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 1 
 
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2 s 
 
 *' >vov' m? 
 
 SAILING DIRECTIONS 
 
 fOR THE 
 
 •il 
 (I 
 
 GULF AND RIVER 
 
 ST. LAWRENCE; 
 
 HENRY ^OLSEY BAYFIELD, 
 
 CAPTAIN ROYAL NAVY. F.R.A.S. 
 
 •I 
 II 
 
 f1 
 
 BEING THE RESULT OF A SURVEY MADE BY ORDER OF THE 
 LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. 
 
 LONDON: • 
 PRINTED FOR THE HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE. 
 
 MUCCCXXXVII. 
 
 
^ 7/, y 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 I'riiitetl by William Ci.dwks nnd Sons 
 Stamfunl Strei't. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 I 
 
 Full and clear directions are given in the following pages 
 for entering the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; for passing the Mag- 
 dalen Islands ; for approaching the River either on the north 
 or on the south side of Anticosti ; and for navigating the 
 Estuary of the St. Lawrence, under every change of circum- 
 stance, as far up as Bic and Green Island. Beyond those 
 islands no stranger should venture to proceed without the 
 assistance of a pilot. 
 
 They have been drawn up by that skilful officer, Captain 
 Bayfield ; and, as they are perfectly sufficient to enable any 
 seaman to conduct his vessel not only with safety but with con- 
 fidence into pilotage-water, it has been thought proper not 
 to withhold such highly important information from the 
 public until the whole survey should be finished. The 
 survey is still in rapid progress; and, when complete, 
 these Sailing Directions will be extended around the entire 
 circuit of the Gulf, and will also "minutely describe all 
 the navigable channels of the River as far as the cities of 
 Quebec and Montreal. 
 
 Hydrographic Office, 
 
 November 9, 1837. 
 
 M 
 H 
 II 
 
 i 
 
 
1£ 
 
 '20 
 21 
 21 
 2.} 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 
 C H A P T K R I. 
 
 (jenoriil K'-miirks. 
 
 1. Former Charts of the St.Lawronee 
 
 2. Massey's Soiindin^^ Machine 
 
 3. Variatiun 
 
 4. Deviation 
 
 5. Majjaetic Action of the Shore 
 C. Ice 
 
 7. FoKs 
 
 8. Winds an<l Weather 
 
 9. The Marine Barometer . 
 
 Puge 
 1 
 2 
 3 
 3 
 3 
 4 
 4 
 5 
 7 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 r.eue,«, Remark, respecting the Currents an., Tidal Streams in Che St. I.a.rence. 
 
 10. Prevailing Currents ... 
 
 11. Currents at the Entrance of the Gnlf 
 
 12. Current in through the Strait of Belle Isle 
 
 13. Its Course after entering the Gulf 
 
 14. Main Current of the River 
 
 15. Its Course and Rate 
 
 16. Round Point de Monts . 
 
 17. Along the South Coast . . [ 
 
 18. Remarks on the Tides of thi> \n,*u n ^ i< . 
 
 Monts . "***' *^<«'tw'»"» of Point de 
 
 11 
 11 
 12 
 12 
 J 3 
 17 
 18 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 ( HAPTKR III. 
 
 Oenera. Directions for Navigating ,h. Gulf and Ri,er of Su Law.ence 
 19. Vj^eUeutering the G,df should endeavour to make the Island of 
 
 -S^. The Passage Northward of Anticosti . 
 
 2'?. The Passage Southward of Auticosti. . " 
 
 20 
 21 
 22 
 23 
 2.5 
 
vl 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 a4. Anticosti to Point de Monts, with fair and with Iwatinj? Wimis 
 25 Point de Moats to Bicquette Island, with easterly winds and thitk 
 weather. An Instance of the fatal consequences of neglectinj'' 
 
 the Deviation of the Compass. Pilots 
 
 2(i. Point de Montd to Bicquette, with southuily and with northerly 
 Winds. Instances of the effects of the Currents and Tides. 
 
 27. Bicquette to Green Island Li);htho\i8e 
 
 28. Beating uj) the Kstuary with westerly Winds .... 
 
 29. Returning down the Estuary and Gulf ..... 
 
 I'll!!!' 
 
 26 
 
 2ti 
 
 32 
 34 
 3(i 
 3!) 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 The Isttinds in tlie Gulf of St. Lawrence. 
 
 30. Island of St. Paul 43 
 
 31. Bird Rocks 44 
 
 32. Bryon Island .40 
 
 33. Ueadman Islet 47 
 
 34. Magdalen Islands 48 
 
 3d. Description of <he Southern side of the Ma);dalens, and the Reefs 
 
 and Anchoring:; places, with Directions . . . . .50 
 
 36. Description of the Northern side of the Magdalens. and the Dangers, 
 
 with Directions ......... 5s 
 
 37. Tides and Currents around the Magdalens ..... (10 
 
 38. The Island of Anticosti, general Description, Provision Posts, and 
 
 Lighthouses ......... 62 
 
 39. Description of the Southern Coast of Anticosti, with Directions . Cli 
 
 40. Descriptionof the Northern Coast of Anticosti, with Directions . 71 
 
 41. Remarks upon the Currents and Tides around Anticosti . . 75 
 
 ■>7i 
 
 r 
 
 H 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 The South Cuust of the Oulf anil River of St. Luwmice, from (>.-ispe lu Green IsIhdiI. 
 
 42. Preliminary Remarks ......../ 
 
 43. Cape Despair and Leauder Shoal, Bonaventure Island. Perce 
 
 Rock, Mai Bay. Point Peter, and Flat Island . . . ; 
 
 44. Gasp^ Bay. Cape Gaspe. and Flower-pot Rock. Seal Rocks. 
 
 Douglas Town, and Roadstead. River St. John 
 43. Oasp^ Harbour. The N.W. and S.W. Anns. The Basin . 
 
 46. Tides, Currents, Winds, and Soundings ..... 
 
 47. The South Coast from Cape Gasp6 to Cape Chutte. Cape Rozier. 
 
 Griifin Cove. Great Fox River. The Great Pond. Magdalen 
 River. Mont Louis River. St. Anne and Chatte Rivers. Cape 
 Chatte 
 
 48. Cape Chatte to Barnaby Island, River Matiin. Little Metis. 
 
 Grand Metis. Cock Cove, and Mount Camille. Father Point, 
 Rimousky Road. Barnahy Island ...... 
 
 49. Barnuby Island to the Riizade Islets. Cape Arignole ; its Bays 
 
 and Reefs. Old Bic Harbour. Bic and Bicquette Islands; their 
 Reefs, and the Alcide Rock. Auchorages at Bic. Tides. Kdgo 
 of the South Bank 91 
 
 80 
 
 82 
 85 
 
 86 
 
 89 
 
 Tt 
 
 59, 
 
 60. 
 61. 
 62. 
 63. 
 
 64. 
 
 C.5. 
 
 6(!. 
 07. 
 
 i 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 vn 
 
 50, The Razade Islets. Basque Island. Apple Island. Green Island, 
 
 Lighthouse, Reef, Anchorage, and Tides . . . .102 
 
 
 M 
 (10 
 
 62 
 6f) 
 71 
 75 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Tlio North Coast of the Gulf and River SL Lawrence from St. John Kiver to I'oint du 
 Monta; and from thence to Little Bergeron near the Saguenay. 
 
 52. 
 
 5.3, 
 54. 
 
 56. 
 
 57. 
 
 General Description of the Coast from the River St. John to the 
 Rivur Moisic. Magnetic Nature of the Coast, Appearance of 
 and Approach to the Shore ....... 
 
 River St. ,lohn, Magpie River, Sawbill River, Shallop River, 
 Manitou River, Basin River, Point St. Charles. River Moisic, 
 and the Coast and Dangers ....... 
 
 The Shoal to the westward of Point Moisic. Seven Islands Bay . 
 
 The Coast from the Seven Islands to Point de Monts, River St. 
 Margaret. Cawee Islands. Lobster Bay. Pentecost River. 
 English Point. Kgg Island and Reefs. Calumet River. Caribou 
 Point. Trinity Bay. Point du Monts Lighthouse. Point de 
 Monts, and detached Rocks ....... 
 
 The North Coast of the Kstuary, to Point St. Giles. St. Augustin 
 Cove. Goodboiit River. St. Nicholas Harbour. St. P.incras 
 Cove. English Bay ........ 
 
 Manicouagon River. Maniciiuagon Shoal. Outard River. Outard 
 Bay. Bersimis River ........ 
 
 Bersimis Point and Shoals. Jeremy. Cape Colombier. Gulnare 
 Shoal. Wild Fowl Reef. Plongeur Bay. Bale de Laval. Port 
 Neuf River. The Port Neuf Sands 
 
 Point Milles Vaches. Milles Vaches Bay, and the Coast lu the 
 south-westward. Great and Little Bergeron Coves . 
 
 106 
 
 107 
 113 
 
 118 
 
 126 
 
 129 
 
 134 
 
 137 
 
 78 
 
 80 
 
 82 
 85 
 
 86 
 
 89 
 
 •)l 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 The North Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence from Lake Island to the River St. JobD. 
 including the Mingan Islands. 
 
 59. General Description of the Coast, from Lake Island to Natashquan 
 
 Point 139 
 
 (iO. Whittle Rocks. Wolf Bay and Islands 140 
 
 61. Coacoacho Bay and its Harbours . . . . . .141 
 
 62. Olomanosheebo, Wash-shecootai, and Musquarro , . . 143 
 
 63. Kegashka Bay, Kegashka River, and the Coast between it and 
 
 Natashquan Point. Mont Joli Cod Banks .... 144 
 
 64. General Descripticn of the Coast from Natashqtian Point to the 
 
 Mingan Islands . . . . . . . . .147 
 
 65. Natashquan River. Little Natashquan Harbour. Washtawooka, 
 
 Agwanus, and Nabesippi Rivers. Pashasheebo. Mushkoniatawee. 
 
 Washatnagunashka. Watcheeshoo, Quetiichoo-Manicouagon. 
 
 Peashtebai. Appeeletat 148 
 
 6fi, The M-ngan Islands, general Description ..... 152 
 07. St. Genevieve and Hunting Islands. The Saints. Bowen Rocks. 
 
 The Harbours of St. Genevieve and Bctchewin . . . .154 
 
Vlll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 68. Charles Island and the Bays on eithur side of it. Charles Harbuiir . 
 
 69. Clear Water Shoals. Walrus and Sea Cow Islands, with the 
 
 Channels leading to Esquimaux Harbour. Green, Oull, Eiiquimaux, 
 Fright, andQuin Islands, with their Reefs and the Channels 
 between them. Quin Channel ...... 
 
 70. Esquimaux Harbour 
 
 71. Niapisca Island. Quarry Island and Cove. Quarry Channel. Large 
 
 Island. Middle Reef. Birch Islands. Mingan Island. The 
 Perroquets ....•••••• 
 
 72. Mingan Channel between the Islands and the Main. Mingan 
 
 Harbour. Long Point to St. John River 
 
 Pace 
 15S 
 
 160 
 162 
 
 164 
 
 167 
 
Tt^i' " i.t ; » 
 
 SAILING DIRECTIONS 
 
 •■i.j\.-*^ 
 
 11 
 
 FOR THE 
 
 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 PART L 
 
 SBAStlirOS AB.X DKaOWBTXO - TBB MnXS AlbB 
 60 TO il SBOltBB - Aim TBB OAB&BB AllB 100 
 rATBOlMCS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 1. Former Charts of the St. Lawrence, — 2. Massey's Sounding; Machine. — 
 3. Variation. — 4. Deviation. — 5. Magnetic Action of the Shore. — 
 G. Ice. — 7. Fogs.— 8. Winds and Weather. — 9. The Marine Barometer. 
 
 1. The navigation of the Gulf and River of St. Lawrence has Former Charu. 
 always been supposed to be attended with a considerable degree 
 of difficulty and danger, and the numerous accidents which are 
 constantly occurring to vessels there seerti to show that the 
 opinion is well founded. The want of soundings, in many parts, 
 near the shores ; the irregularity of the tides and currents ; the 
 severity of the climate, especially towards the close of the navi- 
 gable season ; and, above all, the frequent fogs, are difficulties 
 which may well cause much anxiety in the mind of the seaman, 
 and which call for the exercise of all his vigilance, prudence, and 
 ability. Nevertheless, a very large proportion of the losses which 
 annually take place, may, I think, be attributed to other than 
 these natural and irremediable causes. Erroneous charts, a want 
 of knowledge of the direction and strength of the tides and cur- 
 rents, and a false variation of the compass, are, although not the 
 only, certainly the most frequent causes of shipwreck in the 
 St. Lawrence. It is hoped that these last will be removed by the 
 survey, which has been made by order of the Lords Commis- 
 sioners of the Admiralty, and by these directions and remarks, 
 written also by their command, in order to accompany that survey. 
 
 
 :* 
 
 (1 
 >i 
 
 M I 
 
2 
 
 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 D*» narrei 
 Charts, 
 
 Afamiei/'s 
 •SouHilinuf 
 Alac/iine. 
 
 Of the various charts of the St. Lawrence which have hitherto 
 been in use, those of Major Holland, re-published by Des Barrcs 
 in 1778, are the least inaccurate, yet the least in general use. 
 The others appear to be taken from them, with alterations, which 
 seem to rest on no better foundation than the fancy of the chart- 
 makers, who, in their compilations from materials generally inac- 
 curate, appear to have considered the latest as necessarily the best 
 intbrmation. The effect of this has been the retention of old 
 errors and the addition of new ones, for it so happens that the 
 most recent charts of the St. Lawrence at present in use, arc the 
 iiiost erroneous of any. In Des Barres* charts, although thus 
 mentioned as the best, the errors and omissions are numerous and 
 important. The soundings arc generally incorrect, frequently so 
 much so as to be directly contrary to the truth ; for he occasion- 
 ally shows a moderate depth of water, where there should be 
 100 fathoms or more, and in other places a great depth where 
 there is bottom to be found with the hand lead. Commanders of 
 ships having found that they could not trust to the soundings in 
 these, and the other charts, have considered it of no use to sound, 
 from which many fatal accidents have occurred within my own 
 knowledge. 
 
 2. In the Admiralty charts will be found accurate soundings, 
 taken with Massey's patent sounding machine, which gives the 
 exact perpendicular depth independent of the effect of currents or 
 drift of the vessel. I strongly recommend the use of this excel- 
 lent instrument, with which every vessel, in my opinion, ought to 
 be furnished. It is not expcuBive, ard will last with care for a 
 long period of time : correct soundings may be obtained with it in 
 30 fathoms of water without heaving to, if the vessel be not 
 tailing at a rate e.\cccding 7 knots ; and no vessel ought to be 
 permitted to run faster, in a thick fog, or dark night, when in the 
 vicinity of land, or otiicr danger. Furnished with this instrument, 
 or, instead of it, with Butt's buoy and nipper, and with correct 
 charts, a vessel may be run in snCtty up the b^t. Lawrence as high 
 as Green Island. In sliort, there as cli-cwlicre, correct soundings 
 are the best of all guides to the navigator.** 
 
 • There is no difficulty in the tise of MasseyS |>iiti>nt ioiindtn|{ machinO) 
 and it is xuld iiccoui|)fiiiiril with iliri-ctiuiiH fur bi-ttin^, rvndin); it* indicu- 
 liiinn, .ti'. The foiiinuui tli'i'ii si' i Iciiil line is luit Nlruiin t.<ni)Uf;h to lii'iir the 
 itrnia ol thu Iviid and uttttchLUuuicliiuu. WItcu tiiu vumkcI h guinK fuiit through 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 therto 
 Jarres 
 1 use. 
 which 
 chart- 
 f inac- 
 lic best 
 of ohl 
 lat the 
 irc the 
 h thus 
 }us and 
 sntly 80 
 jcasion- 
 ould he 
 li where 
 iidcrs of 
 dings in 
 ,0 souiid, 
 my own 
 
 mnchinei 
 Lts imUcu- 
 1) \ii'iir lilt' 
 l8tthruui;h 
 
 3. The variation, given in Des Barrcs' charts, was probably Erroneous /'«- 
 correct for the time when the charts were made ; and though "" ""** 
 greatly changed since, has been copied nevertheless into most of 
 
 the charts in general use. For instance, in some of those charts 
 the variation at Anticosti is given as 17° west, too little by three- 
 quarters of a point. The effect of this upon the run of a vessel 
 from the entrance of the Gulf to Anticosti, or from the latter to 
 Point de Monts, will be obvious to any seaman, and has doubtless 
 occasionally been one cause of shipwreck. 
 
 4. There is another source of error, independent of charts Deriaiion, ur 
 altogether, which it is astonishing to find obtaining so little ,/„',_ 
 attention, particularly in the merchant service, considering how 
 
 much has been written concerning it of late years. I allude to the 
 deviation, or local attraction of the needle. This subject may be 
 seen fully treated in Mr. Barlow's treatise on magnetic attrac- 
 tion ; and Sc^resby in his works on the arctic regions, and on the 
 Greenland whale fishery, gives many valuable and practical 
 directions respecting the methods available under different cir- 
 cumstances, for finding its amount in various positions of the 
 ship's head, and applying a correction accordingly to the course 
 steered. The amount of error from this cause will be a point of 
 the compass in most vessels, and, in particular circumstances, 
 may become twice that quantity in those latitudes. 
 
 5. An opinion is prevalent that the compasses of vessels arc Miifj/neUr 
 disturbed in the Gulf and River St. Lawrence, and such dis- "iJre. 
 turbance has been attributed to the magnetic ores of iron in tlic 
 
 hills, particularly those of the north coast. The magnetic oxide 
 of iron does exist abundantly, and attracts the needle very power- 
 fully at some points, particularly along the const from the Bay of 
 Seven Islands eastward. Among the Mingan Islands, we found 
 
 the watuT, a nupcriur line HhuuUlbe um])loyi'd fur the imrpoiiv. Whon Hailing; 
 ut a ratu nut uxcuciliiiff .'■ kiiut!i, liuttuin may bu struck in .')U tUihuinvui' wiitur, 
 and when goin); Hlower, at Htill )^i'uti-r (lF|ith§ ; liiit thi> hnllow rylinder nf thu 
 wiiifp will sfldum hear thu pii'bmiru, at dcjiths much exci't'din^; lUU lathumy. 
 The deep Nea lead line, with the niacliine uttavhed, 8hutild be puimed I'ui ward, 
 from the weutlur ([uarter of tlio vessel, uutsidu all, to the weather cathead, 
 or bowitprit end. If going nIuw, it nmy lio dropped, viry conveniintly, 
 from the weather ^anpvny, a1 aft tliu fore ri^gin^:, taking cart!, in ail 
 eaaei, to drop it pcrpundicidurly into the sea, and not to throw, or Nwing it, 
 M ii Mometimei carelently done. An iron staunchion, to ship and iniship. on 
 either quarter an required, with a snuill iinutrh-blork attached, to pHSH thu 
 line through, will en<ible I or .'> liandH to walk the lend line in uith e.ise and 
 expedition, Mr. MavHey Iiuh recently much improved thiit tnuchinv. 
 
 I 
 (i 
 
 M 
 It 
 
 .! 
 

 4 
 
 GITLF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Magnetic 
 action of the 
 shore. 
 
 ■'I 
 
 A» effect at a 
 (li.slatice. 
 
 hi: 
 
 I'lKi':. 
 
 the variation to vary from this cause from 19" to 31* west. A 
 Port Neuf, and on Manicouagon Point, the needle was also 
 disturbed. But these effects were only noticed when the instru- 
 ment was placed on the shore. In two instances only, when 
 sailing within two miles of the shore, have we observed any 
 effect of the kind upon the compasses on board the Gulnare,* 
 and then only to the amount of a few degrees. 
 
 When running from place to place, at greater distances from 
 the coast, nothing of the kind has been noticed ; so that I feel 
 sure, that in nine cases out of ten where this source of erroneous 
 reckoning has been alleged as the cause of accidents to vessels, 
 they originated either in errors of the chart, or in the local attrac- 
 tion on board the vessels themselves. 
 
 6. Among the difficulties of the navigation may be mentioned 
 the ice. In spring the entrance and eastern parts of the Gulf 
 are frequently covered with it, and vessels are sometimes beset 
 for many days. Being unfitted for contending with this danger, 
 they often suffer from it, and are occasionally lost ; but serious 
 accidents from this cause do not frequently occur, because the 
 ice is generally in a melting state from the powerful effect of 
 the sun in spring. In the fall of the year accidents from ice 
 seldom occur, except when the winter commences suddenly, or 
 when vessels linger imprudently late from the temptation of 
 obtaining high freights. 
 
 7. But all danger from ice is far less than that which arises 
 from the'prevalencc of fogs : they may occur at any time during the 
 open or navigable season, but arc most frequent in the early part 
 of summer ; they are rare, and never of long continuance during 
 westerly winds, but seldom fail to accompany an easterly wind 
 of any strength or duration. The above general observation 
 is subject, however, to restriction, according to locality, or 
 season. Thus winds between the south and west, which arc 
 usually clear weather winds above Anticosti, are frequently ac- 
 companied with fog in the eastern parts of the Gulf. Winds 
 between the south and east are almost always accompanied 
 with rain and fog in every part. E. N. £. winds above 
 Point dc Monts, are often E. S. E. or S. E. winds in the Gulf, 
 changed in direction by the high lands of the south coast, and 
 IiHVc therefore in general the same foggy character. I speak of 
 
 * Thu achuuiKT tn wliich the hurvry has b««n carried un. 
 
 j 
 
;. A 
 ,8 also 
 nstru- 
 when 
 id any 
 Inare,* 
 
 :8 from 
 it I feel 
 roneous 
 vessels, 
 attrac- 
 
 jntioned 
 the Gulf 
 cs beset 
 I danger, 
 t serious 
 ause the 
 effect of 
 from ice 
 enly, or 
 :ation of 
 
 arises 
 urmg the 
 arly part 
 e during 
 ly wind 
 servation 
 ality, or 
 lich are 
 cntly ac- 
 Winds 
 mpanicd 
 in above 
 he Gulf, 
 oast, and 
 epenk of 
 
 \ 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 winds of considerable strength and duration, and which probably 
 extend over great distances. Moderate and partial fine weather 
 winds may occur without fog at any season, and in any locality. 
 In the early part of the navigable season, especially in the months 
 of April and May, clear weather, N. E. winds are of frequent oc- 
 currence, and they also sometimes occur at other seasons, in every 
 part of the Gulf and River St. Lawrence. 
 
 The fogs sometimes last several days in succession, and to a Lasting Fujs 
 vessel either running up or beating down, during their continu- 
 ance, there is no safe guide but the constant use of the deep sea 
 lead, with a chart containing correct soundings. 
 
 The fogs, which accompany easterly gales, extend high up into llnjh I'uys, 
 the atmosphere, and cannot be looked over from any part of the 
 rigging of a ship. They, however, are not so thick as those wliicli 
 occur in calms after a strong wind, and which are frequently so 
 dense as to conceal a vessel within hail ; whilst the former often, 
 but not always, admit the land, or other objects, to be distin- 
 guished at the distance of half a mile, or more, in the day time. 
 
 The dense fogs, which occur in calms, or even in very light Imw Fu<j\. 
 winds, often extend only to small elevations above the sea ; so 
 that it sometimes happens, that when objects are hidden at the 
 distance of 50 yards from the deck, they can be plainly seen by a 
 person 50 or 60 feet up the rigging. In the months of October 
 and November the fogs and rain, that accompany eosterly gales, 
 are replaced by thick snow, which causes equal embarrassment t»» 
 the navigator. 
 
 8. The prevailing wind:, during the navigable season, are Pievintinn 
 either directly up or directly down the estuary, following tlie 
 course of the chains of hiijh lands on citlicr side of the great valley 
 of the St. Lawrence. Thus a S. E. wind in the gidf becomes 
 E. S. E. between Anticosti and the south coast, E. N.E. above 
 Point de Monts, and N.E. al)()ve Green Island. The westerly 
 winds do not appear to be so much guided in direction by the 
 high lands, excepting along the south coast, where we have 
 observed a W. S. W. wind at the Island of Bic become west, 
 W.N. W., and N.W., as wc ran down along the high and curved 
 south coast, until it became a N.N.W. wind at Cape Ganpt!. 
 These winds frcq\iently blow stning (or .'I or 4 dayH in succession ; 
 the westerly winds being almost always atcompanied with line, 
 dry, clear, and sunny weather ; the easterly windH as fre(|uciitly 
 
 
 ll'miln. 
 
 • I 
 ii 
 II 
 
 a* I 
 
GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Viumkr 
 Storm*. 
 
 Course of the the contrary, cold, wet, and foggy. In the spring, the easterly 
 Umd*. ^inds jnost prevail, frequently blowing for several weeks in 
 
 succession. As the summer advances, the westerly winds 
 become more frequent, and the S. W. wind may be said to be the 
 prevailing wind in summer in all parts of the River iind Gulf. 
 Light south winds take place occasionally ; but north winds are 
 not common in summer, although they sometimes occur. Steady 
 N.W. winds do not blow frequently before September, excepting 
 for a few hours at a time, when they generally succeed easterly 
 winds which have died away to a calm, forming the commence- 
 ment of strong winds, and usually veering to the S. W. The 
 N.W. wind is dry, with bright clear sky, flying clouds, and 
 showers. After the autumnal equinox, winds to the northward 
 of west become more common, and are then often strong steady 
 winds of considerable duration. In the months of October and 
 November the N. W. wind frequently blows with great violence 
 in heavy squalls, with passing showers of hail and snow, and 
 attended with sharp frost. 
 
 Thunder storms are not uncommon in July and August : they 
 seldom last above an hour or two; but the wind proceeding from 
 them is in general violent and sudden, particularly when near 
 the mountainous part of the coast; sail should, therefore, be 
 fully and quickly reduced on their approach. 
 GrmiufJ changt Strong winds seldom veer quickly from one quarter of the 
 compass to another directly or nearly contrary : in general they 
 die away by degrees to a calm, and are succeeded by a wind in 
 the opposite direction. I do not mean, however, by this obser- 
 vation, that they may not veer to the amount of several points. 
 N.W. winds seldom or never veer round by north and N.E. 
 to cast and S. E ; but they do frequently, by degrees, to the S. W., 
 after becoming moderate. S. W. winds seldom veer by the 
 N. W. and north to the eastward, but sometimes by the south to 
 S. E. and cast. Easterly winds generally decrease to a calm, and 
 are succeeded by a wind from the opposite direction. 
 
 In the fine weather westerly winds of summer, a fresh toj)- 
 gallant breeze, will often decrease to a liglU breeze or calm at 
 night, and spring up again from the same quarter on the 
 following morning : under these circumstances only may a land 
 breeze oil' the north coast be looked for. I have observed the 
 Bumc utf the south cousl uUo, but not so decidedly or extending so 
 
 uftke H'imU, 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 , meter. 
 
 far off shore. I have occasionally carried the north land wind Courteoftfte 
 nearly over to the south coast just before daylight, but have never 
 observed the south land wind extend more than 5 or 6 miles off, 
 and that very rarely. Under the same circumstances, that is 
 with a fine weather westerly wind going down with the sun, a 
 S. W. land breeze will frequently be found blowing off the north 
 coast of Anticosti at night and during the early part of the 
 morning. If, however, the weather be not settled fair, and the 
 wind does not fall with the sun, it will usually prove worse than 
 useless to run a vessel close in shore at night in the hope of 
 a breeze off the land. Such is the usual course of the winds in 
 common seasons, in which a very heavy gale of wind will pr<jbably 
 not be experienced from May to October, although closc-rccfed 
 topsail breezes are usually common^enough. Occasionally, how- 
 ever, there are years, the character of which is decidedly stormy. 
 Gales of winds, of considerable strength, then follow each other 
 in quick succession and from opposite quarters. 
 
 9. The marine barometer, which is at all times of great use to Marine Buro' 
 the navigator, becomes particularly so in such seasons ; and the ' 
 following remarks upon its general indications, when taken in 
 connexion with the usual course of the winds and weather in the 
 St. Lawrence, may, therefore, be useful. The barometer has a 
 range from 29 to 30*5 inches in the Gulf and River of St. Law- 
 rence during the navigable season, and its changes accompany 
 those of the winds and weather with a considerable degree of 
 constancy. The fluctuations of the barometric column are nuich 
 greater and more frequent there than in lower latitudes ; and 
 sudden alterations, which in other climates would bu alarming, 
 may occur there without being followed by any corrc8pon<ling 
 change cither in the wind or weather. But the navigator 
 should not be inattentive to those minor changes, as a constant 
 attention to the instrument can alone enable him to appreciate 
 those decisive indications of the mercury which seldom or 
 never prove deceptive. The following remarks will apply to 
 those well-marked changes which usually indicate the approach 
 of a gale of cunsiderabic strength, or of a shiil of wind aiitl 
 weather ; the correct anticipation of whicli is often of the utmoHt 
 consequence to the safely of a vcsbcI, as well as to the length uf 
 her voyage. When, al'ler u eoulinuance of we»tiiiy winds and 
 fincweulhcr, tlie buromctcr hwa libcu ncurlv to it» greatest heii'lii, 
 
 '• 
 t 
 
 M 
 
 It 
 
 'I 
 
 !l 
 
i;i;:i — I 
 
 9i 
 
 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 ill 
 
 'II 
 
 JUarint Euro- Bay Bome tenths above 30 inches, or begins to fall a little, an 
 ' . easterly wind may be soon expected. If to this notice given by 
 
 Eatterly the barometer be added a warm hazy atmosphere during the 
 
 Ivindt, ^j^y^ jjjj^ ^ heavy precipitation of dew at night, with very bright 
 
 twinkling stars, or a coloured aurora borealis, the approach of an 
 cast wind is almost certain. If land be in sight at such a time, 
 and appears much distorted by terrestrial refraction, or if vessels 
 in sight have the relative proportions of their hull and sails 
 changed by the mirage, or present double or treble images, such 
 appearances will render the before probable indications of the 
 barometer certain. At the commencement the easterly wind will 
 probably be light with fine clear weather, but this will not last 
 above a few hours if the barometer continues to fall ; on the 
 contrary, the wind will gradually increase, and as it does so the 
 sky will become overcast by degrees until it is completely clouded- 
 Rain and fug will follow, and continue during the continuance of 
 the easterly wind with little intermission, until they arc dissipated 
 by a fresh breeze from the contrary quarter. 
 
 If the fall of the barometer, during the continuance of the 
 easterly wind, be very slow, the gale will probably continue, and 
 not be very violent : if rapid, it will probably be of short duration, 
 and of greater strength : at any rate, when the mercury falls towards 
 29 inches, a change is certainly at hand, and the gale will in 
 general come from the N. W. The strength of this succeeding 
 gale will be in proportion to the fall of the barometer, and to 
 tlie strength of the easterly gale which preceded it. In such 
 a case, there is seldom many hours interval between the one gale 
 and the other. Tlie east wind generally dies away to calm, and 
 in a very few hours, or sometimes in much less time, the N. W. 
 gale springs up. A heavy cross sea remains for some time from 
 the previous gulc. The barometer sometimes begins to rise in 
 the interval of culm which precedes tlic N. W. gale, at others ut 
 its commencement : the fog uiul ruin cease, and the weather be- 
 comes quite clear, generally in a few hours, and sometimes almost 
 immediately. The strength of the westerly gale is usually greatest 
 soon after its commencement, and diminishes as the barometer 
 rises, veering gradually to the west and S.W. It is worthy of 
 remark, that llie circumstances just mentioned ure exactly tin- 
 reverse of those attending llic eiibtcily gale, 'llic latter iibually 
 cuuunences witli clear weather luul a hi^h buiunieler, light at first 
 
 and of N. fV. 
 
 i!'l 
 
 !|ll 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 9 
 
 ! of the 
 me, and 
 luration, 
 towards 
 will in 
 ceeding 
 and to 
 In such 
 me gale 
 ilm, and 
 leN.W. 
 Imc from 
 rise in 
 ithcrs ut 
 her bc- 
 |s almost 
 greatest 
 Tometcr 
 orthy of 
 |ctly tin' 
 )t»iially 
 it at first 
 
 from the south or S.E., and gradually increasing as it vcen to Marine Baro*'- 
 the eastward, with a falling barometer. To return to the westerly *** /^ ' 
 
 gale. — If, after it has veered to S.W. and become moderate, the ">v.' 
 
 barometer remains steady at a moderate height, fine weather may 
 be expected. If it remains at a considerable height, but still fluc- 
 tuating and unsteady, within certain limits, variable, but not 
 heavy winds, and variable weather may be expected. If, on the 
 contrary, it rises quickly to a great height, a repetition of the 
 easterly gale will not be improbable. We have experienced 
 seasons in which the barometer may be said to have been no 
 sooner blown up by one wind, than it has been blown down by 
 another, and this stormy alternation to have continued for several 
 months, whilst in others we have scarcely had a double-reefed 
 top sail breeze during the whole summer. 
 
 There is in fact so great a difference in the phenomena of the 
 weather in different seasons, that it becomes very difficult to 
 write anything respecting it, that shall not be liable to many ex- 
 ceptions. There are, however, some strongly marked cases of 
 connexion, between the indications of the barometer and changes Certmniif of in 
 of the winds and weather, which, within our experience of eight ""'«•'"'""•*• 
 or nine years, have been subject to few, I might almost say no, 
 exceptions. The first of these cases is that most common one, 
 which I have endeavoured to describe, of an easterly gale, with a 
 falling barometer, being always wet and foggy, and succeeded by 
 a strong wind from the opposite quarter with a rising barometer. 
 A second case, not of so frequent occurrence in common seasons, 
 excepting in spring or early in summer, is the easterly wind with 
 a rising barometer ; which, although it may not be at first for a 
 few hours, will almost always become fine and clear, and end 
 in fine weather. A third case may be considered certain : if the 
 barometer fall suddenly and greatly, at any time, a northerly, and 
 most probably a N. W. gale, of great strength, may be confidently 
 expected. It does not follow that it will be immediate, for it may 
 be preceded by a strong gale from S. W., for a few hours, during 
 which the barometer will seldom rise, and even, probably, con- 
 tinue to fall, but when the S. W. gale dies away, the northerly, or 
 N.W. will soon succeed, with a rising barometer. 
 
 In conclusion, I may remark that as, on the one hand, a con- 
 siderable fall of the barometer may occur, without being followed 
 by a strung wind ; so, on the other, a breeze of considerable 
 
 
 •I 
 
 n 
 
 
i 
 
 I! i I 
 
 1 ! 
 
 10 
 
 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Marine Baro- Strength may come on without any indication from the baro- 
 meter : but not anything that deserves the name of a gale. There 
 has never, within our experience, occurred a gale, so heavy as to 
 be of serious consequence to a good vessel, the approach of which 
 has not been indicated by the barometer. But it must be re- 
 membered that a high barometer, in this climate, and under the 
 circumstances which I have mentioned, is often indicative of an 
 easterly gale. It is remarkable that, in the gulf and estuary of 
 the St. Lawrence, a high barometer may be considered as the fore- 
 runner of wet and fo^y weather, which usually accompanies its 
 fall : whilst a low barometer rendere it equally probable that dry 
 weather will ensue, since it often accompanies its rise. I am fully 
 of opinion, that the marine barometer is of the greatest assistance 
 in the navigation of the Gulf and River St. Lawrence, and that 
 by attending constantly to its state and changes, with reference 
 to the winds and weather which preceded them, combined with 
 the indications afforded by the appearance of the sky, &c., those 
 changes of the wind and weather, which are about to take place, 
 may be anticipated with a degree of certainty sufficient, in most 
 cases, to enable us to avoid being caught on a lee-shore, or in an 
 unsafe anchorage, as well as to regulate our course in a voyage, in 
 anticipation of the coming change. 
 
 Ill 
 
 m 
 
 Kill 
 
 iiiii! 
 
 ill! 
 
CURRENTS AND TIDES. 
 
 11 
 
 3! 
 
 '/I 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 •H 
 
 h 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS RE8FECTIN6 THE CURRENTS AND TIDAL 
 STREAMS IN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 10. Prevailing Currents. — 11. Currents at the Entrance of the Oulf. — 
 12. Current in through the Strait of Belle Isle. — 13. Its Course 
 after entering the Gulf. — 14? Main Current of the River. — 15. Its 
 Course and Rate. — 16. Round Point de Monts. — 17. Along the South 
 Coast. — 18. Remarks on the Tides of the North Coast, eastward of 
 Point de Monts. 
 
 10. The time of high water on the full and change days of the Prevailing 
 moon, and the rise in spring and neap tides at different places, ^'"■'*"'*' 
 will be found in the Table at the end of this book. Local pecu- 
 liarities will be mentioned in their proper places. At present I 
 shall chiefly confine myself to a general description of those great 
 currents, and tidal streams, which, although they may be subject 
 to occasional interruption and modification, seem, nevertheless, to 
 depend on constantly existing causes. These currents extend 
 over very large spaces, though varying according to locality and 
 other circumstances, and they are altogether so important a feature 
 in the navigation, that some general knowledge respecting them 
 is indispensable both to the safety and expedition of vessels in the 
 gidf and estuary of the St. Lawrence. 
 
 11. It is a generally received opinion that a current sets con- Currents at the 
 stantly to the south-eastward out of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, c!^^""'" "■^ "" 
 between Newfoundland and Cape Breton Islands, and also that 
 it is frequently deflected to the southward, towards the shores of 
 the island last named, by another current from the northward, 
 which is said to enter the Gulf by the Strait of Belle Isle. 
 
 I have myself observed that a current sets out, between Cape s. E. Current 
 Ray and St. Paul Island, during westerly winds and in calm ^''""^ '*' ^"^^ 
 weather ; but it is checked by easterly winds, and I believe that it 
 may sometimes run in a contrary direction from the same cause. 
 Northerly winds, and perhaps also the above-named current from 
 the northward, may cause the stream to set to the southward 
 towards Cape Breton Island. But the truth is, that winds, buth 
 present and ut u distance, possess so powerful and irregular uu 
 
 1 1 
 ii 
 
I 
 
 12 
 
 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 i i 
 
 I i 
 
 ll! ! 
 
 Currentt al the 
 enlroMe of the 
 Qu(f. 
 
 Current in 
 through Belle 
 Ule Strait. 
 
 Sometime* it 
 teti out. 
 
 Courte of above 
 Current up the 
 Gulf 
 
 action upon the set and strength of the currents and tides in this 
 entrance of the Gulf, that I can say nothing certain or definite 
 respecting them. 
 
 12. The reality of a current inwards through the Strait of 
 Belle Isle, is confirmed by the presence of icebergs, which it 
 transports into the gulf every summer, against the prevailing 
 S. W. winds ; frequently carrying them as far as Mecatina, 
 and sometimes even to the neighbourhood of the east point of 
 Anticosti. It is probable that this is a branch of the great cur- 
 rent from Davis Strait, which is known to run along the coast of 
 Labrador, and to transport numerous ice-bergs far to the south- 
 ward every year. This current will be mentioned again under the 
 head of the Strait of Belle Isle. Its strength is very much in- 
 creased by a prevalence of N. E. winds : at such times it runs 
 at the rate of 2 knots, through the strait, and for 30 to 40 
 miles further to the westward ; diminishing gradually in force as 
 it spreads out in the wider parts of the Gulf. Usually, however, 
 its rate is much less. At times, when S. W. winds prevail, it be- 
 comes very weak ; and it has even been reported to me, that a 
 current has been observed setting out of the Gulf, in a contrary 
 direction, to the N. £., for days together, but this was never ob- 
 served by us during either of the three seasons which we passed 
 there. There is, however, no doubt that this current is extremely 
 irregular, as might be expected at the narrow outlet of a great 
 inland sea, where winds, both within and without, must of neces- 
 sity possess great influence. 
 
 13. After entering the Gulf, it runs along the north, or La- 
 brador coast, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the outer islands ; 
 leaving a narrow space inshore, in which the streams of the tides, 
 when uninfluenced by winds, are tolerably regular. Passing out- 
 side of Mistanoque, the islands of Grand Mecatina, and the South 
 Maker's Ledge, it pursues a direction given to it by the trending 
 of the coast, till it is turned gradually to the southward, by the 
 weak current which is often found coming from the westward l)c- 
 tween Anticosti and the north coast, during westerly winds, and 
 which is set off to the southward from Natashquan Point. The 
 united streams continue their southern course at a rate diminish- 
 ing as they become moVe widely spread, and which seldom exceeds 
 half a knot : and, fiuiilly, joining tlic main downward current out 
 of the St. Lawrence, uf which an account will be given immediately, 
 
 J 
 
CURRENTS AND TIDES. 
 
 13 
 
 1, or La- 
 ielands ; 
 the tides, 
 Ising out- 
 Ihe South 
 trending 
 |d, by the 
 irard he- 
 Inda, and 
 lit. The 
 liminish- 
 excecds 
 ircnt out 
 icdiatcly, 
 
 they all pursue a S. E. direction towards the main entrance of the Couru o/abnve 
 
 Gulf, between Cape Ray and the Island of St. Paul. It is this ^^^ "'"*• 
 
 current, from the northward, which is felt by vessels crossing from 
 
 off the Bird Rocks towards Anticosti : and which, together with . 
 
 neglecting to allow for the local attraction of the compass, has 
 
 been the principal cause of masters of vessels so often finding 
 
 themselves, unexpectedly, on the south coast. Many shipwrecks 
 
 have arisen from this cause near Cape Rosier, Gasp^, Mai 
 
 Bay, &c. 
 
 Both these currents, viz., that from the northward, and the Effect of the 
 main downward current of the St. Lawrence, are modified by the 'i,** "» '*•» 
 tides, but in a way directly contrary : for the northern current, in 
 through the Strait of Belle Isle, is accelerated by the flood, and 
 checked by the ebb ; whilst the other is accelerated by the ebb, 
 and checked by the flood tide. These modifying causes, namely, 
 the tides and winds, give rise to various combinations, and con- 
 sequent irregularities, in the direction and strength of these 
 streams, which it is extremely difficult at all times to estimate 
 and allow for correctly. 
 
 14. The current along the south coast appears to be superficial : Main Current 
 nt least we found it so in the lower parts of the estuary, where "-^ ' River- 
 obsei-vations upon the specific gravity of the water on the sur- 
 face, and taken up from different depths, proved to us that the 
 water of the St. Lawrence and its numerous tributary streams 
 was widely diffused over the Estuary.* It has also been observed 
 
 • I give the following out of a number of observations, made by Dr. Kelly on Temperature of 
 board the Gulnaie, not alone with reference to the nature of the current, but as '^ river. 
 also showing, that a very moderate degree of agitation of the water is sufficient 
 at times to mingle the warmer surface water with the colder substrata, which 
 always exist at a few fathoms of depth, and thus, by a reduction of tem- 
 perature uf the surface, produce, if the state of the air and dew point be 
 favourable, one of those low fogs, which can often be seen over from the 
 mast-head. 
 
 On the 8th July, IS31, we crossed from near Matan, on the south coast, to 
 
 St. Nicholas Harbour, on the north, with a light S- W. wind and fine weather, 
 
 and during the flood tide; when near the middle of the Estuary, we had 132 
 
 fathoms over a bottom of blue mud. The temperature of the air 04" 
 
 Fahrenheit, 
 
 Specific gravity 
 (examined itt 50" Fahr.) 
 Dew Point by Daniel's Hygrometer 58° 
 
 Water at the surface 60° 1-0180 
 
 ,, 30 fathoms 35° 1-0260 
 
 ,, 50 fathoms 34° 1'0265 
 
 A fresh breeze from the westward commeaced in the evening, and con- 
 
 
 n 
 
 ■1 
 
 ,1 
 
w 
 
 pi I 
 
 ill! 
 Ill 
 
 !i 
 
 l"ii 
 
 il! 
 
 14 
 
 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Afain Current that the currciit is Strongest in spring, soon after the opening of 
 o/ihe Ktver. ^j^^ navigation, when the rivers are swelled by the recently dis- 
 solved snows of the winter. But, although, generally speaking, 
 
 Tetnperafureo/^^'^^^ "^ »ight, which tedured the temperature of the surface water to 39o 
 the river. by 9 a.m., on the morning of the 9th, when the temperature of the air was 62° 
 
 with a dense fog, the wind having died away to a light breeze, The fog 
 was seen over from the rigging 40 or 50 feet above the sea. At noon it was 
 calm, and the temperature of the surface had risen to 57°, and the fog in 
 consequence had nearly, but not entirely disappeared. 
 
 On the 9th July, 1831, at noon, we were becalmed 2 or 3 miles to the 
 southward of Point de Moots, and carried to the S. S. E., at the rate of 
 1^ knots, by the current. It was nearly high water by the shore, and, 
 consequently, about an hour and a half before the time when the stream of 
 flood ceases. 
 
 Specific gravity 
 (examined at SO" Fulir.) 
 
 The temperature of the air . 
 Dew Point 
 
 >» 
 
 62' 
 
 61° 
 
 57° . . 
 
 44°] By Six's 
 
 40° > Register 
 
 38°) Therm. 
 
 OO m • • 
 
 1-0172 
 
 water at the surface . 
 ,, 4 a fathom. 
 , , 5 fathoms . 
 , > > 10 fathoms . 
 
 ,, ,, 100 fathoms. 35° . . . 1-0275 
 
 During the night we had a very strong breeze, which, by the morning of 
 the 10th, had reduced the temperature of the surface water to 37<', and the 
 air to 44°. 
 
 On the 19th June 1832. Point de Monts, N.6l°.E. distant 7 miles. 
 Time of tide, half ebb. Wind light, from the westward. Rate of current, 2 
 knots to the S.S.E. 
 
 The temperature of the air . 
 Dew Point 
 
 »» 
 >i 
 it 
 )> 
 
 49° 
 
 Specific gravity 
 (Examined at 50° Va 
 
 44° 
 
 
 44° 
 
 . . 1-0189 
 
 37i° 
 
 . . 1 -0-232 
 
 39° 
 
 . . 1-0246 
 
 33° 
 
 . . 1-0262 
 
 36° 
 
 . . 1-0275 
 
 ahr.) 
 
 water at the surface . 
 , , 10 fathoms 
 , , 20 fathoms 
 , , 47 fathoms 
 , , , , 104 fathoms 
 
 On this last occasion, the line and attached machine remained perpendi- 
 cular, from which we inferred that the whole budy of witter moved di)wn the 
 Estuary in the ebb tide. At the time of the preci-ding observations the line 
 remained {lerpendicular only as long as the machine was not lowered down 
 beyond 3 fathoms from the surface. At 5 fathoms the line drew strongly out 
 to the N. N. W., and still more strongly when the machine was lowered to 
 greater depths. Hence it appeared, that in the flood tide, only a thin 
 superstratum of comparatively light and warm water moves down, and that 
 the colder and heavier water beneath is eitht-r stationary, or moving up the 
 Estuary. 
 
 It also appears fvom the preceding, and many other similar observations, 
 that in fine weather, the comparatively warm and fresh water of the St. Law- 
 rence, and its numerous tributary streams, floats on the surface, but that 
 when the waters are agitated, by any cause, it becomes mingled with the 
 constantly cold water bunenth. The temperature of the surface, therefuie, 
 de^iendsless upon the warmth than upon (he strvugth of the winds. 
 
 \ 
 
CURRENTS AND TIDES. 
 
 15 
 
 Kning of 
 intly dis- 
 ipeaking, 
 
 ter to 39« 
 lit was 62" 
 , The fog 
 loon it was 
 the fog in 
 
 liles to the 
 ;fce rate of 
 shore, and, 
 B stream of 
 
 Ic graTily 
 alSOOFu 
 
 Wir.) 
 
 1'0172 
 
 1«0275 
 
 i morning of 
 
 }7», and the 
 
 int 7 miles, 
 of current, 2 
 
 fie gravity . 
 Ut80»rtthr.. 
 
 .) 
 
 0189 
 0232 
 0246 
 0262 
 •0275 
 d perpendi- 
 d di)wn the 
 una the line 
 wered down 
 itrongly out 
 lowered to 
 nly a thin 
 1, and that 
 iiug up the 
 
 bservations, 
 lie St. Law- 
 to, but that 
 led wilh the 
 k, thetefoiei 
 Is. 
 
 there seems no doubt that this current is the tribute of the St. Main Current 
 Lawrence on its way to the ocean ; yet, iu tho upper part of the "-' ' '"""■ 
 estuary it is not alone, and at all times, caused by the discharge 
 of the St. Lawrence, but ili ])ends also upon peculiarities in the 
 set of the tides. Thus, when our observations had confirmed the 
 truth of the report, that the current always ran down on the south 
 side of the Estuary from a few miles below Red Island towards 
 the Island of Bic, we could not at first account for the fact ; for it 
 appeared impossible that this could be the comparatively fresh 
 water of the St. Lawrence flowing on the surface towards the sea, 
 when we knew that the whole body of water a few miles above, 
 from shore to shore, on either side of Hare Island, and also in the 
 Saguenay River, was running up during the flood tide. Atten- 
 ,} tion, and numerous observations, together with an examination of 
 
 the temperature and specific gravity of the water, informed us 
 that this was an eddy flood, which is thus explained. 
 
 The flood tide ascends in a wide channel more than 100 The EMyFlood 
 fathoms deep : when it arrives at the comparatively narrow pass downward 
 formed by Green Island, Red Islet Reef, and the extensive shoals current. 
 oflF the entrance of the Saguenay River, it is obstructed thereby, 
 as well as by the shoalness of the channel to the southward of 
 Hare Island. There is not room for so great a volume of water 
 to pass, and part of it is in consequence turned back, and forms 
 an eddy flood, setting from below Red Islet Reef, towards the 
 Razade Islets, as shown by the arrows in the chart. During the 
 ebb tide, the stream of the Saguenay sets over to the southward 
 in the same direction, hence the current on that side is always 
 down.* 
 
 * Since the eddy flood above mentioned exercises a considerable influence Low Fogg pro- 
 over the climate near the shore off which it runs (its course being from the duced by this 
 Red Islet Reef passing near the Ra«ade Islets to the Island of Bic) ; and «^'^<jfloo>i' 
 also, occasions those dense and low fogs, and peculiar forms of mirage, 
 or terrestiial refraction, which depend upon a temperature of the surface 
 water lower than that of the air, or its dew point ; it may not be altogether 
 devoid of interest to give a few additional remarks concerning it. 
 
 Of the fact of iis being really the stream of flood, although running down Proofs of its 
 the Estuary, we had ample opportunity of convincing ourselves ; especially Aei«// the eddy 
 during the nine or ten days we were employed in sumiding within .^'""^* 
 the limits above mentioned ; and during wbicli we made itinny observations 
 with the object of ascertaining the set, stren;;th, and course of this peculiar 
 stream. I select the remarks made on the 10th July, 1831, as being alone 
 nearly sufficient to establish the fact of this part of the general down- 
 ward s( ream, or current, being the flood tide. The Gidnare was then at anchor, 
 in 10 fathoms, about 1 mile N.U. of the eastern liaziule Islet. In the 
 
 Jl; 
 I 
 
 M 
 
f j . .» 
 
 i 
 
 IG 
 
 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 I! 
 f 
 
 I iiii 
 
 p 11 ' 
 
 ii: 
 
 Mm' 
 
 ii 
 
 !!li! 
 
 EtMij FloatI, There is no upward stream of the tide (excepting so close in- 
 shore as to be useless to ships) all along the south coast from 
 
 last quarter ebb the stieatn ceased, being prevented from coining to us by 
 the shoals, which are dry at low water, between Green and Basque Islands, 
 and the main, but it still continued to run strongly down a short distance 
 outside of our anchorage. 
 
 There was no stream at the vexsel until it was past a quarter flood by the 
 shore, when the downward stream commenced aud continued during the 
 remainder of the flood at a greater rale than during the preceding or follow* 
 ing ebbs. Soon after hi^h water by the shore the downward stream again 
 ceased for a short time, after which the flrst of the ebb came oiF the shoals, 
 and then turned down the estuary as before. Now it appears that the eddy 
 flood did not reach us till the end of tlie first quarter flood by the shore, 
 because time was necessary for the tide to ascend the deep and unobstructed 
 channel to the northward, and to rise and accumulate at the obstructed part 
 of the channel above uh, before it was compelled in part to retrograde, and 
 descend to us through a distance of 16 or 17 miles. It ceased agnin soon 
 after high water, because the slruain of flood had ceased above, there being 
 only a few minutes' diflerence in the times of high water at the two places, 
 
 A. ship becalmed below the Red Islet Reel was brought down to us by the 
 eddy flood, and drifted past about half a mile outside of us. And, on another 
 occasion, during the flood tide, wheu we sailed from near Red Islet to off 
 Bicquette, passing within 2 or 3 miles of the Razades, we were carried a-head 
 of our reckoning at the average rate of '2| knots per hour. W hen beating; 
 against a westerly wind, on many occasions, between the Island of Bic and 
 the Razades, we never could gain groimd to windward, excepting during the 
 lost quarter of the ebb and the first of the flood tide. 
 
 The specific gravity of the water of this stream during flood tide vas found 
 to be nearly as great as the surface water of the Gulf, and higher than that of 
 the Kstuary lower down ; and it was also, like the latter, when taken from con- 
 siderable depths, or when violently agitated by strong winds, extremely cold. 
 Its temperature was usually between 38° and 45°, and was never ibund 
 higher than 49'^, Fahrenheit. We have seen it as b.w us 39° in every month 
 from June to September inclusive, and that at times and imdur circumstances 
 when the surface water of the Kstuary in other parts was usually about 60°, 
 and when the fresh water of the St. Lawrence above was at an equally high 
 temperature, ^he great specific gravity and low temperature of this stream 
 are incumpatililo with the popular supposition of its being, iu tliis part, thu 
 lighter and fresher water ui the St, Lawrence flowing on the surface toward* 
 the sea. 
 
 To the buiiie cause which gives rise to the retrograde course of this stream 
 of flood must also be attributed its superior specific gravity and low 
 temperature. For as the great body of the flood tide, moving in the deep 
 North t'hannel, meets with resiatanre at tlus shoals of the Saguenay and 
 Red Islet, the cold water of the ICstuary, which everywhere exists at a very 
 moderate depth, is forced to the surface, and thus, together with the irre- 
 gular bottom, gives rise to the violent whirls aud rippKs which abound in 
 that vicinity. The thin superstratum of warmer water is thus mingled with, 
 and lost, in the superior quantity of colder water from bcueath, aud a great 
 reduction of temperature eHected, 
 Caioe nf A«M'- May not the low temperature often found over shoal* in the sea be attri- 
 I'uumUand I ojt. butcd to u similar cuuie, iinil c»pucially thu lower temperature uf the water 
 
 water; i 
 in its rc( 
 The strci 
 minishes 
 of about ; 
 Blrcngth I 
 
 •>n the Bati 
 for the gn 
 Labrador i 
 <l>e southwi 
 forced to Ih 
 the prvvalci 
 
CURRENTS AND TIDES. 
 
 n 
 
 close in- 
 ttst from 
 
 g to u« by 
 le Islands, 
 t distance 
 
 lood by the 
 during the 
 ; or foUow- 
 eam a^am 
 the shoals, 
 at the eddy 
 ^the shore, 
 nobstructed 
 ttucted part 
 ograde, and 
 ag>iin soon 
 there bting 
 ro places, 
 to us by the 
 1, on another 
 (I Islet to off 
 arried a-htail 
 /hen beating 
 i of Bic and 
 g during the 
 
 (le >. as found 
 than that of 
 [on from con- 
 tremely cold, 
 nevur found 
 every month 
 ircunistunces 
 ly about 60°, 
 ijually high 
 th\» strenin 
 liis \iiirt, the 
 liicu toward* 
 
 t' this struiim 
 ty and low 
 in the dei-p 
 agiiuuay and 
 Ists at li vi-ry 
 ifiih the irie- 
 (h abound in 
 linglcd with, 
 and a grrut 
 
 Hua be ttttri- 
 1 of the water 
 
 Cape GasjH^ to a few miles below Red Islet, in consequence of 
 the union of this eddy flood witli the main current of the river ; 
 and they have, therefore, so mucli iiiflucuce on the navigation 
 that I shall endeavour to trace their course more iiarticularly. 
 
 15. Commencing from a short distance below the Red hlet Course and 
 Kcer, the current is there very strong — about 4 knots. It de- jiiain Current, 
 creases in velocity as it proceeds to the south-eastward, slanting 
 over towards the Razade Islets; ofl' which its rate is from 2 to 3 
 knots. It runs strongly along the northern edge of the Bank of 
 Soundings off the south coust, upon which, especially in spring 
 tides, a weak stream of flood will be found flowing in the opposite 
 direction, and the boundary of the two streams is usually marked 
 by a strong ripple. From Fatlier Point to Cape Chatte, the rate 
 of the downward current varies from a half to 2 knots, according 
 to the tide, direction of the winds, and season of the year. 
 
 During the ebb tide the stream runs down on both Buhs, during the Ebb, 
 stronger on the south than on the north coast, and weakest in the 
 middle of the Estuary.- It is deflected, or turned off to the south- 
 ward, by the Points Mille-Vaches, Bersimis, Manicouagon, and 
 Point de Monts, ftud by the ebbing streams of the large rivers be- 
 tween them : a circumstance which shoidd be carefully attended 
 to by vessels coming up with a northerly wind ; as they will in- 
 fallibly be set over to the southward upon a lee-shore, if they do 
 not make the necessary allowance by keeping their wind well over 
 to the northward. 
 
 During the flood tide this stream still continues to run down during the 
 outside the Bank of Soundings off the south coast, although with "^ ' 
 diminished velocity, and is felt about half way over towards the 
 north shore. In the middle of the Estuary there is usually slack 
 water ; whilst along the north coast the stream of flood is regidar 
 in its recurrence, increasing in force as we ".sccnd the Estuary. 
 The strength of the stream of flood is greatest in-shorc, and di- 
 minishes as we jiroceed over to the southward, till at the distnnec 
 of about 3 leagues it l)ec(mies insensible. The^e differences in the 
 strength and direction uf the streams produce strong ripples in t»(„iu,Tf 
 
 on the Bank of Newfouiidliiiid, as compared with the neiijhliourinj; sen P 
 for the great niirint, wliuli liriiitfs thu irehtTgs down nloiii: tlii' fonst of 
 Labrador from this norihward. must nuit with obhtnutidu in itN i-oiiiitf to 
 the southward from Ihi'sc H.nikii. unit the cold wntcr. in fi usoqui iicc, be 
 forcud 1o the surfiire ; and, if tills lie so, we may probably find a ri'U»ui> lor 
 the prevaleuce uf fogs upuu thutu liankx. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
iyii!' 
 
 18 
 
 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 round Point (le 
 Alonti, 
 
 :'iM: 
 
 Main Current, various parts of the Estuary, but their position varies with the 
 different times of tide, and perhnps from other causes, so that they 
 cannot safely be trusted for any guidance to the seaman. 
 
