tV miles long, by 1 mile broad. Its N.E.
point is a small detached islet, although it does not appear as
such from the sea. This islet is separated, by a very narrow
channel, from a peninsula, between 3 and 400 feet high, which,
together with the isthmus, is so precipitous as to be nearly inac-
cessible. The remaining greater part of the island, whicli is also
very steep and precipitous towards the sea, has two paralle'

.,'1 .•■

jf ■ .' ■

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Deieriphon of ranges of hills, that on the Atlantic coast being the highest, and
attaining an elevation of about 450 feet. A valley runs through
between these hills, having 2 small lakes or ponds, 2 or 300
feet above the sea. These supply the principal stream on the
island, which is about a fathom wide, of yellowish-brown water,

fpaier. well tasted and wholesome, and descending into the sea in the

southern part of Trinity Cove. There are several other, but
much smaller, runs of water, one of which is into Atlantic Cove.
These two coves are nearly a mile from the S. W. extremity of the
island, the first being on the Gulf side, and the other on that which
is towards the Atlantic, as its name implies. They afford the
only shelter for boats, and the only good landing on the
island, which is easier of ascent from them than at any other part.
Off the two coves just mentioned, small fishing schooners anchor,
with the wind off shore, in 10 or 12 fathoms, sand and gravel
bottom, and at the distance of 2 cables' length from the rocks. In
very fine weather, large vessels might venture to ride with a stream

Anchoragt. anchor, in from 25 to 30 fathoms about half a mile off shore,
but should be in constant readiness to weigh, at the first sign of a
change in the wind or weather. Further off shore the water be-
comes extremely deep, as will be seen in the chart, so that there
is little or no warning by the lead in approaching this island in
foggy weather. On this account, although so bold and high, it
is extremely dangerous, and many shipwrecks have taken place
upon its shores, attended with a most melancholy sacrifice of
human life. In few parts of the world would a lighthouse have
prevented a greater loss of property or a greater amount of misery,
and it gives us, therefore, infinite satisfaction to announce, that
the Commission recently appointed to determine on the most
generally useful position for it, has already made their rciiort to
Her Majesty's Government.

The irregularity of the tidal streams and currents add much
to the danger arising from the fogs, which prevail in southerly,
easterly, and often also with S. W. winds. Dtiring the whole of
a fine calm day, at the end of June, we observed the current to set
to the S. E., at the rate of 1 knot, past the north (Mint of the isliind.

Dtirription of
tkt Uird RoKht.

BIRD ROCKS.

31. Tint Bird Rucks arc of coarse red sandstone, or con-
glomerate, in strata dipping very slightly to the S. W., and art

THE BIRD ROCKS.

constantly diminishing in size from the action of the sea. They
present perpendicular clifiPs on every side ; yet it is possible to
ascend them, with great difficulty, in one or two places, but
there is no landing upon them excepting in the calmest sea.
Every ledge and fissure of the cliifr are occupied by gannets, and
the summits of both rocks are literally covered with them. The
white plumage of these birds gives these rocks the appearance of
being capped with snow, and renders them visible, through a
night glass in a clear and moonlight night, from the distance of
7 or 8 miles.

The two Rocks bear from each other N. N. W. iW. and
S. S. E. j^ E., and are "700 fathoms apart. Sunken rocks leave
only a boat passage between them. The south-eastermost is the
largest and highest, though scarcely 200 fathoms long, and not
more than 140 feet high above the sea. The other is divided into
two precipitous mounds joined together by a low ledge. The lesser
of these mounds resembles a tower. A reef extends 100 fathoms
to the eastward, from the Little, or N. W. Bird Rock, and there is
a patch of breakers nearly midway between the two, and rather to
the S. W. of a line drawn from one to the other. The Great, or
S. E. Bird Pock, is quite bold, excepting in the direction of the
other Rock. The Little, or N. W. Bird Rock, bears N. E. by E. 1 E.,
distant 16i miles from the cast point of the Magdalens, and
E. i S., 10} miles from the east end of Bryon Island.

The soundings off the Bird Rocks to the eastward have been
already stated, (art. 20) ; they extend still further off to the north-
ward, so as to afford the most ample warning and assistance to
vessels at night, or in foggy weather, as will be seen in the chart.
Between them and the east point of the Mngdalcns, the depth no-
where exceeds 16 or 17 fathoms, over a bottom of reddish sand,
and sea-eggs are very frequently brought up by the lead.

Between the Birds and Bryon Island, there is a ridge of rocky
and foul ground, on some piirts of which, it has been said, there
is 08 little as 4 fathoms of water, because bottom has been seen
in calm weather. Wc, however, could not find less than 7 fathoms,
but it inuy nevertheless exist, so that a large ship had better not
cross this ri<lgc when there is mucii scu running. The two cliffy
pointii, on the imrth side of Bryon Island, in one, mark the
northern limits uf this rocky ground.

DeteriptioH of
the Bird Rock$.

Heef,

BankofSouml-
ingt.

Foul Grouml
btlu'ten Ike
thrilii anil
HrgoH Itlaml.

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Description of
Brj/on Island.

Hater,

Itee/s.

BRYON ISLAND.

32. Bryon Island, which is uninhabited, is rather more than
4 miles long, in a W. by N. and E. by S", direction, with the ex-
treme breadth of rather more than a mile. Its eastern end bears
from the east point of the Magdalens, N. by E. ^E. lOj^miles,
but its S. W. point approaches to within 8| miles of the north
cape of these islands.

Bryon Island is formed of alternating and nearly horizontal
strata of red sand-stone, red ochreous clay, and shaley grey sand-
stone. These rocks are soft and friable, forming perpendicular or
overhanging clilfs nearly all round the island, which are broken
in holes and caverns, showing how fast they are giving way to
action of the waves.

The soil is similar to that of the Magdalens. A great part of
the island is wooded with dwarf spruce trees, and there is a large
upland tract covered with good native grass. Water is neither
plentiful nor easy to be obtained, but it may be had in small
quantities by digging, and there is a spring on the north side of
the narrow isthmus which joins the eastern peninsula to the re-
mainder of the island.

I had no opportunity of measuring the height of Bryon Island,
but I conceive it nowhere exceeds 200 feet above the sea. The
cliffs on the north side are much higher than those on the south,
where there arc several small coves in which boats may land
easily with the wind off shore. There are three reefs off Bryon
Island. One off its east end extends near thrce-ciuarters of a mile to
the north-eastward : auothcroffthc west end extends \}f miles to
the westward, and the third, off the sandy S. W. point, 1^ miles to
the soutiiward. No marks can be given for clearing these reefs, but
the bearings of the land, as shown in the cliiirt, will afford suffi-
cient guidance to the seaman. The reef off the S. W. point is so
much in the way of vessels passing between it and the Magdalens,
that it may be useful to add, tliat from the southern ridge of this
reef, Bryon Islond subtends an angle of 91°, so that with the
island subtending any less angle the reof may l>e passed. The
south reef assists ^reatIy in turning off the sea from the roadstead
to tlie eastward of it, where vcssils may sufely anclior in ()
fathoms water iind a Mundy holtuiii, iit the distance of u mile or
more from tlie shoic, und wiih all winds froni N.K, round liv

BRYON ISLAND. — DEADMAN ISLET.

north to W. N. W. Small vesa \a in heavy N. W. gales lie at
anchor close under the reef.

There are regular soundings, from 9 to 11 fathoms, with
bandy bottom, between Bryon Island and the Magdalens, with the
exception of an extensive patch of foul and rocky ground, lying
between S.W.4W. and W.S.W. from the west end of Bryon
Island, and having a clear channel on either side of it, as will be
seen in the chart. We could find no less than 5 fathoms here,
and although the fishermen see bottom upon it in calm weather,
I have every reason to think that there is no less water. Never-
theless, large ships had better not run over it, when there is a
heavy sea running, for a small point of rock, with a few feet less
water, might escape the most rigorous examination.

These rocky places are called fishing-grounds by the inhabit-
ants of the Magdalens, because codfish abound upon them. There
is one with 1 1 fathoms of water, 2^ miles north of Bryon Island,
nnt. ^vhlch extends a considerable distance parallel to the island.
T'- sandy bottom, and a greater depth of water within this

t ■•J- ■ .id vessels may anchor, in fine weather and southerly
winds, off the bay on the north side of the island. The soundings
extend so far off Bryon Island to leeward in every direction,
that there is no possibility of a vessel on a voyage being en-
dangered by it, if the lead be used. But great caution is requisite
in approaching the reefs, for they are very steep, especially that
which extends to the southward.

Description of
Bryon hltmd.

Adjacent
Soundings,

Foul ground.

Rocky Jithing-
grounds.

Tlie Reefs are
very sleep.

DEADMAN ISLET.

3.3. The Deadman bears N. 52°W., 7| miles nearly, from ^*'''''>"'"'"/
, /.!•»»,, , . 11 , . Deadman Islet,

the west cape of tlic Magdalens ; and is very small, bcnig

not more than 300 fathoms long, in an E. S. E. direction, and

lce>B than half that breadth. It is about 170 feet high, with

steeply sloping sides, meeting at the summit like a prism, so that

when seen end on, it resembles a pyramid. When seen from a

distance with its longest sides presented to view, its outline very

much resembles that of a body laid out for burial, from which

circimistancc its name is derived. It is composed principally of

trap rocks, and when seen close to, on a bright svniny day, with

the white surf dashing against its vario\isly coloured side^*, it is a

very beautiful object. It is so bold on the west lide, that a vend

!!■: f..

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

h :

Deadman Met, pj^y pjjgg within a Couple of cables' length with perfect safety, but

^''•^" a reef extends towards Amherst Island one-third of a mile.

RockyJUhing- About a mile to the northward of it there is a rocky fishing-

grout $. ground with 8 fathoms least water; and 6 miles S. S.W.J W.

of it, there is another with 11 fathoms. There is no danger

nearer than the " White Horses," to be mentioned hereafter, and

vessels may safely pass between it and Amherst Island. It is,

however, much in the way of vessels passing round the west end

of the Magdalens, and they should beware of it at night, or in

foggy weather, for the lead will give little warning, since there is

nearly as much water within half a mile of it, as at the distance

of several miles.

THE MAGDALEN ISLANDS.

Deivriptimof 34. Tre Magdalens are a chain of islands, assuming an

*l»lm^'^'* >"'CSu^*'' curved direction, the greatest length of which, from the
S W. cape of Amherst Island to the east point, is 35 miles ;
but if the smaller isles be included, as they evidently form a part
of the Magdalen group, the whole length of the range, from the
Deadman to the Great Bird Rock, will be 56 miles, in an
E. N. E. direction.

The central parts of these islands rise into hills, with rounded
and frequently dome-shaped summits, attaining an elevation
above the sea varying from 200 to 580 feet, and which are in
general of igneous, or trap rocks. Around, and on the flanks of
these hills, are stratified deposits of sandstones and ochrcous clays,
with gypsum in the hollows and basins, and also occasionally in
veins. No rock-salt has been found upon the islands, but the
water of many springs and small streams is sufficiently saline to
be nearly unfit for use. The gypsum forms an article of com-
merce, and some valuable ochreous pigments are also found upon
the islands, but the principal dependence of the inhabitants is

Fit/ierie: upon the cod-fishery. The herring and seal fisheries are also
prosecuted to a limited extent.

Hood. The islands are partially wooded, but the trees are small, and

mostly spruce, juniper, birch, and Canadian poplar. The un-

Caii/t. wooded parts produce good grass, and afford pasturage for cattle

and sheep ; but they arc far less abundant than the pigs, which
are fed upon the oHals of the fisli, and make very bad meat in
cunsequeuce. The general character of the soil is sterile, for

MAGDALEN ISLANDS.

ifety,but
e.

r fiahing-
W.iW.
) danger
ifter, and
d. It is,
west end
5ht, or in
e there is
i distance

uming an
I, from the
35 miles ;
orm a part
5, from the
les, in an

rounded
elevation
ich are in
flanks of
jous clays,
lionally in
I, but the
saline to
of com-
lund upon
.bitants is
are also

imall, and

The un-

Ifor cattle

Igs, which

meat in

terile, for

although good vegetable mould may occasionally be met with, yet, fl'"j^'^'*^, °^
on examination, it usually proves to be superficial, being only a
few inches in depth, and having beneath it either the rock or
siliceous and ferruginous sands. The climate is severe; not
quite so cold as at Quebec in winter, but less warm in summer.
Rains, and especially fogs, are extremely frequent, and without
this humid atmosphere the islands would be deprived of the little
fertility which they possess ; the dry and meagre soil requiring
copious and continued supplies of moisture.

There are at present upon the islands about 1100 inhabitants, Population.
the majority of whom are of French extraction, and who all in-
habit Amherst, Grindstone, and Alright Islands', with the excep-
tion of about ]l or 12 families divided between Entry Island,
Grosse Isle, and East Island, near the N. E. extremity of the
chain. Ships may obtain limited supplies of fresh provisions, SuppHet.
especially at Entry Island, and water most readily from Amherst IVater.
Harbour, either from a spring which issues from under tlie
Demoiselle Hill, or from a small stream which falls into Ance k
la Cabane, near the S. W. cape of the island. Wood for fuel is Fuel.
becoming scarce near the settlements. Large spars are not to be
had, unless when they chance to be saved from wrecks, but small
ones, of spruce and juniper, may be obtained. The latter,
of which the inhabitants build their fishing-boats and shallops
or smaller schooners, somewhat resembles larch-wood ; it is said
to be extremely strong and durable.

When first made from sea, the Magdalens appear like several ■^ippenrance.
hilly islands, with channels between, but, on a nearer approach,
they are seen to be all connected together, with the excepti«)n
of Entry Island, by a double line of sand-bars and beaches,
inclosing extensive lagoons, having very narrow entrances,
by which the tide finds access and egress. These sand-bars
are in some parts only a few feet above the sea, whilst in
others they rise into hills of blown sand of considerable elevation.
They appear to lie increasing, since there arc generally ridges of Snnd-riilges,
sand with from 9 to 12 feet water parallel to, and from 50 to 100
fathoms outside the beach. There arc 3 ond 4 fathoms of water
between these ridges and the shore, a circnmstance which has
often proved fatal to the crews of vessels wrecked upon these
shores. These hilly islands thus disposed in a curvilinear shape,
and connected together by sand-bnrs, inclosing lagoons, reminds

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

!«■

De$cripiton of one forcibly of those islands in tropical seas which are connected

the Magdalen

lilandi. together by coral reefs.

In a bright sunny day of summer, the cliffs of various colours
in which different shades of red predominate, and the yellow of
the sand-bars contrasted with the green pastures of the hill sides,
the darker green of the spruce trees, and the blue of sea and
sky, produce an effect extremely beautiful, and one which distin-
guishes these islands from anything else in the Gulf of St. Law-
rence. In stormy weather, the appearance is equally character-
istic. Isolated hills and craggy cliffs arc then dimly seen through
the rain and mist which accompany an easterly gale, and appear
joined by long ranges of breakers, which almost hide the sand-
bars. At such times it is dangerous to attempt making the
islands, for in approaching the lower parts, the breakers would
probably be the first thing seen from a vessel.

Three hnrlmurs The Magdalcns possess no harbour for ships, but three for small
jorsma '^"'/ • yesscls, named Amherst, House, and Grand Entry Harbours,
which will be noticed in the following concise description of the
shores of the i^ hinds and the dangers off them.
. F.uitt Point. 35. The East Point of the Magdalens is of low sand, in-

closing several shallow ponds, and having several sand-hills, some
of which are near its extremity, while others, of greater elevation
and further to the westward, extend in a chain nearly to the N. E.
cape. These last-mentioned sand-hills are inland, and on the
margin of the north-eastern part of the great lagoon. The
N. E. cape is a hill on East Island, which stands at the head
of Grand Entry Harbour. It is a very remarkable cape, and its
isolated cliffs, being 230 feet high, can be seen over all the sand-
hills and sand-bars, so that when these last are below the horizon,
the N. E. cape appears to be the eastern extremity of the chain.

Ijong-Spit, Long-Spit is a ridge of sand, with from 2 to 3 fathoms water,

which extends off the East Point S.E.JS. rather more than H
miles, and for H miles further in the same direction, the depth
is from 4 to 6 fathoms. To clear this spit observe the following
remarks and directions. The southern part of CofBn Island is a
peninsula, forming the southern shore of the Oyster Pond, and
connected to the remainder of the island by a low neck or isthmus
at the west end of the pond. Now, the mark for the 3 fathoms
extremity nf the spit is the north side of this peninsula on with

Vraringmrk, the Old Harry Head. And the south side of the northern

MAGDALEN ISLANDS,

J "3

and, in-
Is, some
;levi\t\on
le N. E.
on the
In. The
the head
and its
le sand-
[horizon,
Ichain.
,s water,
than U
le depth
Dllowing
and is a
nd, and
iethnms
fathoms
Ion with
jorthcrn

part of Coffin Island, (where the narrow neck joins it, as
above mentioned,) on with the Old Harry Head will lead over the
spit in 4 fathoms. A person with our charts before him will
have little difficulty in making out these leading marks, but may,
if lie pleases, pass round the spit, by the lead, in 5 or 6 fathoms,
taking care not to bring the Old Harry to bear to the south-
ward of west. To know when a vessel from the eastward has
passed it, observe, thr^t the ^' of the summit of the rm-ib cape
on with the east sid . tr«o . ^. cape clears it nearl) ' .. uiile
to the S, W., which mark will aiso be useful to a vessel approach-
ing it from the westward. The tides set rapidly over this spit, Tiiles .set acrosx
and, together with the shoal water, cause a heavy breaking sea. * *'"''
It is extremely dangerous, and vessels should take care not to
get becalmed near it without an anchor clear.

Doyle Rekk lies S. J E. distant 6^ miles from the East Doy/e litef.
Point, and consists of pointed rocks. It is very small, being
only 300 fathoms long, and 50 fathoms wide from 6 fathoms to
6 fathoms. The least water is 3 fathoms on one spot nearly in
the centre, and there are 12 and 13 fathoms all round it. The
only mark for this reef is the North Cai)e of the Magdalcns
open two-thirds of its breadth to the N. E. of the North-East
Cape. On the reef, the angle between these marks and tlic
western point of Coffin Island is 24° 2T.

Lying comi)letely in the way of vessels, and very seldom showing,
the sea breaking upon it only in heavy gules, Doyle Reef may
justly be considered as one of the worst dangers off the Mng-
dalens. It has been examined and laid down by us for the first
time, and was previously known only to a very few persons on
the Magdalens. These persons reported that they had at dif-
ferent times seen vessels disappear, which they concluded had
struck upon it.

Proceeding to the south-westward from the East Point, the first f>l'i H'ury
headland is the Old Harry, the S. E. point of Coffin Island, bear-
ing from the east point W. S.W., by compass, 4h mil, s. Between
them is a sandy bay, in which vessels may anchor, with good
shelter, hi all winds from west round by north to N. E. ; but it is
not a place to be recommended, because a vessel would be there
very much embayed by the shoals on either side, and miglit find
it difficult to get out on the occurrence of a sudden shift of wind
cither at night, or attended with fog.

1. 2

fillLF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

C'lfi/mbirte
Slioa/s.

(Irantl Erth-y
Hurl/our.

The Old Harry Head has red sandstone cliffs of a moderate
height, with a reef off it to the south*ea8tward one-third of a mile.

From the Old Harry 2 J miles S. S. W. JW., and S.E. by S.,
2 miles from the east end of the cliffs, westward of the entrance
of the Oyster Pond, lies the outermost of the Columbine Shoals,
a patch of rocks, with 3 fathoms at low water. Within this,
and towards Coffin Island, are numerous small shoal patches
and pointed rocks, on some of which there are not more than 3
feet at low water, as will be seen in the chart. These shoals are
extremely dangerous, and much in the way of vessels hauling
round the east point of the Magdalens with northerly winds.
To clear the east side of them, the wh(4e of the high N. E. Cape
must be kept well open to the eastward of the Old Harry. There
are no good marks for clearing the west side, or for leading
clear outside of them, so that the only guide for the latter purpose
is not to bring the East Point to bear to the eastward of N. E.,
and, for the former, is not to bring the west end of Coffin Island
to bear to the westward of N. W.^N. But although there are
no good marks, an angle with a quadrant will answer the purpose
as well and as easily. On the outer edge of these shoals, the
angle between the Old Harry Head and the left or west extremity
of Coffin Island is 17° : consequently, with these points subtend-
ing any less angle, the vessel will pass outside of the shoals.
Coffin Island extends 4 miles to the westward of the Old Harry,
having on its south side a lagoon with a very narrow outlet, . .''ed
the Oyster Pond, and which boats can only enter in fine weather.
Off the coast of Coffin Island there are several rocks, besides the
Columbine Shoals, but as these are in-shore, and out of the way of
vessels, it is sufficient to refer to them, and to remark, that this is a
very dangerous part of the islands, which should never be ap-
proached at night or in foggy weather.

At the N. W. end of Coffin Island, and between it and the sand-
bars to the westward, is the entrance of Grand Entry Harbour,
which has water enough within for large vessels, and is superior, in
this respect, to any other in the Magdalens. But its entrance is
extremely narrow, not exceeding 50 fathoms in breadth, and the
narrow channel leading to it, between sandy shoals which are said
to shift, extends 1^ mile to the westward. These circumstances
render instructions for entering it of no avail. A native pilot
should be employed, or the channel buoyed or staked, and even

MAGDALEN ISLANDS.

)deratc

u mile.

by S.,

itrance

HOALS,

n this,
patches

than 3
oals are
hauling
f winds.
E. Cape
There

leading

purpose
>f N.E.,
n Island
here are

purpose
oals, the
ixtremity

subtend-

c shoals.

d Harry,

et,. .:'ed
Acathcr.

IsidcB the

|ie way of
; this is a
be ap-

ihe sand-

[ARUOVR,

pcnor, in

Itrance is

and the

are said

[istances

live pilot

land even

then the entrance should not be attempted excepting with a leading Orand Entry
wind, flowing tide, and fine weather. The depth that can be "'^ ^'
carried in, at low water, is 10 feet : at high water, neap tides, 12
feet ; and in spring tides, 1 3 feet. There are 28 feet water at, and
immediately within, the entrance. The ebb tidi ■ .is out witli
great rapidity, and the flood in is also strong. There are no settle-
ments at Grand Entry Harbour, but there are a few families in the
vicinity of the N. £. cape who breed cattle, and are of British ex-
traction.

Within this harbour there is a large expanse of water, from
1 to 3 fathoms deep, extending north-eastward to the southern
shores of Grosse Isle, and communicating by a very narrow
channel with a large shallow pond, which washes the base of
the N. E. cape, and extends to within about 2 miles of the eastern
extremity of the chain. This great lagoon also extends south-
westward, between a double line of sand-bars, to the eastern
shores of Grindstone Island, and is, in all, 23 miles long, and
from half a mile to 3 miles wide. Throughout its whole extent
there is a communication for boats, at high water, perfectly shel-
tered from the sea. There are, at present, 3 entrances into this
laguon from the sea, namely. Grand Entry Harbour, already men-
tioned ; another 3^ miles to the westward, which is very shallow ;
and House Harbour, near its S. W. extremity, between Alright
and Grindstone Islands. There were formerly others, which have
been closed since the time of Des Barres, 1778 : and, on the other
hand, the second, mentioned above, has opened since his time.

Shag Island is small and low, and of sandstone, lying about Shag hlantl.
half a mile from the sand-bars, nearly midway between Coffin and
Alright Islands, and out of the way of vessels.

Cape Alright bears from the Old Harry Head, S. 72° W., Cape Alriyhi.
16^ miles. It is the southern point of Alright Island, and a
very remarkable headland. The cliffs, of a greyish-white colour,
with occasional brick-red low down, are 400 feet high, at the
highest part, which is about a mile to the eastward of the ca})e,
and those to the westward of the cape, towards House Har-
bour, are also very high, and of the same colour.

Nearly a mile inland is the summit of Alright Island, 420 feet AMt,ht Summit,
above the sea. Between this summit and the cape there is a very
remarkable hill, named Bute-Rondo. The south extremity of Butc-Ronde.
the cape ia low, with a small rock close oil' it.

I
■■■-'■ J

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

•*■=

Pear/ Reef.

All ight Reef. Ai-RicHT Reep lies S. 80° E. 3j miles from Cape Alright
to the outer edge of the reef, which io 400 fathoms long, by
300 fathoms wide. It is of white and pointed rocks having

Maika, over them 6 feet least water. On this reef the Bute-Ronde

is on with the summit of Grindstone Island ; the west side of
Cape Alright is on with the west side of Cape Moule : and the
whole of the woody Wolf Island is just open to the westward of

c/.yiWh// J/((/A. Shag IsIb"'!, Therefore to clear the S. W. side, keep the well
marked summit of Grindstone Island open to the south-westward
of Cape Alright; and to clear the south-eastern side of this
reef, keep the east side of the woods of Wolf Island (seen over
the sand-bars) open to the eastward of Shag Island.

The N. E. point of Entry Island bears S.JE. 7 miles, from
Cape Alright ; and the channel between them leads into Pleasant
Bay, passing previously between Alright Reef and the Pearl
Reef.

The Pearl Reef is small and dangerous, and of white
pointed rocks, like most of the reefs round these islands. It is
round, and about 200 fathoms in diameter, with 9 feet least
water. It bears S. 41° E., 8^ miles from Cape Alright ; and
N. 80° E. 4j miles, from the N. E. point of Entry Island. Even
with a moderate swell the sea breaks heavily upon it. Tlie
marks on this reef are the Demoiselle Hill, open one quarter of
a point to the northward of the cliffs of Entry Island, and exactly
on with the extremity of the N. W. spit, above water, of the
same island. This spit, however, can be seldom seen from the
reef. The cross mark is the three high cliffs, on the S. W. side
of Alright Island, nearly in one, bearing N. 44° W., when the
north-westward of those cliffs will be seen over the middle one,
and between it and the south-eastmost. Hence, keeping all
those cliffs open will clear the reef to the westwa- 1, and the
north-westmost cliff completely shut in behind the other two will
clear it to the eastward. The Demoiselle Hill shut in behind
the north side of Entry Island will clear it to the south-
ward; and, lastly, the Di^moiselle kept more than half a point
open to the northward of Entry Island will clear it to the north-
ward.

To the N. W. of Cape Alright, and distant 2^ miles, is the
entrance of Hdusic Hakboiir, h narrow and crooked channel,
with only Icct at low water.

Marks.

Clraring
Marks.

MAGDALEN ISLANDS.

From Cape Alright, S. 80° W. 5 miles, across the bay in which Red Cape.
is the entrance of House Harbour, livings us to Red Cape, the
southern point of Grindstone Island, and the north point of Pleasant
Bay. The opposite point of the bay, Sandy Hook, is the east point Sandy Hook.
of Amherst Island, and beard from the Red Cape S. by E. J^ E.,
6 miles. From this line to the shore of Amherst Island at the
head of the bay, the distance is 4i miles. Between Red Cape and Cape Monk.
House Harbour is Cape Moule, of grey sandstone, off which
there is a rock, with 5 feet of water ; and] there is another rock,
with 3 feet, off the west side of Alright Island. These will be seen
in the chart, and as they lie out of the way of vessels, require no
further notice.

Grindstone Island is the second largest of the chain, being, Grindstone
in this respect, intermediate between Amherst and Alright Islands. * ""
Its summit is elevated 550 feet above the sea at high water.

Amherst Island, the largest and south-westermost of the Mag- Amherst
dalens, is connected with Grindstone Island by a double line of "'"""•
sand-bars, inclosing an extensive lagoon, 5 or 6 miles long, and
from 1 to 3 miles wide, the southern part of which is called Basque Baique
Harbour. This lagoon is fiiU of sands, which dry at low water, ^"''^o^*''
and has 30 outlets into Pleasant Bay, the southernmost being
tlie deepest, but having only 3 feet water over its bar at low
water. The others, including three through the saml-bars of the
N. W. coast, will only admit boats at high water, and when the
surf is not too high.

The hills in the interior of Amherst Island rise to the height
of 550 feet above the sea. Towards the south-east part of the
island, and about a mile to the N. W. of Amherst Harbour, is the
very remarkable conical hill, named the Demoiselle, of trap Demoiselle
rock, and 280 feet higii. The perpendicular and dark red cliffs ^'^'•
of the Demoiselle are washed by the waters of Pleasant Bay.

Amherst Harbour is formed by a peniiibula, presenting cliffs Amherst
of grey sandstone to seaward, in the S. E. connjr of Pleasant ""*''"""'•
Bay. Its entrance, between this peninsula and the sands to the
southward, is 2^ miles within, or to the westward of the extremity
of Sandy Hook, which is a long and narrow sandy point with
sand-hills. This harbour is the easiest of access and egress of any
in the Magdalens, and has, moreover, the advantage of an excellent
roadstead outside, where vessels may wait their opportunity of
running in. Nevertheless, its cntiancc is extremely narrow and

* '■

1^. !

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Amhtrti Har- rather crooked, so that, without a pilot, it would be necessary to
"''' buoy or stake the channel. The depth over the bar, which is

rocky, is 7 feet at low water, and from 9 to 10 feet at high water,
according as it may be neap or spring tides. Within the har-
bour there are from 12 to 17 feet, over a bottom of soft, black,
and fetid n?ud, well sheltered from every wiijd.

PU(U(t.tt Bay. Pleasant Bay is the best roadstead in the Magdalens, and the
only one where vessels can venture to lie with all winds, during
the three finest months of summer, June, July, and August. In
those months, a gale of wind from the eastiK'ard, so heavy as to
endanger a vebsel with good anchors and cables, does not occur
above once in 3 or 4 years. The riding, however, is often heavy
and rough enough in north-cast gales, and a vessel should be well
moored with a whole cable on each anchor, an open hawse to
leeward, and all snug aloft.

The best and most sheltered anchorage is in 4 fathoms, with
the rocky point of entrance of Amherst Harbour bearing S. W.
\ W., two-thirds of a mile, and a little more than half a mile from
high water mark on the sandy beach to the southward, when
a remarkable and high sand-hill will bear S. J^E. A large ship
should anchor further off, and should take notice, that there is only
from 3 to 3j fathoms in one part of the bay, as will be seen in the
chart. The bottom is everywhere excellent for holding, and of
red sandy clay. A vessel, anchored as I have recommended, will
be sheltered from E. N.E.i E. round by the southward and west-
ward to N. E. J N., and will, consequently, have only 3 points
completely open. Even when the wind comes right in, the sea is
much lessened by passing over so much of shoal water ; neverthe-
less, I am of opinion, that the attempt to ride out a heavy easterly
gale, either before June, or after August, would be attended with
great danger, and do not recommend Pleasant Bay as a pleasant
place under such circumstances at any time of the year. In the
northern and western parts of the bay, sandy flats extend more
than a mile from the beach.

From the Sandy Hook to theN.W. point of Entry Island, the
bearing is east, by compass, 2j^ miles. There is an extensive flat
sandy shoal running out 2 miles from Sandy Hook towards Entry
Island, which last has also rocky shoals off its west side. Sandy-
hook Cliannel, between them, is two-thirds of a mile wide, and
4 fathoms can be curried through il by a good pilot, but 3i fathoms

Sandy-hiiok
Channel.

MAGDALEN ISLANDS.

is the utmost that can be safely reckoned on by a stranger. Sandif-hooi ,..

There are several rocky patches of 2h fathoms off the S. W. *" '

point of Entry Island, reaching to fully three-quarters of a mile

from the shore. The ebb tide sets strongly through this channel,

and over Sandy-hook Flat, so that large vessels should go round '

to the eastward of Entry Island rather than encounter so many

difficulties. To run through Sandy-hook Channel from the sea,

keep the east side of Alright Island just open to the westward

of the shingle and sandy spit forming tlie N. W. point of Entry

Island, until abreast of the S. W. point of the last named island,

then haul up for the summit of Grindstone Island, look'ng out

for the edge of the land shoal to the westward, whioh can

generally be seen.

Entry Island is the highest of the Magdalens, its summit Entry iiland.
being 580 feet above the sea at high water. Its red cliffs are mag-
nificent and beautiful, rising, at the N. E. point, to 350 feet ; and
at the south point to 400 feet of perpendicular height. Off the
N. E. point there is a high ruck about half a cable's length from
the cliflfs, and on its north side the remarkable Tower Rock, of
red sandstone joined to the island, and which can be seen from
the S. W. over the low N. W. point, as well as from the N. E.

Vessels occasionally anchor under Entry Island in northerly
and easterly winds, but it is rough riding, by reason of the sea
which rolls round the island.

The inhabitants of Entry Island raise cattle and sheep,
depending more upon the sale of fresh provisions than the fisheries.
Vessels may, therefore, almost always obtain supplies.

From Sandy Hook the south coast of Amherst Island, consisting South coast of
of sand-hills and beaches, with shoal water half a mile oflF, curves jgia„j^
round to the westward, for 6 or "J miles, to the r; ^<>' .-.ie of a
basin, which extends nearly across the island to within less than
half a mile of Pleasant Bay. The Basin is now so nearly closed T^e Basin.
with sand, that boats can only enter at high watei , and in the finest
weather; but, formerly, the entrance was d'ep enough for large
schooners, and it has been frequented by those vessels within
the memory of the elder inhabitants.

There is good anchorage off the entrance, in from 6 to 9 fathoms
sandy bottom, and with winds from N. W. round by north to
east.

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Amherst Cliff: A mile-and-a-half to the westward of the entrance of the basin,
cliffs commence and continue, except in Cabauc Bay, to
the west cape, which is the highest cliflf of Amherst Island,
its summit being 300 feet above the sea. There is a remarkable

Detached Rock, rock above water close to the shore, and about a quarter of a mile
to the southward of it.

Cabane Bay. Cabane Bay is a small bight, between the south and S. W.
capes of Amherst Island, where vessels may safely anchor
with northerly and easterly winds, and where good water may
easily be obtained. The best berth is in 8 or 9 fathoms, sandy
bottom, off the centre of the bay, with the south cape and Cape
Perc6 in one, three-quarters of a mile off shore.

36. From the west cape, the remainder of .he sea-coast of
Amherst Island consists of red cliffs, without beach, but having
shoal water one-third of a mile off shore, all the way to West Lake,
a small pond at the S. W. end of the sand-bars, which join
Amherst and Grindstone Islands. At the N. E. extremity of

Gu/i hlei, these sand-bars is Gull Islet, which is small, rocky, and close
to the western point of Grindstone Island, and has shoal water off
its west point to the distance of one-third of a mile. About IJ^
mile south-westward of it, nearly li miles off the N. W. outlet
of Basque Harbour, and with the west side of Gull Islet and

Shoai. Gros Cap in one, lies a rocky shoal with 3 fathoms at low water,

and leaving no good passage between it and the shore. Close to
the N. E. of Gull Island is the Etang du Nord, a small inlet,
affording good shcltc: to boats.

Uotpttai /iuik. The northern shore of Grindstone Island is of red sandstone
cliffs, less high than those of Amherst Island. Near their N. E.
extreme lies the Hospital Uuck, closp to the si^orc, and also some
rocky 3 fathom patches, more than half a mile from the shore, as
will be seen in the chart.

H'kiie llorte. The White Hohse Ib the name of a very dangerous reef,
lying N. G0° E., 7 miles, from Dcadman Islet ; and due
W. N. W. 5^ miles, from Gull Islet. It is extremely small,
being scarcely more than a cal)le'B length in diitiiieter ; and
having 10 feet least water over pointed rocks, on which the sea
often breaks. On this rerf the summit of Entry Island is www
over a low part of ihc sand-bars nt the N. E. outlttof Havre
Ba8(iue, but this mark cannot be cuvily diBcerucd by u stiangcr,

MAGDALEN ISLANDS.

nor is there any other ; but the bearings and distances, together IVhite Hone.
with the chart, will be a sufficient guide. To those that can take
a terrestrial angle with a quadrant, a matter so simple that it is
astonishing that it is not more generally known and practised, the
following may be of use. When on the reef the western extremity
of Amherst Island and Hospital Cape (the north-easteni extre-
mity of the cliffs of Grindstone Island) subtend an angle of
91° 30' ; consequently with these points subtending a less
angle by 3 or 4 degrees, the vessel will pass outside of the reef.
With a greater angle, 94 or 95 degrees, she will pass inside of it,
or between it and the shore.

There ere irregular soundings and foul ground between this
reef and the shore, but nothing less than 5 fathoms, excepting
what has been already mentioned.

The Pierre de Gros Cap is another dangerous reef of rocks, iHerrt de Groi
nearly of the same size as the White Horse, and having 18 feet '^"
least water. This reef is seldom seen, as the sea breaks upon it
only in very heavy weather. It lies N. 62° E., 6 miles,
from the White Horse; due north from the west point of
Etang du Nord ; N. 56° W. from Hospital Cape, and 3% miles
otf Cape le Trou, the nearest point of Grindstone Island. The
marks on this reef are — First, The summit uf Alright Island
seen over the N. E. point of Grindstone Island, which is in the
lagoon, and very nearly on with Ht)Bpitiil Cape. Secondly, the
Bute de Portiige, a hill of Amherst Island, situated about Ij
miles N. W. of the Demoiselle, midwny or in the centre of the
narrow passage between Gull Island, anu the west point of
Etang du Nord. These marks kept open will clear the reef
to the N. E. and S. W., and a vessel will pass well clear outside
of it, and also of the White Horse, if Deadmiin Islet be not
brought to bear to the westward of S. W. J W.

