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AI
I
i
.^■■.
THE
ARCTIC AND ANTMCTIC REGIONS.
LONDON : I'lllNTlU) liV
brOTTISWOODK ANll CU., NK\V-STlll;lir SQIAIIB
AND PAULIAMIINT bTllBlST
I
fl^
Ifl
THE POLAR WORLD:
A I'uI'LI.AH lil;.«i IlII'I ION ul"
MAN AND NATURE
IN riir
AUCTIC AM) ANTAIJCTIC lUXilUNS UF TIIK GLOIJK.
IJV
DR. G. HAUTWIG,
AT lllilll lit'
' lilK ."KA AM) ITsi I.IVINc; UdMlICUS,' 'Till: llAllMi'MKrt OK NATUIIK,"
AMJ 'Tin; TUorifAl. Uulil.U,'
ir/n/ i:ji;i/r riii:uMoxyi.i'(in.\i-iiir n.Mrs, 7111:1:1: mm-s, asd
svMi:n>'rs woovccTS.
NATIONAL I\i.."::UH
OF Cix^A.^A
LONDON:
L X G M A N S, G li l- E X, A X D C O.
18()J).
012181
1 1 KID):
1
PIJEFACK.
1 "l^"- \Vo,.M in i,s prinri,,,,! ,,,u„,,l fc,t„,,„, ,„
T'" '"" ""■ '"""^■"'■- "!• i'^ l"",u wintor-ni.!,. ,„„1
^':""f '"' '■'■ "" '!"■ 'l-v. I. .,,.„,..„, or v,..,.,,.;i,!c. ,„„1
ai.MM.1 ...v,s...M,v. „n,l .i„,,||_v ,„ |,i,,,„,,, ,„„„ ■,,.,„ j|^_,
,,'"'■,"' '"'■ '•'■-■''"^' II'" •''•-•■"ll-Ml .linrnto „ni,o'l,i,r|,
,""'"'"'"■ ^'"'"' '■''l»-'' .-'^ ll.c- inhal.il.ni „f their
^'' '>: "''"'"'"^ '"■ "^ ll.e bold invosii-ntor of tli.i,
. '''''!' '■''' '■ ''"""'"'■' ^l'"«-s ,1„. f;,vnt vurielv of in-
teivM,,,,- s„i,j,,,. .,„i,,„,,,, „. , ,, „„„,„,,,,,^i;.,,,. ._
oomoy s„l„l in.stn„.lion undw an ..ntcTt.iniMs fonn I
v«.nnv,„ l,„|„. ,|.„ „,„ |,„,|i, ,,;„ ^,,.^„,, -„^.^ _;^^
n. HAHTWir;.
"i:il)Ki,iii:);f;: Juinidn/ 2. ]S(!!I.
The l!ai
Illcl'
I.V th,
'I'll.. V
.VmimI:,
Srvcri
Wiii.ls
M.IM ;,
Cliiiiat
Di'.Om
Nigiits
The. |{,.in,
l-AllViol
li'ail;:!' I
Glutton
Thr Wi
l-"oX -It
Aiiati.la
l»rw\\:i,-
The 1
illlTrll (tnnill
C'OXTKXTS.
I'AIM' I.
tin: AiH'Trc' imkjioxs.
CIIAIMKI; 1.
nil: Ai;' ill' i.anips.
N 111- 'I'liii'lii Aliiuiilaiu'i' lit' Alii mill Life on tlicTuiKlri in Siiin-
■<Ilo\V
Sill in'c ami Krsiilatioii in AViiiiiT I'luti'ctiuii iiliuniitl tu N'lgftaii'pu
- l''|u\vir-i^ri)Wth in tin.' liinhi'sf Latitnilis — Cliiirai'li'P itf 'I'nniliJi
Scjutlnrn Uuuiulary-linf oi tlu- JJari'i ii (irnnn<ls- 'I'ln^ir J'lxtcnt —
'i'hi- l'■(l^^•^t /iini! — Ai'i'tiL- Trers Sluwntss of tlu'ir (innvtli— Moiiutonv of tlio
l.\ th
Vciit/iation
Ndi'tlirrn Kiiri'!-t>
M.
ijniti
'J'lir various Cau.ses Mliioli (litcrniinc tlio
Srvi-rii y 111" an An-tii' Cliniali' Insular ami Cuntincntal I'u^itinn— Currcnls —
Wituls— llxtrmn s of Col. I olisirvid hy Sir H. IJilclicr ami Dr. Kani'— How is
Man aMc to suiniort tiir Ki^ours of an Ar>'tic Winter? I'ronfs of u niikli-r
t'liniato liaviin; oni'i' rciirncil in tlui Arctii.' Kc^ions — Its Causo arconlinL' to
l»i'.('-\\alil Hi'i'r — IV'culiai' 15oauti('M)f the Arrtii' lu'i^i'ins— Siinsi't — L«ii^' Lunar
.Nij,'lils — Tin' AnroiM ... ... Pag.' :i
(TiAi'ri:i; ii
Ai!< 111' i..\M> i,ir.\i'i;ri'i;ii> .wm i;ii;ii.>.
TIr' Hi'in>IiH'r— Struct uri' of its I''uol — Clattirin^ Noise wliuii Walking — ^XntliTs —
Mxiraonlinary Olfai'ti^ry I'owi'rs — The loilandiL- ^loss— I'rcsfnl aiul fornu i*
IJan;:!' of tlu" Utimln'r — Its invaluaMi' Qualititsi ns an Ari'tic ilonustii- Anini.il
--luvolts aL'ainsi Opjiression— Knemii's of tin* Hcindcer— Thr Wolf— Tlio
(Jlutloii or AVolveriiU'— Gad-fliis — The Kl!; or Moose Deer — The Musk ().\
Till' Wild Shei'j) of the Hoeky .Mountains— The Silieriaii Alkali- The .\ relic
\-\<x Its lUirrows-The Liinniings — Their .M. -rations and Kiiemie.s Arelie
Aiiatida' — Till' Snow I'untiny — 'l"!ie I.a|iland 15unliiig— The Sea Kaiile
llrowni'd I'V a I)ol]ihin ...... ... 17
VI 11
CONTEXTS.
CITAPTKR JIT.
Tlir: ARCTIC SEAS.
Diiiigors ppculiiir to the Arctic Spii---I('o-fi('MH — ITnmmockH — Collision of Ice
fields — Icc-ltcr^s— Tlicir Oriijiii- Their Size — Tiie (ilaciiTM which ^'ive liiciii
JJirlh — Their l»cauly — .'^onietiiucs useful Auxiliaries to the Mariner — Dangei-si.i
Auchorinp; to ii I'crg— A crumlding IJcrg — The Ice-Mink— Fogs— Transparency
of the Atmosphere — I'lienonuiui of luflection anil Kefraction — Causes whii'li
prevent the Accumulation of Polar Ico— Tides —CurrenLs — Ice a bad Comluctor
ofJIeat — Wise Provisions of Nature ...... Page 'JH
CllArTKR IV.
AKCTic marim: animals.
Populousncss of tlio Arctic Se.'is — The <ir(enl;in<l Wlialc — TIio Fin AVhalc--
The Narwhal -Tiio Peluga, (U- White Dolphin— Tiie lllack Dolphin —His whoh-
salc Massacre on the I''aeroe Islands — Tlie Ore or Or.'impns The Seals — Tin-
Walrus — Its acute Smell — History of ayouui; Walrus — Parental AtVection — Tlh
Polar I5ear — His S;«gjicity — Iliberniition of llie She-Hear — Sea P»irds , -lu
CHAPTKR V.
K KI.ANK.
Volcanic Origin of the Isliuul — The Klofa Jokull- T.ava Streams — The Puniin;:
Mountains of Krisuvik — The Mud Caldrons of Keykjahlid -Tiie T\inLro-hver :it
Iveykliolt —The Great fJeysir— The Strokkr— Crystal Pools -The Alniannagja —
The Surts h.llir— Beautiful lee-cave - The Gotlia Foss— The iVtti Foss— Cli-
mate — Vegetation — Cattle Parharous Jtode of Sheep-shearing Reindeer —
J'olar Pears — Pirds— The Eider-duck — Videy -Vigr -The Wild Swan— The
liavcn — Tlie Jerfalcon— The Giant Auk or Geirfugl — Fish — l''isliing Sea«o\i —
'J'he White Sh.'trk—Miiii'ral Kingdom— Suljihur— Peat Drift Wood . jc
CHAPTFU VI.
TITSTORY OF ICf.l.AVP.
Discover}- of the Island by Nadilodr in 861 — Giirdar — Floki of the Parens — Ingolfr
and Leif— I'llliot the Lawgiver — The Althing —Thiugvalla -Introduction et
Christianity into the Island — Frederick the Saxon and Thorwald the Traveller
— Thangbrand— Golden AiXi^ of Icelandic liiterature — Snorri Slurleson — Thf
IslaTid sulimits to Hakon, Kinir of Norway, in 12>)1 —Long Series of Cal;imilii-
— Great l-'rujition of the Skapta iTiiknll in ITSTs -Commercial Monopoly -
Pefter Times in jirospect .......... 7:!
rOXTKXTS.
IX
( lI.\rTF-R VII.
iion of It'''-
1 ffivi' llu'iii
— DangcTfiiil
ranf^part'iuv
uu(-i'^ wliii'li
d Coiitluotor
Pagf 'Jli
Tfir icKi.AxnKns.
t^kalliolt — Rrykjavik— T.'io I'air — Tlio Poat^aiit niul tlio Metvliaiif — A f'lurpfynian
in hi-i Tnjis — Hay-makinsr — Tlio IcclandiT's Hut — ClmrclKs — I'ovcrty of tlic
('|,.,.jry_-J,;n Tlmrlakson -The Si'iniuary of IJcykjavik — 15riKfii'i;!l Influence of
tlif Cli'rpry — Uonii' lvlucati(Mi— The Icelander's Winter's Evening — Taste fur
liiterature— 'J'lii' Lani,ninL'" - 'J'lie Pulilie Li1irary.it Ixeykjavik— The leelnndif
Literary .Society — Icelamlic NewKpapers— Jjoiifrevity — Leprosy — Travel linjr in
Iceland — Fordinc the Pivers— Crossinp of the Skeidara by Mr. Holland — A
Nidit'-; liivonae Page 8.')
Ill Wliales —
.- Ilis whoh-
. Seals— Til.'
Tection— The
Is . Ill
il'lie Puniiiiir
un;.'o-hver at
niaiinaiija —
i l-'i)ss— C'li-
Reindeer —
Swan — Til''
llg Seas(i\i —
d . iJi'
Ins — liipfnlfr
Induction et
Traveller
lleson — Till'
I Calamitii'-
klonopoly -
niAPTHU viri.
Tin: wi'STM.w isi,.\Nn,«.
The \\'e>itmans— Their extreme Diffii-ully of Access IIow they hceame peopled
— lleiniaey — Kaufstathir and (Haiihyte Sheep Hoisting— .I'^gg Gathenng —
I>i'radful Mortality among tlie Cliildren - The Oinkluti — Gentleman John
— Tile Algerian Pirates - Dreadful Sufferings of the Islanders . , . 103
("HAPTKH IX.
1 uoM nnoxTiiEiM TO Tin: n<'>I!TH cwk.
IVIild Climate of the Norwegian Coa.st — Its Causes - The Norwegian Peasant -
Norwegian Constitution- Homanlic Coast Scenery- I'rontheim - (iieitliiil'eld
— Holme and Vitre — The Sea-F.agh — -The Herring I'isheries— Tlie Lofuii'ii
Islands —The Cod Fisheries — Wretched Condition of the Fi.shermen Tnjmsc'i —
Aheiifiord — The Copper Mines -H.immerfest the most Northern Town in the
World "The North Cape lOi)
(11 Al'Tlli; X.
SITTZIU-IMKN'— 1!I:A1; 1SI..\NI) — .1.\\ .MKYKV.
The West Coast of Spitzhergen — Ascension of a Mountain hy Dr. Scoreshy-IIis
lAeiu'sion along the Coast — .\ stranded Whale — .M.'igdaleiia I'ay - .Multitudr^; of
Se.i-hirds — .\nimal Life — Miilniirht Silence- Glaciers— A danererous Nei^'hlMjur-
Imod — Interior Plateau -l''lora of Spitzhergen— lis Similarity witli that of the
-Mjis ahove the Snow-line — liein(h'er -The hyperhorean Ptarmigan- Fishes —
Colli -Priflwood -Discovery (jf Spitzhergen liy Harentz, Heeniskerk, and Kyp
— l'>rilliant Period of the Whale-fishery — Collins Fight I'^iglish Sailors winter
in Spitzhergen, 1GI50 —Melancholy Death of some Dutch Volunteers — Russian
Hunters — Their Mode of Wintering in Sj>itzliergen — Scharostin — Walrus Ships
from Hamrnerfest and Tromsii — Hear or Cherie Island — Rennet — Flnoriiious
{ Sl.iughtcr of Walruses— Mildness of its Climate — Mount Misery — Adventurous
■ i'lo.it Voyage of some Norwegian Sailors --.T;in Meyer— Reercnlierg . . 122
x
CdXTHNTS.
CITAI'THI! XI,
\ M\ \ V.\ / I; M I, Y A,
T'l.' Sci Mt' KaiM - I/isolikiii -Kipsiiivsslow — Liitke — Kroluw I'liclitussow — Sail»
.iloii!,' I 111; Hiistoi'ii CuMst of the iSuiitliern l>liiiul to .Matosi'likiii Schnv — III-
Scouiul \'o_vage ami J)i'atli — .Metoorologieal OKsiTvatiuiiw of Ziwolka Tho Oulil
SiiiiiiiiiT of Xiivava /.ciiilyii — Von liaor';-; scientific Vuyaj^e to Xovaya /t'liily;;
— His Advcntuivs in 3Iatoselikin Si-luir- Stoi'm in Kot^tin Siliar— Hea JJat!:
.111(1 Witivn (.'I'oss -I'otaniL'al Observations — A natural Garden — Solitude umi
Silence - A liir.l-IIazaar llnnlin;.' I'.Npediiions of the Kussians to Novav.i
/ciiil\a ............ Pace 1 l^
I'll.MTKi; Xll.
I 111; I. API'S.
'J'heir ancient History and Cunveision to ('iiri.>?tiaiiily— Self-denial and Poverty i.:
the Lajjiainl (.'lerjiy -Their sinrruhir Mode of Preaching- (.Jro-ss Suiierslitiui.
of the J.ajips — Tiic Kvil Spirit of llu* AVo(jds— The Lapland Witches — Physical
(,V)nstitution (jf llie Lap{)s— Tlu'ir Dress — The I'jiilllappars — Their Dwellings —
■ton; Houses - lu'indeer Pens -Milking the Keindcer — .Mignitiinia - The Laj-
land Dog- Skiders, or Skates — The Sledge, or Pulka--X;itural JJeautios of Lap-
land — Attachment of the Lapps to tiieir Country — Hear ILmting — W(jlf Hniitii.g
— Mode of Living of tlu' wcaltliy Laj'ps— How they kill the ]{i in.lrer — Visit-
ing the Fair— Mammon Worship — Treasure Hiding — "Tabak, or Hraende"—
Affoctionale iyisj)usition of the Lapps — The Skogslapp— The Fisherlapp . l.'il
A .S
IMI.
uiicieii
m
Wli.it is t
M-liii'ii
Til. I
C"\'jn;-i
Iv.in tlie 7'
\\nu- to .'
.siansto (
Kii<si;in
I'miitsrhi
.■scli.iLiiii'i
liiicliow 1
I'asf Agrx
ClIAl'I'lCK XIII.
.MAIIIIIAS Al.i;\ANI)i:i; rAslKLX.
His llirtliplace ami first Studies —Journey in Lapland, 1N38 — The Iwalojoki—
The liake of iMiara — The Pastor of I'tzjoki — Prom ]{o\\anienii to Keini— Se-
cond \'oyage, 1811-41 — Storm on the AVhito Si'a — luturn to Archangel— Tin
Tundras of the European S.imojedes — Mescn — Univtrsal Drunkenness — Sleil-'
Journey to Pustosersk A Samojede Teacher — Tundra ."^torms — AliaiiiloiH :
and alone in the Wilderness — Pustosersk — Our Trivveller's Persecutions a:
Ustsylmsk and L»hemsk — The I'tisa — Cros.sing the Ural — Obdorsk— Seiin!
Silurian Journey, 1S1.')-18 — Overllowing of tiie Obi— Surgut — Krasnojai-k
—Agreeable Surprise — Turuehausk — Voyage down the Jenissei— Castrcii-
Study at J'hu'hina — Prom Dudinka to Tolstoi Xoss — Frozen Feet — Itetun.
Voyage to the South — Frozen fast on thf Jeiiissci Wonderful Preservation-
Jo i! 'uey across tlio Chinese Frontiers, and to Trausl.aikaliu — Peturn to Finlaii'i
— Professors^hip at Hclsingfors— Death of Castrcn. IS.").") . . . .17!
Sibi i'la — ft^
Iln|,,_T(l|lk
Heal :u\.\ (
\\V;,/,.l --'J
itiLT Ilare-
f'f the Pu-
— Hxiicn-e
■"eilnnnoiis
■']"ir-r IiIm.,
,^Ni-lmc-TaL
■I
CHAPTKK XIV,
r n i; s A M I) ,1 i; i> \: s.
Their Harbarisin— Num. or Jiiibeambaert je — Shamunism -Samojede Llols - Sj,;
diei -Halie — The Tadebtsios, or Spiribs — The Tadibes, or .Sorcerers — The:
what Pur
ulti.'S and
;l?fiii'm en 'I
f . l..i:.-S,,
iiind
'^,
C<».\TK.NTS.
M
ow— SuiU
^har — Hi«
-Tho CjM
;i Zeiulyii
-Hen r>at!;
litudf au'i
Novav:i
PllilO 11''
[)i-,.s>--Tlioir Invocations — Tin ir cuiijurinfr Tricl-'^ — Hovrrrnrr'paid to tlio Pciid
A SiiiiKpjrdo Oath -Appcaraiu-f of ilii' Samojcilos — Tliiir Dress- A Saniojnlc
P.iHo -Cliarai'ti r ot' tlip Samojodos Tlirir dcfreasiiii: NumljorH — Traditions of
i.noiciit. llfToos Pafri' 1S7
ClIAl'TKI^ XV.
im: iisi.i.\K>.
\Vli;it is tilt" Olii? Inundations - An Ovtjak Sunimrr Jurt — Povrrty of tlio Ostjak
lM>hirnii n -A AVi liter Jurt Altaclmi'nt of the Ostjaks to their ancient ("us-
imiis An I'vtjak I'riiie( — Ai'cliery — Ajipearance and Character of tin'Osijaks
Til. I'air ol'Olr.lui^k I'.KJ
I'oViTly ' ;
suiierstitioii
i— Piiysical
Jwelliuf^s-
- The Lai-
ties of Lap-
olf Iluntiii.'
Jeer— Vi^ii-
l>racndu "—
app . I'''
Ihvalojoki—
]\enii— •'^L-
laii{^el — Tl;i
loss-Si.'.!^'
■Al'aiidoiii';
'cutiuiis ;i'.
^sk— Secoi"!
[vrasiiojai'-i;
Ca.^lrc'.i-
[rt— Retiiri.
(fiervatioii
to Fililaiii
V cifAPrK!; xvr.
t'MN.jn:-! nr >ii;i:i;i.\ \.\ mi: i.m'.-sians — riinii; viiva(,i;> of ulxtivkuy
Ai.uNi; nil: ^iiiii;i:s (n- tiii: ioi.ai; f<i:A.
Ivan tho Terril>l( — Strogonoff— Ymnak tlio Rol)!>or and Conqueror — His Expodi-
lioiis to Silicvia — llattle of Tol'olsk — Verniak's Death— Prorrress of the Rus-
sians to Ochotsk -Seniei) Deshnew - Condition of theSilierian Natives under tho
Ii'iw'-ian Yoke Voyaircs of !ii>c(ivrry in the Piiirii of llie Ijiipress Anna —
i'nmtsi-hi-clit.-.'liow- Chariton and Demetrius Lajitiw — An arctic Heroine —
Schalanrow — I>i^coveriis in tlio Si-a of P>clirinpr and in tho Pacific Ocean — The
Liichow Island- -i''ossil Ivory -N'W SiKi-ria — Tho Wooden Mountains — 'J'he
iMst Ami- of Sil.rria . 20.')
cuAPTi;i; XVII.
.-II'.KK'IA — Kli; ri.'AI'i: AM> (iuLli-niiiciXi;
.d(ds -S'l
I'crs - Till'
■1
1
SiliiM.i — It- ininieii^.' Ivxtcnl and Capal'ilities — 'i'lie l-Xiles — Mentschikoff—
Iiojoixroiiky Miiiiich— Till- Criminal- - Tin ■ free ."^ilieri.in Prasant- Fxtreinisof
IlesU and Cold — Fnr-liearing Animals — The Sahle — Thf Krniino — The Sil.rrian
\V,a/rl -■{■he S-a Otter- ThcT.lack I'ox - The Lynx Th.^ Squirrel 'I'lir \'ary-
iiiLf Hare The Suslik- -Iniimrtance of ihu Fur Trade tor the Northern Provinees
of the Russian l-aiipiiv - The (iold DiirL'intrs of l-/istorn Siberia -Tho 'J'aiiia
'— Hxpen-es an<l Dilhoultics of Sta.rchinp; l^siirdiiimis Cu-t (.f I'roduco and
t li'ir-iiMii- Profits of successful Speculators -Their Muscless lvxtravaL''anc( —
]'ii-i Ili-covi'i'v of Hold in the I'ral Mountains — fakowlew and Memidnw —
'> -huc-Tauil-k ... 'JUS
(.IIAI'IKK XVIIl.
MI|i|>1.Mhi|;ii ',- AhVr.Mll.T.s IV I Al M I l;l.A\ |i,
For'.vl.it I'ari.o-,' %va-- Middriidorir- \"oya^n to ■i",-i:niur!,ind undertaken?- Dif1i-
ciiI'i->. mikI ( )I.-taeI( s I-'xpeditioii down the Taitnur Fiver to the Polar Si'.a —
_Pt.inu on Tainiur Fake- Loss of tho i>oai — MiddendorflT ill and alone in 7o^
K. I.ai, — Saved l»y a |.a'ateful Saniojede- Climate and Vepitation of Taininr-
lii'l '^tO
Xll
CONTENTS.
CHAl'TEK MX.
IJIK JAKl IS.
Tli''ir fncr^ctio Niitioiialitv — 'I'hcir Dcscfiit- 'I'lieir gluoiny Charaetcr— iSiiiiiiinr
ami NVinti.T Dwilliiifis - The Jakut Jlorwu - Iiut v4i.'j1o Powors o( luuliirancL' n:
l.lio .Jakiits--'J'lifir Sharjiiicss of VisiDii — Surprising local Memory — Tluir
manual Dexterity Jieatlier, I'oniarils, Carpet.s - Jakul (ilultmis— Superstitirjth
l*'ear of the ^rotuilaiii Spirit Ljc-chei — Offerin^.s uf Ilurse-hair — Jiiipruvi.-ud
Songs — Tile liiver Jakut ........ Page 2.j:'
(JH.VPTHR X.\'.
\\i!AX()i:r-.
Ilif* dihtinguisli'.J Services as an Aretie l^xplorer — Fnaii Petersburg to Jakui.-k
in l«2(t— Trade of Jivkut.sk— From Jakutsk to Nislmo Kolyni^k— The liaila
rany — Dreadful Climate of Ni.slmo Kolymsk — Summer Phmues — Vegetation-
Aiiimal Life — Reindeer Hunting — Famine — Inuiuiations--Tlie Siberian Dn^'-
Fir.st Journey.s over tlic Ico of the Polar Sea, and Exploration of tho Cuii-
beyond Cape Shelagskoi in I82I — Dreadful Dangers and Hardships — Matiusc!:-
kin's Sledge Journey over the Polar Sea in IS'J'J — Last Adventures on tho Pol.i:
Sea — A Kun for Life— Ketuni to St. Peter,sljurg 2')v
CHAPTHU XXJ.
Tin; Tixuusr,
'J'heir Relationship to the Mandsehu- Dnadful Conditiiju of the Outcast Xoiii.i:
— Ciiaracler of the Tungusi— Their Outfit for tho Cha^e — I'xar lluntiiii.'
Dwellings — Diet - A Nighl'.'i Halt witli Tur.gusi iu the Forest — Ochotsk . l!;
I'HAl'TKR XXIL
tilOOKill': WlLl.lA.M STKLLEH.
His Birth— Enters the Russian Service — Scientific Journey to Kamtschatka .V
companies IJehring on his Seeoml Voyage of DiHCovery — Lands on tlie DIn'
of i\aiak -Sliameful Coiuhut of iJeliring— Shipwreck on lichriug Jshiml-
iJeiiriiig".'^ Death — Return to Kamtschatka — L(;ss of Property — Persecutieii>
the Siberian Authorities— Frozen to Death at Tjnnieii .... 'd>.
CHAPTER XXllI.
Tile I.,
T) — ]',•
lo JiiuceH
•ji' or S^'i
Bell ring
IJelirii
--Tlie
Cll.lsili
It
ijlleil' \vi(
■A -M'l'-ar,
lajAj.parai
ee —'Hie
-Variu
Hiiiiiiii^
•iallles ,1
liiirliuk-
of J»istc£
thi Cuiirei
- I'll!' Ti\u
, befW,., 11 )
- Their
./•Jlii'Non's
,,01 ill,. Ci
, JJi'Muii j;,
I,,. I'iiie .Marl
{8|ll.:ll I'isl,
. I.yiix ,,[■ i^
K.\Mi.S(.ll.\lKA.
Climate — Fertility- - Lu.xuriant Vegetation — Fish Sea liirds — Kamt.schatkan Bi^
catchers — TIu^ Ray of Av.atscha — Petropaulow.sk — The Kamt.sch.itkans — Tl/
jijiysical and moral Qualities — The Fritillaria surrana — The Mucluinior — ]h\'
— Dogs :'
v.iriiiiis ■
ars with
for 111, ji- ( ■
^''■'■^-Th,
'^f
-R
COxNTKNTi?.
X)ll
mlurance c!
uory— Tluir
■luiierstitiou-
-lini)ruviM':
•g to Jakul^k
:_Tho IJa.lii-
-Vi'gi'tation-
iljcriiin l)<>'i-
of the Cull'-
j,s—M:itiuxch-
■s on tho Pol;,:
ill- lluiitiiii;
.•liutsli . -
CHAPTER XXIV.
iiiK Tcmn.'iii.
Tlir Laii'l o," the 'IVlmi.hi — Tluir iiulijiciuk'iit Si'irit ami comnuTcial Entci'iiriso
..j _p,.q'.iu;il Mitrrutioiis — Tlir ]''air of Ostrowmijc -Visit in a Tuluiti'li Polo;? —
to Jiiiits— TiliuU-!i JKijadeivs— Tiif Ti'iiiiVLrk or JU'iiidc it T^liuti'lii— Tin- (>iikil<iii
•j'u or SciUnitarv Tolmtchi— Their M iilo o:' LilV' Pago 208
All
•).'.
-I
i;i;iii;iNi
CIIAPTHU XXV.
SKA --Tin: KISSIAN l-l'K rdMl'AW — TlIK A!,i:i"-TS.
Biiiiini,' Sea - liialasrhka -Tin' PriMlow l.-laudb -St. Matthew- St. Laurcia'.' —
lirhrinu""- Straits -Tlio Russiau J'"ur Conn'any — Tho Alciits Their Charaeter
- -TIk ir Skill ami Iiitre['i(lity in iruutinif the Sea Otter— The Sea IJear — AVhalo
riiasiii''- Walrus Slaut'htir — The Sea Lion ...... 30G
At.
itseluitka A
i on the l^lii!
rinj; Islar.'l-
\'rseeuti(in>
Lehatkan r>i
■latkans — Tl
i'hanior — I'"
CllAPTKU XXVI.
riii; K.si^LiMAi'X.
.Tii'ir wide Kxtension - (Miniate of tho Refiious they inhahil — Their i>!iy!-ieai
.4 ,\i.iiearanoe — Their Dro.s— Snow Huts — The Ivayak or tho IJaidar — Hniitin;^
^j, Ai'i'aratiis and ^^'oa|'■lns — Enmity lietween the Es(iuiinaux and the Red Indian:!
,.,-, - The 'JJloody FalU'-Cliase ot'the Eeindo'-r — IJird Catehini,' - Whale Iluntin;;
—Various Strala^'eins em[d<iycd to eateh the Se.il — The Keep Kultuk — Jlear
Hunting -Walrus Hunting — Aw.dvlok and .Myouk — 'J"ho l']s(juimaux l)(ig —
(1 iiiiri a;id Spurts -Anuekoks— Moral Charaeler— Selt'-relianee— Inlelligenoi — ■
r,-liuk— ("ommereial i'^agerne^s of the I'lsiiuiinaux — Th< ir Voraeity — Seasons
of J)i.Ttress 317
CHAPTE]{ XXNll.
TiiK fii; ri;Ai>t: of thk ihi'shn's iiay tkimmioimk:^.
The ('in;rrur (lis IJois — Tho Voyngeur — The IJireh-hark Canoe — The Canadian
, I'ur Trade in tho hisl Cent ui'y— The Hud^on's Ray Company — Rloody Feuds
litwecntho Xorth-AVest t'ompany of Canada and the Hudson's Ray Contpany
- Tluir Amalgamation into a New Company in 1S21 iucunstruetinn i,f tho
jJiuiUon's Ray Company in 1863 - i'orts or Hou.-es The Attihawmog — Inlluenee^
sj^.of ilie Company on its SavaLic Dependents The Rlaok I'-.aror Rarilial — 'i ho
;il!i''i\vii Rial' The <iri.-'ly Rear - 'i'he Raennn — 'i'lie Ainen.an (lluUiin — 'I'lie
■^^j I'i lie .Marten The i'ekan or Woodshoek -The ChiiiLja 'I'lie Mink TlieCana-
(g<li;iii IVh-otler — I'ho CiMs.-.-d l'u\ — '1 he Rlaok or Sihery I'ux 'I'hr (.'aiiadian
. I.yux III Pisliu - T'he Joe H ire —The Reaver— The Musquash . . . lioH
CHAPTER XXVIII.
nit-: t'UKt: in.iians, (u; KvriiiNvruiK.
various Tril.'es uf the Crees- 'I'heir Con<|Ue.sts and Mil soiiueiit Defeat — Their
I'ars with ihe Rlaekt\et — Their Charaeter Tattooing — Their Dresh — Eondm ss
■r ill' ir Childr. n The (,'n e Cradle— Wipnur Jiaths - flames — Their religious
ill a.-— The Cn e Tiutarus and l-^lvsiu!ii ..,.,.. iiod
XIV
(OXTHMS.
rUAF'THR XXIX.
'I' ir i: T I x \ V, I X HI AXP.
Tlio V.'irious Trilios of llif Ti'iuk'' Imlinns — Tlie Dog Kibs— Cli.tliiii:.'- Tlic Hiir.
Indiiins - I>f'fir;i(lf(l Siafc of the Wi.inon — Prin^ticil Soriali^i^ Cliararlfv -
C'riU'lty to tile Aged ami Iiilinu ....... I'agL' ;}i;i
nn.| Ke
- Iloaf
•3lav-.s'
>- i;-a,i
CIIArTKR XXX.
Tin; T.orruKrx, oi; Knnnx ixkiax.^.
Tho Countries tlicy iiilia!iif~-Tlipir Appoiiranco ami l)r('sfi — Their f/ivi' of l-'iii'V^
— Condilinii of ilic Woincn Siratif^o Customs -C'liaractor — l''i u I- wiili li;
Esquimaux -Tliiir sus]iii'ious ami timorous liivrs — I'ouuds foi- ciiirliinp; !;■ ii;-
(leer — Tiu'ir Lodgis :;;'
CHAITKi; XXXT.
AIM'ITC V(iV\(li:S (iK MSi(tVKi;V FIJOM Till: rAI'.iiTS Ti • IIMTIX.
TIio I'irst Sc;miliiiavian Disrovrrcrs of America Tlie Cal.nis — \Vill'.n_.!il.y ,i':
Cliauecilor ( 1. ■).■>:; -!.')■') I)— '••tcjilieu IJurroupIi ( 1 "i.jd) Fml.islier ( I .")7ii l»7s
Davis ( l.')S')-l.")S7) — Hareiii.:. Coruelis, ami iSranI (1.V.11) -AVinieriiiL' of tli
l)utel\ Navi;:ators in Novaya /emlya (l.')!)()-l,V,)7) ~ .Ii'lui KniLrlit UloC.) — y\w-
(Icrod by tlio Ks,,uiniaux--lli ury Hudson (l()07-lGiia)— Haffin (IGIH) . ;;;;
CFTAPTKK XXXII.
ARCTIC vovA(;i:s or imsi (i\ ki;v, it;om r.Arnx im :\i'( i.ixtoik.
Uuchan ami Franklin — Ross and Parry (ISIS) — T)ispor(ry of ^Melville Island -
Wintor Harbour (ISIO- 1 S'id) - Frauklin's Fir^t Laml .bMirnoy— I)re,■i^•
Suf1erin^■s— Parry's Second Voyasio (1821-1 S'JI^V-Iliiiiiuk— Lyon (IS'_M'
Parry's Third Voyatje (18l2 IV I'raukliM's Serond Land .ruurncy to tlio '>\v-\- ■
of the Polar Sea — I'eeehey — Parrv's SIcdf,'e Journey towards tln' Pole «■
John Koss's Second ,Iourn(y — Five Years in the Arctic Oeean-lllaek's h-
oovery of llie (freat Fish River -Doase ,ind Simpson ( I837-IS30) I'rank!
and Croziir's last Voya;re i IS |.'))— Searchinp: Expeditions — Picliardsou r
TJae— Sir James Ross -Austin- IViniy- Do Haven— Franklin's I'ir^t "Wii;'
(Quarters discovered by Ommauey- Kennedy and Pellot -Jnplefield Sir '
Belcher— Kelletl—:>I-( 'lure's Di.-eovery of the North-West Passap-e Colliii-
-^Bollot's Death— I'r. Rae learns the Death of the Crews of the ' Krebu- '
'Terror' — Sir Leopold .M'Clintoek ,........-
Ifal •'. -olafe
«- >rVrril
Oiii.iv iails
pi :'.illee
Tiii'Mafcrs,
d'eiiiiiir
A4Siy>ti'ri(ius
Tans L^r,.,]
fi-" ionarie
^ •Ircnlai
'^The \,,r\
Esquimaux
(ITAPTKK XXXIIL
KAM' AXI> IIAVKS.
Kane sails up Smith's Sound in tlie 'Advant'e' (IS.„'l) — 'Winti^rs in Ren--rl
Pay — Sledci' J<mrney along the Coast of (Irienland — Tlie 'I'hree l!r"ii
Turret.s — Tennyson's .Monument — The Great Hnmbfddt (ijacier — Dr. Ihi}
crosses Kennerlv Channel — iNIort on"-- Di^eovi rv of AVashington Land — M^i::
CONTENTS.
XV
Tlw llii"
'harartcv ■
I'a-.' o''
,' (if I'iiirvv
N wlili i:;
I'lnv - Km lie"- vc<olvc'> \\\<in\ a Siooiid Wiiiliriii^' in lu'iissrlun- Day — Di'parturr
fliid llrtiirii n{ I'art >>t' llio Crew -Sutrcring'* of tlu> Winter — Tlic Sliipaliamlnni'd
:~ ll'iat Joiirnry to l'|ioi'niivik —Kane's Death in tlie Ilavannali (1H.)7) — Dr.
'•3I:i,vr>' \'i.ya;;i' in 18(10 He winters at I'urf I'"uulkt — Crosses Kennedy Chfinnel
- iea.les Cape Union, ilie must N'oi'tliern known l,and npon llio (ilobe — •
IviMewey (1 SOS)— Plans for future Voyrif^es to tli-' North I'ulo . Page CJ.I
CTIAPIKIJ XXXIV.
NKWKilNhl.AMi.
Hi i!r-'ilate Asprot — Forests- .Mar-Ins — liarriiis — Ponds — Fur-Fx^arinp Animals
•-Sr\rriiv of Climate — St. John's - Disi'overy of Newfoundland hy the Sean-
din. iviiins Sii- liumpliriv (iill.irt — Rivalry of the Kurdish and I'reiieh -Im-
Borianee of ilii- |''i-liiriis — 'I'lic Hanks of Newt'oundlaiul — .Moilc of I'isliiiif^ —
ilu'oalers. Headers, Splitters, Sailers, and Paeker.s — Fogs and Storms — Seal
•Jpatehiny 4:}9
MTIN.
lloiiLjllliy all
.")7(i-l'')"f^ -
ii'i-in;.' of '1'
iriKf.) — Mnr-
;i('i) . o"
NTOcK.
ille Islan!-
iey-Dvea.:i
•on (ISLM'
to the Sli'M"
lie Pulo-S
F.laek's H-
i',V) Fralll^■
lehardson :v
First AV i;
•field- Sir ■
|rr,^ .. CoUill-
Krelm-'^-
CHAITKU XXXV.
i.i;i:i;ni,am>.
Ainy-terions Txocioii — Aneiont Scandinavian Colonists — Their Deelino and l-'all -
Jfian- y.jvdi — Hi'- Trials and Success I'"oundation of Oodthaali — Herrenhutli
iJi^-iiiiiariis — I.indenow — Thr Seortshys — ClaverintT' — The Danish Si'ttlemcuts
in < iri'ciiland — The Clrteidand Ksquiniaux - Seal Catehinfj; — The White Dolphin
«»-Thc Narwhal Shark l-'ishi'i'v — I'i-kerniisset — Firils — Keinilecr JIunting -In-
.j^g, noiis Plants — Drift -Wood — .Mimral Kingdom — Modefjf Lifeof the Grcenhind
Esijuiinau.x — Th" Danes in Greenland — Feautiful Scenery — Ico Caves . 419
PART TL
THE ANTAJICTTC RE(JIONS.
CllAPTKK XXXVi.
.\NIAi;eTlC (le'KAN.
ill Fen--i'
[hrre P.i-t'
l_Dr. Ihr
|Land-M"
Comi" :;'iti\c View of the Antarctic and Arctic Kegioiis— Inferiority' of Cliniato
of ;': :!■ former — Its Causes — The New Shetland Islands- South (Jcijrgia — The
Pei' em stn am— Sea-Lird'-;— TIf <;iaut Petrel— Tho Albatross — The Pengtiin
—'I Aii-tial Whale — The liunehl.ack— Tho Fin-Ikek — Tho Grampus —
BbI-:- wit!) a Whale— The Sea-ihphanl— The Southern Sea-in'ar— The Sea-
leu; id— .\i)tarctic Fishes 4fi.-)
•^
\V1
roNTKNTS.
< IlAl'TKIi X.WVII.
AN i.\i;i TIC V(iv.\(ii;s fir hi>((ivi:i;\.
(/ook's I)i'i('fivf'rii '■ in th' Aiitiintii' Ore ,111 - licllin^hiinscii- WoMi 11 - liiscor
lliillniy Pmnniit ilTrvilli— Wilkis Sir .(miik - IJosn crds-rs ih,. Aiilar.t
f'iri'lc 01 New ^'car'.'" Hay, ISIl — niscuv. i> \'h>iMri,i I.iinil- I)i)imci'i'ii'< r,!inilii.
fin l''riiikliii i>laii(l— An IliMii'tinu of .Mmiiit Lriliii* - 'I'lic 'Iriat Icr liarrii •■—
I'rovidi'iitial I^scai'i — I)i'iaillul (ialr — (.'(illision — Ilazanlous I'as.-atio liclw..
Tmu IcrbtTi-'s — Tti'niiiiniion 111' tlio VdvaiTi' ..... Pair'' II
(IlAlTKli XX.WIll.
■rin: sTi;.\ri ni- .m.\i;i;i.i.a\.
Df.-friiition ofttio Strait — Wcstorn Kiitraiici — I'niiit Diinixfiicss— Tlif Xai-row-
Saint rhili|i's lifiy — Capo I'l'iiwanl — Oraii.l Sccini'v Tm-t I'aniinc Tin' Sr !j
]\ivfi- — I>ar\viii's AM-cii-^icni of Blount Tarn — 'I'lu^ llacliclur Hivrr I'liu' ■
Ivrai-ll — Sea Ixoacli — Snnl h Itcsulai i^n — llail'ijiir of Mcri'y ^^'ilii^^■a\vs ji
covcry of the Sirail l.y .Maijvllaii (OctoLor 'J(i, IVJI) — Prako — Sarniii 11' •
("avcndisli ~ Sclioutiii and Lr ^lain- — liyron -- lionpain^ilir - Wallis 1
Carti'i'ot — F\inir anil l'"iizi'oy ■ Sciilinii'nt at I'nnta Arenas-- 1 nrrca^ing l'a>~i.
tlirougli till' Si lait — A fntnrr lli;jli\vay of (.'oinnuii'i.' . . . . 1
ClIATTKR XXXIX.
rAiAiioNiA \Mi nii: i'atamimans.
l>iff('n'ncf' of ("linnitf bftwccn i",ast anil West I'atafronia- ivxtraordinary Ariil;
of East I'atagonia - /ool,ii:y— 'i'lio dnanai'o - Tho TiU'iit-.K-o- TIjc I'atair>>n:
Agouti — ^'nltu^(-s — Tin' 'l"nrk(y-r>uz/anl The ('ai-ranoIia-TlK' Cliinian::'-
Darwiii's 0«trirh 'I'lir I'aiaijonians — Exaggoratfil Ai'ronnls oi' their Statu"-
Their l'iiysio;_Mioniy and I>i'ess- -Religions Idra>— Sn|ierst it ioiis - As! ronoiii'
Knowledgi — l)ivi^il)n into 'i'rilics The Tent (ir Toldo Trading ]{uut'--
The (ireat Caeiqui — Jntrodnctii'ii of the Horse — Indnstry — Amusemeut>-
Charaetcr . . . . in
CIIAl'THR XI-.
T II F, K i: 1: i; 1 A \ >;.
Tlioir inisoraMo Condition— Degradation of ilody and Mind — Powers of Mini:'
— .Notions of liaiter- ("anse- of their lov Slate of Cnilivation -Their ]•''"■
Limpets — Cyltaria Darwini Constant Miurations — 'J"he Pnegian AVigWiiii'
Weapons — Their probable Origin -Their Nninber and various Tribes- (
slant I'ends — Cannibalism— Language — Adventures of I'uegia Jlasket, .Ji 'i
Button, and York Minster — ^Missionary Laboin'S — Captain Gardiner -i
liimentable Pnd ............
.jH'i-k Ox.
^-I.::- Ileal
.•i^ivii.' Jim
m
Ari'tIP K'efrii
•w
1(11 - liisOOc
lllr Alllai'rt
rrniis riiilulii .
Iff I'arrii '-
Si-ago liclw.,
. Pairr i:
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIOXS,
'Ip' \arVM\v-
• Til,. S, L'
lliwaws -I)
— Sariiiit'iit'i -
-AVallis a:
■using I'iis,-;..
. 4
<'HKO.MOXYL()GKAPirs.
^ivii. li,,. I \T " I ^^ i tii'tafff in till
" ^*" I ■'>ay Icn-itoriis
■'^■iMd aiul Arctic Fux
niicI.son'.s
21 S
ai7
338
4
I
^ri'fic Ri'giojis,
M A P S,
^^.A/c.;,.,^..l,i. j Antarctic I{egion«
''" face 2'age 624
iinarv Ai'ii!: jt
be I'atai:.''ii:, 'H
Cliiniaii- -
lifii' 8talu;'i -
-Astiviui'iiii <^^n.\p
iiifr Itoiilt— -"I
Unusenn'iit." -S
WOODCUTS.
I- Arctic' Forost anfl A
PACK
iirora ;j
CHAP.
. ''''"■ '"ireut Snowy Owl in
'1, luin.lcer Travelling in
La] 'land , . ,-
PAliK
Tho Elk
[III. Vessel lifted
VI. II.rd,.-Breid. from Krabla "%
VII /';'^""S-'''i'«'Duck . 84
^11. I ho Lava.fi..I,i of S„rt-
Ilellir . . .
^V
out of tl
rs of ^lim: '
Their F....:-
n AVigwiii;:-
Tiil.es-t\:
a^kft, Jemr:
iniiucr— -HI
!•
[■IV. Wl
it-r l.y To
inlvick Whal.
I'llers am
The C
ong TccImt^
framj)us
V. Oru>fa Jokull, from J{
veil
ir
cyni-
'•'•'''^ •I''kull, from Pla-
fcaii above K
vellir .
iiajipa-
Ent
nince to the .Second
Portion of Snrts-Hellir
The Elder Dtick
28
.39
40
40
.10
irZ
.•>s
The Klafr
The G
r-'at Auk
VIII. IIver-Fjall
The Wi'ld ri
IX. V
fOOSO
Islands
II —Eofot
on
The O
sprey
X, .Alagdalcna T5av —
L
.lergen
^pitz-
Tho Pti
li'nngan
ore
^I. Abandoned V
Aretie Sli
The Arctic F
^11. I,apps M(
The Glutton
es8el
on an
ox
ng
loo
102
10.3
108
109
121
122
139
140
1.1.3
I.U
170
will
LIST OF ILLU.STUATIONS.
1 IIAI".
I'AISU
xiir.
Til.' ToriKM HIv.T .
171
Tlw Soti^lik
INO
XIV.
Saniojidc's Mild lluir
DwcllillLT''
I.S7
Tlic Siinw Uniiliii;: .
1 !):»
XV.
(il'Oll]! of ( (sfjllivH
1 00
TllrSMMc ' .
•J02
XVI.
Tol.olsk .
2(ia
Till' .Ai'ij-ali Sli(M'|)
217
XVII.
Siliciiiiii Mxilus (11
roiitu .
L'18
Till' Srii Otter .
•.':i!)
XVIII.
Gr(Jiii> of Iviissiaii
SlciljjrS
211)
Th.' Ivory nil
'2r>i
XiX.
.Iiikiits .
2.V2
TIk^ Wliistliiitr Swan
2r)S
XX.
'I'lissian I'ofj; SlidLrii ,
2.V,)
rill' r>lafk (iiiillciiiot
271
XXJ.
()<'liotsk .
The Soofcr, or Black
27.-.
l)iv«r .
2S0
XXll.
Tlio Aleutian I-lands
281
Tlir Silvery I''ox
28',»
XXIII.
r'('lro['anlo\vsk
2!i(>
Till! l']si|uiiiiaiix I)op;
2ii7
XXIV.
Tcliutilii ami tluir
Tcnt.s .
298
The I'olar Hare
300
XXV.
Nativrs of I'liala-
selika .
nor.
The Sen Hear .
;n«
XXVI. Esijuiniaux watehing
a Seal llolo . . ;il7
The Narwhal . . 337
XXVII. lIiuL^on's Bay Post . 3;i8
The Hiaek Hear . Soo j
XXVIII. free Wigwams in I
Suninii'r . . .'Jjfi
(WW. I'Acl.
XXJX. Till Hoi'ky^Ionntaiiih
on till' .Mai'ki'n/ie
Hivir . . .101
The Iaiix , . :u\'.i
XXX. ICiitiliiii .N'ativiH , ;(7ii
Till' riiii' Martrn . .'i7ti
XXXI. Ilill ;it Kai'iiis on
r.rar Lake Kivcr . ;i77
Till' .MuMjiiasli , ;i!)ii
XXXIJ. Tlir Torso l.'iM'k . It'.H
Till' Oreat Noi'lhern
Divir . . IL'.'
XXXJIi. Tlii'tinat Iliiiiil'ul.lt
(ilaeicr . . '12;
Till' Haeorili . . Ilis
XXXIV. Jeeher^r-on tlir lialiks
of Nowfoundlanil . -I'.V.i
Till' Uid-hreasteil
^Irrftaiiser . 1 h
XXXV. Portraits of (ireeii-
laml Natives . 11'
Till' Colony of Suk-
krl'toyijiell , /(iJ'di'C I.V
Till' Snow ri(ii»i' . -ici
XXXVI. Caiio Ci'o/.iir ami
."\loiuit Ti'rror . -li;'
Christmas llailiour,
Ki r;riH'li'n's Lanil . 17 i
Till' SiM'i-m Whale . i;-
XXXVII. Mount .Mint!) . . i:.'
The Sea Klephant . IS!'
;n« . XXXVIII. Tln' strait of Magel-
Tho Miuk
803
Ian . . . ID'
The Wandering Alha-
trosH . . . oil;; J
XXXIX. Group of Patagonian.s Tin
The (jiianaeo . . OK i
XL. Stati'ii Island — Capo
Horn . , . .'i
1
lit
Tho r
e again
rvi I
ki'ii/ic
s , ;!7ii
•ri . ;i7(i
s on
iviT . ."77
. .'11*11
I hern
HI
.bukit
. 42)
, -l.'is
•.auks
and . -l'.]'.!
ustcl
. ll>
rocn-
. 11:1
Snk-
titj'acc I. Hi
c . -ICl
ami
. •Hi.;
lioiir,
-and . \'\
ill) . i;-
. 1:
nt . 1 >
[agcl-
. l;i
/Vlba-
^
'^''^ f"l^<>^''''n;i rilu.^frailnnH arc tnl„. j „
Tl...KroiM,,s.n,-,Vn.oran.onffIc.ol.orgs.
»'ij).. I ro.nr an.l M„„,„ Terror
^•''■•is.n.as irarl.,a,r. K.r.nK.ion'.s Land,
•Mount Min(o.
nmn^
-Capo
•''• fM
""%
i ll
■■^,
I'VIJ'I' I
4
TIM'; AIJCTrc UKCrONS.
RMPHl
IHiiil
'Buff^'i
Tlie r.:invii ("i
nil r-'-'riii'ii
b.y ''ii' Si)i,\
V(:j-.iati,,n-
N..i'ili,rii I
8eV. !'!lV i,t'
Wi..!<_].:xi
Cli.M.IIr Ji;i\
Ih-. (i-w.iM I
Ni^!!!-. Til
A<iLAX
iiiiiiiy
Eur<'|H', Asi
Oceiiii (u- ii
streiiiiis. s(i
Yenisei
<'!irtli,
(•iiA!"r!:if !.
THK AltlTM" LAND.-
Tlie I'm;';' 11 (lroiih<U (M' 'riiii'lri- - Almiiilaih'c nt' Aniiiial J,ilr on tlir Tiiii-li'i in Sum -
nifi'- - Till ii' Sill lu'c mill |)csiilatiiiii in Winter- J'riiti'Olinn m Hi mini lu \"iMr('i;iiii>n
bj llir Snnw -I'Tnwcr-i^rowtli in tlio luV^lu'st L.-iiilmlrs — Clini.ntrr nf Tunilra
Vfi-'i'tatiiin-- Soul 111 rn liuundary-lnir nf the Uarri-n (Ji'Dunils — 'I'lirir Jv\ti'Ut —
Till' i''iirr>i /one — Aim ii- 'I'l'i'i-s - Sinwucss of tln'ir < ii'nwtli — Mmiutiuiy nl il:i>
Ni'i'tihi'ii l-'di'rsi-; — .Mu^ijuitoi's — - Tlw Viiriii\is ('ausi's wliit'li di Irrniinr ilie
So\ ■ !'!i\' I't' an AiTiii' Cliuialr- Insular ami Continental I'usillun — C'lirrnii —
Wi'!'!- — l-".xlntiir> i,t' Colli i.li-rrvnl Kv Sir M 1!. Iclirr and l'". iCaiir -IIuw is
Ma
Ir to Mi)ii"irt tlio JJii^uui-^ ot' an Ar.lir AVinlcr ? - I'l t'-- nf a niili
CliM.iii' iia\ Mill oui'i' riiiriii'd in ilir Ar.'tii' Ki'Liions — Its ('ansr ai-rordiiiu' to
Dr. < i-u ill! llr.T — I'riailiar IJiautii'siiftlu' Arctii' KiL;iiin>--SiiiiMt — Loiilt l-iinai'
Ni^'!'- Thr AaroiM.
A<n,AX('l'' 111 :i inait <ii" the AnMic regions sli,i\vs us llnit
iiiiiiiy (>(' tlic rivers l)i'loiii4'iii<4- t,, tlictlirt'c cMiitiiiciiis —
EuTi'iK', Asiii, Aiiii-ric!! — disclinrLic tlit-ir wiitcrs into Uic Polar
OcCiMi dv its tributary bays. Tht' tt'rrit(»ri('s (h'aiut'd by tbrso
stremiis. sniuc dC wliirb (such as the Mac]\<'u/.it', tlic Lcua,
the N I'uisci, and the Olii) rauk aniouo- the iiiant rivci-s nf
the lavtli. IniMii. aloiiL;' with the inlands witliiii or near the
II -A
TIIK I'OLAII \V()IilJ>.
Arctic circle, the Viist vc^inn dvcr wliicli tlio frMst-kiii^* rci^^iis
suprcinc.
Miin styles liiinsi'lf the lord ^A' the earth, iiiid may witli
some justice lay claim to the title in more ;j,v]iial lauds where,
armed with tlu; plouj^h, he eompels the soil to yi(>ld him ;i
variety of truits ; hut in those desolate tracts which aiv
wiiiter-honud durin*.;- the greater part of the year, he i>
}:ifeuerally a mere wanderer over its surface — a hunter, ;i
fisherman, or a herdsman — ami hut few small settlements,
separated from each other by immense deserts, i^'ivc proof di
his havin;^' made some weak attempts to establish a footing',
ft is difficult to determine Avith precision the limits of tli-
Arctic lands, since many countries situated as low as latitud
()()° or even 50°, such as South (Ireenland, Laljrador, Kaiii-
tschatlca, or the country about Lake Ijaikal, have in thci;
clinvati' and productions a decidedly Arctic character, wlii!
others of a far more n(»rth(»rn position, such as the coas'
of Noi'way, enj(»y even in winter a remarkably mild tem-
perature, lint they are naturally divided into two [>rinci]i;!
and well-marked zones — that of the forests, and that of tli
tre«'less wastes.
The latter, comprisin;^' the islands Avithin the Arctic circlr.
form a belt, nu)re or less broad bounded by tlu' continent;:
shores of the N(»rth Polar seas, and ^'radualiy merj^'ino- toward-
the south into the forest-re^'ion, which encircles them with
tj^arland of ever«^'reen conifera\
This treeless /on.- bears the name of the ' l:»arren o-vomids.
or the 'barrens' in North America, and of ' tundri ' ii
Siberia, and European Russia. Its Avant of trees is causii
not so much by its hiy'h northern latitude as by the colli
sea-Avinds Avhich SAveep luichecked over the islands or tin
flat coast-lands of the Polar Ocean, and for miles and niik'!
compel even the hardiest plant to crouch before the blast ;nii:«|j
crei']) alon^" the j^'round.
Nothin;^- can be more melancholy than the aspi^ct of tin
boundless morasses or arid Avastes of the tundri. Diiii:.'!
inosses and i^'rey lichens form the chief ve^'etation, and
fcAV scanty li'rasses ordwartish (lowers that may have fouint
n'tu-^'c in some more sheltered spot are unable to relieve tl
dull monotony of the scene.
Ill will
Mnilli or
mIc/icc. 11
vc|])iiio',,f
A\ il'MI tile
and till' ;
Idrds ;i{)|)c
_-\u adiiiii';
taiil (diiiie
(>v lakes. (I
iilimu' tlic
('"'m!. aii(l
S'riii'ity l.»l
J''li);iiii oil
i'iir'licr nor:
Kai'Ics ii
^ir.iiid hird."
I'll-h.'S; ;in(_
I'liiiiiiiM- \vai
Uliile th
1 'ijfatory bi
n'id sturii'coi
ill it forces tl
1 •;• I lie |.uq
i^'>\ ct Avaters
111' ri'iiidccr
iriiciis (d' th
'}' llie co(ded
'1 till' stino'iii
Thus duriuj
I'ltcd scene, ]
J"-'iiii\ the tis
':-:■< 'd to pay
[''■■- li'iiinvr, to
''"' iis Soon
M'lil'"ii<di (d" A
fasten to leitvt
fiiil. The yees
Ji' sduth; tht
''''■i'>*"il Avhie]
VAKVlXli ASI'IXTS OF TIIK TLNDliA.
In V
In wiiilt'i", Avlit'ii uiiiniiil lite luis in(»,stly retivjited to tlio
MHiili m- SMUii'lit ii rt'f'uyc ill buiTi»ws <ir in ciivcs, au invt'ul
>iltii(i'. iiitt'iTUjited only by the liootiny of a siiow-owl ov the
\i'ljiiiiL;n|'a fox, reii^'us over their vast ex[)aiis(' ; but in s[>rinm-,
wlhii till' I»i'mwii earth reappears from under the melted snow
and till' swamps bej^'in to thaw, enormous llig'hts of wild
liii'ds appeal- u[M)n the scene and enliven it for a few months.
,\ii ailiiiirable instinct leads theii* winu'ed le<>"ioiis from dis-
t;iiit cliines t(» the Arctic Avildernesses, where in the morasses
(.!• hiki's. on the banlcs of the rivers, on the flat strands, or
iiloiiLi' the hsh-teeminn* coasts, they find ar. abundance of
liind. and where at the same tinu' they can with yi-reatcr
sicnritv liuild tlieir nests and rear thi'ir vounti*. Some
]'iii;ii!i on the skirts -if the forest-i'e^"ion ; otliers, fiyin;^*
UurtliiT northwards, lay their e^'n's iijion the naked tundra.
Ilau'les and hawks follow the traces of the natatorial and
s'.iaiid birds; troops of ptarmi;^Mns roam amony- the stunted
dunlies; and when the sun shines, the tinch or the snow-
dniiitin',;' wai'bles his merry note.
While thus the warmth of summer attracts hosts of
lii^ratory birds to the Arctic wildernesses, shoals of salmon
jii!id sturg;eons entei- the rivei's in o1)edience to the instinct
illiiit forces them to (juit the seas and to swim stream upwards,
■j '1' the purpose of depositin;^' their s[iawn in the tranquil
i!-\v vi waters of the stream or lake. Ab(mt this time also
fill.' ri'indeer leaves the forests to feed on the herl)s and
Hi'lii'iis of the tvnidra, and to seek alon;^- the shoi-cs fanned
IV the cooled sea-breeze some [»rotection ai^'ainst the attatdvs
u'tlie stin<>'in<j;' flies that rise in myriatls from the swamps.
Tims durin^' several months the tundra presents an ani-
ii.ited scene, in Avhich man also plays his part. The birds t>\'
Inair, the Hshes of the water, the beasts of the earth, are all
il'liLi'i'd to pay their tribute to his various wants, to appease
lii>liun"i'r, to (dothehis Itodv, or to '••ratify his <;ri'ed of Li'iiin.
but as Soon as the first frosts of Heptendjer announce the
|ili[ir(iach of winter, all animals, with but few exceptions,
bstcn to leave a re^iiiu where the sources (»f lifV' must soon
lii. The yeese, ducks, and swans return in dense flocks to
!■ snuth; the strand-birds seek in some lower latitude a
In rsi.il which J'.llows their sharp beak to seize a bnrrowinj.';
'■'%
6 THE I'OLAR Woin.It.
proy ; ilio wtitcr-fowl forsiiki^ tlic biiys iUHrclianiicls (liiii, nviII
soon bo bl<-)C'laMl iipAvitli ice; tlic rcimliH'v (tiicc iiiorr rt'turnli
tlic forest, and in a sIkh-I iiiiic n()lliiii<^- is U't't that can indiin
man to jn-olon^- liis stay in the tirrk'ss plain. Soon a. tliiil
mantle of snow covits the hanlcncd oartli, tlu' frozen lalcc
tlui ieo-l)oun<l river, and conceals tlieni all — seven, ei^'lit, niiii
months lon<4' — nnder its monotonous i>all, except Avliere ih
Curious north-east wind sweeps it away and lays hare tli'
naked rock.
This snow, which after it has once fallen persists initi!
tlie long- summer's day has effectually thawed it, protects ii
an admirable manner the vci^'etation of the hig'her latituiL-
against the cold c>f the long; winter season. For snow i>
so bad a conductor of lunit, that in mid-winter in the hi^i'li
latitude of 7S° oO' (llensselaer Bay), while the snrfatv
temperature was as low as — :}0°, Kane found at two fv
deei) a temperatnro of — 8°, at four feet + -^, and at eiglr
feet + 2G', or no more than six det^rees below the freeziii;.'-
point of water. Thus covered by a Avarm crystal snow-mantle
the northern ]»lants pass the long- winter in a comparativil}
mild temperatvire, high enough to niaintain their life, Avhiit.
without, icy blasts — capalde of converting' mercury into ;;
solid body — howl over the naked wilderness; and as the firs'
snow-falls are more celhdar and less condensed than tli
nearly im[>al[)al>le jtowder of winter, Kane justly ol)servr-
that no "• eider(h)WJi in the cradle of an infant is tucked i:
more kindly than the sleej>ing'-dress of winter about tli
fi'el)le plant-life of the Arctic zone." Thanks to this pn-
tecti(»n,aml to the inlluence of a sun which for months circl<-
above the horizon, and in favonralde l(»calitie8 calls tovti
the pmvers of veg-etation in an incredibly short time, ew-
Washington, (irinnell Land, and Spitzl)crg'en are able 1
boast of (lowers. M(n't(ni plucked a crncifer at CapeCoJisf:-
tution (SO" 4.V N. lat.l, and, on the lianks of Marv Mintui
Itiver (78° r)'J'), Kane came across a flower- growth whirl:
thoug-h drearily vXrctic in its type, was rich in variety in;.
colouring'. Amid festuca and other tufted grasses twinklr,
thi» purple lychnis and the white star of the chickwt\'il
and, not without its ]ileasing- associations, he recognised
solitary hesperis — the Arctic representative of the wallflower
of liomt*.
^5
Vc^'ctal
the >a.>
faiiiilic
gi'ouinl:
more ui
iiidividi
riitely (
[I 'in'ii li'ii
In more
tli(i exc
Avliicli
iiiuii<lat(
i'recjuent
ft nur
f:«']iiiratej
1111(1 irreg
Ji wider
ii]i<iu the
iiti-nratio]
Ji'lvaiice f
i Thusti
in Laln'ad
ButHi'ientl
liiiiimltMlc
from the
\\\i'\ begii
mouth c>f
51 > (i^\ or
;^it'tliat ri\
niilil thev
py Asiatic
!iii::iin, mo
:fii' lis the
iillN'U llill
t'vcii reac
ivtrcat fui
-■< lasts of
liiid itself
fh'iice A
LVinorica o
TIIH iJARKK.VS.
its until
cttects ii
latitii.lc^
snow h
lie lii'^'li
surl'iK'
two li'i-
at ci;4'li'
tVeeziu'^-
^-iiuintk'.
liirativcl}
e, wlult'.
into ;;
the i\v>
Kill 111-
>l)servr-
nclcc'd i;
)(»iit til-
his pi'"-
IS ciivl''
lis fori!
no, vw'.
able \'
> Const:-
Mintur
I Avliir!'..
>ty :ii''
hvinldt
KWCt-''
L'nisrd
riinow.
yo\t to tlio liT-lions and niossos, wliieli furni tlic chief
Vf^-t'iiitioii of the tiveloss zono, tlio criu-ifenL', the {^-rasses,
ihe saxifi'Mu'as, the caryo[»hylla\ and the conijiosita^ are tlie
fiiinilies of i>lants most larj^vly represented in the barren
^nnnids or tundri. Though veLu'etatioii becomes more and
more imiforni on advaneing" to tlie nortli, yet the number of
iiidividual plants does not decrease. When the soil is niode-
Tiitely dry, the surface is covered by a dense carpet of lichens
{r,,//^/V/'/(o<"'), mixed in damper spc»ts with Icelandic moss.
Ill niorc tenacious soils, other plants flourish, not liowevi'r to
tlie exclusion of lichens, except in tracts of meadow around,
wliicli occur in sheltered situations, or in the alhivial
iiiniidated ilats where tall reed grasses or dwarf wullows
iVcipiently grow as closely as they can stand.
It miiy easily bo supposed that the boundary line which
£!•■] Ill rates the tundri from the forest zone is both indistinct
{111(1 irregular. In some parts where the cold sea-winds have
11 wider range, the barren grounds encroacli considerahly
11)1(111 the limits of the forests; in others where the con-
liu'iration of the land prevents tlieir action, the wi>ods
ji'lvaiice farther to the north.
Thus the barren grounds attain their most soutlierly limit
in Laln-ador, where tliey descend to latitude .')7°, and tliis is
ButUriently explained by the position of that blealc peninsula,
h iiiii(l(.'d on three sides by icy seas, and washed by cold currents
fidiu the ncn'tli. On the opposite coasts of iiudsoiTs IJay
they begin about 00% and thence gradually rise towards the
iiKnitli of the Mackenzie, where the forests advance as higli
{IS (is\ or even still farther to tlie north along the l(»w banks
iot'tliat river. From tlie Mackenzie the barrens again descend
|tiiitil they reach Bering's Sea in G5° N. L. On tlie op])(»sit(i
;^tr Asiatic shore, in the land of the Tchuktclii, they Ix'giii
|{i::aiii, more to the south, in C)-\°, thence continually rise as
,:M\v as the Lena, where Anjou Il)uiid trees in 71° N. L., and
iftlicu tall aii'ain tow^ards the Obi, where the forests do not
|('\tii rcat-h the Arctic circle. From the Obi the tundri
Jrtioat further and further to the north, until finally, on the
?i>asts of Norway, in latitude 7o°, they terminate with the
and itself.
Hence -\v(> see that the treeless zone of Europe, Asia, and
L\iii( liea (X'cupies a space larger than the whole of ihirope.
TIIK I'OLAll WOUI.l).
Even the Africun Saluiru, or the Piiiii[»iis of South Ameri(;i.
sir<! inferior in extent to the 8il>eriiiii Tuiidri. But 1li.
pesses.siou of a few hunth'ed s(|U!ire miles of fruitful territon
on tiu.' south-ANestern I'rontiers of his vast empire would be di
^•reater value to the Czar than that of tlK)se boundless wastes,
whieh are tenanted oidy by a few wretched pastoral tribes.
or some equally wretched lishermen.
The Arctic forest-rey^ions are of a si ill "greater extent thim
the vast ireeless plains whieh they encircle, ^\'hen we (-(in-
sider that they form an almost continuous belt, stretchiiii:
throui^h three parts of the world, in a breadth of from lo° 1.
20°, even the woods of the Amazon, which cover a surfiKr
lifteen times greater than that of the ITniied King(hiiii,
shrink into comparative insi^'uificance. L'nlike the tro2»i<-ii!
forests which are characteris('d by an immense variety (i
ti'ees, these northern woods are almost entirely composed di
conifera.', and one sin^-le kind of fir or pine often cover-
an immense extent of it'round. The European and Asiatii
s])ecies ditfer, however, from tlu»se which ^row in America.
Thus in the Russian i-mpire and Scandinavia we iind tin
Scotch tir {Piiuis aiilcislris), the Siberian lii" and larch (.l/.n>
sihIn'cK, Ijorly xihirii'((), the Picea obovata, and the Pinib
cend)ra ; while in the Hudson's Bay territories the avooiK
principally consist of the Avhite and black spruce (.l/'A-
<ilhii vt i).i<im), the C^madian larch [Ldri.f cuiKuJcnxix, and tin
^•rey pine [Pluiis hmili-siaiui). In both continents birch ti'c(-
grow further to the north than the conifene, and the dwai'!
willows form dense thickets on the shores of every river am.
liike. Various species of the service tree, the ash and tli>
elder are also nujt with in the Arctic forests; and both nndi
'^■(f shelter of the woods and l>eyond tlu'ir limits, nature, as ii
(..> (MMipensate for the want of fruit trees, produces in favoui-
f : ' i('calities an abundance oi' bilberries, bo<j;berries, crin-
u(Tri'>, &c. {Eitifhinon, Vacciiii'iirii), whose fruit is a ^tciii
boon Lo man and beast. When coUj^'ealed ])y the autumiiai
frosts, the berries frecpUMitly remain han;^in^' on the busllo^
until the snov.' melts in the followin;L4' June, and are then ii
consi(h'rable r(>source to the Hocks of water-lbwl mit;ratiiiL'
to their northern breeding-places, or iu the bear awakeniii
from his winter sleep.
A IMI
lai iiii.l<
travi'ln
ycai's. .
iiiiTcasi
tli'CI'rjili
clii!lh' (
t> till' s
llllt lint
fllr I'm re
■with ill
Jiiiilliilih
Baiiiiiicr,
lint l;ist
j^mwlli (
till' IH il't
iii-taiici>.
rint tllir!
tuinliM. f
lli-llt,-(|
ill!" i'l'ai
Cju.'iitly a
until liiui
qiiislicd 1
of licln-n.s
Vi'iiMirc fi
.\ tliii'ii
B-i-lli iVol
tlh'ir li;in
till 'M' 1|( l\
aiil I'vcii
•Vcliujiii Ills
lllHsS ill tl
\>'A\\ the
khii'.^ty tlii
The (111
ll'i't \r [\<r
|nti<iii. I
|1 illSc'cts
h-a/.iiiiiii
'"t
AUITIC FOKKST.S.
iHcrica.
iiil th.
rrviton
lid Ix" *<\
i wastes.
,1 tribes.
31lt tliuti
\V(' Cdll-
ivtclliiii;
I '■° 4
111 1') tn
'iiig'(l(iiii.
tropk'iil
iiriety <'t
iposf'd (it
II eovii-
lI Asiiitii;
niLTicii.
lind 111'
L-ii (J /.•;..<
riiiu>
le "Wcioil-
> (J/'/V-
iiiul iln
I'cli trei-
ic dwai't
ivev iiiii;
and til'
h ninlci
ire, as i;
favour-
's, eiMii-
a ^TCiit
itiniiiKi!
leii
tl
iL^raliiii:
likeiiiiii.
AiMitlii'i- (listiiiclivf cliaraftev (if tlic forests of \\\v lii^^'li
latiiii.l.'s is llicir aiipareiit youth, so that <;-('ii('rally tlic
iiavrll.T wiMild hardly su[.]»ose thciii to '•(• inoiv than fifty
ycais. or at most a cciituvy old. 'Jlieir juvcuili' appcaraiiei'
iii.'ivascs oil advaiiciii;^' northwards, until suthlcidy tlu'ir
til civjiiil au't' i^ rt'vcalcd tiy the thiclc Inisli'.'.s of Ii(dK>ns which
cli'tlif or hau;^' dttwu from tlieir slirivcUed l)on«j;'lis. Fnrtlier
arc found seattercd licrc and tlicrc.
-out ll.
ll'o-C tl'.'OS
l»iii not SO numerous as to nu»dify tlu' j^'eneral appearance o
.f
til
villi
Ii irr
<t,aud even tliese are mere dwarfs wlien compared
the i^iL^antic iirs of more teiiiiierati' climate
Tl
lis
Inlid
iiieiion is .suili(. ieiitlv explained l»v the shortness of the
Biiiiiincr. which, thoii^'li altle to briiiL;' forth new shoots, does
ast loiii;' eiiouiih for the formation of wood. Hence the
rnwtli of trees Ijecoiiies slower and slower on advanciiij^- to
11' north ; so that on the hanks of the (ireat iiear Lake, for
u
It
11-
i<iaiice. I'Xi years are necessary for the forniution <»(' a trunk
hickei' than a man's waist. Towards the condnes of the
the woods are reduci-d to stunted stems, covered with
1 huds that have heeii unaVtle to develop themselves
[uiHli'a
nir(
inti> I. ranches, and Avhich prove by their nunil)ers how fre-
(jii.'iiliy and how vainly they have striven apiiust the wind,
Until (iiially the last remnants of arboreal vei>'etation, van-
qi!i>ii((l liy the blasts of winter, seek refui^'e under a carpet.
ot liili.ns and mosses, from Avhich their annual shoots hardly
Veil' ure to ])e;'p forth.
: A third jK'culiarity which distinti-uishes the forests of the
B"
tl
th
I roll!
len- naniuess c
those of the trojiical world is what may 1
1(
e called
lint
•haracter. There the traveller finds none of
noxious plants whose Juices contain a deailly ]»oisoii,
•veil thorns and prickles are of rare occurrence. No
teiieiuous snake ;.^lides throii^'h the thicket; no crocodile
.Jinks in the swam[»; and the northern lieasts of pre\ — the
i:ii'. 'he Ivnx, the wolf—are far less danwrous and blood-
iir>iy ihaii tlu' larL>'e feli(Uo of the torrid zone.
1)Us1k'^ r ''''■ '"'"I'i'i'i'^ively small number of animals liviiii;' in the
irrtie ferests corresponds with the monotony of their ves4V-
i\\ loll.
llls^.
ct^
Here we should seek in vain for that immense variety
troops of oaudy Ijirds Avhich in the
or
tl
lose
>r;i/.iliai
I woods excite the admii'at ion, and not unfrequently
10
TIFK rOLAR WOULD.
cnuso tlic <l('Sj>iiii' of tin' AVimdcrcr ; Ikto wo sIkhiM in Viiin
cxjx'et 1<) liciir tlu' I'lii morons voicos tliiit ivsouiid in lln
tropical tliiclvets. No noisy monkeys or fjniiiTt'lsonu' piirrot>
settle on tlu.' branches of the trees; no shrill cicadie or
melancholy <^-oat-sucL'ers interrupt the solemn stillness of tin
ni^'lit; the howl of the lnin<4'ry woll', or the hoarse screech oi
some solitary binl of prey, iire almost the <^>nly sounds that
ever disturb the repose of these a^vful solitudes.
When the tropical hurricane sweejis over the vir^-in forests.
it awakens a thousand voices of alarm ; but the Arctic stoiMii.
however furiously it may blow, scarcely calls forth an ecli"
from the dismal shades of the pinewoods of tlu; north.
Ill one respect oidy the forests and SNViimi)s of the norilurii
re^•ions vie in abundance of animal life with those of llir
('(juatorial zone, for the le^'ions of ^'uats which the shml
polar summer calls Ibrth from the arctic morasses are a iic
less intolerable pla^'ue than the mosquitoes of the tropical
marshes.
Thouo-h aji'riculture encroaches but little upon the Arctic
woods, yet the agency of man is gradually working a chanL;i'
in their aspect. Large tracts of forest are continually wastc'l
by extensive 11 res, kindled accidentally or intentionally,
which spread with ra[>idity over a wide extent of count vv.
and continue to burn until they are extinguished by a heavv
rain. Sooner or later a new growth of tind^er springs u]'.
but the soil being generally enriched and saturated witii
alkali, now no longer brings forth its al)original llrs, but givf^
birth to a thicket of beeches {Jichda alba) in Asia, or vi
aspens in America.
The line of perpetual snow may naturally be expected t '
descend lower and lower on advancing to thepcde, and heini
many mountainous regions or elevated plateaux, such as tli<
interior of Spitzbergen, of Greoidand, of Novaya Zemlya, Ac.
which in a more temp(^rate clime Avould be verdant Avitli
woods or meadows, are here covered with vast fields of ico,
from which frequently glaciers descend down to the verge c!
the sea. But even in the highest northern latitudes, no laii'i
has yet been found covered as far as the water's edu'e witli
eternal snow, or where winter has entirely subdued the po\voi>
of vegetation. The reindeer of Spit/bergen lind near 8('
,1
I
X. f-. li
fill' S 1 1 1 i
Island,
fnr tll.M
liir as
liistcrcd
lh';i( |V(
• •I'lisjiln
iIm-cc b
lirlic\C 1
lill-. it
"I" wiiiti
ll'lll|M'IM'
lir~i.lcs
Ilif lirrto
"^\lM'ii I'm
^'■\i rity
till' warn
liiK'iilal
||"li' liav
MMlllllcl'"-
iicaivr to
WfsItTIl
"I ■•^ca, li;
Illi'illl sill
<'!' uatt'i-
Mlii'iia ;
'I'llr iiil
]'"i'taiic('
Aivtic c'li
l^atliiTs it
,iiii'l lill til
villi ice. ;
flMll ,,f (,,,
t;ii' ^(_uitli(
<•!' til.' :\ii,
J,-", liilivd
l'.''ii ill li
>'ii'l is ai)
AKcTic vi:(;kt.\ti<>x.
11
.0 Avc'ii'-
ioiuilly.
, Ik'HV}
it !4'ivi-
1, or ^''
^oted t'
(1 lionii.
as tliv
ya, ^i'..
lit Avhl:
of in'.
no hiii'l
lo-e -witl;
X. |j. lidii'Ms nr n-rasscs 1o t't't'tl u|»oii ; in ravoiiriil>lt' scmmviis
i1h' sikiw melts l»y i]i<' «Mitl of June on the plains of MclvilK'
Ishiml, iiihI iiuiiii'rous Icnnaiii^'S rffjuiriiiiLif vc^Tlablo food
[\iv llhir siiltsislciict' iiiliabit the desorts of New Siboria. i\s
l';ii' iis jiiiiii iniN ivaclic(l to the iiorili, vci^vtalion, wlu'u
InsttTt'd I)y a sludtcrcd sihiatioii and the refraction of solar
lii';it from the ro(d<s, lias everywhere been fonnd to rise to a
( uiisiiltTidtle altitude above th(.' level of the sea; and should
ilni-c be land at the north polo, there is every reason to
lMli.'\(' that it is destitute neither of animal nor ve<^etid)le
lili'. il \V(MiM be e(]ually err(»neoiis to suppose that the cold
of winter i;:variably iuereases as we near the pole, as the
iriniMiMture of a land is inllueneed by many other causes
lii-i<lfs its latitude. Even in the most northern regions
liitlii'vto visited by man, the inlluenee of the sea, particularly
"wlh'ii raM)ured by warm currents, is found to niiti^-ate the
s'Vii'ity of the winter, while at the same time it diminishes
111.' wiinnth of summer. On the other hand, the lar;j^e con-
liiientid tracts of Asia or America that shelve towards the
poll' have a nK»re intense winter c(dd and a far ^'reater
Miiniiier's heat tlian many coast lands or islands situated far
nearer to the pole. Thus, to cite but a few examples, the
Western shores of Novaya Zendya, frontinj^^ a wide expanse
ol sea. have an averay'e winter temi)erature of only — 1-°, and a
iiie;iu summer tenip^erature but little above the freeziuo--poiiit
«'!' water ( + oO^''), while Jakutsk, situated in tlu' heai-t of
Ml'eria and 20^ nearer to tht> ecpiator, has a winter of
-:'><■' ••'. and a summer of +ti(>" (>'.
The inlluenee of the winds is likewise of consMerable im-
jiirtanee in determinin*:^ the greater or lesser S(>verity of an
j\rriie climate. Thns the northerly winds which prevail in
A]l;illiirs iJay and Davis's Straits dnrine^ the smnnier months,
jjiiii'l till the straits of the American north-eastern Archipelay-o
fviili ice. are probably the nniin cause of the abnormal depres-
-^ien ('f temperature in that quarter; while, on the contrary,
lie southerly winds that prevail during- summer in the valley
j>\' the ]\rackeu/ae tend e-reatly to extend the forest of that
,*:l[''^'''i^^'d rcLt'ion nearly down to the slun-es of tiie Arctic Sea.
^Aeii in the depth of a Siberian winter, a sudden chan;n'e of
Mnid is able to raise tlu> thermometer from a mercury-con-
M
TIIK I'OI.AK \\(J1{LI).
I
l^'Ciiliii*^ cold t(» a tf'iiipcruturc iilxtvr the t'r('('/,iiii,'-|)i>iiit i>\'
Wilier, :ni<l a warm wiiu) Jias been kiinwii to cause I'aiii totiill
ill S|iity,l)ern'eii in tin ni(»iitli (»f' January.
The V(»ya;4'es of Kane ainl Belcher lia ve made us ae(|uain1'Ml
with tlie lowest temperatures ever i'elt I»_v man. ( )n Feh. ■>,
Is')!., while the toi*mer was winterint;* in Smith's Souml
(78° •»"' N. lat.), the mean (A' his Ix'st spirit-thermonieti !
sh(»wo(I the uiiexaniplcd temperature oi' — (!S° or |()()^ In-lnw
the iree/inn'-poiut of water. Then (dilori<' ether . heeiim,
aolid, and careful!}^ prepared chloroform e\hil)ited a »4Tanul;ii
]»elliele on its surface. The exhalations from the skin investnl
the i'xposed or partially clad parts with a wreath of va[Miin,
The air had a perceptible puiiL;eucy u[»on inspirtition, ainl
everyone, as it Avere involuntarily, breathed ^^-iiai'dedly with
(•oni]>ressed lips. Al»out the same time (February 1> ainl
10, 1851), Sir E. Belcher experienced a cold <»f —5')^ in
Wellin;4-toii Channel (7o° :>]' N.), and the still lower teiii-
periiture of —(12° on January 18, I8oo, in Nortlnnnberlaiu.l
Scmnd (70° 52' N.).
Whether the temperature of the air descends still lowci
on advanciu}^- towai'ils the pole, or whether these extrenn
de^^-rees of c<.»ld are not sometimes surpasseil in those moun-
tainous reL4'ions of the north which, thouj^-h seen, have iievci
yet been explored, is of course an undecided quest{(»n : s^
much is certain, that the observations hitherto nuide duriii;:
the "winter of the vVrctic regions have been limited to ten
short a time, and are too few in Jiiimber, to enable us ti
determine with anv deii-ree of certainly tho.se points whciv
the <4'reatest cold prevails.
All we Ivuow^ is, that beyond the Arctic Circle, and eii^lit
or ten degTees further to the south in the interior of tlir
continents of Asiii and America, the average temperature ot
the wijiter <j;-enerally ran^-os from —20° to — '50'' or evejiknvci'.
and for a great part of the year is able to convert mercun
into a solid body.
It uiay well be asked how nuin is al>le to bear the exccs-
sividy low temperature of an Arctic winter, which must aiipc:ii
truly appalling to an inhabitant of the temperate zone. A
thick fur clothing ; a hut small and low, where the waniitli
of a tire, or simjdy of a train-oil lamj), is husbanded in;:
narrow
liiiiiian
eliiii;if ('
Alt.T
w.iniit li
ClH'ili'll.-
;j-lV;|trr
iiiii'i'iiiil
ilni'.Msi
IiiimI. o}
(•iri'iilat(
of I III' II
Cl|s(,,|||,.,
Willlrl'.
•Til.. ;
ll'l.'l'f oil
1rii|iics.
KniMi'ii,
JTmiIiic'S
Avilifri- t,
liii'ii. P
III {'[u-V]
ol oiir p
e>l;il.lis]|(
I'l'IMliiciit
Oil (uir >
C''i\-,'i'ii|o.
is -;;()/
Tlirn. i
in III!' iid!
p'trili,.,! ;i
B:illks" L;
ill \..rt]i
Iii"iiiit;tin
or the sea,
lc;i\rs. t'ru
aii'l eii;|])li
to uliicli
•< '|ll(ii;|s. «
lli'licaliu"'
AUCTIC (•(»!, I».
of tlic
I it arc ot
luerciiry
I' exci'S-
appcav
|nK'. A
^vaniitli
hI ill :■
iiiiitmw sjiaci', iiiid iil)nvt' all, the woiulcrfiil power of ilic
liiHiiJii loiist it iitioii to arcoimiKxliitt' i1 self to cvrrv (•liiin;^'*' of
rlinialc. ^d fill' to couiitfract tin' riLi'our of the cold.
Altira vti'v lew davs llic ImmIv di'vclopcs ail iiicrcasiii'.;'
Av.niiitli iis till- t lii'niiomt'tci' (Icscciids ; for the air bciiii;'
(•(ii'ilfii.^cd l)_v ill'' fold, til'' liniu's inliaic at every bn^itli a.
• iTcatiT (iiiaiititv (tf oxvu'eii, which of course accelerates the
iiiti'i'iiai [irocess of coiidiusi ioii, wildcat the same time an
iiirr, asitiii' a|>i>ct ite. ti'i'atilicd with a co|ii(»iis su|»[»ly of animal
luiiij. oT ilcsh and fat, enriches the Mood and enahles it to
circulale more viL;"orously. Tims not only the hardy native
of the iiortli. lull even the healthy tvav(dler soon e-,.ts ac-
cii^toiiied to hear without injury the ri^-ours of an Ai'cti(3
Avintcr.
•The niysteri(»us conqtensations,' says Kane, ' hy whi(di we
iid;!|pt oiu'sclves to (diinate are more striking' here than intln^
1rH|iics. Ill the Polar /one the assaidt is immediate and
fjiHlden. and, uidikethe iiisi<lious fatality of hot countries,
jirnijiices its results rajtidly. Ft ve((uii'es hardly a siiie'le
V inter to tell who are to he the heat-makine- and acclimatisecl
iiieii. I'eterseu, for instance, who has resi(h'd for two years
lit I'liei'iiavik. seldom enters a room with a tire. Another
of our pai'ty, tlcore-e Jiiley, with a vie'cirous constitution,
€>'i;d>tished habits of fre(» exposure, and active cheerful teni-
jieiMuieut, has SO iuured himself to the cohl, that he sh'eps
on our slcdev j(»urneys without a blank'i't or any other
Cevei'iue- than his walking' suit, wdiile the outside temperature
is —■>{) .
'fhere are m-any i>roofs that a mihh'r climate once reie'ued
ill llie northern ree-iims of the e-htbo. Fossil pieces of wood,
petfilied acorns and lir-coues liavc bocii found in the Interior of
j!p;iiiks* Land by M'Cluve's slede-iue- parties. At Anakerdluk
ill Xorth Greenland (70° N.) a lar^v forest lies buried on a
:;^ieimtain surrounded by e-laciers, lOSO feet above the level
-'^t'the sea. Not (»nly the trunks and braucdies, but even the
leaves, fruit-cones, and seeds have been invservedin the S(»il,
||iid enal)U' the botanist to determine the species of the plants
4' uliich they belong*. They show that, besides firs and
'il'i"ias, oaks, plantains, (dnis, mae'iiolias, and even laurels,
li'iiiatiiiM' a climate such as that of Lausanne or Geneva,
u
Tin: I'uLAU WnUI.I).
i
ell
lluiirisIi(Ml fliiriii^' llif miocfiif |iri'i<M| in ;i cMiiiitrv uliciv
now ('V«'ii llic willow is ••umiiclifd {o (^r^'l'^t iilnn;^' llir n'lniiinl.
Durin;;' lln' s;mii<' f|Hicli <>{' llic ciirtli'M iiistnrv S|iit/,i»i'r;^'tii
Wiis liki'wisc covfrt'd willi sliitdv I'nrcsls. 'i'lic siiiiic |io|)liir«
iilid tilt' silliic sWiliri|t-L'Vlirt'SS I'l'ti iihIIhhi ilnhinni) wlliili
llicii llourislicd in Ndrlli ( Jivi-nliiiMl luivr liccii ioiiiid in ;i
lossiliscd st;ifr ill Hell Sound (Td" N.) by tin- Swedish natni-
iilisls, wli(» iilso discovered :i pliintiiiii iindii linden iis liii^li ,i>
7<S' and 7J'' in Kin^-'s \h\y — a jtrool' lliat in those times tin
eliuiate of S|»it/l>er^n'n eaniiot have heen coldei* than thm
which n<»w reii^ns insonthern Sweden and Norwav, eiLihten
(h'^rees nearer to tlie line.
We know that at [»resent the lir. the poplar, and the hee
<4'row lit'teen dey'rees further to the north than the [tlanta
— and the niiocciie [leriod no (l<iul>t e.\liil»ited the same jirn
portion. Thus the |ioplars and lirs wliiih then i^rew ii
Spitzljeru'en alon^' with plantains and lindens must lia\'
ran<4'ed as fai' as the pole itself, sup[)osiny' tha< [)oiid to li'
dry liind.
fn the miociMie times the Arctic /one evidently presente*!
a. very ditf'erent aspect from that whi(di it wears at [)resenl,
Now, during' the greater |)art of the y<'i<r, an innnense glacial
desert, which tln*(»unh its tloatin^' herj^s and diift-ice depvessc-
the tenii>eratnre of countries situated tar to the south, it then
consisted of verdant lands covered with luxui-iant forests and
bathed by an ojx'U sea.
What may have been the cause of these aniazinj;" chant;i>
of climate;' The readiest answi'r seems to be — a. ditt'ereni
distribntionof sea and land ; but then' is no reas(»n to beliew
that ill the niioeene times there was less land in the Arcti'
/one than at presi-nt, nor can any possiblo combinatioi! ii
water and dry land be ima<^'ined sutticient to account for flu
growth of laurels in (Greenland or of ])lantains in Spit/beri:vii,
Dr. Oswald Hoeris inclined to seek for an explanation of tin
})henonienon, not in more local terrestrial chan^-es, but in ii
diiferonce of the earth's position in tln^ heavens.
We now know that our sun, with his attendant plancb
our c;|j'
into til
H\ St. 'Ml
villi St:
111! VC Wil
0> lllr It
ChlStrlVt
or less.'
liiiM' a ji
and IJiii..
earili, l)L'
til.' h.'Mt
poles wil
hi> herd
Wlli.'ll CJI
gla.'iiil |i
Ar.iic el
of an iiit
Con. lit lull
Tliiiii|_.|
diiiu' a>|)
btilii.l.'s
e-A'-,...,| (1
8riii\\-c|;|.|
(k'liiiir; ,,
li^^ht iii-l
Oontiiiiial
she llllS I
whit. '11. 'ss
Tm'' iltllKis]
til'' iiati\f
their hunt
I Silt of
and satellites, performs a vast cii\de, enibrac
in<4' perhai
hundreds ttf thousands of years, round another star, and tliatj
Avo are constantly enterinj^- new reg'ions of space niitra veiled Inl
( IIAXii; IN AUn'M Ci.lMATK.
1-.
;ntUli<l.
|t(»|»liir>
wlii'li
id ill ;i
iiiitur-
lii'^li ;i>
llK'S 1 111
nil tlnit
'm'liti'i'ii
[dilliiain
nil' I'l"
o'l-cw ii
ist llilVi
lit to 1"
insciiti''!
|^>n'si'iii,
.{.' i^'hu'ia!
cpvi'sso.-
il tlK'ii
■L'Sts illlil
t'luiim''>
dill* 'IT I It
;) l)»'U<'\r
lie Al'fti''
lalion I'l
for til'
IzIm'VU'''"'
hn (if til'
Ibiit ill ;
pliiiit'i-
^H'rliii I'-
ll lid tlui'
Ivellod I'.v
(Mil rartli lirfoi'.-. \Vf cuiih' from I In- iimIxMowii. iiiid |tliiii;^r
iiiln t III' iinkiinw II : liiil so iiiiK'li is ci'i'tniii tliiit oiir solur
8\stilii inlis ill |.rrM'llt lliroll^-ll il Splirr lillt tllilllv pl'Oplt'd
villi stiirs, and there is no reiismi to doitld tliiit it iiiiiy oiiee
ll;i\c Willldered t lll'oliyll one of t llose celest iill provinces wln'l'e,
as tile ti'les(o|ie shows US, constelhit ioiis iiiH' fur more densely
chisteied. Hilt, its every stiir is il l»lii/in^' sun, the ermter
or lesser iiiiiiil»er (if theso heiiveiily bodies must evi<h'iitly
Liive :i |iio|i(irt ioiiiite ililllleiiee ll[((>ii th<' tellllK'riltlire of spilee.
and !liiis we limy siii)|Mise tliiit diirin;4'the niiocene [)eriod oiir
eiirili. iieiie^' lit t hilt time in ii iini>iih>us sich'reiil rej^'ioii, enjoyed
the lieiielit tif il higher tempenitiire which (dothed even its
peles with verdure. Ill t he eoiii'se of ii;4'es t he siiii coiidiieted
hi> held of pliinets into more solitiiry iiiid eohler I'ei^ions,
vlii'li raused the Wiiriii mioeeiie times to he foMoWi'd hy tlie
glaiial |ierio(K diiriii:;' whiidi the Swiss fhit lands bore an
All lie eharacti'i', and hiially the sun enierLied into ii spiiee
of an intermediate i haraeter, whicdi (h'termiucs the present
Conditieii I if the (dimates of our i^lolie.
'riiMiit^h Nature «;eiierally wears a more stern iiiid forl>id-
diii'j aspect oil iidvillieiii;^' towiirds the poh', yet the lii^h
kititinlis ha\e many beauties of their own. Notliinj^' can
^Xierd the iiiayaiificeiKH' of iin Arctic sunset, ch>tliin^' the
glH'W-clad iiiiiiintains and the skies with all tlie ^'lories of
CcloiU': or lie more serenely beiiiitifiil than the (dear stiir-
li^lil lULilit, ilhiniiiied by the brilliant moon, which for days
Ooiilimially eirtdes iiround tlie liori/oii, never setting- until
slie has run her Ion;;' eourse of hrii^ditness. The uniform
wliiteiirss of the laudsciipe iind the e-ciu'ral traiisjiiireiicy of
iiie atmosphere iuhl to tlie lustre of her bciims, which servi'
th'' natives to ^•ui(U' tlieir luimudic life, iuid to lead them to
th'ir liuiitiii«4'-e'rolllids.
I'Mt of nil the imii^aiiticeiit spectacles tluit relieve the
Bfli 111 ilniious ;^l('Oiii of the Arctic winter, there is none to
equal I he miu^ical Ijeauty of the Aurora. Niiifht covers
th' Miew-t'hid earth ; the stars odimmer feebly throu^di the
ha/'' whirh so fre(iueiitl\ dims their brilliancy in the hii^h
Uktitiide?,. when siiddeidy it broad and clear bow- of lij^ht spans
the li(i|-i/oii. in the direction where it is traversed by th(>
njiii -iiietie meridian. This bow soiiudinies remains f(.)r severiil
i<;
TIIK l'(»l,.\l{ \\'OKI,|>.
hours, lu'iiviii;^' or wavin;^" to iiiid fro, Ix-forc it sends tortl,
strciiins of lii^lit ascoiKUii;^' to the zenith. Sometimes tlicsr
Hashes pr(»(*ee(l I'rom the how of li|j;ht ahme ; at others the;
simultaneously shoot forth from many o[»posite parts of tlir
horizon, and form a vast sea (»f fire whose hrilli.iut waves nr,'
continually ehan^-ino- their position. Finally they all uniti
in a magnificent crown or cupolaof lii^ht, with the ai)pearaiUT
of which the phenomenon attains its highest derive ^l
splendour. The brilliancy of the streams, which are com-
monly red at their base, j^'reen in the middle, and li<a]it
yellow towards the zenith, increases, while at the same tiim
Ihey dart with j^Tcater vivacity thron<i'h tlie skies. Tin
colours are wonderfully transi>arciit, the red approachinj^- t(i;i
clear blood-red, the "Tcen to a pale emerald tint. On turning.'
fi'oni tlu^ ilaminn" firmanuMit to the earth, this also is seen ti
|l;'1ow with a ma^'ical liy'ht. The dark sea, black as jet, foiiii-
a, strikin*;' contrast to the white snow plain or the distant ici
mountain ; all the ontlines trend>le as if they belonged to llh
unreal world of dreams. The imposin<4' silence of the niL;lr
hei^'htensthe charms of the ma<j;'nilicent spectacle.
But gfradually the crown fadt'S, the bow of lii;ht dissolvis.
the streams become shorter, less freqnent, and less vivid:
and finally the i^'loom of winter once more descends upon Ilk
northern desert.
'I'hc rii'i-'nr ?nT.vv Owl.
ids fort I
lies these
luTS ill('\
Is of thi'
vaves iii'i'
till niiiti
poaraiKv
are coiii-
nd li^'ht
imo tiiin
PS. Th.
llill!4' t(i;i
II tlUMlili:
s seen ti'
I't, fonib
istaiit icr
vd to Ili>
tlio nil:]!:
ilissolvt's.
ss viviil;
upon till'
Sg^iyst^jS^-*^^
"' iimst (
I 'ii'iiiitif'u
imis (if fl
'jiiarc-tor:
MISK OXK.N ASU KLKS
■^^M^A^^
("iTAr'ri;if ii
AltCriC LAM) (ilA|)i;ri'i;i)S AM) lilK'D-
'I'iif Iiciiulcrr -Sli'Urlnvc of its Viu<\ — Chitli-riiiu Noise whfii W.illviii^- Aii'li-rs
I'.xtraordiiinrv Olt'ai'lory I'nwcrs — 'l'iii> Icrl.indic Moss rivs.-in aiiil t'oi'incr
i;aim(> of till' lu'imlciT— Its iiiviilii.-il-lr (,iiialilii s as an Ai''-t ir >loiiii st ic Aiiiiiiai
■-liovoit^
iiiist ()|ii)r('ssiori
-Kliclllir.s ot' I 111' liciliilfV — Till- Wolf — 'I'll
(ilutloii oi' Wolvcriiii' — riail-tlirs — 'I'iic lOlk or Moosi- Ilri'i- — TUc .Mu-l-c-ox -
'i'lir W'iM Slifi'U of flic liorkv Moiiiitaiiis — 'I'lir Silufiaii Ai'uali Tln' An'i ic
'X--lts hnri'iw
I'
Aiialida- Tl
'rile I,riiiiiiiiit:s — 'I'lirir .M itii'atioii
— Tlif I. all! iiiil limit
s aii'i laii iiii'S
— Aivti
!■ >no'.\ -I'liiil iji:
iiitiii
a-caLMc
Ui'ouiii'i liy a I)ol|'
rpiIE rciiidt'or luav well IxM-allcd llic oaiiu'l ol'tlit' iioi'llii'rii
wastes, iVtr it is a tin Ifss valtialil
(' ('(>in[iaiiii«ii to t hi' \,a\)-
llainli'V or to tlio Sainoji'dc tlian tli<' 'sliiii of the iIomt! ' lo
il!ir wandering' BodoTiiii. It is tin' oiilv iik'HiIi'M- of the
hiuiiicfoiis (leer t'aiuily tliiii lias Ihtii (loiiicst icali'd li_v iiiau ;
jlnit lliou;^'li iindouhtctlly llio iiiosi ust-l'iil. it is li_v no uicaiis
lie most coiucly ol'its rare. Its clear dark ('_V(> has, iiidcod,
^i hi'.iutit'ul oxprossioii, hut it has iioithcr ihc iiol.)l(^ [iro]>or-
tioiis of the sta^' nor tln^ o-vafo of tlu' rov'biudc, and its thick
Mill
n't'-t'orinod body is far iVom licino- a model ol' eloua
ncc
18
TlIK I'OI.AU \V(»I{F;1).
Its If'H's iirc sliovt ;in(l tliicls, its f'cot l)roii<l Imt oxtremr'ly
vvoll adiipiofl foi' wiilkiiiLi' over the snow or on a swain|iy
L;T()\ni(l. The lV<»iit lionls. Avhicli arc capable <»t' '^'rcat lateral
expansion, enrve npwards, Avliile the two secondary onc>
iK'liind (which arc l)nt sliy'litly develo}»ed in the fallow derr
jind other niemhers of the family) are consideraldy prolonj^'ed ;
a striietnre which, hy <4'ivin;4' the animal a broader base td
stand upon, i»revents it from sinlcinj^' too deeply into the snow
or the morass. Had the foot of the reindeer been formed
like that of our sta*;-, it would have been as unable to drag- tin
Laplander's sled«^'e with such velocity over tlie yieldinj^' snow-
tields as the camel wonld l)e to perforin his long- marclns
thron<j;"li the desert without the broad elastic sole-pad on
Avhich lie lirndy i)aees the unstable sands.
The short leg's and broad feet of the reindeer likewis.'
enable it to swim with greater ease — a power of no small
importance in countries alxmnding in rivers and lalc<'s, and
where the st-arcity of food renders perpetual migratioib
iiecessar}'.
When the reindeer walks or merely moves, a remarlcabli
clattering sound is hoard to some distance, about the caiisr
of Avhich naturalists and travellei's bv no means agree. Mesi
probably it results from the great length of the two digits ci
the cloven hoof, which Avhen the animal sets its foot upon
the gr<mnd separate Avidely, and Avlien it again raises it-
hoof, suddenly clap against each oth<r.
A long mane of a dirty a lite colour hangs from the iied
of the reindeer, hi sumnu'r the body is brown abt)ve an;
Avhite beneath ; in winter, long-haired and white.
Its antlers are very ditferent from those of the stag, haviiij
broad palinated summits, and bra.ching back to the lenytlij
of three or four feet. Their Aveight is frequently very ceii-
sideral)le — twenty or twenty-live ])ounds ; and it is remark-
able that both sexes IniA^e horns, Avhile in all other niembti-
of Hie deer race the males alone are in possession of tlii'
ornament or Aveapon.
The female brings forth in May a single calf, rarely tw
This is small and Aveak, but after a fcAV days it follows ll;
mother, avIk* suckles her young but a short time, as t issooEJ
able to seek and to find its food.
The reindeer gives very little milk — at the A*ery utmos
FOOD OF TUK Ki:i.\in:i:i{.
19
ivinclv
IV
\vi\in\
•y ones
DNV (locV
base tc
lie snow
1 Ibrincil
Llrag" till'
io; siKtw-
11KIVC-Ilf>
'-pad <»ii
likewise
no siuall
ilces, ami
ioTatinlb
inai"
■leal.
ho eausi
}e
(li^'it
t n\
s <i
()(>
Mil
aisos It-
jove aiM
'•, liaviu.
lie
lei 1 lit
|very '•"i'-
vein ark
lineinluT
f tlii
111 t>
11
ows
ilti'i- 111'' VfiiiiiLi' has been weaned, a boftlet'iil daily; l>ut the
<|iialily i> e\(
if
)nsi.sl> a
I'lleiit, for it is aneomiiionly thick and nutritious.
Inidst entirely of ereani, so that a ^'ivat deal of
wali'i'caii lie aihled l».'ti»re it beediiies inferior to the best et»\v-
iiiilk. Its taste is exeelleut, but the Ijutter iiuub' from it is
raiicid and hanlly to be eaten, while the ebeese is vei-y j^'odd.
The (-lily fond of the reindeer durin,4' Avinter et^nsists of
iii<i.>s, and the most surprising" eireumstauei' in his liis'.ory is
till' instinct, (ir the extraordinary olfactory powers, whereby
he is ciiahjcd to discover it wdieii hidden beneath the snow.
Ihiwcvcr (h-cp the Liclnni rdtxj'tfi'r'nin^ I'li'V be buried, the
animal is aware of its jiresciice the moment he comes to the
s|Mit. and tJiis kind of food is never so an'reeable to him as
when he di^'s for it himself In his manner of doing" this he
is icinai'lcahly a<b"oit. Ibiving" first ascertained, by thrusting
liis iiin/./lc intd the snow, whether the moss lies below or not.
iie'^ins inak'ing a
hole witli his for<' feet, and continue
w. liking until at length he uncovers the lichen. No instance
has ever occurred of a reiiahn'r making" such a cavity without
(liscovering the moss he seeks. In summer tlieir tbod is <if a
ditiei'eiit nature; they are then })astiired upon green lu-rbs or
1 lie lea\cs of tri
es.
Juduiim" from the jicl
len s appearand' in
l!ie lint iiioiilhs, when it is dry and brittle, one might easilv
WMiidcv tliat so large a (piadi'uped as the reindeer should
make it iiis favourite food and fatten U[)on it ; but towards
llie iiioiilh of September, the licdien becomes soft, tender, and
the ncrl; damp, with a taste like wheat-bran. Tn this state its luxii-
Tiaiil aiK
loWC
rv ramitications somewli it resemble the leav
es
(if endive, and are as white as sno
w,
'riitiiia'h domesticated since time immemorial, the reindeer
li;i> only pai'tly been brought uiuh.'r tlu' yoke of man, and
^^allder■^ in large wild herds both in the North American
A\;i-;rs, wlicrc it lias never yet been re(biced to servituih-,
111
llie forests and tumh'as of the Old World.
Aiiii'i'i
ca, w
here it is called 'caribou,' it extends fi-on
l,ilii,id(ii" to Midville Fsland and Washingt(m Land; in
lirelv tW' 1 iiepc and Asia, it is found from Laidand and Norway, and
i '111 tlif mountains of jMongolia and the banks of tlie Ufa as
■^ Is SCI ^ ' ''^ Xo\aja Zemlya and Spitzljergen. Many centuries ago
- pvehalily during" the glacial period— its rang"e was still more
K ntnio>
20
TIIK I'OLAIf WOULD.
oxinisivo, iis rcindiMM" bonos nvc fr('([U('nt1y ImiiikI in Froudi
iiiid (Jcniiiiii ciivcs, inuT bear tcstinioiiy to the severity (»!' tlie
climate whieli at tbat time rei^'iie*! in Central I<]ur<)pi>, for tin-
I'eindeor is a cold-loviii;^" animal, and will not tlirive under si
milder sky. All attempts to prolon<j;' its lite in onr /oolo^'iciil
j4'ardens have tailed, and even in the royal park at Stockliolia
H()i>"<^'ner saw some of these animals, wliich were quite iani^nid
and emaeiated dnrijig the summer, although care had been
taken to provide them with a cool grotto to whieh they eouM
retire dnring the warnun* hours of the day. Tn summer tlic
reindeer can eniov h-'alt:< only in the fresh mountain air or
along the braiMug > a-sii 'i'e, and has as great a longing for ii
low temp(n-aturc as man i"; I he genial warmth of his Hresidf
in winter.
The reindeer is eas !^ ti-nied ;.n<l soon gets accustomed id
its master, whose society u ]ove^•, iii''acted as it were l)y ;i
kind of innate sympathy; for, indike all other domestic
animals, it is l)y no means dependent on nnm for its subsist-
ence, bnt finds its nourishment alone, and wanders abfmt
freely in summer and in winter witlumt ever being* enclosed
in a stable. These qualities are inestimable in countries
where it wonl<l be utterly impossil)le to kee]> any domestic
aninuil reipiiring- shelter and stores of provisions dviring" the
long' winter months, and make the reindeer the tit com-
panion of the northern nomad, Avhose simple wants it almosi
wholly su]>])lies. During his Avanderings, it carries his tent
and scanty household furniture, or drags his sledge over the
snow. On account of the Aveakness of its back-bone, it is
less tit for riding, and requires to be mounted with care, as ;i
violent slnxdc easily dislocates its A'ertebral column. Yen
Avould liardly suppose the reindeer to be the same animal avIk'ii
languidly creeping' along under a rider's AA-eight, as Avlieti.
unencund)ered by a load, it vaults Avith the lightiu'ss of a binl
over the obstacles in its Avay to obey the call of its master,
The reindeer can be easily trainc^d to drag a sledge, but great
care must hi) taken not to beat or otherAviso illtreat it, as
it then becomes obstinate and quite unmanageable. When
forced to drag too heavy a load, or taxed in any Avay abovo
its streng'th, it not seldom turns round upon its tyrant, mul
attacks him Avith its horns and fore feet.
o saAT liimso
L'lf
I I'lPlii
tit S I ■
aiiini;
A ft
everv
U'"0(|,
di'lii-ni
h'Sl. |\
I'lidilii
In llie
.llid uti
hi.Ciis ;
til Ml (,f
'"!• tlli:
lll Toi',
s.'lil to
• Ife e.\1i
'I'illis
., Ii.il-dly 1
* of (Ih.
iIm' Sjiiii
, ini'iitiipii
with a 'j;
l.ii' MKire
The r,
.^'Ml's, hu
tiiiiii six
W'df. and
■ which he
. iiiid is sai
. !•- a hi Mlt
„:iiid the
[f^cliihiiiit;
^'U'l'eeing
-ll'ilhh. ,,(
F'''l'' to s(
hat ii cat
pi 'I Ml tl'i'Cs
r '"''■'' it a
U'h,.„ ,
TiiK i:i:iM)i:i;ij .\.m» its knkmiks.
21
■cni-li
f til"
idov ii
)o-iciil
diolni
L l)Ofli
■ coiiM
icr the
aiv <iv
(>• tor !i
iiresitli'
mod t(i
nuostic
subsist-
s about
lic'lost'il
uiitrios
oincstic
ni^' ilu'
: coin-
aliuosi
lis tent
vcr ilit'
IVmiii its t'inv, lit' is llicii ()I>li<4'(Ml lo ovcvtuiMi his slt'tl^-c. ;iii<l
in si'ils ;i I't'lu^v uiHltT its iKittitiii until tlif ni;;'*' «>f tlir
niiiiiial li;is abiitt'd.
Alter tin- (lentil oi' tlir n-iiKleer, it iiiiiy truly he s;iul that
evei'_\ ]i;n't of its budj is put to some use. The llesh is very
u'ood. iiiid tilt,' toii<i'U(' and man'tiw art' ('oHsitlcrcd a iiTcat
(lelii ;ny. Till' Ido.iil, of which not a drop is allowed tt) be
lost, is either drank warm or made up intt) a kind of l)laid<-
piiddiii^'. The skin furnishes not only (•lt)tliiny' imjiervious
to tlie cold. Imt tents and Vx'dtline' ; jind spoons, knife-handles,
;iiid other household utensils are made out of tht> bones and
lioiiis: till' latter servo also, like the cdaws, tor the prejiara-
tioii (if an excellent <;'luo, which the Chinese, \vlit> buy them
i'oi' this purpose of the I^ussians. use as a nutritious jelly,
111 Toniea tho skins of new-born reindeer are preparetl and
sent to St. Petersburg' to bo manufactured into <^loves, which
life extremely soft, but very ik'ar.
Tims the ct»i-oa-nut palm, the tree of a hundred uses,
liaiilly rentiers a <4'reater variety of sei'vices tt> the islanders
of the Indian (Jcean than the reintleer to the liaplantlei' t)r
ilie Saiiiojetle; and, to the htmour of these barbarians be it
iiieiitioiietl, they treat their invaluable friend and companion
with a e'l'ateful att'ecti(»n \vhicli mi^ht serve as an example to
r.M' iiioi'e civilist'd nations.
The reindt'or attains an aj^c of from twenty tt) twenty-tive
\ ears, hut in its th>mosticated state it is g'onorally killed when
ti'iiii sixttiten years old. Its most dan^'orous enemies are tht-
wojt'. and the elulton t»i' wolverine {(rnli> hurcdlis or (irrfina^)^
|\\liirli helon<4S to the bloodthirsty marten and weasel family,
hiiiil is saitl tt> be of nnconimon fiereonoss and strength. It
lis ahout the size of a largo badger, between which animal
iiiinl the |K)le-cat it seems to be intermediate, nearly re-
1^' nihliije the foi'mer in its general figure and aspect, aiitl
liiuivciiig with the latter as tt) its dentition. No dog is
piliahle of nrastoring a glutton, antl even the wolf is hanlly
d'le ttt scare it from its proy. [ts feet are very short, so
Hiat it ( aniitit run swiftly, but it clindjs with groat facility
^ilit'ii trees, t)r ascends oven almost perpendicular rock-walls,
here it also seeks a refuge when pm'suod.
^\ lieii it perceives a lu-nl of reindeer browsijig la'ai" a
v>
TUH I'OLAK \VOIir<D.
wood or ii pivcipiee, it f^euorally lies in wait upon a branch
or .sonic hiu'h eljlt', and sprinyH down npon tlio first aninml
tliiit comes witliin its reaeli. Sonietinics also it steals ini-
awares u}K)n its prey, and suddenly bounding- upon its back,
kills it by a sin^-le bite in tlie neck. Many fables worthy ot
Miineblianseu have b«'en told about its voracity; for in-
stance, that it is able to devour two reindeer at one meal,
and that, Avhen its stomach is exorbitantly distended willi
food, it will press itself between two trees or stones to make
room for a, n<'w repast. It will, indeed, kill in one ni^-ht six
or eiyht reindeer, but it contents itself with suckin<>" their
blood, as the weasel does with fowls, and eats no more at our
meal than any other carnivorous animal of its own size.
Besides the attacks of its mij^htier enemies, the reindeer is
subject to the pers<.'cutions of two species of fjad-fly, Avhiili
torment it exceedingly. The one (C/v'.s•^^^^s• tardudi), called
Hurbma by the Laplanders, deposits its o-hitinous ey*>'S upon
the animal's back. The larva,*, on creeping- out, immediately
bore themselves into the skin, where by their motion ami
suction they cause so many small swelling's or boils, w'hicli
•^•radually ^-row^ to the size of an inch or more in diameter,
with an openinj^ at the top of each, through which the larv;i
may be seen imbedded in a purulent Huid. Frequently
the whole back of the animal is covered with these boils.
which, by drainin«ji' its fluids, produce emaciation and disease.
As if aware of this dang'cr, the reindeer runs wild ami
furious as soon as it hears the buzzing" of the fly, and seeks ;i
refu<»-e in the nearest water.
The other species of <j;-ad-fly {(h'sh-in^ ))ns(iUK) lays its eL;'u>
in the' nostrils of the reindeer; aiul the larvre, boring them-
selves into the fances iind beneath the tongue of the \)t»'\
animal, are a great source of annoyance, as is shown by it-
frequent snifHing and shaking of the head.
A pestilential disorder like the rinderpest Avill sometime! |
sweep away Avhole lierds. Thus in a few Aveeks a rich Liiii-|
lander or Samojede may be reduced to poverty, and the pronl
possessor of several thousaiuls of reindeer be compelled ti
seek the precarious livelihood of the northern fishernum.
The elk or moose-deer {Crrvni^ alces) is another member I'tj
the cervine race peculiar to the forests of the north. In 8i» j
It is
sliapi
sluD't
Weigl
I'l'oin
legs,
o\er (
of till
le^S a
< 'iesai',
llie ({(
liJIVc Si
.-■iiigle
lliat b
iiiid hii
.V( p
];ast P:
tile IIK
It is I.
itself 1,
iiml (ilji
Vsei'k a 1
ing to t
tains, w
'fit tiiids,
; ■which i
;-jliannles:
^ler<.city
:;|"\ig<Mir, ]
,twitji its
'. d''.\fruiis
>liy and
the Inivs
piiasi'd
..'"Vered
^vi'ak to
TllOH'
<, we Ii
TIIK KLK Oli .MOOSK-DKKH.
23
M'ilUcll
inimiil
Is ini- ':
s ini<-'l<, -^
vtliy i.f 2
tor iii-
i iiieal
3d with
111 alec
io-lit six
i(T tht'iv
'E5
at one
--I
i/,0.
;;-|
indoor is
;',,i
jTj Avliieli
), callf'l
I'u's upon
'^l
lodiatcly
tion and
fjv
Is, whic'li
¥
liamotiT.
the larv.i
•oqiiontly
so boils.
disoaso.
vild au'l
il sool^s a
1 its i'ii'S-
i<r tlioin-
'»
the poo
WW by it
>metinu
>
ich Liq
-
ho pron
il
pelk'd 1
1
mum.
km
iber ofl
III siA
it is far sni)orior to tho statif, but it oaniiot boast of an olopmt
sliaiM', tlio head bcin-;' disproportionatoly larov, the neok
short and tliicic. and its innnonso horns, whii-h .soniotinios
Avriyh near lifty p(»unds, oach diiathio- almost iinmcdiatoly
from the l»as(' into a broad palmated form; Avhih,> its k»n<j;-
l«';^s, hi^h shoulders, and heavy upper lip hanoino* very much
over (he lower, o-ive it an uncouth appearance. The colour
of till' elk is a (lark o-rcyish brown, but nuich paler on the
[c^s and beneath the tail.
W'c owe the first <h'scription of this ;^'io*iintic (U'or to Julius
Ciisiir, in whose times it was still a common inhabitant of
the (iennan forests. P.nt the conqueror of (hull can hardly
have seen it himself, or he would not have ascribed to it a
single horn, placed in the middle of the forehead, or said
that both sexes are perfectly alike, for the female is smaller
ami has no antlers.
Ai present the elk is still found in the swampy forests of
Hast Prussia, Lithuania and Poland, but it chietly resides in
the nil ire northern woods of Russia, Sib<'ria, and America.
It is a mild and harndess animal, principally supporting-
itself by l)r<i\vsin«:f the boughs of willows, asps, service trees,
and nthcr soft S[»ecies of wood. It does not, lik(> the reindeer,
srek a refuse ao-ainst the attacks of the o-ad-tlios, by wander-
in;^' to the coasts of the sea, or retreatino- to the bare moun-
tains, where it would soon perish for the want of adequate
innd, l)ut pluntj;'es up to the nose into the next river, where
it finds, moreover, a species of water-grass [Fi'^fuvn Jhn'tnus)
\\\\'\r]i it likes to feed upon. Though naturally mild and
li,irnd(>ss, it displays a high degree of courage, ami even
(fiiMcity wln.'u suddenly attacked; defending itself with great
^i-nnv, not only with ilo horns, but also by striking violently
Avith its fore feet, in the use of which it is particularly
d' xtious. It is generally caught in traps, as it is extremely
sliv and watchful, and tinds an easy retreat in the swamp or
tin' forest. The oidy time of the year when it can be easily
(liiist'd is in the sjiring, when the softened snow gets
ci'Mved durhig the night with a thin crust of ice Avhich is too
\\i ;ik to bear the aniinars weight.
Thongh not ranging so far north as the reindeer or the
Ik, we thid in the Old World the red-deer [Cervus elaphvs).
u
TiiH I'oi.AU Would.
ill Iho vicinity of Drouthcini in Norway, uud aloii^ with tlic
roebuck boyond Lake Baikal in Siberia, wliile in America tlie
lar<j;e-eareJ deer {Cervnx m(u-ri>f'ix)^ and the Wa^uti or Canada
sta<4" {('rrcuH .stniiHfnf(t-ci-i'at<), I'xtend tlieir exciu'sions beyond
55° of northern iatitnde. Tlie latter is nnich lar<4;er and of
a stronfrer make than the Euroi)ean red-deer, frequently
^Towin<4' to the hei<,dit of our tallest oxen, and })oHse.ssin«4
M-reat activity as well as strength. The Hesh is little prized,
but the hide, when made into leather after the Indian fashion,
is said not to turn hard in dryin;^", after beinj^ wet — a quality
which justly entitles it to a preference over almost every
other kind of leather.
One of the njost remarkable quadrupeds of the hi^li
northern rej^ions is the nuisk-ox {Oflbox nii>sch((tnx), which liy
some naturalists has been considered as intermediate between
the sheep and the ox. It is about the heig'ht of ii deer, l)iit
of much stouter proportions. The horns are very broad iit
the base, almost meeting on the forehead, and curving' doAvii-
wards between the eye and ears until about the level of the
mouth, when they turn upw'ards. Its long thick brown or
black hair luinging down below the middle of the leg, and
covering on all parts of the animal a tine kind of soft ash-
coloured wool, which is of the Hnest description and capal)le
of forming the mc)st beantiful fabrics manufactured, enables
it to remain even during the winter beyond 70° of northern
latitude. In spring, it wanders over the ice as far us
Melville Island, or even Smith's Soiiiid, where a number of
its bones were found by Dr. Kane. In September it Avitli-
draws more to the south, and si)ends the coldest months on
the verge of the forest-region. Like the reindeer, it subsists
chiefly on lichens and grasses. It runs nimbly, and climbs
hills and rocks with great ease. Its fossil remains, or tlio.so
of a very analogous species, have been discovered in Siberia :
at present it is exclusively confined to the New World.
In the Kocky Mountains, from the Mexican Cordillera-
plateaux as far as 08° N. lat., dwells the wild sheep {OcIk
moiitaud), distinguished by the almost circular bend of its
large, triangular, transversely striped horns, from its relativo
the Siberian argali {Ovia argali), which is supposed to be the
parent of our domestic sheep, and far surpasses it in size
and delieacv of flesh. Both the American and the Asiatic
AKCI'K lAlNA.
Sfi
ipal)U'
lablc's
•tliovii
"ill- us
jer ul
Kvitli-
ths oil
Ibsists
lliuibs
|tli»'f<t'
jeria :
lllera-
)f its
lativo
»e the
si'A'
iatic
wild s]n'('|» ;in' in tlif lii^-hest dco-rce iietivo and vii^'orons,
iiso'iidiny altrupt pivt-ipii-cs with i^Tcat ay'llity, and, like
tin- wild '^•••at, ^'oiiM^ over the niirrowt'st and must dangerous
|i;issi's with [u'vtt'i't satbtv.
Aiiioii'^'thc caniivorons (inadrupt'ds of tht' n(»vth('rn l•e^•i(>ns,
iiKiiiv, like th<' lynx, the wolf, tlio bear, the ^-hitton, and
ctlicr nu'iuhei's of the weiisel tiilte, have their lu'ad-qnarters
ill the forests, and only oceasionally roam over tlie tnndras ;
but th(.> Arctic fox {Onu's Jiiiiitjtnx) abnost exehisively inhabits
the treeless Wiistes that frino-c the Polar ocean, and is fonnd
on idmost all the islands that lie buried in its bosom. This
pretty little creature, which in winter ;L;'rows perfectly white,
knows how to protect itself ay'ainst the most intense cold,
eitlier bv seeking a refn«je in the clefts of rocks, or bv
Iturrowiny to a considerable depth in a sandy soil.
It principally preys upon lennnin^'s, stoats, polar hares, as
Will iis upon all kinds of water-fowl and their ey^^s ; but,
when j>in(*hed l)y hnno-er, it does not disdain the carcases of
lisli. or the molluscs and crustaceans it may ch.ince to pick
np on the shore. Its enemies are the fjlutton, the snowy
owl. and man, who, from the equator to the poles, leaves no
creature unmolested that can in any way satisfy his wants.
The lenuiiin^^'s, of which there are many species, are small
ntdeuts, ptculiar to the Arctic regions, both in the New and
in the Old World, where they are found as far to the north
as vcf^'etation extends. They live on gTass, ro(»ts, the shoots
of the willow, and the dwarf birch, but chieHy on lichens.
They do not gather hoards of provisions for the winter,
hut live upon what they find beneath the snow. They
-I'ldoni prove injurious to man, as the regions they inhabit
are generally situated beyond the limits of agriculture.
I'roni the voles, to Avhom they are closely allied, they are
distinguished by having the foot-sole covered with stiff hairs,
and by the strong crooked (daws with which their fore feet
;iie armed. The best known species is the Norwegian lem-
ming {Iti'mmusnorwcfiicus), which is found on the high nioun-
tains of the Dovrefjeld, and further to the north on the dry
parts of the tundra, where it inhabits small burrows under
slones or in the moss. Its long and thick hair is of a tawny
(•< il( MU-' and prettily nuu-ked with black spots. The migrations
of the lemming have been grossly exaggerated by Olaus
2U
TIIK l'()l,AI{ WOIM.I).
Ma|,Mius and P()nt(>[»i)i(lim, to wlunii tho iiaiiiriil liiMt(»rv nt
tlu^ North owes so mniiy liil)I<'H. As tlioy bn'cd si'Vi'nil tinus
ill the year, pnMliu-iii;;" live or six at a l)irtli, tlu'v of coiu'si'
imilliply very last under i'avoiiriiblo cin'innHtaiiees, and aic
I Ih'ii forced to leave the district which is no hni^er abh- id
atl'ord them food. Jiut this takes j»lace very seldrni, for
when Mr. Hrehin* visited Scandinavia, ih«.' people (»ii the I)o-
vrefjehl knew nothing- about the nii^'ratioiis of the Icinniinii',
and his encpiiries on the subject prov«'d e<]ually friiith'ss in
Lai»laiid and in Finland. At all events it is a fortuii'ite cir-
cumstance that the h'mmin^s have so many eiiemi(>s, as their
ra[>id muhi[)licatiou mi<4ht else endaii<4'er the balance of
existence in the northern retjfions. The inclemencies of the
climiito are a chief means for kei'pin^ them in check. A
"wet summer, an early cold and snowless autumn deHtr(»y
them by millions, and then of course years are necessary td
recruit tlu'ir numbers. With the exception of the bear ami
the hed^eho^', they are pursued by all the northern carnivora.
The Avolf, the fox, the d-hitton, tho marten, the ermine,
devour them with avidity, and a yood lemming' season is ;i
time of unusual plenty for the hund-ry Laplander's do<^^ The
snowy owl, whose dense plumage enables it to be a constant
resident on tho tundra, almost exclusively frequents thos(
places wIkhv lemming's, its favourite food, are to bo found ;
the buzzards are constantly active in their destruction; the
crow feeds its yoiui;^- with lemmind-s ; and even the poor
Lap, when pressed by hunger, seizes a stick, and, for want
of better yame, <j;-oes out lemmino'-huntino-, and rejoices
when ho can kill a sutticiont number for his dinner.
Several birds, such as the snowy owl and the iitarmioan
{L(«loi)ns albux), which can easily procure its food Tinder the
snow, winter in the highest latitudes ; but by far tho greater
number are merely summer visitants of the Arctic regions.
After the little bunting, the first arrivals in spring are tlu'
snow-geese, who likewise are the lirst to leave the drearv
regions of the north on their southerly migration. TLf
common and king eider duck, the Brent geese, the gi-eat
northern, black and red throated divers, are the next to make
tlnnr appearance, followed by the pintail and longtail ducks
'llliistrirtL.>s Thicrlebon.' lliklburgliauseii, 186.').
.MI(iUAT(»UV KIKIiS.
27
n- tlu'
L'eater
;-ioiis.
e thf
roiin
The
S( I
(„,/.s' < ,1 inhiriifii if iiliiri'iilis), tlic liitcst visiters of the sciiMuii.
TIh'si' liii'ils f,ft'ii('i'iillv liikt' tlit'ir (Icitiirtiin' in <Ii<' siiiMc ordrr
;is <li''y iirrivc. The [)c'ri<Ml of tlicir sliiy is Imt sliurt, l)iif
ill •'•• iii-csriicf iiiipiirts a \v<iii<lri'full_v clit'i'rful iispt'ct lu
r.' Sill otlit'i" < iiiit's so (Icsrrtctl iiiitl <lrt'!ii'_v. As soon iis
till' yoniiy- iirc siiHi 'iciitly II<m1;4'(,'(1, they aj^'iiiii lu'tiiki* tlirni-
s.'lvcs fo lln' soiitliwai'tl ; till' cliiiriictcr of the st-asim iiiui'h
iiilliK'iifiiiLj' tin' jM'i-iod of their depiirtinv.
As till' !is iiiiiii hiis priietrnted, on the most northern islets
(if S[»it/Itei';^'en, or on the ice-hloclced shores of Kennedy
('li;iniiel, III'' eider duck and others of the Arctic anatidie
Kiiild Iheir nests ; and there is no renson to (h)ul)t thiit, if the
|Mp|i' liiis hreedin<^*-}»liices for them, it ri^-eehoes with their
ciii's. Nor need they fear to j>lnn;4'e into the very heart of
tlif Arctic /oiu', for the tliy-ht of a j^-iKtse bein^- forty or (illy
milt iiii hour, these birds may breed in the rem<»test northern
", iind in a few hours, <»n a fall of deep autumn snow,
themselves by their swiftness of vvini^- to better feed-
iiin- o'r(i\nnls.
( )ii(' (if the most iutorestin;^' of the Arctic birds is the snow-
liiiiitiii;^" [I'lirfrojthtoti's nlralls), which may properly be called
llir [tolar sin^'in;^- bird, as it breeds iu the most northern
isles, such as Spit/Jnn'j^vn aud Novajii Zenilya, or on the
highest iiiountiiins of the Dovrefjeld iu Seandiiiiivia, where
it enlivens the fn<>'itive summer with its short but a^'reeable
I II It's, sounding' doubly sweet fr(»m tlie treeless wastes in which
till y tire heard. It invariably builds its nest, Avliich it lines
villi I't'iithers and down, in the fissures i>f numntaiii rocks
iif under lar^'o stones, and the entrance is <4'enerally so narrow
lis merely to allow the parent birds to })ass. The ri'iiuirkably
dense winter plumaj^'e of the snow-bunting" es})ecially qualifies
il for a northern residence, and when in ciiptivity it will
liillier bear the severest cold than even a moderate de<''ree
"I' Wiinuth. In its broediug'-places it lives almost exclusively
ell insects, particularly ynats : during the Avinter it feeds on
all sorts of seeds, and then famine frequently compels it to
wander to a less rigoroiis clinuite.
riie Lapland bunting {Centt'ophanes hijrpoHicns), whose
white iiiid black plunuige is agreeably diversified with red, is
likewise an inhabitant of the higher latitudes, where it is
tie(|ueutly Seen iu the barren grounds and tundras. Both
n
TIIK 1'OI.All WORLD.
tlioso ])ir(ls are distiiiouisliod by the very lon£>' claw of their
hind toe, a structure which enables thein to run about with
ease upon the snow.
Aniono- the raptorial birds of the Arctic regions, the sea-
eaud<! {Ihiliivtn.s nlhlcUht) holds a conspicaou< rank. At his
a|)proach the <^'ull and the aulc conceid themselves in the
lissures of the rocks, but are frequently drayf»'ed forth by
ilieir relentless enemy. The divers are, according to Wali-
lengren, more imperilled from his attacks than those sea-
birds which do not plunge, for the latter ris(> into the air
as soon as their piercing eye espies the universally dreaded
tyrant, and thus escape ; while the former, blindly trusting to
the element in which they are capable of finding a temporary
refuge, allow him to approach, and then suddenly diving,
fancy themselves in safety, while the eagle is only waiting
f(tr the moment of their reappearance to repeat his attack,
Twice or thrice they may possibly escape his claws by a rapid
plunge, but wIumi for the fourth time they dive out of the
Avater, and remain but one instant above the siu-face, that
instant seals their doom. The sea-eagle is equally formidable
to the denizens of the ocean, but sometimes too great a con-
fidence in his strength leads to his destruction, for Kittlitz
Avas informed by the inhabitants of Kamtschatka that,
pouncing upon a dolphin, he is not seldom dragged down into
the water by the diving cetacean in whose skin his talons
remain fixed.
k l"l^ i'-i u .
X't'ssel liRea out, oi cnc Water by Ice.
CHAPTER II [.
THE ARCTIC SKAS.
li.iuirii'-
iccuhar to Ih
AiTtii- Sea — L'
-irnnunock'^ - Coll
1>
•'— Ii^o-bcrys — 'J'luir Oi'iicin — Their Si
'L'ht' (ilacicTs wliicii fj:iv<' ilu'iii
Da
l)irtli — Tluir Beauty — Sometimes useful Auxiliaries to tlie 3Iariiier-l)ani;ers ot
AiirliMrins to a liiTg — A eruniMing Iht^ — Tlie lei-liliuk — Fof>:s— Trans pare iiey
(it til.'
Atinospliere— riienomena of luflectiou ami Refraetiou — Ca
usis wliieli
] ivvtiit the Accumulation of Polar Ice — Tides — Currents — Ice a bad Cunduetor
of IKat — Wise Provisions of Nature.
|rrilK heart of the first n!ivi<jfator, says Horace, must have
X boon shickled with throelbld brass — and yet the poet kiK.'w
Imt the sunny Mediterranean, with its tepid Hoods and smiling-
shores : liow, then, woukl he liave found words to express his
iistdiiishnient at the intrepid seamen who, to open noAv vistas
t<i sciiiice or new roads to coninierce, first ventured to face
the imkiiown terrors of the Arctic main":^
Til (Very part of the ocean the mariner has to jiniard aij-ainst
jtlic perils of hidden shoals and sunken cliffs, but the hi<>'h
iKirtliorn waters are doubly and trebly dano-erous ; for here,
|l)t'sides those rocks whieh are firmly rooted to the ^Tonnd,
.•50
TlIK POLAR WORLD.
tliere are others wliicli, freely floating' about, threaten h\
crush his vessel to pieces, or to force it alon«^ with them in
helpless boudaj^'e.
The Arctic navigators have given various names to these
jnovable shoals, which are the cause of so much delay and
danger. They are ice-henjs when they tower to a considerable
height above the waters, and icc-Jlelih when they have a vast
iKunzontal extension. A floe is a detached portion of a field:
'jKicJi-lrc, a large area of floes or smaller fragments closely
driven together so as to oppose a firm barrier to the jirogress
of a ship ; and drifi-ice, loose ice in motion, Imt not so flrnily
l)acked as to prevent a vessel from making her way thronii'li
its yielding masses.
The large ice-fields wliich the Avhaler encounters in Baffin's
Bay, or on the seas between Spitzbergeii and Greenland, con-
stitute one of the marvels of the deep. There is a solemn
grandeur in the slow majestic motion wath which they aiv
drifted by the cwTents to the south; and their enormous
masses, as mile after mile comes floating by, impress th''
spectator with the idea of a boundless extent and an irre-
sistible power. But, vast and mighty as they are, they aiv
unable to withstand the elements combined for their destruc-
tion, and their apparently triumphal march leads them onljl
to their ruin.
When they first descend from their northern stronghoLb.
the ice of which they are composed is of the average tlliclvne^^
of from ten to fifteen feet, and their surface is sometimes toler-
ably smooth and even, but in general it is covered with num-
berless ice-blocks or hummocks piled upon each other in will
confusion to a height of forty or fifty feet, the result et
repeated collisions befoi'e flakes and floes Avere soldered intu
fields. Before the end of June they are covered with smom.
sometimes six feet deep, which melting during the suniiiu'i
forms small ponds or lakes upon their surface.
Not seldom ice-fields are whirled about in rotatory motion, j
which causes their circumference to gyrate with a velocity of
several miles per hour. "When a field thus sweeping throuf^li I
the Avaters conies into collision with another Avhich niiiy
possibly be rev(»lving Avith equal rapidity in an opposite
direction- — when masses not seldom twenty or thirty miles in I
(liiiniefe
<M-etll<'l
Ill seeuri
A\lien ua
liii'lv (lai;
lie <lis(i!i
..rile' li>
]iel\Vee!i
iMlilt lUl
Some iia
1i;h1 lliei
<i\en'Ull
,. upon tin
T!u. ic
llle Wilte
lields. ha
the sen i
As (luv 1-
<M-eaii, si
zone, (les
lureing tl
sujunier
force of e
K'K-BKiKis A\i> ic[:-fii:lixs.
.'U
kMi til
10111 ill
tl
ICSl'
!iy iiiKi
lerill)lr
a vnst
I field:
rooTcss
) firiiilv
hroimli
fholds.
Licknoss
>S tollT-
1 num-
111 Avill i
'Slllt of
•od into
I SUdW. I
luiiiiuer
()
mot ion. I
city <i'
lirou^'li j
li iniiy
pposito
nik's ill I
(li;iiiit't»'i\ imd oncli wei<i'hiii,i;' iiiiiny millions of tons, clasli
l,.-vtlici-, iiitiitzination can hardly conceive a more appallin;4'
s.viir. The whalers at all times reqnire nnremittino- vio-ihuice
ti, siMiuv their safety, but scarcely in any situation so much as
avImmi uaviu-atin;^- amidst tliose tields, which are more particn-
Lirlv dangerous in fo^-yy weather, as their motions cannot then
he (list iiietly ()l>served. No wonder that since the establishment
..rtli • li-liery numbers of vessels have been crushed to liieces
l.riwveM two hehls in motion, for the stron^-est ship ever
bnill must needs be utterly unable to resist their power.
Sniiie have been uplifted and thrown upon the ice ; some have
hii.l llieii- hulls completely torn open ; and others have been
g (.\erru!i by the ice, and buried beneath the fragments piled
^5 u]iuii their wreck.
T!ie ice-ber^-s, which, as their name indicates, rise above
the Avater t(» a nnicli more c(tnsi<leral)le heiodit than the ice-
iielils, have a very ditferent orii^in. as they are not formed in
the sea itself, but by the o-laciers of the northern hiohhinds.
As our rivers are continually pouring their streams into the
ocean, so many of the glaciers or ice-rivers of the Arctic
zone, ilesceiiding to the water-edge, are slowly but constantly
■ lurcing themselves further and further into the sea. In the
siiiiiiiiei- st'ason, when the ice is particularly fragile, the
\\>i\-'' of cohesion is often overcome by the weigh': of tlie pro-
digious masses that overhang the sea or have been under-
mined by its Avaters ; and in the winter, when the air is
l)rol)ahly 10° or 50° below zero and the sea from 2S° to oO°
altuve, the unequal expansion of those parts (»f the mass
exposed to so great a ditference of temperature cannot fail to
l»iMduce tlie separation of large portions.
Most of these swimming glacier- fragments, or ice-bergs,
wliicli are met with by the whaler in the Northern Atlantic,
are lui'iaed on the mountainous west coast of (ireenland by
the large glaciers vrhich discharge tluMiiselves into the (lords
from Sinith''s Sound to Disco Bav, as here the sea is sutHcientlv
deep to tloat them away, in spite of the enormous magnitude
they fre(iueutly attain. As they drift along down Batlin's
bay and Davis's Strait, they not seldom run aground on some
shaHow shore, wher(>, bidding defiance' to the short summer,
thrv i're(|iiently remain lor many a year.
ess
32
Till': rOLAll WOULD.
Dr. ITnyos incasunul aii immonso iee-l)or<j,' wliicli Imd
strinided olf tlic little liiivljour of Tessuissak to tlic iiortli of
Melville Bay. The squiire Avail which faced towards his baso
of* measureiuent was iJI-") leet hi^-h and n fraction over tlnvo
quarters of a mile loii;^-. Bein^- almost square-sided ah(»ve tlic
sea, the same shape must have extended beneath it ; and since,
by measurements nunle two daysbi'fbre Hayes had discovered
that fresh-water ice floating' in salt Avater has above the surfiicc
to beloAV it the proportion of one to seven, this crystallised
mountain must have yone aj^TOund in a depth of nearly lialf-a-
mile. A rude estimate of its size, made on the spot, g'avo in
cubical contents about 27,000 millions of feet, and in Aveiylit
sometliino- like 2,000 millions of tons !
Captain Ross in his fii'st voya<>-e mentions another of
these wrecked berys, Avhicli Avas found to be 11 Ol) yards loni;',
!»()81) yards broad, and 51 feet hioh above the IcA'cl of the sen,
It AA'as aground in 01 fathoms, and its Avei<>ht Avas estimat(>d
by an officer of the 'Alexander' at 1,2!>2,:)I>7,(>7''» tons, (hi
ascendinpf the flat top of this ice-beri^' it Avas ftnind occupieil
by a hu<jf(' white bear, avIio justly deeming' ' discretion the best
part of valour,' sprang- into the sea before he could be fired iit,
The vast dimensions of the ice-bergs appear less astonish-
ing Avhen Ave consider that many of the glaciers or '^"-river?
from Avhicli they are dislodged are equal in size or volume ti'
the largest streams of continental Europe.
Thus one of the eiu'ht Maciers existing in the district et
Omenak in Greenland is no less than an English mile bmud,
and forms an ice-Avall rising 1(10 f(>et aboA'e the sea. Furtlu'v
to the north, Melville Bay and Whale Sound are the seat ei
vast ice-riA'crs. Here Tyndall glacier forms a coast line of io
over tAvo miles long, almost burying its face in the sea, Jiinl
carrying the eye along a broad and Avinding valley, up ste]'^
of ice of giant heiglit, until at length the slope loses itself i:
the iniknoAA'u ice-desert bej'ond. But grand abo\'e all is tli'
magnilicent Hiunboldt glacier, Avhich, connecting Clreeidunl
and Washington Land, forms a solid glassy Avail 800 let'
aboA'e the Avater-level, with an unknoAvn depth beloAvit, Avliil
its curved face extends full sixty miles in length from Ciij'
Agassiz to Cape Forbes. In the temperate zone it Avould be oiu' j
of the miu'htiest rivers of the earth ; here, in the frozen soli-
tlldi'.s (
\\:ih'|-.s,
As 1
1 1 MCI illy
iMIISSi'S
Ilia]
.1 iiivk :
llnis.' Ill
iisii;(| i;,
d'lWII ((I
llh'V cxll
li:l\i' !)('(
A mm
iiiii^'iiitici
t Ik 'sc en
when e](
Cololll'S (.)
fli.iiiliiig
teiiijo' in
t1i>(;iiiee
Keiiver at
vidi itiiiii
exhibited
inilik,. thi
|1^ height
y^^i'' Sllll, !
^ikI il seci
^le. lilt
|lii'l iiothiij
Oi iiildiif I
•(fl" iec (»v(
]|ilMle,l (ht
'Willl^jKirciK
>'";nl stiva
|l'' h,.\vil,.
^"Usain.1 ill
i(i:-i;i:ii<is i.v .MinxKiiiT .sl'.vsiiixh.
33
■^w
34
THE rOLAK WOULD.
fioatirio* masses, the water bein;:,' cliscliai'f]fe(l from lakes of
melted snow and ice whieli reposed in quietude far up in the
valleys separating- the hi^h iey hills of their upper surface.
From other ber<^s larg-e pieces were now and then detached,
plim^ino- down into the water with deafenino- noise, Avhilc
the slow movinjj;- swell of the ocean resounded through theii'
broken archways.'
A similar gorgeous spectacle was witnessed by Dr. Kane
in Melville Bay. The midnight sun came out over a great
berg, kindling vari<msly-coloured tires on every part of its
surface, and making the ice around the ship one great re-
splendency of gemwork, blazing carbuncles and rubies, and
nu>lten gold.
In the night the ice-bergs are readily distinguished even at
a distance by their natural elfulgence, and in foggy weathei'
by a j»ecidiar blackness in the atmosphere. As they are Udt
unfrequently drifted by the Greenland Stream considerably t^
the soiith of Newfoundland, sometimes even as far as the for-
tieth or thirty-ninth degree of latitude (May 18 11, June 18 12),
ships siiiling through the north-w(^stern Atlantic require to
l»e always on their guard against them. The ill-fated ' Presi-
<lent,' one of our lirst ocean-steamers, which was lost on its
way to New York, without leaving a trace behind, is supposed
to have been sunk by a collision with an ice-berg, and no
doubt nniny a gallant bark has either foundered in the night,
or been luirled bv tlie storm a<i,'aiust these floating' rocks.
But though often dangerous neighbours, the bergs occa-
sionally prove useful auxiliaries to the mariner. From their
greater bulk lying below th(3 water-line, they are either
drifted along by the under-current against the wind, or from
their vast dimensions are not perceptibly influenced even bv
the strongest gale, but, on the contrary, have the appearami Ml
of moving to windward, because every other kind of ice
is drifted rapidly past them. Thus in strong adverse winds,
their broad masses, fronting the storm like bulwarks, not
seldom afford protection to ships mooring under their lee.
Anchoring to a berg is, however, not always iinattencloil
with danger, particularly when the summer is far advanced. |
or in a lower latitude, as all ice becomes exceedingly frayilt
when acted on by the sun or by a temperate atmo.sphere.
TIh-
ruins, (
Tims
wciv at
lifw a ]
stnu-k,
ilii'i'ctio
\\as |)()S;
the Iin<>'(
L! to
L'osi-
1 its
( )seil
(1 no
iii'lit.
u (.*(' li-
lt Uoir
■itliev
tVoin
11 by
auec
[f ici'
Iniicls
not
tnl.
inci
LIBS
l\ I
V 1.
A.\(llOi:iN(i TO ICIv-BKltdS
^L^Tio:,..L ^!
t < .
« lb K
'I'Ih- hlow ol'iiu axe then sonict iiiit's siillices to reiul an iec-
•;ini(lt'r, and t<) biii'v tlio i-aivless .seaman beneath its
r t(» liiiil liini into tin; yawniny cliasin
I'uiiis. (I
Thus 8e(»resl)y ndates the a<Tventure of two sailors who
wriv iitt('ni|4iii;4' to lix an anchor to a her^'. The_\ he<^-aii to
hew a h(tle into the ice, hut .scarcely liad the tirst blow been
struck, when sinldeiily the iiniuense mass split from top to
l.uttdin and fell asuinh'!-, tJie two halves falling- in contrary
(liii'ctiniis with a i>rodiii'i(»ns crash. One of the sailors, who
v\;is possessed of ^reat presence of mind, iinmediat(dy scaled
the liu^e frao-inent on which he Avas standin;^-, and remained
lucidnu' to and fro on its snininit until its eqiulibrium Avas
restored; init his companion, fallino- between the masses,
would most likely have been crnshed to pieces if the current
ciiis.'d l»y their motion had not swept him within reach of
llif boat lliat was Avaitiiij^' tor llu'in.
l'r('(jui'iitly lar«^'e pieces detach themselves spontaneously
111 mi ail ict'-boru" and fall into the sea with a tremendous noise.
When tliis circumstance, called ' calvini^',' takes place, the
icc-hcri;' lost
.1
'S its equilibrium, sometimes turns on one side,
•ted.
aiul IS oi'casionaliy invei
Di'. Haves witnessed the crumbling' of an immense bery,
rcs'iiiblini;' in its <>'eneral appeai'auce the Jiritisli House of
I'avliameiit. First one lotty towiT came tumblino' into the
watt'r, startiiif)' from its surface an immense tlock of <4ulls ;
tlicii another followed; and at leiiLi'th, after five hours of roll-
ing- and crashing', ihere remained of this s[)lendid mass of con-
t^vlatiou not a fra<ji,'ment that rose fifty feet aliove the water.
< )ne of the most remarkable ])henoinena of the Polar Sea
is tlie ice-blink, or retlection of the ice a<>'ainst the skv. A
sti'i|ic of li-4'ht, similar to the early dawn of niorninu', but
without its redness, appears above the hori/(»n, and traces a
COllIp
hcvoni
lote at'-rial mi]) of the ice to a distance of many miles
id the ordinary reach of vision. To the experienced
uiviL^ator the 'blink' is frequently of the o-reatest u.se,
lis it not only points out the vicinity v>f the drift-ice, but
iiidicates its mitnre, whether comjiact or h)ose, ccuitinuous
• a- oi»eu. Thus Scoresby relates that on the 7th of June,
;-ilt'^| b^-L he saw so distinct an ice-blink, that as far as twenty
'1' thirtv miles all round the horizon he was able to a.scer-
36
TIIK VOLXU WOULD.
tain the lio-nro iind probable extent of each ico-fieltl. Tlif
pai'kod ieo was distinf^'uished from the lar<4'er (ieltls by a
more o])scnro and yellow colour; while each water-lane or
open passaj^e was indicated by a deep blue stripe or patch.
By this means he was enabled to lind his way out of the vast
masses of ice in which he had been detained for several
days, and to emer^-e into the open sea.
The tendency of the pack-ice to separate in calm weather.
so tliat one nii^'ht almost be tempted to believe in a mutual
i*e[)ulHive power of the individual blocks, is likewise favour-
able to the Arctic navij^-ator. The perpetual daylight of
suuimer is another advanta|>"e, but unfortunately the sun is
too often veiled by dense mists which frequently obscure the
air for AVeeks to<^'ether, ])articularly in July. These fo^-s,
which are a ^reat impediment to the whaler's operations,
have a very depressing* influence upon the spirits ; and as
they are attended Avitli a low temperature, Avhicli even at
noon does not rise much above freezinj^-point, the dau'p
cold is also physically extremely unpleasant.
At other times the sun sweeps two or three times round
the Pole without being' for a moment obscured by a cloud,
and then the transparency of the air is such that objects
the most remote may be seen perfectly distinct and clear.
A ship's top gallant mast, at the distance of five or six
leagues, may be discerned when just appearing above tlio
hori/on with a common perspective-glass; and the summits
of mountains are visible at the distance of from sixty to ii
hundred miles.
On sucli sunny days, the strong contrasts of light aiul
shade between the glistening snow and the dark protruding;
rocks produce a remarkable deception in the apparent dis-
tance of the land, ahmg a steep mountainous coast. Whon
at the distance of twenty miles from Spitsbergen, for instance,
it would be easy to induce even a judicious stranger t(i
undertake a passage in a boat to the shore, from a beliof
that he was within a league of the land. At this distance
the portions of rock and patches of snow, as well as the
contour of the ditferent hills, are as distinctly marked its
similar objects in many other countries, not having snew
al)out them, would be at a fourth or a fifth part of tlie
distance.
ATMOSniHIIIC KFFIXJTS.
37
leiiv.
six
tin-
units
to a
aiul
iclini;'
ais-
Vlion
•aiu't\
I- to
oliof
lUK'O
the
'{\ as
SHOW
the
Xulliiny Clin l>o iiiovo wcnidcrtul tlimi tlic pliciioinoiiii of
tilt' at iiios|ilit'r(' (Ifpciidciit on ivfl('('ti(»n iind rdViH-iion, wliicli
;iri' tVt'(|iit'iitlv observed \u tlio Arctic seas, particularly at
I lie loiinuencenieut or a[>proacli of easterly winds. They
aie probalily occasioned by llie commixture, near the surface
nf {lie land or sea, of tw(_> streams of air of dilferent tempera-
tures, so as to occasion an irres^'ular di'position of imperfectly
(•(iiidensed vapour, which when passing- the ver^-e of the
horizon apparently raises the objects there situated 1o a
considerable distanc(> above it, or extends their hei«^'ht l)e-
voiid their natural dimeurjions. Ice, land, ships, boats, and
otjicr ol»jects, when tlius en]ar<4ed and elevati'd, are said to
loom. The lower part of loomin;j;' o]>jects are sometinu'S con-
nected with the horizon l)y an a|iparent iibrous or cohunnar
extension of their parts; at other times they appear to be
fjuito lifted into the air, avoid space behii>' seen l)etween them
and till' h(»ri/on.
A most remarkaV)le delusion of this Idnd Avas oltserved by
S((.i'csl)y while sailin*;' through the open ice, far fnun land.
Suddenly an immense amphitheatre enclosed l)y hio-h walls
of liiisaltic ice, so lilce natural I'oclc as to (h'ceive one (»!' hiM
most expi'rienced olHcers, rose around the ship. Sometimes
the refraction produced on all sides a sijnilar effect, l)ut
still more iVequently reniarkalde contrasts. Sin<4'le ice-bloclcs
fX[iaiided into architectural tij^ures of an extraordinary
licio-lit, and sometimes the distant, deeply indented ice-border
liioI<eil like a number of toAVcrs or niinarets, or like a deiise
fiir<'st of naked ti'ccs. Scarcely had an ol)ject acquired a
lli■^tilu•t forni, wlien it bef>'an to dissolve into another.
It is Avell known that similar causes produce similar ef-
fects in the warmer reu'ions of the eartli. In the midst of the
tropical ocean, tlio mariner sees verdant islands rise from
tlie waters, and in the treeless desert fantastic palm-gTovcB
wave their fronds, as if in mockery of the thirsty caravan.
When we consider the intense cold which rei^-ns durin;;' tlu^
greatest part of the year in the Arctic ree-ions, we mij^'ht
aafurally expect to find the whole of the Polar Sea covered,
•hu'in^' the Avinter at least., Avitli one solid unbroken sheet of
i' c. JUit experience teaches us that this is by no meajis
ilie ease ; for the currents, the tides, the winds, and the sw-elj
"i a turbulent ocean are ini^'hty causes of dis]'uption, or
38
TFIK I'OLAIt Woill.I).
stnai^ iiiij)LMliineiits to (.'oiiy-cliitioii. IJotli riirutnmiit <!(•
Haven and Sir Francis JM'( 'liiitock"^' wt're helplessly ciirried
iilon^', in tlie dei»tli of winter, l)y Mie ])iu-k-ice in Lancaster
Soinul and liiiilin's Bay. A berjj,- impelled by ti, strong'
vnider-cnrrent rips open an ice-iield as if it were a tliiii
sheet of u-Jass ; and in channels, or on coasts where the tides
rise to a considerM,ble hei^-lit, their liux and reflnx is continu-
ally openin<^' crevices and lanes in the iee which covers ilie
waters. That even in the hij^hest hititndes the sea does not
close except when at rest, was fully ex])erienced by Dr.
Hayes (hu'injjf liis vvinterino- at Port Foulke ; for at all times,
even wlien the temperature of the air was below the free/in^--
[)oint of mercury, he could hear from llio deck of his schooner
the roar of the beaiinn- waves. Froiu all these causes there
has at no point within the Arctic circh> been found a firm
ice-belt extendinf^'-, either in winter or in summer, more tlian
from fifty to a hundred miles from land. And even in ilio
narrow channels s(^paratinL>' tlie islands of th(^ Parry Archi-
pela<4'o, or at the mouth of Snuth Sound, the w^aters will not
freeze over, except when sheltert.'d b}' the land, or when an
ice-pack, accumulated by long contiinuince of Avinds from
<me quarter, affords the same protection.
But the constant motion of the Polar Sea, wherever it
expands to a considerable breadth, would be insufficient to
prevent its total congelation, if it were not assisted by other
physical causes. A magnificent system of currents is con-
tinually displacing the waters of the ocean, and forcing the
warm floods of the tropical regions to w^ander to the Pole,
while the cold streams of the frigid zone are as constantly
migrating towards the equator. Thus we see the Gulf
Stream flowing througli the broad gateway east of Spitz- 1
bergen, and forcing out a return current of cold water to tlio §
west of Spitzbergen, and through Davis' Strait.
The comparatively warm floods which, in consequence of
this great law of circulation, come pouring into the Arctic
Seas naturally recpiire some time before they are suili-
ciently chilled to be converted into ice ; and as sea-water li;is
its maximum of density, or, in other words, is heaviest ii
few degrees above the freezing-point of water, and then
* Sc.. Cliaiit.r XXXII.
lOXTKXT OF ICK
39
ii.'n>ssiirily sinks, tlio whole doptli ot'tlio son, iimsi of course
Ix' ('(M»lc(l (l<»\vii to that tcnipfi'iittire before freeziuy- eiiti
tiike pliire. lee beiu^' a bad eoii(hicior of heat, likewise
limits I lie j»rocess of eon;^elatioii ; for iifter iittiiinin^ a thick-
II. 'ss of ten or tifteuii feet, its ^^rou'th is very slow, iiiid
lirobiii^ly even ceases altoj^'ctlier ; for uht'ii floatin<^' lieMs, or
Hoes, are fomul of a <j;'ri'ater thii-kness, this increase is due
to till' snow tliat falls upon their surface, or to the accumu-
lation of hunniiocks caused by their collision.
Thus, by the combined influence of these various physical
a'_;'eucies, l)ounds have been set to the couj^vlatiou of the
Polar waters. VVere it otherwise the Arctic lands would
liave bicn mere uninhabitable wastes; for the existence of
!lie seals, the walrus, and the whale depends upon their
limlin^' some oi)cn water at every season of the year ; and
(Itpi-ivcd <if this res(»urce, all the Ks(|uimaux, whose varions
tribes fringe the coasts in the hig-hest latitudes hitherto
(lis((.v('i'('(l, would p<'rish in a sing'le winter.
If the Arctic glaciers did not dischai'ge their bergs into
llic sea, ur if no currents convoyed the ice-Hoes of the north
into lower latitudes, ice would be constantly accumulating
ill the Polar world, and, destroying the balance of nature,
would ultimately endangt'r the existence of man over the
whole surface of the ••'lobe.
Toll
The l^inback Whale.
vVhniois firuoiif' Icf-iii i' i^.
(^HAITIIIJ IV.
A I ! (' 'I' T f ' jM a 1! ) X K A M :\I A I , S .
T'lliiiloiisiicss of tlio Arcti,' S( as— 'I'll.' Cniiil.'iiiil AVlialr The I'lii Wliali-
'I'll.' Narwlial '\'\n- l!.li|..a. <ii' While I )..li.liili — The lllafk l»ol|iliili IIIswIm.!.-
sale Ma>>acT(' (ni llic l^'arrni' l>laiiils TIh' Ori' i.r ( 1 raiiiiiii> 'I'lii' ScaN '\'y
\\':\\vn^ — Jls acute Smell — llistin'v ofa yiiiin- Waliai^ — I'areiitiil Alleetioii -Tin'
I'lilar Hear — His SaM-aeity — Hilieniatidii nl'llie She-i!ear — St a IJii'ds.
rnjIF] vast innllitudt's of iuiliuiitcd boinj^'s wLic-li people tin
T
Polar Sens I'onu a remarkable eoiitrast to the nalveclm'>
of tlieir blealc and desolate sbores. The colder siirface-Avatois i
almost perpetually exposeil to a chilly air, and irecpieiitly
covered, even in summer, Avith lloatini^- iee, are indeed an-
favourable to the development of or^'ainc life ; but this advcrso |
inlluence is modified by the higher temperature which cd
stantly prevails at a oreater depth; for, contrary to wliatl
takes place in th(} equatorial seas, avc find in the Polar OecMii
an increase of temperature from the surface down^vards, in
consequenci' of the warmer nnder-currents, llowinin' from flu
south northwards, and passing- beneath the cold waters <'i|
the sui»t'rfi(*ial Arctic current.
riil.AK lli;Ali> AMI SKAI.~.
^B
I.IFi: IN THK ARCTIC SKA.
41
Tims the severity <•!' ilie Pohir wiiiier roiiiiiiiis inifclt at ii
i^iciilei' (le|itli t'l' ihr sea, wliere myviiids <»f creiiiures find a
sei'iire retreat a^-aiiist tlie I'ntst, and wlieiico ilit'y ciiiev^'e
diu'iii"" the loiiLi' snimner's dav, eillier to line tho shores ur to
;isceiid the ])road rivers ol' Hk' Aretie world. iJetween the
|iarallels ol" 71 and so' Scoreshy observed that tho colour
of ihe Greenland sea varies from tlie purest ultramarine to
olive i^reeii, and IVoni crystalline transparency to striking' o])a-
citv— appearances Avhicli are not transit(»ry, but permanent.
This ^Teen semi-opaque wat(>r, Avlioso position varies Avitli the
cerrents, (tften tbrmin<4- isolated stripes, and sometimes spread-
ing' over two or three (h'^'rees of latitude, mainly (^nves its sin-
L^'ular as[)ect to small medusie and nudibranchiate molluscs.
It is calcidated to form <aie-fourtli part of the surface of the
sea between the above-mentioned parallels, so that many
tliousands of square miles are al)Solutoly teeminf>' with life.
On the coast of (ireenland, where the waters are so ex-
(•(>edin<;'ly clear that the bottom and every object upon it are
plaiidy visible even at a. depth of ei^■hty fathoms, the ground
is seen covered with nin'antie tan;4'les, which toi^vther with
the animal world, circulating^" aniouLi,- their fronds, remind
the spectator of the coral-reefs of the tropical ocean. Nul-
li[)ores, nnissels, ah-yonians, sertularians, ascidians, and u
variety of other sessile animals, incrust every stone or lill
vwvy hollow or crevice of the rochy j.;round. A dead seal or
tisli thi'own into the sea is soon converted into a skeleton by
liie njvriads of small crustaceans which infest these northern
waters, and, lil^e the ants in the e(jualorial forests, perform
the part of scavenj^'ers of the deep.
Thus we iind an exuberance of life, in its smaller and
smallest forms, peoplin;^' the Arctic waters, and atfordinj^*
nourishment to a varic^ty of stran^'o and bulky creatures —
cetaceans, walruses, and seals — which annually attract thou-
sands of adventurous seamen to the Icy Ocean.
Of these sea-nuunmalians, the most inqiortant to civilised
nian is undoubtedly the Oreeidand whale {Ihihi mi nni^lii'i his),
or smooth-back, thus called from its havinj^- no dorsal fin.
I'ornierly these whales were harpocaied in considerable num-
hers in the Icelandic waters, or in the tiords of Spit/berLj'eii
;iiid Danish (Ireenland; then Davis' Straits became the
42
TIIK I'Or.AR WORLD.
favourite fishinn'-jrvonnds ; and more recently the inlets jiiid
Viivions oliiinnels to tlie east of Baitin's Bay have been iii-
v;i(l('(l ; Avhile, on the opposite side of America, seveviil
lmii(lr<'ds of whalers penetrate every year thronjj^h Berini^'s
Striiits into the Icy Sea beyond, where previously they lived
iind multiplied, unmolested excei)t by the Escpiimaux.
More fortunate than the smooth-back, the rorquals or fiii-
whales (lidlfmnjiterd hoops, muscnins, iilii/sfilis, and rostrotnx]
still remain in their ancient seats, from which they are not
likely to be dislod^-ed, as the ag'ility of their movements makes
their capture more dilhcult and dang'erou'^' ; while at tlic
same time the small (pmutity of their fat and the shortness
of their baleen render it far less rennmeratiA'e. They are (if
a more slender forui of body, and Avith a more pointeil
uui//le tlian the Greenland whale ; and while the laltev
attains a leii;^th of only sixty feet, the BolanopUra ho<iii.<
<»'rows to the vast leng'th of 100 feet and more. There is
also a difi'erence in their food, for the Greenland whale
chiefl}' feeds upon the minute animals that crowd the olive-
coloured waters above described, or on the hosts of little
pteropods that are found in many parts of the Arctic seas,
while the rorquals frequently accompany the herring'-shoals
and carry death and destru<.'tion into their ranks.
The seas of Novaja Zemlya, Spitzbergen, aud Greenland
are the domain of the narwhal or sea-unicorn, a cetacean
([uite as strange, but not so fabulous as the terrestrial aninnil
which hgures in the arms of England. The use of the enor-
mous spirally wound tusk projecting from its upper jaw, and
tVonnvhich it derives its i)opular name, has not yet been clearh
ascertained, some holding it to be an instrument of defence,
Avhile others suppose it to be only an ornament or mark o\'
the superior dignity of the sex to which it has been awardetl.
Among the inimerous dolphins which people the Arctic
and Subarctic Seas, the l)eluga (Z)f7y>/<m?(.s /(?«c'«.s), improperly
called the white whale, is one of the most interesting. Wlit'ii
yonng it has a brown colour, which gradually changes into ;i
perfect white. It attains a length of from twelve to twenty
feet, has no dorsal tin, a strong tail three feet broad, and ii
round head with a broad truncated snout. Beyond '"iii"
of latitude it is ire(piently seen in large shoals, particularly
>'^.
lieiir t III
I'ivel'S, \|
|iin'suit
lllr (l;!ld-,
cent sjM.
eclltlMSi
ari'ow-l
Til.'
eollliniill
and lietw
iiKikes e-
: weiity-t'
'; 'le skill
; .'■•I -111111!:
i p'l:, ail
!'.;■(■(> i>r
The Cii
t'eiil ill (
I . k ^et^
.i"]>;il I'm
t '.](' iiecto
^'l tluit, ai
i-- i):tel'i((
eui ''leiii !\
^lVM-;|j|. ;
several (d
ick of s!
in Shetla
fre([iu>ntl_\
herds hiM
aiid the
ea[itun' i:
sllMlll of (
the foast
phlci^'mati
itei'^lilunn
semi nuni
VetlViit (if
tewards tl
illid (dosei
TIIK iLACK DOI.IMII.V.
V.l
iMur t!i«' (>stiiiirit's ol' tlio larj^'O Silx'vian aiid North Ainoricaii
i ;\('is, wliirli it nt'ten ii.seeu<ls to a oonsicU'Viiblo (listaiice in
i-ursiiit (if the salmon. A tnjop of bdiiy-as diviiif^" out of
ill.' ihirk waves eniic Arctic Sea, is i^aid to atford ii ina^-iiifi-
( .'lit sjirctaclc. Their white cohmr appears dazzling', from tlie
( niitr.ist of the sombre background, as tliey dart about Avith
;i!T'iw-Iii<e velocity.
Til-' liliicl': dolpliin {Clhilia'plmhoi (jlnhinjis) is liktnvise very
...!iiiiti-ii in the Arctic Seas, lioth beyond Bering's Straits
,'iii(l lictween Greenland and 8i)it/berg-en, whence it frequently
,i!;ilo'S excursions to the south. Tt grows to the length of
;\v.iifv-tbnr feet, and is about ten feet in circumference.
'i iic skill, like tliat (»f the doljiliin tribe in g'eneral, is smooth,
resiMiibliiiu' oiled silk: tlie colour a l)luish black on tlie
h;ick, and ge!ie]'>;lly whitish on the belly; the blubber is
three or lour iiu-hes thick.
The fiill-growii have generally twenty-two or twenty-four
teeth in each jaw ; and when the mouth is shut, tlu' teeth
lock Ix'tween one another, lilce the teeth of a trap. The
iior.-al lin is al)out fifteeu inches high, the tail five feetbroa<l,
the [sectoral tins are as many, haig and comparatively narrow ;
so that, armeil with smdi ('xcellent paddles, the black dol[)hiu
is inferior to none of his relatives in swiftness. (Jf an
einiricntly social disi)osition, thes(^ dolphins sometimes con-
gregate ill herds of many hundreds, under the guidance of
several (tld experienced ni;iles, whom the rest follow lilc(> a
iluck of sheeji — a. property from which the animal is calle<l
ill Shetland the 'caTng whale.' No cetacean stran<ls nioi-e
fi'e(|ucutly than the Idack doliihin, and occasionally large
iienls have beeu driven on the shores of Iceland, Norway,
ami the Orkney, Shetland and Faeroe islands, wlier<^ their
capture is hailed as a godsend. The intelligence that a
slieal of ca'ing whales or grinds has been seen approaching
the coast, creates great excitement among the otherwise
phlegmatic inh-abitants of the Faeroe Islands. The whole
neighbourhood, (»1(1 and young, is instantly in motion, and
seiiii nmneriais boats shoot otl' from shore to intercejit the
rc1iv;it of the dol[»hins. Slowly and steadily they are driven
tewards the coast ; the phalanx of their enemies draws closer
;ii"l chisi'r together: terrified bv stones and blows. tluM' run
■B fWi
i
44
TIIH Pol.AU WdUl.l).
nslioiY', iiixl H(^ t<'iispiiiij,- iis IIk' flood i-('C(m1<'s. Tlion Ix'i^iih
flic work of (IcaUi, iiiiiid the loud sliouls of llic ('xeciitioiiciv
iiiid the I'lirions spliisliiiii4'.s of Iho victiiiis. In this iiiiiiiini
iiiovo tliiiii SOO <4-viiid3 woro luassjicred oil Aii^mst 1(>, 177ri;
iiiid duriiiL;' the lour .suuiiiicr months that Laiij;l>yo sojourii((l
on the isJaiids in lsl7, (»2-'! were driven (mi sliore, and servti]
to pay one-halt' of the iini»orted eovn. But, on the (»1h(i
ha,n«l, many years fre(|uently pass witliout yieldin;L4' onesinnl.
black whale to the tender mercies of tlie islanders.
The ferocious ore or ^'ranipus {l)tlj>liiinif< orca) is the tipi
of the Arctic Seas. IJlaclc ahove, white beneath, it is (li>-
tinynished by its l;ir;^-e dorsal tin, Avhich curves backward-
towards the tail, and rises to the height of two feet or nioir,
Measurinn' no less than twenty-live feet in lent'th andtwelvi'
or thirteen in u'irth, of a ct)urai4e ecpial to its strength, ami
armed with formidable teeth, thirty in each jaw, the grampu>
is the dread of the seals, whom it overtakes in spite of tlioir
rapid tlight ; and the whale himself would consider it as his
most formi(hible enemy, were it not for the persecutions n!
man. The grampus generally ploughs the seas in sniall tree]-
of four or five, following each other in close single files aii'!
alternately disappearing and rising so as to resemble tin
undulatory motions of one hirge serpentiform animal.
The family of the seals has also numerous and miglitv
representatives in the Arctic Avaters. In the sea <»f Beiiii;:
we meet Avith the fi^rmi(hible sea-lion and tlie valuable si;;-
bear, Avhile the harp-seal, the bearded seal, and the hisjiil
seals [PIkh'h (invnlnudica, harhntn, Idapiihi), spreading fVdii'
the Tarry Islands to Novaja Zeml^a, y""ldthe tribute of tliiir
flesh to numerous Avihl tribes, and thai of their skins to tli<
European hunter.
Few Arctic animals are more valuable to man, or more IV' -
(juently mentioned in Polar voyages than the walrus or ni<>i-
{'rrichcchiis r<isi)i(inis)^ which, though allied to the seals, ditli i-
greatly from them by the dev(dopment of the canines of lli-
upper jaw, which form two enormous tusks projecting down-
wards to the length of two feet. The niors(> is (Use of lli
largest quadrupeds existing, as it attains a length of twcn'.'
feet, and a weight of from fifteen hundred to two thoitsiiii :
pounds. In uiieouthness ol" forui it surpasses even the Un-
gainly hip[iopofainus. It has a small heail with a i-i'markaWy
|b;iiii(iiit, ai
\:ilnis wh,
\ li<'ii(.v(.'r
TIIR WALTiUS.
45
(>r ill'
(IdAVll-
nisam:
lie nil-
Ii!( k ii)'!" r lip.('nvovO(lwit]ilaryop<>lliici<lwliiskortJOvbrislk's;
ill-' neck is tliick and ishovt ; tlio uakod i^roy or rod-brown
skill haiiL'S loosL'ly on the ponderous and olonyated trunk ; and
i1m' slmrt ti'i't torniinate in broad fin-liko paddles, rcsoniblinj^
l;iiu'.' ill-tUshioned Haps of k'atlier. Its nun'enieiits tm land
arc fxtrcniely slow and awkward, reseniblin<j;; those of a liuj^v
lalcipillar, but in the -water it has all the activity of the seals,
nr (Veil surpasses them in speed.
(iicyarious, like the seals and many of the dolphins, the
wa liases love to lie on the ice or <,>n the sand-banks, closely
liijililkd toi4"etlier. On the spot where a walrus lands, others
ail' Muv to follow; and when the tirst comers block the shore,
ilms.' which arrive later, instead of landinj^ on a free spot
I lilt lit r on, i»refer giving their friends who are in the way a
l;vii1|(' push with their tusks, so as to induce them to make
riHiui.
'liiimrous and almost helpless on land, Avhere, in spite of
ii- rniiiiidiible tusks, it falls an easy jnvy to the attacks of
mail, t lie walrus evinces a j^-reater dej^'ree of courage in the
uaiii', wlicrc it is able t(.) make a better use of the strength
and wcaiMuis l>estowed upon it by nature. Many instances
ale known where walruses, which never attack but Avheu
I r 'Vokcd, liave turned upon their assailants, or have even
a-M'nil)lc(i from a distance to assist a woumled conu'ade.
liikc tlio seals, the walrus is easily tamed, and of a most.
iiirtttioiiate temper. This was shown in a remarkable man-
ii'T 1>\ a youni'' walrus brou<>'ht alive from Archanuel to St.
I'riershurg in 182!). Its keeper, Madame Denneliecq, having
1 iiilt.'il it with the greatest care, the grateful animal expressed
i'-^ hl.Msure Avhenever she came near it by an atfectionatc
i-iiiiit. It not only followed her with its eyes, but was never
k I'liii'V than when allowed to lay its head in her la}>. The
1' iMliiiess was n'eiprocal, and Madame Deunebecq used to
1 ilk ol'lier walrus with the same warmth of affection as if it
I I'l liceii a pet lap-dog.
Niat parental love should be highly developed in animals
I'lus susceptible of friendship may easily be imagined. Mr.
'iiiiniit, an Ilnglish gi'utk'man \vliom the love of sport led a
;!■ w years since to Spitsbergen, relates the case of a woinided
"^^ alius who lield a very young calf under her right arm.
|^\ liciicver ihe harpoon was raised against it, the mother
46
TIIK roLAU WORLD,
carefully shicMcd it witli her ov.'ii body. The eouiit(Mii)ii(v
of this poor iiiiiiiial was never to be for^^-otten : that <ii* lln
( alf exi)ressive of abjeet terror, and yet of such a boun(lK»
c<»uii<lenco in its mother's power of protecting' it, as it swam
ahm^' nndei- her winj^-, and the old cow's face showinj^' siidi
reckless defiance for all tliat could be done to heiself, ;uu\
yet such terrilde anxiety as to the safety of her calf. Tlii>
parental ail'ection is shamefully misused by man, for it is n
CO
nnn(»n artili<*e of the Avalrus liunters to catch a V(
nui-'
animal and mak(! it !>-runt, in order to attract a herd.
The walrus is coniined to the coasts of the Arctic reo'ic
Ills
iiwav
unless Avlien drift-ice, or some fither accident, carries it
into the o])en sea. Its chief resorts are Spitzl)er^'en, Nov
Zemlva. North (Ireenland, the sliores of Hudson's and IJatiii
bays
U'l
md on
tl
le
opp
OS
ih
si<
le of the Polar Ocean, tl
0(ii'.
coasts of Eerinj^'s Sea, and to the north of JJeriny-'s Strait-
the American and Asiatic shores from Point Barrow to Ca]'
North. It lias nowhere been found on the coasts oi Sil)i'i'i;i
from the mouth ol' the Jenisei to the last-mentioned jiin-
montorv, and <»n those of America from Point J}arr(»w V
Lancaster Sound ; so that it inhabits two distinct re^'ioiis,
se[)arated from each other by vast extents of coast. Its t
seems to consist ]»rincipally of marine^ plants and shell-lisl
thouL«'h Scoresby relates that he found the remains of iisi!o>
or even of seals, in its stouiach.
As the Polar bear is frequently found above a hiuidri'i
miles from tlie nearest land, upon loose ice steadily drifting' |
into the M-a, it seems but fair to assij^'ii liim a plact.' aiiiniii;
the marine animals of the Arctic /one. He lunits by scent.
1101
and is constantly ruiiuin;.;' across and aL»';',inst the wind wliicli
prevails fnaii the northward, so that the same instinct avI
dii'ects his search for l>rey also serves the imjjortant purpo-
lintr him in the direction of the land and more selr
His favouriti' food is the seal, which he suritrisc
<»t Li'UU
ice
crouchiny' doAvn witli his fore ])aws doulded undi'rneath, ami
pushin<4' himself noiselessly forward Avith his hinder K'i;'>
until within a few yards, when he s])rin;;'s upon his victim
whether in the Avater ov njion the ice. II
e can SAVim
at tlie
rate of three iiiiK's an hour, and can dive to a considerab!'.'
distance, ^riiout^'h he attacks nran Avlien huno-ry, Avounded.
or ])roV(»lce(l, lie Avill not injure him Avheii food more to li'-
THE I'OLAU liKAU.
iinlreil
•il'tiiiL'
scent.
\vlui'!i
wliioli I
•(■ st)liil
i-]n'isc5|
li, \w\\
'V leu's 1
victim I
ill tliel
Iiuiult'il.
t(. li'
likinu' is ill liiind. Sir rruncis M'Clintock rolalos iin iiiicedole
(.1 it iiiilivc of Uporuiivik who was oul one diivk wiiiicr's diiy
visiliiiu" his si'iil-iiots. Ho found a seal eiitinic;'led, and whilst
IviiirJiuL;- down over it upon the iee to ^-et it clear, he received
ii sliiji on the back — from his companion iis he supposed ; but
;i ^rcdiid and hoiivier blow made him look smartly round.
He was horror-stricken to see a peculiarly f>Tim old beiir
iiistiiid of his comrade. Without taking- further notice of
the iiiiin. Bruin tore the sciil out of the net, and be^'iin his
sn]i]>ci\ lie was not interrupted, nor did tli<' niiin wtiit to
Mc till" iiiciil finished, fearinu* no doul)t that liis uninvited
iiiid uiiccriMiionious <^Miesl mio-ht keep a corner for him.
Many instances have been observed of the peculiar sii<4'aeiry
ot the J*(tlar bciir. Scoresby relates that the ciqitain of ii
AvlKilcr, beinof anxious to procun^ a beiir without woundin<4'
Ihc skill, made trial of the stralii^vm of liiyin<4' th<^ noose of
a ro|K' in the snow, and plii('in<j;" !i piece of /i-/v;/r/, or whale's
I'iii'ciisc, williin it. A beiir, ranL^'inm' the neiyhbourin^^' ice,
was siuiu entice(I to the spot. Approaching' the biiit, he
sci/.i'd it ill bis mouth ; but his foot at the same momeiil, bv
il liT
A (I
)se
f the ropt', l)eing enliino-led in the noose, he pushed
il ((If willi the iidjoining p;iw, iind deliberately retin-d.
Alter liiiviiiL;" eiilen the piece he carried a wa_\ with him, be
rriuriicil. The noose, with inutther piece of kreng", being
tlicii r('|ilii(ed, he pushed the ro})e aside, and again walke<l
triiiiiiphiiiilly olf with the kreiig. A third time the not
\\;is liiid. iind this time the ro[ie AViis buried in the snow, and
till' hail laid in a deep holi^ dug in the centre. But liriiin,
utter siiiitHng about the phu-e fur ii f 'w minutes, scriipcil the
siiuw away with his ]>;i\v, threw tlie rope iiside, and escaped
niiliiM't with liis ]iri/.e.
The she bear is taught by a wonderful instinct to surlier
111 r \fiuiig under the snow. Towards the month of Dcccni-
h'l- she retrciits lo the side of a rock, where, by dint of scniping
initl iiUowing the snow to fall upon her, she forms a cell in
which to reside during the winter. There is no fear tluitshe
islioiiM |>e stitied for wtint of air, for the warmth of her brciith
iilwiiys kee[)s a sniiiU pass.ige opi'ii, and the sn.ow, instead of
tunning il thick unil'orm sheet, is broken by ii little hole roiuid
wliieh is collected a mass of gdittering- hoiir-lrost, caused b}'
the eoiigelation of the breath. Within this strange nursery
48
TIIK I'OLAiS \V()i:iJ).
slic |»r()(luc('s licr yoim;^, iiiid reiiiiiiiis wHli them boiioath tlu'
snow until {lie mouth (»t* i\r:ircli, wlicu sluj cuier^'cs iuto tlu'
opi'u iiir will) her biihy Ix'iirs. As tho tiiiie passes ou, the
hrt'iitli of t]u3 I'auiily, to;4"<'t]K'i' with the warmth exhalt'd
iVom their bodies, serves to eularj^'e the cell, so tlnit with
their iucreasiny dimeusious tlie aceouiuu)(.hiti()n is iucreasod
to suit them. As the ouly use of the suow-burrow is to
shelter the youn«4', the uiale l)ears do uot liibernate like tin.'
(emnles, but I'oiim freely about duriu^" the wiuter-moutlis.
liefore retiriiio' undor the snow, the bear eats enormously,
iiud, driven by an unfailini>' instinct, resorts to the most
nutritious diet, so that she becomes prodi^-iously fat, thus
laying- in an internal stm'e of alimentary nnitter which eualilcs
her not only to support her own life, but to suddeher yonii^'
during- her lonii; seclusion, without takiuj^- a morsel of foml,
IJy an admirable provision of nature, the youn'4- are of AVnn-
derfully suiall dimensions Avhen compared with the parent;
and as their ^roAvth, as lono- as they remain confined in their
ci'vstal nursi'ry, is remarkably s1(.)av, they consequently nccil
but little foo<l and space.
The Polar bear is armed Avitli i'oi'midable weapons, and a
proportionate power to use them. His claws are two inches
in len;4'th, and his canine teeth, exclusive of the piirt in the
jaAV, about an inch and a half. Thus the hoards of provi-
sions which are frecpiently deposited by Arctic voyaj^ers
to provide f(tr some future want, have no «4-rea-ter em'iiiy
than the Polar bear. 'The linal cache,' says Kane, ' Avhich
I relied so much upon, was entirely destroyed. It liinl
been built with extreme care, of rocks which had been
assend)led by very heavy labour, and adjusted with nnichai<l
often from capstan-bars as levers. Tlu' entire construction
was, so far as our means permitted, most effective and re-
sistiuL;'. Yet these tii^-ers of tlu' ice seemed hardly to have
encounten'd an obstacle. Not a morsel of ]>enimican re-
mained, except in tlu? iron cases, Avhicli beiuL*- roinid, with
conical ends, delied both claws and teeth. They had rolled
and [)awed them in every direction, tossing- them alx)ut like
footballs, althou;4'h over eighty [)ounds in weio'ht. An alco-
1m)1 can, strongly in)n-bound, was dashed into small fraj,'-
ments, and a tin can of licpior smashed and twisted almost
into a ball. The claws of the beast had perforated the metal
AlUTIC lilKDS.
VJ
,iim] t 'I'M it ii]i ;i> with ii I'lijscl. Tlii'v wci'r too diiiiitj for
sill -iii'';it> : i^Toiiinl (iitl'cc tlii'V li;iil ;iii cNidciit I'clisli i'or ;
nM iMii\,is was II tiivoiiritt' Coi' some r(';is<pn or otlicr; cvfii
dill' llur. wliirli liad l)i'iMi I'ciircd *" to take possi'ssiuii " of tin.'
A\a>'('. was ;^'iiaw('il ilowii to tlirNcrv stall'. Tlicy liad iiiadc a
iv_;i;lai' IVolic ot" it ; roUiiiL;' our Ui't'ad-barn'Is o'.cr tlio !<•(';
iimK iiiiaMt' to iiiasticute our licavy iudia-rubbt'r cloth, ilivy
liail tint it u[i ill uiiiniiii4'iualilt' hard kiu>ts.'
NiDiiltcrs of scii-hirds aro t'oiiud. hrcL-diut^' alon^;' the Ai'ctic
;-iioiTsas t'arasiiiaii has hitlici'to pouctratod : jioiue even kt'cj*
till' MM ill the liiL;h latitudis all the winter, wlierovci' opcu
w iter r.\i>ts. ( )]i the uiost uort lit rii ro(dcs t lie ra zor-l (i II rears
it- \iiuiil;', and the I'uliu.ir and lioss' L;"Tdl haxc hccii seen in
l.iihs of uatci' hcvond S'J'' lat. As the sun ^'ains in [tower,
eiiiiniioiis troops of [)utUiis, looms, dovi'kies, i'<»tL!X's, sknas.
]Hir'4vi'niasters, Sabine's 54'ulls, kittlwakcs, ivory ^'ulls, aiiil
Arctir lerns. return to the north. There they enjoy the lou^'
Mininier day, and revel in the abini(hiiice of the tish-teeniinn'
Avatei's, Itrinein^' life and aiiiiuation iido solitudes seldom or
].iiliaiis never disturl)ed by the jtresence of man. and mine'linj^-
t!i( ir wild sei'eanis with the hoarse-ivsoiindiny' sur^'e or the
liMwIiijM' of the storm. in many localities they bi'eed in
*s'i( !i abuinlaiice, that it niav be said, almost uitlioiit exa^'-
L;.'iat ioii. til, it they darken the sun when they ily, and hide
1 'le w aters when t hev swim.
Grnrnpus.
I II u
w.mIi's (
I liHIhlrl'
;i lljiprr
..)■ |r,.|;
<\r I'cjii
"11 till'
\ Ijiilh' LI
iiiiL:'lit ;il
■ I. rill, I, I
Or. I fa JciKull, ti'iri Kcvuiviiiir.
CIIAITEIJ V.
\'u|i','iiii(' Ori^rin "f ilic Isl.iiul -Tlir Ivloia .li'ikiill — Lava Slroaiiis — Tlic I'lU'iii:.
.Muiiiitaiiis oTKrir^iivik 'Hie ^^Ull Caldrons nf Ixcvkjalilid '-'riic 'rnnfro-livi
j;.>yklii>li ---'riii'(iiTal (;.y-ii-— Tlh' Htvokkr— (Vv-fa! Pools 'I'lir .\liiiann;i-' -
Tho Siii-ls licllir -,!5paiitit'iil rcc-ravc 'rin" (i.itlia Foss— 'I'lic Drlii I''oss i
mate — \'iactation — Cattle — Uarliai'Oiis .Mmlr of Slu'cp-slicarinfi' - liuimlrr]-
I'dlai' licars — Ppii'ds— 'I'lin I'ailor-diU'k — X'idoy — Vi;,'r — 'I'lio Wild 8\van— T
li'aviii — Till- JiTlalcon — 'I'ln^ (iiaiil Auk or (icivfutrl — ,l''ish — l^'ishiiu;; Sra-ni;- 1
TIk' AVhili' Shark - MiiU'i'al Kiiigduin — .Siilpliui' — I'oat —Drift Wood. ?
TOELAND luio'lit as well be ciillod Firolaiid, for all its lo,iiiiii
I square miles have originally been n j^iliea ved from the dcptln
of the Avaters by volcanic power. First, at some immeasuraUvf
distant period of the n'orM's history, ihe small niielens of tli
future island begtin to strugglti into existence against tli'|;
superiiicundx'ut weight (»f the ocean ; then, in the course '!
ages, cone rose afttn- ccme, crater was formed after crjitrr,!
4'ruption followed on eru})tion, and lava-stream on lava-stromii
until finally the Iceland of the present day was piled up ^vit'
her gigantic ^ jidculls,' or ice-mountains, and her vast pi'"-j
montories, stretcdiiiig like hun'e buttresses far out into tli'
sea.
nil', ici: i'ii;i,ii> or n k i.\m>.
;i
^.y III (Niiit'T. when nil iiliiKiNl |M'f|M'l ii;i 1 iiii^'lit cdvci's tlic
\\,l>|is iif tllis tirr-l»(>ni IiIIhI. illld tin' W ;l VCS nl' ;| stitl'Ill V tiCCilll
iIhiihIi r iiLiiiiiist its slmrcs, iiii;iL;-iiiiit inn ciiii linrilly |ii<-iin'('
;i III. Iff (li'Snliilc sft'iir; l>iit ill siiniiiicr tlic nij^'i^'cd iiiilurc
..( Iii'laii'l invests itself with iiiiinv ii chiinn. 'i'lim the
. , \,' jviM.scs with (Icli^lit on ^-ret'ii vnllevs ;in<l crvstiil inlxes,
<,ii ihi' |inr|»!e hills or sno\v-e;i[t|MM| iiioiintiiins rising- in
\l|iiiii' ^'niinleiir iibove the distil lit liori/.oii, and the stniiiLi'er
iniulit nhiiost l)etein[)ted to excliiiiii witli her patriotic sons.
;. • icel:iinl is the best land under the sun.' That it is
mi.' of liie most interesting' — tlir(Mit;-li its history, its in-
li;iliitaiits. and above all its natural curiosities — no one can
It has all that can please and fascinate the noet, the
'|(M|l>t.
artist, the
I'
olo|H'ist, or the hist(tvian ; the prosaic utilitarian
iiloiie. arcustoined to value a countrv merely by its productions,
iiiiti'lil turn with some c(Uitempt from a. hiiul without corn,
witlioul forests, Avithout mineral riches, and covered foi' about
two-thirds of its surface with lioi^-s, lava-wastes, and i^'laciers.
The curse of sterility rests chieily on the south-eastern and
iriitral parts of the island. TTere nothing* is to be seen but
deserts of volcanic stone or imuK.Mise ice-iields, the iare-cst of
which -the Klofa j(»kull — alone extends over more than l()(i(l
sfjuare miles. The interior of this vast I'c^'ion of iu''\e and
'4'laiit'r is totally unlvuown. The liiLi'hest i)eaks, tin,' most
dreadful volcanoes of tlie island, rise on the southern and
smith -western borders of this liitherto inaccessible waste ; the
(h'aefa Idukiug- down from a liei<;'ht of (>0<l(> feet U]>on all its
rivals — the 8kaptar, a name of dreadful si^'nihcance in the
annals of Iceland, and further on, like the advanced e-iim-ds
cf this host of slumbering' tires, the Katla, the jNFyi'dal, the
Hyjaljalla, and the Hecla, tlie most renowned, tluuieh not the
iiiest terribl(\ of all the volcanoes of Iceland.
As the iec-liclds of this northern island far surpass in
iiiauiiitudc those of the A1[)S, so also the lava-streams of
-Ktiia or Vesuvius are insit^'iiilicant when compared with the
I'lieniious masses of molten stone Avliieh at various periods
li;i\e issued from the craters of Iceland. Vnnn Mount
Skialilel)i'eith, on both sides of the Lake (^f ThiuL^'valla as far
as *'ai»e Keykjanes, the travidler sees an miinterrujited lava-
ti''U more than sixty miles lony- and frequently from twelve
E '2
Tin; I'dl.Ai; WnlJI.K.
1(1 lil'tt'cii Itmiid ; iiiid |;iv;i-stff!iiiis (if still luort' L;i'4'i"'^''" |"'"-
j)(>i'ti<>iis rxisl ill iiiiiiiv dtlii'i' piirts of tln' isliiuil, piirlicu-
liirly ill 111"' iiilcrior. In ;;fii('r;il llirsc hivii-strt'iiiiis Innc
(•(»(»|i'<| down into tlic most liiiitiistic loriiis iiiiji'^iuiiltlo. " li
is iiiivdlv hossiliic/ siivs Mr. IIoII.iihI, ' to i^ivr iinv idcii of tln'
l^'ciicriil ii|tpt'iiriinc(' of tlicsc once nioltfii iiiiissrs. lit if a
I^TCilt cVily' IlilS toppled oVtT into sollir deep cri'VllSSO, — tlli'iv
il Illll^'C IlliISS llSIS Im'CII llpllCilVtd IiImiVC till' fiiTV stiTiini wliirli
liiis seethed iiiid itoiled ;iroiili<l ils l»;ise. Here is every s1i;i]m
mid li^'ure tli.it sciil|»t me ('(.iild di si;.;ii or iiim^'iiiiit ion pid mv,
jUlllMed t()|>'i'tlier in Li'rotescille eoiil'iisioll, whilst e\-ervwliiT,
iiivriiids ui' hori-id spikes ;ind sharp shaptdess irreij'iilai'iti(>-
hrist le amidst them.' *
Or;io(u .U:kull, the Moiiai'-li ot IcolanJic Mouutiuu?.
jjy the eruptions of the Icelaiidie voleaiioes many a tun
]iiea(U>\v-laiid has heeii converted into a stony wilderness : hut
if the subterranean tires have fre(nieutly bro)i<j;ht ruin aii'I
desolation over the island, they have also endowed it wit!,
many natural wonders.
In the ' burning' mountains ' of Krisuvik on the soiitli-
^vestern coast, ii wlnde bill-slope, witli a deep narroAV <4erL:>
at its foot, is covered with innnnierable Ixnlin;^' spring's jiinl
'•" ' iV;ik>. I'liSM'.'-. and ( i laoii r,s."
tUIiiliroli
>l''lM'll.
|.|..te|\ I
The N
.iiiimml;.-!
ill oiii' (,|
"11 tlie 1:
W iMerile
srale. 'I
;ill tilled
III ill i II l;' (
einitliii;
■>lll| Jllil'O
<i>iileiits
;ippe,irs t
iiiiiiill li;il
I'lisiii, eiii
state. '1'
less 1 li;iii
illtel\;||s
\\ itli a \ i(
'•ix 111' ('i<_
elle of 1 Ik
•^pel, sav>
liave desil
infernal <j;
Aliio|i:j;'
iiiindreds
-"iiie are (
''■illiiiiM'. V
nature are
iimst reinii
i:i tile • va
Mp'iir ,.)
•witl.'red
'■'iiMtaius
' iiiitiiii4- i
I'ili'e of a
-'■11 the SI
i':^a eo];i;
1I<»T S|'|!l\(iS (»!•■ MKLWIt.
ruihiiii'lcs. \\lio>c .li'iisc i'\li;iliilii)tis, siirciitliiiL:' ;iii iiiinlci'iiUli'
st'iicli. issiir iiiit i>r llii'iiirtli with ii liissiii;;' iinisc ninl cuiii-
|,|it,'lv liiili' I he \ i
I'W
'I'lir N;'iiii;il\ or lioiliiiL': liiuil-ciildi'diis of I'c_vlv/|;lliliil, ^it^l•lt('(l
;iiiiuii;^s1 ii raiiii't.' nf iiKiuiitaiiis near tin' Myviilii (li'iiiil-lakc),
ill niii' of tlic must sdlilarv spnts in iIh' iiorlli nf \\u> islaiitl,
>iii till liui'di'V of ciKiniioiis lava-til 'Ms ami < -I' a vast mil;iii>\vii
Ifiiii'ss. rxliiliit viiKaiiir [.uwcr on u still nioiT ^i^'aiitif
U ill
>i'ii
Ir. 'riit'ro ai'c m> less than twi'lvr of Ih
rsi' set 'til in;.'; [ilt;
iiil IiIIimI with a ilisn'nstiiiL;' thirk siiniv 'j^vcy or Mark' li(|iiiil,
liiijlinn' or simiiH'i'inn" with L;i't'at('r or less vchoinem-t', ami
ciiiiiiiiiH' ilriisc vojiinii's of steam stroii^jlv ini[ir('^'iiati'(l with
>iil| liiirous i^'asrs. Somi' sputtrr furiously, scattering' their
iiijili'iits on every side, wliile in others the mmM\ souj*
ii[»[n.'ars too tliii l\ to l)oil, and after remaiiiiii<4' tjuicsccMit foi'
•.ilioiit liiiU" ;i III ill lite, rises up a few imdies in the cent re of the
I'lisiii. emits a [»till' of steam, and then subsides into its i'ormer
Nliite. The diaiaeter of the lai'L;'est of ;ill the pits cannot he
Irs^ than fifteen feet ; and it is a sort of nmd (Jevsir, for at
iiiti'ivals ;i I'ohimn of its lilaidc liijiiid contents. ace()ni[)iinicd
\\itli ;i violent rush of steam, is thrown up to the hcit^'ht of
-ix or ei^'lit feet. l*rofcssor Sartorins von Waltersliausen,
niie of 1 lie few travellers who have visited this rejiiavkalde
sjiut, savs (litit the witches in Murlnlh could not jiossihly
lesired a more lit tin:;' [dace for the preparation of their
ave I
1^
internal ^riiel than the mud-caldrons of I'evkjahlid.
Aiiion^' the hot oi" boiling* s[)i'in^\s of Iceland, which in
liumlreds of ]. lares l^'UsIi forth at the foot of the mountains,
Millie are of a identic and even How, and can he used for
Itutliiii;^-, washiny, or builiiiL^', while others of an intermittent
I Ml are are mere uhjoets of curiosity or wonch.'r. One of the
iMo^i reiiiarkalile of tlu' latter is the Tmc^o-hver at Reiklndt,
':i ihe • valley of siiiolce,' thus named from the c(dumiis (d'
I \,i[ioiir emitted hy the thermal springs which are here
j| M-aitered alioiit with a lavish hand. It consists of two
MMtaius within a yard of eacdi other — the lan^'er iie
'laiiiiiL;' a column (>f IxtiliiiL;" water ten feet Iuli'Ii for the
I'iiie of about four minutes, when it entirely subsides, ami
'lieu the smaUer one operates for al)out three minutes, ejei-t-
^ .; -oliimii (d'uboiit fiNc feet. Tlu' alternation is [perfectly
5-1
tin; I'OI.Ali UnK'IJi
rci^iiliir ill tunc ;iiiil rorcc. iiinl liici'c iirr ;iiit liciit ic iiccdiin
(>r ils 11111';! iliiiLj' cxiict it mlc for I lie last Inn id red \ cars.
lint
i<] al
II
n- siiriiic^ asul Iciiiitaiiis of Ireland llitTi
i>
ltd
III' (<> ('(|Ual, cil licr i'l Li'i'ii iidciir <>]• i'imiowii, t he LiiTat ( u'vsir.
w iiicli is not iiicrrlv one dj' t he curinsit ie.s of ilic comil rs\ Kiit
one of t lie wonders of 1 he earth, as there is nolhiiiL:' to eoiii-
I'.'ire to it ill aii\ oilier |>ai-< of tlie worhl.
At the foot of the liiUiciifjiill liill,iii:i L^reeii [thiin, t hroiit^ji
whicji sevei'a! rivers iiieaiidei' like t hreads of silver, ;nid wliciv
leiv
lln-
W
(•] tains of dark -roll mred inoiinliiins, overt o]i]>ed hei'e and t
hv distant snow-peaks, form a p,'i'aiHl hiU nie|aiieli<p| y ]pa
I'ania. dense \«i| nines of steam ii id irate from afai" 1 he site ofn
li(de system of < lieriiial ^]))'in'j:'s coiej-re^'aled oil a small |iirci'
of >4'roiiiid wlii(di lioes Hot exceed twt i \e aeres. In aii\' oIIiit
s|)()t, the smallest of these boiling' Ibiiiitaiiis would arrest ilii-
traveller's attention, l)iit liere his whole mind is ahsorhed \>\
the yreat CJeysir. Tn the eonrse of et.aiiilless agvs this nioiiarcli
of s[)riii;4's lias forined, ont of the siliea it dejiosits, a moiiiiil
w
hieh rises to about tliirtv feet al ove tlie Li'eneral surf;
of the jilaiii. and slopes on all siiles to the distance of ;i
Ini lid red feet or tliere;il>oiit s, from the l.)o}'der of a larii'e eirciihii
liasiii sit Hilled in its ceiiti'e and measiiriiiL;' al)out liltv-six Irrt
the i^'realest diameter and liftv-tAvo feet in the JKii'n
>We
1 Hh
•( 'W-
111 the midd!<' of this l);isin, formiiie' as it were a g'ig'aiitii'
i'unnel, there is a pqie or luhe, whicli at its ojieuiiin' ii
l);isiii is eie'hteeu or sixteen fet'i in dituneter, l)Ut nan
eoii'-ider;ihly at a litlle distance from the mouth, and tin ii
appciii's io he not more than ten or iwtd\(' feet in (hiinictcr.
!i Inis lieeli [trohed to a depth of seveHy feet, hilt it is liiei'i'
o ill''
howels of tlie earth. 'The sides of the tiihe are smoothlv
lolished, ;iiid so ]iard tlait it is not nossihle to strikt' ulf ii
tli;in pro! ,ilile that hiddeu (luninels raiid'y furtlier iiit
1
[liece of it x^itii a li;iiiiiiier
(leiieriilly the whole ii;isin is j'olliid filled uj) to the 1
liniii
wi
til sea-g-reeii w;iteras pure as crystal, and of a ti'iiifiei'al
from l.--(» to I'.'i*. Astonished at the jdarid lrain(iiill
llVr
itv
of the j>ool, Ihi' tra\c!ler can hardly helie\e that he is re;illv
slaiidiii;^' on the hrink of the lar-famed (ieysir; hul suddm';
a siihteriM iie;i 11 ihiiiider i,' heard, tlie Liroiind (remliles uinli'i'
his feet, ilic w.itcr in the hasiii lieuins to simmer, and l;i'''„''
TilK .^TK'oKKI!.