 16. Round Point de Monts there is little or no stream of flood, 
 ex"';pting very close in-shore : the downward current is constant, 
 or nearly so off that point ; and it requires a fast-sailing vessel to 
 beat round it against a westerly wind. Point de Monts turns this 
 current over to the S. S. E., at a rate varying from 1 to 2 knots ; 
 80 that a vessel, having a west wind, and standing over to the 
 southward on the starboard tack, will be carried towards the south 
 coast at a rapid rate, having the current on her weather quarter; 
 during her board back to the northward, she will be retarded, 
 the current being then directly opposed to her course. When 
 sailing at the rate of 4 knots, it will usually require only about 
 half the time to go from near Point de Monts over to the south 
 coast, that it will take to return from the latter to the former. 
 This is a most important circumstance, which it is necessary to 
 carefully guard against, when beating up the Estuary in this part 
 during dark nights, and, especially, in foggy weather. 
 hf/ow Point (le 17. Bclow Point de Monts the current is no longer felt near 
 to "I'/wS '^mir *^^'^ north coast, nor, indeed, anywhere to the northward of a line 
 joining Point de Monts and Anticosti. It is confined to the 
 neighbourhood of the south coast, which it follows in its curve to 
 the southward, running strongly past Cape Gasp^, Flat Island, 
 and Bonaventure Island ; whence curving gradually to the south 
 and S. E., it continues its course towards the entrance of the 
 Gulf, with a rate very much lessened in conseipience of the great 
 space over which it is now spread. The usual breadth of this 
 stream from Magdalen River to Cape Gaspe is 3 or 4 leagues ; 
 but this, I believe, is not uniform. When S.W. winds prevail, 
 it appears that this current, or a branch of it, is driven over from 
 the vicinity of Magdalen River towards Anticosti ; part of the 
 stream running round the west point of that island, sets across 
 neinly towards hiirge Island, (one of the Mingans,) whence 
 turning gradually down outside the Mingan and Esquimaux 
 Islands, and along tlic nortli coast, it sweeps round the curve 
 to the westward of NatasJKiuun Point, and is turned off to 
 the P(i\itl)wnrd, as lias been nlnudy inentioncd, (art. l.'i). The 
 other |iiMt sweeps niund the larije curve, or l)ay, lielween the 
 wi>t mid S. \V. |iiiinl»' of Aiitieo^li, and is luiueduH'to the south- 
 
CURRENTS AND TIDES. 
 
 19 
 
 1 of flood, 
 constant, 
 r vessel to 
 turns this 
 ( 2 knots ; 
 tet to the 
 1 the south 
 r quarter; 
 I retarded, 
 ic. "When 
 only ahout 
 > the south 
 the former, 
 lecessary to 
 in this part 
 
 ir felt near 
 rd of a line 
 ned to the 
 Its curve to 
 at Island, 
 o the south 
 nee of the 
 )f the great 
 idth of this 
 4 leagues ; 
 ids prevail, 
 1 over from 
 part of the 
 
 BCtS IVCVOSS 
 
 i,) whence 
 
 Ks'piimiuix 
 
 the curve 
 
 ncd ofV to 
 
 iwfcu the 
 ihe utiulh- 
 
 ward by the latter point, frequently causing a great ripple off it, Main Current, 
 which has been mistaken for breakers on a much more extensive 
 reef than exists there. 
 
 I have noted the rate of this current, off different parts oi iusirfngthveri/ 
 the south coast between Capes Chatte and Gasp^, in the months 
 of June, July, August, and September, and in different years, 
 and scarcely ever found it the same. It varied between 1 and 
 2 knots in westerly winds. It was weaker, often nearly insensible, 
 iu easterly winds ; and in one instance, off Mont Louis River 
 in a calm which was followed by a strong breeze from the east- 
 ward, it could not be perceived. 
 
 18. Vessels beating up the St. Lawrence against westerly Tutes regular 
 winds usually experience little diflSculty in making good "^^^y ""f j>,in"je 
 to windward, after having weathered the west point of Anticosti Monti, 
 and arrived on the north coast; because there is seldom any 
 current on that side, and the tides, although weak, arc tolerably 
 regular. It is in general very easy to beat from the Seven 
 Islands to Point de Monts; for there the strqpm of flood is 
 stronger than the ebb ; the latter, as well as the current, being 
 turned off to the southward by Point de Monts. There seems, at 
 times, also to be an eddy current there, sweeping round the great 
 bay or curve between the above-named points. It sets off from 
 about Egg Islet to the S. S. W. ; and is the probable cause why 
 vessels, which shape a direct course for Point de Monts with a 
 leading N.W . wiiul off tl»e land at night, so often find themselves 
 obliged to haul up for, or unabli- lo fetch, the light. 
 
 Any further remarks respecting the tides and currents will be 
 of a more local nature, and will, therefore, be best given where the 
 particular places or parts of the coast are described. The ol)jcet 
 here was to give a condensed view of the i)rincipul streams wliich 
 mainly affect a vessel in her voyage either up or down tlirough 
 the Gulf and Estuary; and in the following Chapter will be found 
 their usual effects, and the allowances which should be t'ou- 
 8e(|ucntly made. 
 
 1 1 
 
 't 
 (I 
 
 •! 
 
30 
 
 ({ULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 CHAPTEIl HI. 
 
 r-ENERAI, niRECTIONS FOR NAVIGATING ^ilE GULF AND RIVER 
 OK ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 himlfnll. 
 
 h/iinil nf 
 Si. riiiit. 
 
 19. Vessels, enterinfT the Gulf should endeavour to malce the Island of 
 St. Paul. — 20. St. Paul Island to the Bird Rocks and Magdalen 
 Islands. — 21. Bird Rocks to the Island of Anticusti. — 22. The Passage 
 northward of Anticosti. — 23. The Passage southward of Anticosti. — 
 2^. Anticosti to Point de Monts, with fair and with beating Winds,^ 
 • 25. Point dc Monts to Bicquette Island, with easterly Winds and thick 
 weather. An instance of the fatal consequences of neglecting the 
 Deviation of the Compass. Pilots. — 26. Point de Monts to Bicquette 
 with southerly and with northerly Winds. Instances of the effects of the 
 Currents and Tides. — 27. Bicquette to Green Island Lighthouse. — 
 2S. Beating up the Estuary with westerly Winds.— 29. Returning 
 down the EiituHry and Gulf. 
 
 19. Vessels bound to Canada, or to any of the ports in the 
 Gulf of St. Ijawrcnce, should endeavour to make the Island of 
 St. Paul, which, being of considerable elevation and bold all 
 round, may, with care and a good look out, be made at night, or 
 even in fogs, unless the former be very dark or the latter very 
 thick. 
 
 On this island a lighthouse is about to be erected which 
 will be of the utmost assistance to mariners; it lies in the 
 miiin entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, between Cape Ray, 
 at the S. W. extremity of Newfoundland, and Cape North, near 
 the northern extremity of Cape Breton Island. From the south 
 |)()iiit (if the Island of St. Paul, Cape North bears W.S. W.JW. 
 by compass,* distant 13 miles; and from the north point of 
 the same island, Cape Hay bears E. by N., distant 41^ miles. 
 In approaching St. I'aul from the S. E. with northerly winds, 
 I ho current, which I have before mentioned as ut times coming 
 from the northward, and sotting towards the shore of Cape 
 Itrcton, should be guarded against. The south coast of Ncw> 
 
 ''' In (hi'NU Diri'ctiuni all bearingi ure magnetic, or given by comimss, 
 uiili'NN when the contrary is fxpres-ud. The lAtitudes and longitudes of the 
 |<riuci|ial (luiiits, variation, ^c, will bu iountl iu u table at tbo tJud uf thu book. 
 
DIRECTIONS ACROSS THE GULF. 
 
 21 
 
 ID RIVER 
 
 ! Island of 
 . Ma|;dalen 
 ho Passage 
 \ntico8ti. — 
 g WindH. — 
 Is and thick 
 [lecting the 
 to Bicquette 
 •ffeetsofthe 
 ghthouse. — 
 I. Retaining 
 
 irts in the 
 J Island of 
 d bold all 
 it night, or 
 atter very 
 
 ted which 
 
 lies in the 
 
 I Cape Ray, 
 
 forth, near 
 
 the south 
 
 Is.w.iw. 
 
 point of 
 
 ,lj miles. 
 
 fly winds, 
 
 ^08 coming 
 
 of Cape 
 
 of Ncw- 
 
 ny comiNisSi 
 Itiidus uf thu 
 lofthobouk. 
 
 
 foundland, eastward of Cape Ray, is broken, rocky, and dan- ^voiJ s. cmii 
 gerous. The tides and currents, being influenced by the winds, /„„,/. 
 are irregular ; whilst all southerly and easterly winds, and often 
 also south-westerly winds, bring a thick fog, which is most dense 
 near the lee-shore. On these accounts, tliis coast should not be 
 approached, excepting with a decided northerly wind and clear 
 weather. (For description of St. Paul, see art. 30.) 
 
 20. After having made St. Paul, vessels bound to Canada Frovi si. Pmii 
 should endeavour, if the weather be clear, to make the Bird '[i,^l^^ " 
 Rocks, the largest or south-eastermost of which bears from the 
 north point of St. Paul N. N.W. J W., 55 miles. 
 
 There is a deep channel between St. Paul and the bank on nirl ami Mnij- 
 which the .Magdalens, Bryon Island, and the Bird Rocks arc ^^^^ * '"" * 
 situated. This channel is 12 miles wide, and no soundings have 
 been found in it with 60 fathoms of line. Twelve miles N. W. 
 from St. Paul, on the S. E. extremity of the bank above mentioned, 
 there are 50 fathoms of water over a bottom of fine sand ; and 
 13j^ miles from the island, on the same line of t)earing, there 
 are 35 fathoms, the bottom being the same, with the occusional 
 addition of gravel. From tliis point the water shoals gradually 
 towards the Magdalens, distant 42 miles. Following the eastern 
 edge of the bunk to the northward, inclining gradually to the 
 N.W., regular soundings extend from 28 to 35 fathoms over 
 sand, stones, and broken shells; the latter depth being where 
 the Great Bird Rock bears W. N. W. ; and when the same rock 
 bears W.S.W.^W., distant 13^ miles, there will be 50 fathoms 
 over fine sand on the edge of the bank, oiV which there is no 
 bottom with 70 fathoms of line. At the distance of 10 miles 
 from the Rock, and on the same line of beiuing, there iire 43 
 fathoms; and at 6 miles 33 fathoms, shoaling gradually in to 
 24 fathoms, within a mile of the Rocks. This bank is an ex- 
 cellent g\iide uj) to the Bird Rocks at nijiht, or in thick weiitlier, 
 whicii almost always uccomimnies easterly and southerly winds : 
 but under such circunislances it will be sufer to run along the 
 northern edge of the bank, inking care not to come into less 
 than 40 fathoms, than to attempt to imike the Bird Rocks. 
 When well past them by the reckoning, a course can be shaped 
 up the Gulf. 
 
 In northerly winds the weather is tisually clear; and, if ihr .S7. I'.mi i., the 
 ship be fur enough to windward, it will bi' iulvisuble (o A\x\\\ to 1^"''''"^'" 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 J) 
 
 !l 
 
 
99 
 
 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 MagiMrn 
 hlunda. 
 
 'mm 
 
 iililv 
 
 W: 
 
 Bird Itoi'kt to 
 
 \ 
 
 Soiiniliiir/x fie- 
 tuieeit thtiii. 
 
 lirv'iMnif 
 Jm,IiI oil's If: 
 I'liinI of .in'i' 
 coxti. 
 
 lUnlh Point 
 LijIU, 
 
 
 the westward and endeavour to make Entry Island, taking care 
 to avoid Doyle Reef and the Sandy Spit oiF the east end of the 
 Magdalens, by not approaching the islands in that part nearer 
 than 20 fathoms. Under the led of these islands a smooth sea 
 will be found, sufficient guidance by the soundings, and good 
 shelter and excellent anchorage in Pleasant Bay. (See Chap. IV. 
 for a description of these islands.) 
 
 Another advantage of following this course arises from the 
 circumstance that the N.W. winds very generally veer to the 
 S. W., 80 that, if a vessel has passed to leeward of the Magdalens 
 with the northerly or N.W. winds on the starboard tack*, the 
 succeeding S. W. wind will enable her to stand on the opposite 
 tack towards Cape Gaspe. 
 
 From the north point of the Island of St. Paul to the east point 
 of the Magdalens the course is N. W.^ W., distance 56 miles; 
 and to Entry Island, N. VV. by W. | W., 63 miles. 
 
 2L From the north Bird Rock the lighthouse on the S. W. 
 point of tlie Island of Anticosti bears N. 46° 13' W. true, or 
 N.N. W. by compass, 134 miles ; and the east point of Anticosti 
 N. 14° 46' W. true, or N. % E. by compass, 80 miles. 
 
 After leaving the Bunk of Soundings, northward of the Bird 
 Rocks, the water is very deep all the way until near the shores of 
 Anticosti, there being no bottom with 80 fathoms of line, nor 
 probably at much greater depths. In making this part of the 
 voyage up the Gulf, the frequent current from the northward, 
 mentioned (art. 13) as having been one of the causes of ship- 
 wrecks in the neighbourhood of Capes Rozier and Gaspt?, Mai 
 Bay, &c., should be considered. Accidents, however, from this 
 cause can never occur if the lead be used ; for, upon consulting 
 tlic chart, it will be seen that there are soundings to be obtained 
 nearly all the way upon, and to the southward of, a line joining 
 the Bird Rocks and Cupe Gaspe, whilst a few miles to the north- 
 ward of that line tliere is no bottom with 80 fathoms of linn. 
 
 With a fair wind the oliject should be to make the lighthouse 
 or revolving light upon tlic S. W. point of Anticosti ; and, with 
 westerly winds, any ]mrt of the const of thnt island which can be 
 attained. When the lighthouse on IIei.i'i Point shall be lighted 
 it will be ciisy to make the cast end of tlie islaiul at night, if the 
 weather be clear ; and, if the weather lie tliick, the Bank of 
 Soundings, whicii extends oil' it '28 miles to the south-enstwanl, 
 
 \ 
 
 • » 
 
DIRECTIONS ACROSS THE GULP. 
 
 2$ 
 
 aking care 
 !nd of the 
 art nearer 
 mooth sea 
 and good 
 : Chap. IV. 
 
 I from the 
 ?eer to the 
 Magdalens 
 1 tack*, the 
 he opposite 
 
 e east point 
 \ 56 miles; 
 
 the S.W. 
 W. true, or 
 of Anticosti 
 
 of the Bird 
 
 he shores of 
 |of line, nor 
 [l)art of the 
 northward, 
 les of ship- 
 asp^, Mai 
 |r, from this 
 II consulting 
 Ibe obtained 
 line joining 
 the north- 
 |f line, 
 lighthouse 
 ; and, with 
 Ihich can be 
 1 be lighted 
 ight, if the 
 lie Bank of 
 h-enstwanl. 
 
 may seem to determine the vessel's position by the lead. At the 
 
 distance from the island above named there are 62 fathoms of ' 
 
 water, shoaling gradually in towards the island, as will be seen 
 
 by the chart. 
 
 22. In the event of a vessel being near the eastern extremity of Passaije North 
 Anticosti, and having succeeded in making the east point, or the "■' 
 light on Heath Point, with a S. W. wind, it will often be pre- 
 ferable to proceed to the northward of the island, where there is 
 a good channel, rather than to tack and stand back to the south- 
 ward and eastward. Under the lee of Anticosti she will, in this 
 casey^iave a smooth sea, and often also clear weather, whilst there 
 is a heavy swell and frequently a thick fog to windward of it. 
 She will, moreover, avoid the current out of the St. Lawrence, 
 which runs constantly with westerly winds between the south 
 coast and Anticosti ; and thus be able, at all times, to make way 
 to the westward in moderate weather. At night, or in foggy 
 weather, the Bank of Soundings off the north coast, and further 
 westward the banks off the Mingan Islands, will safely guide 
 her, even although the land should not be visible. 
 
 All the way from Natashquan Poiut to the River St. John, Banks between 
 westward of the Jvlincan Islands, there are banks of sand, erravcl, ^"'"s''^""'* 
 
 ° ' o ' „,fii i^t. John 
 
 broken shells, and bits of coral extending off the coast many river. 
 
 miles. Off the Mingan Islands these bunks extend halfway 
 
 across to Anticosti. The depth of water upon them is very 
 
 various : to the eastward, or below the Mingan Islands, it is Irrcf/ufar 
 
 in general between 30 and 50 fathoms ; but in some few places '' "' 
 
 it exceeds the latter depth, whilst in others there is as little as 19 
 
 fathoms. Abreast the islands there is still less water occasionally ; 
 
 but to the southward of tlicse banks, and between them and 
 
 Anticosti, there is a very deep channel ; in which, from opposite 
 
 the east point to opposite the west cliff, the soundings exceed 
 
 100 fathoms. Proceeding westward, the soundings gradually 
 
 decrease to CO fathoms off tlic north point, where they become 
 
 irregular for a few miles, varying from 50 to 70 fathoms, with 
 
 occasional rocky bottom; and then deepen again, with mud 
 
 bottom, further to the westward. In all this deep water channel, Ri,iemudin 
 
 with the single exception which has been stated, the bottom is, "!' '''''''' 
 r , ihunne/. 
 
 for Jie most part, of blue nuul. Such a remarkable difference in 
 
 the nature of the buttoni, as well as in tlic depth of water, renders 
 
 it comparatively easy to take a ship thvoutili this channel al niglit 
 
 II 
 
 3 
 
 1 1 
 
 ri 
 
 

 24 
 
 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 IP 
 
 
 ill "'I 
 
 ,!l!:v! 
 
 
 i- 
 
 I:. 
 
 IfeefiofSt. 
 Genevieve and 
 Huntmy h- 
 iandi. 
 
 Deceitful holet 
 in the Hanks. 
 
 Paunge North or in foggy Weather. But in order to effect this with safety the 
 uj I «CM I. ygggg] gjiould be furnished with Massey's patent sounding 
 machine and lead, or other similar instrument, which must be 
 freely used as she runs along the southern edge of the banks of 
 sand, gravel, and shells, sheering occasionally to the southward 
 into the deep water and muddy bottom, to make sure of not 
 getting too far to the northward. 
 
 The dangers of this channel may be said to commence with 
 the reefs off St. Genevieve and Hunting Islands ; on approaching 
 which from the eastward, the chart should be carefully consulted, 
 for they are very dangerous, and there are some deep water 
 soundings, between 50 and 10 fathoms inside the outer banks, 
 which might lead to a mistake if care were not taken to keep on 
 the southern edge of the outer banks. 
 
 These deep water soundings commence off the high peninsula 
 Watcheeshoo, and extend, irregularly, being deep holes in the 
 banks, to within a very short distance of Bowen Rocks off St. Ge- 
 nevieve Island. But the ship, if properly conducted, will be at 
 least 3 leagues to the southward of the rocks off St. Genevieve ; 
 and as there are soundings, in a moderate depth of water, 5 or 6 
 CuUint Shoal, miles from Collins Shoal, the outer danger off Hunting Island, 
 and the channel, excluding the reefs, is there 23 miles wide, there 
 seems no difficulty in this part which may not with common 
 prudence be avoided. Proceeding westward, the channel con- 
 tracts gradually to the narrowest part, which is between the reefs 
 off the north point of Anticosti and off Mingan Island, where 
 it is 13j miles wide. To pass this safely, at night or in foggy 
 weather, it is necessary that the lead should be kept constantly 
 going as the vessel runs along the southern edge of the bank off 
 the Mingan Islands, and she should not be allowed to go to the 
 northward into less than 30 fathoms of water. 
 
 If the vessel should be met by a westerly wind, down the 
 channel, it will be attended with clear weather, and the white 
 cliffs of Anticosti, which extend from the east point westward to 
 opposite St. Genevieve, will easily be seen. A vessel may stand 
 in without fear to within a mile or two of this part of the coast, 
 which, with the cxcciition of the ret fs oil Fox Bay, is bold and free 
 from danger. Further westward the coast is low and shelving, 
 and reefs extend further oft', lu the board to the northward at 
 night, the .ioundiiiL's on t!u bank will show when to tack. 
 
 Fox Rccfi, 
 
 1,,,,,,^. 
 
1 
 
 DIRECTIONS ACROSS THE GULF. 
 
 25 
 
 safety the 
 sounding 
 I must be 
 e banks of 
 southward 
 ire of not 
 
 lence with 
 pproaching 
 r consulted, 
 ieep water 
 iter banks, 
 to keep on 
 
 h peninsula 
 oles in the 
 s oiF St. Ge- 
 will be at 
 Genevieve ; 
 rater, 5 or 6 
 ting Island, 
 wide, there 
 ,th common 
 annel con- 
 m the reefs 
 iland, where 
 |or in foggy 
 constantly 
 lie bank off 
 go to the 
 
 down the 
 ll the white 
 Ivestwnrd to 
 may stand 
 the coast, 
 Lold iuul free 
 lid shelving', 
 lorthward at 
 luck. 
 
 It has been remarked already (art. 17) that,m westerly wmds, Ptutage North 
 
 ,. , , , . . ofAntiewtu 
 
 there is a weak current down this channel, but it is not constant, 
 
 and its rate seldom exceeds half a knot. Sometimes it is imper- Current down 
 
 ceptible during the flood tide, and runs even the other way on the 
 
 approach of easterly winds. Vessels, however, should be aware 
 
 that on arriving off the north point of Anticosti with a west or S.W. 
 
 wind, this current will almost always be found setting over to the 
 
 N. E., being turned off into that direction by the west end of the ' 
 
 island. Confined within a comparatively narrow channel, it is 
 
 here stronger than elsewhere, running, in the ebb tide, about a 
 
 knot, and in the flood tide, half a knot in the offing.* 
 
 23. Vessels meeting with a westerly wind in the south channel Postage South 
 should stand over towards the Island of Anticosti, and make "■' '''"^'"'•• 
 boards, off and on, of 3 or 4 leagues, to avoid the current out of 
 the St. Lawrence. In beating between Cormorant Point and 
 South Point, off which there is a dangerous reef, keep the light- 
 house on Heath Point open of Cormorant Point. In standing 
 in shore at night to the eastward of the S. W. point, do not bring 
 the revolving light to bear to the westward of N. N. W., or when 
 standing into the westward of it, to the southward of S. S. E. J E. 
 Further particulars respecting the navigation along the shores of 
 Anticosti will be found in the next Chapter. 
 
 In moderate weather a vessel will generally gain ground to Danger of a 
 windward all along the south coast of the island, but care should p^^„'^.' '* 
 be taken to avoid being becalmed, near the shore, between the 
 S. W. and west points, where both the swell and current set in 
 shore, and where the bottom being of clean flat limestone, an 
 anchor will not hold. It is by no means uncommon off this part 
 of the coast, for the fine weather N. N. W. breeze of summer to 
 die away suddenly to a calm, so that a vessel beating here, should 
 stand off shore on the first appearance of a decrease of wind. 
 In the month of August of two following years, I was nearly 
 driven on sliore, under St. Mary Clifls, by a sudden calm. 
 The sea was at first perfectly smooth, but a lieavy swell from the 
 south-westward soon commenced, and continued for 3 or 4 hours 
 before the breeze which caused it made its appearance. 
 
 *Romiirks on the tidi's in-shorc,an(l en the »lan);ers in this channel, will ho 
 fo>in<l ill the following Chajiter iiuilei' thu hi'.ul of Anticosti, and also in 
 Chapter VII., which will ileaciibo the north coast of tliu Gulf lioin Nu- 
 tu!ih(|uiui to Miii^'au Ulund. 
 
 I 
 
 
26 
 
 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Pauage South 
 of Anticosti, 
 
 III ' 
 
 
 Anticotti to 
 Point de Monlt. 
 
 Sotmdini/s be- 
 tween Seven 
 Islands and 
 Aniicosti. 
 
 Course to Point 
 de Monts, 
 
 Making the 
 Light at Point 
 lie Monts, 
 
 IM:: 
 
 From the S. W. point of Anticosti to Cape Henry (Ellis Bay) 
 the bearing is N. 52° i W. true, or N. N. W. J W. by compass, 
 and the distance 39 miles j and 8 miles further, nearly in the 
 same direction, brings us to the wes* point of the island. 
 
 Having made South-west Point, and being 4 or 5 miles 
 oif it, with a fair wind, a course should be steered along the 
 coast, so as to pass 8 or 10 miles to the southward and west- 
 ward of Cape Henry and West Point. N. W. JN. will be a 
 safe course at night or in thick weather, when the lead should be 
 hove every half hour. With this precaution there is no danger of 
 being set too near the coast, since there are soundings in less 
 than 40 fathoms, at a distance varying from 5 to 3 miles off shore 
 all the way from the S. W. point to the west end of the island. 
 
 24. From the west point of Anticosti, the south extremity of 
 Point de Monts bears S. 73° \ W. true, or W. h N. by compass, 
 distant 116 miles. 
 
 An inspection of the chart will show that there are soundings 
 in various depths, between 50 and 100 fathoms, from the western 
 end of Anticosti to nearly opposite the Seven Islands, whilst to 
 the southward there is no bottom at a much greater depth. These 
 may be of use in discovering the situation of a vessel when light 
 winds and fogs prevail for .;evc-ral days in succession, and the 
 land in consequence has not been seen. 
 
 When the vessel has arrived oft' the west point of Anticosti, 
 with a fair wind still continuing, a course should be steered well 
 to the northward, especially with northerly winds, say for about 
 Egg Island. She will thus avoid the strength of the 'current, and 
 the possibility of being set over too near the south shore by its 
 acting on her starboard-bow. When she has run about half way 
 across she should haul more to the southward, so ns to insure 
 clearing Point de Monts. 
 
 If the weather be clear, there will be no difficulty in making 
 the lighthouse on Point de Monts,* and the fixed light at night 
 can be seen, under favourable circumstances, 7 or 8 leagues 
 
 * Point de Monts received its name from the Sieur de Monts, a celebrated 
 French commander, who was there in the be^rinning of the 17th century. 
 Point des Munts is an inaccuracy, and Bald Mountain Point is absurd, as 
 there is no mountain near the Point. 
 
 Cape Chat should be Cape de Chatte, so called from the commander \irh» 
 preceded the Sieur du Monts ; and the Cape Misfio of the old charts should 
 be Cape Michaux. 
 
 I 
 
 :-,S 
 
 has 
 
 fathon 
 
 northv 
 
 calcuh 
 
 to sha 
 
 rem air 
 
 In 1 
 
 is not 
 
 » I think 
 
 coast t( 
 
 Poin 
 
 a mile 
 
 ledge of 
 
 eastwar 
 
 lighthoi 
 
 12 feet 
 
 house, 1 
 
 low wat 
 
 Thel 
 
 lighthou 
 
 attem])t( 
 
 extreme 
 
 the comj 
 
 as to Ic 
 
 be from 
 
 the sautl 
 
DIRECTIONS ACROSS THE GULF. 
 
 27 
 
 [Ellis Bay) 
 y compass, 
 larly in the 
 d. 
 
 )r 5 miles 
 1 along the 
 and west- 
 . will be a 
 id should be 
 10 danger of 
 ings in less 
 les off shore 
 le island, 
 extremity of 
 by compass, 
 
 :e soundings 
 1 the western 
 is, whilst to 
 (Cpth. These 
 when light 
 on, and the 
 
 of Anticosti, 
 steered well 
 
 ay for about 
 
 'current, and 
 shore by its 
 
 lOut half way 
 fts to insure 
 
 y in making 
 ght at night 
 )r 8 leagues 
 
 s, a celebrated 
 17th century, 
 is absurd, as 
 
 itnmaiider wbn 
 1 charts bIiouUI 
 
 from the fore-yard of a ship. But if the weather be thick, as it Making Point 
 commonly is with a fair wind for running up, great caution 
 is necessary. In such circumstances, after having run within 
 about 15 miles of Point de Monts by the reckoning, sail should be 
 reduced, so as to have the vessel under complete command, and 
 she should be rounded to, and a good deep cast with Massey's 
 patent lead obtained, so as to insure that she is not to the north- 
 eastward of the Point, and this should be repeated every half hour, 
 until the light be seen, or it is certain that it is past. 
 
 If the vessel be to the north-eastward of Trinity Bay, soundings 
 will be obtained in less than 60 fathoms, from 4 to 6 miles off 
 shore. Directly off Trinity Bay, there is the same depth 3 miles 
 off shore ; whilst, at the same distance off Point de Monts, there 
 is no bottom at 100 fathoms. If the distance to Point de Monts 
 has been run by the reckoning without finding bottom at 70 
 fathoms, it will be almost certain that the vessel is not to the 
 northward ; but still, as the effects of currents cannot be exactly 
 calculated, and reckonings are liable to error, it will be prudent 
 to shape a course well to the southward of the Point, till there 
 remains no doubt of its having been passed. 
 
 In making the light on Point de Monts, remember that it 
 is not on the extremity of the Point, but has been placed (as ^°v A^^",^'*^ 
 I think, very improperly) IJ miles to the north-eastward, along the 
 coast towards Trinity Bay. 
 
 Point de Monts may be approached as nearly as three-quarters of Rocks of Point 
 a mile with safety, but not nearer in a large ship, since there is a 
 ledge of rocks, with only 9 feet at low water,nearly half a mile south- 
 eastward of the extremity of the Point, and south-westward of the 
 lighthouse. There are also one or two patches of rock', with 
 12 feet water, to the southward and south-eastward of the light- 
 house, but these are not more than a third of a mile off shore at 
 low water. 
 
 The foregoing remarks apply where the object is to make the 
 lighthouse, or light, on Point de Monts, which should always be 
 attempted when there is any chance of success, because it is 
 extremely desirable to obtain a fresh departure before running up 
 the comparatively narrow Estuary. But if the weather be so thick, 
 as to leave no reasonable hope of succeeding, or if the wind 
 be from the southward, a course should be steered more to 
 the southward, so us to jmss well clear of the Point. 
 
 de Mont*. 
 
 
 4 
 
 vt 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 K. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■N ^ 
 
 ■4 
 
 a 
 
 % 
 
 '^ 
 
 
 N 
 
 \ 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 
 
 ,, J 
 
 i( K ■ 
 
 
 '^■^ 
 
 !>. '^ 
 
 
 \ 
 
 J N 
 
 
 \} 
 
 'h -^ 
 
 
 
 1Ni 
 
 
 K 
 
 'c -:^ 
 
 
 <te Moult, 
 
 II 
 
28 
 
 GULP AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 :!>„'! 
 
 lilSii 
 
 PI 
 
 
 II' 
 
 1:1 
 
 llii !i 
 
 
 !;'i!n 
 
 lii 
 
 Amtieotti to 
 
 Point lUMoiUi. 
 
 Trinity Bay. 
 
 From Point de 
 Mont* to Bic- 
 quette Iiland, 
 
 Entering the 
 Estuary. 
 
 Current turned 
 off-shore by the 
 large rivers 
 and Points. 
 
 VesBels beating up against westerly winds should stand over to 
 the northward, as soon as they can weather Anticosti, unless the 
 barometer, or other indications, render it probable that the 
 wind will veer to the southward. During the flood tides, make 
 short boards off and on the north coast, to take advantage of 
 it, for it runs strongest in-shore. During the ebb, keep further 
 off the land, for that tide also runs strongest near the shore. The 
 tides, in general, are weak along this coast, and a vessel will 
 always make way to windward in moderate weather. 
 
 From the Seven Islands to Point de Monts is, in general, the 
 easiest part of the passage, for the W.N. W. wind, which, in this 
 part, is the most common westerly wind, is off the land, so 
 that a vessel can frequently fetch up to Point de Monts in 
 smooth water, particularly at night, when the wind, in fine 
 weather, generally veers a point or two to the northward. 
 
 She will also have the benefit of the flood tide, whilst the ebb, 
 being turned off by Point de Monts, is scarcely felt. 
 
 If it blow fresh, and the flood nearly done on arriving 
 near Point de Monts, there will be no use attempting to beat 
 round it till the next tide, and then only in fine weather. In 
 this case, Trinity Bay, where with westerly winds a pilot will 
 generally be found, is a good anchorage with moderate depth of 
 water, good ground, and plenty of room to get under weigh. 
 
 25. From the south extremity of Point de Monts, the north 
 side of Bicquette Island bears S. 48°. W. true, or W. S. W. by 
 compass, 19^ miles ; and the south point of the Manicouagon 
 Shoals S. 84° W. by compass, .33 miles; but as this great shoal 
 extends towards English Bay, its S. £. point is only 28 miles 
 distant from Point de Monts. 
 
 We have now arrived at the comparatively narrow Estuary, 
 where the tides and currents are much stronger, and more various 
 in their direction, than in the wider parts previously treated of: 
 and where there are shoals extending on the north side several 
 miles off the shore ; hence, a good look out, and constant attention 
 to the soundings, become indispensably necessary at night, or 
 during the fogs which are so prevalent and embarrassing in 
 this navigation. 
 
 After taking a departure from Point de Monts, the course to be 
 steered must vary under different circumstances of wind and tide. 
 The downward current is nut only turned oif to the southward by 
 
 ii!i:i:i;: 
 
 -''■'ill 
 
 ;!!; ill 
 
DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY. 
 
 29 
 
 itand over to 
 i, unless the 
 le that the 
 tides, make 
 advantage of 
 keep further 
 shore. The 
 a vessel will 
 
 general, the 
 vhich, in this 
 
 the land, so 
 de Monts in 
 vind, in fine 
 ward, 
 whilst the ebb, 
 
 » on arriving 
 npting to beat 
 f weather. Tn 
 Is a pilot will 
 ierate depth of 
 !r weigh, 
 ^its, the north 
 W.S.W. by 
 Manicouagon 
 [is great shoal 
 jonly 28 miles 
 
 [rrow Estuary, 
 
 . more various 
 
 Isly treated of: 
 
 Ith side several 
 
 Istant attention 
 
 at night, or 
 
 LbarraBsing in 
 
 Ihe course to be 
 Iwind and tide, 
 southward by 
 
 From Pom! de 
 MoiUi In Bic- 
 ' quelle Island, 
 
 with Ea»ler/y 
 windi, 
 
 Point de Monts, but the Manicouagon and Bersimis Points also 
 
 produce the same effect, although in a less degree, during the ebb ] 
 
 tide ; to which must be added the streams out of the large rivers 
 
 Manicoungoii, Outard, and Bersimis. During the flood tide, the with F/oodtide, 
 
 streams out of these rivers cease, the general current is checked 
 
 in the ofBng, whilst in-shore, within a few miles of the north 
 
 coast, a stream of flood will be found. (Art. 15). 
 
 A vessel taking her departure from Point de Monts with a «"'* Ebb tide, 
 whole ebb tide before her, is therefore very differently circum- 
 stanced from one which does the same at the commencement of the 
 flood ; and must reckon upon being set over towards the south 
 coast much faster in the former than in the latter case. 
 
 I will first give directions for a fair wind, and afterwards 
 for beating winds. 
 
 Having made the light on Point de Monts, and being 3 or 4 
 miles off it to the southward, with the usual easterly winds, nearly 
 or right up the Estuary, steer W. by S. by compass, until up 
 nearly as high as the Manicouagon Shoals, then keep half a point 
 more to the southward, W. S.W. JW. These are safe courses with 
 either ebb or flood, and if the vessel has left Point de Monts at or 
 near the commencement of the ebb tide, will usually bring and with Ebb, 
 her into soundings off Metis, where 30 fathoms, over sandy 
 bottom, will be found 3 miles off shore ; and 50 fathoms 5 miles 
 off shore, and on the edge of the bank. 
 
 If, on the contrary, the vessel has left Point de Monts early on but with Flood, 
 the flood, she will probably be further to the northward. I say, 
 probably, because the strength of the current is too uncertain 
 to allow of my saying that she positively will be so. How- 
 ever, the degree of uncertainty, which the irregular rate of current 
 gives rise to, must be met by the use of the lead. If, therefore, 
 the weather be thick, and the land not be seen, round to in time, 
 particularly if you have had the ebb tide against you, and get a 
 cast of the lead, to make sure that you have not been set too near 
 the south coast. If no bottom be found at 60 fathoms, the W. S.W. 
 ^W. course may be continued, until you are up as hirh as Metis 
 by the reckoning, then let soundings again be tried for, and if still 
 without finding bottom, haul in gradually to the southward, under 
 eusy sail, and with the deep sea lead going, so as to endeavour to 
 strike soundings on the bank off Father Point, which may be 
 accomplished safely, since the bank in that part e.\tends several 
 
 
 ■1 
 
 
 i 
 

 ' ' I 
 
 30 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Ijiiiiiil'; 
 
 !!;i:il! ill! 
 
 'I I 
 
 'ill 1' . 
 
 Il!":ili 
 
 From Point de miles oflF shorc, 
 
 MonU to Bic' 
 
 quette Itland, 
 
 71) fMit Bic- 
 quetle hland 
 at night. 
 
 '<■ i-i. 
 
 When Father Point bears south, by compass, 
 distant 5 miles, the depth is 30 fathoms, over a bottom of soft 
 clay: and with Barnaby Island on the same bearing, distant 
 *J miles, the same soundings will be found. 
 
 If the object be to pass the islands of Bic and Bicquette in the 
 night, or foggy weather, run along the northern edge of the bank 
 of soundings, with the lead going, taking particular care not to go 
 to the southward into less than 30 fathoms. When you judge 
 that you are approaching near to Bicquette, having passed 
 Barnaby Island, haul out a little to the northward until you 
 are out of soundings, and then steer W. S. W. ^ W., still 
 heaving the lead, and having the vessel under moderate sail for 
 the purpose of getting bottom, till you are certain that you are 
 well above 4;he north-west reef oflf Bicquette. If you strike sound- 
 ings at all, whilst running past this dangerous island, on which 
 many vessels have been wrecked, you must haul oif immediately 
 to the northward out of soundings, and then steer as before. 
 
 When you are undoubtedly past Bicquette and its reefs, haul 
 in to the southward by degrees, till you get hold of the edge of 
 the bank again, and keep it up to Green Island. 
 
 Bicquette and its dangerous north-west reef lie very near the 
 northern edge of the Bank of Soundings, and wtR difficult to 
 pass safely, without a chart containing correct soundings; but 
 now that that want is supplied, it may be safely accomplished 
 with the assistance of Massey's patent sounding machine, by any 
 seaman of common prudence and intelligence. Two miles north 
 of Bicquette there arc 30 fathoms : and only 1^ miles north of the 
 N. W. reef there is the same depth, with sandy bottom. Further 
 off no bottom will be found at 50 or 60 fathoms. Both the island 
 and reef are very bold to the nortliward, having 12 fathoms close 
 to them. 
 
 I do not recommend vessels, without a pilot, to atttmpt running 
 inside of the Island of Bic in foggy weather, unless very well 
 acquainted. If, however, it be necessary to do so, for the purpose 
 of anchoring, sec directions for that island. 
 DevialioHoftht It nuiBt be remembered, that the courses wiiich 1 have 
 bt coHiidtretl, reconuneudcd are independent of the (Icvialion, or local nt- 
 trnction ; and uIho, that its cd'ect, although vai ying in amomit in 
 diil'crcnt vosscIh, is alwavs to make it unueur that tlicy arc sleeriiiu 
 
 nicquelte 
 Rfrfi. 
 
 liic hland 
 inner pauage. 
 
 aiK 
 
 le»8 to the southward tliim they arc in reality, if the compnus lie, u? 
 
DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY. 
 
 31 
 
 y compass, 
 ttom of soft 
 Ing, distant 
 
 juette in the 
 of the bank 
 ire not to go 
 n you judge 
 ving passed 
 rd until you 
 r. j^W., Btill 
 crate sail for 
 that you are 
 strike sound- 
 nd, on which 
 F immediately 
 i before, 
 its reefs, haul 
 )f the edge of 
 
 s very near the 
 m difficult to 
 )undings; but 
 
 accomplished 
 ichine, by any 
 wo miles north 
 es north of the 
 torn. Further 
 Joth the island 
 
 futhoms close 
 
 ittmpt nmning 
 ilcss very well 
 lor the purpose 
 
 Ivliich 1 have 
 or local nt- 
 in nnio\int in 
 
 kry arc Blccrin^ 
 coinprts* l>o» US' 
 
 usual in the after paf t of the ship, and if there be no large masses Fmm Point de 
 of iron, as an iron tiller for instance, still further aft : for, in j,,,/,^ hlaml. 
 this latter case, the attraction of all the rest of the iron in 
 the vessel may be neutralized or overcome by that of the iron 
 abaft and close to the compass. I believe, however, that it very 
 seldom is so, since the iron tiller and rudder chains in the Gulnare 
 produced no such effect. To render the effect of deviation ap- 
 parent, I will suppose it to amount to a point of the compass, 
 no uncommon occurrence on a 6 or 8 point course, and the ship 
 to be steering W.S.W. j^W, by the compass in her binnacle. 
 She will then in reality be making a S. W. by W. J W. course, 
 which would soon put her on shore on the south coast, an event 
 that would be accelerated by the current, which, instead of 
 stemming, she would have on her starboard bow checking her 
 in-shore. 
 
 A case exactly similar to the one I have supposed occurred Fata/conne- 
 on the night of the 8th September, 1831, when the s\n\) Jane, „fg/fci,„g the 
 of Belfast, having several large chain cables, and other extra ''"'•"''<"•• 
 iron on board, by which the deviation must have been greatly 
 increased, ran stem on to Bicquette, with a fair wind, but thick 
 fog. She was steering the regiilar course up the middle of the 
 Estuary ; but her master was quite unaware of the effect of the 
 fj;reat mass of iron in her hold upon her compasses, and equally 
 so, that previous to the accident which caused the total loss 
 of his vessel, he had been running for many miles in less than 
 20 fathoms water, the Bank of Soundings not being laid down 
 in his chart. 
 
 These remarks, and others which I have made respecting 
 tlie deviation, will, I trust, show how important a knowledge of it 
 is to the safety of a vessel, and will, moreover, ])oint it out as the 
 duty of every commander, to endeavour to ascertain its amount 
 during the voyage, and before he arrives in a difficult navigation 
 like the St. Lawrence, where the fogs may frequently oblige him 
 Green Island without having been able to obtain 
 
 PUol: 
 
 r 
 
32 
 
 KIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Fal/ier Point. 
 
 
 Frnm Pnint ile 
 Monti tip the 
 rivet; with 
 
 Pilots. with the lead going, and endeavour to make the houses on Father 
 
 Point, although the weather be thick ; running along the land 
 
 from the eastward for tluit purpose, and going no nearer than 10 
 
 , or 1 1 fathoms, at low water. Many pilots live there, and there is 
 
 almost always one to be obtained. 
 
 Even in a foggy night yon may form a tolerably correct opinion 
 whether you are up to Father Point, or not ; for an inspection of 
 the chart will show, that the soundings shoal more gradually 
 in to the southward there than they do further to the eastward. 
 If you heave to, in 10 or 11 fathoms, low water, with the ship's 
 head off shore, a gun or two will be almost sure to bring off a pilot, 
 unless the weather be very bad, for the pilots arc fearless and 
 excellent boatmen. 
 
 26. I have hitherto been speaking of the case when vessels 
 are running up with easterly winds and thick weather ; but a 
 
 SuuMtr/y k'iik/, gggond case is when the wind is from the southward, then the 
 direct course, W.by S. J S., may be steered, if the vessel be, as 
 before, close off Point de Monts, or W. by S. if she be nearer the 
 south coast : allowing still for the set of the current to the south- 
 ward, according to the tide, and sounding in time if the land be 
 not in sight. Whenever the weather is foggy, and the land cannot 
 be seen, the object should always be to strike the Bank of Sound- 
 ings along the south coast about Metis, or Father Point at farthest, 
 and then follow it as a guide to the westward. 
 
 A third case, of frequent occurrence in the autumn, is 
 when there is a fresh northerly wind. The weather is then 
 invariably clear, and, as the land can be seen, there is no danger 
 of getting on shore with a good look out ; but the strength of the 
 current to the southward is increased by this wind, and therefore 
 the vessel must be kept well to the northward, to prevent l)cing set 
 over to the Ice-shore, and being, in consequence, obliged to tack 
 (upon the wind veering a point or two to the westward) and stand 
 all the way back again. 
 
 Supposing the shi]) to be in the same position as before, 3 or 4 
 miles to the southward of Point dc Montv, you may fearlessly 
 steer wcxt for the first 20 miles, or as long as you can see the 
 light. Take the bearing of the light every half hwr, and lay it 
 down on the chart, in order that you may perceive ihe etfect of 
 the current; and if you thus find that it soft you very fast to the 
 southward, aa you probably will, particularly during the ebb tide, 
 
 wit/t Northrrljf 
 wind. 
 
 \ 
 
DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY. 
 
 33 
 
 D 
 
 (n Father 
 
 the land 
 
 rthaii 10 
 
 id there is 
 
 :t opinion 
 pection of 
 
 gradually 
 
 eastward, 
 the ship's 
 ; off a pilot, 
 arless and 
 
 len vessels 
 ler; but a 
 J, then the 
 issel be, as 
 i nearer the 
 ) the Bouth- 
 Ithe land be 
 land cannot 
 of Sound- 
 at farthest, 
 
 lutumn, is 
 |er is then 
 no danger 
 Ingth of the 
 Id therefore 
 U 1)cing set 
 |fd to tack 
 and stand 
 
 fore, 3 or 4 
 fearlessly 
 Inn see the 
 and lay it 
 Lc ctfcct of 
 I fast to the 
 : ebb tide, 
 
 haul up still higher, but take care not to bring the light to bear 
 to the eastward of E. by N., lest you get too near the Manicou- 
 agon Shoals. When you reckon yourself up to the Manicouagon 
 Shoals luff up in the wind, and get a deep cast of the lead, 
 for although those Shoals are very steep on their east side, and also 
 to the western of Manicouagon Point, yet there are soundings off 
 their south point. V^hen the Manicouagon Point bears nortii by 
 compass, you will have from 50 to 60 fathoms, at the distance of 
 5^ miles off shore, and from 30 to 40 fathoms when you are 
 4 miles off shore, the bottom being of very fine sand. In tlic 
 first case, you will be 3i miles off the south point of the shoals, 
 and in the latter case, only 1^ miles. 
 
 When past these dangerous and extensive shoals, the south 
 point of which extends 2^ miles off a low point of the same name, 
 which can seldom be clearly distinguished at night, in consequence 
 of the higher land behind it ; you may haul well up under the 
 north shore, coming no nearer than 3 miles, and taking care to 
 avoid the shoal off Bersimis Point, which extends nearly 1 j^ miles 
 off a low point, also difficult to be seen at night. 
 
 There is also a rocky shoal, first discovered by us, and named the 
 Gulnare Shoal, which lies nearly 2 miles off Cape Colombier. 
 And, lastly, give a good berth to the low Point Mille-Vachcs, off 
 which the shoals extend 2 miles, as will be seen by the chart. 
 All these shoals are extremely steep, and there is, in consequence, 
 no trusting to the lead in apj)roaching them with a vessel going 
 fast. 
 
 After passing Point Mille-Vaches, the north coast is bold, 
 and without anchorage, all the way to within 3 miles of the 
 Sagucnay River. 
 
 Although I have said that the strength of the current down the 
 Estuary of the St. Lawrence is uncertain, yet it may be useful to 
 give an idea of its rate and effect, as experienced on two occasions. 
 
 First, when running up from close off Point dc Monts, which 
 we left at tlie commencement of ebb tide, with a strong breeze 
 from the northward, we found tliat wc were retarded by a stream 
 of 2 miles per hour, and that the set to the southward, at 
 right angles to our course, was at tlie same time 1 1 miles in 
 1 iiours, the wind being free and the rate of sailing 8 knots. Tliis 
 occurred in the month of October. 
 
 The second refers to an effect of the tidal stream, which is more 
 
 n 
 
 From Point He 
 Monts vft the 
 river with 
 Northerly 
 wind. 
 
 Manicouagon 
 Shoalt. 
 
 Bertimit Shoat, 
 Gutnare Shout, 
 
 Mille-Vachet 
 Shual, 
 
 ln»lnnces of Ihe 
 effrrls of I lie 
 Soulh-rditer/if 
 Current, 
 
 11 
 
 •1 
 
 
^[/Mi 
 
 34 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 
 i i :i I 
 
 Instance of the 
 effects of the 
 Soulh-easler/y 
 Current and 
 Ebb Tide. 
 
 From liicquelte 
 /x'andtd (ireen 
 Is/and Liyht- 
 iiouse. 
 
 Crei'n Is/and 
 Liijhthuuse, 
 
 Tides above the 
 Hiizdde Islets. 
 
 local, and higher up the Estuary, but of which it is most important 
 to the safety of a vessel to be aware. 
 
 We had been becalmed 5 or 6 miles south of Brrsimis Point, 
 when a breeze sprang up from the eastward, at 10 h. 30 m. p. m. 
 Although we steered W.S.W., tmd S.W. by W.-^W., yet at 
 4 A. M. we saw Bicquette bearing south 2 or 3 miles, and were 
 obliged to haul up to clear the N. W. reef. Had tliis occurred 
 in a vessel wliere the lead was neglected, and had the weather 
 chanced to be foggy, she would have run on shore, and been in 
 all probability lost. On this occasion, the ebb tide appears to 
 have set diagonally across the Estuarj', about E. S. E. by com- 
 pass, and at the rate of 2 miles per hour; being evidently thrown 
 off to the southward by Point Mille-Vachcs and its shoal. 
 During the flood tide, however, it must be remembered, that no 
 such stream will be found ; on the contrary, I have reason to 
 believe, that the remark of Mr. Lambly (the experienced har- 
 bour-master of Quebec) will then prove correct, that " the current 
 between Bicquette and Point Mille-Vaches sets to the N. E., instead 
 of E. S. E.," for the eddy flood (art. 14) meets the proper flood 
 flowing up along the Bank of Soundings, and between Bicquette 
 and Bic, and the united streams are turned off to the northward 
 after the (irst quarter flood, as we have ourselves observed. 
 
 27. From the north side of Bicquette Island, the lighthouse on 
 Green Island, which shows a fixed light, bears S. 44° W. true, or 
 S. W. by W. J W. by compass, distant 30j miles ; and the light 
 can be seen, in clear weavher, from a distance of 17 or 18 miles, 
 if the observer be elevated 60 feet above the sea. The lighthouse 
 stands on the north side of tlie island, and when first seen, from 
 a vessel on the south Bank of Soundings, appears like a white 
 sail a short distance from the shore. 
 
 In running up to Green Island, after passing the N. W. reef 
 of Bicquette, a W. S. W. course, by compans, will, in general, 
 take a vessel along the edge of the bank, up as high as the 
 lluzades ; but above those islets both flood and ebb set to the 
 S. E., and render it necessary to steer more to the westward, or 
 even to the northwar J of west with a scant northerly wind. But 
 the lead, and a reference to the foundings in tlic chart, aie the 
 only sure guides. With an cnstcrly wind the fog will seldom be 
 so thick aa to prevent ritiu'r the Uuzadcs, Bascpie, or Ap^ile 
 hluuds from being neon iii llii' diiy-timu. They may be tufily 
 
DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY. 
 
 35 
 
 30 
 
 important 
 
 imis Point, 
 30 m. P. M. 
 W., yet at 
 s, and were 
 lis occurred 
 the -weather 
 and been in 
 ; appears to 
 E. by com- > 
 cntly thrown 
 (1 its shoal, 
 tered, that no 
 ave reason to 
 erienced har- 
 " the current 
 N.E., instead 
 le proper flood 
 een Bicquette 
 the northward 
 lerved. 
 
 hghthouae on 
 |4° W. true, or 
 and the light 
 T or 18 miles, 
 'he lighthouse 
 rst seen, from 
 Is like a white 
 
 L N. "W. reef 
 |u, in general, 
 high as the 
 Ibb set to the 
 1 westward, or 
 ly wind. Bvit 
 Ichart, aic the 
 viU seldom be 
 luc, or Apple 
 [nitty be taf^ly 
 
 approached by the lead, and I recommend the attempt to make Frrn Bicqueiie 
 the two last, especially Apple Island, which is very bold on the i,gi,thouae. 
 north side, in order that the position of the vessel may be exactly 
 ascertained before hauling out into deep water, for the jjurpose of ylpple hland. 
 clearing the dangerous Green Island Reef. In the circumstances 
 which I am supposing, of an easterly wind with fog in the day- 
 time, it is much more safe to attempt to make Apple Island than 
 the lighthouse, since a vessel can ajjproach within less than two 
 cables of the former, but would be ashore before she saw the 
 latter, if the fog were thick, since the reef extends nearly 1^ miles 
 to the north-eastward of it. 
 
 Having succeeded in making Apple Island, the vessel may be 
 sheered out to the edge of the Bank of Soundings j and as the 
 distance is short, it is easy to judge when the vessel is coming 
 near the reef, taking, of course, the tide into account, whether it 
 be Hood or ebb, and kec])ing the lead constantly going. Then, 
 if the lighthouse be not seen, sheer out to the northward into 
 more than 30 fathoms water, and shape a course up towards the 
 Brandy Pots, according to the tide, as will be directed in Part 
 the Second of these Directions. 
 
 If the lighthouse be seen, or the light at night, there is still 
 less difficulty in avoiding the reef, and regulating the course 
 afterwards, provided the chart be consulted, the lead used, and 
 the tide considered. 
 
 But Green Island Reef is extremely dangerous, and is ren- Green hlaml 
 dered doubly bo, by the strong tides which set upon it, and which "'•^" 
 produce breaking ripples, that try the nerves of strangers during 
 a dark night, or foggy weather. Therefore, in a strong easterly 
 gale, dark nigiit, fog, or snow so thick that there is little chance 
 of seeing the liglit, I consider the attempt to run through between Danqerofpam- 
 Red and Green Islands to be attended with great risk, cspeciallv "W ''*''"''«'", 
 iliiring the ebb tide, which, coming from between Hare Island li/nmln, espe- 
 Reef and Red-Islet, sets over towards the Green Island Reef, at /Jj^^ "'* 
 the rate of 5 knots. It requires an experienced pilot to take a 
 ship safely through this dangerous passage umler these circum- 
 stances : I should, therefore, recommend, in the case of a vessel ne/Ur fn re- 
 approaching Bic, in snch weather, towards the close of tiie day, 'h/uini, 
 and without a pilot, rather to heave to, or i«tand on and otf 
 the south bank, than run this risk, alth(m^il there may be sonic 
 danger in so doing from oilier vi'Sb<el(* running up. If the mnml- 
 
 n'J 
 
 
30 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 From Bicquelle 
 toGreen Island, 
 
 Anchorage 
 H^eat ofBie 
 Island. 
 
 Beating to the 
 U'eslwardfrom 
 Point de Monti, 
 
 ings about Bic be well known, or that island, or Bicquette, has 
 been seen, the safest plan would be to run under the lee, and 
 anchor to the westward of them, in from 8 to 10 fathoms low 
 water (according to the directions for Bic and Bicquette), where 
 the holding ground is excellent, and the vessel would ride in 
 perfect safety till daylight. Even as far as 6 or 7 miles to the 
 westward of these islands, in from 12 to 13 fathoms at low^ water, 
 I have rode out a very heavy breeze from the eastward j the sea, 
 although considerable, being nothing in comparison with that 
 which was running, at the same time, in the deep water outside 
 of us and off the bank. 
 
 28. In beating up from Point de Monts to Green Island, 
 against westerly winds, which are almost always accompanied 
 with clear weather, there is little difficulty, with the assistance 
 of the Admiralty charts, other than that which arises from the 
 set of the tides and currents. 
 
 It requires a tolerably good sailing vessel, and a flood tide, to 
 beat past Point de Monts against a wind right out ; but 
 short boards round the Point, and along the north coast, up to 
 Cape St. Nicholas, will most readily succeed. It is not, however, 
 advisable to keep this shore close on board much further to the 
 westward, lest the wind should fall to a calm, for there is a strong 
 indraught towards the mouth of Manicouagon river, during the 
 flood tide ; and if an easterly wind should chance to spring up, 
 after the vessel had been drifted in near the mouth of English 
 Bay, it might be difficult to beat out, or to weather the eastern 
 side of the Manicouagon Shoals. The light on Point de Monts 
 cannot be seen on any bearing to the southward of east, being 
 intercepted by the high land to the westward of it ; and when it 
 disappears, a vessel ofi* Goodbout River will be only 1 mile from 
 the Bar, or ofl* Cape St. Nicholas little more than 2 miles off 
 shore : so that it is a safe rule, in standing in towards the coast 
 at night, to tack as soon as the light bears E. ^N. 
 
 When the ebb makes, stretch over to the southward into the 
 middle of the Estuary, where that tide is less strong than near 
 either shore ; but do not go further to the southward, and be back 
 again to the north coast at the return of flood. 
 
 The best time to get past Point de Monts, when fine weather 
 and westerly winds prevail, is nt night, or in the firet hours of 
 the morning, fur then vessels are often assisted by a northerly 
 
DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY. 
 
 37 
 
 ;.n' 
 
 into the 
 lan near 
 be back 
 
 land wind. It' it has blown freshly from the westward during the Beating to thi 
 preceding day, a heavy head sea may be expected oflf the pitch p^^f j^ Montt. 
 of the Point : the flood from along the land in the direction of 
 the Seven Islands meeting the downward current off the Point 
 assists in causing this. 
 
 If, after passing Point de Monts in the morning, wrlh a 
 northerly land wind, there are signs of its dying away, or vc?ring 
 to the westward as the day advances, continue the board to the 
 southward and westward, instead of tacking to keep the north 
 land on board, as directed when the wind is settled right down ; 
 for the land wind of the night will be probably succeeded by the 
 fine weather day wind, which usually becomes a steady breeze 
 about 9 A. M., after commencing at W. S. W., and thus affords 
 an advantageous board towards the north coast. 
 
 In the fine weather of the summer the wind will probably veer 
 by degrees during the day back to west and W. N. W., thus 
 offering another good board to the south-westward. Pilots and 
 others, who are experienced in reading the indications of the 
 winds and weather, frequently gain more ground to the westward 
 by calculating upon these probable changes of the wind, than 
 by keeping on the north shore out of the current. 
 
 With the exception of the low Points Manicouagon, Bersimis, 
 and Mille-Vaches, of which I have already warned the seaman 
 (art. 26), the land can in general be plainly seen at night during 
 the continuance of westerly winds ; and where its features are 
 sufficiently remarkable, there will be little difficulty in making 
 it out, from its representation in the Admiralty charts. Mount 
 Camille, especially, being an isolated mountain, 203G feet above Mumii Caimlle, 
 high water mark, can easily be distinguished ; as well as the 
 summit of the high land of Bic, 1234 feet high. Their bearings iii,jh Lumlof 
 will often be of great service to vessels in clear nights, and will *""■ 
 show when they arc high enough up to fetch Father Point ; 
 where a pilot should be sought for, if one has not been already PiMs at Father 
 obtained. 
 
 On arriving ori Father Point, or anywhere between it and Bic, /tnchnrnije uff 
 if the flood be dorc, and the wind be light, it will be better to 
 anchor on the Bank )f Soundings, weighing again, if there be a 
 breeze, in sufficient time to stand over and meet the first of the 
 flood on the north shore. By this mode of proceeding, vchbcIh 
 will gain much more ground to the westward than by reniuining 
 
 \ 
 
38 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 liertlitig to the 
 IVntward 
 alwi' Point tie 
 Monts, 
 
 between 
 Mille-Fachei 
 and Sagiienai/ 
 liiver, 
 
 nrar lied- 
 Llet Reef. 
 
 lieacimfor 
 thU Reef 
 
 Riftples tienr 
 Red-hlil. 
 
 on the south shore, for although there be a weak stream of flood 
 upon the Bank of Soundings, from Father Point to the Island of 
 Bic, yet there is little above that island, and none after the first 
 quarter flood, excepting so close in shore as to be useless to large 
 vessels. 
 