From lIot«|)itul Cape t«» Wolf Island, olf which t^ere is a rocky
H fathom shoal nearly half a mile from the shore, the nortlieru
(•(last of the Magdalens consists merely of sand-beaches and
Miud-hills for a distance of 9 or 10 miles. The low sanilstono
cliil's of Wolf IsLANn, wliich i. about tliree-cjuarters of a mile mif bland,
hiiig, interrupt tb( continuance of the sandy shore for only
half a mile ; tlic santl IhmicIics then reconnnencc, and continue,
with high simd hills oicasioiially, U or 10 milis fiulhcr, lo the

'ffli'"

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Norik Cape.

North Cape
Rockt.

north cape. In all this part the sand-bars may be safely
approached by the lead as near as 9 or 10 fathoms of depth
of water.

The NORTH CAFE of the Magdalens is the northern point
of GroBse Isle, and a precipice of considerable height, but not so
high as the west point of the same island, which is in the great
lagoon, and 300 feet above the sea.

The North Cape Rocks, some of which always show, lie to the
westward of the cape, the outermost being 6U0 fathoms off shore.
The west end of these rocks bears S.S.E. from the highS.W. side
of Grosse Isle, and their extent to the eastward is marked by the
N.E. sides of the north and N. E. capes in one. Therefore, in
running down from the westward to anchor under the north
cape, do not come nearer to the shore than 1 mile until the above-
named marks open. In this anchorage, namely to the eastward
of the north cape, vessels may ride in 8 or 9 fathoms, over
sandy bottom, with all southerly winds, and will find good holding
ground, and plenty of room to get under weigh. Water may be
had in small quantities near the houses on the east side of the
north cape, but there are no good watering-places excepting those
already mentioned.

The coast continues from the north cape, in a curved line of
8and-bcachc8 and sand-hills, for about 6 miles, which distance
again brings us to the cast point, and completes the description
of the Magdalens.
Making the 37. Although, I have given a general description of the

Aft»7(/rt/r«» uppcarance of the Magdalens, yet as vessels passing to the south-
wunU ward of them have b'^en directed to endeavour to make Entry

Island, it may be useful to add, that that island, when first made
from tlic eastward, will appear like a double peaked iiill, sloping
snmewliat abruptly down to ])crpendicular and high clitl's on either
•idc. The S. W. point of Amherst Island is also a steep cliff,
hi' of less height, and as there is no land to the suutliward and
westward of it, it cannot b(; mistaken. The land rises from it
in undulations to the highest parts of the island. Should the
weather be foggy the Koundings, as shown in the churti, will safely
guide vesBcls parsing to ttic south-eastward of the islands,
Tiic general BOundinr.;B around the Magdalens, wliieli ext(>n>i
oiT them so many miles in every direction, and which liave now

MAGDALEN ISLANDS.

for the first time been correctly laid ilown by ns, thus affording an

invaluable assistance to vessels at night or in foggy weather, will

be better understood from the charts than by any written

directions.

I have now only to notice the important subject of the 7><fc» and
. , 1 1 • I , Ciirreiil&,

set 01 the currents or tidal streams around these islands,

respecting which I can say nothing that, will not be subject

to exception, for they are so irregular, thai the most experienced

and intelligent pilots for the islands, who art also fishermen, who

have passed their lives in fishing craft around them, can give no

certain account of their rate and direction, but all agree in etating,

that they vary in both respects, either from the effects of .vinds,

or other and unknown causes.

Nevertheless, the following observations will hold good as
a general rule, and although subject to occasional interruption the
set of the tidal streams, which I am about to describe, will l)e
found to recur with considerable constancy in fine weather.

A few miles outside of Bryon Island and the Bird Rocks, there
appears to be usually a current setting to the south-eastward, out
of the Gulf ; but the stream of flood tide flows between them and
the Magdalens. The stream of flood comes from the S. E., and F/uud Stream.
is divided by the ciist point of the Magdalens. One branch of
the stream sets strongly over the Long-spit, which, with the
Old Harry Head and the shoals off it, turn it off to the south-
wcstwnrd towards Entry Island, leaving nearly slack water in the
bay between Collin Island and Cape Alright, and also in Pleasant
Bay. The other branch, to the northward of the islands, follows
'the shore from East Point round to the south-west cape of
Andicrst Island, whence the greater part of the stream continues
its course to the S.W. ; whilst the remainder, following the shore
runs round, and along the southern coast of Amherst Island,
until it nuets the lu-rore-menlioned other branch of the stream
from the cast point setting off tlie east side of Entry Island ; it is
overcome by this other branch and turned gradually round to
join the general weak stream of flood to the westward in the
offn^g.

On the S. E. side of the islands, the stream of the ebb tide Ebb SirKim,
sets strongly out of the lagoons and out of Pleasant Hay, between
the Sandy Hook and Rntry Island. It is also often found
running to the westward along the southern shores of Amherst

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

TTideii, Island, and right round it in like manner, but contrary in direc-

tion, to the course of the flood already described. In the offing, at
the same time, the stream of ebb is from the S. W., and sets over
the sandspit off the Sandy-hook Point, where it meets the stream
from the N. W., which has followed the north shore of the
islands, round from Amherst Island to the east point. The
meeting of these two streams of the ebb tide, together with the
shoalness of the water, causes so heavy a breaking sea in strong
easterly winds, that the fishing shallops dare not venture at times
to pass the point.

The rate of either stream seldom amounts to a knot, excepting
close in shore, or round the points. The ebb, however, is gene-
rally the stronger stream, and its rate is increased by westerly
winds, as is that of the flood by winds from the eastward.

ANTICOSTI ISLAND.

Gentrtd 38. The island of Anticosti, situated in the entrance of the

AniZ'/r "'^ N. W. arm of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, is 122 miles lojig, 30
miles in extreme breadth, and about 270 miles in circumference,
following the coast from point to point across the bays.

Lmcsione. Its shores arc everywhere of rock, belonging to one great

formation, namely, a very ancient secondary limestone, aflbrding
in some parts excellent building stone, of which the two light-
houses have been constructed.

Dwur/ Tree». On and near the coasts, the limestone is covered with a thick
and often impenetrable forest of dwarf spruce, whicli, in some
exposed situations, is only a few feet in height, with gnarled
branches, so twisted and matted together, that a man may walk
for a considerable distance on tlicir summits. Extensive banks
of limestone shingle, bush, swamps, morasses, and also beds
of peat, are of connnon occurrence.

Timber. The interior of the island is probably less sterile, for I have

seen white spruce spars large enough for the musts of a schooner of
60 tons, and others of juniper ; with a species of larch of excellent
quality, and of sufficient size to form the keel of a vessel of the
same dimensions. Black and wliite birch, and ash, the latter of
bad quality, complete the list of trees which attain to any size
upon the island. These, indeed, are not indicative of a very good
soil anywhere, l)ut when they attain to large dimensionHHOuie toil
at least will be found.

ANTICOSTI ISLAND.

thick
some
iiarlcd
walk
xinks
beds

Land birds appear to be. very scarce, probably because there (^•'"''ral

. , , , 1^ ' DetcrijilioH of

arc few wild fruits for their support, the cloud berry, on the peaty Antimtti.

morasses, being the only one we observed in any plenty. Even Iiird»,

the common Canadian partridge, or wood grouse, to be found

almost anyAvhcre else, is said not to exist upon this island. In

winter, however, the white partridge, probably ptarmigan or

willow grouse, is seen in the interior. There are as few Qumlrupeih,

varieties of quadrupeds as of the feathered tribes. The squirrel

and Canadian hare, without which I have rarely seen an island of

any size in the Canadas, were never seen by us, and are reported

not to exist here. If I may believe the account of M. Gamache,

who has resided and hunted here for many years, there are only

4 or 5 species of quadrupeds upon the island, namely, the black

bear, fox, otter, mnrtin, and a few mice. I was also informed,

that there are neither snakes, toads, nor frogs, nor did we ever sec

any ; and that rats, which have occasionally landed from wrecks,

have soon disappeared.

The climate, from its proximity to an open sea, is probably not Climate.
more severe in winter than that of Quebec, although further to the
north, mt the summers are cold, wet, and stormy, with frequent
fogs. Frosts are common in August, and in some severe seasons
they occur in every month of the year. It is probable that no
other grain but barley would ripen here, unless it might be oats
occasionally in sheltered situations. Potatoes are frequently
prevented by early frosts from coming to perfection, although
planted in the most favourable situations.

It appears, therefore, that not much can ever be expected from
the products of the soil, but the forests, the rivers, the reefs, and
the surrounding sea, contribute in affording a j)rofitable return to
the industry of the few persons who reside upon, or frequent the
island.

Streams of excellent water descend to the sea on every part River:
of the coasts. They are generally too small to admit boats,
becoming rapid immediately within their entrances, and even the
largest of them, Observation River, to the westwanl of the
S. VV. point, is barred with sand, excc])tiug for short intervals
of time after the spring freshets or heavy rains.

Many of these streams abound with trout, and are visited Tvout ami
perioilic.ally by great ninnliers of salmon, which are taken by the *"""""•
2 or 3 retiidcnt families, and t<alted fur the Quebec nunkct.

■4

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Generat

Deicriptionof

jinticottit

Codfitk.

Bears.
Exporli.

Eltvalion.

No harbour.

Danger » of itt
coaatt.

Seals frequent the flat limestone reefs, and are killed annually
in great numbers for their skins and oil.

Codfish are taken occasionally off several parts of the coast,
in small schooners from the Magdalens, and other parts of the
Gulf, Their crews often join the occupation of wrecker to that of
fishermen . The black bears are very numerous, and may frequently
be seen wandering along the shores. Their skins, together with
a few of the other animals named, salted salmon, seal skins, and
seal oil, are the only exports, and are taken to Quebec, together
with occasional cargoes of goods and people saved from wrecks in
M. Gamache's schooner, the only vessel belonging to the island.
Wild geese, outards, and ducks of various species are abundant,
and breed upon the island.

Anticosti is estimated to be nowhere higher than 700 feet
above the sea. Its south coast is low and shelving, with reefs
of flat limestone which dry at low water. There is, however,
a range of highlands in rear of the S. W. point, and extending
for some miles both to the north-westward and south-eastward of
it. The north coast, for 70 ot 80 miles to the westward of the
east point, is bold, precipitous, and of considerable elevation.
Picturesque headlands, the eastern terminations of parallel ridges
of table land, that rise gently with the strata from the S. W., end
in magnificent cliffs of limestone, which are externally so nearly
white from the effects of weathering, as to resemble chalk. Some
of these cliffs are upwards of 400 feet in periiendiculnr height-
The remainder of the north coast is low, with reefs of flat lime-
stone, like the southern shores.

It is tmusual to find an island so large as Anticosti without
a good harbour. Limestone coasts are in general characterised
by deep inlets and bays, peninsulatcd points, and detached islets
and rocks, but nothing of the kind will be found here, and there
is not a single detached shoal off any part of the coasts.

This island has been generally believed to be extremely
dangerous. Its reefs of flat limestone, extending in some parts
to lA mile from the shore, the want of anchorage off most parts of
the coast, and above all the frequent fogs, justify this belief in part,
but not in so great o degree, as to render reasonable the dread
with which it seems to have been occasionally regarded, and
which can only have arisen from the natural ^tendency to magnify
dangers of which we have no precise knowledge.

ANTICOSTI ISLAND.

0.5

The people in charge of the lighthouses and provision-posts, General Dp-
and one man at Fox Bay, are the only resident inhabitants of the ■"'•'■'/''"'"•
island. Tlie provision -posts have been established by the govern- „ pi

nr.snt and legislature of Lower Canada, for the relief of the crews
of vessels wrecked upon the island. Vessels are more frequently
lost here in the bad weather at the close of the navigable season,
than at other times, and their crews would perish from want and
the rigours of a Canadian winter, if it were not for this humane
provision. The first of these posts is at Ellis Bay, the second at
the lighthouse at the S. W. point, the third at Shallop Creek
(sometimes called Jupiter River), and the fourth at the lighthouse
on Heath Point.*

The lighthouse, on the extremity of the S. W. point, has been Lighthouse nn
built of a very beautiful greyish-white encrinital limestone, po,>^/°"
quarried on the spot. The tower is of the usual conical form,
and 75 feet high. The light, which is bright, and revolves every
minute, can be seen from N. N. W. round by west and south to
S. E. by E. The lantern is elevated 100 feet above the sea at
high water ; consequently the light can be seen from a distance
not exceeding 1 5 miles, when the height of the observer's eye is
10 feet above the sea. When the height of the eye is 50 feet,
the greatest distance from which the light can be seen will be
about iOj miles, and if the eye be elevated 100 feet the light will
be visible as far off as 23 miles nearly, in the average state of the
refraction. Hence by ascending the rigging till the light just
shows above the hcizon, and then measuring the height of the
eye above the sea, a very near estimate of the vessel's distance
at night may lie obtained. This lighthouse, and attached pro-
vision-post, arc in charge of Lieutenant Harvey, on the half-pay
of the navy.

The other lighthouse, on the southern extremity of Heath l.ifjhthimsr on
Point, is of the same form, (limcnsions, and colour, as the above, ' "'"

iiilt.

* Theru ate diruction boiirils elected on the sliore, or miilwl to trui's. from Direclwn
which the lirauches have heeii nit off', ni'iir Die lieach. ami on various parts limirds.
of the I'oast. Tlieie direction lio.irds are intended to imint out to ship,
wrecked persoiiH the way to the provision posts. The direction lioariis weru
placed un the foUowiu}; piirts of the shore, as I find from Mr. Lanibly's
remark-book, for I have not seen tliom all : — Ist. On the west point, ind.
Four Iea);ue8 south-eastward of Kllis Huy. 3rd, Ten leai'ium westward of
ijhallop lireek. -1th. Seven U'a);iios eastward of Shallop Creek. And there
were foinivily (lthel^ on Heath I'oint ui.d the S. W- point, which the li^ht-
luMises have reiuKii'd unnecessary

Description of
Anlici'Sli,
South Ciiait,

East Cape,

Wreck Bay,

Heath Point,

llralh Point
lite/,

ml to be ap-
pronr/ied nearer
than 3 mileSfOr
in 2U fathoms
water.

Heath Point
/tnvhurage.

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

and is also built of the island limestone. It has not as yet been
lighted, from want of funds, but is intended to show a bright
fixed light from W. N. W. round by S. to N. E. by N. The lan-
tern will stand 100 feet above the sea.

Having given this general description of the island, I will now
notice more particularly its shores, reefs, and anchoring places.

39. The east Cape of Anticosti is a perpendicular cliff of
limestone, rising to the height of 100 feet above the sea. The
ridge, of which it is the south-eastern termination, trends to the
westward inland, and the extremity of the very low land to the
southward of it is Heath Point, on which is the lighthouse,
bearing from the east point N. E. J N., 3^ miles. Between the
2 points is Wreck Bay, which is dangerous and affords no
anchorage. Off to the S. E. from the east cape a reef extends
rather more than one-third of a mile.

Heath Point is of limestone, about 10 feet high, with a super-
stratum of peat, in whicli there are several ponds of dark bog
water. Being so low, this Point disappears below the horizon at
the distance of a few miles, the lighthouse then appears like a
sail off the island, and is extremely useful, in marking the extent
of the low land to vessels, either from the eastward or westward,
as well as in showing its position from the southward, from which
direction it cannot be made out at night, being hidden by the
high land behind, or to the northward.

The most dangerous reef off this end of the island, runs out
from Heath Point to the E. S. E., nearly 2 miles, at which
distance there are 5 fathoms of water. Within tlint distance the
reef is composed of large square blocks of limebtone, with very
irregular soundings varying from 2 to 5 fathoms. The rocky and
irregular soundings from 5 to 7 fathoms extend nearly 3 miles
off Heath Point, so that I recommend vessels not to approach
nearer, on any bearing from the Point between S. E. by S. and
E. by S. With the east cape bearing N. by W. the vessel will
])aBs just outside of the shallow and irregular soundings in alxiut
20 fathoms of water.

Off Heath Point, to the southward and westward, the shoal
water does not extend beyond three-quarters of a mile, and further
off on that side there is one of the best open anchorages on the
island. The best berth ia in 10 fathoms, over sand and nnid
bottom, with the lighthouse E. by N., and Cormorant Point

ANTICOSTI ISLAND.

shual
further
on the
(1 mud

Point

nothing to the westward of W. N. W. The vesael will then be Suuih Cans/.
2 miles off shore, and will be sheltered from all winds from
W. N. W. round by the N. to E. by N.

From Heath Point Cormorant Point bears W. by N., 6 miles ; Cormorant
and the south point bears W. N. W. 16J^ miles from Cormorant
Point. In this distance the coast is low, and undulating, with
points of low limestone cliffs, and beaches of sand and shingle in
the bays, inclosing large ponds or lagoons, into many of which
the tide flows, and also small streams from the interior of the
island. This part of the coast may safely be approached by the
lead, as will be seen in the chart, for the reefs nowhere extend
further off than three-quarters of a mile till we come to the south
point.

The SOUTH POINT is a cliff of sandy clay, resting upon lime- South I'uint.
stone. It is estimated not to exceed 60 feet in height, iid there
is nothing remarkable in its shape ; but there is no other clay
cliff near it, and as it is an extreme point, there will be littli
difficulty in distinguishing it by the trending of the land. Thi
reef oflFit to the southward, runs out n'jarly IJ^ miles, and the sea Reef,
usually breaks upon it. The light on Heath Point and Cor-
morant Point in one, bearing E. by S., clear this reef at the
distance uf Z miles, but I fear that the light will seldom be seen
up to the reef, which is distant 22 miles from it. The leading
mark will nevertheless be of use to vessels between South
Point and Cormorant Point.

From South Point to the lighthouse on the S. W. point, a Smih Coaai.
distance of 56 miles, there is such a sameness in the character of
the coast, that it is very difficult to make out one part from
another. 'A^a >..,//

The houses, however, of Mr. !^bb^B», in charge of the pro- s/m//on Creek.
vision post, at Shallop Creek, will be seen 13 miles north-west-
ward of the south point, and at the first limestone cliff to the
north-westward of those houses is Pavilion River, 24 miles from PavUiun River,
South Point. In this distance the coast is very low, and may ,/

be approached safely by the deep sea lead, the soundings in
moderate depths extending from 5 to 8 miles off, as will be seeu^'"'' '
in the chart. The coast begins to rise at Pavilion River, there ' /'<■
being a high ridge close in rear of the coast all the way to the
south-west point, and beyond it for some miles. Tiiis distance of
32 miles, between Pavili ai River and the S, VV. point, coinpriacs

.«.'
>

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

I 't

Rrefa nfflhe

S<mlli-'H'est

Coast,

Full/ i/rotiiul.

Detcription of the boldest parts of the south coast of the island, but should Ixr
Simth'coast. ^^^y cautiously approached in foggy weather, us there is little or
no warning by tlie lead. When far enough to the westward, the
light on South-west Point bearing nothing to the westward of
N. N. W., as before directed (art. 23), will be a sufficient
guide.

In the whole distance from South to South-west Points, the
reefs nowhere extend further off from high water mark than one
mile, and the island may therefore be safely approached to within
2 miles.
Slid take Bay. Eleven miles south-eastward of South-west Point, is Salt-lake
Bay, which has fine sandy beaches, enclosing lagoons or ponds,
into which the tide flows. Off the centre of this Bay, and with
its N. W. point bearing N. by E. J E., distant 1| miles, there is
very indifferent anchorage, in 7 fathoms, over sandy bottom.
Vessels should be careful not to anchor further to the southward
and eastward, since there is some foul and rocky ground about a
mile in that direction from the jjosition which I have recom-
mended. There are 7 fathoms rocky bottom marked in the chart
on the s})ot to which I allude, and there is probably less water
between it and the south-eastern point of the Bay, so that no one
should attempt to pass between it and the shore.

The S. W. point of Anticosti is u low projecting ridge of
limestone, having a small cove on its north side, which forms it
into a peninsula. The land rises gradually, in the rear of this,
to the summit of the ridge above-mentioned. On the south side
of the point there is a beach of limestone gravel on which boats
may land, as well as in the cove on the north side, when the wind
is oft' the land, and the sea smooth. On the north side of the
point, and for several miles along the coast to Observation River,
the cliffs arc perpendicidar and washed by the sea. The light-
house (page 65) stands on the western extremity of the point,
aiul forms a very conypieuous land-mark. A reef extends out from
tlie point, to the west and S. W., not more than half a mile ; and
2 niiles off, in tlie same direction, there are 30 fathoms, over
rocky bottom, deepening rapidly to 05 fathoms, with sand and
shells, at the distance of 3 miles. At the distance of 6 miles, to
I lie southward and westward of the point, the depth is about 1 10
I'iitlidms, with nuid Imttoin, niid iiu'rcases to 200 fathoms nearly
midwuv towards the soutii cuiist

S'liilh- fVtsl
I'uinl.

I,anilinif
Heiiv/ies,

Lighlhouse.

Reef frnm
S. tr. Point.

Siiuniliiiiji.

ANTICOSTI ISLAND.

There is a bay on the north side of the point, in which vessels fVe*i Coati.
may anchor in 12 or 13 fathoms, over a bottom of sand, gravel, Anchoraqt at
aiul broken shells, and with the extremity of the point bearing ""'""*»'
S. S. W. 4 W., distant three-quarters of a mile, when the cliffs to
the eastward will be at the same distance. The shelter is from N.
by E. round by E. to S. by W., and small vessels may lie closer under
the point, but it is a dangerous state to be caught in by westerly
winds, which are preceded by a heavy swell. The ground, I
think, is not to be trusted, so that, altogether, I do uot recom-
mend any vessel to anchor here unless in case of necessity.

There is no anchorage from South-west Point to Ellis Bay, No anvlmmne
and as I have already given directions respecting this part oi ////i^ ^'"''^
the western coast (art. 23) little remains to be noticed. The reefs
of flat limestone extend from it, in most parts, fully a mile; and
often have 10 or 12 fathoms of water close outside of them ; but
vessels, with the lead going, may safely stand in as near as 2
miles, or, which will be safer than an estimated distance, had
better tack in 17 fathoms.

Observation River, 5i miles northward of South-west okseivaiwit
Point, is the largest stream on the island, having 5 or 6 feet of ""^'^'
water in its entrance after the melting of the snows in the spring
of the year, but soon becomes barred with sand by the S. W. gales.
It becomes shoal and rapid immediately within, though it has a
course from the eastward of many leagues. It source does not
appear to be known to the people of the island. Immediately to Hii/h Sand,/
the northward of this river there are very conspicuous, and high, '**"
sandy cliffs. The St. Mary Cliffs, 21 miles from South-west S/. A/«/y c/(/«.
Point, are also of sand, less high, and less remarkable, but yet
not difficult to distinguish.

Becscie River is a very small stream, at the head of a small Hectcw Niter.
cove affording shelter to boats, and where there is a hut, at which
a hunter and fisherman occasionally resides. It is 7 miles north-
westward of the St. Mary Clifis, and 12 miles south-eastward of
Ellis Bay.

Ellis Bay affords the only tolerably sheltered anchorage ^■V/ic Ihi/.
in the island. Vessels, whose draught is not too great for a
depth of 3 fathoms, may safely lie there during the three finest
months of summer, namely June, July, and August; but they
should moor with an open hawse to the southward. Larger
vessels, whose object is to remain lor a few hours only, may

GULF OF ST. LA'WRENCE.

Il- tt

■'•If

t»;

I;.

liee/s/rom
Cap I'll Henry
and Eagle.

Descripiion of anchor further otit, and in 3i and 4 fathoms, but neither the
Wis/ Coatt. ground nor the shelter will be found so good as further up the

bay,
lient Amhorage The best berth is in a line between Cape Henry and the white
.» EIUh Bay. ^jjjy^ bearing W. S. W. \ W., and E. N. E. h E. respectively from
each other. Gamache house, N. by E., and Cape Eagle between
S. S.E. J E., and S. S.E. J E. The vessel will then be in 3
fathoms, over muddy bottom, distant about 300 fathoms from the
flats on either side, and about half a mile from those at the head
of the bay. The extremities of the reefs, off Capes Henry and
Eagle, will bear S. W. by S., and S. J E. respectively ; thus
leaving 3j points of the compass open, but in a direction from
vhich heavy winds are of very rare occurrence, and never last
long. Moreover, when they do chance to occur, the sea is much
less at the anchorage than might be expected, although very
heavy in the entrance between the reefs. These reefs are of flat
limestone, and dry at low water ; and as the tides only rise from
4 to 7 feet, the sea always breaks upon them when there is the
least swell. The reef off Cape Henry runs out nearly a mile to
the southward, and that off Cape Eagle nearly three-quarters of
a mile to the westward. The entrance between them is 600
fathoms wide, from 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms. Extensive flats pro-
ject from these reefs quite round the Bay, and do not entirely dry
at low water, excepting in very low spring tides, but there are
immense boulder-stones upon them which always show. These
flats occasion the lauding to be very bad, excepting at high water,
which is the only time that supplies of good water can be obtained
from Gamache River.

Ellis Bay can be easily made out from sea, for Cape Henry is a
bluff point, and the land being very low at the head of the Bay,
occasions the ojiening to show distinctly. On a nearer approach
Cape Eagle and Wliite Cliff on the east side, and the houses
near the head of the bay, will be easily recognized with the
assistance of our chart ; whilst two ridges, or hills, will be seen
far back in the country, and to the northward and eastward.

The long line of breakers on either side, and the numerous
large stones so far from the shore a-head, will present anything

liail /anding.
Good IVitter,

Gamache
Jitver.

Cape Eagle
easi/g reiug-
nined.

Direi ti'ins fur
' entering Ll/is

Bag.. , - 1 , • n

i^j- 1^^ \ ©J. ^'"^ "" agrteable appearance to those wiio may approach this Bay

/ for the first time, but there will be no danger, if tiie following
direction be attended to. In aitproaching the Buy from the west-

ANTICOSTI ISLAND.

ward, with westerly winds, run down along the outside of the fVeit Coait.
reefs off Cape Henry by the lead, and in 10 fathoms, until the Ei^'» Bay.
following leading marks come on; namely, the west side of~!""f""*
White Cliff on with the east side of the westermost of two hills,
far .back in the country, and bearing N. E. |N.j then haul
up with these marks on, and they will lead you into smooth
water close under Cape Henry Reef, in 3^ fathoms. Con-
tinue running in, with these marks on, till Gamache house
bears N. by E. ; then haul up for it, and anchor in the berth
which I have previously recommended. The lead should be kept
going ; and the reefs on either side should not be approached
nearer than 3 fathoms, in any part, until you arrive at the
anchorage.

In running for the Bay from the south-eastward, with an easterly
wind, come no nearer to the west point of Cape Eagle Reef
than 7 fathoms, until the east side of White Cliff come on
with the east side of the same hill as before ; then haul up with
this mark on till the houses bear N. E., and proceed as above
directed. Take notice that the west side of White Cliff is used
for the leading mark in westerly winds, and the east side in
easterly winds, the intention being to keep the vessel in either
case from going too near the lee side of the channel.

On the outside of Cape Henry, and continuing to the west Reefi between
point of Anticosti, reefs extend li miles from the shore; ^^^ amlWes"point
vessels approaching it should keep the lead going, and attend
to the soundings in the chart.

40. West Point is low and wooded, with reefs which do not mtt Point.
extend beyond a mile from the shore, and vessels may pass it in
15 fathoms at the distance of 1| miles.

The north coast of Anticosti, between the west and north North Coast.
points, is low, with reefs of flat limestone, extending 1 mile from
the shore. There are soundings, in moderate depths, for more
than 1 mile out from the reefs. Vessels shotild not go nearer
than 25 fathoms. In the rear of the coast, i.nd about halfway
between the west and north points, are the two hills or ridges,
mentioned as forming one of the leading marks for Ellis Bay.
From North Point to High Cliff, a distance of 13 miles, the
coast is rather more bold and elevated, parallel ridges, in an
east and west direction, and with small streams between them,
beginning to abut upon the coast. North Point is wooded.

■iW,
an

■V,

•Ml

If'

'%-r*

Description of
Antwtisli,
North Coait.

From High
C/ifftn mite
Notth-clilf.

Reefs 2 miles
in breaitt/i.

#■

Ciir/eton I'uirit

'94

.Invhurnije,

Hitler.

('(I fie Ukerva-

ItiH.

.■Inr/inrnr/r,

Woin/fflftU

tl'iitir.

Ikar llitiil.

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

of very moderate height, and without any cliff. Kt is so little
remarkable as ta be only distinguished by the change which
takes place at it in the direction of the coast. High Cliff Cape
is easily recognised, being the only cliff on the island that has a
talus in front of it, or that has not its base washed by the sea at
high water.

From High Cliff to White North-cliff, a distance of 26 miles,
the coast is low in front, with ridges of considerable elevation a
/ew miles back in the country. This is the most dangerous part
of the north coast, for the reefs extend nearly 2 miles out from
high water mark, beginning at some low cliffs 1 miles eastward
of High Cliff Cape, and continue to do so for 4 or 5 miles to the
south-eastward, after which they gradually diminish in breadth,
till at White North-cliff they are not more than half a mile from
the shore. There is, however, less warning by the deep sea lead
all aloHjT this part of the coast until we approach White North-
cliff, off which there are 70 fathoms, at the distance of H miles
from the surf.

White North-clifF is very remarkable, for there is no other
high cliff near it. It aj)pears like a white patch on the land, and
can be seen from a distance of 6 or 1 leagues.

Low cliffs commence 4 miles south-eastward of White North-
cliff, and continue to Carleton Point, under which vessels may
anchor in fine weather and westerly winds, and obtain wood and
water. Ten miles further to the south-eastward is Cape Oljserva-
tion, a bold, high, and remarkable headland. On its west side
there is a magnificent range of greyish white cliffs several hundred
feet high. At the extremity of the cape, these cliffs become sud •
deiily much lower, and then rise again to their former elevation
for a short distance on the cast side. As this is well described in
the clmrt the cape will be easily recognised. Vessels may anchor
luider it with westerly winds and fine weather, and obtain sup-
plies jf wood and water very conveniently. Twelve and a lialf
miles further south-eastward, along a bold coast with high
greyish white cliffs and smiill bays between, brings us to Hear
Head, also of lireyish white cliffs 400 feet hiirh, and resembling
in some degree Cape Observation. This last niinicd clilf hmt no
cfpuilly high cliU'w to the wt>- ''ard of it, whilst Hear Iliad has a
difference whicii will pievent the one from being mistaken for
liie other.

ANTICOSTI ISLAND.

From the WoBt Cliff to Bear Head the coast is extremely bold, North Coatt.
there being in most parts 100 fathoms of water within 3 miles of
the shore.

Bear Bay is situated between Bear Head and Cape Robert, Bear Bay.
which are distant nearly 6 miles from each other, in a N. N.W. ^W.
and S. S. E. \ E. direction nearly. It is by far the best roadstead Goml Road-
on the north coast of Anticosti, and, indeed, the only one in which *'*" '
a large ship would like to anchor, unless she had some particular
object in view. It is sufficiently roomy, the bottom is excellent
for holding, the depth of water moderate, and the shelter extends
from N. N. W. round by west and south to S. E. by S. In order
to recognise this anchorage, it may be observed that Cape Cupe Ruberi.
Robert consists of cliffs of the same colour and elevation as
those of Bear Head ; and that there are two other points of cliffs
300 feet high within the bay, the south-eastmost of whuli is
named Tower Point. Between Towtr Point and Cape Robert, at Tuu<er Ptiini.
a distance of one mile from the former, as well as from the
western shore, pud in 13 fathoms of water over a iioitom of
brown mud, is the best anchorage, where Tower Point will
bear N.W. 4 W., Cape Robert S-E.^S., and Bear Head N.by
W. iW.

Bear Bay is divided into three smaller bays by the two high
points of cliff which I have mentioned. In each of these bays
there are line bold beaches of sand and limestone shingle, and
streams where water may be easily obtained. But the principal llaier.
stream is Bear River, which enters the southernmost of the three
bays close to the S. E. side of Tower Point. It is too shallow and
rapid to admit boats, but the water is clear and good. The cliffs
in Bear Bay are nagnificent : they are of greyish white lime-
stone, in thin strata dipping very slightly to the southward, and
are perpendicular or overhanging. At the extremities of the
points the cliffs are rounded by tlic action of the waves and
ahnosphcrc so as to resemble towers, which resemblance is ren-
tlercd stnnigcr by the nuisonry-like appearance of the rock. The
trees are of diminutive growth.

From Cape Robert to Table Head, a distaiicc of 19 miles to TMe H,a,l.
the sonth-caHtward, tlie const is broken into small bays, witli
sliingle beach ami small streams between high her.dlaiids, trr-
mniating in ]>erpeiidiculi»r cliffs, the bases of •.«iiuli are waslied
by the sea. None oi thus;.' luiys afford good anchorage, Tal)lc

M ■■

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

De»:riplioH of
AnlicoHli,
East Coait.

Fox Point.
Fox Bay.

Stream and
lAtke,

Godin'a House,

Granicus
wrecked.

Reef Point.

Maris fcr
South iieef.

North Iieef.

Fiix Hay .In-
choriige.

From Ihtnct to
KhhI t'lifje.

Anchorage,

Head is rendered remarkable by the hill from whence it derives
its name, and which rises immediately from the summit of
the cliffs.

Fox Point is 4 miles further to the south-eastward, and much
lower than Table Head. Fox Bay, which is a little less than
2 miles to the southward of Fox Point, is about 1 mile wide
and deep, with sandy beach at its head, where there is a con-
siderable stream issuing from a small lake. Boats may enter
the outlet of this lake at high water. The house and store of
M. Godin are on the N.W. side of the head of the Bay, and are
the scenes of the dreadful sufferings and melancholy fate of the
crew and passengers of the ship Granicus, wrecked on this coast
in November, 1 828, and who all perished from want of food, after
enduring the most horrible misery before the following 8])ring.

Rkef Point, of very low limestone, is the southern point of
Fox Bay, from which a reef of flat hmestone, covered with only a
few feet of water, runs out to the distance of fully 1^ miles.
There is a depth of 10 fathoms close off the end of this reef, so
that it is extremely dangerous. To be sure of clearing it to the
north-eastward a vessel should not be brought nearer by the lead
than n or 18 fathoms ; or if any of the land to the north-westward
of Table Head be open clear of it, she will pass in safety.

From the northern point of Fox Bay, which is a cliff of
moderate height, another reef runs out more than half a mile to
the south-eastward. A point of the southern reef, before men-
tioned, extends to the northward in such a way as to overlap the
reef off the northern point, leaving an entrance from the north-
eastward between the two only a quarter of a mile wide, and 13
feet deep at low water. Inside there is a space half a mile wide
from 2 fathoms to 2 fathoms, and with 16 feet in the middle over
muddy bottom. A wind from E.byN., or E. N.E., blows right
into tlie Hay ; but I am told that the sea docs not roll in, but in
heavy weather breaks on the reefs and in the entrance. This
account I believe to be correct, and that small vessels would be
perfectly safe there during the summer months.

Between Fox Bay and East Ciipe, the coast is of limestone
cliflB 100 foct ill height, bold and free from danger. Between
Cape Sand-Top and East Cape vesceis may anchor with nil
wcKtirly wiiuis in frouj l(i to 20 fathoms, over lino sand, at a
distance of 1 mile from tlie shore

ANTICOSTI ISLAND.

ff of

lie to

nien-

[» the

lortli-

nd 13

wide

over

right

Hit in

This

lid 1)0

?Btonc
twi'cn
h nil

at :i

41. Tlie tides and currents around Anticosti are so irregular Cmrwi/* an</
that I can add very little to that which has been already stated ,,-^oy^„^,-.
(art. 17 and 23.) """''

I have seen the stream run along the land for a whole day at the
rate of a mile ])er hour, in either direction, without any apparent
cause, and altogether regardless of the change of tide. At other
times I have found the tides regular in shore. Under these
circumstances it is evident that the set of the stream, at any
time or place, cannot be reckoned upon with certainty.

However, in addition to my previous remarks, I may observe
that there is usually very little stream in any direction on the
north coast from White Cliff south-eastward to Table Head.
From the latter to East Cape, on the contrary, there is very
frequently a stream from the northward, running at a rate
varying from a half to one knot. In one or two instances I
have seen this stream commence and end with the flood tide, so
that I have been led to muigine a cojuicxion between them ; and,
if this be the case, it may arise from the circumstance of its being
higli water tuiiiier ^n the north coast, up as high as the Es-
quimaux Islands, tiiaii at the cast point of Anticosti. Tiie waters
having thus attained a higher level to the northward may, in
consequence. How to the southward. On the other hand it nmst be
mentioned tliat I have observed this stream during tlie ebb tide.