Pi:
Imlilili'S III' s!c;i III rise IVom llic 1 iihc ;i ml InirsI (Ui rr;i''liiii^-
I lie >iirt';ii-t'. t lii'iiN'i iiil;' 141 siiKill jets (if sjiray lo Hit' lit'iL;lit »>t'
scv«T;il I'l'i't. Knci'v iiist;iii1 he expects to witin'ss the ^'rinid
^|ll•,•ta(•^' wliieli liiis rliietly iii'ltieed liiiii 1(1 visit this iiui-thei'ii
hiii.l. hill seen the hasiii hecoiiies tr.iii(|nil ;is before, aiid
the (l.'iise vapeiii's [U'odiieeti h_v tlie ebullition are walled
awav by the bi'ee/e. These siiiallcr eruptions are reyularly
|a-.tf ivpca'e'd e\i'ry ei;^1ity or ninety uiiinites. but tVecjueiitly
til. tfa\ellei' is oblii^'ed to wait a whole thiy or even h)ii!4'er
lii'lore he >i'es the whole power of the (ieysir. A detoua-
liiMi joiiilcr than usual ]»reeedes one of these i^riiiid erup-
ticus; the water in the l)asin is violently a^'itati^'d ; the
tube boils vehemently; and suihlenly a ina^'iiiHcent eoluniu
if wati'i', clothed in vapour of a da/./.lin;j;' whiteness, shoots
M|i into ilir air \\!<h imniense iin[ietiiosity and noise b»
the heiii'ht of se\ciity oi' eij^'hty fe«'t. and, radiating" at its
ape.x. >]iowers water and steam in every direction. A second
et'iiptitin and a third rapidly tViliow, and after a lew minutes
the fain -pcctacle has passed away like a fantastic vision.
'I'lie basin is now eoin]>letely drie<l up, and on lookiuL;' down
to the -haft, v\[i' is astonished to see the water about six
n ill''
.■r< 'W-
hni
leti'V.
lliefi'
o i!k
1 11 111)
(iir ;l
f rim
•atiiiv
lillity
renllv
deii':
Uliili'V
la''Ut'
in
•I I'l'Miii the rini. an
il as t
raii(|uil as in an ordinary we
dl.
Alb'v about ihirt V or fort v niiimtes it auaiji be^'ins to rise.
aii'l after a few lion
11
rs reaches the brim of the ba-^in., whei
ice
mound into Ihe llvita
it llow> down file slope of lb
\Vliit( -river.
Siieii the >iiltterraiieoii> thunihi', the shaldtiL;' oi' the i^i'oiind,
tlic siniiiieriiiL:' abo\e the tulie, and the other [ihe]iomena
u iiicli attiMid eai h ininoi- eruption, be^i'in ayain, to be tbjiowed
i'V a ih w [leriod of rest, and thus t his woiidi.'rful play < filature
's on (lav after da\. vcar after \ear. and <'tidiirv after
cell-
'nr\. The iiiuund oi fhe(ie\sir lieais w if nes:- to its ii
luiti
iinieiise
luily. as itr. water eontains Imt a minute portion of silica.
After thi- (b-ysir the most remarl:al>!e fountain of these
I'lilepi'a ail lleldx is the L;'reat S'rokkr, situated about four
iiMi'irc'l fci't from the former. It.-, tube, the inai'u'in of w hieh
H ahiiiist even with the general surface, the small mound
il 1 In Iteiiii; bai'tllv discernibk', is funiiei-shajted or re-
bliii:;' ihe ilower ofa eonvolvnbis. ha vinu" ti (h'pt h of foiiy-
'U'lit feet, and a dia meter of si \ feet at thenioiitli, but ci.n-
•la
56
Till-; I'OI.AU UOIil-l).
tl'llCtillU", at t \Vt'lll_V-t wo feci tVolll tllr lidttolii. Ill (i|il_\ rlc\rii
ihclics. Tlic water .sttuids IVom nine \<> t wflvc t'ccl iimlcv t ln'
liiiin, ;iii.! is L^c'iicraHy ill U'lciit clHiUit ioii. A slmi't tiiiir
liflni'i' tlif lii'^^iniiiiiu' (if tilt.' eniptioiis, wliich :ir<" iiidiv
rjV(|Ut'iit tliaii tiio^c i>\' Ihi' n'rcat (''cysir, an ciidi'iiious mass M
of sicaiii nislics iVoiii the tiilic, atitl is followed ]»_v a i'a|iii|
.^iicct'ssiiiii (tf Jets, someliiues I'isiiiL^' to the liei^lil of i'jOdi'
I ■"■)(> feet, and dissolviiiL;" int(,i silvery mist. A [leculiaritv of the
Sti'oklcr is that it can at any lime Ix' [»rovoKed to an ei'ujitiMii
itv throwing' int<t t lie onlice lurn'e masses of peat or turf:
thus cl^ikiiiL;' liie sli.ift and prevent in^- the free esca[)e of ih.-
steam. Aiier the lapse o\' ahont ten minntes. the hoili'i;'
Ihiid. a> if indiuiiant al this attem[>t n[>on its lihi'iiy. heavc<
lip a eohimn of mnd and uater witli i'ra^anenfs of pcai av
hhiek as ink.
Ahont 1 .')0 paces from tJio L;'i"Oat (Icysir are several pools nt
I he m(tst h('aiit ifnlly (dear water, tintinn' svilh I'Vei-y shade ol
1 he pnrest i^'reen and hi lie t he fanlast ieal forms of t lie silicieii
Iravei'tin which (dothes their sides. 'Jdie sli;4'htes1 iiiotidli
commiinie.ited to the smdai'e (piivers (h»wii to t!ie hottoui "t
these crystal i^"r()ttoes, and imparts what iiiii;h! he called ;i
svni[iat hetie tremor o!' the water \o every (hdicate incrnstatinn
and plant-lik'e eJil<»rescenee. 'Ahnhliirs ('a\-t> could not Ix'
nioi-e iKMiitifiil.* says I'reycr ; and ^fr, Holland remarks that
neither desci'iption nor (h'awin^- is capable (>\' ix'w'iii'j: a siif-
li<-ie!it idea of the sine-ulurity and loveliness of this s[)()t. hi
iiian\ [daces it is daiiL^'erous to ap[)roacJi within several feet cf
the marLi'in, as the <'arth overhan^^'s the water and is lu-llcw
underneath, siipp(»rte(l only hy incrustations scarcely a fent
thick. A [ihini;'!' into waters of about 20ir' wonhl be [taviii;.'
rather too dearly for the couteinplatioii of their fairv-lik^'
I'cauty.
'Ihe L^ii^aiit ic (diasni of tiu' Ahnanna<4;ja is another ('f the vol-
eanic wonders of Icidan*!. Aflei- a lon;^' and ied.ldus i'id,e evil'
ihe vast la\a-[dalii wliicli extends between i\\v Slcahdell iiiiil
ilu' lal<e ol' 'I hiiiuvalla. the travtdler sn<ldenly limls ]iiii:>-i'
arrested in his path liy ;in apjiareiit ly iiisnrnion lit aide obst.n! ■
i'l.r the etiornioiis AlmaiMKUxJa, er Allman's j,*iff. siidd> iil
•japes liiiieath his feet- a cohiv^al rent extending;' aliove a ni:'
in leiiut h. and eiieloxd "II !>oi!i sides b\ altni[it walls of
i.iii'
l:i\a. (I-.',
from ah
\ -JM'lMlilll
li:i\e|i"s
miles Cm
f'flill of
has itse
e|V\ici>,s
^ay-- f;ni'(
tioiis (if
;ii!iid the
h:'l\Vefll
:^'ir;4'e,>. it
I'f IlloJti'I
its varied
thiii^rs tu
• IS i! cipiih
elaiii of '
adjoiiiiiio-
I v>.i para I
te luark I
or iiian'n\'
>-lirl;icc h,'
llleit.'ll st
'■a\rin iiii
deWII." Ii
lijii has I
'■eV.|V(l \vi
' '.N'l'aa, ho
I'iideaii (
''>V"eli it.s \
'"f a iiioiii
''V a cin-i
'•"la ielnl ,,
■' peitr croii
ii' till' Aim;
• llrrv,.-t|-vi
' iv;(->li ,},,._
''•'•':illdic (,
Till-: Al.M.VV.VAn.lA.
57
a a
iiMi
hat
^ut'-
lii
■1 cf
t'.JUt
IV ill'.'
V<M-
( >Vt'
iiiMi:
lii;i'
1,1 \;i. rivqU'-iitly il[i\v:ii'il> (if ;i ]iili!(li'r(l tret lii'_;'li. ilinl sc | lii r;it('(l
IVuiii ;|l)iil!t lit'lV t" S('\('llt\ trrl Iroin f;|cll < )t 111 'l'. A colTc-
•.|M-iniinL;' '•li'i^^iii- ''"t <>r iiilrridr (liniriisiciir lln- llnirnit ( lj;l,(•l•
|^l\l•l^s iJit't. ('I'dlS its I'lilck l'i!i!l|iitrt 1<i t iic ciisl . illiollt ('i;_;'llt
mill's t'urt I MT (111 ; :i ii(M»i ■! li torni t hr In Miiiilai'ii's i>f' IIh' \ criiaiit
pl.iiii >>{' 'riiiii^v;ill;i. wliicli I)_v n ^i'iiihI cntuulsion of iiatiuv
!i,is it.--'ir I'ccii sliiilliTcil into iiiiiuiiiri'iilili' siniill [laraild
(■ri'\ icrs aiiil lii^suivs til'ty or sixty t'fft (lfr|». • A^cs a,n"<'."
^a\s l.iii'i] Duttt'i'lii. " some \ ast riiiiiiiint ion ^liwok tlirtouinla-
(i. Ills III' lilt.' island; ami liiiMiliiiu'; up I'i'imii sourt-rs faraway
;ii!iiil Ihi' iiilaiul liill.-. a lii'i'v ilclu^X' uiusl liavr i'usIumI dowii
lictWi'i.'ii llii'ir riders, iiiili!, I'scapinn' fi'oiii llio narrower
:4MrLi"i",>. it fouml si'acr to i^prcad itsrlf into one l)roa(l shed
ill' iiiiilti'ii stoni' o\i'r an ontiri' dislrift of country, rciliu-inu'
its\aiii'il surfat'i' to one vast lilaclccnud lr\i'l. ()n(' of two
tliiii'^s thru n-ruj"; ■'(] : lit her 1 he vilrilli'd mass, foiitracting-
.IS it coiiIimI, tlir (Ciitrc area of Jifty ^-l(uar(' niilfs (the prose'nt
hlaiii of Tliin^'valla ! Inirst asuuili'i- at citlirr sido from tlif
iiiijiiiiiinu' plati'aii. and sinking' down to its pri'scnt level, left
l\v.) [larallel i^'jas or cliasins, wliicli form its lateral lioundaries,
111 liiaflc the limits uf the di.>rn]ttion : or else, while the [»itli
or marrow of the |;i\a was still in a lluid state, its iij»[iei'
--iiii'ace hccanu' solid, ami foiaiietl a roof, heiuMth which the
iiinlicii stream llowed on to lower levels, leaxiiiu' a vast
ia\eni into which tin' iqqier crust subsequently iiluni|>ed
iliiwii." ill the lapse (A' years, the holtoin of the Almanna-
'ij.i has hecdiiie ^'radually lilled up to an e\en surface,
>■ •vcivi] with the most heaiitiful turf, except where tlii- rivi'r
<<.\i'raa. hiiuiiditiL;' in a ma^'niliceiit catai'act t'rom lli.' hiii'her
I'latcaii over the precipici', ilows ['<>v a ceifain di>fame be-
IW'cii its- walls. .\t the \\>iA of the fall, ihewatei's lill^•er
for a iiioiiienl in a dark. deep. brimmiiiLi' pool, ipeiiimed in
hy a circle of ruined rocks, in which aiicienlly all woinen
'••iiivicti'd of ca) lit a I crimes were imm.'diately drow -led. Many
ii pnur oroue. accused of wittdicraft, has thus ended her days
ill tile Ahiiannauja. i\s may easily be imae'ined. it is rather
: ui'i've-ti'vin^' task to descend into ihe chasm, ovor a rui;V'd
luv;i-.-,lo[te. whei'e the least false ste)» i,ia_\ prow I'atal: hut the
iilic hoises are >o sui'e-footed. thai ihe\ call -afe!\ lie
'.;,d. I'lom the bottom ii i> i'as\ to di^i iu^ ni-.h i.. the
r,H
Tin: i'»>i,Ait \V(»iiM>.
one (';i('i' iii;n'l>;s iilid Ci iriiiii * ioiis cviiclly i'<iri'i'S]n 'iHliii;^'. tliiui^li
ilt ;i ilin'ciclil l('\cl. willl tlic.-^c nil tlli' I'llft' (i|ijnisit(', iiinl
c'viili'iilh sliowiii;^' tli;it IIk'V oih-o !i;iil (l(>\'cl;iil(M.l into (';i.!i
oilier. Iicioiv tilt' iuiM'oiis iiuios was reiit astindi'V.
'Two Ica^'iics IVoiii J\aIiiiaiistuiiL;'a. in an iiiiniciisr la\::
Held, wliicli pro'iaMy oi'i^'inalcil in llic l>aM .)ol<iill. aiv
^^itlUlte(l tli<' rciiowncd .Surts-lullir, or raves ui' Suj-tur. the
.--i.irLs- I loHir.
]iriiiee of darlciiess an<l (ire ol' ilie aiieiiMit Scaiulinav im.
ni\ tliolo^v. The |ii'inci|ial entrance to the eaves is an e.\- i.
ten.Nive cliii-^ui ioi'ined liy the i'allin;4' in of a part (tt" the lii\;i-
looC; so that, on deseoiidinLi' into it, the visitor linds hini-^i'lt
riLi-ht in the month of the main ea\ern, which runs in ;iii
almost sti'ai^'hl line, and is nearlv a niih* in length. !;»
avcra^v hciu'ht is ahont tort v. ami its hreadth iil'ty feet. Tln'
lava-crnsfwhi( h forms its roof is ahont twelve feet tlii'i.
ami has (he a|>|>eava-iice oi' beiuL;' sti'alified and cohnnii;ii'.
like basaltic pillars, in its toi'mation. .Many of the idot-ksii!
lava tluis foi'med havt' hecome detaehed ainl falli'ii into tlir
cavern, where I hey lie piled \\[> in u'reat heaps, and liei.vii^
tax the patieme t>f the ir.iveller. who ha.- to sci'amhle eVii'
the rULi'n'cd stones, and c,in hardly avoid sli|>pin:.r uimI stiaii-
' 1 1 1 1 1 '_; it
.(lid II!:!
!■' tlie.
Illllj'iv 1
li'MUt\
Uie. !l|l\-
:ji'"iij, Ml
lllr IVimI
< '|||llllln>
»:lll^. ill
liiladivdl
^m'H; a.st(
'ile Slll'1
■ i"'i-l;|i-j,.
"lie of 111,
"f Cie (Hi
i'Voiii (
i.'ic cciili
-I'l"-. win
'■inMlih 'tis
i.M-V ;,||m
'"■'■•idlll. i
■iXW'J the ;
'''■'■i\e the
' "'l'e\v fnr
'";ir liii;..;e
'liiliililli<-;
' :illks.
1 i\>' clii,
^ '..i !i.. ih
'11 1 111' mi, I,
' 'lli"f and
' 1 ( i 1 1 1 <
'■^'^1 ;■ ■ La
'■ "iiitry. c'oi
i'1'T..VS cjist
f1■:^;•^ 1,:. J
1!'
Jes.^
^ri;'iS'iii:i,[.ii;
•ifj
l\ Kill
1 r.\-
iii-i'ii
l,|iii._: inlu till' liolc,^ I't.'t wt'iMi lliciii, vavifd liv pouls of \v;i1ri'
.,lnl in;!S.-A'S nC r^lloW. I'.lll ill'tiT J!:l\ill^- loilcd ai\(l pl(ul(lt'(l
!o ilh' cxt rciiiif V "f this disiiuil cavoni. liis pcrscvfraiici' is
;iiM|'iv rt'vviirJcd \)\ tilt' si^ht of an ic<'-L;iMtti>. wliost" t'aii'v
lir,iiit\ a[i)i<'ars .still iimrc cli.i niiiiiL;' in contrast witli its
■ di"iinv vrstilud''. I'l'oin tin.' ei'\stal lloor vises <!'i'ou|i aftor
-I'Miijp iif IranspaTriit [allars taporin;.;' to a point, while IVom
'111' fool', hrillianf icy |H'ndanls han^' down to ini'cl tlicin.
('(iliniins and ai'chi's of ice are vanu'ed alon^^ Hi,, crvstalline
u:dU. and lh'' ii^'ht of the candles is I'etlected hac]< a
Iniiidivdrold IVoni every side, till the wliolo cavern shines
with a-l-aiisldnL!.' instre. ]\lr. llolliuid. the latest \isilor of
ijii' Sni'ts- nii\ declares he never saw a inoi'e la'iliiant
-|ii'c1;iide : ,iad the (ieniian iiatnralist, I'reyer, pron<innees il
"111- of iln' most ni.iuiiiiicent si^'hls in nainri'. reminding' liini
iif tlie faiiy Lirottoes of the Ai'abiaii !Nig'hts' ^Fales.
Fi'oiu the nionntains and the \ast [ilatean uhicli occuj'ies
i!ie centre tA' ti! island, tniiueroiis rivers (jescend on all
-id''-., uhiiji. fed in siihinier hy the meltinn' L;laciers. ponr
iiiiiriiiiMis (|aa!itities (»f turhid A\ater into the sea. or con\(.'i'l
l.ir'^f allu\ial ilats into inoi;isses. Thoiitih of a considerahle
liivinlih. tlii'ir ctinrse is fre(itiently very short. [)art icnla rly
iiiotiM' the sonthern coast, wlior*' the Joknlls I'roni whiidi they
(lc!'i\e their liivtli are onlv separat*.Ml from the sea hy a
irii'icn foi'i'land. In their ini[»etuous How, 1 hey not stddoni
Itcai' Inu'.e hkudcs of stone alon^ with them, and cnt olf all
iiinminication hetwi-en thf iiihahit ants o!' their <>[•[
losile
lunik
Till' chief rivers ot' Iceland are. in the sonth, the l'lii(.rsa
• iii'l til'' 1! \ ita. wliich an.' not iiifri'K
in width to llio Khiii
M I III'
middle part of its conrsf : in tlie north, the Skjalfan
lliot ami tiie ,loknlsa anil the .h'd<uls i i Axarfirdi, la
|.,,-,.
!|iid streams al
)ove a linndrid m:
and m t la'
111' '■
lmi;iv.
i ja'.i'ar(lio. . As ma\ he ^'xpected in a mountaiiioirs
iiitry. Col taiiiin'4' many ;^-lucKN.--fed rivers, Irel ind has im-
■I'otis cascades, man\ <d'thein rivallini: or snr[ias>iiiM' ii(
• ihe far-famed falls of Svvitzerlaml.
;V1!\
•f tit' most ci.'lebrated of these j^'ems of natni
e ! S
• ^ in the norllicrn pari of lh." island. f<.rmed hy
and '.'apid Sk jalfaiidalljot, as it ' h-'S with a
i 1
fiO
TIIK I'ol.AK Woin,!'.
d(';if('iiiii^' r(>;i)- over imcIns lifty fed IiIljIi iiilc tin- ("iMi'un
Ix'Inw; Imt it is t'lir sur|»:issc(l in iiiiiLi'iiiliii'iicc liv tli<' Dclli-
t'oss, II full <'l' llu' J(ikiils;i i A\;i rtinli.
'Ill sdiiic (if ( (Id cii v\ ITs !•( i!i\ iilsioHs,' sa vs its ilismrfi-cr, Mi'.
(JoiiM,- lor rruiii its rciiiKtc sitiialiou, deep in tlir iioiiliciii
wilds of Iceland, it had cscajK^l the cnrions eve of prcvitnis
Iravcllers — ' tlic fvust td' roc!< lias lit'cn roiit, and a t'ri<.;'litl'iil
lissiivc Coniifd in tlic liasait, aliout 2(H) fcL't dcfp, with tlic sid^.s
(•(duninarand itcipfiidicnlar. The <4'asli tcrininatcs id>ru[(tlv at
an acute aiiLi'lc, and at 1 his sjiol the i^'rcat ri\ cr r<i|ls in. Tlic
rcaths ol' water s\v('i'j>inLi' <hi\vn ; *he iVeii/v of the conliiH'd
treaiiis whei'e they meet, sho<itiii<>' into eacdi other li
w
Olll
eitliej'si(h' at the apex of an ane'le ; the wild rehoiiml when
tln'v strike a head of rock, iurchiiii:;- out halfway down; the
litj'iil i;ltaiii of haltliiio- torrents, obtained throui^-h a veil nf
<'d<lyinn" \apour ; the (Jeysir-spouts which blow ii[i aheiit
seventy le<'t from holes whence basaltic columns ha\(' fiecii
shot by the force of the descendiue- water; the bhists df
s[)ray whi( h rush upwards and burst into tierce showers eii
ilie brink, I'eedine- rills which }ilmie'e over the eili;t' as sixui
as they are born ; the white writ liiiii4' \drte.\ below, with imw
and then an ice-j^'reen wave tearing- ihroii^^h ihe foam tn
lash anaiiist the walls; th.e thun<ler and bellowing- of tlh'
water, wliich make the rode shnddev under fo*_it, are nil
stamped on my m. ' with a vividness which i! will take
years to efface. Idie iVlmanna'ji'ja is nothing t<t this chasm.
and Sehaifhansen is dwarfed by Dettifoss.' *
( )f (he many lakes or ' vatn.s" (if Iceland, the Thingv
tlu' My, tind the Ifvitar, are the most considerable.
ill;i.
'Ihe o«*t'aii currents which wash the coasts of Icelautl IVeii
ip[»osite directions have a considerable inllueiu-e oii ii-
diniate. The south and wtst coasts, front Iul;' the Atlaiitu'.
en
w
w
ind exposed to the (Julf .Stream, remain ice-free ev
inter, and enjoy a comparatively mild temperalniv
Idle the cold I'olar curreni llowim.;' in a siuth-wcstcn
•cll-
lOlV'
direction from Spitzber^'en to -)an .\[ayeii and Iceland,
veys alniost everN yeai- to the easterti and northern si
• ►t'the island la re'e masses of drift-ice, whitdi sometime.^ >
Mot disap[«'ar bei'ore July or <'\en August, .\ccoriliiiu' ''^ 1'
1 llulM
K'eykj;
eni'dill
at Aki
llii> >|
latifudi
lU\t :
i/iflileiii
uiiiirr (
liaiid. i>
Icrioi' of
;iU'l, 't ■■ Si'iiK^ iiiii
ISay...^, 1.
iiu- iKinii:.; I . (■,.1, 1 ;
'^-
Till". WKATIIRK OF K'KLWii.
til
li-
'fii
lUS
yiit
III.'
liCll
•lieu
tlh
lU'l'll
L'S "ll
■',111 111
I lUi\
111
til'
lasiii.
iinti''
I'll
iior
Tii'il'stcii'^i'ii. llir iiii';iii iMiiMial 1 1 -Il I [m 'I'a 1 11 1'l ' of till' air al
i;c\kjavik is 4- 1" , !i;i(l llial "T the sea + \'2 . while ac-
cMfiliiiL;' 1<' lli'iTNdii Sclircli' tlic iiicaii aiiiiiial ti'i:i|)i'ralui'('
,i1 AlsK'NI'i' <'ll tilt' lldl'lh C'liist is Olllv -1- ^l^J , fluHlull l'\fll
a cdiiiiiarat i\('lv iniM cliiiiali' in so luLili a
1 Ill> >ll' i\VS
latitudi'.
Dili if Icclaiiil, iliaii]<s to its ins'ilar j;i'sij ion and to tin'
iiiliiiciirf (if the ( iiiir Stream, rciiiaiiis i'lvr iVniii tlic cxei'ssiw
u inter eoM <'f' t lie A reti(> colli iiiei its. its summer, on the other
li;iii(l. is iiiierior in waruith to that whirh rei'_;ais in tlie iii-
•rio
r of Sihrria, oi'of'the IliidsoiTs l!a\ territorii
Till' mean sumnier temperature at ]le_vl\'javik is not alxivu
: ■") 1 ; diiriiiL;' maiiv yeai's the thermometer ne\-er rises a
^iii^le time aliove -f '^'> ; sometimes even its maximum is
lint liiLi'liei' t han +■'»'•*; and on the iiorthei'ii coast, snow not
^'•Idniii falls f\'eii in the miihlle of siimuiei'. ('nder siicli
ririiiiii>taiices. ihe cultivation of tlie ctTciils is of course
iiiijinssiMe ; and when tlie drift-ice remains loii^'er tlian
tliern coasts, it [irevents e\en the L;i'owtli
a^-iial on llie noi
III rill
'jrass. and want and famine ai'e the eon.secjuen
ce
Tlie I<-elaiidie summer is tdiai'acterisod hy constant
ihaiiues in the wt>ather, rain contiirually alternating' with
.^iiiisliiiie, as with us in April. The air is hut seldom
ir;iiH|iiil. and storms of teri'itic violence are of freipieiit
ns.
Ill-Clll
I'ciice. Towards the end of S('[>temhei- winter l)e£i;"i
ii'i'i-i'iji '(
1 t'V mists, wiii(di (ilia 11 V descend in thicdc masses of
•iHiw. '{"ravellinn- over tlietiiduntain
ti'ack
is at this t im<
;ill;i. I |Mi'1i' nlaily danu'ertius. alth' ain-ii caiins or piles of sti iiic serve
t" |H.int out the way. ami here and tln're. .is over the passes
"till. AI[)S, small hut> ha\el)een erected Id Si'l'Ve;is a refu^'e
!''ir t!ic t ra\ellcr.
In former times, Iceland could hoa.>t of fM-e>ts. so that
"U-.'s ;it|il even ships used 1o lie hiiilt of indiu;'('noiis 1 imhei' ;
1 present it is almost eiitindy destitute of treis, for the
il\v;irf->lii'iilihevies here and there met with, where the hircli
i!'<lly atlaiiis the height ol' (wi^nty feel, are not to he din'-
lii'l with the name oi' woods. A service tree iSorlni.^
loll
rteeii feel lii-li. and ineasiiriiiL;' lhr<e ii.ch
es
li.iiiieier at the foot, is the hoast
ol I lie <j-t ivcruor s
ii'lcii at K'e\ kja \ i!\ ; it is. lio\ve\ei-. sur|>a>se>l \>\ ;iiiollier
fi'i
'I'liK I'oi.Ai; \\(ti;i,ii
ri vi'c, wliirh .siM'tMHs ii III
lit A1<
the u'l'iiiiiid, I)iit iii'Ncr
•ViiWll tWclltV I'l't'K tVnli
■^CCS 11^ Clllsll'
(it ii.Ti'ii'-^ niii'ii
ini
o sen I'll'
Tlh' (l;ini|) iiml cool Ict'liimlic sniiiiiicr, t1iMiii.ili it jircvciiN
I lie siici-cssriil cull iv;il ioiMif I'dvii, is t;i \ oiiriil)!(' t<> t lie L;r«»\vlli
<•(' '4T:iss('s, so 1 liiii ill souif ol' the licttrr Ihniis ilif |iiisiiii'i'
H'I'oiiikIs ai'c liiinllv inl'cridv lo ilic liiicsl imcskIows in I'vii'^liiiid.
Al)()ut one- third (»t' t lie ,sur(;ir(> oC tlu' ('((Uiit r_\ is covci-cd witli
vcy'ctnlioii of sonic sort or oilier, lit fortlu.' uoiirisliint'iit i4'
ciilMi'; Iml, lis yet, ;irl lins doih' little lor its iiii[iro\(Miit'iil
— |>lou<;'liiiiiH', sowiiiL;', driiiiiiiu'c, ;iiid levelling' liciiif^' t]iiii'_;>
iindrciiiiit of. Willi the exception ol' IIk^ L^'i'iisscs, wiiicji iii't-
of |>;iriiiiionnt iiiiportiincc, ;ind llie trees, uliicli, in s|)ili' n\'
their stniit<'d proiiortions, iire ol' i;reiil viihie. iis tliey sii|i|i|\
the isliinders willi (lie (diareoiil neede<l for shoeiiiL'; tlnir
horses, lew of tlu' indii^'onons plants of lcclaii<l are of aiiv
til
use
to man. The AuijiJlcd n I'dm iHjilifn i
s eaten I'aw \vi
hntter; tlie inatled roots or stems of the ,1/
' /( //''/( I III
lrih>lii(lii serve to pn'otect the l»ae!\s of \hr horses aj^'aiiist
the I'lilihin^' of th(> saihlh.' ; and the leelandie moss, ■\\liicli
is fr<'(|nently Vxiiled in i .illc. is likcAvise an article of cx-
povtation. Tlie want of better ^'rain fre([nently compels tlh'
poor islanders to hake a Iciiid of hread IVoni the seeds of tlic
sand-reed {l\h/mii^ (imiarn's)^ which on ourdnnesare niei'dv
picked by the hirds of passai^-e : and the oarweinl or tai
{fjii ni ijiiiriii ^iirrhd riii(i) is pri/ed as a veii'etable in a la
where potatoes and turnips are bnt rai'ely cultivated.
AVheii the first settlers came to Iceland, they found
two indi!4vnons l!ind-fpia<irn}>t_'ds : a species of lield-
i'''i''
ii'i
iiiii
[rrlrohi
ii'i'oiioniii^) an(
T the Arctic fov ; but tl
\e
le seas all'
shores \v<'re no donl)t tenanted l)y a larin-r miniber of wli;
<lolpliins, and seals than at the present -lay.
The ox, the she(>]). and the lun'se, which accompanied
Norse colonists to their new home, lorni the stajde weali
their descendants ; for the nuiiiher of those w ho live bv bri'i'il-
in;^' cattle is as three to one compared with those who cliict!}
depend on the sea for their sul)sistence. Milk and ^\\\>}
are almost the only bevi'ra'.'.'es of the Icelanders. AVitli'iu
Initter the\ will eat nolish ; and curdled mill<, whi(di tl
ie\ c,
Iresli III summer and jii-eserve in a sour state durinij;-
Ik
less
CIMKl, M(il»l'. n|- <|IKi;i' ,^ll i: \ |;i M ,
(V.\
iiii
I'll
til
lliv
■nl
(> 111
lu'ii
nil}
\vitli
vhicli
til.'
ICVi'lV
iin
;lll'l
1 lllI
-\l'
d til.'
11 1'
winti'i'. i^> llh'ir l;i\('iii'iti' r('|i-i'>l . 'I'Iiik llicv sd tlir liii^iicsl
\:l|i|,' nil tllrll' (■;it||c. ;iih1 ti'iid lllclll willl f!l<' i_;Ti M 1 1 '■-t fill'i'.
I n t 111- ]i|i'.S('l'\ 111 ii'iM il' t licil' ^1||'(■|. tlii'\ lire niiicli li;||ii|M'rc(l
li\ I In- liildlicss u('-t he (•liliiiilc. 1)\ tllf sen 111 ill('>s i^[' wiliti'V
[und. ;lll(l li_V till' lltlllcliS {>{' tlir <';lL;'lt'S, tin' IM \ ell-, 11 lid lilt'
tii.\rs. more [>iivliciil;irly iit Hie l;iiiiI»iiiL4' season, wlicii vasl
iiiiiiiImTs of 1 lie V(piiii'_j' aiiiiiiiils an' .■arrii'd dl]' liy all (if tin 'in.
Til-' wiinl is uol slicarrd oil'. Init Idi'ii iVnui tlic aiiiiiial's l)ark-.
Ill id wovi'ii ])y 1 he pcasa iili'y, dui'iiiu' t Ih' Imiui' wiiilci' <'\fiiiiiL;s,
iiiloa K'iiid (»(" foarsi" (dolli. or |<iiii into ^'lovcs and stnck'in'_;'s,
wliii'li I'dnii one (d'llic (diifl' avlicdcs *>\' > ,^|»(>i't.
•Wdiilcal liiTakl'asl,'' says ]\Ir. She|))t.i'd. ' we wit nrsscd Hie
|. r|;iiidi<- nil llind (if slioep-slicariiiL;'. 'riiivc or four ]>o\vor-
fii! yoiiii',;- woiiicii soi/(>d, and easily throw ipii llu'ir Kadcs, the
viii|u-n|ii|M' viclinis. Tlie li'^'s were then tied, and llie woid
|iillli'i| oil' hy main force. It seemed, fi'oill llie eoiit oi't ions
ef ^ollie o|' t lie wrelclied a nimals. to he ;i rniel met III 'd ; hill
we were lold that there is a [leriod in the year when the
\(>uii'_;' wool, heo-iiinilln' to ^row, pushes IJie old ollt hefofe if.
Ml tli.il the old coat is easily pulled out.'"- The iiuinher of
heaiN of caltle ill the i-laud is ahoilt Kl.OO!^ <liat of llie sheep
.',IHI.(IIM).
Tile horses, whicdi niimher from -ji^Odd to (»o.()(i(i, thou^li
small, are wry robust tnul hardy. There hein^' n,, wheel
(.•arriiin-es cm tlu^ island, Ihey are merely used for ridiuf^- and
lis hea^^ts (if luirden. Their servieos are iudispeusahle, as
t them tlie Icelanders would not have the means of
1U4' and earrvhi<4' theii- produce to the fishiiiL;' vilhm'(>s
It iiiiii
a'.i'lli
IT ports at wliicli the annual sujijilii's arrive IVoiii ('(•pen-
lui-vn. Fu winter tlie poor aniuiuls must lind their own food,
lave cousequeiitly mere skehitous i;> sprini^-: they, 1
:lll
I ■. •■! . SI
l(»W-
tll<
)oii recover in summer, though e\-eu then they have
ii'itiruiL;' whatever hut tin' L;'rass and small jdants which the}'
'in ]iirk ii[> on lite hills.
'flii' (loLi's are vt.'rv similar to those of La[iland and (Jreen-
iii.il. Like tlieiii 1 he \ have loiiL;' hair, forming' a l<iiid of
'•'•ilar reiiinl the needs, a [>oiiiled nose, poiiiti'il ears, and an
'■leva t I'll cm led tail, with a liMiiper whii li may he idiaracteri>ed
as ivstless and irritahle. Their u'eiuM'al colour is white.
Til.' N.irili-W,-.ir,'ii !', niii<iil,i ut' li'i'laii.l. l.S'i
fi4
TMi: rm.Mi uiMJi.i*.
Ill llic vciir 1770. tliirt"rii rriiidcri' wci'c I»i'(iii<4li1 t'lnm
N*»r\\ii V. 'I'l'ii <>r t In '111 ilii'il I hiring' t In- |i;i-s;i '.:•'■• '"il • li"' t liiri'
IIkiI siii'\i vi'il li;i\<' Miiill iitlird so tiisl lli;il \;\V'_:;r herds iinw
riiiiiii oyer 111!' iiiiiiiliiiMlcd \v;islt's. Diiriiie' tlic wilder. wIhh
Imiigcr drives llieiii into ilie lower distrids, llicy :nv I'lv.
<|U('ii11y shot ; liut no at ten i] its hiivc been math' f o laiiie Ihriii.
lor tlioiudi iiidisi-'ciisaMc to tiic ]ja|iiaiidei'. thoy a I'e (piitr
supei'lliious in Icchiiid, whii di is too i-ue-.'^ed and too mncli
iiitei'siM'lt'd l)_v streams to admit (d' s]cdL>'inj4'. They are. iii
ra(d, g'onc'i'iilly coiisiilei'cd as a iiuisaiicc. as they eat away Ww
Ictdaiidic iiios^^ wliitdi the ishinders woiiM williiiedy ]<eej^) Inr
tlieir own use.
The I'ohir hear is liut a casual \isitor in letdaiid. Ahniit
a dozen conic dril'tine' every year with the ice [Vtnii .liiii
Miiycii, or »S[)it/berL;'eii, to llic iiorthei'ii shores. IJa\eiieiis
witli liiiii'_;er. t hey immediatidy atta(d< the lii'st licr<]s tluy
mcH't with; but their i'avaL;'<'s do n<d last !ou<j'. lor tlii'
n('i<4"hl)ourhood, arising; in arms, soon puts an end to tlicjr
existence.
Til letdand tlie oi'iiit holoeist lliuls a ri(di Tudd for lii^
linourite study, as lliere are no less than ('iu'lity-t wo dillerciit
species of iudi^'eiious birds. besi<les tweuty-oue that are only
casual visitors, and six that liave liecii introduced by man.
The swampy <^Touiids in the iiiteri(!i' of the country ai'i'
peopled with lei^'ions of g'ohleii and Kiiii^ [)lovers, of sni[ii'>
and red-shanks; the lakes abound with swans, (hudcs, ami
•^■eest' of various kinds; tlie snow-bunting' enlivens llif
solitude (d* the roidcy wilderness willi his li\(d\ note, iUul.
wdiere\er grass grows, tlie common l>i[»it [Aul/i'is ynv^/f //.svV
builds its neat little nest, well lined with horse-hair. Lib' |P
the lark, lie rises singing from the ground, and fre(pieiitl;i
surprises Wu' traveller with his melodious warlding, wliid: |
M"ck of d
k-alLs Jier ;
h"n lea the]
'<-ni.'l rel.he
<!'"'jUcJltlv
hr\r
10 r(
sol
uids doubly sweet in tlie lifeless waste.
The eider-du(d< holds the tirst rank amonu' the useful bi
ni>
iii'lnt-e lif.,.
>f Iceland. Its (diitd' breeding-pltiees are small flat islands ■|B>;iri,irdardi
on various parts cd' the coast, where it is sab' from the attarl- |^ il.^' nei'j]
of the Arctic fox, .suidi as Akurey. I'datey, and \'idey, wliiil
from its vicinity to I'eykjavik. is frequently visited I'
tra\ellers. All these l)n'ediiig-[daces are private pro|ici'f'.
and several 1ia\e bi-en for centuries in Die possessi(iii <•! ll^
■ noi'iii (,
^\^ Vc-WerU s
|'''i^''to!l' 1,0
|}|{i;i:i>iM. <»i' (;ii)i:i;-iir( K,^
C5
Dili
IITr
IliiW
lien
ItV-
irlii.
iiuii
r. Ill
I. r.v
IhiIU
all
iMli'll^
11
li'V
till ■if
111' II!
i only
•V aiv
i<. :iu<l
th.-
/, ii-<i''
lli'llliv
Wlurl
11 In;-.
SKll
'■"
tt,M
!■>
vlii
m1
,1 ,. '1
1,.
•t\.
>;iiiii' ruiiiilics. wliii'h, (li;iiiKs In flic liirds;, ni'r iiliioiiM- tlic
wciltliii'st nl'tli'' liiihl. It iiiiiv ciisilv 1m' iiii;iL;iii''<l tliiil tin'
liili'i-ijiicks iiii' Li'iiiinlfil witli tliciiidsl s('(lii|(Mis cure. Who-
.•vi'i' Idll^ one is (ilili^'cd to jMv a Him' of tliii'f y (jollnrs ; ami
I he -.rd'ct ill:;' of an c'li'l;', orllir ]iockct iiii;' of a I'l'W ijow ns. is
|iiiiii-lir(l w it li all till' riii'oiii' of llic law. 'I'lic cliid' occiipa-
lioii of ^If. Str|tli('Msoti, the a'.;'('(l jiroprii'toi' of N'idt-y. who
a lo I II' oil t he islet . is to I'xaiiiiiH' t hroiiL^h his Icli'scopt'
nil ilh' lioals thai a ]i|>roa(li. so as lo hcsiiiT that tlicri' arc no
<j-iiiis mi lioard. DnriiiL;' the hrccdin^' season no one is allowed
|c lanij w it ho! it his special |»eniit--sioii. and all noise, shoiit ini;',
nr Joihl >| leaking' i.s sti'iet l_v proliihited. I5nt. in s|iitc (»!' these
(|\\.
|ii'cc.iiitious, wo a
re iii(oi'iiie(| li\- recent travellers th
liittcrly the e'reatci" part ol' the dinks of V'idcy JiaNc liccii
tempted to leave their old (|n;ii'ters for the iicieldiouriii^'
KiiLiey, wh(.ise proprieloi' hit upon the plan of layiiiLi' hay
upuii the strand so as to all'ord them li'i'cater facilities for
licst-huildiiiL;'. The cidci'-down is easily collected, as the hirds
lU'e (jiiite tame. The jcinale ha\inL;' laid hve or six [lale
ii'ri'i iii>li-oli\t' eee's. in a nest tiiiid\lv lin<'(l with her lieaiitifnl
■relil ^H *'"^^'"' ''"■ *'""''''^"''^'' "'''■'' ♦■ili'i'llllly l'emo\iiiL:' the hil'd, Idl)
the nest nf its contents, after which they rep1a<-e her. >She
then hi'L'iiis to lay afresh, tlion^'li this time only three or fonr
t'L;'t.',s. and aL;'ain lias reconi'si' to the down on her hody. iJnt
^'"1"'' ■Hill']' urcedy per.^eentors onee moi'e riile her nest, and oMi^-e
iher 1
o line
it for Ihc third time. X
ow. iKtwever, Her o\vn
^tei'k of down is exliaiisted, and with a plaint ive voice sin
ui'l- ^^|i"il'> h''r mate to lier assistance, who willingly [:Incks tin
pmf fi/atliers from liis hreast to snpjtly the del
icien<-\-
Ijilcc B l| l|(.'rucl rehlici-y he a^ain re[>eated, which in former tim
f t
es was
ii'iliieiitly the case, the poor eider-dindc ahandons tlie>p(.t,
ii'Vr]' to return, and seeks for a new honn' wliere she may
iii'liiiu'e her nr.iternal instinei nmlisturbed.
Mr. Sliepherd thus descril»es his visit to Vier in the
kati;ii'dardjn[», tnu' id' the head-(|iiarters (d'tlie eidei'-diick in
■|!i<' Mortli of Iceland: — "■As the island was ajipro.udieil. we
u -.ee am
t
ks n]»on flocks of the sacred Inrds, and eoiddhear
' u' coiiiiiu's at a gri'at distance. Wo laiidi'd on a rocky
A\;ivi'-W(irii slnire, ti'^aiiist which the waiei's scarcely rippled,
J I'i >i't nIV {.<> investi^'ate t he i^laml. 'J'lie >jiofe was the most
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23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y 14580
(716) 872-4S03
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f)G
TIIH VOLMi WOULD.
woiidcrfiil oniitliolojjrical ni^hi coneelvublc. The <luc'l\s jiiid
their iicsls wen' everywlicre in a iDiiiinor that was (|uiti'
ahinnin;;-. (Jivat brown dneks sat upon their nests in
masses, an<l at every stop started up from (Uider our feet. It
was witli <lit!i('nltv that we avoided treadinj' on some of tin-
nests. The island bein;,' but three-quarters <»f a mile in
width, the oppctsite sliore was soon reached. On the coast
was a wall built of larj>e stones, just above the hi^h-watii-
level, about three fi'et in hei;;ht and of considerable thitlv-
ness. At the bottom, on both sides of it, alternate stoius
had been left out, so as to form a series of square compart-
ments for the ducks to make their nests in. Almost evt r\
compartment was occupied; and, as we walked alou}^" tlif
shores a lonj,^ line of ducks tlew <mt one after another. Tlio
surface of the water also was perfectly white with drakes, wlm
welcomed their brown wives with loud and clamorous cooing.
WluMJ we arrived at the farmhouse we Avere cordially wel-
comed by its mistress. The house itself was a ^reat marvrl.
The eartheii wall that surrounded it and the window em-
brasures were occupied by ducks. On the ;^ri»iuid, the housi'
was frinj^ed with ducks. On the turf-slopes of the roof \\v
could see ducks ; and a duck sat in the scraper.
' A orassy bank close by had been cut into square ])atelirs
like a chess-board (a square of tin-f of about ei^'hteen incite
bein<^ removetl, and a 1k>1I«»w made), and all wen» tilled with
ducks. A windmill was infested, and so were all the nut-
lumses, mounds, rocks, and crevices. The ducks were even-
where. Many of them were so tame that we could stmki'
them (»n their nests ; an<l the jjfood lady told us that tlur
was scarcely a duck on the island which would not allow li' :
to take its e^-n^s without lllnht or f«'ar. "When she lii'v
l>ecanie possessor of the island, the produce of down fntni tli
ducks was not mor<> than litteen pounds wei<>-ht in the vi'ur.
but under her careful nurture of twenty years it had risen t '
nearly one hundred pounds annually. It requires alxtut eii'
pound and a half to make a coverlet for a single ))ed, and tin
down is worth from twelve to fifteen shillin^i's per poutid. Me<
of the e^^s are taken and ]»ickled for winter consumptieii.
one or two only bein^ left to hatch.'
Thou;.>h not so important as the eid<'r, the other m<Mnltti«
"f fli«' (
til.' laK-
lile.My\
(lie ( 'Mu-.
tlie cdii
>eaup-di
;ni(! |,re.«
I'.leKed i
The .
leatlicrs,
liiiiifsiiiai
I'lMeivisIl
li.ers. wl
ill l.ii-yc t
'•losely til
"i Mind. 1'
u il li s. iff
•Mi;!-!: ||;i^
"Willi, 1111,1
\"!(e i,r t
"!' wllduj, :
'■>y. Ir li
''•el;|||,l_ ^y
'ii;l( reiM^ii.
riie rav(
' li''ir ViiiiiH
■'■ riv.I;iti..|
I '■■!'■> (,, u)
"" 'Ih' living
'■ '''l' r i-; iir
■ l:l\el|. 'J
• ' I' ''Iiiii(ii(
' '■ iiii,I<]|,.
^' 111 l,ru\v,|
1 ••ell.l ,,(■ J
> "1 >i/,e. ai
[ In ilie ^In
I!IKI>S Ol' ICKI.ANh.
b7
.i|" till' tlM<l< fiiiiiilv wliK'li (Inriii",' tlic siiininor soasoii ciiUvt'ii
til'' liikt's iiihI swiiiiiiis of [('('l:iu<l iirc very siM'vict'nbh'. On
til"' Mvviitii. or (Jiiiit L;ikt'. one of'ilu'ir chief i»l:i!'<'s of rosort,
Ihc t'M^s of lilt' loii;jf-<;iilt'(l dtU'lc, tlic wild dlK'k, tlif scoter,
till' coimiion ^'oosiiiKlcr. tlic rt'd-l>rciisttMl iiicr^;iuser, the
xiiiili-fliick, Ac., jiiid oilier iuiseriiies are ciirefully ^'alhered
and |ii"eserved in «'norinous ((uantiiies for tlie winter, closely
pacKed in a line ;_;Te_v volcanic sand.
The wild swan is fn'(|ueiitly shot or can^hl for his
feathers, whi(di lirin;^' in nnmy a dollar i(» the lortnnate
liiinisinan. This nol»h« hii-d frecjnents botli the salt and
l>iMil\ish waters alony- the coast, and the iidand lakes and
li.i rs, where it is seen either in single j»airs or con;^'re;^ated
ill lar;^-e Hocks. To hnild its nest, which is sai<l to resend)le
closely that of the llaniini^tt, heinii* ii hn'-jfe nn>nnd, composed
ofnind. iMishes. j^-rass, and stones, with a cavity at top lined
uiili soft down, it retires to some solitary nninhahited spot.
.Mi;ili Ii;i< heen said in ancient times of the siii^in;;' of the
-wan, antl the heanty of its dyin;^' notes; Imt, in truth, the
\iii(e of the swan is very lond, shrill, and harsh, thoni^li
win 11 liii^h in the air, and niodnlated hy the winds, the note
di' whoop of an asseinl.lan'e of them is not nnpleasant to th(^
riir. It has a i*ecnliar (diarm in the nnfrecpuMited wastes of
Ictlaiid. wliei'i' it a;_;i'<'eaMy interrnjds the profotnid silence
tluit reiu'iis ai'onnd.
The raven, one of tln^ comnumost land-l»irds in Ie(dand. is
III! iil.ji'ct of aversioi! to the islanders, as it not oidv sei/es on
t li'ir youn;^' lamlts and eider-dncks, hnt also coinmits n-reat
<!' pi'i diitiotis amon^" the lishes laitl out to dry npon the shoi-e.
1 'nil's to which dead ravt'ns a I'e attached, to serve as a warning"
tn till' liviii'j. are fre( jnently seen in the meadows ; and the Icc-
iiiM'li r i-< never so ha])py as when he has sneceeded in shooting';
!i i:i\')i. 'i'liis. however, is no easy tasK-. as no Itird is more
cautidMs. and its eyes are as sharp as those of the ea<^le. < >f
iill 1« ilaiidic Itirds, the raven breeds the earliest, layinii" ahont
[till' iiiiil(]le of March its live or six ]>ale-M'reen en-o-s s[>otted
hvitli tiiipvii in the inaccessible crevices of roidvs. 'l'owar<ls
lllii' ml of June, l^rever saw manv \oiiiii'' ravens ii-rown to a
1^1 i"l >']/.''. and but iittle inferior to the old ones in cnnnin-^'.
Ill ihc i^dtxtiny Scandinavian mythology the raven occupies
r2
I i
!
cvoniii^' iM'n-Iu'd iijioii Odin's slidiiMfrs («• whisper Hit.' in'ws
in his oar: tht'iianie (>f(»ne was ///'<//'//, or spirit: ol' iht'otlnr.
Miiiiiiii. or nn'Uiory. Mvcii now many siqicrstititms nutinns
roniaiu iittachocl to tlic raven ; lor the lc"hni»lers l»elieve this
bird tit l)e not oidy aciinainled with wiiat is ;^'oin;4' on a1 ;i
distance, hut also with what is t^) ha])j»en in future, an<l ;iiv
convinced that it ioretells wht'n any of a family is ahout in
die, by pcrchin;^' on the roof of the house, (»r wheelin;^' toiiikI
ill the air with a oitntinual cry, varyiiij^' its voice in a singular
and inclotlious manner.
'J'he white-tailed sea-ea;^;le is not uuconimon in Icelnm!.
wlieic he stands in <'vil repute as a kidnaitpci- of lambs aii'l
I'ider-tbuk's. lie is sometimes found dead in the nets of tlir
(ishcrinen ; for. [louncin^* npon a Innhloek or salmon, he p't.-
entaiiu'lcil in the nu shcs, and is unable to extricate himsi'lf.
'JMie skins of the bird, which seems to attain a lar^^'ei" si/r
than in (Ireat Jhitaiu, m<»st liki'ly from beiu;^' less distmUiJ
by man.ai'esold at Jieyk javik and Akureyro fur from three to
six rixdollai's.
The Jerfalcoii (I'uli-n ,ii/r/<ilri>), <^'eiicrally consi(h'red as ih-
bohb'st and most beautiful of the l;iK-on trihe, has its lic;M-
(juartei's in Iceland. As Ioul;' as the uoble sport of falcoiin
was in fashion, forwlTudi it was highly esteemc(b theli;i'l'
in faU'ous was worth from 2(H)(> to :|(»ii() rixdolI;;vs anunal!;
tt» the islanders, and even now lii'^h prices are i>aid for it 1a
Mu^lish amateurs.
The rai'est bird of Ici'land. if not entireh c\tinct, i> tli
H.ll
•^•iant-auk', or (birfui;l. The last jiair was cauiiht al
seventeen years a^'o near the ( leirfu!.;laskers, a ^riMin '■
sollt iry rocks t > the south of the \Vestinaii Isles, its ciil;
]<nown habitat besides some similar (ditfs on the north-ea>lin.
coast. Since that time it is said to ha\(' been seen by >Miir
lishermen : but this testimony is exii'cmely doubtful, and tin'
([Ue^liou of its existence can only l>e sohdl by a visit te tli'
( Jeirfu'_;"lasker.> themselves —an nuileitakiiiL;' whiih. if i'lM-
ti.;d.|e
a- (li.'s,
' ahii w
'li'clivit
•ippi'oac
III Is.
llic iiHe
I lie nejo
li'T sdiri
>e\.M'a| J
'liaii Msi
\\i'l'<' e(j||
.III h-e|;i
Thr M-jji,
ilH'lies ai
"l>!i(jii,.|v
intTe sfui
|"'iiiids h;
"I ;iii\ (itl
'111' /iMll,,.
■ 'ilia ;m i>
The wat
"lily Mippl
l'iiriii>|| til,
I'll! al.vn II
■•'<"» Frenc
'■'''•\VS illii,
''|'i"'''""aiic(
|Mltir|||,,,-|.
'•"iiiitry: t|
'ii'tid. I. Ill
ii'iuvrn til
''"■ IH'|-t||..l-
''"■> run to
iimiv.
Til.' ire];,
'"'b ill .liiii,
'"''iii'l. uji..
'li^Iiirts ,,f|
"'■''"•scils.
TIIK (ilANT-Al'K.
ro
m
til ;il»|t' ;i( nil. is ;i1t»'inlt'<l witli rxtrciiu.' (lifliriillv iunl (liiii'^'cr.
;i> tllisi' l-ncKs ilVf «'<>lll|»l»'tflv isiililtrd ill lilt' s»';i. Avllicll CVfll ill
liiliii wciitlicr Iirt'iiks uitii siirli violt'iicc u'^aiiisl 1 licir ulu'Upf
■ l''ili\ it it's tiiiit tor vfid's it iiiust itt- ;iI)S(»lMlt'|y iiiiiM>ssil>li' ti>
;iji|iri>iK'li thciii.
Ill JSoS t\vi» Kii^'lisli iiiitMriilistsdt'tcriiiiiH'tl :\\ K'iist t<> iiiiikt^
tlif ;itt('iii|tt. iiiid sfttlt'fl I'll- tilt' st'sistdi in ii siiiiill liiUiilct »»li
till' ijciLflilKuiriii^' ctiiist, ciiLft r to M'i/c tlif liist oj»j»t>rlniiity
t"r sitinniiii'' llic ( ifirfiii-Ts strtiiiLilioltl. 'i'lu-v \v;iitt'<l tor
>i\< rill iiioiillis. l»iil ill viiiii. tilt' stormy siiiiiiiu'r itfiiii;' iiion'
iliiiii nsiiiillv uiiliivoiiniUlt' for tlifir imtlfrtiiKiiiu- : iiikI thcv
wiif f(jually unsueeossful in tlie north, wliitlicr tlicy Iunl scut
all Ir.'laiitlio stiitK'ut siM't-iiilly instructed tor the i»uritos«'.
Tli«' uiiiiit-iiuk is three feet hi^h, imd has a hlaek hill toiu-
iiirln's and a ((uarter lonj^-, hctth inandihles heiii^' crosHed
(il'li(|ni'ly with several ritl|4;es ai.d furrows. Its wiii;^"s are
iiiiie stmiijts, like those of tht^ Antaretie i»eiiu;uiiis. Thirty
|Miiiii(ls have lt«'en paid for its e^'^', which is larfjer tliaii that
n| ;iii\ other FiUrojM'an hird ; and there is no kii(»win!4" the jn'ict^
ilii' /onloo'ical Stx'iety avouIiI |iay tor a live hird, if this truly
• iiii;i avis ' ctaild still he touiiil.
'riif waters of icelainl aht)uud wit h excelli'iit lish which not
I'lily siipitly the islanders Avith a ^'reat ['art tif their fot»d iiiiil
l'iiriii>li tlicni with one t»f their chief artitlcs of ex[>ttrtatii.>n,
liiit ;il>o attract a nunihcr of foreiti'ii scainen. 'rims ahtiiit
• I'l" rrriich. hutch, anil Bel^'ian lishing sloops, nianiied with
ricws iiiiiount iiii;" in all t(» 7<MMJ jiieii. annually make their
;i|i|H';irance (»n tlic^ southei'n ant] westfi'ii coasts tif Iceland,
I'lii'ticiilarly those of the ( JulilhriiiLi'e Sv>.>.'l.t>r -^oM-lirin^in^-
cull
iitrv: thus naiiictl. not from anv cvitltiK
■t;d. hut from til
>ld.
il-harvests ri
.1
t he precious
III! till, iiiit trom tlie ui"<>l<teu ct>ii-narvesis reap"ii on its shores.
Ili'luriii thirty and forty English tisliiii'_;--smatks Nearly visit
til ■ imitliern coast. \Vhen they have ol'tained a <_i-iMid cnr^'o
'Ihv mil tt> Shetland t(.> discharL^'c it, aiitl retiii-n au'ain for
iiinr,..
Til.' Icelandic fishintr-season, wliicli heninsin Fehrnarv ami
' !iiU ill . I line, occupies one-half of the male inhahitants of the
"laiiil. who come flockiiin'to the west, even from the rennttest
'iMilrts of the north ami east, io partake of the rich harvest
t tile sciis, Manv thus travel for more than "J'mi miles, in
70
TIIK I'()I,.\1I WOULD.
tli<' ini<lst of winter, wliilf the slunii liowls ovi-r the iiiik.-.l
waste, iiiu\ tlie [>ule smi searcely dispels lor a lew Imiirs llic
darkness »•(' the nii^'ht. In everv lint wiiei-e tliey tarrv un
tliei-(»ail they are weletMne, and havehnt rarely to j»ay t'ortlnii'
entertainment, for hospitality is still reel«»ned a duty in In-
hiiid. On reachin^x <'"' tishin^^-statiou an agreement is sumi
made with the [H'oprietor ()f a hoat. 'i'hey usually eni^a^i' to
assist in (ishiuLf l'r(»Mi Fehruai'v \1 to M;\\ 12, and receive in
return a share of the fish which they lu'lp to catch. I)esi.li>
forty pounds of tlour and a daily allowance of sour cuids
or ' skier.'
All tlie men l»elon<j^in^' to a hoat n'l'uei'ally live in the saiin'
ihimp and narrow hut. At davhreak thev launch forth to
hrave for many hours the inclemencies of the weather and llif
sea, and while en;4-ai>'ed in their hard day's work their sn|,'
refreshment is the (diewin;^' of tobaeeo or a, mouthful of skier.
( )n returniu'.;' to their c<»mfortless hut, their sui)[»er consists
of tht! Hshes of iuferi(»r (piality they may have cauyht, oinf
the heads o!' the cod or lin^", which are too valuahle tnr
their own consumption. These are split open and hunj^- ujhui
lines or ex[Mised on tlie shore to the cold winds and the lidt
sun; this renders them perfectly hard, and they kee[) >j: I
for years. In this dried state the cod is called stocklisli,
About the middle of Mav the minratorv tislu'rmen return to
their homes, leavin<4" their fish which are not yet quite drv t
ih»' care <»f the lishermen dwellin<f »»n tl
le s
pot,
Lowar(
i"ee<>vered
Is th.
middle of June, when the hoi-ses have so far ree">vered tVniii
their loni,' winter's fast as to be able to bear a li»ad, they cmiie
back to fetch tlu'ii stocklish, wliich they c(»iivey either to tlnir
own h(»mes for the c(»nsumption (»f their own families, oi- t^
the nearest ]><)rt for the purpose of bartering- it against oi
il.'V
ar
tici
es.
Haddocks, tiattish, and herriiiiis are al
so VtTV
abuiahint in the Icelandic seas; and alon^- the northern iuul
nortli-western coasts the baskiiij^- shark is hiry-ely lisheil tur
all the summer. Stnuiy; hooks baited with mussels or pieci^
of tish, and attached to chains anch(»red at a sh(»rt distiimv
fnun the shore, serve for the capture of this monster, which i^
scarcely, if at all, inferior in si/e t(> the white shark, thoiiir'.i
not nearly so formidable, as it randy attacks num. Tin
ateii liv
skin serves for makiny; sandals ; thee
Hiirll
oarse
flesi
I IS e
KISIIHUIKS 01' ICKLANI).
71
til • isliiiidcis, whom noct'Hsity liiis tjiu^ht not to bo ovt'niicc
in tlh'ir t'ooil; and the livtT, the most valuablt' part, is stownl
In) tin- sake ot" its oil.
• \Vf liatl observed,' says Mr. Sb('i>lit>rd, 'that th«^ horrible
>iiirll which iiitt'stt'd Jsa-fjordr varied in intensity as we
;i|.|iii»aihed or recede*! tV(»m a certain bhielv-h»okin^' bnildin<;
III the northern r]u\ (»t" the t«>wn. On in vest i^'at in ;^" this
liiiildinu'. we discnv«'red that the seat of the snu'Il was to bo
li'iiiiil in a mass of j»ntrid sliarks' livers, pait of which were
iiinlcrLToini; a process ol'stewinjjf in a hn^-e copper. It was a
ii-pjsdnic i4ieen mass, t'eart'nl to contemphite. The place was
iiidiiialdc (tidv tor a tew seconds; vet dirtv-h»okin<>' men
-tilled up the mass witli lon^' p(»les, and seemed to en joy the
ii'i'kiii<4" va[tonrs.'
ic sa
Inion of* [cehmd, wliich formerlv remained nndii«
til
il»cd by the phlei^niatic inhabitants, are now can^lit in
liiiu'c numbers tor the Jiritish market. A small riv»'r b«'ariiijx
tlic si;4iiilicant name of Laxaa, or
Sal
mon-riv«'i',
las been
iviited for th<' trilling sum of lOd/. a year by an Kni;lisli
ruiiipauy, which sends every sprin<^ its agents to the spot
well provided with the best Hshin^- apparatus. The captured
ti<li are immediately b(»iled, and hermetically packed in tin
Im.xcs, so that tliey can be oaton in London almost as fresh
as if they had just been cani^dit.
TIk' mineral kiuj^'dom contributes but litth» to the pros-
it litv of Iceland. It affords neither metals, nor precious
■itiiiies. nor ro(dv-salt, i
lor C(
)al ; for the seams of ' snrtur-
luMiid,' or ' li;4'nite,' found here and there, are too nn-
iiiilMiftaiit to be worked. The solfataras of Ivrisuvik and
llus;ivik, thou^'h extremely interestiiiu;' i<> the oenloM-ist,
likewise '"urnish sul[»hur in t<»<» impure a c(mdition or too
tliiiilv scattered to afford any prospect of beiny' worked with
Miiress, not to me!iti<»n the vast expense of transport over the
iiliiiHsf imi>assable lava tracts that separate them from the*
ii'iiicst ports. In 1S:)1>-K), when, in consequence of the
iiiMiii.|.(ily granted by the Neapolitan ;4"overnment to a French
'■"iiijiaiiy. sulphiM" had risen to mt»re than three' times its
usinil jiricc, Mr. Kniid.sen, an entt'rprisin;^- Danish merchant,
umli'itook to work the mines of Krisuvik, but even then it
Would u«,t answer.
72
Till', INM.Ai: \V(»|{|.|).
Ill l>i*»'.» ii liOiidoii ((iiniiiinv. roimdcd liyMf. liiisliliv. wlm
havinn" <'\|tli>r('(l tlic siiljiliiir districts, li;i<l niisctl ^irnt i\-
pcctiitioiis (III \vli:i( lie coiisitlcftMl tlicii' <l<>niiiiiil wt'iillli.—
renewed lln' iitteiiipt, l>ul iil'tei" ii yejir's Iriiil it wiis iilciiidoin d
lis iierlectly li.ipeless. Tlie ' soUiiliirils of leeliilid,' siiys I'lu-
I'essdV Sartoriiis of Wiiltersliiiiiseii, ' ciiiiiinl ('(niipete with
lli«»se of Sielly. wlieve iin»re sul|»liiir is Wiiiilonly wiisted iiinl
li'oddeii under foot tliiin nil Iceland possesses. While tin
" Niiiiiiirs "' ol' tile iiuitli, wliieli are lar richer ihiin tiinsr
<>r K'risnvik, annnally Inrnish scarcely nioi-e llian leii Inns.
the sul[thur mines ol' Sicily |tiodnce at least '»(>,(►(>(>, and. if
uecossary, could <'asily expui't duuhle the (piantity.'
As e >al is too e,\j»onsi\e a fuel for any l)nt the rich in tin'
small seaptirt towns, aiul [teat, thon;4;h no thadit abundantlv
scatter*'*! over the island, is dii^- only in a tew places, tlir
majority of the }>eo[>le make use of singular suhstitiito.
The conimoiK st is dried cow's and sheep's dun;^' ; hut niiiiiv
a poor lisherman lacks even tliis 'spicy' material, and i>
fain to use the hones of animals, the sl<eletons of Hshes or
dried sea-hirds, which, with a stoical contempt for his olfiK-
tory origans, he burns, fi'athers and all. Thoro is, howevii'.
no want (d' fuel in those privilo<jfed spots where driftwood is
found, and here the lava hearth of the islander clicerfiillv
bla/os either with the ]»iii(^ conveyed to him by the kiiidlv
Polar currents from the Siberian forests, <»r with Sdiiir
tri)pical trunk, wafted by the Clulf Stream over the Atlantic
to his northern home.
iQ Ei'.Icr-duck.
fi^^r:- -.i -V -J
llovdu-Brcid, I'fuin i:i<ib»ci.
CI I A ITER VI,
HISTORY OK ICKLAXI).
|ii«,.ivin- "f till' I-ImiuI !'}• NiuMnilr in Sfil — fiarilMr- Mnki nt' llic niiviiii — In^olfr
Mini l.cit' — rilliiit llir L;i\\::iv(i' — 'I'lu' AllliiiiLT 'riiiiiL'S.iIlM liil I'ljihirtimi nt'
(liiM^tianitv \hU) till' l.-liiii(i - -l''i'tilirii'k the S.-ixiui ;iiiil 'i'linruali! I lie 'I'ravi Her
'I'liaii!.'' rai»<l — Gdlilfii Atri' nf li'ihimlii' Lilfraturu - Snnrri Stdrlcson — The
I-laiul Mil'iiiits to llakoii, Kiiiii; iit' Norway, in TJol -Lniiix Siri(Mit' (.'alriiiiitics
— (ircat l-]nii>li(Hi of llu' Skapta .I('ikiill in I'lSi'J— CuiiiiiU'rcMJil 3Iuiiii[Mily —
I'x It. r 'rimes ill Prospect.
^pilK Xor.so vikings weiv, as is well known, the boltlost of
I navio-ators. Tlu'y possossod nt'itlici' the sextant nor the
euni|tass; they had neither charts nor chrononit'it'rs to <4'ui(h'
ilhiii; hnt trusting- solely to fortune, and to flicir own in-
iloniitahle eonray;e, they fearlessly launched forth into the
\;ist ocean. Many of these intrepid corsairs were no donht
l">t nn their adventurous expeditions, hut frequently a favour-
;ihl<' chance rewarded their temerity, either with some rich
liiMity or sonu> more j^'lorious discovery.
'fhus in the year S(il, Naddodr, a Norwegian ]>irate,
while sailing- from his native coast to the Faeroe Islands, was
ihit'ti'd hy contrary winds far to the north. For several days
iKi land was visible — nothin;^ but an interminable waste of
waters; when suddenly the snow-clad mountains of Iceland
74
TIIK rOI.AIl WOULD.
w«»r«» seen to rise al)(>V(' ilir mists of tho ocraii. Soon iif*l< r
Naddiulr landed with i>art of his eivw, hut discovt'i'cd no
traces of mail in the desert eoiintry. The viking' tarried hiif
a sh(»rt time on tliis un]>romisin<,' eoast,oii which he hostowcil
the ai»i>r<»|»riate name of Snowland.
Three years later, (lardar, another northern freehoottr,
while sailing' to the Jlehridea, was likewise driven l>v storm v
weathtM* to Iceland. He was the first circiimnavi^nitor i>{'
the island, which he called, after himself, (Jardar's h(»lm. i>r
the ishind of (hirdar. On his return to his native port, lie
«;avo his countrymen so ilatterin;^ an account of the newly
discovered land, that Floki, a famous viking', resolved to
s«'ttle there. Trusting to the aiif^ury of birds, Floki took
with him three ravens to direct him on his wav. Haviiiy;
sailed a certain distance beyoiul the Faeroe Islands, he •.'live
liberty to one of them, which imnu'diately returned to the
land. Proceedin^^ onwards, ho loosed the second, which, afttr
circling for a few minutes round the ship, a^'ain settled on
its cao-i', as if terrified by the boundless expanse of the s<';i.
The third bird, on obtaining; his liberty a few days later,
proved at len<^th a faithful pilot, and rtyiiijLr direct to the
North, conducted Floki to Iceland. As the sea-kin<jf eiiteivd
the broad bav, which is bounded on the left bv the huuv
Snafells Jiikull, and on the right by the bold promontory <>t
the Guldbrinj^e Syssel, Faxa,oiieof hiscoinpanioiis, reniarktil
that a land with such noble features must needs be of ctni-
siderable extent. To reward him for this remark, which
flattered the vanity or the ambition of his leader, the hay
was immediately named Faxa Fiord, as it is still called to
the present day. The new
dance ()f tish they found in
colonists, attracted l)y the abun-
the bay, built their huts on the
borders of a small outlet, still bearing" the name of Rat'iiii
Fiord, or the Raven's Frith; but as they neg;leeted to makt'
hay for the wintt.'r, the horses and cattle they had broui;lit
with them died of want. Disappointed in his expectations.
Floki returned home in the second year, and, as miulit
naturally have been expected from an unsucci'ssful settlci'.
I^ave his countrymen but a dismal account of Iceland, as lu'
definitively named it.
Yet, in spite of his forbiddiiijj^ description, the politiciil
( f)i,(».vis.\Ti(>.N or iii;i,.\M».
I •>
-tiirl»;iii('i's wliicli took pliKM' iihoiil tills time in Xorway
1 til th > llii.il <-<>loiiisiitioii ot'tlit' isliiii«l. Il:in>l(l lliiiirtii;j;i>r,
ill.' I'';iir-lriiml. a SfiiiKliiiiiviiiii yarl, hiiviii;^' \>y violence
,1 ;i sinccssl'iil iiolicv rt'tluft'd iill his ln'otlicr-varls to .snl>-
jcitinii, liixt coiisuliilMtt'd tlieir indt'iicndcnt doniains into
..lie rciiliii. iiMil niiiih' liiniscit' iil»soliitc muster of the whoh-
I if
;iii
iHII
ili-y. Many iA' his former e<iuals suhniitteil to his vol
ice
!»iit othti's. Miiimateil l»y that nnenimiieriilde l(tve of lilx'rty
iMiiiit.' ill men who for many i^enenitions have known no
sii|iriii.f. iii'i'Tcrred setdvin;^' a new home aci'oss the ocean t<»
iL;ii'»miuions vassala";"!' under the detested llandd. Iny'<dfr
:iii
;i'ii
1 !
lis CO
isin licif were the tirst of these hiuh-niinded
iioMi's that emigrated (S<i!)-S7(»l to Icehind.
( hi Mjiproachin;,' the southern coa^t. In^^-olfr cast the sacred
jiillai's l»e|oM'^inL;' to his former dwcdiiuL'' into the water, nnd
\nwed to estal)lish himself on the s[tot to whiidi they slatuld
III' w
idled l)y the Wiives. His pious iidentions were for the
time trust i-ated, as ;i sudden squall separated him trom Ids
pciiiites, and forced him to locate himself on a neiL;hhourin'4'
|ii'oiiiontory, which to this dav l)ears the name of IuL;olfrshotde.
II
ere
>urned three vears, until the followers he had
sent out in (juest of the missin«jf pillars at length brought
him the jovfid news that they had been found on the heacli
i>\' the present site of Reykjavik, whither, in ol)edience to
\vh;il he supposed to be the divine summons, lie instantly
leiuoved. lu:i(dfr's friend and ndative Leif was shortlv after
assassinated hy senile Irish slaves whom he had captiu'cd in
a pri'datorv descent on tlu' llibei'uian coast. The surviviuir
tliicftain deplored the loss of his kinsman, lamentint^- *that
>o valiant a man shoidd fall b}' sn<di villains,' but found
iMiisolatioii by killin;^' the murderers and annexiiiL;" the lands
el' their victim. When, in c(»urse of time, he himself felt
hi>. end approachine', he re(piested to be biu'ietl on a hill
e\erl<itikine- the tl(»rtl, that fr»»m that elevated site bis si>irit
iiiiu'lit have a better view of the land oi' whiidi he was the
lii'-t iidiaV)itant.
Such are the (diroincles related in the ' Landnanui B<dv,' or
" Iteek of ( )ccu[)ation,' one of the earliest records of Icelandic
liistory.
luL;(i|fr and bis c(»mi>anions were soon ftdlowod by other
76
Tin: IMH.AK WolU.M.
I I
niiiuniiils (l(•si^<•ll^ d' <'scii|iiiiL;' iVum the Ivrmmv *>\' II:iri»l«l
lliiiirt'iiijfi'i'. wild iit lirst fiivotin'fl ii iiKivi-mt'iil tlinl rt'iiinvnl
f'iir Im'voihI till' si'ii sii iMiinv ttf liis tiirlnilt'iit »hi|m»ih'M<.s, Imi
Hul»s('(|u»'n<ly iiliiniicd wt tin* (li'iiiii ot' ]i(t|»iiliili<m, <»r tlrsiroim
«»r |n*nlitiii;4: 1>_V llii' t'xndiis, Icvlctl ii fine ^t^' jour ouimts <•[
silvt'i" oil ill) who left IiiM (loiiiiiiioiis to scHlt' in IccliiiHl. N • t
KlIC
li w'crt' lilt' iiltriu-t ions wliicli tlio isliiiiti ;it tliiil lii
111'
l>n»soiit('tl. Hint, ill spile of nil oltstiicli-s, not li;ilt'ii ci'iiturv
rliiiiscd lu'l'orc all its inliiil)itiil>lt' |»iirts wrr»' o('cM|»it'(|, not
only l>y Norwegians, l»nt also liy scttln-s from Denmark ami
Sweden, Scotland and Ii'elaiid.
Tlie N(»rwe<j-iaiis l)r(»n''lit with them their laimMiau*' and
idolatry, their <'Ustoms and historical records, which tin-
other colonists, hut few in numhers, were compelled to ado|.t.
At lirst the udal or free laud-hold system of their own
country was in vigour, hut every lea<h'r of a hand of emi;4raiit>
l)ein<f clntsen hv force of circumstauoes as the acknowledLicd
chief of the district occupied hy himself and compauitnis.
sj)»>edily ])aved the way for a demi-feudal system of vassal;
I , .•, .
ant
I sul
(servu'uce
As tl
le arriva
1 of
new Si
'ttl
ers ren(
leiv,l
the possession of the land more valuahle, endless contest'
wt'cii tUest
th
petty chiefs arose for the hetter pastures iiikI
bet
tisheries. To put an end to this state of anarchy
lujurlou^
to tl
le Common wea
1. Ul
Hot
\\
isi' Avas coin-
missioned to friime a code of laws, which the Icelanders, hy
a siu<4:le simultaneous and peaceful eii'ort, at'eejited as their
future constitution.
The island was now divided into four provinces ami
twelve districts. Each district had its own judy-e, and il>
own popular ' Thino-,' or asseml»ly ; hut the national will w;is
emht)died and represented by the ' Althing-,' or suproin'
parliament of Iceland, which iinnually met at Thin^valhi,
nnder an elective president, or ' Loi^inathurman,' the chief
may;istrate of this northern republic.
On the banks of the river Oxera, where the rapid stream.
after forminji- a majj^nificent cascade, rushes into the lake of
Thinjjfvalla, lies the spot where, for many a century, freeiiicn
met to debate, while despotic barbarians still rei^-ned ovfi'
the milder regions (»f Etu'ope. Isolate^l on all sides by deep
volcanic chasms, which some ••■reat revolution of nature lins
TIIINt.\ AI.I.A.
7T
ii lit ill till' \iist liivn-lirM iii'nwiitl. :iiii1 ciiiltusuiiic*! ill n vvid**
linlr of Miit'k pn'cipittiii.s liills, the siliiiilioii hI" 'riiiii^viilla is
r\l i-i'iii)-lv roiiiiiiitic, Itiit the M;ik*'il *liii'k-('*)|uiir«-(| rocks, iiikI
ill.' iniifs (>r sMljti'n'iiiit'iiii lir»' vi.siMc on cvt-rv side, iiii|)!irl a
-li rii iiitl;iiifln'Iv to tlu' sfciic. TIic liilvf, till' linn't'st slifft of
wati'i- ill tlir isliiml. is ;il»iiii( IJiiity inilts in tirciiiiircrfiic' ;
it> iMiiiiidiirii's liiiVf iiii(lrr;4'(»iic iiiiiiiv cIiiiiiLri's, t's[>t'ci!illy
iliiiiu:^' till- fiirtlitiiiiiki's ol'tlh' j>iist rt'iitiir\, ulii'ii its imrt Ihtii
iiiiirLi'iii '■•'Iliip'"*'"'!. Nvliili' till- diiiiusitc uiii' uiis r;iisi'il. 'I'Ih'
.l.'jtli III' il- ci'vstiil watrrs is vtTV ;4ri'iit, aiMl in its ct'iit re
lis.' twii small cratiM'-islaihls, the rcsnit nf sniiic nnkiiown
t'i'n|iiinii. Till- mountains (III its south Iniiik liavf a |ii(-tni'-
I's.jiii' a]iiicar.im'i', and lari;'*' volnnics ol' stiain issiiiiiL,*' IVom
vi\ I'al liot sources on tlirir sides itiovc that, though all
III' traiii|iiil iiow. the \olcaiiic lires are iio| extinct. (Milya
I'l'W Iraci's ol' the aiicieiil Althiui^- are left —three small
iii.>iiiiils, where sat in state the chiefs and Jiid;4"es of the
I -I'oi asthe asseiilhly used to |iiteh theii' tents on the
lers of the slreani, and the deliherat ions wen; held in
,1111
iii'i
th
toh
I lie o|M'ii air, tnei'e are no ini])osin;.;' ruins lo hear winiess lo a
ulurious past. Jlut thou^'h all architectural jiomi) be ahseiit,
til" scene hallowed l»y the recoiled ions of a thousand years
i> mie of deep interest to the tjaveller. The ^'reat features
I'f natui'e are the same as when the freemen <tf Iceland
I vciiihlid to settle the aH'airs of their little world ; hut the
:;i\.n imw croak's whei'etlie orator aiiju^aled lo the reason
I'l' ilie |ia>!sious of his audience, and the sheep of the neii^'h-
ll"U^ill^• pastor crop undisturhed llie ^rass of deseeratt'd
TliiiiLi'v.illa.
t 'lifistianity was lirst preached in Icrhiiid ahoiil the year
'•'H . hy {''ricdrich, a Saxou hishoj', to whom 'riiorwald Ihe
ti';i\('llcr, ail Icelander, acted as iiitei'preter. Thorwald
having' heeii treated uilh e-ivat severity l>y his fallier, K'o-
'h'aii. had Ued io iJenniark, Avhevt' he liad been (.-ouvero'd hy
I'li'drich. lie returned with the pious ljisho])to his i>alernal
li'Miie, whire the .solemn service of the Chrisliai:s made
MMiie impression on Kodran, hut still the ohstiuiite iiajj;'un
iii'ild not he prevailed ujton to renounce his itneient <i-ods.
' lie must believe,' said he, 'the wm-d of his own [iriest, who
v.. IN wont lo i^'ive him excellent advice.' ' Well t hen,' l'e[tlied
:s
TlIK Vn\.\\i WORLD.
Thorwnld, 'this vonoviiblo man whom T liave broujjclit to 1h\
tlwt'llinj^ is weak iiixl iiilirm, wliile tliy -well-foil priest is
full of vigour. Wilt thon believe in the power of onr (jiod if
the bislK>2) drives him hence?' Friedrich now cast a few
drops of holy-water on the priest, which imniediiitely burnt
<leep holes into his skin, so that ho iled, uttering- dreadful
curses. After this convincin^jf proof, Kodran adopted tin-
Christiiiii faith. But persuasion and miracles acted too
slowly for the fiery Thorwald, who would williu<>'ly have
converted all Iceland at once with fire and sword. His ser-
mons were imprecations, and the least contradiction roused
him to fury. Unable to bear so irascible an associate, the
♦rood bishop Friedrich, i^'ivin;^- np his missionary labours,
returned to Saxcniy. As to Thorwald, his restless disposi-
tion led him to far distant lands. He visited Greece and
Syria, Jerusahun and Constantinople, and ultinuitely founded
a convent in Russia, where he died in the odcmr of sanctitv.
Soon after Thanu'brand was sent by the Norwe^ifian ]<mg
Olaf Truf»'fi'<*son as missionary to Iceland. His method cf
conversion appears to have been very like that of his erratic
predecessor; for while he held the cross in one hand, lie
^•ras2)ed the sword with the other. ' Thano-brand,' says iiii
ancient chronicler, ' was a passionate nno-oveniable person,
and a <^reat manslayer, but a j^'ood scludar and clever. He
was two years in Iceland, and was the death of three mci!
before he left it.'
Other missionaries of a more evan|:;elical character todc
his place, and jn'oved by their success that inild reasonini;'
is fre<|uently a far more etl'ectual means of persuasion than
brutal violence. They made a o-reat nundjer of proselytes, aid
the wlude island was now divided into two factions ready to
.appeal to the sword for the triumph of Christ or t)f Odin.
But befoie comin;^' to this d](>adful extremity, the voice cf
reason was heard, and the conteiidiniL>* parties agreed h'
sulunit the (pn>sii<»n to the decision of the Althino-.
The assembly met, and the momentous debate Avas ]iiii-
ceedino', when suddenly aloud crash of subterranean tlunidrr
was heard, and the (>arth shook uiid( r their feet. ' Listen I "
excdaimed a lollowerof Odin, 'and beware of the anu'er ef
our gods : they will (oiisume us with their lires, if we venlniv
KAULY K'KI.ANDIC CIIUISTIAXS.
70
tn (|ii('stioii iho'w autliority.' The Christian pariy hositutod ;
liiit their coiilidcnec was soon rostorcd by thr proscuce of
iiiiinl of their chief (>rat<»r. Thorj^oir, who, i)(tintiii<4 to th(3
lavii-tields around, asked with whom the <;ods were an<^ry
wlieii tliese rocks were melted : a l>urst of eh»quenco which
ill (iiice decich'd the (luestion in favour of the Cross.
Tlie new faitli hroun'ht with it a new sjdrit of intellectual
(levelopnienl, which attained its hij^'hest splendour in the
twelfth eentur3\ Classical studies were pursued with the
utmost /eal, and learned Icelanders travelled to (Jernnmy
and France to extend their knowledi;e in the schctols of Paris,
or Coloii'iie. The Icelandic bards, or scalds, W(U"e renowned
tliroiit^liout all Scandinavia ; they frequented tlu' courts of
S\\ eden, Denmark, and Norway, and were everywhere r«»ceived
with the hi;j,'hest honours.
The historians, or sagamen, of Iceland were no less re-
nowned than its scalds. They became the annalists of the
whole Scandinavian world, and the simplicity and truth by
wliich tlii'ir works are distinj^'uished fully justify their hi<4'h
rcimtation. Anions- the many remarkable men wlio at that
time u'raced the literature of the Arctic isle, Siimund Frode,
the learned author of the ' Voluspa ' (a work on the ancient
Icelandic mytholoe-y) and the ' Havamal ' (a g'eneral chronicle
of events from the be<^-inning- of the world) ; Are Thor<^'ilson,
wl\ose ' Landnama Bok ' relates Avith the utmost accuracy
tlie annals of his native land ; and Gissur, who about the
year 1180 described his voya^-es to the distant Orient, deserve
to be particularly mentioned; but yreat above all iu j^'enius
iind fauH^ was Snorri Sturleson, the Herodotus of the Nctrth,
whose eventful life and tragic end would well deserve to be
vecdunted at greater length.
(iifted Avilh the rarest talents, and chief of the most power-
ful familv of the island, Snorri was elected in 121-">t«» thehitjdi
titlice of Logmathurman ; Imt disgusting his stimlv counti'v-
iib'n by hi.s excessive haughtiness, he was obliged to retire
to the court of Ilakovi, king of Norway. During this «>xile
lie cullected the materials for his justly celebrated ' Heims-
kriuiila,' or Chronicle of the Kings of Norwav. Returnin<r
lintiie ill 1221, he Avas again named Logmathurman; but
ie- lie endeavoured to pave th(> way for the annexation of his
80
THK I'OLAK \\OR[,D.
native (tuiinti'y to the Norwejjfiiin realm, his f'oreii^n iutii^uts
eaiised a risiiii^ Jij^aiiist his uuthoritj, and he ^vas once
more compelled to take refuge in Norway. Here he rr-
mained several years, until the triumph <»f his own i'actieii
allowed him to return to his family estate at Reikholt, wluiv
lie was murdei'ed on a dark September ni;^ht in the year
1211. Thus perished the most remarkable man Iceland has
ever })roduced. The republic itself did not lon^- stu'vive his
fall: for, weary of the interminable feuds of their chiels.
the jM'ople voluntarily submitted to llakon in l^ol, ami
the nii(Ulle of the thirteenth centu
y
Avas siii'nalisei
1 1.
the transfer of the island to the Norwegian crown, after
three hundred and fortv years of a tui'bident but glorious
h
iiKlepenuence.
i'rom that time the p<ilitical history of tin? Icelanders oU'ers
but little interest. AVilh their annexation to an European
monarchy perished the vigour, restlessness and activity wliirh
had characterised theii' forefathers; and though the Althing'
still met at Thingvalla, the national spirit had tied. It was
still further subdued by a long chain of calanuties — plagues,
famines, volcanic eru[>tions, and piratical invasions — wlii
following each other in rapid succession, devastated the land
and decimated its unfortunate iiduibitants.
Ol
In 1 lOJ that terrible plague, the memory of which is sti
lev the nanie of tin' ' IJlack Death,' carried i
ireserve(l uik
oWcu
I
nearly two-tliirds of the whole po[)ulafii^iu, and Avas foil
by such an inclement winter that iiine-tenths ol' the cattl<' in
the island died. The misi'ries of a peo]>le sulfei'ing IVeni
pestilence and famim* were aggravated l)y the English fislirr-
miui.
'who, in spite of the remonstrances of Ihe Danish
vernment, frequenti'd the defenceless coast in consideralili'
nund>ers, and wert> in fact little better than the old sea-robbers
who lirst colonised the island, plundering and burning on the
main, and holding the wealthy inhabitants lorans(»m. Tlicir
predatory iiieursions were frequently i\peated during tin'
seventeenth eentury, and even the distant ^Mediterranean scut
its Algerine pirates to add t(» the calamities of Iceland.
TIu> eighteenth century was ushered in by the small-i»ox.
which carried olf sixteen thousand of the inhabitants. 1"
the middle of the century ,-e\ere wintt.rs foUnwing in rapi'l
Vdl.CA.VlC KKl'l'TlONS.
81
siifi't'ssioii — Viist iniinbci's df mttlc diod, iiKlucin^- a t'ainiiic
tli;i1 :iL;;iiii s\v<'pt iiway ten llutusaiid iiihabitant.s.
.>iiiic the lirsl (•iiloiiisaticm vi' K-i'laiid. its imiiicrous vol-
i;iiii"'s liad l'iV(|iit'iit l_v ]tr(iUL;lit ruin iijMtu wlidlo (listriet.s —
tu. !it\-iivL' limes liad Jli'<-la. clevi'ii tiiin'S K<ithiL;'i;'i, six tinu'S
Th'llihlvnixja, live liiin's ()iviela, vtnuiled forth (lieir lorrciils
iii' ir.ulti.'ii sloiie, williiMit eoiiiitiiin' a uuiiiber ol' siilnnariiie
wilciiiiic ex|»losioiis, or whei'e tiie plain wi-.s siulilenlv rent
1111(1 ihmii's and aslies hurst onl dt' llie earth : liul the eruption
I't' Skaiitar J('ikull in 1 7S.| was the niosl I'ri^htl'nl \isilatioii
cvi-r known to liave desolated the island. The preeedin|4'
uii.'tt r and s[»rinu- litul been unusually mild, and the islanders
h'l.kid I'lrward to a jtrosperous summer; hut in tlu' beniu-
iiiii;_;' oi' June repeated trendjlinys ol' the earth, inereasinj;"
in violenct,' from day to day, aiuiouiiced that the subter-
ranean pnwers that had Ioul;' been siiunlx'rinj^* under the iey
mantle (d" the Skaptar Avere ready to awake. All the nei^'h
hniu'in^' I'ca.-ants al)andoned their hi'.ts and erected tents in
till- open held, anxiouslv awaitin;'" the result of these terrific
warning's. ( )n the !)th, iunuense pillars of smoke collected
nvcr llie hill countiy towards the n(»rth, and rolling' down in
a soutiu'rly direction, covered the wholi> district of Sitliu with
ilarkness. Lou<l sul)ierranean thunders t'oll(,>wed in ra}iid
>ticcessi(!n. and innunieraltle iire-sp<»u'!s were seen leapinu' and
Having' throuj^h the dense cano[)y vi' smoke and ashes that
ciivi'liipi'd the land. The heat ragiuy in the interior t>f the
viiirauo melted enorinous masses of ice and snow, \vhich
iau>ed the river Skapta to rise to a prodi^'ious hei^'ht ; l>ut on
tlir Mill torrents of ilre usur[)ed the plarr of watei", for a
vast lava-stream break'in«4' forth from tin' uaMuitain, ilowed
'l"wn in a soutlierly direction, until reaching- the river, a
tr.inendous coullict arose between the ivvo hostile elements,
riiiiun-h the channel was six hundred ffit deep and two
liuiidivd t'et.'t wide, the lava-llood, [lourin^;' down one liery wave
ait''r another into the yawnin;^' abyss, ultimately <4'ained the
viit'iry, and blocking- up the stream, overllowed its banks.
t'lMssini;' the low country of Medalland, it poured into a,
i!i'''ut lake, uliich after a few dti^s was likewise completely
'illt'd ap, and having' divided into two streams, the iinex-
nuu-^ted torj'cnt again poured on. overHowin;^' ni one directi^m
S-'
Tin: I'oi.Ai; wuimj).
SMiiic iiiu-it'iil !;i\a lirlds, ninl in iniotlnT rc-riilcriiiLi' t
rli;iiiiicl III' till' Sk;i[»la iiiiil It'll itiiin' (luwii ilii' loi'is iMtiUMi
t i>\
n ;i
Sf ;i |i;iioss. IJiil t!iis was 111(1 iill, j'or wliilc oin' laxa I!
hail clKist'ii till' Sliajila I'oi" i1> lie.!, jiunllici', (Irs-cinliiiL;' i
ditl'i'i'oil <lir<'<-l ion, was wdi'kiii;^" siciilai' ruin aliai.^' llif Itank-
ni'lh." II vi'vlislliot . W'iu-tlii'i' (lie saiiii' rraicr u-av^' hirilil'
Im»1Ii. it is iiiiio-sililc to sav, as cncii llic fxtciit o|' llic |;i\;i.
<'i'i| >i
low
can onlv li" ni.'as'ii-'d iVoinili'' spot svIkti' it ontcVi
■(1 I ill'
iulialiitcd <ii>! i'i''t>. ^I'lic st ream u liidi iollowfti t lit- dirrct inn
of Sk;ij)t;i is ciil'-iiIali'iHo lii\ >• Ix'i'ii ;i1»out til'tv miles in ii'nutii
Iiv twelve or lil'tcen at its Lirealest I'l'eadtli : tliat wliidi rollcij
(lowii the' JlveJ'lislliot at I'orty miles in li'imlh h\ seven in
hreiidt li.
Where it \va - iiiel:is,il, l/e1 ween 1 lie ]ireeiiiilens lanks ol'lli,'
Ska[ia. i he !a\ a is li\i'oi'si.\ hnndi'ed feet thick, Init as sunn
as it sjiread (Uit iid » the jilain its deplli never exceeth'd
hnndiv (I I'eet , The ecnpt ion of sand. :islies- pnmiee. nnd I;
continued till the end of An;^ii>t when at len^ifh the \;
suI)teriMne;i n (nmult >:iihsid( <l.
Jhit iisdirerul elTeets wi've i'ell for a Ioml;' timo af'ti
onlv ill it;-- ininiediao' vieinits. hnt oxer the ulio'.e of Icehin
OlM'
1V,I
IH>
and added jir.uiv a niouiaifnl [ia;.;e to jn'i- loi!'_;- annais >■(
sorrow, j'or a wlmh* vear a dun e:inoj>v of cin(h'i-!;;'lr)i
(douds hun'j,' ovi'i' the uidri|']>y i-^!iind. Sand and a>li''<.
cai'i'iedlo an eiioinious liei^'jit inio ih" a1 niitsphere, sja'ciiil
fai' and \viile aiid o\ ei'w lnhiied lh(ai^aiids ui' acres of frliii'
])asluraL',e. The I'aeroes, the SlH'lland>. and the (>i'kih\>
were deiiiued witii \olea iiic du-^l which j)erce[ii ihl v coiilmiii-
naf'd e\en ihi' i^kies of llii:^laiid and Holland. Jf'j'liili''
va|i(airs o]»S( isred the rays of (lie sun, and tlie Milpliiiruii>
I'xhalal i<>ns tainttd ho'di tlie u'ra^s (»f tlio fadd and tl- ■
\v
iit'rs of the lake, liie liver and th
e se
tiiat no! iiiih.
so jieia^lh
^v
I ;:i 1'
the cattle died hy t hoiHands, jpiil the jish a
tlu'ir poisoiii'd element. The unheahhy air, and the
lood-t'or hunii'r a! las! (hove them to have recour. e i
uuianned hides and old iealhei- — u'ave vls(> t<» a di.M'ii-
reseinhlinu' scurvy auioiii; the iinfortuuale leekpaders. Tlii
heail and liiid>s hc^-au to swell, the hones seemed le '"
disiendinn'. l)i'eadlul (aMiiijis forcdthe patient lost;
;!'!:■
mitortion
T'l
le LiUms loeseiied, the decomposed i'l'<'
ICKLANDIf .MoNul'Ol.Y
81
(H./c(l froiu till' mouth and the ulcerous skin, and a low days
.,r i.iriiiciii iiml [»i'ostrii1i<>ii were t'ollowcMl by death.
Ill iiiaiiv 11 secluded valo whole I'ainilies were swejit away,
nil. I tliitsf thai escajM'd tlie sroui'ij;e had hardly .sti'eiiL;-th
Millifinit to hiirv the dead.
.-miI'VdW -A'aA Mil ;ni> I
Au'l fvil ami lire I'l.
IviVl'l'ipr a ll.llioll —
'I'hc ).lr-t arr till' (Icail,
"Will) Sir Ili.I l!|r ."iiillt
(>!' t!hir ciwn d. ;-'ilat ion.
So L;rrat was the runi eauscil hy this one eruption that in
l!ic short spa<t' oT two yoars no less than l>-"!:>(» men, 2S,0(M»
liipixs. II.ICI cattle, and l!M>,(i(io shee[> — a lar^'e proportion
(if llie wealth and popnlation of the island — were swept
;i\\iiy.
After fliis (h'eadi'id i-atastrophe t'ollowcd a lony iieri<>d of
vilraiiic rest, tor tin.' next eruption ol'the Myjalialla did not.
take pi !ce bei'ore J^^lil. A twcli'th ei'uption of KiWliiLi'ja
ii'Turrc.l iu 182-), the twenty-sixth ofllecla in lSl')-l(!; and
iiltiniaicly the thirteenth of Ki'itluu'ja in \X(\^). Since then
there has hecn repose; hut who knows what future disasters
limy he pve2)arinf»' beneath those icy rid^'es and fields of snow
efSkapta and his frowninn' compeers, where uo human foot
has ever wandered, or how soon thev mav awaken their
il'iiiiant thumlers'J
15 sides the sutferincs causeil l»y the elenn'uts, the curse of
iii<iiiii]ioly wein'hed for many a IoUl;" year upon the miserable
Ic'liinders. The Danish kind's, to whom on tlie anialL^ama-
t:"!i of the three Scandinavian imniaridiies the alie^'iance of
th' j.eople of Iceland was passively transfen-ed, e(tn.sidered
ili'ii' poor (h'[iend(.'ncy as a private domain, to be farmed ,,ii1
t'iihe hiehest bidder. In the Kith eentui'y the Ilanseatic
Tiiwiis purchased the exclusive pi'ivilet;'e of trading- with
I'eland : and in lo'.M' a Danish comi»any was fivoured witli
die monopoly, I'lir which it had to pay the paltry sum of
b'> ilxilollars for each of the p(.rts of th" island.
Ill the yciir ISOii a new company paid lodO dollars for the
h' 1 iiMJic moiiojtoly ; but at the ex|)iratioii of the contract,
'M'
h of the ports was fanned out t<.» the highest bidder— a
84
TlIK ro|,AI{ WOULD.
liiiiiiieiiil iiiii»i(»vt'm('ti1. wliidi riiiscd tlif ri'vcuut.' to h!,oii(t
(lolliirs ii vt'iir, mid ulliiiiiitrly to 22,000. The iiiealruliil»l<'
misery produced bv the eruption of the Sk.ipta had at k'nst
the heucliciiil t'oiisc(|Ut'nc<' that it souifMvhat h>oseued tlic
bonds of iiioiio|M(ly, iiN it now bccuinc free to every Danish
merchant to trade \vi1h tiie island; but it is in\\y since April
1855 that the last restrictions liave fallen and the ports i.t
Iceland been opened to tlie merchant.s {>{' all iiJitions. It i>
to be hoped that the beneficial otfects of free trjth' will
gradually heal the wounds cansed by ci'nturies of neglect
and misfortune; but "^ivat pro^'ress must be made bcfoiv
Iceland can attain the dej^Tce »*f prosperity which she enjoyed
lii the times of her independence.
Then she had above a liuncUvd thousand iidiabitants, new
she has scarcely half that numl)er ; then she had many rich ainl
powerful families, now medio'-rity or poverty is the universiil
lot ; then she was renowned all over the North as the seat
of learnin<^' and tl.ie cradle of literature, now were it not tor
her remarkable physical features, no traveller would ever
thiidv" (»f landinu' on her ruiiL>-ed shores.
I
The Long-taikd Duck.
The I.nvii Fir'.d nt Sr,! t3- lIHlu .
CIIAI'I^KK' VII,
Tl( F, ](' Kl,.\ X DK HS.
"^kallmli — Urvkiavik— Tlio F;ur
I'.'isrin
r aii'l the Mercli.iiit A Clergyniiiti
111 I
ii> ('ill'
-Ilav-iii;ikin£i — Tlie Ici'liindrr's Hi;t ("Inivi'lirs— Povortv of tlir
Clii'iiv — .F'jii 'rii(irlak>on- 'I'lu' ScniiiKiry dt' Roykjavik — luiufirial Iiitiufiico of
i]u> C'liii;y — lloiii.' Ivlu.Mtidii Til.' lrc!aiul('i'"s Winter's Kvciiiiic; — Taste fur
I, it. val lire— Till' Laiiirunpi' 'I'lir I'ulilii' liilmiry at Kiykjavik-'riio Icrlaiidii'
Literary S.x'iefy — Jcelamlie NmAsiKipors— Ijoiifrcvily — Le|'ro>y— 'l'rav(llir,p: in
li'ilaiul — Fcn'diiiir tie' I?ivi'vs -CrDssinf; of tlic Sk(i<lara liy Mi'. Holland — A
Ni^lit"'- ilivdiiai'.
'V KXT to Thiii^viillii, tlicvo is no pliU'c iu rcoliind so rcplnto
*^ witli lilstorieal intorost as Skalholt, its ain-iciit oiipital,
lli'i'i' ill till' ol*>V(Mitli ct'iitiirv was foiiiidod tlio first school
i)i tli<> island; lioro wiis tlio soiit of its iirst bisliops; lioro
llntirislicd ii suc'cossioii <'!' i^roat orators, historians, and
IMifts: Isleif, tli«^ oldost rhronit'lcr of the North; (lissnr,
wlin in the Ix'o-inniiifj; of tho twtdfth contni'v had visited
all the conntrios of Enropo and spoko all their lano-uno-es ;
ill" [>hilolf)<4-ian Thorlnlc, and Finnnr Johnson, tlie learned
tiiiilior of the 'Ecclesiastical History of Iceland." The
t-atlicdral of Skalholt was renowned far and wide lor its size,
86
Till!: VOL.Wl \V()I{|.1>.
I'>
and in the yciir 1 mM>, LjiHii, poeirv, imisie, and rlu'toric, tlit^
four libeiiil nrts, wore tiui^lit in its school, more than thi y
"Nvere at that time in iniiny of the lar^e European eitie.^.
As -i proof i.oNV early tht) study of the ancients flourishi'd in
Skalholt, we find it recorded that in the twelfth century, ii
bishop once cauo-ht a scholar rea<lin^- (Jvid's ' Art of Love/
and as the story relates tliat the venerable pastor tlew iiitu
a, vi<dent passion at the sij^ht of the unludy book, Ave niiiy
without injustice conclude that lie nnist have read it hiiii-
selt in some of his leisure hoiu's, to know its character so
well.
Of all its past ylories, Skalholt has retained nothing' but
its naino. The school and the bishopric have l)een reniovcil,
the old church lias disappeared, and been replaced by ;i
small wooden bnildinj^", in which divine service is held oinv
a month ; three cottayes contain all the iidiabitants of llu'
once celebrated city, and the extensive churchyard is tin'
oidy memorial of its fornnn* importance. Close by are the
ruins of the old schoolhouse, and on the spot where tiic
bishop resided, a peasant has erected his miserable hovel.
But the ever-chan;^"ing' tide of human aiiairs has iint
bereft the now lonely place of its natural charms, for tlic
meadow-lands of Skalholt are beautifully indK'dded in ;iii
undulating ranye of hills, overlooking' the junction oi' tln'
Bruara and Huita, and backed by a ma^'uificent theatre (tf
mountains, amongst which llecla and the Eyafyalla are tla-
most prominent.
Eeykjavik, the present capital of the island, has risoii
into importance at the expense both of Skalholt and
Thing-valla. At the beginning of the present century the
courts of justice were transferred from the ancient seat v\'
legislature to the new metropolis, and in 171)7 the bishoprics
of Hooluni and Skalholt, united into one, had their seats
likewise transferred to Reykjavik. The ancient school cf
Skalholt, after having hrst migrated to Bessestadt, has also
been obliged to follow the centralising tendcaicy, so powerful
in our times, and now contributes to the rising fortunes vi!
the small seaport town.
But in spite of all these accessions, the first aspect (f
Reykjavik by no nu'ans corresponds to our ideas <»f ii
]{i:VK.IAVIK.
87
(•;i)iit;il. ' Tilt' town,' Siiys L<»r<l DulVcriir", 'consists of :i,
(•i.ll.'cliuii of wooden sIkmIs, one story lii;4'li — risinL^- here iunl
llicrc into ii ;^Ml)lt' end of i^Teiiter [»retensions - ImiH iiloii;^'
the hi.Vii traek, and flunked iit eitlier end l>v a snburh of
turf Inits. Hn every side of it extends a desolate plain «»f
liivii, tliiil once n»nst have i)oiled uj) red-lioj from some
distiint ^iitewiiy of hell, and fiillen liissin!^' into the sea. No
tree ..r Inisli relieves llie dreariness of the landscape, and
Hi.' iiiMunlains are loo distant to serve as a, baekirround to
llie I'UJMin'^'s; bnt before tho door of each n»er(diant's house
teinL;' the sea, there ilies a, ;^ay little pennon; and as you
walk ;iloir_;- tlu' silent streets, \vh<»se dust no carria^'e-Avlieel
]u[< I'Vi'r desecriitcfl, tlio ro\^ s of llower-pots lliat peep out
of tlie windows, between curtains of Avhite nnislin, at onee
f'lniui'e vou. that ii(»t\vitlistan<lin^' their nnpi'etendinm' ap-
pearance, within (Mch dwellinn* reiyn tlu> elegance and
(onil'iTl of a woman-tended home.'
'I'wenfy years sinc<\ lleylsjavik ^vas no better than a,
wfctclied lishing' vilhu;-e, now it already nnnibers l.M'O
iuliabilants, and fre(>-trado promises it a still <j;Teater increase
for the future. It owes its prosperit}' chielly to its excellent
|ior1. ami to the abundance of tish-l»anks in its nei^-hl)our-
lieiiil. which have induced the Danish merchants to make it
their princi[tal settlement. Most oftheui, however, )nere]y
visit it ill sinunKU' like birds of jsassage, arrivin;^- in ^lay
with small car^-oes of jbreign i^oods, au<l leavin<;' it a^-ain in
AuLr'Ht. after havin;jf dis[)osed of their wares, "i'lnis Jieylv-
javik must Ite lonely and dreary eiiouuh in winter. A\heu no
tiM'li' aiiiniates its jiort, and no tr.iveller stays at its solitary
imi : Imt the joy of tin.' inhabitants is all the greater, when
till' return of spring reopens their int<'rcourse witli the re>t
cf the World, and the delight may lie imagined, with which
I hey hail the first ship that l)rings them the loiin-exjiectcil
iicws fr< in Europe, and i)erhaps scaue wealtJiy tourist, eager
to a.haire the won<lers of the (Jeysirs.
Tin' most bus}' time of the tt)wn. is however tin.' beginning
• if July, when the annual fair attracts a great nuiiilur nf
li'shi'i'iiieu and peasants within its walls. J''rom a distance
» • L.tt.Ts fi-nni IIi-li I.alitu(!.-.-,' j.. :i:,.
88
Tin: roi.AK woRi.n,
of forty nnd fifty louf^ucH jiround, tlu>y conic with Iohm" tviiips
of piU'k-liorst's ; tlu'ir stock-lisli slunjjf freely ju-ross tln'
iinimiils' bticlv.s, tlioir more <limui<^«'Jibk' articles close pivsswl
iiiul packed in l)oxes or skin l)a}j;s.
The <4reater part of the trade hi this and other siniill
seaports, such as Akreyri, llafnafjord, Kyrarhacki, IJirii-
fjord, Vapiiafjord, Isafjord, (irafaros, liudenstadt ; wliicli.
taken all tofjether, do not equal Reykjavik in traltic iiinl
p<»pulation — is carried on by barter.*
Sometimes the Icelander desires to bo paid in specie fdv
part of his produce, but then he is obli<4ed to barf^-ain for n
lon^' time \vith the merchant, Avho of course derives a, (loiiblc
prolit by an oxchaiifje of <^<)ods, and is loth to i)art with his
hard cash. The dolliirs thus acquired fire either mellcd
down, and worked into silver massive i^irdh's, which in poin*
of execution as well as dcsig-n are said, on <,'ood aTithoriiy,+
to be equal to anythinj:^ of the kind fashioned by Eni^Iisli
jewellers, or else deposited in a. stronpf box, as taxes iiud
wa<4"es are all paid in produce, and no Icelander ever thiii1<s
of investing' his money in stocks, shares, or debentures.
He is, however, by no means so ionoraut of mercantile
affjiirs as to strike at once a bar^-ainwith the Danish trailfis.
Pitchiuii- his tent before tin; town, he first pays a visit to nil
the merchants of the place. After carefully notinq* tliciv
several offers (for as each of them invariably treats him to ;i
dram, he with some justice mistrusts his memory), he returns
to his caravan and mak(\s his calculations as well as liis
somewhat confused brain allows him. If he is accompaiiicil
by his Avife, her opinion of conrse is decisive, and the following;
niorniui^ he repairs with all his o-oods to the merchant wlwt
has succeeded in jj;'ainin<i' his confidence.
After the business has been concluded, the peasant empties
one g-lass to the merchant's health, another to a happv
* III 18."),"), Icclaiul imported amontr otliovs : (')').'\'2 \n<vL!, of limlior, 1 IS.OliSlls.
(if iron, 37,7l)(» lbs. hemp, IT),! 70 flsliiiiff Wnea, 20.8 Hi lbs. salt, C>,iuH) ton's ot'oifll.
Th(> chief cxportations of the .saiiu' vrar were tallow 932.()0(i lbs,, wool l,,')()l),o2;)
lbs., 09,30>) pains of .stofkingsi, L*7.100 pairs of fxlnves, 12,7 12 salted sheepskins, 411(!
lbs. eiderdowns, '20,000 lbs. otiier teatlicrs. 211 liorscs, and 2 l,07U sliip'< |>miniN
(the ship's pound = ,'{20 lbs.) salt fish.
t 15arrow. ' Visit to Toeland.' 1,S,"1.
THK i:kki:(ts or iil'm.
HO
iii.'i'linu next vcar, ii tliird to the kill'', ii foiirtli Vx'Cimse
tliri'c liiivc been dnuik already. At leiiMfli, after many
.•mliraces, ,\\u\ 2)r(»tfstat ions of eternal friondsliip, h(> takes
his li-ave of the nirn-liant. F»»rtnnat(dy then» is n«» thief to
Iti' fniuid in all Iceland: but in eonse(inence of these repeatt'd
lihiitions, one i)are(d lias not been well packed, another
i),.nlio,.||(ly attached to the horse, and thns it hai»pens that
tlic [loor peasant's track is not nnfrecpiently marked with
sii^ar, cotVee-beans, salt or (lour, and that when he reaches
lioiiic, lu' liuds some vahiablt* article or other missing.
It uuidd, however, be dc»inn- the Icelanders an injnstioe to
ri'l^ard them as <i"enerally inteni[»erate ; tor though within the
last tu'elve years the populati(»n has incvi'ased only ten per
cent., ami the importation of brandy thirty, yet the whole
(|uanlity of spirits consumed in the island amounts to less
than three bottles per annum for each individual, and, of
ihis all(»wanc(\ the pe<tple of Reykjavik and of the other
small seaports have more than their share, while many of
the clery'v and iK'asantrv in the remoter districts hardly ever
t.iste spirituous li(jUors. Dr. Hooker mentions the extra-
ordinary elt'ect which a sni-all portion of rum produced on
tlie L^dod old incumbent of ]Middalr. whose stomach had been
accustomed only to a milk-diet and a little cofiee. ' He
be^nvd me,' says the Doctor,^'" 'to e-ive him some rum to
I'.ithe his wife's breast; but having;' applied a portion of it
to tliiit [lurpose, he drank the rest without ])ein«4' at all aware
of its stnui^'th, which, however, had no other etl'eet than in
I MusiiiM this clerical blacksmitlif with his lame hi[) to dance
ill the most ridiculous manner in front of the lumse. The
^ceue atforded a pireat sourc(> of merriment to all his family,
except his old wife, who Avas very desirous of ^'ettini;- him to
bed, while he was no less anxious that she should join him
ill tlie dance.'
Dr. Hooker justly remarks that this very cii-cumstance
is a convincing- proof lunv unaccustomed this priest was to
s|>irituous liquors, as the (piantity taken could not have ex-
ceeded a wine-;.',lass full.
After his visit to the fair, the peasant sets about hay-
'^ ' ■(I'livii.il of ;i Tour in Icolainl,' p. 110.
' All fill' i-li'i-pvincn are liliicksmitlis, fur a reason that will In stated liei-eal'ter.
99
Tin: roLAK woni.n.
('|( ss
Miiikiiij;', wliicli is In lilm flic ^Tfiit l)iisin('ss (»!' llic yi-.w.
fur lie is niosl ;iii.\i(>Ms to secure wiiiter-l'inMer lor liis ciittli'.
oil wlljcli Ills whole |iros|»erity (le|ieii(ls. 'I'lie tew jiodilo. s
illHJ llirilips iiltoiit tlie si/e of llliirhles, oi" the ('iihl)ii;;'e iiml
pai'sley, whieh he iiiiiy ehsmee to ciiltiviite, iire not, worth
nieniioiiiiii^' ; i^rnss is the chlet*, iiiiv the only |iro(liiee of hi>
fii.rni, !in<l thut llejiven nmy i^'rant ehsir sunshiny (hiys fur
h;iy-niiil<in;4' is now liis (hilly pniyer.
Kvery [tersoii ciqtiihN,' of wiehliiiu- a scythe or riil<e is
pressed into the work. Tlie hest hay is cut from the * ti'ii!,'
a sort of padilock comprising;' the lands adjoining' the fiinii-
liouse, and the only part of his <^i-ounds on whi(di the
peasant bestows any attention, for in spite of the paraiiioiini
imp(»rtauc«> of his pasture-land he dttes l>ut litlle for its
improvement, and a meadow is rarely seen, when* the u:
or less nutriti(tus herbs are n(»t at least as abundant as those
of a, better (lualitv. The 'tun' is encircled bv a turf nr
stone wall, and is seldom more than ten acres in extent,
and ;;'enerally not more than two or threi\ its surface is
usually a series of ch»sely ] tacked niounds, like ^Taves, ni<isl
lUipK'asant to Avalk over, the <4'utter, in some places, beiif^'
two feet in depth between the mounds. After hiivinj^- iinislieil
■with tlie 'tun,' the farmer sulyects to a process of cutting'
fill the broken hill-sides and boy-^y undrained swamps tli;it
lio near liis dwelling;'. The Idades of tlio scythes are vcrv
short. It would be im[)0ssible to use a long'-bladed scythe,
<»win^' to the inievenness of the ground.
The cutting- and making of hay is carried on, when the
wcatla'r will permit, thr<(Ugh all the twenty-four hours of tlio
day. When the hay is made it is tied in Ijundles by c<»r(ls
aiu
I tl
long's, an
d carried away by p(>nies to the eiirtl
houses prepared for it, Avliich are similar to, and adjoin tl
1('!1
ill which the cattle arc stalled.
It
is a very curious sin'
K tSO
lit,'
sa,ys Mv. Shepherd, ' to see a string of hay-laden ponies
veturniu<^ home. Each pony's halter is made fast to the
tail of the preceding one, and the little animals are so en-
veloped in their burdens, that nothing' but their hoofs iuul
the connecting njpes are visible, and they look as thougli a
dozen huge haycocks, feeling* themscdves sutHciently iiuule,
were crawling off to their resting'-places.'
WINTi'.U 1,1 1'l: IN I('KI,.\NI».
01
illM
illll
WIh'M lln' liarvcsl is liiiislHMl, (he liiniifr li-ciils liis riiniily
1 liilKdinTs to II siiUstiiuHiil sM|tiH'r, coiisisliiii^- of imillnii,
I it suii[) of milk :iiitl IImiu'; uimI iiltlioiii^li tlio sn-iuiis iiii*]
tai'itiini li'i'liiiitlcr Ims [u'vliiip.s of all iiil'Ii the Ifiist iiistf for
iiHiric jiiiil (liiiifiii^-, yet llicst' simpif ft-iists iivi' tlistiiiy'iiislinl
li\ ;i pliK'itl sri't'iiity, no less [ili'iiHiiiy tliiiii the i in ire hoist ( Tons
III
,,',>
iitli ilis|iliiy('<l ill a suutlicni \iiita
Aliiinsi all lalxiiir out ol* doors now erases for tlu' rest of
,■ \c;ir. A lliirK' niiintlt' of snow soon covers inoiiiitain
III!
1 viile. meadow and moor; with every retiirnin;;' day, the
sun [lavs the eold earth a deereasiii;^' visit, until liiially he
Iiiirdly ai>[>ears ahove the liori/oii at no<»n, the wintry storm
liowls over the \\!iste, and for months the life of tlie feelander
is ednlined to his hut, wlii'di fre([Uently is hut a low dej^roes
hctter than that of the lilthy La[>.
Its lower [lart is built of rude stones to ahoiit the hei<,dit
(if four feet, and bdweeii ea<'h row layi'rs of turf are jtlaced
with ^reat re^^'ularity to serve instead of mortar, and ker|»
(lilt the Avind. A r(»of of siieh wood as can l)e procured
Vests upon tlu'se walls, and is covered with turf uiid sods.
Oil one side (yeuerally faciuL;' the south) are several «4-al)le-
ClKlS
am
I d<
oors, eacii snrmonn
ti'd
ill
witli a Aveaihereoc
th
•k.
These are the entrances to the dwellim;'-house proi»er, to the
smithy, store-room, oow-slied, Ae. A lonj^' narrow passa<4"e,
(lark as pitch, and re(l(ilent of unsavouiy odours, leads to
the several apartments, -wliicli are si'parate<l from each other
hy thick walls of turf, eaeh haviiii:' also its own roof, so that
till' peasant's dweilin<;' is in fa<-t a coiii^lomeratiou of low
huts, Avhich sonu'tinu's reeoivo their li^ht throiii^h small
\viii(htws in the front, but more fretjuently tluvui^'h holes iii
the roof, covered with a piece of ^lass or skin. The lioors
are of stamped earth ; the hearth is made of a few stones
chuiisily piled together, a cask or barrel, with the two ends
knocked out, answers the purpose of a chimney, or else the
f^iiioke is allowed to escape thron^^h a mere hole in the roof.
The thick turf walls, the dirty tloor, the persomil unclean-
liucss of the inhabitants, all contribute to the p<»llution of
till' atmosphere. No })ieco of furniture seems ever to have
lucii cleaned, since it was lirst put into nse ; all is discjrder
iuiil confusi«>ii. Ventilation is utterly impossible and the
9:
TFii: I'oi-AiJ \V()|;m)
I': >
wlidlc fiiiiiily, tVcqiu'iitly roiisistint; of l^v^'nty [mtsohs ,,i
more, sicop in tlio saiiio dorinitory, iis avi-II ms any sir;iiiL;'.i ,
who iiiiiy liiippiMi to drop in. On either side of tliis ii[)!irt-
Diciit iive bunks three or four feet in width, on whieh the
sleepers ranjjje themselves.
Hnch iire in ;j^eneralthe dwellin^-s of the fiirmers and eleri-v.
for hut very few of the more wealthy inhabitants live in iiny
way iiecordiiiLT to oin* ju^tions of comfort, while the e(»1s of
the poor fisherman arc so wretched that one can hanllv
believe them to be tenanted b}- human beinr^s.
The farmhouses are frequently isolated, and, on account of
their ;:;Tass-covered roofs and their low construction, are imi
easily distinguished from the neiij,'hbourin<jf pasture-L^rouiids:
whei'e four or iive of them are con<:>'reg"ated in a g'rassy plain,
they are di^^-nified with the name of a villaLTO, and becomi'
the residence of a Hrepstior, or parish-constable.
Then also a church is seldom wanting-, which however is
distill j^uished from the low huts around merely by the cross
planted on its roof. An Icelandic house of prayer is g-enevally
from eig'ht to ten feet wide, and from ei<j^hte(Mi to twenty-l'tnir
iouL;-, ))ut of this about eii>-ht feet are devoted to the alhii'.
which is divided off by a partition stretchin<^" across tin-
church, and ajji'ainst which stands the pulpit. A small wooden
chest or cupboard, placed at the en<l of the building', betwooii
two very small scpuire windows n<'t lari;'er than a comiunii
sized pane of j^lass, constitutes the communion-table, ov
which is ^ent'ralh a miserable reitresentation of the Lord
8up})er painted on wood. The heij^ht (»f the walls, avI
are wainscoted, is about six feel, and from them laraewood
beams stretch across from side to side. On th
(M'
llril
I'll
ese
)eiU!is
are placed iu i^reat disorder a quantity of old bildes, psa.ltcis,
and frai^'iueuts of dirty mannscri[its. The interior of thy
I'oof, the rafters of Avhich rest on the walls, is also lined wifli
wood. On the ri^dit of the <lo(»r, under which cnie is obli^vd
to stoop considerably (ui enterin;.>', is suspend(Hl a bell, lariji'
enonj4'h to malce an intolerable noise in so small a space. A
few benches on each side the aisle, so crowded too-etlier :is
almost to touch one anotlier, and alfordin^- accommodation
to thirty ov foity j)ers(>ns v.'hen squeezed very ti;_;lit. Jcnvi'
room foj' a narrmv ])assa<Ji'e.
CI-KKICAI. ni.ArKSMITlIS.
93
Tlicsc clmivhcs, besides tlicir pi'i>i>in' use, are tilso made to
;iii>\ver the purposo of the ciiravanseniis oi' tlie East, by
■.itlni'iliiiu' a iii^'lit's IcHl^'iiii;- to I'oreij^'U tourists. Tbey are
iii.l.'.'d iii'itlier free from dirt, nor from l)ad smells ; but the
-itr.iiiu'i'r is still far better oif than in tlu' intolerable atmo-
sphere cf ii ]»easant"s hut.
TIk' poverty of the eler^-y corresponds with the meanness
,p|' their ehm-ches. The best living- in the island is that ol*
|!reide"-l]u]stadr, Avhere th<' nominal sti[)t'nd ameiints to 160
sjiecie thilhirs, or abuu.t lU/. a year; and Mr. llellaml states
that the a\eran"e living\s do not amount to more than lO/.
lur each parish in the island. The elery-ymen nnist therefore
ih|irii(l almost entirely for subsistence on their n^-hibe land,
a;id a small pittance to Avhieh they are entitled for the few
baptisms, marriages, and funerals that occur among' their
jiarisliidners. The bishop himself has oidy 2000 ri:c-d(dlars,
ir 2<i(i/. a year, a miserable pittance to maki.' a decent ap-
[•earance, and to exercise hospitality to the clergy who visit
licykjavik from distant parts.
It cannot bt> wimdered at that pastors, thus miserably paid,
are generally obliged to perform the hardest work of day
!al)oarers to preserve their families Irom starving, and that
their extenral appearance corresponds less with the dignity
(it llulr ottice than with their penury. Besides hay-malving-
ami tending the cattle, they may be frequently seen leading a
trail) ef jiack-hovses from a hshing station to their distant
Iiut. They are all blacksmiths also from necessity, and the
best sheers of horses on the island. The feet of an Iceland
lii'ise would be cut to pieces over the sharp rock and lava if
!!"( well shod. The great resort of the peasantry is the chin'ch,
;tiiil >hould any of the numerons horses have lost a shoe, or
lii' likely to do so, the priest puts on his apron, lig-hts his
little charcoal fire i)i his smithy (one of which is always
attached to every parsonage), and sets the animal on his
legs again. The task of getting the necessary charcoal is
U"t the least of liis labours, for whatever the distance may
h'' tip the nearest thicket of dwarf-birch, he must g'o thither
'"burn th(> Wood, and to briu«>" it honu* when charred across
iiorse
back. His 1
mt
scarct-lv better than that
04
TIIK I'OLAU WOULD.
(>
f tl
I',.' IIK'IU
ic'st lislioriiiiin ; a bL'd, a riekcty table, a 1
I'W
•liiiirs, and a cliost or two, jiiv iill liis fiiriiitur«
Tl
us IS. ;|.s
on a* !iw
lu' ]
ives.
tlio eou(lili(.»n of the Ict'lamlio cb'i-yv n
mil,
iin<l learninti', virtuo, tind even o-cnius iire but too iVeijUfiillv
buried under this squalid poverty.
liut tew of niv readers have probably ever heard of llic
poet Jon Tliorlakson, but Avho can withhohl the tribute nf
his admiration fr(»in tlie poor priest of JJaeka, who wiih ;i
iixed income of less than (!/. a year, and eonih-mned to nil
the drudu'erv which T have described, linished at sevriitv
years of ai>e a translation of jVIilton's ' Paradis(^ Lost,'
liaA'in<4' pri'viously translated Pope's ' Essay <»n IMan.'
Three of the lii'st Ijooks oidy of the 'Paradise Lost' wnv
]>rinted by the Icelandic Literary Society, when it wa
sitlveil in 171M), and to print the rest at liis own expcn>
s ui-
\V;|^
.t
ot course impossible
>iblc
In a few Iccdandic verses, Thorlak-
nil
touchiiiLily alludes to his penury: — 'Ever since I came iiitu
this world, I have l)een wedded to Poverty, Avho lias imu
hu^'u'ed me to her bosom these seventy winters, all l>nt i\\*>:
and whether we shall ever be separated luM'e below, is oiilv
known to Him who pdned lis too'ether.'
As if Provid(Mice had intended to teach the old man
we niust h
op(
to the last, he soon after received tlie n
I III!
llrX-
pected visit of jNlr. lli.'iiderson, an aL;ent of the IJritisl
Foreii'Mi l>i])!e S«K'ietv, Avho thus rehites his iiiterv
K'W,
Like most of his l>rethren, at this season of the vea
I aii'l
r, AW
ftund him iii lli" meadow assisting his people in hay-inakiiiu'
On hearing;' of our arrival, he nuKh/" all the haste lii'iii.'
Avhich his au'e and inllrmity would allow, and biddinu' ii
welccnie to his lowly abode, ushered us into the hiniiM'
ajnirtnieiit wlu're lie translated my countrvmen into Ice
laiiilir. Tlh' door is not (piite four feet in heij^-ht, and lii'
I'oom may be about eiulit feet in len;^'th by tdx in brcailtli
At the inner end is the jioet's bt.-d, and close to the Aokt
over an'ainst a small window, not exceeding two feet S((iKin'
is a ta1>l(^ where he c(niimits to jiaju'r tin' effusions of lii'
Muse. On mv tellinLi' him that my couiitrvnn'ii woult
have foTa'iven me, nor could f have for^'iven myself, IkmI I
passed throu^-h this part t>f the isla:ul without [>ayiny' liiiii:!
visit, he re[ilied that the translation of INliltou had yicMol
IKU
TIIK roKT OF 1('KI,.\.\1).
!».j
r, v<'
. \n-
1.1 tli.'
■;nlt!i
(|ii;iri'.
(if lii-^
iidt
i
:
Mm iiiaiiv ii ]il('!i^aiit liuiir, and often L;'ivc'u liiiu oi.-i'nsiou to
t!ii:!k of Kii^'liiiul.'"
'\"\i\< visit w,!-; fiillowcil l»_v ai^rc(>ab]o coiisrMjUoiU'OS foi* tli(»
\iiii'ralili' liard. Tlic Literary Fund soon afterwai'ds sent
liiiii a present of o(>/., a modest sum Mce<.)rdinn' to our id<'as,
l>!if a mini' of wealth in tlie eyes of tli'' poor Jcelandie jtriest.
ll!> lifi'. ]i<i\vevt'r, Avas now near its elose, as it is stated in a
slu'it view 'HI' llio Ori^•in, I'ronTess, ami <>pe]-ations of tlu;
^M).-irt\/ <lated ^NFareli •"h-d, ls-_M,tliat 'tlie poet of Iceland
i> niiw in liis ;4'rave; l»nt it is satisfael(»i"y to know tliat tlu3
iitl iition. in this instanee, of a foreiLi'u and riunote society
\<i his L;'ains and his fortunes Avas hi;.:'hly Lia-atifyiuLi' to his
r. riiiiM's, and (/tntrihutcd nnt innnaterially to the eonifort of
iii-^ <()ii(dudiny" days.'
I!,' \\T(ito a letter in very ^deyant Latin, oxpressiiiii" his
li'Mrtfclt Li'ratitudo j »r the kindness and L;'enerosity of the
Society, so aeeordant with the character of the British na-
li:>ii. and accompanied it Avith a M8. copy of his translation.
Till' latter was first printed in Iceland in li^iis, l)nt his own
eiiuinal poems ilid iu»t appear before If^ 12.
Tlie school Avhere most of the Icelandic clerii'ynien, so
I !■ and yet e-onerally so r(>spectal»le in tlu'Ii* poNcrty, art;
e.'uriiti'd, is tiiat of Keylvjavilc. as few only enjuy sti[>eiids
wliich ( nahle theni to study at ('('penhau'en. Tl'.ere they
live several vears under a milder sl<y, they Iiecome acijua inted
vvi'.h llie >]ilend(iur of a lai'ii'e ca]»ital, and thus it miuht he
^.i|ipMM'il Ihat the idea of returning' tn the dr<'ary wastes of
liieir (wn lam! must he intolerable. Yet this is their ardent
tl''^':!e. ;i:i(!. like Ijauislied exiles, they lonu- Inr iheir behived
I ■■■laml. whei-e jaivations ;ind ])enury a\vait thiin.
Ill lie ('hi'islian count iw, perhajis wil h the snh' .-xci-jit ion
'I' l-i['laiid. are the cler^-y so ]ioor as in Iceland, but in none;
I'l they exert a more' l.HUU'licial iiitluence.
Though the island has but the oiie imMic ;i-1|. dj at IJcykj;!-
\ k. yet perhaps in no country is elementary edncatiou more
'_: 'iiendly diiluseil. Lvery mother teaches her childi'eu t(»
I' ad and write, and the [leasaiit, after proNidin^' foi^ the wants
el' 1 1 is fandly Ity the labour of his ha mis, loses no o[ijiort unit y,
ill his leisiu't' honrs, of incnlcat iiiLi' a soniid nioralii\-. Ju
* Ilc!i.ltr-iii"> • 'i'ravt !- ill In'l.unl,' jMs.
06
tin: r(>i,Ai{ \V(»i{i,i>.
these piuiscwortliy (.'florts the parents are supported In- ila-
pastor.
lie who, jud^'hig- from the sordid condition of an leehuuhc
hut, mi^i'lit inia^'inc its inhabitants to l)e no Ijrtter tlian
savagvs, Avonkl so<»n chani^e his opinion were he introduced
on a Avinter L'venin^" into the low ill-ventilated room whtrc
the family of a peasant or a small landholder is assembled,
Vainl}' would he seek a sin^'le idler in the Avhole compiiiiy,
The wonu'ii and g-irls sj^in or knit ; the men and boys iirc ;ill
busy mending- their atj;Tieultural implements and household
utensils, or else ehisellinj^- or cutting' Avith admirable sldll
ornaments or snuff boxes in silver, ivory, or wood. By the
dubious lii^'ht of a tallow lamp, just making- obscurity Aisiljle,
sits one of the fanuly who reads with a loud voice an old
' saga ' or chronicle, or maybe the newest number of tlic
' Northuri'ari,' an Iceland literary almanack, published dmiiig
the hist few years by Mr. Gisle Brinjulfsson. Sometiiacs
poems or whoL} sagas are repeated from n)eniory, and there
are even itinerant story-tellers who, like the troubadoiu's and
trouveres of the middle ages, Avander from one farm to
anothcj', and thus giiin a scanty livelihood. In this manner
the deeds of the ancient Icelanders remain fixed in tlio
memory t>f their descendants, and Snorre >Sturleson, Siinunul,
Frodi, and Eric Rauda are unfurgotten. Nine centuries luive
elapsed ; but every Icelander still knoAvs the mimes of the
proud yarls Avho tirst peopled the fiords of the island ; and tlic
exphdts of the brave viivings Avho spread terror and desela-
tion along- all the coasts of Europe still fdi the hearts ef
the peaceful islanders of our days with a g-loAV of patriotic
pride.
Where education is so general, one may miturally expcit
to find a hig-h cleg-ree of intellectual cultivation among tlie
clergy, the public functionaries, and the Ave>altliier part et
the population. Their classical knowledge is on(.' of the lir.-^t
things that strike the stranger Avith astt)nislnuent. He soes
men whose appearance too frequently denotes an abjtx't
poverty conversant with the g-reat authors of anti(piity, and
keenly alive to their beauties. Travelling- to the Geysirs he
is not Seldom accosted in Latin by his gvude, and stoppnii:'
at a rarui. his host greets him in the same language.
CI.KUK'AF- HnUDITIOX,
97
r liiivc spooially iiiuiit'd Jon 'IMuu'liiksoii. but Toclimd lias
]i)Miliiit'(l iiml still ])r(»(luc('S iniiiiy other iiicii who, without
till' lio]ii» ol' any other reward hut tliat whieh i»i-oooeds from
i|ie pure |(i\-e of hteraiui'e, devote their days and iiin'ht.s to
hilioriniis studies, and live with Vir^'il and Ifoincr under tlio
sunny skies of Italy and (Jreeee. In the si ndy of the modern
laii'ji'uaLi'cs. the Icelanders ai'e as far advanced as ciiii he
(■\|M'rt,'(l IVom llieir limited intercourse with the rest of the
w.ii'M.
Tlie |]n;^Iish lanynaj^'e, in which tJiey find so many words
mI' their own and so many borrowed from the Latin, is (Md-
tivakd liy many of the clero-y. The (lorman ihoy find still
ni.>re easy, and as iill the Scandinavian lanj^'naifcs proceed
IV. 'Ui thi^ same root, thoy have no ditfu-ulty in nndorstandine"
tlie Danish and the Norwo<4'ian tong-uos. Of all tho modern
liiiu'uaLi'es or dialects whicdi have sprnne- frora the ancient
Noise, spoheii a thousand years a;:>'0, all over Denmark, Swe-
licn. and Norway, none has underp;one fewer (diane-es than the
jirjiindic. Tn the sea-ports it is mixed up with many Danish
\\i.vi\< and phrases, hut in the inttn-ior of the island it is still
i il:cii as it was in the tilings of lnt,^olfr and Kric the IJed, and
!i ihewliole island there is no iisherman or day lahoui'er
•\]\n (Idi'.s not perftM'tly understand the oldest Avritine's.
il ;iiay easily he imap,'ined that amono' a people so fond of
'ilcralure, hooks must T)e in ^'reat request. Too poor to l>e
' 'ii-taiilly iiicreasin):>' their sunill collecti<>ns of modern ])ul)-
hV;iii(»ns or of old ' sa^'as ' or chronicles by new acfjuisitions.
"lie assists the (tther. When the ]ieasant o-oes on Sundavs
te church, he takes a, few \i>liimes v.dtli him, ready jo lend
liis incisures to his neiy'hhours, and, on his jiarl, selecis from
MinMiL;" those wlii(di they have hronn'ht for the same [)urpose,
\\ li<ii he is particularly ]ilease<l with a worlc. he has it coj>ied
I' h<>m(\ and it may be hen^ remarked that the Tcelandei-s
■ ii<' tVequeiitly most <\Kcellent calio-raphists.
The foundation of a pul)lic library at lieykjavik in lS21, at
I lie iiistin"ation of the learned Professor ]?.afii of (.V»penha<:>'en,
'•v;is a ^'reat boon to the peo])1e. It is saltl to contain about
I-J»iio volumes, which are Icept un<ler the roof of tlie
' ''licdral. Dooks are freely lent for mouths, or even f(U" a
^'li"Ie year, to the inhabitants oi' rtMiiote districts. This
II
I'b
TIIK rOLAlt WORLll.
liberality is, of ocmrso, attemlcd with soinr nu'onveiiifiu c. Imt
it luiH llio inostininblo advaiitai^e of rondorin;^' a iininb< r ol
^ood works aeeossiblo to numerous families too poor to |iiir-
cliaso til em.
Another excellent institution is the New Fcelandic Literjin
Society founded in 1 810. It has two seats, one in CopenlinL^vn
the other in Reykjavik, and its chief object isthe publiciitinii
of useful works in the laufvuao-e of the country. Besides iin
animal g-rantof 100 specie dollars (217.) awarded to it by tin
Danish government, its income is confined to the yearly con-
tributions of its members,"^" and with this scanty means it
has already published many excellent Avorks.
Thouo-li remote from the busy scenes of the world, Ict'lninl
has three newspapers, the Thyodtholfr and th«^ Tslendiii^ur.
Avhich appear at Reykjavik, and the Northri, which is jml -
lished at Akreyri, on the borders of the Polar Ocean. Tlu
Tslending-ur is said to contain many excellent articles, 1)nt it
would sorely task the patience of those who are accustnincl
to the regidar enjoyment of the 'Times ' at breakfast; us ii
sometimes appears but once in three weeks, and then again.
as if to make up for lost time, twice in eight days.
In spite of their ill-ventilated dwellings and the hardslii-i^
entailed upon tliem by the severity of tlie climate, the Ice-
landers frequently attain a good old age. Of the 2.<'l!i
persons who died in 185S, 2r> had passed the age of ninety.
and of these 20 belonged to the fair sex. The mortalil}
among the children is, however, very considerable ; OOo, ci
nearly one-half of the entire number having died Ijctoiv
the age of five in the year above mentioned. Cutan(^(m>
affections are very common among Icelniuhu'S, as may easily
bo supposed from their liiordid woollen apparel, and the uii-
0* mil less of their huts; and the northern leprosy, ov
' l\V'ir.i/ is constantly seeking out its victims among tlieiii.
Tlily (\\yd'lh\\ disease, which is also found among the fisher-
men in iSl'orway, in Gj*eo7iland, in the Faoroes, in Lapland, ami
in short wherever the same mode of life exists, bea'ins with ;i
swelling of the hands and feet. The l\air falls off; the senses
* Their number in 18G0 was 991. During lii.s Vdjago to Iceland in 18.50 PriiW'
N,\lioloon was namoil honomry prcsiilont, a distinction ho sliarcs witii tlio l>i>I';
of Reykjavik. Amons the 16 houorary ni.'nilier.s 1 find the name of J^nrd Diitfdi:.
Ill ■(•dill
TnAVKF.M.V(i IX ICKLANO.
f!»
Tl
Itiidiiif obtuso. Tumours iippciir on tlio arms aiid loy;'s, ami
Mil ilic t'iici', ^vlli('ll soon los.'s the semblanco of liumanitj.
Scvrrt' pains slioot tlirou^^li l!i<' joints, an ('rn])fion eovcrs
tlif wliolt' Ixxly, an<l (inally clianocs into open sores, cndino-
uiili death. He wliom tli<' leprosy has '>nee attacked is
(In, tilled, for it moidcs all the I'ft'orts of medieal art. For-
tunately the vieiinis <if this slioekiu^' eom]>laini are raiher
nhjt'cts of pity than of <lisj4'ust, and as it is not supj»ose<l to
111' <'onta^'ions, they are not so ernelly forsaken by their rehi-
tii'iis as tlieir fellow-snft'erorB in the East. In the hntof the
piiest of Thino-valla, INIarmier saw a lopor busy j^rindino- eorn.
Si'iiK' of the poorest and most helpless of thes«^ unfortunate
creatures find a refu^-e in four small Jiospitals, where they
;iiv provided for at the pnbli(3 expense.
Sinee a rei^uhir steam-boat comniunioation has been
opined between Iceland, Denmark, and 8(.*otland, the number
lit' tourists desirous of viewing- the matchless natural wonders
lit' tlie island has considerably increased. But travelliny- in
till' island itself is still attended with considerable difHculties
a. Ill no trifliuf,' expense, to say nothin;:^' of the want of all
ciiiii'orts, so that most of its visitors are content with a trip
*'• 'riiin*;'valla and the Geysir, which are but a couple of
ila\ s' jiturney from Reykjavik, and very few, like Mr. Hf)lland,
iiiaKi- tlie entire circnit of the island, or, like Mr. Sh<'pherd,
pliniLie into the hirra inanjintii of its north-western ])eninsula.
Till' onlv mode of travelling' is on horseback, as there are no
rna'is and therefore no carriapfes in Iceland. The distances
i 'I 'tween the places are too o^reat, the rivers are too furious,
and the boy's too extensive to allow of a walkinu;- ionr bei)i<;'
liiiide. Even the tourist Avitli the most niodt^st pr(4<'nsions re-
'piii'i's at least two riding horses for himself, two fn tr his o-nido,
;iiid two packhorses, and when a larij^er comjtany travcds, it
iilways forms a cavalcade of from twenty to thirty horses, tied
lii'ad to tail, the chief i^'uide mounted on the first and leading-
'ill' string', the other accelerating* its motions by o-t'sticula-
'n, sundry oaths, and the timely a,j>plication of the whip.
uii'tred
\v
T!n' way, or the path, lies either over beds of lava, so r
tliat the horses are allowed to pick their way, or over Intn'^'y
'iionnd where it is eqnaHy necessary to avoid those places into
^vliicli the animals mio'ht sink n]> to their belly, but which,
H 2
100
Tin: \'()\A\l WOUM>.
uIhmi left t(» tlo'insrhcs, ilicy oi't' rciinii'lxiiltly sldllul in
tlclcclin;^'. U'iili llic solitiiry cxocption of o few |»I;iiik>
i liro'vii ii<T<»ss the IJi'iiri-.i, uihI a l\in<l ot'swiiij;' l))'i<I;4o, or /•/"//■.
(MOitrivod for pas.siii;^- the riii)i(l Jiikulsii, there are no bridi^cs
over the rivers, so llial the only way io <4'et across is to ride
tliroii<:'h thi'iu — a. I'eat whieli, eoiisith'riiiL!- tlie usual vehnih
ol' their current, is not sehhnu attended witli consideralilr
(hin^-er, as will l)e seen l>y the t'oll(»win<^' uecount of thf
crossiuL!' of the Skeidara l>v ^Iv. Holland.^'"
'Our j^aiide,' says this intre])id traveller, ' uri^vd on liiv
horse thnmi^h the stream, and h-d the way t(»wards the miil
Klatr.
channel. \\v foUowed in his wake, and soon were all stein-
]nin<j;- the iiupetuous and s.vollen torrent. Tn the course of
our journey Ave had before this crossed a p,'Ood many rivrr.x
more or less deep, but all oi" them had been mere chiM-
play compared to that whidi we wore now fordinj^'. Tli»'
aui^ry water rose hi^h aLi'ainst our horses' sides, at tiiiiis
ahoost comin|ji' over the tops of their shoulders. The s[ir:iy
from their broken crests was daslie<l n]> into our faces. Tin'
stream Avas soswitt that it was impossible to follow the imli-
vidual waves as they rushed past us, and it almost made us
di/zy to look down at it. Now, if ever, is the time for linn
hand or rein, sure seat, ami steady eye; not only is the strciim
so stron*>-, but the bottom is foil of ]arj:>"e stones, that tin'
horse cannot see thvou<4h the murky waters ; if ho shouM
fall, the torrent will swee]» you down to the S(.'a — its wliiti'
breakers are plaiidy visil)le as they run aloni;' the shore at
s<nrcely a mile's distance, and they lap the bea(di as if tln'V
u!,;di
\\"i
1','mIs. I'm^vs
Ch
ri»|{l>IN(; A TOUKK.NT.
101
u;iitf({ fnr llii'ir [^Vi'V. Il!i[t[iily, they will bo dis:ip[K>iiil(Ml.
SwiMiiuiii^ would be of* ii«» use, but \\u IcclinMlic wattT-liorso
>:'Mi.iii niiikt's ii blunder or a false ste]). Not the least oftlie
ri>k-> \vc iMU in eru.ssin<>' the Skeiilara, wiis from the masses
<.f i( I' earvied »h)\vn by the stream from the JiUcull, manv ol'
tlii'iii ljcin<4" liirp' eiiouj^'h to knock ii horse ovt'r.
* l'uiiun;itely we found much less ice in the e(>ntre liiid
^v.irtc>t |i;irl oftlie river, where.' we werciible t<t see iiiid ii void
il, than in the si<le ehiinncjs. lb>w the hoises were iible to
>taiiil a^-ainst sueh a stream was marvellous; they 0(nild not
i\>> so unless they were constantly in the habit of cros>inij,-
swift I'ivers. The icelaiider.s wlio live in this pi'.vt of the
i-!aiil keen horsi>s known for their (lUiilities in fordin*;'
dilliiiilt r!\i-i's, and they ]iever vi'uture to cross a danL;"ei'ons
str^Miii utdess mounted on a tried water-horse. The action
'i| the Icelandic horses when ciMssin^" a sv.ift river is \fry
jieriiiiai'. They leaii all their wein'hl a^'ainst the st i-eani. so
;'.-■ tovcsi'.! ii as much as nossible. and move onwai'ds with a
iieriiliai' side-i-iei). This niojinu is not a"'reeabie. !'i fe* Is
i 1 n
as ii'y.iur horse were marlcin'r time witliout ;,;'Minini4' ^^roiiihl,
and ill.' |»ro:;'ri'ss made beiin;' really vei'y sl.iu'. the ;-hore fre.ui
\v!i";'!i VMii vrirted seems to rec-ede fr.e.i yoM. wltihd that !''r
wlilch Veil are malln:;' a]i])ears as far as (>\i'r.
■ When we rea( hed th.e middle of the stream, llie r^iar (d'
il'c v.aters wa;; so ^jivat that v.'e could scarcely make onr
v.iiies audible to one another; they v/ere overpowered by the
' rinichiiiLi' sound of the iee, and the bumpiny of kirn'" stones.
■ luainst the bottoui. U]> to this point a diagonal line, rather
• liiwii stream, liad l)een eautiously followed; !)iit when we
• Mill'' to ilie nudille, we turned our horses" heads a little
;iu'i!iii''^t the stream. As we thus altered oiu' cdiu'se, the Idii^-
line el' l)au'^'aM'e-horses ap[n'art'd to be swull^' round alto-
u'tjii V. lis if swept olf their h>^•s, None of them, howexcr,
^ i"ke away, and they continued their advance without accl-
ilent : and -at lenj^-th we all r(>aehed the shore in safety."
After a day's journey in Iceland, rest, as msiy well be
>Wj.eosed, is highly afce[)table. Instead of passing' ihL'ni>j;-ht
in the peasaid"s Init, the traveller, "when no ehurcdi is at
li.nid, ;4-em rally prefers pittdduij," his teid near a ruunin;^'
siieam oil a e-rassy plain; but someliuies, iii eoiisequeuee of
102
Tin: POLAR WOHLI).
<lie o-rciit (liHtanci' from one hiibiliiblc pliu-i.' to aiiotlu'r, lie is
oblit^'oil to ciicaiiip ill the mulHt of a bo^- wluTc tlic ihh>y
hoYHva liml citlit'i- l)a(l lii>rbH, scarcely lit to satisfy tli.ir
Imn^'or, or no food at aJl. After they have been iinloadr.l,
their fore-le^s are bound to^'etlier above their h(»ofs, so as to
prevent them straying' too far, whik' their masters arrauyo
t hemselves in tlie tent as comfortably as thoy can.
The Gi cat Auk.
^•iiitli
uall.s,
>i(iniiv
\ icileut
tuvtli :
laiidiiii
«»J»
llvr-r-i'iall.
CJlAPTFJi VI 11.
TIIK WKSTMAN ISLANDS.
T!i- \S'i-liii;uis 'I'lii'ir i\ti'i'iiii' DilVirulty I't" Aoecns -lluw tlicy bconnio poDplcil
llciiii.'icy Kimrstalliir.iiul OlUiilrvlc - Slicfp llni^linu; — Kif^'Oatlicriii^' hi'did-
iiil Miirlalilv aiiiuiiur tli,. ('liiKlrin 'I'li,' (linkli<li — ( iiiitlciiuui .loliii -- 'I'lu'
M-ri'i.iii I'inilcs liri-.uH'ul SiilK'i'iiiyis (if llif Islamlci-s.
I) ISIN(; iilnMiptl} IVoiu the sen t<» ii height of 1)1(5 i'eet, tlic
t small Westiiiiiii Islands are no less i»ietui'estjUe tliaii
iliflieiilt i»r access. Many a iraveller while sailiii;.;- aloiio- the
suiitli cuiist (>r Icelaiul has adiiiired tlielr towering' roclc-
ualis, l)ut in» moileru tourist has ever laiuled thei'e. I'or so
>tniiii\- ;i sea rolls between them and the iiiainlaiid, and so
\inl('ut are tlu' currents, which the slightest ^viiid brings
ti'i'th in the narrow channels of the archi[)elag<t, that a
lainling can be etfeett.'d only when the Aveather is perfectly
<mIiii. The Dril'anda foss, a cascade on the opposite niaiu-
laiid, rushing- from the brow of the Eyafyalla range in a
inliiinn of some 800 or UOO feet in height, is a sort of
Itaionieter, which decides whether a boat can put olf with a,
|iios[)ecl ol' gaining the Weslmans. In stormy weatiier the
101
TIIK I'OLAIi wold, I).
Wind ('(Myiiio- iuiioiij^- llic clilt's convci'ts <1h> I'lill, tlimiili
oniisi<lc'i'iiI-»l(', into ii cloud (tf s[»niy, Avliidi is dissi[»atr(| in
till' iitiiiosplu'rc, s<» tliiit no ciiscude is visible iVoni llu' bciicli.
In (.'iihn wciiihcr, ilic column is intiiid, iind if it rcniiiins s..
(wo ditys in succession, then tlic sen is iisuiilly (-iilni cnoii^li
lo ;ill()\v bonis to land, and they venture out. As tin' b .■
liindiTs, tlu'ouLj-b stormy weather, iire tVe(iuenily cut oil" I'imim
mrr
HI
Vn-
Euroj)*', HO the inliiibittints of the AVestmans are still ii
fre([uently cut off from Iceland, and it is seldom more tli
once a year that the mails are landed direct. The /'.
betters from Denmark ffoi tiu; corresponibMice is in all j
babiliiy not very active) aie landed in Iceland at Reykjavik,
and thence for\var<b'<l to tlu' isl.mds by boat, as chance iiiii\
(ttfor, for, during' the whole wini<r and the <.;reater pari ni
the summer, conununication is im])ossible. It will jiitw lio
un<h'rsto(id why tourists are so little inclined to visit lIu'
VVestmaus, des[iite the i):a".';ii('feiic'' <■!' i lieil' <'oasl ><ceiici'\.
I'oi' who has the jiat ience i<> tarry in a iiiiserabl(> Iml on ili,'
o|>])osite mainland, till the cascade informs liini thai I
are accessible, or is ineliiied to rini the risk of beiui^" (Ida:
1)V a, sudden cliauLi'e of the wi-atber. for v/eelcs or even i
n('\
lllMl
noil) ii~
tl
on lUese soutarvrocKs
.'k
The pntlin, or the screechiji;L^' sea-mew, seem the o3ily
habitaids for which natui'c has htted thi; AVesliuans,
vet thi»v have a lustory which leads us ba(d\- to the ti
when Iceland itself lirst became Icuowu lo man.
111-
aiiu
lar-
Aboiil l^T^t, a few ^cars alter iuiiolfr
ojjowed his hiiiisf-
hold l;'o(1s to T'eykjavik, a ^^'ol•we^•iau pirate, [.ei'cliaiice niir
of the associates of that historical persoiian'e, landeil on tlir
coast of Ireland, attacked with lire and sword thedefciicc-
less [)o[)nlation, captnred forty or lil'ty persons, inen, wiiiicii.
and children, and carried them otf as skives.
he pa
ssir.
nnist have been anythinn' but pleasant, for it «^ave tli
llil)ernians such a foretaste of the wretchedriess that awaiti^
them in Iceland, their J'uture abode, that tak
viu!'' coiir.iuv
from despair, they rose on their captors, threw them ovt i-
board, and went ashov
e oi!
Ilie Hrst land thev niet with
A day of rare serenity must have witnessed their an'ivnl
on tlie Westmans, a sjtot which of all others S!«emed iiifi>t
unlikely to beconio their home, W'liv thev remained IIkiv.
(■nl.oMSATinS u|' Till: WKSTMANS,
1(1.'.
i> ;i scirct (it" the piist : most liKi'ly llicv liinl ii«» ollur
iilti'i'iKitivc. iitnl fVccdiiiii oil ii I'dclv wiis, iit nil cvciils, lu'tfrr
iliiiii sl;iv«'i'v iiiidcr ;i cnirl \il;iii^'.
Tliiis these \veiitlii'r-lie;i<eii isleN were fii'st i)f(>j»le<l liyineii
tV..iii the west, wlu'iit'e they <leii\i' their ii;iine, iiml it is siip-
|iu>r(l ihiit the present iiihiihit ilits iii'e the th'sceinliilits ol'
tlm^e eliildi'eii (if I'lriii. No one \vill be iiieliiied to ciivy tliem
ihe heritil^'e be(|iieiilhed to them hy their lathi is.
The Westmuns iii'e tinirteen in ninnl)i r ; hut of these only
t>]\'\ Cillli'l
I lleillliie\ , or Home Ishlll'l, is iidiahited. It
lii'leeii miles from the coast of Iceland, and forty-li\e fiMiii
llekda. 'Jdioiio'h hir^-er than nil the othci-s put to^^H't her, its
entire surface is not more ihaii ten sijU.ire miles. It is
.liiimst surrounded with ]ii;;h basaltic cliffs, and ;iii oiherwise
iioii-h(»uud si lore ; its interior is covered with black asliy-
liM.kini^' cones, bearin-^ undoubted evidence ol' volcanic action :
ill fact, the barbour, which lies on its north-east siije, and is
.■iil\ accessil)le Jo small craft, is loriiicd out ot' an old crater,
into w hie h the sea has worn mi cut r;;ni'e. The iiihalMtauts aii-
I'm;iIi'(| in two villa^'cs; Kanj-siat liir on a iiltle j.'.'r.issy kiioll,
i!.ar the landiiit.;'-jtlaci', and <)faii!ewi on the i.',rassy [ilatfoim
n\ liie island. ()nly three of the other islets prtnbice anv
vc^ilalioii ov [i!isturae-(', and it is said tliat, on (tie (.f these,
the ^heep are boivsted with a rope out of the boats by an
islaiidei'. wlio, a( the rislc of his neck, has climbed to the top
iif the precipitous rock. The others are mere naked clitls (u*
allic pillars, the alxxle of innnuu-rable sea-l)irds, "wliieli,
1 [>reeious resource to the islanders.
\'A
wneii accessiijie, arc
bh
ir, as may well be suppost'd, the scanty ^'rass lauds alford
rislmieiit but to a few cows and sheep: and as the unruly
iii'ii
waters too often [>revent their fishiny-boats from jmttiiii;' to
-'■■\. they depend in a e-reat measure for their subsistence
iipeii tlie sea-birds, in Avliose capture they exhibit wonderful
r:iL;e and skill. Ln the e^'i^'-seasoii they l;o to ihe top of
lie (.lilf, and puttiiif^' a. rop(; round a man's waist, let him
n tlie side of the perjiendicidar rock, one, two, or three
imdreil feet ; on arrivin-)- at the hmn', narrow, horizontal
-.1(1
(!n\V
-liclvcs, h
pr
'(.)CecH
];-i to fill a laro-(> liau' Avith the britth
\v>
;iai
;isirres (h'posited by the birds. \\di(>n his ba^' is full, he
I his e|4'gs are drawn to the to[> by bis companions. If
vveop
iOJ
Tin-: roLAii would.
lilt' ropo brcalvS, or is cut off by the nluirp corners of tin-
ruck, which, liuwever, happens Imt seldom, nothin;n' can suvc
the luckless fowler, who is either precipitated into the sea, mi
(lashed to pieces on the rocks below.
At a later period in the season they yo and o-et the
youno; birds, and then they have often desperate battles
with the old ones, who will not ^-ive up hghtiu'^- for their
ott'sijring- till their necks are l>roken, or their brains knocketl
out with a club. Where the cliffs are not accessible iroiii
the top, they j^'o roimd the bottom in b(»ats, and show si
wonderful ag'ility and darine; iu scaling- the most terribl"
precipices.
In summer they eat the ey'j^'s and the fresh meat of llic
yomig- birdf', which they also salt for tlie winter. 'V\h;
feathei's form their chief article (»f export, besides dried and
salted (odMsh, and willi these ihey [»rocure their few ne-
cessaries and luxuries, consisting- [»rinci[>ally of clotliiii;^'.
tobacco and snuff, s])irits, lish-hooks and lines, and salt.
Xa there is no peat on these islands, nor dried Hsh-bones in
suiticient quantity, they also make use of the touyh old sea-
birds as fuel. For this purpose they split them open, ami
dry them (»n the rocks.
The Westmans form a se])arate Syssel or co\uity, and tliev
have a church, and usually two clergymen. Their clunvli
was rebuilt of stone, at the exj>ense of the Danish govern-
ment, in 1771', and is sai<l to be one of the best in Tceland.
Unfortunately the two clerg-ymeu to whom tlie s[»iritual can'
of the islanders is conlided seeju to have but a very iii-
ditferent Hock, for their nei<^hbours on the mainland '/nr
rather a bad character to the inhabitants of lleiniaev.
describiiiL;" them as «4'reat sluy^ards and drunlcards.
The populatit)n, which was formerly more couHiderabic.
amounts to about 2<»() souls, but even this is more iliaii
mi^ht be expected from the dreadful mortality wliich ri'ii^ii^
anionj^' the children. The e«j;-^4-s and the oily tlesli of sea-
l»irds furnish a miserable food for infants, particularly when
weaned, as is here customary, at a very early ai;e; but llic
[loor islauders Jiave nothii}«4' else i(» oive them, exc('[>t snine
lisli, and a ver_) insuflicient (juantity <tf cow's oj" sheep's milk.
This unhealthy diet, alou^' with the boisterous air, <j;ives rise
KXPLOITS OF riRATKS.
107
\i> ,111 incurable infiintile disease called (jinkloti (fflanits).
Its lirsi symptoins are squinliii^- and rt-lliiij^- of the «'yes, the
iiiusrles of the back are seized with incipient cranii)S and
Invdiuc stiff. After a day <»r two lock-jaw takes place, tlie
Lack is bent like a bow, either backwards or forwards. The
l(.rk-jaw [»revents swalhnvino-, und the cramps become more
trc(jiu'ut and prolon<i;ed initil death closes the scene. The
saiiic disease is said to decimate the children on St. Kilda in
(•tinse(|uence of a sinular mode of life.
The (jnly means of preserving- the infants of Heimaey
(loni the (rinkloli, is to send them as soon as possible to the
iiiainland to be reared, and thus a lony continuance of bad
weather is a death-warrant to many.
Who woidd suppose that the Westman islanders, doubly
guarded by their poverty and their almost inaccessible cliffs,
<<»vdd ever have become the prey of freebooters V and yet
I hey have been twice attacked and pillag'cd, and well-ni^'h
I'xleniiinated by sea-rovi'rs.
I have already mentioned, in a previous cha])tev, that before
the tliseovery oi" the l»anks of Newfoundland, the Eng'lish
i-od-lishers used to resort in ;^reat nund)ers to the coasts of
lielaiid, where some of them — now and then — apj>eared
also ill the more ([uesli(»nable character of corsairs. One of
these worthies, who like Paul Clifford, or Captain Macheath.
-'• ('tfeetually united the snarl fir iti oioilo w^ith tin.' foi'tUnr
'/' /v, :is to have merited the name of ' (jlentleman John,'
'•anil- to the Westmans in lOl !•, and set the church on lire.
il'tiT liaviiiL;' jtreviously removed the little that was worth
lakiiiL;. After this ex[)loit he retunie(l \o Creat Britain, but
•\iiiL;' .lames I. had him Iiuiil;', and ordered the church
"iiiaiiiejits which he had robbed ti> be restored to the poor
islanders. It was, howevei-, written in the b(n)k of fate that
they were not to enjc»y them lon;^', for in h»27. a vessel ot
Al^-t'iine pirates, after [tlunderiiiij;' several [tlac(^s on the
I astern and southern coasts of Iceland, fell like a tlnindeibolt
"II Heimaey. These JMisereauls. compared with wln»m J(din
\\as a * <4'entleman ' indeed, cut dt.>wn every man who ven-
Miiol t<_> ojijiose them, pliiiidcred and burnt the new-built
hiiicli. and every hovel of iln- [dace, and carried away ab(»nl
loo prisoners — men, women, and children. One of the two
108
TIIK I'OLAIl WOKiil).
clergymen of tlio island, Jon Torstoinson, -vvas ninrdi'i-od
at tliu tiiiK'. This learned and pious man luid translated Uw
Psalms of J)avid and tlie Book of Genesis into leediMidic
verse, iind is spoken of iis the ' innrtyr ' in tlie history dl'
the land. The other clerj^'yniiin, Oliif E«^-ilson, ■with his
wife and (diildren, and the rest of the prisoners, ^vas soLl into
slavery in AI;^-i(>rs. The aeeonnt of his sufferings and j.ii-
vations, Avlii(di he Avroto in the Icelandic hin^>'naye, m:\>
afterwards transhited and published in Danish.
It Avas not until KJoi), idne years after their capture, Unit
the unfortunate lleitnaeyers were release(l, and then only In
bi'inL;- ransomed l)y the Ivin^' of neninai'k. Smdi amis the
misery they had endured from llx'ir hai'hantus tasl^inastcis.
that only thirty-seven of the whole nnmber survived, and "I
these l)ut thirle(>n lived to reiuni (o (heir nalive Irdand.
liic Wild Oootc,
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vnn.:i-r tvnuen. ijofo'i-ii Islau-.k
CllAPTKK TX.
ritoM J)I{ONTHEIM TO TIIK NOimi CAl'E.
.Mild Cliiiialp i)f tlir N(jr\vei;i:iii (_^);l^t - Its Cuuscs — 'I'lio Norwojiiaii l\\isaiit —
Xm'wcniaii Consl il iilioii lioinanl if Coast .'-'(•t'lR'i'y— Droiillicim — Grciffi'iil'i'ld
llnliii,' iiinl N'iiiv - 'I'lic Si';i-l']aglo— 'I'lh; llcrrini; I'lslicrirs 'J'lio Lot'otoii
l-laiiils 'I'lit' Voi[ iMslicrirs Wrclclnd ('uiulit'Kni ot' llic J'^ishcniii'ii Troniso — •
Aluiilioi'd 'I'lic Coiipcr Mines -llaiiiiiu'i'lol tile nmst Mdi'llicni Town in tlio
\V,,rl,l The Noj'lli Cai-o.
<VF ALL the lands situated either uithiii or near the Aretie
' Cireh.' none enjoys a more temperate elimate than the
Norweii,'ian coast. Here, and nowliere else throughout the
northern world, the birch and the fir tree climb the mountain-
slopes to a lieiyhi of TOO or 800 feet above the level of the
sr;i, its far its the 701h dei4're(> of liititud(> : here we still find ;i
no
TIIK 1'0I.AR WORM).
fhmrisliin^ ni^ricultnrc in tlu' intovior «»f tlu' Miilaiii^i'V Fjoid
in iVr.
On tlio ()pposito side of tlio Polar (Voan extontls the in
iioccssiblo ice bolt of East Groenhnul ; Hpitzlu'r^'on an<l
Novaya ZcMulya are not 400 niilos distant from Talvij^- and
Haniniorfest, and yet those ports are never blocked with ice.
and even in the depth of winter renniin constantly open in
navijTfation.
What are the causes wliicli in this favoured rej^'ion banisli
the usual rigors of the Arctic Zone'P How conies it that tlie
winter even at the North Cape (mean temperature +22'') is
inucli loss severe than at Quebec (mean temperature + 1 1 ).
which is situated 2^)° of latitude nearer to the equator?
The liig-h mountain chains which separate Norway from
Sweden and Finland, and keep off' the eastern gales issnin^;-
from the Siberian wastes, Avhile its coasts lie open to the
mild south-westerly winds of the Atlantic, no doubt account
in some measure for the comparative mildness of its climate ;
but the main cause of this phenomenon must no doubt he
sought for in the sea.
Flowing* into the Atlantic Ocean between Florida and Cuba,
the warm gulf-stream traverses the sea from w^est to east,
and although about the middle of its course it partly turns to
the south, yet a, considerable portion of its waters flows on-
wards to the north-east, and streaming through the wide
portal between Iceland and Great Britain, eventually reacli(\^
the coasts of Norway. Of course its warmth diminishes as
it advances to the north, but this is imparted to the winds
that sweep over it, and thus it not merely brings the seeds ni'
tropical plants, from equatorial America, to the coasts of
Norway, but also the far more important advantages of ii
milder temperature.
The soil of Norway is generally rocky and sterile, but the
sea amply makes up for the deficiencies of the land, and with
the produce of their fisheries, of their forests, and their njines,
the inhabitants are able to purchase the few foreign articles
which they require. Though poor, and not seldom obliged to
reap the gifts of nature amidst a thousand hardships and
dangers, they envy no other nation upon earth.
Tlu^ Norwx^gian peasant is a free man on the scanty bit of
RDUCATIOX I.V NOHWAY,
111
niMiiMil wliicli he liJi/H inliorito<l iVoDi h'lH fathers, aiiil lit' liiis
;ill the virtues of a fi'oeinan — an open eharaeter, a niiixh-hMr
nlt'very falsehood, an liospitahio heart for the stranj^-er. His
rt'H<4ions feelin<jfs are deep and sincere, and the Bibh» is to
l)e found in every hut.
He is said to bo indolent and phlef,nua+ic, but when ne-
(Tssity ur<ifOS he sets vigorously to work, and never eeases
till his taslc is done. His courage and his ]>atri(>tisin are
iil)undantly proved by a history of a thousand years.
Norway owes her present prosperity chi(Mly to her lilx-ral
constitution. The press is completely free, and the powrr ol
the king extremely limited. All privileges and hereditary
t ities are abolished. The parliament or the ' storthing,' which
assembles every three years, consists of the 'odelthing' or
upper house, and of the 'logthing' or legislative assendily.
Fivery new law requires the royal, sanction, but if the stor-
thing has voted it in three snceessivc sittings, it is defini<ivel\
ailopted in spite of tlio royal veto. Public education is a<l-
luifably cared f<»r. There is an elementary school in every
village, and wliere the j)opnlation is too thinly scattered, the
schoolmaster may truly be said to be abroad, as he wanders
tVoni farm to farm, so that the most distant families have the
liciielit of his instruction. Every town has its public library,
and in many districts the peasants annually contribute a dollar
towards a collection of books, which, under the care of the
priest, is lent ont to all subscribers. No Norwegian is con-
tinned who does not know how to read, and no Norwegian is
allowed to marry who has not been confirmed. He who
attains his twentieth year withont having been confirmed has
to fear the House of Correction. Thus ignorance is punished
as a crime in Norway, an excellent example for far richer and
more powerful nations.
The population of Norway amounts to about 1 ,r{r,0,()0(), but
these are very uncHpially distribnte«l, for while the southern
province of Aggerhnus has 51:5,000 inhabitants on a surface
of :'..'), 200 square niiles, Nordland has only r)<),000 on ]fi,:}2r),
and Finmark, the most northern province of the land, but
:>^,000 on 29,025, or hardly mor(^ than one inhabitant to
evmy square mile. Hut even this scanty ])opulation is im-
inens(^ when compared with that <^f Eastern Siberia or of th<'
112
TiiK i'or,\ii woKi.n.
fTudsoirs ]\\\y t('rrit<»ri(>s, iiml entirely owes its oxistenrc (d
the iiiililiu'ss of tlio cliiiiato and tlio open sea, which at nil
seasons iiffor<ls its produce to the fisherman.
It isdiftii'ult to iniaj^'ine a more secluded, solitary life tliiin
tliiit of ih<' ' homlers,' or peasiint ]>roi»rietors, silon^' tlie
norHiern coasts of N<u'\viiy. The farms, confined to the small
|)atches of m(»i'e fruitful ;^i-(»und scattered alon^- the fjoi'ds, a1
the foot or on the sides of llie ual«'d mountains, are fre(|uenilv
many miles dislaiit from Iheir neiylilxturs, iiiid the stormy
winter cuts off all communication hetweeu tluun. Thus
every family, reduced to its own resources, forms as it were a
snnill commonwealth, which has hut little to do with fin'
external world, and is oblij^'cd to rely for its happiness on
internal harmony, and a, moderate competency. 8tran^'er,s
seldom invade their soHtu<h', for they are far from flic
ordinary tracks of the tourist, and yet a journey from
Drontheim to TTammerfest and the North (\'i]ie affords many
objects of interest w^ell worthy of a visit. The only mo(h' of
comuuuiicatifui is by sea, for the land is everywliere inter-
sected by deep fjords, bounded Ity one ccnitinuons cluiin ol'
precipitous cliff's and rocks, varyin<i;- from one thousand to foui'
thousand feet in heij^ht. I'\)rmerly, ev(»n the sca-voyaj^'c was
attended with considerable difficulties, for the niiseriibjc
'•'■ yoeg't," or Scandinavian sloop, the only means of convey-
ance at the disposal of the traveller, required at the best of
tiiues at least a month to perform the voy a <>-e from Drontlieiui
to llannnerfest, and in case of stormy weather, or contrary
Avind, had often to wait for weeks in some intermediate port.
Now, however, a steamer leaves the port of Drontheim every
Aveek, and conveys the traveller in five or six days to flic
remote northern terminns of his joiu-ney. Tnnnmerable isles,
of every size, from a few yards in diameter to as many miles,
stnd the line of coast, and between these and the mainland
the steamer ploug-hs its way. Sometimes the channel is
as narrow as the bed of a riven*, at others it expands into ;i
mig'hty lake, and the ever-varying' forms of the isles, of the
fjords, and of the mountains, constantly open new a,nd mag"-
niflcent prospects to the view. One grand colossal picture
follows npon anotlun', bnt unfortunat(dy few or none show the
[ireseiice of man. Frou) time to time only some lishing-hi.at
m
make
rises
north
veg.'t
trave
Dlio.NTilKIM.
ll.J
iiKilccs its jipjx'iWiiiKM' uii lilt' st.'ii, (»!' soim* wooden raniilioiiso
visrs on the solit;irv IiodcIi. On iidviincinii' riirthoi- 1o llio
north, tilt' iis[K'('t of mitni't' b 'conu's moiv and nitn't.' sloi'u,
Vc'i4'i 'tilt ion (linunishcs, iniin is moro ravfly si'on, und tlii^
tiMvt'llcr fffls tis it' lit3 Avciv (Ml the point of t'ntt'riii^ the
t;|ooMiy ri'^ions of iKM'potuiil death.
With the Solo oxeoption «if Aivhaiii^t'l, DrtJiitluMiii is the
most populous and iini»ortant town situated in so liii^h a
h the cradle of ancient Scaiidi-
id the residence of a lon<r line of kind's, it
»"'
latitutle as G:{^ 21', Alt,ht)uu'
navian history, ai
looks as if it had been built but yesterday, as its wooden
houses have frequently been destroyed by lire. The choir of
ils niaiiiuticent cathedral, built in the eleventh century, and
once the resort of innumerable pilgrims \vho came lIockiiiL;'
tt) the shrine of St. (^lave from all tScaudinavia, is the only
n'maininn' memorial of the ( !d Tronyein of the Norse an-
1 scalds. The modern town has a most pleasing
na
and
list.>
iiiitl a<4'reeable appearance, and the lively colours with which
the houses are paintetl harmonize with the prosperity of its
iidiabitanls, whitdi is due in a <>Teat measure to its thriv-
)]\'^ lisheries and to the rich iron and copper mines in its
neii^-hbourhood. The tall chimneys of many smeltiiij^'-hvits,
iron foundries, and other manufactories, bear evidence that
modern imlustry has found its way to the ancient capital of
Norwav. Ill point of picturesque beauty, the bay, on a
peninsula of which the town is situated, does not yield to that
of Naples. Up and down, in every direction, a})pear the
villas of the merchants, and ships of all burden ridinj^- at
anchor in the bay, and boats passin;:»' and repassing". In a
small island of the bay, frontino- the town, is the celebrated
castle of Munkholm, where in former times many a i)risoner
of state has bewailed the loss of his libertv. Here, amoim-
otliers, Greiifenfeld, who had risen from obscurity to the rank
of an all-powerful minister, Avas incarcerated for eiuhteen
years (KISO {»8).
At Hildringen, where the potato is still cultivated with
success, and barley ripens every four or five years, beyins
the province of Nordland, Avhich extends from 05° to 09" oO'
X. lat. The mostly uninhabited isles along; the coast are
called ' Holme,' when rising like steep rocks out of the
I
II t
TIIK i'OLAK WOULI*.
water, ninl ' Viirc ' wlicii Hut iiinl l)ut liltlc clfViiicd iilicnc
tlu! level of llie sea. 'I'lie hitter iire tlie l>re».'<liiiy'-itliiees nt
iiuniberless seii-t'uwls, wlioso o<^<^s yield ii welcome liurvesl to
tilt; iiiliahitiiiitis ot llu' neij^'lilxuiriii^' Miaiiiliiii<l, or <>l' tlic
laryer islands. A well-stocketl e};';j,'-viir is a valuable iiddilidii
to a farm, and descends from i'atlier to son, aloii;^- with Ihf
pasture-<j,'roinids and tla; hordH of the patermil land. WIkii
the proprietor conies tt) jthnider the nests, the hii-ils I'eiiiiiin
(piiet, for they know by experience that only the sn]»erlliiuiis
ogys are to be removed. But not \nifre(|uently sti-an^tn's
land, and h'iive not a sin;j;le e^i^' behind. Then all the birds,
several thousands at once, rise from their nests, and till the
air with their doleful cries, [f such disasters occur ri'i>eatedly
they lose couraj^'e, and ahandoninjj;' the scene of their niisi'ui-
tuiios, retire to another viir. Most of these birds arc 8ea-<iMi]ls
{MaasJ'iuil, or M(i((ijc), their eg'<.;"8 are large, and of a not dis-
aj^reeablc taste. The island of Lovunneii is the favourih.'
breedin^'-place of the pnttin, which is hij^lily esteemed on
account of its feathers. This silly bird is very easily caught.
The fowler lets down an iron hook, or sends a, dog trained
on purpose into the narrow clefts or holes of the rock, whert'
the puffins sit croAvded together. The first bird being pulled
out, the next one bites and lays hold of his tail, and thus in
succession, till the whole family, clinging togetlnn' like ;i
chain, is dragged to light.
This rocky coast is also juuch frequi'nted by the sea -eagle.
who is very- nuich feared over the whole province, as he not
only carries away lambs and other small animals, but even
assails and not seldom overpowers the Norwegian oxen. His
mode of attack is so singular that it Von Buch had not heuid
it so positivelyand so circumstantially related in various j)liiti's.
situated at great distances from each other, he Avould willinLjIy
have doubted its truth. The eagle darts down into the Avavos.
and then rolls about with his Avet plumage on the beach until
his Aviugs are quite coA'ered with sand. Then he once more rises
into the air and hoA'crs OA^er his intended victim.
Swooj
nni
down quite close to him, he claps his Avings, flings the smul
into the eyes of the unfortunate brute, and thoroughly scares
it by repeated bloAvs of his pinions. The blinded ox rushes
away to avoid the eagle's attacks, until he is completely
exhausted, or tuiribles down some precipitous cliff.
Tin: i.(»r(»Ti;\ isi.wns.
\\,i
am
ICC
IIL'I
Tllf scii rniist tl(»in Alstt'ti Id I'otliM', wllirll is ci'tisst'd l>_vtllt'
Antif Cirrlc, is piirtiniliirlv lidi in lirrrin^s, us it I'liriiishos
IlK^rc fllllM OIH'-llillt nl" tllC lisll CXjKtrtctl to llfl'I^TIl.
Ill rt'S|»i'('t of tlu' fiipitiil iiivt'stcd, tlif coil-lislit'ry must bo
ft'l^iinlfd iis till' most iiii|iortiilit ot" tin* Xol'\V(';;'iiili iln'p-st'a
lisiirrii's, but in tlir iiiiiiiliri' of liauds riiii>lo\i.'il, tin' lii-i-riii;,'-
lisliiTV takes pi't'ccili'iii'i'. TIr' number of iiicu net iiiilv en-
L^M^^Til ill the liitter is not less than (iii,(MM», ami eonsiib'rably
more than (h»ubli' that numl)er ai'e dii'eetly oi' imlii'eetly
iiiteresteil in the result of their operations. The heri'in;;'S
taken ill iSC.d lilleil 7.'»<>.(iO() l)arrels, each weighing- '2'2i
lbs., the lar;4'est eateli ever taken oil tho Nor\ve<jfiau coast, at
least ill ri'eeiit years. As the moveiiient.s of the tish are ex-
tremely erratii', lar;4e shoals Ijeiii^*- found one year in a ]»art
of the eoast where none will be seen the year folIo\viu<4', the
tishermeu are forced to move from phice to place, and formerly
the herriiie\s freijueiitly oscaj od alto^'ether for want of hands
I caitture them. Now this diiliculty is in a ^-reat measure
removed. Telec^-rapli stations are erected at dill'erent phices
ell the coast, from whicli the movements of the shoals are
( iirefiilly watchi'd ; and lield-tele^-rajdis are kept in readiness
tu be joined on to the main line, so as to summon the fisher-
men iVoiii every part of the country on the first api>earaiice
I't'tlie iish iit any new point. The best time for the herring-
llslieiy is from January to March, and in 18()(>, 2(»0,000
liarrels, or more than one-fourth of the total catch, were
lauiiht between February 11 and II.
At the nortlu'i'ii extremity of tlie province of Nordland,
I'etween (58'' and ()!)^N. lat., are situated the Lofoten Islands,
or Vestt'raah'u Oerne. wliich are separated from the mainhmd
lt\ tJie Vestfjord. This broad arm of the sea is remarkable
lii'tji for its violent currents and whirlpools, anions' Avhich the
Malstrom has attained a workl-wide celebrity, and also from
its lieino" the most northerly limit where the oyster has been
feiind. But it is chiefly as the resort of the cod that the
\<sttjord is of the liii;'hest importance, not only to Nordland,
but to the whole of Norway. No less than (!,0(M) lx)ats from
all parts of tlie coast, manned probably by more than half of the
whole adult male population of Nordland. annually assemble
ill Vaage, on the island of Ost Vaay(>o, and besides these, more
I«i
llfi
TilK rol.All WUIJI-D.
tluni 800 3'a:'C<i'ts, or l!ir«j,-er fisliinu;' sloops, from Berji^eii, Cliris-
tiaiisiiiul, iiiul Moldo, iip[)ear iij>()ii tlio seciie. Tlio banks of
Newfoiuidland hardly occupy more liauds tliaii the iishiii;^-
gromuls of tlie Ve.sttjdrd, which, after the hipse of a thousand
years, c(»ntinue as prolific as ever ',^' nor is there an instance
known of its having" ever disappointed the tisliernuin's ho[»rs.
In Harold llaarfagr's times, Vaag'o was already rtmowned
i'or its tisheries, and several varls had settled in this northeiu
distfict, to reaj) the rich harvest of the seas. At a later
period, under the reij^n of Saint Olavo (1020), the ainuial
parliament of Nordland was held at Vaa^e, and, in 1 120, the
benevolent Kint;' J'^ystein, brother of Sij^'urd the Crusader,
caused a church to be erected here in honour of his saintly
predecessor, aloni>' Avith a lunnber of huts, to serve as a
shelier to the poor lishermen, a deed which he himself prized
nnnv hii^hly than all his chivalrous brother's Avarlike exploits
^n the East, for " these nien,' said he, ' will still remember in
disiant limes that a. Kin;;- Eysteiu once lived in Norway.'
The reason why the lish never cease visiting' this part of
the coast is. that the Lofoten Isles <'nclose, as it were, ;iii
iidand or niediterraneaii sea, Avhich only comnmnicates Avith
the ocean by several narroAv channels between the islands,
and Avhere the lish liud the necessary protection ajj;'aiiist
stormy Aveather. They assemble on three or four baidvs well
known to the fishermen, seldom arriving* before the middle
of January, and randy later than towards the end of Februavy.
They reniain in the sheltered fjord no long-cr than is neces-
sary for spaAvning', and in A})ril have all retired to thedeejicr
waters, so that the Avhole of the fishino- season does not last
longvr than a couple of months. The fish are either caught
by hooks an<l lines, or nioi'e frequently in larg'e nets about
twenty fathoms long- and seven or eigdit feet broad, buoyed
Avith pieces of light wood, and lested Avith stones, so as to
intiintain a vertical position Avhen let down in the Avali'r.
Tlie lish, swimming with impetuous speed, darts into the
meshes, Avhich effectually bar his retreat. The nets are
always spread in the evening and hauled up in the morning',
* Jii ISOG tliotnt;il (Mtcli of co.l was 21,(1(10.01)0, aliniit 12,000,000 of wliidl
wcro salti'd (rli|i-li>li I ami tlie n inaiiidtr ilricil (stook-fi.sh) ; pach fish making im
an avc'vaai^ 2 llis. of cliii-lisli ami oin'-fourlh Irs* of stock-flsli.
VICISSITL'DKS OF riSIIKRMKN.
ii;
t'ov IIS Imirr as it is diivlinlif, tlio fisli sees and av(>i<ls them,
rvcn at a <l<>|>tli of sixty or ei;4htv fatlioins. A siii«^l(' liaul ol"
Hie net fiv(|n('ntly tills half the boat, and the heavy iish would
undoubtedly tear the meshes if they were not immediately
struck with iron hooks, and flun<^- into the l)oat as soon as
they are dra<2;'f>'ed to tin? surface.
Clans Niels SliniuL^'ini, a merchant of lior<4'nnd, first intro-
duced the use of these nets in the year l()8o, an innovation
whiidi more than doubled the total produce of the iisheries.
But (as with all useful inventi<jns) loud coni[)laints were raised
an-iiiust him in Norway, and as late as 1702.no n<'ts wore
allowed at Drontheini 'to prevent tho ruin of the ['oor jM'ople
who had not the capital to provide themselves with them.'
The life of a tisherman is every where full of privations and
danj>vrs, but nowhere more so than at the Lofoten Islands.
Here, after toiling on the stormy sea for many liours. he has
]i(»thiii<4' 1)ut the miseral>le shelter of a dam[), filthy, over-
crowded hut, which affords him neither the rest nor the
warmth needed after his fatij>,-uinn- day's woi'k. liven the
ii'MU-tVamed sons of the North are freiinently unable to
ii sist such continuous hardships, and briii^;' home witli tliem
the seeds of contagion and death. Malii^'nant fevers have
i'iv(jaciitly decimated the population of N<»rway, and their
orig'in may generally be traced to the iishin;4--^rounds. ' The
Arab and the Pi'rsian,' says Leo])old von Ihudi, 'build cara-
vansaries tbr the wayfarers thron^'h the desert; the in-
habitants of the Alps have founded " hosjiices" on the summits
of the nuamtain passes; and the Norwegian has erectrd
honses of refuo'o on Dovrefeld, lait none for the iislierinen
Ol
liofdicii. Near Rodoe there is a hiv^e hi'S|>i(;il tor tlie
sick iifNtirdland ; Avould it not li
as w<
II t(» build houses in
linldtcii, so as not to crowd th(> h<isi)itals and churcliyai'ds ■;•> '
This was written at the I)ei4'inniiii4' of tln^ present century,
but th<' poor Jishermen are still as ne^'jected us evei-. (nr a.,
more recent traveller, IVrannier, beheld with pily the wretcjicd
huts in Avhich they spcuul three wintt-r months, far from
their fannlies.
In the channel between llvah"* and tlu! mainland lies, in
iVy l-V N. lat., the snnill island of Tromsi*, where alxuit fifty
years since oidy a few hsIuMMnen re.-^idi d. whose huls have
US
Till-: I'OLAi: WOHI-D.
^vadunlly expmidod into a, tlirivino- little town of about :"!,(►( H>
inliabitaiits, aloiio; the shore opposite the mainland. Its
staple exports are dried and salted cod, and train-oil. The
livers of the cod are put in ojjen barrels and placed in the
sun, and the melted portion which rises to the surface is
slcimmed oif, being the purest oil. The coarse refuse is
boiled in great iron pots by the side of the sea, and yields
the common ' train-oil.' The muscular matter which re-
mains is collected into barrels and exported as a powerful
manure ; some of it is sent to Eno-land.
The town consists mainly of one long straggling street.
following the Avindings of the shore, and has a picturesque
appearance from the har])our. The houses are all of wood
painted with lively colours, and the roofs mostly covered
with grass, diversified with bright clusters of yellow and
white flowers, look ]n-etty in summer.
Troms("'» has a Latin school, and even boasts of a news-
paper, the ' Tromsi) Tidende et Blad for Nordland og Fin-
marken ' (' The Tromsi* C4azette, a paper for Nordland and
Finmark '). This paper is published twice a week, and as
only one mail arrives at Tromso every thi'ee weeks, rlio
foreign news is given by instalments, spreading over six
successive numbers, until a fresh despatcli arrives.
The island of Tromsi* is beautifully situated, being on all
sides environed bv mountains, so that it seems to lie in the
* -
midst of a huge salt-lake. Its surffjce rises in gentle s1o]»ps
to a tolerable elevation, and no other Arctic isle contain--
richer pasturage, and dwarf plantatioiis of greater lux-
uriance. Man}' meadows are yellow Avith buttercups and
picturesque underwood, and the heathy hills are covevt'd
with shrubs, bearing bright berries of many hues.
The pride of the Tromsoites in their island and town, ;!n<l
their pi'ofound attachment to it, are remarkable. No 8\vis:^
can be more enthusiastically bound to his mountains and
vales, than they are to their circumscribed domain.
To the north of Tromso lies the broad and deep Altenfjortl.
whose borders are studded Avilh numerous dwellings, and
where the botanist meets Avitli a A'egetation that nuiv wiH
raise his astonishment in so high a latitude. Here tlu'
common birch-tree groAvs 1,45(1 feet, and the Vareinium unir-
i
.MOST X()UTIiKl{l-V .MINKS I.\ TliK \V(»1M,1).
119
jovtl.
mill
wrll
i
li'lhi.^ 2,(>:iO feet above llu' level of the sea; the dwarf biirh
[Irfida na))(i) still vei^vtatos at a lieiu'lit of 2,7 10 feet, and
llio Arctic -svillow is even foiiiid as liii^'li as :?,500 feet, np to
the limits of perennial snow.
Alten is moreover celebrated through its copper mines. A
piece of ore luivin<:C been fonnd by a Lap-\voman in the year
1>J'>, afcideiitally fell into the hands of Mr. Crowe, an
Eiir>'lish merchant in Hammerfest. This gentleman innne-
diiitely took measnres for obtainiie.;' a privilci^'e from r;"overn-
ment for the Avorkin^' of tlu^ mines, and all preliminaries
beiiio- arranged, set oft* for London, where he fonnded a
company, with a capital of 75,(>()()/. When Marmier visited
tlie Altenfjord in IS 12, more than 1,100 workmen wert^
employed in these hiot^t imrfln'r/;/ tiiiiiliKi n'orls of the world,
and not seldom more than ten Knj^'lish vessels at a time
wei'e busy unloading coals at Kaafjord for the smelting of
the ores. New eopper works had recently been opened on
ilie opposite side of the bay at Raipass — and siinM> tlnni the
( stablishment has considerably increased.
Ilannnerfest, the cajjital of Pinmark, situated on the west
.-ide of the island of Ilvali), in 70 :il>' 1 •'>", is the most tiortlieni
town in the world. Half a century since, it had but 44
inlialntanls ; at present its ])0]iulation amounts to 1,200. As
at Ti'omsi"). very many of Ilie houses, forming one long sti-eet
winding round the sliore, have grass sown on their roofs,
which gives the Litter the appearance of littl(> plots of
meadows. With us the expression, 'he sle<.'ps with grass
above his head" is equivalent to saying 'he is in his grave;'
hut here it may only mean that he sleeps beneath the verdant
roof of lii-; daily home. Many large warehouses are built on
piles projecting into the water, with landing quays before
them ; and numerous ranges of open sheds are filled with
reindeer skins, Avolf and bear skins, walrus tusks, reinde(>r
hoi-ns, train-oil and dried fish, ready for ex[)ortation. The
chief home traffic of Hammerfest consists in barter with the
ha}is, who exchange their reindeer skins forl^randy, tobacco,
liardwar(\ and cloth, i^ome enterprising merchants anini-
;illy fit out vessels for walrus and seal-hunting at Spitzbergen
;i!i(l Hear Island, but tht^ principal trade is with Archangel,
;nid is carried on entirely in ' lodjes ' or White Sea ships.
^
120
THE POLAR WOULD.
■with tlirco sino'lo iipvij^ht masts, eaeli lioisting* a lingo try-
sail. These vessels supply Hainnierfest with Russian v\v,
meal, candles, &e., and receive stock-fish and train-oil in
exehanf^e. Sometimes, also, an English ship arrives with a
su2)ply of coals.
The fishing grounds off the coast of Finn arlc, whoso pro-
duce forms the staple article of tlie merchants of Hammor-
fest, are scarcely inferior in importance to those of Lofoten,
the numberof cod taken here in 1860 amountingto 15,000,000.
A great part of the fish is purchased by the Kussians as
it comes out of the w'ater. Of the prepared cod, Spain takes
the largest quantity, as in 180-") upwards of 44,000,000 lbs.
of clip-fish (nearly the whole yield for the year) was consigned
to that country. Of the dried variety, 10,000,000 lbs. were
exported to the Mediterranean, and upwards of 4,000,000 lbs.
more to Ital}*. Sweden and Holland come next in order, the
supply in each case being over 5,000,000 lbs. Great Britain
takes scarcely any stock-fish, but ] ,500,000 lbs. of clip-fish, and
the large export to the AVest Indies is almost entirely com-
posed of the latter article.
The Avinter, though long and dark, has no terrors for tlio
jolly Hamuiort'esters, for all the traders and shopkee])ers
form a united aristocracy, and rarely a night ^>asses witli-
out a feast, a dance, and a driidcing bout. The day wlicii
the sun reappeai's is one of general rejoicing, the first who
sees the great luminary proclaims it with a loud voice, and
everybody rushes into the street to exchano-e conoTatulations
with his neighbours. The island of Hvalo has a most dreary
sterile aspect, and consideral)le masses of snow fill the
ravines, even in summer. The birch, however, is still found
growing 020 feet above the sea, but the fir has disappeared.
It may well be supposed that no stranger has ever sojonriud
in this interesting place, the furthest ouf[»ost of civilisation
towards the Pole, without visiting, or at least attempting to
visit, the far-famed North Cape, situated abont sixty mWo-i
from llammorfest, on the island of jMageri"*, where a few
Norwegians live in earthen huts, and still manage to reai a
few heads of cattle. The voyage to this nnignificent head-
land, wliich fronts the sea with a steej) rock wall nearly
a Inou^^and feet liigli. is frerjuently diiheult and precarious,
EXTREME NORTIIEHX I'OLNT OP LAND.
I-Jl
nor can it be seiiloJ witliont considcrablo latijinc ; but the
vit^v from the siiiniuit amply rewards the troiibh?, and it is
no small stitisfaetion to stand on the brink of the most
northern promontory of Europe.
'It is impossible,' says Mr. W. Hurton,^ ' adequately to
describe the emotion experienced by me as I stepped up to
the di/zy ver<i-e. I only knovv that I devoutl}' returned than':3
to the Almighty for thus permitting' me to realise one
darling dream of my boyhood. I}es]>ite the wind, "vvhich
hero blew violently and bitterly cold, I sat down, and
Avrapping my cloak around me, long contemplated the spec-
tacle of Nature in one of her subliuiest aspects. I was
truly alone.
' Not a living object was in sight ; beneath my feet was the
boundless expanse of ocean, Avith a sail or two on its bosom,
at an innnense distance ; above me was the canopy of heaven
ilecked Avitli fleecy cloudlets ; the sun was luridly gleaming
over a broad belt of blood-red mist ; the only sounds were
the whistling of the wandering winds and the occasional
plaintive scream of the hovering sea-fowl. The only living
creature which came near me was a bee, whirh hummed
merrily by. What did th<0)usy insect seek there 'P Not a
blade of grass grew, and the only vegetable matt(^r on this
point was a cluster of Avithered moss at the very edge of the
aui'pj precipice, and this I gathered, at considerable risk, as
a memorial of my visit.'
Vdj/iiij'- f/'uiii L'ith (o LapJaiul.
J.';. 'J O^iaty.
} !.i::'-J;i)'. lifi L'av, S|'ii/.i.cr;'ou
(HAFTER X.
SPITZHKROKN — BKAl? ISLAND — .TAX ME YEN.
The wost (Mcist (if S[iit/,li('i'jj;oii — Ascen.-ion f)f a ]\Ionnt.'iiii hy Or. Scorcsliy - ITi^
I'.xoiirsion aliiiiii- i!io Coasr— A straiult'd Whale - MagdalcMin li-i_v -^riiUitii(li''s o;'
Son-liinls — AiiimaiLilV' -^Iicliii:>lit SilcJir-c (ihiciirs — A (laiigoroiis Ni iyilil'unr-
Iiooil — IiitoriiPi- I'lalcaii -I'lofa i>f Sj-iitzlifvo-cn —Jis Siinilarily Willi tliat of tlip
Alps (ilidve !hf 8iiii\v-liiii'" -Ii'i'iiuli'cr Tlit' liypiTlMii'caii I'larniiixan l"isli(\-i —
Coal — Drit'twiidil - 'Dis.'ovcrv of Spilzlicrgcu by i'arciitz, Krcuiskork, and Kyp
— Iirilliaiit IVa-ioil i^'ilu' \\ lialr-ilsliiTy — t'offins— Eifilit^^Eiii^lish Sailors ^^ilH^l•
in SpitzbiTprrii, 103(1 -Molanohuly r)iath of snin(> DutcJi Vohintcors — Eus.sian
Hunters — Their Mode of Winterinir in Spitzliei'gen — Selinrostin— Walrus Ships
fi'om Ilainnu'i'fest and Troiiisci — Dear or ('liorio Island — l)eniu't-.-lMiortnoiH
Slaughter of Walruses — ^riUiness of its Ciiniate — ^fouut ^fisery — AdvenUiroii^
JJoal Voya^rf' of sunic Norwegian Sailors— .Ian 3Iey(ii — I'eeroidjerg.
ri^TIE arcliipolat»'o of Spitzbergmi consists of five lurp:"
i iKsliuuls : W(^st Spitzberg'ou, Xortli-East Laml, Staiis
Foreland, Barentz Land, Prince Cliarles Foreland ; and of a
vast nnniber of smaller ones, scattered around their coasts.
Its snrface is abont e(jaal to that of two-thirds of Scotland ;
its most southern jxtint {7C}° oO' "X. lat.) lies nearer to the
ISI.AXDS OK SPITZUKIMKN'.
153
Polo tlmn M(>]villo Isliuid; <iiul Ross Islet, at its nortlioini
fxlroiiiity (80° ID' N. lilt.), looks out upctn the unknown oooaii,
wliicli povlmps extends Avitliout interruption as far as tlie
Straits of Belirinsj;-.
Of all the Arctic countries that have hitherto been dis-
rovered, (Jrinnell Land and Washino-ton alone lie nearer to
tlio Pole ; but while these ice-blocked regions can onl}- be
reached with the utmost ditiicultv, the western and north-
western coasts of Spitzbero-en, exposed to the mild south-
westerly winds, and to the influence of the Gulf Stream, are
frequently visited, not only by walrus-hunters and Arctic
exjdorers, but by amateur travellers and sportsmen.
The eastern coasts are far less accessible, and in parts have
never yet been accvmitel}- exi)lored. As far as they are
knoAvn, they are not so bold and indented as the western
and north-western coasts, which, pritjectinu;' in mio-hty capes
or openiny- a passa^'e to deep fjords, have been o-uawed into
every variety of fantastic form by the corrodinjjf powder of
an eternal winter, and justifv, by their endless succession of
jan'pfed spikes and break-neck acclivities, the name of Spitz-
liero'on, which its first Dutch discoverers g'ave to this land of
' serrated peaks.'
The mountains on the w^est coast are very steep, many of
them hiaccessible, and most of them dang-erons to climb,
eillu'r from the smooth hard snow with wliich they are en-
crusted e^.'cn in summer, or from the looseness of the disin-
tof>Tiited stones which cover the parts denuded by the sun,
and j^'ive way under the sli;^;htest pressure of the foot.
More than one darini^* seaman has paid dearly for his
tenieritv in venturinji" to scale these treacherous hei<i'hts.
The supercaro-o, or owner of the very first Dutch whaler
that visited Spitzberg-en (1012), broke his neck in attempting:
to climb a steep mountain in Prince Charles Foreland, and
Barentz very n(>ar]y lost several of his men under similar
circumstances. Dr. Scoresby, wlio in the course of his
Avlialing' expeditions toucluHl at Spitzlicrgen no less than
seventeen tinu>s, Avas more successful in scaling" a mountain
■5,000 feet hig-li, near Mitre Cape, though the approach to the
sunnnit was b}- a ridg-e so narrow, that lu^ could only advance
l>y sitting- astride upon its edge. But the panorama which
1:>4
Tin: ruLAR would.
he bi'hcld, iiftin* liaviiifjf nttninod his (»l>joct, {nu]ily I'opiiiM
liiiu for the (hiii^vr and fati'^no of c*lainl)eriii<>' for sevrral
hours over loose stones, Avhieh at every step roliecl with
fearful rapidity into the abyss beneath.
' Theprospeet,' says the distin<j;'uished naturalist, ' was most
extensive and o-raiid. A iin(? sheltered bay Avas seen to the <'ast
of us; an arm of the same on the north-east: and the sea,
whose y;"lassy surface was unrutHed by a breeze, formed an im-
mense expansi' o7i the west ; the icebergs, rearin;^' their proud
ere?ts ahnost to the tops of the mountains between which
they were lod<4'ed, and defyin;^' the power of the scdar b(>ams,
were scattered in various directions about the sea-coast and in
the adjoining bays. Beds of snow and ice, fdling extensive
hollows and givino- an enamelled coat to adjoining valleys,
one of wdiich, commencing at the foot of the mountain whore
we stood, extended in a continued line towards the north, as
far as the eye could reach; mountain rising above mountain,
until by distance they dwindled into insignificance ; tlie
whole contrasted by a cloudless canopy of dc^epest azure, and
enlightened by the rays of a blazing sun, and the etfect
aided by a feeling of danger — seated, as we were, on the
pinnacle of a rock, almost surrounded by triMuendous pre-
cipices ; all united to constitute a pictm-e singularly sublime.
' Our descent we found really a very hazardous, and in
some instances a, painful undertaking. Every nu)vement
was a work t»f deliberation. Having by much care and
with some anxiety made good our (U'seent to the top of the
secondary hills, we took our way down one of the steepest
banks, and slid forward with great facility in a sitting
posture. Towards the foot of the hill, an ex]>anse of snow
stretched across the line of descent. This being loose and
soft, we entered ii]K")n it without fear, but on reaching the
middle of it, we came to a surface of solid ice, perhaps a
hundred yards across, over which we launched with astonish-
ing velocity, but happily escaped -without injury. The men,
whom we left below, viewed this latter movement with
astonishment and fear."
After this perilous descent, Scoresby continued his excur-
sion on the flat land next the sea, where he found scattered
here and there mnnv skulls and other bonos of sea-horses.
.Sl'OUIvSIJV S OlJSKUVATKt.SS.
\-2i
\vli;il('s, iiiirwals, Ibxcs ;iii<l sciils. T\v(» Kussiiin 1o(1l;-('S, fonncd
dl' lo^s <>t" ])iiH', wltli ii third in vuiiis, wen* tilso seen; ilic
tni'iiH r, tVniii a ((iiaiitity (»!' Ivcsli i*lii[»s abniil tlicm and oilier
;i(i[iraraiict'S, ;4'av<' cvid^'iicc of liaviii;^' been I'cct'iit ly iidiabiltMl.
'I'lii'sc Imts wcro built upon a ridi;'*' of slun;^]*', adjoinini^' the
sfii. Ainoiin" the boulders heaped U[>on the sh(»re, uuinerous
St a-l)irds bad built their nests or laid their t'l^j^s, wJiicli they
defended with loud cries and determined couraev a<!'aiMst
til." attacks «tf ^'ulls.
The only insert he perceived was a small <4'roen fly, but tin.'
water aloii;^' the coast was tilled with medusa} and shrimps.
Tlie strong' n(»rth-wost Avinds had covered tlie strand v/itli.
jaru'e liea])s of Fiicnti rcsinihisiiK and Ldmiiian'a sfirrlitiriini,
the same which the storms also cast ont upon our shores.