 From the Bay of Mille-Vaches to within 3 miles of the entrance 
 of the Sf^enay River, with the exception of a shoal extending 
 a short distance off shore from the bay next westward of Cape 
 Bondesir, as will be seen in the chart, the coast is moderately 
 high and very bold, the flood strong, and the ebb comparatively 
 weak. Vessels should, therefore, make short boards along this 
 shore until up to Bergeron coves, and then stretch over to the 
 anchorage under Green Island Reef, to wait for the next flood ; 
 for it will require a whole tide, even with a good working breeze, 
 and a fair sailing merchant vessel, to beat through between Green 
 Island and Red Islet, and reach good anchorage above, before 
 the ebb makes. 
 
 In standing across from the north shore, beware of the Red- 
 Islet Reef, which extends 2\ miles to the eastward, from the low 
 shingle islet of the same name. There is a beacon above and 
 behind the lighthouse on Green Island, which has been erected 
 at the recommendation of Mr. Lambly, the harbour-master, to 
 lead vessels clear of this danger, and it answers the purpose ex- 
 tremely well. 1 1 is white, like the lighthouse, but much smaller ; 
 and when they are m one bearing, S. S. E. iE., by compass, the 
 beacon appears in the middle of a lane cut through woods behind 
 it. A vessel standing over with this leading mark on, will pass 
 over the tail of tlie Red-Islet Reef, in from 5 to 8 fathoms, accord- 
 ing to the time of tide. This beacon will be readily distinguished 
 in the day-time, but if a stranger should have any doubt of it, let 
 him be sure not to bring the Green Island lighthouse, or light at 
 night, to bear ",t all to the eastward of S. S. E., and he will be 
 in no danger. Crossing, below the reef, with the light upon that 
 bearing, there will be found from to 12 fathoms, according to 
 the time of tide, at a mile distance from the reef. 
 
 Violent breaking and whirling ripplings of the tide, which can 
 be heard at a i^rcat distance in a still night, will be met with in 
 crossing, and are alarming enouu;h to strangers, but there is no 
 danger witii the lead going, and an anciior cloar to let go in the 
 event of itB suddenly falling cahn near the reef. 
 
DIRECTIONS UP THE ESTUARY. 
 
 39 
 
 The Red-Islet Reef is, however, very dangerous, and the first Beating to the 
 
 . . . Heatward 
 
 of the flood setff strongly over it, in a direction from Bergeron above Point de 
 
 coves towards Green Island. T' . ebb out of the Saguenay also •*'«•'*• 
 
 sets upon it, so that a stranger should not make too free with it. jtfa-Met Reef. 
 
 If a vessel cannot fetch the anchorage under Green Island Reef, 
 
 she may anchor anywhere, in fine weather, along the south bank 
 
 between Bic and Green Island, and will have good ground m Anchorage be- 
 
 ,_., , ,, - ^ ^ t • ^ iween Bic and 
 
 12 fathoms, at low water, and plenty ot room to get under weigh. Qfg,,„ hiandn. 
 
 In coming up with a N. W. wind, the north shore should be Passages N. 
 kept close on board until up to Bergeron, and if it be flood tide, /"/^,^ '"•' 
 the vessel may pass either northward or southward of Red-Islet, 
 as may be preferred ; but the former passage should not be 
 attempted with this wind during the ebb, or yet the other, unless 
 by those who are well acquainted with the set of the tides. 
 
 Although the passage to the northward of Red-Islet is the Northern pns- 
 quickest, there being a much stronger stream of flood in that ^tempilng!^ 
 channel, yet I do not by any means recommend it : on the con- 
 trary, I think it should never be attempted unless the breeze 
 appears certain to continue, for if it fell calm, the vessel would 
 run great risk of being drawn in by the stream of flood among 
 the dangerous shoals off the mouth of the Saguenay, or being set 
 down upon Red -Islet Reef when the rapid ebb made out of that 
 river, which is so strong, and the water so deep, that no anchor 
 would hold. 
 
 To pass to the southward of Red-Islet with the same wind. Southern pas- 
 haul round the east end of the reef, and ae close to the southward *"^*'' 
 of it as is prudent, coming no nearer tluin 20 fathoms until past 
 the islet. To those who are well acquainted both with the 
 soundings and set of the tides, it may be desirable to keep closer 
 in attempting the passage with an ebb tide, but I cannot recom- 
 mend it to strangers. 
 
 More full directions fur this part of the river will be given at 
 the commencement of Part the Second, which will begin at 
 Green Island. 
 
 29. For the return voyage, down the Estuary and Gulf, little Retnnmg 
 or no instruction seems necessary, as long as the wind remains 't'"'" ''" 
 fair and the weather clear, beyond what may be gathered from 
 the Admiralty charts and the ])receding remarks. But wlicre 
 vessels are met by easterly winds and tliick weather anywhere 
 above I'oint do Monts, great caution, attention to the soundings 
 
 ,4 
 !1 
 
40 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 4^ 
 
 ^Ui'L- 
 
 Rttumintf 
 down the 
 Estuary. 
 
 Wait for fair 
 wind at the 
 Brandy Puts, 
 
 or anchor under 
 Jiic hland. 
 
 No other an- 
 chorage except 
 Gaspc and the 
 Seven Islands, 
 
 Beating down 
 along South 
 shore. 
 
 ^ .7 / 
 
 V 
 
 Smooth water 
 on South shore 
 Bank of Sound- 
 ings. 
 
 Effect of either 
 Tide in stand- 
 ing off. 
 
 and set of the tides and currents, becomes necessary to ensure 
 safety, particularly during the long nights and-)g|||j| weather in 
 the fall of the year. 
 
 Vessels beating down the St. Lawrence usually stop at the 
 Brandy Pots for a fair wind. But supposing, after they have passed 
 Green Island, that the fair wind fails, and they ar ^ met with an 
 easterly wind before they have arrived near the island of Bic, 
 I should recommend them, in that case, to run up again to the 
 Brandy Pots, especially if late, or very early in the navigable 
 season ; for all that they will gain by beating about in thick 
 weather, probably for several days and nights in succession, will 
 not be worth the risk. But if they have reached far enough down 
 at the commencement of the adverse wind, the island of Bic affords 
 good shelter and anchorage, which should be sought in time, 
 before the fog commences. (See directions for Bic.) 
 
 There is no other anchorage which I can recommend lower 
 down nearer than the Seven Islands, and after that Gaspe. 
 There are other places, which will be mentioned hereafter, in 
 some of which vessels ride for taking in timber, but there they 
 are moored close in shore, with lower yards and topmasts struck, 
 by which means they ride out very bad weather, with very indif- 
 ferent shelter ; but such places are nol fit for occasional anchor- 
 ages, or for a heavy laden ship to run for on an emergency. 
 
 In a vessel beating down, the south bank should be the guide 
 in thick weather, or at night. She should tack from it, after 
 striking soundings on its edge, and should not stand to the north- 
 ward more than half-channel over in any part : thus keeping in 
 the strength of the downward current, and avoiding the possibility 
 of accident from the shoals of the north coast, which being very 
 steep, and affording little or no warning by the lead, have proved 
 fatal to many vessels under these circumstances. 
 
 It will be almost always seen when the vessel comes upon 
 the south Bank of Soundings, by there being so much less sea 
 there than in the deep water, and strength of the weatlier 
 current, outside : a strong ripple will be observed at the edge of 
 the bank during the flood tide. 
 
 In the board from near Bicquettc, during the flood tide, the 
 vessel will go to the northward rather faster than to the 'south- 
 ward back again, whilst in the ebb, the contrary will be the case. 
 But above th^ Razadc Islets, she will go much faster to the 
 
DIRECTIONS DOWN THE ESTUARY. 
 
 41 
 
 kes upon 
 
 I less sea 
 
 I weather 
 
 ! edge of 
 
 |ide, the 
 
 ! BOUtlj- 
 
 |he case, 
 to the 
 
 southward than to the northward, in both tides. Lower down Utiummg 
 
 the Estuary, and as far down as Cape St. Anne, she will generally ary. 
 
 go faster to the southward than to the northward during the ebb 
 
 tide : whilst in the flood, an indraught into the river will be felt 
 
 on approaching near the north coast from Bersimis Point, nearly 
 
 down to Cape St. Nicholas. The least reflection upon what 
 
 has been said of the set of the tides and currents (arts. 15 and 16) 
 
 will account for these effects. — . 
 
 In a vessel beating down in a dark itight, or thick weather, Coiutant use of, 
 there is no safety unless the lead be kept constantly going : when dispensable, '"' 
 she is approaching the south coast, in the board to the southward, 
 sail should be sufficiently reduced for soundings to be easily . 
 
 obtained, and everything in readiness to tack, or veer, at the . 
 
 shortest notice. These precautions become the more necessary ^ 
 
 as the vessel descends the Estuary, and the Bank of Soundings i 
 
 becomes narrower. Off Matan there are 30 fathoms, sandy espeeial/y where , 
 bottom, li miles off shore; and 60 fathoms, at Smiles off : Jj^f *"•* "'""' 
 whilst, at the distance of 5 miles from the land, no bottom will 
 be found at 100 fathoms. The south bank becomes narrower 
 still to \t\t eastward of Matan, and ceases, in consequence, to be 
 of use to vessels. Off Cape Chatte there are 30 fathoms of water, 
 little more than half a mile from the shore ; a short distance 
 further off there are no soundings at 10 fathoms ; and between 
 it and Point de Monts, from 150 to 170 fathoms, blue mud 
 bottom. 4 
 
 Below Point de Monts there is plenty of sea-room, and although 
 the lead will there be of little use, yet the south coast is so high 
 and bold that it may generally be seen, if the fog be no thicker 
 than is usual with a regular easterly wind up the St. Lawrence. 
 
 Lower down still, with a beating wind and thick weather. Soundings off 
 soundings may be struck off the west end of Anticosti, or between ■^"'"'<^''« 
 the west and S. W. points of that island, if it be wished to 
 ascertain how far the vessel is over to the northward before 
 night. Eastward of the S. W. point of Anticosti, to Pavilion 
 River, the Bank of. Soundings off tlie south side of the island is 
 very narrow ; but from the latter to the east point, there is plenty 
 of warning by the deep sRa lead, as will be seen by the soundings 
 in the chart. 
 
 I do not recommend the channel to the northward of Anticosti, 
 in the voyage down the St. Lawrence, because there is not only 
 
 .^3 1 
 
 
 
 ) 
 
 ,y 
 
 
 € 
 
43 
 
 GULF OF ST.' LAWRENCE. 
 
 Jtelurmng 
 acrait the 
 Gulf. 
 
 Belie hie 
 
 Strait. 
 
 Icebergs, 
 
 less room, but also less current in favour. Neither do I recom- 
 mend the route by the Strait of Belle Isle, on account of the 
 straggling icebergs, which are in general to be met with there 
 through all the navigable season. Towards the fall of the year, 
 however, vessels occasionally pass through it, in anticipation of 
 the northerly winds which prevail at that season in the Atlantic : 
 they should be well acquainted with the currents, and should 
 know the anchorages on the north side of the Strait. Instructions 
 for making this passage will be given in a future Chapter. 
 
 I have purposely not interrupted the foregoing general direc- 
 tions, by particular descriptions of the coasts, or places, alluded 
 to. The latter, together with directions for the harbours, anchor- 
 ages, and dangers, will be found in the following Chapters. 
 
ISLAND OF ST. PAUL. 
 
 43 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 30, Island of St.Paul.— 31. Bird Rocks.— 32. Bryon Island.— 33. Deadman 
 Islet. — 34. Magdalen Islands, general Description.— 35. Description 
 of the Southern side of the Magdalens, and the Anchoring Places 
 aiid Reefs, with Directions.— 36. Description of the Northern side of 
 the Magdalens, and the Dangert, with Directions. — 37. Tides and 
 Currents around the Magdalens. — 38. The Island of Anticosti, general 
 Description, Provision Posts, and Lighthouses. — 39. Description of the 
 Southern Coast of Anticosti, with Directions.— 40. Description of the 
 Northern Coast of Anticosti, with Directions. — 41. Remarks upon the 
 Currents and Tides around Anticosti. 
 
 ISLAND OF ST. PAUL. 
 
 30. The Island of St. Paul is composed of primaTy rocks, Deseription of 
 principally mica slate ; dipping at an angle of not less than 45° to 
 the southward. Its appearance and shape will be better shown 
 by the views and the chart, than by any written description. It 
 is partially wooded with dwarf and scrubby spruce trees, useless 
 excepting for fuel. The only inhabitants are two men in charge 
 of a dep6t of provisions for the relief of shipwrecked persons, 
 supported by the government of New Brunswick. These men re- 
 side on the north point of Trinity Cove, where there is a dwelling- 
 house and store. They grow a few potatoes, and shoot ducks 
 during the winter, and also in the spring and autumn. A very 
 few foxes are the only wild animals upon the island : there is no 
 feathered game, or anything else to support life. The ocean 
 however compensates for the deficiencies of the land. Codfish 
 and halibut are often plentiful around the island, and mackerel 
 and herrings may be taken at times, in their seasons. 
 
 St. Paul Island is 2tV miles long, by 1 mile broad. Its N.E. 
 point is a small detached islet, although it does not appear as 
 such from the sea. This islet is separated, by a very narrow 
 channel, from a peninsula, between 3 and 400 feet high, which, 
 together with the isthmus, is so precipitous as to be nearly inac- 
 cessible. The remaining greater part of the island, whicli is also 
 very steep and precipitous towards the sea, has two paralle' 
 
 
 .,'1 .•■ 
 
 jf ■ .' ■ 
 
44 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Deieriphon of ranges of hills, that on the Atlantic coast being the highest, and 
 attaining an elevation of about 450 feet. A valley runs through 
 between these hills, having 2 small lakes or ponds, 2 or 300 
 feet above the sea. These supply the principal stream on the 
 island, which is about a fathom wide, of yellowish-brown water, 
 
 fpaier. well tasted and wholesome, and descending into the sea in the 
 
 southern part of Trinity Cove. There are several other, but 
 much smaller, runs of water, one of which is into Atlantic Cove. 
 These two coves are nearly a mile from the S. W. extremity of the 
 island, the first being on the Gulf side, and the other on that which 
 is towards the Atlantic, as its name implies. They afford the 
 only shelter for boats, and the only good landing on the 
 island, which is easier of ascent from them than at any other part. 
 Off the two coves just mentioned, small fishing schooners anchor, 
 with the wind off shore, in 10 or 12 fathoms, sand and gravel 
 bottom, and at the distance of 2 cables' length from the rocks. In 
 very fine weather, large vessels might venture to ride with a stream 
 
 Anchoragt. anchor, in from 25 to 30 fathoms about half a mile off shore, 
 but should be in constant readiness to weigh, at the first sign of a 
 change in the wind or weather. Further off shore the water be- 
 comes extremely deep, as will be seen in the chart, so that there 
 is little or no warning by the lead in approaching this island in 
 foggy weather. On this account, although so bold and high, it 
 is extremely dangerous, and many shipwrecks have taken place 
 upon its shores, attended with a most melancholy sacrifice of 
 human life. In few parts of the world would a lighthouse have 
 prevented a greater loss of property or a greater amount of misery, 
 and it gives us, therefore, infinite satisfaction to announce, that 
 the Commission recently appointed to determine on the most 
 generally useful position for it, has already made their rciiort to 
 Her Majesty's Government. 
 
 The irregularity of the tidal streams and currents add much 
 to the danger arising from the fogs, which prevail in southerly, 
 easterly, and often also with S. W. winds. Dtiring the whole of 
 a fine calm day, at the end of June, we observed the current to set 
 to the S. E., at the rate of 1 knot, past the north (Mint of the isliind. 
 
 Dtirription of 
 tkt Uird RoKht. 
 
 BIRD ROCKS. 
 
 31. Tint Bird Rucks arc of coarse red sandstone, or con- 
 glomerate, in strata dipping very slightly to the S. W., and art 
 
THE BIRD ROCKS. 
 
 45 
 
 constantly diminishing in size from the action of the sea. They 
 present perpendicular clifiPs on every side ; yet it is possible to 
 ascend them, with great difficulty, in one or two places, but 
 there is no landing upon them excepting in the calmest sea. 
 Every ledge and fissure of the cliifr are occupied by gannets, and 
 the summits of both rocks are literally covered with them. The 
 white plumage of these birds gives these rocks the appearance of 
 being capped with snow, and renders them visible, through a 
 night glass in a clear and moonlight night, from the distance of 
 7 or 8 miles. 
 
 The two Rocks bear from each other N. N. W. iW. and 
 S. S. E. j^ E., and are "700 fathoms apart. Sunken rocks leave 
 only a boat passage between them. The south-eastermost is the 
 largest and highest, though scarcely 200 fathoms long, and not 
 more than 140 feet high above the sea. The other is divided into 
 two precipitous mounds joined together by a low ledge. The lesser 
 of these mounds resembles a tower. A reef extends 100 fathoms 
 to the eastward, from the Little, or N. W. Bird Rock, and there is 
 a patch of breakers nearly midway between the two, and rather to 
 the S. W. of a line drawn from one to the other. The Great, or 
 S. E. Bird Pock, is quite bold, excepting in the direction of the 
 other Rock. The Little, or N. W. Bird Rock, bears N. E. by E. 1 E., 
 distant 16i miles from the cast point of the Magdalens, and 
 E. i S., 10} miles from the east end of Bryon Island. 
 
 The soundings off the Bird Rocks to the eastward have been 
 already stated, (art. 20) ; they extend still further off to the north- 
 ward, so as to afford the most ample warning and assistance to 
 vessels at night, or in foggy weather, as will be seen in the chart. 
 Between them and the east point of the Mngdalcns, the depth no- 
 where exceeds 16 or 17 fathoms, over a bottom of reddish sand, 
 and sea-eggs are very frequently brought up by the lead. 
 
 Between the Birds and Bryon Island, there is a ridge of rocky 
 and foul ground, on some piirts of which, it has been said, there 
 is 08 little as 4 fathoms of water, because bottom has been seen 
 in calm weather. Wc, however, could not find less than 7 fathoms, 
 but it inuy nevertheless exist, so that a large ship had better not 
 cross this ri<lgc when there is mucii scu running. The two cliffy 
 pointii, on the imrth side of Bryon Island, in one, mark the 
 northern limits uf this rocky ground. 
 
 DeteriptioH of 
 the Bird Rock$. 
 
 Heef, 
 
 BankofSouml- 
 ingt. 
 
 Foul Grouml 
 btlu'ten Ike 
 thrilii anil 
 HrgoH Itlaml. 
 
 i 
 
46 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Description of 
 Brj/on Island. 
 
 Hater, 
 
 Itee/s. 
 
 BRYON ISLAND. 
 
 32. Bryon Island, which is uninhabited, is rather more than 
 4 miles long, in a W. by N. and E. by S", direction, with the ex- 
 treme breadth of rather more than a mile. Its eastern end bears 
 from the east point of the Magdalens, N. by E. ^E. lOj^miles, 
 but its S. W. point approaches to within 8| miles of the north 
 cape of these islands. 
 
 Bryon Island is formed of alternating and nearly horizontal 
 strata of red sand-stone, red ochreous clay, and shaley grey sand- 
 stone. These rocks are soft and friable, forming perpendicular or 
 overhanging clilfs nearly all round the island, which are broken 
 in holes and caverns, showing how fast they are giving way to 
 action of the waves. 
 
 The soil is similar to that of the Magdalens. A great part of 
 the island is wooded with dwarf spruce trees, and there is a large 
 upland tract covered with good native grass. Water is neither 
 plentiful nor easy to be obtained, but it may be had in small 
 quantities by digging, and there is a spring on the north side of 
 the narrow isthmus which joins the eastern peninsula to the re- 
 mainder of the island. 
 
 I had no opportunity of measuring the height of Bryon Island, 
 but I conceive it nowhere exceeds 200 feet above the sea. The 
 cliffs on the north side are much higher than those on the south, 
 where there arc several small coves in which boats may land 
 easily with the wind off shore. There are three reefs off Bryon 
 Island. One off its east end extends near thrce-ciuarters of a mile to 
 the north-eastward : auothcroffthc west end extends \}f miles to 
 the westward, and the third, off the sandy S. W. point, 1^ miles to 
 the soutiiward. No marks can be given for clearing these reefs, but 
 the bearings of the land, as shown in the cliiirt, will afford suffi- 
 cient guidance to the seaman. The reef off the S. W. point is so 
 much in the way of vessels passing between it and the Magdalens, 
 that it may be useful to add, tliat from the southern ridge of this 
 reef, Bryon Islond subtends an angle of 91°, so that with the 
 island subtending any less angle the reof may l>e passed. The 
 south reef assists ^reatIy in turning off the sea from the roadstead 
 to tlie eastward of it, where vcssils may sufely anclior in () 
 fathoms water iind a Mundy holtuiii, iit the distance of u mile or 
 more from tlie shoic, und wiih all winds froni N.K, round liv 
 
BRYON ISLAND. — DEADMAN ISLET. 
 
 47 
 
 north to W. N. W. Small vesa \a in heavy N. W. gales lie at 
 anchor close under the reef. 
 
 There are regular soundings, from 9 to 11 fathoms, with 
 bandy bottom, between Bryon Island and the Magdalens, with the 
 exception of an extensive patch of foul and rocky ground, lying 
 between S.W.4W. and W.S.W. from the west end of Bryon 
 Island, and having a clear channel on either side of it, as will be 
 seen in the chart. We could find no less than 5 fathoms here, 
 and although the fishermen see bottom upon it in calm weather, 
 I have every reason to think that there is no less water. Never- 
 theless, large ships had better not run over it, when there is a 
 heavy sea running, for a small point of rock, with a few feet less 
 water, might escape the most rigorous examination. 
 
 These rocky places are called fishing-grounds by the inhabit- 
 ants of the Magdalens, because codfish abound upon them. There 
 is one with 1 1 fathoms of water, 2^ miles north of Bryon Island, 
 nnt. ^vhlch extends a considerable distance parallel to the island. 
 T'- sandy bottom, and a greater depth of water within this 
 
 t ■•J- ■ .id vessels may anchor, in fine weather and southerly 
 winds, off the bay on the north side of the island. The soundings 
 extend so far off Bryon Island to leeward in every direction, 
 that there is no possibility of a vessel on a voyage being en- 
 dangered by it, if the lead be used. But great caution is requisite 
 in approaching the reefs, for they are very steep, especially that 
 which extends to the southward. 
 
 Description of 
 Bryon hltmd. 
 
 Adjacent 
 Soundings, 
 
 Foul ground. 
 
 Rocky Jithing- 
 grounds. 
 
 Tlie Reefs are 
 very sleep. 
 
 DEADMAN ISLET. 
 
 3.3. The Deadman bears N. 52°W., 7| miles nearly, from ^*'''''>"'"'"/ 
 , /.!•»»,, , . 11 , . Deadman Islet, 
 
 the west cape of tlic Magdalens ; and is very small, bcnig 
 
 not more than 300 fathoms long, in an E. S. E. direction, and 
 
 lce>B than half that breadth. It is about 170 feet high, with 
 
 steeply sloping sides, meeting at the summit like a prism, so that 
 
 when seen end on, it resembles a pyramid. When seen from a 
 
 distance with its longest sides presented to view, its outline very 
 
 much resembles that of a body laid out for burial, from which 
 
 circimistancc its name is derived. It is composed principally of 
 
 trap rocks, and when seen close to, on a bright svniny day, with 
 
 the white surf dashing against its vario\isly coloured side^*, it is a 
 
 very beautiful object. It is so bold on the west lide, that a vend 
 
 f 
 
 / 
 
!!■: f.. 
 
 48 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 h : 
 
 Deadman Met, pj^y pjjgg within a Couple of cables' length with perfect safety, but 
 
 ^''•^" a reef extends towards Amherst Island one-third of a mile. 
 
 RockyJUhing- About a mile to the northward of it there is a rocky fishing- 
 
 grout $. ground with 8 fathoms least water; and 6 miles S. S.W.J W. 
 
 of it, there is another with 11 fathoms. There is no danger 
 
 nearer than the " White Horses," to be mentioned hereafter, and 
 
 vessels may safely pass between it and Amherst Island. It is, 
 
 however, much in the way of vessels passing round the west end 
 
 of the Magdalens, and they should beware of it at night, or in 
 
 foggy weather, for the lead will give little warning, since there is 
 
 nearly as much water within half a mile of it, as at the distance 
 
 of several miles. 
 
 THE MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 
 
 Deivriptimof 34. Tre Magdalens are a chain of islands, assuming an 
 
 *l»lm^'^'* >"'CSu^*'' curved direction, the greatest length of which, from the 
 S W. cape of Amherst Island to the east point, is 35 miles ; 
 but if the smaller isles be included, as they evidently form a part 
 of the Magdalen group, the whole length of the range, from the 
 Deadman to the Great Bird Rock, will be 56 miles, in an 
 E. N. E. direction. 
 
 The central parts of these islands rise into hills, with rounded 
 and frequently dome-shaped summits, attaining an elevation 
 above the sea varying from 200 to 580 feet, and which are in 
 general of igneous, or trap rocks. Around, and on the flanks of 
 these hills, are stratified deposits of sandstones and ochrcous clays, 
 with gypsum in the hollows and basins, and also occasionally in 
 veins. No rock-salt has been found upon the islands, but the 
 water of many springs and small streams is sufficiently saline to 
 be nearly unfit for use. The gypsum forms an article of com- 
 merce, and some valuable ochreous pigments are also found upon 
 the islands, but the principal dependence of the inhabitants is 
 
 Fit/ierie: upon the cod-fishery. The herring and seal fisheries are also 
 prosecuted to a limited extent. 
 
 Hood. The islands are partially wooded, but the trees are small, and 
 
 mostly spruce, juniper, birch, and Canadian poplar. The un- 
 
 Caii/t. wooded parts produce good grass, and afford pasturage for cattle 
 
 and sheep ; but they arc far less abundant than the pigs, which 
 are fed upon the oHals of the fisli, and make very bad meat in 
 cunsequeuce. The general character of the soil is sterile, for 
 
MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 
 
 4d 
 
 
 ifety,but 
 e. 
 
 r fiahing- 
 W.iW. 
 ) danger 
 ifter, and 
 d. It is, 
 west end 
 5ht, or in 
 e there is 
 i distance 
 
 uming an 
 I, from the 
 35 miles ; 
 orm a part 
 5, from the 
 les, in an 
 
 rounded 
 elevation 
 ich are in 
 flanks of 
 jous clays, 
 lionally in 
 I, but the 
 saline to 
 of com- 
 lund upon 
 .bitants is 
 are also 
 
 imall, and 
 
 The un- 
 
 Ifor cattle 
 
 Igs, which 
 
 meat in 
 
 terile, for 
 
 although good vegetable mould may occasionally be met with, yet, fl'"j^'^'*^, °^ 
 on examination, it usually proves to be superficial, being only a 
 few inches in depth, and having beneath it either the rock or 
 siliceous and ferruginous sands. The climate is severe; not 
 quite so cold as at Quebec in winter, but less warm in summer. 
 Rains, and especially fogs, are extremely frequent, and without 
 this humid atmosphere the islands would be deprived of the little 
 fertility which they possess ; the dry and meagre soil requiring 
 copious and continued supplies of moisture. 
 
 There are at present upon the islands about 1100 inhabitants, Population. 
 the majority of whom are of French extraction, and who all in- 
 habit Amherst, Grindstone, and Alright Islands', with the excep- 
 tion of about ]l or 12 families divided between Entry Island, 
 Grosse Isle, and East Island, near the N. E. extremity of the 
 chain. Ships may obtain limited supplies of fresh provisions, SuppHet. 
 especially at Entry Island, and water most readily from Amherst IVater. 
 Harbour, either from a spring which issues from under tlie 
 Demoiselle Hill, or from a small stream which falls into Ance k 
 la Cabane, near the S. W. cape of the island. Wood for fuel is Fuel. 
 becoming scarce near the settlements. Large spars are not to be 
 had, unless when they chance to be saved from wrecks, but small 
 ones, of spruce and juniper, may be obtained. The latter, 
 of which the inhabitants build their fishing-boats and shallops 
 or smaller schooners, somewhat resembles larch-wood ; it is said 
 to be extremely strong and durable. 
 
 When first made from sea, the Magdalens appear like several ■^ippenrance. 
 hilly islands, with channels between, but, on a nearer approach, 
 they are seen to be all connected together, with the excepti«)n 
 of Entry Island, by a double line of sand-bars and beaches, 
 inclosing extensive lagoons, having very narrow entrances, 
 by which the tide finds access and egress. These sand-bars 
 are in some parts only a few feet above the sea, whilst in 
 others they rise into hills of blown sand of considerable elevation. 
 They appear to lie increasing, since there arc generally ridges of Snnd-riilges, 
 sand with from 9 to 12 feet water parallel to, and from 50 to 100 
 fathoms outside the beach. There arc 3 ond 4 fathoms of water 
 between these ridges and the shore, a circnmstance which has 
 often proved fatal to the crews of vessels wrecked upon these 
 shores. These hilly islands thus disposed in a curvilinear shape, 
 and connected together by sand-bnrs, inclosing lagoons, reminds 
 
dO 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 !«■ 
 
 De$cripiton of one forcibly of those islands in tropical seas which are connected 
 
 the Magdalen 
 
 lilandi. together by coral reefs. 
 
 In a bright sunny day of summer, the cliffs of various colours 
 in which different shades of red predominate, and the yellow of 
 the sand-bars contrasted with the green pastures of the hill sides, 
 the darker green of the spruce trees, and the blue of sea and 
 sky, produce an effect extremely beautiful, and one which distin- 
 guishes these islands from anything else in the Gulf of St. Law- 
 rence. In stormy weather, the appearance is equally character- 
 istic. Isolated hills and craggy cliffs arc then dimly seen through 
 the rain and mist which accompany an easterly gale, and appear 
 joined by long ranges of breakers, which almost hide the sand- 
 bars. At such times it is dangerous to attempt making the 
 islands, for in approaching the lower parts, the breakers would 
 probably be the first thing seen from a vessel. 
 
 Three hnrlmurs The Magdalcns possess no harbour for ships, but three for small 
 jorsma '^"'/ • yesscls, named Amherst, House, and Grand Entry Harbours, 
 which will be noticed in the following concise description of the 
 shores of the i^ hinds and the dangers off them. 
 . F.uitt Point. 35. The East Point of the Magdalens is of low sand, in- 
 
 closing several shallow ponds, and having several sand-hills, some 
 of which are near its extremity, while others, of greater elevation 
 and further to the westward, extend in a chain nearly to the N. E. 
 cape. These last-mentioned sand-hills are inland, and on the 
 margin of the north-eastern part of the great lagoon. The 
 N. E. cape is a hill on East Island, which stands at the head 
 of Grand Entry Harbour. It is a very remarkable cape, and its 
 isolated cliffs, being 230 feet high, can be seen over all the sand- 
 hills and sand-bars, so that when these last are below the horizon, 
 the N. E. cape appears to be the eastern extremity of the chain. 
 
 Ijong-Spit, Long-Spit is a ridge of sand, with from 2 to 3 fathoms water, 
 
 which extends off the East Point S.E.JS. rather more than H 
 miles, and for H miles further in the same direction, the depth 
 is from 4 to 6 fathoms. To clear this spit observe the following 
 remarks and directions. The southern part of CofBn Island is a 
 peninsula, forming the southern shore of the Oyster Pond, and 
 connected to the remainder of the island by a low neck or isthmus 
 at the west end of the pond. Now, the mark for the 3 fathoms 
 extremity nf the spit is the north side of this peninsula on with 
 
 Vraringmrk, the Old Harry Head. And the south side of the northern 
 
MAGDALEN ISLANDS, 
 
 51 
 
 J "3 
 
 and, in- 
 Is, some 
 ;levi\t\on 
 le N. E. 
 on the 
 In. The 
 the head 
 and its 
 le sand- 
 [horizon, 
 Ichain. 
 ,s water, 
 than U 
 le depth 
 Dllowing 
 and is a 
 nd, and 
 iethnms 
 fathoms 
 Ion with 
 jorthcrn 
 
 part of Coffin Island, (where the narrow neck joins it, as 
 above mentioned,) on with the Old Harry Head will lead over the 
 spit in 4 fathoms. A person with our charts before him will 
 have little difficulty in making out these leading marks, but may, 
 if lie pleases, pass round the spit, by the lead, in 5 or 6 fathoms, 
 taking care not to bring the Old Harry to bear to the south- 
 ward of west. To know when a vessel from the eastward has 
 passed it, observe, thr^t the ^' of the summit of the rm-ib cape 
 on with the east sid . tr«o . ^. cape clears it nearl) ' .. uiile 
 to the S, W., which mark will aiso be useful to a vessel approach- 
 ing it from the westward. The tides set rapidly over this spit, Tiiles .set acrosx 
 and, together with the shoal water, cause a heavy breaking sea. * *'"'' 
 It is extremely dangerous, and vessels should take care not to 
 get becalmed near it without an anchor clear. 
 
 Doyle Rekk lies S. J E. distant 6^ miles from the East Doy/e litef. 
 Point, and consists of pointed rocks. It is very small, being 
 only 300 fathoms long, and 50 fathoms wide from 6 fathoms to 
 6 fathoms. The least water is 3 fathoms on one spot nearly in 
 the centre, and there are 12 and 13 fathoms all round it. The 
 only mark for this reef is the North Cai)e of the Magdalcns 
 open two-thirds of its breadth to the N. E. of the North-East 
 Cape. On the reef, the angle between these marks and tlic 
 western point of Coffin Island is 24° 2T. 
 
 Lying comi)letely in the way of vessels, and very seldom showing, 
 the sea breaking upon it only in heavy gules, Doyle Reef may 
 justly be considered as one of the worst dangers off the Mng- 
 dalens. It has been examined and laid down by us for the first 
 time, and was previously known only to a very few persons on 
 the Magdalens. These persons reported that they had at dif- 
 ferent times seen vessels disappear, which they concluded had 
 struck upon it. 
 
 Proceeding to the south-westward from the East Point, the first f>l'i H'ury 
 headland is the Old Harry, the S. E. point of Coffin Island, bear- 
 ing from the east point W. S.W., by compass, 4h mil, s. Between 
 them is a sandy bay, in which vessels may anchor, with good 
 shelter, hi all winds from west round by north to N. E. ; but it is 
 not a place to be recommended, because a vessel would be there 
 very much embayed by the shoals on either side, and miglit find 
 it difficult to get out on the occurrence of a sudden shift of wind 
 cither at night, or attended with fog. 
 
 1. 2 
 
 
32 
 
 fillLF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 C'lfi/mbirte 
 Slioa/s. 
 
 (Irantl Erth-y 
 Hurl/our. 
 
 The Old Harry Head has red sandstone cliffs of a moderate 
 height, with a reef off it to the south*ea8tward one-third of a mile. 
 
 From the Old Harry 2 J miles S. S. W. JW., and S.E. by S., 
 2 miles from the east end of the cliffs, westward of the entrance 
 of the Oyster Pond, lies the outermost of the Columbine Shoals, 
 a patch of rocks, with 3 fathoms at low water. Within this, 
 and towards Coffin Island, are numerous small shoal patches 
 and pointed rocks, on some of which there are not more than 3 
 feet at low water, as will be seen in the chart. These shoals are 
 extremely dangerous, and much in the way of vessels hauling 
 round the east point of the Magdalens with northerly winds. 
 To clear the east side of them, the wh(4e of the high N. E. Cape 
 must be kept well open to the eastward of the Old Harry. There 
 are no good marks for clearing the west side, or for leading 
 clear outside of them, so that the only guide for the latter purpose 
 is not to bring the East Point to bear to the eastward of N. E., 
 and, for the former, is not to bring the west end of Coffin Island 
 to bear to the westward of N. W.^N. But although there are 
 no good marks, an angle with a quadrant will answer the purpose 
 as well and as easily. On the outer edge of these shoals, the 
 angle between the Old Harry Head and the left or west extremity 
 of Coffin Island is 17° : consequently, with these points subtend- 
 ing any less angle, the vessel will pass outside of the shoals. 
 Coffin Island extends 4 miles to the westward of the Old Harry, 
 having on its south side a lagoon with a very narrow outlet, . .''ed 
 the Oyster Pond, and which boats can only enter in fine weather. 
 Off the coast of Coffin Island there are several rocks, besides the 
 Columbine Shoals, but as these are in-shore, and out of the way of 
 vessels, it is sufficient to refer to them, and to remark, that this is a 
 very dangerous part of the islands, which should never be ap- 
 proached at night or in foggy weather. 
 
 At the N. W. end of Coffin Island, and between it and the sand- 
 bars to the westward, is the entrance of Grand Entry Harbour, 
 which has water enough within for large vessels, and is superior, in 
 this respect, to any other in the Magdalens. But its entrance is 
 extremely narrow, not exceeding 50 fathoms in breadth, and the 
 narrow channel leading to it, between sandy shoals which are said 
 to shift, extends 1^ mile to the westward. These circumstances 
 render instructions for entering it of no avail. A native pilot 
 should be employed, or the channel buoyed or staked, and even 
 
MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 
 
 d3 
 
 )deratc 
 
 u mile. 
 
 by S., 
 
 itrance 
 
 HOALS, 
 
 n this, 
 patches 
 
 than 3 
 oals are 
 hauling 
 f winds. 
 E. Cape 
 There 
 
 leading 
 
 purpose 
 >f N.E., 
 n Island 
 here are 
 
 purpose 
 oals, the 
 ixtremity 
 
 subtend- 
 
 c shoals. 
 
 d Harry, 
 
 et,. .:'ed 
 Acathcr. 
 
 IsidcB the 
 
 |ie way of 
 ; this is a 
 be ap- 
 
 ihe sand- 
 
 [ARUOVR, 
 
 pcnor, in 
 
 Itrance is 
 
 and the 
 
 are said 
 
 [istances 
 
 live pilot 
 
 land even 
 
 then the entrance should not be attempted excepting with a leading Orand Entry 
 wind, flowing tide, and fine weather. The depth that can be "'^ ^' 
 carried in, at low water, is 10 feet : at high water, neap tides, 12 
 feet ; and in spring tides, 1 3 feet. There are 28 feet water at, and 
 immediately within, the entrance. The ebb tidi ■ .is out witli 
 great rapidity, and the flood in is also strong. There are no settle- 
 ments at Grand Entry Harbour, but there are a few families in the 
 vicinity of the N. £. cape who breed cattle, and are of British ex- 
 traction. 
 
 Within this harbour there is a large expanse of water, from 
 1 to 3 fathoms deep, extending north-eastward to the southern 
 shores of Grosse Isle, and communicating by a very narrow 
 channel with a large shallow pond, which washes the base of 
 the N. E. cape, and extends to within about 2 miles of the eastern 
 extremity of the chain. This great lagoon also extends south- 
 westward, between a double line of sand-bars, to the eastern 
 shores of Grindstone Island, and is, in all, 23 miles long, and 
 from half a mile to 3 miles wide. Throughout its whole extent 
 there is a communication for boats, at high water, perfectly shel- 
 tered from the sea. There are, at present, 3 entrances into this 
 laguon from the sea, namely. Grand Entry Harbour, already men- 
 tioned ; another 3^ miles to the westward, which is very shallow ; 
 and House Harbour, near its S. W. extremity, between Alright 
 and Grindstone Islands. There were formerly others, which have 
 been closed since the time of Des Barres, 1778 : and, on the other 
 hand, the second, mentioned above, has opened since his time. 
 
 Shag Island is small and low, and of sandstone, lying about Shag hlantl. 
 half a mile from the sand-bars, nearly midway between Coffin and 
 Alright Islands, and out of the way of vessels. 
 
 Cape Alright bears from the Old Harry Head, S. 72° W., Cape Alriyhi. 
 16^ miles. It is the southern point of Alright Island, and a 
 very remarkable headland. The cliffs, of a greyish-white colour, 
 with occasional brick-red low down, are 400 feet high, at the 
 highest part, which is about a mile to the eastward of the ca})e, 
 and those to the westward of the cape, towards House Har- 
 bour, are also very high, and of the same colour. 
 
 Nearly a mile inland is the summit of Alright Island, 420 feet AMt,ht Summit, 
 above the sea. Between this summit and the cape there is a very 
 remarkable hill, named Bute-Rondo. The south extremity of Butc-Ronde. 
 the cape ia low, with a small rock close oil' it. 
 
 
 I 
 ■■■-'■ J 
 
&i 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 •*■= 
 
 Pear/ Reef. 
 
 All ight Reef. Ai-RicHT Reep lies S. 80° E. 3j miles from Cape Alright 
 to the outer edge of the reef, which io 400 fathoms long, by 
 300 fathoms wide. It is of white and pointed rocks having 
 
 Maika, over them 6 feet least water. On this reef the Bute-Ronde 
 
 is on with the summit of Grindstone Island ; the west side of 
 Cape Alright is on with the west side of Cape Moule : and the 
 whole of the woody Wolf Island is just open to the westward of 
 
 c/.yiWh// J/((/A. Shag IsIb"'!, Therefore to clear the S. W. side, keep the well 
 marked summit of Grindstone Island open to the south-westward 
 of Cape Alright; and to clear the south-eastern side of this 
 reef, keep the east side of the woods of Wolf Island (seen over 
 the sand-bars) open to the eastward of Shag Island. 
 
 The N. E. point of Entry Island bears S.JE. 7 miles, from 
 Cape Alright ; and the channel between them leads into Pleasant 
 Bay, passing previously between Alright Reef and the Pearl 
 Reef. 
 
 The Pearl Reef is small and dangerous, and of white 
 pointed rocks, like most of the reefs round these islands. It is 
 round, and about 200 fathoms in diameter, with 9 feet least 
 water. It bears S. 41° E., 8^ miles from Cape Alright ; and 
 N. 80° E. 4j miles, from the N. E. point of Entry Island. Even 
 with a moderate swell the sea breaks heavily upon it. Tlie 
 marks on this reef are the Demoiselle Hill, open one quarter of 
 a point to the northward of the cliffs of Entry Island, and exactly 
 on with the extremity of the N. W. spit, above water, of the 
 same island. This spit, however, can be seldom seen from the 
 reef. The cross mark is the three high cliffs, on the S. W. side 
 of Alright Island, nearly in one, bearing N. 44° W., when the 
 north-westward of those cliffs will be seen over the middle one, 
 and between it and the south-eastmost. Hence, keeping all 
 those cliffs open will clear the reef to the westwa- 1, and the 
 north-westmost cliff completely shut in behind the other two will 
 clear it to the eastward. The Demoiselle Hill shut in behind 
 the north side of Entry Island will clear it to the south- 
 ward; and, lastly, the Di^moiselle kept more than half a point 
 open to the northward of Entry Island will clear it to the north- 
 ward. 
 
 To the N. W. of Cape Alright, and distant 2^ miles, is the 
 entrance of Hdusic Hakboiir, h narrow and crooked channel, 
 with only Icct at low water. 
 
 Marks. 
 
 Clraring 
 Marks. 
 
MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 
 
 55 
 
 From Cape Alright, S. 80° W. 5 miles, across the bay in which Red Cape. 
 is the entrance of House Harbour, livings us to Red Cape, the 
 southern point of Grindstone Island, and the north point of Pleasant 
 Bay. The opposite point of the bay, Sandy Hook, is the east point Sandy Hook. 
 of Amherst Island, and beard from the Red Cape S. by E. J^ E., 
 6 miles. From this line to the shore of Amherst Island at the 
 head of the bay, the distance is 4i miles. Between Red Cape and Cape Monk. 
 House Harbour is Cape Moule, of grey sandstone, off which 
 there is a rock, with 5 feet of water ; and] there is another rock, 
 with 3 feet, off the west side of Alright Island. These will be seen 
 in the chart, and as they lie out of the way of vessels, require no 
 further notice. 
 
 Grindstone Island is the second largest of the chain, being, Grindstone 
 in this respect, intermediate between Amherst and Alright Islands. * "" 
 Its summit is elevated 550 feet above the sea at high water. 
 
 Amherst Island, the largest and south-westermost of the Mag- Amherst 
 dalens, is connected with Grindstone Island by a double line of "'"""• 
 sand-bars, inclosing an extensive lagoon, 5 or 6 miles long, and 
 from 1 to 3 miles wide, the southern part of which is called Basque Baique 
 Harbour. This lagoon is fiiU of sands, which dry at low water, ^"''^o^*'' 
 and has 30 outlets into Pleasant Bay, the southernmost being 
 tlie deepest, but having only 3 feet water over its bar at low 
 water. The others, including three through the saml-bars of the 
 N. W. coast, will only admit boats at high water, and when the 
 surf is not too high. 
 
 The hills in the interior of Amherst Island rise to the height 
 of 550 feet above the sea. Towards the south-east part of the 
 island, and about a mile to the N. W. of Amherst Harbour, is the 
 very remarkable conical hill, named the Demoiselle, of trap Demoiselle 
 rock, and 280 feet higii. The perpendicular and dark red cliffs ^'^'• 
 of the Demoiselle are washed by the waters of Pleasant Bay. 
 
 Amherst Harbour is formed by a peniiibula, presenting cliffs Amherst 
 of grey sandstone to seaward, in the S. E. connjr of Pleasant ""*''"""'• 
 Bay. Its entrance, between this peninsula and the sands to the 
 southward, is 2^ miles within, or to the westward of the extremity 
 of Sandy Hook, which is a long and narrow sandy point with 
 sand-hills. This harbour is the easiest of access and egress of any 
 in the Magdalens, and has, moreover, the advantage of an excellent 
 roadstead outside, where vessels may wait their opportunity of 
 running in. Nevertheless, its cntiancc is extremely narrow and 
 
 * '■ 
 
 1^. ! 
 
56 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Amhtrti Har- rather crooked, so that, without a pilot, it would be necessary to 
 "''' buoy or stake the channel. The depth over the bar, which is 
 
 rocky, is 7 feet at low water, and from 9 to 10 feet at high water, 
 according as it may be neap or spring tides. Within the har- 
 bour there are from 12 to 17 feet, over a bottom of soft, black, 
 and fetid n?ud, well sheltered from every wiijd. 
 
 PU(U(t.tt Bay. Pleasant Bay is the best roadstead in the Magdalens, and the 
 only one where vessels can venture to lie with all winds, during 
 the three finest months of summer, June, July, and August. In 
 those months, a gale of wind from the eastiK'ard, so heavy as to 
 endanger a vebsel with good anchors and cables, does not occur 
 above once in 3 or 4 years. The riding, however, is often heavy 
 and rough enough in north-cast gales, and a vessel should be well 
 moored with a whole cable on each anchor, an open hawse to 
 leeward, and all snug aloft. 
 
 The best and most sheltered anchorage is in 4 fathoms, with 
 the rocky point of entrance of Amherst Harbour bearing S. W. 
 \ W., two-thirds of a mile, and a little more than half a mile from 
 high water mark on the sandy beach to the southward, when 
 a remarkable and high sand-hill will bear S. J^E. A large ship 
 should anchor further off, and should take notice, that there is only 
 from 3 to 3j fathoms in one part of the bay, as will be seen in the 
 chart. The bottom is everywhere excellent for holding, and of 
 red sandy clay. A vessel, anchored as I have recommended, will 
 be sheltered from E. N.E.i E. round by the southward and west- 
 ward to N. E. J N., and will, consequently, have only 3 points 
 completely open. Even when the wind comes right in, the sea is 
 much lessened by passing over so much of shoal water ; neverthe- 
 less, I am of opinion, that the attempt to ride out a heavy easterly 
 gale, either before June, or after August, would be attended with 
 great danger, and do not recommend Pleasant Bay as a pleasant 
 place under such circumstances at any time of the year. In the 
 northern and western parts of the bay, sandy flats extend more 
 than a mile from the beach. 
 
 From the Sandy Hook to theN.W. point of Entry Island, the 
 bearing is east, by compass, 2j^ miles. There is an extensive flat 
 sandy shoal running out 2 miles from Sandy Hook towards Entry 
 Island, which last has also rocky shoals off its west side. Sandy- 
 hook Cliannel, between them, is two-thirds of a mile wide, and 
 4 fathoms can be curried through il by a good pilot, but 3i fathoms 
 
 Sandy-hiiok 
 Channel. 
 
MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 
 
 57 
 
 is the utmost that can be safely reckoned on by a stranger. Sandif-hooi ,.. 
 
 There are several rocky patches of 2h fathoms off the S. W. *" ' 
 
 point of Entry Island, reaching to fully three-quarters of a mile 
 
 from the shore. The ebb tide sets strongly through this channel, 
 
 and over Sandy-hook Flat, so that large vessels should go round ' 
 
 to the eastward of Entry Island rather than encounter so many 
 
 difficulties. To run through Sandy-hook Channel from the sea, 
 
 keep the east side of Alright Island just open to the westward 
 
 of the shingle and sandy spit forming tlie N. W. point of Entry 
 
 Island, until abreast of the S. W. point of the last named island, 
 
 then haul up for the summit of Grindstone Island, look'ng out 
 
 for the edge of the land shoal to the westward, whioh can 
 
 generally be seen. 
 
 Entry Island is the highest of the Magdalens, its summit Entry iiland. 
 being 580 feet above the sea at high water. Its red cliffs are mag- 
 nificent and beautiful, rising, at the N. E. point, to 350 feet ; and 
 at the south point to 400 feet of perpendicular height. Off the 
 N. E. point there is a high ruck about half a cable's length from 
 the cliflfs, and on its north side the remarkable Tower Rock, of 
 red sandstone joined to the island, and which can be seen from 
 the S. W. over the low N. W. point, as well as from the N. E. 
 
 Vessels occasionally anchor under Entry Island in northerly 
 and easterly winds, but it is rough riding, by reason of the sea 
 which rolls round the island. 
 
 The inhabitants of Entry Island raise cattle and sheep, 
 depending more upon the sale of fresh provisions than the fisheries. 
 Vessels may, therefore, almost always obtain supplies. 
 
 From Sandy Hook the south coast of Amherst Island, consisting South coast of 
 of sand-hills and beaches, with shoal water half a mile oflF, curves jgia„j^ 
 round to the westward, for 6 or "J miles, to the r; ^<>' .-.ie of a 
 basin, which extends nearly across the island to within less than 
 half a mile of Pleasant Bay. The Basin is now so nearly closed T^e Basin. 
 with sand, that boats can only enter at high watei , and in the finest 
 weather; but, formerly, the entrance was d'ep enough for large 
 schooners, and it has been frequented by those vessels within 
 the memory of the elder inhabitants. 
 
 There is good anchorage off the entrance, in from 6 to 9 fathoms 
 sandy bottom, and with winds from N. W. round by north to 
 east. 
 
 
58 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Amherst Cliff: A mile-and-a-half to the westward of the entrance of the basin, 
 cliffs commence and continue, except in Cabauc Bay, to 
 the west cape, which is the highest cliflf of Amherst Island, 
 its summit being 300 feet above the sea. There is a remarkable 
 
 Detached Rock, rock above water close to the shore, and about a quarter of a mile 
 to the southward of it. 
 
 Cabane Bay. Cabane Bay is a small bight, between the south and S. W. 
 capes of Amherst Island, where vessels may safely anchor 
 with northerly and easterly winds, and where good water may 
 easily be obtained. The best berth is in 8 or 9 fathoms, sandy 
 bottom, off the centre of the bay, with the south cape and Cape 
 Perc6 in one, three-quarters of a mile off shore. 
 
 36. From the west cape, the remainder of .he sea-coast of 
 Amherst Island consists of red cliffs, without beach, but having 
 shoal water one-third of a mile off shore, all the way to West Lake, 
 a small pond at the S. W. end of the sand-bars, which join 
 Amherst and Grindstone Islands. At the N. E. extremity of 
 
 Gu/i hlei, these sand-bars is Gull Islet, which is small, rocky, and close 
 to the western point of Grindstone Island, and has shoal water off 
 its west point to the distance of one-third of a mile. About IJ^ 
 mile south-westward of it, nearly li miles off the N. W. outlet 
 of Basque Harbour, and with the west side of Gull Islet and 
 
 Shoai. Gros Cap in one, lies a rocky shoal with 3 fathoms at low water, 
 
 and leaving no good passage between it and the shore. Close to 
 the N. E. of Gull Island is the Etang du Nord, a small inlet, 
 affording good shcltc: to boats. 
 
 Uotpttai /iuik. The northern shore of Grindstone Island is of red sandstone 
 cliffs, less high than those of Amherst Island. Near their N. E. 
 extreme lies the Hospital Uuck, closp to the si^orc, and also some 
 rocky 3 fathom patches, more than half a mile from the shore, as 
 will be seen in the chart. 
 
 H'kiie llorte. The White Hohse Ib the name of a very dangerous reef, 
 lying N. G0° E., 7 miles, from Dcadman Islet ; and due 
 W. N. W. 5^ miles, from Gull Islet. It is extremely small, 
 being scarcely more than a cal)le'B length in diitiiieter ; and 
 having 10 feet least water over pointed rocks, on which the sea 
 often breaks. On this rerf the summit of Entry Island is www 
 over a low part of ihc sand-bars nt the N. E. outlttof Havre 
 Ba8(iue, but this mark cannot be cuvily diBcerucd by u stiangcr, 
 
MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 
 
 59 
 
 
 nor is there any other ; but the bearings and distances, together IVhite Hone. 
 with the chart, will be a sufficient guide. To those that can take 
 a terrestrial angle with a quadrant, a matter so simple that it is 
 astonishing that it is not more generally known and practised, the 
 following may be of use. When on the reef the western extremity 
 of Amherst Island and Hospital Cape (the north-easteni extre- 
 mity of the cliffs of Grindstone Island) subtend an angle of 
 91° 30' ; consequently with these points subtending a less 
 angle by 3 or 4 degrees, the vessel will pass outside of the reef. 
 With a greater angle, 94 or 95 degrees, she will pass inside of it, 
 or between it and the shore. 
 
 There ere irregular soundings and foul ground between this 
 reef and the shore, but nothing less than 5 fathoms, excepting 
 what has been already mentioned. 
 
 The Pierre de Gros Cap is another dangerous reef of rocks, iHerrt de Groi 
 nearly of the same size as the White Horse, and having 18 feet '^" 
 least water. This reef is seldom seen, as the sea breaks upon it 
 only in very heavy weather. It lies N. 62° E., 6 miles, 
 from the White Horse; due north from the west point of 
 Etang du Nord ; N. 56° W. from Hospital Cape, and 3% miles 
 otf Cape le Trou, the nearest point of Grindstone Island. The 
 marks on this reef are — First, The summit uf Alright Island 
 seen over the N. E. point of Grindstone Island, which is in the 
 lagoon, and very nearly on with Ht)Bpitiil Cape. Secondly, the 
 Bute de Portiige, a hill of Amherst Island, situated about Ij 
 miles N. W. of the Demoiselle, midwny or in the centre of the 
 narrow passage between Gull Island, anu the west point of 
 Etang du Nord. These marks kept open will clear the reef 
 to the N. E. and S. W., and a vessel will pass well clear outside 
 of it, and also of the White Horse, if Deadmiin Islet be not 
 brought to bear to the westward of S. W. J W. 
 
 From lIot«|)itul Cape t«» Wolf Island, olf which t^ere is a rocky 
 H fathom shoal nearly half a mile from the shore, the nortlieru 
 (•(last of the Magdalens consists merely of sand-beaches and 
 Miud-hills for a distance of 9 or 10 miles. The low sanilstono 
 cliil's of Wolf IsLANn, wliich i. about tliree-cjuarters of a mile mif bland, 
 hiiig, interrupt tb( continuance of the sandy shore for only 
 half a mile ; tlic santl IhmicIics then reconnnencc, and continue, 
 with high simd hills oicasioiially, U or 10 milis fiulhcr, lo the 
 
 'ffli'" 
 
 
60 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Norik Cape. 
 
 North Cape 
 Rockt. 
 
 north cape. In all this part the sand-bars may be safely 
 approached by the lead as near as 9 or 10 fathoms of depth 
 of water. 
 
 The NORTH CAFE of the Magdalens is the northern point 
 of GroBse Isle, and a precipice of considerable height, but not so 
 high as the west point of the same island, which is in the great 
 lagoon, and 300 feet above the sea. 
 
 The North Cape Rocks, some of which always show, lie to the 
 westward of the cape, the outermost being 6U0 fathoms off shore. 
 The west end of these rocks bears S.S.E. from the highS.W. side 
 of Grosse Isle, and their extent to the eastward is marked by the 
 N.E. sides of the north and N. E. capes in one. Therefore, in 
 running down from the westward to anchor under the north 
 cape, do not come nearer to the shore than 1 mile until the above- 
 named marks open. In this anchorage, namely to the eastward 
 of the north cape, vessels may ride in 8 or 9 fathoms, over 
 sandy bottom, with all southerly winds, and will find good holding 
 ground, and plenty of room to get under weigh. Water may be 
 had in small quantities near the houses on the east side of the 
 north cape, but there are no good watering-places excepting those 
 already mentioned. 
 
 The coast continues from the north cape, in a curved line of 
 8and-bcachc8 and sand-hills, for about 6 miles, which distance 
 again brings us to the cast point, and completes the description 
 of the Magdalens. 
 Making the 37. Although, I have given a general description of the 
 
 Aft»7(/rt/r«» uppcarance of the Magdalens, yet as vessels passing to the south- 
 wunU ward of them have b'^en directed to endeavour to make Entry 
 
 Island, it may be useful to add, that that island, when first made 
 from tlic eastward, will appear like a double peaked iiill, sloping 
 snmewliat abruptly down to ])crpendicular and high clitl's on either 
 •idc. The S. W. point of Amherst Island is also a steep cliff, 
 hi' of less height, and as there is no land to the suutliward and 
 westward of it, it cannot b(; mistaken. The land rises from it 
 in undulations to the highest parts of the island. Should the 
 weather be foggy the Koundings, as shown in the churti, will safely 
 guide vesBcls parsing to ttic south-eastward of the islands, 
 Tiic general BOundinr.;B around the Magdalens, wliieli ext(>n>i 
 oiT them so many miles in every direction, and which liave now 
 
MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 
 
 61 
 
 for the first time been correctly laid ilown by ns, thus affording an 
 
 invaluable assistance to vessels at night or in foggy weather, will 
 
 be better understood from the charts than by any written 
 
 directions. 
 
 I have now only to notice the important subject of the 7><fc» and 
 . , 1 1 • I , Ciirreiil&, 
 
 set 01 the currents or tidal streams around these islands, 
 
 respecting which I can say nothing that, will not be subject 
 
 to exception, for they are so irregular, thai the most experienced 
 
 and intelligent pilots for the islands, who art also fishermen, who 
 
 have passed their lives in fishing craft around them, can give no 
 
 certain account of their rate and direction, but all agree in etating, 
 
 that they vary in both respects, either from the effects of .vinds, 
 
 or other and unknown causes. 
 
 Nevertheless, the following observations will hold good as 
 a general rule, and although subject to occasional interruption the 
 set of the tidal streams, which I am about to describe, will l)e 
 found to recur with considerable constancy in fine weather. 
 