It frequently hapjiens that, when this current tV.im the north-
ward is running, another from the W. N. W. coni*^!- .long the
south coast, in which case they m<'et nt the reef it' Ileulh
Point, and cause a great ripple or irregular breaking -a When
this has been observed by »i» there has been iimmlly a fresh
breeze along the land on either side of the island ; the wind Siirlherly and
on the north side of the island being from tlie uuiih or N.byE., iiimhrnreioff
whilst that along the south side was W. N. W. I have ^"'' ^"l>*<
seen both these winds blowing a snuirt double-reefed topsail
bree/e at the same tin\e, and for a whole day together, and vet
never meet round the east end of the island, wliieh is nowhere
jnoie than '200 feet in iieigiit. Helween the two v '.nds there was
It triangular space of eiilm and light balHing airs: the base of this itn^t^eroun
triangle extended i.-otn Heath I'oint to East Caiic, and its aiicx '"!/"•"'/»/''"«
from .'i to 8 miles to the eastward of the islniid. I mention tiiis «'•■"'
cireniiistanee because it would be dangerous for a vvs'h'I to stand
into the eulni space helween the two rtinils, wlierc the high eruts

.J;

76 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Antkosti. sca and constantly changing light airs might leave her at the
mercy of the current, in no small danger of being set on the
Heath Point Reef.

I have been for hours endeavouring to get out of this sin
gular space, trimming sails to light airs, which did not remain
steady to any one point for a minute of time ; and I was finally,
in spite of every effort to the contrary, carried over the reef by
the current, seeing the rocks, distinctly under the vessel's bottom,
but fortunately drawing too little water to strike upon them.

•12

GASPE TO CAPE CHATTE.

CHAPTER V.

THE SOUTH COAST OF THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWK^iNCE
FROM UASPIE TO GREEN ISLAND.

42. Preliminary Remarks. — 43. Cape Despair and Leander Shoal. Bona*
venture Island. Perce Rock. Mai Bay. Point Peter, and Flat Island.
—44. 6asp£ Bay. Cape Gasp^, and Flower-pot Rock. Seal Rocks.
Douglas Town, and Roadstead. River St. John. — 45. Gasp£ Harbour.
The N. W. and S. W. arms. The Basin.— 46. Tides, Currents. Winds,
and Soundings. — 47. The South Coast from Cape Gasp6 to Cape
Chatte. Cape Rozier. Griffin Cove. Great Fox River. The Great
Pond. Magdalen River. Mont Louis River. St. Anne and Chatte
Rivers. Cape Chatte. — 48, Cape Chatte to Barnaby Island. River
Matan. Little Metis. Grand Aletis. Cock Cove, and Mount Camille.
Father Point. Rimousky Road. Barnaby Island. — 49. Barnaby Is-
land to the Razade Islets. Cape Arignole ; its Bays and Reef. Old
Bic Harbour. Bic and Bicquette Islands: their Reefs and the Alcido
Rock. Anchorages at Bic. Tides. Edge of the South Bank.— fiO. The
Kazade Islets. Basque Island. Apple Island. Green Island, Light-
house, Reef, Anchorage, and Tides.

42. Pursuing the system which I have hitherto followed of
describing the coasts from cast to west, in the order in which
they would be seen by a stvanger on a ^oyagc to Canada, I shall
commence my remarks ai>d directions for the south coast of the
Gulf and Estuary, from the high land of Ga«i)t5 ; beginning with
Cape Despair, at the entrance of the Bay of Chaleur, and leaving
all to the southward of a line from thence to the island of St.
Paid for a separate part of this book ; not only for the sake
of a more distinct geographical arrangement and facility of
reference, but also because tlie Eouthcrn parts of the Gulf are
obviously coiniccted with another line of navigation.

In the last Chapter I gave full descriptions of the appearance
and nature of the coai.ts, l)ccause the infornuition whicli I con-
veyed was often new, and because it was necessary to describe
clearly thos<c objects which were to be referred to as natural
beacons for guiding tlie nuiriuer clear of the nuiMcrous dangers
with whicii thoise coasts and it<lunds abound. Uut in thi:^ Chapter

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

I shall more freely refer him to the charts for the appearance of
the coast, so as to avoid swelling these remarks to an incon-
venient size. Besides which, the dangers are few, and for the
most part of small importance.

Cape Despair. 43. Cape Despair, the N. E. point of the Bay of Chaleur,
consists of red sandstone cliffs, without beach, and of a moderate
height above the sea.

Leander S/mai, Leander Shoal bears from Cape Despair S. S. E., dis-
tant rather more than 1 J miles. It is about a quarter of a mile
in diameter, from 4 fathoms to 4 fathomn, and has 16 feet
least water on one spot, which, however, it is very difficult to
find. It is a rocky shoal, and there is a clear passage between

Outer Passage, it and the cape. The leading marks are as follow : the line of
the White Head, in one with the inner or N.W. end of Perce
Rock, passes just outside of the shoal, in 'J fathoms; therefore
the whole of Perce Rock, well open to the eastward of the White

Inner Passage. Head, will lead clear outside of all. From a half to the whole of
the Perc^ Rock, shut in behind the White Head, will lead clear
betwe«:n the Leander and Cape Despair.

BoNAVENTURE IsLAND has bold and perpendicular cliffs of
red sandstone and conglomerate on all sides excepting the west.
These cliffs, in some parts, attain an elevation of 250 feet above
' the sea, and their ledges and fissures arc the habitation of in-

numerable gannets. From the west side, shoal water extends to
the distance of a quarter of a mile, and there is anchorage in
15 fathoms between it and White Head; b\it the riding is
insecure and heavy in consequence of the swell, which, in bad
weather, rolls round the island. The channel between Bona-
venture Island and the Perce Rock is about 1^^ miles wide, and
free from danger.

Percf Rock. The Perce Rock is 288 feet high, precipitous all round, and

bold tr v'^awiiMi It is narrow, and about one-thirdof a mile long
in a S. ; 1. direction, being an outlier to the range of ditl's on the
S. W. > It; of Mai Bay, i;. is rendered remarkable by two large
holes wiiich have been perforated through it by the waves,
and through one of which a boat can pass at high water. Between
this rock and the White Head is the Biy of Perce, having a reef
at tlie <listance of Imlf a mile to the S.W. of the Perce Rock, ami
extending out nearly half u mile from tiic shore, as will be seen

GASPE TO CAPE CUATTE.

Dim-
and

in the chart. Small vessels engaged in the fisheries anchor on
cither side of this reef with winds off the land, but it is a dan-
gerous place, and not to be recommended for large vessels.

The town of Perce, principally inhabited by persons engaged
in the fisheries, occupies the shores of the Bay, and Mont
Perc«5, or, as it is sometimes called, the Table Roulante, rises,
immediately from it, to the height of 1230 feet above the sea.
This mountain is very remarkable, and can be seen at sea from a
distance of 40 miles. A reef connects the Perct? Rock with Point
Percrf, and off the N. E. side of the latter small vessels anchor
with westerly winds. There is generally a regular tide of flood
and ebb, of about a knot, between Bonaventure Island and the
mainland : the flood tide running to the S.W. round Cape Despair
and up the Bay of Chaleur ; and the ebb in the contrary direc-
tion. Two or three miles outside, or to the eastward of Bonaventure
Island, the current to the southward out of the St. Lawrence, will
often be found running regardless of the tides. (Art. 17.)

Mal Bat is between 5 and 6 miles wide, by 4 miles deep,
and entirely open to the S. E. On its S. W. side, and under the
Perc^ Mountains, there are magnificent cliffs 666 feet in perpen-
dicular height above the sea. Its N. E. side has low cliffs of
sandstone, with occasional beaches. A fine broad sandy beach
extends right across the head of the Bay, and incloses a shallow
lagoon. A considerable river, and several small streams, dis-
charge their waters into the lagoon, which has an outlet in
the N. W. corner of the Bay, called the Tickle, admitting
boats at high water and in fine weather. There is anchorage all
round the shores of Mal Bay, but as a hcav;' sea and thick fog
often precede a S. E. gale, and render it dilficult for a vessel to
beat out, it cannot be recommended. There is an open cove or
small bay on the N.E. side, in which a vessel can be occasionally
moored close to the shore, and in 3 fathoms water, but this is
of no use for the general purposes of navigation.

Point Peteh is the N. E. point of Mal Bay, and the south
point of Gaspe Bay ; it is of low sandstone, and thickly covered
with the white houses of the fishermen. Flat Island lies about
400 fatlioms ofl" Point Peter; and is small, low, and of sand-
stone. Tlicrc is a clear channel between the islund and tlie
l»oint, but no gooil anchorau,e ; for although vessels occasionally

Pirci' Bay and

Perce Tnwn,
Mont Perce.

Tides.

Outside Cur-
rent.

Mal Hay.

Perci' Moun-
tains.

The Tickle.

Pcinl Peter.
Flat Island,

'jS'l^mi^^

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Giispa Bay,

if I

S. fV. side of
the Bay.

Cape Gaspv,

F/nwerpot
Rock.

anchor to the northward of the island, yet the ground is so
foul, that there is great danger of losing an anchor from its
hooking the rocks.

From Flat Island to Cape Gaspe, across the mouth of Gaspt?
Bay, the course is N. N. E., *l^ miles.

44. The admirable bay of GASpfe possesses advantages which
may hereafter render it one of the most important places, in a
maritime point of view, in these seas. It contains an excellent
outer roadstead off Douglas Town ; a harbour at its head, capable
of holding a numerous fleet in perfect safety ; and a basin where
the largest ships might be hove down and refitted.

The course up this Bay from Flat Island to the end of Sandy-
beach Point, which forms the harbour, is N. by W. h W. rather
more than 16 miles. From the Flower-pot Rock to the same
point, the course is N. W. J N., and distance nearly 11 J
miles.

From Point Peter the land rises in undulations to the chain of
mountains about 5 miles inland from the south-western shore of
the Bay. These mountains, in some points, attain an elevation
of 1500 feet above the level of the sea, and sweeping round Mai
Bay, terminate with the Perce Mountains, before mentioned. The
south-western shore of GasptS Bay, from Point Peter to Douglas
Town, a distance of 12 miles, presents a succession of precipitous
headlands ; the cliffs, of bituminous shale and sandstones, being, in
their highest parts, 200 feet above the sea. Shoal water extends
nearly a third of u mile from the elite's, and vessels beating should
beware of this, since the water slioals .'oo rapidly to allow of much
warning by the lead.

Cape Gaspe is an extremely remarkable headland, of limestoni.,
having on its N. E. side a uiagnificeut range of clitTs, which rise
from the sea to the height of 692 feet. Flower-pot Rock
lies close off the S. E. extremity of the Ciipe, anil is also a very
remarkable object; the base of it being worn so small by the
waves, that it appears astonishing that it can resist their force, or
the pressure o"the ic( . It is sometimes called the " Ship's Head,"
at others the " Old Wtinian," by the ris<liernieu, and is so bold,
that vessels may haul round it into the Bay within the distance of
a (piarlcr of a mile. Boats may pass between it and the Cupc
when there is no isurf. The limestone of Cape Gaspe dips to the

GASPE TO CAPE CHATTE.

S, W., 80 that the cliffs within the Bay are very much lower than Gas;-t Ruy.
those on the outside of the Cape previously mentioned.

Tiie N. E. side of the Jiav is thiclclv covered witli the houses of -y- ^'- *""' "f

^ ■' the Haij.

the fishermen for a distance of 5 miles within Cape Gaspt? ; the
principal fishing estahllshments belonging, as at Perc^, to Jersey
merchants. There is an anchorage with good holding ground, but
in not less than 17 fathoms, except within a quarter of a mile of
the shore, abreast of St. George Cove, Grande Greve, and Little
Gaspe. The wurd Cove is, however, inappropriately applied to
any part of the shore between Grande Grfeve and the Cape, for
though there arc fishing establishments there, there are no coves
whatever. This side is bold, and free from danger in every parti
with the exception of the Seal Rocks, which are the only detached
danger in the Bay.

The Seal Rocks are 6^ miles w ithin Cape Gasptf, one mile S. E. Sen! Rucks.
by S. from Cape Bruit?, and half a mile off-shore. [The length of
this lecf from 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms, and in a direction parallel
(0 the shore, is half a mde : and its breadth a quarter of a mile.
The least Mater is 4 feet, and there are 3i fathoms between it
and the sliore. When on the outer edge of the Seal Rocks, Cajie
Brul^ is in one with the next cliffy point up the bay, bearing
N.35 W. by compass, and this only mark is sufficient for the
safety of vessels beating, for the rocks are out of the way with
fair winds.

At Grande Greve, 3^ miles within Cape Gaspe, the ridge Grande Gn've
of land dips and narrows, so that there is a portage across it,
leading to the settlements at Capo Rozier. On the N.W. side
of the portage a range of mountains commences, and they con-
tinue along the N.E. side of the bay, and the N.W. arm, till
they are lost to view in the interior of the country. Opposite
to the basin of Gaspe, they rise to the height of 1.500 feet above
the sea.

Douglas Town is a villat'c of fishermen and farmers, standing i)„i„jias Town.
on the rising gnnuid at tiie south side of the entrance of the river
St. John : its position in relation to Point Peter has been nlready
mentioned. The water is very deep in the outer parts of the bay,
Ijcing from 30 to upwards of (50 fathoms, over nuul bottom ; but
on approachmir Douglas the depth decreases regularly to the
Huchornge.

1
V

GULF OF Sr. LAWRENCE.

Cape Haldi
mand.

111.'

Gnspt Har-

liiiur.

if.:' ■ I

Oaspi Bay. The roadstead off the town of Douglaa is extensi\ , vessels may
Di.iijlas lioad. anchor in any part of it, and in any depth from 11 to 6 fathoms,
over sand and clay bottom ; but the best berth is in 7 fathome,
with the entrance of the River St. John bearini; N, W. by W, li
miles. The course and distance from Ca])e Gaspt5 to this an-
chorage is N. W. by W. 11 miles. There is, however, no shelter
from winds between S. E. by E. and S. S. E. which blow directly
into the bay, and roll in a hem y swell. The riding is, neverthe-
less, mucli less heavy on such occasions than might be expected;
and, as the ground is excellent for holding, a vessel may safely
anchor here during the summer months.
JVuter. Water may be obtained by ascending the River St. John to the

River St. John, islands, a distance of 2 miles. In the spring of the year there is
often 9 feet of water in the entrance of this river, which is between
2 points of sand, as will be seen in the chart: and there are 12
feet of water in the narrow channel for some distance within.
At the islands the river becomes shallow and rapid.

Cape Haldimand, 2 miles northward of Douglas, is a bluff
point of cliff, and the south-eastern termination of the range
of hills which separates the harbour, basin, and S. W. arm, from
the valley of the River St. John.

45. From the N.E. side of Cape Haldimand, Sandy-beach
Point rinis out to the northward, and forms the Harbour of
Gfispe. It is a very low and narrow point of sand, convex to
f^^uaward, on which side the water deepens gradually from high
water mark to the depth of 3 fathoms, a distance of nearly half a
niile : an the inside it is as bold as a wall. Thus this spit, appa-
rently so fraeile, Ijecomes a natural dam or breakwater, upon
which the heavy swell, which often rolls into the bay, can produce
no effect, expending its strength in the shoal water, before reach-
ing the beach. The water deepens immediately outside of 3
fathoms, all along the outside of Sandy-beach Point, and also
otf its north extremity ; so that it is both dangerous and difficult
to beat in or out of the harbour at night ; the lead giving little
or no warning.
Peninsula. To the northward of Sandy-beach Point, at the distance of

nearly a mile, is the Peninsula, wliich is a low sand, covered
with spruce trees, and it has several whale sheds near its west
point. Between the shoal water in the bay to the eastward

GASPE TO CAPE CHATTE.

of the Peninsula, and that which extends from the extremity of a^ispe //((»■-
Sandy-beach Point, is the narrowest part of the entrance to the "" '
harbour, which is 420 fathoms wide from 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms,
and upwards of 1 1 fathoms deep in the centre.

To run into the Harbour of Gaspe attend to the following direc- Directions for
tions and remarks. On the N. E. side of the N. W. arm, there *" ''""^'
is a wooded point with low clay cliff, 2f miles above the Penin-
sula. This point appears as if it were the extreme on that -ide,
when seen over the end of the Pf^uiusula fm a vessel approach-
ing the entrance of the harbour, ai ' ullcd Point Panard.
Now this point (seen over the Pei ul; ), ii^ one with the
inner or north side of the whale sheds he mentioned, is the
mark for the northern extreme of tlie t; a vd' Sandy-beach
Point. The extremity of the spruce trees is as far witliin the
whale sheds, as these last are from the sandy extremity of the
Peninsula. On the inner side of Sandy-beach Point, and near
to its junction with the mainland, stands a wooden windmill.
Keep Point Panard in one with that extremity of the spruce
trees on the Peninsula, bearing N. 47 W., until the windmill,
just mentioned, comes in one with the west or inner side of
the end of Sandy-beach Point, bearing S. J W., when you may
haul into the anchorage under the point, or steer for the basin, as
may be desired.

When beating in, tack by the lead from the N. E. side of the B^aiini/ m,
bay, and in the board towards Sandy-beach Point, put the helm
down the instant the marks for leading in, just given, come
in one.

At night, when neither Sandy-beach Point, nor the Penin- at niijhi.
sula can be seen, it becomes rather a difficult affair to tack
a vessel into the harbour. The only guide then is the lead.
There should be a hand in each cliains, one heaving when the
other cries the soundings. Soundings should be first struck on
the N. E. side of the bay, about 2 miles outside of the entrance of
the harbour, and the edge of the shoal water on that side should
be followed, in from 5 to 7 fathoms, until you judge, by the dis-
tance run, and the change which takes place in the direction of
the edge of the bank which you are running upon, that you are
approaching the Peninsula and have passed Sandy-beach Point,
and can in consequence venture to haul to the souihward into
the anchorage. To form this judgment accurately is the dilfi-

ci 2

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

Li|Z8

■" ISA

u lii

140

|25
122

12.0

||L2g 1 U |i.6

•_ ►

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

.«i^S?

33 WIST MAIN STRUT

WnSTIR.N.Y. I4SI0

(71*)t79-4»03

^J^^

Ci^

.i^

->^*

^.^

Ci^

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

it,

W-

J*'

I ;

Gaipi Har- cult part of the process, and as to fail in this would prob.i!;!y"
cause the loss of the vessel, if the usual heavy swell should be
rolling into the bay with S. E. winds, I recommend a vessel rather
to trust to her anchors off Douglas Town than to make the attempt*
In case of a vessel which has lost her anchors, the directions
which I have given may prove of use. Within Sandy-beach
Point, that is in the Harbour of Gaspt?, the shelter is complete
from all winds ; the bottom is mud, and the depth nowhere
exceeds 11^ fathoms. *

Having now given directions to enable the seaman to take his
vessel into a place of perfect security, from which he may proceed
to the basin, or to any other part of the harbour, with the as-
sistance of the chart, or of a pilot, I shall not swell these remarks
by a minute description of the interior of the harbour, which the
* chart renders unnecessary, and which is not in any way essential

to safety.

N. H'.Arm. I shall merely adtl that the harlwur is divided into the N.W.

and S. W. arms. The N. W. arm has deep water for nearly
3 miles above the Peninsula, and continues navigable for keeled
boats about 3 miles further, where tbo principal river of the har-
bour enters the arm between Marsh and Meadow Islands.

s. ir. .Inn: The entrance of the S.W. arm is about 1 80 fathoms wide, and

between two sandy points, but the navigable channel is contracted
by shoals on cither side to about 60 fathoms ; and 5 fathoms of
water can be carried in. The deep water part of the S. W. arm,
which continues for three-quarters of a mile within the entrance,

/W/»o/fr(M|)('. is called the Biisin of Gaspt5; it has a depth of from 5 to 9
fathom?, over a mud bottom, and is sufBcicntly capacious to hold
a very great number of vessels as securely as in a dock. Boats
can ascend this arm by a narrow channel, between shoals, about
3 miles, a» in the N.W. arm, and the navigation, for all but
canoes or flat-bottomrd bouts, is terminated in the same manner,
liy shallow channels between Marsh and Meadow Islands; above
this part of the river it becomes contracted and rapid, and the water
fresh. A nniall rivulet in the bay, on the inside of the south
point of the entrance of the basin, is the must convenient watering
place in the harbour. Tlie Collector of Customs, ::ml the prin-
cipal families, reside on the shores of the basin. Most of these
families, as well as those of the N.W. arm and the harbour
generally, are furmert<, but soverul of them arc al8<» engaged in

GASPE TO CAPE CHATTE.

probably
should be
Bsel rather
le attempt,
directions
ndy-beach
complete
nowhere

) take his
ly proceed
;h the as-
le remarks
which the
y essential

the N.W.
for nearly
for keeled
f the har-
Is.

wide, and

:ontractcd

athoms of

\V. arm,

entrance,

5 to 9

us to hold

Boats

als, about

>r uU but

manner,

i; above

the water

the south

watering

the prin-

t of these

harbour

igagcd in

the whale fishery, which they prosecute in small schooners. The Ga»/ii Fi»h-
cod fishery is carried on by the people of the bay outside, for the
most part in connexion with the Jersey merchants. The great
majority of the fishermen are either from Jersey, or descended
from the people of that island whose language they retain.

46. There are regular but weak streams of flood and ebb in the Tides.
entrances of the harbour and basin. For the time of high water,
and rise of the tide, see the Table at the end of the book. In the
bay the streams of the tides ai-e so irregular, that I can say
nothing certain respecting them. They are, however, usually
almost imperceptible, excepting near the shores, and even there
they are so weak a.^ to be of little or no consequence to a
vessel.

The current down the St. Lawrence runs strongly past Flower- Outside Cat-
pot Rock over towards Flat Island, especially in the ebb tide, ' '
which often increases its rate to 2 knots, and this should be re-
membered by vessels making the bay with a northerly wind.
This current, when it meets the swell which so often prevails from nuikes u mis-
the south and S. E., causes a high, short, and breaking sea, all'
along the coast from above Cape Rozier to Cape Gasps', and ex-
tending across the entrance of Gaspe Buy. When the wind is
light, a vessel becomes quite unmanageable in this sea, and it is
extremely dangerous to be caught in it, clo»e to t^.e shore, by a
light breeze on the land.

In line summer weather there is often a sea-breeze blowinij, ;«■'(»»('/ /««(/
right up the bay from about 9 a.m. until sunset. At such times
there is generally a light land-breeze at night down the army,
which often extends for several miles out into the bay. In tho
outer part of the bay, however, it will generally be found to be
calm, even at times when a fresh breeze is blowing outside Cape
Gaxpe and Point Peter. The wind at sea on such occasions is
generally from the S. \V.

The soundings off this part of the coast will be seen in our Suumtwus,
charts for the first time ; they will prove of very great use to ves-
sels ruiuiiug up in foijgy weather, and hiul they been previously
known, might have saved many vessels. We had an oppttrtunity rilhiufun/'ed-
af judging of this last 8i«rinij, whin a large ship, full oreuiigrants, '"^ '*""•
ran stem on to Whale It<lan<l in Gaspe Bay. She was under all sail
before a moderate S. K. wind, in a thick fog, ami steering N. W. :
from which it appccir!* tlial ilie nnisl h.ivi luen runuine. in buuiul-

' J

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Cape Gatpi' to
Cape Challe.

Sumdingt. ings from 20 to 40 fathoms, for at least 4 leagues, and, probably,
for 3 hours before she struck. No lead was hove, the existence
of the soundings being unknown. The vessel was conceived to
be well to the northward, and, consequently, to be steering a safe .
course. One cast of the lead would have dispelled this delusion,
and might have saved the vessel. Let this be a warning to
seamen.
RoKhg Vaichen In the prolongation of the line of Cape Gaspt5 nearly, there are
"•^^''/'*^"*'"'' several rocky patches frequented by the fishermen. They all
lie in the same direction from Flower-pot Rock, S. S.E. IE.
The first is a small patch with 8 fathoms least water, the
second hes 16 fathoms, and the third 10 fathoms. Their dis-
tance from the Rock are seven-eighths, 1 J, and 13 miles respec-
tively. There is deep water and irregular soundings between
them, and the last mentioned is on the banks of soundings which

1 have already alluded to, as lying off this coast.
47. The bold and high coast between Cape Gaspe and Cape

Chatte, a distance of 117 miles, will require only a brief notice,
as it is free from dangers and destitute of harbours. The
mountains everywhere approach the shore, which is steep and
rocky, displaying cliffs, often of great height, and without beach.
After heavy rains, waterfalls, which are not to be seen at other
. times, descend from great heights, and small bays, with sandy
beach and rapid streams at their heads, occur occasionally ; yet
these features arc not generally so strongly marked as to enable a
stranger to make out one part of this coast from another with
facility.

Ciipe liuzier. Cape Roziek, which is nearly 7 miles N. JE. from Cape
Gospt?, is low, and of grcywacke and slate rocks. The shoal
water docs not extend off it above one-third of a mile, but in the
bay to the southwai it, at the distance of 1| miles, there is a

reef which runs out -u a mile from the shore. Vesiiels may find
shelter under Cape Rozier from N. W. winds, but the ground is
not very good, and the easterly swell that frequently rolls in,
rettders it a dangerous anchorage. There are fishing establish-
ments on Cape Rozier, and in its vicinity.

Cnffin Cuve. Ghikkin Cove and River are 6J miles N. N. W., nearly, from
Cupe Rozier, A small bay here affords shelter to the boats uf the
fishermen, whose Iioubch will be seen around it. There are from

2 tu 3 futhuutb of wulcr in this buy, over suady bottom. It is of

GASF£ TO CAPE CHATTE.

no use to Hhipping, except to obtain supplies of water, wood, and, ^^ , ^,

occasionally, iregh provisions.

Great Fox Rivkr is llj miles N.N. W. nearly from Cape Great Fox
Rozier. It is a mere brook which enters a small bay about three-
quarters of a mile wide, and half a mile deep. Off each point of
the bay there are reefs, which diminish the breadth of the
entrance to less than a quarter of a mile, and afford shelter to
boats, and to very small schooners, in from 2 to 2 jf fathoms, over
a bottom of fine dark sand. Round the head of the bay there is a
fine sandy beach. Outside the reefs, which extend only a very
short distance to seaward, there are !.*>, 18, and 24 fathoms, over
a bottom of sand and broken shells, at the distance of a quarter,
half, and 1 mile respectively. In fine summer weather a vessel
might anchor off this place and obtain water, wood, and supplies
of fresh provisions ; but it is otherwise of no use to shipping.
Seven families of fishermen and farmers resided here when I
visited it in 1829, and had plenty of cattle, sheep, and swine.

Great Pond is a small creek which affords shelter only to OretU Pond.
boats, and will be known by the bouses and stages of the
fishermen. It is 16 miles N. W. j^ N. from Great Fox River, and
there are no more houses, along the coast, till we arrive at the
River St. Ann.

The next place worthy of notice is the Magdalen River, Afoffdalen
which is 24 miles from Great Pond, in a N.W. 4W. direction ^^'
nearly. The mouth of this river is on the N. W. side of a
sandy bay, and close under Cape Magdalen its N. W. point, which Cap* Mag.
is rocky, with cliffs of moderate height, and juts out a very short '
distance from the range of hills which forms the coast line. A
reef of rocks, which dry in part at low water, extends from Cape
Magdalen, about 200 fathoms to the S. E., parallel to the coast,
and shelters the entrance of the river from the northerly winds.
The river is 30 yards wide at the entrance, and 1 feet deep at low
water; within, for a very short distance, there arc 10 feet over a
clean bottom of fine sand. Further up, the river becomes shallow
and rapid, winding its way through a romantic valley between the
mountains. Thirteen feet of water can be carried into this river
at spring tides, su that it is a considerable stream, and is occa-
bionally visited by scliooncrs from 30 to 80 tons, which warp in
wlien the sea is sniuoth and tlie weather fine. Tlic l)ay is not
deep, being merely a gentle curve with a sandy beach for about a

daten.

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE,

^^1

Tides,

Mnnt-Ijouis
River,

Mottl-Louis
Jhf,

Jnchorage off mile to the S. E. of the rivor. Vessels may anchor here in 1
River. ** fathoms, over a bottom of sand, fine gravel, and broken shellsy
at the distance of three-quarters of a mile from the sandy beach,
and from the N. W. point bearing W. N. W. The shelter is froni
W. N. W., round by S. W., and S. to E. S. E., but it is only a fine
weather anchorage, which may be of use to vessels wanting wood
and water.

During two occasions, on which I anchored here, I observed a
regular alternation of the stream of flood and ebb. The flood ex-
tended about 1^ mile from the shore, running 1 knot, and at the
line of junction with the almost constant downward current there
was a strong ripple.

MoNT-Louis River is 16 miles further along the coast to
the W. N. W. It is a much smaller stream than the Magdalen
River, being 20 yards wide at the entrance, and capable only of
admitting a small boat at low water. There are 7 feet in the
entrance at high water, and for a short distance within. The
bmall bay, with sandy beach at its head, into which this river falls,
is a mile wide, and nearly three-quarters of a mile deep. Ves-
sels may anchor in it during fine weather, in from 8 to 16 fathoms,
mud bottom, nearer the west than the east side. The holding
ground is excellent ; but since a vessel ought not to be more than
300 fathoms distant from the west side of the bay, there is not
much room to work out, and therefore it would be dangerous for
a large vessel to be caught there by a wind on the land. Small
vessels, or ships having occasion to stop for a few hours for wood
or water, may safely anchor there in fine weather, and will find
shelter in all winds, from VV. N. W. round by S to E. S. E. Mont-
Louis River may be thus recognized. In a vessel off this part of
the coast, four well marked openings will be seen in the high land
in a space of 10 miles. The eastern ojiening is Grnudc Matte
River, the next westward is Mont-Louis River, and the two others
Claude and Pierre Rivers, None of them affords good anchorage
excc))ting Mont Louis. On niiproncliing near the shure, an atten-
tion to the cliffV, shown in the chart, will point out Mont-Louis
River beyond a doubt.
Cape Si, Anne. Them is notliing worthy of remark for 'J'j miles further west-
ward to Cape St. Anne, after wliicli the numntai.is hcgin to recede
a little from the shore, and to tliininisli in height. Theie is,
however, another range of mountain!* in the rear of the coast, us will

Four openitiija
HI the Iwid,

GASPE TO CAPE CHATTE.

be seen in the chart. These are the St. Anue Mountain?, which si. jnne ' <

can be seen from a distance of 80 or 90 miles, under favourable <"'"'""*• ,^._(

circumstances ; and their highest peak, which is about 14 miles

behind Cape Chatte, is 3970 feet in height above the sea.

These are therefore the highest mountains in British North

America.

St, Anne River, which is 6 miles west of the high cape of St. /inne
the same name, and 10 miles east of Cape Chatte, can be
entered by small schooners at high water. It flows into the
sea through the sandy beach of a bay which affords very indif-
ferent anchorage, the depth of water being too great, excepting at
a less distance from the shore than would be considered prudent
for any but small vessels. Scyeral families reside here, from
whom supplies of provisions can in general be obtained, and also
from those at Cape Chatte River.

Chatte River, 2\ miles eastward of Cape Chatte, is much Chuiie lUver.
smaller than the River St. Anne, and enters a much smaller
sandy bay, affording no anchorage for ships. The east point of ••'

this bay, 2 miles eastward of the river, is a low spit with a reef off Heef.
it half a mile. Small coasting schooners occasionally anchor
under it in westerly winds.

Cape Chatte, when seen from the eastward or westward, so Cape ckuiie.
that it appears as the extreme point, can easily l)e distinguished,
being a round hill separated from, but of less lieight than the laud
behind it.

The long line of coast, which has formed the subject of this Foyg ilaiiyeiuu$
article, and been found so free from danger, is nevertheless to be ,.o„,"*
guarded against in dark foggy nights, since the water is, c\ cry-
where along it, too dee\) to all'ord sufficient warning by the lead
for the safety of vesEcls. The t-hore along its whole extent,
excepting in some of the bays, is of highly inclined slate and
greywackc rocks, which wo\ild cut through a vessel's bottom in a
very slioit time ; and such is the impracticable nature of the
country, that those who miglit escape to bhorc would run great
risk of perishing from want l^-forc they could reach a settlement.

48. Tlic south coast of the Estuary from Cupc Chatte to Matau, Cuiie Chutte to*
is straight, bold, and of the same rocks as that which has Iweii ' "'""'
described in the lust article. Althoiigh not a higli coast, it is
btill (if consideiablu deviitioii above tlu' uiii, and liic St. Anne
Mountaiuii coiiliuuc in llic rear of il, at tla' dibtaucu of about .'>

•'■'■]

ti' '

Pap» of MatoH,

Capuchin Cove.

SeUlemenl*
commence.

Malan River.

Tidei.

Morning Tide*
higher than the
Evening Tidei.

Entrance of
Matau River.

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

leagues, to their south-westera termination, which is 15 miles
south of Cape Balance, the last being 25 miles westward of Cape
Chatte. Several detached hills will he seen further to the west-
ward, which are also at a considerable distance from the coast.
Two of these have been named the Paps of Matan, though they
can with difficulty be made out when bearing S. W. ; on any other
bearing it is still less easy to distinguish them, but they are of
no use except to enable a vessel, obtaining a sight of the land,
to judge how far she is up the Estuary.

Capuchin Cove, and another cove on the west side of Cape
Michaux, afford shelter to boats. Settlements commence at Little
Matan, a small stream 3 miles eastward of the River Matan.

The River Matan is a fine stream 33 miles W. }^ S. from
Cape Chatte. It is reported to have its source in a lake of con-
siderable dimensions, about 60 miles, following the stream,
inland. The depth of water over the bar is usually 4 feet at low
water, and 15 at high water spring tides. The rise of the tides
is, however, very irregular, and although there is often 12 feet
at high water neap tides, yet I have seen as little as 10 feet.
The depth of water seems to depend so much upon the winds
which prevail in the Estuary, that it is impossible to calculate it
at any time exactly. In the last days of July the morning tides
rose 2 and 3 feet higher than the evening tides of the same day.
Easterly winds were observed to cause high tides, and westerly
winds the contrary.

The channel is very narrow, and there are several large boulder
stones in it, lying on the sand, which diminish the depth 2
feet, and are extremely dangerous when there is any swell. The
bar is continually shifting from the effects of gales of wind, so that
I can give no directions for sailing in. There are pilots residing
here, and no vessel should attempt the entrance without one.
The bar when I was there ran out in a circular form from the
east point of entrance, and was met so nearly by another point of
sand, running out from the small isolated cliff on the west point
of entrance, as to leave only a very narrow channel. The bar
dried at low water, and no part of it extended more than 300
fathoms outside the entrance of the river. Inside the bar the
entrance, between two sandy points, is not more than 30 fathoms
wide, and a very rapid current runs out during the ebb tide.
There is not room enough for a vessel to lie safely afloat inside,

CAPE CHATTE TO BIC.

but, nevertheless, considered as a tide harbour, it is a useful place
to coasting schooners, which ground at half tide on a good bottom of
mud and stones. To a vessel which had lost her anchors, or which
had received injury, this river would afford a place of refuge in
which she could be safely repaired and retitted. The sandy beach
extends about a third of a mile to the eastward of the entrance,
and incloses a large space dry at low water, with the exception of
the narrow and rapid channel of the river which is full of stones.
The tide ascends about a mile, to a rapid over a ledge of rocks,
above which the stream is swift, shallow, and navigable for canoes,
to the lake before mentioned.

Outside the bar there is anchorage in 5 fathoms half a mileo£f- Ouitr
shore, and in 10 fathoms a little further out, the bottom being of '*'"'*'**W^-
sand and clay.

Supplies of provisions can usually be obtained at this river; Supp/iei.
and it will be easily made out from a vecsel, since the entrance
shows plainly. The clifiy mound on the west side of the entrance,
and the buildings, will also serve to point it out.

Matan is the name of a seignory containing about 500 inha- JUatan Seig-
bitants, most of whom live by the combined means of fishing, '""^^'
farming, and piloting. The soil is good, and gives good crops
of wheat and other grain, excepting in bad seasons, which have
been very frequent of late years, and in which the crops some-
times totally fail.

The coast from Matan to Metis is low, rocky, vroodtd, un- Maim to Metu,
broken, and may be approached with care by the lead, the bank
of soundings becoming gradually wider as we proceed lv 'he
westward. (Art. 25.)

Little Metis Bay is 23 miles W. | S. nearly, from Matan. LiiUe MeiU
It is small and divided into two rocky coves, which are open to ''^'
the eastward and dry at low water.

Little Metis River, a small stream, is at the head of the l*ftl* MttU
southern cove. There r.re several buildings, and a fishing esta- ""'^*
blishraent on Metis Point, the outer point of the bay. A reef
which is very bold on its north side, runs out from this point
nearly three-quarters of a mile to the eastward, and enables small
vessels to remain at anchor, in 3 fathoms, over mud bottom, with
the wind as fur to the northward as N. W. Some of its rocks are
always above water. In this berth vessels lie midway between
the eastern cud of the reef, and a large Round Rock near the

.*,■

■iy 'i;

ill

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

i I

Gulf An-
vhoragi:

Round Rock.

Grand Metis
Bay.

Coek Cove.

shore on the S. E. side of the bay. Larger vessels may anchor
further out in 5 or 6 fathoms of water, but not in the stream of
the reef, where the ground is foul and rocky.

The east end of the reef may be passed by the lead in 4 fathoms,
or with the Round Rock bearing S. £., but large vessels had
better not bring it to bear to the eastward of S. S. E. This rock,
which is about IJ miles E. S.E. from the reef off the outer point
of the Bay, will serve to point out Little Metis to strangers. It
cannot be mistaken for Grand Metis with our charts, since there
is no resemblance in the shapes of the bays. Neither place can
be easily made out from a greater distance than 5 or 6 miles,
because the points are very low.