'I'lie view of this hiu'li northern life v.'as extremelv in-
tei't'stinii-, l)ut Dr. Scoresl)v Avas still further rewarded bv the
discovery oi' a, detul Avhale, fouivd strande<l on tin? beaidi,
wiiich, thoui^h much swollen and not a little putrid, proved
a prize worth at least |(M)/.
l!y a harpoon found in its l)ody, it appeared to have been
sii'Urk by sc>me of the lishers on the Kibe, and having"
esea]ie(l from them, it had proljably stranded itself (»n the
spot where it was found. When the iirst incision was made,
the oil <4-nshed forth like a fountain. It was a slow and
lahMrious work to trans[)ort the blubber to the ship, Avhich
I'll acconnt of the dan^'erons nature of the coast was obli^'ed
to remain two miles (»tt' at sea. After five boat-loads had
safely l)een br<)U<4'ht on board, the wind snddenly chan<4vd,
so that the ship was driven far out to sea, and the boat
reached it with ^reat ditticulty.
Uf the numerous fjords of »S])itzberyen, once the busy
resort of Avhole Heets of whalers, and now but randy visited
l>y man, none litis been more accurately described by modern
Arctic voyag'ers than the mayniticent harbour of AIaL;-dalena.
liay. Here the 'Dorothea' and the 'Trent' anchored in
I81>^, on their wav to the North Pole; here also the French
naturalists, who had been sent ont in the corvette ' La l?e-
cherche ' (18:).5-:{()) to explore the hiyh northern latitudes,
sojourned fcr several weeks.
The number of the sea-birds is trulv astonishing". On the
12G
TIIK I'OLAK WORLD.
11 !
letlj^os of a liii'li rock, iii tin.' head oi' ilie l)iiv, Hi-ocIicn
saw the little auks {Arcficd allc) extend in an uniiitcrniptctl
line full three miles in l(>n<^^th, and so ch)sely eony're<4'ate«l
that about thirty fell at a single shot. 11<,' estimated Ihcir
numbers at about 1,0()<>,0(M>. AVhen they took fli|4'ht they
darkened the air; and at the distance of four mih's thcii-
chorus could distinctly be heard.
On a line summer's day, the bcllowiny of the Avalruscs and
the hoarse bark of the seals are minj^led with the shrill notes cif
thoanks, divers, and gadls. Although all these tones i»roduce
a by jio means harmonions concert, yet they have a ^'leasing
etfect, as denoting" the hapi)y feeling's of so many creatures.
When the sunverg'es to the pole, every animal becomes mute,
and a silence broken only by the burstiug- of a glacier reig-ns
over the whole bay — a remarkable contrast to the tropical
reg'ions, where Nature enjoys her repose during* the noon-day
heat, and it is only after sunset that life awakens in the
forest and the Held.
Four g'laciers reach down this noble inlet : one, called the
Wag-g'on AVay, is 7,000 feet across at its terminal clilf, whicli
is oOO feet hig'h, presenting- a mag'uiticent wall of ice. But
the whole scene is constructed on so colossal a scale, that it
is only on a near approa<.'h, that the glaciers of JMag'daleuii
Bay appear in all their imposing" grandeur. In clear weather
the joint effect of the ice under the Avater, and the reflection of
the g"lacier wall above, causes a, remarkable optical delusion.
The water assumi's a milk-white colour, the seals appeal"
to g-ambol in a thick cream-like liquid, and the error oulv
becomes apparent when, on leaning" over the side of the boat,
the spectator looks doAvn into the transparent depth below.
It is extremely dangerous to approach these clitfs of ice.
as every now and then larg-e blocks detach themselves fntiii
the mass, and frequently even a concussion of the air is
enoug"li to make tliein fall.
During the busy period of Spit/bergen history, when its
bay used to be frequented by whalers who anchored luider
the g"lacier-walls, these ice-avalaiiches often had disastrous
consequences. Thus, in the year 1G11>, an Eng'lish ship was
driven by a storm into Bell »Sound. While it was passing
under a precipice of ice, a prodigious mass came thundering"
down upon it, broke the masts, and threw the ship so violently
ici: cLiri's A.VK avai,a.\( iii;s.
\-27
ii|M»u ciiic side, tliiit tlit> ca[)l,iiii iiiid |»iirt of llic crew were
swept into tlie st'ii. The captain t'sc'a[K'(l unlinrt, but two
sailors wi'iv killed and several others Avniinded.
t)ne day a ^nn was tired from a l)oat of tlie 'TrtMil,' wlien
about liall'a niilelVoiii one of tlie glaciers (»f Ma^^'daleiia [{ay.
liiiinediately after llio report of the musket, a noise resembling'
thunder Avas lieard in the dii-eetinn of tlie iee-strcam, and in
a few seconds more, an enormous mass detached itself from
its front, and fell into the sea. The men in the boat, snj>posiny
themselves to be beyond the reach of its intliU'iice, were tran-
([uilly contemi)latinLj;- the may-niiicent siyht, Avhen suddenly a
laru'e wave came sweeping- over the bay, and cast theii* little
shallop to a distance of nim^ty-six feet upon the beach.
Another time, when Franklin and Beechey had approached
one of these ice-walls, a hu^'e fraj^'ment suddenly slid from
its side, and fell Avith a crash into the sea. At (irst the
detached mass entirely disappeared under tlie waters, castin^j;'
\\\> ch>uds of spray, but soon after it shot up a^ain at least
]<•(» feet above the surface, and then k(>[»t rocking- several
minutes to and fro. When at len^^th the tumult subsided,
the block was found to measure no less than l.o(H»feetin
circmnference ; it projected GO feet above the water, and its
weii^'ht was calculated at more than 1<»0,0(»0 tons.
Besides the f;'laciers of Ma^^'dalena Buy, Spitzberi^cn has
many others that protrude their crystal walls down to the
water's edffe ; and vet but few iceberg's, and tlie larn'cst not
t(t be Compared with the jn\>ductions of Baffin's Bay, are
drifted from the shores of Sititzbero-en into the open sea.
The reason is that the glaciers usually terminate where the
sea is shallow, so that no very lar^-e mass if dislod^•ed can float
away, and they are at the same time so frequently dismem-
bered by heavy swells, that they cannot aitain any^'reat size.
The interior of Spit/l)ergvn has never l)een explored.
According' to tlie Swedish natvwa lists,"''" who clindted many
* Within tile la>t tV'W j'pai'.s. iiulcss tlian tlnvo soiciitifu' i'X]i('iliii(iiis liavclc-cii Hen*-
out ti) Spitzlii.|'j;cn at t!u' cxii.nsc dftlio Swrdisli liDXcrniiicnt. T)nrini;' the siiiniin'i
iif IS.'iK, ."Messrs. Otto Tuix'll, (JiU'iinci'sti'ill, and Xdrdcn-kjuld visin d llic western
irts nt' tlic archiixlaL'o. In lS(il t
ill Nortli-Hast [<and
Chyiloniiis, &c., and i
ll' \v
li.d
I' coasi
from Ice Sound to I)<ivo ISax
\va>-
'iirat.'lv invi'sti'a
t,'(l
i,v
:si
ossrs.
Tori'll, ^lalniixrc'i
IHOl Mc'SM's. N(n'din.->kiold. Duncr, and ^lalnicrcn visited
ihe sontliei-n sliores and Wide Jan's Water. A fourth exj'edit
I'ort of (loihcnlairf: Mnne 1S(;S>.
ion lia«
just left th.'
1-js
TIIK I'OLAK W'MM.I).
(if till' lii^'lit'st iiKHintiiiiis ill various piirla oftlio mast, all
llu' ot'iitral rcj^ioiis of tlic arcliiiiclai^^o I'orm a level icc-
platcaii, iiitcrniptt'tl ciilv licr<' and tlici'c by driiutltMl mcks,
|»n»j"('tiii<^'' likf islands iVoni the crystal sea in which Ihcy
arc imheddcd. The hei;4lit (d'this j>latean aliove the level of
the ocean is in ^^-eiiiTal IVcini K-'iOd to li, (»(!() feet, and from
its frozen solitudes descend (he various «^laciers ubove de-
itcribed. Durin^^ the suniuier months, the radiation of the
sun af Spit/bei'i^-eii is always very intense, the therinonieter
in some sheltered situati(»ns not Si'hhnn rising* at noon lo
(12", (57^, or even T-T. Kveu at miduie^ht, at the vei-y jieak
of the hiyii mountain ascended by Scoresliy, t h(! power of
the sun produced a temperature several de^-rees above thi'
frec/,iii;jf point, and oecasioniMl tlu' discharge of streams of
■water irom the snow-cap[)ed siimmit. llenc<\ though even
in the three warmest months tlie temperature of S[»it/bere'eii
does not avera;i^e more than -MV, yet in the more southern
}is[KH'ts, and particularly wliei'e the warmth of the sun is
absorbed ami radiated by blacdc rock-walls, the mountains arc
not seldom bai'cd at an elevation nearly e(]ual to that of the
snow-line of Norway, and various Alpine [)lants and <^Tas?;es
frequently flourish, nt)t only in sheltered ; ituations at the
foot of the hills, but even to a considerable hei^^lit, wherever
the disintegrated rocks kxlye and forni a tolerably y-ood
soil.
The Flora of Spit/J)er<^en consists of about ninet^'-tlireo
species of llowerin^' or iiheno<>'amous i>lants, "which fifenerally
gTOw in isolated trdts or patches ; but the intisses which
carpet the moist lowlands, and the still more hardy lichci
which invest the rocks with their thin crusts or s<nn
far as the last limits of veq;etation, are much more nniiic ■>.
»Some of the plants of Spit/ber<4'en are also found on ili"
Alps, beyond the snoAV-line, at elevations of from U,()(.iO to
1(),(K)0 feet above the level of the sea. According* to Mr.
Martins, nothing" can give a better idea of Spitsbergen than
the vast circus of lu'cc, in the centre of which rises tiu'
triangular rock known to the visitors of Ohamouny as tli(!
Jardin or the Courtil. Let the tonrist, placed on this
spot at a time when the snn rises but little above the
horizon, or better still, Avhen wreaths of mist hang over the
n.ni{.\ .\.M> r.M'NA OK si'n7,iii;i{(ii;.\.
lii)
to
4r.
liiiii
ill."
ilu'
his
til."
the
iiriij'hhoui'iii'^ iiioiiiit;iiiis, JaiifV Ihr si':i Itiit liiiiy tlw foot ttl'
th»' ;iiii|ihi<h(';itiT o!" which ht" tii'(Mi|iit's the ci'iitrt". mid h" hiix
ii niiiijilrfc S[ii(/l)i'i'^'Oii |>r<>s|M'ct hct'ort' him. Sup|M>siii<4' him
to 111' ;i hot:iiiis(, the siy'lit of the h'n innirnl ii.< ijliK 'ml i!<.
< 'i I". "I ill III III i>iii II III
I'l till I'll
I lii'lhir'i, iiinl lli-'iiii'i'iHi iniijlni'"x.
will >till t'lirfhiT iii('r("iisi' the illnsi(»ii.
'riir I'lilv csciilclit pliUlt < f S)iit/.l>ri'o-(.u is the Citcliliii fin
hiirslruhi, which here litsis its iicrit! priiiciph's, tind cim )••'
c;i1('ii lis ii. Siiliid. 'J'hc ^Tiisscs which l\»'illi;iu IoUimI ;;Tt)\viii;4-
iic;ir some Hiissiiiii huts in Stuns Koi-cliiiid, iir<' diiriii;j,' the
siiiiiiiici' ;i })rcci<Mis resource tor the reindeer, which, thon^'h
extieiiielv shy, imiKc their •.i[»pt'iirim('(> from time to time
III evei'v |>;il't of the huid IVoiii the Hevcii Isliinds t(» South
•ted.
( .i|ie. ;iti(l lire more ii IxiIKliillt t h;m could hilVC UOt.'U t!X[)i'(
The Pohir heiirs iii'c |»rol);ihlv their only iiiitivc cueuiics
ishinds, iind their lloctucss furnishes tliem with
III tl
lese
illll|'le Uie;iiis ol esnipe Iroiii ii ]»ul'SUer So elunisv on
land.
lior<l ^Nruln'rave's ci'ew killed lifty deer (»n Voe-elsaiie-, a
noted huntiiie- plac(", and on Sir Kilward l^arry's polar
diti
Ji
cxjieiiition aixMit s<"veuty (iet"r were sJiot lu ireureuhero- j)ay
liy ine.\|ieTieuced doei'-stalkers, and witlujut the ai«l of (htu's.
huiiiiL;- the winter these larj^-e hei-hivora livi' on tlie Icelandic
moss wliich they sceut under the snow, hut it uiay wtdl he
a-ked where thev tind .shelter in a nalce<l wilderness with<»nt
a Miii^'lt" tree
fu Ml
IV and JiiiK
th
lev are so thin as sciireelv
to bo eatable, hut in Julv tliey hi.'i'-iii to <>'et fat, and then
their tlesli woidd everywhere be reckoned a delieacv.
-i(
les the reind("er, the only land-c[nadrupeds of S[>it/-
■cn are the l*olar bear, the Arctic fox, and a small
-mouse, which in sununer has a mottled, and in winter
a >\ line fill'.
Of the birds, tlie hyperborean Ptannij^-an i Lntinjiii.-^ Iii/jii^r-
'""•"''), wdiii-h easily procures its food under the snow,
nndoubtrdl winters in Spit/.berjj;-("n, and probably also (he
lesser red-i . which perhaps firds o-rass seeds onoueh for
Its subsi ;ee during- the lono- polar nii^'hts, Avhile the
>UK\\ bunti , [I'll cti-OjilKi lien vivdlia), and the twenty species
el water-fo.J and waders that frecpient the shores of tlie
liiu'h northern archipelan"o durino- the summer, all mi^^rate
^-oiithwards when the lono- summer's day \ero-es to its end.
K
l.U)
THE I'UI.AR WOULD.
l! ;
Until very latolj, the Spitzberf,'en watei's were sup^'osod
to be poor in fishes, thonyh the nnmerons finbacks, whicli
towards tlie end of sniinner freqnentthe sonthern and soiitli-
western coasts, and, nnlike the hir<^-e sniootli-back whales,
chieily live (»n herrings, as Avell as the troops of salmon-
loving Avhite dolphin seen abont the estuaries of the rivers,
snfliciently proved the contrary, not to mention the herds (if
seals, and the hosts of ichthyophagous sea-birds that breed
on every rock}^ ledge of the archipelago. Phi})ps and
Scoresby mention only three or four species of fishes occur-
ring in the seas of Spitsbergen, while the Swedish naturalist
Mahngren, the first who seems to have paid real attention to
this interesting branch of zo )logy, C(dlected no less than
twenty-three species in 18(31 and 180 1. The northern shark
{Sciinunis microcophidnH) is so abundant that of late its
fishery has proved highly remunerative. The first ship,
M'hich Avas fitted out f()r this purpose in ]8()-J by Hilbert
Pettersen, of Tromso, returned from Bell and Ice Sounds witli
a full cargo of sharks' livers, and in 18().) the same enter-
prising merchant sent out no less than five shark-shiits to
Spitzbergen. The cod, the common herring, the shell-tisli,
the halibut have likewise been caught in the Avaters of
the archi[»elago, and there is every reason to belicA'e th;it
their fisherv, Avhich has hitherto be(m entii-elv nesflected,
might be pursued Avith great success.
The mineral riches of Spitzbergen are, of course, but littlo
knoAvn. Coal of an excellent quality, Avhich might easily l)e
Avorked, as it nearly crops out on the surface at a short
distance from the sea, has, hoAA'CA-er, been discoA^ered lately by
Mr. IJlomstrand in King's Bay, and similar strata exist in
A'arious parts of Bell Sound and Ice Sound. Large quantities
of drift Avood, prolsably from the large Siberian rivers, aro
deposited by the currents, particularly on the north coasts
of North "c]ast Land, and on the sonthern coasts of Staiis
Fore Land. In English Bay, Lord Dufferin saw innumerabl'
logs of unlKMvn timber, mingled Avith Avhich lay pieces of
broken spars, an oai", a boat's flagstaff, and a few shattt ivd
fragments of some long lost A'ossel's planking.
Most probably the N(»rAvegians had their attention directeil
at a very early period to the existence of a land lying to
I:ARI.Y HISTOKV of SIMTZliKKCKX,
lai
ily 1)0
sliovt
■lyby
;t in
[titles
■diists
Stalls
•(Mil''
tpi- to
tlio north of Fiiiinarkei: by the troops of mim-rntorv hivds
Avliich they saw riviny" iiortlnvar<ls in wprin^-, ami l)y the
casual visits of sea-boars, which the drift-ice carried to the
south. There can bo no donbt that tliey were the tirst
discoverers of Spitzberyen, bnt their historv contains no
positive records of the i'act, and it was not beft>ro the six-
iccntli century tliat Europe tirst bocanio acquainted with
Unit desolate archii)ela<^'o. Sir Ilu<;h Wi]lou<4-hby may
)iossilily liave soon it in lo.jJ), but it is certain that on
,luti(.' Il>. IV.Mj, Barontz, Hoeniskerke, and Hyp, "who liad
s;iiled in two ships from Amsterdam to disccjver the north-
ej'.stcrn passaj^o to India, landed on its western coast, and
Liave it tlie name it bears to the present day. in the year
1(>07 it was visited by the nnfoi'tunato Henry Hudson, and
lour years later the hrst Eni>-lish whalers wore tittcd out b}--
the Russia Company in London to tish in the bays of
Siiitzber^'en or East ({roenland, as it was at that time called,
bciuo- snpposed to be the eastern prolono-ation of that
vast island. Here our countrvmen met with Dutchmen,
X(irwe<>'ians, and Biscavans from Bavonne and the ports of
nortliei'ii Spain, and commercial rivalry soon led to the
usual (piarrels. In the year 1()l:i, James I. y-ranted the
liu<«-ia Company a patent, g'ivin<^ them the exclusive ri^'ht
to tisli in the Spitzber^'on waters, and seven ships of war
wi'i'c sent out to enforce their pretensions. The Dutch,
the Xiir\vco-ians, and the Biscavans were driven away; a
cross with the name of the Kiny- of Enoland was erected on
till' slutro, and Spitzber;i4'en received the name of ' Kino-
.lames liis Nowhmd.' This triunijih, howeviM-, was but of
short duration, and after a strug-g-lo, in whicli none of the
coHibataiits gained any decisive advantage, all parties came
at last to an amicable agreement. The English received for
their share the best stations on the southwostern coast,
aioiiLi" with English Bay and Magdalena- Bay. Tlu> Dutch
Were oblig(^d to retreat to the north, and chose Amsterdam
Ishtnd, with 8meerenlierg Bay, as the seat of their operations.
The Danes or Norwt^gians established their headquarters on
I'aiie\ Island; the Jlaml^urgors, -vvlu* also came in for their
^hare. ill Hamburg Bay; and the French or liiscayans on
thi' north coast, in Red Bay. A\ present a right or smooth-
I
1.12
TlfR I'OLAU WOULD.
baclcod whale nirely shows itself in the Spitzljer<;-eii waters,
but at that time it was so abundant that Ireipiently no less
than forty whalers used to anchor in a sin^-le bay, and send
out their boats to Icill these cetaceans, who came there for
the purpose of castinL>- their youn<»' in the sheltered fritlis
and channels. The fat of the captui'ed Avhales was im-
mediately boiled in larj^-e kettles on the shore, and the bavs
of Spit/ber<4'en presented a most animated spectacle duriu'^'
the summer season.
Numerous coffins — an underg-round biu'ial being' impossible
in this frost-hardened earth- — still bear Avitness to those
busy times, and also to the grrax nioi'tality among the
fishermen, caused doubtless by their intemperate hal)ils.
They are particularly abundant at Smeerenberg, wheiv
Admiral Beechey saw upwards of <>n(^ thousand of thciii :
hoards with English inscriptions were erected over a few,
but the greater nundjer were Dutch, and had been deposited
in the eigliteenth century. Some cotHns having been opened,
the corpses were found in a stat(» of perfect preservation.
and even the Avoollen caps andstochingsof the mariners, ulid
might perhaps have rested for more than a century o/^ tlii>-
cold earth, were still apparently as new as if they had l»eeii
])ut recently put on.
In the seventeenth century, the Knglish and the Dutrli
made several attempts to establish pei'inanent settlements in
iSpitzbergtnu The Russia CS>mpany tried to engage vohui-
teers by the promis(> of a liberal pay, and as none came for-
ward, a free pardon was offered to criminals who woidd
undertalce to winter in Bell Sound. A few wretches, tired nt
coidinement, accepted the proposal, but when the fleet wns
about to depart, and they saw the gloomy hills, and fMt
the howling north-eastern g-ales, their hearts failed tliem.
and they entreated the captain who had (diarge of tliom \>>
take them ba<dc to London ami let them be hanu-ed. 'riiiii'
recpiest to be taken back was complied with, but the coni|i;iiiv
generously intei'cede*! for them, and <d)tained their pardon.
Some time after, in tin; year ld:|»>, an i'higlis'' wliaKi
lauded eight men in liell Sound to hunt roinde<'r. Tliev I'l-
mained on shore during tlio iiiglit, but meaiiwliile a stoi'in
l.iad arisen, and ini the roljowinu' niominu' tlieir sjiji
n;i'
.VTTK.MiTi:i> si;ttij;.mi:.nts o.v si'itzukuokn.
1.1. -5
tfl's. «
lrs>
'1 \v;l>
.1 tMt
ti'in t"
Tlirir
npiiiy
•(l(tn.
vli.iK'i'
t'V IV-
stiTlll
1,11.1
ssil)K'
X till'
III bits,
wlliiv
:lu'i»i :
I few.
ositc'l
[HMli'il.
•;iti"ii. ^
S, wild
t:
I
r
Viiiiislifd (»iif (if sii^lit. H WHS towiinls tlu' ciul oi' Auo-nst,
;iiiil flicy liiul uo lidite ol' resent' at tliis iKlvtinced pei'itxl of
till' \ViiV.
Tlieir (lesuiiir mav b*;* iiuau'im'd, but thcv soon recovered
their (:'(»nrii:^'e, iiiul wisely tlotennined to iiiake preparations
t'nv tiie inipendini^' Avinter, instea<l of losing- time in nseless
laiiieiitations. Their tirst care was t<> lay in a stock of food,
;iii(l ill a short time they had killed nineteen reindeer and
lour Ijcars. Fortunately they found in Bell Sound the neces-
sary materials for the erection of a hut. A lar;4'e shed iifty
feet loni>- and thirty-ei^dit broad, had been built as a workshop
tor the men of the liussia Company, and they very judiciously
cr.iistructed their small hut of stones and thick planks within
this enclosed space. Th<'y thns y-ained a better protection
,iL:ainst the icy wind and room for exercise durinj^- stormy
weatiiei", one (»f the best preservatives a*>'ainst the scurvy.
They made their beds and winter dresses of the skins of
the aninnils they had killed, sewin<^' them to^^vther Avith
needles made of bone sjdlnters and usin<4' disentangled rope
iiids as thread.
Their hut was ready by .Septend)t'r 12, and t(» i)reserve their
<ai>|»ly of meat as loui; as possible, they lived four days of the
week on the otfal of whales' lat which lay scattered about in
-reat plenty. From October lM; to j»\'bruary Jo, they saw no
-WW. and from the l-'lth to the olst of December n(» twili-jht.
'I'he new year bepin with excessive cold ; every piece of metal
they touched stuck to their tin^'ers like lilue, and their skin
hciame blistered when exposed to tlieair. The reaitjiearance
"f the sun was as a resurrection from death. T'o increase
tli' ii" joy, they saw two bears on the ice, one of which they
killed, liut they found, what has since been fretpiently ex})e-
i'i''iice(l !»y others, that the liver of the animal has poisonous
i|iialities. itv is at least yrry unwholesome, for, aftei- eat in^- it,
ilicv were all attacked \vith a kind of eruptive ft'ver, and their
'.i'l [iceled otf. Towards the middle of March, their ])ro-
-. 'lis weiv well ni;4'h exhausted, but tln^ [tolarl)ears appear-
iiiu' more IVe(inently reiilenishcd their stock. SooJi also the
iiiiu"rat"i'y birds arri\cd from the south, the foxes crept out of
tlieir liurrows, and many wci-e caught in traps. On June .■),
the ici' lico'an to break up. and on the loljowiii:^' ni<a iiiie^' one-
■M
THE roLAK WOKI.K.
II I
liiilf of the biiy was open. A <jfale forced tlieni to seek tJie
shelter of their hnt. There seated round the fire, they spoki^
of their approiiehinn- delivery, when suddenly a loud halloo
was heard. They immediately rushed out into the open air,
and hardly believed their eyesi^-ht, for they were <4Teeted l)y
their comrades of the previous summer, and saw their own
Avell-lcnown ship at anchor in the bay. Thus were these
brave-hearted men rescued after a ten months' exile in tli(,'
latitude of 77°.
The itossibility of winteriu'*' iu Spitzbei'gen havin<^' thus
been proved, some volunteers belonjj,iny,* to the Dutch ileet
Avere induced by certain emoluments to attempt the same
ejiterprise on Amsterdam Island ; but, less fortunate than
their predecessors, they all fell victims to the scurvy. A
diary which they left behind recorded the touchin<j;' history
of their sntt'erino-s. ' Four of us,' these were its last words,
' are still alive, stretched out flat upon the floor, and mi<4lit
still be able to eat if one of us had but the stren<>-th to rise
and fetch some food and fuel, but we are all so wealc, and
every movement is so painful, that we are incapable of stir-
ring-. We constantly x»i'ay to God soon to release us fnnii
our suffering's, and truly we cannot live much longer without
food and warmth. None of us is able to help the others,
and each must bear his burthen as well as he can.'
f^ince that time both the English and the Dutch liav(^
g'iven up the idea of forming* pennanent settlements iu
Spitzberg-en, but scarcely a year passes that some Russians
and Norwegians do not winter iji that high northei-n hnid.
As far back as the seventeentli century, the former used to
send out their clumsy but strc i,^"ly built ' lodjes ' of from
CO to 100 tons from the jiorts of Archangel, Mesen, Onega,
Kola, and other places bordering the White Sea, to chase the
various animals of S]»itzbergen, the rei»ideer, the seal, the
bfduga, but chiefly the Avalrus, the most valuable of all.
These vessels leave home in July, or as soon as the navigation
of the White Sea opens, and as the shortness of the season
hardlv allows tlnun to return in the same year, they i»ass the
winter in some sheltered bay. Their first care on landing is
to erect a large cross on the shore, a ceremony they repeat on
lea\ing. and such is fhoir religious faith that under the pro-
b'ction of that holv s\ iiibnl thov nioclc all tlu^ te^Toi's of tlio
iiLNTixci ix ,srrrzni:R(ii:x,
I
Aretii" -winter. Nour tlio place where tlieir vessels are laid
II]). they build a lar^'e lint from twenty to twenty-five leet
s(juar(', which is nsed as a station and nia^-azine ; bnt the huts
used by the men who <^'o in quest ol* skins, and which are
cfccted at distances of from ten to fifty versts alon<>' the shore,
iirc only seven or ei^lit feet square. The smaller huts are
usually occnjned by two or three men, who take care to pro-
vi<lt' themselves from the storehouse with the necessary pro-
visions for the winter. Scoresby visited several of these
lulls, some constriicted of loys, others of deal two in(dies
in thickness. They are of the same kind as those used by
llic peasants in liussia, and, being taken out in pieces, are
erected ^^ith but little trouble in the most convenient situa-
lioH. The stoves are built with bricks, or with clay found in
llie country. Diu-in^- the stay of the hunters, they emi)loy
themselves in kiHin;Li; seals or walruses in the water, and bears,
iox<'S, deer, or whatever else they meet with on land. Each
slii[) is furni:^hed with provisions for eii^hteen nK>nths, con-
sisting- of rye flour for bread, oatmeal, barley-meal, peas, salt
Ijeef, salt cod, and salt halibut, together with curdled milk,
hniiey, and linseed oil; besides which they enjoy the flesh
of the animals which they kill. Their drink consists chiefly of
7"".x', a national beverage made from rye flour and water ; malt
or s[ii!ituous li(piors being entirely forbidden to prevent
(Ivunkeimess, as, when they were allowed it, they drank so
iiii moderately that their Avork was often altogether neglected.
Their fuel for the most part is brought with them from llussia,
ami drift wood is used for the same puri)ose.
The hunters, seldom travelling far in wiiitei", make their
short excursions on foot on snow-skates, and draw their food
afler them on hand sledges. Not seldom they are overtaken
hy ieri'ilic snowstorms, Aviiieh force them to throw Uiemselves
Hat uiiou the ground, and sometinu's even cost them their
lives. Tluur b(>st preservation against the scurvy is bodily
exercise; they also use the Corhli'uria fnicxlratn, which grows
wild ill the country, either eating it without any preparation,
or drinking the liquor prepared i'voin it by infusion in water.
^ cl. ill spite of all their precautions, they often fall a prey to
lliis terrible scourge. In the year 1771, Mr. Steward, of
Whithy, landed in King's Bay to gather drift wood, and found
;i I'ussian hut. After having vaiulv called for admittance.
I :$()
TIIK I'ol.AK WOKIJ).
thvy t>pci)(.'d it, and toinid a corpsu strctt'licd (»ul on the
o-rouiid, its luco covered with j^reen mould. Most likely the
iinfortuiiate man, luiviiiL;' buried all liis comrades, liad as the
last survivor found jio one to ijerformthe same kind office I'oi-
himself, (leuerally the Russian hunte]\s, after speudiiijj;' tlie
winter in Spitzberm'en, retiirn home in the followino- Au<^'ust on
Septembex'; but their stay is often prolonged durino- several
years; and Scharostin, a, venerable Russian, who died in 182(;
in Ice Sound, is deservedly remarkable for having- sj>ent no
less than thirty-two Avinters of his lonij,' life in that hioh
northern land, where lie once remaini'd during,' lifteen con-
secutive years. Surely this man ou^'lit to iiave beencrowneil
kino- of Spilzbero'en —
Oil :i I liiDiic (if l'.ll•k^, in a I'libr dl' cIdUiI,-,
Wil h ,1 iliaili'iii 111' Miow I
Every year, at the beoinnino- of summer, about a do/en
vessels leave the ports of Jiaunnerfest and Tromso for Spitz-
bero'fii. Formerly it was a very comnion thin^' for them tn
procure three cargoes of walrus and seals in a season, and less
than two full car<!^oes was considered very bad luck indeed ;
now, however, it is a rare thin^- to yvt more than one caryo
in a season, and many vessels return home after four months'
absence only half full. Y(?t, in spite of this diminution, tlie
mimbers of walruses still existing' in that country an.' very
considerable, particularly on the northern banks and skerries,
which ai'e only accessible in open seasons, (^r perhaps once in
every thri'e or four summers, and where consequently tlu^
persecuted aiumals o-et a little breathing- time to bre(^<l and
vepltMiish their numbers.
AI)ont midway between Hammerfest and Spitzbei^'en lies
Bear Island, ori<>'inallv discoveivd bv Barent/ on June i), l.jiXI.
Seven years later, Stephen Bennet. a shipmaster in the service
of the Muscovy Company, while on a voya^-f of discovery in ;i
north-easterly direction, likewise saw Bear Island c»n Auy-usr
1(1. lo-norant of its previous discovery by Barentz, hi' cal!"d
it Cherie Island, after Sir Francis Oherie, a member of tlic
c(»mpaiiy, and to this day both names are used.
Bennet foiuid some walruses on its desert shores, and
returned in the followiuo- year with a Vfsstd fitted out by a
merchant of the name of Welden, to wa^c war with thcsi'
I
i
St 'a
nt
tli;
I I'tH
lill
Si (II
|.n.
Wl'l
tlh'
e\t'
rlJMATK (tr niOAIi ISLAM).
1.S7
II'S,
IIHil
li'il
ill.'
S(';i-iii(nist('i's. His lirst opcnitiuiis were not very siu'ccssl'iil.
(H";i licrd (tt'iit Iciist ii thuiisiind walvvises, lie IvHUmI no more
tliiiii tlftt'eii, iiii<l a liitor iittuek iqxm iin cquallv oiioniious
ti'<i(>|) raised tlie entire nuiidjer of liis viclinisto no more tluiii
tit'ty. Their tusks ak»ne were brou^-ht aAvay, and alont;" witli
suiiie loose ones coUected on tlie beaeli formed the chief
[imdiico of the expedition. At first the unwieMy creatures
were fired at, but as the bidk'ts made no ^-reat impression on
their tiiick hides, o-ra])e siiot was now disehar«4'ed into their
eyes, and tlie blinded animals were tinally killed with axes.
In tlie followhi*:;- year, Welden himself proceeded to Bear
Island, and the art of \valrus-killin<^- j^-radually improvin*:;- by
pi-actice, this second expedition proved far more protitable
tlian the hrst. Care had also been taken to provide larLie
ki'ltles and the necessary fuel to boil their fat on the spot,
so that l»esides the tusks a quantity of oil was "gained. In
I (KM), Ik'unet ai;-ain appeared on the field of action, and the
dexterity of the walrus-huuters had now become so great
that in less than six hours they killed mon> than 700, which
yielded twenty-two tons (»f oil. During the following voyage,
Welden, who seonsto have acted in partnership with Bennet,
I'ach taking his turn, kilh'd no less than 1,000 walruses in
seven hours. Thus Bear Island proved a mine of Avealth to
these enterprising men, and though the walruses are not
now so abundant as in the good old times, yet they are still
suitieiently numerous to attract the attention of specidators.
Every year several expeditions proceed to its shores from
the Russian and Norwegian ports, and genei'ally some men
|i!iss til" winter in huts erected on its Jiorthern and south
eastern coasts.
Considering its high northern latitude of 7-^ , the climate
of Bear Island is uncommonly mild. Accordijig to the reports
ot* some Norwegian walrus-huuters, who remained there from
1S21 to 1S2(), the cold was so moderate during the lirst
winter that, until the middle of Novendier, the snow which
It'll in the night melted during the daytime, it raiiu'd at
Christmas, and seventy walrusi'S were killed during Christmas
week by the light of the moon and that of the Aurora.
I.ven in h'ebruary the weather was so mild that the men
were able to work in the oj»en air under the same latitude as
.Melville Island, where niercurv is a solid bod\ dnriiiL;- li\'e
l.JS
TllK POLAR WORLD.
I' I
I
!
I' '
I'
Ij
li
Dionths oftlu- year. The cold did not becoiiie iiitoiiso licloro
Miireli, and attained its niaxiinnni in April, when the sea
froze fast round the island, and the whit(! bears appeared
"whicdi had been absent diirin<^' the whole winter. The seecnid
winter was more severe than the first, biit even then the sea
remained open till the middle of Novend)er — evidently in
(•onseqnen(,*e of the prevailin<| sonth-westerly winds. The
greater part of Bear Island is a desolate plateau raised about
100 or 200 feet above the sea. Along' its western shores
rises a jj^rmp of thrc«> mountains, supposed to be about 200
feet hig'li, and towards the south it terminates in a solitary
hill to which the tirst discoverers •^•avethe appropriate name
of Mount Misery. At the northern foot of this terrace-
shaped elevation, the plateau is considerably depressed, and
forms a kind of oasis, where f>Tass {l\>a 2)ratcHsif<), enlivened
with violet eardamines and white polyo-onnms and saxifra<4"as,
<>'rows to half a yard in heig'ht. The general character of the
small island is, however, a monotony of stone and morass,
with here and there a patch of snow, while the coasts have
been worn by the action of the waves into a variety of fan-
tastic shapes, bordered in some parts by a flat narrow strand,
the favorite resort of the walrus, and in others aft'ording'
convenient breeding-pluces to liosts of sea-birds. In Coal
Bay, four parallel seams of coal, about equidistant from each
other, are visible on the vertical rock walls, but they are too
thin to be of any practical use.
Bear Island has no harbours, and is consequently a rather
dangerous place to visit. During the first expedition sent
out from Hammerfest, it hai)pened that some of the men
who had been landed were abandoned by their ship, which
was to have cruised along the coast, while they were hunting
on shore. But the current, the wind, and a dense fog so
confused the ignorant captain that, leaving them to their
fate, he at once returned to Hammerfest. When the men
became aware of their dreadful situation, they determined to
leave the island in their boat, and taking with them a quantity
of young walrus llesli, they luckily reached Northkyn after
a vovage of eight davs. It seems almost incredible that
these same people immediately after revisited Bear Island in
the same shij), and were agai}i obliged to return to N(»r\viiy
in th<» same boat. Th«^ ship had iinchored in the open bay of
I
hi
TlIK ISLAM* or .lA.V MKVKX.
l;if>
Xorth Kiivcii, iin<l hiivin<r tulcoii in its eni'fij'o, oon.sistiiio- of
ISO wiilnises, which had all hcon killed in a few days, was
iiI)out to leave when a storm arose which oast it ashore, and
hroke it to pieces. The Russians had bnilt some huts in the
neiuhliourhood. and the i>rt>visions mi^ht prohably have been
savi'd, but rather than winter in the island the crew resolved
to venture honu' a<,'ain in the boat. This was so snnill that
one-half of them were oblij^-od to lie down on the bottom
while the others rowed ; the antumn was already far ad-
vanced, and they enconntered so sava^'e a storm, tluit an
En^'lish ship they fell in with at the North Cape vaiidy
endeavoured to take them on board. After a ten days'
voyaj^'e, however, they safely arrived at Maf;'en'», thus provin<^
the truth of the old saylno- that " Fortune favours the bold."
The distance from Bear Island to North Cape is about sixty
nautical miles.
In a straight line between Spitzberf^en and Iceland lies
Jan Meyen, Avhich, exposed to the cold Creenland current,
almost perpetually veiled with mists, and surrounded by
drift ice, wouhl scarcely ever be disturl)ed in its dreary
solitude but for the numerous walrus and seal herds that
fre([uent its shores. The ice-bears and the wild sea birds
are its only inhal)itants ; once some Dutchmen attempted to
Avinter there, but the scurvy SAvept them all away. Its most
remarkable features are the volcano Eskand the huge moun-
tain Beerenborg-, towering- to the height of 0,870 feet, with
seven enormous glaciers sweeping- down its sides into the sea.
lat
in
ay
of
w
!«
The Plaiir.igan.
Hi
:&^:
Abaiidoi.c ! Vnssei o;i ai, Arctic Shoig.
x;-2
CHAPTER XI.
N \' A "S' A /, !•: M T. ^' A .
Tlio Sc;i ()t']\a:'a — liUM'likiii Ito.-iiiv >-.lii\v l.iilkn — K'l'otow I'aclii n>.S'i\v — SaiU
along llio l''Mst('ru ("(lasl dl' the Soiulicrn Islaml t" MatnM'likiii Si'liar-- 1 li-
Scc'iiiiil \'(iya!j;(' ainl I)calli .Milrni'oloii-ii'al Olisci-vat inii^ nf /iwnllca Tlif CuM
SniniiM r nl' Nnvava /liiilva \'ii!i liacr's sricni it'u' N'oyaizc In \>i\iiya /ciiilya
— His A'lviiiliii'i"- ill .Malnsrlikiii Srliar Sturm in l\nstiii Sciiar— Sea ISalli ainI
\'iili\i' ('|■lls^ --IJulaiiical Olix'i'vat inn-- — A natural (iai'dm — Si)litii(li' and Silciin'
A I'lirl-IIa/aar II iint iiig Ivxiu'dil inns nt' tlir Iviissiaiis In Ninaya /cinlya.
^PlIE soil of Kani, l)f)uii(l('(l on tlic west by IS^wayii Zt'iulyji.
L iMid on tlic I'ast by tlu> vast peninsula of Tajninrland, is
olio of the most inhospitable ])arts of tlio inhospitable Polar
( )('oan. For ail the ice which tho oast -westerly marine currents
drift »lurin<i: tho suiMdm^- aloii;^' tho Siberian coasts accnmu-
latos in that immense land-h)ckod bay, and almost constant Iv
bloclvs the ^"ato of Kara, as the straits have boi'U named that
separate Novaya Zendya from the island of Wai<4"at/.
The rivers Jenissei and ()l)i. which remain fro/on over
until late ill June, lih(>\vise discliarLi'e their \'ast masses of ice
>:el
^i4&5
^
-/•
■^..
lllll
V
l1
; ,,^N^ ^^%mi3^m -^Wi^/f
Allelic llllill Mt INIAIN.
i;\iM,(ti;\Ti<».\ t>i' i'.\( iiTissow
i-u
iiitiitlit' "^iilr <'t" K';il'ii, S(i lliiii \vt' ciiiiiol \\i iiilti' Ili;i1 llir
(•lislcni cniist ol' .\u\.iy;i Zriiil \ .1 . tVi iiit i i|m' u st'ii w liicll ()|i|M»St's
iiliimsf iiisii|>ci'iil)li' iiltstacli's \n tin' Arctic iiii\ in'iitor, Ims i-c-
iiiiiiiH'il ;iliii(>sl l<it;illv iiiiKiiowii until I s:|:;. wliilc t lie wcslcni
coast , ('.\|)usf(l to tlic(!iiir SfrciDii, ami liatlicd. in simnncr
at least, l>_v a vast (>|h>ii ocean, lias loii"; iieen ti'a<'eil in all its
cliirf oiil lines on t he iiiaii.
Tlie walfiis-huntei' Losclikiii is indeed said to have saih'd
ahaiL:' the whole eastern coast of \ova_\a Zenilva in the last
ccnturv. hilt we lia\(' no authentic records of his voyn^^v,
ami at a latei' period I'osnivsslow, who. peiiet rat Iii^" throuyli
Ma1hew"s Straits, <ir Maloschkiu Sclnir, found Xovavii Zenilya
to consist of two lar^'e islands, investie'aled hut a small ynvi
of those uidviiown shores. I'roin ISp.Mo 1,S2I, th<' Russian
lidvernnieiit sent out uo less thiiu livi^ ex])editioiis to the
sea of K'ara ; the fainotis circuuinavi^ator Admiral Liitke
emleavoured no less tliau four times! lo advinuH' a1on|4' tlio
eayteru foast of Noviiyn Zemlya, but all these eii'orts ]tr(>vod
fruitless against the suinn-ior powov of a storuiy iiud ice-
hlockeil s(^a. Yot in spite of these repoatcd failures, two eii-
lerjivisinn" men l\loki>w. a chief inspector of foiwsts, and
I'.raiidi, a rich mei'chant of Ai'diaiipd - iitted out three
ships in ]><'-\'l for the ])in'pose of solvini;' the mysteries of
the sea of jvara.
One of thest." vess('ls, commanded hy Lieutenant Krotow,
was to penetrate throneh ]Ma.the\v\s Straits, and, liavine-
leached tlieir eastern outlet, to sail thence across the sea, to
the mouth of the Ohi and the Jenisscu ; hut notliin^" more Avas
lieanl of the ill-lated ship after its first separati<(n from its
t Ki
N(
com[ianions at ivanm iNos.
The second ship, wliich was to sail aloii^' the western
Coast of NoNaya Zemlya, and, if possiMe, to round its n(»rthern
extremity, was more fortunate, for thouoh it never reached
that point, it returned home Avith a rich (.-ar^o of walrus-teeth.
The third ship, finally, under Pachtiissow's c(>nunand, was
to penetrate throu^•h the yate of Kaia, and from thence to
[»roceed alono- the eastern coast. When Pachtussow, accordiuLC
lo his instructions, had I'eadied the straits, all liis efforts to
effect a passau'e proved ineii'ectiial. It was in vain he more
tluiii oiH-t' steered to ilif i-ast. f!u' storiin. weather ami lar^'e
142
TIIK I'ULAIi WUltlJ).
inassos oi' drift ic' coiistaiitly threw him Lade, tlio short
sumnu'r iipproached its end, and thus ho was obli^'nl to put
oft* all fnrtlKM- att(Mn))ts to tho next year, iii)d to settle for th<>
winter ill lloeky Bay within the y-ate of Kara. A small hut
was built out of the drift-wood found on the S])<»t, and joined
b}' lueans of a <4-allery of sail-eh>th to a bathino'-rooin, that
indispensable eonifort of a Kussiau. The laying' of traps in
whieh many Arctic foxes Averc cauj^-ht, and the carryinj^- of
the wood, which had sonietini(>s to be fetched from a distance
of ten versts, occupied the crew duriuf^ fair weather. In
April, a i)arty under Pachtussow's command set out for the
pur])ose of ex})lorin;j^ the western coast. On this expedition
they were overtaken on the twentA-fovu'th day of the month
by a terrible snow storm, Avhich oldiiivd them to throw them-
selves Hat u[> Ml the Ljroinid, to ;i dd bein^- swept aAvay 1)y the
wind. They remained three days without food under the
snow, as it was im])OSsibh' for them to reach the depot of pro-
visions buried a few versts (»tf.
On June 2J', the pite of Kara was at leno'th (>p(>n, and
Pachtussow would i^dadly have sailed throun'h the passao-e,
but his ship was fast in the ice. He therefore resolved, in
order to make the best use of his time, to examine the eastern
coast in a boat, and reached in this manner the small
8aAvina River, Avhere he found a, Avorxlen cross Avith the ihite
of 17 1-2. Most likely it had been pla<'ed there by Loschkin,
his predecessor on the path of discovery. H<' now returned
with his boat to the ship, Avhicdi, after an ini]n'isonment of
2'.*7 days, Avas at leni^th, July 11, abh^ to leave the bay.
On Stadolski Isliind, near C^ipt^ Menschikolf, they found a
wretched hut. Avhicdj ])roved tliat thev Avere not the lirst to
penetrate into these deserts. But the hut Avas tenanfless,
and a nund)er oi' human bones Avere strcAvn over t)ie (around.
One of Pachtussow's companions now related that in \X2'2 a
Hamojede, named Mawei. had <^one Avithhis Avifeand childn-n
to Novaya Zeiulya. and had never returned. On ^^-atherinn"
the bones, they Avere found to eonipose the skeletons ttf two
childriMi and of a woman. l)ut no remains could be discov(n"ed
of the num. Most likely the unforluiiate sa\au'e had b.'eii
sui'prised by a snoAV storjn. or Jiad fallen a ]»rev to a hunj^Ty
ic(>-bear, on oui' of his excursions, and his familv, deprive^
of tlieii' !>np|ioi'i. had died of huuLi-er in Ihe jiut.
NOVAVA Zi:.\ll,VA.
143
111
'I'll
il.TO
:iii.
K.'n
(iT
\r.
111(1
IV n
Mu'j;
w
•t'll
Ili'vv
ivca
I
OiiJiilv l!>, tlu'V n';iclH>il llii' river (Staw'urMi, and on tlio
21st Liltke's Bay, ^vliorc a nuiiiltcrol' wliito dolphins and seals
(.I* an uiilcnnwn s[>i'ci('s were t'ouiid. Hcrt* coiitrarv winds
iirrcstt'd the proLi'ress dt' tlic navi^'ators durin;^" ci^'litccn
(lavs. < )ii Au^'ust 1;'), Pachtuss(t\v ciiltTi'd Matosclikin Scliar,
iiiid reached its wi'slcrn mouth <>n the IKtli, 'J'lms he siie-
(•(■(•di'd at least in eircuninavii;'atiii<4" the southern island,
which no one luid achieved hefore him, and as his exhausted
jirevisious did not allow him to spend a second winter in
Nn\aya Zendya, lie resolved to return at once to Archauj^'el.
liiit contrary winds drove him to the island of Kol^'ujew,
II nd i hence to the month of the Petsehora, Avhere, on Sep-
tenil'ei' ■■). a dreadful storm at len^'th shattered his crazy
vessel. l"he crew I'onnd refu^-e in ft hut, hut this also was
1il!e(l hy tlie wat(n- ; so that they had to wade several versts
hefore they could reach the dry land.
I'achtussow now travelled by way of Archangel and Oiu^p-a
to 8t. Petershur^-h, Avhere he communicated the r«.'sults of
his journey to the minister of marine, who ij-ave liini a nu»t
iiatterin«>' reception, well merited hy his aViility and conray'e.
The success he had already ol)tained enconraf^'cd the hope
that a second ex[)edition would he ahle to conii)lele tiie
uiitlei'talviuf*". and conse((Ui'ntly. hy an imperial onh'r. the
S'hooner Krotow and a ti'ans|iort ;\.'i'('
died f
li{1''d out, with w hirh
itu
sson' oi
nee more sailed from ihii' port of Archani^el on
Aiii^Mist -'). His instructions av(M-<' to Avinter in INIalhew's
Straits, and theiiee to attempi in tin.' followin;4- summer lht»
cxploi'ation oT (he eastern C(»ast of the UMi-tliern island. Tlie
winter hul he built at the western enliaiice of the straits
wa-: rt'ady for his reception by (October 2(1. It was of stately
liiniensions for a No\'aya Zenilya resldouce, 2') feet Ion;/,
'1\ broad. S feet hi^'h in the c -ntre. '> at the sides: a)id
coiisi.sti'd of I wo eonijtartments. one (or the oi1i<'crs and the
otl
ler
tor
the
crew,
Thev found the cold vei\ eiulurable
hut were ratlier inconnnode<l b\' the snicdsc. uhiidi <lid not
d
iiwavs tmd a ready i»assa<>'e tiiroui''
th
rh th
o])i'nin;,' in 1 he roi.l',
SuiiH't iiiies the snov; accumulated in sue!
I Ilia
^scs, or fh<
stuiMu ra^ed so i'uri»uisly round the hut, that tin'v could iiol:
li'a\i' it for eiyht days runninti', s'.nd (V«'((Uenlly the hole lit
tlie niof had to serve tlKun for a <i
( II 1)'
KL'Vi-)i white br>ars wcr(> l;i!lis! ah^'Ut th>' !iiii <I
mm
\i
TlIK l'(>[.AI! WOKi-D.
wiiilcv ; one (»ii tin roof, jiiiothcr in ilic pii^sti^'c. l*iicli-
t iis.sow, svcll awiiic ill, it (>c(nijtiiti()ii is tli('l»cSL ft'iiiclv ;iL;':iiiisi
in('liiiiclii»ly, kf|tt liis rrcw in coustanl ;icli\itv. 'V\\rY wen'
(tblii'cd 1() Irtrli Avodd from (lislnuct's of ten or ('li'\rn vci'sls.
nol seldom diii'in',;' ii cold of — -Xi", wliicli, (li;ii:1-:s 1o their
tlnrlv f^r-dresse^, tlx'V I)or(» I'ennirkabiy well, |>iiri ienlarly as
a fen)[iirat lU'e lower than — :2-")' never oeeurri^d. nnless diirin^
pcrreellv calm Aveatlier. Hi' also niadi- tlieni lay ftx lra[»s ai
coiisidi'raltle dislauces from ilii- lint, ami aninsed tln'iii witli
sliootiii;^' at a mark and L;'ymnasiic exercis('S,
By tliis means lie succeeded in ]ireservinL;' their la'altli.
an<I wai'ilini^' off tlie attacks of the scurvy.
As early as A[»ril, the indclaiiL;'al>le Pachtu^.sow tittfd oii;
t wo siedo'e-parties, lor the exploraticm of the eastern coast.
'riie one, ('(Misistiu:^" of seven men, he rommamli'd in |iei's(p|i:
the either was led by the steersman Ziwolka. IJoth parties
travelled in company as far as the ea>tei-ii enti-anre {>{' the
straits, wliere one of the liuts in wliicli Rosmysslmv had wiii-
tere<l seveidy years since Avas still fiuiid in a u'('od ci inditioii.
I'achtussow now returned for the puT'pose df accural. U
surxeyiuLi" the straits, wliilt' Ziw(»lka 2>i'< '<"<'' '*^'''l alono- the
east coast, with a small lent and provisions for a month.
All Ids men liad Sanutjede dresses, hut they wei'e alreadv so
hardened that they did not wi'ar the upper coat Avith tlie
hood even diu'inu' the ni;^'lit, {ilthoun'h snow storms not ■-ii'ldoni
occurred. Once their IxMvts were frozen so h;ir(l that thev
could not ]>ull them otf hefore thoy had heen provionslv
thawed, an<l as drift-wood was nowhere to he found, tliey
Avere obliLi'iMl to hurn the [)oU's of their tent, and to keep
their feet over the firi', until the leather became soft. On
.May IS. the thirty-foniih (Iay of Ins journey. Ziwolka re
turncMl to his commaiahr ai'tei- haviii;_:' e.\|iloi'ed the ( ast
coast northwariks to a distance of i-")!! Ncrsts.
]\[eauw]iile PachtussoAV liad been busy building- a heal
ei^vhteen feet louii', with whi 'h he intended to proceed aJeiiu'
the western coast, to the uortliorn e.\t remity of the ishiiid.
and. the elements pei'mit i Iul;'. to return to tln' straits aloii^-
its eastiM'u shores. About tlu' bev'inniiiL;' of June, the iiii-
;L;'rator\ birds m.ide their a ["pcarance, and iiitroduce(l a. M'vy
a'^'reealile elian'_;e in tho iiioiii ifi iih ms fiiv of (he ea viLl'atois.
a au
I
i.
I
1
t;
1
tha
I
AviXTi'.uixn IX xovAVA /,i:>n,v.\.
1-1.5
wild, a iVw woolvS later, I'lijoyod tlic siu'lit of ItlnoiiiiiM.!' ilowri's,
ii:i(l u'iitlicrt'd aiitiscorlnilic licrhs in Iai'L;'(.' (juaiit ilics.
Tims till' lii^'li uortlicrii hind had a.ssuiii(.'(i its most IVicndly
asjM'ct, and looked as cdiccrfnlly as it [tossihly could, when
July 11. Pachtiissow and Ziwolka set out for the north,
til the hoat and the transport; the schooner hein^' left
l)i'hind ill the straits with the sure-con and a tew invalids.
At lirst the wind and weather favoured their couise, but on
.inly l:1, the boat Avas smashed between two pieces of ice, so
that they I id hardly time to escape upon the laud with tl
iiU
\\\
iC
nautical instruments, a sack of Hour and s(une butter.
Ill this unpleasant sitiialioit, they were obli^-ed to remain
for thirteen days, until at last a walrus hunter appeared,
wlin took' the shipwrecked explorers on board, and broiii^'ht
I'.iciii safely back to their winter-cpiarters (u> Au;4ust 22.
The-' Uiis lirst att(unpt ended in e(unplete disjippoiutmeut,
till ' t' ' o(^ason wa^ alr<'ady too far advanced to }>ermit of its
ivjicwal. Vet Paclitussow, resolving- with praiseworthy /.eal
Id n
lake the most of the last davs of the short summer.
se
out a^'aiu on Au,L;'Ust 2(5, tor the eastei-n eutranee of tl
10
straits, and ]iroce('iled aloii^" the coast, until he was stojijied
liv the ice, at some distance lievoiid the small islands wliicli
lioat
hud,
" 1 1 l;'
III-
;er\
i)i'ar Ills name
Couviiiced of the fruitlessness of all furth<'r etl'orts, Paeli-
tussow bade adieu Avith a sorrowful heart tf) the coast, which
still stret(died out before him in undiscov<'red mystery, and
sailed back a|>'aLn to Ai-chani^'el on Se[)tember 2n. Soon after
liis i-eturn, he fell ill, and four
iVieiids carried him to his ^•l■ave.
weeliS
lat(
er his uiuuruiim
The Arctic Ocean is so capricious that in the foUowiiej,-
\ car 1 he \\a
iMis-hunter Issakow, oi* l\ciii.
w 1 1 o
ail no I
lis-
ciivcnes ill view, was a
ble 1
o roiiiiij without dilljciiltv tilt
eartiil ot
uni'th-casteni extremity of Novaya Zeinlya, l)iit t
ciicduiiterin^' the dan^'ers of that dreadful <'oast. he ;iimost.
iiiiiiicdiately returned.
During- the two winters he sjieiit in Xovaya Zenilya. the
siccvsiiian Ziwolka had daily coii,-.ulli'd the tliennometer, and
tlic result of his observations !4M\e to the western entrance
Mi
new s
St
rait
s a mean aiiiiiia i teiiiperat tire o
f + 1
Tim- N'o\a\a Zeuilva is colder than th
west coast of
140
Till-: I'Ul-AJl AVOUIJ).
Spit/,borp:ori, wlii«'li, nUlioiiL;]) still fnvtlior to tlio nortli, is more
favoumbly sitiiiiird wi'li rcu'iir-l to Hh' wimls :ni(l fiirveuts.
iind from five t(» icii (Icn'rcfs -waiMiicr tliiiu llic liiu'li noi'tht.'Vii
piirts of Siberia and coutiiicntal Aiiicvica, which sustain a
('oin])arativ('ly iiuiiieroiis population, Avhilc Novaya Zonilya is
uninhabited. IlencL' this want and the circumstance thai
the ve<4'etation of tliese islands scarcely rises a span above
tlie ^Tound, while the forest re|.>'ion still jienetrates far within
the confines of the colder continental rei^-ions above men-
tioned, are to be ascribed not to the low mean annua!
temperatni'e of Novaya Zendya, bnt to the nnfavonrable
distribntiitn (A' warmth over the varions seasons of the a ear.
For althonyh hi^-h northern Sib ia and America- have a _/'"/•
colli'}' Avintei', they t-'ujoy a nnisiilfinhli/ ininuer sunnner, an<l
this it is which in the hiL>'her latitndes determines the exist-
ence or the development of life on the dry land. During-
the winter, the organic Avorld is ])artlv sheltered nnder the
snow, or else it miy-rates, or it prodnces within itself suf-
ficient warmth to defy the cobl — and thus a few de^'recs
more ov less at that time of the year are of no luatei'ial
conseqnence, while the warmth of summer is absolutely in-
dispensable to awaken life and determine its development.
The comparatively milil ir infer of Novaya, Zendya (no less
than thirtv-three df^^Tees warmer than that of Jakutsk) is
therefore of but littli' IxMK'fit to v<'n-('i;il)|,. lite, which (»n llie
other hand sutfers considersibly from a summer iid'erior even
to that of Melville Island and Boothia, Felix. A coast where
the snn, in spite of a day of several months'' continuauti',
^•enerates so snudl a ([uantily oi' heat, ami where yet soiiu'
ve«>'eta,tion is able to lloarish, must necessarilv be well worthy
the attention of botanists, or rather of all those who take
an interest in the <i-eoo'ra])hir;d distribution of plants. I'or
if in the primitive forests of Brazil the naturalist admin's
the etlects of a, tro[>ical sun and an excessive humidity ia
j)roducinn" tla; utmost exuberance of vi'iVet ati(»n, it is no less
interesting,' for hiiu to obser\e how l-'h>iii under the iiiest
adverse circumstances still waj^-es a succcHsful war ay,'ainst
death and dest met ion.
Thus a, few years attei" I*ai litussow's expedition, the desiiv
to explore a land so /eiuarKaMe in a l><ilaiii<'al [loint of view.
f
MK
II
taJ
el
>^e||i,r.
n.<>i;\ '»!' XOV.WA ZKMI.VA.
147
y tli-
ni.
k) is
1 llir
(.'Vrii
-mill'
llU'lllV
tuki'
VnV
iiii't's
tv ill
.'l.'ss
tlK'St
iiitisl
lli'-iri
\ ii'W.
;iii(l lit t;'atli('i' now tVuits for science in the wilderness, indiK-ed
lleri- von Baer, tliou;4'li ulr(Mdy iidsanced in years, to nndei-
take the jonrney to Nova\'a Zeinlva.
Accon)[)aniod l)y two yonnL^Tiuituvalists, Mr. Lehniann and
Mr. Jii'»ih'r, the cel'jljvated Petersbiirii" acaih-niiciaii ai-rived
(.11 .July 2i», Js;;7, at the w(.'stern entrance of Matlu'w's Straits,
saii<il throu^-h tlieni the next (hiy in a boat and reached
t]ie sea of Kara, where lie admired a ]irodi;^ions inniilier oi'
ji'jly-fishe.s [Plcunihrdcliiii jiUnis) swimming' alioiit in the
ice-c(»]<l waters, and disphiyin;L^' a niarvellons Ijeae.iy of cmIoiii--
iiii-' in tlieir (dliated ribs. This excursion niii>'ht, ho\ve\er, iia\e
had very disan'reeablo consequences, for a dreadful stnrni,
lilowiiiL;- from the Avest, prevented their boat from i-etvu'nin^",
.d forced them to ])ass the uiLi'lit with some walrus- hunters,
whom tliey had the <4dod fortune in meet with.
( )ii the followin<^' day, the storm abated, so that the return
could lie attem}»ted ; they were, however, oblic;'ed to land on
a small island in the Belun'a liay, where, wet to the skin,
and their lind>s shaking.'" with cold, they fortunately Ibiind
a refuii'e in the ruins of a Iuil in wlTudi Rosmysslow had
wintered in I 7(>7.
i\[eaiiwhile the wind had \eeret? lu the east, accompanied
hy a very disajiTOoable cold rain, whi(di ou the niouidains
look' the foria of snow ; they were now, how;'ver, aide to make
use of their sail, and arrived late at :ii<^'ht at the S]h)1 where
tlieir ship lay at amdior, completely wet, but in ^Mod health
;ind s[)irits.
" Wo could esteem ourselvt^s hap[)y,'' says Von Tlaei',-'' 'in
ImviiiLi' paid ^f^ slio'ht .; penalty f(»r nenleetin^' tin.' })recautloii,
>e necessary to all travellers in Novaya Zemlya, <»f providinu'
i''>y a week when you set out for a day's excursion.'
< )ii Auj^-ust t, after a th<)rou;4'h botanical examination of
llie s'raits, the p;irty proci'oded ah'iiL;' the west coast. The
wind, 'llowin^• from the north, brou'^ht them to the Ivostin
^cliiir, a nia/.e of |teissa<res between aunieroiis isl
els, wliere
'lie walnis-huntei-s in Xovaya Zendya chiefly assendde.
( )n .\ul;'U-: :», an excursidii ^• as made iij) the I'iver Xe(di-
In 1
1 In- 1ll>l nirl l\r .1
ll.l
iiti I'tiUiiiuji ii.'-iMiiii I.! Ill- I'liii'iuy 111
111.; n>-//.
i-,i,i;
'//• SI. P, /,,:•'/>■
..%Uhl"
148
TIIK r01>AU WOIU.D,
Avatowii, Avlu'vo thoy restLHl in ii Init wliidi liad been
crecttHl by some fishornian oiiii»l<)yo(l in ('iitchin;^' ' •^•olzi/ oi*
Arctic saliiKiii. On ivturnino- to the sbip, a dreaJful storm
iir()S(» iVoni the norlh-east, Avhich lasted nine days, and, very
iortunately for the botanists, caiiyht them in the Kostin
Schar, and not on the hiL>-h sea.
Ahhonj^'h they were anchored in a sheltered bay, the Avaves
frequently swept over the deck of their vessel, and compelled
them to remain all the time in their small low cabin. Only
once they made an attempt to land, but the wind was so
strono- that they conld hardly stand. Their situation Avas
rendered still more terrible and anxious, as part of ihe crew
which had been sent out hunting- before the storm be^an,
had not yet returned.
\\nien at last the storm ceased, Avinter secnved about to
be^'in in ^-ood earnest. Every ni<^'ht ice formed in th(> river,
and the land Avas coA^ered Avith snow, Avhicli had surprised the
scanty A'Cf^'etation in its fnll bloom. At len<ith the hunters
returned, after h ivinp," endured terrible hardships, and iiuav
preparations Avere made for a definitive departure.
A f>-eneral bath Avas taken, Avithout AA'hich no anchora^'e in
Novaya Zendya is CA'er lefl, and according- to ancient custom
a votive cross Avas likeAvise erected on the strand, as a meme-
riai of the expedition.
On AuLi'ii JS, the anehors Avere Avei^-iied, but they were
soon dr(>[»ped again in the 8char, to examine on a small
island the vejj^etable and animal prodncts of the land
and of the shore. The former ottrreil but few objeets of
interest, but they were astonished ;it the exuberance of
niai-iue life. After havini"- been dot:iine<l bv a thick f >u' in
this place for several days, they at len^'th sailed t(e,v;irds
the White Sea, Avhere they were oblio-ed Ity contrary Avinds
to run into Tri OstroAva. Dreary ami desolate as tlu'
tundras at this extreme point of La])land had apiMared In
them on their journey ontAvards, they wei-e now charmed with
their i^Tei-n slopes, a sii^'ht of which they had bcmi deprived
in Novaya Zendya.
(Ml SeptiMiibrr 11. they ;it len^'th reaidied the [lort et"
ArcliauLic!, wilh the aureciiMe |.ros|)ect of passim'; the
Avinlei' in a conifi>rl;iMe vrndv at St. I'ttt'vslnirn' instcnil "t
I
jn:sri;rs or vdn uakks .kjuunky.
uu
sjit'iuliny" it, likf liiirciit/, iind liis associiitt's, as iiii^'ht oasily
have lia[tp<'nt'<l, ill a wivtchud hut, beyond the 7<>th dt'^'ivo ctf
iKirtlicru latitude.
Having' thus l)ri<'ll_v slcotclu'd Yon Bacr's adventures, I will
now notice some ol' the most interestiiiL;' seieiitilie results ni'
his journey.
The roelcv west-coast of Novavti. Zendva has alxmt the
same ap[tearanee iis the analoii'ous jntrt (»!' S[)it/.l)er;_;fii, tor
lu're also the mouidains, particularly in the northern island,
rise ahi'uptly to a heii^'ht of three or four thoursand feot fioni
tlie sea, while the eastern ct»ast is ^'encrally ilat. \\\ hoth
lutries, annular hlocks of stone, precipitati'd from the
nimits, cover the sides of the hills, and frer(uently mahe it
i]iossi])le to ascend them. In lact, no rock, howevor laird
liiii'lv u'rainod, is ahle to withstnn<l the etl'ects of a
Cdl
su
III
or
climate where the summer is so wet and tlie winter so severe.
Xowliere in Xovaya Zenilya is a s^'rass-covered s]iot to l)e
tuuiid deserviin^ the name of a meadow. Even the iolia-
ci'Miis lichens, which ^-row so luxuriantly in La]»land, have
here a stunted ajipearance, but, as Yon Baer remarks, this is
owin^' less to the climate than to the nature of the soil, as
plants of this description thrive best on <dialky o-round. The
crustace(.)us lichens, however, cover the Idocks of ann'ito
and }tor]ihyry with a motley vesture, and tlu.' ding-y carpet
with wluch Ih-ijnx (triiqtdala invests here and thei'e the dry
shipes, formed ol rocky detritus, reminds one of the tundras
of Lai)land.
I'he scanty vej^'otable coverinn' Avhiidi this only truly social
plant of Xovaya Zemly a affords is, however, but an iiudi thick,
and can easily be deta(.*lied like a cap from th(' rock' beneath.
On a clayey L!;round in moist and low situations, the
mosses atVord a ]»rot(K-tion to the polar willow (Sully i>nl<irl><),
which raises l,>ut two leaves and a catkin over the surface of
its coverinji".
Kveii th(» most si)arino; sheet of humus has t^'reat ditliculty
to form in Xovava Zemlva, as in a m'eat
nnmber
.f th
plants which L;'row there the discoloured leai dries on the
stalk, and is then swept away by the winds, so that the land
Won
Id
i'Pl
tear s
till
more na
k.Ml
many plants, such a^ the
suow raiiuiuudus (H-m um iiln.^ ulniUs), wx'i'e lujt so extremely
l.-,()
Till; I'di.Ai; \V(»i{Li>.
iil»s1i'iiii(»iis lis lo n'(jiiii-(' iKi liiiiiius 111 nil, l»iit iiHTcIv ii rocky
ere vice *>)• si uip' loose ^'ruvcj ciijiiiltlc of rctiiinliiL;" moist i ire in
its niicTsI ices.
T)ut i'\ru ill Noviiya Zciiilvii tlicrc iirc soiui' more fiiv'oiirod
S]iol:s. 'riius when V'oii liiiei' liiuded at tlio foot of a IiIliIi
sliitc inoiiiiliiiii iVoiitiii^' the south-west, niid roljeetiiiy' the
nivs of till' sun. he wiis astonished and dehyhted to see a
^ay mixture of purple sileiios, ^'olden ranuneuhises, peaeh-
colnured [»ari yas, wliite cerastias, and hlue paleniones, and was
|>artieularly [tlensed at Hndiu^' the well-known ior^-et-me-
iiot amont^' the ornaments of this Aretie pasture. IJetweeii
tliese various llowcrs the soil was everywhere visihle, for the
dicotyledonous plants of tlie hi^-h latitudes j»'(Mluce no Jiiorc
I'olia^'e than is noeossary to set otf the colours of t lie hlossoms.
and have generally more flowers than leaves.
The entire vei^-etation of the island is c()nfined to the
su])erlicial layer of tlu^ soil and to the lower stratum of the
air. liven those plants which in warm climates have a de-
sceiidint^' <)r vertical root have hero a h<»ri/ontal one, and
none, wlielher <4rasses or shrubs, <^'row hi^'lu'r than a span
al'ove the L^'roiimh
In the polar willow, a sinj^'le pair of leaves sits on a stem
al)out as Ihiclc as a straw, althou^'h the whole ])lant forms
an extensive shrub with numerous ramiHcations. Another
species of willow {Sdh'.i' hinaiti) attains the ctmsiderable
iK'io-ht of a span, and is a perfect i^-iant anioni;- the Novayn
Zemlyau plants, for tlie thick subterranean trunk sometimes
measures two inches in diameter, and can be laid Ijare for a
len;4'th of ten or twelve feet witlnmt lindin<^- the end. Thus
in this country the forests are moiv in than idiorc the earth.
This horizontal development of ve^-etation is caused In
the sun principally heating- the superticial sheet of earth.
which imparts its warmth to the stratum of air immediately
above it, ;'ud thus confines the plaiits Avithin the narnw
limits wluch best suit their gTOwth. Hence also the iii-
iluenc(^ of position on veg'etation is so g'reat that, while ;i
plain open to I he winds is a complete desert, a i^'enlle moun-
tain slo[»e not seldom resembles a fj'arden.
The absence of ail trees or shrubs, or even of all \ iu-orous
lu'rban'e, impai'ts a cliaract<'r of the dee}iest s«»litude to ihc
I
KAKITV or INSISTS.
151
I
i
Noviiyii /t'liilviin hnulsc'iiiic, iiiul inspires cvoii the r()u<;li
siiilor A\ itli a Iciiid of religious iiwe. ' It is,' says Von Baer,
'as it' tlie (lawn oC creaiioii Lad l»iit just l»ei;iin, and liCo
were still to be called into existence.' The universal silenco
is hut rarely hrokeii hy the noise ofan animal. Ihit neither
the cry ofthe sea-mew, -wheelin'.;' in the air, nor the rust iin<^' of
the leiiiiuiTiL;" in tlio stnnted lierha^^c are a))h' to animate tlio
scene. Xo voice is heard in calm weather. The rare land-
l)irds are silent as well as the insects, which are comparatively
still fewer in number. T'his tran(iuillity of nature, particu-
hrly durin;^" serene days, i-emiuds the s]iectator of the (piiet
of the <j;Tave ; and the lei ii minims seem like i>hantonis as they
piide noiselessly from burr»»\v to burrow. In <»ur iields even
a sli;4'ht motion of the air becomes visible in the foliane of
the trees, or in the wavin^' of the corn; here the low plants
are so stitf and immovable that one nii;^ht suppose them to
l>e painted. The rar(» sand-bee {AiKlrena), which on sunny
(lays and in warm places flies about with lan^aiid wind's, has
scarcely the spirit to hum, and the Hies and f^-nats, thon<4'h
more frequent, are eipially feeble and inoftensive.
As a proof of the rarity of insects in Novaya Zendya,
Von Baer mentions that not ii single larva, was to be found
ill a dead walrus which had been laying- at least fourteen
ilays on the shore. The hackneyed phrase of our funeral
seruKtns cannot therefore be apjilied to these high latitudes,
where even above the earth the decay of Ijodies is extremely
slow.
Tfowever poor the vegetation of Novaya Zeinlya. may be,
it still suffices to nourish a munber of lemmings, which live
I'll leaves, stems, and buds, but not on roots. The slo})es of
ilie mountains are often irndermined in all directions by
tlicir liurrows. Xext to these lemmings, the Arctic foxes are
tlie most mnnerous quadrupeds, as they tind |>lenty of food
i'l til'' above-mentioned little rodents, as well as in the young
liirds, and in the bodies of the marine animals which are
cast ashore by the tides. AVhite bears are scarcely ever seen
during the summer, and the reindeer seems to have de-
creased in ninnbers, at least on the west coast, Avluu'e they
live fre(|uently shot by the E,ussian m<n'se-hunt(M-s.
Til" h(»sts of sea-birds in some parts of the coast ])rove
l;V->
Tin: i'(ti,.\u \voi{!,i).
Til
tli;it ilic w iitiTS iii'c far imn't' |ir(>lilic tliaii flic laml. i lie
t'uwlisli Li'iiillciiiot s (I'riii Iritilt), closdv fon^rci^Mlrd in rows,
OIK.' iilxtvc the other, on tlic Uiiri'ow Icdi^'cs of vertical roclc-
wjills, make the lilack stoiir a]>|>('ar stri[ic(l willi white. Such
a l»reediii<>' phice is called hv tho liiissiaiis u ba/aar. (hi lluj
siiiiniiit ot* isolated clin's, and suft'eriiio; no otiier bird in liis
vicinitA', nestles the larj^'e t^i'ey sea-mew [Litnui (jhiiiciis], to
whom tho Dutcli \Yhah>eat(diers have <;iven the name ol'
hnr!''hevmaster. While the iee-l)eiir is monareli of the land
animals, this i^'ull a{)p(Mi's as tlu^ s(»vevei^'n lord of all the
sealjirds iironnd, and n(» guillemot would venture to disjuite
tho possession of a dainty morsel claimed by the imperious
buruhermistev.
This abundance of the sea has also attracted man 1o the
desi.'rt shores of NovtiA'a Zemlyii. Lcui'^ before IJareni/,
mad(^ Avestern Europe acquainted with the existence of
Novaya Zendya (1-V,» 1—9(1), tho land was known 1o the
Russians as a valuable huntinu' or fishing- ground; for the
Dutch discttverer met with a lavi>'e number of their vessels
on its coast. Burrou<4'h, who visited the jtort of Kohi
in J •").')(!, in search of the unfortunate Willonyliby, and
thence sailed as far as tho mouth of the Petschora, likewise
saw in tlio <^'ulf of Kola no less than thirty lodjes, all des-
tined for Avalrus-huntine- in Novaya Zemlya.
Whether, before the Russians, tlie adventurous Norsemen
ever visited these desolate islands is unknown, but so nmcli
is certain, that ever since the times of Barentz tlie exi)edi-
tions of the Muscovites to its western coast have been imin-
terruptedly continued. As is the case with all lishing- specula-
tions, their success very much depends upon chance. The
year 18:)4 was vary lucrative, so that in the followinij- sea^tlll
about eighty ships, with at least 1,000 men on board, sailed
for Novaya Zemlya from the ports of the White Sea, l)ut
this time the results Avere so unsatisfactory that in 1S.!()
scarce half the number were fitted out. in 1S:}7 no more
than twenty vessels were employed, and Von Baer rtdates
that but one of them which penetrated into the sea of Xai'a
made a considerable profit, while all the rest, Avith but fiw
exceptions, did not pay <me-half of their expenses.
The most vahuible animals are the Avalrus and the AvliitJ
■..>.Hili
risiii.\(, ciiorvDs (»r novava /,i:mi-va.
\o'.\
^\
hit-'
l.cl
AliKili;^' llic scmIs, tlic I'll
li
i|i>l|ililll. or l)cni;^'il. iMlKill;^' I lie scMis, llic I lnwd (iihujiiui
(if Piilliis tlistiiiLiMiislics itscll" liy its si/c, lln' lliickncss of its
skill, 1111(1 its ([iKilititv (if f;lt ; I'lmrn (jra iihi nilicil illid I'licra
liisjiiilii Viiuiv iii'xt ill c^tiiiiii t ion. 'J'lic ( Jrcciilaiul wliiiii!
iii'Ncr cxti'iids his excusioiis to tlic wiitcrs of XoViiVii Zcliih;!,
ft ft
I. lit the liii-ljiick and the Li'i'ii iiipus ai'o fr('(|ii('ntl_v si'i'ii.
Tlu' Alpine siilnion [Siilnin idjiiiii'f), whiidi iowiirds
iiiitnuiu iisfi'nds into llio niduntain-lakt's, is oaiii^lit in in-
ert 'di I ilc nnndxTs ; and, (iiially, th(' lj('an-<^'oos(' {A user sitjil mn)
Itrceds s(i fr('([uently, at least upon tiie sontln-rn island, that
the i^atheriny- of its quill leathers is au object of some ini-
iH.irtanee,
/ ,«-^
icnu'ii
inirli
jifdi-
iniiii-
■(•lll;i-
The
;e;i;.(ili
sailed
I, hut
lS:!i;
more
■elates
Kani
t few
.vii<l»«
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)
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Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
^^
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^^
>J*
6^
'^.A.^S-
^ ^
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY 145BO
(716) 872-4503
"i:
CHAPTER XI I.
TOE liAPl'S.
Ilfir ;ill''|r|i
t 11 i>|iirv ;ii'cl ( 'liiivi
tM ('
M•|^! I. nil
tv S, !t'-ilriiial :ili<l I'mV' I'l v o\
\\\i- lyMjiiaiiil Ciii'iiy Tlirir ?.iiif.nilar .Mcnlc ot' I'ciacliiiig (Jruss Sii|MrNlitiiiii
(if ilic i/apiiv -Tile llvil S\<\\'\\ lit' tlu' AViiuil. — Till' Laiilaiiil Witi'lics I'liy.^ii'al
Cciiisfitntioii fiftlic l,aii|i> 'i'hrir I>rc>-s— Tl.c I'jiilllai.jnir.s- Tlicir Dwi'Uinirs-
Sinvi' IJiiiiM s li'iiiuli ( r I'lii,- .MilkiiiiT tilt' Iiriiuloi'i' — Mipfnitidiis 'i'lic I-ap-
land J»nir Skiilfi>. <ir Skaic^— The Sl,.,l^r,., ,,,. Pujka- Nafiiral I'.Miitio of Laji-
laml — AtlacliiMiiil of the La]'i» tn tluirCniiiilrv — licar iliintiiiL' — \N"nlf liuiiiiiiL:
- .M"(lr of LiviiiL' iif llic wialliiy I,api»< — llowllicy kill the Kiiii'licr-A'i^it-
iufj llif I'air .Maiiiinoii Wdi-liip- TriaMiio Ilidin^r — "'I'al'ak. nr liraciulo " —
Affi't'liuiiati; l>i>|")>iii'in <>f llic l.aj.p.s 'I'lic Skugslapp — Tlu' l''i>liii'lai'p.
riTlIK iiiition of tilt' L;i[)i»s sj)r(':i(ls over tlu' iKnilitTii i)arts
1- of Sfiindiiiiivlii iiiid Fiiilund, IWtiii about tlio ij'-hd
(](.o-ivo of latitude to tlio i-oiifiiu'S of tlio Polar Oceau; but
llicir uumbcr, lianllv auiouutiui,' to luoro tlian twcuty tliou-
saud, bears no proj)or(i<»u to the exteut of the vast re<j^ioiis
in whieh they are found. Althoui^h now subjeet to the
crowns of iJussiii. Sweden, and Norway, they aneientiv
possessed the whole Seandinavian peninsula, until tlie
li\
viral
n^rs —
1' l-:ip-
Vi>il-
lo ■■-
parts
but
Lliou-
li'iitly
th".'
j,i^>^(f>i
,. r, . I •• V(«l<(6''
l:llN'Fl|lli IIIRI1.
s
a
II
I
li
n
(;
w
111
tl
:ii
\ (
<•!
yt
A.
or
Imi
l)(
l!r
Li.
Th
as
JllU
sf»r
iiiit
zoa
(lis I
full
the
bar
(It'll
tor
toll
cf il
fluii
(•((.vvKR.-^io.v or Tin: lapis.
ij.-i
sniis of Odin drove fliciii rin-tlicr and Ciirtlu'r t»> the iioiili,
:ind, t.iil<in<4- possession of the coasts and vallevs, left tlieiii
iiittliin^^ hut the l>h'ak mountain and the des(date tnndra.
In the thirteenth ceuturv, under Ihe rei<;-n of ^Ma^uns Ladis-
l;is, Kint,'- of Sweden, their subju^'ation was completed hy
111'' llirkarls, a race dwellinjif on the borders of the JJothnian
(Juif. These Birkarls had to pay the crown a sli<.iht tribute,
wliirh they wran^' more than a hundredtuld from the Lapps,
until at leu'^'th Ciustavus I. «jfranted the persecuted savajjfes
llie ]>rotecti<»n of m<»re ecjuitable laws, and sent missionaries
ainon;^' tlieni to relievo them at the same time from tlu^
vnke «»f their ancient superstitions. In 1(J00, Charles TX.
ordered churches to be built in their country, and, some
vears after, his sou and sucj-essor, the celebrated (iustavus
Adolphus, founded a school for the Lapps at Pitea, aud
ordered several eleuieutary works to be translated into their
lan;,'uan-e. In the year 1002, Christian IV., Kinjif t»f
Dciuaark and Norway, while ou a visit to the province of
Kininark, was so incensed at the gross idolatry of the
liupjis that he orth-red their jiriests or sorcerers to be per-
secuted with bloofly severity. A worthy cler^'ymau, Eric
|{re<lal. of Drontheim. used uieaus uiore cousonaut with the
spirit of the (Josptd, and, havinj^' instructed several youujjf
LapjKS, seut them backay-ain as missionaries to their families.
These interpreters of a purer faith Avere, however, received
;is :i[iostates au<l traitors by their suspicious countrymen,
and cruelly uuirdered, most likely at the instigation of the
sorcerers. In 17<>7, Frederic TV. founded the Finmark
mission, and in 171<> Thomas Westen, a man of rare
/eal and perseverance, preached the (!osp»d in the wildest
'lisli'icts of the province. Other missionaries and teachers
followed his example, aud at length succeeded in converting
llie Lapps, and in some measure conquering their ancient
harl)arism. Nothing can be uu»re a<Imirable than the self-
deniul and heri>ic fortitude of these ministers <tf Christ, for
to I'enounce all that is precious in the eyes of the world to
follow n(tmads little better than .savages through the wilds
of an Arctic country surely requires a courage not inferior to
that of the soldier
Whci <.( iks j>ri t'l rnitiit at tlic onimnir'- j>ii>iifli.
126
TIIK I'ULAll WOIILI).
Tlic Lapliiiid scliodlmaster enjoys an annual salary <>('
twenty-five dollars, and receives besides half a dollar lor
every child instructed. But the jtriest is not much better
oft', as liis stipend amounts to no more than thirty dollars iii
iiioney, and to about loO dollars in produce. Amon^- this
niisi'rably j»aid clerj^y there are, as in Ic«dand, men worthy
of a better lot. The famous Li»stadius was priest at Kares-
uando, seventy-five leaj^ues from Tromsf), the nearest tcnvn,
and a hundred leagues from Tornea. His family lived upon
rye bread and fishes, and but rarely tasted reindeer flesh.
Chamisso mentions another Lapland priest Avho had spent
seven years in his parish, which lay beyond the limits
of the forest rcj^^ion. In the summer he was completely
isolated, as then the Lapps wandered with their herds to
the cool shores of the icy sea ; and in the winter, when tlie
moon afforded li^ht, he travelled about in liis sledj^e, fre-
quently bivouacking;; at the temperature of free/in^; mercury
to visit his Lapps. Duriny; all that time his solitude had
been but twice broken by civilised man : a brother had come
to see him, and a botanist had strayed to his dwelling-, lie
well knew how to appreciate the pleasure of such meetinjL,'f<,
but neither this pleasure nor any other, he said, was erpial to
that of seeing- the sun rise ajjain above the hori/on after the
lon^ winter's ni;^-ht.
It is a siuf^ular custom that the pastors preaching- to the
Lapps deliver their harangues in a tone of voice as elevated
as if their audience, instead of being assendjled in a small
chapel, were stationed upon the top of a distant mountain,
and labour as if they were going to burst a bloodvi'ssel. Dr.
Clarke, who listened to one of these sermons, which lastrd
one hour and twenty minutes, ventured to ask the reason
of the very loud tone of voice used in preaching. The min-
ister said he was aware that it must appear extraordinary
to a stranger, but that, if he were to address the Laplanders
in a lower key, they would consider him as a feeble and
impotent missionary, wholly unfit for his office, and would
iiever come to church; tluit the merit and abilities of the
preacher, like that of many a popular politician, are always
estinnited by the strength and power of his lungs.
Though the Lapps (thanks to the efforts of their spirituid
LAPKANl) .Sri'KUSTITKKV:
1.^)7
o'uidcs) liurdlv (.'vt'ii ivnu'inln'r l>v iiiinu' ilio irods of tht'ir
fiithcrs — Aijii, Akka, Tnona — tlioy still pay a scfivt liouia^'«»
to tilt' Saidas, or idols of wood or stoiio, t»> wliom tlu'V Avcri'
iiccustoiiu'd to sacrifice tlio bones aJid lionis of the rcindi'or.
'I'licv arc ill fact an cxtrcnitdv superstitious race, faithfully
Ih'lievini^: in <^di(»sts, witchcraft, and above all in .Stallo, or
Tniller, the Evil Spirit of the woods.
Many of them, when about io i^-o hunt in;^-, throw a stirk
into the air, and then take their way in the direction to
wliich it points. The appearance of the Aurora l^orealis fills
till ni with terror, as they believe it to be a si^n of divine
wrath, and o'enerally shout and howl dnrin«j; the whole dura-
tion of the ^'rand phenotnenon, which their if]fnorance con-
nects with their own petty existence.
The pretended gift of beiny; able to predict future events
is coininon among' the Laplanders. The st)rcerers fall into a
magic ^deep, during which their soul wanders. In this state,
like the somnambules of more polished nations, they reveal
things to come, or see what i)asses at a distance. Men and
women affect the power of fortune-telling' by the c(»mmon
trick of palmistry, or by tlie inspection of a cup of li(pior;
and this, to ensure the greatest possible certainty, must be a
cup of brandy, which at once ex[>lalns the wlude business of
the [>rophecy. The Lapland witches pretended, or perhaps
still pretend, to the power of stilling; the wind or causing the
rain to cease, and such was their reptitation that English
seamen tradiiif^ to Aichan^j^el made it a point to land and
buy a wind from these j)oor creatures.
The Lapps are a dwarfish race. On an average, the men
do not (^'xceed five feet in lieiglit, many not ev(>n reaching
I'our, and the women are considerably K'ss. ^lost of them
:iit', however, very ndnist, the t'ii'euml\'renee of their chest
iienrly ecpiallinj^ their height. Their cotnidexion is more or
less tawny and copper- coloured, their hair dark, straight, and
l;iuk, its dangling masses adding much to the wildness of
their aspect. They have very little beard, and -as its want
is coiisidi'i'ed a beautv, the voimg men carefullv eradicate
tile scanty supply given them by nature.
Their dark piercinjg eyes are generally dei'p smdc in their
iK'ads, wid«dy se})arated from each other, and, lik»' th(»se of
]r,H
TIIK I'ol.All \V<)UIJ>.
tlir Tiirtni-M r»r ('liiiirsc, oblitpiclv slit towiirMs tin- trinplfs.
The flM'('l<-b»>ii('S iir«' lii;_!-li, the iiioiith piuclit'd cli'sc. Itiit
wide, the intsc ilut. Tlio eyes arc ''t'licnillv sdvc, ciilirr in
«'(ni,s('(nu'iioi' (»t' tlu' Ititiu^jf siiidkc of llu'ir lints, or of the ic-
friiftioii from tlio snow, sotliat a liajtj) schhtin attains ii IuliIi
ji;,^o witliont btH'omiiif^' blind. Their cMHintenanc'es ^(Mici-allv
present a repulsive ronibination of stolidity, low eunnin;^:, and
obstinacy, ilo^'j^nier, who dwelt several months amon;^ them
and Siiw diirin<jf this time at least H(M> F^apps, found not
twenty who were not decidedly U'jfly ; an<l Dr. Clarke says
that nmny of them, wlien more advanced in years, mi^ht, if
exhibited in a mcna;j^«'rie of Avild beasts, be considcreil as the
lon^'-lost link between man and ape.
Their Ic^s are extremely thick and clumsy, but tlu'ir hands
areas small and tinelv shai>ed as those of any aristocrat.
The reason for this is that from ^a'ueration to ^cju'ration
they never perform any manual lal)our, and the vi-ry trillin;;'
wt)rk which they do is necessarily of the li<4htest kind. Their
limbs are sinj^ularly ilexible, easily fallin;^' int<> any posture,
like all the Oriental nations, and their hands are constantly
occupied in the beginnin;^ of conversation with hllino; a short
tobacco-pipe, the head bein^' turned over vuo shouhh'r to
the iH'rson addressed. Such are the traits by which the whole
tribe is distinpfuished from the other iidiabitants of Europe,
and in which they differ from the other natives of the land
in which they live.
The sunnner «i;arb of the men consists of the ' poesk,'
a sort of tunic, f»'enerally made of a very coarse lij^ht-coloiiri'd
woollen cloth, reachinj^ to the knees, and fastened round
the waist with a belt or girdle. Their woollen caps are
shaped precisely like a ni^ht-cap, or a Turkish fez, with a
red tassel and red worsted band round the rim, for they are
fond of lively hues strongly contrasted. Their boots or
shoes are made of the raw skin of the reindeer, with the
luiir outwards, and have a peaked shape. Thoufjh these
shoes are very thin, and the Lapp wears no stockings, yi't
lie is never annoyed by the cold or by strikino- against
stones, as he stuffs them with the broad leaves of the (.'(inx
rcaiciirld, or eyperus jjfrass, which he cuts in summer and
dries. This he first combs and rid)s in his hands, and tlu-n
LAl'LANl) crSTO.MS.
1 .1!)
wllolt'
)l(»lirt'(l
roiunl
»ts or
[h tl
tl
!•'
V.'t
L'iiiiist
<'«
II
[V illKl
thru
pliu'i'sit ill siu'h ii iiuiniicrlluit it covtM-s not only liis I'cct but
his 1<'<X'< iili^'*.. ii"<l lu'in;^" thus f^ii.ii'th'd, h<' is (|iiit»" HCi'urcd
iiU'siinst the iiitt'iisc (.•oM. \Vitli this ^imss, which is nii
iithniriihh' nou-condiiitov of hciit, he likrw isc stufVs liis ijflovcs
ill nnlcrto pivstTvo liis IiiukIs. I!ut ;is it Avards otl' iho cold
ill winter, so in snnmicr it kt'cps the fct't cool, iind is c<»n-
st'([iu'n<!y nscd at all seasons. The women's a)»i)art'I difl'crs
very littlt) i'rom that of the otluM* sex, hut their ;^'irdles an-
more ornamented with riny-s and chains. In winter both
sexes are so packed up in skins as to look inoii' like l>cars
than human being's, and, when sfpiattin;;- accoi-din^- to the
fashion of their country, exhibit ii niouiul of furs, with the
head resting upon the top of it.
Accordin;j,' to their diiferent mode of life, the Lapps may
be aptly sul)divided into F)iillla]>[tars, or iNlountaiii Lapjis :
Skoyslai>pars, or Wood Lapps ; and Fislierla]t[ts.
The Fjiilllappars, Avbo form the greater ami most charae-
teristie part of the nation, lead an exclusiv«'ly pastoral life,
ami are constantly wanderiii<j;' with tlu'ir herds of reindeer
from place to place, for the lichen which forms the chief food
of those animals durin;^ the ^nvater part of the year is soon
cro})[)ed from the niy^urd soil, and recpiiros years for its re-
pivMluction. For this reason, also, this people do not herd
to^-ether, and never more than three or four families pitch
their huts, or tuy^iiria, upon the same spot. Of course the
(Iwellino- of the nomad Lapp harmonises with his va;4*rant
habits; a rude tent, which can easily l)e taken to pieces, and
as easily erected, is all he requires to shelter his family and
chattels. It consists of flexible stems of trees, i)laced t(»-
l^'ethor ill a conical form, like a stack of poles for hf»ps, and
covered in the summer with a coarse cloth, in winter witli
additional skins, to be better fenced a<j;"ainst tire inclemencies
of the climate. To form the entrance, a part of the han^nno-,
about eiu-hteen inches wide at the bottom, and terminatiim'
ui>wards in a point, is made to turn back, as upon hiiij^es.
The hearth, consistin<^ of several hxv^o stones, is in the
centre, and in the roof immediately above it is a square
opening- for the escape of smoke and the admission of rain,
siKtw, and air. All the li|^ht which the den receives Avhen
the door is closed ci^nnes from this hole. The diameter of
100
Tin: POI.AR UOIII-T).
Olio of lh«\s(' conit'iil lints ^^t'lH'mlly imnsun's sit its I)iist> jio
iiiuiv lliiiii six t»'('t ; its whole circmnt't'n'nt't', i»r ciMirsf, does
not ox('<'«'(l ci^rJitt'cn I'voi, and its cxtn'nn' li('i;^lit miiy he
iilxMit t«'n f't'ct. TIm' floor is vcrv noarlv t'ovenMl with roin-
diMT skins, on which the iiiinatcs s(|nat dnrin;^' thf (hiy, and
Hh'«'p at ni^dits, contract int*' their lind)s to^rcthcr and Imddlin;^
r«»nnd their liearth, so that each individual of this pi^'niy race
<»ccnj)i«'S scarcely more space than a don^. ( )n the sides of
the tent are snspended a nnniher of pots, wooden howls, and
other honseludd ntensils ; and a, small chest contains the
holiday apparel of the family. .Snch are the dwellings of
those amon^' the La[)landers who are called wealthy, and win)
•sometijnes i)ossoss very considerahh' property.
Near tlu» tent is the dairy or storehonse of the estahlish-
nient. It consists of nothim; more than a shelf or j»latform,
raised hetweeu two trees, so as to l>e <»nt of the reach of the
doy;s or wolvos. The means of ascent to this treasury of
onrds, ch(»ese, and dried reindeer flesh, is siniply a tree
stri|»[)ed <»f its branches, but i»resentin^', at every foot or so,
knobs, which serve the sanu* ])nrpose as staves on a, ladder,
the tree beiui,' oblicpiely reared a-^ainst the i»latforni.
Another charact(>ristic featnre of a Lap}) encampment is
found in the enclosures in which the reindeer an? penne<l
during the ni^lit, or for the purpose of milkini;. These are
oireus-liko open places, each of a <Iiameter of about one
liundrt'd and fifty fiH't, and are fornwd by stumps of trees
and poh's set upright on the j^round, and linked to«4vther Ity
horizontal poles. A;4ainst the latter are reared birch poles and
bramdu's of trees, varying" from six to ten feet in height, with-
out the sliii'htest attemjit at neatness, thcMvliolebein^^ as rude
as well can be, n sutticient security against the wolves beinixall
that its builders desire. The milkin*;- of a herd of reindeer
j)resents a most aninnite(l scene. When they have been driven
within the enclosure, and all outh'ts are secured, a Lapi>, se-
lectinjjf a lon^ thon<'^ or cord, takes a turn of both ends rouii<l
his left hand, and then ^^'athers what sailors call the bi^ht in
loose f(dds, held in his rii^ht. lie now sin<j;;les out a reindeer,
and throws the bij^ht with nnei-rin<j^ aim over the antlers of
the victim. Sometimes the latter makes no resistance, but in
yeneral the moment it feels the toncdi (tf the th(Ui«', it break-<
1-A1M,AM> DWKM.I.Vt,
ir.i
iiwiiy IVoin tilt' s[)(it, iiiid is only sci-nrtMl by tlic most strciiuotis
txi'i'tiiMis. l-]v<Tv iiiiiiutc iiiiiv l>t' seen ill! iiimsiiiillv power-
I'll! (li'cr ruriniisly «lr;i;i'^iii;4; ii Lapi* ruuinl and roiiiul IIk!
ciirloiiit', iiinl souK'tiiiH'.s it I'iiii'Iy nviTcniiics tlu' rostniiiit «»t*
till- tlioii^r. iuul It'iiVfs its iiiitiiL;<»iiist prustriitc on tlic sod.
Tills i>iirt nl" tlio sft'iic is luLridy I'xritiii^-, and it is iinjxissiblo
not to adniin* the traiiK-d skill cvinci'd l)y all the Lapiis,
wonii-n as \\v\\ as men. Tlif resistance oi' tlie deer bein-r
overeonie, the Iia|»[) takes a dexterons liit(di of the thon^
round his niu//.le and head, and tluMi fastens him to the
trunk of a |>rostrate tree, many ofwiiieh have Ix-en broiiylit
>vitinu the levtd enclosure lor that es])e('ial purpose. ]Meu
an(l women are indiscriminately en^'ap'd lioth in siu;,dinLC
oui niilih reins, and in milking" theni. Kverv one is lullv
ofcuj'ied, tor even the little children are practising- the
Ihrowiii-' of the lasso, in wiiich thev evince •'•reat dexteritv,
iiitiiouuh their streui^th is insnflicieut to hold the smallest doe.
When the pasture in the iiei^hbourliood is fully exhausted,
w hich ^-enerally takes place in about a fortnight, the encamp-
ment is broken up, to In* erect«.'d a;;*ain on some other spc»t.
Ill less than half an hour the tent is taken to i»ieces, and
pa'kt'd with all the h«»usi'hold furniture np«»n the backs of
reindeer, who In' lonij^ trainiuLj^ acijuire the cajiacity of
siTviiiLi- as beasts of burden. On the i(»urnev thev arc bound
tojctiiei-, five and live, with thonn's of leather, and led bvtho
Women over the mountains, while the father <»f the family
in.cedis the marcdi to select a pr<»per place for the new
'inanipment, and his sons or servants folK»w with the re-
iiiaiuiler of the herd.
Towards the end of sj^riny" the Lai>i»s descen<l tVom the
iiioiuilaius to the sea. When they ap[)roach its borders, the
rcju'let'r, snittinj:^ the sea air from a distance, rush tnmul-
luoiisly to the fjord, where they take lon;^- drau^ihts of the
^i\\\<'i\ water. This, as the Lapps believ*', is essential to
tli'ir liciilth. As the sunnnin' advances, and the snow melts,
tih'v ascend higher and hiu'her into the mountains. At the
i'l'l'i'^atdi of winter, they retreat into the woods, where, with
iIk' assistance of their doi^-s and servants, they have en. •;li
t" do to keep otl'the attacks of the wolves. The reindeer do<^
is about the size <.>f a Scotch terrier, l)nt his head bears a
M
1G2
TIIK I'oLAK UOULl).
i I
woiidcrfiil rnscniMiiiirc (otliiit <»f'tli<' Iviix. ITIs cdloui" viii'ics
(•oiisi(l<'riil>ly, l>ii< Hie liuir is iiI\Vii}s |(ni<^^ ami hIim;;;;:}. Iii-
viiliiiiI)N' as ar«« liis stTvicos, In* is iicvt'i'tliclrss (r»'ai»Ml with
^ival cnicltv.
Fur tlicii" winter jounn'VH tlu' LaiipH use sl»'(l;:y«'s or skates.
()\w ol' their skates, or ' skiders,' is usually as lou<^ as the
person who wears it; the other is ahout a loot shorter. The
feet stand in the middle, and to (hem th«' skates are fastened
by thon<,'s or withes. The skiders are made of lir-wood, aixl
covered with the skins (tf youn^^ reindeer, wliich ohstruet a
ri'tro^n-ade mov<'ment by actin;^' like bi'isth's a«,'ainst the
snow — the roots p(»intiu;j; towards the forepart of th«' skat<',
and thus preventing their slip[»inj^ ba(k. With tlu'se
skiders, the fiapp Hies like a bird (»ver the snow, now sealing'
the UKMintains by a tortuous ascent, and now durtiny «lown
into the valley :
Oi'idi" I'l rvis ft fi;;iiiti' niiiiliiis
Ocinr I'ltiru.
Sudi is tlie rajtidity of liis course, that he will t»vertake the
swiftest wild beasts; and so violent the exercise, that dnrinu
the most ri^-onais season (»f tlie y«'ar, when earnestly en^'a^-ed
in the chase, he will divest himself (»f his furs. A Ion<,' pole
with a round ball of wood near the end, to prevent its pieniii;^
too deep in the snow, servos to stop the skater's course
when he wishes to rest. The Laplander is no less expert in
the use <»f the sledge, or 'pulka,' which is made in the tbnii
of a small boat with a convex botbun, that it may slide all
the more easily over the snow ; the prow is sluu'i) and pointed,
but the sledge is tlat behind. The traveller is swatla'd in
this carriage like an infant in a cradl(», with a stick in his
hand to steer the vessel, and disengage it from the stones or
stum[»s of trees which it may chaiu.*e to encounter in lin'
route. He must also balance the sledge with his body, te
avoid the danger of being overturned. The traces by which
this carriage is fastened to the reindeer, are lixed to a collar
about the auinuirs neck, and run down over the breast
between the fore and hind-legs, to be connected with the
prow of the sledge ; the reins nuinaged by the traveller are
tied to the horns, and the trapi)ings are furnished with little
bells, the staind of which the animal likes. With this draught
at his tail, the rcintlrer will travel sixty or seventy English
IIOMK SICK.VKS.^ n|' LAIM'S.
hit
mill's III ji (liiy ; oUcii luTscvcriii'/ lifty iiiilcs without iiiti'r
mission, jim| witlioiil tiikim'' uiiv rt'lVcsliiiiciit, oxctMit «
OCCJI-
sioiuiily iiioist<>)iiiio- his mouth with the snow. His liiipliiml
th'ivcr l\U(»ws liow to liiitl liis wiiy through the wihh'i'iics.s
with ;i snr|>i'isiii<„' rci'tiiinty : Ihtc ii rock, th»'i'<> n lir-tn'c, is
impi'csscil iis a lanthiiiirk ou liis t'liithtul mtuiorv, au<l thus,
like the h«'st pilot, lit> stcrrs his sh'd^'c to tho <listaiit end
ol' his joiirncy. I''n'(pi»'nily the Aurora lii^hts him on his
way, illumining' the siiow-rovcrt'd landscape with a mayfic
luilliancy, and investing' every ohject with a dream-like,
>iipeinatural heauty.
Ihit even witliout tlie aid of tliis nivsti'rious coruscation,
l,ai»laiid is ricli in ^'raud and picturesipie features, and has all
the roinauce of the mountain and the forest. In summer
countless rivulets moauder throiii^h valleys of alpine ver-
(hire, and l>road pelhu-iil rivers rush down the slopes in
tlimideriii;^ cataracts, emhracin^' islands dotlu'd with pine-
tncs of incomparahle diijnity and ^•raco. ^Vhoever has
'^r<i\vn up in scenes like tliese, and been accustomed from
iiiliincy to the uncontrolled freeihmi of the nomad state, re-
crivt's impressions nevi-r to l>e erased; and thus we cannot
wonder that the wild Laplander believes his coiinti-y to be a
terrestrial paradise, and feels nowhere ha[>pybut at lionie.
In the yi'iir 1811>, a Scotch ^^entleman attempted to ac-
tliiaalise the reindeer in Scotland, and induced two yoiui^^
l,;i]>landers to iicc'onipany tlio herd which he had bought for
that purpose. The reindoor soon perished, and the La]*-
laiiders would luive died of nostalgia if they had not been
Milt home by the first oj»portunity. Prince Jal>lonowskv, a
l'('li>li nobleman, Avho travelled about thirty years since
t]iroui;'h a ]>art of liussian Lapland, took a Lap[) i^-irl with
liim '.o 8t. IV'tersbur;^'. lie i^ave her a superior educati(tn,
:iiid she was well treated in evei-y I'esjtect. She made ra[>id
pi'ou'ivss, and sooniod to be jierfectly riH-oiiciled to her new
Ik line. About two years al'tt'r her arrival, it ha}>[>ened that
ii Ifussian pMitlenuin, who possi-ssed extensive estates
iiiar the capital, bought a small herd of reindeer, which
iinived under the nuidance of a Lajip tamily. As it was
winter-time, and these people had broiii^ht with them their
tints, their sled;^es, and their snow-shoes, they soon became
1G4
TIIK POLAR AVORLP.
ol)j«>ots of cniinsity, and crowds of fasliittiiablt^ visitors
iloc-kcd to thoir (MicainpiiuMit : aiiioii^" dtlicrs the ^-ood-
iialurcd [(riiicc, who iinpnult'iitly cfMidnclcd his i)U|»il, the
youii;^' liiipland ^irl, to see li»'r oountr\ men, aii interview
which he supj>osed would <jfive her ^reat ^ileasuro. But
fi'oiu that nionient she beeauie an altered beiuijf ; she lost her
s[iirits and her appetite, and, in spite of every care and atti.'U-
tion, her health declined from day to <lay. One nR)rnin<i'
she disa[»peared, and it was found on inquiry that she had
returned to her family, where she remained ever after.
Another very reniarkahle instance of the Laplanders' love
of their country is related by Houstritni. Durin*;" the war of
riustavus III. with liussia, a youn;^' Laplander enlisted in a
reii'inu'nt wliich was passing through Tornea. He served in
several campaigns as a common soldi«>r, was made a serg'eaut
in fousiMpuMice of liis o-oo,! ci»nilu(t and coura<j;v: and haviui,''
<i-iven himself the t^'reaK'st trouble to improve his education
and act|iiire military knowledi^-e, at len;^'th, after twenty years
<»f servii-e, attained the rank of captain in the Swedish army.
After tills loujii" time spent in the civilised W(»rld, and haviuL;'
become at'customed to all its enjoyments and comforts, lie
felt a str<»n!i' desire to revisit his family and his counti-v.
Scarcely had he seen his native mountains, and s^tent a few
days anions" his c(nnitrymen and the reindr-er, than he at once
quitted the service, and resinned the nomad life of his youth.
The Laplander's chief desire is for peace and tranquillity.
Exposed to all the jn'ivations of a vai>Tant life, and to every
inclemency of weather, he endures the cavatest hardships
with ecjuanimity, desirin;^' only not to be disturbed in the
enjoyment of the little that is his — not to be interfered with
in his (»ld customs and habits.
Yet this same peaceful Laplander, who has so easily sub-
mitted to a forei^'u yoke, is one of the bttldest hunters, ami
not only pursues the elk or the wild reindeer, but eni:;ai:'ts
in sin^'lc combat with the bear. Like all the other Arcti'"
irations of Kussia and Siberia, he has stranu'e notions aVtout
this animal, which in his opinion is the most cunniny ami
^•ifted of all created bein^-s. Thus he supposes that the bcnv
knows and hears all thatissai<l about him, and for this reason
he takes n^ood care never to speak of him disrespectfully. It
mav seem strani4'e that he should ventin-e to slav an aniiniil
iii'XTiNij Tin: r.KAFi.
IG.J
which ranks so hiLi-h in his ostooni ; but tht> tonii)t;iti(»n is tmt
slrtnti', as its firsh lias an fxct'llcnf Ihivnur, and its t'nr, tll(MI^■h
ni't ii(.'ur so vahiahle as that of ihf American hhiek-boar, is
still worth from fiftcfii to twoiitv dollars.
At the bt'u-innini'- «it' winter, the bear, as i
s Wt
11 1
known,
rctirt's eitht'r int(» a rorky cave, or under a rovei'of brancdios,
Itnvt'S, and moss, and remains there without food, and plunL^'ed
ill sleep, until the next sprinjii' reealls him t(» a more active
xisteueo. Afti-r the first fall of snow, the Ijait]* hunters <j;
o
into the forest, and look out for traces of the ln'jir. Having*
tnund them thev carefully mark the spot, and ret urn inu' after
a few weeks disturb the slumbering brute, and excite him to
an attack. It is not considered luwiourable to shoot him
while slee|iiiiti- ; and in many jtarts of Lajtiand, the hunter
who W(»uld kill a bear with any other weapon but a lance,
Would be universally despised. Hoi*'o-uer uecGn)})anied two
biipps, W(dl-arme(l with axes and stout lances with I>arl»ed
points, on one of these bear-hunts. When abont a hiuidrcd
paces iVomthe lair, the eomj)any halted, while one of the Lapps
ad\anced shi>utin<4-, tellinu'his comrades to ujakeas much noise
n< they could. When about twenty paces from the cavern, ho
stood still and llun<4'sev»n'al stones into it. For some time all
\vas (juiet, so that Ho^'u'uer bepin to fear that the lair was
ilrsiitcd, when sutldenly an an^ry i^rowl was heard. The
hunters now redouljh-d their clamour, until slowly, like an hou-
esl citizen disturbed] in his noonday slundiers, the benr came
out of his cavern. But this traiKpiillity did not last lonu, f<>r
ill'' lirute, as soon as he perceiveii his nearest enemy, uttererl
:i short roai". and rushed upon hiiiK The Liijip coolly awaited
llie onset with his lance in rest, until the liear. ci uiinLV qui^'o
ii'ar. raised himself on his hanntdies, and be;;an to strike at
hiin with his *V>repaws. The hunter bent down to avoitl the
strikes, and then, suddenly rising', with a sure eye mid with
nil his niii4'ht. pluuf^'ed his lance into the heiirt of the bc;ir.
I'urinLf this short conflict the [iapp hatl received a sji^lit
wiiiind on the hand, l)ut the marks of the bear's teeth were
loniid deeply imiu'essed upon the iron (tf the lance. Accordini;-
to an ancient custom, the wives of the hunters assemble in the
iiut ofoiie of them ; ami as soon as they hear tin- retiirniiio
sii'rtsnien, hei^in (diantiuL;' or howling' a sonu' in jn-aiseof the
hear. When the men. la<h>n with the skin and Ih sh *>{' the
lofi
TIIK r(M,.\l{ \V<»KM>.
iiiiiniiil, iipproiU'li, flicy ;iiv rcccivod by the woiimmi willi <»]»-
pr<»l)ri(>us cpitliots, iiiul I'orbiddi'u impress tliroii^li the <l(»<>r ;
so tliiit they arc <»l)lljj;V'(l to iiuilvc a hole in the wall, tliroii^li
which they enter with their S[M>ils. This eonuMly, whidi
is meant to pacify the manes of the victim, is still acted,
though not so frerpu'ntly as fornu>rly ; bnt the cnslom
of be^y-in^' the bear's pardon Avith many tears, is com-
pletely ont of date. The animal's interment, however, still
takes ]>lace with all the ancient honours and cerem<»nies.
After having' been skinned, and its ilesh cut ott", the body is
buried in anatomical ord»'r — the head first, then the necls,
the forepaw, i^vc. This is done from a Ix'lief in the resurrec-
tion of the l>ear, who having- l)een decently burie<l, will, it is
hoped, allow himself t(j bo killed a second time by the sann'
Lapp ; while a neglect of the honours due to him would e.x-
as[>erate the whole race of bears, and cause them to wi'eak ;i
bloody veny-eance on the disrespectful hunter.
T^.- wolf is treated with much less ceremony. ]\rany ;i
wealthy Lapp, the owner of a thousand reijideer, has been re-
duced to poverty by tin' rava<ifes of this sava<>'C beast, whi<li
is constantly prowlinj^' about the herds. Hence <»ne <!
the first questions they put to each other when they meet
is, •" Lekor rauheV' 'Is it peace P '—which meins nothinu"
more than, ' Have the wolves molested you V^ ' 8uch is tluir
detestation of these animals, that they believe them to Itc
creatures of the devil, contaminatin*;" all that touches them
while alive. Thus they will never shoot a wolf, as the i^uii
that killed him W(»uld ever after be accursed.
At the first alarm that wolves have appeared, the neii^li-
bours assemble, and the chase begins. For miles they pursue
him over hills and valleys on their ' skiders,' and kill him
with clubs, which they afterwards burn. They will n<'l
even defile themselves with skinniny," him, but leave his lii<l''
to the Finnish or Russian colonists, who, bein<^ less scru-
pulous or su}>erstitious, make a warm cloak of it, or sell it ['<>v
a few dollars at the fair.
Amonpf the Fjall Lapps there are many rich owners dt'
1,000 or l,oOO reindeer, -]00 of which fully suffice for the
maintenance (^f a family. In this case the owner is able
to kill as many as are necessary for providint*' his house-
"y
hold with food and raiment, while the sale of the super
DRUNK KXXIv^S oi' Tl!l'] LAI'I'S.
If.7
willi < lit-
he <loor ;
y, wliicli
il aet.'d,
custom
is C(tlH-
•vcv. still
•ciiKtiiics.
body is
ho n«'('l<.
rcsurrt'c-
vill, it is
th»' SillMt'
•o\\]{\ t'.x-
wiviik !i
!^^i^ly il
i been vf-
st, whiili
one <it
hey inert
notliiui:'
is their
ni to he
IDes them
the gun
10 neii^'h-
•V pursue
kill him
will net
his hide
"ss scru-
^ell itlnr
wners et
for the
is id>lo
house-
sup»'i*-
tluous siv'ins iiinl horns ennbles him to prirchaso cloth.
Hour, luinlware, iiiid other iieeessarv artiides — not to lbr"et
the tohaeco or the l)randy in \vhi( h he (hdi^hts. 'Y]u' price
of the entire carcase of a reindeer, skin and all, varies from
out> to three dollars Norsk (four shillin;4S and sixpence to
thirteen shillino-s and sixpence). A fine skin will always sell
for one dcdlar in any part <»f the North, it will thus he seen
that a Lapp possessing- a heril of .">()() or l,<Mi(»deer is virtually
11 capitalist in every sense of the word, far ri»dier than the
vast majority of his Norwegian, Swedish, or Jliissian fell(»w-
sidijeets, although they all atfeet to look upon him with
supreme contempt.
The daily food of the mountain La2)landers consists of the
fattest reindeer venison, which they boil, and eat with the
hroth in which it has been cooked. Their summer diet con-
sists of cheese and reindeer-milk. The rich also eat bread
haked upon hot iron plates.
Their mode of killing the reindeer is tlie method used by
the hntchors in the Stnith of Italy — the most ancient and best
method of slaying cattle, because it is attended with the least
pain to the animal aii<l the greatest profit io its possessor.
They thrust a sliarp-p<»iiited knife into the back i)art of the
heiid, l>etween the horns, so as to divide the s^iinal marrow
I'ldiii the brain. The beast instantly drops, and <lios without
il groiin or struggle. As socm as it falls, and appoiirs to bi-
dead, (he Lii[>laiider plunges the knife doxtercnisly behind
the off-shoulder into the heart ; then opening the animal, its
I'lood is found in the stomach, and ladled out into a [tot.
Boiled with fat and Hour it forms a favouriti^ dish.
All important epoch in the life of the Fj;ill Lii[tp is his annuiil
visit to one of the winter fairs held in the chief towns <tr
villiiges which the moie industrious Swedes, Norwegians, or
Kins hiive founded on the coasts here anrl tlnnv, <jr in the
Well-watered valleys of his fatherland, and whicdi he attends
htMjiieiitly from an immeuse distance. After a slight duty
to Government has been paid, business begins ; but as every
hiirgain is ratified with a full glass of brandy, his thoughts
get confused before the day is half over — a circumstance
which the cunning merchant does not fail to turn to account.
' *n iiwiiking the next morning, the vexation of the nomad
ill his had bargains is so much the greater, as no people are
Hii
Till: rOLAR WOULD.
move iivowc'd maniinoii-worsliippcrs than the Lapps, or more
iiicliut'd to siiiu', ^vith our B\irii!>;: —
() wae (111 tliL- >ill( r, it is smi' j>rr\ailiii' !
Their solo objoot .seems to bo the amassing of troasnro, for
the sole purpose of lioardiuy,- it. The avarice of a Laj^p is
•i^ralilied in eolk'etin^' a nnniher of silver vessels, or pieces of
silver coin ; and l)ei?ii4' unable to cai'ry this treasure with him
on his journeys, he Iniries the whole, not even making" his
wife acquainted with the secret of its deposit, so that when
ho dies the members of his family are often nnabh' to discover
Avhiwe he has hiildeii it. Some of the La}»ps possess a
hundredweii^ht of silver, and those who own l,oOO or 1,<I0<>
reindeer have much more; in short, an astonishiui;- qnantiiy
of specie is dispersed amonu' them. Silver plate, when
offered to them for sale, nuist bo in a polished state, or they
will not buy it ; for such is their i^-norauce, that when the
metal, by beiu^' k'e[»t buried, becomes tarnished, tlu'v conceive
that its value is impaired, and exchani^'o it for other silver,
whicli, beiny" repolished, tliey believe to bo new. The mer-
chants derive j^-reat benoht from this traffic.
Brandy and tobacco are the chief luxuries of tlu' Lapps.
The tobacco-pi[)o is never laid aside, except during* meals ; it
is even used bv the women, who also swahow spirits as
fi'i-eedily as the men ; in fact, both sexes will almost part witli
life itself lor the orutification of dram-driidcin^-. If you
walk up to a La))p, micouthly S(]uatted before ids tent,
his verv first salutation is nuule l)v stretching,' forth a tawnv
hand, and dennindiny, in a whining tone, ' Tabak,' or
* Braendi.' Dr. C*larke relates an amusin^i' instance of their
proiUMisity for spirituous liquors. On his very first visit to
one of their tents, ho o-ave the father c)f the familv aboe.t a
piid; of brandy, thinking he would husband it with great
car(\ :is he had seen him place it behind him, upon his bed,
near the skirting of the tent. The daughter now entered, and
bem'uvd for a taste of the brand v, as she had lost her share bv
being absent. The old man made no answer, but when tho
request was repeated, he slily crept round the outside of the
tout, until he can«o to the spot where the brandy was, when,
thrusting his arm beneath tho skirting, ho drew it out, and
sv.-allowed the whole tuute:its (f the bottle at a drau'dit.
TlIK FltRKSJT I.Al'rs,
I6d
(ir more
suro, for
Lapp i^
pii'cos of
,vith liini
tint wlu'ii
) discover
niiS.st'SS II
) or 1,000
quantity
c, or tlioy
Avlieii tlie
V coiiceivo
her silver,
The iiior-
le Lapp^-
meals ; it
s')irits as
part with
•. If you
his tent,
h a tawny
abak,' or
lee of their
st visit to
Iv about a
,vith fi'reiit
n his 1h'»1,
itereil, an<l
>r share I'V
It when tlio
side of the
iwas, ^vhen.
it out, and
The practice' of clraiii-(lriiihiii'4' is so LTeiieral that mothers
pour the horrid dose dowu the throats oi" tlieir iiil'ants. Their
christi'isinys and fuuerals heeouu^ mtnv pretexts for indul^'iui^
in brauily. But their mild aud pacilh' dis[)ositioii shows
itself in their druulceuuess, wliicdi is uiauifested only in Ijowl-
iii'^-, jnmi»in<4', and laUL^hinn', and in a eravinn' for more drams
uil!i hvsterie seroams, until thev fill senst-h'ssou the "ground
-w
Idle at the same time thev will suffer kiiks, ( nil's, blow;
and provocations of any kind, without the smallest irascibi-
litv. When sobi«r thev are as !>-entle as lamljs, aud the soft-
f their lan^Mum-e, added to tiieir eH'ennnate shrill tone
ness o
>f
fkabb
ds with th
»lac-able di
uu
-ht.
ot voic ', reuiarkably correspoutls with tlien- [»lac-aiile disposi-
t'lou. An amiable trait in the characttu* of the l^app is the
warmth of his iifl'ection towards his wife, his children, and
his dependents. Xothini;' can exceed the c()rdiality of their
mutual <;'reetin^-s alter sepanition. and it is t(» he feured that
liut few married men in England cttuld match ihe Lapj)
husl)and, who assured C'astren that during- thirty years of
wt'illock n(» AV(U'se word had passed between himself and his
wife than *• Loddadsham," or * My little bird.'
In s[>ite of his iatii^uini^- life, and the insuHicieiit shelter
afforded hint by his hut, the I'jall Lapp is ^-enerally vii^orous
•and healthv, and not seldom lives to a hundred vears aue.
('ontinual exercise in the open air braces his constitution. Jiis
warm clothing" protects him a^'ainst the cold ot winter, aud
his i^-eiierous meat diet nuiintains his strength. To pi event
till' scurvy, he eats the berries of the l^iui'i frirni uiiirnm, or
Ji'iiliii^ < '/i(nitii)ii(iriis, and mixes the stems of the Anj^elica
ainoULJi' his food. But his chief remedy aiiaiD^t this and
every other b(»dily evil is warm reindeei'-ljlood. Avhit-h ho
drinks with deli^^ht as a universal jianacea.
The Sko^'s Lajip, ctr Forest lia[tp, occupies an intermediuto
f^'rade between the Fjall La[-[» and the Fisher r^app, as (ishin<jf
is Ins summer oeeupatiiui, and hunting- and the tendini;" of
his rein<leer that of the winter mcuiths. His herds not bein;^
so numerous as those of the Fjall La]ip, h<' is not driven to
constant mi^-ration to j)rocure tliemfood; but they require
more care than his divided pursuits allow him t(» bestow
upon them, aud lience he inevitably descends to tlu' condi-
tiiui of the Fisher Lapp. Liistadius describes his life as on** of
i'::'' happiest on earth as a constant tdiauL!'!' between the
170
TIIK rOLAU WORLD.
a{]frccaljlo pnstinK* of fisliiiiLT and tlio ii(>l)l(^ amusiMncnt ofilic
chaso. lie is not, lilcc tlic Mountain La})]), ('Xi»os('(l to all llic
sovority of the Arctic winter, nor so poor as the Fisher
Lajt]>. He is often heard to sinj^ niuler the <j;-reen canopy of
the lirs.
The vilhijifes of the Fisher Lapps — as they are found, for in-
stance, on the bauks of Lake Eniira — afford ii by no moans
pleasino- spectacle.
About the miserable hnts, which are shajx'less masses (»f
min^'led earth, stones, and branches of trees, and scarcely
equal to the dwelliiif^-s of the wretched Fue^ians, heaps of
stinkin;^- fish and other offal taint the air with their pesti-
lential odours. When a stran|4"er approaches, the inmates
come pouring" out of their narrow <loorway, so covered with
dirt and vermin as to make him recoil with disgust. Ntit
in the least ashamed, however, of their ai)pearauce, they
approach the stran<^er and sluike his hand, accordinfjf to the
code of Lapp politeness. Aft(^r this preliminar}', he may
exi)ect the followin;^- questions : ' Is peace in the land? Ilcnv
is the emperor, the bishoj), and the captain of the district? '
The more inquisitive of the filthy troop then ask after the
home of the strangvr, and beinu; told that it is bcn-ond the
mountains, they further inquire if he comes from the lan<l
where tobacco otows. For as our imaj^iiuition loves to
wander to the sunny regions,
■\Vlii'rc tlio citron and oli'vp arc fairest of IVuif,
And till' voi(.'o of tlu> niglitingalo never is mute ;
SO the f^incy of the Lai)p conceives no greater ]>aradise than
that which produces the weed that, along with the brandy-
bottle, aft'ords him his highest luxury.
Ti.e Glutton.
Tornea Uivor.
(iiArTER XI n.
MATTiriAS ALFXANDKIl f'ASTlJKX.
Hi- l>ii'tlii)l;u'(' iinil lliv-f Stuili(>s— .Iniirnov in T.aiilainl, 1>."S — 'I'lir Iwalojoki —
Thi' JiMkf ot" Kiiiu'ii — Till' Pastor of I'lxjuki — l'"rom I{<nvaiiionii tu Kriui— Sc-
i'UkI \'(iyaiir, ISll-ll — Sttniii on tlu' W'liiti' Sen — Kctiirn to Aivliaiigcl — TIic
TiiinliMs ol' tile European Samojcdis — Mcsm — I'liivirsal I>rtaikf'iinffs — Sl(il;ii>
.liiurni'v ti) l'iistosi'r>k A Samoji'dc Tcat'lier — 'I'umlra Siurms — Alsiiulnntd
iiihl alont^ in tlu; Wilderness — I'nsfosersk — Our Traveller's i'erseeutiuns at
I stsylinsk and Isllenl^k — Tlie I'nsa — ('mssinji tlio Ural — nhdorsk — Sepond
Silii'ian .Iiiurney, ISlii— IS— Overilcwin^' of tlu' <i!>i — Surgut --lu'asru'jar^k
A::reealil(' Surprise — Turuehansk \'oyatro down the ,Ii nissii — (.'astreii's
Study at IMaehina — l'"roni Dudinka tu Tolstoi Noss— Frozen l"\'et — Jieturn
\'iiyap:e to the South- I'mzeu fast iMi tie- Jeiiis>ei- AVniidi'rful I'r. servjiticm —
•l^uruey aeross the Chinese Frontiers, and to Transliaikalia — luturn to Finland
■ I'mfessorship at llelsingfors - Death of Castn'n, ISo.j.
MATTHIAS ALEXANDER CA8TREX, wlioso intorost-
inj4" journeys form the subject of the present eliapter,
WHS born in tlie year ISl-J, at Rowanienii, a Finland villa<^e
sitnatetl about forty miles from the head of tlie Oulf of
l!t»tlinia, immediately' under the Arctic Circle; so that, of
nil men who have atttiined celebrity, probably none can
i;i
Tin: poLAi: wouij).
f
boast of a inoro nortlicrn birtliplaco. "Wliilc still n si'liolnr
at tho Ah'Ximdt'r's Collo^a' of llclsin^fors, ho rosohctl to
devote liis lite to the study of the nations of Finnish «»riyiii
(Fins, Laplanders, Sanutjedes, Ostjaks, t^e.) ; and as books
g"ave but an insuttieient account of theuj, each passiniif vejir
streny;thened his desire to visit these tribes in their own
haunts, and to learn fn »ni themselves their lan'>uaL>:es, their
liabits, and their history.
We may ima<^ine, therefore, the joy of the enthusiastic
student, whom poverty alone had hitherto prevented from
carryin<4- out the schemes of his youth, ^vhen Dr. Ehrstrom,
a friend and medical ftdlow-student, proposed to take him as
a companion, free of expense, on a tour in La[iland. No
artist that ever crossed the A1[)S on his way to sunny Italy
could feel happier than (^istren at the prospect of phnij^'iny
into the wildernesses of the Arctic zone.
On June 2.''>, 18:>8, the friends set out, and arrived on tho
30th at the small town of Muonioniska, where they re-
mained six weeks — a delav Avhich Castren put to fj'ood
« J. ~
account in learnini;' the La}>p lanj^-uajj^e from a native cat(^-
chist. At lenyth the decreasiuLj sun warned the travellers
that it was hi^'h time to (,'ontiuue their journey, if they
wished to see more of Lapland before the winter set in ; and
after havino-, Avith fjreat ditHcidty, crossed the mountain-
ridi;"e which forms the watershed between the (Julf of
Bothnia and the Polar Sea, tlu'y embarked on the romantic
Iwalojoki, where for three days and ni<j;hts the rushing-
waters roared around them. In spite of these dany-erons
rapids, they were oblii»"ed to trust themselves to the stream,
Avhich every now and then threatened to dash their frail
boat to pivices a<^'ainst the rocks. Armed with lonj>* oars,
they were continually at work during- the daytime to g-uard
a;4'ainst this peril; the niiihts were spent near a larg-e lire
kindled in the open air, without any shelter ag-ainst the rain
d
and win(
1.
The Iwalo river is, during the greater ])art of its course,
encased between high rocks ; but a few miles before it dis-
charges itself into the hirge Lake of Enara, its valley
improves into a tine grassy j)lain. 8nnill islands covered
with trees divi<le the wat,>rs, which now How more tran-
quilly : soon also traces of culture appear, and the astonished
CASTKKNS TOIR IN I.AIM.ANP.
17.1
?onrso,
it (lis-
Vi;llt\v
tniii-
mislit'il
fnivi'ilcr finds in the villiii^c of Kyrli, not wrotclnxl Liip-
liiiid huts, l)nt well-built houses of Finnish settlers, with
j^rt'eii nieii(l(»ws and corntields.
The beautiful Liike of Enara, sixty miles loiij; and forty
miles broad, is so thickly studded with islands that they
iiiive ntner yet bt-en <-ouiited. After the trayellers had spent
ii ft'W days auion;j^ the Fisher L:i]»j>s who soj(»urn on its
liinders, they proeeeded northwards to Ft/jidci, the limit of
tlu'ir expedition, and one of the centres of liajtland eivilisa-
tinn. as it boasts of a ehundi, which is served by a man of
lii^h character and of no little ability. On ac'e(M)tin'r his
cliii'^"(', this SLdf-denyinf4' priest had performed the journey
iVoin Toniea in the deiith of winter, accomi)anied by a younsj
vit'c and a female r(dati(»n of the latter, fifteen years of aire.
111' had found the parsonaye, vacated by his predecessor, a
wretched ]tnildin^% distant some fifteen miles from the near-
est Lai>[> habitation. After establishing' himself and his
iainily in this dreary tenement, he ha<l returned frou" a [las-
tnial excursion to find his home destroyed by a fire, from
which its inmates had escaped with the loss of all that they
|i(»ssessed. A miserable hut, built for the tempoi'ary shelter
111' the La[»ps who res«»rt<.'d thither for divine service, afforded
the family a refuiie for the winter. He had since contrived
tolniild himself another dwelling', in whicdi our parry found
him, after five years' residence, the father of a family, and
the chief of a happy household. Gladly would the travellers
liave remained sonu.» time longer under his hospitable roof,
l»ut the birds of passaj^e were moving' to the south, Avarnin<^
till '111 to follow their example.
Thus they set out, on Auy-ust 15, for their homeward
voyay-e, which proved no less ditHcult and laborious than the
fnrmer. At leuyth, after wandering- throuu^h deserts and
swamps — fre(piently wet to the skin, and often without food
fur many hours — they arrived at Kowaniemi. where they
embarked on the Komi river. ' With conflictiiio- feelings,'
says CiiS^cren, ' I descended its stream : for every cataract
was not only well-known to me fnun the days of my ear-
liest childhood, but the cataracts were even the only ac-
(juaintances which death had h-ft me in the place of my
Vilrth. AhuiQ: with the mournful imi>ressif»ns which the
li 'ss of beloved relations nuide upon my mind, it was de-
174
TIIK rol.All WOKI-l).
a,
li;,'lii<'ii! 1<> riMH'W my iufcrcoiirso with llic rapid strciiin jim«I
its wairrCiills — tli(»so boisterous ]ilaytV'Il«»\vs, wliirU IiikI
often l)i-(»ii'4lit uie into peril wlieii a l»oy. Now, as bet'oi'e, it
was a pleasant sport to mo to l)e hurried alon;^ hy theii-
tumultuous waters, and to be wetted by their sj>ray. The
boatmon often tried to persuade nu- to lan<l before passiii;;-
the most danj^vrous waterfalls, and decdarod that tiioy could
not l>e answerable for my safety. IJut, in spite of all their
r»>monstranees, I remained in tho boat, nor had 1 reason to
re[»eiit of my boldness, for Ife who is the steersman of all
boats •j^ranted us a safe arrival at Kemi, where our Lapland
journey terminated.' *
in IS II (.'astn'-n published a metrical translation, into the
.Swedish lani4'ua^»'e, of the ' Kalewala,' a cycle of the (ddest
poems of the Fins; and at the end of the same year pro-
ceeded on his first ^'•reat Journey to the land of the European
Samqjedes, and from thence across the n(»rthern Ural
Moimtains to Siberia. In the famous convent of St>lovetskoi,
situated on a small island in the White Sea, he hoped to find
a friendly teacher of the Samojede lan^"ua<^'e in the Archi-
mandrite Wenjaniin, who had laboured as a missionary
amon<^ that savaj^e people ; but the churlish diy,'nitary
jealously refused him all assistance, and as the tundras of
the Snmojedes are only accessible durin«^' the winter, he
resolved to turn the interval to account by a journey amon>^-
the Terslci Lap]ts, who inhabit the western shores of the
White Sea. With this view, in an evil hour of the 27tli
June, 1812, though sufferin;^- at this time from illness
severe enou^-h to have detained any less persevering traveller,
he embarked at Archan<);el, in a lar«;;-e corn-laden vessel, with
a reasonable ja'ospect of beino- landed at Tri Ostrowa in some
twenty-four hours ; but a dead calm detained him eight days',
dui'iuLf which he had no ch(»ice but to endure the horrible
stench of Russian sea-stores in the cabin, or the scorcliiiii>'
sun on deck. At len<:>'tli a favourable Avind arose, and after
a few hours' sailing- nothing was to be seen but Avater and sky.
Soon the Terski coast came in view, with its white ice-
capped shore, and Castren hoped soon to be released from
his lioatine- prison, when suddenly the wind chang^ed, antl,
'^ Iui.-<(}1 in Ld/ip/iiiK/, i\<:
CA.STKK.N S UKTl K.V T(» AllClIA.NMiKL.
175
iin Tfiisiiii,' (u u stonii, tlirt'iitt'iu'il to dasli them «ni the fliU'ri
i>rfhi' Sol»»vel/k(»i Ishimls.
• |{(»th th('fii|»tiiiM aiul thi' s^hip's cuii)[>aiiy be^Mii to tl«'si>iiir
<>r tht'ir livos ; ami jtmycrs hiiviiii^' hcoii rcsortod to in vain,
[it (.-oil jure the daiii^'iT, ^^-nieral (Irimkcinit'ss was the lu'xt
ri'suiiivc. TJie oa]»taiii, tiiidiii^' his own bi'aiidy too weak to
lirdciiiv the .stupefaction he desired, h'lt nie no peace till 1
had niven hiui a bottle of rum. After having- by dey:reeM
riiiptird its contents, he at length obtained his end, and ftdl
Th
le crew, lollowini^' his example, ilrop[»e<
le,di
d
asleej* in the cabin
dnwu one by one into their cribs, and the ship was hd't,
without guidance, to the mercy of the winds and waves. I
aloiic remained on decdc, and j^'loomily awaited the decisive
moment, lint I soon discovered that the wind was veering
to the oast, and awakening- the cai>tain from his drunken
letliar!4-v, sent him on deck, and to(dc jtossession of his bed.
Kxliausted by the dreadful scenes of the day, I soon fell into
a deep slumber; and when I awoke the following- niornin;^, I
t'ound myself ayain on the eastern coast of the White 8ea, at
the loot of a hi'di shelterinu* rock- wall.'
Continued bad weather and increasin<^' illness now forced
i'astren to <;-ive up his projecti'd visit to the Lapps, and
wlien he returned to Archan<4vl, both his health and his
I'lU'se were in a sad condition. He had but tifteen rouble's
ill his pocket, but fortunately he foiind some Samojecle bey-
'_'iirs still poorer than himself, (nie oi' whom, for the reward
nt' an occasional i;"lass of brandy, consented to become at once
his host, his servant, and his private tutor in the Samojede
laiit^ua^v. In till! hut and society of this sava<^v, lie ])assed
the remainder of the summer; his health improved, and
Soon also his finances chaiif^ed "wonderfully for the better —
the (Jovernment of Finland liaviie.;- «^n'anted him a thousand
silver roubles for the prosecution of his travels. With a
liuht heart he continued his linnuistie studies until the end
of November, when he started with renewed enthusiasm for
the land of the European Samojedes. These immense tundras
extend from the White Sea to the Ural mountains, and are
btiimded on the north by the Polar 8ea, and on the south by
till- rcf^'ion of forests, which here reaches as high as the
latitudes of 00° and 07^
170
Tin: I'oi-Aii wtun n.
'J'lic liU'^t' river Vfl.s.-lioiM tlividfs tlifsc tlrciirv wastes into
two uiit'iniiil liiilvcs, whilst scanty j»(»|»iilati<Mi, as may easily
be ima'^niied, is siiiik in the deepest harliarisiii. It euiisists
of iiniiiadie Sainojedcs, and <d' a tew Jiussiaiis, \vhi» inhaliif
some niiseraide settU'ineiits aloiiy: the <aviit stream and
its tributary livers.
To hiirv iiimself Ibi- a wlmle vear in tliesc nielancholv
deserts, ("astrt'-ii left Andiaiiyel in N(tvend)er, IH I2. As far
as Mesen, :»l'> versts north of Ar(han;j:i'l, the scanty po[>ula-
tiou is Knss and Christian. At Mesen civilisation ceases,
and further north the Samojede retains for llie most part,
Avith his primitive habits an<l lany;na;jfe, his heiitJien faitli—
havin;4". in fact, borrowed not liiuL;' from occasional intercourse
■with civilised man but the means and practice of drmikeu-
iiess. Castrt-n's lii'st care, on his arrival at l^^esen, was t(»
look for a Samojede interjiretcr and tciiclier: l)ut he was as
unsuceessful here as at Somsha, a village some forty versts
further oii,when^ drunkenness was tlio order of the day. lie
took the Uiost tem}>erat<: person he could tind in all Somsha
into his service, but even this moderate man would, accordini,'
to our ideas, have been accouuted a perfect drunkard. He
now resolved to try the fair sex, and en^-ayed a female
toaclier, but she also could not remain S(»ber. At k'uyth a
man was introduced to liim as the most U'arned person of
the tundra, and at first it seemed as if he had at length
found what he wanted ; but after a few hours the Samojede
bef,Mu to L^'ct tired of his numerous questions, and declared
himself ill. Ife threw himself upon the floor, -wailed and
lamented, and be^-fjfed Oastren to have pity on him, until at
leny^th the incensed j)hil(do<^'ist turned him out-of-doors.
Soon after, he found him lyiu'^ <lead drunk iu the snow,
before the ' Eh^phant and Castle ' of the i)lace.
Thus obliged to look for instruction elsewhere, Castrcn
resolved to travel, in the middle of winter, to the Kussian
villap:o of Pnstosersk, at the mouth of the Petschora, where
the fair annually attracts a, inimber of Samojedes. Durlii;^'
this sledjjfe-jonrney of 700 versts, he had to rest sometimes
in the open air on the storm-beaten tundra, and sometimes
in the rick'.>ty tent of the Samojede, or in the scarcely less
wretched hut of the Russian coh^nist — Avhere the snow
sA\it>.ii;iu: i.M\ i: iti' iimMi:.
177
)ii'lli'tlMf I' I tlll'Mll^'ll 111 • iTi'vii-"s (if till' Willi. wll'Ti- I 111" ll.lini'
of ill" li.;-lil tiicki'i-cil ill til' wiml. ;i!i.| :i (jiick rlii,il< i.j" v...!!'-
slviii ;in'>!'.l('il (III" oulv [>\'>\ '.'tiMii ii.'-iiii^t llii' i>iriTiii:^'' cmM i.|'
t!i" All-tic wiiitcf.
Fur this in'diioiis ♦oiii-, t\vi> sIciIm-i-s, witli lom* n'iinli'rr
;iM 1 'lli'il til Ciicll, Wt'fc ciilldiivcd - tlic tr;l\rllcl''s >li'(|<^'(', wliit li
\v:i> cnvi Ti'il, ln'iiiLj* iiitiidii'd to mi iincdvt'n'ij oiif (iccujiit'il l»y
tli.' u'lii'lt'. 'J'lit' K'liiiiii 'riiiidni sti'i'lclM'tj (III lM'|i»rt' tln-iii, as
tjii'v tli'W iiloiiL,''- iiliiidst as iiaKi'd as tin' M'a, of wliicli tliry
siw till' inari;iii in llif cast ; aial liinl iml tlif wind Ih'It and
tliiTi' driven away tlif snow wliicdi llcavon in its nirrcv strews
ii\i'r this i^Iooniy land, they niiiiht have liefii in dnuht on
wliirli I'li'meiit llicy were IravflliiiL;'. Daily, from tiiin' lo
liiiii'. soiiic dwarf" lirs inadi' their ai»iicarantr, or clunii'S of
low willows, which i^'cncrally denote the |ircsen(e of sonic
littK' hroolc slowly windin;^' Ihronuh the Mat linidra.
The vilhine of \ess, on the north const, was the (ii'st,
li;iliin^'-i>laee, a)id here (*asln'n llaltcre<l himsi'If he Imd at
l.'iiuth fonnd what liis heart desired, in the person of ;i
Saiiiujrdc teacher who knew liiisslan. and was gifted with a
(.•Icarcr head than is nsuiilly ]iosscssed hy his race.
• The man was conscions of his superiority, and while actiii;;'
;is a ]irofoss(»r l(»(dced down with contempt njx'n his weaker
liriihivn. Once, some other Samoj'edcs vciitni'inL;" to currecL
Hiie of his transhiti(nis, he coniniaiah'd them to ho silent,
tilling- them they were not learned. F tried Ity all possiMo
lai ai:s to seenre the services of this Saniojeth' phenomenon.
1 spoke kindly with him, I jtaid him well, ^avo him every
iliiy his aliowaneo of brandy, and never once forhad him to
uv! ilrnnk when ho felt inclined to do so. \'ct, in spite of
:il! my cndeavonrs to pleas*% he fell unhai>py, and si|L;hed for
til" liberty of the tnndra. " Tlion art Kind, and I love thee."
>;iid ho one day to me, " Imt I cainiot endure conlinencnl.
Ill' Ihcreforo inereifnl, and _u;ive me my fi-eedom.*'
* [ now increased his daily pay and his rations of brandy,
>i'iit fur his wife and child, treated his wif«' also with
lirandy, and did all I conld to dispel the melancholy of tin*
>^aniojede. By these means I induced him to remain a few
'^'^'■y^ lonj:;'cr with nio.
" While I was constantly ocenpyin;,' him, the wife was busy
N
178
Tllli I'OLAU WOULD.
.sewing" SanKuJtMlc (licsses, aiul suiiu'tiiiK'S 'assisted licr 1ms-
Liuid in liis translatioMs. I often li(?ar(l bcr sig-hing- dooplv.
and having- asked lor llie iviison, slie burst into ti'ars, iiii<l
answered tliat slie grieved for lier Imsband, who was tlnis
iiM]»risoned in a room. " Tliy husband," was iny reply, "is
not worse olf than thyself. Tell nie, Avhat do you think of
your own position 9 " " I do not think of myself — I am sor-
rowful for my husband," was her ingenuous reply. At
length both the Imsband and the wife begged me so earnestly
to set them at liberty, that I allowed them to depart.'
On the way from rjoscha to Pustosersk, after Castreu had
once more vainly endeavoured to discover that rxni aris, a
SamojiHle teacher, he became thoroughly acquainted Avilh
the January snowstorms of th(^ tundra: 'The wind arosi'
al)out noon, and blew so violtMitly, that we could not see the
reindeer Ijefore our sledges. The roof of my vehich', wldeh al
iirst had afforded me some protection, was soon carried away
by the gale. Anxious abtmt my fate, I questioned my guides,
whenever they stopped to brush off the snow which had aeeii-
nmhited upon me, and received the invariable answer, "We
do not know where we are, and see nothing." A\"e proceedcil
step by step, now following one direction, now another, until
at length we reached a river well known to the guides. Tlic
leader of the iirst sledge hurried his reindeer down the pre-
cipitous bank, and drove away upon tlu; ice to seek a more
convenient descent ; but as he did not return, the other guide
likewise left me to look after his companion, and thus 1 wa>
kept waiting for several hours on the tundra, without know-
ing v.here my guides had gone to.
'At Iirst I did not even know that they had left me, and
when L became aware of the fact, I thought that they li;iil
abandoned me to my fate. T will not attempt to doscrilic
my sensations ; but my bodily condition was such, that w.icn
the cold increased witji the ai)i)roacli of night, I Avas sei/ol
1^.11,
w
ith a vit)lent fever. I thought mvlast hour was come, and
[>re[>ared for my jiaa'ney to another Avorld.'
The reap[)earance of the guides relieved Castreu of liis
anxiety, and when the little party reaehed some 8amojedi'
huts, the eldest of the guides knelt down at the side of our
traveller's sledge, and expressed his joy in a prayer to (_Jod;
A .^iXOWSTOHM OS TIIK TUXDIfA.
17!)
I'S, iUld
Ls thus
ly, - is
liiiik ol
;iui sor-
ly. At
iriiestly
:vru liiitl
:ecl -Nviili
id 11 rose
t see til''
which at
iccl iiway
ly o-nidos,
uid aeou-
^•er, "Wo
)rocee(lcil
lev, until
's. The
the pre-
c ;i mow
u'V o'uidi'
us I ^va^
ut kuow-
lue. aiul
they had
deseril"'
"luit AV.lOll
kis sei/e'l
louie, ami
leu of his
f^janiojedi'
k' of our
to Cio<l;
l),.nn-iiio'('jistreii to join him iu his thanksgivings, ' tor He. and
hot I, has this ni;^'ht saved thee.'
The next nioniini^', as the weather seemed to improve, an<l
tlie road (aloni;- the liidii;'a river) to the next Itussian set-
tlement was easy to find, Castren resolved to i)ursue his
jduniey. ' But the storm onee more arose, and heeame
so dreadfully violent that I could neither l.)reathe. nor keep
my eyes o})en ati'ainst the' wind. The roariu^- of the ^alo
stupefied my senses. The moist snow wetted me durino'
the day. and the ni;^-ht converted it into iee. Half frozen, I
arrived aftt-r miduiLi-ht at the settlement. The fati^-ues
of the journey had been such that [ could scarcely stand; I
iiad almost Icjst my consciousiu'ss, and my si^ht had suffered
so much from the wind, that I repeatedly ran with my fore-
head ai^-aiust tlie walk The roaring' of the storm continually
rooimded iu mv ears for manv hours after.'
A few days later, Castren arrived at Pustosersk, inidouht-
eiUy one of the dreariest places in the world. AVith scarcely
a ti-ace of arboreal veuvtation, the eve, durin<>- the u'reater
jiart of the year, rests on an iutermiiuible Maste of snow,
wheie the Cold winds are almost perpetually raij'in^'. Tim
storms are so viohmt as not sekk>m to carry away the I'oofs
ef the huts, and to prevent the wretched inhabitants from
tV'tcliiiii;- water and fuck In this Xorthern Eden our inde-
fiitin'ahle ethnolog'ist tarried several months, as it afforded
liiiii an excellent opportunity l\»r C(.>ntiuuino- his stiidies of
the Iano-ua<;'e, nuinners, and reli^-ion of the Sanutjedes, who
coiue to the fair of Pust<xsersk during" the winter, to barter
their reindeer-skins for Hour and other commodities, und at
tlie same time to indulge in their favourite beverage — brandy.
At liMigth the iSamojedes retired, the busy season of the
plare was evidently at an end, and C*astrt'n, having no further
iudiKH'ment to renuiin at Pustosersk, left it for the village of
I stsylmsk, situated ]')0 versts higher u[> the Petschora,
wh-Te he hoped still to find some straggling* Saniojedes.
The road to Ustsylmsk leads through so desolate a region,
that, according to tlu; priests of the neighbourhood, it can-
not have been originally created by God with the rest of the
v.orld, bnt nnisi have been formed after the deluge. Near
I stsylmsk (Oo*^ oO' N. hit.) the country im}>roves, as most of
N -2
ISO
TllH i'Ol.AU WOHl.D.
tho nortliorn troos <,n'ow about tlio ])laoo ; Init, imfortiinatoly,
a similar praise eanuot bo awarded to its iuliabitants, wlioiii
Ciisti'(Mi iuuixl to bo the iiiost brutal ami ob.stiuate Raskol-
iiiks (<»r seelarians) ho had ever seen. "Without in the least
carinu' for the Ten Connnandnieuts, an<l indnl^-iuy in everv
vice, these absurd fanatics fancied themselves better than
the rest of mankind, because they made the si^'u of tht;
cross with the thund> and the two last iinu'ers, and stood for
hours to!4('ther before an iniaL;"e in stupid conti.'mplation.
Our homeless traveller sotni became the object of their
persecutions; they called him 'wizard,' 'a poisoner of
rivers and wells,' and insulted him during* his walks. At
len^jth tluw even attempted to take his lift', so that ln'
thou^•llt ln'st to retreat to Ishemsk, on the Ishma. a hvnidrcd
versts farther to the south. But, mifortunately, his l)a<l
re})ut:itioi; ha<l preceded him, and altliouj^'h tlie Isprawuik
(or parish otiicial) and his wife warmly took his part, tin'
pectple eontinued to reg'ard him Avith suspicion.
Towards the end of June, Castren ascended the Petsclmia
and its chief tributary, tiie Uusa, as far asthe viilag-e of Kolwii.
Avhcre he spent tlie renuiinder of the summer, <l('cply bnricil
as usual, in .Samojede studies. Beyond Kolwa. which he !< It
on Se[»tember Id for Obdorsk, there is not a sinu'le seitl'-
nieiii ;il(>n;4' th<> I'usa and its tributaries.
As he ascended the I'iver, the nu'adows on its low l)anks
ap[>e;ired coloured with the n'l'ey tints of autumn. Sonic-
times a wild animal started from its lair, but no vestit:''' ef
man was to l.)e seen. C'onntless tlocks of wiM dncLs ami
uci'se passed over the traveller's head, on tluir wav sontli-
wards.
After many a tedious delay, caused l>y stoi'uis and contnivv
A\ inds. ( 'astn''!) rea(die(l (on Scjiteniber 27) a wret(died lint,
about I'orty vei'sts from the Ural, where he was olili|4'ed |c
wait a whtdi' month, with fourteen other ])ersons, until th''
snow-track over the mountains became practicable for slcd'jcs.
The t'>tal wiint of every comfort, the bad com[)any, the pci'-
petnal rain, and the dreary as]>ect of the ctauitry, made lii>
prolon;4"ed stay in this miserable tiuiement alnmst unbearable.
At leuLith. on October 'i-^, he was able to depart, and "ii
November -■), he saw the Ural Mountains raisiim- their snew-
TIIH HANKS or Till-: Olil.
isl
cnjipod snininits 1o the slcios. ' Tlio wouiluu' is mild,' .sjiid liis
S;iiiit)j(Ml(Mlrivcr, 'and tlutii art fori miato, but the Ural can Ix;
vci-y dittV'rt'iit.' He thou descril:)t'd the dreadful storms that
iMui' over th(> houudary-ehalu which se[)arates Kiu'ope from
Asia, aud Imw they luvcipitate stones and roi-ks tVom the
iiiniuitain-tops.
Tliis tiuie the dreiidcd pass was erossod iu safety, aud ou
November U, Isj:*, Castron arrived at Obdor^k, on the ()bi,
cxluiusted iu strru^-th and sluittered iu hcaltb, but yi'i de-
liLilited to iiud himself iu Asia, the laud of Jiis early dreams.
(»liilor>k — the uiost u<.)rtherly eolouy iu Westirn Siberia,
;iiid, as univ easilv be iniau'intMl, utterly dellcieut iu all that
(Mil b,' iuterestiun* to au ordinary traveller — was as much as
;i inivei'sity to the zealous stndeut, for several thonsauds of
Sim; ijcdt's and Ostjaks ei,)Ug're«4'ate to its fiir from hundreds
u\' vi'i'sts ai'ouiid.
No better place could possibly be fouud for tlu' prosecution
el' liis researches; lint the (h'phn'able coudillnu of his health
dill net allow him to remain as loujj; as be would have de-
sii'id at this fouutain-head of knowledLis'. He was thns
eliliLi'ed to leave t'< >r Tobolsk, ami to return, iu March 18 It,
liy the slioi'test road to Finland.
hi the tollowiu'.;' snmmer (Islo'i. we aL^'.iin liiid hlin on the
Ii;iii1\'s ol' the Irtvsch aud the Olii. ])bui^'ed in ( Jstjiik' studies
with rt'uewed eneru'v aud enthusiasm. Alter h:ivinLi' so-
journed tor several weeks at Toropkowa, a small island at
tlie c(»!i(hieuce of these two mi^^'hty streams, he asceiideil the
Olii in July as far as Sui'p'ut, where he arrived in the be-
L^iiiniiiM- of Au^'ust.
In c(»use(juence of the overliowin^' of its \v;iters. the river
liid s]»reiid into a boundless lake, whose nionoteny was only
r 'lieved, from time to tinu.', by some small wooded island or
s'liie inundated villa^'e. The risint^- of the stream had
sjii'ead miserv fir aud wide, for manv Ostiak tiimilii's bad
h rii oblio-cd to abandon their huts, and to seek a refiiu'e in
till' tbri'sts. Those who had horses and cows bad tin' Lii'eatc'st
'lillicnlty to keep them alive ; aud as all the nn-adows were
i!;.iler water, aud the autuuui, with its ni;^ht -frosts, was
:ilie;nly approachin<^-, there was scarcely any hope of uuikiug'
li;i\ for the winter.
182
TIIK roLAll WOULD.
As Caslivii [H'oceecled on his jonnicy, llu; low baulks cf
tlio rivor rose uljovo tlio waters, and a]»i)oar('cl in all tlicir
wild and o](»(»niy desolation. The uinul)er of inliabitanis
al<tnf^ the Obi is ntterly inyij^'iiilieant when compared Avilli
the wide extent of the coniitry; and as huntin}^' and fishiiiLi,'
are their ehicf oceni)ations, n<»thin<j;' is done to snbdno tlie
wilderness. The weary eye sees but a dnll snccession of
moors, willow-bnshes, dry heaths, and firs on the hij^her
•grounds. Near every ilonrishing," tree stands another, bearing-
the marlvs of decay. The yonnj^ jjfrass is hemmed in its
<iTowth by that of the previons year, which even in July
^•jves the meadow a dull asli-<4Tey colour. Cranes, wild
<lucks, and ^eese are almost the only livinf^ creatures to be
seen. Fi'om Siljarshi to Snrj^'ut, a distance of 200 versts.
there are but three Kussian villa|>"es ; and the Ostjaks, who
form the main part of the population, ♦^'•enerally live aloni;
the tributary rivers, or erect their summer huts on tlic
smaller arms of the Obi, where they can make a better use
of Iheir very imperfect fishinj,^ implenients than on tlic
[•rincipal stream.
Snr<4-ut, once a fortress, and the chief town of the Cossack
conquerors of 8il)eria, is now reduced to a> few miseral>!i'
huts, scattered amono- the ruins f»f rejtcated con Hay-rat ions.
Here Castren remained till September 21, occupied witli
th(> studv of the various dialects of the nei<ihbourin<>' Osiiak
tribes, and then ascended the Obi as far as IS^arym, a distanci>
of SOO versts. Most of the fishermen had already retired
from the banks of the river, and a deathlike stillness, rarelv
interrupted by an Ostjak boat rapidly shooting- throuo-li flic
stream, reii;-iied over its waters.
Fortunately the Aveather was fine, at least dm-iuo- Hie first
days of the journey ; and the o-reen river-baidvs, the birds
sin;4'in<>' in the trees, and the suidieams {^dancinn" <'>ver tlic
wide mirror of the Obi, somewhat enlivened the monotoiiv "t
the scene.
After havinjjf enjoyed at Narym a remnrhihhi wihl 8iberi;iii
winter, as )u> rmirs /mil hfrn /'rozcii to (hatli^ and havinu'
increased his knowledo-e of the Ostjak dialects, C'astr.'ii
]m>ceeded in Ihe fcdlowino- sju-ina-, by way of Tomsk, te
Krasnojarsk, on tla^ Jenisei, where he arrived in A))ri1 18 1<!.
I
u X i:\ 1 • \:c\' !•: i > i • i ; 1 1: x i ) 1. 1 x i:ss
1 ii-.i
:iii(l was wolo(»int'tl in a niosf n^Tecablt^ aiitl niicxpoftcd
inaniitT. Ft will l)t> lUMiicinbcrrd lliat duriiij^' liis stay at
Isheiiisk, in the tundra of the Saniojcdos, he found warni-
hi'arted friends and [H'oteetors aj^'ainst the insane l)i<^-oirv of
the Raskoluiks in the Isprawruk and his youn;^- and aniiahle
wife. Of the latter, it nii«4'ht truly be said that she was like
a flower born to bhish unseen in the desert. l!eniarkably
eloquent, she was no less talented in expressinj^' her thoughts
Ity writin<^'; and yet she was only the dauf^hter of a serf who
liad been exiled to Krasnojarsk, and had spent a ^-reat i)art
of a small property, aequired by industry and economy, in
the education of his g-ifted daughter. The Isprawnik, a
yenng Pole of insinuating manners, having gained her affec-
tions, she had accompanied him to Ishemsk as his wiff.
From what Castren had told her thre(> years since about
his future plans, she knew that he would probably arrive
aliout this tinu' at Krasn(»jarsk, and had writti-n a letter,
wliieh reached its destination oidy a few hours before him.
It wa-j to her father, earnestly begging him to [n\\ evt'ry
attention to the homeless stranger. The feelings of (^istren
iiKiy easily be imagined Avhen the old man knocked at his
(Inor, and brouirht him these friendlv greet ini>s I'loni a dis-
t;nice of (),0()(» versts.-^
But his stay at Krasnojarsk was not of long duration, for
lie was impatient to proceed northwards, for the purpose of
lii'coming acquainted with tlu' tribes dwelling along the
•Iciiisei, after having studied their brethren f)f the Obi.
I'rom June till the end of July, his literary pursuits detained
him at Turuchansk, wlun'e, in the vicinity of the Arctic
t'ircle, he had much to suffer from the heat and llie nios-
iiuitoes. Tn the beginning of August, the signs <if approiich-
iiig winter made their appearance, the cold north-wind swept
ii'.vay the leaves from the trees, the fishermen retired to tlie
ueiids, and the ducks and geese prepare<l to migrate to the
south. And now Oastren also took leave of Turuchansk —
nut however, like the birds, for a more sunny region, but to
hiiry himself still deeper in the northern wilds of the Jenisei.
l!el(i\v Turuchansk, the river begins to flow so languidly, that
'* Tlif vcr^t is Mli'iut tlirro-fiftlis of a niil<
1S4
Till-: I'OLAU WOKI.I).
when flic wind Is contrary, the bo.ti iimst be tlriiL,'L;v<l iil<>ii<4
by tl'>i;'s, and advain'cs no more tliaii from five to ten vt'ist^
(luring- a- wliolc day. Thus tlie travdlfr lias full tiiuf to
notice the \vill(»\vs on the Iclt banlc, and the firs on Ihe ri^hl:
fhe ice-ldocks, surviviiif^' memorials of the last wintci', whit li
ihe spring* iiumdations have left hero and there on the bank-;
of the vast stream ; and the countless troops of wild birds that
fly with htud clamour over his head.
Abdut ol)-"* vcrsts below Tnrucliansk is situated Placliina,
the fishing-station of a small tribe of ^amojcdcs, anmn^-
whom (Aistrcn tarried three weel<s. lie had taken }i(»ssessio!i
of th(> liisf of the three huts of which the ]>lace consisted,
but (>ven this would have been jierl'ectly iuiolernble to any
one but our zealous etlnio]o<4'is!. Into his stmly tln' da_\ -
lij^'ht jx'aelrated so s[)arin;4'Iy lhv<>u;4h a small hole in the
wall, that lie was ofien oblii^'eil to write by the liyht of a
resinous torch in the middle of (he day.
The flame flickerinti' in the wind, which blew through a
thousand crevicts, affected his eves no less si'Verelv than
tl
le smoK"
wliicli at the sanu' time rem
lered
resi>
irati
nil
diflicult. Altliou;L:'h the roof luul bi.'eu rt,'j)aired, yet duiinL:'
evtn*y stronj^" rain — and it rained almost ]»er]ietually — he was
o])lio'(j(l to ])ack up his papers, and to protect himself fV<ia
the wet as if he had been in the open air. From this
delit^'htfid residence Oastren, still pursuing' his study of tlie
Samojede <lialects, procei'(led down the I'iver to Dudiidca. and
finally, in Xovi'iubcr. to Tolstoi ^^'oss, whose pleasant climate
nniy be jnd^'ed of l»y the fact tinit it is situated in tl,"
latituili' of 71". This last voya^'owas performtMl in a • liaLk"
or cldse fsled<4'e, covei'ed with reinih'cr-skins. The teiliiaisiu .->
ot henii;' convevtM
1 lil
ce a cori»S(^ in a
V
dark
d
c and narrow iicx.
induced him to exchan^-e the ' balok ' for an open sled^'e: bi;!
'"le iVee/ino' of his feet, of his fiu'^'ers, and of part <»f his face,
soon causetl him to repent of his temerity. As somi as tliis
• cident was iliseovered at the next station, C'astren t'ltpt
hack a;4ain iido his prison, and was heartily >j;hu\ when, aft' i'
a nine-<lavs' conlinement, he at lenu'th arrive<l at Tobii i
X
O:-
A\
ihiidi he foiuid to consist of four Avretched hui-
ii,
Here a^•ain he spent several weeks studvini'' by torchli^l
for the sun had nni-le his last appearance in Xovemlur
FOKTl'NATi: KKSCIK FROM I'KRII-
1S5
|l(illS11i'.-S
iiinl tilt' diiy was rciluci'd to n faint ^liniiiit'viuu- a< noon. \\\
January wc find him on liis rclurn-voyap' to Turucliaiisk, a
)ilai't' wliicli, tliou^'li not vciT cliarniin^' in itsclt", a[>[t<'ai't>(l
ili'liuf'itfnl to C*astivu after a six-niontlis' ri'siduiic*' in tlio
tiiii(li"as beyond the Arctic t'irclo.
Tnrueliansk can boast at least of seeing' some da^liL^■ht at
)f the
d tl
d
ith
all seasons oi ilie year, an»l this may he enjoyeu even within-
doors, lor Tiirucliansk possesses ii(» less than i'oiir holies
witli i^'lass windows. Lnnn'lnj^ to ivaeh tliis comparatively
sunny place, (.'astr»'n, a;4'ainst his usual custom, resolved to
travel day and uin'ht without sto]»i)inL;-, l»ul his iiii[»atieiice
wfllnii4'h ]»roved fatal to him. ]!is Saniojedc o'nide had not
]/( iccivcd in the dark that the waters of the Jcni-i'i, (,V('r
wliirli they were travcjlinu', had oo/rd tliroUL;']! fissures in the
iir. iind inundati'd llic siiilaiM' of tlie river far and wiile.
Tliii.s he drove into tlie water, whii-h of courso \vas rapidly
^■M;|^•t■;llin^■ : the reiiidt'iU" Were uuabie to drau' I lie sIciIl;'*' ba(;k'
ii_;';iiii upon the laud, and Castrt'ii sturk fast on tlic river,
will) tlie a^'iveable prospect of lieiiiLi' fro/.eii to death. l''rom
tliis imminent dan^•el■ lie was rescued by a wonderful cir-
iMiiustauce. Tictters havini^' ari'ivi'tl from the Ini[ii'rial Aca-
(Iniy of St. PelersbiirL;". a courier had Itet n des[iatehed from
Turuchaiisk to convey tiiem to C'asiiv'n. Tliis coui'ier for-
1 uuately roachi'd him Avhile he was in this iierilous situation,
lh'l|ied him on laiul, and conducted him to a Samojeiie hut,
wiiei'i' he vras able to warm his stitfened limbs.
After such a journey, we caiuiot wonder tiiat. on arriving*
ill I'liruchansk. he was so tormented \vitli rheumatism and
1e:.tli;udie as to be oldi^'ed to rest there si'\er;il days. \\'itli
Sere joints and an acliin<j;" body, he slowly [iroeeedcd to
.I'iiiseisk. where he arrived on AjU'il :!, b'~!|7. in a wretched
state ot' health, which howe\ ei' lia«l not iiiterrupted his ( )st jalc
studies on the way. I r.ii'idly Li'lauce over his >iibse(jiieiit
ti'av'ds. as they are but a rejtetition of the same [irivalions
iiiid the same hardshiiis. ;ill (dieerfully sustained i'i>v the h.ivo
ef knowled^•e. Havinn' somewhat recruited his strength at
.leiiiseisk. lie crossed the Sajan mountains to ^isit some
Saniojedes beyond the Russian frontier - a jiuiriiey which,
h'sides the usual fatiu'ues, iiivtdved the a<lditional risk (»f
hi'iiio' arresti'd as a spy by the Chinese authorities— and the
1«G
TlIK I'OLAU WOKF.I).
year after lie visited Transbaikalia, \o make iii(|iiiries ainonj^-
the Btiriat priests about tlu^ ancient history of Liberia.
Havinfj thus accomplished his task, aud thorou^'hlj' in-
vesti«i-ated the wild nations of the Finnish race, from the
confines (A' the Arctic Sea to the Altai — a task Avhieh cost
liini his health, and the best part of his enerf;"ies -he longed
to breathe the air of Lis native country. But neither the
pleasures of home, nor a professorship at the University oi"
Helsiu'i^foi's, richly earned by almost superhuman exertions,
were able to arrest the <:irerms of disease, which journeys such
as these could scarcely fail to plant even in his (trifjinally
robust cc»nstitution. After lingerinjjf some years, he died
in 1855, universally lamented by his countrymen, who justly
mourned his early death as a national loss.
The Soushk.
I' I
*••■ *!^-
m
Sarr.ocdC3 and thcr D'-vcl'mt^:-;.
CHAPTER XIV.
■i^:
THE SAMOJEDES.
riiiir l!;ii'l',irism- N'liiii. ur Jililieniiili.uTtj.' — Sli:iniauisin — Siiniojodo Idols Sja-
c!;ii ll;ilic 'riu' 'I'.'iclrlitsius, or Sjiirits — 'I'lip Tiiililics, or Sorcfna's 'riu>ir
|ii.-< Tlicir liivi)i'':itiiiiis — Thrir coujiiviiiff Tricks — IJcvoroiK't' piiiil to llio I). 'ml
— A Sainoj.cli^ ()Mth — Appearaiico of tlic Samojedos — Tlnir Dnss— A Saiiiojidi-
IMli' — Cliaracttr of the Samojodcs— Tlieir decroasiiiiX Nuint.icrs — Traditions of
aiii'iciit lliToos.
rpiTE 8iiriioio(los, the noi<^'libour.s of the Liiphindeis, arc still
I t'uvthor roiinn't'd from eiviHscd .society, imd |>liiiif>-ed in
«'V*'ii deeper barbiirism. The wildest tundras and woods of
Xnvtliern Russia aud Western Siberia are the liouio of the
SiDiiojede. With his reindeer herds lie ■wanders over tht^
tiaketl wastes, from the eastern coast of the ^\"llite Sea to
the banks of the Chatano-a, or hunts in the boundless forests
lu'tween the Obi and the Jenisei. His intercourse with the
Russians is confined to his annual visits at the fairs of such
miseralde settlements as Obdorsk and Pustosersk, where, far
from improvinp," by their company, lie but too often becomes
tlio prey of their avarice, and learns to know them merely as
• lii'ats and oppressors. Protestant missionaries have Icmj:^
18S
Tin: I'OLAlt WOULD.
r
siiiec br<>U|4'lit iiisiriu-iioii i<> tlif Ti:i]»liiii(lt'r's Imt, l>ut tin'
lUiijority (if the lus.s Dd'iiiiuito Saiiiojcdt's slill inlliL'r(> 1<» IIh'
liToss suixn-stitions of their fatlicrs. Tin v lu'liovc in ii Sii-
lirciiit.' Hciii!;- — Nniii, or Jilibciiiiibiicrtjc — who n'si(h's in lln'
air, ami, like the Jupiter of okl, semis dowii tlmmlei- ami
li;H'lilniii<^', rain ami snow; and as a proof that soiuethini^- of
a pootie fancy is to be fciund even anionic' Die most savaiie
nations, they call the rainbow ' the hem of his ^•arnieni.' As
this deity, however, is too far removed from them to leave
them any hope of •^•ainin*^ his favour, they never think of
otl'erinp;' liim either prayer or saerifiee. Ibit, besides Ninu,
there are a <4'reat many inferior spirits, or idols, who directly
interfere in human coneenis — eaprieions beiuii's. who allow
themselves t<» 1h' inthienccd by olfc ring's, or yi.dd to maj^'irnl
incantations; and to tln'se, theri'f<ii'i', the Sann>jedi' has re-
course when lie f.'els the necessity of invokiuL;" the aid or
averting" the wrath of a hiii'her I'ower.
The (diief of all Saniojedo id<.»ls is in tin- island of Way-
li'atz— a cold antl nielancholv Delos — where it was alreadv
found by ("Id ]»arentz. This idol is a niei'e Idock of stone,
with its head taiterinu' to a point. It has thus lieen
fashioned, not bv a mortal ai'tist, but bv a iilav ul' nature.
After this (iri'-'inal the Sanioicdes have forme<l inanv idols of
stone or wood of various sizes, which they call ' Sja<]u'i,' froia
their pfissessin^- a human physio^'nomy {''J'l). These idols
thtn' dress in reindeer-skins, and ornament them with all
sorts of coloured ra^'s. Ihit a resendilance t(» tlu' huni;ni
form is not the necessary attribute of a Samojedo idol ; iniy
irreo-ularly-shaped ston*! or tree may be thus distint^aiisheil.
If the object is small, th(.^ savat4"e cari'ies it everywhere about
with him, carefully wra})ped up; if too cumbersome to Im'
trans]iorted, it is resi'rved as a, kind of national deity. A>;
■with the Ostjaks, each Saniojede tribe has in its train a
peculiar sledi4'e— the Ilahen^an — in which the househoM
idols (or llahe) are placed. One of these Penates protects
the rein<leer, another watches over tlu^ health of his wor-
shippers, a third is the f;-uardian of their connubial happi-
ness, a fourth takes care to till their nets with fish. "When-
ever his services are required, the Halie is taken from his
rejxisitory, and eri'cted in the tiMit or on the pasture-j^roniKl,
l.ut llli'
' to 111.'
II ii Su-
's ill lilt'
(lev iiiiil
tliiiiL; of
t SilVii;ji'
lit; As
lo IcilVi'
lliiiik of"
L's Nmii,
(lirci-tly
lli> illlow
lllll^^'irill
i' luis rc-
e a'nl ov
of Wiiy-
iilrradv
III' stdlll',
us IxM'll
uiitur(\
jddls (if
i," i'lMiii
so idols
Willi all
luiiiiaii
(il ; any
;-uisli»'(l.
'i' al)fiit
10 to 111'
ity. As
train a
lliscllo'il
prott'rts
Hiis \V(ir-
hapi
AVI
ti-
icn-
rom ins
li«-niun(l.
SAM (J.) HI IK NKi lloMAMV
is;i
in {ill' wonil or on tlif ri\('r"s lt:inl<. His iiioiitii is tlu'ii
>mi'ai'i'd with oil or Mooil, mikI ii dish with li>h or (li'sli is set
lii'Tofi' him, ill lln' full t'.\|M'c*tution that his i^-ooil otliccs will
amply i't'i»ay the savoury repast. AVIicn his aid is no lono-ci-
iH'ccssary, he is put aside without any t'nrthcr cerciiioiiy,
ainl as little noticed as the M!i(h>iinu of the 2sea[»olitau
lisherman after the storm has eeased.
The llahe. or idols, are very couveuieiit <»hjeets of revei'-
e;i(e to the Samoj.'de, ;is he can consult them, or iisk their
;i-'<lstance, without Ijcin^- initiated in the secrets of ma^'ic ;
wliile the 'J'adehtsios, or invisiMe spirits, Avhicli eveiywhen!
Imver ahout ill the air, and are ni(»re inclined to injure than
to henelit man, can only he invoked hy a Tadihe, or sorcerer,
A\lio. like the ('uuiiean Sihyl, Avorks himself into a state of
ci-!;i(ic frenzy. When his services are reipiired, the fii-st,
(■;iii' of the 'I'adihe is to invi'st himself with his ina^'ical
iiiantle- a Iviiul of shirt made of reindeer leathei-, imd
lii'Uimed with red cloth. The seams are covereil in a ^iniiliM"
iiiMiiiier, and the shoulders are dt.'corated with epaeli'ttes (.f
the same j^'aniiy material. A [>iece of red cloth veils the
i\es and face-- tor the Tatlihe reipiires no external or^^'ans of
s]'j;\i\ to penetrate into the woi-hl ot" s[)iiits — and a i>late of
I'l'lished metal shines upon hi-; hreasl.
'J'hus aeeoutred, the 'i'adilie sei/es his inaiiical drum,
whose sounds summon tho spirits to his Avill. Its form is
i"iiiid, it lias but one bottom, made of reimh'i'r-skin, and is
more or less decorated with lirass rinns and other oniamenls,
arroi'diiiL;' to the wcLilth or poverty of its posses-or, |)ul■ill^•
the ceremony of invocation, tlie T.idibe is L';eiierally assisted
I'V a disciple, iii<>re or le.-s iniiiiited in the uiai^ic ait. Tlie\-
I'ither sit (h)wn. or walk about in a I'iri'le. 'I'jie chief sorcerer
beats t lie (b'um, ill lirst slowly, then with iiicreasiiii^- violence,
siiiu'in^' at the same time a few words to a mystic melody.
Tiie disi'i[»le immediately falls iii, and lioth repeat the sanu.'
iiioiiutoiioiis chant.
At lene'th the sj)ivits ai)pear, and the consultation is siii)-
l»<!Sed to betiin ; the Tudibe from time to time remainino-
silent, as if listeiiini;" to their answers, aii<l but ;,;'entlv
bcatiii>>- his drum, wliile the assistant continues to siiiji-.
Filially, this mute ci.>nversation ceases, the son;^ chanties
ino
TIIK I'OLAK WOKIJ).
into !i wiM li(»wllii^', lilt' (Iniiii is violently strndc, tlir eye of
ilic Tinlilx' i^'iows with ii stiMii'^'c lii'c, loniii isMues from his
li|ts — when .suddenly the nproiir eeases, iind the or;iiui;ii
sentenre is pronounced. The Tadihes tire etnisnlted not
only lor the ]iiir|M»se of I'ecoverin;;' a strange reindeer,
or to preserve the herd I'roin a e<»iitanious disorder, or to
obtain siiceess in lishiiiL;'; the Sainojede, when a [)i'ey t-i
illness, ser-ks no othei" medical advice; and the sort erer's
drinn either scares away the malevolent s[)ii'its that cause
tlio malady, or summons others to the assistance of lu^
patient.
'JMie ollice ot* Tadil»e is ;j,'enerally hereditary, but iiidivi-
tluals <;-il'ted by nature with excitable nerves and an ardent
ima^iiiiition not seMom desire to bo initiated in these sujier-
natural comninnications. No one can teatdi the candidate.
His morbid fancy is worked upon l)y solitudi', the conteni-
[)latiou of the i^'loomy aspect of nature, lon^* viyils, fasts, the
use of narcotics and stimulants, until he becomes persuaded
that he too has soon the apparitions Avhich }ie has heard of
from his boyhood. He is then rocoivod as a Tadibe with
many ceremonies, Avhich are held in the silence of tlu' ni^ht.
and invested with the inaj^'ic drum. Thus the Tadibe pai-1l\
l)elieves in the visions and fancies of his own overheated l»ra in.
Besides doalinu' with the invisible work!, he does not neu'lect
the usual arts of an expert conjurtn*, and knows by this means
to increase his intiuence over his simple-miiKhMl country-
men. One of his commonest tricks is similar to that whitli
lias been practised with so much success by the Ih'otluis
Davenport, lie sits down, with his lunuh:! and feet l)ouiid.
on a reindeer-skin stretched out upon the lioor, and, the li^lil
being' removed, be<4'ins to summon the ministerinry spirits in
liis aid. Strange unearthly noises now bei^'in to be heard —
l)ears growl, snakes hiss, squirrels rustle about the hut. At
lono'th the tumult ceases, the andience anxiously awaits the
end of the spectacle, Avhen suddenly the Tadibe, freed fr(»m his
bonds, steps into the hut — no one doubting' that the spirits
have set him free.
As barbarous as the poor wretches Avho submit to his
guidance, the Tadibe is incai)abl(> of impn)ving their moral
condition, and has no wish to do so. Under various nanus
SAMOJKhK S(>UCK1{KII>
lUl
eye ol"
»iu liis
•aciiliir
■il lint
i\i(lt't'r.
, or to
iivy i'»
i'( (Tcr s
I CilUSt'
ol" lii^
iiiilivi-
iinltMit
lulitlnl*'.
(•(.(iiti'in-
ists, 111*'
.TSUiult'tl
lu'urd of
ibo with
le iiiLi'lit.
]>;U'tI\
I lira ill.
iie^'lt'ft
s means
oimtrv-
t Nvliiili
irotlurs
l)ollll(l.
lu" li-'lit
ivits io
lu-anl- ■
mt. At
aits the
tV< ini 111!''
(> spirit?'
to lii>
tr luonil
— S( liaiiiaiis iiinoti<4' the 'I\iiiy;iisi, Aii<^"('k(»ks tniion;,' the I']s(|iii-
iiiiiax, iiifdit'iiK'-iiifii aiinMii;; tlii' Crccs ami Cliciu'wyaiis, <S,r.
— we liial similar mao;i('iaiis or imiutstorH assuiniiio; a si»iriliial
iiiitatorshii> over all tlu' Aroti<i nations of tlic UM ami tin*
Ni'W Woi 1(1, wlnTcvcr tlit'irantliority has not ln-fii Urokcn Ity
Clivislianity or Jimldliism ; and this (Ircary laitli >«till extends
its iiilliienc'o over at least half a million of sonis, from the
W'hiti' Sea to the extrenuty of Asia, and from the Paeilic t<»
II 11(1 son's Jiay.
liike the Usljaks and other yiberian trihi's, ih«' Saniojedes
ill. Hour the menioiy of the dead by sacritiees and (»ther eere-
iiioiiies. They believe that their deceased IVieuds have still
I lie same wants, and pursue the same occupations, as when in
I lie land of the liviuff ; and thus they place in »»r about their
graves a sled^-e, a spear, a coukin^'-pot, a knife, an axe, i^c,
to assist them in procurinj^- and i>ri'[)arin<^' their lood. At,
tip' funeral, and l'(.)r several years tiiterwards, the relations
Micrilict! reindeer over the ^•rave. When a person of note,
II |iriiice, a Starscliina, the i)ruprietor of numerous herds of
iviiideer, dies (for even anK»ny the miserable Saniojedes wo
find the social distinctions of rii-h and poor), the nearest
ivlatioiis uiake an ima^v, which is placed in the tent of the
•ceased, and enjoys the respect paid to hini durinj^- his life-
time. At evi'ry meal tlu^ imag'O is placed in his former seal,
and every eveuiu<>- it is undressed and laid down in his bi'd.
iiiiriiiy' three years the imagv is thus honoiu'ed, and then
liiiried ; for by this time the body is supposed to be decayed,
and to have lust all sensation of the past. The Sv)uls of the
Tadibes, and of those who have died a violent death, alone
I'liioy the privilej^'O of immortality, and after their terrestrial
lite hover about in the air as unsubstantial spirits.
\\'\ in spite of this privile^^v, and of the savoury morsels
iliat fall to their share at every sacriticial feast, or of the
[•resents received for their services, the Tadibes are very
unhappy beings. The ecstatic coiulition into which they
so fre(|uently work themselves, shatters their nerves and
darkens their mind. Wild looks, bloodshot eyes, an uncer-
tain n'ait, and a shy numner, are among the elfects of this
iKiiodical excitement.
Like the Ostjaks, the Saniojedes consider the taking of an
III
192
TllK I'Ul.All \Vt)KI-l).
(tilth ;is till iidioii of tlic hi^'host i'eli;4'ious iiiijturiiiiu'O. AVlicii
a c'l-imu has boon secretly eonimitted ii^'ainst, a Suiiiojeile, he
1ms the vi^-Ut t(j deiiiand iiii oath IVoiu the suspected iiersoii.
Ft' IK) wooden or stone Hahe is at hand, he manufactures
or.(' of earth or snow, leads his opponent to the inia^-e, sacri-
lices a do<4', breaks the iniaye, and then addresses him witli
the fillowini;' words: — ' If thou hast coniniiited this crime,
then nnist thou p'rish like this doy* I ' The ill-conserpienees
of perjury are so mnch (h'eaded by the Samojedes — who,
tlu>ug-h they have bnt very faint ideas of a fnture stall*,
firmly believe that crime ^^•'M be pnnished in this life, murder
with violent death, orrol)bt'i'v by losses of rein<h'er — that the
true criminal, whi'ii called upon to swear, hardly evt.'r submiis
to the ceremony, but rather at once confess(,'S his guilt and
pays the jienaliy.
The most etf<M;tual security for an oaih is tliat it sjiould lie
solemnised ovt.-r tlie snout of a bear — an animal which is
hi<4'hly revered liy all the Sil)erian tribes, ironi the Kani-
tsciiatlv'ans i(» tlie .Sanuijedes. as well as by the Laplanders.
Like the Laplanders, they believe that the liear conceals under
his shay-gy coat a human shape with m<»re than huuiaii
Avis(h>m, and speak of him in terms of the hii.^hesl revereii((\
Like the .lja2)[)S also, when occasion ort'ers. they will drive an
ai'row or a bullet throui.';h his skin; but they preface the
atta<;k with so manv comoliments, that tliev feel sure of dis-
arming his anji'cr.
The appearanee of the Samojedes is as wild as the country
"wliich they inhabit. Tin* dwarfish stature of the Ostjak. er
the La]ip, thielc li[is, small eyes, a low fondiead, a bre,i<l
uuse Sit mui-h tlattened that the end is nearly upon a le\il
with t]ieli(tiie of till' ujiper jaw (which is stroni;' and ^real
IV
• •levati'd), raven-l>laelc sliau-;^y hair, a thiii ])eard. and a
yell(t\v-br(twn complexion, are their characteristic iV'atures,
and in g'eneral they do n(tlhiii<4" to improve a form which Inis
bnt little naliu-al beauty to l)oast (tf. The 8am(tjede is sati-^-
fied if his heavy reinth'er-dress affords bin) protection ai^'aiii>t
the c(tld and rain, au<l cares little if it Ite dii'ty or ill-cut :
some dandies, however, w<'ar furs trimmed with chtth of a
gaudy i-t)lour. The wttmen, as long as they are unmarried,
take some pains with their persons ; and when a iSamojede girl.
SA.MO.IKDH roiH'LATIO.V.
J 93
, AVluMi
ji'ilo, 111'
[)ev.S()ii.
i\u-t\lV(,'S
c, siici'i-
iiii Avhli
s ei-iiui',
'qiUMlcrs
■s — Avlio,
n? still" %
, inur(l<'V
-that tin-
submils
••uilt autl
wliicli is
he l\aiH-
plaiKlt'i's.
■ills uiKln-
I liuiuaii
vorciico.
drivt' iiii
are tilt'
c 'A' di~
ctmiiln'
)sljal<. "I"
il lllM.lll
11 !t li'\''l
(I o'vciilly
(1. iiud ;i
iV'aiiiV'-.
ihicli lias
e is sati^
»n a^'iiiii^t
V ill-cut :
l(.tli of a
iimaiTiod,
>jede gii'l"
witli her small and lively l)liU'k cyt's, apju'iirs in licr roiiidoor
jarkct tightly littiiii;' round the wiiist, and iriiiniicd with do;^--
>kiii, ill her scai'li't mocassins, and her loiii^' black tivsses
nrnaniontod with pieces of bniss or tin, slie may well tempt
some rich admirer to otter a whole herd of reindeer for lun-
hand. For amoiiij;-st the S;iniojedes no father ever tliinks of
lu'stowing- u portion on his dany-liter : on the e»»ntrary, ho
vX[)ects from the hridej^Toom an oqnivalent for the services
which he is about to lose by her nnirriiiye. The ci>nse-
(|ii('nce of this deoTiidin*^- custom is thtit the husbiiiid treiits
his consort like a sliive, or as an inferior bein^-. A Samojede,
who laid Jiiurch'red his wife, Wiis quite surprised at bein^-
suiiiiiioned before a court of justice for what he considered a
tiitliiiLi,- otfence ; 'he had honestly paid for her,' he said, 'and
cniild surely do what he liked with his own/
'file senses and faculties of the Samojech's corresi)ond to
their ni(»de of life as nomads iind hunters. They Inive a
pici'ciiiM- (>ye, delicate hearinf^', and a steady lumd : tliey shoot
iiii iirrow with i^'reat accuracy, tind are swilt runners. On
the (tiller hiuid, they have ii ^-ross tsiste, ^•enerally consuming-
thiir fish or their reindeer-ilesh riiw ; and their smell is so
wc;ik tliiit they iippear quito insensible to the putrefying-
nilnurs arising;' from the sent [)inj4's <»f skins, stinkin;^" tish, and
nthcr oifal which is allowed to accumulate in and about their
hilts.
The Siimojede is i^ood-mitured, melancholy, and [)hle;4'-
iiiiitic. He has. indeed, but indistinct notions of ri^'lit and
wiuiiM'. of u'ood and evil ; but lie [tossesses a ^riitefulln'iirt, and
is I'ciidy to divi(h' his last morsel with his friend. Cruelty,
ivvt'iiL^'e, the darker crimes tluit jioUiite so niiiny of the
sii\;iL;-e tribes of the tropic.il zone, iire foi'ei^'ii tolas eharactei'.
< 'oiistiintly iit Wiir with \i dre.idful clinnite, a ]>rey to i<4'no-
I'ancc mid poverty, he ri'<^"!irds most ot' the tliiiiii's of this lift;
wit h supreme indilfereiice. A ;^'o(»d meal is of coni'se a m;it-
ti'i' of importance in his eyes; but even the Wiint of ii meal
he will bear with stoical iipathy, when it can only be i^'ained
I'V exertion, for he sets ii still higher value on repose iind
:^li'e[i,
A common triiit in the cluiracter of all .Siiniojedes, is the
Lil'K.iiiy view which they tiike of life ;ind its concerns; their
o
104
TllK I'Uf.AU WoKLIi.
|i I
internal world is us clit'erless as that which surrounds them.
True men of ice and snow, they relin(|uish, Avithout a ninr-
mnr, a hfo which they can hardly l(»ve, as it imposes upon
them many privations, and ulFords them hnt few pleasures in
return.
They a)'0 suspicious, like all oppressed nations that have
much to suffer from their more crafty or ener^'ctic nei«^"li-
houi's. Oljstinately attached to their old customs, they are
opposed to all innovations ; and they have been so often
deceived by the Russians, that they may well be pardoned if
they h)(>k Avith a mistrustful eye upon all benefits coming'
from that source.
The wealth of the Samojedes consists in tlu^ possession of
herds of reindeer, and P. von Ki'usenstei-n, in 18 l-">, calculated
the nundjer owned bv the Samojedes of the Lower Petschoni.
near Pustosersk, at l(),(MM) head — a nuich smaller number
than Avhut they formerly had, OAvin<^' to a succession of mis-
fortunes. The Russian settlers alon^- that inunense stream
and its tributaries gTadually ol)tain possession of their best
pasture-g-rounds, and force them to recede Avithiii narrower
and naiTOAver limits. Thus many ha\^e been reduced to the
AA'retched condition of the Arctic lishernmn, or ha\'e been
compelled to exchanL!,'e their ancient independence for a life
of submission to the will of an imiierious master.
The entire number of the European and Asiatic Samojedt s
is estimated at nt» more than about 10,(>()(>, and this nundier.
small as it is Avhen compared to the A'ast territory over Aviiieli
they roam, is still decreasing- from year to year. Before their
subjuo-ation by the Russians, the Samojedes Avere frecpiently
at war Avith their nei<,dibonrs, the Ostjaks, the Wof;-uls, and
the Tartars, and the rude poems which celebrate the deeds
of the heroes of old are still suno- in the tents of their peace-
ful descendants. The nn'Dsfrcl, or tyiniliddoiir — if T may tie
alloAA'ed to use these names while sj^eakino- of the rudest el
mankind — is seated in the centre of the hut. Avhile the
audience squat around. His <4'esticulations endeavour te
express his sympathy Avith his hero. His body trenddes, liis
voice quivers, and during; the ntore pathetic parts of his story.
tears start to his eyes, and he co\ors his face with his It tt
'
ids them,
it u mnv-
oses upon
ensures in
that have
ic nei«^'h-
they aro
so often
irdoned if
:s coming'
session of
;aleuhite(l
'etschora.
f imiiihcr
1 of mis-
;e stream
heir best
narrower
e<T to the
.ave been
for a lite
amoji'di ,s
number,
■er Avhicli
OTe their
•equently
[jfuls, 11 nd
he deeds
'ir peaee-
[ may ho
rudest i>l'
Idle the
iivour te
ibk^s, his
lis st()r\ .
.1 his lel'f
SAMOJKDf.: TJtOLl'ADOUH.S. if,j
I.U..1 while the risht. hoWi,,. „„ ,,,-0.., directs its point
the ground. The audi,.„ee generally keep silenee l,„t
then- groans accompany the hero's death; or when he soars
"l">" -n eagle to the elonds, and thns escapes the n.alice
e us enemies, they express their delight by a trinn.phaut
The Snow Bunting,
o 2
mmmmmmmmm
CHAPTER XV.
TIIK OSTJAKS.
\\'Iiat is tile 01)i? Iiiuiitlatidus -An dstjak Sinnincr .riirl — TDVcrty of tlw O^ij.ik
I'lslnriiifii A WmtiT .I\irt Attarlmniit oi' tlio ()>ljaks t(i tlu'ir ain'ii'iit Cu<-
tdins All (tstjak I'riiicc — Arclicry — .\|iiiiaraiu'<' and (."liarui-tur ot' tlir Osijiik--
.--Tlic l'"air ofOLd.ii'sk.
TiniAT is the UbiP— 'Ono of the most inokncholy
* * rivers on earth,' say the few Eurojieaii travellers who
have ever seen it roll its turbid waters thron^'h the Avilderiiess,
'its luonotonons banks a dreary succession of swamps ami
dismal pine-foresis, and hardly a living' creature to be seen,
but cranes, wild ducks, and yvese.' If ydu address the saino
question to t»ne of the few Russians who have settled (Hi
its banks, he answers, with a devout mien, 'Old is (nir
motlier ; ' but if you ask tlie C)stiak, he bursts forth, in a
laconic but cner«i'etic phrase — 'Obi is the j^'od whom avo
luaiour above all (»nr other i^'ods.'
To him the Olii is a source of life. With its salmon ami
>sturye(>n lie pays hi.- taxes and debts, and buys his few
of tlic (>^i,;;ik
iiioiunt ('»—
tile (istiiik-
'lanclioly
Hers Avlid
ilderiit^ss,
lups sukI
Ijo set '11.
the same
_»ttled (111
hi is (iiir
>rili, ill ii
■Nvhoiu ^vt'
hiioii iiinl
bis lew
TIIK l{IVi:i{ Olil.
I'.u
liixnrios; while the fishes of inferior (jiiahty whieh ^-et eii-
tiiiiju'h'tl in his net ho keeps for his own eonsnniption, and
tluit of his faithful doj^-, eatinu- ilicni mostly raw, so tlait the
pt'reh not seldom feels his teeth as soon as it is pulled
(lilt of the water. In sprinu;-, when the Obi and its tribu-
tiiries burst their bonds of ice, and the floods sweep
ever the plains, the Ostjak is frecpiently driven into the
woods, where he finds but little to appease his lunii^-er ;
at leny-th, however, the waters subside, the flat banks of
till' river appear above their surfaee, and the sava^^e erects
his sunnner hut cdose to its stream. This hovel bus
Li't'iierally a quadrany'ular form, low walls, and a hi«^'h
poi'ited roof, made of willow-branches covered Avith lar«i'e
pirees of bark. These, havino- first been softened by
bdiilii^', are sewn too'ether, so as to form lar^'e mats or
(.iirpets, easily rolled up and transported. The hearth, a mere
liole enclosed by a few stones, is in the centre, and the smoke
escapes throno-h an aperture at the top. Close to the hut there
is also, o-onerally, a small storehouse erected on hiyh poles,
as ill Lapland ; for the provisions must be secured against
tlic attacks of the glutton, the Avolf, or the owner's dogs.
Although the Obi and its tributaries — the Irtyseh, the
Wach, the Wasjugan — abundantly provide for the wants
"f the Ostjaks, yet those who are exclusively fishermen
Vfurtate in a, state of the greatest poverty, in indolence,
•Iniukenness, and vice. The wily Russian setth.'rs have got
tlit'iii completely^ in their power, by advancing them goods
"11 crv'dit, and thus securing the produce of their fisheries
tium year to year. During the whole summer Russian
siH'culators from Obdorsk, Beresow, and Tobolsk, sail about
<m t!ie Obi, to I'eceive from their (.)stjak debtors the salmon
and sturgeon which they have caught, or to fish on their own
accniiiit, which, as having better nets and more assistance,
llicy do with much greater success than the poor savages.
The Russian Government has, indeed, conliniied the < )st jaks
in the possession of almost all the land and water in the
territories (»f the LoAver Obi and Trtysch, but the Russian
traders find means to monopolise the best part of tli<'
tisiii'i'i(>s : t'nr ignorance and stupidity, in spite ol' all laws in
'lii'ir favoui". are nowhere a match lor mercantile cunning.
198
TUK TOLA It WOULD.
i! I
At the boo-iiiiiin^'of winter, tlio Ostjaks retire into the woods,
where they find at least some proteetion ai^ainst the Arctic
blasts, and are busy hnntin<^ the sable or the sqnirrel ; Imt
as fishinf^ iift'ords them at all times their chief fo(»d, thcv
take care to establish their Avintcr lints on some eminence
above the reach of the sprin^,' innndations, near some small
river, which, throno-h holes made in the ice, affords their nets
and an<i;-leis a precarious supply. Their winter jurt is some-
what more solidly constructed than their summer residence,
as it is not removed every year. It is low and small, and its
walls arn plastered with chiy. Lifjht is admitted throun^h a
piece of loe ii>-^rted in the wall, or on the roof. In the
better sort <-" im ,, the space alonfj^ one or several of the walls;
is hunfif with mats made of sedges, and here the family sits or
sleeps. tSo , times a small antechamber serves to hanf^ ny
the clothes, or is used as a r-^jjository for household utensils.
Besides those who live solely upon fishes and birds of pas-
sage, there are other Ostjaks who possess reindeer herds.
and wander in summer to the border of the Polar sea, where
they also catch seals and fish. When Avinter approaches,
they slowly retnrn to the woods. Finally, in the movf^
sonthernly districts, there are some Ostjaks who, havini:
entirely adopted the Russian mode of life, cultivate tli*'
soil, keep cattle, or earn their livelihood as carriers.
In general, however, the Ostjak, like the Sumojede, obsti-
nately withstands all innovations, and remains true to the
customs of his forefathers. He has been so often deceived
b}' the Russians that he is loth to receive the gifts of civili-
sation from their hands. He fears that if his children learn
to read and write, they will no longer be satisfied to live
like their parents, and that the school Avill deprive hini el'
the suppf)rt of his age. He is no less obstinately attached
to the religion of his fathers, Avhicli in all essential points
is identical with that of the Samojedes, In some of tlie
southern districts, along the Irtysch, at Surgut, he has in-
deed been baptized, and hangs uj) the image of a saint in his
hut, as his Russian pope or priest has instructed him to de :
but his Christianity extends no further Along the tribn-
taries of the Obi, and below Obdorsk, he is still plunged in
Schamanism.
Like the Hajnojedes, the Ostjaks, whose entire number
niAKAfTKIi ol' TIIK »»sT.lAKs.
kt:»
I e woods,
le Arctic
■rcl ; 1)111
)0(1, tln\v
'inincTift*
110 siruill
heir nets
is soino-
GsitleiK'c,
1, and its
hronn'li ii
In thf
tho Willis
ily sits f>r
i lianfr u]i
ntensils.
s of pas-
er herds,
ea, whf'vo
iproaches,
the move
, haviiii:'
ivate tlif
de, obsti-
ae to the
deceived
of civili-
ren Iciivii
d to Hve
e him <>1
attached
ial points
iie of the
e has in-
int in his
im to do :
he trihii-
nn(ved in
' nnmbt^r
11 nil Hints to about 2-'). ('()(», are subdivided into tribes, rr-
niiiidiii''' one of the lliu'hhind chins. Each tribe consists of
a Hiiiulter of families, of a comni(»n descent, and sonietiiues
riim]trisiii<4' many hundred indivitUials, wlio, however distantly
i'cl;it"'il, consider it a duty to assist each other in distress.
Tlic fortunate lishcrnuin divides the sjtoils of the day with
liis less fortunate clansman, who hardly thanks liini for a
^it't which he considers as his due. In cases of dispute the
Starschina. or elder, acts as a jiidL;*' ; if, h(»wever, the ]>arties
ai-e not satisfied with his verdict, they appeal to the hl«4'her
authority of the hereditary (diieftain or prince — a title which
lias l)een conferred, by the Km})ress Catherine H., on the
(>stjak mag'uates who, froui time immemorial, have been
ciiiisirhM'ed as the heads (»f their tribes. These princes are. of
eonrse, subordinate to the Russian ofticials, and bound to ap-
jM'ar, with the Starschinas, at the fairs of lieresow or Obdorsk,
as they are answerable for the (piantity and fjuality of the
vai'ious Sorts of furs which the Ostjaks are obliy-ed to pay
as a tribute to Government. Their di;4uity is hereditary, and,
in default of male descendants, passes to the nearest nu>le re-
lation. It must, however, not l)e supposed that tlu'se princes
are distini^uished from the other (Jstjaks by their riches, or a
more splendid appearance ; for their mo(h' of life differs in
no way from that of their inferiors iu rank, and like them
they are obliged to Hsh or to hunt ibr their daily subsistence.
On entering the liut of one of these di<^nitaries, Castreu
found him in a ra<^'yed jacket, while the i)rincess had no
other robe t»f state but a shirt. The prince, having- liberally
Inlped himself from the brandy-bottle which the traveller
• 'lit red him, became very communicative, and complained of
the sulferinns and cares of the past Avinter. He had exerted
himself to the utnu»st, but without success. Far from t^'iviiii;"
way to in(h)Ience in his turf-luit, he had been (nit hunting- in
the foivst, after the iirst snow-fall, but rarely pitehinu* his
hark-tent, and frecpiently sleepin<^' in the open air. Vet, in
s[iite of all his exertions, he had (d'ten not l)een able tc* shoot
:i sin^'leptarmiy'an. His stores of meal and frozen fishes were
seoii exhausted, and sometimes the princely family had been
I'M bleed to eat the tle->h of wolves.
The Ostjaks are excellent arfdiers. and, like all the othei-
hunt inn' tril)es of Siberia, use variouslv constructed arrf>ws tor
mmm
200
TIIH roi.AU WORF.n.
the difforont objects of tlioir oluiso. Snuiller sliiit't.^, with ii
Icuob of wood at the end, are destined tor tlie S([uiiTelH ami
other small auiiiuils wliose fur it is desiral)le not to injure;
whiki hu'<4'e arrows with stron;^' trian^^ular iron ]ioints brin^;-
down the wolf, the bear, an<l sonietinu-s Iho fuj^itive cxilr.