 A few miles outside of Bryon Island and the Bird Rocks, there 
 appears to be usually a current setting to the south-eastward, out 
 of the Gulf ; but the stream of flood tide flows between them and 
 the Magdalens. The stream of flood comes from the S. E., and F/uud Stream. 
 is divided by the ciist point of the Magdalens. One branch of 
 the stream sets strongly over the Long-spit, which, with the 
 Old Harry Head and the shoals off it, turn it off to the south- 
 wcstwnrd towards Entry Island, leaving nearly slack water in the 
 bay between Collin Island and Cape Alright, and also in Pleasant 
 Bay. The other branch, to the northward of the islands, follows 
 'the shore from East Point round to the south-west cape of 
 Andicrst Island, whence the greater part of the stream continues 
 its course to the S.W. ; whilst the remainder, following the shore 
 runs round, and along the southern coast of Amherst Island, 
 until it nuets the lu-rore-menlioned other branch of the stream 
 from the cast point setting off tlie east side of Entry Island ; it is 
 overcome by this other branch and turned gradually round to 
 join the general weak stream of flood to the westward in the 
 offn^g. 
 
 On the S. E. side of the islands, the stream of the ebb tide Ebb SirKim, 
 sets strongly out of the lagoons and out of Pleasant Hay, between 
 the Sandy Hook and Rntry Island. It is also often found 
 running to the westward along the southern shores of Amherst 
 
62 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 I* 
 
 t 
 
 TTideii, Island, and right round it in like manner, but contrary in direc- 
 
 tion, to the course of the flood already described. In the offing, at 
 the same time, the stream of ebb is from the S. W., and sets over 
 the sandspit off the Sandy-hook Point, where it meets the stream 
 from the N. W., which has followed the north shore of the 
 islands, round from Amherst Island to the east point. The 
 meeting of these two streams of the ebb tide, together with the 
 shoalness of the water, causes so heavy a breaking sea in strong 
 easterly winds, that the fishing shallops dare not venture at times 
 to pass the point. 
 
 The rate of either stream seldom amounts to a knot, excepting 
 close in shore, or round the points. The ebb, however, is gene- 
 rally the stronger stream, and its rate is increased by westerly 
 winds, as is that of the flood by winds from the eastward. 
 
 ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 
 
 Gentrtd 38. The island of Anticosti, situated in the entrance of the 
 
 AniZ'/r "'^ N. W. arm of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, is 122 miles lojig, 30 
 miles in extreme breadth, and about 270 miles in circumference, 
 following the coast from point to point across the bays. 
 
 Lmcsione. Its shores arc everywhere of rock, belonging to one great 
 
 formation, namely, a very ancient secondary limestone, aflbrding 
 in some parts excellent building stone, of which the two light- 
 houses have been constructed. 
 
 Dwur/ Tree». On and near the coasts, the limestone is covered with a thick 
 and often impenetrable forest of dwarf spruce, whicli, in some 
 exposed situations, is only a few feet in height, with gnarled 
 branches, so twisted and matted together, that a man may walk 
 for a considerable distance on tlicir summits. Extensive banks 
 of limestone shingle, bush, swamps, morasses, and also beds 
 of peat, are of connnon occurrence. 
 
 Timber. The interior of the island is probably less sterile, for I have 
 
 seen white spruce spars large enough for the musts of a schooner of 
 60 tons, and others of juniper ; with a species of larch of excellent 
 quality, and of sufficient size to form the keel of a vessel of the 
 same dimensions. Black and wliite birch, and ash, the latter of 
 bad quality, complete the list of trees which attain to any size 
 upon the island. These, indeed, are not indicative of a very good 
 soil anywhere, l)ut when they attain to large dimensionHHOuie toil 
 at least will be found. 
 
ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 
 
 63 
 
 thick 
 some 
 iiarlcd 
 walk 
 xinks 
 beds 
 
 Land birds appear to be. very scarce, probably because there (^•'"''ral 
 
 . , , , 1^ ' DetcrijilioH of 
 
 arc few wild fruits for their support, the cloud berry, on the peaty Antimtti. 
 
 morasses, being the only one we observed in any plenty. Even Iiird», 
 
 the common Canadian partridge, or wood grouse, to be found 
 
 almost anyAvhcre else, is said not to exist upon this island. In 
 
 winter, however, the white partridge, probably ptarmigan or 
 
 willow grouse, is seen in the interior. There are as few Qumlrupeih, 
 
 varieties of quadrupeds as of the feathered tribes. The squirrel 
 
 and Canadian hare, without which I have rarely seen an island of 
 
 any size in the Canadas, were never seen by us, and are reported 
 
 not to exist here. If I may believe the account of M. Gamache, 
 
 who has resided and hunted here for many years, there are only 
 
 4 or 5 species of quadrupeds upon the island, namely, the black 
 
 bear, fox, otter, mnrtin, and a few mice. I was also informed, 
 
 that there are neither snakes, toads, nor frogs, nor did we ever sec 
 
 any ; and that rats, which have occasionally landed from wrecks, 
 
 have soon disappeared. 
 
 The climate, from its proximity to an open sea, is probably not Climate. 
 more severe in winter than that of Quebec, although further to the 
 north, mt the summers are cold, wet, and stormy, with frequent 
 fogs. Frosts are common in August, and in some severe seasons 
 they occur in every month of the year. It is probable that no 
 other grain but barley would ripen here, unless it might be oats 
 occasionally in sheltered situations. Potatoes are frequently 
 prevented by early frosts from coming to perfection, although 
 planted in the most favourable situations. 
 
 It appears, therefore, that not much can ever be expected from 
 the products of the soil, but the forests, the rivers, the reefs, and 
 the surrounding sea, contribute in affording a j)rofitable return to 
 the industry of the few persons who reside upon, or frequent the 
 island. 
 
 Streams of excellent water descend to the sea on every part River: 
 of the coasts. They are generally too small to admit boats, 
 becoming rapid immediately within their entrances, and even the 
 largest of them, Observation River, to the westwanl of the 
 S. VV. point, is barred with sand, excc])tiug for short intervals 
 of time after the spring freshets or heavy rains. 
 
 Many of these streams abound with trout, and are visited Tvout ami 
 perioilic.ally by great ninnliers of salmon, which are taken by the *"""""• 
 2 or 3 retiidcnt families, and t<alted fur the Quebec nunkct. 
 
 ■4 
 
11 
 
 64 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Generat 
 
 Deicriptionof 
 
 jinticottit 
 
 Codfitk. 
 
 Bears. 
 Exporli. 
 
 Eltvalion. 
 
 No harbour. 
 
 Danger » of itt 
 coaatt. 
 
 Seals frequent the flat limestone reefs, and are killed annually 
 in great numbers for their skins and oil. 
 
 Codfish are taken occasionally off several parts of the coast, 
 in small schooners from the Magdalens, and other parts of the 
 Gulf, Their crews often join the occupation of wrecker to that of 
 fishermen . The black bears are very numerous, and may frequently 
 be seen wandering along the shores. Their skins, together with 
 a few of the other animals named, salted salmon, seal skins, and 
 seal oil, are the only exports, and are taken to Quebec, together 
 with occasional cargoes of goods and people saved from wrecks in 
 M. Gamache's schooner, the only vessel belonging to the island. 
 Wild geese, outards, and ducks of various species are abundant, 
 and breed upon the island. 
 
 Anticosti is estimated to be nowhere higher than 700 feet 
 above the sea. Its south coast is low and shelving, with reefs 
 of flat limestone which dry at low water. There is, however, 
 a range of highlands in rear of the S. W. point, and extending 
 for some miles both to the north-westward and south-eastward of 
 it. The north coast, for 70 ot 80 miles to the westward of the 
 east point, is bold, precipitous, and of considerable elevation. 
 Picturesque headlands, the eastern terminations of parallel ridges 
 of table land, that rise gently with the strata from the S. W., end 
 in magnificent cliffs of limestone, which are externally so nearly 
 white from the effects of weathering, as to resemble chalk. Some 
 of these cliffs are upwards of 400 feet in periiendiculnr height- 
 The remainder of the north coast is low, with reefs of flat lime- 
 stone, like the southern shores. 
 
 It is tmusual to find an island so large as Anticosti without 
 a good harbour. Limestone coasts are in general characterised 
 by deep inlets and bays, peninsulatcd points, and detached islets 
 and rocks, but nothing of the kind will be found here, and there 
 is not a single detached shoal off any part of the coasts. 
 
 This island has been generally believed to be extremely 
 dangerous. Its reefs of flat limestone, extending in some parts 
 to lA mile from the shore, the want of anchorage off most parts of 
 the coast, and above all the frequent fogs, justify this belief in part, 
 but not in so great o degree, as to render reasonable the dread 
 with which it seems to have been occasionally regarded, and 
 which can only have arisen from the natural ^tendency to magnify 
 dangers of which we have no precise knowledge. 
 
ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 
 
 0.5 
 
 The people in charge of the lighthouses and provision-posts, General Dp- 
 and one man at Fox Bay, are the only resident inhabitants of the ■"'•'■'/''"'"• 
 island. Tlie provision -posts have been established by the govern- „ pi 
 
 nr.snt and legislature of Lower Canada, for the relief of the crews 
 of vessels wrecked upon the island. Vessels are more frequently 
 lost here in the bad weather at the close of the navigable season, 
 than at other times, and their crews would perish from want and 
 the rigours of a Canadian winter, if it were not for this humane 
 provision. The first of these posts is at Ellis Bay, the second at 
 the lighthouse at the S. W. point, the third at Shallop Creek 
 (sometimes called Jupiter River), and the fourth at the lighthouse 
 on Heath Point.* 
 
 The lighthouse, on the extremity of the S. W. point, has been Lighthouse nn 
 built of a very beautiful greyish-white encrinital limestone, po,>^/°" 
 quarried on the spot. The tower is of the usual conical form, 
 and 75 feet high. The light, which is bright, and revolves every 
 minute, can be seen from N. N. W. round by west and south to 
 S. E. by E. The lantern is elevated 100 feet above the sea at 
 high water ; consequently the light can be seen from a distance 
 not exceeding 1 5 miles, when the height of the observer's eye is 
 10 feet above the sea. When the height of the eye is 50 feet, 
 the greatest distance from which the light can be seen will be 
 about iOj miles, and if the eye be elevated 100 feet the light will 
 be visible as far off as 23 miles nearly, in the average state of the 
 refraction. Hence by ascending the rigging till the light just 
 shows above the hcizon, and then measuring the height of the 
 eye above the sea, a very near estimate of the vessel's distance 
 at night may lie obtained. This lighthouse, and attached pro- 
 vision-post, arc in charge of Lieutenant Harvey, on the half-pay 
 of the navy. 
 
 The other lighthouse, on the southern extremity of Heath l.ifjhthimsr on 
 Point, is of the same form, (limcnsions, and colour, as the above, ' "'" 
 
 
 
 iiilt. 
 
 * Theru ate diruction boiirils elected on the sliore, or miilwl to trui's. from Direclwn 
 which the lirauches have heeii nit off', ni'iir Die lieach. ami on various parts limirds. 
 of the I'oast. Tlieie direction lio.irds are intended to imint out to ship, 
 wrecked persoiiH the way to the provision posts. The direction lioariis weru 
 placed un the foUowiu}; piirts of the shore, as I find from Mr. Lanibly's 
 remark-book, for I have not seen tliom all : — Ist. On the west point, ind. 
 Four Iea);ue8 south-eastward of Kllis Huy. 3rd, Ten leai'ium westward of 
 ijhallop lireek. -1th. Seven U'a);iios eastward of Shallop Creek. And there 
 were foinivily (lthel^ on Heath I'oint ui.d the S. W- point, which the li^ht- 
 luMises have reiuKii'd unnecessary 
 

 66 
 
 Description of 
 Anlici'Sli, 
 South Ciiait, 
 
 East Cape, 
 
 Wreck Bay, 
 
 Heath Point, 
 
 llralh Point 
 lite/, 
 
 ml to be ap- 
 pronr/ied nearer 
 than 3 mileSfOr 
 in 2U fathoms 
 water. 
 
 Heath Point 
 /tnvhurage. 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 and is also built of the island limestone. It has not as yet been 
 lighted, from want of funds, but is intended to show a bright 
 fixed light from W. N. W. round by S. to N. E. by N. The lan- 
 tern will stand 100 feet above the sea. 
 
 Having given this general description of the island, I will now 
 notice more particularly its shores, reefs, and anchoring places. 
 
 39. The east Cape of Anticosti is a perpendicular cliff of 
 limestone, rising to the height of 100 feet above the sea. The 
 ridge, of which it is the south-eastern termination, trends to the 
 westward inland, and the extremity of the very low land to the 
 southward of it is Heath Point, on which is the lighthouse, 
 bearing from the east point N. E. J N., 3^ miles. Between the 
 2 points is Wreck Bay, which is dangerous and affords no 
 anchorage. Off to the S. E. from the east cape a reef extends 
 rather more than one-third of a mile. 
 
 Heath Point is of limestone, about 10 feet high, with a super- 
 stratum of peat, in whicli there are several ponds of dark bog 
 water. Being so low, this Point disappears below the horizon at 
 the distance of a few miles, the lighthouse then appears like a 
 sail off the island, and is extremely useful, in marking the extent 
 of the low land to vessels, either from the eastward or westward, 
 as well as in showing its position from the southward, from which 
 direction it cannot be made out at night, being hidden by the 
 high land behind, or to the northward. 
 
 The most dangerous reef off this end of the island, runs out 
 from Heath Point to the E. S. E., nearly 2 miles, at which 
 distance there are 5 fathoms of water. Within tlint distance the 
 reef is composed of large square blocks of limebtone, with very 
 irregular soundings varying from 2 to 5 fathoms. The rocky and 
 irregular soundings from 5 to 7 fathoms extend nearly 3 miles 
 off Heath Point, so that I recommend vessels not to approach 
 nearer, on any bearing from the Point between S. E. by S. and 
 E. by S. With the east cape bearing N. by W. the vessel will 
 ])aBs just outside of the shallow and irregular soundings in alxiut 
 20 fathoms of water. 
 
 Off Heath Point, to the southward and westward, the shoal 
 water does not extend beyond three-quarters of a mile, and further 
 off on that side there is one of the best open anchorages on the 
 island. The best berth ia in 10 fathoms, over sand and nnid 
 bottom, with the lighthouse E. by N., and Cormorant Point 
 
ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 
 
 67 
 
 1 
 
 shual 
 further 
 on the 
 (1 mud 
 
 Point 
 
 nothing to the westward of W. N. W. The vesael will then be Suuih Cans/. 
 2 miles off shore, and will be sheltered from all winds from 
 W. N. W. round by the N. to E. by N. 
 
 From Heath Point Cormorant Point bears W. by N., 6 miles ; Cormorant 
 and the south point bears W. N. W. 16J^ miles from Cormorant 
 Point. In this distance the coast is low, and undulating, with 
 points of low limestone cliffs, and beaches of sand and shingle in 
 the bays, inclosing large ponds or lagoons, into many of which 
 the tide flows, and also small streams from the interior of the 
 island. This part of the coast may safely be approached by the 
 lead, as will be seen in the chart, for the reefs nowhere extend 
 further off than three-quarters of a mile till we come to the south 
 point. 
 
 The SOUTH POINT is a cliff of sandy clay, resting upon lime- South I'uint. 
 stone. It is estimated not to exceed 60 feet in height, iid there 
 is nothing remarkable in its shape ; but there is no other clay 
 cliff near it, and as it is an extreme point, there will be littli 
 difficulty in distinguishing it by the trending of the land. Thi 
 reef oflFit to the southward, runs out n'jarly IJ^ miles, and the sea Reef, 
 usually breaks upon it. The light on Heath Point and Cor- 
 morant Point in one, bearing E. by S., clear this reef at the 
 distance uf Z miles, but I fear that the light will seldom be seen 
 up to the reef, which is distant 22 miles from it. The leading 
 mark will nevertheless be of use to vessels between South 
 Point and Cormorant Point. 
 
 From South Point to the lighthouse on the S. W. point, a Smih Coaai. 
 distance of 56 miles, there is such a sameness in the character of 
 the coast, that it is very difficult to make out one part from 
 another. 'A^a >..,// 
 
 The houses, however, of Mr. !^bb^B», in charge of the pro- s/m//on Creek. 
 vision post, at Shallop Creek, will be seen 13 miles north-west- 
 ward of the south point, and at the first limestone cliff to the 
 north-westward of those houses is Pavilion River, 24 miles from PavUiun River, 
 South Point. In this distance the coast is very low, and may ,/ 
 
 be approached safely by the deep sea lead, the soundings in 
 moderate depths extending from 5 to 8 miles off, as will be seeu^'"'' ' 
 in the chart. The coast begins to rise at Pavilion River, there ' /'<■ 
 being a high ridge close in rear of the coast all the way to the 
 south-west point, and beyond it for some miles. Tiiis distance of 
 32 miles, between Pavili ai River and the S, VV. point, coinpriacs 
 
 f2 
 
 .«.' 
 > 
 
 
68 
 
 c 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 
 
 I 't 
 
 % 
 
 Rrefa nfflhe 
 
 S<mlli-'H'est 
 
 Coast, 
 
 Full/ i/rotiiul. 
 
 Detcription of the boldest parts of the south coast of the island, but should Ixr 
 Simth'coast. ^^^y cautiously approached in foggy weather, us there is little or 
 no warning by tlie lead. When far enough to the westward, the 
 light on South-west Point bearing nothing to the westward of 
 N. N. W., as before directed (art. 23), will be a sufficient 
 guide. 
 
 In the whole distance from South to South-west Points, the 
 reefs nowhere extend further off from high water mark than one 
 mile, and the island may therefore be safely approached to within 
 2 miles. 
 Slid take Bay. Eleven miles south-eastward of South-west Point, is Salt-lake 
 Bay, which has fine sandy beaches, enclosing lagoons or ponds, 
 into which the tide flows. Off the centre of this Bay, and with 
 its N. W. point bearing N. by E. J E., distant 1| miles, there is 
 very indifferent anchorage, in 7 fathoms, over sandy bottom. 
 Vessels should be careful not to anchor further to the southward 
 and eastward, since there is some foul and rocky ground about a 
 mile in that direction from the jjosition which I have recom- 
 mended. There are 7 fathoms rocky bottom marked in the chart 
 on the s})ot to which I allude, and there is probably less water 
 between it and the south-eastern point of the Bay, so that no one 
 should attempt to pass between it and the shore. 
 
 The S. W. point of Anticosti is u low projecting ridge of 
 limestone, having a small cove on its north side, which forms it 
 into a peninsula. The land rises gradually, in the rear of this, 
 to the summit of the ridge above-mentioned. On the south side 
 of the point there is a beach of limestone gravel on which boats 
 may land, as well as in the cove on the north side, when the wind 
 is oft' the land, and the sea smooth. On the north side of the 
 point, and for several miles along the coast to Observation River, 
 the cliffs arc perpendicidar and washed by the sea. The light- 
 house (page 65) stands on the western extremity of the point, 
 aiul forms a very conypieuous land-mark. A reef extends out from 
 tlie point, to the west and S. W., not more than half a mile ; and 
 2 niiles off, in tlie same direction, there are 30 fathoms, over 
 rocky bottom, deepening rapidly to 05 fathoms, with sand and 
 shells, at the distance of 3 miles. At the distance of 6 miles, to 
 I lie southward and westward of the point, the depth is about 1 10 
 I'iitlidms, with nuid Imttoin, niid iiu'rcases to 200 fathoms nearly 
 midwuv towards the soutii cuiist 
 
 S'liilh- fVtsl 
 I'uinl. 
 
 I,anilinif 
 Heiiv/ies, 
 
 Lighlhouse. 
 
 Reef frnm 
 S. tr. Point. 
 
 Siiuniliiiiji. 
 
ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 
 
 69 
 
 There is a bay on the north side of the point, in which vessels fVe*i Coati. 
 may anchor in 12 or 13 fathoms, over a bottom of sand, gravel, Anchoraqt at 
 aiul broken shells, and with the extremity of the point bearing ""'""*»' 
 S. S. W. 4 W., distant three-quarters of a mile, when the cliffs to 
 the eastward will be at the same distance. The shelter is from N. 
 by E. round by E. to S. by W., and small vessels may lie closer under 
 the point, but it is a dangerous state to be caught in by westerly 
 winds, which are preceded by a heavy swell. The ground, I 
 think, is not to be trusted, so that, altogether, I do uot recom- 
 mend any vessel to anchor here unless in case of necessity. 
 
 There is no anchorage from South-west Point to Ellis Bay, No anvlmmne 
 and as I have already given directions respecting this part oi ////i^ ^'"''^ 
 the western coast (art. 23) little remains to be noticed. The reefs 
 of flat limestone extend from it, in most parts, fully a mile; and 
 often have 10 or 12 fathoms of water close outside of them ; but 
 vessels, with the lead going, may safely stand in as near as 2 
 miles, or, which will be safer than an estimated distance, had 
 better tack in 17 fathoms. 
 
 Observation River, 5i miles northward of South-west okseivaiwit 
 Point, is the largest stream on the island, having 5 or 6 feet of ""^'^' 
 water in its entrance after the melting of the snows in the spring 
 of the year, but soon becomes barred with sand by the S. W. gales. 
 It becomes shoal and rapid immediately within, though it has a 
 course from the eastward of many leagues. It source does not 
 appear to be known to the people of the island. Immediately to Hii/h Sand,/ 
 the northward of this river there are very conspicuous, and high, '**" 
 sandy cliffs. The St. Mary Cliffs, 21 miles from South-west S/. A/«/y c/(/«. 
 Point, are also of sand, less high, and less remarkable, but yet 
 not difficult to distinguish. 
 
 Becscie River is a very small stream, at the head of a small Hectcw Niter. 
 cove affording shelter to boats, and where there is a hut, at which 
 a hunter and fisherman occasionally resides. It is 7 miles north- 
 westward of the St. Mary Clifis, and 12 miles south-eastward of 
 Ellis Bay. 
 
 Ellis Bay affords the only tolerably sheltered anchorage ^■V/ic Ihi/. 
 in the island. Vessels, whose draught is not too great for a 
 depth of 3 fathoms, may safely lie there during the three finest 
 months of summer, namely June, July, and August; but they 
 should moor with an open hawse to the southward. Larger 
 vessels, whose object is to remain lor a few hours only, may 
 
 1 
 
r 
 
 to 
 
 GULF OF ST. LA'WRENCE. 
 
 Il- tt 
 
 ■'•If 
 
 t»; 
 
 
 I;. 
 
 liee/s/rom 
 Cap I'll Henry 
 and Eagle. 
 
 Descripiion of anchor further otit, and in 3i and 4 fathoms, but neither the 
 Wis/ Coatt. ground nor the shelter will be found so good as further up the 
 
 bay, 
 lient Amhorage The best berth is in a line between Cape Henry and the white 
 .» EIUh Bay. ^jjjy^ bearing W. S. W. \ W., and E. N. E. h E. respectively from 
 each other. Gamache house, N. by E., and Cape Eagle between 
 S. S.E. J E., and S. S.E. J E. The vessel will then be in 3 
 fathoms, over muddy bottom, distant about 300 fathoms from the 
 flats on either side, and about half a mile from those at the head 
 of the bay. The extremities of the reefs, off Capes Henry and 
 Eagle, will bear S. W. by S., and S. J E. respectively ; thus 
 leaving 3j points of the compass open, but in a direction from 
 vhich heavy winds are of very rare occurrence, and never last 
 long. Moreover, when they do chance to occur, the sea is much 
 less at the anchorage than might be expected, although very 
 heavy in the entrance between the reefs. These reefs are of flat 
 limestone, and dry at low water ; and as the tides only rise from 
 4 to 7 feet, the sea always breaks upon them when there is the 
 least swell. The reef off Cape Henry runs out nearly a mile to 
 the southward, and that off Cape Eagle nearly three-quarters of 
 a mile to the westward. The entrance between them is 600 
 fathoms wide, from 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms. Extensive flats pro- 
 ject from these reefs quite round the Bay, and do not entirely dry 
 at low water, excepting in very low spring tides, but there are 
 immense boulder-stones upon them which always show. These 
 flats occasion the lauding to be very bad, excepting at high water, 
 which is the only time that supplies of good water can be obtained 
 from Gamache River. 
 
 Ellis Bay can be easily made out from sea, for Cape Henry is a 
 bluff point, and the land being very low at the head of the Bay, 
 occasions the ojiening to show distinctly. On a nearer approach 
 Cape Eagle and Wliite Cliff on the east side, and the houses 
 near the head of the bay, will be easily recognized with the 
 assistance of our chart ; whilst two ridges, or hills, will be seen 
 far back in the country, and to the northward and eastward. 
 
 The long line of breakers on either side, and the numerous 
 large stones so far from the shore a-head, will present anything 
 
 liail /anding. 
 Good IVitter, 
 
 Gamache 
 Jitver. 
 
 Cape Eagle 
 easi/g reiug- 
 nined. 
 
 Direi ti'ins fur 
 ' entering Ll/is 
 
 Bag.. , - 1 , • n 
 
 i^j- 1^^ \ ©J. ^'"^ "" agrteable appearance to those wiio may approach this Bay 
 
 / for the first time, but there will be no danger, if tiie following 
 direction be attended to. In aitproaching the Buy from the west- 
 
ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 
 
 71 
 
 ward, with westerly winds, run down along the outside of the fVeit Coait. 
 reefs off Cape Henry by the lead, and in 10 fathoms, until the Ei^'» Bay. 
 following leading marks come on; namely, the west side of~!""f""* 
 White Cliff on with the east side of the westermost of two hills, 
 far .back in the country, and bearing N. E. |N.j then haul 
 up with these marks on, and they will lead you into smooth 
 water close under Cape Henry Reef, in 3^ fathoms. Con- 
 tinue running in, with these marks on, till Gamache house 
 bears N. by E. ; then haul up for it, and anchor in the berth 
 which I have previously recommended. The lead should be kept 
 going ; and the reefs on either side should not be approached 
 nearer than 3 fathoms, in any part, until you arrive at the 
 anchorage. 
 
 In running for the Bay from the south-eastward, with an easterly 
 wind, come no nearer to the west point of Cape Eagle Reef 
 than 7 fathoms, until the east side of White Cliff come on 
 with the east side of the same hill as before ; then haul up with 
 this mark on till the houses bear N. E., and proceed as above 
 directed. Take notice that the west side of White Cliff is used 
 for the leading mark in westerly winds, and the east side in 
 easterly winds, the intention being to keep the vessel in either 
 case from going too near the lee side of the channel. 
 
 On the outside of Cape Henry, and continuing to the west Reefi between 
 point of Anticosti, reefs extend li miles from the shore; ^^^ amlWes"point 
 vessels approaching it should keep the lead going, and attend 
 to the soundings in the chart. 
 
 40. West Point is low and wooded, with reefs which do not mtt Point. 
 extend beyond a mile from the shore, and vessels may pass it in 
 15 fathoms at the distance of 1| miles. 
 
 The north coast of Anticosti, between the west and north North Coast. 
 points, is low, with reefs of flat limestone, extending 1 mile from 
 the shore. There are soundings, in moderate depths, for more 
 than 1 mile out from the reefs. Vessels shotild not go nearer 
 than 25 fathoms. In the rear of the coast, i.nd about halfway 
 between the west and north points, are the two hills or ridges, 
 mentioned as forming one of the leading marks for Ellis Bay. 
 From North Point to High Cliff, a distance of 13 miles, the 
 coast is rather more bold and elevated, parallel ridges, in an 
 east and west direction, and with small streams between them, 
 beginning to abut upon the coast. North Point is wooded. 
 
 ^ 
 
 no 
 
 ■iW, 
 an 
 
 ■V, 
 
 •Ml 
 
 t 
 
 If' 
 
 n 
 
'%-r* 
 
 72 
 
 
 Description of 
 Antwtisli, 
 North Coait. 
 
 \ 
 
 
 1_ 
 
 
 1 
 
 From High 
 C/ifftn mite 
 Notth-clilf. 
 
 i 
 
 Reefs 2 miles 
 in breaitt/i. 
 
 T 
 
 
 
 
 #■ 
 
 Ciir/eton I'uirit 
 
 '94 
 
 .Invhurnije, 
 
 Hitler. 
 
 ('(I fie Ukerva- 
 
 i 
 
 ItiH. 
 
 \ 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 .^ 
 
 .■Inr/inrnr/r, 
 
 ' 
 
 Woin/fflftU 
 
 
 tl'iitir. 
 
 1* 
 
 '4 
 
 
 ' 
 
 Ikar llitiil. 
 
 i 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 of very moderate height, and without any cliff. Kt is so little 
 remarkable as ta be only distinguished by the change which 
 takes place at it in the direction of the coast. High Cliff Cape 
 is easily recognised, being the only cliff on the island that has a 
 talus in front of it, or that has not its base washed by the sea at 
 high water. 
 
 From High Cliff to White North-cliff, a distance of 26 miles, 
 the coast is low in front, with ridges of considerable elevation a 
 /ew miles back in the country. This is the most dangerous part 
 of the north coast, for the reefs extend nearly 2 miles out from 
 high water mark, beginning at some low cliffs 1 miles eastward 
 of High Cliff Cape, and continue to do so for 4 or 5 miles to the 
 south-eastward, after which they gradually diminish in breadth, 
 till at White North-cliff they are not more than half a mile from 
 the shore. There is, however, less warning by the deep sea lead 
 all aloHjT this part of the coast until we approach White North- 
 cliff, off which there are 70 fathoms, at the distance of H miles 
 from the surf. 
 
 White North-clifF is very remarkable, for there is no other 
 high cliff near it. It aj)pears like a white patch on the land, and 
 can be seen from a distance of 6 or 1 leagues. 
 
 Low cliffs commence 4 miles south-eastward of White North- 
 cliff, and continue to Carleton Point, under which vessels may 
 anchor in fine weather and westerly winds, and obtain wood and 
 water. Ten miles further to the south-eastward is Cape Oljserva- 
 tion, a bold, high, and remarkable headland. On its west side 
 there is a magnificent range of greyish white cliffs several hundred 
 feet high. At the extremity of the cape, these cliffs become sud • 
 deiily much lower, and then rise again to their former elevation 
 for a short distance on the cast side. As this is well described in 
 the clmrt the cape will be easily recognised. Vessels may anchor 
 luider it with westerly winds and fine weather, and obtain sup- 
 plies jf wood and water very conveniently. Twelve and a lialf 
 miles further south-eastward, along a bold coast with high 
 greyish white cliffs and smiill bays between, brings us to Hear 
 Head, also of lireyish white cliffs 400 feet hiirh, and resembling 
 in some degree Cape Observation. This last niinicd clilf hmt no 
 cfpuilly high cliU'w to the wt>- ''ard of it, whilst Hear Iliad has a 
 difference whicii will pievent the one from being mistaken for 
 liie other. 
 
ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 
 
 73 
 
 From the WoBt Cliff to Bear Head the coast is extremely bold, North Coatt. 
 there being in most parts 100 fathoms of water within 3 miles of 
 the shore. 
 
 Bear Bay is situated between Bear Head and Cape Robert, Bear Bay. 
 which are distant nearly 6 miles from each other, in a N. N.W. ^W. 
 and S. S. E. \ E. direction nearly. It is by far the best roadstead Goml Road- 
 on the north coast of Anticosti, and, indeed, the only one in which *'*" ' 
 a large ship would like to anchor, unless she had some particular 
 object in view. It is sufficiently roomy, the bottom is excellent 
 for holding, the depth of water moderate, and the shelter extends 
 from N. N. W. round by west and south to S. E. by S. In order 
 to recognise this anchorage, it may be observed that Cape Cupe Ruberi. 
 Robert consists of cliffs of the same colour and elevation as 
 those of Bear Head ; and that there are two other points of cliffs 
 300 feet high within the bay, the south-eastmost of whuli is 
 named Tower Point. Between Towtr Point and Cape Robert, at Tuu<er Ptiini. 
 a distance of one mile from the former, as well as from the 
 western shore, pud in 13 fathoms of water over a iioitom of 
 brown mud, is the best anchorage, where Tower Point will 
 bear N.W. 4 W., Cape Robert S-E.^S., and Bear Head N.by 
 W. iW. 
 
 Bear Bay is divided into three smaller bays by the two high 
 points of cliff which I have mentioned. In each of these bays 
 there are line bold beaches of sand and limestone shingle, and 
 streams where water may be easily obtained. But the principal llaier. 
 stream is Bear River, which enters the southernmost of the three 
 bays close to the S. E. side of Tower Point. It is too shallow and 
 rapid to admit boats, but the water is clear and good. The cliffs 
 in Bear Bay are nagnificent : they are of greyish white lime- 
 stone, in thin strata dipping very slightly to the southward, and 
 are perpendicular or overhanging. At the extremities of the 
 points the cliffs are rounded by tlic action of the waves and 
 ahnosphcrc so as to resemble towers, which resemblance is ren- 
 tlercd stnnigcr by the nuisonry-like appearance of the rock. The 
 trees are of diminutive growth. 
 
 From Cape Robert to Table Head, a distaiicc of 19 miles to TMe H,a,l. 
 the sonth-caHtward, tlie const is broken into small bays, witli 
 sliingle beach ami small streams between high her.dlaiids, trr- 
 mniating in ]>erpeiidiculi»r cliffs, the bases of •.«iiuli are waslied 
 by the sea. None oi thus;.' luiys afford good anchorage, Tal)lc 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
M ■■ 
 
 74 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 M 
 
 ^' 
 
 
 De»:riplioH of 
 AnlicoHli, 
 East Coait. 
 
 Fox Point. 
 Fox Bay. 
 
 Stream and 
 lAtke, 
 
 Godin'a House, 
 
 Granicus 
 wrecked. 
 
 Reef Point. 
 
 Maris fcr 
 South iieef. 
 
 North Iieef. 
 
 Fiix Hay .In- 
 choriige. 
 
 From Ihtnct to 
 KhhI t'lifje. 
 
 Anchorage, 
 
 Head is rendered remarkable by the hill from whence it derives 
 its name, and which rises immediately from the summit of 
 the cliffs. 
 
 Fox Point is 4 miles further to the south-eastward, and much 
 lower than Table Head. Fox Bay, which is a little less than 
 2 miles to the southward of Fox Point, is about 1 mile wide 
 and deep, with sandy beach at its head, where there is a con- 
 siderable stream issuing from a small lake. Boats may enter 
 the outlet of this lake at high water. The house and store of 
 M. Godin are on the N.W. side of the head of the Bay, and are 
 the scenes of the dreadful sufferings and melancholy fate of the 
 crew and passengers of the ship Granicus, wrecked on this coast 
 in November, 1 828, and who all perished from want of food, after 
 enduring the most horrible misery before the following 8])ring. 
 
 Rkef Point, of very low limestone, is the southern point of 
 Fox Bay, from which a reef of flat hmestone, covered with only a 
 few feet of water, runs out to the distance of fully 1^ miles. 
 There is a depth of 10 fathoms close off the end of this reef, so 
 that it is extremely dangerous. To be sure of clearing it to the 
 north-eastward a vessel should not be brought nearer by the lead 
 than n or 18 fathoms ; or if any of the land to the north-westward 
 of Table Head be open clear of it, she will pass in safety. 
 
 From the northern point of Fox Bay, which is a cliff of 
 moderate height, another reef runs out more than half a mile to 
 the south-eastward. A point of the southern reef, before men- 
 tioned, extends to the northward in such a way as to overlap the 
 reef off the northern point, leaving an entrance from the north- 
 eastward between the two only a quarter of a mile wide, and 13 
 feet deep at low water. Inside there is a space half a mile wide 
 from 2 fathoms to 2 fathoms, and with 16 feet in the middle over 
 muddy bottom. A wind from E.byN., or E. N.E., blows right 
 into tlie Hay ; but I am told that the sea docs not roll in, but in 
 heavy weather breaks on the reefs and in the entrance. This 
 account I believe to be correct, and that small vessels would be 
 perfectly safe there during the summer months. 
 
 Between Fox Bay and East Ciipe, the coast is of limestone 
 cliflB 100 foct ill height, bold and free from danger. Between 
 Cape Sand-Top and East Cape vesceis may anchor with nil 
 wcKtirly wiiuis in frouj l(i to 20 fathoms, over lino sand, at a 
 distance of 1 mile from tlie shore 
 
ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 
 
 75 
 
 1 
 
 ff of 
 
 lie to 
 
 nien- 
 
 [» the 
 
 lortli- 
 
 nd 13 
 
 wide 
 
 over 
 
 right 
 
 Hit in 
 
 This 
 
 lid 1)0 
 
 ?Btonc 
 twi'cn 
 h nil 
 
 at :i 
 
 41. Tlie tides and currents around Anticosti are so irregular Cmrwi/* an</ 
 that I can add very little to that which has been already stated ,,-^oy^„^,-. 
 (art. 17 and 23.) """'' 
 
 I have seen the stream run along the land for a whole day at the 
 rate of a mile ])er hour, in either direction, without any apparent 
 cause, and altogether regardless of the change of tide. At other 
 times I have found the tides regular in shore. Under these 
 circumstances it is evident that the set of the stream, at any 
 time or place, cannot be reckoned upon with certainty. 
 
 However, in addition to my previous remarks, I may observe 
 that there is usually very little stream in any direction on the 
 north coast from White Cliff south-eastward to Table Head. 
 From the latter to East Cape, on the contrary, there is very 
 frequently a stream from the northward, running at a rate 
 varying from a half to one knot. In one or two instances I 
 have seen this stream commence and end with the flood tide, so 
 that I have been led to muigine a cojuicxion between them ; and, 
 if this be the case, it may arise from the circumstance of its being 
 higli water tuiiiier ^n the north coast, up as high as the Es- 
 quimaux Islands, tiiaii at the cast point of Anticosti. Tiie waters 
 having thus attained a higher level to the northward may, in 
 consequence. How to the southward. On the other hand it nmst be 
 mentioned tliat I have observed this stream during tlie ebb tide. 
 
 It frequently hapjiens that, when this current tV.im the north- 
 ward is running, another from the W. N. W. coni*^!- .long the 
 south coast, in which case they m<'et nt the reef it' Ileulh 
 Point, and cause a great ripple or irregular breaking -a When 
 this has been observed by »i» there has been iimmlly a fresh 
 breeze along the land on either side of the island ; the wind Siirlherly and 
 on the north side of the island being from tlie uuiih or N.byE., iiimhrnreioff 
 whilst that along the south side was W. N. W. I have ^"'' ^"l>*< 
 seen both these winds blowing a snuirt double-reefed topsail 
 bree/e at the same tin\e, and for a whole day together, and vet 
 never meet round the east end of the island, wliieh is nowhere 
 jnoie than '200 feet in iieigiit. Helween the two v '.nds there was 
 It triangular space of eiilm and light balHing airs: the base of this itn^t^eroun 
 triangle extended i.-otn Heath I'oint to East Caiic, and its aiicx '"!/"•"'/»/''"« 
 from .'i to 8 miles to the eastward of the islniid. I mention tiiis «'•■"' 
 cireniiistanee because it would be dangerous for a vvs'h'I to stand 
 into the eulni space helween the two rtinils, wlierc the high eruts 
 
M 
 
 .J; 
 
 76 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Antkosti. sca and constantly changing light airs might leave her at the 
 mercy of the current, in no small danger of being set on the 
 Heath Point Reef. 
 
 I have been for hours endeavouring to get out of this sin 
 gular space, trimming sails to light airs, which did not remain 
 steady to any one point for a minute of time ; and I was finally, 
 in spite of every effort to the contrary, carried over the reef by 
 the current, seeing the rocks, distinctly under the vessel's bottom, 
 but fortunately drawing too little water to strike upon them. 
 
 •12 
 
 
 
GASPE TO CAPE CHATTE. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 77 
 
 :> 
 
 THE SOUTH COAST OF THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWK^iNCE 
 FROM UASPIE TO GREEN ISLAND. 
 
 42. Preliminary Remarks. — 43. Cape Despair and Leander Shoal. Bona* 
 venture Island. Perce Rock. Mai Bay. Point Peter, and Flat Island. 
 —44. 6asp£ Bay. Cape Gasp^, and Flower-pot Rock. Seal Rocks. 
 Douglas Town, and Roadstead. River St. John. — 45. Gasp£ Harbour. 
 The N. W. and S. W. arms. The Basin.— 46. Tides, Currents. Winds, 
 and Soundings. — 47. The South Coast from Cape Gasp6 to Cape 
 Chatte. Cape Rozier. Griffin Cove. Great Fox River. The Great 
 Pond. Magdalen River. Mont Louis River. St. Anne and Chatte 
 Rivers. Cape Chatte. — 48, Cape Chatte to Barnaby Island. River 
 Matan. Little Metis. Grand Aletis. Cock Cove, and Mount Camille. 
 Father Point. Rimousky Road. Barnaby Island. — 49. Barnaby Is- 
 land to the Razade Islets. Cape Arignole ; its Bays and Reef. Old 
 Bic Harbour. Bic and Bicquette Islands: their Reefs and the Alcido 
 Rock. Anchorages at Bic. Tides. Edge of the South Bank.— fiO. The 
 Kazade Islets. Basque Island. Apple Island. Green Island, Light- 
 house, Reef, Anchorage, and Tides. 
 
 42. Pursuing the system which I have hitherto followed of 
 describing the coasts from cast to west, in the order in which 
 they would be seen by a stvanger on a ^oyagc to Canada, I shall 
 commence my remarks ai>d directions for the south coast of the 
 Gulf and Estuary, from the high land of Ga«i)t5 ; beginning with 
 Cape Despair, at the entrance of the Bay of Chaleur, and leaving 
 all to the southward of a line from thence to the island of St. 
 Paid for a separate part of this book ; not only for the sake 
 of a more distinct geographical arrangement and facility of 
 reference, but also because tlie Eouthcrn parts of the Gulf are 
 obviously coiniccted with another line of navigation. 
 
 In the last Chapter I gave full descriptions of the appearance 
 and nature of the coai.ts, l)ccause the infornuition whicli I con- 
 veyed was often new, and because it was necessary to describe 
 clearly thos<c objects which were to be referred to as natural 
 beacons for guiding tlie nuiriuer clear of the nuiMcrous dangers 
 with whicii thoise coasts and it<lunds abound. Uut in thi:^ Chapter 
 
78 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 
 
 
 I shall more freely refer him to the charts for the appearance of 
 the coast, so as to avoid swelling these remarks to an incon- 
 venient size. Besides which, the dangers are few, and for the 
 most part of small importance. 
 
 Cape Despair. 43. Cape Despair, the N. E. point of the Bay of Chaleur, 
 consists of red sandstone cliffs, without beach, and of a moderate 
 height above the sea. 
 
 Leander S/mai, Leander Shoal bears from Cape Despair S. S. E., dis- 
 tant rather more than 1 J miles. It is about a quarter of a mile 
 in diameter, from 4 fathoms to 4 fathomn, and has 16 feet 
 least water on one spot, which, however, it is very difficult to 
 find. It is a rocky shoal, and there is a clear passage between 
 
 Outer Passage, it and the cape. The leading marks are as follow : the line of 
 the White Head, in one with the inner or N.W. end of Perce 
 Rock, passes just outside of the shoal, in 'J fathoms; therefore 
 the whole of Perce Rock, well open to the eastward of the White 
 
 Inner Passage. Head, will lead clear outside of all. From a half to the whole of 
 the Perc^ Rock, shut in behind the White Head, will lead clear 
 betwe«:n the Leander and Cape Despair. 
 
 BoNAVENTURE IsLAND has bold and perpendicular cliffs of 
 red sandstone and conglomerate on all sides excepting the west. 
 These cliffs, in some parts, attain an elevation of 250 feet above 
 ' the sea, and their ledges and fissures arc the habitation of in- 
 
 numerable gannets. From the west side, shoal water extends to 
 the distance of a quarter of a mile, and there is anchorage in 
 15 fathoms between it and White Head; b\it the riding is 
 insecure and heavy in consequence of the swell, which, in bad 
 weather, rolls round the island. The channel between Bona- 
 venture Island and the Perce Rock is about 1^^ miles wide, and 
 free from danger. 
 
 Percf Rock. The Perce Rock is 288 feet high, precipitous all round, and 
 
 bold tr v'^awiiMi It is narrow, and about one-thirdof a mile long 
 in a S. ; 1. direction, being an outlier to the range of ditl's on the 
 S. W. > It; of Mai Bay, i;. is rendered remarkable by two large 
 holes wiiich have been perforated through it by the waves, 
 and through one of which a boat can pass at high water. Between 
 this rock and the White Head is the Biy of Perce, having a reef 
 at tlie <listance of Imlf a mile to the S.W. of the Perce Rock, ami 
 extending out nearly half u mile from tiic shore, as will be seen 
 
GASPE TO CAPE CUATTE. 
 
 79 
 
 Dim- 
 and 
 
 in the chart. Small vessels engaged in the fisheries anchor on 
 cither side of this reef with winds off the land, but it is a dan- 
 gerous place, and not to be recommended for large vessels. 
 
 The town of Perce, principally inhabited by persons engaged 
 in the fisheries, occupies the shores of the Bay, and Mont 
 Perc«5, or, as it is sometimes called, the Table Roulante, rises, 
 immediately from it, to the height of 1230 feet above the sea. 
 This mountain is very remarkable, and can be seen at sea from a 
 distance of 40 miles. A reef connects the Perct? Rock with Point 
 Percrf, and off the N. E. side of the latter small vessels anchor 
 with westerly winds. There is generally a regular tide of flood 
 and ebb, of about a knot, between Bonaventure Island and the 
 mainland : the flood tide running to the S.W. round Cape Despair 
 and up the Bay of Chaleur ; and the ebb in the contrary direc- 
 tion. Two or three miles outside, or to the eastward of Bonaventure 
 Island, the current to the southward out of the St. Lawrence, will 
 often be found running regardless of the tides. (Art. 17.) 
 
 Mal Bat is between 5 and 6 miles wide, by 4 miles deep, 
 and entirely open to the S. E. On its S. W. side, and under the 
 Perc^ Mountains, there are magnificent cliffs 666 feet in perpen- 
 dicular height above the sea. Its N. E. side has low cliffs of 
 sandstone, with occasional beaches. A fine broad sandy beach 
 extends right across the head of the Bay, and incloses a shallow 
 lagoon. A considerable river, and several small streams, dis- 
 charge their waters into the lagoon, which has an outlet in 
 the N. W. corner of the Bay, called the Tickle, admitting 
 boats at high water and in fine weather. There is anchorage all 
 round the shores of Mal Bay, but as a hcav;' sea and thick fog 
 often precede a S. E. gale, and render it dilficult for a vessel to 
 beat out, it cannot be recommended. There is an open cove or 
 small bay on the N.E. side, in which a vessel can be occasionally 
 moored close to the shore, and in 3 fathoms water, but this is 
 of no use for the general purposes of navigation. 
 
 Point Peteh is the N. E. point of Mal Bay, and the south 
 point of Gaspe Bay ; it is of low sandstone, and thickly covered 
 with the white houses of the fishermen. Flat Island lies about 
 400 fatlioms ofl" Point Peter; and is small, low, and of sand- 
 stone. Tlicrc is a clear channel between the islund and tlie 
 l»oint, but no gooil anchorau,e ; for although vessels occasionally 
 
 Pirci' Bay and 
 
 Perce Tnwn, 
 Mont Perce. 
 
 Tides. 
 
 Outside Cur- 
 rent. 
 
 Mal Hay. 
 
 Perci' Moun- 
 tains. 
 
 The Tickle. 
 
 i 
 
 Pcinl Peter. 
 Flat Island, 
 
 'jS'l^mi^^ 
 
80 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Giispa Bay, 
 
 if I 
 
 
 1 
 
 S. fV. side of 
 the Bay. 
 
 Cape Gaspv, 
 
 F/nwerpot 
 Rock. 
 
 anchor to the northward of the island, yet the ground is so 
 foul, that there is great danger of losing an anchor from its 
 hooking the rocks. 
 
 From Flat Island to Cape Gaspe, across the mouth of Gaspt? 
 Bay, the course is N. N. E., *l^ miles. 
 
 44. The admirable bay of GASpfe possesses advantages which 
 may hereafter render it one of the most important places, in a 
 maritime point of view, in these seas. It contains an excellent 
 outer roadstead off Douglas Town ; a harbour at its head, capable 
 of holding a numerous fleet in perfect safety ; and a basin where 
 the largest ships might be hove down and refitted. 
 
 The course up this Bay from Flat Island to the end of Sandy- 
 beach Point, which forms the harbour, is N. by W. h W. rather 
 more than 16 miles. From the Flower-pot Rock to the same 
 point, the course is N. W. J N., and distance nearly 11 J 
 miles. 
 
 From Point Peter the land rises in undulations to the chain of 
 mountains about 5 miles inland from the south-western shore of 
 the Bay. These mountains, in some points, attain an elevation 
 of 1500 feet above the level of the sea, and sweeping round Mai 
 Bay, terminate with the Perce Mountains, before mentioned. The 
 south-western shore of GasptS Bay, from Point Peter to Douglas 
 Town, a distance of 12 miles, presents a succession of precipitous 
 headlands ; the cliffs, of bituminous shale and sandstones, being, in 
 their highest parts, 200 feet above the sea. Shoal water extends 
 nearly a third of u mile from the elite's, and vessels beating should 
 beware of this, since the water slioals .'oo rapidly to allow of much 
 warning by the lead. 
 
 Cape Gaspe is an extremely remarkable headland, of limestoni., 
 having on its N. E. side a uiagnificeut range of clitTs, which rise 
 from the sea to the height of 692 feet. Flower-pot Rock 
 lies close off the S. E. extremity of the Ciipe, anil is also a very 
 remarkable object; the base of it being worn so small by the 
 waves, that it appears astonishing that it can resist their force, or 
 the pressure o"the ic( . It is sometimes called the " Ship's Head," 
 at others the " Old Wtinian," by the ris<liernieu, and is so bold, 
 that vessels may haul round it into the Bay within the distance of 
 a (piarlcr of a mile. Boats may pass between it and the Cupc 
 when there is no isurf. The limestone of Cape Gaspe dips to the 
 
GASPE TO CAPE CHATTE. 
 
 81 
 
 S, W., 80 that the cliffs within the Bay are very much lower than Gas;-t Ruy. 
 those on the outside of the Cape previously mentioned. 
 
 Tiie N. E. side of the Jiav is thiclclv covered witli the houses of -y- ^'- *""' "f 
 
 ^ ■' the Haij. 
 
 the fishermen for a distance of 5 miles within Cape Gaspt? ; the 
 principal fishing estahllshments belonging, as at Perc^, to Jersey 
 merchants. There is an anchorage with good holding ground, but 
 in not less than 17 fathoms, except within a quarter of a mile of 
 the shore, abreast of St. George Cove, Grande Greve, and Little 
 Gaspe. The wurd Cove is, however, inappropriately applied to 
 any part of the shore between Grande Grfeve and the Cape, for 
 though there arc fishing establishments there, there are no coves 
 whatever. This side is bold, and free from danger in every parti 
 with the exception of the Seal Rocks, which are the only detached 
 danger in the Bay. 
 
 The Seal Rocks are 6^ miles w ithin Cape Gasptf, one mile S. E. Sen! Rucks. 
 by S. from Cape Bruit?, and half a mile off-shore. [The length of 
 this lecf from 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms, and in a direction parallel 
 (0 the shore, is half a mde : and its breadth a quarter of a mile. 
 The least Mater is 4 feet, and there are 3i fathoms between it 
 and the sliore. When on the outer edge of the Seal Rocks, Cajie 
 Brul^ is in one with the next cliffy point up the bay, bearing 
 N.35 W. by compass, and this only mark is sufficient for the 
 safety of vessels beating, for the rocks are out of the way with 
 fair winds. 
 
 At Grande Greve, 3^ miles within Cape Gaspe, the ridge Grande Gn've 
 of land dips and narrows, so that there is a portage across it, 
 leading to the settlements at Capo Rozier. On the N.W. side 
 of the portage a range of mountains commences, and they con- 
 tinue along the N.E. side of the bay, and the N.W. arm, till 
 they are lost to view in the interior of the country. Opposite 
 to the basin of Gaspe, they rise to the height of 1.500 feet above 
 the sea. 
 
 Douglas Town is a villat'c of fishermen and farmers, standing i)„i„jias Town. 
 on the rising gnnuid at tiie south side of the entrance of the river 
 St. John : its position in relation to Point Peter has been nlready 
 mentioned. The water is very deep in the outer parts of the bay, 
 Ijcing from 30 to upwards of (50 fathoms, over nuul bottom ; but 
 on approachmir Douglas the depth decreases regularly to the 
 Huchornge. 
 
 1 
 V 
 
82 
 
 GULF OF Sr. LAWRENCE. 
 
 U 
 
 m 
 
 a, 
 
 t 
 
 Cape Haldi 
 mand. 
 
 
 
 111.' 
 
 Gnspt Har- 
 
 
 liiiur. 
 
 if.:' ■ I 
 
 Oaspi Bay. The roadstead off the town of Douglaa is extensi\ , vessels may 
 Di.iijlas lioad. anchor in any part of it, and in any depth from 11 to 6 fathoms, 
 over sand and clay bottom ; but the best berth is in 7 fathome, 
 with the entrance of the River St. John bearini; N, W. by W, li 
 miles. The course and distance from Ca])e Gaspt5 to this an- 
 chorage is N. W. by W. 11 miles. There is, however, no shelter 
 from winds between S. E. by E. and S. S. E. which blow directly 
 into the bay, and roll in a hem y swell. The riding is, neverthe- 
 less, mucli less heavy on such occasions than might be expected; 
 and, as the ground is excellent for holding, a vessel may safely 
 anchor here during the summer months. 
 JVuter. Water may be obtained by ascending the River St. John to the 
 
 River St. John, islands, a distance of 2 miles. In the spring of the year there is 
 often 9 feet of water in the entrance of this river, which is between 
 2 points of sand, as will be seen in the chart: and there are 12 
 feet of water in the narrow channel for some distance within. 
 At the islands the river becomes shallow and rapid. 
 
 Cape Haldimand, 2 miles northward of Douglas, is a bluff 
 point of cliff, and the south-eastern termination of the range 
 of hills which separates the harbour, basin, and S. W. arm, from 
 the valley of the River St. John. 
 
 45. From the N.E. side of Cape Haldimand, Sandy-beach 
 Point rinis out to the northward, and forms the Harbour of 
 Gfispe. It is a very low and narrow point of sand, convex to 
 f^^uaward, on which side the water deepens gradually from high 
 water mark to the depth of 3 fathoms, a distance of nearly half a 
 niile : an the inside it is as bold as a wall. Thus this spit, appa- 
 rently so fraeile, Ijecomes a natural dam or breakwater, upon 
 which the heavy swell, which often rolls into the bay, can produce 
 no effect, expending its strength in the shoal water, before reach- 
 ing the beach. The water deepens immediately outside of 3 
 fathoms, all along the outside of Sandy-beach Point, and also 
 otf its north extremity ; so that it is both dangerous and difficult 
 to beat in or out of the harbour at night ; the lead giving little 
 or no warning. 
 Peninsula. To the northward of Sandy-beach Point, at the distance of 
 
 nearly a mile, is the Peninsula, wliich is a low sand, covered 
 with spruce trees, and it has several whale sheds near its west 
 point. Between the shoal water in the bay to the eastward 
 
 ! 
 
GASPE TO CAPE CHATTE. 
 
 83 
 
 of the Peninsula, and that which extends from the extremity of a^ispe //((»■- 
 Sandy-beach Point, is the narrowest part of the entrance to the "" ' 
 harbour, which is 420 fathoms wide from 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms, 
 and upwards of 1 1 fathoms deep in the centre. 
 
 To run into the Harbour of Gaspe attend to the following direc- Directions for 
 tions and remarks. On the N. E. side of the N. W. arm, there *" ''""^' 
 is a wooded point with low clay cliff, 2f miles above the Penin- 
 sula. This point appears as if it were the extreme on that -ide, 
 when seen over the end of the Pf^uiusula fm a vessel approach- 
 ing the entrance of the harbour, ai ' ullcd Point Panard. 
 Now this point (seen over the Pei ul; ), ii^ one with the 
 inner or north side of the whale sheds he mentioned, is the 
 mark for the northern extreme of tlie t; a vd' Sandy-beach 
 Point. The extremity of the spruce trees is as far witliin the 
 whale sheds, as these last are from the sandy extremity of the 
 Peninsula. On the inner side of Sandy-beach Point, and near 
 to its junction with the mainland, stands a wooden windmill. 
 Keep Point Panard in one with that extremity of the spruce 
 trees on the Peninsula, bearing N. 47 W., until the windmill, 
 just mentioned, comes in one with the west or inner side of 
 the end of Sandy-beach Point, bearing S. J W., when you may 
 haul into the anchorage under the point, or steer for the basin, as 
 may be desired. 
 
 When beating in, tack by the lead from the N. E. side of the B^aiini/ m, 
 bay, and in the board towards Sandy-beach Point, put the helm 
 down the instant the marks for leading in, just given, come 
 in one. 
 
 At night, when neither Sandy-beach Point, nor the Penin- at niijhi. 
 sula can be seen, it becomes rather a difficult affair to tack 
 a vessel into the harbour. The only guide then is the lead. 
 There should be a hand in each cliains, one heaving when the 
 other cries the soundings. Soundings should be first struck on 
 the N. E. side of the bay, about 2 miles outside of the entrance of 
 the harbour, and the edge of the shoal water on that side should 
 be followed, in from 5 to 7 fathoms, until you judge, by the dis- 
 tance run, and the change which takes place in the direction of 
 the edge of the bank which you are running upon, that you are 
 approaching the Peninsula and have passed Sandy-beach Point, 
 and can in consequence venture to haul to the souihward into 
 the anchorage. To form this judgment accurately is the dilfi- 
 
 ci 2 
 

 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 Li|Z8 
 
 US 
 
 ■" ISA 
 
 u lii 
 
 lU 
 
 140 
 
 |25 
 122 
 
 12.0 
 
 
 ||L2g 1 U |i.6 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 6" 
 
 •_ ► 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 .«i^S? 
 
 4^ 
 
 \ 
 
 <^ 
 
 
 33 WIST MAIN STRUT 
 
 WnSTIR.N.Y. I4SI0 
 
 (71*)t79-4»03 
 
 
 ^J^^ 
 
 Ci^ 
 
.i^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ->^* 
 
 ^.^ 
 
 \ 
 
 
 Ci^ 
 
81 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 it, 
 
 W- 
 
 £ 
 
 J*' 
 
 I" 
 
 I ; 
 
 Gaipi Har- cult part of the process, and as to fail in this would prob.i!;!y" 
 cause the loss of the vessel, if the usual heavy swell should be 
 rolling into the bay with S. E. winds, I recommend a vessel rather 
 to trust to her anchors off Douglas Town than to make the attempt* 
 In case of a vessel which has lost her anchors, the directions 
 which I have given may prove of use. Within Sandy-beach 
 Point, that is in the Harbour of Gaspt?, the shelter is complete 
 from all winds ; the bottom is mud, and the depth nowhere 
 exceeds 11^ fathoms. * 
 
 Having now given directions to enable the seaman to take his 
 vessel into a place of perfect security, from which he may proceed 
 to the basin, or to any other part of the harbour, with the as- 
 sistance of the chart, or of a pilot, I shall not swell these remarks 
 by a minute description of the interior of the harbour, which the 
 * chart renders unnecessary, and which is not in any way essential 
 
 to safety. 
 