Grand Metis Bay is separated from Little Metis by Metis
Point. Grand Metis River, a small stream 5 miles westward of
Little Metis, is near the west end of the Bay, and is nearly dry
outside of the very narrow entrance at low water. The Bay is
rather more than 3 miles wide, and three-quarters of a mile deep ;
but it is all shoal. Small vessels may anchor in 3^ or 4 fathoms,
under its east point, close to the edge of the shoal water, and in
tolerable shelter from winds along the coast, but there is no shelter
for shipping. Nevertheless vessels lie here all the summer months
for the purpose of taking in timber. They are usually moored in
6 fathoms, at low water, over mud bottom, and with the river
bearing about S. S.W., distant IJ miles. In this position they are
half a mile from the 3 fathoms edge of the shoal water which extends
from the shore ; and as they are outside of the line joining the
points of the Bay, they are exposed to the prevailing winds along
the coast, and must ride very heavily at times. There is, how-
ever, seldom much sea with these winds so close in shore, and the
northerly winds seldom blow strong until September. After the
commencement of that month, I consider this a dangerous
anchorage, but at other times, and in fine weather, vessels may
safely anchor anywhere off the Bay in from 6 to 12 fathoms :
the bottom being everywhere good, and plenty of room to get
under weigh.

Cock Cove affords good anchorngc for schooners, in .3 fathoms
at low water, well sheltered from the winds along the coast. The
summit of Mount Cninille, already mentioned (art. 28), bcnrs
from the west point of Cock Cove S. E. by S. 8 miles, and will
serve to point out its positiui to a stranger.

CAPE t'HATTE TO RIC.

lay anchor
I stream of

1 4 fathoms,
vessels had
This rock,
outer point
angers. It
since there
r place can
or 6 miles,

is by Metis
/vestward of
I nearly dry
riie Bay is

1 mile deep ;
r 4 fathoms,
iter, and in
is no shelter
mer months
jT moored in
;h the river
ion they are
lich extends
joining the
winds along
ire is, how-
ore, and the

After the

dangerous

vessels may

2 fathoms :
•com to get

n 3 fathoms
coast. The
,28), bears
s, and will

It may be remarked here, that large vessels may anchor ,'in Anchorage alt
fine weather, all along the coast from Metis to Green Island. cS.

Father Point bears from the west point of Grand Metis Bay
W. by S. I S., 14 J miles. It is low, covered with houses, and Father Puint,
the regular rendezvous of the pilots, many of whom reside Piloit.
there.

The eastern point of Barnaby Island is 3 miles W. by S. from
Father Point, and between them is the anchorage or Road of Rimomky
Rimousky, where vessels ride throughout the summer to take
in cargoes of lumber. They lie moored in 4 or .5 fathoms at low
water, with excellent holding ground, and sheltered from W. by N.
round by S. to E. N.E. The best sheltered berth is with the
eastern point of Barnaby Island bearing W. by N., Rimousky
church S. S. W. J W., and Father Point E. N. E. : the depth will
then be 4 fathoms at low water spring tides over mud bottom.
Small vessels may anchor further to the westward in 3 fathoms at
low water, with the east end of the rocks, off the eastern point of
Barnaby Island, bearing N. W. by W., and distant a quarter of a
mile. The reef does not extend above a quarter of a mile off the
eastern point of Barnaby Island, and may be passed by the lead
in 4 fathoms.

Barnaby Island is 3J miles long, and very narrow : it is of Bartuiby
slate and greywacke rocks, like all the coast and islands on this * ""' *
side of the Estuary. It is low, wooded, and uninhabited. In
the interior of the Island there is a long pond of fresh, but not
good water, which last must be obtained from the River of
Rimousky.

The channel between the Island and Rimousky is dry at low
water. From 7 to 12 feet can be carried through it at high
water, according as it is nciip or spring tide, but at no time
should a vessel drawing more than 8 feet attempt this passage,
since there are rocks and large stones here and there, and also
fish stakes.

The church of Rimousky to the eastward of the river, and Rimoutky
many houses, will be seen directly opposite the Island. Church,

Off the outside of Barnaby Island there is a 3 fathom shoal, Barnaby Shoo/.
extending out fully two-thirds of a mile, and the reef off its
western end runs out in the direction of the island more than
three-quaiters of a mile. Between the western end of Barnaby
Island and the mainland there is a large high and Bare Rock,

I:-.

*'
S'

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

Btaringt from

Bamehif

Ii/tmd.

Ha-Ha Bag.

Bantabf Road, which is distRnt from the island about two-thirds of a mile.
Midway between the western points of the island and Bare Rock,
bearing north and south from each other, there are 2 fathoms at
low water, in Bamaby Road, over muddy bottom, affording good
anchorage to small vessels in all but westerly winds. Rimousky
church in one with the eastern end of the rock will lead over the
tail of the reef off the west end of Barnaby, and into this
anchorage.

49. From the eastern point of Bamaby Island to the eastern
point of Bicquette Island the course is west, and distance 14^
miles. From the western point of Barnaby Island to the eastern
end of the S. E. reef off the island of Bic the course is also west,
and distance 8f miles. From the western point of Barnaby
Island' to the N. W. extremity of Cape Arignole the course is
W. by S. iS., and distance 10 miles.

There are bays on either side of Cape Arignole, but they dry
at low water. The bay on the west side of the Cape is named
Ha-Ha Bay. With easterly winds, there is excellent anchorage
off its entrance in 4 fathoms at low water, and further in fur small
vessels in 3 fathoms ; but it is seldom used, because the equally
safe and more roomy anchorage under Bic is justly preferred.

Arignole Reef consists of two rocks lying across the mouth of
the bay, on the east side of the Cape. The west end of the
western rock of this reef is always above water, and bears south
2| miles from the east end of the S. E. reef of Bic, and £. IN.
li miles, from the N. W. extremity of Cape Arignole j but it is
distant only a quarter of a mile from the rocks off the east side
of the Cape. This western rock is a quarter of a mile long, and
very narrow. The eastern rock is small, covered in high tides,
and one-third of a mile east from the other. These two rocks are
very bold to the northward, and there are 5 or 6 fathoms of water
between them. Vessels may pass between them and the main
by keeping close to them, but can seldom have occasion to try
so dangerous a passage.

The west point of Old Bic Harbour bears E .S. E. J E., 1 mile
from the east end of the reef. This harbour, as it is called, dries

Bieoque Rocks, at low water, and has many rocks in it. Two round and high
rocky islets, called the Bicoques, will be seen extending to the
westward of its east point, and diminishing the bread*^^h of tlic
entrance to two-thirds of tt mile. '• '

Arignole Reef.

Old Bio Har-
bour.

CAPE CHATTE TO BIC.

of a mile.
Bare Rock,

fathoms at

arding good

Rimousky

3ad over the

d into thii

the eastern
listance 14|
the eastern
is also west,
of Barnaby
iie course is

but they dry
ipe is named
nt anchorage
ir in for small
e the equally
preferred,
the mouth of

end of the
d bears south

and E. iN.
lole ; but it is

the east side
mile long, and
in high tides, ^
two rocks are
boms of water
and the main
)Cca8ion to try

JE., 1 mile
is called, dries
(und and high
tending to the
)read»h of the

Midway between these rocky islets and the west point of the Oid Bio Road.
harbour small vessels may anchor in Old Bic Road in 3 fathoms
at low water, with muddy bottom, and with the point bearing
west, distant one-third of a mile. To run ii^ to this anchorage
from the N. W., keep the westernmost of the two rocky islets its
own breadth open to the eastward of the west point of the har-
bour, and you will clear the eastern rock of the Cape Arignole
reef, which is the only danger in the way. j

The summit of the high land southward of Cape Arignole^ iSgh iand of
otherwise called the high land of Bic, 1234 feet above the sea ^"''
at high water, bears S. W. by S. from the N. W. extremity of
the Cape, distant nearly 2^ miles. The hills in this neighbour-
hood are composed of high and narrow ridges of grey wacke rocks,
parallel to the coast, and to each other, and declining gradually
in elevation on either side of the summit just mentioned. When
these ridges are seen nearly end on, from either up or down the
Estuary, they present an outline so remarkable that this land can
be made out from very great distances.

' Bic Island lies directly o£P Cape Arignole, at the distance Bic hUmd.
of nearly 2i miles, and is about 3 miles long, without including
the reefs, in a direction parallel to the coast, and 1 mile broad.
Its shores are of slate rocks ; it is thickly wooded, uninhabited,
«nd in height does not exceed 150 feet above the sea.

Supplies of -water can only be obtained from the bay between Water,
the east and S. E. points of the island, and not always there in
dry seasons. But vessels may supply themselves from the river
in the S. E. corner of Old Bic Harbour, or from a stream on the
west side of a small bay of the mainland, 4 miles westward of
Cape Arignole.

BicQUBTTE Island^ three-quarters of a mile to the northward BicqueUe
of Bic, is half a mile long, by a quarter of a mile broad, and about '*'*"•*
100 feet high above the sea. Several large rocks above water
extend one-third of a mile to the east and S. E. of the island,
and diminish the breadth of the channel between it and Bic to
little more than half a mile. Off the west end of Bicquette, in Weit Reef.
a S. W. by W. J W. direction, there are two large rocks always
above water, and a third which covers at high water ; these lie
nearly in a line, and extend to the distance of a mile from the
island.

The N. W. Reef op Bicquette is the greatest danger, lying if. IV. Reef.

\ i

is.f,

■;«»-

:-r

St'

: n

If
r

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

liicquetle

due west from the west end of the island, and at the distance of
Ij miles. The cross mark for it is the west end of Bic in one
with the N. W. point of Ha-Ha Bay, bearing S. S. E. J E. ;
but this last named point can seldom be plainly made out, in
Clearing Mark, consequence of the high land behind it. In approaching this
reef from the westward, the north extremity of Cape Arignole
should not be shut in behind the west point of Bic. This reef is
composed of two rocks about 150 fathoms long, and which just
cover at high water : both it and Bicquette are very bold to the
northward (art. 25). There is deep water all along the line
from the north side of Bicquette to this reef, and also between
the latter and the rocks to the S. E. of it, but these are danger-
ous passages, which ought not to be generally tried, though it is
useful to know of their existence in case of emergency.

I must apply the same remarks to Bicquette Channel, between
Bic and that island, which was not known before this survey :
there are no leading marks for running through, but it may easily
be done with the assistance of our charts in case of neceisity.
The south-western reef off Bicquette is most in the way, and there
are also two small round rocks on the Bic side, 200 fathoms
off shore, and bearing nearly south from the west end of Bic-
quette. To avoid the first of these dangers, do not bring the
south extremity of the rocks off the S. E. side of Bicquette to
bear to the eastward of E. N. E. ^E. ; and if you do not bring
tlie north side of Bic, near its east end, to bear to the northward
of E. i^N., you will clear the second, which, however, always
shows, excepting in very high tides. These directions are, how-
ever, insufficient without the chart, which must be carefully con-
sulted, fur this is an intricate and dangerous place. The best
time to run through is at low water, when all the dangers show,
and a vessel, keeping in mid-channel between tlieni, will have
from 9^ to 5 fathoms, with irrrgultir soundings and foul ground
occasionally.

Bic has another set of dangers of its own. The first of those
is the S. E. Reef, which extends out from the S. E. jwint of the
island to the distance of nearly H miles in an E. by S. direction.
The outer part of this reef is formed of three rocks lying in a
straight line, and always above water. The two eustcrmost are tlic
largest, and arc nearly joined togttlicr, whilst the westermost of the
three is detached, so at* to leuvu a cliaunel through the reef 150

IHc h/iinil.
S. K. lirvf.

Narrow .1
falhiimi

CAPE CHATTE TO BIC.

distance of

Bic in one
S.E.JE.;
aAe out, in
laching this
pe Arignole
This reef is
i which just

bold to the
ng the line
also between

are danger-

though it is

icy.

inel, between
this survey :
it may easily
of necessity,
ray, and there
200 fathoms
end of Bic-
lot bring the
Bicquette to
do not bring
ic northward
vever, always
ins are, how-
carefuUy con-
The best
angers show,
;ni, will have
il foul groimd

first of those
I. point of the
y S. direction.
L'ks lying in a
crmost are tl>e

termost of the
\ the reef IjO

fathoms wide, and 5 fathoms deep. Large vessels should not Bic ttioHd,
attempt to papn between these rocks, or between them and Bic, *' •''
for the tides are rendered irregular by the uneven bottom, and
there is much foul ground about, as will be seen by the chart.
Small schooners can pass on either side of the western rock,
keeping close to it, if they pa?s to the westward. The shoal water
does not extend beyond a cable's length from the east end of the
S. E. reef : the rocks above water are bold, both on their north
and south sides. The inner part of the reef, extending under
water from the S. E. point of Bic, reaches further to the south-
ward than the 'direction of the rocks, and must be avoided by not
bringing the south side of Bic to bear to the southward of
W. by S.

The N. E. reef of Bic is a small patch of black rocks, which ■'V. E. Reef of

Bic,
shows at low water, lying N. E. by E. 400 fathoms from the

N. E. poini of the isiandj and N. W. ^W. rather more than

one mile from the east end of the S. E. reef. To clear this reef to Clearing Mark.

the eastward, keep both the rocky islets on the east side of Old

Bic Harbour open to the eastward of the S. E. reef, bearing

nothing to the eastward of S. E. by S.

The West Grounds of Bic are an extenpive flat of slate, which ^^- Gwnwrfi of

liiv.

partly dries at low water. The outer point of these Grounds, in
3 fathoms, bears W. J S. from the west point of the island, distant
nearly three-quarters of a mile ; and they may be approached
by the lead, as nearly as 5 fathoms, at low water.

The Alcidb Rock has no connexion with Bic, but as it is Alddt Rock,
extremely dangerous, and lies much in the way of vessels passing
through the Bic Channel, between that island and the main land,

1 shall notice it here. It is a small rock, about 6 feet long, and

2 wide, having 4 feet water on it at low water, and standing on a
small rocky shoal, 100 fathoms long, i^arallcl to the coast, and
about half as wide. " This shoal is so bold all round that there is
no warning whatever by the lead. It lies due S. W. from the
west point of Bic, at the distance of nearly 3| miles. From the
N. W. extremity of Cape Arignole it bears W. i S., distant 5 miles ;
and it is rather more than \\ miles distant from the shore to
the southward. There is no close leading mark for clearing this
Rock, but if Mount Camillc be not entirely shut in behind Cajic
Arignole, vessels will l)c in no danger from it.

The above mark, together with the bearings, which I have Bw VAuHiut.

Ic.

K.
C

if!

Ill'

'Ik I

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

' :i'»,

ific Channel, given, will be a sufficient guide to vessels beating through
between Bic and the main, in their board to the southward.
In their board to the northward, towards the West Grounds of
Bic, vessels must not shut in the S. E. reef behind the south
side of Bic. All along the south side of Bic, and the S. E.
reef, they may safely stand in to 7 fathoms at low water, not,
however, without remembering what I have said respecting
the inner part of the latter. Cape Arignole and its reef are quite
bold to the northward, and further to the eastward, between Old
Bic Harbour and Barnaby Island, vessels may safely stand in
to 4^ fathoms at low water : the ground is all clean sand and
mud bottom, with excellent anchorage in every part.

With this full description of the dangers around Bic and Bic-
quette, and the assistance of our charts, vessels will have no
difficulty in passing on either side of these islands in clear
weather : and as I have already given directions for running past
Bicquette at night, or in foggy weather (art. 25), it therefore only
remains to point out the best places for anchoring, and to give
directions for approaching them.
/inchortige off There is excellent anchorage under either end of Bic, and also
mrniieii infoggy bctwccn it and the main land, according to the wind ; and vessels,
u'fniher. which may be met by an easterly wind, had better anchor

than attempt to beat down the Estuary in the long and foggy
nights of the fall of the year. More shipwrecks have arisen in
consequence of vessels obstinately endeavouring to beat down
against an easterly gale, with its accompanying fog, than from
any other cause, and yet all that they can gain by such a course
might be run in a few hours of fair wind.
nircciknifor A vessel being to the north-eastward of Bic, with the first of
Uw Amiioruge. ^^ easterly gale, should bear up before the weather becomes
thick, and steer for Bic Channel. The S. E. reef will be
seen, and vessels may puss a quarter of a mile to the south-
ward of it, or by the lead, coming no nearer to it and the south
side of Bic than 1 fathoms at low water. Having run to
the westward \\ miles past the west end of Bic, haul to the
northward with the lead going, and taking care not to api)roach the
West Grounds nearer than G fathoms at low water, until the south
side of Bic bears E. \ N., and the north side N. E, by E. With
these bearings uiiclior with 7 fallionis at low water, over miiddy
.^ l)()ttoni. In this jiositioii you will have the S. E. reef shut in

CAPE CHATTE TO BIC.

ig through
southward.
Grounds of
1 the south
[1 the S. E.
water, not,
. respecting
eef are quite
between Old
Fely stand in
in sand and

Bic and Bic-
will have no
inds in clear
• running past
therefore only
5, and to give

Bic, and also
i ; and vessels,

better anchor
ong and foggy
have arisen in

to beat down
fog, than from
J such a course

vith the first of
cttthcr becomes
1. reef will he
e to the south-
t and the south
Having run to
Jic, haul to the
t to approach the
•, until the south
E. by E. With
iter, over muddy
E. reef shut in

behind the south side of Bic : Bicquette and its rocks will be B,c Anchorage.
all open to the N. W. of Bic : the N. W. reef of Bicquette will
bear N. ^£., rather more than 1^ miles : you will be fully half
a mile to the westward of the 3 fathom mark on the outer ex-
tremity of the west reef of Bic, and consequently will have plenty
of room to get under weigh with the first of the westerly wind,
when you should cast to the southward and run through Bic
Channel to the eastward. A wind from the southward, to-
gether with the set of the ebb tide, might perhaps render it
preferable to run out to the northward, round the N. W. reef of
Bicquette ; in which case do not go to the eastward into less than
8 fathoms, at low water, nor shut in the north extremity of Cape
Arignole behind the west point of Bic.

If it be night, and yet not so dark but that the principal Taking Bit;
features of the land can be made out, although it might hcmglu.
dangerous to attempt to make the low S. E. reef, another mode
of proceeding may be adopted, under the circumstances above
contemplated, and supposing the position of the vessel to be
known. In that case, run in to the southward, towards the main
land, half way between Barnaby Island and Bic, until you shoal to
5 fathoms, at low water ; then steer west by compass, but corrected
for deviation^ and you will deepen your water gradually. When
you arrive at 9 fathoms you will be past Old Bic, and will pro-
l>ably see the opening of that harbour to the southward of you.
When you arrive at 11 or 12 fathoms, you will be past the Cape
Arignole Reef, and will soon begin to shoal again on the Bic side
of the channel. If it be too dark to sec the island, go no nearer
than 7 fathoms. When you judge yourself far enough to the
westward, haul gradually to the northward into the stream of the
island, and anchor as near the position previously pointed out as
you can. It is not, however, necessary that you should be in
that position, although it has been recommended as the best
sheltered; for you may anchor, and will ride easily, anywhere
under and within 3 miles of the island, in 8, 9, or 10 fathoms at
low water ; and large and heavy ships would, perhaps, wish to
lie further off than I have recommended.

In the case of a vessel to the nortliward of Bic, and wisliing .Ipprnm-hntf
to run to the sanie anchorage from the N. W., so as to pass to />''„', X'"''''^'
the westward of the N. W. reef of Bicquette, run to the west- noii/iumJ.
ward ; going no nearer to Bic(iuettc and the N. W. reef than

n 2

100

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

'■«

ir
c

Taking Bio
Anchorage in
thick weather.

Bic Eaitem

Anchorage
with Westerly
windi.

Anchorage in
Hie Channel
wlh Northerly
U'imh.

Tiile» near liie
Island.

30 fathoms, till the extremity of Cape Arignole becomes open to
the S. W. of Bic, bearing S. E. j^ E. : then haul to the southward,
going no nearer to the reefs of Bicquette than 8 fathoms, and
anchor as before directed. ; '. " * '*

Should the weather be so thick that no land can be seen,
either mode of proceeding may be adopted. I, however, recom-
mend the latter as attended with less risk ; but in such case, the
distance run must be carefully attended to, due allowance made for
the tide, and the soundings in the chart consulted. The principal
thing is to make sure that you have run far enough to the west-
ward to insure clearing the N. W. reef, when you haul to the south-
ward, for whether you anchor within 1 or 3 miles of Bic, will make
no other difference than that the water will be smoother at the
less than at the greater distance.

Vessels running down from the westward to anchor under Bic
should keep Mount Camille open to the northward of Cape
Arignole to clear the Alcide Rock. Then mnning along the
south side of Bic, and the S. E. reef, they should haul round the
east point of the latter, no nearer than a quarter of a mile,
nor than 8 fathoms, and anchor, with the east point of the
S. E. reef bearing S. W. J S., three-quarters of a mile, in 10
fathoms, at low water, over clay bottom. The N. E. point of Bic
will tlien bear west a little southerly, the N. E. point of Bicquette
W. |N., and tlie whole of Cape Arignole will be just open to the
southward of the S. E. reef. Large ships may anchor further
off to the eastward if they please, but in the berth which I have
recommended, a vessel will have plenty of room to cast to the
southward, and weather the S. E. reef, in case of a sudden shift of
wind. Should she, however, prefer going to the northword round
Bicquette, let her beware of the N. E. reef of Bic, the position of
which has been already described, and also, particularly if the
wind be light, of the indraught of the flood tide between Bic and
Bicquette.

With northerly winds vessels may anchor anywhere in Bic
Channel, but the best berth is off a small sandy point, nearly in
the middle of the south side of Bic Island, in 8i or 9 fathoms at
low water, over muddy bottom, at three-quarters of a mile off shore.

To the westward of Bic the first of the flood comes from
(he N.E., but there is very little stream of flood in neap tides
between Bic and the main land, excepting close to the latter.

CAPE CHATTE TO BIC.

101

nes open to
southward,
thorns, and

in be seen,
jver, recom-
ch case, the
ice made for
lie principal
to the west-

the south-
c, will make
lother at the

tr under Bio
rd of Cape
g along the

1 round the
r of a mile,
point of the
mile, in 10
point of Bic
of Bicquettc

open to the
chor further
hich 1 have
I cast to the
iden shift of
iward round
e position of
ilarly if the
een Bic and

here in Bic
nt, nearly in
9 fathoms at
lilc off shore,
comes from
n neap tides
the latter.

In spring tides it runs through the channel at the average rate Tide» near
of li knots, being strongest near the main land. It also runs
between Bic and Bicquette, but the stream extends only a
very short distance outside the latter island.

The stream of flood continues its course close along the Stream of the
main land, passing inside, and also very close outside, of the
Razades, Basque, and Apple Island; but nowhere extending
a sufBcient distance off shore to be of use to ships beating to
the westward much below Green Island. That part of the
stream of flood which passes further out towards Bic, and also
that which passes between Bic and Bicquettc, runs at its full
rate only until half flood, after which, it becomes gradually
weaker, turning to the N. W., round the west end of the island,
and finally, to the north and N. E. towards the end of the tide.

The stream of flood becomes weaker, and of less duration, as we
proceed to tlie westward of the islands. Half way between Bic
and the Razades there is slack water for about an hour at the
end of the ebb ; after which a weak flood makes during tlic
first quarter of that tide, at the rate of a quarter of a knot ; and EiUij Flwd,
this is succeeded by the eddy flood at the rate of 1 1 knots, or
2J at the edge of the Bank of Soundings, which comes from tlic
westward, running in the same direction as the ebb during the
remainder of the flood tide.

From these remarks it will be seen, that vessels will make
little way to windward against a westerly wind on the Bank of
Soundings between Bic and the Razades ; and indeed, all the
way to Green Island.

The set of the latter part of the flood to the northward past the
west end of Bic should be remembered by vessels weighing from
the western anchorage, or approaching the island with light winds,
especially in the night, or thick weather.

The first of the ebb sets off shore, or from the southward, and Siremi «/
this is more particularly remarkable at the eastern anchorage, hut
it only lusts for a very short time, after which the stream runs
fairly between the islands, and along the coast to the eastward
for the remainder of the tide. Its rate, in westerly winds, varies
from 2 to 2^ knots, according ns it is neap or spring tides, hut it
does not run so strongly in easterly w inds.

The chart will show how extensive the south hank is both to the Suuth Hank,
eastward and westward of Bir and ni('(|ucttc, and the assistance

]l©@

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

Edg'ofthe
South Bank.

From Bic
Inland to the
Razade
hlet».

South Bank, which the soundings on it may afford to vessels at night, or in
fogs, will be evident. If vessels on approaching those islands
from either direction, will but use their leads in reference to
the soundings in the chart, and attend to the directions giv.en
(art. 25), they can scarcely run foul of Bicquette, or its reefs, as
has so often occurred in times past.

It has been mentioned (art. 25), that the 30 fathoms edge of the
south bank is 7 miles north of Barnaby Island, and 1^ miles
north of the N. W. reef of Bicquette. Between those points the
edge of the bank continues in a slightly undulating line. Every-
where within that line there is much less water, and to the north-
ward of the south bank, in every part, there is no bottom with
from 60 to 80 fathoms of line, quite over to the north coast.
The 30 fathoms edge of the bank is 4| miles north of the N. E.
Razade Islet, and is nearly straight from that point eastward to off
the N. W. reef of Bicquette.

To the westward the south bank becomes gradually wider, its
northern edge pursuing a direction from off the Razades towards
the north side of the Red-Islet Reef. There ie nowhere
more than 36 fathoms at low water upon it, until we arrive
within 2 miles of the line joining the N. E. extremities of the
Red-Islet, and Green Island Reefs, and this increase in the depth
of water is a valuable indication to a vessel approaching that dan-
gerous pass in thick weather, when the Green Island light cannot
be seen. There is anchorage in 10 or 12 fathoms, with good
holding ground, all along the south coast from Bic to Green
Island.

The coast of the main land between Bic and the Razades
is high and rocky. With the exception of the Alcide Rock already
noticed, it is free from danger to small vessels, which may stand
close in : but ships should not stand in further than 7 fathoms at
low, and 9 fathoms at high water, because of a long ridge of rocky
ground extending 5 miles to the E. N. E. from the N.E. Razade
Islet with 17 feet least water near its eastern end. To clear every
part of this ridge, keep Basque Island its own breadth open to
the northward of the N. E. Razade.

The Bazadtt. 50. The Razadg Islf.ts are two large rocks about a quarter
of a mile long ; they iire low, bare of trees, and bear from each other
S. W. J W. H miles. The north-eastcrmost of these Islets bears
from thcN. W. reef of Bicquctti' S. W. ;J W., nearly 15 miles,

BIC TO GREEN ISLAND.

103

ight, or in
)8e islands
ference to
ions givjcn
ts reefs, as

edge of the

1^ miles

points the

!. Every-

the north-

ottom with

orth coast.

theN.E.

ward to off

wider, its
ss towards
nowhere

we arrive
[ties of the
1 the depth
S that dau-
ight cannot

with good
I to Green

le Razades
)ck already
may stand
fathoms at
je of rocky
.E. Razade
clear every
th open to

b a quarter

each other

slcts bears

15 miles,

and is distant 1| miles from the main land to the southward.
There is no passage for vessels between them and the shore.

Basque Island is 5 miles W.S.W. from the N. E. Razade Islet,
II miles long parallel to the coast, and 200 fathoms wide. Its
greatest height above the sea does not exceed 100 feet : it is rocky,
wooded, uninhabited, and there is no passage for ships between
it and the sho^e, from which it is distant 2 miles.

Near the S. W. end of this island a sandy spit runs out, a
quarter of a mile to the southward. Close off the end of this
spit, there is a long and narrow hole 4 or 5 fathoms deep at low
water, in which small craft may be secured.

The shoal water extends half a mile to the northward of
Basque Island, and there is a reef of rocks to the N. W. and west of
its west point. On the western extremity of this reef, and about
600 fathoms distant from the island, is a round rock which
shows at half tide.

Apple Island is W.S.W. J W. 2i miles from Basque Island. It
is formed by one principal and several smaller rocks ; the whole
covering a space one mile long parallel to the coast, by 150 fathoms
wide. It is 30 or 40 feet above the sea at high water, without any
trees, and distant 2^ miles from the nearest point of main land.
There is no passage for ships between it and the shore, but its north
side is very bold, there being 4 fathoms at the distance of a cable's
length.

The east end of Green Island is a long and narrow point of
rocks, always above water, and running out more than half a mile
from the trees towards Apple Island, which is distant from it 2|
miles in an E. N. E. direction. Half this distance towards Apple
Island is occupied by reefs of slate which dry at low water. In
the remainder, there are a few feet of water, affording a passage for
very small schooners, which run in between Green Island and the
main at high water. And here I may mention, that the line
of shoal water is continuous from each of these islands to the other,
and may be safely approached with care to 1 fathoms at low, or
10 fathoms at high water ; as may also the islands.

Gkeen Island Lighthousk stands un the north point of the
island, nearly 2 miles from the eastern extremity of the rocks above
water off its cast point ; and W. S. W. i W., 41 miles from Apple
Island. It shows a iixcd light GO feet above tlic sea, and can be
been in clear weothcr, and in the ordinary state uf tiic rcfructiuu.

Basque Island.

Basque Spit,
and deep hole.

Basque liecfs.

and half tide
Rock.

Jpple Island,

Green Island.

Green Inland
Lighthouse,

;. I: :

MI)

m " !i

■*

ffWH

111

' "■il' !

■jjIMi

i 'if

;'''!

104

Orttn hlwtd.

White Beacon
for Red-ltlel.

Green Island
Reef.

Extent.

Sleep to, except
on eastern aide.

yrl the Lead it
the ohIij guide.

Ebb sett over it.

Clearing Mark,

Green Inland
Huad,

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

from the distance of about 12, 14, or 11 miles, according as the
height of .the observer's eye is 10, 20, or 60 feet. The tower is
square, "white, and 40 feet high. Behind the Lighthouse at
the distance of about a quarter of a mile, and bearing S. S. £. i E.
irom it, there is a white beacon for leading clear of the tail of the
Red-Islet Reef, as described in (Art. 28).

The Grebn Island Reef, which is extremely dangerous, runs
out from the lighthouse N. N.E. ^E. li miles to the 3 fathom
mark. From its N. E. extremity it trends, with a serrated outline,
E. by S. till it joins the shoal water connecting Green and Apple
Islands. Its N. W. side is straight, running S. W. by S. from
its N. E. extremity, to the shore close to the westward of the light-
house, oS which it extends only 200 fathoms to the N. W. Its
shape is therefore irregularly triangular, and the rocks on
it dry at low water, nearly three-quarters of a mile out from the
high water mark. .

On the eastern side this reef may be safely approached by the
lead to 7 or even 6 fathoms at low water, but on the north, N. W.,
and west sides there is no bottom with the hand lead until close
to it. Half a mile north, and N. W. of it, there are between 20
and 30 fathoms of water. At the distance of one mile N. W. from
its N. E. extremity, there are between 40 and 50 fathoms ; and at
the distance of 14 miles, in the same direction, there is no bottom
for a short space with 50 fathoms uf line.

Deep as the water is to the northward of this dangerous reef,
there is no other guide, in a thick fog when the light cannot be
seen, but the soundings : yet it will never do to lose command of
the vessel by rounding to, in the rapid ebb tide, (which sets upon
the reef at the rate of 5 knots,) for the purpose of getting bottom
in the usual way by the common deep sea lead. Here then it is
that Massey's patent sounding machine becomes of invaluable
service to the seaman, enabling him to obtain correct soundings
despite of the rapid tide, and without interfering with the course
and rate of his vessel.

To clear Green Island Reef, in the daytime and clear weather,
keep the summit of the high land to the southward of Cape Arig-
nole (or the high land of Bic) open to the northward of Basque
Island.

There is excellent anchorage in westerly winds under the Green
Island Reef, and it is the gcucial rendezvous of vessels waiting for

BIG TO GREEN INLAND.

105

■>s ;\

jVi'

the flood to beat through between Greqn and Red Islands. But as orten blmd.
the first of the flood comes from the northward, and setp on the
shoals, vessels had better not anchor with the light bearing to the
westward of S. W. \ W., or in less than 1 fathoms at low water.
With that depth, on that bearing, they will be 2h miles from the
light, one mile from the eastern edge of the reef, and the same
distance from the shoal water to the southward. If they wish
still more room, they may choose their berth in 9, 10. or 11
fathoms, and will find a bottom of stiff mud in either depth.
' ' When lying at anchor, with the light bearing S. 55° W., and 7t<fc* m Grttn
distant 3 miles, and in 8 fathoms at low water, I observed that
the firdt of the flood came from the northward ; the vessel then
tended gradually round with her head to the N. E., east, and S. E.
at the end of the tide. The vessel continued to go round with
the first of the ebb, which came from the southward off the shoals,
to the S. W., west, and N. W., which latter point she reached at
about 2 hours ebb; and she continued with her head in that v

direction, from which the tide came, until near the end of the tide.
She then began to tend again, with her head to the north and
N. £. as before, going completely round the compass in 12 hours.
It was never entirely slack water, the stream continuing to run,
more or less, during the whole time. The rate of the ebb was
3 knots, and that of the flood 2 knots This occurred in a per-
fectly calm day.

in.

106

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

CHAPTER VI.

:«*

;i*r

'X'
c

■^

■it

THB NORTH COAST OF THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE
FROM ST. JOHN RIVER TO POINT DE MONTS; AND FROM
THENCE TO LITTLE BERGERON NEAR THE SAGUENAY.

51. General Description of the Coast from the River St. John to the
River Moiiic. Magnetic Nature of the Coast. Appearance of, and
Approach to the Shore — 52. River St. John, Magpie River, Sawbill
River, Shallop River, Manitou River, Bason River, Point St. Charles.
River Moisic, and the Coast and Dangers. — 53, The Shoal to the west-
ward of Point Moisic. Seven Islands Bay. — 54. The Coast from the
Seven Islands to Point de Monts. River St. Margaret. Cawee Islands.
Lobster Bay. Pentecost River. English Point. Egg Island and Reefs.
Calumet River. Caribou Point. Trinity Bay. Point de Monts Light-
house. Point de Monts, and detached Rocks. — 55. The North Coast
of the Estuary, to Point St. Giles. St. Augustin Cove. Goodbout
River. St. Nicholas Harbour. St. Pancras Cove. English Bay. — 56.
Manicouagon River. Manicouagon Shoal. Outard River. Outard
Bay. Bersimis River. — 57. Bersimis Point and Shoals. Jeremy.
Cape Colombier. Oulnare Shoal. Wild Fowl Reef. Plongeur Bay.
Baie de Laval. Port Neuf River. The Port Neuf Sands.— 58. Point
Milles Vaches. Milles Vaches Bay, and the Coast to the south-west-
ward. Great and Little Bergeron Coves.

General
Description of
the shore.

'•'■'I

51. From the River St. John to the River Moisic the course
is W. N. W. I W., and the distance 69 miles. The whole of
this long line of coast, with the exception of its two extremities,
that is to say all between Magpie and Trout Rivers, is composed
of primary rocks rising' immediately from the sea in steep,
although often rounded hills, which are either bare, or partially
wooded with small trees of the pine species. The hills in front,
or next to the sea, seldom exceed 200 or 300 feet in height : but
others, a short distance back from the shore, form a range of
greater elevation, varying from 500 to 700 feet, and nowhere
exceeding 1000 feet of height above the sea.
Theblackoxideofiron,beBides,beingaconBtituentmineralin the
Aatttre of the granitic rocks of this coast, is found abundantly in nests and veins.
Coal/. particularly iu the vicinity of Sawbill River. Its magnetic

action on the needles of compasses on shore is such ns to

Elevation.

RIVER ST. JOHN TO THE SEVEN ISLANDS.

107

cause the variation obtained by them to vary from 14 to 29
degrees west. Whilst sounding in the boats, we sensibly felt
this disturbing influence, which diminished or increased as the
boat receded from, or approached towards the shore. In the
Gulnare, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles, the error, from this
cause, never exceeded half a point, and at the distance of 5
or 6 miles it became insensible.

The appearance of this coast from a vessel is slightly undulat- Appearance of
ing, bold and unbroken, presenting features so little diversified that ' ' ''
it is very difficult to make out one part of it from another at a
distance of 2 or 3 leagues; but upon a nearer approach, the
mouths of the rivers, taken in connexion with the features of the
neighbouring land, will in general supply distinguishing cha-
racters, by which the situation of a vessel may be ascertained.

This coast is not by any means so bold as it appears from a The Coatt not
distance, for there are many rocks along it both above and under '"''*
water, several of which are very dangerous, and nearly 1 mile
from the shore.

There are soundings off every part of this coast, as will be seen Approach to
in the chart ; but I advise those who may not be fully acquainted ,„^Jf,
with it not to approach the shore between Magpie and Bason
Rivers nearer than 20 fathoms. Still greater caution becomes
necessary between the last-named river and Point St. Charles,
where 40 fathoms is as near as a large ship can approach with
prudence, for that depth in several places will be found within
1 mile of the rocks.