F(»r, to prevent th(> escape of criminals sentenced to biinisli-
meiit in Siberia, the Russian (Jovernment nllows the Ostjaks
to shoot any unknown person, not belon^-ine- to their race,
Avhom they may meet with on their territory. Although
well aAvare of this dan^^vr, several exiles have attempted to
escape to Arehanyel alon<4" the border of the Arctic sea ; but
they either died of hun^-ei', or were devoured by wild beasts.
or shot by the Ostjaks. There is but one instance known of
an exile, wdio, after spending- a whole year on the journey, a<
length reached the abodes of civilised man, and he was
pardoned in consideration of the dreadful sulferings he had
undergone.
The Ostjaks are generally of a small stature, and most of
them arc dark-com})lexioned, with raven-black hair like the
Samojedes ; some of them, however, have a fairer skin ami
light-coloured hair. They have neither the oblique eyes
nor the broad projecting cheek-bones of the Mongols and
Tungus, but bear a greater resenddance to the Finnisli.
Samojede, and Turkish cast of countenance. They are a
good-natured, indolent, honest race ; and tln^ugh they are
extremely dirty, yet their smrdcy huts are not more tilthy
than those of the Norwegian or Icelandic lisherman. As
among the Samojedes, the women are in a very degraded
condition, the father always giving his daughter in marriage
to the highest bidder. The price is very dilferent, and rises
or falls according to the circumstances of the parent; for
while the rich man asks fifty reindeer for his child, the poor
fisherman is glad to part with his daughter for a few squirrel-
skins and dried sturgeon.
Before taking leave of the Ostjaks, we will still tarry a
moment at the small town of Obdorsk, which may be con-
sidered as the capital of their country, and entirely owes
its existence to the trade carried on l>etween them and tlic
Russians. Formerly the merchants from Beresow and To-
bolsk used merely to visit the spot, but the ditliculties of tlic
journey soon com])elled tlicm to (>stal>lish pcrnianei't dwell-
I! I
OST.TAK FA HIS.
'201
, Avllh ii
i'i'Ih mill
> injur*' :
its brinu'
vc cxilt'.
l)!iinsli-
' Ostjiil<s
.i.'ir viiec,
Vltluaigli
mpled tn
sea ; but
id l)eiists,
known of
(urney, at
l1 ho Avas
o-s lie luul
J. most (^f
ir like the
• skin and
lique eyes
nu'ols and
Finnislu
ley are a
they are
lore tilthy
num. As
deu'raded
nuirriatie
, and rises
I rent ; i'"V
, the pool-
Lv squirrel-
lill tarry u
|iy be oou-
Ircdy owes
In and tlie
lv and Tt>-
ties of the
lent dwell-
\n'^s in that dreary re;4-i(>n. A certaiti number of* exiles
serves to inerease the seanty population, whieh consists of a
strano-e nn'dley of various nations, ann>ny Avhom (*astren
tnun<l a Calnuu-k, a Kir^his, and a l\)lish cook, who bitterly
eoniplained that he had but few o[)[)ortunities of sliowin<,' his
skill in a town where people lived <"' In Ostjak. In fact, most
of the Russian inhalntants of the place have in so far a(htpt(Hl
the Ostjak mode vt' life, as to deem the eookin<;' of their
victuals superfluous. "When Castren, on his arrival at Obdorsk,
jiaid a visit to a Tobolsk nu'rchant, who had been for some
tiiiie settled in the place, he found the whole family lyin;^ on
the floor, reu;'alini;' t>n raAV fish, and the most civilised person
lie met with told him that he had tasted neither b(jiled nor roast
llrsh or tish for half a year. Yet fine shawls and dresses, and
iiiiw no doubt the crinoline and the chi^j^non, are found amidst
all this barbarism. Edifices with the least pretensions to ar-
chitectural beauty it Avoidd of course be vain to look for in
( )lidorsk. The houses of the better sort of llussian settlers are
two-storied, or consistinji; of a ^Tound-floor and ^-arrets ; but
as they are built of wood, and are by no nutans wind-tight,
the half-famished Ostjaks, Avho have settled in the town, are
lirobably more comfortably housed in their low turf-huts,
than the prosperous Russian inhabitants of the place. The
latter make it their chief occupation to cheat the Ostjaks
in every possible way ; some of them, however, aHd to this
profitable, if not praiseworthy occupation, the keepin<;- of
reindeer herds, or even of cows and sheep.
The fair lasts from the beii-innino- of Avinter to February,
and during- this time the Ostjaks who assemble at Obdorsk
pitch their bark -tents about the town. With their an'ival a
new life begins to stir in the wretched place. Groups of the
wild sons and daughters of the tundra, clothed in heavy
skins, make their appearance, and stroll slowly through the
streets, admiring the high wooden houses, which to them
seem palaces. But nothing is to be seen of the aninuition
and activity Avliich usually characterise a fair. Concealing
some costly fur under his wide skin nnintle, the savage l)ays
his cautious visit to the trath.u', and nuikes his bargain amid
copious libations of brandy. He is well aware that this
underhand way of dealing is detrinunital to his interests;
hilt his timorous disposition shrinks from public sales, and
Wt^^fjiy^mf^mimm
202
TIIK I'OI.AK \Vol!l,|).
frequently lio is not «,'von in llie situation to jn'ofil 1»\ coni-
])L>tition ; lor iinu)n<^' tin.' lli(»usunds that Hock t(t the tair,
there are but very lew who do not owe to the tra<lers of
Ohdorsk much more than they possess, or c-an ever hop*; to
repay. W(»e to tlie poor Ostjak whose creditor shoidd tiiid
him deallnt;' with some other trath'r ! — for the seizure of all his
moveable property, of liis tent an<l household utensils, would
be the least punishment which the "wretch turued adrift into
the naked desert would have to expect. The fair is not
opened bef<»r<' (Jovernment has received the furs which are
due to it, or at least a g-uiirantee for the amount from the
merchants of the place. Then the maj^azines of the traders
gTadually tdl with furs — with cl<»thes of reindeer-skin ready-
made, with feathers, reindeer-flesh, frozeu sturgeon, mam-
moth tusks, i^c. For these jj^oods the Ostjaks receive flour,
baked bread, tobacco, jjots, kettles, knives, needles, brass
buttons and ring's, glass pearls, and other trifling articles.
An open trade in spirits is not allowed; but brandy may be
sold as a medicine, and thus many an Ostjak takes advantage
of the fair for undergoing a cure the reverse of that -which
is recommended by hydropathic doctors.
Towards the end of February, when the r)stjaks have re-
tired into the woods — where they hunt or tend their reindeer
herds until the opening of the fishing season recalls them to
the Obi — the trader prepares for his join'uey to Irbit, Avhere
he hopes to dispose of his furs at an enornutus profit, am!
Obdorsk is once more left until the following winter to its
deathlike solitude.
The Sable.
1»\ (Mllll-
lie I'iiii',
lulcrs (if
ll(>[M' ((>
iild iind
.fiillliis
S, Udllld
.ril't into
r is iifil
liicli art'
r(,)m the
:> tradors
11 ivadv-
11, luaiii-
ivo flour,
:'S, brass
articles.
( may 1)p
Ivautao-p
at Avliich
have re-
rciiuloor
them to
, Avherc
(•fit, and
r to its
::£m
'i-jtj.lc.-:.
(MIA ITER XVI.
( ONQIEST OF SFIIKRIA BY THE lU'SSIAXS- TFiriT? VOYAGE'; OF
DISCOVERY ALON(i THE SIIOHES OF THE I'OLAH SFIA.
IvriM tlio Tcrrililc— -StiYiii-oiuitf Ycri:i;ik tlic UmMki- and C'liiiijiwrdr lli.< Mxjifdi-
tidiis to Siljcria - linttlc ii\' T(jbr)lsk - ^'ci'iiiak's ])catli l'r(i^;r('ss of ili,' K'lis-
siaiistti Ocliiitsk- St'int'ii I)(>liiii-\v - Coiiditioii of the Sil'crian N:itivi> umlrrflic
Russian Yoke Voyajifs of Uiscovcry in tlic Rciirn of liic I'ltnjircss Anna -
Pi'iintschisclitscliew — L'liariton ami I)cmcti'in< I,a]>fi\v -.\ii arctii' Jrcrnino —
Si'halauruw I )i^c.n-rries in the Si a of iSrhrinir aiid in tlif I'ai-ilir O.'i-an — 'riii->
Liik-liow Islaml- I'o.ssil Ivory N'W SiIm ria— Tlir W.i.iilcn .Muiuilains— 'riir
past Ages of Silicria.
IN the lJ('^■illlli]lu' of the thirteeiitli centurN-. tlie now Imn'e
J'hn[)ire of Russia was coufiiieil t<» ]iart (d' iicr orcsfiil
Knropeaii possessions, and divided into several iude|)endent
priuciitalities, the scone of disuni(»!i and almost jjerputual
warfare. Thus when the country was invaded, in ri-"!(i, by
tlit^ Tartars, under Baaty Khan, a grandson of tlie famous
<ieiio-is Khan, it fell an easy prey to its concpierors. The
miseries of a foreij^-n yoke, ag'g-ravated by intestine discord,
lasted ab(»ut 2.")0 years, until Tvan Wasiljewitscli I. (1402-
204
TIIK POI.AU WOKM).
loO,')) bcpiiiiK' lilt' (It'liviTcr oC liis country, uihI liii<l llir
foiiiidiiiiniis of lu'r ruturc ^Tciitiicss. 'J'liis nhlr [triiicc sul»-
«lii('(l, ill I I7<>, the (it'int \(>r)i(ir(iil,ii city until then so|M»W('r-
I'lil ;is t<» liitvc niuintiiiiUMl its iii<l('i»cnilcnc(', both ai^ainst the
llussiiin f^n'iind princes mid the Tiirtar khiins; and, ten years
later, he not only throw otf the yoke of the Khans of Khip-
sack, hut destroyed their empire. The con(|nesi ol'Constan-
lino[)le l)y the Turks placed the spiritual diadem of the
ancient Ca-sai's on his head, and caused him, as chief of the
(j!re(dv orthochix Church, to exchani^v his old title of (.irand
Prince for the more si<4'niricant and iiiiposini;' one of ( V.ar.
His <4'randson, fvau VV'asiljewitsch FI.,a cruel hut ener^^-etic
monarch, C(»u<]uered Kasau in ir)r)2,and thus completely and
permanently overthrow the dominion of the Tartars. Two
years later ho subdued Astrakhan, and planted the Cii'oek
cross on tho bonU'rs of tho Caspuiii Sea, where until then
only the Crescent had boeu soon.
lu spite of the iidiuman cruelty that diso-raced his idia-
racter, and oarued for him tho name of Tcrrihlr, Ivan sought,
like his illustrious successor Peter tho CJroat, to iutro(lucr
the arts and sciences of Western Europe into his barbarous
realm, and to improve tho Russian manufactures by eii-
couraj^'in;^- (Jorman artists and mechanics to settle in the
country. It was in his roij^'u that Chancellor discovered the
passage from En<ifland to tho White Sea, and Ivan gladly
seized tho opportunity thus afforded. Soon after this the
port of Archan;4'el was built, and thus a now seat was oponeil
to civilisation at tho northern extremity of Europe.
After the concpiost of Kasan, several Russians settled in
that province; amon<j^ others, a merchant of the name of
Strog-onoff, who established some salt-works on the bank-;
of tho Kama, and opened a trade with tho natives. Amoiii;'
those he noticed some strann-evs, and havino- heard that tliev
came from a country ruled l)y a Tartar khan, who resided in
a capital called Sibir, he sent some of his people into their
land. These ag'onts returned with tho Hnest sable-skins,
which they had pin-chased for a trifling sum ; and Strogoiiotf,
not so covetous as to wish to koop all the advantage of his
discovery to himself, immediately informed the Government
of the new trade he had opened. He was rewarded with
f
<(»\(/ri';>*T <"" siiir.iMA.
•J0.1
id tlir
•t' sul>-
jtoNvcr-
list the
II yciirs
Kliip-
)iistiin-
ol' tlw
..f tlic
(irainl
ii.fo-ciic
cly Jiiul
i. * Two
J Creels
til tlieii
Ills ellil-
ltr<>(luce
irbiirous
l)y «'ii-
in the
red the
1 o-ladly
liis tlu'
openetl
Ittled ill
liiiine ef
• b!nd<-;
liii
lev
t tl
^ided ill
Ito their
»e-si\
111?
roti'oiH)
le (>
'riiiiu
tt',
{' Lis
■lit
I lie yit't »»r (•onsideriii)le estales sit the conlhieiiee of the
l\:iiiiii siiid Tsehinsov;!, and his deseeiidiiiit.s, the ("mints
S|n»;,'<»iH»fl', are, as is wrll known, reckoned anu»ii;4; < he richest
>>\' the liiissian nohility.
Soon after Ivan sent some troo|)s to Sihcria. wliose priiieo
Jcdio'cr ai'kn<.)\vh'dL;"ed his sn|»reinae\", and promised to pay
him an animal trihutc of a thonsand sah|(>-skins. Ihit this con-
nection was not of lon;^' dnration, for a few years after Jed i^-er
\v;is(h'feated hy another Tartar [»rince, named Kntchnm Khan;
iiiid thus, after Jinssian inthieiice had taken the first step to
cstahlisli itself l)eyt»nd the Ural, it once more hecnnie donhtfnl
wlicther N(»rthorn Asia was to bo Christian or Maliometiin.
Tie (jiiestion was soon after decided by a tiij^itive r(»bber.
The concpiests of Ivan on the (*as[»ian Sea had called into
lite a considerabli! trade with Bokhara and Persia, whiidi,
however, was e-reatly distnrbed by the depredations of the
Doll Cossacks, who made it their practice to plunder the
caravans. ]}iit Ivan, not the man to be trifled with by a
horde of freebooters, immediately sent out a body of troo|>s
against the Don Cossacks, who, not vontnrin^- to me'ct them,
snui>'ht their safety in lliyht. At the head of the fiijiitives,
whose number amounted to no k'ss than (5,000 men, was
N'ermak Timodajetl^', a man who, like Cortez or Pi/.arro, was
destined to lay a now emi)iro at the feet of his master.
Dili while the troops of the Czar were following' his track,
Veriiiak was not yet dreamine^ of future conquests ; his ojdy
aim was to escape the executioner; and ho considered himstdf
t'xtreiuely fortunate when, leavin;^" his }»ursuers far behind, he
at leiio'th arrived on the estates of Stro^onoff. Hero he was
Well received — bettor, no doubt, than if ho had come siiie-lo-
lianded and defenceless; and Strogouoff haviii;;' made him
;ic(niuintod with Siberian atfairs, ho at once resolved to try
his fortunes on this new scone of action. As the tyranny of
K'utchum Khan had rendered him odious t(» his sultjects, he
hoped it Avould be an easy task to overthrow his power; the
I'lMspect of a rich booty of sable-skins was also extremely
attractive ; and, finally, there could bo no doubt that the
ureutcst dang'ors wore in his rear, and that any choice was
iH'tterthan to fall into the hands of J van the Terrible. Stro-
aoiioff, on his part, had excellent reasons for eneouraoing- the
206
TliK I'OLAIt WOnLD.
lid vent live. If it succeeded, a consideriilde part of the profits
was likely to iall to liis sliare ; if not, he at least was rid of
his inihiddeii guest.
Thus Yeriuak, in the suninii'r of 1578, advanced Avith his
Cossacks along the banks of the Tschinsova into Siberiii.
But, either from a want of knowledge of the country, or
from n<»t having taken the necessary precautions, ho was
overtaken l)y winter before he could nnike any progress; and
when s^n-ing a}»peared, famine conipelle<I him to return to
his old quarters, where, as may easily be imagined, his re-
ception was none of the most cordiaL But, far from losing
courage from this first disappointment, Yermak was firmly
resolved to persevere. He had gained experience — his self-
confidence was steeled by adversity ; and when Strogonoti'
attempted to refuse him further assistance, he pointed to
his Cossacks, with the air of a man who has the means of
enforcing obedience to his orders. This time Yermak took
better measures for ensuring success ; he com])elled 8trog(»nolf
to furnish him with an ample supply of ja'ovisions and
annnunition, and in the June of the following year, we again
find him, Avith his faithful Cossacks, on the march to Siberia.
But such were the impediments which the pathless SAvamps
and forests, the severity of tlie climate, and the hostility
of the uatiA'es opi)osed to his progress, that toAvards the
end of 1580, his force (uoav reduced to 1 ,500 men) had reaclu'd
no farther than the banks of the Tara. The subsequent
advance of this little band Avas a ccnistiint succession f>f
hardships and skirmishes, Avhicli caused it to melt away like
snoAV in the sunshine ; so that scarcely 500 remained Avlien, at
the confluence of the Tobol and the Irtysch, they at length
reached the camp of Kutchum Khan, whose overAvhelmiiig
numbers seemed to mock their audacity.
But Yermak felt as little fear at sight of the innumeral)lc
tents of the Tartar host, as the Avolf Avhen meeting a herd of
sheep ; he kncAV that his Cossacks, armed Avith their matcli-
h)cks, had long since disdahied to count their enemies, and,
fully determined to conquer or to die, he gaA^e the order to
attack. A drea<lful battle ensued, for though the Tartars
only fought Avith their bows and arrows, yet they Avere no
less brave than their adversaries, and their vast superiority
IJATTLK OK TOBOLSK.
20;
■ prutits
3 rid of
kith his
Siberiii .
itry, or
he was
!ss ; and
'turn to
liis ro-
ll k)sin^'
s tirinly
his soll-
n^ffoiioti'
iuted to
iieaiis of
lak took
roo'oiiolf
011s and
we ao'ain
Siberiii,
SAvamjis
hostility
irds tlic
roaclu'd
bsc(|uent
ssiou of
way Hk(>
when, iit
it U'lio-tli
hohiiiuu'
unerahle
I herd of
r iiiatcli-
iios, and.
order to
Tartars
wero no
])eriority
of numbers made up for the iiiferii^'quahty of their weapons.
I'lie stnnjfo'le was h>no- doubtful — thi' Tartars repeating
attaek upon attack like the waves of a storm-tide, and the
('ossaeks receiving- their assaults as firmly and immoveably
IIS rocks ; until, linallv, the liordes of Kutchnm Khan o-ave
wiiy to their stubborn ol)stinacy, and his eainp and all its
treasures fell into the hands of the conquerors.
The sul)S(Hiuent conduct of Yermak proved that he had
nil the qualities of a o-oneral and a statesman, and that his
talents were not unequal to his fortunes. Witliout losing- a
sin'^'le moment, he, immediately after this decisive battle, sent
{nivt (if his small Ijand to occupy the capital of the vanquished
K'utchum, for he well knew that a victory is but half-o-ained
if one delays to reap its fruits. The Cossacks fomid the
].la((> evacuated, and soon after Yermak made his triumphal
entry into Sibir. His Aveakness now became a source of
stri'ii^th, for, daunted bv the wonderful suec(>ss of this hand-
till (if straii<»vrs, the people far and wide cam(> to render him
lioiua^'o. The Ostjaks of the Soswa freely consented to
yield an annual tribute of 280 sable-skins, and other tiibes
t r tlit^ same riiition, who were more backward in t'.ieir sub-
iiiissidii, were compelled by his menaces to pay him a tax or
/'<.s>v//,- (_)f eleven skins for every archer.
It was not without reason that Yermak thus souy-ht to
collect as many of these valuable furs as he possibly could,
till' his aim was to obtain from Ivan a pardon of his former
drliiiquencies, by ])resentint;' him with the richest spoils oi'
liis victories, and he well knew that it Avould be impossibh^
f'nr him to maintain his conquests without further assistance
t'ldni the i'/MV. (Jreat was Ivan's astonishment when an
• iivoy of the fu<^'itive rol»ber brouf>ht him the welconu' <;'ift of
-.100 salde-skius, and informed him that Yermak had added
a iit'w province to his realm. He at once ((iiiqu^diciided that
till' hero who Avith small m(Mns had achievtMl such f^'i-cnt
successes, Avas the fittest man to consolidate or enlarg'o his
ac(|uisitions ; he consequently not only pardoned all his former
olVrucv's, but confirmed him in the dij^iiity of g'overnor and
'•nimiiander-in-chief in the countries Avhich he had subdued.
rinis Yermak's envoy, havino- bei^n received Avith the o-rcat-
'•■-1 distinction at Moscow, returned (o his fortunate inastei-
Mi
208
THE POLAR WOULD.
with a rol)e oflionour Avhieli liatl been woini by the 0/ar him-
self, and the still iiion; welcome iiitelliyeiiee that reiiitoive-
ineiits w^ere ou the march to join him.
Meanwhile Yermak had continued to advance into the
valley of tlie ( )l)i beyond its conllnence with the Irtysch ; uinl
when at len«4'th his force was an<^-mente(l by the arrival of
oOO Russians, he pursued his expeditions with increasinj^'
audacity. On his return from one of these forays, he en-
camped on a small island in the Irtysch. The nig-ht was
dark and rainy, and the llussians, fatigued by their march,
relied too much upon the badness of the weather or the terror
of their name, lint Kutchum Khan, having been informed
by his spies of their Avant of vigilance, crossed a ford in the
river, and falb'ng upon the unsuspecting Russians, killed
them all except one single soldier, who brought the fatal
intelliti'ence to Sibir. Yermak, when he saw his warriors
fall around him like grass before the scythe, with(jut losiiii;
his presence of mind for a moment, cut his Avay through
the Tartars, and endeavoured to save himself in a boat. But
in the medley he fell into the water and was drt>wned.
By the orders of Kutchum, the body of the hero was
exposed to every indignity wdiich the rage of a barl)arian
can think of; but after this first explosion of impotent furv,
his followers, feeling ashamed of the ignoble conduct of their
chief, buried his remains with princely pomp, and ascribed
miraculous powers to the grave in which they were de})osited.
The Russians have also erected a. monument to Yermak in
the town of Tobolsk, which was built on the very spot where
he gained his first decisive victory over Kutchum. It is
inscribed with the dates of that memorable event, and of the
unfin'tnnate day when he found his death in the floods ef
the Irtysch. His real monument, however, is all Siberia
from the Ural to the Pacific ; for as long as the Rnssiau
nation continues to exist, it will remember the name <it'
Yermak Timodajeff. The value of the man became ai
onc3 apparent after his deatli, for scarcely had the news dt
the disaster arrivt'd, Avhi'u the Russians immediately evacu-
ated Sibir, and left the country. But they well knew that
this retreat was to be but temporary, and that the present
ebb of their fortunes would soon be followed bv a fresh tide
IIISSIAN ADVAXCK.S IX SIliKUlA.
209
XY liiui-
iuUdvo-
utu till-
^\i; ami
rival of
•ivasiiii:'
ho en-
4'lit AN as
• lUUl'Cll.
tie terror
nforined
1 in til.'
s, kilU-.l
tlio fatal
warriors
it los'w'A
tliroui^'li
lat. But
0(1.
loro was
jarbariau
out t'urv,
t of tlieir
ascrilxMl
('JH)sitOil.
ormali in
-ot wliori'
u. It is
ml of till'
floods of
1 8il)oria
Russian
uaino of
'oamo at
. news ot
Iv ovaiMi-
Inow
pr
Irosli
tlait
t 'SCI it
ti.
of snec'oss. After a few years tlioy once more r 'tiinioil, as
the (letinitivo masters of tlie country. Their fii'st settloineut
WHS Tjumen, on the Tarn, aud before theeudof l')S7 Tobolsk
was I'ouuded. They liad, indeed, still mauy a eoufliet with
the Woo'uls aud Tartars, l)ut every effort of the natives to
sl)ake off the yoke proved fruitless.
As <>;old had l>een the all-powerful majjfuot which led the
S^paniards from Hispaniola to Mexico and Peru, so a small
tur-beariu;^ animal (the sable) attract<'d the Cossacks farther
ainl farther to the oast ; and althou<i;h the possession <»f fire-
arms <^'avo them an immense advantage ovi'r the wild in-
lialiitants of Siberia, yet it is astonishin<c with what trillin<x
nil. I US they subdued whole nations, aud ]ierhaps history
affords no other example of such a vast extent of territory
lia\iuuf boon conquered l)y so small a number of adventurers.
As (hey advanced, small wooden forts (or o.s/rof/.s-) were
l»ni!t in suitable places, aud became in their turn the startin<,'-
|.ii>ls for new expeditions. The followin<i' dates g-iv(^ the
lirst proof of the uncommon rapi<lity with which the tide of
(■(iiniuest rolled onwards to tJu' oast. Tomsk was foundiHl
in l(5n|. ; and the ostroi^ Jeniseisk, where the nei^hbotu--
in.;- nomads brou<i;ht their sable-skins to nuirket, in l(i21.
T!ic snow-shoes of the Tun^'uso, which they sometinu'S
-aw ornamented with this costly fur, iiuluced the Cossacks
t'l fullow tiieir hordes, of which nuiuv had come from the
niiildle and inferior Tuuf^uska. and thus, in 1(5;>0, Wassiljew
iva(li('(l the banks of the Lena. Ju l()o(), Jelissei Busa was
••'iiHuiissioned to asc<'n<l that miLi'hty river, and to impose
j'!.<^iik on all the natives of those (piarters. lie reached tln^
wi'^tiTu mouth of the Lena, anil after navi'^'atin;^' the sea for
1 u.nty-four hoiu'S came to the ( )lekma, which he ascended.
In liI-lS he discovere«l the Tana, on whose hanks he spent an-
iitlicr winter: and in Id:)!'. resuniiuL;' his voyau'e eastward by
S''a. lie reacheil the Tclu-ndoma. and wintoriuo' f'oi- two years
anionu" the ,Iid\ahirs, nia<le them also tributary to Kussia.
Ill that same year another party of Cossacks crossed the
Altai Mountains, and, traversing- forests and swamps, arrived
:ii till.' coasts of the inhos[)itablo Sea of (.)chotsk ; while a
third expedition disc<n-ered the Amui-, and built a, stronj;|
"-iioLi', called Albasin. on its left bank. 'JMie re]if>rt soon
1'
'210
TJIK ruLAIt WORLD.
spreiul tliiit Ihc vivcr rolled over i^-old-saiid, aiul colonists
ciiiiie lloekiiij4' to the s[)ot, both to collect tliest.' treiisures, aii<l
to enjoy tlie fruits of ii milder climate and of a more fruil-
fnl soil. JUit the Chinese destroyed the fort in 1(180, and
carried the ^-arrison prisoners to Peking".
Alhasin was soon after rebuilt; but as Russia at that time
had MO inclination to en^'a^H! in constant (quarrels with tlic
Celestial Empire about the possession of a remote desert, all its
pretensions to the Amur were <4'iven up by the treaty of Nert-
schinslv (1()81)). This aj^Teement, however, like so many others,
was doomed to last no lon<>'er than it pleased the more
powerful of the contractino- parties to keep it, and came to
nothin;^- as soon as the possession vi' the Amur territory
became an object of importance, and the iucreasin<4' weakness
of China was no lonj^vr able to dispute its possession. Thus,
when Count Nicholas Mourawietf was appointed CJovernor-
Ceneral of Eastern Siberia in 1817, one of his first cares was
to a[>piopriate or annex the Amur. He immediately sent ii
surveying- expedition to the mouth of the river, where, in 18-') 1 .
regardless of the remonstrances of the Chinese Goverinnent,
he ordered the stations of Nikolajewsk and Mariinsk to ln'
built; and in 185 the himself sailed down the Amur, wit li
a numerous flotilla of boats and rafts, for ^he purpose of
personally opening this new channel of intercourse with tlic
Pacitic. Other expeditions soon followed, and the Chinese,
finding resistance hopeless, ceded to Russia in the year 18-')S,
by the treaty of Aigun, the left bank of the Amur as far as
the influx of the Ussuri, and both its banks below the latter
river. Thus the Czar found some consolation for the losses of
the (*rimean campaign in the acquisition of a vast territory
in the distant East, which, though at present a mere wikkr-
ness, may in time become a flourishing colonv.
In l(!ll, a few years after the discovery of the Amur, thi'
Cossack Michael Staduchin formed a winter establishment
on the delta- of the Kolyma, which has since expanded \u\o
the town of Nishnei-Ivolynisk, and afterwards navigated tin'
sea eastward to Cape tSchelagskoi, which may be considered
as the north-eastern cape of Siberia.
In 1()I8 Semen Deschnew sailed from the Kolyma with tho
intention of reaching tlie Anadyr by sea, and bv this reniark-
'
ible vova^c
\v
hieh no one else, either l.iefore or alter him.
yiUJlGATlON oV KAMT.SCJIATKA.
211
)lonis1s
OS, and
e frviil-
^0, autl
•at time
■ith ill"'
•t, all its
.)f Novt-
^- others,
le more
eamc i«>
territory
^•oaknoss
. Thus,
overn<»r-
ares was
lY sent ii
, in IS") I,
.n'uuK'ut,
sk to he
mr, Avitli
iirpose "f
with tlu'
C'hinosc,
'AY 18.')S,
as far as
u! latlrr
h)sses of
terriiuvy
;o AviUh r-
niur, till'
llishiucnl
idoil ii>t'*
UitoA tl\''
i)nsidorct.l
with the
In.'i- iii'ii-
lias over perfVn'iiKMl — J/firoran'^J nud piisso<l throno-U the strait,
Avhieh properly should bear his iiauie, instead of Behriii^-'s,
who, sailiiii'' from Kauitsehatka iKjrtluvards in 1 72s', did not ^'o
Ix'vond East Ca[)e, Ix'inn" satisfied with the westerly trending-
of the cape beyond the i)roniontory. Some of Desehnew'.s coiu-
]piiiiions subsequently reached Kauitsehatka, and were put to
di-atli by the peoph.' of that peninsula, which was eonqiiered, in
](;;>!>, by Atlassotf, a Cossack otHcer who came from Jakutsk.
After havin;Li- thus rapitlly j^'lanced at the jiroj^'ress of the
J^tissian dominion from the I'ral to the Sea of Ochotsk, it
may not be luiinterestiuL;' to infjuire whether the natives had
reason to Idess the arrival of their new masters, or to curse
the day when they were first mad(> to understand the meanin*;-
of the word i/dssiil-ov tribute. Unfortunately, history t(dls us
tlial, wliih' the conquerors of Siberia were fully as bold and
])ri'severini;- as the companions of Cortez and Pi/arro, they
al.-o r(]ualled them in avarice and cruelty. Under their iron
yolvc whole r.ations, such as the Schelat'-i, Aniujili, and Omoki,
nulled away; others, as the Wog'uls, Jukahires, Kttriaks,
and ftiilinenes, were reduced to a scant}' remnant.
The history of the subjui^-ation of the Itiilmenes, oriuitives
"f Kamtschatka, as described by Steller, may sufftco to show
1)1 i\v the Cossacks made and lu)w they abused their conquests.
When Atlassoff, with i>nly sixteen men, came to the
river of Kamtschatka, the Itiilmene chieftain inquired,
tlir.iu^'h a Koriak intcn'preter, Avhat they wanted, and whence
tiny came; and receivcMl for answer, that the powerful
snvcrcii^-n, to whom the Avhole land belon<i'ed, had sent them
til Ii'vy the trilmte Avhich they owed him as his snbjccts.
The chieftain was naturally astonished at this information,
and offi'riny- the strang'crs a present of costly furs, he rc-
• lUi'sted them to leave the country, and not to repeat their
vi<it. But the Cossacks i
lit i>ro]ter to remain, and
huilt a small wooden fort, Verchnei Ostro;^', whence they
till on the nein-libouriny villay,'es, robbino- or destroying' all
tlii'v could lay hands upon. Exasperated by these acts
[liil
nienes resolved to attack the fort ; but as tl
i(> Avary
'•'ssacks hiid Icept up a friendly intercourse with some of
'li''iii. and had moreover iny'raliated thfniseh'c
w
Ith th
»f tl
\\|'iiHii. Ilic plans of Jhen- enemies were always revca
led tl
l> 2
212
TIIK r01,AR WOULD.
them in proper time, and led tci a still greater tyranny.
At leng'tli the savaj^-es appeared before the ostro;:^ in sncli
overwhelming- nnmbors, that the (^ossacks began to losf
courage; yt by their superior taetien they finally managnl
to gain a complete victory, and those Avho escaped their
bullets were either drowned or taken prisoners, and then put
to death in the most cruel manner.
Convinced that a lasting security was impossible as long
as the natives retained their numbers, the Cossacks lost im
opportnnity of goading them to revolt, and then butchering
as many of them as tliey could. Thus, in less than forty
years, the Kamtsehatkans were reduced to a twelfth part of
their original numbers: and the C<jssacks, having made a
solitude, called it peace.
In former times, the nomads of the North used freely
to wander with their reindeer herds over the tundra, bnt
after the conquest they were loaded with taxes, and continnl
to certain districts. The consecpience was that their rein-
doer gradually pei ished, and that a great number of Avanderinu'
herdsmen were now conq elled to adopt a lisherman's lil'e-
a change fatal to many.
It would, however, be nnjust to accuse the Russian (Toveni-
ment of having wilfully sought the ruin of the aborigine!
tribes ; on the contrary, it has constantly endeavoured t<>
protect them against the exactions of the Cossacks, and. in
order to secure their existence, has even granted them tin?
exclusive possession of the districts assigned to them. Tims
the Ostjaks and Samojedes, the Koriaks and the Jaknt>.
have their own land, their own rhers, forests, and tin dii.
But if it is a common saying in European Russia, 'tli;it
heaven is high, and the C*zar distant," it may easily Ik'
imagined that bevond the Ural the weak indiyvnous tiilns
found the law but a very inetUeieut l)arrier against tli"
rapacity of their conquerors.
Thus, in s[)ite of the (lOvernnuMit, the i/n.^snk was iini
unfrequently raised, nnder various pretences, to six or ten
times its origiu.il amount ; and the natives were, besides,
obliged to bring the best of their produce, from consideralil''
distances, to the ostrog.
Nor could the Governmeni prevent the accumulation I't
usurious debts, nor the leasing of the best jiasturages or fisli-
RUSSIAN SClKNTiriC KXPKDITIOXS
'213
vrnnnv.
in sucli
to lost'
v.inugfil
hI tlic'ii"
:lien put
as louji
lost 11"
itclii'i-iiiLi-
laii forty
\\ part <'f
; uunU' a
ic'd fnn'ly
ulva, but
I coutiut'il
iieir n-iii-
vantlL'riu<i'
m's lite— •
II ({ovevu-
iV>ori^'iiKil
VOUVO'l ti>
s, anA, in
tlu'iu tli<'
ui. Tl.us
(• Jal<ut>.
,1(1 tui'lvi.
Isia, 'that
1 easily 1"'
i.us ti'i'"'^
taiiist th"
was i\i'i
iix or ten
hesiilt's,
IcvaVa.
iisu
In
lation
Ics or
iiiu'-f^tations for a triflin<jf sum quite out of proportion to their
value; so that the natives noloni^cr had the means of feetlint;
their herds, and sank deeper and deeper into poverty.
And if we consider, finally, of what elements Yerniak's
baud was ori^'inally composed, wo can easily conceive that,
under such masters, the lot of the Siberian natives was by
Jill means to be envied.
The year 178 !• opens a new epoch in the history of Silieriau
discoveries. Until then they had been merely undertaken
lur pcU'poses of tratlie: bold Cossacks and Promyschlenniki
lor fur-hunters) had ^n-adually extended their excursions to
ill' 8ea of BehriuLi' ; Imt noAV, for the tirst time, scientific
expeditions were sent out, for the more accurate investig'a-
ti'iii of the northern coasts of Siberia.
Prontschischtschew, who sailed westwards from the Lena
to circumnavigate the icy capes of Taimui-laud, was accom-
]iaiii('d by his y<juthful wife, who wintered with him at the
Olenek, in 72^ of/ of latitude, and in the following summer
tiMik ]»art in his fruitless endeavours to double those most
iiorthevnly points of Asia, lie died in ecuisecpienee of the
t'litigues he had to undergo, and a tew days after she followed
liiui to the grave. A similar exam})le of female devotion is
)iot to be met with in the annais of Arctic discovery.
After Prontschischtschew *s d(>ath. Lieutenant Chariton
l;;i[itew was appoint<'d to carry out tli<' project in whi<di the
i'uiiier had failed. Having Ikmmi repulsed by tln^ drift-ice,
lie was oldiged to winter on th(» ("hatauga (17;!!)-I0) ; l)ut re-
newed the attempt in the following sunimei-, which however
ex])osed him to still severer trials. The vessel was wrecked
in the ice ; the crew reached the shore with ditticultv, and
liiiiuy of them perished, from fatigue and fainint\ before the
rivers were sufficiently frozen to enable the feelde survi-
vors to return to their former winter-station at Cliatanga.
Notwithstanding the hardships which he antl his party had
endured, Laptew prosecuted the survey of the promontory in
the following spring.
'"netting out with a sledge-party across tlu> tundra on
A^iril 21, 1711, he reached Taimur Lake on the Moth;
iiiul following the Taimur river, as it flows from the lake,
ascertained its mouth to be situated in Int. 75° .'>r)' N. On
•J 1 4
TIIH 1'(>LAI{ WOIMJ).
Aiio'u.st 21), lie Siifely roturnod to Jeiii;U'islc, iift<'i' ono
of the most dilHcult voyugvs ever pertovim'd l»y iiiiui. The
resolution with which he overciime ditticiiities, and his i)er-
S(n'(,'riiuc'o ;unid Iht; severest distresses, entitle hini to a hi^li
rank anion*^' Aretie discoverers.
While Chariton Laptew was thus o-aininy distinction in
the wilds of Taimurland, his brother, Diniitri Laptew, Avas
busy extending' f^'eoyTaphical Icuowledye to the east of the
Lena., lie (h)ubled the l-^i'iiifdl-iioss, wintered t»n the banks
of the Indi^irka, surveyed the Bear Islands, passed a second
Avinter on the borders of the Kcdynia; and in a fourth
season extended his survey of the coast to the Baranow Rock,
wliich he vaiidy endeavoured to double during' two successive
summers. After havin<j;' passed seven years on the coasts ol"
the Polar (Jcean, he returned to Jakutsk in 1 7 I-).
Fourteen years later, Schalanr(»w, a merchant of Jakutsk,
Avho sailed fnnn the Jana in a, vessel built at his own expense.
at length succeeded in (h>ubling" the Baranow Rock, and pm-
CJeded eastwards as far as Cape ychela;4sk(»i, which prevented
his farthei" prog'ress. After twice wintering- on the dreary
Kolyma, he resolved, with admirable perseverance, to make a
third attempt, but his crew woidd no longer follow him.
From a second sea-journey, Avliich he undertook in 1701 to
that cape, he did not return. ' His unfortunate death is the
more to be himented,' says Wrangell, 'as he sacriticed liis
property and life to a disinterested aim, and united intelli-
gence and energy in a remarkable degree.' ( )n his map, the
whole coast from the Jana to Ca[ie Schelagskoi is markeil,
Avith an accuracy Avhich does him the greatest honom-. Jii
1785, Billings and .Sarytchew Avere equally unsuccessful in
the endeavour to sail round the cape Avhich had defeated all
SchalauroAv's endeavours ; nor has the voyage been accom-
plished to the present day.
As the sable had gradually led the Russian fur-hunters
to Kamtschatka, so the still more valnalde sea-otter gave
the chief impulse to the discovery of the Aleutic chain and
the oi)i)osite continent of America. When AtlassoAV and his
band arrived at ICamtschatka by the end of the seven-
teenth ceiitui'}, tiiey found tlie sea-ol(ep abounding oj' its
coasts ; 1)ut the f'ni'-hunters chased it so eagerly that, before
the middle of the eighteenth centurv, tlicv had entirelv extir-
TMSCOVKUIKS OF FJISSI AN XAVKiATORS.
il.j
>r one
. The
lis JHT-
I a hiL^'li
•tioii ill
iW, AVils
: ul' til.'
e bunks
I SOCOlltl
I fovivtli
iccossivc
coasts of
Jakutsk,
OXpOllSt'.
and i>i'<'-
)re vented
le dreary
) make a
(iw liini.
17()1 io
itli istlic
itieed liis
d intelli-
nitip, tlie
nuirkeil,
lour. In
cssful in
feated all
1 accoia-
•-liunters
ter •j.'avc
liaiii aiul
V and his
> sevrii-
<_)• ( ) 1 1 its
Lt, before
dv extir-
pated it in iliat eountry. On ]jehrin<;-'s second voya^'e of
discovery (1711-12), it was apiin found in considerable
iiiiinhers. Tschiri^'ow is said b» have brouj^lit ba(dv 1H»0
skins, and on Behriny-'s Island 7O0 sea-otters — wliose skins,
accoi-dinij;- to present prices, would bo worth about 2(),('00/.
— were killed almost Avithout troubk'. Thest^ facts, of c(»nrs(\
ciicouraLi'ed the merchants of Jakulsk and Frkutsk io under-
tiike new exi)editions.
(Jenerally, several of them formed an association, wlii(di
littc<l out some hardlv seaworthy vessel at Ocliotslc, whore
also the captain and the crow, consistin^• of fnr-huntei-s and
other adventurers, were hin.'d. The expenses of such an ex-
(ifdition amounted to the considerable snm of about oO,()U()
r(iid>les, as p)ack-horses had to trauspoi't a <4'reat part (»f the
necessary outfit all the distance from Jakutsk, and the
vessel ^•enerally remained four or five years on the voyay'e.
Passing' throne-h one of the iCurih' Straits, these ex}»editions
saih^l at first alon*"- the east cf>ast of Kamtschatka, harterinn'
saltles and sea-otters for reindeer-skins and otlier articles;
ami as the ])recious furs 1>ecame more rare, ventunHl out
farther into the Eastern Ocean. Thus ]\ficha«d Nowodsikoft'
discovered the Western Aleuts in 17I-'): Paikoff the Fox
isla licks in 1 7-'>0 ; Acb'ian Tolsfych almost all the islands of
the central i^roup, wlii(di still bear his name, in I7<10;
Ste[dien (jllottoff the island of Kadialc in 1 7<!-5. and Ivrenit/in
the peninsula of Aljaska in 17(58. When we consich'r the
sianty resources of these liussian navie-ators, the bad con-
dition of their miserable barks, their own imperfect nautu'al
Kiinwledn'e, and the inhospitalde nature of tln^ seas which
till y traversed, we cannot but acbnire th(Mr intrepidity.
1 11 1 he Polar Sea there are neither sables U( a* otters, and thus
ilie islands lying to the north of Siberia might have remained
iiiikiiowu till the present day, if the search after maiimioth-
teetli had not, in a similar mainiei-, led to their discoverv.
Ill March 1770, while a merchant of the name of rjiichow
was busy collecting fossil ivory about Capo Svatoinoss, he saw
!i large herd of deer coming over the ice from the north.
I'esolute find courageous, he at once resolved to follow
tlit'ir tracks, and after a sledge-j<uirney of seventy versts, he
'■auie to nn island, and twenty versts fui'ther reached a
^•'I'fiiid island, at whiidi, owing to the roughness ol" the ice,
21G
TIIK I'ULAR WOULD.
liis excursion tt'riniiiiitt'd. Ho Sfiw ouono-h, lunvovor, of the
ricIiMcss of tilt' two ishmds in numiinotli-tct'tli, to show liini
tliiif iinollit'i- visit woiiM be n valimblc siK'('nliiti(tn ; tnnl on
ni.iKiiiy- his i-cpovj to t lie linssiun ( iovcrnnicnt, ht'obtuincd iin
«'X('insiv(' privilcLT!' to d'v^ tor niiininioth-hont'S on thu islands
wliich lit' had disrovcn'tl, and t(» \vhi(di his name has been
•^ivcn. [n the sunniu'i" of l77o hf consiMjncntly rctiivncd.
ami asct'i'taiiu'd the existence of a ihird island, iniudi lar;;;er
than the otla-rs, nioinitainous, ami liavinL"- its coasts covei'ed
with di'il't W(»od. He then went Ijaidc to tin' tirst island,
wintered there, and retiu'ned to Tstjansk in sprinj^-, witli ;i
vahiiihle cartel* <»t' niannnolli tnsks.
There hardly exists a more remarkahle article «tf coni-
niorce than these remains ot an extinct animal. In North
Siberia, alonij," the Obi, the Jenisei, the Lena, and their
tributaries, from lai. A.S" to 70^, <_»r aloni;' tlu' shores of the
Polar Ocean as far as the American side of B(dirinm' Strait, the
remains of a species of elephant ai'e found ind)edded in the
frozen soil, or beconio exposed, by the annual tluiwino- mid
crund-)lin<_i' of the riwr-banks. Dozens of tnsks are fre-
quently found too'ether, but the most astonishin;^' de2)o>it
of mammoth-bon(^s occurs in the liiichow IshiUids, where, in
some localities, they are accumulated in such quantities us
to form the (diief substance of the soil. Year after year tlic
tusk-hunters work every summer at the clilfs, witliout ])r('-
ducint^* any sensible diminution of the stock. The solidly-
frozen matrix, in which the l)ones lie, thaws to a certain
extent annually, allowing- the tnsks to drop out, or to lie
quarried. In 1821, 20,000 lbs. of fossil ivory were procuivd
from the island of New Siberia.
The ice in which the mammoth remains are indjiMldcd
souK'times preserves their entire bodies, in spite of llu'
countless aj^vs which mnst have ela}»sed since they walked on
earth. In 1700 the carcase t)f a maninioth was discovereil.
so fresh that the do«4-s ate the flesh for two suunners. Tlic
skeleton is preserved at St. Petersburg-, and specimens of
the w-oolly hair — proving- that the clinuite of Siberia, though
then no tloubt much milder than at present, still required
the protection of a warm and shagg-y coaf — were presented to
the chief museums of I]ur
ope.
AlU'TIC FOSSILS.
•J 17
I*, (tf till'
\()\V l<il)i
; iinil (III
iiiiit'd iiii
(i isliinds
luiS Ix'fll
Lvtnriit'd.
•li lavii-rr
•i covert •! I
it isliiiul.
jl', with a
ol' ('dlii-
In North
iiid thi'ir
I'S of till'
^trait,thl•
I'd ill till'
wiii^' and
are tVr-
j; d('po>d
wlien'. ill
it
itios as
year tln'
lout ]>i'o-
solidly-
ccvtaiu
ir to 111'
»ro(.Mii'i'il
imbcddi'il
of the
ralkt'd nil
SCOVOl'i'il.
'rs. TIk'
■inious of
U thou;^!i
reciuivii.l
sented tn
Tlu" remains of a rhinoceros, very siniihir to the Indian
sjieeies. are likewise found in o-reat nunihers alon^'the sliores,
i>r on the steep and .-^audv river-banks of Northern Siberia,
;i]nii^- witli those <»f fossil s])eeies of the horse, the nuisk-ox,
and the bist»n, whieh have now totally forsaken the Aretic
wilds.
The Archi]»ela^'o of New Siberia, situated to the north of
llii" Liiehow Islands, was discovered by Sirowatsky in 1S(HI,
and since then scientitically i'X]»lore(l by lledenstri'tni in
I^OS. and Anjou in \^'l']. These islands are remarkable n<»
li'ss for the numerous bones of horses, butfaloes, oxt'ii, and
sheep scatt(>red over their desolate shon'S, than for the vast
(juantities of fossil-wood imbedded in their Koil. The hills,
which rise to a considerable altitudi', consist of horizontal
lii'ds of sandstone, alternating.;- with bituminous beams or
trunks of trees. On ascending- them, fossilised charcoal is
everywhere met with, encrusted with an ash-c(>h)ured matter,
which is S(» hard that it can scarcely be scraj)ed otf with a
knife. On the summit there is a lony* row of beams resem-
liliiii^' the foriiKM', l)ut fixed perpendicularly in the sandstone.
'J'he ends, which ])roi(>ct from seven to ten inches, are for the
most piirt broken, and the whole has the appearance of a
ruinous dyke. Thus a robust forest veo-ctation once ilou-
rished where now onlv hardv lichens can be seen; and nianv
herbivorous animals feasted on <4Tasses where now the rein-
deer finds but a scanty sup[»ly t>f moss, and the polar bear is
the sole lord of the dreary waste.
'ihe A! iiali Shtui)
■P
'■lOfK.
>-v - ~«<K.—
rii'nui mil l:';Xllc3 I \\ lou'L'.
'^.
C'llAI'TKIf W'll.
SIliKIM \ 1'ri;-TI!.\I)K AND (JOF-D-DKiC f \(iS.
SilMi'i.i Its iiiiirirlisc l-'.\t(iil alhl ( 'iipaMli! i> > 'I'lif I'Ail.s — .Mi'iil '•■■liikdil'
|)(il^iiir(iiiky - .Miinii'li 'I'lir CriiiiiiiaN 'I'lir tVcr Silji'riaii iVasaiit Mxl I'ciii'-'
iillliat ami Cold - iMir-lnai-iiiii .\iiiiiial>— 'I'll.' SaMr The I'li'iiiinc — The Si Ik tI an
Wia/.cl -TlicSca-OlIri' Till' r.lai'k l"ux 'I'll.' I.\ ii\ - 'I'lic S'|iiii-rrl 'l'lM■^■an••
iiiL^lIai'i — 'I'hi' Suslik liu]iiiriaiiri' III' I hr T'lii' Ti'adc fur the Nm-ilicrn l'i'M\iih'i »
(.r Ihe l!iis>i:iu l-'iiipirc 'i'hc (l(_iM i»i;^L;iiin> nf I'lastciMi Silicri.i Tlic Taivii
- I'.\['('n<cs ami nilticiilties ol' ;-cai'i'liiiiu' I'^xpcilit inns — Cosls of I'i'imIiu'c and
(•iinriniius I'roliis dl' -iiri'c^>t'iil SpienlatDr^ 'i'hcir scii.--cli >s l'!.\trava;riini"('-
l''ir.st l)isri>vci'y ol' linM in ihc I'ral .M(]iuilaiii< - .Jaknu !iw and jlinii't"'
Nisliiu-Tnt;;il>k.
SfBERTA is at least tliivtv tiiiu's inovo (>xtensi\ llian
CJreat Britain and Irclaml, l)ut its scanty ])(>])nlal ini
forms a miserable contrast to its enornidus si/.c. (,'ontainiiiu
scarcely three millions of inhabitants, it is comparatively
three hnndred times less peopled than the liritish Islands.
This small i)opulati<ni is, mor<'ov(M", very unccpiiilly disti'i-
bnted, eonsistint>' ohielly of Rnssiiins and Tartars, who have
settled in the .south or in the mildei* west, alon^' the rivers anil
the principal (lioronulit'arcs which lend tVoni the tcrrit<try <d'
>■»
L^
"aI I'rlll' ~
Silicriiiii
ic \';irv
l'lM\lll.'l -
IV Taiv I
hIik'c aiiil
I I 1111 I
)ul:it ii'i
liiiuiiiu'
i-ii lively
sliimls.
(listri-
lo Imve
crs iiiiil
itorv "t
■$.:^^c%M^:5^
«^.fr~^—
-Aiir.i: AMI .\ui IK 1 1>\.
mm
K i
KXII.HS IN SinKIUA.
•210
Hill' larg'O stream to the other. In tlie northern unci eastern
districts, as far as they are occnpied, the settlements are like-
wise almost entirely Cimtined to the river-banks; and tlins
lli(^ o-reater part of tht? enormons forest-lands, and of the
iiitci-minable tnndrus, are either entirely nniidiabited by
man, or visited only by the hnntsman, the ^-ohl-diu-o-or, or
tilt mipTatory sava<j;e.
And yet Siberia lias not been so ni^-o-ardly treated by
Nature as not to be able to sustain a far more considerable
[lepulation. In the south there are thousands of square
miles fit for cultivation; the nundjers of the herds and flocks
iiii^^ht be increased a hundredfold, and even the climate
would become milder after the labour of man had subdued
llie chilling- influences of the forest and the swamp. But it
is easier to express than to realise the Avisli to see Siberia
more populous, for its reputation is hardly such as to tempt
the free colonist to settle Avithin its limits ; and thus the
Ixussian Government, Avhich would willine-ly see its more
temperate reg-ions covered with flourishing' towns and vil-
lages, can onl}- expect an increase of population from the
slow growth of time, aided by the annual influx of the invo-
luntary emigrants which it sends across the Ui-.il to the
East.
Many a celel)rated personage has already been doomed to
trace this melancholy path, particularly during the last cen-
tury , Avlien the all powerful-favourite of one period Avas not
seldom doomed to exile by the next palace revolution. This
fat(^ befel, among others, the famous Prince Mentschikolf.
Ill a covered cart, and in the dress of a peasanr, the confi-
'leiitial niinistei' of Pett.T the (ireat, the man who for years
li;iil ruled the vast Russian Ihnpire, was conveyed into per-
pi'tual banishment. His dwelling was now a siini)le hut, and
the s[)ade of the labourer re]»laced tin' pen of Uio s;tatesman.
I'emestic misf<»rtunes aggravated his cruel lot. His wife*
died iVoni the fatigues of the iournev ; -ofie of his daughters
seen after fell a victim to tlie smallpox; his two other
' hildren. Avho were attacked by the same nnilady, recovered.
He himself died in the year 1729, and Avas buried near his
diniL'Iiter at Beresow, flie seat of his exile. Like Cardimil
NVol.->ev, after his fall he remend)ered (o»d, whom he had
sn-'-mm^^i^^mm
920
THE I'OLAK WOKLD.
for^'otton cluriii<,' the swelliufj tide of his prosperity. Hy
considered liis punishment as a blessino-, -which showed hini
the way to evtn-liistin^' luippiness. He built a chapel, assist-
ing* in its erection with his own hands, and after the ser-
vices <4"ave instruction to the conj;^Te^'atiun. The iidiabitants
of lion 'SOW still honour his meniorv, and revere him as a
saint. They were continued iu this belief by the circum-
stance that his body, havin<^ been dishiterred in 1821, was
found in a state of perfect preservation, after a lapse of
ninety-two years.
Our (lay, as his daufj'liter walked throu<i,'h the villa<^e, she
was accosted l)y a peasant from the window of a hut. This
peasant was Prince Doli^-orouky, her father's enemy — the
man who had caused liis banishment, and was now, iu his
turn, doomed to taste the bitterness of exile. Soon after,
the princess and her br(jther were pardoned by the Empress
Anna, and Dol<^"oroulvy took i)ossessiou of theu* hut. Youn;L;"
Mentschikoif was tinally reinstated in all the honours and
riches of his father, and frcmi him descends, iu a direct line,
the fannnis defender of Sebastopol.
Marshal Miinich, the favourite of the Empress Anna, was
doomed, in his sixtieth year, to a Siberian exile, when Eliza-
beth ascended tlie throne. His prison consisted of three
rooms — ^itne for his «4"uards or ^'aolers, the sec(»nd for their
kitchen, the third for his own use. A wall twenty feet hi^li
prevented him from enjoying" the view even of the sky. Tin-
man who had once ^^'overned Russia had but half a rouble dailv
to spend : but the love of his wife— who, alihouyh fifty-livi'
years old, had the coura^-e and the self-denial to accompaiiv
him in his banishment — alleviated the sorrows (»f Ids exili'.
The venerable couple s])eut twenty-one years in Siberia, and
on their return iVom exile, liftv-two children, urandchildrcii,
and g"reat-^Ta)idchildren wore assend)led to meet them at
^loscow. Tlie revolution which placed Catherine the Second
on the throne, had nearly once more doomed the octopfenii-
riau statesman to banishment, but he fortunately weathered
the st(U-m, and died as y,-overnor of St. Petersburg*.
In this century, also, many an unfortunate exde, ouiltless
at least of i^-noble crimes, has been doomed to wander t"
Siberia. There many a soldier of the (jnnule annee has
CRIMIXAL KXILES.
'2-21
ty. U^
rved hi 1 11
I, tissist-
tlie ser-
labitaiits
ini as a
oireum-
H-ll, uas
lapse of
aL^e, slu'
it. This
my — the
,v, iii his
»ii after,
Empress
Youiil;'
Diirs and
rect line,
mm, Avas
Ml Elizii-
of three
for their
eet hiti'li
cy. Tlir
l)le daily
hfty-liw
eompany
lis exili'.
'ria, and
idiildren.
them at
Seeond
)<'to;4'ena-
eathercd
yiiiltiess
auder to
nna: has
II
(>nded his life; there still lives many a patriotic Polo,
Itanished for havin*;' loved his conntry 'not wisely but too
well ; ' there also the conspirators who marked with so bloody
an episode the accession of Nicholas, havi' had time to re-
flect on the d;
lect on tlio dann-ers of plotting- a^-aiiist the Czar.
Most of the Siberian exiles are, however, common crimi-
nals — such as in our C(juntry would be hung- or transported,
or sentenced to the treadmill : the assassin, the robber — to
Siberia ; the snniggler on the frontier, whose free-trade
principles injure the imperial exehequer — to Siberia ; even
the vagabond Avho is caught roaiuing, and can give no satis-
factory account of his doings and intentions, receives a fresh
[lassport — to Siberia.
Thus the annual number of th(^ exiles amounts to about
l:2.(i(M>. who, according- to the gravity of tliidr offences,
iire sent further and further eastwards. ()ii an aviTag(\
every week sees a transport of about -'Joo of tliese • uu-
fortunates,' as they are termed by popular compassion,
jiass through Tobolsk. About one-sixth are immediately
imrdoned, and the others soi'ted. Murderers and burglars
are sent to the mines of Nertschinsk, after having Ijeen
treated in Russia, before they set out on their travcds, with
lifty lashes of the knout. In fonner times their nostrils
used to be t(n-n off, a barbarity which is now ]io longcr
practised.
Accordingto Sir George Simpson's 'Narrative (d'a -Tourney
Round the AVorld ' (ISl?), Siberia is tlie liest penitentiary in
the world. Every exile Avho is not consi(h're(l ba<l enoiigli
for Ihe mines — tliose blacdc abysses, af whose entrance, as ,it
iliat of Dante's hell, all hope must lie left bidiind recei\cs a
piece of land, a hut, a horse, two cows, the iiecessmy aLi'ri-
cultiiral implements, and provi>ions {'>>y a yeai'. The first
ihrcM' y(.'ars h<.' has no taxes to piiy, ami. diiriiiii' the fullowing
ten. only the half (d' the usual asses^menl. 'I'hus. it' he
ehoose to exert himself, he Inis every reason to hope tor an
improvement in his condition, and af the same time \\-,\r
contributes to keep him in the rigid jiatli : for he well knows
that his first trespass would infalliljly conduct him to the
tninos, a by no means agreealde prospect. I'ndei- the in-
lluence <d' these stimulants, manv an exile ;iltaiiis a degree of
222
TIIK rOLAll WORLD.
prosperity wliioli would have boon quite beyond his reiicli had
he ronuiined in Enrc)i)Oiin Rnssia.
Hof'niann yives a less favourable account of the Sibeviiiii
exiles. Jn his opinion, the prospority and civilisation of the
country has no greater obstacle than the mass of criminals
sent to swell its population. In the province of Tomslv,
Avhich seems to be richly stocked ■with c\ilprits of the Avorst
description, all the wag-g-oners beloiifv to this class. Th(\v
endeavoured to excite his compassion by hypocrisy. ' It was
the will of God ! ' is thoir standiuo- phrase, to which they tried
to give a greater emphasis by turning- up tlie Avhites of their
ey(.'s. But, in s])ite of this pious resignation to the Divine
will, Ilofniaiui never met with a worse set of drunkards, liars,
and thieves.
As to the free Siberian peasant, who is generally of exile
extraction, all travellers are agreed in his praise. ' As soon
as one crosses the Ural,' says Wrangoll, ' one is suri)rised
by the extreme friendliness and good-nature of the inhabit-
ants, as much as by the rich vegetation, the well-c\dtivated
holds, and the excoUent state of tln^ roads in the southoru
part of the government of Tolxdsk. Our lug-gage could be loi\
without a guard in the opcni air. " Neboss ! " " Fear not ! "
was the answer when we expressed some apprehension;
" there are no thieves among us." This may appear strange,
but it must be remembered that the Tomsk waggoners, de-
scribed above, are located far nK)re to the east, and that
every exiled criminal has his prescribed circuit, the bounds
of which he may not pass without incurring- the penalty of
being sent to the mines.
According to Professor Ilani'^en,* the Siberian peasants
aro the finest men of all Russia, with constitutions of iron.
"With a sheepskin over their shirt, and their thin linen
trousers, tlu^y bid dellanco to a cold of '\if and more. They
have nothing of the dirty avarice of the Eurojiean Russian
boor; theylnive as much land as they choose i'or cultivation,
and the soil furnishes all they require for their nourishment
and elothing. Their cleanliness is exenqdary. Within tli(^
last thirty years the gold-diggings have siunoAvhat spoilt liii.^
' 'I'lMvds ill >iii.Ti;i, 1S2M l,s:i().
Ri:.soL'Krf:>^ of siijkkia.
'2-23
reaeli had
Siberia n
oil of tlio
criiiiiiijil.s
f Tomsl.,
the Avorst
!s. They
' It was
hey tried
i of their
le Divine
rds, liars,
' of exi](!
' As soon
surprised
iiihaljit-
iiltiviited
SOlltllCl'U
(l be left
r not ! "
lensioii ;
.straii<4-e,
lers, de-
iid thiit
bounds
lalty (d'
feasants
of iron.
n linen
They
■Inssian
ivation.
slnnciil
lin fill'
ill tliis
slate fd' primitive siniplieity, yet even llofniann allows that
lilt' Wi'st-Siberian peasant has retained nmeh of the honesty
and hospitality for which he was justly celebrated.
Besides ag'riculture, niinin;^-, ilshinj^', and hunliuLT, the
cavriay'e of merchandise is one of the (diief occnpatit)ns of
the Siljerians, and probably, in pi-o^Mivtion to the popnlation,
I tlu'r country ernidovs so lary-e a number of wa o-u'oners
;iii<l carriers. The enormous masses of C(>p[)"r, lead, iron,
and silver, produced by the Altai and the Nertschinsk moun-
tains, have to be conveyed from an immense distaiuje to the
Russian markets. The i^'old from the East-Siberian di^'f^'ino-s
is indeed easier to transpcu't, but the provisions retpiired by
t lie thousands of Avorknien em})loy«'d duriu'j,- th(> summer in
worlciii^' the auriferous sands, have to be brouo-lit to then),
fi'e(|ueutly from a. distance of nuiny hundred vei-sts.
The millions of furs, from the squirrel to the bear, likewise
iv(|uire considerable means of transj.ort; and, finally, the
iiii^lily imjiortant caravan-trade with China conveys thousands
of liales of tea from Kiacdita to Irbit. Siberia has indeed
many navig'able rivers, bitt a i^danco at the nuip shows ns iit
once, that they are so situated as to afford far less facilities
to eommerce than would be the case in a more temperate
( limate. They all ilow northwards into an inhosi)ital)le sea,
wliicli is for ever closed to navi^^'ation, and are themselves
ice-liniuid duriim- the ii'reater ]>art of the vear. EnornKms
distances separate them from each other, and there are no
navii>-able canals to unite them.
On some of the lartjer rivers, steamboats have indeed
lieeii introduced, and railroads are lulh-id of; but there can
lie no doubt that, for many a }ear to come, the cart and the
sled^'e will continue to be the chi(d' means of transport in a
country which, in conseqneiice <d' its jieculiar ^•eo^•raphical
jii'sition, is, even in its nion' southei'ii [larts, exp^tsed 1<> all the
lii^'oui-s of an Arctic winter.
Thus at Jakutsk (<>2'^ N. lat.^i, Avliicdi is situated but six
dei;i'ces further to the north than Kdinbui'i^h {~)o^ •')^'), tin;
mean temjx'rature of the coldest month ir; — In',, jnid mer-
curv a solid bodv dtirine' one-sixth iiart of the \car: while
al h'kiitsjs !.')2' Ki' X. hit.) silualed but iitth' fiirtlier to
'lie north than < >\ford ;.)1 Ki'), the t hei'indun-ier frctjueiith
224
TIIK POLAR WOULD.
1^
i I
falls to —00°, or even — 4(>°; temperatures which are, of
course, quite uuheanl of ou the bauks of the Tsis. For these
dreadful Aviuters in the heart of Siberia, and uuder coni-
l^aratively low de<,n'ees of latitude, there are various causes.
The laud is, iu the first place, au iuimeuse plain slautiu}jf to
the uortli ; moreover, it is situated at such a distauce from
the AHantic, that bi'voud the Ural the western sea-winds,
which briut^' warmth to our winters, assume the character
of cold land-wiu<ls ; and, finally, it merges in the south into
the hi<4-h Mono-olian plateau, which, situated 4,0(10 feetab(»ve
the level of the sea, has of course but little warmth to
impart to it iu Avinter ; so that, from whatever side the wind
may blow at that season, it constantly conveys cold. But
in summer the scene undt'ro'oes a total chauye. Under the
influence of the; sun circlin;^" for months round the North
Pole, Hoods of warmth are pimi'ed into Central Siberia, and
rapidly cause the thermometer to rise ; no nei|H"hl)<»urinn^ sea
refreshes the air with a cocding breeze; Avhether the wind
come from the heated MonL>'olian deserts, or sweej) over flic
Siberian ])lains, it imbibes warmth ou <n'ery side. Thus 1 1n-
terrible Avinter of Jakutsk is folloAved by an equally iinhio-
derate sununer (oH° :>'), so that rye and barley are able t<i
ripen on a soil Avhich a fcAv feet below the surface is p<.M'-
petually fro/en.
The boundless Avoods of Si1)eria harbour a nundjer of fnr-
bearino' animals, Avhose skins form c»ne of the chief products
of the country. Anions- these persecuted denizens of tlh'
forest, the sable (.l/^r/r/f.s ziltellinfi), Avhich closely resendjies
the pine-marten {Marfii^ nhictiim) in shape and size, deserves
to be particularly noticed, both for the beauty of its pelt, and
its inq)ortauce iu the fur-trade. Sleei)ini;- by day, tin* saLle
hunts his prey by niyht ; but tliou^'h he chiefly relishes animal
food, such as haivs, yovniti' birds, nuce, and ei>";4'S, he also feeils
on berries, and the tasteful seeds of the PiitKs ciuiJira. 1\
IS
es
favourite abode is near the banks of some riA'er, in bol
of the earth, or beneath the roots of trees. Incessant
persecuti<»n has ^'radually driven him into the most inai-
cessible forests; the <lays are no more when the Timiinse
hunter Avillinolv o-ave for a copjier kettle as nuiny sable-skins
as it would hold, or Avheu the Kamtschatkan trap])er could
SAMIJ:-IIU.\TIN(i.
1 are, of
For tlu'st'
lev coiii-
s causes.
LlltillJJf to
nee i'vo^n
'!l-Avill«ls.
•hiiruetcr
>ntli into
eet above
rmth to
the wind
lid. But
luler tlie
le Norili
eria, and
n'in<4' stM
the wind
over the
Thus ihr
\y i III III 1 1-
alde 1o
is per-
nf fni'-
)i'odncts
S of tlh'
esonddfs
deserves
lelt, iitid
lo S;d>li'
s iinini;d
Iso i'ccds
ni. His
in liolrs
ncessaiit
st inur-
runii'vi-i'
)le-skins
r eon Id
^
liisily cateli seventy ov ei^'hty sabli's in one winter: but Von
lliit'i- si ill estimates the iinimal produce of all Siberia at
1A,(M)0 skins. The finest are cauo-lit in the forests between
ihe Lena and the l^astern Sea, but Kanitsehatka fui'nislies
llie o-reater number. A slcin of the iinest quality is Avorth
!il)out forty roubles on the spot, and at least twice as
much in St. Petersburg- or Moscow, particularly Avhen the
Iiiiir is long, close, and of a deep blackish-broAvn, with a
lliiek brown underwool. Skins with lon<^ dark hair tipped
with white are highly esteemed, but still more so those
which are entirely black — a colour to which the Russians
'j;ivt' the preference, while the Chinese have no objection to
vctldish tints. In consequence of this difference of taste,
the saljles from the Obi, which are generally larger but of a
lighter colour, are sent to Kiachta, wdiile the darker skins, from
I'^astern Siberia, are directed to St. Petersburg and Leipsic.
The chase of the sable is attended with many hardships
and dangers. The skins are in the highest perfection at the
cf)nnnencenient of the winter ; accordingly, towards the end
of October, the hunters assemble in small companies, and
jiroceed algng the rivers in boats, or travel in sledges to the
place of rendezvous — taking with them provisions for three
or four months. In the deep and solitary forest they erect
llicir huts, made of branches of trees, and bank up the snow
round them, as a further protection against the piercing
wind. They now roam and. seek everywhere for the traces of
the sable, and. lay traps or snares for his destruction. These
aiv generally pitfalls, with loose boards placed over them,
Iniited with fish or flesh ; firearms or crossbows are more
rarely used, as they damage the skins. The traps must be
l'iv(iuently visited, and even then the hunter often finds that
a fox has preceded him, and left but a few worthless rem-
nants of the sable in the snare. Or sometimes a snowstorm
overtakes him, and then his care must be to save his own
lite. Thus sable-hunting is a continual chain of disa[)-
|iointnients and perils, and at the end of the si-ason it is
irc(|uently found that the expenses are hardly paid. Until
now tlif sable has been but riirely tamed. One kept in the
palace of the Archbishop of Tolxdsk was so ix'rl't'ctly do-
mesticated, that it was allo^ved <o sfroll about (he iown as it
o
P
mmmmmmmim
2 2(5
TilK I'OI.AK \V"i:i,I).
likoil. It was an areh-eiieiny of eats, niiHino- itself furious ly
oil its liiud-loL^'s as soon as it saw «.ine, and sliowin;^' the
yi'eatest diisire to liL^-lit it.
In foi'incr times the ermine {Miiyt(h( criuiocd] ranked next
\o tlie sable as the most vahiable i'ur-beariu<^ animal of
lh(> Siberian woods ; at ]>resent the sl<iu is Avortli no moi'i'
than from live to ei<^'ht silver kopeks at Tobojsic, so that tlie
Avhoh; ]»roduee t»f its chase hardly anjonnts to !i(l(»,()()0 roubli.s.
Th.'s little animal resembles in its ^'eneral appearance the
■weasel, bnt is considerably larger, as it uttaius a lenutli of
from twelve to fourteen inches. Its c<dour, which is reddi.^li-
brown in sumnn'r, becomes milk-wbiie (hu'iii;.;' the wiutci' in
the northern re<j;'ions, with the cxcejition of the tip of llic
tail, whicli always remains black, lis habits likewise <4rcaiiy
resemble those of th(^ Avi-asd : it is ('(ically alert in all lis
movements, and eijually courageous in dcfejidin^- itself uhm
attacked. It lives on birds, poultry, rats, rabbits, leverds,
and all kirids of smaller aniuralf-, and will not hesitate to
• attai-k a prey of much j^'reaier size tiian itself. Allhouijh
various species of ermine are distributed ovt ]• the whol,'
forest re<4-!on of the north, yet Siberia i^roduce^ the finest
skins. The larj^^'est come from the Kolynni, or art' brouulii"
to th(> fiiir of Ostrownoje by the Tcliulchi, who oljtain tjiem
from the coldest rei>'ions of America.
The Siberian weasel {Vir'rrn s'ihri-irii), -which is i)iuc]i
smaller than the ermine, is lilr(Mvis(> huute'l for its soft aiMJ
perfectly snow-white Avinter dre-s -the ti)) of the tail in'i
being- black, as in the latt( r.
The sea-otter, or kalan (/v///^ //'?//••• /"/r/s),the most vahialil''
of all the Hussian fur-bearini,'' animals, as ]\i) silver ronlil*'<
is the a.verag'e I'trice of a single skin, is nearly relate"! to iIp'
weasel tribe. The enormous \aiue srt upon the g-lossy, ji'f-
black, soft, and thick fur (jf the Icalan siiiliciently ex|)lains how
the Ilnssian huutm-s have followed his traces from Kaiii-
tschatka. to America, and aluio.vt entirely (-xt irj!ale<l him <'ii
many of the coasts and islands of i'ehriu'^'s S"a and ili<'
Northern Pacific, where he formerly abmindi'd. jlis haMH
very mneh resendde thost^ <if the seal; he haunts sea-was/ieil
rocks, lives nn^stly in the water, and loves to bask in the sim,
His hind-teel 1i,i\e ;i nuMnbraiii' skirtin;^' the outside oi' t '!•'
i
FVi; IJKAIMNC ANIMALS.
'2- 11
furiously
winy tlu'
iikeil lU'xt
lUiiuial of
. no nitiiv
. that tlio
i<» roubles,
iranee tlic
leiiLi'th of
IS ivdilish-
■ Av inter in
tip of lilt'
ise <>'iH'aiiy
in all its
tsclf when
s, k'V('rt.'ts,
lesrtaio 1>>
AiilM'U<:ll
the Avlioli'
the fint'St
re In'oito'lii"
)tain iluiii
is iintcli
s soil ami
1' tail 111'!
t vahtaM''
(>r roiiblt'^
llcil t<' lil''
i'lossy, ji'1-
plaiiis liow
oiii l\aiii-
cij liini I'll
a ami '1"'
His lial^iH
;(':i-wasiifn
in llie si'ii.
>i,lr. .-i'lli-^
rsterioi" toe, Ijlct,' lliat ol" a ^oose, and the chnin'atetl form
(if his ilexihle h(Mlv eiiahh'S liini to swim >vith the Lircatest
(•('li-rity. The hive (tf Ihc sca-<»ttri's lor llieir yonii'^- is so
prcal that they reckon lln-ir own lives as iiolliin^' to jirotect
ilii'in i'rom daiiy:''r; and Steller. uho Innl nioic o[i))ortnnities
iliaii any other naturalist for ohservino- tlifir hahits, alHriiis
tliat. when dcprivt.'d of their offspriii;;-. (hoii- i^rief is so sironn"
liiiit ill less Ihan a f<>rtni<rlit thev uaslc awav to slcelelous.
(hi their lliifht they cirry llieir yomi'_-- in their nioiitlis, or
drive them aloii^'' b(.'fore them. If they sueeeed in rea«diiiig'
the sea, they beu'iii to niocdv their halUed ])Ursuer, and exjiress
tliir iov by a^ varietv ^A' antics. .Sometimes Ihev raise
ih'.'Uisvdves iipri'jht in the water. risin;Lr and fallin;^' with IJu^
waves, or holdim;- a forejunv ovei' tlieir eyes, as if to look
j-harply at liim : or they throw thems(dvi'S <ni their bade,
ni.hliJtiL^" their breast ^vitli their forepnws: or east their
veiii);/ into tlie water, and cat'.-h tlii'iu au'aiii. I i ice a niotln-r
|!layin<4' with lier intant. The .sea-olrer not only .-an'iiasses
the liii-otter 1>y the biMuty of his fnr, lint also in si/.e, as h(.>
attains a hnie'th of JVom ti'Vee to four fee't t>.\<duslve of tlie
T lil. }lis«fooil C(»iisists of small lislie's. niolhises. and eriis-
l.iceoiis animal-^. Avljose liard caleareous eoverin^- his broad
<jriiider.s are well ada]>led to (.rush.
Next to the sea-<»tter, the bhudv fox, Avhose skin is (tf a rich
and >iiinin<j,'-blaek or tleep brown eoloiir. uith the loii;^cr <>r (X-
I'Tior hairs <»f a silvery-wliite. furnishes the most costly of all
tlie Siberian furs. Tlie averap' ])rice of a sinii'leskin amounts
to ()0 or 70 silver rouMes, and ri(di amateui's -will willinu'ly^
\K^\- :J(H» roubles, or (nen moi"('. Ibr tho.^e of Ih'st-rate quality.
Tlio skin of the Siberian red fox. ^viii(di ranks m.'xt in value,
is worth no more than 2'> roubles; the steel e'r(.'y winter
dress of the Siberian crossed fox (thus named tV<im the black
<re.~s on his shoulders), from 1<> to 12 r(tubles : and that of
ilie Arctic f(.>x, thouyh very warm and elose, no more than
<' er S.
Til'- bear fimilv likewise furnishes many sicins to the
^'ilxM'ian furrier. That of the younij,' br«e,\n bear [Cryirs
<irrl,in) is highly esieeme(l for the trimmino" of pelisses: but
that of the ohler anbnal has little value, and is used, like
th:it of th(^ l^dar liear, as a rue- rtr a foot-(doth in sledn-054.
I I
'i'JS
THE l'(»l,.\U WolJM).
The lynx is liij^-hly prized for ils vcrv lliick, soft, nist-
coloiuvd winter dress striped willi diirker I»r<>\vn. It attains
the si/e <»f the wolf, and is distiui^Miished from all other
uieinhers of the cat trihe, hy the; pencils <»t' loni; black hair
which tip its erect and pointed ears. It loves to lie in
ambush for the passing reindeer or elk, on some thick branch
at a considerable distance I'rom the ^'round. With one pro-
di^'ious l>onnd it leaps upon the back of its victim, sti-ikes
its talons into its llesh, and o[»eJis Avith its sharp teeth tlie
arteries of its neck.
Thon<,di shi^'ly of but little value, as a thousand of its
skins are worth no more than i»ne sea-otter, the squii-rd
plays in reality a far more important part in the Siberian
fur-trade than any of the before-mentioned animals, as tlir
total value of the yrey peltry which it furnishes to trade is
at least seven times <^'reater than that of the sable. Four
millions of grey s(piirrel-skins are, on an averaf;-e, annual I v
exported to China, from two to three millions to Eurojie.
and the home-consumption of the Russian Em[)ire is beyoml
all doubt still more considerable, as it is the fur most com-
monly used by the middle-classes. The European squirrels
are of inferior value, as the hair of their winter dress is still
a mixture of red and grey; in the territory of the Petschora.
the grey first becomes predominant, and increases in beauty
on advancing towards the east. The squirrels are caught in
snares or traps, or shot with blunted arrows. AnK>ng tin
fur-bearing animals of Siberia, we have further to iu>tice the
varying hare, whose Avinter dress is entirely white, except
the tips of the ears, which are black ; the Baikal hare ; the
ground-squirrel, whose fur has fine longitudinal dark-brown
stripes, alternating with four light-yellow ones; and the
suslik, a species of marmot, Avliose bi'OAvn fur, Avith Avhite
spots and stripes, fetches a high price in China. It occurs
over all Siberia as far as Kamtschatka. Its burruAvs arc
frequently nine feet deep ; this, hoAvever, docs not prevent its
being dug out by the hunters, Avho likcAvise entrap it in
spring Avlien it aAvakes from its Avinter sleep.
Summing together the total amount of the Russian fnv-
trade. Yon Baer estimates the A^alue of the skins annua llv
bi-onght to the market by the Russian Amerii^an Fur Cen -
SAM') or I'l'KS.
329
(it't, nist-
It iittiiiiis
all oth< r
)la<'lv liiiii'
to lie ill
ck briiiicli
one [ti'd-
111, strikes
ledh ill.'
uul ol' it^
e siinirvfl
[» Siberian
ills, as ilie
to trade is
ble. Four
.', annual l_v
<) Europe,
is lieyoiul
most coiii-
II squirrels
ivss is still
Potscliora,
in beauty
cauglit ill
LlllOn<4' tlie
notice till'
ite, except
liare ; tlie
ark-brow II
; and tlie
with Avliitc
It occurs
lUTows arc
prevent its
itrap it in
ussiaii I'ur-
is annua n_v
Fur ('e.ir-
p:iiiy al ball' a niillioii of silver I'onblcs, ibe produce of
l';iiro[)ean Jlussia at a million and a bait', and tbat ol' Siberia
at three millions. As an'ricnlture deereases on a<lvaneini4" to
tlie north, the cbase of (be fur-bearinj;' animals increases in
iiiipoi'tan('(». Thus, in tlu' most iiortberii f^'overnments of
lan-opean liussia — W'jatka, \Vol(»;^da, Olonc/, and v\.reban<4;(d
— it is one of the ebief occupations of tbe inbabitanls. In
Olonez about I'our hundred bears are killed every year, and
I lie immense forests of \Volo;4(Ja furnish from one bundred
tn two bundred black foxes, three hundred bears, and tlii'ee
millions of sijuirrels.
Althou^'h tbe sablo and the soa-otter are not so iiuinerous
;is ill former times, yot, upon the whole, the llussian i'ur-trado
is in a very tlourishin^' condition ; nor is there any fear of its
deereasiny', as the less valuable skins — such as those of tbe
sipiirrels and hares, wbicdi from tbeir numbers weii^b most
heavily in the balance of trade — are furnished by rodents,
\\]ii<'h multijily very rapidly, and lind an inexhaustible supply
nf food in the forests and pasture-<^Tounds (»f Siberia.
Tbe chase of the fur-bearino- animals ati'ords the North
Siberian nomads — such as the Ostjaks, Jakuts, Tun^usi, and
Saiiiojedes — the only means of procuring the foreij^'ii articles
tliey require ; hence it taxes all their in^vnuity, and takes up a
,i;i'eat deal of their time. On the river-banks and in the f( »rests,
tliey lay innumerable snares and traps, all so nicely adajtted
ti) the size, stren^;*th, and peculiar habits of the various
( reaturcs they are intended to capture, tbat it would be
almost impossible to improve them. An industrious Jakut
will lay about five hundred various traps as soon as the first
snow has fallen; those he visits about five or six times in the
(•nurse of tbe winter, and generally linds some animal or
"ilier in every ei^'hth or tenth snare.
Tbe [iroduce of bis cbase be briii^is to tbe nearest fair,
where the tax-gatherer is waitin<^' for the yassak, which is now
P'lierally paid in money (five paper roubles = four sbillin^s).
\\"\\h the remainder of his y'ains he purchases iron kettles,
I'rd cloth f<ir hemming' his ii'armeuts, powder and shot, rye-
iiieal, o-lass pearls, t<.>bacco, and brandy — whicb, th<»uy-h for-
l>idden to be sold publicly, is richly sui»plied to him in
private — and then retires to his native wilds. IVoni the
S30
Tin; I'oi.Ai: wmn.f*.
HiniilltM* t'iiirs, the fni'M iirc s'Mit 1)V tlir Uitssimi nicvcliimts td
tlic l;ii'u'i'rsfii|>lt' pliiccs, siK'li us .fiikiitsk, Nrrlcliiiisk, 'rulmlsk,
Kiiicli(:i. Irl>it, XisliiH'-Nowo-ovod, jiiul liiiiilly St. IV'tcrs-
biir^' and Moscow; for Ity ri'i»('!it('(lly sortiiiy, ami miitt'liiiiu'
the sl/c and coloiu' of tlic skiiH, tlicir valii" is increased.
About tliiriv years a^-o, I'lii's were still tlie chief e.v|iort
iirlicK' of Sil>i'ria-1o China. Mui-opean I?Mssia. and Wesiern
Europe -hnt siu( e thei\ the discovery (d' its 1-ieh anriCeroii-
deposits has made ^old its most ini|Mirtaut I'l'inhice. Tlie
jtrecious metal is IoiuhI on the western slopes of the I'rai
I'hain and in West Silieriii ; l»nt the most [>i'odnetive diLr^'iiit^'s
fire situated in ilast Sihei'ia, where lhey;^'ive occii[Kit i< ii to
many thousands of worI:men, and riidies id a few successful
sjteenlatois.
Till' M\si teri'itory draiiu-il by the Tpp^'i' Jeni.-'ei and its
tributaries, the Siiperior and tlu' ^liddle Tnne-uska, consists
for the ;^-rcater ])ai-t <d' a dismal and swampy [)rime\al forest,
■whicli scarcely thirty years since \vas almost totally un-
known. A lew wr<'tclie(l nomads and tur-hniiteis were the
only inhabitants <d" the TaiLj'a— as thos(^ sylvan deserts ai'e
called — ami squirrel-skins seeim.'d all tliey v.erc c\cr lik' ly
to produce, A journey throU'^'h th<' 'I'ai'^a is said to hi' one
ot the most fati^-uiuL'; and tedious toni's wi'i(di it is possihle
to jnak(\ I'phill and downhill, a nari'o',\ path leads over
a. swampy 'ground, into Avhich the horses siidv up to their
kn<'es. 'i'iie rider is scarcely le>,s harassetl than the patient
animal \\hi(di carries bim over this unstable soil. Xo Idi'd
enlivens the solitarv forest with its son
tl
le moanniL;' o
the wind in tho crowns of tlii> trees alone ini( rrupts tin
'1
Qlooniv suence
'J'l
le (
■ten
lai
ameiiess (d' th
e sceue — <l!i\
after day one constant snccession ui' everlastiuL,' lai'ches and
fir-trees — is as wearyiuL;" to the nundas tlu' almost impassahle
road to tin.' body.
But snddenlv the sonnd <>f the i\xo or the creakine' of tlio
waterwlieel is hi'ard: t be forest o
•pens, a lone* row o
f Imtf
extends alone- the banks of a rivulet, and biuidreds of work-
iiU'n are seen moving* about as industrious as a bive of bees.
AVliat is tbe cause of all this activity — of this sudden
cliane'e from a deathlike (piiet to a feverisli life-^ These
are the yuldtields ; the sands of these swampiy g-rounds are
sii;i;i!iA.\ (.(ii,i) riKi.iis
•i.'Ji
vliiints f(i
, Tobolsk,
. Pi'tcrH-
miileliiii;^'
•iiscd.
t'f t'\|)nrt
VN'fsti'iMi
iiii'irci'ons
KM.. '!'|„.
flM' I'nil
"iiLT^'i'iU's
[>iit ii 11 til
oiccos.sl'iil
i ill 111 its
consi.-ls
ill fntv>l.
tally im-
Wfl'c till'
scrts iii'c
cf likrly
i» lie (Ulr
j)( iSslMi'
ads oviv
io tlii'ir
' piilii'iit
No l.ii'cl
;illill!4' of
llpts till'
Mie — d;iy
•lu's ;iiiil
ipiiijisaMo
H' of l!)i>
(if liiii^
• t" ■\vc)lv-
ol ht'i's.
.slidclou
Th.'SO
11 ids are
niivi'd. liko tlini*,. ..I' Hi.' I'lictnlns, \villi j^'dd, and tlicir Ini--
tiiiiati> possessors \voidd not oNcliaiiLj.' IIm'Iii for the lliiost
meadows, (•••ndiclds, oi- \ im-x anl>j.
I'cddi' l*o|i(>\v, a Iiiiiiltr (.!" tin j-i-nviiK't* ol' Tniiisk', is said
In have Iti'cii till' lii'^l discoviTci" of L;'i>Id in Silicria : and
( Ji'Vi'i'iiuit'id having- ^rallied iicnnissidii lt» )iri\ali' |irrsonH
I . srai'i'Ii I'm' lilt' iircciuiis metal, a t<\v eiiler|.risin:^' men
• lii'ei'ied t lieir at)e(ili<i)i tit the wild s| Mil's ul' the Sajai; M* iin-
I :iiis. A. Itrilliaiit success rewarded their eiideaviaii's. Jii
ill.' year \X'-)i> an cxpldriiiL;" [larty, sent out Uy a meivdiant
1' lined Jak'iii IJesaiiow, discovere<l a ri(di <lejM>slt of miri-
I'.reus sand near the Ininks of tlic (ireal Jlinissa ; and in
H;I!'-I'>, similar de^iosits were found alonn* several of tlio
triiiiitaries of tin.' Upper Tiinmisk-a, and still farllier io Iho
ii'irili, on tile ( Hctolylc, a I'ivulel that Ihtws into the Pit.
'file (.'Xjteus<\-; (d'a scarchinn" [larty amount, on an avcrn^'e,
to :I.<i()0 silver rouMcs '(KM)/.), und as very often no o-old
wliairver is found, these hazardous oxplorations not sehhuu
]iui both the purse ami the pt'rscvcranci' of their undci'takers
to a severe trial. Thus Nikita ]Vlaesiiik<»w had sp<.Mit no less
than L'tid.diiM silvei- roiiMes (oL>.()oo/.> in IVuitless resoarches,
when he at leii^'th discovred t he rich ^V"l'lli''l«l <•" 11"' I'es-
i.lii, whi(di, as we shall presently see. amply rcmuiierateil him
lei' his ])revioiis losses.
t H' the dinii.'ultit's Avhich await iho e-ohl-searcliers, a faint
idea may bo t'ormed, on (^onsideriii<^ that the whole of the
aiirifer<^iis re^a'on, which far surjiasses in si/o most ol* the
European kin^'iloms, (•(uisists of one vast forest like that
aiiiive dt.'scribed. Patrdit's (if n'rass-land on which horses can
!erd are of very rare occurrence, and dam[) moss is the only
bed the Tai^i'a affords. As the •i'(dd-sear(diers are verv often
at work soim." huudreils of versis from the nearest vilhiLt'e,
lliey are oblio-cd to carry all t!i>'ir )iro\isions aloui;- with
them. Their clothes are almost coiistaully wet, fnaii (heir
-leepiim hi the damp forest, from the fro(pieut rains towhi(di
they are ex[)o,sed, and from their toilino- in the swampy
l: round. Scarcely have they dm| a few feet deep wdieu Iho
fit tills with water, which they are obliy,-od to pump out as
fa:,t as it g-athers, and thus standing' up to their knees in the
innd. tliev woi'k on until thev reaeh the solid rook, for then
'2[\2
TlIK rOLAi; WOIll.l).
only can tlicy i)v certain that no auvifcrous lay<'r has been
nco-lcctcd in their search. When we consider, moreover,
that all tills lah(»nr is very often totally useless, their perse-
verance cannot but b*^' adniire(l; nor is it t(» be wondered a1
that exploriu<j;- parties have sometimes encamped on the site
of rich g'old-deposits "without examinini,' the spot, their
patience having' been exhausted by repeated failures in tlie
vicinit}'. When the winter, with its deep snowfalls, suddenly
brealcs in upon the searcliers, their hardships become dread-
ful. The frost a,nd want of food kill their horses, their
utensils have to be left behind; and dra^'i^'in^- their most in-
dispensable provisions alont;" with, them, on small sled<^-es,
they are not seldom oblig'ed to Avade for weeks through the
deeji sr. :)w before they rea-h some inhabited place.
But even the severity ol a Siberian -winter does not pro
vent the sending- out of exploring' parties. Such winter
cxpediti(ms arc only fitted out for the more accurate exami-
nation of vcri/ swampy auriferous f^rounds that have Ijet n
discovered in the previous year, and where it is less difli-
I'ult to work in the frozcii soil than to contend with the
Avater in summer. A winter-party travels Avithout horses,
the Avorkmen themselves transporting' all that they require
on li<4-ht sletlges. They are oblig'ed to break up the obdu-
rate soil Avith pickaxes, and the sand thus loosened lias to
be tluiAved and Avashed in Avarm Avater. After their day'b
Avork, they spend the ni«^-lit in huts made of the branches of
trees, Avhere they sleep on the hard ground. It requires the
iron constitution of a Siberian to bear such hardships, to
which many fall a prey, in spite of their vij^^orous health.
A <4Y)ld-(le])osit having b !en found, the fortunate disco-
A'orer obtains iho grant of a lot c»f groinid, ]()() sashens (<Jom
feet) broad, and 2,500 sashens (or 5 versts) long. Two ad-
joiniiig lots are never granted to the same person, but ;i
sidjsequent purchase or amalgamation is permitted. At
(irst ( Jovernn.ient was satisfied with a moderate tax (tf 1")
per cent, of the produce: sul>se(piently, however, this was
doubled until Avithin the last few years, when, the gold pi"-
ductidii having been found to decrease, llie | i-imitive iuipo>'
Avas r<'t urued to. nveven reduceil In '> jmt <'eiit. !'"',• the le-^s
productive uihies. Resides (lu,^ tax, fniin lour \i> eiuht 'j:i>h\
(;oiJ)-in(i(ii:us.
2.S;]
lins Ijccii
IK »!•('( )V('l'.
ir pi-rsc-
l(U'l'L'(l ill
I the site
ot, tli( 'il-
l's in till'
siuUlciily
10 droa<l-
ses, their
' most iii-
[ sk'd^-es,
L'oiig'h the
not pre-
■h wiiitiT
,te exaiiii-
lavc been
less clifli-
^vith the
it horses,
.'V recjuire
the ohdu-
iL'd lias to
icir Jay's
anehes of
(uires the
Iships, tn
alth.
I to (liseo-
hens (<;no
Two iid-
(in, but ;i
itt.'d. At
tax of 1')
this was
;^-(tl(l pl'ii-
vo impost
• th(> ]t"^>
iu'lit U"l'l
idiihles per pound of" g'old, aeeordin<^ to the riehness of the
(lioM-iiij^'s, have to be paid for police exponscs. Only a twelve
years' lease is ^'ranted, after which the diii'^ini;' ri'vcrts to the
clown, and a new lease has to Ix' purchased. As the severe
eliiiiate of the Tai^'a limits the workiny-tiine to four months
it'roiii May to September), the period of tin; ccmcession is thus
ill reality not more than four years.
The first care of the lessee is, of course, to collect the
necessary provisions and worlvin<4- apparatus. The distant
ste[»pe of the Kir^-hese furnishes him Avith di-ieil or salted
meat; his iron utensils he purchases in the factories of the
Tral; the fairs of Irbit and Nishne-Nowo-orod supply him
with every other article ; and rye-meal and tishes he easily
<i1)tains from the Siberian peasants or traders. By water and
liy land, all these various stores have to be transported in
>iininier to the rcy'uh'iicr or establishment of the ;4'old-di>4'L;"er
ell the border of the Tai<^a. The transjiort throue-h the
Tai^'a itself takes place durino- the winter, on sled;j,'<'S. at a very
L;r<'at cost ; and the expense is still more increased if tinu;
has been lost throup^h inattention, as then all that may still
be wanting- has to be conveyed to the spot on the backs of
horses.
j\[ost of the men that are hired for working- in the dig-
iriugs are exiles— the remainder g*enerally free i)easaiit>, who
have l.ieen reduced in their circumstances by misfortunes or
misconduct. The procuring- of the necessary woilunen is
ail alfair of no small ti-oul)l«^ ami ex]>( ns". JJefoi-e ('\['y\
Minimer campaig-n the ag-ents of the g-old-diggers travel
ahoiit the counti'v like recruit inu'-sern-eants. ainl after !>-i\in"-
many fair words and some hand-money, ihcy lake the pass-
]i()rt of the man engaged as a sec-urity for his ap]ie;!raiic<-.
but ahlioiigh a ])ass[)ort is a.i indispensable dociinicnt in
Siberia, yet it not seldom lia]i])eiis that the woil.inaii tiiids
means to obtain a new one under some other name, uml, I'U-
uaging himself to a new master, <lefrauds thetir>t of his
lia !id-iiioiu'v.
It may easily lie imagined that, as the workmen oiil_\ (-((ii-
sist of the refuse of society, the gr"atest discijiline is ncces-
sai-y to keep them in order. Tin* system of a secret polifp,
so cherished b\ all aibitrarv governments, is here ■ -'ed
234
Tin: I'OI-AR WOULD.
to its iitiiiitst limits; sciireely has a suspicious word fallen
amon^' tho Avorkmcn, wlieii tiie director is iiniiiediatidy iii-
forui.'d of it, iind tiikcs liis measures accordin<4ly. Every
man knows that In' is walclu'd, and is liimself a spy u])on liis
companions.
irofntan r(.'1;it(.'s im instance of a ]>I()t siuL^'ularly nipped
in tin- ImkI. in (»ni.' of tlie g'()ld-di;4';4'in<js on the Koiha,
the -wovlcnicn, at tlie insti;4'ation of an under-ovevsccr, had
ret'nx'il lo p(n'f'oi'm a task assi<^'ned to tliem. It was to
be I'carcd Ihat 1lii' spirit of insul)ordination would ^-aiu
g'ronnd. an<l exicnd <ivi'r ail the nei;.>'ld)ourinn' dio-o-ino's. The
direi-tor, consLM|u<Miil_v, sent at ont-c for military assistance ;
this, liowover, ]»i'ovetl to ho nnni'ccssai'y, for whon the (.\>.s-
sacks arrived a I the Xoiha, a, thundei'storm arose, and at
tlic \-ery moi\ii'nt lliov came riding' n[) to tlie diyjj'iny, a ilasli
of liLi'htnin^' killed the rinii;'leader in the midst of the muti-
neers. As soon as the men recovered from the lirst shock of
tlieir sur|»rise and t(.'rror. they all exclaimed, 'This is the
jud^'inent of God ! ' and, Avitliout any fnrtJier hc'sitation, at
once returned t(^) their duty.
Besi(h.'s free rations, tin; ordinary wa^'es of a common
workman are I-') roubles banco, or \'2 j-jhillinn's a month, but
m(»re experienced hands receive oO or evini (Jd r<uibli's. The
pay <lates from the day wlien the w(n-kman makes his appear-
ance at the residence, and tluMU'cforward, also, his rations
are served out to him. They consist of a pound of fresh oi-
salt-n)eal, or an ('(juisalent j)ortion of lish on fasting-days,
cabba^-e and e'roats for soup, bt-sides fresh rve-br(>ad and
ry/((/.s' (the favourite national 1>ever;iev) or/ lilniinii. The
whole inuid)er of worlcmen emidoved in a <''old-diu'u'ini'' sub-
divide Ihemselves into separate societies, or arttdls, hjachof
these (dects a (diief. or hi'adman. to \vliom the provisions for
his artel! are wei^lieil ont, and to whom all the other common
interests are entruste<l. The sale of spirituous licpior is
strict ly forbidden, lor its use would ren<li'r it impossible to
uiaintain order ; and, accordinii* to la vr. no e-in-shop is allowed
to be opene(] within (10 versts (d'a di^'^'inu'.
'J'he p;iv and llie liberal rations rec('i\('<l wonld alone Ik'
insuHicient to allure workmen to tiie tlie-yiu^'s, for, as we
have seini, the voyage there and back Is exti'ejuely irksonie,
and the lal^onr yovy fatio'uino-, ,\n excelh>nt plan hns oon-
•d fill Ion
-ti^ly in-
Evt'ry
ipou his
' ni|>iioil
IS'oiba,
eer, luul
was to
lid i;'ilin
Li'S. The
istiuico ;
tlu- CV.s-
and 111
(-, a ilas;li
lie muti-
sliock iA'
s is tlio
it ion, at
common
nth, liut
'S. Th."
nppcav-
rations
T*'sh oi'
iLi'-ilays,
'a<l ami
^^ Tlu'
II il:' snli-
Kacliol'
ions t'. ir
•oimiion
njuor is
;sil)lo 111
allowt il
llolio ll"
•, as wl-
■k<onii',
in> t'on-
GOLD-niUdERS.
TM.
siMjiioiitlj botMi devised for their eneonrau'emcnt. The con-
tract of each Avorkman distinctly specitios the (piantify of
his daily work, consisting- (tf a certain nundjcr of whecl-
liiiri'ows of sand — from 1(»() to 12n, accordinn' to tlie distance
ef the spot where it is dn^- to the plai-c wlici-c it is washed
out — each roclc(.iii'(l at tlirci' jtonds,-' whieli oiio ])arty has to
lii I. another fo convey to the wash-stands, ami a third to wasli.
Till' lasiv is <4'('nrrally eoinplctrd hy noon, or cariv in the
lil'ti'i'iioon. l''oi" the iah<Mir tlioy pcrlVirin (hiring' the rest of
thf ihiy. or on Sundays and holidays, tlii'V receive an exti'a
|/;iy of two or thi'c'' roiiMcs for every sohitiiik of Li('ld thev
wish. f]verv eveninii' the Workmen come Willi the orodnce
dl iheir f'wH' lahonr to the ottice, the li'old is weighed in their
jii'cscnce, a)id the artell credited for the anioiiiit of its share.
This fi'i'e-wiirk is as advanta^'eoiis f.ir the ina-ti-rs as the
I ^.-uri-rs. The foi'inei- enjoy a net ]irolit of ei^^'iit or t^'U
ru,;l,! ^ per solotnik. ami all the w<>rkiiui' expeiises are <if
c'lnrse put to the charLi'e of the contrai-t lahour; ami the
l.ite'r earn a j^'reat deal of money, accordinLi' to their iiidus-
tiy or n'(»o(l-lnek. for when fortune favours an artell. its share
iiiay amount to a considerable sum. Duriun' lloi'nian's
stay at the iJiriiss;!. each workman of a certain ar!ell earne(l
ia one attermion 72 I'oubles. aial the Siinday's v.ork of
aaotlier of thest.' associations i^ave t<> each (>f its meiiilu'rs
In") rniibles, or I/. The artis;ins - who, t houu'h eiuphiycd in a
'„i'ld-iiiine, are not en<4'a;^'e(| in diL;■^■in^• or washing tlh- ani'i-
1' lulls sand — are also rewarded from time \i> time b\ a day's
fi'i'-labour in places which ai'e known Id Ite I'ich. Hn one of
ti.ese occasidus a ( 'ossack on t he ( (ktoh k" recei\ed •'!!'» niiiliks
I"!' his share of the ^'old tliat was washed out of [H \\Iieentar-
1'. ,\vs (if <;iii(l. These of course a re ext raordiiia ry cases, but
liiey,-ho\v how much a workman ///-/// niiin: and bcin;.;- of
("arse exau'u'erated bv I'ejiort. are the chief iiHlucemeiits
which attract the workmen, and kd'O them to their duty.
If the free-lal»oiir is nnprodiict ive. many ol' the workimui
(li'sei't or u'i\e up free-labour altogether, ami in bdtli cases
tile master is a loser. To pri'xciit this, it is customary, in
iiiaiiy of t he diu^iii'j.'s, to pay the workim'ii a lixed >iim tor
llicir extra work.
" T'lM pijU'l i-i fi|ii!vl to 10 poiuiila. Tln' jiou'i i^ iliv. '■•I iutn OO sol.>tiiiIis.
....
'2;'(i
TIIK POLAIl WOrwlJ).
At tlio oiul of tlu' season tlie workiiu:]! are paid oH', and re-
ceive provisions for their honie-joiirney. Generally, the jao-
duee of their snnnner's labour is spent, in the hrst villa^'es tlicy
reach, in drinking and oandjlint^ ; so that, to be able to return
to their families, they are obli<^'ed to bind themselves anew
for the next season, and to receive hand-money from the
a<4vnt, who, knowin<>^ their weakness, is ^-enerally on the spot
to take advanfca<^"e of it. After spending- a, lon<^ winter full
of want and privations, they rctnrn to the Taij^a in sprint;',
and thus, thron<4-h their own folly, their life is spent in con-
stant misery and hard labour.
])nvin<>- the winter the di<^'<4'in<:r i>^ deserted, except by an
nnder-overseer and a few wor. men, who make the necessaiv
l)reparations for the next campaijjfn, receive and warehouse
tlie provisions as they arrive, and guard the property againsl
thieves or wanton destruction. The npper-overseer or di-
rector, meainvhile, is fully occupied at the residence, in foi-
warding the provisions and stores that hiive arrived there
during the summer to the i line, in making the necessary
purchases for the next year, in sending Ids agents about tlie
country to engage new workmen; and thus the winter is, in
fact, his busiest time. AVith the last sledge transport lie
returns to the digging, to receive the workmen as they
arrive, and to see that all is ready for the summer. As his
situation is one of great trust and responsibility, he enjoys ii
considerable salary. Maesnikow, for instance, paid his chief
director ■1(),000 roubles a year; and (5,00(1 or S,(»()(| roubles,
bt'sides free station, and a percentage of the gold [trocbiced,
is the oi'dinary emolument.
It is thus evident that the ex])enses of a Siberian gold-
mine are enormous, but when foi'lune favours the under-
taker he is uni[>ly rewarch'd for his outlay: an annuiil
produce of 10, 1 '>, or lio ponds of gold is by no menus un-
common. In tlu' year 1S!.*>, |.')S workmen eni|d(»yed in tli''
gold-mine of iAFariinsk, Ixdonging to Messrs. (Jolulxlow and
Kusnezow, produced Si ponds j'.'.'j |l)s. of the (nn(di-eo\eli d
metal; in the year 1S|:> the mine (d' ()iginsk. lndougiuL;' tn
rii(Miteiiant Mak'winsky, yi(ddi'<l S'J pouds ;!7j II>s. ; and in
IS II', the laboured' 1,01 I worknien, cniployeil in the ndiie e)'
In resdowosdwishensk, bidoiiiiiug (o Messrs. Kusne/o\v and
8chtscliegolow, produced no less than S7 |»ivhl> 11 |b>. of gold.
fiOLD-PUODUCI': OF SinKHIA.
•J.tT
tli*.' prii-
torotuni
'OS iiiimv
V(»lll llic
the spot
iiitor full
I sprinu',
; in C'ou-
pt Ly ;ni
lecessiirv
arelioiist'
y ii^i'aiiisl
vv or (li-
(', ill t'oi'-
/ed tlici't'
iiocessiirv
ibout till'
tor is, ill
1 sport he
as tlicy
As Ills
enjoys ;i
liis ('lutt'
roubles.
iroduccd,
an <j;oltl-
uiidt'i-
I aniiuiil
llllS IMl-
1 ill l!i
(loAV i!ll<l
l-roVt'li'il
lio'ili;^' \"
; imkI III
■ mine of
/(•w aii'l
Hut even Kresdowosdwislionsk lias boon clisiaiioo(T by ilic
mine of 8j)asky, situated near the sources of tlie IVskiii,
wliii'h, ill the year IS 12, yielded its fortunate possessor, the
aliove-nientioncd Counsellor Nikita Maesnikow (one of the
t'i'w men \vlio wdi- already extremely rich before the Sib(>-
riiiii aurilerons deposits were dis(;overod), the onornions quaii-
lity of loo ponds of ^'old ! From ISIO to ISl."), Maesnikow
extracted from this mine no less than ;> 18 ponds (I ll)s. of <;'olil,
worth I,!:}."),!? !■ silver roubles, or about 10,000/. Still
mure recently, in 18()0, the Gawrilow inino, belono'in<4' to the
lii'usc of Kjasanow. produced l02^- ponds of pure <4'old,
l)iit in Liberia, as elsewhere, miniiiL;* operations are fre-
uciitly doomed to end in disappointment, particularly if the
. }ia(*e destined to be worked in the folk) win <:;■ summer has not
been carefully examined beforehand, as th<? ore is often very
uiu'([ually distributed. A speculator, liavin^' discovered a
■jold-mine, examined four or live samples of the sand, which
"■;uc a hiu'hlv satisfactory result. Deliu'lited with his u'ood
fcrtiuie, he made his arrangements on a grand scale, and
collected provisions for 500 workmen ; but when operations
began, it was fouml that he had, unfortiuuitel}', hit upon a,
siii;iil [latch of auriferous sand, the vi'/inity of which was
tutiiliy void of gold, so that his 500 workmen produced no
more than a foAV pounds of ore, and lie lost at least 10,000/.
liy his adventure.
The entire gold produce of East Sibt>ria amounted, in
1 ^ 15. to S IH ponds ;}() lbs., and in 1S5(> to about 1,100 jiouds ;
lint latterly, in consequence of the increasing wages and
(learness of provisions, wliic'i has caused uiany of the less
productive mines to b».^ al)andoned, it has somewhat dinii-
iiislied. Ill lS(i(i, :{K700 men, Dl'J Avonien, and s, 751 horses
and oxen, were employed in the Siberian goM-inines.
\s iiiav easily be imagined, the discovery of these sources
<|| wc.ilth in the desert has caused a. great rexolutidii in the
secial statt' of >il«'ria. The riclies so suddenly ae«piired iiy
;i few favourites of fortune, have raised luxury to an un-
' xaiiipled height, and ei;courage«l a senseless prodigality.
>>"iae strrlt't.^''' liavinu' been otiered f<'r oOO roubles to a miner
2.'5S
TIIK H)\..\\{ UOIIM*.
.suddenly raised I'niiii penury to Avenll]i, ' Fool ! * said iho
n[)s1art. v>i11i t]ie superb mien ef a (•(•nqueriii^- liern. io llic
iisli-dealer, ' wilt lliou sell me tliesc <\\cellent sterlets so
che'apy Here are a tJioiisand roubles ; !Ji<», and say that tli(ni
hast dealt with hn- ! '
The small lowii of Krasnojarsk, remautically siiualed on
the Jenisei, is the (diief seat ol' Ihe rich miners, liorc may
be seen the ehoieest toilettes, the nntst showy ec[uipaci'es,
and ehanipayne (which in Sil)eria costs at least 1/. a ItoHt.
is th(» daily beveray,'e of the ^^nld aristocracy. Uiifortii-
natelv. Krasnoiarsk had, iintil Aerv recent Iv, not a .sin<>'lo
bookselhf's sh()[) to bnast <d'; and Avliile thousands weri'
]avishe(l (in vanity and sensual enjoyments, Jiot a rdubk' was
devoted to tlie im]>rovement of the mind.
Less rich in tj'old than the ]>rnvince of -Teniseislc. bui
richer in c(>;)[)er and ii'on, and al.)«ive all in ])1,itina, is t!ic
T'ral, where minini;' industry Avas first iiitroduci'd, by Peter
the Ui'cat. in the last years of the seventeeinli century, auil
lias since aci|uired a, colossal development. 'rhonuli ^(.111
was discovered i)i tl;e I'ralian province of I'ermia as early as
I"!'). Act its ]ii'odnction on a lar^'e scaii- is of more modern
date, in tlie year lsl(i. th" whole quantity of o-,,|,l fnrnishei]
by tlu'Uj'al aniounled only to •') ponds :)•') lbs., while in l,s;M. ii
iiad inei'eascd to lO-*) pouds.
The di.M ^ery of the precious metals on the estates of the
lar^-e mine-proprietdrs of the Ural, who already before that
time were amoni;" the wealthiest men of the empire, has in-
creased their ricdies to an enormous ext.-nt, and j^-iven an
European celeln-ity to the names of Jakowlew and Demidci}]'.
Werdi Isselsk and Werchne Taii,'ilslc. in the ]irovince of
Periuia, lieloni^ann" to the .Fakowlew family, have an o'tent of
more than three millions of aci'es. with a pope.iation of
11,0(M> souls. Besides iron au'l '-opper. their (diiei' pr<jducc.
Ihese estates yielded, in l'~^:II. ■'}>< ]iouds of ;^'o!d.
XishMc-'l'a«4ilsk, belonp-iii;^', since I7_'"). to the Deniidolf-.
is ;i still more ma^'i'Mici'iit po>session ; foi- i( may truly he
said, that perhaps uciwiiere in the worid are ^Teater mi-
neral riches conL;'re:^ated in one spot than here, where,
be^idi's \as( (|uantities of iron and cojipei-, the washiuL;' el'
the sands produced, in l^'il', no lis.-, than 'J'.' ponds of e-oM.
I
said ilio
i». to llli'
ci'lcts So
that thou
nated on
it'To may
[[uii.ag'cs,
a bottli')
Uiifoi-tn-
a (sinu'li*
lids woiv
inl)l(.' uas
'I'isL', linl
a, is tlio
hy PotiT
uiT. aiiil
1114I1 Li;<'M
> cai'lv as
' iiiddcni
I'liriiishi'i]
11 Ks;; |. it
fS of tlio
lure that
, has ii)-
^iveu au
Jeinidoir.
n'iuco < if
oxtoiit of
lati(»n (if
^irodiU' .
finiih^n"';,
■ iruly !"'
atcr nii-
'. wllct'i'.
ishiuy "il
SIi;i;iiiA\ (.t>M)-AKlST()(|JA('V
:if)
mid 11 :J ponds :] ll)s. of platina. The ostato oxtoiids ov.m- I'.air
iidllioiis of aeivs, and its jH.pulatiou, in 1 -:; I-, aiiK.uiil.'d to
2t>,()U0 souls.
The town of Nislme-Ta;>-iislc has altont ir..(i(i(i inhal>itan<s,
and Helmersen (•Travels in tjie L'ral'i j.rais.s Ww Denii-
(lotis for their zeal in earrvin-- tin" eiviiisat ion of Europe to
the wilds of the Ural. In an .'xe.'hont olcni.a,i;irv srlmul,
l.')0 hoys are eh)thed, fed, and r(lnciit,.d al Hi. mi- c.\|KMise.
Tlu.se pupils who disrin_L;-,n":,h llioiii.s.'lv.'s hy iln-ir ai-ilitics
are then sent to a hio-her .scIpm.I. siicli i,s tl,e D^'ini.idtf
lAceuin in Jaroslaw, or the rniv..'V.sity uf Idosrow. and aflrr
the termination of their stnd.ies obtain a- situation on lli-.'
estates of the family. The palace of the l),.nnil«.lfs has a
fine colleelion of paintino-s by tji,. first Italian masters; but
ir is seldom if evt^r inhabited l)y the ]»i'(.prielors. wlio jir* f.'i-
I'l^irener Taris to the Ural. The j'.anid m- of the faiiii!v
was an emmont ,^-u,isniith of the town of Tida, v>Iio>c ;ilM]i'-
ties o-ained him the favour of Peter the (ireat. and tlie oiff
eftho mines on whidi Hie colossal fertinieof his de.seeudants
has beeji raised.
I I
'■■i^'
I '
M M^^'- 2
i_li' up ol l-ii;S3i;iu i.oiijV'.s.
CIIAPTEE XVTTT.
mtddendoeff's adventures in taimurland.
I'ur what rm'i'oso was ^liiMi'iulnrfTs Vdviifii' lo 'I'ainHirlaiid iindcilakoii ? I>illi-
cultii's iiiiil Olistai'lcs - l']x}i('diti<m down the 'raiiiuir Hiwr to thi' I'olar Sea —
iStfii-m on 'rainmr Lake — Loss of tlie IJoat — ^lidthMuhjrJl' ill and alnnc in TV
N. Lat. — Savid by ii grateful Samojcdc-Cliniato and Wgctation of Tainnii'-
land.
ON following' tlio contours of the Siboriun const, wcfind, in
the east of Novaya Zenilya, a vast tract of territory
projecting- towards the Pole, and extending its promontories
far into the Icy sea. This country — which, from its princi-
pal river, may be called Taimurland — is the most nortliern.
and, I need hardly add, the most inhospitable part of tlie < >M
World. The last huts of the Russian lishermen are situated
about the mouth of the Jenisei, but the Avhole territorv
of the Tainuu- river, and the regions traversed l)y the lowti'
course of the Cliatanga and the Piisina, are completely uiiiii-
bited.
Even along the upper course of these two lasi -named i-ivers.
MIDDKNDoUri'S ADVKNTfKKS.
241
tilt' j^'^P^i'ii^tiou is ('xi'ciMliiin-ly sciiiity aiitl sciittcrotl ; ;nul ilio
I'lW Sinu(»jt'(lt's wild nii^'i'jid' diirin^' tlic sniniiifi' (o the l)iiiil<.s
nf ilie Tiiiiiiui', i;'!;hllv li'iivi- tlifiii ;it tlic ;i jiin'tiiicli of winter,
I lit' cold of" which no t hci'mniiictcr has ever iiii'iisni'cd. As
may ("iisily bo iniim'iiH'il, 'raimm-hiiid has hut few altriictioii.s
fur the lra(h'r or tlio I'lir-huutor, hut I'w the natiu'alist il is
liv ii(» moans without intorost.
oW
(III
II
IICl',
Wo have aevn in a I'ornior chaptor h
|ii(ini[ito(l by tlio disiutoivstcd h)vo ot" simouco, tra\i'lh'd to
Xdvaya Zoinlya, to o.xaniiiio the productions (d'a cnlil lusuliir
siniuucr, beyond tlio Tntli derive of latituih'. T'.ie instruc-
tive results ol' his journey fudered it doubly desirable io
(ilitain int'oriiuttion aljout ^ic cirocls of sunnnor in a cnnll-
innliil climate, situated it' jiossible still farther to the north;
;iiid as no ree;iou coidd be better suited to this ](ur[iose than
till' inieri(»r ol'thu broad mass of Tainiurlaiid, the Academy of
Sciences of 8t. Pett.'rsbure- resolved to send tiiither a scientific
ex
peditiou. Fortunately for the succ(»ss ol' the undertakiuL;',
Veil ]Middeii(]ortl', the eminent naturalist, "whosi' otfer of
,-la<lly
accep
ted.
was in every respect the ri
rht
sirvjce \vas l
man in the I'ieht place; for to the most iiutirine- scientific
/.'•al, and an mnvaverine- determination, he Joined a [thysical
slreiii^lh and a. manual dexterity rarely found miited with
li'aniiiiy-. In the Jraplaiid luoors he had learned to l)i\onac
t'lr ni^'hts toj^'ethei', while chasine,- the waterfowl, and (»n
I'eei ho was able to tire the best-trained Avah-iis-hnnter. lie
iimlei'stood how to eoustrnct a boat, ami to steer it with his
ewii hand, and every beast or bird was dctonu'd that came
within reach of his unerrini^' ball. In one Avord, no traveller
cvei- [)luno'ed into the Arctic wilds more independent of bae--
U'liu'c, followers, or the means of transport.
On A[)ril I we liud i\IiddeiHh)i'fl', accompanied by ]\Ii'.
iiraiidt, a Danish forester, and a siiiule ser\ant. on the ice of
the .jeiiisei bt'tween Turnchaiisk and Inidiiio. jieiv his
'■"liipauions Avere attacketl Ity mea.sles; but as it was liiLih
trine to rcatdi the ('hataiiiia before the niidtine- of the snow,
;lie patients we're i-aivl'ully paclve<l up in boxes lined with
^l:iiis, and the whole party — Avhose nnndjers, nicaii\vhil(% had
lireii increased hy the addition of ;i topoeTaj)her and of three
Cossacks — enujrii'ed from the re^'ion of forests on A]iril 1;{,
'24-2
Tin: I'oLAIi WuKI.I),
]i;iviiin" l(» tiicf ii cold of —:!(!', mnl ii stoi'in tluil iiliiiusi
(•wrt iinicd their slcd^'cs. With 'riiii^iMisc ^'iiidcs thi'V tr.i-
Vci'SL'd tlic tiiiidiM ill ii iiitrth-i'iisti'rlv dii'fct idii iis tar ii-^ thi'
I'i'isiiia, and thciicc passiii;^' uii tVom oin' Saiiiojcih' hniih'
to allot iicr, at Ii'iii4'th reached l\oroiiiioje Fiii|)|((t\vsk(ij (71 ■">'
lilt.) on tlie iJii^Miiida, an atlliient of the Cheta, which ']<
itself a tril)ntar_v <»f the rhataii^'a. Here a lialt was made,
pai'tiy heeansL! all the ['arty cxcejit JNIiddendortf were l»y this
time attacked with tin- ivi;4'iiiii^' ej)idemic, and partly t<» wait
for the Sainojedes, whom they iiiteialed to join on their
suuinier niiy-ration to the north, liiiriim- this interval .Mid-
dendorlV made an excursion t<» tlie ('liatanLi'a. for the pnriMisc
of u'al hei-iiiLi' inrorinal ion ah(mt the voya^'e down that ri\( r.
and to make the necessary |>re|tarations. In the viliaLi'e d'
( "hataiiusk, linwcvei-, he found nearly all the inhaliitanl;
.sntferin;^' from the measles, and as no a-^si.staiice was to he
oxpcH'ted from them, he resctlved to alter his ront(>. and u>
])roei'(>d as soon as jiossihle io the ri\cr Taimnr, ^Yllicll wouM
in all prohahility alVord him ihe hest means for peiietiM; in^'
to th(> e.\t I'eine confines of cont iicnl.! I Asia. As this most
'iiDfl/nrli/ river of the old world lies far heyoiid the homi-
diiries of aihoreal <4'rowlh, a 1/oat Irame of twi'lve feet oii
ihe keel had to he made at Jvoroinioje before scltiiiL;' oiil.
Brandt was left Ijohind, Avitli ])art of tii" conqiany, to make a
jn'olon^'cd series of nK'tooroloLi'ical observat ions, and to m-jI hs'
as com[ih'te a collection as possilde of the aniniais aii'i
]ilants ol" the ronnl!'y, wdiilo Aliddendoi'ff started on Li,-; a 1-
Aontnrons toni' (ATay l!>), with .•;ixiy-eiuht reindeer, tinder tin'
"I'liidanci' of a i'ew Samoiedes on llieir proLi'ri'ss to the n<»i'tii.
aiid aecoiiipanied only by tin' toitojjrapher, an inlcvpr;)- i'.
and t w^i ( 'ossacks. The dillicnlties of this jonriiey, since ;i
buat-franie, fuel, provisions, physical insli-iiiiienls, ap[';!iM-
tuses for the 2'^'t''>''i'^i''^i"" ''1^' ohji'''<s of natural history,
loi'min'j,' altoevtlier a load for many sled^-es, had to be ti'aiis-
]K)rtcd alont^- with the travellers, would have been u'l'i'at ;ii
all times, but were now c<»n<iderab!y increased by i!i.'
epidemic having:" also seized the tribe of Saniojedes wl
llrll
owajM
Midden(h»rtt' expeeted to lind near the small river N
and Avhich was to ^aiide him farther on to the Taimnr. Ai
lenLjIh, after a search of three days, lu^ fouml the reiiinaiil "
11 *
lev llM-
V ;is till'
(• llMl'll'
ivllicll i-
IS lIC.uli'.
. l.y 11ii>
,' t(» Willi
(111 llii'ir
vn\ Mi'l-
puriMiM'
i:ii riv(i\
r.iliit ;i 111 -
as lo III'
', atiil '"
ell Wdni'l
net rat iiiL;'
llis IIH'-I
IC ii((U:l-
' I'ci't n,l
tiii'_f oii'i.
(t iiial';*' :i
to '_>m1 li'i'
iiiais ai.'l
m llis a i-
iinliT 1 li-'
10 THM'i II.
i'Vj>r;'1' i'.
, siiii-i' 11
ai.i-ar;!-
histuiT.
In' traii^-
U'lvai ;i!
hy lin-
t's will' ii
Nuwaja.
iiinr. Ai
•uiMaiit "!
V|( ISSITIDKS n|' TIIWI'I,.
•241
I 111' liKi'd', wliidi liail iM'.'ii (Icciiiiatcil ami I'l'iliici'il to a di'-
I'IhimMc CI » 1 1(1 it i(. II l>y t lie r|iii|i'iiiic. 1 II vain ill' sdU'^'lil for tin'
W I ll-kll< i\Vll fares iti' the cliici" |ii'|Sn|ia;^i'S <i|' till' linr<lf. with
wliiiiii he had ii("^""tiati'<l mii t Ih' ilnj^Miiiila — ' ihcy wrrf all
ilraih' ( >t't liirty-li\(' imtsohs, oin' niily was ci 'in plct civ healthy ;
a seciiiid eiiuM hardly ei-awl ahoiit; hut the dth'TS la_\ ja'os-
tiMte ill their teiit-<. ct 'iiL;'h i iil;' and '_:'i''»aiiiiiL;' niider their skiii
t ii\ I'l'inU'S. lit'il villLl" seven eorpses i>ll the I'oad. they liail
ad\aiici'd hy slow jduriH'ys to Ji»in M iildeiidi>i"ll', until they
lireLe down. s(» that, instead of I'eceivinLf iiitl at their hands,
lie was now (»hlii4-ed til help t lii'iii in t h 'ir (list n-ss aiiassist-
aiH-c wliieh they a ply repaid, as wo shall set.* In tho
sri|iiel.
I iit'ei'tiinately the ilhies-; had pi'evented the SaiiK ije(l(^
weiiieii IVdiM sewing" tiio'rther, as they hail pri'iiiised, iIk;
>l\ilis that Wel'e iieee,>^ai'V 1o ciiniplete the e* i\ fl'i ii^;' < d' the
tiM\e|jeis' tent, si i that ihev had niueh to srJl'er diirinu- a.
NJeji'iii snow-st'ii-ni. wliieh raLi'ed IVoni May 27 to :!(►. 'I'lius
at't'T another hmj^- di-lay and an irieparalile loss ot" time,
ie'isIdeiinL;" the extrenu' shnrluess nf the sninnier. .\riddeii-
iliiftrwas nut ahle to >iiiiri IVuni tin' Xuwaja liet'ui'e May ol.
'I 111' sol*teniii>4" of tlie sni>w remh'i'ed the advaiici,' of the
sli'iln'cs ('xt)vmt'ly dillieult. so that it was not helufe June 1 !•
tli;it lie I'eaehed the 'i'aiiiiui' at a eoiisiderahle distanee ahiive
the piiiiit whevi' tin; river disidiai'e'es its waters intn tlie lake.
I]iii'a!iipiii'4' on n steep deeli\ity of its l»aid<. .M iddendortt* imw
Set ahuut imil linj^' his hoat. ( )ii June :»(>, the iee nn tiie I'iver
h' .;;iii to lirealc up. and on .Iiijy .'>. the na\i'4'ation nt' tlie
slrcaiii was free. iJy the liL:hi of the midiii^dit sun the hoat
v.is laiimdied, aii<l ehristeiied * 'I'he Tundra.'' to eommi'mo-
rate the dilHeiiltit'S of its eoiistruetioii in the deserts of 71^
N. !at. (Jonstaiit north winds retardeil tin' voyaLi'e down the
ri\''r iuid over the lal<i', heymid whieh the 'raiiuur. traversing-
a hilly couiitry, is cuelosed within steep and piet uresque
ri'il'is. The iiK-reasiiie- rapidity of the >treain now fa\oin'ed
'lie travellers, and the storms wi'rc less trouhlesonie hetween
till' mi'^-hty roi-k-walls ; but unfort unati ly M idilendorlf. in-
^le.id of heiiiw' able, as he had expected, to till his nets with
li-h as he advanced, and to establish depot s foi- his return
.l"".riiey. found himself ol(lii_>'ed to eousunie the |U'ovisions he
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(716) 872-4503
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■244
THK I'OLAU WOULD.
had taken with him in the boat. On An«,ni.st (5, the first
night frost took place, and from that lime was regniarly
repeated. Yet in spite of these waniin<j^H, MiihU-iidortl'
continued his journey down the river, and reached the s«'ii
on August 21, in 70° N. lat. But now it was high time to
return.
' The fear of k'aving my nndt.'rtaking half unfinished,'
says Middendortf, 'had hithei'to encouraged me to perse-
vere. The great distance frt>m any Iiunum habitation, tin-
rapid stream, against which we had now to contend, and the
advanced season, with its approaching dark nights and
frosts, made our return an imperative necessity, and I could
liave but little reliance on our remaining strength. The
insufficient food and the fatigues of our journey, often
prolonged to extreme exhaustion, had reduced our vigour,
and we all began to feel the ettects of our frequent wadini,'
through cold water, wdien, as often happene<l, our boat hiul
grounded upon a shallow, or when the flat mud banks of the
river gave us no other alternative for reaching the dry land.
It was now also the second month since we had not slept inider
a tent, having all the time passed the nights behind a screen
erected on the oars of the boat, as a shelter against the wind.
Provided with a good load (»f drift-wood, collected on the
shore of the Polar Ocean, we began our return voyiige on
August 26. The borders of the river were already encrusted
with ice. Wading became extremely irksome, the river
having meanwhile fallen above six feet, and the shallows
frequently forcing us to step into the water, and pull the
boat along.
' Fortunately the wind remained favourable, and thus In-
rowing to the utmost of our strength, and with the assistance
of the broad sails <»f cmr " Tundra," we surmounted two rapids
Avhich, encased between abrupt rocks, seemed to defy our ut-
most efforts.
*0n the 'Jlst, a malicious gust of wind, bursting out of a
narrow gorge, threw our boat against the rocks and broke the
rudder. The frost and wet, together with the shortness of
our provisions, tried us s(>rely. Not a day passed without
sleet and snow.
' On September '», while endeavouring to double during i
Loss nr THK IK) AT.
24.1
vi(»l('ut storm a rockv island at the nortliorn »'xtivinit} of
li ikc Taimur, oiu. wave at'tor another dasla'd into tlio boat,
whicli I oonld onlysavo by letting' lior run upon a Sinul-ltanlc.
Tilt' vi<»l«'nt wind, with a toni|M'ratnr(' of only -i '27° at noon,
ccvcn'd our clotlu'S with solid ice-crusts. Wo wcri' ohli^'cd
to hiilt foin* days till the storm ceased ; (»ur n<'ts and my dctuble-
liiirrelled jj^un ]»roved <hiily more and moreunsuecessfnl, so that
iiuu^'er combined with cold to renchn* our situation ;ilmost in-
tolerable. On the Sth, while on the look-out f«>r }»tarnii;^an,
1 siiw throuufh my telescope a lon^ stripe of silver stretching
over the lake, and retmniinyr to mv comriuh's informed them
iliat we must absolutely set oft' again the next morning, re-
L:;;r<lless of wind and weather.
' On the following dav the ominous indications of the tele-
scope rendered it necessary to approach tlie more open
west side of the lake; whicli I followed until stopped by the
ice, along whose borders I then saih'd in order to reach the
river, which must still be open. Mt'anwhile the wind had
tompletely fallen, and to our astonishment we saw the water
ill our wake cover itself with a thin crust of ice as soon as
\vi> passed. The danger of freezing fast in the middle of the
liike was evident."
Unfortunately, while endeavouring to reach the river, th(^
I'oat was crushed between two ice tloes, and was with great
•litHcultv dratrjred on shore. The onlv chance of rescue now
was to meet with some Samojedes on the upper course of
the river, for these nomads never wander northwards be-
yond the southern extremity of the lake, and from this our
travellers were still at a great distance.
'We made a large hand-sledge,' continues i^Fiddendortf, 'and
set otf without loss of time on the loth, in sj»ite of the rainy
weather, whicli had completely dissolvi'd the sparing snow
ii|ion the hills. The sharp stones cut into our sledge-runners
lilo' knives, and after having scarcely made three versts, the
Vehicle fell to pieces. The bad weather forced us to stop foi*
11h' night. The fatiffues of our boat j(»urmy, the want of
pvojM'r food, and mental anxiety, had f(»r several weeks been
niulermining my health: a total want of sleep destroyed
tlh' remainder (»f my strength, so that, early on the 11th. I
I'ejl myself (piite unable to proceed."
24(i
TlIK Vo\.\R WOlU.lt.
Ill this oxhvinity ^Sfiddoiidorft' iidojitcd Avitli hcniic sclf-
(Iciiial the bi'st and oiilv iiiciiiis for liis own prcstrvalion ami
that oi'his <'(»iiira»1<'s. If, l>y (h'partiu;^' without loss ot'tiiiic.
they wort! I'ort iiiiatc enough to reach tiic Saniojfih'S hclotv
tht'st' iioinads had left the 'raiiimr couiitrv for the soiitli, h.-
also iiii^^ht he i-i>scut'd ; if thev htiilid them vt'Vy lato, Ihty
at least ini^lit cxiK'ct to savt* their lives; if the Saiuojedts
could not l>e found, then, df course, the Avhole party wa>
doonie*]. Thus ^Iidden<loril' resolved t(t separate at oiic'
from his conu"a(h'S. A renniant of llesh extract, reserved f<ir
extreme cases, was divided into tivi- e(|ual portions; tli"
natnralist's dou'. the faithlul companion of all his [trevioiis
j<»urneys, was killeil, tiH>nii]i reduced to a mere skeleton, ainl
his scanty fl(>sh similarly distril»ute«l amon;^' tlie j.arty. Tli!'
hlo<Ml and a soup made of the hones served tor the parting;'
repast. 'JMnis of his own free will, the winter havin<^ already
set in. ^Iid«lendorff, ill and exhansted. remaim-d (piite aloiif
in tlie icv desert, hchind a shelterinu' rock, in 7')^ X. !at..
several hnndrt'<l versts from all human dwelliie^s. alnic.i
withont fuel, and with a miseral)le supply of fond, 'fhc
throe first «lays lie was still aide to move, lie saw the lake
cover itself ('(unpletely with ice. and the last l)irds depart I'l'
tlu' S(»uth. Then Ins streiiLjtli utterly failed him. and for tlie
next three days he was unahle to st ir. ^Vhen he was auain
ahh' to m<»ve. he felt an excessive tliirst. He crawled to tlie
lake, hridce the i<'e. and the water refreshed him. I»nt lie\\,i>
not y«'t free from disease, and this was lia-tnnate. as want et
appetite tlid not make him feel the lu'cessity of food. ]S'e\v
followed a succession of terrihie snow-storms, which coiii-
jtletely impristued the solitary I ;aveller. hut at thes.mie tii.i'
affoi'ih'd him a hotter sh.dter a'_;ainst the wind.
' IVFy comi>anions,' he wiates iu a letter to a relation, ' ]\\\<\
now left me twelve (hiys ; human assistam-e could no lonu'i"
he expectiMl; I was convinced that 1 had only myself to iclv
n[ton, that I was doomed, and as i^'ood as innnhcred with th •
(h'ad. And vet mv conra^'i' did not forsake me. Tiike or
squirrels, I tui-ned mystdf accordini; to the (diany-es of th •
wind. During- the loiii;- sleep'ess nie-hts fancy opened In r
domains, and I foreol even hunj4'er and thirst. Then IJoi-e;!-
broke roaring" out (»f the •••ullios as if he intenth'd to sweep
Ai.oNi: ON Tin: tindka.
•-M7
)iii' inviiy into flic slcifs, ninl in n slioi-t tiiiu' I was eovcrtd
willi ii coiniortjililc siKiw-iniiiitlo. Thus F liiy tlirt'f days,
tliiiikiii;^ <»f' wrctrhi'S wlio had hern imiinirtMl ahvi', and
uiowii iiia<l iii their dp'adl'nl ]»ris<iM. An ovt'i-wlirlniiii^
\'<-.\r ct' insanity befell me — ^it oppressed my lieart -it heeanai
jiisMpportabh'. In vain I attt.'mpted to east it ofi' niy
\vt;ikene<l brain eonld j^rasp no other idea. And now sud-
il'idv — like a rav of liolit from lieaven - tlie saviiiLT thoUiiht
;is
h.'d
Ultoii me
' My hist ]»ieees of weod were (jniikly linhled - seme waler
\\;is thawed and warmed — I poured into it the sjtirils from a
lliisk containing'' ji specinn-n of iiatural Idstorv, and di'aid>>.
A iii'W life seemed t<t awaken in me; my tlioULihts reiunied
nuiiin to my family, to the happy days I hatl s)»ent with tla^
iVieiids of my youth. So<»n I tell into a jirofnund slecj) —
liuu lon;4' it lasted I know n(»t — but on awakening,' I felt lik»;
iiiKrilier man, and my ]»reasi was fdied with L^r.ititnde, Aj)-
pi'tite ret urne<l with recovery, and 1 was reduced to eat
l;ith''rand birch-bark — when a ptarmii;an fortunately cam.;
within reacdj of my Li'un. Mavint,^ thus obtained sonie iood
I'll- the journey, I I'csojved, although still very feeble, to set
iii'tivisions we had buried. J*ackinu" sonn^
■ 111 and se(
■k th
<>\
;ir;iiji's of dress, my L;'un and ammunition, my Jnui'nal. Sn'.,
I uiv small hand sledi-'e, J iii'o<-eeded slowlv, and freciuentlv
i''>tini,''. At noon 1 saw, on a well-known declivity of the hills,
three black sp(»ts which I had not previously noticed, and as
t !iev chanu'ed their iiosition, I at once alteictl mv route to
ji'iii them. \Ve approached each other — and. Jud;^'e of my
ileli'_;-ht, it Avas Trisclmu, the Saniojede ciiieftain, w luaii I
liaij j»reviously assisted in the jirevailiui;' epidemic, mid who
nii\v, i^nided by one of my companions, had set out with
tliree sledj^'es to seek me. I'liiijer to serve his benefactor, the
i^iatefnl savai^'e liad made his reimleer wander without food
"\e|- ii sjtace of l.-jO versts where no moss i;rew.
' I now hear<l that my eomjKinions had fortunately reacheil
tile Samojedes, four days after our sej)aration; but the
di'eadful snow storms had prevented the nomads from
cnniinLT sooner to my assistance, and had even fei-eed them
twice to retrace their steps.
'On Se])tember -SO, tlie Samojedes l»rou;^ht me io my tent
248
TiiK I'oi.Au woin.n.
niul, on Ootubcr J), we biido tlic Tiiiinur iin cttTiinl ruivwrll.
Ai'tcr five uiuiillis we liailcd with ddi^Mit, on ( htoltcr I'o.
ilu' vci*;,''*' (tf llic jort'sf, and on the I'ollnwinijf «liiy \V''
r«'iic!i('<l tlic smoky lint on tho ll(»;jifani<la wlu-rc wo had Id:
onr friends.'
Havin^jf thns aoeoni]>ani('d iMiihh'ntloril' on his advontin-oiis
Avandcrino-s thronyh Taiinnria, I Avill now ^'ive a hrii t
af'<'onnt <»f liis ohservations on tiu' cliniato and natnial
}ir<Mhi(li(»ns (if tliis nortlicrn land.
The remark of Sanssnre that the dilVereiice of teni|»eraturi'
between li^^'ht and shade is <;"reatest in sninnicr, ami in tli.'
liiLrh latitndes, was fnlly eonfii-nied l»y Middendnrff. While
the thermometer marked — i*?" in the shade, the hill sidr^
exposed to the snii were drijipin^ with wet, and towards tlir
en<l r»f ,Inne, tlionj^di the ]n«'an teinperatnre <tf the air was
still Itelow the freezin<x jHunt of water, the snow ha<l already
entirely disappeared <»n the snnny side of the 'J'ainuir rivn-.
Torrents came hrawlin^^ down the hills; the swollen riveis
rose fortv or sixty feet ahove their winter level, and earrinl
their icy eoverinj^- alont,' with them to the sea.
(Jii An^ust ;{, in the v«'ry middle of the short Taimnriaii
snnimer in 71° !•'>' of latitnde, Middendorlf hnnted hntterlli. s
nnder the shelter of a hill, hare-footed and in lifjfht under-
clothes. The thennonn'ter rose in the snn to 4-(»H°, and
close to the ;,'ronnd to -f Sd'', while at a short distance f>n ;i
spot exposed to the north-eastern air-current, it fell lit ome
to +27°.
The nndstnre of the air was very remarkalde. In i\rav
thick snow fo^s almost ])erpetually obscured the atmosjditii',
so that it was imjiossible to ascertain the position f>f tlie
sini. It appeared only in the evenin;^", or about midni;^lii.
and then re^'ularly a perpendicular colnmn of liuninoiis
whitem'ss «lescend»'d from its orl> t(» the t'arth, and, wideniiiL;
as it approached the hori/on, took the form an<l the ap-
peavance of a cohtssal lam]) (lame, sin h as the latter ai»peiii>
when seen thron<j;h the mists of a vapour bath. From the
sanu' canse parhelia and halos were very frecpient.
Onrinn" the daytime tho snow fo<jfs, in ]»erpetnal motion,
either entirely veiled the nearest objects, or ma^-nified tluii-
si/e. or exhibited them in a dancing; motion. In June, tli'-
(I.IMATi; OF TAIMIRLANI).
'J41>
siiow-f(»nf lioramc a vapour-fo^', wliich daily from timo to time
Id-coipitiitcd its surj>lus of luoistui'o in form of a liiu'lit rain,
Imt cvoii then tlic ni^'lits, particularly after cK'ven o'clock,
were mostly serene.
Kxperieiice i>rove<l contrary to Ara;^o's opinion that
llmiHlerstorms take place witliin the Arctic zone. The
jM'ri>etnal motion of the air was very i-emarkahle. The sun
]i;m1 merely to <lisai>pear hehind a chmd, t<.> j»rotluce at <»nce
ii yust of wind. Towards the end of An^-ust, the sontheni
;iiid the northern air-currents, like two contemlinj,' {j^iants,
lit'iran to strive for the masterv, until finallv the storms
i;iL;'ed with extn'me violence. But in these treeless deserts
tlit'ir fury finds nothing' to destroy.
It is impossible to form anythin*^ like a correct estimate
lit' the (piantity of snf»w which annually falls in the hij^hest
liititud<'s. So much is certain that it cannf»t be small, to
jud<^fe by the vi(»l«Mice and swellinq; of the rivers in sprin<:»'.
The sunnnits of the hills, and the declivities exposed to
tilt' rei^'nin<x winds, are constantly deprived of snow, which,
Imwever, fills np the bottom of the valleys to a considerable
liri'^dit. Great Avas Middendorff's astonishment, while tra-
vrllinjj: over the tundra at the end of winter, to find it
ciAcred with no more than two inches, or at the very ntmost
luilf a foot, of snow ; the dried stems of the Arctic plants
everywhere p<'e})in<^ forth above its surface. This was the
iiMtural consecpience of the north-easterly storms, which,
>\V(M'pin<x over the naked plain, carry the snow alonij with
llniM, and form the snow-waves, the compass of the northern
iMnnads.
It is extremely prf>bable that, on advancin*,' t<^»wards the
]>"h\ the fall of snow o-radually diminishes, as in tlw Alps,
wlii-re its (juantity likewise decreases on ascendin;;- above a
•■•■rtain hei<^'ht.
< Ml measuring the thickness f»f the ice, ^liddendorff was
vi'iy much snr[)rised to find it nowhere, both in the lakes
;iih1 on the river, thicker than ei<;ht feet, and sometimes
"lily four and a half; its thickness bein*,' constantly propor-
tinimte to the quaiiiit}' of snow with which it was covered.
At first he could hardly believe that this simple coverinj,*'
'I mid at^'ord so efficacious a protection against the extreme
2.i0
Tin: POLAR WOULD.
r<»M of winter in tlic 7M1> dcijn'*' of latihulc, l)ut iho fact \h
well known to the Saniojodes, who, whenever they re(|niif
water, always make the hole where the Kn«»w lies th'epeHt.
The tun«lr:i!S of 'Jaiiunria were found to consiwt princijtaliy
of arid plaleunx and vnahdjitin;^- heights, where the ve;^etati<»n
cannot conceal the houlders and the sand of which the crust
(►f the i'arth is forn»c<h
The withered tips of the <4:rasses scarcely differ in colour
from the dirty yelIow-l)rown nioHs, and the <;roen of tlie
lower part of tlie stalks appears us through a v«'il. NotliiuL:
can he of a nu»re <lrearv m<»notonv than this vegetation when
spread over a wide sui-face, hut in the hardly perceptible
depressions of tlie jdjiius where the sprin;^' water is ahle in
collect, a fresher «_;-re«'n ^'ains the Uj>])er hand, the stalks arc
not onlv loiiu'er l>ut stand closer to<«-('ther, and the jirass,
<^rowiu<;' to a, iieij^ht of three or even fonr inclu's, nsnr|»s the
phici,' of the nioss. Here and there snuill patches td' />>•//">•
iH'htlufiiln, <»r CiiKsii'i),' frlriiijtuiii, and mnch moiv rarely a
dwarf raniuicidus, diversify the dinn'y carpet, yet without
l)ein;4" ahle to relieve its Avearisoiu<' character. But very
ditferent, and indeed truly sur|trisin;4', is the asjx'ct of tlit>
shtpes whieh, faciuLj the Taimur lake or river, are j^rotectrd
a;j;ainst the late aiul early frosts. Here considerahlepatchts
of ^-roinid ar(> <'overed with a lively ^reen, interminn;l»'d with
<'ailv coloun'd llowers, snch as the hi'illiant vi'How .Sieversia,
the t'leiiant Oxytropis, the hlne and white Saxifra<;;"as, the red
Arunrln iilin'ini, and a heautiful new S2)ecies of Deljdiiniuiii.
All these various fiowers are not dwarfs of stunted growth,
for l*oh'nion<\s. Sisyndirias, Polyodnunis, and Paj»avers, aliovi-
a foot hiL;*h, decorate the slopes, and Middend(»rtf found an
islet in the Taiuiur covered like a field Avith a Senecio, of
Avhich some of the most conspicuous spocin)ens were mere
than a foot aiul a half hi^h, and hore no less than forty
flowers ahove an inch in diameter.
The pro;,n*ess of vegetation is uncommonly rapid, so that.
as INIiddendortt' renuirks, if any one wishes to see the erass
f>row. he must travel to the Taimnr. Hcarcely do tlii' tir>t
leavi's ]iee[) forth when the hlosstuns also ajipear, as it.
conscious of the early approach of autumn, they felt tin-
I'UulHCTIoNS oV TAI.MrUl,AM>.
251
iiiMMSsity of Itrinninn" tln-ir scrds^ in w r;i|>i<l mafiirity inidrr
this wiiiti-y sky.
With rt'LTiii'd to tlif iiuiiiiiit cn'ution, tlic ^rcMicnil law of
|M«!;ir iinifoiiiiitv was fullv ronllniit'd in 'riiinmr LiiiKl. Tlif
-.iiiK' li-nimiiiLi's wtMV t'ouiid which ix'ojtlc the whole iiorlh of
Asi;i ;iii(l Aiiicrica, iiiid as hi^h as 7") X. lal. Ihoy fomid llio
Ir.i Ts of ihc siiow-lian', Avhirli inhahils llio cninph'to cii'i It*
(f thi' Arctic i"»';^'i()iis of i\\o jj^hihc. The Ai'ctic fox, cvcn-
wliciciit h(»iiii' ill the treeless wastes, is here jilsn |iursiie<l
|p\ tlie northern eluttoit ; and followine: the herds <>f the rein-
(I'cr. tilt' Avolves. and tin* Sainojedes, r<»ains u|> and dnwn the
tMiiiliM. The ptarniitiiin. which in Sciindinavia and on Melville
Nliiiid feeds <»n herries and hnds, apjuMrs also as a sninnier
\i<itor at the nnmth of the 'I'aiimir in "'>' I' X. lat.. and the
i\"ry ;^iill <»f the northei'ii Miiroiieiin sens likewise hiiilds its
iii'>i (I
n the ro(dcs of that distant shitre
'flic more vi^'oriins ve^'ctatioii on the slieltered declivities
I r t!ie 'raiimir ]'rovides food Inr a c(ini|tarat ively ^renter
inMiilici' of insects than is found on the consts of Xovava.
/ iiilva. i»ces, hornets, and three ditlerent species of hiitter-
lli ■>. l>n//.ed or hovcred round the llowers. ;ind cnterpillars
ciiiilil l»e <_i'at lieretl Iiy do/.eiis on the tiindra. hut tlicii' mortal
ciictiiirs lia<l |»ursiicd them even here; and iciineiinion Hies
crept out of most of them. Tw(t s]»iders, several Hies, e-iiats,
;!iid tijiuia', a curcnlio, and half-a-do/.en carahi comiileted
.Miilden<lortl"s entoiiiolotiical list, to which, no doubt, further
ri scarcju's W(»uld hare i-oiisiderahly added.
Thus, at liic uorihei-n extremity of Asia, as in every other
I'iirt of the world, the naturalist linds the confirmation
ef the M-,.]i,.val law that, where the means of life are tiiveii,
III'' is sure to conio f<»rtli.
Jakr.ts.
criAPTER XIX.
THE JAKUTS.
Tlicir ciicrpctii' N;iti()iiiility--TIii ir T'l'sccnl- Their gloomy riiaracfcr Sinnin.i'
iiinl ^Villt(•r Dwrlliiips — The Jakut Horse- Inornlililo Powers of l-liuluniin > ..t
tlie Jjikiits - Tluir Sliari>iie.'-s of Vision — Suriirisiiifr Ini'al ^IcJimry 'I'li. ii-
inaiiual Dexterity- Ltallier. roiiiards, C'arjiets - Jakut tilutloiis- Superstitii'ii-
l''ear of tlio Mo\iiitain Spirit Jjjeseliei — Offerings of Horse-hair — Improvisnl
Songs — Tile Kivtr Jakut.
rilHE Jalvuts are a romarkably ener<jfotic race, for tlionuli
X subject to the Muscovite yoke, they not only successlully
maintain their lan^jnajj^e and manners, but even ini^jose ihvlr
own ton<?ue and customs upon tlie Russians who have
settled in their country. Thus in Jakutsk, or ihe ' cai>it;il
of the Jakiits,' as with not a little of national jn'ide iiiid
self-complacency the}' style that dreary city, their lanf»uii;ii'
is much more frequently spoken than the Russian, for almost
all the artisans are Jakuts, and even the rich fur-mercliiint
has not seldom a Jakut Avife, as no Russian now disdains an
alliance with one of that nation.
At Am;4inskoje, an oriorinally Russian settlement, Middiii-
dorff found the greatest ditliculty in procuriiio^ a jj^uide iiM''
( IIAHACTKK OK TIIK JAKUTS.
9/19
t(» s|M'iik tlio Russian laiij^Uii^'o, iiinl all llic Tnn<ifnso wliom
Im' met with iK'twt'Oi Jakutsk and Ocliotsk (imh'rstnod ami
s|Mikt> Jakut, whicli is tlins tlit> (loiiiiiiaiit laii;^nia;^^<> t'nnii
till' basin (»t' liif Lena to the fxtiTiin' ('ast«'ni (•(•iitincs of
Sihcria. In trnth, no Unssian workmen can fompfto with
till" .laknts, whoso cnnnin;^', an<l ctrrontcry W(MiI(1 niaku it
(lilliiMilt even for a Jew to prosper amon^' them.
Though of a IMoii^'olian physiognomy, their hin^j^na^'e,
wliieh is said to be intelli^'iblo at ('onstaiitin<»i»le, distinctly
|.(iiiits to a Turk extraction, and their traditions sp«'ak of
tht'ir original seats as situated on the liaikal and Aiijjfora,
whence, retn-atin^' l)efor«? more powerful hordes, thi'y ad-
viinced to the Lena, where in tlieirt\irn they disi»ossessed tlio
weaker tribes which they found in possession of the country.
At present, their chief abode is ah^n^ the banks of that
iiiiniense river, wliich they occupy at h'ast as far southward
iistheAhhm. Eastward they are found on the Kcdyma,
and westward as far as the Jenisei. Their total nundn'r
iiiiiounts to about 2tH),000, and they ft)rin tlu> chief part
ef the population of the vast but almost desert pntvince of
Jakiitsk.
They are essentially a pastoral i>eople, and tlu'ir cliief
wt ahh consists in horses and cattle, though the n(»rthern
l"ii'ti(»n of their nation is reduced to the reindeer and the
ili"4'. Besides the bre(,'din^ of horses, the Russian fur-trade
lias developed an industrial form of the hunt<'r's state, so
that amongst the Jakuts property accunudati's, and we have
a liiifjier civilisation than Avill be found elsewhere in the
same latitude, Iceland, Finland, and Norway alone excei»ted.
<M'an unsocial and reserved dis[>osition, they prefer a soli-
tarv settlement, but at the sanu* time they are very hospi-
talile, and <^'ive the stran<j^er who claims their assistance
a fVicndly welcome. Villau'es consisting;' of sevei-al huts, or
./"/•/x, are rare, and found only between Jakutsk and the
Aldan, where the population is somewhat denser. JJeyond
the Wcrclntjansk ridjjfe, the solitary huts are frequently
M'veral hundred versts apart, so that the nearest neighbours
sometimes do not see each other for years.
In summer the Jakut herdsmen live in ' Urossv,' li<dit
coiiieal tents fixed on poles and covered with birch rind, and
•2.U
TiFK rol.Ai: WnlM.U
•lnriiii,' this wlinic s'nsuii tlicy iir»' pcrjM'tuall} I'lintloycd lit
iMiikiii;^' liiiy I'nr tlic Imi"^'' winter.
Ill i'tl' N. lilt, and ill ii t'liinatc <»f an aliiit»st miparallfl. .1
st'vt'i'il V, tilt' rt-ariii;^' of their cattle causes them far nnir.'
tnmhie than is the case with any (»ther pastoral |>eo|.|.'.
Their sn|»|»ly of hay is freijueiitly exhausted hefore the cud
of the winter, and from Alartdi to May their oxen musi
p'lierally he c«mtent with willow and Idrtdi twii^soi- sai>lini;<.
At the he«,nnnin;^' of the c(dd season, the Jakut ext hanu'e-i
his summer tent for his warm winter residence, or jm-f, a
hut hnilt of heaiiis ur lo^'s, in the foiaii of a truncated )»y-
raniid, and thickly covere(l with turf and clay. IMates of i. ,■
serve as windows, and are rejdaced l»y rishl>hnlders or i»a]ier
slee|ied ill oil, as soon as the thaw l)e;;ins. 'J'he «'ai1h(ii
floor, for it is hut rarely hoanh'd, is i^enerally sunk two oi-
three feet below the surface of the ^'round. 'JMie seals ai;d
sleeping' berths arc raiij^cd alon;^* the sides, and the centre is
oi'c(i|»ied by the tstliinrnl, oi* hearth, tia' smoke ol' whiili
liiids i!s exit throun'h an ajierture in the root', rlnthes and
arms aiv suspended from the walls, aial the whole premises
c'xhil>it a sad jdcture of disorder and lilth. Is'ear the jmi
are stables for the cows, l)ut Avhen the cold is \cry srvriv.
those useful animals arc received into the family room. A^
for the horses, thev remain ni;iht and dav Avithoul a shelter.
at a tem[terature when mercury freezes, and are oldi^-ed {<>
feed on the withered autumnal li'rass, whicdi they find iindi !•
the snow. These creatures. Avhose ]»«>wers «d' endui'aiice aie
almost incredible, chaii^'e their hair in summer like the other
<pridrii[>eds of tla^ Arctii- re^-ioiis. They keep their stren^lli,
thoUL^'h travtdlinLj; perhaps lor months through the wilder-
ness without any (»tlier food than the parched, half-r(»tteii
;.>'rass met with on the way. They retain their teeth to oM
ai^e, and remain A'ouny much h>ny'i'r than our horses. ' lie
who thinks of iniprovine- the Jakut horse,' says Von ]\lii-
dendortt', 'aims at sonietliine- like perfection. Fancy tlr'
worst conceivable roads, and for nonrishnient the bark of tin'
lareli and willow, with hard o-vass-stalks instead of <^>ats; or
merely traA'el on tlie post-road to Jakutsk, and see the horses
that have just run forty versts without stop[iinii-, and are
KXTIIAOIMUNAKV SII\UI'M:>S n|' MsloN.
■i.'>i
nvt'r('<l with iM'rs|tinitiuii niid rouni, ositiii^' tin ir liiiv in tin-
'|n'ii iiir without tho sli^^lttcst covcrinij:, at ii t» iiiiMratiir*'
l»iit the Jiikiil himsi'lf is iu» h-ss lianlcin'il aLrain.-t the
■ M than his linthtnl horsf. M )n hrcrnilMM- !»,
;i\s
\Vi-
in-
'jvll. ' wf hi\«tnackt't| naind a lin*, at a trin|i"i"atni-i' of —•_'*>,
I'll an ojH'n ]»astnrt.' i^'rouinl, which alt'onh'd no >ht'ltrr aLTiiin^t
lilt' northern hhist. Ih'n' I haW an cxiflli'nt o|.|.i.rtiniit v lor
iiihnii'inL,' tho Mni)arall»'h'<l |Miwt'rs of ondurantr of unr .lakut
;ittt'n»hints. ( )n thf h>n;^'«'sl winlor join-no v t hoy take in-it h< r
t'lits nor extra eoverinLCs alonn- with them, not even one of
the larLfer fnr-»h*esses. Whih* travellin'^, the .laknt eonteiils
liimself with his nsnal dress; in this he <_jeiieiMlIv slet'|i^ in
the open air; a horse v\\<j; stretehed oiit npon the siiow is
lii^ hed, a woo(h'n saddle liis ['illow. With the same fnr
j;icket whi(di serves him h\ davtinie as a dres<, and wliieh
Ih' jinlks oil' wlien lie lies down for the niL^liI, lie decks his
ImcU and s1i<»ultlers, while the front pai't of his ImmIv i-;
Imiied towards the lire, almost without anv eov.TiiiL;-. lie
tlicu stops his nttse and eai's with small |»ieces of ski'i. and
Clivers Ids fa<'i' so as to h-ave hut a small oiteiiin:;' for hreath-
inu these are all the precautions he takes a 'gainst the soyerest
cnld. jlyen in Siberia the Jaknts are called '* men of iron."
<Mtcn have I seen them sleeping' ;|{ ii ti'm]>eiMl in e of — !■ in
til' open air. near an extin^-nished hivoiiac lift-, and v.ith a
tiiiik' ici'-rind eoveriniLv their almost niipr<.tc,tfd Ii.mIv.'
.Mt»st of theJakuts have an iiicredilde sharpne-s of \ isi"n.
< ijie of' them told Lieutenaid Anjoii. point ini:' to the plaiici
.liii'iter, that he had often si>en vonder blue star di-\onr a
Miaiier one, sin(
Itl
u'li after a time east it out aL;ain.
hen*
I'ical momorv is no less astonishinu" : a pool nt' water, n lare'e
^tlale, a solitary hush imprints itsell" deeply into iheii rc-
iMcjiilirance. and L^uides tiieui after a lapse <.f \ears lliroaM-|i
ilie boundless wiKleruess. In manual dexterity tbey surpass
all other Siberian nations, and sonn.' of their article^, such
their poniards and their h-ather, miuht ti^ure with credit
ill any European exhibiti<.)n. L(»n<^ before the itus>ian con-
as
* 1Iiiiii!mi1i1i lik<\\i>r iiii'iitii)iis an Mi'ti-;\ii '
f I!
1-1. lU wli-^i' ^i-ht wa»
n« 111 ciial.l.' Ii'mii t'l I'liiiit mil tlic iiu-ition ^,\ .lupitiT- >,iti'!
iV[>
itC!
256
TIIK rOLAIl WORLD.
quest they made use of the irou ore on the Wihii to mann-
faetnre 1h<'ir own knives and axes, which, either t'nan the
excellence of the material or of the workiminshij), rarely
hreiik, even in the severest cold — a perfection which the
best Shetlield ware does not attain. Since time imm«'mori:il
they have been acquainted with the art of strikini^- fire with
flint and steel, an invention unknown even to the ancient
Greeks and llomans. Their leather is perfectly water-ti<»'ht,
and the women make carpets of white and coloured skins
which are even exported to Europe. It is almost super-
fluous to uiention that a people so capable of bearing' hard-
ships, so sharp-witted and so eaj^'er for <4'!iin, as the Jakuts,
must nei'ds pnrsue the fnr-bearing" animals with which their
forests abound with untirini,^ zeal and a wonderful dexterity.
The horse renders the Jakut services not less important
than those of the reindeer to the Saniojede or the La[)p.
Besides usinjj;' it for carrying- or ridin;^-, the Jakut makes
articles of dress out of its skin, and tishin<^--nets of its hair;
boiled horse meat is his favourite food, and sour mare's milk,
or liai)n/KK, his chief beveraj^v. Of the latter lu' also makes a
thick porrid^^v, or ytthinidt, by mixin<^ it with rye flour, or the
inner rin<l of the larch c»r fir-tree, to which he frequently
adds dried flsh and berries, and, to render it i)erfect, a (juau-
tity of rancid fat, of which he is immoderately fond, lie is
in fact a <^'ross feeder, and some professional <,^luttons are
capable of consinnin;^- such astonishing* masses as to shame
the appetite even of an Esquimaux. During his stay at
Jakutsk, Sir Gieorge Simpson put the abilities of two dis-
tinguished artists to the test, by setting two pouds of boiled
beef and apoud of melted butter before them. Each of theiii
got a poud of meat for his share ; the butter they Avere allowed
to ladle out and drink ad libitum. The one was old and
experienced, the other young and full of zeal. At flrst the
Litter had the advantage. ' His teeth are good,' said tin;
elder luimpion, ' but with the assistance of my saint (crossing'
himself), I will soon C(»me uj) to him.'
When about half of their task was finished, Sii' George
left his n(»ble guests to the care and insi)ectiou of his secre-
tary, but when he returned a few hours after, luMvas inforuicd
that all was consnmed. while the champions, stretched out on
tllARACTKU OF TIIK JAKITS.
> maun-
•oiii the
, viircly
ich tlir
[♦'iimrinl
ire with
aiK'i<'iit
'r-tio-ht,
'd skins
t super-
g liiir«l-
Jukuts,
I'll tlit'ir
L'xteritv.
iiportaiit
o Lapp,
t makes
its hair ;
•e'suiilk,
iiiakfs ti
r, or llu'
cqiu'iilly
a (piaii-
lle is
oiis are
) shame
stay at
wo (lis-
f boiled
of theia
allowed
cdd and
tirst 111.'
said lilt'
crosshig
GoorL^e
IS seere-
intornied
'il out I m
llio floor, ('o:ifirnied the se Totary's i-eporl. and expressoil their
llianks for the (.'xorldtant inejil they had enjoy<^d by respeet-
fidly kissini; the ;,froMnd. After one of these dis^nstinLT
I'euts, the ijor^'ed L;luttoiis LTenerally reniiiin tor tliive or four
days jduii^''ed in a torpid stale like boa snakes, witlunit
-aiiuii" or drinking-, and are frecjnently ndh.'d about on the
ui'i'iind to jironiote <liL:'esti<»n. It may also be iiotieed, as
a proof <d' the low stale of intelleetual eultiire ;imon<^f tlie
jaknts. that at e\ery AviddinLf anionic the rieher elass two
]i!'. if.'ssed virtuosi in the art of ^ornumdiziuLj are rej^'idarly
invited for the enlertainineiit of t)ie quests. One <d" tliem
i^ IlV'lted at the iMMdeLfroom's expense, the other at that
i.t'ihe bi'ide, and the party whose (diampioii ^-aiiis the vietoi-y
i'.iii>iders it as a ^'ood (tnien fa* the future.
The Jaknts, liesifh's liein;;' a ))re-emine)it ly pastoral peojde,
;iie aNo tlie univ.'r>al eaniers to tjie cast of the Lena. For
lii'Vdiid .Jakuislx. tlie only roads are narrow paths leading"
tlii'iiiLi'li swamps, (huse foi-ests, or tanyled bushes, so that
ilh iioise affords the only means ot" rea<d»in;a" the more even
will lower countries wlu-re rein<leor or do^s can be attached
\ < -ledo-es. AVithont the Jakut and his liorsi'. the Russian
n.iiiid nev<'r have been able to penetrate to the sea of
'ii'lioisk, and fr<tm theneo lo ihe Aleutian (diain ; but for
Il 111. lliey never \\oul<l have sittled on the Kolyma, nor hnvo
"I'lii'd a eonimereial intei-eoinse with the T*duikt(dii and the
'vvi-i.'i'ii l'ls(juinuiux.
Ill fore the jiossessioj, (d'tlie Amur had ojiened a new road
< I'M;!
MiieiTe. thousands of ]iaek-hi>rses used annually to
d'c-s the Stanowoi liijl.^ on 1 h- way lo ( M hot>k : and when w»!
inii-^iilrr the dreadl'iil hai'd>!.'ps of i he journey, we eaniiot
\V"i!,]rr ili;it tlie i-itad wa> nniro thiekly strewn with the
-kfii'loiis of fallen horses than the earaxan routes thi-ou^'h
M • (I
•rt with the boih
an
li-hed eannds. iJut the
•I:dNiit t'rars neithi'r the icy eol 1 of the bi\oua<- nor the p
1 ; 1 M-,s
Miii:fer. whicli. 111 spite- ot Jus wollisli voracity
f h
: ■!'' io sMitpoi't with stoical fortitude. He fears iitdther the
-!"iiii on tlu> naked hill, nor the ^^dooin of" the fort-st, no)- tho
'1 p'li of th.' morass; and. bidding* defiance to e\ei'vthino'
' 1-''. Ie;ns only the invisifde power <d' ' ijieschei," the s[)irit
■' iiie iiiountain and the wood. The travellei- wonders when
258
Tin: roi.AK woi!m».
ho st'os on iiii cinincncc crowiit'd witli firs, jm (»M tree frnin
Avli(»S(' hi'iiiiclics li;iii^" ImiiicIk'S of liorsc-liilir. Tlie J;ikiit
who Icinls tlic ciirjiViiii soon t'X[>liiins Iht* inystrry. He
<Hsnionnls, iiiul plnckint^^ ii W'w hiiirs I'roni ilio niiiiK' <'l' lii--
horso. iilt;i('h('S llirm Avith ;i ^rcat sliow «»!' r<'s[icct to ;i
briMM'h, iis iin oll'crin;;- io |»ro]iiti!it(' the f'iivonr of I.jcscliii
<»n the jonrncy. I'lvcn those Jiilcnts who pass for Christian-,
still pay this mark of respect to the dethroned divinity (if
their fathers; and there can l>e no donltt that they still
retain the old belief in Sehamanisni, and an ahject fmr
(»f all Sorts of evil sjdrits.
While travelling" they siiii^- almost ]>erpetnally nn-laii-
eholy times, correspond in;^' with the hahitnal nlooni n\'
their national character. The text has more variety ainl
poetry, and y'enerally celehrates the beauties of nature, ili,
stately <;Towth of the pine, the mnrnuiriiiLi' of the l)rook. m
the grandeur of the mountain. The sin<^-ers are mostly i
provisators, and to conciliate the favour <»f Ljeschei, tl
praise the desert throu<^"h Avhich they pass, as if it wei't
III
ii'\
1
taradise
li
Like the impoverished Samojede or La]>i», the iiidi«
■lit
Jakut, who possesses neither cattle nor hor
ses, St
ttl
es U'
nun;
il is 1
lis (
lo-,
WllM
the fish on a liiiht sledu'e from the river bank t
O III
1' Ill-
some stream. His oidv domestic a
carries
hut, or follows him into the wocmIs on his hunt inti" ex[)edit
With the skins of fur-bearing^ animals he pays his Jassn
and is fj;"lad if the surplus allows him to indulii'e from tin
to time ill the luxury of a pipe of Circassian tobacco.
TiiL Wi.isLling S'.vau.
CIIAITKK* XX.
\vi;.\X(;i;i,i.
Ili~ >li^iiii:.'iii>li''i .'^'■I'v
UTS a~ all
AiTii.- Kxi'lun r--l'
I'Mll. 1. |rP>.|illl'-l| !•. .I.ikut-
ISJM — Tnul-' >it' .lakii'-k Im'-iii ,lakiit-k L. \i~li,;.' !\mI vni-k -Tlir i)
Dr. .■iillul Cli
lair of Ni--liiii' IvpIviii
'ilininrr I l;r_;il(
1 iTi la! mn
Aiiiiiial LitV — I
\rllMlCfr
lluiitiim'--l'"aiiiiiu-— Imunlat
mil- I lir Silirriau I '■
l'ii>t .Idiu'iicv.-. (ivi-r tile Ii'c lit' till- I'lilar S(a. ami Mxpl.irai ion ul tin- Ci.a-i
.ml Ca)..' Slichi:;~kiM in 1 M' 1 hr.a.lliil I'aii-. r- aii.l llanl-hii'S— Matiii-.,'li-
li
kiiiV Sit'dpt' ■Ii.iirii.v i.\ . r tlir l'..larS.'a in ISj'J I,a-I A.|\i ul iii-. ~ .m i lir I'.ilar
."^la-A liiui t'.r Lit'. - li'itiirn I.) St. I'rit rsLui-ii.
T
rpiIE ('X[)c'(liti<»ii.s wliirli Iiud licfii sent <.nt diiriiiu' tli,-
ffiL^'ii v\' the Eiiiprcs.s Anna lor tlic cxjdoratidn >>[' the
Ak lie slioivs (»t' eastt'i'ii Siberia, lia<l pevi'onnefl tln'ir hisk
>" Iiadly, as to leave them still alinnsl tutally iinkimwn.
Tn till up this blank in ^eo^'rajiliv. (he Kni[M'riif AlcxamliT
•TiliTeil two new expeditions to be litted <iut in I>l!o, tiii" the
liin'|)(ise (if accurately ascertainiie^ the limits of llii'sc cx-
tiviii,. t'nmtiers of his innnense entpire. Of tlic nnc wliirb,
•V riicul^'iiant Anjou. ('(.immeiu-eil its oiicral inn-; tVdiii tin"
til of till' .Fana. and coniii)'isc(] within its rai.Li'e Xcw
iiiii
nn.u
Mill
ria autl tlii- ntlier i>lands of tlif iiaclniw L;'i"iin|t. but
200
TlIK I'OLAil WOULD.
little has boon coinnmiiioated to tho, jiublio, all his papois
liavinjT!' boon aooidontally burnt ; but tlio travols of LioutiMiaiit
von ^Vraii<;t'll, tlio ooiuniandor of tlio st'c<»n(l ox]>o(liti(»ii.
liavo obtained a Avorld-wido oolobritv. StartiuLj from tlif
mouths of tlio Kolyma, ho not onlv rootitiod tho orr(»rs of
the coiist-lino of Siberia, from tho Indijiirka in tho west In
Koliutschin Island in tho oast, but more than one*- vonturtil
in a slod^'o upon tho Polar Ocean, in tho hopes of discovoriiiu
;l lari^'o ooimtry supposed to bo situated to the nortliAvard of
liotelnoi and Now Siberia.
Wrano-ell left St. Potersburo- on ]\lareh 2:1, 1820, an^l
experionein<jf in his journey of :5. .">(»(► miles repeated alter-
nations of sj»rin^' an<l winter, arrived at Irkutsk, where llir
<;-ardens wer(> in full Hower, on May 20.
After a niontlTs rest, a short jotu'noy lirou;^lit him ^» tin'
bai'ks (»f the lieini, on whieh he (Mubarked t-»n Jniu' 27. 1"
descend to Jakutsk, which he reached on July 27. Tlii^
s!nall lowu <if 1.000 inliabilaiits bears the ^'loomy stamp ol
the fi'iu'id north, for Ihou-jli it has a few ^'odd hoiisi's, lis
dwelliuii's ehielly eonsist of the widter jurts of the Jakuts.
Avith t ui'f-covere<l rot»fs. doni's of skins, and "windows of t;ili'
or ]C(>
Tl
10 onlv
; 1 1 1
lit ' of this <lrearv plaee is tl
le (I
ruinous ostroi^* or \\'0(idi'ii fort built by the t'ossacks, the (
qnerors of the country, in 1<»I7. .l-akntsk is the centn
tlu^ interior trade of Silx-ria. To this plaie are brou;4-ht.
<')iormous (plant it ies. furs of all kinds. w"alnis teeth ;
niammotli tusks, tVoin distances of many thoii.-antl vers!.-, \i
an amount of half a million of pounds.
' .if
ill
!l|il
Tli(> eonr.veivial sjdiere of the .laknt^lc merchants i
S (ll
an immense extent. During' a cold of ten and 1weiii\
(h'li'i'ees
tliev set out for the- LiichoW Isles, for the I'
l!r e
Ostrownoje, for Ocliolslc, (»r Kjachta. Jakutsk mercli,i,i;>
-wert> the tirst who ventured in cr.i/.y ships across the sea el
Kamtschatka, and disc(»vered the island of Kadjiak, ei^
deti-r
ill *
■ees o
f loii''"itudo from their lunnc
On September 1 2, ^Vran^•ell left Jakutsk. where reeiilm
travollinj^' I'uds. as from thence to Kolynisk. and e-eneiMl!\
throue-hout Noi'thern Siberia, there are no beaten roa^ls
The utmost thai i-an be looked for ai'e foot or hoise-tr.nle
h^Kliuii' throno'lt morasses or tamded foi-ests. and oyer vi»-i-
3 papois
_Hlt)Mlllllt
|u'»liti<>ii.
rom tilt'
.n'l'ors of
' west tu
vonturr<l
iC'<iV(M'iiiL;'
Invard of
S2(», aiiil
I'd iiltcr-
rlicrr lli''
111 to till'
iH' 27. to
:7. Tlii<
st:iin[i ct
KiilSi's, its
I' Jakuts.
vs ot" t;il.'
Ill,' "h\
tho ('"'n-
•t'litrc "f
tiv^-lit. in
.'til aihl
versl>. I"
•lis i> "!
ij twiiiiy
l;iir "'
iit'i't'lniii'-
he i'^ca "I
ik, «'iu!il.^
V Vf^'lllil''
^cncviii!}
ell r(ia'l>.
i'si'-tr,ii-l^-
V,>V I'dcl^-
THi: IJAKAKANY.
201
;i!i(l monnfains. Travellers prttceod «»ii horseback throuy-h
till' liillv comitrv, and on reaeliinix the iilains, \ise sled^'es
liiawii either by reindeer ordi>o-s.
In till.' manner AVran^'ell emssed from the b;isin of the
Li'iia to that of the Y'ana, never cxj rit'iirinn- u higher tcm-
jHiatm-f tl.uin +2, and freijucntly endurinu" a rold ol mon'
ihan — I 2", dnrin^" the jonrni'v ovt-r the intt'rveninu' hills, and
ilicn tnrnini^' eastward, travrrs.'d the Hadarany. a ronijili'tfly
uiiinliabited desert, eliii'lly consistinu" of s\v;t!n|is. Tlnse
ll,i(l:ir;iny never entii't'ly drv np. even iiflei' tli>' loju^-cst
-i;iiMiii'r-dronL;'l)t. At that linn' a >olid iTust is foi-nicd,
ihi'oM^li which t!i(.' horses fre(|ueiitly Ici a!<, lial tliey ni'e jii'e-
< ■r\ed fr(»m totally sinking- in the nilre. I'y the |iei'jietn;dly
iV'Z'n under^'ronnd. Nothing- can he more dismal and di'eary
tliiii the Jiadarany. As far as the eye reaches, nothing;' is to
1"' seen hnt a covering' of dini^'y inos.-, I'elievi'd here idkI there
'Ml Minit.' more elevated s{m)<s hv wretched sjiecinjens ol' dwai'f-
liiivjies. The winti'r is the oidy season for tra\ 'rsin^• this
1 [•■■.icherons waste, hnt w<ie to the' traveller shoidd lu' he
i.\' i'taken by a sno\v-sl<»rm, as for miles and miles th< I'e is
11" >|ielter to he found hut that td' Some ruinous jiowarni, or
jHi-^t-slation.
Al leijo'th, lifty-two days after lea\ inu' Jakutsk. ^Vran^ell
arrived on November l! at Xishm' K'olymsk, the apjiointed
liiMd-(jnartei's of the exi>eiliti(Ui, uhere he was welcomed
with a Cold of — lO', ov 7'2' below the free/in^' [K.int of
Water.
liven in SilxM'ia the climate of this jilace is ill-reiiuted for
it- severity, which is as much (]\\i' to its nnfavoin'ablo [lo-
>i;!en as to its hie'h latitude tt"^ N.'. The town >ianils on
a li'W swamiiv island of tin* Kolvma. having- on the we>t
J- «. •
the barren tundra, and on the iioi-th the Arctic Ocean, so
iIiu'l the almost constant north-west wimls have full sco[ie
fr their violence, and cause l're(|ucnt snow-sloi-nis even in
summer.
The mean temperattn'e of tlw whole year is only 4-11^.
The river at Xishne Kolymslc freezes early in September, hut
l"\ver down, wln.'re the current is less rapiil. loaded horst s
'Mil sometimes cross on the ice lu early as Auyust 20, nor
'l"i's the iee ever melt before Juno.
m^
Tin: roi-AK \v(»i:m».
II '
Alllioiij^'h (lie SIP' miiiiiiis fil'l v-f\vu <liiy< iilnivf llic liori/on.
lilt' li^'lil, ol»sciir('(l l)y ill I Host |m'1'|»('1u;iI mists, is iirroiiijiiiiiitij
with littlt' lu'iit, iiiitl the suliir disk, (•(iiiijti'cssfd liy n'tnictioii
into iiii »'lli]»tic:il tonii, iiuiy lie look-cd )it witli tlic iiiikrtl cyu
witlioiit iiicoiivriiiciicc. Ill spitt' of til mstaut liLi'ht, tin-
conniioii oi'iltT of tlic j»iirts of tin- il;iy is |i!aiiily (lisccni-
ible. When the sun sinks down to tin* liori/oii. all niiturr is
mute, l)iit when, after a few lioiirs. it risfs in the ski<s,
everything awakens, tilt' few little hinls hreak out in feelilr
twitter, anil the shrivelletl llowei-s venture to o[ien their
petals.
Althou;;"h winter and sunniier are in reality tin.' onl}' seasons.
vet the inhahitants fanev tliev have sitriiiLi' when about noun
the rays of the sun hey-in to make themselves felt, which
jjfenerally takes plaee about the mitldle of March, but tliis
so-oalle<l spriiiLH" luis frequent ni^-ht frosts of twenty de^^'et-s.
Their autumn is reekoned from the time when the rivers
beiji^in to freeze over, that is, from the iirst tlays of Septembei'.
Avheu a ci>M of thirtv de<«'rees is alreatlv bv no means iiii-
common. As nniy easily be supposed in a climate like this.
the vee-etation of summer is scarcely more than a struu'ul''
for existence.
Tn the latter end oi' May the stunted willo\v-l»uslies ]'iit
out little wrinkletl leaves, ami those banks which sli>pe te-
wartls the south become dothetl with a senii-vertlant lni":
in June the temperature at noon attains 72 ; the fltiwcrs
show themselves, ami the ben-y-bearinn' i»lants blossom.
when sometimes an icy' blast from the sea destroys tln'
bloom. Tht> air is clearest in July, ami the temperature
is usually mild, but then a new }»la«4'ue arises for the torment
(»f man. Millit»ns and millions of niosf|uitoes issue from tiic
swanqis of the tuiitlra, ami comiiel the inhabitants to seek
refut^t' in the tlense ami pun;;"ent smt»ke of the ' dyniokiuy.'
or larii'e heaps of fallen leaves an<l damp wood, which nrc
kiiiiUed near the dwelling's and on the pasture uTounds, as the
onlv means of ketMiini'' ()ff those iibtmiinabK* insects.
These tormentors, however, are not without use, for tiny
compel the reintleer to nii(.:Tati' frtiiii the jbi-ests to the sea-
shore and the iie. thus exposiu2' them tti the nttaek ol' the
hunters, antl they alsvt prevent tlit> horn's Iroiii strayiiii;' in
(•I.IMATK Ol' MSIINK K()!A.MSK.
i»r,3
till' iihiins, iiiitl w.iiiilt'i'iiiu;' lu'voinl tlio in'otoctioii of tlio
-iin 'K'l'.
Sriirci'ly is tlic nn>s(jiiit(» pl;iou,> ;\\ jni oinl, wln'U the dcnsL'
.Hitimiii lo^s risiii;^" tVum ihc sen spoil tlit' (.'iijoyiiicnt of the
h-'t iiiiM h<»urs wliicli iirciL'th' the iiiiic months' wiiittT. in
.liiiiiiiiiy. the (•(•M iiicrt-ascs Id — l-'t ; hivatliiiiy- Iht'ii bocouii'S
ilitrK-iilt ; ihc wild rciiidn'r, the iiidiLi't'iioiis inhahitiint of the
I'dlar i'(>yi(>ii, wit lidraws to the thickest pai'l of the I'orest,
ami sjaiids there mot ioiilrss, as if deprivi'd of life.
With the '2'2\h\ Xovemlx'i- lu'i^in.-, a iiii:ht of thivty-fiijfht
ila\s. relieved in soiiie (It'o-rce hv the stronir refraction and the
wliitf of the snow, as well as hy the moon and tiie aurora.
< »ii the 2sth l)erend)er the first j»ale <^-lininierin;;f of dawn
appears, wliich even at noon does not ol)scnre the stars.
W itii the reappearance of the sun the cold increases, and
:s most intense in Fehruarv and j\[arch at the rising' of
ilif SUM. Mveii in winter. conii>letely deai* (hiys are very
rare, as the cold sea wind covers the land with nusts and
The chai'acter of the ve^'etation corresponds Avith that of
ilie climate. Moss, stunted i^rass. dwarlish willov,' sln'uhs,
aiv all that the ]ilace [iroduces. The iiei^hhourint;' valleys of
tile Aniuj, protected by mountains ai^ainst the sea wind, liave
a -omewhat richer llora. for here i^row l)erry-1.)earine' plaids,
ilie hirch. the i)o[ilar. ahsiidh, thyme, and the low creepin;^'
vIl'lPl
ar. This poverty. Jiowever, of the vep.'talde world is
iu'ly contrasted with tlie profusion <»f animal life over
th.
>e sliores
and on th(^ Polar Sea. Reindeer, elks, hears
ti'\e-:, sables, and ^'rey stpdrrels till the u[)land forests,
wliije stone foxes l)urrow iii the low •^•rounds. FiUornious
IliLilils of swans, ;4'eese, and ducks ai'rive in spring-, and
sirk deserts where thev mav moult and build their nests in
>arety. Ka;_i'les, owls, and ;^'ulls pursue their prey alony* the
>ia-(oast ; ptarnue'an run in trooj>s amou;^' the bushes; little
^11 i pes are bus v a mone- the brooks. In tlu' morasses the crows
uitlier I'ound the lints id' the natives; and when the sun
les in sprinii'. the traveller may even s(»metiiiies hear the
■ of the liiicli. and in autumn that of the thrush, lint
-iiii
laixl
scape remains (
Irearv ami tlead : all denotes that hero
limits of the habitalde i-arth are [Kissed, ami one asks
204
THE ru LA U WUKMJ.
witli iistoiushmcnl wliiit foiild iiuliicc hmiiiui Ix'iii'^s ia lal\
p tlii'ir uIhkIc ill so comtortlcss a region y
u
111 ilic distrit't of Kolvinslc, wliici
I sui'iiiisscs iji size iii.'iiiv
ail Eiini|u'an kiii<,'<l(tiii. llic |H.|niI;iti()ii, at llic time (»t' W'ran-
^'f'lr.s visii, coiisistt'd of :;j."» ({ussiniis, I Jt:5 1 Jakiils. aii<l I . l-l'.t
.ill leu hi res of the liialc sex. of wlioiii li.lT-"'. liad to \K\y tli.
Jassak, fonsistinj^; of S0:» fox ainl 2>< snMc skins, woitli
0,7(il' roii])I('S, l)('si(l('s which llicy were iaxi'd to tlic aiiiounl
of 1(>,S 1-7 i'oiil)l('s ill nioiii'v. 'riins the Iiussi:tii doiilplf-ca-jli-
made, and no doubt still iiiaki s. tin' poor pcoiilf of Kolviii-k
pay rati II T dear for tin- honour of lis iii'_;' under the protfi-t i( n
of its talons.
Tilt' Cossacks, in viiiiic of (heir dcs-cnl from tlic orJLiinal
C'Oinpiorors of the country, enjoy the ciniahlc privilcLfc ff
l)t'ini>' tax free; tliov arc however, ohii^-' 'i to render niilitarv
S(n'vice A\hen retjuired
Tl
lit;
lev loriii the small e'arrisoii ef
Nishiio Kolvmsk, and evei'v \car twentv-live of lliem veiair
« ■ ( 1 1
to the fair of Ustrowm)je. to keej> the wild Trhuktclii ju
cheek. The Kiissiaus are chiefly the descendants ol' fiu'-
hunters (»r of exiles; ami tlioM^h they liave adopted tlic
native clothing' an<l iikkIc of life, they are still di>tiiii;iii.-]iaMe
by their more muscular frame. I'iie women. avIki are soin. -
what better lookinn' than the female Jakuts and Jukahircs,
arc fond of iniisie. and their ti'aditioual sonc-s dwell on llic
beauties of nature the rustliiiL;" brook, the flowery iiieail.
the iii^'htiiiti-ale's note all thiiii^s lteh.)nL;'iiig to a world I'l'
whiidi they have no id( a.
The dwellin^'-.s of the Russians are hardly to be distin-
^•uished from the jurts of the native tribes. They are luade
of drift-wood, and, as may easily be imauiued, are very small
and low. The interstices ari' carefully stopped np with
moss, and the outside is covered with a thit k layer (d' clav.
An external mud wall rises to the heiybt of the reof to kci'p
otf the wind. In a hut like this Wraiie-dl sjient iiiaiiy
a winter niontli, but when the eold was very intt'use. he
Avas not able to lay aside any ]>art of his fur clothiiiLi". thon-h
sittin<relose to a lar^'e lire. When he wanted to write' he had
to ket-'p the inkstand in hot wati'r;and at nitj-ht, wln'U the
lire was allowed to e-o (,ul lor a >hort time, his bedeh'tli 'S
were always covered with a thick snow-like rime.
TK.\IMN(J or SIJ:i)(JK-I)0(iS.
'it;
l/.i' niiiiu-
.f WlMl,"-
Ji.l l.l:!!t
l>:iy ill'
S, Wnl'tli
' itillOIIIlt
li|t'-t';|<^!.'
(\nl_VIi:-k
rotiM-iicii
' oriLiiiiiil
\ ill 'Ml. ,,|'
iiiilit;i!v
ri'i.-^titi nf
'111 T('|.;iiv
iktclii ill
; (.1" I'lir-
i]|p1('«1 til''
i'lii.'^liaMi'
Vi' Sullr-
iiknliliv-.
1 Otl til''
•y iik'ihI.
Wt.ivltl i'(
(' (lisliii-
irc iiiiiili'
vy siiia'l
wyt wit II
(if cla} .
f to kri |.
lit iiia;i\'
(•use. Ip'
;•. tlioii-h
,. 1h' h.'.l
lii'U lai-
■dck.tlb'.s
'I'ln' t'xisti'iici' of tilt' j»('(i]>lt' of Kojymsk (1)']i('Ih1s u|miii
lisliiiiL;' 1111(1 liiiiitiiiu', ill wliicli tlicy are iissislcd l»y tlicir
'liiM's. Tlicsc fiiitlifiil. l)iit criiclly-trciilcd iiiiiiiiiils. iirc siiid
111 ri'sciiililc the udlt'. liaviiiy Ioml;'. iiointcd. project in:;' noses,
.diar|i and ii|tiiL;lit ciirs, and loii^' Imsliy tails. Tlicir c(tIour
i- I'l iclc. In'ouii. rcddish-Iirowu, while, and s|Mitted, tlicir
liMWJiiii;' lliat of a wolf. In sninnier tliey dit:' holes in the
i^'i'dimd I'oi" coolness, or lie in the water to csca|>>' the
iiios(|n!t(»es : in winter ihey hurrow in the snow, and lie
i'iiil''d nji. with their noses coMTcd with their Imshv laiN.
Tile ]ire[pa rat ion of t hese animals for a jonrnev nmst lie carc-
I'liilv attend, 'd to; {\,y II forliiio'lij ;it Ica-t tliev should he
I III on a small allowance of hard t'ood, tocoincrl their su-
iMilliions flit into lii'ni lloli ; they must also he driNcn from
till to iweiiiy ndles daily, alter which they lia\e heen known
; • ti'.ivel a hnndi'ed niiies a day wilhoiit heinu;' injured hy it,
A team coii>i.-is coinnioiily of twelve do^s, and it is ot'
iinjMirtaiice that 1 hey should he acciistonied to dra w toLi'ct her.
file (jiiick and steady -^'oin^' of the team, as well as 1 he safety
■ ','llie tra\ellei'. mainly de]ien(ls on the docility an«l saL:a<'ity
'•I' the foreniost doo' or li-ailer. No jiains are thcrefori'
scared in liis education, so that he may nnderstaml ami
I'hcy his niaster\: orders, and |irevent the rt n1 IVoni sl;irtiii'^'
<m1' in |»nrsuit of the stone foxes oi- other animals that may
chance to cross their jiath. Their usual food is frozen tish,
and ten li'ood hcrriiiLi's are saidtoix' a pr(j[)er daily allowaiict*
I'T each (hiL;' wdiile on duty. AVheii not actively employed,
ihi'v are olili'_;('d to content themselves with offal, and
t'lwards s[irinu', when the winter's ]irovi>iions are ;^'euerally
cxlini^led, they suffer the keenest hnnu'er.
This season is also a hard time for i ho waii(h'riii^' t rihes
"1' 1 he iicii^hhoiirliood. Then tlicy llock to Nisline K'olymsk,
and to ihf other IJilssian settlemenls on the KoKiiia, hnt
I'e also famine stares ihem in the fai
TI
lere IS. nidecd. a.
(■( I
iijic corn magazine, hnt ihe [U'ice of Hour is raised hy llu;
■t of transport to such an exorhitant lieie-ht, as to be coin-
I'litely heyoiid the reach of the majority of tile people.
Tl:rei' such dreadtul sprin;^s did \\"ranu;'cll i>ass at Kolynisk,
v/uiiessiiiL;' scenes of misery never to l)e foro'otten.
liut when the distress < if the people has reached its highest
206
Till'. I'oLAK WoRl.lt.
]»oiMt, iclit'l is yoiHTiilly ;il Ii;iin1. 'ri'(K»)is of miyTiilury liiitls
t'oliic (Vniii ill*' siMitli, ;iinl I'liniish sollic fond tor IImj tlcspiiirill^
[Htjiiiliititin. Tilt' sii|>|tly is iiicrt'iiscd in .Imif, avIh-m tlir
ice WiTiiks (111 tilt' Kolyiii:!, lor in s|titt' <•!' tin' tiinltinrss cf
tlic nets iind the want of skill of the tisln'nin'ii, tlic rivrf
is the iifinri|»;il sonn-e of |ilriity diirin;^" tlu' su'iiiiicr, iiml
siii)|>lit's, moreover, tlit* fliiff jirovisioiis for the foljowin;,;
wintrr. Hut with tlu-sf y'ifts the Kolyma ln'in;^s tlir iila;;ii<'
of ininitlations, so that during' tlir siimnicr of Isl'2 Wimii-
^t'll was oblij^cd to s])i'nd ii whole week on the tiat roof nt
]iis hut.
'V\ii' chief rrsourco of the Jukahires of the river Aniuj i^
ilu> reindeer chase, the suct-ess of whiili mainly decidi--
whether famine or some de^'ree of comfort is to he tlieii' l>\
during' the coming- winter. The jMssai;"e of the reindnr
takes place twice :i year; in sprini^., when the mosijuitocs
compel them to set'k tht> sea-shore, where they feed on tin'
iiKtss of th(> tundra, and in antujiin, Avhen the iiicreasini;'
cold forces thmi to retire from the coast. Tlie spring'
mifjration, which hey'ins ahont the middle of ^Fay, is not veiy
profitable, partly because the animals are meai;"re, and tln'ir
furs in bad condition, and partly because it is moi-*' ditticult \ii
kill them as tlu'v pass the frozen rivers. The chief hunting-
is in Au^'ust and Se[»tember, when the herds, consisting* each
of s(»veral thousand <leer, return to the forests. They in-
variably cross the river at a particular s[iot, wliere a tint
sandy bank makes their landing- easier; and here they press
mttre closely to;^vther, under the j^iiidance of the stronL;cst
animals of the herd.
The passay-e takes place after some hesitation, and in a
few minutes the river is covered with swim]nin;j^ reinderr.
The liunters, hidden in creeks or behind stones and buslics.
now shoot forth in their small boats and wound as many as
they can. While thev are thus busv, thev run s<ime risk (4'
being' overturned in the turmoil, for the bucks defend them-
selves with their horns, their teeth, and their hind K ;:s,
while the roes g-enerally attempt to spring with their fore-
feet upon the edge of the boat. AVhen the hunter is thus
overset, his only chance of safety is to cling to a strong'
animal, which safelv brings him to tiie shore. iJut the
KKINDKKU lllNTIN(i.
•Jtj7
ry Itirils
<piiiriiiu
ini tllr
ilirss nf
ic rive)'
(•i% ami
illowiii-
Wn.ii-
rool' lit
Aiiiiij i>
(Icciilr-^
h.'ir l..t
rt'iiidcri'
iS(iiiito('s
1 oil lllf
cn'iisiii^'
• sjiriii:^'
not VI 'IV
ml tlii'ir
ttlcult In
liimtiiiL;'
iii;4" ciirli
11 icy in-
V a Hill
iry press
troiiL;'r>t
iiiil ill ;i
IHUllilt'i'l'.
l)U.slu'S,
iiKiiiy as
' risk I't'
\d tlifiii-
1h1 ll'LI'S,
icir i'lirr-
is ilins
11 .stnuiL;'
j;ut tilt'
.Icxfrrity of till' liiuitri's i-i'iidfrs such acciilriits rare A
■.;mih1 liiintfr will kill a Imiulrcil rfiinlccr aii*l more in halt'
III lioi;r. Jii the lucaiitiiiit' the other hoats sei/e the killed
animals, whieh heeonie their |ii'0|ierty, while those that are
merely woinnled and swim ashore l»elon;4' to the hunters, who,
III the midst of the tumult, whei'e all their eiierLiies are taxed
\<> the utmost, direct their strokes in sueh a manner as only
,>i\erely to w(»und the lare;er animals. The noise of the
lii'i'iis sti"ikin;4" a^i'ainst eaidi other, the watei's tinp'd with
111 1, the cries of the Inuiters, the snorting' of the allVii^'hted
iiiiiiiials. form a scene not to he descrihed.
'i"he peojile of the Aniuj were already sufterinpf ;;'reat
ilistress when, on Septemher ]'2, 1S:21, the eagerly cxjtcctcd
reindeer herds made their a[tpt'araiice on the ri-^ht hank of
the river, \ever had such a multitude heeii seen, they
(c'Vered the hills, and their horns mi;;'ht have hi'cu mis-
taken at a distance for a moving- forest, in a short time
iiimibers of the Siberian tribes had assend)led, ready to destroy
tliem. Jhit the wary animals, alarmed by some circumstance
"V o1her,took anothcrroad, and leaviui;' the l)anks of the river,
vanished on the mountains. The despaii* of the [»eoplc may
Im' imayined; some lamented aloud and wrun^' their hands,
iitliers threw themsehes upon the ;^'round and scratched uj>
tlie snow, others stood motionless like statues — a <lreadfiil
iiiiau'e of the universal mist'rv. The later iishin-jf season like-
wise failed in this deplorable year, and many hundreds died
ill the following- winter.
While the men c»f Kolymsk are busily employed durinj^-
llie short summer in hunting-, fishing-, and hay-making",
tile Women wander over the countrv, narticnlarlv in tia;
ninuntains, to ^'ather edibliM'oots, aromatic herbs, andbciTii'S
I't' various kinds, which latter, however, do not every year
arrive at maturitv. The berrv-<4'athei'iii'_;' here, like the
viiitai^'e elsewhere, is a time of nierrinient. The youiiu'er
vviiiiicn and L^'irls ;4"o to;;"ether in larj^V' pai'ties, ])assinL;' whole
ilays and nights in the open air. When the berries are
rnllected, cold water is poured over them, and they are pre-
served in a frozen state for a wint<'r treat. Smial parties
are not unknown at Kolymsk, and are perhajrs not less
' iilertaininu' than in more reliiieil communities. Hoods of
'2(iS
Till-; I'OI.AK WoULf).
Avciik ir;\ (for <lio nromiific IftivcH ' wliicli r-lit'or, Imt not
iii<'l»riiit<' ' nrt' very «l<'iii' iit K'nlyinsk) form (lie stii|ilt' nf tlic
• 'iitcrtiiiimiciit : iiml us Hii;_'!ir is also an cxiM'nsivc artii'lr,
every yiicst tiikes a liinip (trcaiKly in liis iimntli, lets tlie fni
wliicli lie sips (low l>y, and tlicn replaces il npon tlie saiici r.
It wmild l»i> <'()iisi(lere(l very nnniannerly wen' Iw to consnin ■
llie wliolc piicc, \\liicli llnis is al»le 1(» <lo duty at nnn'c tlnin
(Mil' siiirr,'. Next to tea, lirantly is a (dili-f rt'(piisite of n
J\olynislv ]iariy.
'lilt' Ittisiest time at K'olymslc is in l'\'l>i'nary, wlicn tln'
earavaii from .lakntsk arrives on its way to tie' fair of
( )sj ro\vnoj('.. Il consists of al>ont twenty niei'cliunts, each
of wlioiii lends IVcnii ten to foi'ty siinipter horses. This
is the time not only foi' sale and purchase, Imt also for le'ar-
inn" the last news from the jtroviiKMiil ca[iital .lakiitsk, and
receiviiio- inti'lli;;'ence six juohths (dd from ]\r«.>scow and St.
J*et('rsl)ui-^;h.
From this short
aci
■i>unt of Kolvnisk life it mav well h
iniay'ined what a sens.it itm it nnist have made in so setdiided
a 1
ilace \v
hen WraiiLi'ell arrived then' in >sovend.u'r, and ii
formed the people that he was come to speial the ln,'tter i»;ir
o
ft]
le nex
t tl
iree vcars anKae.
'_;• then
The Avinter -was jiassed in prei>aration for tlie next s]irin<^'
expeditions, for dnrim^- 1h<_' lon^' Arctic ni<4'lit the darkness
prevents travellinii'. and the snow ac(piires a ]ieculiar hard-
ness oi" sliarpness iVom the extreme cold, so that then four
times tlie nunil»er of do^s would be needed. lint as in
summer the thawing' is likewise a hindrance, WranLi'ell hail
in reality only about ten weeks every year, from ]\Iar( h till
the end (d'.^^ay, for the aecom[)lishmont of his task.
As may easily be supposed, it Avas no easy nnitter to make
th
nil'
le necessary arrane'cnients lor an expedition refpurin"^' soi
luindreds of doe's, and provisions for several Aveeks : Imt sm-li
Avas the enere'> disiilayed l)y WranevU and his coUeaynes,
that on February ll>, 1821, they Avere aide to start on their
first ioiirnevoA'er the ice of the Polar Sea, Avhich thev reached
on the '2^)\]i. Nine sled^^'es, Avith the nsnal team oi' twelve
dogs to each, wei-e provided for the present excursion, six of
Avhich were to carrv provisions and stores, to be distributed
in different depots^, and then to retnv
n.
The
proA'isions foi
AIKTK" TIIAVKI,.
*;<>!)
th.' \]n<XA consisted <»f 'J, |<M> iV.sll llcn-illu'S, jIImI iis iniK'll
• jiikolii ' !is was ('(juiviilciil fo sJ.'iO di'ii'tl lifrriii^s. Tin'
inert '11 si 111,' cold mid tlif violfiict' ofllic wind iiiadi' tra\flliiit,'
\i'rv diniciilt. To yuard tlic d()-j:> fV. iin ln'inu' iVi'/cn. tin'
ilrivi'is were (lUliiji'd to pnl clnfliiii'^' on llicir iMidics. and a
kind lit" Itool:-) on Ihfir t'ci't, w liidi u''i'''itl\ ini|MM|, ,| tln-ir
niiiiiiiii^'. At tiiiii's lln' iVost was so iiilrii>.'. th.it tlii- iin'riMirv
riii^calt'd uliilt' Wrati'/t'll was iiiaKiii'^' hi-; oli>. r\ at i"i!s. Il»«
tliiis dcsci'ilh's tijt' ntaiiM'T in wliidi li.' parsed lln- niijils nii
till' I'm] r Sea ill ids ti-iit :
• lii't wi't'M lea and sii|i]i''r llif sli'd<jt'-driviTS Wfiif «>iil lo
iiiii'iid and t'c'd llit'ir do^s, wliidi w<'n> always titd up tor
till' iiiijlif. lest tln-v slioiilil Ix' it'iiiiittd awav In tlic sci-iit ol"
^Miiit' wild aiiiiiial. ^[t'allwllill', wi- wen' I'li^^ipjcd in tom-
j:iriiii;' oiii" ol)si'i'\ alioiis. and in laving- down on llh' nsip the
^iToinid wliicli wo lia<l ;4'oii(' om'i* in lli" loinsi' ol' tin' da_\ ;
till' Ht'vcr*' cold, and tin' siiiokc wliirli n.-ualjy lilliMl Ihc tent.