 N. H'.Arm. I shall merely adtl that the harlwur is divided into the N.W. 
 
 and S. W. arms. The N. W. arm has deep water for nearly 
 3 miles above the Peninsula, and continues navigable for keeled 
 boats about 3 miles further, where tbo principal river of the har- 
 bour enters the arm between Marsh and Meadow Islands. 
 
 s. ir. .Inn: The entrance of the S.W. arm is about 1 80 fathoms wide, and 
 
 between two sandy points, but the navigable channel is contracted 
 by shoals on cither side to about 60 fathoms ; and 5 fathoms of 
 water can be carried in. The deep water part of the S. W. arm, 
 which continues for three-quarters of a mile within the entrance, 
 
 /W/»o/fr(M|)('. is called the Biisin of Gaspt5; it has a depth of from 5 to 9 
 fathom?, over a mud bottom, and is sufBcicntly capacious to hold 
 a very great number of vessels as securely as in a dock. Boats 
 can ascend this arm by a narrow channel, between shoals, about 
 3 miles, a» in the N.W. arm, and the navigation, for all but 
 canoes or flat-bottomrd bouts, is terminated in the same manner, 
 liy shallow channels between Marsh and Meadow Islands; above 
 this part of the river it becomes contracted and rapid, and the water 
 fresh. A nniall rivulet in the bay, on the inside of the south 
 point of the entrance of the basin, is the must convenient watering 
 place in the harbour. Tlie Collector of Customs, ::ml the prin- 
 cipal families, reside on the shores of the basin. Most of these 
 families, as well as those of the N.W. arm and the harbour 
 generally, are furmert<, but soverul of them arc al8<» engaged in 
 
GASPE TO CAPE CHATTE. 
 
 85 
 
 
 probably 
 should be 
 Bsel rather 
 le attempt, 
 directions 
 ndy-beach 
 complete 
 nowhere 
 
 ) take his 
 ly proceed 
 ;h the as- 
 le remarks 
 which the 
 y essential 
 
 the N.W. 
 for nearly 
 for keeled 
 f the har- 
 Is. 
 
 wide, and 
 
 :ontractcd 
 
 athoms of 
 
 \V. arm, 
 
 entrance, 
 
 5 to 9 
 
 us to hold 
 
 Boats 
 
 als, about 
 
 >r uU but 
 
 manner, 
 
 i; above 
 
 the water 
 
 the south 
 
 watering 
 
 the prin- 
 
 t of these 
 
 harbour 
 
 igagcd in 
 
 the whale fishery, which they prosecute in small schooners. The Ga»/ii Fi»h- 
 cod fishery is carried on by the people of the bay outside, for the 
 most part in connexion with the Jersey merchants. The great 
 majority of the fishermen are either from Jersey, or descended 
 from the people of that island whose language they retain. 
 
 46. There are regular but weak streams of flood and ebb in the Tides. 
 entrances of the harbour and basin. For the time of high water, 
 and rise of the tide, see the Table at the end of the book. In the 
 bay the streams of the tides ai-e so irregular, that I can say 
 nothing certain respecting them. They are, however, usually 
 almost imperceptible, excepting near the shores, and even there 
 they are so weak a.^ to be of little or no consequence to a 
 vessel. 
 
 The current down the St. Lawrence runs strongly past Flower- Outside Cat- 
 pot Rock over towards Flat Island, especially in the ebb tide, ' ' 
 which often increases its rate to 2 knots, and this should be re- 
 membered by vessels making the bay with a northerly wind. 
 This current, when it meets the swell which so often prevails from nuikes u mis- 
 the south and S. E., causes a high, short, and breaking sea, all' 
 along the coast from above Cape Rozier to Cape Gasps', and ex- 
 tending across the entrance of Gaspe Buy. When the wind is 
 light, a vessel becomes quite unmanageable in this sea, and it is 
 extremely dangerous to be caught in it, clo»e to t^.e shore, by a 
 light breeze on the land. 
 
 In line summer weather there is often a sea-breeze blowinij, ;«■'(»»('/ /««(/ 
 right up the bay from about 9 a.m. until sunset. At such times 
 there is generally a light land-breeze at night down the army, 
 which often extends for several miles out into the bay. In tho 
 outer part of the bay, however, it will generally be found to be 
 calm, even at times when a fresh breeze is blowing outside Cape 
 Gaxpe and Point Peter. The wind at sea on such occasions is 
 generally from the S. \V. 
 
 The soundings off this part of the coast will be seen in our Suumtwus, 
 charts for the first time ; they will prove of very great use to ves- 
 sels ruiuiiug up in foijgy weather, and hiul they been previously 
 known, might have saved many vessels. We had an oppttrtunity rilhiufun/'ed- 
 af judging of this last 8i«rinij, whin a large ship, full oreuiigrants, '"^ '*""• 
 ran stem on to Whale It<lan<l in Gaspe Bay. She was under all sail 
 before a moderate S. K. wind, in a thick fog, ami steering N. W. : 
 from which it appccir!* tlial ilie nnisl h.ivi luen runuine. in buuiul- 
 
 
 ' J 
 
GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Cape Gatpi' to 
 Cape Challe. 
 
 
 Sumdingt. ings from 20 to 40 fathoms, for at least 4 leagues, and, probably, 
 for 3 hours before she struck. No lead was hove, the existence 
 of the soundings being unknown. The vessel was conceived to 
 be well to the northward, and, consequently, to be steering a safe . 
 course. One cast of the lead would have dispelled this delusion, 
 and might have saved the vessel. Let this be a warning to 
 seamen. 
 RoKhg Vaichen In the prolongation of the line of Cape Gaspt5 nearly, there are 
 "•^^''/'*^"*'"'' several rocky patches frequented by the fishermen. They all 
 lie in the same direction from Flower-pot Rock, S. S.E. IE. 
 The first is a small patch with 8 fathoms least water, the 
 second hes 16 fathoms, and the third 10 fathoms. Their dis- 
 tance from the Rock are seven-eighths, 1 J, and 13 miles respec- 
 tively. There is deep water and irregular soundings between 
 them, and the last mentioned is on the banks of soundings which 
 
 1 have already alluded to, as lying off this coast. 
 47. The bold and high coast between Cape Gaspe and Cape 
 
 Chatte, a distance of 117 miles, will require only a brief notice, 
 as it is free from dangers and destitute of harbours. The 
 mountains everywhere approach the shore, which is steep and 
 rocky, displaying cliffs, often of great height, and without beach. 
 After heavy rains, waterfalls, which are not to be seen at other 
 . times, descend from great heights, and small bays, with sandy 
 beach and rapid streams at their heads, occur occasionally ; yet 
 these features arc not generally so strongly marked as to enable a 
 stranger to make out one part of this coast from another with 
 facility. 
 
 Ciipe liuzier. Cape Roziek, which is nearly 7 miles N. JE. from Cape 
 Gospt?, is low, and of grcywacke and slate rocks. The shoal 
 water docs not extend off it above one-third of a mile, but in the 
 bay to the southwai it, at the distance of 1| miles, there is a 
 
 reef which runs out -u a mile from the shore. Vesiiels may find 
 shelter under Cape Rozier from N. W. winds, but the ground is 
 not very good, and the easterly swell that frequently rolls in, 
 rettders it a dangerous anchorage. There are fishing establish- 
 ments on Cape Rozier, and in its vicinity. 
 
 Cnffin Cuve. Ghikkin Cove and River are 6J miles N. N. W., nearly, from 
 Cupe Rozier, A small bay here affords shelter to the boats uf the 
 fishermen, whose Iioubch will be seen around it. There are from 
 
 2 tu 3 futhuutb of wulcr in this buy, over suady bottom. It is of 
 
GASF£ TO CAPE CHATTE. 
 
 m 
 
 no use to Hhipping, except to obtain supplies of water, wood, and, ^^ , ^, 
 
 occasionally, iregh provisions. 
 
 Great Fox Rivkr is llj miles N.N. W. nearly from Cape Great Fox 
 Rozier. It is a mere brook which enters a small bay about three- 
 quarters of a mile wide, and half a mile deep. Off each point of 
 the bay there are reefs, which diminish the breadth of the 
 entrance to less than a quarter of a mile, and afford shelter to 
 boats, and to very small schooners, in from 2 to 2 jf fathoms, over 
 a bottom of fine dark sand. Round the head of the bay there is a 
 fine sandy beach. Outside the reefs, which extend only a very 
 short distance to seaward, there are !.*>, 18, and 24 fathoms, over 
 a bottom of sand and broken shells, at the distance of a quarter, 
 half, and 1 mile respectively. In fine summer weather a vessel 
 might anchor off this place and obtain water, wood, and supplies 
 of fresh provisions ; but it is otherwise of no use to shipping. 
 Seven families of fishermen and farmers resided here when I 
 visited it in 1829, and had plenty of cattle, sheep, and swine. 
 
 Great Pond is a small creek which affords shelter only to OretU Pond. 
 boats, and will be known by the bouses and stages of the 
 fishermen. It is 16 miles N. W. j^ N. from Great Fox River, and 
 there are no more houses, along the coast, till we arrive at the 
 River St. Ann. 
 
 The next place worthy of notice is the Magdalen River, Afoffdalen 
 which is 24 miles from Great Pond, in a N.W. 4W. direction ^^' 
 nearly. The mouth of this river is on the N. W. side of a 
 sandy bay, and close under Cape Magdalen its N. W. point, which Cap* Mag. 
 is rocky, with cliffs of moderate height, and juts out a very short ' 
 distance from the range of hills which forms the coast line. A 
 reef of rocks, which dry in part at low water, extends from Cape 
 Magdalen, about 200 fathoms to the S. E., parallel to the coast, 
 and shelters the entrance of the river from the northerly winds. 
 The river is 30 yards wide at the entrance, and 1 feet deep at low 
 water; within, for a very short distance, there arc 10 feet over a 
 clean bottom of fine sand. Further up, the river becomes shallow 
 and rapid, winding its way through a romantic valley between the 
 mountains. Thirteen feet of water can be carried into this river 
 at spring tides, su that it is a considerable stream, and is occa- 
 bionally visited by scliooncrs from 30 to 80 tons, which warp in 
 wlien the sea is sniuoth and tlie weather fine. Tlic l)ay is not 
 deep, being merely a gentle curve with a sandy beach for about a 
 
 1 
 
 daten. 
 

 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE, 
 
 H 
 
 ^^1 
 
 J* 
 
 Tides, 
 
 Mnnt-Ijouis 
 River, 
 
 Mottl-Louis 
 Jhf, 
 
 Jnchorage off mile to the S. E. of the rivor. Vessels may anchor here in 1 
 River. ** fathoms, over a bottom of sand, fine gravel, and broken shellsy 
 at the distance of three-quarters of a mile from the sandy beach, 
 and from the N. W. point bearing W. N. W. The shelter is froni 
 W. N. W., round by S. W., and S. to E. S. E., but it is only a fine 
 weather anchorage, which may be of use to vessels wanting wood 
 and water. 
 
 During two occasions, on which I anchored here, I observed a 
 regular alternation of the stream of flood and ebb. The flood ex- 
 tended about 1^ mile from the shore, running 1 knot, and at the 
 line of junction with the almost constant downward current there 
 was a strong ripple. 
 
 MoNT-Louis River is 16 miles further along the coast to 
 the W. N. W. It is a much smaller stream than the Magdalen 
 River, being 20 yards wide at the entrance, and capable only of 
 admitting a small boat at low water. There are 7 feet in the 
 entrance at high water, and for a short distance within. The 
 bmall bay, with sandy beach at its head, into which this river falls, 
 is a mile wide, and nearly three-quarters of a mile deep. Ves- 
 sels may anchor in it during fine weather, in from 8 to 16 fathoms, 
 mud bottom, nearer the west than the east side. The holding 
 ground is excellent ; but since a vessel ought not to be more than 
 300 fathoms distant from the west side of the bay, there is not 
 much room to work out, and therefore it would be dangerous for 
 a large vessel to be caught there by a wind on the land. Small 
 vessels, or ships having occasion to stop for a few hours for wood 
 or water, may safely anchor there in fine weather, and will find 
 shelter in all winds, from VV. N. W. round by S to E. S. E. Mont- 
 Louis River may be thus recognized. In a vessel off this part of 
 the coast, four well marked openings will be seen in the high land 
 in a space of 10 miles. The eastern ojiening is Grnudc Matte 
 River, the next westward is Mont-Louis River, and the two others 
 Claude and Pierre Rivers, None of them affords good anchorage 
 excc))ting Mont Louis. On niiproncliing near the shure, an atten- 
 tion to the cliffV, shown in the chart, will point out Mont-Louis 
 River beyond a doubt. 
 Cape Si, Anne. Them is notliing worthy of remark for 'J'j miles further west- 
 ward to Cape St. Anne, after wliicli the numntai.is hcgin to recede 
 a little from the shore, and to tliininisli in height. Theie is, 
 however, another range of mountain!* in the rear of the coast, us will 
 
 Four openitiija 
 HI the Iwid, 
 
GASPE TO CAPE CHATTE. 
 
 89 
 
 be seen in the chart. These are the St. Anue Mountain?, which si. jnne ' < 
 
 can be seen from a distance of 80 or 90 miles, under favourable <"'"'""*• ,^._( 
 
 circumstances ; and their highest peak, which is about 14 miles 
 
 behind Cape Chatte, is 3970 feet in height above the sea. 
 
 These are therefore the highest mountains in British North 
 
 America. 
 
 St, Anne River, which is 6 miles west of the high cape of St. /inne 
 the same name, and 10 miles east of Cape Chatte, can be 
 entered by small schooners at high water. It flows into the 
 sea through the sandy beach of a bay which affords very indif- 
 ferent anchorage, the depth of water being too great, excepting at 
 a less distance from the shore than would be considered prudent 
 for any but small vessels. Scyeral families reside here, from 
 whom supplies of provisions can in general be obtained, and also 
 from those at Cape Chatte River. 
 
 Chatte River, 2\ miles eastward of Cape Chatte, is much Chuiie lUver. 
 smaller than the River St. Anne, and enters a much smaller 
 sandy bay, affording no anchorage for ships. The east point of ••' 
 
 this bay, 2 miles eastward of the river, is a low spit with a reef off Heef. 
 it half a mile. Small coasting schooners occasionally anchor 
 under it in westerly winds. 
 
 Cape Chatte, when seen from the eastward or westward, so Cape ckuiie. 
 that it appears as the extreme point, can easily l)e distinguished, 
 being a round hill separated from, but of less lieight than the laud 
 behind it. 
 
 The long line of coast, which has formed the subject of this Foyg ilaiiyeiuu$ 
 article, and been found so free from danger, is nevertheless to be ,.o„,"* 
 guarded against in dark foggy nights, since the water is, c\ cry- 
 where along it, too dee\) to all'ord sufficient warning by the lead 
 for the safety of vesEcls. The t-hore along its whole extent, 
 excepting in some of the bays, is of highly inclined slate and 
 greywackc rocks, which wo\ild cut through a vessel's bottom in a 
 very slioit time ; and such is the impracticable nature of the 
 country, that those who miglit escape to bhorc would run great 
 risk of perishing from want l^-forc they could reach a settlement. 
 
 48. Tlic south coast of the Estuary from Cupc Chatte to Matau, Cuiie Chutte to* 
 is straight, bold, and of the same rocks as that which has Iweii ' "'""' 
 described in the lust article. Althoiigh not a higli coast, it is 
 btill (if consideiablu deviitioii above tlu' uiii, and liic St. Anne 
 Mountaiuii coiiliuuc in llic rear of il, at tla' dibtaucu of about .'> 
 
 •'■'■] 
 
ti' ' 
 
 90 
 
 Pap» of MatoH, 
 
 Capuchin Cove. 
 
 SeUlemenl* 
 commence. 
 
 Malan River. 
 
 Tidei. 
 
 Morning Tide* 
 higher than the 
 Evening Tidei. 
 
 Entrance of 
 Matau River. 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 * 
 
 leagues, to their south-westera termination, which is 15 miles 
 south of Cape Balance, the last being 25 miles westward of Cape 
 Chatte. Several detached hills will he seen further to the west- 
 ward, which are also at a considerable distance from the coast. 
 Two of these have been named the Paps of Matan, though they 
 can with difficulty be made out when bearing S. W. ; on any other 
 bearing it is still less easy to distinguish them, but they are of 
 no use except to enable a vessel, obtaining a sight of the land, 
 to judge how far she is up the Estuary. 
 
 Capuchin Cove, and another cove on the west side of Cape 
 Michaux, afford shelter to boats. Settlements commence at Little 
 Matan, a small stream 3 miles eastward of the River Matan. 
 
 The River Matan is a fine stream 33 miles W. }^ S. from 
 Cape Chatte. It is reported to have its source in a lake of con- 
 siderable dimensions, about 60 miles, following the stream, 
 inland. The depth of water over the bar is usually 4 feet at low 
 water, and 15 at high water spring tides. The rise of the tides 
 is, however, very irregular, and although there is often 12 feet 
 at high water neap tides, yet I have seen as little as 10 feet. 
 The depth of water seems to depend so much upon the winds 
 which prevail in the Estuary, that it is impossible to calculate it 
 at any time exactly. In the last days of July the morning tides 
 rose 2 and 3 feet higher than the evening tides of the same day. 
 Easterly winds were observed to cause high tides, and westerly 
 winds the contrary. 
 
 The channel is very narrow, and there are several large boulder 
 stones in it, lying on the sand, which diminish the depth 2 
 feet, and are extremely dangerous when there is any swell. The 
 bar is continually shifting from the effects of gales of wind, so that 
 I can give no directions for sailing in. There are pilots residing 
 here, and no vessel should attempt the entrance without one. 
 The bar when I was there ran out in a circular form from the 
 east point of entrance, and was met so nearly by another point of 
 sand, running out from the small isolated cliff on the west point 
 of entrance, as to leave only a very narrow channel. The bar 
 dried at low water, and no part of it extended more than 300 
 fathoms outside the entrance of the river. Inside the bar the 
 entrance, between two sandy points, is not more than 30 fathoms 
 wide, and a very rapid current runs out during the ebb tide. 
 There is not room enough for a vessel to lie safely afloat inside, 
 
 i 
 
CAPE CHATTE TO BIC. 
 
 91 
 
 but, nevertheless, considered as a tide harbour, it is a useful place 
 to coasting schooners, which ground at half tide on a good bottom of 
 mud and stones. To a vessel which had lost her anchors, or which 
 had received injury, this river would afford a place of refuge in 
 which she could be safely repaired and retitted. The sandy beach 
 extends about a third of a mile to the eastward of the entrance, 
 and incloses a large space dry at low water, with the exception of 
 the narrow and rapid channel of the river which is full of stones. 
 The tide ascends about a mile, to a rapid over a ledge of rocks, 
 above which the stream is swift, shallow, and navigable for canoes, 
 to the lake before mentioned. 
 
 Outside the bar there is anchorage in 5 fathoms half a mileo£f- Ouitr 
 shore, and in 10 fathoms a little further out, the bottom being of '*'"'*'**W^- 
 sand and clay. 
 
 Supplies of provisions can usually be obtained at this river; Supp/iei. 
 and it will be easily made out from a vecsel, since the entrance 
 shows plainly. The clifiy mound on the west side of the entrance, 
 and the buildings, will also serve to point it out. 
 
 Matan is the name of a seignory containing about 500 inha- JUatan Seig- 
 bitants, most of whom live by the combined means of fishing, '""^^' 
 farming, and piloting. The soil is good, and gives good crops 
 of wheat and other grain, excepting in bad seasons, which have 
 been very frequent of late years, and in which the crops some- 
 times totally fail. 
 
 The coast from Matan to Metis is low, rocky, vroodtd, un- Maim to Metu, 
 broken, and may be approached with care by the lead, the bank 
 of soundings becoming gradually wider as we proceed lv 'he 
 westward. (Art. 25.) 
 
 Little Metis Bay is 23 miles W. | S. nearly, from Matan. LiiUe MeiU 
 It is small and divided into two rocky coves, which are open to ''^' 
 the eastward and dry at low water. 
 
 Little Metis River, a small stream, is at the head of the l*ftl* MttU 
 southern cove. There r.re several buildings, and a fishing esta- ""'^* 
 blishraent on Metis Point, the outer point of the bay. A reef 
 which is very bold on its north side, runs out from this point 
 nearly three-quarters of a mile to the eastward, and enables small 
 vessels to remain at anchor, in 3 fathoms, over mud bottom, with 
 the wind as fur to the northward as N. W. Some of its rocks are 
 always above water. In this berth vessels lie midway between 
 the eastern cud of the reef, and a large Round Rock near the 
 
 .*,■ 
 
 ■iy 'i; 
 
ill 
 
 92 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 m: 
 
 i I 
 
 Gulf An- 
 vhoragi: 
 
 Round Rock. 
 
 Grand Metis 
 Bay. 
 
 Coek Cove. 
 
 shore on the S. E. side of the bay. Larger vessels may anchor 
 further out in 5 or 6 fathoms of water, but not in the stream of 
 the reef, where the ground is foul and rocky. 
 
 The east end of the reef may be passed by the lead in 4 fathoms, 
 or with the Round Rock bearing S. £., but large vessels had 
 better not bring it to bear to the eastward of S. S. E. This rock, 
 which is about IJ miles E. S.E. from the reef off the outer point 
 of the Bay, will serve to point out Little Metis to strangers. It 
 cannot be mistaken for Grand Metis with our charts, since there 
 is no resemblance in the shapes of the bays. Neither place can 
 be easily made out from a greater distance than 5 or 6 miles, 
 because the points are very low. 
 
 Grand Metis Bay is separated from Little Metis by Metis 
 Point. Grand Metis River, a small stream 5 miles westward of 
 Little Metis, is near the west end of the Bay, and is nearly dry 
 outside of the very narrow entrance at low water. The Bay is 
 rather more than 3 miles wide, and three-quarters of a mile deep ; 
 but it is all shoal. Small vessels may anchor in 3^ or 4 fathoms, 
 under its east point, close to the edge of the shoal water, and in 
 tolerable shelter from winds along the coast, but there is no shelter 
 for shipping. Nevertheless vessels lie here all the summer months 
 for the purpose of taking in timber. They are usually moored in 
 6 fathoms, at low water, over mud bottom, and with the river 
 bearing about S. S.W., distant IJ miles. In this position they are 
 half a mile from the 3 fathoms edge of the shoal water which extends 
 from the shore ; and as they are outside of the line joining the 
 points of the Bay, they are exposed to the prevailing winds along 
 the coast, and must ride very heavily at times. There is, how- 
 ever, seldom much sea with these winds so close in shore, and the 
 northerly winds seldom blow strong until September. After the 
 commencement of that month, I consider this a dangerous 
 anchorage, but at other times, and in fine weather, vessels may 
 safely anchor anywhere off the Bay in from 6 to 12 fathoms : 
 the bottom being everywhere good, and plenty of room to get 
 under weigh. 
 
 Cock Cove affords good anchorngc for schooners, in .3 fathoms 
 at low water, well sheltered from the winds along the coast. The 
 summit of Mount Cninille, already mentioned (art. 28), bcnrs 
 from the west point of Cock Cove S. E. by S. 8 miles, and will 
 serve to point out its positiui to a stranger. 
 
CAPE t'HATTE TO RIC. 
 
 93 
 
 lay anchor 
 I stream of 
 
 1 4 fathoms, 
 vessels had 
 This rock, 
 outer point 
 angers. It 
 since there 
 r place can 
 or 6 miles, 
 
 is by Metis 
 /vestward of 
 I nearly dry 
 riie Bay is 
 
 1 mile deep ; 
 r 4 fathoms, 
 iter, and in 
 is no shelter 
 mer months 
 jT moored in 
 ;h the river 
 ion they are 
 lich extends 
 joining the 
 winds along 
 ire is, how- 
 ore, and the 
 
 After the 
 
 dangerous 
 
 vessels may 
 
 2 fathoms : 
 •com to get 
 
 n 3 fathoms 
 coast. The 
 ,28), bears 
 s, and will 
 
 It may be remarked here, that large vessels may anchor ,'in Anchorage alt 
 fine weather, all along the coast from Metis to Green Island. cS. 
 
 Father Point bears from the west point of Grand Metis Bay 
 W. by S. I S., 14 J miles. It is low, covered with houses, and Father Puint, 
 the regular rendezvous of the pilots, many of whom reside Piloit. 
 there. 
 
 The eastern point of Barnaby Island is 3 miles W. by S. from 
 Father Point, and between them is the anchorage or Road of Rimomky 
 Rimousky, where vessels ride throughout the summer to take 
 in cargoes of lumber. They lie moored in 4 or .5 fathoms at low 
 water, with excellent holding ground, and sheltered from W. by N. 
 round by S. to E. N.E. The best sheltered berth is with the 
 eastern point of Barnaby Island bearing W. by N., Rimousky 
 church S. S. W. J W., and Father Point E. N. E. : the depth will 
 then be 4 fathoms at low water spring tides over mud bottom. 
 Small vessels may anchor further to the westward in 3 fathoms at 
 low water, with the east end of the rocks, off the eastern point of 
 Barnaby Island, bearing N. W. by W., and distant a quarter of a 
 mile. The reef does not extend above a quarter of a mile off the 
 eastern point of Barnaby Island, and may be passed by the lead 
 in 4 fathoms. 
 
 Barnaby Island is 3J miles long, and very narrow : it is of Bartuiby 
 slate and greywacke rocks, like all the coast and islands on this * ""' * 
 side of the Estuary. It is low, wooded, and uninhabited. In 
 the interior of the Island there is a long pond of fresh, but not 
 good water, which last must be obtained from the River of 
 Rimousky. 
 
 The channel between the Island and Rimousky is dry at low 
 water. From 7 to 12 feet can be carried through it at high 
 water, according as it is nciip or spring tide, but at no time 
 should a vessel drawing more than 8 feet attempt this passage, 
 since there are rocks and large stones here and there, and also 
 fish stakes. 
 
 The church of Rimousky to the eastward of the river, and Rimoutky 
 many houses, will be seen directly opposite the Island. Church, 
 
 Off the outside of Barnaby Island there is a 3 fathom shoal, Barnaby Shoo/. 
 extending out fully two-thirds of a mile, and the reef off its 
 western end runs out in the direction of the island more than 
 three-quaiters of a mile. Between the western end of Barnaby 
 Island and the mainland there is a large high and Bare Rock, 
 
 I:-. 
 
 *' 
 S' 
 
m 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Btaringt from 
 
 Bamehif 
 
 Ii/tmd. 
 
 Ha-Ha Bag. 
 
 Bantabf Road, which is distRnt from the island about two-thirds of a mile. 
 Midway between the western points of the island and Bare Rock, 
 bearing north and south from each other, there are 2 fathoms at 
 low water, in Bamaby Road, over muddy bottom, affording good 
 anchorage to small vessels in all but westerly winds. Rimousky 
 church in one with the eastern end of the rock will lead over the 
 tail of the reef off the west end of Barnaby, and into this 
 anchorage. 
 
 49. From the eastern point of Bamaby Island to the eastern 
 point of Bicquette Island the course is west, and distance 14^ 
 miles. From the western point of Barnaby Island to the eastern 
 end of the S. E. reef off the island of Bic the course is also west, 
 and distance 8f miles. From the western point of Barnaby 
 Island' to the N. W. extremity of Cape Arignole the course is 
 W. by S. iS., and distance 10 miles. 
 
 There are bays on either side of Cape Arignole, but they dry 
 at low water. The bay on the west side of the Cape is named 
 Ha-Ha Bay. With easterly winds, there is excellent anchorage 
 off its entrance in 4 fathoms at low water, and further in fur small 
 vessels in 3 fathoms ; but it is seldom used, because the equally 
 safe and more roomy anchorage under Bic is justly preferred. 
 
 Arignole Reef consists of two rocks lying across the mouth of 
 the bay, on the east side of the Cape. The west end of the 
 western rock of this reef is always above water, and bears south 
 2| miles from the east end of the S. E. reef of Bic, and £. IN. 
 li miles, from the N. W. extremity of Cape Arignole j but it is 
 distant only a quarter of a mile from the rocks off the east side 
 of the Cape. This western rock is a quarter of a mile long, and 
 very narrow. The eastern rock is small, covered in high tides, 
 and one-third of a mile east from the other. These two rocks are 
 very bold to the northward, and there are 5 or 6 fathoms of water 
 between them. Vessels may pass between them and the main 
 by keeping close to them, but can seldom have occasion to try 
 so dangerous a passage. 
 
 The west point of Old Bic Harbour bears E .S. E. J E., 1 mile 
 from the east end of the reef. This harbour, as it is called, dries 
 
 Bieoque Rocks, at low water, and has many rocks in it. Two round and high 
 rocky islets, called the Bicoques, will be seen extending to the 
 westward of its east point, and diminishing the bread*^^h of tlic 
 entrance to two-thirds of tt mile. '• ' 
 
 Arignole Reef. 
 
 Old Bio Har- 
 bour. 
 
CAPE CHATTE TO BIC. 
 
 95 
 
 of a mile. 
 Bare Rock, 
 
 fathoms at 
 
 arding good 
 
 Rimousky 
 
 3ad over the 
 
 d into thii 
 
 the eastern 
 listance 14| 
 the eastern 
 is also west, 
 of Barnaby 
 iie course is 
 
 but they dry 
 ipe is named 
 nt anchorage 
 ir in for small 
 e the equally 
 preferred, 
 the mouth of 
 
 end of the 
 d bears south 
 
 and E. iN. 
 lole ; but it is 
 
 the east side 
 mile long, and 
 in high tides, ^ 
 two rocks are 
 boms of water 
 and the main 
 )Cca8ion to try 
 
 JE., 1 mile 
 is called, dries 
 (und and high 
 tending to the 
 )read»h of the 
 
 Midway between these rocky islets and the west point of the Oid Bio Road. 
 harbour small vessels may anchor in Old Bic Road in 3 fathoms 
 at low water, with muddy bottom, and with the point bearing 
 west, distant one-third of a mile. To run ii^ to this anchorage 
 from the N. W., keep the westernmost of the two rocky islets its 
 own breadth open to the eastward of the west point of the har- 
 bour, and you will clear the eastern rock of the Cape Arignole 
 reef, which is the only danger in the way. j 
 
 The summit of the high land southward of Cape Arignole^ iSgh iand of 
 otherwise called the high land of Bic, 1234 feet above the sea ^"'' 
 at high water, bears S. W. by S. from the N. W. extremity of 
 the Cape, distant nearly 2^ miles. The hills in this neighbour- 
 hood are composed of high and narrow ridges of grey wacke rocks, 
 parallel to the coast, and to each other, and declining gradually 
 in elevation on either side of the summit just mentioned. When 
 these ridges are seen nearly end on, from either up or down the 
 Estuary, they present an outline so remarkable that this land can 
 be made out from very great distances. 
 
 ' Bic Island lies directly o£P Cape Arignole, at the distance Bic hUmd. 
 of nearly 2i miles, and is about 3 miles long, without including 
 the reefs, in a direction parallel to the coast, and 1 mile broad. 
 Its shores are of slate rocks ; it is thickly wooded, uninhabited, 
 «nd in height does not exceed 150 feet above the sea. 
 
 Supplies of -water can only be obtained from the bay between Water, 
 the east and S. E. points of the island, and not always there in 
 dry seasons. But vessels may supply themselves from the river 
 in the S. E. corner of Old Bic Harbour, or from a stream on the 
 west side of a small bay of the mainland, 4 miles westward of 
 Cape Arignole. 
 
 BicQUBTTE Island^ three-quarters of a mile to the northward BicqueUe 
 of Bic, is half a mile long, by a quarter of a mile broad, and about '*'*"•* 
 100 feet high above the sea. Several large rocks above water 
 extend one-third of a mile to the east and S. E. of the island, 
 and diminish the breadth of the channel between it and Bic to 
 little more than half a mile. Off the west end of Bicquette, in Weit Reef. 
 a S. W. by W. J W. direction, there are two large rocks always 
 above water, and a third which covers at high water ; these lie 
 nearly in a line, and extend to the distance of a mile from the 
 island. 
 
 The N. W. Reef op Bicquette is the greatest danger, lying if. IV. Reef. 
 
 \ i 
 
is.f, 
 
 
 M 
 
 ■;«»- 
 
 .0 
 
 e 
 
 :-r 
 
 St' 
 
 : n 
 
 M 
 
 If 
 r 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 liicquetle 
 
 
 due west from the west end of the island, and at the distance of 
 Ij miles. The cross mark for it is the west end of Bic in one 
 with the N. W. point of Ha-Ha Bay, bearing S. S. E. J E. ; 
 but this last named point can seldom be plainly made out, in 
 Clearing Mark, consequence of the high land behind it. In approaching this 
 reef from the westward, the north extremity of Cape Arignole 
 should not be shut in behind the west point of Bic. This reef is 
 composed of two rocks about 150 fathoms long, and which just 
 cover at high water : both it and Bicquette are very bold to the 
 northward (art. 25). There is deep water all along the line 
 from the north side of Bicquette to this reef, and also between 
 the latter and the rocks to the S. E. of it, but these are danger- 
 ous passages, which ought not to be generally tried, though it is 
 useful to know of their existence in case of emergency. 
 
 I must apply the same remarks to Bicquette Channel, between 
 Bic and that island, which was not known before this survey : 
 there are no leading marks for running through, but it may easily 
 be done with the assistance of our charts in case of neceisity. 
 The south-western reef off Bicquette is most in the way, and there 
 are also two small round rocks on the Bic side, 200 fathoms 
 off shore, and bearing nearly south from the west end of Bic- 
 quette. To avoid the first of these dangers, do not bring the 
 south extremity of the rocks off the S. E. side of Bicquette to 
 bear to the eastward of E. N. E. ^E. ; and if you do not bring 
 tlie north side of Bic, near its east end, to bear to the northward 
 of E. i^N., you will clear the second, which, however, always 
 shows, excepting in very high tides. These directions are, how- 
 ever, insufficient without the chart, which must be carefully con- 
 sulted, fur this is an intricate and dangerous place. The best 
 time to run through is at low water, when all the dangers show, 
 and a vessel, keeping in mid-channel between tlieni, will have 
 from 9^ to 5 fathoms, with irrrgultir soundings and foul ground 
 occasionally. 
 
 Bic has another set of dangers of its own. The first of those 
 is the S. E. Reef, which extends out from the S. E. jwint of the 
 island to the distance of nearly H miles in an E. by S. direction. 
 The outer part of this reef is formed of three rocks lying in a 
 straight line, and always above water. The two eustcrmost are tlic 
 largest, and arc nearly joined togttlicr, whilst the westermost of the 
 three is detached, so at* to leuvu a cliaunel through the reef 150 
 
 IHc h/iinil. 
 S. K. lirvf. 
 
 Narrow .1 
 falhiimi 
 
CAPE CHATTE TO BIC. 
 
 97 
 
 distance of 
 
 Bic in one 
 S.E.JE.; 
 aAe out, in 
 laching this 
 pe Arignole 
 This reef is 
 i which just 
 
 bold to the 
 ng the line 
 also between 
 
 are danger- 
 
 though it is 
 
 icy. 
 
 inel, between 
 this survey : 
 it may easily 
 of necessity, 
 ray, and there 
 200 fathoms 
 end of Bic- 
 lot bring the 
 Bicquette to 
 do not bring 
 ic northward 
 vever, always 
 ins are, how- 
 carefuUy con- 
 The best 
 angers show, 
 ;ni, will have 
 il foul groimd 
 
 first of those 
 I. point of the 
 y S. direction. 
 L'ks lying in a 
 crmost are tl>e 
 
 termost of the 
 \ the reef IjO 
 
 e 
 
 fathoms wide, and 5 fathoms deep. Large vessels should not Bic ttioHd, 
 attempt to papn between these rocks, or between them and Bic, *' •'' 
 for the tides are rendered irregular by the uneven bottom, and 
 there is much foul ground about, as will be seen by the chart. 
 Small schooners can pass on either side of the western rock, 
 keeping close to it, if they pa?s to the westward. The shoal water 
 does not extend beyond a cable's length from the east end of the 
 S. E. reef : the rocks above water are bold, both on their north 
 and south sides. The inner part of the reef, extending under 
 water from the S. E. point of Bic, reaches further to the south- 
 ward than the 'direction of the rocks, and must be avoided by not 
 bringing the south side of Bic to bear to the southward of 
 W. by S. 
 
 The N. E. reef of Bic is a small patch of black rocks, which ■'V. E. Reef of 
 
 Bic, 
 shows at low water, lying N. E. by E. 400 fathoms from the 
 
 N. E. poini of the isiandj and N. W. ^W. rather more than 
 
 one mile from the east end of the S. E. reef. To clear this reef to Clearing Mark. 
 
 the eastward, keep both the rocky islets on the east side of Old 
 
 Bic Harbour open to the eastward of the S. E. reef, bearing 
 
 nothing to the eastward of S. E. by S. 
 
 The West Grounds of Bic are an extenpive flat of slate, which ^^- Gwnwrfi of 
 
 liiv. 
 
 partly dries at low water. The outer point of these Grounds, in 
 3 fathoms, bears W. J S. from the west point of the island, distant 
 nearly three-quarters of a mile ; and they may be approached 
 by the lead, as nearly as 5 fathoms, at low water. 
 
 The Alcidb Rock has no connexion with Bic, but as it is Alddt Rock, 
 extremely dangerous, and lies much in the way of vessels passing 
 through the Bic Channel, between that island and the main land, 
 
 1 shall notice it here. It is a small rock, about 6 feet long, and 
 
 2 wide, having 4 feet water on it at low water, and standing on a 
 small rocky shoal, 100 fathoms long, i^arallcl to the coast, and 
 about half as wide. " This shoal is so bold all round that there is 
 no warning whatever by the lead. It lies due S. W. from the 
 west point of Bic, at the distance of nearly 3| miles. From the 
 N. W. extremity of Cape Arignole it bears W. i S., distant 5 miles ; 
 and it is rather more than \\ miles distant from the shore to 
 the southward. There is no close leading mark for clearing this 
 Rock, but if Mount Camillc be not entirely shut in behind Cajic 
 Arignole, vessels will l)c in no danger from it. 
 
 The above mark, together with the bearings, which I have Bw VAuHiut. 
 
 H 
 
 r 
 
if 
 
 Ic. 
 
 r 
 
 J" 
 
 K. 
 C 
 
 if! 
 
 Ill' 
 
 'Ik I 
 
 98 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 ' :i'», 
 
 ific Channel, given, will be a sufficient guide to vessels beating through 
 between Bic and the main, in their board to the southward. 
 In their board to the northward, towards the West Grounds of 
 Bic, vessels must not shut in the S. E. reef behind the south 
 side of Bic. All along the south side of Bic, and the S. E. 
 reef, they may safely stand in to 7 fathoms at low water, not, 
 however, without remembering what I have said respecting 
 the inner part of the latter. Cape Arignole and its reef are quite 
 bold to the northward, and further to the eastward, between Old 
 Bic Harbour and Barnaby Island, vessels may safely stand in 
 to 4^ fathoms at low water : the ground is all clean sand and 
 mud bottom, with excellent anchorage in every part. 
 
 With this full description of the dangers around Bic and Bic- 
 quette, and the assistance of our charts, vessels will have no 
 difficulty in passing on either side of these islands in clear 
 weather : and as I have already given directions for running past 
 Bicquette at night, or in foggy weather (art. 25), it therefore only 
 remains to point out the best places for anchoring, and to give 
 directions for approaching them. 
 /inchortige off There is excellent anchorage under either end of Bic, and also 
 mrniieii infoggy bctwccn it and the main land, according to the wind ; and vessels, 
 u'fniher. which may be met by an easterly wind, had better anchor 
 
 than attempt to beat down the Estuary in the long and foggy 
 nights of the fall of the year. More shipwrecks have arisen in 
 consequence of vessels obstinately endeavouring to beat down 
 against an easterly gale, with its accompanying fog, than from 
 any other cause, and yet all that they can gain by such a course 
 might be run in a few hours of fair wind. 
 nircciknifor A vessel being to the north-eastward of Bic, with the first of 
 Uw Amiioruge. ^^ easterly gale, should bear up before the weather becomes 
 thick, and steer for Bic Channel. The S. E. reef will be 
 seen, and vessels may puss a quarter of a mile to the south- 
 ward of it, or by the lead, coming no nearer to it and the south 
 side of Bic than 1 fathoms at low water. Having run to 
 the westward \\ miles past the west end of Bic, haul to the 
 northward with the lead going, and taking care not to api)roach the 
 West Grounds nearer than G fathoms at low water, until the south 
 side of Bic bears E. \ N., and the north side N. E, by E. With 
 these bearings uiiclior with 7 fallionis at low water, over miiddy 
 .^ l)()ttoni. In this jiositioii you will have the S. E. reef shut in 
 
CAPE CHATTE TO BIC. 
 
 99 
 
 ig through 
 southward. 
 Grounds of 
 1 the south 
 [1 the S. E. 
 water, not, 
 . respecting 
 eef are quite 
 between Old 
 Fely stand in 
 in sand and 
 
 Bic and Bic- 
 will have no 
 inds in clear 
 • running past 
 therefore only 
 5, and to give 
 
 Bic, and also 
 i ; and vessels, 
 
 better anchor 
 ong and foggy 
 have arisen in 
 
 to beat down 
 fog, than from 
 J such a course 
 
 vith the first of 
 cttthcr becomes 
 1. reef will he 
 e to the south- 
 t and the south 
 Having run to 
 Jic, haul to the 
 t to approach the 
 •, until the south 
 E. by E. With 
 iter, over muddy 
 E. reef shut in 
 
 behind the south side of Bic : Bicquette and its rocks will be B,c Anchorage. 
 all open to the N. W. of Bic : the N. W. reef of Bicquette will 
 bear N. ^£., rather more than 1^ miles : you will be fully half 
 a mile to the westward of the 3 fathom mark on the outer ex- 
 tremity of the west reef of Bic, and consequently will have plenty 
 of room to get under weigh with the first of the westerly wind, 
 when you should cast to the southward and run through Bic 
 Channel to the eastward. A wind from the southward, to- 
 gether with the set of the ebb tide, might perhaps render it 
 preferable to run out to the northward, round the N. W. reef of 
 Bicquette ; in which case do not go to the eastward into less than 
 8 fathoms, at low water, nor shut in the north extremity of Cape 
 Arignole behind the west point of Bic. 
 
 If it be night, and yet not so dark but that the principal Taking Bit; 
 features of the land can be made out, although it might hcmglu. 
 dangerous to attempt to make the low S. E. reef, another mode 
 of proceeding may be adopted, under the circumstances above 
 contemplated, and supposing the position of the vessel to be 
 known. In that case, run in to the southward, towards the main 
 land, half way between Barnaby Island and Bic, until you shoal to 
 5 fathoms, at low water ; then steer west by compass, but corrected 
 for deviation^ and you will deepen your water gradually. When 
 you arrive at 9 fathoms you will be past Old Bic, and will pro- 
 l>ably see the opening of that harbour to the southward of you. 
 When you arrive at 11 or 12 fathoms, you will be past the Cape 
 Arignole Reef, and will soon begin to shoal again on the Bic side 
 of the channel. If it be too dark to sec the island, go no nearer 
 than 7 fathoms. When you judge yourself far enough to the 
 westward, haul gradually to the northward into the stream of the 
 island, and anchor as near the position previously pointed out as 
 you can. It is not, however, necessary that you should be in 
 that position, although it has been recommended as the best 
 sheltered; for you may anchor, and will ride easily, anywhere 
 under and within 3 miles of the island, in 8, 9, or 10 fathoms at 
 low water ; and large and heavy ships would, perhaps, wish to 
 lie further off than I have recommended. 
 
 In the case of a vessel to the nortliward of Bic, and wisliing .Ipprnm-hntf 
 to run to the sanie anchorage from the N. W., so as to pass to />''„', X'"''''^' 
 the westward of the N. W. reef of Bicquette, run to the west- noii/iumJ. 
 ward ; going no nearer to Bic(iuettc and the N. W. reef than 
 
 n 2 
 
i 
 
 100 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 '■« 
 
 ir 
 c 
 
 n 
 
 r 
 
 
 
 'I 
 
 Taking Bio 
 Anchorage in 
 thick weather. 
 
 Bic Eaitem 
 
 Anchorage 
 with Westerly 
 windi. 
 
 Anchorage in 
 Hie Channel 
 wlh Northerly 
 U'imh. 
 
 Tiile» near liie 
 Island. 
 
 30 fathoms, till the extremity of Cape Arignole becomes open to 
 the S. W. of Bic, bearing S. E. j^ E. : then haul to the southward, 
 going no nearer to the reefs of Bicquette than 8 fathoms, and 
 anchor as before directed. ; '. " * '* 
 
 Should the weather be so thick that no land can be seen, 
 either mode of proceeding may be adopted. I, however, recom- 
 mend the latter as attended with less risk ; but in such case, the 
 distance run must be carefully attended to, due allowance made for 
 the tide, and the soundings in the chart consulted. The principal 
 thing is to make sure that you have run far enough to the west- 
 ward to insure clearing the N. W. reef, when you haul to the south- 
 ward, for whether you anchor within 1 or 3 miles of Bic, will make 
 no other difference than that the water will be smoother at the 
 less than at the greater distance. 
 
 Vessels running down from the westward to anchor under Bic 
 should keep Mount Camille open to the northward of Cape 
 Arignole to clear the Alcide Rock. Then mnning along the 
 south side of Bic, and the S. E. reef, they should haul round the 
 east point of the latter, no nearer than a quarter of a mile, 
 nor than 8 fathoms, and anchor, with the east point of the 
 S. E. reef bearing S. W. J S., three-quarters of a mile, in 10 
 fathoms, at low water, over clay bottom. The N. E. point of Bic 
 will tlien bear west a little southerly, the N. E. point of Bicquette 
 W. |N., and tlie whole of Cape Arignole will be just open to the 
 southward of the S. E. reef. Large ships may anchor further 
 off to the eastward if they please, but in the berth which I have 
 recommended, a vessel will have plenty of room to cast to the 
 southward, and weather the S. E. reef, in case of a sudden shift of 
 wind. Should she, however, prefer going to the northword round 
 Bicquette, let her beware of the N. E. reef of Bic, the position of 
 which has been already described, and also, particularly if the 
 wind be light, of the indraught of the flood tide between Bic and 
 Bicquette. 
 
 With northerly winds vessels may anchor anywhere in Bic 
 Channel, but the best berth is off a small sandy point, nearly in 
 the middle of the south side of Bic Island, in 8i or 9 fathoms at 
 low water, over muddy bottom, at three-quarters of a mile off shore. 
 
 To the westward of Bic the first of the flood comes from 
 (he N.E., but there is very little stream of flood in neap tides 
 between Bic and the main land, excepting close to the latter. 
 
 ! 
 
CAPE CHATTE TO BIC. 
 
 101 
 
 nes open to 
 southward, 
 thorns, and 
 
 in be seen, 
 jver, recom- 
 ch case, the 
 ice made for 
 lie principal 
 to the west- 
 
 the south- 
 c, will make 
 lother at the 
 
 tr under Bio 
 rd of Cape 
 g along the 
 
 1 round the 
 r of a mile, 
 point of the 
 mile, in 10 
 point of Bic 
 of Bicquettc 
 
 open to the 
 chor further 
 hich 1 have 
 I cast to the 
 iden shift of 
 iward round 
 e position of 
 ilarly if the 
 een Bic and 
 
 here in Bic 
 nt, nearly in 
 9 fathoms at 
 lilc off shore, 
 comes from 
 n neap tides 
 the latter. 
 
 In spring tides it runs through the channel at the average rate Tide» near 
 of li knots, being strongest near the main land. It also runs 
 between Bic and Bicquette, but the stream extends only a 
 very short distance outside the latter island. 
 
 The stream of flood continues its course close along the Stream of the 
 main land, passing inside, and also very close outside, of the 
 Razades, Basque, and Apple Island; but nowhere extending 
 a sufBcient distance off shore to be of use to ships beating to 
 the westward much below Green Island. That part of the 
 stream of flood which passes further out towards Bic, and also 
 that which passes between Bic and Bicquettc, runs at its full 
 rate only until half flood, after which, it becomes gradually 
 weaker, turning to the N. W., round the west end of the island, 
 and finally, to the north and N. E. towards the end of the tide. 
 
 The stream of flood becomes weaker, and of less duration, as we 
 proceed to tlie westward of the islands. Half way between Bic 
 and the Razades there is slack water for about an hour at the 
 end of the ebb ; after which a weak flood makes during tlic 
 first quarter of that tide, at the rate of a quarter of a knot ; and EiUij Flwd, 
 this is succeeded by the eddy flood at the rate of 1 1 knots, or 
 2J at the edge of the Bank of Soundings, which comes from tlic 
 westward, running in the same direction as the ebb during the 
 remainder of the flood tide. 
 
 From these remarks it will be seen, that vessels will make 
 little way to windward against a westerly wind on the Bank of 
 Soundings between Bic and the Razades ; and indeed, all the 
 way to Green Island. 
 
 The set of the latter part of the flood to the northward past the 
 west end of Bic should be remembered by vessels weighing from 
 the western anchorage, or approaching the island with light winds, 
 especially in the night, or thick weather. 
 
 The first of the ebb sets off shore, or from the southward, and Siremi «/ 
 this is more particularly remarkable at the eastern anchorage, hut 
 it only lusts for a very short time, after which the stream runs 
 fairly between the islands, and along the coast to the eastward 
 for the remainder of the tide. Its rate, in westerly winds, varies 
 from 2 to 2^ knots, according ns it is neap or spring tides, hut it 
 does not run so strongly in easterly w inds. 
 
 The chart will show how extensive the south hank is both to the Suuth Hank, 
 eastward and westward of Bir and ni('(|ucttc, and the assistance 
 
]l©@ 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Edg'ofthe 
 South Bank. 
 
 From Bic 
 Inland to the 
 Razade 
 hlet». 
 
 
 South Bank, which the soundings on it may afford to vessels at night, or in 
 fogs, will be evident. If vessels on approaching those islands 
 from either direction, will but use their leads in reference to 
 the soundings in the chart, and attend to the directions giv.en 
 (art. 25), they can scarcely run foul of Bicquette, or its reefs, as 
 has so often occurred in times past. 
 
 It has been mentioned (art. 25), that the 30 fathoms edge of the 
 south bank is 7 miles north of Barnaby Island, and 1^ miles 
 north of the N. W. reef of Bicquette. Between those points the 
 edge of the bank continues in a slightly undulating line. Every- 
 where within that line there is much less water, and to the north- 
 ward of the south bank, in every part, there is no bottom with 
 from 60 to 80 fathoms of line, quite over to the north coast. 
 The 30 fathoms edge of the bank is 4| miles north of the N. E. 
 Razade Islet, and is nearly straight from that point eastward to off 
 the N. W. reef of Bicquette. 
 
 To the westward the south bank becomes gradually wider, its 
 northern edge pursuing a direction from off the Razades towards 
 the north side of the Red-Islet Reef. There ie nowhere 
 more than 36 fathoms at low water upon it, until we arrive 
 within 2 miles of the line joining the N. E. extremities of the 
 Red-Islet, and Green Island Reefs, and this increase in the depth 
 of water is a valuable indication to a vessel approaching that dan- 
 gerous pass in thick weather, when the Green Island light cannot 
 be seen. There is anchorage in 10 or 12 fathoms, with good 
 holding ground, all along the south coast from Bic to Green 
 Island. 
 
 The coast of the main land between Bic and the Razades 
 is high and rocky. With the exception of the Alcide Rock already 
 noticed, it is free from danger to small vessels, which may stand 
 close in : but ships should not stand in further than 7 fathoms at 
 low, and 9 fathoms at high water, because of a long ridge of rocky 
 ground extending 5 miles to the E. N. E. from the N.E. Razade 
 Islet with 17 feet least water near its eastern end. To clear every 
 part of this ridge, keep Basque Island its own breadth open to 
 the northward of the N. E. Razade. 
 
 The Bazadtt. 50. The Razadg Islf.ts are two large rocks about a quarter 
 of a mile long ; they iire low, bare of trees, and bear from each other 
 S. W. J W. H miles. The north-eastcrmost of these Islets bears 
 from thcN. W. reef of Bicquctti' S. W. ;J W., nearly 15 miles, 
 
BIC TO GREEN ISLAND. 
 
 103 
 
 ight, or in 
 )8e islands 
 ference to 
 ions givjcn 
 ts reefs, as 
 
 edge of the 
 
 1^ miles 
 
 points the 
 
 !. Every- 
 
 the north- 
 
 ottom with 
 
 orth coast. 
 
 theN.E. 
 
 ward to off 
 
 wider, its 
 ss towards 
 nowhere 
 
 we arrive 
 [ties of the 
 1 the depth 
 S that dau- 
 ight cannot 
 
 with good 
 I to Green 
 
 le Razades 
 )ck already 
 may stand 
 fathoms at 
 je of rocky 
 .E. Razade 
 clear every 
 th open to 
 
 b a quarter 
 
 each other 
 
 slcts bears 
 
 15 miles, 
 
 and is distant 1| miles from the main land to the southward. 
 There is no passage for vessels between them and the shore. 
 
 Basque Island is 5 miles W.S.W. from the N. E. Razade Islet, 
 II miles long parallel to the coast, and 200 fathoms wide. Its 
 greatest height above the sea does not exceed 100 feet : it is rocky, 
 wooded, uninhabited, and there is no passage for ships between 
 it and the sho^e, from which it is distant 2 miles. 
 
 Near the S. W. end of this island a sandy spit runs out, a 
 quarter of a mile to the southward. Close off the end of this 
 spit, there is a long and narrow hole 4 or 5 fathoms deep at low 
 water, in which small craft may be secured. 
 
 The shoal water extends half a mile to the northward of 
 Basque Island, and there is a reef of rocks to the N. W. and west of 
 its west point. On the western extremity of this reef, and about 
 600 fathoms distant from the island, is a round rock which 
 shows at half tide. 
 
 Apple Island is W.S.W. J W. 2i miles from Basque Island. It 
 is formed by one principal and several smaller rocks ; the whole 
 covering a space one mile long parallel to the coast, by 150 fathoms 
 wide. It is 30 or 40 feet above the sea at high water, without any 
 trees, and distant 2^ miles from the nearest point of main land. 
 There is no passage for ships between it and the shore, but its north 
 side is very bold, there being 4 fathoms at the distance of a cable's 
 length. 
 
 The east end of Green Island is a long and narrow point of 
 rocks, always above water, and running out more than half a mile 
 from the trees towards Apple Island, which is distant from it 2| 
 miles in an E. N. E. direction. Half this distance towards Apple 
 Island is occupied by reefs of slate which dry at low water. In 
 the remainder, there are a few feet of water, affording a passage for 
 very small schooners, which run in between Green Island and the 
 main at high water. And here I may mention, that the line 
 of shoal water is continuous from each of these islands to the other, 
 and may be safely approached with care to 1 fathoms at low, or 
 10 fathoms at high water ; as may also the islands. 
 
 Gkeen Island Lighthousk stands un the north point of the 
 island, nearly 2 miles from the eastern extremity of the rocks above 
 water off its cast point ; and W. S. W. i W., 41 miles from Apple 
 Island. It shows a iixcd light GO feet above tlic sea, and can be 
 been in clear weothcr, and in the ordinary state uf tiic rcfructiuu. 
 
 Basque Island. 
 
 Basque Spit, 
 and deep hole. 
 
 Basque liecfs. 
 
 and half tide 
 Rock. 
 
 Jpple Island, 
 
 Green Island. 
 
 Green Inland 
 Lighthouse, 
 
W 
 
 ;. I: : 
 
 MI) 
 
 i 
 
 m " !i 
 
 ■* 
 
 ffWH 
 
 111 
 
 ' "■il' ! 
 
 
 
 ■jjIMi 
 
 'i 
 
 
 i 'if 
 
 ;'''! 
 
 104 
 
 Orttn hlwtd. 
 
 White Beacon 
 for Red-ltlel. 
 
 Green Island 
 Reef. 
 
 Extent. 
 
 Sleep to, except 
 on eastern aide. 
 
 yrl the Lead it 
 the ohIij guide. 
 
 Ebb sett over it. 
 
 Clearing Mark, 
 
 Green Inland 
 Huad, 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 from the distance of about 12, 14, or 11 miles, according as the 
 height of .the observer's eye is 10, 20, or 60 feet. The tower is 
 square, "white, and 40 feet high. Behind the Lighthouse at 
 the distance of about a quarter of a mile, and bearing S. S. £. i E. 
 irom it, there is a white beacon for leading clear of the tail of the 
 Red-Islet Reef, as described in (Art. 28). 
 
 The Grebn Island Reef, which is extremely dangerous, runs 
 out from the lighthouse N. N.E. ^E. li miles to the 3 fathom 
 mark. From its N. E. extremity it trends, with a serrated outline, 
 E. by S. till it joins the shoal water connecting Green and Apple 
 Islands. Its N. W. side is straight, running S. W. by S. from 
 its N. E. extremity, to the shore close to the westward of the light- 
 house, oS which it extends only 200 fathoms to the N. W. Its 
 shape is therefore irregularly triangular, and the rocks on 
 it dry at low water, nearly three-quarters of a mile out from the 
 high water mark. . 
 
 On the eastern side this reef may be safely approached by the 
 lead to 7 or even 6 fathoms at low water, but on the north, N. W., 
 and west sides there is no bottom with the hand lead until close 
 to it. Half a mile north, and N. W. of it, there are between 20 
 and 30 fathoms of water. At the distance of one mile N. W. from 
 its N. E. extremity, there are between 40 and 50 fathoms ; and at 
 the distance of 14 miles, in the same direction, there is no bottom 
 for a short space with 50 fathoms uf line. 
 
 Deep as the water is to the northward of this dangerous reef, 
 there is no other guide, in a thick fog when the light cannot be 
 seen, but the soundings : yet it will never do to lose command of 
 the vessel by rounding to, in the rapid ebb tide, (which sets upon 
 the reef at the rate of 5 knots,) for the purpose of getting bottom 
 in the usual way by the common deep sea lead. Here then it is 
 that Massey's patent sounding machine becomes of invaluable 
 service to the seaman, enabling him to obtain correct soundings 
 despite of the rapid tide, and without interfering with the course 
 and rate of his vessel. 
 
 To clear Green Island Reef, in the daytime and clear weather, 
 keep the summit of the high land to the southward of Cape Arig- 
 nole (or the high land of Bic) open to the northward of Basque 
 Island. 
 
 There is excellent anchorage in westerly winds under the Green 
 Island Reef, and it is the gcucial rendezvous of vessels waiting for 
 
BIG TO GREEN INLAND. 
 