52. The River St. John is a large stream occasionally fre- River St. John.
quented by fishing-schooners early in the season, and which our
boats ascended 6 miles, following the winding of its channels, with
a depth of water varying from 1 to 3 fathoms at low water. The
tide flows no further than the distance just mentioned, where the
river becomes too rapid to be navigated by other than canoes or
flat-bottomed boats. The course of the river, for several leagues
up from the entrance, is between high cliffs of stratified sand
and gravel over clay, with small sandy islands occasionally. The
country, on either side, is covered with a thick growth of small
spruce trees. Five or six leagues from the sea, following the
stream, there are reported to be high falls over granite rocks.
At the entrance, between the clay cliffs on the west and a sandy Dreadih.

108

-<!l'!-

■ I •■!'

GULP OP ST. LAWRENCE.

■ m

i*n

I* 5

'1 1

River Si, John,

SUping Bar,

Anchorage
outnde.

MmmtSt.John.

Magpie River,

WaterfiUl.

Shual.

point on the east side, the river is 130 fathoms wide. The
breadth increases to nearly half a mile immediately within the
entrance, and then decreases again gradually, being nowhere
less than 100 fathoms wide in the first 6 miles.

There are two log-houses on the west bank, half a mile within
the entrance, where a party of men occasionally reside to fish for
salmon; and vessels may lie close to them in 2 fathoms at
low water.

An extensive bar of sand, half a mile out from the entrance,
shiils with every gale of wind, and has seldom more than 3 or 4
feet over it at low water; at high water there are 7 or 10 feet on
the bar, according as it may be neap or spring tide. Southerly
and westerly winds cause so heavy a surf as to render the bar
impassable. There is good anchorage outside the bar, which
may be safely approached by the lead, the soundings decreasing
gradually from 20 to 3 fathoms over sand and clay bottom ; the
greater depth being at 2]^ miles, and the lesser at three-quarters
of a mile, from the river's moutl^. The entrance of the river
lies nearly 6i miles N.31**W. from the Perroquets, which are
the westernmost of the Mingan Islands ; and Mount St. John,
an isolated, saddle-backed hill, 1476 feet above the sea at high
water, bears N. £. | N., 11 miles from the entrance.

Between the St. John and Magpie Rivers the coast consists of
white clay cliffs, with a superstratum of sand, which is fast con-
solidating into sandstone by means of the red oxide of iron
furnished by numerous small streams.

Magpie River, nearly in the centre of Magpie Bay, and
5 miles N.W. ^ N. from the River St. John, is a large and rapid
stream, with several rocks above and under water off its east
point of entrance, and one-third of a mile off shore.

The entrance of this river, between steep rocks, is only 10
fathoms wide, and the ebb tide rushes out of it in a torrent
5 fathoms deep. One hundred and fifty fathoms within this
narrow entrance the river falls about 30 feet over granitic rocks.
There are from 7 to 9 feet at low water over the bar outside, but
as this river is of no use either to vessels or boats it is un-
necessary to describe it further.

Rather more than three-quarters of a mile to the westward of
the river, and nearly one-quarter of a mile off shore on the west

t .'

RIVER ST. JOHN TO THE SEVEN ISLANDS.

109

side of Magpie Bay, there is a rocky shoal, on which the sea Magfit Bay.
almost always breaks at low water.

The course and distance across Magpie Bay, from the River
St. John to Magpie Poiut, is W.N.W. 8 miles. There is good
anchorage, with winds off the land, in Magpie Bay ; and vessels
may stand in to 7 fathoms at low water in every part of it, but
the southerly and westerly winds roll in a very heavy sea.

Three and a half miles W. N.W. i W. from Magpie Point is Pmit Fathomt
Ridge Point, from which a long and narrow ridge of rocky ground, EqcAi,
with from 4 to 6 fathoms at low water, extends 4^ miles to the
westward across a bay, wherein there is one large and several
small rocks above water. The western side of this rocky ground
is nearly 1 mile off to the southward of Thunder Point. There is
a very heavy sea upon this ridge at times, and it then becomes
dangerous to large ships. There are 20 fathoms of water close
outside of it in some parts, and 30 fathoms is quite near enough
to its west end.

Sawbill River, situated in the bay between Sheldrake and S'.wbUl River,
Ore Points, and 23j miles westward of the River St. John, is the
next place worthy of notice. It may be distinguished by the clay
cliffe immediately within the entrance, and by the peculiar hills
on either side of it, which are barren and of grey felspar, thickly • ''.

studded with small round mounds.

This river affords shelter to boats and very small coasting
craft ; but it can only be entered in very fine weather, in con-
sequence of the heavy surf. It has scarcely any bar; but the
entrance, at the western extremity of a long and narrow spit of
sand, which extends across the river's mouth, is very narrow, and ' ^
from 4 to 11 feet deep, according to low or high water, in ordinary
spring tides. At high water neap tides there is seldom more than
9 feet of water. The same depth continues only for a very short
distance within the entrance.

Nine miles S. by E. from the entrance of this river there is a Cod-Bank.
bank of sand, gravel, and broken shells, on which codfish
abound, and there are upwards of 60 fathoms between it and
the shore.

Shallop River, 7 J miles further to the N.W. by W., affords ShaHop River.
shelter only to boats, and can only be entered when there is no
surf. There are several rocks, both above and underwater, off
this river, and also off Sandy River, a small stream about 2j miles

}l^

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

»!!»"

Pi.

■ *- further westward. The outermoflt of these rocks lie fully half a
mile from the shore.
Mmitau River. Manitoo River is the next in order, being 4^ miles N.W. by W.
of Shallop River. It is the largest on this coast, excepting the
Rivers St. John and Moisic, and it is distant to the westward
from the first of these rivers 35 miles. It may be readily dis-
tinguished from a vessel several leagues off the coast by two
remarkable patches of clay cliff, one of which is close to the
eastward, the other about 1 mile to the north-westward of its
entrance.

To enter this river, keep close along the rocky west side of
Manitou Point, leaving on the larboard side the sandy spit
close within it, which stretches out from the sandy west
point of the entrance. The channel is always in this posi-
tion, but it is more or less wide and deep according to the
season and the winds which may have recently prevailed. In
general the channel is about 30 fathoms wide and 5 feet deep
at lo^v water, whilst at high water 9 feet in neap tides, and
12 feet in spring tides, may be carried in. Strong southerly and
westerly winds cause a heavy surf, and render the entrance im-
practicable. A short distance within the entrance there are
9 feet at low water, deepening gradually to 5 fathoms at the first
rapid, one mile up the river. Half a mile further up, the river falls
1 13 feet perpendicularly, over sienite and porphyry, in one un-
broken sheet of water, forming one of the most beautiful cascades
in Lower Canada.
^nckorogenff There is good anchorage off this river. Ships may safely
Mamiou River, anchor in fine weather with the wind off-shore, having the
entrance of the river bearing N.E.JE., 1|^ miles, where they
will have 15 fathoms over mud bottom, and be more than 1 mile
distant from Manitou Point, the nearest point of the shore. If
they require water they will find it at a small stream on the
western shore, a short distance within the entrance ; or they may
row up the river until they find the water fresh.

Small vessels may anchor further in-shore to the westward of
the bar, and in the bay between Points Manitou and Buchnn,
which are 3 miles from each other ; for the soundings decrease
regularly in towards the shore, with snnd and ciny hottoiu, and
there is no other danger but a trnmll rocky shoal which hears
us from the entrance of tlic river, !

Magnificent
tValerfttlt.

liuckan fhint.

by N. 2i

RIVER ST. JOHN TO THE SEVEN ISLANDS.

Ill

iilly half a

r.W.byW.
:epting the
5 westward
eadily dis-
Bt by two
ose to the
irard of its

est side of
sandy spit
landy west

this posi-
ing to the
vailed. In
5 feet deep

tides, and
utherly and
itrance im-
! there are
I at the first
le river falls
, in one un-
ful cascades

may safely
having the
where they
than 1 mile
e shore. If
cam on the
or they may

westward of
(ind Buchan,
igs derrcnuc
bottom, and
which l)Piir»
;r, S.E..iS.

nearly a mile from Point Buchan, and which is about three-
quarters of a mile o£f-shore. There are 7 fathoms within this
shoal, and 9 fathoms close outside of it, so that it should be
guarded against by vessels beating along the coast. '

Buchan and Fall Rivers, and also Hotteurs River, fall in
cascades into the sea, or close to it, and thus serve to point out
to a vessel her position off the coast ; and there is, moreover, a
remarkable white patch close to the westward of Buchan River.

Bason River, which is 101 miles W. N.W. JW. from Manitou
River, has a spit of large stones extending about 150 fathoms out
from its east point of entrance. The entrance is very narrow,
with a varying depth, which is less or more according to the
prevalence or infrequency of the S.W. winds j but there is in
general enough water for very small coasting craft or large boats.
There are rapids a quarter of a mile within the entrance.

Cape Cormorant, 1^ miles west of Bason River, is a small
peninsula, on the inner side of which there are the log-huts of a
trading post not always occupied, and which cannot easily be seen
from the sea.

Blaskowitz Point is 5| miles W. N.W. J W. from Cape Cor-
morant. Between them are the Cormorant Islets, joined to the
shore at low water, and not readily distinguishable from the
main land.

A small and dangerous reef, called Cormorant Reef, lies off
those islets, and about a mile from the shore, It has 12 feet least
water, and bears W. IN. 2 J miles from Cape Cormorant. On it.
Points Blaskowitz and St. Charles are in one, bearing W. N.W.
nearly, so that vessels approaching this part of the coast should
keep the latter point open. The coast between Cape Cormorant
and Point St. Charles is broken into coves, two of which are nearlv
1 mile deep, full of rocks, and afford shelter only to boats. The
shore is here fringed with rocks both above and under water, and
should not therefore be made too free with.

Point St. Chahlks will readily be known by the cove on the
east side of it, and by the trending of the land on the west side
northward towards Trout River.

TuK REEF off Point St. Charles is extremely daniferous, being
HO bold that there is no waniing by the hand lead, and very little
with tlie deep sea lend. It is composed of a great number of
rocks near to each other, but having a considerable depth of

Catcadet of
Buchanand two
other Rivert
mark the
Coast.

Baton River.

Cormorant
Cape.

Blatkouiitt
Point.

Cormorant
hieti.

Cormorant
Reef.

St. Charles
Point.

St. Charles
Reef.

112

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Moitie Bay.

Trout River,

Sral-hmue
Govt.

St. Ckarht water between them. Some of them always show, but the outer<
•'' most patches are always covered. These last lie rather more thau

three-quarters of a mile oflf to the S. S.W. from the southern ex-
treme of Point St. Charles ; and the reef continues to the first
cove, Ij^ miles to thfe north-westward of the point, but does not
there extend so far off-shore as off the point itself.

Vessels beating to the westward should take care not to be
becalmed to the westward of this reef, lest the heavy swell from
the S.W., so frequent on this coast, should heave them towards
the reef, for the water is too deep to anchor until close to the
breakers.

Moisic Bay intervenes between Points St. Charles and Moisic
River, the course across it is west, and distance 11 miles, with a
depth of between 50 and 60 fathoms nearly all the way. Trout
River, a small stream, is in the centre of this bay, and 6t^ miles
N. W. J W. from Point St. Charles. Here the rocky shores
terminate, and the bold sandy beach, which extends 6^ miles
S.W. by W. to the River Moisic, commences.

Seal House Cove, on the east side of the bay, and 2\ miles
from Point St. Charles, affords shelter only to boats. There are
two log houses there, which are occasionally occupied as a fishing
and trading post.

The soundings are regular in the bay, with deep water, over
clay and sand bottom.

The granitic hills, which leave the shore at Trout River, con-
tinue inland until they join the ridges in rear of the Bay of Seven
Islands. Between the hills and the sea there is an extensive
tract of low sondy country, thickly wooded, and which seems to
have been formed, in the course of ages, by the united action of
the rivers and the sea.
Moiuc Htvtr. The River Moisic enters the eca on the east side of the point
of the same name, which is the southern extremity of the sandy
country just mentioned. It is a larger river than the St. John,
discharging a great quantity of water in the spring after the
melting of the winter snows, and bringing down from the interior
great quantities of sand, which so obstruct its wide and shallow
channel in the first 2|^ miles from the sea that boats cannot
ascend at low water. The river becomss Bhnllow immediately
within the entrance, expanding in'o ii wide place full of sund-liara
dry at low water. In the ubuve-numcd distance from the seu,

RIVER ST. JOHN TO THE SEVEN ISLANDS.

113

the breadth of the river decreases from 2J miles to half a mile, '*'<'«*'> River.
and at the end of that distance the sand-bars cease. The river
has then a clear channel of 9 feet deep, between steep
sandy shores or cliffs for 1 mile further, where its breadth is a
quarter of a mile. Here our examination was terminated by a
head-wind and the rapidity of the current in the spring of the
year. The traders report that flat-bottomed boats can ascend to
the first rapids at the distance, following the stream, of 6 or 7
leagues from the sea. The bar, which is of sand, dry at half tide. Bur.
runs out from the long, low, and narrow east point of entrance,
nearly half a mile to the south-westward, and nearly parallel to
the east side of the west point of entrance.

The entrance of the River, between this bar and the west point, Eniranee,
is from the S.W., and continues for 600 fathoms with a breadth
of a quarter of a mile, and a depth varying with the seasons and
the winds which prevail ; those from the southward and eastward
having a tendency to block up the channel. I believe that there Dei,ih.
is seldom a less depth than 9 feet at low water, the same as
inside close under the west point of entrance, which is the
only place where a small vessel can find shelter, close to two
log-houses occasionally employed as a salmon-fishery by the
l)coplc of the Hudson Buy Company. The shelter here is ex-
tremely im])erfect in gules of wind from the southward and
eastward, which send in so heavy a sea that, after breaking
completely over the bar »ud across the entrance, it still retains
power enoiigh to seriously affect a small vessel. The tides rise tUii.
from .5 to 8 feet.

.5.3. Although the bar of the River Moisic is so bold that there »l/oi'»i> flank,
are .50 fatlionis of water at the distiuicc of three-quarters of n mile
from it to the south and S. E., yet the Bhnllow water continues
from it to the westward 3 J miles past Point Moisic in such a
nmiiner as to form an extensive triangular sandy slioal, with from
.'i to 1^ fathoms on it at low water.

The S.W. extremity of tiiis wlioal, near which there is n 3fuisic limi,
jiatch of rock with 9 fett least water, l)ears W. by S. J S. 21
miles from Point Moisic, and is nearly li miles from the shore.
This is an extremely dangerous siioal, being us bold as a wall, reri/ itaiigrrmit.
There are 2.5 fathoms of water aloniiside of its south and S.W.
edges, and upwards of .'10 fiillionis at the distance of two rabies.
I( can gcmrally be Been, in fine wiuther, ftoin tlie change in the

114

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

it*'

J»/«r*.

Etui Rocki.

Moisic Rich, colour of the water, and from heavy breakers when there is much
Bcarunnmg. ' ■ '

There is no close leading mark for avoiding this shoal, so that
the only direction I can give to a vessel standing towards it, is to
tack when the northern side of the Manowin Island comes on with
the southern ]ioint of the Great Boulc luland : she will then he
11 miles from the edge of tlie shoal, and in upwards of 30 fathoms
water.

The East Rocks, which are low, bare of trees, and always above
water, lie in Boule Bay between this shoal and the Boule Islands,
as will be seen in the chart. Tiiey arc out of the way of vessels,
which ought not to go into this embayed place, since there is
generally a heavy southerly swell rolling in, which would render
it difficult to beat out.

The south point of Great Boule Island bears west, and is
distant 9i miles from Point Moisic.

Thb Seven Islands are high and steep, of primary rocks, very
thinly wooded, and can be made out from a distance of 1 or 8
leagues, being unlike anything else in the Gulf. Tlie eastermost of
these islands are the Great and Little Boule, the former of which
is the highest of them all, its summit bcmg G95 feet above the
sea at high water. Next, westward, and paiallel to these two, are
the Little and Great Basque Islands ; the first named being, as
before, the outer island. Great Basque Island is 500 feet
high. Manowin and Carousel lie to the S.W. of the Basques.
The former island is 457 feet high ; the latter much lower, and
the southernmost of the islands. The West Rocks lie between
Manowin and the peninsula, wliich forms the west jioint of the
Bay of Seven Islands. They are too small and low to appear as
the seventh island ; but the peninsul.i has that a|i])earance wlien
seen at n distance from sea, being higher tlian any of the islands,
and ''[V] feet above the sea at high water.

Tlie relative situations of these Islands, their size, and the
hreiulth of the channels between them, will be best seen from tlie
charts ; they arc so placed as to completely shelter the nuignificent
bay within them, wliich is 23 miles wide at llie entrance, be-
tween Point Chasse, the cast end of the peninsula, ami San«ly
Point, which is opposite the northern end of Great Basque
Inland. From the entrance tlie Bay of Seven Islands extends
iiliout mileB tu the northward and westward, being su nearly

The Seven
hianiti.

Itiiiltr.

Budque,

Miinnvin,
Cnrou»et.

Sn<en hlandu
JUiy.

THE SEVEN ISLANDS.

115

re 18

much

)al, 80 that
rds it, is to
nes on with
■ill then be
30 fathoms

ways above
ule Islands,
y of vessels,
ace there is
,ouUl render

;rest, and is

y rocks, very
EC of T or 8
eastermost of
ner of which
et above the
hcse two, are
led being, as
is 500 feet
the Basques,
•h h)\vcr, and
J lie betvcen
; point i>f the
V to appwir ii»
)cnuancc when
of the islands,

81ZC, and the

seen from the

he magnificent

entrance, be-

11, and Sandy

Great Basque

Bhvnds extends

eing so nearly

/ '(/ v.se.v

landlocked as to resemble a lake, suiBciently extensive for the S,ven hlunds
largest fleets to lie in perfect safety ; the bottom is of clay, and
there are no shoals, excepting the* mud banks which iill up the
northern part of the Bay.

A fine broad, bold, sandy beach extends for 3 miles northward
from the east point of the Bay, to the entrance of the principal
river, near which stands the Hudson Bay Company's trading
post. The houses at this post cannot be seen from the outer parts
of the Bay, but there is a wooden store on the beach olf which
vessels usually anchor. Water can be obtained from this river
at high-tide.

To the northward of the Bay, at the distance of a few miles,
there are two parallel ranges of mountains ; the summits of the
nearest are upwards of 1300, and those- of the most distant up-
wards of 1700 feet above the sea. These mountains, the high
peninsula, the bold and hilly islands, and the other features
around the Bay, form a panorama of great beauty.

The narrow Passes between the two Boule Islands, the two ne mirrow
Basque Islands, between Miuiowin and Carousel, and between
Manowin and the West Rocks, require no further notice than to
remark, that the tide sets strongly towards, and through them ;
the flood to the west, and the ebb to the eastward, a circunistiince
that should be attended to when becalmed at ninht, or when tacking
in their entrances. The first and last of these channels have water
enough for tlie largest ships ; but the one is subject to sudden and
bafHing flaws of wind round the Boule Islands, and the other is
rendered intricate by rocks which nearly cover at high water.

There are three obvious channels leading into Seven Islands lUisieni
Bay, nanu'ly, the eastern, the middle, and the western clmnnels.
The eastern channel, between Great Bascjuc Island an<l Sandy
Point, is seldom used, having a rock in its centre, which
is covered only in high tides. A reef, with from 6 to D feet
of water, extends for a quarter of a mile to the eastward of this
rock. The passage on either side of it is from 13 to 15 fathoms
deep, nnd 200 fathoms wide. Vessels should only attempt it
with a fair wind, and should keep within a cable's length of
Basque Island, or as near to the sandy point of the main land:
the latter is recommended as preferable. This narrow eastern
rhaniiel may be approaclitd from between the Boule Inlands and
the East Rockn, or fmni between the Boulesand Basqres Ifhtmlti,

I '2

L'Imnnel,

116

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Seven Island*
Bay.

Mulil/e
Channel.

botli routes being entirely free from dnnger, for the islands are so
bold that a vessel may approach them within a cable's length in
every part.

The middle (which is also the principal and best) channel is
upwards of 1 i miles wide, and so free from danger that the largest
ship may approach the shore within half a cable's length in every
part, excepting at Point Chasse, where a reef runs out 120
fathoms from the shore. This channel, between the Basque
Islands on the east, and Carousel, Manowin, the West Rocks,
and the peninsula on the west, is preferable in every wind,
excepting the north and N. W., with which, to save beating,
(since they blow out of the Bay,) it might be desirable to enter
by the west channel. The course through the middle channel
into the Bay is due north by compass.
n'est Chamiel, The west channel between the West Rocks and Point Croix,
at the southern extremity of the peninsula, is three-quarters of a
mile wide, and quite free from danger. There are 2 or 3 rocks a
cable's length to the northward of the islets, called the West
Rocks, but they always show, excepting in very high tides and
the smoothest sea. The only direction necessary, therefore, is
not to go nearer to the West Rocks than 2 cables' length ; the
peninsula side is quite bold. There is, however, a caution neces-
sary here respecting the ebb tide, which is turned off by Point
Croix towards tlic West Rocks, a circumstance which must be
attended to in taking this channel with a scant northerly wind.

There are no leading marks for these channels, nor are any re-
quired, for the two last described arc so free from danger, that a
person who had never seen them before might take the largest
ship into the Bay, without either chart or pilot, by simply giving
the shore a berth of 2 cables' length in every part.

The water is too deep for anchoring in any of these channels,
and the bottom generally rocky, excepting to the eastward and
northward of the Boule Islands. The ground is not fit for
unclioring until well into tlie Bay.

The best berth foi a large ship to 1'^ "^ anchor in Seven
Islands Bay is with Sandy Point au;! the north side of
Liitle Boule Island in one, and with Point Chassti on with
the west side of the West Rocki». The N. W. extremity of the
siindy beach near tlie entrance of the river will then bear N.
by E. ;^ E. : the vessel will be in 9 fathoms at low water; over

Murks tinne-
veiiarij.

/hirfmriiii/
Ihrlh.

THE SEVEN ISLANDS.

117

ids are so
length in

tiannel is
he largest
X in every
out 120
e Basque
>3t Rocks,
ery wind,
e beating,
le to enter
le channel

lint Croix,
arters of a
r 3 rocks a
the West
tides and
lerefore, is
ingth ; the
tion neces-
ff by Point
h must be
[y wind,
lire any re-
iger, that a
the largest
nply giving

se channels,
stward and
not fit for

r in Seven
th side of
is»5 on with
;mity of the
len hear N.
water; over

clay bottom, nearly one mile from the sandy beach to the eastward, Seven Islands
and nearly three-quarters of a mile from the 3 fathoms edge of
the shoals, which occupy the northern part of the Bay. Smaller
vessels may lie closer to the shore, in 6 fathoms at low water,
which is as near as any vessel ought to anchor.

In this anchorage there is a considerable swell with a strong
southerly wind, but never enough to endanger a vessel, although
sufficient to prevent boats from landing. Those that may wish
to he perfectly smooth, may anchor in the S. W. part of the Bay
in 13 fathoms, soft clay bottom, where they will be perfectly
landlocked.

The rate of the stream of the tides in the Bay, and in the priu- Tid<i.
cipal channels between the Seven Islands, seldom amounts to a
knot ; but in the narrow channel between the Boule Islands, the
Basque Islands, and in the east and west channels, it may amount
to 2 knots in spring tides, or even more in the narrowest of these
channels when accelerated by strong winds. The flood, coming
along the coast from the eastward, strikes the Boule Islands, and
passes between them, and also between the two Basque Islands. It
is turned oif by the Great Boule towards Carousel Island, and the
west channel ; but the greater part of the stream, which pusses
within the Boule Islands, enters the Bay by the east channel, be-
tween the Great Basque Island and the main land. There is very
little flood in the middle channel excepting an eddy outward
stream close along the shores of the peninsula, and the narrow
stream from between the Basque Islands, which sets across
towards the west channel.

The ebb sets fairly out of the Bay, part of it by the east
channel, and part by the middle channel, where it meets the
stream through the west channel, which turns it to the eastward,
past the southern points of the Basque and Boule Islands.

In fine nights the winds are almost always light and baffling Ihffling IVmU
between the islands, particularly if the wind be from the westward"' '"J"'*
in the offing. At such times there is generally a northerly land
wind in the Bay, but it docs not often reach far out among tlu;
islands in the early part of the night, although it often docs
towards the morning.

The water is extremely deep outside of the Seven Islands, as
will be seen in the chart, and the islands are so bold, that a veshcl
muy stand close to their rocky shores.

118

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

■•}•* uv

Seven hlnnda
to Point lie
Minis.

: *
ti

«-

g
It

if*--

^oW 0/n»/ and
tisi-ful Sound-
iny*.

St. Margaret
Hiver.

Si. Margaret
Point.

54. The course from the S. E. point of Carousel, the southermost
of the Seven Islands, to Point de Monts lighthouse is S.W. by W.
J W., and the distance 60 miles.

This coast is less bold in appearance, being less elevated thai)
that to the eastward of the Seven Islands. The hills are, for the
most part, far back in the country, and the shores are of very
moderate height above the sea. The country near the sea is
formed of small and low granitic hills, partially wooded with spruce
trees. Marshes and ponds are frequent between the hills; sandy
beaches occur occasionally, and the sandy tracts in rear of them
are always the most densely wooded parts.

There are no detached dangers off this coast, which is much
more bold than its appearance would promise ; and although the
water is deep off every point of it, yet in general, and with few
exceptions, there are sufficient soundings with the deep sea lead,
to give warning to a vessel of her approach to the shore.

The course from Carousel Island across St. Margaret Bay to
Point St. Margaret, is \V. by N. 14 miles; with very deep water
all the way.

St. Margaret Rivkr is nearly in the centre of the bay of
the same name; being 6 miles N.W. by W. from Point Croix.
This River, although a large stream, affords shelter to boats only.
It has a bar of sand extending three-quarters of p mile out from
the entrance, and having several small channels through it, with •
only 3 feet at low water. Immediately within the entrance,
which is no I'atlioms wide, there are G feet, and only 3 feet can
be carried up to the low falls, which are over granitic rocks, and
3i miles from the entrance. Below the falls, the River flows be-
tween cliffs of sand and clay, and is full of sand-bars, dry at low
water. The water deepens gradually outside the bar, wtth sandy
bottom, to 18 fatlionis at the distance of u mile from the 3 fathom
mark. There is sandy beach for a considerable distance on
either side of the River's mouth.

St. Margaret Point is rocky, of very moderate height, and
has a round hill ii short distance within its extremity. There are
several rocks, which cover at high water, and which extend to the
distance of nearly one-third of a mile oil' this point. These rocks
are extremely bold, and there is no bottom with the hand lead
dose outside of tliern, and no bottom witii 70 fathoms of line ut a
less distance than 2 miles.

THE SEVEN ISLANDS TO POINT DE MONTS.

Ill)

,..U'

The course and distance from St. Margaret Point to Great ^<«'* '*'•'*'■'
Cawee Island is S. W.by W. JW. 16 miles, across a bay in which
are Rock River, and many other small streams. The coast in this
distance is low, and fringed with small islets and rocks close to
the shore, which may with prudence be closely approached by the
lead ; but 20 fathoms is near enough to it, for those who are not
fully acquainted. The deep sea soundings are very irregular off Irregular
this section of the coast, for in some parts there are not more than 3/0^'/"/?/*.
50 fathoms 4 or 5 miles off-shore, wheteas in others, as off the
May Islets, 6 miles north-eastward of the Cawee Islands, no
bottom will be found with 60 fathoms within 2 miles of the rocks.

The Cawee Islands are two small and hilly islands of grey Cnwie h/ands.
granite, and nearly bare of trees. Great Cawee Island, which
is the largest, the highest, and most to the eastward, is about
three-quarters of a mile in diameter, and estimated to be about
2.50 feet high. Little Cawee Island, lying a mile further to the
south-westward, is composed of two contiguous islets, which occupy
a length of half a mile parallel to the coast ; it has several rocks
above water close off it to the S. W., and a reef 120 fathoms to the
north and N. W. of its west point. Both of these islands are bold
as a wall to seaward, but there is a small and high round rock a
quarter of a mile S. W., from the south point of the Great Cawee,
and this is the only danger between the islands, being, like their
southern sides, so bold that a large ship might lie alongside of it.

There is a secure boat cove on the N. E. side of the Great Great Cuwee
Cawee, with plenty of water, but too small and narrow in the en-
trance for vessels. Off the mouth of this cove to the N. E., and
at the distance of 200 fathoms from the island, there is a rocky Orcni Cawee
shoal 100 fathoms in diameter, and with 15 feet least water.
The mark for this shoal is the north side of Great Cawee and the
point of the main land to the w estward in one, bearing W. S.W . ^ W.
Half 11 mile N.E.byN. from this shoal is a small round ledge, Cawee Ledge.
a wash at low water, and one-third of a mile from the main
land. Tiie marks for this ledge are the south side of the large
rocks, between Great Cawee and the main, on with tlie point of
the main to the westward; and the south side of Little Cawee
just shut in behind the north side of Great Cawee I&land.

At the distance of 200 fithoms from Great Cawee, betw een it and
the main, there aic two larjio rocks close togethtr, which are 150
failioms from llic mainland, and have u reef oil' ihcni 20U fathoiiis

y
.<>'

12(J

/r/<:?c GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. ^A lt»4

;••«;

■f .

^§

^li"

ill > treat
Vawee-

to the S. W. by W. Nearly half a mile N.E. byE. from these
rocks, and at the same distance from the main, there is a small
rock which always shows.
Aiiehorinij Bag There is a bay on the inner or N. W. side of the Great Cawec
Island ; the anchorage is in the mouth of this bay, in 7 fathoms
muddy bottom, and at the distance of a cable's length from
the Island. The shelter is complete with winds from W. by S.
round by north to N. E., and tolerably so with all easterly
winds, although some swell rolls round the Island; but the
S. W. winds blow right in, and send in a very heavy sea. To
run into this anchorage from the eastward, steer N.W. past
the N. E. side of Great Cawee Island, going no nearer than half a
mile, (to avoid the shoal off the mouth of the cove,) until the
point of the main land to the westward opens clear of the north
side of the Island. Then steer for the poirt nt the main land,
keeping it midway between the north side of the Island and the
large rocks to the northward of it. When you arrive between the
rocks and tiie Island, haul into the mouth of the small bay, which
you will see on the N.W. side of the latter, and anchor in 7
fathoms at low water. There are 12 or 13 fathoms in the middle
of the channel, and upwards of 9 fathoms can be carried through.

In running for this anchoragi- I'roni the westward, a vessel may
pass between Little Cawee and the main, keeping in mid channel ;
but the better and safer way is to pass between Little and Great
Cawee Isla.ids, hauling close round the west point of the latter
into the anchorage. By this route there is nothing in the way,
excepting the round rocks to the south-westward of the south
point of the Island, which can always be seen.

The tides run fair through between the islands and the main
land, at a rate which seldom exceeds IJ^ knots, and which is in
general much less.

From the foregoing description it will be seen that this is
a very dangerous and intricate place; and the anchorage be-
tween Great Cawee and the main is too small for large vessels,
the channel being only 200 fathoms wide. Still this anchorage,
although too email for an occasional place of shelter, excepting for
small vessels, may, nevertheless, be of great use as a place of refuge
for a vessel in distress, from loss of masts, or other cause ; for
the ground is so good that I believe a vet^sel, well moored there,
would ride out any gulc wliich occurs during the buuimur munths.

Tide*.

Anchot'nge
between Great
Cawee and
the Main.

THE SEVEN ISLANDS TO POINT DE MONTS.

121

There is neither wood nor water in the Cawee Islands, but
both may be obtained from the opposite main land.

Point Sproule, three-quarters of a mile to the north-westward Point SprouU.
from Little Cawee Island, is the eastern point of Lobster Bay.
A reef extends oflF its south side, a cable's length towards Little Reefs.
Cawee ; but the principal reef oflF it runs out 400 fathoms to the
west and S.W.

IjObster Bay is between Point Sproule and the Crooked I^htter Bay.
Islands, which are a group of small islets and rocks, running out
from the shore 3 miles to the westward of Point Sproule. All the
N. E. part, or head of Lobster Bay is occupied by an extensive
flat of sand and boulders, dry at low water, and on which lobsters
abound ; but it is an excellent open roadstead, with plenty of
room for the largest ships.

The Crooked Islands are bold to the southward and eastwards Crooked

. Itinnds.

leavmg the mouth of the Bay clear of all danger across to the reef
off Point Sproule. Vessels may anchor midway between the reef
and the islands, choosing their depth from 5 to 1 2 fathoms, ac-
cording as they may wish to lie at the distance of half a mile, or
of one mile from the 3 fathom edge of the flats in the head of
the Bay. The bottom is of fine sand over clay, and the shelter
from S. W. round by west and north to east, but all winds from
east round by south to S. W. blow right in, with a heavy sea and
thick weather.

Pentecost River enters the sea on the S. W. side of a rocky Pentecost
point, 1 J miles to the westward of ihe Crooked Islands : the op-
posite point of entrance is of sand. Two miles S. W. from the
mouth of the River, there is a remarkable round and wooded hill.
The first reach of the River is towards this hill, leaving a very
narrow sandy ridge between it and the sea. Steep clifl^s of sand
and clay form the River's banks for 2^ miles, to which distance
only it is navigable for boats. The entrance of the River is only

15 fathoms wide, with a depth of T feet at low water, and there
are 9 feet within for a short distance. At high water from 12 to

16 feet can be carried in, so that this River is capable of affording
shelter to coasting schooners as well as boats : but it would be
very difiicult to take a sailing vessel in through so narrow an en-
trance, and could never be done in the ebb tide, which runs out
with great rapidity.

River.

%A'

b'lt

122

-T/'M GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE.

"i mv>

THE

'; H-.

^*!

'CI

■(•■
' j)'

E;^!/ Island.

Diwgeroui'
Reefs.

' 't-' A fine bold sandy beach extends from this River to English

Point a distance of 7 miles to the S. W.
Engtiih Point. Englisb Point is It^miles to the nothward and eastward from
the north rocks of Egg Island, and has a shoal of large stones
extending off it to the distance of one-third of a mile. On the
S. W. side, or towards Egg Island, this shoal may be approached
to 6 fathoms at low water, but on the S. E. and east it is very bold,
there being 15 fathoms at the distance of one-third of a mile, and
30 fathoms at the distance of a mile from the 3 fathom mark.

Egg Island bears from the south point of Great Cawee Island
S. W. ^ W. 14 miles. It is low, narrow, and of granitic rocks,
without trees, and three-quarters of a mile long in a N. N. E. JE.
direction. The North Rocks, always above water, are 400 fathoms
distant from the island to the N.N.E.; they form a low, narrow,
black reef, which is 300 fathoms long in the same direction, bold
towards the main land and also towards English Point. A reef
under water runs out from these rocks in the direction of their
length, (namely to the S. S. W.,) and to the distance of 250
fathoms, leaving only a very narrow 3 fathom channel between
them and the island. The N. E. reef runs out to the distance of
600 fathoms from the N. E. point of Egg Island, and is the
greatest danger between Seven Islands and Point de Monts.
Some of the rocks upon the N. E. reef show in low tides, and the
sea generally breaks on them at low water. This reef prevents
the swell from rolling in between the north rocks and Egg Island,
and thus assists in sheltering the anchorage.

The whole, that is the island, rocks, and reefs, form a natural
breakwater, which is 1^- miles long in a N.N.E. direction, and
inclines slightly towards the shore at its northern end, in such a
manner as, with the assistance of the shoal off English Point, to
shelter the anchorage from N. E. winds. The northern end of
this breakwater is distant from the main land nearly three-quarters
of a mile, and the southern end more than a mile; 1)ut extensive
flats extend from the main, and diminish the navigable breadth of
the channel to 370 fathoms in the narrowest part, wliich is nearly
opposite the northern end of Egg Island. The best anchorage is,
however, to the S. W. of this narrow part, where the breadth,
from the 3 fathom edge of the shoal oft' the main to Egg Island, is
GOO fathoms.

Egn Island
Anchoraije,

All alon
water to tl
Rocks then
very deep,
to them,
and the bes
the time of
the island,
main land,
towards the
should hav(
they might

In order
depth of wt
of a line joi
The best p
S.E.byS..
Point will t
In this anc
north and \
by the Isla
maining poi
strong, and
shifting hei
over sandy

No direr,
from the si
Island is q
twecn the I
9 fathoms,
northward
giving the
length, unt
a mile. Y
may haul
by E. to av
rocks and i
reef off the

Tliesc
vessel to ru

THE SEVEN ISLANDS TO POINT DE MONTS.

123

All along the inner sides of Egg Island and of the reef under Egg Island.
water to the S. S. W. of the North Rocks, as well of the North
Rocks themselves, excepting near their northern end, the water is - .v

very deep, there being from 17 to 24 fathoms at low water close
to them. The depth decreases gradually towards the main land,
and the best depth to anchor in is 9 or 10 fathoms, according to
the time of tide. The bottom is of clay in the deep water towards
the island, and of sand from the depth of 9 fathoms towards the
main land. There is little danger of dragging an anchor up hill
towards the main, but, with violent squalls off the land, vessels
should have a good scope of cable out, for should the anchor start,
they might be on the rocks before they could bring up again.