^"luctiiiios niadi' lliis ii(» casv lask. Sn|.|icr always consistid
111' a siiin'lc dish of tisli or meat soup, wlii'li was lioilnl for ns
nil ill tilt' same 1\i't t [e. out of which it was catrn. S< . .u att<i-
^^|■ had lini>li«'d oiiv meal, tlie whole parly lay dM\';ii to slecj-.
< '11 acc(tunt of the cold wc coiihl not lay a.->iile a n; I'artofoiir
ir.ivejliiin^ dress, hut we re^ailarly chanu'cil oiir hoots and
stnclcin^'s every eveniii'j. ami Iiuiil;' those we InnI taken otV,
\\i'|i (Mir fur caps and li'Iovcs, on llie tent ]io|es to Avy. 'I'iii.s
i-; an essential preeantinn. part iciilaily in respect to :--iockiii;;s,
I 'T with damp clothiii;^- there is the o-vi-itcst risk of the pan
l''iii'_;' frozen. We always spread the hearskins hetweeii the
iVe/eii LTround ami ourselves, ami the t'ur coveriiiL^'s over ns.
;';id l)ei|l^• Avell tired we usually >!ept \ery soiimlly. A:- len^-
:is ail the sled^'c-drivers continued with us we were s(»
<i(iv;ded that wo had to place ourselves like the >poi,es of a
"\\liee!, with our feet towards the tire nn! oiir lie;i(ls au-aiiist
die tent wall. In the niornine- we ^^'eiiemlly !'ii-e al -Ix. lit.
'lie tire, and wasluMJ ourselves hefore it with i'l'i sh -;u< w : we
llii'ii took tea, and iniinodiately aflei'wards diiim r \vliieh\'>as
similar to the supper (tf the niL;ht hef<ire . '1 he t>'iit was
llieii struck, aud everything- jiaclced and stowed on tln^
slede'cs, and at nine Ave usually took our de]';irl ure.'
Tln> (diief imp<Mliments to jourueyiiiL;" "n the ice were
270
TIFK POLAK WORLD.
found to bo tlio Immiaoeks, ot'ton ei^'lity feet liig'li, wliicli lii-
in riJg'es at certain distiinees, pariillel perluips to tlie sliovf.
Alonjj;" the line or lines where the ice is periodically broken,
it is forced l>y 2)ressure and the tossing' of a tenipestnons sen
into those irregndar ridg-es throng-li which Wrangell hnd
sometimes to make a Avay with crow'bars for half a mile.
The 'polinyas/ or spaces of open w'ater in the midst of the
ice, oifered less hindrance, as they mig-ht be avoided ; but in
this neig'hbonrhood, and sometimes even where no hole in
the ice was visible, layers of salt were met with, which cut
the dogs' feet, and at the same time increased the labour of
the draft, the sled«j:es moving; over the salt with as much
difficulty as they would over gravel.
In spite of all these l.undrances, Wrangell extended Ins
exploration of the coast fifty versts beyond Cape Shelagskoi,
where the want of fuel and provisions compelled him to
return. The depots which he had made as he advanced,
were found partly devoured by the stone foxes and g-luttons,
so that the party was compelled to fast during- the two last
days of the journey. After an absence of three weeks Nishnc
Kolymsk appeared like a second Capua to Wrang-ell, but
time being- precious he allowed himself but a few days' rest,
and started afresh, on March 20, for Cape Shelag-skoi, with
the intention of penetrating- as far as possible to the North,
on the ice of the Polar Sea. The caravan consisted of
twenty-two sledges, laden with fuel and provisions for thirty
days, including food for 2 10 dogs. So imposing a train had
certainly never been seen bef(»re in these desolate regions,
for the part of the coast between the Kolyma and Capo
Shelagskoi is wholly uniidiabited ; on one side the occa-
sional excursions of the Russians terminate at the BaranoAv
rocks, and on the other the Tchuktchi do not cross the
larger Baraaow river. The intervening eighty ve.-sts of
coast are never visited by either party, but considered as
neutral ground. On April 1, Wrangell reached the borders
of the Polar Sea, and pi-oceeding northward to 71° 31', fotind
the thickness of the ice, which he measured by means of a
hole, to be about a foot, very rotten, and full of salt ; the
soundings twelve fathoms, with a bottom of soft green nuid.
The wind increasing- in violence, he heard the sound of tin'
KKTUUN' TO KOLYMSK.
•271
'liicli lii-
le sliort".
broki'ii,
nous scii
rjell liinl
a Diilt'.
it of til.'
; l)\it ill
liolo in
liicli cut
iibonr ot'
as mufli
nded Ins
elan'skni,
I him to
clvant'tMl.
gluttons,
two last
:sNislnir
o-oll, but
ivs' rest,
coi. Avitli
le Nortli.
sistod of
or til in y
ruin had
rei^'ioiis.
nd CV.pf
ho occa-
Bavaiidw
ross tilt'
ersts (»t'
doivd as
:* bordors
1', found
ans of a
salt; th.'
eu nind.
id of tilt'
^vator bonoath, and fidt tho iindulatoiy motion of Iho thin
crust of ice.
'Our position,' says the Ixdd oxjdorer, 'was at least an
anxious one ; tho more so as wo could take uo stop to avoid
tlio inipondint;- daui^'or. I bidiove low of our party slept,
rxcopt tho do<4's, who alono woro uuconscious of tho <;roat
probability of tho icc^ boiny' l)rokou uj) by the force of the
waves. Next day, the wind havini^ fallen, [ liad tw<) of the
best sledg'es emptied, and ]>laced in them provifeI(»ns lor
twenty-four hours, with the boat aud oars, souu^ poles and
boards, and proceeded northwards to examine the state of
the ice; directinj^- M. von Matiiischkin, in case of dauf;"er, to
retire with the whole party as far as might bo needfid,
\vitlK»ut awaiting my return. After drivin<jr through the
thick briue with uiuch difficvdty for seven versts, we canu' to
ii rnnnl)er of largo fissures, which wo passed with some
trouble by the aid of the boards which we had brought with
us. At last the tissures became so numerous and so wide,
that it was hard to say whether the sea beneath us was
really still covered by a connected coat of ice, or only l)y a
number of deta(died floating fragments, having everywhere
two or more feet of water between them. A single gust of
wind would have been sufheient to drive these fragments
M^ainst each other, and being already thoroughly saturated
with water, they would have sunk in a few minutes, leaving
nothing but sea on the spot Avhere we were standing. Tt
was manifestly useless to attempt going farther ; we hastened
to rejoin our com[>anions, and to seek with them a place of
<^reater seeurity. Our most northern latitude was 71° 43' at
II distance of 215 versts in a straight line from tlu^ lesser
Baranow rock.' After rejoining his companions, and wliile
still on the frozen sea, so thick a snow-storm came on, that
those in the hindmost sledge could not see the loading ones.
Unable either to pitch their tent or to light a fire, they were
exposed during tho night to the whole fury of the storm, with
:i temperature of + 7°, without tea or soup, and with nothing
to quench their thirst or satisfy their hunger but a few
niouthfuls of snow, a little r^e biscuit, and half spoilt fish.
On April 28, they arrived at Nishne Kolymsk, after an
absence of thirty-six days, during which they had travelh'd
272
THE rOI.AK WORLD.
above 800 miles witli the sauie (log's, men aiulaiiiinals liavinu"
eqnally suft'ered from eokl, lniu<^er, and futigne.
Neither diseomfoi't, however, nor danger preveute<l Wraiigell
from undertaking a tliird excursion in the following spring.
He ha<l great ditheulty in procuring the necessary dogs, a
disease which raged among them during the winter having
carried off more than four-fifths of these useful animals.
At length his wants were sup]died by the people of the
Indigirka, where the sickness had not extended, and on Marcli
14, 1.S22, he again set out for the borders of the Polar Sea.
Daring this expedition a large extent of coast was accurately
surveyed by Wrangell, who sent out his worthy assistant
Matiuschkin, with two companions, in an unloaded sledge,
to see if any fm-ther advance could bo made to the north.
Having accomplished ten versts, Matiuschkin was stopped by
the br(niking up of the ice. Enormous masses, raised by the
waves into an almost vertical position, were driven against
each otiier with a dreadful crash, and pressinl downwards by
the force of the billows to reappear again on tlie surfai-e
covered with the toru-up g-reen nnid which here forms the
bottom of th(^ sea. It Avould tire the reader were 1 to relate
all the miseries of their return voyage ; sulHce it to say, that
worn out with hunger and fatigue, they reacln.Ml Nishue
Ivolymsk on iNFay 5, after an absence »>f fifty-seven days.
Such sufferings tind perils might have excused, all furtlier
attiMupts to discover" the supposed land in the Polar Sea, but
nothing daunted l>y his rej)eated failures, Wrangell deter-
mined on a fourth expedition in 182:5, on which he resohed
to stari from a more easterly point. On reaching the coa^t.
tlie obstacles were found still gri'ater than on his previous
visits t(» that fearful sea. The weatlu'r was tempestuou.--,
the ice thin ami broken. Ft was neci'ssary at times to cros-;
wide laiK.'s of water on i)ieces of ice ; at times tlie tiiin ire
bent beneath the weiu'ht of the sled
"•es, w
,-hicl
i were then
saved oidy l>y the sagacity of the dogs, who, aware of the
danger, ran at their greatest speed till tliey found a soliil
footing. At length, about sixty miles from shore, they
arrived at tlu' vil'^e of an inunense break in the ice, extend-
ing east ami west further than the eye could reach.
'W(> elindied on(^ ol' the loftiest humino(dcs.*' savs Wrangell.
mm
' wlu'iioo we obtiiinod an oxteii-sivo view towiinls the north,
iiml wlieiiee wo beheld tlie wideoeean spread before our ^'aze.
It was a fearful and niat^-niHeent, but to us a nielaneh(»ly
spcciaele ! Fraj^'iiKMits of iee of enormous size Hoated on the
surtiK'O of the water, and W(»re tlirown by the waves with
awful violence a^'ainst the edj^'e of the iee-lield (»n the further
si<li' of the channel before us. The collisions were so tre-
iiK'udous, that larj^'e masses were every instant broken away,
iiiid it was evident that the portion of ice which still divided
till' channel from the open ocean, would so<»n be completely
i|t'^;tro3'ed. Had wo attempted to ferry ourselves across upon
I'lif of the floating" pieces of ice, we should not have found
lirm footini*' upon our arrival. Even on our own side fresh
lints of water were continually formin;^', and extending- in
ivrrv direction in the field of ice behind us. AVe could <>'o
iKt further. With a painful feeling" of the impossibility (»f
ovrrconiing- the obstacles which nature opposed to us, our last
liiipt vanished of discovering the land, which we yet believed
t<i exist. We saw oursidves compelled torenounce the object
till' which we had striven through three years of hardships,
tniK and danger. We had done what honour and duty
(li'iiianded ; further attempts woidd have been absolutely
liMpclt'ss, and I decided to return.'
Thty turned, but already the track of their advance Avas
^rai'cely discernible, as uew lanes of water had been formed,
aii<l fivsh hummocks raised by the sea. To add to their
ilistress, a storm arose, which threatened every moment to
>w;illitw u^) the ice island, on which they h(tj»ed to cross a
wi'le s[iace of water which separated them tVom a lirmer
UTtilUl.l.
* We had been tliree long" hours in this position, ami still
till' mass of ice beneath us h(>ld together.^ when suddenly it
was caught by the st<»rm, and hurled against a large Held of
i'f : the crash Avas terrific, and the mass beneath us was
>iiattered into fragments. At that dreadful ninuieni, when
'>i;ipe seemed impossible, the impulse of self-}»reservation,
.'lauted in every living- being, saved us. Instinctively wo
ill sprang at once on the sledg(,'S, and tu'ged the dogs t<» their
lull sjiced. They Hew across the yielding fragments to the
'i'ld on which we had been stranded, and safely reaclie(l a
T
111
274
tin: POLAii wniuj).
h
part of it of firinov elmracter, oinvhioh were several Inmiiuoc-ks.
where the do^-s iuuiie<liiite]y ceased running, eoiiseiuiis, aji-
pareiitly, that tlie daii^^'er was past. We were saved! ^,\i^
jt>yt'ull\' (nnhraeed eaeli other, and uiiiled in thaid<s to (iml
ibr our preservation from suih imminent peril.'
But their misfortunes did not end here ; they were out nil
from the deposit of their provisions; they were oOO veisis
from their nearest ma^'azines, and the food for the doj^'s was
now barely sufficient for three days. Their joy may be inia-
o;ined when, after a few versts' travelling, they fell in with
Matiusehkin and his party, brin<^'in^- with them an abundant
supply of provisions of all kinds.
To leave nothing undone which could possibly be effect nl.
Wrangell advanced to the eastward along the coast, past (^qic
North, seen in Cook's last voyage, and proceeded as far as
Koliutsehin Island, where he fmmd some Tchuktchi, wIki
ha<l come over from Behring's Straits to trade.
With this journey terminated Wrangtll's labours on the
coasts, or on the surface of the Polar Sea, and, at the begin-
ning of the following winter, Ave find him taking a tiiial
leave of Nishne Kolymsk. On January 10, 1S2 !■, he arrived
at Jakutsk, and a few months later at Petersl)urg. If \vi'
consider the difficulties he had to encounter, and his luitiriiiii'
zeal and courage, in the midst of privations and dangers,
it is only fair to admit that his name deserves to l)e rankeil
among the most distingnished exj)lorei's of the Arctic world.
'1 lic BUtcK (.li.iikuiot.
.;; ■^;^!si*,.
Uchutsk.
(MIAPTEK XXI.
THE TUNGUSI.
Tlirir l\ilatioii.slii|i ti> tlir M;iiuUcliu - I)ri;iilt'iil (,'iinilitii)ii dt ihr <»l|ll•.l•^I Noin.ni-
Cliiirai'toi' of till' Tuiiji;usi 'I'licir Omfit tor iIk' ("lia-c iHar-liuntiiii:'
I'ui'lliii^'s - Diet A Ni^dit's Halt willi 'riiii^iisi in tlic l'"()i'fst -Oclmtsk.
rpilOUGH both bt'louj^iiig' to the same stock, the fate of the
L Tuiio'iisi and Mandsehii has been very (lift'ereut ; for at
the same time when the latter eonqui'red the vast C*liinese
iMii[iire, the former, after havini:^ spread over the f^Teati'sl
{i;irt of East Siberia, and driven before them the Jakiifs, flic
Jiikahiri, the Tehuktchi, and many otlier aboriginal tribes,
were in their tnrn subjnLiated l)y the mi;;litier linssians. In
tl'.e year lOJO the Cossacks tii'st enconntered the Tnnt,'usi,
and in lOti the lirst Mandschn emjx'ror mounted the
rldnese throne. The same race which liere imposes its voice
u])on nullions of sn1)jects, there falls apreyto a small number
(if adventurers. However strang-e the fact, it is, liowever,
easily e.\[>lained, for the Chinese were worse armed and less
•lisciplincd than the Mandschn, while tlie Tun^-usi had nothing-
270
Till-: I'OLAK WOUI.I).
but bows auj arrows to opi»osetothe Cossack firo-arnis ; ami
history (from Alexander the Great to Sadowa) teaches us thai
victory eonstautly sith'S with the best weapons.
In their intellectual development we find the same difl'ei--
ence as in their fortunes between the Mandschu and the
Siberian Tunyusi. Two hundred and fifty years a<;o the
former were still nomads, like their northern kinsfolk, and
could neither read nor write, and already they have a rich
literature, and their lan;mua«j;-e is spoken at the court <if'
Poking- ; while the Tunyusi, oppressed and sunk in poverty,
are still as igncn-ant as Avhen they fii'st encountered the
Cossacks.
According' to their occupations, and the various domestic
animals employed by them, they are disting-uislved by tlie
names of Reindeer, Horse, Dog-, Forest, and River Tnngusi ;
but although they are found from the basins of the Upper,
Middle, and Lower Tunguska, to the western shores of tlu;
Sea of Ochotsk, and from the Chinese frontiers and the
Baikal to the Polar Ocean, their whole nundjer does not
amount to more than '"JOjOUO, and diminishes from year to
year, in consequence of the ravages of the small-pox and
other epidemic disorders transmitted to them by the Rus-
sians. Only a few rear horses and cattle, the reindeer beiiiii'
generally their domestic animal ; and the impoverished
Tunguse, who has been deprived of his herd by some C( n-
tagious disorder, or tlie ravages of the wolves, lives as a
fisherman on the borders of a rivi'r, assisted by his dog, or
retires into the forests as a promyschlenik or hunter. Of the
miseries which here await him, Wrangell relates a midancliolv
instance. In a solitary hut in one of the dreariest wilder-
nesses imaginable, he found a Tunguse and his daughter.
While the father, with his long snow-shoes, was pursuing a
reindeer for several days together, this inifortuiuite girl re-
mained alone and helpless in the hut, which even in summoi'
afforded but an imperfect shelter against the rain and wind,
exposed to the cold, and frequently to hunger, and without
the least occupation. No wonder that the impoverished
Tungusi not seldom sink into cannil)alism. Neither the
reindeer nor the d<»gs, nor the wives and children cd' their more
Trn:: 'itntu'sr ciiARArTKR.
'277
I'.irtunato oouiitrvincn, aiv sociin' l'n»m the uttacks iiiul
voracity of those outcasts, who, in their turn, are treated
like Avikl beasts, and destroyed wit hold nu'rrv. A bartering;'
trade is, however, carrietl on with them, bnt oidy at a distance,
and by si^^Tis ; each party depositin*^' its yoods, and Ibllowiny
every motion of t lie other with a suspicious eye.
The Russian Government, anxious to relieve the misery of
flie impoverished nomads, has t>-iven orders to settle them
alont^ the river-banks, and to provide them with the ne-
fcssary fishin<4- implements ; but only extreme wretchedn«'ss
can induce the Tun<^-use to relinquish the fre<' life of the;
lurest. His candess teni[»er, his ready wit, and sprii^htly
Manner, distin;jfuish him from the other Siberian tribes— the
L^liiomy Samojede, the uncouth Ostjak, the reserved Jakut —
liiit he is said to be full of deceit and malice. His vanity
shows itself in the (juantity (»f u-luss beads with which he
(jccorates his dress of reindeer leather, from his small Tartar
ca]) to the tips of his shoes. When chasinj^' or travelling- ou
liis reindeer throug'h the woods, he of course lays aside most
(if his tinery, and puts on lar^-e water-tif,dit l)Oots or sari,
well >i;Teased with fat, to kec]) otf the wet of the morass. His
liuntiny apparatus is extremely simi>le. A small axe, a
krttle, a leathern ba^j;' containing" sonu> dried tish, a doy, a
short g'un, or merely a bow and a sHul;-, is all he requires for
his expeditions into the forest. With the assistance of his
loHu;- and narrow snow-shoes, he flies (»ver the dazzling- plain,
and protects his eyes, like the Jakut, with a net made of
hlack horsG-hair. He never hesitates to attack the bear
sni^^le handed, and generally masters him. The nomad
Tiuiguse naturally reipiires a movable dwelling. His tent
is covered with leather, or large pieces of ])liable bark, whiih
are easily r( died up and trans})orted from place to place. The
jurt of the sedentary Tunguse n'seml>les that of the Jakut,
ami is so small, that it can be very quickly and tlioroughly
warmed by a fire kindled on the stone hearth in the centre.
Ill his food the Tunu-use is bv no means daintv. Om; of
Ills favourite dishes consists of the contents of a reiixh'er's
stomach mixed with wild berries, and spread out in thin
i-aKcs
on tl
le run
1 oft
rees
jo be dricl ill the air or in the sui
•27«
TIIK POT.AU WOULD.
Tlioso wlio liavo scltlcd on iho Wilnj iin<l in ilio noi<>-libour-
hood of Nortscliinsk, likcnviso consnnio lavfj^c qnantitit's ot
brick tea, Avliieh tlioy boil with fat and berries into a thick
porrid<^e, and this nnwholesome food adds no doubt to tbc
yeUowness of their complexion.
But few of the Tungusi have been converted to Christi-
anity, the majin-ity beino; still addicted to Shamanism,
They do not like to bury tlieir dead, but place theui, in their
holiday dresses, in lar^^e chests, which tlu^y han<^' up between
two trees. The luintino- apparatus of the deceased is buried
beneath the chest. No ceremonies are used on the occasion,
except when a Schaman happens to be in thenei<^hbourho()(l,
when a reindeer is sacrificed, on Avliose flesh the sorcerer and
the relations regale themselves, while the spirits to Avhoni
the animal is supposed to be offered are obliged to content
themselves with the smell of the burnt fat. As amontr tlie
Samojedes or the Ostjaks, woman is a marketable ware amonn-
the Tungusi. The father gives his daughter in marriage for
twenty or a hundred reindeer, or the bridegroom is obliged
to earn her luind by ii long period of service.
In East Siberia, the Tungusi divide with the Jiikuts tlir
task of conveying goods or travellers through the forests, and
afford the stranger frequent opportunities for admii'ing tliejr
agility and good humour. On halting after a day's journey,
the reindeer are unpacked in an instant, the saddles and tlio
goods ranged orderly on the ground, and the bridles collected
and hung on branches of trees. The hungr}^ animals soon
disappear in the thicket, where they are left to provide for
themselves. The men, who meanwhile have been busv with
their axes, drag a larch tree or two to the place of encanqi-
ment. The smaller branches are lopped off and collected to
servo as beds or seats upon the snow, while the resinous
wood of the hirger trunks is soon kindled into a lively tire.
The kettle, filled with snow, is suspended from a stron<4'
forked branch placed obliquely in the ground over the fire,
and in a few minntes the tea is read}- — for the Tungusi ]n-o-
ceed every evening according to the same method, and arc
consequently as expert as long and invariable practice c:iu
n;ako them. Comfortably seated on his reindeer saddle, tlio
POSITION' OF OCIIOTSK.
2V0
Inivollor niiiy now iUiDisc himselt' with the ilancos, which tho
'I'lm^'iisi iU'coinpany with iin agTooiiblo son|,', or if ho choose
to witness thoir a<:;ilitv in athletic exercises, it only costs him
;i word of encouragement, and a small donation of brandy.
Two of the Tnnii'usi hold it ro|K', and swino- it with all their
iiii^ht, so that it does not touch the f,n'ound. Meanwhile a
tliii'd Tun;;use skips over the rope, picks np iibow and arrow,
>|i;iiis the bow and shoots tlie arrow, without once t(mchin<4'
the roi)e. Some particularly bold and expert Tun^-usi will
tl,iii(.'e over a sword which a person, lyin^ on his back on the
ui'i Muid, is swin»4'ino- about with the <^reatest rapidity. Should
our traveller be a friend of chess, tho Tunj^usi are equally at
li;s service, as they are passionately fond of this m)blest of
:;iiiiies, especially in the Kolymsk district. Like all other
Silicrian nomads, they visit at least once a year tho various
t'lii.s which are held in the small towns scattered here and
tlirre over their immense territory— such as Kirensk, Olek-
miiisk, Bar^usin, Tschita, ami Ochotsk, which, before the
nj)riiiii«j;" of the Anujr to trade, was the chief port of East
Sihcria. Ocluttsk is one of the dreariest places imaginable ;
at least no traveller who ever visited it has a word to say in
its favour. Not a sinyfle tree orows for miles and miles around,
ami the wretched huts of which the town is composed, lie
ill the midst of a swamp, which in summer is a fruitful
soiivfc of malaria and pestilence. The river Ochota, at whose
iiioiilh Ochutsk is situated, does not break up befoi'o the end
tif May, and the ice masses continue to pass the town till the
loth <\Y 20th of June. Soon after begins the mc>st unpleasant
tiiiii" of all the year, or ' buss ' of the Siberians, characterised
h.v thick fog and a perpetually drizzling rain. The weather
clears up in July, but as early as August the night frosts
enver the earth with rime. Salmon, of which no less than
roiutecn different species live in the sea of Ochotsk, are the
only food which the neighbourhood aifords ; all other nec(^s-
>aries of life come from Jakutsk, and are of course enormoiisly
ih'ar. ISTeat appears only from time to time on the tables of
'he wealthier merchants, and bread is au article of luxury.
Xo wonder that the scurvy ravages every winter a place so
ill-[»r(»visioned, and that at the time wdien the first caravan of
•J 8 1)
TIIK rOI.AK WOKIJ).
packliorsos is expected to cross tlie Aldaii Mouiitiiiiis, Ihr
jieople of* Ocliotsk, unable to resti'iiiii their iiii]>utieiice, i^u
<»iit a Ioii;4' y\iiy to meet it. As the loriiier trade of the [diicr
lias MOW no doul)t been trajisferred to the settlements on
the vXmur, it may well be snppos<'d that Oehotsk has lost
most of its lornier inhabitants, who can only bo conyratulatt-d
on their cluinu'o of residence.
LLC s'co'xr. or
B^ack Diver
The Aleutian Jalai.ila.
Cliiiii an tiibiuiil''>('--H-li by !• 1 1 d-j . ic k WliyiujurJ
CHAPTER XXII.
GEORGE AVILLIAM STELLER.
llwHulli Enters tlu' Jviis>i;ui St I'vict: Scicnlitii' Juiirnoy to K;iintM'lirilka Ac-
cuMijiaiiics Ui'liriiig on liis secoiul Voyiigu of l>i.'<eovcry — Laiul.s mi llii l>lariil
"f Kiiiuk— Sliamoful Conduct of Jn'lu'infi Slii^jwrrck on IJiliiin^ I-laml
llilii'iiitr'>* Di'atli — Return to Kanitsi'lia'ka — lioss of Property — I'erscciitionft of
the Silicriaii Aulhorilies — I'rozrn l<i ilratli at TjuHien.
/M^OKGE WILLIAM STELLKK, cue of the iiu.st dis-
V' tiii;j;'uisliotl luitumlists <»t' the past eeiiturv, was born at
NVinsheini, a small town in Fraiicoiiia iii the year 17<>'.'
At'lrr completing' liis studies at the universities of "W'itten-
hero-und llalle, I'O turned his thonuhts to Russia, Avhicli, since
the reforms of Czar Peter the Croat, and the [»rotection
which that monarch and his successors atlor<h'd t<-» Cerniaii
Icannn^', liad Ix'come ilie land of promise for all adventurous
'^I'irits.
llavinn" been a[»pointed surgeon in the Russian army, which
;it that iimo was besieging Danzig, lie went with a trans-
port of wounded soldiers, after the surrender of that town, to
'28-2
Till: POLAR WoKLh.
►St. P«»t<'rsl>iir*y, wlioro he iirrivt'd ill I7"tl. Ilcrt' liis talrnts
were soon ii|»i)iH'('iiitoil ; iiffor a low years he was iianicd a
iM('ml)i;r of tlit' hniM'i'ial Acadoiuy of Sciciiccs, aii<l snit l>v
(lovcriiniciit, ill 1 7:]8, to cxamiiK! tli«' iiatunil i»nj(lucti(»iis d
Kaiiitsoliatka.
The ability and zeal with which he fullillcil this missii>ii
is proved by the valuable collections which he sent to tlic
Academy, and by his iiuinerous memoirs, which are still rca«l
with interest in the present day.
Til 1711 ho accompanied liehrin^' on his secoml voya^^e nt'
discovery, the object of which was to determine (he distance
of America from Kamtschatlca, ami to ascertain tlu> separation
or the junction of both continents in a higher hit il nth' — a
qu(>stioii which his first voyajjfe had left uiuh'cided. Notliiiiu
could be more agreeable to a man like Steller, than llic
l>rospects held out to him by an expedition to unknown
rejjfions ; and we can easily iina«j;'int» the delight with whiih tin-
naturalist embarked on board of the ' Saint Peter,' com-
manded by JJehrino; in i)erson. Accompanied by the ' Saint
Paul,' under Tschiriyow, they sailed on June •!• from the
bay of Awatscha.
The expedition had cost ten years of preparation, aixl
brou<j;'ht misery and ruin upon many of the wild Sibciian
tribes, for all that was necessary for the outfit had to Itc
conveyed by compuls(n'y labour from the interior of the con-
tinent over mountains and rivers, throuj^'h dense forests and
pathless wilds, and it seemed from the very bej^'inninj^" of tlic
voyao'o as if the curses of the unfortunate natives clunn' to it.
Much valuable time had been lost, for the ships oui;lit \<<
have sailed at least a month earlier, and Behrin<jf, who from
illness constantly kept to his cabin, was by no means a lit
commander for a scientific expedition.
After a few days a dense fof,' separated the vessels, wlii'li
wore never to meet ag-ain ; and as the ' St. Peter ' held licr
course too much to the south, the Aleutic chain remained
undiscovered, and tlio first land was oiilv siii'hted after four
weeks in the neighbourhood of Boh ring's Bay. During the
whole of this passage Stoller had to endure all tiio vexations
which arrogant stupidity coidd inflict upon a man anxious
to do his duty. Ft was in vain that he repeatedly pointed out
.STKIiLKll AT KAIAK.
wr?
tin' sii,Mis wliicli iiMliciilcd \hv jtrcsciicc dl' liiiitl iml I'm- to tli«'
iP'itli, ill Viiiii tli;il lie ciitrciitcd tlic ('oniinaiMlfr to stn-r Init
oiH' (liiv ill tliiit direct ioii. At liist, oii .Iiilv l'>, tin- liiL;li
iiiKiiiitiiiiiH of AiMcricii wci'f st'cii to risi' ubovo tlio hori/oii,
;iinl till' vessel ant'hoivd oii the I'.Mli iMiir to tlie siiiiill isliiiid
III' K'iiiiik.
(Ml tlic I'ollowijiy dii y !i l)oiit was sent out to I't'tclj some
iVoJi water, but it was with the utmost ditliculty that Steller
ci.iild ohtaiii peniiissioii to join the party. All assistaiiei!
w.is ohstiuately denied him, and aeeouipaiiied hy his only
siTMiiit, a Cossaclv, he lauded on the iiiikiiowii shoi'e, ea^^er to
iiiiike the most «»t' the short time allotted him tor his re-
>iir(lies. He imuiediately directed his steps towards the
interior, and had scarcely walked a mile when he discovered
the hollowed trunk (^>t' a tree, in which, a lew h«»urs before, the
sii\a^es luul boiled their meat with red h()t stones. He also
t'.iuiiil several ]>ots tilled with i'scnlent herbs, and a wooden
instrument for making- tire, like those which are used by the
inhabitants of Kamtschatka. Hence he conjectnred that the
ahuri^ines f>f this part of the Anu'rican coast must bi> of tlu»
s;iine origin as the Kamtschatkans, and that l>(»th c(»untries
must necessarily approach cacli other towards th<.! north, as
their inhabitants c(»nld not possibly traverse such vast extents
iit'iui'un in their rndely-coiistructed boats.
Pursuing* his way, Stoller now came to a path which h'd into
a (h'lise and shady forest. Before enterinjj,', lu' strictly for-
I'lnle his Cossack to act without commands, in cas<> of a hostile
iiicouiitei. The Cossack had a^'un with a knife aiid hatch( t ;
Stiller himself only a Jakut poniard, which he had taken
with him to dii>' out plants or stones.
After half an hour's walkin;4' they came to a place strewn
with L;niss. This was immediately renioxed, and a nutf oi-
I'iatl'unn discovered, coiisistin<j;' of strips of l)ai'k laid upon
pi'hs Mild covercMl with stones. This platform o])ened into a
'•I'liiir containinjj;; a larij'e qnantity of smoked lishes, and a
ti'w Inindles of the inner bark of the larch or fir tree, which,
in rase of necessity, serves as food throii^'hoiit all Liberia.
Th'M'e were also some arrows, dyed black and smoothed, of a
si/e far ,sn})in'ior to those used in Kamtschatka.
After 8teller, in spite of the danger of bein|4' surprised by
•284
TIIK I'OLAU WOHLl).
tli(' saviifjos, liiid iiecnriitely exnuiiiied the eoiitonts of tlif
collar, lie sent his Cossack back a^-ain to the place mIutc tin-
boatmen were waterinj^'. He y'ave him specimens of lli,-
various articles Avhich he had fouiul, ordering- him to takf
them to Captain Behrin;^, and to reciucst that two or thi't'c
men mi^-ht be sent to him for iurther assistance. In the
meantime, thonyh quite alone, he continued his investiga-
tions of the stranj^e land, and havinjjj reached the summit oi'
a hill, he saw smoke risin^- from a forest at some distance.
Overjoyed at the si<^'ht, for he now could hope to meet witli
the natives and to con\;'lete his knowledj^e of the island, he
instantly returned to tlie landin;;'-place, with all the eager-
ness of a man who has somethino- important to communicate ;
and as the boat Avas just about to leave, told the sailors in
inform the captain of his discovery, and to be<>- that the small
pinnace, Avith a detachment of armed men, mi^-lit be sent out
to him.
MeanAvhile, exhausted AA'ith fatig'ue, ho sat doAvn on the
beach, Avhere he described in his pocket-book some r>f the
more delicate plants he had c(^)]lectod, Avhich he feared mi^lit
speedily Avither, and reg'aled himself Avith the oxcelleut
Avater.
After Avaiting' for about an hour, he at leng'tli received an
answer from Bohring*, tellin<4- him to return immediately en
board, unless ho chose to be left behind; and Ave can easily
imao-ine the indi^-nation of the disaj)[»ointed naturalist at
this shameful command.
On the morniny of July 21, Behrhig', contrary to his
custom, appeared on dock, ordered the anchors to be Avei^lie<l,
and o-ave directions to sail back a<>ain on the same course.
The continent he liaddiscoA'oredAvas not even honoured Avitli
a sint^le visit, so that Stellor c(»uld not help tolliuLT the
Russians they had merely come thus far for the purpose et
carryin<;- American Avater to Asia.
Any conscientious commander Avould have continued to sail
ah my the unknoAvn shore, or, consideriii«^- that the season was
already far advanced, woidd have determined to Avinter tlieiv.
and to pursue his discoveries next sprin;4' ; l)V)t, unfortunately
for J^'hi-in;j: and his compani(»ns, the course he adopted jhhm'^I
as disastrous as it was dishonourable.
DAD (■oNDlCT i)V DKIIIUNC
283
Tliivc iiionlhs luiiv? the ship was tossed about by contrary
uiiids and storms; the islands of the Ak'utic ehaiii, though
tivijucntly seen throng-h the mists, were bnt seKh»m visiti'd ;
the scurvy broke out amon<^'st the dispirited, ill-ted cri'w,
tlii'ir misery increased from day to day, and their joy may be
iiii;iL;'iiied when at leiiy'th, on Xovember T), ii land was seen
wliieli they lirndy believed to be Kamtsehatlca — thon^'-h in
ivaiity it was merely the desert Behriuo-'s Island, situated a
liuiulred miles from that peninsula. Even tlios<' Avho were
nearly half-dead crept upon deck to en joy the welcome sig'ht;
t'Vi'iy one thanked Clod, and the ig-nta'ant oflicer, convinced
lli;it they were at the entrance of the bay of Awatscha, even
iKiined the several mountains, but their mistake soon became
apjiarent when, on rou]uliu<>; a small promontory, some
well-known islets were missed. As they had no doubt,
liowcver, that the land was really Kamtschatka, and the
liad weather and the small number of bunds fit to do duly
ix'iiderin<4' it difticult to reach the gulf of Awatscha, it Avas
i'esi)lveil to rrni into the bay that lay bof<n'e them, and to
send notice from thence to Nishne Kamtschatsk of their safe
arrival.
Steller was among the first to land, and probably the ver}'
tirst of the party who discovered the mistakt; of the iwrrljciit
navigators to wIkhu the expedition h.id been entrusted.
Sea-otters came swimming to him from the land, and he well
blew that tht^se much persecuted animals had long sine*'
'li>a[>[>eared from the coast of Kamtschatka. The number of
Antic foxes, too, who showed no fear at his approacli, and the
sea-cows gambolling in the water, Avere sure siji'us that the
t'liut lit' man had not often trodden this shore.
Stcller was also the tirst to set tin; good exani[)le of making
llie I.est of a bad situation, instead of ustdesslv l)ewailing liis
misfortunes. He began to erect a hut for the fidlowinji*
winter, and formed an association with several of the crew,
wliu. whatever might await them, piromised to stand by eacdi
ether.
During the i\dlowing days the sick were gradually conveyed
en shore. Some of them died on board as soon as they were
lirmiMht into the open aii', others in the boat, others as sor»n
■i> they were lauded. ' On all sides,' says Steller, in his
28fi
TTTR POLATl WOULD.
iiitorostin^ account of this Hl-fiitcMl voyii^v,''^' 'nothing' wns
to bo seen but misery. Before the dead could be buried,
they were mangled by the foxes, who even ventured tn
approach the helpless invalids who were lyin^ without covti'
on the beach. Some of th(>so wretched sufferers bitt('rl\
complained of the cold, others of hunger and thii'st— lur
many had their gums so swollen and ulcerated with llic
scurvy as to be unable to eat.'
'On Novendier 1.'},' continues the naturalist, '1 went out
hunting for the first time with Messieurs Plenisner and BelL;v ;
wo killed four sea-otters, and did not return before niglit.
We ate their flesh thankfully, and prayed to CJod that lie
might continue to provide us with this excellent food. The
costly skins, on the other hand, were of no value in our eyes -.
the only objects which we now esteemed were knives, needles,
thread, ropes, &c., on which before we had not bestowed a
thought. We all saw that rank, science, and other social
distinctions were now of no avail, and could not in any way
contribute to our preservation: we therefore resolved, befnif
we were forced to do so by necessity, to set to work at once.
We introduced among us five a community of goods, and
regulated our housekeeping in sueh a manner, as not to he
in want before the winter Avas over. Our three Cossacks
were obliged to obey our orders, when we had decided upon
something in common ; but we began to treat them with
greater politeness, calling them by their names and surnaiuos.
and we soon found that Peter Maximo witsch served us with
more alacrity than formerly Petrucha (a diminutive ot
Peter).
' Nov. li. The whole ship's company was formed into tliive
parties. The one had to convey the sick and provisions IVom
the ship ; the second brought w^ood ; the third, consisting;
of a lame sailor and myself, remained at home — the foniiei'
busy making a sledge, wdiile I acted as cook. As our party
was the first to organise a household, I also performed tlie
duty of bringing warm soup to some of our sick, imtil liny
had so far recovered as to be able to lu?lp themselves.
'The barracks being this day ready to receive the sick,
* Bosehreibiiiisi 'lir SiciviM von li.iuiit.st.'liatkii imoli Aiuorika. Frankl'iirl,
DKATll or Iir,IIUIX(i.
•JS7
iiiiiiiy of tlicm wore trausporit'd iiiidor roof; but lor want of
rudiii, tlit'v lay fwrysvlion' on tlu' !4T()Hii(1, covoivd with ra<j,s
;iii(l elotlu'S. No one eoiiUl assist the <jthor, aiul nothing'
wiis hoard but laniontations and curses — the whole a^tordin^•
so wretched a siyht, as to nialce even th»> stoutest heart lose
idurag'e.
' On November 15 all the sick Avere at length landed. We
Iduk one of them, named Boris Siind, into our hut, and by
(iod's help he recovered within three months.
' The follow'in*^- d:iys added to our misery, as the messen^vrs
we had sent out brought us the intelliy-ence that we were
on a desert island, without any coinnmnication Avith Kamts-
cluiika. We were also in constant fear that the stormy
weather mij^-ht drive our ship out to sea, and along with it
all our provisions, and every hope of ever returning to our
lioiues. Sometimes it w^as impossible to get to the vessel for
several days together, so boisterous was the surge ; and aboiit
tell or twelve men, who had hitherto been abl<,' to work, now
also fell ill. Want, nakedness, frost, rain, illness, imjtatienee,
and despair, were our daily companions.'
Fortunately the stormy sea drove the ship npon the strand,
better than it could probably have been done by liinnan
elferts.
Successively man}- of the scorbutic i)atients died, and t>n
December 8, the unfortunate commander of the expedition
paid his debt to nature.
Titus Behring, by birth a Dane, had served thirty-six years
with distinction in the Russian navy, l»ut age and infiinnities
had completely damped his energies, and his death is a
warning to all who enter ujxtn un<h'rtakings above their
strength.
la the meantime the whole ship's cf)mpany had established
itself for the winter in tive subterranean dwellings ; the
general health was visibly improving, merely by means of the
excellent water, and by the fresh meat furnished by sea-
otters, seals, and manatees; and the only care now was to
uaiii sufficient strength to be able to undertaki^ the work of
deliverance in spring.
In April the shipwrecked nuiriners began to build a
Hiiallcr shii> out of the tindiers of the ' St. Peter,' and such
288
Tllli: rOLAR WOKLP.
was the iilacrity with wliieh till luiiids set to work, that on
Au^'ust ]:» tlu'j were iible to set out.
' When we were all einbarketl,' says Steller, ' Ave first per-
ceived how much we shoiikl he inconvenienced for want of
room ; the water-casks, jn'ovisions, andba^^'ya^^o tiiking- up so
much space, that our forty-two men (the three ship's olHccrs
and myself were somewhat better off in the cabin) could
hardly creep between them and the deck. A <»'reat quantity
of the beddini^ and clothing had to be thrown overboard.
Meanwhile we saw the foxes sporting about our deserted
huts, and greedily devouring remnants <-»f fat and meat.
' On the 1 1th, in the morning, we Aveighed anchor, and
steered out of the bay. The weather being beautiful, and
the wind favourable, Ave Avere all in good spirits, and as av(,'
sailed along the island, pointed out to each other the Avell-
knoAvn mountains and valleys Avhich AA'e had frequently visited
in quest of game, or for the purpose of reconnoitring. To-
AVJirds evening Ave Avere opposite the furthest point of tbt;
island, and on the loth, the Avind continuing favourable, we
steered direct towards the bay of AAvatscha. About mid-
night, however, Ave perceived, to our great dismay, that the
vessel began to fill Avith Avater from an unknown leak, vvhicli,
in consequence of the croAA'^ded and overloaded state of tlio
vessel, it Avas extremely difficult to find out. The pumps
Avere soon choked by the shavings left in the hold, and the
danger rapidly increased, as the Avind Avas strong and the
Avssel badly built. The sails Avero immediately taken in :
some of the men removed the baggage to look for the leak,
others kei)t continually pouring out the Avater Avith kettles,
Avhile others again cast all superfluous articles overboard.
At length, after the ligh .'ning of the ship, the carpenter
succeeded in stopping the lealc, and thus Ave Avere once more
saA'ed from imminent danger. . . . On the 17th Ave sighted
Kanitschatka, but as the Avind Avas contrary, Ave did not
enter the harbour before the CA^ening of the 27th.
' In spite of the joy we all felt at our deliverance, yet the
neAvs we heard on our arrival awakened in us a host of con-
flicting emotions. We had been given up for lost, and all
our property had passed into other hands, and been mostly
carried away beyond hope of recovory. Hence joy and sorrow
■i ii
1i,i.-tki:atmi;.\t .\m> i>i;.\tii or sii;i,i,i;i;.
•2t,\)
LUat oil
rst por-
*vaiit <tt'
[O- up SO
oiiit'i'is
[) could
[uaiitily
n'boiird.
lesortfd
at.
liov, aiitl
ifnl, J! nil
(1 as avl'
he "svt'll-
,y visited
lo'. Tu-
t of tlu;
i-able, \ve
mt inid-
tliat the
c, wliieli,
e of tlie
e pumps
and ilu'
tnid till'
ikeu ill :
he leak,
Icettl.'s,
erhoai'il.
arpeuier
lee uiori'
sio-htcd
did i»t»t
I, yet the
of eoii-
y and all
1 mostly
IdsorroNV
iiltcrnated "wilhin a irw iiK.inienls in our nun<ls, th(»uti'li we
\\i!'i' all so arc!istoiii"d to privation and luisfry. as hardly to
li I'l llic extent ofoiir losses."
Ill the year 1 71' I- Sttdler was ordcri'd to return io St. Pelers-
liiu'u': hilt his eandour had inadi' liim [)owerful enemies.
ilaviii;^- reaelied NoVL;'oro(l, and rejoiciii'_;- in the idea of
eiiee more un.xinu' wi
th tl
le civiJiseil wor
l.L ]
le was suddeiilv
ordfved to a}ij)ear before the imperial court of justice at
h'lciiislc, on the charn'c <d* havinn' treaeht'rously sold powder
til tilt' enemies of llussia. Thus ohlij^-ed t(.» return once more
into the depths of Siberia, he was at k'nyth diMuissed bv his
jiidLics, after waitiu;^' a, "wliole year for their verdict.
(Mice more on his way to St. IVtershurL!,', he liad already
ivached ]Moscow. Avlien lit" was a^aiii summoned to ap[iear
uiijioi
it (h'lav before the court of Irkutsk. A journev to
>!lieria is, iui(h,'r ail circumsrances, an arduous uiuhn'takino'
n '
wli
;it. then, must have l)eeu Steller's teelin^-s wlu'U, instead
iif ciijoyiiiL;" the repose he had so well merited, he saw himself
"lili^ed to retrace his steps for the fourth time, for the ]»ur-
]>"»' of vindicating' his conduct before a rascally tribunals
till ii vei-y cold day, his Cossack ^^anirds stopped to refresh
i!ii'iiisejves with somebi-aiidv at an inn bv the road-side, and
■r. who remained in the sled^'e waitin*'' for their reti
u*n.
a^lc(
■}), and was frozen to death.
lllte
tllll,-
lie lies buried near the town of Tjumen. and no monument
I'vises the naturalist, whom the love of knowled<''e mav Ifad
the Siberian wild.->, that his unfortunate predecessor Avas
I'asely i'(Hjuited sifter years of exertion in the interests
f >i-ieiice
"i I I' SLvciy fox.
I'ctropaulowsk.
(From nn ori^in:i', sketcli hy Frrdt;rick ■Wli-ympei )
II
I
I :
If >i
CHAPTER XXI rr.
KAMTSCHATKA.
Climato — Fin-tility— Luxuriant Vop;ctiition — Fisli — Sr.a Birds — Kiimtsclinikan
nirdciiti'licrs— Tho 15ny of Awatsclia— rctropaulowsk — Tlio Kanitsrhalkaiis
TluMr physical and mural Qualitii-s — Tlie I'Vitillaria Sarranu — The ^Iiuliann r—
]>('ars — J)o^s.
rnHE poninsulii of Ktiintschatka tlioug-h ninnberiii<^' no indii'
T
than G,C)00 or 7,000 inhabitants, on a surface oquiillini
Great Britain in extent, has so many natural resources tluit
it could easily maintain a far greater number. The climate is
much more temperate and unifonn than that of the intcrii'i'
of Siberia, being neither so excessively cold in Avinter, nor .*'^
intensely hot in summer; and though the late and early niu'l'^
frosts, with the frequent fogs and rains, prevent the cultiviitinii
of corn, the humid air produces a very hixuriant herbaeotnb
vegetation. Not only along the banks of the rivers and hikes.
but in the forest glades, the grass grows to a height of luoiv
than twelve feet, and numy of the Compositas and Umbclli-
ferfc attain a si/e so colossal, that the Heracl in ni dulce and tin'
ScHeeio i-n)rnitl>!t'<>lliit< not seldom overtop tlie rider on hoi'sc-
XAXrUAI. WHAI/ni OF KAMTSCMATKA.
'J91
K:iliitM'liiiik;ii!
liiiclc. Tlio pnstnro j^touikIs aiv so rxcclltMit, tliut tlio pTass
( ;iii •^•('lu 'rally bi* cut thrice during- llie short siiinuior, ami
(Ims a ooiiii)arativ(.'ly small extent of land atlonls the winter
supply for all the eattle of a hamlet.
Thon;^'h the eold winds |»revent the j:^rowth of trees
alon;^ the coast, the more inland monntain slopes and val-
leys are clothed with woods richly stocked wiih sables and
sijnirrels.
No country in the world has a greater abundance of excel-
lent fisheries. In sprin;^- the salmon ascend the rivers insneh
;ima/,inL>- nundjers, that on i>luno-ing a dart into the stream
cue is almost sure to strike a tish; and Steller atlirms that
till' bears and do^s of Kamtschatka cateh on tin? banks
more tish with their paws and mouths, than man in other
cimntries with all his cunninL>' devices of net or an^'le. As
tlic various birds of passa^v do not all wander at the same
lime to the north, so also the various kinds (»f tishes mi;4'rate,
some sooner, others later, and conse(piently profnsion rei^-ns
(lui-inf>' the Avhole of the summer. Ermann was astonished
ill tliis incalculable abundance of the Kamtsehatkan rivers, fur
ill uiie of them, when the Avater was only six inches deep, he
s;i\v nudtitudes (»f Chaekos (Shniitrtitliiilits) aslonu-ns his arm
I'Mi-tly stranded on the banks, partly still endeavouring to
nsccnd the shallow stream. As the waters contain such an
incredible multitude of fishes, wo cannot wonder that the
incky coasts of the peninsula sw^arm with sea-fowl, whose
breeding and roosting places are as densely peopled as any
otlicrs in the world. At the entrance of the A\yatscha Bay
lies a remarkable labyrinth of rocks, separated from each
other by narrow channels of water, like the intricate streets
et' an old-fashioned city. The flood has everywhere scooped
out pictiu-esque cavities and passages in these stupendous
iiKisses of stone, and the slightest wind causes the waves
to beat with terrific violence against their feet. Every
le'lge, platform, and projection, every niche, hollow, and
crevice, is peopled with sea birds of straiige and various
<'ernis. In the capture of these birds the Kamtschatkans
"lisjilay an intrepidity equal to that of the islanders of St.
KiKla or Feroe, and trust solely to their astonishhig agility
V 2
•J!t-*
Tin; l'OI,.\l{ WOULD.
ill <'liiiil»iii<4. Biirctnoted, without rop^'s <»r any otltcr nssisl-
aiicc, tlicv vi'iituivdown i\\o stcfpcst declivities, wliiidi mit i'vc-
f|U('iitly only acct'ssildc IVoiii tin* to|), as the t'oaiiiinj^' ln'cakci^
cut ott' all access from lielow. Tlie left arm clasjis a haskd
which tliey liil with eii'^-s as they advance, while the riulit
hand i,n'asps a short stick with an iron hook to dra<^' the hiri's
from the cn'vices of th<' rock, AVlien a hird is can;^'ht, a dex-
terous <>ri]) wrin;4's iis n<'ck. and it is then attacdied totln'
j^nr<lle of the lowler. In this manner an expert clindier will
kill in on<' dav from seventv to eijj'hty hirds, and '••ather aho\c
('"■o'S.
a hundred
Thus the ]»<ip\dation of Kanitschatka is (niite out of pro-
portion to the riches of its ]«astnres and waters. Its scanty
inhahitants are moreover concentrated on a few s[»ots ahmu'
the chief rivers and hays, so that alnn»st the whole peninsula
is nothing'- hut an uninhabited wihU'rness.
Before the coinpiest of the country by the Russians it h;cl
at hnist twentv times its present ])oi)ulation, b\it the criieliv
to
of the Cossacks and the ravai^-es of the smaIl-[>ox caused i',
nudt away ahuost as ra.pi<lly as that of C'uha or Haiti aftei-
the arrival of the Spaniards. At that tinw the saltle ami
the sea-otter were considered of far ;_;'reater importain-e
th;
in m
im ; and uid'ortunatelv Russia has too manv desert-
to people, betbrL' she can tliink of repairiujj; past errors and
sparing- inhabitants for this remotest corner of her vast
Asiatic empire.
As the 2)eninsula is too distant from the liiti'hways of the
world to attract the tide of emio-ration, it is also seldinii
visited ]»y travellers. The few strang-i'rs, h<»wever, wlie
have sailed alonu' the coasts, or nuido excursions into tin'
interior of the country, sjieak with enthusiasm of the bohhicss
of its rocky pr<>mont()ries, the mau'nitieence of its bays and
mountains, and only reyret that during- the o-n'ater pai't of
the year an Arctic winter veils the beauties of the lands(a[>"
under mists and snow.
Throughout its "wholo length Kanitschatka is traversed l»v
an Alpine chain rising in some of its jjoaks to a height of
1 !■,(»( Ml i)v l<l,oOO feet, and numbering no less than 28 active
volcanoes along with many others whose fires are extimt.
A land thus undermined with subterranean fires must \>''
Ml\i;i{.\l- SlM!IN*(iS (»!•' KAMTSCII ATKA.
•-»!»{
• ;)ssis1-
!ivr IVc-
•IH'ilkrls
I l)iisk<'1
lie hin's
, a <1"'X-
l to tll<'
[])VY will
cv alx'Vi'
(»1" iti'ii-
s sen 111}
•is iil'iiiu'
eninsiihi
IS it liinl
i> enit'lty
is('<l i'. 1<>
liti ;ii'l<'r
able a 111!
portaii'-i'
(lesri'ls
ors cind
u'V vast
■s of 111''
ScM'MU
■r. wlio
into till'
:)!iys auil
pavt lit
ni(lsca[ii>
rsoil l>y
cio'lil lit
IS active
cxtiiii't-
must 1"'
iiissi'sst'd of iiianv iiiiin'1'iil riclics, Imt as yd im one lias
r tliiir.Li'lif of sct'kiim' I'nr llinii or inittinu" tlicm to nsf.
< hviii!4' b» till' 'j;v(';i\ huiiiitlity (»t' the el i mate and the (|uan-
iVi
titii
iiliiMnu
of rain attraetcd 1)V tin- mountains, Kamtseliatlva
m
s]>i'inLi'>'.
In the hiwhinds tIu'v n'ush inrtli in
>iirh nund)ers as to rt'udcr it \cry dittieult to travid any dis-
t, nee on toot or horscbaelc. even in winter, as tiii>y |ti'event
llif rivers from treeziny-. X(t doul)t many a mineral s[irinL;-
I'old, tepid, or warm — that would make the foi'tune of a
(iirman spa. here Hows uiiiiotieed into tiir sea.
ivamtseliatka has many exeelU'nt harbours, and the ma;4'-
iiiiii-ent Bay of Awatseha would alone 1)0 Jible to atl'ord room
ti. all the navies of the world, lis steep r(»(dcy shores are
iiliuiist everywhere (dothed with a s[)ecies of beeidi {IlifnJu
i:
.III II It I
intermin<j;"led with luxuriant ^^rasses and herbs, and
the hii^'her s1o[m's ai'e jL^'enerally eovei-ed with a dense uuder-
wnod of everi4'reens and shrubs of deeiduous foliage, whoso
rliinu'es <tf colour in autumn tin^'i^ the landsea])e "with yellow,
iv'l. and brown tints. But the cdiiet' beauty of the Hay of
Awatseha is tlw pros]>ect of the distant numntains. forming' a
' 'iidid pinoi'inna of fantastii*
1
I'a
an(
I V(d
eanie cone
nil
I'lMLi' which the Streloshnaja Sojdca towers jire-eminent t
the liei;4'ht of II. <><)(► feet. Close to this y'iant.luit somewhat
ii'er to the co;ist, ris<'s the active volcano of Awatseha,
111'
Willi
h fre(|Uentlv covers the Avhole countrv with ashe
The vast Bav of Awats(dia forn
IS several minor cret
•]<>
;iiiii>iii4- others the haven of Saint Peter and Paul, one of the
tiiiivt natural harl)(»urs in the Avorld. where the Kussians
liiive established the seat of their e-overnnient in the small
tnun of Petropaulowsk, which hardly nund)ers ')00 inhabit-
iiiils, but has ac(|uired sotne celei>rity frcun the unsuccessful
aitai-kof the Enu'lisli and Fi-euch forces in !>;■'>!.
iJesides some Jakut iiufiiie-rants, the (diief sto(dc of the
le descent
lant;
iity [)o[»ulation (»f the country consists of tl
llie ])rimitive Kamtscliatkans, who, in si»ite of frequent
4ill
.11
iiit"rmarriati'es wi
th tl
leu" conquerors
the (
ossac
ks, 1
hev are ot a sma
lave
f
I'liiiied many of their ancient manners.
^(atiire, but broad shouldered, their cheidc bones are promi-
iiiiit, their jaws uncommonly broad and projecting-, their
iiiises small, their Hjis very full, their hnir blnek. The colour
294
TIIH 1'0I>A1{ WOULD.
I k
of the int'ii is diirk brown, or Hoinotimos yellow; tlu* woinoii
luive fairer ((tiiiplexions, which they endeuvour 1<» jiresei-vc
by means (tf bears' ^nits, stuck upon their faces in sprin;^- with
fish lime, so as not to l)e burnt by the sun. They also paint
I heir cheeks with a. sea-weed, which, when rubbed \i[»on
tlieni will) fat, ^ives them a beautiful red colour.
Tlie K'anitschatkans area remarkably healthy race. Many
of them attain an a<^'e of seventy or ei<4'hty years, and are
able to walk and to work until their death. Their hair
seldom turns j^avy before their sixtieth year, and eveu the
oldest men have a lirm and elastic ste[>. The weij^ht of tlu'ir
body is o-ivater than that of the Jakuts, thou^'h the latter
live on milk and flesh, while iish is the almost exclusive
food of the Kamtschatkans. The round tubercles of the
Frltillaria *SVoT«?wt, a species of lily Avith a dark purple tlower,
likewise play an important part in their diet, and serve them
instead of bread and meal. ' If the fruits of the bread-fruit
tree,' says Kittlitz — who has seen both plants in the places
of their j^rowth — ' are pre-eminent aniono- all others, as afford-
in«j;' man a perfect substitute for bread, the roots of the Sarrami,
which are veiy similar in taste, rank perhaps immediately
after them. The collecting* of these tubers in the meadows
is an important summer occupation of the women, and one
which is rather troublesome, as the plant never grows gre-
gariously, so that each root has to be sought and dug out
se[)arate]y with a knife. Fortunately the wonderful activity
of the 8iberia,n field-vole facilitates the labour of gathering
tlie tubers. These remarkable animals burrow ext(.'nsi\e
winter nests, with five <,)r six storehouses, which they lill
with various roots, but chiefly with those of the Sarraiia.
To find these subterranean treasures, the Kamtschatkans use
sticks with iron points, which they strike into the earth.
The contents of three of these nests are as much as a luaa
can carr}^ on his back.
A species of fungus, called Muchamor, affords a favourite
stinndant. It is dried and eaten raw. Besides its exliila-
ratiug effects, it is said to produce, like the Peruvian Coca, a
remarkable increase of strength, which lasts for a consider-
able time.
Fishing and hunting supply all the wants of the Kauits-
KAMTSCIIATKAX iXKiS.
"Ids
WOlllCll
ii<j,-Avilli
jO paint
J U[>()ll
Many
iiml air
.'ir liair
'VOll till'
of tlit'ir
10 hitler
xolusivc
•i of the
llower,
L've tliciii
.'jid- fruit
e plai'os
LS atiui'd-
Sarrana,
leJiatclv
ueadows
iiid one
)AVS ti'l'l'-
tluo- (lUl
activity
itlicriiii;'
xtciisivi'
tlioy till
SaiTaiKi.
cans use
e eavtli.
a man
•ivonvitc
oxliila-
1 Cdca.a
■ousidt'i'-
Kanits-
( li;illvaus, f(»r tlii'y have not yot loariit to prolit in any dt';_;Tt'('
worth mentioning- by the hixurianco of their nieaihiw-lands.
'I'licy pay their taxes and purchase their foreij^n hixuries —
meal and tea, tobacco and brandy — Avith furs. The chase (»f
the costly sea-otter (which from excessive persecution had
;it one time' almost become extinct) has latterly improved.
IJtsides the fur animals, they also hunt the reindeer, the
;ny'ali, the wolf, and the bear, whose skins supply them with
ithiiu
(,i(iuiin<4'.
JJears abound in Kamtschatka, as they find a never-failinj^
sujudy of fishes and berries, and Ermann assures us that they
would lonfj since have extirpated the inhabitants, if (most
[aobably on account of the plenty in Avhich they live) they
were not of a more o-entle disposition than any others in the
woild. In sprin}^' they descend from the mountains to the
iiiouths of the rivers, to levy their tribute on the mio-ratory
troops of the fishes, frequently eatin<^' <*idy the heads.
Towards autumn they follow the fishes into the interior of
the ci»untry as they ascend the streams.
The most valuable domestic animal in Kamtschatka is the
dd^', Avho has the usual characters of the Esquimaux race, lie
lives exclusively on fish, which he catches very dexterously.
From spriny; to autumn he is allowed to roam at liberty, no
niic troublinj^' himself about him ; but in October, every pro-
laietur collects his dogs, binds them to a post, and lets them
tiist for a time, so as to deprive them of their superfluous fat,
;nidt(> render them more fit for runnino'. Durino-the winter
tliev are fed with dried fish everv morniun- and eveiiinjjr, but
while travelling' they get nothing to eat, even though they run
tor liuurs. Their strength is wonderful, (ienerally no more
than five of them are harnessed to a sledge, and will drag
with case three full-grown persons, and sixty pounds wt'ight
"f luggage. When lightly laden, such a sledge will travel
tVoiii :>0 to 40 versts in a day over bad roads and through
the deep snow ; on even roads from 80 to 110? The horse
laii never be used for sledging, on acconnt of the deep snow,
into which it would sink, and of the numerous rivers and
sources, which are either never fr<»/en, <jr merely coveriMl
with a thin sheet of ice, unable to bear tlie weight of so largo
an animal.
'2'JO
Tin: i'olm; \\niii.i».
'rriivclHiiy' with don's is, huwi'vcr. Iiotli tl;iii!^t'i'«»us iiii<I
(lifllclih. Iiistciid ('(' tilt' \vlii|i. 111' l\:iiiit>cli;itlviilis ii-.'
ii crooKc'l stick \vi(li ii-dii riiiLis. \vlii(|i. I>y 1 heir jiii^liii;:".
Li'lvc llic IcMilcr oi' tlic Iciilii the l|fci>.>;| I'V si'jllil Is. WIhii
1Im' (i(»^'s do not siiHiciciilIy cxci't t In'iiisclvcs. Ilic sliik
is ciist iiiiioii^' tliciii t(» roiisc lliciii (<i L;'i(';iti'i' s|M'f(l : lnit
then ilx' triivcllcv must ln' dcxtriniis ciiuii'^li to \>\v\< ii
uj> iiy'iiiii wliilt' tlio sl('<l;4'c sli(»(»ts iiii'iin". DiiriiiL;' :i siicu-
stonii, tlu' (Id^s K('('|> tlicii- iniislrr wiiriii, iiinl will lie (|ui( tl\
iM'iir liim lor liours, so tliat lie luis im rt'ly to ijrcvciit llic siidu
f'roiii covt'i'iii^' liim too deeply iiiid siitVocatiie^ liiiii. 'riw
doys lire iilso cxcfdlcut wriitlicr jiro|ili('ts. lor wlieii, while
rostiii;^', tiiey di;^' liolcs in llie snow, ii ^(ornl uiiiy wilh
ccrtiiiiity Ite expected.
Tiie sledL»'e-do<;'s iire tniined to tlieir t'nture service iit a veiy
early period. Soon after l)irtli they are jilaced with tlhir
mother in a deep pit. so as to see neither man nor Ix'ast, ainl
after having- heen weaned, they are a^'ain eondemned to soli-
tai'v eonlinement in a \>\\. A Iter six months they are attac!ir(l
to a. sled,<4'e witli otln'r older dot;'s, iind beinn' extremely sliy.
they run as fast as tliev can. ( >n retm-niie^ home, the\ mv
\M.
ain eonlined in tlieir jdt, where thev remain until tl
le\ ;il'('
perfectly trained, and aWe to perform a lon<_f journey. 'I'ln ii.
but not before, thev are allowed their summer liherlv.
li'V
This severe education (•omi)h'te1y s<jiu's their tem]»er, and tl
constaiith' remain <;'hiomy, shy. quarrelsome, and suspicioii<.
To return to the Kanitschatkans — travellers jn-aise tlnir
g'oodnature, their ]ios[»itality, and their natural wit. ( M ;i
sau<^'ui.;e <lisposition, tliey are hapi)y and content in tlnir
poverty, ami have no cares for the morrow. Ueini;" extremely
indolent, they never work uuk'SS when compelled. Thev
readily a<lopt strange manners, and no doubt education miiilit
produce valuable results in so pliable an<l sharp-witted a raci'.
llnfortunaiely the Russians and Cossacks who have setthil
anion«>' them do not afford them the best examples. Tln'V
luivo lonsj;" since been converted to the (Jreek (.liuj'ch, but it
is supposed that baptism has n<.>t fully effaced all traces uf
Selr.uuanisui. Formerly they had mauy ^"ods, the chiet' et
whom was Kutka. the creator of heaven and earth. Ihit tar
from honouriuu' Kutka. thev continuallv ri<liculed him. mid
I! I
rolls iiiiil
kiiiis ii>i'
jiliLiliiiL:',
<." Wl.ni
llic slick
|i('i'(l : liiit
:<> pick ii
;• a siidw-
lic (|Uirtl\
t the siidw
lilll. 'I'lh'
It'll, wliilc
iiiiiv wilh
KAMIXIIATKW ( II AI.'ACTKi;
H'irsiitiiv. Kiiik;i, I
m;hl(' liiiii tli.'<'..ii.stiiiit I. lift <,(■ t!
I'iHliiuii;. ("Imcl.v, uhovviis,.iMluu,.,| with :illtli..ii,'i,.|li',-
Ml Wllicl. UvV SlMMISr was Sl.l.,,ns,.,l In 1„. , l.-liH.-uf , ,,,,.1 uf
•j!»:
|ii\vc\('|'
cure
til
lit, ilS
"• ••as.. ,n iMiiMv lanri;,! l,(,us..k-<...|.ii,o.s, uas mu.luuiW
rx.Ttm- li.T iiij.,.„uity ill rrpairin- ll„> h|,:M..l..rs ,,f' l„.f lunl
and luustcr.
I' a1 a vriA
ivitli tlii'ir
I least, and
('(I to sdli-
1' atlaclicil
'Uiclv sliv.
', tllt'V illV
1 tlicv ;iiv
y. 'Vhm.
'1' lilxTly.
, aiul liii'v
ns[)i('iou<.
'aisc tlifir
vit. or II
t ill tln-ir
cxtrt'iiii'iv
L'CL TlirV
tion iiiiu'ht
tod a riM''.
ve si'ifli'il
OS. Tlu'v
rcli, 1)1 it it
[ traeos vi
e t'hic't' nt'
. But far
liiiii. and
UJin Ki I .irr.aux L'u:;.
■mn
■•J?j-#j*.^
The ScJcntary TchiiktcLi and their Tciitd.
( From an ori.'ina' sk-f li l.y F't'lerlcli Wiiymp- r.)
CHAPTER XXIV.
THE TCIIUKTCHI.
'I'lic Liiiul of llic 'rrliuktolii — TliL'ir imlcppinlont Spirit aiifl commoivial KiiU
JilMI-
Ti'iMH'liial Mii.n'atii>iis — The Fair of Ostrownoio — Visit in a 'J'l'iiukl
I'dlipif - Hai'rs — 'I'l'liukli'li Ilajatlcros
— Tiic Onkilon or Scdi'iitary Ti'liuktclii — Tiifir }>h
The Tiniiyi:k or lu'iiidi'cr Toliuklciii
>fLif.'.
A.
r tlio extivinc north-eastern point of Asia, bounded li\
the Polur Oeean on one si(h' and the sea of Behrin^'
on the other, lies the hmd of the Tchuktehi. The few
travellers Avho hiive ever visited that bleak proniontorv
describe it as one of the dreariest reji'ions of the eartli.
The climate is dreadfully cold, as may be expect(^d in ;i
country contined between icy seas. Bef(nv.July 20th there is
no appearance of summer, and winter already sets in al)out
Au^'ust 2()th. The lower grounds shelving* to the north :ire
intersected with numerous streams, which, however, enj"V
their libertv but a short time of the vear ; the vallevs iiiv
mostly swampy and tilled with snuill lakes or ponds; wliil*'
1 CI
on the bleak hill slopes tlie Vaccinium and the dwarf bird
willow sparingly vegetate under a carpet <jf mosses and liclien
Tin: fa;u oi' ostuowno-ii-:
•2fit>
Tlic cnstorii, iiorth-etistorii, and ]>iirtly also tlio souUrtu
I'l i;is
fee-
Wt--
ulod l>y
>«>lirinL;"
he low
loiitorv
earth,
il in a
here is
1 about
)rt]i are
ys an'
; ^vhil''
)in'h or
iehens.
Is ahouml with wahaises, sea-lions and seals, while the
i,i!itleer, the arj^'ali, the wult, and the Arctie fox oeeiijiy the
laii<l. Dnrino- the short summer, "^vese, swans, dueks, and
uiiiliui^- l)irds lre(|ucnt the marshy oT(»unds; but in winter
till' snow-owl and the raven alone remain, and constantly
ft How the path of the nomadie inhabitants.
In this desolate nook of the Old World lives the only
almri^'inal people of North Asia whieh has known how 1<»
iiiaiutain its liberty to the present day, and whieh, pntudof its
iiiilt'[)endenee, looks down with soverei^'u contempt upon its
ivlations, the Korjaks, who, without otfering any resistance,
have yielded to the authority of Russia.
The rulers of Siberia have indeed confined the Tchuktchi
within narrower limits — but here at least they obey no forei^'ii
iiilcr, and wander unnndested by the stram^jer, with their
II iiuierous reindeer herds, over the naked tundras. A natural
distrust of th(.'ir powerful neighbours has rendered themhaig-
miwillin<^^ to enter into any commercial intercourse with the
Russians and to meet them at the fair of Ustrownoje, a small
I'lwii, situated not far from their frontiers, on a small island
III llie Aniuj, in (58° N. lat.
This reuiotest trading--place of the Old World is not so
uiiiiii[»ortant as miy-ht be supposed from the sterile nature
iif ilie countrv, for the Tchuktchi are not satisfied, like the
iuilolciit Lapps or Hamojedes, with the produce of their rein-
ilii r herds, but strive to increase their enjovments or their
|M.i|H'rty by an active trade. From the East Oape of Asia,
while, crossing' Behring's Straits in boats covered with skins,
tli'v barter furs and walrus teeth from the natives of America,
till' Tchuktchi come Avith their goods and tents drawn on
sli'dgcs to the fair of Ostrownoje. Otlier sledges laden with
liiliciis, the food of the rt'indeer, foll(.»w in their train, a.s
ill tlicir wauderings, however circuitous, they not sclddiii
ii;!ss through regions so stouv and desert as not even to
aH'oid these frugal aninr.ils the slightest re}»ast. Thus
reuulatiiig their movements by the wants of their herds,
tliiy rcfjuire live or six months for a journey which, in
II 'lirect line, wouM uot be much longer than a thousand
vi rsis, mid are almost constantly wandering from place to
•.\m>
TlIK I'oLAK WOUIJ),
|)l:ic<', tliduu'li, us tlii'V iilwiivs ciiiTV tlirir (Iwclliiiu'S ali'iiu-
Avitli them, tln'V i)t the sumo time iicvt'V Icuvc liomc <>iif
of tlicsc snail-likt' caiMvaiis <i'('iK'i'ally coiisisis of lifty or
six'tv families, and one fair is scarcely at an ciitl wlu'u llii y
set otf to make their arran^-ements for the next.
Tohaci-o is the primum mobile of tlie tra(h> Avliieh eeiilres
in Ostrownoje. Tlie (h'sire to proenrt,' a few of its iiarcolic
li'aves itiduees tlie Ameriean b]s([uiniaiix, from tlie ley i';\\u'
to Bristol ]>ay. to send their prodnee' from hand to hand as
far as Ihe <J\vosde\v Islands in ]>ehrinL;''s Straits, where it is
bartered i'or the tol)aeeo iA' the Tehukt(dii, and these aL^ain
principally resort to ilie fair of ( )strowuoje to pnrchase lu-
bacco from the Russians, (lenerally the Tehukt(dii receive
from the Americans as many skins foi- half a poo<l or eiuli-
teeii pounds of tobacco-leaves as they alter.vards sell te
tlie Russians for two poods of t(»bacco of the same (pialitv.
These cost the linssiau merchant al)out !()(► roul)les at tln'
very ntniost, while the slcins Avhicdi he obtains in barter a''^'
■worth at least liCiO at Jakutsk, and nnn-e than double tliul
sum at St. Petersburu'.
The fiU's ((f the Ti-hnl<t(dii ]»riucipally consist of black ainl
silver u'rey foxes, stiuie foxes, li'luttons, lynxes, otters, beavers,
and ;i tine s]iecies of marten wliich does not occur in Siberia.
and approaches the sable in vaUie. They also brinu' io the
fair bmir-skins, walrns-tlion^'s and te<^th, sledi^-e-runners i>\'
whale-ribs, and ready-made cdotlu's of reindeei'-skin. Tli"
American turs are ^'enerally packed in sack's of seal-skin.
Avhich ari' made in an in^'cnious manner l)v extracting' l!ie
bones and iiesh throu^'h a small opening- made in the abdonieii.
The Russian traders outlieir ]>art briuL;' tit the i'aii'. besidrs
tobacco, iron-ware -particularly kettles and knives for t!i''
IVdiuktchi. and tea. snLi'ar. and various stutfs for their cniii)-
trymen Avho have settk.'d ah)n^' the Kolyma.
13ut(Jstrownoje attracts not (»nly T(diidvt( hi and Russians:
a ;j^reat number of the Siberian tribes from a vast circuit ef
1,0(10 or l.oOO versts Jukahires. Lamutes, Tun^^usi, Tscliu-
wan/i, Koriaks — also come ilockiii;,^' in their sledp's. drawn
partly by doi>s. ]»artly by horses, for the purpos(» of bartering'
their commodities au'ainst the <j"oods of tlu^ Tchukttlii.
Fancy this barbarous assembly lueetiui*' every year dui'in-'
ol'KM.Nd <U' TIIK lAII!.
.•idl
)lllt'. OlP'
r lifty or
Vllt'll lllrv
rll (•('Hires
s iiiircdiic
lev Ca].'
() hand as
rhcrc i( is
.eso iiLi'aiii
rcliiisi' 1m-
lli I'crciv
I or ('iL:!i-
ils sell In
e qualilv.
1(!S ilt till'
barter aiv
ouble tliat
l)lack aiiil
s, l)('a\('rs,
II iSilii'i'ia.
iii;^- lo llic
uiiicrs of
cin. 'I'll''
seal-skill.
cliiiH' tlic
alMldiiini.
ii\ Ix'sidi's
s— tor 111''
leir couii-
J'ussiaiis:
circuit ct'
i. Tscliu-
es. drawn
l)arterin^'
\dinktclii.
ir diii'iiiL:'
i!m' iiileiise cold and short days of the heL-'iiniini:;' of March.
I'iitiirc to youi'sclf the fantastic illuniinal ion ni' their red
w.itiji-lires hlazinti" under the stari-y lirniainent. or miiii^-iiii^*
;lieii- ruddy ;^'l.ire with the Aurora ilickeriiiL;' throii^-h the
-kies. and add to the strange si^ht the hollow sound (d' the
>.liaiiiaii*s di'iuii. and the howliiiL;- of several hundreds ot'
himL;-ry doii's. and yon Avili surely confess that no fair has a.
iiiMi'e orie'inal cliaracter than that of < )st I'ownoje. A '^-overn-
puiil coinniissai'y, assisted l)y some ("ossacks. siijierinlends
the lair, and receives the inconsiderahle market-tax which
t!i'' 'rchuktclii [lay to the l'hii|teror.
All [ireliminaries havinu' lieen arran;4'ed, the orfhodo.v
lJii>>i;iiis re[iair to tlie (drajtel for the pnriiose of heai-iiiLT a
s'i'iiin mass, aftei- which, tiie hoistiuL;' (d'a ihiL;" on the lower
Mt'ihe ()stroLi," announces tlie o|ieninti' <'f the market. At this
\\e|((niie siLi'n the Tidiuktchi, coni])lete!y armed with spears.
li.M\s and ai'rows, advance with their sled<_i'es. and forma wide
-I'lidcircle round the fort, wdiile the JIussians. ainl t!ie other
\i>itirs of tile fair, raiiu'cd ojtjiosite to them, await in l>reatli-
l^^s silence the toll ill !4" of the bell, whitdi is to he^-in t he act ive
liihiiii->s of the day. At Iho very iirst souiuL each trader.
L;iiMes(|Uely laden with ]ia(dca<4"es of tobacco, k'elths. knives.
er whatever else he snii[)oses Ijest able to >U|iply soiiie want.
el' In strike some fancy (d' the 'l'(diuktchi. rushes as iast as
liecaii towards the sleds^H s, and in the jumble not seldom
knurjvs down a coinpetitor. or is himself stret(died at full
leii'_;!li on the snow. liut, nnmindt'ul <d' the loss (»!' ca[> and
l:!'i\i's, which be does not Li'ive himself time to piclc u[i, he
>i iris afresh, to make uj) for the delay by redoubled acti\ ily.
b-i'.ai' he reaches tlu.' Iirst T<dinkt(di. his eloi|Ueiic(' lireaks
t'e.iji in an interiniMable How. ainl in a straiiue jai'uou «d"
h' i--iaii. T(hukt(di, and Jakute, he praises the excellence
ef jiis toiijcco. or the solidity of his kettles. 'I'he iiii|M'r-
liir'nabie M'ravity of the T( hukt(di foruis a remarkable cdii-
l;'a>l with the Li'reedy caL^'erness (d'tlie Russian trader: witli-
I'lil l•e[)lyin^• t(» his harant^'ue, lie merely shakes his head if
tile other oifers him loo litth; for his i^-oods, ami never ibr an
iii>iant loses his self-])oss(>ssion : while the itiissian. in his
liiiiiy. not seldom hands over two jioods (d' t aba ceo lb r one. or
|"'l\cts a red fox. instead of a bhu-k one. Allhouyh the
3U2
TIIK rOLAll WORLD.
Tclmktcli liiivo no scales with tlicni, it is not onny in
(loecivo tlioni in tlic wci^'lit, for they kiKjw oxiietly hy 1lic
feeling" of the luind whether a qnarter of a pound is wantiiit^'
to the pud. The whc»le fair se](h)in hists h)n^'er than tliivr
(lays, and Ostrownoje, which must have but very few sta-
tionary inhabitants indeed (as it is not even mentioned in
statistical accounts, which cite townis of seventeen souls), is
soon after abandoned for many months to its ultra- Siberian
solitude.
But before w^c allow the Tchuktchi to retire to their
deserts, we may learn something" more of their habits liy
accompiinyin«4' Mr. Matiuschkin — Wranj^-ell's companion — oii
a visit to tlie ladies of one <-)f their first chiefs. ' We i-nter tlic
outer tent or " naniet," consistini«- of tanned reindeer skins
supported on a slender framework. An opening* at the tup
to let out the smoke, and a kettle in the centre, iinnouiiir
that antechamber and kitchen are here harmoniously blended
into one. But Avhere are the inmates? Most probably in
that largo sack made of the finest skins of reindeer calves,
which occupies, near the kettle, the centre of the " namet."
To penetrate into this '"sanctum sanctorum" of the Tchukidi
household, we raise the loose Hap which serves as a door,
creep on all fours through the opening, cautiously re-faslcii
the flap by tucking it under the Hoor-skin, and find ourselves
in the reception or withdrawing-room — tUe " polog." ^\
snug box no doubt for a cold climate, but rather low, as avc
cannot stand upright in it, and not quite so w^ell ventilated
as a sanitary commissioner would approve of, as it lias
positively no opening for light or air. A suffocating sun dee
meets us on entering, we rub our eyes, and when they liave
at length got accustomed to the biting atmosphere, we per-
ceive, by the gloomy light of a train-oil lamp, the worthy
family squatting on the floor in a state of almost C(»mplete
nudity. Without being in the least embarrassed, Madame
Leiittandher danghter receive us in their primitive costuiiic :
but to show ns that the Tchuktchi know how to receivi-
company, and to do honour to their guests, they immediately
insert strings of glass l)eads in their greasy hair. Tlieir
hospitality equals their politeness; for, instead of a cidd
reception, a lud disli of boiled reiiideer-ilesh, copiously ini-
AMUSEMENTS OF THE TCIIUKTCIII.
303
(■ (Misy t(i
ly l)y \hr
s waiiliiiL;'
llilU Hirer
,' few st;i-
iitioiu'd ill
I souls), is
II- Siberian
' to tlicir
luil)its liy
anion — nil
) enter tlic
deer skins
at the top
, annouiKi'
;ly ])leii(lcil
robal)]y in
eer ealves.
••' naniet."
Tehuktcli
IS a <\oi>\\
re-ilistcn
1 ourselves
00-." A
low, as ^\■('
ventilated
as it lias
in<^' sinoke
they liavc
•e, we i»er-
lie worthy
eonii>lett'
, Madame
i eostunu' :
to receive!
nnt.'diately
ir. Thei'r
ot' a ct'ld
(Uislv iri'i-
L;ated Avith rancid train-oil by the experienced hand of the
mistress of the houseludd, is soon after sniokin<4' before us.
riit'ortiuuitely ouretfenniiate taste is not up to the hunf <ji>nl
of her culinary art, and while Mr. Leiitt does anii)le justice
to the artistic talent of his spouse, by rapidly boltiny down
pieces as larye as a fist, wo are hardly able to swallow a.
morsel.'
During his visit at Ostrownoje, Matiuschkin had a favour-
alile opportujiity of bcconiinn" ac(piaint(!d with the sports of
the Tchuktchi, the chieftain jNIakoniol haviii«>- set out prizes
for a race. These consisted of a valuable silver fox, a lirst-
vate beaver slcin, and two fine walrus teeth. Nothing ca.n be
more adnnral)le than the Heetness cf the reindeer, or the
dexterity of their drivers; and the agility displayed in the
foot-race by the Tchuktchi, running at full speed in their
JK-avy winter dresses over a distance of fifteen versts, gives
a high idea of their nniscular powers. After the races, the
spectators are treated to a grand choregraphic display.
The arctic bajaderes, nmltled from head to foot in their stiff
skin garments, form a narrow circle, slowly moving their feet
backwards and forwards, and liercely gesticidating with their
hands, whilst their faces are distorted into a thousand horrible
^riiiiaces. The singing that accompanies the l^allet has no
ilinibt its charm for native ears, but to strangers it seems no
better than a kind of grunt. The representation is closed l)y
three first-rate atiisfis executing ji particularly fav(»urite
(huice. The faces of their countrymen express the same in-
tense admiration with which a European dilettante follows
the graceful pirouettes of a Taglioni, whih' the liussian
;4uests see only three greasy monsters alternately rushing
towards each other and starting back, until at length they
stop from sheer exhaustion. As a token of tlunr satisfac-
tion, the Russians regale the fair performers with a cup of
hiaiidv and a r(dl of tobacco, and both iJarties take leave of
eaeh other with nnitual protestations of satisfaction and
rrieiidshi[».
Though m(»st .of the reindeer or "nomadic Tchuktchi have
In-eu baptized, yet Wrangell supi)oses the ceremony to have
heeii a mere financial speculatitjji on tiieir i»art, and is con-
vinced that the power <.»f the Schamans is still as great as
nm
;{u4
Tiir: roLAK wdki.d.
<'V<'r. All ('pi(l(.'iiii<* liiiil ciuricd ofl" ii <xvt:u\. mimlK'v of ptn--
soiis, iiiid iilso whole licrds of i'( iiidccr. hi Viiiii the Sclm-
iiiaiis liiid ivf« (ur.se to tlicir iisuiil conjuriitioiis, tlio plii;_;ui'
coiitiiiiK.'d. Tlicy coiisultcd to^a'tlier. mid directed tluit
one of their most resi»eeled chiefs, iiiiiiied Kotsrlioii, linisf
Ih' Siiciilired, to ;i)>|)(.':i.se the irritiite<l sj)irits. Kotselieii
"Wiis Millii)<^- to suI.Miiit to tht' sentence, Imt none conhl l>e
found to execute it, until his own son. prevailed on hy his
father's e.\h(»rtations, and territied hv his threatened curse,
plunn'e<l a, knife into his heart, and n'ave his l»ody to the
Schanians.
P(d\;4'aniy is i:"enera1 amonu' the Tchuktchi, and thev
elian^'(.' their wives as often as they please. Still, tliou^'h the
•\V(uneii are certainly slaves, thev are wljowed more iidlueiice,
and are suhjecled to less labour than anione- many sava^'es.
Amony'st other heathenish an<l defeslahie customs, is that of
killiiin' all deformed children, an<l all old people as soon as
they become unlit for the hardshi|is and fatiL;'ues of a, nomade
life. 'J\v<> years l>efor<' Wran^-eli's an'ivul at Kolyma, there
was an instance of this in the c;ise of ()ne of their richest
(diiefs. Waletka's father became intirm and tired of life, and
was put to death at his own e.\j»ress desire, l)y some of lii^
nearest relations.
Besides the waiideriiej", or reindeer Tchukttdii, who call
themselves Tenny^k, there are others dwelliiiL:' m lixed
liabitations alon;^' the Ijoi'ders of the sea. at JJehrine-'s Straits
and the (iulf of Anadyr, who dill'er considerably from the
former in appearance and lan^•vlaL;•e. These Onkilon, of
stationary Tchuktchi, belonii" to the wide-spread Es<juimaii\
familv, and, lik(> most of their race, subsist bv huutine- tlie
whale, tlu' walrus, and the seal. They live in a state of ab-
ject dependence on the nomad Tchuktchi, and are [)oor, lik»'
all lislieriiien, while some of the Tennvyk chieftains possess
several th(msauds of reindeer, and are continually addiiiLj' tn
their wealth by trade. Of C(»urse there is an active oxchanuv
of commodities between the two; the Onkilon furnishing
thong's of walrus hide, walrus teeth, train oil, Ovc, andreceiv-
in;4' reindeer skins. (»r ready-made clothes of tlu' same mate-
rial, in return.
'J'hey live in small settienieuts or viilag-cs spread aloiiy* tin,'
Nr.MiiKijs (»K Tin; TCIUKTCIII.
,']().>
roiist ; tlioir Imfs, raised on friinunvorlcs of whale ril> and
(dvcrt'd with skins, ivscmble a la !•<;•(> irre^-uhir cone r('}>osinn"
(III its side, with the apex directed to the north and the 1)ase
slii'lviji^* ahruptly to the south. Here is the suiiill opeiiiiii;',
cldst'd by a (lap of loose? skin, which serves as a door, while
tiic sDioko escapes and tlie li^-ht enters thronj^-h a K>nnd hole
ill till' ]-o(»f. At the further or n(»vtli('rn end of this structure
is a second low S(piare tent coviMvd with donhle reindccM"
skins, the polo;^-, wliich in winter serves l)oth as the dining'
mill hed-rooni of the family.
The Onkilon catch seals in a kind <»f net nnidc of Icafhcr
>t!aiis, Avhich they spread out nnder the iee, and in whicdi the
iiiiiiiial entang'les itself with the head oi- ilip|>ers. When the
wiihtis, which is particularly abundant about Koliutschin
Ulnnd, creeps on shore, they steal ui>on it unawares, ctit oH'
its retreat and kill it with their spears. Like the E.s(piiniau.v,
tlii'v use do'^'s to drai"' their sled^'cs.
Tlie nund)er of the Tchnktchi is o-veater than one mi^ht
I'Xpect to Hnd in so sterile a C(»untry. Aceordini;" to tlu*
Kussian niissionaries. there wer(\ some years back, .'i^ nlussos
(11' viliai^vs of the („)nkilon, witli l,o<;S tents and 10,000
iiihaltitants ; and Wrau<4'ell tells ns that the Tennyi;!: are
lit least twice as nnnierons, so that the entii-e po])n1atiou of
the land of the Tchuktchi inav ])ossil)lv amount to :|0,0()0,
ii'- t n fir ■ nrr .
Kat'.vcs "f ■'";iia!a3c'..l-:a.
(/IfAPTER XXV.
nEirUINd SKA — THE lU'SSlAX V\\l rOMl'AXY — TlIK A].i;iT>.
Jlfliriiiii- Sci -rnaliisrhk.-i-'l'lir I'l'iM'ow l.-liin.ls S|. .M^ililicu-— St. Liiiir.-nr.
— Ililiriiii:"s Straits — Tile Kussiiia \'i\v t'oiiiiiaiiy- --'J'lic Alciits 'I'lirir Clmiai'tr:
- 'I'lK'if Skill and Iiil fiiiiility in lliintinij; the St^a-uttcr — Tin.' Sra-licar \\li:il'
C'liasiiiii; AValrns SlaiiLjhtcr 'I'lic SiM-lioii.
1)EI[RIXli! SEA is cxtn'iiiely iutcrostiiiL,' in a geoo-riiplii-
) Ciil point of view, as the toniporatiirc of its cf>!ists ami
islands exhibit so stvikin;;' a contrast with that part of tin'
Arctic Ocean which extencLs between Greenland, Icelaml.
Norway, and .Spitzbergen, and affords ns the most convinciiii:
proof of the benehts we owe to the Gnlf Stream and to tin'
mild sonth-westorly winds Avhich sweep across the Atlanti'-,
While throng-h the sea, between Iceland and Scotland, a part nt
the Avarmth generated in the tropical zone penetrates by moans
of marine and aerial cnrreiits as far as Spitsbergen and
the western coast of Novaya Zemlya, the Sea of Bebring is
completely de])rived of tb.is advantage. The long chain <'t
mountainous islands Avhich bounds it on the south sivv.'s
as a barrier airainst tlie mild inMuoncc of ihe I*a(*i(i<'. and in-
I! I
rMMATi; or riiK nr.iiiiixii ska.
;t07
-St. I,;im''ii'i
li.ir Cliarai'tii'
iti ;i(l ul' warm strciinis mixing with its waters many coiisidcr-
rivcrs and deep bays yearly discharge into it enormous
;iiMi-
iiiiisses or UH
fi<
'I'll
th
Bell
S.>a li
liiis as soon as tiie navigator I'uters jieliriny nea ne [)ei'-
r.i\('s at once a considerahle fall in the tem[»eratnre, and
lliids liiiustd*' suddenly transferred from a temperate oeeauie
niiioii to one of a decidedly Arctic cliai'acter.
In s[tite, therefore, of their comi)aratively snutherly jiosi-
fidii I'for the Straits ot" ]Jehrin<!' do not even reach the An'tic
ciiclt', and the Andrianow Islands are ten deo-rees farther to
tilt' Miuth than the Feroes), those fri^'id waters are, with re<^'ard
imlimate, far less favourably situated than the seas of Spit/.-
lici'ncn.
The same i^'radual ditt'erences of temperature and v<\l;'<'-
i;iti<'ii whi(di we find in L'lialasehka, the J'ribilow Islanrls,
St. Laurence, and the Straits of IJchrini^-, within Jo" of
latitude, occur in the Shetland islands, Iceland, liear Island,
and Spit/ber<4'en ;;t distances of almost 2(>'; so that in the Sea
nf lichriniif lire increase of cold on advancing- tc» the north is
aliniit twice as rapid as iu the watt'rs between North Euro[)c
and North America.
Tlie lonL>' and narrow peninsula of Aljaska, wliiidi forms
tilt' south-eastern boun(hjry of this inhospitable sea, shows us
it> iidluenco in a very marked de^-ree, for while tlie climate
"t tlie northern side of that far projecting.;' land-tongue has
a il.'.idedly Arctic character, its southern coasts frontin;;' th<>
I'acitic enjoy a tem]K'rate clinuite. The mountain-chain
wliicji, rising- to a heig'ht of five or six thousand feet, forms the
bai-k-bone of the peninsula, serves as tlie boundary of two
distinct Avorlds, for while the northern slopes are l)leak and
tivtless like Iceland, the southern shores are eoven'd trom
till' water's edge Avith magnificent forests. While on tlu'
iinriln'rn side the walr
us »
■xtciuls his excursions down to
III!
)'• •!'»' N. L., on the southern exposure the humming-bird is
•I'lii to ilit from iiovver to lk»wer as high as (il^, the most
rtherly point it is known to attain.
The Feroe islands ((IT^ N. lat.) have undoubtedly a no
vi'iy agreeable clinuite to boast of, but they may almost be
^iiid to enjoy Italian skies when compared with IJnalasidika
•'I N. lat.), the best known (tf the Aleiitian cliain.
X 2
.■U)S
TIIK I'OLAIt WOKIJ).
Tlio Scandiniiviiui arcliipelaf^'o is frequently obsonrcil witli
foo-s, ])\\t lici'c tlicy ai'ft pcvpctuiil from April to tlie ini(MI<'
of .luiy. J''r(»iii this tiiiic (ill the end of September, Ihc
"Nveather improves, as then the southerly winds drive tlir
to^'l^y reo;ion more to the north, and enable the snn to shine
dnring a few serene daysnpon the bleak shores of Unaliischl<a.
Bnt soon the Polar air-streams rc^^'stin the snpromaey, and ii
dismal veil once more shronds the melancholy island. 8iio\v
o-enerally be}j;'ins to fall early in October, and snow-storms
occur to the very end of May. There are years in whicli it
rains continually during the whole winter. In the Fernrs
some service trees are to be seen twelve feet hiy-li or moiv,
while nothinij;' like a tree ever yrew in Unalaschka. The dif-
ference between the temperatures of the snmmer and winter,
which in the Feroes is confined to very narrow limits, is
much more considerable in Unalaschka, thouo-h here also TJie
moderatin*^- influence of the sea makes itself felt. Tims
in summer the thermometer rarely rises above ()()°, but on
the other hand in winter it still nnu'e rarely falls below -J .
Of course no corn of any khul can possibly ri])en in a cliniiit(.'
like this, but the damp and cool temperature favours tlie
gi'owth of herbs. In the moist lowlands the stunted willnw
bushes are stilled by the luxuriant o-rasses ; and even oa the
hills, the veo-etation, which is of a decidedly Alpine charac-
ter, covers the earth up to the line of perpetual snow ; wliile
several social plants, such as the Lupinus iux)tkeanus ami
the Rhododendron kamtschadalicum, decorate these disiaal
regions w4th their brilliant C(dour. The lively green ef
the meadows reminds one of the valley of Urseren, so ^\cll
known to all Alpine tourists. The mosses and lichens begin
already at Unalaschka to assume that predominance in the
Flora, which characterises the frigid zone.
A few degrees to the north of the Aleiitian chain, which
extends in a long line from the promontory of Aljasha li>
Kamtsclui.tka, are situated the Pribilow Islands, St. Clecrge
and St. Panl, Avhich are celebrated in the history of the
fur trade, the former as the chief breeding-place of the
sea-bear, the latter as that of the sea-lion. Ohamisso was
struck Avilli their wintry aspect, for here no sheltered vallcv.s
and lowlands promote, as at Umilaschka, a more vigt)i'oiis
Till-: I'lJllilLOW ISLAM).-?.
:'M>
vi'^t'tiitiou. Tilt.' rouiidod baeks of tliu hills aiul the scattered
lucks ai'o C'overod willi hlnek mid ;;'rey lichens ; and wlu'iv
llir iiieltiii!4' snows all'ord a suilieient moisture, si»lui^'nuni,
iimsses, and a lew weeds occupy the marshy ;^round. The
iVo/en earth hiis no spring's, and yel these desolate islands
li;iv(> a more southerly situation tliiin the Orkntws, A\here
liarley ^tows to ripeness. JJel'ore these islands Avere dis-
ci'Vi'j't.'d by the IJussians they had been for a;^i'S the un-
disturbed home of the sea birds and tin? larn'e cetacenn
>i;ils. Under Russian superintendence some Aleiits have
now been settled on b<jth of them. The innumerable herds
(pI sea-lions, -which cover the naked shores of St. (.Seorye iis
];ir us the eye can reach, present a strauLje si;4'ht. Tli(>
n;iiillemots have taken possession of the places nnoccu[»ie<l
li\ their families and fly fearlessly anionjj;' them, or nestle in
the crevices of the Avavc-Avorn rock-Avalls, or between the lar^-e
Ixiiilders Avhich form a bank alonn- the strand.
Still fartlier to the north lies the uninhabited island of St.
^hitthew (02" N. hit.). A settlement Avas once attempted ; but
iis the animals Avhich had been reckoned upon for the Avinter
snp[)ly of food departed, the unfortunate colonists all died of
luni^-er.
Toys are so frequent about the island of St. Laurence,
that navigators luivo often passed dost; by it (G5° N. lat.)
without seeinf>- it. Chamisso Avas surprised at the beauty and
the numbers of its dAvarfish flowerinj^- herbs, which reminded
hiiu of the hij^'hlands of Switzerland, while the nei^'hbourini;-
.St. Laurence Bay, in the land of the Tchnktchi, was the
inia^o of Avintry desolation. In July the loAvlands Avere
(■uvered Avith snow-fields, and the fcAV plants bore the
Al[iine character in the most marked degree. Under this
inclement sky the mountains, unprotected by A-cgetation,
rapidly fall into decay. Every Avinter splits the rocks, and
ilie summer torrents carry the fragments down to their feet.
The ground is everywhere covered Avith blocks of stone,
nnless Avhere the sphagnum, by the accumulation of its de-
I'uniposed remains, has formed masses of peat in i]\c sAvampy
I'lwlands.
Oil sailing througii IJehring's Straits the traveller iinivsee,
in clear weaiher, b(»ih the^>ld and the i\<'W World. (h\ ^»>[\\
:;i()
Tin: pfU^AIl WOULD,
sidcH rise lii;^)! iiioniitiiiiis jtrrcipilously iVoin tlif Avatci"-
Cflu't' ill Asiii, l»iil s»>[»iinii»Ml fVom tin- stM liv ii l»i'<>ii(l :illiivi;il
1)('U <»n llic Aiiici'iciiii si<l('. The scii is (U'cjicst oii Ww Asiiitjr
Imrdcr, wiiciT' IIk' curri'id, flowing'" fVoni tin' suiitli witli c<>\\-
sidcriiMi' r;i|ii<li( V, luis iilso ilic o-vcuicst furcf. Here ;iUm
wliiilcs iiiiiv 1)1' ol'tt'ii stM'ii, iiixl liiriiT ]nM"<ls of walniscs.
hi foniicr 1iiii"H llic hnidiir <»!" tlif M.s(|iiiiiunix' wms llic onlv
lioiil ever sci'ii ill tli(! stniits, and since Sciiirn Dcsliiicsv, wlm
lirst sailed round llio eastern poiiil of Asia, l'!ur<»pean naviga-
tors had but rarely passed tlieiii to explore the seas hevoihl :
Imt j'ecentlj tliis I'eiiiotest part of the ^vorld has become the
sci'iie (»f an active whalii iishei'v.
The shores of IJehrinn' -"iea are nalced andbleal<; and IIm-
iiuni(>rous voh'anoes of tlie Aleiitian chain itoiir out their lava
streams over unlcnown Avildei'iiesses. Ihit the waters of tin-
sea, ai'e tecMiiinj^' with lif«>. Oi^'aiitic aln"a\ such as are iicvi r
seen in the torrid zone, form, round the roclcy coasts, vast
submarine forests. A host of fishes, whales, wah'uses, and
seals, fill the sea, and its shores, and innumerable sea, hi ids
occn[)y the clitt's. IJnt these treasures of the ocean, Avliich
for a^-es furnished the Aleiits and other wild tribes with tlic
means of existence, have also been the canse of tlunr servitude.
Had the sea-ottev not existed, the wild children of the soil
mifi'ht i^ossibly still bo in possession of their ancient freedom ;
and but for the sea-boar and the walrns, the whale and tlic
seal, the banners of the C/ar wonld scarcely have met the
(lai»' of Enu'land on the continent of America.
As the whole fur trade of the Hudson's Bay Territory is
concentrated in the hands of one mii^hty company, thns als"
one powerful association ojijoys the exclusive commi-rci
the eastern possessions of Rnssia. The reyions-
anthority of the Unssian fur company* occnpy a ,iiui ,
space, as they conipriso not only all the islands ol Hehriiu
Sea but also the American coasts down to 5,")° N. lat.
extreme points of this vast territory are situated at a o-voatt r
distance from each other than London from Tobolsk, but
* Sinoo \;\^{ year, tlH> Russian ( invoriimcnt liassuM lior Aiiuriran jKis^.-ossioii^ i"
tlio I'liitrd States, Imt as if is iidl yet kiiowii Imw tart lie interest sol' tiie h'tissiau lui'
eompany liav'j lieen aniet'-il by the eliaiifj(">, I may I'e alloweil to >poak ul' hrr in t'i'
present tense.
N0l{|"nMi 1;aV
■-ill
(■ h'uf<siaii I'll!'
ut' hii" in t!'
iIh' iiiiporlaun' of ils Innli' Immi-s ik. |'r(i[iiii'| inn tn its
f.Ntrlit.
'I'lic coiiiitimy, wliidi was louiHlril, in tlir vi'nr 17!'!), tiiKlcr
tin- KiiiiMTor I'lnil, liii<l, in I s:!!t, tlili-l v-si\ Innilinn' s.-tllf-
iiii'nts un its own fci-ritdiT (the Knrili' isl;in<ls, tin- Ak'iitic
(liain, Aljaslvii, Hi'istol IJay, < 'ottlv's Inlet, Norton Sound, Ac),
liisidi's a I'liain of au'tMicics IVoni ( )(liotsl< to St. I'otci-sltui'ir.
li- chief scat is New Aivliany-el on Sildia, one of the many
islands of Kiue- (leore-o Ill.'s Arehipelae-o, Ijrsl aecni-att'ly
I'Niilorod by Viincouvor. The nia^^-nitieent hay of Xoi'folk, sii
tlie head of whieh the small town is situated, Lireatly reseni-
Mes a Norwc^'ian fjord, as we here iind the same steeji roclc-
walls hathuijj; their proeipitoiis sides in the emi'iald waters,
and (dothod with dense pine forests wherever a tree ean y-row.
A number of islets scattered over the surface of the bay
add to the beauty of the scene. The i'lirs collected by thc^
'•eni[iany are chieliy those of sea-b(>ars, sea-otters, foxes,
lieavers, bears, lynxes, American martens, t^c., and are ]>artly
tunnshed by the subjects (»f its own teri-itory (Aleiits, iCad-
jacks, Kena'izes, Tchu^'atchi, Aljaskans), who are c(.mpelled
ti> hunt on its account, and partly oljtainecl by barter iVom
Die independent tribes of the mainland, or fioni the Hudson's
li.iy Company. The evr(>ater i)art is sent to ()(diotsk, or tin;
Amur, and from thence tlirou;^di Siberia to St, I'etersljuru- ;
till' rest to the Chinese ports, Avliere the skins of the younn"
M;t-lK'ar always find a rea<ly nuirket.
( >f all the abori<^inal tribes which inhabit the vast territory
el' Russian America, the most worthy of notice is that of the
^ 'eiits. Less fortunate than their independent relatives, the
-Hiiiinaux of the north — avIio in the midst of privations
laiutain an imperturbable o-aiety of temper — these islanders
ive been effectually spirit-brolcen undera lorei;^!! yoke, in
l^^ir, the cruel treatment of their mastei-s h.ad reduced them
1i> al)out a, thousand ; since that time their nundHr has some-
wliat in. ased, the company havin«j;-at lena'th discovered that
man is, or all, the most vahuible production of a land, and
that i population increased still further, they would S(»ou
have j|. lore hunters to supply them with furs.
Evei'^ Alciit is bound, after his eii^'hteenth year, to serve
the company llirec i/iyirx', and this ft>rced labour-tax does not
vRimP*
■Ml
TlIK 1 'OLA It \V(»Iil.l>.
seem at first sii^lit iiiunodcn'atc, but if we cojiskler that tlu'
islaiKlcrs, to whoui every foreiLCn ariiele is supplied from tlic
Avarclioiises of llio compnny, are invariably its debtors, wt'
eaiinot doubt that as loii^- as th(! Aleiit is able to hunt In-
is obli^-ed to do so for the AViii^a'S of a slave. The Jlishdp
Ivan Wenianiinow, who resided ten years at Unalasohkn.
draws a picture of this people Avhieh exhibits evident marks
of a lony servitude. They nev<>r quarrel among- each other.
and their patience is exemplary. Nothing- can surpass the
fortitude with vhich they endure pain. On the other hiiiid
they never show excessive jo}' ; it seems impossible to raise
their feelings to the pitch of delig'ht. Even after a lon^^ fast,
a child never g'rasps Avith enp^erness the proti'ered morsel, nor
does it on any occasion exhibit the mirth so natural to its
a^^e.
In hnnting' the jnarine animals the Aleiits exhibit a won-
derful skill and intrepidity. To catch the sea-otter tiicv
assemble in April or May, at an app(.»inted spot, in tluir
li^ht skin boats or baidars, and choose one of their most re-
spected chiefs for the leader of tlu; expedition, Avhich gvue-
rally munbers from lifty to a hundred boats. Such hunting'
[)arties are annually ore-anised from the Kurile Islands tn
Kadjack, and consequently extend their operations over a liin'
of 0,000 miles. On the first fine day the expedition sets out
and proceeds to a distance of about forty versts from the coast.
when the baidars form into a Iouil;' line, leaving" an interval nf
al>out 2-"')0 fathoms from Ijoat to boat, as far as a sea-otlev
diving- out of the water can be seen, so that a roAv of thivty
baidars occupies a space of from ten to twelve versts. Wlieii
the nund)er of the boats is o-reater the intervals are reduee.l,
Every man now looks upon the sea with great attention.
Nothing escapes the eye of the Aleiit; in the smallest bhu k
spot appearing" but one moment over the surface of tin'
waters, he at once recognises a sea-otter. The baidar Avlii' li
first sees the animal roAvs rapidly towards the S])ot Avhere llw
creature diA'ed, and noAV the Aleiit, holding- his oar straiu'lit
up in the air, remains motionless on tlie spot. Imnu^diately,
the AA'hole squadron is on the moA'C, and the long strai'jht
line changes into a Avid(> circle, tho centro of which is oecii-
pied by the baidar wiili (lie raised onr. The otter n<»t lieiiii;'
ciiAsi: or Tin: si;a-otti:k.
;u;^
altlo to ivmain Itm^- under wiiter roiip[)('ars, ;nul the nearest
Alt'iit immediately a-reets liim -with an arrow. This first
;ittaek is seldom mortal; very often tlie missile docs not even
ivaeli its mark, and the sea-otter instantly disappears. Aj^-ain
the oar rises from the nextbaidar; again the circle forms,
hut this time narrower than at lirst ; the fatij4'ued ottrr is
ijhli;^od to come oftener to the surface, arrows lly from all
sides, and finally the animal, killed by a mortal slu^t, or ex-
hausted by repeated wounds, falls to the share of tlu- ai-chcr
who has hit it nearest to the head. If several otters apiicar
lit the same time, the boats form as many rini^s, provided
tla.'ir nundjer be sutKciently great.
The boldest of all hunters, the Aujiits of tlie Fox Islands,
I ursue the sea-otter also in winter. If, during the summer
cjiase, the rapidity and regularity with wdiicli all the nu)ve-
iiicntsare performed, and the sure eye and aim of the archers
(•(»mmand the spectator's admiration, this winter chase
i^ives him occasion to w^onder at their courage. Dnring the
severest winter-storms the otter shelters himself on the shore
(if some small uninhabited island, or on a solitary ro(dv, and
iitter having carefully ascertained that no enemy is near coils
himself up and falls asleep. While the storm still rages,
two Aleiits approach the rock in two single baidars, from tlie
leeward. The hunter in the foremost baidar stands upright.
;l gun or a club in his hand, and waits in this position till a
\\ ave brings him near to the summit of the rock. He now
springs on hind, and while his companion tak(^s care of the
I'liidar, approaches the sleeping otter an<l shoots it oi- kills; it
with his club. AVith the assistance? of his companion who
liiis remained on the water, he springs back into his baidar
as soon as the crest of a wave brings it Avithin his rea<'h.
The sea-bear is nearly as valuable as the sea-olfer t(» Ww
I'ur eompany, as the woolly skin of the young animal is the
eiilyone of the whole seal tribe which is reckoned auK.iig the
liner i'cUry. The sea-bears are chietly killed on the ('(»nimo-
ilnve and Tribilow Islands, particularly on 8t. I'anI, wliere
tliev are hunted by a certain nunibc'r of Aleiits located there
under Uussiau superintendence. The chase begins in the
lallei' pan of September, on a cold tbggy day, wlnn uie wiutl
I'lews IVom the side wlu're the animals an- assemlilc i on ili<
.'514
TIIH rOLAR WOULD.
rocls-y shore. Tlio boldest liuiitsinon open tlio wny, then fol-
low the olck'V people iiud the cliil«lreii, and the cliief persoii-
a<4'e of the hand eonioslast, to he the better able to direct and
survey tlw movements of his men, who are all armed Avilh
clnbs. The main ol)jeet is to cut oft' the her<l as quickly as
possible from the sea. All the <^Town up males and femali's
are spared and allowed to escape, but most of the youMn-o-
animals arc sentenced to death. Those which are only foni'
months old (their furs bein"' most hig-hly ]irized) are doomed
without exception ; Avhile of the others that have attained an
age of one, two, or three years, orily the males are killed. For
several days after the massacre, the inothers swim about the
island, seeking' and loudly waiKn^ for their youn«4'.
From October 5, St. Paul is g-radually deserted by the sea-
bears, who then migrate to the soulh and reappear t( wards
the end of A[)ri], the males arriving- first. Each seeks the
same spot on the shore Avhich he occupied during the pre-
cedino- year, and lies down among the large stone blocks
with Avhich. the flat beach is covered. About the iniddle of
May the i'ar more numerous females begin to make their
appearance, and the sea-bear families take fidl possession of
Hie strand. Each nnile is the sultan of a herd of females,
varying in nundjer according to his size and strength; the
AV(>aker brethren contenting themselves with half-a-do/en.
while some of the sturdier and fiercer fellows
pr
esKle over
harems 2U<> strong. Jealousy and intrusion fre(piently gi\>'
rise to terrible battles. The full-grown male sea-bear, who
is about four or live times Lirger than the female, grows to
the len^'th of eiu'ht feet, and owes his nanie to his shaLin'v
blackish fur, and not to his disposition, which is far froju
being cruel oi' savage.
Arnn'd with a short spear a single Alciit does not hesitate
to attack the colossal whale. A]»proaching cautiously fn»ni
Ix'hind in his baidar until he reaches the head he plunges liis
weapon into th(> aninuiFs ilank, under the fore-lin, and thou
ri't reals as fast as his oar can carry him. If the spear liai
]»enetrated into the ilesh, the whale is doomed, it dies v.itliiu
the next two or three davs and the currents and the waves
drift the carcase to the nevt shore
Eacl
I s
pc
h
ar nas
If-
peculiar mark by whicdithe owner is recognised. Sometinn
WALRIS IIlXTI.Vd,
;U;
I he baiiliir tides no! cseii|>o in tiinf, and the wliale, iiUKldiMU'd
lu jiaiii, i'lirioiisly lashes the waters Avith its tail, and throws
till- baidar hi^-li up into the air, or sinks it dee[» into the
>.'a. The Avhale fishers are hij^-hly esteemed anion^^ the Aleiits,
;iii(l their intrepidity and skill well deserve the ijenoral ad-
miration. Of eonrse inany of the Avhales are lost, hi the
summer of l^'ol, 1 18 whales were wonnded near Kadjaek, of
\\ bich only forty-three were found. The others may have been
wafted far out into the sea to rejji'alo the sharks and s(\i-l)irds,
(ir driven to more distant shores, whose inhabitants no (h>ubt
;iladly welcomed their landin<j,-. Wran<^-ell informs lis, that
since lS:J;j the Russians have introduced the use of the
harpoon, and cn^'afu'ed some En«4'lish harpooners to teach the
Aleiits a more protitable method of whale-catching', but we
;ire not told how the experiment has succeeded.
The company, besides purchasiuf;- a f>reat quantity of walrus
Icetli from the Tchuktchi of tiie Behriny's Straits and
llristol Bav, send everv year a detachment of Aleiits to the
imrth coast of Aljaska, where •^■enerally a lar;^-e nund>er of
youui;' walruses, probably driven aAvay by the older ones, wh<i
[iii'ter the vicinity of the polar ice, spend the summer
iiinnths.
The walruses herd on the lowest ed^'e of the coast which is
within reach of the spri)io' tides. Wlu'u the Aleiits pi-epare
tu attack the animals, thev take leave i»f each other as if
tlicy Averc <4"oing' to face death, beino- no less afraid of the
tusks of the Avalruses than of the awkwardness of their
(i\Vl
n companions. Armed with lances and heavy axe
lliey stealthily approach the walruses, and haviuLj' disposed
llicir raidvs, suddeidy fall u[>on them with loud shouts, and
endeavour to drive them from the sea, takiuL:' cai-e tlial none
"t tlieni esca[)e into the water, as in tiiat case the rest would
ivresistibly follow and precipitate the hunlsmen alou'.;' \\itli
icni.
As soon as
thi
1
walruses Inive oeeii driven i.ir eiioii^ii
:h
11
up the strand, the Aleiits attack them with iheii' lances,
striking' at them in ]>laces Avhere the hide is not so thick, and
then pressiui;' with all their mi<^'ht a^-ainst the s[t<'ar, to ren-
der th(> wound diM.'p and deadly. The slauy'htered animals
Mnuble one over the other and form lar^-e hea[is, whilst the
huntsmen, utterin;^- furious shouts and int(txicated with
31C
TJIK rnLAIi WOHLI*.
carnage', wado throiio-h the bloody mire. Tlioy then eloavc'
tlio jaws and extract the tnslcs, which are the chief ohject^
of the shmohter of several thousand walruses, since neither
their flesh nor their fat is made use of in the colony. Th(;
carcases are left on the shore to be washed away by the
spring'-tides, which soon efface the mark of the massacre,
and in the following- year the inexhaustible north sends now
vi('tims to the coast.
Sir George Simpson, in his ' Overland Journey round tlie
World,' reiaies that the bales of fur sent to Kjachta arc
cover»Kl with Avalrus hide ; it is then made to protect the ten-
chests which iind their way to Moscoav, and after all these
wanderings, the far-travelled skin returns again to New
Archangel, wliere, cut into small pieces and stamped with the
coni[)any''s mark, it serves as a medium of exchange.
The skin of the sea-lion {Oiaria Stellcri) has but littlt,'
value in the fur trade, as its hair is short and coarse, but in
many other respects the unwieldy animal is of considerable
use to the Aleiit. Its hide serves to cover his baidar ; with
the entrails he makes his water-tight kamleika, a wide, hjng
shirt which ]ie puts on over his dress to protect himself
against the rain or tlie sprciy ; the thick webs of its flippers
furnish excellent soles for his boots, and the bristles of its
lip iigure as ornaments in his head-dress.
'r;.C St.'. I ■ ■ -HI'.
Bii elouvc
;f ol)ji'eth
'e neitlu'i"
(IV. Tin,"
y by tin.'
nassacro,
ends new
omul tlio
^c'lita ii!'(^
t the tea -
all til esc
to New
[ with tliu
but littl(.>
^e, Init ill
isitleraljli'
ar ; "with
'ide, loiii;'
t liiiusi'lf
s flipp(.'r.s
les of its
a
BB5S!^PIP
' ''^^' '•'
:■ ■■";* \
ii I i'
»;■■ '!■■
»
'",■ 1:
"^•^^^-s^s:
'/ '^j,- «y;
W>^5-
- A
■' is). —
'^i^/yj-^y.//.*-^-
WAI. Ill's lllMl'.l^
rSS'**^.-
:^=5M
^i
1
^s>¥:t»-t>
■'Zi^fr.
anmux .s ;i
toiwll !l
./
CliAPTER XXVI.
'iir: i:sii|-i.MAr\.
Mxt,
11— Cliniati' of til.' I
u'f.ri(jiis l!i(\v inhiiMt — 'I'licii' ]ili\ >-i(';il
.\l'pcai'aiu't — -'I'lirir Dros— Simw Huts — The Kayiik or tlio liaidar — Iliiut iiiii
Apparatus and "Wi-apniis — lOmiiity lu'twiTU the l\M[iiiiiiaux aiul tlif IJcd JiHliaii
—The • l!l(j(»l_v l''alls'- -(dias.M/t'tlic lu'iiulccr — I'.in! ( ':if cliin'j;— \Vl!a!.' llniitiiiLr
1l-1i tho Seal — 'J"lu' Krcp K'liituk — l!iar
-\'ai'iou.s Slratacem>-
IJiMlVl ■
tu Pa
llimiiiiijf — Walrus lluniin^' — Awaklok ami IMyouk — 'I'lio JOMjuimaux iJoir —
' i. lines and Spurts — Aiiyrl^oks — I\I(iral Character — Srlt'-rcliaiicc — Intclli^eiifi —
Ili;iiiiik — (.'unmu'ri'ial .l''aa;i'rniss ot' the l-!--4uiinaux 'I'lic'ir \'(irarity— Sl■al^on'■
it'i Distress.
F all the uncivilised iialions of the u'lobc iii»iir i'aiiL;'i' over
a w:
idor space than tlie I'siiiiimaiix. wiio.se variou.s Iril
)es
cxli'iid from (Ireeiilaiid ami Lahrailor. <'\cr all i!
le e(»
l.sl;
• '{' .\ictic America, to the Aleiilic chain and tlie extreme
lua'lh-ea.steni ^tuint of Asia. Alany are independent, others
sulijcct to the liiissian, Danish, or JJritish rule. Tn Dalliirs
hay and Lancaster Sound, tln'V accost the whale-lisher ; thev
iii'''t him in the ley Sea licyoiid l>ehrinn'\s Straits; ami while
dii'ii' most southei'lv trihes dwi'il iis low as tlie latitude of
;51H
Tin; I'oLAIi WOULD.
ViciiiiJi, others sojoir'u as lii^'li us tlio (Sotli dcn-vcc of iKtrllici'ii
latitude — and probably roam even still lii<;-liL'r on the still
nudisc(»verod coasts beyond — a nearness to the pole no otlur
race isl\iio\vn to roiieh.
The old Scandinavian settlers in Greenland expressed tlieiv
dislike tor them in the contemptuous iiium* of Sknielin^^'ers
(screamers or wretches) : the seamen of the Hudson's Buy
ships, who trade annually with thii natives of northern
Labrador and the 8ava<4'e Islands, have lony- called theia
' Seymos ' or ' Suckemos,' names evidently derived from tlif
dies of ' Seymo,' or "" Teymo,' with which they |j;Teet tlu^
arrival of the ships ; they speak »»f themselves simply as
' I unit,' or men.
W^ith few exceptions the whole of the vast rcf^aon they
inhabit lies bevond the extremest limits of forest y'rowth, in
the most destdate and inhospitable countries of the globe. 'J'lir
roug'h winds of the Polar Sea aUnost perpetually blow over
their bleak domains, and thus only a few plants of the hardiest
nature — lichens and Uiosses, g'rasses, saxifrayas, and willows —
are able to subsist there, and to afford a scanty sup[»ly ef
food to a few land animals and birds.
Ill indeed would it fare with the Esquimanx, if they wei-i-
reduced to live upon the ni<^\g'ardly jn-oduce of the soil ; bat
the sea, witJi its cetaceans and fishes, amply provides tor
their wants. Thus they are never found at any consider-
able distance from the ocean, and they line a consideraltlt'
part of the coasts of the Arctic seas without ever visitiny the
interior.
It may easily be supposed that a race Avliose eastern
brandies have for several centuries been under the influence
of the Danes and En^-lish, ^vhile in the extreme west it lias
lono- been forced to submit to Russian tyranny, and wlie.so
central and northern tribes rarely come into contact with
Europeans — nnist sbow some variety in its manners and niedc
of life, and that the same description is not applicable in all
points to the disciples of the Moravian brothers in Labrad(»r er
CJreenland, to the Greek-Catholic Aleiits, and to the far more
numerous heathen Esquimaux of continental America, or of
the vast archipelao-o beyond its northern shores. Upon tlif
whole, however, it is euviuus to obsi'rve how exaetly, amidst
i:S(illMALX TlJllJK.S.
;U!)
llOl'lllt'fll
the still
nti ollit r
sso<l llit'iv
•acUnj^'crs
iou's B;i_v
IlOVtlltTll
Ik'd tlu'iii
fn)in the
UTOot tho
simply iis
o-ioii IIh'v
^■rowtli, ill
lolje. Thr
blow owv
10 hiircliost
L willows —
supply ol'
they wtMv
soil ; h'<il
)vid(>s tor
consitler-
iisidonible
isitiug the
se o.istorii
influcuoe
vest it has
lud whose
iitact witli
mid int^l''
able in '.ill
abnidor or
le fill' luon'
•rica, or ct'
Upon thf
llv, amidst
;ill diversity <»!' timoand jdaee, tlies<! people liave preserved
unaltered their habits and manners. The broad, flat I'aee,
widest jnst below the vyi'!^^ the t'orcdioad f^enerally narrow
;iii(l tajicrino- upwards; the eyes narrow and more oi- loss ob-
lique; all indicate a mon^'ol or tartar ty])e, dill'erino- u-n^atly
iVoiii the features of the conterminous Ked Indian trilx's.
Tlirii- eouiplexion, when relieved from suKtke and dirt, also
aiiproaidies more nearly to white than that of their copprr-
cdloiu'cd neighbours. INIost of tlu^ )nen are rather under
till' laediuni Eno-lish size, but they cannot be said to l)e a.
(hvarlish race. Thus Simpson saw in Camden JJay three
llsi|niinaux who measured from live feet ten inches to six
f.i't ; and amono' the natives of Smith Strait, Kane met
with one a foot taller than himself. The females, how-
ever, are all eomparativ<dy short. The Es(piiinaux are all
leiiiarkably l»road shouldered, and thouo-h their muscles are
not so firm as those of the European seamen, yet they sur-
|iiiss in bodily stren<»'th all the other natives ()f Ameriea. In
lioth sexes tlie hands and feet are remarkal)ly small and well
roriiied. From exercise in huntino' the seal and walrus, tlu?
muscles of the arms and back are much develo})ed in the
iiieii, who are iiKtreover powerful wrestlei's. When yount;'
the Msquiiiiaux looks cheerful and <4'(»od huiuoured, and the
ti'iiiales exhibit, wdien lauo'hino-, a set of very white teeth.
Coidd they l>e indmH'd to wash their faces, many of tlu'se
sa\aL;e beauties would be found to possess a com|>lexi(ui
scarcely a shade darker than that of a deep brunette ; but
tlioueh disinclined to ablutions, for Avhicli the severitv of
llieir eUmato mav serve as an excuse, thev are far from
Jieo-lectino- the arts of the toilette.
Unlike the Hare Indian and Do"' liib fenuiles, in whom
tlio hard rule of their lords and masters has obliterated every
trace of female vanity, the Esquimaux women ta' ;.vfully ]>lait
tlioir straiii,-ht, black, aiul j^'lossy hair: and hence we may
infer tliat o-reater deference is paid to them by the men.,
Tliey alsi» o-eiierally tattoo their chin, forehead, and cheeks,
not. however, as in the South S»'a Islands, with elaborate
jiatterns, but with a few simple lines, which have a not un-
pleasiuo- t'ftV'ct.
Troni r>e1iriuL;"s Straits eastward, as far as the ^laeKcn/ie.
;j-io
Tin: I'OLAII \V()|{|,I).
tho iiialcs picroc tlio lowor Wyi near oncli iiii<4l(^ of ilio iiioiilli.
and fill the apcriiuvs with labrets ofbhic or ^Tcon <jiiiirt/, (.1
(>r ivoiy rcsemhlino; buttons. JVriiny also picrt'c Ihf s('|ttiiin
ol" tho nose, and insert a deiitiiliuni sh<'ll or ivory nt'cdlc.
fiikc the Jted Indians, they are t'ond ot'bi-iids, but their u\i<>\
eonnuon orniinient consists in strin-i's of teeth f>f the fn.\.
wolf, (»r musk-ox — sometimes many lunidreds in numlie)'
which iire either attaehed to the lower part of the jacket, ni
fastened as a Ijelt round the waist.
Their dress is admirably adapted to the severity of llieir
climate. With their two pair of breeches nnide of reindeer
or seal-skin, the outer one having' the hair outside and the
inner one next llie l)ody, and their two jackets — of which flie
U])])er one is }»rovided with a o-reat hood; with their water-
ti^Iit seal-skin boots, lined with the downy skins of birds,
and their enormous ^'loves, they bid deliance to the severest
cold, and, even in the hardest weather, pursue their occupii-
tions in the open air whenever the moon is in the sky, ny
during- tlie (h»ul)tful meridian twilie-ht. The women aiv
perfect in the artof makin»4- water-tiL?ht shirts, or' kandeikas."
of the entrails of the seal or walrus, whi(di in summer serve
to replace their heavy skin jaclcets. They also st.'w tliiif
boots so ti^'lit, that not the slie-htest wet can penetrate, and
with a neatness of which the best shoenialcer in Eurejio
mie-jit be proud. The dress of the two sexes is much alike,
the outer jacket having- a pointed slcirt before and behind,
but that of the females is a little lon^-er. The women als>
wear larger hoods, in which they carry their chihlren ; and
sometimes (as in Labrador) the inner boot has in front ;i
lone', pointed fhq), to answer the same purpose.
The Esquimaux are equally expert in tho construction el'
their huts. As soon as the lenL;'thonino' days induce tlie
tribes about Cape Bathurst and the jn(juth of the Macktnizio
to move seaward on the ice to the seal hunt, a marvcdlous
system of architecture comes into use, unknown anionic" any
other American nations. The fine pure snow has by thai
time acquired, under the action of the winds and frosts.
sutHcient coherence to form an admiralde lie-ht buildiiij^'
material, which the !'iS(|ninianx skilfully employ for 1li<'
erection id' most cond'oidable donie-shapeil houses. A ciivle
KS(il"l-MU.\ IIIT.S.
y-ji
IllOlltll.
llivt/, <'!■
Ki>|it iini
I'ir iii">t
tilt' InN.
iuiil)t'r
ickcl, <ir
of tlirir
iiiul ill''
A\'u-\\ 111"
\\' watfi'-
of 1)U''1>.
_> scvd't'^t
V (>(.'(• I unl-
it' sky, "V
)nieii iivi'
iiinloikii^-
intT serve
sew tlieif
[trato, iuiil
ncli alike,
(1 iH'liind.
)im'n ;il>^'»
Ir.'u; mill
n trout ;i
Is tirst i raced oil tlit3 ssiuootli surfiicc tif the snow, iiicl slabs
('.)• raisiu^Mlie walla out tVoiu witliiii, so iis to rleai' n s|tac'0
iluwii to tin: ice, wliieli is 1o j'oriii tlu' floor of the (IwcIHml!',
:iii(l whose evenness was previously ascertained l)y |>rol»inn\
The shihs for the dome are cut from some neiwhljoririni^'sjiot.
The creviet's l»etween the slahs are [dupned up, and the
M';lliis closed, hy tlirowiuLi" a few sliovelfuls of loose siioW
ever the j'abric. Two men e-ciierally avoi-K' lo^cther. and
\\ln'ii the ilome is completed, the oiu; within cuts a low door,
i!i:d creeps out. The walls beiiii;' only three or f<>ur inches
tliiclc. admit a very aL!;reeal)leli;4'ht, which serves foi' ordinary
liiirpi'ses ; if more is re(]uired, a window of trans[iarent ice is
1. The proiier thitdvuess of the walls is of some
iiilroducet
lllljio
riance ; one of a few inches excludes the wind, yet kei'ps
the damp so as to jnvvent drippiuL;: from the interior.
The runiiture of this crystal hut is also formed of snow (the
M;its, the table, the sleeping'-plaees), and when covered with
skins is very c(»mfortablo. By means of ante-clunubers and
l"ai]ii's, with the opening- turned to leeward, Avarmth is
iii>iuvd, and social intercourse facilitated bv contiy-uous
laiil.JiiiL;-, doors ttf comnnniication, and covered passag'os.
liy constant practice, the Esquimaux can raise such huts
;iliiin>t as quickly as we cottld pitch a tent. AVlien M'Clintoidv
I'i'i' :i lew nails hired four Es(piimaux to build a hut ibr his
}iarty. they completed it in an hour, thouyli it was 8 ft. in
(liaiacter, and 5^ ft. liiyh.
ill spit(^ of its frag'ile materials, this snow-house is durable,
f '!• tlie vvind has little effect on its domo-lilce form, and it
ivsists the thaw tuitil th(» sun
acq
uires a verv considerable
piAver. Of c(»urse a strong' fire coidd not pos-illy he mad*
witliiii. l)ut such is not needed by the Esquimaux. 'I'lu
tr
ll-o
1 lamp suffices to dry his wet clothes and boots when
returns from hunting: and the crowding of thi' inmates
''iiders a suHiciently high temperature to keep him warm.
Tug also a decided predilection for raw^ flesh and fat, he
ivijiiires no great expenditure of fuel to cook his dinner.
Tlic lower part of his dwelling- being under the surface of
I'll',
ill!
til.
-Ill)
w, lik<'wise promotes its waru'th.
I'll! of wTiatever materials the hut of the Esquiinatix may
f'Mislructed — (if snow, as i hiive just described, or, as is
•,i>-2
TllK I'OLAIi UolilJJ.
froqnciitly tlic (•use, of stones, oroartli, or drif't-woofl — t'V(.'r|-
wlicrc, i'miM iJi'lirlii^^-'H Sti'iiits to Smith Sound, it is (Mjniiily
well inl;i|iti'tl t«> the fliniiitf ;ni(l to circunistiiuccs. 'riiii>
uhcn i>v. Scoi't'.shy hin(h'<l in 1^-2 on Iht: ciisttTii const, nt
(ii'ccnhmd, ho di-sfovcrcd Homo dosi'i'tcd l']s(|uimiUi.\ huts.
wliicli ^^avt-' [H'oof both of the .sovt'rity of Iht,' (•liiiiutc, iiinl <•!
the iii;4'i'UHity evinced in eoiinti'ractint;' its rii,'<Mn\s. A hurl-
/ontiil tunnel ahout lifYeen I'oet hmy", and ho low as to I'cii.I'r
it necessary to civep throuj^h on hands and feet, opens wiih
oui' end to the soutii, and leads throu^'h the other into tin
interior <d' the hut. This rises hut little al>o\e the surln'r
of the earth, and, as it is pMierallv over;j;'ro\vn with muss <>!■
<,a'ass, is scan'ely to Ije distin^-uished from tlie nei«4'lihom'iiiu
soil. The tl(»or of the tunnel is lre((uently on a. h-vel with
that of the hut, l)ut often also it is ]na(Uj to shint dowmvarls
and ui)wards, so that the coMer, and consequently heavier,
air without is still more elfeetually ke[)t oil' trom the wai'incr
air v.ithiu ; and tinis the l']s(]uimau\', without ever liuviiii
studied physics, make a practical use of one of its fiiiiia-
moutal laws, liut their most ingenious invention is un-
questionahly tliat of the ono-soatod boat, the 'kayak,' or tlir
' baidar.* A lin'ht, lony', and narrow frame of wood, or xml
or walrus bone, is covered water-ti^ht with seal-skin, Iravinu
but one circular hole in the middle. In this the Es(]uiai!Uix
sits with outstretched I(>j4s, and binds a sack (which is iurin.il
of the intestines of the whale, or of tlie skins of yoini^' seal-.
and fits in the opening-) so tig-htly round his middle, tliat
even in a heavy sea not a drop of water can penetrate int"
the boat. Striking* with his light oar (which is padtUcil at
each extreniitv) alternatelv to the rin'lit and to the lei't. liis
spear or harpoon before him, and maintaining his equilihriuia
■with all the dexterity of a I'ope-dancev, he flies lilce an an.w
over the water ; and should a wave npsethim, he knows Imv,
to right himself by the action of the paddle. The * ouniiak.
or women's boat, likewise consists of a franiewc>rk covonil
■with seal-skins, and is roomy enough to hold ten or twolvi'
pteople, Avitli benches for the -women who row or paddK'.
The mast supports a triangular sail made of the entrails <'i
seals, and easily distended by the Avind. The men wcu]!
consider it beneath their dignity to row in one of ti)'.'^'
|i I
KSi^U l.MAIA W !•: \rn.\S.
32d
I'S. 'lliu>
iiux lints.
it»'. '.iinl <'t'
A li'ii'i-
1 to Vt'U«l'V
opens with
L'V iutu tin
lh(> surr.i''''
111 iii(i>> "1'
i.-'libouviu'j,
, level with
downwards
tlv heavi'V.
the wiirinrr
I'ver liavln.;'
f its Inii'la-
ition is uu-
•i\lc,' nr tll«'
.-(xul, ov ^^i':il
cin, l-'aviii'^'
Ksquiiuiuix
■li is iV>riii''i-l
vouu'i s^'iiIn
inuiai.-, Ili'.t'
■netvat'' lui"
s |»iul^U>'^l at
Wvv M't. lu>
se(iuilil'i'i">'^
ilce an avv'-v
e IcncNVS lu'V.-
liL' ' (K'lniaK-
Ivovlc eovciv'l
loll or twvlv-'
l,v or paiVli'''
IXQ entvaiU"^
men W"^^''^
lone of tli'-'
c, II nil (I IS Uoiils ; tliev Icavf 1 his l.ilioiir cut irrlv to tin' woummi,
wilu. to t Ih> tlli't ofil liniUotollolH Soll^'. slow! V [il'o|(i'| tin' 0(il||i;|lv
IJii'.Mi^li tin' WiitiT. ,(inl;i'iii;4- of lorci;;')! eustoms ]i\ their
iiw II. tin' l']s(|niii)aii.\ hot wi'i'ii 1 1n' M;iclo'ir/.io und ( '(ip|ii'i'iiiiiu;
rivi'i's iiiihIc the stran^'c niisliiKi', ms Sir .lohii l.'ichardsoii
nhiti's, ol' sii|i[iosiii;^' that tho Miinljsli siiiiors whom they saw
iMwin;^' in eoni[»any were wonn-ti. < )in' of them even iislicd
wlrtlii'r all white feinales jnid hejirds.
The \ve;ijM>iis oi" the IOs((iiinia ii.\, and their various lishiii;^
,Mi'l Imiitiii^' iinpleineiits, likewise show ^'reat iiiu'ciiiiity and
>kill. 'I'heii'oars ai'c tasti'fiilly inlaid wit h WiiliMis t-'el h ; t In-y
have S('\'eral kinds ol's[)ear,s or dai'ts, adajited t<i the sl/.e of
IIP' \ ai'mi
IS animals wliieh thevhunt; and their elastic 1
tows.
stvnii^i'ly houinl with string's of seal-;4'nt, drive a six-foot ari'ow
with uiu'rriiin" certainty to a distant niarlc. To hriii;.;" down a
liMnvi' animal, the shaft is armed with a sharji Hint, or a pointed
linjie; if intended to strike a hird, it is smaller, and hhinted.
I'll'' harpoons and lances nsed in killiiej,' whales or seals
have Ioul;' sliails <.)!' W(.tod or of the narvlial's toot^\ and the
havb(^(l point is so constriu-ted that, \\],.)\ the blow takes
'■tl'"!'!, it is left stickinLj in the body of the animal, while tho
siiitft attached to it liv a strinLi' is dii-en^au'ed from the socket.
Ijereiiies a buoy of wood.
d-sL
<nis.
hi
own n[) lik(
hlailtlcrs, are likewise nsed as buoys for the whalospears,
hi ill '4- adroitly stripped from the animal so that all tin'
iiatund apertures are easily made air-ti^'ht.
Willi eijual industry and skill the Es(piimanx put to uso
every part of the land and niiirine animals which tlu^y
Knives, spear-points, and tish-h(joks are nnnloof the
f the deer. The ribs of the whale are used
nil.
ciiasi
h
wuH a
ml 1
lones o
in. rodlii!;;' huts, or in the construction of sled^'cs, where
ilrift-tiiuber is scarce. Stroni^' coi'd is made tVoni strips of
~"a]-s]{iii hide, and the sinews of musk-oxen and deer fiuMiish
li(i\v-slriin4's or cord to nnike lu'ts or snares. In detanlt oi'
'h;iti-v,-eud, the b(»nes of the Avhale are employed for tln^
^^•uustrurtidii of their sledj^t^s, in pieces titted to eaidi other
with neatness, and firmly sewed to^'ether.
l)uriu<4' ■^b*' lon<:,' confinement to their huts or ' ii^doos,' in the
'lark vinter months, tlie men execnte sonu' vmy fair liij^ures
1" hdiu," and in vralrus or tV»ssil ivorv ; besides malcincj llsh-
;!-'4
Till: r<»i,.\i: woKi.n.
hooks, knifc'-liaiidlcs, und otlicr instrnmonts neatly of tlic-:
nlatorial^ or ofiucial or v.'ood.
Thus in all those respects the Esquimaux are as superior td
the lied Indians as they are in streii^'th and personal eouraL;V;
and yet no Xorwei^ian can more utterly despisi; the lilthy L;i]i}i.
and ]io orthodox jVEussulnian look d(>\vn Avith L;'reater cin-
tempt upon a '^ ^hiour,' than the L(»ueheux or Chepewavim
upon the Escpuuiaux, v.'ho in his eyes is no Letter than ;i
brute, and whom he approaches only to kill.
In his ' VoyaL'-e to the Coppermine River ' Ilearne relatois u
dreadful instance of this bloodthirsty hatred. The Indiaus
who accom])anied him havinu' heard that some Esquimaux
had erected their s\immer huts near the mouth of that river.
were at once sci/.ed with a tii'-er-like fury. Hearne, the eiilv
Tiiuropeaii of tlu.' p;ii'ty, had not the power to restrain tliia!.
aud he niiyht as wei, have attempted to touch the heart nf
an ice-l)ear as to move the murderous band to pity. Av
craflilv and noi.stdessly as serpents they drew ni^li, \[vA
when the midnight sun veru'ed on the hori/on, with u
dreadful yell they burst on the huts of their unsuspeelin-'
victims. Not one of Uiem escaped, iind the monsters deliL;'liti' 1
to prolong' the misery of their death-strugu'le by repeated
wounds. An old woman had both her eyes torn out bcfuiv
she received the mortal blow. A young- giid tied to lleai'iL'
for protection, who used every eilbrt to save her, but in vain,
In 1821 some human skulls lying on the spot still boiv
testimony to this cruel sltiughter, and the name of tli'
' Bloody Falls," given by Ilearne to the scene of the massaciv.
will convey its nu-niory to di.jtant ages.
No wonder that (he hate of the l']s(|uimaux is no 1'--
intense, and that tliey aho pur^uie the Indians, whercv.!'
they • an. with thc'r spears and arrows, like wild be;ist<.
"Year after year.' says Sir Joliu liichardson, "sees tli
Es(|uinianx on the polar coast of America occupied in i
uniform circle of jjursuits. AVhen the rivers open in si'vii...
they p:"oceed to the I'apids and falls t(» spear the salni";;.
■which at that season come swimming stream u[)wavd^. At
the same time, or earlier in more southern localities. tli>',v
hunt the reindeer, which dr(^]) their young on the eoiists ;i!"l
islands while the snow is only partially melted. Wh''''
supcviov t(i
ialc'Ourat;v;
iiltliy U[\'\'.
jroattT cdu-
Jliepowa Villi
■tter tliaii n
I'ue rcluios u
riie luiliaiis
EsqiuHuuix
of tliiit riwr.
nit', llio oiilv
>>traiu Uii-a!-
the liL'avl ' ;
to pity. A-
w lULi'li. a'.:!
izon, ^vitli ii
unsuspcL-tiiv:
iters delii^Ut.l
> In' repeatctl
>rii out I'L-foiv
lo.l to lloariL'
Ir, Imt in vai'i.
pot still boiv
lllllDO of '' '
the luiissaci'o.
,vix; is 110 K--^
tni:-, ^vllerov■.;•
[la b(>ast<.
Koli, ' ^''''^ ^
Lccii[iit''l 1" ■'
Licii in si'i'i'---
Ir tlx' sahu'"'..
n[»wav(l-^. -^
Localities, tky
1 the coasts iiM
KSQUIMAl'X \Vir.\l,i: lir.N'TS. .3.',:
i]h' opi'ii Country affoi'ds the liuntsinan no opportunity of
'h
ipjiroaelunL;' his i^'anie nnpere<:'iV(
.1, (1
('(
'Pi
>ns iirc (11
III the
siiowy ravines and superlii'ially coveretl willi siiow-tal-irts.
Til!' Avind soon effaces the traces of the human liamh and
tlius many reindeer are snared.'
ill suniiner the reindeer are killeil partly l>y drivinu' tlioni
I'lMiit islands or narrow necks of laud into tlie sea. and then
siicarinii' them from tlieir Icavaks ; and viartlv hv sh(^otii!<'-
ilii'iu tVom bi'hind hea[)S of stones riiised for the purpose <it'
watcliiHL;" Ihem, and imitatini^ their ptnadiar hollow or •^•runt.
Aiiioiin' the various artitices ^vhil•h ihey employ for this
|i;rrin»se, one of tlie most in^'eiiious consists in two ukmi
Avalkiii'4" direcllv I'ront the deer thev wish lo hill, v.lien Die
an
iuial almost alwavs follows tlnni
A
AS soon as t hev arrive
ih
a laru''' sio
ne, one of llie men hides hehind it: with hi?
• i",V,
while tlie olhor, cont inuin:>' to walk on, stton lea*ls tin
(Ifcr wiihin rann'i^ of his companioirs arrows.
The multitudes of swans, duclcs, and ^-cese resort inij^ i
o
till' iiior
is'^es <
if tl
le n(»rthern coasts io hri
d. lil.
owise an
I
ill >n[i[ilyin^- the Esquiuiau.v with I'ood during- their short
Ijiit busy summer of two months. l\»r their d.-struction a
vTv iiiu'ciiious inst I'ument has ln'cii invontt'd. Six ..r « i'dit
^luall halls niadi' of -walrus-tooth and pierced in the middle
are separately attached to as many Ihou^'S of animal sinew,
wliii-li nvo tied to^'t^ther at thi> op])osite eml. WIkmi cast
into the air the diver;i'iiiLi' balls desei'ibi> circles — like the
<pokes of a wheel — and woe to the unfortunate binl that
oniies within their reaidi.
On the coasts fre(iiKnte<l hy whales, the month of Anfrust
li Voted to the ])ir.-suit of these animals; a suceessful eliaso
i> (
^■:i>i
iriiii;' a comfortable winter to a whol (omiiiuiiifv
lieir
(-■a|iinre requires an association of labour: heii<-e aloii^^ tin.'
the I'olar Sea, the l-].-([uiiiiau.\ unite their hnts into
riiii^i ^ III
\!lla'.
W
res, t'or whose site a i>old point of coast is Li'.'iierally
■11. where the water is d.'ep enou^'h to M"at a wiiale.
It'll line ot these hiii^'i
ert^itures is seen 1 vinu' < ni the water,
'i '/■-[
I kayaks or more eau<iously [taddle up astern of him. till
llii"' the rest, conie.s ch^j^o to him on one
ii 'lu^-le canoe. prece<
•I'lirtcr, so as to eiial)le tic m ui to drive the spear into the
auiiiial with all the loi'ee of l>oth ;irms. This spear lias a
S-iO
Tin; ror.Ai! wniii.o.
\uu>j; \]\io (if tlnoiL;' and au iullatcil scal-slciu attacliOfl (n it,
The sii'icki'ii wlialc iiniiicdiiitely dives ; bdt wlion lie rt'a]^])i;ii.
al'ti'V some tinu'. all llic ('itiidcs a'jaiii ]>addl<' toAvards lijn,.
Sdiiic wavniiijx Ix'inu' <i'ivfii \>y the sciil-skiii Imoy lleatiiiL;' nn
Ihc sni't;i'-t'. I'iaeli Juan beinjj;' i'liniislicd lil\'<' llif (ivsl, llic
ropoiil till' l)l(»\v as olti'ii as tlicv tiiid an (•[)j)ov(uni1y. ti'i
jx'vliaps cVt'TV line lias Itccn thus ciiijiloycd. Ai'lt'i' cliasin:
liiin ill lliis uianncr somotinics fur lialt'a day. lie is at It'iiu'ii
so wcarioil liy tlic vi'sistanco of llio l)uoys and cxliauslrd li,
loss of lilimd as 1<> 1)0 ohlin'cd t(t vise move and iiioiv often \
t\\Q siufaee, and is (iiially killed and to\ve(l ashoi-e.
Tliou^ii in many parts seals are eaiiL;-Iit at e\ery seasciii .
the year, vet the u'reat hunt takes piaee in s^iriiiLi', \vlieii li'
j)liiy in the open lanes near tlio coasts, or come (Mil on ■]
ice to l)ask in the snn. In spite of Iheir wariness, tliev ;ij.
]io match for the Estpiimaux, who have careliilly slinii'
all I heir hnl.iiis from infancy. Souietiiiies tlu' Ininter ;ij-
proa(dies them l»y imitatiiiL;' their forms and motions .-
perf(H'tly that the po()r animals are not undeceivecl until ci)
of tl
lem is stnirk Aviih his lance; or else b\' m
cans et
Avhite screen pushed forward on a slede'(>, the hunter
within ran^'e aiM
cnilli
I iiicks out the best conditioned of th
e u;i;i'
nor
As the season draws iiear midsummer, the seals are i
iipi»roacluible ; their ey(.'s l)ein;L;" so eoiio-ested by theokirc.:
the sun. that they are sound imes nearly blind, in wiut' r
they are assauUeil \vhile workine- at their breathing'-boles, I'l
wdieu coiiiim.;' up foi' respii'aliwii.
if an l]s(piimaiix has any reason to su]»pose that a sciil i-
bnsy g-nawiiiLi' beneath the ice. he innnediately attache- liii;.-
self to the ])lace, and seldom leaves it, even in the scvciv-:
frost, till he has snccet.'ded in killiuL;' the animal. I'ertl:'-
purpose he tirst l)uilds a snow-v.all about four feet in IicIl:]:'.
to sludter him iVeni the wind, and seatiiiL;- himself nndei 'i
lee of it. deposits his s]»eai's. lines, and other inipicnu'iu-
iipoii sevei-al ]ittl(> forked sticks inserted into the siiew. ■
order to prevent the smallest n<use bein^' made in iiievii:.'
them when wanted. lint the most curious precaut ion coiism"
in tying' his own knees together with a thong so securely :!> '•'
prevent any rustling of Ins (dothes. Avhicdi miu'lit otlicrwi-
aliii'm the animal. In this sit nat ion a man will sit (|ni''tl'
SKAL lll'NT;
;ii:
?llG(l U> it,
■mhU iiitii.
l();>tinu' « 11
(ivst. I hi';
t unit v. i; ;
("1- cli-.i^iii.'
S ill Ifll'ilii
li'.iustrtl !■>
ilV dttrll i
•V si';isii!i ' '■
, wlirii ill'
out nil ;:
■ss, tlu'V ai'
illy stuilit!
hunliM- ;i! -
mntim'iS
fd luilil « '
iiH'iins «'!
ant<T CI 111!' •
of the Ir.iU'l.
Is arc iiiov"
till' glare 1 1
In Aviuti'V
iiiij,--lioles, I'l'
li;it a soul i-
Itacli'- liii."
llu' SfViMV--
il. i'"rtl:'-
■ t ill lifii;'
■If UM<l«'i' ''•'
iuiplriui'l.'.-
lu> SlinW. '
. ill llloVU'.'
ilioii coii^iivt^
<i-cun'ly !i>t"
.■lit (.tlirrW!-'
Ill sit <iiii'^^l''
si.uii'tiiiKS lor Imurs to^'t'tlii'r, attciil ivd v listriiiiiL;' to any nnis(>
jiiiidt' l»_v tilt' seal, and soiiiotiiiics usiii'.;" the ' k<M']»-kultnk '
in iinlcr to ascertain uhctlicr the animal is si ill at worlc
Ih'ldw. This sinipl'.! little iHstrnnieiil -whicli atl'ni'ds annthev
strikiiiL;' jirool'di' I'lsqniinaux iii^-ennity — is nicrelv a slender
I'dd (A' hone (as delicate as a line wire, lliat thr seal may not.
s.(' it) iiici'ly rounded, and having" a point at one I'lil. and ii
l,ii(th at tlio other. It is inserted int(» the ice, and the kiioh
rciiiainiiiii" al)oV(^ the surfaeo int'orms the lishcrman 1»y its
iiiotion whetlu-r the seal is employeil in niala'ii'^' his h(de : it'
imt, it remains nndistnid)ed. and the attempt is L;iven nj) in
lliat [dace. AVhen the hunter sujiposcs tlie hole to Im' nearly
'■ 'iiipleted, he cautiously lilts his spear i.to \v]ii( h the line
has I'eiMi ])re^■iollsly attachedi. and as mioii as the MowiiiL;' ot'
the Seal is distinctly heard -and the ice eonse(|Ueii1 !y \fiy
tliin- he drives it into liim with the lon-i' of hotli arms, and
iits away \vith his ' paiiua.' or w
lariieiied
:nili
: . reniainine' crust of ict\ to enalde him to repeal llie
Wounds, and e-,>t him out. The • neitulc " , jiIiu'-o ln\j>i(I<i),
ruu'u'liiiL;'. <dlhi'i' >imply
irjll
<j: tlie smallest seal, is ludd while si
ly Jiaiid. or ]>y ]>utting' the line round a sjiear with the point
;1uck into the ice. For the " o^-uke ' { jilmrn Imrli'ihiK the
lilic is
]iassed round tlie man's le^ or ai'iu : and lor a ualr
us.
reiuid his hody, his I'eet heiun' ''^ ''"' •'^ame time lirmly set
against a hummock' of ice. in which ]iositioii these people
can. iVoiii hahit, hold a^'ainst a very heavy strain. A boy of
tiltei'u is (Mjual to the kiliiuo' (A' a ' neituk," hut it re(|uir(;s a
fill-^rowu person to master idther (»f the lar;^'er animals.
This spoi't is not Avithout tlie daiio'er \vhi<di add> to the e.v-
ciieiiieiit of success, particularly if the creaiur<' .->tru<dv l>y the
Imiiter he a lare'e seal or walrus; for woe hetide him if
li;. I 'l'"''"^ i"»t instantly plant his feet lirmly in tln' ice, mid ihr
ow
liiiiiselfin such a [losilioii. that the strain on the line is as
ly as [tossible brou<4'ht into the direct ion df* the len'_;t h of
lle;ir
lie S
I'iiie of his ba<d\, and axis (f his lower limbs. A trans-
vi'sse pull from one (d' these jiowerful auimals would double
liiiii up across the air-lnde, and perhaps In-eak his baidc ; oi-
it ill..' opeuine- l)e larov, as it often is when the spriiiL^- is ad-
vaii'cd. he would be di'ati'e'ed under \vater and drowned.
As till- Pillar b>>ar is as irreat a seal-li'infer as the
HP
SJs
■riii: I'ni.MJ woijij*.
li !
E.s(|iiiiiiiin\, (iiic of ilic itsiiiil ]ii('11i(m1s oinplovcil liy 1111'
latter to cjilch those Ix'iirs is ti> iiiiiinlc ilie motions of l!ii
sc;ii l»y iviiiii' (l;i1 on tl:o ice until the beiii" ii jij-roiiciies suilici-
enlly near to (Misure :i ^'ood aim: but a i^-un is necessary 1-'
|)raeiise iliis 8trutai4'em Avilli success. Seeman (' Yoya^-e o!'
Ihe Tlei'al(l') mentions anotlier in;4'(Miious mode of capturiiu:
tin' l)ear by ialsiny" advantai^^o of the well-lcnown voracity of
Ihe animal, Avhich ^•enerally swallows its food Avitliont niiiil!
rnasticatio]). A tliick and stronu' })i(M'e of whalebone, abnii;
four inches l)road and two feet loni;', is rolled u\) into a siiinll
compass, and carefully enveloped in blubber, forming;' a rounii
ball. It is llien pl;u*ed in the o])en air at a low temp»era1iir.-.
"wliere it soon he(/onies hard and fi-o/.en. Tlie nati\es. anii'i]
with their knivt s, l.iowsau arrows, toLi'etlier with this IVeZ'ii
bait, proceed in quest of the bear. .\s Si»on as the aniiniil i>
seen, one of the natives disebarL;-os an arrow at it: tli''
monster, smartini^ from tin's assault, chases the part}". iLeii
i'l fidl retreat, until, me 'tiiiL;' with the frozen blul)ber droiipoJ
in his ]);irli, he j^reedily swallows it, and continnos the pur-
suit — doubtless fancyin;^- .hat there nmst he more where tlint
came iron). The natural heat of the body soon cansi's tln'
blul)ber to thaw, when the Avhalebone, tlms freed, s[)vii!L;s
l)ack, and fri<j;'ht fully lact^rates tlie stomach. The writliin^'
brute Jails down in hel[»less a^'ony, and the Esf|niiiiiiUN.
hurryiuL!,' to the sjiot. soon put an end to his sutl'erin^'s.
The Esqnimaux of Smith .Sound hunt the hear witli tlir
assistance of their do^'s, which are carefullv trained not tn
ouLi-an'e in contest with the bear, but to retard his Jli^li!,
AVhile one engrosses iiis attcmtion ahead, a second attack-
him in the ri^ar, always alert, and each protecting the oil'cr:
and thus it rarely hapjiens that tlnw are seriously injuretl. oi'
that they fail to delay the animal until their masters ceiiii'
lip. Ifthen^be two hunters, the bear is hilled easily: I* r
one mak<'s a feint of thrusting a s|)ear at theri^jht side. iii.iK
iis tlie animal turns, with his arms towards tiic tlireatciiol
attack, the left is uujirotected. and receives the death-ueiunl.
Hut if the hunter is alone, he :^rasps the lance th'mly in iii>
hands, and provokes the animal to ]»ursue hnu liy nie :
rapidly acn.ss its path, and then riuming as if to > mi;" .
But hardly is its long, nnwiiddy body c\t<'nded for the ch'
,.'**^
WAF-nr- iir.vTixc
n:f>
than, with :i riij»!il jiiiii[), the liiiiiicr (loiil;!cs on liistrack. and
i-;iii> i)a<
k towanis his iirst ]iositi(>ii. 'I'ln' l>"ar is in tli
I' acL,
(.(' turniuL;' at'tt'i' Iiini a>^aiii, wlicii llie lance is jilnn^'cd into
ilic left side l)cli)\v lli(> sliouldt-r. So dcxtci'ousl y lias thi.s
thrust 1i> be niadi', that an un|>rartis('(l hunlt'i- has dftcn to
!• arc his s[i(Mr in the side of his [H'cv, and run for his life ;
Kilt cvrn then, if wi'll aided l>_v the do:.;s. a cool, skilfid :.ian
bi'Uloni fails to kill his advcrs iry.
^Vhill' tlie sciil, ]iar\vlial, and while -whale furnish the
staiile food of the more southern ( Jreeidandei', the walrus is
till' chief resource of the Smith Sound Ks(]riiniaux. 'J"he
manner of hunting" this animal (h>|)ends much on the season
<'f the year, in sj)rin<i-, or the breeding" season, -when the
Malrus is in his i^'lory, he is talcen in two wavs. Somctimej^
' has risen by tlie side of an iccber;^', where t)),' (-urreiits have
Avoi'ii away the iloe, or thr(!U'_;h a tide ciMck', and. enJoyhiL,'
tlic sunshine too Ioiil;-, finds his n'ticat cut(tfVby the fi'cc/inu-
ii[i (if the ojeninu" : h'r, like the seal, the ^\•all•us can only woi'k
iVem l)clow at his lire!'lhin''--ho]e. ^Vhell tl
lus cai
iLiht. tii(.
i, ^i|Mimau:\, who with k'een Iiunter-crafi are scouring' the floes,
sr.Mit him out l>y their do;u's, and s[>(.'ar liim. I'^reijUeully the
i' male and her calf, aci'ompanied ]>y the u'rim-visae'ed father,
iiiv seiMi siiru'inu', in loviu;;- trios, from crack to crack, and sjiort-
iii'i iii the o|)enine's. While thus on their t^nr, they invite thcdi-
vi:;ila,it enemies t(» the second method of captui'e. This also
is by the lance iind ha]"j)oou ; b-ut it ol'ten Ixcomes a i-e^'ular
h;itil(', the niak' <^'ariantly fiontinL;' the assault, and (diarein^-
the huntt^rs with furious bravery. In the fall, when the
]iiek is but jiartiallv (do^i-d, the walrus are found in mmdH'rs,
li;iaL;'inii' around the neutral reuion of mixed ice and water.
aiiit
us this becomes solid vvith the ad\ance of winter, 1
I i||< >\V'
iiii it more and UK-re to tlie soulh.
'She Escjuimaux at this sea-^on aji[»i"oae]i tle'in o\ei- thi.>
veun^' ice. and assail them in cra(dcs an. I holes with l!ar[.oon
«iid line. This Ushers, a> the seaxui ^rows colder. <hirkei-,
iim
1 more ti-ntjw'sinous. is fearfidly hazardous. Kane ri'|;i
les
luring' a tune of fandne. two ot
luimaex frien
Awaklok and ^lyouk. determined to seek tiie walrus on {!;•
cjien ice. Thoy suect'ed.'d in killinu' a lare-o male, and wen
I'Uu'nine" to their villa;.''*', when a nortli wind broke up tin
HoO
Tin: I'oi.AU woiii.i).
ic'O, Jiiid llicy Inuinl I li('iiis('lv<'S iillniit. Tlio inipiilso of n
EuvopciUl AV.iiiM have hccn to seek the lilinl ; but tlu'V kurw
tliiit tlio drift AViis iilwiiys iiutst diiii^'crous on (ho coiist, iiihI
nro'cd tlit'ir doo's towards tlio nearest ic'L'l)erii". Tlu'V rcncdu'd
it aft(}r a strnu'u'li', and, l)y ^I'fat cH'orts, nnnlc ^-ood tlicir
Lindin;^', with their do^'s and the litilf-bnteliered carcase ol'
the wiilrns. It was at the cl(»se of the Isist nioonliu'lif (>{'
December, and a complete darkness S('lth'd around tlinii.
Tliey tied the dop's down to knol>s of ice, to prevent tlicir
losino- tlieir foot-bold, and ])rostra1i'd themselves, to escape
boinji; blown olf by the violence of the wind. At tirst the st'ii
broke over tliein. but they u'aincd a hi^-hcr level, and built a
sort of screen of ice. On the lifth ni^ht afterwaids. so fiii'
as they could jud^e, one of Myouk's I'eet was iVo/en, and
Awakh)k lost his j>'reat toe bv l'rost-bi(e. Lut Ihev did nnj
lose couraii'e, and ate their walrus-meat as they floated slowly
to the sonlh. Ft was towards the close of the second mridi)-
L'<4'lit, after a month's inqa-isonment. such as only these ireii
men could eudui-e. that they found the ber^' had o-rounded.
They liberated their don's as soon as the youni^' ice couM
bear their wei^'ht, and albndiiuL;' loni4' lines to them, whidi
they cut from the hide of Ihe dead walrus, they succeeded in
lianlino' themselves throui^'h the Avater space uhich always
surrounds an iceberp'. and reaidiiuL;' safe Ivc. They returned
to their \illa<^'0 like men laised from the dt-ad, to nn'ct ;i
welcoiii l»ut to meet famine alonn' with it.
In till' form of their bodies, their short priidved cars, thick
furry coat, and bushy tail, the d(»y's of the Escpiinniux so
nearly resemble tlie W(dl' of these re^i.»ns, that when e. ;i
lie-ht or brindled c(dour, they may easily at a little distance
be mistaken for that anima! : hnt an eye accustomed 1i>
both, })erceives that the wolf always kee])S his head dewii
and his tail l)etw.'cn his le^'s in ruuniuL;'. Avhereas tin'
doii's ahnost always carry their tails handsonielv cmdcd
over the bacdc. Their haii in the winter is from three te
four inches lono- ; but, besides this, nature furnishes tin la
durin<4- this riy-orous sea-on with a thick under-coatin;;' et'
close, soft w(.>ol, Avhich enables them to brave the must
inclement weather. 'J'hey do not bark, but have a Iohl;'.
melancholv howl, like that of th(> wolf. When di-awiiu:' -^
K.^QriMAr.V DOii
331
ilsc (tf ;i
it'V kllrw
:)ust, iiii'l
■ rcnclinl
Hh\ llll'il'
Livcaso III'
iiliii'lit ut'
out tlifir
to OSt'illM>
st tlio 8e;i
1(1 built a
.•(Is, so far
ozc:'!!, aii'l
V (li<l ii"t
tod sldwly
iiul llU'dll-
tliose iron
oTOnUtlril.
ice eoiiM
I'll), -wliicli
(■('('(led ill
1 ulwavs
i-L'tuniod
i» inr'i.'t a
ars. 1]ii'-k
iiiiaux so
.lii'ii <'i' a
distance
;1(iiiifil I0
•1(1 (ioWll
■ivas di''
ly I'url"'!
llllVL^ to
,liL'S tliiin
:'()atiu'_;' "t
the niii>t
Irawin'.r a
>1''(1'_;'.\ tlii'V liavi' a sii)ij)l(' liariK'ss mC ilfov ov seal-skin
uoiii:;' rouinl llic iiccK' li_v cin' luLilit. and anotln r for cafh nf
Ilu> fV>ro-l('Li's. will) a siniile iIioiil;" li'adinu' <i\im' the itacjc,
ami aKai'lii'd to llio slcdii'i' as a traci^ Tliiiu>4'li llicy a]i-
mnir at lirst siii'lit to 'ic Iniildli'il lo'i'oincr williont rc-'ard
to rcu'idarity, c'onsitl(.'rubl(^ attrnlion is really j>aid to their
;ii'i'an'_:'t'nient . parlicnlarly in llie sejeelion oi' a <I<il;' ot' pecn-
liar s[drit and sa^'acdly, who is allowed li_v a lon'.^'<'r liMei> to
ja'ccedt.' the re.-.t as header, and in whom, in luniine' io lh(»
rio'lit or left, the driver usually ad(li'L'ss(_'S liinisejl", usino-
(•I
■rtain words as the carters do will
1 u.-
tl
o tlieso a QV»o(
1
lender attends Avith adunrahle precision v<'S[>t'ciall_v if his own
iianie 1»(' vepeatetl ai the sanii' linie>. |o(d\iu<j; hidnnd over his
shoulder with e'rcal earnestness, as if listeinn^' to the dii'cc-
tions of the drive]-, w ho sit s (piite low on 1 he Ibre-pai't of the
slcd^-i", his "wliiji in hand, ami his feet overhaiiL;'ii!;^' the snow
on one side.
( )ii rnULi'h e'i'(,niid, as aniom,;' hnmmocdsS ni' ico, the sled^'o
would be fr('([uently overtnrneij if the driver did not repeatedly
Li'ct off. and by lifting- oi- diMwiiiLi' it lo one side, steer it clear
of those (d)staeles. Al all times, indeed, except on a smooth
and well-math^ road. Ix' is pretty constant 'y emphiyeil thus
Asith his feet, and this, tou'ether with his never-ceasing' voci-
ferations and frequent use of the whip, renders the drivine- of
one of these V(dii(des by no means a ]ilrasant or easy task.
'The whip,' says Kane, wdio from assiduous pi'actice at
leiiu'th attained a considerable iiroiiciency in its use. ' is six
yards lonu'. and the handle hut sixteen imdics— a short lev(_'r
to t'nrow out suidi a len'atlM)f seal hide, r.eai'u to do it. how-
e\,'r. with a nni'^ierly sweep, oi- e|,-:c mahc np yoiir nund to
fui-eoo (h'ivine- slede-es ; for the do^v^s nre uiiidcd solely by the
la-h, ami yon must be able to hit not only any jiarlicular doe-
old of a team of twehe. hut In ai'ciimpany the fat also with
a resoundine- crack. Aftt'r this you llnd thai to '_''''t ynur lash
hack inv(dves an(^ther dittieulty : for it is apt to eiitan-b' itsejt"
aniiJiiu' ill,, (hi^'s and lines, or to fasten ilsell' cinniin^'lv round
hits of i
ce, so as
to drae' \ou head over hinds iido the sni
iw
The secret bv which this com])licated set (jf reijuirements is
I'nilllled consists in propei'ly deseribine- an arc from the
>hoidder with a stilVtdbnw. e-iviue"tl)e jerk to the w hiu-hamlle
a;i2
Tin; I'oi.AU w'oiiij).
iVoui llic li.Mnl iitiil wr'iM nlniic. Tlic lusli ii-jiils ln'liiiid ;is ymi
tniv.'l. mill wlicii IliiMw II I'lii-wiird is iillnwcd tiicxlcnd ilsrU'
\vitli(nif III) cllort to l)riii^' it l»;ick. Von unit juit initly jil'tcr
j;'ivin;4' tlic project il.' iiii|tiilsc until it iiuwiiids its sl<»\v li.'ii^'tli,
ri'iidu's tlicciiil (if its tctlii')', iind criudcs to tell you tluit it is
lit its J.dinicy's end. Such ii cnudv <ui tlu' car or fore-loot of
uii iiiii'ortuuiite doi;' is si^'iialised Ity a howl (luilo uniiiisLakc-
iil)lo in its ini])ort.'
T!u! inert) labour of usinu,' this whip is such that the l^s-
f[uiniaux traA'ol iu couples, ou(? sled^-e after the other. 'J'he
hindt'r do<i's follow mechanically, aud thus require uo ^\■\l\\> ;
au<l the drivers chan^'e about so as to rest each other.
In the sunuuev, when the absence of snow prevents the use
of slede-es, the doL^s are still niadi! usei'iil, on journeys and
huutine' excursions, by beinLj- eni[doyeil io carry burdens in
a hind of saddle-1)ae\s laid across their shoulders. A stout
dog" thus accoutred will acconi])auy his uuister laden with a
"weig'ht of about twenty or twenty-live ])ounds.
The scent of the Estpuniaux doi>< is excellent, and this ]uyi-
porty is turm-d to account in tindiuL;' the seal-holes, Avhicli
they will discover entirely by the smell at a very g'reat <lis-
tancc. The track of a. siiig-le deer upon the snow Avill in lik(^
manner st.'t them oil' at a full gallo]^ at least a quarter of a
mile before thev arrive at it, and with the same alacrity thev
pur
'sue
the 1
lear or tin' musk-ox. Indeed, the c>idv aninia
Avhich they are not ea^'er to chase is the wolf, of Avhich they
seem to have an instinctive dread, giving" notice at night of
their apprctach io the huts by a loud and continued howl.
In spite of their invaluable services they are treated uilli
great severity by their masters, avIio never caress them, and.
indeed, scarcely ever take any notice of them excep>t to punl>Ii
them. But, notwitjistanding this rough treatment, the at-
tachment of the dogs to their mastei's is very great, and this
they display, a ft era short abseiu'e, by jiunping up and licking
their faces all over with extreme delight.
It may be supjiosed that among so cheerful a people as tlu'
Esquimaux there are many games or s]>oi"ts pract ised. < *ne el
tl
leir exluitit ions co
iisists ill making hideous fac(,'S l)y drawinu'
Loth lips into the mouth, poking h)rward the chin, squinting
frightfullv, occasionally shutting one eye, and moving the
head fi
oin
tn side, as if the nock hnd been dislocntod,
i:-^(iii.MAr.\ si'oiM's.
■.\:]:\
;1S ynll
y iil'tcr
at it ir^
.foot ol'
istak*!-
;. Tho
) Avliip ;
the lis.'
oys ill 111
L'dciis ill
A stout
1 Avitli a
:his pvn-
fJ, Avllirll
vat (lis-
1 in lilo'
•tci- of a
.•it y tilt 'V
iuiiuial
lich Xht'V
IlllLi'llt ot
lidwl.
lied uilli
'111. aii<l.
|() ii\iui>li
the at-
1 this
IIK
lickiii:;
ili^ as tui'
(liio of
hlniwinu'
uintin<'
iT.iir
AtiKih.'r [M-i InniiaiH'c f(iii>,Is(s in repent iiii,' CH-rtain ^\. 'T'Is
with ii L;uttiiriil tmii' rest'iiiMiiiM' veiitriloiinisin. stariii";' at tlie
-iiuie time ill such ii iiiaiiiier as [n make their I'vrs apid-ai
;'i'a(
Iv ti» hurst out cf their
«jcl\ei S
Wlill t lie e.\( rl Kill.
w ( I (ir
iiini'c will siiiiieliiiies staml uji face to (ai'e, an 1. with L^i'eat
i[iiickiiess and i-en'iilariiy, res[i(iii(l to each othei'. l^ee|lil!^• ^ueh
exaet time tliat the s(»iiii(l appears to come rroiii <iiie throat
instead of several. TlieN' are i'oiid of music, holh vocal and
instrumental, but their siiiL;'inL;' is not jmudi better lluui a
Im\V
T!ie Es(|uiniaux ha\'0 iieil her magistrates iior la\v>. yet tliey
[ire o
rderlv in their eoiKlnct towards each other. The c
oll-
sli
iitioii of t heir society j ■! patriarchal, but there is no rero;.
ni
t ion (/f masterr^hi]) e.X' ''I't su
ell as may oi
e claimed by supi'rioi
pi'invess. The rule ol'tiie head ol' a family lasts only as hm
as
he h:
IS viu'our enoiiu'li to serure siu-eess in huiitiii'''
W
leli
his iiowers of mind and liody are impaired liy a;.i-e, he at once
>iii1;s ill the social scale, associates wit h the women, a nd takes
eal ill the oomiak. Tliev rarelv (luarrcd amoim- them-
HIS s
Selves, and settle their disjtutes either l)y boxing', the j)arties
sittiiu;' down and strikinn* bloAvs alternately, until one of t hem
ui\es in; or before a court of honour, where, after the accuser
;iad the at-ciised have I'ichlv abused and ridiculed each other,
the ease is decided by tlie jiriests or ' an^'ekoks.' These
v.oiider-woi'kers, wJio enjoy a lireat reputation as sorcerers,
• Mithsayers, or niedicine-men, employ ventriloquism, swallow
ki.ives, extract stuiiesfrom various ])arts of tbeir bodies, and
u<e other deceptions te» impress their du]»es with a hi'^li
e|iinion of tiieir supernatural ])OAveis. Jake the members (d'
I'iie li'anied [irufessions elsewhere. tlu'V Inn'e a certain lan-
yuaji'e or j'arL;()n of their own, in which they communicate
with ea(di otiier. The heathen lilsipiimaux do not ajipeai*
t'> have any itlea of the existeuci' of one Sujireme lUin^',
hul I)elieve in a number of sj)irits, with wln.m on cei'iain
occasions the anu't'koks pretend to lioM mysterious inter-
course. J']ven in ( >ld ( Ireenland tin.' iidluenci' and t.achinys
of iho niissi(»naries liave not entirely of»lilerat.'<l the old
snnerslitions, and th.e mysteries of tbe aii^'eko'c, though not
d near tlie T^auish settleimuits, still li<jl<l
eiieiilv recoLi'ins(
iieir secret [><iwer over many a miti\e wdio is professedly a
* iiri^-tiau.
am
Till; I'nI.AlJ UoUi.K.
( 'iipdiiii Hull lii'^lily \>r
ll'i'S
111
:'( M M
liiiit lire (tf I 111' Ms(|iii-
II
Let
liiux ; l)iil ill llicir l)rli;i\ umr t<i the oM aii'l iiilinii tln'v
niy lilt' iii^ciisilMlIly. or r;it!i('i' inhiiiiianily, cnniiiKHilv
found iuuoiij^' SiiViiLi'c uiitioiis, iVc(|ii('inly iil)iiii(li>iiiii;4' tliciii t«j
their I'ilte Oil their joiinievs, iiiid iillowiil'.;' ihciii 1i> ]ii'i'ish ill
tl
le \vil<leniess.
Am(»li;4"1 lieu I selves ''ri^i'lilqiok* (he is ;i t liiel'j is ;i Icnii of ic-
pntiich, hut they stciil without scrujile from striin'4'"rs, mid :ire
not iishiiuicd \vh(Mi dell 'ft cd, nor (h» j hey hliish Avlidi rt'proveil.
Parry tuxes them with Av;iiit of ^iMlit mle ; iiinl tllo||^il tlu^y
liiive no douht rendci'ed '^ood ser\ ii-cs to ni;iny <if our Aretic
naviu'jitors, vet .somcl inirs, when thi'\' tiiiicici! tlicnisrlvs
the
inurih;!' the strauLicrs. iiinl thrir '_;ood hi'lia\ioiir can only h
relied upon as l(»ni;' as there is the jiower of euforcini;" it.
(_)ue of the most amiahje traits <<i' their eharaeter is tli
roiiLier i)artv, Ihev have not hesitateil to attaekort<
kindness with which thev U-cni their children. \vh<
>se
Mlt!
uess and docility are sin-li as to occasion their parents little
tronhle, and to render severity towar<ls them (|uite nnn"ces-
yarv. liVeii from their earliest infancv the\- iiossess thiit
quiet dis]»ositiou, L;'eiitli'ness <if demeanour, and uncoinniou
evenness of tein[ier, for w hich. in mature a^'e. t h.ey are for the
most part distin<j;'uished. 'They are just as fond (tf \>h
\y.
8a vs
V
ii'rv,
IS any other youuj;' people, ant
1
he san:
kind, only that while an En<4'lish cliild draws a eart of wood,
an Esquimaux of the same ix'^a has a sledi^'o of Avhalehone.
andior the snperl) hahy-lionse of the former, the latter hnilds
a miniature hut of snow, tind beta's a, liju'lited wiek from liev
mother's lani}) to illuminate the little dwelliui^-.'
by t
len not mo
re than ei^'ld rears old. the boys are ti
neir
fitl
lers o
n th
.1
leir seaimi'' exeursums, wlnn'c
h
tl
lev
begin to learn their future liusinoss ; and even at tliat early
aye they are oceasionally entrusted to brini;' lionit? a sledyo
and dou's from a distanee (if several miles over the ice. At the
a!.';e of eleven we see a boy with his water-tiyht hoots, a spear
in his hand, and a snndl eoil of line at his back, aeeompanyiiiLf
the men to the lishery under every eireumst;niee ; and frcnu
this time his serviees daily increase in value to the wdiole tribe.
In intellii.';enec and susceptibility of civilisation the Esqni-
manx are far superior to the neighbouring' India
ns.
Tl
ie\
i:S(il l.\l \l \ MM
• »i
iiuiily
I'Ui to
ish in
(>[' rt'-
h Ihoy
Arctic
k or 1"
(iiily b'"
it.
• is til.'
o'cntl"-
ts litll'.'
iimcHn's-
,»ss tluit
omnittii
L' i'or tlit!
f play.'
(> s-.nii"
it' >voo'!,
llfljiMli'.
■r biiili.U
tilk'Ml
it early
h sloAye
a sju'iii
niaiiyiii'j;
I lid iV«'Hi
,le ivil't'-
Esqui-
iiavi.' siu'h a i;(>imI id^a dl' ili(> liydrMn-rajiliN and hi-ariii^-; <>|'
1 hr SI -a i-oasts which (hey f'r '(Hifiit as tit diMW acciiralc ciiai'ts
Ml'thi'iii. Thus I'arry, in his si'duid voya'.;'!'. was i.;iiidi'(l in Ids
.. I II Tat ions hy the slvi-trln's id tin' talent rd I liL^liuk : and wdiih'
|!ii'(dii'y \vas at Kot/rlaic Smuid, Ihc natives cnnslructrd a,
iliai't iif* the coast U|»on t he sand, lirst inarkiii'^' out liie roast-
line with a, stiidc, and reyidatiii^- the distance hy the day's
v. Tlie hills and rani^'es of nioiiiitains were ne.xt sin iwii
Miirm
liV ell
■vations of sand or stone, and the islands represrided hy
iieajis (d' |»el>hles, their ]iro|>orl ions hein^- duly attended to.
When the monntains and islands were ei-eeted, the \iliaL;'es
and Hshiny'-slations were niai'ked hy a immhi-r of slieks
jilaeed u]>riLi'hi, in imitation of those which are [mt up on (he
t wherever these jteople fix their ahode. In this in, inner
!ii[tlete liydrou-ra[>hical plan was drawn from ('ai»e Derhy
reas
,1 cu
rial
to t'a[)e Krusenstern.
The Esquimanx liavc a deidded predilection for commer-
piu'suits, and undertake Ioiil;' voyages for the purpos.'s
of trade. ^I'lius (.)n tlie contineidal line of coast, west of the
Mackenzie, the Point Burrow Esquimaux proceed every
smamerwith sled^^'es laden with Avliale or si.-al oil, wlialehom-,
walrus tuslcs, thoni^'s of Avaiiais hide, and seal skins, tnthe
("ulvillo River, m here tlu'v nieel the I'lMiuiniaux from l\o[yCe!ait^
Suiiiid. wlio offer them in exidiaicje artirles jdoeiired from
the Tchulctchi in the jtrevious sumnier, such as iron mid
cupper kidtles, knives, tobacco, beads, and tin for maK•in^^
]iipes. About ten (htys are spent in l)avteriiiL;-, (hineiiiM-,
and ri'Veh'y, on the flat <4round between the tents of oarh
]iarty, pilelied a bow-shot apart. The time is one of [>Ieasant
excitement, and is jiassed nearly ■without s]eo[i. Aiiout.
Julv liO this friendly nu'etim'" is at an end : i\\v K'ol/.ebue
Sound Esquimanx ascend the C'olville on theii' v,ay hnme-
Marils. while those from I'oinI HariMw (h'seriid to llie sea, to
pursue thidr voya^'e eastward to Jjarter Ju'ef, whei-e they
ehtaiii in trafVic from the eastmai I'iSipiimaiix \arious skins,
>tnia' laiujis. EiiLi'li'^h kniv<'S, small white beads, and lately
Li'uus and ammnnition, ■wliich, in the year followinL^ they
cxchaiie-e for the Kotzebne Sound ai'tiides ai the Colville.
aleii^' witli tlie produce (>f their own sea hunts.
In this manner, articles of Kussian jnanufacture, (.'ri'-inalh-
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0
I.I
":SM IIM
m
|36
22
12.0
1.8
1.25 1.4
1.6
^ 6" -
►
v:
i9
ep.
/a
.^
^h
•% ^e:
V> c%„
9.
<i
o
7
//a
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
s.
^^
4.
\
\
^<b
V
6^
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER. NY 14580
(716) 872-4503
&,
:<'«*
W^,
Q-
3.J6
THK I'OI-AR WOULD.
purcluisod lit the fair of Ostrownojo by tlio Tchuktchi, or
frojii the factors of tlie Rnssian Fur t.'oiiiitaii}' on Sled^ft'
Ishiiul ill Bthriiio-'s Strait, find their Avav from tribe to tribe
ulon«jr the Anierieaii coast as far as Repulse Ba}', aiul coniitelc
anion;^the tribes of the ]\Iackenzie with articles from Sheliiekl
or ]Jirmin<Tham.
A hunter's life is always precarious — a constant alternati«iii
between abundance and want; and though the Esquimaux
strikes many a seal, white-iish, or wah'us in the course of
the year, yet these animals do not abound at allseas(»ns, and
there are other causes, besides improvidence, which soon ex-
haust the stores laid by in times of abundance. Active
exercise and constant exposiu-e to cold are renuirkalde pro-
moters of atomic clmny^e in the human body, and a very
lari^e »up[ily of f tod is absolutely necessary to C(»uuterbalaii(.i'
the etl'ects of a rajtid organic cond)Ustion. As a matter ut'
curiosity, Parry once tried how much an Esquimaux lal
would, if freely su[)plied, consume in the com-se of a day.
The undermentioned artick's were weighed before beiii;,'
given to him : he was twenty hours in getting through them,
and cc.iainly did not consider the quantity extraordinary.
Stji-liursi' lloli, li.'iiil frozen . . .
,. ,. I'uilnl ....
Bifiul ;inJ brciul-tlust ....
Total of solids ID
•1
■1
■I
1
1
12
Thr fluiils wcro in fair I'rojioriion, viz. rich lmmvv soup. 1] pint ; raw spirit, 3
winr plasMS ; st roiiu' ;,'1nv. 1 tuiiiMiT: waliT, 1 gallon, 1 pint.*
Kane averages the Esquimaux ration in a season of pk-uty
at eight or ten pounds a,-day, with stmp and water to l!io
extent of half a gallon, and finds in this excessive consump-
tion — which is rather a necessity (..f their peculiar life ami
organisation than the result of gluttony — the true explana-
tion of the scarcity from which they frequently suffer, lu
times of abundance they hunt indomitably without the h>-^
of a day, and stow away large quantities of meat. An ex-
* L'aptain llall. who in Iuh search after tln' remains of the i''ranklin e.xpeilitinii
lias now spin! several years among the lOsijtiimaux, has so tar aetjuireil tl.iir
appiiili' tliat he is able to eonsniiie 9 lbs. of meal a diiy without any iai'U-
VeaieUOe.
r.\. MINKS.
837
jktclii, or
to tril-H'
II 8hollii'Ul
iltovnatliiu
ti^squiiuaux
1 euurso <>f
.'llSOllS, tlll'l
h soon ox-
•o. Active
rkublo i>ro-
LUltl a VLTV
uterbalaui.i'
a iiuittrr uf
iiinuiux lal
o of a »l;ty.
L't'ore behiu'
:"c)U<4'li tlieiiu
orcUuavy.
11/..
ciiviition is made citlior on tlio main-land — or. what is ])n»-
li ir»'(l, on an island inacerssiblo to t'oxos — and tho tiosh is
.ot;iik«'d inside and eoveivil with lioavv atones. One snoh
oiulie, which Kane met on a small island, contained th«» flesh
(if ten walrus, and he knew (»f others equally larjje. But l»y
their iincient custom, all share with all ; and as they mi<^rato
ill iinnibers as their necessities ])rom]>t, the tax on each par-
ticular settlement is n(>t seldom so exci'ssive, that even con-
siderable stores are unable to withstand the drain, and soon
make way for i»inchin<f hun;j;er, and even famine.
-•*s?w
VilW SipUM-, •)
jU ;.'<il .vhal.
on of plenty
ater to tlio
e consunip-
liar lite an.l
[lie explaua-
^ulVer. Ill
lout the less
it. An e.K-
iklin i\\<
,1 ihoir
mt Miiv nu'"ii-
:^i&^i
"•^«»^»4t«l-»a8'?"-«ii;
Hudson's Bav Post.
CllArTER XXVI I.
TIIF. FIR THADK OT TIIK HlDSOX's l!AY TKHRITOHIFS.
Tlif C'liiipcur ilt> I'nis Till- Viiv.'i^'cur — Till' I'irdi-liai'k Cmikio — Tlio ('.nKi.linn
l'"iir Tnicii- ill tlif hivt Cciitiiry — Tlic lliulsoirs l!ay Coiiipiiiiy— llliinilv ImuiK
between tlie Nortli-Wc >t Cuiiiip.iiiv n{ ('Miiailii iiinl llu' lluilsuiiV l>;iv (''i|iiii;iiiv
— 'i'lieir Aiiialtr:ini;ii ion into a New ('(iinpar.y in IS'il — Kei'Diistrui'timMif lli'
IIikIsuh's I!ay ('iiiiii'aiiy in ISfiH — I'mMs ui' Houses Tlie All ilia wiiny: JiiHiwiV'
of the Coini'aiiy oil its .--ava^'e l)i'|ii'ii(lenls — 'I'lie lilaek Itear or liarilial— Tin
Jirown I'lar — Tlie (irisly IKar 'I'iii' Ii'aeoon ~ 'I'lie Ainei'iean (ilnttoii 'I'll'
Pino >rafteii- Tile I'lkan or W<.oil>lioek — The Cliiiiiza — Tlie Mink— The Caiia
iliaii Fish-otter — Tiu' ('ro.-seci I'ox The l>iaek or Silvery I'ox — The ('aii:ili.iii
l^ynx or Tishu — The Ice Hare— 'I'lie Heaver — The Mnxjiiasli.
AS tlio dosiro to ivaeh Tiulia by tlio shortest roiul first ni.nl''
tlie civilisi'd world {icquaiiited Avith the eastern const
of North AiiK'riea, so the extension of the fur trade has Imhii
the chief, or rather tlie oiil}-, motive wliicli originally led tlu^
footsteps of the white niaii from the C^madian Lakes iiml
the borders of Hudson's Bay into the remote interior of that
vast continent.
The first Euroi)ean fur traders in North Aiiieriea weiv
French (Canadians — coureurs des bois — a littintr surnaino fi'i'
men habituated to an [ndian forest life. Three or four "t
these 'irregular spirits ' a^'reein*^ to make an expedition into
the backwoods would set out in their birch-bark canoe, lailtii
Till-: I'AIMMJ-niRCH.
3:J!)
IIRITORJKS.
„._-Tllo Ciii.i.lm:;
,ir> liay ('"laiai.v
•diiMnu'lii'ii "f ll:'
(ir r>aril':il- !'■
;,ii «iliUt<'n li'
Mink— 'rhf».'ai"i
,,;_TllO ('MllM'li.l'
|oa«l first wmV
casti'Vii t'*'!''"'
Iriulo liiis Ih'.h
l-inally l.-l tli'^
in Ltikos ana
^torior uf tlm'
^nioric'u nv^i"^'
Ijr sunuiiiio f"l'
[ee or four "I'
jxpcditit '"'"'"
with ijooils roeoived on trust t'ntin a niorcliant, I'or a vovaij*'
of ^'ivat (laiiufcr and hardship, it nii|^ht b»' of sovoral yrars,
into tlic wildornoss.
On their return tho merchant who ha<l <,''iven them credit
of course received tho lion's share of the skins <,Mthered
anmno- the Ilurons or the Irocjuois; the small }»(»rtion left as
;i rec(»nipense for their own lahour was soon spent, as sailors
spend their hard-earned wa;j;"es on their arrival in port;
and then they stai'ied on some new adventure until linallv
old ix'j^o, infirmities, or death prevented their revisiting the
fort>st.
The modern ' voyiKjetn^'' who has usurped th«> place of the
old ' I'ltiiri'iirK,^ is so like them in maimers and mode of life,
tliat to know the one is to become ac(]uainted with the other.
In .-liort, the voya^eur is merely a conreur subject to strict
law and serving for a fixed pay ; while the coin-eur was a
voya<,'our tradin<^ at his own risk and peril, and acknow-
itil^injT no control when once beyond tho pale of European
colonisation.
The cannd is frequently called the 'ship of the desert,'
and with equal justice th«' birch-bai'k canoe mi<^ht be named
the ' camel of tho North American wilds.' For ifwecon-
-idt-r the rivers which, covering the land like a net-work,
ar.' the <»nly arteries c»f conununication ; the frequent
laj.ids and cataracts; the shallow -waters fiowing over
a >tony ground whose sharp angles would infallibly cut to
I'i' CCS any boat made of wood; and finally the surround-
iiiu' deserts, where, in case of an accident, the traveller is left
to his own resources, we must come to the conclusion that
ill such a country no intercourse could p<»ssibly be carried on
without a boat made of materials at once fiexil>Ie and tough,
and capable moreover of being easily repaire<l without th(»
aiil of hammer and nails, of saw and plane. This invaluable
material is supplied by the rind of the paper-bindi, a tree
whose uses in the Hudson's Bay territories are almost as
iiiiinitold as those of the palm trees of the tropical zone.
Where the skins of animals are rare, the pliant bark, ]»eeled off
ill large pieces, serves to cover the Iiidian's tent. Car«'fully
><'\vii together and ornamented with the quills of the porcupine,
z 2
•MO
TIIK I'lM.AK WoKIJ).
■ I
it is iiiadc into Ijuski'ts, siic-ks, dislies, pliitos, and drinliini^f
cii[)S, iind ill fiK'l is in one \v»»i*(l tin* chiof uiiitcrial of which
tht! h<»usL'holtl iii'tii'K'.s (»t* the Creos uiv foniu'd. The wood
servos lor the nianuliictnro of oars, snow-shoes, and sled^•^'^;
and in s[»rin^ the sa[) of the tree fnrnishes an ajj^reeable beve-
rage, \vhi(di, by boiling'-, muy be inspissated into a sweet syru|i.
Beyond the Aretic Circle tlie paper-bireh is a rare iind
en»oked tree, but it is met with as a shrub as far as (lt)° X. hit.
rt ^Tows to perfection on the northern shores of Lake Supi-
rior, near Fort Williain, where the on noes of the Hudson's
]Jiiy L\>ni[)iiny are cliietly manufactured.
A birch bark canoe is betwi'cn thirty and forty feet lonu-,
and the rinds of which it is built are sewn toyrether wilh
iilaments of the root of the Canadian fir. In case of a hnic
beiny" knocked into it durin*;' the journey, it can be patclicd
like an ohl coat, and is then again as «rood as new. As it hus
a flat bottou), it does iu)t sink deep into the water; and iW
river must be almost dried up which could not carry smii
a boat. The car^'o is divided into bales or j)arcel8 of (iniii
1M» to loo jiounds ; and jilth<»ugh it frequently amounts \<>
more than four tons, yet the canoe itself is so liyht that tlir
crew can easily transjiort it U{»on their shoulders. This
crew ^vnerally consists of eiy-ht or ten men, two of wlunn
nuist l)e experienced boatnu'U, who receive double pay, aii'l
are placed one at the helm, the ()ther at the jtoop. Wlicii
the wind is fair, a sail is unfurled and serves to liyhtiii
the toil.
The C*anadian voya<^-eur combines the lio-ht-heartcdiicss
of the Frenchman with the apathy of the Indian, and h\>
dress is also a mixture of that of the Ri>d skins and nt
the Eur(tpeau colonists. Fre(iuently he is himself ii mix-
ture t>f (iallic and Indian blood — a so-called ' bois-brultV
and in this case doubly li<^ht-hearted and unruly. Willi
his woolleii blanket as a surcoat, his shirt of stri[it'il
cotton, his jjantaloons of doth, or his Indian stockinj^s ct
leather, his mocassins of deer-skin, and his sash of «,'an'lily
dyed avoi>1, in which his knife, his tobaceo-bau*, and various
other utensils are stuck, he stands hi<^h in his own csttriii.
His lang'ua<i,"e is a French jari>-on, richly interlarded Avitli
Indian and Enijflish words — a jumble tit to drive a <^raiu-
Till-: VOYAJJKL'HS i.ll'K.
^41
I drill lciu'„'
il of wln<li
The >v<i«mI
esiblo bevc-
weotHyrui".
I rare '.iikI
^(Jt)°X. lat.
Luke SniM'-
ty foci 1"1I'j:.
xrotlior with
ISO of il ll"l"'
I bo i»'.iUli"'l
v. As it lius
tor; and Hi''
,t carry s\i<'li
I'ools of IVnlll
,- amounts in
o-lii that til.'
Mors. This
\V(» of whiiiii
bio pay, aii'l
|)()op. Whi'ii
k to light.'ii
.boarto(bi''>s
llian, ami hi>
[skills ami I't
lusolf a mi>;-
' bois-V>i'"l'''
riily. Witli
It of stvil'*'-^
st<)okiiiu>^ ^'*
th of jifau'lily
ami various
own ostfriu.
[rlardod Avith
Irivo a ynim-
)ii;iiian mad, but wliicli lio tliinks so oiiplioiiioiis that liis
tuiiMUf is soarct'ly ovor at ri>st. His supply <»f soiii^'s ami
Miiccdott'S is iiioxliaustibli', and lio is always roady for a.
(Iiiiici'. His politonoss is oxomplary : ho iiovcr calls his
mirados othorwiso than ' nion froro,' and ' iiion cousin.
h
is hardly necessary to roniark that ho is ahio to handle his
l((.;it with the sumo ease as an expert rider maiia^'os his
Imrse.
When al'tor a hard day's work tliev rest for the nin-ht, the
axe is immodiat<'ly at work in the nearest forest, and in
Itss than ton minutes tho tent is orooted and the kettle
sinniierinpf on the lire. While the passengers — jterhajts
sutiu' ehiof-tradi'r on a voyay;o to some distant fort, or a
buck or a Richardson on hi
s w
ly
to tho Polar Ocean — are
w, inning' ordryiiiii;- thomsolvos, the indefatinable ' voya^'enrs '
thiiLi' <ho anluadod canoe ash<»re, turn it over, and oxamino it
iiiri'lully. either to fasti'ii a^'ain some loose stitcdies, or to
\K\\\\\ over some dama^'od ])art with fresh rosin. I'ndor the
rnvtr of their boat, which they turn a^'ainst the wind, and
with a flamin«4; tiro in tho foroj^'round, they then bid delianci^
tlic weather
At
one o (
lock
ic m tho morninu"
r.
eve
eve
lrV(
is called ; in half-an-hour tho encampment is broken up,
u\u\ the boat rohnlon and launche<l. At oiL;"ht in the morning
;i h;iit is made for breakfast, for which throe cpiartors of an
linur are allowed. About t\vo in the afternoon half an hour's
ivst sutHc(.'s fova cohl dinner. Ki^ditoon hours' work ami six
liiMirs* rest make t»ut the day. Tho labour is incrediltio; yet
thi' " viiya^'our' not «»nly sii[>ports it without a mnrinur, but
with the utnH»st choi'rfiilnoss. Such a life re((uires, of course,
iiii ii'dU constitution. In rowin;^", the arms and hreast of the
' viiMijcur' are oxerto<l to the utmost: and in shallow jilaccs ho
ihaus tjic boat after him, wadinn' u[» to the knees and thighs
ill the water. Whore ho is oMiticd to Uni-c his way aiiainst
:i I'lipid. tho dran" rope must bo pulled over rocks jiiid stumps
• if trees. throut>-h swamps and thi(dcets; and at the pnrtii<4'es
tlir iui"l;'o and tho boat have to be carried over execrable
inails to the next nayiui'able water. Then the ' voya^-eur '
tiikts upon his back two jtacka^'os. each wei^hiii|j;' IM)
liiiuiids, and attaxdiod by a leathern bolt running- over tho
t'irchead, that his hands may be free to <d(Mr the way; and
»42
TIIK VO\ATl WORLD.
siK-li jM»rtiiM^('s soiiiL'liiiios occur ten or eleven times in one
(lay.
For iliese toils of his wjiiulerin<x life he has niiiny eoni[»('ii-
sations, in the keen Jippetite, the genial sensation ofniusi'ulin
stn'iiy;t}i, and the flow ol's[»irits entj'enflerecl by labour in tlic
l»ure and bracin<^ air. Surely many would rather brealli<'
with the ' voya<j^eur ' the lra;^rance of the pine forest, or
share his rest iiixni the borders of the stream, than Itiid
the monotonous life of an artisan, pent up in the imjiurc
atmosphere of a city.
During the tirst period of the American fur trade tin'
* ooun'urs des b(»is' usi'd to set out on their adventiu'oiis
expeditions from the villii<^'e ' La Chine,' one of the ol']"sl
and most famous settlements in Canada, wliose name poiiits
to a time when the St. Lawrence was still supposed to ho
the nearest wa}' to China. How far some of them nniy have
penetrated into the interior of the continent is nnlcnown;
but so much is certain, that their re<ijular expeditions ex-
tended as far as the Saslcatchewan, 2,5(K> miles beyond tin'
remotest European settlements. Several factories or forts
protected their interests on the banks of that noble rivir;
and the French would no doubt have extended their do-
minion to the Rocky Mountains or to the Pacilic if tin'
e(»nquest of Canada by Enj^-land, in 17(51, had not cnm-
pletely revolutionized the fur trade. The chanj^e of dn-
miuion laid it jirostrate for several years, but our eiitti-
prisin^' countrymen soon opened a profitable interonnsr
with the Indian tribes of the west, as their predecessors
had done before them. Now, however, the advent urous
' coureur des bois,' who had entered the wilds as a sciiii-
iiidependent trader, Avas oblio-od to serve in the ]>ay <d' tlif
British merchant, and to follow him, as his 'voyaui'ur.'
dei'per and deeper into the wilderness, initil finally tin v
reached on the Athabasca and the Churchill River tin'
Indian hunters who used to sell their skins in the sottlo-
ments of the Hudson's Bay Company.
This Company was founded in the yoav 1070 by a botly nl'
adventurers and merchants under the patronage of Priiuo
Rupert, second cousin of Charles TI. The charter obtaincil
from the (.'rown was wonderfully liberal, comprisin*^; not oidv
TIIK ( ANADIAN I'lK TKAIUMJS.
;fjM
ics in <'iif
y colMlM'll-
fmusculiii
)our ill tli<'
or bv*'iilli<'
forest, or
than lt';\«l
the iini»uiv
■ tnule til"
Ldvouturous
• tlie ol'l"st
name points
posi'cl to Im'
m may I'Uvc
s ulllvll<>^vll ;
(oditious fx-
s boyoiul till'
ries or t'ort-
iioble vivrv;
'd tlieir (lo-
u-itic it' tli<'
lul iu»t t'om-
,ano'e ot dn-
our enti'V-
iuterct'ursf
predecessors
adventurous
as a si'uii-
e pay «'f tli»'^
' voya;jom','
tinaily tli.y
,1 River the
In the sottlo-
by a body ot
jo-'e of Pnii''^'
Uer obtaiiif'l
[jino- not only
iht' j,'rant uT theexclusivo trade, l)Ut also of full territorial pos-
session to all perpetuity of the vast lands within the wat*>rslied
i.t' lluds(»u's JJav. The iV>mpaiiv at once established some
(urfs aloii^' tlie sh(»res of the i^a'eat inland S(^a from which it
derived its name, and opened a very hiorative tra<le with the
Indians, so that it never ceased [layiiio- viih dividends to the
ruitunate sliareholders until towards the elose of the last
I eiitury, when, as I liave already mentiiuied, its prosperity
l>e^;iii to be serionslv att'eeted bv the enery^etie competition
uftlie Canadian fur traders.