 105 
 
 ■>s ;\ 
 
 jVi' 
 
 
 the flood to beat through between Greqn and Red Islands. But as orten blmd. 
 the first of the flood comes from the northward, and setp on the 
 shoals, vessels had better not anchor with the light bearing to the 
 westward of S. W. \ W., or in less than 1 fathoms at low water. 
 With that depth, on that bearing, they will be 2h miles from the 
 light, one mile from the eastern edge of the reef, and the same 
 distance from the shoal water to the southward. If they wish 
 still more room, they may choose their berth in 9, 10. or 11 
 fathoms, and will find a bottom of stiff mud in either depth. 
 ' ' When lying at anchor, with the light bearing S. 55° W., and 7t<fc* m Grttn 
 distant 3 miles, and in 8 fathoms at low water, I observed that 
 the firdt of the flood came from the northward ; the vessel then 
 tended gradually round with her head to the N. E., east, and S. E. 
 at the end of the tide. The vessel continued to go round with 
 the first of the ebb, which came from the southward off the shoals, 
 to the S. W., west, and N. W., which latter point she reached at 
 about 2 hours ebb; and she continued with her head in that v 
 
 direction, from which the tide came, until near the end of the tide. 
 She then began to tend again, with her head to the north and 
 N. £. as before, going completely round the compass in 12 hours. 
 It was never entirely slack water, the stream continuing to run, 
 more or less, during the whole time. The rate of the ebb was 
 3 knots, and that of the flood 2 knots This occurred in a per- 
 fectly calm day. 
 
in. 
 
 
 106 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 r 
 
 :«* 
 
 g 
 
 M 
 
 ;i*r 
 
 'X' 
 c 
 
 
 ■^ 
 
 ■it 
 
 THB NORTH COAST OF THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE 
 FROM ST. JOHN RIVER TO POINT DE MONTS; AND FROM 
 THENCE TO LITTLE BERGERON NEAR THE SAGUENAY. 
 
 51. General Description of the Coast from the River St. John to the 
 River Moiiic. Magnetic Nature of the Coast. Appearance of, and 
 Approach to the Shore — 52. River St. John, Magpie River, Sawbill 
 River, Shallop River, Manitou River, Bason River, Point St. Charles. 
 River Moisic, and the Coast and Dangers. — 53, The Shoal to the west- 
 ward of Point Moisic. Seven Islands Bay. — 54. The Coast from the 
 Seven Islands to Point de Monts. River St. Margaret. Cawee Islands. 
 Lobster Bay. Pentecost River. English Point. Egg Island and Reefs. 
 Calumet River. Caribou Point. Trinity Bay. Point de Monts Light- 
 house. Point de Monts, and detached Rocks. — 55. The North Coast 
 of the Estuary, to Point St. Giles. St. Augustin Cove. Goodbout 
 River. St. Nicholas Harbour. St. Pancras Cove. English Bay. — 56. 
 Manicouagon River. Manicouagon Shoal. Outard River. Outard 
 Bay. Bersimis River. — 57. Bersimis Point and Shoals. Jeremy. 
 Cape Colombier. Oulnare Shoal. Wild Fowl Reef. Plongeur Bay. 
 Baie de Laval. Port Neuf River. The Port Neuf Sands.— 58. Point 
 Milles Vaches. Milles Vaches Bay, and the Coast to the south-west- 
 ward. Great and Little Bergeron Coves. 
 
 General 
 Description of 
 the shore. 
 
 '•'■'I 
 
 51. From the River St. John to the River Moisic the course 
 is W. N. W. I W., and the distance 69 miles. The whole of 
 this long line of coast, with the exception of its two extremities, 
 that is to say all between Magpie and Trout Rivers, is composed 
 of primary rocks rising' immediately from the sea in steep, 
 although often rounded hills, which are either bare, or partially 
 wooded with small trees of the pine species. The hills in front, 
 or next to the sea, seldom exceed 200 or 300 feet in height : but 
 others, a short distance back from the shore, form a range of 
 greater elevation, varying from 500 to 700 feet, and nowhere 
 exceeding 1000 feet of height above the sea. 
 Theblackoxideofiron,beBides,beingaconBtituentmineralin the 
 Aatttre of the granitic rocks of this coast, is found abundantly in nests and veins. 
 Coal/. particularly iu the vicinity of Sawbill River. Its magnetic 
 
 action on the needles of compasses on shore is such ns to 
 
 Elevation. 
 
RIVER ST. JOHN TO THE SEVEN ISLANDS. 
 
 107 
 
 cause the variation obtained by them to vary from 14 to 29 
 degrees west. Whilst sounding in the boats, we sensibly felt 
 this disturbing influence, which diminished or increased as the 
 boat receded from, or approached towards the shore. In the 
 Gulnare, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles, the error, from this 
 cause, never exceeded half a point, and at the distance of 5 
 or 6 miles it became insensible. 
 
 The appearance of this coast from a vessel is slightly undulat- Appearance of 
 ing, bold and unbroken, presenting features so little diversified that ' ' '' 
 it is very difficult to make out one part of it from another at a 
 distance of 2 or 3 leagues; but upon a nearer approach, the 
 mouths of the rivers, taken in connexion with the features of the 
 neighbouring land, will in general supply distinguishing cha- 
 racters, by which the situation of a vessel may be ascertained. 
 
 This coast is not by any means so bold as it appears from a The Coatt not 
 distance, for there are many rocks along it both above and under '"''* 
 water, several of which are very dangerous, and nearly 1 mile 
 from the shore. 
 
 There are soundings off every part of this coast, as will be seen Approach to 
 in the chart ; but I advise those who may not be fully acquainted ,„^Jf, 
 with it not to approach the shore between Magpie and Bason 
 Rivers nearer than 20 fathoms. Still greater caution becomes 
 necessary between the last-named river and Point St. Charles, 
 where 40 fathoms is as near as a large ship can approach with 
 prudence, for that depth in several places will be found within 
 1 mile of the rocks. 
 
 52. The River St. John is a large stream occasionally fre- River St. John. 
 quented by fishing-schooners early in the season, and which our 
 boats ascended 6 miles, following the winding of its channels, with 
 a depth of water varying from 1 to 3 fathoms at low water. The 
 tide flows no further than the distance just mentioned, where the 
 river becomes too rapid to be navigated by other than canoes or 
 flat-bottomed boats. The course of the river, for several leagues 
 up from the entrance, is between high cliffs of stratified sand 
 and gravel over clay, with small sandy islands occasionally. The 
 country, on either side, is covered with a thick growth of small 
 spruce trees. Five or six leagues from the sea, following the 
 stream, there are reported to be high falls over granite rocks. 
 At the entrance, between the clay cliffs on the west and a sandy Dreadih. 
 
< 
 
 108 
 
 -<!l'!- 
 
 ■ I •■!' 
 
 GULP OP ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 ■ m 
 
 m 
 
 i 
 
 i*n 
 
 I* 5 
 
 '1 1 
 
 
 River Si, John, 
 
 SUping Bar, 
 
 Anchorage 
 outnde. 
 
 MmmtSt.John. 
 
 Magpie River, 
 
 WaterfiUl. 
 
 Shual. 
 
 point on the east side, the river is 130 fathoms wide. The 
 breadth increases to nearly half a mile immediately within the 
 entrance, and then decreases again gradually, being nowhere 
 less than 100 fathoms wide in the first 6 miles. 
 
 There are two log-houses on the west bank, half a mile within 
 the entrance, where a party of men occasionally reside to fish for 
 salmon; and vessels may lie close to them in 2 fathoms at 
 low water. 
 
 An extensive bar of sand, half a mile out from the entrance, 
 shiils with every gale of wind, and has seldom more than 3 or 4 
 feet over it at low water; at high water there are 7 or 10 feet on 
 the bar, according as it may be neap or spring tide. Southerly 
 and westerly winds cause so heavy a surf as to render the bar 
 impassable. There is good anchorage outside the bar, which 
 may be safely approached by the lead, the soundings decreasing 
 gradually from 20 to 3 fathoms over sand and clay bottom ; the 
 greater depth being at 2]^ miles, and the lesser at three-quarters 
 of a mile, from the river's moutl^. The entrance of the river 
 lies nearly 6i miles N.31**W. from the Perroquets, which are 
 the westernmost of the Mingan Islands ; and Mount St. John, 
 an isolated, saddle-backed hill, 1476 feet above the sea at high 
 water, bears N. £. | N., 11 miles from the entrance. 
 
 Between the St. John and Magpie Rivers the coast consists of 
 white clay cliffs, with a superstratum of sand, which is fast con- 
 solidating into sandstone by means of the red oxide of iron 
 furnished by numerous small streams. 
 
 Magpie River, nearly in the centre of Magpie Bay, and 
 5 miles N.W. ^ N. from the River St. John, is a large and rapid 
 stream, with several rocks above and under water off its east 
 point of entrance, and one-third of a mile off shore. 
 
 The entrance of this river, between steep rocks, is only 10 
 fathoms wide, and the ebb tide rushes out of it in a torrent 
 5 fathoms deep. One hundred and fifty fathoms within this 
 narrow entrance the river falls about 30 feet over granitic rocks. 
 There are from 7 to 9 feet at low water over the bar outside, but 
 as this river is of no use either to vessels or boats it is un- 
 necessary to describe it further. 
 
 Rather more than three-quarters of a mile to the westward of 
 the river, and nearly one-quarter of a mile off shore on the west 
 
 t .' 
 
 ^ 
 
RIVER ST. JOHN TO THE SEVEN ISLANDS. 
 
 109 
 
 side of Magpie Bay, there is a rocky shoal, on which the sea Magfit Bay. 
 almost always breaks at low water. 
 
 The course and distance across Magpie Bay, from the River 
 St. John to Magpie Poiut, is W.N.W. 8 miles. There is good 
 anchorage, with winds off the land, in Magpie Bay ; and vessels 
 may stand in to 7 fathoms at low water in every part of it, but 
 the southerly and westerly winds roll in a very heavy sea. 
 
 Three and a half miles W. N.W. i W. from Magpie Point is Pmit Fathomt 
 Ridge Point, from which a long and narrow ridge of rocky ground, EqcAi, 
 with from 4 to 6 fathoms at low water, extends 4^ miles to the 
 westward across a bay, wherein there is one large and several 
 small rocks above water. The western side of this rocky ground 
 is nearly 1 mile off to the southward of Thunder Point. There is 
 a very heavy sea upon this ridge at times, and it then becomes 
 dangerous to large ships. There are 20 fathoms of water close 
 outside of it in some parts, and 30 fathoms is quite near enough 
 to its west end. 
 
 Sawbill River, situated in the bay between Sheldrake and S'.wbUl River, 
 Ore Points, and 23j miles westward of the River St. John, is the 
 next place worthy of notice. It may be distinguished by the clay 
 cliffe immediately within the entrance, and by the peculiar hills 
 on either side of it, which are barren and of grey felspar, thickly • ''. 
 
 studded with small round mounds. 
 
 This river affords shelter to boats and very small coasting 
 craft ; but it can only be entered in very fine weather, in con- 
 sequence of the heavy surf. It has scarcely any bar; but the 
 entrance, at the western extremity of a long and narrow spit of 
 sand, which extends across the river's mouth, is very narrow, and ' ^ 
 from 4 to 11 feet deep, according to low or high water, in ordinary 
 spring tides. At high water neap tides there is seldom more than 
 9 feet of water. The same depth continues only for a very short 
 distance within the entrance. 
 
 Nine miles S. by E. from the entrance of this river there is a Cod-Bank. 
 bank of sand, gravel, and broken shells, on which codfish 
 abound, and there are upwards of 60 fathoms between it and 
 the shore. 
 
 Shallop River, 7 J miles further to the N.W. by W., affords ShaHop River. 
 shelter only to boats, and can only be entered when there is no 
 surf. There are several rocks, both above and underwater, off 
 this river, and also off Sandy River, a small stream about 2j miles 
 
 }l^ 
 
GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 »!!»" 
 
 I 
 
 I; 
 
 lb 
 
 m 
 
 
 Pi. 
 
 ■ *- further westward. The outermoflt of these rocks lie fully half a 
 mile from the shore. 
 Mmitau River. Manitoo River is the next in order, being 4^ miles N.W. by W. 
 of Shallop River. It is the largest on this coast, excepting the 
 Rivers St. John and Moisic, and it is distant to the westward 
 from the first of these rivers 35 miles. It may be readily dis- 
 tinguished from a vessel several leagues off the coast by two 
 remarkable patches of clay cliff, one of which is close to the 
 eastward, the other about 1 mile to the north-westward of its 
 entrance. 
 
 To enter this river, keep close along the rocky west side of 
 Manitou Point, leaving on the larboard side the sandy spit 
 close within it, which stretches out from the sandy west 
 point of the entrance. The channel is always in this posi- 
 tion, but it is more or less wide and deep according to the 
 season and the winds which may have recently prevailed. In 
 general the channel is about 30 fathoms wide and 5 feet deep 
 at lo^v water, whilst at high water 9 feet in neap tides, and 
 12 feet in spring tides, may be carried in. Strong southerly and 
 westerly winds cause a heavy surf, and render the entrance im- 
 practicable. A short distance within the entrance there are 
 9 feet at low water, deepening gradually to 5 fathoms at the first 
 rapid, one mile up the river. Half a mile further up, the river falls 
 1 13 feet perpendicularly, over sienite and porphyry, in one un- 
 broken sheet of water, forming one of the most beautiful cascades 
 in Lower Canada. 
 ^nckorogenff There is good anchorage off this river. Ships may safely 
 Mamiou River, anchor in fine weather with the wind off-shore, having the 
 entrance of the river bearing N.E.JE., 1|^ miles, where they 
 will have 15 fathoms over mud bottom, and be more than 1 mile 
 distant from Manitou Point, the nearest point of the shore. If 
 they require water they will find it at a small stream on the 
 western shore, a short distance within the entrance ; or they may 
 row up the river until they find the water fresh. 
 
 Small vessels may anchor further in-shore to the westward of 
 the bar, and in the bay between Points Manitou and Buchnn, 
 which are 3 miles from each other ; for the soundings decrease 
 regularly in towards the shore, with snnd and ciny hottoiu, and 
 there is no other danger but a trnmll rocky shoal which hears 
 us from the entrance of tlic river, ! 
 
 Magnificent 
 tValerfttlt. 
 
 liuckan fhint. 
 
 by N. 2i 
 
 I' 
 
RIVER ST. JOHN TO THE SEVEN ISLANDS. 
 
 Ill 
 
 iilly half a 
 
 r.W.byW. 
 :epting the 
 5 westward 
 eadily dis- 
 Bt by two 
 ose to the 
 irard of its 
 
 est side of 
 sandy spit 
 landy west 
 
 this posi- 
 ing to the 
 vailed. In 
 5 feet deep 
 
 tides, and 
 utherly and 
 itrance im- 
 ! there are 
 I at the first 
 le river falls 
 , in one un- 
 ful cascades 
 
 may safely 
 having the 
 where they 
 than 1 mile 
 e shore. If 
 cam on the 
 or they may 
 
 westward of 
 (ind Buchan, 
 igs derrcnuc 
 bottom, and 
 which l)Piir» 
 ;r, S.E..iS. 
 
 nearly a mile from Point Buchan, and which is about three- 
 quarters of a mile o£f-shore. There are 7 fathoms within this 
 shoal, and 9 fathoms close outside of it, so that it should be 
 guarded against by vessels beating along the coast. ' 
 
 Buchan and Fall Rivers, and also Hotteurs River, fall in 
 cascades into the sea, or close to it, and thus serve to point out 
 to a vessel her position off the coast ; and there is, moreover, a 
 remarkable white patch close to the westward of Buchan River. 
 
 Bason River, which is 101 miles W. N.W. JW. from Manitou 
 River, has a spit of large stones extending about 150 fathoms out 
 from its east point of entrance. The entrance is very narrow, 
 with a varying depth, which is less or more according to the 
 prevalence or infrequency of the S.W. winds j but there is in 
 general enough water for very small coasting craft or large boats. 
 There are rapids a quarter of a mile within the entrance. 
 
 Cape Cormorant, 1^ miles west of Bason River, is a small 
 peninsula, on the inner side of which there are the log-huts of a 
 trading post not always occupied, and which cannot easily be seen 
 from the sea. 
 
 Blaskowitz Point is 5| miles W. N.W. J W. from Cape Cor- 
 morant. Between them are the Cormorant Islets, joined to the 
 shore at low water, and not readily distinguishable from the 
 main land. 
 
 A small and dangerous reef, called Cormorant Reef, lies off 
 those islets, and about a mile from the shore, It has 12 feet least 
 water, and bears W. IN. 2 J miles from Cape Cormorant. On it. 
 Points Blaskowitz and St. Charles are in one, bearing W. N.W. 
 nearly, so that vessels approaching this part of the coast should 
 keep the latter point open. The coast between Cape Cormorant 
 and Point St. Charles is broken into coves, two of which are nearlv 
 1 mile deep, full of rocks, and afford shelter only to boats. The 
 shore is here fringed with rocks both above and under water, and 
 should not therefore be made too free with. 
 
 Point St. Chahlks will readily be known by the cove on the 
 east side of it, and by the trending of the land on the west side 
 northward towards Trout River. 
 
 TuK REEF off Point St. Charles is extremely daniferous, being 
 HO bold that there is no waniing by the hand lead, and very little 
 with tlie deep sea lend. It is composed of a great number of 
 rocks near to each other, but having a considerable depth of 
 
 Catcadet of 
 Buchanand two 
 other Rivert 
 mark the 
 Coast. 
 
 Baton River. 
 
 Cormorant 
 Cape. 
 
 Blatkouiitt 
 Point. 
 
 Cormorant 
 hieti. 
 
 Cormorant 
 Reef. 
 
 St. Charles 
 Point. 
 
 St. Charles 
 Reef. 
 
112 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 « 
 
 CI 
 
 
 
 Moitie Bay. 
 
 Trout River, 
 
 Sral-hmue 
 Govt. 
 
 St. Ckarht water between them. Some of them always show, but the outer< 
 •'' most patches are always covered. These last lie rather more thau 
 
 three-quarters of a mile oflf to the S. S.W. from the southern ex- 
 treme of Point St. Charles ; and the reef continues to the first 
 cove, Ij^ miles to thfe north-westward of the point, but does not 
 there extend so far off-shore as off the point itself. 
 
 Vessels beating to the westward should take care not to be 
 becalmed to the westward of this reef, lest the heavy swell from 
 the S.W., so frequent on this coast, should heave them towards 
 the reef, for the water is too deep to anchor until close to the 
 breakers. 
 
 Moisic Bay intervenes between Points St. Charles and Moisic 
 River, the course across it is west, and distance 11 miles, with a 
 depth of between 50 and 60 fathoms nearly all the way. Trout 
 River, a small stream, is in the centre of this bay, and 6t^ miles 
 N. W. J W. from Point St. Charles. Here the rocky shores 
 terminate, and the bold sandy beach, which extends 6^ miles 
 S.W. by W. to the River Moisic, commences. 
 
 Seal House Cove, on the east side of the bay, and 2\ miles 
 from Point St. Charles, affords shelter only to boats. There are 
 two log houses there, which are occasionally occupied as a fishing 
 and trading post. 
 
 The soundings are regular in the bay, with deep water, over 
 clay and sand bottom. 
 
 The granitic hills, which leave the shore at Trout River, con- 
 tinue inland until they join the ridges in rear of the Bay of Seven 
 Islands. Between the hills and the sea there is an extensive 
 tract of low sondy country, thickly wooded, and which seems to 
 have been formed, in the course of ages, by the united action of 
 the rivers and the sea. 
 Moiuc Htvtr. The River Moisic enters the eca on the east side of the point 
 of the same name, which is the southern extremity of the sandy 
 country just mentioned. It is a larger river than the St. John, 
 discharging a great quantity of water in the spring after the 
 melting of the winter snows, and bringing down from the interior 
 great quantities of sand, which so obstruct its wide and shallow 
 channel in the first 2|^ miles from the sea that boats cannot 
 ascend at low water. The river becomss Bhnllow immediately 
 within the entrance, expanding in'o ii wide place full of sund-liara 
 dry at low water. In the ubuve-numcd distance from the seu, 
 
RIVER ST. JOHN TO THE SEVEN ISLANDS. 
 
 113 
 
 the breadth of the river decreases from 2J miles to half a mile, '*'<'«*'> River. 
 and at the end of that distance the sand-bars cease. The river 
 has then a clear channel of 9 feet deep, between steep 
 sandy shores or cliffs for 1 mile further, where its breadth is a 
 quarter of a mile. Here our examination was terminated by a 
 head-wind and the rapidity of the current in the spring of the 
 year. The traders report that flat-bottomed boats can ascend to 
 the first rapids at the distance, following the stream, of 6 or 7 
 leagues from the sea. The bar, which is of sand, dry at half tide. Bur. 
 runs out from the long, low, and narrow east point of entrance, 
 nearly half a mile to the south-westward, and nearly parallel to 
 the east side of the west point of entrance. 
 
 The entrance of the River, between this bar and the west point, Eniranee, 
 is from the S.W., and continues for 600 fathoms with a breadth 
 of a quarter of a mile, and a depth varying with the seasons and 
 the winds which prevail ; those from the southward and eastward 
 having a tendency to block up the channel. I believe that there Dei,ih. 
 is seldom a less depth than 9 feet at low water, the same as 
 inside close under the west point of entrance, which is the 
 only place where a small vessel can find shelter, close to two 
 log-houses occasionally employed as a salmon-fishery by the 
 l)coplc of the Hudson Buy Company. The shelter here is ex- 
 tremely im])erfect in gules of wind from the southward and 
 eastward, which send in so heavy a sea that, after breaking 
 completely over the bar »ud across the entrance, it still retains 
 power enoiigh to seriously affect a small vessel. The tides rise tUii. 
 from .5 to 8 feet. 
 
 .5.3. Although the bar of the River Moisic is so bold that there »l/oi'»i> flank, 
 are .50 fatlionis of water at the distiuicc of three-quarters of n mile 
 from it to the south and S. E., yet the Bhnllow water continues 
 from it to the westward 3 J miles past Point Moisic in such a 
 nmiiner as to form an extensive triangular sandy slioal, with from 
 .'i to 1^ fathoms on it at low water. 
 
 The S.W. extremity of tiiis wlioal, near which there is n 3fuisic limi, 
 jiatch of rock with 9 fett least water, l)ears W. by S. J S. 21 
 miles from Point Moisic, and is nearly li miles from the shore. 
 This is an extremely dangerous siioal, being us bold as a wall, reri/ itaiigrrmit. 
 There are 2.5 fathoms of water aloniiside of its south and S.W. 
 edges, and upwards of .'10 fiillionis at the distance of two rabies. 
 I( can gcmrally be Been, in fine wiuther, ftoin tlie change in the 
 
 I 
 
114 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 S! 
 
 e 
 
 it*' 
 
 Pi 
 
 J»/«r*. 
 
 Etui Rocki. 
 
 Moisic Rich, colour of the water, and from heavy breakers when there is much 
 Bcarunnmg. ' ■ ' 
 
 There is no close leading mark for avoiding this shoal, so that 
 the only direction I can give to a vessel standing towards it, is to 
 tack when the northern side of the Manowin Island comes on with 
 the southern ]ioint of the Great Boulc luland : she will then he 
 11 miles from the edge of tlie shoal, and in upwards of 30 fathoms 
 water. 
 
 The East Rocks, which are low, bare of trees, and always above 
 water, lie in Boule Bay between this shoal and the Boule Islands, 
 as will be seen in the chart. Tiiey arc out of the way of vessels, 
 which ought not to go into this embayed place, since there is 
 generally a heavy southerly swell rolling in, which would render 
 it difficult to beat out. 
 
 The south point of Great Boule Island bears west, and is 
 distant 9i miles from Point Moisic. 
 
 Thb Seven Islands are high and steep, of primary rocks, very 
 thinly wooded, and can be made out from a distance of 1 or 8 
 leagues, being unlike anything else in the Gulf. Tlie eastermost of 
 these islands are the Great and Little Boule, the former of which 
 is the highest of them all, its summit bcmg G95 feet above the 
 sea at high water. Next, westward, and paiallel to these two, are 
 the Little and Great Basque Islands ; the first named being, as 
 before, the outer island. Great Basque Island is 500 feet 
 high. Manowin and Carousel lie to the S.W. of the Basques. 
 The former island is 457 feet high ; the latter much lower, and 
 the southernmost of the islands. The West Rocks lie between 
 Manowin and the peninsula, wliich forms the west jioint of the 
 Bay of Seven Islands. They are too small and low to appear as 
 the seventh island ; but the peninsul.i has that a|i])earance wlien 
 seen at n distance from sea, being higher tlian any of the islands, 
 and ''[V] feet above the sea at high water. 
 
 Tlie relative situations of these Islands, their size, and the 
 hreiulth of the channels between them, will be best seen from tlie 
 charts ; they arc so placed as to completely shelter the nuignificent 
 bay within them, wliich is 23 miles wide at llie entrance, be- 
 tween Point Chasse, the cast end of the peninsula, ami San«ly 
 Point, which is opposite the northern end of Great Basque 
 Inland. From the entrance tlie Bay of Seven Islands extends 
 iiliout mileB tu the northward and westward, being su nearly 
 
 The Seven 
 hianiti. 
 
 Itiiiltr. 
 
 Budque, 
 
 Miinnvin, 
 Cnrou»et. 
 
 Sn<en hlandu 
 JUiy. 
 
THE SEVEN ISLANDS. 
 
 115 
 
 re 18 
 
 much 
 
 )al, 80 that 
 rds it, is to 
 nes on with 
 ■ill then be 
 30 fathoms 
 
 ways above 
 ule Islands, 
 y of vessels, 
 ace there is 
 ,ouUl render 
 
 ;rest, and is 
 
 y rocks, very 
 EC of T or 8 
 eastermost of 
 ner of which 
 et above the 
 hcse two, are 
 led being, as 
 is 500 feet 
 the Basques, 
 •h h)\vcr, and 
 J lie betvcen 
 ; point i>f the 
 V to appwir ii» 
 )cnuancc when 
 of the islands, 
 
 81ZC, and the 
 
 seen from the 
 
 he magnificent 
 
 entrance, be- 
 
 11, and Sandy 
 
 Great Basque 
 
 Bhvnds extends 
 
 eing so nearly 
 
 / '(/ v.se.v 
 
 landlocked as to resemble a lake, suiBciently extensive for the S,ven hlunds 
 largest fleets to lie in perfect safety ; the bottom is of clay, and 
 there are no shoals, excepting the* mud banks which iill up the 
 northern part of the Bay. 
 
 A fine broad, bold, sandy beach extends for 3 miles northward 
 from the east point of the Bay, to the entrance of the principal 
 river, near which stands the Hudson Bay Company's trading 
 post. The houses at this post cannot be seen from the outer parts 
 of the Bay, but there is a wooden store on the beach olf which 
 vessels usually anchor. Water can be obtained from this river 
 at high-tide. 
 
 To the northward of the Bay, at the distance of a few miles, 
 there are two parallel ranges of mountains ; the summits of the 
 nearest are upwards of 1300, and those- of the most distant up- 
 wards of 1700 feet above the sea. These mountains, the high 
 peninsula, the bold and hilly islands, and the other features 
 around the Bay, form a panorama of great beauty. 
 
 The narrow Passes between the two Boule Islands, the two ne mirrow 
 Basque Islands, between Miuiowin and Carousel, and between 
 Manowin and the West Rocks, require no further notice than to 
 remark, that the tide sets strongly towards, and through them ; 
 the flood to the west, and the ebb to the eastward, a circunistiince 
 that should be attended to when becalmed at ninht, or when tacking 
 in their entrances. The first and last of these channels have water 
 enough for tlie largest ships ; but the one is subject to sudden and 
 bafHing flaws of wind round the Boule Islands, and the other is 
 rendered intricate by rocks which nearly cover at high water. 
 
 There are three obvious channels leading into Seven Islands lUisieni 
 Bay, nanu'ly, the eastern, the middle, and the western clmnnels. 
 The eastern channel, between Great Bascjuc Island an<l Sandy 
 Point, is seldom used, having a rock in its centre, which 
 is covered only in high tides. A reef, with from 6 to D feet 
 of water, extends for a quarter of a mile to the eastward of this 
 rock. The passage on either side of it is from 13 to 15 fathoms 
 deep, nnd 200 fathoms wide. Vessels should only attempt it 
 with a fair wind, and should keep within a cable's length of 
 Basque Island, or as near to the sandy point of the main land: 
 the latter is recommended as preferable. This narrow eastern 
 rhaniiel may be approaclitd from between the Boule Inlands and 
 the East Rockn, or fmni between the Boulesand Basqres Ifhtmlti, 
 
 I '2 
 
 L'Imnnel, 
 
m 
 
 m 
 
 
 r 
 
 116 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Seven Island* 
 Bay. 
 
 Mulil/e 
 Channel. 
 
 
 botli routes being entirely free from dnnger, for the islands are so 
 bold that a vessel may approach them within a cable's length in 
 every part. 
 
 The middle (which is also the principal and best) channel is 
 upwards of 1 i miles wide, and so free from danger that the largest 
 ship may approach the shore within half a cable's length in every 
 part, excepting at Point Chasse, where a reef runs out 120 
 fathoms from the shore. This channel, between the Basque 
 Islands on the east, and Carousel, Manowin, the West Rocks, 
 and the peninsula on the west, is preferable in every wind, 
 excepting the north and N. W., with which, to save beating, 
 (since they blow out of the Bay,) it might be desirable to enter 
 by the west channel. The course through the middle channel 
 into the Bay is due north by compass. 
 n'est Chamiel, The west channel between the West Rocks and Point Croix, 
 at the southern extremity of the peninsula, is three-quarters of a 
 mile wide, and quite free from danger. There are 2 or 3 rocks a 
 cable's length to the northward of the islets, called the West 
 Rocks, but they always show, excepting in very high tides and 
 the smoothest sea. The only direction necessary, therefore, is 
 not to go nearer to the West Rocks than 2 cables' length ; the 
 peninsula side is quite bold. There is, however, a caution neces- 
 sary here respecting the ebb tide, which is turned off by Point 
 Croix towards tlic West Rocks, a circumstance which must be 
 attended to in taking this channel with a scant northerly wind. 
 
 There are no leading marks for these channels, nor are any re- 
 quired, for the two last described arc so free from danger, that a 
 person who had never seen them before might take the largest 
 ship into the Bay, without either chart or pilot, by simply giving 
 the shore a berth of 2 cables' length in every part. 
 
 The water is too deep for anchoring in any of these channels, 
 and the bottom generally rocky, excepting to the eastward and 
 northward of the Boule Islands. The ground is not fit for 
 unclioring until well into tlie Bay. 
 
 The best berth foi a large ship to 1'^ "^ anchor in Seven 
 Islands Bay is with Sandy Point au;! the north side of 
 Liitle Boule Island in one, and with Point Chassti on with 
 the west side of the West Rocki». The N. W. extremity of the 
 siindy beach near tlie entrance of the river will then bear N. 
 by E. ;^ E. : the vessel will be in 9 fathoms at low water; over 
 
 Murks tinne- 
 veiiarij. 
 
 /hirfmriiii/ 
 Ihrlh. 
 
THE SEVEN ISLANDS. 
 
 117 
 
 ids are so 
 length in 
 
 tiannel is 
 he largest 
 X in every 
 out 120 
 e Basque 
 >3t Rocks, 
 ery wind, 
 e beating, 
 le to enter 
 le channel 
 
 lint Croix, 
 arters of a 
 r 3 rocks a 
 the West 
 tides and 
 lerefore, is 
 ingth ; the 
 tion neces- 
 ff by Point 
 h must be 
 [y wind, 
 lire any re- 
 iger, that a 
 the largest 
 nply giving 
 
 se channels, 
 stward and 
 not fit for 
 
 r in Seven 
 th side of 
 is»5 on with 
 ;mity of the 
 len hear N. 
 water; over 
 
 clay bottom, nearly one mile from the sandy beach to the eastward, Seven Islands 
 and nearly three-quarters of a mile from the 3 fathoms edge of 
 the shoals, which occupy the northern part of the Bay. Smaller 
 vessels may lie closer to the shore, in 6 fathoms at low water, 
 which is as near as any vessel ought to anchor. 
 
 In this anchorage there is a considerable swell with a strong 
 southerly wind, but never enough to endanger a vessel, although 
 sufficient to prevent boats from landing. Those that may wish 
 to he perfectly smooth, may anchor in the S. W. part of the Bay 
 in 13 fathoms, soft clay bottom, where they will be perfectly 
 landlocked. 
 
 The rate of the stream of the tides in the Bay, and in the priu- Tid<i. 
 cipal channels between the Seven Islands, seldom amounts to a 
 knot ; but in the narrow channel between the Boule Islands, the 
 Basque Islands, and in the east and west channels, it may amount 
 to 2 knots in spring tides, or even more in the narrowest of these 
 channels when accelerated by strong winds. The flood, coming 
 along the coast from the eastward, strikes the Boule Islands, and 
 passes between them, and also between the two Basque Islands. It 
 is turned oif by the Great Boule towards Carousel Island, and the 
 west channel ; but the greater part of the stream, which pusses 
 within the Boule Islands, enters the Bay by the east channel, be- 
 tween the Great Basque Island and the main land. There is very 
 little flood in the middle channel excepting an eddy outward 
 stream close along the shores of the peninsula, and the narrow 
 stream from between the Basque Islands, which sets across 
 towards the west channel. 
 
 The ebb sets fairly out of the Bay, part of it by the east 
 channel, and part by the middle channel, where it meets the 
 stream through the west channel, which turns it to the eastward, 
 past the southern points of the Basque and Boule Islands. 
 
 In fine nights the winds are almost always light and baffling Ihffling IVmU 
 between the islands, particularly if the wind be from the westward"' '"J"'* 
 in the offing. At such times there is generally a northerly land 
 wind in the Bay, but it docs not often reach far out among tlu; 
 islands in the early part of the night, although it often docs 
 towards the morning. 
 
 The water is extremely deep outside of the Seven Islands, as 
 will be seen in the chart, and the islands are so bold, that a veshcl 
 muy stand close to their rocky shores. 
 
118 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 ■•}•* uv 
 
 Seven hlnnda 
 to Point lie 
 Minis. 
 
 : * 
 ti 
 
 'r 
 
 «- 
 
 g 
 It 
 
 if*-- 
 
 ^oW 0/n»/ and 
 tisi-ful Sound- 
 iny*. 
 
 St. Margaret 
 Hiver. 
 
 Si. Margaret 
 Point. 
 
 54. The course from the S. E. point of Carousel, the southermost 
 of the Seven Islands, to Point de Monts lighthouse is S.W. by W. 
 J W., and the distance 60 miles. 
 
 This coast is less bold in appearance, being less elevated thai) 
 that to the eastward of the Seven Islands. The hills are, for the 
 most part, far back in the country, and the shores are of very 
 moderate height above the sea. The country near the sea is 
 formed of small and low granitic hills, partially wooded with spruce 
 trees. Marshes and ponds are frequent between the hills; sandy 
 beaches occur occasionally, and the sandy tracts in rear of them 
 are always the most densely wooded parts. 
 
 There are no detached dangers off this coast, which is much 
 more bold than its appearance would promise ; and although the 
 water is deep off every point of it, yet in general, and with few 
 exceptions, there are sufficient soundings with the deep sea lead, 
 to give warning to a vessel of her approach to the shore. 
 
 The course from Carousel Island across St. Margaret Bay to 
 Point St. Margaret, is \V. by N. 14 miles; with very deep water 
 all the way. 
 
 St. Margaret Rivkr is nearly in the centre of the bay of 
 the same name; being 6 miles N.W. by W. from Point Croix. 
 This River, although a large stream, affords shelter to boats only. 
 It has a bar of sand extending three-quarters of p mile out from 
 the entrance, and having several small channels through it, with • 
 only 3 feet at low water. Immediately within the entrance, 
 which is no I'atlioms wide, there are G feet, and only 3 feet can 
 be carried up to the low falls, which are over granitic rocks, and 
 3i miles from the entrance. Below the falls, the River flows be- 
 tween cliffs of sand and clay, and is full of sand-bars, dry at low 
 water. The water deepens gradually outside the bar, wtth sandy 
 bottom, to 18 fatlionis at the distance of u mile from the 3 fathom 
 mark. There is sandy beach for a considerable distance on 
 either side of the River's mouth. 
 
 St. Margaret Point is rocky, of very moderate height, and 
 has a round hill ii short distance within its extremity. There are 
 several rocks, which cover at high water, and which extend to the 
 distance of nearly one-third of a mile oil' this point. These rocks 
 are extremely bold, and there is no bottom with the hand lead 
 dose outside of tliern, and no bottom witii 70 fathoms of line ut a 
 less distance than 2 miles. 
 
THE SEVEN ISLANDS TO POINT DE MONTS. 
 
 Ill) 
 
 ,..U' 
 
 The course and distance from St. Margaret Point to Great ^<«'* '*'•'*'■' 
 Cawee Island is S. W.by W. JW. 16 miles, across a bay in which 
 are Rock River, and many other small streams. The coast in this 
 distance is low, and fringed with small islets and rocks close to 
 the shore, which may with prudence be closely approached by the 
 lead ; but 20 fathoms is near enough to it, for those who are not 
 fully acquainted. The deep sea soundings are very irregular off Irregular 
 this section of the coast, for in some parts there are not more than 3/0^'/"/?/*. 
 50 fathoms 4 or 5 miles off-shore, wheteas in others, as off the 
 May Islets, 6 miles north-eastward of the Cawee Islands, no 
 bottom will be found with 60 fathoms within 2 miles of the rocks. 
 
 The Cawee Islands are two small and hilly islands of grey Cnwie h/ands. 
 granite, and nearly bare of trees. Great Cawee Island, which 
 is the largest, the highest, and most to the eastward, is about 
 three-quarters of a mile in diameter, and estimated to be about 
 2.50 feet high. Little Cawee Island, lying a mile further to the 
 south-westward, is composed of two contiguous islets, which occupy 
 a length of half a mile parallel to the coast ; it has several rocks 
 above water close off it to the S. W., and a reef 120 fathoms to the 
 north and N. W. of its west point. Both of these islands are bold 
 as a wall to seaward, but there is a small and high round rock a 
 quarter of a mile S. W., from the south point of the Great Cawee, 
 and this is the only danger between the islands, being, like their 
 southern sides, so bold that a large ship might lie alongside of it. 
 
 There is a secure boat cove on the N. E. side of the Great Great Cuwee 
 Cawee, with plenty of water, but too small and narrow in the en- 
 trance for vessels. Off the mouth of this cove to the N. E., and 
 at the distance of 200 fathoms from the island, there is a rocky Orcni Cawee 
 shoal 100 fathoms in diameter, and with 15 feet least water. 
 The mark for this shoal is the north side of Great Cawee and the 
 point of the main land to the w estward in one, bearing W. S.W . ^ W. 
 Half 11 mile N.E.byN. from this shoal is a small round ledge, Cawee Ledge. 
 a wash at low water, and one-third of a mile from the main 
 land. Tiie marks for this ledge are the south side of the large 
 rocks, between Great Cawee and the main, on with tlie point of 
 the main to the westward; and the south side of Little Cawee 
 just shut in behind the north side of Great Cawee I&land. 
 
 At the distance of 200 fithoms from Great Cawee, betw een it and 
 the main, there aic two larjio rocks close togethtr, which are 150 
 failioms from llic mainland, and have u reef oil' ihcni 20U fathoiiis 
 
 y 
 .<>' 
 
12(J 
 
 /r/<:?c GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. ^A lt»4 
 
 
 ;••«; 
 
 ■f . 
 
 ^§ 
 
 ^li" 
 
 ill > treat 
 Vawee- 
 
 to the S. W. by W. Nearly half a mile N.E. byE. from these 
 rocks, and at the same distance from the main, there is a small 
 rock which always shows. 
 Aiiehorinij Bag There is a bay on the inner or N. W. side of the Great Cawec 
 Island ; the anchorage is in the mouth of this bay, in 7 fathoms 
 muddy bottom, and at the distance of a cable's length from 
 the Island. The shelter is complete with winds from W. by S. 
 round by north to N. E., and tolerably so with all easterly 
 winds, although some swell rolls round the Island; but the 
 S. W. winds blow right in, and send in a very heavy sea. To 
 run into this anchorage from the eastward, steer N.W. past 
 the N. E. side of Great Cawee Island, going no nearer than half a 
 mile, (to avoid the shoal off the mouth of the cove,) until the 
 point of the main land to the westward opens clear of the north 
 side of the Island. Then steer for the poirt nt the main land, 
 keeping it midway between the north side of the Island and the 
 large rocks to the northward of it. When you arrive between the 
 rocks and tiie Island, haul into the mouth of the small bay, which 
 you will see on the N.W. side of the latter, and anchor in 7 
 fathoms at low water. There are 12 or 13 fathoms in the middle 
 of the channel, and upwards of 9 fathoms can be carried through. 
 
 In running for this anchoragi- I'roni the westward, a vessel may 
 pass between Little Cawee and the main, keeping in mid channel ; 
 but the better and safer way is to pass between Little and Great 
 Cawee Isla.ids, hauling close round the west point of the latter 
 into the anchorage. By this route there is nothing in the way, 
 excepting the round rocks to the south-westward of the south 
 point of the Island, which can always be seen. 
 
 The tides run fair through between the islands and the main 
 land, at a rate which seldom exceeds IJ^ knots, and which is in 
 general much less. 
 
 From the foregoing description it will be seen that this is 
 a very dangerous and intricate place; and the anchorage be- 
 tween Great Cawee and the main is too small for large vessels, 
 the channel being only 200 fathoms wide. Still this anchorage, 
 although too email for an occasional place of shelter, excepting for 
 small vessels, may, nevertheless, be of great use as a place of refuge 
 for a vessel in distress, from loss of masts, or other cause ; for 
 the ground is so good that I believe a vet^sel, well moored there, 
 would ride out any gulc wliich occurs during the buuimur munths. 
 
 Tide*. 
 
 Anchot'nge 
 between Great 
 Cawee and 
 the Main. 
 
THE SEVEN ISLANDS TO POINT DE MONTS. 
 
 121 
 
 There is neither wood nor water in the Cawee Islands, but 
 both may be obtained from the opposite main land. 
 
 Point Sproule, three-quarters of a mile to the north-westward Point SprouU. 
 from Little Cawee Island, is the eastern point of Lobster Bay. 
 A reef extends oflF its south side, a cable's length towards Little Reefs. 
 Cawee ; but the principal reef oflF it runs out 400 fathoms to the 
 west and S.W. 
 
 IjObster Bay is between Point Sproule and the Crooked I^htter Bay. 
 Islands, which are a group of small islets and rocks, running out 
 from the shore 3 miles to the westward of Point Sproule. All the 
 N. E. part, or head of Lobster Bay is occupied by an extensive 
 flat of sand and boulders, dry at low water, and on which lobsters 
 abound ; but it is an excellent open roadstead, with plenty of 
 room for the largest ships. 
 
 The Crooked Islands are bold to the southward and eastwards Crooked 
 
 . Itinnds. 
 
 leavmg the mouth of the Bay clear of all danger across to the reef 
 off Point Sproule. Vessels may anchor midway between the reef 
 and the islands, choosing their depth from 5 to 1 2 fathoms, ac- 
 cording as they may wish to lie at the distance of half a mile, or 
 of one mile from the 3 fathom edge of the flats in the head of 
 the Bay. The bottom is of fine sand over clay, and the shelter 
 from S. W. round by west and north to east, but all winds from 
 east round by south to S. W. blow right in, with a heavy sea and 
 thick weather. 
 
 Pentecost River enters the sea on the S. W. side of a rocky Pentecost 
 point, 1 J miles to the westward of ihe Crooked Islands : the op- 
 posite point of entrance is of sand. Two miles S. W. from the 
 mouth of the River, there is a remarkable round and wooded hill. 
 The first reach of the River is towards this hill, leaving a very 
 narrow sandy ridge between it and the sea. Steep clifl^s of sand 
 and clay form the River's banks for 2^ miles, to which distance 
 only it is navigable for boats. The entrance of the River is only 
 
 15 fathoms wide, with a depth of T feet at low water, and there 
 are 9 feet within for a short distance. At high water from 12 to 
 
 16 feet can be carried in, so that this River is capable of affording 
 shelter to coasting schooners as well as boats : but it would be 
 very difiicult to take a sailing vessel in through so narrow an en- 
 trance, and could never be done in the ebb tide, which runs out 
 with great rapidity. 
 
 River. 
 
 I 
 
 5 
 
 %A' 
 
b'lt 
 
 122 
 
 -T/'M GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 "i mv> 
 
 THE 
 
 '; H-. 
 
 ^*! 
 
 in 
 
 'CI 
 
 ■(•■ 
 ' j)' 
 
 E;^!/ Island. 
 
 Diwgeroui' 
 Reefs. 
 
 ' 't-' A fine bold sandy beach extends from this River to English 
 
 Point a distance of 7 miles to the S. W. 
 Engtiih Point. Englisb Point is It^miles to the nothward and eastward from 
 the north rocks of Egg Island, and has a shoal of large stones 
 extending off it to the distance of one-third of a mile. On the 
 S. W. side, or towards Egg Island, this shoal may be approached 
 to 6 fathoms at low water, but on the S. E. and east it is very bold, 
 there being 15 fathoms at the distance of one-third of a mile, and 
 30 fathoms at the distance of a mile from the 3 fathom mark. 
 
 Egg Island bears from the south point of Great Cawee Island 
 S. W. ^ W. 14 miles. It is low, narrow, and of granitic rocks, 
 without trees, and three-quarters of a mile long in a N. N. E. JE. 
 direction. The North Rocks, always above water, are 400 fathoms 
 distant from the island to the N.N.E.; they form a low, narrow, 
 black reef, which is 300 fathoms long in the same direction, bold 
 towards the main land and also towards English Point. A reef 
 under water runs out from these rocks in the direction of their 
 length, (namely to the S. S. W.,) and to the distance of 250 
 fathoms, leaving only a very narrow 3 fathom channel between 
 them and the island. The N. E. reef runs out to the distance of 
 600 fathoms from the N. E. point of Egg Island, and is the 
 greatest danger between Seven Islands and Point de Monts. 
 Some of the rocks upon the N. E. reef show in low tides, and the 
 sea generally breaks on them at low water. This reef prevents 
 the swell from rolling in between the north rocks and Egg Island, 
 and thus assists in sheltering the anchorage. 
 
 The whole, that is the island, rocks, and reefs, form a natural 
 breakwater, which is 1^- miles long in a N.N.E. direction, and 
 inclines slightly towards the shore at its northern end, in such a 
 manner as, with the assistance of the shoal off English Point, to 
 shelter the anchorage from N. E. winds. The northern end of 
 this breakwater is distant from the main land nearly three-quarters 
 of a mile, and the southern end more than a mile; 1)ut extensive 
 flats extend from the main, and diminish the navigable breadth of 
 the channel to 370 fathoms in the narrowest part, wliich is nearly 
 opposite the northern end of Egg Island. The best anchorage is, 
 however, to the S. W. of this narrow part, where the breadth, 
 from the 3 fathom edge of the shoal oft' the main to Egg Island, is 
 GOO fathoms. 
 
 Egn Island 
 Anchoraije, 
 
 All alon 
 water to tl 
 Rocks then 
 very deep, 
 to them, 
 and the bes 
 the time of 
 the island, 
 main land, 
 towards the 
 should hav( 
 they might 
 
 In order 
 depth of wt 
 of a line joi 
 The best p 
 S.E.byS.. 
 Point will t 
 In this anc 
 north and \ 
 by the Isla 
 maining poi 
 strong, and 
 shifting hei 
 over sandy 
 
 No direr, 
 from the si 
 Island is q 
 twecn the I 
 9 fathoms, 
 northward 
 giving the 
 length, unt 
 a mile. Y 
 may haul 
 by E. to av 
 rocks and i 
 reef off the 
 
 Tliesc 
 vessel to ru 
 
THE SEVEN ISLANDS TO POINT DE MONTS. 
 
 123 
 
 All along the inner sides of Egg Island and of the reef under Egg Island. 
 water to the S. S. W. of the North Rocks, as well of the North 
 Rocks themselves, excepting near their northern end, the water is - .v 
 
 very deep, there being from 17 to 24 fathoms at low water close 
 to them. The depth decreases gradually towards the main land, 
 and the best depth to anchor in is 9 or 10 fathoms, according to 
 the time of tide. The bottom is of clay in the deep water towards 
 the island, and of sand from the depth of 9 fathoms towards the 
 main land. There is little danger of dragging an anchor up hill 
 towards the main, but, with violent squalls off the land, vessels 
 should have a good scope of cable out, for should the anchor start, 
 they might be on the rocks before they could bring up again. 
 
 In order to have as much room us possible, with a moderate 
 depth of water, vessels should not anchor to the north-eastward 
 of a line joining Roadstead Point and the centre of Egg Island. 
 The best position is with the S.W. end of Egg Island bearing 
 S. E. by S.. and the inner side of the North Rocks N. E. ; English 
 Point will then be open half a point to the westward of the latter. 
 In this anchorage vessels will lie sheltered from N. E. round by 
 north and west to S.W. by the main land, and from S. E. to N. E. 
 by the Island, with its rocks and reefs. The winds from the re- 
 maining points, namely, those between S.W. and S. E., seldom blow 
 strong, and even with them a vessel may find some shelter by 
 shifting her berth to the eastward, where she will find 1 fathoms 
 over sandy bottom. ' 
 
 No directions are necessary for running into this anchorage 
 from the southward and westward, since the S.W. end of Egg 
 Island is quite bold. But if it be intended to run through be- 
 tween the Island and the main, stand in to the northward to 8 or 
 9 fathoms, or until English Point is open half a point to the 
 northward of the North Rocks, then steer for English Point, 
 giving the inner side of the North Rocks a berth of a cable's 
 length, until you have passed the North Rpcks a full quarter of 
 a mile. You will then be in about "7 fathoms at low water, and 
 may haul out to sea, going nothing to the southward of S. E. 
 by E. to avoid the N. E. reef. There is no danger between the 
 rocks and reefs of Egg Island and English Point, excepting the 
 reef off the latter already mentioned. 
 
 These directions, taken in the reverse order, will enable a 
 vessel to 1 un through from the eastward ; and I shall merely add 
 
 ^'^m * 
 
:? i 
 
 'Ml,' 
 
 t 
 
 
 *>■ 
 
 124 
 
 /t'^y IslaniK 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 IVatet. 
 
 Tides lit EijJ 
 h!and. 
 
 to them a caution not to approach the N. E. reef off Egg Islet, for 
 there are 20 fathoms at the distance of a quarter of a mile from it in 
 every seaward direction, and consequently little warning by the lead. 
 
 The anchorage at Egg Island is too small to be a i'uvouritc 
 resort for large vessels, but in time of need, or as a place of refuge 
 in case of distiess, it would be found of great value on a coast so 
 destitute of good harbours. 
 
 There is no water on Egg Island, but it may readily be obtained 
 from small streams on cither side of Roadstead Point. 
 
 It is extremely difficult to make out Egg Island at night, by 
 reason of the high land under which it lies, and which, coming 
 from the westward, attains its nearest approach to the sea 1^ 
 miles in rear of English Point. But this high land, whilst it 
 prevents the Island from being readily seen, points out its situa- 
 tion very nearly. 
 
 The rate of the tides between Egg Island and the main is from 
 a half to one knot, nnd part of the stream of ebb sets towards and 
 out through the narrow and dangerous 3 fathom channel between 
 the island and the North Rocks. Part of the stream of flood 
 comes in through the same channel. 
 Culitmtt Uiver, Calumet River is a small stream 2J miles W. by S. from the 
 S. W. end of Egg Island ; along the shore for a mile to the 
 south-westward of its entrance, there are reefs of large stones ex- 
 tending out 600 fathoms from the high water mark, and havi\ig 
 15 fathoms off them at the distance of half a mile to seaward. 
 To the S. W. of these reefs as far as Trinity Bay the coast is free 
 from danger, and may be approached with safety, if due caution 
 be used. There are 20 fathoms at the distance of from half a mile 
 to 1 mile, and 40 fatlxmis from 2 to 3 miles from the shore. 
 
 Caribou Point, 8j^ miles S. W. by S. from Egg Island, is a 
 small rocky peninsula, having sandy coves on either side of its 
 isthmus, in which pilot boats And shelter, and often remain on the 
 look out for vessels. 
 
 Trinity Bay is 5 miles further along the coast to the south- 
 ward and westward. It is 2 miles wide, and nearly ) mile deep, 
 with ft fine sandy beach extending from its S. W. point to Trinity 
 River, which is a small and rapid stream, abounding with trout 
 and salmon, whore water can be had only at high water, becaiiHC 
 of the large stones alutut its entrance. The S. W. |)oint of the 
 Buy is rocky, and uif the N. K. point theru are two low 
 
 Carilxm l\iiiil. 
 
 'I'riniiij llinj. 
 
THE SEVEN ISLANDS TO POINT DE MONTS, 
 
 125 
 
 ; Islet, for 
 ', from it in 
 y the lead. 
 , i'uvouritc 
 e of refuge 
 a coast 80 
 
 le obtained 
 
 ; night, by 
 ;h, coming 
 :he sea 1^ 
 , whilst it 
 t its situa- 
 
 ain is from 
 jwards and 
 icl between 
 m of flood 
 
 S. from the 
 nile to the 
 ? stones ex- 
 nnd having 
 to seaward, 
 coast is free 
 due caution 
 
 half a mile 
 
 shore. 
 Island, is a 
 
 side of its 
 main on the 
 
 1) the south- 
 I mile dei'ji, 
 it to Trinity 
 ; with trout 
 tcr, Itecaune 
 toint of llic 
 e two low 
 
 TrinityRaii 
 good stopping 
 place. 
 
 PHolt wait 
 there. 
 
 black rocks; the depth of water between the points of the 
 Bay is from 5 to 7 fathoms at low water over sandy bottom. This 
 Bay affords excellent anchorage, in a moderate depth of water, 
 with good ground, and plenty of room to get under weigh in 
 any wind. It is a very valuable stopping place, in westerly 
 wiuds, for vessels bound up the St. Lawrence, to wait their op- 
 portunity to proceed round Point de Monts, and up the Estuary. 
 Pilots arc generally found waiting in the Bay for vessels when the 
 wind is from the westward, but in easterly winds they take shelter 
 in St. Augustin Cove. 
 
 In running down along the land for Trinity Bay, either from Anchorage. 
 the N. E. or S. W. come no nearer than 15 fathoms until the Bay 
 opens ; then haul in, and anchor in 7 fathoms at low water ; with 
 the lighth(nise on Point dc Monts (seen just within a small rock 
 about Ij miles to the soiith-wcstward of the Bay) bearing S. W. 
 by W., the outer of the two rocks off the N. E. point of the Bay 
 N.E.;^E.,and the entrance of the river N. by W. ; the vessel 
 will then be rather more than three-quarters of a mile distant 
 from the S. W. point of the Bay. Large vessels may anchor 
 further out, and in deeper water, if they tiiink proper, and small 
 schooners in .1 fathoms close under the S. Wi point. 
 
 Point ue Monts LuiiiTiiousE is 5 miles to the south-west- 
 ward from Trinity Bay ; it stands low down and close to the sea, is 
 of tlie usual conical form, nearly wliite, and 75 feet high. The 
 lantern is elevated 100 feet above the sea at high water, showing 
 a Iniglit fixed light, which can be seen from distances of 15, 20, 
 and 23 miles nearly, accoiding as the height of the observer's eye 
 above the sea may be 10, 50, or 100 feet respectively. 
 
 Tlie extreme of the land to the north-eastward near Caribou 
 Point bears N.E. .J E. from the light, which can be seen over the 
 Point ; and that bearing continued will pass little more than 2J 
 miles ontnide of Egg Ixland ut the distancenf 20 miles from the light. 
 
 VcsbcIh beating to llie iiistwurd in a dark night, when the land 
 cannot be seen, had l)etter tack wlien tlie light bears W.S.W. 
 or even W. by S. will be near cnougli, if thuj be as near t(» 
 it as Trinity Bay. They nuiy, however, stand in nearer, using 
 due caution by the lead. Vennels to the westward of \\\c light 
 hhoidd tack us so(m as it bears E. .J N. ; it cannot be seen to tlie 
 houlliwaid of cast, in ct)n»e(iueiice of high land which interposes. 
 
 Point lie Monti 
 Ligliihuute. 
 
IC/ 
 
 ,i 
 
 m 
 
 IHi: 
 It 
 
 120 
 
 Detached 
 Rnckit off 
 Point de 
 Muntt. 
 
 Point de Monts 
 to Puiiil at, 
 Gilei. 
 
 St. Aiiijuttin 
 
 Ciive, 
 Ptlul: 
 
 ( 
 
 RIVEU ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 When it disappears, a vessel off Goodbout River will be only 
 one mile from the bar ; see art. 28. 
 
 The south extremity of Point de Monts is rather more than 
 IJ miles S. W. by W. f W. from the lighthouse. S.W. from the 
 light, S. E. from the extremity of the Point, and half a mile oIF 
 shore, lies a ledge of rocks with 9 or 10 feet least water. S. S. W., 
 half a mile from the light, is another rock with 2 fathoms least 
 water, and there is a third with little more water, and nearly as 
 far off from the light to the K. S. E. These dangers sliould be 
 carefully guarded against in making the liglit in thick weather, 
 or when keeping close to the land with a northerly wind, and 15 
 fathoms is quite near enough to them for a large vessel at any 
 tiracj being no more than 2 cables' distant from the llrst, and 
 about twice that distance from the 2 last of them. 
 
 55. The land, which on the eastern side of Point dc Monts is 
 rather low, begins to rise innnediutcly from tliat Point to the west- 
 ward, and granitic hills very sparingly wooded, and in no part es- 
 timated to exceed 1000 feet in height, form the norlli coast of 
 the Estuary to Point St, Giles, distant 30^ miles W. J N. from 
 Point de Monts. The section of coast just indicated is as bold as 
 any in the St. Lawrence, there being little or no warning by the 
 lead, neither is there any good anchorage suiBciently roomy for 
 the occasional use of shipping. 
 
 St. Augustin Covk, IJ miles westward of Point dc Monts, 
 affords shelter only to boats ; and pilots are generally found 
 waiting here with easterly winds. 
 
 Goodbout Rivkk, 8^ miles westward from Point de Monts, 
 enters the sea at the extremity of a i^andy point, and inis a bar of 
 sand, which extends out from the eastern point of entrance to tiic 
 distance of nearly half a mile, dries in great \);\vl at low water, 
 and is extremely bold to seaward. There is usually at low water 
 not more than 4 or 5 feet over this bar, on which a heavy surf 
 very frequently breaks ; and the River is only of use to boats, 
 because of the difficult and narrow entrance, although there are 
 15 or IG feet of water over the bar at high water, spring tides. 
 There is a trading and salmon fisluiig post of t!u; Iludtion H,iy 
 Company at this River, and the houKs ciin readily be seen. It is 
 jtossible to anchor on either side of tin !)nr of Goodbout River, 
 but too near to the shore to lie of general use. 
 
 C* 
 
POINT I)E MONTS TO IlEIJSIMIS RIVEU. 
 