In order to have as much room us possible, with a moderate
depth of water, vessels should not anchor to the north-eastward
of a line joining Roadstead Point and the centre of Egg Island.
The best position is with the S.W. end of Egg Island bearing
S. E. by S.. and the inner side of the North Rocks N. E. ; English
Point will then be open half a point to the westward of the latter.
In this anchorage vessels will lie sheltered from N. E. round by
north and west to S.W. by the main land, and from S. E. to N. E.
by the Island, with its rocks and reefs. The winds from the re-
maining points, namely, those between S.W. and S. E., seldom blow
strong, and even with them a vessel may find some shelter by
shifting her berth to the eastward, where she will find 1 fathoms
over sandy bottom. '

No directions are necessary for running into this anchorage
from the southward and westward, since the S.W. end of Egg
Island is quite bold. But if it be intended to run through be-
tween the Island and the main, stand in to the northward to 8 or
9 fathoms, or until English Point is open half a point to the
northward of the North Rocks, then steer for English Point,
giving the inner side of the North Rocks a berth of a cable's
length, until you have passed the North Rpcks a full quarter of
a mile. You will then be in about "7 fathoms at low water, and
may haul out to sea, going nothing to the southward of S. E.
by E. to avoid the N. E. reef. There is no danger between the
rocks and reefs of Egg Island and English Point, excepting the
reef off the latter already mentioned.

These directions, taken in the reverse order, will enable a
vessel to 1 un through from the eastward ; and I shall merely add

^'^m *

:? i

'Ml,'

*>■

124

/t'^y IslaniK

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

IVatet.

Tides lit EijJ
h!and.

to them a caution not to approach the N. E. reef off Egg Islet, for
there are 20 fathoms at the distance of a quarter of a mile from it in
every seaward direction, and consequently little warning by the lead.

The anchorage at Egg Island is too small to be a i'uvouritc
resort for large vessels, but in time of need, or as a place of refuge
in case of distiess, it would be found of great value on a coast so
destitute of good harbours.

There is no water on Egg Island, but it may readily be obtained
from small streams on cither side of Roadstead Point.

It is extremely difficult to make out Egg Island at night, by
reason of the high land under which it lies, and which, coming
from the westward, attains its nearest approach to the sea 1^
miles in rear of English Point. But this high land, whilst it
prevents the Island from being readily seen, points out its situa-
tion very nearly.

The rate of the tides between Egg Island and the main is from
a half to one knot, nnd part of the stream of ebb sets towards and
out through the narrow and dangerous 3 fathom channel between
the island and the North Rocks. Part of the stream of flood
comes in through the same channel.
Culitmtt Uiver, Calumet River is a small stream 2J miles W. by S. from the
S. W. end of Egg Island ; along the shore for a mile to the
south-westward of its entrance, there are reefs of large stones ex-
tending out 600 fathoms from the high water mark, and havi\ig
15 fathoms off them at the distance of half a mile to seaward.
To the S. W. of these reefs as far as Trinity Bay the coast is free
from danger, and may be approached with safety, if due caution
be used. There are 20 fathoms at the distance of from half a mile
to 1 mile, and 40 fatlxmis from 2 to 3 miles from the shore.

Caribou Point, 8j^ miles S. W. by S. from Egg Island, is a
small rocky peninsula, having sandy coves on either side of its
isthmus, in which pilot boats And shelter, and often remain on the
look out for vessels.

Trinity Bay is 5 miles further along the coast to the south-
ward and westward. It is 2 miles wide, and nearly ) mile deep,
with ft fine sandy beach extending from its S. W. point to Trinity
River, which is a small and rapid stream, abounding with trout
and salmon, whore water can be had only at high water, becaiiHC
of the large stones alutut its entrance. The S. W. |)oint of the
Buy is rocky, and uif the N. K. point theru are two low

Carilxm l\iiiil.

'I'riniiij llinj.

THE SEVEN ISLANDS TO POINT DE MONTS,

125

; Islet, for
', from it in
y the lead.
, i'uvouritc
e of refuge
a coast 80

le obtained

; night, by
;h, coming
:he sea 1^
, whilst it
t its situa-

ain is from
jwards and
icl between
m of flood

S. from the
nile to the
? stones ex-
nnd having
to seaward,
coast is free
due caution

half a mile

shore.
Island, is a

side of its
main on the

1) the south-
I mile dei'ji,
it to Trinity
; with trout
tcr, Itecaune
toint of llic
e two low

TrinityRaii
good stopping
place.

PHolt wait
there.

black rocks; the depth of water between the points of the
Bay is from 5 to 7 fathoms at low water over sandy bottom. This
Bay affords excellent anchorage, in a moderate depth of water,
with good ground, and plenty of room to get under weigh in
any wind. It is a very valuable stopping place, in westerly
wiuds, for vessels bound up the St. Lawrence, to wait their op-
portunity to proceed round Point de Monts, and up the Estuary.
Pilots arc generally found waiting in the Bay for vessels when the
wind is from the westward, but in easterly winds they take shelter
in St. Augustin Cove.

In running down along the land for Trinity Bay, either from Anchorage.
the N. E. or S. W. come no nearer than 15 fathoms until the Bay
opens ; then haul in, and anchor in 7 fathoms at low water ; with
the lighth(nise on Point dc Monts (seen just within a small rock
about Ij miles to the soiith-wcstward of the Bay) bearing S. W.
by W., the outer of the two rocks off the N. E. point of the Bay
N.E.;^E.,and the entrance of the river N. by W. ; the vessel
will then be rather more than three-quarters of a mile distant
from the S. W. point of the Bay. Large vessels may anchor
further out, and in deeper water, if they tiiink proper, and small
schooners in .1 fathoms close under the S. Wi point.

Point ue Monts LuiiiTiiousE is 5 miles to the south-west-
ward from Trinity Bay ; it stands low down and close to the sea, is
of tlie usual conical form, nearly wliite, and 75 feet high. The
lantern is elevated 100 feet above the sea at high water, showing
a Iniglit fixed light, which can be seen from distances of 15, 20,
and 23 miles nearly, accoiding as the height of the observer's eye
above the sea may be 10, 50, or 100 feet respectively.

Tlie extreme of the land to the north-eastward near Caribou
Point bears N.E. .J E. from the light, which can be seen over the
Point ; and that bearing continued will pass little more than 2J
miles ontnide of Egg Ixland ut the distancenf 20 miles from the light.

VcsbcIh beating to llie iiistwurd in a dark night, when the land
cannot be seen, had l)etter tack wlien tlie light bears W.S.W.
or even W. by S. will be near cnougli, if thuj be as near t(»
it as Trinity Bay. They nuiy, however, stand in nearer, using
due caution by the lead. Vennels to the westward of \\\c light
hhoidd tack us so(m as it bears E. .J N. ; it cannot be seen to tlie
houlliwaid of cast, in ct)n»e(iueiice of high land which interposes.

Point lie Monti
Ligliihuute.

IC/

IHi:
It

120

Detached
Rnckit off
Point de
Muntt.

Point de Monts
to Puiiil at,
Gilei.

St. Aiiijuttin

Ciive,
Ptlul:

(

RIVEU ST. LAWRENCE.

When it disappears, a vessel off Goodbout River will be only
one mile from the bar ; see art. 28.

The south extremity of Point de Monts is rather more than
IJ miles S. W. by W. f W. from the lighthouse. S.W. from the
light, S. E. from the extremity of the Point, and half a mile oIF
shore, lies a ledge of rocks with 9 or 10 feet least water. S. S. W.,
half a mile from the light, is another rock with 2 fathoms least
water, and there is a third with little more water, and nearly as
far off from the light to the K. S. E. These dangers sliould be
carefully guarded against in making the liglit in thick weather,
or when keeping close to the land with a northerly wind, and 15
fathoms is quite near enough to them for a large vessel at any
tiracj being no more than 2 cables' distant from the llrst, and
about twice that distance from the 2 last of them.

55. The land, which on the eastern side of Point dc Monts is
rather low, begins to rise innnediutcly from tliat Point to the west-
ward, and granitic hills very sparingly wooded, and in no part es-
timated to exceed 1000 feet in height, form the norlli coast of
the Estuary to Point St, Giles, distant 30^ miles W. J N. from
Point de Monts. The section of coast just indicated is as bold as
any in the St. Lawrence, there being little or no warning by the
lead, neither is there any good anchorage suiBciently roomy for
the occasional use of shipping.

St. Augustin Covk, IJ miles westward of Point dc Monts,
affords shelter only to boats ; and pilots are generally found
waiting here with easterly winds.

Goodbout Rivkk, 8^ miles westward from Point de Monts,
enters the sea at the extremity of a i^andy point, and inis a bar of
sand, which extends out from the eastern point of entrance to tiic
distance of nearly half a mile, dries in great \);\vl at low water,
and is extremely bold to seaward. There is usually at low water
not more than 4 or 5 feet over this bar, on which a heavy surf
very frequently breaks ; and the River is only of use to boats,
because of the difficult and narrow entrance, although there are
15 or IG feet of water over the bar at high water, spring tides.
There is a trading and salmon fisluiig post of t!u; Iludtion H,iy
Company at this River, and the houKs ciin readily be seen. It is
jtossible to anchor on either side of tin !)nr of Goodbout River,
but too near to the shore to lie of general use.

POINT I)E MONTS TO IlEIJSIMIS RIVEU.

127

U be only

more than
!. from the
a mile oiF
. S.S.W.,
lioms least
1 nearly as
should be
;k weather,
1(1, and 15
sscl at any
; ih'st, and

Ic Monts is
to the west-
no part cs-
th coast of
'. J N. from
8 us bold us
iiinj^ l)y the
y roomy for

t de Monts,
rally found

de Monts,
has a bur of
ranee to the
t low water,
at low water
I heavy surf
ice to boats,
jh there are
spring tides.
lud.MJn H.iy

Hi'cn. It is
ditiint Ri\iT,

Cape St. Nicholas, a higii bare point of granite, bears from C<'peSt.
Point de Monts \V. by N. 17 miles.

St. Nicholas Harbour is 3 miles N. E. by E. ^ E. from si. Mcho/at
the cape of the same name ; it is a narrow inlet between granitic "'"'""'"'•
hills from 500 to 700 feet in height,!^ miles in the direction of
N. W. ^N. This Ilarljour is so perfectly secure, that a vessel
might be laid en shore and repaired as if she were in a dock ; on
the S. W. side, a vessel may lie alongside of the rocks us along-
side a wharf.

There is as much as 9^ fathoms, at low water, in the deepest
part of the Harbour, and the bottom is of mud.

The breadth of the Harl)oiir within nowhere exceeds 190
fathoms, and at the entrance is only 75 fathoms. The shoals on
the east side of the entrance dry out so far as to leave a channel
between them and Cross Point only 30 fathoms wide, and 5 feet
deep at low water spring tides.

The depth that can be carried in at high water is from 14 to 17
feet, according as it may be neap or spring tides. The bottom in
the entrance is of sand, with some few large stones upon it, which
can be seen and avoided, if the tide be not high enough to ])ass
over them The entrance is situated in the centre of a small bay,
three-quarters of a mile wide, and rather more than one-(|uartcr
of a mile deep to the rocky point on the west side of the entrance
to the Harbour, which will be readily seen projecting out into the Cross Puini.
bay, and is named Cross Point, from a small wooden cross upon
it. An extensive shoal of sand and boulders, which dry at half
tide, extends from the east })oint of the bay 340 fathoms to the
W. S. W., and continues northward to the entrance of the Harbour.
This shoul can always be seen, is tjuitc bold, and completely shuts
out the sea from the Harbour in southerly and easterly winds.
The shoals on the west side extend across a small bay on the
west side of Cross Poini. and continue for 400 fathoms out to sea-
ward, extending otl'-shore to the distance of 100 fathoms.

The anchorage between tliese shoals, in the bay olf the Harbour's
mouth, is only 300 fathoms wide, and consequently too small to be
cousiilercd a nnuUtead for large vessels, but the ground is good,
and the depth convenient for anchoring preparatory to warping
into the Harbour.

South-east winds blow right into the Harbour, an<l are conse-
quently the most favourable for rinming in, Inil with a stron;;

\if

■a

SI. Nicholas
Harbour.

Directmufor
entering.

128 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

wind in that direction, and at high water when the shoals are
covered, there is generally some sea outside the narrow entrance ;
an accident at such a time might be attended with serious conse-
quences, and therefore it is only in very fine weather that the
entrance should be attempted with a S. £. wind.

North-west winds blow right out of the Harbour, and often with
great violence. A W. S. W. wind is the safest for running in,
for the entrance and bay outside are then quite smooth, the sea
being turned off by Cape St. Nicholas ; but this wind will seldom
take a vessel completely in, it will usually only enable her to shoot
so far within Cross Point that a line may be sent ashore,, or a
kedge ahead, for the purpose of warping in the remainder of the
way, which may be qiiickly done if due preparation has been
made beforehand.

The entrance should be attempted in the last quarter flood, then
if the vessel touches the ground she will receive no damage, and
there will be time for her to warp in before the tide begins to fall.

To enter St. Nicholas Harbour attend to the following direc-
tions. Being off the mouth of the bay, bring the end of Cross
Point to bear N.N. E., then steer so nearly for it as to leayeitnot
more than 50 nor less than 30 yards distant on the larboard
hand. If the wind vill allow, continue to run in, at the same
distance from the shore on the west side, until you deepen your
water; but if you lose the wind, or be met with light baffling flaws
out of the Hiirbour, as often happens in westerly winds, send a
line on shore on the west side, or drop your anchor under foot as
soon us your vessel loses her way, and warp into deep water. The
Hh«)al water, which may he culled the bar, and commences at
Cross Point, continues for 200 fathoms within it, and the channel
is rendered narrow by shoals off the eaatorii side for an ctpial dis-
tance further up the Harbour. In order to have as niucli room as
possible, a vessel should anchor further in than the tlirec large rocks,
which will be seen on the eastern side of the Harbour. To run out
again a vessel must wait for a N. W. wind, or take advantage of
the hmdwind in the early part of the morning, wiiicli often orcurs
ill fine weather when westerly winds prevail ; or, lastly, she must
warp out, in a light breeze or calm, totlie entrunre nf the buy out-
side, and to a position from which she can make sail.
If„t(f._ There arc several small slrcams, hm ibc caslcin side of the Har-

bour, wheic water can be obtained, mid it can also be bad at lii^h

POINT DE MONTS TO BRKSIMIS RIVEK.

lay

hoals are

entrance ;

U8 consc-

that the

often with
inning in,
ii, the sea
ill seldom
er to shoot
liore,, or a
der of the
has been

flood, then
mage, and
;in8 to fall,
ring direc-
id of Cross
Icure it not
le larlward
; the same
eepen your
.filing flaws
ids, send a
idcr foot as
ater. The
imonccs at
he channel
1 c(iual dis-
ich room as
large rocks,
To run out
Ivantagc of
fti.'n occurs
y, she must
he bay out-

of tlu' lliir-
had at lii^h

>watcr from tlie two small rivers ul the head of the inlet. The stones
on the bar of this Harbour might be easily removed, and I ascer-
tained, by boring, that the channel might be deepened to any
■extent that might be desirable.

St. Pancras Cove, 9 miles W. N. W. from Cape St. Nicholas, S'- P-innai
being only 160 fathoms wide, between steep rocks, and open to
the southward, with very deep water, is of no use to vessels.
There are 32 fathoms in its entrance, shoaling gradually to H
fathoms within a quarter of a mile of its head. The sea is never
heavy in it, and a vessel might be saved there in time of need.
It affords shelter to boats.

English Bay, between Point St. Pancras and St. Giles Point,
aifords no good anchorage, in consetjuence of the great deptli of
water ; a heavy sea rolls into it in easterly winds, and its shores
are high and rocky. A vessel might anchor close to the shore on
its west side, in 16 or 17 fathoms at low water, and be well shel-
tered from all but easterly winds ; but she would be in great
danger if a strong wind from that quarter came in, since there
would be no possibility of weathering the eastern side of the
Manicouagou Shoals dm ing the flood tide.

56. Point St. Giles is 13^ miles W.by N. from Cape St. Pomi si. oi/vx.
Nicholas, and is high and rocky, like tlie coast to the cast-
ward; while Manicouagou Point, which is 17^ miles W. by S.
from Cape St. Nicholas, is low and tliickly wooded, with a
broad sandy beach, like the rest of the coai.t westward to Outard
Bay.

This complete change in the character of tl>e coast points out
to a vessel her approach towards the dangerous Manicouagou
Slioals.

The entrance of the Manicouagou lies between the above two Arimimmh/uii
points, and is all dry at low water, with the exception of the "*^'*
narrow channels whicii lead up to the river.

Tlie principal chaimel is on the north side, and there is a A>«;7/< c/mnncf,
deep place, or large hole, in it, ij miles long, from half to .inrliorin/e
n (|uarter of a mile wide, and from 3 to 5 fathoms deep at low ""'''•
water, with muddy bottom. TItis large liole is close to I'oiiit
St. Giles, and extends 1 1 miles within it. Althougli tiiis place
appears completely open to easterly winds, no swell of consecpience
rolls into it, and 1 believe a vessel well nuiorcd on its north side
within Poiui St. Giles would he in safely. But to get in there it

■J

i30

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

»■

MamcotiagoH
River.

Bar.

is necessary to pass over a bar formed by the eastern part of the
Manicouagon Shoal.

This Bar extends out 2 miles to the eastward from Point
St. Giles, it has 7 feet over it at low water, and from 14 to 19 feet
at high water, according as it may be neap or spring tides. The
outside of the Bar is extremely bold, there being 30 fathoms sandy
bottom close to it, and 50 fathoms mud bottom at the di^nce
of one mile. The Bar then sweeps round till it joins the Mani-
couagon Shoal, which consists of sand with occasional boulders,
and which is dry at low water for nearly 5 miles out in an
E. by N. direction, from the northern end of Manicouagon
Peninsula.

This is altogether too wild and dangerous a place to be of
general use to vessels, but as, nevertheless, it might prove of use
in time of need, I give the following brief directions for en-
tering it.
Directions for Bring Point St. Giles to bear W. by S., with Point St. Pancras,
'uj^"''"^"^' the eastern point of English Bay bearing north at the same time.
Then steer directly for Point St. Giles ; and when the head of
English Bay bears north and Point St. Pancras N. E., you will
be close to the bar. Continue to run over the bar on the same
course, W. by S., until the points on the west side of English
Bay bear N. by £. i^ E. ; you will then lie within 1 mile of Point
St. Giles, and must keep away a couple of points to the southward
along the southern edge of the Shoal, which dries at low water off
that Point, until you open out the Points on the north side of
Manicouagon Bay to the southward of Point St. Giles; then haul
up again so as to pass that Point at the distance of a cable's
length, and anchor half a mile within it, in 3 or 4 fathoms at low
water.

Six miles west from Point St. Giles, the shallow channels
between the Shoals unite in the inner entrance of the River,
which is there narrow and 4 fathoms deep. The Falls, where
the River discharges a great body of water down a narrow and
sloping channel between steep granite rocks, are 3 miles further
up in a N.W. direction, and a Iraat may approach close to
them.

The ebb runs out over the Manicouagon Bar to the eastward
at tlie rate of about l}j knots, and the flood is nearly as
strong.

FaUt.

Tidu,

POINT DE MONTS TO BERSIMIS RIVER.

131

rt of the

im Point
to 19 feet
les. The
)m8 sandy
J distance
he Mani-
1 boulders,
)ut in an
.nicouagon

> to be of
■ove of use
as for en-

t. Pancras,
same time.
lie head of
!., you will
I the same
of English
ile of Point
3 southward
w water off
)rth side of
1 ; then haul
if a cable's
loms at low

iw chaunels
f the River,
i'alls, where
narrow and
iiiles further
,ch close to

the eastward
8 nearly as

The Manicouagon Shoal is of sand, with many lai^e boulders ManL-omgon
scattered about its eastern and southern parts, and probably depo-
sited there by the ice. The most eastern point of this dangerous
and extensive Shoal is distant 2j miles from Point St. Giles in an Eattem Point.
E. S. E. direction, and 5J miles E. by N. from the N- E. :;nd of
Manicouagon Peninsula.

The bearing of S. W. by S. from Pancras Cove passes/ along
the eastern side of the Shoal, which is so bold that thnre are 60
fathoms of water at the distance of little more than 1 \ miles, and
40 fathoms at half that distance from the breakers. On this side
the Shoal dries nearly out to its edge in low tides. The south
point of the Shoal extends 2^ miles to the southward of Maui- Soiufieni Point.
couagon Point, and here only is there any sufficient warning by
the deep sea lead. With the extremes of Manicouagon Point
bearing from N. to N. W. by N., 60 fathoms over a bottom of
very fine sand will be found at the distance of 3j^ miles from the
3 fathom mark, to which the water shoals gradually, till close to
it, where there are 11 fathoms. The Shoal dries out in low tides,
in this part, and also further to the westward, from 1 to 1^ miles
from the beach.

The Shoal continues from its south point to the westward for W«/er« Point.
a distance of 16 miles, the outline of its edge corrcspon ling to the
shape of the sandy shore as far as Outard Point, off which it
extends to the southward 1 J miles, and, filling up all the eastern
part of Outard Bay, stretches out its western point fully 3j miles
W. by S. from Outard Point.

There is often a very heavy sea, particularly in a weather tide,
off this Shoal, but all the terrific accounts which have been cir-
culated of " strong and irregular eddies," in which vessels will
not answer their helms during a fresh gale of wind, " and can
with difficulty be kept from running on the bank, or driving
against each other," are entirely unfounded. But without that
exaggeration a shoal which extends so far from a low part of the
coast, which is difficult to be made out at night, and which has
such deep water close to it, must be sufficiently dangerous to
demand the utmost prudence and vigilance of the seaman, without
alarming him with imaginary perils. The tides are tolerably re- TulfK awl lli/i.
gular, and not very strong along the Shoal. I do not think that l''"'9''
the rate of either tide exceeds 2 knots at any time, and I am
certain that it is usually much less. But great ripplings arc met

132

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

Atniiicoiiaffon
S/iua/.

Oiitaril River.

Fa/h.

with occasionally, both near the shoals, and in the offing, where
they are caused, as in other parts of the Estuary, by the unequal
velocities or the opposing directions of the streams, as will be readily
imagined when it is remembered that the current is always down
on the south side, slack in the middle, and up during the flood on
the north side of the Estuary. (Art. 15.) These rij)plings are
very common off the eastern and southern parts of the Mani-
couagon Shoal, where I have observed them to move much faster
than the streams of the tides, as was evident by their passing by
the vessel in a calm. They often give to the tides the appearance
of a rapidity which does not exist.
Ouiard Point. Outard Point is 11 miles to the westward of the south extremity
of Manicouagon Point, and the shore between them is of low
sandy clifis, with a sandy beach.

Outard River flows on the north side of the Point of tlie
same name, and can be ascended by boats to the Falls, over
granitic rocks, which are 7 miles, N. E. by E., from the Point.
These Falls are only 1 J miles from the Manicouagon River. The
two rivers therefore form the low sandy country, between Points
Outard and Manicouagon, into a great peninsula, which has pro-
bably been produced by the rivers in the course of ages.

The entrance to Outard River is by several intricate and narrow
channels tlirough the western part of the Manicouagon Shonl, and
as there are only 2 or 3 feet of water through these channels at
low water, for the distance of 4 or 5 miles, the place is useless to
vessels, and therefore requires no further description.

The water of this River holds a white earth suspended, and
frequently covers the whole surface of Outard Bay, floating on the
heavier sea water beneath, and giving the whole Bay the apjjcar-
ance of being shoal. A vessel sailing through this superstratum
of fresh water displaces it, and leaves a blue streak in her wake.

OuTARO Bay, between Outard and Bcrsimis Points, has 3
small rocky islands in it, whicli appear as two from seaward, aiul
serve to distinguish the Bay to strangers ; they are far within the
edge of the shoals, which extend quite round the Bay, and occupy
tlip greater part of it, being a continuation of the Manicouagon
Shoal. The water in this Bay is too deep close to the shoal for
convenient iineliorngc, which is quite exposed to easterly winds.

Tlie anchorage is on the west side, of the Bay, in 14 fathoms at
low water, over muddy bottom, with Bersiuiis Point bearing

n'/iile Wattr

Outard Bay.

Anehorwic

POINT 1>E MONTS TO nERSIMIS RIVER.

133

r, where
unequal
e readily
ys down
flood on
lings are
le Mani-
ch faster
vssiug by
ipearance

extremity
is of low

nt of tlie
alls, over
he Point,
iver. The
eu Points
1 has pro-

nd narrow

Shoal, and

liannels at

useless to

ended, and
ting on the
he appear-
iperstratum
her wake,
ints, has 3
award, and
r within the
and occupy
[anicouagon
he shoal for
;rly winds.
i fathoms nt
)int bearing

S. W. by S. 3:^ miles. Manicouagon Point will then be open Outant Dui/.

3 or 4 degrees to the s" ..vard of Outard Point, the south side

of which will bear E. by N., the first rocky point north-eastward

of the river N. by W., and the vessel will be nearly half a mile

from the 3 fatliom edge of the shoal on the west side of the Bay ;

small vessels may lie closer in 7 or 8 fathoms.

In standing in for this anchorage with a westerly wind, beware
of the bar of Bersimis River, which is extremely steep. If you
can make out the first rocky point to the north-eastward of, the
River, and which bears from its entrance N. N. E. 4j miles, take
care that it does not bear to the eastward of north, and you will
clear the bar. When you have past it, you may haul in to the
northward into soundings, going no nearer than 10 fathoms.

Vessels may anchor for a distance of three-quarters of a
mile on either side of the position which I have pointed out,
either further out to the S. S. W. towards Bersimis Point, or
towards the small islands to the N. E., but the berth which I
have indicated is the best. The tides are not strong in Outard
Bay.

Bersimis River enters the sea to the eastward, and If miles Bersimis
N. E. from the south extremity of the Point of the same name. "''^'^'
The south side of entrance of the River for more than three-
quarters of a mile is of low and bare sand. The opposite point of
entrance is also of sand, and bears N.N.W. at the distance of
rather more than a mile from the south point, but this wide
mouth of the River is closed by sands dry at low water with the
exception of a very narrow channel. The River within for the
first 3 miles is wide and full of sand shoals.

The Bar is of sand, which dries in parts at low water, and Bar.
shifts frequently, being completely exposed to southerly and
easterly gales ; it extends nearly \\ miles to the eastward of the
south point of entrance. Directions for entering the River must
therefore be useless ; but it may be as well to remark, that within
the bar the channel is always close to the south point of entrance,
and keeps on that side through the wide part within with a deptli
of 9 feet at low water. The depth that could be carried in
over tlie bar, in the month of July, was 6 feet at low water, and
from 13 to 18 feet at high water, according as it niighi l)e neap
or spring tides.

This River (Hsiiiarget. a great volume of water, especially in

i; H

134

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

Timber.

rv,

"' ■;

esEn

(t. ■ ir i

jjjl^vi

15- '

Tides in the
Rivtr,

the spring of the year, and the water is fresh enough for drinking,
when the tide is out, 2 miles within its entrance.
Bemmis FuUs. The Bersimis River is navigable to the Falls, which are 30 or
40 feet high, and over granitic rocks. These i^alls are distant -
30 miles N.W. iN., in a direct line from the south point of
entrance ; but the distance is nearly 40 miles by following the
windings of the river. The banks of the river are high and
precipitous, being either of granite or cliffs of sand and gravel over
clay. The basins and valleys between the hills are filled with
these last-named deposits, which support a heavy-growth of trees
of the pine and spruce species. There is good timber to be met
with occasionally. The breadth of the river varies from 100 to 300
fathoms, and its depth is usually from 2 to 5 fathoms : there is a
place in which the depth amounts to 12 fathoms; but 2 fathoms
is as much as could be carried up to the foot of the Falls.

The stream of the flood tide is felt 10 miles up the river; and
6 miles up the channel is contracted by shoals of sand and
boulders to the breadth of 50 fathoms for the distance of 1 mile.
Through this narrow part the ebb runs 4 knots ; above it, the rate
of the current is from 1 to 2^ knots. Boats could row up this
River to the foot of the Falls, and a steamer could ascend it with
ease ; but the winds are generally too light and baffling between
its high banks for a sailing vessel.

57. Bersimis Point is low, of sand, wooded with spruce trees,
and difficult to be seen at night. On its east side, the low south
point of the river extends to the distance of two miles from the
trees, and the Bar 1:^ miles further ; and to the southward, the
sand shoal extends three-quarters of a mile from the sandy beach,
yet it is so bold that the lead affords no warning, there being 60
fathoms muddy bottom at the distance of a mile from the edge of
the shoal. On the east and west sides of the Point the shoals are
equally steep, so that this Point is very dangerous, especially to
vessels beating at night or in foggy weather. From the south
extremity of Bersimis Point, Manicouagon Point bears E.N.E. iE.
21 miles ; and Point Mille Vaches S.W. byW. JW. 29 miles. In
all this last-named distance, if the extreme points be excepted,
vessels will find, by reference to the chart, that the soundings off
the sliore afford some warninc;, although there are parts where
^jvciit ciuition is necessary.

TIic tidcB arc regular, but the flood is rather stronger tiian the

lieriimis
I'oiHi.

BERSIMIS RIVER TO THE SAGUENAY.

135

Colomlier,

ebb within 6 miles from the shore, where the rate of either, Tidt»offBet-
as far as I have seen, never exceeds Ij^ knots, and is often
much less.

The low sandy shore continues 5j miles W.|N. from Bersimis Jeremy hland.
Point to Jeremy Island, which is very small, rocky, and close
to the shore. There is a trading post of the Hudson Bay Com-
pany on the main, the buildings of which can usually be seen,
but if not, its position will always be known by some patches
of white sand and clay cliffs, which are close to the eastward of
the island. Vessels may stand in by the lead, and anchor off this
place; but it is a bad anchorage, and the shoal water extends
a mile out from the shore.

Cape Colombier, 5 miles from Jeremy, along a rocky and Cape
broken shore, in a S.W. by W. JW. direction, is a rocky peninsula,
with a small islet on its west side.

The Gulnare Shoal, discovered by us in 1830, is a narrow Gulnare
ridge of granite rock nearly 2 miles long, parallel to the shore, and "" *
having from 2 to 3 fathoms over it at low water. The S.W. end of
•his Shoal bears S.byE., and its N.E. end S.E. byE.^E. from
Cape Colombier, from which they are distant If miles. The
inner or north side of Laval Island nearly on with Point Orient,
the east point of the Bale de Laval, and bearing west, leads clear
outside of this Shoal at the distance of 2 cables' length, and in
20 fathoms of water. It is very dangerous, there being 23 fathoms
close to the S. W. end, and also along its southern side. There
are 4 or 5 fathoms between it and the shore.

Wild Fowl Reef, S.W. byW.^W., 4 miles from Cape WW Fow/
Colombier, is a large bed of rocks, extending three-quarters of *'"^"
a mile from the shore between Plongeur Bay and the Baie de
Laval. There are 9 fathoms off this Reef at the distance of
one-third of a mile.

Plongeur Bat, between that Reef and Cape Colombier, may Plongeur Bay.
be known by a round and rocky peninsula on its west side.
The inner part of this Bay is full of rocks dry at low water, and
the whole Bay is shoal out to the line joining Wild Fowl Reef
and Cape Colombier.

Vessels should be careful in standing in towards the part o{ /Approach to
this coast from Wild Fowl Reef to the Gulnare Shoal inclusive :
30 fathoms is quite near enough, as they will see by the sdiuidings
in the chart. But to the south-westward (jf the Reef, until

I' i

13C

KJVER ST. I AWRKNCK.

(fr-..

■r»

■*^'

within 2 miles of Port Ncuf, they may stand in to (i fathoms
at low water with safety.

littie tie Laval. The Baie de Laval, 4 miles west from the Wild Fowl Reef,
and 8^ miles N. E.byN. from Port Neuf, will be known by the
rocky island in its mouth, and by the clay cliffs which commence
1^ miles to the S. W. of it, and continue to within the same
distance of Port Neuf.

This Bay within the island is all dry at low water. Vessels may
safely stand in towards it, the water shoaling gradually from 10
fathoms, which is at the distance of 2j miles from the shore.

There is a good anchorage in 6 or "7 fathoms, over clay bottom,
off the clay cliffs above mentioned.

Port Keiif. ^^ Port Neuf there is a fur-trading and salmon-fishing estab-

lishment, belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, who have
a lease of the seignory of Port Neuf. At this post, which stands
upon a steep sandy bank, and is 4 miles to the N. E. of Point
Mille Vaches, there is a small wooden church for the Indians, a
dwelling-house, a store, and several smaller buildings. These
can readily be seen by a vessel off the coast.

S. S. E. from the church, and distant nearly three-quarters of a
mile, is the S.W. end of a low and narrow sandy peninsula, with
a clump of pine or spruce trees upon it, and which extends
nearly 2 miles to the N.N. E., where it joins the sand and clay
cliffs, which have been previously mentioned.

The entrance to Port Neuf River is from the S. W., and
between this sandy peninsula and the post on the main land,
but is so shallow that a boat cannot enter it at low water. At the
junction of the peninsula with the sand and clay cliffs, the River
turns abruptly inland : its sandy channel is too shallow for a boat
at low water below that turn; and at the distance of I ^ miles
above it rapids commence. Fronx 1 to 12 feet water may be
carried in at high water between the peninsula and the main
land, according as it may be neap or spring tide, and a small
vessel may lie safely aground on the sand.

Sand Paiuh. E. by N. from the S. W. end of the sand and clay cliffs,

N. E.byE. ^E. from the church at Port Neuf, and l^- miles
from the cliffu, lies a patch of sand, with 3J fathoms least water,
which might l)c dangerous to a large vessel in a heavy sea. This
may be considered as the conunenccnient of the Port Ncuf and
Millr Vadics Shoals.

I'orl Neuf
River.

IlERSIMIS RIVER TO THK SAGUENAY.

137

The Port Neuf Sands are exceedingly steep on every bearing Port Neuf
to the southward of east from Port Neuf, and to the eastward of *"'"'*•
south from Point Mille Vaches. Off Port Neuf they extend
three-quarters of a mile out from the sandy peninsula.

Half way between Port Neuf and Point Mille Vaches is the
widest part of these sands, which there extend 1 J miles from the
beach. There are from 20 to 30 fathoms close along their edge,
and from 40 to 50 fathoms at the distance of 1 mile.

58. Point Mille Vaches is low, sandy, and wooded with M//e Faches
spruce trees. From its south extremity the N. W. reef of Bicquette
l)eins S. S. E.i E , 12j miles ; and the navigable breadth of the
channel is diminished by the Mille Vaches Shoals to little more
than 11^ miles. As the dangers on either side are so bold, and as
the course of a vessel running up the Estuary must ever be more
or less uncertain in consequence of the set of the tides and currents,
tliis pass is justly considered dangerous to a vessel running up in
dark nights or foggy weather. The only safe mode of proceeding,
under such circumstances, is that which I have recommended in
Art. 25.

The Bay of Mille Vaches, on the west side of the point of MiUe luchei
the same name, is very large, with several small rivers, which
descend by falls or rapids down the granitic shores. The prin-
cipal of these rivers is the Sault de Mouton, 4^ miles west from
the Point, and which has a fall of 80 feet visible from a vessel
when abreast of it. All the interior of this Bay is occupied by
shoals of sand, mud, and large boulders, which dry at low
water.

In the western part of it the shoals are extremely steep and
dangerous, but from where the Sault de Mouton bears north
to where Point Mille Vaches comes upon the same bearing, com-
prising a space of 4^ miles, there is a complete warning by the
lead ; the depth being 30 fathoms upwards of 2 miles from the
3 fathom edge of the shoals.

There is anchorage in this Bay in 15 fathoms, sand and mud Anchorage.
bottom, with the south extremity of Point Mille Vaches, or with
the inner or north side of the pine trees on the peninsula of Port
Neuf, bearing N. E. i E. at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the
Point, and three-quarters of a mile from the shoals. The shelter
is from S. W. by W. round by north to N. E. by E. The ground is
good and there is not much tide.

138

'titi

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

Etqudmne
Jiieli,

Tide*.

Qrtat and
little Berge-
ron Covet.

The course and distance across the Bay of Mille Vaches to two
large rocks, which have three small ones nearly a mile to the S. W.
of them, and are called the Esquamine Islets, is S. W. | W.,
nearly 12 miles. ,..i t. . • r

The coast to the south-westward, from the Esquamine Islets to
Little Bergeron, a distance of 16 miles, consists of granite rock,
steep and bold, and free from all danger, excepting a flat which
occupies a bay on the west side of Cape Bondeair, but which doet
not extend above a quarter of a mile outside of a line joining the
points of the bay, and is consequently very little in the way of
vessels. There are upwards of 53 fathoms water close to the
rocks along this part of the coast.

The tides are regular, increasing in strength as we approach
the comparatively narrow pass on either side of Red Islet.
The flood is the stronger tide of the two, the ebb being deflected
over towards the southern shore by the stream out of the great river
Saguenay. The flood does not extend above 5 or 6 miles off the
north shore below Bergeron, and the closer to that shore the
stronger is the stream. Its rate at Point Mille Vaches, where
it does not extend far off-shore, is from 1-^ to 2 knots; and off
Bergeron from 2 to 3 knots, in spring tides.

Great and Little Bergeron are two coves separated by
a point. They are both full of large boulders, which dry at low
water, and have small streams at their heads. Little Bergeron is
of the two the most to the S. W. From it Green Island light
bears S. byE.J^E. llj^ miles, and the Saguenay Cliffs, at the
cast point of entrance of the River, S. W. by W. 5j^ miles.