In spite of the floiirishinL,' state of its affairs, or rather
ln'cause the mon<»poly which it enjoyed aUowed it t(> prosper
without cxerti(»n, the Company, as lon^- as Canada remained
in French hands, had combicted its affairs in a very indolent
manner, waiting' for the Indians to brin^ the pnxbice of
tlii'irchase t() the Hudson's Bay settlements, instead of follow-
iiiu' them into the interi(jr and stimulatinjjf them by offeriiiL?
'^'realer facilities for exeliano-e.
For «M<4'hty years after its fouiuhition the Company pos-
'd no more than four small forts on the shores of
id onlv when the encroachments of the
sess(
Hud
sou s
B:
y
ai
Canadians at length roused it from its torpor, did it re-
>nlve likewise to advance into the interior, and to establish
:i tort ou
the
eastern shori.' of Stur<>-eon
Lai
ce
in
tl
le
year
1771. Up to this time, with the exception of the voya<.>e of
discovery which Hearne (177<> 71) made under its auspices
to the mouth of the Coppermine River, it ha<l done but
iiitlc tor the promotion of j^eoo-raphical discovery in its vast
territory.
Mtanwhilc the Canadian fur traders had become so hate-
ful to the Indians, that these savayes formed a conspiracy
tor their total extiriuition.
Fortunately for the white men, the siiiiill-pox broke out
;diout this time anion;.' the Red-skins, iind swept them away
lis the tire consumes the parched yrass of the [n-airies.
Tliejr uuburied corpses were torn by the wolves and wild
do^s, and the survivors were too weak and dispirited to be
id)le to undertake anvthinj; ayainst the foreio;n intruders.
The Canadian fur traders now also saw the necessity of
'"luhiuiiii^ their efforts for their mutual benelit, instead of
341
TIIK I'ULAK \V(>I{I.I».
ruitiinj^ oiicli otluT l>y an iiisiiii«' coiiipctiiioii ; aiid ooiisc-
qiioiitly f'orinc'd, in 1 "H.'J, a society wliicli, iiinU'r the iiiit f
tlu' Morth-Wi'st (VdiipiMiy (»f Caiiadii, at tii'st consisttMl nt
sixtt'cii, later of twenty jtartuers or sliarelioMers, some ot
whom lived in Canada, while the (»thers were seatter.il
anion''' tlio various stations in the interioi
Tl
le wliolf
Canadian fur trade was now <^neatly devel(»iM'd; for while
previously each of the associates had Mindly striven to do as
much harm as jiossihlo to his present partners and tlms in-
directly danni^^'d his own interests, they now all vi^-onmslv
united to beat the rival Hudson's Hay Company (»ut <»r tlir
Held. The a^'ents of this North-West Company, in ddi-
aneu of their charter, were indefatigable in explorinti" tlu'
lakes and woods, the plains and the m<»untains, for the |iur-
pose of establishing- new tradinj,'-stations at all convenient
poll
its.
The most C(del>rated of tl
lese
I'
)ioneers of commcnc
Alexander Mackenzie, reached, in the year 1 ?><'.►, the nioiitli
of the <;reat river which bears his name, and saw the wliitf
dolphins o-ambol about in the Arctic Sea. In a second vova^v
he crossed the Rocky JVIountains, and foilow»'d the coursr
of the Fraser River until it disidiar;4-es its waters into llir
Georffian (jlulf, ojtposite to Vancouver's Islaml. Here ]u-
wrote with perishable vermilion the folhtwine- inscription
a roek-wall fronting- the L»Milf : —
I'll
A. M;
H'ki'ii/ie
ai'i'i\c'(l tVoni Caiiiida Ity land,
'2-2 .Iiilv. iri'-'. '
The words were soon elfaced by Avind and weather, but tin'
fame of the expU>rer will last as loii;^' as the Enjji'lisli laii-
j^uai^'e is spoken in America.
The ener<;etic North-West Comjiany thus rided over
the whole continent from the Canadian Lakes to the R'ickv
Mountains, and in 180G it even crossed that Ijarvier inul
established its forts on the northern tributaries of tln'
Columbia River. To the nortli it likewise extended its
operations, encroachin|j;- more and more upon the privileyvs;
of the Hudson's Bay CVunpany, which, roused to energy, nnw
also pushed on its posts further and further into the interim 'f.
IKID.S AM) \V.\I{
.14.
t'ueriTV, n"^^'
ainl )'st;il»Iis)it'<l in \S\2 a coloiiy on tlir Rt-il Kivcc 1(» tlic
soiitli <•!' W'iiiipt'y liiikf. thus driviii!^', as it wire, ii sliiirp
tlii.ni into the siilc of it.s rival. l>nt a iiowcr liki- tin" Noitli-
W'.'st Couipany, wliidi hail no less than .'»'• a'^-rnts, "'►
iiiti'i-pn'tcrs, anil 1,120 voya'^-t'ur.s in its piiy, and whose
( liji't' nianayrrs used to a|»|»t'ar at their annual nici'tiui^s ;it
I'ni't William, on the hanks (»!' Lakf SujM'i'ior, with all the
|iiinii> and |»ridt' of feudal harons. was nctt inclined to tolerate
this encroaehnient : and thus, al'tei' many (juairels, a i'e<^ular
nil
V hroko out hi'tween the two parties, which, after t
Wo
Villi's' duration, led to the ex|>ulsion of the lied Kivei- eolo-
iiists and the murder of their (jiovernor, Sem[»le. This event
tenk jtlaet' in the year ISHJ, and is hut (Uio episode of tin.'
Iihunly feuds which continued to reii,''n itetween the two
rival Companies until \s2\. At first siyht it may seem
•^tiiiuii'c that sutdi a<ts of violence should take place hetwcen
liiitish suhjccts and on ih'itish soil, hut then we must coii-
lci-that,at that time, European law luul little power in the
Aiiicricau wilderness.
'I'he dissensions of the fur traders had most deplorahle
iiiiisiMjuenoe.s i'ov the Jiedskins ; for hoth C*om]»aiiies, to swell
the niunher of their adherents, lavishly distrihuted spirituou.s
lii|Uoi's — a temptation which no Indian ciiii resist.
SK
Tl
K' W
hole of the huntiuif-L'Tounds <»f the lSaskat<'hi'wan
;iiid Athabasca. vv<'re but one scene of revelry ;iiid blo(»(lshed.
Aiivady decimated l)y the small-pox, the Indians now be-
canu' the victims of diamkenness and discord, and it was to
he feared that if tin; war and its e(»iise(iuent denioi'alisatioii
reiitiuued, the most important tril)es would soon be utterly
swept away.
The tinancesof thebellio-erent (,'oin[)anies were in an e(|ually
ile|. lovable state; the })roduce of tin- chine diminished from
vcav to year with the increase of their expenditure ; and thus
the Hudson's Bay CV)m[)any, which used tt» gratify its share-
lii'lders with divichnids of ."JO ami 'Jo per cent., w;is un:ible,
tVi.iii 1>!08 to 18 II', to distribute a single shilling- amonn-them.
At leni'th ■wisdom
iled
prevailed over pussion, and llie enemies
I th
eaiue to a resolution which, if taken from the very be^-innin;^-.
Would have saved them both a j^-reat deal of treasure and
iiiaiiv crimes. Instead of coutinuintr to swino- the tomahawk.
.'un
TIIK POLAK WORLIJ.
thry now smoked ilir oalmnct, iind SMiKil^atiuitcd in |S2I
iiiidt'i* tlx.' iiJiiiM' ol' the * liudsoirH Uny ('(tmpaiiv,' siiid under
tlu! win^ of the charter. The Hritish (lovernnu'id, as a
dowry to Ihe impoverished eoupU», presented tliem with a
lieence «»f exidusive trade throujjfhout tlie Avlioh,' of thai
territory wliieh, under the name of the Hudson's IJay and
Nortli-West territories, extends from Labrador to the
I'acihe, and from the Red River to the Polar Oeean. This
lieenee was terminable in 21 years, but in 1S:{H it was renewed
a^^ain for the same period. Tiie f^-ood effeets of peace and
union soon became api)arent, for after a few years tlie Conj-
pany was enal>k'd to pay half-yearly dividends of tive per
cent., and the Indians, to whom brandy was now no lonj^'cr
supplied unless as a medicine, enjoyed the advantages of ii
nujre sober life.
About liSlH the Imperial (Jovernment, fearinj;* that Van-
couver's Island niij^ht be annexed by the United Statts.
resolved to place it under the management of the Huij-
son's Bay Company. This was accordingly done in 1SK>. A
licence of exclusive trade and niana^'enient was <;Tanted tni-
ten years, terminable therefore in lHo\) (the time <»f expira-
tion (»f the similar licence over tlie Indian territ(»ry).
These were the palmy days of the Hudson's Bay Company.
They held Rupert's Land by the Royal charter, which wns
peri>etual ; they held Vancouver's Island and the whole
Indian ten'ititry to the Pacific by exclusive licences termi-
nable in 18.")!) ; and thus nniintained luider their sole s\v:iy
about 4,000,000 square miles — a realm larg'cr than the wlu'lo
of Europe.
For the ten years ondiiif^ May HI, 18(32, the avcrao'e net
annual profits of the (Nimpany anioimted to 81,000/. on ii
paid up capital of 100,000/., but a portion only of this income
Avas distributed as dividend.
In 18(58 the Company was reconstructed with a capital of
2,000,000/., for the purpose of enlarj^'in^- its operations — sutli
as opening the southern and more fruitful districts of the
Saslvatchewan or the Winipe^if to European colimisation ; but
the northern, and by far the lar<;er portion of the vast
domains over which, after the dismemberment of Britisli
Columbia and the Stikine territory, it still holds swav, luive
Ti:AI)IN(i I'OSTS.
;U7
1(t(» st'vcrc ii cliniiit*' rvcr to Itc ciiltivulc*!, mid, imlcss llu'li*
iiiiiKTiil wciilth 1h' iiiiMlc aviiiliiltit', must r\rv Uc what tlu'V
,in' MOW— a I'ur-lx'arin^ n-^nou (»rnIooiMy i»i!K'-foivsts, iiak»'(l
liiin'('ii-;^n'ouii«ls, lakes, and iii(»rass«'s.
Over this vast extent of dcsei't the ('oni[)anv has established
iil.oiit l.')!) tradinjjf posts, called '//*wm«.x,' or ' /(m7.x,' whiidi,
liitwever, consist merely of a few ma^^a/ines and dwellin<,'-
liiiiises jn'otected l»y a simple wall, stockade, or palisade,
Mitliiiently strong*- to resist anysndch'n attack tif the Indians.
Aiiion^jf the tribes with >vhom a friendly intercoin'se has lonj^
siil»sisted, and whose fidelity may imjjlicitly be trusted, no
^•iiard is over kept, and it is only in torts more recently built
in remote parts that precautiims are taken.
These forts arc always situated on the bord<'rs of a lake or
liver, both for lacility of transport and for the }»urpose (»f
ratchin^' fish, particularly tlu> speci<'s of Corei,'onus or white-
ti>h. which, from its imjiortam-e to all the nativi's (»f Rupert's
Laud between the <^'reat Canada Lakes and the Ai'ctic Sea,
till' (*reeH call Attihawnu'jj;, <»r the ' reindeer of the waters.'
hi many <»f the tradiii*^' posts it tonus the chief food (^>f the
wliile residents ; aiul it is asserted that thouj^-h deprived of
I'lvad and ve«i;etables, a, man may live upon it for m(»nths <»r
tvcii years without tirinj:jf. Accordinyto Sir J«din Richardson,
nil lish in any country or sea exctds the Avhite fish in flavour
iiiid wholesomenoss, and it is the m(»st beneficial article of
tlict to the Red Indians near the Arctic Circle, bcin^' ob-
♦ iiincd with more certainty than the reindeer, and with les<s
rliaii<,'o of abode in summer and winter.
Ivieh (tf the principal forts is the seat of a chief factor, or
liviit'val adjninistiator of a district, and of a chief trader, who
transacts the business with the Indians.
I'x'^ides these principal functioiuiries — out of whom the
U'lVciMior is chosen — the ('t>mpany employed, in iSdO, 5
sin-p^ons, 87 clerks, (J7 postmasters, l,:2oo pcrmani'ut ser-
vants, and ^OO voya;;'enrs, besides tem]iovary em]iloy»'s of
'litl'iTcnt ranks, so that the total number of persons in its pay
Avas at least i»,()00. Besides this little army of immediate
"It'iK'udents, the whole nnile Indian jtopulation of its vast
Ifiritory, amoinitino; to about 1UO,(HIO hunters an<l trappers,
may be considered as actively empl<)yed in the service of the
348
Tin: I'oi.Aii wonij).
Coiii|»iiiiy. Armed vessels, Ixdli s;iirm«j: iiiid steam, iiii-
eiii[t]«»_vr<l (Ml llic north-west coast, t<» ean'v on ilic i'lir tnnl.-
Avitli (he warlike natives of that distant region. Moi-e Ihaii
twcntv rears aj-'o this trade ak)ne iiiivi' emidnvnient to aliont
1, ()()(> men, oecupyin<^" -!l permanent establishments, or 'ii-
^•a^'ed in navi;^'atinj4" .") arme»l sailing' vessels, and 1 armed
steamer, varvin-^- from lOO t(> ^{OO tons in bnrden.
The inlhieiiee of tJie Company over its sava^-e dept'n<l-
ents may justly be called beiietieial. Both from motives of
hum
tl
initv and self-interest, every effort is made to eivili>
lem.
N
o expen
y
ISO is SDared to preserve them from the want
into Avhieh their im]»rovidenee too often plnn^^'es them ; aii<l
the examitle of an intlexil)le strai<4htforwardness serves io
j^^ani
tl
u-U" eon
fid
enee,
Tl
us mora
1
prep
d
»on(lerane(\ ant
I tl
admiration of the Indian for the snjjerior knowled<^'e ami
arts of the Europeans, explain how a mere handful of white
men, scattered over an enormous territory, not onlv h'ad i
life of perfect security, but exercise an almost absolute powtr
over a native populati<»n outniindK'rii!«j; them at least Severn 1
hundred times. The Indians have in course of time acquired
many n«Mv wants, and have thus become more an<l more de-
pendent on the white trath'rs. The sava^'e hunter is no
hm^'er the free, self-dependent man, who, with(tut any forei:;!!
assistance, was able to make and manufacture, with his own
hands, all the wea])ons and articles needed for his mainten-
ance. Without Knii'lish tire-arms and iishinti" <4'ear, witheut
iron-ware and wo<dlen blankets, he could no lon|L«'er exist, ami
the unfortunate tribe on which the Oompany should cdost,' its
stores would s<»on perish for want. ' History,' says l*rofessor
Hind,"^ 'does not furnish another example of an assiMdatieii
of private individuals exerting* a }^o^yerful inlluence over >"
lari;'e an extent of the earth's surface, and administerine- tin ji'
affairs with such consunnnate skill and unwaveiinn' devotieii
to the oriu'inal objects of their incorpoi-ation.'
The standard of exchange in all mercantile transaction^
with the natives is a. lieaver-skin, the relative value of wliieh
as orio'inally established by the traders, differs considei;ilil\
from the presoit worth of the articles represented by it; but
'^ NariMlivr 'jl'thi ('iiiKiilian \\>A JJivrr IvxiiUiring IvxiHililiun. vol. ii. \\ "Jl
KXTKNT or IIIK I"IK TUAhi;
:U<
'ilin, ill"'
fur trii»l<'
Ion,' tliiin
t to illM.\l1
s, t>r fii-
[ 1 lIlUU'il
O (li'pflltl-
motivi'S t'f
to civili>''
II the Avaiit
tlu'in ; siii'l
i st'i'vcs i"
•0, illltl 111''
vIcmIi^'O iiinl
ml of wliiti'
(•Illy l*';i'l 1
ohito pow.r
cast st'vrviil
a
lie acfiuivi
(1 more <1
111
iter i> 11"
niy fovfi::!!
•itli bis own
lis luaiuit'ii-
\vith«'Ut
■xist, aiiil
Idclosr it>
Trot;
ar
ItT <
l)U
Ivs
<('>!'
Ii assiit.-iat It'll
[llCO oVi'l' >"
^ioriuu-tliiii'
tlcvoti"!'
1":4"
ItraiisactK'ii-
liio oi" wlii'li
l.'nil'b
.'OllSlt
I by it
l.ut
tilt' Indians an: avrrsi' to cliany-t'
Tl
H'v n-ocivc
tl
WW i>nn
(•i|p,il outfit of elotliiuii" ami aiuniunition on cn'dit in tlic
aiiHunn, to l»e n'[)aid by ihoir winter hunts: the amount
I'litrustt'd to each of tlic hunters varyinuf with their reputa-
tions for in(bistry and skill.
The furs which, in the course of the year, are accumulated
ill the various forts or trading- stations, are transjiorted in
the short time during- which the riv«'rs and lakes an* navi-
i^alile, and in the manner described iit the beu'lnuiuL; of the
•lia'eter, t«» York Factorv,
<»r
M
o(»se
Fact
orv. on
ILu<l
son s
bay, to ^Montreal or Vancouver, and shipped from thence
mostly to Lon(h)n. From the more distant }>c>sts in the in-
tiiior. the transport otten n'(]uires several seasons: for
tr.i veiling- is necessarily very slow when ra[>i<ls and |>orta^'es
continually interrupt navit^-ation, and the lon^- winter puts a
st'ip to all interconrse whatever.
'Llie i^'ouds from Furope, consistinti* (besides those men-
tii'iicd above) of print(.'d cotton, or silk handkerchiefs, or
iMclc-cloths. of beads, and the universal favourite tobacco,
iv(jiiin' at least as much time to lind their way into the
iii>tant interior; and thus the C/ompany is not seldom obli^'t>d
t'lwait for four, live, or six years before it I'cceives its returns
f"!' the articles sent from TiOiidoii. It must, h(»we\er, be
iiiiitessed, that it amply repays itself for the tetliousness of
ilrlay. for Dr. Arnistron;^' was told by the Fs([uimanx of ('a[)e
I'.iitliurst — ^a tribe in the habit of tradiiiL^' with the Indians
IVntii the Mackenzie, who are in diri'ct communication with
til'' Hudson's ]3ay (Company's ai^'ents — that for three silver
'ty-
't( h as luLih
il. ii. r
•Jll.
t"\ skins — wlucli somt times letcu as ni;^!! a [»rice as twent
live or thirty <4uineas a-piece at the annual sale of the Oom-
|i;iii\ - Ihev had <>-ot from the traders cooking- utensils which
iiiiL^'lit be worth eiu'lit shilliuLi's and sixpence I
The value of the skins annually imported into Fnnland by
'il.' rt.mpany amounts to aliout i:.o,0(Ki/. or -JdO.ooo/. Be-
•*^i'U's, many of its furs are bartered for liussian-Aiiierican
l"'llry. and a lart;'e quantity is exported direct to China.
After this l)riet' account of one of the most remarkable
iiiiicantile associations of any a<4'e, some remark (»n the
iliiei" t'ur-bearinff animals of the Iludsoirs Bav territory mav
""t be without interest. Among- these, the bhudc bear,
330
TIIK VOLWl WORLD.
niiislcwd, or biivibal {Ui'siis americffDns), is ono of the most
Viiluiiblc, us his lonjif liair — unlike that of the In'owii or the
wliito bear — is beautifully smooth and !:>'l<»ss3% He inhabits
the forest re^-ions of North America, but mi'^'ates aceordiii"-
to the seasons. In spring ho seeks his food in the thick<'ts
alon^' the banks of the rivers or lakes ; in summer he retreats
into the forests ; in winter he either wanders further to tln^
south, or hollows out a kind of lair beneatli the root of an
ovei'tlirown tree, where, as the cold is more or less severe, lio
either finds a retreat after liis excursions, or hybernatcs
buried in the snow. He feeds chiefly on berries, ^raiii,
acorns, roots, ep;i?s, and honey; thoui^-h, when pressed liy
hunger, he will attack other quadrupeds. He climbs upon
trees or rocks with j^reat a^-ility, and, beino- very watcht'nl.
is not easily got at in summer. Sometimes, however.
his caution brings about his destruction ; for, from fear of
some possible danger, or at the slightest noise, he rises on
his hind legs to look over the bushes under which he liis
concealed, and thus offers a mark to the bullet of the hunter.
In the wintr'r, when the snow betrays his traces, he is nioro
easily shot, and his skin and flesh are then also in the best
condition. In spite of his apparent clumsiness and stoli<lity.
the muskwa is more alert than the brown bear, whom h'
nearly approaches in size ; he runs so fast that no man ciiii
overtake him, and is an excellent swimmer and clinibcr.
When attacked, he geiun-ally retreats as fast as possible iiitu
the forest ; but, if escape is impossible, he turns furiously
upon his pursuers, and becomes (!xceedingly dangerous.
Dogs alone are incapable of mastering him, as he is al\v;iy><
ready to receive them with a stroke of his forepaw ; but tin y
are very useful in driving him up a tree, and thus giving tin'
hunter an ojiportunity of hitting him in the right spot.
When in a state of captivity, the baribal, in his mild iiml
good-humoiu'ed disposition, is distinguished from the bvnwn
and white bear. His fur is also much more valuable tlnin
that of the brown bear.
It is not yet fully ascertained whether the Americiui
broAvu bear is identical with that of Enrojx' ; the resem-
blance, however, is close. \n summer he wanders to tlu'
shores of the Polar Sea, and indulges more frequenily in
Till-: HACOO.V.
3-. I
the most
)\vn or tlu'
inhabits
acc'ordiii'j;
u> thickets
herotroats
•thor to tho
( root of an
s severe, lio
hvhernatt's
ries, ^n-iiiiK
pressed hy
L-Uiiiljs \n"^"
i-y watchful.
's, howeviv.
from fear of
he rises on
hieh lie h^s
f the hiintfi'.
5, he is moro
) in the best
xnd stoli.litY.
n% whom li''
no man inn
Aw\ ehmbcv.
possible int(>
■ns fm-iensly
(hmgertm?.
he is ahviiys
iiw; but t hoy
us fi'iviH'-f till'
rigbt ^I'ot-
his mild aii'l
,ni the brown
aluablo tlum
iie American
the rescni-
[nders to lb''
froqnently i"
iiuimal food than the baribal. Tic is even said to attack
iiiMii when pressed by Inino-er; but all those whom Sir John
Ifitiiardson met with, ran away as soon as they saw him.
As the «iTisly bear {Uisks /I/vm) is found on the Koelcy
Mountains up to the latitude of (>1°, he u!id(tnbtedly deserves
ii place amon^- the sub-arctic animals. The skin of this most
formidable of the ursine race, who is about nine fe«'t lono- and is
siiid to attain the wei^-ht of eig-ht hundred pounds, is but little
pii/e<l in the fur trade. He is tin.' undoubted monarch of his
n;i
five wilds, for even the savativ bison Hies at his a
ppr
o
iicli
Altlu»u^h the racoon {Pronjou hitar) is more commoidy
I'dund in Canada and the United States, yet he is also an
iiiliiibitant of the Hudson's Bay territ(»ries, where he is nn't
with up t(» •'A'i^ N. hit. This interesting^ little animal, which,
like the bears, applies tlie sole of its foot to the <j;-round in
w;ilkin<^, has an averaj^-e leuf^th of two feet from the nos<»
to the tail, which is about ten incdies lon^*-. Its colour is
Ufcyish-brown, with a dusk}' line runnino* from Mie top of the
licinl down the middle of the face, and endinff below the
tyrs. The tail is very thickly covered with hair, and is
aniudated with several black bars on a yellowish- whiter
La-nund. Its face is very like that of the fox, whom it equals
in (•uiniin<j, while its active and playful habits resemble those
if the monkey, fts favoiu'ite haunts are the woods, near
stiv;iMis or lakes, for one of its most marked peculiarities,
t'nmi which it has received its specitic name of Infm; or the
washer, is its habit of pluuo-iny its dry food into water
Ih fore eating' it. The racoon devours almost anythin<,^ that
ooinos in his way — fruits and o-rain of all sorts, birds' nests,
mice, o-rasshoppers, beetles : while the waters yield him
ti>liis, crabs, and oysters, which he is very expert in ollenin^^
His fur forms no inconsiderable article of commerce, nnd is
vtry fashionable in Russia. In ISII, 111,'U() racoon skins
Were imported into St. IVtersburo-, and more than half a
niillion were stajded in Leipzig", intended, no doubt, for
^iiiULi'u'ling across the frontier.
The I'ur of the American g-lntttui, or w<»lverine, is much
ns.d for mutt's and linings; yet, from its being a notorious
1 'hlirr of their traps, the animal is as much hated by the
Iii'lian hunters as the dog-fish bv the northern fishermen.
^-,1
TIIK l'(U-AU WOULD.
Tlir llud.soii's Jiiiv territories ciiniiot boiist of the sable, l»u1
the Aiiierietin jtiiie iiiiivteii {Mnrfrx tih'niii.rn) is not iimeli in-
ferior ill Viihie, iis its ihirk brown fur is reiiiiirkably hue, tliiek,
iiml <_:lossy. It frequents tlie woody <listriets. where it preys
on l)ii(ls, and all the snniller (|ua(lru])e<ls from the hare to
the mctiise. Even the sqnirrel is ineapal)le of eseapinj,^ tlio
l>ine marten, and alter liavin;^" vaulted and elindx'd from tree
to tree, sinks lit last exhausted into its }4Tii>e.
The p(dcan, or woodshoelc (Mitrfrx rtiiKu/iiifiisj, the lar<;'est
of the marten family, is also the one Avhieh most richly sup-
plies the fur market. It is tounrl over the whole of North
Ai
n erica, and ti-enera
lUv 1
ives
in burrows near the banks ef
rivers, us it princii)ally I'eeds on the small (piadrupeds that
freipKMit the Avater.
Sevei'al species <
• I" ermine inhal)it the Hnds<»irs Bay ler
I'l-
tories, but their skins are of no ^i'reat importance in the fur
ti'ade. Iiike many other species (»f the marten family, they
eject, when irritated (»r alarmed, a tluid of a fetid odour; bill
in this respect they are fai- surpassed by the chin^'a {Mrplilii^i
r/iiiHid), whose secretion has so intolerable a smell that tln'
least (juantity sufhces to pi'oduce nansi'a and a sense i>\'
sutt'ocation. This animal is frequently found near llndsnirj.
Bay, whence it extends further to the north. In s])ite of tlic
formidable means of defence with which it lias been ariiicd
by nature, it is of use to man, for its black and -white striiMil
fur (which, as may easily bo supposed, m-ver appears in tlh'
European market) provides the Indians with covering-
tobacco pouches. Before seizin^' the chinj^'a, they irritati' it
with a lon<4' switch, until it has I'epratedly emptied the Lilmi'l^
er
ILI'-
from whi(di the noxious vapour issues ; then suddenly s[)rii
in<4' upon it, th"y hold it up by the tail and despatch it.
The miidc [\'i.<ini iiinrriciiiiiis). another member of tin
\veasel family, is one of tin,' most imp(»rtant fur-l)e;ii'iiiL
animals of the Hudson's Bay territories. It resembles tli
small Kuropean fish-otter ( I'/xo*/ I nivvoJa), but its skin is Im
nn»re valuaV»le — ihebrttwu IniirAvitli which it is covered beiii;
much softer and thicker. As its t
oes are connec
ted
small wi'b, it is an excellent swimmer, and as formidab
the salmon or trout in the water as to the hare on land.
hv ;i
The Canadian lish-otter {Lulra miKnl
iriixis)
far
sni'iiiissf
VVR \]\].\\l\Sr, ANIMAI,
:i;:\
■ sable, l)ul
t unub in-
.VI' it pvovs
he Uiivo t"»
scai>iu;j: ^^"'
'd from tvtc
tlio l;iV!A<'^t
t vu'bly siii>-
)le of Koitli
lu' baiilv!^ (if
rs liny I'-ivi-
ce in tbi' fur
., fiunily, ^ '-"'}■
ia odour; but
nu'll that tlir
cl a sense I't
Hudson's
f tlio
>ite ('
\('!ir
|ln SI
^is Vh'ou iivnitMl
•wbite stvii'f'l
m
iirs ill ^1>
oovevniU'
vX
\hv\ irvilat'' U
tie'dtbe'^-V'>"'1^
Iddeidy spriiii-
q.atcb it.
"inbei- «
lit fuv-VM-.iviii'.
d,l,'< til
Its sl<iii i> i'l
Ihi'
roseii
('(»vei'»M
1 Im'IU:
fovinit
t»Ml
hv u
blblr 1.
oil
laud.
far !^'»ri
i;l^-<<
Muro}
)ean s|M'cit'S.
both ill si/c and in the iK'aiitv of it;
M'lossy brown skin. It oeciirs as far nortliwards as (>(>' or
f.7 iat., and is pfpiuTally taken l»y sinking- a stoel trap near
llif I'loiitli of its Imrrow. It has the ]ia1>it of sliding- or
. limhi;ifif t(> the top of a ridi^'o of snow in winter, or of a sloping-
III! list bank in snniiner, where. lyiii;4' on the Ijelly, with the
iMic-feet bent backwards, it ^ives itself with the hind lens an
iiiil>uls<
w
hieh send;, it swiftlv down the eminence
Tlii>
M'lldl
•1-1m>v sport it eoiitinnes for a lonu" tim
Tlie red fox ( r"//'c.s'y"/'/r//,s). which is tbnnd tliron;,diont the
llinlson's Bav territories, has likewise a much Hiu'r fnr than
It
»f a bi'itild f(
d
th
niir common io\. it is ot a i»i'i;^lit terrnn'inons re<i on tiie
IhMil. bai'k, and sides ; beneath the chin it is white, while
till' throat and nock are <»f a dark •^rey, and the under parts of
till' ImkIv, towanls the tail, are of a very i>ale red. The crossed
fdx <'iiin's ilrrnssiif IIS], th[is named from the black cross on its
^IlllllIdcl•s. is still more valuable ; its skin — the colour (»f which
i< II sort of Lirey, resulting' from the mixture of Idack and
wliitc hair — lH'in<4' worth four or Hve ^'uineas. Peltry, still
iiiMif costlv. is furnished bv the black <»r silvery fox (<'iiiii.<
•h-'f iit'iliis), whose copious and beautiful fur is of a rich and
■>liiiiiii^' Itlack, or deep brown colour, with the Ioniser or ex-
ti'vinr liairs of a silvery white, rnfortunately it is of such
r;irt' occurrence, that not nnire than four or tive areaniinaliy
lii'oiiLjht to a trading' post.
The Canada lynx, or pishu (/////"' canafleiisiK), is smaller
t!::!!! the European species, but has a finer fur. those skins
l"iiii^' most valued which ap[)roach to a ])ale or whitish
'"loiiv. and on which the s[>ots are most distinct. It chiolly
\rr\\< (III the hare ([jijhis h niirirniiiis), whicli is not much
l^ii'ucr than a rabldt, and is found on the banks ol' the
M;ii'kiii/i.' as far north as (IS'' or (>!>".
Still nearer to the P(»le, the ice-hart,' (l.i /ms (jhiriiills) ran<^'es
i'^ fiir as the Parry Islands (7')' X. lat.i, where it feeds on the
"i''tic willdw, and other hii;'h northern jdants. Its favouriti'
■ '^oits lire the stony districts, ^vhere it easily finds a refuiie ;
'!! winter it lmrr<»ws in the snow. In summer its back is
-I'vi^li white. l»ut as the cold increases, it becomes white.
"'.til the exi^eption of the tips of the ears, which remain cou-
••'iitl\ biark.
A A
■waasB
.'{ 5 \
Tin: rOLAU WnlilJ).
Fovincrly tlic liciivcv (fasfor flhrr) wiis tin- most iinportjiiii
f»f' <lir riii'-ln'iiriii^' iniiin;ils of the lIudsoM's U\\y territories.
Ill the ye;ir 17l->, 127J><)(l beiiver skins were ex)>orte«l i'roiii
Moiitreiil in fill Itochelle. and 2<»,700 by the llu(ls(»irs liiiv
I'oiiipany to Loiuhdi. At present, the ox])ortiiti(»u lianllv
innounts to ono-tliirdof tliis (|niintity. As tlio beaver cliiellv
lives oil the barks of tlie Avillow, the beech, and the poii];ii'.
it is not found l)eyond llie forest region ; but alon;^ the bani<s
of the Maeken/ie it readies a A'ery hiyh hititude.
The musk rat, oiwhitra or musquash { Fifnr zlhrtlilniK) —
"wliieli is about the sizf of a small rabbit, and of a re(hlisli-
bi-o\vn eolour — is calhMl l»v tlu' Indians the vounwr brotlitr
of the beaver, as it has similar instincts. Essentially ;i
bank haunt in^- animal, it is never to be seen at any '^\vu\
distance from the watci', where it swims and dives ■with cuii-
suinmate ease, aith'd ^reatlv bv the webs ^vllich conn(H-t tin
hinder tucs. Tt drives a larj^-e series of tunnels into tli>'
bank, brinichini4' out in various directions, and haviui;' scm rui
entram-es. all of which open uii(b'r the surface of the watrr,
If the aniinal hap[»ens to live upon a marshy and unifdiiiilv
wet s(»il. it bi'coiiies a i)uilder, and lives in curiously ((in-
structed huts, from three to tour f«H't in height, ])last('rid
with ^•l•eat neatness in the inside, and streuii'theued <>xteni;i!lv
Avith a kind (»f basket-work of rushes, carefully interliKcl
toLj-ether. The judi^inent of the animal shows itself in tli'
selection of the site, invariably choosiiin' some "frouud iibcV'
the reach of inundation, or else raisiny* its hut on an artilici;!'
fomidat ion : for, tlioiiui'll obli^^'ed to reside near Hat. siil-
merLi'eil banks, whei'e the soft soil is full vi' nourishing' V""i^-
it riMjuires a dry home to rest in.
Fii winter the mus(piash villau'es- — f(U' the huts are >('iii' •
times built in such numbers tou'»>ther as to deserA'e that iiiiiii
— are ^^ciuu-ally c(tvered with thick snow, under \\lii(li tli>
ro(h'nt is able to j»rocure wat(U", or to reach the 2»ro\i>i"i''
laid up in its storehouse. Thus it lives in ease and jilciity.
for the marten is too averse to the "water, and the otter t^'
bulky, to jtenetrate into its tunnels. ]>ut when tlie sue"
melts, and tlie huts of the miis(piash appear above the Lireiiii'l.
tlu^ Indian, takiiie- in his hand a h\V'j;(' four-barbed >ii(;ii'.
steals up to t lie liou>e. and 'Iriviii;^' his wea[»ou t liroiiuh ''
TIIK .MrS(MASir.
35.:
ovvitor'us.
ion liiinll.v
ivor cli'u'lly
ir the banks
f a ivAtlish-
iio-or bvotli'i'
at any ii'i"''''^
^-os Nvith <ini-
i coiin(H-t tin
ai'ls ini'» ^'''
laviniJi; srvfi';il
of the ^vatl r.
ai\<"l nnitoiMiil}
L'uvionsly i<'ii-
lii, plast.'iva
(>a (^xtcviKill;
lly intcvVair'l
itself in 1^"'
.■roniul nl^'V'
,n anavtiluM'i'
leav tlal. snl.-
uvisliiii'^" v""'^-
uts avf >"i"'-
■wo ili-at iiaii;
walls, is sure lo jiicrcc the animals insiil<\ lloMin^- the spear
liniily with one liainl. lie takes liis tctiiialiauk I'miii liis l»elt,
dashes the house to pi(H'es ami secures the iimiat rs. Another
method enij>loye<l hy the Indians to eapture the mns(|nash, is
tiihlock uj) the (liflerent entrances to their tunnels, and then
to intercept t lie animals as they ti'v to eseape. Sometimes
the ^ain is used, hut not very frequently, as the mus()uash is
so wary, that it dives at the least alarm, and darts into one
(>[' its holes. The traj», however, is th(» ordinary means of
destruction. The soft and j^lossy fur of the mus(|uash,
tliouti-h wor
th
no more than from (I*/, to !>«/., is still a not
inconsiderahle article of trade, as no less than half a million
US are annually imjiorted into l*]n<;"land for liat mal<i
no*
iiei' is there any fear of the nnisijuash bpinn" extirpated, in
spite of its many enemies, as it nniltiplies very fast, and
is found near every swamp or lake with grassy hanks, as far
as the eonfines (d'lhe P(dar Sea.
J...C.. „i,ai.
A \ J
CHAPTER XXVI rr.
TKK (KKK INDIANS, (»K EYTlIlNYrWl' K".
Tlio various Tribes of tlic d'cis — 'J'Ik ir Coiii|Ui>-l.>- and >.uli>(quriit ])ii'(al- i i
Wars witii tlio lilackfci t — Tlicii' ('li.u'aftcr — TattiMiiii^' -Their Dress-Fomli
for liieii- Clilldren - Tile Cree Cradle - Vapmir I!atlis flames — Tiieir veli::;
Ideas 'I'iie Cree 'I" irtariis aiii
Kh
ri'^HE various ti'ibos of tlio Creos, or Eytliinvmvnk, riitiu'
I
from the Rocky Mountains and the plains of tli
(' Mis-
katchowaii to the swampy shores of l[udson's Bay. To\v;ii<l>
the west and north they border on the Tinne, towards tin'
east and south on the Ojibbeway or 8auteurs, who bi'li'iii:'
like them to the ^-reat famih' of the Lenni-lenape Indiiitis.
and inhabit the lands between Lake Winipog- and Laki'
Superior.
About sixty years since, at the time when Napoli"ii
was deluo-ing Euro2>e with blood, the Crees likewise ])lii.vi'(l
the part of contiuerors, and subdued even more exleusivf.
thoup,'h less vahiable domains.
Provi'b'fl wifb rire-ariiis, wbich at that tiiiirwerc uiil<ii""ii
\v.\i5s (V Tin: ( ni:i:s.
;io7
fMP'^'-''--'-
vnvnl<. vunu-''
of tho Sas-
y. Towaril>
a\>('
Tn<nan>.
1 Lak.
illKI
'11
Kai
»ii
Iron
'NVISC
ox
avi'ii
U'U>i
>rt'
\iii
IsU'
vc
,\V1I
to llii'lr in>ith('i-ii and Avt'strrn iiciy'liboiii's, tlirv inlviiiictMl
lis far as the Arctic Circle, iiii|M»siiiy' tribute on the various
trilx's ut'the Tinm''. liut their triumphs were not luore Jurubh.'
than those (tf the «4'roat FiUrojtean c»»n(juer<tr.
The sinall-}M>x bi'oke <»ut anion^' them and swept them
awav l>v thuusunds. JNIeaiiwliile tlie Tinne tribes had n;-
mained untouchi'd by this terrilde scour^v ; and as theayvnts
<if the Hudson's iJav Company, a<lvancin''' further and further
V 1 ft ~
til the west and n(»rth, had likewisi' nnnle them ar(|uainted
with the use of tire-arms, thcv in tlieir turn bccMuie the
iiLii^ressors, and drove the Crees b«'foi'e them. Their former
(■nn(|uerf>rs now partly min'rate^l to thi' south, and leavini; the
I'nicst region, wliere they had hunted the reimU'er and the
(Ik, spread over the prairies of the Saskatchewan, whore,
iiH'unted on liorsoljack, they nctw pursued the lierds of bison.
lint in their new abodes they became enyai^'ed in constant
feuds with their new neighbours the Assiniboins and Jiiack-
tirt. Avlio of course resented their intrusion.
The romance in which tlio manners and character of tlie
linlians are portrayed nii^'ht lead us to attribute to those;
[Muple a loftiness of soul for which it would be vain to look
ill the present day, an«l which without much scei»ticism wo
'nay assert they never really possessed. Actions, prompted
I'lily by the caprice of a l>arbarous people, have boon con-
sidered as the results of rotinod sentiment ; and savayo
emiuin^', soon through the false medium of i)rejudiee, assumed
tlie nobler proportions of a, far-sig'hted policy. Ihit though
the history of the wars of the Indians among- themselves and
with the Europeans ati'ords but foAv instances of heroism, it
aKeunds in traits of revolting enielty. and in jiictures of in-
ileseribablo wretchedness.
A largo party of Blackfeet once made a successful loray
ill the territory of the Crees. Hut meanwhile the latter sur-
I'vised the camp whore the aggressors had loft their wives
and children ; and thus, when the lilackfeet returned to their
tints, thoy found desolation and death where they loc»kod
t'lr a joyful welcome. In their despair thev cast awav tlioir
aims an4 their booty, and retired to the mountains, whore for
three days and nights they wailed and moui-nod.
ill the year 1810 a bloody war broke (»ut between the
3a!«
Till': I'OLAK UtiKLD.
CriM's inxl ilit' l>l!i('l<rt'('t, jirisinu' iis in u't'iit'iMl IVinii a vt'i'V
trilliiiii' ciiiisc. IN-iico wiiHiit lrii;^lli ctuK'ludtMl, l)ul wliilf tlif
two iiutidiis wti'c ct'lt'linitiiin- this lorliiiiiilr fvciit willi ;^iiiiHs
and I'iK'cs, ii Crt'c stole i\ Vii^'^cd hlaiikt't, iiiid a iit'W li^lit
iiiiincdiatclv bcoiiii. lietiii'Miiii>' lioiiic the IJlacKit't't met ;i
Crcc cliicl'taiii with two of his warriors iiiid kiliod them after
a short altereatioii. Soon after the Crees surprised and
luurderetl soiiu.' of the Hhiekfeet, and thus the war ra^vd
Hi(»ro furiously than ever. Sir (Jeor^-e Sinipsiiu, who was
travtdliu^' throu^li tlii' eountry at the time, visited the hut
of a C'ree who laid heeu wouudetl iu theeoullict at the peaci-
meetiu|4'. As iu iiis tli;_;ht la; heut over his liorse's ueek. a
hall had stnu'k hiui ou the rif^'lit side, aud reuiaiued stiekinu'
ut.'ar the artieulatiou of the left shoulder. In this eouditi<>ii
he had already lain for three and thirty days, his left arm
frightfully swollen, aud the rest of his hody euuiciated to.i
skeleton. Near the dyiu^" sava^'O, whosi' glassy eye and con-
tracted features spoke of the dreadful pain of which he di>-
dained to s[>eak, hiy his child, reduced to skin and hones,
and e\pressiu<jf by a [»erpetual moaning- tlie pane's of ill-
ness aud hun^'er, while most to be pitied perhaps of this
wretched familv was the wife aud mother, who seemed t'l
be siukin;4" under the double load of care and faliuuc.
During- tlie ni<»'ht the * mediciue-num ' was busy beatiiiii'
his ma^ic drum and driviun' away the evil spirits from the
hut.
AlthoUL»'h the Crees show ^reat fortitude in euibuiii'j
hunger aud the other <.'vils incident to a hunter's life, vet
any unusual aci-ideut dispirits them at once, and they
seldom venture to meet their enemies iu open Avarfare, w
even to surprise them, unless they have a i^i-eat advantiiu'c
in point of numbers. Instances <jf personal brav(.'ry like tlnit
of the Esquimaux are rare indeed among them. Supcrier
in personal appearance to the Tinne, they are less honest,
and thoum'li perhaps not so much yiven to falsehood as tlie
Tinne, are more turbulent and more prompt to invade the
rights of their c(.»antrymen, as well as of neiL>hbt>urino- nations.
Tattooinjiif is almost universal amon*^ them. The women
are in general content with having one or two lines drawn
frt»m the corners of the mouth t(»wards the any'les of the
II.M'.ITS ol" TIIK ( KKKS.
A V.)
\\\ il Vi'l'V
wliilc ill.'
itll '^••■lliirs
lU'W tii^lit
.('t iiu't a
hem at'tt'V
risctl ami
war ra'^i'.l
, who \v;is
I'd tlu' lint
the i>t'ar. -
e's iH't'l<. ;i
s eoiuliti""
is U't't arm
iciatod to :i
ye and ouii-
ik'h lu' 'li>-
aud boiH's,
)iui«j,'s of ill-
)S of this
seeint'"^ t'l
id fatii^uc.
sy beatiiiii'
j from the
lap
■ wcr Jaw, lull suiiic of ihc hd'Ii liiisr Ihfir li.nji. -; ruvi-r'-il
with lilies and liyiin
II
SCClllS to
ItC CI I
iisiilcr.'il l»v must
i.itliiT as a, [irodf ol' I'oiiraL;"*' than an oriiaiiH'iit. as the
<<|M'riitioM is Ixitli ]»ainl'iil and tcdiniis. The lin*'s on tin'
I;mi' art' foniH'd hy dt-xti'i'misly niniiiii^" an awl niid«'r
iIm' fiitirlt", and llim drawiiin' a cord, <li|>|icil in cli;irco;il
I water, tliroiiyh the ciiniil t liMs foniicil. 'I'hi- |Miiiit iircs
nil the body iire made Ity needles (»!' Mirioiis si/es, set
iVame. A nnmher of liawk-liells attached to this
.'I IK
III a
IV line
S(
■rve, bv their noise, ti
iver the ^Toaii?
.f th.
IS
siitfcrer, and [>robal»ly foi' the same rensoii the |iroct
;ii( oiiqiimied with sini^-iii;^-. An indelihic st;iiii is iiroduced
li\ nibbiny a little rmoly-l»<»wdei'ed w illow-(diarcoal into the
|iiiiiitiire. A half-breed, whose arm wiis am|iiitat''d by Sir
.Inliii Richardson, decdared that tattooing- was not only the
iin'i'e painful opei'ation of the two, bnt rendered, intinitelv
iiKH'e dirtiiMilt to be'ar by its tedioiisness, having' lasted, in
his case.
throe di
I vs.
Til" Creos are also fond of jiaintiny their faci-s with vei--
iiiiljoii and i-harcoiil. In <j;vneral the dress of the mule consists
"f a lilank«'t thrown over the shoulders, a leathern shirt or
jukct, and a [liece of cloth tied round the middle. 'I'lie
woiiieii have inathlition a lon<4" judticoiit, and botli sexes wenr
.1 kind of wide hose, which, roachin;^' from the ankle to the
Idle of the thig'h, are suspen(h'd by strin^-s to the girdle.
>r ' Indian stocking's,' are coiiniionlv ornamented
mil
icse Hose, <
itll hi>ii(b'
ih
d fl
th
h
b
nili l)i>ii(ls or I'lhands, and trom tlieir coinenieiice nave been
uiiivcrsiilly a»h>]ttt.Ml by the wliite residents, as an essenti.il
j'lirt of their winter-clothing;'. Their shoes, or rather soft
'""•ts i,f(>r they tit? round the aiik'le\ ai'e made of dressed
iii'Mtse-skins ; and durini^' the winter they wrap several pieces of
''laiikct round their feet. Th(>y are fond ot' Miiropean ai'tidi's
"t' di'css, such as g-reat-coats. .>li;iwls, iiiid culicocs, which,
i'"Wev.'r showy they may l)e at lirst. are soon reduced to a
"I'V filtliv condition by their cust<tm of ^'re;lsin;4• the face
lid luiir with soft fat or marrow. This [a-jKdice they say
!!'"scrves the skin soft, and protects it from cold in the
'•inter and the mosquitoes in summer ; bnt it renders tladr
M'l'sciiee disaii'veeable to Europeans who mav chance to be
■■;itc(l near them in a close tent and near a hot tire.
3(10
Tin: Vi)\..\\l WnIM,l>.
TIk' Crcc WMiiicii iirc in>l in «'<'iiriiil titMtctl Imi'slily liv
Ihcir 1misI)iiii(Is : a ;4;r('iit juii't of tlic lalKtiir. Iiitwrsn-. liills id
tlio lot ot'tlic wil't'. She makes tilt' liul, cooks, drcssi-s tlic skiii>.
and for the ino.st part carries tlu- hcavit'sl load ; l»Ht wlifii >lif
is unable to [(crforni her task, the hiishand does not eonsidti
it hiMu.'atli his di<4iiity to assist her.
The Crees are I'xtreniely indul<,'cnt t(» tlidr cliihh'iii.
Tlui father never eluistises them ; and the mother, thou.,'li
nicjre hasty in lier temper, seldom bestows a blow on n
troid)les(»nn; child.
The cradU' in us«' am(»n^' them is well adapted to tln'ii
mode of life, ai:d is one of their neatest articles of fiirnitiin'.
bein^' ^'enerallv ornamented with beads an<l Idts of scarlri
cloth, but it bears a very stroiif^- resemblance in its form tea
mummy-case. The infant is placed iu this ba;^-, havin;;' it>
lower extremities wrai»ped u]» in soft spha^iiium or bo;^'-iii(is>.
and may bo hun<;' up in the tent, or to the bran(di of a tivt.
without the least (hni<4'(»r of tumbliun^' out; or in a jonrinv
may be suspended on the mother's baclv, l)y a l)and wliicli
crossi's the foreliead so as to leave her hands free. Tli''
s[)ha^num forms a soft elastic bed, which absorbs moistmv
very readily, and ait'ords such a protection fr(»m the wiiittr
cold, that its place would be ill suitplied by any otliti
material.
The ordinary wij^'wams, skin tents, or 'lod^-cs' of tli-
Tiuiu' and Crees are exactly alike in form, beiny extendol
on poles set up in a conical numner; but as a oeuoral lulr
the tents of the latter are more commodious and more f'lv-
(piently supi)lied with a fresh lining of the spray of the bal.-^;iiii
fir. They also occasionally erect a lar;^'er dwellin;^' of latlirr
work, covered with birch-bark, in which forty men (»r inon'
can assemble for feastin«^-, debating-, or performing- soiiit'dt
their reliu'ious ceremonies. The entire nation of the Evtliiii-
yuwuk cultivate oratory more than their northern nciuli-
boiirs, who express themselves more simply and far k»
fiuentlv.
Vapour baths are in common use with the Crees, and i'lU'ii
one of the chief remedies of their medicine-men. Tlu'
operator shut?- hinihielf up with liis patient iu the >iii;ill
< KKi: smirrs.
3Gl
lunslily I'.v
■stht' skills,
lit wIk'U sill'
int COHsiiltT
ir cliiltlnn.
Ih'V. tlloU'ill
liltiw *'U a
1.1' i'liniUtnv.
ts of sc;irlrl
its lorin t<« ii
;•, hiiviii'^' ii>
or b(ii;'-uit»s>.
U'll of ii ti'''-
1 liiiutl wli'uli
lis t'n'c. Til-'
[•l)s nioistniv
u Uu' wiiitn
anv "tlii'i'
ovs' ••!■ th"
■iiiy extc'iiAcJ
ti'ciiornl 1'"'''
iiul niovt' liv-
lii\u- (.fliitli''''
men ov inovi'
iinuo- st'iiit' I't
)f the Evthiii-
■tlu'vn iit'i^'^'-
and fav K'>>
iocs, aiiA form
-men.
ill llu'
^iu;i
■.ui'alin;^'-li<»nst', in uliicli rfil-lint sluncs lu-- priiiKlitl with
uattT, ami having" a few leaves of a species of |iniinis sti'e\ve<l
iiroiiial them, prtxhiee ii thiinp atiMos|)li(>re of a stitlin.;' heat,
;iiiil shani)Mios him, sin^^in^' all the t inif a kiinl <>f liviiin. As
|nii;jf as the medieiiieiiian can hold out. so 1oiim- imist tlie
jiatieiit endure the intense heat of the l»ath, and then, if the
invalid he ahle to move, they hoth )iliin^'e into the river. If
tin' [tatient does not recover, lie is at least more sjieedily vv-
Iciised from his sutt'erint^s hy this powerful remedy.
'I'lie C'l'ees are a vain, li( l<le, improvident, indolent, and
ludicrously h(»ast fill race. They are als<» ^reat n'aiulders, lait,
instead of cards <»r dice, thi'y play with the stones t.f a species
ef iininiis. The dilliculty lies in e-nessin;;" tlie numher of
stones which are tossed out of a small wooden dish, and the
liiiiiters >vill spend wlude nii^dits at this destructive spoi't,
stiikin^" their most valuaVde artitdes. Tla-y have, liowever, a
much more manly amusement termed the ' cross,' alt houL;h
tliey do not en;j;-ae-e even in it \vith(»ut dei»ositin«j;'considerahle
slakes. An extensive meadow is chosen for this sjiort, and tlie
articles staked are tied to a post, or deposite<l in the custody
of two ohl men. Thecondjatantshein^-stri[)pe<l and painted,
and each provith'd with a kind of racket, in sliajte resemhliu^-
the letter P, with a handle about two feet lone-, and a head
leiisely 'Nvrou^'ht with network, so as to form a shallow ba;^",
tauLi'e themselves on diiferent sidi's. A ball bein;^' now tossed
lip in the middle, each ptirty endeavours to drive it to their
ivs[»(>ctive goals, and much dexterity and ae-ility is disjdayed
ill the contest. AVheu a nimble runner yets the ball in his
'/■"^x, he sets oil' towards the e-oal with the utmost speed, an«l
is followed by the rest, who endeavtmr to jostle him and
shake it out, but, if hard [>ressed, he discharj^^es it with a jerk,
to lie forwarded by his own party, or bandied back by their
eii[iouents until the victory is decided by its passine; the
g-oal.
Xeitlior the Esquimaux nor the Tinnt'' have any visible
"hjects of worship, but the Crces carry with them small
Wooden fie-ures rudely carved, or nuTcly the tops t»f a few
willow-bushes tied too-ether, as the representatives of a mali-
tiou,>, or at least capricious being, called Kepoocliikann.
.'102
Till", roi,.\i{ \V(n;i,i).
Tlu'ir most roDinion i><.'(itl<>n to this liciiii;' is tor [tlcnlv (.('
food, l)ut iis tlu'V <!(> not tnist t'litirt'lv to liis tavoiir, tl
i<'\-
III!
IMt
('iHlc:iv<iiir ;it the saiiK.' liiiio to propitiate the (iiiiunil,
imaniiiarv re[>res(,'iitative of tlie whole nice of larj^er <|U;
riipeds that are ohjV'cts of the chase.
Tli.aioli (>t't<M! referrinf4" to tlie Kitche-iiiaiiilo, tlie " (Ir
S|»irit ' or ' Master of Life,' they do not believe that he <'a
for his creatures, and consequently never think of i)rayiiin- t^
him. They have no lej^'end about the creation, but they sjicjik
of a deluti'e caused l>y an attempt of thetish to drown Woesark-
<»otchacht, a kindof denu-«4'od, with whom they had quarrell'il.
Jlavin^L;" constructed a raft, this Ix'iu^' embarked with lii>
fanuly and all kintls of birds and beasts. Alter the' 11 1
had continued for s<nne time, he ordered several waterfowl \n
dive to the bottom. Thev were all drowned; but a niusk-r;it.
dispatched on the same errand, returned with a mouthful nf
mud, out of which Woesack-ootchacht, imitating- the mode in
which the rats construct their hou
ses.
formed a new eartii.
First a small conical hill of mud appeared above the watci-;
by and by, its base g'radually spreading- out, it became an r.\-
tensive l)ank, which the rays of the sun at length hardi'i"<l
into firm land. Xotwithstandin^* the power that AVoesack-
ootchacht here displayed, his person is held in very littli'
reverence by the Indians, who do not think it worth while tn
make any etfort to avert his wrath.
Like the Tinne, the Crees also have a Tartarus and ;iii
Elysium. The soids of the de])arted are obliged to seraiiil'l.'
with i^reat labour up the sides of a steep mountain, u[ion ,i!-
tainin;4-the summit of which, they are rewarded with tlu^ ])i"-
pect of an extensive ]>lain abounding' in all sorts of oame. ami
interspersed here and there ^vith new tents, pitched in pleasant
situations. "Whilst they are absorbed in the cont<'mpliit
of this deliu-htful scene, thev are descrie<l bv the inhal>ita
lull
\\U
of the happy land, wdio, clothed in new skin-dn.'sses, appriuhl
and welcome, with every demonstration of kindness, tlinsi
Indians who have led -^'ood lives, but the bad Indians ait
told to return from whence they came, and without nioi':
ceremonv are liurltMl down the
precipice.
As yet Christianity has made but little progress anionytho
(»!' [tli'Iilv «.f
favour, tlir\
iir<^'('r (juail-
, tllC • ( ii'lMl
luit lie call s
t" praying- to
tlll'V S|ir;ik
11 AVot'saik-
[ (jUaiTrlli'il.
(I with liis
iV tllti 11 1
vjitcrtowl t'i
a iniisk-r;if.
llOlllllt'llI p1'
the iiK.nlc Ml
new earlii.
the water:
•iiiue an r.\-
h hardt'ih'l
t AVdi'sark-
very Httle
•til whili' tn
I'ROfiKKSS OK CIIIMSTIA.VI
rv
363
FihI
'^"is of Jintisl, Xc.rtli All
I'CII
III
'i'"''^ to tlu' Ojibbewajs of Lai
"iil'er of the CVees cf the jfiuh
ll-fed 8a lite 11 rs of fl
•erica, ils benefits heiiio- l,itl„.,.t
<>
♦' Huron, and to a
siiial
Wi
I ■Oliver
lo \V
on s Bay territ
or
■y. Tl
le
toil a.s the bnffalo hunt
unpen- are as (lisiiielined to be
t'l's of the prairies.
rus am! ;iii
to sera nil lie
11, U[)i>li :it-
th the jnMs-
'o'ame. aii'l
ill pira-aiit
itenipliitidii
inhaltitaiits
?, approarli
iiess, thiisi'
ndiaiis iwv
hout inert'
ainoim' till'
Tlio Rocky Moudlains, at the bci.d of tlic Mackonzje.
CIIAITEK XXIX.
T II K
TINXK IXDIAXS.
s Tril.
-DrtilV
t' tlh' Tililir lliili:lll>-
■Tlu' Dcu; i;il.>-<'l.,i!iiiiLr- 'I In II.
<li(l Slalt
il 111.
AV
illKil
I'nictical
•iali>t>— L'
l,ll';i'-''l —
('riirliv to till' .\t:('il and Intinii.
rpill] Timie Indians, Avliost' various tribes ranu'O tViuii il
1
Lower Mackenzie to tlie I'pl'i'r Saskateliewan. iun!
from New Caledonia to the iiead of Cliesti'riiekl inlet, eiciipy
a considerable part of the territories of the Hudson's Ii;i}
C^)lnpany. To their race belong- the 8troiiobo\vs ef lli-'
Kocky Mountains; the Beaver Indians In'tween Pcmv
River and the west branch of tlie Marken/,ie: ilw iJ''!
Knives, thus named from the copper knives of wliiili lli'ii'
native ores furnish the materials, and who roam between tli''
Great Fish River and the Coppermine; the llai'e liiili;ni'
■who inhabit the thickly-w'ooded district of the ^MarkfU/ii'
from Slave Lak<^ downwards ; the Doy- Ribs wlio <ic(iipv tli'
inland country on the east, from Martin Lake to tlie <'"'!'-
permine ; the Athabascans who frequent the Elk ami Si
Rivers, and numy other tril)es of inferior note.
;lV'
The Tinne, in u'cneral, have more reii'idar ieat
urc:
iia;
Tin: tinm: i,\[>ia.\.<.
•M\5
lulllillil- 'I'lli- ll'l''
ilist: Cliarip-M-
iiHLi'O IVmii ill''
|ltrli('\V;Ui. a;i'l
I Inlet, t'ccui')
Hud son's Hiiv
|l^l)()\VS dt" ill''
letwceii P<';>''''
li/.it' : 111'' 1''''
r \vliirli tli''ii'
111 Ix'tWfi'll ill'
Han' iinliiiii^
llhe :Miirk«'ii/.i''
]l(» occUlA til''
!<<> to 111'' *'"'!'■
Elk au.l Slav.'
teutuiv> til'"'
til'' Ksquimanx, and, taken on tlio Avliole. oxluMl all the
1 liaraeteristics of the Red races dwelling;' farther south;
luit their utter disrepird of eleanlinoss and their ahjet-t
luliaviour (for wlien in tlie eoni]»any of -white people they
ixliihii the wlune and air of inveterate mendicants) Li'ive
thrill a Avretcdu'd apiioaraneo. JNlaekenzie, tiie Hrst Kuro-
]ioaii who heranie acquainted with the Doy* J?ihs, describes
tliciu as an u^ly emaciated triht», covered Avitli dirt and
lii'Sineared with fjTcase from head to foot. jNlore than sixty
vt'ars liave passed since Mackenzie's journey, but his account
nf tliem is true t<» the present day. The Avonien are even
iiU'licr and more lilthy than the men, for the latter at least
[laiiit their nnwashed faces and wear trinkets on festive
luasions, while the females leave even their hair with(»nt
iny ether dressiuLV than wiping" their e-roasy hands on tlie
matted locks, Avhen they have been rubbing- their bodies with
marrow, lae clothing' of tlie men in summer consists of
niiideer leather dressed like shammy, which, when newly
maile, is beautifully white and sott. ' A shirt of this mate-
rial.' says Sir John Kichardson, to whom we aiv indebted for
till' best account of the various nations inliabitin<>- the Ifud-
-"u's Tiny territory, ' cut evenly below, reaches to the middle ;
tilt' ends of a piece of cloth secured to a waist-band han^-
'li'Wii before and behind; the hose, or Indian stockinf«'s, de-
't'lid from the top of the thio-h to the ankle, and a pair of
'!!"( iissins or shoes of the same soft leather witli tops whi(di
i 'Id round the ankle, complete the costume. WluMi tlio
iiuiiter is equipped for the (diase he wears, in addition, a
^tri|i(' of white Uare-skin, or of the belly part oi' a deer-skin,
ill a liandana round the head, witli his lank, bhudc elf-locks
^trt'iiiuino- from beneath ; a shot pouch suspended by an em-
I'l'i'ldcrcd belt, a tire-ba^' or tobiicco-pou(di tu(dce<l into the
-irilli', and a lonu" foAvlinu'-niece thrown carelesslv across tlie
inn. or balanced on the back of the nerlc. The several
'ii'iidi's here enumerated are ornamented at tbi.' seams and
ii'iiis with leather thon;_;s wound round with porcujtine
'i'iill>. (ir more or less embi-oidered with beatl-worl<. according-
'" til., industry of the wife or wives. One <jf the youn;^' men.
'Vtii of the slovenly Do^- Iv'ibs, when newly equipped, and
I
86G
TIIK I'OI.AK WORLD.
tripj»in;4' jiimitily "Vt'i" tlic iiictssv utouikI ^vitll iin cliislic stt|i.
displays his slim iuid in»l uii^riiecful fif^'urc to adviiiitiiL;'.'.
lint this fiiio dross once donned is iicilln'v laid aside iiur
clonned while it lasis, and s<»on aeqnires a din""-}' h^ok and
an odonr which l)otra_ys its owner at some distance. In the
canii) ii fi^roasy blanket of En^-lish rnannfacture is Avorn over
the shonlders by day, and forms with the clothes the bedding
by ni^'-ht.'
In winter tliev clothe themselves with moose or reindeer
skins, retaining' the hair, Avhile a larj^-e robe of the same iiui-
teriid is thrown over the shoulders, and hand's down to tlif
feet in place of the blanket. The women's dress resemhlcs
the men's, but the skirt is somewhat lon^'or, and g-enernllv
accompanied by a petticoat which reaches nearly to tlir
knee. The form of dress her(^ describe<l is common to tin
whole Tinne nation, and also to the Crees, bnt the matcriiil
varies with the district. Thns moose-deer, red-deer, iiml
bison leather are in nso iimonn' the more southern ainl
western trilx'S, and the Jfare Indians make their skirts ut
the skins of the anin)al fnnn whi(di they derive their surniiiiii'.
As this, however, is too tender to be used in the ordinary wnv.
it is torn into narrow strips twisted slio-htly, and iilaitcil
or worked into the reqniretl shape. Such is the closeiit'o
iHud fineness of the fur, that these hare-skin dresses ar-
exceeding'ly warm, notwithstanding the looseness of tlitir
texture.
The Hare Indian and Dog Kib women are certainlv ;it
the bottom of the scale of humanity in Nortli America. Xot
that they are treated with cruelty, but that they are leolciil
upon as inferior Iteings, and in this belief the}' themselves m-
quiesce. In early infancy, the boy discovers that he may shew
any amount of arrogance towards his sisters, Avho, as seen ;i-
they can walk, are harnessed to a sledge, while the tiny liinitti
struts in his snow* shoes after the men and apes their eeii-
tempt of the women. All the Avork, except huntini:' aii'l
lishing, falls to tlu'ir share; yet they are in general not ili>-
contented with their lot.
It would be vain to look among the Dog Ribs for tli''
stoicism popularly attributed to the Indians, for they slivink
TiiK i>(»(i j:iij
3«7
1 elastic stt'p.
() advantiii,'''.
i<l iisid*' iiHi'
ll<rV look illlil
nice. In "i''
is worn over
s tlic beddiiiu'
;(^ or n>iiiil<'i'i'
the sann' iii;i-
s clown to tlir
•ess reseiiil>li'>
and genev:illv
nearly to tlir
nnmou to tin
it the material
red -deer, iiu'l
sonthern aii'l
their slcivts <A
their HurnimH'.
' ordinary way.
y, and ]iliiit(''l
the elost'iK'-^
in dresses av''
HMioss of tluii'
aneriea.
i-e certninly at
nre liteld'il
Ithemselves !U-
it he may slie\v
rho, as smm a-
the tinv
liuuit'i'
Ipei
their
Cell-
hnntiiiL;- ii'i
il
l(niera
1 u.
(11-
t»r
Ribs for th
thev slain
I I'll!
;il'i'
eai
II jiiiiii, shed Tears readily, iiiid iii'o very timorous; hut
youiii4" and old, enjoy a joki' hoiirtily, and when youn;^'
lively and cheerful. When hands of their niitiou meet
h oilier after a lon^- abseiiee, they perform ii 1<ind of
(hiiice. A pieee of ^'round is eleiired ior the ])uriio.sc. nnd
llii' (hiuee fre(]nently lasts lor {\V(» or tliree diiys. the piirlies
rdievinn' eiieh other us they L;'et tiretl. The two hiinds com-
iiinice ihe dane<» Avith their hiicks turned to eiudi other, the
iiMli\ iduiils fidlowiiii^' one iiuother in ludiuii lile, und hoMinu"
ilie liow in th(» lel't lumd, iind iin urrow in the riL;ld. They
roieh ol»li(|Uely ufter nuniy tnrns, jind when the tw(»
aiip
liaiids ure closely hiudv to back, they feioii to see ciich other
for the llrst time, iind the bow is insiiintly triinsferr(>d to the
riulil hand and the arrow to the left, si^-nifs iuii' that it is
iiei their intention to use them a^'uinst their li'iends. Their
(laiiciu;:;', which they iiecom[»!iny by a cIkumis of <4'r»)ans, coni-
I'ared by 8ir John Kitdiiirdson fo tdie deep sii^h of a [civiour
IS he innifi's ins I'amnier UoAvn ni»on the puvenu'n
V
th
V
It. 1
las not
\\u
least [)retensions to rrrace : their Knees and body are half
l»iit. and from their heavy stam[)in^', they appear as if
-ll'ol
IS of sinlcin^' into the t^ronnd.
The Don' Ribs are practical socialists, ami their wretched
cnihlition results in a L4'reat measure from this cause. All
may avail themselves of the produce of a hunter's ener^'v or
skill, and do ]iot even leave him the distribntion of his own
uaiiie. AVhen it lieconu'S knoAvn in a camp that deer have
lici'ii killed, the old men and wonnui of each faniilv sallv
t; <v\
I \v
liWlK
ri'ilit
ith their sledu'es and divide the (luai'i'v. lea\in<>- the
■r nothing' bnt the ribs and t(»nti'ne all he can claim of
rnabk' to I'estrain their a[i}»etite. all the coniniunltx
a>i
in times of al>nndance. ho\ve\e
lilll
nianx' o
f th
iiii'ii Iind there are n(»t a few idle ones) may have com riluiti'd
le counn(»n ^'Ood. TaULl'ht by frefjUent sufferin;_;'s, the
tu 1
111'
ive luniters frequently Avithdraw fr<uii the worthh
<lruiii's. leavinL*" them at some lishiny-statioii, where, with
lui'iM']' iiabistrv, thev nniv snljsist eomfortablv. ••''ish-diet
lHi\V(
ver, not aereealtle to their taste, an<l as soon as r
e-
|"iris ol' ii successful ehase arrive, a i;-eneral nioveiueut to
tile luuitin'>--i''ronnd ensues. If on their march the erasing;'
HM
TIIK I'm, All \V<»IJM).
iiuiltitiidt' discovi'i' a lutiird of iiiciit. it is devoured on llir
spot; ])n\ they are not iilways so fortunate. The dtM-r ainl
the limders may have <^<ni>' oif, and then thoy are obli<^-e<l \n
retrace tlieir stejts, many peri.shiny by the way.
The Doj;- Ribs are not conspicuous for hospitality. Wlitu
a stranger enters a tent he receives no -welcome and protJ'er
of food, thon<4li he may help himself from a piece of meat
han^nn;^' on the wall, or j(»in the repast. Thouo-h ^rcat
liars, they do not steal the white man's property like the
Es(juimaux and (^'cm's, and when visitin;^' a fort, they may \n'
trusted in any of the rooms. As to their relij^'ions belicl'.
the majority of the nation recoj^-nise a Great Spirit, while
others doubt his existiMice, assigning' as a reason their
miserable condition. They are in <j;:reat fear of evil spirits,
which, as they imai^ine, assume the forms of the bear, wolf, a ml
wolverine, and in the woods, waters, and desert -places, tliev
fancy they hear them howling in the winds, or moaning hy
the graves of the dead. They never make oflFerings to the
Great Spirit, but de})recate the wrath of an evil being by tin'
])romise of a sacrifice, or by scattering a handful of deer-
hair or a few feathers. They believe in a state of future
happiness (tr torment. The soul, after death, crosses ;i
broad river in a Vioat, and thus endeavours to reach tho
opposite shore, which is adorned with all the beauties of
l)aradise. If laden with crime, the boat sinks imder tlie
weight, and the unfortunate soul, 'mmersed in water,
strives in vain to reacli the blissful abode from which it i>
for ever banishe<l.
Formerly when a Tinne warrior died, it was customary for
the family to abandon every article they possessed, ami
betake tlu>mselves, in a perfectly destitute condition, to the
nearest body of their own people or trading post. The
advice of traders is gradually breaking down this absurd
practice, which would alone sutKce to keep this people in ;i
state of i)erpetual ]>overty. Tn other respects also European
influence begins t<,> make itself felt. Since 18M), Koiiiau
Catholic missionaries are at work among the Chepewyaiis.
and have taught many of their converts to read and write.
The Athaljnscans had formerly but a small breed of d^ii^.
now a stouter race has, in some res]»eets, ameliorated the ii'i)-
TIIK TIXXK.
3C9
vt\ on <1"'
iXovY '.mil
l^V. Whrn
and protVi r
CO oi liifiit
•ty like tlu'
hey iiiiiy !»'
;i()US )>t'li''t'.
pivit, Avliil''
cason their
evil spirits,
ar, wolf, and
■phices, tlu'v
inoiuiiiv^' l»y
l-ilio-s to the
bein};- l\v tln'
llul of (Itvr-
,te of futur.'
I, crosses II
o reaeli tli-^
beauties t'f
s inider tin'
in water,
Avhicli it i>
liistoinav
1.
^sesse<
V till'
anil
it 1011,
1M)S
to ill'
t. Th
tl
us
peoi
Iso
ihsunl
oi)le ill ;i
x'aii
Enrol
■K), Roman
"heptMvyaiis,
I and Av
,rit<
^ed of doii'>
iteil the i
(lit it 111 of tlie females, and tlie intr(»dnotion of the lun'se, wliieli
has more recently ialvon place, liolds ont ]>ros])eets of a still
o'irat<'r ini]tr(>vemeni. The Tiiiiit' are as ^iddyand thonylit-
Icss as children. When accompanied by a \vliite man they
Avill jierform a lonjjf joiirne}- carei'nlly, hnt cannot lie depended
11(1011 to carry letters, however hi^h the reward may be that
liaslM'cn promised them on reaehin^i' their destination, as the
least whim sntKces to make them forget their commission.
Tlu'V are f,^enerally coutont with one wife at a time, and
HOIK' bnt the chiefs have more than two. The snceessful
wrestler takes the wife of his weaker countryman, who con-
soles himself for his loss by eiidoavoiu'inn^ to find one weaker
than himself.
Tender and affectionate parents, the Tiniie are totally in-
different to the sorrows of helpless ao'e. Dnrin<jf the stay of
Sir (l(>(»rcfe Back at Fort Reliance, an old woman arrived
there on Easter Hnnday, clothed in rao-ocd reindeer skins,
worn down to a skeleton, and o-rjispin^' Avith both her hands
a stick to support her body, bent donble by age and want.
Till' story of the poor creature was soon told. She had be-
fdinea bnrden to her family ; her former services had all Iteen
for;4otten, and she had been told, ' that thoufifh she still seemed
to live, she was in reality dead, and must be abandoned to her
fate. In the new fort she mit;'ht find assistance, for the white
straiifjers were powerfnl medicine-men.' This ha<l ha])pened
a month before, and all this time she had slowly crept aloiio-,
aiipeasins^ her hnnyer with the berries she found here and
tlicvc on the Avay. When she reached the fort it Avas too
late, she died a few days after her arrival.
oil-
•;i . ;vi .
(l''r Ml 111 . .. u i'
rilAlTllIf \\x,
TirM liOlCIIKl X, oi; KI'I'i'llIX INDIAXr
'I'lli' ('rilllltiic>> I ll(\' illll.-llli
I ~'r
irlr Api
M-aiMiicc :ui'
I);
'I'lirir I,,,vi' ut' !■■
-( "iilldit io.i ol' llir Woiiirii — Sfi'aiiL;<' f'ii--tMiii-> — Cli.-ir.u-l.r l''riiil> witli t:
l']s(Hiiiii;iu\ - I lie
diM'i' Their 1,(iiIm
if Mlsliieinll". iliul I illliil'.iil- I,i\
ir cali'liiiiL'
N tilt' biiiilvs of tlio Linvcr Miielcoiiy.ie, to tl
w \\o>
t of
nr
CJri'iit liciir L;il<<', in llic Icrrihn-ics ilviiiiit'tl by lli." 1'
River iiiul bv ibo UpjM'r Viikoi), dwell flie lioudiriix.
Kiitcbiii iiKliims, whose liin^'ii;io-e is lo(;illy dillereiit tVciii
that of the other North Aiuerieaii Iribes, ;ni<l Avhose ciisti'in-
I inaiiMers also vary eoiisiderabiv iVom Ihose of ill! thtir
aiH
lai
ncin'hbours, both Jled-slviiis iiiid Hs(iuiiii:iiix.
They are iiii aihletie iiiid fine lookiiiM- proplc. Avilli reL^iilai'
features mid a e(aii[»le.\ioii of a lii^hter copper (.'oldiir tl
that of the other Red Indians, so that many of their wnnini
wo\dd be reekonod liaiulsonie in any country. The I'einalos
tattoo their chins and use a black iriy-nient when they ]i;iint
their i'aces, Avliile the nen employ both r(>d and black oil all
TIIK KITCIIIN INDIANS.
;}71
r 1 r
L,,vc "I I'll"''
1m. lids Willi til'
tl'llillL' II' 'I'"
llor 1-11
11
10 AVi'
i\ by tli.> l'i"'l
IliiVciviit iV.'ii
ihosc
\v
itli r.
COl
tlx'iv w
'11
i.ccasiniis ofccrcjuonA*, and alwavs to bo iviidv ciich fiirrics a
siiiiill huix with rod clay and black lead snspcndcd to his
neck. Mosi conniididy the eyes ai"c encircled with black, a
strijii^ of the same rtnis down the middle (»t' the n<»se, and a
hldtch is daubed on the n[)])er part ofi'ach cheek. The fure-
li«'ad is crosstnl by many narrow red stri]»es, and the skin is
streaked alternately with red and l)lack.
The outer shirt of the Kntchin is made of the skhis of
t':i\vn reindeer, dressed with the hair on after the manner of
till' Hare, 1)(;;^- Rib, and other ('hepo\vya,n tribes, but resembles
in form the analoij;ous |jfarment of the Es(juimaux, bein<if fur-
nislied with j)eaked skirts though of smaller size. The men
wear these skirts before and behind; the w<»mon have larger
l>;i(k skirts but none in front fn winter, shirts of hare-skin
iiiv worn, and the iiantaloons of deer-skin have the fur next
tin' skill.
Xoiic of the iiei^^hbouriiii;' nations ]»ay so much attention
!n |ii rsoiial cleanliness, or are st> studious in adorning their
[Misdus. \ l)road ban<I of beads is worn across the shouhhn's
ami lii'casl of the shirt, and the hinder part of the dress is
liiiiLicd with tassels wound round with dyed [)orcu})ine quills
ami >tiMiii!4' with the silvery fruit of the oleaster [Elivntjtni^
'iriinilrii] ; a strijie of beads, struiii^' in alternate red and whitt;
S(|ii;n'('s, ornament the seams <if the trousers, and bands of
Iii'inls encircle the ankles. The poorer soi't,or the less fortu-
nate hunters, who are unal)le to procure these costly trinkets
ill the same enviable abundance as the rich, strive to wear at
I'.ist a string' <if beads, and look (h)wn \vith contemptuous
I'ity ujM.n the still more needy class, which is reduced to
a'lniii itself with porcupine ([uills only.
Ill I oiisequeucoof this passionate fondness for beads, these
'■I'li.iiuents serve as a medium of exchange anunig the Kut-
'liiii. and Sir .Tohn Kichardson remarks that n(» such near
iil'liriKirli to money has been inventc'd by the nations to the
' islwaid of the Rocky ]\rountaius. The standard bead, and
"II'' "!' the most value, is a large one of white enamel,
iiiiiuuiactm-ed in Italy only, and is with ditticulty procured in
^iillicit'iit quantity to satisfy the demand, as beads are more
I'li/.eil than English cloth and blankets.
I! n 2
372
Tlin roi-AR WOULD.
Aiiollier iirtirlf very miirli in i'('(|U('st iunon;^- tlic Kulchiii,
is the liirj4'(' ribl)('(l (Initiirmiu slu'll wliidi is collccttMl in tin'
iivcliipclii^'d bciwvi'M ( )rt':4'(iii mid ("apf Fairwciitlicr, iiikI
passes l>y ti'inlt' tVom tribf lo 1iil»t' uiilil it iiiids its wjiy ;it
It'iin-fh to the Yukon. ^Vitll this shell they ii<h>rii their mit-
tens, iind even atlaeh it to tlieir jj;'uns, wliieh have been liiliiy
iiitrodueed, and are in jj^reat deniaml. All men carry i>o\\(lii'
and ball, whether they own a j^ain or not, and obtain for it
a share (d* the n'anie.
"^I'lie iribes on the Yukon tie iheir hair behind in a cue. nv
' ehi^'uon,' and daub it with ^'rease and tlu; down of y-ci'sc
and ducks, until, l»y tlu,' re[»etition of the process continiinl
from infancy, it swells to an enormous thiidvuess, so that th.'
weight of the accunndated load of hair, dirt, and (»rnanieiits,
causes the wearer to sto()[) forwards hal>itually. The t:iil-
feathers of the eaL;-le and (ishin;^'-hawk are stuck into tlio
hair on the back (»f the hea,d, and are removed oidy when tlir
owner retires to sleep, or when he Avishes to wave theia In
and fro in a, dance.
The principal men have two or thre(; wives each, uliilr
the bad hunters are obli;4'ed to remain bachelors. A j^cdd
Avrcstler, however, even thon^'h poor, can always oljtaiii a
wife.
The women do all tlie drudL;"«'ry in winter, except cookiiii:.
and do not eat till the husband is satistied. In summer they
labour little, except in drying- meat or hsli for its preserva-
tion. The men alone paddle while the Avonien sit as [la-
sengers, and husbands even carrv their wives to the slieiv
on their arms, that they may not wet their feet — an iiistaiHv
of gallantry almost nnparalleled in savag-e life. The llsiiiii-
inaux WHunen row their own ' oomiaks,' and the Cheiuw van
women assist the men in ]»addling' their canoes. On tin'
whole, the social condition of the Kntchin women is far siijir-
ri(n' to that of the Tinne women, but scarcely equal to tliat >'[
the Esquimaux dames.
They do not carry tln.'ir children in their hoods or ]nu\U
like the Esquimaux, nor do they stuff them into a bug with
moss like tlu^ Tinne and frees, but they ])lace them in ii ^lat
of l)ii(di- burl:,, wilb a fta'-k and sides like Iho-c ofan ai'ni-i'!)in.
WARS (tF TIIK Kl TCI I IX.
379
. K at el I 111,
\tl\<'r, iiii'l
its w.iy 111
ilu'vr init-
Ix-euliUi'ly
vrv powJfV
btaiu for it
ill ;» fuc. <'V
WW of t;'''''>''
^s coiitinui'il
L (»riiiniifii1>.
>'. Th" l:ill-
iclv iulo llio
iily wlifU tlir
r.ivc tlu'iu 1"
s ciicli, whilr
ors. A '^••""1
lys (»V)t:iin a
(M'\»l (•»H)l<iiii:'.
sunniu'vtl"'}
its -[»!'( 'scwa-
1 sit !is pa--
to liic sliuiv
uu install'''
The K>'1"^-
,. C]i''l"'^\T''"
„fs. «»' il"'
:n is fiiv ^»r'-
1 to tlial "f
nui
l)0^l^
1^
ito •.! I'a'^' ^vi^
rlu'in in ;i ^'"'
;iii*l a p(»iiiiin'l ill tVoiit rcst'iiililiiii;' ilic jicak of a Sjuniisli
>ii(l(ll(', l>y wliicli they liaii^' it IVoiii their back. Tlio cliild's
t'.i't arc l»aiHla;^n'(l to iircvciit tliciii ^'rowin;^', small t'ect
iiciiiu' tli(»ii^'lit liaiulsoinc, and consiMjUciitly slun't unsliapt'ly
ti'ct arc cliaractt'i-istic of" flic pcojilc of l)otli st-xcs. A more
TJiliculoiis or iiisaiio cnstoin can lianlly be iiiia^iiicd aiiioiio- -i
nation of liniitcrs.
The Kutchiii are a lively cheerful [teoijle, fniid of daiicjiii^'
iind si)ij4'iii^", ill \vhi(di they excel all <itlier Indians: leaping,
wivstlin;;', and other athh'tic exercises are likewise favourite
iiiiiuseiiients. They are inveterate talkei's. Mvery iiew-
ceiiier arriving' at a tradin<4'-|tost makes a lonn' speetdi which
must not be interrujtted. The Ix'lief in Shamanism is still
ill full vin'our anion^' them.
'Hioui^li a, treacherous |MM)ple, they have never yet imbrui'd
lliiir hands in European blood, but there are IVe(|iieiit feuds
aiii'iiiy' their various tribes, by which one-half of the popula-
tinii of tlu' banks of the Yukon has been cut otf Avithin the
l;i>t fw<'iil>- years. From a constant dread of ambuscade,
they do not travel excei)t in larye parties ; and thus ;i peri»etual
ti'iliiiL;' of insecurity embitters their lives, whi(di are already
ii'iulcred sufliciently hard by the severity of an Ai'ctic ili-
iiiatc. The ayents of the Hudson's JJav Companv have en-
~ a. 1 a,
ilcavoured l»v u'ood advice, and the distribution of lar<j'e
presents, to establish peace, but have ou\y nu-t uith [»artiul
>Ucccss,
Like the Tinne, the Kut(diin are in a stai<' of peri)etual
waii;ir(> with the Es(|uimaux ; and thouuh thev a!wa\s (diarj-'e
till' latter with treacdiery, yet there can be no doubt that the
arrnsation miyht, with full justice, ])e retorted uiion them-
si'lvcs. One of the hostile encounters, inentinned by Sir
•I. liichardson, deserves notice, on accouuf of its resemlihuu-e
ill some particulars to the meetinu' of Juab and Abner, re-
'•"ril''d in the Second Bo(d\ of Samuel. A party of eaidi of
till' two nations having met on the banks of a river, the
veiiiiL;' men of both i»arties rose up as if for a friendly dance.
Til'' stream n'lides peacefully alone-, tlu' settine- sun ^^-ilds the
I'iii'' forest and sparkles in the Avaters, all nature breathes
l"'ii''e. Ibit the Esquimaux having;-, acc(»rdinL;' to their custom,
.'174
TlIK I'oLAIJ W(M:I.I>.
C'oiiocaltMl tlh'ii" loiio^ knives in tlio slccvrs <tC llicir dct r-
Kkiii shirts, siiddt'iily diiiw them in one of tlio cvolutii'iH
of the (hince, jiihI plim^i' thcni into tlicir <t|»j»nn»'nts. A
{jfcncnil c'onliict rnsnes, in which the Kntchin, thanks tn
tht'ii- <,Mnis, nitinuitcly prove victorious. ' Another ineidnit.'
8aj.s Sir John Rielnirdson, ' which occnrre<l on tlie huidcs df
tlie V'nkon in iHl."), mivcs ns a fnrther insio-ht into the sus-
jiicious and tiniorons lives of tliese jieoph'. One ni<;'ht fmii-
stran^-ers from tlie lower part of the river arrived at the tciit
of an (dd man nho was sick, and who had with him only Iwm
sons, one (d'them a mere hoy. Tlie new comers entered in ,1
friendly nninner, and when the hour of repose came, lay down:
but as they did not slee[», the sons, suspecting' from their cini-
ductthat they meditate*! evil, feinned a desire of visit in;4' tlicji'
mooso-<h>er snares. They intimated their [)Ui-iiose aloud \<>
their father and went ont, takin<^' with them their hows iuhI
arrows. Instead, howevei-, cd' c(»ntinnin<4; their way into flir
wood, th(!y st(de l)a«d< quietly to the tent, and listening' im
the outside, disc(»vere(l, as they fancied, fi<»m the convcis;!-
tion of the strauf^-ers, that their father's life was in danger.
Knowiu}^ the exact position of the innuttes, they thereupon
shot their arrows thr(»u<_>h the skin covering" of the tent iiinl
killed two <d' the straiij^'e Indians; and the other two, in cii-
doavourin<>' to maki^ their escape l>y the door, shared tln'
fate of their companions. This is spoken of in the trihc ;i-
an exceedingly brave action.'
Dm-ing- the summer the Yukon Kut(diiu dry, for tlnir
winter use, the white fish {Coretiouiis alhKs), which they catcli
by plantinj^ stakes across the snuiller rivers and narrow parts
of the lakes and closin*^ the openings with wicker-baskots.
They take the moose-deer in snares, and tow'ards siirinu'
mostly resort to the mountains to hunt reindeer, and lay in
a stock of dried venison. On the ojieu pasture grounds t'lf-
quented by this animal they construct large pounds. Tw^
rows of posts firmly planted i^ the ground, and united l»y
the addition of strong horizontal bars into a regular fence.
extend their arms for nearly the length of a mile in the funii
of a Roman V. The extremity of the avenue is closed 1»)
stakes with sharp points sloping towards the entrance.
ty
(111
KlTllliN HITS.
S7A
lirir (If 1-
(•vttlnti<'ii-i
iiit'iits. A
, tlmtiks tn
•r incident.'
he Iniliks of
itt) tilt' sus-
• nlii'lil I'our
1 ill tin- tciit
iiii only iwM
(•MttTiMl in ;i
»', l;i_V down:
111 IJH'lr cnii-
visitiii;4'<li"'ii'
KSt' illninl 1"
■ ir Ih»\vs ;iii'1
wiiy into tlif
listi-nin;;' nii
lie c'onvt'fs;!-
iis in (liiii'^vr.
l(.y tlit'i'fiil"'^'
ic lent illiil
two, ill ••n-
sli:ir«"l ill''
tlic trilM' u^
•V, t'ov tli''ii'
•ii tlicy catcli
narrow i>iirt>
clcei'-baski'ts.
wards spviuu'
<-r, and lny i"
oTounds tiv-
,onnds. Two
id nniti'd l>y
L-c^-nlar truco,
,>'iii tlie turn
is oli.sod i>y
cntnuu-e, "H
wliirli tlu' rt'indt.'oi', driven to-^ctlicr and liolly pnrsnod l»y the
Indians, may inipalo tli*-nisflvt>.s in tln-ir dospcral*' llii^lil.
Tlic strncliirt' is tTi'i-li'd witli <4r<'at lalMUjr. as tlio rmilMT
lias to Ih' t ran>|»ortcd into tlir o|m'|i rdiiiili's IVoin a coiisidtT-
alil<' distance. Sonic dl' tlicsc may In- a icntnry old, and
tJH'v arc tlic hrreditaVN possession of tlic lamilies or tiilti'S
Ity wliom tliey wei ri^inally coiistnietcd.
Iliit in spite of all llieir eont rl\ a iiees and tlie use of lire-
iiriiis, the Knteliin, whose mnnhers on the hanKs of the N'id\oji
iii'i' est imated at ahont a tlitnisand nmn and hoys al<le to
lilllit, are fre(|Ueiitly redueed to ^reat distress. Ilelice the
hM and inlirm are mercilessly left to theii- fate when ^anie
is scarce, and fanune makes itsrlf felt. Attempts have heeii
viiinly made to hetter the c(»iidition of the noithei'n Indians
li\ indncin;^' them to tame the reindeer, 'riicir sniierst ition
is one (»f the oh^tacl(•s a^;ainst this nsefiij Innovation, for
tlicy fear that were tln-y to make some of the I'eindeer
llicir captives, the remainder would immediately leave the
eninitry. 'And why,' they \[i\i\, 'sjioiild we follow lik«;
sl;ives a herd of tame animals, when the forest and the
liarrcn n'ronnd pro\ ide ns wllh the rlk', the wild reindeer,
mill th<' mnsk-ox, and onr ri\ei's and lakes are tilled with
fishes that cost lis nothinn' Init the troidde of catcliin;^"
tlicii|-J'
lla<'h family possesses a deer-skin tent or lod^e. which in
siniimer, when in ([iiest ol" Li'anie. is rarely ereeted. The
winter (>ncam[)meiit is nsnulis in a L;'i'o\e ot" spriiee-tlrs ;
tlic Li'i'onnd heini;' cleared of snow, the skins, wliieli ai'e
piTpared with the hair, are extended o\cr i!t.'\il>le willow-
jiiilcs whi(di take a semi-ciicnlar loim. This hcmisplierieal
sliapc of hul^-es is not alto^'etlier iinkiiown anioiiL;' llie
Clicpewyans and Crees, hein^' Ih; t ^ciieralls adapted for
their vaponr haths. framed <>{' willow-jioles. hiil their dwell-
iiiii' places ai'e roiiical, as >tilV poles are ii,,,'il for their
reiistruction.
When the tent is erected the snow is paidxed on outside to
half its heiii'ht, and it is lined eqiialK hi^ii within with the
youny spray of the s[»riice-lii'. that the liodies of the inmates
ma v not rest uti'ainst the cold wall. T'hedoorwav is tilled np
376
TUB TOLA II WOlUil).
by a (l(>nl)l«^ fi»ld of slciii, and the a|»artiMent has the closeness
andwanntli bnt not tlie eh'i^unee of the Esquimaux snow-
hut, Avliieli it resembh^'S in sliape. Thou^-h only a very small
fire is kept in the centre of the lodye, yet the warmth is us
j^reat as in a log'-house. The provisions are stored on the
outside under fir-branches and suoav, and further protected
from the dogs by sledg'es being- placed on top.
^
Thf Pau Marten.
IIil! at Kapids ou 3c, ir lake Hivcr.
CIIAPTKR XXXI.
ARCTIC VOYAGES OF DISf'OVKKV FROM THE C A DOTS TO
BAFFIN.
Fir~t Sc;iiiilinavian Disco von t of America -T'uc CalHits — Will
oii'iniiv aiK
in
lan-
■llnr I l.')j;j-l .■).■) I ) — St I [ill I'll Uuri'oiiuli ( !,'),")(; )--l'"riil)is!irr ( laJd-l.'iJS) — I)avi
l."..s'i-!o,S7)- Uarciitz. V<<v\
iclis
aiii
i;
(l.')!ili— WiiifciMiii: "I' tiir I>iitch
N
Ihr
ivi-ators ill Niivaya /cinlya ( 1 •■)!)(!-]. ■)!)7) — John Knight ( UiOUj- 3Iiii\lei'nl by
fiuiiiiaiix — lliiiry IIiuImui ( l(iu7-l()i>i)) — IJatlin (KilG).
1
<>X(J before Columbus sailed from the port of Palos
I (1 li)2) on that ever memorable voyai^e which chaii'^'ed
tljf ovogTapliy of the Avorld, tlie Scandinavians had already
t'niiiul the Avay to North America. From (ireenland, "which
was known to them as early as the ninth century, and which
they l)e<4'an to coh>nise in the year J'S-"), they sailed farther
to the west, and jjiTadiially extended their discoveri(>s from
thf coasts of Labrador, Nova Scotia, and Newfoundland, to
these (if the present state of Jiliode Island, which, from the
wilil vines they there found ynjwin^- in abundance, they
•.•iiUed the ' j^ood Vinland.'
lint a lone- series of disasters destroyed their Greeidand
veli.iiics about the end of the fourteenth century, and as
^'■uiidinavia itself had at tluit time but very little intercourse
with the more civilised nations of Southern Europe, it is not
'" he Wondered at that, despite the discoveries of (.Uinnbjorn
$78
Tin: I'oi-AK wo];lt).
and Erie tlio Rod, the ^Teiit westcTii ciniLiiunt iviiuiiiinl
iiiiknowii to the world in <4eneral.
One of the first eoiise(jUenees of the aehicvements of
Cohiiiibuswas the ir-diKcon'rii of tht,^ northern pai't of Anierica,
for the Enjflish niorchants lon;[;'ed to have a slmre of the coiii-
morce of India ; and as tlie Pope had assii^-ned the easicni
ronte to the Portuynese and the western one to the Spaniards,
they resolved to aseertain whether a third and shorter way
to the Spiee Islands, or to the fahnlons ;4-olden re^'ions of
the east, niio-ht not be found by steering- to the north-west.
In pursnanee of these views John and Sebastian Cabot saili-d
in 11J)7 from Bristol, at that time our tirst eomnunvial [»or1.
and diseovere<l the Avhole American coast from Labradoi- tn
Viru'inia. They failed indeed in the obii^'t of their missimi.
but they laid the Hrst foundations of the future colonial
greatness of Enj^'land.
A second voyao-o in 1 IDS by Sebastian Cabot alon(>, witlmut
the companionship of his father, had no important resiilt>.
but in a third voyaj^'e which he undertook in search of a
north-wa'st passa^'e, at Henry VIFl.'s expense, in 1-M(i ^r
1517, it is tolerably certain that that ^-reat navi^^'ator ili^-
covered the two straits which now bctir the names of l)a\i-
and Hudson.
The French expeditions of Vera/.zani (lo--»i and Jucipic-
Cartier (lo'Jl), however memorable in other res[)ects, liaviiii:
been as unsuccessful as those of Cortereal (^1. ")(»(>) or (Joiiu/
(1521) in discovering- the desired north-western iiassa-v.
Sebastian Cabot, who in 1511) was created Grand Pilot it
En<jfland, started in his old a^e another idea, which has
become alnmst etjually momentous in the history of Aivtii
discovery — the search for a north-eastern route to China.
Accordin<>'ly, in the year 155o, a S(piadron of three small
vessels, under the command of Sir Hn<i'h AV'illoiiuld'^-
Chancellor, and Durfoorth, set sail from Ratclitfe, with (la
vain hope of reachhiy India by sailing- round North Asia, tla'
formation and vast extent of which were at that time totally
unknown.
Ott' Senjan, an ishnid on the !N't)rwe^'ia n coast in hit. (I'.'l .
the ships parted company in a stormy nii^ht nevr to inert
VOYA<ii;.S OF WILLOL'dllBY AM) CIIAXCKLLOR.
379
, I'OllUUnnl
reiueiits "I'
)f AiiK'fit-a,
of tlu! COIII-
> Spauiiinls.
^liorti'V way
north-west.
Cabot r^ailol
uoirial port. j
Lubrudort'i
ln'iv inissiou.
nrc t-nloiiial
lone, wiilu'iit
L-tiiut result >.
seareli ef a
., ill l'>li> "!■
ivi^-alor «li-^-
ues of l)a\i-
aiitl JaeiHii'-
K'ets, haviuu'
H>) or C!>'inf/.
:ern passu-''.
ami Pil"t "f
1, wliieli lia>
,,vy of AivtK
ite i(» CliiiKi.
throe small
WilloULilil'v.
itfe, Avitli thr
lorlli Asia, til''
t time tntallv
I in lat. <ii'^ •
Illt'V'V to lliei't
a^ain. Willoiiyhby and Durfoortli roaeliecl the coast of
Xovaya Zenilya, and ultimately sou^rht a harhonr in Lapland
on the went side of the entrance into the White Sea, where
the captain-f^eneral, officers, and crews of lioth ships were
miserably frozen to death, as some Russian fishermen ascer-
tained in the following- sprin^-. How lon<4' they sustained
tlie severity of the weather is not known, but the journals and
ii will found on board the 'Admiral' proved that Sir Huyh
Willoug'hby and most of that ship's company were alive in
January, 155 f. They died the victims of inexperience, for
had they, as Sir John Richardson remarks, been skilled in
hniitinj^ and chtthin^- themselves, and taken the precaution
laoi'eover of hiving- in, at the beginning of the winter, a stock
(if mossy turf, such as the country produces for fuel, and
above all had they secured a ftnv of the very many seals
and belu^ie which abounded in the sea around them, they
iiiig-lit have preserved their lives and passed an endurable
winter.
Chancellor was either nutre fortunate or tiiore skilful, for
lifter havino- long been buffeted about by stormv weather,
he eventually reached St. Nicholas in theAVhite Sea. From
tlu'uce he proceeded overland to Moscow, and delivered his
credentials to the Czar, Ivan Yasilovitch, from whom he
obtained many privileges for the company of merchants who
hiid fitted out the expedition. In 1551 he returned to
England, and shortly afterwards Avas sent back t(» Russia by
(,^ueen Mar}' tV)r the purpose of neg-otiating- a tn-aty of com-
men-e between the two nations. Having satisfactorily ac-
eomplished his mission, he once more set sail from the
White Sea, accompanied by a Muscovite ambassador. But
this time the return voyage was extremely inifortunate, for
Chancellor, after losing- two of his vessels off the coast of
Norway, was carried by a violent tempest into the bay of
Pitsligo in Scotland, where his ship was wrecked. He
endeavoured to save the and.)assador and himself in a boat,
but the small pinnace was upset; and although the' Russian
safely reached the strand, the Englishman, after having
t'stapi'd so many dangers in the Arctic (Jcean, was drowned
within sight of his native shores.
380
TIIK I'OLAR WOULD.
In 155G the Muscovy Company iittcd ont the Sorelitliril't
jiinnacc, under the coniiniuid of Stephen BuiTonr»'h, fm-
discovery towards the Iliver Obi and further search for a
north-east passa^-e. This snuill vessel reached the strait
between Novaya Zeiidya and Vaij^Mts, called by the llussiaiis
the Kara Gate, but the enormcnis masses of ice that came
floating- through the channel compelled it to return.
In spite of these repeated disappointments, the desire to
discover a northern route to India was too great to allow ;iu
enterprising- nation like the English to abandon the scheme
as hopeless.
Thus in the days of Elizabeth the question of the N.W.
passage was again revived, and INIartiu Frobisher, who had
solicited merchants and n(»bles during fifteen years for means
to undertake ' /A'' onJi/ <iri''if f/iiiKj left nitiUme in. flir irarlil,'
sailed in the year lo7G with three small vessels of ;)•"), -"{O, jnnl
10 tons, on no less an errand than the circumnavigation of
northern America. The reader nuiy smile at the ig-noraucc
which encouraged such eft'orts, but he cannot fail to a<liniiv
the iron-hearted man who ventTired in sueh wretched nut-
shells to face the Arctic seas. The expedition safely readieil
the coasts of Greenland and Labrador, and brought luuiie
some ii'litterinii' stones, the lustre of which was erronei>uslv
attributed to gold. This belief so inflamed the zeal for new-
expeditions to ' Meta Incognita,' as Frobisher had naiueil
the coiists he had discovered, that he found no ditlicnlty in
equipping three ships of a much larger size, that they mi^'lit
be able to hold more of the anticipated treasure. At Die
entrance of the straits Avhich still bear his name, he wiis
prevented by the gales and drift-ice from forcing a passiii^e
to the sea beyond, but having secured about 200 tons of the
supposed golden ore the expedition was considered eminently
successful. A large squadron of iifteen vessels was conse-
quently fitted out in lo7S for a third voyag-e, and commissioned
not only to bring- back an untold amount of treasure but iil>it
to take out materials aiul men to establish a C(»lony on tliese
desolate shores. But this graiul expedition, which sailed
with such extravagant h(»pes, was to end in disapprdntn)ent.
One of the largest vessels was crushed by an iceberg a1 <lii'
entrance of the strait, and the others were so beaten about liy
VOVAGK OF DAVIS.
381
erclithril't
ou^li, for
rcU for ;i
tlie strait
B llussi.uis
that oaine
11.
desire to
to allow an
the sclieiue
t' the N.W.
[', AvllO luid
•s for means
1 the forliK'
•:',:), :5(), aii.l
avigation uf
e io-iioraiu'i-'
storms and obstructed by fo<^'S that they were at leiif;'th ;j^lad
to return to En^^-land witliout havin<4' done anyihiii^' for tlu;
advancement of o-coM-riipliicjil knowlcdn-o. Tlu> utter worth-
Icssness of the olitterin;Li' stones liavinm' meanwhile been
(liscovercMl, Frobisher reliniinisliod all I'urtliev attempts to
]insh his fortunes in the northern ivj4'ions, and sought new
laurels in a, sunnier clime, lie accompanitMl Drake to tho
AVi^st Indies, commanded subse(iueiitly one of tlie lar«^-est
vessels opposed to the Spanish Armada, and endi'd his heroic
life wliile attaehin<if a small French fort in behalf of Henry IV.
iliiriii^" the war with the Lea^aie.
The discovery of the north-western passa^'o was, however,
still tho great enti'rprise of the day, and thus sundry London
au'ivhants a<4-ain 'cast in their adventure,' and sent out
John Davis in loSo, ^vith his two ships, '•Sunshine' and
'Moonshine,' carrying*', besid(.'s their more necessary cqui]*-
iHcuts, a band of music ' to cheer and recreate the spirits of
the natives.' Davis arrive<l in si^"ht of the southwestern
(•(last of Greenland, where he saw a hiyh mountain (Snklcer-
t(iiipen) to\verinj4' like a cone of silver over tin.' fofj which
viili'd the dismal shore. The voya<i'ers were i^'lad to turn
fnnii tlu^ o^loomy scene, and to steer throui^h the open water
to tlie north-west, where, on August (I, they discovere<l land
in latitude OO" 10' altogether free from 'the pesters of ice,
iiinl ank(nvd in a very fair ro<le.'' A friendly understand-
iiii:' was established with the Esquimau , and a lively
irailic oi)ened, the natives eagerly giving their skins and
furs j'or beads and knives, until a l)risk wind separated the
strange visitants from their sim})le-ininded friends. The
ii'iuainder of tho season was spent in exploring Cnmber-
liiml Sound and the entranee to Fr(»bisher's and lludscjn's
Straits.
In the following year Da\is undertook a second voyage to
tln' n()l•th-^vest, for which tla.' * Snnshine ' and ' jVIoonshini.' '
Wcl'i
auain en!>aov(
with two other vessels. On June 21>,
l-VsC, ]i,> landed on the coast of Greenland, in latitude (i T,
iiiid soon after steered to the west. The enormous ice-floes
^vliicli, as is well known, eome driiting from Batliu's IJay
until the season is far advanced, opposi'd his progress. For
^"ine davs he coasted these lloatin'*- islands, Avhen a foi>' eamo
m^M
mmmr
382
THK POLAR AV(H![-D.
on, duriiiL;' wliich ropes, siiils, and c-orda^^'o, avoiv alike fast
frozen, and tlie seamen, lio])eless of acconiplishinj^- the inis-
sa;4-e, warned tlieir conunandei- tliat * by liis over-boldness he
niio'lit cause tlieir widows and fatherless children to give him
bitter curses.'
Touched by this appeal, Davis ordered two of his ships to
return home, and pushing" on in the 'Moonshine' with the
biddest of his lV)llowers, he reached the American shore,
which he coasted from 07" to o7° of latitude. Oft' tlie
coast <d' Labrador, two of his sailors Avere killed by tlio
natives, and 8ep>tember beino- ushered in by violent gales,
he c^ave no farther attempts tor the year, and returned to
Eni^l.inu.
On .line li), 1587, we once more find him on the coast of
Greenland, ni his (dd tried bark the ' Sunshine,' in company
with t.' ' T'']i/abe1l) ' and a pinnace. The supplies for this
third voya<4e Ix^ng furnished luider the exjn'ess condition
that the expenses should be lightened as much as possible
by fishing at all suitable times, the two larger ships were
stationed for the purpose near the part of the coast wliieli
they had formerly visited, while Davis steered forward in tlie
small and ill-conditioned vessel Avhich alone remained at his
disposal. He fii-st sailed along the (jreenland coast as far as
72'' lat., where, having fairly entered Bafhn's Bay, he named
the point at which he touched Sanderson's Hope, in honeiii'
of his chief patron, and then steered to the west, until he
once mf)re fell in with the ice-barrier, which had prevented
his progress the year before. Time and perseverance, how-
ev'c'r, overcame all obstacles, and by July 19 he had crossed
to the opposite side of the strait which bears his name. Ho
then sailed for two days up Cumberland Strait — Avhich, it Avill
be remembered, he discovered on his first expedition — hnt
believing this })assage to be an enclosed gulf, he returned, mid
again passing the entrance to Hudson's Bay, without an efti>ri
to investigate it, repaired to the rendezvous apjjointed fur
the two whaling vessels, to meet him on their way to England.
But who can paint his astonishment and consternation, wlieii
he f<mnd that his companions had sailed aAvay, leaving him
to find his Avay home in his miserable pinnace, wddch, h"^^-
ev<'r, landed him safely on his native shores. This was the
DUTCH KNTKIirillSi:.
383
nlike iUst.
f the pas-
olduoss ln'
(> o-ivo liiii)
is ships to
' with the
ican shoro,
.. Ott' th<.'
led by the
jlent gules,
i-eturiied to
tho coast of
in coiupiiny
[)lios for this
(is coiiditinii
h as possible
r ships Aveve
coast Avhidi
.vward in tho
luiined at his
ast as far as
ly, he named
in honour
until he
ntea
liow-
lost,
lid pr
lorauce,
(iVO
had crossed
Ih
I
naiuo.
Lvhich, it Avill
Kh
lition
--hut
'turiiod, !i
n<
\
lOut an e
ttoii
)0
inted tur
iPl
to Eni:i'laiHl.
Illation, AV
leaving
w
hich, 1
irhis was
hen
him
l()\Y-
th
I;i>i of the Arctic voyajxcs of that givat navio-ator. for tho
>pirit of the nation was chilled by his three snccessive <lisap-
)M.iiitiaents ; and all the zeal with -which he pleaded for a
lunrlli expoditioii proved frnitl(>ss.
lie snl)se(piently made five voyages to Ihe East Indies, and
^v;ls killed ())i DeciMnl)er 27, 1 ()(>.'), on the coast of Malacca, in
II tlLiht with the ]\[alays.
Seven vears after Davis's last Arctic vovaufe, the Dutch
iii:i(le their first a])peara,nce on the scene of northern discovery.
Tiiis persevering' people had just then succeeded in castinj^*
dlVtlie S[)anish yoke, and was now striving" to ^ain, by the
development of its nuiritime trade, a position amono- the
lU'iuhbourinL;- states, which the smallness of its territory
sfiiiicd to deny to it. All the known avenues to the treasures
uf llu' south were at that time too well y'uarded by the fleets
iif Povtu;4al and 8pain to admit of any rivalry ; but if fortune
I'avourcil thorn in lindinn' the yet unexph>red northern pas-
siije 1o India, they mi;4ht still hope' to secure a lion's share
ill that most hu*rative of trades.
Aiiiiiiatecl liy this laudable spirit of cnterpiMse, the mer-
ili;iiiis (if Amsterdam, Knkhui/en, and ^Middelbur^- fitted out
ill 1 MM an ex[»editiiin in <|nrst ol' the north-eastern passa<4"e,
wiii'ii they onti'uslod lo the command <tf Cornelins tN>rnelis-
/jHiii. |>i'ant Ysbrantzoon, and William Harentz. one of the
iiii>>1 experienced seamen of the day. The three V(>ssels
sailed IV<»m the Texel on .lune (i, and having" reaidied the
• east (if l^apland, sepiiraied into two divisions; IJarentz
iliedsjiiu- the holder coursi^ of coastini;' the wi'st side of
Xevaya Zemlya, as far as the islands of ()ran<jfe, the most
ii'iitlieilv points of the ar(diipelau'o; whih> his less adventurous
ii'iiirades were contented to sail alon^' the Kussian coast,
until iliev rea(died a strait to wlii(di tliev ii'ave the very
.i;i|>re|iviate name of \'ai'.rats, uv ' Wind Hole.' Forcing-
tliiii' wav throue'h the ice. wlii(di alnK)st ctmstantlv blocks
ii|i the entrance to the Ka.i'a Sea. tliev saw, (in roundintr a
lireiiH.utdvy at the other end of the strait, a clear expanse of
l»liie (ipen sea, stretchin;j;- onward as far as the eye could
I'lach, while the continent trended away rapidly towards
'111' sniith-east. They noAV no lonycr doulited that tliey had
"^lil'd found the famous ('a[»e Tabin— a fabulous headland,
884
TFII-: POLAR WORLD.
which, [iccordino- to Plin^^ (an iiulispiitiihle niithority in
those times of i^eo^Tiiphical iynorance), loniu'd th«' iKtrthcin
oxtrciiiitv of Aisiii, from whence the V(»vii«i;i' was supixtscil td
he easy to its eastern and southern shores. Lilth> did lirant
and ( 'ornelius dream, that within the Aretie Circh> the Asiatir
coast still stretched ] 20° to the east ; and fully trusting- tli<ii'
erroneous impressions, they started in full sail f(»r ilollainl,
ea<4'<'r to brinj^- to their countrymen the news of their ima-
ginary success. Oft' Russian Lapl;.nd they fell in with Jiarciitz.
who, having arrived at the northern extremity of Novaya
Zemlya — a higher hititiide than any navigator is recorded
to have reached befot'e — had turne<l back before strong up-
posing winds and floating ice, and the three vessels returiR'd
together to Tex».'l.
Such were the hopes raised by the discovery of the imat^i-
nary Capo Tabiii, that, losing sight of their habitual cautidii,
the merchants of Middelburg, Enkhui/en, Ilotterdam, and
Amsterdam immediately fitted out a fleet of six shi[)s, laden
with all sorts of merchandise fit for the Indian mai'kct. A
little yacht w^as addi'd, which was to accompany the ilei'i as
far as that promontory, and thence to return with the l; 1
news, that the squadron had been left steering witha favtmi-
able wind right oft' to India. But, as may well be sn])p(iS('d.
these sanguine hopes, built on the unsubstantial fabric of a
vision, were doom* d to a woful disappointment, for tlu'
'Wind Hole Strait,' doing full justice to its name, did iint
allow the vessels to pass; and after fruitless eft'orts to torn'
their way through the ice-blocks which obstructed that in-
hospitable channel, they returned crestfallen to the jMUt
whence they had sailed a few months before Avith such
brilliant expectations.
Although great disappointment Avas felt at this failnii'.
the scheme of sailing round Cape Tabin to India was, how-
ever, not abandoned by the persevering Amsterdan)ers ; and.
on May IG, 150G, IIeemsk(n-k, Barentz, and Cornelis Kyp
once more started for the north-east. Bear Island and
Spitzbergen were discovered, Avhereupon the ships sc]ia-
rated, Cornelis and Ileemskerk retm*ning to Holland, \\liilf
Barentz, slowly making his way through the fog and ice.
advanced to tln^ most nortluM-n point of Novaya Zemlya. 1li'
AN .\li( rk WIMl.K.
;iM.»
utliovity in
;lie iioviht'in
snpp(»stMl lo
tie did r>v:nii
e tlvL' Asintir
rustiu<^' tli'iv
for lli.Uau.l,
i)t* tlieir iinii-
witU Buvciitz,
ty of KoVllVil
,r is ivconU'd
IV strong' •'!»-
ssels retiirnf'I
of tlie ima^i-
bitual caution.
.otti^rdiiin, '.nitl
Ax ships, ladt'ii
[in uuirkft. A
uiy tlio iU'«'t as
with the u"nil
.• Avithll filVoHV-
•11 1)0 supposotl
Itial hibvii- .'f ;i
[im'ii
name
t, fev th.'
did n"t
lottovts to t'oKO
ted that iu-
ruc
'11
to the 1
ovt
love
AV
ith sudi
kt this faihin
liidiii was.
luiw-
n-daiuers ; aiul.
CovneUs KyV
Ishnid au'l
ar
lie shiL»s sei
I Holland, w'
|io fop; ill"
,va Zendya,
lii-
uie
1 U'C.
Ilu
. rcw heiiijjf enc()ririi;;"e(l l»y tlie tidiiiy's, that from the ]ii;;1i
I litis (if ()raii;4<' Ishmd elear open water had breu seen to
till' soulh-t.'ast. The effort to rradi this iiivitiii!^- ehainiel
w.i > frnstraleil by the ice, whidi u-athered aVioiit tlie sliip
il■^ it lav near shore, and ■j-raduallv collectiiin' inidi'r aii<l
ai'.dind it, raised it far above the level of the sea. All hope
(if iituru before the next summer now vanishrd. but these
III ive sailors submitted with nisi^-nation t(» their l'at>', ' thon^i'li
iiiiiidi ^^-rievi'd,' says (lerrit de Veer, who was hinisriraii cyc-
wiliiess of all the incidents he relatt.'s, ' to live there all that.
(did winter, which we knew would fall out to be extremely
Mttci'/ Fortunately a qiiantity of drift-wood was found on
the strand, which served the Dutchmen b(»tli for tln' con-
struction of a small hut aiul for fuel.
As early as St'})tendjer, the ground was frozen so hard that
ilicy tried in vain to dir*' a j^'rave for a dead conu'a<le, and
ilicir eramped linyvrs could hardly build the hut, whiidi was
the more necessary, as the vessel, crackin;^- under the pres^sure
cf the ice, yave sij^ais of speedily breakiuL;- up altogether,
liy the middle of October the rude dwellino- w'as comjdetcd,
1111(1 thou<^'h its accommodation was scanty, they were .^lad
tn take up their abode in it at once. The best place l>y the
rciitral lire was assii^aied to a sick con)rade, while all the r(;st
;ivran;4i'd their beds as best they could on shelves whitdi had
liivii built round the walls. An examination into the state
I't' tlieir provisions showed the necessity of retluciuL;- th.'ir
'laily rations of bread, cheese, and wine, but by settinjj^ tra]»s
iii'y cau;^'ht a g-ood many Arctic foxes, which Lj-ave them an
"leasional supj'ly of fresh food. The sun had now entirely
':ik('ii his departure, and the lon;^" winter nii^-ht of the 7-^^
!■!' ef latitude set in, dminn" which snowdrifts and im[!etuous
"iiiils coutined them to their miserable lint.
' A\'e looked pitifully one upon tla.' other." says De Veer,
'liiiiiM' in o'veat fear that if the extremity of the cold ^rew to
'''umre and more, we slutuld all dii* there of c(»l(!, for !liiiL
'inn lire soever we made would not warm us."
The ice was now two inches thick ujton the walls, and even
"!i the sides of their sleeping' cots, and the very clothes they
'"'IV were whitened with frost. Vet in the midst (»f all their
^uttV'rings these bravo nam nniintained cheerful hoai'ts ; and
C c
380
TIIK rOI.AIf WOllLH.
so yrciii wiis their elasticity of s[>irit, tlint reiiieinUerini;'
JiiiiUiiry .") was Twell'tli Eve, tliey resolve(l to celebrate it ;i>
best they iiiij^-lit. 'Aii<l then,' says the (»hl chroiiicler, ' we
l)raye(l our IVfaister that we iiiii^ht be ineri'y that iiii^hl, ami
said tliat Ave Aven; content to s[M'nd some of the wine tlmt
ni^-ht which we liad spared, and which was our share ^nic
^lass) <'very second day, and wliereof for e(M'tain<' days we 1i;h1
not draidce, and so that nii^-)it we made merry and drew \\>r
\i'uv^. And therewith we liad two pounds of meal, whei-,(,t'
Ave ma<h3 pancalves with oylo, and every man had a wliili'
biscuit W'hieli wo sopt in the wine. And so su[»i>osinL,' tliiil
we were in our owne country and anioni^-st our friends, it cmii-
forted us well as if we had made a ^'re at l)anquct in our owiir
house. And we also made trinkets, and onro-uuuer was kiii^'
ofNovaya Zemlya, Avhich is at least 800 miles lone- and lyctli
between two seas.'
On January 21, the edgv of the sun a,pj)eared above tin'
horizon, and the si^ht was a joyful one indeed. Now alsn
the furious snow-storms ceased, and thou^-h the severity nt
the cold contiimed unabated, they were better able to l)rii\v
the outer air and to recruit their strength by exercise. AVitli
the return of daylig-ht the bears came a<^ain about the
house, and some bein^- shot, afforded a very seasonable sn[iiil\
of grease, so that they were able to burn lamps and pass tin'
time in reading-.
When summer returned, it was found impossible teiliv-
engage the ice-bound vessel, and the only hopes of escai'ini:'
from this dn.'ary prison now^ rested on two small boats, in
which they linally quitted the scene of so much sutferiii^' i-n
Juno It, 159(3. On the fourth day of their voyagt', their
barks became surrounded by enin-mous masses of iloatin;^' iti'.
which so crushed and injured tlicm, that the crews, giviiiu' "1'
all hope, took a solemn leave of each other. But in this des-
perate crisis they owed their preserva,tion to the presence of
mind and agility of Do Veer, avIio, with a Avell secured re|pc.
leaped from one ice block to another, till he reached a hw-j,^'^'
floe, on Avhich first the sick, then the stores, the crews, ainl
finally the boats themselves Avere fairly landed. Here they
Avere obliged to renuiin Avhile the boats underAvent the neces-
sary repairs, and during this detention upon a floating' ii''
ItllATIi «ii' i;,\iji;\T/.
;)>7
iiicinln'i-ii!:;'
>1)Vi\to it ;i«
ni;;'lii. aii'l
10 wiiu' tliat
' sliiive 'out'
,l;j_VS \V<" li:l<l
ind ("Iri'W t'"V
IC'.ll, Wlu'ivnf
liiul II Nvhil''
l^yposillL!: tllilt
ends, it ft'in-
■ in ouv owin'
iiov was kiiiu'
,ui];- and lycth
ed aVuno tli''
sd. Now also
ho sevcviiy ct
llbk' to I'VilVr
ovclso. ^Vi^ll
in abo>it tli''
M)nable supply
and pass tin'
Lssible to <li^-
os of escapiii::'
Imall boals. in
•h sutVt'riii'i "H
voyaiA'o, tlu'ii'
lot' liuatinu- i''''-
nvs, o-iviii'j: "r
lut in tliis dos-
Jio presi'iKO ol
socuvtHl r*-|"'.
lacbod a, lav^-cv
Itlie oivws. aii'l
]d. Hove tU^'}'
I'ont tbe lUH'Os-
a lloatiug i^-^'
lafi, llii' ^iillant liaroiil/ rlcscd tin' cVfiit I'liI v<>\iiM-c of liis
lili'. He died as ln' liiid 11 vcd, calinly a lid ltravol\ , t liiid\iiiL;-
less (if jiiiiisclf than of Iho welfare of his feJlow-suHerers. for
liis last words were directions as to the course in which they
were to stoer. His death was bitterly inoiinied by the rou^h
men undtT his connnand, and even the ]>ri»s|iecl of a return
tu their homes ettuld not console them for the loss of their
liijoved leader. After a most tedious passan-e itbr by .Inly I'S
tliev had only roaehod the southern exti'emitv of Xovava,
/( lulya) they at lony'th, at the eml of AuLfUst, ai'rived at
Kela in Kiissian La[>lan<l, where, to their ;^lad surprise, they
Iniind their old conn'ade John (/ornelison li\v[», with whom
lliey retunuHl to Amsterdam.
Meanwhile the spirit of discovery had once mon* recoyei'cd
ill Mn^land frt)m tlu' chill thrown ujion it by so nniny previous
(lisapi)ointmeiits. In ](!<i2, Weymouth, while atteu'jit in<4- to
s;iil u[» the }»romisinu' inlet, n(»w so well-known as the entranic
tn Hudson's IJay, was repulsed l)y a violent storm, and in
lilnii a melancdioly issue awaited tho next expedition to tlio
iiurth-Avest, which sailed under the command of John Kniti'lit,
a lirave and experienced sailor. Driven by stormy weather
aiiKuii;' the drift-ice on the coast of Labrador, Knie-ht was
tain to take slieltev in the (irst cov(i that presented itself, and
li'st no time in orderine- his daniai^-ed ship of forty tons to bo
ilniwn hiy'h up on the dry sand bev».>nd the tide mark, where
sill' iiii^ht underg'o the necessary repairs.
This position, however, not proving" satisfactory, he manned
his heat next day, and while the rest of the crew were busy at
Work, sailed across to the other side of the inlet to seek for
sniiio more convenient anchorage. Leavine- two men in
iliari^e of the boat, he landed Avith his niat<' and three of his
iiii'ii t(» explore the strang'O coast. They clind^ed the steep
ai'cliyity of the shore, lingtn-ed for a moment on the summit
"f the clift's, and before disappearing on the other side ex-
'liau^ed greetings of farewell with their messmates in the Ijoat,
\vh(t little imagined that it was a parting for ever. Evening
laiiie on and then darkened into night, muskets were tii-ed
ami trinnpots sounded, but no answer was made, and eleven
"Vleck arriving without anv sign or signal of the missing
l'arty,the menwdiohad tarri(>d on shore mournfully returned
C ( J
;iss
Tin; I'di.Ai; \Vi»i{i.i».
Id llic slii[» willi tlic (lisiiiiil tidings dl' the loss ol" llicir lum,.
conniiiiihlrr iiiitl his coiin'iidps.
During' iliis iiK-liiiiclioly iii^'lit. icisscd in iilti-niatc liiniciit-
iitioiis iiihl ]>l;iiis tor sciirch iiml rescue, the ice Innl >,.
iicciiiiillliited ill tlie chiimiel which the iiiit'oi't iiliiite l\iii(_;I'
(•r(»ssi'(l the (liiv lietnre, thiit th(»ui4h the I»()iit was spccdi'
riu'u-ed i\,v the t'X[icdit i»»ii, iiiid the |i;ii'ty who occii]»icd
were one iiiid nil uiit'(»iitrcdhihl\ ciii^er to stiirt, the niornni^'
lij^ht convinced tlic most Siiiif^'uine of tlie utter im[»ossil)ihlv
of t'oi-cin<;' their \vi\y across the j^'ull". 'J'hus passed \\\n
wivtchcd days of uncertiiinty, reiuh-rccl doiil)ly niiscrahlc li\
the inactivity to whitdi they \vei<.' coiKh'inncd, when on ih.
iii<j;"ht of tlie second day the lit tic encampment was attack,, i
hy a larLi'e party of natives, wdiose hostility left no diiiil,t
ahont the fate which had hcfallen their missine- friends. A
volley (d* musketry soon dispersccl the sava;_';es, hut Icaiin,
future attacks, tlu* crew, now only ei;^dit in numlier, at eiir,
ri'solvcd to ]>ut to sen in their cra/y l)ark, which, tlii'ii:,'
IS w
deprived of its rudder, and so leaky that the pnmi
ohli^'cd to lie cojistaiitiy at wvtrk, safely carried them
Newloundland.
In the vear l(,lo7, Ileiirv Hudson made the tirsi atteiiiih
sail across the Xorth l\)le, a plan started in \-r27 by h'el
)i'i'i
Tliorne, but not yet acted U])(»n by any one durin;^' the ci^iii\
years that liad since passed. ifi> reacln il the east rn;i-:
of (ireeiiland in 7-")'' of latitude, and then proceeded lutli'
northern extremity of Spitzber^-en, but all his eiforts to laiiii. ii
forth into the unknown ocean l.u'vond, were batUed l)\llic i'''
tlelds that o])posed his })ro;^'res.s.
In his next voyage (1.G08) he vainly tried for tlie nortli-i'u^t
p;issaL;v, but his third voyaj^'o (I()U!>), -which he perfoniii'(l in
the service of the T3utcli, led to the discovery of the iiiiii;!
flccnt river Avhich still bears his nanu', and at whose iiiou'i.
the • Empire Oity ' of the p'reat American rejniblic has avi-
11-
rll.
1!<||'
Tn April, ItJlO, wo find him setting- sail on the la>!
most celebrated of his voyag'os. In all but its conuna
this expedilion was miserably inadeqnate to the ol.iject ef it-
mission, for it consisted only <.>f one vessel of tiity-iivc tms
jirovisioned for six nu)nths. and manned by a crew Avho siiccthh
proved tliomselves io be utterly unworthy of theii' leader.
i:i liSUN S I. AST \nV\(,i;
980
ihriv ^'iM\''
lit" l;niii'iil-
icc had VI
ale Kiii'J'
•as sjit't'ili'
ocM'Ujtifd
lie lunriiiiii
uqtossihiliiv
l)llSSt'(l tWH
luisiTiil'lr liy
,vh('U on th''
,vas atlai'kfl
>• IV'u'iitls. A
1, 1»U1 I'tMl'iliJ
iVh'V, at <'ii.r
■ plllUjiS w
I'U'd Uu'iii I
Irst aticiiil''' ^"
,27 l»y !>'"'" '■'
llic cast (•o;l>',
cmMlt'tl tn 111''
•ovtstol:nni'''i
Ue(ll)vllii'i''''
On i'uti'riiio- Hiidson's Str.iits, (lie \.^\^•J;^' iiiiisscs of ice wliirh
ciIi'IiiiiIm'I'ciI t lie slirlarc nf ( ||t' w.il I'l' iiiid I lit' t IThdv IK ss i
d'tll
cMii-liiiit t'i);4's, iiiadi' llii'iii Imsc all coura'^'t', and t Ih'V <'ani('>l l_\
li.'_;'L;'<'d their ciiiiiiiiandiT In I'l'tuni at niict' to I'hi^daiah Ihit
lludsMM jii-fssed oil until at last his littlf i)ark t'lncre-cd inti»ii
vast njM'n watrr ri]i|»lin}^' and sparKdini,^ in the ni<>rnin;4 snn-
shiiii'. Hudson's l>ay ('xj)andtMl hd'oi't' him, and t In- iMirap-
tnivd discoverer was t'nilv convinced that the nort li-woti'i'ii
rmili' to fndia^ now hiy o[)i'ii to the mariners of Mn^land.
It was the be^■innin<4■ <»f Aiij^'iist, and tin' ilastardly o-cw
isidcriny the passage ellec ted, ur^'ed an immediate I'cl urn ;
t liutlsoii was (h'teiMuined on <'om|)letin:^' the advcntiire,
iiinl winti.'rin'^-, if possihje, on the sunny shores of India.
Tni' tlii'ee nioiiths he contiiiue(l tnickin''' thi.^ south coasts
nf that vast Jiorthei'u mediterranean, l^ut all liis hopes of
tiiidin^' a new (diaunel openiu'^' to the soutli |irove(l vain,
initil at len^^'th theshi|» was IVo/.en in on X(.)Vendier |0 in the
<niitli-e;ist corm.'r (tf James's J>ay. A di'eary winlei' awaited
ill" ice-l)ouud seamen, with abnosf exhausted provisions,
iiiHi unfortunately without that herui(.' iMtience and concord
wjii'li had stistaiuiMl the coui'a'''e of JJarent/ ami his coni-
cul
hll
'Unions un<ler trials far mor(
s<'Vere. Ihit sprmj^' came
at
i>
t and revived tlie s[iii'its of their leaijer. His ship
Wi
i''i'' • !iioi'(> iilloat, cMice more liis fancy in«hdued in visions of
^unny east, when as he step[)ed on deck ou the uiornino*
till
'f June 21, his arms wi-re suddenly jiinioned, and he fmuid
iiniself iu llio power (»f three of his men.
liKluiry, rem(»nstrauce, entreaty, counnand, all failed to
a word from the stubborn mutiiu'ci's, and Hudson re-
li'.iw
■'i'.fliei
1 himself bravely to his fate, aud with the ([uiet dii^'nit y
"fa nelth.' nature, looked ou calmly at tln^ ominous prcpara-
tiMiis ^'oiic.j' forward. A small open boat was in waiting', ami
iiitn this Hudson — his hands beinii' ))reviously tied behind
I': I
lis iiack- -was lowered; some powder and shot, and tin
vpcnter's box came next, followed by the carpenter him-
It'. .John Kin<4', -whose luinic oULi'ht to l)e held in honourabh
anion 1
iviii";nhi'auee, as h(> al
( »n
the crew remaiueil true to
'■i;-= iiiasfer. Six invalids Avere also Ibrced into the b
Mill,
^^iiii'li was
then cut adrift, and the vessel sailed onwar<ls (
>u
iieinew.ird coui's
X..tl
uu<'' more Av
as ever heard of
.190
TIIK I'OLAi; WOKI.I).
JEiid
son
liiif (lie riiiylciKlt'Vs (»t' that dark conspiracy sortn
paid a terrible i»onalty. Some fell in a M|4'lit with the Msijiii-
iiiiuix, and others died on the homeward voyaL^e, during- which
tliev suffered from the extremest famine.
The account of the Ln'eiit expanse of sea Avliich had Ix
I'll
reached y-ave new viyour to the spirit of discovery, and new-
expeditions sallied forth (Sir Thomas Button 1()J2, (Jihljnns
KM t, Bylot ll)!-")), to seek alonn* the western shores of Hud-
son's I3ay the passa^'e whicli was to open the way to Tndi;!.
All efforts in this direction were of course doomed to disiip-
pointment, but IJallin, who sailed in l(il(>, with directions
to try his fortune beyond Davis' Straits, enriched Lj'eou-rapliy
wdth a new and important ciuirjuest, by sailin;^' round tlu'
enormous bay which still bears his name. During' this
voyaf>'e, he discovered the entrances of Smith's, Jones', and
Lancaster Sounds, without attempting- to investigate these
broad highways to fields of later exploration. He believed
tlieni to be mere enclosed gulfs, and this belief became so
tirmlv u'rounded in tlie public mind, that two full centui-ies
ehipsed before any new attempt was made to seek fei' ;i
western passage in this direction, while Jens Muidc, a Dane,
sent out in 1019 with two good vessels, Tuider the patroiiai^v
of his king, C'hristian TV.; Fox and James (l(>:)l-l(J;lil .
Knight and Barlow (171U), Middleton (1711), Moor iind
Smith (1710), conlined their eflbrts to Hudson's Bay, and.
by their repeated disappointments, made all expeditions in
quest of a north-western passage appear well-nigh as clii-
merieal as those of the knif»'ht-errants of romance.
The Mu3qua;=;
_____ ^^^S5v5^S?^^
Tho Torso Rock, iir-ar t'oi!;*. Do.-ia T:iO!np3on, North Coas^: of AjiiC-nca.
CllAlTEli XXX 11.
ARCTIC VOYAGES OF DISCOVERY, FROM BAEFIX TO
M'CLINTOCK.
i^h.'ui and Fnmkliii — Koss iiml Parrv (IslS) — I)i>covirv of Mflvillo l^himl —
Willi I
Harl.our (1819-182(1; -Franklin's Fir.-i I.aii'l Joiir
ni's
Dr.'adfiil
i— I'ari-v"
>cciin(.
I A
ovas:c (1821- ISl
Jliirliiik"[.V(.ii (1821)-
■ai'rv
Tliird Voyagf (1S21)— Frank
HI
d Laud Jon
ri:i
to the SI
lores
'I I
lir J'lilar Sea — Bcco'licy — I'arry'.s Sli
Jour
ncv towards tlic I'olr
J'lhn JJoss's Second Journey — I'ive Years in the Aretie Oeean — IJaek's Dis-
ivirv of Great Fisli Kiver — J)t
an(
1 Simpson (1837-l«;5i))— Franklii
iiid Crozier's Last Vovaj'o (181'))— Searehinir Ivxiuilitions — Rieliardson an
I
.- Si
Junies l\oss
Uistiii-
V
IV- - I)e Haven — l'"rank
First Winter
tju.ii'lers discovered I'V (_)ninniney — K'ennedy and Fx Hot — In;i:litielil —Sir 1'^.
Ililrlier — Kellett — M'Clure's Diveovery of the Noi'l li-\Vest Passage — Collinson
— IMlot's Death — Dr. Kae learns tlie Death of the Crews of the 'Fh'Jius' and
'Terror' — Sir Leopohl 31'C!intoek.
^piIK tkiluro of Captain Pliipps (afterwards Lord Miil;4Tavo)
A- ill tho Spitzboro-oii seas (177:>), iiiid that of the ilhistrious
Cuok (177(5), in his a-tt(,Miipt to circuiiinaviii'atc tlic iiorlhcrn
sliorrs of Aiuorica or Asia by way of the Straits of Hcliriiin-,
eiitivoly damped, for tlie next forty years, tlie spirit of Arctic
discovery ; but hope revived wlieii it Ijecanie known tliat
i'iiptahi Seoresby, on a Avhaliii^' expedith)n in tlie Greenland
seas (180G), had attained ST :jO' N. hit., and thus approached
mr
,'ja-j
Till: rol.All WORLD.
tlio Pole to williiii •) lO Diilcs. No previous nuvi^ator hvA
ever readied so I'ar t.» the iiortli ; an open sea lay temptingly
before him, and th(^ a1)senee of tlie ice-hlink proved, that Inr
miles beyond the visible hori/on no iee-lii'M or no sn^w-
covered land opposed his onward course ; but as the object
of Seoresby's voyag-e was strictly commercial, iind he hinisilf
answerable to tlie owners of his vessel, he felt ol)li:4t'd in
saerifiee his ineliniitions to his dutv, and to steer a^'ain tn
the South.
DuriuL;- the Continental war, indeed, England had luit
little leisure to ])rosecute discoveries in the Arctic Ocean:
but not h)ni»- after the conclusion of ])eace, four stout vessels
(181S) were sent out on that mission by doveninnuit. Tw"
of these, the ' Dorothea,' Captain IJuchan, and the 'Trent."
Commander Lieutenant John Franldin, were destined {•>
proceed noi'thwards by way of Spitzberg-en, and to endeavour
to cross the Polar .Sea. After uniunnbered difficulties, tiii'
expedition -was batllino- with the ice to the north-west df
that Avintry archiptdaj^'o, wluMi, on July :>(>, a sudden ;Li;il''
<'om])elled til" commander, as the only chance of safety, tn
'take the ice' — that is, to thrust the ships into any opt.'ii-
ing" anion^- the movin^- masses that could be perceivcil.
Tn this very hazardous operation, the 'Dorothea' — haviiii;'
received so much injury that she was in daniivr of sinkiiii;'
— Avas thereiore turned homewards as soon as the storm siilj-
sided, and the 'Trent' of necessitv accomiianied her.
The other two ships which sailed in the same year, the ' ba-
bella,' commanded by Captain John lioss, and the 'AlexanJfi'.
by Lieutenant AViiliam Edward Parry, had been oriicivil
to proceed u[) the middle vi' Davis' Strait to a hi^'h nortluTii
kititurle, and then to stretch across to the westward, in tli-'
hope of bein;jc able to pass the northern extremity of Aiiurie;!.
and reach Behrin^-'s Strait by that route. As respects iIk'
purposes for which it was sent out. this expedition likrwisi'
endiMl in disappointment; for thouo-h Ross didined iii"iv
»-|i;ar]y tli(> (Greenland coast to the north of the L);mi>li
])ossessions between Ca[»e Melville and .Smith's Souml. 1"'
Avas satisti(.'d with makiiiLi' a verv cursorv examiuatinii of all
the u'reat cliannels leadinu' from Batlin's Lav into the I'eliiv
I'ARKV IN WINTKIJ llAIUlOli;.
.">!){
toinptiiiL:!}'
rtnl, that I'nv
)V no snnw-
s the oh'yri
d lu> liinisilf
I ()l)li;j,>'tl to
eer u^'ahi tn
nvA Ir.id I'Ht
rctic Ocoiui;
stout VCSSi'K
iintnit. Tw"
tlie 'Tiviit;
dostiiuHl 1"
to t'lidoavoiir
flienUies, tln'
lortk-wost t'l
, smUlcii ;i'iil''
> of safety, tn
to any oi"-''!-
j^icveciveil.
lioa'— li'.iviii^'
"V of sinkhiL;'
le storm snl'-
a her.
ear, the • Is^'-
(> 'Alexaiul''!'.
been oriiei\''l
I'lM-li uortlH'i'i'
^tward, in til'
v of Aiiu'vica,
rt^specls til'
tioii
idt'liiii
[• the
jfs Souinl. 1"'
liiiKitioii ol'iill
Ulo the r^l'i^'
Se;!. After siiiliii;.'- for souk? liitle (listaiice nj) fiaucajiter
Sdimd, he \Vi;s arri'stcd 1)y the atiiiosjthcrii' (lt_'ee[)liou of a
viiiiLie of iiioiniiains, extending" ri<4'ht aeross the passa^'e, and
roiK/hidinL;' it useless to ])i'rs('V(.'re, lie at ouee — to the o-n-iit
;i>iniiishui(Mit uud luortilicatiou ol' ]iis oiiioers — ahau(U»ned
;i course which was to render his successor ilhistrious. As
iii.iy easily he iiuan'iueil. the uiauiu'r in whicli lioss had cou-
(hu ti'd tliis expedition failed to satisfy tlie authorities at
Inline; and thus, in the foHowiny year, the ''llfcla' and
•driper' were coiuuiissioued for the purpos(^ ofexplorin;;' the
sound, Avliose entrance only had been seen hy llatliu and
Md.-s. The former ship was placed under the comiuaud of
Parry, and the latter under that of Lieutenant "Matthew
hiililoU.
With this brilliant voya<i;e, the e}»och of modern discovt'i-ics
ill tlie Arctic ( )cean may [)roperly he said to Ijcj-iii. Sailinn'
rlu'ht throiMji'h Lancaster Sound, over the site (d' J'oss's ima-
i^inary (*roker mountains. Parry passed Barr(»w*s Strait, and
lit'ti'r ex[)lorin!4' Prince lieoent Lidet, wlience the i<-e cnuipelled
liim to return to the main channel, he discovered Welliuo-ton
Clianricl (August 22), and soon after had the satisfaction of
iiininuucino' to his men. that, having- reached llo""' W. louo-.,
ihcy were entitled to the lviiiL;'"s hoiinty of -">,<•( td/., srciired hy
nnl'-r (){■ coiuicil to 'such of His ^Fajesty's subjects as niio-hf
succeed in penetrating thus far to tlii' west with in the Ar. Wr.
*'Ii'(,'ie.' After passing and naming' ^lelville Island, a little
[irugress was still nrade westward ; l>ut the ice was iiow
ni}iitl1y gathering, the vessels were soon liesct, and, altei-
'irttingfreo with great <litlicnlty. Parry was only ti'o glad to
turn l)uclc and settle d(»\vn in Winter Harbour. it was no
'■a>y task to attain this dreary prn't, as a canal, 1\\i' uii!(s
aiiil a third in length, had fii'st to be cut tliroiiMh s. 'lid ice of
si'Vcu iiudies average thickness; yet such was tlie energy of
til" men, that the herculean lahour was I'xecuted in three
'lays. The tw(»vessels v/ere iniuie'liately uurigu'd. the decks
li'Mi^eil over, a heating apparatus arraiigeij. and evcryt liing
iiiaije as comfortable as possihle. To relic/ve the nioiiotouv
'■nii(.> l(iug winter's night, plays were acted every fortnight,
a School established, and a n('wspa[M'r set on foot- certainly
.■J91
•niE I'OI.AR WOUIJ).
the first periodical ever issued in so liiyli a latitiule. Duriii'^'
the day, the men were eniploj^ed for exercise in bunking' U])
the ships with snow, or makin^^ excursions within a certain
distance ; and when the Aveat her forbade their leaving;;' sheUcr,
tliey were obliged to run round the decks to the tune of a
barrel -oro-an.
In January the cold became more and more intense. On
the 12th it was 51° below zero in the open air, and on the
14th, the thermometer fell to 51°. On February 21, a tiro
broke out in a small house which had been built near tlic
ships, to serve as an observatory for Captain Sabine, who ac-
companied the expedition as astronomer. All hands ruslif(I
to the spot to endeavour to subdue the flames, but having;'
only snow to throw on it, it was found impossible to extin-
o-uisli it. The snow, however, covered the astronomical in-
striunents, and secured them from the fire. The thermomotov
Avas at the time 41° below zero, and the faces of nearly the
whole party o-rew white and frost-bitten after five minutes'
exposure, so that the sur^-eon and two or three assistants
were busily emjdoyed in rubbing- the faces of their comrades
with snow, whilt.' the latter were working' might and main
to exting-uish the flames. One poor fellow, in his anxiety
to save the dipping- needle, carried it out without pnttiny-
on his g-loves ; his hands were so benum" 'd in consequence,
that when plung-ed into a basin of cold water, it instantly
froze, from the intense cf)ldness imparted to it, and it was
found necessary to resort, some time after, to the ani2)nta-
tion of a part of four lingers on one hand and three on the
other.
February 3 was a memora])le day — the sun being- visil)le
from the maintop of the ' Hecla,' from whence it was last
seen on November 1 1. The weather got considerably mildtn-
in March ; on the Gtli the thermometer rose to zero, for tlio
first time since December 17; and on April oO it stood
at the freezing- point, which it had not done since Septem-
ber 12.
At leng-th INIay appeared, bringing the long summer's
day of the high northern latitudes ; l)ut as many a week
must still pass before the vessels could move out of their
ice-bound harbour, Parry started on June 1 to explore the
i:\im:i)iti().v>; of fuankijn and liicirARDi^ox,
.^{i5
I a covtain
ing slu'ltcr,
3 tune of a
itense. On
{iu("l on the
y 2-1, a, fu'p
lit near tlic
inc, w^^" '"'
.ands ruslif<l
, but haviiii;'
)le to extin-
ononiical iii-
tliernionicter
of nearly the
five minutes'
•oe assistants
leir comrades
lit and main
liis anxiety
lOut putting-
consequence,
it instantly
, and it avus
tlie ampnta-
tliree on tlu'
beino- visilAe
?e it was last
erably milder
zero, lor the
1 :10 it stood
ince Septeni-
luo- summer's
^uany a week
out of thrlv
,» explore th«'
interior of the island, Avliiidi at tins early period of the
siiisMii still ^vore a veiy dreary aspect. But such was the
i;i]ii(lity of vegetation, that by the end of the month the
!;iiid, now completely clear of snow, was covered with the
j.iirple-coloured saxifra;^n> in blossom, with mosses, and with
sdvrtd, and the grass was fn)m two to throe inches long,
'llic pasturage appeared to be excellent in the valleys, and,
to judge by the numerous tracks of musk-oxen and reindeer,
tlitiH' was no lack of animals to enjoy its abundance.
It was not before August 1 that tlu^ ships were released
\'yn\n their ten months' bh^ckade in Winter Harbour, when
I'arrv once more stood boldlv for tho west ; but no amount
(if skill or patience could penetrate the obstinate masses of
ill' that blocked the passag'o, or insure the sai'ety of the
vt'sstds under the repeated shocks sustained from them.
Finding the barriers insui)erable, he gave way, and steer-
iiit;' homeward, reached London ou November ;>, 1S20,
wlicre, as may well be innigiricd, his reception was most
I'litliusiastic.
^\'hile Pany -was engag<:'d on this wonderful voyage. Lieu-
tenant Franklin and Dr. Richardson, accompanied by two
inidshi])men, George Back and Robert Hood, and a sailor
.inlm Hepburn, to whom were added during the course of the
jiiuniey a troop of Canadians and Indians, were penetrating
hy land to the mouth of the Coppermine River, for the pur-
jii'se of examining the unexplored shores of the Polar Sea, to
tho east. An idea of the difficulties of this undertaking imiy
lie formed, wlien I mention that the travellers started from
Fort York, Hudson's Bay, on August oO, 1819, and after a
lioiit voyage of 700 miles up the Saskatchewan arrived before
winter at Fort Cumberland. The next winter found them
""" miles further on their journey, estaldishcd during the
'XUvine cold at Fort Enterprise, as they called a log-house
liuilt hy them on Winter Lake, whore they spent ton months,
'I'l'iiiding upon fishing and the success of their Indian
liuiitiis. During the sumnu'r of 1821 they accom[>lished
>1h' remaining 'VM miles to the mouth cd' the Coppermine,
:iiid on July 21, Fraidvlin and his party end)arked in two
I'iii li-biirk canoes on their voyage <d' exploration. In these
"iiil sjnillops they skirted the desolate coast «d' the American
OOG
Till-: rol.Alf WORLD.
ooniiiifiil •")."").■■) miles io tlie oast of the (Joiii>orinliio ns fiii- iis
Point Tiii'iiii^'ain, avIicu ilu; nipid deeroiLse of tlicir inovisions
aii<l the sliatterc'd sttiti' of the canoes imperatively eomiicjlcd
their return (/Viii'-nst '22). And now be^^iin a drea<lful iiiinl-
Joiiniey of two months, aceonipanied hy iill tlie hori'ois of
cold, lamine, iind fatigue. An esculent lichen (tripe t\r
rociiel, wilh :iu occiisiouiil pt;irniie-iin. formed their scuiitv
food, l)nt on very many days even this poor sujiply conld iii.f
l)e ohtained, and iheir appetites Ix'canie ravenous. Sdini.-
tbnes they had the e>ood fortune to pick up pieces of skin.
and a, few Ijones of deer which had heeu devoured liv {]]<■
wolves lii
ih
]>revious s[»rjn<
The bones were riMidcifd
triable by burning-, and now and Uivn their old slioes \V(
added to the re[)ast. On r(,'achinn" the' C*oppermine, ti rait li;
to be fi-amed, a taslc acconi[»)ished with the utmost diilici
illv
by the t>xhausted party. (.)ne' or iuH) of the Canadians Iniil
ah-eady fallen behind and never rejoined their comrades, aii.l
now llood and three or four more of the party broke dnwii
id could ])roceed no farther. Dr. Jlichardson kindly voliiii-
:u
teerin^' to remain with them, while Back, with the )
iiii>
vi^'orous of the men, pii
di».'d on to send succour from I'eit
Enterprise, and Franklin followed more slowly wilh the others.
On reacliinn' the lo^'-house this hist party found that wretched
teneniemt <.lesolat(\ with no de[)Osit tjf provisions and no truce
of the Indians whom tliey had ox]K'cted to meet there. ' It
would be impossible/ says Franklin, '■ to describe our seiisa-
tions after entering- this miserable abode and discover in u' liuw
Ave had been nep^lected ; the whole ]>nrty shed tears, net >^u
much for our oAvn fate as for that of (.)ur friends in tlie rciH'.
whose lives dejiended t'utirely on our sendin;^' immediate ri'lit f
from this ])lace,
Th
leir onlv conso
Lit
ion was a t»lea
111 I'l
hope alforded them f)y a not<' from Back, statine- that he liiil
reached the deserted hut two days before, ami was jn'oinu' in
search of the Indians, The fortunate discovery of sunt'
east-otf deer-skins, and of a heap of acrid liones, a provi^ien
worthy of the plate, sustaiiunl their tlickerin^' life-llaiiie.
and alter eiLihte^'u miserable days tln^y wore jctined by Dr.
Jtichardson and IIe]>burn. the sole survivors of their j avtv.
Lieutenant Hood, a youn<j;' olticer of ^'ivat promise, haviai:'
been murdere(l bv a treaclieroii-; Canadian, whrun b'irharil-".'!
I'AKIIV S SKI OM) VOKVt.i:.
\o lis tar ;i>
r pvovisiniis
nulful laml-
> llolTol'S (il
:lieir sciiuty
ly could in'l
.e<>s of skin.
lUred I'.v t!i"
ere vi'ii'lfVi'il
iKStivaft h;!<l
lost (li1]i<'u]ty
auadiaus had
omrades. au^l
y brolvt' 'lowii
Uindly voliin-
.itll lllO l»('>t
»ui- from Tuvt
iilitlio others,
that wretched,
saml no trai'O
et there. 'It
lib(' our t-u'iisa-
seoveriuii" how
1 tears. ii"t ^"
Is iu Hie vnw.
nuediat.<>r.'Ui t
s a o-leaiu nf
,o- that h.'lui'l
wai? -■(.in-- ill
vory <»f ^■'""'
jos, !i provl^i"'.'
^no- life-llaiiie.
joined l>y iH'.
)f their vavty,
loiuise, havia'i
1,111 TJirhara-oi!
w a > a
(Verwards ohlio-cd t,, slioot throuLih the head in s.'lf-
(l.'ti'lU'O
• rpoii cntcriiiLi" the di'solato dwi'liiii^',' says Jviciiartlsou.
\\r had tlie satist'aetiou of cinhraciuo" ('ii[»taiu Franklin, hui
||M wo
ids can convev iui i(h>a of the tilth and wrrtcliiMli
It 'SS
ihat iiM't our eyes OH lookino- around. Our ouu mis -ry had
>t<.|''n upon us hy dc^'reos, and we wt'vv aecustonuMl to tho
(■(.iilem[tlallon oC <Mrh other's oinaciated tio-urcs; hut Ih^
L;hastly counteuaiu'os, dilated eyehalls. and st'|tulcdiral v<
)UH'S
bantam iraulcliii and those w
vith 1
dm, M'crc more t lian we
nil
iM at lii'st hear.' At lem,dh, on XctM-mhcr
wiu'U nil
|>'\V
m'vi\'ors of the ill-fated expedition d<>i" most et tiie
vn\a'4er8 dietl from slu'ev oxhaustioii) were on the point of
>inkin<_i- under their sutl'evino-s, three Indians sent hv T
»ae
^viil'Sl
plMI:-
exertions to proeure tliem relief had heen Iteyoml all
hroU"''
ht ihem the succour thev liad
so loll''" l»een
wailiiiLt' foi". Tlie ea<j-erness with which thev feasted on dried
meat and excellent tont^aies may well Ite ima.'_;ined : lai) severer
pains in the stomach .soon warned ihem that attca" so Ioum- jm
;ih>tinenco they uiust bo exce<-'din<.;-ly careful in the ([Uantity
lit' lood tals'en. In a Ibi-tniu'lit's lime thev hadi sidlicientlv
ivrl
uited their streu^'th to be able to join |>aek ai ^loo
Divr Island, and in the Iblhuvini;" \e.ir thev returned to
■land.
irrv s second vovau'c ot Oiscovt
f di
'rv (I^-Ji-b^L':
); was un-
'lii'laken for the purpose of aseertaiuiu<4' Avhethera coiiimiuii-
'iitleii udi^ht: lie found Vu'tween Ive^'ent's Inlet and Itowe's
W'l'lcnnie, or throuo-li lte[inls«' Hay and thence to the iioith-
\vc>t"rii slnu'es {
f A
mevica.
'I'he iirst summer ils:!!', w,
H'lit in the vain attcjupt of Ibrcin::' a way throUL;h l'r«>zeii
liait, Itcpulse Bay, the lai\L
masses ol u-e iii t Ih
uat.'i's
IfMiiiL^' the ships helplessly in tla'ir Liras)), a iid otlen (.arry iiii;
ili'-ia liaidc in a few d;!vs (o the vi'rv spot uliiidi tli"v had
let', a month before. ()\vinL;- to these relaitfs. the .-eiison
caiiie to an cud while their eiilei'pi'ise was y-cl scarcejv
'•''L;im, and the shii)^ took u[> their <piai'ti'rs in uii open I'oail-
>icad at Winter Island to the south of Mehille i'enin.^ula.
i)i>i(les the winter amusements and Oi-ciipations (I' ilie tii-st
\e\aM'(>, the nuvnotony (tf the winter was pleasaiiily lir'.ken
'luriii'j,' Fid)ruarv bv friv'uillv visits from a iKii'Sof I'lsiinimaux.
.'198
Till': POI..\l{ WOIlM».
Ainoiio' Hh'S" ii vouiiu- w<»iiiim l!i<i'liiik (lisiin<;-ni,slir<l li<'isri('
by Ikt iiilciils. llor love i'or music iiiiioiiiit(.'d to a piissioii,
aiul her (luickiioss of eoinpri'lieiisioii was sueli that slie souii
became an established interpretei* between her own ]»tM>|i|,
and the English. The natm'e of a map haviii;^ beiMi ex-
plained to her, she readily sketched with chalk upon lli,'
dock the outlines of the adjoining* coast, and continuiiiL:' it
farther, delineated the whole eastern shore of Melville JViiiii-
sula, roundin*^" its northern extremity l^y a lar^'e island iind
;i strait of snlKcient maf^nitude to afford a safe i)assai4e t'ni'
the shii)S. This infonnation fjfreatly encouraj^a'd the wlmlc
pai'ty, whose san^'uine anticipations already fancied the worsl
part of their voya^^'e overcome, and its truth was eagerly
tested as soon as the ships could once more be set atluiil,
which was not till Julv 2.
After runniug" the greatest dangers from the ice, they ;it
length reached the small island of Igloolik near the entraiue
of the channel, the situation of which had been accurately
laid down by the Esquimaux woman. But all their elfurts
to force a passage through the narrow strait proved vain, I'ni'
after struggling sixty-five days to get forward, they had only
in that time reached forty miles to the westward of Tgloi>Hk.
The vessels were therefore again placed in winter-quavii^'is
in a channel between Igloolik and the land ; but having as-
certain(^d by boat excursions the termination of the strait,
Parry thought it so promising for the ensuing summer, tluit
he at once named it the ' Hecla and Fury Strait.' But
his hopes Avere once more doomed to disappointment
by the ice-obstructed channel, and he found it utterly im-
possible to pass through it with his ships. His return to
England with his crews in health, after two winters in tlu'
high latitudes, Avas another triumph of judgment ami
discijdine.
In the following year two new expeditions set sail t'er
Polar America. Captain Lyon was sent out in the '(Iripi'i",'
with orders to laud at Wager River off liepulse r>iiv.
and thence to cross Melville Peninsida, and proceed over-
land to Point Turnagain, where Franklin's journey ende'd.
But a succession of dreadful storms so crippled tlu'
' CJriper,' while endeavouring to proceed onward up Iio\ve>
IICTLUX OF TIIH ' HI' (LA To KXCiLAXO.
;5i)0
lied I'.cvsi'if
> a [)iissinii,
at slio SI Hill
own i>t'<i]il
<>• boon tx-
k upon 1lic
i>iithiuini;' it
villc IVnin-
; islaiitl iiinl
passaii't' t'nr
d the wlioli'
LOcl tilt' \\i <v>\
WiXii caLivrly
le set atloat.
) ice, they ut
the entraiui'
['11 aceiiratcly
their elVovls
oved vain, t'"i'
they had <'iily
d ol' T^-k>tililv.
iiter-qnarl .vs
it haviuLi" 'i^-
of tlie strait,
Isuininer. that
Strait.' But
appoiutiuiut
t utterly im-
lis return tt»
riuters in tlu'
dtjfnieut 'lu*!
set sail t'nr
the '(!rip*"iV
tiepulse l'''}-
Lroceed over-
[urney ended,
leripph'*! thi'
fd up Kowc >
Wrleome, that it became necessary to return at once to
lliiu'Iiind.
Siieli was the esteem and atfeetiou I'arry had acquired
ainniit^' the companions of his two former voyaij'es, tlnit when
111- took the conniiaiid of a third ex[»edition, with the inten-
tion of seeking a passa^v tlirouyli I'rince JJe^'ent's Tnk't, tliey
all v(»hinteered to accompany him. From the mid(Ue of July
till nearly the middh> of September (1821), tlie * llecla ' and
llie ' Fury' laid to eontend with the enormous ice masses (»f
i!atlin*s liay, which would infallibly have crushed vessels less
stoutly ribbed; and thus it was not bt'fore Seplcmbrv |0
that they enti'red Lancaster Sound, which they found clear
of ice, except hero and there a solitary beri^-. But new iee
now beo-aii to form, which, increasing' daily in thickness,
hcsct the ship, and carried them once more back ao-aiu into
iJatlin's Bay. By perseverance, however, and the aitl t»f a.
strong- easterly bree/e, Parry re^'ained the lost ground, and
(•u September 27 reached the entrance of Port Bowen, on the
eastern shore of Prince Ilef;-ent Inlet, where he passed the
winter. By July P.), the vessels were again free, and Parry
now sailed across the inlet, to examine the coast of North
Somerset; but the floating ice so injured the ' Fury,' that it
was found necessary to abandon her. Her crew and valu-
ahlcs were therefore received on board the ' Ilecla ; ' the
l>i'ovi;uons, stores, and boats were landed, and safely housed
nil Fury Point, otf North Somerset, i'ov the relief of any
wandering- Esquimaux, or future Arctic explorers who might
rliaiice to visit the spot, and the crippled shij) was given up
to the mercy of the relentless ice, Avhile her companion made
the best of her way to England.
In spite of the dreadful sufferings of Franklin, Pichardsoii,
and Back during their first land journey, we liud these heroes
niice more setting forth in 1S2-"), determined to resume the
survey of the Arctic coasts of the American continent. A
tar iimre adequate preparation was made for the necessities
"f their journey than before, and bef(n-e they settled down
fni' the winter at' Fort Franklin,' on the Shores of Great Bear
hake, a journey of investigation down the Mackenzie lliver
f" tlii^ sea had been brought to a successful end. As soiai
'!> the ice broke in the following summer, they set out in
•Ut)
iiii; I'oi.Au \\<>in.i>.
i I
loiu' IxMts, iiixl si'paiMlt'il iit ilic poiiil \vli» to flu.' river dividis
into two uiiiiii liriiuclii'-!. Fraiilclin iiml I»ac!c i>r<»|)(>.siiii4' t.»
siirvcv llif t'oasl-liiic ((» tlic wcstwiird, wliil' JJieliardson si t
niii ill ail casierly dircrtion to tli<> imiulli of llif ('(ijipfriniM"
itivcr. Franklin arrivrd at tlic ni(»iilli of lli
.Mi
IcKciizh
on Jnly 7. wiici-c a lar^'c trilx' of l''s(ininiaiix piilai^ctl 1
Jmais. and ii was <tnl_v liy ;4'r('at jtrndriicc and forbear
ii>
nil
\\;i>
that tite wlndo party wci't' n(»t masHacrcd. A full iiKnilli
iictw Kjtoni in the tedious survey of o7 1 miles of coast, as I'm'
as
Ret
urn
lieef, more than 1.0(10 miles distant IVoni tl
ii'ir
Tl
le fet urn |ourin'\
Avinter-qnarters on (Ireat liear Lake
Fort Frankliu was sal'elv aeeomidislied. and lliev arrived
He
Uii'
IMIll
their house on Septendji'r lil, where they had the jiieasi
lindin^" Dr. Iti* hardsou and Lieutenant Kendall, wh(». on 1
]>art, had reaehed the ( 'o[)itermiiie. thus eouneetin;^' tSir .1
Franklin's former discoveries i-j the eastward in t'oronatiu!i
<»nlf with thos<> nunh' ity him on this oeeasi<iii to the wrsi-
Avard of the Mackenzie. The eohl during* the second wiiiti r
at Fort Franklin was intense, the thernionieter standiiii;' ;i!
one time at oH"^ below zero; hut the comfort they now enjovril
formed a most pleasiuL,'' contrast to the sijualid misery ni
.L'\irt Enterpri
se.
When Franklin left Eni^land to ])roceed on this exj
ICtll-
lion, liis first wife was then lyiujj,- at the |M)int of death, aii'l
indeed expired the day atter his de])artnre. But with 1
li'lMii'
fortitude slie nr-re*! him to art out on tiie v
ei'v (lay a]ipo!
lit. Ml
CMitreatin^- him, as ho vahied her peace and his own <j:
(ll'V.
Hi
d
IS teelma'S iiniv
jiot to delay a moment on her account,
ho innif^'ined, wd)en. he raised on (larry Island a silk llnu'
• — which she had made aiid ydven him as a partinLr.U'ift. with
the instruction that he was onlv to hoist it on reachiiiL;- tin-
Pcdar S
ea.
While Parry and Franklin Avere th
us severally enipit
I l\\'U
in searching" for a. western ))assa^*e, a sea expedition, umlrr
the command of Captain Beechey, had been sentto Behrinu'-
Straits, to co-operate with them, so as to furnish provi>i"ii>
to the former and a conveyance home to the hitter — a task
niore easily planned than executed ; and thus we caiim't
wonder, that when the " Blossoni ' reached the appoiutoil
jdace of rendezvous at Chamisso Island, in Kotzebue SoiiinI
I'AUKV <i.N TlIK ](IMI1;L1).
401
ivt'V diviili >
MlUrklMl/.M'
II inoiilli was
(•■lasl, ii^ l';it'
t IVoin lli'ii'
rii jouru»'v In
,.V MVvivf'l ill
ir pU'iisinv "t
\vliu. oil '1"''''
in Covoiiiili*'!!
11 to \W ^\■•'>''-
si'coutl wint'V
i.v siaiulinu' ii'<
■ v noNV t'lij-ivi'l
lid Dust.'vy of
this ('Xi»''Vi-
,r diNitl'. iiii'l
,nl \vitli U''i'"i''
|<iay •aiiiH'i"t'''l.
u i\HdinLi-s iii'''y
Ind a silk tl:'.;'
■tiller ti'it'*"- ^''■''^''
lu ivai'liiii^^- 11"'
ivally cini>l"yc'i
■ditiou, uii'l"'
uttoBcdivin--"^
latter--:' 1''^^^
lius ^ve f'li'""'^
lllio app"!"'^''^
,,t/ebiie Souu.l
I'Julv 2'>, lS2<i), slu' l\»uiid iicitlifi' I'arrv (who luid Idiiii' sliico
rrtMnii'd lo Eiiu;-lan<I) iioi- I'^rankliii. ^^'ttln' liar^;'*' ol" Die
•|;!nss()in' — -wliicli was dospatclicd In ilic eastward under
cliiirut' (;t' Mr. Elson — narrowly missed iiieetiim' llie laliei-;
\\>v wlieii she w;is stopped In' (he ice at I'idiit Darrt'W, she
\\;is (udv al^unt loO miles from lietiini Reel' the li'iiit of liis
( '.^
■nveries
toll
le westward of the Maekeii/.ii
III the year )S27, the iudetatin'abie J'arry uiiderdml^ one
(if til'' most extraordinary voyau'es ever perlbrmed l>y man ;
iM'iiiu' no less than an attempt to reaidi the North Pole l>y
lii'.il an<l sledi^'c traA'elline' over theici'. His ho[ies ot' success
wcie lonixkHl on Scoresby's authority, •who re[)orts havini^'
sri a ico-fields so tree I'rom (.'ither iissure or huniniocl:, that,
111 1 tliey not bei-n covered with snow, a coach miLi'ht have
1.1" ii dri\en manv lea'«'nes over tliem in a, direct line; but
when i^irry readied the ice-iields to tlie iioi'ih ^>i.' .Spifzljer;4'en,
he luuiid them of* a vei'v ditt'erent nature, composed of loo^c,
iuo'm'imI masses, intermixed with po<ds of water, -svhich
I'l'i
idered travelliuL!; over them extremelv arduous and slo
w
I'V
The strong" llat-bottomed boats, s[iecially prepared for an
;i!iijiliil)ions iournev, with a runner atlache(l to each side <d'
lilt' keel, so as to adapt them for sled^'in'^', had thus iVe-
i;U' iiily to be laden and indaden, in i-rtha- to lie raised over
ihf liiimmoeks, and repeated journeys backward and forward
■r the same Li'iMiund AVere the necessary conse(]uence.
iTi'quently the crew had to go on hands and knees to secure
a lodling'. Heavy sliowers of rain often rendered tlu' surface
"f tlie ice a mass of slush, and in s(ane places the ice took
1 1ll' form of sharp-pointed crystals, which cut the boots like
ponkiiives. But in spite of all these obstacles, they toiled
'lii'crfiilly on, until at lenn'th. alter thirtv-live davs of inces-
•;iii
t <lrudi'-erv, the discovery
was
ma(h'. that Avliile they
^"'le ap[iarently advancing' t(!wards the jiole, the ice-field on
^vliiili they were travellin.;' was drifting- to the south, and
t'nus rendering- all their exertions fruitless. Yet, though
ilisappointed. in his liope of planting his country's standard
"11 the northern axis of the globe, Parry had the glory of
ivaeiiing tin,' highest authenticated latitude ever yet attained
^2' 10' :)<»''). On their return to the ' Hecla,' which awaited
lii'iii. under Captain Forster. in Trenrenberg Bay, on the
I) u
402
TIIK I'ol.AK UOIil-l).
iiortlicrii roMst of Si>ll/l)OT^'on, Uw Ixuits ciK'onntoivd n
(liY'iidl'iil storm oil tin.' opi'ii sea, wliicli ohlii^-cd ilicm t<» Ijimi'
uj> I'oi' W;iM(Mi Fsliiiitl— one of tli(> most iioitlu'rly rm k,
of the tircIiiiM'Iii^o - wliorc, I'oi'luiiiitcly, u rcscrvi? Hii{>itly it
Iti'ovisions liiid been (l('[)osittMl. ' MviM'ytliiii;^' lj<'loiiM-ii|n- i,,
us," siiys Sii' Eihvanl Parry, ' w.is now (•oiii[)lL'tt'ly drciiclii'.;
by the spray and snow; we hail lu'en lifty-six hoius willion:
rest, and forty-ciyht at work in tlio boats, so lliat l>y th"
time iht'v were unloaded, Ave had baridv strcn-'th to ]i;r;l
thcni lip on the rocdcs. However, by dint of great exertiuii,
we luanay'ed to i^-ct the boats al)ove the surf, after whidi. n
hot su[)per, a, l)l.i/inn' llrt? of drifl-W(»od, and a few hnur«'
quiet rest, restored us." He who laments over the deuvu'-
raoy of the human race, an<l su[iposes it to have been iikut
vi!.;'oroiis or endowed with "greater powers of endurance in
ancient times, may])erha[)s come to a dillerent opinion \\ii.:i
reading' of Parry and his companions.
Thus ended the last of this ^-reat navip,-'itor's Arctic voya^v-,
B<tru in tli" year I7!><), of a family of seamen. Parry, at an
early ap:e, devoted himself, lieart and soul, to the professi'm
in wliich his father had ^'rowu old. In his twenty-eiL;lit!i
year he discovered Melville Island, and his subsequent t'X[M-
dition confirmed the excellent reputation he had acquired I'v
his (irst brilliant success. From the years 1821) to lS;jlv>v
lind him in New South Wales, as Resident Commissioner ' :
the Australian A«,a-icultural Company. In the year 1S;57. li
Avas appointed to or<^'anise the mail packet service, thou
transferred to the Admiralty; and after lilliiif>- the ]iost li
Captain Superintendent of the Royal Kaval Ilos'
Ilaslar, was linally appointed Governor of (jfi'eenM'ich
He died in the summer of IS.")."), at Ems.
Ten years had elapsed since (\iptain .i i Ro^ iii>'
unsuccessful voyaf^-e, when the veteran seaman, anxious t"
obliterate the reproach of former failure by som worthy
achievement, was enabled, throu<4h the munificence of !^i''
Felix Booth, to accomplish his wishes. A small Livorpi'
steamer, b<>arinjT;' the rather presumptuous name of the 'M -j
tory,' was purchased for the voyag-e, a rather unfortnniito
selection, for surely nothini;' can be more unpractical tliau
paddle-boxes among ice-blocks ; but to make amends for tliH
IJoSS I.N Tin: • \ KTOKV.
•]«)3
icouutoivd a
ilu'in to hi'AV
i-tlu'i'ly vtii'io
bcloll^'ill!^' tn
irly dnMi.h-';
so Ibiit l\v l!.'
(Mi'^'tU to luril
frr(>iii oxi'vtinii.
after Avlii''li. ;i
I a fi'W 1^""^'''
,>v the dt'-vu'-
hiive boon hkv.'
,f cndrnMiiCi' in
\t opinion wli' -i
, Arctic voya!2;t's.
iMU Tarry, iit ii:i
,0 tlio profession
s t\voiity-(>i!^'l'*l'
ul)SCfiuent i'XIk'-
liad acfiuiroiUn-
11S-21> to ISOl-vv.'
oiumissioncr ''i
10 year 18;)7,li'
?t service, tli-'''.
Ihio- tlie I'o^t '■■
val Il«'
oiu id
iiv^t"
,,iiili'
liuaii
Iby S0111 wi
Inn licence of ^i-
sniall I.ivorpo*'!
lame of tlie ' ^ i •
tliev imfortunate
lunpractical tlumj
L a mentis f"^' ^^'
(1 1'ltr, the eoiiniiandcr of Ihc cxpudition was lurlunatt' in liciip^
;ici'(iiiij)anie(l by liis iicpliew, Connnand'-r .Fames Ross, wlm,
wiiii every (piality of the seaman, uiiiled the /eal of an ahle
iiiiliiralist. Jfe it was who. hyhis well-exeeiited sled^-e jour-
IP _vs, made the chief diseoveries of the expi'dil ion, Itnt the
vev'ii^'e of the ' Victory ' is far less iNMnarkahh' jor successes
iiiliieved tlian for its niiexam]ded [Mvttraet ion durinLj;a period
ef live years.
The lirst season ended well. On An^'ust 1<), 1Sl*!>. tia^
'Victory' entered Pi-ince KeL;'ent's Fidet and reailied on the
l:;!li the spot wlit.M'i; l*arry, on his third voyage, had been ob-
liged to ahan(h)n Ihe 'Fury.' 'Jdie shi[» itself had heen swept
ii\v;iy; hnt all lier sails, stores, and provisions on land wrnv
t'liimd nntonehe(h The hermetically .sealtMl tin canisters in
which the flonr, meat, bread, Avine, spirits, suLi'ar, iVe., were
[>;icked, had presei'ved them from the attacks of the white
l.it'iirs, and they wen; found as e-ood after four years as tliey
liiiil l)e(Mi on th(^ dav when the ' Fnrv ' started on her vova<;'e.
h was to this discovery that the crew of the 'Victory ' owed
tiicii- sulwerpient invservalion, ibr how else could they have
I'li.-sed fonr -winters in tlie Arctic wast(\s'J
(hi Aufjust To, Cape (iaiTy Avas attained, the nnjst southern
[Miint of the inlet Avhich Parry had reached on his third
ya'^e. Yo<fa and drift-ice oreatly retarded the pro^-ress of the
expedition, bnt Ross moved on, though sk»wly, so that, aliont
till' middle of Septend)ei*, the map of th(> northern regions
was enriched bv some ;'')00 miles of newlv-discovere(l coast.
hiii now, at the beg'innin;^' of Avinter. the ' Victory' was obliyed
" t;dce refne-o in Felix TIarbonr, Avhere the nscdess steam
u'iiii.' Avas throAvn overl)oard as a nnisance. and the usnal
['ivparations made for spendin^j;' the ct'hl season as pleasantly
V(P
as iioss
ibh
The foUoAvine- spring* ;from ^May 17 to Juik- I-'i) Avas em-
jildved by James Ross on a sledge journey, which ItMl to Ihe
'liscovei of King William's Sound and K'ing William's
h;iii(l. dnring" AA'hich that courageous mariiier penetrated
^'1 fii the AA'est, that he had only ten days' jirovisions —
sriuitil ;aeasured out — for a return voyag"e of 200 miles
tliroiigh an empty wilderness.
Atb-r twelve months' imjivisounient, the ' Victory ' was
1} \> J
qp
404
TUK I'OI.AIl WOKI-I).
{'0
rc'leasocl from the ico on Soptoinboi' 17, aiul procoedocl on
luoro on lior discoveries, l^ut tlie period of lier liberty was
short, for tiftor adviincing* lluve miles in one continual battle
ay.iinst the currents and the drift-ice, she aii'iiin froze fisl
on the 'Jrth of the same month.
In the followiuLj spring we ag'ain see the indefatig\iMc
James Ross extendin<j" the circle of his sledyo excursions, and
planting- the British iiag on the site of the Northern ^ilwj;-
netic Pole — which, however, is not invariably fixed to one
spot, as was then l)elieved, but moves fnjm place to placL'
within the glacial zone.
On August 28, 1S:>1, the 'Yii-tory' — after a second iiii-
jH'isonment of eleven months — was warjied into open wa1ir:
but afti'r speiiding a wh(de month to advance four miles, sho
w*as encon)[)assed by the ice on .Septendier 27 and once wuny
fettered in the dreary wiMerness.
As there seemed no prospect of extricating' her, next
sunnner, they resolved to abandon her and travel over th."
ice to Fury Beach, there to avail themselves of the l)o;i1s.
provisions. ;md stores, which would assist them in rcadiiii','
Davis' Straits. Accordingly, on ]May 2!'. 1S:>2, the coldur^
of the 'Victory' were hoisted and nailed to the mast, wvA
after dianlcii\g a parting glass to the shij) with the c-rev,. aiul
haviui"' seen every man out in the cveninti', the ca])tain tei'k
his own leave of her. 'It was th(^ first vessel,' says Eos-,
'that 1 had ever been obliged to aV>andon, after having srrvnl
in thirl v-six, durin<>" a. period of fortv-two years. It was liki'
the last parting with an old friend, and I did not jtass the
point where she ceased to be visible, Avithout stopjung to lak •
a sketch of this melancholy desert, rendered more melan-
choly by the solitary, abandoned, helpless home of oiu' jmv
years, tixed in immovable ice, till time should jierfoviii vw
her his iisual work.'
After having, with incredible ditficidty, reached Fur
Beach, where, thanks to the forethought of Sir l-Mwai'i
Parry, they fortmiately Ibund a sutticient nundjcr of l)eat-
left f(»r their purpose, and all the provisions in good condition.
they set out on August 1 — a considerable extent of open
sea being visible — and, after much butl'eting among the ic'.
reached the north of the inlet l)y the end of the month. I'li'
l.Ml'inso.X.MKNr IN ICK.
405
1- liberty ^v;H
itumal battl''
ill iVu/.o i\\<
iii(lef!iti;j,'iibl''
enr.sions, ;inil
Dvtliorn Mag-
fixcd to out'
)laee to placi'
a stH'ontl iiii-
o opt'ii wat'T ;
xmv miles, slio
.111(1 once mi'vo
ilio- lu'V. lH'Xt
:rav('l over tl:'
s of the V.euis.
m in reaeliiii!,'
2, tlie cclonr-
l\e masi. ai:'l
the erew. 'Mu\
ic eaptain tonk
ici; says Res-.
liavin;4" s< rvnl
s. It \vas ]ik"
(1 not pass till'
toi)i>in-a' tolalv'
1 more iiiela;i-
1,10 of our ]'a>f
|ikl pert". 'Via »".'.
roaeliea Far;
l>f Sir Kdwav'l
InnVier of '" "-'^^
lov.odeoniliti"!'-
Extent of "l'^'"
lumono-tbeioo.
h,'!',' tliey were dooiii'd lo disai)pointiiieiit, for. afler several
tl"ss attempts to run aldiej; l»ari'
()\V
Strait, the ice
L^'ed tlieiii to haul their loals on slioi-e. and ])iti-h their
m
ss
(.Mi
t iits. Day after day th^y liiiLi-ered, till the third weelc
.Sept^'jiiber, biit the strait contiiiniiijL;" one impenetrable m;
(if iei\ it was unanimonslv aii'reed that their oiilv resonr<-e
was lo tall back a;4'ain on the stores at i-'iiry IJeaeh, an<l
llii'iv spend a Ibnrtli lon;^' winter within the Ai\'tie ('ircl(>.
They wore only able to «;'et lialf the distance in the boats,
which Avere lianled on shore in Batty Bay on Sejitcmbcr "J I,
iiiid performed the rest of their jonrney on foot, the jiro-
visioiis beiuLi' drau'ii'ed in sled>.';es. ( )n October 7 thev oni-o
iiinrc readied the canvas lint, diiiaiitied with the name of
•Somerset House,' which they had erected in July, on tlio
scene of the ' Furv's ' wreck, and which they had vainly
]i(i)icd never to see a^-aiii.
They iKjw set about buildin<^" a snow-wall four feet thick
iMaiid their dwellina', and stren^'theninu' the roof with sj)ars,
fnr the purpose of coverini;' it with snow, and by means of
tliis shelter, and an additional stovt', made themselves tole-
lalih' comfortable, until the iiicreasiiii^- s(vcritv of the cold,
and
[I'll
s a in I >ori'iy
the furious li'ales, confined tlicin within door
il their [)atience. Siairvy now be^an to appear, and
Sl'Vei'a
liliie.
1 of the men fcdl victims to the
sconrv'e
A I til
e same
csea
diu
lie ni'
•nth.
', cares for the future darkene(l the Li'loom of their situ-
I! : for, should they be disappointed in their hopes of
[lin^' in the ensuin;^' sumnun', their fiilin^- streiin'th and
liuishinL!: stores yave them but little hojx.' of snr\i\iny
aiintlu'r year.
It may easily be inue^ined how anxiously the nio\eineiits
nf the ice were watched when the next season (.pen.i!. and
wiiii what beatin*;' hearts they embarked at l!a1ty J!.iy on
Aii'^ust l'). Makiu^j;- their Avay slowly a nioic.;- the masst's of
i'-'O, with which the iuh't was encumbered, they, to iheir u'reat
j'ly, found, on the 17tb, the wide ex[»anse of IJari'ow's Strait
e[> '11 to navig'atit)!).
i'ii>hinLi' **"^ with renewe(l spirits, ('ap(^ York- soon lay
hciruid them, and altt rnately rtwvin'; and sailiuu", on the
iii-lit of the 25th they reste«l in a i;'ood harbour, on the
eastern sjiore of Xavv l>oard Tulet. At I- f>'clock on the
WW
40C,
Tin: I'CtLAK WOHLI).
f()llowiii<4- iiioriiin^', tliey were ronsed from tlu/ir sIuidIxi- liy
the joyful intellij^'t'Mce of a ship Ix'injj;' in si^j^ht, and never dil
men more hurriedly and eneru'etically set out ; but the ele-
ments Avere a;j;-ainst them, and the ship disappeared in llu'
distant haze.
After a few hours' suspense, the si^-ht of another vi s^e!.
lyin<4' to in a eahn, relieved their desi)air. This time their
exertions were successful, and, stran^'e to say, the ship which
took them on board was the same 'Isabella' — now redueti]
to the raidv of a private whaler— in which Ross had niiu.le
his first voya<^'e to the Arctic Seas.
The seamen of the 'Isabella' told him of his own deatli—
of which all Eui^land wa-. jiersuaded — and could hardly Ix-
lieve that it was really he and his party who now sto(jdbcfoiv
them. But when all doubts were cleared away, the riej-n-ino'
was instantly manned to do them honour, and thunderiii;^'
cdioers Avelcomed Ross and his gallant baiul on board ! The
scene that now followed caun<jt be better told than in lioss'ti
own words.
' Tliou<4'h we had not been supported by our names ainl
characters, we should not the less have claimed from clniriiy
the attentions that we received; for never was seen a UKirc
miserable set of Avretches. Unshaven since I knoAV not wIk'H.
dirty, dressed in the ra^'s of Avild beasts, and starved to tln'
very bones, our <^-aunt and <4Tim looks, when contrasted ^vith
those of the well-dressed and well-fed men ar(.)und us. nuule
us all feel (I believe for the first time) what we really wtiv.
as Avell as Avhat Ave seemed to others. But the ludiereiis
soon took the place of all other feeling's ; in such a crowd aiiii
such confusion, all serious thought Avas impossible, Avliile tli''
ncAv buoyancy of our spiiits made us abundantly Avilliiiu' t^
be annised by the scene Avhich noAV opened. Every man \v;i>
hungry, and was to be fed; all AA'cre ragged, and Avere to l"'
clothed: there Avas not one to Avhom Avashing Avas not iiidis-
]iensable, nor one Avhom his beard did not deprive eij' all
hunum senddance. All, everything too, was to be done at
once: it Avas Avashing, dressing, shaving*, eating, all ii
mhiglcd : it was all the materials of each j^unblctl together.
Avhile in the midst of all there Avere interminable (piestiiMis
to b(^ iisked and answered on Ixilh sides: tlie adventures ef
nOHS.s IJCTLUX TO llNd i.A.Nl).
•lur
oiuid us. inai
the "Victory," onr own escapes, tlu' politu-s of Eiij^'huul, and
the nt'ws Avliit.-Ii Avas iiuvv' luiir years old. But iiU suljsidod
into peace at last. The sick were accommodated, the seamen
(lis^iused of, and all was done fur us wliich care iuid Idndness
c<i!i!(l perform. Niylit id len<i-tli bruu^-lit quiet and serious
tlmiinhts, and I trust there was not a man among- us who
(lid not then express where it was duo, his j^-ratitude f<ir that
iiilerposition which had raised ns all from a despair wliieh
iKjiie could HOW foro-et, and had In-on^-ht us from the borders
efa most distant g-rave, to life, and friends, and civilisation.
Lnii^- accustomed, however, to a cold bed on the hard snow,
-a- the bare rocks, few cordd sleep amid the comfort of our
new aecommodations. I was myself compelled to leave tlu;
bed wliicli had been kindly assig-ned me, and talce my abode
ill a chair for the ni<4ht : nor did it fare much better with
the rest. It was for time to reconcile us t(» this sudden
and violejit chanLi'e, to break tlironj^h what had bt'como
habit, and to inure ns once more to the v.sayes of our former
ilay.s."
The 'Isabella' renniined some time lon^^'er in Baffin's Bay,
til prosecute the fishery, and thus our Arctic voya<,'ers did
lint return to Enj^Iand before October l-"), 18o:», when they
Were received as men risen from the o'l-nc. Wherever Itoss
iqtp'ared, he was met and escorted by a erowd (d" sympa-
thisers ; orders, medals, and diplomas i'rom for('i<4n state's and
Haviii'd societies rained down upon him. London. Liveriiool,
Ijristiil, and Hull presented him with the freedom of their
respective cities; he received the honour of knii^'hthood ;
and, tlumii'li last, n(.)t least, Parliament <i-ranted him o,<J0()/.
as a remuneration for his pecuniary outlay and privations.
it may easily be inuiL^'ined, that his loiiLi'. ]irotraeted
ahseut'C had not been alloAved to ])ass without awakoniu^;' a
stroiiti' desire to brin[>" him aid and assisianee. Thus, wlwii
^'aptain (afterwards Kear-Admiral Sir Georj^^e) Back, that
niilile Baladin of Arctic reseandi, volunteered to lead a land
e.\p<'dition in quest of Boss, to the northern shore of America,
l.iHin/. ^vere innnediately raised by public sidjscrlption to
'lelVay expenses. While deep in the American wilds. Back
*vas j^'ratilied with the Intel lij^'ence that the obji'ci of liis
■■''avrli liad safelv arrived in Inejlaml : but. instead of return-
40S
Tlir: I'OI.Ml WORLD.
inpf lioino, the indoi'ntif^altlo explorer resolved to tniee tin.'
unknown eourse of tin." Tlihi-it-sclio, or (Jreut Fish Eivcr,
down to the distant outlet wlun-e it pours its waters into (.lit;
Polar Seas.
It would take a volunio to relate his adventures in t!i",s
expedition, the numberless i'alls, cascades, and ra}>ids 1liat
obstructed his prog'ress ; the storms and snow-drifts, tiic
horrors of tlie deserts tlirouo-h which he forced his way. nntil
lie linallv (Julv 28) reached the mouth of the Thlu-it-selio.
or, rather, the broad estuary throuodi Avliich it disendjdiiucs
itself into the Polar Sea, Bis intention Avas to proceed t^
Point Turna<j,"ain, Imt the obstacles were insurmountable,
even by him. For ten days, the explorin;4' party had a
continuation of wet, chilly, fog^'y weather, and the oiily
veg-etation (fern and moss) was so damp, that it wcnild
not burn ; bein;^' thus Avithout fuel, thc'y had C)nly dnrin.;'
this time one hot nu'al. Almost without water, without aiiv
means of warmth, and sinking knee-deep as they procfCMliil
on land, in the soft slush and snoAV, no Avonder that sonic uf
the best men, benumbed in their limbs, and dispirited by tin.'
prospect l)efore then), broke out for a moment in riuu'imir-
ing at the hardness of their duty.
On August 15, seeing the impossibility of proceeding cviii
a singlo mih> further, Baek assembled the men aromid lain.
and unfurling the British flag, Avhich Avas saluted Avith tluve
cheers, he announced to them his determination to rctiiiii.
The difficulties of the river Avere of course doubled in tli"
ascent, from liaving to go against the stream. All \h'
obstacles of rcxdcs, rapids, sand-banks, and long portages lunl
to be faced. They foinid, as they Avent v-u, that many ol'tlii'
deposits of provision.-, on Avhich they relied, had been de-
stroyed by Avolves. Al'ler thus toiling on for six Aveeks. liny
Avere ultimately stopped by one most formidable ptr|ii'ii-
dicular fall, Avhich obliged them to abandon their bo;il : anil
proceeding on foot — each laden Avith a pack of about 7"> Hi^
Aveight — thev idtimatelv arrived at their old habitatien, Feit
Ri'liance, after an absence of nearly four months, (whaustod
and worn out, but justly proud of having accomplished s-u
ditlicuU and dangerous a voyage.
The Fish Pivor has since been named Back's Piver, in
F-XIM.oltATIONS (IF I'-ACK AM) SlMl'SOX,
401
to trace Uk.'
Fisli Eivrv.
.tei's into ill''
tares in lli'.s
rapids ilial
w-drit'ls, t!u'
lis way. until
Tlilu-it-seho.
(lisi.'iiib(i;^'ues
to pruecrd {><
nu'iinniiitaltl''.
party lia'l ;i
uik\ tlic only
tliut it wonl.l
I only during
■r, witlioiit any
;lu>y procoeclf-l
1- tiiiit some of
spirited by tlic
it in miirmur-
vococtlin'^" fVt.il
■n '.iroiUKl Llui.
Iited Nvitli tliiv''
1(11 i<» retniii.
til"
lonUed ii
•earn.
All tb'
ti
|;4 porta^e^
it nuniv •>
had 1
iix "NVCt
1,
)i'rli I
■ks. lli»'\
|id;il»le pt 'T
lu'ir lit'iil ••
|l' alxiiil 7
ihltatioa.
ail'
iVt
|tli>, »
.'comi
ICK fS
xliau--
ilit^lit'.
:ive
lidiicin- of its discovoi-cr : aiid surely no ^;'eo;i^'rapli!Ciil di.s-
tliictiini lias ever Im'ch more justly incritid.
This iudetiiti^Ml)lt' cxjjloi-fr liail scarcely returned to llu'j,'-
laiid i^>i'pt.S, IS^)-")), wlit'ii lie once more set out mi Liswav to
til'.' Arctic ro«^'ions; l)iit liis ship, the ' Terror,' was so dis-
abled hy the ice, that she was scarcely able to accomiilisli
the return voya^'e across the Atla.ntie, Avifhout allowing- lier
to ma Ice anv n('W (Uscoverii
a-
Tlie land expedition seiit out by ih" Hudson's iJav Coi
pany (18:]7 :>!>), under the direction of Peter Warren I)(^ase,
le of their (diief factors, and Mr. Thomas Simpson, ]»roved
el
far more successful. Descendiuo- (he 3lacki'n/ie to the s.-i,
they surveyeil, in July, l.S:')7, that [>art of tlee norlhcrn coast
cf America Avhicli had lieen left unexamined by I'rankliii and
Kls)ii in IS^-"). from lieturn Iveef to C*a[)e IJarrow.
Althouii'h it was the heiu'ht of summer, the o'v,,uiid was
TnlUH
11
rozen severa
1 inch
tl
les l-elow tUe snrlac*.'. ami tlie spray
1 th
tVn/c on the oars and riLf^iuL;' of their Ijoafs, which the drift
ice along' the shore uUiinately obli^ied them to leave l)ehind.
xVs they Avent onwards on foot, heavily laden, the frequent
iii'cessitv of wadinu' nn to tlie middle in tlie i
ce-coKi water
if the inlets, toivether with the c
111;
f( )14','
am
1 th
liari» iH)!
■th wind, tried tl
leir
|>o\Vi
of endurance to ilie
mun'st; l>ut Simpson, tlie lieni (d'lla' expedition, \vas not to
d.
dl
tieterreu iiv a. nvtnui
th
dua-t
(n
ll
i-ohit.' im[H
nor
d he sto') till he had reaidied i\»int Dan
OAV
i> ilil
Indeed, n
o
lauii Cdidil be more fit than he to h'a<l an expeditinn liivi' t his,
fir he had once before travelled 2.<H)U miles on foot in the
iddle of Avinter from Yorlc Factorv to Athabasca. Avalkinu'
lu
seiiietimes not less than oO mihs i
n one
dav. and Avithout
;iiiv
■rotection a<i'ainst the cdid lait an (trdiiiar\ (doth mantle
>ear
Alter wintering- at i'"ort ( 'oiiiidcnce. on <
the next season Avas ].ro'i!ali]y ciiiphiye
(.'"I'liermine Itix'er, and t rai Iul': iieai'iv I !" mih -; of lU'W coast
iU ([esci ndiii!
a Kc
th(
•1
1 ('
ipe Turnagain,
the 11
lllli IU
raiiklin s >nr\-ev m
•'1
The third season (Isd'.t) Avas still
nioi'i
a\ (lurei
1 1
'V
inie
for Simi>son succeeded in discovering theAvhole coast
b
K'VUIK
1 (
111)0
Tur
ua!'-aiu, as
far
Castor and I'ollux liiver
(August 2n, is:!*)), on the eastern si<le of the vast arm of the
^('•A which receives the Avaters of the Great Fish Kiver. On
•"HI
-no
Tin: I'OLAU WUKLD.
liis return vovau'c, lie traced sixty miles of the south coast of
Kiii^- AVillianr.s Islantl, and a considerable part of the lii^ii,
hold shores of Victoria Land, and reached Fort Conlidence
on September 21, after on(' of the lon<^-est and most success-
ful boat vovaii'es ever i)erf»jrmed in the Polar waters, haviiiL;'
teiv(}rsed more than 1,(500 miles of sea.
Unfortunately he Avas not destiiied to reap the rewards
of his labour, for in the IbUowin^- year, while trayellint;- {\\>\\\
the lied River to the Mississippi, where he intended to cm-
barlc for England, he was assassinated by his Indian o-uidis:
and thus died, in the thirty-sixth year of his au'e, one of the
best men that have ever served the eause of science In tin'
frozen north.
On May 2(5, 18 15, tSir John Fraidclin, now in the sixtieth
year of his a<i,'e, and Captain Crozier, sailed from EuLihrnd.
to make a new attempt at the north-west passai^-e. !Nevor
did stouter vessels than the ' Erebus ' and ' Terror,' well-tried
in the Antarctic 8eas, carry a liner or more ably commandiil
crew ; never before had human foresight so strained all lier
resources to ensure success ; and thus, when the commander's
last despatches from the Whalefish Islands, BatHn's Bay
(July 12), preyious to his sailing- to Lancaster Sound, ar-
rived in England, no one doubted but that ho was about
to add a new and brilliant chapter to the history of Arctic
discoyery.
His return was confidently expected towards the end of
18 I" ; but wheji the Avinter passed and still no tidings came,
the anxiety at his prolonged absence became general, and the
early })art of 18 18 Avitnessed the beginning of a series uf
searehing expeditions titted out at the public cost or h_v
jirivate munilicence, on a scale exceeding all former exaniplt.!^.
The Tloyer' and the 'Ilerahr (18 18) Avere sent to Behriiui's
Straits to meet Fraidclin Avith supplies should he succeed in
getting thithei'. In spring Sir John Richardson hurried to
the shores of the l\)lar Sea, anxious to find the traces of his
lost friend. He Avas accompanied by Dr. Rae, Avho had just
returned from the memorable land expedition (18l()-l'.
during whieh, aftiT crossing the isthmus Avhieh joins Mel\ illt-
Peninsula to the mainland, he traced the shores of Committee
Jjav and the east coast of Boothia as far as the liOrd MaM'V-
Tin: .sKAiuTi I'oi: siij joii.v imia.nkm.v.
411
itli coast (if
f the lii'/iu
Coiiiiilt-'ucr
jst success -
:crs, luivin-'
tlio rowiivds
vclUiiLi" i'l'-'"'
ided to •'Li-
lian guiil'^".
0, one o
nil
cieiice lu
tlic
L tlie sixtiftli
■0111 Enti'liiinl.
sao-e. Kfver
or,' Avell-triLMl
y coiinnaudcil
•allied all licr
coiiiiu'Aiulcr's
Baffin's Bay
er Sonncl, : tr-
ie ^vas aljout
Itory of Avctio
hs tlie cud «'t'
tidings came,
'ucral. and tli-'
,f 11 scries lit
lie cost or l\v
liner oxami'l'^'^-
It to Behriiu:":^
llie succeed iu
;on liurrieil to
le traces oC ln^
^vllolK>djust
on (181tl-l'-
1 joins Melville'
of Conniiittoo
Bovd Mil} "I""'
l!;iv of Sir Joliii Koss, thus proving' that desohite Imid t » be
liki'wise a vast peninsula.
But in vain did Eae and Richardson explore nil the coasts
li.twei'U the ]Mackenzie and the Coppermine. The desert re-
iiiaiiied mute ; and Sir James lloss ('Enterprize') and Captain
jljid '* Investigator '), who set sail iu June 1818, three months
;iiifr Dr. Kichardson's departure, and minutely examined all
the -liores near Barrow Strait, proved e(pially rinsuccessful.
Three years had now passed since Brankliu had been
expected home, and even the most sanguine began to des[iair ;
but to remove all doubts, it was resolved to ex]>lore once
more all the gulfs and channels of the Polar Si.'a. Thus iu
tlic vear 18.'")<), no less than twelve ships sailed forth, some to
lichring's Straits, some to the sounds leading from ]]allin*s
l!av.'' Other expeditions followed in l8')2 and iS.Vj, and
tliiiugh none of them succeeded in th(M)l)ject of their search,
vtt they enriched the geography of the Arctic World Avith
iiiiiiiy interesting discoveries, the most important of which I
will now briefly mention.
Overcoming the ice of Balhn's Bay by the aid of their
]i(i\vcrful steam-tugs, Austin, Ommaney, and Penny reached
the entrance of Lancaster Sound. Here they separated, and
while th<^ 'Resolute' remained behind to examine the
iK'iiihbourhood of Pond's Bav, Ommanev found at Cape
Kiley ^Xortli Devon) the first traces of the lost expedit'on.
Ill' \vas soon ioined bv Ross, Austin, Penuv. and the Ameri-
i"Uis, and a minute investigation soon proved that Cajx?
lN."li)-lS.")l.
lS.-)()-l.S."..').
is"''). IS.'il,
is.;>ii. ihoi.
iN.Mi, 18.")!.
IS.id.
IN-Vi. ]S,-)1.
' Iiivi\sti<rat(a'.' Cai'taiii 3I'Cliii'(\ 1 ...
... . ,,, . • /■, ir I- rnhrinL'.- Straits.
' J-.ntcrjinso, (, a]itaiii ( olIiiiMin, j
' Ilfsolutf,' C'ai'taiii Austin, i I/inra>tii- Strait a!i'!
' Assistance,' (.'ai'taiu < >iani;in(n', J (".aaiwallis Island.
Acciiiniiaiiieil I'V two steam tenders, eiJierml \>y Lieutenant
Slierard Os'iiiiiir and I.iiiitcnaut 1'". L. M'l 'linr'.rk.
•Lady Franklin.' .Ma-trr I'liinv. aei'on.iiaiiii d l.ytln' 'Suphia,
Alastrr A. Strwari. und.fr Ailiniralty Orders tu Laneaster
Strait and WtllinLitnn Oliaiun-l.
• Prinee Alln-rt. Ca] tain I'lirsyili. l'elun:Mna' to Lady I'raiiklin,
to Kejjfrnt's Ldet and Ilefcliry Island.
' Ailvaiiee.' Li< u'.eiiant I>e llavm. L'.S.N. t
• Krseiir,' S. J', tiiillin. K->|,. r.S.X. j
l-'itted at tke ( x]iinsc nt" 11. (iriiiiiell. I''s(|.. of N'ew "^"ork,
to riinii-aster Strait and \\'rlliiiL'ton C'liaiinel.
41
Tiir: roi.Mi woiu.d.
S]>on(:'or nixl Boochcy Jshiiul, iit the oiitriiuco ol" Welliiiutnu
('lianiicl, liad Ixm'ii tlio site of Fninlvliii's lirst wlnf^'r-qiiaiii r-,
(listiiictlv innvkcd bv tlie iviiiiiiiis of
avLre
^lorcl
Mil?
stav<'s of casks, ciiijity pi'imiiieau-tiiis, and most touc!:iii
vclic of all -a little ^•anli'ii sliapod iiilo a neat oval, l»v
(1
0\V(
r-lnviiii4' sailor, and lillcd with the few hardy ]
Snlipi
il;iiits
\v
hieh that Idcalc (dinu; can nourish. Mcainvhilo winh r
approached, and little iiiort' could he done that season; so
all th(! vessels which had entered Barrow's Strait now tiMil:
up their Avinter-cjuarters at the soutlu'rn extremity of CdVii-
wallis Land; with the exce])tion of the 'Prince AUuTt,'
which set sail for Eni^'hnid before Avinter set in, and of tin'
Americans, who, perceivin;^' the impolicy of so many slii]s
pressing' to the westward on one parallel, turned bade. Imt
were st)on shut up in the pa(dv-ice. which for oi^'ht Imiu'
months ke})t them prisoners. The ' Rescue ' iind ' Advance'
wore drifted backwards and forwards in Wellington (.'haiiinl.
until in Docend^er a terriJic storm drove them int(j Barrow's
Strait, and still fartlier on into Lancaster Sound. Sc\. nil
times duri))i4" this dreadful passa<>'C they Avcro in danger i'l
the ice o])eninj4- round them and cdosinj^' suddenly aj^ain,
only esca[)ed bein^' ' in[>ped ' by their small size and shvuL;'
build, which enabled them to rise above the opposiuL;' rdi^vs
instead (»f beinij;' crushed between them. Even on tlicir
arrival in BatHn's Bay, the ice did not release them frmn its
hold, and it was not till June i>, 1S5I, that they reached tli'/
Danish settlement at Disco. Afti-r recruitin«>- his exhan^ifil
crew, the ^•allant De Haven determined to return and pinsc-
onte the search durinu;- the remainder of the season ; but iIk'
discouraj^'iny' n^ports of the whalers iuducetl him to cImihl;''
his pur])ose, and the ships and crews reached Xcw 'i'drk at
the Ix'ii'innin^- of ()ctol.»er, having- passed throu«4'h perils siicli
as few have endured and still fewer have lived to re<M)uiit.