 127 
 
 U be only 
 
 more than 
 !. from the 
 a mile oiF 
 . S.S.W., 
 lioms least 
 1 nearly as 
 should be 
 ;k weather, 
 1(1, and 15 
 sscl at any 
 ; ih'st, and 
 
 Ic Monts is 
 to the west- 
 no part cs- 
 th coast of 
 '. J N. from 
 8 us bold us 
 iiinj^ l)y the 
 y roomy for 
 
 t de Monts, 
 rally found 
 
 de Monts, 
 has a bur of 
 ranee to the 
 t low water, 
 at low water 
 I heavy surf 
 ice to boats, 
 jh there are 
 spring tides. 
 lud.MJn H.iy 
 
 Hi'cn. It is 
 ditiint Ri\iT, 
 
 Cape St. Nicholas, a higii bare point of granite, bears from C<'peSt. 
 Point de Monts \V. by N. 17 miles. 
 
 St. Nicholas Harbour is 3 miles N. E. by E. ^ E. from si. Mcho/at 
 the cape of the same name ; it is a narrow inlet between granitic "'"'""'"'• 
 hills from 500 to 700 feet in height,!^ miles in the direction of 
 N. W. ^N. This Ilarljour is so perfectly secure, that a vessel 
 might be laid en shore and repaired as if she were in a dock ; on 
 the S. W. side, a vessel may lie alongside of the rocks us along- 
 side a wharf. 
 
 There is as much as 9^ fathoms, at low water, in the deepest 
 part of the Harbour, and the bottom is of mud. 
 
 The breadth of the Harl)oiir within nowhere exceeds 190 
 fathoms, and at the entrance is only 75 fathoms. The shoals on 
 the east side of the entrance dry out so far as to leave a channel 
 between them and Cross Point only 30 fathoms wide, and 5 feet 
 deep at low water spring tides. 
 
 The depth that can be carried in at high water is from 14 to 17 
 feet, according as it may be neap or spring tides. The bottom in 
 the entrance is of sand, with some few large stones upon it, which 
 can be seen and avoided, if the tide be not high enough to ])ass 
 over them The entrance is situated in the centre of a small bay, 
 three-quarters of a mile wide, and rather more than one-(|uartcr 
 of a mile deep to the rocky point on the west side of the entrance 
 to the Harbour, which will be readily seen projecting out into the Cross Puini. 
 bay, and is named Cross Point, from a small wooden cross upon 
 it. An extensive shoal of sand and boulders, which dry at half 
 tide, extends from the east })oint of the bay 340 fathoms to the 
 W. S. W., and continues northward to the entrance of the Harbour. 
 This shoul can always be seen, is tjuitc bold, and completely shuts 
 out the sea from the Harbour in southerly and easterly winds. 
 The shoals on the west side extend across a small bay on the 
 west side of Cross Poini. and continue for 400 fathoms out to sea- 
 ward, extending otl'-shore to the distance of 100 fathoms. 
 
 The anchorage between tliese shoals, in the bay olf the Harbour's 
 mouth, is only 300 fathoms wide, and consequently too small to be 
 cousiilercd a nnuUtead for large vessels, but the ground is good, 
 and the depth convenient for anchoring preparatory to warping 
 into the Harbour. 
 
 South-east winds blow right into the Harbour, an<l are conse- 
 quently the most favourable for rinming in, Inil with a stron;; 
 
\if 
 
 ■a 
 
 U' 
 
 r 
 
 c 
 
 SI. Nicholas 
 Harbour. 
 
 Directmufor 
 entering. 
 
 128 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 wind in that direction, and at high water when the shoals are 
 covered, there is generally some sea outside the narrow entrance ; 
 an accident at such a time might be attended with serious conse- 
 quences, and therefore it is only in very fine weather that the 
 entrance should be attempted with a S. £. wind. 
 
 North-west winds blow right out of the Harbour, and often with 
 great violence. A W. S. W. wind is the safest for running in, 
 for the entrance and bay outside are then quite smooth, the sea 
 being turned off by Cape St. Nicholas ; but this wind will seldom 
 take a vessel completely in, it will usually only enable her to shoot 
 so far within Cross Point that a line may be sent ashore,, or a 
 kedge ahead, for the purpose of warping in the remainder of the 
 way, which may be qiiickly done if due preparation has been 
 made beforehand. 
 
 The entrance should be attempted in the last quarter flood, then 
 if the vessel touches the ground she will receive no damage, and 
 there will be time for her to warp in before the tide begins to fall. 
 
 To enter St. Nicholas Harbour attend to the following direc- 
 tions. Being off the mouth of the bay, bring the end of Cross 
 Point to bear N.N. E., then steer so nearly for it as to leayeitnot 
 more than 50 nor less than 30 yards distant on the larboard 
 hand. If the wind vill allow, continue to run in, at the same 
 distance from the shore on the west side, until you deepen your 
 water; but if you lose the wind, or be met with light baffling flaws 
 out of the Hiirbour, as often happens in westerly winds, send a 
 line on shore on the west side, or drop your anchor under foot as 
 soon us your vessel loses her way, and warp into deep water. The 
 Hh«)al water, which may he culled the bar, and commences at 
 Cross Point, continues for 200 fathoms within it, and the channel 
 is rendered narrow by shoals off the eaatorii side for an ctpial dis- 
 tance further up the Harbour. In order to have as niucli room as 
 possible, a vessel should anchor further in than the tlirec large rocks, 
 which will be seen on the eastern side of the Harbour. To run out 
 again a vessel must wait for a N. W. wind, or take advantage of 
 the hmdwind in the early part of the morning, wiiicli often orcurs 
 ill fine weather when westerly winds prevail ; or, lastly, she must 
 warp out, in a light breeze or calm, totlie entrunre nf the buy out- 
 side, and to a position from which she can make sail. 
 If„t(f._ There arc several small slrcams, hm ibc caslcin side of the Har- 
 
 bour, wheic water can be obtained, mid it can also be bad at lii^h 
 
POINT DE MONTS TO BRKSIMIS RIVEK. 
 
 lay 
 
 hoals are 
 
 entrance ; 
 
 U8 consc- 
 
 that the 
 
 often with 
 inning in, 
 ii, the sea 
 ill seldom 
 er to shoot 
 liore,, or a 
 der of the 
 has been 
 
 flood, then 
 mage, and 
 ;in8 to fall, 
 ring direc- 
 id of Cross 
 Icure it not 
 le larlward 
 ; the same 
 eepen your 
 .filing flaws 
 ids, send a 
 idcr foot as 
 ater. The 
 imonccs at 
 he channel 
 1 c(iual dis- 
 ich room as 
 large rocks, 
 To run out 
 Ivantagc of 
 fti.'n occurs 
 y, she must 
 he bay out- 
 
 of tlu' lliir- 
 had at lii^h 
 
 >watcr from tlie two small rivers ul the head of the inlet. The stones 
 on the bar of this Harbour might be easily removed, and I ascer- 
 tained, by boring, that the channel might be deepened to any 
 ■extent that might be desirable. 
 
 St. Pancras Cove, 9 miles W. N. W. from Cape St. Nicholas, S'- P-innai 
 being only 160 fathoms wide, between steep rocks, and open to 
 the southward, with very deep water, is of no use to vessels. 
 There are 32 fathoms in its entrance, shoaling gradually to H 
 fathoms within a quarter of a mile of its head. The sea is never 
 heavy in it, and a vessel might be saved there in time of need. 
 It affords shelter to boats. 
 
 English Bay, between Point St. Pancras and St. Giles Point, 
 aifords no good anchorage, in consetjuence of the great deptli of 
 water ; a heavy sea rolls into it in easterly winds, and its shores 
 are high and rocky. A vessel might anchor close to the shore on 
 its west side, in 16 or 17 fathoms at low water, and be well shel- 
 tered from all but easterly winds ; but she would be in great 
 danger if a strong wind from that quarter came in, since there 
 would be no possibility of weathering the eastern side of the 
 Manicouagou Shoals dm ing the flood tide. 
 
 56. Point St. Giles is 13^ miles W.by N. from Cape St. Pomi si. oi/vx. 
 Nicholas, and is high and rocky, like tlie coast to the cast- 
 ward; while Manicouagou Point, which is 17^ miles W. by S. 
 from Cape St. Nicholas, is low and tliickly wooded, with a 
 broad sandy beach, like the rest of the coai.t westward to Outard 
 Bay. 
 
 This complete change in the character of tl>e coast points out 
 to a vessel her approach towards the dangerous Manicouagou 
 Slioals. 
 
 The entrance of the Manicouagou lies between the above two Arimimmh/uii 
 points, and is all dry at low water, with the exception of the "*^'* 
 narrow channels whicii lead up to the river. 
 
 Tlie principal chaimel is on the north side, and there is a A>«;7/< c/mnncf, 
 deep place, or large hole, in it, ij miles long, from half to .inrliorin/e 
 n (|uarter of a mile wide, and from 3 to 5 fathoms deep at low ""'''• 
 water, with muddy bottom. TItis large liole is close to I'oiiit 
 St. Giles, and extends 1 1 miles within it. Althougli tiiis place 
 appears completely open to easterly winds, no swell of consecpience 
 rolls into it, and 1 believe a vessel well nuiorcd on its north side 
 within Poiui St. Giles would he in safely. But to get in there it 
 
fa 
 
 \v 
 
 ■J 
 
 i30 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 »■ 
 
 MamcotiagoH 
 River. 
 
 Bar. 
 
 is necessary to pass over a bar formed by the eastern part of the 
 Manicouagon Shoal. 
 
 This Bar extends out 2 miles to the eastward from Point 
 St. Giles, it has 7 feet over it at low water, and from 14 to 19 feet 
 at high water, according as it may be neap or spring tides. The 
 outside of the Bar is extremely bold, there being 30 fathoms sandy 
 bottom close to it, and 50 fathoms mud bottom at the di^nce 
 of one mile. The Bar then sweeps round till it joins the Mani- 
 couagon Shoal, which consists of sand with occasional boulders, 
 and which is dry at low water for nearly 5 miles out in an 
 E. by N. direction, from the northern end of Manicouagon 
 Peninsula. 
 
 This is altogether too wild and dangerous a place to be of 
 general use to vessels, but as, nevertheless, it might prove of use 
 in time of need, I give the following brief directions for en- 
 tering it. 
 Directions for Bring Point St. Giles to bear W. by S., with Point St. Pancras, 
 'uj^"''"^"^' the eastern point of English Bay bearing north at the same time. 
 Then steer directly for Point St. Giles ; and when the head of 
 English Bay bears north and Point St. Pancras N. E., you will 
 be close to the bar. Continue to run over the bar on the same 
 course, W. by S., until the points on the west side of English 
 Bay bear N. by £. i^ E. ; you will then lie within 1 mile of Point 
 St. Giles, and must keep away a couple of points to the southward 
 along the southern edge of the Shoal, which dries at low water off 
 that Point, until you open out the Points on the north side of 
 Manicouagon Bay to the southward of Point St. Giles; then haul 
 up again so as to pass that Point at the distance of a cable's 
 length, and anchor half a mile within it, in 3 or 4 fathoms at low 
 water. 
 
 Six miles west from Point St. Giles, the shallow channels 
 between the Shoals unite in the inner entrance of the River, 
 which is there narrow and 4 fathoms deep. The Falls, where 
 the River discharges a great body of water down a narrow and 
 sloping channel between steep granite rocks, are 3 miles further 
 up in a N.W. direction, and a Iraat may approach close to 
 them. 
 
 The ebb runs out over the Manicouagon Bar to the eastward 
 at tlie rate of about l}j knots, and the flood is nearly as 
 strong. 
 
 FaUt. 
 
 Tidu, 
 
POINT DE MONTS TO BERSIMIS RIVER. 
 
 131 
 
 rt of the 
 
 im Point 
 to 19 feet 
 les. The 
 )m8 sandy 
 J distance 
 he Mani- 
 1 boulders, 
 )ut in an 
 .nicouagon 
 
 > to be of 
 ■ove of use 
 as for en- 
 
 t. Pancras, 
 same time. 
 lie head of 
 !., you will 
 I the same 
 of English 
 ile of Point 
 3 southward 
 w water off 
 )rth side of 
 1 ; then haul 
 if a cable's 
 loms at low 
 
 iw chaunels 
 f the River, 
 i'alls, where 
 narrow and 
 iiiles further 
 ,ch close to 
 
 the eastward 
 8 nearly as 
 
 The Manicouagon Shoal is of sand, with many lai^e boulders ManL-omgon 
 scattered about its eastern and southern parts, and probably depo- 
 sited there by the ice. The most eastern point of this dangerous 
 and extensive Shoal is distant 2j miles from Point St. Giles in an Eattem Point. 
 E. S. E. direction, and 5J miles E. by N. from the N- E. :;nd of 
 Manicouagon Peninsula. 
 
 The bearing of S. W. by S. from Pancras Cove passes/ along 
 the eastern side of the Shoal, which is so bold that thnre are 60 
 fathoms of water at the distance of little more than 1 \ miles, and 
 40 fathoms at half that distance from the breakers. On this side 
 the Shoal dries nearly out to its edge in low tides. The south 
 point of the Shoal extends 2^ miles to the southward of Maui- Soiufieni Point. 
 couagon Point, and here only is there any sufficient warning by 
 the deep sea lead. With the extremes of Manicouagon Point 
 bearing from N. to N. W. by N., 60 fathoms over a bottom of 
 very fine sand will be found at the distance of 3j^ miles from the 
 3 fathom mark, to which the water shoals gradually, till close to 
 it, where there are 11 fathoms. The Shoal dries out in low tides, 
 in this part, and also further to the westward, from 1 to 1^ miles 
 from the beach. 
 
 The Shoal continues from its south point to the westward for W«/er« Point. 
 a distance of 16 miles, the outline of its edge corrcspon ling to the 
 shape of the sandy shore as far as Outard Point, off which it 
 extends to the southward 1 J miles, and, filling up all the eastern 
 part of Outard Bay, stretches out its western point fully 3j miles 
 W. by S. from Outard Point. 
 
 There is often a very heavy sea, particularly in a weather tide, 
 off this Shoal, but all the terrific accounts which have been cir- 
 culated of " strong and irregular eddies," in which vessels will 
 not answer their helms during a fresh gale of wind, " and can 
 with difficulty be kept from running on the bank, or driving 
 against each other," are entirely unfounded. But without that 
 exaggeration a shoal which extends so far from a low part of the 
 coast, which is difficult to be made out at night, and which has 
 such deep water close to it, must be sufficiently dangerous to 
 demand the utmost prudence and vigilance of the seaman, without 
 alarming him with imaginary perils. The tides are tolerably re- TulfK awl lli/i. 
 gular, and not very strong along the Shoal. I do not think that l''"'9'' 
 the rate of either tide exceeds 2 knots at any time, and I am 
 certain that it is usually much less. But great ripplings arc met 
 
 k2 
 

 
 132 
 
 i 
 
 c 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Atniiicoiiaffon 
 S/iua/. 
 
 Oiitaril River. 
 
 Fa/h. 
 
 with occasionally, both near the shoals, and in the offing, where 
 they are caused, as in other parts of the Estuary, by the unequal 
 velocities or the opposing directions of the streams, as will be readily 
 imagined when it is remembered that the current is always down 
 on the south side, slack in the middle, and up during the flood on 
 the north side of the Estuary. (Art. 15.) These rij)plings are 
 very common off the eastern and southern parts of the Mani- 
 couagon Shoal, where I have observed them to move much faster 
 than the streams of the tides, as was evident by their passing by 
 the vessel in a calm. They often give to the tides the appearance 
 of a rapidity which does not exist. 
 Ouiard Point. Outard Point is 11 miles to the westward of the south extremity 
 of Manicouagon Point, and the shore between them is of low 
 sandy clifis, with a sandy beach. 
 
 Outard River flows on the north side of the Point of tlie 
 same name, and can be ascended by boats to the Falls, over 
 granitic rocks, which are 7 miles, N. E. by E., from the Point. 
 These Falls are only 1 J miles from the Manicouagon River. The 
 two rivers therefore form the low sandy country, between Points 
 Outard and Manicouagon, into a great peninsula, which has pro- 
 bably been produced by the rivers in the course of ages. 
 
 The entrance to Outard River is by several intricate and narrow 
 channels tlirough the western part of the Manicouagon Shonl, and 
 as there are only 2 or 3 feet of water through these channels at 
 low water, for the distance of 4 or 5 miles, the place is useless to 
 vessels, and therefore requires no further description. 
 
 The water of this River holds a white earth suspended, and 
 frequently covers the whole surface of Outard Bay, floating on the 
 heavier sea water beneath, and giving the whole Bay the apjjcar- 
 ance of being shoal. A vessel sailing through this superstratum 
 of fresh water displaces it, and leaves a blue streak in her wake. 
 
 OuTARO Bay, between Outard and Bcrsimis Points, has 3 
 small rocky islands in it, whicli appear as two from seaward, aiul 
 serve to distinguish the Bay to strangers ; they are far within the 
 edge of the shoals, which extend quite round the Bay, and occupy 
 tlip greater part of it, being a continuation of the Manicouagon 
 Shoal. The water in this Bay is too deep close to the shoal for 
 convenient iineliorngc, which is quite exposed to easterly winds. 
 
 Tlie anchorage is on the west side, of the Bay, in 14 fathoms at 
 low water, over muddy bottom, with Bersiuiis Point bearing 
 
 n'/iile Wattr 
 
 Outard Bay. 
 
 Anehorwic 
 
 
POINT 1>E MONTS TO nERSIMIS RIVER. 
 
 133 
 
 r, where 
 unequal 
 e readily 
 ys down 
 flood on 
 lings are 
 le Mani- 
 ch faster 
 vssiug by 
 ipearance 
 
 extremity 
 is of low 
 
 nt of tlie 
 alls, over 
 he Point, 
 iver. The 
 eu Points 
 1 has pro- 
 
 nd narrow 
 
 Shoal, and 
 
 liannels at 
 
 useless to 
 
 ended, and 
 ting on the 
 he appear- 
 iperstratum 
 her wake, 
 ints, has 3 
 award, and 
 r within the 
 and occupy 
 [anicouagon 
 he shoal for 
 ;rly winds. 
 i fathoms nt 
 )int bearing 
 
 S. W. by S. 3:^ miles. Manicouagon Point will then be open Outant Dui/. 
 
 3 or 4 degrees to the s" ..vard of Outard Point, the south side 
 
 of which will bear E. by N., the first rocky point north-eastward 
 
 of the river N. by W., and the vessel will be nearly half a mile 
 
 from the 3 fatliom edge of the shoal on the west side of the Bay ; 
 
 small vessels may lie closer in 7 or 8 fathoms. 
 
 In standing in for this anchorage with a westerly wind, beware 
 of the bar of Bersimis River, which is extremely steep. If you 
 can make out the first rocky point to the north-eastward of, the 
 River, and which bears from its entrance N. N. E. 4j miles, take 
 care that it does not bear to the eastward of north, and you will 
 clear the bar. When you have past it, you may haul in to the 
 northward into soundings, going no nearer than 10 fathoms. 
 
 Vessels may anchor for a distance of three-quarters of a 
 mile on either side of the position which I have pointed out, 
 either further out to the S. S. W. towards Bersimis Point, or 
 towards the small islands to the N. E., but the berth which I 
 have indicated is the best. The tides are not strong in Outard 
 Bay. 
 
 Bersimis River enters the sea to the eastward, and If miles Bersimis 
 N. E. from the south extremity of the Point of the same name. "''^'^' 
 The south side of entrance of the River for more than three- 
 quarters of a mile is of low and bare sand. The opposite point of 
 entrance is also of sand, and bears N.N.W. at the distance of 
 rather more than a mile from the south point, but this wide 
 mouth of the River is closed by sands dry at low water with the 
 exception of a very narrow channel. The River within for the 
 first 3 miles is wide and full of sand shoals. 
 
 The Bar is of sand, which dries in parts at low water, and Bar. 
 shifts frequently, being completely exposed to southerly and 
 easterly gales ; it extends nearly \\ miles to the eastward of the 
 south point of entrance. Directions for entering the River must 
 therefore be useless ; but it may be as well to remark, that within 
 the bar the channel is always close to the south point of entrance, 
 and keeps on that side through the wide part within with a deptli 
 of 9 feet at low water. The depth that could be carried in 
 over tlie bar, in the month of July, was 6 feet at low water, and 
 from 13 to 18 feet at high water, according as it niighi l)e neap 
 or spring tides. 
 
 This River (Hsiiiarget. a great volume of water, especially in 
 
 i; H 
 
134 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Timber. 
 
 1. 
 
 I 
 
 
 rv, 
 
 JM 
 
 "' ■; 
 
 esEn 
 
 (t. ■ ir i 
 
 jjjl^vi 
 
 15- ' 
 
 H 
 
 Tides in the 
 Rivtr, 
 
 the spring of the year, and the water is fresh enough for drinking, 
 when the tide is out, 2 miles within its entrance. 
 Bemmis FuUs. The Bersimis River is navigable to the Falls, which are 30 or 
 40 feet high, and over granitic rocks. These i^alls are distant - 
 30 miles N.W. iN., in a direct line from the south point of 
 entrance ; but the distance is nearly 40 miles by following the 
 windings of the river. The banks of the river are high and 
 precipitous, being either of granite or cliffs of sand and gravel over 
 clay. The basins and valleys between the hills are filled with 
 these last-named deposits, which support a heavy-growth of trees 
 of the pine and spruce species. There is good timber to be met 
 with occasionally. The breadth of the river varies from 100 to 300 
 fathoms, and its depth is usually from 2 to 5 fathoms : there is a 
 place in which the depth amounts to 12 fathoms; but 2 fathoms 
 is as much as could be carried up to the foot of the Falls. 
 
 The stream of the flood tide is felt 10 miles up the river; and 
 6 miles up the channel is contracted by shoals of sand and 
 boulders to the breadth of 50 fathoms for the distance of 1 mile. 
 Through this narrow part the ebb runs 4 knots ; above it, the rate 
 of the current is from 1 to 2^ knots. Boats could row up this 
 River to the foot of the Falls, and a steamer could ascend it with 
 ease ; but the winds are generally too light and baffling between 
 its high banks for a sailing vessel. 
 
 57. Bersimis Point is low, of sand, wooded with spruce trees, 
 and difficult to be seen at night. On its east side, the low south 
 point of the river extends to the distance of two miles from the 
 trees, and the Bar 1:^ miles further ; and to the southward, the 
 sand shoal extends three-quarters of a mile from the sandy beach, 
 yet it is so bold that the lead affords no warning, there being 60 
 fathoms muddy bottom at the distance of a mile from the edge of 
 the shoal. On the east and west sides of the Point the shoals are 
 equally steep, so that this Point is very dangerous, especially to 
 vessels beating at night or in foggy weather. From the south 
 extremity of Bersimis Point, Manicouagon Point bears E.N.E. iE. 
 21 miles ; and Point Mille Vaches S.W. byW. JW. 29 miles. In 
 all this last-named distance, if the extreme points be excepted, 
 vessels will find, by reference to the chart, that the soundings off 
 the sliore afford some warninc;, although there are parts where 
 ^jvciit ciuition is necessary. 
 
 TIic tidcB arc regular, but the flood is rather stronger tiian the 
 
 lieriimis 
 I'oiHi. 
 
BERSIMIS RIVER TO THE SAGUENAY. 
 
 135 
 
 Colomlier, 
 
 ebb within 6 miles from the shore, where the rate of either, Tidt»offBet- 
 as far as I have seen, never exceeds Ij^ knots, and is often 
 much less. 
 
 The low sandy shore continues 5j miles W.|N. from Bersimis Jeremy hland. 
 Point to Jeremy Island, which is very small, rocky, and close 
 to the shore. There is a trading post of the Hudson Bay Com- 
 pany on the main, the buildings of which can usually be seen, 
 but if not, its position will always be known by some patches 
 of white sand and clay cliffs, which are close to the eastward of 
 the island. Vessels may stand in by the lead, and anchor off this 
 place; but it is a bad anchorage, and the shoal water extends 
 a mile out from the shore. 
 
 Cape Colombier, 5 miles from Jeremy, along a rocky and Cape 
 broken shore, in a S.W. by W. JW. direction, is a rocky peninsula, 
 with a small islet on its west side. 
 
 The Gulnare Shoal, discovered by us in 1830, is a narrow Gulnare 
 ridge of granite rock nearly 2 miles long, parallel to the shore, and "" * 
 having from 2 to 3 fathoms over it at low water. The S.W. end of 
 •his Shoal bears S.byE., and its N.E. end S.E. byE.^E. from 
 Cape Colombier, from which they are distant If miles. The 
 inner or north side of Laval Island nearly on with Point Orient, 
 the east point of the Bale de Laval, and bearing west, leads clear 
 outside of this Shoal at the distance of 2 cables' length, and in 
 20 fathoms of water. It is very dangerous, there being 23 fathoms 
 close to the S. W. end, and also along its southern side. There 
 are 4 or 5 fathoms between it and the shore. 
 
 Wild Fowl Reef, S.W. byW.^W., 4 miles from Cape WW Fow/ 
 Colombier, is a large bed of rocks, extending three-quarters of *'"^" 
 a mile from the shore between Plongeur Bay and the Baie de 
 Laval. There are 9 fathoms off this Reef at the distance of 
 one-third of a mile. 
 
 Plongeur Bat, between that Reef and Cape Colombier, may Plongeur Bay. 
 be known by a round and rocky peninsula on its west side. 
 The inner part of this Bay is full of rocks dry at low water, and 
 the whole Bay is shoal out to the line joining Wild Fowl Reef 
 and Cape Colombier. 
 
 Vessels should be careful in standing in towards the part o{ /Approach to 
 this coast from Wild Fowl Reef to the Gulnare Shoal inclusive : 
 30 fathoms is quite near enough, as they will see by the sdiuidings 
 in the chart. But to the south-westward (jf the Reef, until 
 
 I' i 
 
 » 
 
13C 
 
 KJVER ST. I AWRKNCK. 
 
 Ki 
 
 e 
 
 
 w 
 
 
 (fr-.. 
 
 ■r» 
 
 r" 
 
 ■*^' 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 within 2 miles of Port Ncuf, they may stand in to (i fathoms 
 at low water with safety. 
 
 littie tie Laval. The Baie de Laval, 4 miles west from the Wild Fowl Reef, 
 and 8^ miles N. E.byN. from Port Neuf, will be known by the 
 rocky island in its mouth, and by the clay cliffs which commence 
 1^ miles to the S. W. of it, and continue to within the same 
 distance of Port Neuf. 
 
 This Bay within the island is all dry at low water. Vessels may 
 safely stand in towards it, the water shoaling gradually from 10 
 fathoms, which is at the distance of 2j miles from the shore. 
 
 There is a good anchorage in 6 or "7 fathoms, over clay bottom, 
 off the clay cliffs above mentioned. 
 
 Port Keiif. ^^ Port Neuf there is a fur-trading and salmon-fishing estab- 
 
 lishment, belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, who have 
 a lease of the seignory of Port Neuf. At this post, which stands 
 upon a steep sandy bank, and is 4 miles to the N. E. of Point 
 Mille Vaches, there is a small wooden church for the Indians, a 
 dwelling-house, a store, and several smaller buildings. These 
 can readily be seen by a vessel off the coast. 
 
 S. S. E. from the church, and distant nearly three-quarters of a 
 mile, is the S.W. end of a low and narrow sandy peninsula, with 
 a clump of pine or spruce trees upon it, and which extends 
 nearly 2 miles to the N.N. E., where it joins the sand and clay 
 cliffs, which have been previously mentioned. 
 
 The entrance to Port Neuf River is from the S. W., and 
 between this sandy peninsula and the post on the main land, 
 but is so shallow that a boat cannot enter it at low water. At the 
 junction of the peninsula with the sand and clay cliffs, the River 
 turns abruptly inland : its sandy channel is too shallow for a boat 
 at low water below that turn; and at the distance of I ^ miles 
 above it rapids commence. Fronx 1 to 12 feet water may be 
 carried in at high water between the peninsula and the main 
 land, according as it may be neap or spring tide, and a small 
 vessel may lie safely aground on the sand. 
 
 Sand Paiuh. E. by N. from the S. W. end of the sand and clay cliffs, 
 
 N. E.byE. ^E. from the church at Port Neuf, and l^- miles 
 from the cliffu, lies a patch of sand, with 3J fathoms least water, 
 which might l)c dangerous to a large vessel in a heavy sea. This 
 may be considered as the conunenccnient of the Port Ncuf and 
 Millr Vadics Shoals. 
 
 I'orl Neuf 
 River. 
 
IlERSIMIS RIVER TO THK SAGUENAY. 
 
 137 
 
 The Port Neuf Sands are exceedingly steep on every bearing Port Neuf 
 to the southward of east from Port Neuf, and to the eastward of *"'"'*• 
 south from Point Mille Vaches. Off Port Neuf they extend 
 three-quarters of a mile out from the sandy peninsula. 
 
 Half way between Port Neuf and Point Mille Vaches is the 
 widest part of these sands, which there extend 1 J miles from the 
 beach. There are from 20 to 30 fathoms close along their edge, 
 and from 40 to 50 fathoms at the distance of 1 mile. 
 
 58. Point Mille Vaches is low, sandy, and wooded with M//e Faches 
 spruce trees. From its south extremity the N. W. reef of Bicquette 
 l)eins S. S. E.i E , 12j miles ; and the navigable breadth of the 
 channel is diminished by the Mille Vaches Shoals to little more 
 than 11^ miles. As the dangers on either side are so bold, and as 
 the course of a vessel running up the Estuary must ever be more 
 or less uncertain in consequence of the set of the tides and currents, 
 tliis pass is justly considered dangerous to a vessel running up in 
 dark nights or foggy weather. The only safe mode of proceeding, 
 under such circumstances, is that which I have recommended in 
 Art. 25. 
 
 The Bay of Mille Vaches, on the west side of the point of MiUe luchei 
 the same name, is very large, with several small rivers, which 
 descend by falls or rapids down the granitic shores. The prin- 
 cipal of these rivers is the Sault de Mouton, 4^ miles west from 
 the Point, and which has a fall of 80 feet visible from a vessel 
 when abreast of it. All the interior of this Bay is occupied by 
 shoals of sand, mud, and large boulders, which dry at low 
 water. 
 
 In the western part of it the shoals are extremely steep and 
 dangerous, but from where the Sault de Mouton bears north 
 to where Point Mille Vaches comes upon the same bearing, com- 
 prising a space of 4^ miles, there is a complete warning by the 
 lead ; the depth being 30 fathoms upwards of 2 miles from the 
 3 fathom edge of the shoals. 
 
 There is anchorage in this Bay in 15 fathoms, sand and mud Anchorage. 
 bottom, with the south extremity of Point Mille Vaches, or with 
 the inner or north side of the pine trees on the peninsula of Port 
 Neuf, bearing N. E. i E. at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the 
 Point, and three-quarters of a mile from the shoals. The shelter 
 is from S. W. by W. round by north to N. E. by E. The ground is 
 good and there is not much tide. 
 
vm 
 
 k 
 
 138 
 
 'titi 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 
 Etqudmne 
 Jiieli, 
 
 Tide*. 
 
 Qrtat and 
 little Berge- 
 ron Covet. 
 
 The course and distance across the Bay of Mille Vaches to two 
 large rocks, which have three small ones nearly a mile to the S. W. 
 of them, and are called the Esquamine Islets, is S. W. | W., 
 nearly 12 miles. ,..i t. . • r 
 
 The coast to the south-westward, from the Esquamine Islets to 
 Little Bergeron, a distance of 16 miles, consists of granite rock, 
 steep and bold, and free from all danger, excepting a flat which 
 occupies a bay on the west side of Cape Bondeair, but which doet 
 not extend above a quarter of a mile outside of a line joining the 
 points of the bay, and is consequently very little in the way of 
 vessels. There are upwards of 53 fathoms water close to the 
 rocks along this part of the coast. 
 
 The tides are regular, increasing in strength as we approach 
 the comparatively narrow pass on either side of Red Islet. 
 The flood is the stronger tide of the two, the ebb being deflected 
 over towards the southern shore by the stream out of the great river 
 Saguenay. The flood does not extend above 5 or 6 miles off the 
 north shore below Bergeron, and the closer to that shore the 
 stronger is the stream. Its rate at Point Mille Vaches, where 
 it does not extend far off-shore, is from 1-^ to 2 knots; and off 
 Bergeron from 2 to 3 knots, in spring tides. 
 
 Great and Little Bergeron are two coves separated by 
 a point. They are both full of large boulders, which dry at low 
 water, and have small streams at their heads. Little Bergeron is 
 of the two the most to the S. W. From it Green Island light 
 bears S. byE.J^E. llj^ miles, and the Saguenay Cliffs, at the 
 cast point of entrance of the River, S. W. by W. 5j^ miles. 
 
 I terminate this chapter at Little Bergeron, because the shoals 
 off the entrance of the Saguenay, and the passage between them 
 and Red Islet, belong, according to the arrangement which 
 I have adopted, to Part the Second of these Directions. 
 
GULF FROM LAKE ISLAND TO NATASHQUAN. 
 
 139 
 
 (Sf.f .< '--It, 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE NORTH COAST OF TUB GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE, FROM LAKK 
 ISLAND TO THE RIVER ST. JOHN, INCLUDING THE MINGAN 
 ISLANDS. 
 
 where 
 
 5'J. General Description of the Coast, from Lake Island to Natashquan 
 Point.— 60. Whittle Rocks, Wolf Bay and Islands.— 61. Coacoacho Bay 
 and its Harbours. — 62. Olomanoshuebo, Wash-shecootai, and Miis- 
 quarro. — 63. Kegashka Bay. Kegashka River, and the Coast between 
 it and Natashquan Point. Mont Joli. Cod Banks. — 64. General 
 Description uf the Coast from Natashquan Fbint to the Mingan Islands. 
 — 65. Natashquan River, Little Natashquan Harbour, Washtawooka, 
 Agwanus, and Nabesippi Rivers. Pashasheebo. Mushkoniatawee. 
 Washatnaguuashka. Watcheeshoo. Quetachoo-Manicouagun. Peash- 
 tebai. Appeeletat. — 66. The Mingan Islands, general Description. 
 — 67. St. Genevieve and Hunting Islands. T^e Saints. Bowen 
 Rocks. The Harbours of St. Genevieve and Betchewun. — 68. Charles 
 Island and the Bays on either side of it. Charles Harbour. — 69. Clear- 
 water Shoals. Walrus and Sea-Cow Islands with the Channels 
 leading to Esquimaux Harbour. Green, Gull, Esquimaux, Fright, and 
 Quin Islands, with their Reefs, and the Channels between them. 
 Quin Channel. — 70. Esquimaux Harbour. — 71. Niapisca Island. 
 Quarry Island, and Cove. Quarry Channel. Large Island. Middle 
 Reef. Birch Islands. Mingun Island. The Perroquets. — 72. Mingan 
 Channel between the Islands and the Main. Mingan Harbour. Long 
 Point to St. John River. 
 
 59. From Cape Whittle, the S.W. point of Lake Island, to Coaiifium 
 Natashquan Point, the course is S. 85° i W. true, or N. 66* W. ',^'sJ^'X^an. 
 magnetic, and the distance 63 miles. With the exception of the 
 first 13 miles eastward of Natashquan Point, where the shore is 
 of sand, this coast is of granite, which rises into steep hills and 
 ridges, with rounded summits, having between them morasses 
 and stagnant ponds. The mainland is seldom higher tlian 200 
 feet, even in the heads of the bays, and it diminishes in height 
 luwnrdts the sen, ns do also the innumerable small islands, isletH, 
 nnd rockd, which fringe the coast, and which in some parts extend 
 fully 5 miles from the nearest point of the mainland. The islands 
 
p' T 
 
 
 1 ' 
 
 
 ;f 
 
 
 >■■ 
 
 f 
 
 ll 
 
 1 
 
 mi 
 
 
 S I 
 
 
 m ^ 
 
 
 S f 
 
 
 i; 1 
 
 
 
 
 ■■"1 , s 
 
 
 C,:: '. 
 
 
 « 
 
 
 « 
 
 
 M. 
 
 
 
 
 
 t '. 
 
 
 m- 
 
 
 « i' 
 
 
 c ; 
 
 
 *■, 
 
 
 ^ • 
 
 
 t 
 
 
 t ■ 
 
 
 tr> 
 
 
 ll 
 
 
 
 
 P !t 
 
 1 
 
 i >« 
 
 1: 
 
 * 
 
 • 
 
 140 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE, 
 
 Ihfficull to 
 recognize. 
 
 The Rocks are 
 sterp to. 
 
 Tidea. 
 
 t 
 
 arc bare of wood, and so also is the main, excepting up the bays 
 or where sandy tracts occur, which are always covered with a 
 thick growth of spruce, with occasional birch and poplar. 
 
 Seen from the distance of 4 or 5 leagues, this coast presents an 
 outline so little diversified, that it is nearly impossible to dis- 
 tinguish one part of it from another; and it is only when a vessel 
 approaches within 3 or 4 miles of the outer rocks, that its broken 
 and dangerous nature becomes apparent. 
 
 The outer rocks, both above and under water, are so bold that 
 there is no warning from the use of the hand-lead ; but, there are 
 soundings with the deep sea-lead in moderate, but irregular, depths 
 off every part of this coast. These deep water soundings are too 
 irregular to admit of a concise description ; I must, therefore, 
 refer to the chart, with the remark, that they are sufficient to 
 warn a vessel of her approach towards danger at night, or in fogs, 
 sine? these depths do not amount to 50 fathoms at any less distance 
 than 5 miles from the outer rocks. 
 
 The tides are weak, irregular, and influenced, both in their 
 strength and direction, by the winds. For the time of high water 
 on the full and change days, and the rise of the tide at different 
 places, see table at the end of the book 
 *»'Ai«/c RocAi. 60. There are many small rocks above and under water, off to 
 the southward and westward from Cape Whittle. The two outer- 
 most of these, which are half-tide rocks, are distant from the 
 cape 2^ miles, and are called the Whittle Rocks. All these 
 rocks are steep, with from 20 to 40 fathoms uf water between 
 tlicm, and small fishing and egging schooners find their way 
 among them, as they do almost everywhere among the islands and 
 rocks of this coast, being guided by the eye ; for every danger 
 u|'on which such small veisBcls would strike can be seen in clear 
 weather. 
 
 Woi.K Bay, the first to the westward of Cajie Whittle, is 6 or 7 
 miles deep. There is plenty of water in its intricate channels, 
 and no dangers that do not show, but a number of rocks and 
 ledges extend across its mouth from Cape Whittle to Wolf Is'-^nd, 
 and are bo ncattered about that no directions would be of the least 
 use. If ever any circunistunces should render it desirnblc fur ii 
 vessel to enter so dangerous a place, it can (tiiiy In; done by look- 
 ing out fur the ledges from the must-head, or fore-yard, in fine 
 
 H'utf Buy. 
 
LAKE ISLAND TO NATASHQUAN. 
 
 141 
 
 the bays 
 1 with a 
 
 esents an 
 e to dis- 
 n a veesel 
 ts broken 
 
 bold that 
 , there are 
 ar, depths 
 igB are too 
 therefore, 
 ifficient to 
 or in fogs, 
 38 distance 
 
 th in their 
 [ligh water 
 it different 
 
 ater, off to 
 two outer- 
 t from the 
 
 All these 
 •r between 
 
 their way 
 islands and 
 ery danger 
 :en in clear 
 
 tie, is 6 or 7 
 e channels, 
 rocks and 
 Volf Isi<nd, 
 of the least 
 iriihlc for u 
 )iic by look- 
 ird, in fine 
 
 clear weather, or by avoiding the broken water when there is a 
 heavy sea running. ..... 
 
 Wolf Island may be easily recognized, being higher and larger Woif Island. * 
 than the outer islands usually are off this part of the coast. It . , ^^ ,(. 
 is about three-quarters of a mile long, and makes in two hills, >' 
 
 which are about 150 feet high. 
 
 Outer Islet is small, low, and about 1 mile further off to the S. W. Onier hiet. 
 than Wolf Island. As its name implies it is the outermost of a 
 chain of islands, which extends 4 or 5 miles out from the point 
 of the mainland dividing Wolf and Coacoacho Bays. It bears 
 W. N. W. i W. 7 miles from Cape Whittle. 
 
 61. Coacoacho Bay is the only place affording anchorage Comoacho Hai/. 
 to large vessels upon this part of the coast. It is not at all 
 difficult of entrance, although the number of islets and rocks in 
 every direction make it appear so. There is an excellent harbour 
 in the head of the bay, called the Basin, and another formed 
 y an arm running into the E. by N. and named Tertiary Shell 
 Jay, which is equally safe. Further out than these harbours 
 the bay is more than half a mile wide, and quite sufficiently 
 sheltered from the sea, for the safety of any vessel with good 
 anchors and cables. Coacoacho means a great owl. 
 
 To enter this bay, attend to the following description and 
 directions ; Outer Islet, Wolf Island, a d the islets and rocks 
 between them and the mainland, may be considered as forming 
 the south-eastern side of the bay ; and the Audubon Islets and 
 Rocks, as forming the north-western side of the bay. The 
 entrance of the bay is, therefore, between the two extreme points, 
 which beiir from each other N. by W. and S. by E., and are 
 distant about 2i^ miles. 
 
 There are two small and dangerous ledges outside, off the en- 
 trance of the buy. The first, which is culled tlic South Breaker, Souih Itrenkev, 
 shows only in heavy wcatlier, and has 12 feet least water. It bears 
 W. N. W. JW. 2 miles from Outer Islet, and there is a clear channel 
 between it and the islet. It lies furtiier out than any other danger 
 off tiiis division nf the coast, and has from 18 to 20 fatiioms of 
 watrr all round and close to it. 
 
 The S. W. Ureiiker has only 3 feet least water, and l)ears N. W. South- H'rtt 
 hyN., 2i miles from the Sonlli Breaker, und west, 2J miles from 
 Point Audubon, 'i'iu'ie is a clear and deep channel between these 
 two ledges, which may be eioiily avoided liy the cimrt, or if tl\e 
 
 ■i 
 
3 
 
 142 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 B^ 
 
 
 "I 
 
 
 weather be clear they will be readily seen from the fore-yard of 
 any vessel. 
 DireeHont/or In running for Coacoacho Bay from the S. E., steer so as to leave 
 ''^' Outer Islet, and the rocks to the northward of it, about 300 
 fathoms to the eastward of you. When abreast of these rocks, 
 you will see, right ahead, a chain of low rocks, which project to 
 the S. W. from Emery Island. Bring the point of this chain 
 to bear N. £. 1 N., when it will appear on with the extreme point 
 of the mainland on the N. W. side near the head of the bay. 
 Steer in upon this leading mark, or bearing, until you are past 
 some rocks which lie 600 fathoms from the east side of the 
 ^.udubon Islets. These rocks are dry at low water, and can always 
 be seen. You must leave these rocks on your larboard or N. W. 
 aide, and, having passed them, haul to the northward a little, so 
 as to leave the Emery Rocks, which are quite bold, on your S. E. 
 or starboard side. Their outer point bears N. N. E. i E. 3 miles 
 from Outer Islet, and when up to them you will see the bay 
 open before you, and clear of danger. The bottom, outside, is 
 either of rocks or sand, with a depth of from 12 to 30 fathoms ; 
 but as soon as you arrive within the points of the mainland, 
 just within Emery Island, you will find mud bottom, with a 
 depth of from 10 lo 20 fathoms. The further in, the better the 
 ground, and the less the swell with S. W. winds, which are the 
 only winds that send any swell into the bay. i-.- ' « 
 
 If you wish to run into Tertiary Shell Bay there is nothing in 
 your way excepting a small rock above water, a quarter of a mile 
 within the entrance, which you must leave on your starboard hand; 
 and which, like the shores on either side, is quite bold. This bay 
 is not more than 120 fathoms wide, half a mile from the entrance, 
 but it becomes wider within, with from 5 to 11 fathoms wat'. rover 
 mud bottom, and is there perfectly land locked. 
 
 In running in for the Basin keep the N. W. side of the 
 bay on board, leaving the entrance of Tertiary Shell Bay, and a 
 point of low rocks to the northward of it, which are nearly joined 
 to the shore, to the eastward, until you approach within half a 
 mile of the island in the head of the bay. Yon must then steer 
 over to the eastward, towards that island, to avoid a shoal of boul- 
 der stones which extends nearly 200 fathoms off the west side of 
 the bay. The channel between this shual and the island is only 
 100 fathoms wide, but deep enough for the largest ships. Give 
 
 Tertiary Shell 
 linn. 
 
 The Raun iff 
 Cuacoacho, 
 
LAKE ISLAND TO NATASHQUAN. 
 
 143 
 
 •e-yard of 
 
 w to leave 
 ibout 300 
 lese rocks, 
 project to 
 this chain 
 reme point 
 f the bay. 
 1 are past 
 ide of the 
 can always 
 lorN.W. 
 a little, so 
 your S. E. 
 E. 3 miles 
 ;e the bay 
 outside, is 
 ) fathoms ; 
 : mainland, 
 im, with a 
 ; better the 
 lich are the 
 
 nothing in 
 T of a mile 
 loard hand; 
 This bay 
 le entrance, 
 8 wat'.r over 
 
 side of the 
 Bay, end a 
 early joined 
 ithin half a 
 It then steer 
 loal of bonl- 
 west side of 
 land is only 
 liips. Give 
 
 the island a berth of 50 fathoms, leaving it tc the eastward or on 
 the starboard hand, and as you pass through you will deepen your 
 water from 9 to 19 fathoms, the latter depth being just within- the 
 island. As soon as you are past the inner end of the island haul 
 to the N, W., into the mouth of a small bay ; and you will soon 
 shoal your water to 8 fathoms, muddy bottom, where you must 
 anchor, and you will be perfectly sheltered from every wind. The 
 basin becomes quite shoal immediately above this anchorage, 
 where there is another island lying in the entrance of Coacoacho 
 River. 
 
 On the east side of the entrance of the river there is a house 
 at which two men, who are engaged in the ftir trade and salmon 
 fishery, generally reside. This small river flows through a wide 
 and shallow channel full of boulders ; its shores are wooded with 
 spruce trees, and water may be obtained near the trading post. 
 
 In running for Coacoacho Bay from the westward, you may 
 either pass between the S. W. and South Breakers, by bringing the 
 inner or N. £. end of Wolf Island to bear east, and steering for 
 it ; or by bringing Outer Island to bear nothing to the southward 
 of east, and running towards it, until you are within less than a 
 mile, when you may haul in for the Emery Rocks, as before 
 directed. 
 
 There is very little stream of tide in Coacoacho Bay, but a 
 weak and irregular stream of flood and ebb sets through between 
 the islands. 
 
 62. The coast, for the first 4 leagues westward of Coacoacho, 
 is formed of innumerable islets and rocks to Olomanosheebo, or 
 Point River, which is called also by the Canadians, "La Ro- 
 maine." This is a considerable river, falling 20 feet over granite 
 into the head of a bay 4 miles deep, but so shoal that boats can 
 scarcely enter it at low water. There is a trading post of the 
 Hudson Bay Company on the east side near the falls, neither of 
 which can be seen from the sea, being hidden by the islands ; but 
 the place may be known by the low sandy clifls, thickly wooded 
 with spruce trees, on either side of the entrance of the bay. 
 
 Treble Islet, and the Loon Rocks, lie to the westward, the 
 latter at the distance of 6 miles from the alwve bay. The Loon 
 Rocks, which can always be seen, are distant 3 miles from the 
 nearest point of the mainland, and arc the uutcrniost danger off 
 this part of the cntist. 
 
 Coacoacho 
 River. 
 
 Ifooit and 
 Water. 
 
 South and 
 S. W. 
 Brtakeri. 
 
 Tides. 
 
 Olomano- 
 sheebo River, 
 
 Treble IiM. 
 Loon Rocks, 
 
II 
 
 :■) 
 
 
 K^'3' 
 
 ^i 
 
 
 tl 
 
 
 K ■,> 
 
 
 ^«|' 
 
 
 m 
 
 
 ri' 
 
 
 H- 
 
 
 .«■- ' 
 
 
 c 
 
 jB " '' 
 
 M 
 
 
 !».; 
 
 
 ■f' 
 
 «i; 
 
 R; 
 
 M:' 
 
 !.'l' 
 
 **'^ 
 
 
 
 i^ 
 
 W] 
 
 
 Kite 
 
 
 c 
 
 144 
 
 Waih-she- 
 noottti Half, 
 
 Cloudberry 
 I'oinl. 
 
 Aftifrjiinrro 
 Rivei: 
 
 Cur/em Point. 
 
 Krgiifhka 
 lt,„j. 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. :, 
 
 Wash-shecootai (which means Cloudberry) Bay lies 10 miles 
 to the westward of Olomanosheebo, is 2^ miles wide, and has off 
 its entrance several small rocky ledges that make it very difficult of 
 entrance. Cloudberry Point is the west point of this bay, and is 
 formed by the mainland. The east point of the bay is formed by 
 small rocks and islets. At the distance of 3 miles within Cloud- 
 berry Point this bay contracts to a very narrow inlet, having several 
 rocks and islets in it, and from 4 to 2^ fathoms water over muddy 
 bottom, for the first 4 miles up ; after which it becomes shallow 
 for 4 miles further, to the falls of a considerable river, where there 
 is a trading post and salmon fishery of the Hudson Bay Company. 
 
 This inlet is completely open to winds from the southward and 
 westward, and affords scarcely any shelter for the first 5 miles 
 within Cloudberry Point. Vessels of considerable burthen might 
 find shelter in it in time of need, but it is too intricate a place fur 
 the general purposes of navigation, or for any written directions 
 to be of avail. Coasting schooners, which know where to look for 
 all the ledges, enter it by keeping a person at the mast-head, 
 or in the rigging. 
 
 MusQUARRO River, where there is a Hudson Bay Company 
 trading and fishing post, is 4^ miles westward of Cloudberry 
 Point, and is situated 3 miles within the west point of a bay, full 
 of small islets and rocks. 
 
 This river becomes rapid a short distance within the entrance ; 
 6 feet can be carried in at low water, but it is a very intricate and 
 dangerous place ; useless excepting to boats, or very small 
 schooners. It will be known by the houses which are on the 
 east side of the entrance, and also by a remarkable red and pre- 
 cipitous ridge of granite, about 200 feet high, and about 2 miles 
 to the westward of the river. 
 
 Curlew Point, at half a mile oft' which there are several low 
 bare rocks, and ledges which always show, is 45 miles to the west- 
 ward of Musquarro, and it is the east point of Kegashka Bay. 
 
 63. Kegasuka Bay, situated between Curlew and Kegashka 
 Point, is 3 miles wide, and IJ^ miles deep. In the western half 
 of this bay there are several small islets, too wide apart to afford 
 much shelter from the sea. It is only in the N. W. corner of the 
 buy, within Kegashka Point, that u vessel can be secure fronj 
 soutlicrly winds ; there is room there for several snuiU schouuers, 
 ))\it for only one vessel of the size of a sloop of war, and she must 
 
 ;c 
 
 ••k 
 
LAKE ISLAND TO NATASHQUAN. 
 
 145 
 
 10 miles 
 I has uir 
 fficult of 
 I, and is 
 rmed by 
 1 Cloud- 
 g several 
 ir muddy 
 I shallow 
 lere there 
 Jompany. 
 ward and 
 ; 5 miles 
 len might 
 , place for 
 directions 
 look for 
 nast-head, 
 
 Company 
 ;loudbcrry 
 a bay, full 
 
 entrance ; 
 ricate and 
 ery small 
 ire on the 
 and pic- 
 lut 2 miles 
 
 evcral low 
 o the west- 
 ifi Bay. 
 
 Kcgashka 
 estorn hiilf 
 rt to afford 
 irncr of the 
 ecure from 
 
 schoonerB, 
 d she nmsl 
 
 he moored with an open hawse to the eastward, with a third Ker/nxhha Haif. 
 
 anchor on-shore to the S. \V., so as to be able to haul in close 
 
 under the point when it blows hard from the southward. The 
 
 depth of water within the islets is from 4 to 6 fathoms over fine ..." 
 
 sandy bottom. 
 
 Altogether, I consider this as a wild place, although small ves- 
 sels may con*Tive ^" "lelter themselves there sufficiently to run 
 but little rie ••iriU|, summer months. 
 
 Wood and water may be obtained without difficulty in the Wood and HU- 
 western part of the bay. ''^' 
 
 Kegashka Point is formed by an island, separated from a KegashknPoinU 
 rocky peninsula by a very narrow channel, dry at low water ; 
 and the peninsula is united to the mainland by a narrow sandy 
 isthmus covered with grass. Both the island and peninsula arc 
 distinguished by being partly covered with spruce trees. There 
 are also a few spruce trees on an islet, three-quarters of a mile to 
 the westward of the point, and as no other islands on this part of 
 the coast are wooded, the bay may be recognized by that circum- 
 stance. There is a fine sandy beach, and low sandy cliffs in the 
 N. W. corner of the bay: and there are also similar cliffs for 
 about a mile to the westward of the isthmus above mentioned. 
 This sandy tract is densely wooded with dwarf spruce, another 
 circumstance which serves to distinguish this bay, and is the 
 origin of its name, which signifies impenetrable' woods. On a 
 near approach the place will also be known by Green Island, which 
 is of low granite covered with grass, and is the outermost and 
 largest islet sheltering the bay : being about 300 fathoms in 
 diameter, and situated three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of 
 Kegashka Point. There are several small islets and rocks within, 
 end also to the eastward of Green Island, and one small and low 
 black islet between it and the inner part of Kegashka Point. 
 
 The safest channel into Kegashka bay is between this lust nti>i enimnce 
 named islet, and Kegashka Point, 170 fiithnms wide, and 8 iiauf*" " 
 fathoms deep. The other channels have dangers in them, but 
 this is quite clear, and the only direction necessary when coming 
 from the westward is to give the south extremity of Kegashkrt 
 Point a berth of a quarter of a mile, or to go no nearer than 
 8 fathoms : then run along the cast side of the point, which 
 is quite bold, leaving all the islets on your starboard hiind. A 
 distance of thrcc-tiuarters of a mile on a N. E. AN. couisc will 
 
146 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Kegathka Bay. 
 
 n 
 
 4 
 "I 
 
 
 
 
 1;* 
 
 5 
 
 
 i:l»i'Jt 
 
 Approach from 
 the eautward. 
 
 Kfgaahia Ri' 
 ver. 
 
 Shoal lo the 
 Ea»tward of 
 Nalaahquan 
 Point, 
 
 anil Cod 
 Hank off the 
 Point. 
 
 Munt Joti, 
 
 bring you to the narrow channel before mentioned, between the 
 westermost islet and the inner end of Kegashka Point. Haul 
 round the latter to the north-westward at the distance of half a 
 cable, and when within it, not more than the same distance, let go - 
 your anchor in 5 fathoms, and secure your vessel by mooring, as 
 has been before mentioned. 
 
 When approaching Kegashka from the eastward, give the low 
 and small islets oflF Curlew Point a berth of half a mile, to avoid 
 the ledges off them, which dry at low water : then steer N. W. 
 ^ N., or so as to pass outside of Green Island, going no nearer 
 than 100 fathoms. Continue on that course till the inner or 
 N. E. extremity of Kegashka Point bears north, which will be a 
 distance of rather more than 3 J miles from the ledges off Curlew 
 Point; then haul in, and pass between the point and the 
 westermost islet, as before directed, giving the south side of that 
 islet « Vieith of at least a cable's length. 
 
 Kegashka Bay has this advantage, that there are no ledges, or 
 other dangers aff its entrance : so that a vessel is no sooner out- 
 side of Kegashka Point than she has a clear sea before her. .;,.-.,v: 
 
 Kegashka River has falls 40 feet high, and a fishing station 
 of the Hudson Bay Company a mile within its entrance ; neither 
 the falls nor the house can be seen from the sea. This river, 
 affording shelter only for boats, is 3 miles to the west'vard of the 
 bay of the same name. '^ 
 
 At the distance of 2i miles further westward fine sandy 
 beaches, in front of sandy cliffs, 10 or 80 feet high, and a country 
 thickly wooded with spruce trees, commence and continue to Na- 
 tashquan Point, a distance of 13^ miles. 
 
 Three miles westward from the east end of the sandy beach, 
 and 1^ mileu off shore at Long River, (a small stream,) there is 
 a shoal which has not been examined, but on which breakers have 
 been observed. Go no nearer to the shore than 17 fathoms, and 
 you will avoid it. 
 
 One and a half miles to the S. W., from the S. W. extremity of 
 Natashquan Point, lies a small Cod Bank, with little more than 
 4 fathoms at low water, over gravel bottom. i .d >^ 
 
 Mont Jom, mentioned in all former remark books, has no 
 existence, nt least there is no mountain, nor even anything that 
 deserves the name of a hill ; but near the termination of the 
 sandy cliffs, which cud at the S. W. extremity of Natashquan 
 
 the 
 
NATASHQUAN. 
 
 JUh 
 
 147 
 
 len the 
 Haul 
 half a 
 ;, let go- 
 ring, as 
 
 the low 
 to avoid 
 rN.W. 
 nearer 
 nner or 
 (vill be a 
 • Curlew 
 and the 
 > of that 
 
 edges, or 
 oner out- , 
 ler. «r.„s 
 tg station 
 ; neither 
 his river, 
 ird of the 
 
 le sandy 
 a country 
 ue to Na- 
 
 dy beach, 
 ,) there is 
 kers have 
 loms, and 
 
 tremity of 
 more than 
 
 :8, has no 
 ^thing that 
 ion of the 
 Utaahquau 
 
 Point, the sandy ridge with spruce trees rises into a slight * • . (v-,..,t,' a 
 mound, a very little higher than the rest of the country. This is 
 Mont Joli ; but so little remarkable in its appearance that we 
 should not have noticed it, had it not been fc :ts name. .•'i'f-J 
 
 Parallel to the coast from Musquarro to Natashquan, and at Cod Banh. 
 distances varying from 6 to 11 miles, there are banks of saud, 
 gravel, and broken shells, on which the depth of water is various, \ "^"\ ' 
 
 between 24 and 40 fathoms. There is more than 50 fathoms of 
 water in some parts, between these banks and the shore. Codfish 
 are often caught in abundance upon these banks, principally by 
 American schooners. 
 
 The remarkable sandy promontory of Natashquan Point is NaimUquan 
 the most southern point on the north coast of the Gulf, to the " ' 
 eastward of the Seven Islands, and seems naturally to separate 
 the eastern division of the coast, which has been the subject of 
 the preceding articles of this Chapter, from that further to the 
 westward. As a concluding remark to the above account of the 
 eastern division, it may be said that though there are few coasts 
 more dangerous either to a vessel unacquainted with its nature, or 
 unaware of its proximity in a dark night, or thick fog ; yet witli 
 the assistance of the chart, due caution, and a constant use of the 
 deep sea-lead, it may be approached with safety ; und that a vessel 
 may even stand close in to the outer rocks and breakers on a 
 clear sunny day, provided there be a trusty person aloft to look 
 out for shallow water, for the bottom can be seen in 4 or 5 
 fathoms of water. 
 