I terminate this chapter at Little Bergeron, because the shoals
off the entrance of the Saguenay, and the passage between them
and Red Islet, belong, according to the arrangement which
I have adopted, to Part the Second of these Directions.

GULF FROM LAKE ISLAND TO NATASHQUAN.

139

(Sf.f .< '--It,

CHAPTER VII.

THE NORTH COAST OF TUB GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE, FROM LAKK
ISLAND TO THE RIVER ST. JOHN, INCLUDING THE MINGAN
ISLANDS.

where

5'J. General Description of the Coast, from Lake Island to Natashquan
Point.— 60. Whittle Rocks, Wolf Bay and Islands.— 61. Coacoacho Bay
and its Harbours. — 62. Olomanoshuebo, Wash-shecootai, and Miis-
quarro. — 63. Kegashka Bay. Kegashka River, and the Coast between
it and Natashquan Point. Mont Joli. Cod Banks. — 64. General
Description uf the Coast from Natashquan Fbint to the Mingan Islands.
— 65. Natashquan River, Little Natashquan Harbour, Washtawooka,
Agwanus, and Nabesippi Rivers. Pashasheebo. Mushkoniatawee.
Washatnaguuashka. Watcheeshoo. Quetachoo-Manicouagun. Peash-
tebai. Appeeletat. — 66. The Mingan Islands, general Description.
— 67. St. Genevieve and Hunting Islands. T^e Saints. Bowen
Rocks. The Harbours of St. Genevieve and Betchewun. — 68. Charles
Island and the Bays on either side of it. Charles Harbour. — 69. Clear-
water Shoals. Walrus and Sea-Cow Islands with the Channels
leading to Esquimaux Harbour. Green, Gull, Esquimaux, Fright, and
Quin Islands, with their Reefs, and the Channels between them.
Quin Channel. — 70. Esquimaux Harbour. — 71. Niapisca Island.
Quarry Island, and Cove. Quarry Channel. Large Island. Middle
Reef. Birch Islands. Mingun Island. The Perroquets. — 72. Mingan
Channel between the Islands and the Main. Mingan Harbour. Long
Point to St. John River.

59. From Cape Whittle, the S.W. point of Lake Island, to Coaiifium
Natashquan Point, the course is S. 85° i W. true, or N. 66* W. ',^'sJ^'X^an.
magnetic, and the distance 63 miles. With the exception of the
first 13 miles eastward of Natashquan Point, where the shore is
of sand, this coast is of granite, which rises into steep hills and
ridges, with rounded summits, having between them morasses
and stagnant ponds. The mainland is seldom higher tlian 200
feet, even in the heads of the bays, and it diminishes in height
luwnrdts the sen, ns do also the innumerable small islands, isletH,
nnd rockd, which fringe the coast, and which in some parts extend
fully 5 miles from the nearest point of the mainland. The islands

p' T

1 '

>■■

S I

m ^

S f

i; 1

■■"1 , s

C,:: '.

t '.

« i'

c ;

*■,

^ •

t ■

tr>

P !t

i >«

•

140

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE,

Ihfficull to
recognize.

The Rocks are
sterp to.

Tidea.

arc bare of wood, and so also is the main, excepting up the bays
or where sandy tracts occur, which are always covered with a
thick growth of spruce, with occasional birch and poplar.

Seen from the distance of 4 or 5 leagues, this coast presents an
outline so little diversified, that it is nearly impossible to dis-
tinguish one part of it from another; and it is only when a vessel
approaches within 3 or 4 miles of the outer rocks, that its broken
and dangerous nature becomes apparent.

The outer rocks, both above and under water, are so bold that
there is no warning from the use of the hand-lead ; but, there are
soundings with the deep sea-lead in moderate, but irregular, depths
off every part of this coast. These deep water soundings are too
irregular to admit of a concise description ; I must, therefore,
refer to the chart, with the remark, that they are sufficient to
warn a vessel of her approach towards danger at night, or in fogs,
sine? these depths do not amount to 50 fathoms at any less distance
than 5 miles from the outer rocks.

The tides are weak, irregular, and influenced, both in their
strength and direction, by the winds. For the time of high water
on the full and change days, and the rise of the tide at different
places, see table at the end of the book
*»'Ai«/c RocAi. 60. There are many small rocks above and under water, off to
the southward and westward from Cape Whittle. The two outer-
most of these, which are half-tide rocks, are distant from the
cape 2^ miles, and are called the Whittle Rocks. All these
rocks are steep, with from 20 to 40 fathoms uf water between
tlicm, and small fishing and egging schooners find their way
among them, as they do almost everywhere among the islands and
rocks of this coast, being guided by the eye ; for every danger
u|'on which such small veisBcls would strike can be seen in clear
weather.

Woi.K Bay, the first to the westward of Cajie Whittle, is 6 or 7
miles deep. There is plenty of water in its intricate channels,
and no dangers that do not show, but a number of rocks and
ledges extend across its mouth from Cape Whittle to Wolf Is'-^nd,
and are bo ncattered about that no directions would be of the least
use. If ever any circunistunces should render it desirnblc fur ii
vessel to enter so dangerous a place, it can (tiiiy In; done by look-
ing out fur the ledges from the must-head, or fore-yard, in fine

H'utf Buy.

LAKE ISLAND TO NATASHQUAN.

141

the bays
1 with a

esents an
e to dis-
n a veesel
ts broken

bold that
, there are
ar, depths
igB are too
therefore,
ifficient to
or in fogs,
38 distance

th in their
[ligh water
it different

ater, off to
two outer-
t from the

All these
•r between

their way
islands and
ery danger
:en in clear

tie, is 6 or 7
e channels,
rocks and
Volf Isi<nd,
of the least
iriihlc for u
)iic by look-
ird, in fine

clear weather, or by avoiding the broken water when there is a
heavy sea running. .....

Wolf Island may be easily recognized, being higher and larger Woif Island. *
than the outer islands usually are off this part of the coast. It . , ^^ ,(.
is about three-quarters of a mile long, and makes in two hills, >'

which are about 150 feet high.

Outer Islet is small, low, and about 1 mile further off to the S. W. Onier hiet.
than Wolf Island. As its name implies it is the outermost of a
chain of islands, which extends 4 or 5 miles out from the point
of the mainland dividing Wolf and Coacoacho Bays. It bears
W. N. W. i W. 7 miles from Cape Whittle.

61. Coacoacho Bay is the only place affording anchorage Comoacho Hai/.
to large vessels upon this part of the coast. It is not at all
difficult of entrance, although the number of islets and rocks in
every direction make it appear so. There is an excellent harbour
in the head of the bay, called the Basin, and another formed
y an arm running into the E. by N. and named Tertiary Shell
Jay, which is equally safe. Further out than these harbours
the bay is more than half a mile wide, and quite sufficiently
sheltered from the sea, for the safety of any vessel with good
anchors and cables. Coacoacho means a great owl.

To enter this bay, attend to the following description and
directions ; Outer Islet, Wolf Island, a d the islets and rocks
between them and the mainland, may be considered as forming
the south-eastern side of the bay ; and the Audubon Islets and
Rocks, as forming the north-western side of the bay. The
entrance of the bay is, therefore, between the two extreme points,
which beiir from each other N. by W. and S. by E., and are
distant about 2i^ miles.

There are two small and dangerous ledges outside, off the en-
trance of the buy. The first, which is culled tlic South Breaker, Souih Itrenkev,
shows only in heavy wcatlier, and has 12 feet least water. It bears
W. N. W. JW. 2 miles from Outer Islet, and there is a clear channel
between it and the islet. It lies furtiier out than any other danger
off tiiis division nf the coast, and has from 18 to 20 fatiioms of
watrr all round and close to it.

The S. W. Ureiiker has only 3 feet least water, and l)ears N. W. South- H'rtt
hyN., 2i miles from the Sonlli Breaker, und west, 2J miles from
Point Audubon, 'i'iu'ie is a clear and deep channel between these
two ledges, which may be eioiily avoided liy the cimrt, or if tl\e

■i

142

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

weather be clear they will be readily seen from the fore-yard of
any vessel.
DireeHont/or In running for Coacoacho Bay from the S. E., steer so as to leave
''^' Outer Islet, and the rocks to the northward of it, about 300
fathoms to the eastward of you. When abreast of these rocks,
you will see, right ahead, a chain of low rocks, which project to
the S. W. from Emery Island. Bring the point of this chain
to bear N. £. 1 N., when it will appear on with the extreme point
of the mainland on the N. W. side near the head of the bay.
Steer in upon this leading mark, or bearing, until you are past
some rocks which lie 600 fathoms from the east side of the
^.udubon Islets. These rocks are dry at low water, and can always
be seen. You must leave these rocks on your larboard or N. W.
aide, and, having passed them, haul to the northward a little, so
as to leave the Emery Rocks, which are quite bold, on your S. E.
or starboard side. Their outer point bears N. N. E. i E. 3 miles
from Outer Islet, and when up to them you will see the bay
open before you, and clear of danger. The bottom, outside, is
either of rocks or sand, with a depth of from 12 to 30 fathoms ;
but as soon as you arrive within the points of the mainland,
just within Emery Island, you will find mud bottom, with a
depth of from 10 lo 20 fathoms. The further in, the better the
ground, and the less the swell with S. W. winds, which are the
only winds that send any swell into the bay. i-.- ' «

If you wish to run into Tertiary Shell Bay there is nothing in
your way excepting a small rock above water, a quarter of a mile
within the entrance, which you must leave on your starboard hand;
and which, like the shores on either side, is quite bold. This bay
is not more than 120 fathoms wide, half a mile from the entrance,
but it becomes wider within, with from 5 to 11 fathoms wat'. rover
mud bottom, and is there perfectly land locked.

In running in for the Basin keep the N. W. side of the
bay on board, leaving the entrance of Tertiary Shell Bay, and a
point of low rocks to the northward of it, which are nearly joined
to the shore, to the eastward, until you approach within half a
mile of the island in the head of the bay. Yon must then steer
over to the eastward, towards that island, to avoid a shoal of boul-
der stones which extends nearly 200 fathoms off the west side of
the bay. The channel between this shual and the island is only
100 fathoms wide, but deep enough for the largest ships. Give

Tertiary Shell
linn.

The Raun iff
Cuacoacho,

LAKE ISLAND TO NATASHQUAN.

143

•e-yard of

w to leave
ibout 300
lese rocks,
project to
this chain
reme point
f the bay.
1 are past
ide of the
can always
lorN.W.
a little, so
your S. E.
E. 3 miles
;e the bay
outside, is
) fathoms ;
: mainland,
im, with a
; better the
lich are the

nothing in
T of a mile
loard hand;
This bay
le entrance,
8 wat'.r over

side of the
Bay, end a
early joined
ithin half a
It then steer
loal of bonl-
west side of
land is only
liips. Give

the island a berth of 50 fathoms, leaving it tc the eastward or on
the starboard hand, and as you pass through you will deepen your
water from 9 to 19 fathoms, the latter depth being just within- the
island. As soon as you are past the inner end of the island haul
to the N, W., into the mouth of a small bay ; and you will soon
shoal your water to 8 fathoms, muddy bottom, where you must
anchor, and you will be perfectly sheltered from every wind. The
basin becomes quite shoal immediately above this anchorage,
where there is another island lying in the entrance of Coacoacho
River.

On the east side of the entrance of the river there is a house
at which two men, who are engaged in the ftir trade and salmon
fishery, generally reside. This small river flows through a wide
and shallow channel full of boulders ; its shores are wooded with
spruce trees, and water may be obtained near the trading post.

In running for Coacoacho Bay from the westward, you may
either pass between the S. W. and South Breakers, by bringing the
inner or N. £. end of Wolf Island to bear east, and steering for
it ; or by bringing Outer Island to bear nothing to the southward
of east, and running towards it, until you are within less than a
mile, when you may haul in for the Emery Rocks, as before
directed.

There is very little stream of tide in Coacoacho Bay, but a
weak and irregular stream of flood and ebb sets through between
the islands.

62. The coast, for the first 4 leagues westward of Coacoacho,
is formed of innumerable islets and rocks to Olomanosheebo, or
Point River, which is called also by the Canadians, "La Ro-
maine." This is a considerable river, falling 20 feet over granite
into the head of a bay 4 miles deep, but so shoal that boats can
scarcely enter it at low water. There is a trading post of the
Hudson Bay Company on the east side near the falls, neither of
which can be seen from the sea, being hidden by the islands ; but
the place may be known by the low sandy clifls, thickly wooded
with spruce trees, on either side of the entrance of the bay.

Treble Islet, and the Loon Rocks, lie to the westward, the
latter at the distance of 6 miles from the alwve bay. The Loon
Rocks, which can always be seen, are distant 3 miles from the
nearest point of the mainland, and arc the uutcrniost danger off
this part of the cntist.

Coacoacho
River.

Ifooit and
Water.

South and
S. W.
Brtakeri.

Tides.

Olomano-
sheebo River,

Treble IiM.
Loon Rocks,

:■)

K^'3'

K ■,>

^«|'

ri'

H-

.«■- '

jB " ''

!».;

■f'

«i;

M:'

!.'l'

**'^

Kite

144

Waih-she-
noottti Half,

Cloudberry
I'oinl.

Aftifrjiinrro
Rivei:

Cur/em Point.

Krgiifhka
lt,„j.

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. :,

Wash-shecootai (which means Cloudberry) Bay lies 10 miles
to the westward of Olomanosheebo, is 2^ miles wide, and has off
its entrance several small rocky ledges that make it very difficult of
entrance. Cloudberry Point is the west point of this bay, and is
formed by the mainland. The east point of the bay is formed by
small rocks and islets. At the distance of 3 miles within Cloud-
berry Point this bay contracts to a very narrow inlet, having several
rocks and islets in it, and from 4 to 2^ fathoms water over muddy
bottom, for the first 4 miles up ; after which it becomes shallow
for 4 miles further, to the falls of a considerable river, where there
is a trading post and salmon fishery of the Hudson Bay Company.

This inlet is completely open to winds from the southward and
westward, and affords scarcely any shelter for the first 5 miles
within Cloudberry Point. Vessels of considerable burthen might
find shelter in it in time of need, but it is too intricate a place fur
the general purposes of navigation, or for any written directions
to be of avail. Coasting schooners, which know where to look for
all the ledges, enter it by keeping a person at the mast-head,
or in the rigging.

MusQUARRO River, where there is a Hudson Bay Company
trading and fishing post, is 4^ miles westward of Cloudberry
Point, and is situated 3 miles within the west point of a bay, full
of small islets and rocks.

This river becomes rapid a short distance within the entrance ;
6 feet can be carried in at low water, but it is a very intricate and
dangerous place ; useless excepting to boats, or very small
schooners. It will be known by the houses which are on the
east side of the entrance, and also by a remarkable red and pre-
cipitous ridge of granite, about 200 feet high, and about 2 miles
to the westward of the river.

Curlew Point, at half a mile oft' which there are several low
bare rocks, and ledges which always show, is 45 miles to the west-
ward of Musquarro, and it is the east point of Kegashka Bay.

63. Kegasuka Bay, situated between Curlew and Kegashka
Point, is 3 miles wide, and IJ^ miles deep. In the western half
of this bay there are several small islets, too wide apart to afford
much shelter from the sea. It is only in the N. W. corner of the
buy, within Kegashka Point, that u vessel can be secure fronj
soutlicrly winds ; there is room there for several snuiU schouuers,
))\it for only one vessel of the size of a sloop of war, and she must

••k

LAKE ISLAND TO NATASHQUAN.

145

10 miles
I has uir
fficult of
I, and is
rmed by
1 Cloud-
g several
ir muddy
I shallow
lere there
Jompany.
ward and
; 5 miles
len might
, place for
directions
look for
nast-head,

Company
;loudbcrry
a bay, full

entrance ;
ricate and
ery small
ire on the
and pic-
lut 2 miles

evcral low
o the west-
ifi Bay.

Kcgashka
estorn hiilf
rt to afford
irncr of the
ecure from

schoonerB,
d she nmsl

he moored with an open hawse to the eastward, with a third Ker/nxhha Haif.

anchor on-shore to the S. \V., so as to be able to haul in close

under the point when it blows hard from the southward. The

depth of water within the islets is from 4 to 6 fathoms over fine ..."

sandy bottom.

Altogether, I consider this as a wild place, although small ves-
sels may con*Tive ^" "lelter themselves there sufficiently to run
but little rie ••iriU|, summer months.

Wood and water may be obtained without difficulty in the Wood and HU-
western part of the bay. ''^'

Kegashka Point is formed by an island, separated from a KegashknPoinU
rocky peninsula by a very narrow channel, dry at low water ;
and the peninsula is united to the mainland by a narrow sandy
isthmus covered with grass. Both the island and peninsula arc
distinguished by being partly covered with spruce trees. There
are also a few spruce trees on an islet, three-quarters of a mile to
the westward of the point, and as no other islands on this part of
the coast are wooded, the bay may be recognized by that circum-
stance. There is a fine sandy beach, and low sandy cliffs in the
N. W. corner of the bay: and there are also similar cliffs for
about a mile to the westward of the isthmus above mentioned.
This sandy tract is densely wooded with dwarf spruce, another
circumstance which serves to distinguish this bay, and is the
origin of its name, which signifies impenetrable' woods. On a
near approach the place will also be known by Green Island, which
is of low granite covered with grass, and is the outermost and
largest islet sheltering the bay : being about 300 fathoms in
diameter, and situated three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of
Kegashka Point. There are several small islets and rocks within,
end also to the eastward of Green Island, and one small and low
black islet between it and the inner part of Kegashka Point.

The safest channel into Kegashka bay is between this lust nti>i enimnce
named islet, and Kegashka Point, 170 fiithnms wide, and 8 iiauf*" "
fathoms deep. The other channels have dangers in them, but
this is quite clear, and the only direction necessary when coming
from the westward is to give the south extremity of Kegashkrt
Point a berth of a quarter of a mile, or to go no nearer than
8 fathoms : then run along the cast side of the point, which
is quite bold, leaving all the islets on your starboard hiind. A
distance of thrcc-tiuarters of a mile on a N. E. AN. couisc will

146

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Kegathka Bay.

4
"I

1;*

i:l»i'Jt

Approach from
the eautward.

Kfgaahia Ri'
ver.

Shoal lo the
Ea»tward of
Nalaahquan
Point,

anil Cod
Hank off the
Point.

Munt Joti,

bring you to the narrow channel before mentioned, between the
westermost islet and the inner end of Kegashka Point. Haul
round the latter to the north-westward at the distance of half a
cable, and when within it, not more than the same distance, let go -
your anchor in 5 fathoms, and secure your vessel by mooring, as
has been before mentioned.

When approaching Kegashka from the eastward, give the low
and small islets oflF Curlew Point a berth of half a mile, to avoid
the ledges off them, which dry at low water : then steer N. W.
^ N., or so as to pass outside of Green Island, going no nearer
than 100 fathoms. Continue on that course till the inner or
N. E. extremity of Kegashka Point bears north, which will be a
distance of rather more than 3 J miles from the ledges off Curlew
Point; then haul in, and pass between the point and the
westermost islet, as before directed, giving the south side of that
islet « Vieith of at least a cable's length.

Kegashka Bay has this advantage, that there are no ledges, or
other dangers aff its entrance : so that a vessel is no sooner out-
side of Kegashka Point than she has a clear sea before her. .;,.-.,v:

Kegashka River has falls 40 feet high, and a fishing station
of the Hudson Bay Company a mile within its entrance ; neither
the falls nor the house can be seen from the sea. This river,
affording shelter only for boats, is 3 miles to the west'vard of the
bay of the same name. '^

At the distance of 2i miles further westward fine sandy
beaches, in front of sandy cliffs, 10 or 80 feet high, and a country
thickly wooded with spruce trees, commence and continue to Na-
tashquan Point, a distance of 13^ miles.

Three miles westward from the east end of the sandy beach,
and 1^ mileu off shore at Long River, (a small stream,) there is
a shoal which has not been examined, but on which breakers have
been observed. Go no nearer to the shore than 17 fathoms, and
you will avoid it.

One and a half miles to the S. W., from the S. W. extremity of
Natashquan Point, lies a small Cod Bank, with little more than
4 fathoms at low water, over gravel bottom. i .d >^

Mont Jom, mentioned in all former remark books, has no
existence, nt least there is no mountain, nor even anything that
deserves the name of a hill ; but near the termination of the
sandy cliffs, which cud at the S. W. extremity of Natashquan

the

NATASHQUAN.

JUh

147

len the
Haul
half a
;, let go-
ring, as

the low
to avoid
rN.W.
nearer
nner or
(vill be a
• Curlew
and the
> of that

edges, or
oner out- ,
ler. «r.„s
tg station
; neither
his river,
ird of the

le sandy
a country
ue to Na-

dy beach,
,) there is
kers have
loms, and

tremity of
more than

:8, has no
^thing that
ion of the
Utaahquau

Point, the sandy ridge with spruce trees rises into a slight * • . (v-,..,t,' a
mound, a very little higher than the rest of the country. This is
Mont Joli ; but so little remarkable in its appearance that we
should not have noticed it, had it not been fc :ts name. .•'i'f-J

Parallel to the coast from Musquarro to Natashquan, and at Cod Banh.
distances varying from 6 to 11 miles, there are banks of saud,
gravel, and broken shells, on which the depth of water is various, \ "^"\ '

between 24 and 40 fathoms. There is more than 50 fathoms of
water in some parts, between these banks and the shore. Codfish
are often caught in abundance upon these banks, principally by
American schooners.

The remarkable sandy promontory of Natashquan Point is NaimUquan
the most southern point on the north coast of the Gulf, to the " '
eastward of the Seven Islands, and seems naturally to separate
the eastern division of the coast, which has been the subject of
the preceding articles of this Chapter, from that further to the
westward. As a concluding remark to the above account of the
eastern division, it may be said that though there are few coasts
more dangerous either to a vessel unacquainted with its nature, or
unaware of its proximity in a dark night, or thick fog ; yet witli
the assistance of the chart, due caution, and a constant use of the
deep sea-lead, it may be approached with safety ; und that a vessel
may even stand close in to the outer rocks and breakers on a
clear sunny day, provided there be a trusty person aloft to look
out for shallow water, for the bottom can be seen in 4 or 5
fathoms of water.

64> From the south extremity of Natashquan Point, the east Coast from Na-
point of Anticosti bears S. J^ E. true, 57 miles : so that the next 'i^*/'',"," '" '*'
division of the coast, which shall now be described, may be
considered as forming part of the north shore of the channel to
the northward of Anticosti. From the south extremity of Natash-
quan Point to Collins Shoal, the outer danger off St. Genevieve
Island, the course is N. 84° J W. true, or N. W. by W. magnetic,
52 miles. The coast included in this distance is low near the
sea, rising a short distance back into mounds and ridge^, but no-
where exceeding 400 feet in height. It is composed of primary
rocks, with the exception of a sandy tract at the Agwanus and
Nabesippi Rivers. The sandy tracts arc always thickly wooded
with spruce trees, and the country generally is here less bare
than it is further to the eastward.

148

V-?. Ml

I'm*-

Current.

Tides.

NalaihquaH
Hirer,

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

The coast is broken into numerous coves and small bays,
affording shelter everywhere to boats, and occasionally to very
small schooners. The small and bare islets and rocks are innu-
merable along it, but nowhere extend further out from the points,
of the mainland than 2 miles. . .- 7, »>...:.

When there is a heavy sea ruiming, all these dangers show, or
they can be seen from the mast-head in clear weather : but under
other circumstances, 20 fathoms is as near to them as a vessel
ought to approach, that depth being in many places not more
than a mile from the outer ledges.

The banks of sand, gravel, and broken shells, which extend
off this coast for many miles, and the deep water channel between
them and Anticosti, have been already mentioned in art. 22, and
the soundings upon them are too irregular to admit of any other
than the general description there given of them. I must therefore
refer to the charts, in which the various depths and nature of the
Iwttom are given in such a way as cannot fail to be of great as-
sistance to vessels navigating this channel.

The current down along the coast in westerly winds has also
been mentioned in articles 17 and 22; its rate seldom exceeds
half a knot, and is usually much less, so that a vessel can always
make way to windward in moderate weather.

In shore there are weak tidal streams too irregular to be de-
pended upon. It is however important to remark, that the flood
draws strongly into Natashquan River, and the bay at Little Na-
tashquan ; while the ebb sets strongly off Natashquan Point to
the S. E., and causes a very heavy sea upon the banks off it, in
southerly winds.

On approaching St. Genevieve, a strong in-draught of the flood
towards the channel, between that island a. d the main, will be
experienced ; and the ebb will be found setting strongly out in
the contrary direction : that is, to the S. E. The rate of these
streams seldom exceeds a mile per hour.

65 Natashquan River (the name signifying " where the
seals land") tutcrs the sea on the west side of the point of the
same name, and 3 miles nortli-westward from its south extremity.
The mouth of the river, between low sandy points, is fully a mile
wide, but nearly the whole of tliis space is occupied by a low
smidy island, having narrow channels on either side of it. The
northern channel is nearly dry al times, but the southern one has

re
t

*-^ NATASHQUAN. ''

149

lU bays,

to very

ire innit-

[le points.

1 show, or
)ut under
i a vessel
not more

ch extend
j1 between
t. 22. and
' any otber
t therefore
ture of the
~ great as-

ds has also
)m exceeds
can always

to be de-
it the Hood

Little Na-
in Point to
a off it, in

of the flood
lain, will be
ongly out in
ate of these

" where the
point of the
th extremity,
fully a mile
lied by a low
; of it. The
Lhcrn one iias

a depth of G feet at low water, and from 9 to 1 1 feet at high water,
according to neap and spring tides. There is the same depth
within, and small schooners may lie alongside the steep sandy
bank, where the houses of the Hudson Bay Company's trading
and fishing post stand, on the south side of the river, half a mile
within the entrance. The bar of sand, on which there is usually
a heavy surf, extends out three-quarters of a mile, and is exceed-
ingly steep to sea-ward, where 20 fathoms will be found within
a quarter of a mile. Codfish are taken in great numbers off^ this
bar in the month of June, and the river abounds with salmon.
Above the trading post the river is full of sand-banks, dry at low
water, and only navigable for boats for a few miles to the first
rapids ; above which it is said to be lost in a great morass, aboui
12 miles inland from the entrance. It discharges a great quantity
of water in the spring of the year. The sandy beach continues Liiife Saimh-
for 31 miles to the N. N. E. of the entrance, terminating at the '""" *''""'"'•
mouth of a small stream, called the Little ^atashquan, which
admits boats only at high water, and which is close to the east-
ward of the harbour of the same name.

■ Little Natashquan Harbour, formed by a number of islets tiitle Natash-
and rocks, is only fit for vessels not exceeding 100 tons, although ''""" '^'"■*"'"''
it has water enough for a sloop of war. The entrances, of which
there are two, formed by a reef of rocks in the centre, are not
more than 90 fathoms wide, between reefs, the extent of which
under water cannot be seen, because the water is discoloured by
the dark streams of the neighbouring rivers.

The depth that can be carried in at low water by the west
channel is 3 fathoms, and 5 fathoms by that which is between the
central reef and the islets on the east side. The space within the
reefs in which vessels can ride in from 3 to 5 fathoms, over sand
and mud bottom, is only 250 fathoms in diameter. This anchor-
age is defended by the main and islets from all winds excepting
the S. W., in which direction there are reefs of rocks, some parts
of which are always above water. In a strong S. \\\ wind, some
sea comes over these reefs at high water, but never enough to en-
danger a vessel during the summer months. There are several
rocky patches, with from 2^ to 3 fathoms off the hiirl)our's mouth;
these, with the want of space to work in, and the difTiculty of
getting out with the prevailing southerly winds of sunnuir, vender
this place of little use for the general purposes of uiivigation, but.

150

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

kU i,

Natathquan

Harbour.

it is a valuable harbour for the fishermen, whose schooners, of
frum 30 to 100 tons, are well suited to the size and nature of the
place, which is contiguous to excellent fishing ground, and affords
every facility for drying fish. The entrance of this harbour-
bears N. by £. 4 miles, from the southern entrance of Natash-
quan River, and a vessel, being ofiF the bar of that river in 20
fathoms, should steer N. E. by N., nearly parallel to the sandy
beach. When she has run rather more than 3 miles, and has
decreased her depth of water to 12 fathoms, she will be about half
a mile from, and will see the islets and rocks, which, commencing
at the termination of the sandy beach, lie off the entrance of Little
Natashquan Stream, and form the east side of the entrance to the
harbour. The westermost of these islets is much larger than
those whic];i lie further to the S. E., between it and the termina-
tion of the sandy beach, firing the west point of that island to
bear N.E. by N. in 12 fathoms of water, and the southermost
of the rocks at the termination of the sandy beach will bear
E. J N. From this position, by ascending the rigging for the pur-
pose, you will be able to make out the reef on the west side of the
harbour, which extends rather more than half a mile, S. W. by S.
from a rather high and round-backed islet of grey granite, with a
wooden cross upon it. This islet will bear N. by E. J E. from
the position above indicated, and the central reef, some part of
which is always above water, will be seen between it and the
islets and the point of the main, which, together, form the east
side of the harbour. Steer N. by E. J E. for the islet with the
cross on it, until abreast of the outer part of the reef to the
westward, which will be distant a long cable's length, and you
will be in about 7 fathoms water. Change your course now suf-
ficiently to the eastward, to pass on that side of the central reef
which you may prefer, giving its rocks above water a berth of not
less than 60 fathoms, if you take the west channel. The central
1 ccf is quite bold to the southward, and also on its east side, so
that you may approach it within 20 fathoms when entering by
the east channel ; biit you must remember in hauling round its
north and N. E. ends that it extends "JO fathoms under water
from the rocks, which always show towards the centre of the
liarbour. The best berth to anchor in is in 4 fathonis, sand and
mud bottom, with the rocks above water of the central reef, bear-
ing S. S. W. h W., distant 180 fathoms : then the cross will bear

NATASHQUAN TO THE MINGANS.

151

N. W. by W. i^ W., and the vessel will be nearly in the centre of , , , „ ,
the harbour.

Washtawooka (Crooked) Bay, 5 miles north-westward of wiuhiawooka
Little Natashquan, is full of small islets, rocks, and ledges, afford- ^^'
ing shelter to shallops and boats. It is an intricate and dangerous
place, and may be known by Shag Islet, a large black rock
lying off it, and further out than the rest, being 1 J miles S. S. E.
from the projecting point of the main.

Agwanos River, 10 miles north-westward of Little Natash- Agwrnus River,
quan, is a large stream, having rapids and falls 1^ miles from the
entrance, which is narrow, and 6 feet deep at low water. There
is no bar, but many small rocks, both above and under water, li ;
off its mouth to the distance of 1^ miles, and render the approach
extremely dangerous. The east point of entrance j«s of rock, the
other of sand, and there is a small islet, three-quarters of a mile
from the river's mouth. From 9 to 12 feet can be carried up to am' Tain.
this islet, above which the river expands into a basin, half a mile
wide, and 5 fathoms deep, close up to the foot of the i ipi;;.*.
There is sandy beach for li miles to the eastward of this river,
and also westward of it to Nabesippi.

Nabesippi (Man's) River, 3 miles north-westward from the Nabesippi Ri-
Agwanus, enters the sea at the extremity of a sandy point, 174 * '
miles N. W. ^ N. from the entrance of Natashquan River. The
Nabesippi is a much smaller river than the Agwanus, and will
only admit boats in fine weather. On the west bank, a short
distance within the entrance, stands a house and store, being a
trading post of the Hudson Bay Company, which can be readily
seen from the sea.

Pashasheeboo, Mushkoniatawee, and W<< '."tnagunashka, are Pa«A<uA«e£oo
small bays, full of small islets and rocks, wa, u render their en- ''^'
trances so difficult and dangerous, that no directions would be of
the least avail. They are occasionally, but not often, .entered by
small coasting schooners intimately ncquainted with the coast,
and none but those who know every rock and ledge could either
distinguish them, or take a vessel in. The first named is open to Muahkoniata-
the S. E. ; the second, less intricate than the other two, is 200 ""** ''^'
fathoms wide, and 5 fathoms deep in the entrance, with an equal
depth within. It is open to the southerly winds, but is neverthe-
less tolerably secure for small craft, which may lie close to the
rocks. The third is Ij miles wide, with a chain of rocks above a,hka Bay.

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

ll'atcheeslwu
UM.

Saddle llill.

Quelachiiu-Mn
n

and iiuclcr water across its mouth, not large enough, or dose
enough to afford much shelter, yet too close and too numerous for
a vessel to find her way through without great difficulty and
danger. I'hree fathoms can he carried in, and there are 4 and 5
within.

Watcheeshoo, 18 miles N.W. byW. from Nnbcsippi, and
14 miles E. S. E. from St. Genevieve Island, is a hill of granite
127 feet high, and bare of treea. It is a peninsula, but appears
like an islet, higher than the rest, when seen in a vessel from a dis-
tance. There is a fishing post of the Hudson Bay Company in a
cove among the rocks, to the westward of it. Watcheeshoo and
the Saddle Hill, which is 374 feet high above the sea, arc very
remarkable, and serve to point out to a vessel her position off the
coast. The latter is situated 6 miles inland from the foi mcr, in a
north direction.

Quetachoo-Manicouagon, and Pcashtebai, arc two contiguous
bays, 4 miles north-westward of Watcheeshoo. The first is the
most to the eastward, 2^ miles wide, and from 3 to 14 fathoms
deep, l)ut so full of rocks and ledges as to be useless, excepting to

yv«jA/eAaiZ/n^. the smallest schooners. It is open to the westward. The other
is a much smaller bay, capable of affording shelter only to boats,
and open to the southward.

AppeeleiatDiiij. Appeeletat is a bay full of rocks, of no use to vessels, because
of the ledges underwater off its entrance, and also within. Four
fathoms can be carried into this bay, ivhicli is not used even by
small craft, because there is an excellent luirl)our within St. (lene-
vieve Island, the S. E. point of which is distant only 3 miles from
it in a S. W. by W. direction.

Tlic whole of the dungerous coast which has passed in review in
the foregoing articles of this chapter was siirveyed for tin- first
time by us, during parts of tiie years 1832 and 1833. Previous
to that time there were no charts of it that desirved the niiiue ;
the principal points were not laid down within 10 miles of tlieir
true position, even in latitude; nod the names of the various bays
nud rivers were for \\\v most part unknown.

THE MING;\N IS!-ANI)S.

Moiqnnhlimdt. ^'''' '^'"' ^''"K"" Inlands are of limestone, conlaiiiing ainino-
fVww/n/K. uilesjortliiicerutilcH, and other organic reuuiin;-, <in\ ol wliiili arc

THE MINGAN ISLANDS.

153

similar to those of Anticosti. This limestone dips slightly to the
southward, so that the islands are bold, and frequently cliffy, on
their north, east, and west sides, whilst they are low and shelving
towards the south, in which direction the reefs of flat limestone
and other dangers exist.

Ancient beaches, formed of water-worn pebbles of limestone, and
flower-pot rocks, precisely similar to those which are forming
at present out of cliffs that are washed by the waves, arc met with
in most of the islands, far above the reach of the highest tides.

The [general character of these islands is low, they are estimated
nowhere to attain an elevation exceeding 300 feet above the sea,
and are in general much lower. They possess very little soil, but
nevertheless are thickly wooded with spruce, birch, and poplar,
on the side towards the mainland ; though towards the sea, barren
tracts often occur, composed either of bare limestone, or of banks
and ridges of limestone gravel.

Supplies of wood and water can readily be obtained from the
principal islands ; wild berries arc abundant in their season, and
so arc different kinds of wild fowl. Quadrupeds are scarce, but
there are plenty of seals up(m the limestone reefs, and a fe \ cod-
fish off the coast.

Tlie coast of the mainland, from St. John River to Mingan, is
of sand and clay, low and thickly wooded, and witli a fine sandy
lu-ach. Further eastward the siiore is souictinus of granite, and
at others of limestone, the latter rock lying immediately over the
fornier.

Mount St. John, 1416 feet high, and described in the last
Chapter, is the highest point of the nmiuland in this neighbourhood.
There arc other hills, estimated at 1000 feet above the sea, about
leagues further eastward, but (i or 7 miles back from the sea,
and nearly opposite (Quarry Island. With these exceptions, the
main is low, and it is particularly so opposite the Eastern Islands,
where the hills are fur back in the country.

The tides arc not strong among these islands, never exceeding
a knot, excejtting in very narrow chainicls. They are often rendered
irreg\ilur by the winds, but in i'nw settled weather there is a coii-
stuiil ulterinUion of tlu; streams oi Hood and ebb belvvecii the
islands and the main, and also within the distance of '2 or 3 miles
from the outer, or southern shorts of the islands.

For want of good charts of these islands, they have not been

Mingauh/ands.

Heiyht.

Trees.

Wood and IVa-
ter.

Stall and Cnit.

MuiiHt Si. John
I'll the main-
land.

Title»,

'llttit nliiHih
ml iluHi/rrimt,

154

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Number of
these iatimdn.