(iiii
Meanwhile the Euj^-lish searchin<>- expeditions had
111'
remained inactive. As soon as sprin<j,' canu^, well ori:;ni-
ised sledyv ex})editions were despatched in all directic
iii>
but they all returned with the same invariable tal" ol
disappointment.
As soon as "Wcdlin^-ton Channel opened. Penny boldlv m-
tered tln^ ice-lanes with a boat, and after ;i series of advcii-
ki;nm:i)V xv roiir i.iioi'oi,!).
-1 1 .1
storcli'iiM',
val, l>v sdiii''
liivdy pliints
.vliilt.' Aviiili r
if si'uson ; <>>
•ait now tnul:
iiity of ('"I'li-
•inet' AlliiTt,'
1, iii'.d <il' ill''
(> many sliii'S
led Irat/l^-. ''I'l
)!• ei^'liv 1 '111!'
lul ' Advaufr"
M'ton Cliainu'l.
into l>arr(i\\">
iind, Srwral
u (lan^vv iV<nii
ily au'ahu and
/A' and sli't'iii;'
pposinii' ''t-lil'cs
:vcn on tlioir
llieni fVdiii i\>
vy rcafla'd tli''
Ills exliau>u''l
in-n and pvoso-
as(.n; 1 nit the
liiiu to cliaii-o
Xcw York at
o'li perils sucli
1,) ivcoinit.
ions liad iini
,, ^v.-ll «'V-;'"-
tiU diivitiniis.
rialdf tal" "f
Inny boldlv tn-
• rios of advi'ii-
tiu'cs anil dittii'ultics, pcneti'alctl up (.)ii.'('n's ("lianncl, as iar
;i> JJ.irinj^ Island and ('ape litH'clicr, wIht;' lui'st rcliirtantly
111' was compidlcd to turn l>ai'k.
A tine open soa strt'tclicd mvitiii'/ly away to llio nortli,
ha: Ills tVan'ilc boat was jll-tMpiipp'Ml lur a voya^'o of dis-
ciwry. Fully pci'snadi.'d that FranUin must ]!a\t' loUowod
this I'outo, ]io tailed, lioweV('i', in eonvincin^' Captain Austin
of till' li'uth of liis theory, iind as, without tliat oHiccr's
!• )-njieration, nothin;;- could he elleeted. he was eoiin»elied to
t"llow the course pointed out hy the Admiralty squadron,
wliirli, after two inefi'ectnal attein])ts to enter Smith's and
.Immi's's Sounds, returned to Eu'^'land.
The 'Prince Albert' liavin;^' broULi'ht honu' in ISoO tlie
int ■lliL^'cnco of tlu» discoveries at JJeechey Island, it was
i'('S(i!\i'd to pi-osecute the search dnriui^' the next se;i;
iiini
no time was lost to relit the little vi
l
and si'Ui
1 1
on,
ler
I IICI'
mo'.'(! on ii(>r nohu' errand, uuilcr tlie cunnna;!
d of
W
1 1, a
m Kenned V ilS.M-o2), to oxai
una'
Prinee Pe^'^'nt'
liil''t on the coast of N()rth iSonierset. Finding;- the ]>as.s;iL;'(>
fili.strueted by a barrier of it-e, Kennedv v as o])li!>'ed to take
t;-l!
iporai'y refuL^'O in j'ort J-Jowm, on t!
le ea-tern
4
I'll'e ol
I'lv' inlet. As it Avas very undesir.'''!''. leiwever, to winter on
»])osite coa.st to that a.lon';' wiiiili hiy their line of sejrch.
th.'
iuM
in"dy with l'>ur of his men cros.-cd to Fort Ficopold, amid
la^.-M's of ice, to a>x*ertain whetlu'r any documents had been
•ft at this point by previous searching- parties. .Xone
■\y\u'^ Ix'cn found, they pi'cpared to return; but to their
UlSllKIV
they
now
found the iidet so blocked with ii-i' a-
ivuder it absolutely im[»ossible to rt>ach the vessel either i>y
lioat or on foot. Darkness was f;!st (dosinii' round them, the
i:'''-ilne on ^vhicll they stooil throateni.'d every insiant to bo
>liivered in frauanents by the contendiui'- ice-ldocks which
in!s|["d furiously aguinpt it: unless they instantly returned
111 shore, any monumt miu'ht ])rove their last. A bitter c()hl
aiii'lit (September 10, IS-M ), with no shelter but tlirir boat,
uiiih'r which each man in turn took an hour's rest -tlu>
nill'T:
tl
fatin'ued as tliey were, see
kiuL;-
sal
in hi- isle <'\er-
lisc— was s[)ent vn this inhospitable shoi'e, ami on the
thllowiu^' mornim.;' they discovered that the ship had disap-
l''ari'il. The drift-ice had carried her away. leavin|j;- Kennedy
•ii-1
Tin: I'til.AK W(.tUlJ».
and liis coiupnnlons to bravo ili«' ■wliift-r iis well a-s ilicy
could, and to ondiMVonr in tin' s[irinLr to rejoin iUrir vt'ss.'l,
Avliich must luivo drifted down iln' inlet, and was nmst likely
l)y this tinio imprisoned by the ice. Fortunately a. deiM.t ,,['
provisions, left by Sir James Hoss at 'Whah'r Point, w;is
tolL'rably near, and lindin'^- all in <4'ood preservation, Ihiy
bei^-an to tit up a, launcli, wliieh had been lelt at the same
place as the stoivs, for a temporary abode. .Here they siit
on October!", round a cheerful lire, niannfaeturin^' wiiitir
g'arinents and completely resi^'ne<l to their lot, "wlu^n stiil-
<lenly' to their inex[)ressiblo joy they heard the sound of well
known vt»iees, and Lieutenant Bell<»t, the secoml in connnainl
of the 'Prince All)ert,' appeared with a party f>f seven men,
Twice before had this ^-allant French V(»lunteer made nn-
availinry attempts to reach the deserted ])arty, avIio sunn
ib]-i;*ot their past miser}- as they accompanied their iVieihls
back to the ship. In the following" sprin;jf Kennedy iniil
Bellot explored North Somerset and Prince of Wales' Liiml.
traversing witli their sled<j;'e J,lO() miles of desert, but witli-
tnit discovering,^ the least traces of Frankli)i or his comradiv-.
Vet in spite of these frequent disai)pointments, the searchiii.:
expeditions were not p:ivon over, and as Wellin^^'ton Chaaml
and tlie sounds to the north of Eatlin's Bay a[)pear;Ml t^
offer the best chances, tin* sprint- of 1 ^-"i^ ^^'itiiesseil tin'
departure of Sir Edward Belcher and Captain Infj,'lefii'l(l'-
for those still unknown ree-ions.
The voyage of the latter proved one of the most success-
ful in the annals of Arctic navig'aticni. Boldly pushing" up
Smith's Sound, wdiicli had hitherto iDaflled every reseavcii.
Iny'lefield examined this noble chaniud as far as 7^';!"'^.
lat., when stormy weather drove him bade. He iu'n:
attempted Jones's Sound, and entered it sulHciently to sec it
expand into a Avide channel to the noriliward.
^^ 18:)2.
18.V2-]8:)l.
1S,V2-18.".1.
I8.v2-is:)i.
18.V2-18.-)L
18.-.'2-18.')l.
' I.-al'i-V Cajtaiii H. InL'ii'Hi'M. liady Frmikliii's vessel.
'Assistance,' Sir J-Mwanl Jiclclicr, to Laiu-astcr Souiiil, Wi !';
Cliaiincl.
Resolute,' Captain Kellett, Laneasler Strait, ;\Ielvil'.e,
liaiiks- Jslaixl.
' PiDUeer,' Lieutenant Slua'anl Oslmrue.
IntiY'iiiil," r'aj-ifain ^I-("lintuek.
' Nnrfli Star.' ('a|'tain I'ullen.
Tin; NiMMTi \\i;-<i' i'assai.i:.
I'll ii-i tl"'y
lirir vt'ss.l.
most likt'ly
y a (\r\>i>[ of
l*(iint. \v;i>
/iiiion, thry
ore they s;;t
„ Avlion s'lil-
=;(iun(l of AVcll
I in eonnnnu'l
,f SfVfll Ulfll.
>ev iu'.i*l<' iv.i-
llu'ir I'rii'iKl-
Keiinedy mu!
Wfiles' La ml.
^ert. l)ut Avilli-
liis coiuratlo .
tlic soarchiu'.;'
.•ton Ciianurl
appeared to
atuessoil tli''
in IngletioliV'
ii<>-
most sncces^;-
pusliing HI'
very ^e^^eln•^•ll.
ai 78^ :5i>' ^.
iontly to see it
:;liirs vessfl.
rait.
Tlic squadron -wliicli sail.-il iin.lfr llu> ooiiiiMaiid of Sir
Ivlward Uflclier was diar^i'd wltli lli<> (lonl)lc mission ol'
prosccutinL'' the discovcrii.'s in Wt'llin^li>n Channel, ami of
aii'MrJino' tissistanco to Coliiuson and .M'Clur.', who, it will
\\' vcnKMuhercd, Irad s.iiled in 18.')(> to Uchrinn-'s Straits.
At lj(veh<'v Island, wlicrc tlic ' Xorth Star' was stationed
;,> de[»(')t-ship, Ihe squadron se[)arated, Jieleher proeeeilin;;'
with tho ' AssistancL' ' and llie 'Pioneer' up AVelline'ton
Cliannid, whib KoIIett, with tlio ' Resolute ' and ' [ntrcpid,'
steered to tin.' west. Scarcely had the lattor reachcMl his
Avinter-quartovs (Soptoniher 7, 1852) at Dealy Tshiud, on the
'M)ut]i coast (if Melville Island, when parties v/eve sent f»ut
1 1 deposit provisions at vai'ious points of the coast, for tlie
sie(
li^-e parties in the ensuiny spriuir.
The ditricuUies of transport over the bi'olcen surface of the*
(losert when denuded of snow, may hi> estimated from thi>
I'll! t, that tlmuu'li the distance from the iiortli to the south
(■east of ISFelvilie Island is no more than :)<) miles in a direct
line
Lieuteirant IVI-Clintoek r(
'qnir
(M
1
no less
il
lan
1!» <1;
ivs
\n rciicli the lleela and Griper (.!ulf. Simihir dilliculties
;:\vaited Lieutenant JNIeehan on his w;iy to Liihlon (lulf,
hut he was amply rewarded hy lindine' at Winter Harlmur
«lis[)atehes from M'Clnre, sho\viii;^- that, in April, ls.")l, the
"Investiti'ator' was lyin^* in Mercy Jiay, on the opposite side of
llKs
Strait, and that consequently the nortli-wt^st pas
sa^n
o' '
t!ie oliject of so many heroic efforts, was at last discovered.
Oil ]\Iareh 0, 185:', the ' Ilesohite^ ' o])eucd her sprine- cam-
\Ki\'j:n with Lieutenant Pym's sledy,e journey to IMerey Bay,
te hrinu; assistance to ]\PC'lure, or to follow his traces in case
111' should no lonu'er he tliere.
A ujontli later three other sledev exjieditions left tlie ship.
led from the Ilecla and
U'Oceei
Till- (Mie under M'Clintock ]
Griper (lulf to the west, and returned atter K'O days, havim;-
t'.Kplered 1,200 miles of coast,— a slede-e journey without a.
{•arailel in the history of Arctic reseandi, thoue-h nearly
''juahed by the second party nndiu* Lieutenant Mecham,
Mclvilli. ;ii'l I wliicli likewise started to the Avest from Liddon Gulf, and tra-
•iled over a thousand
miles in iiiin
■tv-tl
iree diivs
Th
111
ird party, under Lieutenant Hamilton, which proceeded to
north-east, towards the rendezvous appoin
ted by Sir
416
'iiii; I'oi.Aii \\(»i:i,i).
Edward Jl'lrlicr ihc [iivccdiiiLf siuniin'r, was tin.' fir.sl tlml
rctiii'ui'd ti» llii' ship, l)iil I), 'rill-.' iU aniwil iiii''tli"i' partv
had r<tiiiil its way to tli" ' J* 'smIii'.i'," -|).iIi', wnni, ciiiai-iafi 1
ii^aircs, slowly cn'i'|tiiin' aloii^- over the niu'Vi'ii ii-c A s (imii <_;•(■ i-
lai^'lil have hi'i'u surprlsi'd at llic tlimidcriii^' liiin'alis wliicli
hailed till' ra^'m'il ii'oi<j» IVtim ii <listaiici', or at llic warm aii<l
coi'dial <_;'t'('.'iiii:i;s w
hii'li wdi-oiiii'il tlifiii on d'".dc, laii
lio
Avoiidfi- tliat M'CIun' and Ills lici-oic crew were thus itccIvi
hy tln'ir r('l!ow-s:Min"M. i\\\rv a thvci.' years' imprisoniai't
11 111
th
V lee (I
ftll
oiar hea.
()ii August I, l.-i'><», 1 1K" • rnvi.'stij^'ator,' l(in;,-;5iiic'e so|iarat('(l
from her cons »ii, t li" • J'hii('r[)iT;i','' had m.'i th" ' lIciMlir
aiu
I •]'!
over
it ('a4>
Li,>l
>urii('
(cvoiid J>i'hrin:fs Strali,
and now [>luiiy'('d alone iutotlie uiik'nown wlideriiesses of tli
Arctic ()*eau. She i-eaclied thi' coast of Da.nks' Land
(i;i
an
September (I, discovei-ed i riuce .\ Inert Land on the IMli.
then sailed u[) Prince <>{' \\';des' Strait, where, on Octolier l^
she i'ro/e in lor the winter. In the sami> in; nth, liowev
er. ;i
.sledg'i.' ex|)editiou was sent to tlie nta'lliern extrcinity of tli/
strait, whitdi established the fact of its cominnnicaliun witli
fa rry Sound and IJarrow's .'"■^tvaii. In the f'olJowinLj" Jiib.' n;'
' Invest ii;'ator,' tliongdi set free, was prevented from pcaetni-
tini^' into the sound, by impassable barriers of ice. Xotliinu'
now remained l)nt to return to the ,southei-n extrinniiy ofth'
Htrait, and then to advance aioiiL;' the v/ts! coa
Land to the north. This course
st of
.liaiilcs"
was followv'd with telc-
ibl
raijie ease
till Anii-ust 20, when tlu
I W:
driven
bet
Wcc-l
tl
le ice am
1 the Ijeacdi, a little north of i'rin^'e All)ert ('
iiiii'
Llero she lay in comparative saiety till the lilMh, when th''
immense floe to which she' was atte.ciied was r;;ised cdi^'cway-
out of the Avater, from the pressure of sui'rouiidin;^' ice. aii'i
lifted perpendicularly sonu: twenty-tive feet. The sli'^hti .-^
additional pressiu-e woidd have thrown the delicately ['oisctl
vessel entirely over, but, fortunately, a lar!4'(> piece fnnn
iniderneath Avas rent away, and after one or two fri>jlitful
oscillations the lloe rig'hted itself, and drifted onwards, bear-
ine- the ship nnharnved nj>ou its course.
DiU'inn'the succeediiiLi' nnndh,everv day bronnht its ]>ei'il>.
■•' '1 !.• so two vt's^rls ]i;ul ln'cn s(i',i in tlir vini' 1.S17 to llio I'"lnr Sr'
Bi'lirliigs S(r,iits. wlieu liiry (]:si;i.ivij'ud th" ■ ilt ral-i ' ami • I'lovcr ' Jslimd-.
riii; sr.AKi II i nv, i kanm.i.n,
■11'
rir.-,l that
\\\'V ]i;ivty
(•iii;ici;it. 1
A stviiii'.;'! r
rails wliiili
wai'iii ;i!^l
,-lc, lull no
lU-i Vrci'iv* '1
isoinni'Hi ill
(•(.' S('ll'.lV;itr(l
u'/n Strait ;-,
:io;!s;'s ci' til •
tliL' lull, a 111
,:i Oetnli.T'.',
I), linWcVt'l'. a
iviuity el' til''
iiioaUoii wiili
Iii^' July 111 '
■oin pi'".K'lv;i-
Xdtliiiiu'
Muliy (>!' til''
st <A iiaulcs"
(1 whli t«iV-
iVfU Ix'tWt'C'l
\l1)t'vt t'av'.
Uli, \vli'''i tb''
liii"* ii'''« ''"'
Tilt' sli'i'litost
"lieau'ly i'"l>^'''
« pi,. CO t'nnii
two tViulitt'il
lo'lit its V
\.,\\ I'm 1 asliiii'i' l)y th-' |»i'i's-;iirt' of tin' ire. iiuw hiirrit'ij
iiIuiil;' amidst its ciiclosiiiij; iiiassrs. tin' ailvtiitiircrs, slowly
wi'iKiiiL:' their way al(»ii<4' tlif iinrtli coast nf Hanks" l,aii(l, at
li'ii'jtli r<iiniil rctuuT ill a liarlHiiir touliicli the a|>|ti't>jiriat<'
inline (if Mercy liay was lliankriilly L;"iveii. Here they s|>eiit
1 \vn wiiit'.'rs" the jnterveiiiiiy' siimiiier haviiiL;' t'aileil to release
the sliip. Ill the s[trinyvot' |.*^'>.!. laeiiteiiaiit i'yiii hroii^'ht
ihi'iii tlie ,j<»yt'iil news thai the "liesolute' was not tarolV.
Sijcli had heeii the adventures ut" M"('lnre np to the inoiiient
wli.'ii Kellett welcomed him on hoavil.
.MiMUwhile neither the sled^-e ](arties of the ' ivesolute,'
ii r those whi(di Sir Mdward Uehdier had sent out in all
illreitiourt from his first wiiiter-t|iiarlers in Xort hiimherland
^nuiid (~{'° oli' X. lat.l, on the \vest sidt' of <Jriiine|| reiiiii-
>iila. had heeii aide to disco\-er the least traces ot' I'Vanklin.
Till' winter ( lt!');>-'> 1) passed, and in the following'' A[)ril.
Lii'iiteiiaiit ]\Iecham found in Prince of Wales' Strait,
;iiii| later (»ii Kamsay Island at its southern outlet, docu-
iihiits from Colliiisoii, bearing- date Auj^aist 27, ^>-')2, and
n' full intellie-eiice of his |»roce('diiie's since his separa-
nviu
"11
IVoiu the ' ]iivesti«;'ator.* While IVI'C'lnre was achleviiiu"
ill ls.')U the discttvery of the north-west i»assa^e, Collluson,
'riviiii;- arrived in ]».'hrln^'*s Straits later in the season,
was unable t(» (huible Point liarrow. In 1 .'^•M, howevei-. he
^'ii'i ded in {^'•ettiiiL;' round that projection and ['Ursulu;^- the
iiiutiiu'utal (diannel as easily as his {ireeursoi- had <lone.
I 'iliiwed him throu;^'h Prince of ^Vales' Strait ; but, thouj^h
li'' [M'uctratcfl a few miles further into ^Melville Sound, he
!"Und no passai;'!', and retiirniuL:' to the south end of the
"■'''iiil [tassed the winter of lSo|-.',2 in Walker I>ay. Next
summer he carried his shi|> through Dolphin and rnioii
""trails and Dease Strait to Canibridi^'e IJay. whei-e he spent
!ii>! second winter (1<S-'j2- '>:>). llissled^'e parties explored the
^ide of Vietoria Strait, but a delicieiicv of c(
lais coiu-
'." Ilil'c,.
I'.'lar
Js1;\ik1-
liiiii to return the way he came, insteail of alteiuptine-
a passa<i,"0 throne-h the cdiannel. lie did not. however,
round Barrow Pt>int on his return, ^vifhout [»assing' a
I'll ^\iiiter on the northern coasl of America.
'i! returnino- to the ' Pesohite " Lieutenant .Meeham found
liauds busy pi'eparinu' to leave the ship. Sir P. Delcher
418
THE roLAIt uoinj).
liiiviiif^' j^'ivcii <»i'Jevs to abaiidon Irt iis well as tliu ' Assistance.'
' Pioneer,' and ' Intrepid,' which had now been blocked ii|t
a1)ove a year in the ice, and had no chance of escapin{.>-.
Thus the siininior of 18.") i "witnessed the return to En-^lanil
of the ' North Star,' with all those brave crews which had sjn'iit
so many unavailino- etfurts, and in nunierons boat and slcijov
excursions had explored so many known and uidcnown coasts
in search of Franklin ; and thus also jNE'Clure and his comradcsi,
abandoning" the ' Investig^ator ' in Mercy Bay, returned Iiuihl'
tlirou<4-h Davis' Straits, after having entered the Polar Occnn
at the Strait of Belirini>-. He had, however, been precedcil
by Lieutenant Cress well and Mr. Wynniat, who, on an exciii'-
sion to Beecliey Island in the summer of I808, had tlu'rr iiiri
with and joined the ' Phcenix,' ('ai>taiu IniLflefield, who, ar-
companied by hi^ friend Lieutenant Bellut, had conveyed \av-
visiojis to Sir L. > Icher's squadron and was about to returii
to Eno'land. During- this expedition JJellot, whose many
excellent qualities had made him a universal favourite, wa-
mifortunately drowned by a fall into an ice-crevice duriiiL;' a
sledg'c excursion. A stone monument erected before (iiTtii-
wich Hospital reminds Eng'lan<l of the <j^allant volmitcci
whose name is g-loriously linked with tliat of Franklin in
Arctic history.
Years had thus passed without bringing any tidin<;S d
the ' Erebus ' and ' Terror ' since the discovery of their iirsi
winter-quarters, until at last, in the spring of 1851-, Dr. luu.
of the Jludson's Bay Conqtany, while engaged in tlu' -unrv
oi' the Boothian isthmus, tell in with a party of Esquiiiiiiin.
who informed lum that in the s[iring of 1850 some d linn
countrymen on King William's Island had seen a party ii
white men makini>; their way to the mainland. Nunc "t
tlu'Ui could speak the Esquimaux language intelligibly, Imt
by signs they gave them to understand that their slii]i> Inil
been crushed by ice, and that they were now going to wluit
they expected to iind deer to shoot. At a later date ( >f the saiuv
season, but before tlie In-eaking u[) of the ice, the bodies "t
some thirty men were discovered on the contiu'iit a da v ^
jom-ney from Back's (Jreat Fish River, and live on an islainl
near it. Some of thel)odies had been buried ([trobabjy ilie^
of the first victims cf linnine) some wcic in a tent, ctlicr-
Tin: sKAuni i\ tiir ' fox.'
41f»
<• Assist-.uuM'.'
u bloelcLHl up
■11 to En^i.inil
liicU luid ^peut
oat and sli^iV^i'
nkuowii ciiUfits
rt.'turuucl home
iie Polur Ocean
been prtKHnLa
o, on an exeiir-
, liad tlierr nut
Lolieia, wlio, ar-
a conveyed vtv-
iibont to rennii
t. whose many
J i'avi>nritt\ \va>
crevice duvin-i n
^•d before (Ivtvn-
k-allant vohuitiW
of Fraiddiii iu
•my tiainus -t
ery of their !u'^'
|n8r.l. Dr. I'ar.
L'd inthr uvvry
[v of r.^ciuuuauN.
1,0 si.nu- «'f tli.iv
seen a party ''t
dand. N""*' "'
iulrlH-lhly. ^""
Ibrir ships U'"^
^. o-uin- to \vhovr
,lalo(.fthosan.
|v. the h.Hli.'^-i
l-ontiu'id a.la\-
ifuv on an i>laua
|l ^probably il'«-
i„ a 1rnt,HUior>
niiili'v tlie boat which liad been turned over to form a shelte)',
;iii(l several lay scattered about in uifferent directions. Of
ihdse found on the island, one was supposed to have been
;m officer, as he had a telescope strapped over his shoulder
ami his double-barrelled <4un lay underneath him. The
mutilated condition of several of the corpses, and the ccmtents
(if the Icettles, left no doubt that our wretched countrymen
liad been driven to the last resource of eannibalism, as a
means of prolouf^in;^ existence. Scnne silver spoons and forks,
a round silver plate, enn-raved 'Sir John Franklin, K.C.li.,'
a star or order, with the motto, ' Nee aspera terrent,' which
Dr. Kae purchased of the Escpiimaux, corroborated the truth
(if their narrative.
Tims it was now known how part of the unfortunate
mariners had perished, but the fate of the expedition was
still enveloped in mystery. What had become of the shij>s
ami of the greater part of their ere w"s "P And was Franklin
uiie of the party seen by the IJsquimaux, or had an earlii.'r
Juatli shortened his sufferings '?
To solve at least this mour]iful secret — for every hope that
111' might still be alive had long since vanished — his noble
widow resolved to spend all her availal)Ie meau!- —since
• I'lvermnent would no longer prosecute the search— and
'.vitli the assistance of her friends, but mostlv at her own e\-
}'i'iise, fitted out a small screw steamer, the ' Fox:,' which the
iallaut M'Olintock, already distinguished in ])erilous Polar
Voyages, volunteered to conniiaiid. Anotln-r Arctic otHcer,
Lieuteiumt Hobson, likewise came forward to serve withcut
pay.
Vt fu'st it seemed as if all the elements had oonspirtHl
ii^ainst the success of this w<.»rk of pi<'ty, for in the summer
"f l>!o7 the floating ice off INIelvillu I>ay, on the c<»ast ol'
'•I'M nland, seized the ' Fox,' and after a dreary winter, various
'larrow escapes, and eight months of impi'isonment, can'i<'d
Vr 1n, ok nearly J, 200 geographical miles, even to G:3^.° N. hit.
iiillie Atlantic.
At length, on Apr'.l "J"), ls5H, tla.' 'Fox' got iVer. and
ii;iviii'^' availed Ik vself of the scanty stoj-os ami |H'M\isiiiiis
wliii-li the small Danish settlement ol' 1 1 (.Istenburg afforded.
'il''d iiitn IJarrow Strait. I''iii<liiig Franklin ('hrttt«>(d oly-
1, 1 J
420
rill-; I'oLAi: \\<)Ui,i».
stnict(.'(I with ii'c, she tlicii (iii'iicd 1)iirl<. and sii'iiinin^' iiii
Pi'in('(> Ito;4'(Mit Inlet, iirrivi'd 111 tlic f;isli'ni djiciiiii^- nt' Bi'Mur.,
Strait. Here tli" j)ass!i^'o to tlic west was a^'aiii tuiiini
blocked with ice, and after live iiietiiecf iial atteiu})ts to jiiiss.
tlie ' Fox ' at len^'th took nj) hd- wiiiter-(|narters in ]\,\i
Keiinedv, on tlie noi'theiMi side of the strait.
On his fii'st sjedo'c oxciirision in the folhtwinj^' spriii^j'.
IM'Clintock met, at Ca})e Victoria, on the south-west co;ist ><(
Bootliia. witli a party of I']s(|uinian\, wlii> informed liini tliiii
some yeai's Jtacdc a lai'L;'<' slii]) liad I)e<'n ernshecl h_v llie irr
out in the sea to tlie west of Kin;^' William's fsland, hut tlm;
all the |>eo[iIe landed safely.
MeetiuLi' with the same l']s(juimaux on A]»ril 2<>. he leni'iicil,
after nuich anxioiis in([uir_v. thai besides the ship whicli hail
been seen to sink in deep water, a second one had been thrcol
on shore Ii_v the iee, where they snpposeil il still reniaiiit.MJ.
but muidi brnken. They added that it was in the fall nf
the year tliat is. Au|4Ust or Se[ttend)ei' when the >lii]i>
were destroyed; that all ihe wliit<' j»enple went away I"
the (iriMt h'ish K'iver, takin;^' a boat <ir Ixiats with tliciii.
and that in the following;' winter tlieii- I)ones were IwiuhI
there.
Tliese first indications of the late of i'ranklin's exjx'diticii
were soon follmved by others. On ]\lay 7, iM'Clintork' luai'il
from an old FiS(]uiinaux woman on Kin^" AVilliaufs Ishniil.
that many of the white men <lro]iped by the way as tin;
went to the < «reat Kivei' ; that some were buried, and miiih'
were not. The\' <lid not themselves witness this, but ili>-
covered their hi (dies dui'iu^' the winter folic. win^'.
Visitinu' the ,-hoi'e alon^^' whiidi 0'" ret rent ini^' c-re\\> imi-!
ha\'e marched, he came, shortly after midniLiht of ^lay -■'■
when slowly walkiuu' alon^' a ^-ravel rid^'e near tlie heiii'l .
\vhi(di the winds kept partially bare of sn<iw, u[)on a liiiiii:i
skeleton, jiarlly exposed, with here and there a tew I'iml;iii''1i!"
of clothinu' appi'arin<4' throunh the snow.
' A most c;ii'('fnl evaminatiou (d'the spot,' says ]\j"( 'liiitci k.
'was (if (•()urse made, the snow reinoved, ami ever_\ sen:]! ' '
clolhine- o'.ithered u[). A. pocket-book, which be iii^' fro/en Iiai'''
CI uld U'-t 1)0 examined on the spot, afforded strong- ^'niuini^
for hope Iha.t some inloimatioji miu;ht be .subseipieiitly '■'-
FATK OF I'iiANKLIX AND HIS ( ( ».M I'AN !< ).\'
4-Jl
{(>ainin<_:' up
ii'^'uiii i'owiiil
I'ters in I'uvt
wiu^' syiriii.;'.
luctl lii'ii tli;:t
i>(l ]>y ill*' ill'
laud, lail tlia:
20. he It'anir'l.
Iiip wliicli liai!
ad been fuicr-l
dill reinaiiu'l.
in tlu' fall "(
\iv\\ i1h' >liil'^
wt'id away 1"
Is with tli''ii'-
iii"s rx]i('ditinn
lciin1<H-k li''iiv<l
Uiaurs Ishiml.
i,> way as tiicy
Iri.Ml, and soiiir
tins. l>iit 'ii^-
|im' ri'i'ws nuM
Iht of Mii.v -■'•
,.,,. til,. ImmMi.
upcii a linmaii
1',>w iVaL^-iui'Ut-
vs.M-rliii^'"''^'
Vvi-n scVi'.V'
lino'lVo/riili'i''
|,<r([iu'iiily ■•'
t, lined rfsju'ctiii;.^' llii.' ('V> uer, ami tln' niaridi (d'llic lusl citws.
Til'' vi(diiii was a voiniLi' maiu ^liulitlv l>nilt, aial jn'rliaii.s
;iliii\(' ill" (•(iiiiimiii lud'_;lif : llf divss aiijicarrd ti> ln' that
uf a st('\vav<l. Till' jxkh' man mtius to liavc s(di'c1i'd tin'
I'lii'i' ridii'e loj>, as altVll•dill^• tlu' least tii'esoiiie walkiiiL;', a!nl.
Ill have i'allen ii|ii»n liis lace in the pusitiiHL in wliiidi we
luum
1 hini. It was a niehnndioly 1 nit h that the (dd wmiian
when slie said. "Iliev tell d(.\\ii and died as thev
ai<e
';\all<eu aioUL:'.
iiaiii s
.^^'anw]lile IjienTenanI ll<il>S(tn, wlm was exjildriiiu' with
auetliei' sledu;'!.' [>arty tin- ii(*vth-w'esterii Kiast <>{' Kiii^' W'il-
Land. had made the still more imiiortant discovery
lit a record, L;iviiu;' a laconic iiecoiint oi' the i'Vaidsdiii expedi-
lidii ii]> to the time when the shi]is were \<>>[ and ahandoiied.
Ir was found on May <> in a larj^^'o cairn at I'oiid \'ictory. It
>ta1i'd hrielly, that in T'^l'ithe ■ I'irehns " ;ind " Terror " iiad
'M'<'iide<l Wellington ('haniad fo lat. 77 .ani
1 I'ef nriied hv the
t'l-Sl Sl(
le of {/orinvallis Island to Heerdiev Island, wli'^re tlu
y
^|||■ll1 tlie first winter. In Isli; tlu'y proceeded to thesouth-
\v.>t. throuu'li Pe<d Sonnd and l-'ranhdin Sdimd. and eveidu-
aliv n
a(died within twelve miles of the nnrlh extremil\ of
K'iii'j William's Land, when their |ifo<.-]'<
Wi
arrested l)y
ill' ice
Sir J(din FrnnhTin diod on .liiiie II. \>^['
liavmn*
I'Hll!]!
leted -two months liel'ore hisdeath ti
an active, eventfid, and honoui'alde li
le s!xt \-lirst Near
i .).)
le. < Ml A'
irii -^-^
M-. the >]
lips were deserted, lia\i!iu' heen l)eset si
me
^'■\>{. \'2, 18I('>. Tdie oHicers and crew, consiviiiii^- of Id-"*
■«iiuls. umh'r tlie command of Captain ( 'I'o/ier. landed witli
till' intention of starting' foi' l>a(d<"s I'ish Jii\er. which, as
Wi- have seen. the\ were liever destincil to rciich.
<^>iiant it ies of (dot hiuLf, and ai't iides of all hiiaN. were found
iil;' ahdut the cairn, as if
Ivi
ne>e
men. a wai'e i hat t hc\ wei'^
ail tlK'ii aiiaiK
ivtvi at iiio> for their lives
wliiili thev considered siipei'tha piis.
Tims all (h»nhts alioiil Sii' .hilin l''ranKlin"s I!
<'\ervlhnc
lie were at.
;tli i'emo\'e(l. lie at least had died (.n hoard hi> ship, and
"'I'll snared the niiserahle •
nd ( if III- '•! 'iiirai
thev f
ii\ one in the drear\' wildernes-
he two wreidcs have disappeared, without leaving- a trai
1. A si '.^'le document, sunie coins and jiicces of idate-
iiiiii
4-22
TIIK ruLAU AVORLD.
this is all that romains <»!' the ;4'allaiit sliips which so 1io|m'
fully sailed forth, inuhT one of the noblest seaineu that r\, i
served in the navy of Great Britain.
It is a curious circunistauce, that Franklin's sliips perisliod
within sij^'htof the headlands named Cape Franklin an«l (*;ipr
Jane Franklin, by their discoverer, Sir Janies Ross, ei^lilecu
years before.
I hi- liicat Novth'juj DiV'.-i.
'1 Lc Gieat liiuiiLiOidt Giaciur.
('HAPTEi; XXX n I.
ICAXK AM) IlAYi:s.
Kaiir >;;iils 11]) Siiiitli's Soiinil ill tin- ■Advance' (INooj — Wiiiiors ir. liciissi'laor
l!av — Slcdgo .lotii'iHy aloiitr thf C'oa^t of Ciri'mland -- TIii' 'I'iirfi' Hrntlicr
I'unvts— 'I'diiiy-iHi's .'Munmiiiat — Tiio Orrat Iliiiiiljuldt (ila.-irr — I)r. Ifaycs
' i">.sf,s Ktiiiicdy CliiinncI — ]\[(» ton's Discovery of Washinfrtoii Land ^tonnt
I'ariy— Kaiio rosolvos upon a Second AVintcrinjj; in I?i iisxclacr I!ay I>c[iartnrc
and Return of Part of the Cnw — Sufferinp'; of tlic Winfrr -Tln' Shi], abandoned
- ii'iat Jniirni'V to I']ici'iia i ik l\anc's Dcith in the Ilavannah (lS")7l- I'r.
Ihivrs' Voyaiic in 18(i(i — lie winters at Port Fuulke- Crosses Kennedy Channel
Heache.s Capo Union, tlie most Nortliern known Land ujion the (iiohu —
K'eldewiy- 'Phms for future Voy;;ne.s lo tile N'ortli pole.
IN \«nui of driuiiatic iiitt-n'si, I'cw of tlif AiTtie t'\po»liliuiis
'•an rival the second and last voya<4V <>f Dr. Ivano, wliii li,
f":i\ni(l int»'n'uptin;4"tlif narriitivc of tlie discovery of Fraiil.-
HnV tato In Dr. Rn<' and Sir James M'Clintoek, T liavo rc-
triiiiM'd from nieutiuninu" in i-lir<tnolo|j;'ica1 ordiT.
^^' ik in body, I>ii1 u-rcaf in i.;ind, this renuirkabN' man.
"li" liiid a<H-om[tani('d tlu' lirst <ivinn(l] <'Xp"diti(tn in Ihf
iijiiiiit \ iif snrti'fun, N.iiI'd lV"ni Il-'-^ti in. in I s.'):{,iis (•niiniDi iidcf
4 J t
•|ii: i'(ii,Ai; \V(»i;i,ii.
of t]|(' ' .\(l\;lticc/ witll 11 CI'CW of 17 oflk'crs !111<1 llli'll. <() W liidi
i\\<> ( IrcciihiiKlcrs were .siil^.scqiU'iitly added. His |>l;iii \v;i> i(,
[tiiss lip IjiitHirs Biiv, tn its most northern iittainalile iioim.
and tlii'Hco pressing- on towards the Pole, as far as Ixials di'
sledufes could reach, to examine the coast-lines for vestiges of
Franklin.
BiittUnj^- witll storms and icebi'r^'s, he passed, on Auu'nsi 7.
185;). the roclcy poi'tals of Smith's Sound, (_"ape Isahclhi. ;i!!,|
C.^ape Alexander, which had been discovered the year lict',ir,.
hy Inu'lelield ; h'f't ( "a[)e }[atlierton — the exti'enn' [»oiiit ;it-
tained hy tliat navij^'ator — -behind, and after nniny n;in'(i\v
esca[»es from shipwreck, secured the 'Advance' in Jiensschirr
Hay, from which she was destined never to emei';^'c. Ili-
diary leaves us a, vivid account of the lirst winter he spent i;i
tliis haven, in lat. 78° ;>H', abnost as far to the north as tli-
most northern extremity of Spitzber«^'en, and in a far inoiv
ri^'oi'ons climate.
' Sri,L 10, + 1 r F.—Th(^ birds liave left. The sea-swaliuu.,
whicdi aboumleil ulien we tirsi reacheil here, and even tli''
younn' bnri;dnias(crs that lingered after them. ha\(' all talci'ii
their departniv for th<' south. The lon^j,- '* ni^'ht in wliirh n,,
man can work " is cdose at hand; in another month we shall
lose the sv.\). Astronomically, he should disappear on Oct. iM.
if our hori/on v.'erc free ; but it is obstructed by a moinitaiii
ridp'; and, making' all allowance for refraction, \ve cannut
count on seeine- him after the lOth.
■■ Sept. 11. — The loiii;' staring- <lay, which has cIuul;' to ns fnr
more than two months, to the exclusion of the star-^. has 1"-
e'un to internut its l>rie-htness. Even Aldebaran, the ivd cw
of the l)ull, tiare(l out into familiar recollection as eai'ly ;;-
lo o'(do(dc : and the hea\ ens. th(»ue'h still somewhat redileiii'l
by the Liaudy tints of midnie'ht, p^ave us Capelh. and Arct inl-
and even that lesser lig'ht of home mennu-ies, the Polar stai.
Stretching- my neck t(» look uncomfortably at the indi(ali"ii
of our extreme nortliernness. it was hard to I'eali.-e tluif
he was not <lirectly overhead: and it made me sigh. a.s I
measured f'e hw degrees of distam;e that separated our
zenith from 1 he Pule over which he hung.
'•Itct. 28. The moon has reatdieil her greatest novtli'i
declination of i'lout '2-< •!•'>'. She is a e-lorious object : swcfp-
'Illi: I'di.Ai; \|(;||T
-»■}.'
icii. 1<i wliuli
s phiii \v;i> 1(1
liuablo j>niiit.
L' as 1t()a1> i'V
, on Au<4•^^l 7.
Isa1)''lla. aii'l
e yoar liff.iiv
Miu' [xi'nit iit-
inaiiy uarrnv
ill llOllSS.'l;!"-!
,>v l\r si^Mit i:i
e iioi'lli ii>^ ^^'
in a. lav wr
esea-sNvall"\\~.
have all talcm
lit in ^vlli<•ll im
inoutli Avc sli;i!l
tear <»ii
Oct.
\)X a lunnutiuii
ion. wo cani)"!
•luu'^' !•' !!■
OVt
avlv
au.
lion as I
■wliat vc.l.i''nr'
i. inulArctnvr.-
tlu' Polar -^ta'
inr si;
st'ttara
rh. a. 1
iiiu' ardUinl tin' liravciis. at i lir lowest [lait « •(' iicr (•iii'\ c, >liti
i-; still 1 !• alinvo the linri/dii, Kor ciLi'lit days slir lias lifcii
iii;ikiii'_;' JH'i- ciriMiit witii nearly uiivaryiiiLi" l>ri^lit iicss. It is
(iin- (>{' those s[(arklin'_;' iii^lits that briii;^,' hack the iiieiiKirv nl'
slri'^li-hells and soHLi's. and '_;lad cnniuiunin^is of hearts in
l;i,ids t hat are f'ai' awa v.
i'"'. I
Tl
le UarloM'ss s coininti' on witli insidions sleaili-
lie
and its adsan
(•(
s can only he iiereei\ed hy (•onl|lal■illL;•
^lM■ <
lay with its fellow o!" >oni'' time hark. We still ivad
tlie thermometer at nnonday witliont a liuht, and the hhndc
masses of tln' hills are ]ilain for ahout live limirs. with tlieii-
uiai-iiiL.': jiatehes of snow ; hnt all tlie rest is darkness. The
^tai's of the sixth niaLi'nitnde sliiiie out at iioondav. I''.\ce[,t
tijMin the island of Si)itzberL;'en, whi(di has the advanta^t'es
!>! a
n insular (dimate. iind tempered hy ocean currents, i
i(»
Christians have wintered in so luLi'h a latitude as this."'- 'l'he_\
are I^ussiun sailors wliu maih' the eiiconntcr there -men
iiiurecl to liardsliins and <-i.|d. < >nr dai'kiH ss has niiietv tiavs
tn run before ^Ye sliall ^^t liack aiiain even to the contested
twilie'lit of to-day. Altou'ctlier our \Vinter ^vill hav<' been
sunless for one hundred and forty days.
• Xnf. !). — Wishine" to e;,.( the allitU(h' nf the clitfs on the
Miuth-west cane of our bav before tlie darkness set in
Ik a
oiio'ldv. I started in tinu.' to reacdi them with my X
eW'
t'l'Uiidlanders at noonday, the tliermiiuietcr indicating' '2-
I'clew zero. Fireside astron(uners can liardlv realise th
111
ili<-ulties in the way of oliservations at sucdi low tcnipci'a-
tinvs. The breatb, and eveu tlie Avarmth of the face and
linily, eloud tlie sextaut-arc and ^lasses w ith a hue hoar iVdst.
It is. iiKjreover. an unusual feat to measure a base line in tl
le
•;iiii\v
at •')-')° below free/.iiiL;".
\(ir, 21. — We have S(d!e!iics iniiumeraiue t<i i-hca( (juj
uniiHitoiious solitude of our winter a fan<'v liall: a i
lews-
ibe indicali"'' | lui])!'!'. "The Ice JUiuk :"" a fox (diase Tdiiiid th • dt
Ito real!-' tluit
nUl' lliHlila V
Id;
/'"•. l-").--AVe lia\o lost the last veslie'e' of
ili'jht. A\'e eannot see |>rint. ami hardly paper: the tine'ers
eaiiiiet lie counted a foot from the e\es. Neomlav and mid-
Uv
itest north'!''
,,bicct : s\vc»'V-
* lii'r.'Siliifv Hiivt'our is s'tuatiHl 1° UV Ii';z1k'1' than Sir I-]. Ilc!i-lni'< \vi\iti.".''
11'. '.'s ill N.)i'tliuiul:i.rhii!>l Smiiii'I. ~I','> -JL'',
SSSSS19Bi"
426
rilK IN»I,AU UmKI.D.
ni^'lit arc alike ; and i'Xc<'|>l a vaiiur ^-liimiicr in IIh' >k\ ilmi
seoins to ilcliiK' tlu' hill outlines to <Ih.' soutli, we liavr untliin^
to It'll us: that this Arctic world of ours has a sun. In ihr
tlnrkni'ss, and consequent inaction, it is almost in vain lliat
\vc seek to crcat<' t<^pics ol:' tlioun'ht, and, I»_y a I'oj-ecd cxciti'-
mcnt, to ward olf the encroachments of disease.
SAn/. 21. — First traces t)t' returning li;;'ht, th<' soulheni
horizon havinnfor a short time a distinct orange tinge.
^ Feb. 21. — We have had the sun for some days, silverin;^
the ice between the headlands of the bay ; and to-day, towards
noon, 1 started out to be the first of my party to wehonir
him back, ft was the longest walk and touLi-hest clind) that
1 have had since onr imprisonment ; and scurvy and geneial
debility have made me " short o' wind." But f managed tn
attain my object. I saw him once more, and upon a [nn-
jecting crag nestled in the sunshine. It was like bathing' in
perfumed water.'
Thus this terrible winter night drew to its end. and iIp
time came for undertaking the sledge journeys, on whii !i
the success of the ex]>edition mainly depended. Untnitii-
nately, of the nine magnificent Newfoundlanders, and 'li-
thirty-Hvi' Esquimaux dogs originally possessed oy Kane
only six had survive<l an epi/ootie malady whi(di raged niiieiiL:
them during the winter; their number was, however, in-
creased by some new purchases from the Rsquimnux wh'
visited the ship at the beginning of April.
Thus scantily provided with the means cd' transport, Kain'.
though in a very weak condition, set out on April 2."). \^'>\.
to force his way to the north, lie found the Greenland coast
beyond Rensselaer Bay extremely picturesque, the cliffs visin-
boldly from the shore line to a height of sometimes iiieiv
than a thousand feet, and exhibiting every freak and ( a]>ri(v
of architectural ruin. In one spot the sloping rubbish at tin
foot of the coast-wall led up, like an artificial causcAvay, t^
a gorge that was streaming at noon-day with tiie sontlnin
sun, while everywhere else the rock stood out in the blackest
shadow. Just at the edge of this bright opening, rose tlie
dreamy semblance of a castle, liaidced with tvi[de towers.
completely isolated and defined. These were called the ' Tliier
lirotlier Turrets."
riii: iiiMi;<)i,i»T (ii,.\cii:i!.
427
\^> sky iliai
vf iii'tliiiii:
n. In ill''
I v.iiu lliat
l(l SitUtlu'l'll
vs, silvfviiiL;'
iiiy, lowat'.K
to NVclrollli'
i cliiult iliai
llliUl!l;^'<'<l tn
upon a I'lM-
ce bathing- i)i
end, an<l tlf
ys, on wlii'-li
.(1. Uu ft 'Vt>i-
cvs. ami ill'
^(.,\ \)\ Kail''.
rim't'il ana '11'^
howcvi'V. ir.-
juiniaux wli"
' i-'arlhcr on, to the north of hititndi' 7!> , a sin<_ilt' i-litVot
^'vccnstonc n'ars itsclj' tVoni a cniniltli'd Imsc of sandstone,
likt' 1 he Itoldly cluscllcd vinnpart of an ancicnf city. At its
Hurt In'i'ii t'Xti't'iiiity, at llic lirink of u di'.-p r;i\iiic which has
wiiiii its Avav anioii<j;' the rnins, Ihoi'c stands a sdlitary I'oliiinii
nv iiiiiiarot tower, as sharply liinsht'd as if it liad 1)im'ii cast
Jul' the Placo Vondonio. \vt tlio lon^-th of the shaft alone is
Hn ft,, iiiid it rises on a pedestal, itself "Jsii t't. liiLih. ' 1 re-
int'inher well the emotions of my parly, as it first hroke upon
n]ir view. CVdd and siek as I was, [ hrono-ht hack a sketeh
nf it, which nuiv have interest for the reader, thoimh it
>(ai'<'ely sn^'u'ests the jjnposino" dipiity of this ma^^'nifHM'nt
liimlnuirk. Those who are happily familiar with the writ in;4s
of Tennyson, and have eommnned with his spirit in the soli-
tudes of a wilderness, will ai)itrehend the impnlsi* that in-
sevihed the scene with his name.'
Hut no rock formation, however striking' or impressive,
I'lHialled in f^randenr the ma|»"nifieent ehieier to which ICane
lias i^'iveii the name of Humb<ddt. Tts solid t;lassy wall, di-
iiiiiiishino- to a well-pointed wedj^e in the perspective, rises
:'.iii> ft. above the water level, with an nidcnown, nnfathoni-
alilc depth below it and its curved face, (!<• mik.'s in lenL;th —
iVuin Cape A<^assiz to Capo F<»rbes — vanishes irdo nnknown
simce at not more than a sin;^le day's railroa<l travel from
the Pole.
Ill spite of the snow which had so aci-umulated in diifts
ilial the travellers were forced to unload their sledLfes ami
'■avrv forward th(^ cary-o on their backs, beat in jj;- a [>atli fi>r
till' iloo-s to follow in, Kane came within si^'ht of the Creat
tllarier on May 1- ; l)ut this ])ro^Tess was dearly earned, as if
'■'•St liim the last remnant of his strenij;-tli.
' 1 was seized with a sudden pain,' says the intrepid ex-
I'l'iivv, ' and fainted. My limbs became ri^-id, and certain
"Itsrure tetanoid sympt(»ms of our Avinter enemy, the scurvy,
'lisciused themselves. I was strapped upon the slediii,'e, and
till' march continued as usual, but my })owers diminished so
nipidly that I could not resist the <»tlierwise comfortable
temperature of 5^ below zero. My left foot becomine- frozen
caused a vexatious delay, and the same nii^'ht it became
''^i'l'iit that the imniovaliility of my limbs was due to (b'op-
4-2H
Tin; I'oi.Au \\(»i:i,i).
siriil cll'iisiiiii. < >ii tin- -M li. l)fc()iiiiii'4 <Ii'lii'l<iiis iiiitl I'iiiii'inj
CVCI'V lillM'illilt I \V;lS lilki'll IVolll lln' trill i O 1 1 II ' sIt ■( 1 l;( '. |
siicciiiiil)('(l flit ii'cl V. My ('<)iiirii(lt's would Uiiidlv ]m'1'sii;ii|c
Iiic tliiit, cvt'll li;iil I cdlit illlM'il sollliil, we coiiM net lliivc \)V\>-
(■('I'di'd on oiir )(iiini('y
'11
H' SHOWS
Wi'I'l.' \lTV lli';i\\ illlil
iiHTriisiii^' ;is we went; some ol' the drills pcrrfcl l_v iiii-
d 1
11.
|>llSSillMl', illlU UK' li'Vl'l lllX'S (>
MloW,
•I'tcii luiir I'ct't drrp ill yii'ldiij
'Tlir sfurvv li:i<l iiirciidy hrokcii out iniiono' tlic uicn. with
Syillploiiis like liiy own, :illd Moi'toli. ollf sl r(»li;j,'('st lli;ili. \\;i>
l)oy'inniii<4' to i^ivc Wiiy. It is Ilic rcvci'sf (d' conitort to m.'
that tlicv sliai'cd iiiv \vc:il<iifs."
\v
All thai I should roiin'iiiliiT
:ith pifisiii'aldi' I'cidiuL;" is that 1o my hravi' couiiiaiiiiiii-.
thciuschcs scarcely ahlc to travel, 1 owe my |ireservatioii,
' They carried iiie hacdc l»y ioived jiiarclies. I Avas takm
into the \)v\<^ (tii the 1 Ith, where for a week I lay liuctuiitiiiu'
between life and deatli. J)r. Hayes l•e^•ards my attack
one of scurvy complicated by typhoid fever.'
Fortunately suuuiier was now last a[>i)roa(diiii;4' wi
a>
th !ii>
(du'ci'iiiu' sunbeams and his u'cuial warmth.
Th
U'Vr
be<4'an lo appear (»ii Ihi.' coast in larj^'e nnnib(.'rs. and i
was now no want (»t' IVesh meat, the cliiel' pauacc.-a a'iain.-t
the scurvy. The siiow-lnuitinj^'s returne<l to the ice-crustrij
rocks; and tlie n'ulls and eider ducks came winiiinjj' thei
r Wiiv
t(» tl
leir nor
ther
u l)ree(
liii;^'-p1i
ices-
A'^eu'etation likewise sjjraiii^' into lih' with mai'\i'll"ii^
rapidity, and the «i'reeu slopinjj;- banks not <»iily rerrcshcJ
the eye, but yielded juicy, anti-scorbutic herbs.
Kane's health slowly but steadily iui}»roved. lie \v:is.
however, obliyvd to i^'ive up all I'urthev sled'_i'e excursions \'ov
the season, ami to leave the ext^i-iitioii of his plans \i< hi-
n!(»re able-bodied companions.
Thus Dr. Hayes, crossing- iho sound in a north-easlt'ily
direction, reached the opposite coast of Grinnell Laud.
Wliirll
he surveyed as far as Cape
Cane Frazer in lat. 70° 15'
Tl
lis journey was i
euih^rod unconnnonly slow and tedious
by the excessivcdy brcdcen and ruo-L^'ed character of tlif ic.
JJeou cavities tilled with snow intervened between lines <.■!
1
iummo{
ks f
requc
ntlv
excel
'dinu'
tw(Mitv or thirty feiT m
lieitdit. Over these the sle.b>'e hud lo be lifte.l by iii:in
Mid.NT I'AKKI
4'IU
IP lllfll, Wlill
'si man. \mi-
)lllt'<»rt tn 111.'
Id vciiu'iiiImt
ciiiipiinii'ii-.
■M'VV.ilii'ii.
1 was t;il<iii
y tluctnaliuu'
^ti'''iiu'l li. iiiiil it rt'ipiiiT'l tlir iiiot |iaiiitnl fllui't> of llic
\vli"l<' pai'ty to lil> 'iMtc it IVdiii tin- sikiw lirt w.'cn tliiMii. I)r.
Iliycs rt'tnnH'(l on .hnn" I. ami a \'r\\ ijays latiT Mniinti Id't
t!i ■ liri^' tn siii'Vc\ the < 1 rci'iilaihl (mimsI IicnuikI tlii' (Ircat
liliiciiT. Till' •linicultics s\( ri' '■rcat. \\>\\ 1m. sides tin' iisiuil
n;i|M.i
liinciit
S ol llUIIIIII'ic
til
.1 tl
I' iiiti'iii'>s (ti nil' si'asnii iiaii
Uir
.iVt
;i many jilaccs i^cndcr-'d tin' |ii' r\1 ri'incly nn.-^al'c. i>i' cscn
iitii'i'ly dcst r(i_\«'d llic ii'(.-|. 'd^c aloip^'llif ^]ll(l^'. Tims i'wr
last days ot" his onwai'd jdnrncy. lu' was (ililitird tntuil
r tilt' rocks and alon^i' tlic Itcaidi oj' ;i s^a wliii li, like the
i'liniliai' watt I's of llic sontli, <laslii'd in waves iil liis jeet.
Mi.rloii mid his eoin[ianion Hans, the i;s(|iiimaii\', I'eaehed
..,1 .1 inie :j(l, I S.') I. (';|j)|. ( 'oust it III ioii. a l>old headland, where
ih" surf rolled furiously a^'ainsi hi'^h overliane'in^' elilVs,
uhieli if was found ini|Missil)|e to pus,-:. ( 'liniliiiiLi- from roek
1.1 I'oelc, in hopes of (li>iii»linu' t he pronioiiforv, Morion stood
,;l lliis teriiiinat ion of his Journey, and from a hein-|it (,f .".iio
I'.'i'l loolvcd out upon a e'vent waste of waiei's, strelehin^' to
ilii' unknown nur
u;ii;e
th. l\
iinu'rons
l)ird.>
'ca-sw
allows, kitti-
hrt'nt-e'('ese — mixed their discordant notes with the
iiiivrl music of dashiuij;' waves ; and anionu;' t he iloweriuL;' plants
uri'wiiiL;" on the rocks, was t'onnd a criicifer ( llesjiei-is pyL-niicn),
til.' dried pods of which, still coiitainiiiLi' >c{'i\, hiui snrvivccl
till' wear and tear of winter. l*'rom Cape C'onstitntion the
'■'•;ist of Wiisliin;4'ton Lanil trended to the east, hut fur to the
ii'irlli-west, lieyond the open waters of the channel, a [lenk.
iii'iiiinatini;' a ranL;'e of mountains similar in their features to
if S[)itzber;^"cn. was seen towering;' to a iiein'ht of tVoni
tlHKe (
'I' to ;!.()(»(► feet. 'Jl
lis
peak. 1 he most remote nort
lel'll
liiiid at that time known ujiou our LAlobe. received the i:;im«'
"f Mount Pari-y.
^[caiiwhile the short summer was weai'ini^' on, and, as far
as the eve could ri.'aeh. the ice remained inlh'xihlv solid.
ft
evident that manv davs must ^■till eh
pse he!
ore
tile \essel coidd itossihlv he liljeratrd Inil then most likclv
>viiitcr v.-ould almost have retuiiied a dismal prtispect l( r
'!i''U who kin'w hv e\[ierienci the loii^- fearful ni^ht of the 7'.'^
liit!tu«le, and \vlio. hrokeii in h.'alth and with v
er\' insii
th-
'ii; supplies of provisions and fuel, wei'e hut ill armed Ibru
111 encounter. >S"o w(>nder that manv of Ka
m. ,~ com-
IMAGE EVALUATION
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73 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY 14S80
(716) 872-4503
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430
THE rOLAU WORLD.
panioiis ilum^'lit it better to jiljan<lon the vessel than to tari'v
any longer in those frozen s<tlitiule8.
But IhoUH^h it was horrible to look another winter in the
face, the ivsohition of Kane conld not be shaken. On
Au^ist 24, when the last hope of seeiiifj the vessel once more
afloat had vanished, he called the olKcers and crew to;,'<liicr,
aind explained to them frankly the considerations which
determined him to remain. To abandon the vessel earlier
would have been iniseemly, and to reach Upornavik so latf
in the season was next to imimssible. To such of them,
however, as were desirous of making the attempt, he freely
j^ave his j)ermi8sion so to do, assuring them of a brother's
welcome should they be driven baek. lie then directed the
roll to be called, and each man to answer for himself. In re-
sult ei^ht out of the seventeen survivors of the party resolvi'd
to stand by the brig. The others lef^ on the 2Sth, wilh
every appliance which the narrow circumstances of the bri<,f
could furnish to speed and guard them. When they dis-
appeared among the hummocks, the stern n'alities of tlu-ir
condition pressed themselves with double force on th(»s(-
whom they left behind.
The iv duced numbers of the party, the helplessness (tf
many, the waning efficiency of all, the impending wiiitf.'.
with its cold, dark nights, the penury of tlieir resources, the
dreary sense of increased isolation — all combined to de]>ress
them. But their energetic leader, leaving them no time for
these gloomy thoughts, set them actively to work to ma Ice
the best possible preparations they could for the kaig c<.»ltl
night to come.
He had carefully studied the Esrpiimaux, and determineil
that their form of habitations and their mode of diet, without
their unthrift and filth, were the safest and best that couM
be adopted. The deck was well padded with moss and turf.
so as to form a nearly cold-proof covering, and, down below,
a space some eighteen feet sfpiare — the apartment of all uses
— was enclosed and packed from floor to ceiling with inner
walls of the same non-conducting nuiterial. The floor itselt.
after having been carefuHv calked, was covered with Manilla
oaktim a couple of inches deejt, and a canvas carpet. 'Vlw
I'utrance was from the hold, by a low moss-lined tunnel, with
KAXK AND Tin: KSi^MMArX.
4ai
10 brij,'
iipt many iloors and curtains to clu.si- it up as in^^'iiuK y naiKl
•U'viso. Lai'i^e banks dt' snow were* also thrown up alonj^
till' brio's siJ«'8 to kfop ott" the coM wind.
All tln.'Ko labours in tho open air wondorlully improved tlu'
health of the cxii.*s, and their strenj^'th increased from day to
day. A friendly interctmrse was opened with the Esipiimaux
i.f the winter settlenu-nts of Etah and Avioatok, distant sonu'
tiiirty and seventy miles from the ship, who, for presents of
jieedles, pins, and knives, enpij^'od to fiirnitth walrus and
IVesh seal meat, and to show the white men where to find tlie
^Muie. Common huntii»<; parties were or^aidsed, visits (»f
courtesy and necessity paid, and even some personal attach-
ments established deserving' of the name. As lon^ as the
Americans remained prisoners of the ice, they were indebted
to their sava<^e friends for invaluable counsel in relation to
their huntin<^ expeditions, and in the joint hnnt tlu'y shared
alike.
The Esquimaux pave them supplies of nioiit at critical
periods, and they were able to do as much for them. In one
word, without the natives, Kane and his companions W(»idil
most likely have snccundx'd to the winter, and the Escjui-
maux on their part learned to look on the straiii^ers a.s
Itciiefactors, and mourned their departure bitterly.
On Decendx'r 12, the party which had abandoned the shi[>
icturned, havinj^ been unable to penetrate to the south, and
was received, as had been promised, with a brotherly wel-
roine. They had sutfered bitterly from the cold, want «>f
I'oimI, and the fatiij^ues of their march anioiiy tlu- hummocks.
' The thermometer,' says Kane, ' was at minus .")()°; they
Wore covered with rime and snow, and were faint injjf with
linii^rer. It was necessary to use caution in takin;^' them
brlow ; for, after an ex[»osure of such fearful intensity and
"luration as they had o<tiie throu^^h, tlu> warmth »»f the cabin
Would have prostrated them completely. They had jonnieved
thre«,' hundred and tifty miles ; and their last run from the bay
iiciiv Etah, some seventy miles in a rio:)it line, was thnaij^h
the hummocks at this a[»pallin;_;- temperature. One by one
tiicv all came in and were housed. Poor felltuv-il as they
threw open their Es(|uinunix garments by the stove, how
'ln'v relished the scanty luxuries which we had to (•tier
43'i
TIIK I'ol.AU W(>i{|,I>.
tliein. Tlio cott'cc, ami the ineut-l)isfuit soup, and the
inolassf'S, and the whcat-lin'iid, ovoii the salt p(>rk, wliirh (mr
Hciirvy forbade the rest of us <<» tonch -how they rclishrd it
all ! For more than two months thoy had livod on f'roz<ii
seal and walrns-incat.'
Thus Kane, by his (h'tcrniination not to al)andou the ship.
proved the saviour of all his coini'ades, for what would liiivr
become of them, had he be«.'n less firm in his resolution, or if
his <'oura;^'e had failed him (hirin}^- the trials of that dreadful
winter P
'February eloses,' says the heroie explorer, 'thank «!<i(l
for the lapse of its twenty-eiLrht days! Should the thirtv-
one of the cominy; Marcdi not dra;^' us farther (h)wnward. wi'
may hojie for a suecessfid close to this dreary drama. IW
April lo we sh(tuld have seals; and when tliey conje, if w.'
remain to welc<Mue them, wt' can call ourselves saved. Jiiit
SI fair review of our pr(»spects t<dls me that \ must look tlii-
lion in the face. The scurvy is steadily jj^ainin;; on us. 1 d.i
my best to sustain the luore desi)erate cases, but as fast as I
partially build uj* one, another is stricken d(»wn. Of tli<' six
workers of mir l)arty, as I counted theju a month h'j^'k twn
are unable to do out-door vrork, and the renjainim/ Imir
divide the duty of the ship am(»n;j: them. Ifans musteis
his remaining euer;j;ies to conduct the hunt. Petersen is hi-
disheartened, moping assistant. The other two, Bonsall ami
myself, have all the <hiily otHces (»f household and hos[iitaI.
We chop five large sacks of ice, cut six fathoms of eii^lit
inch hawser into junks of a loot each, serve out the mum!
when we liave it, hack at the molasses, and hew out with
crowbar and axe tlie pork and dried ajtples ; pass uj» the t'liil
.sh>2) and cleansings of our dormitory, and in a word, ceok.
.^ciilllouizi', and attend the si»d<. Added to this, for five !iit:lit>
running 1 have kept watidi from S i'.m. to 1- a.m., ciitchiiiu
su(di nai)8 as I could in the day without changing my clothes.
but carefully waking every hour t(» note theruiomoters."
With March came an incrcMSi; of sufferin'''s. Fverv iii:in
on board was tainted with scurvy, and there were seldom iikhv
than threi' who could assist in caring for the rest. Thi^
greater number were in their bunks, absolutely unable te»t!r.
Had ICane's health given way, the whole party, depri\i'il d
it.-i leading spirit, nuist inevitably have perishi'd.
AI'.ANDoNMKNT «)[' Till: ' AKVANCi:.
•i:\:)
ivty-
I. ^^•'■
liy
[f \\v
1 .In
,t ilS 1
\XV S'.N
II. 1\V"
f t"« lur
nstcv>
is l.i>
lill aii.l
|>s[iit;il.
' ini'at
\ witli
(•(KiK.
ni'j:l\t>
tchhi'j;
Irv mall
ill innv'
To abiimloii tho sliiji was now nn al)Si'luto iiO(U'SHiiv. for
a lliiitl winter in Rensselaer J5ay would have heeii ecrtain
(l.athtoall; but Itelore lUe boats etiiild be traiisjiorted to
tin- open water, many i>re[»arations had to be niade, and
iiinst (d'the party wi-rt? still too weak to move. Tin* interval
was einnloved bv Kane in an excursion with his I'aithtul
|!-i|iiiiiiaux to the (Jreat (Ilaeier.
At leuL-th oil Miiy 2«>, |S.")r», the entire shi]»*s eompany
liiilc farewell to the 'Advance.' and set out slowly on thi'ij-
liMiin-ward iotu'uev. It was in the soft, subdued liu'lit of a
Siimliiy eveidti^*, June 17, that after hauliu;^; thtir boats
^\iili iinudi hard labour thi'ou<«-h the hunnnocks, thcv stood
liisiijc the open sea-way. But fifty-six davs had still to iiass
'fnl-c
tl
U
y
con
Id
rea».
h tl
le nor
it of V
•ernavik.
Neitl
ur
Mi'iuis nor drift-ice rendered this lony^ boat-Joui'iu-y dan-
_'.i«'Us. but they ha<l to contend with famine, when they at
I'lii^tli reaidifd the open bay, and found themselves in the
tull liii" of the y-reat ii-e-drift to the Atlantii-, in bouts s(» un-
- iwuithy as to re(|uire constant balin;^' to keep them alloat.
rinir ,stri'ni,dh had decreased to an ahirnun;^' (Icil,^^^': they
Ir-atlii'd heavily: their feet were so swollen that tliry were
lilijcd to cut open their canvas boots ; they wei-e utterly
iiial'lc to sleeji. iind the rowing;' and liaiinn' bcrjime honrly
iimrt' tlitlicnit.
It \v;!s at this crisis (»f tlu-ir fortunes that they saw a
i.iV'j:i' seal iloatiuijf — as is the custom of thes(> iiiiimals on a
Miiall patch of ice, and seeminj^ly asleeji. ' Tieudilin^' with
;iii.\itty. says J\ano, 'we pie[)areil to crawl down upon him.
I''tirs.ii, with a larti'e Kn^lish ritle, was stationed in the
"W. and stockin;^"s were drawn over the oars as mutljers.
A^ w.' neared the animal, our excitement became so intense
'!i:it tlie nu'U could hardly keep strol<e. lie was not aslee]i,
1" li" reared his head when we were almost within rille.
:"t: ami to this day I can renien)ber the hard, carewoi'ii,
-iiM,>t despairin<; expression of the men's thin faces as they
> w liiiM move; their lives dejiended on his cajiture. T de-
irissfd my hand nervously, as a si^-nal for Petersen to liie.
■'I'iarv Jiunef niion his oar, and the boat, slowly but noise-
^^ly suri;in<:^ ahead, seenn'd to me within certain ran^e.
l""kinii-at PetersiMi. I saw that the poor fellow was paralysed
11
4:u
Tin: i'(H-.M{ woKi.i*.
by his uiixicls, trying' vainly to uldaiii a rest \\>v liis ^^iin
n^ainsi tlic mt-watiT of thf l»(»iit. TIm' seal rose on lijs
l'oi'«' iliitprrs, L^a/.t'tl at us for a. inonifiit with fri;;litrii,',l
curiosity, and coiltMl liinist-lf for a {)Iiin;^'t'. At that instant,
Hiinultaiioously with th«! crack of our rillc, he rdaxf.l his
lon<; Icuf^th on the ice, iind, ut the very brink of tlie wat. r.
liis Iiead fell helph'ss to one side. I would hav»} onlrn-ii
anotlier sliot, l)ut no discipline could have controjird ih,'
men. With a wild yell, each vociferating'- ucrordin<_'' In lii>
own impulse, they urLjed their boats ii[»on the ijix >. \
crowd of hands seized the seal, and bore him up 1o saf. i' icr.
Tlie men seenu-d half ci'azy. I had not realised how iinuli
we were redui*ed by al)solu e famine. 'J'liey ran over iln'
lloe, cryin;^ and lauLihin;^:, antl brandishin<.,' their knives. It
was n(tt live minutes before every man was snckiiii; his
bloody iin;^-ers, or monthinj^' l»»n;.^ strips of raw blubljcr. Ni.t
an ttunce o
ftl
i!s seal was
h)St.
Within it day or two another seal was shot, and fVoia that
time forward they had a full supply of food.
When Kane, after an absence of thirty months, retunii'il
on October II, l.S.")-'>, to Ni'w Yoi-k, he was enthusiast icully
received. Well deserved honours of all sorts awaited jiim
on both sides of the Atlantic ; but his health, ori^ninilly wiak.
was completely broken by the trials <»f his joui'uey. himIhii
Fi'bruarv 1<», 18.") 7, ho died at the Havannah, in the ihiit\-
itl
f h
In him tlie United States lost
,'1
dill'
seventh year oi liis a;,^'
<»f their noblest sons, a true hen
shine anioni^- the most famous navioators of all tiinos
of all nations.
In 18()(>, Dr. Hayes, who had accompanied Kaue nu h
o, wnose name will cvii
aii'i
iirl
twenty miles in latitude to the srmth of llensselacr IJarhi
TJianks to an abundant supply of fresh meat (for the iit'i::lij
b(mrhootl abounded with reindeer), and also no doiiKt
the inexhaustible fund of j^ood humour which pivvailol:
'''iivni'i-
'" .SO|/i(i
""iiyiiK
i'llllijjo- ;,
"'"'('tililO.s
journey, once more sailed from America for the purpose "tH ''<• tin
com[»letinf!;the survey of Kennedy's Chainiel, and, if [)ossiM
of pushiuf^f on to the Pole itself. After several iiiini
escapes from ice-fields and icebero;s, his sch(»ont'i'. tlii}|
' United States,' was at length compelled to take up lui
winter-quarters at Port Foulke, on the Greenhmd coast, ab'nil
I '.I
''''"ikijio-
■;'''" even
'■'I'-llo-J, ,,,
■■''"l"n-;itiv,
""( a/u-
'"''.'•iUidin
TlIK COAST UV (.i:i.N.\i:i,L l,.\M>.
4a.>
rli<'«l
tiint,
I hi>
am '4
A til.'
til \\\>
•>. A
tVv \''<'.
; tn>i«li
vrV ill''
k'*'>'
It
roui
lliiit
V('tnvni''l
iastu'i'^b'
ni.Hl to'
jally wf.iV-
V. ;\w\ ""
ii,. tlurty-
ilU'l
i\W
till' chip's «'(>iiij>anv, they passed llic wintci" willioul siin'riiii;^^
tVi'iii tho scurvy; but must ot" the tlojjfs ou whidi Dr. Hayes
rclit'd for liLs slcdij;!' cxjit'ditious in tin* «'nsuin;j;' s[»rinijf
wtTi' destroyed by the same epidemic wbich had been so
fatal to th<' teams <d' Dr. Kane. Fortunately some fresh
(l(i;.'s could be purchased andborrowfd of tin* t'rii'udly Ksipii-
iiiaiix, and thus, early in A|»ril, |S(;i, Dr. Hayes left tlu;
M li(M»ner to plun^^-e iut<» the icy wilderness. Ifaviuj^' i>re-
vimisly ascertained that an advanee ahaujf tht> (Jn'cnland
shore was utterly im[tossiltle, h«' resolvcfl to er(»ss tlu' sound,
iiiitl to try his fortunes ahm^' the coast of (irinnell Land,
ttf the difficulties which lu' had to encounter his (»wn words
will j^ive the best idea,.
• l>y windiii'jf to the ri^ht and left, and by oocasi<»nally
retracing'' our ste[)s when we liad seleeti'd an inij»rarti('al»le
I'lute. we managed to yfet over the first few miles without
iiiiK'h embarrassnu'ut, l>nt further on the tract was rou^h,
juist descrii)tion. 1 can c(»inpare it to notliin;^' but a pr<t-
iiiisciious accinnulation of rocks (doscly packed to^-etlu'r and
lUt'd up over a vast })lain in ^reat heaps and endless rid<^«'s,
!'',ivini; scarcely a foot of lev(d surface. The interstices
uiilii''
Jit' po!*sil'l''J
Lncv. tlii
like up l"i
least. •'l'"1
the wm
L Ao\M 'f
lictween these (.
.•los(d'
accuniu
lated
ice-masses ai'e
tilled
')'
til soiii(> extent, with drifted snow. The reader will readily
iiii!i;,'iiie the rest. He will see the sled^-es windiny- through
I'll' taii<;led Avilderiu'ssof l)r(>ken ice-tables, the iu«'ii and (lo<^s
i'iilliii<; and pushin<j; up their respective loads, lie will see
•in t
land)
eriim- over the very sunnnit of loftv rid;^'e
hi'uu'ili which there is no o[»enin;4', and a^'ain dt'scentliu};- on
i'.u' dtlu'r side, the sled;j;e often ]»iun;i"in»;" ov«'r a prei-ipice,
^'iiu'tinies capsi/an<jf and frequently breaking". Ayain he will
^'■tlii' i>arty baffled in their attempt to cross or find a jtass,
'I'likinLj a track with shovel and hands[tike ; oi-, aj^ain, un-
Mi' even with these ap[iliances to arconiplish their end,
'!i''v retreat to seek a better track: and thev mav be lucky
ii^li to find a sort of ^^ap <>r j^ateway, upon the winding
""I uin'vt'U surface of which they will make a mile or so with
i['arative ease. The snow-drifts are sometimes a hel])
I'iiii! sometimes a hindi*ance. Their surface is mnforndy hard
Hot always firm to th<' foot. The crust fre<piently ;^'i\es
and in a most tiresome and pr<tvokino^ nninner. It will
■liMl
i'llt
«IV.
t 1
4f\i>
TIIK I'dLAK \V(H{I,I».
I
3.
' I
m'1m[
lint (jiiitc bear tlu' wci^^lit, iiiid llic f'tiol sinks at the vtTv
inoiiu'iit when <lu' other is littt'<l. liul. worst" tliaii tliis. ih,.
oliasiiis hot ween tlio huiniiiocks arc tVciiiU'iitly hritl^nd ii\r|-
with Hiiow ill Hiich a iuaiiiM>r as to h>avi' a (.'oiisidoraldc sjiini-
at the bottom quite milill»Ml ; ami at the very iiionuMit whiii
all looks ]iroiiiisiii^^, down sinks one man to his nii(|)||>'.
another to the nock, another is buried <»ut ot'si;j;ht ; the slt-il^r,.
^ives way, and to extricate the whole from this uiili;ii.|.v
prerlicameut, is probably the labour of lnuirs. It would Im>
ilidicult to ima^'ine any kind of labour more disheaitenin^, m-
Avhich W(»uld sooner sa}» the ener^'ies of both men and aiii!ii;il>.
The sireni^tli j^ave way j^'radnally ; an<l when, as often Imji.
j»ened after a htn^' and hard day's work, we could look li.n k
from our eminence and almost fire a rille-ball int(» our l;i>t
snow-liut, it was truly discoura^in<^.'
No wonder that after thus toiling on for twenty-flvf (l;iv>
they had not yet rea(died half-way across the sound, iind
that thev were all broken down. But their bold h-adti- \v;i>
fully determined n(»t to abandon his enterprise while still tli''
faintest hope of success renuiined, and seudinj^'the nuiiii |nirt\
back to the scdiooner, he continued to pluni^e int«> the huiii-
mocks with three ]>icked companions — J«'nsen. ]M*l)nii;ilil.
Knorr — and foiu'teen doy's. After fourteen davs of uliimst
Hupei'humau exertion the; sound was at len<;"th crossfd. uml
now be<.>"au iuscarcely less harassin<;' journey alon<4' llie mii'.t.
On the fifth day Ji'usen, tlu» strone-est man of the |iiirtv.
comidetely brtdc<' down, and leavinj,' him to the clun>.''(' if
M'Doiiald, Dr. Hayes now pushed on wnth Kn<»rr alone, until.
on May 18, he reached the border of a deep bay, where I'urtlur
progress to the north was sto}iped by rotten ice and cnicks.
Eif^dit before him, on the opposite side of the frith, rose Mount
Parry, the lofty peak first seen by Morton in ISo !• fioni th--
sIku'os of Washin<;ton Land; and, farther on, a nohle litinl-
land, Cape Union — the most northern known land upniitli'l
globe — stood in faint outline against the dark sky of th-
open sea. Thus Dr. Hayes divides the honour of extiviu'
northern travel with Parry.
On July 12, the 'United States' was released freiu li<rj
icy trammels, and Dr. Hayes once more attempted to rtn
the opposite coast and continue his discoveries in (hiim I
V( IIIKVK.MK.NiS or l)|{. II.WKS.
417
ryVV
*
iivi r
l»lH't'
.Ml-.
i'>l'l'>
M !"■
\iu'. "''
iur.iU.
11 luij'-
k iu.k
;c (V,i\-
11(1. lUl'l
still th"
liii inivl}
he liuni-
)iin;il'l.
;ilm">l
•il. ilU'l
JiilVt}.
llliV'^'t' "*
lie. until-
V fuvllx'i'
iVttiu ill''
,!(> luii'l-
iijHm til-' I
,y of til"
• ^.xt.'.'Ul''
l"ri>m li'i
to v.';v-li
■i tlviuii'
iSC
liiiml : l)ul tlu' si'luxuHT wiis in foo ('rii»|il»'d a state to Inrco
In r wiiy tlirou;,'li tlio paok-ict' which hiy in h«'r course, ami
(•(•in|«'llo(l her foiniiiaiuh'r t<> rctiii'ii to Hoston.
Thus (Mi(h'(l this r< inarkahh? voya^-e ; hiit haviu<^ clone
<i> niiK'h, Dr. llayos is I'a^fer, an<l resdlved, to do still more.
Kiilly convinced hy his own e? [>erience that men nuiy subsist
ill Smith's Sound independent ot' support from home, he pro-
pisi's to establish a self-sustainin'4 colony at Port Foulke,
wliidi may be made the basis of an extended ex[»loration.
Williont any second party in the field to co-(»perati' with him,
;iii(l under the m(»st adver.se circiimstanees, he, by dint of
indomitable perseverance, pushed his discoveries a hundred
miles farther to the north and west than his predecessors ;
iunl it is surely not over sauj^uine to expect that a party
Irtl.T provi(h'd with tlu' means of travel may be able to
tnivt'rse the 1H(I miles at least which interv
ene
bet
ween
Mount Parrv and the Pide. The oi)en sea, whi<d\ both Morton
mill himself found beyond Kennedy Channel, L,'ives fair pnt-
iiiisc nf success to a stron<j vessel that mav reach it after
iiiiviii'jf forced the i<'e-blocked passa<,'e of Suiith's Sound; or
siionld this be impracticable, to a boat transported across
till' sound and then launched upon its waters.
Captain Sherard Osborne, who is likewise a warm partisan
"f tills route, has been endeavoiu'ino; to interest (Jovernment
ill its favour; but in the opinicm of other scientific author-
ities an easier pa-ssa^;*' seems open to the navii,''ator who
may attempt to reach the Pole by way of Spit/.bero;en.
To the east of this archi[)elao;t> the ^ulf-stream rolls its
volume of comparatively warm water far on to the* north-
"iist. and possibly swee])S round the Pole itself. Tt was to
tlu' north of Spit/ber<jfen that Parry reached the latitufle of
^2' 1.V : and in 1S:;7 the ' Truelove,' of Hull,* sailed throuoh
1 iicrt'ectly open son in 82° :{<>' N. 1.')° E., aiul had sht» cou-
tinuod her course miofht possibly have reached the Pole as
*-iisily as the hio-h latitude whiih she had alreadv attained.
The distino^uished ^eoo^rapher Dr. Au^'usfus Pctermann.
^vho warmly advocates the route between Spit/bcrovn and
''rcenland, has, by dint of perseverance, succeeded in ccdlect-
Ailii'iiii'iim." I)('i'. ;{, I s.'i;?.
4:H
TIIM roLAlJ \Vo|{|.l>.
iii^if imioii^' his I'oniitrynii'ii lln- iicccssjiry riindH for ;i vtMi.n-
iioitri!i«^ v<>yii;^<_» ill this (lii'cctiun. Tliaiiks to his «'xcrliuiis.
May 2 !•, IHJIS, Avilii('Hs«'il the «h']»iirlni'(' <tf' a smiill sliip ..(
80 tons, the Mi<>niiiiiiiii/ ('iipiaiii Kolih-wcy, f'r<»iii Ihf j.t.rf
of IJoi'i,'*'!!, for Shiiiiiion Ishiiul (7."»'' I !•' N. hit.), the hi'j:li( -.f
|>oiiit on the ciist c'Oiisl of (}ro(Milinnl iittiiincd by Hiihini' in
1H2''{. Hfiv thiMitti'nipt to <'X[>lor(' th(! uiikin»\v?i Arctic Sims
beyond was to b('|j;in ; but, meeting" with I'liorinous musses
of Urift-icc on hor ropcatrd endeavours to jieiu'tratc in
the north-oast, the * Gorniania ' has been oldio-rd to relnni.
after roiJcliin^ the hij^h hititnde of ST .'>', niid aecuvatilv
Kurveyin;^' a small i)art of the (Ireenland coast hitherto Iml
iniperfi'etly exi)lored. An oxj)edition on a more extensive
scab' is to renew the attempt in ls»»!>,
A third route to the Pole is no less strenuously recniii-
mended by M. Onstave Lambert, a French hydro«,naj»li» r.
who, havin<^ sailed Ihrouj^h IJelirino's Strait in a whaler, in
1H(;5, is persuaded that this is the ri^-ht Avay to reach tlic
probh'matieal open North Sea, which, once attained, promises
a free passaj^e to the navi<ifator. Liberal snbseriptioas Imw
been raised in Paris for the aceoniplishment of his i»laii. ami
an expedition, under his command, will nmst probably si t
<mt in 18(')t>.
Thus, after so many illustrious navij^'ators have vainly cn-
deavcmred to reach the lV»le, san^uii/e projectors arc still ;i>
ea^ifor as ever to attain the <;(>al ; nor is it probable tli:it
man will ever rest in his efforts, until every attainable renien
of the Arctic Ocean shall have been fully ex[)lored.
■•r
1
^■, '
'?^^.;k'?
';'.*>
'ihc Kficoiiii.
,f- iv."i ii'i iin 1.
CTIAi'TKR XXX FV.
NiaVI'ol Nhi.ANK.
1> ilonlMi' A>-poot— Forosts -JIiU>li(s liai'i'i :i- I'dImN l''iir-l'' Mfiii:: Aii'iii.il-
--Sovcrili. <it' Cliiniitc- Si. Jnliirs- Iiiscciwrv ut' Nr\\ t'dniicll.iinl Ky tli. SimiuII-
n.ivlans— Sir IIiun]>lu"i'_v (iillifi-r — Ilivalrv I'l' tlh' I]ii::li-li .'U'l l''roiH'li- Im-
j'rtancp of tlic l'i>luric> — Tlic lliiiik'- of Ncwfoniiillaml .Mixlc of Fisliinp -
Tlir'iatcrs. Ili .'I'lcrs, Sjiliti. r-, Sali.r^, aiiil I'acki-i''^ I'njis iiikI Sturins - Si al
I'Mtl'llillJi'.
pKNKRALJiY veiled willi misls, XcwroniMlliiiid iiit[iears at
n first sio-ht o-looin^Miuil repulsive. Al)riq>t clifl's, sliow-
intr lit'iv ami there traces of a scant v ve<;'etati»>ii, rise steep
iind bare from tlio sea, and lor miles and niilivs the eye sees
'I'lthiiio- but brown hills or higher mountains, des(date an<l
«il(l us they appeared in the eleventh century to the bold
Xorwr^'ian navigators -wlio lirst landetl on its desert shores.
The waves of the ocean have everywhere cf)rrode(l the rocky
^•oast into fantastic pinnacles, or excavated deej) ^^Tottoes in
its flanks. In one of these cavities the action f»f the snrut»
has inYMluced a rennirkable phenoniemni, known under the
'!iiin(> nt' ' The Spont.' In stormy weather the waves penetrate
4tO
Tin: r<»i.\i{ woki.h.
into tlic liollow iiixl furer tln'ir way witli n tlrfiidt'iil iir-i^,.
tVoiM nil !i|i('rtMn> in tin* rnrk, mm u ^ri^iintic r)iiiMt;iiii visililr
ill !i tlistiinct' of sfViTiil miles.*
Till' iiiti'vinrnf the cnniitrv corn'siHinMs with lln- lorliitMin^'
ii|tp('iirau<'t' of the cdiists. iiiid ulVrrs nothing' 1)U< a siiccrssidn
dj' turt'sts, inarHlics, ami barrens. 'I'lir Inrcsts, if tlicy nmv
lliiis l»t' callt'tl, <^n'm'rully '^rt>\\ on llic dfclivilii's of tin- liilU
or on tin' si«l»'S of the valleys, where the sn|»erlhjons wntits
lin<l a natural drain. The trees consist tor the most part .f
lir, sjirnee, hireh, pirn', and jiniiper or lareh ; and in ecit.iiu
districts the wych-ha/.el, the nionntain-ash, the ejdir. t!ir
aspen, and s(»ni(i <ithers ai'e t'ountl. 'I'he (diaraefrr of tli,.
tindter varies <;rcatly according t<» the natnre of the >iiliN.i|
and tile situation. In some parts, more esjiecially where tlic
woods have l)een undistiirhed hv the a.\e, trees of fair inj^lit
nnd trirth mav he fonnd ; hnt most of the w 1 is of stiinti.l
p;rowth, eonsistinpf ehielly of lir trees ahoiit twenty oi- thirty
feet hi^di, and not moro than three or four inelies in diaiiKtrr.
I'hese commonly ^'I'ow so cloHoly toeetli,.v, i]\,\\ tlieir t\vi^<
and hranclies interlace from toj* to hottom, while iiiiinii;.'
them may he seen innumerahle old and r(»tten stumps iiiiil
hranclies, or n<'wly-lallen trees, which, with the younu' slimtts
and hrnshwood, forma tangled and often impenetrahle tliiikct.
The trees are often covered with lichens, and tufts of wlijt.'
«lrv moss are eiitanuled ahout the hrancl
les.
Otl
icr <'rf'fii
nn<l softer moss(>s spread over the fjround, roncealinj,' alik"
the twisted roots of tlie standini^; ti'ecs and the poinicl
stnmjts of those whi(di have fallen, the sharj* ed|^fcs or sli]-
pery stirface of the numerouR rocks and houMers, anil tli-'
holes aud pitfalls hetween tlu'm. l']v«Ty st»»p through tin-'
woods is C(»nse(piently a matter <»f tjrcat toil ami aiixi'ty,
In tho heat of summer, Avhilo the w<>ods arc so thi<k iiM"
shut out every hreath «if air, they aro at the same tiiii'
too low and too thinly loavod at to]) to exclude the rays if
tho siui, the atniosplu're hein;,' furtlun* rendered close aii'i
stifliu}^ hy the smell of the turpeutine which exudes from tli-'
trees.
* For an afi'iiiiiil oftlic siiiiiliir i>!icni>mcMii of tlio ' I^)iitl;u
(in tl
M.
poa^t, and nf the ' Sonfllonr," .Munritius, *oc • Tlif S.'a ami its liiving Wi'i'd"
3ril I'll. 1'. .■>•_'.
MAHSIIKS ,\M» I'.AKUK.NS,
411
Hll»'|MSt'<l ill tlli'Hf yloniilV Wotiils. liiV'^c o|M'M friicfs. Ciillfd
iiiiiisIh's, iirc IoiiikI ciivcriiiM; tin- viillfvn iiii«t It.wtT lands, iiidI
tVi'i'it'iitlv also at a ci'iisidfralilc lu'i;j:lit alniv** llic sra.on tlu>
niulnlatiiijx l»a<"ks of tin- iim>uii tains, 'riifsc tnirtn arc r(tv<'r«'<l
t.i a <li'i>th soiiictinit's d' srviTal It'i-t with a ;xn't'ii. soft, ami
spi'iiL^y muss, ItoiMid to;;;i.tlifi* l»v Ht ra},'},'Iin;;; LTra^s an«l varioiiH
iiiarsli itlaiits. 'I'lu' siivlatf alMtinuls in liillo.Ks atnl holes,
tlic tiijiH of th«* hiMorlvH haviiiLT oftrn «lrvrris|» iiiosh, li!:*- that
Mil the tn'cs. A houlth'T or small cra^' of i-ock orcasionallv
pro
In 1(1
t'S.
CO
vci't'd with n <l or white liclu'iis, and Im-i-c and
fJii'iH' is a hank on which the moss has Im-co'iic di'v and
\r||nw. The contrast of these colours with the dark velvety
uM'Cii of the wet moss freiinently ^ivcs a jM-ciiliarly rich ap-
|"'arance to the marshes, s(» that when seen from a little dis-
t.iiice they tnijiht easily he mistaken for Inxnriant meadow
'grounds, hilt a closer inspection soon drst roys the illusion,
mid shows, instea<l of nutritions ^rass and aromatic tlowei-s,
iinthiiiu hut a carjM't of iisidess crypto^amic jilants. Hxcepf
ill loiii,' continued drou-j^hts or hard frosts, these marshes are
so wet as to he niiahle to hear the weight of a person walk-
iii'j; over them. \ mandi of three miles. sinki?iy at everv
step into tli(> nn ss, sometimes knee-dtep, and always as
t'iir as the ankle, is, it may well he supp<>se(l, toilsome and
f;ili'j:uino-, especially when,«as must always he tlie case in
attempt iui:' to penetrate the country, n heavy load is carried
11)1 the shouhh'rs. This thick ooatin*^ of moss is precisely
like a i^Teat spou<4"e spread over the country, and hecomes at
till' melting' of the snow in the spring thoroujilily saturat(>d
with Avater, wlii(di it lon^^ retains, ami wliich every shower of
rain continually renews.
The ' harrens ' (^f Newfoundland are those districts which
ncoiuiv the summits of the hills and ridijfes, and other elevated
and exposed tracts. They iive coA'cretl witli a thin and
scnilihy vee;etatioii, consistiujj; of hcrry-hearin<( plants and
'Uviirf hushes ctf various species, resemhlin;^' the moor-
lands of the north of En<,dand, and ditterin;^ only in the
kind (»f vegetation and its scantier quantity. Bare pattdies
"t^rravel and boulders and cnnnhliug frae-meuts of rock are
tViMineutly met with np<ui the l)arrens, and they are gene-
railv allotrether destitute of rem'tahle soil, liu.t onlv on the
44-2
TIIK I'ttl-AK UdlJM).
J
biinviis is it possihlc to t'Xi»l(»n' tln' iiitrrinr of the coinitix
with any kind of ciisc or expedition. 'J'l, esc (liff'crcnt tr;i(t>
nro none <»1' tlicni el any {j^reat extent; \vo(»(ls, niiirslies. mul
barrens ire(|uently alternating^' with e;i( h other in the course
of a (Uiy's journey.
Anotlu^r reniiirkahle feature of Newfoundliind is tlie alumisf
incredible nundjer of lakes of all sizes, all of which are indis-
criniinately called ponds. They are scattered over the wlir.l,^
coantry, not only in the valleys but on the hi^-lier lands iind
oven in the hollows of the summits of tlierid<4;es and tlw verv
tops of the hills. They vary in si/e from pools of fifty vnnls
in diameter to lakes upwards of thirty miles lom;- and i'nur
or five miles across. The nundjer of those which I'xcf.'il ii
couple of miles in extent must on the wln»le amoniit tn
several hundreds, while those of a smaller size are absoliitdv
countless. It is sn])posed that a full third of the surfaci- ot'
the island is covered by fresh water, and this reckoniiiL;' is
rather below than above the mark. In a country so alnin-
dantly provided with lakes or ponds, it seems stran;jf(^ to find
no navigable rivers. The undulaliny- surface of the liuid.
with its abrupt hills antl deep gullies, is, without all d<iul)t,
one cause of this absence of lar^vr streams.
Each pond or small set of ponds communicates uilli ;i
valley of its own, down which it tends an insif^uilicant brook,
which takes the nearest course to the sea. The chief caiiM'
however both of the vast al)undance of ponds and the com-
parative scantiness of the brooks is to be found in the <^yo',A
coating of moss which spi'cads over the country, and relaitr
the water like a S]K»nge, allowing it to drahi otf but sloulv
and gradually.
The wilds of Newfoundland are tenanted by numerous I'nr-
bearing animals, altording a great source of gain to soino of
the tishermen, who in winter turn furriers. Arctic foxes ai-
here in all their variety. Beavers, once nearly extirpated, but
now unnudested owing to the low value of their fur, arc in-
creasing in numbers. Ih-owii bears are pretty iuimcroii>.
and Polar bears sometimes Iind their way to the northern pr^'-
montory of the island uj^on the ice which comes drit'tin-
down in spring from Davis' Straits. By way of contrast, in
hot summers the tropical humming-bird has been kiiowi
>T. .toiINS.
44.«
ilry
•afl>
iin<\
lUV.Sf
must
ntlis-
s aiid
(■ VI 'VV
yaviU
(1 f"ur
LMM'tl !l
\\\\\ tn
,()l\ltrly
ft'aoi' of
, iilmw-
. t(. tiii'l
III" lau'l
with ;i
lit lii't'"^.
i-l" can-'
lit' c<ini-
llio (flVOiit
|\ iviaiii-
,,t s\|'^v^y
Irons fuv-
I) SOllH' '''
lloxes av'
IviU'tl. I'Ut
ir, aiv ii'.-
Ihorn l>v'-
aviftiiv-
liitvast. ir,
fi. visit llii' s<»u<Iii'ni siinn-s of XcwfoiiiKllinnl. Kfiiitlcov arr
;il»mi(laMl, l»ut iiiitort\iiiiit<'ly their ciu'iiiics Mh' wolvi-s hiivc
likt'wist^ ituToast'd in nuinbcr, sinoo tlio ivwanl j^ivon by tlio
(dlonial •^'ovcrniiieut for their (Icstriiction lias coasod to be
laiil.
AlthouL;]i ill the same hititudf as Central France and the
SdUTli of (.ierniaiiy, NeAvloundland has a h^]\<f and severe
winter, owinfj to the two vast streams of Aretie water, the
Oavis' Straits and East (.Greenland cnrrents. which combine
I
aiii
1 rnn bv its shoi
•es
ai
id tlie snmmer, thonLrh sometim
es
iiitfiiseiv hot, is so short and so freiiuentlv obscured bv fou's,
that even wore the soil less sterih', aj^'i'icnltnre nuist neces-
sai'ily be contined to narrow limits. The little wheat and
hai'h'V, cultivated on the inside lands far above the sea-shore,
is dlten cut fj^reen, and carrots, tni-nips, potatoes, and cabbaj^e
are nearlv all the escnlent veyvtables which the land has
Imth ]>roved capable of producin;^.
Hence we cannot, wonder that the whole island, which is
(•oii;<ideral»ly lar^'cr than Scotland, has only about 1K),0(M>
inhabitants, and even these wonld have had no iiMlucement
u> >c1tle on so unpromising- a soil, if the riches ol" the sea
tlid not amply compensate for the deficiencies of the land.
Fish is the staple produce of Xewfoiuidland, and the bulk of
its jiopulation consists of [)oor lishcrmen, who have established
themselves aloiij'' the deei) bavs by which the coast is in-
il.iitrd, and catcdi near the coast vast quantities of cod,
\\hi<h they brin^;' in and cnre at their leisure, in order to
have it ready for the ships when they arrive. With the
Iter wirld tlu'y have little communication, and a vi>it to
St. Jolurs, the cai)ital of the islan<l. forms an epoch in their
-"iitarv lives.
Ill
This town lies at the head of a with' and secure ba v, and c»»n-
Msts (»f a main street frontinj^- the water, from whieh narrow,
'hrty lanes and alleys branch out towards the land. The din^fy,
'mpainted houses are built of wood, the Lj'overnment edifices
"iilv boiim- constructed of brick or st(»ne. Tlie l(•ll^• rows of
Hsh-stao'os alouf^ the shore attract the stran^t'r's attention,
I'lit lif is still more astonished at the countless ^"in and beer-
^hiips, whi(di at once tell him he is in a place where thirsty
^;iil<>vs and fishermen fbrni the mass of the }>opulation. In
444
riii; I'ui.AU \\«)i:ij>.
tli<' winti'V St. John's is coinitiirativcly dcsortcil, iis it ih^n
liiis ii(> iimn' lliiiii about l0.(M>(l iiiliubitants, l»iit ilioir miiii-
IxT is <loiil)l<'(l oi' tivl)l('(l (luriiiiif tlic iisliin<j- season.
Tlie island of Newfoundland, first soon and visit«'(l in tli"
eleventh ceiitui'}' by the Xorse eolonists of (Jreenland. iiii'l
then utterly fori;<itteu, was rediscovered in 1 11>7 or 1 tUS hv
John aii<l Sebastian Cabot.
The richness of its t•od-t^sheri(^s soon attracted attention,
and iisherinen from Spain, f^-ance, Portu<:fal, and England ;iii-
nually visited its banks. The best harbours alonjj;- the coiist
wore occupied by the tirst comers in sprin;^, — - a. circnm-
stance which p^ave rise to frequent quarrels. To (d)viat<» this
lawless state of affairs. Sir Humphrey Gill)ert Avas sent nut
by {.^ueen Elizabeth in ]o8o to take possession of the luml.
He divided the coast about St. J(din's into districts, and th(>
British settleis willin^-ly ajjfreed to [ta}' a tax to <,n)verninont
in the expectation of seeing their interests better protected.
The new arran^jfement had a beneticial effect on the trade of
Newfoundland, for in K*)].") more than 2o{> Eiej,-lish vessels
visited St. John's, and ^'radually the whole of the eastern
coast of the island tvas occupied by En^^lish fishermen.
The French on their part colonised the north and south
sid(^s of the island, and founded the town of Placentia. onci^
a very consideralde place but now reduced to insip,'nitieiiiiot'.
The rivalry of the French was naturally a ^^reat source of
jealousy to a nation ill-a<'CUstomed to brook any fbreipi
intrusion into its commercial inteivsts. Thus, after the war
of the Spanish succession, Great Britain denuinded ami
oV)tained by the Treaty of Utreclit the sole piossessioii nt
Newfoundland ; and Louis XIV., anxious for peace on any
terms, williu<>dy acceded to this sacrifice, merely reservin;j: i'ox
his subjects the riyht to dry on tlie shores of the island tlii^
fish they had canpfht on the baidvs. By the subseciucnt
treaties of Paris the French were restricted to the small
islands of St. Pierre and Micpielon, but not allowed to nvd
fortifications of any kind.
Besides the English and the French, tlie Americans al>"
have the ri<:j:ht to fish on the baidcs of Newfoundland. l'"i'
when England acknowledged the independence of the Unitiil
States, a formal article of fh<» treaty of peace secured t'
I'.ANKS or Ni:\VF(»rM»L.\XI».
44/
llUtl-
i\ th-
, aii'l
'JS Itv
the liitttT the ii.sliiiii,' itrivik'<^cs wliirli they luul iin'vicii^ly
icans al-
lllau'l. t'"V
lie Tnit'''^
lec^u'otl tc
(.•ii|ny«'U as cidoriit'S.
Tho value of llu' dry cocl-fish al<»iu' expoiictl t'Vorv \ car t'n>iii
N't'wlbuiullaiul is uii an avi'i-a;iio about l<M>,(KM>/., wliili- tlu*
total valuo of the oxporteil produetiitus in lisli, oil, and skins,
is niiwards of 70(),(MM»/. This, from a poi»ulation c>f iSi».<Mi(i or
'.td.OIMI, proves lliat tlie |K>ople ofllic island oui^lit to be liai>i»y
iiiid pr(»speruus ; but unfortunately a system of eredit rendt.'rs
tlie bulk of the tisliermen entirely dei>endenl on the merchants,
and want of e<lueation is a further souree of evil.
Th(Mit;h vast (juantities of eod are taken alon;^' the shores
uf Newfoundland, yt't the m<»st inqtortant lisherv is earrie<l on
oil the banks at some distance frtun the island.
The yreat bank lies liO leaufues from the nearest ]ioint of
land from latitude 41° to 10°, and extends oOO miles in len^-lh
iiiid 75 in breadth. To the east of this lies the False Bank;
the next is styled the Green Bank, al)out 2M> miles hmLi'
;nid 120 V>road ; then Bancjuero, about the same si/e, with
sfveral other shoals of less note, all abonndinii' with fish, bui.
iliietly Avith eod, the yreat maj^'uet Avhieli sets whole tleets in
motion. In winter the eod retire to the deeper waters, but
tlicy reappear in March and Ajtril, wIr-u their i»ursuers
hasten to the spot, not only fnun the bays and loves of
Xfwfomidland but from CJreat Britain, the United .States,
uiiil Friince.
While iishino-, each man has a space three feet and a half
witle allotted to him on deck, so as not to interfere with
his iit'io-hbonr. The lines are from •'»<) to k> fathoms loti*^ —
fnv the eod cjenerallv swims at that dei)th. The (diief baits
nst'd are the squid, a species of cuttle-lish, inul the caiicliu,
a small salmon abonndinn* on the X<>rth-Ameriean coasts.
The herrinjjr and the laui
let'
Hid a slicU-lish called clam,
u»
\vlii(li is found iu the b(dly of the cdd. are likewise nsed.
Ill spriuf*' particularly the end rnslu's so ea'^erly upon the
halt, that iu the course of a sin^i'Ie day a i^mxl ti^lu rnian is
iihh- to haul np four hundred one alter another. This is i
' ii>,v task, considering- the size of the fish, which on an avera;_;e
^vt'i^jis 14 pounds, but lias been taken four feet three inches
1"1il:'. and 4(> pounds in wei^-ht. When a larue tish, to(.
h^uw Ibr the line, has been c.iu^ht, the tisherman calls on
44G
Till-: rOI.AR WORM).
his iit'i<^lil)uiir, who strikes ii hook attiit-hod to a lon^- jm.Ic
into the hsli, iiiul then Siitely hauls it on hoanl.
Miiultiil oCtlie proverb wliieh reconimencls us all to stiike
Avhile the iron is hot, the fishermen continue to catch cid
for hours, until so many iire hea])ed on the tleck, thai t..
make room it becomes necessary to 'dress them down.' Tlii:>
is done on lonj^' planks made to lest with both ends (mi lud
casks, ami thus forming a narrow table. First, each niiiii cut-:
t>ut the tongues of the fish he has caught, as his wjigcs iiif
reckoned by their number, and then the whole crew dividt;
tluMnselvos into t/iroaterft, headers, splltterK, Kdltvrx, and jmrk, ,x.
The throater begins the openition of ' dri'ssing* ' by dniwiii:,''
his knife across the throat of the cod to the bone iiml
ripping open the bowels. He then passes it to the liciidcr.
wdio with a strong wrench pulls off the head and tiMi-s
out the entrails, which he casts overboard, jtassing t]|,.
fish at the same time to the splitter, who with one eut Invs
it open from head to tail, and almost in the twinkling- dl'
an eye with another cut takes out the backbone. Altci-
separating- the sounds, which are placed with the tongues
and packed in barrels iis a delicacy, the backbone t'nl-
lows the entrails overboard, while the fish at the sniu,-
moment is passed with the other hand to the salter. Such
is the amazing- quickness of the operations of heading ami
splitting, thiit a good workman will often decapitate and
take out the entrails and backbone of six fish in a ininuli'.
Every fisherman is supposed to know" something- of eaeli nt
these operations, an<l no rivals at cricket ever entered with
more ardour into their work than <lo some athletic chamjai mis
for the palm of ■• di'essing- down ' after a ' day's catch.'
(Jenerally the fog is so dense, that one ship does not ste
the other, although both may bo so near, that the crows
distinctly hear each others' voices. Frequently one is liardiv
able to see to the distance of a few feet, and the large drnjis
of the condensed mist fall like rain from the yards. During;
calm weather the aspect of the sea is so dismal, that it n -
(piires all the buoyant spirits of a seaman to resist its depres-
sing influence. For diiys the calm remains inibroken, and ii"
sound is heard but that of a fish darting out of the watei', ei
the screech of a sea-bird flitting over the sea. liul souk -
DAXCJKUS OF TIIK COD-FISH KliV.
44:
liiiics II storm breaks tliis nwl'iil siloiicc of niitui-(
At
such
tiiiit'S tho tislnn«j: sliii»s, huUU'ii in mists, run tlu> ^jTcatcst
(hiii^'cr of strikin;;- aLjiiinst each other, alth(»ii<j;li siL^-iial lan-
tt'iiis and alarm trumnets are used to <>-ive warninii'. A
tniiiend(Mis wave burstiu^f on the deek often strikes them
with sueli tovceas to sink theniorchish tlieni to picn-esa^'ainst
ill!" rocky ooist. Thus many a widow and orplian has a
iiidUi'nful tale to relate of the dan'^^ers of the c<)d-llsherv on
till' l)anks of Newfoundland.
In some parts of the coast where tlu> water is snlHcii'utly
sliallow, the C(»d-tish are now cau^'ht in sieves or nets.
his o
perat
ion recpiires more cap
lital t
o commence avi
tht
lan
the mere boat and hooks and lines of tlu> common lishermen,
;iii(l like all improvements met at first with much opposition,
(111 the plea that it must interfere with the interests of the
|Miiiivr class. It is obvions however that the use of the net is
ii'lvanta<^eous to the trade at laru'e, for shoals, or as they are
ti'viaed ' scho(»ls,' of lish may sometimes be seen sweepin;4-
iilmi^- shore, which, but for the net, would escape alto^^-ether.
Ik'sides there seems such an incalculable abundance of tlx;
tisli, that there will always be enoun'h to hook, enou;Lj;'h to
ji::-. I'uoui^'h to net, and nn>re than enou^^h to <4"o away.
•()ne calm Julv evenin»»- ' savs Mr. Juices,"^ 'I was in a
Imiit just outside St. John's harbour, when the sea was pretty
still, vind the tish were " breachin«i^," as it is termed. For
M'vrra
1 mil
es around us
the calm sea. was alive with lish
Tlhv were sporting' on the sui'face of the water, flirting- their
tails occasionally into the air, and as far as could be seen the
water was rippled and broken by their nK)vements. FiOokin;;'
'luwii into its clear depths, cod-fish under cod-lish of all sizes
,i|>[irared swinvininfif al)out as if in sport. Some boats were
ti>liiii^', but not a bite could they yet, the (ish beini4- already
uni-ned with food. Had the <4'round been shallow enough to
use nets, the harbour mi^i-ht have been filled with fish.''
Besides the cod-fishery, seal-catchinn- is also carried on
with ( onsiderablo success on the eastern cttast, which inter-
"pts many immense iieMs and islands of ice as they mov<'
^"Utliwards in the sprin;^- from the Arctic Sea. The interior
* ■ l')xcur>i'iii- in Ni wt'iiuiiillaiiil.
•n«
TlIK I'OL.Mf \V()I{|,1>.
|>urt.s of tlicsc drifting sliouls. with tli<' lakt'.s or Oj>t'niii<:,s
iiit<'r.s})('r.se(l, rcniiiiii uiibrokeii, iui<l on them mvriiids >,(
HCiils may be fbiiiid. in tin; nn)nth of Maivh or April, iis
.soon as tlie icc-fl^'lds descond with tli«' currents from Davis'
.Straits, many small ships, not only frojn the harbours oflli..'
cast coast of Newfoundland but even froui the distant .Scotili
ports, particularly Aberdeen, put out to sea and boldly jilmi:;-.'
into nil the (»penin^s of the ice-lields to nuike war u]»('ii tin-
seals. Armed with firelocks and heavv blud<;eons the crews
sur[»rise the animals on the ice. In this way thousands nw
killed yearly from the north, but their nundjers have lattiih
decreased, and the seal catchers pay the penalty of tlioir
heedless and indiscriminate slau^htei".
Red Bi easied Mc-itraiiier.
' "'•■ra.f,.^
'' '■" Hink.)
jl""" '■■-'"-"is 7V r:*?'™ '•">-- -r„.,M, .
".iiKs— LiiK ,.,)o«- 'CI, o ■' '"""'''ifioii .,(' <;, 1,1 , '""'.III
'^ ;'--'''-l -The G^.:,,; ,^";--'>y-C,avonn, J, '^t^^^
, "-' -- -■ "-:::;^:t::^^^
,:;■";:«- of the a;:; t,r '- -^ y.^ ,„„,, ,„„,.,.,^,^,,,
''''■' ''"'^' l.a, l2 .'''"'^'"■■■ffen ,,ml Xovu-. y , '" ''^
'iivoiii.. 1 '"' '^''ico boon ri,^4^ • ' "''><! rroin
""•" '•'"" -"•) nr.i .,„-,•,• """' ""• ''->"«'^'r
450
TiiK roF,.\i{ \V(tin,i).
in spiic of iill tlio jittonipts made sIiicl- that tiiiic to cirfum-
)iuvi<j^at(j it. The interior of the island — or eontinenl a> it
may perhaps more jnstly be calh'd, I'or it has a surface i<\'
at least 7.')0,(MM) square miles, and is probably laipr tlnin
Australia — is also unknown; for of this vast extent of ten i-
tory only tin; narrow shor« s of tlu! coast-line seemed \i, ]>,•
man. ()n penetratinu' intu
ble t
o
inhabitable, or even aeeessi
the deeper fjords, all the valleys are found blocked with
<j;'laciers, Avhicli, on climbin<^ the heij^'hts, are se<>n to p;i,NS
into a monotonous plateau of ice, or neve, whicdi sccuk Ik
cover and conceal the whole interior. Thus, fnnn its [>h\-
sical conti^-uration, (jlreenland may well be called a mysUridiH
rey;ion ; and, straufj^*? to say, the history of the decline uinl
fall of its lirst colonists is as little known as its <^e(»^-rai>hv.
AVe have seen in a previous chapter that Iceland, so]
leilcr.
ful in the present tlay, was peopled in the ninth centun
Avith a hi^hlv turbul nt race of iarls and vikin
LTS.
OlR"
these worthies, called Erik llauda, or the Red, haviii<„' twin.
dyed his hands Avith blood, Avas banished l)y the Altliin:
(!*S2) for a term of years, and resolved to pass the tiuic <.i
his compulsory absence in ex[»lorin<j;' the land discevrn!
by (iliinnbjorn. After spendin<^' three years on its Avestn:;
coasts, he returned to Iceland, and made so favonralilo ii
report of the new c(»untrv, Avhich — knoAvin^' the advaiitiii;v^
of a i^-ood name — he called (Ireenland, that in I>S<) he imlikvil
a lar^e Ijody of colonists to sail Avith him and settle tlniv.
Other emi;irants folloAved, and in a, few years all the liaM:-
able places of southern Greeidand Avere occupied.
The C(dony, Avhich soon after its finnidation adctjited tii
Christian reliji-ion, Avas divided into two districts or 'bvnil>
(from the Icelandic ' by<4"^ia ' to inhabit), by an intervciiin:'
tract of land named Uby<^(l, the 'uninhabitable' or "ii!-
inhiibited.' The West Uyj^d reached from lat. (WT ddwn t"
ii'2\ and contained, in its best days, IM> farms and 4 chl^rIll^
South of it lay the desert, ' Uby^^d,' of 70 <TfeoLrra|ilm:il
miles, terminated by the East Byu'd, consistintr of l!H» lliri
and havinji- 2 towns. (Jardar and Alba, 1 cathedral, an i ll|
churches. The Avhole po])ulation may probably have jiniouiit.
to <»,(M»0 souls. The country Avas g-overned by Iceliiii'li'i
laws, and tlu^ first of its eighteen bishops, Arnold.
Ill
■■in
SCANDINAVIAN COl.ONI I.S IN <i !{I;i:NI,AM».
4/1
ewtn-
•.v> It
' \\\;\u
' tfvvl-
\i\ 111'
,\ with
ill \iU>>
its v^^^-
^•sU'vinus
lint' 11 nil
so \n'iV''-
One "'^
nui: twin'
lu> lull'' "1
,\\.^,MiYi'Vr>l
ij^ W*'St«'V-
ivuiival'l'' ■''
ulviu\tu-_"-
In' intliH'v'l
.till' tlKf.
tilt' li.i^'i"-
liut»'vvii»"'-'l
Ik;" a.)Nvn \"\
IvaU auAU!
cli'cicd in 11l!1. tlic last bcinu: l"iii<lriil(» AiMliVii-icii. wlio
AMIS ('Miis<'oratf(l ill 1 |o(;. In sjiitc df its jtovt-rfy itml dis-
faiict', (Ji'cciilainl was oldiy-fd to (•(mtrilmte its mite to tln»
n'Vi'inn's <it" till' pai)al chair, for wo rcatl in tlu' ancient
aiuialists, that, in 1 -Vli't, its tril>nt(>, consisting' of wah'ns teeth,
\v;is sold hy the po]>e's a;^ent, IJcrtrani of (Jrtolis, to a nier-
ilniiit of Flanders for the snni of I li livres and 1 I sons.
The time, however, was now fast a|>[tro;irhin'_;- wIimi the
(lii.'idand colonv was not onlv to c<,'ase i>avin<' tithes juiil
I'fter's pence, hnt to Ik* swept away. Dnrin^- the conrse of
ilic i'onrtoonth centnry it was visited hy one niitfi'ortnne after
.metlier. The black death, whicdi carrie<l off twenty-five
millions of Europeans, did not spiiro its distant fjords
111^ 0) ; the Estpiinninx harassed the snrvivors with re-
]i.',ited atta(d\s, Ivillin^ some, and carryin;^ away others
;!]iiive. A hostile fleet, snspe('fe<l to he I'hiLi'lish, laid waste
•lio ti.\niti'y in MbS; and finally, the revolutions and wars
which Imdx'e out in Scandinavia after the death of (^neeii
Mar^;;aret of U'aldennir, caused (Jreeidaml to \)o entirely
in'tilccted and for^ott<Mi. The last colonists either retreated
\<> Iceland, or were destroyed hy the l']s(piiinau.\, and many
\''ars
<dapsed hefero (Jreeidand was at^'ain thought of
as
lii-e where Scandinavians had once been living". At len;.',th,
;i,,o- Frederic II. of Denunirk S(Mit out I\Io;^rens ITeineson,
: famous '•sea-cock' as the chroni(ders style him, 1o the
I'ltli-eastern coast of (ireenland (loiSl), fo see if men of
1 Xerse oriij;-in still dwelt alon;j^ those ice-l>onnd tjords.
Hiiiii'son reached the coast, but the ^reat transjiari ncy of
'ni'air, which in the I\dar reunions frequently causes stran^-e
•I'ticiil delusions, led him into a sint^ular ermr. Afler
!:;iviu^- sailed for many lionrs in the same direction, and still
■'iiin- the mountains which s-'omed (piite near recede ;is lie
alvaiiced, he fancied himself fettered by an invisible pow.-r,
ml tliiis the fannnis 'sea-cock' returned home with tlf
!'i"irt that, detained bv a niau'iif'tic rock, he had not been
ill' to re.ich the land.
Ill l()(l."), Kin^- Christian IV. of Denmark sent out a new
L> aiuevwto'lBilroeuland expedition, consistini,' (tf three ships, under the
A(vne\'b «"^
mniiand of Godske Lindenow. and the! ^niidance of .lames
ill, an Euo-lish i»i!<>t. This time no niaj^'netic rocks
4/!2
•rup. Vii\.\R wonuK
iiilrrvriicd ; l)iit Ili(« s1ii|»s liiiviii^' 8(')tiiru<<'<l, ir:ill liiiMlfil dii
tin- Wi'st ('f»iiKt, Aviiicli Iiiul iilrciidy Ixwii rcdist'ovn'c*! iiiul
visijcd hy Oiivis, HihIhoii, naffiii, iind oUicr Avf-rm imvi
}^iitii>rs; wliilo Lindciiow, iiiicliorin^' ofl' ('ii|M' KiirfAvcIl, ki.|
nnpiK'd two I'Lsquiinnux, who ;ir<t'rwiir<ls died of nosjid^'iii in
DcMiiiiirk. But iicitlu'r Jjiidoiiow, nlio llic y«>iir iil'lt'i* iiti;iiii
niiid*' luH ii]>|>oaranc«' on <lio wcsltTii roasl, of (ircoidiiiid
nf>r two later ox]>('diiioiis iiialcv Carsicn Kiiliardson ;iii<l
DaimcU, were able 1o ed'oc't a landing on any pad ol' tli,
♦'asti'vn const. Tt was in si^lit, but ilic drift-it'*' made i'
inaccossil)I('. Tlicy were equally inisuceossful in flndin;;' iiii\
traces of tlio lost colony, wliichcame atlen<4tli to l»e rejjfaidiii
as a. mere Hcaiuliiiavian niytli. l>iit while no one else Ciucl
about, its <'xistenc(», the ardent lla)is Ej^^ede (born in Xm-
way, January ;$! , 1('>S({), pastor of Vaa^'e, in the Lofoten
Islands, still continut'd to cherish its nuMiiory. He liml
read in the ancient chronicl(»s about the old CMiristinn
communities in Greenland, and could not believe in tluii
total extinction. ITe felt the deepest concern in the fate it
their descendants, and the thou<^ht that after so loni; ii
separation from the mother country they ninst needs li
pinniped in barbarism and heathen darkness, left him no n>
by ni^ht or day. At lenofth he resolved to devote his lif'o t'
their spiritual welfare, and to become the npostle of rciliv
covered or ref>encrated Ciroenland. His zeal and persevn
ance overcame a thousand difHcidties. Neither the piiMk
ridicule, nor the coldness of the authorities to ■whom Ii
vainly applied for assistance, nor the exhortations of Iii>
friends, could damp his ardonr. At leno^th, after years ii
fruitless endeavours, after having' given up his livin»4' mil
sacrificed his little fortune in the prosecution of his plaii.^. Ii'
succeeded in forming a Greenland Company, with a e;ipit i!
of 9,000 dollars, and in obtaininjif an annual stipend I'lcia
the Danish Missionary Fund of 5}00 dollars, to which Kin:'
Frederick IV. added a gift of 200 dollars. With tliiv?
ships, the largest of which, ' The Hope,' had forty ccdonisl
board, Egede, accompanied by his Avife and fonr chikhvii, ^i
sail from the port of Bergen on May 12, 1721, and reiielu
Greenland on July 8, after a long and tedious passage, ii'
Avinds had driA^en him to the western coast, in latitude <il
IICI'
Htii
Hills ij
'■'t^'iji.
HANS IKiKDK.
4.5 J
\u\r\\ oil
io u;ivi
,tl\V^Mil HI
Id* ;i'4'.iii'
ivonV.iii'l
ilsou '.iii'l
vl ».V tli'
,. nv.\A»' ''
luVui'^" !lll}
I'u ill N"i-
Ho lia'l
i Cbvistiiiii
■vo in t^i''"
, tlio t';iti' "i
. so lt»11r ''
st needs l"'
hiin ii«> 1'* ^'
liis VitV !■
,tlo of veAi>-
lul pcvscvcv-
Iv the pnlili'
o wlioin li'
litioiis of lii>
■tor years 'I'l
is Uviii*^- nii'l
his plnvis.li'
itli a ciiritai
Istipeiul lV"ii
which Ki'i^l
With tluvj
Ivcohniisls'ii
chiWvi'ii.^'
luid verti'l"-
lasssVfi-e. ^i'
iutiiua.'t''
;iiiil lu'ff lit' n'solvrd iit oiiff ti» lK';^'iii Ills cviiiitJii'li'Ml IwImmu's
with llie l*iS(iiiiiii!iii\. A wooden cliiiiM'l was s|M'L'(lily eri'dt'd,
wliifli formed the linst nueh.'us of the slill existin;j; xrttlemciit
>>[' (iodtlliMll).
I'.iit if 111*' lift' of the woi-lliy K'^cdc liiid foi* miiiiy a year
lni'ii fidl of troidtlc lu'fore he wi'iit (o (irt'cnlaiid, triiils islill
iiKUf si'Voro awaitt'd liiiii diiriii;^- liis aiMisloIicuI can-cr. Jio
li;iil ii()i merely tlie .su.s[>icioiis of <lie Ksquimaux, Ihe »'iimity
uf tlit'ir medicinc-meii, tJic sev«'rily of the climate, and n(»t
x'ldom even faiiiiiu' to contend wilh. His own foniitrymcn,
.lisiippoinled in tlicir hopes of carrying on a. hicrative tradi?
with the CJroonlanders, resolved to abandon it alt(»^;etlK'r,
,ii;.I, after ten lal»(»rious years, the (jlovernnuMit nut oidy with-
(hvw all furtliei' assistance from the mission, hut even
nidcicd the colony to be broken up. All his com|tanions,
uitli the exception of a few volunteers who en<^'a<jfcd to share
his forttmes, now returned to Denmark; but Ey-ede, Ihout^h
liis health had been so shattered by almost snperhuman
ix(iti(tns, that he had lon;^ since been obli<,'ed to leave all
iitive duties to his son, resolved, like a, faithful soldier, to die
lit ]iis i)<)st. In 17:>'{, his perseverance was at lenn;th re-
warded by the <;Tateful news that the kin^-, at the entreaty of
ijuuit Zinzendorf, the founder of Jlerrenhnth, had consented
t'l hcstow an annual ^^rant of 2,000 dollars on the CJreenland
mission, and that three Moravian brothers had arrived to
assist him in his work. Thus he could at lenjj^th (I Too)
ii'liiru with a <piiet heart to his native comitry, where he
'lioil universally re<j;retted in 1 758, at the a^e of seventy-two.
It iiia\' easily be snpposed, that durinj^ his h)n<^ stay in
• iiecnland he anxiously sought the traces of his lost coun-
tniuL'M, for the desire to help them had first led him to that
Arctic country. Nothinjjf in the physio^'nomy of the Esqui-
[iiuiux, or in their lan^^uage, pointed in any way to an Euro-
au (irii^in, and even then- traditions said not a word of the
I "U Xorse settlers, who had once inhabited the land. The
luiiis of some churches, and other buildinys scattered hero
and there aIonj| the west coast, alone attested their exist-
liiicc, ;iiid formed a link betw-een the past and tlie present.
I'llius if (Jreenland still had inhabitants of Scandinavian
'I'i^'iii. thev must lu'cessarilv be confined to the eastern
454
Tin: i'oi.Ai: woiii.n.
const, l)('yo!i(l ('iijM> iMircwcll. Itiit l'];,n'»lt' was iis litiU' !ili|r,i>
liis |>r('(l('('«'.ssi»rs In |»«iK'tniti' thrnKM^h tln> l(M'-b<'It wlii.li.
)»otli l»v liiiid iiiul sou, coniplt'lt'l)' H»'[)aiatf«l it IVuiii tli" ii st
<)
n
H' \v(»r
1.1.
For uiiiiiy yrnvA after his <lt'uth it ri'iuainc*! tiiiknown inul
iiiact'i'SHiltit' ; and liiiwciioni, who was siiil out in I7m!-n7
to ii'iicw the attempts of llrincsoii and Linch'How, lonl un
l)t'ttrv MiiceesH. No (h)nht many a whiilcr may have ti<hiiii--il
its distant mountain peaks ^dowin^' in the eveninij; sun. or
may liave been driven by the storm ai,Miiist ils shores, hut lln'
Scoreshvs W"re tlie tirst to determine accurately the iKisitidM
of part of its widl-feneed coast. lu the year |SI7, (';i|it;ii!i
Scoreshy tlie elder, <h'viatin;x fi'*>m the usual course of t!' •
■whalers, steered throU'di the western ice, and reaclitil th"
east coast (»f (nvenlaud, l)evoud "<>
ih
cou
id
easily Iii\
landed ; the coast which had so fri'(iuently liailled tin' w-
tomiits of jnwious navi;xii^<'i''' hiy iiivitiuijfly hi'fore hiui. li,'
1
je CO
uld not sacrilice his dutv as the commander of a
Willi!'!'
to curiosity or renown. And thus without haviui,' m1 I
foot on sh<»re, he ailed hack into tlie open sea. On ;i hit
visit, however, he landed in the sound whifdi lte;irs his iiui
rV
III'
I'l'.
In tho year 1S22, Scoreshy the youn^'er snci-ecdcd in in
cdosely examining- the land. Leaving' tho usual track of tin'
■whalers, he had steered to the west, and threadi'd liis \\;i\
throu<4'h the drift-ico until between 7(l° •»'"•' and 71 \-' N.
hit. the coast of Greenland lay before him. No coast tlii'
lie had ever s(!en before had so majestic a character. Tl'
mountains, on which lu? bestowed tin' laune of Koscec, co'i-
sisted «)f nund)erless jao-<^'ed stones or pyramids, risiu;^' in
individual peaks to a height of i>,()(M) feet, and a cliaos «(
sharp ne(.'dles ct>vered their rou^-h declivitii's.
On July 21, he landed on a rooky in'omontory, which l<'
named Ci\\)0 Lister (7<>^ oO'), and olimbiii<4,' its summit cuii-
tinued his excursion ahui;^ its back, which was l)ct)Vi,vii|
tlireo and four liundred loot hi^h. Here and there lictvcu
the stones, which were either naked or thinly clotlicil witlij
lichens, Woomed an AmJromedd tetraffuna, n Sa.vljhu/K t>\>ii>
tlfolia, a V(i paver vHdlaiiilc, or a liammculiis in'ralis, At|
Cape Swainson ho a<^aiu descended to the shore, whicli li'i'''!
formed a Hat strand, about (}<M> foot broad. Some dcsoiti
rtioia>iiv I.N t.i{i:i;M.vM».
^-..i
wli'bll.
wn iiii'l
17m1-^7
liiiil ii'i
Mill, or
i, bill til-'
jxtsitii'ii
(";il.t;im
St' til' tl'.i'
jsily ln\ ■
a ih' a'-
• l\iin, but
r ;l wlllll'T
l.f j^ct lli-
l)n ;i liit'i'
bis iiaiii''.
,1 in 111"'"
',,.•!< .'ft!r
71 12' N.
roust lliii'
»S('Ol', (•"!'-
visui'i i"
III rhui.s "t
ubicb 1''
liumit con-
Is llL'tWO'llj
^'O bt'tWtvU
l.tb^•.l^^i'lM
Ivbicb li''i"''|
le (b.'Sort'"ll
Iv'iiniimiux huts soon nn'<'st<'(l his attrnlion. Cbnrntl tlrift-
wimmI iiiiii a <iMinitity of iishcs lay scuttfrtMl aboiii tho
liiMi'tlis, atxl ih'ovimI that thrsf (Iwt'HiiMrs hail iiot btcn bni''
Inisakcu. Scarcely a binl was to be sfcii on lainb but
ccinitlcss auks and tlivcrs auiniatctl the waters. A j^^reat
iiiiiiiber of wiu^'eil insects buttertlies, bees, niusquitot s —
lli'u or bu//eil about, |>articulai*Iy on the hillocks beh\. 'cn
flic stones. Un July -•">, he uiu-t! more laialeil on ('ai>e
Ib'pe, whei'e he a<,'ain f'ountl traces of inhabitan's. H(»iies
dl'liares and fraij;nients of reiinleer-horns lay s<Mittere<l about
nil ilic ;;roini<l. The skull of a, (lo<,' was |»lante(l on a small
iiKiui.il of earth, for it is a belit'f of the (iroenlaud Ksijuimaux
that the (lo'% who linds his wa v <'vervwhere, must nercssaiily
111- the best f^^uido (»f the innocent chiMreu to the land of
Miiils. The heat, whi(di 8o(»n put an end to this excursion,
was so ;;reat, that many of the plants liad shed their seeds,
mill some were already comitletely dried up and shrividleil.
The part of the coast of Kast Greenland discovered by
Scoresby, and that which was visited the year afler by
t'iavcriiij^', lay, however, t<»o far tt> tlie north to atford any
rhii' about the extinct Scandinavian settlements, even sup-
I'Hsiii^' them, as was then still believed, to Inive been partly
>itiuitcd to tho east of Cape Farewtdl. At len;Lj:th, in tho
y ar is^i), Captain Craah, who had been sent out by Kin;j;
Fivdciic'k VI. of Denmark, succeeded in explorint^ the S(»uth-
• a-stcrn roast of (Ireenland, from its southern extremity lo
till' latituth.' of (>o° 18' beyon<l which no colony could cvi'r
liuvc existed; an<l as he nowliere found either the most insin'-
iiiticant ruins, or the least traces of an ancient Christian
■^"ttlcmeut in the langua^-e and customs of the natives, it was
:mi\v fullv proved that the east bvu'<l of the old clu'oniclers
Wis. in reality, situated on the south-western coast of (Jreeii-
iiiiiil. in tho present districts of Julianshaal) and Lichtenaii ; a
"i;ist vrhich, in comparison with the more northi'rn colonies
"f Frcderikshaab and Fiskeruils, distinctly trends to the east.
The [iresent Danish settlements, which are contined to the
inure slieltered fjords of its western coast, are divided into
niurth and south inspectorate, the former extending- from
I int. (!7^ to 72°, and comprising;- the districts of Upernavik,
"lut'imk, Jakobshavn, Christiansliaab, Egedesminde, and
4,56
TIIK I'OLAIi W()itM».
(jodhiivii oil iJisco Iftl.iiid ; wliilc tlie hitter (■(Hitaiiis the
districts of llolstcciisbor;^", Sukkertoppeu, Godthiuib, Fiskrr-
iiiisset, Frederiksliiiab, and Juliaiisliaab.
In the year l!So5 the popnhitioii of the South Iiisi)ec'tiir;i1i'
consisted of (>,12<S abori;^'iiial Greeidanders, or Esquimaux.
and 120 PJuropeaus ; that of the N(jrth Inspectorate of :!,M(i
of the former, and 128 of the latter; a very small number il
we consider that it is scattered over a space of 12° of latiliulc.
In a country like this, such tou-nx as Godhavn, witli 1")(» in-
habitants, or Godthaab, the most populous of all, Aviih :!■!•'.
pass for considerable cities.
IJut in spite of its scanty population, Greenland is a valu-
able possession of the Danish crown, w rather of the l);iiu>li
company which entirely monopolises the trade, and niaiiii-v-
its affairs so well, that the Greenlander receives for his |ini-
duce t»nly about the sixth part of its jyrice at Copenlia^vn.
According to the average of six years (1850 1855), the totiil
value of the exports from Greenland amounted to o 78,58s
rix-doUars; that of the importations from Denniarkto KM, 21'.
but in the latter sum was included not only the price paid tn
the Greenlanders for their goods, but all the stores ainl
provisions necessary for the agents and servants of the cum-
pany, the missionaries, and the administration of the colony.
The trifling amount which, after all deductions and churi;vs.
the poor Greenlander receives for his seal-skins or h\>.
blubber, he generally spends in tobacco, candy-sugar, ((iffc'.
and sea-biscuits, for his real wants are amply supplied l»y hi-
own country, and he has not yet learnt to invest his 'saiu-
niore proiltably. Like all other Esquimaux, he dcpciKh
chiefly upon the sea for his subsistence. Of the varinii-
species of Phocie found in the Greenland waters, the iiu'^t
valuable is the his})id .seal [Phorn /ilnpida), both IVuin i:-
numbers and frojn its frequenting the fjords duriiiu' tli''
whole year; while the larger Greenland seal {ritoni ijivn-
liDuUca) is not stationary like the former, but leaves lli'
coast from INIarch to May, and from July to Septcinbi'i'.
The Ci/iitoji/iora crisfntn, or hoode*! seal, remarkable I'ui' ;'
globular sac, capable of inflation, on the head of the aial^
ai)pears in the fjords only from Apri> till June. If is th
most |iugiiacious of all the seals. In the southern (li>ti'iil-
US till'
ctur.it 1'
ihniuix,
iinlifv it'
alitndi'.
loO iii-
iih :;:;»».
s a viilu-
2 Dauisli
iiiaii;ii;'i'>
his pv"-
ieulmii;»'ii.
i\w total
jir.i/ii--.
ce i>ai<l tn
tores ami
the c*iui-
lic colony.
\ cliar'^'i's,
\s or lii^
av, cotit'i'.
ICH
Unl
11-
1
lis u'aiii-
del
H'lU
le vano"^
tho most
tVoiii ii-
ill-
lUflUI.
V( III
leavos
tlir
:'ptL'inl.t'i''
ll.lc for ;'
I the iiial<'-
It is tli''
II di^in'-i--
u-ii
Wilt
the
(].'ti
wlii
iuid
IVL-O
A
I I'll CO
Vitlui
from
(-•iiuy!
lifter
the u
Cf tll(
liuiidi
luirw]]
I'l'i^uhi
lull) ye:
th;it a
I'l" llUK
I'f a fii
Iiiiivest
■■vident
iii the f
near IL
Tlie t
lander's
is of ct
"ther otl
tliose sh
"■"vs, pa
surface.
"itli a si
'ii't-' also (
They are
^""'d deal
i^aliiabl^
SIIAlii; I'ISIIKltV.
•4^7
ulit'iv the soal-huntiii<^' must be cliiolly ean'icHl on in opoii
water, the Greenhuider relies upon his boat,thc kayak. When
the animal is struck, the barbed point of the harpoon
detaches itself, by an in^v^nions mechanism, from the shaft,
which otherwise would be broken by its violent contortions,
and as the line is attached to a bladder, it can easily be
recovered.
Among- the cetaceans the white dolphin {Drlph'inoidvi'Hi^
hiic(u) and the narwhal {Monodon monoceros) are the most
valuable to the Greenlanders of the North Inspectorate,
t'roiu oOO to GOO of these hug"e animals bein<^ annually
caught. The .former makes its appearance a short time
after the breaking np of the ice, and again in antnnni ; in
summer it seeks the ojjen sea. Sometimes large herds of
the white dolphins are cut off from the sea by the closing in
(if the ice in the neighbourhood of the land, so that several
hundred may be killed in the course of a few days. The
narwhal is caught only in the Onienak fjord, which it visits
ici,nilarly in i-ovember. As its chase is both difficult and
ilangerous, the Greenlanders generally hunt it in company, so
that after a narwhal has been struck wdth the first harpoon
or lance, others ai-e ready to follow up the advantage. The
larger Avhales are now seldom caught, but the dead body
of a lin-back is not seldom cast ashore, and affords a rich
liaivest to the neighbourhood. Sometimes masses of oil,
"vulently proceeding- from dead whales, are found floating
ill the fjords. In 185 1, 95 tons of this matter were collected
near Holsteinburg.
The fishes likewise amply contribute to supply the GreiMi-
'.iiiiilor's Avants. The shark-fishery {Hcumnna vilcroci'iilinJiix)
is i>f considerable importance. The entrails of seals and
other offal are placed in the openings of the ice to attract
those sharks to the spot, where they are caught in various
ways^, particularly by toreli-light, which brings them to the
surface. The fishermen, watching the moment, strike them
with ti sharp hook, and then drag them upon the ice. They
arc also caught with strong iron angles attached to chains.
They are captured for the sake of their livers, Avhich yield a
i,'ouil deal of oil. It has very recentlv been ascertained that
ivaluaUe substanee veseuibling spermaceti may be expresse<l
469
TlIK I'Ol.All WOULD.
from the carcase which was foriiicn-ly wask-d, and for tliis
purposo powerful screw presses are now enip^)}e(l. Altoiil
;)(>,(M)() of these i^hittonous animals are can«iht everv vrar,
iiiul tlie lishery may be f,'reatly extended, as the hditoni of
tliu ice-ijords absolutely swarms Avith them. Their ciiji-
tnro is atteu(h,'d with far less trouble and danj^^'r than in
Iceland, where they are pursued in boats, and in a ca])rici(iu.s
and tempestuous sea. Improvinj^ upon the old Esquimaux
methods of fishinof or huutin|^-, tlic Danish residents set iic(s
for the white whale or tho seal; for the former, tluy nv,-
attached to the shore, and extend off at ri<4'ht anyles, so as tn
intercept them in their autumnal southern mi;j,Tation, wlim
they swim close alou;^ tho rocks to avoid the L,n'aiiqius.
AVhen the white whale is stopped by the net, it often appears
at iirst to Ik; unconscious of the fact, and continues to swim
aq;aiijst it, and then allows the boat to a}>proach it ii-dm
behind. If eutauf^'led in the net, it is soon drowned, as, liki'
all the whale tribe, it is obliged to come to the surface to
breathe.
A larL;'e quantity of cod are caugdit in varions parts of tli"
South Inspectorate, particularly at I'iskernasset, which beiiii,'
less subject to fogs and more exposed to the sea-wind otiVrs
peculiar advantages for the drying of the fish. The cajx'lin
{MdUotuii vilJosH,^), which in May and Jime visits the coasts
of Greenland in great numbers, is eaten both fresh or lai'l
upon the rocks to dry for the winter. The sea-wolf, tln'
lump-lish, the bull- head, the Norway haddock, the salinuii-
trout, are likewise important articles of food. The halibut
grows to a- huge size, and a smaller species (7//^)j;oj//o^s'i>
piiiiiii.ts) is fished for at the depth of 180 or even oSO fatlii'iii>.
The banks frequented by this fish are most valuable to tli ■
neiLJ'hbouring Greenlanders. Manv are no doubt still un-
discovered, others nuiy be known by the dead fish fioatini;
on the surface, or by the seals diving out of the water v>it!i
a flat fish in their mouth. Long-tailed crabs are easily
caught in many parts, and the common mussel may h:
gathered almost everywhere at ebb tide.
Crowds of birds nestle during the summer on the roekv
shores, particularly at Upernavik, where the largest breediiii.'
places are found. They are generally killed Avith small j
FLuiiA or (ii{i;i:.\M.\i).
4.1it
• this
\.\>» 'Ut
(iin <'t'
• ca])-
lau in
vicious
\inunix
lot nets
liey avo
so as to
n, \s\\v\\
to swim
it iVfiii
I, us, lik<'
,urfae*) l'»
tlie voelcy
tbreeaiu'^
ivitli ^wd
liliiuiL'il iiri'owc!. Ill lliL' i»'o-lj(»nl of Jacobsluivii, tlio ;.;ulls
iivt' ('aiiL;'ht iii^'jiiiously l>y iloatiii}:^ traps on which soini'thinn'
brilliant or rcscniblinj^- a tish is fixf.l. The v^'^a f)t" tlie sca-
binls tire {gathered in vast numbers, and Ihe t'eiithers and
sl;iiis of the eith'r-duek an<l auk are both e.vporteil and used
l\>v the linin<^- of boots.
Compared with the wealth of the seas the land is very
ynnv. The chiise of the reindeer is, however, important, as
its skin attbrds both a warmer and a softer clothin;n' than
that of the seal, and serves moreover as a bed cover or a
sliHl;.;"e carpet, lieindeer hunting" is a favourite summer occn-
|iation of the Greenlanders, Avho annually kill from 1(>,(»(I0 to
2i»,u()il, and export about one-half of the skins. Only a few
(%>\vs, sheep, and t^-oats are kept at Julianshaah. For want
(if hay they are fed with fish durin<^ the winter. In south
(incnland the potato is cultivated by the European resi-
(1 'Ills as a luxury. The plant never flowers, and ev(>n buds
;iiv rare. Turnii)s, cabbages, salad, and spinach likewise
'iiMw in South Greenland, but barlev sown in the *»;ardens
s'lircely ever comes to ear. In summer the windows of the
limises are <^'ay with geraniums and fuchsias and other
tluwers of a more temperate zone.
Among the indigenous plants the berries of the Einixirinn
I'i'iniiii, Vacclnii(m nliiiinosnm, and Vnccin'unn. cifix iihin,
t!irui>h the Greenlanders with their only vegetable food.
While the coasts exposed to the bleak sea-winds attVu'd
.- iuaty traces of vegetation, the valleys and hill slopes of the
iiiirc sheltered fjords are green during the summer, and jus-
; ly the name bestowed by Erick on the land of his adoji-
tiiiii. Forests are of course out of the question in Greenland,
thiiu^h in some phices the birch attains a not inconsiderable
>i/r. Thus in a dell at the U2)per end of Lichtenau Fjord
;i thicket of these trees, tifteen feet high, surrounds a, little
lake ted by a waterfall, the largest hitherto known in Green-
iiiiil. More generally, however, the trees, such as the beech,
'lie willow, the elder, &c., merely cree]) along the ground,
'vhere the dense matting of their roots and branches, mingled
^vith bushes of the empetrum, or with mosses, lichens, and
lal on leaves, forms a kind of turf which is used as fuel by
l^he Danes.
4G0
Tin: rnLAIl WOULD.
In somo iHoiismv tin.' sea iniikcs up lor the Wiiiit of tiiiilnr
by euHtiii^'Oii tlio shore ii (|Ujintity ofdriCt-wood, tlie ori'^in of
>vlii('li is still ii matter of doubt, some traciu','' it to the Norfli
Ami'ricaii rivers, others to those of Siberia. It eonsi,>,t.s
mostly of the u^n'ooted trunks of coniferous trees. Sonictiiiirs
also lar«^-e pieces of bark, such as those of which th(.' Iinliiins
niak(» their canoes, and sewn to^'ether with threads of Imir,
are drifted into the fjords.
The mineral kino-dom, thou^di it has within the last few
years attracted the attention of specidators, will hardly cvrr
realise their hopes. Several attemjjts to work the lead ami
copper ores at Nainirsoak and in the Arksak Fjord Imvc
miserably failed. The cost of transport is immense, and Ww
ditticulty of obtaining the necessary workmen presents iiii
insuperable obstacle to all mininj^ operations in Greenlaiid.
Thouo-h the Greenlanders have now been for more than a
century under the iiiiluence of Christian teachers, yet their
mode of life is still much the same as that of their relatives
the wild Esquinumx on the opposite continent of Nurtli
America. Like them, they use the ' kayak,' the ' ooiuialc,'
and the sledge ; like them, they live in small winter huts of
stone (the snow-house is unknown to them), or in suiiuner
tents hung" with skins, and they are ecpially improvident in
times of abundance. Their constant intercourse Avith Eurn-
peans has, however, taught them the use of nuiiiy luxuries
imkiiown to the wild Esquimaux, and they are now ^reiit
consumers of cotfee. They are fond t)f instruction, but tlw
immense space over which the population is scattered, ami
their vagrant life during a great part of the year, are i;i'eat
hindrances to their improvement. They are also very gi'ed-
natnred, and live on the best terms with the Danes who rcsiil
among them. The latter, who, with the exception of tin
Moravian missionaries, are all in the service of the Company. I
soon get attached to the country, and leave it with regret :j
sometimes even returning to close their days in (jlreeiiland.
The climate, though severe, is very healthy, and the levd
of sport finds ample opportunities for gratifying his favour-
ite passion. In September, or at the beginning of OctolHiJ
tlu^ last ships leave for Europe; and then, till the next Apii
or May — when the th'st English whalers appear in tin
><M',l)(il': I'AIJTIKS.
401
li\sl IVw
end HUil
,V(\ 1>'1\V
, and til''
sciils an
;cuVant\.
1.-C lluiuii
yet tlu'iv
L« relativis
of l^ovtli
' ooiivi'tdM
^^Y liuts *'t
ovWeii^ ill
vitU Kuv.'-
vy luxuriL>
now i^'vout
|i(.i'ts of (HMlliiivii or rpcniiivilv — nil (•ninniuiiiciilioii with
till' civilised world is totnlly <'nt <>IK Towards tlic oiid nl'
.liimiiiry, or ilio l)0;4'iiiiii]i|jf of Fobriinry, wIkmi llio days l)(>;4iii
rapidly to lon^tlion, froquont sledge parties keep U]) a con-
stiiiit iiitor(dunif(0 of visits between ilie various settleiiieuts.
This mode of lravellin<4' over the lakes and enclosed fjords is
vi'vy a^Tceable in May, as then tli(» sun is [»leasanilv ^vann at
neon, an<l tlion^'li lie hardly disap)>ears below tlie liori/on,
llic ni|^*'his are snfticiently cold to converi the melted snow
into ice bard enouj^'h to bear the weii^'htof a sl(>di;-e. Tliis is
tlio best time for visitinj^ many interesting- spots inacces-
sil)lt> at other seasons of the year, and for enjoying- many a
<i('iie nnsurpassed in Switzerland itself. Ifere, as on tbe
Alps, the i^'lacier and the snow-clad peak appear in all their
i.Tiindeur; here also, in the valleys, the i-iummer brooks flow
lietween well-clothed banks, and the Helvetian lakes are
worthily rivalled by the magnificent fjords (»f (jlreenland.
In many parts, the waves beating against the steep coasts
fif the islands and fjords, render access ditficidt, if not im-
possible during the snnnner ; but in winter or spring, they
may easily be visited across the ice. The surf has worn
many caves in these precipitous rock-walls, which are no less
ivmarkable for their picturesque basaltic forms than for the
lin^e masses of ice on their sides, which, in their tints and
^.'louping, far surpass the stalactites of the most renowned
Huropoan grottoes.
The ?ii('.v C' oso.
X
<r^
y'
/ \
13t)
J 20
IIH)
Wt
71)
OU
III
TninuirXtu\
(\ Liinil
'.Ttumu
Ji\m
«^v
**»»»,
''"/,;
v^*^
,r-^-
\ i- at)
n K s \
[ro"
huUffii .
Hprlll'P
/*(ir»-»-.t tiirthi'jil
V?
w
v»v
A Y
JIO
'll^
\l
SliftlniuLTc^.
r)
\
Faroe I? 4'-"
ip^n
^-i ^
>ff '
^
!u)
^
Sovt
■f ockV)ttV«v\ ■
'AftTi
iJafi
i^iouthaiuv
/
31)
^%
BAY
\ ^
)0
90
80
70
60
50
40
I'Airr II.
'm ;.\TAi;cTrc i;egioxs.
1^
if the t'
IVriiviiui
-Tlie A
I.onpurd-
vm A
i tlliUl
like tlie
iit'rdsiiien
l^'iiulecr t
'^'iiiiiliiibitj
Risk-ox (
Fill fbuiul
'liiilnipod
P the jiiosi
'■'*'- I'ipt ion.
^yoii.l Co(
■"^I'itzboiN
Cape Cro7.icr and Meant Terror.
CHAPTER XXXVT.
THE ANTARCTIC OCEAN.
"iiiparativc vlow of tlio Aiitarctii^ ami Arciit' Kottions — liifrricrify of Ciimati
it' the fornuT Its Causes — The New Slu'tlaiul iHlamls — South r.eorpia--Th(
IVniviaii Stream— .Sea-liinls—Tlic Giant Petrel— TIic Alhati
'OSS -
The J
-Tlie Austral Wliale— Tlie Ifuueliliaek— Tlie Fin-Eack— The Gr,
llattle with a Whale— The Sea-Eleiiliaiit — The Smiihirn Sca-ll.ai
I.oiii'ar(l--Antaretie ]"i>]us.
engiiiM
inipii."
TI
:ie Seu-
HIE Antarctic regions are far nu»re desolate and barren
lliiin the Arctic. Here we have no energ-etic hniiters,
iiko tlie Esqiiimanx, chasing the seal or the -vvalrus ; no
Lnlsiiien following, like the Sanioyedes or the Liipps, their
iviudeer to the briidc of the icy ocean ; but all is one drear v,
liiuinliiibitable waste. While within the Arctic Circle tli(»
wnsk-ox enjoys an abundance of food, and the leniiiiiug is
li'till found thriviuc: on the bleakest islands, nut a siniile laud
^iiiilniped exists beyond iMf of southern latitude.
>^miuner fk)wers gkuhlen the sight of the Arctic navigator
itlic most northern lauds yet reached; but uo jdaut of any
Kn-iption — not even a ntoss or a lichen— has been observecl
•voii,] (.\ickburn Isliind in (5 1° 12' S. hit.; and while rveii
"^I'itzbergen vegetatiou ascends the niouutaiu slopes t«.» a
It H
46G
TIIK rOLAR WOFvLD.
lioi^^lit of 0,000 feet tlu? snow line descends to tlio Avatei\
edj^v in eA^ery linid within or near the Antarctic Circle.
An open sea, extendinj^ towards the northern pole as far
as the eye can reach, points out the path to fnture dis-
covery ; but the Antarctic nuvif^at(jrs, with one sing-le excep-
tion, have invariably seen their i)ro<,'ress arrested by barriers
of ice, and none have ever penetrated beyond the conipiira-
tively low latitude of 78° 10'.
Even in Spitzberj^^en and East Greenland, Scoresby soiiio-
tinies found the heat of sunjnier verv UTeat ; but the aiiiuils
of Antarctic navigation invariably speak of a friyid tempe-
rature. In 177^), when Captain Phipps visited Spitzber;4;eii,
the thermometer once rose to +.">S^°; and on July 15, ISiiit,
Avhen the ' Hecla ' left her winter-quarters in Melville Island,
(74° 47' N.), she enjoyed a warmth of -f.")<r. But diu-iii;r
the summer months spent by Sir James Ross in the Antarctic
Polar area, the temperature of the air never once exceeded
-f 41° :/. In Nortlmmberland Sound (70° 42' N.), probably
the coldest spot hitherto visited in the noi'lh, the meanot'tln'
three sumnnT months was found to be + ;>0° 8', while Avitliiii
the Antarctic Circle it only amounted to +27° 'V.
The reader may possibly wonder why the climate of tin'
southern polar reijiions is so much more severe than that itf
the liij^-h northern Lititudes ; or why coasts and valleys, a*
equal distances from the equator, should in one case be found
green with vegetation, and in another mere Avastes of siioff
and ice ; but the predominance of land in the north, and if
sea in the south, fully ansv/ers the question. Witliiii the
Arctic Circle we see vast continental masses projecting fartn
the north, so as to form an almost continuous belt round tluj
icy sea ; while in the southern hemisphere, the contiiieiitsj
taper down in a vast extent of open ocean. In the iioitlij
the plains of Siberia and of the Hudson's Bay territories
warmed by the sunbeams of summer, become at that se;is"i
centres of radiating heat, so that in many parts the "Towtljl
of forests, or even the culture of the cereals, advances a^
high as 70° of latitude ; while the Antarctic lands iw i
a comparatively small extent, and isolated in tlio wk>t
of frigid waters, whose temperature scarcely vaiics fr'iil
-j- 29° 2' even in the height (jf summer. Mostly sitnat'i
ANTARCTIC ICEDFiriflS.
4G7
us t'llV
excep-
)nii>;>vii-
)y some-
l\ tompe-
le IsV.vnd,
lit duviiv^'
exceeded
I, probably
leau of till'
Uilc ^vitl^l>
ato of til'"
laii f^^'^^ *'*
vaUeys. a'
ise be fouu'l
es of siK'W
;,Yt\u and"l'|
I^VUbin tlio
It round til''
n tbe ixntlii
Iv' tevrituvif
that soa^"
tlu' liV"^'''^
advances a:
\iM\<\^ ••'^■'';"
in the
vav'u
witliin the Antarctic Circle, and constantly diilloci by cold
sL-a- winds, they act at every season as relriyerators of the
iitniospliere.
Ill the north, the formation of iceberg's is confined to a few
iiittuntainons countries, such as the west coast of Greenland
or -Spitzberj^^en ; but the Antarctic coast-lands L^enerally tower
to a considerable height above the level of the sea, and the
vast fra<jrnients, which are constantly detachinj^- themselves
from their o;laciers, keep ni> the low temperature of the seas.
In the north, the cold currents of the Polar Ocean, Avith
their drift-ice and bero-s, have but the two wide «^ates of the
Greenland Sea and Davis' Strait throuo-h which they can
emerge to the south, so that their influence is confined within
comparatively narrow limits, while the yolid streams of the
Antarctic seas branch out freely on all sides, and convey
their floating- ice-masses far and Avide within the teujperate
seas. It is oidy to the west of Newfoundland that sing-le
iLt'ljero-s have ever been knoAvn to descend as low as '"]J)° of
latitude ; but in the southern hemisphere tliey have been met
with in the vicinity of the Cape of Ciood Hope ('j5° S. lat.),
mar Tristan d'Acuidui, opposite to the mouth of the Rio de
la Plata, and within a hundred leagues of Tasmania. In the
north, finally, we tiud the g-ulf stream conveying warmth
iwu to the shores of Spit/.bergen and NovayaZemlya ; while
ill the <»[tposite regions of the gh»be, no traces of warm cur-
iviits have been observed beyond 55" of latitude.
Thus the predominance of vast tracts of flat land in the
i«in'!il hemisphere, and of an imnu'use expanse of ocean in
till' Antarctic regions, sulKciently accounts for the {cstival
Karnith of the former, and the comparativi'ly low summer
tmipcrature of the latter.
It is unnecessary to describe in detail each of the desolate
lauds which modern navigators have discovered among the
I Antarctic ice-lields, but it may not be uninteresting to c(»m-
110 one or two of these dreary wastes with the lands of the
I' '!'th, situated in analogous latitudes.
Thr New Shetland Islands, situated between Ol" and (>']"
l"f southern latitude, were originally discovered by Dijx'k
rWritz — a Dutch navigator — who, in attempting; to round
II II 2
4G8
THE rOLAR WORLD.
Cape Horn, was carriocl by tempestuous weatlior "witliin sicj-lii
of their mountainous coasts. Long for^i^otten, they wimv
re-discovered in 1819 by Mr. Smith, a master in tlie roval
navy — whom a storm had like-vise carried thither — and in
the following year more accurately examined by Edwiiid
Bransfield, Avhose name survives in the strait which separates
them from D'Urville's Louis Philippe Land.
In 1821), the ' Chanticleer,' Captain Forster, was sent to
New Shetland for the purpose of making magnetic and
other physical observations, and remained for several liionths
at Deception Island, which Avas selected .as a station iVom
its affording the best harbour in South Shetland.
Though these islands are situated at about the same dis-
tance from the pole as the Faroe Islands which boast of
numerous flocks of sheep, and where the sea never freezes,
yet, when the 'Chanticleer' approached Deception Island, on
January 5 (a month corresponding to our July), so many ice-
bergs were scattered about, that Forster counted at one tinit.'
no fewer than eighty-one. A gale having arisen, accom-
panied by a thick fog, great care was needed to avoid run-
ning foul of these floating cliffs. After entering the harbour.
— a work of no slight difficulty, from the violence of theAvinl
— the fogs were so frequent that, for the first ten dav>.
neither sun nor stars were seen ; and it was withal so raw
and cold, that Lieutenant Kendal, to whom we owe a short
narrative of the expedition, did not recollect having suften
more at any time in the Arctic regions, even at the lowest |
range of the thermometer. In this desolate land, frozer
water becomes an integral portion of the soil ; for tlii-
volcanic island is composed chiefly of alternate layers vi
ashes and ice, as if the snow of each Avinter, during a series]
of years, had been prevented from melting in the following':
summer, by the ejection of ""inders and ashes from soiii'V
part where volcanic action still goes on. Early in Manlii
(the September of the north) the freezing over of the covi',]
in which the ship was secured, gave warning that it wii:
high time for her to quit this desolate port. With nun
difliculty and severe labour, from the fury of the gales, tluj
managed to get away, and Ave may fully credit Lieutenaiil
KeiKluFs assertion, that it was a day of rejoicing to iil
tlie cle;
>a'iiL's
fill' lloi-]
'•tt'rf.s ill
>ll(i\v.
SOUTH GEORGIA.
4G9
ime dis-
boast of
: ireezes.
sVan*^, on
nany ici'-
one time
1, accom-
tvoid nui-
chavljouv.
,f tliOAvin'^
ten day^-
iial sf' ^"•>^^'
[vo a sli'^i'^
Itho lowt'st
[nd, frozen
. iov tlu>
layers ';'f
|ng a series
ie''followiiv:
from soino
IV in l^I^Arelij
[of the cove,]
Aiat it ^^•';
o-ale^. tlu
Lieut eiiaiij
licing t" ''
(111 V)oanl wlien tlio slioros of Deception faded from tlieir
view.
Jn 1775, Cook, on liis second voyai^-e, discovered the larj^o
island of Sinitli Geor^aa, situated in latitude 51° and 55°, a
situation coi'respondino- to that of Scarborougli or Durham.
But what a dilterenee in the climate, for ' we saw not a river
or stream of water,' says the threat navi^-ator, * on all the
coast of Geor(,na. The head of the bay, as well as two places
uii each side, was terminated by perpendicular iceberj^s of
ioiisi<lerable heij»;ht. Pieces were continually breakin*^ off
and lloatin*^ out to sea, and a great fall happened while we
were in the bay, Avhich made a noise like a cannon. The
inner parts of the country were not less savage and horrible.
Tiie wild rocks raised their lofty summits till they were lost
in the clouds, and the valley lay covered with everlasting- snow.
Not a tree was to be seen, not a shrub even big enough to
make a toothpick. The only vegetation was a coarse strong-
Maded grass growing in tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like
iiidss, which sprang from the rocks. The lands, or rather
r<)('ks, bordering on the sea-coast were not covered with snow
like the inland parts, but all the vegetation we could see on
the clear places was the grass above mentioned.' To find
scenes of a similar Avintry desolation, we must travel in
the north as far as Novaya Zemlya or Spitzbergen, which are
2it' or 21° nearer to the pole !
Thus the influence of the cold Antarctic waters extends
far Avithin the temperate zone. We can trace their chilling
fft'C'ls in Kerguelen Land (50° S. hit.), which, when visited
i'\ Cdok in the heiu'ht of summer, was found covered with
>unw, and where only five phmts in fhnver were collected ; in
Tiirra del Fuego (53° S. lat.), where the mean summer tem-
h'lature is fully ()i° lower than that of Dublin (5:}° 21' N. lat.) ;
in the Falkland Islands (51° oO'), which, though flat and low
ami near Patagonia, have, according to Mr. Darwin, a climate
Muilai- to that which is experienced at the height of between
lie and two thousand feet on the mountains of North Wales,
«iih less sunshine and less frost, but more wind and rain ;
iii'Hlnally along the south-Avest coast of America, where the
^'■I'uvian current and the cold sea-winds so considerably de-
ii'ess the snow-line, that while in Europe the most southern
470
Tlir, POLAK WORLD.
glacier wliieh coinos down to tho soa is met with, accovdiiia
to Von Bueh, on the coast of Norway in hit. (57° ; the ' Jh'uljIc '
fiunul a ^'lacier 15 miles long and in one part 7 miles bioad
descendiiit; to the sea-coast, in the gulf of Penas, in a lati-
tude (40° 50') nearly corresponding- with that of the Lake ef
Geneva.
' The position of this glacier,' siiys Mr. Darwin, 'may Lc
pnt even in a more striking point of view, for it descends \,,
the sea-coast within less than 0° from where palms gi-ow :
within 44° of a region where the jaguar and puma raiifrc
over the plains, less than 2^° from arhorescent grasses, and
(looking to the Avestward in tlu,' same hemisphere) less tliaii
2° from orchideous parasites, and within a single degree ef
tree-ferns!' ..i Lho inlluence of the tropical gulf stream
reaches as far us ^■) ')ergen, so that of the cold Peruvian
stream, which issues from the Antarctic Seas, extends <'veu to
the ecpiator, and n-.t sekUuu reduces the temiierature of'tlic
waters about the Galapagos t'> less than-f 5S^°, so that ]vet-
building corals, which require a minimum warmth of+Gir.
are unable to grow near islands situated directly under tln'
line.
Though the Antarctic lands are so bleak and inckniuiit
that not a single quadruped is to be found within dO" nf
latitude, yet they are tho resort of innumerable sea-biras
which, belonging to the same families as those of the nertli,
generally form distinct genera or species, for witli raiv
exceptions no bird is found to inhabit both the Arctic iiml
the Antarctic regions.
Thus in the petrel family avo find the fulmar {Pi-oci'Vurl'i
glaclalin) and the glacial petrel (P. (jcliihi) <jf the high nurtlij
represented in the Antarctic Seas by the giant petrel {I'mfil-
hiria (jiijiodcd)^ which extends its flight from Patageiiia tn
the ice-banks of the south, wdiere the Antarctic and tlie
snowy petrels {l\ (nddrch'i-a ef nivea) first appear, cold-lovim;
birds which never leave those dreary waters, and are oltcuj
seen in vast flocks floating upon the drift-ice.
The giant petrel, which has received from the Spaniiii'iUj
the sigiiilicaiit appellation of ' <ii(i'ln'i(uf(i Inicson," ov Mariiki
bones,' is a more poweivful bird than the fulmar. It is lari;
than a y-oose, with a strong beak 1.', inches Ioul;". Us e"Ii'i"!
IS a
JieeJv
ivseii
Jiiay
ii'etls,
fit' se;
Vnri ^
'JJeaLi'
roo <
' ly i.s
•iM
' " II
i\i
riONULINS.
471
O
VOlltl
lati-
ay Vn'
lids t<t
•I row ;
?s, and
5S tliau
n
strcum
'oriiviivn
lid ret'f-
ikVv til''
ueloun'iit
[ill (■)**' "^'
\ve iiort^>i
,vith i"uv
Irctic uiv
|u»j;U novtli
lei (/''■'"■''■
|tan'(Uiia i>'
L and tW
K.ld-lovwi
are oft'^n!
lev 'bn-alv
lit is V.ivi''
is a dirty black, white below, and with white spots on the
neck and baek. In its habits and manner oftii^-ht it closely
ivsenibU'S the albatross, and, as with tlie albatross, a spectator
may watch it for hours together without seeinjj^ on what it
foods. Like the f nlinar it feasts npon fishes, or the carcases
uf seals and cetaceans, but it also chases other binls. At
Pdit .Saint Antonio it was seen by sonu; of the officers of tlio
'Bca^'le' pursuini^- a diver, whieh tried to escai»c by divinfjf
1111(1 flying", but was continually struek down, and at last
killed by a blow on its head. Such is its voracity that it
dues not even spare its own kind, for a^'i^-antic petrel havin<^
lii'eii badly wounded by a sh(»t from the 'Terror,' and fallin<(
at too ^reat a distanee for a boat to be sent after it, was ini-
iiK'diately attacked by two others of the same kind, and torn
to pieces. It is a common bird both in the open sea and iji
tlu' iidanJ channels of Tierra del FueL>"o, and the south-west
coast of America.
The wanderinj4' albatross {Diomcili'n mihius), elosely allied
til tlie petrels and rivalling' the condor in size and streno-th
iifwiiio-, may truly 1)e ranked among* the Antarctic birds, as it
is seldom seen in a lower latitude than .'}<j°, and increases in
imnibers towards the south. Freyssinet saw it most frecpiently
k'tueen 55° and 5i)° S. lat., and it probably knows no other
limits than those of the Polar ice. It is found in every
lULTidian of this enormous zone, but the regions of storms —
the Cape of Good Hope and (/ape Horn — are its favourite
iv'sorts. Here it may frecpiently be seen in the full majesty
"fits flight.
The auks of the northern hemisphere are represented, in
tk' austral regions, by the penguins, who, as Buff'on remarks,
are the least bird-like of all birds. Their small wing-
>tmnps, covered with short rigid scale-liki' feathers, are
altoo'etlier incapable of raising the body in the air. but serve
iijiiiliiiirable paddles in the water, and on land as fore-fe<.'t,
^^ith whose help they so alertly seale the grassy elifls,
"liat they might easily be mistaken for quadrupeds. Tlieir
'"'■t. like those of the auks, are place<l so far back that the
""ly is (piite u[)right when the bird is standing on the
■;i"Uiiil. a position which renders tlieir gait uncommonly
l''"^v and awkward, but greatly facilitates their movements
472
TIIK POI.AK WORLD.
B^l'^^
in the wtiter. Wlion at sea and fishing-, tlio pon^-nin coiiu'S
to tlio snrfucc for tlio purpose of broatliinj^ with such a spriiiij,
and dives ag-ain so iustaiitaneonsly, tliat at first siglit no one
can be sure that it is not a fish leaping* for sport. Other sea-
birds generally keep a considerable part of their body out of
the water while swimming, but this is not the case with the
penguin, whose head alone appears above the surface, and
thus rowing at the same time with its wings and feet, it
swims so quicldy that many fishes would fail to keep up with
it. Sir James Ross once saAV two penguins paddling away
a thousand miles from the nearest laml. Protected agninst
the cold by a thick layer of fat and a warm great-cont of
feathers it remains for months on the high seas, and seeks
land only in the summer for the purpose of breeding. At tliis
time it is found in vast numbers on the Falkland Islands,
Kerguelen's Land, New Shetland, or wherever in the Antarc-
tic Seas, perhaps even to the Pole itself, a convenient coast
invites its stay. On Possession Island, for instance, a
desolate rock, discovered by Sir James Ross in lat. 71° oG',
myriads of penguins covered the whole surfiice of the huul,
along the ledges of the precipices, and even to the summit
of the hills. Undaunted by the presence of beings whom
they had never seen before, the birds vigorously at- ^
tacked the British seamen as they waded through their
ranks, and pecked at them with their sharp beaks, a recep-
tion which, together with their loud coarse notes, and tho
insupportable stench of their guano, made our countrymoii i
but too happy to depart, after having loaded their boat with
geological specimens and penguins. There are several S2)ecie3 1
of this singular bird. The largest and rarest {Apfc)(Oihjks\
Forsteri) is generally found singly, while the smaller species |
always associate in vast numbers. Several were cauglit ia^
lat. 77° by Sir James Ross and brought on board alive ; indeedl
it was a very difficult and a cruel operation to kill theiii,|
until hydrocyanic acid was resorted to, of which a table-i
spoonful effectually accomplished the purpose in h'ss tlinal
a minute. These enormous birds varied in weight I'n'Ui
sixty to seventy-five pounds. They are remarkably stiijii'V;
and allow a man to approach them so near as to strike \hm
on the head with a l»ludgeon, and sometimes, if knockc'l ttl
AUSTRAL WHALES.
473
ft-
•*■**
\ COlllfS
t 1M) one
lier st'ii-
witli thf
faco, iiutl
a tVoi, it
p upAvith
in«^- iuvay
id ugiiinst
lat-coiit dl"
and seeks
T. At this
id Isliimls,
lio Antarc- i
niont coiist
[iistuiK-e, a
,at. 71^ ••'• •
,f tlie liina.
\vc sumwit
l->illo-S AVllOlU
»rously iit-
'ougli tlu'iv
[ivs, a veo'V-
;CS, ini«l till'
couutvyiiu'U
a- boat wuli
|veral spo^i''^
jailer specie
•c canglit in
Jive ; iu(leell
;o kill thoiu ^
icli a table-!
in loss tkna;'
Kveio-lit iVov ^
l^ablv ^^
strike tli'.'i
kiK)cke«l u
the iee into the water, tliej will almost ininiotliately leap npon
it ii<4iiin as if ea{»'er for a fi<?ht, tlion«,'h witliont the smallest
means either of offence or defence. They were first dis-
covered diiriny;' Captain Cook's voyage to the Antarctic
re^'ions, Lnt Sir James Ross was f'ortnnate in brin^-ing the
tirst perfect specimens to England, some of which Avere pre-
served entire in easlcs of strong pickle, that the physiologist
and comparative anatomist might have an opportunity of
thoroughly examining their structure. The principal food of
the great penguin consists of various species of crustaceous
animals, and in its stomach are frequently found from tAvo
to ten pounds' weight of pebbles, swallowed no doubt to
[U'oiiiote digestion. ' Its capture,' says Sir James Ross,
' afforded great amusement to our people, for when alarmed
and endeavouring to escape, it makes its way over deep
snow faster than they could follow it : by lying down on
its belly and impelling itself by its powerful feet, it slides
along upon the surface of the snow at a great pace, steady^
iiig itself by extending its fin-like wings, which alternately
toneli the ground on the side opposite to the propelling
len-.'
Thougli the Antarctic Seas possess neither the narwhal nor
tlie morse, they abound, perhaps even more than the Arctic
waters, in whales, dolphins, and seals, at least in the higher
latitudes.
The austral smooth-backed whale [Bakvna (uistndis) differs
from his Greenland relative in many respects : the head
is comparatively smaller, being only about one-fourth of
the total length, the mouth is broader, the baleen shorter,
the j^ectoral fins are larger and pointed, and the colour
is almost totally black, the white on the lower surface
being confined to a small part of the abdomen. The skull
is also differently formed, and while the Greenland whale
luis only thirteen pairs of ribs, the austral smooth-back has
llfteen.
Aecordino' to Mr. Bennett the austral smooth-back seldom
attains a greater length than fifty feet, but as it yields on an
uveraL;-o from eighty to ninety barrels of oil, its capture amply
rewards the whaler's trouble. Though met with in the
liigliest latitudes, and roaming over the whole extent of the
474
TIIK I'OLAIl WDIILI).
Antarctic Sous, it TO.S(^>rt.s in spring' io llio slicHcrcd 1)iivs
of New Zciilaiid, Anstriilia, Kcrj^-iiclcn's IjiukI, Chili, (Ii..
Falkland Islands, Alu'oii Biiy, Sec, fur flic pnr[»<>s(' of hrinuiiii,'
forth its youiiy. Tiiis of course makes its capture ensirr,
but must at the same time lead to its extiri)ati<)n, or drivf it
to the most inaccessible regions of llie Polar ()c<'aii. Hvin
now the whale lisheiy of the southern seas, which 1\vriil\-
or thirty y<'ars a<>'o eni2)loyed hundreds of vessels, has inurli
diminished in importance: it is chielly carried on l)y llic
Americans, the French, and our Australian colonies, which
1 LiiiS lluus
I, i!i'r;;neici;'3 Lantl.
have the advantage of being- more conveniently situated than
the mother country.
In the hi;4-her latitudes of the Antarctic zone the Inuicli-
back and tin-back whales abound ; but as the foriiicr i<
meag-re and hardly worth the boiling, and the latter, like the
ror(]ualsof the north, dives with such rapidity that he snaps
the harpoim line or drag's the boat along- with him into tin'
water, they are seldom hunted. Hence they will nutst lil<i'h
continue to prosper in their native seas, unless the inntioVLil
missiles recently introduced in the whale tishery can 'n'
nuule to conquer theiu. The hunch-l)ack is distiugui.sln'il '',
ANTARCTIC CI'.TACHANS.
475
r.iys
til.!
ivt' U
Evi'U
vcnty
lUUcll
y Uw
i-^i
litrA tlian |
u> huufli-
t'ovuu'V i- J
, like til'
he siiav> I
I int.' til''
liost likt'ly
inipv.'VO'l
Iv can I"'
uisli.'<l'')-
tlic gi'ot't loiig'tli of Ills [x'ctoral fins, wliioli oxtt'iul to full
I'i^litooii feet, wliilo theso oroaus iirc comparatively small in
tilt! Hn-back. A kind of l)n>a<l-nosod whalo likewise makea
its apjiearanee in the Antarctic Seas, but it is not yet ile-
ti'iiiiined wlietlier all these fin-l)a<'ked whales of the south
are distinct species from those of the Arctic waters. A cir-
cumstance "Nvhich seems to speak for their identity is that
tin-backs are mot with in the intervening,^ temperate and
tropical seas, so that no limits a[>pear to have been set to
their excursions.
The sperm whale or cachalot, thoui^h partial to tho
equinoctial ocean, is also found in tho cold Antarctic
waters. It was met with b^- 8ir James Ross anion<,^ tho
icebergs in (J:}" 20' S. lat. ; and near Possi'ssion Island
(71° 50' S. hit.), where the hunch-backs were so abundant
that thirty wero counted at one time in various directions,
and durin<«' the whole day wherever the eyes turned, their
blasts were to be seen. A few sperm whales were also dis-
tin<;'uished among them by their peculiar manner of blowin<^
or s[)outino;.
Amon<^ the dolphins of the Antarctic Ocean we find a species
(ifgTampus no less formidable and voracious than that of the
northern seas. On Jannary 20, 18 lO, the American ship
'Peacock,' while cruisino- in the Antarctic waters, witnessed a
nnifiict between one of them and a whale. The sea was i)er-
iatly smooth, so that the whole combat could be distinctly
Seen. At first the whale was perceived at some distance from
the sliip lashino- the water into foam and apparently nnikiny^
'lesperato efforts to shake off some invisible enemy. On ap-
liri)achin<jf they found that an enormous gramjjushad seized it
witli its jaws. The whale vainly tiu'ued and twisted itself in
'Very direction, and its blood tinj^vd the water far around. The
.'nuHpus had evidently the advanta^-e, and the other whales,
"f which there were many in sig'ht, instead of assistini^^' their
"•mrade, seemed only intent on their own safety. Tho
21'ampus had a brown back, a. white abdonu'u, and a lar^-e
"11 on its back. The speed at which the monstrous animals
'Vit through the Avater prevented the Americans from wit-
'"^siiig the issne of tin' fight. The classical dolphin of the
47G
Tin; I'oLAii Would.
aucionts has bocii soon near tlio Cape of (Joud Hu)..', aii.l
most likely waiuk'i'.s far to the south as lie is provt'i'liiiil lur
his arrow-like rapidity, and can easily traverse a ('oiiplc nt
liiiiidred miles iii a siii^'le day. In the Strait of M;i;fclliiii
and about ('aj»e Jlorn are frecniently seen the l)< Ijt/iitnin skji, ,-
(•iln>si(n, whose turne(l-u[) jnouth-corners <^ive his couiift n-
aiiee a peculiarly beni'voient and friendly expression, hclird
by his ravenous propensities, and the I>t'li>/iitiiifi liurordiiijilnis^
who, like the bjeluo-a of the north, has no dorsal tin, and liv
the liveliness of his movements emulates thocdassicaldulpliin
of the Mediteri'anean.
The seal family plays a no less important [»art in the zod-
lo<]fy of the Antarctic Seas than in that of the northern wati-rs.
Hero wo iind the monstrous sea-elephant {Mavr<>rliiitii.< ,1,.
pJudifinuK), so called not only iVom his si/e attaining- a Irn^th
of twenty-five feet, and a oirth at the larj^vst part of iho
body of from fifteen to ei|^diteen, but also from the siii^ular
structure of his elony;ated nostrils, which han;^- down winii
he is in a state of repose, but swell out to a proboscis a font
lono- when he is enraged. This gives the animal a. very i'ny.
midable appearance, which along with his bellowing and his
widely-gaping jaAvs armed with tusk-like canines, might sfiike
terror into the boldest heart. But in reality the sea elepluiiit
is a most defenceless creature, for on land it moves its un-
wieldy carcase with the utmost difliculty, and a single blow
upon the snout Avith a club suffices to stretch it lifeless un the
•'•round. It used to be met with in considerable number^ on a!!
the Hat shores or islands between o-")" and 02° S. lat., but as it
yields a large quantity of excellent oil, and as its skin, thoiiL'ii j
merely covered with thick short bristles, isof some value I'n 'in .)
its great strength and thickness, incessant persecution li:is
greatly thinned its ranks, and in some parts extirpated it,
Thus Sir James Ross relates that the sea-elephant and sovonil
other species of seals, which were formerly in great abuiulaiioo
at KergUiden'sLand, annually drew a number of fishing-vc--
selsto its shores. But at the time of his visit (1810),ul'torso
many years of slaughter, they had quite deserted the place
The flesh of the sea-elephant is black and of an oily ta^te,
but Anson and his companions, after having been tossed abmit
for several months on a tempestuous sea and reduced to giviit
ANTARCTIC SKALS.
477
, llU'l
,il l'"V
[lie <it'
;-('\l;>n
Hiiin i'-
AUtfU-
•a \.'U-tU
ft oV t^>^
I, very I'ov-
in; uu*l lii!*
io-lit strike
OS Us \w-
distress by scurvy, rt'llslu'd it ut Jimii Feruamloz. The
tun;,'U(» is said to bo a f^'roat delicacy.
As tin' soft jct-bliick I'lii' of the youupf southern sea-benv
[Airfocfj)li(tlii>* /((Ichoulicux) is no less valuable than that of its
northern relative, the eaf;;erness with which it is ptirsned may
(.'iisily bo inia^'ined. Formerly vast lan-ds of sea-ljcars used
to sort every summer to the Now Shetland Islands, but
soo' ' n* tho re-discovery of the <,'ronp the American and
Kii^.-...i sealers made their ajipearance on its desolate shores,
and in the short time of four years exliri>ated the ursine seals,
thus destroyin^jf by wasteful destruction what miyht havo
biTii a pernument source of profit.
The southern sea-lion {Otaria julxthi) is a lar<jjer aninnil
tliiiii his northern namesake, and while tho latter is fur-
nished only with an erect and curly hair-tuft at tho nock, a
iiiiiipleto mane flows round his breast. Tho remainder of
the tawny body is covered with short smooth hairs or bristles.
The sea-lioness, who is nmch smaller than her mate, has no
iiiiuie, and, as she is of a darker colour and has a diiferently
>liape' ead, is frequently mistaken for another species, and
(iille( f or Inho by the inliabitiints of the south-western
Miiist ot America. The fore-flippers of the sea-lion have the
appearance of lar<j;'0 pieces of black tou^-h leather, showiny-,
instead of nails, slin-lit horny elevations; the hind-lins, which
avo likewise black, have a closer resendjlance to feet, aiid tlu»
live toes aro furnished with small nails. It is a formida1)le
looking" beast, particularly when full g-rowu to a len<^'th of
ten feet and more. Tho sea-leopard [Le^ifonux WethhllH),
which owes its name to its spotted skin, is peculiar to the
^'lUtliern seas. This large seal is from eight to uine feet
V'n^', the hind feet have no nails, and greatly resemble the
tail of a fish.
The Antarctic seals, dcdphins, and petrels cliiefly prey upon
1 ;i .renus of fisli discovered at Kergnelen's Land, and named
iXotothenia, by Dr. Eicliardson. These fish, which are of an
•■l(m<'-ated eel-like shape, conceal themselves from the perse-
'iitions of their enemies in the small cracks and cavities of
ilio [liick-ice, and wore frequently noticed by Sir James Ross,
hheii driven from shelter by the sliip as it struck and passed
'-'V'T their protecting pieces of ice. They, in their turn, live
478
THE POLAR WORLD,
upon the smaller cancri and liniacina}, and tlioso an-ain iipnn
creatures of a still more diminutive size, until iinally tlic
chain of created beia<^s terminates in the diatoms,* wliicli
are found illlin<f these seas with the minutest forms ot
oru'anio
life,
* ' Tlic Sea and its Living W(.>nJiTs,' p. 10:5.
'SNf--
tpenii Whale.
Mount l.ai.to.
CHAPTER XXXVir.
AXTAIUn'lC VOYAGES OF DISCOVERY,
I'oi,
1)
I.SOiiVOl'lcS 111 tl
Aiitar.'ti.' i)
(■(Mil
I'cllillL'llMUScll — W(
IV Diiniont irrrvillo — ^^'ilk^■^
.1;
\oss crosMs
Icll — l)isooe-
(lic Aiitarcti
Cir.lc
Xi'W Vi'jir's I)mv. 1811 — Discovers \'ii'f(iriii Land — Daiifj^crDUs Laiiilinu;
' rank nil
Island —An I'li'iipl
it' Mounl l'",ril)iis -Tlic ( ircat Ice nii!'ri(
I'l'Dvidiiiliiil Mscapc— Dnadl'ul (ialc-C
Um:
irdou-
I'as
issa'ff
Int
\vi.'(.n
led,
■'l\ri
iiiiial uni of
tho V
T)i:i\:)RE Cook, no iiavi--ator had left Europe with the
i' cloav desii^'ii of peuetratiiiin' into tho Antarctic rc<^i(jus.
I'irk tiherit/., indeed, had been driven hy a fuiious storiu fur
■" llie south of Cape Horn, and hecanu' tlic involuntary dis-
"Vcrer of the New Shi'tland Islands in IdOO; but his voya^'o
'vas soon for<>'otten, and in an agv where the love of <^"<>ld or
till' desire of conquest were the sole promoters of maritime
■'itorjirise, no mariner felt inclined to i'ollow on his Irack. and
' phm^'O into a sea where, most pr<>l)ably, he would lind
"tliiiio- hut ice-fields and icelx'rys t<> reward his elforts.
^'iiily two centuries later, a nmre scientific ay^o directed its
■itU'iition to the unknuwn reu'ions of the distant south, and
480
TlIK rOLAR WORLD.
Cook sailed forth to probe the secrets of tlio Antarctic Seas.
This dan<^erous task he executed with an intrepidity un-
paralleled in the annals of navigation. Beyond OO"" (if
southern latitude, he cruised over a space of more than lOlV'
of longitude, and on January :><), 1771-, penetrated as far as
71° of southern latitude, "where he was stopped by inipeiic-
trable masses of ice. Such were the difticulties encoinitercd
from dense fogs, snow-storms, intense cold, and everytliino-
that can render navigation dangerous, that in his opinion
the lands situated to the southward of his discoveries must
for ever remain unknown.
Again, for many a year, no one attempted to enter a field
where the most celebrated of modern mariners had fonnd
but a few desert islands (South Georgia, Sandwich's Land,
Southern Thule) until Smith's casual re-discovery of Ntnv
South Shetland in 1819 once more turned the current of
maritime exploration to the Antarctic Seas.
Soon afterwards a Russian expedition under LazarefF and
Bellinghausen discovered (January, 1821), in G9° 8' S. lat.,
the islands Paul the First and Alexander, the most southern
lands that had ever been visited by man.
The year after, Captain "Weddell, a sealer, penetrated into
the icy ocean as far as 74° 15' S. lat., 8° nearer to the Pole
than had been attained by Cook. The sea lay invitingly
open, but as the season was far advanced, and Weddell
apprehended the dangers of the return voyage, he steered
again to the north.
In 1881 Biscoe discovered Enderbv Land, and soon after-
wards Graham's Land, to which the gratitude of geographers
has since given the discoverer's name. In 1830, Ball(?m
revealed the existence of the group of islands called after
him, and of Sabrina Land (69° S. lat.). About the same
time, three considerable exi:»editions fitted out by the govorii-
ments of France, the United States, and England, made tlieir
ai)pearance in the Antarctic Seas.
Duiuont d'Urville discovered Terre Louis Philippe ((!•')' :)rj
S. lat.) in February, 18:58, and Terre Adelie (00° 07' S. lat.)oii|
January 21, 1810. Almost on the same day, Wilkes, the cuiii-
niandcr of the United States Exploring Expedition, roacli^l
an ice-bound coast, which he followed for a length of 1.''""
Jliof
iil
palnj
trntc'^
land 1
On
Clui-Ic
arctic
'•"'eaJcij]
-1 clear
irere so
!iii 1 ha;
Ot^.ii'iiU tc
'"fty J»et
toivai-ds i
^'mxKl coa
I'^'itlie 1110
|:ifiiJ]j- ci
pMiintaiii
P'.st aiixic
(car Qvny
■■»'wl ii-oj
l^aiulretl ib
■•■ ^-^^ney^
[^'"'s usua,I
'^'t.i ur,
l\
^"oi-\ver)'i
iV(jnred
■^'■'"^''l on j
^"' ^^■■•'.v tol
"■J'ieJi ,j
ROSS IN TllK ANTARCTIC t'llit'LE.
•181
'tis.
' of
V US
)ene-
tovod
t\un<j;
)iuitm
i must
a field
fo\md
5 Laud,
of l^ew
L'rent of
ireff and
' S. Vat.,
sovithcvn
■ated into
tlio Pole
,uvitin?;ly
^Veddell
.e steered
loon after-
[otvvapl^ev^
IValleny
tvUod at'tev
tllO SiUUO
he o;ovevn-
Luletkiv
pe it>'> ■^'
Vs.lat.U^"
milos, aiul wliieli has betMi called Wilkes' Land, to comme-
luonite the discoverer's name.
But of all the explorers of the S(»utheru froaen ocean, the
piihu unquestionably belongs to Sir James Koss, wlio pene-
trated farther towards the Pole than any other navi<^-ator
l)i't'ore or alter, and made the only discoveries of extensive
liind within the area bounded by the Antarctic Circle.
On New Year's Day, 1811, the ' Erebus,' Captain James
Clark Ross, and the " Terror,' commanded by Francis Crozier,
who died with Franklin in the Arctic Sea, crossed the Ant-
arctic Circle, and after sustaining many severe shocks in
breaking through the pack-ice, emerged, on Janiiary 1), into
a clear sea of great extent ; but the fog and snow-showers
wc'i-e so thick, that the navigators could seldom see more
thin half a mile before them. On the following day the fog
began to disperse, and on the 1 1th, Victoria land, rising in
kifty peaks entirely covered with perennial snow, was seen
at a distance of more than one hundred miles. On steering
towards Mount Sabine, the highest mountain of the range,
atw chains of hills were seen extending to the right and
kft. After sailing for a few days to the south, along the ice-
found coast, a gale forced the ships to stand out to sea ; but
ill the morning of January 15, the weather, becoming beau-
tifully clear, allowed a full view of a inagniHcent chain of
aMuntains, stretching far away to the southward. Ross was
must anxious to find a harbour in which to seciu'e the ships,
k every indentation of the coast was found tilled with snow
rifted from the mountains, and forming a mass of ice several
Vuiidred feet thick. It was thus impossible to enter any of
'!'■ valleys or breaks in the coast where harbours in other
l^iii'ls usually occur. Yet these inhospitable sliores (72° 7o'
' bit.) are situated but one or two degrees nearer to the
^btluin Hammerfest, the seat of vn active commerce on
" Xurwegian coast.
Favoured by northerly winds and an open sea, the ships
w.lit'd, on January 22, a higher southern latitude (7 !•' 2(V S.)
11 that which had been attainetl by AVeddell. Pursuing
if way to the southward, along the edge of the pack-
Is thecrtw-
1 ' .viclirAM'^' ^^liieh now compelled them to keep at a considerable
I ' t \ :,ii'>W-^""*-'e from the coast, they came, on the 27th, within
ill ct" \-
I 1
482
TIIK rOLAR WORLD.
I ■
two or tliroe miles of a small island, coniioctecl by a vast
ice-field with the extreme point of the main land. Eiir^er to
set his foot on the most sontherly soil (70° 8' S.) he hud as
yet disi'overed, Ross left th(^ ' Erebus,' accompanied by seve-
ral olli<-ers. and followed l)y Cntzier and a party from tlic
' Terror,' [>nlled towards the shore. A high sontherly sw.-U
broke so heavily against the cliffs, and on the only piece oC
beach which they conld see as they rowed from one end
of the island to the other, as almost to forbid their lamlin^-.
By great skill and management Ross succeeded in juiiiii-
ing on t(j the rocks. By means of a rope some of I he
othcers landed somewhat more easily, bnt not without i,i-.'t-
tiiig thoroughly wetted, and one of them nearly lost his life
in this difHcult affair. The thermometer being at 22'', every
part of the rocks washed by the Avaves was covered with
a coating of ice, so that in jumping from the boat he sHp|»ed
from tluMu into the water between her stern and the almost
perpendicular rock on which his companions had laiid'il.
But for the promptitude of the men in the boat in in-
stantly pnlling off, he must have been crushed betwcLMi it
and the rock. He was taken into the boat without luiviiii; 1
suffered any other injury than being benundjed by tlio
cold.
The island, which received the name of Franklin, boiv imt
the smallest trace of vegetation, not even a lichen or piive
of sea-weed growing on the rocks ; but the wdiite petrel and
the skiia-gull had their nests on the ledges of tkc cliff's, and,
seals Avere seen sporting in the water.
The tbllowing day Avas memorable for the discovcn of |
the southernmost knoAvn land of the globe, a magnifi(ciife|
mountain chain, to Avhich the name of Parry Avas givi'ii. infel
grateful remembrance of the honour Avhich that illii:^^
trious navigator had conferred on Ross, by calling the iiiiisl
northern land at that time knoAvn by his name. Ft is iioj
often that men are abk' to reciprocafe such coinidiimnt
as these! The most conspicuous object of the cliaiii wi
Mount Erebus (77'' o' S.), an active volcano, of Avliii'li Vv
had the good fortune to witn<'ss a magnificent criii' h
The enormous I'ohimiis of (lame an<l smoke rising two ilini
sand feet above the juouth cd* the crater, Avhich is (.'I'vat
12,-
siiio
a Ul;
Mnn
hvlUi
seven
(ila
fouth,
f'orniiii
rising
Irvol.
'•jnenfl;
icwjiat
tered tJ
mt its
:''''ttiji<.- ,
I'urj'
I'ARllY S LAXI).
4«3
12,1*^0 feet above tlie level of the sea, combined, witli the
i«iinw-white mouiitjiiii-cluiin and the deep blue oeeaii, to form
;i iiiiiLjiiificoiit scene. An extiiiei A'olcano to tlie eastward of
)Ioimt Erebus, and littJ*.' iuferior in height, Ijeiiij^- by mea-
>invnient lO.DOU feet liiyli, was called 'Mount Terror.' A
In'illiant mantle of snow swe}»t down the sides of both these
^diuits of the south, and projected a perpendicular icy cliff
several milc'S into the sea.
llladly would Ross have penetrated still fui'tlier to the
south, but all his efforts were bafHed by a vast barrier of ice,
forinin^^ an uninterrupted wall, 4-')0 miles in len<Tth, and
rising- in some parts to a heiyht of 180 feet above the sea-
Itvi'l. AVhile sailing;- along- this barrier, the ships were fre-
quently obliged by the wind and the closely packed ice to
keep at a considerable distance; but on February 0, having- en-
tered the only indentation which they had perceived through-
out its whole extent, they had an excellent opportunity of
[retting- quite close to it, though at no little hazard. This bay
WHS formed by a projecting- peninsula of ice, terminated by
a cape 170 feet hig-h, but at the narrow isthmus which con-
nected it with the g-reat barrier, it was not more than fifty
feet liig-h, affording- lioss the only opportunity he had of
seeing- its upper surface from the masthead. It appeared to
be quite smooth, and conveyed to the mind the idea of an
immense plain of frosted silver. Gigantic icicles depended
iruin every projecting- point of its perpendicular cliffs, prov-
KiLl that it sometimes tliaw'ed, which otherwise could not
bve Ijeen believed, for at a season of the year equivalent to
August in England, the thermometer at noon did not rise
jiove 11°, and the yoimg ice formed so quickly in the shel-
. .,\ven. iitB-i'Ml l);iy its to warn them of the necessity of a speedy re-
\\\\\\ iUui-'S'tat. Favonred by the bn>eze, and by dint of g-reat
fci'tiun, they ultinnitely emerged from their dang'erous
I'-^ition, but scarcely had they escaped when the wind came
'iireetly ag-ainst them, so that had they ling-ered but half an
Mu- l(tug-er near the barrier they would certainly have been
i^"zeii up.
"ii February 1:} the ap})roach of winter convinced lioss
[it it was high time to relincpiish tin' further examination
till' liarrie'r to the eastward, and as no place of security
1 I 2
vast
;i"l- to
;>i\ as
seve-
u til"
swvW
leee of
le eivl
iding'.
.iniup-
of the
nit g'*-t-
his life
2% ev*'VY
ved with
le sU\>V^'*^
xG ill most ^
a lauded.
r.it in in-
between it
lit liaviu!,'
.'d by tlie
ji, ]m)\v not
,>n oi- vi^-'ee
petv*A niitl
olift's. aii>^
iiscovcvy ^
ina'iidBc'iii
U i> '"^^
tonipliinen'
chain ^v
^vhich l^"i
^,t ci-uvti'*'
two ill"'
is el''
v;i'
484
Till': roLAIl WOULD.
wliero it was possible to winter could be found upon niiv
part of the land liitherto discovered, he reluctiintly n'solvt-l
to recross the Antarctic Circle, and postpone all attempts in
reach the Pole to the next season. The return vtniiuc was
difficult and dauj^-erous. On March 7, the ships, while rii-
deavonring- to iiud a way thron;j;'h tlie pack-ice in lat. (!-V,
had a narrow escape from inuninent destruction. The whul
haviny ceased, they found themselves at the mercy of u
heavy easterly swell, which was <lrivin<^- them down u]i(,ii
the pack, in which were ctmnted from the masthead eiglitv-
four larj^-e berys, and some hundreds of smaller size. As
they rapidly approached this formidable chain, no opcuii)!^'
could be discovered throu<>-h which the ships could pass ; tlio
waves were beatinj^- violently against the berg-s, and dashinir
huge masses of ])ack-ice ag'ainst their i)recipitous faces, now
lifting- them nearly to their summit, then forcing theinai>iiiii
far beneath their water line, and sonu^times rending thcin in
a multitude of brilliant fragments ag-ainst their proj('ctiii;f
points. 'Sublime and nuignilicent,' says Eoss,''^' 'as sik.Ii a
scene nmst have appeared under ditt'erent circumstances, to
us it was awful, if not appalling". For eight hoiu's we liad
been gradually drifting- towards what to human eyes a}!-
peared inevitable destruction ; the high Avaves and deep roll-
ing- of our ships rendered towing with the boats impf>,>silik',
and our situation the more painful and embarrassing fremj
our inability to nuike any effort to avoid the dreadful calii
mity that seemed to await us We were imw?
within half a mile of the rang-e of bergs. The roar of tli(
surf, which extended each way as far as we could sec, an
the crashing of the ice, fell upon the ear with fearful disi
tinctness, whilst the frequently averted eye as innneJiati
returned to contemplate the awful destruction that tlimii
ened in one short hour to close the world, and all its Iiejie
and joys, and sorrows upon us for ever. In this our diyj
distress "we called upon the Lord, and He heard our veil
out of His temple, and our cry came before Him." A ^■•eutl
air of wind filled our sails ; hope ag-ain revived, and t!
greatest activity prevailed to make the best use of the tab]
* ' Voyagu to tlif Siiuflicrn Sims,' vol. i. ji. 282.
'^"' several
l^'-'tlicMvest
'^liich the
j'!i;itter an;
pfilwith"
IJowiiig dj
' cni)pled
STORMS AXl) IWCK-K'K.
48.'
iiss; till'
kct'zo; as it i,n'a(lually fresliono*!, our lioavy sliij^s l)\!4'an to
feel its iutlnoiu'o, slowly at first, but mow rapidly after-
wards, aud before dark we found ourselves far removed I'roui
every daujjfer.'
After passiu<]f the winter at Ilobarton, the capit.il of Tas-
mania, Sir James Ross, in tlio foliowiufjc year, once more
crossed the Antarctic Circle to examine the icy barrier which
ill liis previous voya<^^e had blocked his pi-oo-ress to the
jiiuth, and to renew his attemi)ts to pass round or through
it. But there were new dano-ers to be encountered. On
Jiinuary 17, 1812, a fearful storm came on as the 'Erebus'
1111(1 ' Terror ' were makin<^ tlieir way through the pack-ice,
whifh was this time met with in a more northern latitude
than the year before. The sea broke all the hawsers which
lirlil them to a laro-e piece of floe, and drove them helplessly
aloii!^- into the heavy pack. The}^ were now involved in an
lOan of rolling fragments of ice, Avhich were dashed against
tlioin by the waves with so much violence that their masts
luivored as if they would fall at every successive blow. The
Uul crashing noise of the straining and working of the tim-
i'TS and decks, as they were driven against some of the
iieavier pieces, might well appal the stoutest heart, and
liius hour passed away after hour. During this terrible
I'lie the ships were at one time so close together that, Avlien
the ' Terror ' rose to the top of one wave, the ' Erebus ' was
iitlio top of the wave next to leeward of her, the deep chasm
Ik'tweon them being filled with lieav}' rolling masses ; and as
I lie ships descended into the hollow^ between the waves, the
aaiutopsail-yard of each could be seen, just level with t\ui
rest of the intervening wave, from the deck of the other.
[Tilt} night, which now began to draw in, rendered their con-
liition, if possible, more hopeless and helpless than before;
Wt at midnight the snow, which had been falling thickly
It r several hours, cleared away, as the wind suddenly shifted
I' the westward ; the swell began to subside, and the shocks
rliieh the ships still sustained, though strong enough to
liliatter any vessel less strongly ribbed, were feeble com-
jiiivd ^vith those to Avhich they had been exposed. On the
rllowiiig day, the wind having moderated to a fresh breeze,
|-e crippled ships, whose rudders had been sorely shattered.
^mmm
48(;
THE rOLAU WOItLl).
were socnrdy luoorod to a liir<,^o lloo-piccc in the now iiliiiost
iiiotionlcss piic-lc, where, Ly dint of unccasinL;' liilxtur. the
<l!imii<jfes were rejjuired in tlie course of ii week, sind the vi's-
sels once more fitted to fiy^lit tlieir way to the south.
On Fehruiiry 22, the yreat hnrri<>r was seen frnm f]i,.
masthead, just before niidni<4'ht, ;ind the followintf dnv, llie
wind Uowino- directly on to its cliffs, they iipproaclieil it
within a mile and a half, in lat. 78° IT, the liiL-hest ever
attained in the southern lu^inisphere. From this point,
situated ahout 5° of lony-itude farther to the east tluiii
the indentation where the ships h.id so narrowly esoiij)ed
beini^- frozen fast in the precedinj^^ year, the barrier tiviidi d
considerably to the northward of east, so that Koss was
obli{^ed to <^ive up all hope of rounding it, and extiinl-
in^i^ his explorations towards tin.' Pole, as the season was
already considerabl}- advanced. On his return voya^^-e to tlie
Falklands, where he intended to pass the winter, lie had
already reached the latitude of (50°, and thoui^-ht hinisclC
ont of dano-<>r of meetinj^ with berj^^s, when, in the
afternoon of March 12, the southerly wind chanye<l to ;i
strong north-westerly bree/e. In tlie evening the wind in-
creased so much, and the snow-showers became so incessant.
that he was obliged to proceed under more moderate sail.