 64> From the south extremity of Natashquan Point, the east Coast from Na- 
 point of Anticosti bears S. J^ E. true, 57 miles : so that the next 'i^*/'',"," '" '*' 
 division of the coast, which shall now be described, may be 
 considered as forming part of the north shore of the channel to 
 the northward of Anticosti. From the south extremity of Natash- 
 quan Point to Collins Shoal, the outer danger off St. Genevieve 
 Island, the course is N. 84° J W. true, or N. W. by W. magnetic, 
 52 miles. The coast included in this distance is low near the 
 sea, rising a short distance back into mounds and ridge^, but no- 
 where exceeding 400 feet in height. It is composed of primary 
 rocks, with the exception of a sandy tract at the Agwanus and 
 Nabesippi Rivers. The sandy tracts arc always thickly wooded 
 with spruce trees, and the country generally is here less bare 
 than it is further to the eastward. 
 

 148 
 
 V-?. Ml 
 
 I'm*- 
 
 m 
 
 
 3 
 
 Current. 
 
 Tides. 
 
 NalaihquaH 
 Hirer, 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 The coast is broken into numerous coves and small bays, 
 affording shelter everywhere to boats, and occasionally to very 
 small schooners. The small and bare islets and rocks are innu- 
 merable along it, but nowhere extend further out from the points, 
 of the mainland than 2 miles. . .- 7, »>...:. 
 
 When there is a heavy sea ruiming, all these dangers show, or 
 they can be seen from the mast-head in clear weather : but under 
 other circumstances, 20 fathoms is as near to them as a vessel 
 ought to approach, that depth being in many places not more 
 than a mile from the outer ledges. 
 
 The banks of sand, gravel, and broken shells, which extend 
 off this coast for many miles, and the deep water channel between 
 them and Anticosti, have been already mentioned in art. 22, and 
 the soundings upon them are too irregular to admit of any other 
 than the general description there given of them. I must therefore 
 refer to the charts, in which the various depths and nature of the 
 Iwttom are given in such a way as cannot fail to be of great as- 
 sistance to vessels navigating this channel. 
 
 The current down along the coast in westerly winds has also 
 been mentioned in articles 17 and 22; its rate seldom exceeds 
 half a knot, and is usually much less, so that a vessel can always 
 make way to windward in moderate weather. 
 
 In shore there are weak tidal streams too irregular to be de- 
 pended upon. It is however important to remark, that the flood 
 draws strongly into Natashquan River, and the bay at Little Na- 
 tashquan ; while the ebb sets strongly off Natashquan Point to 
 the S. E., and causes a very heavy sea upon the banks off it, in 
 southerly winds. 
 
 On approaching St. Genevieve, a strong in-draught of the flood 
 towards the channel, between that island a. d the main, will be 
 experienced ; and the ebb will be found setting strongly out in 
 the contrary direction : that is, to the S. E. The rate of these 
 streams seldom exceeds a mile per hour. 
 
 65 Natashquan River (the name signifying " where the 
 seals land") tutcrs the sea on the west side of the point of the 
 same name, and 3 miles nortli-westward from its south extremity. 
 The mouth of the river, between low sandy points, is fully a mile 
 wide, but nearly the whole of tliis space is occupied by a low 
 smidy island, having narrow channels on either side of it. The 
 northern channel is nearly dry al times, but the southern one has 
 
 tl 
 
 re 
 t 
 
 tl 
 
*-^ NATASHQUAN. '' 
 
 149 
 
 lU bays, 
 
 to very 
 
 ire innit- 
 
 [le points. 
 
 1 show, or 
 )ut under 
 i a vessel 
 not more 
 
 ch extend 
 j1 between 
 t. 22. and 
 ' any otber 
 t therefore 
 ture of the 
 ~ great as- 
 
 ds has also 
 )m exceeds 
 can always 
 
 to be de- 
 it the Hood 
 
 Little Na- 
 in Point to 
 a off it, in 
 
 of the flood 
 lain, will be 
 ongly out in 
 ate of these 
 
 " where the 
 point of the 
 th extremity, 
 fully a mile 
 lied by a low 
 ; of it. The 
 Lhcrn one iias 
 
 a depth of G feet at low water, and from 9 to 1 1 feet at high water, 
 according to neap and spring tides. There is the same depth 
 within, and small schooners may lie alongside the steep sandy 
 bank, where the houses of the Hudson Bay Company's trading 
 and fishing post stand, on the south side of the river, half a mile 
 within the entrance. The bar of sand, on which there is usually 
 a heavy surf, extends out three-quarters of a mile, and is exceed- 
 ingly steep to sea-ward, where 20 fathoms will be found within 
 a quarter of a mile. Codfish are taken in great numbers off^ this 
 bar in the month of June, and the river abounds with salmon. 
 Above the trading post the river is full of sand-banks, dry at low 
 water, and only navigable for boats for a few miles to the first 
 rapids ; above which it is said to be lost in a great morass, aboui 
 12 miles inland from the entrance. It discharges a great quantity 
 of water in the spring of the year. The sandy beach continues Liiife Saimh- 
 for 31 miles to the N. N. E. of the entrance, terminating at the '""" *''""'"'• 
 mouth of a small stream, called the Little ^atashquan, which 
 admits boats only at high water, and which is close to the east- 
 ward of the harbour of the same name. 
 
 ■ Little Natashquan Harbour, formed by a number of islets tiitle Natash- 
 and rocks, is only fit for vessels not exceeding 100 tons, although ''""" '^'"■*"'"'' 
 it has water enough for a sloop of war. The entrances, of which 
 there are two, formed by a reef of rocks in the centre, are not 
 more than 90 fathoms wide, between reefs, the extent of which 
 under water cannot be seen, because the water is discoloured by 
 the dark streams of the neighbouring rivers. 
 
 The depth that can be carried in at low water by the west 
 channel is 3 fathoms, and 5 fathoms by that which is between the 
 central reef and the islets on the east side. The space within the 
 reefs in which vessels can ride in from 3 to 5 fathoms, over sand 
 and mud bottom, is only 250 fathoms in diameter. This anchor- 
 age is defended by the main and islets from all winds excepting 
 the S. W., in which direction there are reefs of rocks, some parts 
 of which are always above water. In a strong S. \\\ wind, some 
 sea comes over these reefs at high water, but never enough to en- 
 danger a vessel during the summer months. There are several 
 rocky patches, with from 2^ to 3 fathoms off the hiirl)our's mouth; 
 these, with the want of space to work in, and the difTiculty of 
 getting out with the prevailing southerly winds of sunnuir, vender 
 this place of little use for the general purposes of uiivigation, but. 
 
150 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 kU i, 
 
 Natathquan 
 
 Harbour. 
 
 it is a valuable harbour for the fishermen, whose schooners, of 
 frum 30 to 100 tons, are well suited to the size and nature of the 
 place, which is contiguous to excellent fishing ground, and affords 
 every facility for drying fish. The entrance of this harbour- 
 bears N. by £. 4 miles, from the southern entrance of Natash- 
 quan River, and a vessel, being ofiF the bar of that river in 20 
 fathoms, should steer N. E. by N., nearly parallel to the sandy 
 beach. When she has run rather more than 3 miles, and has 
 decreased her depth of water to 12 fathoms, she will be about half 
 a mile from, and will see the islets and rocks, which, commencing 
 at the termination of the sandy beach, lie off the entrance of Little 
 Natashquan Stream, and form the east side of the entrance to the 
 harbour. The westermost of these islets is much larger than 
 those whic];i lie further to the S. E., between it and the termina- 
 tion of the sandy beach, firing the west point of that island to 
 bear N.E. by N. in 12 fathoms of water, and the southermost 
 of the rocks at the termination of the sandy beach will bear 
 E. J N. From this position, by ascending the rigging for the pur- 
 pose, you will be able to make out the reef on the west side of the 
 harbour, which extends rather more than half a mile, S. W. by S. 
 from a rather high and round-backed islet of grey granite, with a 
 wooden cross upon it. This islet will bear N. by E. J E. from 
 the position above indicated, and the central reef, some part of 
 which is always above water, will be seen between it and the 
 islets and the point of the main, which, together, form the east 
 side of the harbour. Steer N. by E. J E. for the islet with the 
 cross on it, until abreast of the outer part of the reef to the 
 westward, which will be distant a long cable's length, and you 
 will be in about 7 fathoms water. Change your course now suf- 
 ficiently to the eastward, to pass on that side of the central reef 
 which you may prefer, giving its rocks above water a berth of not 
 less than 60 fathoms, if you take the west channel. The central 
 1 ccf is quite bold to the southward, and also on its east side, so 
 that you may approach it within 20 fathoms when entering by 
 the east channel ; biit you must remember in hauling round its 
 north and N. E. ends that it extends "JO fathoms under water 
 from the rocks, which always show towards the centre of the 
 liarbour. The best berth to anchor in is in 4 fathonis, sand and 
 mud bottom, with the rocks above water of the central reef, bear- 
 ing S. S. W. h W., distant 180 fathoms : then the cross will bear 
 
NATASHQUAN TO THE MINGANS. 
 
 151 
 
 N. W. by W. i^ W., and the vessel will be nearly in the centre of , , , „ , 
 the harbour. 
 
 Washtawooka (Crooked) Bay, 5 miles north-westward of wiuhiawooka 
 Little Natashquan, is full of small islets, rocks, and ledges, afford- ^^' 
 ing shelter to shallops and boats. It is an intricate and dangerous 
 place, and may be known by Shag Islet, a large black rock 
 lying off it, and further out than the rest, being 1 J miles S. S. E. 
 from the projecting point of the main. 
 
 Agwanos River, 10 miles north-westward of Little Natash- Agwrnus River, 
 quan, is a large stream, having rapids and falls 1^ miles from the 
 entrance, which is narrow, and 6 feet deep at low water. There 
 is no bar, but many small rocks, both above and under water, li ; 
 off its mouth to the distance of 1^ miles, and render the approach 
 extremely dangerous. The east point of entrance j«s of rock, the 
 other of sand, and there is a small islet, three-quarters of a mile 
 from the river's mouth. From 9 to 12 feet can be carried up to am' Tain. 
 this islet, above which the river expands into a basin, half a mile 
 wide, and 5 fathoms deep, close up to the foot of the i ipi;;.*. 
 There is sandy beach for li miles to the eastward of this river, 
 and also westward of it to Nabesippi. 
 
 Nabesippi (Man's) River, 3 miles north-westward from the Nabesippi Ri- 
 Agwanus, enters the sea at the extremity of a sandy point, 174 * ' 
 miles N. W. ^ N. from the entrance of Natashquan River. The 
 Nabesippi is a much smaller river than the Agwanus, and will 
 only admit boats in fine weather. On the west bank, a short 
 distance within the entrance, stands a house and store, being a 
 trading post of the Hudson Bay Company, which can be readily 
 seen from the sea. 
 
 Pashasheeboo, Mushkoniatawee, and W<< '."tnagunashka, are Pa«A<uA«e£oo 
 small bays, full of small islets and rocks, wa, u render their en- ''^' 
 trances so difficult and dangerous, that no directions would be of 
 the least avail. They are occasionally, but not often, .entered by 
 small coasting schooners intimately ncquainted with the coast, 
 and none but those who know every rock and ledge could either 
 distinguish them, or take a vessel in. The first named is open to Muahkoniata- 
 the S. E. ; the second, less intricate than the other two, is 200 ""** ''^' 
 fathoms wide, and 5 fathoms deep in the entrance, with an equal 
 depth within. It is open to the southerly winds, but is neverthe- 
 less tolerably secure for small craft, which may lie close to the 
 rocks. The third is Ij miles wide, with a chain of rocks above a,hka Bay. 
 
U2 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 J' 
 
 ll'atcheeslwu 
 UM. 
 
 Saddle llill. 
 
 Quelachiiu-Mn 
 n 
 
 and iiuclcr water across its mouth, not large enough, or dose 
 enough to afford much shelter, yet too close and too numerous for 
 a vessel to find her way through without great difficulty and 
 danger. I'hree fathoms can he carried in, and there are 4 and 5 
 within. 
 
 Watcheeshoo, 18 miles N.W. byW. from Nnbcsippi, and 
 14 miles E. S. E. from St. Genevieve Island, is a hill of granite 
 127 feet high, and bare of treea. It is a peninsula, but appears 
 like an islet, higher than the rest, when seen in a vessel from a dis- 
 tance. There is a fishing post of the Hudson Bay Company in a 
 cove among the rocks, to the westward of it. Watcheeshoo and 
 the Saddle Hill, which is 374 feet high above the sea, arc very 
 remarkable, and serve to point out to a vessel her position off the 
 coast. The latter is situated 6 miles inland from the foi mcr, in a 
 north direction. 
 
 Quetachoo-Manicouagon, and Pcashtebai, arc two contiguous 
 bays, 4 miles north-westward of Watcheeshoo. The first is the 
 most to the eastward, 2^ miles wide, and from 3 to 14 fathoms 
 deep, l)ut so full of rocks and ledges as to be useless, excepting to 
 
 yv«jA/eAaiZ/n^. the smallest schooners. It is open to the westward. The other 
 is a much smaller bay, capable of affording shelter only to boats, 
 and open to the southward. 
 
 AppeeleiatDiiij. Appeeletat is a bay full of rocks, of no use to vessels, because 
 of the ledges underwater off its entrance, and also within. Four 
 fathoms can be carried into this bay, ivhicli is not used even by 
 small craft, because there is an excellent luirl)our within St. (lene- 
 vieve Island, the S. E. point of which is distant only 3 miles from 
 it in a S. W. by W. direction. 
 
 Tlic whole of the dungerous coast which has passed in review in 
 the foregoing articles of this chapter was siirveyed for tin- first 
 time by us, during parts of tiie years 1832 and 1833. Previous 
 to that time there were no charts of it that desirved the niiiue ; 
 the principal points were not laid down within 10 miles of tlieir 
 true position, even in latitude; nod the names of the various bays 
 nud rivers were for \\\v most part unknown. 
 
 THE MING;\N IS!-ANI)S. 
 
 Moiqnnhlimdt. ^'''' '^'"' ^''"K"" Inlands are of limestone, conlaiiiing ainino- 
 fVww/n/K. uilesjortliiicerutilcH, and other organic reuuiin;-, <in\ ol wliiili arc 
 
THE MINGAN ISLANDS. 
 
 153 
 
 similar to those of Anticosti. This limestone dips slightly to the 
 southward, so that the islands are bold, and frequently cliffy, on 
 their north, east, and west sides, whilst they are low and shelving 
 towards the south, in which direction the reefs of flat limestone 
 and other dangers exist. 
 
 Ancient beaches, formed of water-worn pebbles of limestone, and 
 flower-pot rocks, precisely similar to those which are forming 
 at present out of cliffs that are washed by the waves, arc met with 
 in most of the islands, far above the reach of the highest tides. 
 
 The [general character of these islands is low, they are estimated 
 nowhere to attain an elevation exceeding 300 feet above the sea, 
 and are in general much lower. They possess very little soil, but 
 nevertheless are thickly wooded with spruce, birch, and poplar, 
 on the side towards the mainland ; though towards the sea, barren 
 tracts often occur, composed either of bare limestone, or of banks 
 and ridges of limestone gravel. 
 
 Supplies of wood and water can readily be obtained from the 
 principal islands ; wild berries arc abundant in their season, and 
 so arc different kinds of wild fowl. Quadrupeds are scarce, but 
 there are plenty of seals up(m the limestone reefs, and a fe \ cod- 
 fish off the coast. 
 
 Tlie coast of the mainland, from St. John River to Mingan, is 
 of sand and clay, low and thickly wooded, and witli a fine sandy 
 lu-ach. Further eastward the siiore is souictinus of granite, and 
 at others of limestone, the latter rock lying immediately over the 
 fornier. 
 
 Mount St. John, 1416 feet high, and described in the last 
 Chapter, is the highest point of the nmiuland in this neighbourhood. 
 There arc other hills, estimated at 1000 feet above the sea, about 
 leagues further eastward, but (i or 7 miles back from the sea, 
 and nearly opposite (Quarry Island. With these exceptions, the 
 main is low, and it is particularly so opposite the Eastern Islands, 
 where the hills are fur back in the country. 
 
 The tides arc not strong among these islands, never exceeding 
 a knot, excejtting in very narrow chainicls. They are often rendered 
 irreg\ilur by the winds, but in i'nw settled weather there is a coii- 
 stuiil ulterinUion of tlu; streams oi Hood and ebb belvvecii the 
 islands and the main, and also within the distance of '2 or 3 miles 
 from the outer, or southern shorts of the islands. 
 
 For want of good charts of these islands, they have not been 
 
 Mingauh/ands. 
 
 Heiyht. 
 
 Trees. 
 
 Wood and IVa- 
 ter. 
 
 Stall and Cnit. 
 
 MuiiHt Si. John 
 I'll the main- 
 land. 
 
 Title», 
 
 'llttit nliiHih 
 ml iluHi/rrimt, 
 
m 
 
 154 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Number of 
 these iatimdn. 
 
 MmgaHliland*. much frequented by other than email coasting or fishing vessels, 
 and the dangers of the navigation among them has been much 
 exaggerated. With the exception of the rocks off St. Gienevieve 
 and Hunting Islands, which are very dangerous, and a shoal 
 to the westward of Clear Water Point, there are no detached 
 shoals outside the line joining the outer points of the islands, nor 
 do the reefs of flat limestone extend further out from the high 
 vater than three-quarters of a mile in any part. The principal 
 channels between the islands, and between them and the main, 
 may be easily navigated with the assistance of our charts, and 
 there arc several excellent harbours capable of admitting the 
 largest vessels. 
 
 There are 29 of these islands, in none of which are there any 
 inhabitants ; some of them are very small, and the largest does not 
 exceed 11 or 12 miles in circumference. They are arranged parallel 
 to the coast, and extend along it 45 miles from St. Genevieve Island, 
 at the eastern end to the Perroquets at the western end of the chain. 
 
 Clear Water Point, which is 14 miles to the westward of St. 
 Genevieve, projects out so as to interruirt the continuation of the 
 chain of islands, and thus separates them into two divisions, the 
 castcrmost of which has been called the Esquimaux Islands, a 
 name which should be confined to the island properly so called 
 in the western division. I shall consider them all as the Miugan 
 Islands, and treat first of the eastern division. 
 
 61. St. Genevieve, the castcrmost of the Mingan Islands, 
 is about 5 miles in circumference. Its N. E. point is a bluH' 
 hcailland, being tae termination in that direction of the highest ])art 
 of the island, which is about 200 feet alxjvc the sea, and slopes 
 irregularly down to the southward. 
 
 Mount St. Gknkvievk is an isolated table hill on the main- 
 land, of limestone, 332 feet above the sea at liii^h water, resting 
 on the granite alnnit a mile inliuul, and beoring N. h E. rather 
 more than 2 miles from the N. E. point of the island of St. Gene- 
 vieve. This mountain, and the high N. E. point of the island, 
 distinctly point out to a vessel at sea, the position of the channel 
 between the island and the main. 
 
 Tiierc arc two patches of rock which render it ncccBsary to ap- 
 proach the island of St. Genevieve with caution, viz., the Saints, 
 and the Uowen Hocks. 
 lite SatHin, 'i'uK Sainth are two low and bare rockN, lying rather more than 
 
 St. Genevieve 
 hland. 
 
 Atiiunl Si. Ge- 
 nevieve, 
 
 Dnnijfm off St 
 tirnrvifve /«- 
 
THE MINGAN ISLANDS. 
 
 155 
 
 N. fV. Bou-en 
 Rock. 
 
 i S. E. Rowen 
 Rock, 
 
 Irregular 
 Suundingt. 
 
 half a mile to the south of St. Genevieve. There is a channel of 5 
 fathoms deep, but witli foul ground, between them and the island ; 
 and reefs under water extend from each of them fully 300 fathoms 
 to the south, S. E., and S. W. 
 
 The N.W. Bowen Rock, with 3 feet least water, lies H 
 mile E. S. E. ^ E. from the eastern Saint, and with the south 
 side of the latter on with the centre of the western Saint. 
 
 The S. E. Bowen Rock, with 6 feet least water, lies two-thirds 
 of a mile S. E. i S. from the north-west Bowen Rock, and S.E. by 
 E. \ E., 1| miles, from the easten. Saint, which is nist open to the 
 northward of the western Saint. These very dangerous rocks lie 
 nearly in a line from the S. E. point of St. Gencvice, at the dis- 
 tance of H and 2 miles respectively. There is very deep water 
 between and close to them, and also for rather more than a mile 
 to the southward of them and the Saints. The soundings are here 
 extremely irregular, varying from 4 and 6 fathoms rock, to 43 
 fathoms sand, sometimes in a single cast of the lead. The whole 
 of this dangerous part should be avoided by vessels. 
 
 HuNT/NG Island, the next westward of St. Genevieve, is low, Huniing hiand. 
 tliickly wooded, broken into many coves, fringed with small islets 
 and rocks on all sides, excepting towards the mainland, and is 
 about 1 1 miles in circumference. Its longest diameter is parallel 
 to the coast, and about 4 miles. Off its S. W. point, and extend- DangtrioffU. 
 ing to the distance of H miles, lie Wood and Gun Islands, leaving 
 no paesnge between, und having reefs running out from them 300 
 fathoms to the southward. They are both low, and the latter is 
 bare of trees, but covered with grass and peat, in which innume- 
 rable putiins l)urrow and rear their young. 
 
 Thk Garhk Rock, always above water, lies rather more than a GnnU Rovk. 
 mile oiF to the southward, from near the centre of Hunting Island ; 
 it would l)c highly iuiprudent for any ship to attempt a passage 
 lietwcen it and the iMliind, ns there are many ledges scattered 
 along the southern side of the island, and the Garde is itself the 
 termination of a long ridge of sunken rocks. The south-eastern 
 end of the island is likewise Iwaet with several reefs, some of 
 which extend three-cpmrters of a mile to the southward. 
 
 (/Oi-i.iNs SnoAi,, a BUiall patch of rocks, with l.'i feet leant t'o//iHv .S'AohA 
 water, lies 24 miles south, from the S. E. point of Hunting Island. 
 The marks on this dungerotm shoal arc tlie ca^tt point of St. Cenc- 
 vu'vc just open to the eastward of the weiterti Saint, bearing 
 
 Wood and Otm 
 litiittdi. 
 
to 
 m 
 
 156 
 
 IrregtJar 
 Soundings. 
 
 GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 N. 38° E. nnrt the north point of Wood Island on with the 
 south side of the Garde Rock, bearing N. W. 
 
 Between Collins Shoal and the reefs off the S. E. point of 
 Hunting Island, the soundings are irregular, from 4 to 17 fathoms 
 over rocky bottom, and vessels should not pass there, as in such 
 a place it was impossible to be sure of having discovered every 
 jmint of rock which may approach a few feet nearer the surface 
 than the rest. 
 
 ST. GENEVIEVE AND BETCHEWUN HARBOURS. 
 
 S/. Genevieve 
 Harbour. 
 
 r,- 
 
 The first of these harbours is situated between the island of the 
 same name and the mainland, and the second, between Hunting 
 Island and the main. Both are excellent harbours, nut ditCcult 
 of access or egress with the assistance of a good chart, and fit for 
 the largest ships. 
 
 There are two channels leading to tliese harbours j namely, the 
 East and the Saints channels. 
 Hast Channel. To enter by the East channel with an easterly wind, observe 
 the following directions : — 
 
 Being at a distanre from St. Genevieve Island, of not less than 
 3 miles, to be sure that you are further out than Bowen Rocks, 
 bring the N. E. point of St. Genevieve in one with Indian Point, 
 (a low wooded point of the main, forming the east point of Pil- 
 lage Bay,) bearing N. 35° VV. Run in with this mark on 
 and you will leave the Bowen Rocks half a mile to the westward, 
 and will pass them in between 20 and 30 fathoms over a bottom 
 of fine sand and coral. 
 
 When the S. E. point of St. Genevieve and the west Saint 
 come in one, change your course a little to the northward, so us 
 not to go too near a flat shoal, which extends nearly .300 fathoms 
 from the cast side of St. Genevieve. 
 
 Give the N. E. point of St. Genevieve a berth of a cable's length, 
 aiul passing us close to the shingly north point of that island as 
 you please, bring up in 10 fathoms, mud bottom, half way be- 
 tween the latter and Anchor Island, which will be seen lying close 
 within the N. W. point of St. Genevieve. 
 
 If you wish to proceed to Hetehcwun Harbour ii/sleud of 
 aiu;lioiing at St. Genevieve, puss to the northward of Anchor 
 Island, which is (piite bnld on that xide, and you will »<e( the cm- 
 
 llrlvhrii'Uil 
 lliirhour. 
 
THE MINGAN ISLANDS. 
 
 157 
 
 trance of Bctchcwun (between the north point of Hunting Island St. Genevieve 
 
 and Partridge Point) bearing W. by N. Mount Partridge, on "^„yf,oursT"" 
 
 the N. E. side of the point of the same name, will be easily 
 
 recognized, being a wooded and steep-sided hill, similar to, but 
 
 much lower and smaller than Mount St. Genevieve. The north 
 
 point of Hunting Island is also a cliffy mound, with a cove on 
 
 the east side of it. It is quite bold, and you must pass close to 
 
 it, to avoid the shoal otf Partridge Point, which extends a full 
 
 quarter of a mile to the southward, and diminishes the navigable 
 
 breadth of the entrance to 350 fathoms. When in the entrance, 
 
 you will see a low islet in the centre of the harbour ; steer for it, 
 
 and anchor with it bearing W. by N., and distant one-third of a 
 
 mile. The depth of water in the harbour is from 9 to 18 fathoms 
 
 over mud bottom. 
 
 The distance across from the N. E. point of St. Genevieve to the Ledge I'oini, 
 main is about a mile, but the navigable breadth of the entrance is 
 reduced to half a mile, by the rocks and shoal-water otf Ledge 
 Point, which is composed of numerous rocks of granite close 
 together. 
 
 The shoal water extends from Ledge Point, directly across 
 Pillage Bay, to Partridge Point, and you must not approach these 
 shoals nearer than 7 fathoms. 
 
 This East channel is the best with easterly winds, and may be 
 used with moderate westerly winds during the flood tide, by 
 vessels not too large to work in such narrow channels, but they 
 must be careful in their boards to the northward, especially in that 
 t«tward8 Ledge Point. 
 
 To enter these harbours by the Saints channel observe thu Saint nChannef, 
 following directions : — 
 
 Bring tiie west points of St. Genevieve and Anchor Island in 
 one, bearing nortii, at a distance of not less than 5 miles from the 
 former, to be sure that you are outside of Collins Shoal. Run 
 in upon this leading mark, until the north sides of the two 
 Saints come in one, l)eariiig E. S. E. ij E. The cast sides of 
 Mount I'urtridge and of Iluntini!; Island (or ratlu-r of an island 
 joined to it at low water) will conic in one lU tlie same time, bear- 
 ing N. W. by N. ; steer upon this last named hading mark, (to 
 avoid a reef wiiieii extends 280 fathoms from tin- S. W. point 
 of St. Genevieve,) until the east side of Mount St. Genevieve, seen 
 over till' ^andy S. 11. point of Anchor Island, comes in one with 
 
• 
 
 Ir 'J 
 r i 
 
 ■ » 
 
 158 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 St. Oimevieve the N. W. point of St. Genevieve laland, bearing N. N. E. J E. 
 
 'aarbourt. Change your course now to north, which will take you in through 
 
 the centre of the channel between St. Genevieve and Hunting 
 
 Islands, and you may either proceed to St. Genevieve Harbour, 
 
 round Anchor Island, giving its west end a berth of two cables' 
 
 length, or to Betchewun Harbour along the N.E. side of Hunting 
 
 Island, which is quite bold. 
 
 The directions just given for the Saints channel will lead a 
 
 ship in between the dangers oflF St. Genevieve and Hunting Islands, 
 
 in not less than 20 fathoms water, and she will not have a less 
 
 depth until she is in as far a? Anchor Island. The breadth of the 
 
 channel between the shoal- water off the Saints, and the shoals off 
 
 the S. E. point of Hunting Island, is a mile. It diminishes to half 
 
 a mile between the reef off the S. W. point of St. Genevieve and 
 
 the east end of Hunting Island, which is the narrowest part of 
 
 the channel. Within this narrowest part, the ground becomes 
 
 good for anchoring, as it is everywhere between St. Genevieve and 
 
 Betchewun Harbours. Indeed so little sea comes in, that the 
 
 whole space may be considered as a harbour capable of holding a 
 
 great number of vessels of the largest class. 
 
 fVood and Hii- Wood and water may be obtained, the latter from small streams, 
 tcr 
 
 either on the main or on the islands. 
 
 There is an inner harbour at Betchewun, to the westward of the 
 low islet which has been mentioned, but from thence there is no 
 channel, excepting for boats, to pass out to the westward between 
 Hunting Island and the main. 
 
 The tides between St. Genevieve and Hunting Islands, and the 
 mainland, are much influenced by the winds; b«it their rates 
 seldom amount to a knot at any time, and are usually much less, 
 excepting through the shallow and narrow channel at the west end 
 of Betchewun Harbour, where there is at times a complete rapid. 
 Charles It/anil. 68. Charles Island, the next westward of Hunting Island, 
 is 3 miles long parallel to the coast, and I^ wide. It is about 
 200 feet high, bold, and free from shoals ; but at the distance of 
 three-quarters of a mile south from its east point there is a imtch 
 of rocky ground on which no less than 5 fathoms has been found, 
 bift which had better be avoided by large vessels. 
 
 The cast point of Charles bears N. W. by W. nearly 2i 
 miles from the west point of Gun Island. The former of these 
 points is quite bold, and so is the latter to the N. W., but to (he 
 
 Betchewun In- 
 ner Harbour. 
 
 Titles. 
 
THE MINOAN ISLANDS. 
 
 159 
 
 Ragg Rag. 
 
 Charlex Har- 
 
 • built: 
 
 S. W. it has a reef extending 200 fathoms. Between them ia the 
 
 entrance to FuiBu Bay, which is open to southerly winds. Within PiiJ^n Bug. 
 
 the east point of Charles and half way towards a shoal cove in 
 
 this island, there is good anchorage in 7 fathoms, mud bottom, at 
 
 the distance of two cables from the island ; but the S. £. winds 
 
 send in a considerable swell. In the N. E. corner of this bay is 
 
 the narrow entrance (between shoals off Ragg Point and Hunting 
 
 Island) to Ragg Bay, which has tolerable anchorage in its N. W. 
 
 part, but has very deep water on the side towards Hunting Island, 
 
 and is separated from the western part of Betchewun Harbour by 
 
 the shoal and narrow channel for boats between the island and 
 
 the main, mentioned in the last page. 
 
 Charlks Harbour, between the island and the main, though 
 very narrow, is perfectly secure, and deep enough for vessels of ' 
 any size, but its entrances are only 80 fathoms wide. Within, the 
 harbour expands to a quarter of a mile wide by three-quarters of a 
 mile in length parallel to the shore. Both entrances are 7 fathoms 
 deep, but you must pass over 4 fathoms if you enter from the 
 eastward through PufBn Bay. The depth within the harbour is 
 from 4 to 6^- fathoms, with mud bottom. 
 
 Strong winds occasionally cause the tides to run at the rate of 
 *! knots in the entrances of the harbour, but in general there is 
 only a weak stream with either tide. 
 
 To enter tliis harbour from Puffin Bay, bring the N. E. point of i 
 Charles, which ia high and cliffy, to bear N. W., then steer for ' 
 it, and give it a berth of between 100 and 180 fathoms, as you 
 haul round it to the westward into the harbour. 
 
 To enter from Trilobite Bay, give the N, W. point of Charles 
 Island a berth of between 60 and 140 fathoms, as you haul round 
 it to S. E. by E. into the harbour. All the way from the eastern 
 narrow entrance into Charles Harbour tiie.c is a broad zone of 
 shoal water, which curves round parallel to the mainland till it 
 joins Whale Island, and nearly fills up all the N. W. part of 
 Trilol)ite Bay. 
 
 WuALK Island, lying one quarter of a mile from the cast llhnle Island. 
 side of Annnniiitc Point, and with shoal water between them, 
 is distant 800 fathoms to the westward of Charles Island. 
 Both islands arc bold and clilly, and Trilobite Bay is between TrilMie Uag. 
 them with excellent anchorage, well sheltered from uU but southerly 
 
 Tides. 
 
 Eastern En- 
 trance. 
 
 Western 
 Enlrunce. 
 
(I:i 
 m 
 
 I 
 
 100 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 :,u ' 
 
 t':: 
 
 1 1' -x 
 
 H 
 •1 
 
 £'■■■ 
 
 i 
 
 ''I 
 
 iJ/ear Water 
 Puint. 
 
 Cfear Water 
 Shouts. 
 
 winds. The only danger to be avoided when working into Trilo- 
 bitc Bay is a reef off" Ammonite Point, which includes a small 
 islet, and extends half a mile off-shore. The mark to clear this 
 reef, when running along the coast, is to keep Gun Island open to 
 the southward of Charles Island, and when hauling in from the 
 westward, into Trilobite Bay, keep the north point of Charles well 
 open to the southward of Whale Island. 
 
 Clear Water Point, about 2 miles westward of Ammonite 
 Point, and 2j miles westward of Whale Island, is low, and the 
 shoal water does not extend more than a quarter of a mile off it 
 to the southward. 
 
 69. The coast forms a large bay between Points Clear Water and 
 Esquimaux, along which there are high and conspicuous cliffs of 
 sand and clay, that distinguish this part of the coast to a vessel 
 at sea. The shoal water extends a considerable distance from 
 the shore all round this bay, and opposite Sea Cow Island, the 
 3 fathom mark is a mile out from the sandy beach. 
 
 Due west, and \\ miles from Clear Water Point, lies a rocky .3 
 fathom shoal ; and there are three others, with 2 fathoms, lying 
 to the northward of the first, and in a line from the point, towards 
 Walrus Island; the outer or westermost of them being rather 
 more than 2 miles from the point. 
 
 The mark for the outermost of these shoals is the south side 
 of the high land of Niapisca Island in one with the south point of 
 Gull Island, bearing N.W. by W. JW. ; or the north point of Fright 
 Island, on with the south side of Esquimaux Island, and open to 
 the southward of Green Island, bearing N. VV. by W. 
 
 The leading mark for passing outside these shoals, at the dis- 
 tance of half a mile, is the south points of Gull and Fright Islands 
 in one, bearing N. W. by W. 
 Walrutliland. Walrus Island lies 4 miles to the W. N. W. from Clear Water 
 Point, and Sea Cow Island is close to the N. E. of it. The two 
 islands together cover the space of 1 ^ miles in a N. E. direction, 
 and are steep and jjrccipitous, excepting to the southward, in which 
 direction the reef off Sea Cow Island extends three-quarters of 
 a mile, and that off Walrua Island, 200 fathoms. 
 
 Tlicrc is a clear channel to the eastward of these islaiulsi, and 
 also between them and the Clear Watir Shoals. This channel 
 is 1 } miles wide, ami, although not the best, may be used in pro- 
 
 Sea Cow Chan- 
 nel, 
 
I' 
 
 THE MIN6AN ISLANDS. 
 
 161 
 
 ceeding to Esquimaux Harbour from the eastward, by running 
 upon the leading mark, which has been given for clearing the 
 shoals to the westward of Clear Water Point, until the east sides of 
 Esquimaux and Walrus Islands come in one. Then steer for the 
 N. E. side of Sea Cow Island, and haul round it, at the dis- 
 tance of not less than 2 cables, to the north-westwaid for the east 
 entrance of the harbour. 
 
 Green Island, small, low, covered with grass, with reefs Green himd. 
 stretching north aud south, 210 fathoms, but bold to the east 
 and west, lies |^ of a mile W. N. W. from Walrus Island, and a 
 third of a mile E. S. E. from Esquimaux Island. 
 
 Gull Island lies a mile W. ^ S. from Green Island, which it Gull Maud. 
 resembles, excepting that it is rather smaller. It is distant half 
 a mile from the S. E. point of Esquimaux Island to the S. W., 
 but there is no passage for ships between them. The south 
 point of Gull Island is bold, and may safely be passed at the dis- 
 tance of 2 cables. 
 
 Esquimaux Island, 2i miles long parallel to the coast, and If Esquimaux 
 miles wide, is 200 or 250 feet high towards its north side, sloping 
 to the southward. From its S. W. point a shoal extends towards 
 Fright Island, which also has a shoal stretching towards Esqui- 
 maux Island. The channel between these, leading north-east- 
 ward towards Esquimaux Harbour, (see art. 70,) is 380 fathoms 
 wide, with extremely deep water, but as there are no leading 
 marks for it, and the reefs on either side are extremely dangerous, 
 it cannot be recommended. 
 
 Fright Island is nearly a mile from the west point of Frig/u is/awl. 
 Esquimaux Island, and about two-thirds of a mile long, in a N. E. 
 direction ; it is bold on the south and S. W., on which sides 
 vessels may pass at a cable's length, but reefs extend off it to the 
 east, N. E., and N. W., to the distance of three cables. 
 
 QuiN Island lies within, or N. E. by N. from Fright Island, Q««« /»/««</. 
 from which it is distant a short half mile, it is nearly 1;J 
 miles long in a N. N. E. direction, and its shores are bold, with 
 the exception of a broad reef running out half a mile to the 
 W. N. W. from its north point. 
 
 There is a channel, which is deep, but only two cables wide, F,;yhi Channel, 
 between Quin Island and the reefs off Fright Island. This chan- 
 nel may be used with a westerly wind for proceeding to Esqui- 
 maux Harbour, by hauling up to the east of Niapisca till the south 
 
162 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 
 
 Ksquimaux 
 Harbour, 
 
 end of Quin Island comes in one with the south side of the cove 
 in Esquimaux Island, bearing E. S. £., tlien steering so aa to 
 pass close round the south point of Quin Island, which is quite 
 bold, and thence E. by N. 2 miles, to the harbour, 
 
 Quin Channel. But the best channel from the westward towards Esquimaux 
 Harbour is between Quin Island and the main, which, at Point 
 aux Morts, is distant two-thirds of a mile to the N. N. E. from the 
 north point of the island. The shoal water extends only a cable's 
 length to the northward from the latter, but off Point aux Morts, 
 and also off the small islets which lie rather more than a third 
 of a mile to the W. N. W. from it, the reefs extend 200 fathoms 
 to the southward, and the shoal water is continuous to the east- 
 ward, across the mouth of the wide bay, which is to the 
 northward of the harbour, and between Point aux Morts and 
 Esquimaux Point. The depth of water in Quin channel is 
 from 5 to IJ fathoms, with rocky, gravelly, or sandy bottom. 
 
 10. Esquimaux Harbour lies between the north and N. E. 
 points of the island of the same name, and between that island 
 and the mainland. The island is 400 fathoms from Esqui- 
 maux Point, which bounds the N. E. part of the harbour. Esqui- 
 maux Point, having the entrance of a small river on its west side, 
 consists of sand, and is quite bold to the S. W., although shoals 
 extend from it across the bays on either side, as has been mentioned. 
 The north and N.E. points of Esquimaux Island are also bold, and 
 may be passed at the distance of 10 fathoms by the largest ships. 
 The depth within the harbour is from 5 to 15 fathoms, over a 
 sandy bottom. The space in which vessels may anchor is nearly 
 1^ miles long, in a N. W. ^ W. direction, which is the bearing of 
 the points of the island from each other, and the average breadth 
 of the harbour four cables' length. There is therefore room for 
 a great numlier of vessels, which, if they anchor well over towards 
 the island, (that is, within the line joining its north and N.E. 
 points, and in not more than 1 1 fathoms water,) will be sheltered 
 from all winds. Supplies of good water may be procured from 
 the river at Point Esquimaux, or from small streams on the 
 island, and woo<l is plentiful. 
 
 Brief directions have been already given for Sea Cow, Fright, 
 and Quin channels, leading to this excellent harbour. I shall now 
 describe the best channels from the eastward and westward. 
 
 (%mitrl. The best channel with easterly winds is between Walrus and 
 
 Ifuler. 
 
THE MINGAN ISLANDS. 
 
 163 
 
 Green Islands. This channel is three-quarters of a mile wide, Eiquimaux 
 with 8 fathoms least water, and it is only necessary to give cither 
 island a berth of 200 fathomb to be clear of all dangers. Being 
 2 or 3 miles outside of these islands, bring the N. E. point of 
 Esquimaux Island to appear about half way between the two islands 
 above mentioned as forming the channel, and it will bear about 
 north. Steer for it, and giving it a berth of a cable's length, haul 
 round it to the north-westward into the h; hour, and anchor in 
 the depth and position which has been recommended. 
 
 The best channel with westerly winds is to the westward of Niapisca 
 Fright and Quin Islands, between them and Niapirca Island, in ' 
 
 the first instance, and afterwards between Quin Island and the 
 main. The extent and position of the reefs oflF Fright and Quin 
 Islands have been already mentioned. Niapisca Island, however, 
 has reefs of flat limestone extending half a mile to the south- 
 ward ; and also a quarter of a mile to the eastward, from its 
 S. E. and east points, between which a very remarkable group of 
 flower-pot rocks will be seen standing on the limestone just above 
 high-water mark. From its east point, which is the south point of 
 a bay in the island, another reef runs out half a mile to the 
 N. E. by E., but there is ample space between these reefs and 
 Fright Island, the channel being over a mile wide in the narrowest 
 part, and between 30 and 40 fathoms deep. 
 
 In running for this channel from the westward observe the fol- 
 lowing directions. 
 
 First observe that the leading mark for clearing the south reef 
 of Niapisca Island by more than two cables' lengths, is the N. W. 
 point of Fright Island in one with the south end of Quin Island : 
 do not therefore open those islands clear of each other, until you 
 have brought Moniac Island (bearing N. JE. 2^ miles from the 
 nearest point of Niapisca) in sight to the eastward ol" Niapisca. 
 Having done so, haul in through the channel, steering N. N. E. 
 i E., and when you open Moutange Island (next westward of 
 Moniac) to the northward of Niapisca, you will be clear of the 
 N. E. by E. reef above mentioned. Haul up now, if necessary, to 
 clear the reef, which projects half a mile W. N. W. from the north 
 point of Quin Island, until you not only open the north point of 
 Esquimaux Island to the northward of Quin Island, but also the 
 north point of Sea Cow Island to the northward of Esquimaux 
 Island. Run in between Quin Island and the main, with the last- 
 
 M 2 
 
m 
 k 
 
 164 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENC 
 
 r- t 
 
 1 
 
 Etqmmaux 
 Harbour. 
 
 Point aux 
 Marts, 
 
 Tides. 
 
 named marks just open, bearing about S. 54° E., and they will 
 lead you past the north point of Quin Island, at the distance of 
 about 200 fathoms. 
 
 Take notice that the mark for the shoals off Point aux Morts, 
 and the small islets westward of it, is the north and N. E. points 
 of Esquimaux Island in one, bearing S. E. J E. ; if you open them 
 before you are as far to the eastward as Quin Island you will be 
 ashore. 
 
 Having passed Quin Island, continue your course towards the 
 north point of Esquimaux Island ; and haid round it to the south- 
 eastward into the harbour. 
 
 The tides usually run at the rate of about one knot through 
 Esquimaux Harbour, the flood coming round Clear Water Point 
 from the eastward, and passing to the westward between Quin 
 Island and the main. The ebb flows in the contrary direction. 
 
 The flood also draws in between Fright and Niapisca Islands, 
 and the ebb sets out through the same channel. But these 
 streams are much influenced, both in their rate and duration, by 
 the winds, and the ebb is much accelerated by westerly winds in 
 Esquimaux Harbour, running there at times fully 2 knots. 
 
 71. Niapisca Island, the reefs of which have been already 
 mentioned, is rather more than 2 miles long, on a norlh and south 
 line of bearing ; it is only partially wooded, and has three principal 
 hills, not exceeding 200 feet high. 
 Quarry Island. QuARRY Isi.AND, nearly 2^ milcs long parallel to the coast, and 
 about the same height as Niapisca, is separated from the latter by 
 a channel 370 fathoms wide, with a small islet in it, but no safe 
 passage for shipping, because of a shoal in the bay to the south- 
 ward, and of a reef which stretches beyond the small islet. 
 Other reefs also run out one-third of a mile from the west side of 
 Niapisca, and from the south side of Quarry Island. 
 
 Quarry Cove is on the north side, and two-thirds of a mile 
 to the north-westward of the east end of the island. It is 230 
 fathoms wide, and about 400 deep, with 22 fathoms of water 
 in the entrance, shoaling gradually to 5 fathoms with mud bottom 
 close to its head. The islands and shoals along the mainland 
 are distant only 3 milcs to the northward of this cove, which 
 thus l)ecomes a completely land-locked, though very small, har- 
 bour. No other directions are requisite, than keeping the west 
 side nearest on board in entering, and to anchor near the centre 
 
 Aiapisca 
 Island. 
 
 Quarry Cove. 
 
THE MINOAN ISLANDS. 
 
 165 
 
 in 9 or 10 fathoms. Good water may be obtained from a small 
 stream in the S. W. corner of the cove. 
 
 There is a clear cliannel between Quarry Island and Large Island, Qunntf 
 which is the next westward. This channel is 400 fathoms wide ""'" ' 
 from island to island, in the narrowest part, where the shoal water 
 off Large Island diminishes the navigable breadth to 330 fathoms. 
 The only directions necessary are to bring the channel to bear 
 N. N. E., and then run in, keeping in its centre until two-thirds 
 of a mile within the S. W. point of Quarry Island, after which 
 you may keep that island close on board, as the remainder of the 
 channel, 1^ miles, is quite bold on that side, while the shoal water 
 extends 150 fathoms from Large Island. The flood runs slowly Titles. 
 in through this channel, and the ebb as slowly out. 
 
 Large Island, of an oval shape, the longest diameter 4 miles. Large hland. 
 and lying nearly north and south, is rather more than 1 1 miles 
 in circumference, thickly wooded, and in its highest part estimated 
 at 200 feet above the sea. Reefs of flat limestone extend off its 
 south and S. W. points to the distance of nearly three-quarters of 
 a mile, and the mark for the south point of these reefs, in 2 
 fathoms, is the south points of Niapisca and Fright Islands in 
 one. On its west side, a mile to the northward of its S. W. point, 
 there are many flower-pot and arched rocks, standing on the flat 
 limestone above the present high-water mark. 
 
 The Middle Reef lies just within the line joining the south 
 points of Large and Mingan Islands, and 2 miles westward of the 
 former. A part of this reef is always above water, but it is not 
 30 fathoms in diameter, though the shoal around it is half a mile 
 long in a N. E. by N. direction, and one-third of a mile wide. 
 The mark for the east side of this reef, in 4 fathoms, is the cast 
 sides of the two Birch Islands in one. 
 
 The navigable passage between this reef and Large Island is large Chanml. 
 called Large Channel, and is If miles wide, With a depth of 54 
 fathoms. This is the channel that should be used by a vessel pro- 
 ceeding to Mingan Harbour with an easterly wind, and in doing so 
 the only thing necessary to be observed is, that the reefs extend to 
 the westward off the shore of Large Island, from 3 to 2 cables' 
 lengths, as far in as the Flower-pot Columns, after which the island 
 becomes bold. There is little or no warning by the lead on the 
 Large Island side, but the Middle Reef may be approached to 13 
 fathoms, which, on the east side, is more than half a mile from it. 
 

 166 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 i 'i 
 
 i 5 
 
 3 
 
 Mfld/e Reef 
 Channel. 
 
 Further in, the Birch Islands form the west side of this channel, 
 at the distance of nearly 2 miles from Large Island ; the east side 
 of the Outer Birch is quite bold, and the shoal water extends only 
 150 fathoms off the east end of the Inner Birch Island. 
 
 The Outer and Inner Birch Islands lie to the northward 
 of the Middle Reef, and in a line from it towards the west side of 
 Harbour Island. The channel between the Outer Birch Island 
 and the Middle Reef is almost a mile wide, and 30 fathoms deep, 
 aiid the shoal water extends only 150 fathoms from the south 
 point of the former. But there is a very dangerous reef off the 
 west side of the Outer Birch Island extending 650 fathoms from 
 the shore. The channel between the two Birch Islands is 300 
 fathoms wide, but the ground is all foul, and not more than 3j 
 Birch hinndt, fathoms could be carried through by a stranger. The Outer Birch 
 Island is about a mile in diameter, and about 300 feet in height, 
 and it has a remarkable flower- pot rock on its S.W. point. The 
 Inner Birch Island is rather larger; its N. W. point is long and 
 low, extending half a mile to the westward from the body of the 
 island, with a curve to the S. W. ; off this point there is a reef 
 running out half a mile to the westward, and having 12 fathoms 
 within a cable's length of its edge. 
 
 Half a mile to the S. W. uf the same point, there is a small 
 low islet, close to the douth point of which stands a very remark- 
 able rock, culled the Hulk Rock, from its resemblance to tiu> hulk 
 of a wrecked vessel. The reef of flat limestone, dry at low water, 
 which connects this islet and rock to the low west point of the 
 Inner Birch Island, extends 300 fathoms ofi^ the rock to the S. W., 
 and also 200 fathoms to the westward. 
 
 The flood tide sets out to the S. W. between the Birch Islands, 
 and also between theni and the Middle Reef. 
 
 Birch Channel, between the Birch Islands and Mingan IslaiKl, 
 is the best by which to proceed to Mingan Harbour with westerly 
 winds. It is 3 miles wide, and all deep water. 
 
 Mingan I.sland, 3^ miles to the westward of the Inner Birch 
 Island, is nearly 2 miles long, in a N.N.E. direction : and, in- 
 cluding two small islets close to its west side, nearly a mile broad. 
 It is about 100 feet in height, and bare of trees. The shoal water 
 dues not extend above 300 fathoms ofl* its south point, but to the 
 S. W. and west the reefs, including the islets, ruti out nearly G(M> 
 fatlumiM. The islaml is bold on its north and east aides. 
 
 Huik Rock. 
 
 Tide,. 
 
 liiirh 
 ChimneL 
 
 Ati Ill/an 
 JiUaiiU. 
 
THE MINGAN ISLANDS. 
 
 167 
 
 Hirch 
 in*l, in- 
 
 bruail. 
 
 I water 
 t to tlie 
 rly 600 
 
 Mingan Patch lies S. W. i^ S, 3j miles from the south point of Mngan Patch. 
 Mingan Island, and with the south point of the Outer Birch 
 on with the north point of Large Island ; it is a patch of rocky 
 ground, with 9 fathoms on it least water, yet there is a very heavy 
 swell on it at times. There are 22 fathoms of water between 
 it and the island. 
 
 The Perroquets, the westermost of the Mingan Islands, are four Perroqueii, 
 small islets, low, and bare of trees. The north-westermost is higher 
 than the others, surrounded with cliffs, and has a superstratum of 
 peat on its flat summit, in which great numbers of puffins burrow 
 and rear their young. 
 
 The two eastermost of these islets are distant 2 miles N.W. by W. 
 from the centre of Mingan Island, and have a reef of flat lime- 
 stone extending off them three-quarters of a mile to the S. S. W. 
 There is also a shoal to the northward of them one-third of a mile, 
 and a narrow channel between them and the other two, but of no use 
 to vessels. The north-westcrmoft islet has shoal water off it to the 
 distance of a quarter of a mile, both to the eastward and westward, 
 but a vessel may pass to the northward of it, at the distance of 
 200 fathoms, in 14 or 15 fathoms of water. Perroquct Ciiannel, Perroquet 
 between these islets and Mingan Island, is 1 J miles wide, and ^*"''"«'- 
 with a depth varying from 30 to 40 fathoms in the centre. 
 Both the flood and ebb set out through the channel, the former to Tides. 
 the S. W., and the latter to the southward. 
 
 12. All the ^?lands described in the last article are bohl, and Mingm 
 free from danger on their north sides, so that Mingan Channel, ^'*'"""'- 
 which lies between them and the main, is safe throughout 
 
 On the m-iii)land side of this channc*, Moniac Island is less MumaoanU 
 than half a mile in diameter, and stands nearly o]iposite Niapisca iJandt'' 
 Island, from whidi it is distant about 2|^ miles. Moutange 
 Island, 1^ miles further westward, is about \\ miles in diameter, 
 and situated ofl" a bay full of little islets, and in which there are 
 several smail riverr*. Moutange is directly op(K)site Quarry Island, 
 at the distance of 2\ miles. These islands, Moniac and Mouiange, 
 arc distant three-quarters of a mile from the nearest p«)int of the 
 main, but the shoals within and between tlicni arc nearly dry at 
 low watei . 
 
 The shoals do not project above three cables' length off to the 
 southward of thexc islands, but there is rocky ground, with irregular 
 soundings between 4 and 10 fathoms, out to tiie distance of a mile 
 
k 
 
 in 
 
 168 
 
 Mingan 
 Channe/. 
 
 Sand Lark 
 Reef. 
 
 i'' 
 
 Mingun 
 
 f £ 
 
 Channel 
 
 « ... 
 
 abreast lUrck 
 
 
 Js/and, 
 
 f,, , 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 ? 5 
 
 
 D ., 
 
 
 «4 
 
 abrtnit the 
 
 f 1 
 
 Perruqiieta. 
 
 tjong I'omt. 
 
 Miugan 
 Harbour, 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 to the southward of them both ; so that a vessel beating in the 
 Mingan channel had better not stand over to the northward beyond 
 li miles from the northern shores of the outer islands, or into less 
 than 10 fathoms. 
 
 Sand Lark Reef, 3i miles N. W. by W. of Moutange Island, 
 2i miles £. S. E. from Harbour Island Mingan, and rather more 
 than a mile from the mainland, is small and low, but always 
 above water. The shoal water does not extend off it above a 
 cable's length, and there is a clear channel with deep water on 
 all sides of it ; but there is a rocky patch, with 5 fathoms of water, 
 H miles from it on a line towards the south side of Moutange 
 Island. This shoal water has not been particularly examined, 
 and should therefore be avoided. 
 
 Between the Inner Birch Island and Harbour Island, the Mingan 
 Channel is If miles wide, with rocky and irregular soundings, be- 
 tween 7 and 20 fathoms. The deepest water is over towards the 
 Birch Island, where the bottom is generally of sand, gravel, and 
 shells. 
 
 Between the Perroquets and Long Point, and also between Min- 
 gan Island and the latter, the Mingan Channel is 2-J miles wide, and 
 free from all danger, excepting a sandy shoal which extends off the 
 shore, immediately to the westward of Long Point, to within a 
 mile of the Perroquets. There is often a great ripple off this 
 shoal caused by the flood tide being turned off by Long Point 
 towards the S. W. This channel may be conveniently used, in 
 going to Mingan Harbour with a northerly wind. 
 
 Long Point consists of sand, and there is a fine beach from 
 thence to the eastward, as far as Mingan Harbour inclusive. 
 
 Mingan Harbour is the narrow and well-sheltered space 
 between Harbour Island and the mainland, which last is low and 
 has a iinc sandy beach, while the island is of limestone, about 
 100 feet in height, precipitous and bold towards the harbour, 
 but shelving and shoal to the southward to the distance of a 
 quarter of a mile from the shore. The length of the island is 
 2 niikz, its greatest breadth does not amount to half a mile, and 
 it is thickly wooded. 
 
 The reefs off the cast and west ends of the island, and which 
 are the principal things to guard against in entering the harbour, 
 extend 240 fathoms out from tlic high-water mark. 
 
 The mainland rtccdcs from the island in the eastern part of the 
 
THE MINGAN ISLANDS. 
 
 169 
 
 harbour, which would, in consequence, be exposed to easterly Mingan 
 winds, if it were not for a sandy shoal, dry at low water, which 
 extends 700 fathoms out from the entrance of the Mingan River. 
 This river is only capable of admitting boats at high-water, and 
 its mouth is opposite the east end of the island. The eastern 
 entrance of the harbour, between the above sandy shoal and 
 the island, is 200 fathoms wide, the western entrance between 
 the mainland and the island is 170 fathoms wide, the whole 
 breadth in both entrances beirg in deep water. The space within, 
 in which vessels may anchor in safety, is about a mile long by 270 
 fathoms wide, with plenty of water for the largest ships, over a 
 bottom of fine sand. 
 
 Although these entrances are so narrow, there is little difficulty 
 in taking a vessel in of the size of a sloop of war, and larg ■ 
 frigates have occasionally visited the harbour. 
 
 To enter Mingan Harbour observe the following directions. Uirrctwns for 
 
 In approaching it from the eastward, bring the north or inner ^"'"^'"!f' 
 side of Harbour Island to bear N. W., and the houses of the Hudson 
 Bay Company's post ought then to appear open fully their own 
 breadth to the northward of the island. Steer for those houses so 
 open, leaving the east end of the island 1.50 fathoms to the south- 
 ward, or on j'our left, and taking care to keep the south side of 
 the sandy point of the main, which forms the western entrance of 
 the harbour, shut in behind the north side of t' , island, for when 
 they are in one, you will be on shore on t. „ sandy ahoal off 
 Mingan River. After you have passed the e»-': en J of the island, 
 run along its north side at the distance of a fable, and dioose your 
 l)erth anywhere near the centre of the '-.arbnur in from 9 to 13 
 fathoms sand bottom. 
 
 When running for the harbour from the westward ; run ii< 
 towards the sandy beach of the mainland ut the distance of tliree- 
 ({uartcrs of a mile to the westward of tiic island, until the sandy 
 point of the mainland, which forms the wrst er.d of the harbour, 
 conies in one with the face of the clny cliffs, to the east^. urd of 
 the Hutlson Bay Company's houses, bearing E. by S., or 'intil 
 you are in 11 fathoms water. Run upcm this mark, or course, 
 along the beach, and give the above sandy point uf the inaii:liind 
 a l)crth of half a cable, as you pass into the harbour, and ihoosc 
 your berth as before directed. 
 
 irt of the 
 
t:: 
 
 i- 1 
 
 i 
 
 r 1 
 
 vX'ii "^'X-vb \'b 
 
 170 
 
 Mingan 
 Harbour. 
 
 Oiitrr Banks, 
 
 l/iiiff I'oiiil to 
 St, John Hiier, 
 
 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Mingan Harbour ie perfectly secure in all winds, and, like 
 Esquimaux Harbour, it has this great advantage, that vessels can 
 enter or leave it either with easterly or westerly winds. 
 
 The Banks of Soundings which extend off the Mingan Islands 
 towards Anticosti have been already mentioned (art. 22.), and it 
 is only necessary to add here, that their southern edge, in 50 
 fathoms, is no less than 5 miles off from the islands, and that the 
 banks become wider, or extend further off, as we proceed to the 
 westward. There is much greater depth of water in some of the 
 channels between the islands, than there is on these banks, as 
 will be seen by the chart. 
 
 From Long Point a broad beach of fine sand reaches to the 
 river St. John, which was described in the preceding Chapter, 
 and the chart will show that an irregular band of shoal water lies 
 outside of this beach, at the distance of three-quarters of a mile. 
 
 
 
 Lunduu t I'lialKl by W, llLovriii and SoNi, Stuiiiluid ttri'Ct 
 
 yi<^-^'Cp .ifc"" . 'f r/'r.-^^ 
 
inds, and, like 
 hat vessels can 
 ids. 
 
 klingan Islands 
 rt. 22.), and it 
 n edge, in 50 
 Is, and that the 
 proceed to the 
 in some of the 
 hese banks, as 
 
 reaches to the 
 eding Cha])ter, 
 ihoal water lies 
 ;r8 of a mile. 
 
 Unai 
 
 'Ic rAr, -^