MmgaHliland*. much frequented by other than email coasting or fishing vessels,
and the dangers of the navigation among them has been much
exaggerated. With the exception of the rocks off St. Gienevieve
and Hunting Islands, which are very dangerous, and a shoal
to the westward of Clear Water Point, there are no detached
shoals outside the line joining the outer points of the islands, nor
do the reefs of flat limestone extend further out from the high
vater than three-quarters of a mile in any part. The principal
channels between the islands, and between them and the main,
may be easily navigated with the assistance of our charts, and
there arc several excellent harbours capable of admitting the
largest vessels.

There are 29 of these islands, in none of which are there any
inhabitants ; some of them are very small, and the largest does not
exceed 11 or 12 miles in circumference. They are arranged parallel
to the coast, and extend along it 45 miles from St. Genevieve Island,
at the eastern end to the Perroquets at the western end of the chain.

Clear Water Point, which is 14 miles to the westward of St.
Genevieve, projects out so as to interruirt the continuation of the
chain of islands, and thus separates them into two divisions, the
castcrmost of which has been called the Esquimaux Islands, a
name which should be confined to the island properly so called
in the western division. I shall consider them all as the Miugan
Islands, and treat first of the eastern division.

61. St. Genevieve, the castcrmost of the Mingan Islands,
is about 5 miles in circumference. Its N. E. point is a bluH'
hcailland, being tae termination in that direction of the highest ])art
of the island, which is about 200 feet alxjvc the sea, and slopes
irregularly down to the southward.

Mount St. Gknkvievk is an isolated table hill on the main-
land, of limestone, 332 feet above the sea at liii^h water, resting
on the granite alnnit a mile inliuul, and beoring N. h E. rather
more than 2 miles from the N. E. point of the island of St. Gene-
vieve. This mountain, and the high N. E. point of the island,
distinctly point out to a vessel at sea, the position of the channel
between the island and the main.

Tiierc arc two patches of rock which render it ncccBsary to ap-
proach the island of St. Genevieve with caution, viz., the Saints,
and the Uowen Hocks.
lite SatHin, 'i'uK Sainth are two low and bare rockN, lying rather more than

St. Genevieve
hland.

Atiiunl Si. Ge-
nevieve,

Dnnijfm off St
tirnrvifve /«-

THE MINGAN ISLANDS.

155

N. fV. Bou-en
Rock.

i S. E. Rowen
Rock,

Irregular
Suundingt.

half a mile to the south of St. Genevieve. There is a channel of 5
fathoms deep, but witli foul ground, between them and the island ;
and reefs under water extend from each of them fully 300 fathoms
to the south, S. E., and S. W.

The N.W. Bowen Rock, with 3 feet least water, lies H
mile E. S. E. ^ E. from the eastern Saint, and with the south
side of the latter on with the centre of the western Saint.

The S. E. Bowen Rock, with 6 feet least water, lies two-thirds
of a mile S. E. i S. from the north-west Bowen Rock, and S.E. by
E. \ E., 1| miles, from the easten. Saint, which is nist open to the
northward of the western Saint. These very dangerous rocks lie
nearly in a line from the S. E. point of St. Gencvice, at the dis-
tance of H and 2 miles respectively. There is very deep water
between and close to them, and also for rather more than a mile
to the southward of them and the Saints. The soundings are here
extremely irregular, varying from 4 and 6 fathoms rock, to 43
fathoms sand, sometimes in a single cast of the lead. The whole
of this dangerous part should be avoided by vessels.

HuNT/NG Island, the next westward of St. Genevieve, is low, Huniing hiand.
tliickly wooded, broken into many coves, fringed with small islets
and rocks on all sides, excepting towards the mainland, and is
about 1 1 miles in circumference. Its longest diameter is parallel
to the coast, and about 4 miles. Off its S. W. point, and extend- DangtrioffU.
ing to the distance of H miles, lie Wood and Gun Islands, leaving
no paesnge between, und having reefs running out from them 300
fathoms to the southward. They are both low, and the latter is
bare of trees, but covered with grass and peat, in which innume-
rable putiins l)urrow and rear their young.

Thk Garhk Rock, always above water, lies rather more than a GnnU Rovk.
mile oiF to the southward, from near the centre of Hunting Island ;
it would l)c highly iuiprudent for any ship to attempt a passage
lietwcen it and the iMliind, ns there are many ledges scattered
along the southern side of the island, and the Garde is itself the
termination of a long ridge of sunken rocks. The south-eastern
end of the island is likewise Iwaet with several reefs, some of
which extend three-cpmrters of a mile to the southward.

(/Oi-i.iNs SnoAi,, a BUiall patch of rocks, with l.'i feet leant t'o//iHv .S'AohA
water, lies 24 miles south, from the S. E. point of Hunting Island.
The marks on this dungerotm shoal arc tlie ca^tt point of St. Cenc-
vu'vc just open to the eastward of the weiterti Saint, bearing

Wood and Otm
litiittdi.

to
m

156

IrregtJar
Soundings.

GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE.

N. 38° E. nnrt the north point of Wood Island on with the
south side of the Garde Rock, bearing N. W.

Between Collins Shoal and the reefs off the S. E. point of
Hunting Island, the soundings are irregular, from 4 to 17 fathoms
over rocky bottom, and vessels should not pass there, as in such
a place it was impossible to be sure of having discovered every
jmint of rock which may approach a few feet nearer the surface
than the rest.

ST. GENEVIEVE AND BETCHEWUN HARBOURS.

S/. Genevieve
Harbour.

r,-

The first of these harbours is situated between the island of the
same name and the mainland, and the second, between Hunting
Island and the main. Both are excellent harbours, nut ditCcult
of access or egress with the assistance of a good chart, and fit for
the largest ships.

There are two channels leading to tliese harbours j namely, the
East and the Saints channels.
Hast Channel. To enter by the East channel with an easterly wind, observe
the following directions : —

Being at a distanre from St. Genevieve Island, of not less than
3 miles, to be sure that you are further out than Bowen Rocks,
bring the N. E. point of St. Genevieve in one with Indian Point,
(a low wooded point of the main, forming the east point of Pil-
lage Bay,) bearing N. 35° VV. Run in with this mark on
and you will leave the Bowen Rocks half a mile to the westward,
and will pass them in between 20 and 30 fathoms over a bottom
of fine sand and coral.

When the S. E. point of St. Genevieve and the west Saint
come in one, change your course a little to the northward, so us
not to go too near a flat shoal, which extends nearly .300 fathoms
from the cast side of St. Genevieve.

Give the N. E. point of St. Genevieve a berth of a cable's length,
aiul passing us close to the shingly north point of that island as
you please, bring up in 10 fathoms, mud bottom, half way be-
tween the latter and Anchor Island, which will be seen lying close
within the N. W. point of St. Genevieve.

If you wish to proceed to Hetehcwun Harbour ii/sleud of
aiu;lioiing at St. Genevieve, puss to the northward of Anchor
Island, which is (piite bnld on that xide, and you will »<e( the cm-

llrlvhrii'Uil
lliirhour.

THE MINGAN ISLANDS.

157

trance of Bctchcwun (between the north point of Hunting Island St. Genevieve

and Partridge Point) bearing W. by N. Mount Partridge, on "^„yf,oursT""

the N. E. side of the point of the same name, will be easily

recognized, being a wooded and steep-sided hill, similar to, but

much lower and smaller than Mount St. Genevieve. The north

point of Hunting Island is also a cliffy mound, with a cove on

the east side of it. It is quite bold, and you must pass close to

it, to avoid the shoal otf Partridge Point, which extends a full

quarter of a mile to the southward, and diminishes the navigable

breadth of the entrance to 350 fathoms. When in the entrance,

you will see a low islet in the centre of the harbour ; steer for it,

and anchor with it bearing W. by N., and distant one-third of a

mile. The depth of water in the harbour is from 9 to 18 fathoms

over mud bottom.

The distance across from the N. E. point of St. Genevieve to the Ledge I'oini,
main is about a mile, but the navigable breadth of the entrance is
reduced to half a mile, by the rocks and shoal-water otf Ledge
Point, which is composed of numerous rocks of granite close
together.

The shoal water extends from Ledge Point, directly across
Pillage Bay, to Partridge Point, and you must not approach these
shoals nearer than 7 fathoms.

This East channel is the best with easterly winds, and may be
used with moderate westerly winds during the flood tide, by
vessels not too large to work in such narrow channels, but they
must be careful in their boards to the northward, especially in that
t«tward8 Ledge Point.

To enter these harbours by the Saints channel observe thu Saint nChannef,
following directions : —

Bring tiie west points of St. Genevieve and Anchor Island in
one, bearing nortii, at a distance of not less than 5 miles from the
former, to be sure that you are outside of Collins Shoal. Run
in upon this leading mark, until the north sides of the two
Saints come in one, l)eariiig E. S. E. ij E. The cast sides of
Mount I'urtridge and of Iluntini!; Island (or ratlu-r of an island
joined to it at low water) will conic in one lU tlie same time, bear-
ing N. W. by N. ; steer upon this last named hading mark, (to
avoid a reef wiiieii extends 280 fathoms from tin- S. W. point
of St. Genevieve,) until the east side of Mount St. Genevieve, seen
over till' ^andy S. 11. point of Anchor Island, comes in one with

•

Ir 'J
r i

■ »

158

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

St. Oimevieve the N. W. point of St. Genevieve laland, bearing N. N. E. J E.

'aarbourt. Change your course now to north, which will take you in through

the centre of the channel between St. Genevieve and Hunting

Islands, and you may either proceed to St. Genevieve Harbour,

round Anchor Island, giving its west end a berth of two cables'

length, or to Betchewun Harbour along the N.E. side of Hunting

Island, which is quite bold.

The directions just given for the Saints channel will lead a

ship in between the dangers oflF St. Genevieve and Hunting Islands,

in not less than 20 fathoms water, and she will not have a less

depth until she is in as far a? Anchor Island. The breadth of the

channel between the shoal- water off the Saints, and the shoals off

the S. E. point of Hunting Island, is a mile. It diminishes to half

a mile between the reef off the S. W. point of St. Genevieve and

the east end of Hunting Island, which is the narrowest part of

the channel. Within this narrowest part, the ground becomes

good for anchoring, as it is everywhere between St. Genevieve and

Betchewun Harbours. Indeed so little sea comes in, that the

whole space may be considered as a harbour capable of holding a

great number of vessels of the largest class.

fVood and Hii- Wood and water may be obtained, the latter from small streams,
tcr

either on the main or on the islands.

There is an inner harbour at Betchewun, to the westward of the
low islet which has been mentioned, but from thence there is no
channel, excepting for boats, to pass out to the westward between
Hunting Island and the main.

The tides between St. Genevieve and Hunting Islands, and the
mainland, are much influenced by the winds; b«it their rates
seldom amount to a knot at any time, and are usually much less,
excepting through the shallow and narrow channel at the west end
of Betchewun Harbour, where there is at times a complete rapid.
Charles It/anil. 68. Charles Island, the next westward of Hunting Island,
is 3 miles long parallel to the coast, and I^ wide. It is about
200 feet high, bold, and free from shoals ; but at the distance of
three-quarters of a mile south from its east point there is a imtch
of rocky ground on which no less than 5 fathoms has been found,
bift which had better be avoided by large vessels.

The cast point of Charles bears N. W. by W. nearly 2i
miles from the west point of Gun Island. The former of these
points is quite bold, and so is the latter to the N. W., but to (he

Betchewun In-
ner Harbour.

Titles.

THE MINOAN ISLANDS.

159

Ragg Rag.

Charlex Har-

• built:

S. W. it has a reef extending 200 fathoms. Between them ia the

entrance to FuiBu Bay, which is open to southerly winds. Within PiiJ^n Bug.

the east point of Charles and half way towards a shoal cove in

this island, there is good anchorage in 7 fathoms, mud bottom, at

the distance of two cables from the island ; but the S. £. winds

send in a considerable swell. In the N. E. corner of this bay is

the narrow entrance (between shoals off Ragg Point and Hunting

Island) to Ragg Bay, which has tolerable anchorage in its N. W.

part, but has very deep water on the side towards Hunting Island,

and is separated from the western part of Betchewun Harbour by

the shoal and narrow channel for boats between the island and

the main, mentioned in the last page.

Charlks Harbour, between the island and the main, though
very narrow, is perfectly secure, and deep enough for vessels of '
any size, but its entrances are only 80 fathoms wide. Within, the
harbour expands to a quarter of a mile wide by three-quarters of a
mile in length parallel to the shore. Both entrances are 7 fathoms
deep, but you must pass over 4 fathoms if you enter from the
eastward through PufBn Bay. The depth within the harbour is
from 4 to 6^- fathoms, with mud bottom.

Strong winds occasionally cause the tides to run at the rate of
*! knots in the entrances of the harbour, but in general there is
only a weak stream with either tide.

To enter tliis harbour from Puffin Bay, bring the N. E. point of i
Charles, which ia high and cliffy, to bear N. W., then steer for '
it, and give it a berth of between 100 and 180 fathoms, as you
haul round it to the westward into the harbour.

To enter from Trilobite Bay, give the N, W. point of Charles
Island a berth of between 60 and 140 fathoms, as you haul round
it to S. E. by E. into the harbour. All the way from the eastern
narrow entrance into Charles Harbour tiie.c is a broad zone of
shoal water, which curves round parallel to the mainland till it
joins Whale Island, and nearly fills up all the N. W. part of
Trilol)ite Bay.

WuALK Island, lying one quarter of a mile from the cast llhnle Island.
side of Annnniiitc Point, and with shoal water between them,
is distant 800 fathoms to the westward of Charles Island.
Both islands arc bold and clilly, and Trilobite Bay is between TrilMie Uag.
them with excellent anchorage, well sheltered from uU but southerly

Tides.

Eastern En-
trance.

Western
Enlrunce.

(I:i
m

100

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

:,u '

t'::

1 1' -x

H
•1

£'■■■

''I

iJ/ear Water
Puint.

Cfear Water
Shouts.

winds. The only danger to be avoided when working into Trilo-
bitc Bay is a reef off" Ammonite Point, which includes a small
islet, and extends half a mile off-shore. The mark to clear this
reef, when running along the coast, is to keep Gun Island open to
the southward of Charles Island, and when hauling in from the
westward, into Trilobite Bay, keep the north point of Charles well
open to the southward of Whale Island.

Clear Water Point, about 2 miles westward of Ammonite
Point, and 2j miles westward of Whale Island, is low, and the
shoal water does not extend more than a quarter of a mile off it
to the southward.

69. The coast forms a large bay between Points Clear Water and
Esquimaux, along which there are high and conspicuous cliffs of
sand and clay, that distinguish this part of the coast to a vessel
at sea. The shoal water extends a considerable distance from
the shore all round this bay, and opposite Sea Cow Island, the
3 fathom mark is a mile out from the sandy beach.

Due west, and \\ miles from Clear Water Point, lies a rocky .3
fathom shoal ; and there are three others, with 2 fathoms, lying
to the northward of the first, and in a line from the point, towards
Walrus Island; the outer or westermost of them being rather
more than 2 miles from the point.

The mark for the outermost of these shoals is the south side
of the high land of Niapisca Island in one with the south point of
Gull Island, bearing N.W. by W. JW. ; or the north point of Fright
Island, on with the south side of Esquimaux Island, and open to
the southward of Green Island, bearing N. VV. by W.

The leading mark for passing outside these shoals, at the dis-
tance of half a mile, is the south points of Gull and Fright Islands
in one, bearing N. W. by W.
Walrutliland. Walrus Island lies 4 miles to the W. N. W. from Clear Water
Point, and Sea Cow Island is close to the N. E. of it. The two
islands together cover the space of 1 ^ miles in a N. E. direction,
and are steep and jjrccipitous, excepting to the southward, in which
direction the reef off Sea Cow Island extends three-quarters of
a mile, and that off Walrua Island, 200 fathoms.

Tlicrc is a clear channel to the eastward of these islaiulsi, and
also between them and the Clear Watir Shoals. This channel
is 1 } miles wide, ami, although not the best, may be used in pro-

Sea Cow Chan-
nel,

THE MIN6AN ISLANDS.

161

ceeding to Esquimaux Harbour from the eastward, by running
upon the leading mark, which has been given for clearing the
shoals to the westward of Clear Water Point, until the east sides of
Esquimaux and Walrus Islands come in one. Then steer for the
N. E. side of Sea Cow Island, and haul round it, at the dis-
tance of not less than 2 cables, to the north-westwaid for the east
entrance of the harbour.

Green Island, small, low, covered with grass, with reefs Green himd.
stretching north aud south, 210 fathoms, but bold to the east
and west, lies |^ of a mile W. N. W. from Walrus Island, and a
third of a mile E. S. E. from Esquimaux Island.

Gull Island lies a mile W. ^ S. from Green Island, which it Gull Maud.
resembles, excepting that it is rather smaller. It is distant half
a mile from the S. E. point of Esquimaux Island to the S. W.,
but there is no passage for ships between them. The south
point of Gull Island is bold, and may safely be passed at the dis-
tance of 2 cables.

Esquimaux Island, 2i miles long parallel to the coast, and If Esquimaux
miles wide, is 200 or 250 feet high towards its north side, sloping
to the southward. From its S. W. point a shoal extends towards
Fright Island, which also has a shoal stretching towards Esqui-
maux Island. The channel between these, leading north-east-
ward towards Esquimaux Harbour, (see art. 70,) is 380 fathoms
wide, with extremely deep water, but as there are no leading
marks for it, and the reefs on either side are extremely dangerous,
it cannot be recommended.

Fright Island is nearly a mile from the west point of Frig/u is/awl.
Esquimaux Island, and about two-thirds of a mile long, in a N. E.
direction ; it is bold on the south and S. W., on which sides
vessels may pass at a cable's length, but reefs extend off it to the
east, N. E., and N. W., to the distance of three cables.

QuiN Island lies within, or N. E. by N. from Fright Island, Q««« /»/««</.
from which it is distant a short half mile, it is nearly 1;J
miles long in a N. N. E. direction, and its shores are bold, with
the exception of a broad reef running out half a mile to the
W. N. W. from its north point.

There is a channel, which is deep, but only two cables wide, F,;yhi Channel,
between Quin Island and the reefs off Fright Island. This chan-
nel may be used with a westerly wind for proceeding to Esqui-
maux Harbour, by hauling up to the east of Niapisca till the south

162

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Ksquimaux
Harbour,

end of Quin Island comes in one with the south side of the cove
in Esquimaux Island, bearing E. S. £., tlien steering so aa to
pass close round the south point of Quin Island, which is quite
bold, and thence E. by N. 2 miles, to the harbour,

Quin Channel. But the best channel from the westward towards Esquimaux
Harbour is between Quin Island and the main, which, at Point
aux Morts, is distant two-thirds of a mile to the N. N. E. from the
north point of the island. The shoal water extends only a cable's
length to the northward from the latter, but off Point aux Morts,
and also off the small islets which lie rather more than a third
of a mile to the W. N. W. from it, the reefs extend 200 fathoms
to the southward, and the shoal water is continuous to the east-
ward, across the mouth of the wide bay, which is to the
northward of the harbour, and between Point aux Morts and
Esquimaux Point. The depth of water in Quin channel is
from 5 to IJ fathoms, with rocky, gravelly, or sandy bottom.

10. Esquimaux Harbour lies between the north and N. E.
points of the island of the same name, and between that island
and the mainland. The island is 400 fathoms from Esqui-
maux Point, which bounds the N. E. part of the harbour. Esqui-
maux Point, having the entrance of a small river on its west side,
consists of sand, and is quite bold to the S. W., although shoals
extend from it across the bays on either side, as has been mentioned.
The north and N.E. points of Esquimaux Island are also bold, and
may be passed at the distance of 10 fathoms by the largest ships.
The depth within the harbour is from 5 to 15 fathoms, over a
sandy bottom. The space in which vessels may anchor is nearly
1^ miles long, in a N. W. ^ W. direction, which is the bearing of
the points of the island from each other, and the average breadth
of the harbour four cables' length. There is therefore room for
a great numlier of vessels, which, if they anchor well over towards
the island, (that is, within the line joining its north and N.E.
points, and in not more than 1 1 fathoms water,) will be sheltered
from all winds. Supplies of good water may be procured from
the river at Point Esquimaux, or from small streams on the
island, and woo<l is plentiful.

Brief directions have been already given for Sea Cow, Fright,
and Quin channels, leading to this excellent harbour. I shall now
describe the best channels from the eastward and westward.

(%mitrl. The best channel with easterly winds is between Walrus and

Ifuler.

THE MINGAN ISLANDS.

163

Green Islands. This channel is three-quarters of a mile wide, Eiquimaux
with 8 fathoms least water, and it is only necessary to give cither
island a berth of 200 fathomb to be clear of all dangers. Being
2 or 3 miles outside of these islands, bring the N. E. point of
Esquimaux Island to appear about half way between the two islands
above mentioned as forming the channel, and it will bear about
north. Steer for it, and giving it a berth of a cable's length, haul
round it to the north-westward into the h; hour, and anchor in
the depth and position which has been recommended.

The best channel with westerly winds is to the westward of Niapisca
Fright and Quin Islands, between them and Niapirca Island, in '

the first instance, and afterwards between Quin Island and the
main. The extent and position of the reefs oflF Fright and Quin
Islands have been already mentioned. Niapisca Island, however,
has reefs of flat limestone extending half a mile to the south-
ward ; and also a quarter of a mile to the eastward, from its
S. E. and east points, between which a very remarkable group of
flower-pot rocks will be seen standing on the limestone just above
high-water mark. From its east point, which is the south point of
a bay in the island, another reef runs out half a mile to the
N. E. by E., but there is ample space between these reefs and
Fright Island, the channel being over a mile wide in the narrowest
part, and between 30 and 40 fathoms deep.

In running for this channel from the westward observe the fol-
lowing directions.

First observe that the leading mark for clearing the south reef
of Niapisca Island by more than two cables' lengths, is the N. W.
point of Fright Island in one with the south end of Quin Island :
do not therefore open those islands clear of each other, until you
have brought Moniac Island (bearing N. JE. 2^ miles from the
nearest point of Niapisca) in sight to the eastward ol" Niapisca.
Having done so, haul in through the channel, steering N. N. E.
i E., and when you open Moutange Island (next westward of
Moniac) to the northward of Niapisca, you will be clear of the
N. E. by E. reef above mentioned. Haul up now, if necessary, to
clear the reef, which projects half a mile W. N. W. from the north
point of Quin Island, until you not only open the north point of
Esquimaux Island to the northward of Quin Island, but also the
north point of Sea Cow Island to the northward of Esquimaux
Island. Run in between Quin Island and the main, with the last-

M 2

m
k

164

GULF OF ST. LAWRENC

r- t

Etqmmaux
Harbour.

Point aux
Marts,

Tides.

named marks just open, bearing about S. 54° E., and they will
lead you past the north point of Quin Island, at the distance of
about 200 fathoms.

Take notice that the mark for the shoals off Point aux Morts,
and the small islets westward of it, is the north and N. E. points
of Esquimaux Island in one, bearing S. E. J E. ; if you open them
before you are as far to the eastward as Quin Island you will be
ashore.

Having passed Quin Island, continue your course towards the
north point of Esquimaux Island ; and haid round it to the south-
eastward into the harbour.

The tides usually run at the rate of about one knot through
Esquimaux Harbour, the flood coming round Clear Water Point
from the eastward, and passing to the westward between Quin
Island and the main. The ebb flows in the contrary direction.

The flood also draws in between Fright and Niapisca Islands,
and the ebb sets out through the same channel. But these
streams are much influenced, both in their rate and duration, by
the winds, and the ebb is much accelerated by westerly winds in
Esquimaux Harbour, running there at times fully 2 knots.

71. Niapisca Island, the reefs of which have been already
mentioned, is rather more than 2 miles long, on a norlh and south
line of bearing ; it is only partially wooded, and has three principal
hills, not exceeding 200 feet high.
Quarry Island. QuARRY Isi.AND, nearly 2^ milcs long parallel to the coast, and
about the same height as Niapisca, is separated from the latter by
a channel 370 fathoms wide, with a small islet in it, but no safe
passage for shipping, because of a shoal in the bay to the south-
ward, and of a reef which stretches beyond the small islet.
Other reefs also run out one-third of a mile from the west side of
Niapisca, and from the south side of Quarry Island.

Quarry Cove is on the north side, and two-thirds of a mile
to the north-westward of the east end of the island. It is 230
fathoms wide, and about 400 deep, with 22 fathoms of water
in the entrance, shoaling gradually to 5 fathoms with mud bottom
close to its head. The islands and shoals along the mainland
are distant only 3 milcs to the northward of this cove, which
thus l)ecomes a completely land-locked, though very small, har-
bour. No other directions are requisite, than keeping the west
side nearest on board in entering, and to anchor near the centre

Aiapisca
Island.

Quarry Cove.

THE MINOAN ISLANDS.

165

in 9 or 10 fathoms. Good water may be obtained from a small
stream in the S. W. corner of the cove.

There is a clear cliannel between Quarry Island and Large Island, Qunntf
which is the next westward. This channel is 400 fathoms wide ""'" '
from island to island, in the narrowest part, where the shoal water
off Large Island diminishes the navigable breadth to 330 fathoms.
The only directions necessary are to bring the channel to bear
N. N. E., and then run in, keeping in its centre until two-thirds
of a mile within the S. W. point of Quarry Island, after which
you may keep that island close on board, as the remainder of the
channel, 1^ miles, is quite bold on that side, while the shoal water
extends 150 fathoms from Large Island. The flood runs slowly Titles.
in through this channel, and the ebb as slowly out.

Large Island, of an oval shape, the longest diameter 4 miles. Large hland.
and lying nearly north and south, is rather more than 1 1 miles
in circumference, thickly wooded, and in its highest part estimated
at 200 feet above the sea. Reefs of flat limestone extend off its
south and S. W. points to the distance of nearly three-quarters of
a mile, and the mark for the south point of these reefs, in 2
fathoms, is the south points of Niapisca and Fright Islands in
one. On its west side, a mile to the northward of its S. W. point,
there are many flower-pot and arched rocks, standing on the flat
limestone above the present high-water mark.

The Middle Reef lies just within the line joining the south
points of Large and Mingan Islands, and 2 miles westward of the
former. A part of this reef is always above water, but it is not
30 fathoms in diameter, though the shoal around it is half a mile
long in a N. E. by N. direction, and one-third of a mile wide.
The mark for the east side of this reef, in 4 fathoms, is the cast
sides of the two Birch Islands in one.

The navigable passage between this reef and Large Island is large Chanml.
called Large Channel, and is If miles wide, With a depth of 54
fathoms. This is the channel that should be used by a vessel pro-
ceeding to Mingan Harbour with an easterly wind, and in doing so
the only thing necessary to be observed is, that the reefs extend to
the westward off the shore of Large Island, from 3 to 2 cables'
lengths, as far in as the Flower-pot Columns, after which the island
becomes bold. There is little or no warning by the lead on the
Large Island side, but the Middle Reef may be approached to 13
fathoms, which, on the east side, is more than half a mile from it.

166

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

i 'i

i 5

Mfld/e Reef
Channel.

Further in, the Birch Islands form the west side of this channel,
at the distance of nearly 2 miles from Large Island ; the east side
of the Outer Birch is quite bold, and the shoal water extends only
150 fathoms off the east end of the Inner Birch Island.

The Outer and Inner Birch Islands lie to the northward
of the Middle Reef, and in a line from it towards the west side of
Harbour Island. The channel between the Outer Birch Island
and the Middle Reef is almost a mile wide, and 30 fathoms deep,
aiid the shoal water extends only 150 fathoms from the south
point of the former. But there is a very dangerous reef off the
west side of the Outer Birch Island extending 650 fathoms from
the shore. The channel between the two Birch Islands is 300
fathoms wide, but the ground is all foul, and not more than 3j
Birch hinndt, fathoms could be carried through by a stranger. The Outer Birch
Island is about a mile in diameter, and about 300 feet in height,
and it has a remarkable flower- pot rock on its S.W. point. The
Inner Birch Island is rather larger; its N. W. point is long and
low, extending half a mile to the westward from the body of the
island, with a curve to the S. W. ; off this point there is a reef
running out half a mile to the westward, and having 12 fathoms
within a cable's length of its edge.

Half a mile to the S. W. uf the same point, there is a small
low islet, close to the douth point of which stands a very remark-
able rock, culled the Hulk Rock, from its resemblance to tiu> hulk
of a wrecked vessel. The reef of flat limestone, dry at low water,
which connects this islet and rock to the low west point of the
Inner Birch Island, extends 300 fathoms ofi^ the rock to the S. W.,
and also 200 fathoms to the westward.

The flood tide sets out to the S. W. between the Birch Islands,
and also between theni and the Middle Reef.

Birch Channel, between the Birch Islands and Mingan IslaiKl,
is the best by which to proceed to Mingan Harbour with westerly
winds. It is 3 miles wide, and all deep water.

Mingan I.sland, 3^ miles to the westward of the Inner Birch
Island, is nearly 2 miles long, in a N.N.E. direction : and, in-
cluding two small islets close to its west side, nearly a mile broad.
It is about 100 feet in height, and bare of trees. The shoal water
dues not extend above 300 fathoms ofl* its south point, but to the
S. W. and west the reefs, including the islets, ruti out nearly G(M>
fatlumiM. The islaml is bold on its north and east aides.

Huik Rock.

Tide,.

liiirh
ChimneL

Ati Ill/an
JiUaiiU.

THE MINGAN ISLANDS.

167

Hirch
in*l, in-

bruail.

I water
t to tlie
rly 600

Mingan Patch lies S. W. i^ S, 3j miles from the south point of Mngan Patch.
Mingan Island, and with the south point of the Outer Birch
on with the north point of Large Island ; it is a patch of rocky
ground, with 9 fathoms on it least water, yet there is a very heavy
swell on it at times. There are 22 fathoms of water between
it and the island.

The Perroquets, the westermost of the Mingan Islands, are four Perroqueii,
small islets, low, and bare of trees. The north-westermost is higher
than the others, surrounded with cliffs, and has a superstratum of
peat on its flat summit, in which great numbers of puffins burrow
and rear their young.

The two eastermost of these islets are distant 2 miles N.W. by W.
from the centre of Mingan Island, and have a reef of flat lime-
stone extending off them three-quarters of a mile to the S. S. W.
There is also a shoal to the northward of them one-third of a mile,
and a narrow channel between them and the other two, but of no use
to vessels. The north-westcrmoft islet has shoal water off it to the
distance of a quarter of a mile, both to the eastward and westward,
but a vessel may pass to the northward of it, at the distance of
200 fathoms, in 14 or 15 fathoms of water. Perroquct Ciiannel, Perroquet
between these islets and Mingan Island, is 1 J miles wide, and ^*"''"«'-
with a depth varying from 30 to 40 fathoms in the centre.
Both the flood and ebb set out through the channel, the former to Tides.
the S. W., and the latter to the southward.

12. All the ^?lands described in the last article are bohl, and Mingm
free from danger on their north sides, so that Mingan Channel, ^'*'"""'-
which lies between them and the main, is safe throughout

On the m-iii)land side of this channc*, Moniac Island is less MumaoanU
than half a mile in diameter, and stands nearly o]iposite Niapisca iJandt''
Island, from whidi it is distant about 2|^ miles. Moutange
Island, 1^ miles further westward, is about \\ miles in diameter,
and situated ofl" a bay full of little islets, and in which there are
several smail riverr*. Moutange is directly op(K)site Quarry Island,
at the distance of 2\ miles. These islands, Moniac and Mouiange,
arc distant three-quarters of a mile from the nearest p«)int of the
main, but the shoals within and between tlicni arc nearly dry at
low watei .

The shoals do not project above three cables' length off to the
southward of thexc islands, but there is rocky ground, with irregular
soundings between 4 and 10 fathoms, out to tiie distance of a mile

168

Mingan
Channe/.

Sand Lark
Reef.

i''

Mingun

f £

Channel

« ...

abreast lUrck

Js/and,

f,, ,

? 5

D .,

«4

abrtnit the

f 1

Perruqiieta.

tjong I'omt.

Miugan
Harbour,

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

to the southward of them both ; so that a vessel beating in the
Mingan channel had better not stand over to the northward beyond
li miles from the northern shores of the outer islands, or into less
than 10 fathoms.

Sand Lark Reef, 3i miles N. W. by W. of Moutange Island,
2i miles £. S. E. from Harbour Island Mingan, and rather more
than a mile from the mainland, is small and low, but always
above water. The shoal water does not extend off it above a
cable's length, and there is a clear channel with deep water on
all sides of it ; but there is a rocky patch, with 5 fathoms of water,
H miles from it on a line towards the south side of Moutange
Island. This shoal water has not been particularly examined,
and should therefore be avoided.

Between the Inner Birch Island and Harbour Island, the Mingan
Channel is If miles wide, with rocky and irregular soundings, be-
tween 7 and 20 fathoms. The deepest water is over towards the
Birch Island, where the bottom is generally of sand, gravel, and
shells.

Between the Perroquets and Long Point, and also between Min-
gan Island and the latter, the Mingan Channel is 2-J miles wide, and
free from all danger, excepting a sandy shoal which extends off the
shore, immediately to the westward of Long Point, to within a
mile of the Perroquets. There is often a great ripple off this
shoal caused by the flood tide being turned off by Long Point
towards the S. W. This channel may be conveniently used, in
going to Mingan Harbour with a northerly wind.

Long Point consists of sand, and there is a fine beach from
thence to the eastward, as far as Mingan Harbour inclusive.

Mingan Harbour is the narrow and well-sheltered space
between Harbour Island and the mainland, which last is low and
has a iinc sandy beach, while the island is of limestone, about
100 feet in height, precipitous and bold towards the harbour,
but shelving and shoal to the southward to the distance of a
quarter of a mile from the shore. The length of the island is
2 niikz, its greatest breadth does not amount to half a mile, and
it is thickly wooded.

The reefs off the cast and west ends of the island, and which
are the principal things to guard against in entering the harbour,
extend 240 fathoms out from tlic high-water mark.

The mainland rtccdcs from the island in the eastern part of the

THE MINGAN ISLANDS.

169

harbour, which would, in consequence, be exposed to easterly Mingan
winds, if it were not for a sandy shoal, dry at low water, which
extends 700 fathoms out from the entrance of the Mingan River.
This river is only capable of admitting boats at high-water, and
its mouth is opposite the east end of the island. The eastern
entrance of the harbour, between the above sandy shoal and
the island, is 200 fathoms wide, the western entrance between
the mainland and the island is 170 fathoms wide, the whole
breadth in both entrances beirg in deep water. The space within,
in which vessels may anchor in safety, is about a mile long by 270
fathoms wide, with plenty of water for the largest ships, over a
bottom of fine sand.

Although these entrances are so narrow, there is little difficulty
in taking a vessel in of the size of a sloop of war, and larg ■
frigates have occasionally visited the harbour.

To enter Mingan Harbour observe the following directions. Uirrctwns for

In approaching it from the eastward, bring the north or inner ^"'"^'"!f'
side of Harbour Island to bear N. W., and the houses of the Hudson
Bay Company's post ought then to appear open fully their own
breadth to the northward of the island. Steer for those houses so
open, leaving the east end of the island 1.50 fathoms to the south-
ward, or on j'our left, and taking care to keep the south side of
the sandy point of the main, which forms the western entrance of
the harbour, shut in behind the north side of t' , island, for when
they are in one, you will be on shore on t. „ sandy ahoal off
Mingan River. After you have passed the e»-': en J of the island,
run along its north side at the distance of a fable, and dioose your
l)erth anywhere near the centre of the '-.arbnur in from 9 to 13
fathoms sand bottom.

When running for the harbour from the westward ; run ii<
towards the sandy beach of the mainland ut the distance of tliree-
({uartcrs of a mile to the westward of tiic island, until the sandy
point of the mainland, which forms the wrst er.d of the harbour,
conies in one with the face of the clny cliffs, to the east^. urd of
the Hutlson Bay Company's houses, bearing E. by S., or 'intil
you are in 11 fathoms water. Run upcm this mark, or course,
along the beach, and give the above sandy point uf the inaii:liind
a l)crth of half a cable, as you pass into the harbour, and ihoosc
your berth as before directed.

irt of the

t::

i- 1

r 1

vX'ii "^'X-vb \'b

170

Mingan
Harbour.

Oiitrr Banks,

l/iiiff I'oiiil to
St, John Hiier,

GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.

Mingan Harbour ie perfectly secure in all winds, and, like
Esquimaux Harbour, it has this great advantage, that vessels can
enter or leave it either with easterly or westerly winds.

The Banks of Soundings which extend off the Mingan Islands
towards Anticosti have been already mentioned (art. 22.), and it
is only necessary to add here, that their southern edge, in 50
fathoms, is no less than 5 miles off from the islands, and that the
banks become wider, or extend further off, as we proceed to the
westward. There is much greater depth of water in some of the
channels between the islands, than there is on these banks, as
will be seen by the chart.

From Long Point a broad beach of fine sand reaches to the
river St. John, which was described in the preceding Chapter,
and the chart will show that an irregular band of shoal water lies
outside of this beach, at the distance of three-quarters of a mile.

Lunduu t I'lialKl by W, llLovriii and SoNi, Stuiiiluid ttri'Ct

yi<^-^'Cp .ifc"" . 'f r/'r.-^^

inds, and, like
hat vessels can
ids.

klingan Islands
rt. 22.), and it
n edge, in 50
Is, and that the
proceed to the
in some of the
hese banks, as

reaches to the
eding Cha])ter,
ihoal water lies
;r8 of a mile.

Unai

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