Snuill pieces of ice were also met with, warning him
presence of bergs, concealed by the thickly falling snow, s
that before midnight he directed the topsails of the • Kiv-
bus ' to be close-reefed, and every arrangement mailc I'nr
rounding to until daylight, deeming it too hazardous to niii
any longer. 'Our people,' says (he gallant explorer, "liad
hardly completc'd these operations, when a large berg was seen |J
ahead and quite close ; the shi[) was immediately hauLti toij
the wind on the port tack, with the expectation of l)einoaWei
to weather it ; but just at this moment the " Terror " Ava3j
observed running down uj^on us, under her topsail and foiv-j
sail; and as it was impossible for her to clear both tln^ licr^'*
and the "Erebus," collision was inevitable. We iustan'iy
hove all aback to diminish the violence of the shock; 'ufc
the concussion, when she struck us Avas such as to thi' 'V
almost every one off his feet; our bowsprit, forefo[>iii:i-',^
and oilier snudler .spars, were carried away, and Hk' ^li'I'
S(l
iiiini]
ii,i,'iiii
u/ion
;i,i,''<'iin
the ,
"Ter]
vicu',
top of
tlie cr
creasec
;,'i':i(lna
foajnin
the " 'j
that sli
tlie \vre
"■<•' \YQn
^llip; 11
^0 close
i?ainst
»ay hrt
■tI'"JJi;i<
e.vpedicjj
(Iiin'nii- s
'ii'iiucnt
cavy roj
\illg \v;
'" cliils,
iviKJei-od
>i'il; l)nt
I'ii'it of I
1' the ri-
'<'i-a,sion
^h after
■^"lidst tli(
ii'iiiid t
"■''■^ tliree-(
^■accd by,
^''" e.vj)ed
'.) seaiiK
«".Sllipo.;l
COLLISION OF TIIK MlRKHrS AND ' TKUIIOU.
4H7
linnfj'ilifjf too-otlior oiitiMif,H(Ml by ihr'w rio;<.fin<;, and <liisliin<^
a«,'iiiiist oacli otlier with fearful violciiot', wore falliii<4- down
upon the weather face of the lofty her^ nnder our lee,
ii<^ainst wliic'h the waves were l)reakin^ and fo:iniin;4' to near
the summit of its perpendicular elilfs. Sometimes the
"Terror" rose hi<»'h above us, almost exposing her keel to
view, and a<];'ain descended, as we in our turn rose to ihe
top of the wave, threatenintj^ to bury her beneath us, whilst
the crashiu*^ of the breaking ui)per-Avorks and boats in-
creased the horror of the scene. Provi<lential]y the sliii>s
ijvadually separated V)efore we drifted down amongsl Iht;
fiianiing breakers, and we had tlu^ gratilieaiion of seeing
the "Terror" clear the end of the berg, and of feeling
that she was safe. But she left us completely disabled ;
the wreck of the spars so encumbered the lower yard, that
we \vere unable to make sail, so as to get headway on the
ship ; nor had we room to wear round, being by this time
so close to the berg that the waves, when they struck
afjainst it, threw back their spray into the ship. The only
ff;iy left to lis to extricate ourselves from this awful and
ii}ipalling situation, AV.as by resorting to the hazardous
txpctlient of a stern board, which nothing could justify
thiring such a gale but to avert the danger which every
iiKiiiicnt threatened us of being dashe<l to pieces. The
licavy rolling of the vessel, and the probability of the masts
jviiig way, each time the lower yai'd-ai'nis struck against
;lu' dill's, which were towering high above our mast-heads,
iviiilei'od it a service of extreme danger to loose the main-
-lil; l)ut no sooner was the order given, than the daring
[lirit of the British seanum manifested itself— the men ran
lip the rigging Avith as much alacrity as on any ordinary
■na.sion; and, although more than once driven otf tlie yard,
'Wy after a short time sucee*.'ded in loosing the sail.
Amidst the roar of the wind and sea, it was ditticult both to
ii'iiv and to execute the orders that were given, so that it
•as three-quarters of an hour before wc coidd get the yards
'"ict'd by, and the maintack haided on board sharp aback
-an expedient that perhaps had never before been resorted
"hv seamen in such weather; but it liad the desin<l elfc.-ct ;
•k' ship gathered sternway, plunging her stern into the srii,
488
Tin: POLAR WORI.I).
and witli hor lower jiinl-arnis Hcnipiiif,' the rntj:<^n'(l fiicc of
the l)or<^, we in a few niinutoa rt'iiclMM] its wcstt-vu tenninn-
tion ; the '•'• undcr-tow," us it is culled, or the rcuftidn ol'tlio
water from its vertical cliffs, alone proventin<j: us beiu^^ driven
to utonis aijainst it. No sooner had we cleared it IJiaii
another was seen directly astern of ns, a^^-ainst wliich we
were rnnnino-; and the ditficnlty now was to ^'et the ship's
head turned round and pointed fairly through between tlni
two bergs, the breadth of the intervening space not exceedin;^;-
three times her own breadth. This, however, wo hai)pily iir-
eoniplished ; and in a few minutes, after getting before tlie
wind, she dashed through the narrow channel between two
perpendiculur walls of ice, and the foaming breakers wliieh
stretched across it, and the next moment we were in sniouth
water, under its lee. The " Teri'or's " light Avas iiiinie-
diately seen and answered ; she had rounded to waiting- f(»r
us .... , and, as soon as day broke, we had the grutifi-
cation of learning that she had not suffered any serious
damage.'
On December 17, Sir James Ross sailed from the Falklaiul
Islands with the intention of following the track of ^Veddt II.
as, from the account of that daring navigator, he had evtiv
reason to expect to find a clear sea, which would enal)le him
considerably to extend the limits of geographical knowledi^i'
towards the Pole. He was disappointed, for though ho dis-
covered some new land (03° — 01° 30' S. hit., 55° — 57° ^V.
long.) to the south of D'Urville's Terre Louis Philippe, yot
the pack-ice so blocked his progress, that the farthest point
he could attain was in lat. 71° 30' S., long. 11° 51' W. On |
March 1 he recrossed the Antarctic Circle, and on the 2.St]i
of the same month dropped his anchors at the Cape. Tluis
ended this most remarkable voyage, so honourable to all J
engaged in it, for, as Sir John Richardson justly renmrks.
'the perseverance, daring, and coolness of the commandiiiu'
officer, of the other officers, and of the crews of the "Ere-j
bus" and "Terror" was never surpassed, and have beoiij
rarely, if ever, equalled by seamen of any nation.'
Since then the ' Pagoda,' wliich had been sent out by tlioj
Admiralty for the purpose of observing magnetic phenoineii;iJ
ROSS S RKTIRX,
480
ICO of
mura-
of the
dvivt'ii
i tluiu
icli we
I ship's
3011 tho
coeding
ipily iic-
t'ore tlw
eeii two
rs wliicli
1 smooth
s iiinne-
litiny for
e gratiti-
y serious
in a qnartor of tho Antarctic Sous thiit liad not boon visitod
by Sir Janios Ross, attainod tho "'hvl paraUol, hut no nioro
rocont oxpodition has boon fitted ont to prosocnto his dis-
covorios, and no nuin after him has soon Mount Kn'hus
vomitin*^ forth its torrents of llanio, oi' traced th(3 stnpt'iidous
barrier wliich stopped liis pro|,«'ross to tho l*olo.
ZLfiritiS^i'^
Tho Sca-Elepliai.t.
theiiou\en;i|
;:>tiuit ot Magellan.
(From .'111 uni^iiiiil Hrie-.Lh \iy i i U.rl';k Wliymr'-'O
CHArTEIl XXXVTTI.
THK KTllAIT OF iMAii lOLLAN.
Duscrijilioii of the Strait — ^^'(■st^'l'n I'hiti'iiiU'i — Point l>iiu;;iiii'!3fs — Tliu Niiriuws—
S.iiiil I'liilip's IJiiy — Cape Fr(j\viir(l — •Graiul Se'ciicrv Port I'iiinini — Tlif SiiIl'i'
Ilivrr — Dai'wiii's Ascent of Moiml Tani — 'i'lif ImcIii'Ioi- liivir — I'lii;;!!-!!
Ri'acli — Sia Ifcach- Soulli Dcsohilioii llarliotii' of JVlrii'y — ^\'illi\^^•|\vs— I'i--
covcry of tile Strait by Araj^rllaii (Oclolici' 20, l;V_'l) — IlnilvO — Saniiiniio
Caveiulish — Sclioutoii and Lo JMairo — JJymn — lliin;^aiiivilli; Wallis ;^i. 1
Cartori't —Kinijf and I'itzroy Sctllcnicnt at Piinta Ai'inas — Inc-rcasiiii;- l'a,-si_'
tliroiigli till.' Strait — A future lliijliway of Coniincrco.
rPHE celebrated strait wliicli bears the name of Mno-clLii'.
J- is <»"eiierally pictured as the scene of a wild tuid dre:
desolation ; but though its climate is far from hciu<y geiii.
and its skies are often veiled with mists and rain, yet natuiv
can smile even here.
A o-lance at the map shows ns the extreme irreaiiLirity
of its formation, as it is constantlv chann-iiur in Avidtli ;ni'l
direction; now swelling- almost to the magnitude of a ^l"li-
I'OII.MATIOX OF MAdKI.LANS STItAIT.
401
.Siii'iiii''''"
Will lis :>!
In f^
,-ot nature
[vou'ularity
|vi(Uh aiiAj
tcrnniotin S(>n, and tlion nLjain o<»i)ii'ii<'tiii;,^ \o n iiiirrow |nis-
8iii,'t'; soiiu'tiiiU'S (iikiii;^' ii i'ii|>id tiii-ii to ilif iiorili, iiiid at
(itlicrs as Huddf'uly dcviatin;^^ !<• the south. Ishiiids uikI
islets of'i'vory iurin — S(»mo niiTc iialctMl v(>cl<s, otlu-rs rlutlicd
with uiMbrajjfcous woods — arc soattorrd (»vcr its siirfiico ; pro-
iiituitorit'S withcait nnnihcr, tVoiii the I'atan'oniiiii iii;iiiil;iiid
the Ku(>f>"iaii archipcla;''*.*, protnah' their hold iVonts into
bosom, as if witli th».' intt'iitioti of ('h)siii;4' it iilloi^cthcr ;
oiiiith'ss bays and havens are seoo[ted into its I'oeky
s, as if tlio H(ni in a thonsainldilferont phices hud striven
to o))en a now passiij^e to lior waters.
The western entranee of this reniarkabh' strait is formed
by (^neen Catherine's Foreland (C*ape Virj^-ins) and l*oint
Dun;4'enoss, the hitter having- been thns named from its re-
seiublanco to the well known Kentish promontory at the
eiistern month t>f the channel. Althon;^'h it rises at most
iiiiie feet above low-water mark, the snow-white breakers
whi(di the tides are constantly dashing' over its sides, rentier
it visible from a ^'reat distance. It is ^'enerally the resort of
a number of sea-lions. When the wind comes blowin<>' from
lorth-oast, the passing mariner — who, fn^m the shallow
of the shore, is oblii^vd to keep at some distance from
Ness — hears their hoarse bellowini;*, Avhich harmonises
with the Aviid and desolate character of the sceni'.
itrosses and petrels hover about them, wliiU' rows «tf
-lookin<4- pen;4-nins seem to contemplate their doin^^-s
pliiloso|»hic inditforenco.
yond those promontories, the strait Avidens into l*os-
n Bay, which at Punta Del;4'ada. and Cape ()ran;^'e con-
to a na rrow passay;o. This leads int<j a. wide basin,
Spaniards have y-iven the name of Saint
id which ayain terminat(^s in a second narrow
•r ' unci, a formation resembling' on a small scale
tlio S, of Marmora, which, as wc all know, has likewise the
iiici> of a lake, receiving" and discharyiny its waters
tlini, .Ji the Dardanel' s and the Strait of Constantinople.
DmiiiLi- the rising' of tl Hood, a stnmg current flows throui-'h
all til
jlqi
ese
ayi
and
'W
s from the west, so as to al
low
)s an easy passaj.
'ven aa'ainst the wind: but durin<:!:
492
Tlin: POLAR WORLD.
ebb tido, the current turns to the east, so that at this fime
a vessel, even when favoareil by the wind, makes but little
proo-ress, or is even oblig-ed to anchor to avoid losing- o-vouiid.
When Mao-ellan, after sailinn- round Cape Viryins, pene-
trated into the strait, this circumstance at once convinced
that fi-reat navigator that he was not in an enclosed bay, Imt
in an open channel, which Avould lead him into anotlier
ocean. Thus far the country on both sides of the strait
consists of nearly level plains, like those of Patagonia ; but
beyond the second Narrows, the land begins to assume the
more bold and picturesque appearance which is character-
istic of Tierra del Fuego. Mountains rise above mountains
with deep intervening valleys, all covered by one thick,
dusky mass of forest ; while farther to the east, scarcely a
bush clothes the naked soil. The trees reach to an elevation
of between 1,000 and 1,500 feet, and are succeeded by a band
of peat, with minute Alpine plants, and this again is succeeded
by the line of perpetual snow, which, according to Captain
King, descends to between 8,000 and 4,000 feet.
The finest scenery about the Strait of Magellau is un-
doubtedly to the east of Cape Troward, the most soutlicrly
point of the mainland of South America. This promontory,
which consists of a steep mass of rock about 800 feet hi<:!li,
abutting from a mountain chain of about 2,000 or .'5,0()0 feet
in height, forms the boundary between two very different
climates, for to the east the weather is finer and more agree-
able than to the west, where wind and rain are almost jer-
petual.
On the Patagonian j^lains, the drought and the want of
protection against the piercing winds almost entirely imptMl''
vegetation; but the country between Cape Negro — a litf!-'
within the second Narrows — and Cape Froward, or tht^
eastern shore of Brunswick peninsula, is shielded by its situ-
ation against the almost perpetual storms from the west, ami
enjoys, moreover, a sufficiency of rain, and now and tlitii
serene weather. As, moreover, the soil in this central jiair
of the strait consists of disintegrated clay-slate, wliieli is ,
most favourable to the growth of trees, the forests, from iill'|
these cause i, are finer here than anywhere else.
The country about Port Famine is particularly distiii- 1
i
('diue
the g
liave
has t;
(lescri
' TJ;
laiidin
n-ater,
iUx'ts V
]iteral]_
iitl'urd i
and ])Qi
of celer
ill tlirm
'I mil
of tlie ,
Host era
is conip]
ii'i'oand.
afford a
')ftiies bl
from tht
"hieli, Av
fOill'S iiJo
-Arrest,. il
'ilsf ,,i,t ^
>iiilc to ih
' flavin
'"rest Avi;
Aiitiiivtic
:"' trvt hi,
'"■'' Uyo ()<
'""1 a spoc
■"''' iiiiieJi
tile except
"''•'''I-, tlu'S
"iituralist-
I'OKT FA.MINH
49 ;J
ly ai>tin-
•'uislied for the ricliut'ss of its voii-etation, and both for this
reason, and from its central situation, this hiirbour has be-
come a kind of eliief station for the ships that pass thron^'h
the strait. Several unfortunate attempts at colonisation
have been made at Port Famine ; here many a naturalist
has tarried, and thus no part of the strait has been oftener
described, or more accurately observed.
' The anchorag-e,' says Dumont d'Urville, who, in December,
18:57, spent several days at Port Famine, ' is (excellent, and
kndin<^ everywhere easy. A fine rivulet <,nves ns excellent
water, and the neiylibouring furests mii^-ht furnish whole
fleets with the necessary fuel. The cliffs alouf^ the shore are
literally covered with nnissels, limpets, and whelks, whieh
ati'ord a delicious variety of fare to a crew tired of salt beef
and ]>eas. Among- the plants I noticed with pleasure a species
of celery, wdiich, with another herb resembling- our corn Hower
in form and taste, gives promise of an excellent salad.
'I made rise of my first leisure to visit the romantic banks
of the Sedger liiver, which discharges its waters on the
western side of the port. At its mouth the swampy strand
is completely covered with enormous trees heaped upon the
ground. These naked giants, stri}»ped of their branches,
afford a remarkable spectacle : they might be taken for huge
bones bleached by time. No doubt they are transported
finm the neighbouring fV)rest by the waters of the river,
which, when it overflows its banks, after a deluge of rain,
ti.'ars along with it the trees it meets Avitli in its course.
Arrested by the bar at the month of the stream, they are
liist out upon its banks, where they remain when the waters
sink to their usual level.
' Having crossed the river, T entered the large and fine
I'uvst with which it is bordered. The chief tree is the
Autiiretic beech {F(((jiis bdnloiths) whieh is often from (!() to
'•'I' ft-et high, and about :} feet in diameter. Along with this
iiio two other trees, the winter's bark {]Vtiitfrl(i urotiKtlitui)
mil a species of berberis, with a very si>lid wood ; but they
iiiv much less abundant, and of a nnich smaller size. With
iho exception of mosses, lichens, and other plants (»f this
"I'llt'r, these forests afford but little that is intei-esting to the
naturalist — no quadrupeds, no reptiles, no land-snails ; a few
494
THE rOLAR WORLD.
insects nii<l some birds are the only spociiueiis to be f^'aiiicd
after a hn\<^ senrcli. After (•ollcctiiiij;- ao-ood suji])!}' ((f iiiuss(,'s
and liobens, I returned to the boat for the purpose of rowini,'
lip (he river. Ahliou<4'h the current •svas tok'rably rapi<l. we
advanced about two miles, adniirii)<T^ the beauty of its um-
brageous banlvS. On my return I sh(jt two g'eese thai were
crossiuo- the river over our heads, and whose excelh'ut meat
amply sup])lied my table for several days. This, together
with the little o-obios -which were abundantly caiin'ht with
hand-lines, the laro-e mussels -we detached from the rocks,
aiul the celery salad, ^ave me dinners tit for an alderman.
How often since have I re^Tetted the plenty of Port Famine!'
In the month of February (bS:*!), in the heii^-ht of tlie
Antarctic sunnner, Mr. Darwin ascended Monnt Tarn, whi. li
is 2, ()()() feet hig'h, and the most elevited point in the vicinitv
of Port Famine. 'The forest,' says our j^reat luituralist,
'commences at the line of hiii-h-water mark, and during- llic
first two hours I gave over all hopes of reaching the suuuiiit.
So thick was the wood, that it was necessary to have constant
recourse to the compass, for every landmark, though in a
mountainous country, was completely shut out. In the deep
ravines, the death-like scene of desolation exceeded all
description ; outside it was blowing a gale, but in these
holloAvs not even a breath of wind stirred the leaves of the
tallest trees. So gloomy, C(dd, and wet was every part, that
not even the fungi, mosses, or ferns could llourish. In the
valleys it was scarcely possible to crawl along, they weii'
so completely barricaded by great mouldering trunks, which
had fallen down in every directicm. When passing dver
these ntitural bridges, one's course was often arrested hy
sinking knee-deep into the rotten W(»od; at other times,
Avhen attemiiting to lean against a tree, one was staitk'il
by huding a mass of decayed nnitter. ready to fall at tin'
sliii'litest touch. We at last found ourselves amoULT tlu'
stunted trees, and then soon reached the bare ridge, which
conducted us to ihe summit. Here was a view cliaraiteiistic
of Tierra del Fuego ; irregular chains of hills, mottled witJi
patches of sin»w, deep yellowish-green valleys, and arms ot'
the sea, inlersecting the land in many directions. The
strong wind was ))iereingly cold, and the atmosphere I'litlnT:
YOKK ROADS AND BACIll^LOR TKAK.
495
1 f'
nilt'tl ^:
.osses
(I. \V>'
s uin-
rocks,
.en linn,
iiniii'''. "
of til''
\, wliieli
vichiity
tturalist,
irin<^' U»^
smuiuit.
oonstant
ULi'b in a
ilie d<"''l>
.('(Ird all
in tU'^^t'
est •I" the j;^
|Mvt. lliut :,;
. In the
liey ^v^•l•''
ks, \vhi''h .
siu'J,' t'^'^'^'
,restf<l I'V
lier tini'-^
s stavlle'l ::
[all al th"
uoUL? the a;
lo-e, wlueli
Inu'tevistu' ^
lule.l with I
[l anus "t
ons. I'l"'
„nv vath'V
hazy, so that Ave did not stay loiifj on the top of the mountain.
Our descent was not quite so laborious as our ascent; for
ilie weight of tlic body forced a passag-e. and all the slips
and falls AV(^re in the ri^-ht direction.'
To the Avest of CSipe Froward, the strait extends in a
iKirth-westerly, almost r(>ctilinear direction, until it finally
dlieus into the Pacitic, between Cape Pillar and Cape Victory.
Here a day rarely passes without rain, hail, or snow. Where
the dreadful power of the prevailing- winds has free play, the
mountain sides are naked and bare, but in every sheltered
nook the damp climate produces a luxuriant vegetation.
The trees, however, do not attain any great height, and at
Port Gallant, the beech is already decidedly stunted in its
growth. This is no doubt caused by the excessive humidity
of the soil, which in all lower situations is converted by
the continual rains into a. deep morass. The trunks and the
branches are covered with a thick layer of moss, and the
tree becomes rotten in its youth. But many shrid^s, herbs,
;sih1 mosses thrive uinh'r the perpetual deluge ; the latter
particularly, covering large patches of g'round Avith a spong^y
I'liriiet. It may easily be iinag-ined hoAV difficult, or rather
imi)ossible it must be to penetrate into the interior of such
a country. Yet even these Avild inhospitable reg'ious can
biiast of many a romantic scene. Thus the English Reach,
whieh extends from Ca})e Froward to C*arh)S Island, is bouiuh'd
iiu Ixith sides by h)fty mountains, their cones or jagged peaks
mvered Avith eternal snow. Its southern bank, i'ormed by
I'laveuce Island, is intersected with bays and channels,
'WO of which, ]\Iagdalena Sound and Barbara Channel, lead
'iiroiiu'li a iiia/e of islands into the open sea. ScA'cral gdaciers
'.•■sfciid ill a winding course from the upiier great expanse
t' snow to tlie sea coast, and many a, cascade comes dashing
i'lwii from rock to rock, ykognian * draAvs an (enthusiastic
Meture of the beauty of York lloads, near the mouth of the
Miiiill Bacdielor liiver. To the south, l)ehiiid Carlos Island,
iii'nuitains rise above mountains, and snow-tields al)<»ve snow-
tii'lds ; to the north, lies the jagged c(dossus, which from its
>"iitarv grandeui- has boon i-alled r>;ich(dor Peak, and at
vlio ■ .)t the crystal river now hides itself beneath a shady
^ \'iiv,i^i' ot' ill. S\vi.cli>h >liiji • I'iuiiciiii'.*
406
TJIH rOLAK WOULD.
-vood, iuul now rolls its ci'ysliil Aviitcrs tlirouy,-li a green lawn,
deeoriited with clumps of riiclisias. But in spite of its
romantic beauty, the want of life yives a melancholy cha-
racter to this solitar}"^ vale. Beyond Carlos Island in Loijj
Keach, the banks of the strait become yet more Ijare
and des<jlate. Veg'etation descends lower and lower into
the valh'ys, and even here the trees are misshapen and
dwarfish. But the mountain scenery has still all tlie
majesty which snow-fields and glaciers of a beryl-like blue
impart to an Alpine landscape. As Sea Keach shows itself,
vegetation is almost totally extinct, and on approaching the
mouth of the strait, the mountains become loAver, their
forms are less picturesque, and instead of the stern grandeur
which marks the middle part of the strait, low, rounded,
barren hills make their appearance, which completely justify
the name of South Desolation, wdiich Sir James Narboroiigh
gave to this coast, ' because it w'as so desolate a land to
behold.'
It may easily be inmgined that the prevailing Avinds beyond
Cape Froward are extremely troublesome to ships sailing- to
the Avestern mouth of the strait, and that if not entirely
beaten back, they can frequently ordy force the passiitic
after many etforts. Fortunately, the deeply indented coasts ^
possess a number of small havens which may serve the nmriner
as stations during his gradual advance. Thus, close to the 'A
mouth of the strait, Avliere, between C^ape Victory and C;i|ii.' |'^
Pillar, the sea during and after storms is so boisterous that
even steamers require their utmost strength not to be daslitd
against the rocks, a secure port, approinuately called 'Har-
bour of Mercy,' allows the vessels to Avatch for more tran-
quil Aveather, and to seize the first faA^ourable opportunity fur
emerging into the 02)en sea. But even these harbours and
bays are subject to peculiar '>nigers from sudden gusts o:
Avind that come SAveeping down * .-om the mountains, and are
known among the seal catcdiers Avho frequent these dang'orous
Avaters under the name of vilUiraics, or hurricane sqiialls.j
For Avhen the Avild south-w-est storms come rushing a^iaius
the mountain-masses of Tierra del Fuego, the compressed ai;
precipitates", itself Avith redoubled violence over the rock-wall
and tluui suddenly expanding, flows down the A'alleys or ;iullii*
'■"•■"U'lieiej
THE CAPE OV THE VJROIXS.
497
iwn,
' its
Lon'^
bar*'
' into
I aiul
II tlie
e Uuc
i its(>lf,
Lun- ill'-!
•, tlirir
rantleuv
ounded,
V justify
bovou'^'li
laud to
Is uv '^'^dlu
toariii<^- up trees by tlui roots, and liurliii<j;- rocks into the
abvss. Where sncli a g'ust of wiiul touches the surface of
the water, the sea surges in niij^-hty waves, and vohnnes <»f
s}>ray are Avhirkul away to a vast distance. If a ship conies
uinli'V its infhience, its safety depends mainly upon the
sti'i'ii^'tli of its anchor roi)os.
8onie situations are particuhirly subject to williwaws, and
then the total want of vej^etation and the evident marks of
mill al(>n<4' the mountain slopes warn the mariner to avoid
the nei^-hbourhood. In Gabriel Channel, Captain Kin^ saw
a spot where the williwaws, bursting over the mountains on
tilt' south side, had swept down the declivities, and then rush-
inif against the foot of the opposite hills had again dashed
upwards with such fury as to carry away with them every-
thing that could possibly be detached fnjm the bare rock.
It was a memorable day in the annals of maritime dis-
euwry (October 20, l-Vil) when Magellan reached the eastern
ntrance of the strait that was to lead him, tirst of all Euro-
peiui navigators, from the broad basin of the Atlantic into
ilie still wider expanse of the Pacitic Ocean. It was the
by dedicated in the Catholic calendar to St. Ursula and
!ier eleven thousand virgins, and he consequently named
lie promontory which lirst struck his view, ' Cabo de las
'irgiiies.' The flood-tide streaming violently to the west
nviuced him that he was at the mouth of an open channel,
lit he had scarcely provisions for three months — a short
Jtiwance for venturing into an unknown world, and thus
tore he attempted the passage he convoked a council
all his oflicers. Some w^ere for an innnediate return to
uoi>t', but the majority voted for the continuation of the
yii<i'e, and Magellan declared that should they even bo re-
I'l'd to eat the leather of their shoes he would persevere
the last, and with God's assistance execute the commands
Ills imperial master Charles V. He then at once gave
It'is to enter the strait full sail, and on pain of death for-
l" any one to say a word more about a return, or the want
I'l'i.ivisions.
Fititunately the winds were in his favour, for had the usual
"ineneies of this stormy region opposed him, there is no
K Iv
4i>S
TIIH POI.AH WORLD.
doubt that with such crazy vessels, and sucli diseoiitentcil
crews, all his heroism would have failed to ensure success.
It was the spring of the southern hemisphere, and the stniit
showed itself in one of its rare aspects of calm. Miiiiv
fisli were caught, and, as Pigafetti, the historian of llic
voyage, relates, the aromatic winter's bark which served
them for fuel ' wonderfully refreshed and invigorated their
spirits.'
The fircfj kindled by the savages on the southern side
during the night induced Magellan to give that part of the
country the name of Tierra del Fuego, or Fireland ; while
from their high stature and bulky frames, he called the in-
habitants of the opposite mainland, Patagonians (pata^foii
being the Spanish augmentative of pata, foot).
Although several da3's were lost in exi)loring some of the
numerous passages and bays of the straits, its eastern iiiontlij
was reached on November 28, and Magellan saw tlie wide]
Pacific expand before him.
In 1525, Charles V. sent out a new expedition of six vessels,]
under Garcia de Loaisa, to circumnavigate the glol)e. Tliej
vice-admiral of the squadron was Sebastian el Caiio, who,]
after the death of Magellan, had brought the illustrieiis
navigator's ship safely back to Europe, and as a reward Ikk
been ennobled with the globe in his coat of arms, and tlu
motto, ' Primus circumdedisti me.'
Loaisa entered the strait on January 20, 152(>, but he w;i#
beaten back by storms as far as the river Santa Cruz. Oi^
April 8, he once more attempted the j^assage, and eniei';^v(J
into the Pacific on May 25.
Simon de Alcazaba, who in 1584 attempted to pass the
Magellans with a number of emigrants for Peru was 1 "Sl
successful, but in 1539 Alfonso de Camargo, having lost t\vo
vessels in the strait, passed it with the third, and reaclied
the port of Callao.
Until now the Spanish flag had alone been seen in tliej
remote and solitary waters, but the time w^as come wlu
they were to open a passage to its most inveterate foes.
August 20, 1570, Francis Drake, commissioned by Quo^
Elizabeth to plunder and destroy the Spanish settleuieat^
I'iissage
IJRA K K A \ I) SA \U\ I KNTO.
499
W'
tlie west coast of Aiuerit'ii, ran into the strait, and on
December sallied forth into the Pacific.
To meet this formidable enemy, the Viceroy of Pern sent
out in the same year two ships nnder Pedro Harmiento do
(liiniboa. His orders were to intercept Drake's passage
tlirong-h the strait and then to sail on to Spain. Thonj^di he
liiilod in the object of his mission, yet Sarmiento displayed in
•lie navi<j;ation of the intricate and dan<^'erous i)assag"es alon*^'
;liL' south-west coast of America, the coiuvage and skill of a
iiusummate seaman, and he <^'avethe lirst exact and detailed
i'Count of the land and waters of Fne<jfia. His voyajjfc, ac-
urdinjjf to the weij^hty testimony of Captain Kin;^', deserves to
be noted as one of the most useful of the aye in which it was
iviformed.
Oil his arrival in tSi»aiii, Sarmiento strono-ly pointed out
the necessity of establishing a colony and erecting- a fort in
die strait (at that time the only known passag'e to the Pacific),
so as eft'ectually to prevent the recurrence of a future hostile
expedition, like that of Drake. Commissioned by Philii^ 11.
V c'iirry his plans into execution, he founded a colony, to
•in<>, wli'S^l'*''^^'!*^ 1^*-' gave the name of Ciudad de San Felipe, but
iUustvi*'^^*^ M^ '''^''^'^*'''^ ^^ disasters entirely destroyed it; and when, a
•w years later. Cavendish, who had fitted out three ships
:t liis own expense to imitate the example of Drake, ap-
^riived in the strait, he found but three survivors of many
but ho wiU^B'ii'th'eds, and gave the scene of their misery the appropriate
line of Port Famine, which it has retained to the present day.
After Cavendish and Hawkins (1594), the Dntch navig-a-
rsDe Cordes (1599), Oliver Van Noort (1599), and Spilberg-
i)l-V), attempted, Avith more or less success, to sail through
li' strait with the intention of harassing and plundering the
piniards on the coast of the Pacitic.
Strange to say, no attempt had been made since Magellan
iliscover a passage farther to the south, so universal and
inly established was the belief that Fuegia extended with-
[•' interruption to the regions of eternal ice, until at length,
P'Uii, the Dutchmen, Schouten and Le Maire, discovered
liassage round Cape Horn. Two years later, Garcia de
.'ntc\l
ecess.
strait
;Mauy
of tlu
servcA
1 their
rn side
t of th''
\; while
L the iu-
(piitagou
ac of the
in mouth
the wide
six vessels,]
h)V>e.
Tlvel
lis, uiul tlv
Cruz.
0^
id ouier'j;o<l
I to pass
mg lost t\^
Ivud reaebe
tliel
leou w
M
coiue
ite foes.
\\ bv n''^^
luleuK'i'A^
iales sailed through the Strait of Le Maire, and returning
K K 2
5C0
TIIK l'()I.Al{ WOULD.
tliruiij^'li the Miiy;('ll;nis into the Atluiitit; was thus the tiist
circiiuiiiavi<jfator of Fuej^-ia. In l(!()i>, Sir John Nurborouoh
Laving boon sent out by Kin<^ ("harles II. to explore tin-
Ma^elhmie re^-ions, furnished a <^ood [general chart of tin-
strait, anil many phma of the anchora<^e within it.
More than sixty years now ehipsed before any ex])edHi<>ii
of historical renown made its appearance in the strait. TJio
dan<^ers and hardships which had assailed the previous navi-
}4'ators, discouraf>'ed their successors, who all preferred the
circuitous way round Oape Horn to the shorter Init, as it
was at that time considered, more perilous route throno-li
the strait. After this long pause, Byron (December, Kfil)
and Bougainville (February, 1 765) once more attempted
the Magellans. The dilticidties encountered by them were
surpassed by those of Wallis and Carteret. The foi-iner
spent nearly fmr months (from Decendjer 17, 17G(j, to Aiuil
11, 1707) in a perpetual conflict with stormy Aveather Avliili;
slowly creeping through the strait ; and the latter reijuircd
eighty-four days for his passage from Port Famine to Caje
Pillar. No wonder that the next circumnavigators, Liitke,
Krusenstern, Kotzebue, preferred sailing round Cape Hern,
and that adventurous seal hunters became for a long time
the sole visitors of these ill-famed waters. At length tli^-^
British Government came to a resolution worthy of Eiii^lamll
and resolved to have the Magellanic regions carefully sup
veyed, and to conquer them, as it were, anew for geo^aa'
phical science. Under the command of Captain Kin*,', thi
' Adventure ' and the ' Beagle ' Avere engaged in this ardiu
task from 182() to 18:]0 ; but such were the dangers they li
to encounter, that Captain Stokes, the second in comiiuiii
after contending for four months witli the storms and eurreiii
Avhich frequently threatened to dash his vessel against t
cliffs, became so shattered in mind and body, that afti
his return to Port Famine he committed suicide in a fit
melancholy.
From 18:51 to 1834, Captain Fitzroy was engaged in w
pleting the survey of Patagonia and Tierra del Fue^n. ;;
the result of all these labours was a. collection of charts a
plans which have rendered navigation in those part,-^ a^^
I'ait.
and
MAfiKLl.ANS STRAIT.
AOl
,' I'lvst
irt>u'j;U
n-c the
of \\\y-
it. Tl»'
ms luivi-
jITCmI till'
wt, us ii
jer, I'tVt)
attomptiMl
:liom Avevo
lie foniwr
(), to Avnl'.^
atli»-v Avliil'! ^
er roquivi'l
iue to CiU^
,tovs, IMW
Cave H"vn,
-a louiA- 1^»^9
leivj;th ilia
of En--V'^'-"V^
lavefully s"i'.'
for «i;o«)trv;i'
n Kinu'.th<
tliis uril^uu
ers they lit
{ii commune
ami eurr«'ii^
ao-ainst tl
y, that aft<
de in -a ^i^
,ao;o»l ill f"
ll ' ruego, I
lof clvartsui
pavtft a
as can be expected in tlu> most tenipe.stiiou.s n'oinn df tlie
'ilobe.
While formerly the passa^-e round Capo Horn was univer-
sally preferred, the more accurate knowledge of the Strait of
Magellan, for which navigation is indebted to the labv*nrs of
Kiiiy and Fitzroy, has since then turned tlie scale in i'avitur
(if the latter.
For a trading-vessel, with only the ordinary numbf.'r of
hands on board, tin; passau'e through the strait from east to
west is indeed generally vx>ry ditlicuit, and even dangerous;
but in the opposite direction, the almost constant westerly
winds render it commodious and easy, particularly during
the summer months, in which they are most prevalent.
For small vessels — clippers, schooners, cutters — the passage
ill both directions is, according to the excellent authority of
Captain King, much to be preferred. Such vessels have far
iiiiire reason for fearing the heavy seas about Cape Horn;
they can more easily cross against the west winds, as their
iiiinia'uvres are generally very skilfid, and they find in the
Suuud itself a great number of anchoring places, which are
inaccessible to larger vessels.
For steamers the advantage is entirely on the side of the
^trait, and they consequently now invariably prefer this
iniite. Here they find plenty of Avood, Avhich enables them
t'j save their coals ; and moreover, from Cape Tamar as
:ir as the Gulf of Penas, an easy navigation for about ;}(K»
>'a miles through the channels along the west coast of
.luierlca.
As the trade of the Pacific is continually increasing, and
t!io strait of Magellan more frequented from year to year,
Ki' cannot wonder that the old project of settling a colony on
its shores should have been revived in our days. About the
]<:av 18 10 the government of Chili established a penal colony
itPunta Arenas and Port Famine, which miserably failed in
usoquence of a mutiny ; but in 185-'}, about 150 German emi-
.raiits were settled at Puiita Arenas, and when the ' Novara '
viiited the strait in 1858, they were found in a thriving con-
'Htion. Should the project of stationing steam-tugs in the
i'rait, and of erecting lighthouses at Cape Virgins and at
C02
THK I'OLAU \V0R1,I).
the entrance of Smyth Channel,* be executed, the Mii<;(>Iliiiis
wouM become one of tlie liio-h-roads of comnieroe, and tlic
dano'ors whicli proved so dreadful to the navifjators of funiior
days, a mere tale of the past.
* Tlio ' Nii.ssau,' tiiidcr tlio commaml of ('ii|it!iiu Iiiclinnl Jljiync, is nt [iicmhI
fii(ia{^<'(l in cfniipli'tiiif^ llic survey of the Siriiits (>( Mii;;i'llaii ami ot' Snivili
(JliaiUK'l. Sh(( arrived in Deeoialjci- 186(5, and uill iiio.sl prolialijy he eniiijuvd
tlu'oo years on a task which proves I ho increasing iniiioitancc of tiio passagp.
-^ (^
— ,>
/>'^.-
WnndCiinfT Albatrops.
I'ilfti'cnco
of I'ijisf
.\i;M||ii__
i'li mill's
Tlieir I'ln
n. Gre;
t'liarac'tei'.
[IMTAG
'^ tinen
Ifi tota
'fiisJied h
piiiiidg-ai
«iffu-l(nul
''f'l mois<
h^wof'tho
JDortlnvnra,
'^iiioli pen-
Groun of I'lxl.agi.Miicin.s.
CHAITEU XXXIX.
PATAdOMA AND TlIK I'ATAGOJS'IANS.
IiitTii'tiico of Cliniiitc bctwct'ii lvi>t luid Wf>t I'iiliigniiiii — Ivxtra'H'iliiiai'y Ariilily
of Kast Patagonia — Zoology — Tlu' Guaiiaco — The TucutiU'O 'I'lic i'ataunniaii
Agniit i — ^'ultlll•el5 — The Turkfy-Eiizzanl — The Ciirranelia — Tlie Cliimaiigo —
Lianviu'si O.-stricIi — Tlio Patagoniaiis — J'^agguvuted Accounts of their Stiituiv —
Tliiir Phys^iognoniy and Divss — Koligions Ideas— Superstitions — A'^tronnmical
Knuwlcdge — Divis^ion into Tribes — Tiic Tent or Tolilo -Trading K(jnt«s —
Till' Great Caciqiu — Introduction of the Ifort-e — Industry — Amusements —
Character,
IjATAGONIA, the soiitliern oxtromity of the American coii-
• tinent, is divided by the ridye of the Andes into two parts
f a totally different character. Its wesicrn coast-lands,
l^iislied by the cold Antarctic current and exposed to iho
iininid g-ales of a restless ocean, are almost constantly obscured
vitlu'louds and drenched with rain. Dense forests, dri[)piug'
hitli moisture, clothe the steep hill sides ; and froiuthe cold-
Istssuf the summer, the snow-line is so low, that for 050 miles
soi'thwards of Tierra del Fueo-o, almost every arm of the sea
pliicli penetrates to the intericn' higher chain is terminated
huL;'e g'laeicrs descending to the water's edge.
HO-i
Tin: roi.AU \V(un,i).
East I'liiiiironiii, <»ii the conlniry, a vaHi }»laiii risini^' in
HiK'ccssivc terraces t'nMii the Atlaiilie to tlie toot o|' llir Cm--
(lillera, is one of the most arid reyinns of the ^Holie. Tlie
oxtreino ilrynoss of the [trevailiiiy- westerly wiinls, which
have heeu t(»tally <k'[»rived of their hiuiiidity hefore cit.^inM'
the AikU'S, and the well roiiiidi'd shiii«;'Ies \vhi( h c'oiii|K».sf Hi,.
soil, liavo entailed the curse of sterility (»ii tin; land. M,.-
notonous warm tints of brown, yellow, or lij^ht red, evfiv-
■whero fatio-ue the eye, wliich vainly secdcs for rest in tlir
dark blue sky, and lliids refreshin«^- yreen only on some ii\rr
banks.
Many broad flat valostranssoft the plains, and in tliesc tin*
vegetation is somewhat better. The streams of former u^vs
have no doubt hollowed them out, for the rivers of the iircseiit
day are utterly inade<|uate to the task. On account of tlic
dryness of the atmos[diere, the traveller may journey for
days in these Pata^'(»nian plains without fludin;:;- a (lr(i|i nf
water. Sprin<j^8 arc rare, and even when found are ^•eiienilK
bi'ackish and unre fresh iui,'. While the 'Beaj^-le' was anclier-
ing in the spacious harbour of Port St. Julian, a i)ar1y our
day accompanied Captain Fitzroy on a long walk rouiid the
head of the harbour. They were eleven hours without tiistiii;,'
any water, and some of the party were quite exlimistcd.
From the summit of a hill, to which the a.])p. o})riate name
of ' Thirsty Hill ' was g'iven, a fine lake was spied, and two of ;
the party proceeded -with concerted sig-nals to show wlictlur I-
it was fresh water. The disappointment may be iniii^iiit'd l|
when the supposed lake was found to be a snow-white exi»iuisi'
of salt, crystallised in great cubes.
The extreme dryness of the air, which imparts so sterile ;i
character to the country, favours the formation of ouiiini
deposits ou the naked islands along- the coast, Avhieli im!
frequented by sea-birds. Protracted droug-hts are es.seiiti;il
to the accumulation of this manure, for repeated f--lK)A\\:'rs ef
rain would wash it into the sea, and for this reason no eii:i in)
deposits are found on the populous bird-mountaijis of t]ie|
north. A similar dryness of the atmosphere favours the;
deposit at Ichaboe on the African coast, at the Kooria Xeeiii
Islands in the Indian Ocean, and at the Chincha Islands in
Tlie A
iillied t(
miieii n
from ,3(
"f tlie
illfolc'l-;,
n'atao
•'•indeei
file Core
n(»rji, bi
^"Utl, Pii
:!iiiii tJie
I"'.sed to
'^^■nuna,'
^^'^' yuan
''^elc and
l'AT.\(i(>N'IAV FAl'N'A.
SOS
> C.r-
Tlu-
)S(' ill*'
. ^lo-
, cVi'VV-
ii\ till'
(\(' vi\i'r
,1 of t\io
^nivly oil.' ^
r(tun*\ til'"
ul tiistinii; :
\,iti' niniu'
a nil two < if ;.
io sterile a
|^vluc•ll uvo^"
i-c essential;
In no «i;uaiio|
lins of tlie]
lavouvs tiief
oria ^^'"i"^3
Islantls oil
the PoniviiiM (Miast ; aiid lliis kind of' climate iipiMsirs also to
lie iKii'ticnliii'ly Ji^Tt'Oiil)!*' to the sea-birds.
('onMideriiiy tlie oxceHsive aridity of Piifii^'oula, it seeniH
Kurjirislii^- that the eomitry sliould be traversed tVom west
te east by siicb cojisideraide rivers as tlie I'io Nej^ro, the
tlalle<;-<»s, and the Santa Cruz; but all these have their sources
ill tlie Andes, and are led by mountain torrents, whirh no
(l(Mibt derive their waters from the atmospherical preeipi-
t;iti(»ns (»f the I'acilic.
The z(»olon-y (d' I'ataLTonia is as limited as its tlt»ra, and
<^rcatlj resembles in its character tliat (d'the mountain rej^'ions
(if Chili, or of the Puna or lii^ih tableland of the tropical
Andes of Peru and JJolivia, the height of which varies from
lo.ooo to 1 l,<MM> feet above the level of the sea.
In all these countries, situated in such ditVerent latitudes,
tlic explorer is astonished to find not only the same p'uera,
hut even animals of the same species. The forest -l(tvin<;' race
iif monlcey^s is nowhere to be found in treeless Pataji'onia.
None of the rpiadrumana ventures farther south than 2*.)'' lat.,
but on the borders of the liio Nej^'ro, the northern boundary
nf Patajj;-onia, some small bats are seen fi uttering- about in the
twiliij'ht.
The dark brown yellow-lieadi'd Odltctis viffnta, an animal
allied to the Civets and Clenets, is likewise found there, but
much more frequently its relation the Zorilla, -which rang-es
from 'Hf lat. to the Strait of Ma<,'ellan, and like the skunk
I'f the north, has the power of discharg'inj^ a lluid of an
int(»lerably fetid odour.
The <^'uanaco is the characteristic quadruped of the plains
if Patag-onia, wdiere it is no less nseful to man than the wild
niudeer to the savaf^e hunters of the north. It ranges from
tln' CV»rdillera of Peru as far south as the islands near C/ai)e
Horn, but it appears to be more frequent on the plains of
>!i>uth Patagonia than anyAvhero else. It is of g-reater size
'luiu the llama, and resembles it so much that it was suj)-
jiosed to be the wild variety, until Tschudi, in his ' Fauna
PtTuana/ pointed out the specific dift'erence between both.
The guanaco is a more elegant animal, with a long, slender
I neck and fine legs ; its tieece is shorter and less fine ; its
50G
THI-: I'OI.AIJ U'UUI.L).
colour is brown, the under parts being" whitish, ft f>;eneriillv
lives in small herds of from half a dozen to thirty in each ;
but on the banks of the Santa Cru/, Mr. Darwin saw one
herd which contained at least iive liundred. Thuiij^h ex-
tremely shy and wary, it is no match for the cunning' of
the sava<^-e ; and, before the horse was introduced into Pata-
gonia, man most probably could not have existed in those
arid plains without the guanaco. It easily takes to the
water, and this accounts for its presence on the eastern
islands of Fuegia, where it has been followed by the puma.
or American lion, who likewise pursues it on the plateaus of
the Cordillera, 12,000 feet above the level of the sea.
The Brazilian fox {Cants Azar(v) is also met Avitli as far as
the strait. It is somewhat smaller than our fox, but inoic
robustly built. In Patagonia it preys chiefly upon the snuill
rodents, with which the land, in si)ite of its sterility, is
perhaps more richly stock' 'd than any other country in the
world. Among these the . acutuco {Ctenomys maijdbiuicn),
which may briefly be described as a gnawer with the liabits
of a mole, is one of the most remarkable. It abounds m-ar
the strait, where the sandy plain is one vast burrow of these
creatures. This curious animal makes, when beneath the
ground, a very peculiar noise, consisting of a short nasal
grunt, monotonously repeated about four times in quick suc-
cession, the name tucutuco being given in imitation of llic
soimd. Where the animal is abundant, it may be heard
at all times of the day, and sometimes directly beneath one's
feet. The tucutuco is nocturnal in its habits ; its food con-
sists chiefly of roots, the search after which seems to be the
cause of its burrowing. r
Among the indigenous quadrupeds of Patagonia, w<' fmd.
moreover, a species of agouti {Busy procta pat n<joni<'a) , whi-Ii i^
in some measure represents our hare, but is about twice the
'A'le^ and has only three toes on its hind feet ; the elei^'unt j
long-eared mara [DoUrhotis patatjonieus), which, unlike luo-^t
burrowing aninuils, wanders, commonl3'two or three togetlii r.
for miles from its home: the IJuIelji/tis Azanr, a species ct'
opossum ; and the pichy (DdKypns muiutus), a small arniadi!!".
which extends as far south as 50^ lat.
It would be vain to seek amouij the Patau'onian birds !■ i'
It g-eiierally
dy in eaoh ;
,'in Siiw one
Tlioii;^h c.x-
cimniii<j;" (if
1 into Piitu-
;ed in those
alecs to the
the eastern
ly the puma.
? phiteaus of
sea.
ith as tar as
)x, but more
on the small
sterility, is
untry in the
niagelldiiira),
h the habits
ibonnds near
I'ow ot" these
beneath the
short nasal
in quick suo-
;ation of the
ay be heard
)eneath one's
its food eon-
iias to he the
onut we
find.
onica), whi'-!i
out twice tilt'
, the ele^'ai'.t
, unlike iiie-t
iree toj^'etlni'.
a species <<(
all arniadiil".
ian birds
<1'0 splendid pluniaov. of fh., i • , '"'^^
r'''"'«. which are their h^e T' '',*^^"'' "^ *^^« "^^I^'-l
---• regions of An.erica li^if ft^f '"'^ f i'^"^^' «^ «-
'' f;^ ^'S-ouia. When a lior.e ch," ?"^^"' '^'' ''^^^ ^vastes
-• ^^^n-st, the Turkey-bn.. 'l nn ^'""''^' ^^'""' ^'^^''^"^
;^-- its carcase, a,;ll ^nU^l^-'r"^ '^^"'^ *« ^^^.t
"''-^) -'ul the chin^an!." ^./!""'^ ^^^^^^-- ^'-/.
'7- clean. Thono,, thj^^^/'j ^^^^^ /'^^--V^ pick its
I'l'^ce of our carrion-cro^v^ n ' "'^ ^^'^^" «"PPlj the
M in common, they ^1 k t' ^^^'"'^ ""^^ ^''^^'^^"«' 8-0"eralIv
^^1- the carr;nchi tc^XTr,"^ ^^ tWendi/iboS
-, or on the ground, Z^n^^S ''^ ''""'''' ^^' '^
J^^"^ imo flying, backwards and T^ ? '" '""^^'^"^^^ for a,
-uicrcle, t^^in. each ti ^ ^^ ^t' ^^^^ ^"^^^ ^«-"' "^ ^^
stnke Its larger relative, wM;h ^ ""i: ^ '' ''^ ^"^-' ^o
bobbing Its head. The carr.n7.l , ^^^ "^^i^^' ^''^'cq>t by
^Iryand open countries ^k n ''-"'"^'^ ^^ ^-""-" in the
«- P-ifie, is also fbi. d "hi;""!? "^ ^^^ -•"! «i--s "f
S;onia and Tierra del Pu :lo ^ ""/^^^ ^^^^^^^s of West Pata-
^I'^^n the carranclia. Of -aUlJ ':^^""''"^S-o is much smaller
;^- last which leaves tl:^^:;::;^- f^'^' ^t is general);
requently be seen within the Hb 0/ 1'"' '^"""^l^and ma^
bolund a grating, u i, fi;;:f^j^,^ ^^--' '^k^ a prisoned
-J;;>;o It lives on small fishes ^ ""'^ "" '^^^' ■^^^■'^"^oast,
J^he condor mav lil
'V^"'«- In the ti t "s tiX™', '""•'"-'•' "'• 'J''".™
» "■'' tl.e crowned fal™,, ^^,.:^ ''"'"' '""'' "f P.vy, to
'"■oared b„z„,rd (»»/.„ (,,vi .t I'"'":""""' "'« tLree-
„"""). and several other. „ , , ' ' .T"," '""'" ''^"''«'"«
*«t of then, are likewise ,2^^^ * " ' ""■ ■'" '"■""■T-
;"">■;;■.•• witi, the ae,e„eele..i tril . i'^'fV'":' ""''"^'i"""- ^"
irii
ly banks of the st
'niciis
•)\e
the R
lo N
eyr
i''Ut, and retires to
aves in winter tl
'larhler
{Orph
■0, where it iueets i\
tlie 2nilder sk
le
"-"•'''i>'"'",'/"/^/'v^s-), the
n
it^ tuneful />ati.
inible troglod^.t^ (/
les
igonian
<tl(j
508
THE rOLAU WORLD.
dytes paU'ida), and the iiicoiistaut fly-en tclior {Mnxcinii,,
liarvuhiii).
A peculiar species of ostrich, the nandii {Rhea Darwin!)
roams over the plains of southern Pata<i;'onia, as far as tlio
Strait of Mag'ellan. It is smaller than the South American
ostrich [Illiea amcricana), ^vhich inhabits the country of La
Plata, as far as a little south of the Rio Neg-ro; but it is
more beautiful, as its white feathers are tipped with black at
the extremity, and its black ones in like manner terminate
in white.
In the same hig-li hititude one is surprised to meet with a
member of the parrot tribe, Pxiittucus patcuioutcuK, fcediijn-
on the seeds of the winter's bark, and to see hummin<jf-bir(l.s
{Trocldlus forficatus) llittin<jf about during the snow-storms in
the forests of Tierra del Fuego.
The plains of Patagonia are inhabited by a race of Indians
supposed to be gigantic, but the descriptions of modern
travellers have dispelled the idea. Thus Pigafetti, the com-
panion of Magellan, relates that the Europeans only reach t(»
the waist of the Patagonians ; Simeon de Weert tells us that
they are from 10 to 11 feet high ; Byron, who visited them
in the last century, reduces them to 7 feet, and Captain
King finally, who accurately measured them, found tho
medium lieight of tlie males about five feet eleven inches.
As the Patagonians have most likely not degenerated within
the last few centuries, we may infer from these Aarious
accounts, that the travellers of the present day are less pronr
to exaggeration than those of more ancient times. So nnieh
is certain, that the Patagonians are a fine athletic race of |
men, with remarkably broad shoulders and thick nmsenlar
IL^s. The head is long, broad, and flat, and the forelieaJ
l^P^ with the hair growing within an inch of the eyebrnws.
which are bare; the eyes are often placed obliquely, and havf
but little expression ; the forehead and the large lips aiv [im-
minent, so that if a perpendicular line were drawn between IJ
the two, the thick flat nose would hardl}- rcaeh it, and hut
seldom project beyond it. In spite of these coarse features tin'
physiognomy of the young girls is by no means unpleasant
as it has an amiable, lively expression. All of them liavoj
small hands and feet, and D*(Jrbigny says that they IkivcJ
(ho
have
l>y tl
old n
Th
oftlu
IJiOst
at var
hinnai
TJie
eight i
the fas
liangiii
iico ski
^\eathe]
\vith tlj
iiiented
iiorse-le
^" nvu ke
ill u.se.
^'Heathe
it witli i
face is
i'atagoni
*'<' carri(
'<'iumon
"i' eradio
''•''jiientJ'
i'1'ieer.s.
Tlie reJ
fJi"se of tl
'livine Ac
"f good a:
"limber of
"'Jii(-hcan
i'ilvc tlie si
I'l'stors W(.
Pi-edict thi
'Mh', but
"■^'iiiay jinl
PATAGONIAX FASHIONS.
A09
the finest sluqx's of all the savages lie saw. Tlioug'li they
have a Avide mouth ami thick li])s, this fault is redeemed
l»_v their beautiful white teeth, which never fall out even in
old age.
The colour of the Patagonians is much darker than that
of the Pann)as Indians, and others further to the north, and
most closely resembles that of the mulatto ; a fact totally
at variance with the common belief that the darkness of the
human skin increases on approaching the equator.
The chief garment is the manuhe, a wide, square mantle —
eight feet long and nearly as broad — which they wear after
the fashion of the ancient Greeks and Romans, with one end
hanging down to the earth. Tr generally consists of guan-
aco skins neatly sewn together with ostrich sinews. In cold
weather the manulK"', which serves also as a blaidcet, is worn
with the hair inside ; the even surface is therefore orna-
mented Avith red drawings. Sometimes they wear boots of
horse -leather, like the Gauchos, from Avhom they have learnt
tu make rii- ni ; formerly sandals of guanaco-skin were alone
hi use. iheir long black hair is tied behind with a thong
of leather, or a piece of ribbon ; the women plait and adorn
it with a number of ornaments of glass and copper. The
fiice is generally painted red, white, and black, and a
Patagonian is never seen without the little pouch in which
he carries the necessary colours. A renuirkable custom,
tummoai to all the Indian tribes as far as Bolivia, is that
of eradicating the hairs of the beard, and tin.' men nuiy
frecpiently be seen plucking them out with a pair of
pincers.
The religious ideas of the Patagonians greatly resend^le
those of their neighbours the Aucas and the Puelches. Th<'
divuie Achekenat Kanet is reverenced as the genius Ppli
<A good and evil ; but beside this chief deity they have a
nuiul)er of inferior spirits, generally of a malignant nature,
uh'k-h can be held in check only by the arts of their nuigicians.
Like the shamans, or medicine-men of the north, these im-
postors work themselves into an ecstatic state, in which they
prtMlict things to come, or announce the will of the luiseen
u'uls ; but their trade does not seen; to l)e very lucrative if
wciuav pulu'c frnni th^:' bad coudiLinn of their uiaiit K',-. They
510
Tin-: roLAii world.
also act as pi) ysicians, for all diseases are invariably ascribitl
to the ajj^ency of evil spirits.
The Patagonians are quite as superstitious as the Indians
of the liif^h northern latitudes. They seldom cut their lijiir,
but when they do, they cast it into the river, or carefully
burn it, so that it may not fall into the hands of some nuiiii,''-
nant inayician who might use it to the hurt of its quondani
owner. When, on journeyino' along a river, they see some
trunks of trees descending with the current, they take them for
evil si)irits, and address them with a loud voice. If by chance
the trees are swept by less rapidly, or are driven round in a
whirlpool, they believe that this takes place for the purpose
of hearing them. They then make them liberal promises,
which they faithfully keep. They cast their weapons, their
ornaments, sometimes even their horses with bound feet, into
the Avater, fully persuaded that ^.y this sacrifice they have
averted the misfortunes that otherwise would have befalli-n
them. Like many other savage nations, they believe in a
future paradise, where they expect to find again all that they
prized on earth. For this reason they immolate t)vor the
graves of their friends all the animals that belonged to them,
and inter with them all they possessed.
The astronomical laiowledge of the Patagonians is sur-
2)rising in a people ranking so low in the scale of civilisutioii.
(.Continually migrating over their arid land, they soon felt the
necessity of directing their movements during the Jay by
the position of the sun, during the night by the stars ; and
thus they gradually learnt to observe the march of the (mhi-
stellations, and to note the times of their appearance ami
disappearance, giving them names, so as to be able tn
communicate their observations to each other. Their li\ely
fancy traces in the stany Mrmament tlie picture of th-'
Indian's hunting expe^lition. The milky way is the path ou
which he follows the ostrich ; the ' Three Kings ' are thebolas
or balls with which he strikes the bird whose feet form the
Southern Cross; and the Magellanic clouds are heap.'- of 1
its feathers that have been collected by its pursuer.
When the Patagonians speak of the direction tlu-y int<Miil
to follow, from north to soutli or from east to west, tluv
al\vav^^ in<lirii1e the constellations; so that in these boutli
rATAGOXlAX TRIBIOS.
:.ii
idiiius
Lair,
•e fully
uuli;^-
juduui
i some
lein foi'
eliinuM!
nd ill a
^iii'YJOs^
oiniH'-'!''
IS, tbeiv
■et, into
ey have
iDefalli'ii
.>ve in "'i
hat tliey
ovov the
to tlieiii,
is sui'-
|ilis;iti«"i.
I felt thi'
|. Jay l->y
lirs; iind
the ('"H-
uec and
al)k' tn
I'ir lively
of ill-'
patli oil
diol>olii>
oriii tlif
£-A
loav?
of
[v iuti'tiu
.'St. th' ;
American plains, ;is in those of Chaldea, ii similar necessity
has led man to lay the first foundations of astronomical
knowledge.
The Patagonians are divided into a number of small
migratory tribes, each consisting of, at the utmost, thirty or
forty families. As they live exclusively by the chase, it is
evident that a few days would suffice to destroy or to drive
away the game of a great extent of territory were the}' to
assemble in larger numbers. Not to perish of want, they are
thus compelled to wander from place to place in small com-
panies, and to carry along with them their leathern toldos
or tents. The toldo reposes on a frame of poles stuck into
the earth, and is scarcely higher than six feet in its centre, so
that one can hardly imagine how a family of tall Patagonians
can live in so small a space. The door is invariably to the
east, so that earl 'n the morning the chief of the family may
sprinkle before it few drops of water as an offering to the
rising sun, for were this sacritice to be neglected, the evil
spirits would infallibly wreak their vengeance upon the in-
mates of the tent. Horse-bides, or guanaco skins coarsely
sewn tog'^^her, cover the frame, and afford but a scanty pro-
tection against the rain and the much more frequent wind.
At the top, as in the Laplander's hut, an opening is left to
let out the smoke. The hearth is in the middle, and close
by lie some earthen vases, and large volute shells which serve
as drinking horns. The inmates lie on skins, or sit in a
I'orlier cross-legged, after the Oriental fashion. The excessive
iiltli of these wretched tenements makes their jioverty appear
still more squalid than it really is. Thirty or forty toldos
form a migratory village or tolderia. Though the dreadful
-mall-pox epidemic from 1801> to 1812 destroyod whole tribes
■ f Patagonians, their present number may still be estimated
It from eight to ten thousand ; a small one when compared
'vith the size of the country, yet large enough when we con-
■'Itr the sterile nature of its soil and the vast space of
i' self neecled to feed a sufficient number of guanacos and
a-ses for ilie wants of even a scanty populatiuii. Each
'lilriia a])pears to have its territory liu'ited by the hunt-
U-^rounds of it^ neiglilxnirs, Itiit e<iiiiniorcial transac-
ii> tahe place I'etweeii the \ari'»ii.> 1imIh>, and <Keasion
5V2
THI-: POLAR WORLD.
loiii^-cr jourueyH. One of the chief trading rontes runs
iilong the eustern foot of tlie Andes, from the Strait of
Ma^-ellan to the Rio Neij^ro, as water is here everywhere
foniid; another, leading- parallel with the coast from tin-
Rio Negro to Port St. Julian and Port Desire, is only
fre<|nented in the rainy season, and even then there are wide
spaces without any sweet water, and where it is necessary to
travel night and day so as to avoid the danger of dying of
thirst.
Every year the various Patagoniaii tribes wander to the
sources of the Rio Negro, where they provide themselves with
Arnucaria seeds, which serve them as food, or Vvith ajiples,
wdiich have multiplied on the eastern spurs of the Andes in
the same astonishing manner as the peach trees near the
months of the La Plata. Tlie apple tree was introduced by
the first Spaniards who inhabited the Chilian Andes soon
after the conquest ; and when later the intniders were expelk;d
by the victorious Arancanians, the imtives found their country
enriched by this valuable acquisition.
One of the chief bartering rendezvous is the island Cholo-
chel, which is formed by two arms of the Rio Negro, alxmt
eighty leagues from the mouth of the river. Here the
Patagoniaii exchanges his guanaco skins for the articles
which the Puelches, his northern neighbours, either fabricate
Ihemselves or procure in a more easy manner by stealiii<(
them from the white settlers in their neighbourhood. This
bartering tr;'do is very ancient, and has always existed ex-
cepting ill times of war. In this manner the Patagoiiians
were provided with horses, soon after the introdnetioii of
this valuable animal into the New World; and thus also
articles of Spanish manufacture soon found tlieir wa\- as far
as the Strait of Magellan.
At present there seems to be pence among all the Pata-
goniaii tribes, which consider themselves as bri)thers, thoiich
freciuently separated several hundred leagues from each
other.
Their system of government is very simple. Th-' Avlielr
nation has a chief or great cacique, whom they call carasken.
and whose authority is very limited. In war, he presides in
the assembly of the minor ehieft>. aiul has tho supreme roiu-
PATAU ( ).\ I A \ CUSTU M HS .
r>\ii
vvuis
x\i of
where
HI the
i only
wide
sary to
yiiig of
to the
ves with
Viules in
iieiiv til''
lueed ity
des soon
} expelled
Li- country
nd Ch.de-
To, id>ont
Here tli<'
virtieles :,■
fai>ric'ate ;
^. stealin'^'
lod. Tiiis ;:
xisted ex-
tuu'oniaiis
\iu-tion "f
tluis :ds"
way 11!^ t''^'
the Pata-
Vs. tlionL'lv
ciira?iveii.
[resides 111
L-rnie roui-
maiul in battle. In peaee, liis swjiy is confined to his own
tribe, lie is as poor iis his snbjeets, and far from enjoy in<^
a copions civil list, is obli^vd to hnnt i'w his snbsistenee lik*^
every other Patiiy-onian ; the only advantii^e ho owes to his
exalted station being- a somewhat lar^-er share of th<» pro-
duets of the chase ; and this he is obli^-ed to distribute amon<^
the more needy of his followers, to maintain his influence.
The dignity of carasken is not always hereditary. To suc-
ceed his father, the son must first prove by his eloquence,
his courage, and his liberalitv, that he is worthy to succeed
him ; and if he is found Avaiiting, the Indian most distin-
guished by his moral and intellectual (pialities is elected in
his place.
The Patagonians are yery- awkward fishermen ; they
merely catch what chance throws into their hands, and arc
unacquainted with nets, or any other piscatorial artifice. In
this resjiect they are totally different from the Fuegians, who
iltvive their chi<'f subsistence from the sea. They have ever
lit.'cu a nation of hunters, and before the introduction of the
horse, they pursued their game on foot, using their bolas
with great dexterity for the destruction of the Lt'uauiico and
ihe ostrich. Their dogs afforded them a yaluable assistance,
;iud since they haye become accoiu] dished horsemen, their fh'et
coursers eiuil)le them to oyertake with ease all the animals
of the wilderness. In times of scarcity they dig for a small
•oot. Avhieh is either eaten fresh or preserved dry. Horse
ii sli is their favourite food.
The Patagonian toldos and their weapons are yery rudely
ladc, but their skin mantles are not nntastefully oriuimented
ith rectilinear figures. In their war dress they haye a yery
h'tuis appearance, and it would be difficult to imagine a
ji'uv <liab(dical figure than that of a tall Patagonian ready
I'v a tight, his broad face painted scarlet, with black or blue
<uiiM's under the eyes, and his coarse features distorted with
|inrv. Their arms are bows and arrows, with points of flint
'<^'1y attached with sinews, so as to remain sticking in the
I. Thev are excellent archers, and ns<i with skill the
U'^'. the javelin, and above all their formidable bolas, Avhich
wve them both for bringing the guanaco to the grounti, or
|r breaking the skull of an onemy. When not engaged in
L L
; -.1
614
THH POLAR \VOTl[.T).
h
war or in the chase, llie ineii, like nxjst siivao'cs, ])ass tlitii
time in absolute idleiioss, lcavin<^' all Iho liotis(.'L(»l<l work to
the Avouien. Aniiisemonts they have but few. The use of
dice they have learnt from the Si)aniar(ls. They arc said to
bo a false and deceitful people, but their hospitality and oood
nature have been frequently extolled by travellers.
I
■J'ho Gu.maco.
-*- nioi
'J'c sealt
^ninia
l^nowhut
'it-' Avret(
'^■''uldbet
■i'iiiii.st e
Cut ev(
■'^ilisatio
I"'ii.'ibit t]
. - - — 5.*^ - -to- i . - " ■ * ."^^
Staton Island -Ca])(.; lloru.
(Frrm an oriijinal skotrl: by Fie'I'Tirk Wiyrnp' • )
CHAPTER XL.
THE FUEGIANS.
Their miserable Condirion — Degradation of Body and INIind — Powers of J\lin>ii-rv
— Notions of Bartor-Cansos of their low Stalo of Cnllivation — 'I'litir l-'ond —
Limpets — Cyttaria Darwini — Constant Migrations — The Fncgian Wigwam —
Weapons — Their prohable Origin— Their Number, and varlons Trilie« — Con-
stant Feuds — Cannilialism — Language — Adventures of Fuegia Basket. Jemmy
r.atton, and York ]Minster--]\rissionary Labours — Captain Gariliner — Hi*
ianientabl'' End.
11IIE wilds of Tierra del Fueg-o are inhabited by a race of
- men generally supposed to occupy the lowest grade in
the scale of humanity. In a far more rig-orous climate, the
Esquimaux, their northern antipodes, exhibit skill in their
>no\v huts, their kayaks, their weapons, and their dress ; but
[the wretched Fuegians are ignorant of every useful tirt that
ffnild better their condition, and contrive scarcely any defence
siraiust either rain or wind.
But even among the Fuegians there are various grades of
vilisation — or rather barbarism. The eastern tribes, which
|;uliabit the extensive plains of King Chaides' South Land,
L L 2
516
THH POLAIl WOULD.
Hoeiii closely Jilliod to tlio riitu<,'oniiiiis, iiiul are ii vory dillcr-
ent race from the uiulcr.sized wretches further westward. A
manile of o-uaiiaco skin, with the wool outside — the iisuul
Pata|,'ouian jjfariuent — loosely thrown over their shoulders,
and leavinj^^ their persons as often exposed as covered,
affords them some protection a<j;'ainst the piercing- wind.
The condition of the central trihes inhabiting- the south-
western bays and inlets of this dreary country, is much
more miserable. Those further to the west possess se;il
slvins, but here the men are satisfied with an otter skin
or some other covering* scarccdy larf^-er than a pocket luind-
kerchief. It is hiced across the breast by strin<^-s, iiiid
accordiuL;- as the wind blows it is shifted from side to side.
But all have not even tliis wretched giirment, for near
W(dlaston Island, Mr. Darwin saw a canoe with six Fueo-ians,
one of whom was a wonuin, naked. It was rainini;' hea\ ily,
and the fresh water, together with the spray, trickled dowu
their bodies. In another harbour, not far distant, a woman.
who Avas sucklin<>; a recently-born child, came one day ahini;-
side the vessel, and remained there out of mere curiosity,
Avhilst the sleet fell and tluiwed on her naked b()Som and on the
skin of her naked baby ! These poor wretches Avere stunted
in their gTowth, their faces bedaubed Avith Avhite iiainl.
their skins filthy, their hair cntano-led, their voices discordant,
and their gestures violent.
The Fueg-ians Avliom Cook met Avitli in Christmas Sound
were equally Avretclied. Their canoes Avere made of the l)aik
of trees stretched over a framcAvork of sticks, and the paddlt-
which serA^ed to propel these miserable boats Avere snudl|
and of an equally miserable Avorknumship. In each cano<'
sat from fiA'^e to eight persons, but instead of greeting the
strangers Avitli the joyful shouts of the South Sea Islandci'.s.i
they roAA'ed along in perfect silence ; and even AA'hen qmti'j
close to the vessel, they only uttered from time to tiun'j
the Avord ' Pe'scheriih ! ' After repeated invitations s^ninoj
of these savages came on board, but Avithout exhibiting tlioj
least sign of astonishment or curiosity. None Avere abuvoj
5 feet 4 inches high ; they had large heads, broad faces, Avitl
prominent cheek-bones, Hat noses, small and lack-ln.>tn
eyes; and their black hair, smeared Avith fat, hung in
nc \[\
m
lin-c
'iin any
(I sueli
Seiilt it i
Tiir: rrRGiAXf.
;i7
l. A
\is\iul
ll*\0V8,
\vin*l.
sout\i-
ev skill
it lii\ud-
gs, 'dwX
to side,
for nrwv
i^acgiaus,
.• lieavily,
led tlt'^^'i^ '
a wowau.
by alon---
cuviosity,
e stuutt'i^l
ito I'a'ni^.
iseovcl'.nit,
..^s Hound
it' tlie ^)avlc
he paddW-^
[eve siuull.
lacli cviuo<'
[eetiug tlif
Islanders.
aion n^ii^>'
le to tiw''
lions
joUlO
Ibitin^j; tlni
^'ere alx'voj
faces, ^vitll
lack-lustv'
liung ii'
iiiiittod looks over their slionMors. Instead of a l)enril, their
chin exhibited a few stra;4'^lin<,' bristles, and their Avholo
iippoarance aft'orded a strikin<^ pietnro ol' iibject misery.
Tlioir shoulders and breast were broad and stnm^-ly bnilt,
bat the extreinities of the body so nien^n-e and shrivelled,
that one eonld hardly realize the fiutt that they beh)n^(d to
till' upper part. The le^^'s were eroolced, the knees dispro-
lioi'tiouately thiek. Their sole i^arnieut eonsisted of a small
pie'-'e of seal skin, attaehed to the neek by means of a cord,
ntherwise they were quite naked ; but even these miserable
irtMtures had made an attempt to decorate their olive-
brewu skin with some strii:)es of ochre. The women were
as ugly as the men. Their food consisted of raw, hall-
liutrifl seal's flesh, Avhich made them smell so horribly,
lliiit it was impossible to remain lonfjf near them. Their
iutollig'once was on a par with the tilth of their bodies.
The most expressive signs wore here of no avail. Gestures
vliirh the most dull-headed native of any South Sea island
iiniuediately understood, these savages either did not, or
"iiuld not give themselves the trouble to comprehend. Of
:!io superiority of the Europeans they appeared to have no
ilea, never expressing by the slightest sign any astonishment
it the sight of the sliij) and the various objects on board. It
[fould however be doing the Fuegians injustice to suppose
lioiu all on .a level with these wretches. According to
|Furster, they were most likely outcasts from the neighbour-
g- tribes.
^Ir. Darwin, as well as Sir James Eoss, describes the
'ueiiians whom they met with in the Bay of Good Success,
'1 on Hermit Island, as excellent mimics. ' As often as
f: coughed or j-awned,' says the former, ' or made auy odd
I'jtion, they immediately imitated us. Some of our i^arty
•:a\i to squint and look awry, but one of the young Fuegians
fliose whole face was painted black, excep>ting a Avhite
kid across his eyes) succeeded in making far more hideous
iinaces. They could repeat with perfect correctness each
r-l in an}' sentence wo addressed them, and they romem-
'vd such words for some time. Yet we all know how
fficult it is to distinguish apart the sounds in a foreign
■i'liaw.'
IMAGE EVALUATION
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I.I
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Ilia
m
m
M
IM
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^
^^
\\
o^
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'%'■
23 WEST MAIN STREET
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fc" «?<
51S
THE I'OLAK WORLD.
Close to the junction of Ponsonby Sound with the Bcii^'l.'
Channel, where Mr. Darwin and his party spent the night, a
small family of Fuegians soon joined the strangers round a
blazing fire. Tney seemed well pleased, and all joined in the
chorus of the seamen's songs. During the night the lU'ws
had spread, and early in the morning other Fuegians iirrived.
Several of these had run so fast that their noses were bleeil-
ing, and their mouths frothed from the rapidity with which
they talked ; and with their naked bodies all bedaubed with
black, white, and red, they looked like so many demons.
These people plainly showed that they had a fair notion
of barter. Mr. Darwin gave one man a large nail (a iii(»st
valuable present) without making any signs for a return ;
but he immediately picked out two fish, and handed them \\i)
on the point of his spear. Here at least we see signs <il'
a mental activity, favourably contrasting with the stolid
indifierence of the Fuegians seen by Forster at Christmas
Harbour; and Mr. Darwin is even of opinion, that in general;
these people rise above the Australians in mental powei,]
although their actual acquirements may be less.
The reason why the Fuegians are so little advanced in tlioj
arts of life, are partly to be sought for in the nature of thoj
land, and partly in their political state. The portlil
equality among the individuals in each tribe must rotaiili
their civilisation; and until some chief shall arise witlij
power sufficient to secure any acquired advantage, biul
as the domesticated animals, it seems scarcely possible
that their condition can improve. But the chief causes <'i
their wretchedness are doubtless the baiTenness c>f thoiij
country and their constant forced migrations.
With the exception of the eastern part, the hahitabl^
land is reduced to the stones on the beach. In soaiv
of food they are compelled to wander from spot to spot!
and so steep is the coast, that they can only move about i|
their canoes. Whenever it is low water, winter or suniiiit'ij
night or day, they must rise to pick limpets from the rocl^
and the women either dive to collect sea-eggs, or sit patiintll
in their boats, and with a baited hair-line, without aiij
hook, jerk out little fish. If a seal is killed, or the ll<':i(
ing carcase of a putrid whale discovered, it is a feast; iim
FUK(JIAX IJAUBAIUSM.
519
such miserable food is assisted by a few tasteless ben-ies,
chieHy of a dwarf arbutus, or by a globular briglit yellow
fungus {Ci/ttttrla Dnrwinii), which grows in vast numbers on
tlie beech trees. When young, it is elastic, with a smooth
surface ; but, when mature, it shrinks, becomes tougher,
and has its entire surface deeply pitted or honey-combed,
hi this mature state it is collected in large quantities by
the women and children, and is eaten uncooked. It has a
mucilaginous, slightly sweet ta.ste, with a faint smell like that
of a mushroom.
The necessity of protecting themselves against the ex-
tremity of cold, and of obtaining their food fpun the sea, or
by the chase of the reindeer or the white bear, forces the
Esquimaux to exert all their fticulties, and thus they have
raised themselves considerably higher in the scale of civili-
sation than the Fuegians, whose mode of life requires far
less exertion of the mind. To knock a limpet from the
rock, or to collect a fungus, does not even call cunning into
exercise. Living chiefly upon shell-fish, they are obliged
constantly to change their abode, and thus they hardly
bestow any thought on their dwellings, which are more like
the dens of wild beasts than the habitations of human
beings. The Fuegian wigwam consists of a fe^v branches
stuck in the ground, and very imperfectly thatched on one
side with a few tufts of grass and rushes. The whole cannot
be the work of an hour, and it is only used for a few days.
At intervals, however, the inhabitants of these wretched
liuts return to the same spot, as is evident from the piles
uf old shells, often amoimting to several tons in weight.
Those heaps can be distinguished at a distance l)y the bright
irreen colour of certain plants, such as the wild celery and
aiuvy grass, which invariably grow on them.
The only articles in the manufacture of which the Fuegians
4iow some signs of ability are a few ornaments and their
weapons, which again are far inferior to those of the
Esquimaux. Their bows are small and badly shaped, their
arnnvs, which are between two and three feet long, feathered
;it one end and blunted at the other. The points are only
attached when the arrow is about to be used, and for this
I'urposc the archer carries them about with him in a leathern
520
Tin: POLAU WOULD.
pouc'li. The shaft of tlitur lar^'or spears is about ten U-vi
loiifjr, jiiul equally thick at both eiuls. At one of the fxlrt*-
mitie.H is a Hssiire, into which a pointed bone with a barl»0(l
hook is insortecl and ti<,'htly bound with a thread. With this
weajxtn they most probably attack the seals ; they also use it
to detach the shell iish from the rocks below the surface of
the water. A second spear, lonj^'erand lighter than the lirst,
with a barbed point, serves most likely as a weapon of war:
and a third one, much shorter and comparatively thin, may
perliJijis be destined for the birds. The females know how
to make ]>retty necklaces of coloured shells and basketf* of
{•rjj.ss stalks. Here, as with all other races of mankind,
we find the <j;'erms of imi»rovement, which only rt'((uire lor
their development the external impulse of more favoiu-ahlo
circumstances.
If it be asked whether they feel themselves as miseniMt!
as their wretched appearance would lead us to believe tluni,
it must be replied that most travellers describe them as
a cheerful, ^ood-humoured, contented peo})le ; and as Mr.
Darwin iinely remarks, ' Nature, by making' habit oiiuii-
potent and its effects hereditary, has fitted the Fue<^'ian to
the climate and the productions of his country.'
The number of these sava<j;es is no doubt very small, as
seldom more than thirty or forty individuals are seen to-
gether. The interior of the mountainous islands, which is
as little known as the interior of Spitzbergen, is no doubt
eom])h.'tely luiinhabited ; as the coasts alone, with the ex-
ception of the eastern and more level part of the couiitrv,
whore the guanaco finds pasture, are able to furnish tho
means of subsist(Mice. The various tribes, separati'd from
each other by a deserted nt.'utral territta-y, are nevertheless
engaged in constant feuds, as quarrels are perpetually arising,'
about the possession of some limpet-l)ank or Hshing-staticii.
When at war they are cannibals ; and it is equally certain
that when pressed in winter by hunger they kill and devour
their old women before they kill th(>ir dogs, alleging as an
excuse that their dogs catch otters, and old women do
not.
It has not been jiscortained whether tlu^yhave any distinct
belief in a future life. They sometimes bury their dead in
KIKOFAN ( AN'NIHAMSM.
521
n i'l'fl
:h tiiist
I >i8t' it
f-.u-e *«f
)l" war:
in, mtiy
jki'ts of
^uivo t'"r
iiiseriil'U^
A'O tluMii,
Uk'Iu us
1 as Mr.
)it ouun-
le^uiii to
small, us
soon io-
wlueli 18
no (loiil)t
[i the ox-
c'ouiitvy.
iruisli tbo
litod iVoiu
,-t.rtlu"loss
llv avisitiir
lo--stati»iii.
ly certain
lid devour
,ino- as an
rouieu <1^'
ky distinct
dead in
eaves, niid soinotiiivs in the nionntain forests. Eaeh family
or tribe has a wizard, or conjnrinjjf doetiu-. Their lan;4na<;(%
of wliieh there are several distinct dialects, is lik(>wise little
knoAvn ; it is, however, far inferior to the copious and expres-
sive vocabulary of the Esquinuiux.
fn iHijl), while Captain Fit/roy was surveyi'.i<^th(» coasts ctf
Fuo<,'i}i, ho seized on a party of natives as liostafjes for the loss
cf a boat which had been stoh'U, and some of these natives,
as well as a child belon<,nn<Tf to another tribe, whom he bou^dit
for a pearl button, he toc»k with him to England, determinin-jf
to educate them at his own expense. One of them afterwards
(lied of the small-pox; but a youn^; girl, Fuegia IJaskct.and two
boys, Jemmy Button (thus named from his purchase money)
nnd York Minster (so called from the i,nvat ru^'i^'ed mountain of
York Minster, near Christmas Sound), were placed in a school
at Walthamstow, and nunvover had the hoiidui" of bciuL,' pre-
sented to Kino- William and C^ueen Adelaiile. Tliree years
Jemmy and his companions remained in England, at the
end of which time Captain Fitzroy was a^ain sent out to
ooutinue the survey, and took with him tliese three Fuegians,
inlending to return them to the place whence they had come.
In tliis, however, he was disap[)ointed ; but at their own
viMpiest York and Fuei^ia were, Avith Jemmy, deposited
at Woollya, a pleasant looking spot in Ponsonby Sound,
Ixlonging to Jemmy's tribe. His family, consisting of his
mother and three brothers, was absent at the time, but they
iirrived the following nu)rning. Jemmy recognised the sten-
tuiian voice of one of his bn)tliers at a prodigious distance,
but the meeting, as Mv. Darwin wliit witnessed the scene
I't'lutes, Avas less interejting than that between a h(»rse turned
out into a iield and an old companion. Tliere was no de-
monstration of affection; they simply stared for a short time
iit each other. Three large wigwams were l)uilt foi- them,
.'urdens planted, and an abundant supply of everything
landed for their use. Jemmy, who had become (piite a
liavourite on board, was short and fat, but vain of his per-
s'uul appearance; he used always to wear gloves, his hair
Uiis neatly cut, and he was distressed if his well-pidislied
shoos were dirtied. York was somewhat coarse and less
[iutolligent, though in some things he could be quick. He
JftW
521
Tin: roLAU WOULD.
bt'canio attached to Fucfjfiu, and as both were of tlie same
tribe, they became man and wife after their return to Tiena
del Fuejjo. She was the most intelligent of the three, and
quick in learning anything, especially languages.
Thus these semi-civilised savages were left among their
barbarous countrymen, with the hope that they might be-
come the means of improving their whole tribe ; but when
Captain Fit/roy returned to the spot twelve months after,
he found the wigwams deserted and the gardens trumjded
under foot. Jemmy came paddling up in his canoe, but
the dandy who had been left plump, clean, and well dressed,
was nt)W turned into a thin, haggard savage, with long
disordered hair, and naked, except a bit of a blanket round
his waist. He could still speak English, and said that
he had enough to eat, that he was not cold, and that liis
relations were very good people. He had a wife besides,
Avho was decidedly the best looking female in the company.
With his usual good feeling, he brought two beautiful otter-
skins for two of his best friends, and some spear heads and
arrows made with his own hands for the Captain. He had
lost all his property. York Minster had built a large canoe, and
with his wife Fuegia had, several months since, gone to his
own country, and had taken farewell by an act of consunnnate
villany. He persuaded Jemmy and his mother to come witli
him, and then on the way deserted them by night, stealinjj^
every article of their property. It was the opinion of all en
board that the cunning rogue had planned all this long before,
and that with this end in view he had desired so earnestly to
remain with Jemmy's tribe, rather than be landed on his
own country. Eight years after, an English vessel put into
a bay in the Magellans for water, and there was found a
woman, without doubt Fuegia Basket, who said, 'How do?\
1 have been to Plymouth and London.' York Minster \v;isi
also seen in 1851. From Captain Snow, commander of tlic
mission yacht, ' Allen Gardiner,' we have the last accounts ef'J
Jennny Button in 1855. Twenty-three years had not ob-j
literated his knowledge of the English language, but ho was!
as wild and shaggy as his untaught countrymen. In spitoj
of his superior knowledge, he was treated as a very inferic
personage by the members of his tribe ; yet he declared that
CAITAIN (iAUDINKK.
.VJ.J
■iaino
iervii
, jukI
tlh'ir
it be-
lll'ti'l',
)e, but
ressetl,
li Ion*;
t rouinl
id tlvul
:liat liis
besiilos,
Diupany.
ul otter-
eads ami
He liiul
moo, aiul
lu' to lii>
sunnavite
Dine >vitli
stealin-^
of all on
<T bofove,
•uestly to
d on lii^^
put iiit"
ibuml a
IHow do":"!
[nstor NVii^ I
ler of thf I
■counts of]
a not ob-
[ut lie ^vil'^|
In ^I'i^i
i-y inlVri"
luiva that
1 hough he loved En<,'land, he loved his country still better;
that nothing should induce him to leave it, and that he would
never allow any of ins children to (luit their native soil.
Other efforts have been made to civilise the Fuegians.
A Spanish vessel having been shipwrecked on the eastern
eoast in 17(37, its crew was hospitably treated by the natives,
who even assisted in saving the cargo. Out of gratitude, the
governor of Buenos Ayres sent out some missionaries, who,
however, totally failed to make any impression (»n the savages.
A no less unsuccessful attempt w^as made about the year
I8:J5 by English missionaries ; and the expedition of Captain
tJardiner, who, accomi»anied by a surgeon, a catechist, and four
Cornish fishermen, sailed to Fuegia in IHol, with the inten-
tion of converting the natives, proved equally fruitless, and
had a far more tragic end. His measures for securing the
necessary supplies of food were so ill calculated, that the
whole party died of hunger in Spaniards' Harbour, on the
southern coast. Captain ISIorshead, of the 'Dido,' had
received orders i)n his way to Valparaiso to visit the scene of
the mission, and atford Captain (jJardiner any aid he might
reipiire, but, on arriving at the cove, he found it deserted.
After a few days' search the bodies were discovered, and
fragments of a journal written by Captain Gardiner gave
proof of the sufferings which they had endul'ed before death
relieved them from their misery.
[:^W^
P
"^
•'"■'n i
1
^A
\
130
170 West 180 Ea»t »70
'$■'
iV
— ••.\f
All iifs
tli,-i
-til,.
.\li-,\;i|
- Isl,.
AL'.rii
— aiK
I -llirisk;,
-rl,n
Illniii
•^i'll.'lllll
A.'ai M
vi.ks.
',',■■ II.,.,
■'.'iiiCiii
•!,.,■ II
-'■li.-irai
■^ r.iiii^r,
ID-
-!'.,. n.i
'-'lir tt-ll
111- mJ
■w.ilriij
|--lli>tni'i
• 'irst dj
INDEX.
AM-:
Vll|;l,Ii:, T.lTl", tliHcnv.T.V (tf. ISO
Ai^onli, the, of J'ataiiiiiiia, ofKi
At:riciiliiirc, slfiii' of, in Ictlaml, G'2
Aiu'iiii. Irmi V of, 'JHi
All', rcnmrkjildi' moixtiin- of tlir, in
'i'aitiiiirlaiiil, 2 \H
i(s |i(i'i>i liml niolioit in the AMio
/ontw. 'Jl!»
Akuriir. cIiIit (liick>t of. fil
.\llM>iii, the l{ns«<ian fort of, Imill. 209
ilisiiviycil 1"V tlu' Cliinisf, litit rc-
l.iiilt, 210'
Alli.iirosH, waiiilt rinir, of ilir Antiiivtii.'
-.•as 171
Al •vmiiaiiH on tlir I'odsis of (iri't iilaiul.
It
A! iitiaii Islan<ls, cjimms wliiili ltd totlio
liisruvci-y of till', 211, 21.')
— \i(\V of till', 2.S1 ;
..xtful of llii', ;ms '
Al. iits, tlirir wn'tclicd coiirlition iinil<T
llicir inaHlcrs. ."HI, .'U2
— tlii'ir skill and infrrjiidily in luint-
iiijr, ;{12-|j
Al. xaiidcr. <'ai>f, diHCorory of, {21
— Islaml, discuvcrv of. 4S0
Al;jii'in(' piratt s, ravagi'S of, in Iffland,
.so
— and in llw Wcslniann Island", 108
Alj.iska. disoDVcry of, 21*>
— .1 iiiati' ot'tlic', ;{07
iii.iuntains and forests of, 307
I Aiiiiannagja. di'si'ri|.lion of tlic, !'tCt
A t;ii .Mountains, iTo.-sfd l.y tiio Cos-
-iicks, 200
A,!r|i,(.()|ij)(.r mines of, 1 1!)
Ai'iiifjoi'd, vt'jfet.'itioii of tlie liui'ders of
•h.'.'llS, 11!)
':!■ ii<'a, N'ortli, ti'ecless zonc of, 4-8
l-tharaeter of tlie Conifei-e of. 8
|~ r.iiiu'e of tile caribou, or reindeer, of,
1 !t-2:{ I
|- tlir musk-ox of. 21 I
t!i.' white dolpliiu in tlio rivers of, 13 |
|- t!i' lilai'k dolpliin of, 4;{ !
Walruses of tlie sli.)res of. 4() •
I- history of the fur tnide of, '•M'i ct snj, •
l-tirst discoverers and settlers of, 877
AfU*
Anieriea. .Vortli.de-l ruction oftiieCircen-
iand eoiohies, 1)77
— Mll>sei|nelit discoveriew, .'^7."^ '/ .«"/•
— tlie Torso Kork, at I'oint D.-aso
Tliiini|'S()ii, .T91
-- atlenipts todiseo\er tlie XoHli-West -
ITII |iassa^'e to lllijia, .'I8!t rl .inj.
America, HiiNsiiin, its transfer to the
rniled ."States, ;U0, no/,:
Amur, I'ivr, diM'overy of lln'. l>y tlir
llu-siiiiis, 2(»!»
— wliii relin.|uis|| it to the ( 'liiiies,., 2IO
— tile eoinilry annexed l.y liiis^i.i, 21t»
.\n;ik('rdiiik, in Norlli (ireeiilaiiil. Imried
forest of, 13
Aiim'koks, or priests of the I'.s.|nimanx,
-.r.vi
Animals, comparatively small numl.er
of, in till- Arctic refrioiis. !>
— tiie forests the liead<iiiartei"s of many,
2.-)
-- of the Arctic seas. 40
— of the coasts of .sipifzlirrir.'n. 120
— fiir-liearint; animals of Si'.eria, 221
— the animals of Taimurland, 2.')1
— ot Nishne Kolymsk, 2().'J
— of Newl'oiinilland, 112
— no land animals in t!io Antarctic
riL'ioii. 470
— those of I'ataL'onia, .'tO't
AniiiJ. vegetalioiiof tli.'Valli yof the, 2^.T
— chief resouri'cof I he j pleof llic, 2<'>(J
Anjiiu, Lieut., his ,\rctii- ixplnrat inns,
•2.V.>, 200
Arhangel, fonndafinii <>t'. 20 I
.Vrehanirei. New, site of ihc town of, .'ill
— fur trade of, ;i| 1
me(lium ot' ex.'hiili^ic nt. .'ilO
.\r<'liers, th.' OMJaks as. I'.i'.t
.Vntic rejrions. rivers of ih.'. .'1
-- limits of the Arctii' re(^iuns, 4
— tho forest rf.f.nons, 4-S
— the treeless wastes, or 'I'lindra, 4, ."j
ill summer and winter. .'). (i
thi'ir extent aii'l lioiiieiariis, 7
— animal life in the Arcti,- re^iuiis, !)
— iniluencc of the se;i and winds on the
severity of the .\rctic winter, 1 1
5 20
INDKX.
AKC
Arctic regions, the lowest toniiieraturcs
felt by mail, 12
— how man becomes accustomed to the
rigours of an Arctic winter, 12, 13
— proofs of a former milder climate
in the northern regions of the globe,
13, 14
— beauties of Nature in these regions,
16
— land quadrupeds and birds, 17
— the seas of the Arctic regions, 29
— compared with the Antarctic regions,
465
Arctic voyages of discovery, history
jof, 377 ct seq.
Are Thorgilson, his Icelandic works, 79
Argali (^Ot'is arqali), of Siberia. 24, 217
Arrows of the Ostjaks, 199, 200
Ascidians on the coasts of Greenhind,
41
Ash, the, in the Arctic regions, 8
Asia, treeless zone of, 4-8
Athabascan Indians, hunting grounds of
the, 364
Athissoff, the Cossack, his treatment of
the natives of Kamtschatka, 21 1
Atmosphere, transparency of the, in the
polar regions, 36, 37
■ — phenomena of, reflection and retrac-
tion, and their probable causes, 37
Auk, the giant-, its rarity at present in
Iceland, 68, 102
Aurora borealis, 3
— splendour of the aiu'ora in the Arctic-
regions, 15, 16
— tei'ror of the Lapps at the, 157
Austin, Captain, his scan-h for Franklin.
411
Avalanclies of ice in Spitzberp'Mi. 127
Awaklok and Myonk, their imprison-
ment on an icei>erg, 329, 330
Awatscha Bay, sea-birds of, 291
— its magnificence and extent, 293
BAATY KUAN, his subjection of
Russia, 203
Bachelor river, the, 495
Back, (Mr., aftcrwanls Sir George), his
Arctic voyages, 395, 396, 399
— his search for Captain Ross. 407
— his discovery of Great Fish River.
408
— voyage in 1835, 409
Back's river, discovery of, 408
Badarany, desert of swamps, the, 261
Baer, Herr von, his scientific journey to
Novaya Zemlya, 147
Baffin, his voyages of discovery, 300
Baffin's Bay, probable influence of the
northerly winds on the depression of
the temperature of, 1 1
111; A
Baflin's Bay, walruses of the coasiM.i, |i,
— discovery of, 390
Balleny, his discoveries in the Antarctic
ocean, 480
Balleny Islands, discovery of, 48(i
Banks's Land, pi-oofs of a former niildi r
temperature in, 13
Bards, or scalds, of Iceland, 79
Barentz, William, visit (jf, to Spitzhcr-
gcn, 131
— his voyages of discovery, 383, ."iSt
— his winter in Novaya Zemlya, 38,")
— his death, 387
Barley, cultivation of, in Norway, 1 l.'l
BaiTcn grounds, barrens, or tuiiilii.
arctic belt of the, 4
— causes of their barrenness, 4
— their appearance in winter ami in
sumnur, 5
— - indistinct and irregidar boundariosoi
the, 7
— those of Newfoundland, 441
Barrow Point, traffic of, 335
Barter reef, traffic of, 335
Bear, black, or muskwa ( Vrsus umrn-
cinnis), value of the fur of the, 3.jo
— description of him. 350, 355
— brown, of North America, 3.Vt.
351
— uf Newfoundland, 442
— value of the skins of the yming brnwii
bear, 227
— grisly, of the Rocky Mountiiiiis
( I'fKUn J'lrox), 351
— his skin, 351
— the polar, his mode of hunting, 40
— his favourite food and mode of soiz-
ing it, 46, 47
- anecdote of one, 47
— instances of his Hagiicity, 47
— parental care of the she-bear. 17
— — her winter nursery, 47, ^S
her internal store of food for lier \
hybernation, 48
— immense strength of claws and tedli,
48, 49
— his unwelcome visits to Iceland, 61
— of 8pitzbergen, 129
— of Novaya Zemlya, 143
— Lapp mode of hunting the, 164-l()(j
— Esquimaux methods of hunting tli'.j
327, 328
— of Newfoundland, 442
— abundance of bears in Kamtsi'lintkn,|
295
Bear Island, or Chcrie Island, acooimtj
of, 136
— climate of, 137
— walruses of, 137, 138
— boat-voyages of Norwegian siil"i1
from, 138, 139
— dispovery of. 38 1
llei
i.f
I
ii
iNDi:x.
5-27
>tMit. I''
\nturctii-
48(1
ler m
9
il.lcr
SpitzbtT-
$83, ?>»\
ilyii, 38.-)
pwiiy, n:>
or tiuiili'i.
s, 4
oter ami i"
441
')
'J mis tinifri-
A the, l^-)''
, 305
ncrioa, !5''>"-
yovnigl'i'tiwii
r Mouutiiiii-
(unitinfi, 1'',
no>lo of sou.
y, 47
t-bear. 17
food for !>•■''
Icclaiiil. (>l
t)
the, K'l-":"
If hunting
tlK
iKamtsehat^^'l
khma, aocouiitl
UKA
l?far IslanJ, survfvod bv tlif I{ii«sian^.
214
Bt;ap, soa, value uftho Hkiu of tin-, iu
China, 313
— chase of llic. in the Pribih>w Islamls,
313
— famiiii's aii<l batlhs, 314
— sketch of the, 310
— the Austral sea-bear, 477
11. aver (Cantor Jificr), its skin tlu stan-
dard of exehango with tiie Canidiaii
Indians, 348
— former enormous trade in the fur of
the, 354
— of Newfoundland, 44'J
liraver Indians, their hunting-grounds,
3fi4
I!oe, sand- {Andrciia), of Novaya Zcm-
iya. 151
Hteeh, Antarctic (Fof/un /irtuloidrs), 4!»3
l;iN
Mireli. papi-r, value of the. in North
Anieriea, 33'J
Birds, flights of wild, in summer months
in the Tundra. 5
— their migrations to and from high
latitudes, '2C>, 27. 40
— the polar singing biifl, tl.o snow-
bunting, 27
— raptorial birds oft he Arctic regions, 28
— enonuous number,s of birds along I ho
Arctic shores, 4i)
— Icohiudic birds, 04
— of the coast of Norway, 1 13
— of Spitzbergcn. 125, 120, r_'!>
— of Novaya Zemlya, 151, 152
a liird baxaar, 152
— abundance of sca-fowl on the coast
of Kamtschatka, 21)1
— Esijuimaux ukkIo of bird catchinir,
325
Keechy, Captain, his voyage to Bfhring's ■ — abunilance of. on the coast of (irecn-
Straits, 400
Reerenberg mountain, 131)
Bihring, Titus, never passed through
the straits bearing his name, 21 1
his second voyage, 215
his second voyage of discovery,
282, 283
— his bad conduct, 284
— his death, 287
Bchring Island, Behring and Stelhron,
285
Bcliring sea, description of the. 300
— barren laiuls at. 7
— seals and walruses of, 44. 40
— its chmate. 307
— eharacter of the shores of the. 308
-animals of the, 308
Beliring's Straits, view of the Old and
New Worlds in the. 309
— I'aptain Beeehy's voyage to, 400
B'lcber, Sir Kdward, his search for
Franklin, 414
Mlinghausen. his discovery of the Is-
lands Paul the First and Alexander,
■180
ll'Uot, Lieut., his gallant search for
rranklin, 414
— his death and monument, 418
"liiga, or white doljihin {Deljihiiiir-:
I'liciis), description of the, 42
ilomain of the, 43
I i» higa Bay, visit of Von Baer's partv
to, 147
lli'iinet, Stephen, his visit to Bear Is-
land, 130
liVrrv-gatheiing in Nishne Kolymsk,
207
iBillMTries of the Arctic regions, 8
IBillings, vovage of, on the const of Si-
l>oi-i;i, 2l"i
Srv'li trees in the .Vrctic regions. 8
land, 458
— of the coasts of the Antarctic sea, 470
— of Patagonia, 507
Birkarls, their final subjugation of tiie
Lapps, 155
Biscoe, his discovery of Emlerby Land,
480
— and of Graham Land, 4 80
Black death, ravages of the, in the North,
451
Blackfeet Indians, their wars with the
Tinne and Crocs, 357. 358
Bh)ody Falls, on tiio Coppermine riv.M-,
324
Boats of the I'^squimaux, 322
— the birch-bark canoes of North Anie-
riea, 330
Bogberries of the Arctic regions, 8
r>ooth. Sir Felix, his Arctic exiiedilion.
402, 403
Bougainville, his voyage thro\igh the
Strait of Magellan, .500
Brandt, tiie Danish forester, his jour-
ney with Von ^liddendorff, 241
Brandv, fondness of the Saniojedes for,
17ti-8
— drunk at Kolymsk, 208
Brant Ysbraiitzoou, his voyiiges of dis-
covery, 383
Bread of the poor Icelanders, 02
Bredal, Eric, his eiliication of Laj^ps in
Christianity, 155
Bridges, swing, of Iceland, loo
Buchan. Captain, his Arctic voyage, 3!)2
Bunting, its migrations to and from the
north, 20
— the Lapland {CvntropkHnea Luppn-
w^("»^s•), liititudes inhabited by the,
27
Bunting, the snow, the ]iolar singing
bird. 27
m
5-28
IXUKX.
i!i:.\
CON'
Hunting, its nest and food, 27
— of Iccliiiul. ()t
— of SpitzlHTjr,.]], 129. 195
lliir^'lars, troiitnuuf of, in IJussia, 221
liiirroiifrli, Stejiiicn, his voyiipc to dis-
cover tlio noi'tli-castirii passajre, 380
IJiisa, Jclifispi. Iiis asoint of tlio rivtTH
l.ciia an<l Olcknia. 209
— liis discovery of tlie Tana, 209
— liis residence among the Jnliahii-s,
209
Halter, made from the reindeer milk.
19
Tiuttprllici in T.iinnirhmd, 218
]>yron. ("onmiodore. iiis vovajje throufjii
"tho .Strait of Mageiljin, 500
CI.Vr.OT. Ji.hn and Sohastian. tiieir
) le-discovery of jiarls of North
America. 378
— liieir re-discovery of Newfoundland,
4H
Canada, enterprise of tlie French settlers
in, 312
— results of the l']iiglish conquest of,
312
— history of the fur-trade of. 313
('aim, Sebastian el, his voyage round
the globe, 41)8
Canoes, Lirdi-bark, of Nortli America,
339, 310
Cape, Noi-th, description of the, 120. 121
Cariliou, or reiuih'cr of North America,
range of the, 19
Carrancha, tiie, of Patagonia. oO"
Ciirtier. Jacquts, his voyages, 378
Caryopliyilie, the, of tlie treeless zone, 7
Cascades of Icehiud, o9
Castor and Pollux river, discovery of,
409
Castren, ^Mattliias Alexander, account
of him and of Ids journeys, 171-186
Catlieriiie"s Foivlaml. Queen. 491
Cattle, value of, to the Icelanders, 62,03
(^ivendish, his Viiyages, 499
Chancellor, his discovery of the passage
from I-aigland to the White S<'a, 204
— his voyage to discover the iiorth-
easteni ronli' to China, 378
— his visit to .^loscow. and subseqmnt
tate, 37i»
Charles IX., l\ing of Sweden, his kiiid-
nesis to llie Lapps, l.w'i
Chatanga river, scantv population i)(
the. 240
— MiddeudoriY's journey to flie, 240
Chataiigsk, MiddeiuUu-rt's journey to,
212
Cheese mivde from reindeer milk, 19
Clierie Island, account of, 136
Chess-players of tho Tungu,9i, 279
Cliickweed, tlio, on the Mary Minium
river, 6
Cliimango, the, of Patagonia, .Vi?
China, Castren's journey overthenioim.
tains into, 18.i
Ciiiiiese take the Itussian fort (tf Alb.i-
sin, 210
— and make the treaty of Neiischiiisk
witli the Pussians, 2)0
— the treaty brt^ken i)y the Pussiaus,
who compel the Cliiiieso to give
them (he Amur. 210
Chiima {.Mtj)/ii/i.i chiiitju}, its fetid >■ -
eretion. 3.>2
Christ i.iu 1\'.. King of Denmark. Ins
treatment of tiie Lapp priests mihI
soreertTs, lo,)
— liis expedition to Greenlaml, 4.")1
Chris! ianity, inlrudiictiun of, into Ici'-
hmd. 77
Christinas Harbour, in Kergueb n's
Lanil, 474
Churches of the Icelanders, 91
Clavering. his voyage to (ireenlaini. I.i.'i
Clergy of tlie TiMpps, their poverty ;ii;d
self-denial, loO
— their sermons, l.")6
— those of Iceland all Idacksniitlis, 8'.>,
note; 93
— - their ]ioverty, 93
Coal, does not exist in Iceland, 72
— of Spitzlierijen. 130
— ill Coal r>av, 13S
Coal Pay. 13S
Cocldearia feiiestrata. the only esculiiit
]ilant ill Spiizbrrgeii, 129, 13o
Cod and cod-tishing of the const nf
Iceland, 69. 70
— the coil called stockfish. 70
— the eod-tishery of Norwav. 1 1."). 1 lH, j
118, 120
— — wretched stale of the fisliiriiicii, j
117
— exports of eod-lish to varioii-- cuiiii-
tries, 120
— cod-ti-hery of Grei'idand, 4.")S
— value of the cod-H>hery of N'l «•
foundlaiid. 4t.'»
— motle of (ishiug and curiiiir the ci'l,!
44.3, 440
— dantrei's of the fishery. 447
- imnnmso nnniliers of the lisli. 147
Coil-liver oil of Troiiis("). 118
Collinson. Captain, his seaiiu f"i
Franklin, 41.'», 417
Commodore Islands, chase of tho pci^
liiar on the. 313
Condor, the, of Patagonia. o07
Conifera'. .arctic forests, almost cniifinp
to t!ie, 8
— dirtercnce between the Kuropi;in iinl
Asiatic and Aniericiin species, S
COST
INDEX.
Port of A 11. a-
^«■."Ht pn'IIge '39, '^''''''' '^' n^rth-
t'ook. Capfain, J.is discovery of S, „♦.,
— his Antaivtic Fovaffes 47Q Aan
,T "^ J^'iipasg, no
' <W^'S''^"'- ^'^« ^«^"^- of I
C.-ueu,a... carpets Of; and M,e ...,..„
Cossacks J),,,, ,,. ^ , ' '''•''""^•■"■. 3/8
- tl'.jr privil,.pp.s and ,l„uV. in Vi 1
529
DOO
C^unWland Strait. Day;., discoven- of.
'"Ems:^:"^ ^yr^ < and
38, 39 "^-^"mulation of ice,
Coiireiirde Lois, the of V....I a
a38 ' °' *^'^'"' America,
( 'ran I terries of tJu. 1.. .»•
tVee Indians se;?V"'^'°"'''''
treetotlie'340 ^^'^'^^'l^-'-f-ireh
_ -bs.„..l,.,,5va^Sir'''"^
"--ars .,tl. the Blackteet, 307.
- their character, 3.-)8
-f'g^-i«ton.s, habits, and dress, 308.
I "'|'*'l''^'^'^snndfamihVs 3fi()
I ''f!'' "iffuams, or tents ■?-.« Q«n
-""•ir games and sports. 361
-'t;^-^- «^-es'j;\.„..,,,,
■'''••ir malicious or caprieiou.s spi,,-,
.died Jvejx)oehican, 301 ' '
;:t'H;oS^:!-,«-tspi..i....,
K!-:;.Sror;^r'';?^'-'-'^«^
.i.em. 303 ' '"''•'^^^"""J' amongst
I -s, the game of, of tneCree Indians,
K-iVIr., his copper mines at A Iten
I "''* Anfan-(ic voyarrcs 4,si
»;;^|>>;r^o, the, ofthe treeless zone 7
^^^^Mceans. immense numbers nf
|-i>ceoastofareei,laud,Tl ^^' "" ,
M M
1 D^'^JIinW;';!" T^'""^''''''. 303
rnrn m' ^^''•' ''"* "''''""t of Mount
''"-i-'pnisaiiJiTjr^"'''^^'^-'-
-j'-if toKil::';;;:^^^^^
"-•th..|!|vi^;S^';f y"'«-nceof,ho
_thet,.m,;.rature;7,^"'^''•'•^'*^'^^^
- ^^-'-u Cabofs discoy.,^ ,^
I ""Si. •:;;:::';;;; ^"' ^^ ""■• ''3- the
I Dease i*..*,... w
I j^ <-p..iiti;;;. iir''"" '"^ '''"•• ^^••'■"e
I>«'er r,.,l rA* ■''■'•'■■iiit of, 4r,H
'-a:::.^:;;;:::;/^^-- habitat
-•;^ o|_^^^\-ogel«ang and Treurenb.rg
J;:'i"^T'i:''rJ"frendofthe 36"
211 *' ^'Lnrijijr ,,, ,stra,(_ 210,
};<'|<"lation. South. 4.)6
rr;i,."!;;;'»"''™'>"»'"n".ifr,.„,h.
~ Ii'eliindic, fJ3
~" ^'26?'^ '^^ ""T-Plo of KoIyn,.k,
'^4rS^:l;i" ^'"^ -^ c,og-
-•heE.,uimS^'!S7''"«^'^^«
~"ra;r^'2V-''^"""''"---kthe
530
INDEX.
DOG
Dog, description of tho dogs and dog-
kIchIkos of the Esquimiiux, 330
— Dr. Kiiao'8 Newfoundland and Es-
((uiniaux dogs, 42G
— epidemic amongst tho Esquimaux
dogs, 435
Dolgorouky, Prince, his exile to Siberia,
22U
Dolphin, white, or beluga, of Novaya
Zemlya, 153
— Grceuland fishery of the, 457
Dolphins of the polar sens, 42, 475, 476
— the beluga, or white dolphin, 42
— the black dolphin, ' ca'ing ' whale, or
grind, 43
— the ore, or grampus, 44
— of Spitzbergon, 1 30
Drake, Sir Francis, his voyage through
the Strait of Magellan, 498, 499
Drifanda Foss, an Icelantlic cascade, 103
Drift-ice, 28
Droutheim, the red-deer near, 24
— description of, 113
Ducks, /ild, of the Arctic regions, 6
— their migrations to and from the
north, 26
— of Iceland, 64, 67
Dudinka, Gastrin's visit to, 184
Dungeness, Point, 491
Durfoorth, his voyage and death, 378, 379
D'Urvillo, Dumont, his discoveries in
the Antarctic ocean, 480
Dutch, their expeditions to discover an
arctic passage to India, 363
EAG-LE, tho sea {HaVuntus albkVIa),
of the north, 28
— his food, 28
— white-tailed sea-eagle of Iceland, 68
— value of tho skins of the, 68
— the sea-eagle of the coast of Norwav,
114
— in tho Tundra in summer, 5
Egede, Ilaus, his voyage to Greenland,
451
Egg-viire of the coast of Norway, 1 1 i
Egilson, Olaf, tho Westmann clergyman,
his slavery in Algiers, 108
Eider duck, its migrations to and from
tho north, 26
— of leoLmd, 64, 72
— brooding of, 65
— Mr. Slioph -rd's visit to one of its
head-quarters, 65
Elder, tlie, in tho Arctic regions, 8
Elephant, sea-, of the Antarctic ocean,
476, 489
Elk, or moose doer, of the forests of the
north, 22, 28
— Caesar's account of it, 23
— its food and present habitat, 23
Elk, its mode of defending itself, 2.3
Enara, Lake of, the fisher Lapps of, 1 70
— description of the, 173
Enderby Land, discovery of, 480
English pirates, ravages of, in Iceland, 80
Erebus, mount, eruption of, 482
Eric the Red, his visit to Greenland, 450
Ermine {Mustela ermined), beauty and
importance of the fur of the, 220
— those of the Hudson's Hay Territory,
352
Esk volcano, 139
Esquimaux, one watching a seal hole, 31 7
— their wide extension, 317
— their own name of Inuit, 318
— character of the regions they inhabit,
318
— their physical character, habits, aiui
manners, 318, 319
— women, 319
— their dress and snow huts, 320
— their boat, tho Kiiyak or baidar, 322
— their weapons, and fishing ami iiunt-
ing implements, 323
— enmity between them and the Red
Indians, 325
— their chase of the reindeer, and binl-
catching, 325
— their whale and seal hunts, 325, 3'2(j
— their ' keepkuttuk,' 327
— tlieir bear and walrus hunts, 327-329
— their dogs and dog-sledges. 331
— their games and sports, 332
— constitution of Ksquimauxsoi'iety,333
— their angekoks, or priests, 333
— thoir moral character, self-reliain'o,
and intelligence, 334
— their maps, and predilection for com-
mercial pursuits, 335
— their voriicity, and seasons of aliuii-
daneo and distress, 330, 337
— their depots of food. 337
— their wars with llio Kutchin Indiansl
373
— their attack of Franklin's bonts. 4i»3l
— their hunting expeditions witii D:'.
Kane's party, 431
— their ravages on tho Greenland co;istJ
451
Europe, treeless zone of, 4-8
Evil Spirit of the woods of lln' Lip'
landers, 157
Exiles, Siberian, 218, 219
— • annual number of, 221
I'^yjafialia, eruption of, in 1S21, 83
Eystein, King, his bonovolence, IKi
J^AEROE Islands, chaso of tho hhci
dolphin, or 'ca'ing' whalo in At
43
Falkland Islands, climate of, 46i)
INDEX.
Ml
10
ulaml, 80
■i
Laml, l^^o
niuty !Ui*l
Territory,
318
s, 320
. \,a-uUr. 3'22
ig iiud liunl-
and tbc R«*l
Lcur, aui-l Virtl-
,nts, 325, 326
umts, 327-329
Igus. »31
332
33'.!
luxsoi'u'ty
losts, 333
se\{-relr.iiii'0
ction for wm- ]
$3(), 3">7
i37 ,. .
titchinliv^'''"'-'
i\u-s boMs 403|
Itioiis NVltl* I'l'
,4-8
V^ of til'' l"'i"
riS21,S3
loVoucc, U6
«o of the blW
whalo in >fl«
te of. 'l'^''*
FAM
Famine, Port, rich vegetation of, 492,
493, 409
Festuca of the Arctic regions, 6
Finbfi'k whales of Spitzbor^jon, 130
iMiichcs in the Tundra in summer, .5
Finmark, trade and fisheries of the
coast of 1 20
Finnur Johnson, the Icelander, his
' Ecclesiastical History of Iceland,' 85
Fir, different species of, in Kuropo, Asia,
and America, 8
Fish, and fishing season of Iceland, 69
— abundance of fish in Kamtscliatka,
290
— of Newfoundland, 444
— of Greenland, 4r)4
Fish river, Great, Back's discovery of,
408
Fisher Lapps, account of the, 170
Fiskcrnasset, cod-fishery of, 458
Fitzroy, Captain, his surveys of Pata-
gonia and Tierra del Fuego. 500
Fjiill Lappars, or Mountain Lapps, ac-
count of the, 159
Flatoy, eider ducks of, G4
Flat fish, abundance of, on the coasts of
Iceland. 70
Floe of ice, 28
Fioki. the Viking, his visit to Iceland, 74
Flora of Spitzbergeu. 128
Flowers of the Arctic regions, 6
— of the island of .St. Lawrence, 309
— of Taimurland, 250
— of Unalaschka, 308
Fogs of the Arctic seas in summer, 36
— near the island of St. Lawnnce, 309
— off Newfoundland, 446
Food, amount of, required by man in
the Arctic regions, 13
Forest regions, Arctic, 4
— extent of the. 8
— character of the trees of the, 8
— distinctive character of the forests, 9
— characters of the Arctic fure^ts of
the Miocene ))eriod. 13. 14
— legions of gnats in the. 10
— ciiunges being efiectcd by the agency
of man, 1(»
Forests, the, the headquarters of many of
ilie Arctic faun;i. 25
— more in than uhorc the earth in
Novaya Zemlya, 150
— of Newfoundland. 440
iriTct-me-not found in Novaya Zemlya,
l.)0
llorster, Captain, his expedition to the
Aiuarctic sea, KiS
|f"^<ils, Arctic, in New Silxria. 217
I t'oulke. J*ort, Dr. Hayes's winter at, 43 1
IFi.x, the Arctic ((\tnis lai/opus), its
mode of protecting itself fixjin the
most intense cold, 25
ruE
Fox, the Arctic, its food and enemies, 25
— of Spitzbergen, 129, 153
— in Novaya Zemlya, 151
— found in Taimurland. 251
— of Newfoundland, 442
Fox, black, of Siberia, value of the fur
of the. 227
Fox, the Hnizilian (Cmu.s A^nrce), of
Patacoiiia, 506
Fox, red ( Viilprs fu/riis), the. 227, 353
— value of the fur of the, 353
Fox, the silvery. 289
Fox Islands, discovery of the, 215
France, right of the people of, to fish on
the banks of NewfouiKlland, 444
Franklin. Lieut, (afterwards Sir John),
his first Arctic voyage. 302
— his first land journey, 395
— his second land journey to the shores
of the polar sea, 399
— loss of his first wife, 400
— his last voyage, UO
— searching expeflitions sent for him,
410
— his fate and that of his companions,
418-421
Franklin i.sland, discovery of, 482
Fraser river, voyage of Mackenzie down
the, 344
Frederic II., King of Denmark, his ex-
pediti<jn to Greenland, 451
Frederick IV., King of, his foundation
of the Finmark missinn. 155
Friedrich. the .Saxon bishop, introduces
Christianity into Iceland, 77
Frifillaria Sarrana, used as food in
Kamtschatka, 294
Frobisher, Martin, his endcavotirs to
discover an Arctic passjigo to India,
380
— his subsequent career, 381
Froward, Cape, scenery of, 492
Fruits of the .Arctic re.;ions. ,S
Fuego, Tierra dc-1, climate of, 409
— origin of the name, 498
— Captain Fitzroy's survey of, 500
— account of the Fuegians. 515
— degr.adation of the Fuegians, 515,
61(1
— their powers as mimics, 517
— their notions of trade. 518
— causes of their low state of civiliza-
tion, 518
— their food, 519
— their dress, huts, arms, and orna-
ments. 519, 520
— their cannibalism, 521
— their language, 521
— Captain Fitzroy's three Fuegians,
521, 522
— missionary labours, 523
— Captain Gardiner, 523
M M 2
flS2
INDEX.
FUB
FhpI, kinds of, used in Icolnnd, 72
I'ulnmr, dif*ttinpp north at which it hfts
hocn seen, 19
Fur, account of tlio HiisHJan Fur Com-
pany, and its opiratioiis, UK), 311
— acfount of tin- fur Iradf of tht; Ilud-
sou'h Bay Company, 338 >t srq.
— trade in, at the fairof Olxlorwii, '201,
202
— of Siberia, 223, 224
— importance of tho trade in, 229
— of tlio Tchuktclii, 300
GABRIEL CHANNEL, williwaws of,
479
Gadflirs which attack tho reindeer, 22
Galietis vittata, the, of I'ata^oiiia, 305
Gambling of the Cree Indians, 361
Gardar, tho northern pirate, his tho
first eiri'umnavigat ion of Iceland, 74
Gardar's iiolni, or Gadar's Island, Ice-
land so eaUcd, 74
Gardiner. Captain, his mission toFuegia
and melancholy end, o'J3
Gawrilow, produce of the gold mine of,
237
Geese, wild, of tho Arctic regions, 5
Geese, snow, its migrations to ami from
tho north, 26
Geeso of Iceland, 64
George, St., climate of the island of, 308
— sea-lions and guillemots of, 309
Georgia, South, discovery of, 469
Germany, the oik or moose-deer of, in
the time of Ca-sar, 23
Geyser, the great, description of the, 54
Gheritz, Dirck, his discovery of the Now
Shetland Islands, 467
Gilbert, Sir Ilumplirey, takes possession
of Newfoundland, 444
Ginkloti, or children's disease, in the
Westinann Islands, 107
Gissnr, his work on his voy.iges to tho
East, 79
— the Icelander, his learning and
travels, 85
Gjas, or chasms, in Iceland, 57
Glacier, Humboldt, 423-427
— the great glacier in the Uulf of Penas,
470
— dimensions of tho enormous glaciers
of the polar regions, 32
— those of Magdalena Bay, 126
ice cliffs and avalanches of the,
127
— of the Beerenberg mountain, 139
Glottoff, Stephen, his discovery of Kad-
iak, 215
Gloves, reindeer, of Trjrnea, 21
Glntton, or wolverine, strength and
fierceness of the, 21
Glutton, its attack of the reindeer, 2 1 , 22
— its voracity. 22
— the northern, or wolverine, 170
— found in Taimurland, 251
— those of North America, 351
— value and uses of the fur of the, 351
Gnats, legions of, in the forests and
swamps, 10
Goda-foss, tho, an Icelandic cascade, 5i)
Gold diggings of Eastern Siberia, '?.T.\
— i'i>scription of the gold fields, 230
Gomez, his voyages of discover}-, 378
Goose, Ixan (Anserseyttum), of Novaya
Zemlya, 153
Goose, Brent, its migrations to and
from the north, 20, 108
— its rapid flight, 27
Goose, snow, 401
Graliah, (Japtaiu, his exiiloralions of tlio
coast of Greenland, 455
Graham Land, discovery of, 480
Grampus, or ore {Ihlphiniis orca), dc-
scription of the. 44, 49
— his ferocity and mode of ploughing
the seas, 44
— off Novaya Zemlya, 153
— of the Antarctic ocean, 475
— conflict of one with a whale, 475
Grasses, tufted, of the Arctic regions, G
— of the treeless zone, 7
— paramount importance of the grasses
in Iceland, 62
— of Taimurland, 250,
Greenland, vast ice-fields of, 10
— proofs of a former milder climate in,
13
— enormous dimensions of the glaciers
of, 32
— the Greenland whale, 41
— transparency of the water on the
coast of, 41
— abundance of animal life in the seas
of, 41
— walruses of the coasts of the north
of, 46
— Kane's sledge journey along tho
coast of, 426
— portraits of natives of, 449
— unknown extent of, 449
— ancient Scandinavian colonists of, t'iO
— the name of Greenland given to it,
450
— introduction of Christianity, 4^'0
— decline and fall of the country, 4dl
— subsequent explorations of, 451
— Hans Egede, the pastor, his voyage j
to Greenland, 452
— foundation of Godthanb, 453
— arrival of Herrenhuth missionarii's,j
453
— explorations of the coast, 454
— present Danish settlements, 45o
INDEX.
53S
T,2l,22
170
the, ^'^\
•L'Sls anil
isciulc. -yi
•?:i'.\
Is, 'I'M)
,ry, :»7»
ut NiAMva
.19 to iUul
tions of lli<i
480
s orcd), i\''-
,f plougliing
17'>
hulc, 47.)
tic rt'gi"'"*'' "
of the grasses
)f, 10
[or climatr in.
If thp glaciers
ft-ater on tl\o
Ife in the seas
of the iwrtli
y along the
I449
llonistsof.^'W'
ll given to it,
Uity,t^'\
L'ountry, -tJ^
Is of, 4ol
ur, his voyage 1
I iiiissiona"^*'!
bt, 4o4__
Ipnts, 4oo
ORE
Oroonlanfl, soiuity population of, 4.56
— njoilo of lilV of the pioplo of, loG,
457, 460
— fisheries of, 458
— piiiirness of tlie land, 459
— qimntifies of drift-wood at, 460
— minerals of, 460
— Christianity ainimgst them, 460
— climate, mountains, and fjords of,
460, 461
— ice-eaves of the coast, 461
Greenlanders, their discovery of, and
colonies in, America, 377
— destnu'tion of tlieir colonies, 377
Greiffenfeld, his imprisonment in Munk-
holm, 113
Grinds, Srr Dolphins, black
Grinnel Land, vegetation of, 6
— Dr. Hayes's discoveries in. 434-437
tiuanaco, the, of Patagonia. oOo, ,')14
Guano, circumstances which favour the
deposit of. 604. .OO/J
Guillemot, the black, 274
— on the I'ribilow Islands, 309
Gulf-stream, influence of, on the south
and west coasts of Iceland, 60
— and on the climjite of Norway, 1 10
Gull, Ross's, distance north at which it
has been seen, 49
Gull, ivory, in Taimurlnnd, 261
Gustavus I., Kin!» of Sweden, his kind
treatment of the Lapps, 166
Gustavus Adolphus, his foundation of a
school for tho Ltipps, 156
HADDOCKS, abundance of, on the
coasts of Iceland, 70
Hakon, King of Norway, his annexation
of Iceland, 80
Hall, James, his vov.igc to Greenland,
461
Uamnierfest, description of tlie town
of, 119
-traffic of, 119. TiO
— the people of, 120
— cargoes of walruses and seals brought
from Spitzbergen, 136
Hare, tho fur of tho, of Siberia, 228
Hare, ice {/jcpus f//aci(i/iit), 305, 363
— found in Taimurland, 251
Hare Indians, hunting grounds of the,
364
— their women, 366
Harold Haarfager, or the Fair-haired,
his establishment of an absolute mon-
archy in Norway, 76
— exodus caused by his tyrar.ny, 76
Harp-seal of the polar seas, 44
Hatlierton, Cape, discovery of, 424
Haven, Lieut. De, his search for Frank-
lin. 411, 412
II I'D
Hawks in the Tumlia, in sunmer, 5
Hayes, Dr., his sle(ly:c journey over
Kennedy Channel, 428
— his .\rctie voyage in 1860, ■134-437
— his opinion as to wiiat may be done
in the Arctic regicjiis, 437
Hecia, eruptions of, since tho coloniza-
tion of Icohind, 81, 83
' Ilcda ' and 'Fury' Straits, discovery
of, 398
Ileemskerk, his vovages of discovorv,
38 1
Heiiicsiin, ^logens, the ' sea-cock.' his
voya;:e towards (ireeiiland. 161
He|)l)urn, .lohu, tlie sailor, his overland
journey, 396
Herald Island, disc(Aery of, 416
Herdu-breid, view of, 73
Heimaey, or Home Ishtnd, description
of, 1U6
Herring, the fisiiery of the coast of
Norway, 116
— food for the ron]ual,or fin-whales, 42
— abundance of the, on tho coast.s of
Icelainl, 70
Hespiris, the, on klie Mary Minturn
river, 6
Hddriiigen, agriculture of, 113
Hobson. Lieut., his search for Franklin,
419, 421
Holme, tlie, of Norway, 113
Hood, Robert, his Arctic journey, 395
— murdered, 396
Horn, Cajie, discovery of the passage
round, 499
Horse, the, in Iceland, 62, 63
— of the .lakuts, 261, 266, 267
Hudson, Ilenrv, visi.' of. to Spitzbergen,
131 '
— his the first attempt to sail across
the Nortl) Pole, 388
— his subseipient voyages and dis-
coveries, 388
— his melancholy end, 389, 390
Hudson's Kay, barren lands of, 7
— characters of tlie conifera; of, 8
— walruses of the coasts of, 46
— discovery of, 3.S9
Hudson's Bay Conijiaiiv, account of the
fur tr.idoof the, 338
— tlie c)ld courciir des bois and tho
modem voyngeur, 338, 339
— history of the Company, 342
— formation of a rival Conipany, and
subsequent amalgamation of tho
two, 344-346
— palmy days of the CompHny, 346
— its reconstruction in 1863, 346
— its trading posts, and their manage-
ment, 347
— its eflbrts to civilize tho native tribes,
348
534
INDEX.
HUD
Hudson's Bay Company, the standard of
exchange, tho beaver-skin, 348
— extent of the fur trade, 349
— aciount of tlie fur-l>earing animals
of the Territory, ;J4U
Hudson river, discovery of tlie, 388
Hudsou'8 Straits, Sebastian Cabot's
discovery of, 378
Humboldt Glacier, the Great, 32, 423
— Kano's descrii>ti(>ii of tlm, 127
Humming-bird on tlio peninsula of
Aljaska, 1507
— in Newfoundland, 442
— of Patagonia, AdS
Huts cf the Ksijuiinanx, 322
— of tiio Icelanders, HI
— Uver-fjall, view of, 103
Hvalii, island of, 120
Hvita lake, in Iceland, fid
Hvita river, in Iceland, oiJ
Ice, vast tii'Ms of, in tiio jilatciius of
Spitzbergcn, Greenlainl, and Novaya
Zemlya, 10
— floating masses of, in the poliir seas,
29, 30
— enormous extent of tlie j)i)hir gla-
ciei's, 32
— causes whieh jirevcnt tiio accumula-
tion of polar ice, 37, 38
— ice a bad conductor of heat, 39
— ice-fields of Iicland, 51
— glaciers, ice-diils, and avalanches of
Spitzbergen, 127
— impediments otfered liy the lium-
mocks to travellers on tlic polar
sea, 270
— icebergs on the banks of Newfound-
land, 439
— iceltergs of the Antnrctic sea, 407,468
— ice-caves of Greenland, Ifil
— the great ice-baiu-ier of the Antiirctic
ocean, 483
— pack-ice of the Antarctic Ocean, 485
Icebergs, 30
— forms and size of, 31, 32
— origin of, 31
— localities in which most of tlie ice-
bergs of the North Atlantic are
formed, 31
— Dr. Hayes's description of icebergs
in a midnight sun, 33
— how distinguished at uiglit and in
fogs, 34
— dangers of collisions with, 34
— protection to ships affonled by, 34
— dangers of anchoring to, 34, 35
— ' calving ' of icebergs, 35
— crumbling of icebergs, 35
Ice-blink, description of the plienomenon
of, 35
— its advantages to the Arctic navi-
gator, 35, 36
ICE
Ice-fields, 30
— hummocks on, 30
— collision of ice-fields, 31
— dangers caused by, to sliips, 31
Ice-grotto of Surts-liellir, 59
Iceland, volcanic origin of, 50
— the country in winter and in summer,
51 & GI
— sterile portion^^ of the island, 61
— its immense ice-fields. 51
— its lava streams, 51, 58
— the burning mountains of Krisnvick. 52
— the mud cauldrons and hot springs, M
the great Cieyser, 54
tlie Sfrnkkr, o.'i
crystal pools, 50
— the Almannagja, 5fi, 57
— theSiirts-hellir, orcavi snf Surtiir. 'iS
— rivers and cascades of, 59
— lakes, or vatns, 00
— iiilluenee of the ocean currents on tlm
I'limate, ()0
— mean annual temperature, Gl
— absence <)( trees in, (il
— vegetaticm and condition of agric\il-
ture. G2
— indigenous land (juadriipeds, G2
— cattle of the Icelandtrs, G2
- — beveriigcs, G2
— mode of shearing slii'ep, 03
— characteristics and number of hors<'s,
63
— the reindeer, 04
— the polar bear, 01
— the eider duck. 04, 72
— the giant-ank, 08, 09
— Icelandic fish and fishing scas'iii
C9-71
— hospitality of tlie people, 70
• — minerals of the country, 71, 72
— fuel used by the Icelanders, 72
— history of Iceland, 73
Naddodr's discovery <jf the L'l;
Land, 73
— wliieh he named .Snowland, "I
— — circumnavigated 1)V the jiiiiite
(iadar, and called by him
(iadar's holm, 74
visited by the viking Floki, ami
called by him Iceland, 74
foundiifion of Keykjavik by I:i-
golfr and Leif, 75
— • — exodus from Norway to Iceland. IC)
intro<luction of the Norwegian
language and customs, 70
code of laws of UtHiot the AVisc. ?>
the ancient Althing iitThingvallit,
70, 77 _
introduction of Christianity into
the island, 77
the golden age of Icelandic litera-
ture, 79
INDEX.
235
junimcr,
1.61
Surtur. 'i**
■ents on tlio
. Gl
(if agricul-
jt'ds, 62
62
GH
ling soiis'
n
71.-2
liTs, 72
• of tho
I.'e
j^nowliUi
k- till- 1
ed iiy
1,71
irivte
liiiii
L Vloki, and
|uu\, 7-t
,;ivik I'v 111-
ItoIcfbiiJ''"'
Norwogiaa
btns, I
G
ItthcAVi^o.j"
ItTliing^"-*""'
libtuinity in'"
?landie Ut'W
I0«
Iceland, liistory of, uiinrxntion of the
island to Norway, K(t
ith subsequent niinforHinos, 80,81
— volcanic crujitionH, 81
— miHerv eaused by the curse of mono-
poly, 8S
■ — hope for th(t future of the islanders, 84
— account of the Icolaudors of the
present day, 8.")
Skalkott, the former capital of
the island, 85
the present capital, Reykiavik, 87
and Ntate of trade in lcelan<i, 88
— — — the merchant and the peasant,
88, 8y
temperate habits of the people, 89
condition of a^'riculture, 'JO
— — a liarvest home, !)1
winter life, 'Jl, S)G
— — huts of the Icelanders, 91
— — churches, 92
cler^'ymen all blacksmiths, 89,
nutf ; 93
their poverty, 9;j-9.')
■ tho Iceland poet, Jon Thorlakson,
94
— — education of the clergy and
children, 95, 9G
industry and thirst for knowledge
of the i)eople, 90
— — their langiiage, 97
the library of Hiykjavik, 97
— the Icelandic J>iteriiry Society, 98
— Icelandic newspapers, 98
— healtli of the people, 98
— difficult its and expense of travelling,
99-101
Iceland moss, oaten and exported by tho
Icelanders, 62
— food for the deer of Spitzbergen, 129
— ill the treeless zone, 7
Llols of the Samojedes, 188
L'lonlik, island of, 398
Iliirliuk, the Esquimaux, her intelli-
(.'ince and passion for music, 398
Indians lied, their enmity with the
Ksipimaux, 325
— tliiir decimation by smallpox and
drunkenness, 325
l-cflbrts of the Hudson's liay Com-
pany to civilize thom, 348
l^tlie Beaver-skin, their standard of
exchange with the Company, 348
llaslifiold. Captain, his search for
I'ranklin, 414
•his discoveries, 424
Riijfr, tho Norwegian yarl, his visit to
lieUind, and foundation of Reykjavik,
io
SMcts of Taimurland, 251
■sh colonists on the Westmann Island,
104
JAK
Irkutsk, extreme cold of, 223
— \VningeirM visit to, 260
— summer tlowers of, 260
Iron-niines near Drontheim, 113
Isabella, Cajie, cliscovery of, 424
Ishemsk, Castren's visit to, 18((
— the Isprawnik of, and his wife, 180,
183
Islanils within the Arctic circle, barren
grounds of the, 4
Isleif, the oldest chronicler of the north,
85
Issakovv. of Kern, roimds the nortli-
easlirn extremity of Novava /enilva,
145
Itiilmi'iies, cruelty of their conquerors,
the Kus>^ians, 21 1
Ivan J. Wasiljewilseh. lirst C/.ar of
Russia, his defeat of the Tartars, 203,
204
— s)d)(lues the Cireat Novgorod, 20 1
— becomes head of the (ireek orthodox
Church and the first Czar, 204
— Ch.'iiu'ellor'b visit to him at Moscow,
379
Ivan 11. Wasiljewitsch, his conquest of
Kasan, 204
— his surname of tlie Terrible, 204
Ivorv, fossil, in the islands of New
Siberia, 215, 216
Iwalo river, in Lajiland, Gastrin's jour-
ney on the, 172
J AKOWLEW family, 238
— their enormous wealth in gold
mines, 238, 239
Jakuts, the, confirmed by the Czar in
their jwssessionH, 212
— their snares and traps, 229
— their energy and cunning, 252, 253
— their langiiatre, origin, character, and
jiei'soii.il .ippiaraiu'e, 253
— their summer and winter huts, 254
— their horses, 254
— their powers of endurance and sharp-
ness of vision. 255
— their manut'aetiires and articles of
dress, 256
— their gluttony, 256
— the universal carriers to tho cast of
the L?na, 257
— their superstitions, 257
— their offerings of hoi-sehair to tho
Spirit of the mountains, 258
— their songs, 258
— wretcht'd condition of the river Ja-
kuts, 258
Jakutsk, mean temperature of, in sum-
mer and winter, 1 1
— extreme cold of, 223
— gloomy appearance of the town, 260
r
6K
INDEX.
JAR
JakiUflc, tra<ln of, 260
Jan ]M('V«'i), ilosciiption of, 1.10
Jolly, nia<lc iVom flic lioriiH hihI clawsof
fill' rtindfCT, 21
JfUy-fiKli {Vhiirohrachut pilriix) in tlio
HIM f)f Kiirn, 147
Jcni.sci river, Cusfn'n'H journoy to the,
IH.'l
JoniHi'isk, Cii«fn'irB visit to, 185
- — the oslrotr of, fiinii<l«'(), 2»ii
Jerfiilfon {hilm (fi/r/a/ro), Iih IkwI-
qujirftrs in Iitland, (iS
— former triidc in llic. (i8
Jilili(>ani1>a*'i-tjt', or Niiin, tb{> Mnprt'nio
Kciiifi of lilt- .<iiiin)ji'ili's, ISS
' Jolm, Gentleiimii,' the Kiigli^h pirutc,
IDK
John's, .St., capitjil of New-fouiiilliind, 41.3
Jokulls, or ii'e-niountaiiis of icclainl, ."»(l
Jukiilsa i A.xarfirdi river, in leclaiul, ;VJ
JcikulHii river, in Iceland, o!)
Jones" .Sound, discovery of the ontriince
to, nyo
Jukahire.i, chief resource of those of the
Aniiij, 2G6
-— Jelissoi Hiisa'.s residence among the,
20U
KAUIAK, Island of, di.scovery of the,
21.')
Kaiak, island of, landing of .SteUa on
the, 28.3
' Kalcw.ila,' Casfreu's Swedish transla-
tion (tf the, 174
Kanit.schafka, siilytigation of. hy the
Kussians, 211
. — cruelty of the contmerors, 211
— iSteller's scientific journey to, 2S2
— its climate and fertility, '2!)(»
— abundance of fish in the rivers, 291
— bird-('alclier.'» of, 2'Jl
— population, 292
— niountiiin chain and volcanoes, 292
— climate and mineral spriiifrs, 293
• — harbours and population, 293
— healthiness of the people, 204
— their food, 294
— their animals, 295
— diameter of the peopK», 296, 297
Kane, Dr.. hi.s Arctic voyages, 423
— his account of his first winter in
Rensselaer Bay, 424
— his description of the ])olar nitrlit, 425
— his sledge journev along the coast
of Greenland, 426
I— his illness on the vovago and recovery,
427, 428
~-~ resolves to winter a second time in
Rensselaer I5ay, 430
w- departure Jind return of part of his
crew, 430, 431
KRA
sufferings of his ^larty,
Kane, Pr
l.!2
— abandonment of his ship, and bout-
journey to rpernavik, 433
— li is return to New York, iiud death,
431
Kara (Sate, readied by .Stephen Bur-
rough, 380
Kara, .S.a of, 140
— expeditions to the, 141
Ka-aii, HiiNsian coiKjuest of, 20|
Kellet, Captain, his seurdi for Franklin,
4 IT)
Kcmlall, I, it-lit., iiis voyagt- to fln-
Copi)erniiiio river, 400
— hisjiccount of Deceptitm Island. KiX
Kcnn.tly, Williain, his search fur
I'ranklin, 413
— - his sl(ila:i- jnurii'.y with Ilellot, tit
Kennedy Channel, l>r. ll.-vyen's sledge
joiiriiiy acni>s. 128
— his vt)yage acri»ss, 435, 436
Kt-rgut leii's l.;tiid, cliinate of 4()9
-- view of Christmas Harbour in, 174
Klii|iSMck, destruction of the eiiiiiii-i- i)t'
the Khans t.f, 204
King, ('apiain, his survey of the Magel-
lan Stniits. 5(10
King Willi.un's Island, etiast tif, tracel
by Mr. Thomas Sim|isoii, IKt
Klofa jtikull, extent of the, 51
Knight, .loliii, his melancholy aivii'
voyage, 387
— murtlered by the Esquimaux, 38H
Koidewt-v, (.'aptain, his ji>urnoy towanls
the Ntirth Pole, 438
Kohva, Castrcn's visit to, 180
Kolyma river, inundations of the, 2t)(i
Kolyinsk, Nishnei, foundation of tli-'
town of, 210
— WriiiigcU's visit to, 261
— situation and climate t>f, 261
— vegetable iiiiil animal life, 2()3
— pipulation of the district, 261
— dwellings of the Russian rc.'-itl«'iii>,
264
— moilt^ of life of the natives, 2G'>
— their dogs. 265
— berry -gathering in the district. JC
— famiiit- of the jieople, 267
— Social parties at Kt)lymsk, 267. '-'''
Koriaks, the, confirmed by the Czar i
their possessions, 212
Kortjiinoje Filippowsoje, Von MiiMi"
dorlTs journey to, 2 12
Kostin .Schar, visit of Von Baer to. HI
— storm ill, 148
Kiitlugja, eruptions of, since the filii
jiization of Iceland, 81, 83
Krasnojarsk, Castri^n's visit to, 182. 1
— extravagance of the gold aristocnn
of, 238
-t'K'i'jallJ
] 59
"~ - their (
~— their r
--- their
ments,
"— tlieir si
■ — natural
1G3
— tlieir lo
INDEX.
537
s -jiiirty,
,uil tU'iitli.
ihon B>ir-
r Kriinklin,
J,,, to 111''
U\iw\. >'■•'<
Hfurcli f'lr
ivi'rt's sU'ilge
.t3«
of, »('>'.»
I.mu' !"• '"* ,
,Ue eiui'ivi' "t
oftheMagt'!-
,iiHt of, triU'e'i
.n, nit
i,u-h..ly uKU.'
iniiinx. '■<><'*
mriioy lowaras
180
Is of the, -it'-'i
ilition "f ^^'''
l<\
lof. 2(U
Irav, -iti''^
piiin n'i-ul''i"-'l
tivos,
20.')
le (listri^'t. 'l''']
l-msk. '207-"
ll.ytlu' t'-wr'"
Von Ml.U'H
|,n Baer to, Ul
tiTioe the cnl>
83
tsitto.lS'i.l'
Void ari-stocra;
KKR
Kronitzin. Iuh (liHovory of the pcnin-
ftiilii of Aljiiska, ',21.)
Kr»'(*tio\vos(lwif<|i(in>k, |>roiluce of llio
^olil tiiiiic (if, 2'Mi
Krisiivik, lniriiiiiK iiiomitiiitifl of, 52
Ki-oiow, Kiciiiiimiit, lns\ off Noviiya
/t'liilyn, 141
Kutcliiii ImliaiiH, portniifs of, 370
— tlifir ilw»'lliii>r-pliii't'. ."syo
— tlnir i><'I's()iih1 ii|H)i'nruiic<' and dross,
:{7<>. ;J7i
■ — tlii'ir inoiliuin of cxcliiinKf. 371
— tliiir woiiicii siinl I'liililnii, 372
— tlit'ir iimu.sciiitMils, 373
— tinir wars witli th«; l',:<(jiiiiniinx. 373
— tlu'ir HUsjiicioiiM uiul tiiiioroiih lives,
374
— tlifir iiiudo of |M)iiiuliiig till! nioost^
(Ictr, 37 I
— tlicir frt'()ii('nt distress, 375
— tlifir lints, 375
Kiitfliutii Klinn, his conquest of Silio-
ria, 2(1.')
— dotWtt'd liv Yfrniidc tiic rohbt-r, ut
Tobolsk, ';i(i.")-2(>7
— iiis rt'Vfiige, 208
LAHHADOH. harrcn lands of, 7
- efVfft. of tlif icy sfas and cold
currents on tlie cliinalt" of, 7
— di.si'overiil and colonizod l)y Grecn-
laiidrrs, 377
I.iiclxiw Jslaiuls, disfoverv of the, '_'!.")
Li^artliot river, in Iceland. .">!>
Lakfs, or vatns, of luflainl. 60
— of Nfwfouiiiiland, 44'J
Livmbfrt, M. (Justave, his opinion as to
the i-oute to the I'olc, 43«
Lmcaster .Sonnd, di'covery of the en-
trance to, 390
Lapps, reinch'er travelling of the, 17
— niovinir, l.')4
their history and conversion toC'lu'is-
tianity, 154. 155
1 — poverty and .self-deuiul of their clergy,
1 56
I— tlieir ancient gods and present super-
stitions, 156, 157
I Hvil ."Spirit of the woods, 157
I sorcery ami witchcraft, 157
I '-their personal appearance, 157
1- tlie l'')allLappars. or Mountain liapps,
159
I- their dwellings, 159
I' their reintl(«r pens, 160
■ - their snnuner and winter onranip-
nients. 161, 162
I-— their sledges and skates, 162
I natural beauties of their country,
163
|~ — their lovo of home, 163, 164
Lajips, the Fjall I^ippars, their nnxlo of
huntiimthelMarand the wolf. 161-166
the ueallliy Lapps, and their
nnxle of li\iiig, liiii. I(i7
— - their annual visits to the fairs, 167
— - tlieir druiiketirifss, lti7-16!t
their worship of Muniinon, trea-
sure hoanlinu, 16N
their ♦onilness for brandy and
tobacco, 16,S-170
their arteetionale di'-positioii, 16!)
— the Skogslap|iars, or l''orf.st l^apps,
169
— the l'"ishfr Lapps, 170
Laptew, Lifiit. Cluritoii, his explora-
tifHiH of the coasts of Taiinurlind, 213
— lii> fX|iloratious lo the fa.st of tho
Lena. ■_'] I
Larch, the, of .Siberia, 8
— of the IliuUon's Hay Territory. 8
Lawi-ence, ,st., climate and vegetation of
the island of, 309
Lava streams of Jffland, 51, 58
— sireains ot', thrown out by the great
erupt ion of. Skajitar .Kikul, 81-K3
Laxaa, or J^alnioii river, aljuminnce of
tisli caught in the, 71
Leif, the Nor^vegian jarl, his visit to
Iceland, 75
— murdered by his Irish slaves, 75
Lemming, its habitat and foo<l, '25
— exairgerations of Olaus Magnus and
I'oiitoppidan respi'cling the, '2-'t
— its enemies, and accidents to which
it is liable, 26
— found in Taimurland, 251
— of New Siberia, 1 1
— of Novaya Zemlya, 151
Li'ua river, ascende<I by the Cossacks,
209
— importance of the, 3
— barren irrounds near the, 7
— Wrangf Us journey down the. 260
Leprosy, or ' liktiira." of Icfland, 9S
Liciuns. grey, of the ' barren grounds,' 4
— food for the rt'indecr, 1 I
— the Lichen rinif/ifiriiiiiif, the food of
the reindeer. 19
— of Novaya /emlya. 149
— of the I'ribilow Islands, 309
Liddon, Lieut. M., his Arctic vovages,
393
Lindenow, Gotl.ske, liis voyage toGreen-
land, 451
Lion, sea- ( Otaria Ste/icri), value of tlie
skin of the, 316
— the sea-lion of the Antarctic ocean,
477
Lister, Cape, discovery of, 454
Lithuania, the elk of, 23
Loaisa, Garcia do, his voyage round the
globe, 498
INDEX.
LOf
Lufoton InlnndH, tli(<, 11')
— view of \'aatr<T Hnlli'ii in tin', 109
— cod-flhliiry III' till', 1 l.V- 1 17
JiiMiiiiin^ olijcctM ill the Ari'tic rccioiiH, 37
LoM'likiii, liic walrim-liiiiitiT, liin V(>_viiy;c
on till! ooiimI of Noviiyii Zcnilyn, 1 1 1
LostiidiuN, till' Ijjip|) pricHt, Imh vi'if-
(iiiiial ami |ii>\rrly, IM
Itoucliriix. Sir Kiiti'liin Jiuliiiiis
I.olli^-l'llilill|>l■ 'i'liTc, ilincovory of, 480
I.oviiiiiii'ii, jiiittiiis of. 111
Lowttimrii, liisvoyajii' to (Sifriiluiiil, ■l'i4
Liilk"', Adiniral, iiis i'IhIi iivourH to
pi'iiitnilc along liio touHt of Novavii
/.■nilya, 111
liycliiii.i, purple, of (iif Arctic rcL'ioiis,
Lynx. Caiiaila, or piMliii (l.i/ti.v (m/ki-
(Irii.si.s), ;i;i;t, ;u;!»
— value of the tnrof llie, 228,3.53
Lyon, I'aptain. liis iinsncceNsful voyajie,
3'JH
M
ACKKXZIK, AlcxMinler, liis voy-
ajiesof (lisiMAci'V in North America,
314
Mackenzie river, iniportanci' of the, 3
— foref*lH anil liarreii lamls n<ar tlio, 7
— iniliiiiiCL' of the siulherly winds on
the lcin])crature of the vallcv of tlie,
11
— discovery of the. 341
Macsnikow Nikila, his piid fields in
Eastern Siberia, 231. 23(1, 237
Mngdaleiia |{ay, view of, 122
— dcscrijition of, 12;')
Mapllaii, Strait of, 4'JO
— description of the, I'.H)
— entrances to, I'JK, 4Stl
— opening into the i'acilic, 4!l'")
— discovery of the Strait by ^lagelliin,
4i»7
— Sir .1. Narborongh's chart, /iOO
— Captains Jvingand Fitzroy's surveys,
oOO
Magerii, island of, 120
Magicians of the .Saniojedos, 189-191
Malewinsk}', Lieutenant, his gold inino
of Olginsk. 23G
MalslWim, the, 1 15
Mammoth, fossil remains of tho, in New
Siberia, 21 G
Man, his difficulty in establishing a
footing in tho Arctic regions, 4
— how he is able to stand the rigours
of an Ari'tic winter, 12. 13
Maps of the Ksqnimau.x. 33.')
Mariinsk. station of, built by tho Kus-
sians, 210
— gold mine of. 230
Marshes of Newfoundland, 441
Marten Pine {Maries a/netum), the, 352
MOR
.Marten F'ine, rulueof the fur of llu',3.)2
Mary .Minium river, llowirs of,
.Maliiischkin, his sledge journey over
the |Hilar sea, 272
]\IaloMi'hkin .Scluir, visits to, 1 111 17
iMatlhew, St., island of, inliospitublo
character of the, 309
Matthew's Straits, visited by HoxniVM-
slow, I'achtuHMow, and llerr von jl.ier,
111-147
McClintock, Lieut, (iiuw Sir Loojxiidi,
his search for I''ranklin, 415
— his voyage in the ' l-'ox,' 119
— and ili-covery of tho fate of l-'ranklin
and his companions, -120, 421
McClure, (,'afitaiii, his search fur I'rank-
lin. 41.')-4I7
— his di^c'ivery of the north-west pas-
sage, 1 1 ■")
Mechain, Jiicut., his search for Franklin,
4 1 .'i
Mediterranean, dried coil-llsh sent to
the. 120
Medusii". enormous numbers of, in ih.'
polar world, 4 1
— in the seas oil' iSipitzbergen, I 2.j
Melville I5ay, eiiorinous glaciers of, 32
Melville Island, di>-c()vcry of, ,')'.)3
Meiilschikort'. I'rince, liis exile ami
death in Siberia, _'19
— his son restored to the honours of
his Inaise, 220
Mercy i>ay, discovery of, 417
Mercy, Inirbour of, 49()
Merganser, reil-breasted, 44S
Middeiidorff, \'i)n, his adventures in
Taimurland, 240
— his visit to the Chatang.a river, 21J
— his jiiurney down the 1'aimur riv. r
to tho jiolar sea, 242-24.J
— his return journey and illness, 24 j-
247
— gratitude of the Sainnjodes, 247
— his observations on the climate iiinl
natural productions of 'J'aiiiitirliuiii,
248
Midnight, silence of, in Spitzlicrjjeii,
120
Milk of the reindeer. 19
Jlinerals of L'eland, 71
Aliuk (J'isiiH Amcrlcmius), the, 363
— value of the fur of the, 352
Minto, Mount. 479
Misery, Mount, 1 38
Mollusca, small, of tho polar .seas. 41
Moonlight nights iu tho Arctic rf^'ioii?,!
U)
Morse. See Walrus.
Morton, one of Dr. Kane's crew, his
illness, 428
— his discovery of Washington Lam!,!
429
INDEX.
5.19
MOg
NOV
ie.3.V2
y ov.r
»17
{(ivniV"t-
m r>.ii r,
I -J I
,r i'viiiik-
iMMllklill,
U siui to
uf, ill 'li''
... r.'"'
i.xili; anil
honours of
IS
[ventures i"
I v.v.r, 'iri
"ainiur riviT
lll.n ^S 'il-J-
I..S. '2-17
li.liniiit.' lUi'l
I'l'a'unurliiuil
IsinUljCgcn,
lth(>, 363
iMonq\iito<<««)f NiHlint' Kolynisk, 2.V 202 ' NrwfnuniIIaii(1, ri^il.t nf tht>Frrnch nnd
MiiMMH, (iinjry. "t'tlif "Ijurrru nmui.tU,' -l
of Noviivii Ziiiilvii, HO
<)t'tli.« I'riMlow UliHi.U, ;i(i8, ;j(ll)
M>i)irawi)'tf, Count Nicl.oluM, hiHiinuexii-
tion of till' Aniui", '210
Mniisc, llclil. of Spit/liirjfrn, 121)
Mnclniiiior, tlic tunjfiis, u.xrd us food by
tli(t Kl.lllt^|^)llttka.l■', 2IH
Mutl sprinuH, lidilin;.', df IctIuiii!, i'}'\
Miinii'ii, Mi.rHhi.l, liis (■.xilc tu Silnria,
•J 20
Lis rptt.rn mid sulisoqiiciif life, 'i'iO
.Miuik, .It i.s, Ills vovii^^cs. ;t'J(l
.MMi.kl.iiIni, castle ol', I \',i
.Miicdi'rirs, trcatiMi'iit uf, in Hussia, 221
Musi'ovy ( 'iiiiipaiiy, its t-iidc uvdui'M to
iliscovora norlli-fast passa^'r to India,
;IH(I
Mi.sk-ox {(h'ifiiis vi(i.''cfiii/i'i<), descrip-
tion of the, 21
its former ami pivsent liala'tut. 21
MiiMin.isli, musk rat, or umlatni (^/'VAu*
;ili' '/licii.i), '\oi
I— villages. ,i')\
1— modes of ealeliiii^ tlie animal, .'ioT)
I — value of the fur of the, 3.').i
- the. ;i'.l()
Mu^s-'N (Jii tlie eiiast of (li'eriiland, 11
JMy Lake, in Iceland, (iO
Mvvatn, dueks of tiie, tJ7
Anierieans to fish oi. the Ip^oiks, II 1
— the |''reneh town of I'iaee.itl.i. in
— the whole i-laiul I'l did to I'lnnland,
1(1
— iniportnnpe of the eod-tl.-lierieM, Ha
— the jjri'at hanks, 11.)
— acioiml of till- n.iMJe of ri>hii.j:, 4 !;>
— fcn:> and storms. I Hi, 1 17
seal-ratehiui.', t 17
Ni'ttsiiaper" of leelaiid. '.18
Nitzht of a jH-lar winter, Kane's* dem-rip-
iioi. of. ri:>
Nikola jew sk. station of, Imill I'V tho
Hiissians, 'Jlfi
Noiha, f;old diirniuL'-* on the, 2.'il
Norfolk Hav, position and tur trade of,
:ni
North-eastern roi\te to Iialia and China,
iSeliaslian Cahot's idea of, 1178
— attempts to discover it, ;!78-!iHO
Noi'tii I'ule, till' first alliiiipt to sail
across the, IWH
— the )ilan tirst suj.'i;esteil hv 'riioriie,
— .*^eoresliy's near ajipronch to I hi', .'{91
— I'arry 's hoat and >-lid^o joni-ney lo-
Wilids the. Jdl
— Dr. Mayes's opinion a'i to the prae-
tiealiiiity of I'earliin^r the, arrosM
Ive.iiiedy Chaniirl. 1:17
— opinions of other scieiiliHc authori-
ties as to tli'j Ix'sf way to reach, t.'t?
IVADDODK, the Norweirian jdrate, his I Noi'th-west juissap' to India, attempts
Li discovery of Iceland. 7^5 to discover the. .'iS'.t, .'i'.MI
iNaiiiar, or boilin^jf mud springs of Ice- — MeClure's disi.'ovi ry of the. tl.'i
laud. (").'{ ' — eompuny of Canada, formation and
|N,ir!ior<)\i<i!i. Sir .folin, his chart of the trade of the. 1} It
Strait of Ma^'ellan. .>IH( • — its wars with the lludsin's l!ay Com-
iNu'whal. or sea-unicurn. domain of the, j I'.any, and final amal|.;air.atioii, lUo
hv sci\s,
41
rctic rcgi'iiif.J
e's cn
Ington
w, lii»
Luiii'il
42, 387
l-ii-; tusk, 42
■tireenland llshery of the, I")?
ll'iiTm, Castreii's visit to. 1H2
rtiromancy of the .Saniojedes. IH!)
I'l'tschinsk, treaty of, 21(1
I'i'iminals at the mines of, 221
¥■■•••>. Castren's visit to the Samojodo
lillilire of, ]77_
I'* Ht'oundlaud, discovered and coloni/.ed
'y (ireenlanders, 377
|-it-< desolate, appearanco, 430
its forests, marshes, and hiirreus,
440, 441
its lakes and ponds. 412
■it.s fur-hearing animals, 412
■if.s reindeer and wolves, 443
•!t> climate and inhabitants, 443
■its capital, St. John's. 443
■history of the island. 414
[■tak"n possession of by tho English,
444
I
Northiiniberlnnd Sound, temperalure of,
12
Nototheiiia, the, of the Antarctii' seas,
477
Norway, the lemming of the Dovrifjeld,
in, 2.'>
— an absolute monarchy established by
Harold Ilaarfatrer in. '■'>
— causes of the mild climate of tho
coast of, 100
— condition of the ."^oil, and of the cul-
tivators of it. 1 10, 11 2
— constitution of Norway, and educa-
tion of tho peo[>le. 111
— population, 1 11
— coast scenery, 112
— Drontheim and its indu.sfry, 113
— birds of the coast, 114
— theherringaiideodiisherics, lir)-117.
118
Novaya Zemlya, investigations of the
shores of, I II
640
INDEX.
NOV
Novaya Zemlya, circumnavigated by
Paehtussow, 141, 142
— meteorological observations of Zi-
wolka, 145
climate of Novaya Zemlya, 1 4G
— \'on Baer's scientific journey, 147
— — Bcientific rtsults of his journey,
149
vegebition, 149
solitude and silence, 151
rarity of insects, 151
lemmings and foxes, 161
birds, 151, 152
other animals, 152, 153
— wintering of the Dutch under Barentz
at, 385
Novgorod, the Great, subdued by the
Czar Ivan I., 204
NowodsikofF, Michael, his discoveries,
215
Nudibranchiata, enormous numbers of,
in the polar seas, 41
Nullipores on the coast of Greenland, 41
Num, or Jiliboambaertje, the Supremo
Being of the Samojodes, 188
OATH, a Samojede, 192
Obdorsk,Castren's visit to, 180, 181
— description of the town, 200, 201
— the fair at, 201
Obi river, barren grounds near the, 7
— its importance to tlio Ostjaks, 196
— Castren's journey to the, 181
— misery caused by the overflow of the,
181
— inhabitants of the banks of the, 182
Ochota river, the, 279
Ochotsk, sea of, reached by a party of
Cossacks, 209
— view of, 275
• — description of the town, 279
Olaf Truggcson, King of Norway, sends
a missionary to Iceland, 78
Olginsk, gold mine of, 2'iG
Olonez. number of bears killed for their
skins every year in, 229
Ommaney, Captain, his search for Frank-
lin, 4n
— his discovery of Franklin's first win-
ter quarters, 412
Onkilon, or sedentary Tchuktchi, 304,
305
— their mode of life, 305
Oraefa Jokull, views of, 50, 52
■ — height of, 61
— eruptions of, since the colonization
of Iceland, 81
Orange Island, visited by Barentz, 383
Ore. Sec Grampus
Osborne, Captain Sherard, his opinion
PAR
as ix) the method of reaching ths
North Pole, 437
Osprey, the, 121
Ostjaks, their fishing grounds on the
Obi, 182
— group of, 196
— their summer huts and mode of life,
197
— their poverty, 197
— their winter huts, 198
— their attachment to their ancient
customs, 198
— thi'ir clans, and princes, or chieftains,
199
— their excellence as archers, 199
— their personal appearance, and cus-
toms, 200
— annual tribute levied by Yermak,
the robber, on them, 207
— confirmed V)y the Czar in the pos-
session of their hinds, 212
Ostrich, Darwin's, of Patagoniii, 608
Ostrownoje, town and fair of, 299, ;i(ll
Otter, the sea, or kalan {I'jihijilm\
lutris), value of the fur of the, 226,
229
— description of the animal, 226. 227j
— chase of the, in Kamtschatka, 295
— otter hunting of the Aleiits, ;n2
Otter, the fish {Lutra Canadensis), 352,j
353
— fur of the, 353
Owl, great snowy, 16
— its favourite food, 26
— its winter in the highest latitudes, 26
Ox, the, in Iceland, 62
Oyster, most northerly limit wlier^
found, 115
PACHTIJSSOW, his circumnnvigatioi
of the southern island of NevayJ
Zemlya, 141, 142
— his s(!Cond voyage and death, 143
145
Pack-ice, 23
— its tendency to separate in ciilil
weather, 36
Paikoff, his discovery of the Fox Island
215
Parrots of Patagonia, 508
Parry, Lieut. W. E. (afterwards .Vdniir
Sir), his Arctic voyages, 392
— his second voyage, .397
— his third voyage, 399
abandonment of the ' Furv,' 39
— his boat and sledge journey lowal
the Pole, 401
— his sul)sequent career, 402
Parry, Mount, discovery of, 429
— Dr. Hayes's journey to, 436
J
, Is of Kiistc
i'll.ifion of N
INDEX.
641
ling the
J on tho
ie of life,
r anoiont
' chieftains,
e, and cus-
ly Yermak,
;07
in thepoB-
212
onia. 5(18
)f, '299, m
1 (Evhydna j
of the, 226, j
,al, 226. 227 j
jhatka. 295
eiits. ;^12
adinsis), 352,|
ftlatitiidos,2a
limit wlierej
kimnavigati'i!
Ind of Nov^yJ
Id di;ath, H^
Irate in ^'^^^
L Fox Island
tvards Admit
392
le ' I'wy.' 3f
liurney lowal
402
[of, 429
4'36
PAR
Parry Mountains, discovery of the, 482
riisina river, scanty population of the,
240
Patagoniii, Captain Fitzroy's surrey of,
600
— tho people of, 503, 608
— diffureuce of climate between tho
east and west, ,003
— aridity of the east of, 504, 505
— largo rivers of, 505
— animals of, 505
— fashions of tho Patagnnians, 509
— their religious ideas, oU9
— their superstitions and astronomical
knowledge, 510
— their division into tribes, 51 1
— their huts, 511
— their trading routes, 512
— their system of government, and
great cacique, 512
introduction of tiie horse, 513
their arms, amusements, and cha-
racter, 513, 514
I Paul, St., climate of tho island of, 309
ciiase of the sea-boar on the, 313
I Paul 'lie First, discovery of th(! Island
of, 480
[Pt'kan, or woodshock {Maries Canaden-
sis), fur of the, 352
iPenas, gulf of, glacier at tho, 470
|Ptnguin, the, 523
of the Antarctic seas, 471, 472
I- its food, 473
'enny, Master, his search for Franklin,
411, 412
jPeruvian current, influence of the, 1G9,
470
|?rtermann, Dr. Augustus, his view of
tlie route to tho Pole, 437
jPctrel, the giant {Procdiaria gigantca),
of the Antarctic seas, 470
jPetropaulowsk, view of the town of, 290
|- its population, 293
•unsuccessful attack of the English
and Freneli on, 293
|?-tsol)ora river, 143
|;:;ilip's Bay, St., 491
p.ip[is, Captain (afterwards Lord ^lul-
i grave), his vojago to discover tlie
north-west passage, 391
Ipit {Anthus jyratensiii), the, of Iceland,
liihina, Castren's residence and study
ht, 184
I'vor Island, discovery of, 416
['ivers of Iceland, 64
\sLm\, the elk of, 23
North, probable condition of tlio
lin.l (if any) at tlic, 1 1
\\m. Fedor, his discovery of the gold
Ills of Kastern Siberia, 231
ffulation of Norway, HI
REI
Potato, cultivation of, in Norway, 113
Pribilow Islands, climafo of, .308, 309
— sea-Iious, and guillemots of, 309
— chase of the sea-bear, 313
Prontschisdit.schew, his fruitles.s endea-
vours to double the capes of Taiunir-
land, 213
— death of him and his wife, 213
Prussia, East, \\w elk of, 23
Ptarmigan (Lai/opus (i//)i('i), its resi-
dence in tho liigiiest latitudes in win-
ter. 26
— ofSpitzbergen, 129, 139
— its summer visits to Taimurland, 251
— in tho Tundra in summer, 5
Pteropods, food for the Greenland whale,
42
Putfins of Lovunnen island, 114
— mode of catching them, 114
Punta Arenas, col(myof Germans at, 501
Pustosersk, vi.sit of Ca.stren to, 177, 179
Pym, Lieut., liis sicdgo journey of search
for Franklin, 415
T>ACOON (Proci/on Inior), 351, 438
J-t — value and trade in the skins of
the, 351
Kae, Dr., his search for Sir John
Kidiard.son, 410
— his discoveries in tho Arctic seas,
410, 411
— his discovery of the fate of Franklin
and his crew, 418, 419
Raipass, copper mines at, 119
Ranunculus, snow {Ii'anuncu/usniralis),
of Novaya Zemlya, 149
Rat, musk. Sec Musquash.
Ravens of Iceland, 07
— ravens in tho Scandinavian mytho-
logy, 67, 68
— superstitions of tho Icelanders re-
specting the, 68
Razor-bill, its nests on tho most
northern rocks. 19
Red Knite Indians, their hunting
grounds, 364
Red-pole, the, of Spitzhorpon, 129
Red Rivercolony, destruction of tho, 345
Reil sharks of Iceland, 64
Reindeer, its summer ami winter (|iiar-
ters in the Arctic regions, o, 6
— foo<l found by the. in Spit/.bergen, 10,
11
— reindeer travelling in Lapland, 17
— its importance to man in tho northern
regions, 17
— its formation and adaptation to tho
circumstances in wliich it is placed,
18
— clattering sound of his feet, 18
— its antlers, 18
542
INDEX.
RE I
Reindeer, its young, 18
— its milk, 19
— its food and olfiictory powers, 19
— the caribou of North America, 19
■ — its geographical range in the Old and
Now Worhl, 19
— its love of a cold climate, 20
— its services to niiin, 20, 21
— its enemies, and disorders to which
it is liable, 22
— a nuisance in Ici'land, G4
— of Spitzljergen, 129
— the reindeer pens of the Lapps, 160
— milking the reindeer, 161
— the reindeer sledges of the Lapps, 1 62
— attempt made to acclimatise the rein-
deer in Scotland, 163
— ravages of wolves in herds of rein-
deer, 166
— rich Lapp owners of herds, 1G6
— Lapp mode of killing the reindeer,
167
— its two annual migrations, 266
— reindeer hunts of the Jukaliires of
theAniuj, 266, 267
— reindeer races of the Tchuktchi, 303
— reindeer hunting of the Esquimaux,
324, 325
— tlio Kutehin Indian mode of pound-
ing tlie reindeer, 374
— chase of the reindeer in Greenland,
459
Rensselaer Bay, temperature of, in mid-
winter, 6
— Kane's winters at, 424, 430
Resanow. .Takin, liis gold fields, 231
Reykjahlid, boiling mud cauldrons of, o3
Reykjavik, mean annual temperature of,
61
— the present capital of Iceland, 7o
— account of, 86, 87
— the annual fair of, 87
— salary of the bishop of, 93
— schools and library of, 95, 97
— the Icelandic Literary Society, 98
Rhinoceros remains found on the coast
of Northern Siberia, 217
Richardson, Dr. (afterwards Sir John),
his Arctic land voyages, 395, 390
— dreadful sufferings of the party, 395,
396
— his search for Sir .John Pranklin, 410
Rivers discharging their waters into the
Polar ocean, 3
— of Iceland, 59
Rockv Mountains, the wild sheep of
the, 24
— view of tlie, at tlio bend of tlio Mac-
kenzie river. 361
Roebuck, near Lake IJaikal, 21
Ronpials, or tin-whales, habitat and
size of the, 42
SAL
Rorquals, their food, 42
Rosmysslow, his investigations of the
shores of Novaya Zemlya, 141
Ross Capt. (i.fterwards Sir John), Arctic
voyages, 392
— his second journey, 4<)2
Ids five years in the Arctic Ocean,
402-407
his return home and honours, 403
Ross, Sir James, his Arctic voyages, lo.l
— his search for Franklin, 411
— his discoveries in the Antarctic
Ocean, 481
— collision between his ships, tho
' Erebus ' and ' Terror,' 486, 487
— his danger between two icebergs, 188
Rum, effects of, on an Iceland clergy-
man, 89
Rupert's Land, held by tho Hudson's j
Bay Company, 3 16
Russia, character of the conifers of, 8
— the elk of tho woods of the northern |
parts of, 23
— conquest f)f, by the Tartars iniderj
Baaty Khan, 203
— liberated from the Tartar yoke byj
Ivan I., 203
— advances of, in Siberia, 209
— annexes the country of the Annu', 210j
— condition of tho natives under thai
yoke of, 211
— exiles from Russia to 8ili-;rw,|
218-221
— Talne of tho skins annually iniportei
by Russia, 228, 229
— their life and dwellings in Nis^lind
Kolymsk, 264
— first treaty of commerce belwoctj
England and. 379
Russia Company, patent granted to il:
to fish off Greenland, 131
Russian Fur Company, account of tlid
and its trade, 310. 311
SABINE, Mount, discovery of, 481
Sable, tho, 202
■ — value of the. to the Cofsa^k coq
((Uerors of Siberia, 209
— importance and beauty of the fiirf
the, 224
— hunting, 225
Salirina Land, discovery of, 480
Sagamen, or historians, of Icelaml. 'i
Sajan Mountains, Castren's journey o^
the, 185
Salmon, Alpine (Sahio nfpii'iif), il
n 1 on se numbers of, in Novaya Zemll
163
Salmon, shoals of, in the rivers of I
Arctic regions, 5
— abundance of, in Iceland, 71
INDEX.
^43
ins of the
141
)hn), Arctic
rctic Ocoan,
■vonoiUK, 403
411
10 Antarctic
r,' 4S(>, 4H7
icoberg^, ISS
eliind clergy-
tho Hudson's I
onii'ers of, 8
,f the northern |
Tartars
under I
Cartar voice hyj
,f the Amur. 2 01
Xives undtT tli«|
la
to B'a>-;riii,l
mually impose
lUngs in >'^l>nfl
amerce
liL'lweoq
|t granted to iV.<
131 , , ,
, account ct tli^
111
jovery of, -ISl
Ly of tho
fur
ly of. -i^" ,
of Iceland
ten's journcyo'
.Novayii/erol:
the rivers of
tland, "I
SAL
Salmon of the Sea of Ochotsk, 279
• — abundanee of, in Kamtschatka, 291
Samojedes, European, Castren's journey
among the, ITfy
— their drunkenness, 176
— their inipatienco of confinement,
176-178
— their barbarism, 187
— their Supreme Being, Nam, or Jili-
beambaertje, 188
— their recourse to incantations, 1 88
— their idols, 188, 189
— their reverence paid to tho dead, 191
— their mode of taking an oath, 192
— their personal appearance and habits,
192, 193
— their wealth in reindeer, 194
— their entire number in Europe and
Asia, 194
— their traditions of ancient heroes,
194, 195
— confirmed by tho Czar in their pos-
sessions. 212
— tho 8u*\qjedecomp,T,nionsof Von ^[id-
dendorff on his journey, 242, 247
Siimund Erode, his Icelandic works, 79
Sand-bee {Aiulroia) of Novaya Zeinlva,
1")1
Sand-reed bread used in Iceland, G2
Sarndento, Pedro, his voyage, 499
Sarytchew, voyage of, on the coast of
Siljcria, 210
Smvina river, 142
•Saxit'ragas, the, of tho treeless zone, 7
Soalds, or bards, of Iceland, 79
Standi navia,character of the Con iferje()f,8
Scluilaurow, liis journeys on tho coast of
■Siberia, 214
Jeharostin, his residence at Spitzbergen,
136
Sclulagskoi, Capo, rounded by Count
Michael Stadnchin, 210
-reached by Sclialaurow, 214
Jooresby, Dr, his visit to Spitzbergen,
123, 124
t'aptain, his near approach to the
Xurtii Pole, 391
I- his voyage to Greenlaml, 4") I, 4j')
O'jtcr, ur black diver, tlio, 280
ntiii, Nova, disci)vcred and colonized
ly Greenlandors, 377
irvy in Spitzbergen, 133-13.')
[Hvscrvative against, 133, 13.')
Lapp, mode of provonliiig t!i(>, l{i9
. inrtuence of the, on the .severity of
%• Arctic winter, 1 1
Antarctic, compared with tlu- Arctic
reiiions, 46v)
'.lisence of vegetation in the, 465
causes of tho inferiority of the Ant-
sMie climate, 40.')- 167
muiensity of the icebergs of the, 467
SHE
Sea, Antarctic, tho Peruvian current, 466
— birds of tho Antarctic coasts, 470
— Antarctic cetaceans, 473-477
— Austral fi.shes, 477
— Antarctic voyages of discovery, 479
— Antarctic storms and pack-ice, 48.')
Seas, Arctic, dangers peculiar to the, 29
— floating masses of ice, 29, 30
— ice-blink, 3i)
— summer fogs, 36
— clearness of the atmosphere and ap-
parent nearness of objects, 36
— phenomena of rettection and refrac-
tion of the atmosphere, 37
— causes which prevent tho accumida-
tion of polar ice, 37, 38
— the animals of the Arctic seas, 26, 40
— - Russian discoveries off tho Siberian
Coast, 2 1 ") cf gtq.
— Von ^Nliddendorff-s journey down tho
Taimur river to the polar soa,
243, 244
— Wrangell's nightson thepolarsea, 269
— his observations on the polar soa, 270
— INIaliuschkin's sledge journey, 272
— voyages of tho English and iJutch,
377 cf Krq.
Sea-bear of Behring soa. 44
Sea-eagles of tho coast of Norway, 114
Sea-elephaut of the Antarctic Ocean,
47G, 489
Sea-gulls of the coast of Norway, 114
Seals, the, of the polar seas, 44
— their uses to man, 44
— seal fishing at Spitzbergen, 136
— of Novaya Zomlya. l.")3
— Seal hunts of the Hstpiimaux, 326
. — • seal c.itcliing at Xewfonndiand, 4 17
— seal-hunting on the coasts of CJreen-
land, 45G
— tho Arctic seals, 477
Sea-lion of Behring sea, 44
— of tho Pribilow islands. 309
Sea-otter, value of the skin and former
numbers of tho, 214,21.")
Sodsxer river, romantic scenery of the,
493
.■^eniplo. riiiveriior, murder of. 34.5
Sei'tulariaiis on tln'cuasis ot (iroenlaiiil,
41
Service-trees in the Aretic i-egions, 8
Shark, Ijasking (Ui tho northern coasts
of Iceland, 70
— its uses to the islanders. 70, 71
— oil m.'innfactured from its liver, 71
— the northern (Siy/nnuts microccjiha-
Ins), abundance of, otf Spitzbergen,
130
— fishery of, on the coast of Greenland,
Sheep, wild {Oi'Unioiifana),o{t\\(i Rocky
Mountains, description of the, 24
644
INDEX.
8HB
Slipop, Wilfl, tho, of Iceland, and their
enemies, 62, 63
mode of slipop-shoaring, 63
Shetland Islands, New, account of tlie,
467, 468
Shrimps offSpitzbergon, 125
Siberia, extent of tho tn'olctts zone of, 8
— character of the Coniferae of, 8
— tho elk of, 23
— the rocilaick and red deer of, 24
— the argaii, or wild shucp of, 24
— tho white dolphin in tlie rivers of,
43
— conquest of, by tho Cossficks for the
Kussians, 205-207
— final conquest of, by the Russians,
and foundation of Tobolsk, 209 ct
seq.
— condition of the natives of Siberia,
under the dominion of Eussia, 211,
212
— scientific expeditions sent to Siberia,
213 et 8€q.
— its past ages, 217
— its extent and capabilities, 218
- tho exiles sent there, 218, 219
their condition there, 221
— condition of the West Siberian pea-
sants, 222
— resources of the country, 223
— extremes of heat and culd, 223
— fur-bearing animals, 224
— the gold fields of Eastern Siberia,
and the miners, 230-233
value of tlie produce of sonic of
the mines, 236
entire value of the produce of gold
in 1856 and 1800, 237
luxury and extravagance caused
by tlio wealthy gold specula-
tors, 237. 238
the gold of tho Ural, 238, 239
Siberia, New, loiiimings of, 11
— discovery of the islands of, 215, 216
— fossil ivory of, 216
Sibir, the capital of the Tartars in Si-
beria, 204
— taken by Yermak, the robber, for tho
Czar, 207
Simpson, Mr. Thomas, his Arctic land
voyage, 409
— his discoveries, 409, 410
— assassinated, 410
Sirowatsky, his discovery of the Archi-
pelago of New Siberia, 217
Skalholt, the ancient capital of Iceland,
account of, 85, 86
— its present condition, 86
■ — its meadow lands and scenery, 86
Skaptar jfikull, 51
— the great eruption of, in 1783, 81
Skates of Lapjis, 102
SPI
Skeidara, Mr. Holland's journey across
the, 100, 101
Skjalfaiidatljot river, in Iceland, 59
Skogslappar, or Forest Lapps, account
of tho, 169
Sledges of the Lapps, 162
— tlie sacred sledge, Ilahengau, of tho
Samojedes, 188
— group of liussian, 240
Smith's Sound, temperature of, 12
— icebergs formed in, 31
— discovery of the entrance to, 390, 424
' Smoke, valley of,' in Iceland, 53
Snorri Sturleson, the Herodotus of the
North, account of him and his 'Heini-
kringla,' 79, 80
Snow-buntings of the 'barren grounds,' 5
Snow, its protection of tho vegetation of
the Arctic regions,
— warmth, caused by, 6
— no laud yot found covered to the
waters edge with eternal snow, 10
— amount of tho fall of, inT.iimurlaiid,
249
— probable diminution of the fall of,
advancing towards the pole, 24'J
— its protection against cold, 249, 250
Socialism among the Dog Ilib Indians,
367
Solfataras of Iceland and Sicily com-
pared, 71, 72
Solovetskoi, convent of, 174
— islands of, 175
Sorcery of the Laplanders, 157
— of the Samojedes, 189
Souslik, the, 186
Spain, salted cod-fish imported into. 12rt
Spasy, produce of the gold mine of, 'I'ol
Sperm whale, the, 478
Spirits, invisible, of the Samojedes, 189
Spitzbergcn, fiowers of, 6
— vast fields of ice in the plateau of, Irt
— food of the reindeer of, 10, 1 1
— proofs of a former milder climate in.Uj
— birds of, 27
— apparent, nearness of objects at, i
clear weather, 36
— the walrus of the coast of, 40
— description of tho archipelago of, 122,
123
— the west coast, 123
— Scoresby's ascent of a mountain, tm
excursion along the coast, I'l'A, 12'
— Magdalena bay, 125-127
— ice cliffs and avalanches of ice, 12'
— Scientific exploring expeditions ■•I'l
to, 127
— flora ami fauna of, 128, 129
— fisheries of, 130
— coal and drit'lwood of, 130
— histoi'v of. 131
— attempts made to colonize it, 132. 1
iilphur of
~ eoinpjiiv:
"iiinicr, tl,
- ''"i-'S of, ,
- I" Tainui
■'III. the m
. '"'^'s, ;j3,
'"'I'-l't, niJIiri
""-■■It Past
-'•'-hellir.c
'''■■-eripfi.jn
[r y.K-w of rJi
'^. the, ol
,■;; Value of if
'"'ituifiOSH, Q,
i'"i-noss, ci
h'lsof Ji,,Ja
IXDIiX.
.545
fney
across
p8, accoiint
igau, of tlio
■ of, 12
010,390,424
,nd, O'i
jiloUis of the
pn grounclw," o
) vegetation of
:,vercd to tlie
orniil snow. 10
inTahuurUiul,
of the fall "f.
th.poU'.'il'J
coUl, 249, 2o0
,g lUb ludums,
aid Sicily cora-
174
Irs, 157
r
[ported into. 12'lj
|,Ul mine of, '.!•'<'
1 Samojedfs, 1S9|
lie plateau uf, I'i
tf, 10, 11 I
[lev climate in,U|
If objects at, m
fciipelago «.t, I-
L mountain, ftn
coast, 123, I'i
llusof ICC, 1^'
expedition:* **•''
^8, 129
i;5<t
luizcit.13-.'
SIT
8pitzbcrnrcii, Russian liuntors' modo of
wiiifprin;: at, ili.")
— walrus and seal fishing at, 13G
— discovery of. 3St
Spdut, the, of Xcwfoundhuid, 43'J
Sprinirs. hot, of leeknd, o8
— llio (joybcr, r)t
— the Slrokkr, '>6
Spruce h'ir of the Hudson's Buy terri-
tory, 8
Si|nirrel. value of llie fur <if the. 22S
Stadolski Ishmd, visit of Paehtus.sow
Id, 112
.'^laducliin, (.'ount Miehaol, his fnunda-
tioii of the town of Nishnei-Kolynisk,
210
— navigates the .sea eastward of Capo
Seliclauskoi, 210
.^tawiueu river, 1 l.'i
Stcll.M-, <;. \V.. notice of liim. 281
— hissei<'ntiliejouriieytoKanitschatka,
282
— ill-treated by Eehring. 284
— his sutleriuLrson JJchriufr, Island. 2SG
— death of liiseonimandfr, Hehriuir, 28"
-- his return to Kamtsehatk.-i, 288
— liersecuted by tho Siberian autho-
rities, 289
— his death. 289
Stiiektish of b'el.uid. "0
Sioniis on tlu' White Sea, 174
^ of tlie Tundras, 178, 179
of the Arctic /.one, 219
I •If Newfoundhnid, 447
— in tlie Antarctic ocean, 48.')
the williwaws, or hurricane squalls,
of tlie Straits of Maitellan, 190
|SiiMrronofl-', foinidalion of tlie Kussiau
liiMiily uf, 204, 20.J
1^-ii'okkr, description of the, oo
ti'ingbow Indians of the Kooky Jloun-
tnins, the, lUil
|>ukkerto]ipen. seen by Davis, 381
>iil|iliur of Iceliuid, 71
- compared with that of Sicily, 71. 72
hininier, the perpetual daylight uf, .')(J
I— joiis of, 36
1- in Tainiurland, 218
Yin. tilt! inidnitrht, effect of, on ico-
r-s, 33, 34 ''
I'^'Jiisot, niaij:ni(lcenee of a. I.i
piviit, Tastren's visit to, 181. 182
■*ii'ts-hellir, or eaves of .Surtur, view and
(!escri[iti(m of, .""jS
view of tlio lava-field of, 8.5
|i>lik, the, of Siberia, 228
valua of its fur, 228
t'ltuiiioss. Cape, fossil ivory at, 21.5
I-atiii-noss, doubled by the Russians,
■m
I'liw of Icehnul, Gl, G7
'IKM
TARIX, the iniat,dnary Cape, of the
Dutch navigators, 383, 384
Tadibes, or sorcerers, of the S.iniojedes,
189
— their dress and incantations, 189
Tagilsk, Nisline, the gold-producing
town of, 238
Taiga, melancholy eharactor of tho, 230
— iiold (icids of 'lh(>, 231
Taininr Lake, visiua by Lieut. Laptcw,
213
— sl(n'in on the, 2lo
'J'aiiiiur river, visited bv Lieut. Laptew,
213
— \'on I\ridilendorff's journey to tlio,
212-21.-)
T;iiiiinrland, endeavours of I'rontscliis-
elilschew to double the capes of, 213
.Middendortfs atlventures in, 240
— his observations on the cliniato and
natural jiroduetions uf, 248
— amount of the fall of snow in, 249
Tana river, discovery of tlu:, by .lelissei
Ihisa. 209
Tarn, 3Iount, Darwin's ascent of, 491
Tartars, their subjection of tho Russians,
203
— driven out l)y Ivan I., 203
— pi'rniaiumtly overthrown by Ivan II.,
204
Tattooing, Creo Indian modo of, 3.')9
Tehendoma, the, visited by .lolissei
Ihisa, 209
Tclmktchi, barren grounds in the land
of the, 7
— the hind of the, 298
— tents of the, 298
— their short suminer, 298
— their inde|)cndeiice and commercial
enterprise, 299
-- IMatinsclikiir.s visit tosomeTchuktchi
ladies, 302
— amusements of the people, 303
— the wandering and sedentary Tehuk-
tchi, 30 I, 30.)
— their mode of life, 304, 30.»
— population of the land of tho
Tchiiklchi. 30.')
Tea-parlies at Nishue Kolynisk, 2G7,2G8
T( inprrature of Reus-claer IJay iu miil-
wi liter,
— ellect of the sea on tho tomperature
of the Arctic regions, 11
— influence of tho winds, 11
— the lowest teniperalures over felt by
man. 12
— how man is enabled to boar oxtra-
ordinai-y low temperatures, 13
— former milder temperature of the
Arctic regions, 13
— probable causes of tho changes iu tin?
Arctic climate. \'i
N N
5i(i
IXDKX.
TEM
Ictiliind
at diflRron^.
Tompcrature of
plm'i'H. (iO
Toiin.y.son'b Monuiiipiit, Dr. Kane's de-
scriijlioii of, 427
Ti-rrur. Mount, 40'), 483
Torski Lapps, Castivii'M attempted jour-
ney to the, 171, n^i
Thangbraud. Cliristiau missionary to
leeland. 78
Tiiingvalla, plain of, ')7
— site of till' aneiont Icelandic Althing
at. 7(i, 77
Thin!j;valia Lake, in leeland, Gt), 77
Tiiiorsa river, in lecIand, o9
Thorlakson, Jon, tlie poet of Iceland,
account of him and his works, 94
Thorne, llohert, liis sufiirestion for sail-
infi across tlio North I'olf, ;!88
Thorwald the Traveller, the first Chris-
tian Icelander, his career, 77, 78
Tides, effect of the, in preventing the
accumulation of polar ico, !J8
Tinne Indians, defeated by theCreos, 3.5G
— their retaliation, 3o7
— their wars with the Blaekfect, 357
— their wigwams, or touts, 3 GO
— various tribes of the Tinne, and
their range, 364
— their appearance, manners, and cus-
toms, 365-3G8
■— improvements in their condition, 3G8,
369
— their wives and children, 369
— their cruelty to the aged, 369
Tjumen, the first settlement of Ilussians
' in Siberia, 209
— Steller's grave at, 289
Tobacco, fondness of the Lapps for, 168
170
— eagerness of the wild tribes of the
Nortli for, 300
Tobolsk, view of, 203
— battle of, 207
• — foundation of the city, 209
— condition of the southern part of. 222
Tolstoi Ness. Oastren's visit to, 181
Tolstych, Adrian, his discoveries, 215
Tomsk, criminals of, 222
Tornea, reindeer gloves of, 21
— river, 171
Torsteinson Jon, the martyr of the
AVestmann Islands, 108
Train-oil of Tromso, 118
Transbaikalia, Castren's visit to, 186
Travelling in Iceland, 99
Treeless zone of Europe, Asia, and
America, 4-8
Treurenberg bay, doer of, 129
Triiiladyngja, eruptions of, since the
colonization of Iceland, 81
Tromso, cod fishery and cod-liver oil of.
118
VEO
Tromso, description of the town and is-
land, 118
T.schirigow, his voyages, 215
Tueiittico {C/rno/iii/s M(iijellanica), the,
of I'atagonia, 506
Tuiidri, or barren grounds of the Arctic
regions, 4, 5
— of the Eur()|iean .Samqjedes, 175
■ — storms of the Tundriis, 178
Tuug-ower, (jr hot spring at Reikhoh,
in Icehind, 53
Tungusi, tile, their relationship to tiic
JIandsciiu, 275
— their eoiujuei^ls, and final subjugation
by the Russians, 275, 276
— their iiitellc'etn;il (Icvelopmcnt, 27'i
— tiieir tribes and populalioii, 276
— their wrct(_'lnMliiess, 276
— their manners and customs, 277, 278
TuiiLTUska river, gold fields of tlie
Upper, 231
Turkey-buzzard, the, of Patagonia, 507
Turuchansk, Castren's visits to, 183. IS.')
Tyndall glacier, enormous size of, 32
UFFLIOT the Wise, his first code of
laws in Iceland, 76
Unalaschka, climate of, 307, 308
— Vegetation of, 308
— people of, 306, 312
Uni<jn, Cape, Dr. Hayes's sledge voyage
to, 436
United I'^tates, right of, to fish on tin'
banks (jf Newfoundlan<l, 444
Ural Mountains, Castren's passage ef
the, 181
— first discovery of gold in the, 2.SS
— (|uantity of gold found in the, 238. 'i.'W
Ustsylmsk, Castren's visit to, and ili-
treatment at, 179, 180
Utzjoki, the pastor of, 173
Uusa river, Castren's journey up the, IK'i
VAAGE, cod-fishery of, 115
— ancient importance of, 116
Vaager Kallen, in the Lofoten Islaml-.
view of, 109
Vancouver's Island, placed nnder tli'
management of flio Ihnlson's I'liVj
Company, 346
Vapour bat^hs of the Cree Indians,360,.3iJl ]
Viiro, the, of Norway, 1 14
Vegetation, protection afforded by snufll
to. 6
— distinctive characters of the Arcti^
forests, 8. 9
— of the ' barren grounds,' 4, 7
— length of time necessary for the forj
mat ion of even small steins
frees in tiie Arctic regions, 9
iNi)i<:x.
547
c> town
and if
ijritivika), l"f,
Is of the Areli.'
jwles, 175
is, 17s
licr lit Ro'khMli,
itionship to t!i'
final su1',i»S:^»'"»
•iTA, 276
vclopnifiit. '2i''
lulalioii, •i7(')
2 7'.'
.ustnms, 2<7, .i""
A fluids of til'-.
if Piitas^oniii, iV>7
,v\s-.tsto,183.1H--.
nuus size of, 32
e, liis first code ot
.,70
of, 307, 308
■y
cs's sledge voyage
,f_ to fi'^h 0" '^
dla'nd, 44-i
iistrou's passage
ot
,ldintho,23S
,;mdinthc,23S2.;.
s visit to, and m-
180
.journey xiptU'-,l»^
ryof, ll''>
nortanceof, 110
'hn Lofoten Islana^.
placed under
l^;,y]
rec
Indians,36n,3iilB-
llt
hou
afforded by ^""^
Jacters
of tlic Arcti^
kron
|vcn
U'e
nds.M, 7 .
tlie wfi
small stems
i'e:^sary
tic regions'
VKO
Vegetation, harmlfss character of tlio
Arctic plants, 9
— no land yet discovered in which
ve;^otation is entirely subdued by
winter, 10
— former vegetation of the northern
reftions of the jrlobe, 1,3
— of Spitzbergon, 128
— of Novaya /emlya, 149
— of Taiinurlaiiil, 2.')()
— of Kamtsehatka, 2!)(). 291
- uf the JJay of Awats-ha, 293
— of the rribilow Islands, 309
— ■ of Newfoundland, HO
— uf Greenland, l;')9
— absence of, in the Antarctic regions,
4 (■),')
— - of I'urt Famine, 493
Vevehnei Ostrog, in Kamtschatka, built,
211
Verazzani, his voyages, 378
Vestfjord, cod-fishery of the, 115
Victoria Land, tliscovery of 481
Videy, eider ducks of, 6 1, Co
I'iirr, eider ducks of, Go
- Mr. Shepherd's visit to, fio, 66
Vikings, their courage and discoveries, 73
Virgins, Cape, 491
Vogelsang, deer of, 129
Volcanic eruptions in Iceland since its
colonization, 81
Volcanoes giving birth to Iceland, 50
those now fxisting there, .'jl
the Esk, on Jan Meven, 139
of Kamtschatka, 292, 293
— eruption of Mount Erebus, 482
h'ole, iield (Arvivoht (economiis), indi-
gi'uous to Iceland, 62
IVuvMgeur, the, of North America, 339
I— his life and character, 340, 341
ilrus, or morse {Trickcchnsrosmarus),
Inscription of the, 44. 4')
its affectionate temper, 45
its parental love, 45
its chief resorts and food, 46
walrus fishing at Siiitzbergen, 136
hunted on ]5iar Island, 137
of Novaya Zemlya, 152
walrus-hunting on the coast ol Al-
jaska, 315
pieces of walrus-skin a medium of
exchange, 316
■ Esquimaux mode of hunting it, 329
iishington Land, discovery of, 429
■ l)r. Hayes's journey to, 436
iissiljew, his visit to the Lena, 209
"aygatz, island of, the sacred island of
the Samojedes, 188
''UM'l, the Siberian f r/i'cT/'« Slbcrica),
ilie fur of. 22G
Ull,
Weddell, Captain, his Antarctic voyages,
480
Weldeii, his visit to Hear Island, 1.37
Wellington Channel, temperature of, 12
— iliseovery of, :59.3
Wenj'amin, tho Archimandrite. 174
Western, Thouias, iinachus Christianity
to the Lapps. 155
Wotniann jslaiuls, description of the,
10.3
— ditlieulty of acctss of the. 103, 104
— how they becainr coloiiizod, 1(>4
— Ileimaey, or Home Island, 105
— f lod and tr.ide of the peojile, 106
— population and mortalitv of the ehil-
(Iron. 1(»(). 107
— their sufllrings from pirates, 107, 108
AVovmouth, his voyage to Hudson's U.av,
387
Whale, the Greenland (Bahpiia mijsti-
cifi(s), or smoothback, 41, 42
— otl' Novay.i /emlya, 153
Whale, the white, or beluga, 42
AVIijile, the ' ca'ing,' 43
AVhale, a stranded, at Spitzbergen, 125
Whale, the finback. 39, 42
— of Sfiitzbergcn, 130
— otf Novaya Zendya. 153
Whale, smooth-backed, of the Antarctic
seas, 473
Whale, sperm, of the Antarctic ocean,
475
Whalers, their dangers, in the Arctic
seas, 31
— depressing effect of tin; summer fogs,
36
- — among icebergs, 40
— their operations in the polar seas, 41
— whale-chases of the Aleuts, 311
— whale-hunts of the l']s(|uiniaux, 325
— abundance of whales in the Ant-
arctic seas. 473
— battle bi tween a whale and a gram-
pus. 175
Whale sound, enormous glaciers of, 32
White-fish, or Coregonus, of North
Anu;rica. 347
White .Sea, C.istren's journey to the, 174
— Chanct llor's discovery of the passage
from iMigland to the. 204
— an English expedition in the, 379
Wigwams of the Cree Indians. 356, 3()0
Wilkes. Captiiin, his discoveries in the
Antarctic Ocean, 480
Wilkes's Land, discovery of, 481
Williwaws of the Straits of Magellan,
196
AVillonghby, Sir Hugh, his vovage and
deatli, 378, 379
Willow, polar (Safixjwlitris), of Novaya
Zemlya, 149
— dwarf, of the treeless zone, 7
i
I
>48
INDKX.
=
wir,
Willow, dwarf, on the shores of the rivers
and hikes, 8
Wind Hole Strait of the Dutch naviga-
tors, 383, 381
Winds, eiftets of tlie cold sea winds on
vegetation, 7
— influence of the winds on an Arctic
climate, 11
Winter Harbour, Parry's winter in, 393
Wmferia uromatica, the, 41)3
AVitclicraft and witches of the Lapland-
ers, 167
AVolf, its attack of tlic reindeer, 21
— Lapp mode of hunting the, 166
— in Newfoundland, 413
Wolverine. See Glutton.
— fur of the, Sfll
Wood, length of time necessary for tlie
formation of, in tlie Arctic regions, 9
Wrangell, Lieut, von, his services as an
Arctic explorer, 259, 260
— his journey to the shores of the polar
sea, 260
— his winters at Kolymsk, 268
— his night on tlie polar sea, 269
ZIW
Wrangell, Lieut, von. his danger, and
return to St, Peterslnirg, 273, 271
Wrestling for a wife among the TiuiK^
Indians, 369
— and among the Kutohin Indians,
372, 373
TERMAK Timodajeff, the Cossaok
robber, 20o
— his conquest of Siberia and dcutli,
207, 208
— his monument in Tobolsk, 208
York roads, beauty of, 495
ZIOILYA, Novava, vast ice-ficMs of,
10
— mean temperature of, in summer imj
winter, 11
— the narwiial of tlie seas of, 42
— tiie walruses of the eoasts of, Hi
Zinzendorf, Count, his interest in (jivon-
land, 4o3
Ziwoika, the Russian steersman, his
voyages, 144, 1 15
— l)is meteorological observations, 145
tONDOX; I'RISTED BV
8POTTI3WOODK AND CO., NliW-STKKF.T SQl'Aua
AND PAlll.lAJlli.Nl' blKKliT
is (lanpffr, ami
rg, 273, 274
(jiig the Tiling
tchin Indiuii.s,
; the Cossack
ria and death,
iol.sk, 2U8
st ice-fields of,
in summer mid
as of, 42
lasts of, 40
erest in CiriHii-
stecrsmun, his
servations, 145